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HARVARD  COLLEGE 
LIBRARY 


FROM  THE  FUND  OF 

CHARLES  MINOT 

CLASS  OF  1828 


I^tI 


\ 


\ 


\ 


\ 


SPAIN 


AND 


PORTUGAL 


Money  Table 

(comp.  pp.  xi,  xii). 

Approximate  Eqoiy&lents. 


American 
Koney. 

English  Koney. 

Spanish  1 
Pesetas 

Koney. 

Portuguese 
Koney. 

Doll. 

Cts. 

L. 

8. 

D. 

(Francs) 

Cent. 

Milreis       BeU 

_ 

20 

931& 

1 

_ 

. 

182 



25 



"l 

1 

25 

— 

225 



40 



1 

7~5 

2 

__ 

— . 

264 



60 

__ 

2 

4«5 

3 

— 

— 

546 

— 

80 

— 

3 

22» 

4 

— 

— 

728 





4 



5 





910 

101|2 

— 

4 

5 

5 

49 

— 

20 

— 

4 

9*5 

6 

— 

092 

40 



5 

71  5 

7 

— 

274 

60 

— 

6 

4^|5 

8 

— 

466 

1 

80 



7 

22,6 

9 



638 

2 



8 

10 



830 

2 

20 

— 

8 

9^5 

11 

— 

2 

002 

2 

40 

— 

9 

71  5 

12 

— 

2 

184 

2 

60 

— 

10 

4*5 

13 

— 

2 

366 

2 

80 



11 

221» 

14 



2 

548 

3 



12 

15 



2 

730 

3 

S 



12 

gTft 

16 



2 

912 

3 

40 



13 

71ft 

17 



3 

094 

3 

60 

— 

14 

44. 

18 

— 

3 

276 

3 

80 



15 

22|5 

19 



3 

458 

4 





16 

20 



3 

640 

5 



1 



25 



4 

500 

10 

__ 

2 





50 



9 

100 

20 

— 

4 

— 

— 

100 

— 

18 

•    200 

The  value  of  Spani3H  Money  is  nominally  the  same  as  that  of  France, 
but  in  1898  the  rate  of  exchange  made  it  nearly  25  per  cent  lower  (ir^^ 
33 'pesetas;  100  fr.  =  133  p.  25  c.)<     The  exchange  is  also  considera"" 
against  Pobtdqdbsb  Money  (ll.  =  6  milreis  15  rs.  \  100  fr.  =  24  milr.  93  rs 


Eailway  Time  in  Spain  is  25  min.  behind  that  of  Paris  and  I1/4  hr. 
behind  that  of  Central  Europe;  Portuguese  !time  is  22  min.  behind  that 
of  Spain. 


7 


SPAIN 


AND 


]   PORTUGAL 


HANDBOOK  FOR  TRAVELLERS 

BY 

EARL  BAEDEKEB 


WITH  6  KAP8  AND  46  PLANS 


LEIP8IC :  KARL  BAJEpEKER.  PUBLISHER 

1898 

All  rights  reserved 


^ 


Ji/U  ^ixrC    Zu..  r^yCU  ■ 


f 


*Go,  little  book,  God  send  thee  good  passage, 
And  specially  let  this  be  thy  prayere : 
Unto  them  all  that  thee  will  read  or  hear, 
Where  thou  art  wrong,  after  their  help  to  call 
Thee  to  correct  in  any  part  or  all.* 


?>' 


PBEFACE. 


The  chief  object  of  the  Handbook  for  Spain  and  Portugal 
is  to  supply  the  traveller  with  such  information  as  will  render 
him  as  nearly  as  possible  independent  of  hotel-keepers,  com- 
missionnaires,  and  guides,  and  thus  enable  him  the  more 
thoroughly  to  enjoy  and  appreciate  the  objects  of  interest  he 
meets  with  on  his  tour. 

The  Handbook  is  based  mainly  upon  the  personal  observa- 
tion of  the  Editor  and  his  Associates,  who  have  repeatedly 
explored  the  country  to  obtain  the  latest  possible  informa- 
tion. As,  however,  changes  are  constantly  taking  place,  the 
£ditpr  will  highly  appreciate  any  communications  with  which 
travellers  may  favour  him,  if  the  result  of  their  own  exper- 
ience. Hotel-bills,  with  annotations  showing  the  traveller's 
opinion  as  to  his  treatment  and  accommodation,  are  partic- 
ularly useful. 

The  contents  of  the  Handbook  are  divided  into  Eight 
Sections  (I.  The  Basque  Provinces,  Old  and  New  Castile; 
II.  Aragon  and  Navarre;  III.  Catalonia;  IV.  Valencia  and 
Mnrcia;  V.  Andalusia;  VI.Estremadura;  YII.  Leon,  Asturias, 
and  Galicia;  YIII.  Portugal),  each  of  which  may  be  separately 
removed  from  the  book  by  the  traveller  who  desires  to  mini- 
mize the  bulk  of  his  luggage.  To  each  section  is  prefixed 
a  list  of  the  routes  it  contains,  so  that  each  forms  an  approx- 
imately complete  volume  apart  from  the  general  table  of  con- 
tents or  the  generalindex. 

The  introductory  article  on  Spanish  Art,  written  by 
Professor  C,  Justi  of  Bonn,  will  aid  the  traveller  to  an  in- 
telligent appreciation  of  the  paintings,  statues,  and  architect- 
ural monuments  seen  during  his  tour. 


vl  PREFACE. 

The  Maps  and  Plans,  on  which  special  care  has  been 
bestowed,  will  often  render  material  service  to  the  traveller, 
and  enable  him  at  a  glance  to  ascertain  his  bearings  and 
select  the  best  routes.  When  not  otherwise  indicated  (as,  e.g,, 
in  the  case  of  Seville  and  Barcelona),  both  maps  and  plans 
are  drawn  with  the  N.  side  uppermost. 

Heights  are  given  in  English  feet  (1  Engl.  ft.  =  0.3048 
m^tre),  Distances  in  English  miles  (except  in  the  case  of 
mountain-excursions,  where  the  time  they  occupy  is  given  as 
more  convenient),  and  the  Populations  in  accordance  with 
the  most  recent  census. 

Hotels.  The  Editor  has  endeavoured  to  enumerate,  not 
only  the  first-class  hotels  (comp.,  however,  p.  xx),  but  also 
others  of  less  pretension,  which  may  safely  be  selected  by  the 
*voyageur  en  gar^on'.  Although  changes  frequently  take 
place,  and  prices  generally  have  an  upward  tendency,  the 
average  charges  stated  in  the  Handbook  will  enable  the  trav- 
eller to  form  a  fair  estimate  of  his  expenditure.  The  value  of 
the  asterisks,  which  are  used  as  marks  of  commendation,  is 
relative  only,  those  prefixed  to  town-hotels  and  village-inns 
signifying  that  the  houses  are  good  of  their  respective  kinds. 

To  hotel-keepers,  tradesmen,  and  others  the  Editor  begs 
to  intimate  that  a  character  for  fair  dealing  and  courtesy  to- 
wards travellers  forms  the  sole  passport  to  his  commenda- 
tion, and  that  advertisements  of  every  kind  are  strictly  ex- 
cluded from  his  Handbooks.  Hotel-owners  are  also  warned 
against  persons  representing  themselves  as  agents  for  Bae- 
deker^s  Handbooks. 

As  the  aecentoation  of  Spanish  words  is  often  puzzling,  the  accented 
syllable  is  frequently  marked  in  the  Handbook.  This  is,  however,  done 
systematically  only  in  such  words  as  Sal<5n,  which  the  Spaniards  them- 
selyes  write  with  an  accent. 


CONTENTS. 


Introdnction. 

Page 
I.  Travelling  Expenses.   Money.  Language.  Passports. 

Custom  House xi 

II.  Travelling  Season.   Plan  of  Tour xiii 

III.  RaOways.  Tramways.   Diligences.  vSteamers.  Cycling  xv 

IV.  Post  Office.   Telegraph  Office nix 

V.  Hotels.   Restaurants.    Beer  Houses.   CaMs.   Cigars  .  xx 

VI.  Churches.  Museums.   Shops xxiii 

VII.  Gratuities.   Guides.   Public  Security.   Beggars  .    .    .  xxiv 

VIII.  Intercourse  with  the  People xxv 

IX.  Theatres.  Bull  Fights.   Juego  de  Pelota xxvi 

X.  Climate  and  Health.   Physicians  and  Chemists  .    .    .  xxx 
XI.  Chronological  Table  of  the  Chief  Events  in  Spanish 

History xxxili 

Xn.  Bibliography xxxvii 

Glossary  of  Spanish  Terms xxxviii 

Historical  Sketch  of  Spanish  Art,  by  Professor  C.  Justi  xxxix 

I.  The  Basque  Provinces.  Old  and  New  Castile    .    .    .    .  2, 5 

Route 

1.  From  (Hendaye)  Irun  via  Zumlrraga,  Miranda  de 
Ebro ,  Burgos ,  and  Valladolid  to  Medina  del  Oampo 
(Lisbon,  Madrid) 8 

2.  From  Zumarraga  to  Bilbao  and  Miranda  de  Ebro  .     19 

3.  Burgos 26 

4.  VaUadolid 36 

5.  From  Venta  de  Bafios  (Madrid)  to  Santander  ...     39 

6.  From  Medina  del  Campo  to  Madrid  via  Avila,  Escorial, 
andViUalba 46 

7.  From  Medina  del  Campo  to  Madrid  vial  Segovia  and 
Villalba 50 

8.  Madrid 62 

9.  Excursions  from  Madrid 108 

10.  From  Madrid  to  Saragossa 161 

n.  Amgon  and  Havarre 169 

11.  Saragossa 163 

12.  From  Saragossa  to  Castejon  and  Miranda  de  Ebro  .  173 


Till  CONTENTS. 

Route  Page 

13.  From  Saragossa  to  Tardienta  and  L^rida  (Barcelona)  178 

14.  From  Saragossa  to  Reus  (Barcelona) 180 

HI.  Catalonia 183 

15.  From  Perpignan  to  Barcelona      186 

16.  Barcelona     .    . 194 

17.  From  Barcelona  to  L^rlda  (Saragossa,  Madrid)  .    .    .211 

18.  The  Montserrat 218 

19.  From  Barcelona  to  San  Vicente  de  Calders  and  R^us 
(Saragossa,  Madrid) .  226 

20.  From  Barcelona  via  San  Vicente  de  Calders  to  Tarra- 
gona (Tortosa,  Valencia) 230 

21.  Tarragona 231 

22.  From  Tarragona  to  L^rida  via  Reus 237 

23.  From  Tarragona  to  Tortosa  (Valencia) 238 

IV.  Valencia  and  Mnrcia 241 

24.  From  Tortosa  (Tarragona)  to  Valencia 245 

25.  Valencia 262 

26.  From  Valencia  to  Carcagente  and  La  Encina  (Madrid, 
Cordova,  Alicante,  Murcia)      267 

27.  From  Carcagente  (Valencia)  to  Gandfa  and  D^nia  .    .   271 

28.  From  Jativa  to  Alcoy  and  Alicante     ; 274 

29.  From  Madrid  to  Alicante  vi^  Alcazar,  Chinchilla,  and 

La  Encina 275 

30.  From  Alicante  to  Murcia  vi4  Elche  and  Alquerfa  .    .   282 
31    From  Chinchilla  (Madrid)  to  Murcia  and  Cartagena  284 

V.  Andalusia 293 

32.  From  Murcia  to  Granada  vik  Lorca,  Baza,  and  Guadix  297 

33.  From  Madrid  to  Seville  via  Alcazar,  Cordova,  and 
Tpcijia 300 

34.  From  Espeluy  to  Ja^n  and  Puente  Genii 305 

.  35.  Cdrdova 307 

36.  From  C6rdova  to  Malaga  via  Puente  Genii  and  Bobadilla  319 

37.  Malaga 321 

38.  From  Bohadilla  (Cordova)  to  Granada 328 

39.  Granada  and  the  Alhamhra 331 

40.  From  Bohadilla  to  Gibraltar  via  Ronda  and  Algeciras  369 

41.  From  Gibraltar  to  Cadiz  viH  Tangiers 380 

42.  From  Bobadilla  to  Utrera  (Seville,  Cadiz)  via  La  Eoda 
and  Marchena 386 

43.  SevUle 387 

44.  From  Seville  to  Huelva.  La  Rabida.  Palos.  Rio  Tinto 
.Mines    . .423 

.  45.  From  SevUle  to  Cadiz 425 

46.  Cadiz 434 


MAPS  AND  PLANS. 


^4.  Environs  of  Cadiz  (1 :  190,000) :  p.  434. 
^-5.  Environs  of  Lisbon  (1 :  260,000):  p.  538. 
-6.  Environs  of  Oporto  (1 :  66,500):  p.  582. 

b.  Plans  op  Towns. 
^1.  AUcante  (1 :  16,000).  — v2.  Aranjuex  (1 :  19,300).  — ''S.  Avila 
(1 :  12,600).  —^4.  Barcelona  (1 :  37,000).  —^6.  Barcelona,  inner 
town  (1 :  15,000).  --^.  Bi£bao  (1 :  15,000).  --7.  Burgos  (1 :  11,000). 
--«.  Cadiz  (1  :  10,000).  — ^.  Cartagena  (1 :  28,000).  —^10.  Coim- 
bra  (1  :  9000).  —  ^  11.  Cordova  (1  :  15,000).  —  -12.  Escorial 
(1 :  14,000).  —43.  Gibraltar  (1 :26,000).  —AA.  Granada  (1 :  8700). 

— vl5.  La  Granja  (1 :  15,000). 16.  Lisbon  (1 :  15,000).  —  17. 

-Madrid  (1  :  36,000).  —48.  Madrid,  inner  town  (1  :  12,000).  — 
vl9.  Malaga  (1  :  13,000).  —•^0.  Oporto  (1 :  15,000).  —^1.  Sagunto 
(1  :  9600).  —^2.  Salamanca  (1  :  13,500).  —23.  San  Sebastian 
(1  :  18,000).  — v24.  SarUander  (1  :  13,200).  —-26.  Santiago  de 
Compostela  (1  :  13,000).  —^6.  Saragossa  (1  :  13,000). 27.  Se- 
govia (I  :  20,000).  —^28.  SevUU  (1  :  10,000). 29.    TangUrs 

(1  :  6500).  — *30.  Tarragona  (1 :  13,700).  —^31.  Toledo  (1  :  10,000). 
—^2.  Valencia  (1  :  8760).  —33.  ValladoUd  (1  :  16,000). 

c.  Plans  of  Buildings. 
''I.   Cathedral  of  Burgos.  — ''2.  Prado  Museum  at  Madrid.  — 
-3.  The  Escorial.  —"4.  Cathedral  of  Toledo.  --^.  Cathedral  of  Bar- 
celona. — '6.  Mosque  of  Cordova. 1.  Cathedral  of  Granada.  — 

-'S.  TheAJharnbra.—^.  Alcdzar  of  Seville. — 40.  Cathedral  of  Seville, 
— 11.  Convent  of  Batalha.  —42.  Caihedral  of  Leon.  — 43.  Cathe- 
dral of  Santiago  de  Compostela, 


Abbbeyiations. 


R.  =  Boom,  Rente. 

A.  =  Attendance. 
L.  =  Light. 

B.  =  Breakfast. 

D.  =  Dinner. 

D^j.  =  dejeuner,  luncheon. 
Pens.  =  Pension,  i.e.  board  and 

lodging. 
N.  =  North,  Northern,  etc. 
S.   =  South,  etc. 

E.  =  East,  etc. 
W.  =  West,  etc. 


M.  =  Engl.  mile. 

omn.  =  omnibus. 

fr.  =  franc. 

p.  =  peseta. 

c.  =  centimes,  centimes. 

rs.  =  rei's. 

ft.  =  Engl.  foot. 

min.  =  minute. 

hr.  =  hour. 

comp.  =  compare. 

r.  =  right. 

1.  =  left. 


The  letter  d  with  a  date,  after  the  name  of  a  person,  indicates  the 
year  of  his  death.  The  number  of  feet  given  after  the  name  of  a  place 
shows  its  height  above  the  sea-level.  The  number  of  miles  placed  before 
the  stations  on  railway-routes  indicates  their  distance  from  the  starting- 
point  of  the  route.  

AsTEBisKs  are  used  as  marks  of  commendation. 


INTRODUCTION. 


The  following  remarks  apply  primarily  to  Spain^  but  most  of  them 
are  also  true  of  Porluaal,  A  few  special  notes  on  the  latter  country  will 
be  found  at  pp.  601-603.  

I.   Trayelling  Ezpensefl.    Money.    Lan^age.    Pasiporti. 
Custom  House. 

TBAYBifLiNO  ExpBNSBs.  The  cost  of  a  joarney  iu  Spain  does 
not  materially  differ  from  that  of  one  in  the  other  parts  of  Europe 
frequented  by  tourists.  The  average  daily  expenditure,  exclusive 
of  railway-fares,  will  vary  from  12  to  20  pesetas  according  to  the 
traveller's  requirements,  while  10-15  p.  per  day  should  be  enough 
for  a  prolonged  stay  in  one  place.  Parties  of  two  or  three  trav- 
ellers, who  are  familiar  with  the  country  and  its  language,  may 
considerably  reduce  the  above  figures. 

MoNBT.  The  currency  of  Spain  is  now  arranged  on  the  decimal 
system,  like  that  of  France.  The  Peseta^  divided  into  100  C^ntimoSy 
is  the  nominal  equivalent  of  the  franc  (1  p.  =  1  fr.  s=>  9^/2d.),  In 
consequence,  however,  of  the  unsatisfactory  state  of  the  national 
finances,  Spanish  money  has  sunk  far  helow  its  nominal  value,  and 
the  rate  of  exchange  is  constantly  fluctuating.  The  gold  pieces  of 
10,  20,  and  25  p.  have  entirely  disappeared  from  ordinary  circula- 
tion. The  current  coins  are  silver  pieces  of  72?  ^t  %  ^^^  ^  P-f  ^^^ 
copper  pieces  of  1,  2,  5,  and  10  c.  The  Banco  de  E*pana  at  Madrid 
issues  notes  of  the  value  of  26,  50,  100,  600,  and  1000  p.  The 
older  silver  pieces  of  20  RedUs  (5  p.).  10  rls.  (2V2  pO»  ^  ^^^'  (^  P0» 
and  2  rls.  (^2  P-)  we  still  occasionally  met  with,  but  are  being 
gradually  vnthdrawn  firom  circulation.  Reckoning  by  reales  is  still 
common  in  retail  trade  *,  the  piece  of  5  p.  is  popularly  known  as 
Jhiro  (dollar),  and  the  pieces  of  10  c.  and  6  c.  are  often  jocularly 
termed  jperro  grande  or  gordo  Cbig'  or  *fat  dog')  and  perro  chico  or 
perrita  ('little  dog').  —  No  paper  money  should  be  accepted  except 
the  above-mentioned  notes.  Spanish  silver  coins  with  the  legend 
^centavos  de  pe'*o'  should  be  rejected,  as  should  alfio  be  the  coins  of 
Mexico,  the  Philippines,  and  Spanish  America.  Every  shop-counter 
in  Spain  Is  provided  with  a  stone  slab  for  the  testing  of  silver 
coins,  and  the  traveller  should  also  learn  to  know  their  true  ring, 
as  false  coins  are  by  no  means  uncommon.  A  handful  of  change 
should  nerer  be  taken  without  examination,  since  even  railway 
officials  v^ill  sometimes  try  to  take  advantage  of  the  unsuspecting 
stranger  by  passing  base  money  mingled  with  the  good. 


xli  PASSPORTS. 

Engliih  Banknotes  may  be  advantsgeoasly  changed  at  any  of  the  large 
towns  or  seaports  of  Spain,  and  French  Banknotes  are  equally  available  in 
the  N.  part  of  the  country.  Sovereigns  are  accepted  almost  everywhere 
for  25  p.,  but  sometimes  realize  28-30  p.  at  a  money-changer's.  For  a  lolig 
stay  it  will  be  found  convenient  to  have  a  Zetter  of  Credit,  addressed  to 
some  reputable  banker. 

The  tourist  should  always  carry  an  ample  supply  of  coppers  and  other 
small  change  (pp.  xxiv,  xzv).  It  is  convenient  to  have  the  money  required  for 
the  day  in  a  purse  by  itself.    Coppers  are  best  carried  loose  in  the  pocket. 

Languaoe.  It  is  quite  possible  to  traYel  in  Spain  without  a 
knowledge  of  Spanish  (lengua  castellana),  as  either  English  or  French 
is  pretty  sure  to  be  spoken  in  the  hotels  generally  frequented  by 
tourists.  Those,  however,  who  are  entirely  ignorant  of  the  language 
will  often  be  exposed  to  inconvenience  and  extortion,  while  they 
will  hardly  be  in  a  position  to  form  an  adequate  judgment  of  the 
country  or  to  derive  the  full  measure  of  pleasure  and  profit  from 
their  journey.  Even  a  superficial  knowledge  of  Spanish  is,  there- 
fore, highly  desirable.  + 

Passfobts  are  not  essential  in  either  Spain  or  Portugal,  though 
travellers  leaving  Portugal  by  sea  require  a  special  authorisation 
(comp.  p.  603).  Nevertheless  the  traveller  is  strongly  advised  to 
provide  himself  with  a  passport  before  starting  and  to  have  it  vUi 
at  a  Spanish  consulate.  Post-office  officials  generally  insist  upon 
seeing  the  passport  before  delivering  registered  or  money  letters ; 
and  it  is  often  useful  in  proving  the  identity  of  the  traveller,  in 
securing  admission  to  collections  at  other  than  the  regular  hours, 
and  in  many  other  ways.  In  excursions  in  the  less-frequented 
regions  of  the  interior  a  passport  is  practically  indispensable  ]  and 
it  is  obvious  that  the  countenance  of  the  British  and  American  con- 
suls can  be  extended  only  to  those  who  can  prove  their  nationality. 

The  chief  passport  agents  in  London  are  Lee  is  Carter,  440  West  Strand  ^ 
W.  J.  Adams,  59  Fleet  Street ;  C.  Smith  A  Son,  63  Charing  Cross  ^  and 
£.  Stanford,  26  Cockspur  Street,  Charing  Cross. 

Custom  HorsB.  The  custom-house  examination  on  the  inland 
frontiers  is  generally  lenient;  hut  passengers  by  sea  have  their 
luggage  examined  every  time  they  land  and  sometimes  again  at  the 


t  Sauer's  Spanish  Conversation  Grammar  (5th  edit.;  Heidelberg,  1891) 
and  The  Interpreter  Superseded  (Part  IV,  English-Spanish  5  Dulau  &  Co., 
London ;  price  is.)  will  be  found  useful  aids  for  the  beginner.  —  The  following 
notes  on  the  pronunciation  may  *be  serviceable :  in  the  middle  of  a  word 
b  often  sounds  like  v;  before  e  and  i  c  is  pronounced  like  th  in  thin,  in 
other  cases  like  k;  ch  sounds  as  in  church;  d  final  is  almost  inaudible; 
g  is  hard,  except  before  e  and  i,  when  it  resembles  the  Scottish  guttural 
ch  in  loch;  h  is  almost  inaudible;  J  =  ch  in  loch  (QuO'o'e  =  kichote; 
reloj  =  reloch);  II  sounds  like  the  Italian  gl  or  like  Hi  In  postillion 
(lluvia  =  lyuvia);  fS  like  the  French  gn  id(Ma  =  donya);  f,  somewhat 
sharper  than  in  English ;  <  =  ss ;  a;  is  now  used  only  in  such  Latin  words 
as  examen  and  sounds  as  in  English;  p  between  vowels  as  in  English,  at 
the  end  of  a  word  like  ee  (rey  =  re-ee,  reyes  =  re-yes);  z  is  pronounced 
Hke  c  before  e  and  i  (see  above).  The  vowels  are  pronounced  -as  in 
'alian  (a  =  ah,  e  =  ay,  <  =  ee,  o  =  oh,  «  =  00) ;  m  is  silent  between  g 
d  e  or  i,  uijless  it  is  provided  with  a  *crema'  (Sigtlenza). 


PLAN  OF  TOUR.  xlii 

railway-station.  The  chief  objects  sought  for  are  tobacco  and  cigars, 
but  many  other  articles  are  liable  to  4nty  if  the  officer  does  not  pass 
them  as  'used  effects'  (efectos  usados).  Bribery  should  not  be  at- 
tempted. Receipts  should  be  preserved.  —  In  many  places  the  lug- 
gage is  subjected  to  a  second  examination  by  the  officers  of  the 
*  octroi',  either  at  the  exit  of  the  railway-station  or  at  the  gate  of 
the  city.  This  is  often  extended  in  the  most  ruthless  manner  even 
to  the  hand-bags  of  the  tourist. 

n.   Txayelling  Seaion.   Pfam  of  Tour. 

The  best  seasons  for  travelling  in  the  elevated  interior  of  Spain 
are  from  the  middle  of  Sept  to  the  end  of  Nov.  and  from  May  Ist 
to  June  15th;  for  Andalusia  and  the  Spanish  coast  of  the  Medi- 
terranean the  best  months  are  Oct.,  Nov.,  and  (especially)  from 
March- 15th  to  May  15th. 

Seville  attracts  an  enormous  crowd  of  English  and  other  strangers 
during  Holy  Week  and  its  Feria  or  annual  fair.  Pleasant  summer 
quarters  are  afforded  by  San  Sthasti&n^  Zaravx^  Lai  Arenas,  San- 
tander,  and  other  bathing-resorts  on  the  N.  coast,  but  these  are 
frequented  almost  solely  by  Spaniards.  The  months  of  July  and 
August  are  not  favourable  travelling-seasons  for  either  Central  or 
S.  Spain.  It  is  true  that  nature  is  then  seen  iu  her  most  gorgeous 
dress  and  also  that  the  long  days  give  unlimited  scope  for  sight- 
seeing, but  it  is  no  less  true  that  the  intense  heat  and  continued 
dryness  of  the  atmosphere  deprive  the  stranger  of  the  energy  and 
serenity  necessary  for  a  satisfactory  enjoyment  of  his  trip. 

Plan  of  Toub.  The  following  skeleton-plans  will  give,  to  those 
tourists  who  prefer  not  to  be  bound  down  by  the  limitations  of  a  cir- 
cular ticket  (p.  xvli),  an  idea  of  the  most  interesting  places  described 
in  the  Handbook ;  while  they  can  easily  be  modified  as  the  season, 
the  weather,  or  the  preferences  of  the  traveller  may  determine. 

a.  Two  Months  in  Spain  and  Portugal. 

Days 

Sao  SebMtidn  (B.  1),  with  journey  to  Zumdrraga  and  Bilbao  (KR.  1,  2)  IVs 

Bilbao  (R.  2).  with  journey  to  Miranda  de  JEbro  and  Burgos  (RR.  1,  2)  IV2 

Burgos.  {B,.  3) 1 

Journey  to  Medina  da  Campo  and  Salamanca  (night-journey ;  RR.  1,  50)  — 

Salamanca  (R.  50)     1 

To  Fregeneda  and  Oporto  (RR.  6,  66) 1 

Oporto  (R.  64) 2 

To  Paanpilhosa  (with  digression  to  Bussaco)  and  Cot'm&m.  (R.  63)     .  .  Vk 

Coimbra  (R.  62) l»/2 

To  Alfareltot,  Amieira,  asd  Leiria  (RR.  59,  60) Vz 

By  earriage  or  diligence  to  Balalha  and  Alcoba^a  (R.  60) 1 

Mafra,  with  journey  to  Caeem  and  Cintra  (RR.  59,  58) 1 

Ointra.  and  journey  to  Lisbon  (R.  56) 2 

LiOHM  (R.  55) • , 3 

To  Torre  deu  Vargens  and  Badajoz  (R.  54)    .  .  ' 1 

Badajot,  and  thence  to  MMda  (R.  48) 1 

Mirida  (B.  48) 1 


xiv  PLAN  OF  TOUR. 

Daya 

To  Zd^ra  and  Seville  (E.  49) 1 

aevilU  (R.  43) 4 

To  Cadiz  (R.  45) 1/2 

Cadiz  (R.  46) 1 

By  steamer  to  Tangiera  (R.  41) 1 

Tangiert,  with  excursion  to  Cape  Spartel  (R.  41) 2 

By  steamer  to  Gibraltar  (R.  41) 1/2 

Gibraltar  (R.  40) 1 

To  Algecirat  and  Ronda  (R.  40} 1/2 

Ronda  (R.  iO) 1/2 

To  Bobadilla  and  Granada  (RR.  40,  47) 1/2 

Granada  (R.  39) 8 

To  Bo  'adilla  and  Malaga  (RR,  33,  36) V« 

i/aZai/a  (R.  37) I1/2 

To  Bobadilla  and  Cordova  (R.  36) V« 

Cordova  (R.  35) *   .   .  1 

To  Custillejo  nn^  Toledo  (night-journey;  BR.  38,29) V2 

ro??do  (R.  9) IV2 

To  CasUlleJo  and  ^fan/w««  (R.  29) »/« 

i4ra»v««^,   and  thence  to  Madrid  (RR.  9,  29) 1 

Madrid  (R.  8) 5 

Excursion  to  Escorial  (R.  9) 1 

To  Saragossa  (n.  10) 1 

Saragoisa  (R.  11) 2 

By  Puebla  de  Hijar  and  Reus,   or  by  Lirida  and  i2«M«,   to  Tarragona 

(night-journey;  RR.  14,  22) 1/2 

Tarraflrona,  and  thence  to  Barcelona  (RR.  21,  20) 1 

Barcelona  (R.  16) 2 

Excursion  to  the  i/b»f«erra«  (RR.  17, 18) 1-2 

From  Barcelona  to  Gerona  and  Cerbhre  (R.  15) V2 

b.  Six  or  Seven  Weeks  in  Spain. 

San  8d>aitidn  to  Burgos  as  above 4 

By  Medina  del  Gampo  to  Avila  (by  day  or  night;  RR.  1,  6) Va 

Avila  (R.  6),  and  thence  to  Escoriol  (R.  6) IV2 

Escorial.  and  thence  to  Madrid  (RR.  6,  9) 1 

ifadnd  (R.  8) 5 

By  Aranjnez   (V2-I  day)  and  Castillejo  to  Tofedo  (RR.  29,  9) IV2 

Toledo  (R.  9) 2 

By  Castillejo  to  Cordova  (night-journey;  RR.  29,  33) 1/2 

Cordova  (R.  35) 1 

To  Seville V2 

Seville^  Cadiz^  Tangiers^  Gibraltar^  Ronda^  and  Granada  as-in  Tour  a  I2V2 

By  carriage  or  diligence  to  Guadix  and  Baza  (R.  32) 1 

By  Lorca  to  Murcia  (B.  32) 1 

Murcia  (R.  31) 1 

By  j&ic^e  (1/2  day)  to  Alicante  (R.  30) 1 

Alicante  (R.  29) 1 

By    carriage    or   diligence    to   Alcoy^    and    by    railway   to    Granada 

(RR.  28,  27) 1 

Dmia  (R.  27) 1 

By  Gandia  and  Carcagente  to  Valencia  (RR.  27,  26) 1 

Valencia 1 

By  Sagunio  (V2  day)  to  Tarragona  (RR.  24,  23) 1 

Tarragona,  Barcelona,  Montserrat^  Gerona^  and  Cevbhre  as  in  Tour  a  i^/fb^/2 

c.  One  Montli  in  Spain. 

San  Sebastian  (R.  1) ,   ,  1 

To  Burgos  (R.  1) Va 

Burgos  (B.  3) • 1 

By  Medina  del  Campo  and  Avila  to  Escorial  (night-journey;  R.  6)  .   .  1 


RAILWAYS.  XV 

Day* 

^teoriea  land  journey  to  Madrid  (BB.  9,  6) 1 

Madrid  (B.  8) 4 

By  Algodor  to   Toledo  (BB.  18,  29)   ...  ' V« 

Toledo  (B.  9) 1V« 

To  Cordova  and  Seville  as  in  Tonr  b 6 

From  Seville  to  Virera^  La  Roda^  Bobadillay  and  Oranada  (BB.  43,  38)  1 

Granada  (B.  39) 2 

Via  Bobadilla  to  Jfafcva  (BB.  3^,  36), Vt 

Malaga  (B.  37) IVt 

Via  Bobadilla  and  Cordova  to  ^ran>iitf  (BR.  36,  33,  29) 1 

Arai^/uee  and  journey  to  Madrid  (RB.  9,  29) 1 

Saragosea,  Tarragona^  Barcelona^  and  Cerbire  as  in  Tour  a 8 

The  above  tours  by  no  means  exhaust  the  attractions  of  the 
Peninsula;  and  there  are  many  small  towns  lying  aside  from  the 
beaten  tracks  of  tourists  that  will  well  repay  a  visit. 

For  the  Steamboat  Communications  with  Spain  and  Portugal, 
comp.  pp.  xvii,  xviii. 

m.  Bailways.t  Tramways.  Siligenoes.  Steamera. 
Bailwayi .  The  unsatisfactory  condition  of  the  Spanish  railways 
glTes  rise  to  many  complaints.  Their  speed  is  very  low.  The  express 
trains  (tren  expreso)  on  a  few  of  the  main  lines  (sometimes  with 
first-class  carriages  only)  and  even  the  ^trains  de  luxe'  (tren  sur  ex- 
preso; first-class  only,  virith  fares  raised  by  50  per  cent)  seldom  run 
faster  than  25  M.  an  hour;  the  ordinary  trains  (tren  eorreo,  trenmixto  ; 
1st,  2nd,  and  3rd  class)  never  attain  a  speed  of  more  than  15  M.  an 
hour  and  are  often  much  behind  time,  especially  in  S.  Spain.  In 
winter  the  carriages  are  provided  with  foot-warmers  (calorCferos), 
The  third  class  carriages,  which  have  sometimes  seats  on  the  roof 
also,  are  used  exclusively  by  members  of  the  lower  classes.  The 
second-class  carriages  have  narrow  and  uncomfortable  seats  for 
10  persons  and  are  generally  dirty  and  neglected.  Tourists,  espe- 
cially if  ladies  are  of  the  party,  will  therefore  do  well  to  select  the 
first-class  carriages,  which  are  fitted  up  like  those  of  France.  They 
are,  however,  by  no  means  so  comfortable  as  they  should  be,  and 
on  the  main  Unes  they  are  often  over- crowded.  The  number  of 
seats  is  6  or  8;  and  some  of  these  are  often  occupied  by  the  con- 
ductors of  the  train,  and  even  railway-labourers,  who  scramble  into 
the  train  between  stations.  Every  train  is  bound  to  have  a  first- 
class  compartment  reserved  for  ladies  (departamento  reservadopara 
senoras)  and  another  for  non-smokers  (para  no  fumadores),  but 
the  iivjunction  in  the  latter  is  seldom  heeded  by  Spanish  travellers. 

f  The  Ouia  para  lot  viajeroe  de  loe  ferroearrilet  de  EtpoMa^  Franoia  y 
Portugal,  y  de  lot  tervieioe  maritimoe  (monthly  ^  60  c.)  purports  to  give  the 
time-tables  and  fares  of  the  railways,  tramways,  and  steamers  of  the  Iberian 
Peninsula,  but  it  is  very  defective  and  badly  arranged.  The  Ouia  general 
de  ferroearrilet  (monthly^  1  p.)  is  better,  but  concerns  the  railways  only. 
The  Ouia  annuneiador  e  indieador  official  dot  Caminhot  de  Ferro  e  da  Nave- 
gagao  de  Portugal  (1^  rs.)  and  the  Ouia  official  dot  Caminhot  de  Ferro  de 
Portugal  (iO  rs.)  deal  exclusively  with  Portugal. 


xvi  .  RAILWAYS. 

Among  the  expressiona  that  the  railway  traveller  will  find  con- 
venient to  understand  are  the  following :  viajeroi  al  trm,  take  your  aeatB  \ 
se  edmJbia  el  tren  (el  coche,  la  linea),  change  carriages ;  parada ,  halt,  stop- 
page \  parada  y  fonda^  halt  for  a  meal ;  enlrada,  entrance ,  tatida^  exit, 
way  out ;  despacho  de  billetes^  ticket-offlcte ;  Jef4  de  estaoidn^  station-master. 

At  nearly  all  railway-junctions,  frontier- stations,  and  so  on  there 
are  fair  railway-restaurants  C/ondof),  where  table-d''hdte  luncheon  (almuerzo) 
or  dinner  (comida)  is  ready  for  the  passengers  t8-3V2  p.,  wine  included; 
comp.  p".  xxi).  Those  who  prefer  to  eat  in  a  more  leisurely  fashion 
may  provide  themselves  with  food  and  wine  to  consume  in  the  railway 
carriage.  In  this  case  Spanish  custom  demands,  the  formality  of  asking 
your  fellow-passengers  to  share  with  you  CUtted  gfutd"). 

Passengers  by  the  night-trains  may  hire  pillows  (almokadoi)  and 
rugs  (manias)  at  the  larger  stations  (1  p.  each).  These  are  left  in  the 
carriages  when  done  with. 

In  Madrid,  Barcelona,  Saragossa ,  Granada ,  Malaga,  and  some 
other  large  towns  the  traveller  may  take  his  ticket  (tomar  el  billete) 
and  check  his  luggage  (facturar  el  equipaje)  1-2 hrs.  before  the  depar- 
ture of  the  train  at  the  Despacho  Oentral^  in  the  middle  of  the  town. 
The  Omnibus  General  also  starts  from  this  point,  but  always  a  good 
deal  sooner  than  is  absolutely  necessary.  The  ticket  and  luggage 
offices  at  the  large  stations  open  1  hr.  and  close  */4  hr.  before  the  de- 
parture of  the  train,  at  smaller  stations  ^2  ^^'  ^^^  ^  minutes.  The 
service  is  so  defective  that  it  is  advisable  to  reach  the  station  early, 
though  the  waiting-rooms  are  always  poor  and  sometimes  non-exist- 
ent. Passengers  are  generally  not  allowed  to  enter  either  waiting- 
room  or  platform  unless  they  have  their  railway-tickets  or  a  ticket 
of  admission  {billete  de  andin,  26-60  c).  If  possible,  the  traveller 
should  have  the  exact  fare  ready  at  the  ticket-office.  The  railway- 
ticket  has  to  be  shown  in  booking  luggage.  The  fare  is  6,  9,  and 
12  c.  per  kilomHre  according  to  class.  In  addition  there  is  a  stamp- 
duty  of  10  c.  on  tickets  above  10  p. 

LuaoAGB  to  the  amount  of  66  lbs.  (30  kg.)  is  free.  On  short  journeys, 
however,  the  traveller  is  advised  to  limit  himself  to  a  small  portman- 
teau that  he  can  take  into  the  carriage  and,  if  necessary,  wield  himself, 
as  the  treatment  of  trunks  in  the  luggage-van  is  not  very  gentle,  and 
generally  a  long  delay  takes  place  on  arrival  before  the  baggage  is  dis- 
tributed. Articles  of  value  should  not  be  entrusted  to  trunks,  as  robbery 
en  route  is  not  unknown,  and  the  railway-company  does  not  hold  itself 
responsible  for  losses  of  this  kind.  —  A  hand-bag  is  called  maleta^  a 
trunk  haiil,  the  luggage-check  taldn  or  loletin  de  equipage.  The  porter 
(mozo)  receives  30  c.-l  p.  for  carrying  the  baggage  from  the  train  to  the 
cab  or  vice  versa.  In  checking  small  baggage  at  the  left  luggage-office, 
passengers  should  see  that  the  correct  number  of  articles  (huUos)  is 
entered  on  the  receipt. 

At  the  frontier-Stations  of  Hendaye,Irun,  Oerb^re,  andPort-Bou 
there  are  Monbt  Changers  ,  who  can  supply  Spanish  money  to  a 
moderate  amount.  —  The  trains  all  run  on  Madrid  time  (comp. 
p.  ii),  and  the  difference  between  railway  and  local  time  is  often 
considerable.  —  Carriages  have  always  to  be  changed  on  the  frontier 
owing  to  the  difference  between  the  gauges  of  France  and  Spain, 
but  the  trains  are  run  alongside  of  each  other  and  the  inconvenience 
is  reduced  to  a  minimum.  —  Information  as  to  the  Trains  de  Luxe 
'p.  xv)  and  Sleeping  Caes  (saloru^liU)  on  the  express-trains  is 


RAILWAYS.  xt!1 

given  in  the  text  in  connection  with  the  various  routes.  The  trains 
on  the  main  iines  are  also  provided  ^with  flrst-class  view-compart- 
ments (herlinas) ,  with  so-called  sleeping  compartments  (berUnaa^ 
comas;  seats  only),  and  sleepin|^  compartments  with  toilet  accom- 
modation (eamat'tocadoret).  The  fare  on  the  first  of  these  is  raised 
10  per  cent,  with  a  minimum  of  27 1/2  p.  Three  or  four  passengers 
may  aacore  the  whole  of  a  sleeping  compartment  for  a  minimum 
of  8272  or  liO  p.  The  fare  for  the  camas-trocaderos  is  60  per  cent 
above  first-class  fare  (minimum  42  p.),  hut  a  whole  one  may  he 
secured  for  four  ordinary  fares. 

BsTUKN  Tickets  (bilUUs  de  ida  y  vueltajy  available  for  1-2  days, 
are  issued  on  a  few  lines  only,  and  the  reduction  in  the  fare  is  gener- 
ally insignificant 

GoLcuLAB  TouB  TicxBTS  (viajes  eirculares)  may  he  obtained 
for  either  Spain  or  Portugal,  but  none  is  issued  embracing  the  chief 
cities  of  both  countries.  Their  use  is  attended  by  considerable  restric- 
tions on  the  traveller's  liberty ,  but  those  who  do  not  shun  this  in- 
convenience may  best  procure  them  at  Madrid.  A  circular  ticket  for 
Andalusia  (Madrid,  Alc&zar,  G6rdova,  Granada,  Malaga,  Jerez,  Cadiz, 
Seville ,  and  Toledo)  is  available  for  60  days  (fares  184  p.  35  c, 
139  p.  40  c.);  for  Portugal  (Madrid,  Valladolid,  Palencia,  Oporto, 
Coimbra,  Lisbon,  Caceres,  Plasencia)  for  60  days  (140  p.  10  c,  112 
p.  65  c).  For  details,  see  the  Quia  general  de  FerrocarriUi  (p.  xv). 

The  circular  tickets  for  combined  tours  in  France  and  Spain  have 
been  diacontlnued  owing  to  the  instability  of  the  Spanish  currency. 

Tramwayi  (tramvCas)  are  found  in  all  the  larger  towns,  but 
steam  or  the  electric  motor  is  used  for  them  only  in  a  few  places  in 
N.Spain.  The  cars  are  called  coches.  Smoking  is  almost  universal. 

Biligeneei ,  in  the  form  of  large  omnibuses  drawn  by  6-12  mules 
or  horses,  are  now  of  comparatively  little  Importance  to  the  tourist. 
The  front  seats  in  the  berlina  are  better  and  a  flttle  dearer  than  the 
seats  in  the  inUri6r.  Places  should  be  secured  in  good  time.  A 
small  fee  is  usually  given  to  the  driver  (mayoral). 

BtMuuboati.  A  voyage  on  the  Mediterranean  is  a  charming  ex- 
perience in  good  weather,  but  off  the  Atlantic  coast  of  the  peninsula 
the  sea  is  generally  rough  and  sea-sickness  is  apt  to  spoil  all  plea- 
sure. There  are  several  lines  of  steamers  between  England  and  the 
Iberian  Peninsula. 

From  London.  HalFs  Line  every  Wed.  to  Lisbon  (6  days;  fare  Bl.  6*., 
return  lOl.  IQc.),  Gibraltar  (TVs  days^  71  7«.,  ret.  12^  12«.),  Malaga  (11  days; 
82.  S«.,  ret.  151.  i6t.)y  and  Cadiz  (14 days;  92.  9«.,  ret.  161.  i5«.),  occasion- 
ally calline  also  at  Vigo  (3  days ;  6/.  (m.).  General  Steam  Navigation  Co. 
every  three  weeks  to  Oporto  (3  days;  il.  ii.,  ladies  10k.  extra).  Fenintular 
(nd  Oriental  Co.  weekly  and  Oriental  and  Pacific  Co.  fortnightly  to  Gibral- 
t*T  (4  days;  1st  cl.  10/.,  ret.  16/. ;  2nd  cl.  6/.,  ret.  10/.).  MacAndrevo  d: 
Oo.'t  eargO'Steamers,  with  room  for  a  few  passengers,  fortnightly  to  Seville 
(ca.  18  days;  10/.)  and  less  freqnently  to  Barcelona  (ca.  12  days;  12/.), 
caUiiu;  more  or  less  regularly  at  S.  Sebastian,  Bilbao,  and  Santander 
(lare  M.)»  Coninna,  Vigo,  and  Gijon  (6/.),  Malaga  and  Cadiz  (8/.),  Almeria 
(10/.),  Cartagena,  Valencia,  and  Alicante  (12/).  —  Fkom  Sodthampton. 

Bakdekeb's  Spain.  b 


xviii  STEAMBOATS. 

Ropal  Mail  Steam  Packet  Co.  every  aUernato  Wed.  to  Vigo  (18  hrb.;  1st 
cl.  6i.  10«.,  ret.  9/.  15*. ;  2nd  cl.  5i.)  and  Lisbon  (60  brs. ;  8«.,  ret.  12«.,  2nd 
cl.  5;.).  —  From  Liverpool.  Pacific  Steam  Navigation  Co.  fortnightly  to 
Vigo  (61.  10«..  4;.)  and  Lisbon  (8;.,  5;.).  SinglefiurWi  and  Booth^e  steamers 
monthly  to  Lisbon;  Cunard  Co.  and  Mou  Line  at  intervals  to  various  ports. 

Tlie  most  important  of  the  French  steamers  plying  to  the  penin- 
sula are  those  of  the  Compagme  Genirale  TraruatlcBniique,  leaving 
Marseilles  fortnightly  for  Malaga,  Gibraltar,  and  Tangier  (comp. 
p.  380).  —  American  travellers  may  sail  from  New  York  to  Gibral- 
tar by  one  of  the  fine  steamers  of  the  North  Oerman  Lloyd,  start- 
ing once  a  fortnight  (8-9  days;  fare  $  90-$  175)  and  going  on 
from  Gibraltar  to  Genoa  (agents  in  GibraltaT,  Onetti  ^  Sons,  En- 
gineer Lane).  The  opening  of  the  new  railway  from  Algeciras  to 
Bobadilla  (junction  for  Madrid,  Cordova,  Granada,  etc. ;  comp.  R.  40) 
makes  this  a  very  convenient  mode  of  entering  the  peninsula  for  the 
tourist  from  the  United  States  or  Canada.  —  German  steamers  nn 
to  various  Spanish  ports  from  Hamburg  and  Bremen.  — The  Spanish 
Coasting  Steamers,  generally  small  and  poorly  equipped,  are  duly 
mentioned  in  the  text  (comp.  pp.  252,  299,  380,  387,  435,  etc.). 

Tickets  should  be  taken  personally  from  the  agents  (eonsignatarioi). 
As  the  hoars  of  departure  are  very  uncertain,  especially  in  the  case  of 
the  less  important  lines,  it  is  well  to  defer  tliis  until  the  steamers  are 
actually  in  the  harbour.  Ladies  should  always  travel  in  the  saloon,  but 
gentlemen  of  modest  requirements  will  find  the  second  cabin  quite  en- 
durable. 

LuaoAGB  is  usually  free,  but  must  be  confined  to  articles  of  per- 
sonal use. 

The  Steward  expects  a  tip  of  Va-l  P*  P®'  d*y>  *iid  more  if  he  has 
to  perform  special  services  for  the  traveller. 

Embarkation  and  Disembarkation.  Among  the  disadvantages  of  a  sea- 
journey  to  Spain  are  the  annoyance  of  the  custom-house  formalities  (comp. 
ppi  zii,  xiii)  and  the  most  inadequate  arrangements  for  embarking  or 
disembarking.  The  steamboat  companies,  instead  of  providing  boats  for 
the  landing  or  at  least  insisting  on  some  decency  from  the  Spanish  boatmen 
(boter at), /wholly  abandon  their  helpless  passengers  to  the  insolence  and 
extortion  of  the  latter.  In  some  ports,  such  as  Gibraltar,  Cadiz,  and 
Malaga,  the  boatmen  are  absolutely  shameless  in  their  demands,  es- 
pecially in  bad  weather  or  if  the  passengers  are  ladies  travelling  alone. 
The  traveller  should  not  enter  the  boat  until  a  complete  understanding 
has  been  reached  as  to  the  inclusive  fare  for  himself  and  his  impedi- 
menta, and  he  should  never  pay  until  every  article  of  his  luggage  has 
been  safely  landed  on  the  deck  or  on  shore.  In  cases  of  dispute,  appli- 
cation may  be  made  to  the  Capitan  del  Puerto,  who  lives  at  the  harbour. 
■>-  Small  articles  may  be  kept  in  the  state-room,  but  trunks  are  deposited 
in  the  hold.  The  passenger  should  see  that  the  latter  are  properly 
labelled  for  their  destination. 

Cycling.  Cyclists  entering  Spain  obtain  a  pass  available  for 
six  months  on  payment  of  1  p.  and  a  deposit  of  84  c.  per  kilogramme 
on  the  weight  of  their  machines.  The  deposit  is  returned  if  the 
cyclist  leaves  the  country  within  the  prescribed  period.  Used  cycles 
are  admitted  into  Portugal  free  of  duty.  The  roads  vary  greatly ;  the 
best  are  to  the  N.  of  Madrid.  Cyclists  will  find  useful  hints  in  Mr. 
^  Mrs.  Workman's  'Sketches  awheel  in  Fin  de  Siecle  Iberia'  (Lon- 
don, 1897). 


xix 

IV.  Post  Otftoo.  Telegraph  Ottce. 

The  Foit  Offtoe  (Corrio)^  even  in  large  towns,  is  generally  open 
for  a  few  hours  only,  while  special  branches  of  business,  such  as  the 
distribution  of  poste  restante  letters  (cartas  en  Uata)  or  the  despatch 
of  registered  letters  (cartas  certificadas),  are  carried  on  at  different 
and  often-changed  parts  of  the  day.  Time  and  trouble  may,  there- 
fore,  be  spared  by  baying  one's  letters  addressed  to  a  hotel.  Ad- 
dresses should  be  short  and  simple  and  are  best  written  in  Spanish, 
with  the  words  Scnor  Don  (Senora  Dona)  before  the  proper  name 
(thus:  8enor  Don  Samuel  WelUr  ^  fidtel  de  Paris,  Sevilla,  Spain). 
The  affix  Esquire  should  be  omitted.  In  claiming  letters  at  the  post- 
office,  the  showing  of  a  visiting-card  (tarjeta)  is  much  more  effi- 
cacious than  a  verbal  utterance  of  the  name.  —  Stamps  (sellot)  are 
sold  by  tobacconists  only,  not  at  post-offices.  Letter-boxes  (Inadnes) 
are  to  be  found  only  at  the  post-office,  in  the  larger  hotels,  and 
at  tobacconists'.  Important  letters  should  be  posted  by  the  writer 
himself.  Registered  letters  must  be  sealed  on  the  back  with  five 
seals,  and  endorsed  with  the  name  and  address  of  the  sender. 

Tbe  Letter  Batb  for  the  town  of  posting,  Gibraltar,  and  Portugal  is 
10  e.  per  Vs  oz.  (16  grammes),  for  the  rest  of  Spain  and  Tangier  15  c,  for  the 
countries  of  the  postal  union  (para  el  extranjero)  25  c.  In  case  of  insufficient 
postage,  double  the  deficiency  is  charged.  —  Post  Cards  (iarjeta  postal) 
for  both  Spain  and  abroad  10  c;  for  Gibraltar  or  Portugal  5  c.  —  Printed 
Vjkm;B(impre»os)foT  Spain  1/40.  per  lOgr.,  abroad  5  c.  per  60 gr.  —  Cohmbr- 
CUL  Sakflss  (mueatras  de  eomercio)  5  e.  per  20  gr.,  abroad  5  c.  per  60  gr. 
—  Bbgistratioh  Fee  25  c.  —  Postal  money  orders  are  not  issued,  but 
Letters  of  Valub  (cartas  con  valores  declaretdos)  may  be  sent  to  Spanish 
and  foreign  addresses.  —  Registered  lelters  and  letters  with  valuables  are 
not  given  up  unless  the  addressee  shows  his  passport  or  is  identified  by 
two  witnesses  known  to  the  post-office  officials.  It  is,  therefore,  better 
to  have  letters  of  this  kind  sent  to  a  hotel.  —  The  postman  (eartero) 
receives  5  c.  for  every  Spanish  letter  he  delivers,  but  is  bound  to  leave 
foreign  letters  without  charge. 

Postal  Parcels  (paquetet  pottales)^  not  exceeding  7  lbs.  in  weight, 
may  be  sent  abroad  but  not  in  Spain.  Such  parcels  must  be  handed  in 
at  the  Despacho  Central  (p.  zvi)  of  the  railway. 

Telegrami  (Telegramas)  may  be  written  in  Spanish,  Portuguese, 
English,  French,  German,  or  Italian.  The  rate  for  a  domestic  tel- 
egram is  1  ^.  for  16  words,  and  10  c.  for  each  additional  word,  but 
only  half  that  rate  between  places  in  the  same  prorince.  Telegrams 
to  (Jreat  Britain  cost  46  c.  per  word,  Gibraltar  19,  Portugal  13, 
France  26,  Belgium  33,  Holland  38,  Switzerland  33,  Germany  33, 
Austria  and  Hungary  42,  Italy  36,  Sweden  47,  Russia 73,  Turkey  80  c, 
United  States  1  p.  60  c.  Words  of  more  than  15  letters  count  as 
two.  In  addition  to  the  rate  per  word  a  fee  of  6  0.  is  paid  on  each 
fweign  despatch,  and  it  is  advisable  to  take  a  receipt  (reciboj,  which 
costs  10  c.  Urgent  telegrams  (telSgramas  wrgentes),  taking  precedence 
of  all  others,  may  be  sent  for  thrice  the  ordinary  rates.  —  Telegrams 
are  paid  for  with  postage-stamps  (seWos,  see  above) ;  but  money  is 
accepted  at  railway-offices.  The  smaller  railway-stations  generally 
have  private  telegraph-offices  only,  the  rates  of  which  are  higher. 

b* 


V.  Hotels.  BeBtanrauts.  Beer  Hoases.  Cafis.  Cigani. 

Hotels  with  tlie  comfort  and  international  character  of  the  large 
flrst-class  hotels  in  the  leading  European  countries  do  not  exist  in 
Spain,  with  a  very  few  exceptions  in  such  towns  as  Madrid  or  Se- 
ville, and  hence  the  traveller  must  not  expect  too  much  from  the 
houses  advertised  by  their  landlords  as  *hotels  de  prim  era  clase'. 
In  most  of  the  frequented  resorts,  however,  there  are  now  very  fair 
hotels,  corresponding  to  the  hetter  second-class  houses  of  France  or 
Italy  i  their  proprietors  are  often  Italians  and  do  all  in  their  power 
to  satisfy  the  reasonable  requirements  of  foreign  guests.  The  uni- 
versal custom  is  to  charge  a  round  sum  per  day  for  room  and  full 
board  (as  on  the  ^American  plan'),  even  if  the  stay  does  not  exceed 
24  hours.  The  first  breakfast  is,  however,  often  charged  extra.  The 
food  is  generally  good  and  plentiful,  especially  at  dinner,  and  the 
bedrooms  are  clean  and  well  cared  for.  The  public  rooms  on  the 
other  hand  are  as  a  rule  small  and  uncomfortable,  and  in  many 
houses  there  is  no  general  sitting-room  at  all.  The  waiters  are  often 
Italians  and  sometimes  Germans.  English  and  French  are  generally 
understood  and  spoken  after  a  fashion.  —  In  the  smaller  towns  not 
specially  frequented  by  tourists  the  traveller  has  to  be  content  with 
unpretending  Fondas  of  a  genuine  Spanish  cast.  The  cuisine  in 
these  is  not  to  everyone's  taste;  the  equipment  and  cleanliness  of 
the  bedrooms  are  often  inadeqiiate  for  even  moderate  requirements; 
the  sanitary  arrangements  are  abominable;  the  servants  are  fre- 
quently lazy,  disobliging,  and  wholly  deaf  to  all  requests  involving 
the  slightest  deviation  from  the  usual  national  routine.  The  guests 
are  mainly  Spaniards,  whose  smoking  and  other  unprepossessing 
habits  at  table  must  be  endured  with  as  much  equanimity  as  pos- 
sible. The  charges  are,  of  course,  much  lower  than  in  the  large 
hotels.  —  On  a  similar  level  stand  the  Casas  de  HvAsptdes,  or  board- 
ing-houses, which  are  to  be  found  in  almost  every  town  and  are 
frequented  mainly  by  natives.  They  afford  a  good  Insight  into  the 
domestic  life  of  Spain,  but  that  and  their  inexpensiveness  are  their 
only  advantages.  Few  of  them  are  fit  for  foreign  ladies.  A  know- 
ledge of  Spanish  is  indispensable.  —  The  Posadas  in  the  towns 
and  the  Ventas  in  the  country  are  miserable  taverns  with  which  the 
tourist  need  have  nothing  to  do. 

At  most  railway-stations  the  trains  are  met  by  private  omnibuses 
(coches),  either  belonging  to  the  hotel,  in  which  case  a  charge  of 
V4"^V2  P-  is  made  in  the  bill,  or  to  a  livery-stable,  in  which  case 
the  fare  is  paid  direct  to  the  driver  or  guard  (V4~a  p-,  each  trunk 
V4"V2P«  >  bargaining  advisable).  In  the  larger  towns  the  traveller  may 
use  the  Omnibus  General  (p.  xvi)  or  a  cab  (cache  de  plaza^  or  de  pun- 
to),  both  of  which  have  the  advantage  of  enabling  the  traveller  to  drive 
from  house  to  house  until  he  finds  rooms  to  suit  him,  while  those 
who  arrive  in  the  hotel-omnibus  have  practically  to  take  what  is 


RESTAURANTS.  xxi 

offered  them.  In  each  ease  the  fare  should  he  agreed  upon  hefore 
starting.  If  desired,  luggage  may  be  deposited  at  the  despacho 
central  (p.  xvi)  until  rooms  are  secured. 

The  first  step  at  the  hotel  should  be  to  settle  with  the  landlord  or 
his  representative  on  the  dally  rate  (^cuanto  pago  por  diaf);  if  the  de- 
mand  seem  excessive,  a  lower  sum  may  be  offered  without  offonce.  In 
Madrid  the  rates  are  8-80  p.  per  day,  in  provincial  towns  6-16  p>;  in 
places  off  the  beaten  track  the  charge  is  sometimes  only  4-6  p.  The 
charge  varies  according  to  the  equipment  and  position  of  the  rooms;  those 
on  the  upper  floors  or  facing  the  court  are  usually  much  cheaper.  It 
should  be  noticed  that  in  Madrid  and  a  few  towns  of  N.  Spain  the  floors 
are  named  piHmer  piso^  pUo  principal^  and  pi$o  tegundo^  so  that  the  last 
is  equivalent  to  our  third  story.  —  The  repose  of  the  traveller  is  disturbed 
in  almost  all  Spanish  towns  by  the  cry  of  the  serine  or  night-watchman. 
Other  enemies  of  repose  may  be  repelled  by  Persian  or  Keating  s  Insect 
powder,  a  supply  of  which  should  be  brought  from  England.  In  Malaga, 
Seville,  and  other  parts  of  S.  Spain  the  Moaquitoe*  are  often  troublesome, 
and  the  traveller  should  be  careful  to  close  the  window  before  introduc- 
ing a  light  into  his  bedchamber.  In  the  best  hotels  the  beds  are  protected 
by  mosquito-nets  (mosqviUrc).  —  The  Spaniard  generally  takes  his  first 
breakfast  (de$aifuno)  in  his  own  room,  and  the  public  dining-room  is 
hardly  ready  for  visitors  till  somewhat  later  in  the  day.  The  dejeuner  or 
second  breakfast  (almvereo)^  consisting  of  eeg-dishes  and  one  or  two  kinds 
of  meat,  is  generally  ready  from  11  to  1.  Dinner  (comida)  is  usually 
served  at  6,  6.90.  or  7,  but  in  Castile  and  the  Basque  provinces  the  fa- 
vourite hour  is  8  p.m.  The  table-wine  (vino  eotnun  or  d«  me»a)^  generally 
Valdepenas  (p.  80l),  is  generally  palatable,  but  somewhat  heavy;  it  may 
be  mixed  with  seltzer-water.  The  ordinary  drinking-water  is  not  safe 
except  in  a  few  towns  supplied  with  proper  water-works.  —  A  few  English 
or  French  journals  will  usually  be  found  in  the  hotel  reading-rooms. 

The  guest's  departure  should  be  notified  in  good  time  at  the  office 
(de$pacho)y  as  otherwise  the  day  of  departure  may  be  reckoned  as  a  full 
day.  As  a  rule  no  allowance  is  made  for  absence  from  meals.  —  For 
fees,  comp.  p.  xxiv. 

The  following  expressions  may  be  found  useiul  in  dealing  with  the 
washerwoman  (la  pkmehadora) :  soiled  linen,  la  ropa  nicia ;  clean  linen, 
la  ropa  limpia;  shirt,  camUa;  night-shirt,  eamiia  dedormir;  collar,  cuillo; 
cuflB,  ptifhs;  under-shirt,  chemise,  camitita;  drawers,  caltotkdlloi ;  stock- 
ings, ealzetlna,  midim;  handkerchief,  pafivilo. 

Beitaurftntt.  Good  restaurants  are  found  only  in  a  few  of  the 
larger  towns ;  the  cuisine  is  generally  Spanish ,  but  occasioiuilly 
French.  The  traveller  need  not  now  fear  the  obtrusion  of  oil  or 
garlic,  except  in  very  out-of-the-way  places.  One  may  order  either 
a  regular  meal  (eomida  del  dia)  or  selected  dishes  (platosj  k  la  carte 
(lista).  Ordinary  table-wine  is  seldom  charged  for.  The  waiter 
(eamarero)  expects  a  tip  of  25  c.  The  traveller  should  count  his 
change.   The  following  is  a  list  of  the  ordinary  dishes. 

Ordubres,  hors  d'oeuvres.  Caldo^  broth. 

Tortilla,  omelette.  Cocido,  boiled  beef  (au  naturel). 

HtUvos,  eggs  (blandosj  boiled;  mny  Came,  meat. 

eoeidos ,  hard-boiled;  pasadot  por  FrUo,  fried  or  baked. 

agua,    soft-boiled;  fritot,    fried;  Asado,  roast. 

estrellados,  poached).  Asado  de  temera,  roast  veal. 

Sopa,  soup.  Ro^tif,  roast  beef. 

8opa  de  perboi,  soup  with  green  veg-  Biflec  *  la  parrilla,  broiled  steak. 

etables  and  bread.  ChiiUta  de  eerdo,  pork  chop. 

Sopa  de  arr6z,  rice  soup.  Camiro,  mutton. 


Ixii 


BEER  HOUSES.    OAF^S. 


.CordirOf  lamb. 

/Vomfrf'tf,  eold  meat. 

Leoffua^  tongue. 

RiUM^  kidney. 

BigadOy  liver. 

J?ucfMro  (or  Olla)^  a  stew  of  beef  or 
mutton,  bacon,  chicken,  garbanzos 
(see  below),  and  other  vegetables 
(the  national  dish  of  Spain). 

Boquerones^  baked  anchovies. 

Bacaiao,  ling  \  dried  cod. 

Lenffuddo^  sole. 

Salmdn^  salmon. 

Merlum^  a  kind  of  cod. 

Langotta,  lobster. 

LanffostinoBf  shrimps. 

Tntcha^  trout. 

Otircuy  oysters  (good  in  winter  only). 

JamAn  erudo^  raw  ham. 

Jamdn  en  dulce^  ham  cooked  in  sweet 
wine  (cold). 

SalcMchdn^  saa<--age. 

Pollo^  fowl. 

PatM),  turkey. 

Perdie^  partridge. 

PiiMn^  paldma^  pigeon. 

CodorMg^  quail. 

LegM>ru^  vegetables. 

PatdkUj  potatoes. 

Alcachofas,  artichokes. 

OuUdnteij  peas. 

Oarbanzos^  chick-peas  (a  national 
dish). 


Leni^as^  lentils. 

Btpdrragoi^  asparagus. 

Colifl&r^  cauliflower. 

Judioi^  habichuikUf  beans. 

Ifottdzay  mustard. 

Ajoj  garlic. 

Aeeite,  oil. 

Vindffre,  vinegar. 

AzfUar,  sugar. 

Sal,  salt. 

Pimiinta,  pepper. 

AceitihuM,  olives. 

Rdbanotj  radishes. 

FrvtOy  fruit. 

Ceretiu,  cherries. 

Fretat,  strawberries. 

Pera,  pear. 

ManzmMy  apple. 

AWarieoque,  apricot. 

Melocotdn,  peach. 

Uva$y  grapes. 

PosM,  raisins. 

Almsndrtu.  almonds. 

Meldn,  melon. 

LitMfn,  lemon. 

NarcKkfa,  orange. 

Pottres,  dessert. 

Pcm  frances  or  de   Viena,  French  or 

Vienna  bread. 
Manteca  de  vaca,  butter. 
Queso,  cheese. 
Vino,    wine    (dulce,    sweety    bianco, 

white  \  Unto,  red ;  generoao,  dessert). 


Beer  Homes  (Cervecerfas).  English  or  German  beer  on  draught 
is  found  only  at  a  few  seaports,  such  as  Barcelona  and  Valencia,  but 
bottled  beer  may  be  obtained  in  most  hotels  and  caftfs.  The  use  of 
Spanish  beer,  especially  in  summer,  is  almost  certain  to  produce 
diarrhoea  in  the  unacclimated  foreigner.  Excellent  and  refreshing 
summer-beverages,  such  as  horchata  (orgeat)  d^  chufas,  agrds,  ctgua 
de  cehada,  limdn  helado,  and  zarzaparriUa ,  are  furnished  by  the 
horchatertcu, 

Cafifli  except  at  Madrid  and  Barcelona,  are  usually  very  late  in 
opening  and  frequented  almost  entirely  in  the  afternoon  and  evening. 
They  are  often  deficient  in  comfort  and  cleanliness,  and  in  winter 
the  dense  clouds  of  tobacco  smoke  are  apt  to  he  unpleasant.  The 
waiter  (camarero)  expects  a  tip  of  10  c. 

Coffee  is  taken  either  with  milk  (ea/i  con  leche)  or  without  (cc^fi  iolo). 
The  favourite  drink  of  the  Spaniard  is,  however,  chocolate  (chocolate ;  & 
la  francesa,  with  whipped  cream).  Cows'  milk  (leche  de  vaca)  is  very  dear 
and  not  safe  unless  boiled.  Gjats*  milk  (leche  de  cobra)  is  much  more 
used  and  is  considered  very  wholesome,  but  it  is  apt  to  produce  diarrhoea 
in  the  unaccustomed  drinker.  The  caf^s  also  furnish  roUs  (panecilloe), 
biscuits  (bizcochot),  pastry  (bolloe)^  seltzer  water  (otfua  de  SeUt,  Hfdn), 
brandy  {copUa  de  comtc,  a  glass  of  brandy),  etc.  —  The  selection  of  ices 
is  large  (helado  de  lim&n,  freta,  vainilla,  etc.  \  50-75  c.  per  portion).  Ice 
is  Ttielo. 


CHURCHES,  MUSEUMS,  etc.  xxiil 

HewqpaMrs  (JhriMioot)  are  seUom  fornlsfaed  in  the  caM,  bat  may  be 

buaght  at  tne  entrance  or  from  tbe  newsboys  fasual  price  o  c).     The 
Madrid  papers  mentioned  at  p.  57  elrciUate  tbrougbout  the  whole  country. 

Tobaeoo  and  Cigars  are  a  monopoly  of  Government.  The  ordin- 
ary varieties  are  sold  in  the  so-called  EitancoSt  while  good  Havanna 
cigars  may  be  obtained  in  the  special  depots  of  the  company. 

The  domestic  cif^ars  (puro$  ptnitmtkiru)  sell  from  3  to  20  c.  apiece.  — 
Havannas  (ffabanos)  cost  from  25  c.  to  2  p.,  and  those  at  30  and  85  c.  are 
very  popniar.  —  The  cigars  from  the  Philippines  (Filipinos)  cost  6-60  c, 
those  chiefly  smoked  costing  20  or  25  c. 

OiffantUa  (Ciffarrillo$)  are  generally  very  strong.  Those  known  as  de 
Vahnda  coat  40-60  c.  a  packet  (ct^itaX  with  mouthpiece  (tmboquiUadot) 
50  c.  Those  from  Gaba  and  the  Philippines  cost  from  00  c.  a  packet 
upwards. 

Smotinff  Tobacco  (tdbaeo  picado;  hobra)  is  sold   at  40  c.   per  onnce. 

Wax  Matchu  (esriUat)  are  sold  at  all  tobacco  shops  (5-10  e.  per  box). 


YI.  ChnreliM.  Mnsenmi.  Shops. 
The  larger  Chnrelief  are  generally  open  till  11  or  i%  and  again 
after  3  p.  m. ;  some  are  open  all  day.  Many  of  the  smaller  churches, 
on  the  other  hand,  are  closed  for  the  day  at  8  or  9  a.  m.  The  stranger 
should  be  careful  not  to  distnrb  the  worshippers,  but  he  may  silently 
inspect  the  objects  of  interest  even  during  service,  provided  he 
avoids  the  altar  at  which  mass  is  actoally  being  said.  Many  of  the 
works  of  azt  are  in  closed  chapels  or  concealed  by  curtains,  but  the 
facrittano  will  show  these  for  a  fimall  gratuity  (p.  xxiv). 

Xuseuins  and  Picture  OsUeries  are  generally  open  on  week- 
days from  10  to  3,  but  most  of  them  are  closed  on  Sundays  and 
pnbhc  holidays.  Many  are  open  only  on  Sat.  or  some  other  week- 
day, but  the  stranger  will  usually  gain  admittance  at  other  times 
for  a  fee  fcomp.  p.  xii). 

Many  Shops  claim  to  have  fixed  prices  (pricios  fijos),  but  a  re- 
daction of  the  first  demand  will  generally  be  made,  especially  in 
purchases  of  considerable  value.  In  shops  not  advertising  fixed 
prices  the  traveller  should  never  offer  more  ihan  two -thirds  or 
three-fourths  of  the  price  asked  (regatear,  to  chaffer,  to  bargain), 
and  if  necessary  should  walk  quietly  out  of  the  place  without  buying. 
The  presence  of  valets  de  place  or  the  assistance  of  hotel-employees 
should  be  avoided,  as  they  invariably  receive  a  commission  that 
comes  ultimately  out  of  the  traveller's  pocket.  It  will,  however,  be 
found  advantageous  to  make  purchases  in  the  company  of  a  native 
acquaintance.  The  best  goods  come  mostly  from  abroad  and  are 
therefore  dear. 


xxlv 

YII.   Oratuities.   Guides.   Public  Security.  Beggars. 

Oratuities  are  not  customary  in  the  few  national  or  municipal 
collections  where  a  charge  is  made  for  admission,  but  in  all  other 
cases,  and  especially  in  private  galleries,  the  conserjes  expect  a  tip. 
The  custom  of  giving  fees  is,  indeed,  universal  in  Spain,  and  the 
traveller  need  never  fear  that  a  small  gratuity  will  be  taken  amiss. 
Drivers,  guides,  and  donkey-boys  all  look  as  a  matter  of  course  for 
a  small  pourboire  (propinaj  in  addition  to  the  charge  agreed  on,  and 
this  may  vary  from  25  c.  to  1  p.  or  more  according  to  the  nature 
of  their  services.  In  museums  a  fee  of  ^/^-i  p.  is  enough  for  two 
persons,  while  double  should  be  given  for  a  party  of  three  or  four. 
In  churches  the  sacristan  expects  26-50  c.  for  such  small  services  as 
drawing  curtains  or  opening  locked  doors,  but  more  (V2-IV2PO  ^^^ 
more  protracted  attendance. 

In  the  better  hotels  the  gratuities  may  be  reckoned  at  about  1  p. 
per  day  for  each  person.  Half  of  this  should  be  given  to  the  head- 
waiter,  while  the  other  half  should  be  divided  equally  between  the 
bedroom-waiter  or  chambermaid  (muehacha)  and  the  'boots'  (mozo). 
The  portier  (portero)  need  not  be  tipped  unless  he  has  performed 
some  special  service  for  the  visitor.  In  smaller  hotels  and  in  the 
country  60-76  c.  per  day  is  enough. 

Onides  (el  guia^  guiaa)  are  superfluous  for  most  travellers.  None 
should  be  employed  except  those  recommended  at  the  hotels.  Pur- 
chases should  never  be  made  in  their  presence  (p.  xxiii),  and  it  is 
better  to  make  bargains  with  drivers  and  the  like  without  their 
assistance.   Their  pay  is  about  5  p.  per  day. 

Public  Security  in  the  towns  of  Spain  is  on  the  same  level  as 
in  most  other  parts  of  Europe.  For  excursions  into  the  interior,  es- 
pecially in  S.  Spain,  it  is  advisable  to  make  previous  inquiries  at 
the  barracks  of  the  gendarmes  (Casa  Cuartel  del  Oiuxrdia  Civil)  as  to 
the  safety  of  the  route.  The  Qu&rdia  Civil  (dark-blue  coat  with  red 
facings  and  a  three-cornered  hat)  is  a  select  body  of  fine  and 
thoroughly  trustworthy  men,  whose  duties  resemble  those  of  the 
Irish  Constabulary.  They  have  succeeded  in  making  highway  rob- 
bery (handolerismo)  practically  a  thing  of  the  past,  and  the  stranger 
may  place  implicit  confidence  in  them.  On  the  other  hand  it  is 
seldom  advisable  to  call  in  the  help  of  the  ordinary  police  (Ouardia 
Municipal,  Quwrdia  de  Orden  Publico).  In  the  case  of  a  riot  or  other 
popular  disturbance,  the  stranger  should  get  out  of  the  way  as 
quickly  as  possible,  as  the  careful  policemen,  in  order  to  prevent 
the  escape  of  the  guilty,  are  apt  to  arrest  anyone  they  can  lay  their 
hands  on.  If  the  stranger  himself  is  the  victim  of  an  accident,  he 
can  hardly  count  upon  help,  so  universal  is  the  fear  of  arrest.  — 
A  special  licence  is  necessary  for  carrying  weapons. 

Begging  is  the  national  pest  of  Spain.  Innumerable  practi- 
tioners of  this  art  beg  from  pure  laziness,  finding  it  an  easy  and 


INTERCOURSE  WITH  THE  PEOPLE.  xxv 

profitable  profession ;  others  beg  to  pass  the  time ;  many  do  so  for 
charitable  purposes;  and  there  are  but  few  who  beg  from  the  pres- 
sure of  real  necessity.  Beggars  accost  the  stranger  on  the*  streets, 
follow  him  into  shops,  caf^s,  and  hotels,  and  sit  in  swarms  at  all 
chnrch-doors.  In  Valencia  and  S.  Spain  they  even  besiege  the 
railway  tieket-offlces  and  the  passing  trains  at  wayside  stations.  In 
many  cases  the  traveller  is  almost  forced  to  part  with  a  few  coppers 
in  order  to  enjoy  the  view  or  the  work  of  art  without  molestation ; 
but  as  a  general  rule  beggars  should  be  as  far  as  possible  ignored. 
Nothing  should  ever  be  given  to  children. 

Ym.  Interconne  with  the  People. 

In  educated  circles,  particularly  in  S.  Spaiu,  the  stranger  is  at 
first  apt  to  be  carried  away  by  the  lively,  cheerful,  and  obliging 
tone  of  society,  by  the  charming  spontaneity  of  manner,  and  by 
the  somewhat  exaggerated  politeness  of  the  people  he  meets.  He 
should,  however,  avoid  turning  the  conversation  on  serious  matters, 
and  should  above  all  refrain  from  expressing  an  opinion  on  religious 
or  political  questions.  The  national  pride  of  the  Spaniard  and  his 
ignorance  of  foreign  conditions  render  a  collision  in  such  cases  al- 
most inevitable.  The  stranger  should  confine  himself  to  the  r6le  of 
an  uncritical  and  amiable  visitor. 

The  Spaniard  of  the  lower  classes  is  not  devoid  of  national  pride, 
but  he  possesses  much  more  common  sense  and  a  much  healthier 
dislike  of  humbug  than  his  so-called  superiors.  The  tactful  stranger 
will  not  find  it  difficult  to  get  into  touch  with  him.  Two  points, 
however,  must  be  carefully  remembered.  In  the  first  place  it  is 
necessary  to  maintain  a  certain  courtesy  of  manner  towards  even  the 
humblest  individual,  who  always  expects  to  be  treated  as  a  *cabal- 
Mro\  In  the  second  place  the  traveller,  while  maintaining  his 
rights  with  quiet  decision,  should  avoid  all  rudeness  or  roughness, 
which  simply  serves  to  excite  the  inflammable  passions  of  the  un- 
educated Spaniard.  Common  intercourse  in  Spain  is  marked  by  a 
degree  of  liberty  and  equality  which  the  American  will  find  easier 
to  understand  than  the  European,  to  whom  the  extreme  independ- 
ence of  the  middle  and  lower  classes,  as  exemplified,  f.  g.^  in  the 
demeanour  of  shop-keepers,  will  often  seem  to  border  on  positive 
incivility. 

The  traveller  has  to  rely  more  on  himself  in  Spain  than  in  al- 
most any  other  country  of  Europe.  Full  and  accurate  information 
as  to  means  of  communication,  the  postal  arrangements,  the  hours 
&t  which  galleries  and  museums  are  open,  and  the  like  can  seldom 
he  obtained  even  in  the  hotel-offices.  Waiters,  portiers,  and  other 
servants  are  of  absolutely  no  use  in  this  matter,  partly  owing  to 
their  illiteracy  and  partly  to  their  complete  indifference  to  anything 
beyond  their  own  particular  sphere.  Enquiries  in  the  street,  unless 
of  the  very  simplest  nature,  should  be  made  only  to  well-dressed 


xxvi  THEATRES. 

people.  It  is  desirable  to  avoid  all  contact  with  the  members  of 
the  lowest  class,  who  haunt  the  footsteps  of  the  stranger  in  towns 
like  Bnrgos,  Avila,  Toledo,  and  Granada,  offering  their  advice  and 
services  as  guides.  Children  who  act  in  this  manner  should  be 
ignored  or  answered  simply  with  *anda'  (go  away).  Though  the 
ordinary  man  in  Spain  has  a  very  clear  notion  of  right  and  wrong 
and  is  as  a  rule  fairly  l^onest  and  honourable,  it  is  better  not  to 
trust  to  the  sense  of  justice  of  cabmen  and  the  like.  In  all  cases, 
even  where  there  is  a  fixed  tariff,  it  is  advisable  to  come  to  a  clear 
understanding  beforehand.  The  gratuity  should  not  be  forgotten  at 
the  end  of  the  trip  (p.  xxiv). 

An  interesting  report  published  by  the  Spanish  government  in  1896 
shows  that,  in  a  population  of  about  19,000,003,  no  fewer  than  8,727,519 
persons  profess  no  occupation.  Agriculture  employs  4,033,491  men  and 
828,631  women.  There  are  97,257  active  officials  and  64,000  on  the  retired 
list,  41,564  schoolmasters  or  teachera  (of  whom  19,9U)  are  females),  90,179 
medical  doctors,  91,227  mendicants  (of  whom  51,948  are  females),  43,328 
members  of  the  clergy,  and  28,549  nuns.  The  number  of  absolutely  un- 
lettered perjon-j  is  6,101,470,  including  2,686,616  females. 

IX.  Theatres.  Bull  Fights.  Juego  de  Felota. 

Theatres.  In  the  larger  theatres  the  performance  generally  lasts 
from  8  or  8.30  p.m.  to  midnight.  A  few  small  theatres  in  Madrid, 
Barcelona,  Seville,  and  some  other  places  give  only  *hour  pieces' 
(funciones  por  hora)^  short  popular  pieces  with  songs  (zarzuelas)^ 
operettas,  farces,  and  the  like.  The  piece  and  the  audience  are 
both  changed  at  9,  10,  and  11  p.m.,  and  thus  several  theatres  of 
this  kind  may  be  visited  on  the  same  evening.  Tickets  are  usually 
bought  at  the  despacho  on  entering,  but  some  of  the  larger  theatres 
have  also  a  box-office  (contaduria),  where  tickets  may  be  bought 
beforehand  at  an  advanced  price.  In  many  oases  an  entrance-ticket 
(entrada)  must  be  obtained  as  well  as  that  for  the  particular  seat. 
Gentlemen  usually  frequent  the  parquet  (butdcia),  which  is  also 
quite  comme  il  faut  for  ladies.  Parties  of  3-4  or  more  may  take  a  box 
(palco).  Only  a  few  of  the  most  fashionable  theatres  have  a  cloak 
room  or  *garderobe'.  — The  Spaniard  is  passionately  fond  of  the 
theatre,  but  absolute  quiet  is  seldom  observed  during  musical  per- 
formances. In  some  of  the  smaller  provincial  theatres  smoking  goes 
on  the  whole  evening.  The  intervals  between  the  acts  are  apt  to 
be  very  long. 

Bull  Fights  were  instituted  for  the  encouragement  of  proficiency 
in  the  use  of  martial  weapons  and  for  the  celebration  of  festal  oc- 
casions, and  were  a  prerogative  of  the  aristocracy  down  to  the  16th 
century.  As  the  mounted  Caballero  encountered  the  bull  armed 
only  with  a  lance,  accidents  were  very  frequent.  No  less  than  ten 
knights  lost  their  liveis  at  a  single  Fiesta  de  Toros  in  1512.  The 
present  form  of  the  sport,  so  much  less  dangerous  for  the  man  and 


BULL  FIGHTS.  xxvii 

80  mueh  more  erael  for  the  beast,  was  adopted  about  the  beginning 
of  the  17th  eentary.  The  eenstruetion,  in  1749,  of  the  flret  great 
Pkaa  de  Toros  in  Madrid  definitely  conYerted  the  onoe  chivalrous 
sport  into  a  public  spectacle,  in  which  none  took  part  but  profes- 
sional Torsos.  In  Central  and  S.  Spain  bull -fights  (CorHdaa  de 
Toro$)  are  now  held  on  eyery  Sunday  and  holiday  from  Easter 
till  November.  Those  held  during  the  dog-days  and  after  the 
middle  of  October  are,  however,  the  so-called  NooiUddaay  an  in- 
ferior and  espeeially  brutal  yariety  of  the  sport,  taken  part  in  by 
young  bulls  (fwviUos)  and  inexperienced  fighters  and  attended  only 
by  the  lower  classes.  In  N.  Spain  and  Catalonia,  where  trade  and 
industry  flourish,  bull-fights  are  held  only  on  a  few  special  festiyals 
and  during  the  annual  fair  (fSria),  The  total  number  of  *Plazas  de 
Toios'  in  Spain  is  now  about  220,  and  in  these,  during  the  season  of 
1896,  were  held  478  fights.  No  fewer  than  1218  bulls,  valued  at 
60,000^.,  and  5730  horses,  valued  at  20,000^.,  were  killed  during 
the  exhibition. 

The  Bull  Ring  is  generally  of  the  shape  its  name  indicates.  The 
arena  (redondel)  is  separated  from  the  seats  of  the  spectators  by  a 
wooden  barrier  about  5  ft.  high,  behind  which  runs  a  narrow  passage. 
The  front  and  exposed  rows  of  seats  are  named  AaiintoB  de  fiarr^ra, 
de  Conlraharriraj  and  de  TendCdo,  The  upper  and  protected  rows 
are  called  OradaSy  and  are  divided  into  DelanUras  and  AsUntos  de 
Grada.  Above  the  gradas  are  the  Palcos  (boxes)  and  the  Andanddas, 
The  gradas  are  the  best  places  for  gentlemen.  "When  ladies  are  of 
the  party  it  is  advisable  to  sit  either  in  a  palco  or  in  the  delanteras 
de  grada,  as  exit  is  then  possible  at  any  moment  without  attracting 
attention.  The  yisitor  should  be  careful  to  secure  a  ticket  for  the 
shady  side  of  the  arena  (boletm  de  aombra).  —  Each  bull -ring  has 
an  hospital  for  the  wounded,  and  most  also  have  a  chapel,  where 
the  fighters  prepare  for  the  combat  by  prayer  and  partaking  of  the 
Holy  Eucharist. 

Most  of  the  Bulls  are  reared  in  Andalusian  establishments 
(vaeddasj,  those  of  the  Duke  of  Ver£gua  and  Sefior  Mittra  having 
the  greatest  reputation  at  present.  They  must  not  be  more  than 
five  years  old.  Their  value  is  from  1000  to  1500  p.  (40-60«.).  From 
their  pastures  they  are  either  sent  to  their  destination  in  cages  by 
railway  or  are  driven  along  the  highroad  with  the  aid  of  trained 
oxen  (eahestroB),  At  the  ring  they  are  kept  and  fed  in  open  eorrdtes 
or  yaids.  About  4  or  6  hours  before  the  exhibition  they  are  placed 
in  the  dark  Torile$  adjoining  the  arena,  whence  they  are  finally 
driven  into  the  ring,  wearing  the  badge  (devisa)  of  their  breeder 
and  goaded  into  as  great  a  state  of  excitement  as  possible.  —  The 
Bull  Fightbks,  like  their  victims,  are  usually  Andalusians  and  are 
recruited  almost  entirely  from  the  rural  population.  Outside  the 
ring  they  are  recognizable  by  the  short  pig-tail  in  which  they  wear 
their  hair.   The  annual  income  of  an  expert  amounts  to  8*15,000 


xxviii  BULL  FIGHTS. 

pesetas,  and  a  popular  Etpada  will  Bometimes  clear  ten  or  eYen 
twenty  times  as  much.  Thus  Rafa£l  Guerra,  born  at  Cordova  in 
1862,  killed  225  bulls  in  the  season  (temporada)  of  1894  and  netted 
no  less  than  76,000  duros  (15,000^). 

The  buU-flghts  are  held  under  the  superintendence  of  some 
provincial  or  municipal  official,  who  gives  the  signal  to  start  with 
a  handkerchief.  The  AlguaeiUs  (police-officers)  then  ride  into  the 
arena,  clad  in  an  old  Spanish  dress  and  accompanied  by  the  sound 
of  drums  and  trumpets,  and  drive  the  people  to  their  seats.  They 
are  followed  by  the  brilliant  processional  entrance  of  the  bull-fighters 
(Fateo  de  la  CuadriUa)^  during  which  the  band  plays  a  military 
march.  At  the  head  of  the  procession  walk  the  EipddtUf  with  the 
Sobreaaliinte  who  takes  their  place  in  case  of  accident ;  afterwards 
come  the  Banderilleros^  the  mounted  Picaddres,  and  the  attendants 
on  foot  (Chulos  or  Monot),  with  the  team  of  mules  used  in  dragging 
off  the  dead  horses  and  bulls.  After  greeting  the  president  the 
supernumerary  fighters  retire,  while  the  others  retain  their  places. 
The  president  throws  the  key  of  the  toril  into  the  ring;  an  algnacil 
picks  it  up  and  hands  it  to  the  Torilero;  the  torilero  opens  the 
den ;  and  the  bull  dashes  into  the  arena. 

The  Fight  (Lidia)  consists  of  three  parts  (SuSrtes).  In  the 
8uerte  de  Picdr,  or  first  act,  the  picad6res  receive  the  charge  of  the 
bull,  prod  him  in  the  neck  with  their  pike  (garr(Scha)j  and  endea- 
vour to  withstand  his  onset  with  their  whole  strength.  In  most 
cases,  however,  the  worn-out  old  hack  which  the  picador  bestrides 
is  cruelly  wounded  by  the  bull  and  overthrown  with  his  rider  in 
the  sand.  To  avoid  more  serious  consequences  the  chulos  attract 
the  attention  of  the  bull  by  dexterous  waving  of  their  cloaks  (eapio) 
and  so  draw  him  off  to  the  other  side  of  the  ring.  When  the  bull 
has  been  sufficiently  wearied  (eastigado)  by  the  picadores,  the 
Suerte  de  Banderilledr\  or  second  act,  begins.  The  banderilWros 
meet  the  bull  in  full  charge,  jump  cleverly  to  one  side  as  he  nears 
them,  and  stick  the  banderillas  in  his  neck  as  he  passes.  If  pursued 
too  closely  by  the  Infuriated  animal,  they  escape  by  springing  over 
the  barrier.  The  banderillas  are  barbed  darts,  ornamented  with 
streamers  of  coloured  paper.  Usually  they  are  about  30  inches 
long,  but  the  banderillas  d  cuarta  are  just  one-fifth  of  this.  The 
planting  (paredr)  of  the  banderillas  takes  place  from  the  side  (al 
cuartio  or  aesgo)  or  de  frente  (from  the  front).  The  most  dangerous 
modes,  especially  when  the  short  darts  are  used,  is  when  the  bande- 
rillero  stands  still  (al  quiebro)  or  even  sits  in  a  chair  (ensilla)  until  the 
darts  are  planted.  ^Cowardly'  or  *sluggish'  bulls  are  'enlivened'  by 
banderillas  provided  with  explosive  crackers  (de  fuego).  Unusually 
'brave'  or  vicious  bulls  are  tired  out  by  all  kinds  of  manceuvres  with 
the  cloak  (florSoaJy  or  the  performers  leap  between  his  horns  (al 
trascuemo)  or  vault  over  his  back  with  a  pole  (de  la  garroeha).  When 
this  has  lasted  long  enough,  the  president  gives  the  signal  for  the 


JTJEGO  DE  PELOTA.  xxix 

Suerte  de  Matdr^  the  third  and  last  act  of  the  drama.  The  Egpada, 
armed  with  a  red  cloth  (muUta)  and  a  Bword  (est6que)^  approaches  the 
hox  of  the  president  and  dedicates  to  him  the  death  of  the  bull  (brk^ 
ddr).  He  then  teases  the  bull  by  waying  the  cloth  and  endeavours  by 
various  devices  (pases  natvreUea^  tUtos^  depeehoy  reddndo$y  eambiadot^ 
etc.)  to  get  it  Into  the  proper  position  for  the  death-blow  (atocdda). 
The  usual  method  is  termed  d  volapU;  the  Espada  meets  the  rush 
of  the  bull,  steps  nimbly  aside  at  the  proper  moment,  and  plunges 
the' sword  downwards  through  the  animars  neck  into  its  heart.  If 
this  stroke  is  properly  dealt,  the  bull  falls  at  once,  but  it  seldom 
succeeds  at  the  first  attempt.  Another  mode  is  the  so-called  re- 
dbiendo,  in  which  the  Espada  receives  the  bull  standing  and  allows 
it  to  run  on  the  point  of  the  sword.  The  eot^  de  grace  is  given  to 
the  fallen  animal  by  a  PuntilUro^  who  pierces  the  spinal  marrow 
with  a  dagger.  The  dead  bull  and  horses  are  dragged  out  by  teams 
of  mules  iTith  jingling  bells,  the  traces  of  blood  are  covered  up 
with  fresh  sand,  and  the  show  begins  again  with  a  fresh  bull. 
Generally  six  or  eight  bulls  are  disposed  of  before  twilight  puts  an 
end  to  the  sport. 

All  attempts  to  abolish  bull-fighting  have  been  vain.  Neither 
pope  nor  clergy,  neither  monarchy  nor  republic  has  been  able  to 
eradicate  this  passion  of  the  Spanish  people.  It  is  bound  to  endure, 
until  a  general  elevation  of  the  standard  of  public  taste  and  morals 
rebels  against  the  brutal  and  bloody  spectacle. 

Many  visitors  will  agree  with  Mr.  Finck,  who  writes :  *Six  bulls 
were  to  be  killed ;  I  left  after  the  third  had  been  butchered,  and 
his  carcass  dragged  out  by  the  mules  —  equally  disgusted  and 
bored;  and  nothing  could  ever  induce  me  to  attend  another j  not 
only  because  of  its  brutal  and  cruel  character,  but  because  it  is  the 
most  unsportsmanlike  and  cowardly  spectacle  I  have  ever  seen\ 
And  again:  *No  man  who  has  a  sense  of  true  sport  would  engage 
with  a  dozen  other  men  against  a  brute  that  is  so  stupid  as  to  expend 
its  fury  a  hundred  times  in  succession  on  a  piece  of  red  cloth,  ignor- 
ing the  man  who  holds  it'. 

The  ^Literatnra  Taurfna'  is  very  extensive.  Among  the  best  books 
on  the  subject  are  Moratin'M  *Origen  y  Progreso  de  las  Fiestas  de  Toros\ 
BedoycCt  ^ffistoria  del  Toreo'',  Sanchez  de  Neira't  'Diccionario  Taur6mico\ 
and  the  ^Annates  del  Tor^o'  of  Velazquez  y  Sanchez.  In  'Wild  Spain',  by 
A.  Chapman  and  W.  T.  Buck,  a  chapter  is  devoted  to  bull- fighting.  —  The 
most  widely  read  journals  devoted  to  bull-fighting  are  El  Torio.  El  Endno^ 
and  La  Lidia,  all  published  at  Madrid  ^  the  last  is  admirably  illustrated. 
Leopoldo  Vdtqftet''z  'Beglamento  vigente  para  las  Corridas  de  Toro'*  gives 
the  official  regulations  of  bnll-fighting  in  the  province  of  Madrid.  —  En 
Las  AmUu  del  Toro,  Pan  y  Toroe^  Pepe  Hillo^  and  El  Padrino  del  Nono  are 
four  popular  plays  relating  to  buU-ftghting. 

The  Jnego  de  Pelota,  or  ball-game  of  the  Basques  (comp.  pp.  3, 
4),  is  an  interesting  form  of  sport  which  the  stranger  should  not  fail 
to  see.  Since  the  beginning  of  this  century  it  has  almost  ceased 
to  be  played  as  a  village  game,  and  it  is  now  known  mainly  in  the 


XXX  CLIMATE. 

fonn  of  a  public  spectacle  given  by  professional  players  (pHotdris). 
It  is  played  in  Navarre,  Catalonia,  and  Madrid  as  well  as  in  the 
Basque  Provinces;  but  tlie  police  restrictions  on  tbe  amount  of 
betting  allowed  to  the  spectators  bave,  from  the  Spanish  point  of 
view,  robbed  the  game  of  most  of  its  charm.  The  game  belongs  in 
a  broad  general  way  to  the  tennis  family  and  has  its  nearest  analogue 
in  the  pallone  of  the  Italians.  It  is  played  in  large  halls  called 
frorUdnes,  36  ft.  wide  and  210-260  ft.  long.  One  side  of  the  hall, 
which  is  often  roofless,  is  occupied  by  the  court  (concha)  and' its 
annex  (contracancha)j  while  the  other  side  and  one  end  are  occu- 
pied by  the  seats  for  the  spectators.  The  connoisseurs  and  experts 
alTect  the  seats  in  the  contracancha,  behind  the  umpires,  but  strangers 
should  select  the  entremelos  or  palcoa.  Each  side  or  party  (bandoj, 
distinguished  by  its  colour  (red  or  white),  consists  of  a  delantero, 
or  forward,  and  two  zagueroa^  or  backs.  Each  player  wears  a  kind 
of  cestus  (cesta)  on  his  right  hand',  attached  to  a  leathern  gauntlet. 
The  balls  are  of  indiarubber,  covered  with  leather,  and  weigh  120 
grammes  (rather' over  4  oz.).  The  serve  is  termed  el  sdque.  The 
delant^r9  strikes  the  ball  against  the  high  wall  bounding  one  side 
of  the  court,  in  such  a  way  that  it  rebounds  within  a  given  area  on 
the  other  side  of  the  net.  One  of  the  opposite  zagu^ros  drives  it 
back  in  the  same  fashion,  and  so  on  da  capo.  Each  failure  counts  a 
point  (tanto)  to  the  opponents,  and  the  side  first  making  the  required 
number  of  tantos  wins.  The  scores  are  marked  on  the  wall  of  the 
contrecancha.    The  players  are  invariably  Basques  or  Navarrese. 

Details  will  be  found  in  *La  Peldta  y  loa  Pelotaris'  by  P(^a  y  Oo9ii 
(1892),  the  'Teori'a  del  Juego  de Peldta'  by  j: (1893),  and  'ElJuegode  Pelota' 
by  Mirallag  (1893). 

Cock  Tighting  (Combdtes  or  Rina8  de  Gallos,  Funciones  Qallis- 
ticasJnB  also  popular  in  Spain,  especially  among  the  less  reputable 
classes,  but  it  is  attended  by  so  much  disgusting  brutality  that  the 
tourist  is  advised  to  have  nothing  to  do  with  it. 

X.  Climate  and  Health.    Physicians  and  Chemists. 

Climate.  As  in  population,  configuration  of  soil,  and  character 
of  scenery,  so  also  in  climate  the  Iberian  Peninsula  shows  the  most 
striking  contrasts.  The  central  plateau,  surrounded  by  mountains, 
has,  as  indicated  at  pp.  26,  62,  all  the  characteristics  of  a  con- 
tinental climate  :  cold  winters  and  hot  summers,  great  variations 
in  temperature,  little  rain  or  moisture.  The  mean  annual  tem- 
perature of  Madrid  is  66«  Fahr.  TLondon  49.5<»,  New  York  52.9«) ;  the 
mean  temperature  of  Jan.  is  40**,  of  July  76®.  The  lowest  tem- 
perature on  record  is  12°  (20*^  below  freezing-point),  the  highest  111°. 
The  annual  rainfall  of  Madrid  is  15  inches  (London  241/2?  New  York 
41i/2)>  t^at  of  Salamanca  11  inches. 

In  the  basin  of  the  Ebro  the  variations  of  temperature  are  less 
violent.    Saragossa  has  a  mean  temperature  of  68®,  with  a  min- 


CLIMATE.  xxxi 

imum  of  .19®  and  a  maximum  of  106**.  The  rainfall  (comp.  p.  160) 
is  also  inoonsiderable. 

The  climate  of  the  Gataloniaii  and  Valencian  shore  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean is  probably  the  most  delightful  in  the  peninsula.  The  winter 
heat  resembles  that  of  theLigurianRiTierato  theE.  and  W.  of  Genoa, 
but  raw  winds,  snow,  and  night-firosts  are  even  more  rare  and  the 
variations  of  temperature  are  less  extreme.  The  amount  of  sun- 
shine is,  however,  considerably  less.  The  heat  of  summer  is  tem- 
pered by  the  sea-breezes,  and  the  rainfall  is  equably  divided  among 
the  different  seasons.  The  average  annual  temperature  of  Barcelona 
is  GO^Fahr.  (Nice,  61®);  that  of  the  three  winter  months  (Dec, 
Jan.,  Feb.)  is  49®  (Nice  48®,  San  Remo  60®),  and  that  of  the 
summer  months  (July,  Aug.,  Sept.)  is  73®.  The  mean  relative 
humidity  is  69  and  the  rainfall  is  30  inches  (San  Remo,  27 '/s  inches). 
The  number  of  rainy  days  is  69  (San  Remo  52 ;  England  161),  of 
cloQdy  days  75  (San  Remo  58),  of  cloudless  days  143  (San  Remo,  152). 
In  Valencia  the  annual  mean  of  the  three  winter  months  is  52®. 

From  the  Pyrenees  to  Gape  Oata,  both  on  the  Mediterranean 
coast  and  in  Portugal  (comp.  p.  463),  the  rainfall  steadily  diminishes 
from  N.  to  S.  Valencia  has  47.3  rainy  days,  with  a  precipitation  of 
19  inches,  AUeante  has  38.6  rainy  days  and  a  precipitation  of  16  inches, 
and  at  Mureia  the  fall  is  only  14  inches.  The  kingdom  of  Murcia 
(p.  243),  the  only  genuine  palm-growing  country  in  Europe,  has  a 
truly  African  climate.  In  the  town  of  Miweiaihe  annual  mean  tem- 
perature is  62®,  while  the  summer  heat  rises  to  112®.  The  air  here 
is  of  astonishing  dryness  (mean  annual  humidity  60  per  cent),  and 
the  winter  sky  is  noted  for  its  unclouded  blue. 

The  Mediterranean  coast  of  S.  Spain,  from  Cape  Oata  to  the  Straits 
of  Gibraltar,  has,  thanks  to  its  sheltered  position  at  the  S.  base 
of  a  lofty  range  of  mountains,  the  mildest  winter  climate  in  the 
continent  of  Europe.  The  luxuriance  of  its  vegetation  and  the  pre- 
sence of  the  sugar  cane  give  it  an  almost  tropical  character.  The 
mean  annual  temperature  of  Malaga  is  65®Fahr.,  that  of  summer  77®, 
that  of  winter  66®.  The  range  is  from  32®  to  110®.  The  variations 
of  temperature  are  much  less  violent  than  on  the  E.  ooast,  the  average 
dally  range  of  a  winter's  day  amounting  to  only  14®,  as  compared 
with  23®  at  Alicante.  The  mean  relative  humidity  is  66.  The  number 
of  rainy  days  is  52V2  (precipitation  22  inches);  only  40  days  in  the 
year  are  overcast,  while  195  are  wholly  cloudless. 

On  the  Atlantic  coast  of  Andalusia  the  summer  is  cooler  and 
the  mean  annual  temperature  is  thus  somewhat  lower  (Tarifa  63®). 
The  precipitation  in  San  Fernando  is  28V2  inches,  In  Huelva  I78/4 
inches,  in  Rio  Tinto  25  inches.  The  summer  heat  increases  as  we 
proceed  from  the  coast  into  the  interior.  Seville  has  a  mean  sum- 
mer temperature  of  80®  and  a  maximum  of  117®,  while  the 
climate  of  Ecija  has  earned  for  it  the  name  of  La  SarUn,  or  the 
firying-pan. 


xxxii  CLIMATE. 

A  very  different  set  of  conditions  preTails  on  the  N.  coast  of 
Spain ,  from  the  Pyrenees  to  Galicia  (comp.  p.  2).  The  rainfall, 
"which  is  by  no  means  confined  as  in  the  S.  to  the  cool  seasons, 
rises  from  43  inches  at  Bilbdo  and  59  inches  at  San  Sebastian  to 
65  Inches  at  Santiago.  Bilbao  has  163  rainy  days ;  Ooiedo,  where 
the  mean  relative  humidity  is 81.6,  has  only  52  cloudless  days  in  the 
year.  With  the  exception  of  a  few  days  when  a  hot  wind  blows,  the 
N.  provinces  enjoy  a  cool  and  agreeable  summer.  The  average 
summer  temperature  of  San  Sebastian  (67**)  is  not  so  very  much 
higher  than  that  of  the  S.  of  England  (Totnes  61®),  while  its  winter 
climate  is  little  colder  than  that  of  Catalonia. 

While  the  N.  coast  thus  offers  the  best  summer-quarters  for  those 
in  search  of  relief  from  the  heat,  the  Mediterranean  coast  of  Spain 
may  be  strongly  recommended  as  a  winter-resort.  Unfortunately, 
however,  the  climatic  advantages  of  such  places  as  Alicanley  Alme- 
ria,  and  Malaga  are  largely  counterbalanced  by  their  dirt,  dust,  and 
general  lack  of  comforts.  An  increase  in  the  number  of  foreign 
visitors  is  the  surest  way  to  bring  about  a  change  for  the  better. 

In  the  interior  of  Spain  the  visitor  from  N.  Europe  should  alter 
many  of  his  customs,  without  indiscriminatingly  adopting  the  habits 
of  the  natives.  In  particular  he  should  be  careful  to  wear  somewhat 
warmer  clothing  than  he  would  in  similar  temperatures  at  home. 
In  winter  he  should  never  go  out  without  an  overcoat  and  should 
never  fail  to  put  it  on  at  sunset.  In  the  towns  lying  near  the  sierras 
a  cold  is  apt  to  be  followed,  not  merely  by  a  cough,  but  often  by 
severe  inflammation  of  the  lungs  (the  pulmonCa  so  dreaded  by  the 
Spaniards  themselves).  The  summer  wear  should  also  not  be  too 
light,  and  a  woollen  undershirt  is  desirable.  A  rest  in  the  hottest 
part  of  the  day  is  distinctly  advisable,  if  possible  in  the  form  of  a 
siesta.  At  midsummer  one  should  take  care  not  to  expose  himself 
to  the  sun  and  should  avoid  all  violent  bodily  exercise.  An  over- 
indulgence in  fruit  or  alcohol,  and  other  dietetic  peccadillos  may 
easily  bring  on  fever.  Unpleasant  effects  consequent  upon  over-exer- 
tion in  the  sun  are  helped  by  Vermouth  di  Torino  or  the  Italian 
liqueur  Fernet- Brar^ca^  mixed  with  seltzer- water. 

Foreign  FhyBlcians  are  found  only  in  a  few  towns,  but  are 
always  to  be  preferred  when  accessible.  The  medicines  of  the  Spanish 
Apothecaries  (FarmaeCas)  are  often  made  up  differently  from  those 
of  N.  Europe.  It  is  therefore  advisable  to  be  provided  with  a  small 
travelling  medicine  chest,  the  contents  of  which  should  include  qui- 
nine pills  (for  slight  feverish  attacks),  Hoffmann's  drops,  rhubarb, 
tincture  of  opium,  and  the  like. 


xsziii 

XI.    Chronological  Table  of  the  Chief  STonta  in  Spanish  History. 
I.  From  the  Earliatt  TimM  to  the  Xoorith  Oonqu«tt» 

B.C.  The  Iberians,  the  earliest  inhabitants  of  the  peninsula, 
combine  with  the  Celts,  who  entered  it  rii  the  Pyrenees 
in  prehistoric  times,  to  form  one  people,  the  Celtiberians. 
ca.  1100.  The  PhoBnicians  found  Cadiz. 
237.  Carthaginians  invade  Spain. 
228.  Hasdrubal,  the  Carthaginian,  founds  Cartagena. 
205.  Carthaginians  driven  from  Spain  by  the  Romans. 
19.  Roman  conquest  of  Spain  completed.   The  Basques,  a 
remnant  of  the  original  Iberians,  alone  maintain  their 
independence  in  the  N. 
A.D.  409.  Vandals,  Alans,  and  Suevi  overrun  Spain. 

415.  Appearance  of  the  Visigoths. 
466-483.  Euric,  King  of  the  Visigoths,  defeats  the  Suevi  and 
other  tribes,  conquers  most  of  Spain,  and  puts  an  end  to 
the  dominion  of  the  Romans. 
569-586.  Leovigild,  King  of  the  Visigoths,  first  rules  over  the 

whole  peninsula. 
586-601.  Reccared  renounces  Arianism  and  becomes  the  first  Cath- 
olic king  of  Spain. 
672-680.  Wamba.   Disintegration  of  Visigothic  kingdom  begins. 
711.  Roderick,  the  last  Visigothic  king,  defeated  and  slain 

by  the  Moors  under  Tarik. 
713.  Musa,  viceroy  of  the  Omayyad  Caliph  of  Damascus,  con- 
quers all  Spain  except  Galicia  and  Asturias.  ^ 
718.  Pelayo  (d.  737),  the  Goth,  elected  king  in  Asturias. 
734.  Galicia  conquered  by  the  Moors. 


11.  From  the  Xooriih  Invasion  to  the  Union  of  Aragon  and  Oastile 
and  the  Expulsion  of  the  Xoors. 

a.  Moo&isH  Kingdoms. 

755.  'Abd  er'Rahm4n  establishes  the  independent  caliphate 
of  Cordova. 
912-960.  Under  'Abd  er-Rahmsln  III.   the  caliphate  of  Cordova 
attains  the  height  of  its  power. 
1031.  Caliphate  of  Cordova  broken  up  into  several  parts  under 
separate  dynasties. 
1087-92.  The  Almoravides  from  Africa   conquer    the  whole    of 
Moorish  Spain. 
1108.  Defeat  of  the  Christians  at  Udes. 
1 146-56.  The  fanatical  sect  of  the  Almohades,  from  Africa,  replace 
the  Almoravides. 
1195.  Moors  defeat  Alfonso  VIII.  of  CastUe  at  Alarcos. 
Baedskkb^s  Spain,  c 


xxxiv  CHRONOLOGICAL  TABLE. 

1212.  Moors  defeated  \>y  Alfonso  YIII.  at  the  great  battle  of 

Las  NaA.a8  de  Tolosa. 
1236-61.  Cordova,  Mnrcia,  Seville,  Jerez,  Cadiz,  etc.,  conquered 

by  Ferdinand  III.  Moorish  power  in  Spain  now  confined 

to  the  kingdom  of  Granada. 
1492.  Granada  taken  by  Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  and  an  end 

put  to  the  Moorish  domination  in  Spain. 

b.  The  Chbistian  Kingdoms. 

739-757(?).  Alfonso  I.  of  Asturias  unites  Galicia  and  Cantabria  with 

his  kingdom. 

778.  Charlemagne  invades  Spain.   Battle  of  Roncesvalles. 

801.  Barcelona  recovered  from  the  Moors  by  Louis  of  France. 

ca.  880.  Navarre,  under  Garcias  Ifiiguez,  becomes  independent. 

910.  Asturias  divided  into  the  kingdoms  of  Galicia,  Asturias, 

and  Leon,  which  become  re-united  under  Fruelall.  (924). 

931-960.  Ramiro  11.,  King  of  Leon,  wars  successfully  with  the 

Moors. 
1026  (?).  Birth  of  the  Cid,  Rodrigo  Diz  de  Bivar. 
1037.  Ferdinand  I.  unites  Leon  and  Castile. 
1072-1109.  Alfonso  VI.  of  Castile  assumes  the  title  of  Emperor  of 
Spain.    Capture  of  Toledo  (1086)  and  Valencia  (by  the 
Cid ;  1094).   Death  of  the  Cid  (1099). 
1189.  First  Cortes  meet  at  Burgos. 
1212.  Battle  of  Las  Navas  de  Tolosa. 

1230.  Final  union  of  Castile  and  Leon  under  Ferdinand  III. 
1262-84.  Alfonso  X.    Promulgation  of  the  8ieU  Partidas, 

1340.  Battle  of  the  Salado. 
1360-69.  Pedro  the  Cruel  of  Castile,  aided  by  the  Black  Prince, 
defeats  his  brother  Henry  of  Trastamara  at  Najera  (1367). 
1469.  Marriage  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella. 
1479.  Union  of  Castile  and  Aragon. 

m.  From  the  TJnion  of  Oastile  and  Aragon  to  the  War  of  the 
Spanish  Buecession. 

1480-84.  Inquisition  established  in  Castile  and  Aragon. 

1492.  Granada  captured,  and  the  Moorish  dominion  in  Spain 

ended. 
1492.  Discovery  of  America. 
1601-2.  Moors  expelled  from  Castile  and  Granada. 
1604.  Conquest  of  Naples  and  Sicily. 
1616-56.  Charles  I.  (Emp.  Charles  V.),  son  of  Philip  of  Austria 

and  the  Infanta  Joanna. 
1619-21.  Conquest  of  Mexico. 

1520.  Comunero  Rebellion  (p.  63). 

1525.  Battle  of  Pavia.   Capture  of  Francis  I, 


CHKONOLOGICAL  TABLE.  xxxt 

163141.  Conquest  of  Peru  and  CMli. 

1535.  Capture  of  Tunis. 

1556.  Abdication  of  Charles  V.  (d.  1558). 
1556-98.  Philip  II.    The  Spanish  monarchy  attains  its  greatest 
extent. 

1568.  Insurrection  in  the  Netherlands. 
1568-70.  First  expulsion  of  the  Moriscoes. 

1571.  Battle  of  Lepanto. 

1580.  Occupation  of  Portugal. 

1588.  Destruction  of  the  Spanish  Armada. 
1598-1621.  Philip  III.  Beginning  of  the  decline  of  Spain. 

1609.  Final  expulsion  of  the  Moriscoes. 

1616.  Death  of  Cervantes  de  Saavedra  (b.  1547). 
1621-65.  Philip  IV. 

1640.  Loss  of  Portugal.   Insurrection  in  Catalonia. 

1648.  Independence  of  the  Netherlands  recognized. 

1659.  Peace  of  the  Pyrenees. 
1665-1700.  Charles  II. 

1668.  Peace  of  Aix-la-Chapelle. 

1678.  Peace  of  Nymwegen. 
1688-97.  War  with  France. 

1697.  Peace  of  Ryswyck. 

1700.  Death  of  Charles  II.,  the  last  of  the  Austrian  (Hapsburg) 
dynasty. 


lY.  Spain  and«r  the  Bourbon*. 

1701-46.  Philip  V. 

1701-14.  War  of  the  Spanish  Succession  between  Philip  and  Arch- 
duke Charles  of  Austria. 

1704.  Gibraltar  taken  by  the  British. 

1713.  Salic  Law  introduced. 

1715.  Peace  of  Utrecht. 
1746-59.  Ferdinand  VI. 
1759-88.  Charles  III. 

1767,  Expulsion  of  the  Jesuits. 
1779-83.  Great  Siege  of  Gibraltar. 
1788-1808.  Charles  IV. 
1792-95.  War  with  France. 

1796.  War  in  alliance  with  France  against  Great  Britain. 

1797.  Spanish  fleet  defeated  at  Cape  St.  Vincent. 
1802.  Peace  of  Amiens. 

1805.  War  with  England.   Battle  of  Trafalgar. 

1808.  French  enter  Spain.  Charles  IV.  abdicates.  Ferdi- 
nand VII.,  his  son,  renounces  his  rights  in  favour  of 
Napoleon.  Joseph  Bonaparte  declared  king.  Rising  of 
Spain  against  the  French. 


xxxvl  CHRONOLOGICAL  TABLE. 

1808-14.  Peninsular  War.     Battles  of  Corunna  (1809),  Talavera 
(1809),  Albuera  (1811),  Salamanca  (1812),  and  Vitoria 
(1813).   Sieges  of  Saragossa  (1808  and  1809),  Gerona 
(1809),   Cadiz  (1810-12),  Badajoz  (1811  and  1812), 
Valencia  (1812),  and  Cludad  Rodrigo  (1812). 
1812.  Constitution  of  Cadiz.    Suppression  of  the  Inquisition. 
1814.  Expulsion  of  the  French  and  end  of  the  War  of  Libera- 
tion.  Ferdinand  YII.  is  restored,  but  abolishes  the  con- 
stitution and  re-establishes  the  Inquisition. 
1818-19.  Chili  and  Columbia  declare  their  independence. 

1819.  Florida  sold  to  the  United  States. 
1820-23.  Revolution.   New  Constitution.   Civil  war. 

1823.  The  French  intervene  and  overrun  Spain.    The  Cortes 
take  Ferdinand  to  Cadiz,  but  are  compelled  to  dissolve 
and  to  liberate  the  king  (Sept.  28th).    Period  of  reac- 
tionary rule. 
1824-25.  Peru  and  Mexico  become  independent 

1830.  Birth  of  Isabella  II.   Abolition  of  the  Salic  Law. 
1833.  Death  of  Ferdinand  VII. 
1833-40.  Regency  of  the  Queen-Mother  Maria  Christina. 
1834-39.  First  Carlist  War,  in  favour  of  Don  Carlos,  brother  of 
Ferdinand  VII. 
1837.  Revised  Constitution  promulgated. 
1841-43.  Espartero  regent. 

1843.  Isabella  II.  declared  of  age  and  assumes  the  reins  of 

government. 
1845.  Revision  of  Constitution  of  1837. 
1854.  Constitution  of  1837  restored. 
1859-60.  War  with  Morocco, 
1865-66.  War  with  Chili. 

1868.  Revolution  and  expulsion  of  Isabella. 
1868-70.  Provisional  Government  (Serrano). 

1870.  Amadous,  son  of  Victor  Emmanuel  of  Italy,  elected  King 

of  Spain. 
1873.  Amadeus  abdicates.     Republic  proclaimed  (Castellar, 
Serrano). 
1872-76.  Second  Carlist  War. 
1874-85.  Alfonso  XIX.,  son  of  Isabella  II.,  reigns. 

1885.  Accession  of  Alfonso  XIII.,  under  the  regency  of  his 
mother  Christina,  Archduchess  of  Austria. 
1895-98.  Insurrection^in  Cuba. 


XXXTll 

Zn.  Bibliography. 

The  following  is  a  small  selection  of  easily  accessible  books  on 
subjects  of  interest  to  the  tourist  in  Spain.  Other  works  of  local 
Talne  are  mentioned  throughont  the  Handbook. 

Works  on  Art.  Some  Aecoant  uf  Gothic  Architecture  in  Spain,  by 
Q.  E.  Street  (Murray;  1866),  with  numerous -illustrations  and  plans.  — 
Annals  of  the  Artists  of  Spain,  by  Sir  William  Stirling  Maxwell  (new 
edition,  1891).  —  Spanish  and  French  Painting,  by  O.  W.  Smith  (London, 
1884).  —  French  and  Spanish  Painter? ,  by  /.  Stothert  (London,  1876).  — 
The  Early  Portuguese  School  of  Painting,  by  Sir  J.  G.  Robinton  (London, 
1866).  —  The  Industrial  Arts  of  Spain,  br  Juan  F.  RicMo  (London,  1879).  — 
La  Peinture  Espagnole,  by  P.  Lefori  (1893).  —  Baudenkmaler  in  Spanien 
und  Portugal ,  by  C.  Uhde  (Berlin ,  1889-92).  —  Die  Baukunst  Spaniens, 
by  M.  Jtmgh&ndel  (Dresden,  1889-98).  —  Espana,  sus  raonumentos  y  artes,  by 
/.  Quadrado^  M.  Murgvia.  etc.  (Barcelona,  1885-^-8).  —  Die  Baukunst  der 
Renaissance  in  Portugal,  by  A.  Haupt  (Frankfurt-on-the-Xain,  1890-96).  — 
Geschichte  der  Baukunst  in  Spanien,  by  /.  Caveda  (Stuttgart,  1868).  — 
Monumentos  de  Portugal,  by  Vilhena  Barbeua  (Lisbon,  1886).  —The  Mon- 
umentos  Arquitectonicos  de  Espana  is  a  huge  illustrated  work  in  course  of 
publication  by  the  Spanish  Government. 

Hifliorical  Works.  Among  the  leading  Spanish  historians  are  Mariana, 
^ajfangos^  Orlis^  and  Lafuente.  A  Hittoria  Qenerai  is  now  in  course  ot 
publication  by  the  Spanish  Academy  of  Histbry. 

English'  readers  will  not  fo^et  the  works  of  Dunham^  Preecott^  Robert- 
son, and  Waehinfft(m  Irving.  Short  and  useful  English  works  are  the 
History  of  Spain  to  the  Death  of  Ferdinand  the  Catholic,  by  UUek  Ralph 
Burke  (3  vols.-  London,  1896);  Spain,  by  /.  A.  Marrison  (Boston,  1881); 
The  Story  of  Spain,  by  E.  E.  and  Suean  Sale  (1886);  The  Story  of  the 
Moors  in  Spain,  by  Stanley  Lane-Poole  (1886);  and  The  Christian  Recovery 
of  Spain,  by  B,  E.  Watt*  (1894;  these  three  in  'The  Story  of  the  Nations' 
series).  The  ^Geschichte  Spanient',  by  O.  JHereU  (Berlin,  1884-96),  is  a  recent 
German  work. 

Works  on  Literature.  Besides  the  large  works  of  Ticknory  BouUrwek, 
and  Sismondi  (^Literature  of  Southern  Europe' ;  Eng^  by  Roscoe),  the  trav- 
eller may  consult  the  well-written  compendium  of  ff.  Butler  Clarke  (^Spanish 
Literature";  London,  1883). 

Works  of  Description  and  Travel.  Spain,  by  Rev.  Wentuorth  Wa>tier 
(London,  1882).  —  Spain  and  Morocco,  by  Henry  T.  .Pine*  (New  York,  1891). 

—  Untrodden  Spain,  Among  the  Spanish  People,  both  by  ffugh  Jamet  Ron 
(London,  1876  and  1877).  —  The  Bible  in  Spain,  by  George  Borrow  (London, 
5th  ed.,  1894).  —  The  Zineali :  an  Account  of  the  Gipsies  of  Spain ,  by 
Qeorge  Borrow  (new  ed.,  1888).  —  Spain,  by  ff.  Willie  JJoarfey  (London,  1876). 

—  Spanish  Vistas,  by  George  Pareons  Laihrop  (New  York,  1883).  —  Spanish 
Cities,  by  C.  A.  Stoddard  OTew  York,  1892).  -  Cosas  de  Espana,  by  Mrt. 
W.  Put  Byrne  (London,  1866).  —  The  Land  of  the  Castanet,  by  ff.  C. 
Chatfield-Taylor  (Chicago,  1896).  —  Glimpses  of  Spain,  by  S.  T.  WaUie 
(Baltimore,  1896;  vol.  3  of  Works).  —  Sketches  Awheel  in  Fin  de  Sifecle 
Iberia,  by  F.  B.  and  W.  H.  Workman  (London,  1897),  a  record  of  a  bicycling 
tour.  —  In  Northern  Spain,  by  Dr.  Hane  Oadow  (London,  1897).  —  Voyage 
en  Espagne,  by  Thiophile  Oautier  (1881).  —  Aus  dem  heutigen  Spanien 
und  Portugal,  by  2r.  Pasearge  (Leipsic.  1884).  —  Bin  Winter  in  Spanien, 
by  F.  W.  Haekldnder  (Stuttgart,  1866).  —  Die  Halbinsel  der  Pyrenaen, 
by  M.  Willkomm  (Leipsic,  1866).  —  Wanderungen  durch  die  nordostlichen 
und  centralen  Provinzen  Spaniens,  by  M.  Willkomm  (Leipsic,  1862).  — 
Spagna,  by  Edmondo  de  Amide  (Florence,  1878).  —  The  sportsman  and 
naturalist  should  consult  Wild  Spain,  an  admirable  work  by  A.  Chapman 
and  FT.  ST.  Buck  (London,  1888). 


xxxvlU 


Glossary  of  Spanisli  Terms  nsed  in  the  Handbook. 


Ae^quia^  irrigation  channel. 

Ajimez  Window  (Arab,  themtfjeh)^ 
if  oorish  arched  window  subdivided 
by  colon  nettes. 

Alameda,  public  promenade. 

AlcdzoTy  Alcazdba,  Moorish  tower  or 
castle. 

Almindr  (Arab,  al^mindr  ,  tower, 
column),  minaret. 

Arrabdl  (Arab,  ar-rdbad)^  suburb. 

Arroba.  a  Spanish  and  Portuguese 
weight  containing  25  libras  or 
pounds. 

ArtesotMdo  (from  arteson,  a  trough), 
coffered  or  cassetted  ceiling  (used 
mainly  of  the  Moorish  honeycomb 
ceilings). 

Airil,  lectern,  reading-desk. 

Attdieneia,  court  of  appeal,  supreme 
court. 

Ayuntamiento,  town-council. 

Azotia,  roof-terrace,  flat  roof. 

AzuUJot  (Arab,  az-zuleidja^  small 
stones,  mosaic),  glazed  tile. 

Barrio,  suburb. 

Capilla  Mayor,  chancel,  chapel  con- 
taining the  high-altar. 

Capitd/n  General,  governor  of  one  of 
the  14  military  districts  of  Spain. 

Ceua  de  ApuntanUento,  town-hall. 

Casa  Consiitorial,  town-hall. 

Cementerio  (Port.  Cemiterio),  cemetery. 

Cimbdrio,  dome  or  lantern  over  the 
crossing  of  a  church. 

ClausU'O,  cloisters. 

Colegiata,  collegiate  church. 

Colegio,  college,  common  table  at  a 
university. 

Coro,  choir  (usually  in  the  middle 
of  the  nave). 

Cuartel  (Port,  quartet),  barracks. 

Cuttddia,  monstrance,  pyx  (box  in 
which  the  Host  is  kept  and  ex- 
hibited). 

J)ip%^ci&n Provincial,  provincial  legis- 
lature.   . 

Etnpalme  (Port.  Entroncam&nio),  rail- 
way junction. 

Ermita  (Port,  ermida),  small  rural 
church,  pilgrimage-chapel. 

Estaddn  (Port,  ettagdo),  station. 

Esto/ado,  painting  and  gilding  of 
sculpture  in  imitation  of  the  actual 
material. or  *stuff'  (estofa), 

Facistdl,  chorister's  desk. 

F4ria  (Port,  feira),  annual  fair. 

Olorieta,  round  space,  rondel. 


Oobernaddr  Civil,  civil  governor  of  a 

province. 
Grotesque  Style,  see  p.  lii. 
Herrera  Style,  see  p.  xliv. 
Huerta,  fertile  tilled  land  resembling 

a  garden. 
Legua,  Spanish  league  (about  4  Engl. 

miles). 
Lonja,  exchange. 

Afajo,  Maja,  members  of  the  lower 
class    in    their    gala   attire    (old- 
fashioned  expression). 
Mezquita  {Ax&\i.  metdjid),  mosque. 
MihrdJb,  prayer-niche  in  a  mosqne. 
Miraddr,  roof-terrace,  balcony. 
Mudijar  Style,  see  p.  xliv. 
Nadmiento,  source. 
Oracidn,  Angelus,  bell  for  the  Ave 

Maria. 
Palaeio  Episcopal  (Obispal)  or  Arzobis- 

pal,  bishop's  or  archbishop''s  palace. 
Parrdquia,  parish-church. 
Pasio,  public  promenade. 
Patio  (Port,  pateo),  court. 
Plateresque  Style,  see  p.  1. 
Presidio,  penitentiary. 
Ptterta  del  Perddn  ('door  of  pardon") 

is  the  name  of  the  main  door  of 

several    cathedrals,    because    its 

passage  ensured  absolution. 
Puerto,  mountain-pass,  harbour. 
Quinta,    park   (villa  in  the   Roman 

sense).' 
Quintal,  hundredweight  (4  arrobas). 
Rambla  (Arab,  ramla,  sandy  place), 

river-bed,  dry  except  during  the 

rainy  season. 
Reja,  screen,  railing,  parclose. 
Respaldos,  outer  side-walls  of  a  choir 

(coro). 
Retc^lo  (Port,  retabulo),  reredos. 
Ria,  submarine  mouth  of   a   river, 

fjord. 
Romeria,  pilgrimage,  church-fair. 
Seo  (Port.  Si;  from  Lat.  sedes,  a  seat), 

cathedral. 
Sierra  (VortSerra;  *saw'),  mountain 

chains 
Silleria,  choir-stalls. 
Tapia  (Port,    tdipa),    Moorish  wall, 

made  of  earth. 
Trascovo,  outside  of  end- wall  (back) 

of  choir  (coro). 
Vega  (Arab.  toaWa),  see  Huerta. 
Venta,  Ventorillo,  tavern  (Ital.  osteria), 
Zaguan  (Arab,  sahn),  vestibule. 
Zarzuela,  see  p.  xxyi. 


Historical  Sketch  of  Spuiish  Art. 

By  Professor  Carl  Justi, 

A  visit  to  Spain  will  ensure  the  lover  of  art  at  least  one  thing  ^- 
a  new  leaf  in  the  albom  of  his  experienees.  A  peninsula  at  the  far 
end  of  Enrope,  protected  by  stormy  seas  and  a  precipitous  range  of 
monntains ;  a  history  that  has  no  analogy  with  that  of  any  other  oc- 
cidental nation ;  a  people  of  strong  individuality  and  still  stronger 
self-appreciation  j  always  antagonistic  to  what  is  foreign  and  con- 
vinced of  its  own  supc^ority;  a  literature  that  includes  the  most 
original  of  modem  books :  —  elements  such  as  these  cannot  but 
arouse  our  curiosity  as  to  the  achievements  of  Spain  in  the  technical, 
pictorial,  and  plastic  arts. 

Those  who  pick  their  way  for  the  first  time  through  the  laby- 
rinthine streets  of  an  old  Spanish  town  may  find  it  difficult  to  detect 
traces  of  a  genuine  Spanish  art,  and  will  be  inclined  to  ask  what  is 
the  Spanish  style,  and  whither  and  to  what  century  are  we  to  look  for 
the  national  schools  of  Spain.  The  monuments  before  us,  numerous 
as  they  are,  remain  dumb  to  questions  such  as  these.  Sometimes  it 
would  almost  seem  as  if  all  the  schools  of  the  rest  of  Europe  had 
given  each  other  a  rendezvous  in  Spain  at  the  expense  of  the  Spanish 
purse.  The  ancient  prelates  and  grandees,  the  magistrates  and  guilds 
present  themselves  as  patrons  of  art  of  the  most  varied  and  im- 
partial tastes,  but  they  appear  to  have  shown  their  enthusiasm,  as 
the  Orientals  do  their  delight  in  dancing,  merely  by  looking  on. 

The  Bomanesque  and  Gothic  cathedrals  seem  the  direct  outcome 
of  French  medievalism ;  the  tombs  and  retablos  of  the  14-1 5th  cent, 
are  full  of  reminiscences  of  Tuscany  and  Flanders ;  the  Renaissance 
in  Spain  suggests  a  transplanted,  luxuriant,  and  overgrown  Italian 
garden.  The  cinquecento  style  is  there  reproduced  with  the  most 
scrupuloas  conscientiousness ;  Raphael  and  Michael  Angelo  were  re- 
vered as  demigods ;  Spanish  artists  did  their  best  to  Italianize  them- 
selves in  the  studios  of  Roman  and  Florentine  masters ;  even  the 
Venetians  were  by  no  means  without  their  imitators.  Finally  came 
the  Italian  naturalistic  movement ;  but  Spanish  artists  could  imitate 
this  only  by  abandoning  imitation  and  by  painting  what  lay  before 
their  eyes  —  vi%.  Spanidi  nature ;  and  thus  it  was  the  Italians  v?ho 
showed  the  Spaniards  how  to  bo  'natural'  for  the  first  and  last  time. 
To  this  naturalistic  impulse  we  owe  Velazquez,  Zurbaran,  and  Murillo. 

The  traveller  who  is  already  familiar  with  France,  Flanders,  an^ 


xl  SPANISH  ART. 

Italy  is,  therefore,  in  the  most  favourable  position  to  enjoy  an  art-tonr 
in  Spain.  His  sensations  will  often  be  compaiable  to  those  of  an 
enthusiastic  collector,  who  believes  he  possesses  a  complete  set  of 
his  favourite  master's  works  and  suddenly  comes  upon  a  forgotten 
corner,  where  he  discovers,  amid  many  copies  and  pasticcios,  a 
number  of  hitherto  unknown  originals.  But  this  analogy  is  not 
entirely  satisfactory. 

Travellers  who  have  never  visited  the  Orient  will  discover  in 
Spain  an  entirely  novel  field,  and  many  will  probably  find  that,  amid 
all  their  Iberian  experiences,  their  interest  is  most  powerfully  excited 
by  what  the  Spaniards  have  left  intact  of  the  creations  of  their  an- 
cient conquerors.  In  Spain  the  art  of  the  Moors  and  Arabs  may  be 
traced  firom  Its  first  dependent  steps  to  Its  highest  stage  of  refine- 
ment, and  its  monuments  may  be  more  easily  studied  and  eqjoyed 
there  than  anywhere  else. 

All  those  imported  art-methods,  whether  introduced  by  the  for- 
eigner himself  or  by  the  Spaniard  schooled  in  foreign  parts,  naturally 
awakened  imitation.  Each  new  phenomenon  called  into  existence 
some  kind  of  school,  the  style  of  which  showed  some  more  or  less 
distinct  trait  that  might  be  called  Spanish.  There  is  no  lack  of  in- 
teresting creations  on  which  an  individual  character  has  been  im- 
pressed by  the  stamp  of  a  national  spirit.  In  most  cases,  however, 
this  Spanish  impress  is  seen  rather  in  sentiment  and  temperament 
than  in  any  specifically  artistic  element.  The  treatment  is  more 
sketchy,  the  taste  less  fine,  the  forms  more  empty.  The  feebleness 
of  the  forms  is,  however,  compensated  by  an  air  of  earnest  truth- 
fulness, a  strong  and  genuine  pathos.  Along  with  this  goes  a 
tendency  to  unbridled  fantasy,  to  exaggeration  approaching  cari- 
cature, to  a  heaping  up  of  parts,  to  astounding  combinations  of  the 
Gothic  and  the  Moorish,  the  mediaeval  and  the  modem. 

Acclimated  styles  of  this  kind  seldom,  however,  have  any  long 
continuance.  A  iiew  phenomenon  in  the  meantime  appears  in 
foreign  parts  to  arouse  once  more  the  tendency  to  imitate;  a  new 
wave  obliterates  all  traces  of  the  old.  That  which  had  scarce  taken 
root  disappears  at  once  and  without  resistance.  Spanish  art  is 
wanting  in  continuity  of  development }  its  changes  are  invariably 
stimulated  from  without. 

It  would  carry  us  too  far  to  attempt  to  explain  this  lack  of 
initiative  and  creative  power  by  racial  qualities,  by  political  history, 
or  by  the  ancient  social  canker  of  contempt  for  the  worker  with  his 
hands.  Similar  phenomena  are  seen  to  this  day  among  the  nations 
that  lie  at  a  distance  from  the  main  focus  of  European  civilization ; 
they  show  the  same  zeal  to  'keep  up  with  the  procession'  by  a 
prompt  adoption  of  new  methods  and  inventions,  and  to  keep  step, 
at  least  ostensibly,  with  their  more  favourably  situated  sisters. 


SPANISH  ART.  xll 


a.  Arohiteoture. 

These  observations  seem  to  the  visitor  to  Spain  nowhere  so 
pertinent  as  in  the  domain  of  architecture.  ^The  singularity  is,  that, 
though  endowed  with  the  love  of  architecture,  and  an  intense  desire 
to  possesss  its  products,  nature  seems  to  have  denied  to  the  Spaniard 
the  inventive  faculty  necessary  to  enable  him  to  supply  himself 
with  the  productions  so  indispensable  to  his  intellectual  nature' 
(Ferguuon), 

The  extant  ruins  give  a  very  inadequate  idea  of  the  wealth  of 
public  buildings  of  all  kinds  that  covered  Spain  in  the  days  of  the 
Boman  Snpire.  M£rid<L,  the  military  colony  founded  by  Augustus 
and  afterwards  the  capital  of  Lusltania,  is  still  richer  in  remains 
than  any  other  spot  Its  great  bridge  (once  of  81  arches),  its  two 
aqueducts,  the  theatre,  the  amphitheatre,  the  naumachia  and  circus, 
the  temple  of  Mars  (now  a  church),  the  triumphal  arch,  the  forum, 
the  therms,  the  villas,  and  the  camps  still  afford  a  very  fair  picture 
of  what  went  to  compose  a  great  town  in  the  days  of  Trajan,  Hadrian, 
and  Marcus  Aurelius.  At  Santiponee  (Italica),  Tarragona^  and 
Sagunto  nothing  is  to  be  found  but  shapeless  masses  of  concrete 
walls.  The  most  imposing  single  Roman  monument  in  the  peninsula 
is  the  aqueduct  of  Stgovia, 

Numerous  elaborately  fitted  up  churches  were  erected  in  the 
Viiigofhie  Period  (414-711),  but  the  small  basilica  at  Bano8,  at- 
tributed by  an  inscription  to  King  Recceswind  (661),  is,  perhaps, 
the  only  one  of  these  now  intact.  The  arcades  show  a  tendency  to 
the  horseshoe  form ;  the  apse  or  sanctuary  is  rectangular.  Some 
idea  of  the  decorative  style  of  this  period  is  afforded  also  by  the 
capitals  of  columns  and  other  architectural  fragments  in  the  mosque 
of  Ccfdova,  at  Toledo,  at  Mirida,  and  elsewhere.  Part  of  the  city 
walls  of  Toledo  dates  from  the  Yisigothic  period. 

After  their  conquest  by  the  Moors  the  vanquished  Goths  estab- 
lished a  new  Christian  kingdom  among  the  mountain-fastnesses  of 
Asturiat,  which  formed  the  basis  for  the  gradual  recovery  of  the 
peninsula.  Here  pilgrimages  may  be  made  to  the  cavern  of  Cova- 
ionga^  the  tomb  of  Pelayo,  and  to  the  churches  of  San  Miguel  de 
Lino  and  Santa  Maria  de  Naranco,  near  Oviedo.  Both  of  tliese 
churches  are  atcribed  to  Ramiro  1.  (843-50),  and  the  latter  was 
probably  once  his  palace.  Of  a  similar  date  and  style  are  Santa  Cristlna 
de  Lena,  and  San  Pedro  and  San  Pablo  at  Barcelona. 

Somanasque  Style.  The  Pyrenees  form  no  ethnographical 
harrier }  one  and  the  same  Iberian  race  occupies  Gascony,  Navarre, 
and  the  Basque  Provinces.  Hence  it  is  easy  to  understand  why  the 
new  architecture  of  Spain  was  closely  akin  to  that  of  France  in 
general  and  Aquitaine  in  particular.  The  influence  of  the  great 
orders  of  Gluny  and  Giteaux,  and  of  the  numerous  prelates  whom 
they  famished  to  Spain,  tended  in  the  same  direction. 


xlli    Architecture.  SPANISH  ART.         Romarieaque  8tyU, 

Most  of  the  ohuTches  of  the  ll-12th  cent,  were  of  moderate  size. 
Their  type  was  that  of  the  basilica  with  nave  and  aisles,  a  well-maiked 
transept,  a  triapsidal  termination ,  and  a  lantern  or  dome  over  the 
crossing.  The  roof  was  at  first  flat ,  but  afterwards  the  nave  was 
covered  with  barrel-vaulting  and  the  aisles  with  quadrant  or  semi- 
barrel  vauMnof.  The  most  important  monument  of  the  early  Ro- 
manesque period  is  the  church  of  Santiago  de  Compostela^  a  some- 
what simplified  copy  of  St.  Semin  at  Toulouse.  The  Auvergne 
arrangement  of  radiating  chapels  was  also  reproduced  here  for  the 
first  time.  San  Isldoro  at  Leon,  San  Millan  and  other  churches  at 
Segovia ,  San  Vicente  and  San  Pedro  at  Avila,  Santa  Maria  and 
Santiago  at  Corurma  are  additional  examples  of  the  same  style. 

The  custom  of  removing  the  choir  from  the  sanctuary  to  the 
nave  began  at  an  early  date,  and  at  the  close  of  the  middle  ages  it 
had  become  the  regular  practice.  One  consequence  was  that  the  E. 
part  of  the  church  lost  its  importance  and  lagged  in  development. 
As  the  choir  (coro)  was  enclosed  on  three  sides  by  high  walls, 
the  unity  of  the  interior  of  the  church  was  wholly  destroyed.  De- 
corated within  and  without  with  the  most  elaborate  sculpturing, 
these  choirs  furnish  us  with  the  richest  specimens  of  the  work  of 
the  ecclesiastical  artist ;  but  they  form  as  it  were  a  church  within 
a  church  and  reduce  the  latter  to  the  functions  of  a  hall  of  shelter. 
The  Spanish  cathedrals,  as  compared  with  those  of  France  and 
England,  have  had  the  inestimable  good  fortune  of  seeing  their 
mediaeval  contents  and  stamp  preserved  from  the  destruction  of  a 
later  age,  and  indeed  they  are  often  less  changed  than  those  of 
Italy.    The  cathedrals  are  the  true  museums  of  Spain. 

In  the  12th  cent,  the  Cistercian  order  introduced  the  Burgund- 
ian  type  of  church,  the  noble  and  severe  forms  of  which  contained 
the  elements  of  the  Pointed  or  OotMe  Style.  Examples  of  this  are 
the  churches  of  Venula  (ca.  1146)  and  of  Las  Huelgas,  near  Burgos. 
Groining  gradually  supplants  waggon  or  barrel  vaulting.  Large 
churches,  such  as  those  at  Salamanca,  Tarragona,  Lirida,  and 
Tudela,  though  begun  in  the  Romanesque  period,  assume  an  early- 
Gothic  character  before  their  building  is  completed.  These  churches 
are  the  first  edifices  in  which  the  Spanish  spirit  has  expressed 
itself  architecturally,  and  their  characteristics  are  noble  simplicity, 
solidity  of  construction,  clearness  and  precision  of  form,  delicapy  of 
ornamentation,  and  proportions  that  make  an  impression  of  solemn- 
ity and  earnestness.  Especial  value  was  attached  to  the  indis- 
pensable Cimborio  (over  the  crossing),  which  at  Zamora,  Toro,  and 
Salamanca  assumed  the  form  of  a  lofty  dome,  with  a  drum  pierced 
by  windows.  The  external  colonnades,  extending  from  the  W.  front 
along  the  N.  and  S.  sides,  form  a  peculiar  feature ;  examples  of 
this  may  be  seen  at  Segovia,  where  a  Templar  church  has  also  been 
preserved. 

Even  before  the  completion  of  these  early -Gothic  buildings 


OoihieStyU.  SPANISH  ART.  Arehitecture.    xliii 

the  developed  Freneh  cathedral  style  of  the  13th  oent.  was  intro- 
duoed  into  Spain,  prohably  hy  French  architects.  It  is  first  seen  in 
the  large  cathedrals  of  Burgos  (1221)  and  Toledo  (1227),  and  a  little 
later  in  that  of  Leon,  Scarcely  a  trace  of  a  native  element  is  visible 
in  these  stractnres.  The  device  of  chapels  radiating  from  the  apse 
is  nowhere  so  popular  as  in  Spain.  The  interior  of  Avila  Cathe' 
dralj  with  its  doable  ambulatory,  is  especially  graceful.  The  richer 
style  of  the  14th  cent,  is  marked  by  the  use  of  carved  flowers 
in  its  ornamentation,  by  its  finely  articulated  profiles,  and  by  its 
complicated  tracery.  The  final  artistic  development  took  place  in 
the  15-16th  cent.,  partly  under  German  and  Flemish  Influence. 
Johann  of  Cologne  and  his  son  Simon  were  the  dominant  architects 
in  the  diocese  of  Burgos ;  and  the  cathedral  of  Burgos  then  received 
its  poetic  silhouette  by  the  addition  of  the  caps  to  its  towers,  the 
cimborio,  and  the  chapel  of  the  Gondestabile.  The  15th  cent, 
opened  with  the  foundation  of  Serrille  Cathedral^  which  covers  a  larger 
area  than  any  other  Christian  church  except  St.  Peter's  at  Rome. 
This  cathedral,  which  is  conterminous  with  the  old  mosque,  is,  per- 
haps, the  work  of  Germans.  All  the  buildings  of  the  time  of  the 
'Catholic  Kings'  are  distinguished  by  their  uniformity  of  style  and 
their  romantic  magulAcence.  Inscriptions  are  used  after  the  Arab 
fashion  as  ornamental  motives.  Some  of  the  finest  Gothic  buildings 
in  Spain  (as  at  Salamanca  in  1513  and  at  Segovia  in  1523)  were 
begun  and  finished  after  the  Renaissance  had  already  made  itself  felt. 

In  Catalonia  the  evolution  of  the  interior  of  the  churches  took 
a  course  of  its  own.  In  the  effort  after  spaciousness  the  naves 
were  gradually  made  wider  and  wider,  until  the  aisles  disappeared 
and  were  represented  merely  by  a  series  of  separate  chapels,  as  in 
the  churches  of  Anjou.  Good  examples  of  these  aisleless  churches 
are  the  Cathedral,  Santa  Maria  del  Mar,  and  Santa  Maria  del  Pino 
at  Barcelona,  the  cathedral  of  Palma  (Majorca),  and  the  cathedral 
of  Oerona. 

The  plan  of  imitating  the  large  windows  of  the  cathedrals  of 
N.  France  was  soon  found  to  be  unsuitable  for  the  sun-burnt  land 
of  Spain ;  hence  the  windows  were  first  walled  up  (as  at  Avila)  and 
afterwards  replaced  by  very  low  or  very  narrow  ones.  Small  churches 
of  a  later  date,  in  which  the  idea  of  a  Spanish  temple  finds  its  full 
expression,  are  almost  windowless.  Their  exterior  is  simple  and 
hare  like  the  buildings  of  the  Orient.  Within,  a  *dim  religious  light' 
is  shed  upon  the  altar  and  its  immediate  environment,  while  the 
whole  oi  the  apsidal  ending  is  shut  off  by  the  sculptured  ^retablo', 
reaching  to  the  roof. 

When  the  Arabs  came  to  Spain,  they  possessed  no  architecture 
properly  so  called.  As  a  race,  they  were  as  deficient  as  the  Span- 
lards  in  constructive  ingenuity ;  their  whole  strength  lay  in  their 
ornamentation.    The  Mosque  of  Cordova,  the  oldest  and  largest 


xliv    ArchiUeture.         SPANISH  ART.  MoorUh  Style. 

Moorish  monument  in  Spain,  is  a  many-columned  and  originally 
flat-roofed  structure,  the  components  of  which  were  collected  from 
other  buildings,  while  its  plastic  and  mosaic  ornamentation  was 
entrusted  to  artists  from  Byzantium.  From  this  Byzantine  begin- 
ning was  evolved  that  characteristic  grammar  of  form  used  to  the 
present  day  in  all  Mohammedan  countries  and  apparent  in  all 
the  other  Moobjsh  Monumbnts  of  Spain.  These  monuments,  of 
world-wide  celebrity,  are  various  in  kind,  including  mosques  and 
synagogues,  royal  castles,  baths,  towers,  and  city-gates.  The  most 
striking  edifice  is,  perhaps,  El  Gristo  de  la  Luz  in  Toledo ^  the  mosque 
in  which  Alfonso  YI.  caused  the  first  mass  to  be  read  after  his 
capture  of  the  city  in  1085,  a  bold  and  brilliant  cabinet-piece  of 
Arab  construction.  Other  specimens  are  the  Casa  de  Mesa  and  the 
Taller  del  Moro  in  the  same  city,  the  Aljaferia  at  Sarctgossa.  The 
monumental  creations  of  the  last  period  of  the  Moorish  dominion 
in  Seville  exist  only  in  fragments  or  in  metamorphosis.  Of  the 
mosque  all  that  remains  is  the  minaret  (La  Giralda;  1196)  and  theN. 
portal  of  the  Court  of  Oranges.  The  Alcazar  was  renewed  by  Pedro 
the  Gruel  in  the  14th  cent.,  and  again  in  the  16th  by  the  Italian 
architects  of  Charles  Y'.  After  the  conquest  of  Seville  (1248)  Ibn 
al-Ahmar  made  Oranada  the  capital  of  the  last  Moorish  kingdom 
in  Spain,  and  to  this  fragmentary  relic  of  the  Arab  power,  which 
clung  to  the  soil  for  250  years  more,  Spain  owes  the  Alhambra, 
that  gem  of  the  delicate  fancy  of  the  Moor,  that  realised  vision  of 
the  Arabian  Nights. 

Even  after  the  conquest  of  Granada  the  same  style  was  carried 
on  by  the  Moresco  subjects  of  the  Christian  rulers^  and  its  forms 
were  applied  to  the  buildings  of  the  new  kingdom.  The  Spaniards 
name  this  blending  of  Moorish  and  Christian  art  the  Estilo  Mud^ab. 
It  is  not,  however,  a  new  style  or  even  a  new  modification  of  a 
style ;  it  is  simply  an  external  application  of  somewhat  incongruous 
elements  to  any  kind  of  structure.  The  Arab  taste  has,  however, 
exercised  a  strong  influence  upon  purely  Gothic  or  Renaissance 
creations.  The  most  interesting  examples  of  this  Mudejar  style  are 
the  two  synagogues  at  Toledo,  Santa  Maria  la  Blanca  of  the  12th 
cent,  and  El  Transito  of  the  14th.  At  Seville  the  palaces  of  the 
Marquis  of  Tarifa  (Casa  de  Pilatos)  and  the  Duke  of  Alba  (Casa  de 
las  Duefias)  show  Moorish,  mixed  with  Gothic  and  plateresque, 
elements. 

The  Benaissance  Style  will  be  discussed  under  the  heading 
of  Sculpture.  At  first  it  showed  itself  only  in  the  ornamental  parts 
of  buildings.  The  use  of  Corinthian  columns  and  other  classical 
features  in  Gothic  churches  led  architects  like  Diego  db  Silob  and 
YALUELyiiiA  to  the  erection  of  much-admired  buildings,  such  as 
San  Salvador  at  Vbeda  and  the  cathedrals  of  Oranada,  Maloffa., 
\  Jaen.  This  golden  age  with  its. saturnalia  of  ornamentation  was 
wed  by  the  CiNauBCENTo  or  Heb,resa  Style,  which  is  marked 


Romme$que  8tyU.        SPANISH  ART.  Sculpture,     xiv 

by  severity  and  sobriety,  shans  all  decoration,  and  seeks  its  effects 
simply  by  size  and  proportions.  It  takes  its  name  from  the  creator 
of  its  typical  monument ,  the  Eteorial.  The  Baboqitb  Sttlb  is 
worthily  represested  by  the  Royal  Palace  of  the  BourbofUy  which 
dominates  the  view  of  Madrid  as  seen  from  the  N. 

b.  Bcvlptiire. 

The  scnlptare  of  Spain  is  the  branch  of  national  art  least  known 
beyond  the  bounds  of  the  country.  Its  beginnings  must  be  sought 
in  the  early  Christian  period.  Built  into  the  walls  of  the  presbytery 
of  the  church  of  San  Fellu  at  Oerona  are  four  early- Ohristian  sarco- 
phagi and  two  Roman  ones.  But  then  follows,  as  in  Italy,  a  long 
night  of  which  nothing  is  known.  There  are  few  sculptures  left  that 
can,  on  any  serioxis  grounds,  be  referred  to  the  Vislgothio  period ; 
and  specimens  shown  here  and  there  as  Yisigothio  have  no  claim 
whatever  to  the  epithet.  The  only  important  works  of  art  of  that 
period  are  the  golden  crowns  of  Guarrazar,  preserved  at  the  Mttst^e 
de  Gluny  in  ParU  and  in  the  Archeological  Museum  of  Madrid, 
Those  who  take  an  interest  in  the  relics  of  the  first  centuries  of 
the  Reconquista  should  make  a  pilgrimage  to  Asturias  and  study  the 
contents  of  the  Gamara  Santa  at  Oviedo  (from  which  a  few  objects 
have  been  brought  to  the  Madrid  Archsological  Museum),  and  they 
should  also  examine  the  ivory  crucifix  of  the  Old  at  Salamanca  and 
the  reliquary  of  St.  Millan  in  the  Rioja  (1035). 

The  existence  of  works  in  stone  can  hardly  be  proved  before 
the  11th  cent.,  and  the  barbaric  mason's  work  on  portals,  fonts, 
and  tombs  hardly  allows  us  to  speak  of  an  art  of  sculpture  before 
the  second  half  of  the  12th  century.  Even  then  it  is  long  before 
the  Canteros  and  EnlaUadores  reach  anything  but  a  very  low  level. 
It  may  be  assumed  that  the  better  products  of  the  13-1 4th  cent, 
are  almost  all  of  Fbbnch  or  Italian  Obioin,  even  when  (as  is 
often  the  case)  no  foreign  names  are  mentioned  in  connection  with 
them.  And  this  assumption  is  supported  by  the  practical  Identity 
of  these  sculptures  with  those  of  countries  in  which  they  are  the 
outcome  of  a  continuous  history,  by  the  want  of  a  similar  continuity 
in  Spain,  and  by  the  inferior  level  of  the  general  development, 
above  which  only  a  few  isolated  instances  of  better  work  emerge. 

The  first  attempts  in  sculpture  in  stone  are  found  in  the  N.W.  and 
in  the  district  of  the  Pyrenees,  as  in  San  Salvador  de  Loire  in  JVa- 
wifte,  in  San  Pedro  in  Huesea  (lunettes),  at  Ripoll  (portada),  and  in 
San  Pablo  del  Gampo  at  Barcelona.  Quaint  reliefs  are  immured  in 
the  facade  of  San  Isidore  at  Leon  and  on  the  S.  side  of  the  cathedral 
of  Santiago,  The  figures  of  the  12th  cent,  are  generally  mere 
poppets,  even  those  on  the  royal  monument  at  Najeraj  erected  by 
Sancho  in.  (1157)  in  honour  of  Dona  Bianca.  Barcelona  was  a 
wealthy  city,  dominating  the  commerce  of  the  Mediterranean ;  but 
the  sarcophagus  of  St.  Eulalia  (1327),  with  itsPisan  reminiscence 


xlTl    Seulptttre.  SPANISH  ART.      14th  and  i6ih  CerU., 

shows  how  easily  its  art-cravings  were  satisfied  at  the  beginniDg 
of  the  14th  century. 

One  of  the  most  far-reaching  influences  from  the  N.E.  was  that 
of  the  GssAT  EocLBSiASTiCAL  Obders,  especially  that  of  Clunt.  It, 
therefore,  need  not  astonish  us,  if  we  find  works  of  great  excellence 
standing,  as  it  were  miraculously  and  without  intermediary,  along- 
side the  barbarous  attempts  just  noted.  The  Puerta  de  la  Gloria  of 
Santiago  de  Composiela  is  undoubtedly  as  foreign  in  origin  as  the 
church  itself;  the  name  of  the  architect  is  recorded  as  Ma^tre 
Mateo  (d.  after  1188).  The  admirable  terracotta  statuettes  in  the 
S.  portal  of  S.  Yicente  at  Avila  belong  to  the  13th  cent.,  to  judge 
from  the  identity  of  their  style  with  that  of  the  rich  stone  aica  In 
the  interior  of  the  church.  This  area  is  the  finest  work  of  its  kind. 
The  imagination  of  the  Romanesque  stone-cutters  may  be  admired 
in  the  cloisters  and  churches  of  the  12-13th  centuries.  It  fairly 
ran  riot  in  the  capitals  of  the  columns,  where  Biblical  scenes  and 
purely  decorative  motives  alternate  with  beast-fables,  fantastic 
monsters,  and  scenes  from  human  life  (Tarragona^  LSrida^  Bipoll, 
Elne,  San  Cugat  near  Barcelona). 

The  cathedral  of  Tarragona  furnishes  a  unique  opportunity  for 
an  almost  complete  survey  of  Spanish  art-styles  from  the  early- 
Christian  days  (sarcophagus  in  the  facade)  down  to  the  baroque 
period.  Even  the  Moorish  mihrab  (?)  is  represented.  The  door  to 
the  cloisters  is,  perhaps,  the  most  notable  pre-Gothio  work  in  marble 
in  the  province. 

Though  it  is  true  that  Romanesque  or  even  quite  rude  figures 
are  found  in  monuments  of  a  pronounced  Gothic  style  as  late  as  the 
14th  cent.,  it  is  none  the  less  true  that  the  Noeth  F&bnch  Stylb 
had  made  its  mark  here  and  there  in  the  second  half  of  the  13th 
century.  Its  entire  development  may  be  followed  from  that  period 
onwards,  often  in  examples  of  undeniable  excellence.  —  Now,  the 
outworn  forms  of  a  tradition  of  a  thousand  years  were  at  last  shaken 
off;  now,  a  modem  style  arose  for  the  first  time  based  upon  a 
genuinely  creative  activity  and  inspired  by  models  taken  from  life ; 
and  now,  for  the  first  time,  it  is  possible  to  hope  for  real  artistic 
delight. 

The  cloisters  and  portals  of  the  cathedral  of  Burgos  form  an  admir- 
able museum  of  French  Gothic  art,  from  the  still  somewhat  stiff 
and  self-conscious  style  of  the  13th  cent.  (Apostles'  Door)  down  to 
the  graceful  ease  of  the  14th  century.  The  exact  dates  are,  however, 
unknown.  Both  dates  and  stone-cutters'  names  are  known  in  the 
case  of  Maestre  Bartolom^s  Apostles  (1278)  at  the  main  door  of  the 
cathedral  of  Tarragona,  which  Caatayls^  a  century  later  (1375), 
could  complete  only  by  clumsy  imitations.  They  are  crude  and  stiff 
as  columns  in  their  attitude,  but  are  not  destitute  of  new  elements 
both  in  features  and  drapery.  Those  in  the  W.  portal  of  S.  Vicente 
dit  AviUt  are   mummy-like  caricatures;  even  tbose  on  the  external 


Goihk  style.  SPANISH  ART.;  Sculpture,    xlvtl 

wall  of  the  ohoir  of  Toledo  Cathedral  are  comparatively  lougk  and 
jejune. 

This  French  style  also  prevailed  in  Navarre  (OUte,  San^&taa, 
EsteUa).  The  Glanstro  of  Pampekma  it  little  inferior  to  that  of 
Bnrgos.  The  style  spread  over  the  vrhole  peninsula.  It  is  seen  at 
onee  in  the  eathedrals  of  Basque  Viioria  and  of  JL«on  and  V<Ueneia 
(N.  portal). 

The  best  of  the  ideal  works  are  the  statues  and  statuettes  of  the 
Madonna.  St.  Ferdinand's  ivory  Yirgen  de  las  Batallas  at  Seville  is, 
perhaps,  the  earliest  work  of  ihia  kind  brought  to  Spain.  Among 
these  Madonnas  are  works  full  of  dignity  and  sweetness,  of  genuine 
beauty  and  plastic  conception.  They  are  to  be  seen  over  the  altars 
of  chapels,  in  gateways,  or  in  large  rotables,  as  at  Tortosa  and  Palma 
(behind  the  modern  altar).  The  cathedral  at  PUueneia  and  many 
other  churcbes  eon  tain  several  images  of  the  Yirgin.  Good  examples 
are  found  at  Toledo,  Siguema,  Oandia,  and  Sagunto.  Gems  among 
smaller  works  of  art  are  the  reliquary  at  Seville,  known  as  the  Tablas 
Alfonsinas  (1274),  and  the  silver  plating  of  the  high-altar  in  the 
cathedral  at  Oerona  (1348). 

Statues  on  tombs  are  very  numerous,  but  down  to  the  middle  of 
the  15th  cent,  they  generally  have  rude,  typical  features.  The 
finest  specimen  of  portrait-sculpture  Is  the  tomb  of  St.  Ferdinand 
and  Beatrice  of  Swabla,  in  the  cloisters  of  Bwgoe.  The  statue  of 
Diego  de  Anaya  (d.  1437),  in  one  of  the  cloister  -  chapels  of  the 
cathedral  at  Salamanca,  is  still  quite  ideal  in  its  treatment  The 
monument  of  Archbp.  Lopez  de  Luna  (d.  1382)  in  the  Seo  ofSarw 
go89a,  is  a  dassieal  masterpiece.  Leon,  Palma,  and  PtUg  are  rleh  in 
similar  monuments. 

In  the  last  third  of  the  16th  cent,  there  took  place  a  RBvoLVTioir 
IN  StyiiB,  helped  by  the  now  widespread  mastery  of  the  technical  part 
of  sculpture.  The  characteristic  features  are  more  emphasized,  the 
gestures  more  spontaneous  and  more  individual.  Waved  lines  give 
place  to  broken  ones,  rounded  surfaces  to  sharp-edged  ones.  The 
realistic  tendency  is,  however,  not  as  yet  marred  by  a  loss  in  in- 
tellectual and  assthetic  content;  so  far  it  rather  heightens  the  faculty 
of  representation. 

We  now  for  the  first  time  find  genuine  portraits,  though  un- 
doubtedly an  attempt  at  portraiture  is  evident  in  many  earlier 
works.  For  those  who  are  more  or  less  conversant  with  Spanish 
history  the  tombs  of  this  period  afford  inexhaustible  entertainment. 
They  present  to  us  with  the  greatest  vitality  and  distinctness  the 
men  of  a  time  when  the  activity  of  the  nation  was  at  its  highest  and 
its  growth  In  full  development.  In  the  long  line  of  tombs  in  the 
great  cathedrals  it  is  often  easy  to  pick  out  one  which,  as  it  were, 
fixes  and  embodies  the  zenith  of  the  nation's  life.  At  Seville  the 
first  perfect  portrait-statue  is  that  of  Archbp.  Juan  de  Cervantes 
(d.  1463),  by  Lorenxo.  Mercadante  de  Breiana, 


xlviil     Sculpture.        SPANISH  ART.     15th  Cent. :  Gothic  Style. 

A  selection  of  the  most  admirable  tombs  would  alone  make  a  long 
list.  A  few  that  may  be  mentioned  are  those  of  the  learned  Bishop 
Alohso  de  Cartagena  (d.  1466),  by  QU  de  Siloe,  in  the  Chapel  of  the 
Visitation  in  the  cathedral  of  Burgos;  Bernardo  Diaz  de  Fuente 
Pelayo  (d.  1492),  in  the  Chapel  of  St.  Anne;  Charles  III.  of  Navarre 
and  his  wife  in  Pampeluna;  Don  Alvaro  de  Luna,  by  Pablo  Ortiz 
(1489),  at  Toledo;  Juan  de  Grado,  at  Zamora;  Card,  de  San  Ens- 
taquio,  in  Sigiienza;  Raymond  Lully,  by  SagrerOy  in  San  Francisco 
at  Palma.  Among  the  numerous  idealized  figures  may  be  mentioned 
the  13  statues  of  the  Chapter  House  at  Tarragona^  those  of  the  LoAJa 
of  Palmay  and  those  in  the  convent-church  of  Ona. 

.  In  the  Mediterranean  districts  where  the  Limousin  dialect  is 
spoken,  the  Influbnob  of  Italy  is  stronger  than  that  of  France. 
After  the  end  of  the  14th  cent,  a  style  beoame  prevalent  here,  which, 
while  clearly  showing  its  Pisan  origin,  has  also  a  distinct  local  flavour. 
The  numerous  retablos  are  generally  of  moderate  size  and  contain 
several  reliefs  enclosed  in  flat  frames  of  rich  Gothic  ornamentation. 
The  insignificant  ohurch  of  San  Lorenzo  at  JUrida  possesses  three 
such  retablos;  there  is  a  good  one  at  Tarragona.-  The  alabaster 
panels  of  the  trascoro  of  the  cathedral  of  VaUneia  (1466)  recall  the 
works  of  Ghiberti.  The  museum  of  Liirida  contains  the  fragments 
of  noble  works  that  bear  testimony  to  the  flourishing  state  of  this 
branch  of  ait  in  Catalonia  at  the  close  of  the  middle  ages.  The 
plastic  talent  of  the  Aragonese,  afterwards  so  astonishingly  illustrated, 
here  already  shows  proofs  of  its  existence.  Great  things  were  ac- 
complished in  the  creation  of  idealistic  and  profoundly  sympathetic 
forms,  which  at  the  same  time  were  completed  with  the  help  of  the 
most  naive  and  individual  studies  of  nature.  At  the  head  of  their 
class  stand  two  works  of  Pere  Johan  de  Tarragona:  the  retablo 
mayor  of  the  cathedral  of  Tarragona,  with  its  colossal  statues  of 
the  Madonna,  St.  Thecla,  and  St.  Paul  (begun  in  1426),  and  that 
of  the  Seo  of  Saragoisa,  with  the  Adoration,  Transfiguration,  and 
Ascension. 

The  Castilian,  Andalusian,  and  Portuguese  works  of  this  period 
present  a  strong  contrast  to  these  creations,  so  simple  in  their  ar- 
rangement and  inspired  by  such  an  Italian  feeling  for  form.  The  dry 
and  meagre  figures,  the  jejune  and  often  even  repellent  conception 
would  be  enough  to  betray  the  presence  of  colonies  of  Nobthbbn 
A&TisTS,  even  if  their  names  were  wanting.  A  classical  example  is 
the  Door  of  the  Lions,  by  Annequfn  de  Egaa  of  Brussels,  in  the 
cathedral  of  Toledo, 

The  principal  works  in  this  genre  of  sculpture  —  low-German 
in  origin  but  quickly  acclimatized  —  are  the  huge  retablos  of  the 
cathedrals  of  Toledo  (by  Enrique  de  Egos  and  Pedro  Oumiei)  and 
Seville  (by  Dancarty  They  represent  a  very  considerable  amount 
of  creative  thought  and  power  of  representation,  and  could  not  be 
overlooked  in  any  satisfactory  history  of  early-Flemish  sculpture. 


Lat€'Gothie  Style.       SPANISH  ART.  Sculpture,     xlix 

The  general  effect  of  these  retablos  is,  howevier,  less  fortun&te ; 
and  an  examination  of  their  details  is  fatiguing.  The  artists  have 
not  divorced  themseWes  from  forms  evolved  for  nse  in  spaces  of  more 
modest  dimensions;  the  desired  amplitade  is  attained  by  the  mere 
multiplication  of  units.  Perhaps  the  most  eminent  of  the  sculptors 
who  worked  at  Seville  was  Juan  Fhenandbz  Albman,  the  creator 
of  the  Pieti.  His  later  works  show  Italian  influence.  More  pleasure 
may  be  obtained  from  a  study  of  the  choir-stalls  by  Nufro  Sanehe% 
(1475),  whose  vein  of  invention  and  humour  recalls  the  masters  of 
Germany.  The  reliefs  and  marquetry- work  of  such  sillerfas  form 
one  of  the  richest  pages  in  the  history  of  carving.  Those  at  Plaseneia^ 
by  Af.  Rodrigo  AUman,  are  marked  by  great  daring.  The  manner 
of  the  low-German  school  is  seldom  more  characteristically  illustrated 
than  in  the  works  of  the  Spanish  Pedro  MUlaUy  the  sculptor  of  the. 
terracotta  statuettes  in  the  two  W.  portals  of  Seville  and  also  of  the 
noble  Yixgen  del  Pilar.  He,  moreover,  furnished  the  models  for  the 
small  figures  on  the  beautiful  portal  of  Santa  Paula,  which  were 
executed  in  the  Robbia  style  by  Nieuloio  of  Pisa,  who  also  made  the 
curious  faience  altar  in  the  Alcazar. 

The  alienation  of  taste  from  the  geometrical  severity  of  Gothic 
art,  the  predilection  for  rich  and  realistic  ornamentation ,  the  ex- 
tension of  the  mental  horizon,  the  fermentation  produced  by  the 
meeting  of  so  many  different  styles,  and  finally  the  increase  in 
technical  dexterity  led  at  the  end  of  the  16th  cent,  to  the  erection 
of  a  group  of  imposing  buildings,  which  no  one  can  regard  with  in- 
difference. They  mirror  that  mighty  outburst  of  national  feeling, 
which  followed  in  the  train  of  a  series  of  unparalleled  events  that 
would  have  fired  the  imagination  of  a  much  more  sluggish  people. 
This  group  includes  the  facades  of  San  Pablo  and  San  Gregorio  at 
ValiadoUdy  the  cloisters  of  the  latter,  the  facades  of  Santa  Cruz  at 
Segovia  and  of  the  Episcopal  Seminary  at  Bctezat  and  the  patio  of 
the  Infantado  Palace  at  Cfuadalajara,  which  resembles  the  creations 
of  the  ^Manoelino'  style  in  Portugal.  Other  examples  are  the  retablo 
of  the  Gartuja  of  Miraflore8^  near  Burgos,  by  Oil  de  SHoe^  with  the 
monuments  of  Juan  n.  and  Isabella  de  Barcelds,  erected  by  their 
daughter  Isabella,  and  the  monument  of  Prince  Alfonso ;  the  monu- 
ment of  F.  de  Padilla  at  Frea  de  VcU^  now  in  Burgos  Museum ;  the 
retablo  of  San  Gil  at  Burgos ;  and  the  trascoro  in  the  cathedral  of 
PaUnieia. 

The  flourishing  and  multiform  plastic  art  of  Spain  in  the  15th 
cent  was  invaded  during  the  last  deoade  of  the  century  by  the  innu- 
merable forms  of  the  early  Italian  Renaissance  \  and,  thanks  to  a 
taste  refined  by  the  busy  practice  of  art,  the  new-comers  were  hailed 
with  acclaim.  The  works  thus  introduced  to  Spain  were  partly  by 
Italian  masters,  who  either  came  to  the  country  or  executed  com- 
missions in  Italy,  and  partly  by  Spanish  masters,  who  learned  their 

Babpsksb's  Spaiq.  d 


1    Sculpture.  SPANISH  ART.  ISih  Century: 

art  In  Italian  studios.  The  commissions  were  mostly  executed  for 
the  Mendozas,  Fonsecas,  Riberas,  Yelascos,  and  other  families, 
to  which  the  ecclesiastical  princes  of  Spain  belonged.  Sculptors 
like  Felipe  Vigami  and  Berruguete^  architects  like  Diego  de  Siloe^ 
Enrique  de  Egos,  and  Alonso  CovarHihicu,  and  goldsmiths  like  the 
Arpkes  created  the  so-called  Flatereiqne  Style  i*,  that  brilliant  ex- 
pression of  the  Spanish  spirit  in  the  time  of  the  *  Catholic  Kings' 
and  Charles  V. 

The  effect  of  this  style  on  those  who  are  susceptible  to  pictorial 
charm  in  architectural  and  plastic  works  may  almost  be  described 
as  dazzling.  It  must,  however,  be  remembered  that  the  associations 
with  the  word  Renaissance  might  easily  lead  to  mistake.  It  is  not 
a  ^new  birth',  for  the  art  affected  was  in  full  possession  of  its  life 
and  creative  faculty;  it  is  simply  a  change  of  dress.  It  is  not  a 
'revival  of  the  past',  for  it  is  really  a  new  departure.  The  pla- 
teresque  style  is  merely  a  metamorphosis  of  the  latest  and  pictorial 
phase  of  Gothic,  just  as  the  latter  may  be  in  some  sense  regarded 
as  a  metamorphosis  of  and  substitute  for  the  Alhambraic  and  Mu- 
d^jar  styles.  The  grammar  of  form  in  these  three  styles  is  as 
distinct  as  possible ;  the  principle  of  covering  superficial  spaces  with 
the  richest,  finest,  and  most  fantastic  ornamentation  is  common  to  all. 

It  must  not  be  assumed  that  the  figure-sculptures  of  the  new 
dispensation  were  on  a  distinctly  higher  plane  than  their  prede- 
cessors. The  new  elements  of  taste  and  study  (e.g,  the  classical 
style,  anatomy)  made  their  way  but  slowly ;  neither  in  observation 
of  nature,  nor  in  expression  and  character,  nor  in  the  gift  of  story- 
telling or  the  power  of  adaptation  to  the  space  at  command,  and  least 
of  all  in  the  harmony  of  its  spirit  with  the  environment,  is  the  Re- 
naissance sculpture  entitled  to  look  down  on  what  had  gone  before 
it.  Indeed  the  Renaissance  of  this  period  is  responsible  for  the 
most  baroque  aberrations  of  taste  that  the  art  has  to  offer. 

The  number  of  works  by  the  early-Renaissance  artists  of  Italy 
that  came  to  Spain  is  not  large.  The  cathedral  at  Badajoz  contains 
a  relief  of  the  Madonna  in  the  style  of  Donatello  (also  to  be  seen 
elsewhere)  and  a  Venetian  brass  with  a  figure  in  relief  of  Diego 
Suarez  de  Figueroa,  the  ambassador.  The  first  and  richest  work  of 
the  Lombard  school  in  Spain  is  the  chateau  of  Calahorra^  near 
Guadix,  built  about  1510  by  the  Marques  del  Zenete.  The  Italian 
marble-cutters  were  mainly  occupied  in  the  production  of  imposing 
Monumental  Tombs.  The  mural  monument  of  Archbishop  Men- 
doza  in  the  cathedral  of  Seville  (Capilla  dela  Antigua)  was  executed 
by  Miguel  of  Florence  about  1509,  and  is  probably  the  quaintest  of 
all  in  its  figures.  By  the  same  artist  is  the  terracotta  relief  over 
the  Puerta  del  Perdon,  representing  in  stormy  fashion  the  Expul- 


t  Estilo  platerescoy  so  called  because  of  the  resemblance  of;its  delicate 
•namentation  to  silver-plate  (plata). 


Platertique  Style.         SPANISH  ART.  8etUpi\Afe.     li 

sion  of  the  Money  Changers  from  the  Temple  and  the  Annunciation 
(1519).  A  similar  work  is  the  monument  of  P.  Gonzalez  de  Men«- 
doza  (d.  1496)  in  the  capilla  mayor  of  the  cathedral  at  ToUdoy  with 
the  Madonna  in  the  lunette.  The  richest  examples  of  this  class,  and 
indeed  of  Renaissance  sculpture  in  general,  are  the  two  Lombardic 
monuments  by  Oenotte  Mcuteri  in  the  University  Church  of  Seville: 
that  of  Pedro  Enriquez  de  Ribera  (d.  149^2),  by  Antonio  de  ApriUy 
and  that  of  his  wife  Catalina,  by  Pace  Oagini.  The  altar  of  the 
Capilla  de  Esealas,  in  the  cathedral,  erected  by  Bait,  de  Rio  in 
1539,  is  also  of  Genoese  workmanship.  The  statues  of  the  Con- 
stable, and  his  wife  at  Burgot  are  mainly  admirable  for  the  in- 
dustry displayed  in  the  representation  of  their  dress.  The  cathedral 
of  JtfKrcia,  the  tower  of  which,  built  by  Card.  Matthias  Lang, 
transports  us  into  the  time  of  Pope  Julius  II.,  contains  a  large 
relief  of  the  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds;  the  figure  of  the  Virgin 
in  the  baptistery  is  later. 

There  is  a  whole  series  of  monuments  of  prime  historical  interest 
in  which  all  the  forms  and  motives  of  this  style  are  represented : 
—  medallion-reliefs,  statuettes,  garlands  of  fruit,  winged  lions  and 
griffins  at  the  comers.  These  various  details  were  often  executed  by 
specialists  of  unequal  skill  under  the  superintendence  of  one  artist- 
ia-chief.  Dombnioo  Fajtobl!.!  of  Florence  was  summoned  to 
execute  the  monument  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella  in  the  Capilla 
Real  at  Oranada  and  that  of  their  only  son,  Don  Juan  (d.  1497),  in 
the  church  of  St.  Thomas  at  Avila,  The  latter  is  distinguished  by 
the  purity  and  beauty  of  its  style.  Perhaps  by  the  same  hand,  and 
certainly  of  the  same  school,  are  the  Altar  of  St.  Catharine  and  the 
seated  figure  of  Bishop  Alfonso  Tostado  de  Madrigal  (d.  1465)  in 
the  cathedral  of  AvUa.  These  monuments  met  with  such  approval 
that  the  executors  of  Card.  Ximenez  (d.  1517)  decided  to  employ 
the  same  artist  for  that  statesman's  monument  in  the  chapel  of  the 
university  at  Alcald.  On  Fancelli's  death  the  execution  of  this  work 
was  entrusted  to  Babtolom^  Obdonbz,  who  resided  usually  at 
Barcelona  but  undertook  this  task  at  Carrara,  with  the  help  of  Ita- 
lians. Ordo&ez  died  in  1520  at  Carrara  and  left  three  other  un- 
finished monuments,  which  were  completed  by  Italian  marmorari 
and  shipped  to  Spain.  One  of  these  was  that  of  Philip  the  Hand- 
some and  Juana  la  Loca  in  the  Capilla  Real  at  Oranada,  Similar 
works  are  the  monument  of  Archbp.  Alfonso  de  Fonseca  (d.  1512) 
in  the  Ursuline  church  at  Salamanca  (now  pulled  down),  the  four 
Fonseca  monuments  at  Coea^  and  the  monument  of  Francisco  Ra- 
mirez and  Doiia  Beatrice  in  the  Concepcion  Jer6nima  at  Madrid, 
There  are  two  fine  reliefs  by  OrdoHez,  whom  Francisco  de  Holanda 
called  the  ^Eagle  of  Relief ,  on  the  trascoro  of  the  cathedral  of  Bar^ 
eelona ,  which  promised  to  be  a  Spanish  counterpart  of  the  Cap- 
pella  del  Santo  in  Padua,  but  unfortunately  remained  a  fragment. 
Other'contemporary  Lombard  masters  are  authors  of  the  monument 

d* 


lii     Sculpture.  SPANISH  ART.  16th  Century: 

of  Bishop  Albornoz  of  Avilafd.  1614),  in  the  cathedial  of  Toledo,  of 
Bishop  Francisco  Ruiz  (d.  1528),  in  the  church  of  San  Juan  de  la 
Penltencia  in  the  same  city,  and  of  the  altar  with  the  monuments 
of  the  Ayala  family  in  San  Lorenzo  at  Santiago, 

Deoosatite  Sculpture  was,  as  might  have  been  expected  from 
the  Oriental  bent  of  the  national  taste,  that  branch  of  the  art  in  which 
the  new  style  was  adopted  with  the  most  ardour  and  most  speedily 
practised  by  native  artists.  The  facades,  doorways,  and  windows  of 
Gothic  buildings  were  used  as  fields  for  the  application  of  Renaissance 
ornamentation,  the  forms  of  which  were  at  first  akin  to  the  beautiful 
and  Intelligent  style  of  the  early  Renaissance  in  Lombardy.  The 
spring  of  invention  seemed  inexhaustible;  there  are  hardly  two 
buildings  decorated  on  the  same  system.  The  college  of  Santa  Cruz 
in  Valladolid  (1480-92)  and  the  hospital  of  the  same  name  In  Toledo 
(1504),  both  by  Enrique  i>b  Egas  of  Brussels,  are  the  earliest 
known  monuments  of  the  style.  The  greatest,  however,  of  the 
foreigners  who  made  the  Renaissance  style  at  home  in  Spain  was 
a  Burgundian,  Philip  Vigabni,  surnamed  db  Borgona  (d.  1543). 
He  received  his  training  as  a  carver  of  images  in  France,  and  it 
was  by  travelling  that  he  acquired  his  knowledge  of  the  forms  of 
the  Italian  style  and  his  insight  into  their  grace  and  dignity.  He 
seems  to  have  made  his  first  appearance  in  Spain  at  Burgos^  where 
he  executed  the  many-figured  reliefs  of  the  Passion  on  the  trascoro, 
perhaps  the  most  pregnant  work  of  this  period  of  transition.  A 
kindred  work  by  an  unknown  hand  is  the  rotable  of  the  Oonstable^s 
Chapel,  which  charms  by  its  naive  realism  and  the  beauty  of  its 
heads.  The  choir-stalls  (1507)  seem  to  be  the  first  example  of  the 
^grotesque'  style.  In  the  dome,  with  its  statues,  Vigarnf  appears  in 
the  capacity  of  architect.  Later  he  was  employed  by  Card.  Ximenez 
in  the  choir  of  the  cathedral  of  Toledo,  and  designed  the  retablo 
of  the  Capilla  Real  at  Oranada,  The  facade  of  the  lunatic  asylum 
in  the  latter  city  (1536)  is  in  the  same  style.  —  The  palace  of 
Charles  V.  in  the  Alhanibra,  begun  in  1526,  is  a  work  of  the  Spa- 
niard Pedro  Machuca.  The  ornate  S.  portal  was  executed  by  Niecolb 
da  Corte  of  Genoa ;  the  N.  portal  exhibits  the  sober  style  of  Herrera. 

The  forms  of  the  15th  cent,  were  quickly  superseded  by  those  of 
the  Orotesqne  Style  or  Estilo  Monstrnoso.  The  works  of  this  style 
are  characterized  by  an  Inexhaustible  fantasy,  a  rhythmical  stream 
of  movement,  a  unity  of  general  effect  combined  with  a  constant  flux 
of  motives,  ebullient  vitality,  and  a  whimsical  use  of  details  bor- 
rowed from  natural  history.  Diego  db  Silob  (d.  1563),  the  most 
honoured  architect  of  the  early-Spanish  Renaissance,  was  also  one 
of  its  most  able  decorative  artists.  The  Escala  Dorada  of  Archbp. 
Fonseca,  in  the  N.  transept  of  the  cathedral  of  Burgos  (1519),  the 
monument  of  Bishop  Acufia,  and  the  retablo  of  the  chapel  of  St.  Anne 
are  all  by  him.  His  activity,  however,  found  its  chief  field  in  Oranada 
(1529  et  seq.).    The  transept  and  the  cloister-portals  of  San  Jer6- 


Grotesque  StyU,  SPANISH  ART.  Sculpture,    liil 

nimo,  the  olmrcli  of  the  Gran  Oapltan,  and  some  of  the  doors  of  the 
cathedral  were  the  models  for  numerous  facades  and  portals  (sueh 
as  that  of  Santa  Ana)  to  which  Granada  owes  not  a  little  of  its  pic- 
toreaqne  physiognomy. 

So  numerous  are  the  examples  of  this  taste  that  it  is  difficult  to 
make  even  a  small  selection  of  the  most  excellent.  SerHUe  is  the 
richest  field  of  the  style.  The  city-hall  (begun  by  Diego  dt  Riaifio  in 
1627)  is  one  of  its  finest  monuments ;  every  detail  of  its  ornament 
and  every  statue  repay  inspection.  For  interiors  of  importance,  such 
as  the  sacristy  and  the  royal  chapel  in  the  cathedral,  a  new  scheme 
of  decoration  was  devised,  in  which  the  main  emphasis  was  laid  on  the 
statuary.  In  addition  to  the  reliefs  in  friezes  and  on  the  shafts  of 
pilasters,  the  soffits  of  the  arches,  the  spandrels,  the  half-domes, 
and  the  domes  were  all  covered  with  statues.  In  the  last  case  they 
were  arranged  as  radiating  from  the  centre.  These  light  and  colour- 
less rooms,  enlivened  with  a  world  of  fantastic,  historical,  and  sacred 
forms,  are  the  triumph  of  the  Spanish  enthusiasm  for  the  plastic 
art.  The  Gapilla  Real  was  designed  by  Martin  Oaima  in  1641.  Its 
walls  are  articulated  with  massive  pilasters,  resembling  candelabra; 
the  apse  and  dome  are  adorned  with  coffers  and  busts.  The  sacristy 
was  erected  by  the  same  artist  after  a  plan  by  Riafio.  A  remarkable 
analogy  in  another  domain  of  art  is  afforded  by  the  bronze  ten- 
ebrario  with  its  16  statuettes.  The  barrel-vaulting  of  the  sacristy  of 
the  cathedral  of  Siguenaia  is  adorned  with  rosettes  and  with  300  heads, 
no  one  of  which  is  a  repetition  of  another  —  probably  the  'bravura 
piece'  of  the  principle  of  versatility.  The  pulpit  of  the  same  church 
is  one  of  the  best  of  the  style  in  Spain. 

In  other  towns  of  Andalusia  may  be  mentioned  the  facade  of 
Santa  Maria  at  Ubeda,  by  Valdelviraj  with  a  sacristy  in  the  style  of 
that  of  Seyille,  and  the  town-hall  of  JerS%,  by  Andris  de  Ribera, 
The  N.  facade  of  the  transept  of  the  cathedral  of  Plasencia  belongs 
to  the  same  class. 

In  Castile  the  classic  places  are  Salamanca^  Alcald  de  Henares^ 
and  Cuenea.  Though  many  of  the  monumental  buildings  of  ScUa^ 
manea  were  destroyed  in  the  War  of  Liberation,  that  city  still  pos- 
sesses San  Est^an,  the  Espiritu  Santo,  the  Colegio  del  Arzobispo, 
and  the  Casa  de  las  Conchas.  The  gem  of  the  style  is  the  facade  of 
the  university,  vrith  its  medallion-portraits  of  Ferdinand  and  Isa- 
bella. A  curious  feature  is  the  correction  of  the  perspective  by  in- 
creasing the  scale  of  tha  ornamental  details  towards  the  top.  Aleald 
shows  itself  the  peer  of  Salamanca  in  the  College  of  Card.  Ximenez, 
by  Alonao  de  CovarrUbku.  The  same  artist  is  responsible  for  the 
archiepiscopal  palace  at  AlcaU  and  the* chapel  of  the  Reyes  Nuevos 
and  the  Alcazar  at  Toledo,  The  wooden  doors  of  the  Portal  of  the 
Lions  at  Toledo  Cathedral  were  carved  by  Diego  Copvn  Hhe  Dutch^ 
man\  while  the  bronze  outside  is  by  Francisco  de  Villalpando.  Thr 
doors  and  cabinets  of  the  sacristy  are  by  Quillen.  More  imposing  i 


11 V    Sculpture.  SPANISH  ART.  16th  Century: 

conception  and  delicately  fanciful  in  detail  are  the  works  of  Xamete 
in  the  cathedral  of  Cuenca  (1646),  the  carved  doors  of  which  may 
be  described  as  Flemish  pictures  in  wood.  A  group  of  artists  were 
busy  under  Juan  de  Badajoz  at  Leon  (convent  of  San  Marcos)  and 
Carrion  de  los  Condes.  The  style  was  introduced  to  Santiago  through 
the  Fomecas.  Madrid^  also,  has  a  specimen  of  the  style,  though 
not  one  of  its  masterpieces,  in  the  Capilla  del  Obispo  in  the  church 
of  San  Andres  (monument  and  retablo,  1624-36). 

The  Inplubncb  op  Michael  Angelo  is  perceptible  even  in  the 
first  epoch  of  the  Spanish  Renaissance,  but  in  the  second  half  of 
the  16th  cent,  it  attained  a  height  elsewhere  unknown  out  of  Italy. 
His  works  appealed  to  the  Spanish  feeling  for  the  serious,  the 
dignified,  and  the  deeply  iemotional.  The  name  of  AIoubo  Ber- 
rngnete  (ca.  1480-1661),  thanks  to  his  position  at  the  court  of 
Charles  V.  in  Valladolid,  has  become  typical  for  this  whole  period, 
and  especially  for  the  Grotesque  Style,  though  that  was  known  in 
Spain  (1520)  at  least  twelve  years  before  his  return.  Of  his  stay 
in  Italy  we  know  little  beyond  a  casual  mention  in  the  letters  of 
Michael  Angelo  relating  to  the  Pisan  cartoon.  Like  other  wander- 
ing artists,  however,  he  seems  to  have  been  very  susceptible  to  the 
strongest  artistic  influences  of  the  country  he  visited.  He  com- 
pleted a  St.  Jerome  by  Filippino  Lippi ;  his  paintings  show  that  he 
was  an  admirer  of  Raphael's  grace.  Some  of  his  sculptures  (in  the 
church  of  his  native  town,  Paredes  de  Nava^  reveal  him  as  a  student 
of  the  antique ;  his  St.  Leocadia,  now  at  the  little  church  of  £1 
Cristo  de  la  Vega  at  Toledo,  is  a  reproduction  of  a  Muse.  In  the 
bust  of  Juanelo,  the  engineer,  and  in  the  statue  of  St.  Secundus 
(Avila)  he  appears  as  a  maker  of  portraits  in  marble.  In  the  interim 
he  fell  into  the  most  extravagant  mannerism,  and  his  statuettes  at 
San  Benito  in  Valladolid  are  like  the  creations  of  a  madman.  In  all 
these  works  his  personality  appears  to  us  in  faltering  outlines.  But 
his  chief  work,  the  alabaster  statuettes  in  the  core  (Epistle  side ; 
1648)  of  the  cathedral  of  Toledo,  shows  how  deeply  he  had  steeped 
himself  in  the  spirit  of  Michael  Angelo.  His  power  of  inventing 
expressive  attitudes,  arranged  according  to  the  principle  of  contra- 
position, marks  him  as  far  superior  to  the  monotonous  and  exhausted 
Borgoiia,  A  similar  vein  of  fertility  is  shown  in  the  countenances  of 
the  busts  with  which  he  adorned  the  court  of  the  Colegio  del  Arzo- 
bispo  at  Salamanca.  The  monument  of  Archbp.  Tavera  in  the  Afuera 
Hospital  at  Toledo  was  finished  after  the  death  of  the  subject,  and 
the  head  was  modelled  from  a  death-mask.  The  scenes  on  the 
sarcophagus  are  examples  of  a  then  widely  current  and  mannered 
style  of  bas-relief,  which  was  probably  derived  from  a  study  of  Dona- 
tello.  Of  a  similar  nature  are  the  rich  wooden  panels  in  the  sacristy 
of  Murcia  (1526).  Probably  the  most  admirable  work  of  this  style 
is  the  many-figured  alabaster  retablo  of  St.  Barbara  in  the  sacristy 
of  the  cathedral  of  Avila,  in  which  the  Scourging  of  Christ  is  the 


Clrote$que  Style,  SPANISH  ART.  Sculpture.     Iv 

main  group.  Its  perfect  technieal  finish  would  seem  to  indicate 
Berrngaete  himself  as  the  author.  As  graceful  examples  of  smaller 
sculptures  may  be  instanced  the  lecterns  (atrlles)  by  Nie,  de  Ver- 
gara  and  his  son,  in  the  choir  of  the  cathedral  of  Toledo^  and  the 
chorister's  desk  (faoistol)  by  Bart.  Morel  (1670),  at  SevUle. 

The  most  famous  of  the  wandering  artists  of  this  period  IsPibtko 
ToRBiGiAm  or  Tobbioiano,  the  Italian  sculptor  to  whom  England 
owes  the  monument  of  Henry  YII.  in  Westminster  Abbey.  In  Spain 
the  figure  of  a  penitent  St.  Jerome,  now  in  SeoUle  Jtfu«etim,  is  as- 
cribed to  him ;  and  this  Imposing  monument  served  the  Andalusian 
sculptors  in  some  sort  as  a  canon  for  the  delineation  of  muscles  and 
for  proportions.  The  group  in  the  church  of  the  Hospital  del  Saugre 
at  Seville  and  the  Garidad  in  Oranada  Caihedtal  are  by  artists  whose 
names  have  not  yet  been  discovered.  The  crucifix  of  Benvenato 
CdUni  in  the  Eteorial  was  a  gift  of  the  Grand-Duke  of  Tuscany. 
By  far  the  most  important  work  of  the  Italian  Renaissance  in  Spain, 
and  also  the  masterpiece  of  its  author,  is  the  monument  of  the 
Viceroy  Raimund  Gardona  by  Giotanui  da  Nola,  in  the  church  of 
BeUpuig,  near  Ltfrida. 

The  contemporaries  of  Philip  II.  paid  homage  to  the  cinque- 
cento  style  in  its  severest  fdrm ,  and  eschewed  all  ornamentation. 
The  importation  of  Italian  works  went  on  under  his  successors,  but 
merely  for  the  use  of  the  court.  The  needs  of  the  church  were  sup- 
plied by  the  resuscitation  of  the  national  art  of  wood-carving.  The 
Milanese  artists  LBONsLBoyi(Arezzo)  and  his  sonPoMPSO  furnished 
the  Egeorial  with  its  statues  of  GharlesV.,  Philip  II.,  and  their 
families,  and  with  the  figures  of  saints  at  the  high-altar.  Aramiuiii 
shows  fountains  by  Aloabbi  and  others.  In  the  17th  cent.  Madrid 
was  enriched  by  the  large  bronze  equestrian  statues  of  Philip  III. 
and  Philip  IV.,  by  Pielro  Tacea^  a  pupil  of  Giovanni  da  Bologna. 
These,  however,  exercised  no  influence  on  Spanish  art. 

Among  the  smaller  specimens  of  the  sculptor's  art  the  first  rank 
is  taken  by  the  Gustodias  (monstrances,  pyxes),  which  almost  no 
large  city-church  in  Spain  is  without.  These  are  idealistic,  tower- 
like  structures,  in  which  the  architectonic  fancy  of  the  metal-worker 
could  find  scope  unhampered  by  constructive  conditions,  ^3ne  of 
the  largest  and  purest  in  style  (Gothic)  is  that  in  Qerona;  that  in  the 
cathedral  of  Barcelona  is  less  important.  The  16th  cent,  was,  how- 
ever, the  classic  period  of  this  branch  of  the  silversmith's  art.  All 
the  nuances  of  the  style  during  this  century  may  be  studied  In  the 
castodias,  still  mostly  preserved,  executed  by  the  Abpheb,  a  Spanish 
family  of  German  origin.  Enbiqub  Akphb  is  responsible  for  those 
in  Cordova  (1513),  Toledo  (1624),  and  Sahagvn.  His  son  Antonio 
adopted  the  plateresque  style  (Santiago^  1544;  Medina  de  Rioseco). 
The  most  celebrated  member  of  the  family  was ,  however ,  Juan 
(b.  1623),  grandson  of  Enrique,  the  creator  of  the  custodlas  of  Avila 
(1571),  SevilU  (1680-87),  and  Valladolid  (1590).    He  was  also  th 


IVi     Sculpture,  .   SPANISH  ART.  16th  Century: 

autHor  of  a  didactic  poem  (Varia  ConmensuTacion;  Seville,  1585). 
The  custodia  of  Palencia,  by  Juan  de  Benavente  (1582),  is  in  the 
late-Renaissance  style.    The  largest  in  Spain  is  that  of  Cadiz, 

A  curious  page  in  the  history  of  sculpture  is  filled  by  the  King- 
dom of  Aragon.  No  other  Instance  is  known  of  a  land  where  sculps 
ture  flourished  so  long  while  the  sister-art  of  painting  was  prac- 
tically neglected.  The  continuous  development  of  the  art  through 
four  generations  is  also  unusual  for  Spain.  We  can  here  trace  the 
transition  from  the  later  mediaBval  style,  with  its  solemn  serious- 
ness and  dignified  realism,  to  the  sensuous  feeling  for  beauty  of  the 
Italian  Renaissance ;  we  can  farther  note  the  influence  of  the  great 
forms  of  antique  art  and  of  the  violent  poses  of  Michael  Angelo, 
and  finally  study  an  acclimated  national  style  built  up  of  all  these 
elements,  of  which  the  base  is  formed  at  one  time  of  strong  emotion, 
at  another  of  a  cold  and  measured  dignity.  The  ornamental  element 
here  remains  somewhat  in  the  background,  but  this  province  shared 
in  the  general  enthusiasm  for  the  ^grotesque  style',  as  is  evinced, 
e.ff.y  in  the  Casa  Zaporta  at  Saragossa  (1550). 

The  most  prominent  figure  in  the  Aragonese  school,  and  one  of 
the  greatest  sculptors  of  Spain,  was  Damian  Fobmbnt  (d.  1533), 
said  to  be  a  native  of  Valencia,  where  he  appears  as  one  of  the 
purest  representatives  of  the  Italian  taste.  His  short  career  gave 
him  time  for  only  two  large  works  in  alabaster,  and  of  these  only 
one  shows  him  in  the  maturity  of  his  power.  In  the  retablo  of  the 
Virgen  del  Pilar  at  Swagoisa  (1511),  with  its  three  large  groups, 
and  a  predella  containing  seven  smallet  ones,  it  is  evident  that  his 
talent  is  still  plastic ;  between  the  two  parts  of  the  work  he  has  made 
a  complete  revolution  in  style.  The  larger  groups  (Birth,  Purifi- 
cation, and  Assumption  of  the  Yirgin)  are  characterized  by  a  bold 
and  candid  realism ;  the  figures  are  heavy  and  closely  packed ;  the 
drapery  is  painfully  studied.  It  is  obviously  intended  as  a  contrast 
to  the  emaciated  and  spiritual  forms  of  the  Gothic  style  and  to 
eclipse  the  retablo  in  the  sister-church  of  La  Seo.  In  the  predella, 
on  the  other  hand,  we  are  surprized  to  meet  a  free  style  marked  by 
cool  and  smooth  elegance,  cheerful  and  beautiful  forms,  rounded 
ovals,  light  and  clinging  drapery,  melting  charm,  and  perspicuous 
grouping.  This  complete  change  was  explained  by  his  contemporaries 
as  being  due  to  the  return  of  Berruguete  from  Italy.  —  The  second 
retablo,  at  Huesca,  is  marked  by  a  wholly  modern  vein  of  refined 
and  sensuous  charm,  such  as  obtains  in  scarcely  any  other  work  of 
Spanish  art.  Master  Damian  appears  to  have  possessed  not  only 
the  classic  training  of  the  Humanists,  but  also  their  self-apprecia- 
tion ;  he  calls  himself  *the  rival  of  Phidias  and  Praxiteles*,  and  the 
fact  that  he  was  allowed  the  unheard-of  privilege  of  inserting  life- 
size  medallions  of  himself  and  his  wife  in  the  base  of  both  works 
hows  that  the  popular  estimation  of  him  coincided  with  his  own. 


Developed  BenaUsanee^      SPANISH  ABT.  Sculpture,     Mi 

The  solemnity  of  the  scenes  of  the  Passion  is,  as  it  were,  veiled 
hy  the  sense  of  the  beautiful  and  the  pleasing  that  prevails  in  these 
groups.  He  seems  to  have  paid  little  attention  to  the  decorative 
part  of  the  work ;  and  the  frame  is  in  the  Gothic  style. 

Alongside  of  Fonnent  stands  DntQo  Moblambs,  who  completed 
the  portal  of  the  convent-church  of  Santa  Engraoia  at  Saragossa, 
begun  by  his  father  Juan  in  1505.  It  is  adorned  with  nobly  indi- 
vidualized statues  of  the  Madoifna  and  the  ^Catholic  Kings*,  and  is 
conceived,  both  as  to  figures  and  ornamentation,  in  a  style  of  classic 
dignity.  The  Chapel  of  St.  Bernard  in  the  Seo,  with  the  monument 
of  Archbp.  Fernando  de  Aragon  and  his  mother,  is  the  best  example 
of  his  opulent  style,  in  which  the  figures  and  the  decoration,  fancy 
and  realism,  the  ideal  and  the  individual  all  receive  a  well-balanced 
measure  of  attention.  Different  hands  are,  however,  recognizable 
in  the  execution ;  the  tomb  of  the  bishop  is  perhaps  by  Ferment, 
the  Last  Judgment  in  the  lunette  is  ascribed  to  Beeerra.  The  works 
of  TudelUla  (trascoro)  are  plastic  decoration  of  a  mannered  and 
professional  stamp,  with  a  mingling  of  the  sacred  and  the  profane. 

The  church  of  the  convent  of  Pdblet  was  once  a  treasure-house 
of  mediaeval  and  modern  sculptures.  Since  1835,  however,  this 
miracle  of  princely  piety  and  pomp  has  been  merely  a  monument 
of  a  suicidal  lust  for  destruction.  A  few  works  were  carried  off 
safely  to  Tarragona.  The  lower  part  of  the  enormous  alabaster  re- 
tablo  of  1525  has  been  sadly  mutilated.  Fresher  and  more  attract- 
ive is  the  sumptuous  portal  of  the  church  of  the  Yirgin  at  Calatayud 
(1528),  by  Juan  de  Talavera  and  Etietme  Vtray. 

After  the  middle  of  the  16th  cent,  a  style  was  evolved  which 
corresponded  more  or  less  to  the  Developed  BenaiMance  of  Italy. 
From  the  point  of  view  of  art  Aragon  and  Castile  now  form  one 
large  territory.  This  epoch  was  marked  by  a  revolution  in  ecclesiast- 
ical taste  that  is  peculiar  to  Spain.  The  enthusiasm  for  figure 
sculpture  almost  wholly  expelled  the  decorative  element,  while  at 
the  same  time  the  predilection  for  bulk  and  multiplicity  of  detail 
continued  to  increase.  One  result  of  this  was  that  stone-carving 
was  practically  abandoned,  and  the  artist  confined  himself  almost 
exclusively  to  Wood  (pine,  cedar,  linden,  larch)  as  a  cheaper  and 
more  easily  worked  material.  Colouring  was  not  used  at  first.  The 
plateresque  style  had  created  its  most  brilliant  productions  in  An- 
dalusia and  New  Castile,  but  in  the  new  style  it  was  N.  Spain 
(Navarre,  the  Basque  Provinces,  Old  Castile,  Galicia)  that  came  to 
the  front.  Now  arose  those  huge  Rbtablos,  which  cover  a  choir 
wall  reaching  up  to  the  vaulting  with  a  Jacob's  Ladder  of  statues. 
All  that  had  been  expressed  in  the  14-15th  cent,  by  small  painted 
groups  and  panels  was  now  translated  into  lifeslze  statues  and  into 
the  dialect  of  those  massive  forms  which  the  free  marble  sculpture 
of  Italy  had  created. 


lYiii     Sculpture.  SPANISH  ART.  leth  Century: 

A  view  of  these  astonishing  works,  to  wMoh  the  whole  art  of 
the  period  in  N.  Spain  was  devoted,  suggests  many  far-reaching 
reflections.  The  church  had  begun  by  being  suspioious  of  plastic 
representations,  and  in  the  Christian  Byzantine  empire  of  the  £. 
painting  had  been  the  orthodox  art.  Now,  in  the  extreme  W. ,  a 
state  of  things  had  come  to  pass  in  which,  probably  as  a  reaction 
against  Islam's  hostility  to  images,  an  almost  exclusive  preference 
was  given  by  the  church  to  the  art 'of  sculpture. 

One  of  the  most  remarkable  examples  of  this  adaptation  of  the 
medieval  reredos  to  the  forms  of  modern  Italian  sculpture  is  the 
retablo  of  Tafalla  in  Navarre,  by  Miguel  de  Ancheta.  This  contains 
35  statues  and  groups,  in  which  all  stages  of  relief  are  employed 
with  great  technical  dexterity.  Studies  of  ancient  statues  are  here 
combined  with  ^contrasts'  in  the  style  of  Michael  Angelo  and  in- 
stances of  exaggerated  emotion  in  mien  and  gesture.  These  qualities 
are  in  part  even  more  strongly  accentuated  in  jthe  retablo  of  Cas- 
cante,  by  Pedro  OonzaUsi  de  San  Pedro  and  Ambrosio  de  Bengoeehea, 
San  Vicente  in  San  Sebastian  contains  some  noteworthy  statues  by 
the  last-named  artist. 

In  Castile  perhaps  the  most  noted  carver  in  wood  was  Oaspab 
Becbera  (1520-70),  a  painter  and  sculptor,  who,  like  his  pre- 
decessor Berruguete,  had  spent  many  years  in  Rome,  working  under 
Vasari  in  the  Cancellerfa  and  under  Daniele  da  Volterra  in  the 
Trinitk  de'  Monti.  He  was  also  a  learned  anatomist  and  furnished 
the  plates  for  Valverde's  Anatomy  (Rome,  1554).  On  his  return  to 
Spain  he  painted  frescoes  in  the  Royal  Palace  and  the  Pardo  at 
Madrid^  but  his  chief  works  were  in  the  field  of  sculpture.  In  the 
retablo  of  the  Descalzas  Reales,  of  which  his  designs  only  remain 
to  us,  the  three  arts  were  represented  in  about  equal  measure.  His 
masterpiece  is  the  retablo  of  Astorga  (1558-69).  His  chief  merits 
are  an  ideal  beauty  and  dignity,  and  a  happy  knack  in  pleasing  the 
eye;  in  expression  and  composition  he  is  less  satisfactory,  and  he 
made  Michael  Angelo  and  the  antique  the  substitutes  for  a  study  of 
nature.  His  Asunta  is  a  Niobe,  his  Cardinal  Virtues  are  modelled 
on  the  Day  and  Night  of  the  Medici  Chapel.  This  imposing  work  is 
a  good  example  of  the  discreet  'estofado'  painting,  which  was  resus- 
citated after  the  colourless  episode  of  the  Renaissance.  Of  kindred 
spirit  is  the  retablo  of  Burgos  (1577-93),  by  Rodrigo  and  Martin 
de  Haya. 

Perhaps  the  boldest  erection  of  this  kind  is  the  retablo  of  Santa 
Clara  at  Briviesca^  begun  by  Diego  OuUlen  in  1526,  completed  by 
Pedro  Lopez  de  Qamit  of  Miranda ;  but  that  of  St.  Casilda,  in  the 
colegiata  of  the  same  place,  is  finer  in  detail.  For  the  retablo  of 
San  Asensio  in  the  Rioja  the  main  group  of  the  Last  Judgment  in 
the  Sistine  Chapel  was  translated  into  sculpture  by  Pedro  Arbulo 
Marguvete  (1569).  Another  Maestre  Guillen  furnished  the  retablo 
if  Cdeerea  and  the  doors  and  cabinets  of  the  sacristy  of  Seville, 


Developed  Renaisaanee,     SPANISH  ART.  Seutptwe.     lix 

The  mneh  over-estimated  Juan  de  Juni  (d.  ca.  1686),  who  came 
to  Yalladolid  from  Oporto  and  Osma,  earried  the  Miohael  Angelo 
cnlt  into  the  realm  of  distortion  and  caricature.  His  successor, 
GsBGoBio  Hbbvakdbz  of  Galieia  (1566-1636),  warned  by  Juni's 
extravagances,  studied  nature  with  great  care  and  puiged  the  plastic 
art  of  these  scholastic  mannerisms.  His  works  at  Yalladolid  and 
elsewhere  deserve  our  admiration  for  their  simplicity,  nobility  of 
form,  perspicuity,  and  depth  of  feeling.  EaUban  Jordan  was  a  fol- 
lower of  moderate  talent  This  school  of  sculptors  was  essentially 
aristocratic  but  remained  in  touch  with  the  deyout  multitude  by 
its  groups  from  the  Passion  (VaUadoUd  Museum), 

In  SByiu:.B,  as  in  Andalusia  in  general,  the  imposing  works  of 
the  plateresque  style  and  the  Italianizing  school  of  painting  had 
forced  the  more  popular  style  of  sculpture  into  the  background.  It 
was  not  until  the  Renaissance  had  died  out,  about  the  beginning 
of  the  17th  cent.,  that  a  resuscitation  of  the  medieval  polychrome 
sculpture  took  place.  This  was  due  to  the  energy  of  one  man, 
Mastikbk  MoNTANifo  (d.  1649),  whose  numerous  works  form  a 
prime  element  In  the  picture  of  artistic  and  ecclesiastical  Seville. 
In  the  works  of  this  master  and  his  school  every  trace  of  the  Italian 
style,  with  its  mixture  of  Biblical  Christianity  and  fantastic  pa- 
ganism, has  vanished.  Their  art  is  the  result  of  an  essentially  Spanish 
attitude  of  mind,  while  the  sense  of  form  through  which  it  is  ex- 
pressed is  probably  peculiar  to  Seville.  Among  its  characteristics 
are  the  earnest  and  melancholy  heads  with  their  classical  features, 
the  slender  and  well-built  figures,  the  quiet  dignity,  and  the  bril- 
liant painting  in  oil,  shimmering  with  gold  yet  used  with  discre- 
tion. Such  a  flat  treatment  of  the  colouring  as  is  exemplified  by 
Pacheeo  (p.  Ixvii)  occurs  but  seldom.  The  statues  are  usually  placed 
In  niches  framed  in  restrained  cinquecento  ornamentation.  In 
purity  of  taste  and  artistic  harmony  they  probably  surpass  all  other 
works  of  their  class;  in  life,  fancy,  and  individuality  they  are, 
however,  inferior  to  those  already  named.  The  most  successful  of 
all  are  the  single  statues  by  Montafltfs.  Some  of  the  best  and  most 
characteristic  of  these  are  in  the  museum  {e.g,  St.  Dominic)  and  in 
the  cathedral  (Madonna,  Crucifix).  Of  rarer  occurrence  are  large 
groups  in  relief  (Jerif)  and  portrait-statues  (Guzman  el  Bueno  and 
Ms  wife  at  Santiponce),  The  figures  of  the  Jesuit  fathers,  St.  Igna- 
tius and  St.  Francis  Xavler,  in  the  University  Church,  are  idealized 
portraits,  marked  by  noble  severity  of  form  and  pathos  of  expres- 
sion. To  the  people  Montafi<^s  appealed  most  forcibly  in  his  groups 
from  tike  Passion  (pasoa)^  which  were  carried  in  the  processions  of 
Holy  Week. 

The  large  and  numerous  works  of  his  contemporaries  and  imi- 
tators, like  RoldcBii,  Delgado,  and  JerihUmo  Hemandet,  produce  a 
purely  material  effect 

Among  the  pupils  of  Montafi^s  in  the  art  of  sculpture  wa^ 


Ix     Sculpture.  SPANISH  ART.      17th  and  18th  Cent, : 

Alonbo  Cano  (1601-67),  whose  early  works  (e,g,  in  Santa  Paula) 
are  very  similar  to  those  of  his  master,  though  a  degree  warmer  and 
unapproached  in  delicacy  of  treatment  and  colouring.  His  large 
and  small  Conceptions  (sacristy  of  Oranada)  are  reproductions  of 
the  same  originals.  The  head  of  St.  Paul  and  the  busts  of  Adam 
and  five  in  the  same  place  and  the  St.  Antony  in  San  Nicolas  of 
Murcia  are  gems  of  polychrome  sculpture. 

Cano  found  several  successors  in  Geanada.  Josi  de  Mora  (1638- 
1725),  in  contrast  to  the  somewhat  unindividualized  and  monotonous 
expression  of  Montafi^s,  carried  the  religious  pathos  in  his  plastic 
figures  almost  to  the  verge  of  the  painful.  In  some  cases,  such  as 
his  Mater  Dolorosa  and  his  statue  of  St.  Juan  de  Dios  (p-.  346),  the 
result  is  successful ;  in  many,  however,  his  lank  figures  and  doleful 
miens  make  an  impression  of  tiresome  mannerism.  Pedro  de  Mbna 
(d.  1693)  of  Granada,  on  the  other  hand,  excelled  all  the  artists 
already  named  in  Invention  and  graphic  power  (£1  Angel  at  &ra- 
nadUj  Madonna  in  Santo  Domingo  at  Malaga).  The  unpainted 
wooden  statuettes  in  the  choir  of  the  cathedral  of  Malaga  are  among 
the  most  singular  and  significant  products  of  Spamsh  art,  if  not  of 
all  modern  sculpture.  They  form  an  entire  heaven  of  those  saints 
and  founders  of  religious  orders  who  were  most  popular  in  Spain. 
The  more  we  inspect  them,  the  greater  is  our  astonishment  that  he 
was  able  to  make  such  living  and  intelligible  personifications  of 
42  different  characters,  with  no  material  to  inspire  him  but  the  dry 
records  of  their  lives.  Though  nowhere  recalling  the  model,  yet 
carefully  individualized  in  every  way  and  making  the  naive,  un- 
conscious impression  of  true  saints,  these  statuettes  are  probably  the 
last  word  of  Spanish  art  in  plastic  characterisation.  The  St.  Francis 
in  the  cathedral  of  Toledo j  a  ghastly  ascetic  type  formerly  ascribed 
to  Cano,  is  also  by  Pedro  de  Mena 

In  the  last  third  of  the  ;17th  cent,  the  Baroque  Style  pene- 
trated the  Iberian  peninsula.  The  overloaded,  extravagant,  and 
ugly  decoration  of  CHu&aiouBBA  (d.  1725)  is  especially  distaste- 
ful to  the  lover  of  art  because  it  was  the  signal  for  the  blind 
lust  for  the  destruction  of  the  older  altar-pieces,  not  only  of  the 
Gothic  period  but  also  of  the  classic  style  of  the  16th  century. 
Even  Montafi^s  had  at  times  to  give  way  to  this  later  art.  Hand 
in  hand  with  this  pest  went  the  subserviency  of  the  clergy  to  the 
popular  desire  for  the  coarsest  materialization,  a  tendency  which 
the  modern  fashions  in  religion  have  enhanced.  The  apparatus  for 
moving  the  head,  the  eyes,  and  the  mouth,  the  wooden  dolls,  with 
real  hair  and  real  dresses,  in  which  the  bead  and  hands  alone  are 
carved,  mark  the  lowest  level  of  the  plastic  art. 

The  *Trasparente'  of  NarcUo  Tom£  In  Toledo  Cathedral  Is  a 
lotorious  example  of  the  brazen  desecration  of  one  of  the  noblest 


Baroque  StyU.  SPANISH  ART.  Sculpture,     Ul 

temples  in  Spain  by  an  effect  suitable  only  for  the  stage.  The  royal 
statues  executed  for  the.palace  of  the  Bourbons  at  Madrid,  now  in 
part  lining  the  walks  of  the  Bueno  Retiro,  are  mere  carioatures. 

E^en  in  this  period,  however,  there  are  not  a  few  instances 
which  prove  that  character  and  training,  though  hampered  by  the 
prescriptions  of  a  degraded  taste,  can  produce  genuine  works  ap- 
pealing to  the  sympathy  of  generations  with  a  very  different  stand- 
ard of  art.  The  earnestness  of  Spanish  devotion  has  sometimes  in- 
spired baroque  forms  with  a  spirit  quite  unlike  the  sensual  and 
frivolous  tone  of  the  Italians. 

Among  works  of  this  kind  may  be  mentioned  the  statue  of 
St.  Bruno  by  Manuel  Pereira  (d.  1667)  in  the  Cartuja,  near  Bwrgos; 
that  of  St.  Andrew  on  the  portal  of  San  Andres  in  Madrid;  the 
emotional  and  realistic  groups  of  Salvador  Carmona  in  Salamanca ; 
and  the  statues  otLuUa  Roldan  in  the  Escorial.  One  of  the  richest 
and  most  tasteful  of  the  rococo  monuments  is  the  fagade  of  the 
cathedral  of  Murda,  where  some  restraint  was  placed  upon  the 
artists  by  the  adjacent  models.  The  Madonna  over  the  high-altar 
of  Cuenea  is  a  plastic  picture.  The  statues  in  the  park  of  San  Ilde- 
fomo  are  the  work  of  a  colony  of  French  marble-cutters.  The  works 
in  the  sacristy  and  santuario  of  the  Cartuja  of  Granada  are  a  de- 
corative delirium  of  the  baroque  style  of  S.  Spain,  but  in  spite  of 
their  utter  lawlessness  they  produce  a  certain  effect  by  the  cost- 
liness of  their  material  (marble  from  the  Sierra  Nevada,  etc.). 

One  of  the  chief  figures  in  the  history  of  Spanish  sculpture 
flourished  in  the  first  half  of  the  18th  century.  ¥ranoi8co  Zarcillo 
(1707-48),  the  son  of  a  Neapolitan,  was  bom  at  Afurcta,  and  his 
works  there  repay  of  themselves  a  visit  to  that  town.  Many  of  his 
statues  will  seem  to  the  superficial  observer  to  be  simply  the  usual 
wares  of  the  baroque  style.  We  should  not,  however,  allow  our- 
selves to  be  misled  by  the  confused  drapery  and  the  excited 
gestares  j  the  careful  eye  will  see  a  wealth  of  reality  taken  from 
life,  not  without  depth  of  feeling  and  nobility  of  treatment.  In 
this  way  those  groups  from  the  Passion,  intended  primarily  for 
materialistic  effects  and  often  designed  with  reference  to  their 
motion  in  a  procession,  are  raised  to  the  dignity  of  true  works  of 
art.  Those  who  have  not  seen  the  groups  in  the  Ermita  de  Jesus, 
the  retablo  with  the  angels  in  San  Miguel,  and  that  of  Santa  Maria 
de  Gracia  in  CarUigena,  have  no  complete  idea  of  Spanish  sculp- 
ture. Groups  such  as  that  of  the  Agony  in  the  Garden  and  the  Kiss 
of  Judas  may  for  the  moment,  through  the  captivating  truth  and 
inwardness  of  their  curious  conception,  throw  all  other  known  re- 
presentatloi»  into  the  shade  —  and  that  in  spite  of  the  fact  that 
the  Saviour  wears  an  embroidered  velvet  mantle. 

Zarcillo,  though  the  chief  of  his  kind,  was  by  no  means  isolated. 
Until  quite  recently  a  room  in  the  church  of  Santa  Maria  at  San 
Sebastian  contained  a  small  collection  of  similar  works  by  native 


Uii     Painting.  SPANISH  ART.  12th  to 

Basque  artists,  such  as  Arimiendi  and  Ron.  In  1880,  howeyer,  the 
room  being  required  for  sohool  -  purposes ,  the  churoh  authorities 
had  them  bitmed.  —  A  short  episode  of  pseudo-Greek  sculpture 
ensued,  of  which  the  Dos  de  Mayo  Monument ,  by  Josf  Alvares^ 
and  the  Prado  Fountain  at  Madrid  may  be  taken  as  examples.  The 
most  recent  masters  have  returned  to  realism.  AttractWe  works  in 
terracotta  are  produced  by  Vallmitjana  of  Barcelona  and  others. 
Large  bronze  monuments  are  successfully  cast  in  the  same  city. 

c.  Painting. 

No  paintings  of  the  Visigothic  period  are  extant.  It  may  be 
assumed,  however,  that  the  Miniatwres  dating  from  the  first  cen- 
turies after  the  Arab  conquest  of  Spain  are  the  straggling  and 
degenerate  offshoots  of  the  Visigothic  traditions.  The  richest  col- 
lections of  illustrated  manuscripts  are  those  of  the  Eseorial  and  of 
the  National  Library  and  Academy  of  History  at  Madrid,  The  bar- 
barously degraded  Latin  style  of  the  drawing  (still  known  in  Spain 
as  'Byzantine^)  is  associated,  as  in  the  case  of  the  missals  of  the 
Franks,  with  northern  (Irish)  ornamental  motives.  The  human 
face  is  sometimes  indicated  merely  by  calligraphic  lines  and 
flourishes ;  in  some  of  the  Andalusian  codices  the  drawings  of  the 
human  form  are  scarcely  recognisable.  An  entirely  new  element  — 
that  of  the  Abab  Style  of  Building  *—  meets  us  in  the  manu- 
scripts of  San  Millan  in  the  Rioja  (11th  cent,  and  later).  In  the 
Commentary  on  the  Apocalypse  by  Brother  Beatus  (copies  at  Gerona 
and  in  the  Madrid  Academy  of  History)  occur  full-page  illustra- 
tions of  magnificent  palaces  with  horseshoe  arches  and  battlements. 
Thus,  in  the  very  beginnings  of  Spanish  culture,  we  detect  the  first 
notes  of  that  Oriental  taste  which  continues  during  five  centuries 
and  reaches  its  climax  in  the  resounding  harmonies  of  such  crea- 
tions as  the  council-room  of  the  Cardinal's  Palace  at  Alcald  (1424). 

Of  mural  paintings  before  the  era  of  the  pointed  style  the  re- 
mains are  very  scanty.  The  chief  are  the  figures  of  saints  in  the 
niches  of  the  little  church  of  El  Cristo  de  la  Luz  at  Toledo  (see 
p.  xliv)  and  the  extensive  vault-paintings  *al  secco'  in  the  chapel 
of  St.  Catharine  in  San  Isidore  of  l/con,  with  scenes  from  the 
Passion.  The  latter,  dating  from  the  end  of  the  12th  cent.,  are 
the  most  important  specimens  of  the  ^Byzantine'  style  in  Spain^  The 
interiors  of  the  Romanesque  churches  in  the  mountain-districts  in 
the  N.  and  N.E.  of  the  peninsula  were  frequently  adorned  with 
paintings  (12th  cent,  et  seq.),  just  as  in  the  central  European 
countries.  Several  cases  have  been  found  in  Asturiaa  and  Aragon. 

The  introduction  of  the  Abohitbctueb  op  N.  Fbance  was 
quickly  followed  by  the  style  of  drawing  evolved  from  it.  Remains 
may  be  seen  in  Navarre  (Tudela  and  Pampcluna)  and  on  the  mon- 
uments in  the  old  cathedral  of  Salamanca.  Of  the  three  large 
ural  paintings  of  the  Virgin  in  Seville^  those  of  Nuestra  Sefiora  de 


IdUi  Century,  SPANISH  ART.  PakUing.     Ixiit 

RocamadoT  at  San  Lorenzo  and  Nnestra  S«nora  del  Corral  In  San 
Ildefonso  probably  date  from  the  14th  cent ;  that  In  the  Capilla  de 
la  Antigua  of  the  cathedral  waa  painted  oTor  in  the  16th  century. 
These  influences  from  the  N.  were  accompanied  by  Italian 
Influenobs,  from  Florence  and  Siena.  Stamina  (b.  1354)  and  Delia 
(d.  after  1466),  two  Tuscan  painters  of  the  school  of  Giotto,  worked 
at  the  courts  of  Juan  I.  and  Juan  II.  of  Castile.  No  anthenticated 
works  by  these  artists  are  extant,  but  tilie  paintings  on  the  Tault- 
ing  of  the  chapel  of  San  Bias  In  the  cloisters  of  Toledo  are  undoubt- 
edly Giottesque.  The  large  painting  of  the  battle  of  Higaeruela  in 
the  Aleazar  of  Segovia,  which  Philip  II.  caused  to  be  copied  for 
the  Eseofial,  has  been  ascribed  to  Dello,  but  erroneously.  The  fresco 
in  the  apse  of  the  old  cathedral  of  Salamanca  is  by  NieoUu  Floren- 
tino.  The  easel  paintings,  such  as  the  altar-piece  of  St.  Clara  at 
TordeaiUoB,  are  more  numerous. 

The  Landi  of  (he  LimouHn  Dialeet  (Valencia,  Catalonia,  and 
Majorca)  have  always  been  especially  susceptible  to  the  influence 
of  Italy.  In  this  district,  from  the  14th  till  late  in  the  15th  cent., 
a  peculiar  style  flourished,  which  resembled  the  early  Tuscan  and 
old  Cologne  schools.  Its  characteristics  are  light  tempera  colour- 
ing, animated  and  graceful  movement,  flowing  drapery,  and  flne 
and  even  beautiful  forms.  These  rotables  are  recognizable  by  their 
flat,  gilded  frames,  with  (}othio  tracery  and  ornamentation.  Numer- 
ous works  of  tills  kind  are  preserved  in  Catalonia,  as  in  the  cathe- 
dral of  Jfonresa,  the  convent-church  of  San  Ougat  del  Vallis  near 
Barcelona,  and  the  museums  of  Valeneia  and  Palma,  Some  of  the 
paintings  of  the  Yirgin  are  akin  to  those  of  William  of  Cologne  and 
Fra  Angelico  in  their  naive  and  child-like  charm. 

In  the  interior  of  the  country  these  echoes  of  foreign  styles 
often  disappear  entirely.  The  most  important  work,  interesting  for 
its  date  (1390)  and  its  Moorish  ornamentation,  is  the  rotable  from 
the  Monasterio  de  Piedra,  now  at  the  Academy  of  History  in 
Madrid,  Mention  may  be  made  also  of  the  old  altar  of  San  MiUan 
de  Sum  in  the  tUoja,  that  of  the  Chapel  of  the  Fremeda  in  the  Es^ 
eorialy  and  the  curious  tempera-paintings  on  the  curtains  behind 
the  royal  tombs  in  the  convent-church  of  Ofia, 

The  Ea&lt  Flemish  School  is  represented  in  Spain  by  more 
paintings  than  any  other  foreign  s'^hool.  Many  of  these  were  in- 
troduced by  traders,  but  many  others  were  painted  in  Flanders  to 
the  direct  order  of  Spanish  patrons.  Others  were  painted  in  Spain 
by  Flemish  masters,  who  resided  in  the  country  either  temporarily 
or  permanently,  bequeathing  their  style  to  their  successors. 

The  history  of  the  early-Flemish  school  in  the  peninsula  begins 
with  the  Journey  of  Jan  van  Etck  to  the  court  of  Portugal,  on 
which  occasion  he  also  visited  Spain.  No  originals  from  his  hand 
seem  to  be  now  extant-,  but  the  Fountain  of  Life  in  the  JVado 
Museum^  which  Enrique  IV.  presented  to  the  convent  of  Parral  a 


Uiv     Painting.  SPANISH  ART.      15th  and  16th  Cent.  : 

Segovia,  may  represent  one  of  his  compositions.  Of  the  early- 
Netherlandish  altar-pieces  still  occupying  their  original  positiohs 
the  following  are  the  most  important :  the  Crucifixion  by  Dcbbick 
Bouts  in  the  Capilla  Real  at  Qranada;  an  Oratorium  by  the  same 
artist  in  the  Colegio  del  Patriarca  at  Valencia;  the  great  high-altar 
of  Palencia  by  Juan  de  Flandes  (beginning  of  the  16th  cent.) ;  the 
retablo  of  St.  John's  at  Marehena;  and  the  small  and  attractive 
Dutch  retablo  of  Bishop  Fonseca  by  Juan  de  HoUmda  (1507).  Of 
the  three  Descents  from  the  Cross  attributed  to  Roobb  van  dbr 
Wbydbn  that  in  the  Eseorial  is  the  original.  The  large  Altar  of 
St  Aubert  of  Cambrai,  now  in  the  Prado  Museum,  is  the  work  of 
pupils.  Akin  to  Van  der  Weyden  is  the  painter  of  the  altar-piece 
of  Flemallen  (panels  at  Frankfort-on-the-Maiu) ,  who  is  also  the 
artist  of  the  wings  by  Master  Werlis  (Nos.  1352  et  seq.)  and  the 
panel  with  the  story  of  Joseph  (and  the  Annunciation).  It  is  full 
of  Hispano-Moresco  types  and  costumes.  Many  large  and  small 
works  of  Gbbaebt  David  are  found  from  the  Balearic  Isles  to 
Portugal,  and  his  masterpiece  is  at  Evora.  A  Spanish  imitator  is 
illustrated  at  Segovia  (San  Est^an)  and  in  Madrid  Museum, 

These  works  by  prominent  Netherlandish  masters  belong  to  the 
later  part  of  the  15th  century.  The  most  remarkable  work  of  the 
Hispano-Flemish  style  in  the  peninsula,  however,  dates  from  1445, 
i,e.  scarcely  ten  years  later  than  the  completion  of  the  masterpiece 
ot  the  brothers  Tan  Eyck.  This  is  the  retablo  with  the  portraits  of 
the  five  Consejers,  painted  by  Luis  db  Dalmau  for  the  old  chapel 
in  the  city-hall  of  Barcelona,  In  this  work  the  oil  technique,  the 
•  forms,  and  even  the  actual  singing  angels  of  the  famous  Ghent 
altar-piece  appear  in  a  Gatalonian  guise.  In  Catalonia  it  is  unique 
of  its  kind;  but  somewhat  later  Castile  produced  the  prolific  Fer- 
nando Qallegos  (d.  1550),  whose  panels  at  Zamora  and  Salamanca 
may  be  compared  to  the  works  of  the  Cologne  *  Master  of  the  Holy 
Relationship'.  The  court-painter  Antonio  del  Bineon  (1466-1500) 
also  belongs  to  this  category,  if  he  be  really  the  author  of  the  little 
picture  in  the  church  of  San  Juan  de  los  Reyes  at  Qranada,  with  its 
portraits  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella.  His  large  work  at  Bobledo  de 
ChaveUt,  with  its  numerous  sections,  has  been  repainted  and  ruined. 

Those  who  pass  from  village  to  village  in  almost  any  Spanish 
province  will  receive  the  impression  that  in  the  15th  cent,  every 
church  possessed  one  or  more  painted  Retablos,  so  great  is  the 
number  that  have  escaped  (mostly  in  the  poorer  places)  the  'Chur- 
rigueresque'  mania  for  restoration.  Most  of  these  works  date  from 
the  second  half  of  the  century  and  show  the  general  characteristics 
of  the  early-Flemish  school:  —  the  figures  are  lean,  the  outlines 
sharp,  the  colours  rich  and  aided  by  gold.  Local  types  and  customs, 
peculiarities  of  dress  and  ornamentation  are  frequently  used.  The 
legends  are  represented  with  drastic  vigour,  and  the  painter  is  often 
quite  unique  in  his  way  of  relating  Biblical  events.   In  delicacy  of 


£aHy  8effUUan$,  SPANISH  AUT.  PakUing.    Ixy 

workmanship  and  charm  of  colour  they  are,  however,  inferior  to  the 
Flemish  works  of  the  same  kind.  In  Nayarre,  Aragon,  and  Uotis- 
sillon  a  French  element  is  noticeable;  in  Catalonia  we  see  French, 
German,  and  Italian  influences  at  work  side  by  side ;  in  Valencia 
and  the  Balearic  Isles  the  Italian  influence  is  predominant 

Those  who  have  no  time  to  visit  the  provinces  may  study  the 
different  schools  in  the  galleries  of  the  larger  cities.  The  Aragonese 
school  is  represented  in  the  Archsological  Museum  at  Madrid; 
Catalan  works,  of  a  bewildering  variety  of  styles,  are  collected  in 
the  cloisters  of  the  Seo  of  Barcelona;  Valencian  and  Balearic  works 
may  be  seen  in  the  museums  of  Valeficia  and  Palma^  Leonese  works 
at  Leon,  and  Castilian  works  at  AvUa  and  Segovia,  There  are  also 
many  Castilian  paintings  in  the  Prado  Mtueum  —  among  them  the 
charming  Yirgen  de  la  Rosa  from  the  convent  of  Udtfs.  The  ceiling 
paintings  in  the  Alhambra  (beginning  of  the  loth  cent.)  may  belong 
to  one  of  these  provincial  schools,  probably  that  of  Valencia. 

From  the  stand-point  of  historical  evolution  the  most  notable 
phase  is  the  influence  of  the  early-Flemish  school  on  the  painters 
of  Setillb,  the  most  important  centre  in  the  subsequent  history  of 
Spanish  painting.  Juan  Sanohbz  db  Castso,  whose  St  Christopher 
(retouched)  in  San  Julian  dates  from  1484,  is  the  earliest  known  of 
these  Seville  painters,  and  he  stands  at  the  head  of  a  chain  that 
extends  without  a  break  to  Murillo.  An  easel-painting  by  him  of  the 
Virgin  with  SS.  Peter  and  Jerome,  lately  discovered  in  St.  Julian's, 
proves  that  he  formed  his  style  under  Netherlandish  influences. 
He  was  followed  by  Albjto  Fbbnani>bz,  who,  with  his  brother  Juan 
Fbrkandbz  Albman,  was  summoned  from  Cordova  to  execute  some 
works  in  the  cathedral.  His  masterpiece  in  Cordova  has  disap- 
peared, but  the  large  panels  he  painted  for  the  Sacristia  Alta  of 
the  cathedral  of  Semlle  (1525),  and  now  transferred  to  the  more 
favourable  light  of  the  Archbishop's  palace,  form  one  of  the  most 
important  pages  in  the  history  of  early-Spanish  art  They  are  distin- 
guished from  most  works  of  the  period  by  a  vein  of  dignity,  serious- 
ness, and  simplicity.  The  stranger  will  at  first  find  himself  em- 
barassed  in  his  attempt  to  classify  these  works.  Some  of  the  heads 
suggest  Quinten  Matsys,  others  have  an  Italian  purity  of  line,  still 
others  are  popular  types  of  a  semi- African  cast.  A  little  familiarity 
with  the  works  of  the  school,  however,  reveals  that  a  Spanish  style 
is  beginning  to  be  evolved  from  this  eclecticism.  But  this  was 
soon  afterwards  nipped  in  the  bud  by  the  system  of  mannerism 
imported  from  Italy.  Probably  the  most  attractive  work  both  of  the 
master  and  of  the  time  is  the  Madonna  and  angels  in  Santa  Ana  in 
the  suburb  of  Triana,  Akin  to  the  works  of  Fernandez  are  the 
retablo  In  the  Colegio  del  Maese  Rodrigo,  that  of  St  Bartholomew 
in  the  chapel  of  St  Anna  in  the  cathedral  (1407),  the  repentant 
St  Peter  in  the  museum  of  Cordova^  and  the  noble  figures  of  holy 
women  in  the  retablos  of  Marchena  and  Ecija,   The  tempera  pane 

Baedbkkb'b  Spain.  e 


Ixvi    Painting.  SPANISH  ART.  16th  Century: 

of  saints  and  founders  of  orders  in  San  Benito  de  Calatrava  seem  to 
belong  to  another  school. 

The  feign  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  the  most  brilliant  epoch  of 
Spanish  history,  could  not  fail  to  give  a  strong  impulse  to  the  arts. 
From  about  1470  to  1520  a  group  of  painters  flourished  in  Castile, 
who  compare  more  or  less  favourably  with  the  Tuscan  Quatro- 
centlsts.  The  earliest  and  most  extensive  enterprise  of  this  group 
was  the  Arescoes  in  the  cloisters  of  the  cathedral  of  Leon^  executed 
under  Bishop  Venier,  an  Italian  (1464-70);  but  of  this  only  frag- 
ments remain.  A  much  more  distinct  idea  of  the  art  of  Juan  db 
BoBOONA  (d.  ca.  1633)  is  given  by  his  mural  paintings  in  the 
chapter-room  at  Toledo^  while  his  frescoes  in  the  cloisters  and 
elsewhere  have  vanished.  He  probably  formed  his  style  as  the 
assistant  of  Florentine  painters,  perhaps  of  Ghirlandajo.  The  works 
at  Toledo  are  scenes  from  the  New  Testament,  painted  in  a  clear 
and  bright  fresco-tone,  firm  and  broad  in  drawing;  a  certain  stiffness 
and  crudity  in  types  and  gestures  alone  indicate  that  their  native 
soil  is  not  Italy.  This  Burgundian  painter,  who  was  a  brother  of  the 
sculptor  Philip  Vigarnf,  found  an  assistant  and  successor  in  Francisco 
de  Amberes,  of  whose  works  the  churches  of  Toledo  contain  many 
examples.  He  adapted  the  style  to  the  small  panels  of  the  retablos 
and  sometimes  enhanced  the  charm  of  the  scenes  by  setting  them 
in  rich  and  sunny  landscapes  (e.g.  San  Andres).  That  Borgona  was 
a  skilful  painter  in  oUs  is  proved  by  the  panels  in  the  Prado  Museum 
(Nos.  2178  et  seq.),  which  are  probably  firom  his  hand,  and  by  the 
retablo  of  the  cathedral  of  Avila  (1608).  In  the  latter  place  he  had 
as  his  colleagues  the  court-painter  Pedro  Berruguete  and  Santos 
Cruz.  In  fact  two  hands  besides  his  own  are  recognizable  in  this 
important  retablo  —  one  that  of  a  follower  of  Pietro  Perugino,  the 
other  that  of  a  purely  Castilian  artist.  The  realistically  conceived 
racial  types,  the  vigorous  colouring,  the  firmness  of  the  drawing 
and  perspective,  and  the  skilful  handling  of  the  gilded  surfaces 
make  Borgona's  retablo  at  Santo  Torafis  in  Avila  and  the  Dominican 
legends  in  its  cloisters  (now  in  the  Prado  Museum)  take  rank  among 
the  most  characteristic  and  pithy  performances  of  early-Spanish 
art.  One  of  the  offshoots  of  the  school  is  Diego  Cobbea,  in  whom, 
however,  the  influence  of  Raphael  also  is  noticeable ;  his  pictures, 
coming  partly  fVom  Guisando  and  now  almost  all  collected  in  the 
Prado  Museum^  are  vigorously  painted  and  show  a  pleasing,  though 
somewhat  uniform  inventive  faculty. 

The  national  character  which,  like  the  woof  in  the  Italian  warp, 
is  more  or  less  visible  in  the  pictures  of  this  period,  both  in  subject 
and  conception,  disappeared  almost  wholly  after  1540  or  there- 
abouts. The  fame  of  Michael  Angelo  and  Raphael  attracted  many 
Spaniards  to  Rome,  where  they  spent  either  the  whole  (as  RuviaUs) 


ManneriaU.  SPANISH  ART.  Painting.     Uvii 

or  a  great  part  of  their  lives  —  enough,  in  any  case,  to  thoroughly 
Italianize  themselves.  What  they  painted  in  Italy  is  nndistingnish- 
ably  drowned  in  the  frescoes  of  the  wholesale  decorators  like  Vasari 
and  Zaccari,  to  whom  ihey  served  as  assistants. 

The  first  of  these  Mannbbists  was  Alokso  Bbbbuoubtb,  the  son 
of  Pedro,  one  of  the  most  conspicuous  names  in  the  art-history  of 
Spain  (comp.  p.  liv).  The  paintings  attributed  to  him  at  Sola- 
manea,  ValladoUd,  and  PaUneia  show  a  strange  and  yet  intelligent 
reproduction  of  Raphaelesque  forms.  His  followers,  with  much  less 
indiyidnality,  were  Gctvpar  Beetrra  (p.  IviU},  the  hopelessly  man- 
nered Villoldo,  Blaa  del  Prado,  and  the  feeble  LuU  de  VdMeo  (these 
two  at  Toledo).  Luis  db  Moralbs  (ca.  1508-86)  of  Badajox  painted 
pious  pictures  with  applaase,  but  his  later  figures  of  the  Mater 
Dolorosa  and  Ecce  Homo  are  lamentable  caricatures  which  show  to 
what  a  depth  the  taste  of  the  period  had  sunk.  In  SevilU  the  Italian 
influence  seems  to  have  been  at  first  transmitted  through  glass 
painters  from  the  Netherlands,  such  as  Amao  de  Flandes  (1525 
et  seq.).  The  'good  manner'  was  afterwards  represented  by  Luis  ob 
Vaboas  (1502-68),  who  painted  large  frescoes  with  some  success 
(Giralda).  The  work  known  as  *La  Gamba^  seems  to  indicate  that 
he  also  was  a  member  of  Vasarl's  circle.  Alonao  Vcuquet  has  a 
certain  Flemish  flavour.  The  most  prominent  of  all  is  Pbdbo 
Campana  {de  Kempeneer;  1503-80)  of  Brussels,  who  lived  24  years 
in  Andalusia.  His  Descent  from  the  Cross  (1549)  and  his  Purifica- 
tion in  the  cathedral  ot  Seville  are  the  most  pregnant  and  individual 
works  of  the  whole  school.  The  last  representative  of  this  class  was 
F&ANCisco  Pachbco  (1571-1654;  p.  lix),  the  teacher  and  father- 
in-law  of  Velazquez,  originator  of  a  collection  of  portraits  of  emin- 
ent Sevillians  and  author  of  a  valuable  text-book  of  painting. 

The  style  of  ornamentation  used  by  Giovanni  da  Udine  in  the 
logge  of  the  Vatican  was  afterwards  successfully  introduced  by  Julio 
de  AquilU  of  Rome  and  Alexander  Mayner  in  the  Alhambra  Pavilion 
and  in  the  Infantado  Palace  at  Qtiadalajara.  Cincinnati  continued 
this  style  in  the  chapter-room  and  in  the  prior  s  cell  at  the  Eacorial. 

When  Philip  U.  undertook  to  adorn  this  gigantic  building  with 
frescoes  and  altar-pieces,  he  had  so  little  confidence  in  Spanish 
painters  that  he  entrusted  almost  the  whole  work  to  Italians.  Fedb- 
Eioo  ZuccARi,  LuoA  Cambiaso  (of  Gcnoa),  and  other  masters  ans- 
wered his  summons ;  but  the  performances  of  these  rapid-woVking 
decorators  were  so  little  in  harmony  with  their  reputation  that  the 
Spaniards  fancied  that  in  the  new  climate  they  worked  under  an  evil 
star.  Pbllborino  Tibaldi  had  greater  success  in  the  library,  though 
his  works  could,  it  is  true,  seem  imposing  only  to  those  who  had 
not  seen  the  Sistine  Chapel.  The  stamp  of  true  art  was  better  seen 
in  the  few  eflbrts  of  BarU  Carducho  (in  the  Ptado),  which  still  show 
something  of  the  style  and  charm  of  Andrea  del  Sarto.  Most  of  these 
Italians  settled  in  Spain;  and  they,  their  younger  brothers,  their 


Ixviil    Painting,         SPANISH  ART.        16th  and  17th  Cent,: 

dons,  and  their  hangers  on  (like  NarcU)  supplied  the  artistic  UFants 
of  the  churches  and  castles  of  Castile  (the  Pardo^  the  Alcazar  of 
Segovia^  down  to  the  time  of  Velazquez.  The  most  prolific  was  Yin- 
CENCio  Carducho,  the  author  of  a  well-written  little  work  on  his 
art  (Dialogos,  1633).  His  style  and  that  of  his  compeers  recalls  the 
second  Florentine  school  of  the  16th  century.  Their  merit  is  to 
have  placed  the  standard  of  artistic  training  on  a  higher  level. 

The  CouBT  PoBTBAiT  Paintebs  deserve  special  mention.  Sir 
Anthony  More  (ArU,  Mor)  was  greatly  admired  by  Philip  II.,  and  the 
Prado  Museum  possesses  from  his  hand  some  well -characterized 
portraits  of  the  house  of  Hapsburg  and  a  series  of  excellent  pictures 
of  ladies.  Alonso  Sanchez  Coello  (d.  1590)  formed  himself  in 
More's  school  and  often  nearly  equals  his  master.  He  was  followed 
byPANTOJA  DB  LA  Obuz  (1651-1610),  the  court-painter  of  Philip  in., 
who,  though  stiff  and  conventional,  possesses  some  interest  on 
account  of  his  elaborate  studies  of  the  dress  of  his  time.  The  cold 
and  precise  manner  of  these  painters  corresponds  closely  with  the 
reserved,  formal,  and  etiquette-bound  personages  they  painted. 

The  most  valuable  part  of  the  adornment  of  the  Etcorial  and 
the  Palace  of  Madrid  was  the  Venetian  Paintings.  These  were 
mainly  furnished  by  Titian  to  the  order  of  Charles  V.  and  Philip  11. 
Their  number  was  afterwards  increased  by  the  two  Bacchanalian 
scenes  from  Ferrara  and  by  numerous  works  of  Jac.  Tintoretto  and 
Paolo  Veronese.  Thus  the  Prado  Gallery  to  this  day  contains  the 
greatest  collection  of  Venetian  paintings  outside  Venice.  The  Vene- 
tian school  was  the  most  congenial  to  Spain  of  all  the  Italian  schools, 
and  its  influence  may  be  traced  even  in  the  16th  century.  Juan 
Fbbnandbz  Navabbetb  (1526-79),  the  dumb  painter  of  Navarre, 
at  first  showed  himself  akin  to  the  mannerists  above  described ;  but 
after  the  king  had  commissioned  him  to  paint  the  Apostles  (in  the 
church)  and  other  extensive  works  at  the  Escorial,  he  remodelled  his 
style  by  a  study  of  the  paintings  by  Titian  he  saw  there,  and  showed 
that  he  understood  the  grand  old  master  better  than  many  of  his 
immediate  pupils.  He  died,  however,  while  engaged  in  these  tasks. 
In  Toledo,  about  the  same  time,  appeared  that  curious  Greek  artist, 
DoMENico  Thbotoc6puli  (1548-1626),  a  pupil  of  Titian.  His  Christ 
on  Calvary,  in  the  large  hall  of  the  sacristy,  shows  a  power  of  intel- 
ligent characterization  and  a  mastery  of  artistic  materials  that  prom- 
ised great  things.  Afterwards,  through  a  craving  for  originality,  he 
developed  an  incredible  mannerism ;  that  this  was  not  without  its 
admirers  is  shown  by  the  numerous  works  by  him  in  the  churches  of 
Toledo  and  Castile.  In  his  portraits,  however,  in  spite  of  all  affecta- 
tions, he  has  delineated  the  peculiar  dignity  of  the  Castilian  hidalgos 
and  the  beauty  of  Toledan  dames  with  a  success  attained  by  few. 

In  Sbvillb  also  the  short  reign  of  the  mannerists  was  followed 
by  a  return  to  a  more  healthy  style  of  art.    In  the  paintings  of  the 


School  of  Valencia.       SPANISH  ART.  Painting.     Ixix 

cleric  Juan  de  las  Roblas  (ca.  1560-1625)  already  sound  all  the 
strings  to  -which  the  painting  of  the  17th  cent,  owes  its  sueeess.  They 
contain  the  death-sentence  of  that  pretentions  mannerism  which 
affected  to  look  down  upon  life,  colour,  and  chiaroscuro.  The  hroad, 
free,  and  yet  sofk  drawing,  the  light  and  warm  key,  the  yellcwish 
brown  tones  have  led  to  the  supposition  that  Roelas  also  studied  in 
Yenice.  In  his  Death  of  St.  Isidore  he  produced  an  eooleaia:)tical 
scene,  which  Zurbaran  himself  has  not  excelled  for  snreness  of  touch 
in  the  delineation  of  Spanish  character.  His  Liberation  of  St.  Peter 
resembles  Honthorst,  his  Martyrdom  of  St.  Andrew  recalls  Ribera; 
his  angelic  concerts  of  yolce  and  instrument  are  full  of  an  Andalus- 
ian  gaiety  not  unworthy  of  Murillo.  The  Madonna  over  the  altar 
of  the  nniyersity-church  has  a  gracious  sweetness  that  is  all  her 
own.  Roelas  may  also  be  studied  to  advantage  in  the  Meroenarian 
Church  at  San  Lucar  de  Boframeda. 

The  bizarre  Fbancisco  Hbbbbba  (ca.  1576-1656)  is  often  looked 
upon  by  the  Spaniards  as  the  originator  of  their  national  style  on 
account  of  the  breadth  and  *fury'  of  his  brush.  In  his  earlier  and 
better  pictures  (such  as  the  Last  Judgment  in  San  Bernardo)  he  is, 
howeyer,  nothing  more  than  a  vigorous  pupil  of  Roelas.  The  interest 
he  arouses  is  of  a  personal  kind.  He  evinces  the  earnestness,  the 
energy,  the  Are  of  a  strong  nature,  which  despises  the  artificial, 
hut  Anally  sinks  into  an  extravagant  decorative  style  of  painting. 

School  of  Yalbnoia.  Next  to  the  Andalusians  the  Yalencians 
seem,  of  all  provincials  of  Spain,  to  possess  the  greatest  aptitude  for 
painting.  The  history  of  their  school  is,  however,  less  well  known, 
though  it  reaches  back  farther  into  the  middle  ages.  It  can  be  traced 
from  the  14th  till  the  middle  of  the  17th  century.  The  prolific 
schools  of  retablo-painters  that  flourished  here ,  as  in  the  neigh- 
bouring district  of  Catalonia  and  the  Balearic  Isles,  show  a  distinctly 
original  strain,  coupled  with  considerable  resemblance  co  the  Tre- 
centists and  Qnattrocentists  of  Tuscany.  The  names  mentioned  in 
the  doeuments  seem  all  of  native  stock.  An  idea  of  the  former 
wealth  of  paintings  in  this  province  may  be  obtained  from  some  of 
the  chance  survivals.  Thus  in  JdUva,  the  native  place  of  the  greatest 
painter  of  the  province,  more  than  a  dozen  altar-pieces  of  the 
15th  cent,  have  survived  the  iconoclasm  of  the  War  of  the  Spanish 
Succession.  The  visitor  to  Valencia  may  study  the  different  styles 
of  the  province  in  the  musenm. 

In  the  latter  part  of  the  15th  cent,  the  Borgias  brought  many 
Italian  works  of  the  golden  period  into  their  native  province  of 
Valencia.  The  first  place  among  these  is  taken  by  the  large  retablo 
of  the  Seo  at  Valencia,  with  its  sixteen  panels  by  Fbbbando  db 
Alhedina,  a  pupil  of  Leonardo  daYind,  and  Fbbbaitdo  db  Llanos. 
Both  Valencia  and  Mwrcia  contain  other  Leonardesqne  works.  Heman 
Janes,  the  mastOT  of  the  two  altars  in  the  Albomoz  chapel  of  ^he 


Ixx    Painting.  SPANISH  ART.  16th  and  17th  Cent.  : 

cathedral  of  Cuenca,  has  been  identified  witli  the  Spaniard  Fer- 
randOj  yarned  in  Da  Vinci's  biography.  Paintings  of  Pinturicchio 
and  other  members  of  the  Umbrian  school  vieie  also  brought  into 
the  province  by  the  Borgias  (e.g.  the  Madonna  with  Card.  Rodrigo 
Borgia  in  the  museum  of  Valencia),  Those  in  the  cathedral  of 
8iguenza  were  imported  by  othei  hands. 

Such  models  may  account  for  the  well-known  and  over-estimated 
YiOBKTS  JoANES  Macif  {Viceitte  Jooncs f  1523-79),  who,  perhaps, 
visited  Italy.  His  numerous  and  generally  small  pictures  are  attract- 
ive through  their  warm  and  deep  colours,  their  vigorous  handling, 
and  their  rich  Uudscapes.  These  properties,  however,  cannot  conceal 
their  poverty  of  invention  nor  the  uniforn^ity  of  the  types,  attitudes, 
expression,  and  grouping.  His  Holy  families  are  cramped  and 
awkward  copies  of  Leonardo  da  Yinci  and  Raphael.  They  owe  their 
reputation  to  their  devout  piety  ;  many  of  them  refer  to  the  cult  of 
the  Holy  -Sacrament  so  zealously  furthered  by  the  pious  Archbp. 
Ribera.  The  widely  scattered  Last  Suppers  aud  figures  of  Christ 
were  intended  for  the  doors  of  the  Sagrario.  On  a  higher  level 
stands  the  Baptism  of  Christ  at  the  entrance  of  the  Seo,  which 
suggests  a  study  of  Sebastian  del  Piombo  and  was  probably  paint- 
ed immediately  after  Joanes's  return  f^om  Italy. 

More  important  was  the  earlier  Pablo  db  San  Lbooadio,  highly 
appreciated  by  his  contemporaries  but  overlooked  by  the  writers 
of  biographical  dictionaries  and  encyclopaedias.  His  large  rotable  at 
Oandia  and  the  now  dismembered  retablo  of  ViUarreal  reveal  him 
to  us  as  a  painter  who  did  for  Valencia  what  Juan  de  Borgofia  did 
for  Castile,  fie  is  distinguished  by  deep  culture,  nobility  of  form 
and  expression,  delicate  sensibility,  and  close  observation  of  life. 
An  artist  of  similar  tendencies  has  left  several  works  at  Segorbe, 

Till  the  second  half  of  the  16th  cent,  the  Valencian  painters 
adhered  to  the  well-coloured,  but  somewhat  over-elaborated  man- 
ner of  the  mediaeval  retablo,  in  which  the  accessories  were  depicted 
with  disproportionate  care.  The  first  to  make  himself  master  of  the 
^broad  manner'  of  the  Italians,  and  at  the  same  time  the  first  to 
give  forcible  expression  to  the  Valencian  nature  and  point  of  view, 
was  FnANcisco  Ribalta  (155?-1628).  He  trained  himself  by  trav- 
elling in  Italy  and  followed  the  tendency  which  produced  the 
school  of  Bologna.  His  retablo  in  Carcagente  shows  that  he  was 
familiar  with  Correggio  and  Schidone.  He  is  the  first  who  used 
chiaroscuro  as  the  tone-giving  element  of  his  work  and  emphasized 
the  plastic  modelling  of  his  figures  by  a  strong  light  from  one  side. 
The  violent  attitudes  and  foreshortenings  of  Correggio  are  not  want- 
ing, but  in  other  respects  his  rude,  coarse,  and  sometimes  tasteless 
art  has  little  in  common  with  the  Parmesan  master.  His  figures  are 
big-boned  and  muscular.       # 

Ribalta's  best  pupil  was  the  prolific,  pleasing,  and  adroit  Jacinto 
Jerdnimo  de  Espinosa  (1600-1680),  who  is  easily  recognizable  by  his 


School  of  Valencia.      SPANISH  ART.  PakUing,    Uxi 

bright-red  shado'ws.  His  large  scenes  from  the  legends  of  the  Americ- 
an missions,  in  the  museum  of  Valencia^  are  interesting.  Other 
artists  of  Valencia  are  Estiban  March^  the  extravagant  painter  of 
battle-scenes,  and  Pedro  OrrenU  (d.  1644  j  San  Andrtfs),  vho  after- 
wards made  a  success  at  the  court  of  Madrid  with  his  pastoral  scenes 
and  Biblical  landscapes  in  the  manner  of  Bassano.  The  Zarinenaa 
and  other  minor  painters  hardly  deserve  mention. 

According  to  Valenciau  traditions  Jusepe  Bibera  (1583-1656) 
of  Jativa,  known  as  Lo  Spagnoletto,  was  also  a  pupil  of  Uihalta, 
before  he  visited  Italy.  It  is  true  that  Ribera  followed  Caravagglo, 
whom  he  can  hardly  have  known  personally,  in  the  realistic  prin- 
ciple of  never  painting  without  a  model  and  in  the  dark  tone  of  his 
better-known  works  j  but  he  was  at  bottom  of  a  very  different  spirit 
from  the  Italian  master,  and  all  the  distinguishing  marks  of  his 
art  may  really  be  found  in  Ribalta.  It  may  have  been  Ribalta  who 
made  him  acquainted  with  Correggio,  whom,  as  is  well  known,  he 
imitated  at  first.  Rlbalta's  son,  who  died  about  the  same  time 
as  his  father,  has  left  a  large  Crucifixion  (1615  j  VaUncia  Museum)^ 
which  is  conceived  wholly  in  the  manner  of  Spagnoletto  and  was 
painted  about  the  time  of  the  latter's  arrival  in  Naples. 

Those  of  Ribera*s  pictures  that  are  found  in  Spain  usefully  sup- 
plement in  many  important  points  our  knowledge  of  his  life  and 
character.  The  large  Crucifixion^  which  his  first  patron,  the  Duke  of 
Osuna,  caused  him  to  paint,  among  other  pieces,  for  his  private 
chapel  at  Osuna,  is  probably  his  earlient  extant  work.  Spain  also 
possesses  a  few  of  those  masterpieces  in  which  he  rivals  Titian 
in  beauty  and  brilliancy  of  colouring  and  shows  himself  to  be  the 
greatest  colourist  of  Italy  In  the  17th  century.  Among  these  is  his 
unapproachable  Immaculata^  in  the  church  of  the  Agustinas  Reco- 
letas  at  Salamanca,  which  excels,  in  colour  and  splendour  of  light, 
in  nobility  of  form  and  Invention,  all  thatMurillo,  Guide  Reni,  and 
Rubens  have  attained  in  their  representations  of  this  subject.  The 
gentle  and  melancholy  type  that  is  familiar  through  the  Dresden 
St.  Agnes  is  seen  in  several  Paintings  of  the  Magdalen  at  Madrid 
and  in  the  Rest  on  the  Flight  into  Egypt  (Cordova).  A  few  Studies 
of  Apostles  from  Neapolitan  models,  now  in  the  Prado  Museum,  give 
ns  an  opportunity  to  observe  his  process  of  modelling ;  they  are 
unsurpa-sed  as  examples  of  pictorial  relief. 

Ribera,  who  is  unapproached  by  any  of  his  fellow-countrymen 
in  his  knowledge  of,  and  skill  in,  drawing  and  modelling,  represents 
the  seriousness  and  depth  of  Spanish  piety,  sometimes  degenerating 
into  morbidity  and  cruelty.  He  also,  though  more  rarely,  shows  a 
poetic  charm,  that  glows  like  a  richly  coloured  flower  among  the 
rocks.  He  gave  the  first  example  of  the  combination  of  realism 
with  the  Roman  Catholic  spirit;  and  thus  he  became  the  liberating 
genius  that  showed  to  the  painters  of  the  17th  cent,  the  national 
way  to  originality  and  greatness. 


Ixxlv    Paintmg,  SPANISH  ART.  MuriUo, 

ty  Ms  well-built  figures  and  by  the  noble  types  of  Mb'  Madonnas, 
who,  with  their  broad  brows,  large  oval  eyes,  and  heavy  eye-lashes, 
form  a  charming  supplement  to  Murillo's  S.  Spanish  women.  His 
Rest  on  the  Flight  into  Egypt,  in  the  Oartuja,  is  possessed  of  an 
ineffable  charm.  To  do  justice  to  this  very  prolific  master  we  must 
disregard  many  of  his  slighter  works. 

While  Bocanegra  Is  lacking  n  versatility,  no  such  verdict  can  bo 
passed  on  Juan  db  Sbvilla,  who  was  not  uninfluenced  by  Murillo. 
His  numerous  works  in  the  churches  of  Granada  repay  inspection. 


If  Velazquez  Is  the  chief  magnet  for  the  artist  and  the  connois- 
seur, Bartolomi  Estiban  Mnrillo  (1617-82)  is  undoubtedly  the 
most  popular  of  Spanish  painters  and  one  of  the  most  popular  of 
all  who  ever  wielded  brush.  It  is  singular  that  Murillo,  one  of  the 
few  artists  who  never  quitted  Spain,  who  was  never  happy  except 
in  his  own  province,  and  who  painted  nothing  but  what  he  found 
close  to  his  hand,  has  triumphantly  marched  through  Europe 
during  the  past  two  centuries  as  the  first  of  Spanish  painters.  So 
many  works  of  the  master  are  now  in  foreign  lands,  that  the  visitor 
to  Spain  will  greet  him  as  an  old  friend ;  indeed  Ms  genre-scenes 
are  almost  unrepresented  in  Spain.  The  cathedral  and  the  Oaridad 
of  Seville  and  the  Oapuchiti  church  at  Cadiz  are  almost  the  only 
places  where  Murillo*s  works  still  occupy  their  original  positions. 
The  collection  in  the  museum  of  Seville  is  more  important  for  an 
appreciation  of  the  master  than  that  at  the  Brado. 

It  has  lately  become  fashionable  to  depreciate  Murillo  in  con- 
trast with  Velazquez,  partly  in  reaction  against  his  popularity  with 
the  layman  and  partly  on  technical  and  artistic  grounds.  It  appears 
to  us  that  neither  reason  is  justified.  The  two  masters  should  not 
be  compared  —  the  one  holds  the  mirror  to  nature  and  his  period, 
the  other  shows  us  what  lies  behind  the  brow.  Murillo,  who  lived 
in  a  fanatically  Roman  Catholic  provincial  town  and  painted  for 
conventual  churches ,  hospitals ,  and  sacristies ,  had  to  represent, 
like  the  contemporary  Italians,  the  subjects  that  pleased  the  devout 
of  his  day,  such  as  the  Immaculate  Conception,  the  visions  of  the 
monk's  cell,  the  mysteries  and  ecstasies  of  asceticism.  He  could  not 
devote  his  entire  energy  to  the  reproduction  of  the  mere  visual  phe- 
nomenon. He  had  to  depict  what  was  never  seen }  he  had  to  wrestle 
for  y fears  with  such  a  problem  as  how  to  paint  successfully  a  human 
face  set  against  a  background  of  glowing  light.  But  his  critics 
shut  their  eyes  to  his  marvellous  mastery  of  the  illustrative  appar- 
atus, in  which  he  vies  with  the  Italians  of  the  Academic  School. 
They  assert  that  his  effects  are  purely  materialistic,  though  hundreds 
of  artists,  already  forgotten  or  quickly  passing  into  oblivion,  have 
produced  precisely  similar  effects  so  far  as  the  material  outside  is 
concerned.  The  fact  that  we  speak  of  Murillo's  St.  Antony  and 
•IsPurlsima  as  if  he  had  created  them  is  itself  a  proof  that  he  does 


MuriUo,  SPANISH  ART.  Painting.     Ixx? 

not  0176  everything  to  his  material.  It  is  more  probable  that  the 
depreciation  of  Mnrillo  —  which  sounds  especially  ungracious  in 
the  months  of  Spaniards  —  has  its  real  ground  in  the  modern 
materialist's  dislike  of  the  mystical  subjects  of  the  painter.  He 
has  represented  things  which  the  power  of  Velazquez  refused  to 
grapple  with ;  but  to  give  reality  to  the  never-seen  is  also  legitimate 
art.  He  depicts  the  miraculous  in  so  naiVe  and  intimate  a  way,  that 
it  loses  its  unnatural  character ;  and  his  pictures  are  so  simple  and 
so  tmthfiilly  felt  that  even  the  sceptic  can  appreciate  their  charm 
and  read  into  them  purely  human  ideas. 

Murillo  was  originally  as  essentially  a  realist  as  Zurbaran  or  Velaz- 
quez. If  we  consider  his  portraits  of  the  churchmen,  8t.  Ildefonso  and 
8t,  Bernard^  at  Madrid,  which  affect  us  so  soberly  in  their  legendary 
setting,  or  those  canons  of  Seville,  whom  he  has  represented  as 
8U  Leander  and  8L  Isidore^  we  are  struck  by  the  fact  that  their  in- 
dividual truthfulness  is  purer,  freer  firom  the  conventional  pattern, 
and  sometimes  even  more  ruthless  than  that  of  many  highly  esteemed 
portrait-painters  of  the  century.  Where  his  task  was  merely  to  re- 
produce the  actual,  as  in  his  famous  Groups  of  Boys  and  in  the 
rendering  of  accessories  such  as  animals,  ecclesiastical  vessels,  or 
the  contents  of  a  library,  he  has  combined  his  characteristic  broad- 
ness of  touch  with  due  attention  to  the  accuracy,  form,  and  pleas- 
ingness  of  the  external  appearance.  His  artistic  greatness ,  the 
secret  of  his  wonderful  success  lies  in  the  fact  that  he  recognized 
the  unique  character  and  special  charm  of  the  human  nature  of 
S.  Spain,  adapted  it  to  the  palette  and  the  brush,  and  ventured  to 
introduce  it  into  paintings  of  religious  subjects.  This  accounts 
for  those  elastic  figures,  the  soft  and  supple  forms  of  which  lend 
themselves  much  more  readily  to  painting  than  to  sculpture ;  this 
is  the  source  of  the  deep  brown  of  the  large  eyes  and  hair,  set  off 
by  a  warm  flesh-tone  reflecting  the  light.  To  many  this  seems  a 
thing  of  no  great  importance ;  but  he  was  the  first  to  discover  it, 
and  none  of  his  imitators  has  reached  his  level.  The  Andalusian 
saints  and  Madonnas  seen  elsewhere  might  just  as  well  have  been 
painted  in  Naples  or  in  Holland.  It  is  not  enough  merely  to  copy 
the  models ;  Zurbaran  has  done  so,  but  remains  frosty  and  alien. 
Murillo  has  beaten  all  competitors  in  his  grasp  of  the  feeling  of  the 
GathoUc  Christian.  Like  Rembrandt,  he  recognized  with  the  insight 
of  genius  that  Biblical  history  and  the  legends  of  the  saints  could 
be  best  narrated  In  the  dialect  of  the  people. 

There  are  no  authenticated  examples  of  Murillo*8  *prentice 
works,  the  so-called  PacotiUas  for  the  Feria  and  the  Indian  adven- 
turers. Of  the  cycle  of  Franciscan  LegendSy  with  which  he  sur- 
prized the  Sevillians  on  his  return  from  his  later  sojourn  in  Madrid 
(1645),  only  two  have  been  left  in  Spain :  —  the  Heavenly  VioUnist 
and  the  Charity  of  St.  Diego,  both  in  the  Madrid  Academy.  Th 
latter,  a  beggar-piece,  is  the  most  unpretending  of  the  series,  b 


Ixxvi     Painting.  SPANISH  ART.  MuriUo. 

is  full  of  truth,  pathos,  and  humour.  The  other  pieces  of  the  cycle, 
in  which  he  allowed  his  talent  for  depicting  the  miraculous  to  play 
in  the  most  unfettered  and  most  marYellously  versatile  manner,  are 
now  scattered  in  Paris,  Toulouse,  New  York,  and  England. 

Murillo,  the  pupil  of  a  careless  and  incorrect  academician  like 
Juan  de  Castillo,  would  not  have  become  what  he  was,  if  he  had  not 
also  undergone  the  purging  of  both  phrase  and  manner  offered 
by  the  naturalism  of  the  period .  His  study  of  Ribera  is,  «.p. ,  shown 
by  his  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds  and  by  his  earliest  system  of  light. 
Many  of  his  earlier  paintings  (such  as  the  Annunciation)  are 
cold  and  sombre  in  tone,  sad  in  colouring,  black  in  the  shadows, 
jejune  and  trivial  in  character  and  expression.  The  picture  of 
8t,  Ildefomo^  with  its  chattering  angels,  rather  resembles  the  choice 
of  a  gown  at  a  couturier's  than  an  investiture  with  the  celestial 
casulla.  This  early  style  is  known  as  the  Estilo  Fkio  (cold  style). 
Such  generalizations,  however,  must  not  be  applied  in  too  sweeping 
a  manner,  as,  e.y.,  the  Rebecca  at  the  Well  belongs  to  this  period. 
MuriUo  is  never  more  attractive  than  in  his  scenes  of  patriarchal 
life  j  his  home,  indeed,  was  semi-Oriental. 

His  next  phase,  known  as  the  Kstilo  Calido  (warm  style),  is 
marked  by  deeper  colouring  and  strong  contrasts  of  light  and 
shadow ;  but  the  light  is  actual  light,  and  the  plastic  forms  are 
well  defined.  Good  specimens  of  this  style  are  the  charming  Virgin 
and  Child,  the  St.  Bernard,  and  the  Holy  Family  in  the  Carpenter's 
Shop.  It  is  only  here  and  there  that  we  find  proof  of  his  study  of 
the  nude,  as,  e.g.,  in  his  Resurrection  at  the  Academy,  the  interest 
of  which  is  mainly  technical.  His  St.  Antony  in  the  baptistery  of 
Seville,  denoting  the  high-water  mark  of  his  art,  dates  from  1666, 
or  scarcely  a  decade  after  his  artistic  new  birth. 

Murillo's  last  style,  peculiar  to  himself,  is  known  as  el  Vapo- 
Boso,  from  a  certain  vaporous  or  misty  effect  that  it  produces.  He 
here  shows  the  unmistakable  influence  of  Rubens,  whom  he  had 
studied  in  engravings.  The  struggle  of  all  great  colourists  to  over- 
come the  heaviness,  opacity,  and  hardness  of  matter  led  Murillo  to 
his  last  system.  Although  still  of  solid  impasto  (hence  the  enduring 
quality  of  his  painting),  his  brush-work  is  now  loose  and  firee ;  he 
produces  his  effect  by  a  variety  of  tints  melting  into  one  another;  he 
arranges  the  drapery  now  in  sharp  folds,  now  in  flat  He  models 
in  the  light  without  the  aid  of  grey  shadows ;  his  palette  is  full  of 
cheerful  and  warm  colours ;  his  figures  are  overflowing  with  life 
and  sensibility ;  he  has-found  the  secret  of  so  dematerializing  them, 
partly  through  their  gestures  and  partly  through  his  handling  of 
drapery,  chiaroscuro,  and  accessories,  that  they  seem  to  float  in  the 
air;  his  visions  are,  as  it  were,  woven  of  light  and  air. 

To  this  last  style  belongs  the  great  Cycle  in  the  Church  of  the 
C'iridad,  of  which  the  Moses,  the  Feeding  of  the  Five  Thousand, 
and  the  St.  Juan  de  Dies  are  still  in  situ,  while  the  St.  Elizabeth  is  in 


MuriUo.  SPANISH  ART.  Painting.     Ixxvil 

the  Madrid  Academy.  The  two  pictnres  referring  to  the  foundation 
of  Santa  Maria  Maggiore  (Dream  of  the  Rotnan  KnightJ^  the  Holy 
Children  at  the  Springy  and  the  Poreiuneula  (all  at  Madrid)  also 
date  from  this  period.  His  mastery  over  his  materials  is  shown  at 
its  height  in  his  latest  Cycle  for  the  Capuchin  Churehj  the  chief  poss- 
ession of  the  Seville  Museum.  The  ascetic  has  never  been  moro 
convincingly  or  attractively  represented  than  in  the  St.  Francis  em- 
bracing the  crucifix.  The  main  central  painting,  the  Porduncula, 
probably  the  richest  canvas  he  ever  painted,  is  unfortunately 
absent;  its  ruined  remains  are  in  the  picture-gallery  of  Pau. 

Murillo,  who  transferred  the  children  of  the  gutter  to  canvas 
with  such  unexampled  fidelity,  was  not  less  successful  with  chil- 
dren of  a  nobler  mould.  His  wanton  cherubs  in  the  clouds,  the 
thoughtful  angels  of  somewhat  older  growth,  the  youthful  John  and 
Jesus  with  their  expression  of  unconscious  foreboding,  and  the  child 
Mary  as  the  pupil  of  her  mother,  a  dainty  and  Intelligent  little 
maiden :  —  all  are  charming  in  their  way.  Indeed  it  might  be  said 
that  MuriUo  is  successful  just  in  proportion  to  the  youthfulness  of 
his  figures.  Probably  no  one  can  stand  unmoved  opposite  the  child- 
like i\<fisima  in  the  Prado  Museum.  Old  age  is  a  kind  of  second 
childhood ;  hence  his  venerable  saints  affect  us  in  a  similar  manner. 
The  colossal  and  forcibly  painted  Madonna  of  the  VenerabHeB  (Seville 
Museum)  proves  that  nobility,  simple  breadth  of  drawing,  and 
dignity  of  gesture  were  all  at  his  command.  No  Italian  or  Flemish 
master,  dealing  in  equally  conventional  externalities,  is  so  ver- 
satile in  type,  age,  conception,  and  effect  of  light.  This  variety 
in  his  system  of  presentation ,  being  determined  by  no  limits  of 
time,  makes  it  difficult  to  fix  the  chronological  order. of  his  works. 

The  description  of  MuriUo  as  an  improvisatore,  who  'sings  as 
the  bird  sings*,  is  not  very  apposite.  Few  men  have  so  well  under- 
stood the  art  of  pictorial  composition  or  known  so  well  how  to  charm 
the  eye  by  gradations  of  light,  skilful  attitudes,  and  adroit  fore- 
shortenings  ;  few  painters  have  calculated  their  effects  more  care- 
fally.  This  may  be  well  studied  in  his  extremely  thoughtful  Sketch 
of  St.  Andrew,  at  Madrid.  One  of  his  most  telling  effects,  especially 
in  scenes  of  visionary  illumination,  is  the  penetration  of  the 
dark  wall  by  the  vista  of  a  cloister  or  patio  bathed  in  the  cool  light 
of  day. 

The  pupils  of  Mnrillo,  like  Meneaez  Osorio  and  Alonso  Miguel 
de  Tobar,  sometimes  inherited  the  graceful  charm  of  their  master, 
but  their  works  show  their  inferiority  by  gloomy  expression  and  the 
emptiness  of  their  forms.  Several  of  the  contemporaries  and  rivals 
of  the  aging  Murillo,  such  as  Herrera  the  Younger,  are  unattractive 
'bravura'  painters.  The  slight  works  of  Feakcisco  Antolinez, 
with  their  numerous  figures  and  cheerful  colouring,  are  often  taken 
for  'sketches'  by  Murillo.  A  special  place  is  taken  by  Sebastian 
DB  Llanos  t  ValdAj,  whose  oblong  pictures,  with  their  lifelike 


lixvlli    Painting,  SPANISH  ABT.  Velazqiut. 

half-length  figures,   are  painted  in  the  spirit  of  Garavaggio  and 
Honthorst  and  ^ith  a  carefulness  seldom  exhibited  in  this  period. 


Probably  there  is  no  other  instance  in  which  the  works  of  a 
great  master  can  be  studied  under  such  favourably  conditions  as 
those  of  Diego  Velazquez  (1599-1660)  in  the  Prado  Museum  at 
Madrid.  Though  not  containing  all  his  works,  this  collection  yet 
contains  so  many  of  them,  including  all  his  larger  compositions, 
that  the  student  can  obtain  an  adequate  idea  of  this  painter  without 
leaying  the  building.  And  all  these  paintings  are  still  in  the  place 
where  they  were  originally  executed  and  are  still  surrounded  by  a 
living  commentary  of  man  and  nature.  Velazquez  is  undoubtedly 
the  greatest  artistic  genius  that  the  school  x)f  Seville  has  produced, 
though  he  was  of  Portuguese  origin  and  properly  named  De  SUva, 
He  owed  his  thorough  training  in  the  fundamentals  of  his  art  to  his 
father-in-law  Pacheoo  (p.  Ixvii),  while  differing  from  him  widely 
in  talent  and  spirit.  Like  Cervantes  in  letters,  so  he  in  art  was  the 
only  master  to  elevate  the  element  of  realism  in  the  Spanish 
character  to  the  sphere  of  genius ;  neither  can  be  compared  with  the 
great  men  of  any  other  nation.  From  the  greatest  painter  of  Holland 
the  Spaniard  is  distingaished  by  his  want  of  fancy.  While,  however, 
Rembrandt  often  translates  us  to  a  foreign  world  by  his  lighting, 
costume,  and  highly  accentuated  subjectivity,  Velazquez's  represent- 
ations on  the  other  hand,  in  spite  of  the  intensity  of  their  purely 
Spanish  essence,  can  yet  be  used  for  all  time  as  a  standard  of  free- 
dom from  conventionality  and  subjectivity,  and  for  the  unfettered 
vision  of  nature  which  grasps  the  whole  truth  of  the  optical  pheno- 
menon without  either  addition  or  loss. 

Of  his  earliest  studies  in  the  so-called  Tavern  Piboes  (Bode- 
gones)  none  remain  in  Spain ;  of  his  early  Religious  Pieces  one 
only,  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi  at  the  Prado  (1619).  These  pictures 
are  of  interest  as  showing  that  Ribera  was  his  first  model,  though 
his  Magi  are  portraits  of  Sevillian  gentlemen  and  his  Madonna  is 
merely  an  Andalusian  peasant,  entirely  destitu'e  of  the  beauty 
and  poetry  of  the  Valencian  master's  conception.  His  praise  of 
Luis  Tristan  is  probably  due  to  the  fact  that  this  master  was  great 
in  chiaroscuro ;  the  Prado  possesses  nothing  by  this  painter,  but 
there  are  several  large  works  by  him  in  the  churches  of  Toledo  and 
Yepes.  Feeling  very  rightly  that  he  was  not  in  his  proper  place 
at  Seville,  where  painting  flourished  solely  by  the  patronage  of  the 
church  and  the  convent,  Velazquez  strove  to  gain  a  footing  at 
court,  succeeding  on  his  second  attempt  (1623).  The  success  of 
his  first  efforts  to  please  his  new  circle,  especially  of  his  Equestrian 
Portrait  of  Philip  IV,  (now  lost),  was  immediate  and  permanent. 
He  was  also  brought  into  personal  contact  with  the  king  and  his 
all-powerful  minister  through  holding  a  series  of  oourt-offlces,  cul- 
'iinating  in  that  of  Marshal  of  the  Palace.   His  many  engrossing  oc- 


Velatques.  SPANISH  ART.  PaiiUhig.     Ixxix 

cnpatioDS,  the  propinquity  of  the  monarch  (who  often  visited  him  in 
his  studio),  and  a  dash  of  Spanish  indolence  partly  explain  his 
later  style,  remarkahle  for  its  incredible  simplicity  and  speed.  This 
quality  appeals  to  the  craftsman  as  distinct  from  the  artist,  and  it  has 
raised  an  army  of  imitators,  who  acquired  his  technique  superficially 
but  utterly  failed  to  fathom  the  purpose  for  which  he  had  formed  it. 

His  Early  Pobtiuitb  (painted  between  1623  and  1629),  in- 
cluding those  of  the  King,  Von  Carlos,  Qongora,  and  the  Jnfania 
Maria^  are  of  a  rare  plastic  power,  but  also  show  a  certain  degree 
of  hardness,  with  narrow  shadows  on  an  empty,  often  light-coloured 
background.  The  only  extant  Composition  in  this  first  style  is  The 
Topers  (Loa  Borrdchos),  a  kind  of  parody  of  the  initiation  cere- 
mony of  an  Order,  the  knights  of  which  are  tramps  and  peasants. 
The  modelling  of  the  nude  youth,  the  expression  of  drunken  satis- 
faction in  the  heads  of  the  old  men,  the  truth  to  life  of  these 
popular  Gastilian  types  (resembling  ihe  satyrs  of  Qreek  art)  make 
this  piece  the  gem  of  all  southern  *bambocciate\ 

Plastic  and  spacial  truthfulness  was  the  goal  that  Velazquez 
held  steadfastly  in  view ;  colour  was  with  him  merely  a  means  to 
an  end  and  was  strictly  confined  to  this  function.  If  at  first  he  at- 
tained this  goal  through  the  easier  and  yet  effective  methods  of  the 
naturalist,  he  afterwards  grappled  with  the  more  difllcult  problem 
of  modelling  in  pervasive  and  reflected  day-light.  The  turning- 
point  is  marked  by  his  FntST  Joubnbt  to  Italy,  the  fulfilment  of 
a  long- cherished  wish. 

Soon  after  completing  the  ^Borraohos^  YelaJ^quez  set  out  for 
Italy  (1629).  His  first  visit  was  to  Venice,  whose  masters  Titian  and 
Tintoretto  attracted  him  more  than  all  other  Italians  and  alone  ex- 
ercised a  practical  influence  on  him.  His  stay  in  Italy  was  cut  short 
by  a  summons  from  the  king,  but  he  succeeded  in  making  a  Sboond 
Journey  thither  on  the  pretext  of  buying  pictures  for  the  royal  col- 
lection. In  Rome  he  lived  at  the  Villa  Medici,  and  abandoned  himself 
freely  to  the  quaint  landscape-charms  of  the  Roman  gardens.  The  two 
large  pictures  that  he  painted  here  (  Vulcan's  Forge  and  The  Coat  of 
Many  Colours)  prove,  however,  that  neither  the  antiques,  by  which 
he  was  surrounded,  nor  the  Vatican,  where  he  often  sketched,  were 
able  to  move  him  one  hair's  breadth  from  the  course  he  had  pre- 
viously pursued.  The  Vulcan  scene  was  obviously  selected  as  an 
opportunity  for  the  delineation  of  nude  figures,  which  here,  in  spite 
of  the  cave  and  the  furnace,  are  painted  almost  without  shadow. 
In  this  respect,  as  well  as  in  the  grouping  and  in  its  dramatic  in- 
tensity, this  work  stands  almost  without  a  rival.  The  trivial  con- 
ception of  the  mythological  material,  in  the  style  of  the  Spanish 
comedy,  was  for  him  a  mere  humorous  accompaniment. 

To  this  Sbcond  Style  belong  a  number  of  his  best  Pobtbaits, 
inehding  those  of  the  Young  King,  his  brother  Ferdinand,  and  the 
Infante  in  Hunting  Dress  (hastily  painted  for  the  chateau  of  Pardol 


Ixxx     Painting.  SPANISH  ART,  Velazquez. 

His  unique  and  many -figured  Hunting  Pieces  are  represented, 
in  Madrid  solely  by  a  copy  of  the  Boar  Hunt  now  in  the  London 
National  Gallery,  here  every  figure  would  afford  material  for  a 
large  picture.  —  A  little  later  came  the  large  Equestrian  Portraits 
of  Philip  IV.,  Prince  Balthasar,  and  OUvares,  the  Portrait  of  Count 
Benaventey  and,  lastly,  the  five  Dwarfs  and  the  Buffoons  (Truhanes), 
completing  a  truer  and  more  exhaustive  series  of  illustrations  of 
social  life  than  any  other  modem  court  fan  show.  —  The  hlue 
ocean  of  light,  the  silvery  tone  of  the  wide  slopes  of  lonely,  sparsely 
wooded  valleys,  contrasting  with  the  warm  red,  brown,  and  yellow 
tints  of  the  mounted  figures,  produce  an  ineffable  effect.  Velazquez 
poses  his  characters  in  the  most  ordinary  and  conventional  way ; 
he  considers  it  needless  to  enliven  them  with  picturesque  attitudes ; 
their  expression  is  that  of  men  who  believe  themselves  unobserved. 
Their  attractiveness  lies  in  their  unflinching  truthfulness.  Velaz- 
quez is  of  all  portrait  painters  the  one  who  puts  least  of  himself 
into  his  pictures.  He  carries  his  individualization  into  complexion, 
habitual  expression,  and  nervous  tension.  He  emphasizes  rather  than 
softens  individual  characteristics,  even  when  they  are  unpleasing. 
His  style  is  redolent  of  the  pride  which  recks  not  how  it  may  look 
to  others.  With  a  thin  impasto  he  attains  a  relief  and  a  play  of 
light  in  the  equable  illumination  of  his  skies,  compared  with  which 
even  the  Venetians  seem  heavy  and  untrue. 

All  the  qualities  of  his  large  equestrian  portraits  are  found  in 
his  most  important  historical  composition ,  the  Surrender  of  Breda, 
When  we  compare  it  with  the  earlier  representation  of  the  event  as 
seen  from  the  ordinary  Spanish  view-point  by  Jos^  Leonardo,  we 
are  struck  by  the  innate  superiority  of  Velazquez  and  by  the  true 
nobility  of  his  way  of  thinking.  This  scene  of  the  victor  wishing 
well  to  the  vanquished  is  like  a  final  and  friendly  note  signalizing 
the  end  of  eighty  years  of  international  enmity.  The  great  war  was 
never  so  vividly  depicted  as  in  the  military  figures  compressed 
within  this  narrow  area.  To  appreciate  it  fully,  we  must  try  to 
imagine  how  others  would  have  treated  the  same  subject. 

After  his  second  Italian  journey  a  Third  Makner  becomes 
apparent  in  his  way  of  painting.  With  a  still  more  delicate  spirit 
of  observation  he  endeavours  to  realize  the  visual  phenomenon  and 
to  fix  the  general  effect  with  quick  strokes  of  the  brush,  without 
for  a  moment  losing  sight  of  the  whole.  In  the  Family  of  Philip  IV, 
or  Las  Menmas  he  has  chosen  the  twilight  of  a  large  and  deep 
room.  The  movement  of  the  figures  in  their  different  and  yet  nearly 
touching  planes,  their  almost  stereoscopic  fulness,  the  definite 
materialization  of  the  indefinite ,  the  perpetuation  of  a  single  mo- 
ment —  all  this  gives  the  work  a  dreamlike  charm.  It  is  as  if  we 
were  looking  through  some  magic  telescope  into  the  domestic  in- 
terior of  the  Hapsburg  prince.  In  Las  HiUideras,  probably  the  first 
view  of  a  manufactory  ever  painted,  he  grappled  with  a  different 


Madrid  School,  SPANISH  ART.  PodnUng.    Ixzxi 

problem  and  solved  it  with  a  mastery  which  has  not  heen  approached 
unto  this  day.  Here  he  depicts  the  effect  of  a  strong  beam  of  sun- 
light in  a  closed  room,  showing  its  reflections,  dazzles,  and  contrasts, 
and  the  way  in  which  it  brings  out  the  colours  of  the  rich  stuffs 
it  falls  upon.  Luca  Giordano  named  the  Menlnas  the  'Theology 
of  Painting* ;  Mengs  asserted  that  theHiladeras  seemed  to  be  painted 
by  pure  thought,  without  the  aid  of  the  hand.  These  pictures  are, 
indeed,  the  non  plus  ultra  of  painting. 

Velazquez  founded  no  school;  his  art  was  an  emanation  of 
qualities  too  personal  to  be  taught  to  others.  His  view  of  nature, 
tiie  versatile,  improvisatore-llke  inspiration  of  his  hand  could  not 
be  transmitted.  Still  he  trained  a  few  assistants,  among  whom  his 
son-in-law,  J.  B.  dblMazo  (d.  1687),  takes  the  first  place.  Mazo*s 
portraits  and  landscapes  with  accessories  are  often  difficuit  to  distin- 
guish from  those  of  his  master.  They  may  usually  be  recognized  by 
their  more  sombre  tones,  the  more  confused  brush-work,  and  small 
errors  in  drawing.  His  talent  lay  in  the  delineation  of  landscapes, 
which  he  peopled  with  mythological  groups.  Some  are  in  the  manner 
of  Salvator  Rosa.  His  best  piece  is  the  View  ofSa/ragossa^  the  access- 
ories of  which  are  by  his  father-in-law.  The  only  specimen  in  the 
museum  from  the  brush  of  Velazquez's  emancipated  slave  Juan 
Pa&eja  (1606-70)  is  the  Calling  of  8t,  Matthew,  The  man  who 
could  produce  so  admirable  a  work  as  this  must  have  painted  many 
others;  but  all  .have  disappeared.  The  Baptian  of  Christ,  his  only 
canvas  in  the  old  national  museum,  has  been  banished  to  Huesca. 


In  the  Sbcond  Half  of  ths  17th  Gbmtu&t  Madrid  had  absorbed 
nearly  all  the  talent  of  the  country,* and  quite  a  group  of  skilful 
painters  were  then  at  work  there.  They  may  be  termed  the  Madrid 
School.  Their  artistic  genealogy  is  of  little  importance.  They  owe 
their  manner,  not  to  their  generally  obscure  teachers,  but  to  the 
study  of  Titian,  Rubens,  and  the  other  great  Italian  and  Flemish 
colourists  in  the  royal  residences.  A  trace  of  the  influence  of  Velaz- 
quez also  is  perceptible  here  and  there.  Almost  all  possessed  the 
talent  of  colour;  their  touch  is  dexterous  and  light;  they  may 
generally  be  known  by  their  beautiful  golden  and  blue  tints,  the 
latter  due  to  the  ultramarine  furnished  them  by  the  court,  Their 
drawing  is  sometimes  careless.  In  their  subjects,  in  their  animated 
composition,  in  invention  and  sensibility  they  resemble  theii  Italian 
contemporaries;  their  feeling  for  the  picturesque  is  on  a  higher 
level  and  more  Flemish  than  Italian.  Few  paintings  by  these 
masters  are  to  be  seen  in  the  great  galleries ;  their  works,  scattered 
amid  numerous  smaller  places,  are  difficult  to  find,  and  when  found 
often  difficult  to  see  on  account  of  dust  and  bad  light  As  the  circles 
that  set  the  fashion  took  no  interest  in  the  earlier  Spanish  schools, 
many  good  pictures  in  the  old  Fomento  Museum  were  dispersed 

Babdbksb's  Spain.  f 


lixxii     Painimg.  SPANISH  ART.        1 7ihand  18th  Cent.  : 

among  the  provincial  museuips;  and  of  many  our  knowledge  is 
confined  to  the  lists  of  their  names  in  Palomino  and  Oean  Bermudez. 
A  few  important  works  have  lately  found  their  way  back  to  Madrid 
flrom  the  former  collection  of  the  Infante  Sebastian  at  Pau. 

Juan  Gabbeno  (1614-86)  was  the  successor  of  Velazquez  as 
court-painter.  His  portraits  of  Charles  II.,  his  mother  Marianne  in 
nun's  dress,  and  the  second  Don  John  of  Austria  are  akin  to  those 
of  Vielazquez  in  conception,  though  painted  in  a  somewhat  duller 
style.  They  also  show  suggestions  of  Van  Dyck.  They  narrate  with 
sad  eloquence  the  gloomy  story  of  the  fall  of  a  royal  house  and  of 
the  period  of  the  deepest  degradation  of  the  Spanish  state.  No  other 
painter  has  so  nearly  rivalled  Rubens's  glow  of  colouring  as  Matbo 
Gbbezo  (1635-76),  whose  masterpiece  is  in  the  chapter-house  of 
PciUncia,  Closely  akin  to  him  are  Jose  AntoUnez  (1639-76)  and  tlsca- 
Xante  (1630-70 ;  Miracle  of  the  Loaves  and  Fishes  at  Puig,  near 
Valencia).  The  dream-like  effect  of  Cerezo's  visions  sometimes 
suggests  the  school  of  Rembrandt.  The  numerous  sketchy  works  of 
Francisco  Riti  (1608-85)  have  something  of  the  shimmering  colour 
effect  of  an  Oriental  textile  fabric.  These  artists  often  painted 
scenes  for  the  theatre  at  the  Buen  Retire,  and  this  practice  in- 
fluenced their  styles.  Diego  Polo  (1620-65)  tries  to  make  himself 
thoroughly  at  home  in  Titian's  later  manner.  Cabexalero  (1633-73) 
is  pithy  in  modelling  and  colour.  Much  promise  is  contained  in  the 
historical  works  of  JoaS  Leonardo  (1616-66),  who  died  young.  One 
of  the  most  scholarly  of  the  group  was  8d>a8tian  Munoz  (1664-90), 
who  achieved  great  success  in  chiaroscuro.  Arias  Fernandez  and 
Francisco  Camilo  are  of  less  importance.  The  court  also  employed 
flower  painters  like  Arellano, 

Only  a  "few  held  fast  to  the  severely  naturalistic  and  individu- 
alizing method  of  the  great  masters  of  the  first  half  of  the  century, 
with  their  delight  in  details.  Among  these  is  Antonio  Pbbeda 
(1599-1669),  whose  allegorical  and  ascetic  compositions  showed 
that  he  was  meant  for  a  painter  of  still-life ;  his  chief  work  is  his 
Lament  at  P<m.  Another  is  Fbay  Juan  Rizi  (1596-1675),  the  great 
monkish  painter  of  the  school,  a  Oastilian  Zurbaran,  whose  master- 
pieces must  be  sought  in  San  Millan  de  la  CoguUa,  The  outside  of 
the  choir  of  the  cathedral  of  Burgos  is  also  adorned  with  interesting 
paintings  by  him,  bearing  the  genuine  Oastilian  stamp. 

The  latest  and  most  eminent  of  the  group  is  CiiAUDio  Oobx«lo 
(16B?-93),  who  recalls  the  Flemings  by  the  gorgeousness  of  his 
light  and  colouring  and  by  his  somewhat  coarse  forms.  His  most 
remarkable  work  is  the  Festival  of  the  Santa  Forma  at  the  Bscorial, 
a  cabinet-piece  of  realism.  Here  we  see  the  perspective  of  the 
sacristy,  as  well  as  of  the  altar  which  serves  as  screen,  in  a  kind  of 
fairy  mirror  which  reflects  the  figures  of  the  past  with  a  ghostly 
actuality.  With  Coello,  who  died  of  grief  over  the  summoning 
of  Luoa  Giordano,  the  old  Spanish  school  may  be  said  to  have  ended. 


Franrmo  Goya.  SPANISH  ART.  Painting.     Ixzxiii 

Palomino  (1653-17!26),  who  belongs  partly  to  the  Bourhon  period, 
deserYsdly  earned  the  name  of  the  Spanish  Vasarl  for  his  *Mu8eo 
Pictorico'.  Through  him  Spanish  painting  entered  the  lists  with 
the  great  ceiling-decorators  ]  and  his  paintings  on  the  vaults  of  the 
church  of  Los  Santos  Jaanes  in  Valencia  hold  their  own  with  the 
efforts  of  Solimena  and  the  Cavaliere  del  Pozzo. 

Thus  in  the  18th  Gbntubt  the  national  art  had  apparently  ab- 
dicated. The  Bourbon  dynasty  brought  with  It  the  French  taste,  and 
a  room  at  .the  museom  is  devoted  to  this  branch  of  art  (  Van  Loo^ 
Family  of  Philip  V.).  At  the  same  time  the  Spaniard  remained 
faithful  to  his  desire  for  the  coryphni  of  the  East,  whose  names 
were  so  blazoned  abroad  by  the  trumpet  of  fame.  Lnca  Giordano 
was  followed,  in  the  reign  of  Charles  III.,  by  the  antipodes  of  the 
centary :  Tiepolo,  the  prophet  of  the  modems,  and  Raphael  Mengs^ 
the  last  shadow  of  eclectic  mannerism  (royal  palace).  The  native 
artists  who  played  a  part  by  their  side,  such  as  JBai/m,  Maella, 
Zaearia  Velazquez^  and  Herrera  Bamiteuo,  now  appeal  to  a  very 
limited  class  of  students. 

The  War  of  Independence  showed  to  an  astonished  Europe  that 
centuries  of  despotism,  the  reign  of  favourites,  and  general  mis- 
government  had  still  left  intact  the  patriotism  and  strength  of  the 
Spanish  people.  Thus  the  painter  Francisco  Ooya  (1746-1828),  at 
the  end  of  the  18th  cent.,  once  more  introduced  to  us,  through  the 
medium  of  his  painting,  that  old  Spain,  the  Spain  of  the  great 
comedy-writers ,  which  fell  a  prey  to  the  slow  but  sure  process  of 
destruction  after  the  restoration  of  the  Bourbons.  Goya,  indeed, 
painted  everything,  even  Church  Pietures  (sacristy  of  the  cathedral 
of  Toledo,  cathedral  of  Valencia,  San  Antonio  del  Prado),  but  no 
man  and  no  period  were  less  naturally  adapted  for  that  kind  of  work. 
No  one  will  look  at  his  religious  pieces  until  he  has  first  become 
interested  in  him  on  other  grounds.  In  his  PariraiU  he  has,  per- 
haps, pushed  the  unvarnished  truthfulness  of  the  17th  cent,  to  the 
point  of  brutality.  His  Family  of  OiarUs  IV,  is  a  satire,  which 
suggests  and  renders  credible  the  most  disreputable  chronicles  of 
the  secret  history  of  the  times.  His  painting  is  cold  and  heavy, 
with  black  as  its  dominant  tone.  But  we  forget  this  as  we  stand 
before  those  innumerable  improvised  figures  and  scenes  in  which, 
with  a  rare  genius  for  the  typical  and  the  momentary,  he  has  for 
ever  imprisoned  life,  both  in  its  most  striking  and  its  most  trivial 
phases,  with  his  brush  and  his  burin.  Goya's  etchings  of  Bull  Fights, 
Scenes  of  Madrid  Life,  the  Inquisition^  and  the  series  known  as  ^Los 
Caprichos'  form  the  most  valued  plates  in  the  portfolio  of  the  col- 
lector of  Spanish  scenes.  The  Prado  contains  his  Cartoons  of 
Spanish  Festivals  and  Dances,  These  reveal  the  satlrio  observation  of 
a  Hogarth,  the  humour  of  Teniers  and  his  comprehension  of  papula^ 
life,  and  a  chaos  of  forms  emanating  from  the  witches'  cauldron  ' 

f* 


Ixxxlv    Painting.  SPANISH  ART.  i9th  C^tuty. 

a  Bosch  or  a  Brueghel.  In  his  Dos  de  Mayo  he  has  flzed  for  ever, 
with  demonic  power,  two  terrihle  moments  of  the  War  of  Independ- 
ence ;  in  the  hlood-curdliug  Desaatres  de  la  Ouerra  he  has  held  the 
mirror  up  to  war.  At  the  same  time  no  one  has  so  thoroughly  under- 
stood the  irrepressible  and  intensive  gaiety  of  the  Spaniard's  enjoy- 
ment of  life  ill  his  festive  moments. 

Goya  was  followed  by  the  Spanish  David,  Josi  db  Madbazo 
(1781-1859),  the  dictator  of  art  at  the  court  of  Ferdinand  VII.  and 
the  first  director  of  the  newly  founded  picture-gallery.  His  old- 
Roman  comedians,  with  their  limbs  functioning  like  semaphores,  and 
other  works  of  a  similar  calibre  (like  the  Aparieio%  can  be  compared 
at  the  Prado  with  the  works  of  Goya  and  duly  laughed  over.  Spain 
was  then  influenced  by  the  romantic  school,  and  great  things  were 
hoped  from  Qalofri  and  Fedtrigo  de  Madrazo  (1816-94).  The  laUer 
afterwards  turned  his  attention  to  portraits  with  considerable  success. 

The  Contemporary  Spanish  School  shows  that  the  artistic  vein 
revealed  by  the  nation  in  the  17th  cent,  is  by  no  means  exhausted. 
The  masters  who  may  be  grouped  together  under  this  title  have 
been  trained  in  Paris  and  prefer  to  paint  there  or  at  Rome  rather 
than  at  home.  Their  merits  were  also  first  recognized  and  rewarded 
by  foreigners.  The  Academy  of  San  Fernando  has  little  responsibil- 
ity fox  them,  but  they  are  essentially  Spanish  for  all  that.  Their 
best  pictures  have  made  the  tour  of  the  exhibitions  of  Europe  and 
have  recalled  the  almost  forgotten  Spain  to  an  honourable  position 
in  the  world  of  art.  Their  strangeness  and  novelty  have  met  with  a 
highly  favourable  reception  and  criticism.  Their  large  historical 
works  have  proved  the  continued  existence  of  the  old  Spanish  taste 
for  the  serious,  the  dignified,  the  tragic,  and  even  the  horrible.  They 
accord  well  with  the  interest  in  the  great  national  past  that  is  so 
carefally  cultivated  on  Spanish  soil.  The  subjects  are  often  sensat- 
ional episodes  from  Spanish  history,  but  scenes  from  Shakespeare 
and  other  poets  are  also  popular.  The  most  prominent  masters  of  the 
day  are  Francisco  Peadilla  (b.  1847)  and  Jos^  Bbnllixjrb  (b. 
1856).  Their  technical  qualities  are  often  on  a  pax  with  those  of  the 
modern  French  school.  The  brush-work  is  almost  always  marked  by 
a  broad  impasto  pushed  to  the  verge  of  brutality  or  to  an  affectation 
of  insolent  'bravura'.  The  misleading  bye-paths  are  easy  to  detect. 
Many  of  these  painters  would  feel  themselves  disloyal  to  the  national 
spirit,  if  they  discovered  themselves  exercising  care  or  industry  in 
drawing  and  execution.  The  most  earnest  study  is  devoted  to  the 
archsological  apparatus';  costume  and  artistic  accessories,  the  dress 
of  the  past,  are  reproduced  with  knowledge  and  artistic  feeling.  The 
figures  are  of  more  questionable  import,  while  it  is  obvious  that 
the  faces  and  expressions  form  the  hardest  problem  of  the  painter, 
over  which  he  hurries  as  rapidly  as  possible. 

Another  tendency,  the  fugleman  of  which  was  the  Catalan  Ma- 


Contemp.   School.  SPANISH  ART.  Painting,     Ixxxv 

KiANo  FoBTUMT  (1839-74),  concerns  itself  with  representations 
of  the  small  details  of  modem  life.  It  forms  a  striking  contrast  to 
the  above-mentioned  school ;  the  only  thing  it  had  in  common  with 
it  is  the  taste  for  bric-k-brac,  easily  referred  to  the  Parisian  training 
of  each  set  of  artists.  Fortuny  possessed  a  feeling  for  harmony  and 
pungency  of  colouring  like  that  of  the  weavers  and  carpet-makers 
of  Persia  and  Cashmere.  His  masterpiece,  the  BaitU  of  TeUum^  in 
the  city-hall  of  Barcelona,  was  unfortunately  left  unfinished.  A  few 
specially  gifted  masters  know  how  to  combine  the  painting  of  small 
details  with  that  of  great  historical  subjects.  Of  the  Spaniards  it 
may  be  asserted  that,  on  the  whole,  they  know  better  than  (e.p.)  the 
Italians  how  to  make  the  most  of  the  artistic  value  of  their  national 
costumes,  types,  and  manners.  They  are  also  irresistibl/  attracted 
by  the  fashionable  elegance  of  the  'capital  of  the  world';  Paris  is 
their  Mecca.  Some  modem  Spanish  painters  move  with  success  in 
this  world  of.  frivolity.  —  The  church  goes  empty-handed  away  f^om 
the  modem  painter,  if  we  overlook  the  common  pieces  seen  in  the 
sacristy.  A  collection  of  modem  works  purchased  by  the  state  has 
been  begun  in  the  new  national  museum. 

Engliah  readers  who  wish  to  follow  up  this  subject  may  consult  Sir 
William  Stirling- Maxiceirs  'Annals  of  the  Artists  of  Spain'  (new  edit., 
London,  1891)  and  Sir  Edmond  W  HeadTi  'Handbook  of  the  History  of  the 
Spanish  and  Freneh  Schools  of  Paintine ^  (London,  1848).  'Les  Musifes  d'Es- 
pagne',  by  L.  ViardQt  (Srd  ed.,  Paris«  1860),  is  alsQ  u»eful.   Oomp.  p.  xxzvn. 


SUMMARY. 


Architeetura.  —  Period  of  the  Roman  Empire ;  Yisi-         Page 
gothic  period  (414-711) ;  beginning  of  the  new  Christian 

kingdom  of  Asturias  (718  et  seq.) xli 

Romanesque  style  (ll-12th  cent.);  Gothic  style  (end 

of  12th  to  beginning  of  16th  cent) xli-xliii 

Arab  and  Moorish  buildings;  Mud^jar  or  Moorish- 
Christian  style xliii,  xliv 

Renaissance  :  Beginnings,  Herrera  StyU^  Baroque  8iyU    xliv,  xlv 
Seulptiure.  —  Remains  down  to  the  year  1000    ...  xlv 

Romanesque  sculptures  of  the  11-1 3th  centuries     .    .  xlv,  xlvi 
Northem  French  Influence  in  the  second  half  of  the 
1 3th  and  in  the  14th  cent  (especially  figures  of  the  Virgin 

and  tombs) xlvi-xlviii 

Italian  influences  in  the  15th  century zlviii 

Colonies  of  northem(Netherlandi8h  and  German)  artists 

in  the  16th  century xlvlii,xlix 

Large  decorative  works  of  the  late-Gothio  style  (end 

of  16th  century) xlix 

Influence  of  the  Italian  Early  Renaissance  from  the 
end  of  the  16th  cent  onwards;  Plateresque  Style ^  espe- 


THE  BASQUE  PROVINCES. 


e.  West  Quarters  of  the  City.  Plaia  de  Oriente. 
Royal  Palace  and  Armerfa.  Marine  Museum.  Calle 
Mayor.   Plaza  Mayor 94 

f.  South -West  Quarters  of  the  City.  San  Francisco 

el  Grande;    Calle  de  Toledo.    Rastro 104 

g.  South-East  Quarters  of  the  City.  Calle  and  Paseo 

de  Atocha 106 

h.  Environs  of  Madrid 108 

9.  Excursions  from  Madrid 108 

a,  Escorial 108 

&.  Segovia  and  La  Granja 117 

c.  Aranjuez 123 

d.  Toledo 126 

10.  From  Madrid  to  l^aragossa 161 

From  Guadalajara  to  Trillo;  to  Oaenca,  153.  —  From  Alcu- 
neza  to  Soria,  156.  —  From  Alhama  de  Aragon  to  the 
Monasterio  de  Piedra,  156.  —  From  Galatayud  to  Da- 
roca,  157. 


The  Basque  Provinces. 

The  Ckmtahrian  Range,  abutting  on  the  Pyrenees  near  the  river 
Bida$80ay  runs  thence  in  an  almost  due  W.  direction,  forming  two 
parallel  chains,  the  lower  of  which  Is  next  the  coast.  It  attains 
an  almost  Alpine  elevation  in  the  snow -clad  Penaa  de  Europa 
(8745  ft.)  in  Asturias,  and  in  Galicia  is  finally  dissipated  in  a 
number  of  low  hills.  The  E.  part  of  this  range  is  included  in  th« 
three  Basque  provinces  (Las  Provincias  Vatcongadas)  of  Ouipiizcoa, 
Vitcaya  (Biscay),  and  Atava,  with  an  area  of  2780  sq.  M.  and  510,400 
inhabitants.  The  highest  point  within  these  provinces  Is  the  Pentt 
Oorvea  (5015  ft.)  in  Vizcaya. 

The  prevalent  winds  in  this  coast- district  blow  from  the  N. 
and  N.W.  and  are  abundantly  charged  with  the  moisture  of  the 
ocean.  It  is  comparatively  seldom  that  these  give  place  to  the  S. 
wind,  which  resembles  the  Fohn  of  Switzerland  and  is  cold  in 
v^inter  and  dry  and  warm  in  summer.  The  whole  district  is  richly 
clothed  with  chestnuts,  oaks,  and  other  deciduous  trees.  The  hill 
slopes  are  covered  with  ferns,  the  meadows  remain  ftesh  and  green 
even  at  midsummer,  and  the  lower  grounds  display  groves  of  fruit 
trees  and  walnuts.  The  vine  is  also  diligently  cultivated,  and  the 
native  wine  (chacoli),  though  inferior  to  the  more  generous  vin- 
tages of  the  Ebro  and  S.  Spain,  enjoys  considerable  local  popularity. 
The  rivers  are  short  but  generally  copious,  and  some  of  them  (such 
as  the  Bidassoa  and  Ntroion)  are  navigable  at  high  tide  even  by  sear- 
going  vessels.  The  climate  is  so  mild  that  oranges,  palms,  arau- 
,carias,  and  other  sub-tropical  trees  thrive  in  a  few  sheltered  nooks 


THE  BASQUB  PROYINOBS.  3 

of  the  riyei-TaUeyB ;  but  the  general  character  of  this  picturesqve 
district  is  so  thoxoagbly  that  of  Central  Europe,  that  it  is  easy  to 
fancy  oneself  among  the  lower  parts  of  the  Bavarian  or  Austrian  Alps. 

The  SaiquM  (Euakaldanacy  Spanish  VatcongadosJ^  who  occupy 
these  provinces  and  also  the  adjoining  parts  of  Navarre  (Baztan  val- 
ley) and  the  N.W.  spurs  of  the  Pyrenees  as  far  as  Bayonne  and  the 
Gave  d'Oloxon,  claim  proudly  that  they  «re  the  oldest  race  in  Europe ; 
and  indeed,  as  the  only  and  almost  unmixed  descendants  of  the  pre- 
Aryan  aborigines  of  the  Iberian  Peninsula,  they  are  well  entitled 
to  regard  themselves  as  unique.  Their  language  (Eu9karaj  Span.  El 
VoKuinte),  which  still  survives  throughout  Spain  in  numerous 
geographical  names,  is  wholly  unintelligible  to  the  modem  Span- 
iard, and  is  stUl  in  many  respects  a  riddle  to  the  student  in  spite 
of  the  efforts  of  William  von  Humboldt  and  numerous  succeeding 
Bcholais.  The  difficulty  of  its  scientiflc  investigation  is  enhanced 
by  the  fact  that  the  Basque  literary  monuments  are  very  scanty, 
consisting  of  a  few  reUgious  writings,  some  popular  poetry  (mainly 
of  an  epic  character,  like  the  Canto  de  lot  Cantfibroa^  published  by 
Humboldt),  dirges  (ertMiac),  and  dancing  songs  (zortzicot)  t.  The 
Basque  dances,  which  are  to  be  seen  in  the  villages  on  holidays  and 
festivals,  are  of  very  early  origin  and  totally  different  from  those  in 
other  parts  of  the  peninsula.  The  music  is  furnished  by  the  village 
pipers,  who  play  a  kind  of  clarinet  (d^miyaj  and  also  beat  time  on 
a  drum.  These  viUage-festivals  afford  the  best  opportunity  of  study- 
ing the  natives  themselves.  The  men  are  strong  and  well-built; 
the  women,  who  are  also  broad-shouldered,  are  often  firesh  and 
pretty  when  young,  but  are  on  the  whole  inferior  to  other  Spanish 
women  in  beauty  and  grace.  The  features,  with  the  pointed  chin 
and  prominent,  curved  nose,  are  strongly  marked.  The  prevalent 
brown  hair,  often  quite  light  in  the  mountain- vil lages ,  forms  a 
strange  contrast  to  the  usual  raven  locks  of  the  Spaniard.  The  local 
costumes  have,  as  in  other  parts  of  Spain,  largely  disappeared.  Al- 
most the  only  survivals  are  the  bright-coloured  kerchiefs  of  the 
women,  especially  in  Yizcaya,  and  the  dark-blue  Boina  of  the  men, 
a  kind  of  biretta  or  cap  of  wool,  also  worn  by  the  French  Basques 
and  lately  introduced  into  the  French  army  as  the  headgear  of  the 
.  Alpine  chasseuiTft  and  some  other  regiments. 

In  the  larger  towns,  such  as  San  Sebastian,  Bilbao,  and  Yltoria, 
the  local  peculiarities  are  gradually  disappearing,  though  the  national 
game  of  jptfioto(comp.  p.xxix)is  still  zealously  cultivated.  In  Bilbao, 
in  Alava,  and  in  La$  Encartaciones,  or  the  portion  of  Yizcaya  to  the 

t  Tke  student  should  consult  W.  von  Bumboldt^  Priifung  der  Unter- 
SQchungen  iiber  die  tTrbewoliner  Spaniens  (Berlin,  1821);  Larrcanendi^ 
Bieeioaario  trilingfie  del  castellano,  bascuense,  y  latin  (San  Sebastian, 
17tf) ;  Vtm  Sif»i  Dictionnaire  basque-francais  (Paris,  1878) }  Arturo  Campion, 
Gramitica  euskara;  and  Prince  Lucien  Bonaparte,  La  Langue  Basque  et  les 
Langues  Finnoises.  See  also  the  excellent  article  on  the  Basques  (by 
Thos.  Dcwidson)  in  the  last  edition  of  'Chambers's  Encyclopaedia'  (1888), 

1* 


4  THE  BASQUE  PROVINCES. 

W.  of  the  Nervion,  the  Basque  language  itself  has  largely  given  way 
to  Spanish  and  is  seldom  heard  even  among  the  lower  classes.  The 
•case,  however,  is  entirely  different  in  the  kernel  of  the  Basque  pro- 
vinces, Guiptizcoa  and  W.  Vizcaya.  Here  the  peasant  clings  per- 
tinaciously to  all  his  local  customs ;  here,  as  in  the  days  of  yore,  he 
still  lives  on  his  solitary  mountain  or  valley  farm  (caserCo),  of  which 
he  is  himself  the  landlord  arid  master ;  his  house  is  built  iri  the  old 
fashion  of  stone,  with  broad,  tiat  tifed  roofs;  he  still,  to  a  large 
extent,  breaks  up  the  stony  soil  with  the  laya^  a  kind  of  clumsy 
mattock  t,  instead  of  with'  a  plough,  and  he  still  climbs  the  steep- 
est hills  and  rides  to  market  in  a  heavy  two-wheeled  ox-cart,  with 
an  elaborately  carved  yoke  covered  by  a  sheepskin. 

The  people  of  the  Basque  provinces  stand  on  a  much  higher  level 
of  civilisation  than  the  peasantry  of  the  rest  of  Spain,  and  their 
means  of  communication  are  proportionately  better.  Excellent  high- 
roads and  a  number  of  small  local  railways  facilitate  trade  and  the 
successful  exploitation  of  the  huge  deposits  of  iron  ore  in  Vizcaya 
and  the  other  mineral  treasures  of  the  district.  The  violent  moun- 
tain-torrents are  bridled  and  forced  to  use  their  strength  in  the  service 
of  industry ;  and  the  universal  activity,  diligence,  and  comfort  find 
their  only  parallel  on  Spanish  soil  in  Catalonia» 

The  HisToEY  of  the  Basque  provinces  is  a  record  of  the  deter- 
mined efforts  of  the  people  to  preserve  their  immemorial  liberties. 
A  passionate  love  of  independence  has  been  the  main  impulse  of 
the  Basque  ever  since  the  days,  when,  backed  by  the  ragged  nature 
of  his  country,  he  aided  the  remnants  of  the  Visigoths  to  stem  the 
tide  of  the  Moorish  invasion,  or  beat  back  the  ambitious  hordes  of 
Franks  who  entered  Spain  from  the  north.  He  is  now,  as  of  yore, 
^Oantaber  serd  ^iomitus  catend\  The  incorporation  of  the  provinces 
with  Leon  and  Navarre,  and  afterwards  with  Castile  (1202),  was 
not  accomplished  until  their  FuSroBj  or  special  privileges,  had 
been  solemnly  ratified.  These  futfros,  of  which  we  possess  a  list  (fbr 
Vizcaya)  dating  from  1342,  provided  for  a  republican  constitution 
in  the  three  provinces  and  for  immunity  from  taxes  and  military 
service.  They  survived  all  the  storms  of  the  ages,  until  the  Carlist 
sympathies  of  the  Basques  in  our  own  times  brought  disaster  in 
their  train.  The  Basque  volunteers  played  a  conspicuous  part  in 
both  the  Carlist  wars,  a  few,  as  Chapdgorris,  donning  the  red  boina 
and  fighting  on  the  constitutional  side,  but  most  of  them,  as  Chapel- 
churls,  wearing  the  white  cap  of  Don  Carlos.  The  end  o€  the  first 
war  saw  a  slight  curtailment  of  their  privileges;  and  in  1876,  on  the 
conclusion  of  the  second  war,  the  victorious  Alfonso  XII.  abrogated 
almost  the  whole  of  the  fu^ros,  introducing  the  salt  and  tobacco 
monopolies  into  the  provinces  and  forcing  them  to  submit  to  the 
hated  Quinta,  or  compulsory  military  service.   The  Basque  soldiers, 

t  It  is  said  that  a  strong  man  will  often  use  two  of  these  at  once, 
one  in  each  hand  ('Spain',  by  Rev.  Wenticorih  Webster). 


OLD  AND  NE.W  CASTILE.  5 

wearing  blue  blouses  and  red  trousers  and  caps,  still  form  but  a 
small  band  and  are  mainly  employed  in  the  service  of  the  custom- 
house or  to  help  the  Spanish  Guardia  Civil  (p.  xxiv)  as  the  country 
constabulary.  In  Guipuzcoa  they  are  named  MiqueUteSy  in  Alava 
and  Yizeaya  AfmoiMS.  The  local  government  has  also  been  as- 
similated to  that  of  the  other  provinces.  The  estates  meet  in  the 
Falacio  dt  la  Diputacidn  Ptovincial  of  the  three  provincial  capitals, 
under  the  presidency  of  a  Qobtmad&r  CivU  appointed  by  the  national 
government;  and  their  decrees  require  confirmation  by  the  Ministry 
of  the  Interior  at  Madrid, 


Old  and  Hew  Castile. 

The  traveller  usually  thiuks  of  Spain  as  a  country  with  a  mild 
climate,  luxuriant  vegetation,  a  lively  population,  and  ample  relics 
of  Moorish  architecture.  This  conception,  however,  is  realised  only 
in  the  S.  and  £.  portions  of  the  peninsula  and  in  the  exceptionally 
formed  valley  of  the  £bro,  and  even  there  only  in  part.  Almost 
the  whole  of  the  interior  of  Spain,  amounting  to  at  least  three 
fourths  of  the  peninsula,  is  a  bleak  and  often  arid  land,  with  few 
traces  of  picturesqueness  or  beauty.  The  central  district  embracing 
Estremadura  and  the  old  kingdoms  of  Leon  and  the  Castiles  forms, 
in  particular,  a  plateau  with  an  average  elevation  of  2500  ft.,  which 
resembles  N.  Africa  or  the  steppes  of  Russia.  Alexander  von  Hum- 
boldt compared  Spain  with  the  tableland  of  Mexico.  In  each  case 
the  higher  Tierra  Fria,  or  inner  plateau,  is  surrounded  by  a  lower 
and  flatter  coast -district,  the  Titrra  CcUiente;  in  both  countries 
mountain-ranges  or  isolated  peaks  rise  above  the  central  plateau, 
while  deep  gorges  lead  down  from  it  to  the  coast  The  whole  of  the 
interior  plateau  of  Spain  may  be  thought  of  as  a  large  tart  or  pie 
with  a  raised  and  jagged  edge,  or  as  a  conglomeration  of  several 
such  tarts.  The  kingdoms  of  Leon  and  Old  Castile  form  one  of  these 
tarts,  its  raised  edge  on  the  N.  being  formed  by  the  Cantabrian  Mts., 
on  the  Si.  by  the  Guadarrama  Mts.,  the  Sierra  de  Gredos,  and  the 
Sierra  de  G^a ;  another,  to  the  S.  of  these  mountains,  consists  of 
New  Castile  and  Estremadura,  bounded  on  the  S.  by  the  Sierra 
Morena.  In  their  natural  boundaries  Old  Castile  and  Leon  correspond 
to  a  former  vast  fresh-water  lake,  now  constituting  the  district  drained 
by  the  Douro  (Du^ro).  New  Castile  and  Estremadura  correspond  to  a 
similar  lake  between  the  Sierras  de  Gredos  and  Guadarrama  on  the 
N.  and  the  Sierra  Morena  on  the  S.,  and  now  drained  by  the  Tagus 
(Tajo)  and  the  Guadiana ;  or,  rather,  to  two  lakes  within  these  limits, 
separated  from  each  other  by  the  Montes  de  Toledo  and  the  Sierra  de 
Ouadalupe.  It  is,  indeed,  patent  even  to  the  untrained  eye  that 
these  plateaux  of  Central  Spain  occupy  the  beds  of  former  lakes. 


6  OLD  AND  NEW  CASTILE. 

Near  the  mountains  the  ground  often  swells  into  new  hilly  plateaux, 
the  so-called  ParameraSj  notorious  for  the  rawness  of  their  cli- 
mate, almost  uninhabited,  and  strewn  with  erratic  Mocks  deposited 
by  the  ancient  glaciers.  The  traveller  who  expected  to  feast  his 
eyes  on  groves  of  oranges  and  olives  gazes  with  astonishment  at 
these  interminable  Tierras  de  CampOy  with  their  com  fields  and 
scanty  vineyards ;  he  may  journey  for  hours  without  seeing  a  tree 
except  a  few  meagre  black  poplars  in  the  valley  of  some  dried-up 
brook. 

With  few  exceptions,  Central  Spain  possesses  no  forests,  and 
isolated  trees  grow  only  where  they  can  be  artificially  watered.  The 
Castilian  peasant  is  an  enemy  of  trees  because  they  give  shelter  to 
the  small  birds  that  eat  his  grain.  No  tree  shades  his  house,  which 
is  built  of  unbaked  bricks  (ad^ba)  and  shares  the  dusty  hue  of  the 
ground  on  which  it  stands.  The  towns  situated  on  the  sun-burnt 
hills  of  New  Castile  look  like  stony  growths  from  the  arid  soil. 
The  whole  scene  is  reduced  to  a  weird  and  gloomy  tone  of  brownish 
gray.  In  La  Mancha  (p.  276)  there  are  extensive  districts  wbere 
nothing  exists  that  can  properly  be  termed  a  tree,  and  thousands 
of  the  natives  live  and  die  without  ever  seeing  a  tree.  According  to 
the  native  proverb,  the  lark  has  to  bring  his  provisions  vdth  him 
when  he  visits  such  treeless  and  sparsely  peopled  districts  as  those 
which  formed  the  scene  of  the  adventures  of  Cervantes'  famous  hero, 
the  Ingenioso  Hidalgo  de  la  Mancha. 

Large  tracts  of  these  tablelands ,  the  so-called  Detpohladoi  and 
Dehesas,  are  actually  deserts ,  and  nearly  the  whole  of  them  would 
be  so  were  it  not  for  the  system  of  Irbigation.  It  was  from  the 
Moors  that  the  Spaniards  learned  how  to  convert  this  dura  teUus 
of  the  Romans  into  a  fertile  landscape  by  the  help  of  artificial 
watering.  The  Moorish  works  still  subsist,  to  excite  the  astonishment 
and  admiration  of  the  traveller.  In  the  more  favoured  districts  the 
scanty  rainfall  percolates  at  once  through  the  surface  layers  of  the 
ground,  but  is  prevented  from  sinking  deeply  by  a  subsoil  of  tena- 
cious loam.  The  water  thus  arrested  moistens  the  superincnmb- 
ent  soil  by  a  constant  process  of  evaporation,  and  renders  possible 
the  growth  of  abundant  harvests.  Among  the  districts  of  this  kind 
are  the  large  grain-growing  plains  of  Palencia,  ValladoUd,  and 
Zamora  in  Leon,  and  the  Mesa  (table)  de  Oeana  in  New  Castile. 
The  ground  here  always  seems  to  be  dry,  but  the  crops  of  wheat, 
rye,  and  saffron  draw  sufficient  moisture  from  the  subsoil  and  pro- 
duce abundant  fruit.  The  seed  is  sown  in  parallel  furrows  in  order 
to  leave  room  for  the  destruction  of  the  weeds  in  spring.  These 
Tierras  de  Campo  y  SeeanoSj  which  have  so'little  value  on  the  coasts 
of  Valencia  and  Alicante,  are  therefore  rightly  regarded  in  Castile 
as  Tierras  de  gran  Uevar,  or  tracts  of  great  returns.  In  other 
districts  the  chief  crop  is  the  GarhtmtOj  or  chick-pea,  which  Lin- 
naeus named  eicer  arietinum  on  account  of  its  resemblance^to  the 


OLD  AND  NEW  CASTILE.  7 

head  of  a  ram.    This  forms  the  main  ingredient  of  the  ptieheto,  the 
present  representative  of  the  well-known  oUa  podrida. 

When  the  ground  is  unable  to  bear  any  farther  crop,  it  is  used 
as  pasture  for  sheep,  large  flocks  of  which  migrate  in  summer  from 
Estremaduia  (p.  iii)  to  the  uplands  of  Castile.  In  the  few  forests 
swine  are  fed  on  the  acorns,  and  their  sugar-cured  hams,  though 
far  inferior  to  those  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  Galicla,  enjoy  a  con- 
siderable reputation  among  the  Castilians. 

The  methods  and  implements  of  Castilian  agriculture  recall  those 
of  classical  antiquity  and  of  the  East.  The  peasant-farmer  (labrador) 
turns  up  the  soil  with  the  Alamo  negro ^  a  rough,  home-made  wooden 
plough ,  and  leaves  the  lion's  share  of  the  work  to  the  Sol  eriadoTf 
or  'fertilizing  sun';  in  his  threshing-floor  he  separates  his  grain  with 
a  simple  roller  (trUla)  or  treads  it  out  by  the  feet  of  oxen.  Strongly 
opposed  to  all  Innovations,  he  sits  on  his  clod,  wrapped  in  his  tra- 
ditional dignity  (grandeza)  and  deeming  no  man  his  superior  save 
the  king ;  his  frank  independence  knows  no  limit,  but  his  hospitality 
is  great  and  his  word  is  as  good  as  his  bond.  If  one  diverges  a 
little  from  the  beaten  track  it  is  still  easy  to  And  such  characters  as 
Bojas  has  described  in  his  'Del  Key  abajo  Ninguno'  ('Garcfa  del 
CastaSiar*),  Moreto  in  his  'Yaliente  Justiciero^  or  (best  of  all)  Clcil- 
deron  in  tiie  'Alcalde  de  Zaiamtfa*.  It  was  peasants  such  as  these 
and  the  shepherds  of  Estremadura  that  produced  the  ConquUtadores^ 
who  conquered  powerful  kingdoms  with  a  handful  of  men;  they 
were  the  raw  material  of  the  soldiers  who  terrorized  Europe  in  the 
middle  ages  and  beat  back  the  French  invasion  in  more  recent  times. 
For  the  Spaniard  is  always  ready  to  cultivate  and  to  defend  his 
native  soil ;  aratro  H  ente,  to-day  with  the  plough,  to-morrow  with 
the  sword. 

The  extension  of  the  railway-system  has,  of  course,  made  great 
changes  here  as  elsewhere.  In  former  times  the  peasant  of  Castile 
and  Estremadura  could  not  dispose  of  his  grain,  as  there  were  practic- 
ally no  means  of  transport;  now  he  began  to  export  it  to  Portugal 
and  other  foreign  lands.  In  1873  Spain  exported  about  1^0  miUion 
quarters  of  wheat,  while  importing  only  about  44,000  quarters. 
The  appearance  of  the  phyldxera  in  FrandB  opened  out  a  new  market 
for  Spanish  agriculture.  The  farmer,  who  used  often  to  let  his 
wine  run  o£F  on  the  ground  for  lack  of  casks  and  purchasers,  now 
converted  a  great  part  of  his  corn-fields  into  vineyards,  and  in  1891 
supplied  France  with  'vino  comun'  to  the  value  of  248  million  francs 
(9,920,000^.).  This  outlet  has,  however,  been  seriously  hampered 
by  the  recent  protective  policy  of  France  and  by  the  increase  of 
wine-growing  in  Algeria,  so  that  the  value  of  the  export  of  Spanish 
vino  comun  in  1894  was  only  60  million  francs ,  of  which  about 
two-thirds  went  to  France.  The  farmer  has  therefore  had  to  turn 
his  attention  once  more  to  the  comparatively  neglected  cultivation  f 
cweals  (export  in  1894  only  200,000  qrs.,  import  268  miUion  qiE 


8  OLD  AND  NEW  CASTILE. 

The  History  of  the  kingdoms  of  Leon  and  Caetile  is  .substan- 
tially that  of  Spain.  These  lands  always  formed  the  *rob,ur  Hispa- 
niae',  or,  as  theCastilians  themselves  termed  it,  ^elcorazon  y  caatillo':, 
Hhe  heart  and  stronghold',  of  the  peninsula.  After  PelayQ,  had  suc- 
ceeded in  maintaining  Astnrias  against  the  Moors,  the  conquest  of  the 
S.  part  of  the  central  plateau  was  only  a  question  of  time.  Ledn,  so 
named  after  the  Seventh  Roman  Legion ,  a^opg  with  the  important 
mountain-town  of  Zamora,  was  the  fljrst  part  to  fall  into  the  hands 
of  the  Christians,  and  afterwards  continued  to  subsist  as  an  inde- 
pendent Reino  alongside  the  niore  powerful  kingdom  of  Oastile,  of 
which  Burgos  was  the  focus.  The  second  great  stroke  was  the  capture 
of  Toledo  (p.  126),  which  led  to  the  formation  of  a  New  Castile,  and  the 
battle  of  Las  Navas  de  Toloia  (p.  302).  The  conquest  of  the  penin- 
sula was  not ,  however ,  completed  until  the  two  gceat  kingdoms  of 
Castile  and  Aragon  were  united,  through  the  marriage  of  Ferdinand 
and  Isabella,  under  the  sceptre  of  these  'Catholic  Kings'. 

The  name  of  Castile  is  derived  from  the  numerous  castles  (caatU- 
lo8)  erected  as  defences  against  the  Moors.  The  castle  of  Qormax^ 
on  the  Douro,  is  a  good  example  of  these  fortresses,  while  the  walls 
of  Avila  (p.  48),  with  their  semicircular  towers  (cubes) ,  afford  a 
clear  idea  of  the  town-fortifications  of  the  times.  The  character  and 
history  of  Castile  are  incarnated  in  the  Cid  (p.  26),  the  , great 
champion  of  the  Christians  against  the  Moors,  and  in  Philip  11,^ 
one  of  the  most  national  of  Spanish  rulers.  It  is  no  mere  accident 
that  the  Escorial  (p.  108)  of  the  latter  stands  on  the  dividing  line 
between  the  two  Castiles.  After  the  expulsion  of  the  Moors ,  the 
defeat  of  the  Comuneros  (p.  63),  and  the  abrogation  of  the  Aragon- 
ese  fu^ros  (p.  162),  the  chivalry  of  Old  Castile  was  succeeded  by 
the  religious  and  political  unity  of  which  the  capital  of  Madrid ,  in 
the  heart  of  New  Castile,  was  the  outward  expression  as  the  'corte' 
of  the  new  absolute  monarchy. 


1.  From  (Hendoye)  Inin  vitl  Zumarraga,  Miranda  de 

Ebroy  Bnrgos,  and  Valladolid  to  Medina  del  Campo 

(Lisbon^  Madrid), 

269  M.  Railway  (Caminot  de  Hierro  del  Norte)  in  llV2-19V4brs.  (fares 
49  p.  70,  87  p.  30,  22  p.  40  c.).  There  arc  one  express  train  (two  in  mid- 
summer) and  two  ordinary  trains  daily.  To  (3^  M.)  Madrid  the  express 
takes  178/4  hrs.,  the  ordinary  trains  23-27V2  brs.  (fares  72  p.  60,  54  p.  46, 
32  p.  70  c).  A  ^ Train  de  Luxe"  (Sur  £xpreso),  consisting  of  first-class 
carriages  at  one-and-a-half  the  ordinary  fares,  runs  from  (Paris)  Iran  to 
Hadrid  (comp.  p.  45)  on  Tues.  and  Sat.  (in  the  reverse  direction  on  Thurs. 
and  Sun.),  taking  151/2  brs.  (to  Medina  lOi/s  hrs.)-  A  similar  train  runs 
from  (Paris)  Irun  to  Lisbon  (comp.  p.  464)  on  Thurs.  and  Sun.  (returning 
from  Lisboii  on  Wed.  and  Sat.),  taking  27^4  hrs.  The  additional  fare  for 
a  sleeping  berth  on  the  ordinary  express  from  Irun  to  Madrid  is  23  p. 
Carriages  are  changed  and  the  custom-house  examination  takes  place  at 
^ritn  on  the  journey  to  Madrid  and  at  Eendaye  on  the  journey  to  Paris. 
^  stations  have  good  restaurants  and  ^bureaux  de  change'.  The  only  halt 


.  IRl-N.  7.  RouU,    9 

for  meals  between  Inm  and  Medina  is  made  at  Mircmda.  —  For  the  Spanish 
railways,  railway-time,  and  railway-restaurants,  see  pp.  xv,  xvi.  One  of 
the  time-tables  there  mentioned  should  be  obtained  as  soon  as  possible. 

Hendaja  (*Qrand  Hdtelde  France;  *Bailway  Restaurant)^  Span. 
Endaya^the  last  French  station,  lies  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Bidassoa^ 
whkh  here  expands  and  forms  a  kind  of  bay  (ria).  As  we  start,  we 
see  to  the  right,  beyond  theBidassoa,  Fuenterrabid  (see  below)  and 
Cape  Higuir;  in  front  is  the  plain  of  Irun^  with  the  lofty  Pena  de 
Aya  (p.  10).  To  the  left,  in  the  river,  lies  the  neutral  Isle  of  Pheaa- 
antSj  also  called  the  lie  de  Conference  since  the  meeting  of  Cardinal 
Mazarin  and  Count  de  Haro,  the  plenipotentiary  of  Philip  IV.  (1659). 
Farther  on,  to  the  S.E.,  is  the  Ermita  de  San  Marcial  (see  below). 

We  cross  the  river  by  the  Bidassoa  Bridge^  145yds.  in  length,  the 
middle  of  which  marks  the  frontier  of  Spain,  where  we  enter  the 
province  of  Guipuzcoa. 

IY4M.  IrUB.  —  Hotels  (comp.  p.  xx).  Fonda  dk  Vabconia^  EohxK' 
|QU£^  Sait  Joan;  Istueta.  —  Railway  Restaurant. 

Tramwat  into  the  town  10  c,  each  article  of  luggage  10  c. 

Jrfm^  a  charmingly  situated  and  comparatively  modern  town, 
with  5200inhab.,  alTords  opportunity  for  many  attractive  excursions. 
The  church  of  Nuestra  Senora  de  Juncal^  an  unadorned  Renaissance 
edifice  with  a  nave  140  ft.  long  and  92  ft.  wide,  contains  an  over- 
decorated  reredos  (retahlo)  and  several  tombs,  among  them  that  of 
Admiral  Pedro  di  Zubiaur.  In  the  picturesque  Plaza  Mayor  or  Pla%a 
de  la  ConatiiuciSny  as  the  principal  square  in  almost  every  Spanish 
town  is  now  named  in  memory  of  the  outcome  of  the  long  revolu- 
tionary struggle,  stands  the  Casa  Consistorialj  or  town-hall,  erected 
in  the  17th  century.  A  fine  view  is  obtained  from  the  Ermita  de  San 
Marcial,  near  the  town. 

Those  who  wish  to  add  a  glimpse  of  the  departed  glories  of  heroic 
Spain  to  their  enjo3a&ent  of  the  green  and  smiling  landscape  should  not 
omit  to  visit  FaeBtcnrakia  (3X. ;  tramway  from  Irun  station  in  15min.,  fare 
26  c.).  The  little  frontier-town  (900  inhab.),  though  repeatedly  besieged, 
bombarded,  and  taken  by  storm,  still  preserves  its  quaint  mediaeval  char- 
acter. The  Principal  Churchy  Gothic  in  style,  has  had  its  exterior  modern- 
ized. The  CastiUo,  overlooking  the  Bidassoa,  was  erected  by  Sancho 
Abarca^  King  of  Kavarre,  in  Wt\  the  more  modern  portion,  abutting  on 
the  plaza,  is  known  as  the  Palacio  de  Juana  la  Loca  (p.  63).  The  palace 
of  Count  Torrealta  and  some  others  are  also  interesting.  Tbe  Archive  del 
Municipio  contains  valuable  documents.  Fuenterrabia  is  nearly  40  M.  from 
BoBcesvalles  (p.  165),  so  that  there  is  some  poetic  exaggeration  in  Scotfs 
'a  blast  of  that  dread  horn,  on  Fontarabian  echoes  borne\  Milton  also  alludes 
to  Fontarabia  (Paradise  Lost^  I.  587).  —  To  the  N.  of  Fuenterrabia  lie  tbe 
fishing-village  of  La  Madrina  and  the  Cabo  de  Bigudr  (French  Figuier)^ 
the  latter  commanding  an  extensive  view  of  the  coast.  —  It  was  nearly 
opposite  Fuenterrabia  that  the  Duke  of  Wellington  effected  the  passage 
of  the  Bidassoa  (Oct.  8th,  1813)  in  the  face  of  the  French  under  Soult,  who 
occupied  a  strongly  fortified  position  on  the  right  bank. 

A  plea«ant  walk  may  be  taken  from  Fuenterrabia  to  the  N.W.  to  the 
Ermita  de  Quadalupe,  with  the  Fuerte  de  Quadalupe  (no  sketching  allowed ; 
fine  view),  and  thence  along  the  bare  sandstone  ridge  of  the  Jaizquivil 
(2230  ft.),  surmounted  by  the  dilapidated  Fuerte  Enrique,  with  constant 
views  of  the  Gantabrian  Hts.  to  the  left  and  the  ocean  to  the  right,  to 
(3-4Jhrs.)  Pasajes  (p.  10),  which  lies  far  below. 


10    Route!,  SAN  SEBASTIAN.  iromlrvn 

The  Pefla  de  Aya  (French  Les  TroU  Courormet;  3246  ft.).  a  conifipicnoafl 
and  nigged  mass  of  granite,  upheaved  throagh  the  surrounding  calcareoas 
slate,  rises  to  the  8.  of  Irun,  whence  it  may  be  ascended  in  ^4hrs.  Rid- 
ing is  practicable  as  far  as  the  (S^^hrs.)  mountain-pasture  known  as  the 
Pradera  de  Lai$cmgu.  The  ♦View,  deservedly  celebrated,  embraces  the 
Gantabrian  Mts.  of  Navarre  on  the  £.  and  S.,  the  valleys  of  Irun  and  Oyar- 
zun,  San  Sebastian,  the  ocean,  and  the  French  coast  as  far  as  Biarritz. 

Beyond  Iran  the  train  runs  to  the  S.W.,  skirting  (right)  the  bleak 
Jaizquivil  (p.  9)  and  traversing  a  picturesque  hilly  district  with 
frait- trees  and  caserfos  (p.  4).  The  pass  of  Oainchuriaqueta  is 
penetrated  by  a  tunnel,  ly^  M.  Lezo  -  Benterfa  ^  the  station  for 
Lezo,  with  a  wonder-working  image  of  the  Saviour,  and  for  Renieria 
(p.  13),  on  the  Oyarzun,   Numerous  factories  are  now  passed. 

The  train  crosses  the  Oyarzun  by  a  narrow  girder-bridge  (where 
heads  should  not  be  protruded  from  the  windows),  passes  by  a 
tunnel  through  a  peninsula,  with  the  lead-foundry  of  Capuchinos, 
and  reaches  the  beautiful  and  almost  land-locked  ^'BtLj  of  Patajes, 
which  resembles  an  Alpine  lake.  In  the  16-18th  cent,  this  was 
the  starting-point  of  the  hardy  Basque  whalers,  and  Lafayette  took 
ship  here  for  America  in  1776.  The  fishing-village  of  (9V2  M.) 
Pasajes^  at  the  mouth  of  the  Oyarzun  (see  above),  is  divided  into  San 
Juarij  on  the  right  bank,  and  San  Pedro  and  Ancho,  on  the  left,  the 
last  containing  the  railway-station,  the  custom-house,  and  large 
warehouses  for  wine.  To  the  S.  are  the  forts  of  San  Marcos  and 
Choritoqueta.  —  Pasajes  is  most  conveniently  visited  by  the  tramway 
from  San  Sebastian;  a  boat  may  be  taken  to  the  Fuerte  de  Santa 
Isabelj  on  the  E.  side  of  the  narrow  entrance  to  the  harbour. 

Route  along  the  Jaizquivil  to  Fuenterrahia^  see  p.  9. 

The  train  runs  along  an  embankment  skirting  the  W.  arm  of  the 
bay  and  intersects  several  hills.  To  the  left  is  Alza;  to  the  right 
rises  the  Monte  VUa,  at  the  foot  of  which,  on  the  bay  of  Zurriolay 
lies  the  Barrio  de  Oros,  the  E.  suburb  of  (12  M.)  San  StboBtidfi. 


San  SebaBtiin.  —  Railway  Stations.  1.  Eitaddn  del  Nwrte  (PI.  6,  3 ; 
restaurant),  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Urum^a,  72  M.  from  the  t.own,  for 
the  trains  of  the  Northern  Railway.  —  2.  Eitaddn  de  Zctrauz,  in  the  Barrio 
de  Amara,  for  the  local  line  to  Zarauz  (p.  13).  —  At  the  first  of  these 
the  traveller  will  find  the  omnibus  general  (p.  xvi),  the  hotel-omnibuses 
(fare  in  each  50  c.,  baggage  under  25  lbs.  25  c.,  trunk  50  c.),  cabs,  and 
tramways. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xx ;  generally  crowded  in  summer  and  prices  raised). 
*CoNTiNENTAL  (PI.  a*,  F,  3),  Pasco  de  la  Concha  beautifully  situated,  with 
lift;  *HoTEL  DE  LoNDRES  (PI.  b;  F,  3),  Avcuida  de  la  Libertad,  with 
electric  light,  baths,  and  garden,  but  no  view  of  the  sea;  'Ingles  (PI.  c; 
F,  3),  Paseo  de  la  Concha,  with  fine  view,  closed  in  winter;  these  three 
of  the  first  class,  pension  10-20  p.  —  Fonda  Ezodbba  (PI.  d ;  G,  2),  prettily 
situated  in  the  Paseo  de  la  Zumola,  Spanish,  pens.  10  p.  •,  Hot.  de  Fkakcb 
(PI.  e ;  G,  2),  Calle  de  Caminos  2,  well  spoken  of;  Central,  Calle  Mayor  1, 
pens.  10  p.,  well  spoken  of;  Hot.  Bebdejo  (PI.  f ;  G,  3),  Calle  de  Guetaria  7, 
commercial.  —  Private  Apartment*  about  1000 -3^300  p.  for  the  season. 

Sestaurants  (comp.  p.  xxi).  Mallorquina^  Plaza  Guiptizcoa,  cor.  of  the 
Calle  Churruca ;  Urbana^  Plain  Guipuzcoal5;  Oriental^  Plaza  Vieja;  S%m>- 
mer  Restaurant  at  the  Rompeolas  (p.  12). 


io  Medina  d,  C.        SAN  SEBASTIAN.  K  Route.     1 1 

Oaf^s  (oomp.  p.  xxil).  Caf4  Suito  f  de  ta  Marina^  in  tbe  Alameda  ^ 
Oteizoy  by  ibe  AJderdi-eder  P»rk^  Oriental^  see  p.  10;  Europa^  opposite 
the  Casino.  —  Beer  Garden :  Gerveceria  Alemma^  in  the  suburb  of  Gros  \ 
Cerweeeria  de  Strcubyrgo^  in  the  suburb  of  Antigua,  at  the  tramway  terminus. 

Oab  per  drive  2,  per  hr.  8p.)  outside  tbe  town  5  p.  for  tbe  1st  hr., 
3>/s  p.  for  each  addiiional  hour. 

uectrie  Tramway*.  1.  From  the  Plata  Vieja  (PI.  F,  2)  tu  Peuajet  (40  c.) 
and  RenieHa  (eOe.)<  with  a  braneh-line  to  the  E$taei6n  d€l  Norte  (1&  c).  — 
2.  From  the  FUua  VUJu  to  Antlguo  (PI.  G,  4;  20  e.). 

Post  OfBca  iCorrtOy  PI.  F,  3;  comn.  p.  xviii),  in  the  Palaeio  de  la  Di* 
putacidn.  —  TeUfrapb  Offtca  (PI.  F,  3),  Calle  de  Fnenterrabia  24. 

Ooneertt.  Bands  play  in  the  Alameda  at  noon  on  Sundays  and  holidays 
in  winter,  and  at  noon  and  9  p.  m.  during  the  season;  on  the  Casino 
Terrace  at  noon,  6  p.m.,  and  9  p.  m.  in  the  season,  AAer  the  evening 
coneert  there  is  a  ball  in  the  Casino  (adm.  3  p.). 

Clabt.  Oram  Catino  Xa$onen»e^  in  the  Casino,  1st  floor ;  Club  Cantahrieo^ 
aboTe  tbe  Cafd  Oteisa  (see  aboTe). 

Thoatre  (comp.  p.  xxvi).  Teatro  FiHmeipml  (PI.  F,  2).  Calle  Mayor. 

Ball  Oamaa  (Jtieaos  de  Rfhta;  comp.  p.  xxix).  Jai-Alai^  in  the  Camino 
de  Pasajes,  to  tbe  E.  of  the  Gerveceria  Alemana  (see  above),  with  room 
for  2000  spectators;  Bcff-/«f,  in  the  Barrio  de  Salamanca. 

Bull  ng bta  (comp.  p.  xxvi)  four  times  in  August  in  the  Plata  de  Tor^e 
(PI.  G,  8),  opposite  the  £staci6n  del  Norte. 

Batba  in  the  Catino,  in  the  Perla  del  Oeeano  (PI.  E,  F,  3),  and  at  the 
Plueaderia  (PI.  F,  2).  --  Boa  Baths  at  the  Pfapa  de  Baflot  (P\.  E,  F,  3\ 
25  c.  with  towBls  fiO  c.)  and  tbe  Pla^  da  Anligw  (P).  B,  G,  3,  4). 

Pbysieiana.  Dr.  Vich,  French,  Hdt.  de  Londres ;  Dr.  Ucelaifeta^  Plaza  de 
Guipuzcoa  15;  Dr.  ZargiUta^  Calle  Reina  Regente  8;  Dr.  Morair^  Avenida  12. 
--  Gbeiniata.  Carrion,  Calle  Hemani ;  Tomero,  Plaza  de  Ouipuxcoa. 

ODMoUt«i.  British  Vice -Consul,  MeUor  Nutty  Calle  Ouetaria  8.  — 
U.  8.  Consular  Agent,  Julian  de  Salazary  Calle  de  Fuenterrabia  3. 

Bookaallora.    Praneiteo  Jomei,  Alameda  15;  R.  Nereean^  Elcano  7. 

Banka.  Branch  of  the  Bemeo  de  BtpeMa.,  Calle  Garibay ;  Joei  Brunei  A  Co., 
Avenida  de  la  Libertad  20.  —  Hoaoy  Obancan.  Caratco,  Alaaaeda,  next 
door  io  tbe  Casino;  Landaberea  y  Eckeverria^  Alameda  21. 

Ban  Sebaatidn,  tbe  ancient  Basque  Hizurun  or  Ea$o  (?)  and  now 
tbe  flourishing  capital  of  Guipuzcoa,  is  tbe  most  fashionable  seaside 
resort  in  S^aln  and  one  of  the  most  beautifully  situated  watering 
plaees  In  £iiiope.  It  is  the  flummer-tesidence  of  the  Queen-Regent 
Maria  Christina  and  of  the  young  King  Alfonso  XIII.  Pop.,  Incl.  the 
soharbs,  '90,000. 

Tbe  old  town,  reduced  to  ashes  in  1813  and  since  then  almost 
wholly  rebuilt,  lies  at  the  S.  base  of  the  Monte  VrguUj  a  rocky  is- 
land now  connected  with  the  mainland,  between  the  mouth  of  the 
Vrumia  on  the  £.  and  the  hay  of  La  Concha  on  the  W.  The  new 
town,  which  we  reach  from  the  Estacion  del  Norte  (PI.  G,  3)  by 
crossing  the  Puente  de  Santa  Catalina  (PI.  G,  2),  arose  after  the 
removal  of  tbe  city-walls  in  1866  and  occupies  the  flat  sandy  penin- 
sula between  Mte.  Urgull  and  the  mainland.  The  old  town  is  closely 
built  and  densely  populated ;  the  new  town  is  marked  by  its  wide 
streets  and  handsoihe  promenades. 

On  the  E.,  below  the  Urumtfa  bridge,  the  town  is  bounded  by 
the  *Pai60  de  la  Zurriola  (PI.  G,  2),  a  spacious  quay,  aflfording 
beaatiftal  views.  In  the  middle  of  the  quay,  surrounded  by  flower 
beds,  ie  the  *  Monument  of  Antonio  de  OquendOj  the  Basque  com- 


12    Route  1.  SAN  SEBASTIAN.  From  Irun 

mander  of  the  Spanish  fleet  in  the  wars  with  the  Netherlands  in  1631 
and  1639.  The  monument,  designed  hy  Marcial  de  Aguirre,  con- 
sists of  a  bronze  statue,  on  a  pedestal  adorned  with  trophies,  reliefs, 
and  allegorical  figures  of  oourage  and  seamanship.  At  the  N.  end  of 
the  quay,  adjoining  the  Mte.  Urgull,  are  the  Rompeolas  (restaurant, 
see  p.  10),  washed  continually  by  the  surf  of  the  Bay  of  Biscay. 

The  Old  Town  contains  few  objects  of  interest.  In  its  centre 
■lies  the  Plata  de  la  Con8tituci6n  (PI.  F,  2),  surrounded  by  arcades 
and  formerly  the  scene  of  the  bull  -  fights.  It  contains  the  Casa 
Consistorialj  built  In  1828.  To  the  £.,  near  the  Pas^o  de  la  Zur- 
riola,  are  the  Mereado  de  la  Brecha  (PI.  E,  2 ;  meat  and  vegetable 
market),  the  Pescaderia  (PI.  F,  2;  fish-market),  and  the  church  of 
SanVieenU  (PI.  F,  1),  a  Gothic  building  of  1507,  with  a  curious  W. 
porch  and  tower,  massive  buttresses,  and  some  excellent  statues  by 
Ambrosio  de  Bengoechea  (p.  Ivili).  Thence  we  proceed  to  the  S.W., 
through  the  Calle  del  Treintaiuno  de  Agosto,  to  the  church  of  Santa 
Marid  {PL  E,  2),  a  handsome  baroque  structure  (1743-64). 

The  focus  of  the  New  Town  is  the  beautiful  ♦Plaza  de  Gui- 
p6zcoa  (PL  F,  2),  with  its  luxuriant  vegetation.  On  its  S.W.  side 
rises  the  stately  Palacio  de  la  Dipiitaoi6n,  with  the  finely  equipped 
rooms  of  the  Provincial  Diet  and  various  provincial  authorities 
(adm.  on  application  to  one  of  the  miqtbeletes  or  policemen;  fee 
V2-I  p.).  On  the  staircase  is  a  fine  stained-glass  window,  designed 
by  Eckena  and  made  at  Munich,  representing  King  Alfonso  VIII. 
confirming  the  fu^ros  of  Quipuzcoa  in  1202. 

The  town  is  traversed  in  its  whole  breadth  by  two  wide  streets 
shaded  with  trees :  the  Avenida  de  la  Libertad  (PI.  F,  G,  3,  2)  and 
the  *  Alameda  or  BovXevard  (PI.  F,  2),  the  latter  occupying  the  site 
of  the  former  town -walls.  The  Avenida  leads  straight  from  the 
Urumea  bridge  to  the  *Coneha,  a  noble  bay  bounded  by  the  Mte. 
Urgull  on  the  N.E.  and  the  Mte,  Igueldo  on  the  W.,  while  the  small 
island  of  Sar^ta  Clara  shelters  its  outlet  on  the  N.W.  Its  beach  is 
excellently  adapted  for  bathing  and  is  crowded  in  the  season  with 
thousands  of  bathers.  Some  of  the  largest  hotels  face  the  bay 
(comp.  p.  10),  and  at  Antiguo  (tramway,  see  p.  11)  is  the  un- 
pretending Palacio  Real  (PI.  C,  4),  built  in  1889-92  for  the  royal 
family  on  the  site  of  the  Convento  del  Antiguo,  which  was  burned  in 
the  first  Carlist  war.  In  the  Avenida  (No.  40)  is  the  American 
International  School  for  Girls  (Inatituto  Intemaiionaljy  which  has 
done  much  for  the  higher  education  of  women  in  Spain.  —  At  the 
W.  end  of  the  Alameda  rises  the  imposing  Casino  (PL  F,  2),  built 
by  Luis  Aladren  and  connected  with  the  Paseo  de  la  Concha  by  the 
grounds  of  the  Parque  de  Alderdieder  (PL  F,  2,  3).  —  To  the  N.W. 
of  the  Casino  are  the  Aquarium  (adm.  50  c.)  and  the  small  Harbour 
(Puerto;  PL  E,  2). 

The  Monte  Urgull  (380  ft.),  a  mass  of  sandstone  rock  present- 
ing an  abrupt  face  on  every  side,  may  be  ascended  in  about  ^^  hr. 


io  Medina  d,  C.  tOLOSA.  >.  itoute.     1 3 

(Tiewfl).  Easy  footpaths,  reacbed  by  the  steps  on  the  W.  side  of 
the  ehnrch  of  Santa  Maria  (p.  12),  wind  up  the  hill  in  wide  curves. 
On  the  N.  side,  halfway  up,  are  the  graves  of  the  British  officers 
who  fell  here  in  1813  and  1836.  The  summit  of  the  hill  is  crowned 
by  the  CasUUo  de  la  MotOy  which  was  occupied  by  the  French  under 
General  Bey  in  the  Spanish  War  of  Liberation  in  1813  and  not 
surrendered  till  the  town  had  been  captured  and  burned  down 
(Aug.  Slst)  by  the  British,  Spanish,  and  Portuguese  troops  under 
Graham.  The  excesses  of  the  victorious  soldiery  on  this  occasion 
form  a  lasting  disgrace  to  the  British  army.  In  1835-36  the  town 
and  fortress  were  beleaguered  by  the  Garlist  forces  and  heroically 
defended  by  the  citizens  with  the  aid  of  some  British  auxiliaries.  — 
Other  interesting  excursions  may  be  made  by  boat  to  the  island  of 
Santa  Clara  (PI.  0, 2),  with  its  small  lighthouse  and  restaurant ;  by 
Toad  to  the  Mte,  Jgueldo  (785  ft.),  with  the  old  lighthouse  and  an 
extensive  view ;  and  by  railway  or  tramway  to  the  Bay  of  Pcuajes 
(p.  10)  and  BenitrCd  (p.  10). 

Fkom  8ah  Sbbastiam  to  Zasaoz,  16  M.,  braneh-railway  in  i-ii/4  hr. 
(farea  8  p.,  2  p.,  1  p.  20  c.).  —  Zanns  (Grand  Hotel)  is  a  picturesquely 
jitnated  iMthiBg-plaee  with  a- sandy  heaeh.  DiUgences  run  bence  to  the 
W.  to  Deva  (p.  20;  railwav  In  progress)  and  to  the  S.W.  to  Aspeitia  ilrm^ 
plain),  a  small  town  of  2500  inhab.,  lying  on  the  (/rola,  amid  hilla,  with 
remains  of  ancient  walls  and  gates  and  interesting  churches.  A  little  to 
tbe  W.,  on  the  road  to  Atc6Uia^  is  the  imposing  convent  of  Son  lomeio  de 
lopdla,  with  its  lofty  domed  church,  erected  by  Fontana  in  1683  et  seq. 
on  the  site  of  the  house  in  which  Loyola  (IfUffO  Lopez  de  Heealde;  1491-1556), 
founder  of  the  Society  of  Jesus  (IMO),  was  born.  From  Aspeitia  diligences 
ply  to  the  £.  to  Toloea  (see  below)  and  to  the  S.  to  Zvmdrraga  (p.  14). 


The  Railway  to  MsDUfA  del  Camfo  turns  to  the  S.  at  San 
Sebastian  and  ascends  the  pretty  and  industrious  valley  of  the 
Vrumea.  We  cross  the  river,  thread  a  tunnel,  and  reach  (16  M.) 
HenLani,  a  small  town  situated  high  above  the  right  banlL  of  the 
Urumea,  with  several  sombre  old  palaces  and  a  large  Churchy  cel- 
ebrated for  its  wood  carvings.  Hernanl  was  the  birthplace  of  Juan 
de  Ufhieta,  who  took  Francis  I.  prisoner  at  the  battle  of  Pavia  (1525). 
Above  the  town  rises  the  old  Fort  Santa  Bdrbara,  bombarded  in 
vain  by  the  Carlists  in  1874.  —  The  train  now  quits  the  valley  of 
the  Urumea  and  ascends  steadily  to  the  S.W. ,  passing  under  the 
hill  of  Burunza  by  a  tunnel.  2O72  M.  Station  for  the  high-lying 
Andoafn.  Beyond  another  tunnel  the  train  crosses  the  Leizaran, 
descending  from  the  left,  and  enters  the  fertile  and  well-peopled 
▼alley  of  the  Oria,  which  it  ascends  as  far  as  Ormaiztegui  (p.  14). 
23  M.  ViUabona-azuriUil. 

271/2  M.  Toloia  (260  ft. ;  Fonda  Mendia'),  the  ancient  Iturissay 
prettily  situated  in  the  green  valley  of  the  Oria,  which  here  receives 
the  Aspiroz.  It  contains  5100  inhab.  and  was  formerly  the  capital 
of  Guip6zcoa.  The  chief  points  of  interest  are  the  tasteful  church 
of  Sanla  Maria,  with  a  colossal  figure  of  John  the  Baptist  on  its 
facade  and  a  handsome  modern  marble  altar  in  its  interior;    the 


14    Soutel.  ZUMARRAGA.  From  Inm 

PtUacio  Jdiaque%^  on  the  road  to  Navarre ;  and  the  handsome  avenues 
on  the  Oria  and  the  Berdstegm,  the  latter  known  as  the  PaUo  dt 
Jgarondo.  Most  of  the  numerous  manufactories  are  engaged  in  mak-*- 
ing  paper  (^papd  eofUinud'). 

DiLiGBMCBS  run  from  Tolosa  to  the  W.  to  AzpeiUa  (p.  13)  and  to  the 
S.E.,  vi&  Betelu^  with  celebrated  mineral  springs,  lo  Imrzuny  a  station  on 
the  railway  from  Alsa<ma  to  Pampeluna  (p.  175). 

The  train  penetrates  the  foot-hills  of  the  mountains  to  the  S.  by 
several  tunnels  and  crosses  the  Oria  fifteen  times.  Numerous  well- 
to-do  villages  and  manufactories  are  passed.  To  the  left  rise  the 
conical  peak  of  Ardlar  (4835  ft.)  and  the  serrated  ridge  of  Ataun. 
Beyond  (33  M.)  Legorreta  and  (35V2M.)  ViUafranca  we  reach  (38 M.) 
Beasafn  (520  ft.). 

From  Beasain  two  direct  Roads  (10-12  H.)i  one  through  the  valley  of 
the  8egwa  and  the  other  via  Cef/ama^  ascend  to  the  Pwrto  <fe  Idiambul 
(2160  ft.),  to  the  E.  of  the  mountain-pass  of  Otzaurte  (see  below),  which  the 
railway  reaches  by  a  long  detour.  In  making  this  attractive  excursion,  we 
may  either  return  to  Beasain  by  the  alternative  road  or  descend  on  the 
other  side  to  AUdtua  (see  below).  The  church  of  Cegama  contains  the  tomb 
of  the  celebrated  Carllst  leader  Tonuu  ZwndUtedrrtgvi^  who  was  bora  at 
Ormaiztegui  in  1788  and  fell  before  Bilbao  in  1834. 

The  train  continues  to  follow  the  Oria,  skirting  the  barren  lime- 
stone heights  of  the  Sierra  de  8an  Adria/n,  to  (41  M.)  Ormaiztegui^ 
the  frequented  Sulphur  Botha  of  which  lie  to  the  left,  adjoining  the 
Viaduct  (330  yds,  long,  116  ft,  high)  over  the  valley.  It  then  turns 
nearly  to  the  N.W.,  ascends  along  the  Areria,  penetrates  the  Monte 
de  Eizaga  by  a  tunnel,  and  enters  the  valley  of  the  Uroto. 

47  M.  Zum&rraga  (1170  ft. ;  Hotel  Ugalde,  Fonda  del  ParaisOy 
both  by  the  rail,  station),  picturesquely  situated  at  the  foot  of  the 
Castillo  de  Ipenarrieta,  built  in  1605  on  the  Irimo  (2930  ft.),  is  the 
junction  of  the  railway  to  Bilbao  and  Miranda  de  Ebro  (R.  2 ;  car- 
riages changed)  and  the  starting-point  of  diligences  to  i4«pcitia,  Lo- 
yola, and  Zarauz  (p.  13 ;  twice  daily).  It  is  the  birthplace  of  Miguel 
L6pe%  de  Legazpi,  the  conqueror  of  the  Philippines  in  1571,  to  whom 
the  province  has  erected  a  bronze  statue  designed  by  Marinas  (1897). 

At  Zumarraga  the  line  turns  abruptly  to  the  S.  and  ascends  the 
valley  of  Legazpia^  which  is  watered  by  the  Urola.  At  (52^/2  M.) 
Brincola  (1660  ft.)  it  penetrates  the  E.  wall  of  the  valley  by  the 
Tunnel  of  Oazurza,  which  is  3230  yds.  long.  On  emerging  from  this 
tunnel  we  find  ourselves  on  the  W.  slope  of  the  parallel  valley  of  Ce- 
gama (see  above),  which  we  ascend  through  12  other  tunnels,  reach- 
ing the  culminating  point  of  the  line  (2015  ft.)  in  the  middle  of 
the  tunnel  beyond  (59  M.)  Otzaurte  (1998  ft.).  We  eiyoy  a  series 
of  fine  views  of  the  fertile  valley  to  the  left,  and  of  the  limestone 
heights  of  the  Sierra  de  San  Adrian  to  the  right,  including  the 
Aitzgorri  (ca.  5250  ft.),  crowned  by  the  Ermita  di  S,in  Adrian,  and 
the  savage  Monte  Arax  (3773  ft.). 

The  train  now  descends  through  brushwood,  leaving  the  Puerto 
de  Idiazabal  (s^e  above)  to  the  left  and  skirting  the  base  of  the  hills 


to  Medina  d  O.  YITORIA.  J.  fioute.     1 5 

of  AlMonia,  to  (66  M.)  Aliif ma  (1740  ft. ;  RaU.  Betiaurant),  a  vil- 
lage  of  Navarre  with  1800  inhab.,  prettily  situated  in  the  valley  of 
tha  AraquU.  The  scenery  here  it  of  an  Alpine  character.  To  the 
N.  rises  the  Sierra  di  Aselar  (4825  ft.),  to  the  S.  the  Sierra  dt  Andia 
(4900  ft.);  farther  off,  to  the  £.,  are  the  Pyrenees. 

From  AlMaoa  to  Pampelumt  and  Cattejon  (Saragoua)^  see  p.  175. 

The  Madrid  railway  now  turns  to  the  W. ,  passes  (66Vs^0 
OUttogutiay  and  ascends  through  the  wide  valley  of  Borunda  to  the 
plateau  of  Alava,  which  forms  the  oonnecting  link  between  the 
Pyrenees  and  the  central  tableland  of  Spain.  Navarre  is  quitted  at 
Ciorda,  We  crosa  the  watershed  almost  imperceptibly  and  reach  the 
valley  of  the  Zadorra^  which  carries  its  waters  to  the  £bro.  The 
scenery  is  very  desolate.  To  the  N.W.  we  see  the  MU.  AroM  (p.  14); 
farther  on  the  Puerto  de  Arlaban  (p.  16)  comes  into  sight,  and  the 
serrated  ridges  of  the  Peha  Ooryea  (p.  25)  and  the  Pena  de  Ambotu, 
which  separate  the  plateau  of  Alava  from  the  deeply  indented  val- 
leys of  Tizeaya.  —  72V2  H.  Araya,  at  the  foot  of  Mte.  Araz;  77  M. 
Salvatierra.  Tunnel.  To  the  left  is  the  Ermita  de  Eitivare%i  to  the 
right  are  the  ruins  of  the  castle  of  Guevara,  built  in  the  15th  cent, 
in  imitation  of  the  Castle  of  S.  Angelo  at  Rome. 

At  (83  M.)  Alegr<d  the  train  reaches  the  fertile  Concha  de  Alavaj 
watered  by  the  Zadorra  and  several  other  rivers.  This  was  formerly 
the  bed  of  a  lake  and  is  now  a  wide  upland  plain,  bordered  by 
distant  mountains.  It  contains  many  thriving  villages. 

92  M.  Vitoria.  "  HoteU  (comp.  p.  xx).  Fohda  dk  Quintanilla, 
Calle  de  la  Eateddn,  V«  ^'  f'om  the  vail.  8t«iioii,  good  cuisine,  pens. 
^Vs-d  p. ;  FoHOA  PiXLABBS,  CftUe  de  Postas,  cor.  of  the  Plasa  de  la  Inde- 
pendencia,  with  a  small  garden  and  baths;  Fonda  de  PkSa,  adjoining 
the  last,  unpretending. 

Oafea.     UtUverml^  Strigc^  both  in  the  Calle  de  la  E8taci6n. 

Post  ft  Telegraph  Of&cei  Plata  de  la  Independencia.  —  Bull  King 
(Plaza  de  Torot),  in  the  S.E.  part  of  the  new  town. 

Vitoria  (1730  ft.),  capital  of  the  province  of  Al&va,  lies  in  the 
centre  of  the  Concha  de  Alava.  Pop.  24,600.  It  was  founded  in 
581  by  Leovigild,  King  of  the  Visigoths,  after  a  victory  over  the 
Basques,  and  was  taken  in  1198  by  Alfonso  VIII.  of  Castile. 

The  Calle  de  la  Estaci^n  leads  to  the  N.  from  the  railway-station 
to  the  Nbw  Towv,  with  its  wide  thoroughfares  and  spacious  squares. 
From  the  end  of  this  street  the  Calle  de  Postas  leads  to  the  right  to 
the  Plaza  de  Bilbao  (p.  16)  and  to  the  Plaza  de  la  Independencia, 
with  its  trees.  By  turning  slightly  to  the  left  at  the  end  of  the 
Calle  de  la  Estacidn,  we  reach  the  Plana  Nveva,  the  market-place 
and  winter-promenade  of  the  town.  It  is  surrounded  with  arcades 
and  was  erected  in  1791  by  Antonio  de  Olagaibel  on  the  model  of 
the  famous  Plaza  Mayor  in  Salamanea.  On  the  N.  side  of  the  plaza 
is  the  Casa  ConsiMtorialj  bearing  the  arms  of  Alava,  a  castle  sup- 
ported by  two  lions,  —  The  Plaza  Nueva  is  adjoined  on  the  W.  by 
the  Plaza  Vieja,  with  the  Gothic  church  of  San  Miguel,  situated 


16    RouU  U  VITORIA.  From  trun 

on  the  slope  of  the  old  town.  The  high-altar,  carved  In  wood,  in  the 
Renaissance  style  of  the  16th  cent.,  by  Juan  Velazquez  and  Qtegono 
Hemandee,  is  deservedly  celebrated  as  a  work  of  art.  On  the  out- 
side  of  the  choir,  down  to  1841 ,  hung  the  well-known  Machete 
Vitoriano  (now  in  the  town-hall),  by  which  the  Civil  Governor  of 
the  Basque  Provinces  took  his  oath  of  office :  'May  my  head  be  cut 
off  with  this  knife,  if  I  do  not  defend  the  fn^ros  of  my  fatherland'. 

Proceeding  to  the  N.W.  from  the  lower  end  of  the  Plaza  Vieja, 
we  soon  reach  the  Plaza  de  la  Provincia ,  adorned  with  a  bronze 
Statue  of  Mateo  BerUno  Mora%a,  the  zealous  upholder  of  the  fu^ros, 
unveiled  in  1896.  The  Palaoio  db  la  Provincia,  built  in  1868, 
contains  a  fine  Oruciflxion  (1643)  by  Ribera  (in  the  hall  of  the  pro- 
vincial diet)  and  paintings  of  SS.  Peter  and  Paul  (1637)  by  the 
same  hand  (in  an  adjoining  room ;  fee  y^i  p.). 

We  now  proceed  by  the  back  of  the  palace  to  the  left,  threugh 
the  Galle  de  Juego  de  Pelota,  to  the  pretty  Pa$eo  de  la  Florfda^  with 
its  well-kept  grounds.  The  PasSo  de  la  Senda^  to  the  S.,  and  the 
Pcueo  del  Ptado,  beyond  the  railway,  call  for  no  remark.  A  little 
to  the  £.  of  the  latter  is  the  Conoefdo  de  las  Scdetcu^  built  in  the 
Gothic  style  in  1880,  with  a  lofty  tower. 

The  Ufpbe  Town,  known  as  La  Villa  Suso  or  El  CampiUo  8u80^ 
situated  on  the  low  ridge  to  the  N.  of  the  new  town,  containa  little 
of  interest  It  is  most  easily  reached  from  the  Plaza  de  Bilbao 
(p.  15).  We  first  reach  the  Villa  Vieja ^  a  girdle  of  six  streets  enclos- 
ing the  Villa  Suso.  At  the  N.  end  of  the  latter  stands  the  Oathe- 
.D&Aii  OF  Santa  Ma&ia,  an  unsightly  Gothic  ediUce,  built  in  the 
12th  cent,  and  restored  in  the  14th,  with  a  modern  tower.  Its  only 
feature  of  interest  is  the  much-damaged  sculptures  of  the  portal. 
The  interior  contains  a  few  sadly  dilapidated  Gothic  tombs.  In  the 
sacristy  is  a  Pieti  ascribed  to  Murillo(?). 

Fbom  Vitobia  to  Vergaba,  railway  under  constraction,  open  as  far 
as  (12  H.)  Salituu  de  Liniz  (in  about  V4  hr.  *,  fares  2  p.  20,  1  p.  66  c,  1  p.). 
—  The  train  passes  (8'/«  M.)  Villarreal  de  Alava,  on  the  road  from  Vitoria 
to  the  baths  of  Santa  Agueda  and  Mondragon^  crosses  the  mountains  a 
little  to  the  W.  of  the  Puetto  de  Arlaban  (1740  ft.),  and  then  descends 
through  the  valley  of  the  Deva  to  (12  H.)  Salinas  de  LSnit.  Diligence  hence 
past  the  baths  of  Arechevaleta  and  Mondragon  to  Vergara^  see  p.  20. 

Our  line  continues  to  run  towards  the  W.,  intersecting  the  cel- 
ebrated Battlefield  of  VUoria, 

The  battle  of  Vitoria  took  place  on  June  21st,  1813.  The  French, 
under  King  Joseph  and  Marshal  Jourdan,  were  stationed  at  Tree  Puentes 
and  Subejana  de  Akma,  to  the  N.  of  Nanelare*  (see  below).  The  British, 
under  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  advanced  through  the  pass  of  Puebla  (see 
below)  and  took,  up  their  position  at  Subejana  de  Morales.  The  engage- 
ment ended  in  the  defeat  of  the  French,  who  retired  to  Vitoria,  from 
which,  however,  they  were  soon  ousted.  Their  loss  amounted  to  6C00 
men  and  120  guns.    This  battle  practically  decided  the  war  in  Spain..    . 

We  now  cross  the  Zadorra  and  reach  (100  M.)  Nanelarea  de  la 
Oca  (1590  ft.),  situated  amid  the  limestone  hills.  To  the  S.  we  see 
Castillo  and  Puebla  de  Arganzon,   two  small   and   ancient  walled 


to  Medina  d.  C.       MIRANDA  D£  EBRO.  /.  Route.     1 7 

towns,  lying  in  a  narrow  defile ,  through  which  the  lake  of  A  lava 
(p.  15)  once  discharged  its  waters.  The  train  sgain  crosses  the 
Zadorra  and  passes  (107  H.)  ManMno$^  the  last  station  in  Alava. 
We  now  enter  the  profince  of  Burgot  and  the  broad  valley  of  the 
Ebro,  here  a  very  insignificant  stream.  The  train  crosses  the  railway 
to  Bilbao  (R.  2)  and  then  the  Banat^  an  affluent  of  the  Ebro. 

113  M.  Xiranda  de  Xbzo  (1470  ft. ;  Fonda  de  Egaiia,  at  the 
rail,  station ;  *RaU.  Restawrani)^  the  junction  of  the  lines  to  Bilbao 
(B.  2)  and  Saragossa  (R.  12).  Carriages  are  changed  for  these  places. 
—  The  town  of  Miranda,  with  4100  inhab.,  old  walls  and  castle, 
and  the  church  of  St.  Nicholas,  lies  to  the  S.,  on  the  Ebro. 

Seats  should  now  be  taken  to  the  right  (as  far  as  Pancorbo).  To 
the  W.  we  see  the  barren  Monte  BiUbio ,  the  last  summit  of  the 
limestone  ridge  of  the  Sierra  de  Tolono,  and  the  Buradon^  which 
belongs  to  the  8i€rra  de  Pancorbo  (MorUee  Obarenes),  The  train 
crosses  the  Ebro,  leaving  the  town  of  Miranda  to  the  left,  and  sweeps 
lound  to  the  £.  It  then  aseends  rapidly  to  the  *  Qa/rganUi  or  Gorge 
of  Paneorho,  formed  by  the  OronciUo  on  its  passage  through  the 
limestone  mountains.  At  the  mouth  of  the  ravine,  to  the  left,  are 
the  ruins  of  the  convent  of  Bugedo.  Beyond  two  tunnels  we  reach 
the  first  expansion  of  the  gorge,  where  we  obtain  fine  views  behind 
us  and  of  the  valley  of  Ameyugo  to  the  W.  We  then  cross  a  bridge 
and  thiead  a  narrow  part  of  the  defile,  flanked  by  jagged  and  precip- 
itous cliffs.  Beyond  two  more  tunnels  the  train  enters  the  second 
expansion  of  the  rarrine  and  stops  at  (124  M.)  Pancorbo  (2073  ft.), 
a  wretched  village,  with  the  ruins  of  two  castles,  SatUa  Maria  and 
Santa  Engraeia.  Fine  retrospect  of  the  serrated  cliffs  of  the  Montes 
Obarenes,  which  extend  towards  the  N.W. 

We  now  reach  the  upland  plains  of  Old  Caetiie,  where  the  eye 
is  wearied  by  the  interminable  expanse  of  corn-fields.  The  train 
ascends  steadily,  at  first  along  the  Oca. 

1381/2  M.  Brivieeea  (2330  ft.),  an  unimporUnt  town  with  3100 
inhabitants.  A  meeting  of  the  Cortes,  held  here  in  1388,  decreed  that 
the  heir-apparent  to  the  throne  of  Castile  should  bear  the  title  Trince 
of  Asturias',  a  style  that  is  still  adhered  to.  The  Capilla  de  8o- 
Vraga,  in  the  Collegiate  Church,  and  the  suppressed  convent  of  Sania 
(^ra  contain  admirably  carved  altars. 

About  15  M .  to  tho  K.  of  Briyiesea  (dnigence)  Hm  OSa,  with  the  cel- 
ebrated Beaedictine  convent  of  8cm  Salvador  (now  suppressed),  founded 
by  C9unt  Sancho  Chorda  in  1011.  It  contains  the  interesting  tombs  of  four 
i^ags.  About  3  H.  farther  on  is  La  Sortutada^  a  Roman  bridge  across 
the  Ebro. 

The  line  continues  to  ascend,  passing  Pr&danos,  Castil  de  Peones, 
&nd  (148  M.)  Santa  Olalla.  It  then  sweeps  round  HedrehUa,  threads 
fourtunnels,  and  reaches  the  bleak  and  stormy  plateau  of  the  Br&jula 
(3160  ft. ;  highest  point,  to  the  W.,  3266  ft,),  forming  the  watershed 
between  the  Ebro  and  the  Douro.  We  then  descend  along  the  small 
yega  to  (157  V2  M.)  QuintanapaUa.     In  the  little  church  of  the 

Babdskkb''8  Spain.  2 


18     Route  1.  VENTA  DE  BANGS. 

village,  wbich  lies  about  1  M.  from  tbe  station,  Gbarleell.  of  Spain 
was  married  in  1682  to  Marie  Louise,  eldest  daugbter  of  tb^  Duke 
of  Orleans,  brotber  of  Louis  XIV.  —  As  we  approach  Burgos  tbe 
country  becomes  fiat  and  dreary.  To  tbe  rigbt  appear  tbe  castle  and 
catbedral  of  Burgos,  to  tbe  left  tbe  Cartuja  de  Miraflores ;  in  tbe 
extreme  distance  is  tbe  Sierra  de  la  Demanda  (p.  178).  Finally  we 
cross  tbe  ArlansSn  and  skirt  tbe  Quinta  Promenade  (p.  33). 

1^  M.  Burgos,  see  p.  25. 

Beyond  Burgos  we  see  tbe  convent  of  Las  Huelgas  (p.  84)  to 
tbe  rigbt.  Tbe  line  follows  the  Arlanz6n  as  far  as  Torquemada  (see 
below).  Fartber  on,  to  tbe  left,  are  tbe  beigbts  of  the  Sierra  de 
Cov(trr<ibia8.  174  M.  QuintanUUja;  180  M.  EstSpar;  186 1/2  M. 
VUlaquirdn;  193 1/2  M.  VillodrigOj  tbe  first  station  in  tbe  province 
ofPaleneia,  once  part  of  tbe  kingdom  of  Leon.  We  cross  tbe  Arlanz6n 
at  its  confluence  with  tbe  Arlanza,  which  descends  from  the  Sierra 
de  la  Demanda  (to  tbe  E.).  200  M.  Quhttana  ('del  Puente*). 

207  M.  Torquemaday  situated  a  little  below  the  point  where  the 
Arlanz6n  joins  tbe  PUuerga,  which  flows  from  N.  to  S.  We  soon 
cross  the  latter  river.   214^/2  M.  Magat,  with  a  ruined  castle. 

220  M.  Venta  de  Bafios  (*not.  Viuda  de  Barbotan^  opposite  the 
rail,  station,  R.  2V2»  D.  3p.;  Rail.  Restaurant),  the  junction  of  tbe 
railways  to  Santander  (R.  5),  Asturias,  and  Galicia  (R.  51).  Near 
Venta  are  the  Bonos  de  OeratOj  the  medicinal  spring  of  which  cured 
Recceswind,  King  of  tbe  Visigoths,  of  the  stone.  The  small  basilica 
of  San  Juan  Bautista  was  erected  by  the  grateful  monarch  in  661. 

Tbe  train  crosses  tbe  Carrion  and  follows  first  the  right  bank  of 
the  Pisuerga  and  then  tbe  Canal  &f  Castile  (p.  36) ,  which  runs 
parallel  with  the  river  through  the  corn-growing  Tierra  de  Compos. 
To  the  left  lies  Tariego.  with  its  cave-dwellings ;  to  the  right  is  the 
convent  of  San  Isidro  de  Duerkts.  At  (223  M.)  Duerias  Isabella  the 
Catholic  met  Ferdinand  of  Aragon  before  their  marriage.  —  The 
train  now  enters  the  province  of  Valladolidj  also  belonging  to  the  old 
kingdom  of  Leon.  233  M,  Corcos-AguUarejo ;  23572  M.  Cahetdnj 
now  entirely  bereft  of  its  quondam  importance.  The  train  crosses 
the  Pisuerga  by  a  nine-arched  bridge,  and  then  the  Esgueva. 

243  M.  Yalladolid,  see  p.  86. 

From  Valladolid  to  Asiza,  169  M.,  railway  (one  through-train  daily) 
in  91/4  hrs.  (fares  29  p.  45,  22  p.  10,  14  p.  75  c).  The  most  important 
intermediate  stations  are:  ISVs  H.  Tudela  de  Duero;  37 Vs  M.  POkifiel;  62  M. 
Aranda  de  Buero,  a  picturesque  old  town  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Dowro^ 
with  d(X)0 inhabitants.  —  126y2M.  Almaz&n,  a  high-lying  town  of  2G00  inhab., 
commanding  a  fine  mountain-view,  with  remains  of  the  old  walls  and 
gates  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1810,  and  a  famous  bridge  over  the 
Donro,  180  yda.  long  and  having  thirteen  arches.  Almaz^n  is  the  Junction 
of  the  railway  from  Alcnneza  to  Soria  (p.  166).  —  159  M.  Ariza^  a  station 
on  the  railway  from  Madrid  to  Saragossa  (p.  156). 

A  branch-line  (2&Vs  M.,  in  2  hrs.)  runs  from  Valladolid  to  the  small 
town  of  Medina  de  Rioieeo. 

The  train  now  enters  a  monotonous  and  almost  treeless  plain, 
crosses  the  Douro  a  little  above  Puente  de  Dueroy  and  then  the  Cega^ 


VEROARA.  2.  Route.     19 

an  affluent  from  the  8.,  at  (T^i  M.)  Viana  de  Cega,  Beyond  (254  IVT.) 
VMtstttUu  we  cross  the  Adaja  (p.  461.  268Vs  M.  Mnfoposweof. 
At  (263*/2  M.)  PotAldet  the  country  again  becomes  more  fertile. 

269  M.  Hedlna  del  Campo  (2370  ft. ;  Fonda  del  Norte,  Fonda 
del  Comereio,  both  Indifferent;  Rail,  Restaurant,  tolerable),  an 
Important  railway  centre,  being  the  J\inct!on  (carriages  changed)  for 
the  lines  to  Salamanca  and  Portugal  (R.  50),  to  Madrid  viftATllaCR.  6), 
to  Hadrld  vti  SegOTia  (R.  T),  and  to  Zamora  (see  below).  The  town, 
an  old  place  with  520b  inhab.,  is  pictaresquely  situated  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Zapardiel.  The  collegiate  church  of  San  Antolin,  built 
in  the  Gothic  style  in  1509 ,  contains  soTeral  good  retablos  and  a 
banner  of  the  kings  of  Gastlle.  The  Ca9tillo  de  la  Mota,  now  partly 
in  ruins,  was  erected  by  Fernando  de  Garrefio  in  1440  and  was  a 
favourite  resort  of  Isabella  the  Catholic,  who  died  here  in  1504. 

Fbom  Hkdina  obl  Caiipo  to  Zamora  I  56  M.,  railway  in  3>/«-5  hrti. 
(fares  10  p.  36,  7  p.  80,  6  p.  20  c).  The  ohief  intermediate  stations  are 
Jfavo  del  Rey,  Castro  Ifuflo  (where  the  Douro  is  crnsfled),  and  Toro.  -^ 
Zamorm^  aee  p.  iT3. 

Conihmaltian  of  the  Jowmey  vi&  AvUa  or  Segovia  to  Madrid^  see 
pp.  45-60. 

2.  From  Znmirraga  to  Bilbao  and  Kranda  do  Ebro. 

Fkom  Zdmabbaoa  to  Bilbao,  52  M.,  narrow-gauge  railway  In  3-4*/4  hrs. 
(fares  9  p...  6 p.  45 e.,  4  p.).  This  Is  a  very  picturesque  trip:  best  views, 
as  far  aa  Kilsaga,  to  the  left.  FIvst-elaas  paasengevs  are  advised  to  use 
the  Coeke-Buff^  or  diniag-ear,  for  which  an  extra  charge  of  3  p.  is  made; 
the  food  is  simple  and  not  dear.  The  station  in  Zumirraga  is  opposite 
that  of  the  'Northern  Railway.  In  Bilbao  the  trains  arrive  at  the  Achuri 
station,  whence  a  tramway  runs  to  the  town. 

Fkom  Bjolbao  to  Miramda  db  Bbeo,  64  M.,  railway  in  8i/r4  hrs.  (fares 
12 p.,  9  p.,  6  p.  40  e.).  Best  views  to  the  left.  Departure  from  the  Estacidn 
del  Norte. 

ZumSnraga,  see  p.  14.  —  The  train  for  Bilbao  follows  the 
Northern  Railway  for  a  short  distance  through  the  wide  valley  of 
the  Vrola^  then  aicends  to  the  W.  through  a  narrow  lateral  valley 
on  the  slope  of  Monte  Irimo  (p.  14),  which  divides  the  valley  of 
the  tJrola  from  that  of  the  Ani%iu6la.  Near  the  Fuerto  de  De$carga 
we  penetrate  the  crest  of  the  mountains  by  a  long  tunnel.  The  line, 
oommanding  many  line  views  of  the  lower  part  of  the  Anzuola  valley, 
rans  along  the  N.  slope,  high  above  the  river.  Crossing  several  side 
valleys  and  threading  five  tunnels ,  it  then  descends  to  (6  M.)  An^ 
ttiola.  —  Beyond  this  point  the  railway  affords  a  good  idea  of  the 
character  of  the  Basque  provinces,  as  described  at  p.  2.  To  the  right 
Slid  left  rise  lofty  hills,  covered  with  chestnuts,  oaks,  and  ferns ;  the 
bottom  of  the  beautiful  valley  Is  a  mass  of  fruit-trees.  Three  tun- 
nels. Yergara  appears  below  us  to  the  left.  The  train  reaches  it  by 
another  tunnel  and  a  sharp  curve. 

10  H.  Tergarat  a  town  of  8200  inhab.,  is  finely  situated  among 
lofty  mountains,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Anzuola  with  the  Deva.  The 
Corwenio  d/f  Yergara  coD^luded  in  1839  between  the  Garlist  general 

2* 


20     Route  2.  DURANGO.  From  Zumdrraga 

Maroto  and  the  Spanish  general  Esparteroy  stipulated  that  the  Basqaes 
should  lay  down  their  arms  and  so  put  an  end  to  the  first  Oarlist 
war.  The  church  of  San  Pedro  contains  an  admirable  statue  of 
Christ  by  MofUan£$  (p.  lix).  In  the  once  famous  Semmcario,  founded 
in  1776 ,  is  a  statue  of  St.  Ignatius  by  Gregorio  Hernandez.  —  A 
diligence  runs  from  Yergara  to  SdliruLS  de  Liniz,  whence  there  is  a 
railway  to  Vitoria  (see  p.  16). 

The  line,  sweeping  to  the  right,  crosses  a  side-valley  by  an  em- 
bankment and  then  descends  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Peva,  between 
low  hills,  to  (14^2  M.)  Plaeeneia.  TunneL  On  the  high  mountain 
slopes  are  artificial  terraces  with  groves  of  chestnuts  and  fields  of 
com.  We  cross  the  Deva  and  ascend  to  the  W.,  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  Ermuay  to  (I6V2  M.)  Mdlzaga. 

From  Hilsaga  a  narrow-gaoge  railway  (*/«  hr.  \  fares  2  p.  10,  1  p.  60  c, 
1  p.)  rans  to  (10>/s  M.)  Deva  (*Hdt.  Deoa),  a  sea-bathing  resort,  with  a  small 
harbour,  prettily  situated  at  the  base  of  the  Mante  Andut.  From  Deva  vis 
Zarauz  (to  which  the  railway  Is  to  be  prolonged)  to  San  Sebastian^  tee  p.  13. 

18  M.  Eibar^  with  manufactories  of  small-arms.  Beyond  (20t/9M.) 
Ermua ,  the  first  station  in  Vizeaya  (p.  21) ,  we  ascend  through  a 
narrow,  richly- wooded  glen,  one  of  the  finest  points  on  the  line. 
Long  tunnel.  We  then  descend  on  the  S.W.  slope  of  the  mountains, 
through  fields  of  com,  to  (24 Vs  M.)  Zaldfvar,  with  sulphur-lrathfl, 
on  the  Azubia,  —  26 1/2  M.  Olacueta. 

30  M.  Burango  (Hot.  de  Olmedal),  a  town  of  3200  inhab. ,  pret- 
tily situated  on  the  DurangOy  below  the  mouth  of  the  Azubia ,  in  a 
wide  upland  valley  enclosed  by  lofty  mountains.  It  carries  on  some 
manufactures  and  contains  one  of  the  oldest  churches  (8€ai  Pedro  de 
Tavira)  in  the  Basque  provinces. 

The  train  now  backs  out  of  the  station  and  descends  to  the  N.W. 
through  the  fertile  and  well-wooded  valley  of  the  Durango.  34  M. 
Euba.  —  37  M.  Amordbieta,  also  the  station  for  Zomoza, 

Fbom  Amorkbieta  to  Pedesnales,  iSi/s  H.,  narrow-gauge  railway  in 
1  hr.  (fares  2  p.  90,  1  p.  86,  1  p.  30  c).  —  Vh  M.  ZugagHeta;  V/t  M.  Mu- 
friea*  —  91/9  M.  Chianiica  (Fonda  at  the  raiL  station),  a  small  town  of 
2200  inhab.,  splendidly  situated  on  the  Munddea^  was  the  seat  of  Uie  diet 
of  Vizeaya  until  the  aholition  of  the  fu^rot  (p.  4).  The  deputies  met 
every  two  years  in  front  of  the  Ccua  de  JunUu ,  under  an  oak-tree  which 
is  celebrated  in  the  national  anthem  of  the  Basques.  —  Beyond  Ouerniea 
the  line  descends  through  the  i>retty  valley  of  the  Mundaca,  passing  sev- 
eral small  stations.  To  the  right  is  a  small  ch&teau  of  the  Empress 
Eugenie.  —  151/2  M.  Pedemalet.  A  diligence,  connecting  with  the  trains, 
runs  hence  via  (7  H.)  Mtmdaea^  a  fishing-village  on  a  bay  at  the  mouth 
of-  the  river,  to  (9  M.)  Bermeo,  the  most  important  fishing-station  in  Viz- 
eaya (6000  inhab.),  with  a  new  Insane  Asylum  for  the  Basque  provinces. 
The  bay  (playa)  commands  a  noble  prospect  of  the  sea  and  coast,  extend- 
ing to  the  Cabo  ifocMcAoco,  with  its  lighthouse,  on  the  N.W.,  and  to  the 
hills  of  San  Sebastian  (p.  13)  on  the  S.E. 

The  railway  to  Bilbao  follows  the  valley  of  the  Durango.  40  M. 
Lemona ;  461/2  M.  ZuazOy  with  a  dynamite  factory.  —  We  now  enter 
the  fruitful,  wine-producing  valley  of  the  Nervion,  —  47^/2  M.  Ariz- 
Do8-Camino9  (p.  24).  —  52  M.  Bilbao. 


to  Minmda  de  Ebro.        BILBAO.  2.  RtmU.    21 

Bmmo.  —  XiOlwiqr  ttetiMs.  l.  EttacUin  d»l  Norit  (PI.  0,  4),  for  ih^ 
lime  to  Mirttd*  de  Bb>0{  3.  M$iiuidm  d»  A»rtaifaMf  (PI.  C,  4),  by  the  prin- 
cipal bridge,  both  ia  the  Kew  Town.  —  3.  Estaetin  d«  Ban  Agutti^  (PI. 
E,  3),  behind  the  town-hall,  for  Las  Arenas  and  Plencia;  4.  Bstaeidn  dk 
Uzdma  (PI.  D,  5);  6.  EttaeUn  d«  Achuri  (PI.  B,  G,  6),  for  the  line  to  Du- 
rftBgo  «od  Zviiidrragft.    These  three  in  the  Old  Town. 

HoteU  (eomp.  p.  xz^  no  omnibuses).  *HoTn  Tbbmimus  (PI.  m\  C,  4), 
Calle  de  la  Estaei6n  3  (in  the  New  Town),  a  house  of  the  first  class,  with 
electric  light,  steam  heat,  lift,  and  covered  passage  to  the  Bstacidn  del 
Norte,  pens,  from  10  p.  —  Hot.  d*Amoletebbb  (PI.  c  i  D,  4),  Boul.  Arenal, 
eatr.  at  CaUe  de  Correo  25  ^  Hot.  Amtohia  (PI.  d;  G,  4),  Calie  de  Bide- 
barrieta  14,  cor.  of  the  Boul.  Arenal,  unpretending)  Hot.  Gatalima  (PI.  e; 
D,  5),  Galle  de  Ascao  %  unpretending.   These  three  are  in  the  Old  Town. 

Xestoanuita  (eomp.  p.  xxi).  ^AnUigw,  Calle  de  Bidebarrieta  7 }  Pirudema^ 


■f; 


Calle  de  la  Libortad  i;  Campos  M  Olimpo  (p.  23). 

Oafto  (eomp.  p.  xxii).  Cqfi  Buixo^  on  the  ground  floor  of  the  Hdt. 
Inglaterra  and  in  Uie  Plasa  Nueva;  *Bolsa^  Boul.  Arenal*,  Arriaga^  in  the 
theatre.    Bagliah  ale  and  Bavarian  beer  at  all. 

Oaba  with  one  horse,  for  1-2  pers.,  >/«  P*  V^  drive,  2  p.  per  hr.,  each 
addit.  pers.  >/i  p.  more;  with  two  horses,  1-2  pers.  li/t  and  2Vs  Pm  8-^  P^'^* 
2  and  3  p.    BtMid  on  the  Arenal,  in  front  of  the  theatre^  supply  limited. 

Xramwaja.  1.  From  the  £*lad&»  de  Acfmri  (PI.  B,  G,  6)  by  the  Arenal 
(PI.  D,  4)  to  the  Mereado  del  Ewcmche  (PI.  G,  2).  2.  From  the  Flatn  Yieja 
(PI.  C,  6)  to  TivolL  3.  From  the  Plata  Yieja  to  ZvbdUmru.  —  Blectrio 
Tramwaya  from  the  Arenal  (PI.  D,  4)  to  Algeria^  vi&  Deusto,  Luchana,  De- 
sierto,  and  Las  Arenas,  and  to  amturee  ▼!&  Olaveaga,  Luchana,  Desierto, 
Sestao,  and  Portngalete. 

Staamera.  1.  To  Ca$lro  and  Qijon  (agent,  Bufino  de  Urdburu,  Colon 
de  Larreat^ui).  —  2.  CoaUimg  Steamers  of  the  Ibarra  Co.  (agent,  Berge  St  Co., 
Graa  Via  6)  eomp.  the  *Gnia  para  los  vii^eros%  mentioned  at  p.  xv). 

Theatre  (PI.  C,  4),  in  the  Arenal.  —  Oireua,  Calle  Harqu^s  del  Puerto. 
-~  Ball  Biag  (JPtaxa  de  foros),  outside  the  New  Town.  —  Ball  Game 
iPidota ;  eomp.  p.  xxix) :  Eront&n  EvskaUkma.  Calle  de  Hnrtado  de  Am^saga ; 
Aval^  de  Abaado^  FrmU&ik  de  Deusto^  in  tne  suburbs  of  those  names.  — 
Band  in  the  Arenal  every  summer-evening  at  .7.90 j  in  winter  on  Sun.  and 
festivals  at  midday. 

Phyaiciaaa.  Dr.  Campbett,  Desierto,  Erandia;  Dr.  Sierra.,  Galle  de  la 
Esperanaa  2.  —  Bniggista.  Bengoa^  Calle  de  la  Estacidn  12  \  fimdo,  Calle 
de  la  Craz  10.  —  Batha.    El  ifervion,  Calle  Nueva  (with  medicinal  baths). 

Baaka.  Bmitco  de  EspcMa.,  Calle  del  Banco  de  Espana-,  Banco  de  Bil- 
bao, Plaauela  de  San  Nicolas  \  C.  Jaeqvet^  Calle  del  Correo  82. 

Bookaallera.  Bulfy^Co..^  Calle  Banco  de  EspaSa  3;  DeJmasy  Calle  del 
Correo  24.  —  Photegrapha :  Landdburu  ffermaaos,  Galle  de  la  Cruz  11. 

Boat  Oface  (Correo;  PI.  C,  3),  Calle  Ayala,  near  the  Estaci6n  del  Norte. 
—  Telegraph  Ottee,  Plaza  Nueva  16  (PI.  D,  5). 

Britiah  Ooaaul,  C.  B.  Smith,  Galle  de  Hurtado  de  Am^aga  22.  —  V.  8.  A. 
Ooaavlar  Agent,  B^dneif  /.  />y«r,  Calle  del  Baaeo  de  Bilbao.  —  English 
Ckureh  Service  at  Portngalete  (p.  24)  ^  chaplain,  Bev.  Arthur  Burrtell. 

Chief  Attractiona  (one  day):  Arenal;  Paseo  de  Volcmtin;  Church  of 
Begofta;   excursion  to  Portugaiete  and  L<u  Arenas. 

BUbao  (20  ft.  above  sea-ievel),  Basque  Ibaizahal,  the  capital  of 
the  province  of  Vizeaya  and  ranking  with  Santander  as  one  of  th6 
most  important  commercial  towns  on  the  N.  coast,  lies  finely  on  the 
Nervton,  amid  partly  wooded  hills ,  about  8  M.  from  the  sea.  Pop. 
66,000.  The  town ,  which  was  founded  by  Diego  Lopez  de  Haro, 
Lord  of  Biscay,  about  1300,  was  repeatedly  hesieged  by  theCarlists 
in  the  wars  of  1833-36  and  1873,  but  was  never  captured.  The  Old 
Toum,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Nervlon,  has  narrow  streets  and  is 
dosely  packed  between  the  river  and  the  hills.   The  New  Town,  on 


22    JUmU  ^i  BILBAO*  Miom  ZmnAiwgm 

tlie  roomier  left  bank,  has  flprung  up  since  the  last  Carlist  war,  but 
it  is  already  much  larger  tban  the  old  town  and  is  steadily  attracting 
more  and  more  of  tbe  trade.  It  includes  an  English  colony  of  con- 
siderable size.  The  river  is  crossed  by  three  stone  bridges  and  two 
iron  ones.  Though  insignificant  in  itself,  it  has  been  so  much  im- 
proved by  a  process  of  canalization  that  ships  of  4000  tons  burden 
can  enter  it  at  high  tide,  while  its  dangerous  inundations  are  a  thing 
of  the  past.  A  large  outer  harbour,  formed  by  two  breakwaters, 
one  on  the  W.  near  Santurce,  the  other  on  the  E.  near  Algorta, 
is  in  course  of  construction.  Bilbao  owes  its  prosperity  mainly  to 
the  extensive  deposits  of  iron  ore  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Nervion. 
These  have  been  known  since  hoar  antiquity,  but  were  not  system- 
atically exploited  tiU  the  last  20  or  30  years.  In  1882-96  about 
55  million  tons  were  exported,  chiefly  to  Great  Britain  and  in  Brit- 
ish ships. 

In  the  middle  ages  Bilbao  was  so  celebrated  for  its  iron  and  steel 
manufactures,  that  the  Elizabethan  writers  use  the  term  UVbo  for  rapier 
and  bilbof  for  fetters.  Thus  Falataff  ('Merry  Wives  of  Windsor',  III.  5) 
describes  his  condition  in  the  buck-basket  as  ^compassed,  like  a  good 
Bilbo,  in  the  circumference  of  a  peck,  hilt  to  point,  heel  to  head\ 

The  most  frequented  part  of  the  old  town  and  the  focus  of  the 
life  of  the  entire  city  is  the  shady  Arbnal  (PI.  C,  D,  4),  which  con- 
tains several  hotels,  the  chief  caf^s,  the  Teatro  IfuevOy  built  by 
Joaquin  Bucoba,  and  the  church  of  San  Nicold$^  dating  originally 
from  the  15th  cent,  but  entirely  remodelled  in  1743-56.  Adjoining 
the  theatre  is  the  small  Plaza  de  Arriaga  (PI.  C,  4). 

From  the  Calle  de  los  Fueros,  to  the  S.E.  of  the  Arenal,  we  pass 
to  the  right  into  the  large  Plaza  Nubva  (PI.  D,  5),  a  square  in  the 
style  of  the  Plaza  Mayor  in  Salamanca  (p.  465),  surrounded  by  lofty 
buildings  and  by  arcades  which  are  used  as  winter-promenades.  — 
From  the  S.E.  angle  of  the  Plaza  Nueva  the  short  Calle  de  la  Libertad 
leads  to  a  small  plaza  with  the  high-lying  station  of  the  railway  to 
Lezama.  Here,  too,  is  the  Institato  (PI.  D,  5),  built  about  1844, 
with  a  Library  on  the  groundfloor  and  a  small  Cotteetion  of  Natural 
History  on  the  first  floor.  The  steps  on  the  N.E.  side  of  the  plaza 
lead  to  the  Roman  Catholic  Cemetery  and  to  Begona  (p.  23). 

The  Calle  de  la  Cruz  leads  hence  in  the  opposite  direction,  pass- 
ing (left)  the  church  of  Los  Santos  Juanes,  to  the  church  of  San- 
tiago (PI.  C,  5),  a  Gothic  structure  of  the  14th  cent.,  with  a  modern 
facade  and  tower.  At  the  back  is  a  large  hall  with  pillars.  —  The 
Calle  Teuderia,  continuing  the  Calle  de  la  Cruz,  leads  to  the  PjiAsja 
Vibja  (pi.  C,  5),  the  market-place  of  the  old  town.  On  the  E.  side 
of  this,  on  the  site  of  the  Alcazar  destroyed  in  1366,  is  the  church 
of  San  Antonio  Abad^  a  Gothic  building  of  the  15th  cent. ,  partly 
modernized  in  the  interior.  Just  above  this  point  is  the  Puente  de 
Achuri ,  erected  in  1878  near  the  site  of  the  famous  old  bridge  of 
St.  Antony ,  which  was  taken  down  the  previous  year.  —  To  the 
3.E.  is  the  Achuri  Station  (p.  21). 


to  Minmda  dc  Ebro.  BILBAO.  ?.  RouU,    23 

The  new  pleasure-gromids  below  the  Pastfo  del  Arentl  aie  more 
attractive  than  the  parts  of  the  city  already  mentioned.  A  short  dis- 
tance to  the  N.  stands  the  Palaeio  de  Aynatomiento  (PL  B,  3), 
or  town-hall,  a  handsome  baroque  edifice  by  Joaqufn  BiAcoba^  witiii 
a  lofty  tower.  The  flight  of  steps  iu  front  is  adorned  with  marble 
figures  of  £quity  and  Law ;  the  interior  contains  a  fine  Testibule  in 
Carrara  marble  and  a  large  reception-hall  in  a  Moorish  style.  — 
Behind  the  town-hall  lies  the  EstaeUfn  de  San  Agwtin  (p.  21). 

The  ^Campo  in  Yolamtin  (PI.  £,  3,  2)  descends  along  the 
river  for  about  i/j  ^'  ^^^  ^^^  town-hall,  commanding  a  series  of 
beautiful  TlewB.  At  the  end  of  it ,  on  the  hill  to  the  right,  Is  the 
caf^-restaurant  known  as  the  Campot  dd  Olimpo.  The  continuation 
of  this  street  (electric  tramway,  see  p.  21)  leads  past  the  (right) 
targe  Jesuit  College  to  the  suburb  of  DiwtOf  which  contains  the 
CoUgio  dc  3ordo»-Mudoi  y  Ciegoi  (asylum  for  deaf-mutes  and  the 
blind),  erected  in  1891.  Farther  on  the  road  leads  past  Luchana, 
Dtsierto^  and  other  manufacturing  places  to  Lai  Areruu  (p.  24). 

The  Nbw  Town  (Entanehe),  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Nerrion,  pos- 
sesses wide  streets  and  substantial  modem  buildings.  The  principal 
approach  to  it  is  formed  by  the  Puente  del  Arenal  or  de  Jtabel  Se- 
gwnda  (PL  D,4),  erected  in  1878,  which  crosses  from  the  Aienal  and 
affords  a  good  view  of  the  shipping  in  the  river.   To  the  left,  just 
beyond  the  bridge,  is  the  PortugaUte  Station  (p.  21).   Farther  on, 
at  the  end  of  the  Galle  de  la  Estaci6n,   is  the  Plaza  OmouLAa 
(PL  G,  3)  or  Plaza  de  Isabel  Segunda,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  a 
tine  bronze  Btatxu  of  Diego  Lopez  de  Haro  (p.  21),  by  BenUiure. 
On  the  S.  side  of  the  plaza  is  the  Estaddn  del  NorU  (p.  211    On 
the  W.  side  begins  the  wide  Gban  Via  dh  Lopbz  db  Hard  (FL  G, 
B,  A,  3,  2, 1),  the  finest  street  in  the  new  town ,  ending  for  the 
present  at  the  Plata  EUptica  or  de  Lopet  de  Hwto  (PL  B,  2).  —  A 
little  to  the  N.  of  this  street  lies  the  Plana  de  Albia,  with  its  pretty 
grounds,  adjoined  by  the  church  of  San  Vicente  Mdrtir  (PL  D,  3), 
dating  originally  from  the  12th  cent,  but  in  its  present  form  a 
I^issanee  structure  of  the  16th  cent.,  with  eight  massiTe  round 
piers  and  fine  vaulting.    To  the  W.  is  the  Mereado  de  Ensanehe 
(PI.  C,  2).  —  To  the  S.  of  the  Gran  Via,  at  the  comer  of  the  Ala- 
oieda  de  Urqnijo  and  the  Galle  Ayala,  is  the  modern  Gothic  church 
of  La  Resideneia  (PI.  G,  3).    At  the  comer  of  the  Gran  Via  and  the 
Calle  Astarloa  is  the  new  Paiaeio  de  la  Diputaddn  Provincial  (PL  B, 
^j  %  3),  in  the  baroque  style,  by  Luis  Aladren. 

Walks  (very  attractive).  To  the  Englith  Cemetery  (Cementerio  Ipgl^s), 
^  th«  left  bank  of  tli«  Nervioa,  below  the  Kew  Town.  Many  British 
(Officers  are  buried  here.  —  From  the  Inatituto  (p.  22),  paat  the  CiUholie 
Ctmeterp  (Campo  Santo  de  Mallonai  PI.  E,  4,5),  to  the  (1  H.)  high-lying 
fWcA  of  Begolia,  a  building  of  the  l6th  cent.,  with  a  tower  added  in 
^.  The  hill  affords  a  splendid  'View  of  Bilbao  and  the  valley  of  the 
^«rvion,  seen  at  its  best  by  eveniug-light. 

From  Bilbao  to  Santander^  aee  p.  44. 


24    RouU  2.  PORTUGALETE.        From  Zvmdrraga 

Fbom  Bilbao  to  Pobtuqale'te,  TVs  M.,  railway  in  25  min.  (24  trains 
daily,  fares  80,  66,  86e.).  Stalion  in  Bilbao,  see  p.  20.  —  The  train 
descends  the  rapidly  expanding  valley,  generally  close  to  the  left  bank  of 
the  Nervion.  It  passes  the  stations  of  Olaveaffa,  with  nnmerous  vineyards, 
and  Zorroxa.  We  Uien  cross  the  Cadagua  and  reach  Luchana.  The  valley 
conk^acts.  —  AVz  M.  DtHerto^  with  numerous  iron  famaees  and  foundries. 
Farther  on  we  cross  the  GalindOy  thread  a  short  tunnel,  and  reach  Sestao^ 
with  iron-works.  At  low  Ude  the  broad  channel  of  the  river  here  is 
usually  dry.  •—  V/t  M.  Portufalste  iH&tel-Be$taurant  Jnza,  with  a  view 
terrace  (  Bath  RettauraatjWiih  hot  and  cold  sea-baths,  both  on  the  quay), 
a  small  seaport  with  4300  inhab.,  lies  at  tbe  mouth  of  the  Kervion  in  the 
Bay  of  Biibao.  The  narrow  streets ,  with  their  balconied  bouses,  stretch 
picturesquely  up  the  hillside.  At  the  top  is  a  tasteful  Gothic  church. 
The  Batneriat^  or  church-festivals,  take  place  on  July  26th,  Aug.  16-16th, 
and  Sept.  9th.  There  is  a  small  Englith  Church  here,  used  hy  the  British 
residents  and  the  seafaring  community.  The  *MueUe  da  Churmea^  a  fine 
quay  with  good  views,  extends  from  the  station  past  the  PuenU  ViMcapa 
(see  below)  and  ends  in  a  mole.  2/s  ^-  longi  erected  to  protect  the  harbour. 
The  Lighthowe  at  the  end  of  the  mole  commands  a  splendid  view  of  the 
bay.  On  the  low  E.  bank  are  Las  Arenas^  Algorta,  and  the  Funta  d«  GaUm. 
and  on  the  steep  W.  bank  is  Santurce^  all  with  pretty  villas  and  commanded 
by  the  fort  on  the  Monte  de  Serantes  (electric  tramways  to  Bilbao,  see  p.  21). 

The  intercourse  between  Portugalete  and  Las  Arenas  is  carried  on  by 
the  iron  *Fveiit«  Yisoaya,  a  so-called  ^puente  trasbordador',  constructed 
in  1893  by  Palaeio  of  Bilbao  at  a  cost  of  800,000  p.  (32,000/.).  Two  massive 
double-piers,  204  ft.  in  height,  stand  on  stone  jplatforms  close  to  the  edge 
of  the  river  and  support  a  light  iron  bridge,  580  ft.  long  and  150  ft.  above 
the  water.  From  this  bridge  hangs  a  flying-ferry,  about  16  ft.  above  the 
water,  moving  on  wheels  and  propelled  1^  an  engine  in  the  lower  part 
of  the  E.  pier.  This  can  accommodate  200  persons  and  crosses  the  river 
in  1  min.  (fares  10  c,  5  c).  The  vehicle  is  steadied  by  a  net-work  of 
thin  wire-ropes,  and  the  stability  of  the  upper  bridge  is  also  increased  by 
wire-cables  passing  over  the  tops  of  the  piers  and  embedded  in  the  ground 
beyond.  —  Laa  Arenas  (Fonda  y  Cafi  del  Reereo;  Fonda  Nwva;  H6t.  Ven- 
tura^ all  near  the  bridge)  has  an  excellent  bathing  beach,  which  attracts 
numerous  Spanish  visitors  in  spite  of  the  somewhat  unsatisfactory  ac- 
commodation (season,  mid-June  to  end  of  Sept.).  There  are  an  unpretend- 
ing Curhaus  and  numerous  lodging-houses.  Las  Arenas  is  connected  by 
electric  tramway  (see  p.  21)  with  Bilbao  (40  e.)  and  (1  M.)  Algorta  (20  c.), 
another  small  sea-bathing  resort,  and  with  Bilbao  also  by  railway  (7Vt  M.  \ 
20  trains  daily ^  fares  60,  80  e.^  stotion  at  Bilbao,  see  p.  21).  Another 
narrow-gauge  railway  runs  via  Algorta  to  (9V3  H .)  Flencia^  a  seaside-resort 
at  the  month  of  the  river  of  that  name. 


The  Railway  fbom  Bilbao  to  Miranda  db  Ebbo,  starting  from 
the  £8taci6n  del  Norte,  passes  through  a  tunnel  and  aseends  the  left 
bank  of  the  Nervion.  On  the  slopes  are  many  iron  -  mines ;  the 
river  is  bridled  by  several  weirs.  —  41/2  M.  Dos  Caminos  (p.  20). 

—  6  M.  Arrigorriagat  with  a  paper-mill.  The  name  (Basque :  'red- 
dyed  stone')  commemorates  the  victory  of  the  Basques  of  Ylzcaya 
over  Ordono,  son  of  Ramiro  I.  of  Asturlas  (848).  —  O^g  M.  Mira^ 
valUSj  with  a  machine-factory,  in  a  pretty  wooded  district.  The 
train  crosses  the  river  eight  times.  —  13  M.  Areta,  at  the  confluence 
of  the  Oroseo  with  the  Nervion.   We  enter  the  province  of  Alava, 

—  13^4  M.  JUodio,  amid  vineyards  and  groves  of  nut-trees.  To  the 
*ight  are  the  small  ferruginous  baths  of  Luyando,   Near  by  is  a 

^ne  cross,   on  the  site  of  the  Malato  Tree,  which  marked  the  N. 
lit  of  the  recruiting  powers  of  Castile  (comp.  p.  4).  —  We  cross 


J!I!^?A[mal^^^^i*^n]^b?^!aip^f 


1    iJipufiti'f'nii  p7yimtc/Vj/         K  -S 
rj  P/irnff  iff  VfiKt  Y.    t 


to  Mirand(»,  de  mro,        ORDUflA.  2.  Hfrnie.    25 

the  river  three  times  more.  —  21^2  H.  Amwrio  (605  ft.).  On  the 
slopes  are  seTeral  Basque  farms  (p.  4).  —  The  train  continues  to 
follow  the  left  bank  of  the  Nervion.  The  next  bit  of  the  line  is  the 
finest  of  all,  a  rise  of  1400  ft.  being  overcome  in  about  20  M.  To 
the  left  the  view  extrads  to  the  crest  of  the  Cantabrian  Mta.  and  in- 
cludes the  PeSia  Oorvea  (6015  ft),  the  highest  summit  in  Yizcaya. 
The  valley  contracts.  To  the  left ,  about  650  ft.  above  the  valley 
and  about  2  M.  distant  as  the  crow  flies,  may  be  seen  the  higher 
part  of  the  railway. 

25Vs  M.  Ordufta  (ca.  935  a),  an  ancient  town  of  3000  inhab., 
frequently  mentioned  in  Basque  history,  lies  in  the  uppermost  level 
of  the  N^vion  valley,  a  high-lying  plain  bounded  on  the  W.  by  the 
abrupt  limestone  cliifs  of  the  Ptna  de  Orduna,  The  'concha*  of  Or- 
daiia  forms  an  enclave  of  Yizcaya  within  the  province  of  Alava. 

The  railway  ascends  on  the  £.  side  of  the  valley,  at  first  on  the 
£.  flank  of  the  Pe&a  de  Ordufia,  and  describes  a  curve  of  7-8  M.  in 
length,  the  ends  of  which  are  only  V2^-  apart.  About  halfway,  near 
the  village  of  DeUea,  it  crosses  the  Nervion  and  threads  two  short 
tunnels.  To  the  left  we  have  a  retrospect  of  OrduHa  and  the  section 
of  the  railway  we  have  Just  passed  over.  The  line  now  enters  the 
valley  of  the  Oro%eo.  34  M.  Lezama.  Another  great  curve  and  three 
tannels  bring  us  to  (40  M.)  the  grandly  situated  InoaOy  beyond  which 
the  train  ascends ,  high  up  on  the  mountain-side,  with  fine  views 
(left)  of  the  deep  wooded  valley  of  the  Orozco  and  the  Pe&a  Gorvea,  to 
the  QuJuU  Tunnel  (2045  ft.),  through  the  Montana  de  OujuU,  the 
watershed  between  the  sea  and  the  valley  of  the  Ebro.  The  line  then 
descends,  through  an  oak-forest  on  the  S.  slope  of  the  Cantabrian 
Mts.,  to  (43^2  ^0  iMirra  (Basque  *star')  and  enters  the  attractive 
valley  of  the  Baycu,  —  51 72  ^-  Zuazo,  with  sulphur-baths,  lies  to 
the  left,  on  the  steep  hillside.  The  valley  contracts  and  forms  the 
limestone  gorge  of  Teehae,  Tunnel.  —  55Vj  M.  Pobea.  We  cross  the 
river  several  times,  and  descend  in  a  curve  to  the  valley  of  the  Ebro, 
.  64  M.  Kiraiidft  de  Sbro,  see  p.  17.  —  From  Miranda  to  Burgos^ 
see  R.  1 ;  to  Saragona^  see  R.  12. 


3.  BurgoB. 

Tbe  BaUway  Btation  {Eitaeidn  dd  Ferroearril;  PI.  C,  5)  lies  a  little 
out  of  the  way,  in  the  Barrio  de  Santa  Dorolea,  to  the  S.W.  of  the  city. 

Hotels  (eomp.  p.  xz).  Hotxl  dk  Paris  (PI.  a ;  F,  O,  3),  in  the  Espolon, 
Vz  X.  from  the  cathedral  j  *Hot.  dkl  Nobtb  t  de  Loitdbeb  (PI.  b;  E,  3), 
Calle  de  Lain  Calvo,  pens.  9,  omn.  1  p. ;  Hot.  Monin  (PI.  c :  F,  3),  Calls  del 
Almirante  Bonifaz  7  and  9,  in  the  Spiinish  style,  unpretending,  pens.  6-8  p. 
—  *Cqfi  SuizOj  in  the  Espolon. 

Garriagea  may  be  hired  at  the  hotels  or  of  Lino  Dorao^  Calle  de 
Avellanos. 

Baths.  ElBecuerdo,  Paseo  de  los  Vadillos;  Azwla,  Calle  de  la  Puebla  36. 

Booksellers.  Berce,  Plaza  de  Prim  21  •,  Rodrigvz,  Calle  de  Lain  Calvo  12. 

Theatre  (PI.  P,  3),  in  the  Espolon.  —  Bull  Bing  {Plaza  de  Torot;  PI.  G,2), 
Paieo  de  los  VadlUoa. 


26    Routes,  BUB008.  HUUyry: 

PMt  Office  iC9rrw;  PI.  F,  3),  Espolon  58.  —  Telegnph  Office  (PI.  F,  2), 
Calle  de  Lain  Calvo. 

Principal  Attractiona  (visit  of  one  day) :  Etpolon  (p.  27)  *,  Cathedral  (p.  27)  ; 
excursion  to  the  Cartuja  d«  Warafloru  (p.  94). 

Burgos  (2786  ft.),  the  capital  of  the  provinee  of  the  same  name 
and  the  seat  of  the  Gaptain-deneral  and  of  an  Archbishop,  lies  in 
the  midst  of  the  monotonous  plateau  of  North  Castile,  on  both  hanks 
of  the  Arlanzdn,  an  insignificant  stream  subject  to  dangerous  in- 
undations. The  city,  "with  its  31,600  inhab.,  presses  closely  on  a 
hill  (300  ft.)  surmounted  by  the  ruins  of  an  old  castle.  At  the  S.  W. 
base  of  this  hill,  on  a  site  partly  hollowed  out  in  It,  stands  the 
cathedral,  one  of  the  marvels  of  the  Gothic  architecture  of  Spain. 
The  city  is  surrounded  by  promenades.  The  fertile  plain  around 
Burgos,  in  the  midst  of  which  lies  Las  Huelgas  (p.  34),  is  watered 
by  the  various  channels  through  which  the  Pico  brook  (N.W.)  is 
led  and  by  the  ramifications  of  the  Arlanz6n.  —  The  summer  at 
Burgos  is  excessively  warm,  but  for  the  greater  part  of  the  year  the 
climate  is  one  of  the  coldest  in  Spain.  While  exposed  in  summer 
to  the  torrid  S.  wind,  it  is  visited  at  other  seasons  by  the  prevail- 
ing N.W.  and  N.E.  winds,  which  bring  the  cool  air  f^om  the  moun- 
tains to  the  N.  Burgos,  and  not  Madrid,  is  the  true  source  of  the 
popular  phrase:  nueve  meses  de  inviernOj  tres  de  infiemo  (p.  62). 
The  Italian  Navagero,  in  his  'Viaggio  in  Ispagna'  (Padua,  1718), 
asserts  that  'the  sun,  like  everything  else,  has  to  be  imported  into 
Burgos'.    Snow  has  been  known  to  fall  here  at  the  end  of  June.     * 

The  History  of  Burgos  is  closely  connected  with  that  of  Leon  and  Old 
Castile.  A  special  charm  belongs  to  it  as  the  home  of  the  national  hero 
of  Spain,  that  singular  condottiere  Rodrigo  (Ruy)  Diaz  de  Vivar  (1026-99), 
known  as  the  Spanish  Campeador  (or  champion),  with  the  Arabic  saflix 
el  dd  (Bidij  Said  =  lord).  We  can  still  tread  the  ^solar'  ('casa  sola')  on 
which  stood  the  house  in  which  he  was  born,  and  we  may  visit  his  re- 
mains in  the  town-hall  (p.  27),  where  they  now  repose  (since  1883),  after 
having  been  originally  buried  in  the  convent  of  Gardena  (p.  86)  and  then 
undergoing  a  series  of  strange  vicissitudes,  including  a  partial  transportation 
to  Sigmaringen  in  Germany.  About  6  M.  to  the  N.  of  Burgos  lies  the 
village  of  Vivar,  whence  the  Cid  took  his  name.  In  the  church  of  Santa 
Agueda  (p.  32)  King  Alfonso  VI.  swore  solemnly  to  the  Cid  that  he  was 
not  the  murderer  of  his  brother  Sancho  (comp.  Sou^ey"*  'Chronicle  of  the 
Cid\  III.  11).  Ximena,  wife  of  the  Cid,  lived  in  a  small  house  near  the 
convent  of  Cardena  from  the  fall  of  Valencia  (p.  254)  till  1104. 

According  to  tradition  Burgos  was  founded  in  884  by  Diego  Rodriguez 
Forcelot,  a  Castilian  count.  At  first  it  was  under  the  protection  of  Asturias. 
However,  after  Ordono  II.  had  massacred  the  descendants  of  Porcelos,  the 
city  adopted  a  republican  form  of  government  and  elected  its  own  ^Ma- 
gistrados\  the  first  of  whom  are  said  to  have  been  ^vHo  Ratura  and  Lain 
Calvo.  In  the  time  of  Feman  Gonzalez  (p.  32)  it  became  capital  of  the 
countship  of  Castile.  Later  it  passed  by  marriage  to  the  united  kingdoms 
of  Leon  and  Castile  and  was  selected  as  the  capital  of  Old  Castile.  In  1074 
it  was  made  the  seat  of  a  bishop,  instead  of  Auca  (now  Oca),  but  It  lost 
much  of  its  splendour  when  the  royal  residence  was  transferred  to  Toledo 
in  1067.  It  joined  the  Comuneros  (p.  6'3),  but  appeased  the  wrath  of 
Charles  V.  by  building  the  triumphal  gate  of  Santa  Haria  (p.  27).  Thencefor- 
ward Burgos  merely  vegetated ;  'nothing  remains  except  its  name''  says  a 
writer  of  the  17th  century.  In  modern  times,  however,  there  has  been 
some  improvement  \  and  Burgos  now  makes  the  impression  of  a  well-kept 
ftnd  thriving  town. 


CATEDRAL  DE  BURGOS 

Metros 


Plaza 


SaiLta     ^aria 


i  CapiRa.  djel  Santisinu)  Crista  6  CapiUfl  dbt  Sait  Gregorio 

2       «      deSanJiiarLdeSeihctffiui    7       "       dBlobAsunjOj&n- 
^RfiUario  8       "      deloLNatinSLad. 

^CapHladelaVigUacioTi  0       *       deSa/tNieoloM 

^      "      de  SanEnriifue-  tOEscalan.  Dorado. 


Caghedrak  BUROOa  3,  Route.    27 

In  1812  WelUnftOB  beaieged  Bargoa  foor  times  without  success,  but  it 
surrendered  to  bim  tbe  following  year. 

From  the  railway-station  (PI.  C,  5)  an  avenue  leads  to  the  N.  to 
the  river  Arlanzdn^  here  bridled  by  a  weir  (presaj.  Opposite ,  on 
the  tight  bank,  are  the  Pa»eo  de  la  hla  (p.  32)  and  tbe  Palaeio  de 
JtuUeiOy  erected  in  1878-83.  To  the  right,  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
river,  in  the  Plaza  del  Instituto,  is  the  former  CoUgio  de  San  Nieola$y 
containing  tbe  JfutUuio  Provincial  (PI.  D,  4),  a  technical  academy. 
Fine  view  of  Hnd  cathedral.  Farther  to  the  right,  in  the  Gontrada  de 
la  Merced,  is  the  old  Convtnto  de  la  Merced^  now  the  Military  Hos" 
piUd  (Pi.  E,  4). 

The  PuenU  de  Santa  Maria  (PL  £,  3,  4),  with  its  seven  arches, 
leads  across  the  river  to  the  handsome  Paieo  del  Espoloa  Vicjo 
(PL  £,  3),  which  contains  the  Theatre  (PL  F,  3)  and  several  of  the 
'Reyes'  (see  p.  96)  presented  by  Charles  lil.  in  1747.  On  the  N. 
side  of  the  Espolon,  with  ito  main  facade  towards  the  Plaza  Mayor, 
stands  the  Caia  Contiitorial  (town-ball;  PL  £,  3),  built  by  Qonzaltt 
de  Lara  in  1788.  The  Saldn  de  Seeionea  contains  the  rough  wooden 
chairs  of  the  early  'Jueces^  Nuuo  Basura  and  Lain  Calvo  (p.  26). 
The  bones  of  the  Oid  and  Ximena  (p.  26)  are  preserved  in  the  Capilla, 
The  picturesque  Plaza  Matob  (PL  £,  F,  3),  with  its  shops  and 
arcades,  is  in  the  form  of  an  irregular  pentagon,  in  the  middle  of 
which  rises  a  Statue  of  CharUa  IJL,  by  Antonio  Tomtf  (1784). 

At  the  W.  end  of  the  Espolon  sUnds  the  Arco  de  Santa  Maria 
(PL  E,  3),  a  curious  gateway,  erected  in  1536-52,  flanked  by  semi- 
circular towers  and  adorned  with  pinnacles  and  with  statues  of 
Nuno  Baeuray  Lain  Calvo,  Diego  Poreelotj  Feman  Qonaudez,  the  Cid^ 
and  Charlee  K.  Above  is  a  balustrade  with  the  'plus  ultra'  columns 
of  Charles  V.  and  the  guardian  angel  of  Burgos.  Over  the  arch  is  an 
image  of  the  Virgin  Mary.  Iir  the  interior  is  a  small  Museum,  con- 
taining the  Tomb  of  Juan  de  Padilla  from  the  convent  of  Fres  de 
Val  (p.  36),  a  Roman  Statue  from  Salonica,  a  Viaigothic  Tomb  of  the 
6th  cent.,  and  a  bronze  Altar  Front  from  the  convent  of  Santo  Do- 
mingo de  Silos  (fee  ^/^-i  p.)- 

TIlo  short  street  running  hence  to  the  N.W.  leads  to  the  Plaza 
de  Sarmental,  virlth  the  Arehiepi$cop<U  Palace  (PL  E,  3),  and  to  the 
small  Plaza  de  Santa  Maria  (PL  2;  D,  3).  We  now  find  ourselves 
in  front  of  the  imposing  W.  facade  of  the  cathedral.  To  the  left, 
above  us,  is  the  church  of  San  Nicolas  (p.  31). 

The  ^^Cathedral  (PL  J),  £,  3 ;  comp.  also  the  ground-plan  ot 
the  interior),  constructed  of  the  white,  marble-like  limestone  of 
Ontoria,  was  founded  on  July  20th,  1221,  by  Ferdinand  UI.  ('el 
Santo')  and  Bishop  Maurice,  an  Englishman.  It  therefore  originated 
in  the  best  period  of  the  Gothic  style,  though  it  was  not  finished 
for  more  than  300  years.  The  towers  of  the  main  facade  were  built 
in  1442-58  by  Juan  de  Colonia  (John  of  Cologne);  the  octagonal 
lantern  above  the  crossing  was  completed  by  Philip  VigarnCy  a  Bur- 


28    BouUa.  BURGOS.  Cathedral. 

gun  dial),  in  1567,  to  replace  a  brick  stmcture  that  had  collapsed  in 
1539.  The  lowest  part  of  the  W.  facade  -was  remodelled  in  the 
Renaissance  style  in  1790.  —  We  hegln  our  inspection  of  the 
cathedral  by  walking  round  the  outside.  The  principal  (S.W.) 
facade  has  three  entrances.  In  the  middle  is  the  Puerta  Principal, 
adorned  with  statues  of  Ferdinand  III.,  Alfonso  YI.  (these  two  from 
the  old  building),  Bishop  Maurice,  and  Bishop  Asterio  de  Oca. 
The  two  smaller  doors  to  the  right  and  left  are  adorned  with  re- 
liefs of  the  Coronation  of  the  Virgin  and  the  Conception,  by  Juan 
de  Pove$  (1663).  Above  the  central  doorway  is  a  large  rose- window, 
and  above  this,  in  the  third  stage  of  the  facade,  are  two  large  Qothic 
windows.  To  the  right  and  left,  at  the  ends  of  the  aisles,  the  two 
Towers  y  also  with  graceful  window -openings,  rise  to  a  height  of 
275  ft.  Above  the  pinnacled  galleries  they  end  in  crocketed  spires, 
originally  surmounted  by  statues  of  SS.  Peter  and  Paul.  The  best 
♦View  of  this  facade  Is  obtained  f^om  the  church  of  San  Nicolas 
(p.  31).  In  the  Calle  de  Feman  Gonzalez  is  the  N.W.  portal  (gener- 
ally closed),  the  so-called  Ptierta  de  la  Coroneria  (13th  cent.), 
whence  the  *golden  staircase'  (p.  30)  descends  to  the  transept  of  the 
cathedral,  about  30  ft.  below.  The  portal,  which  is  also  known  as 
the  Puerta  Alia  or  Puerta  de  los  Apdstolet,  U  profusely  adorned 
with  sculpture.  The  N.  door  of  the  same  transept,  named  P^rta 
de  la  Pellejeria  from  its  position  at  the  end  of  the  ^Street  of  the 
Furriers',  was  built  by  Francisco  de  Colonia  in  1516  and  is  in  the 
florid  Renaissance  style.  We  now  walk  round  the  N.E.  end  of  the 
church  and  the  cloisters  till  we  reach  the  Puerta  del  Sarmenlal,  or 
door  of  the  S.  transept,  a  lavishly  decorated  Gothic  work,  named 
after  a  family  that  owned  the  adjoining  houses.  Perhaps  the  most 
imposing  feature  of  the  whole  exterior  is  the  octagonal  CimboriOy 
or  lantern  above  the  central  crossing,  which  terminates  in  eight 
crocketed  and  perforated  pinnacles  adorned  with  statues. 

4t  is  not  a  little  curious,  and  perhaps  not  very  gratifying  to  the  amour 
propre  of  Spanish  artists,  that  in  this  great  church  the  two  periods  in 
which  the  most  artistic  vigour  was  shown,  and  the  grandest  architectural 
works  undertaken,  were  marked,  the  first  by  the  rule  of  a  well-travelled 
bishop  —  commonly  said  to  be  an  Englishman  —  under  an  English  princess, 
and  who  seems  to  have  employed  an  Angevine  architect^  and  the  second 
by  the  rule  of  another  travelled  bishop,  who,  coming  home  from  Germany, 
brought  with  him  a  German  architect,  into  whose  hands  all  the  great 
works  in  the  city  seem  at  once  to  have  been  put*  ('Gothic  Architecture  in 
Spain\  by  G.  E.  Street). 

The  *Intbbiob  (open  all  day ;  fee  for  opening  the  closed  chapels 
1-2  p.),  which  is  30b  ft.  long,  not  including  the  Condestable  chapel, 
is  remarkable  for  the  lofty,  spacious  effect  of  its  proportions.  The 
early-Gothic  nave  and  aisles,  somewhat  disflgared  by  the  unsightly 
core  (p.  29),  have  a  joint  width  of  82  ft.;  the  transept,  194  ft.  long, 
is  surmounted  by  Vigamfs  octagon,  165  ft.  in  height;  the  £.  end 
of  the  church  proper  is  formed  by  the  Capilla  Mayor,  with  its  am- 
bulatory. Numerous  chapels,  all,  except  that  of  San  Nicolas  (p,  31), 


CaOUdraL  BURGOS.  3.  Rmde.     29 

of  later  date,  sorroiind  the  church  uniymmetrically  bat  Dot  un- 
picturesquely.  The  old  Btained-glass  windows  were  destroyed  by 
a  powder-explosion  in  the  Castillo  (p.  32)  in  1813,  and  have  been 
mostly  replaced  by  medem  gUss  made  at  Munich. 

The  ^OcTAOOM,  which  is  borne  by  four  masslTc  and  richly 
decorated  piers,  is  Gothic  in  conception  but  shows  many  Renais- 
sance details. 

The  four  pi«n  aad  the  four  huge  Areot  Toratet  support  an  oeiagonal 
dnun,  aboTe  which  rises  a  dome.  The  walls  of  the  octagon  are  adorned 
with  the  arms  of  Charles  V.  and  the  city  of  Burgos,  with  figures  of 
patriareha  nnd  prophets,  and  with  many  other  sculptures.  Bound  it  run 
two  horixontal  galleries  and  two  rows  of  windows.  In  the  angles  are  large 
figures  of  seraphim.  The  groined  roofs  of  the  transept,  adjoinlag  the 
octagon,  are  Tery  elegant  and  picturesque. 

The  CoBo,  built  in  1497-1612,  is  of  unusual  height  and  inter- 
feres more  than  is  ordinarily  the  case  with  the  general  effect.  The  two 
rows  of  SiUeria  (choir-stalls);  by  Philip  Yigarnf,  are  elaborately 
carved  with  scenes  firom  the  Bible,  the  lives  of  the  Martyrs,  and  so 
on.  In  the  centre  of  the  coro,  which  is  enclosed  by  a  magnificent 
nja  of  1602,  is  the  monument  of  Bishop  Maurice  (d.  1238 ;  p.  271. 
The  screened  passages  leading  to  the  caplUa  mayor  date  fh)m  1679. 

The  retablo  of  the  high-altar  in  the  Cap£lla  Mayor  was  ex- 
eoQted  by  the  brothers  Bodrigo  and  Martin  del  Baya  in  the  Renais- 
sance style  in  1577-93,  and  is  richly  gilded.  The  TnU'Sagrarioj 
behind  the  altar,  contains  tine  Reliefs  of  the  Passion  in  white  stone ; 
the  three  in  the  middle  are  by  Philip  Yigarnf  (1540)  and  are  better 
than  the  others. 

A  Tisit  to  all  the  fifteen  ehapels  occupies  a  considerable  time. 
The  following  enumeration  begins  in  the  right  (S.)  aisle. 

The  Gafilla  dbl  Santisimo  Gristo  (PL  1)  is  so  named  from 
the  'Gristo  de  Burgos*,  a  celebrated  image  of  the  crucified  Sayiour, 
popukrly  supposed  to  consist  of  a  dried  and  stuffed  human  body. 

The  Capilla  db  la  pKBrnrrACioK ,  built  in  1520  et  seq.  by 
Canon  Gonzalo  de  Lerma,  contains  the  tombs  of  the  founder  (in  the 
nuddle)  and  of  Canon  Jacobo  de  Bilbao  (by  the  pillar  at  the  en- 
tianee).  The  ^Altar-pieee  (generally  covered)  is  a  Virgin  and  Child 
^  8eba$Uan  del  Plonio,  painted  at  Rome  about  1520  under  the  in- 
fluence of  Michael  Angelo. 

The  Capilla  db  Sait  Juan  db  Sahaoun  (PI.  2)  contains  the 
tomb  of  Be&to  Lesmes  (^hijo  de  Burgos;  abogado  del  dolor  de 
rinones",  i.e.  appealed  to  by  sufferers  flrom  disease  of  the  kidneys) 
and  six  paintings  of  the  Flemish-Spanish  school  of  the  15th  cent, 
(master  unknown).  —  Adjacent  is  the  Belicario  (PI.  3),  with  a 
highly-revered  image  of  the  Yirgen  de  Oca. 

We  now  reach  the  S.  transept,  with  its  magnificent  rose-window, 
wd  fh)m  it  enter  the  Capilla  db  la  Vmitacion  (PL  4),  built  in 
1442,  probably  by  Juan  de  Colonia  (p.  27).  In  the  middle  is  the 
^Monument  of  Bishop  Alonso  de  Cartagena  (d.  1456),  the  founder 


30    Routes.  BURGOS.  Catkedrai. 

of  the  ohapel,  by  Oil  de  8Uoe.  —  Opposite  this  chapel  is  the  Puerta 
del  Claustro  (p.  31). 

The  first  chapel  in  the  ambulatory  is  th«  Gapilla  db  San  Ew&i- 
QUE  (PI.  5),  with  the  tomb  of  its  founder,  Archbishop  Enrique  de 
Peralta  (d.  1679). 

Beyond  this  are  the  Sacristia  Nueva  and  the  large  Oapili«a  i>s 
Santiaqo.  The  latter,  built  by  Juan  de  VaUejo  in  1524-34,  is  used 
as  a  parish-ohuroh  and  so  is  usually  open.  It  contains  representa- 
tions of  St.  James  and  a  number  of  tombs. 

Behind  the  presbytery  opens  the  large  Gothic  ♦Capilla  dbi. 
OoNDBSTABi/B,  built  by  Simon  de  Colonia,  son  of  Juan,  in  1462  et 
seq.  for  Constable  Pedro  Hernandez  de  Velasco^  Count  de  Haro,  It  is 
entered  by  a  fine  Portal,  screened  by  an  admirable  reja  by  Cristobal 
Andino  (1623).  The  vaulting  of  the  chapel  is  pierced  with  the  most 
elaborate  tracery,  and  the  windows,  between  which  hang  two  ban- 
ners of  the  Constable,  contain  old  stained  glass.  The  high-altar  is 
adorned  with  fine  reliefs  and  sculptures.  The  smaller  winged  altar 
to  the  right,  with  good  paintings  of  the  Virgin  and  Child,  the  Adora- 
tion of  the  Child,  and  the  Presentation  in  the  Temple,  is  by  a 
Tlemish  master.  In  front  of  the  altar  are  the  magnificent  ♦Tombs 
of  the  Constable  (d.  1492),  who  was  also  Viceroy  of  Castile,  and  his 
wife,  the  Senora  Dona  Mencia  de  Mendoza^  Condesa  de  Haro  (d.  1600). 
The  sarcophagi  are  of  marble  from  the  adjacent  Sierra  de  Atapuerca ; 
the  figures  (that  of  the  Constable  in  full  armour)  are  of  Carrara 
marble.  The  artist  is  not  known.  On  the  walls  are  portraits  of  the 
Conde  and  Condesa,  with  the  arms  of  Navarre,  Castile,  and  Leon 
(chains,  crosses,  and  bells).  The  heavy  slab  of  Atapuerca  marble  ad- 
joining the  monuments  was  also  intended  for  a  tombstone.  —  The 
Sacristy  of  this  chapel  contains  a  painting  of  the  Penitent  Magdalen 
hy  Oiovanni  Pedrini ,  a  pupil  of  Leonardo  da  Vinci;  the  exquisite 
little  portable  altar  of  the  Constable,  in  ivory;  and  a  fine  alabaster 
relief  of  the  Virgin  and  Child  (16th  cent.). 

The  following  chapels  are  unimportant.  —  At  the  angle  between 
the  ambulatory  and  the  N.  transept  is  the  handsome  late-Gothic  mural 
monument  of  Archdeacon  Pedro  Fernandez  de  Villegas  (d.  1636). 

In  the  old  Capilla  db  San  Nicolas  (PI.  9),  by  the  left  wall, 
are  the  tomb  of  Bishop  Juan  de  Villahoz  (d.  1275)  and  a  portrait  of 
Pope  Alexander  VI.  (Borgia;  1492-1503),  at  one  time  a  oanon  of 
Burgos  Cathedral. 

At  the  end  of  the  N.  transept  is  the  great  *£8Calbba  Dorada 
(PI.  10),  a  flight  of  39  steps,  built  by  Dieffo  de  Siloe  in  1519  and 
ascending  to  the  Puerta  de  la  Coroneria  (p.  2^.  It  is  adorned  with 
the  arms  of  the  founder,  Bishop  Fonseca.  The  balustrades  are 
heavily  gilt. 

At  the  E.  end  of  the  N.  aisle  is  the  Capilla  db  Santa  Ana, 
built  by  Simon  de  Colonia  (see  above)  in  1477-88.  In  the  oentre  is 
the  tomb  of  the  founder,  Bishop  Luis  Osorio  de  AcuTia  (d.  1495) ;  to 


San  Nieolds.  BUROOS.  3.  RouU.    34 

the  left  is  that  of  Archdeacon  Fernando  Diez  de  Fnente  Pelayo 
(d.  1492).  The  handsome  retablo  of  the  high-altar,  richly  f;\\t  and 
punted,  exhibits  the  |cenealo|ncal  tree  of  Christ  springing  from  the 
breast  of  Abraham.  The  only  picture  of  value  is  a  Holy  Family  by 
Andrea  del  Sario  of  Florence. 

The  GaPii^LA  bb  Sakta  Tbola,  a  rococo  structure  of  1736,  has  a 
large  high-altar  and  a  gorgeously  painted  cupola  (media  naranja). 

In  the  nave«  near  the  U«t-nanied  chapel,  above  the  first  triroriiim,  is 
a  Clocky  probably  dating  from  1519,  with  the  popular  flgure  of  I\ipa  Moutu^ 
which  i.4  joined,  when  four  o*clock  strikes,  by  another  named  Martinillo. 

The  noble  Gothic  *Cloibtbb8  (^Claustro;  open  all  day)  date 
from  the  14tli  century.  They  are  entered  by  the  Pueria  del  Ciaustro 
(p.  30),  which  is  adorned  with  figures  of  the  Annunciation  (left) 
and  David  and  Isaiab  (right),  a  bust  of  St.  Francis  of  Assisi,  and  a 
relief  of  the  Baptism  of  Christ.  The  ancient  wooden  door  is  carved 
with  reliefs  of  Christ  entering  Jerusalem  and  Christ  in  Hades.  The 
cloisters  contain  many  statues  and  tombs.  Among  the  best  of  these 
are  the  statues  of  Ferdinand  the  Saint  (p.  27)  and  his  wife  Beatrice 
of  Swabia  (13th  cent.),  on  the  N.  wall,  adjoining  the  entrance }  and 
the  tomb  of  Diego  de  Santander  (d.  16*23),  ascribed  to  Diego  de 
Siloe  (?),  with  a  relief  of  the  Virgin  and  Child  (S.  wall).The  beau- 
tiful tracery  in  the  arches  of  the  cloisters  is  artistically  coloured. 

From  the  E.  walk  of  the  cloisters  we  enter  the  ancient  Capilla 
i)BL  GoBPUs  Cbisti  or  de  Juan  CuchiUer^  containing  the  tomb  of 
this  *head  cook'  of  Henry  HI.  f^el  Doliente')  and  that  of  Miguel 
Esteban  del  Hnerto  del  Key  (d.  12&3)  and  his  wife  Uzenda  (d.  1296), 
Condes  de  Castaneda.  Fastened  to  the  K.  wall  is  the  celebrated 
Coffer  of  the  Cid^  'la  doyenne  des  malles  du  monde',  as  Th.  Gautier 
calls  it,  which  the  Campeador  filled  with  sand  and  pledged  for 
600  marks  to  the  Burgos  Jews  Rachel  and  Vidaa^  who  supposed  it  to 
contain  gold  or  valuables.  It  is  satisfactory  to  add  that  the  Cid 
honestly  redeemed  his  pledge.  —  Adjacent  is  the  Sala  Capitular, 
or  chapter-house,  dating  from  1596  and  containing  an  artesonado 
ceiling,  an  altar-piece  ('el  Cristo  de  la  AgoniV)  ascribed  to  Dorn. 
Theotoc6pulif  a  Flemish  triptych,  and  other  paintings  (15th  cent.). 


The  small  Gothic  church  of  8aa  ]lieol4t  (PI.  D,  3 ;  sacristan, 
r^alle  Cabeatreros  3),  dating  from  1505,  consists  of  a  nave  and 
aisles,  divided  by  pillars  and  roofed  with  fine  vaulting.  The  'high 
ckoir',  on  the  W.  side,  rests  on  four  sculptured  arches  and  has  a 
beautiful  balustrade.  In  the  left  aisle  are  three  Gothic  tombs  of  the 
Maluenda  family  (with  their  arms)  and  a  retablo  with  eight  paint- 
ings. A  large  arch  adorned  with  the  heads  of  angels  leads  to  the 
*High  AUar,  which  is  lavishly  adorned  with  reliefs  of  scenes  from 
the  Bible  and  the  life  of  St.  Nicholas.  Below,  to  the  left,  are  the 
founder  and  the  institution  of  the  Last  Supper;  to  the  right,  the 
founder's  wife  and  Christ  on  the  Mt.  of  Olives.    To  the  right  and 


32     RouU3.  BURGOS.  Ca$UUo. 

left  of  the  altar  are  the  tomhs  of  Alfonso  Polanco  (d.  1412)  and 
Oonzalo  Polanco  (d.  1605),  with  their  wives. 

A  little  to  the  N.  and  somewhat  higher  up  is  the  Gothic  church 
of  San  Sitiban  (PLD,  £,  2, 3),  hoUt  in  1280-1360,  with  a  fine  W. 
doorway  surmounted  by  a  rose- window.  Inside,  to  the  left  of  the 
entrance,  is  a  small  Gothic  chapel  over  the  font.  In  the  nave,  to  the 
left,  below  the  organ-gallery,  is  a  fine  Renaissance  recess,  with  a 
relief  of  the  Last  Supper.  Adjacent  is  the  pulpit  The  S.  aisle  con- 
tains a  similar  recess,  with  two  sarcophagi  and  a  relief  of  the  Scourg- 
ing of  Christ.  Here  also  is  a  Renaissance  portal.  Above  the  door 
of  the  Sacristy  is  a  painting  of  the  Last  Supper ,  with  a  Cuflc  in- 
scription (14th  cent.).  —  The  CloUten,  to  the  S.  of  the  church, 
call  for  no  remark. 

From  San  Est^an  we  ascend  in  5  min.  to  the  Caitillo  (PI.  G, 

D,  2),  which  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  city,  the  valley  of  the 
Arlanz6n,  the  Gartuja,  and  the  mountains  to  the  S.£.  This  was  the 
residence  of  the  mighty  Feman  Gonzalez,  Count  of  Castile  (d.  970), 
who  strove  to  maintain  his  independence  of  Leon ;  and  it  was  after- 
wards the  seat  of  the  Castilian  kings.  The  Cid  was  here  married  to 
Ximena  in  1074,  and  Edward  I.  of  England  to  Eleanor  of  Castile  in 
1264.  The  principal  apartments  were  destroyed  by  Are  in  1736. 
but  in  1812  the  French  were  able  to  defend  the  fortress  successfully 
against  the  Duke  of  Wellington. 

Descending  from  the  castle  towards  the  S.,  we  reach  the  Arco  dt 
Feman  Gonzalez  (PI.  C,  3),  a  triumphal  arch  erected  by  Philip  II. 
in  honour  of  this  great  Burgalese  (see  above).  To  the  N.W.  of  the 
arch  lies  the  Cementerio  (PI.  C,  3),  with  its  *  niche-graves'  (comp. 
p.  210)  and  numerous  cypresses.  Opposite  the  cemetery  is  the  mon- 
ument of  Qen.  Juan  Martin  Diez  (1776-1826),  *el  Empecinado'.  On 
the  road  to  the  N.W.  of  the  cemetery  are  three  Stone  Monuments, 
erected  in  1784  and  bearing  the  arms  of  Castile  and  the  Cid  (p.  26) ; 
these  mark  the  site  of  the  Solmr  del  Cid  (PI.  C,  2),  or  plot  on  which 
stood  the  house  where  that  doughty  warrior  was  born  (1026).  — 
The  cemetery  is  here  bounded  by  the  old  wall  of  the  Oubos.  By 
descending  along  the  outside  of  this,  we  reach  the  *P<ueo  de  los 
Oubos  (PI.  B,  C,  3),  the  semicircular  towers  (eubos)  in  which  afford 
an  excellent  idea  of  the  style  of  the  old  Castilian  fortifications. 

The  FOteo  de  la  Ula  (PI.  A,  B,  3),  to  the  S.W.  of  this  point,  on  the 
river,  leads  to  (1  M.)  the  PuefUe  de  Malatos  (PI.  A,  2,  3)  and  to  (Vt  M.) 
the  convent  of  Las  Huelgat  (p.  34). 

From  the  Paseo  de  los  Cubos  the  Calle  de  la  Ronda  leads  to  the 

E.  to  the  church  of  Santa  Agneda  or  Gadia  (PI.  D,  3 ;  sacristan  on 
the  E.  side  of  the  church,  opposite  the  Seminario  de  San  Jerdnimo; 
fee  60  c.),  an  aisleless  Gothic  edifice,  famous  for  the  ^Jura  en  Santa 
Oadea%  or  oath  which  Alfonso  VI.  was  compelled  by  the  Cid  to 
take  before  his  accession  to  the  throne  (p.  26).  The  king  took  the 
oath  three  times:  first  by  the  cross  at  the  entrance,  then  by  the  bolt 
of  the  door  ('cerrojo*;  now  preserved  inside,  to  the  left),  and  lastly 


Casa  de  Miranda,  BURGOS.  3.  Route,    33 

by  the  Gospels  on  the  high-alUi.  Alfonso  wm  at  first  unwilling 
to  take  the  oath,  until  a  knight  exdaimed:  *take  the  oath  and  fear 
nought ;  never  was  a  king  fonnd  guilty  of  perjury  or  a  pope  ex- 
communicated'. To  the  S.  of  the  high -altar  is  the  tomh  of  the 
founder  of  the  church. 

We  next  proceed  to  the  S.E.,  passing  the  S.  side  of  the  cathedral, 
and  then  follow  the  busy  Calle  de  la  Paloma  and  Calle  de  Lain  Calvo 
(PI.  E,  F,  3, 2)  towards  the  N.£.  The  last  side-street  to  the  left  in 
the  Utter  brings  us  to  the  church  of  Ban  Oil  (PI.  £,  F,  2),  a  building 
of  the  14th  cent.,  containing  some  interesting  tombs  and  pictures. 
The  high-altar  in  the  CapUla  de  la  NaUvidad  (second  to  the  left, 
eoanted  from  the  entrance)  is  adorned  with,  scenes  from  the  life  of 
the  Virgin.  The  next  chapel  contains  a  Santiaimo  Ort«(o,  which 
claims  to  be  a  more  authentic  original  than  that  in  the  cathedral 
(p.  29).  By  the  entrance  to  the  sacristy  are  two  paintings  by  Raphael 
Menga.  The  Iron  PidpH,  at  the  N.W.  pier  of  the  crossing,  is  adorned 
with  fine  Gothic  tracery  and  surmounted  by  a  canopy. 

We  now  return  through  the  Calle  de  los  Avellanos  to  the  former 
Audieneia  (PI.  F,  2 ;  now  a  barrack),  with  its  fine  patio.  To  the  N.E. 
lie  the  Arena  for  BuU  Fight$  (PI.  G,  2 ;  p.  26)  and  the  shady  Paseo 
de  los  VadiUoe  (PI.  G,  H,  1). 

The  Casa  del  Cord6n  (PI.  F,  3),  now  the  Capitanfd  General^  built 
at  the  end  of  the  16th  cent,  by  the  Constable  de  Velasco  (p.  30), 
lies  in  the  Plaza  de  la  Libertad  and  occupies  almost  a  whole  block. 
The  arms  of  the  builder  and  those  of  his  wife ,  a  member  of  the 
Mendoza  family  (p.  30),  are  shown  on  every  available  space,  con- 
nected by  the  *cordon'  of  the  Franciscans  (p.  120).  An  imposing  idea 
of  its  former  magnificence  is  still  afforded  by  the  facade  with  its 
square-headed  portal  and  by  the  numerous  crockets,  flnials,  and 
figures.  The  Porch  leading  to  the  court  has  some  curious  adorn- 
ments, and  the  Patio  itself  is  surrounded  by  a  beautiful  frieze  and 
by  an  arcade  resting  on  16  pillars.  The  interior  contains  several 
portraits  of  members  of  the  Yelasco  family. 

Our  route  now  crosses  the  Plaza  de  Prim  (PI.  F,  3),  in  the 
middle  of  which  is  a  tasteftil  fountain,  and  then  leads  past  the  Palacio 
de  la  Diputacidn  Provincial  (PI.  1 ;  F,  3)  and  the  Theatre  (p.  26)  to 
the  Puente  de  San  Pablo  (PI.  F,  3,  4),  here  crossing  the  Arlanzon. 
In  the  Barrio  de  Vega,  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  the  long  Pa^eo 
de  la  Quinta  (PI.  G,  H,  4)  leads  to  the  left  to  the  Cartuja  (p.  36). 
To  the  right  is  the  Paseo  del  Espolon  Nuevo  (PI.  E,  F,  4),  which  af- 
fords an  admirable  view  of  the  city.  In  front  of  us  is  the  Calle  de 
San  Pablo,  leading  to  the  Calle  de  la  Calera  (PL  F,  4),  in  which 
are  two  interesting  palaces.  The  Caia  de  Angulo  (No.  27)  has  an 
imposing  facade,  flanked  by  two  towers.  In  the  middle  is  a  large 
doorway,  surmounted  by  a  richly  decorated  window,  and  there  are 
similar  windows  in  each  of  the  lateral  facades.  The  *Cata  de  Mi- 
randa (No.  29),  dating  from  1643,  gives,  even  in  its  present  dilar 

Baeoekeb's  Spain.  3 


34     Route  3.  BURGOS.  Excursions. 

idated  condition,  a  still  better  idea  than  the  Oasa  det  Gordon  of  the 
former  importance  of  the  ancient  noblesse  of  Castile. 

The  Fronts  notable  for  its  simplicity^  is  flanked  by  small  drcnlsr 
towers  with  finials  and  gargoyles  (gdrgoUu).  The  Main  Doorway  is  enclosed 
.  by  Corinthian  columns  and  richly  sculptured.  The  Entrance  HaU  is  con- 
nected by  an  archway  with  an  Ante-Room^  giving  on  the  patio  or  court. 
This  is  surmounted  by  an  octagon  borne  by  four  arches,  and  orer  this  is 
a  dome.  Each  of  the  four  spandrels  is  filled  in  with  a  large  shell.  The 
Patio  is  surrounded  by  eighteen  columns  with  a  kind  of  Corinthian  cap- 
ital, supplemented  by  side-brackets  to  support  the  architrave.  The  columns 
of  the  second  stage  are  similar  but  plainer.  Bound  this  runs  a  charming 
frieze  with  figures,  medallions,  and  coats-of-arms,  and  higher  up  is  a 
second  frieze.  In  the  arms  appears  the  word  *paz\  The  handsome  Portal 
to  the  Staireate  is  enriched  with  sculptured  columns,  armorial  bearings, 
and  friezes  of  amoretii.  -  The  barrel -vaulting  over  the  staircas^e  should 
also  be  noticed.  

ExcuBsioNB.  1.  The  Beal  Honasterio  de  lasHuelgas  lies  about 
11/4  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Burgos  (comp.  p.  32  and  the  inset  on  the 
plan  of  Burgos ;  noon  the  best  hour).  —  The  Buelgas  ('plaisirs*, 
'pleasure-grounds'),  originally  a  summer  chateau  of  the  kings  of 
Castile  fUuelgasdelBcy),  was  converted  by  Alfonso  VIII.  (1187)  into 
a  Cistercian  nunnery  for  noble  ladies  and  endowed  with  enormous 
revenues  and  extraordinary  privileges.  The  Abbess  *por  la  gracia 
de  Dies'  enjoyed,  as  'Sefiora  de  horca  y  cuchiUo\  the  power  of  life 
and  death;  the  nuns,  the  number  of  whom  since  1257  has  been  100, 
are  not  styled  'sores'  ('sisters')  but  'sefioras  dofias'.  Many  royal 
personages  are  buried  here,  including  Alfonso  VIII.  and  his  wife 
Eleanor,  daughter  of  Henry  II.  of  England.  Edward  I.  of  England 
was  knighted  here  by  Alonso  the  Learned.  The  banner  of  the  Almo- 
hades,  captured  at  the  battle  of  Las  Navas  de  Tolosa,  is  preserved  at 
the  convent. 

The  entrance  to  the  convent -enclosure  is  formed  by  the  five-arched 
Porteria,  above  which  rises  a  handsome  Tower.  The  Church  was  built  in 
a  severe  Gothic  style  by  Ferdinand  III.  in  1279.  Men  are  not  allowed  to 
enter  the  nave,  but  may  look  at  it  through  the  iron  screen.  High  mass, 
attended  by  the  nuns,  is  celebrated  every  morning  in  the  Coro  de  las 
Monjae.  The  interesting  Capitta  de  Santiago  contains  a  statue  of  St,  James. 
—  The  Gothic  Cloisters^  built  by  St.  Ferdinand,  contain  some  good  monu- 
ments, but  are  seldom  accessible ;  in  the  ClavstriUo  are  fine  Romanesque 
capitals  and  arches,  —  The  Sala  Capitular^  with  a  vaulted  roof  borne  by 
four  columns,  is  never  shown. 

The  Hospital  del  Eey,  an  institution  for  pilgrims,  Y2  M.  beyond 
Las  Huelgas,  has  a  fine  doorway  and  a  picturesque  patio  in  the 
plateresque  style.    The  church  is  uninteresting. 

Walkers  should  follow  the  left  bank  of  the  Arlanz6n  from  the  Puente  de 
Santa  3Iaria  (p.  27)  to  Las  Huelgas,  and  return  vii  the  Puente  de  Afalatos 
and  the  Paseo  de  los  Cubos  or  the  Pa«eo  de  la  Isla  (p.  32).  This  round, 
which  takes  about  IV4  hr.  on  foot,  may  also  be  made  by  carriage. 

2.  The  Cartoja  deMiraflores»  situated  on  a  bare  hill  2^4  M.  to 
the  N.E.  of  Burgos,  should  be  visited  for  the  sake  of  its  monuments 
(open  on  week-days,  9-11,  12.15-2.30,  and  4-7).  Carriage  about 
op.  —   "Walkers  follow  the  shady  Paseo  de  la  Quinta  (p.  3S)  to 


Examioru.  BURGOS.  3,  Rtmte,    35 

(3/4  M.l  the  FkieHie,  */«  ^'  beyond  which,  near  the  cnfl  of  the  paseo, 
they  take  the  hroad  road  leading  to  the  right  to  (V4M.)  the  rail- 
way. After  crossing  the  track,  they  keep  to  the  left  and  in  *i  mln. 
reach  the  Area  de  la  VUja^  which  formed  the  entrance  to  Henry  III.'s 
deer-park  and  chitean  of  Miraflores.  The  letters  oyer  the  gate  are 
the  initials  of  *  Jesus  Christiu  Redemptor  Bex  Begum'.  About  >/4  M. 
farther  on^  at  the  old  oonyent-farm,  we  take  the  route  to  the  left, 
which  leads  to  (VsM.)  the  >- 

Cartiga,  a  Carthusian  convent  founded  by  King  John  II.  on  the 
site  of  the  royal  ch&teau,  and  rebuilt  in  1464  et  seq.,  after  a  fire, 
by  John  of  Cologne  (p.  27)  and  his  son  Simon.  It  is  still  occupied 
by  about  thirty  monks.  'We  pass  through  a  Portal  into  a  cloistered 
court,  at  the  end  of  which,  to  the  right,  is  the  PorUriaf  where 
visitors  ring  (fee  1  p.). 

The  aisleless  Gothic  *Chubch  is  divided  into  three  parts:  the 
westernmost  for  the  people,  the  middle  one  for  the  lay  monks  (Ugot)^ 
and  the  easternmost  for  the  priests  (iacerdotes).  The  late-Gothic 
'silleria'  in  the  last  section  is  by  Martin  Sanchct  (1488),  and  the 
Renaissance  stalls  in  the  central  section  are  by  Sim<m  de  Butrat  (1568). 
The  large  and  lavishly  gilded  retablo  of  the  high-altar,  with  its 
numerous  statues,  is  by  Gil  de  Siloe  and  Diego  de  la  Cru%  (1486-99). 
In  the  middle  are  a  crucifix  and  a  pelican  feeding  its  young  with 
its  own  blood  (a  symbol  of  the  sacrifice  of  Christ)  j  below  are  kneel- 
ing figures  of  John  11.  and  Isabella  of  Portugal,  his  second  wife. 
In  front  of  the  high-altar  is  the  superb  marhle  ♦♦Monument  of  the 
same  monarchs,  a  masterpiece  of  Qil  de  Siloe  (1489-93),  erected  by 
their  daughter  Isabella  the  Catholic,  who  succeeded  to  the  throne 
through  the  death  of  the  Infante  Alonso.  This  is,  perhaps,  the  finest 
monument  of  its  kind,  perfect  both  in  design  and  execution,  though, 
doubtless,  lacking  the  dignified  simplicity  of  the  royal  tombs  at 
Granada  or  Alcoba^a. 

The  monnmeiit  is  octagonal  (or,  rather,  sixteen-sided)  in  form,  and 
its  general  appearance  is  somewhat  snggestive  of  a  crown.  Bound  the 
sides  are  statnettes  (each  a  masterpiece  in  itselO  under  delicate  canopies, 
sixteen  lions  bearing  escnteheonji,  reliefs  of  i«cenes  from  the  New  Testa- 
ment, and  figures  of  the  cardinal  virtaes.  Round  the  top  is  a  double 
cornice  of  foli^e,  birda,  and  animals.  At  the  four  chief  angles  are  seated 
figures  of  the  Evangelists.  The  recumbent  effigy  of  the  king  has  a  ring 
on  the  right  hand  and  holds  a  sceptre ;  that  of  the  queen  holds  a  prayer 
book.  At  their  heads  are  elaborate  eanopie.«.  At  the  feet  of  the  king  are 
two  lions,  at  those  of  the  queen  a  lion  and  a  dog.  Between  the  figures 
is  a  low  marble  railing. 

Of  scarcely  less  importance  is  the  adjoining  ♦Monument  of  the 
Infante  Alonso  (d.  1470,  at  the  age  of  sixteen),  also  by  Oil  de  Siloe 
(N.  waU). 

Tbis  monument  sfand<<  in  a  recess  exuberanlly  adorned  with  inter- 
lacing foliage,  animals  of  various  kinds,  putti,  figures  of  saints,  lions, 
and  coat«-of-arma.  Within  the  arch  is  the  kneeling  figure  of  the  young 
prince  in  a  richly  embroidered  dress.  Below  are  the  arms  of  Castile  and 
I^n;  above  is  the  Annunciation. 

In  the  chapel  of  St.  Bruno' is  a  ♦Statue  of  this  saint,  by  Man* 

3^ 


36     BouU4  VALLADOLID.  HoUls, 

Pereira  of  Portugal,  formerly  in  the  cathedral ;  bo  lifelike  is  this 
figure  that  Philip  IV.  said  of  it:  *he  does  not  speak,  but  only  because 
he  is  a  Carthusian  mouk\ 

The  Graveyard  and  Cells  of  the  monks  are  interesting,  but  are 
Beldom  shown. 

3.  The  convent  of  San  Pedro  de  Cardefta,  in  a  desolate  valley 
6  M.  beyond  the  Cartuja,  is  well  known  as  the  place  of  burial  of 
the  Gid  and  Ximena.  His  last  will  and  testament  ordained  his 
interment  here:  —     j  san  Fedro  de  Carde»a 

Mando  que  mi  cuerpo  lleven. 
The  convent  was  founded  in  537  by  Queen  Sancha^  mother  of  King 
Theodoric,  and  is  in  a  very  neglected  coudition.  The  monument 
of  the  Cid  and  his  wife,  formerly  in  front  of  the  high-altar,  is  now 
in  a  side-chapel;  it  is  inscribed  with  a  great  number  of  famous 
names,  all  borne  by  descendants  of  the  Cid.  The  bones  of  the  Cid 
and  Ximena  now  rest  in  the  town-hall  of  Burgos  (p.  27).  —  Babieca, 
the  favourite  charger  of  the  Cid,  is  said  to  have  been  buried  near 
the  gateway  of  the  convent. 

4.  Those  who  stay  long  enough  at  Burgos  should  visit  the  convent 
of  Fres  de  Val,  3^/4  M.  to  the  N. ,  on  the  way  to  Santander.  Once 
the  superb  burial-place  of  the  Padillas,  it  is  now  a  breweryj  but  the 
architectural  remains  and  monuments  are  still  full  of  interest. 

4.   YaUadolid. 

BaUway  Stations.  1.  Estacidn  del  Norte  (PI.  A,  B,5),  for  the  N.  Bail- 
way  from  Irun  to  Madrid  (BR.  1  and  6)  aod  for  the  railway  to  Ariza  (p.  18). 
—  2.  Eetaeidn  del  Ferrocarril  a  Medina  de  Rioeeco  (PI.  A,  5),  for  the  branch 
railway  mentioned  at  p.  18. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xx).  ^Fbancia  (PL  a;  B,  4),  Calle  de  Teresa  Gil  23, 
B.  2V2,  L.  3,  D.  31/2,  pens.  8-10  p.^  Siqlo  (PI.  b;  B,  3),  Calle  Dona  Maria 
de  Molina  2.  —  Railway  Rentaurant^  in  the  Estaciun  del  Iforte. 

Post  Office  iCorreo;  PI.  B,  4),  Calle  Mendi^abal.  —  Telegraph  Office 
(PI.  B,  3),  Calle  de  Dona  Maria  de  Molina. 

Tramway  from  the  Estad&n  del  Norte  via  the  Plaza  de  la  ConstitnoitSn 
to  the  Bull  Ring  (PI.  B,  2,  3). 

Theatres.  Teatro  de  Calderon  (PI.  9;  C,  3);  Teatro  de  Lope.  —  Bull 
Bing  (Plaza  de  Torot:  PI.  B,  2,  3),  for  6000  spectators. 

VaUadoUd  (2270  ft.),  Arabic  Belad-Walid  ('town  of  the  gov- 
ernor'), the  seat  of  an  archbishop  and  the  capital  of  the  old  Leonine 
province  of  the  same  name,  lies  in  a  spacious  and  fertile  plain,  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  Pisuerga,  which  is  here  joined  by  the  Canal  of 
Castile  (PI.  A,  1 ;  p.  18)  and  by  the  Esyueva.  The  last  flows  through 
the  town  in  two  arms,  which  are  partly  covered  in.  Pop.  58,9()0. 
In  history  Valladolid  is  famous  as  a  favourite  residence  of  the  sov- 
ereigns of  Castile.  Ferdinand  and  Isabella  were  married  here  in 
1469.  Under  Philip  II.  YaUadolid  was  for  a  time  the  royal  head-quar- 
ters and  the  capital  of  the  great  Spanish  empire  (comp.  pp.  129, 
64).  Its  present  importance  is  derived  from  its  commerce.  —  It  was 
at  Yaliadodid  that  Gil  Bias  practised  medicine  under  Dr.  Sangrado. 


Cafkedral.  YALLADOLTD.  4.  Route.    37 

From  the  Ettaddn  del  Norte  (PI.  A,  B,  5)  the  Aoera  de  Recoletos 
leads  to  the  N.,  passing  (left)  tlie  triangular  ^Oanpo  Oimade  (PI.  A, 
4,  5),  the  finest  park  in  the  city,  to  a  bridge  over  the  Esgneva.  In 
the  Galle  de  Mignel  Isear,  diyerging  to  the  right,  is  the  dilapidated 
Home  of  Cervantes  (PI.  1,  B  4 ;  p.  107),  occupied  by  the  immortal 
Dovelist  from  1603  to  1606.   It  now  belongs  to  the  state. 

The  Calle  de  Santiago,  continuing  the  Acera  de  Recoletos,  leads 
to  the  N.E.  to  the  Plaza  Mayor  or  Ptavi  de  la  ConstitueiOn  (PI.  B,  3 ), 
the  focus  of  the  city's  life,  containing  many  shops  and  the  insigni- 
ficant Oa$a  de  i4yfmtamiento.  —  To  the  £.  of  this  square  lie  the 
Plaza  de  la  ¥uente  Dorada  (PI.  B,  3)  and  the  small  Plasa  del  Ocbavo, 
where  Alvaro  de  Utna  (p.  137)  was  executed  in  1463.  —  A  little 
farther  to  the  £.,  in  the  Plaza  de  Portugalete,  rises  the  — 

Cftthedrml  (PI.  G,  3, 4),  a  strnoture  in  the  late-Renaissance  style, 
begun  hyJuon  de  Herrera  (p.  110)  in  1585  and  afterwards  continued 
by  Churriguera.  According  to  Herrera's  design  the  church  was  to 
consist  of  nave  and  choir,  furnished  with  aisles,  and  separated  by 
a  dome-covered  transept;  both  sides  were  to  be  flanked  with  rows 
of  chapels,  and  there  were  to  be  four  towers  at  the  comers.  The 
building,  however,  remained  a  fragment,  and  the  only  completed 
tower  ( now  being  rebuilt)  fell  in  in  1841.  The  interior  is  402  ft. 
long  and  207  ft.  wide.  The  fine  choir-stalls  are  partly  in  the  Gothic 
style  and  transferred  from  the  old  cathedral,  partly  in  the  Renais- 
sance style  and  designed  by  Herrera  for  the  ohurch  of  San  Pablo 
( p.  38).  Among  the  other  contents  are  two  paintings  by  Xuca  Qior- 
dano  and  the  tomb  of  Count  Pedro  Arh»ure%,  •—  The  sacristy  contains 
the  masterpiece  of  Juan  de  Arphe :  a  solid  silver  ^Gustodia  or  mon- 
strance, in  the  form  of  a  temple,  6^/2  ft.  in  height  and  140  lbs.  in 
weight;  it  is  adorned  with  statuettes  of  Adam  and  Eve  in  the  Gar- 
den of  Eden.  —  Herrera's  original  model  of  the  cathedral  is  preserved 
in  the  muniment-room. 

Immediately  to  the  E.  of  the  cathedral  is  the|Plaza  de  Santa  Maria 
(PI.  G,  3,  4),  containing  the  church  of  *  Santa  Mairia  la  Antiinia 
{ PI.  8),  the  most  interesting  edifice  in  the  city.  It  was  erected  in 
the  12r-13th  cent,  and  has  a  lofty  Romanesque  steeple,  with  a  high- 
pitched  roof  adorned  with  red  and  green  tiles.  The  early-Gothic 
interior  has  a  Coro  Alto  (gallery)  on  the  W.  wall,  imposing  circular 
piers,  and  three  parallel  apses.  The  elaborate  rotable  of  the  high- 
altar  is  by  Juan  de  Jwni  (1556).  On  the  N.  side  of  the  church  are 
the  remains  of  a  Romanesque  cloister. 

The  UniTenity  (PI.  G,  4),  on  the  S.  side  of  the  plaza.  Is  a 
building  of  the  17th  cent.,  with  a  facade  in  the  most  extravagant 
baroque  style,  adorned  with  statues.  The  number  of  students  is 
abont  1000.  The  university  was  founded  at  Palencia  but  transferred 
to  Valladolid  by  Ferdinand  the  Saint ;  it  did  not,  however,  attain 
any  great  importance  till  the  16th  cent.,  after  the  decline  of  the  uni- 
versity of  Salamanca.    The  Library  contains  12,000  vols.,  including 


38    RouUd.  VALLADOLID. 

a  valuable  collection  of  Bibles  in  different  tongues;  among  the 
400  MSS.  is  a  splendid  codex  of  the  Commentary  on  the  Apocalypse 
by  Beatus  (970).  —  A  little  to  the  S.  stands  the  old  — 

Colegio  de  Santa  Gnu,  built  by  Enrique  de  Egai  in  1480-92, 
some  years  earlier  than  his  hospital  of  the  same  name  at  Toledo 
(p.  141).  It  is  a  masterpiece  of  the  plateresijue  style,  with  strong 
traces  of  Gothic  influence.  The  interior  contains  a  Museum  (Pi.  C,  4 ; 
open  daily,  10-2;  catalogue  1  p.),  which  deserves  a  visit  for  its 
collection  of  admirable  sculptures  in  wood  by  Alonao  de  Btrruguete, 
Juan  de  Junij  and  *Qregorio  Hefnanda,  and  for  two  bronze  statues 
by  Pompeo  Leoni,  an  Italian  mastM.  A  new  room,  lighted  from 
above,  contains  the  choir-stalls  from  San  Benito  (p.  89)  and  a  few 
good  paintings  by  modem  Spanish  artists.  The  numerous  older 
works  are  of  little  importance ;  among  them  are  three  sadly  damaged 
paintings  by  Buhem^  from  the  convent  of  Fuensalda&a. 

Hard  by  is  the  Calle  de  Cristobal  Colon  (PI.  C,  D,  4),  No.  7  in 
which,  now  marked  by  an  inscription,  is  the  dilapidated  Casa  de 
Colon  (PI.  2),  where  Christopher  Columbus  died  on  May  2l8t,  1506. 
Farther  on,  to  the  right,  is  the  church  of  La  MagdaUna  (PI.  D,  4), 
a  building  of  1570,  the  facade  of  which,  bearing  a  huge  coat-of-arms, 
is  described  by  Street  as  'the  ne  plus  ultra  of  heraldic  absurdity'. 
Beyond  this  are  the  large  Hospital  General  and  the  attractive  Prado 
de  la  MagdaUna  (PI.  D,  3),  intersected  by  an  arm  of  the  Esgueva. 

Henoe  we  may  proceed  to  theN.W.  through  the  Calle  de  Gondo- 
mar  (PI.  C,  D,  3j  to  the  Plaza  de  San  Benito  el  Viejo,  and  then  to 
the  W.,  through  the  Calle  de  San  Gregorio  (PL  C,  3),  to  the  old  — 

Colegio  de  San  Gregorio  (Pi.  3;  C,  3),  built  in  1488-96,  laid 
waste  by  the  French  in  the  Spanish  War  of  Independence,  and  now 
occupied  as  municipal  offices.  The  magnifloent  late-Gothic  Facade 
Is  lavishly  adorned  with  statues,  coats-of-arms,  and  ornaments.  The 
doorway  is  surmounted  by  a  canopy  which  forms  a  genealogical  tree 
with  the  arms  of  the  'Catholic  Kings'.  The  spacious  Couri  is  sur- 
rounded by  arcades  in  the  plateresque  style;  the  soffits  and  window 
panels  in  the  upper  story  are  an  excellent  example  of  the  exuberant 
wealth  of  this  style,  with  its  echoes  of  the  Moorish  fashion  of  decora- 
tion. The  stately  Staircase  and  the  artesonado  ceiling  of  the  former 
Library  should  also  be  notioed.  —  In  the  same  street,  at  the  corner 
of  the  Plaza  de  San  Pablo  (PI.  C,  2,  3),  stands  the  church  of  — 

San  Pablo  (PI.  7;  C,  3),  founded  in  1276,  remodelled  by  Cardinal 
Juan  Torquemada  in  1463,  partly  modernized  by  the  Cardinal  and 
Duke  of  Lerma  in  the  IZth  cent.,  and  freely  restored  after  its  devas- 
tation by  the  French.  The  late-Gothic  *Fa^adej  rivalling  in  its 
wealth  of  ornamentation  that  of  San  Gregorio,  is  covered  with  panels 
full  of  figures  and  armorial  bearings ;  at  the  top  are  the  arms  of  the 
Duke  of  Lerma.  It  is  flanked  by  two  plain  towers.  The  Cortes  often 
met  in  this  church  during  the  15-16th  centuries. 

The  Falacio  Be&l  (PI.  C,  3j ,   opposite  San  Pablo,  is  an  un- 


PALENOIA.  5,  Route,    39 

inteiestuig  ediilee  of  the  17th  cent. ;  in  the  court  are  some  busts  of 
Roman  emperors,  ascribed  to  BermifutU,  —  We  now  proceed  towards 
the  S.  to  the  chorch  of  San  Martin  (,P1. 6 ;  C,  3),  a  building  of  the 
13th  cent.,  with  a  high  early- Gothlo  steeple ;  ^e  interior  has  been 
modernized.  A  little  to  the  S.  of  this  is  the  church  of  La»  Angusiiaa 
(PI.  4  \  C,  3),  dating  from  1604  and  containing  the  much-admired 
Tirgen  de  los  Cucbillos*,  by  Juan  de  Juni. 

To  the  W.  of  this  point  is  the  CkdU  de  la$  Platerias  (PI.  B,  C,  3), 
with  the  shops  of  numerous  silversmiths,  who,  however,  hardly 
maintain  the  andent  renown  of  the  city  for  works  in  silver.  Grossing 
this  street  and  proceeding  farther  to  the  W.,  we  reach  the  Convento 
dt  San  Benito  (PI.  B,  3),  founded  on  the  site  of  the  Alcazar  in  1389, 
remodelled  by  Juan  de  Aranda  about  1600,  now  used  as  a  barrack 
and  in  «  sad  state  of  neglect.  The  fine  Gothic  church,  with  its 
eylindiieal  piers  and  three  polygonal  apses,  recalls  the  plan  of  Santa 
Maria  la  Antigua  (p.  37). 

To  the  M.W.  of  San  Benito  is  the  pretty  Etpolon  Nueuo  or  Poico 
de  la9  Marerat  (PI.  B,  3,  2),  extending  along  the  Pisuerga  to  the 
PuenU  Mayor  (PI.  B,  2). 

About  7  M.  to  tha  8.W.  of  VaUadolid,  on  the  road  to  Salamanca, 
lies  Simanca$,  the  Roman  SepUmanca^  with  a^caatillo'  in  v\hich  the  arcbives 
of  Spain,  eondating  of  SSmilUon  docomenta  in  about  80,(J00  Megajos'  (p.  897), 
have  been  prewrved  tiuM  the  days  of  Card.  Ximenea.  —  On  the  Douro, 
12  M.  farther  on,  ia  the  old  town  of  TmrdttiUaa^  the  abode  of  Johanna  the 
Had  after  ber  busband'a  deatb,  and  the  seat  of  the  *" Junta  ScuOa',  or  holy 
league,  of  the  Gomuneros  (p.  63). 

5.  From  Tenta  de  Banos  (Madrid)  to  Santander. 

145Vs  M.  Railway  (Ferrocarriles  del  NwrU)  in  7Vs*9  hrs.  (fares  29  p.  70, 
21  p.  05,  11  p.  95  e.)-  f'^om  Madrid  to  Santander,  816  M.,  one  train  {treu 
corriOf  witb  tbrougb-carriagea)  daily  in  lOVs  brs.  (fares  6i  p.  75,  45  p.  15, 
%p.  40  e.).  In  summer  tbe  iren  eorrio  performs  the  journey  in  16  hrs., 
aad  there  ie  also  a  slow  train  {trtn  tnixto)  taking  ^  hrs.  —  Railway 
restaurants  at  Venta  de  Bafiot  and  Eeinoea. 

Venta  de  BoAos^  see  p.  18.  —  The  train  turns  towards  the  N., 
crosses  the  Canal  de  Lagranja^  and  runs  parallel  to  the  river  Carridn 
and  the  Canal  de  CaetUla  (pp.  18,  36),  with  the  hiUs  of  Palencia 
and  Magaz  to  the  left  and  right.  To  the  left  lie  Calabazanos  and 
yiUamuriel  de  Cerrato,  the  latter  with  a  Romano-Gothic  church  of 
the  14th  century. 

10  M.  Paleneia  (^Cfran  Hotel  Continental^  Barrio  Nuevo  14,  an  in- 
different Spanish  house,  pens.  6-7  p.,  omn.  at  the  station ;  Cafe 
Stttso,  Mayor  Principal  89 ;  Poii  and  Telegraph  Office^  Calle  San  Fran- 
dseo ;  Baths  of  Dr.  Fuentes,  Paseo  de  la  Orilla  del  Rio),  the  capital 
of  a  province  and  the  see  of  a  bishop,  is  a  city  of  15,000  inhab.,  situ- 
ated on  tihe  left  bank  of  the  Carrion.  It  was  originally  founded  by 
the  VacwBi,  a  Geltiberian  tribe,  and  was  not  subdued  by  the  Romans 
without  an  obstinate  resistance.  During  the  12th  cent.  Palencia 
wag  the  seat  of  the  Castilian  kings  and  Cortes,  and  several  church 


40    Route  5.  PALENOIA.     From  Venta  de  Bafios 

councils  were  held  here.  In  1520  it  took  part  in  the  Comanero 
rebellion  (p.  63),  and  its  rlgorons  castigation  by  Charles  V.  put 
a  term  to  its  importance. 

From  the  railway-station  we  cross  the  Plaza  de  Leon  and  follow 
the  Calle  de  la  Vireina  and  the  Calle  del  Emperador  to  the  Plaza 
San  Antolfn,  where  the  cathedral  stands. 

The  *Gathbdbal  is  one  of  the  finest  examples  of  the  second  or 
florid  period  of  the  Spanish  pointed  style  (14-16th  cent.),  but  the 
exterior  offers  little  of  interest  except  the  S.  portal  (Puerta  del 
Obispo),  The  interior,  however,  produces  a  singularly  harmonious 
impression,  with  its  slender  clustered  columns,  its  delicately  orna- 
mented windows  and  triforia,  and  the  fine  vaulting  of  the  nave. 
The  retablo  of  the  high-altar  is  adorned  with  rich  sculptures  in  the 
plateresque  style  (1530).  The  custodia,  exhibited  only  on  Corpus 
Ohristi  Day,  is  by  Juan  de  Benavente  (1582).  The  beautiftil  choir 
stalls  date  from  1650.  On  the  outside  of  the  walls  of  the  capilla 
mayor  are  the  tombs  of  the  Abbots  Diego  de  Guevara  (Epistle  side), 
Francisco  Nunez,  and  Rodrigo  Enriquez  (Gospel  side),  all  of  the 
16th  century.  By  the  trascoro  is  a  finely  carved  pulpit,  and  there 
is  a  curious  old  clock  in  the  S.  transept.  In  the  Capilla  de  Santa 
Lucia  is  a  picture  by  Zurbaran,  St  Catharine  praying.  The  Sal  a 
Capitular  contains  some  excellently  preserved  old  Flemish  tapestry 
(tapices)^  representing  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  the  Ascension, 
the  liaising  of  Lazarus,  and  the  Seven  Deadly  Sins.  The  cloisters 
have  been  partially  built  up  and  disfigured.  The  somewhat  fatiguing 
ascent  of  the  tower  (fee  1  p.)  rewards  the  climber  with  a  fine  pano- 
rama of  the  city,  the  hills  of  Oatero  and  San  Juan,  the  river  Cattion, 
and  the  far-stretching  Tierra  de  Campos.  —  Adjoining  the  cathe- 
dral is  the  Hospital  de  San  Antolin^  dating  from  the  12th  century. 

The  parochial  church  of  San  Miguel  (generally  closed),  in  the 
Calle  Mayor.  Antigua,  is  a  Romano-Gothic  building  of  the  13th  cent., 
with  a  massive  tower  erected  for  purposes  of  defence.  In  the  N.  part 
of  the  town  (Plaza  San  Pablo)  is  the  Dominican  church  of  San  Pablo 
(15th  cent.),  with  a  Renaissance  facade,  fine  yaulting  over  the  nave 
and  aisles,  and  some  interesting  tombs,  especially  in  the  capilla 
mayor. 

The  lunatic  asylum  of  San  Jnan  de  Dios  (the  former  Hospicio  de 
San  Lazaro),  to  the  S.E.,  is  said  to  have  been  the  house  of  the  Cid 
(pp.  32,  36).  —  The  Paseos  del  Salon  and  de  los  Frailes,  to  the  S. 
of  the  town,  afford  pleasant  resorts  for  summer-evenings. 

Excursions  (by  omnibus)  may  be  made  to  (3M.)  Fuentes  de  Valdepero^ 
the  castle  of  which  made  a  celebrated  defence  against  the  Comuneros 
(1520),  and  to  the  (22  M.)  picturesquely  situated  CaiTidn  de  los  Condes^  the 
ancestral  seat  of  the  doughty  Counts  of  Carridn ,  whose  prowess  is  cele- 
brated in  the  Chronicle  of  the  Cid.  Here  are  the  Romanesque  church  of 
Santa  Maria  del  Camino  and  the  fine  cloisters  of  the  Benedictine  convent 
of  San  Zoilo  (16th  cent.). 

Beyond  Palencia  the  railway  traverses  the  endless  flats  of  the 
Tierra  de  Campos.  To  the  left  lies  HusiUos,  one  of  the  oldest  abbeys 


ioSantander,  REINOSA.  5.  Aoute.    41 

in  the  kingdom  of  Leon  (12th  cent.).  —  18  M.  Mon%on  de  Campo9^ 
at  the  confluence  of  the  Carrion  and  the  Ucieza,  was  once  a  royal 
residence  but  is  now  an  impoverished  village  with  a  ruined  chateau 
(Palaeio  de  Altamira).  To  the  N.  and  E.  are  barren  heights  crowned 
by  the  ruined  fastnesses  of  Castillo  and  Castillon.  —  We  cro:>s  the 
Ucieza  and  pass  several  unimportant  stations.  To  the  W.  of  (88  M.) 
Cabanas  U  a  medisval  watch-tower,  130  ft.  high  and  with  walls 
13  ft.  thick.    It  now  belongs  to  the  Marquis  Villatorre. 

Beyond  (42  M.)  Osomo  the  train  cro>:se3  the  Abanndea  and 
Espmosa ,  and  then  runs  through  the  fertile  valley  of  the  lloedo. 
48  li.  Espinosa  de  VUlagonxalOy  once  strongly  fortified.  We  then 
ascend  the  ridge  of  San  Cristobal^  crossing  it  at  a  height  of  2825  ft. 
To  the  left  is  Santa  Cruz  de  Boedo,  to  the  right  San  Cristobal.  Wo 
cross  the  Plsuerga,  —  66  M.  Herrera,  on  a  pleasant  hill  to  the 
left,  was  the  scene  of  a  bloody  engagement  vnth  the  Garlists  under 
Merino  and  Balmaseda  (1834). 

The  train  follows  the  left  bank  of  the  Pisuerga.  To  the  right, 
in  the  distance,  are  the  mountain-chains  of  Ono  and  Pancorbo 
(p.  17).  60  M.  Alar  del  Rey,  the  terminus  of  the  Canal  de  Cos- 
tilla (pp.  18, 36).  Well-watered  valleys,  used  both  by  the  industrialist 
and  the  husbandman ,  alternate  with  picturesque  tracts  of  rock. 
Near  (66  M.)  OUtroSy  on  the  heights  of  Villaeacusa^  the  train 
crosses  the  Pisuerga  three  times.  River  and  railway  now  enter  the 
wine-growing  valley  of  the  Cameta  through  the  gorge  of  Cangosto. 

71^2  ^-  Aguiliur  de  Camp^o,  the  Roman  Vellica,  is  a  small 
Untn  with  1500  inhab.,  picturesquely  situated  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Pisuerga.  It  attained  a  high  degree  of  prosperity  in  the  13-1 5th 
<^ent.,  and  the  'Catholic  Kings'  made  it  the  seat  of  a  margrave.  The 
first  to  hold  the  title  was  the  powerful  Fernandez  Manrique,  who 
entertained  Charles  V.  here  in  1517  and  1522.  This  period  is  re- 
called by  the  ruins  of  the  town-walls  and  castle  and  by  the  armorial 
bearings  on  several  old  palaces.  A  visit  may  be  paid  to  the  Roman- 
esque church  of  Santa  Cecilia  and  the  early-pointed  San  Migvel, 
containing  monuments  of  the  12-16th  centuries. 

A  pleasant  ronte  leads  to  the  W.  from  Aguilar  to  the  once  celebrated 
Premonstratensian  convent  of  Scmta  Maria  la  Real.  The  convent  dates 
from  the  11th  cent.,  but  it  has  been  several  times  rebuilt  and  has  lost  many 
of  its  old  columns  and  capitals.  The  cloisters,  as  .<'een  from  the  upper 
areade,  still  form  a  model  of  the  Romanesque  style. 

Near  (75  M.)  QuintanilUt  de  las  Torres  are  some  coal-pits.  — 
78  M.  Mataporquira ,  situated  at  the  foot  of  a  hill  to  the  left,  is 
the  first  place  in  the  province  of  Santander  and  the  junction  of  the 
railway  from  La  Robla  (Leon)  to  Bilbao.  —  Farther  on  we  see  on 
hih.  sides  hilly  districts  broken  up  by  well-tilled  valleys  with  water 
courses  and  roads.  —  84  M.  Pozaznl  (3230  ft.)  is  the  highest  point 
of  the  railway. 

91  M.  Beinosa  (Fonda  Universal ;  Rail,  Restaurant),  with  3000 
inhab.,  lies  in  a  green  valley  watered  by  the  Ebro  and  Hijar.    Iv 


42    BouU5.  SANTANDER.     From  Vmtd  de  Ba^- 

the  neighbourhood  are  many  factories,  mills,  agricultural  establish- 
ments, and  deposits  of  brown  coal.  Pleasant  walks  may  be  taken  to 
the  Vista  Alegre  and  in  the  Paato  de  Uu  Columnas, 

Cervatoi^  about  3  M.  to  the  S.W.  (omnibua),  possesaes  a  curious  early 
medieeval  church  (litb  cent.),  which  is  yearly  becoming  more  dilapidated. 
The  doorway,  capitals,  and  friezes  are  covered  with  rude  sculptures,  many 
of  a  grossly  obscene  character. 

The  train  crosses  the  Ebro,  threads  a  tunnel  S/4  M.  long,  and 
follows  the  course  of  the  Besaya  through  a  fine  mountainous  and 
wooded  district,  forming  the  finest  part  of  the  line.  The  direct 
distance  from  (99  M.)  Pwjitera  and  (111  M.)  Barcena  is  less  than 
2M.,  but  to  accomplish  the  descent  the  railway  has  to  make  a  detour 
of  12M.,  with  seven  sharp  curves  and  eight  tunnels,  passing  Afon- 
tabliz  and  the  Mediaeoncka  Valley,  —  1131/2  M.  MolUdo;  115  M. 
Santa  Cruz;  117  M.  Las  Fraguas;  122  M.  Los  Corrdles,  in  the 
midst  of  the  fertile  Buel  vaUey^  125  M.  Las  Caldas  de  Besaya 
(Gran  Hotel),  a  picturesquely  situated  watering-place  with  fre- 
quented thermal  springs. 

I28V2  M.  Torrelavegaj  founded  by  Garzilaso  de  la  Vega  and 
once  a  fief  of  the  Mendoza  family,  is  now  the  chief  focus  of  the 
iron-mining  of  the  province  of  Santander.  —  133Y2  M.  Benedo ; 
139  M.  Ouamizo;  141  M.  JBo'o,  with  a  good  distant  view  of  the  Bay 
of  Santander. 

145^2  M.  Santander.  —  Kailway  Stations  (on  the  S.W.  side  of  the 
town).  1.  Ettacion  del  Norte^  for  the  railway  to  Madrid;  2.  Estacion  de 
Solares^  for  Bilbao  (Portugalete)  *,  3.  Estacion  del  CantabricOj  for  Torre- 
lavega  and  Cabez6n  de  la  Sal.  —  Gabs  at  the  exits  from  the  stations. 

Hotels,  generally  overcrowded  in  summer.  With  view  of  the  harbour : 
EcBOPA,  Calle  Mendez  Nunez  2;  Continental,  Galle  Mendez  Nunez  1; 
Oban  Hotel  ds  Fbancisca  Gomez,  Muelle  de  Calderdn  11  (telephone  and 
electric  light),  pens.  8-15  p.  —  Less  pretending:  Fonda  Ignacia,  Galle 
Santa  Glara  3;  Las  Dos  Amiqas,  Calle  Bail^n  2.  —  Outside  the  town,  at 
Sardinero :  Gban  Hotel,  Gastilla,  Grak  Hot.  de  Paris.  —  Lodgings  from 
600  to  2000  p.  for  the  season,  according  to  the  situation. 

Oafes-Sestaurants.  Ca/S  Suizo^  Muelle  de  Galderdn*,  C.  Cantabrico, 
Calle  Hernan  Cortes;  C.  Aneora,  Muelle  de  Calder6n,  less  expensive.  — 
Beer  at  La  Crut  Blanca  and  La  Austriaca,  both  in  the  Alameda  Segunda. 

Cabs.    Per  drive  in  the  town  and  to  the  railway-stations  and  baths. 


1-2  pers.  2  p.,  each  addit.  pers.  i  p.  j  per  V«  hr.  2  p.,  per  hr.  4  p.;  trunk 
i  p.,  small  articles  of  luggage  25  c.  It  is  advisable  to  make  a  bargain 
beforehand.   —  The  Small  Boats  for  pleasure-trips  have  no  fixed  tarifl'; 


bargaining  necessary. 

Tramways.  1.  From  the  Muelle  de  Calderdn  via  the  Calles  Atarazanas, 
Becedo,  Burgos,  and  San  Fernando  to  P«fla  Gastillo  (fare  to  the  begin- 
ning of  the  Calle  San  Fernando  10  c,  thence  to  Pena  Castillo  30  c).  2.  From 
the  Calle  del  Murtillo  to  Miranda  (fare  15  c). 

Steam  Tramways.  1.  From  the  Plaza  Nnmancia  by  the  Cuatro  Ca- 
minos,  Fuente  de  la  Salud,  and  Campogiro  to  San  Jvsto  (10-20  c).  — 
2.  From  the  Calle  Hernan.  Cortis  (Arcos  de  D6riga)  to  the  Sardinero  by 
San  Martin  and  La  Magdalena  (10-30  c).  —  3.  From  the  Calle  Daoie  y 
Velarde  to  the  Sardinero  (20-30  c,  return-tickets  40-60  c). 

Steamers  ply  to  Bilbao  twice  weekly,    to    Qijon  and  CoitiHa  two  or 

Post  Office,   Calle  Rubio  2.    —   Telegraph  Office,  Calle  Baile'n  2. 
Theatre,   Calle  Arcillero  27.   —  Basque  Ball  Game,   Calle  de  las  Ani- 


ioSantander.  SANTANDBR.  5,  Route.    43 

mM  i.  —  Bull  Fights  in  the  Plata  de  Torotj  Guatro  Ouninos.  —  Oonearts 
in  summer  at  the  Sardinero  Ciuino  (adm.  generally  2  p.  50  c).  Bands 
play  in  the  Plaza  de  la  Libertad  and  in  the  grounds  of  the  Mnelle  de 
Calder6n,  Ml  p.m. 

Batha.  Calle  Santa  Lucia  i,  open  all  the  year  round)  (kUle  General 
Etpartero  7,  in  summer  only.  —  Sea  Bathing  at  the  Playa  del  Sardinero 
(25  c,  incl.  dress  and  towels  ^  bath  with  warm  sea-water  1  p.  70  c.)  and 
the  Pla^a  de  la  MagdaUna  (60  e.;  with  warm  water  1  p.  26  c.,  with  sul- 
phur 2  p.). 

Physicians.  Dr.  R.  Taylor y  Calle  San  Francisco  17  \  Dr.  R.  de  la  Yega^ 
Calle  Heman  Cort<5s  6;  Dr.  E.  de  Oyarhide,  Calle  Daoiz  y  Velarde  16.  — 
Dentists.  C.  MacConachy  (American),  Huelle  de  Calder<}n  34;  Dr.  Benet^ 
Muelle  de  Calderdn  14.  —  Sraggist,  Dr.  HonkMon^  Calle  Heman  Corti^s  2. 

Biitish  Consul,  Winter  W.  Single,  Plaza  de  Velarde  16. 

Clubs.  Circulo  de  Reereo,  Clvb  de  Regatas^  both  on  the  Muelle  de 
Calderdn;  Casino  del  Sardinero,  at  the  Sardinero. 

Beolcseller:  L.  QuHerrez^  Calle  de  San  Francisco  3a  —  Photographs: 
P.  Urtasun,  Plaza  Vieja  4. 

Banks.  Borneo  de  JSspaHa  (branch-ofliee  of  the  Bank  of  Spain),  Calle 
de  Velasco  3^  Banco  de  Santander^  Calle  Wad-Baa  1.  —  Koney  Changer, 
Muelle  de  Calderon  4. 

Santander,  the  capital  of  a  province  originally  belonging  to  Old 
Castile,  the  see  of  a  bishop,  one  of  the  most  important  seaports  on 
the  N.  coast  of  Spain,  and  also  a  fashionable  watering-place,  is 
charmingly  situated  on  the  sheltered  bay  of  its  own  name,  enclosed 
by  picturesque  hills.  Pop.  40,000.  The  climate  is  mild,  but  damp 
and  changeable.  Santander  ia  divided  into  an  upper  or  old,  and  a 
lower  or  new  town.  The  latter  consists  of  handsome  parallel  streets 
and  fine  squares,  some  of  which  axe  beautified  with  pleasure 
grounds.  On  the  S.  it  la  bordered  by  the  Muelle  de  Calderdn,  a 
wide  quay  extending  from  the  custom-house  to  the  suburb  of  Mai- 
nedo.  The  closely  built  old  town  begins  at  the  old  castle  of  San 
Felipe  J  is  bordered  on  the  £.  by  the  Calle  AUa,  and  reaches  on  the 
S.W.  to  the  quay  of  MaUano. 

The  chief  centres  of  life  and  traffic  are  the  handsome  Plaza 
Velarde,  with  a  monument  to  Velarde,  a  native  of  Santander  and 
one  of  the  heroes  of  the  ^Dos  de  Mayo^  (p.  64) ;  the  busy  CalleJ 
Atarazanas  and  San  Francisco ;  the  gardens  of  the  Muelle  de  Cal- 
deron, with  an  unimpeded  and  extensive  view  of  the  Pefia  Cabarga 
and  the  ranges  of  Solares,  Valnera,  and  Tornos ;  and,  finally,  the 
MuBUiB  BB  Caldbb6k,  or  mole  itself,  with  the  custom-house,  maga- 
zines, warehouses,  and  wharves,  and  an  arm  projecting  far  into  the 
harbour.  At  the  MaUano  Quay  lie  the  vessels  embarking  the  iron 
ores  from  the  mines  of  Camargo  and  Puente  Arco ;  the  loading  is 
carried  on  mainly  by  women.  A  monument  here  marks  the  spot 
where  about  300  men  lost  their  lives  on  Nov.  3rd,  1893,  through 
the  blowing  up  of  the  steamer  *Machichaco',  laden  with  dynamit« 
and  iron  rails. 

The  Cathedeal,  in  the  old  town,  a  Gothic  edifice  of  the 
13th  cent.,  is  somewhat  heavy-looking  and  has  been  disfigured  by 
restoration.    The  tower  rises  over  an  open  chamber  with  pointed 


44     Routed.  SANTANDER. 

vanlting.  The  high-altar  enshrines  the  remains  of  the  martyrs  Eme- 
terinus  and  Celedonius,  the  patron-saints  of  Santander.  The  font, 
with  an  Arabic  inscription,  once  formed  part  of  .a  fountain.  The 
Crypt  (del  Crista  de  Abajo)  is  interesting. 

The  remaining  churches  are  nearly  alt  modern  and  uninteresting, 
like  the  many  philanthropic  and  other  institutions. 

Walks.  The  Alameda  is  pleasantly  shaded  with  tr^es.  The  Alameda 
Segunda  is  the  scene  of  the  annual  fair  (ft'ria).  It  is  continued  by  the 
Alameda  Alta^  which  follows  the  crest  of  the  hills  bordering  the  bay  and 
leads  to  the  suburb  of  Miranda^  passing  numerous  villas  and  gardens, 
the  Atalaya  or  signal-tower,  and  the  dilapidated  Fort  Lopez  Ba^os.  —  The 
Camino  del  Sardiniro  leads  to  the  E.  beyond  Miranda  to  the  Capilla  de 
los  Martirety  founded  by  fishermen  and  sailors,  and  on  to  the  bathing-places 
(fine  views  of  sea  and  coast).  —  About  20  M.  to  the  W.  of  Santander  (nearest 
rail,  station,  Torrelavega,  p.  42)  is  8antt'llana  del  Mar,  the  birthplace  of 
Gil  Bias. 

Excursions.  We  may  follow  the  coast  to  the  E.  to  the  lighthouse  on 
the  Punta  del  Puerto  (Gattillo  de  la  Cerda)  and  the  adjacent  figoalling 
station  (Semdfovo).  —  To  the  N.  we  may  drive  to  Cabo  Mayor,  with  a 
lighthouse  and  the  Puente  Forado,  a  natural  limestone  bridge  of  consider- 
able dimensions.  —  To  the  E.,  outside  the  bay,  lies  the  island  of  Movro, 
with  its  lighthouse,  a  pleasant  point  for  a  sail. 

Railway-excursions  may  be  made  to  (12  M.)  the  pleasantly  situated 
thermal  baths  of  Solare*  (Hot.  La  Pepina;  4  trains  daily  in  35min.,  fares 
1  p.  t5,  1  p.  25,  75  c.)  and  to  (5V2  M. ;  4  trains  daily  in  20  roin.,  fares  PC, 
50,  30  c.)  Aitillero  (La  Gren  Via),  on  the  S.  side  of  the  Bay  of  Santander, 
once  famous  for  its  ship-building  and  now  the  port  of  embarkaticn  for  the 
ores  mined  in  the  district  of  Cabargo. 

There  are  several  sulphur-baths  in  the  wooded  valleys  of  the  neigh- 
bouring irountains,  the  chief  of  which  are  those  of  Ontaneda  (76*  Fahr.) 
and  Alceda  (81°).  They  are  reached  by  train  to  Eenedo  (p.  42)  and  carriage 
thence  (3-4  p.  for  ea.h  pers.). 

The  Railway  fbom  Santandek  to  Cab£zon  de  la  Sal,  at  present  of 
importance  for  the  adjacent  iron  mines  only,  w^ill  become  of  more  general 
interest  when  it  is  prolonged  to  Infiesto  and  so  affords  direct  communi- 
cation with  Oviedo  and  Gijon. 

Fbou  Santander  to  Bilbao,  72  M.,  railway  (two  trains  daily)  in  4  hrs. 
(fares  12,  8,  6  p.).  This  railway  is  one  of  the  most  picturesque  in  Spain, 
especially  its  second  half,  beyond  Gibaja.  The  train  (starling  at  the  Esta- 
cion  de  Solares)  skirts  the  W.  side  of  the  Bay  of  Santander,  with  the 
Pena  Cabarga  and  the  hills  of  Solares  to  the  left.  Beyond  (672  M.)  Astil- 
lero  (see  above)  we  cross  the  Ria  de  San  Salvador  and  skirt  the  base  of 
the  Pefia  Cabarga.  9  M.  Heras,  at  the  head  of  the  Bay  of  Santander.  To 
the  right  we  have  a  distant  view  of  the  mountains  of  Solares  and  Torre- 
lav  ega  (p.  42).  Farther  on  we  cross  the  Ria  Tijero,  pass  (13  M.)  Orejo, 
the  junction  of  a  line  to  Solares,  and  cross  the  Niera  and  Santo  Tomdt. 
17  M,  Villaverde  de  Pontones;  19  M.  Hoz  de  Anero ;  21 V2  M.  Beronga,  on 
the  Rio  Solorzano;  25>/3  M.  Qama.  On  both  sides  stretch  extensive  t'elds 
of  maize.  To  the  left  rises  the  fine  Pena  de  Santona,  at  the  foot  of  which, 
in  a  charming  situation,  is  the  refuge-harbour  of  Santcfia.  —  31  M.  Treto, 
with  steamboat  communication  with  Santona.  The  train  cros'-es  the  Ria 
Carrasa  and  runs  past  the  pleasantly  situated  Limptiat  to  (30,^ k  M.)  Jfarron, 
whence  it  ascends  along  the  Rio  Ason  to  (35  M.)  Udalla  and  (37'/«  M.)  Gibdiia. 

The  train  and  the  Rio  Carranza  (frequently  crossed)  now  enter  a 
highly  picturesque  ravine  42  M.  Molinar;  43  M,  Carranza,  a  sulphur 
bath  in  the  province  of  Vizcaya.  A  little  farther  on  is  the  Tunel  de  la 
Eserita,  penetrating  the  crest  of  the  Fresnedo  Mts.  50  M.  Villaverde 
''«   Trucios;  f!&  "A.  Arcentalet.    Numerous  tunnels.     59  M.  ^rangrwren,   the 

"-tion    of    the  railway    from   Bilbao  to    La  Robla  (Leon).     We  pass 


If 


if?  )^K^-mfy 


AVILA.  6.  Route,    45 

through  a  fine  mountainoiis  district,  skirting  the  Rio  Cadagtka,  60  H. 
GileKes;  63  V.  Sodupe;  66  H.  Im  Ciiandra.  At  (66V2  M.)  Zaramillo  begins 
the  mining  district  of  Bilbao.  —  69V2  M.  Zorroza  is  the  junction  of  the 
railway  from  Bilbao  to  Portugalete  (carriages  changed).  To  the  left  we 
have  a  fine  view  of  the  river  Nervi6n^  the  suburb  of  Olavtaguy  and  the 
mountains  of  Durango. 

72  M.  Bilbao  (Estacidn  de  Portugalete),  see  p.  21. 

6.  From  Medina  del  Campo  to  Madrid  vi&  Avila, 
Eicorial,  and  Villalba. 


124  v.  Railway  in  6-8Ys  hr5t.  (one  express  and  two  ordinary  traiii.s 
daily:  fares  28  p.,  17  p.  25,  10  p.  35  c.).  The  ''Train  de  Lux*"  mentioned 
at  p.  8  makes  the  trip  in  5  hrs.  (Tues.  A  Sat.;  in  the  reverse  dirMiiun 
on  Thurs.  A  Sun.).    There  is  a  railway-reiitaurant  at  Avila. 

Medina  del  Campo,  see  p.  19.  —  As  far  as  Sancliidri&n  the 
railway  follows  the  old  highroad  between  Gallcia  and  Madrid.  To 
the  right,  in  the  distance,  lies  Madrigal^  the  birthplace  of  Isabella 
the  Catholic.  —  51/2  M.  G6mt%  Narro,  We  ascend  towards  the  long 
range  of  monntains  which,  under  the  names  of  Sitrra  de  Ouadarrama 
and  Sierra  de  GredoSj  separates  Old  and  New  Castile  (comp.  p.  5). 
The  peaks  of  the  former  come  into  sight  in  the  left  foreground. 

11  M.  AtaquineSy  surrounded  by  its  seven  hills,  is  the  last  station 
in  the  province  of  Yalladolid.  The  train  crosses  a  four-arched  bridge, 
396  ft.  long,  spanning  the  Adaja  (p.  46),  which  here  receives  the 
ArevaliUo;  both  rivers  rise  in  Uie  Sierra  de  Aaila. 

22  M.  Arivalo  (2710  ft.),  an  old  town  (3600  inhab.)  in  the 
province  of  Avila,  lies  1  M.  to  the  W.  of  the  railway,  on  a  delta 
formed  by  the  two  just-mentioned  rivers.  It  was  formerly  one  of 
the  keys  of  Castile  (comp.  p.  51).  * 

The  line  ascends  near  the  right  bank  of  the  Adaja,  affording  a 
view  of  the  mountains  of  Segovia  (p.  120)  to  the  left  and  of  the 
Sierra  de  Avila  to  the  right.  29  M.  Adanero ;  34  M.  SancJddridn 
(3065  ft.) ;  38  M.  Velayoa ;  46  M.  MingorrCa ,  an  ancient  Basque 
colony  in  a  hiUy  district  strewn  with  erratic  boulders.  Numerous 
evergreen  oaks.  We  then  traverse  an  arid  and  desolate  region,  en- 
livened only  by  a  few  cattle  and  occasional  migratory  flocks  of  sheep 
(comp.  p.  444).  —  54  M.  Avila, 

Avila.  —  The  Bailway  Station  (Restaurant)  lies  about  '/s  M.  to  the 
E,  of,  and  somewhat  below,  the  town.  Omnibuses^  but  rarely  cabs,  meet 
the  trains. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xx).  Fonda  del  Ingl^.s  (PI.  a;  C,  2),  opposite  the  W. 
fafade  of  the  cathedral,  in  the  Spanish  style,  mediocre,  pe;i3.  7V2,  omn. 
1  p.  5  Ndevo  Hotel  del  Jabdin  (PI.  b;  C,  D*,  2,  3),  to  the  E.  of  the  cathedral, 
also  unpretending.  —  Cafi*  Zonetti  and  Suizo^  both  in  the  Mercado  Grande. 

Post  Office  (Correo;  PI.  D,  3),  on  the  S.  side  of  the  Mercado  Grande. 

Chief  Attraetiona  (one  day).  3an  Vicente  (p.  49);  Cathedral  (p.  46); 
Scm  Pedro  (p.  47);  Santo  Tomdt  (p.  48). 

Avila  (3655  ft.),  the  capital  of  a  province  and  the  see  of  a  bishop, 
is  finely  situated  on  a  flat-topped  ridge ,  three  sides  of  which  are 


48     Route  e,  AVILA.  From  Medina  d.  C. 

Santo  Tomis  (PI.  E,  4),  founded  by  the  ^Catholic  Kings' 
in  1482.  From  the  fore- court  vre  pass  through  a  doorway  adorned 
-with  statues  into  the  late-Gothic  Ghubch,  a  singular  building, 
destitute  of  aisles  but  with  a  transept  and  two  rows  of  lateral  chapels. 
There  is  a  'coro  alto'  on  the  W.  wall ,  and  the  high-altar  is  in  a 
corresponding  gallery,  supported  by  a  flat  arch,  on  the  E.  wall.  The 
*Retablo  of  the  high -altar,  a  masterpiece  of  the  early  Spanish. 
school,  is  by  the  so-called  Master  of  the  8t.  Tkomcu'8  Altar  (p.  74). 
In  the  middle  is  St.  Thomas  Aquinas,  surrounded  by  eight  angels ; 
to  the  right  and  left  are  four  scenes  from  the  life  of  the  saint;  below 
are  the  four  Latin  Fathers  of  the  Church.  The  centre  of  the  transept 
is  occupied  by  the  magnificent  marble  ^Monument  of  Prince  John 
(d.  1497),  only  son  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  by  the  Florentine 
Domenico  FaneelU.  The  beautiful  figure  of  the  young  prince  lies  on 
a  sarcophagus  adorned  with  much-mutilated  reliefs  and  ornaments. 
Ill  the  third  chapel  on  theN.  side  is  the  similar  *Monument  of  Juan 
de  Avila  and  Juana  Velazquez  (1604),  also  ascribed  to  Dom,  Fan- 
celli.  The  figures  of  the  deceased  are  attended  by  a  page  bearing  a 
helmet,  a  frequent  addition  to  tombs  of  this  period. 

On  leaving  St.  Thomas's,  the  visitor  is  advised  to  walk  round 
the  old  town  in  order  to  examine  the  *City  Walls,  which  were 
erected  in  1090-99.  The  Oarrera  de  Santo  Tomas  and  the  Galle  de 
San  Crist6bal  lead  to  the  N.W.  for  about  1/2  M.  through  the  Barrio 
de  las  Vacas  (PI.  D,  4),  beyond  which  we  ascend  to  (V4  M.)  the 
Puerta  del  Bastro  (PI.  B,  C,  3).  In  front  of  this  gate  is  the  Pasta 
del  RastrOj  commanding  a  fine  mountain-view. 

Keeping  to  the  W.,  we  reach  the  Puerta  de  Santa  Teresa  (PI. 
B,  3)  in  3  min.  more.  Just  Inside  this'  gate,  in  a  small  plaza,  is 
the  Convento  de  Santa  Teresa  (PL  B,  3),  with  a  church  in  the  style 
of  Herrera,  erected  on  the  site  of  the  house  in  which  the  saint  was 
bom  (1615-82).  The  W.  side  of  the  plaza  is  occupied  by  the  Casa 
del  Duque  de  la  Roca,  an  edifice  of  the  16th  cent,  with  a  facade 
adorned  with  columns. 

From  the  Puerta  de  Santa  Teresa  a  broad  road  descends  in  a 
wide  sweep  to  the  W.  gate  of  the  city,  the  Puerta  del  Puente  (PL 
A,  2),  by  which  the  road  to  Salamanca  leaves  Avila.  We  follow 
the  latter  road,  which  crosses  the  Adaja  just  below  the  gate  by  a 
new  bridge  (to  the  left,  below,  the  old  bridge,  with  its  five  arches). 
By  ascending  for  a  little  on  the  opposite  bank,  we  reach  a  Stone 
Cross y  affording  a  fine  view  of  Avila  and  its  many-towered  wall. 

From  the  Puerta  del  Pueute  we  may  now  return  to  the  cathedral, 
via  the  Calle  San  Esttfban  (with  the  church  of  San  Esteban,  PI.  B,  2 ), 
the  Calle  de  la  Rua  (with  the  Palacio  del  Conde  de  Polentinos,  now 
a  military  school;  PI.  B,  2),  and  the  Plaza  Mayor  (PL  C,  2).  Or 
we  may  proceed  to  the  N.,  outside  the  wall,  to  (2  min.)  the  Roman- 
esque  church  of  — 

San  Segnndo  (PL  A,  1 ;  key  kept  at  the  adjoining  cottage,  30> 


to  Madrid.  AVILA.  6.  RouU.     49 

50  e.),  a  small  Btrnetnre  with  a  fine  Romanesque  doorway,  situated 
on  tlie  bank  of  the  river.  The  interior,  almost  square  in  shape,  is 
divided  into  nave  and  aisles  by  granite  columns  and  ends  in  three 
semicircular  apses.  The  wooden  ceiling  and  the  capitals  of  the 
columns  are  interesting.  To  the  right  of  the  main  apse  is  the  tomb 
of  San  Segondo,  Bishop  of  Avila,  with  a  lineeling  figure  of  the  saint, 
ascribed  to  Serruguete, 

We  then  skirt  the  N.  wall  of  the  city,  passing  (left)  the  small 
Brmlta  de  San  Martin  (PI.  B,  C,  1),  till  we  reach  the  high-lying 
church  of  — 

*8an  Vicente  (PI.  D,  2 ;  sacristan ,  Galle  de  Valseca  9),  the 
finest  Romanesque  edifice  in  Avila,  probably  begun  in  the  12th, 
though  not  completed  tiU  the  15th  century.  The  fine  W.  facade  is 
flanked  by  two  towers,  between  which  is  a  lofty  open  porch,  with  a 
splendid  Romanesque  double  doorway  (13th  cent.),  with  elaborate 
but  much  mutilated  sculptures.  The  S.  tower,  with  its  modern  re- 
storations, is  unfinished;  the  large  N.  bell-tower  dates  ftom  the  12- 
15th  eentories.  —  Along  the  S.  side  of  the  church  runs  a  kind  of 
granite  cloister  or  corridor,  contrasting  strangely  with  the  sandstone 
of  which  the  church  itself  is  built.  Within  this  is  the  comparatively 
simple  S.  doorway,  forming  the  usual  entrance  to  the  church. 

The  interior  (at  present  undergoing  restoration)  resembles  San 
Pedro  (p.  47)  in  its  ground-plan  and  is  180  ft  in  length.  The  nave,  ~ 
with  its  triforium  and  clerestory,  is  in  a  pure  Romanesque  style.  The 
transept,  choir,  and  three  semicircular  apses  are  in  the  Transition 
style.  The  transepts  are  roofed  with  barrel- vaulting.  On  the  E. 
side  of  the  octagonal  lantern  is  a  painted  wooden  Relief  of  the  Graoi- 
fixion,  with  the  Virgin  and  St.  John  (14th  cent).  Below  the  lantern 
is  the  Tomb  of  8t.  Vinemt  and  his  sisters  ^SliSf.  Sabina  and  CriaUta^ 
(consisting  of  a  sarcophagus  of  the  13th  cent.,  with  numerous  notable 
reliefs,  surmounted  by  a  canopy  of  1465,  resting  upon  coupled 
eolumns.  —  A  staircase  at  the  end  of  the  N.  aisle  descends  to  the 
i&odemized  Crypt^  containing  the  rock  on  which,  acoordinj;  to  the 
legend,  St.  Vincent  and  his  sisters  suffered  martyrdom  (303). 

Below  San  Vicente,  to  the  N.,  is  the  church  of  San  Andria  (PI. 
I>,  1),  another  late-Romanesque  edifice  of  the  12-1 3th  centuries. 

Railwat  to  FliMaranda  and  Salmnancaj  see  p.  471. 


Beyond  Avila  the  train  turns  at  right  angles  towards  the  E.  The 
i^eit  part  of  the  railway,  abounding  in  tunnels  and  viaducts,  was 
tlie  most  difficult  to  construct.  It  traverses  a  bleak  and  almost 
uninhabited  mountain  -  district ,  intersected  by  deep  valleys.  In 
winter  the  whole  is  often  under  snow.  After  threading  five  short 
tnnnels,  the  train  reaches  the  Tunnel  of  Ckinada  (1040  yds.  long), 
which  penetrates  ike  Puerto  de  Avila,  or  saddle  between,  the  Sierra 
de  Malagifn  on  the  E.  and  the  Paramera  de  Avila  on  the  S.W.,  two 
f»nges  that  form  the  connecting  link  between  the  Sierra  de  Guadar- 

BASDBKBX'i  Spain.  4 


50     Boute6,  VILLALBA. 

ram  a  and  the  Siena  de  Gredos.  The  highest  point  of  tiie  line 
(4500  ft.),  -which  is  also  the  highest  point  yet  reached  hy  any  Spanish 
railway,  is  at  the  entrance  to  the  tunnel.  —  We  then  descend  to 
(671/2  M.)  La  Canada. 

The  line  now  descends  rapidly  and  circuitously  towards  the  S.E., 
along  the  steep  flank  of  the  Sierra  de  Malag6u.  We  oross  several 
small  feeders  of  the  Alberche^  which  carries  its  waters  to  the  Tagiis. 
To  the  right  we  enjoy  a  fine  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Alherohe,  with 
the  small  town  of  CebreroSj  embosomed  in  vineyards  and  oUve 
groves;  to  the  S.,  in  the  extreme  distance,  rise  the  mountains  of 
Toledo.  —  73  M.,Navalperal  (4166  ft.). 

The  train  traverses  extensive  forests  of  ilex  and  pine.  761/2  M. 
Las  Navas  del  MarqueSj  with  an  old  palace  of  the  Duke  of  Medina- 
CeU,  who  owns  large  estates  in  this  neighbourhood.  The  line 
sweeps  in  a  bold  curve  towards  the  S.  Several  torrents  are  crossed 
and  nine  tunnels  threaded.  —  88  M.  Bobledo  (3310  ft.),  the  station 
for  Robledo  de  Chavela^  a  small  town  in  the  province  of  Madrid^  3  M. 
to  the  £.  The  parish-churoh  contains  a  famous  rotable  by  Antonio 
del  Rincon  (ca.  1446-1500).  —  The  train  turns  to  the  N.E.  and 
passes  through  a  tunnel.   92  M.  EBCorial  (3030  ft.),  see  p.  109. 

Beyond  Escorial  we  enter  the  defile  of  Navalqriejigo,  and  beyond 
(981/2  M.)  La«  Zorreras  we  cross  the  Quadarrama, 

100  M.  Yillalba,  in  a  wide  valley  enclosed  by  the  S.  foot-hills  of 
the  Guadarrama  Mts.,  is  the  junction  of  the  railway  to  Medina  del 
Campo  viH  Segovia  (R.  7 ;  carriages  changed). 

Our  line  turns  to  the  S.E.  and  descends  the  valley  of  the  Gua- 
darrama, through  a  solitary,  rocky  region,  overgrown  with  cistus  and 
scrub-oak.  —  105  M.  Torrelodones.  Beyond  some  cuttings  and  a 
tunnel  is  (110  M.)  Las  Matas, 

The  train  enters  the  plain  of  New  Castile,  a  monotonous  steppe, 
interrupted  here  and  there  by  vineyards  or  corn-fields.  113  M.  Las 
Rozas,  To  the  left,  in  the  distance,  is  the  chllteau  of  El  Pardo 
(p.  108),  on  the  Manzanares.  —  117  M.  El  Piantio. 

119  m.  FozuelOj  a  smiling  oasis  among  oak-  and  pine-clad  hills, 
with  numerous  villas  of  the  Madrilenos.  —  To  the  left  we  have  a 
fine  retrospect  of  the  Guadarrama  Mts.  We  cross  the  Manzanares. 
On  the  hill  to  the  left  is  the  Cuartel  de  la  Montafia(p.  101),  beyond 
which  is  the  Royal  Palace. 

124  M.  Madrid  (p.  53 ;  Estaci6n  del  Norte). 

7*   From  Medina  del  Campo  to  Madrid  yi&  Segovia 
and  Villalba. 

121  H.  Railway  (one  express  and  two  ordinary  trains  daily)  in 
61/4*71/2  hts.  (fares  22  p.  d5,  16  p.  80,  10  p.  10  c).  Bailway-restaarants  at 
Medina  del  Campo  and  Segovia,  —  TheVart  of  the  railway  between  Segovia 
and  Villalba  (40  M.,  but  less  than  2CrM.  as  the  crow  flies)  is  remarkable 
ifor  its  bold  aad  skilful  engineering.  —  A  pleasant  Walk  may  be  taken 


OLMEDO.  7.  Route.    5t 

from  Etpinar  (p.  53)  vill  tbe  Puerto  de  Qitadarrama  (p.  62)  to  (13  H.) 
Quadarrama.  —  DaiVB  fTom  Segovia  or  La  Qranja  (p.  120)  to  Btcorial^ 
comp.  p.  117. 

Medina  del  Campo^  see  p.  19.  —  As  far  as  Coca  tbe  train  runs 
through  a  bleak,  thinly  populated  district,  tbe  nature  of  which  Is 
suggested  in  the  name  of  the  first  station  (6 M.)  QaUinas-La-Zana 
('thorn-bush'). 

131/2  M.  Olmado,  an  old  town  with  2300  inhab.,  lies  on  the 
highroad  from  Yalladolid  to  Madrid,  Just  before  it  quits  the  province 
of  Valladolid.  It  formerly  contained  many  convents,  and  was 
strongly  fortified  as  the  seat  of  several  families  of  distinction. 
^Quien  de  CcutiUa  nenor  pretenda  set,  d  Olmedo  y  Arivalo  de  su  parte 
ha  de  tener^  was  a  popular  saying  which  asserted  'that  he  who 
aspired  to  be  lord  of  Castile,  must  have  Olmedo  and  Arevalo 
(p.  45)  on  his  side*. 

The  train  turns  to  the  S.E.,  enters  the  Castilian  province  of 
Segovia,  and  crosses  the  unfinished  Irrigation  -  works  of  the  Canal 
it  QutiUa  (pp.  18,  36),  which  it  was  Intended  to  continue  as  far 
as  Segovia.   Several  poor  villages  are  passed. 

23  M.  Coca,  a  small  town,  surrounded  by  pleasant  woods,  lies 
in  a  delta  formed  by  the  Eresma  and  its  tributary  the  Voltoya.  The 
ancient  Cauca  was  the  capital  of  the  Vaccasi,  an  Iberian  tribe,  and 
in  B.  C.  151  was  captured  by  the  Roman  consul  Lucius  LucuUus, 
who  massacred  the  inhabitants  and  carried  off  a  vast  amount  of 
plunder.  In  the  middle  ages  it  played  a  part  of  some  importance 
as  the  seat  of  the  Fonseca  family,  whose  Qothic  ^CaHle,  built  in 
the  15th  cent,  and  defended  by  moats  and  towers,  still  stands  in 
partial  preservation  at  the  confluence  of  the  Eresma  and  the  Voltoya. 
The  church  of  Santa  Maria  contains  four  handsome  ttenaissance 
tombs  of  the  Fonsecas  [1500 ;  Italian  workmanship).  The  Arco  de  la 
y\Ua,  the  main  gate  of  the  former  town-walls,  is  also  interesting. 
The  train  now  crosses  the  Voltoya  and  ascends  on  its  right  bank. 
28  M.  Nava  de  la  A8unei6n^  with  extensive  vineyards.  To  the 
nght  is  a  wood  named  the  Pin&r  de  Nieva,  35  M.  Ortigoaa^Santa 
Maria~de-Nieva,  two  towns  well  known  for  their  woollen  manu- 
factures.   Santa  Maria  was  the  seat  of  the  Cortes  of  1473. 

The  scenery  becomes  more  hilly.  381/2  M.  Armufia,  We  next 
cross  the  Eresma  aud  ascend  on  its  right  bank  to  (4272^0  Yanguas 
and  (46  M.)  Ahusfn.  The  train  then  returns  to  the  left  bank  of  the 
river,  and  beyond  (50  M.)  Ontanarea  crosses  the  Terogordo.  To  the 
left,  on  a  long  ridge,  lies  the  picturesque  city  of  Segovia,  dominated 
by  the  Alcazar  and  the  cathedral. 

58  M.  Segovia,  see  p.  117.  Excursion  thence  to  La  Qranja, 
see  p.  120. 

Beyond  Segovia  the  line  ascends  at  first  towards  the  N.W.  over 
the  N.  spurs  of  the  Gnadarrama  Mts.,  and  crosses  the  Hontoria, 
Riofrio,  and  Rio  Pecet. 

4* 


5  2     Route  8.  MADRID.  Railway  Stationi. 

64  M.   La  Lom-Navas-de-Riofrio.    In  the  vicinity  are  laif 
granite  quarries,  which  afford  the  material  for  the  street-paving/*'   ;^ 
Madrid ;  also  the  Palacio  de  Riofrio,  built  amid  the  woods  by  Ij 
bella  Farnese  (p.  121),  and  containing  a  large  picture-gallery^' I- 
70  M.  Otero  de  Herrerot. 

Farther  on  we  cross  the  Moros  and  proceed  through  deep  cuttf . ., 
and  by  a  wide  curve  to  (75  M.)  Espinatj  where  the  railway  real  i  | 
the  old  highroad  from  Galicia  over  the  Quadarrama  Pass.       I 

The  High  Road  to  Gaadarrama,  a  portion  of  the  old  road  from  Ga 
to  Madrid,  ascends  from  Espinar  viS,  the  Venta  de  San  Rafael^  whej 
crosses  the  road  from  Avila  (p.  45)  to  Segovia,  to  the  ridge  of  the  9 
de  Quadarrama.  At  the  top  of  the  Puerto  de  Quadarrama  (6150  ft.h 
stone  lion,  commemorating  the  construction  of  this  mountain-roufl 
Ferdinand  VI.  (1479).  The  road  then  descends,  soon  affording  a  8pl4 
view  of  the  plain  of  New  Castile  lying  far  below,  to  (12  H.)  Quadati 
(see  below). 

The  line  penetrates  the  mountains  by  the  Guada/rrama  Tuj^ 
(4380  ft.),  13/5  M.  long,  below  the  Puerto  (see  above).  ^ 

On  emerging  from  the  tunnel,  we  have  a  surprising  view  to  t 
left  of  the  wide  plain  of  Castile.  The  train  threads  another  shoi^ 
tunnel  and  descends  rapidly  to  (85  M.)  Cercedilla  (3785  ft.).  Three 
more  tunnels.  88  M.  Los  Molinos-Quadarrama^  where  the  above- 
mentioned  road  over  the  Guadarrama  Pass  crosses  the  road  from 
Escorial  to  La  Granja  (p.  120). 

91  M.  CoUado  Mediano,  near  the  important  quarries  of  Berrocdl 
(*piedra  berroquefia').  —  The  train  crosses  the  road  to  Galioia  and 
the  Guadarrama. 

97  M.  Villalba,  and  thence  to  (121  M.)  Madnd,  see  p.  50. 


a  I  U  <S  V  VV 


if  ^r 


fM      13' 


53 


8.    Madrid,  t 


Arrival  and  Departure.  Hotels,  Fentions,  Lodginga,  Rastanraiits, 
and  Oafte. 
Sailway  Btations.  1.  EHaHdn  del  JTorte  (PI.  C,  0,  7^  restaurant),  for 
:X  and  N.W.  lines  vii  Medina  del  Campo.  —  2.  Eataeidn  d«  lag  Delieitu 
1,  Hll:  resUurant),  for  the  railway  to  Lisbon  vi&  Valencia  de  Al- 
Jara.—  3.  E*taci<in  dtl  Mediodia  or  de  Atocha  (PI.  H,  9,  lO;  restaurant), 
[all  the  other  lines.  —  The  Eetaeidn  de  Arganda  (PI.  II ;  L,  8),  for  the 
^-gauge  railway  to  Vfcdlvaro  and  Arganda,  and  the  Eitaeidn  de  VUia 
tdo  (PI.  C,  0),  for  the  line  to  Navalcani^ro  and  Villa  del  Prado,  are 
.    importance  to  the  stranger. 

,The  Omhibuskb  of  the  larger  hotels  meet  the  chief  trains.  —  One  or 

persons,  with  a  small  quantity  of  luggage,  may  conveniently  use  a 

(eoehe  de  pvtUo),  Fare  1  p.   (from  the  Delicias   station  IVt  p.)i    each 

*- 1  p.,   each  handbag  00  c,  gratuity  90-60  o.    If  the  cab  has  to  be 

lly  summoned  from  its  stand  outside  the  station,  the  tariff  by  time 

into  operation ;  first  hr.  3  p.,  each  V4  hr.  addit.  60  e. ;   luggage  as 

(comp.  p.  66).  >-  A  party  of  8-6  persons  should  take  one  of  the 

Railway  Omhtbusks  CSerticio  especial  de  Im  camtnoe  de  kierro*  or 

10  de  loe/erroeatilee").    Fare  for  1-6  pers.  with  320  lbs.  of  baggage 

bom  the  DeliciM  station  6  p.  (between  midnight  and  6  a.  m.  6  or  7p.)^ 

'  -1  p.  —  In  every  ease,  however,  it  is  advisable  not  to  rely  merely 

\  taritr,  but  to  eome  to  a  distinct  understanding  with  the  driver. 

who  have  not  yet  selected  their  hotel  or  lodging  may  leave  their 

dimenta  at  the  railway-station  and  drive  into  the  city  by  one  of  the 

I  OmriBDS  OnrsBAi.88  (see  below).    The  private  omnibuses  (^servicio 

'  >')  should  be  carefully  avoided. 

lailway  Ofleea  {DespaeKoe  Oniralee;  comp.  p.  xvi).  1.  Puerta  del 
for  the  Estaei<Sn  del  Kortei  3.  Calle  de  AlcaU  7,  for  the  Estaei6n 
Delicias;  8.  Calle  de  Alcali  14-16,  for  the  EstacicSn  del  Mediodia. 
lOmnibtu  Oenerdl  usually  leaves  these  offices  about  1  hr.  before  the 
ture  of  the  trains  (fare  60>60  c,  each  trunk  35-60  c).  The  small 
oy  Omnibueet  (see  above)  may  be  ordered  here ,  to  pick  up  at  the 
Uer'6  hotel  or  lodging.  —  Office  of  the  International  Sleeping  Courage 
PCompagnie  Internationale  des  wagons-Hts  et  des  grands  express  euro- 
«1,  Calle  AlcaU  18.  —  Ceok"*  Tourist  Office^  Carrera  San  Jer6nimo  5. 
'Hotels  (comp.  p.  zx  and  PI.  II,  p.  65;  most  of  them  with  lifts  and 
electric  light ;  in  spring,  rooms  should  be  ordered  in  advance).  *Hotbl  db 
LA  Paz  (PI.  a;  F,  7),  Puerta  del  Sol  11;  *Hot.  db  Paris  (PI.  b;  F,  7) 
Paetta  del  Sol,  with  entrance  at  Calle  de  Alcaic  3,  two  fashionable  and 
expensive  houses  in  a  somewhat  noisy  situation;  Hot.  DBt  Universo, 
Puerta  del  Sol  14;  •Hot.  db  Roka  (PI.  c;  G,  7),  <3alle  del  Caballero  de 
Gracia  23;  Hot.  db  Rcsia  (PI.  d;  G,  8),  Carrera  San  Jertfnimo  34,  with 
restaurant.  These  five  of  the  first  class ;  pens,  from  12V2,  in  rooms  to- 
wards the  street  from  26  p.  —  Somewhat  less  pretentious:  •Hot.  de 
Embajadorbs  (PI.  e;  F,  7),  Calle  Victoria  1,  at  the  corner  of  the  Carrara 
San  Jer6nimo ;  •Hot.  iNGLfis  (PI.  f ;  G,  8),  in  the  narrow  Calle  Echegarai 


t  In  the  references  to  the  Plaks  in  the  text,  PI.  I  refers  to  the  adjoining 
eeneral  plan,  PI.  n  to  the  plan  of  the  centre  of  the  city  (p.  65).  Where 
neither  I  nor  II  is  specified,  the  reference  is  to  both  plans.  —  The  focu.s 
of  the  traffic  is  the  Puerta  del  Sol  (PI.  F,  7,  8).  The  streets  are  called 
«a«e»,  the  longer  streets  earriras  or  eorrediras;  a  narrow  street  or  lane 
>^  termed  callejdn ;  travesia  is  a  short  connecting  alley ;  ewsta  means  a 
descending  street,  edstamiUa  a  descending  lane,  bajada^  a  descent;  pretil 
is  a  lane  on  a  slope,  with  houses  on  one  side  and  a  parapet  on  the  other ; 
portal  is  a  large  entrance-way,  portiUo  or  postigo  a  small  one;  campillo  is 
K  deserted  square  or  open  space;  jardiniUo  is  a  square  laid  out  as  a 
garden;  puerta  is  a  gate;  ronda^  a  street  forming  a  circle;  pasio  is  a 
promenade  or  boulevard. 


54     Routes.  MADRID.  Cafis. 

(No.  10),  with  an  excellent  restaurant.  Pens,  at  these  two  from  12V8  p-  — 
Plainer  houses:  Hot.  Santa  Gsuz  (PI.  g^  G,  8),  Garrera  San  Jerdnimo, 
with  restaurant,  well  situated,  !/«  ^*  ^^^^  ^^le  Prado  Museum;  Obibntb 
(PI.  h^  F,  7),  Calle  del  Arenal  4;  Pekinsdlar  (PI.  li  B,  8),  Call©  Mayor  43, 
with  restaurant,  commercial;  Cuatbo  Kazionbs  (PI.  k;  £,  7),  Calle  del 
Arenal  19  and  21,  satisfactory  for  modest  requirements.  Pens,  at  these 
houses  from  8,  in  rooms  towards  the  street  from  10,  R.  from  2V2  p.  -^  The 
First  Breakfatt  (desayiino)  is  generally  charged  »/4-lVa  P-  extra.  Travellers 
should  personally  announce  their  intended  depariure  in  the  hotel-office, 
either  the  night  hefore  or  early  in  the  morning. 

Penaions  ((7<m(m  de  JSuispedet;  comp.  p.  xx)  are  numerous.  Among 
the  heat  known  are  the  *Botel  de  8ev%lla^  Calle  AlcaU  83-35,  and  those 
of  Francitco  Jjomiely  Calle  AlcaU  17  (2nd  floor),  pleasantly  situated ;  Vicente 
Romero^  Calle  AlcaU  17  duplicado  (2nd  floor) ;  Bruno  Euiz,  Calle  Alcala  17 
triplicado  (Ist  floor);  Luis  Begueiro^  Calle  Mayor  12  (2nd  floor) ;  ^intonto 
Barreira,  Calle  Mayor  18  (2nd  floor);  Jo$i  Arena* ^  Calle  del  Arenti  16 
(2nd  floor).  The  usual  charge  for  full  pension,  including  the  first  breakfast, 
is  from  8  p.  upwards.  Tahle^wine,  light,  and  service  are  sometimes  extras. 

Famished  Booms  are  difficult  to  procure  in  a  good  situation  near  the 
centre  of  the  city.  The  charge  for  a  well-furnished  room,  with  an  alcove 
for  the  bed,,  is  about  75-150  p«  a  month,  with  a  fee  of  6-7Vs  p.  for  attend- 
ance. A  white  paper  ticket  at  the  er^  of  a  balcony  indicates  furnished 
rooms  to  let;  in  the  middle  of  a  balcony,  unfurnished  rooms.  —  Jn  making 
the  contract  it  is  desirable  to  have  the  aid  of  someone  acquainted  with 
the  local  usages ;  it  is  not  safe  to  trust  to  outward  appearances.  The  price 
asked  may  often  be  lowered  by  judicious  bargaining. 

Beatauranta  (comp.  p.  xxi;  most  frequented  for  the  Almuerzo^  11-1, 
and  for  the  ComWa,  after  6  p.m.).  ^Lhardy.  Carrera  de  San  Jerdnimo,  d^j, 
from  10,  D.  from  127*  P-  i  C<^^  <*<  Fornos  (see  below),  Calle  de  AlcaU  19. 
groundfloor  (not  to  be  confounded  with  the  Bestaurant  de  Fornos,  with 
its  ^chambres  s^par^es%  on  the  first  floor);  '^Cafi  IngliSy  Calle  de  Sevilla  6  ' 
(1st  floor);  Bufite  Jtaliano^  Carrera  San  Jerdnimo  32,  frequented  by  for- 
eigners, moderate  but  not  too  clean ;  restaurants  in  the  hotels  Rtuia^  IngUe^ 
Santa  CruZy  and  Peninsular  (see  p.  53  and  above).  Persons  not  staying  in 
the  house  are  also  admitted  to  the  meals  at  any  of  the  other  hotels;  previous 
enquiry  as  to  price  advisable  and  customary. 

Cafes  (comp.  p.  xzii ;  some  of  them  very  tastefully  fitted  up).  Cafi 
Fornos^  Calle  AlcaU  19;  "C^i  de  Madrid.  AlcaU  10;  ^Cafi  Suixo,  Alcala  36; 
Cafi  Inglii^  Calle  de  Sevilla  d.  The  caf^s  in  the  Puerta  del  Sol  are  frequented 
by  politicians,  unemployed  officials  (cesdntes)^  touts  for  gaming  rooms,  and 
^confidence  men".  —  At  many  caf^s  music  (piano  and  violin)  is  provided 
free  of  charge  in  the  evening.  Among  these  are  the  Ca/6  del  Siglo^  Calle 
Haydr  18;  Cqfi  Levante,  Calle  del  Arenal  15.  —  Those  cafes  in  which,  at  an 
advanced  hour  of  the  evening,  the  so-called  ^Flamenco*  8<mgs  and  Dances 
(p.  889)  are  given  should  be  avoided  by  ladies  and  visited  by  gentlemen 
only  in  company  with  a  native  friend. 

Confectioners  (Conjiterias).  Cafi  de  Viena^  Calle  AlcaU  42;  La  Mdllor- 
guina^  Puerta  del  Sol  8,  and  many  others.  —  Ladies"  Cafi  in  the  Cafi  Suizo 
(see  above),  with  special  entrance  at  the  corner  of  the  Calle  de  Sevilla. 

Hprohaterias  (see  p.  xxiij  are  numerous  in  the  warm  season,  especially 
in  the  Calle  Alcala,  Calle  Maydr,  and  Carrera  San  Jer6nimo.  Good  Vermouih 
di  Torino  and  other  bitters  are  obtained  in  the  Cafi  de  Viena  (see  above). 

Beer  Houses,  with  beer  on  draught,  do  not  exist  in  Madrid,  but  bottled 
beer  (cerveza)  may  be  obtained  at  all  hotels,  restaurant*^,  caf^s,  and  hor- 
chaterfas.  The  best  native  beers  are  Mdhou  (especial)^  Princeea^  and  Santa 
Barbara.  The  foreign  malt  liquors  include  English  Ale  and  Stout^  and  Bre- 
meny  Dortmund^  Rotterdam^  and  Bavarian  Beer  (bottled  Munich  beer  in  the 
Cafi  Iberia^  Carrera  de  San  Jeronimo  31).  Beer  is,  however,  better  avoided 
in  the  hot  season  (see  p.  xxii). 

Tobacco  (comp.  p.  xxiii)  may  be  procured  .  at  Calle  del  Arenal  1  and 
-'umerous  other  ^Estancos'*.    Savannah  Cigars  at  Puerta  del  Sol  14,  Calle  de 
Till  a  2,  and  elsewhere. 


Trcanufays.  MADRID.  8,  Route.    55 

b.  MamiM  of  TniuportfttioB. 

Cabs  (Cochet  d€  punto^  SinUhta)  stand  in  all  tbe  great  plazna  and  in 
the  busier  streets.  A  small  tablet  bearing  the  words  ^se  alqnUa*  (4s  to 
hire')  indicates  that  the  rebide  is  not  engaged.  Tariff  (day  and  night): 
for  1-2  pers.  per  drive  (earrira)  in  the  first  lone  (el  primer  hrw'U)  1  p.,  in 
the  second  zone  3  p..,  in  the  third  zone  3  p. ;  hj  time  (d  hora)  in  all  zones. 
1st  hr.  2  p.,  each  addit.  1/4  br.  60  e.  If  the  cab  is  dismissed  in  the  third 
zone,  the  driver  is  also  entitled  to  a  retam-ftire  of  2  p.  For  each  pers. 
above  two,  50  e.  extra  in  each  ease^  for  two-horse  cabs  t  p.  extra.  —  Kach 
article  of  luggage  60  c,  large  trunk  1  p.  —  Special  Fares.  To  tbe  DeUciat 
BtaHon  (p.  63)  iVs  p.  \  to  the  Plata  de  Torot  (o.  86)  on  ^Corrida^  days 
IVsp.;  to  tbe  Canal  on  Ash  Wednesday  (p.  6S)  2VsP'>  ^o  ^^^  Hipddvomo 
(p.  92)  on  race-days  IVsp*)  ^  ^^^  Pradtra  de  San  hidro  during  the  May 
Festival  (p.  60)  2<yip.;  to  tbe  Cementerio  del  Bate  4  p. 

CarziagM  may  be  hired  of  M.  Olica.  Galle  Don  Martfn  67  and  Calle 
de  la  Qnintana  14,  or  of  Bornilla^  Prs6o  de  la  Castellan i  10.  Fare  per  day 
about  25  p.,  per  month  860-600  p. 

Tramways  (TranHaa ;  fare  6-26  c).  Xost  of  tbe  lines  start  from  or  cross 
the  Pnerta  del  80I  (Pi.  F,  7,  8).    The  following  are  the  most  important. 

I.  Trahvia  dk  Hadkid. 

a.  From  the  Pueria  del  Sol  (E.  side)  r\i  tbe  Galle  de  AlcaU,  Plasa 
de  Madrid  (PI.  II;  H,  7),  Paseo  de  Recoletos,  Plaza  de  Colon  (PI,  11^  H, 
6),  and  Paseo  de  la  Castellana  to  the  Bipddromo  (PL  I ;  H,  1).  The  name 
board  (UMilla)  is  inscribed  Puerta  del  Sol,  Castellana,  Hip6dromo. 

b.  From  the  Pueria  del  Soi  (B.  side)  rii  the  Plasa  da  Hadrid  (PI.  II; 
H,  7),  Paseo  de  Bacoletos,  Calle  de  Villanneva,  and  Calle  de  Serrano 
(PI.  T,  6>4)  to  the  Calle  de  Maldanado  (PI.  I;  I,  4).  Kame-board:  Pnerta 
del  Sol  y  Barrio  de  Salamanca. 

e.  From  the  Pueria  del  Sol  (8.  side)  vift  the  Calle  Hayor,  Plaza  de 
Oriente  (PI-  II  i  ^i  t)y  Plaza  de  San  Marcial  (PI.  11;  E,  6),  and  Calle  deFerrir. 
to  the  CaUe  del  Dvque  de  Urquijo  (PI.  I ;  C,  D,  6).  Kame :  PaerU  del  Sol 
y  Barrio  de  Argiielles. 

d.  From  the  CaUe  del  Dvque  de  Urquijo  (PI.  I;  C,  D,  5}  vi&  tbe  Glorieta 
de  San  Bernardo  (PI.  I ;  F,  6),  Olorieta  de  Bilbao  (PI.  I,  2;  F,6),  Plaza  de 
Alonso  Kartinec  (PI.  I;  O,  0),  and  Plaza  de  Colon  (PI.  II;  H,  6)  to  the  Eetiro 
(PI.  II;  I,  7).     Name:  Puerto  del  Sol,  Barrio  de  Argiielles  y  Betiro. 

e.  From  tbe  Puerta  del  Sol  (S.  side)  by  the  Calle  Mnyor,  Plasa  de 
Oriente  (PI.  IT;  E,  7),  Plaza  de  San  Marcial  (PI.  II;  E,  6),  Calle  de  Ferrdz, 
and  Calle  de  la  Princesa  to  the  Plata  de  la  Jutiieia  (PI.  I;  C,  4).  Kame: 
Pnerta  del  Sol  y  Barrio  de  Pozas. 

II.  TBAmriA  DEL  NOKTE. 

a.  Circular  line  from  the  Puerta  del  Sol  (S.  side)  by  the  Calle  de  la 
Montera,  CaUe  de  Hortaleza,  Plara  de  Alonso  Martinez  (PI.  I;  0, 6;  branch- 
line  to  Calle  del  Cisne),  Plaza  de  la  Iglesia  (PI.  1,1;  G,  3),  Glorieta  de 
Qnevedo  (PI.  I7  F.  4),  Glorieta  de  Bilbao  (PI.  T,3;  F,  6),  Calle  de  la  Fuen- 
carrdl,  and  Calle  de  la  Montera  back  to  the  Puerto  del  Sol.  Kame:  Cbamberf 
por  Hortoleza,  or  Chamber(  por  Fuencarrdll. 

b.  From  tbe  Olorieta  de  Quevedo  (PI.  I ;  F,  4)  by  tbe  Calle  de  Bravo 
Morillo  to  tbe  Olorieta  Cuatro  Caminos  (PI.  I;  F,  1).  Kame:  Cnatro  Ca- 
njjnos  y  Glorieta  de  Quevedo. 

III.  Tbaitvia  del  Este. 

a.  From  tbe  Puerta  del  Sol  (E.  side)  vift  the  Plazas  de  Madrid  (PI.  II ; 
H,  7),  de  la  Independencia  (PI.  H,  I,  7),  and  de  Toros  (PI. I;  L,  6)  to  tbe 
Ventas  del  Etpiritu  Santo  (PI.  I  j  M,  4,  6).  Kame:  Pnerta  del  Sol  y  Ventas. 
For  the  bnll-figbi<9  (p.  57)  extra-cars  are  pnt  on,  labelled  *Totos*  (fare  60  c). 

b.  Prom  the  Plata  de  Madrid  (PI.  IT,  H7;  8.W.  corner)  by  tbe  Paseo 
del  Pndo,  the  Bstoddn  del  Mediodfa  (PI.  H,  9, 10),  and  Bonda  de  Atocha 
to  the  Oalle  de  Embajadoret  (PI.  II;  F,  10).   Kame:  Emb^adores  y  Cibeles. 

TV.  Tkaitvia  de  Estaciokbs  t  Mbrcados. 

a.  From  the  Piterta  del  Sol  (S.  side)  by  tbe  Calle  de  Carretas,  Calle 
de  Atocha,  Bstaoidn  del  Mediodfa  (PI.  H,  9, 10),  and  Paseo  de  Atooba  to 
the  OalU  del  Paeifieo  (PI.  K,  10).    Kame :  Pacifico-Olorieta-de-Qnevedo. 


56    Route  8.  MADRID.  Conaulatea. 

b.  From  the  Puerto  del  Sol  (N.  side)  via  the  Calle  de  Preciados,  Plaza 
de  Santo  Domingo  (PI.  II;  B,  7),  and  Calle  de  San  Bernardo  to  the  ITo- 
ticiado  (PI.  II*,  £,  9).  Some  cars  go  on  to  the  Olorieta  d«  Quevedo  (PI.  I; 
F,  4).    Name  same  as  the  last. 

c.  From  the  Puerto  dil  Sol  (N.  side)  by  the  Calle  de  Preciados,  Plaza 
de  Santo  Domingo  (PI.  II ;  £,  7),  Calle  de  Leganftos,  Plaza  de  San  Marcial 
(PI.  11;  E,  6),  Paseo  de  San  Vicente  (PI.  11;  D,  7),  Estacidn  del  Norte 
(PI.  C,  6,  7),  Qlorieta  de  San  Antonio,  and  Pasdo  de  la  Florida  to  the  Botn- 
&T«a  (to  the  N.W.  of  PI.  I;  A,  3).    Name:  Puerta  del  Sol  y  BombiUa. 

d.  From  the  Puerto  del  Sol  (8.  side)  by  the  Calle  de  Carretas  and  Calle 
Imperial  to  the  Plata  de  la  Cebada  (PI.  II ;  E,  9).  Some  cars  go  on  to  the  Plaza 
de  San  Francisco  (PI,  II;  D,  9).  Name:  Puerta  del  Sol  y  Plaza  de  la  Cebada. 

y.  Tbanvia  db  Leqakes. 

From  the  Puerto  del  Sol  (S.  side)  by  the  Plaza  Mayor  (PI.  E,  F,  8), 
Calle  de  Toledo,  Puerta  de  Toledo  (PI.  E,  10),  and  Carabanchel  to  Legan4e. 
Name :  Hadrid-Carabanchel-Legan^s. 

c.  Post,  Telegraph,  and  Police  Offices. 

Poet  Office  (eomp.  p.  xviii).  Corrio  Central  (PI.  F,  8),  or  general  post 
office,  Calle  de  Carre*as  10;  branch-offices  (Bttqfitat  de  Correo)^  Paseo  de 
Becoletos  14,  Calle  de  Trafalgar  10,  Calle  Mendisdbal  6,  CaUe  Don  Pedro  8, 
and  Calle  de  Atocha  126.  —  Foreign  Letters  must  be  posted  at  the  naain 
office  (in  the  box  marked  ^extratnero')  before  6  p.m.,  at  the  branch-oflices 
and  tobacconists  by  4.30,  5,  or  6.30  p.m.  At  the  main  office  they  may  be 
posted  up  to  7  p.m.  in  a  special  ^buzdn  de  alcance'',  if  a  &c.  stamp  be  added 
to  the  ordinary  postage.  —  Registration  of  Foreign  Letters  not  later  than 
6  p.m.  at  the  main  office  or  4  p.m.  at  the  branch-offices.  —  foreign  Money 
Orders  are  issued  up  to  4  p.m.  —  Paste  Rettanie  Letters  (^cartas  en  lista')  are 
distributed  at  the  main  office,  9-5.  —  Foreign  Parcels  must  be  handed  in  at 
the  Despacho  Central  of   the  N.  Railway,  Puerta  del  Sol  9. 

Telegraph  Office  (comp.  p.  xix),  Calle  del  Correo  3  (PI.  II ;  F,  8) ;  branch 
offices  at  the  above-mentioned  postal  sub-offices  and  at  Calle  Juan  de 
Hena  3. 

Telephones.    Chief  Call  Office,  Calle  de  Alcali  14-16. 

Head  Police  Office  (Gobiemo  Civil  i  PI.  II,  £8),  Calle  Mayor  83. 

d.  Embaaeies.    Conaulatea.    Phyeiciane.    Hospitals.    Baths.    Clubs. 
•    Beligioue  Services. 

British  Ambaasador,  SirH.  Drvmmond  Wolffs  G.  C.  M.  G.,  Calle  de  To- 
rija  9.  —  United  States  Minister,  General  Steward  L.  Woodford^  Plaza  de 
San  Martin  5. 

British  Consul,  Herbert  Harrison^  Calle  de  Torija  9.  —  United  Statea 
Consul,  Ignaeio  Figueroa  Hernandety  Plaza  de  San  Martin  6. 

Physicians.  Br.  R,  M.  Fenn^  Calle  de  Quintana  26 ;  Dr.  Kispert,  physi- 
cian to  the  British  Embassy,  Arco  de  Santa  Maria  41  cuadr. ;  Dr.  Dussac^ 
Calle  Caballeros  de  Gr^cia  8;  Dr.  Robert^  Calle  de  Peligros  1  duplicado ; 
Dr.  CortezOy  Calle  del  Sacramento  6;  Dr.  Rivera^  Calle  de  Atocha  133. 

Dentists.  A.  Darlington,  Calle  de  Peligros  14-16;  E.Highland,  Calle  de 
Serrano  6;  H.  Heddy,  Calle  de  AlcaU  88-35. 

Chemists.  R.  A.  Coipel,  Calle  de  Barquillo  1 ;  J.  B.  BaSiares.  Calle  de 
San  Bernardo  15.  —  Mineral  Waters :  /.  M.  Moreno,  Calle  Mayor  73. 

Hospitals.  None  are  good;  the  best  is  the  Hospital  de  la  Princeta, 
Paseo  de  Areneros  1  (application  should  be  made  to  the  Midico  de  Oudr- 
dia).  —  Ambulance  Stations  (Casas  de  Socorro),  Plaza  de  la  Constitucidn  3, 
Calle  de  la  Reina  35,  Costanilla  de  los  Angeles  1,  Costanilla  de  los  Desam- 
parados  15,  Calle  del  Fi&ear  8,  Plaza  de  Cbamberi  7,  Calle  del  Doctor 
JUata  1,  Meson  de  Paredes  46,  Honda  de  Atocha  22,  Carrara  de  San  Fran- 
cisco 17,  Calle  del  Pez  24,  Calle  de  Claudio  Coello  13,  and  Plaza  de  Afligidos. 

Baths  iCasas  dsBcMos;  generally  poor  and  dirty).  Bafios  Arabes^  Calle 
de  Velasquez  21;  El  Hidgara,  Paseo  de  San  Vicente  14,  with  swiniming 
bath,  douches,  mineral  and  vaponr  baths,  etc.    Fee  to  attendant  20-25  c. 


Theatres,  MADRID.  8,  RouU.     57 

Otebs.  CaHnd  de  Madrid,  Calle  de  AleaU  18,  well  fitted  up;  Jfiuvo 
0M,  Calle  de  AlcAli  49.  Temporary  foreign  members  admitted  tor  a  fee 
of  9^90  p.  a  month.  -^  Aimec  CimHJieo  y  JAterari0,  Calle  del  Prado  21, 
with  a  good  library,  for  scientific  and  literary  men.  —  Frmch  Ca$tno, 
Calle  del  Principe  14 ;  Germemia  CMby  Calle  de  PaaU^jos  1 ;  Otrman  GjmuuuUe 
CM,  Calle  del  Prado  10  (entrance-fee  2  p.,  monthly  subscription  3  p.)'  — 
Soeiedad  de  Cata  (Hunt  Club);  El  Vdcz  Club  (Jockey  Chtb),  AlcaU  15.  — 
iDtrodnction  .by  a  member  requisite  in  each  ca<)e. 

CharitaUe  ImatitatioB  for  Foreincra.  Hwm  for  EngUsk  tmd  Oemum 
0<wmei$e$,  Calle  de  Diego  de  Le6n  S. 

Ingliah  Olnireb,  Calle  de  Leganitos  4  (PI.  11^  E,  6);  service  on  San.  at 
11  a.Di.j  chaplain.  Rn.  R.  H.  Whereat^  Calle  de  Torija  9.  —  Spcmiih  Pro- 
taUmi  Churchy  Calle  Beneficiencia  18  (11  a.m.  t  BUhop  Cabrera).  —  Oerman 
Prote$Umi  Church,  Calle  Ventara  de  la  Vega  (10.30  a.m.;  Fatt&r  F.  FKedner, 
Calle  Almadena  3). 

e.  Baaka,  Sliopa,  ete. 

Banks.  Uuim  Bank  of  Spain  and  En^tand,  Calle  do  Sevilla  7\  Cridii 
Ljfomiaig,  Puerta  del  Sol  10-,  Voael  A  Co.,  8al6n  del  Prado  12 {  Cook  S  Son, 
Carrera  de  San  Jerdnimo  5.  —  Hosey  Ohangert  (Cambio).  Cridtt  Lfonnai*, 
see  above}  also  at  Carrera  de  San  Jerdnimo  3. 

BookMllen  (lAbrtrias).  Homo  y  FOeeel,  Calle  de  AlcaU  6;  Baiay- 
Bafttiire,  Plaza  de  Santa  Ana  10;  Fernando  Fi,  Carrera  de  San  Jerdnimo2; 
MwrUlo,  Calle  de  AlcaU  7.  Moot  of  the  booksellers  keep  Spanish  and 
French  books  only,  and  seldom  know  much  of  any  but  ttie  most  recent 
publications.  —  Music:  Zozaya,  Carrera  de  San  Jeronimo. 

Vrwapapera  (comp.  p.  xzii).  Impareial  (best  supplied  with  foreign  tele* 
grams);  Liberal  (democratic);  Epoca  (conservative);  Correepondeneia  dt  E»' 
p<Aa  (official);  Don  Quijote,  illustrated  comic  Journal  (democratic).  The 
Ottteta  de  Madrid,  founded  in  1661,  is  the  oldest  newspaper  in  Spain. 

Pboidgraphs  U  the  above-mentioned  bookshops;  Bautery  Menet,  Calle 
de  Ballesta  30. 

Shops.  Mantillas:  OarcichLabiano  Ctballoi  y  Miranda,  Plaza  de  Santa 
Crax  1  and  7.  —  Fans:  Serra,  Calle  del  Caballero  de  Gracia  16.  —  Manilla 
Shawls  ('Mantdnes  de  Manila):  Grande,  Calle  de  Postas  16-19.  —  Gloves 
and  Underwear:  Magddlena,  Tejada,  Calle  del  Aren^l  16  and 4-7.  —  Tailor 
(for  ladies  and  gentlemen):  Jeim,  Carrera  de  San  Jerdnimo  16.  —  Shoe 
Makers:  Vega,  Calle  del  ArenalT;  Sintdn,  Puerta  del  Sol  9;  Cayatte,  Calle 
de  Alcali  38.  —  Perfumes :  Per/umeria  Ingleea^  Carrera  de  San  Jeronimo  3. 
—  Watch  Maker:  Maurer,  Calle  de  Sevilla  12.  —  Travelling  Requisites: 
Piter,  Calle  del  Arenil  12.  —  Universal  Providers :  Bazar  de  la  Union,  Calle 
Mayor  1 ;  Btuar  X,  Calle  Carretas  16-17. 

Commiaaion  Agents  (for  commissions  of  every  kind  in  Madrid,  Spain, 
and  foreign  parts,  for  sending  letters  and  parcels  in  Madrid,  etc.,  with 
ielephone):  Continental  Exprese,  Carrera  San  Jerdnimo  15;  Madrid  Poetdl, 
Calle  de  AlcaU  2.  —  Goods  Agent  ( Comieionieta) :  L.  Garrouete,  Calle  de 
Alcali  3.  —  Strangers  are  not  advised  to  use  the  Porters  (Mozos  de  Cordel), 
recognizable  by  their  porter^s  knot. 

f.  Theatres  and  other  Plaees  of  Amusement. 
Theatres  (comp.  p.  xzvi;  season  from  mid-October  to  the  end  of  March), 
*Tkatko  BsiL  (PI.  £,  7),  Plaza  de  Oriente  6,  for  Italian  opera,  opened  in 
I860  and  accommodating  2400  spectators.  Prices:  box  (pako)  36-150  p., 
besides  the  *entrada'  of  li/s  p.  for  each  pers.;  stall  (buiaca)  14-19  p.,  delantera 
^e  palco  7-9  p.  Evening-dress  is  worn  in  the  boxes,  black  coats  in  the 
"taUs.  —  The  following  theatres  are  much  cheaper:  Tkatbo  Espa^ol 
(PI.  n ;  G,  8),  Calle  del  Principe  29-31,  built  in  1806  and  rebuilt  in  1849, 
for  high-clasa  drama  and  comedy;  TsaTxo  db  la  CokCdia  (PI.  II;  G,  8), 
CSaUe  del  Principe  14,  erected  in  1875  (on  the  drop-scene  the  'Temple  of 
Immortality'  by  Joei  Valh/oy,  Teaxbo  djs  la  Pkxxcbsa  (PI.  H,6),  Calle  deJ 


58     Route  8.  MADRID.  ^  FestivaU. 

Marqa^  de  I»  Ensenada,  built  in'1885,  the  last  two  for  high-class  comedy  •, 
Tbatbo  db  la  ZabzuAla  CPl.  n  i  G,  7),  Calle  de . Jovellanos  4-6,  built  in 
1866  for  operettas,  vaudevilles  (zarzveku)^  and  variety  performances.  — 
At  the  following  theatres,  most  of  which  are  open  in  summer  also,  short 
performances,  lasting  about  1  hr.,  are  given,  after  each  of  which  the  house 
is  cleared  (box  6-6,  stall  V*"*  P):  •Tbatbo  db  Laba  (PI.  F.  6),  Corredera 
Bi»a  16-17-,  Tbatbo  db  Apolo  (F1.  II;  G-,  7),  Oalle  de  Alcala  49  duplicado-, 
Tbatbo  db  Eslava  (PI.  II ;  F,  7,  8),  Pa^adito  de  San  Gin^s  3.  —  Sumvbb 
Thbatbb  in  the  Jardin  del  Bvm  RtUro  (PI.  H,  7),  Plaza  de  Madrid  (p.  67). 

Circuses.  Cireo  d€  Parish  (PI.  11;  G,  7),  Pla^a  del  Rey  2,  also  used  for 
operettas  and  ballets ;  Circo  de  Colon  (PI.  1 ;  G,  6),  a  wooden  structure  in 
the  Plaza  Alonso  Martinez.    Box'(palco)  10-12,  butacas  and  silla-s  2-8  p. 

Conoerts  (generally  in  spring  and  autamn  only).  Orchestral  concerts 
in  the  Teatro  del  PrinHpe  A^fotuo  (PI.  11-,  H,  6),  Pas^o  de  EecoMtoa  33. 
Chamber  Music  in  the  Saldn  Romero^  Calle  de  Capellanes  10. 

Bnll  BiBg  {Pkua  de  ToroM,  PI.  I,  L  6-,  comp.  p.  86),  to  the  E.  of  the 
city,  near  tramway-line  Ilia  (p.  66).  Tickets  are  sold  at  the  entrance  and 
also,  after  9  a.m.  on  the  morning  of  the  fight,  in  the  kiosque  at  the  corner 
of  the  Calle  de  Sevilla  and  the  Carrera  de  San  Jeronimo. 

Basque  Ball  Games  (Juegoe  de  Pelota;  comp.  p.  xxiz)  in  the  ^fronlones' 
Jai-Aldi.  Calle  Alfonso  Doce  66 ;  Beti-Jaij  Calle  del  Marques  de  Riscal  5; 
EUtkaH-Jai^  Calle  del  Marques  de  la  Easenada. 

Horse  Baces  (Carreras  de  Caballos)  in  spring  and  autumn  in  the  ffip6- 
dromo  (PI.  I:  H,  1, 2 ;  p.  92),  under  the  patronage  of  the  Socieddd  del Fomento 
de  la  Crfa  Caball^r  (society  for  the  encouragement  of  horse-breeding). 

g.  Ecclesiastical  and  Popular  Festivals.    Street  Life. 

The  Madrid  Festivals,  Popular  Celebrations,  Processions,  and  the  like 
are  every  year  becoming  less  brilliant  and  less  characteristic. 

Qn  the  Dia  de  Reyes  or  Twelfth  Night  (Jan.  6th)  the  streets  and  shops 
are  thronged  with  an  animated  crowd.  Troops  of  boys,  especially  in  the 
remoter  district,  perambulate  the  streets  with  torches,  ladders,  bells,  and 
drums,  halting  from  time  to  time  ^to  receive  information  of  the  move- 
ments of  the  arriving  Magi\  A  ^messenger'  invariably  tells  them  that 
Uhe  Magi  have  altered  their  route  and  are  coming  in  at  the  other  end  of 
the  city*,  whereupon  the  whole  troop  scampers  off  in  the  direction  in- 
dicated, to  take  up  the  performance  ^da  capo\ 

On  Las  Vueltas  de  San  AntoniOy  or  St.  Antonyms  Day  (Jan.  17th),  horses, 
oxen,  and  newly  clipped  mules  and  asses  are  led  (from  about  8  p.m.  on- 
wards) to  the  church  of  St.  Antony,  in  the  Calle  de  Hortaleza.  where 
they  are  solemnly  blessed  by  a  priest  standing  at  the  entrance.  Tnis  part 
of  the  city  afterwards  presents  a  somewhat  lively  appearance,  as  it  is  the 
use  and  wont  of  the  owners  of  the  animals  to  repair  to  a  tavern  after 
each  ^vnelta\ 

The  Madrid  Carnival  does  not  compare  with  the  same  celebration  in 
other  countries  and  ha9  been  justly  dubbed  the  ^Feast  of  Rag,  Tag^  and 
Bob-tair.  Almost  the  only  part  of  it  of  any  interest  to  the  stranger  is  the 
Corso,  which  takes  place  in  the  Park  of  Buen  Retiro  on  the  afternoons  of 
Carnival  Week.  On  the  third  day  of  the  Carnival  (Martes  de  Cai-navdl)  the 
estudiantinas  and  comparsas  assemble  at  3  p.m.  in  front  of  the  Royal  Palace 
and  enjoy  themselves  with  music  and  dancing.  The  Children's  Masked  BaUt^ 
held  in  the  afternoon  in  the  Teatro  Real  (p.  57)  and  the  Teatro  de  la 
Zarzuela  (see  above),  are  attractive.  The  only  other  Mcuied  Ball  that  can  be 
safely  visited  by  ladies  is  that  in  the  Teatro  Real.  —  The  so-called  EnUerro 
de  la  Sardina^  or  farewell  festival  of  the  Carnival,  is  celebrated,  with 
a  copious  accompaniment  of  eating  and  drinking,  on  the  canal  (Manza- 
nares),  outside  the  Paerta  de  Toledo  and  the  Puerta  de  Atocha,  on  the 
afternoon  of  Ash  Wednesday. 

Holt  Wbbk.  In  order  not  to  interfere  with  the  masses  of  pious 
church-goers  on  Man»dy  Thursday  (Juives  Santo)  and  Cfood Friday  (Yiimet 
Santo)f  all  wheeled  traffic  is  forbidden  on  these  days,  and  even  the  tram- 
way service  is  almost  entirely  discontinued.  —  About  midday  on  Good 


Festival.  MADRID.  8.  Route.    59 

Friday  and  Bad§r  amOag  the  so-oaUed  'ITvriage  Marked  (Bl  FMr  di 
tat  dt  G^mu).  in  the  Calle  Aloaltf,  between  the  churches  of  Calatrava  and 
San  Jo8^,  affords  a  very  characteristle  scene;  the  women  who  have  been 
at  church  appear  here  in  great  numbers,  most  of  them  wearing  mantillas 
and  flowers  in  their  hair.  ^  Daring  the  principal  festirals  part  of  the 
famous  collection  of  tapestry  (p.  97)  is  exhibited  to  the  public  in  the 
staircase  and  the  gallery  at  the  Sc^ai  Fataee.  On  Ifaandy  Thursday  the 
(^een  Kegent  washes  the  feet  of  twelre  poor  men  and  women  (Lcnatirio) 
and  then  feeds  them  (Comida)  in  the  3ai6n  de  las  Golumnas;  tickets  for 
this  ceremony  may  be  applied  for  seyeral  days  before  at  the  Intendencia 
(p.  60).  On  Good  Friday  a  procession  and  serrioe  are  held  in  the  palace 
ehapel.  During  the  latter  the  Queen  Regent  generally  commutes  a  number 
of  death-sentences,  this  act  of  clemency  being  notified  to  the  spectators 
by  the  Mibstltution  of  red  for  black  bands  on  the  rolls  of  paper  contain- 
ing  the  sentences.  —  While  this  picturesque  old  ceremony  is  being  en- 
acted at  court,  the  Calle  de  la  Princesa  is  the  scene  of  the  notorious 
Romtria  d»  la  Cora  d§  Didt  (^pilgrimage  to  the  face  of  Ood').  This  begins 
on  Maundy  Thursday  in  front  of  the  littte  church  of  the  Cara  de  Dios,  and 
is  continued  all  night  The  noisiest  scene  takes  place  before  the  prison 
(PI.  F,  9),  where  the  crowd  indulges  in  enormous  quantities  of  pancakes 
and  brandy.  The  celebration  ends  on  the  morning  of  Good  Friday  with  a 
promenade  in  the  Calle  de  la  Princesa,  in  which  the  demimonde  is  largely 
in  eridence.  This  *romerfa*  seldom  ends  without  the  use  of  the  knife  and 
other  acts  of  drunken  ruffianism.  —  The  Procuidn  dtl  Santo  BnHerro  in 
front  of  the  church  of  San  Oinds  on  Good  Friday  afternoon  is  interesting 
for  its  pa$ot  (p.  990),  or  groups  of  real  figures,  participated  in  by  members 
of  the  oldest  and  most  aristocratic  families.  —  On  Saturday  morning  all 
the  hells  of  the  city  peal  to  celebrate  the  Resurrection  Ciocar  d  gloria"). 

The  festlTal  of  the  Dot  do  Mayo  (May  2nd)  commemorates  the  rising 
described  at  p.  64.  In  the  morning  a  large  procession  marches  to  the  mon- 
ament  (p.  67),  where  a  religidus  service  is  held. 

On  May  15th  begins  the  Bomoria  do  San  loidro  dd  Campo,  the  tutelary 
saint  of  the  city,  which  lasts  a  fortnight  and  is  largely  attended  by  the 
peasants  from  the  surrounding  districts.  The  goal  of  the  pilgrimage  is 
thcErmita  de  San  Isidro  (PI.  I;  B,  11),  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Manzanlres. 
The  best  time  to  visit  the  scene  is  the  afternoon  of  one  of  the  first  three 
or  four  days;  parties  that  include  ladies  should  leave  before  the  later 
part  of  the  evening.  A  fair  is  held  near  the  Ermita,  at  which  all  sorts 
of  earthenware  vessels  are  sold  to  carry  off  the  wonder-working  water 
from  the  church-spring. 

In  June  is  held  the  JYoeooidn  del  Corptu,  or  Corpus  Christi  procession, 
which  is  taken  part  in  l)y  the  higher  clergy,  the  chief  military  and  civil 
dignitaries,  and  the  court-officials.  This  procession,  once  the  most  elab- 
orate of  all  the  church-festivals  of  Madrid,  is  best  witnessed  in  the  Puerta 
del  Sol.  —  Among  less  important  processions  are  those  of  the  Minorva  de 
8m  AndriSy  starting  at  the  church  of  San  Andres  on  the  afternoon  of 
Jane  18th)  the  Minerva  de  San  Mareoo^  in  the  Calle  Isab^  la  Catolica 
(June  30th))  the  Proceeidn  de  la  Virgen  da  Carmen^  from  the  church  of 
San  Jos€  (p.  67;  afternoon  of  July  16th);  and  the'iV*occn'<fn  de  San  Lorenzo ^ 
from  the  church  of  that  name,  in  the  Travesia  de  San  Lorenzo  (Aug.  10th). 

The  church-festivals  in  June.  July,  and  August  are  usually  preceded 
by  the  so-called  VerbinoUj  a  kind  of  evening  or  night  fair.  Among  these 
may  be  mentioned  the  verbena  de  San  Antonio  de  la  Florida^  at  the  little 
chnrch  of  that  name  (p.  103;  June  12th);  the  Verbena  de  San  Lorenzo^  in 
the  populous  quarter  of  the  Lavapi^  (Aug.  9th);  and  the  Verbena  de  la 
Pdtoma^  near  the  small  church  in  the  Calle  de  la  Paloma  (Aug.  14th). 

On  the  eve  of  St.  John's  Day  (June  23rd-24tb)  a  crowd  assembles  round 
the  Cybele  Fountain,  in  the  Plaza  de  Madrid  (p.  67)i  and  as  soon  as  the 
clock  in  the  tower  of  the  Banco  de  Espana  tolls  midnight,  those  within 
reach  dip  their  heads  in  the  water  or  throw  handfuls  of  it  over  those 
standing  farther  off.  This  is  an  ancient  custom,  originally  practised  at  a 
fountain  in  the  Puerta  del  Sol  which  is  no  longer  extant. 

On  the  days  of  All  Saints  and  All  Souls  (Nov.  1st  and  Nov.  2nd)  tak 


60    BouU  8,  MADRID.  Street  Life. 

place  the  Commemcracidn  de  lot  FUlu  DifwHot.,  when  the  cemeteries  are 
visited  by  large  crowds  and  the  graves  decked  with  flowers. 

On  the  ^Awdoff  before  Advent  (end  of  Nov.  or  beginning  of  Dec.)  an 
official  of  the  ecclesiastical  court  (Rota)  rides  through  the  principal  streets 
and  reads  the  ^decree  concerning  the  j^roclamation  of  the  Bull  of  the  Holy 
Crusade^  (Bula  de  la  Santa  Cruzada)  in  front  of  the  palace,  the  residence 
of  the  papal  nuncio,  the  ministry  of  justice,  the  central  police-office,  the 
municipal  offices,  and  elsewhere.  He  is  accompanied  by  the  city  ^Algua- 
ciles*  and  by  a  number  of  drummers  and  trumpeters  from  the  royal  stables, 
all  clad  in  costumes  of  the  17-18th  centuries.  This  bull,  first  issued  by 
Julius  II.  and  confirmed  by  Pius  IX.  in  1849,  grants  to  all  Spaniards,  at 
home  and  abroad,  the  same  indulgences  as  the  Crusade  bulls  of  Urban  II. 
and  Innocent  III.  Kezt  day,  at  10  a.m.,  the  bull  is  carried  from  the  papal 
church  of  San  Miguel  (Calle  San  Justo  A)  to  Santa  Maria  la  Beal  (CaUe 
Sacramento  7),  where  it  is  again  read. 

The  celebration  of  Chriitnuu  Day  (Naviddd)  has  lost  most  of  its  former 
brilliance.  A  so-called  MUa  del  OaUo  ('cock-crow  mass'),  or  midnight  mass, 
is  held  at  most  of  the  churches  on  Christmas  Eve.  At  its  close  the  aud- 
ience unites  in  singing  the  'villancicos'  relating  to  the  birth  of  the  Sav- 
iour, accompanying  the  song  with  all  kinds  of  noisy  instruments.  —  The 
same  night  the  lower  classes  perambulate  the  chief  streets,  with  songs, 
and  shouts,  and  drum-beating,  while  the  caf^s  in  the  Puerta  del  Sol  are 
crowded  from  midnight  on.  —  It  is  worth  while  visiting  the  large  Christ- 
mas fruit-market  in  the  Piazza  May<Sr,  especially  in  the  evening,  when 
the  closely  packed  stalls  are  brilliantly  illuminated. 

During  the  presence  of  the  court,  Ottard  Mounting  takes  place  in  the 
court-yard  of  the  palace  daily,  at  11  a.m.  —  Almost  every  Sat.  afternoon, 
at  four  o'clock,  the  members  of  the  royal  family,  accompanied  by  the 
chief  court-officials  and  by  the  rojal  body-guard,  drive  through  the  Oalles 
Bail^n,  Ferraz,  and  Ventura  Rodriguez  to  the  IgkHa  del  JSuei^  Suceto  (Calle 
Princesa  21*,  PI.  I,  D  5),  where  they  attend  the  *Salve\  A  diflferent  route 
is  sometimes  selected  in  returning. 


Street  life.  The  chief  centres  of  traffic  are  the  Puerta  del  Sol,  with 
the  streets  converging  on  it,  the  Plaza  May<5r,  the  Calle  de  Toledo,  and 
the  Plaza  de  Oriente.  Towards  evening  the  favourite  resorts  are  the  Calle 
de  AlcaU,  the  Paseos  de  Recoil tos,  de  la  Castellans,  and  del  Prado,  and 
the  Buen  Retiro  Park.  In  the  firstruamed  paseos  and  in  the  park  the 
world  of  fashion  seldom  appears  except  in  carriages  (comp.  p.  o7).  —  A 
morning  visit  should  be  paid  to  the  markets  (mercadoi),  especiaUy  that 
in  the  Plaza  de  la  Ceb^da  (p.  105)^  the  traveller,  however,  must  not  ex- 
pect to  see  much  that  is  characteristically  Spanish,  as  most  of  the  old- 
tashioned  Madrid  types  and  costumes  have  disappeared  for  ever.  —  In  the 
height  of  summer  the  streets  are  almost  deserted  until  the  cool  of  the 
evening',  according  to  the  proverb  no  creature  exposes  himself  to  the 
sun  except  un  perro  6  un  franeit  ('a  dog  or  a  Frank',  i.e.  a  foreigner). 
The  liveliest  scenes  are  witnessed  in  the  Saldn  del  Prado  and  the  Buen 
Betiro  Park  after  9  p.m. 

h.  List  of  Ohief  Oollectiona  and  Other  Sights. 

The  Churchss,  none  of  which,  except  San  Francisco  el  Orande  (p.  104), 
are  of  much  interest,  are  generally  open  before  10  a.m.  and  from  4  to 
7  p.m.  —  The  Pbivatb  Palaces  are  rarely  of  any  architectural  importance, 
but  some  of  them,  sucL  as  the  Palaeio  de  Murga  (p.  86),  contain  valuable 
treasures  of  art,  which,  however,  are  seldom  open  to  the  public.  —  The 
McssDMs  are  generally  closed  on  festivals  (dia*  fesHvos)  and  also,  strangely 
enough,  on  rainy  days  (diae  Uuviotos) ;  during  the  festival  of  San  Isidro 
(p.  69),  up  to  about  May  23rd,  they  are  apt  to  be  uncomfortably  crowded. 

*Acad4mia  de  BeUat  Artee  (p.  66),  daily,  10  12  and  2-4,  on  preaentation 
of  passport  or  permesao  (papeUta);  fee  V«-i  P- 

"Armeria  (p.  97),  daily,  10-12 ;  ticket,  good  for  6  pers.,  obtained  between 
1  and  6  p.m.  at  the   'Intenddncia  General  de  la  Real  Casa  y  Fatrimonio', 


ColUetioM,  MADRID.  8.  RouU.    61 

in  the  H.B.  ftogle  of  the  Plau  de  Amnaa  (8.  tide  of  the  FsUmIo  Beti, 

mUoteea  Naciinai  (p.  fiO),  on  week-day8,  8-2  (in  winter  10-4):  MS. 
Boom,  10-4. 

OabamHau  (p.  98),  on  Mob.,  1-1,  by  tieket  obtained  At  the  Intend^neU 
Oeneril  (see  Above). 

Com  de  Campo  Cp.  103),  daily,  by  ticket  obtained  at  tbe  Intend^ncla 
Oenerti. 

Colegio  de  BordthMmdM  (p.  OS),  on  Mon.  afternoon^  Ueketo  (50 o.  each) 
in  the  book-shop  of  San  Martin,  PuerU  del  Sol  6. 

Depdsitot  del  Canal  de  lozofa  (p.  93),  daily,  ticket  (good  for  6  pers.,  1  p.) 
at  San  Mertin'e  (flee  aboye). 

gecmOa  de  VeUrimaria  (v.  105),  on  Mon.,  T^es.,  Tbars.,  ft  8at.,  10-3; 
tickets  (fiO  c.  each)  at  San  Martin's  (see  above). 

Jardin  Botdnieo  (p.  %),  daily  from  May  to  end  of  Oct.,  from  4  p.m.  till 
daak-,  at  other  seasons  on  Mon.,  Tues.,  Thurs.,  ft  Sat.,  10-3,  by  ticket  (GOe.) 
at  San  Martin's  (see  above). 

Muteo  AntropoldgicQ  (p.  lOn,  daUy,  10-12  and  2-6  -,  tfcket  obtained  at  the 
Seeretaria  de  la  tlDiversidad  Centrti,  Calle  San  Bernardo  51. 

*Mueeo  ArqueoUgieo  Nadonal  (p.  86),  daily,  9-1  (in  winter  on  week-days 
11-5,  Snn.  and  fesUvalfl  9-1). 

Miueo  de  Arte  Modemo  (p.  90),  not  yet  open  to  the  public  (intending 
Tiiitors  may  apply  to  the  director  P.  Madrazo). 

•Mneeo  de  ArliOeria  (p.  (»),  on  Taes.  ft  Sat.,  10-3;  ticket  (6  pers.  •,  1  p.) 
at  San  Martinis  (see  above). 

Muteo  de  Ciweiae  Naturalei  (p.  92);  no  a  1  mission  at  present. 

Mueeo  de  lngenilro»  (p.  85),   on  Taes.  ft  Frid.,  10-3^    ticket  as  above. 

Mueeo  Naoal  (p.  100),  on  Tnes.  ft  Frid.,  10-3;  ticket  as  above. 

**Mv»eo  del  Prado  (p.  70),  open  in  winter  daily,  9-4  (Mon.  1-4),  50  c. ; 
OB  Sun.,  10-3,  free;  in  summer  daily,  7-1  (50  c.;  Sun.  free). 

Jfuseo  Ptoto-HutoiHco  Iberico  (p.  86),  adm.  on  Mon.,  Wed.,  Frid.,  10-1, 
through  the  Conserje  (fee  1  p.). 

Mueeo  de  Beprodwcionee  Artietieae  (p.  69),  daily,  8-6. 

Mueeo  y  BibHoteca  de  UUramar  (p.  84),  daily,  except  Wed.,  1-5  (in  sum- 
mer 7-10  and  5-7). 

Obeervatorio  AMrondmico  (p.  107),  daily,  on  application  to  the  IMrector. 

J*alacio  del  Cengrao  (p.  69).  The  public  gallery  is  generally  over- 
crowded daring  the  sittings  of  the  Cortes,  which  usually  begin  at  3  p.m. 
Admission  to  the  other  galleries  is  obtained  through  one  of  the  deputies. 
When  the  house  is  not  sitting,  visitors  are  admitted  on  application  to  the 
*conserje'  (fee  1  p.). 

Ptdacio  Real  (p.  95),  accessible  in  the  absence  of  the  royal  family  by 
written  permission  from  the  Intendente  General  (p.  60).  The  courts  and 
chapel  are  always  open. 

JPfaea  de  Toroe  (p.  86),  daily,  except  on  bull-fight  days,  for  a  fee  of  1  p. 

Ohief  Attnetioae.  Pueria  del  Sol  (p.  65);  Mueeo  del  Prado  (p.  70); 
Jesfi  BeHro  (p.  84);  Paeeoe  del  Prado.  de  BeeeUtoe^  and  de  la  CaeteUana 
(pp.  69,  86.  92);  Mueao  ArqueoUffieo  (p.  86);  Aeadimia  de  BeUaeArUe  (p.  66); 
Armeria  (p.  97);  Pkua  de  Oriente  (p.  90);  View  from  the  CampiUo  de  lae 
VIeUllae  (p.  104).  A  superficial  idea  of  Madrid  may  be  obtained  in  two  or 
three  days,  but  fully  uiat  time  ought  to  be  devoted  to  the  magnificent 
Picture  Gallery  of  the  Prado  alone.  The  Armeria,  though  not  of  such 
general  interest,  has  even  fewer  rivals  in  its  own  field.  Perhaps  the  only 
maadulterated  Spanish  article  in  the  now  almost  entirely  ^Earopeaniaed* 
Madrid  is  the  buU-Aghk 

MadM  (accent  on  second  eyllable,  and  final  d  almost  Inaudible), 
witli  500,000  inhab.,  the  capital  of  Spain,  the  residence  of  the  king 
(^la  ViUa  y  CorW),  and  seat  of  a  bishop,  a  university,  and  the  Cap- 
tain-General of  New  Castile,  is  now  one  of  the  finest  cities  in  Europ 


62    BouteS.  MADRID.  CUmate, 

though  denied  by  nature  of  almost  every  suitable  condition  for  a 
metropolis.  As  capital  of  the  United  Kingdom  of  Spain,  it  took  the 

'  place  of  the  several  capitals  of  the  formerly  independent  Spanish 
states;  it  was  a  political  creation,  a  historical  necessity.  Philip  II.,  the 
most  powerful  of  Spanish  monarchs,  was  practically  debarred  from 
choosing  as  the  capital  of  his  united  kingdom  of  *Las  Espafias*  either 
the  Aragonese  Saragossa,  or  the  Castilian  Burgos,  or  the  Ylsigothic 
Toledo,  or  the  Moorish  Cordova  or  Seville ;  hence  he  created  a  new- 
capital,  on  an  excrescence  near  the  geographioal  centre  of  the  pen- 
insula, in  the  midst  of  a  bleak  and  elevated  steppe,  with  neither 
an  important  river  nor  a  decent  forest  in  the  vicinity,'  and  with  a 
climate  made  dangerously  treacherous  by  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
Guadarrama  Mts.  t  Madrid,  now  the  centre  of  a  system  of  railways 
embracing  the  entire  peninsula  In  its  net,  is  a  parvenu,  which  has 
grown  great  at  the  expense  of  the  provinces. 

Madrid  lies  on  the  insignificant  river  Manxandre$,  in  3®41'51" 
W.  long,  and  40**  24' 30"  N.  lat.  The  astronomical  observatory  lies 
270  ft.  above  this  stream  and  2160  ft.  above  the  sea.  Its  changeable 
and  sometimes  even  dangerous  climate  is  conditioned  by  this  lofty 
situation,  in  the  midst  of  an  interminable,  treeless,  and  almost  un-> 
cultivated  plain,  and  by  the  propinquity  of  the  Sierra  de  Quadar^ 
rama,  a  great  mountain-range  which  in  winter  is  slightly  covered 
with  snow  and,  if  the  wind  comes  from  the  N.W.,  hurls  down  icy 
storms  and  rain  on  the  unprotected  country.  The  range  of  temperature 
within  a  few  hours  often  amounts  to  Sb^  Fahr.  or  even  more.  The 
air  is  so  keen  and  so  subtle  that,  according  to  a  popular  couplet,  it 

■  .will  kill  a  man,  while  it  will  not  blow  out  a  candle  (^el  aire  de  Madrid 
es  tan  sutil^  que  mala  d  un  hombre  y  rho  apaga  d  un  candiV).   Afifec- 

•tions  of  the  lungs  are  too  easily  acquired,  while  typhus  and  typhoid 
fevers  are  less  frequent.  All  should  be  especially  on  their  guard 
against  chills  and  colds.  ^Hasta  el  cuarenta  del  Mayo  no  te  quiies  el 
sayo' ;  wait  for  May  40th  before  you  lay  aside  your  cloak !  —  The 
public  rooms  of  the  best  hotels  and  caf^s  are  now  generally  heated 


t  It  should  be  noted,  however,  that  the  vicinity  of  Madrid  was  not 
always  so  destitute  of  trees.  Avgote  de  Molinas,  writing  in  1582,  mentions 
Madrid  as  charming  for  its  shady  situation  and  extensive  woods  'well 
suited  for  hunting  stags,  boars,  and  even  bears\  The  reason  of  the  pre- 
sent state  of  affairs  is  given  by  Sir  John  Talbot  Dillon  (1780):  ^ITothing 
can  be  more  bleak  or  dismal  than  the  general  aspect  of  the  country  round 
the  seat  of  its  monarch,  and  that  chiefly  from  the  great  want  of  trees,  to 
which  the  Castilians  have  an  intense  dislike,  from  a  false  notion  that  they 
increase  the  number  of  birds  to  eat  up  their  corn,  forgetting  not  only  that 
in  their  climate  the  shade  and  shelter  of  the  foliage  are  required,  but  also 
that  without  them  they  have  no  means  of  securing  moisture,  and  preterv- 
ing  it  after  dews  and  rains'. 

'Since  the  building  of  the  new  water-works,  green  oases  of  groves 

have  sprung  up  again,  and  these,  it  is  said,  are  already  beginning  to 

modify  the  climate,  so  that  it  is  probable  that  if  the  present  policy  is 

continued,  irrigation  may  restore  to  Madrid  its  former  pleasant  climate'* 

-^.  r.  Fiwk). 


History,  MADRID.  8.  Routt.    63 

by  iion  stoves  (utufas),  but  the  mnseoms  and  galleries  still  depend 
on  the  inadequate  braziers  (bnueroij,  —  The  best  time  to  visit 
Madrid  is  from  the  middle  of  April  till  the  end  of  May,  or  from  the 
middle  of  September  till  the  end  of  November.  December  is  the 
wettest  month,  January  the  coldest  The  heat  of  July,  August,  and 
the  fLrst  half  of  September  is  almost  unbearable.  All  who  can  possibly 
manage  it  then  seek  refuge  on  the  Mediterranean  coast,  at  La  Granja, 
at  Eseorial,  or  at  the  popular  bathing-resorts  of  the  N.W.  provinces. 

Madrid  first  appears  in  history  in  the  10th  cent,  in  the  form  of 
the  fortified  Moorish  outpost  of  Madjrtty  occupying  the  site  of  the 
present  loyal  palace  and  intended  to  check  the  advance  of  the  Re- 
eonquistadores  of  Castile.  This  fortress  was  adjoined  on  the  S. 
by  a  small  settlement.  Alfonso  VI.  captured  Madjrit  in  1083 
and  converted  the  Arab  mosque  into  the  Jgletia  de  la  Virgen  de  la 
AknudSna  (p.  90).  The  Castilian  monarchs  endowed  the  town  with 
many  fn^ios  (p.  4),  and  it  grew  rapidly,  extending  at  first  to  the 
Puerto  Latina,  Gerrada,  and  de  Guadalaj&ra  and  afterwards  to  the 
Puerto  de  Santo  Domingo,  de  San  Martin,  and  del  Sol.  The  arms 
of  the  dty  represent  a  man  climbing  an  arbutus-tree  (madrono)y 
below  which  stands  a  bear.  They  originated  in  a  law-suit  between 
the  city  and  the  clergy,  in  which  the  forest  under  dispute  was  as- 
signed to  the  former,  the  pasture  to  the  latter. 

In  1329  Ferdinand  lY.  assembled  the  first  Corte$  in  'MadrU\ 
In  1383  King  John  I.  handed  over 'the  lordship  of  the  town  to  King 
Leo  v.,  who  had  been  expelled  from  Armenia;  but  on  the  death  of 
the  latter  Madrid  reverted  to  Castile.  The  unquiet  times  during 
the  long  minority  of  Henry  III.  caused  the  court  to  move  to  Segovia,  • 
because  Madrid  did  not  seem  strong  enough  (^por  no  $«r  fueric 
aqudla  vUia').  At  the  elose  of  Henry  IV.'s  reign  Madrid  was  shaken 
by  new  troubles.  The  adherents  of  *La  Beltraneja',  the  daughter  of 
Benry  lY.,  took  possession  of  the  Alcazar  and  were  besieged  in  it 
for  two  months  by  the  Duque  del  Infantado.  Quieter  days  followed 
the  accession  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  the  ^Reyes  Catolicos'  (1477). 
The  Jews,  however,  were  expeUed  and  their  synagogues  destroyed. 
The  madness  of  Johanna  ^la  Loca'  and  the  uncertainty  of  the  suc- 
cession on  the  death  of  Ferdinand  embroiled  Madrid  once  more. 
Cardinal  Ximenez,  surnamed  CimSrot  by  the  Spaniards,  is  the 
dominant  figure  in  this  period.  —  Under  Charlbs  Y.  Madrid 
espoused  (1520)  the  cause  of  the  ComunSros,  or  opponents  of  the 
centralisation  of  authority  in  United  Spain.  After  the  defeat  of  this 
party  at  YiUalar  (1521)  Charles  Y.  visited  Madrid  (1524),  partly 
to  cure  himself  of  a  fever  contracted  at  Yalladolid,  for  in  those  days 
Madrid,  not  yet  entirely  divested  of  its  woods,  was  considered  a 
healthy  resort.  In  1525  Francis  I.  of  France,  taken  prisoner  at  the 
battle  of  Pa  via,  was  brought  to  Madrid,  where  he  was  confined  first 
in  the  Torre  de  los  Luj&nes  (p.  103),  and  then  in  the  Alcazar.  The 
following  year,  however,  through  the  exertions  of  his  mother  and  of 


64    RouUS.  MADRID.  History. 

his  sister,  the  Queen  of  Navarre,  he  obtained  his  liberty  and  married 
the  Princess  Leonora ,  sister  of  Charles.  At  the  beginning  of  the 
16th  cent,  the  town  contained  abont  3000  inhabitants. 

Philip  II.  definitely  and  finally  made  Madrid  the  royal  resi- 
dence and  declared  it  in  1660  the  Uniea  Corte.  At  first,  however, 
the  town,  then  containing  2500  houses  and  26-30,000  inhab.,  de- 
rived little  advantage  from  this  move.  The  court  did  nothing  for  it, 
except  to  cut  down  the  last  remaining  forests  to  defiray  its  expenses. 
The  so-called  Regalia  de  Aposentoa  made  the  owners  of  large  houses 
responsible  for  the  lodging  of  the  courtiers  and  the  noblesse,  with 
the  result  that  the  only  houses  built  were  the  small  and  low  ^Casai 
d  la  malieia\  which  were  exempt  from  this  burden.  The  develop- 
ment of  the  town  was  thus  unnaturally  checked ;  and  down  to  the 
beginning  of  the  18th  cent.  Madrid  remained  a  badly-built,  dirty, 
and  unhealthy  place,  inhabited  by  a  shifting  and  unstable  population. 
In  spite  of  all,  however ,  it  was  in  this  period  that  Spanish  art  and 
letters  attained  their  zenith.  Cervantes  lived  at  Madrid  from  1609 
till  his  death  in  poverty  seven  years  later,  and  wrote  here  the  second 
part  of  'Don  Quixote'  and  other  works.  Velazquez  here  produced  his 
miracles  of  colouring.  Calderon  here  conducted  the  Spanish  drama 
out  of  the  popular  channel  of  Lope  de  Vega,  that  'mdnstruo  de  la 
naturaleza'  as  Cervantes  called  him,  into  the  mystic  and  court-like 
forms  that  befitted  the  Spanish  idea  of  religion  and  honour. 

The  18th  century  brought  the  Bourbons,  and  the  building  of  the 
great  royal  palace.  The  most  prominent  name  in  the  new  dynasty  is 
that  of  Charles  III.,  who  resigned  the  throne  of  Naples  in  1759  to 
*  ascend  that  of  Spain.  Every  great  enterprize  was  either  begun  or 
completed  by  him.  Charles  IV.  abdicated  in  1808.  This  was  followed 
by  the  Revolution  of  May  2nd  {Dos  de  Mayo ;  p.  59)  and  the  en- 
trance of  Joseph  Bonaparte^  the  so-called  'Rey  Pepe'  or  *Pepe  BotrfUa'. 
Joseph  also  earned  the  popular  title  of  *Rey  Plazuelas'  by  his  efforts 
to  supply  lungs  for  Madrid  through  the  destruction  of  convents  and 
whole  blocks  of  buildings  (mansdnas);  but  these  undertakings  were 
soon  put  an  end  to  by  the  restoration  and  the  return  otFerdinand  VII. 
Madrid  increased  and  improved  mightily  during  the  ensuing  period 
of  revolution  and  change,  marked  by  the  contests  for  the  constitution 
of  1812  (p.  437),  the  wars  between  the  Carllsts  and  Oristinos  (p.  4), 
and  the  struggle  between  the  party  of  the  past,  with  its  great  re- 
collections, and  the  party  of  the  future,  with  its  great  expectations. 
In  the  middle  of  the  18th  cent,  a  Spanish  author  could  still  write 
that  Madrid  '•era  la  corte  mas  sdxia  que  se  eonocfa  en  Eufopd'  ('the 
dirtiest  capital  in  Europe'),  and  another  compares  It  with  an  African 
village.  A  little  later,  hovrever,  the  pride  of  the  Madrileno  in  his 
city  was  embodied  in  the  proud  saying :  'Dc  Madrid  pi  cielo  y  en  el 
cielo  un  ventanillo  para  ver  h  Madrid*  (from  Madrid  to  Heaven  and 
Meaven  a  loophole  to  look  at  Madrid).  For  the  Spaniard  the 
is  in  truth  la  yema  de  Espana  (the  yolk  of  the  Spanish  egg). 


Puerta  del  Sol.  MADRID.  8.  RouU.    65 

A  good  idea  of  the  lita&tlon  of  Madrid  may  be  obtained  flrom  the 
Itf^e  relief  In  the  Aitillary  Mttseum  (p.  68).  The  city  lies  on  an 
uodnlatiDg  diluvial  plateau  of  clay  and  sand,  which  rises  about  430  ft. 
between  the  Manzanares  on  the  S.  W.  and  the  Lozoya  Canal  on  the  N. 
This  plateau  is  furrowed  by  deep  depressions,  formerly  the  beds  of 
torrents  (arroyoi)  descending  to  the  Manzanares.  The  largest  of 
these  is  that  separating  the  city  proper  from  the  Prado  and  the  new 
£.  suburb,  and  containing  the  Paseos  de  la  Gastellana,  de  Recoltftos, 
and  del  Prado.  During  heavy  rain  the  water  still  flows  down  through 
this  natural  ^rambla*  (p.  xxxvlii),  though  now  in  channels  specially 
prepared  for  it,  and  finally  enters  the  Manzanares  as  the  Arroyo  del 
Hotpital.  Among  the  smaller  arroyos  of  the  past  are  the  Calles  del 
Arenal,  de  Segovia,  de  Toledo,  and  de  £mbajad6res.  The  Galle  de 
Jaeometrezo,  on  the  other  hand,  runs  along  a  ridge  from  end  to  end. 

The  city  with  its  New  Qua&tbbs  is  rapidly  spreading  over  all 
these  heights  and  hollows,  particularly  in  the  Barrio  de  Ghamberf 
towards  the  N.  and  over  the  Afueras  de  Buenavista  on  the  N.£. 
The  Bueu  Retire  forms  a  barrier  to  its  extension  on  the  £.,  and  the 
Manzanares  on  the  W.  The  Manzanares,  usually  very  scantily 
supplied  with  water,  is  spanned  by  the  following  B&idobs  :  on  the 
N.W.,  the  Puente  Verdt  (Pi.  I;  B,  6),  adjoining  the  ErmiU  de  Sail 
Antonio  de  la  Florida  ;  on  the  W.,  the  PaenU  del  Bey  (PI.  G,  7), 
constructed  in  the  reign  of  Ferdinand  VII.  between  the  Gampo  del 
Moro  and  the  Casa  de  Campo,  and  the  Puente  de  Segovia  (VV.  0,  8], 
built  by  the  celebrated  Juan  de  Herrera  (1784);  on  the  S.,  the 
PuaUe  de  Toledo  (PI.  I;  D,  11),  completed  in  1732  and  profusely 
decorated  In  the  rococo  style.  The  banks  of  the  river  are  constantly 
rlsiag  through  the  silting  up  of  the  stream ,  whence  the  piers  are 
partly  buried  in  the  ground. 

A.  From  the  PaertA  del  Sol  to  the  Prado. 

The  Puerte  del  Sol  (PI.  F,  7,  8),  the  largest  and  most  animated 
plaza  in  Madrid,  derives  its  name  from  an  old  gateway,  on  the  E. 
side  of  which  was  a  representation  of  the  sun.  It  has  been  the  real 
political  arena  of  Spanish  history  from  the  Gomun^ro  movement  in 
1520  (p.  63)  down  4o  the  latest  times.  Its  space  was  found  too 
limited  as  far  back  as  1570,  and  the  ^gateway  of  the  sun'  was 
removed.  Since  then  the  plaza  has  been  several  times  enlarged.  It 
received  its  present  form  in  1856.  The  buildings  around  it  are  large 
and  high,  but  of  no  architectural  importance.  The  largest  is  the 
UvnUUrio  de  la  Oobernacidn  (PL  F,  8),  or  Ministry  of  the  Interior 
(formerly  the  post-office),  on  the  S.  side^  on  its  facade  is  a  Normal 
Ctoefc,  regulated  from  the  Astronomical  Observatory.  On  all  sides 
are  large  hotels  and  caf^s  (comp.  pp.  63,  64).  No  fewer  than  ten 
streets  end  in  this  plaza. 

The  Gasbb&a  de  Sjlk  Jbb6nimo  and  the  Gallb  i>b  AloalX  lead 
to  the  E.  from  the  Puerta  del  Sol  to  the  great  paseos  on  the  T 

Baedekbb's  Spain.  5 


66    RouU  8.  MADRID,     a.  FVom  the  Puerta  del 

margin  of  the  inner  city.  The  flret  of  these,  containing  tb 
elegant  shops  in  Madrid,  fonns  the' shortest  route  to  the 
(p.  67).  After  ahont  ^4  M.  it  expands  into  the  Plaza  de  la«^ 
(p.  68).  The  Calle  de  AlcaU,  the  widest  street  in  the  innei 
is  a  fashionable  promenade  (comp.  p.  60)  and  a  favourite  rdi 
pnhlic  processions.    No.  11  in  this  street,  to  the  left,  is  the  4 

Beal  Acadimia  de  Bellas  Artoi  (PI.  F,  7),  formerly  thi 
demia  de  Nobles  Aries  de  San  Fernando ,  founded  in  1752  K 
culture  of  painting,  sculpture,  architecture,  and  music.  Tlj 
floor  contains  a  small  •Pictubb  Gallbby  (adm.,  see  p.  60;* 
to  the  right),  chiefly  of  works  by  Spanish  masters,  among  whfl 
some  of  the  noblest  creations  of  Murillo.    Catalogue  in  prepan 

We  first  enter  the  ScUdn  de  Sesionts^  the  last  room  to  thi 
containing  the  gems  of  the  collection:  **MuriUoj  Dream  A 
Roman  Knight  that  led  to  the  foundation  of  Santa  Maria  Mai 
at  Rome,   and  the  Interpretation  of  the  Dream,   two  of  the! 
perfect  and  fascinating  works  of  the  master,  alike  in  the  figures 
colour,  and  the  chiaroscuro.    Soult  carried  off  these  pictures  I 
Santa  Maria  la  Blanca  at  Seville.  —  Rubens,  Monk  kneeling  betH 
Christ  and  the  Virgin,  a'  work  of  his  middle  period,  painted  4 
the  aid  of  his  pupils ;  *MuriU0y  Ascension ;  Riberay  Ecce  Homa 
** Murillo f  St.  Elisabeth  of  Hungary  healing  the  sick,  known  aifi 
Tifioso',  brought  by  Soult  from  the  Caridfid  at  Seville.  The  reall 
fidelity  in  the  representation  of  the  cripples  and  the  lepen 
counterbalanced  by  the  artistic  handling  of  the  light  and  the  se4 
beauty  of  the  royal  saint.  —  Vomenichino,  Head  of  John  the  Bap' 
Between  the  windows :  Alonso  Cano^  Crucifixion. 

Middle  Room  (adjoining  the  last).   Marinus,  St.  Jerome  (163 
Murillo f  Ecstasy  of  St.  Francis,  St.  Diego  of  AlcaU  feeding  the  pa 
*Riberaj  Assumption  of  the  Magdalen,  an  early  masterpiece  (162 
Zurbardn,  Ecstasy  of  St.  Benedict,    a  clear  and  admirable  w| 
(1630);  Raphael  Mengs,  Portrait  of  a  woman.  Several  clever  ske 
by  Goya,  of  bull-fights ,  mad-houses,  scenes  of  the  Carnival 
Inquisition.  —  We  pass  through  the  comer-room  to  the  — 

Entrance  Room.  A.  Pereda,  Dream  of  the  Connoisseur.   The  i 
scription  'aBteme  pungit,  clto  volat  et  occidit'  refers  to  the  fly 
dart.  According  to  others,  the  picture  symbolizes  the  transitor 
of  all  earthly  things.  —  Rubens,  Susannah  at  the  bath,  a  coarse  ail 
early  work  (1610) ;  Juan  Cabtxalero,  Representation  of  a  miraolff^:^^^ 
Ribera,  Ecstasy  of  St.  Francis;  Morales^  Pieta.  ^y     ^ 

Last  Room  to  the  right  Madrazo,  Queen  Isabella  II. ;  *Qoya,yQi 
Two  portraits  of  a  Maja,  or  girl  of  the  people,  reclining  on  a  divan^p^ 
(one  nude,  the  other  draped).  ^-i 

A  few  paces  farther  on,  beyond  the  Calle  de  Peligros,  to  the  left,  ^\ 
stands  the  Iglesia  de  las  CalatravoB  (PI.  II ;  G,  7),  dating  from  the  v^^ 
17th  century.    To  the  right ,  at  the  corner  of  the  Calle  de  Sevilla,  v^'^j 


H 


6 


to  the  Prado.  MADRID.  8.  kouU,    67 

is  the  handsome  office  of  the  Equitablt  Inturanee  Co,  (E^itatha). 
Farther  on,  to  the  left,  are  the  ohnrch  of  San  «7(M^(P1.  G,  7),  erected 
in  1742,  and  the  Teatro  de  Apolo  (p.  68). 

The  Calle  del  Barqnillo,  diverging  to  the  left  hy  the  Teatro  de  Apolo, 
leads  to  the  amall  Plaza  del  Rey  (PI.  G,  7),  with  garden-beds  and  a  statue, 
by  Xariano  BenlHnre,  of  Limtmiant  Jacinto  JZin'r,  one  of  the  participators 
in  the  revolution  of  the  Dos  de  Mayo  (see  below).  -^  On  the  K.  aide  of  the 
plaza  liea  the  Oirco  (U  Pari$/i, 

Kearly  opposite  the  Teatro  de  Apolo ,  at  the  corner  of  the  Calle  del 
Turco,  is  the  spot  where  General  Ftim  was  mardered  in  1870. 

We  have  now  reached  the  end  of  that  part  of  the  Calle  de  Alcaic 
that  lies  in  the  inner  city.  To  the  left,  in  a  large  garden ,  stands 
the  Palaeio  del  MinUteno  de  la  Ouerra  (PI.  G,  H,  7;  war-omce), 
which  was  formerly  the  property  of  the  notorious  Godoy  (p.  124\  the 
^Prince  of  the  Peace*,  but  was  confiscated  by  the  state  in  180o.  In 
1841-43  it  was  occupied  by  the  Regent  Espartero,  and  in  1869-70 
by  Gen.  Prim.  To  the  right,  with  its  principal  facade  (880  ft.  long) 
turned  towards  the  Sal6n  del  Prado,  is  the  handsome  Baiieo  de 
Bspafi*  (PI.  H,  7),  erected  in  1884-91  by  Eduardo  de  Adaro  and 
Severiano  Sanvt  de  la  Laatra. 

The  Calle  de  AlcaU  now  intersects  the  Plaza  db  BiAD&ii>  (PI.  II ; 
H,  7),  in  the  centre  of  which  rises  the  *Ffiente  de  Cib^lea^  a  beau- 
tiful fountain  by  Bobert  Michel  and  Francisco  Gutierrez  (18th  cent.), 
with  a  marble  group  representing  the  goddess  Cybele  in  a  chariot 
drawn  by  two  lions.  At  the  S.£.  corner  of  the  square,  in  the  garden 
of  the  former  Palaeio  de  San  Juan,  is  the  popular  Jardin  del  Buen 
Retiro  (p.  68),  with  its  summer-theatre.  —  The  outer  Calle  de 
AlcaU  leads  to  the  £.  from  the  Plaza  de  Madrid  to  the  Plaza  de 
la  Independencia  (p.  85),  with  one  of  the  main  entrances  of  the 
Buen  Retiro  Park  (p.  84),  and  on  to  the  Plaza  de  Toros  (p.  86). 
To  the  left  (N.)  runs  the  beautiful  Paseo  de  Recol^tos.  In  the  mean- 
time we  turn  to  the  right  (S.)  and  enter  the  — ' 

*Prado,  the  famous  ^meadow'  (pratwn)  of  San  Jer6nimo,  so 
often  celebrated  by  Lope  de  Vega  and  other  poets.  •  It  was  once  the 
most  fashionable  promenade  in  Madrid,,  but  has  been  thrown  some- 
what into  the  shade  by  the  new  paseos  to  the  N.  We  first  reach  the 
wide  Salof  del  Prado  (PI.  H,  7, 8),  which  has  several  rows  of  trees. 
Near  the  middle  of  it  is  the  fine  Fuente  de  Apolo^  erected  by  Ventura 
Rodriguez  in  1780  and  decorated  with  statues  of  Apollo  and  the 
Seasons  by  Manuel  Alvarez.  Near  this  fountain,  in  the  midst  of  the 
pleasure-grounds  of  the  semicircular  Plaza  de  la  Lealtad',  rises  the 
Koniundnto  del  Doi  de  Kayo  (PI.  H,  8),  consecrated  to  the  ^Martyrs 
of  Liberty'  who  fell  on  May  2nd,  1808,  in  the  attempt  to  expel  the 
French  from  the  city,  and  in  particular  to  Luis  Daoi%  and  Pedro 
Velardej  two  artillery  officers  who  trained  on  the  French  the  guns 
in  the  park  of  MonteWon  (pp.  69,  94).  This  rising,  which  began  at 
the  palace  on  account  of  the  carrying  off  of  the  royal  princes,  was 
mercilessly  put  down  by  Murat.  The  *blood  bath'  in  which  he  ex- 
ecuted some  hundreds  of  peaceful  citizens  in  the  Prado  is  commem- 

6* 


68    Route  8,  MADRID .     a.  JVom  the  Puerta  del  861 

orated  in  Goya's  picture  mentioned  at  p.  82.  Though  it  failed 
in  its  immediate  object ,  the  brave  attempt  roused  the  people  of 
Spain  to  the  *War  of  Liberation'  (*Guerra  de  Independtfncia'),  and 
led  to  tbe  effective  intervention  of  the  British  under  Wellington. 
The  monument,  erected  in  1840  from  the  design  of  Isidro  Velazquez 
and  enclosed  by  a  railing,  consists  of  two  portions.  The  lower  part 
is  a  structure  of  grey  granite,  with  a  sarcophagus ,  medallions  of 
Daoiz  and  Velarde,  the  arms  of  Madrid,  two  inscriptions,  and  the 
'Spanish  lion.  Above  this  rises  an  obelisk  of  yellowish  granite  from 
the  Hoyo  de  Mauzanares,  surrounded  by  allegorical  figures.  —  For 
the  annual  celebration  of  the  Bos  de  Mayo,  comp.  p.  59, 

Behind  the  monument,  to  the  left,  is  the  Bolia  de  Gomercio 
(PI.  H,  7;  Exchange),  a  tasteful  classic  building  by  Enrique  Maria 
BepuUes  (1893),  with  a  portico  borne  by  six  Corinthian  columns. 

—  From  the  Plaza  de  la  Lealtad  the  Calle  de  la  Lealtad  ascends 
towards  the  £.  In  it,  to  the  right,  at  some  distance  from  the  street, 
on  the  site  of  the  old  Palace  of  Buen  Retire  (p.  86),  stands  the 
*][TiBeo  de  ArtUleria  (PI.  II;  H,  8),  founded  in  1803  and  rebuilt 
in  1890.  It  contains  a  very  interesting  collection  of  relief  plans, 
models,  weapons,  trophies,  and  patriotic  relies. 

Chrottud  Floor.  Booh  I  (in  front).  Guns  captured  in  campaigns  against 
Moorish  pirates  and  in  Gocbin  China,  including  some  richly  ornamented 
Bronze  Om*  of  Malay  Pirates.  Collection  of  minerals.  —  Boom  II.  Model 
of  the  Alcazar  of  Segovia.  Large  relief-plan  of  Madrid  in  1830.  —  Boom  III. 
Extensive  collection  of  Cannon  and  their  appurtenances.  Carriage  in  which 
Qen.  Prim  was  assassinated  (p.  67).  Table  used  by  Charles  V.  at  Villa- 
viciosa  (p.  491)  on  his  arrival  in  Spain  (1517). 

rirst  Floor.  Boom  I.  Equestrian  portrait  of  Gen.  O'Donnell.  Battle 
of  Tetuan  (1860),  painted  by  Sans.  Moorish  tent  captured  in  the  war  with 
Morocco  (I860).  Banner  of  Charles  V.  Tent  of  Charles  F.,  used  in  the 
campaign  against  Tunis  (1535).  Banners,  models  of  bridges  and  fortifica- 
tions, etc.  —  BdoM  II.  Portraits  of  Alfonso  XII.  and  of  the  Queen-Eegent 
with  the  little  Alfonso  XIII.  Gun  and  equipage,  presented  by  Enipp  to 
Alfonso  XII.  —  Boom  III.  Native  weapons  from  the  American  and  Asiatic 
colonies  of  Spain.  ^Staiue  of  a  Philippine  Chief  of  the  island  of  Mindanao. 
Armour  from  the  Philippine  Islands.  Wooden  shields.  Chinese  bow. 
Armour  of  a  Mexican  cacique.    Tom-tom.  —  Boom  IV.    Model*  of  Quns. 

—  Boom  V.  Model  of  a  large  Krupp  cannon.  —  Boom  VI.  Colketion  of 
Armour  from  the  middle  ages  tp  the  present  day.  —  Boom  VII.  ffittorical 
Coll-eetion.  Weapons  and  uniforms  of  famous  Spanish  generals.  Banner 
of  the  Veterans  in  Venezuela.  Bemains  of  the  banner  carried  by  Fernando 
Cortez  in  the  conquest  of  Mexico.  Weapons  and  banners  taken  from  the 
Cubans.  Model  of  a  fortress ,  presented  by  the  Emperor  of  Austria  to 
Charles  IV.    Table  on  which  the  Treaty  of  Vergara  (p.  19)  was  signed. 

—  Boom  VIII.  Coffins,  portraits,  and  other  reminiscences  of  Daoiz  and 
Velarde  (p.  67).  Moorish  Sword  of  Aliatar,  Alcalde  of  Loya.  Portraits  of 
celebrated  Spanish  generals. 

The  S.  end  of  the  Salon  del  Frado  is  embellished  by  the  Fuente 
de  Neptuno^  by  J.  Pascual  de  Mena  (18th  cent.).  This  stands  op- 
posite the  Plaza  db  las  Oobtes  (PI.  II;  0, 8),  a  tree-shaded  square 
forming  the  S.E.  prolongation  of  the  Oarrera  de  San  Jer6nimo  (p.  65). 
It  is  adorned  by  a  Bronze  Statue  of  Cpvantes,  by  Antonio  Sola  (1835). 
The  reliefs  on  the  pedestal,  representing  Don  Quixote's  adventure 


to  the  Prado.  MADRID.  8.  Route.    69 

with  the  lions,  and  the  Don  and  Sancho  Pansa  led  by  the  goddesfl  of 
F<^ly,  are  by  Jostf  Piqnei.  —  The  N.E.  corner  of  the  plasa  is  oc- 
cupied by  the  — 

Palaeio  del  Congreio  (PL  G,  8;  adm.,  aee  p.  61  ^  entr,  in  the 
Galle  del  Sordo,  on  the  N.  side),  a  handsome  strncture  by  NareUo 
Pfueu&l  (1843-60),  with  a  portieo  of  six  Corinthian  columns.  In 
the  pediment  aze  the  inscription  ^OmgrtBo  de  lo$  Di8putado$\  and 
an  allegorical  group  by  Poneiano  Pomano  t  representing  Spain 
embracing  the  Constitution,  surrounded  by  figures  of  Strength,  the 
Fine  Arts,  Commerce,  and  others.  The  two  Liom  on  the  steps  were 
designed  by  Ponzano  and  cast  from  the  metal  of  Morocco  cannon 
taken  at  the  baUle  of  Tetuan  in  1860. 

The  interior  is  interesting,  eapecially  daring  the  session  of  the  Cortes. 
In  tbe  SALdN  DE  SssioNss,  lighted  from  the  roof,  the  seats  of  the  deputies 
are  arranged  in  semidrctilar  rows  facing  the  chair  of  the  president.  The 
freseoea  on  the  walls  represent  the  Oath  of  the  Cortes  at  Cadix  in  1812 
(by  Cdsado)  and  Maria  de  Molina  introdoeing  her  son  to  Ferdinand  IV.  (by 
Oisbert).  The  eeiling  is  adorned  with  tbe  portraits  of  famous  legislators 
of  all  times,  by  JUvtr*.  In  the  middle  is  an  apotheosis  of  eminent  Span« 
iards  (the  Cid,  Columbus,  Cervantes,  etc.),  by  the  same  artist  Two  MarbU 
TabkU  on  the  wall  behind  the  presidents  seat  bear  the  names  of  the 
Spaniards  who  fell  in  the  strun^e  for  political  freedom.  The  ministerial 
bench  is  called  £f  Borneo  A*4l,  The  deputies  speak  from  their  places.  — 
The  most  interesting  of  the  other  rooms  is  the  SALtfN  ds  Confxbsnoias, 
which  contains  allegorical  scenes,  a  picture  of  the  Oomuneros  by  CHtbert^ 
reliefs  of  celebrated  publicists  and  orators,  and  marble  busts  of  UarUntg  d% 
In  Xata,  Tonno,  ArgUeltet^  and  Oldsaga, 

We  now  return  to  the  Prado,  the  next  section  of  which  is  named 
the  Pas^o  del  Pbado  (PI.  H,  8,  9).  To  the  right  stands  the  Museo 
del  Prado  (p.  70),  to  the  S.  of  which  are  the  Plaza  de  Murlllo  and 
the  Botanic  Garden  (p.  83).  In  front  of  the  W.  facade  of  the 
museum,  amid  some  beautiful  cedars  of  Lebanon,  is  a  dramatic 
*Marble  Oroup  of  Daoiz  and  Velarde  (p.  67),  by  Jos^  Sola.  —  A 
little  farther  to  the  S.  are  the  four  unimportant  Ikientes  Oemilas, 

The  Calle  de  Felipe  Cuarto,  beginning  at  the  Neptune  fountain 
(p.  68),  ascends  to  the  £.,  past  the  main  entrance  of  the  museum, 
to  the  Galle  de  Alfonso  Doce  (p.  84)  and  the  former  Jardines  Reser- 
vados  of  the  Buen  Retire  (p.  84).  To  the  right,  halfway  up  the 
hill ,  is  the  BecU  Acadimia  Espanola  (PI.  H ,  8) ,  or  Academy  of 
Science,  built  in  1893.  To  the  S.  of  this  is  the  Gothic  church  of 
San  Jer6nimo  el  Beal  (PI.  II;  H,  8),  built  in  1503  and  restored 
in  1879-82.  From  1628  to  1833  this  church  witnessed  the  meetings 
of  the  Cortes  and  the  talung  of  the  constitutional  oath  by  the  PrCn- 
cipe  de  Aaturias  (the  heir  apparent).  —  At  the  upper  end  of  the 
street  is  a  Bronze  Statue  of  the  Queen- Regent  Maria  Christina  (widow 
of  Ferdinand  VH.;  d.  1878),  by  Mariano  Benlliure,  erected  in  1893. 
The  building  in  front  of  which  this  statue  rises  is  the  Musso  db 
Rbfboduccionbs  Abtisticas  (pi.  II;  H,  8),  formerly  the  CastSn  of 
the  Buen  Retire  and  now  containing  a  collection  of  casts,  photo- 
graphs, and  other  reproductions  of  ancient  and  modern  works  of  art. 


70    Route  8.  MADRID.  6.  Muieo 

The  ceiling  of  the  main  hall  is  decorated  with  allegorical  frescoes 
by  Luea  Oiordano,  lepresenting  the  foundation  of  the  Order  of  Aie 
*Toi86n  de  Oro*,  or  Golden  Fleece.  The  entrance  is  in  the  Calle  de 
Alfonso  XII  (p.  84;  adm.,  see  p.  61). 

b.  The  KiiBee  del  Prado. 

The  **Mu8eo  del  Ptado  or  Museo  Nacional  de  Pintura  y  Escultura 
(PI.  H,  8;  adm.,  p.  61)  contains  not  only  the  famous  picture-gallery 
of  the  Spanish  kings,  but  also  a  collection  of  sculptures  and  old  draw- 
ings. The  entrance  for  the  pictures,  which  are  distributed  throughout 
the  three  stories  of  the  building,  is  in  the  Calle  de  Felipe  Cuarto 
(p.  69).  The  sculptures  are  on  the  groundfloor,  the  drawings  on 
the  third  floor.  —  The  building  was  begun  in  the  reign  of  Char- 
les III.  by  the  celebrated  architect  Juan  de  ViUanueva^  and,  after 
a  long  interruption  caused  by  the  French  invasion,  was  gradually 
carried  to  a  conclusion  under  Ferdinand  VII.  The  first  three  rooms  of 
the  picture-gallery  were  opened  in  1819.  The  exterior  is  by  no  means 
destitute  of  merit.  As,  however,  the  rooms  were  originally  intended 
for  a  collection  of  natural  history,  they  are  not  well  adapted  for  their 
present  purpose.  The  light  is  generally  insufficient,  a  defect  that  is 
most  sensibly  felt  in  the  middle  of  the  long  gallery,  where  many  of  the 
masterpieces  are  collected.  The  ^Room  of  Queen  Isabella  II.*  has 
recently  been  improved ;  but  the  enjoyment  of  the  pictures  is  sadly 
interfered  with  by  the  bustle  and  apparatus  of  the  innumerable  copy- 
ists. —  It  may  be  noticed  that,  though  most  of  the  doors  are  closed 
in  winter,  they  are  not  locked. 

The  ♦•Collection  of  Old  Paintings,  by  far  the  most  important 
part  of  the  Museum,  consists,  according  to  the  latest  edition  of  the 
catalogue  (p.  73),  of  about  2000  works.  The  actual  nimiber  on  exhibi- 
tion varies,  as  paintings  are  sometimes  consigned  to  the  storerooms 
and  others  shown  in  their  place.  —  Ferdinand  VII.  combined  in  one 
collection  the  pictures  from  all  his  palaces,  except  the  Escorial.  To 
this  were  added  in  1840  the  pictures  of  the  *Museo  Nacional  de  la 
Trinidad',  consisting  of  early  Spanish  and  Flemish  paintings  removed 
from  the  convents  in  1836  et  seq.  The  royal  gallery  of  Spain  is  one 
of  the'  oldest  in  Europe.  The  treasures  of  the  art-loving  Charles  V., 
most  of  which  were  brought  to  Spain,  were  rapidly  increased  by  the 
kindred  taste  of  Philip  II.  and  Philip  IV.  Philip  V.  added  a  large 
number  of  French  pictures  of  the  17-18th  centuries.  It  is  too  much 
to  say  that  the  Madrid  Gallery  is  the  best  in  Europe,  but  it  is  prob- 
ably entitled  to  rank  along  with  the  Louvre  and  the  galleries  of 
Dresden  and  Florence. 

The  chief  treasure  of  the  gallery  'consists  naturally  enough  of 

the  paintings  of  the  Spanish  School  in  general  and  of  its  great 

master  Diego  Velazquez  in  particular.   About  sixty  genuine  works 

"  this,  the  greatest  colourist  of  all  time,  are  here  united,  and  among 

^  are  probably  all  his  most  brilliant  creations ,  in  spite  of  the 


dHFrado, 


MADRID 


8.  Rtmte.     71 


ftet  that  Abovt  half  of  his 
works  aieno  longer  in  Spain 
but  scattered  among  the 
private  galleries  of  England 
and  elsewhere.  Yelazqnez 
is  here  represented  at  all 
ages,  from  his  twentieth  year 
to  his  death,  and  in  all  his 
different  phases:  —  as  por- 
trait -  painter ,  historical 
painter,  landscape-painter, 
and  painter  of  Biblical,myth- 
ological,  and  genre  subjects. 
~  The  gallery  possesses 
abont  as  many  pictures  by 
MurUlo ,  including  fine 
works  of  yarious  periods, 
but  none  of  his  greatest 
masterpieces.  —  £<6ero, 
whose  works  were  of  so 
much  importance  in  forming 
the  style  of  the  two  great 
masters  Just  mentioned,  is 
represented  by  numerous 
and  admirable  specimens.  In 
fact,  the  Spanish  school  of 
the  16-i8ih  cent  is  repre- 
sented by  almost  all  its  mas- 
ters and  generally  by  ex- 
cellent works.  The  best 
paintings  of  masters  of  the 
second  class  are,  however, 
still  for  the  most  part  to  be 
seen  in  the  churches. 

The  collection  is  also 
rich  in  works  of  the  foreign 
schools  of  both  Italy  and  the 
Netherlands.  It  contains  in- 
deed only  two  important 
pictures  of  the  Eablt  Ital- 
lAKS  of  the  I5th  cent. :  an 
altar-piece  by  i^  Angdieo 
and  the  Death  of  the  Virgin 
by  Maniegna,  The  best 
period  is,  howerer,  repre- 
sented by  numerous  master- 
pieces.   Ten    pictures    are 


72    Route  e.  MADRID.  h.  Mu^eo 

ascribed  to  Bapiuul,  Among  these  is  the  ^Spasimo  di  Sicilia',  one 
of  the  most  powerfal  creations  of  the  painter.  The  others  inolnde 
the  Madonna  with  the  fish,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  Baphaers 
Madonnas ;  a  second  and  smaller  Holy  Family  which  shows  similar 
beauty  on  a  miniature  scale ;  and  a  fascinating  portrait  of  a  cardi- 
nal. —  Among  the  finest  of  the  other  paintings  of  the  same  period 
are  a  masterpiece  of  Andrea  del  Sarto,  two  paintings  by  Sebeutiano 
del  Piombo,  and  two  genuine  early  works  ofCorreggio.  —  The  most 
attractive  part  of  the  Italian  section  is  that  devoted  to  the  Venetian 
school.  Oiorgione  is  represented  by  an  admirable  work.  Titian 
contributes  nearly  forty  paintings,  including  several  masterpieces. 
To  his  early  period  belong  the  portrait  of  Alfonso  d'£ste,  and  the 
^Bacchanal'  and  'Fertility',  two  allegorical  -  mythological  works 
painted  for  that  prince.  To  his  middle  and  later  periods  belong  the 
full-length  portraits  of  Charles  V.  and  Philip  II.  and  the  equestrian 
portrait  of  Charles  V . ,  three  miracles  of  portraiture ;  the  nude  figures 
of  Venus  and  Danae ;  and  ibe  allegorical  works  celebrating  the 
glories  of  the  Church  and  of  Spain.  —  The  later  Venetians,  from 
Paolo  Veronese  to  Tiepolo,  are  also  admirably  represented. 

The  Early  Flemish  Paimtinos  of  the  collection  enjoy  a  some- 
what exaggerated  reputation,  and  the  works  ascribed  to  Jan  van  Eyck 
and  Memling  are  not  authentic.  The  museum,  however,  possesses  a 
number  of  interesting  and  genuine  works  of  Roger  van  der  Weyden, 
Petnia  Cristus,  H,  Bosch  ^  Mannus^  Patinirj  H.deBleSj  and  P.  Brueghel, 
The  Latb  Flemish  School  is  represented  by  numerous  works,  some 
of  which  are  of  great  merit.  There  are  more  than  sixty  genuine 
specimens  oi  Rubens,  The  half-lengths  of  the  Apostles  are  character- 
istic eiiamples  of  this  master's  period  of  study  in  Italy.  The  Adora- 
tion of  the  Magi  is  a  magnificent  early  work,  painted  after  his  return 
to  Antwerp.  There  are  also  a  number  of  excellent  pictures  of  his 
middle  period,  but  the  most  important  part  Of  the  Rubens  collection 
consists  of  the  many  splendid  examples  of  his  later  years,  during 
which  he  worked  mainly  for  Philip  IV.  Among  the  twenty-one  pic- 
tures by  Anthony  van  Dycky  differing  widely  in  motive  and  in  period, 
there  are  a  few  of  his  masterpieces,  such  as  the  Betrayal  of  Christ. 
The  Family  Group  of  Jordaens  is  surpassed  by  no  other  work  of  that 
master.  The  numerous  specimens  of  David  Teniers  the  Younger  are, 
however,  generally  inferior  to  those  in  Vienna,  St.  Petersburg,  and 
the  Louvre.  Jan  Brueghel,  again,  can  be  nowhere  studied  to  so  great 
advantage  both  as  regards  quality  and  variety.  •—  The  Dutch  Sohool 
is  conspicuous  by  its  almost  total  absenoe,  and  the  Gbrmak  School 
is  represented  by  but  a  few  works,  though  these  are  good  of  their  kind. 

The  Frbnoh  School  of  the  17th  cent,  is  represented  more 
abundantly  here  than  in  most  of  the  great  collections  outside  of  the 
Louvre;  NicoUu  Pcussin,  Claude  Lorrain^  and  the  contemporary 
portrait-painters  may  all  be  studied  here  to  advantage.  Two  works 
by  Waiteau  are  prominent  among  the  paintings  of  the  18th  century. 


dH  Prado.  MADRID.  8.  Eoule.    73 

Good  CtMhgue  (price  i  p.)  "by  Pedro  d«  M»druo.  The  asme  author 
is  preparing  a  detailed  scientific  catalogue,  of  which  only  the  first  volume, 
embracing  the  Spanish  and  Italian  schools,  has  been  published.  —  The 
Director  of  Oie  Museum  is  the  painter  Francit<9  J^xtditta^  appointed  in  1896. 

Passing  through  the  main  entrance  ,  we  first  turn  to  the  rooms 
on  the  Pxinoipal  Floor.  A  broad  flight  of  steps  ascends  to  the 
RoTiTKDA  (PI.  1),  where  four  large  Tempera  Paintings  of  the  Early 
Spanish  School  are  interesting :  Adoration  of  the  Magi  (in  two  sec- 
tions) and  SS.  Peter  and  Paul.  These  pictures  originally  formed  the 
shutters  of  the  organ  in  the  church  of  St  Thomas  at  Avila,  and 
reveal,  hy  the  energy  of  their  conception  and  their  deep  and  vigorous 
colouring ,  the  Master  of  the  Altar  of  St.  Thomas  (p.  48).  —  On 
each  side  of  the  Rotunda  lie  five  cabinets,  those  to  the  right  contain- 
ing paintings  of  the  Spanish  school  of  the  17th  century,  those  to 
the  left  Italian  works  of  the  16- 18th  centuries. 

Italian  Cabinets.  —  Entraitcb  Cabinet  (PI.  2).  nBO.  Titian, 
Venus  listening  to  a  young  musician;  15.  Lneia  AngviMola,  Portrait 
of  Piermaria,  a  physician  of  Cremona;  269.  Qvido  Reni,  *La  Virgen 
de  la  Sllla'  (Virgin  of  the  Chair).  —  We  now  turn  to  the  right  into  — 

CabihbtS.  No.  371.  Raphael,  Holy  Family  with  the  Lizard, 
painted  by  a  pupil  from  the  master's  design ;  ♦370.  Raphatl,  Ma- 
donna dellaRosa,  a  work  of  his  latest  period,  cool  in  colouring^  and 
perhaps  executed  by  OhiUo  Romano ;  389.  Andrta  del  Sario,  Virgin 
and  Child  with  St.  John;  524.  VasaH,  Virgin  and  Child  with  angels. 

Cabinet  4.  'No.  211.  Luea  Giordano,  Allegory  of  Peace,  re- 
presenting Rubens  painting  the  enthroned  Goddess  of  Peace.  This 
work  is  probably  both  in  composition  and  in  colouring  the  most  at- 
tractive of  the  numerous  paintings  in  the  Prado  by  this  quick-work- 
ing master,  who  spent  many  years  at  the  Spanish  court.  Below  the 
painting  are  several  sketches  by  the  same  artist.  —  We  now  return 
and  from  Cabinet  2  enter  — 

Cabinet  6,  containing  a  series  of  large  and  excellent  works  by 
Giovanni  Baitista  Tiepolo  (*407.  Immaculate  Conception,  notable 
for  its  splendid  colouring),  and  by  his  nephew  Domenico  Tiepolo, 

Cabinet  6.  No.  2123  e.  OiuUo  Romano,  Christ  appearing  to  the 
Magdalen ;  2125.  Oiov.  Franc.  PemfU,  Copy  of  Raphael's  Transfig- 
uration in  the  Vatican.  —  We  now  return  to  the  Rotunda  and  cross 
it  to  the  — 

Spanish  Cabinets.  —  Cabinet  7.  749,  750,  751,  763.  Juunes, 
Scenes  from  the  life  of  St.  Stephen ;  849.  Morales,  Presentation  in 
the  Temple;  Juanes,  757.  Martyrdom  of  St  Agnes,  754.  Portrait  of 
Luis  de  Castelvi;  Morales,  847.  Ecce  Homo,  848.  Mater  Dolorosa; 
Juanes,  756.  Visitation,  759.  Ecce  Homo.  —  We  now  pass  to  the 
right  into  — 

Cabinet  8.  No.  701.  Coello ,  Virgin  enthroned,  with  saints. 
VeUaquez,  'lOSl,  1082.  Philip  IV.  and  his  second  wife,  Marianne 
of  Austria,  at  their  fald-stools  (painted  in  the  master's  latest  per- 
iod); ♦1068.  Equestrian  portrait  of  the  young  Prince  Don  Bal- 


74    Route  8,  MADBID.  b,  Muaeo 

tasar  Carlos,  irith.  the  hills  roand  the  Escorial  in  the  distance 
(oa.  1635). 

Cabinbt  9.  MuriUo,  867.  Annnnciation,  855.  Rebecea  and  Elea- 
zar.  Velazquez,  1078.  Full-length  portrait  of  Marianne  of  Austria, 
second  wife  of  Philip  IV.  (painted  in  the  master's  latest  period) ; 
♦1073.  Don  Carlos,  younger  brother  of  Philip  IV.  (an  early  work  j 
ca.  1626).  ♦788.  Del  Ma&o,  View  of  Saragossa,  painted  in  1647  after 
a  riot ;  the  exquisite  little  figures  of  Philip  IV.'s  courtiers  are  by 
Maze's  father-in-law,  Velazquez.  —  Velazquez,  ♦1059.  Vulcan's  forge, 
painted  at  Rome  iii  1630.  The  grouping  of  the  n^odels  is  somewhat 
academic;  but  the  expression  of  jealousy  in  Vulcan  and  the  varying 
degrees  of  sympathy  in  his  workmen  are  portrayed  with  the  touch  of 
a  master.  1083.  Prince  Don  Baltasar  Carlos  (1642-43).  —  629.  Jose 
AntoUnez,  Assumption  of  the  Magdalen.  2150  b,  c.  Claudio  CoeUo, 
St.  Dominic,  St.  Rosa.  —  We  now  return  through  Cab.  7  to  — 

Cabinet  10.  No.  947.  Franc,  BiJbalta,  Angel  appearing  to  St. 
Francis ;  the  colouring  is  brilliant,  and  the  expression  of  ecstasy  on 
the  ascetic  face  of  the  saint  is  delineated  in  a  masterly  manner. 
1132.  Zurbaran,  St.  Casilda.  Fantoja  de  la  Orm,  923.  Maria,  wife 
of  Emp.  Maximilian  II.  j  924.  Isabella  of  Valois,  third  wife  of 
Philip  II.  J  931.  Philip  II.  1032.  Sanchez  CoeUo,  Don  Carlos,  son  of 
Philip  II.  (the  hero  of  Schiller's  tragedy).  On  a  stand,  1056.  Velax- 
qv£z,  Virgin  enthroned,  a  singular  creation  of  his  latest  period,  with 
the  reddish  violet  illumination  of  a  stormy  sunset. 

Cabinet  11.  Del  Mazo,  789.  Don  Tiburdo,  790.  Portrait  of  a 
woman. 

We  now  return  to  the  Rotunda  (PI.  1),  whence  a  staircase  (PI.  A) 
descends  to  the  right  to  the  — 

Rooms  op  Alfonso  XII.,  which  contain  the  Spanish,  Flemish, 
AND  German  Pictures  of  the  15-16th  cent,  (except  several  master- 
pieces in  the  Room  of  Queen  Isabella  II.,  p.  77).  To  the  left  of  the 
first  landing,  1016.  Fr,  Rid,  Auto  de  ¥4  in  the  Plaza  Mayor  on 
30th  June,  1680  (comp.  p.  102). 

The  Entrance  Room  and  part  of  Room  II  contain  the  Early 
Spanish  Works.  In  order  to  form  a  just  idea  of  this  school,  we 
must  study  not  only  the  works  in  this  collection,  but  also  a  few  of 
the  more  important  paintings  in  the  Archaeological  Museum,  as 
well  as  the  altar-pieces  in  the  churches  scattered  throughout  Spain. 
The  Museo,  however,  possesses  a  considerable  number  of  canvases 
that  are  of  real  interest  in  the  history  of  Spanish  painting.  Among 
the  most  important  of  these  is  the  fine  ♦Series  of  scenes  from  the 
lives  of  SS.  Peter  Martyr,  Thomas  Aquinas,  and  Domingo  de  Guz- 
man (2139-2148),  erroneously  ascribed  to  Berruguete.  They  come 
from  Avila,  and  are  undoubtedly  by  the  same  hand  as  the  beauti- 
ful retablo  in  Santo  Tomas  in  that  city  (p.  48)  and  the  organ-shutters 
shown  in  the  Rotunda  (p.  73).  The  colouring,  the  peculiar  character 
*  the  oil-technique,  and  to  some  extent  the  conception  also  show 


del  J)ndo.  MADRID.  8.  Route,    75 

tbct  the  painter  of  these  pletares  must  have  matared  in  Italy  under 
the  infinence  of  Melozio  and  Signorelli.  WhooTer  he  was ,  he  Is 
mperior  to  all  the  other  early  masters  of  Spain  in  energy  and  origin- 
ality of  conception,  in  boldness  of  foreshortening,  and  in  yigonr  and 
brilliancy  of  colouring.  Special  notice  shonld  be  taken  of  Nos.  2141. 
St  Peter  Martyr  preaching  at  Milan,  and  (Room  II)  !2143.  Death  of 
St.  Peter  Martyr,  and  2148.  Auto  de  ¥4  of  St  Domingo  de  Gnsman, 
the  earliest  representation  of  this  kind.  — Another  series  of  pictures 
(Nos.  2164-21541),  ascribed  to  Correa^  shows  a  somewhat  later 
master  under  equally  strong  Italian  influence,  emanating  mainly  firom 
Peiugino  and  Albertlnelli.  No.  2154a  the  Death  of  St  Bernard,  is 
especially  remarkable.  —  Nos.  2155-2160  are  by  a  mediocre  artist 
painting  under  Flemish  influence,  and  are  wrongly  ascribed  to  Fern. 
Gallegos.  Nos.  2178-2184  are  by  a  similar  master  of  a  somewhat 
earlier  date. 

In  the  ante-room,  on  stands:  to  the  right,  *1818.  Roger  van 
der  Weyden,  Descent  from  the  Cross,  one  of  the  numerous  replicas 
of  this  painting,  claiming,  along  with  the  picture  in  the  Escorial,  to 
be  the  original  work  of  the  master  (comp.  also  p.  115).  Left,  1291. 
PeiruB  CrUtuBj  Altar-piece  with  the  Annunciation,  Visitation,  Nativ- 
ity, and  Adoration  of  the  Magi.  —  Room  II,  on  stands :  left,  1817a. 
Roger  van  der  Weyden  (?),  Marriage  of  the  Virgin.  Peculiarities  in 
tiie  colouring,  types,  and  costume  make  it  probable  that  this  work 
was  painted  in  Spain  by  a  Flemish  master  about  1460-70.  Right, 
*14.  Fra  Angelieo  da  Fteiole ,  Annunciation  and  Expulsion  from 
Eden ;  in  the  predella,  Marriage  of  the  Virgin,  Visitation,  Adoration 
of  the  Magi,  Presentation  in  the  Temple,  Death  of  the  Virgin. 

RooH  III  contains  the  Eablt  Flemish  and  EanLT  Qbrmak 
Paintimos.  To  the  left  of  the  entrance :  1221.  P.  Brueghel  the  Elder ^ 
Triumph  of  Death.  On  a  stand  by  the  second  window :  1523.  Patinirj 
Temptation  of  St.  Antony.  —  On  the  wall  opposite  the  windows: 
1175.  H.  Botch,  Adoration  of  the  Magi;  1304,  1305.  Lueas  Cranach 
the  Younger  (not  the  EUief\  Charles  V.  hunting  at  Moritzburg  with 
the  Elector  of  Saiony  (1544) ;  1525.  Herri  met  de  Bles  (not  Paiinir), 
St.  Francis  in  the  desert;  1423.  Mannut,  Virgin  and  Child,  in  the 
style  of  Quinten  Matsys;  ♦1314,  ♦1315.  Albreeht  Durer,  Adam  and 
Eve  (1607;  copies  at  Florence  andMayence).  -—  2194.  Petrut  Oris- 
iU9,  Virgin  and  Child  in  a  landscape ;  1860.  H,  Botch,  Operation  for 
the  stone  (the  artists  of  these  two  works  described  by  the  catalogue 
M  unknown);  1519.  Patinir,  Rest  on  the  Flight  into  Egypt.  —  2189- 
2193.  School  of  Roger  van  der  Weyden,  Large  triptych,  from  the 
Convent  of  St.  Aubert  at  Cambrai,  with  the  Crucifixion  in  the  middle, 
the  Fall  and  the  Last  Judgment  on  the  wings,  and  the  Tribute  Money 
on  the  outside.  The  effect  of  this  picture  is  marred  by  the  fact  that 
the  small  Biblical  scenes  in  the  architectural  frame-work  are  painted 
in  body  colours  and  not  (as  is  usual)  In  grisaille.  —  We  now  return 
to  the  Rotunda  and  ascend  by  the  staircase  to  the  left  to  the  — 


76    Routes,  MADRID.  b,  Mu9eo 

Long  Gallbbt  (PI.  1!2).  The  Ante-Boom  (PI.  12  a)  contains  pic- 
tures by  Ribera  (1004, 1005.  liion  and  Prometheus)  and  by  El  Oreco 
(Dom,  Theotocopuli;  2124,  2124c.  Gruciflxion  and  Baptism  of 
Christ;. 

The  Long  Gallery  is  divided  into  two  sections,  the  first  (extend- 
ing as  far  as  the  Room  of  Isabella  n.)  containing  the  Mabtbbpiecbs 
OF  THS  Spanish  School,  while  the  second  is  devoted  to  Italian 
Masterpieces. 

We  begin  our  inspection  with  the  left  wall.   Ribera  y   *980. 
Mary  Magdalen  in  the  desert,  of  rare  beauty  in  expression,  clear  and 
briUiant  In  colour;  990.  Holy  Trinity;  ♦939.  Martyrdom  of  St.  Bar- 
tholomew, a  work  of  charming  colouring,  broad  and  masterly  hand- 
ling,   and  vigorous  conception,    but  unfortunately  damaged.  — 
Velazquez  y  *1055.  Crucifixion  (1638),    showing  a  conscious  and 
most  unusual  striving  after  idealism ;  1054.  Adoration  of  the  Magi, 
his  earliest  known  work  (1619);  1085,  1103.  Portraits,  painted  by 
the  master  when  about  twenty  years  old ;  1070.  Full-length  portrait 
of  the  young  King  Philip  IV.  (ca.  1627);  ♦1095.  El  Prime,  one 
of  Philip  IV .'s  dwarfs ,  with  a  book  on  his  knees ,  a  masterpiece  of 
the  artist's  middle  period  (1644);  1109,  ♦1110.  Decoratiye  views 
of  the  Fuente  de  los  Trltones  and  the  Calle  de  la  Reina  in  the 
park  of  Arai\jnez  (comp.  pp.  97,  125);  ♦1090,  Count  of  Benavente, 
painted  about  1635,  and  very   attractive  in  conception;  ♦1098, 
*1099.  Two  dwarfs  of  Philip  IV.,  most  repulsive  little  creatures  but 
wonderful  masterpieces  of  painting  (late  period). — ♦♦1062.  'Las  Me- 
ninas'  or  ^La  Familia',  representing  Velazquez  painting  Philip  IV. 
and  Queen  Marianne,  who  are  seen  reflected  in  a  mirror  at  the  back ; 
in  front  is  the  little  Princess  Margaret,  attended  by  her  master  of 
ceremonies,  dwarfs,  and  maids  of  honour  ('meniuas').   In  power  of 
characterization,    delicate  handling  of  indoor  light,   perfection  of 
colouring,  and  picturesque  treatment,  this  is  one  of  the  best  works 
of  the  master  (latest  period ;  1666).  —  ♦I  107,1106.  Views  of  the  Villa 
Medici,  charming  and  brilliantly  coloured  studies,  painted  by  the 
master  during  his  first  visit  to  Rome ;  ♦1096.  Royal  dwarf,  said  to 
be  Sebastian  de  Morra;  1102.  Mars,  the  God  of  War  (latest  period); 
1097.  Dwarf  (said  to  be  English),  with  a  bull-dog;  ^1069.  Equestrian 
portrait  of  the  Conde  Duque  de  Olivarez,  for  many  years  minister 
of  Philip  IV.   (ca.  1640);  ♦1064,  1065.  Equestrian  portraits  of 
Philip  III.  and  his  wife,  painted  with  the  aid  of  older  portraits  in 
1644,  long  after  their  death.  —  Right  wall,  beginning  at  the  bnst  of 
Murillo:    935.    Pareja  (the  'slave'  and    afterwards   the  pupU   of 
Velazquez),  Calling  of  St.  Matthew,  an  interesting  painting  show* 
ing  the  costumes  of  the  period.  Velaiquez,  ♦1066,  ♦1068.  Equestrian 
portraits  of  Philip  IV.  and  Isabella  of  Bourbon,  his  first  wife  (1644) ; 
1074.  PhiUp  IV.  in  hunting  costume  (ca.  1628);  1088,  1087.  Half- 
length  portraits  of  the  master^s  daughters (?),  early  works;  1071. 
'ing  Philip  IV.  (latest  period);  ♦llOl,  ♦llOO.  Menlppus  and  ^sop, 


del  f^do,  MADRID.  8,  BouU,     77 

two  delectable  types  of  Spanish  low  life  (cs.  1650).  —  *^1060.  Sur- 
render of  Breda,  painted  in  1647  and  widely  known  under  the  name 
of  Xas  Lanzas'.  In  characterization,  colouring,  and  arrangement  this 
18  one  of  Telazqnez^s  masterpieces,  and  there  is  probably  nowhere 
a  nobler  example  of  historical  painting.  An  interesting  insight  into 
the  painter's  own  way  of  thinking  is  afforded  by  the  kindly,  courte- 
ous, and  sympathetic  manner  in  which  Spiiiola,  the  Tictor,  receiyes 
the  submission  of  the  unfortunate  Justin  of  Nassau;  the  official  re- 
presentation of  the  same  event  by  Leonardo  (No.  767  in  the  ante- 
room 12a)  shows  that  there  was  no  warrant  for  this  conception  of 
the  scene  eltber  in  actual  fact  or  in  the  wish  of  the  king  (Philip  IV.) 
for  whom  the  picture  was  painted.  •  MwiUOy  ^881.  Graeiflxion  of 
St.  Andrew,  a  small  masterpiece  with  fine  colouring  and  treatment 
of  light;  870.  *La  Viigen  del  Bosario'  (Virgin  with  the  rosary); 
882-886.  Parable  of  the  Prodigal  Son  (sketches  for  the  pictures  at 
Stafford  House  in  London).  865.  St.  John  the  Baptist  when  a 
child ;  859.  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds,  an  early  work;  880.  Immacu- 
late Conception ;  868.  Vision  of  St  Bernard ;  *878.  Immaculate  Con- 
ception, the  best  example  of  the  master  in  the  gallery;  872.  St.  Anna 
teaching  the  Virgin;  ♦854.  Holy  Family  (*del  Pajarito*),  an  early 
masterpiece,  showing  the  influence  of  Ribera;  857  (?),  Repentant 
Magdalen ;  877.  Immaculate  Conception ;  890.  St.  Francis  de  Paula. 
We  now  return  to  the  middle  of  the  gallery  and  enter  (left)  the 
Saloon  op  Qubsn  Isabblla  II.  (PI.  13),  in  which,  as  in  the  Tribuna 
and  the  Salon  Carrtf,  BLkSTBRPiscBS  oi  Etbbt  School  are  collected. 
To  the  right:  *236.  Titian,  Madonna  with  SS.  Ulfns  and  Bridget, 
an  early  work ;  *1092.  Velatquety  Court  Jester,  usually  known  as 
the  'Actor*;  *i336.  Van  Dyefe,  Betrayal  of  Christ,  a  masterpiece  of 
dignity  and  lifelike  vigour,  painted  in  the  early  period  of  the 
master,  under  the  influence  of  Rubens.  —  *^1058.  Velazques,  The 
'Borrachos',  a  group  of  peasants  parodying  a  festival  of  Bacchus. 
This  well-known  masterpiece  of  his  youth  (ca.  1628),  though  now 
somewhat  heavy  and  opaque  in  colouring,  is  yet  a  work  of  wonderful 
vitality,  exhibiting  a  marvellous  touch  in  plastic  effect.  —  *1584. 
RubenSy  Perseus  and  Andromeda,  finished  after  the  death  of  Rubens 
by  JbrrfoCTis;  ♦1992.  Claude Lorralnj  Morning;  850.  Morales,  Virgin 
and  Child;  1398.  Master  of  the  Death  of  the  Virgin  (not  Holbein  the 
Younger),  Portrait  of  a  man;  1033.  8anehe%  Coello,  Dofia  Isabel, 
daughter  of  Philip  II. ;  1544.  Benibrandt,  Queen  Artemisia,  an  early 
work  (1634);  Van  Dyck,  1330.  Portraito  of  the  artist  and  the  Earl 
of  Bristol,  *1320.  Portrait  of  D.  Ryckaert,  the  painter;  ♦1611. 
Rubens,  The  Garden  of  Love,  a  festival  of  patrician  families  of 
Antwerp,  a  work  of  singular  charm,  dating  from  the  last  period  of 
the  master  and  well  known  through  an  early  copy  in  the  Dresden 
Gallery  (smaller  original  repUca  now  owned  by  Baron  Rothschild 
of  Paris,  formerly  in  the  collection  of  the  Duke  of  Pastrana);  2051. 
Nie.  Poussin,  Hunt  of  Meleager;  1606.  Rubens,  Queen  Maria  de' 


78    Route  8,  MADRID.  h.  Museo 

Medici;  ♦1827.  Van  Dyeic^  Count  Henry  of  Berg;  1133.  Zwharan, 
Infant  Jesus  asleep  on  the  Cross ;  108.  Vincenxo  Catenaj  St.  Peter 
receiving  the  keys ;  248.  Guercino^  St.  Peter  freed  from  prison  by 
the  angel;  411.  Jacopo  Tintoretto,  Sebastiano  Veniero,  the  Venetian 
general ;  388.  Andrea  del  SartOy  Portrait  of  his  wife  Lucrezia  del 
Fede ;  1385.  Jan  Qoasaert,  Virgin  and  Child ;  477.  Titian,  Portrait 
of  himself  at  an  advanced  age;  *132.  Correggio,  Christ  and  the 
Magdalen,  an  early  work  in  a  very  attractive  landscape;  1120.  Zur- 
haran\  Vision  of  San  Pedro  Nolasco;  1171.  Herri  met  de  Bles, 
Triptych  with  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  the  Queen  of  Sheba,  and 
King  Herod;  1086.  VeUuqxiet,  Half-length  portrait  of  the  artistes 
wife  (daughter  of  the  painter  Pacheco).  —  TiUan,  ♦450.  Bacchan- 
alian Scene,  full  of  sensuous  charm,  but  so  damaged  in  its  colour 
that  it  is  no  longer  on  a  par  with  its  pendant  No.  451  (see  below) ; 
♦465.  Venus  and  Adonis,  painted  for  Philip  II. ;  ^464.  Full-length 
portrait  of  the  young  Philip  II.  —  396.  Sebastiano  del  PiombOj  Bear- 
ing of  the  Cross;  333.  Parmigianino ,  A  lady  and  her  three  child- 
ren; ♦♦364.  Raphael,  Holy  Family,  a  small  gem,  wonderfully  minute 
and  careful  in  execution  and  charming  in  its  bright  colouring 
(dated  1507);  ^1316.  Durer,  Portrait  of  himself  at  the  age  of 
twenty-six,  a  charmingly  naive  representation  of  the  handsome  and 
amiable  features  of  the  master,  with  a  view  of  an  Alpine  landscape 
(1497);  ♦SGS.  Raphael,  'Madonna  del  Pesce',  a  work  of  warm  and 
vigorous  colouring,  entirely  by  the  master's  own  hand  and  akin  in 
style  to  the  Sistine  Madonna;  1063.  Velazqtiez,  Mercury  and  Argus, 
a  study  of  Spanish  peasants ;  ^136.  Correggio^  Holy  Family,  an  early 
work,  painted  at  Ferrara;  1317.  Durer,  Portrait,  painted  in  the 
Netherlands  in  1521.  —♦369.  Raphael,  Holy  Family,  known  as  'La 
Perl  a',  because  Philip  IV.,  who  bought  it  from  the  collection  of 
Charles,  I.  of  England  for  2000^.,  called  it  the  'pearl  of  his  Raphaels'. 
It  was  probably  executed  by  pupils  from  a  design  or  cartoon  by 
Raphael  himself.  —  332.  Farmigiammo ,  Portrait  of  a  man,  the 
companion-piece  to  No.  333  (see  above) ;  *463.  Titian,  Full-length 
portrait  of  £mp.  Charles  V.,  painted  at  Augsburg  in  1532. 

♦♦451.  Titian,  'La  Fecundidad',  or  Worship  of  the  Goddess  of 
Fertility.  Like  No.  450  (see  above)  this  is  one  of  the  celebrated 
series  painted  about  1520  for  Alfonso  I.  of  Ferrara.  The  picture 
Is  glowing  Mrith  colour,  and  never  were  children  painted  at  once  so 
charming  and  so  naive,  so  varied  and  so  beautiful,  as  those  rosy 
and  frolicsome  putti. 

626.  Paolo  Veronese,  Venus  and  Adonis;  1076.  Velatquje%, 
Don  Fernando,  brother  of  Philip  IV.,  in  hunting  dress  (ca.  1628) ; 
295.  Andrea  Mantegna,  Death  of  the  Virgin,  with  view  of  Mantua ; 
♦367.  Raphael,  Portrait  of  a  cardinal,  finely  individualized  and 
very  delicate  in  colouring;  ^1410.  Jordaens,  Family  Group,  an 
attractive  and  finely  painted  masterpiece;  533.  Paolo  Veronese, 
"binding  of  Moses;  ♦341.  Oiorgione  (not  Pordenone),   Virgin  and 


delPirado.  MADRID.  8.  RouU,    79 

Child  with  SS.  Roehos  and  Antony  of  Padaa,  an  Interetting  though 
unfinished  work  of  the  great  folourist,  closely  resembling  his  master* 
piece  atCastelfranco;  862.  MuriUo,  Virgin  and  Child;  1322.  Van 
Dyek,  Countess  of  Oxford;  *1091.  Velasquet,  Martfnez  Montailtfs, 
the  sculptor,  full  of  expression  and  remarkable  for  the  lucid  tone 
of  the  light^green  colouring;  982.  Biberay  Jacob's  Dream;  **106i. 
Vdatqut%y  *La8  Hilanderas',  or  tapestry-veavers  of  Madrid,  a  cel- 
ebrated and  finely  coloured  masterpiece  of  his  third  period;  1407. 
Jord(iai$^  Atalanta  and  Meleager;  879.  MuHUoy  Immaculate  Con- 
ception; *1484.  Sir  A.  More,  Queen  Mary  of  England,  wife  of 
Philip  IL,  one  of  the  painter's  maaterpieces.  —  *987.  Atiera,  St. 
Peter  delivered  from  prison  by  the  angel;  866.  MurillOy  Youthful 
Saviour  and  John  the  Raptist,  usually  known  as  ^Los  Nifios  de  la 
Concha*  ('the  children  of  the  sheir).  -^  1084.  yaaaqu£%,  JnfanU 
Delia  Maria  Teresa,  daughter  of  Philip  lY.;  1352,  1363.  In  the 
style  of  Roger  van  der  Weyden,  Meister  Heinrich  of  Werlis  in  a 
room  with  the  Virgin  and  St.  John ;  1989.  Claude  Lorrain,  Moun- 
tainous landscape;  *1057.  VeUuque%y  SS.  Paul  and  Antony,  the 
hermits,  with  a  fascinating  and  splendidly  handled  landscape  (third 
period;  1669);  288.  Lorenso  XoMo,  The  betrothal ;  ibQ6.  Bubena, 
St.  G-eorge  and  the  Dragon,  a  somewhat  baroque  composition  (ca. 
1609);  60.  Owvanni  BellitU,  Madonna  and  saints;  1361a.  Hubert 
van  Eyek  (?),  Christ,  the  Virgin,  and  John  the  Baptist  (half-figures) ; 
690.  Juan  de  Carreno,  Count  Potemkin,  Russian  ambassador  to 
Spain.  —  In  the  middle  of  the  room  is  a  fine  table  inlaid  with  Flor- 
entine mosaics,  presented  (along  with  others)  to  Philip  II.  by 
Pope  Pius  V.  after  the  battle  of  Lepanto. 

We  now  return  to  the  Long  Gallx&t  (PI.  12)  to  yiew  the  S. 
end  of  it,  containing  Italian  Wobks  op  the  16-17th  Cbntubies.  In 
the  middle  of  the  gallery  stands  a  mosaic  table  resembling  that  just 
mentioned;  and  near  it  are  two  show-cases  containing  objects  in  cut 
crystal ,  precious  stones ,  and  metal,  few  of  high  value.  -—  Left 
Wall:  TiUan,  470.  King  Philip  II.  dedicating  his  infant  son  to 
Victory  after  the  battle  of  Lepanto,  a  somewhat  unsuccessful  allegory, 
painted  by  the  master  in  his  9l8t  year,  but  still  showing  some  fine 
colouring;  459.  Venus  listening  to  a  young  musician,  probably  a 
replica  by  the  master  himself  of  No.  460  (p.  78),  formerly  in  the 
collection  of  Charles  I.  of  England ;  *476.  Allegorical  represent- 
ation of  Spain  as  the  shelter  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church,  very 
attractive  in  colouring;  ♦471.  The  Marquis  del  Vast©  addressing 
Ms  troops,  vigorously  coloured  (ca.  1540) ;  ♦466.  Adam  and  Eve, 
of  glowing  colour  (ca.  1640) ;  485.  Isabella  of  Portugal,  wife  of 
Charles  V. ;  ^457.  Portrait  of  Charles  V.,  a  masterpiece  of  colouring, 
representing  the  emperor  as  the  victor  of  Mtihlberg,  mounted  on  a 
black  horse  and  clad  in  full  armour;  ^462.  Alfonso  I.,  Duke  of 
Ferrara,  a  carefully  executed  masterpiece  of  portraiture  (ca.  1516); 
469.  St.  Margaret  overcoming  the  Dragon  with  the  Cross.  —  630. 


80     RouU  8.  MADRID.  b.  Mtaeo 

Paolo  Veronesey  Martyrdom  of  St.  Genesius,  an  effective  composition 
with  strong  and  glowing  colouring ;  396.  8eb.  del  Piombo,  Ohrist  in 
Hades,  a  studio-piece,  of  the  artist's  Roman  period.  —  488.  Titian, 
Bearing  of  the  Gross,  a  late  work,  finished  hy  Jacopo  Bassano ;  415. 
Jae,  TintorettOj  Moses  and  the  Women  of  Midian  (Numbers,  chap, 
xxxi).  Titian,  468.  Danae,  a  replica  of  the  picture  at  Naples, 
painted  for  Philip  II.  by  the  artist  himself;  472.  Rest  on  the  Flight 
into  Egypt,  with  a  beautiful  landscape  (late  work,  unftnished).  — 
P.  Veronesey  ♦538.  The  Path  of  Virtue,  a  charming  aUegory;  527. 
Ohrist  disputing  with  the  Doctors,  a  large,  original,  beautifully 
coloured,  and  very  effective  composition  (the  figure  of  the  founder 
perhaps  the  most  attractive  in  the  assemblage).  —  Right  Wall: 
*528.  Paolo  Veronese,  Jesus  and  the  Centurion  of  Capernaum,  a 
work  of  considerable  size  and  beautiful  colouring.  Titian,  489. 
Half**figure  of  Christ,  a  relic  of  a  masterpiece  ('Noli  me  tangere') 
of  his  middle  period,  damaged  by  fire  (old  copy  in  the  Escorial); 
475.  Mater  Dolorosa,  of  his  middle  period^  467,  468.  £cce  Homo, 
Mater  Dolorosa,  both  painted  for  Charles  V.;  490.  Betrayal  of 
Christ  (latest  period).  —  260.  Otddo  Beni,  St.  Sebastian.  —  Tin-* 
toretio,  410.  Naval  battle,  highly  picturesque  and  original  in  effect; 
428.  Last  Judgment,  a  small  replica  of  the  mammoth  work  in  the 
Doge's  Palace ;  436.  Judith  and  Holofemes.  —  478.  Lor.  Lotto  (not 
Titian),  St.  Jerome  (damaged);  342.  Bernardino  Licinio  da  Por- 
d€none,  Portrait.  —  ♦462.  Titian,  Apotheosis  of  Charles  V.,  known 
as  'La  Gloria',  painted  for  Charles  Y.  in  1550.  The  emperor  and 
his  wife,  along  with  his  son  PhUip  and  his  wife,  are  represented 
among  the  souls  of  the  saved.  The  work  has  a  strong  picturesque 
charm  and  is  very  painstaking  in  execution ;  the  drawing  is  strongly 
influenced  by  Michael  Angelo. — 385.  Andrea  del  8arto,  Virgin  and 
Child.  —  Raphael,  ♦♦366.  Bearing  of  the  Cross,  known  as  the  'Spa- 
simo  de  Sicilia'  (Spanish  'El  Pasmo  de  Sicilia'),  a  masterpiece  of 
composition,  expression,  and  individuality,  originally  executed 
(partly  by  pupils)  for  a  church  at  Palermo;  368.  Visitation,  an  un- 
satisfactory composition,  executed  by  pupils. 

We  now  return  to  the  end  of  the  Long  Gallery  and  enter  the 
Fbbnch  Room  (PI.  14),  the  most  notable  contents  of  which  are  a 
series  of  works  by  Nicolas  Poussin  (some  of  them  very  fine),  a  round 
dozen  by  Claude  Lorraiu  (mostly  unimportant),  and  two  charming 
specimens  of  Watteau.  Nicolas  Pottssin:  to  the  left,  2041.  David 
victorious  over  Goliath ;  2043.  Parnassus ;  2042.  Bacchanalian  scene ; 
2050.  Wooded  landscape.  —  Claude  Lorrain:  to  the  left,  1986. 
Finding  of  Moses;  to  the  right,  .1987.  Sunrise  at  Ostia.  —  A.  Wat- 
temi:  to  the  left,  2083.  Al  fresco  ball;  to  the  right,  2084.  Fete 
Champ^tre  in  the  gardens  of  St.  Cloud. 

To  the  right  and  left  of  the  French  Room,  opening  off  narrow 
stridors,  are  the  Cabinets  of  the  Flbmish  and  Dutch  Mastsrs. 
e  first  enter  those  to  the  W.  (right). 


del  Prado.  MADRID.  8,  R(nUe.    81 

Cabikbt  21.  No.  1609.  Rubenty  Sir  Thomas  More,  after  an  old 
master  (perhaps  Holbein);  1485.  Sir  A,  More,  Queen  Catharine  of 
Portugal ;  1406.  JordaenM^  Marriage  of  >t.  Catharine. — RubeM^  ♦1661. 
Holy  Family,  a  work  of  hia  last  period,  acquired  from  hit  heirs ; 
1686.  Ceres  and  Pomona.  —  We  now  turn  to  the  left  and  enter  — 

CABnniT22.  JonFyt,  1370.  Still-life;  1372.  Ducks  and  eagle. 
—  1278,  1277.  J.BrueghH,  Rustic  weddings ;  1833.  Fh,  Wouvtr- 
man.  Sportsmen  resting;  *1441.  Mettu^  Dead  cock;  1666.  BubenSj 
Rudolf  of  Hapsburg  helping  a  priest  across  a  river  (unfinished). 

Cabinbt  23.  Rubena,  **1668.  The  Brazen  Serpent,  one  of  the 
greatest  works  of  the  master  in  the  expression  of  religious  enthusiasm, 
strength  and  depth  of  tone,  and  delicacy  of  chiaroscuro  (painted 
about  1626-30);  1660.  Holy  Family;  ♦1587.  Vintage  Scene  with 
nymphs  and  satyrs,  a  charming  fancy  in  his  latest  manner ;  1612. 
Peasants  dancing;  1610.  Portrait;  ♦1669.  Adoration  of  the  Magi, 
painted  in  1609,  on  his  return  from  Italy.  —  1391,  1392.  J.  D.  de 
Heem,  StllMlfe.  On  the  window-wall:  •1614.  Ruberu,  Rape  of 
Europa,  a  copy  of  Titlan*8  painting  in  the  collection  of  Lord  Darnley 
(formerly  in  Madrid).  —  We  now  return  through  Cab.  21  to  — 

Cabinet  24.  Nos.  1489,  1490,  1491.  Sir  A.  More,  Portraits; 
1502,  1604.  P.  NeelfBj  Church-interiors;  ♦1719.  Tenters  the  Younger, 
Archduke  Leopold  at  a  rustic  festival  (1647);  1218, 1219.  A.Brouwer^ 
Tavern-scenes;  1731.  Teniers,  Kitchen  (1643);  1834.  P^.  Wouvtr- 
mem.  Stable.  —  Teniers,  1729.  The  smokers  (under  the  Influence  of 
Brouwer;  1639);  1756,  1764.  Temptation  of  St.  Antony.  On  the 
window-wall:  1663.  Rubens,  Pieti. 

Cabinet  25.  Van  Dyck,  ♦1328.  Portrait  of  an  Italian  musician  ; 
1324.  Princess  Amelia  of  Solms.  —  1831,  1830.  PK  Wouverman, 
Hunting-scenes;  1686.  Rubens,  Diana  and  her  nymphs  surprized  by 
satyrs ;  1258.  J.  Brueffhel,  Flowers.  —  Van  Dyck,  1323.  Prince  Henry 
of  Nassau;  1321.  Cardinal  Infante  Don  Ferdiriand  (1634);  1319. 
Mocking  of  Christ.  —  1836.    Wouvermany  Halt  of  hunters. 

We  now  return  through  the  narrow  passage  to  the  right  to  the  — 

PoBTKAiT  RooH  (Pi.  20),  wMch  contains  early  portraits  of  the 
Bourbon  family  by  Raphtul  Mengs,  Van  Loo  (Philip  Y.  and  his 
family) ,  and  others ,  and  an  allegorical  picture  (no  number)  by 
Corrado  OiaquSnto(Jii9tiQe  and  Peace  conquering  Discord). — Thence 
we  proceed  to  the  cabinets  to  the  E.  of  the  French  Boom. 

Cabinet  15.  Sir  A,  More,  1487,  1486.  Emperor  Maximilian  II. 
and  his  wife;  to  the  left,  1493.  Two  ladies.  —  1279.  Jan  Brueghel, 
Flemish  fair.  On  the  window-wall  (very  badly  lighted):  ♦♦1590. 
^u^iNW,  Judgment  of  Paris,  a  brilliant  example  of  the  artist's  masterly 
treatment  of  the  nude,  painted  with  the  most  minute  care  for  Philip  IV. 
We  then  turn  to  the  right  into  — 

Cabinbt  16.  1488.  Sir  A.  More,  Princess  Johanna  of  Austria, 
daughter  of  Charles  V. ;  1594.  Rubens,  Mercury  and  Argns ;  1535. 
F,  Pourbus  the  Younger ^  Anna  of  Austria,  wife  of  Louis  XIII. 

Basdskbs's  Spain.  6 


82    Route  8.  MADRID.  5.  Mmeo 

Cabinet  17.  Bubens,  *1592.  Diana  and  Oallisto,  a  masterpiece 
(damaged);  •1683.  Galydonian  Hunt,  with  a  splendid  wooded  land- 
scape; ♦1591.  The  Graces,  an  admlrahle  work  in  his  latest  manner ; 
1613.  Adam  and  Eve,  a  copy  of  the  picture  hy  Titian  mentioned  at 
p.  79;  *1608.  Equestrian  portrait  of  the  Cardinal  Infante  Don 
Ferdinand  at  the  battle  of  Nordlingen.   We  now  return  to  — 

Cabinet  18.  N.  Wall:  1747.  Tenters,  Archduke  Leopold  Wil- 
liam, Stadtholder  of  the  Netherlands,  in  his  picture-gallery  at 
Brussels,  of  which  Teniers  was  the  keeper.  Window-wall:  1264, 
1265.  J,  Bmeghd,  Views  of  a  Flemish  park  of  the  Infanta  Isabella. 

Cabinet  19.  J.  Brueghel,  1280.  Large  Flemish  landscape  with 
cattle;  1228-1232.  The  Senses,  five  small  and  minutely  executed 
landscapes  and  interiors,  with  accessories  by  BvJbens  (1617). 

From  the  corridor  in  front  of  these  cabinets  the  staircase  ascends 
to  the  Collection  of  Old  Drawings.  With  the  exception  of  a  few 
genuine  works  by  Alonso  Cano,  these  are  of  little  importance;  there 
are  no  authentic  specimens  of  either  Velazquez  or  Murillo.  —  In  the 
second  room,  to  the  left,  is  a  fine  modem  Roman  mosaic  after  a 
painting  by  Murillo. 

We  now  return  to  the  staircase  and  descend  to  the  Ground  Floor, 
where,  to  the  right,  are  four  rooms  containing  a  Collection  of  Paint- 
ings by  Francisco  Ooya  (p.  Ixxxiii),  placed  here  in  1896.  Rooms  I 
and  II  (to  the  right) :  Decorative  paintings  of  scenes  from  Spanish 
life,  originally  intended  to  serve  as  models  for  tapestry ;  also  pen- 
and-ink  and  crayon  drawings  of  similar  themes.  —  Rooms  III  and 
IV  (to  the  left) :  Portraits  of  King  Charles  IV.  and  his  wife  Maria 
Louisa;  Popular  Festival  on  the  Pradera  de  San  Bidro  (p.  59); 
2061.  Portrait  of  Franc.  Bayeu,  the  painter;  2165.  Crucifixion; 
736.  Charles  IV.  with  his  family.  Nos.  ♦734.  (Execution  of  Spanish 
citizens)  and  *735.  (Combat  with  French  Mamelukes) ,  two  large 
paintings  of  scenes  firom  the  rising  against  the  French  in  May, 
1808,  are  specially  notable  for  their  yiyid  realism  and  vigorous  con- 
ception. 

On  leaving  these  rooms,  we  turn  to  the  right  and  enter  the 
Sculpture  G-allery,  which ,  though  much  less  important  than  the 
Picture  Gallery ,  should  not  be  neglected.  It  contains  some  good 
Renaissance  works  and  a  number  of  antiques,  several  of  which  are 
of  the  first  rank.   There  is  no  catalogue. 

Rotunda.  Group  of  Wrestlers,  in  porphyry,  of  unknown  origin. 
—  The  Passage  to  Room  I  contains  a  bronze  copy  of  the  Borghese 
Hermaphrodite  (now  in  the  Louvre),  brought  from  Rome  in  1650  by 
Velazquez,  along  with  the  Thorn  Extractor,  the  Venus,  and  other 
bronzes  in  the  second  and  third  rooms. 

Room  I,  a  long  gallery  containing  the  Renaissance  Sculptures. 
By  the  entrance  are  marble  medallions  of  Charles  V.  and  his  wife  Isa- 
bella of  Portugal,  in  richly  carved  frames.   In  the  middle  of  the  room 


delBrado.  MADRID.  8,  RouU.    83 

ftTe  some  fine  works  by  Pompto  Leonij  including  a  bronze  bust  of 
Charles  T.,  bronze  statues  of  Philip  U.  and  Isabella  of  Portugal, 
and  a  bronze  'Group  representing  Oharles  V.  conquering  Tunis,  or 
the  trinmph  of  Tirtue  oyer  Rage  (below  the  loosely  worn  armour  is 
visible  the  finely  executed  nude  body).  Adjacent  is  an  alabaster  bust 
of  Philip  II.  —  By  the  side-wall  are  marble  statues  of  Charles  Y. 
and  Isabella  of  Portugal,  a  bronze  statue  of  Queen  Maria  of  Austria, 
by  Pompeo  Leaniy  and  a  marble  buat  of  Princess  Leonora,  sister  of 
Charles  V.  and  wife  of  Francis  I.  of  France. 

RooH  11:  Antique  Sculptures.  In  the  middle:  Thorn  Extractor^ 
in  bronze  (original  in  the  Oapitoline  Museum;  see  p.  82);  Sleeping 
Ariadne  (marble) ;  Seated  Nymph ,  with  shell  (bronze) ;  Circular  Altar. 

—  By  the  walls  are  numerous  BusU  of  Roman  Emperoft.  At  the 
exit  are  two  Roman  Suits  of  Armour  in  alabaster  and  gilded  bronze. 

—  We  now  pass  through  a  Rotunda,  the  rooms  adjoining  which  con- 
tain some  ancient  V<we«,  and  pass  to  the  right  into  the  — 

Sala  Otalada,  below  the  Sal6n  de  Isabel  Segunda  (p.  77), 
which  contains  the  continuation  of  the  oollection  of  antiques.  Ad- 
joining the  door,  two  good  Reliefs,  with  boars.  To  the  right :  Statue  of 
Mnemosyne,  once  belonging,  together  with  the  other  statues  of 
Muses  (one  of  them  modem),  to  Queen  Christina  of  Sweden ;  Oany^ 
mede  and  the  eagle;  Cowering  Venus ;  Satyr  resting,  after  Praxiteles ; 
so-called  *  Group  of  San  Ildefonso  (Orestes  and  Pylades?  Sleep  and 
Death?),  from  the  collection  of  Queen  Christina  of  Sweden ;  statuette 
of  hUnervOy  a  reduced  copy  of  the  Athena  Parthenos  of  Phidias ; 
double-henna  of  a  youth  and  a  woman  (perhaps  Sappho?);  four 
reliefs  of  Dancing  Bacchantes;  *  Statue  of  Hypnos^  the  God  of  Sleep, 
copy  of  a  Greek  work  of  the  4th  cent.  B.  0. ;  statue  of  an  Athlete^ 
a  replica  of  the  so-called  Diadnmenos  of  Polycletus  (right  arm 
wrongly  restored);  bust  of  Antinous;  *Torso  of  Vcnua,  in  the  atti- 
tude of  the  Venus  of  Milo;  double-herma  of  two  bearded  Qretks 
(Thales  and  Bias?  Epicurus  and  Metrodorus?);  Bust  of  CiserOj  a 
modem  copy  of  the  celebrated  Mattel  bust,  now  belonging  to  the 
Dnke  of  Wellington,  upon  an  antique  pedestal  (inscription :  M.  Cicero 
an.  Lxnn). 

Another  room  contained  the  modern  sculptures,  which  hare 
lately  been  transferred  to  the  National  Museum  "(p.  90). 

The  Plaza  db  Mubillo  (PI.  n ;  H,  8),  on  the  S.  side  of  the  Prado 
Museum,  is  embellished  with  pleasure-grounds  and  a  bronze  Status 
ofMuriOo  by  S.  Medina  (1871),  a  replica  of  that  in  Seville  (p.  414). 

The  Botanie  Garden  (PI.  H,  9;  adm.,  see  p.  61;  main  en- 
trance in  the  Plaza  de  Murillo),  founded  in  1774,  contains  a  number 
of  beantifol  trees  and  shrubs ;  but,  owing  to  the  severity  of  the 
Madrid  climate,  it  cannot  compare  with  the  Jardln  Botanico  of  Va- 
lencia, the  gardens  of  Seville,  or  the  botanical  gardens  of  Portugal. 
By  the  entrance  are  some  fine  BobinisB;  farther  on  are  shady  avenue 

6* 


84    Route  8,  MA.DRID.  c.  Buen  Betiro. 

of  elms,  intermingled  with  trees  of  all  zones.  Many  of  the  trees 
are  covered  with  Ivy  from  top  to  bottom.  The  hot-houses  (estufas) 
lie  on  the  N.  and  E.  sides  of  the  garden.  The  long  avenne,  begin- 
ning to  the  left  of  the  entrance  and  intersecting  the  garden  from  N. 
to  S.,  is  adorned  with  statues  of  QtuTj  Clemente^  Liigcuca,  and 
Cavanille6y  four  eminent  Spanish  botanists. 

On  the  S.  the  Paseo  del  Prado  (p.  69)  ends  at  the  large  open 
space  in  front  of  the  Estacidn  del  Mediodfa  (p.  107). 

c.  Buen  Betiro  Park.  East  Quarters  of  the  City. 

On  the  hill  to  the  £.  of  the  long  Galle  de  Alfonso  Doce,  which 
reaches  from  the  Paseo  de  Atocha  (p.  107)  on  the  S.  to  the  Plaza  de 
la  Independencia  (p.  86)  on  the  N..  lies  the  — 

*Buen  Betiro  ('pleasant  retreat),  now  (since  1869)  named  the 
Parque  de  Madrid  (PI.  I,  K,  7,  8,  9),  a  pleasure-ground  260  acres  in 
extent,  with  shady  walks  and  alleys,  carriage-drives,  riding-paths, 
ponds,  fountains,  and  statuary.  There  are  four  main  entrances.  That 
opposite  the  Museo  de  Reproducciones  (p.  69)  leads  to  the  former 
Jardinea  Beservados,  a  fine  parterre  with  a  Monument  to  Benavente 
(d.  1885),  a  celebrated  children's  physician.  The  Paseo  de  laa  Eetd- 
ttuu  (PI.  II ;  I,  7,  8),  with  its  twelve  statues  of  Spanish  monarchs 
(p.  96),  and  the  wide  Main  Avenue^  beginning  at  the  Plaza  de  la 
Independencia  (p.  85;  PI.  H,  I,  7),  lead  direct  to  the  Estanque 
Grande  (see  below).  Carriages  enter  from  the  Calle  de  Ylcalvaro 
(PLUjK,  6,  7). 

The  centre  of  the  park  is  occupied  by  the  Estanque  Qrande  (PI.  I ; 
7,  8),  a  small  artificial  lake,  surrounded  by  four  water-wheels 
(n6rias)  and  used  for  boating  and  skating.  At  the  N.  end  is  a  Caf£ 
Beatawrant,  The  best  of  the  numerous  fountains  are  the  Fujente  de 
los  Oaldpagos  (tortoises'),  the  Fuente  de  la  Alcachofa  (^artichoke'), 
and  the  Fuente  del  Angel  Cafdo,  with  a  statne  of  the  ^Fallen  AngeV, 
by  Ricardo  Bellver. 

To  the  S.E.  of  the  Estanque  Grande,  in  an  enclosed  part  of  the 
park,  is  the  Musbo  y  Bibliotboa  db  Ultaamar  (PI.  I,  K,  8;  adm., 
see  p.  61),  a  collection  of  objects  from  the  Philippine  Islands  and 
other  Spanish  colonies.  Connected  with  it  is  a  small  library.  A 
little  to  the  S.  is  the  Palacio  del  Oristdl,  used  for  exhibitions.  —  On 
the  E.  edge  of  the  park  is  the  Casa  de  Fieras^  with  a  small  Zoological 
Oarden  (adm.  50  c).  —  The  broad  Paseo  de  Feman  Nune%  (PI.  II ; 
K,  8)  is  the  scene  of  the  afternoon  corso  of  the  Madrid  aristocracy 
(6-7;  in  winter  3-5;  comp.  p.  60).  —  At  the  N.E.  corner  of  the 
park  is  the  MontSna  Bu^a^  an  artificial  hill  with  a  belvedere  (not 
accessible  at  present).  To  the  S.  of  this  are  the  remains  of  the 
CapiUa  de  San  Itidro^  a  Romanesque  structure  of  the  14th  cent., 
brought  from  Avila  and  re-erected  here  in  1896. 

Like  all  the  similar  creations  of  the  17th  ceut.,  the  Buen  Retiro 
is  by  no  means  without  its  history ;  indeed  its  name  is  more  than 


Eak  Quartert,  MADRID.  S,  Routt,     85 

commonly  involved  irith  great  political  events.  Philip  II.  built  a 
cooiitry-hoase  for  his  English  queen  in  the  style  of  a  Norman  castle. 
This  stood  beyond  the  convent  of  San  Jer6uimo  and  was  after- 
wards (1631)  rebuilt  by  the  Gonde-Duque  de  Olivares,  the  favourite 
of  Philip  IV.,  who  laid  out  around  it  the  gardens  of  Bueu  Betlro. 
Lope  de  Vega  supplied  a  poem  to  celebrate  the  opening  of  the  new 
villa.  The  so-called  Old  Palace  (now  the  Artillery  Museum ;  p.  68),  • 
the  Casdfi  beyond  it,  and  the  Estanqut  were  later  creations.  In  the 
Palace  of  Buen  Retiro  lived  Philip  IV  PhUlp  V.,  Ferdinand  IV., 
and  Charles  IH.  (till  1764;  comp.  p.  96).  It  was  the  scene  of  in- 
numerable extravagant  festivals,  which  swallowed  millions  of  money 
and  gave  rise  to  many  biting  pasquinas  and  eopUu : 

*^Bvenos  €$ldn  l<u  fardles.  Fine  are  the  lights, 

La  pkuMela  y  plateado}  The  square  and  the  silver^ 

Medio  millcn  se  ha  gaiAado  Half-a-million  has  been   squandered 

Solamenle  en  earaedlet'.  On  the  shell-works  alone. 

Again,  in  a  bitterer  vein : 

*^£ey  inocenie,  A  simple  king, 

Beina  Uraidora^  A  treacherous  queen, 

ISid>lo  eeharde^  A  cowardly  people, 

Grandes  tin  hc»ra\  Grandees  without  honour. 

The  French  selected  the  Buen  Retiro  for  part  of  their  fortifica- 
tions at  the  beginning  of  the  present  century.  These  were,  however, 
removed  by  the  victorious  British,  who  also  destroyed  the  famous 
Casa  de  la  China,  or  porcelain  factory,  the  beautiful  products  of 
which  are  still  found  scattered  among  the  Spanish  museums.  Fer- 
dinand VII.  restored  the  Buen  Retiro. 

To  the  K.W.  of  the  Buen  Retiro  lies  the  circular  Flaia  de  la 
Independinoia  (PI.  H,  I,  7),  which  is  surrounded  by  handsome 
private  residences.  In  the  middle  stands  the  old  Puerta  de  Alcalde 
a  triumphal  gateway  erected  in  1778  by  Sabatini,  the  Italian  ar- 
chitect of  Charles  III.  The  gate  was  much  damaged  by  the  French 
bombardment  of  the  Retiro  on  Dec.  3rd,  1808,  and  still  bears  the 
marks  of  the  cannon-balls  on  its  outer  face.  —  Four  important 
streets  diverge  from  this  plaza:  the  Calle  de  Alcald  to  the  £.  and 
W.;  the  CaUe  de  Ol6taga  to  the  N.W.;  the  Calle  de  Serrano  to  the 
N.,  leading  to  the  new  quarters  of  the  city  and  to  the  National  Mu- 
seum (p.  86);  and  the  CaUe  de  Alfonso  Doce  (p.  84)  to  the  S.  To 
the  S.E.  is  the  main  entrance  to  the  Buen  Retiro  (p.  84). 

In  the  Calle  de  la  Relna  Mercedes,  a  little  to  the  W.  of  the  Plaza 
de  la  Independencia,  is  the  Musso  db  Inoekibros  (PI,  II,  H7j 
adm.,  see  p.  61),  occupying  a  suite  of  rooms  in  the  old  Palacio  de 
San  Juan.  The  collections  include  models  of  fortifications,  trenches, 
and  military  bridges,  samples  of  materials,  camp  utensils,  and  mil- 
itary tools  of  all  kinds. 

The  Calle  db  AlcalI  (PI.  I,  K  6 ;  tramway-line  Ilia,  p.  66), 
skirting  the  N.  side  of  the  Buen  Retiro  Park,  leads  past  the  Statue 
of  EsparterOj  Duque  de  la  Victoria  (PI.  II ;  I,  6,  7),  the  Spanish 


88    Route  8.  MADRID.  d.  National 

cotta  sculptures  from  CaM,  in  Italy,  probably  votive  objects;  Roman 
lamps,  etc.  —  Room  VII,  Large  amphoras  and  other  clay  vessels, 
including  some  specimens  of  the  so-called  red  'Sagunto  Ware';  col- 
lection of  ancient  glass.  —  We  now  pass  the  central  court  and  enter 
the  — 

South  Wing,  which  contains  the  Early  Christian,  Moorish^  and 
other  Mediaeval  Objects  and  the  Modern  Collections.  —  Room  I.  Yis- 
igothic  architectural  fragments  and  inscriptions ;  fine  Romanesque 
capitals ;  Romanesque  font  (pila  hautismal)  from  San  Pedro  de  Villa- 
nueva  (11th  cent.);  early- Christian  and  mediseval  inscriptions  and 
sculptures.  —  Room  II.  Early-Christian  sarcophagi ;  mediaeval  and 
modern  tombstones  and  other  sculptures,  including  the  kneeling 
figure  of  Peter  the  Cruel  (p.  395)  from  his  tomb  in  Santo  Domingo  el 
Real,  in  Madrid,  and  the  monument  of  Aldonca  de  Mendoza  (1435). 
On  the  walls  are  locks  and  keys,  door-knockers  (aldab6nes),  door 
plates,  and  nail-heads.  —  We  descend  to  the  South  Goubt,  contain- 
ing Moorish  monuments  and  Christian  works  in  theMud^jar  style 
(p.  liv).  By  the  walls  are  reproductions  of  Moorish  buildings  in 
Seville,  Cordova,  and  Granada,  two  gates  firom  the  Aljaferia  in  Sara- 
gossa,  a  fragment  from  the  throne-room  of  the  Aljaferfa,  a  gate  from 
Leon,  a  wooden  gate  from  Daroca  (14th  cent.),  and  a  cast  of  the  door 
of  the  old  Capilla  del  Sagrario  in  the  Cathedral  of  Seville.  Among 
the  smaller  objects  are  two  Arab  astrolabes,  one  of  which  is  the  oldest 
extant  (1067);  a  Moorish  sword;  the  keys  of  Oran;  an  ivory  casket 
of  the  11th  cent. ;  Moorish  embroidery,  terracotta  vessels,  fountain 
basins,  tombstones,  and  inscriptions ;  Moorish*  Hanging  Lamp,  once 
belonging,  according  to  the  inscription,  to  a  mosque  built  at  Granada 
by  Mohammed  III.  (1305) ;  cloak  of  the  Infante  Philip,  son  of  Fer- 
dinand the  Saint  (13th  cent.) ;  large  *yase,  resembling  the  celebrated 
vase  of  the  Alhambra  (p.  362);  basin  for  religious  ablutions  from 
Medtnat  az-Zahra  (p.  318),  dating  from  988 ;  collection  of  *azule^ 
Jos',  or  glazed  tiles.  The  cases  contain  a  fine  collection  of  majolica 
dishes.  In  the  middle  of  the  court  are  a  reproduction  of  the  Fountain 
of  the  Lions  at  the  Alhambra;  two  fountains  from  Cordova;  models 
of  the  leaning  tower  (Torre  Nueva;  removed)  at  Saragossa  and  the 
Puerta  del  Sol  at  Toledo.  —  Room  III.  Choir  Stalls  from  the  Convent 
of  Paular  (p.  122),  near  Segovia;  forged  iron  gate  from  Santa  Maria 
in  Madrid ;  vestments,  rotables,  processional  crosses,  and  other  ob- 
jects of  ecclesiastical  art.  By  the  walls  are  several  carved  chests  (ar- 
cones)  of  the  15th  century.  —  Room  IV  (left).  Astrolabe  of  Philip  II. 
(1566);  terracotta  altar  with  coloured  relief  of  the  Assumption,  in 
the  style  of  the  Delia  Robbia  (16th  cent.) ;  altar  with  16  scenes  from 
the  Passion,  enamelled  on  copper  (15th  cent.) ;  majolica  dish  from 
Urbino  (16th  cent.);  crucifix  of  ivory,  inscribed  'FerdinanduB  Rex 
Sancia  Regina'  (11th  cent.);  finely  carved  coffers  (16-17th  cent.); 
model  of  the  Escorial ;  *  Litter  of  the  18th  century.  The  cases 
contain  works  in  ivory,  bronze,    and  other  materials,   crucifixes, 


Mmeum,  MADRID.  8.  RouU.    89 

reliquaries,  and  eeclesiaatical  yessels  of  various  kinds.  —  Room  V. 
The  cases  contain  Spanish  porcelain  from  the  old  factory  at  Buen 
Retiro  and  from  the  Moncloa  (with  interesting  Spanish  costumes  of 
the  18th  cent.) ;  Sevres  and  Dresden  ohina ;  Wedgwood  ware ;  glass 
vessels  from  the  factory  in  San  Ildefonso  (LaGranja);  bronze  sculp- 
tures. On  the  walls  hangs  fine  *Tapestry  of  the  17th  cent.,  with  ani- 
mals and  plants  in  Mgh-relief.  —  Room  YI.  Collection  of  Spanish 
oostames  of  the  18th  and  the  beginning  of  the  19th  century.  —  We 
now  ascend  the  staircase  to  the  — 

FibstFlooh,  which  contains  the  *£t/ino^apMea2  Section  of  the 
Museum.  We  first  turn  to  the  left  and  enter  the  Nobth  Wing.  — 
Room  I.  Reproductions  of  Mexican  sculptures  and  of  the  Maya  sculp- 
tures in  Yucatan  and  Guatemala  (originals  in  Mexico  and  Berlin). 
Among  these  attention  may  be  specially  directed  to  the  large  (so- 
called)  'Aztec  Calendar  Stone'  (end-wall  to  the  left)  and  the  stone 
tables  from  Santa  Lucia  in  Guatemala  (exit- wall).  —  Room  11.  Anti- 
quities of  the  Tainos ,  an  extinct  race  that  inhabited  the  Antilles, 
including  some  curious  stone  rings,  shaped  like  horse-collars  and  of 
unknown  use^  domestic  utensils,  pieces  of  cloth,  flint  tools,  and 
other  objects  found  in  Peruvian  tombs ;  antiquities  from  Quito,  Co- 
lumbia ,  Nicaragua ,  and  Mexico.  In  the  middle  of  the  room  is  a 
reproduction  of  the  so-called  'Aztec  Sacrificial  Stone\  a  votive  mon- 
ument celebrating  the  victories  of  the  Mexican  chief  Tizoc.  — 
Room  III.  Clay  vessels  and  woven  garments  from  Peru.  —  Room  IV. 
By  the  walls :  Peruvian  sceptre  and  other  articles  in  gold ;  Peruvian 
articles  in  copper  and  bronze;  Peruvian  idols  of  silver  and  bronze; 
on  the  N.  wall,  two  ancient  Mexican  feather-shields.  In  the  middle 
of  the  room  are  two  celebrated  ♦Maya  MSS.  (Codice  Troano,  Codice 
Cortesiano),  with  a  facsimile  of  a  third  at  Dresden,  and  also  the 
Tesoro  de  las  Quimbayas,  or  gold  objects  found  in  Columbia  andpre- 
sented  to  Spain  in  1892  (idols,  vessels,  decorated  pins  and  but- 
tons, etc.).  — Room  V.  Objects  from  South  America  (Patagonia,  Peru, 
Ecuador)  and  North  America,  including  a  mask-costume  of  the  Naf\i- 
gos,  a  negro  sect  in  Cuba;  specimens  of  the  industrial  products  of  the 
modern  Indians  of  Central  and  .South  America.  In  the  middle  of 
the  room  is  a  collection  of  figures  of  Mexican  types  of  the  18th  cent. ; 
old  paintings  of  scenes  illustrating  the  story  of  the  discovery  of 
America ;  sand-mosaics  from  North  America,  with  symbolic  represent- 
ations of  religious  ceremonies.  —  We  now  return  to  the  entrance 
room  and  proceed,  past  Room  VI  (modem  terracotta  vessels  from 
Peru)  and  the  Library,  to  the  — 

S.  WiKG.  —  Room  VII.  Turkish,  Persian,  and  Indian  works  of 
art;  Chinese  statues.  In  the  middle  is  a  head  of  Buddha,  from  the 
temple  of  Boro-Budor  in  Java.  —  Room  VIII.  Chinese  objects  in 
porcelain,  bronze,  jade,  and  ivory;  Chinese  festal  garments;  a  few 
Japanese  objects.  —  Room  IX.  By  the  walls  are  exhibits  from  the 
Philippine  Islands  (figures  of  the  18th  cent.)  and  the  Malay  Archi- 


90    Routes,  MADRID.  d.  Nationallibrary. 

pelago  (armour).  In  the  middle  of  the  room  are  *Feather  Cloaks  and 
Helmets  from  the  Sandwich  Islands.  —  Room  X.  Collection  of  Oems 
(piedras  Idbradas  y  camafeot).  Among' the  finest  Is  a  black  ♦Onyx 
(dniee  negrojj  with  the  portrait  of  a  woman ;  a  cameo  (white  opal  and 
blue  chalcedony)  with  the  portrait  of  a  Roman  lady;  and  a  head  of 
Medusa  in  milky  opal  on  blue  agate.  —  Room  XI  (last).  Coins  and 
Medals,  Among  the  former  are  a  gold  coin  of  Arsinoe  and  Berenice ; 
a  silver  coin  of  Annia  Faustina;  some  Carthaginian  drachmae,  half- 
drachmae,  and  double  drachmae,  with  heads  ofHercules  and  elephants; 
a  gold  ten-doubloon  piece  of  Pedro  I.  of  Castile,  2^2  in.  in  diameter 
and  over  IY2  oz.  in  weight.  Among  the  medals  are  a  bronze  medal  by 
Pompeo  Leoni  with  a  portrait  of  Liebana,  secretary  of  Philip  11.  (dia- 
meter 2^/4  in.),  and  a  silver  medal  of  Alfonso  V.  of  Aragon  (1448). 

The  W.  part  of  the  building  contains  the  *Biblioteca  Kacional 
(PI.  H,  6;  adm.,  see  p.  61 ;  entr.  in  thePaseo  deRecoletos),  which 
was  founded  in  1711  by  Philip  V.,  and  increased  in  1886  by  the 
purchase  of  the  Duke  of  Ossuna's  valuable  collection  of  MSS.  It 
now  occupies  35  rooms  and  contains  about  a  million  printed  volumes 
(including  about  2000  incunabula  and  800  editions  of  *Don  Quixote'), 
besides  numerous  old  MSS.  and  documents,  maps,  autographs,  and 
the  like.  Most  of  the  books  are  stored  in  a  separate  building  of  stone 
and  iron,  seven  stories  high.  The  general  reading-room  accommo- 
dates 320  readers,  while  there  is  another  with  desks  for  12  specialists. 

The  most  valuable  posaessions  are  exhibited  in  ahow-caaea.  The  col- 
lection of  AcTOGBAPHS  includes  thoae  of  Lope  de  Yega^  Calderon,  Tirto  de 
MolifMy  Bojas,  and  the  most  prominent  Spaniah  contemporaries  of  the 
'Catholic  Kings'.  —  Among  the  MSS.  are  the  Codex  Toletanm^  or  Bible 
presented  to  the  church  of  Seville  by  Bishop  John  of  Cordova  in  988; 
a  Mozarahic  Bible^  from  Toledo;  the  Fuero  of  Zamora  (1208);  the  finely 
illuminated  Visigothic  Fwro  Juzgo^  from  San  Isidro  in  Leon  (iOth  cent.); 
the  Poema  de  los  Reyes  Magoe  and  Poema  de  Alexandre  (13th  cent.);  the 
Bible  of  Avila  (13-14th  cent.),  with  wonderful  miniatures ;  the  Siete  Partidat 
of  Alfonso  el  JSabio,  from  the  treasures  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella;  the 
Poems  of  Juan  Bmt^  ^Areipreste  de  Hita^  (14th  cent.);  the  Ch'otUca  Troy  ana 
(16th  cent.) ;  the  Libro  de  Agrictdtura  (16th  cent.) ;  the  Traetado  de  Astrologia 
by  Enrique  de  Aragon  (1428) ;  Petrus  Comestor's  Sittoria  Seolastica  (15th  cent.) ; 
Cronica  de  Espafks^  by  Juan  Fernandez  Heredia  (1385);  Qeneahgias  de  los 
Reyes  de  EspcOkt^  by  Aionso  de  Cartagenq  (16th  cent.) ;  La  Cronica  Porluguesa 
de  Don  Juan  /.,  by  Femdn  Lopez  (15th  cent.)i  with  beautiful  miniatures ; 
PetrarehU  Sonette^  Canzoniere^  e  Trionfi  (15th  cent.)  and  TrUmfi  (IGth  cent.), 
both  with  fine  miniatures;  Missal  of  Card.  Ximenet  (1503-18);  drawings  for 
the  Triumph  of  Emp.  Maximilian. 

In  the  SsGOidN  ds  BsvfsTAS  (open  10-4)  about  80  Spanish  and  foreign 
periodicals  are  laid  out  for  the  use  of  visitors.  . 

The  Archive  HiBtorico  Kacional,  on  the  first  floor  of  the  N, 
part  of  the  Palaoio  de  la  Biblioteoa  y  Museos  Nacionales  (PI.  H,  6 ; 
entrance  from  the  Paseo  de  RecoWtos),  contains  about  200,000  doc- 
uments from  Poblet  (p.  238),  Sahagun,  and  other  suppressed  mon- 
asteries, numerous  MSS.  from  the  Cathedral  of  Avila  (among  them  the 
Codex  of  Justinian  in  a  Castilian  translation  of  the  13th  cent.),  eto. 

The  Mnseo  de  Arte  Modemo,  on  the  first  floor  of  the  S.  part  of 


Mod.  Art  Jftweum.  MADRID.  8.  Route.    91 

the  Palaoio  de  la  Biblioteea  y  Mnseos. Naoionales  (PI.  fl,  6;  also 
entered  from  the  Paaeo  de  RecoUtos),  is  dedicated  to  modern  Spanish 
painting  and  soulpture.  At  the  end  of  1897  the  arrangement  of  the 
collection  was  not  yet  finished  and  the  {following  details  are' there- 
fore liable  to  change. 

PAiirnNOs.  —  Room  I.  F,  Madrasoi  General  San  Miguel; 
Vicente  Lope%,  M.  Lopez,  the  painter's  father,  organist  to  the  court ; 
M,  Caatdlanoj  Court  of  the  old  Plaza  de  Toros  of  Madrid,  with  the 
portraits  of  the  celebrated  toreros  Montez  and  Ctichares,  interesting 
on  aoeonnt  of  the  costumes.  —  Room  II.  Agtasotj  Sleeping  shep- 
herdess, Roman  Ciociara;  Mereadi^  Death  of  St.  Francis;  For- 
tuny,  Battle  of  Tetuan  (sketch  for  the  painting  in  Barcelona,  p.  207) ; 
*ForUtny,  The  Queen-Regent  Maria  Christina  and  her  daughter  (Isa- 
bella II.)  inspiring  the  government  troops  to  hold  out  against  the 
Gariists,  who  had  already  advanced  as  far  as  Yallecas,  4  M.  from 
Madrid  (1837);  *F,  FradUla,  Johanna  the  Insane  at  the  coffin  of 
her  husband,  Philip  the  Handsome ;  F.  Domingo j  Duel ;  £.  Ro9aleaj 
Isabella  the  Catholic  dictating  her  will,  Death  of  Lucretla ;  *A.  Oia- 
bertj  Execution  of  General  Torrijos  and  his  companions  (Malaga, 
1831) ;  V.  Caaadoj  The  Bell  of  Huesca  (p.  179).  —  Room  III  (foreign 
artists).  F,  Lenbachy  Infanta  Paz  (Princess  Louis  Ferdinand  of  Ba- 
varia) ^  Rosa  Bonheur^  Lions  fighting;  *Alma  Tadema^  Scene  in 
Pompeii.  —  Room  IV.  *E,  Bala,  The  Grand  Inquisitor  Torquemada 
induces  the  ^Catholic  Kings'  to  refuse  a  present  offered  by  Jewish 
delegates  (expulsion  of  the  Jews  from  Spain,  1492);  *8.  Viniegra, 
Benediction  of  the  fields;  *A,  Vera,  Defence  of  Numantia;  Munoz 
Degrain,  The  *Lovers  of  Teruel'  (p.  93);  ^Degrain,  Landscape;  ^Mar- 
Une%  OubeUs ,  Peter  I.  of  Portugal  compelling  his  vassals  to  do  hom- 
age to  the  corpse  of  Inez  de  Castro ;  Moreno  Carbonero,  Conversion 
of  the  Duque  de  Gandfa;  C.  Flaaenda,  Establishment  of  the  Roman 
Republic ;  M.  Domxngue%y  Death  of  Seneca ;  R,  Madrato,  Arabs ;  A. 
Ferrant,  Entombment  of  St.  Sebastian;  jLuna,  Death  of  Cleopatra; 
RuixLuna,  Battle  of  Trafalgar.  —  Room  V.  *M,ViUega8'Bnebay 
Horrors  of  war;  Vrgdl,  Cemetery,  Village-church;  J.  G'arneto,  Death 
of  Lucan;  Falomo  Anaya,  Death  of  the  Virgin.  —  Room  VI.  *  Hi- 
dalgo CaviedeSj  Rhea  Sylvia ;  J.  Qaertner,  Destruction  of  the  *Invin- 
cible  Armada';  A,  B,  GU^  The  last  news  of  the  lost  son ;  *V.  Cu- 
ianda^  Workmen  striking;  F.  J,  Amerigo,  Right  of  asylum;  Gomez 
Gil,  Moonlight  on  the  sea ;  Avril,  Sea-piece ;  *R.  PuUdo,  Widowed ; 
*C.  Fed,  Domestic  scene ;  M,  Santa  Maria,  Secret  correspondence. 
—  Room  VIL  *A,FiUol,  The  ^Great  Man'  of  the  village  (4a  gloria 
del  pueblo');  *Checa,  Barbarians  invading  Rome;  J.  SoroUa,  A  fall 
from  the  rigging ;  Armesto^  Sardine  fishing;  Gesaa,  Flowers ;  N.  Raw 
rich,  Swamps  of  Nemi ;  J.  Femcmdez  Alvarado,  Sea-piece. 

Among  the  ScfVLPTUBBS,  some  of  which  are  scattered  through 
the  palace  and  others  placed  in  the  picture-rooms,  the  following 
may  be  mentioned,   a.  Spaniards:  J.  Alvarez,  Allegorical  group  - 


92    Route  8.  MADRID,     d.  Pasio  de  la  Cagtellana, 

tlie  defence  of  Saiagossa  by  Palafox  (p.  165) ;  L.  Barrdn,  Yirlathas 
(bionze) ;  J.  (?tn^«,  Venus  and  Cupid ;  E,  Martin,  San  Juan  de  Dios 
carrying  a  sick  man,  Recumbent  Bacchante;  8,  Medina,  Egyptian 
woman  meditating  on  Paganism  and  Christianity,  Recumbent  £ury> 
dice.  F.  Moratillay  Faith,  Hope,  and  Charity ;  Venus  with  the  shell ; 
Bacchus  (bronze) ;  Neapolitan  flsher-boy.  /.  FiquSr,  St.  Jerome  with 
the  lion  (bronze) ;  A.  QuenSl,  Legend  (*La  Tradicion';  bronze);  A, 
VaUmitjanaj  Christ,  St.  George.  -» b.  Foreigners :  Canovaj  Mars  and 
Venus,  Pan ;  B,  Qroa ,  Seated  figures  of  Charles  IV.  and  his  wife 
Maria  Louisa;  TadoUrUj  The  prisoner  OLa  Cautiva').  Tantardinij 
Children  in  the  cradle;  Girl  meditating  ('El  Amor  Rendido') ;  Venus 
(*Am6r  e  Intents');  Veiled  bust  of  Queen  Isabella  II. 

The  Mnseo  de  Cieneias  Katurales,  or  Natural  History  Museum^ 
on  the  groundfloor  of  the  N.  part  of  the  Palacio  de  la  Biblioteca  y 
Museos  Nacionales  (PI.  H,  6),  with  a  special  entrance  firom  the  Paseo 
de  ReooUtos  (to  the  right  of  the  flight  of  steps),  was  founded  as 
early  as  1771  and  contains  a  fine  collection  of  mammalia,  birds, 
fishes,  molluscs,  Crustacea,  minerals,  and  fossils.  Among  the  last 
may  be  mentioned  a  megatherium,  found  in  1789  on  the  Rio  Lujan 
near  Buenos  Ayres,  a  whale's  skull  with  jaw-bones,  found  at  the 
Puente  de  Toledo  near  Madrid,  and  the  remains  of  a  mastodon. 

The  Paseo  de  RecoMtos  ends  at  the  Plaza  db  Colon  (PI.  II ; 
H,  6),  which  contains  a  Statue  of  Columbtts  by  Jeronimo  Suiiol 
(1885).  —  The  FaBOO  de  la  Castellana  (Pl.  I;  H,  5-2),  which  be- 
gins here,  derives  its  name  from  a  spring,  the  water  of  which,  on 
account  of  its  coolness,  Cervantes  characterized  as  'extremadisima'. 
The  spring  rose  near  the  obelisk  mentioned  below.  To  the  right  of 
the  paseo  is  the  Qerman  Embassy  (Embajada  de  Alemania).  —  In 
the  N.  part  of  the  paseo,  beyond  the  Plaza  del  Obelisco  (PI.  I ;  H,  3), 
with  its  modem  Obelisk,  are  an  Equestrian  Statue  of  Marshal  Manuel 
Outierrez  de  la  Concha  (1808-74),  by  Andres  Aleu,  and  a  large 
bronze  *Monument  of  Isabella  the  Catholic  (PI.  I;  H,  2),  by  Manuel 
0ms  (1883).  Adjoining  the  last,  standing  in  a  garden  on  a  height  to  the 
right,  is  the  new  Palacio  de  la  Indu^tria  y  cle  las  Artes  (PI.  I ;  H,  2), 
used  for  the  annual  exhibitions  of  art. —  To  the  N.  the  paseo  ends 
at  the  Hipddromo  (PI.  I,  H,  1,  2 ;  sec  p.  58). 

In  the  Calle  de  Claudio  Coello  is  the  church  of  San  Andres  de 
Ids  Flamencos  (PI.  I ;  I,  4),  the  high-altar-piece  of  which  is  a  large 
♦Painting  by  Rubens  (of  his  latest  period),  representing  the  Cruci- 
fixion of  St.  Andrew  in  presence  of  Mary  Magdalen  and  St.  George  (?). 
Key  of  the  church  kept  by  the  sacristan,  who  lives  adjacent  (1  p. ; 
best  time  for  a  visit,  1  p.m.). 


Among  the  liveliest  streets  in  the  N.  quarters  of  the  town  are  the 
short  Calle  de  la  Monttfra  (PI.  II;  F,  7),  which  runs  to  the  N.E.  from 
the  Puerta  del  Sol  fp.  66),  and  its  continuation  the  Calle  de  Fuen- 


N.  QuarUn,  MADRID.  8.  Routt,    03 

carril  (PI.  H ;  F,  6,  6),  which  is  about  1  M.  in  lenj^th.  To  the  E.  of  the 
latter(No.  6  Galie  de  Saa  Mateo)  ie  the  CoU^  de  Sordo-Mvidot  y  de 
Ciegos(F\.  U ;  O,  6),  or  asylam  for  deaf-mutes  and  the  blind,  founded 
in  1806  (adm.,  see  p.  61).  Beyond  theGlori^to  de  BUbao  [Pl.  I,  ^; 
F,  5)  the  street  ends  at  the  Globibta  db  Qubtbdo  (PI.  I,  F  4 ;  tram- 
way-line  Ha,  p.  56).  —  Here  begins  the  broad  CaUe  de  Bravo  Murillo 
(tramway  lib,  p.  56),  which  ascends  to  the  N.  to  (i/a  M.)  the  — 

Bap^itOB  del  Guud  da  Loioya  (PI.  I,  F  3;  adm.,  see  p.  61), 
the  reserfoirs  from  which  Madrid  Is  supplied  with  drinking-water. 
They  lie  on  both  sides  of  the  street  and  occupy  the  highest  ground 
in  the  city.  The  Old  Btmvoit,  to  the  left,  constructed  in  1858,  is 
embellished  with  a  fountain  and  three  allegorical  figures  referring  to 
the  river  Lozoya.  It  contains  a  supply  of  water  sufficient  for  three 
days  and  is  connected  with  three  ramdlea  or  canals,  two  for  the 
acequfctSy  or  irrigation  channels,  and  one  for  the  aqueduct  of  drink- 
ing-water. The  separation  is  made  at  the  Casa  del  ParUd6r.  The 
New  Beaervoiry  to  the  £.  of  the  street,  completed  in  1883,  is  in  the 
form  of  a  huge  vault,  23  ft.  high,  230  yds.  long,  and  160  yds.  wide, 
supported  by  1040  granite  pillars.  It  contains  about  83,000,000 
gallons  of  water,  or  enough  to  supply  the  city's  needs  for  nine  days. 
A  third  building  is  now  in  course  of  construction  to  the  N.  of  the 
old  reservoir.  —  The  water  is  procured  from  the  river  Lotoya,  which 
rises  in  a  lake  on  the  Penalara  (p.  122),  at  a  height  of  8000  ft.  above 
the  sea-leveL  It  is  jflrst  collected  in  the  Pont6n  dtla  OUva^  formed 
by  a  stone  embankment  (preea),  120  fl.  high  and  18-166  ft.  thick, 
and  then  conducted  to  Madrid,  up  hill  and  down  dale,  by  the  Caned 
de  Lozoya  (44  M.  long),  which  was  constructed  in  1861-68. 

A  little  to  the  N.W.  of  the  Depositos  lies  the  CanMntexio  de  la 
8aeram«it41  de  Saa  Luis  (PL  I ;  £,  2),  a  cemetery  laid  out  in  1831, 
which  may  be  reached  either  by  the  cart-track  beginning  opposite 
the  'Lavadero  del  Lozoya'  (Calle  de  Bravo  Murillo  30)  or  by  the 
footpath  skirting  the  N.  side  of  the  old  reservoir.  It  contains  the 
graves  of  Francisco  Goya  ri764-1828) ,  the  painter,  and  of  Juan 
Eugenio  Hartaenbusch  (180d-80),  a  writer  of  German  descent  and 
author  of  the  popular  'Amantes  de  Teru^l'  and  other  novels.  The 
peculiar  Spanish  custom  of  burial  in  niches  (comp.  p.  210)  is  well 
illustrated  here.   Fine  view  of  the  Guadarrama  Mountains. 

We  may  now  take  the  tramway  from  the  Depositos  to  the  Glorieta 
de  Quevedo  and  thence  follow  the  Calle  de  San  Bernardo  towards 
the  S.W.  This  leads  to  the  Glo&ibta  db  San  Bbbnaj&do  (PI.  I ; 
P,  5),  which  occupies  the  site  of  the  notorious  Quemadero,  or  place 
of  execution  erected  by  the  Inquisition  for  the  benefit  of  heretics. 
In  the  making  of  the  adjoining  Calle  de  Carranza  (to  the  £.),  soon 
after  the  September  Revolution  of  1868,  eloquent  relics  of  this 
'bras^ro  Inquisitoriar  were  discovered  in  the  shape  of  large  deposits 
of  ashes,  cinders,  and  human  bones. 

In  the  part  of  the  CaUe  de  San  Bernardo  to  the  8.  of  the  glorieta 


94    BouU  S.  MADRID.  d,  N,  Quarters. 

lie  the  large  HospUdl  de  la  Princesa  (right ;  PI.  I,  E  5) ;  the  old  Con- 
vent ofMontaerrat  (right),  now  used  as  a  prison  for  women  (Cdrcd  de 
MujeretJ,  with  a  long-closed  and  ruinous  church;  and  the  new 
Oonvento  de  Uu  Salesas  (left). 

Just  beyond  the  last,  to  the  left,  is  the  Calle  de  Daoiz,  leading  to  the 
Plaza  dei,  Dos  i>k  Mato  (PI.  I;  F,  5).  In  the  middle  of  this,  surrounded 
by  flower-beds  and  enclosed  by  a  railing,  is  the  gateway  of  the  old  Parque 
de  MimieUon,  where  the  Spanish  artillery  officers  Luis  Daois  and  Pedro 
Velarde  fell  on  May  2nd,  1806,  in  the  attempt  to  expel  the  French  (p.  67). 

Farther  on  in  the  Calle  de  San  Bernardo  is  the  UniverBity  (PI. 

E,  6),  which  was  removed  to  Madrid  in  1836  from  Alcala  de  Henares 
(p.  152)  and  received  the  title  of  Vnherndad  CentrcU.  It  occupies  a 
building  named  El  Novidado,  formerly  belonging  to  the  Jesuits,  and 
is  now  attended  by  about  6600  students.  Adjacent  is  the  Miniaterio 
de  Oracia  y  JusUeia{V\.  11 ;  E,  6),  or  Ministry  of  Justice.  The  street 
ends  at  the  Plaza  de  Santo  Domingo  (PI.  II;  E,  7).  —  No.  4  in  the 
Calle  de  Isabel  la  Cat61ica,  which  runs  hence  to  the  N.,  is  the  old 
Prison  of  the  Inquisition.  In  the  revolution  of  March,  1820,  this 
building  was  stormed  by  the  people  and  partly  destroyed;  after- 
wards it  served  as  a  barrack  and  finally  passed  into  private  hands. 
A  few  decades  ago  extensive  subterranean  dungeons  were  discovered 
below  this  building,  containing  numerous  human  bones.  —  We  may 
now  return  from  the  Plaza  de  Santo  Domingo  to  the  Puerta  del  Sol 
through  the  Calle  de  Preciados  j  or  we  may  proceed  to  the  W.  through 
the  Calle  de  Torrijos  to  the  Plaza  de  los  Ministerios  (p.  100),  and  thence 
to  the  Plaza  de  Oriente  (p.  96).  In  the  Calle  de  Torrijos  (No.  9)  is  the 
BritishEmbassy^  in  the  palace  once  belonging  to  Card.  Ximenez  (p.  63). 

e.  West  duarters  of  the  City.    Plaza  de  Oriente.  Soyal  Palace 
and  Armeria.  Marine  Musenm.    Calle  Mayor.  Plasa  Mayor. 

The  Callb  del  ArenXl  (PI.  F,  E,  7),  the  scene  of  an  attempt 
on  the  life  of  King  Amadeus  in  1872,  leads  to  the  W,  from  the 
Puerta  del  Sol  (p.  66)  to  the  Plaza  de  Oriente  and  the  Royal  Palace. 
To  the  left,  about  halfway  down  the  street,  stands  the  church  of 
San  Gin^B  (PI.  E,  F,  7 ;  8t  Qenesius),  which  contains  a  statue  of 
Christ  by  Alfonso  Vergaz  and  a  Scourging  of  Chris£by  Alonso  Cano. 
The  fore-court  (lonja)  formerly  served  as  a  graveyard ;  and  the  vaults 
(Idveda)  under  the  church  (entrance  in  the  Calle  de  Bordadores) 
were  once  frequented  by  religious  enthusiasts  of  both  sexes  for  dis- 
ciplinary flagellation. 

The  Oalle  de  San  Martin,  beginning  opposite  the  church  of  St.  Gines, 
leads  to  the  N.E.  to  two  small  squares  lying  side  by  side :  —  to  the  right 
the  Plaza  de  las  Descalzas,  and  to  the  left  the  Plaza  de  San  Martin  (PL  II  \ 

F,  7),  with  its  flower-beds.  On  the  8.  side  of  these  squares  lie  the  Caja 
de  Ahorro*  (municipal  savings  bank),  dating  from  1838,  and  the  Monte  de 
Pieddd  (municipal  pawnshop),  founded  in  1703.  In  front  of  the  two  build- 
ings are  statues  of  their  founders,  the  MarqtU*  de  Pontejoe  and  FrancUco 
Piquir.  The  convent-church  of  the  Deecalzas  RecUes^  to  the  K.,  contains 
the  handsome  monument  of  the  foundress,  the  Infanta  Maria,  daughter  of 
Charles  V.,  by  Pompeo  Leoni. 


«.  W.  Quarters.  MADRID.  8.  Route,    95 

The  Calle  del  Arenil  ends  at  the  attractive  Plaza  de  Isabel  Se- 
gunda  (PL  II ;  E,  7),  in  the  middle  of  which  is  a  Statue  of  the  Drama. 
On  the  W.  side  of  this  plaza  stands  the  Teatro  Re&l  (see  below). 

The  *PlAia  d6  Oriente  (Pi.  II;  £,  7),  the  largest  plaza  in  Madrid, 
was  laid  ont  by  Joseph  Napoleon,  the  ^Rey  PlazuiHas'  (p.  64),  who 
removed  several  convents,  a  chnrch,  a  garden,  and  about  500  houses 
to  make  room  for  it  Its  dominant  feature  is  the  imposing  £.  fa9ade 
of  the  royal  palace,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  Calle  de  BaUin 
(pp.  101, 104).  On  the  E.  side  stands  the  Teatro  Re&l  (p.  67).  —  The 
middle  of  the  plaza  is  occupied  by  an  oval  ^Qloriita\  surrounded 
by  fourteen  colossal  statues  of  kings  (*Reyes'),  which,  having  been 
originally  designed  to  adorn  the  roof  of  the  palace  (like  the  similar 
figures  in  the  Buen  Retiro,  p.  84,  and  at  Burgos  and  Toledo,  pp.  27, 
143),  are  not  seen  to  adyantage  at  close  quarters.  In  the  middle  of 
the  GloriAa  rises  a  fine  ^Equettrian  Staitue  of  Philip  IV.,  executed 
by  Pietro  Taeea  of  Florence,  after  a  painting  by  Velazquez,  and 
hence,  perhaps,  more  pictorial  than  plastic  in  its  general  idea.  It 
is  east  in  two  parts,  which  are  united  by  the  saddle-girth.  The  balance 
of  the  rearing  horse  is  said  to  be  maintained  by  the  circumstance  that 
the  hind-quarters  are  filled  vrith  lead.  The  rellefli  represent  the 
king  conferring  the  cross  of  Santiago  on  Velazquez  and  encouraging 
the  arts  and  sciences.  The  handsome  Fountain^  with  its  four  bronze 
lions,  is  by  FrantUeo  Elids  and  Joai  Tonuu,  The  plaza  and  palace 
produce  a  very  picturesque  impression  by  moonlight. 

The  *BojaI  Palaee  (Palaeio  Bedl,  PI.  D  7;  adm.,  see  p.  61),  an 
imposing  rectangular  structure  on  a  height  overlooking  the  Manza- 
nares,  occupies  the  site  of  an  older  palace  (destroyed  by  fire  in  1734), 
which  had  succeeded  the  Moorish  Alcazar.  On  every  side,  and  especi- 
ally from  the  valley  of  the  Manzanares  to  the  N.W.,  its  general  effect 
is  very  impressive.  The  rapid  slope  of  the  ground  towards  the  W. 
has  been  neutralized  by  immense  substructures  of  solid  masonry, 
which  add  greatly  to  its  bold  effectiveness  as  seen  from  that  side. 
The  building  is  in  the  form  of  a  quadrangle  enclosing  a  court;  it 
occupies  26,900  sq.  yds.  of  ground,  its  sides  are  500  ft.  long,  and 
its  height  varies  from  80  ft.  to  165  ft.  (including  the  substructures). 
This  rectangle^  at  the  comers  of  which  are  four  massive  'torres',  is 
adjoined  on  the  S.  by  two  projecting  wings,  enclosing  the  Plaza  de 
Armas  (p.  97).  The  entire  building  consists  of  granite,  with  door 
and  window  openings  and  other  ornaments  in  white,  marble-like 
*piedra  de  Golmenir\  The  original  plan  for  the  new  palace  was 
supplied  by  the  Turin  architect  Juvara,  who  designed  a  building  on 
a  mu"h  more  extensive  scale  to  occupy  the  heights  of  San  Bernardino, 
to  the  N.  This,  however,  was  rejected  as  too  costly,  and  the  present 
palace  was  begun  in  1738  from  the  designs  of  OiovanrU  Battista 
Sacchetti,  also  of  Turin.  It  was  ready  for  occupation  in  1764,  when 
Charles  III.  took  possession.  Its  total  cost  down  to  1808  amounted 
to  about  75,000,000  pesetas  (3,000,000^.).  The  main  facade  is  o^ 


96    BouU  8.  MADRID.  e.  Royal  Palace, 

the  S.  side,  but  it  is  better  to  enter  the  inner  court  (145  ft.  square) 
directly  from  the  N.  side. 

The  main  features  of  the  Intbbiob  are  the  Throne  Room,  the 
State  Dining  Room,  the  Hall  of  Gasparini,  and  the  Grand  Staircase. 
It  was  on  the  Grand  Staircase  (Esealera  Principal)  that  Napoleon 
said  to  his  brother  Joseph  'yous  serez  mieux  logtf  que  moi\  and  that 
he  exclaimed,  laying  his  hand  on  one  of  the  white  marble  lions, 
'je  la  tiens  enfln,  cette  Espagne,  si  desirtfe'.  The  ceiling  is  covered 
with  a  large  painting  of  the  Triumph  of  Religion  and  the  Church, 
by  the  Italian  Corrado  Oiacinto,  —  The  8cd6n  de  Embajaddres  or 
Throne  Boom,  dating  from  the  time  of  Charles  III.  (1759-98),  is 
very  elaborately  decorated.  The  throne  is  superb ;  it  has  four  steps, 
and  on  each  side  are  two  lions  of  gilt  bronze.  The  huge  chandeliers 
are  made  of  rock  crystal,  mounted  in  silyer,  and  the  mirrors  were 
made  at  San  Ildefonso  (La  Granja).  The  ceiling  is  adorned  with  a 
painting  of  the  ^Majesty  of  Spain',  by  O,  B,  TUpolo^  representing 
the  virtues  of  the  kings  and  various  types  of  the  people  in  their  local 
dress.  —  Another  superb  room  is  the  Cdmara  de  Oasparini,  designed 
by  the  Italian  artist  of  that  name  in  the  reign  of  Charles  III.  The 
ceiling  is  made  of  porcelain  from  the  factory  of  Buen  Retire,  in 
Japanese  design;  the  walls  are  covered  with  ivory-white  satin, 
embroidered  In  gold  and  flowers  of  different  colours.  —  The  SttUe 
Dining  Boom  is  the  largest  in  Europe.  It  consists  of  three  rooms 
divided  by  two  arches,  and  is  wholly  made  of  marble  of  different 
colours  and  bronze.  The  middle  fresco  represents  the  return  of 
Columbus  to  Barcelona  with  the  treasures  brought  from  America, 
which  he  offers  to  Ferdinand  and  Isabella.  —  Scattered  throughout 
the  private  rooms  are  a  large  number  of  magnificent  docks  (col- 
lected by  Ferdinand  VII.)  and  a  fine  show  of  Porcelain  from  the 
factory  in  the  Buen  Retire  (p.  86).  —  The  windows  command  fine 
*yiews  of  the  city  and  of  the  plain  bounded  by  the  Guadarrama  Mts., 
on  which  the  Escorial  is  conspicuous.  To  the  W.,  at  our  feet,  are 
the  Manzanares  and  the  park  of  the  Real  Casa  de  Campo. 

The  Palace  Chapel  (Real  Capilla  de  Palaeio),  in  the  N.  wing  of 
the  palace,  and  entered  from  the  corridor  of  the  main  story,  contains 
16  large  columns  of  dark-grey  marble,  and  has  its  dome  and  walls 
adorned  with  frescoes  by  Corrado  Oiacinto  (Holy  Trinity  and  tutelary 
saints  of  Spain).  Above  the  high-altar  is  an  Annunciation  by  Baphael 
Meng$,  of  the  latest  period  of  the  painter.  —  Two  rooms  opposite  the 
sacristy  contain  the  Relicdrio  de  la  Beal  Capilla^  or  Royal  Treasiiry 
of  Holy  Relics ,  placed  here  in  1896.  Admission  on  application  to 
the  director.   Catalogue  in  preparation. 

I.  RooH.  In  the  centre  ia  a  reliqaary  that  belonged  to  Gharlee  IV., 
riclily  mounted  with  gilded  bronze.  Above  the  altar,  on  the  wall,  is  a  ailver 
relief  of  Attila  yielding  to  the  prayers  of  Pope  Leo  I.,  by  Algardi  of  Bo- 
logna (17th  cent.). 

II.  Room.  First  Case:  39.  Crucifix  of  malachite,  before  which  the 
Spanish  kings  say  morning-prayer  on  their  birthdays.  —  Second  Oase : 
i^.  Reliquary  with  a  splinter  of  Christ's  crown  of  thorns^  38.  Chalice  made 


Armetid.  MADRID.  8.  Rwie.    97 

of  the  Ant  p]attBiia  Iwovffbt  from  Amertoa:  43.  BeUquArj  with  the  right 
arm  of  John  the  Baptist,  formerly  belonging  to  the  Knighti  of  Kaltai 
59.  Seliqnary  with  the  *lignnm  cnici8\  at  the  adoration  of  which  on  Good 
Friday  ue  Spanish  kings  pardon  condemned  criminaJs  (eomp.  p.  58) :  57. 
Reliquary  containing  a  nail  from  the  cross  of  Christ,  said  to  haTe  been 
taken  from  the  French  crown-treasury  by  Francis  I.  and  sent  to  Charles  V. 
in  1026  in  order  to  obtain  the  release  of  the  French  hostages  detained  in 
Xadrid.  Both  of  thete  last  reliquAries  are  richly  ornamented  with  jewels 
presented  by  Queen  Isabella  U.  (representing  a  value  of  2bfiQ0l.).  59.  Be- 
liqoary  with  an  extraordinarily  minute  group  of  the  Cruciflzion,  carved 
in  wood  by  AI.  Btrruguite  (p.  Uv).  —  Third  Casd:  119.  Chest  with  the 
bones  of  King  Ferdinand  HI.  (d.  1252),  who  was  oanonited  in  1671.  —  Fourth 
Ca«e:  Cross  of .  rock  crystal,  once  the  property  of  Philip  II.  —  On  the 
wall  to  the  right  of  the  window  is  an  autograph  of  San  Carlo  Borromeo 
(d.  1581). 

The  Tapieeria  of  the  palace  contains  a  unique  Collection  of  Taputr^ 
(iapieet)^  coming  from  the  old  F^brica  de  Tapices,  which,  however,  is  not 
shown  to  the  public  except  in  Easter  Week  (comp.  p.  58),  There  are 
800  pieces  in  all.  The  following  are  the  moft  notewonhy :  Conquest  of 
Tanis  by  Charlee  Y.,  executed  by  Paimemaktr  of  Brussels  from  drawings 
by  Jefutn  CorndU  Verme^en  (ten  pieces,  two  missing) ;  History  of  the  Virgin, 
on  a  gold  ground  (six  pieces);  Story  of  David  and  Bathsheba^  Life  of 
St.  Jobn^  Bearing  (ft  the  Crosi,  after  Roger  van  der  Weydeik;  Temptation  of 
St.  Antony,  after  Botch;  Last  Supper-,  The  Apocalypse;  the  Seven  Deadly 
Sins ;  Ufe  of  St.  Paul,  after  Blomnart, 

The  Royal  Library,  in  the  17.E.  angle  of  the  palace,  contains  about 
100,(XX)  printed  volumes,  3000  M SS.  (some  of  which  are  very  valuable),  and 
the  AreMwo  de  la  Corotta.  It  is  shown  only  by  permission  from  the  In- 
tendeneia  General  (p.  60). 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  palace  lie  the  Jardines  del  Palaeio,  generally 
known  as  the  Ccmipo  del  Moro  (PI.  G,  D.  7,  8)  from  the  Almoravid  Ali 
Ibn  Tdsaf,  who  pitched  his  camp  here  in  1109,  when  besieeing  the  Alcazar. 
The  gardens  were  first  laid  out  by  Philip  II.  in  1656  and  are  frequently 
mentioned  in  Spanish  history.  For  a  long  time  they  were  left  in  a  very 
neglected  condition,  but  in  1890  they  were  restored  at  great  expense.  The 
two  beautifhl  marble  fountains,  the  Fitente  de  la*  Conehat  and  the  Fuente 
de  Ice  Triionei,  were  transferred  to  this  spot  from  Aranjues  in  1S41;  the 
latter  has  been  painted  by  Velasques  (No.  1109  in  the  Prado  Gallery, 
p.  16).    Visitors  are  seldom  admitted  to  the  gardens. 

Fiom  the  inner  palace-yard  a  covered  passage  leads  below  the 
S.  wing  to  the  Plaza  db  Armas  fPl.  II;  6,  7).  The  S.E.  wing  of 
the  palace  contains  the  Intendencia  and  the  servants*  apartments.  A. 
fine  view  of  the  royal  gardens,  the  valley  of  the  Manzanares,  and 
the  Guadarrama  Mts.  is  obtained  from  the  arcade  on  the  W.  side  of 
the  Plaza  de  Armas.  —  The  new  building  in  the  S.W.  corner  of 
the  Plaza  de  Armas,  opened  in  1893,  contains  the  royal, — 

**Anneria  (PI.  D,  8j  adm. ,  see  p.  60),  a  world  -  renowned 
collection  of  arms  and  armour.  The  founder  of  the  collection  was 
Charles  Y.,  who  enriched  the  old  royal  armoury  at  Yalladolid  by 
numerous  excellent  works  of  German  and  Italian  origin.  Philip  II. 
transferred  the  chief  objects  to  Madrid  and  placed  them  in  a  build- 
ing on  tho  site  of  the  present  new  cathedral.  There  the  collection 
remained  for  over  300  years,  enlarged  by  each  successive  ruler  of 
Spain.  In  1834  this  building  was  gutted  by  fire,  when  many  ban- 
ners and  other  contents  of  the  armoury  were  destroyed.  A  cataloj^ne 
is  in  preparation. 

Babdbkbb''s  Spain.  7 


98     RouU  8.  MADRID.  «.  W.  Quarieri, 

The  Ybstibvlo  contaias  four  suits  of  ancient  Japanese  armour, 
presented  "by  a  Japanese  ambassador  to  Pbilip  II.  (1583)  and 
somewhat  injured  by  the  fire  (p.  97).  D  54,  55.  Shields  from  the 
Convent  of  Ofia  (12-1 3tb  cent.);  M  71-74.  Remains  of  standards 
and  banners  of  Charles  F.;  M  75.  Remains  of  a  banner  of  Philip  IL  and 
his  wife  Mary  of  England;  M82.  Spanish  standard  used  at  the  battle 
of  Lepanto  (1571);  M  87,  88.  Remains  of  banners  of  Philip  IL 

Sal6n  Pmncipal.  To  the  left,  by  the  S.  end-wall.  A  11.  Light 
fleld-suit  and  sword  of  PhiUp  the  Handtome  (d.  1506);  A  16. 
♦Tournament- suit  of  PhiUp  the  Handsofne,  —  W.  side.  A  17. 
Tournament-suit  of  Philip  the  Handsome;  A  14.  Light  fleld-armour 
of  Emp,  CharUs  V,  (d.  1558);  A  108.  Field-armour  of  Charles  V., 
by  the  Augsburg  armourer  Piattner  Kolmann  (1531).  The  first  case 
contains  morions  and  campaign-boots  of  Philip  the  Handsome^  Char- 
les V.y  and  others.  A  188.  *Field- armour  of  Charles  V.,  executed 
by  the  Italian  Bartolommeo  Campi  in  imitation  of  ancient  Roman 
armour ;  M  73.  Remains  of  a  banner  of  Charles  V,  The  second  case 
contains  the  turban  and  armour  of  the  pirate  Kaireddin  (^Barharossa^) 
and  a  Moorish  quiver  taken  by  the  ^Catholic  Kings',  A  295.  Parts 
of  an  equipment  of  Alexander  Famese  (d.  1592);  A  369.  Field 
harness,,  said  to  have  belonged  to  Charles  Emmanuel  I, ,  Duike  of 
Savoy  (d.  1630).  —  N.  end-wall.  Case  1  contains  weapons  and  clothes 
belonging  to  Ali  Pasha^  the  commander  of  the  Turkish  fleet  at  the 
battle  of  Lepanto ;  also  a  Turkish  flag  and  other  trophies,  and  the 
banner  of  the  Spanish  admiral  Don  John  of  Austria  {d,  1577).  M  79, 
78.  Spanish  standards  from  the  battle  of  Lepanto.  —  £.  side.  The  cases 
contain  consecrated  swords,  presented  by  the  popes,  for  doughty 
deeds  against  the  infidels,  to  John  II.  and  Hen/ry  IV,  of  Castile, 
Charles  K.,  PMUp  II,,  Philip  III.,  and  PhiUp  IV.;  Toledo  blades 
(p.  147),  cross-bows,  hunting  weapons  and  apparatus,  and  firearms  of 
the  16-17th  cent. ;  Turkish  weapons  of  the  16-18th  cent. ;  Madrid 
rifles  of  the  18th  cent.;  trophies  from  the  conquest  of  Oran  (1732); 
sword  of  the  Dvke  of  Wellington;  uniform  and  other  relics  of  Al- 
fonso XII.  (d.  1886). 

We  now  return  down  the  middle  of  the  room.  Section  1.  To 
the  right,  armour  for  cavalry  and  infantry  from  the  end  of  the  15th 
cent. ;  tournament-suit  of  Charles  V.  (made  by  Kolmann  of  Augs- 
burg; 1516)  and  the  armour  he  wore  at  the  capture  of  Tunis  (1536). 
In  the  middle  are  two  Turkish  ship^s  lanterns,  captured  at  Lepanto. 
—  A  glass-case  in  Section  2  contains  the  famous  ♦  Visigothic  Crowns, 
discovered  in  1868  and  1860  at  Guarrazar  (p.  151).  According  to 
an  inscription  on  a  similar  crown,  found  at  the  same  time  and 
place  and  now  in  the  Mustfe  de  Oluny  at  Paris,  these  curious  ob- 
jects date  back  in  part  to  the  days  of  King  Recceswind  (649-672). 
Farther  on,  to  the  right,  are  remains  of  a  Moorish  Banner  taken 
't  the  Battle  of  Las  Navas  de  Tolosa  (1212) ;    spurs  and  remains 

a  cloak  of  St.  Ferdinand  (d.  1252);    catalogue  of  Charles  V.^s 


Armerid.    '  MADRID.  8,  Houte.    99 

Armoury,  with  drawings,  prepared  in  1560  for  Philip  II. ;  travelling 
litter  of  CharUi  V.;  chaise-k-porteurs  belonging  to  PhUip  II.;  suits 
of  boy-armour  made  for  Don  Carloi  (p.  74),  Philip  III.  (d.  1621), 
PfdUp  IV.  (d.  1666),  Don  BaUaaar  Carlos  (d.  1645 ;  son  of  Philip  IV.), 
and  the  InfanU  Ferdinandj  the  tictor  of  Nordlingen.  To  the  left 
arc  various  suits  of  armour  belonging  to  Charles  K.,  including  two 
by  Kolmann  (1526  and  1638),  one  made  in  Italy  (ca.  1643),  and 
remains  of  the  field-suit  he  wore  during  the  unsuccessful  attack  on 
Algiers  (1641).  —  Section  3.  To  the  right:  A  239.  Fine  suit  of 
Pfdiip  II.,  by  Kolmann  (1649);  C  11.  Milanese  cuirass  made  by 
Bernardino  Oantoni  for  Emp,  Maximilian  I. ;  parade-armour ,  by 
Pfeffenhauser  of  Hamburg,  supposed  to  have  belonged  to  King 
SdtatUan  of  Portugal  (d.  1678);  0  12,  13.  Milanese  armour  of 
ChaHa  V,;  A  147.  Italian  parade-armour  of  Charles  V.  In  the  ease 
to  the  left  are  the  Weapons  of  Francis  I.  of  France^  captured  in  1626 
at  the  battle  of  Pavia.  (The  alleged  sword  of  this  monarch  was 
restored  to  France  at  Marat's  demand  in  1808,  with  various  absurd 
and  humiliating  formalities.)  The  same  case  contains  the  swords  of 
St.  Ferdinand  (the  famous  <Lobera'),  of  the  Cid  ('la  Golada*  and  *Ia 
Tizona'),  of  Ferdinand  V.  of  Aragon(d.  1516),  of  Oonzdlo  de  Cor- 
dovaj  the  'Great  Captain',  of  Fernando  Cortes  (f),  of  Charles  V.,  and 
of  Philip  II.;  also  the  ♦Helmet  of  King  Martin  of  Aragon  (d.  1410), 
the  BuTgundian  morions  and  shields  of  Charles  V.  and  Don  John  of 
Austria,  and  the  gauntlets  of  Emp.  Maximilian  I.  —  Section  4.  To 
the  left:  Armour  of  Charles  V.,  including  a  magnificent  ♦Suit  of 
field-armour,  made  by  Nigroni  of  Milan,  and  the  equestrian  armour 
worn  by  the  emperor  at  the  battle  of  MQhlberg  (1547);  weapons  of 
Elector  John  Frederick  of* Saxony,  captured  at  Muhlberg.  To  the 
right,  Armour  of  PhUip  IV.  (d.  1665).  — -  Section  5.  To  the  left: 
Armour  of  Philip  II.,  by  Kolmann  (1544),  Wolf  of  Landshut  (1560), 
and  others.  To  the  right:  Armour  of  Philip  III.  and  Philip  IV. 
In  the  middle  are  French  and  Portuguese  ship's  lanterns,  captured 
by  Alvaro  de  Bazan  (p.  lOB)  in  1582,  at  the  battle  of  the  island  of 
San  Miguel.  —  On  the  walls  hang  tapestry  from  the  Tapiceria 
fp.  97),  including  four  pieces  of  Brussels  tapestry  of  the  begin- 
ning of  the  17th  cent.,  with  scenes  from  the  campaigns  of  Arch- 
duke AJbert  in  the  Low  Countries. 

The  Catedxkl  de  Kuestra  Sonera  de  la  Almudena  (PI.  P,  8), 
now  building  (from  designs  of  the  Marqttes  de  Oubcui)  on  the  site 
of  the  Old  Armoury,  takes  its  name  from  the  ancient  church  of  the 
Virgen  de  la  Almudena  (see  p.  63),  which  stood  down  to  1869  hard 
by,  at  the  comer  of  the  Calle  Maydr  (p.  103). 

To  the  N.  of  the  palace,  and  entered  by  No.  2  Calle  de  Bail^n^ 
are  theBeales  Caballerizai  y  Coch^ra  (PI.  D,  7;  adm.,  see  p.  61), 
OT  Toyal  stables  and  coach-houses.  The  horses,  about  100  in  num- 
ber, represent  studs  in  different  parts  of  Europe.   Among  the  most 

7* 


100   RouU8.  MADRID.  e.  W,  QuarUrs. 

interesting  are  the  cream-coloured  horses  from  the  royal  stud  at 
Aranjuez  (p.  126),  the  ^jaqnitas'  of  Andalusia,  and  the  ponies  from 
the  Shetland  Isles  and  Galicia.  The  fine  mules,  used  in  the  royal 
carriages,  will  also  attract  attention.  —  The  Hamess  Room  (Cfuar- 
iUb)  contains  harness,  saddles,  liveries,  caparisons,  hammer-cloths, 
and  the  like.  The  old  stirrups  (etirCbos)^  with  pointed  ends  used 
as  spurs,  should  he  noticed.  —  Among  the  state  and  other  carriages 
in  the  Coch^ra  are  many  of  historical  interest.  An  ebony  carriage, 
ih  which  Johanna  the  Mad  is  said  to  have  driven  about  with  the 
dead  body  of  her  husband,  really  dates  from  the  17th  century. 
Among  the  others  are  a  carriage  given  by  Napoleon  I.  to  Charles  IV. 
and  the  bridal  carriage  of  Ferdinand  YII.  and  Christina  of  Naples. 
Opposite  the  Royal  Stables  opens  the  Plaza  db  los  MxNisTiBios, 
with  the  Senado  (PI.  E,  7)  or  Senate,  a  building  of  little  interest, 
originally  an  Augustine  coUege.  In  1814  it  was  the  meeting-place 
of  the  first  Cortes,  and  bore  the  inscription :  Xa  podestad  de  hacer 
leyes  reside  en  las  Cortes  con  el  Rey\  A  little  later,  after  the 
return  of  Ferdinand  VII.,  it  was  plundered  by  the  mob.  In  1836  it 
was  assigned  to  the  senate.  The  staircase  is  embellished  with  a 
painting  of  the  battle  of  Lepanto  by  Juan  Luna  Novicio  (1887) ; 
the  Sal6n  de  Conferencias  contains  the  celebrated  *  Surrender  of 
Granada  by  FradUla  (1882).  --  To  the  right  is  the  MinUtry  of  the 
Marine  (PL  E,  6 ,  7).  We  pass  through  the  main  doorway,  traverse 
the  courts,  and  proceed  through  the  door  to  the  right  to  the  — 

Museo  Vayal  (PI.  II,  E  6;  adm. ,  see  p.  61),  [an  interesting 
collection  of  models  of  ships,  arms,  plans,  flags,  portraits,  and  the 
like,  founded  in  1843  and  oocnpying  eleven  rooms.  Catalogue  1  p. 

Ground  Floor.  The  Vestibule  (Porteria)  conUins  a  painting  of  an 
episode  in  the  battle  of  Cape  St.  Vincent  (1797),  some  ohip^s  lanterns 
(t'ardlas),  and  other  objects.  In  the  middle  ia  an  ethnographical  collection 
trom  China,  Porto  Bico,  Cuba,  and  other  places.  —  Boom  I  (8aia  de 
Artenales).  Belief-plans  of  the  arsenals  of  8an  Fernando,  Cartagena,  £1 
Ferrol,  Porto  Bico,  etc.  Collection  of  the  varions  kinds  of  timber  used 
for  ship-huilding  in  different  countries ;  models  of  ships  and  docks ;  view 
of  Cartagena;  lantern  from  the  wrecked  ship  ^Ferdinand  VIP.  In  the 
middle  of  the  room  are  two  large  canoes,  each  made  of  a  single  piece 
of  wood.  —  Boom  II  (Sola  de  Artillerta  y  Mdquinat).  Collection  of  fire 
arms,  models  of  cannons,  projectiles;  model  of  the  engines  of  the  cruiser 
yumantia;  spears  from  the  Philippine  Islands,  Sniu,  Fernando  Po,  etc.  — 
Boom  III  (8ala  de  Jdrcias  y  Velamen).  Specimens  of  cordage  and  cablea.  — 
We  now  ascend  the  winding  staircase  to  the  — 

Firat  Floor.  Boom  IV  (Sola  de  CoUmias  UUramarinag).  Portraits  of 
Juan  Sebastian  Elcano,  Ferdinand  MagalhSes  (Magellan),  Vasco  Nunez  de 
Balboa,  Fernando  Cortes ,  and  Francisco  Pizarro ;  piece  of  the  tree  under 
which  Cortes  spent  his  ^doleful  night*  (la  noche  triile)  in  Mexico  (see 
Baedeker^s  United  States  and  Mexico)  \  representation  of  the  discovery  of 
America  on  Aug.  Srd.  1492  •,  weapons  and  banners  from  Cochin  China, 
taken  at  Saigon  in  1869 ;  weapons  and  n^odels  of  boats  of  the  nativea  of 
the  Philippine  Islands,  Borneo,  Celebes,  China,  and  South  America.  — 
Boom  V  (Bala  de  la  Marina  Bistoriea).  Water-colour  paintings  of  ships 
from  antiquity  down  to  the  present  day ;  portraits  of  Don  John  of  Austria, 
'Andrea  Doria,  Boger  de  Lauria,  and  other  celebrated  admirals ;  consecrated 


Mweo  Naval.  MADRID.  8,  Route.    101 

sword  presented  by  Pope  Pius  V.  to  Don  John  of  Anstria;  remains  of 
tvfro  Spanish  ships,  the  *8an  Pedro  Alcintara*  and  the  ^8oberaao\  which 
sank  in  1816  and  1864 ;  models  of  ships,  etc.  —  We  now  proceed  to  the 
right  throach  an  ante-room  into  Boon  VI  (Sola  d$  R^aterdtu  ColonMnot). 
Portraits  of  Columbns  (Ko.  1.  Copy  of  the  portrait  in  the  National  Library), 
Pisarro,  Magalh2es,  and  the  ^Catholic  Kings*;  copy  of  the  map  of  the 
world  by  Gabriel  de  Valseca  (lA99h  chart  drawn  in  1500  by  the  pilot  Jaan 
de'la  Cosa,  from  observations  made  on  the  second  voyage  of  Columbus  in 
1493.  —  we  now  retam  through  the  ante-room  to  Boom  YU  (Saia  ds  F»r^ 
namdo  S«gt0),  Portraits  of  Ferdinand  VI.,  his  minister  Marqu^  de  la  Bn- 
senada,  and  other  contemporaries;  paintines  of  the  battle  of  Trafalgar 
(1806)  and  other  naval  engagements*,  painting  of  the  battle  of  Lepanto 
(Kg.  33),  broaght  from  the  Dominican  convent  of  Malaga  and  valuable 


for  its  representation  of  the  ships  and  eostomes  of  the  time.  In  the  middle 
of  the  room,  various  models  of  sliips.  —  Boon  VIII  (Saia  ds  to  Marina 
Modema).    Ships*  models  of  the  19th  century,  including  (near  the  exit)  the 


unfortunate  cruiser  ^Beina  Begente',  which  was  lost  in  1896  *,  admiral's  uniform 
worn  by  King  Alfonso  XII. ;  painting  by  Alvares,  representing  the  Em- 
barkation of  King  Amadeos  at  Genoa.  —  Boom  Ijl  (Becuerdoa  d*  Marino* 
JUwatru).  Picture  of  the  Trinity  from  the  ship  ^Trinidid'  in  the  battle  of 
Trafalgar  (1806)-,  uniform  of  Admiral  Gravina,  commander  of  the  Spanish 
fleet  at  Trafalgar,  and  the  flag  of  his  ship  the  ^Principe  de  Astdrias*; 
^Diccionario  I>emostrativo\  a  monumental  work  on  ship-building  by  the 
Marqu^  de  la  Victoria,  completed  in  1766.  —  Opposite,  on  the  other  side 
of  the  staircase,  is  Boom  X  (Jmlrutnento*  CUhH/Ico*^  Torp*do»  y  Tarpidtrot). 
Colleetion  of  nautical  instruments ;  models  of  torpedo-boats  \  relief- models 
of  the  island  of  Teneriffe.  —  We  descend  the  staircase  to  — 

Boom  XI  (Siecidn  de  Puca).  Fishing  boats  and  apparatus;  natural 
history  colleetion  of  marine  animals. 

Following  the  Calle  de  BaiWn  (pp.  96,  104)  towards  the  N., 
we  reach  the  Plaza  db  San  Mabcial  (PI.  II ;  £,  6),  with  the  large 
CSwrUl  (barracks)  de  San  OU.  In  the  grounds  adjoining  the  Calle 
Ferraz,  to  the  N.W.  of  the  barracks,  rises  a  Bronze  Statue  of  Catsola, 
Minister  of  War  (d.  1890),  by  Benlliure.  On  the  height  to  the  N.W. , 
which  commands  a  good  Tiew  of  the  Manzanares  valley,  is  the  huge 
Caartel  de  la  Montana  (PI.  D,  6).  The  adjoining  quarters  of  Arguellet 
and  Pdzaa  do  not  repay  a  visit  except  to  those  who  are  specially 
interested  in  such  institutions  as  the  Cdrcel  ModSlo  (PI.  I ;  G,  4), 
the  Asilo  de  San  Bernardino  (PI.  I ;  C,  D,  8),  and  the  Eseuela  de 
Agricultura  (PI.  I ;  B,  2),  in  the  old  Casa  de  la  China  (porcelain  - 
factory)  in  the  Moncloa, 

The  Valley  of  the  Mantandrea,  which  is  conveniently  reached 
from  the  Plaza  de  San  Marcial  by  the  Paseo  de  San  Vicente  (PI.  II ; 
D,  7),  offers  little  of  interest. 

The  Manzanares^  seldom  more  than  the  most  insignificant  of  streams, 
enjoys  a  factitious  reputation  from  its  frequent  appearance  in  satirical 
writings.  It  rises  on  the  Guadarrama  Mts.,  6  BI.  from  the  village  of  Manza- 
nares, and  at  Facto  Madrid^  a  little  below  the  capital,  joins  the  Jarama, 
which  flows  into  the  Tagus  at  Aranjuez.  In  former  centuries  the  shady 
groves  on  its  banks  were  a  favourite  haunt  of  the  HadHlenos  and  the 
scene  of  the  al  fresco  festivities  of  high  and  low,  so  often  described  by 
the  poets  of  the  17th  century.  Now,  from  the  Paente  Verde  to  below  the 
Puente  de  Toledo,  its  scanty  waters  are  diligently  made  the  most  of  by 
hundreds  of  washerwomen. 

From  the  end  of  the  Paseo  de  San  Vicente  the  Passo  db  la 
Fjlobida  (PI.  I,  CB6-4;  tramway -line  IVc,  p.  56)  leads  to  the 


102  Routes.  MADRID.  e,  W,  Quarters. 

N.W.,  passing  (right)  the  Esiaci^  del  Norte  (p.  53),  to  the  Enoita 
da  San  Antonio  de  la  Florida  (PI.  I  \  B,  6),  close  to  the  JPimUe  Verde 
(p.  65).  The  dome  of  the  churcli,  which  dates  from  1792,  is  adorned 
with  fine  ^Frescoes  hy  Goyct,  The  paseo  is  continued  by  the  Camino 
del  Pardo  (p.  108).  —  The  Pasbo  db  la  Vibgbn  dbl  PtTBBTo  (PI.  II ; 
C,  7,  8)  leads  to  the  S.  from  the  Paseo  de  San  Vicente  to  the  Ermita 
de  la  Virgen  del  Puerto,  on  the  Manzanaies,  and  thence  to  the  Puente 
de  Segovia  (p.  65).  —  A  third  route  leads  across  the  Puente  del  Bey 
(PI.  0, 7)  to  the  Casa  de  Campo  (PI.  I,  A-C,  6, 7 ;  adm.,  see  p.  61), 
an  extensive  royal  park,  laid  out  by  Philip  II.  and  containing  large 
ponds,  several  springs  (one  of  them  chalybeate),  a  *palacio'  (close 
to  the  river),  a  church,  a  pheasantry  (faUaneraJf  a  Campo  Santo,  a 
cow-stable,  and  the  so-called  Pozos  de  Hielo^  or  ice-cellars.  On  a  hill 
near  the  large  pond  rises  tta  Torrecilla^  a  keeper's  house  command- 
ing a  most  extensive  and  beautiful  ♦View  of  Madrid. 


Of  the  two  great  streets  running  towards  the  W.  from  the  Puerta 
del  Sol  (p.  65)  that  to  the  S.,  the  Callb  Mayob  (PI.  F-D,  8),  is 
one  of  the  city's  chief  arteries  of  traffic.  The  E.  section  of  it  lies 
within  the  oldest  part  of  the  city,  but  the  W.  half  intersects  the 
suburb  of  Santa  Cruz.  The  short  side-streets  to  the  left,  near  the 
site  of  the  former  Puerta  de  Guadalajara,  lead  to  the  spacious  — 

♦Plaza  May6r  (PI.  E,  F,  8),  or  Plaza  de  la  ConstitvcUhh,  with  its 
fountains  and  pleasure-grounds.  In  the  centre  rises  an  *Eqiie8trian 
Statue  of  Philip  IIJ.,  probably  the  finest  monument  in  Madrid,  mod- 
elled by  Giovanni  da  Bologna  after  a  painting  by  Pantoya  de  la  Cruz 
and  cast  at  Florence  by  Pietro  Tacca  (1640).  Down  to  1848  it  stood 
in  the  Casa  de  Campo.  The  plaza  was  laid  out  at  the  beginning  of 
the  17th  cent.,  numerous  houses  in  the  suburb  of  Santa  Cruz  having 
been  removed  for  the  purpose,  and  was  long  used  for  ceremonies 
and  shows  of  various  kinds,  tournaments,  executions,  'autos  de  f^ 
('acts  of  faith'),  horse-races,  and  bull-fights.  The  balconies  of  the 
houses  served  as  boxes  for  the  spectators,  of  whom  50,000  could  be 
thus  accommodated.  The  Balcdn  de  Marizdpalos  was  fitted  up  by 
Philip  IV.  for  his  mistress.  The  lower  stories  of  the  houses  are 
fronted  by  arcades. 

The  plaza  was  inaugurated  hy  a  festival  in  honour  of  the  beatification 
of  St.  Isidro,  held  on  Hay  15th,  1620.  A  year  and  a  half  later  Bodrigo 
Calderdn^  Marquit  de  Siete-Iglitigty  was  executed  here.  In  1622  the  square 
was  the  scene  of  several  other  acts  of  canonisation,  including  that  of 
Ignatius  Loyola  (p.  13),  for  which  Lope  de  Vega  wrote  a  drama.  Other 
spectacles  included  bull-fights  and  Good  Friday  proceJ«sions  of  penitents 
and  flagellants.  The  brilliant  tournament  held  in  1623,  in  honour  of 
the  Prince  of  Wales,  afterwards  Charles  I.  of  England,  was  followed  by 
a  series  of  bull-fights  and  autos  de  fe.  A  court-festival  in  1629  lasted 
40  days  and  is  said  to  have  cost  3,000,000  p.  (60,000i.).  The  entire  8.  side 
of  the  square  was  burned  down  in  July,  1631;  and  the  N.  side,  with  the 
Panaderfa  (p.  103),  followed  suit  on  Aug.  20th,  1672.  On  June  30th, 
1680,  an  auto  de  f^  lasted  from  7  a.m.  till  dusk.  Of  the  80  accused,  21 
™«Te  burned  alive  on  the  Quemadero  (p.  93),  the  flames  not  dying  out 
^fter  midnight    Charles  II.,  his  queen,  and  his  court  attended  this 


TwmHaU.  MADRID.  8.  Route.    103 

edifrinc  speetaele  for  twelve  hoan  (oomp.  Risi's  painting  bI  the  Prado, 
Ho.  lOlo,  p.  74).  Similar  spectMles  took  place  in  the  18th  eent.  under 
the  Bourbons.  The  plaza  wm  also  visited  by  •evcral  conflagrations.  In 
1812  the  British  entered  Xadrid  in  triumph;  the  constitution  of  Oadis  was 
proclaimed  and  the  name  of  the  square  was  chnnged.  Later  it  wa^  the 
scene  of  several  riots  and  encounters  between  the  militia  and  the  regular 
troops.  The  name  of  the  souare  alternated  between  Plaza  de  la  Consitita- 
r.idn  and  Plasa  Betfl,  with  snort  Intermesxos  of  Plaza  de  la  Repdblica  and 
Plaxa  de  la  Beptiblioa  Federal.  In  182S  the  Federalists  removed  the  statue 
from  its  pedestal  and  offered  it  (in  vain)  for  sale.   It  was  re-erected  In  1874. 

The  chief  building  in  the  sqnare  is  the  Gasa  PANADBRfA,  on 
the  N.  side,  which  derives  its  name  f^om  a  bakehouse  erected  here 
by  the  magistrates  in  1590.  The  Panaderia  was  rebuilt  after  the  fire 
of  1672,  and  its  facade  was  adorned  with  frescoes  from  designs  by 
Coeilo,  recently  replaced  by  others  by  Martinet  Ouhellt*  The  interior, 
containing  administrative  offices  and  the  rooms  of  the  fire-brigade 
(aervicio  de  incindio8)y  is  uninteresting.  —  Opposite  the  Panaderfa, 
on  the  S.  side  of  the  square,  is  the  C€ua  ConsUtori&l^  also  used  for 
mnnicipal  purposes. 

The  short  Galle  de  Gerona  leads  to  the  S.K.  from  the  Plaza  Mayor 
to  the  small  Plaza  deProvincia,  with  the  Ministebio  ub  UlteamAr 
(PL  11;  F,  8),  built  in  1636  as  the  prison  of  the  Audi^ncia  and 
tastefully  restored.  The  interior  contains  a  wide  staircase  and  two 
glass-covered  courts,  with  marble  statues  of  Sebastian  EUano  (left) 
and  Cohimbua  (right).  Round  the  cornice  are  inscribed  the  names  of 
the  chief  Spanish  discoverers.  On  the  second  floor  are  several  pic- 
tures, among  which  may  be  mentioned  the  Landing  ofOolumbus, 
by  Dioteoro,  some  landscapes  by  Sanchez^  and  a  large  piece  by  Pietro 
da  Cortona.  —  The  Calle  de  Atoeha  (see  p.  106)  runs  hence  to  the 
S.E.  A  little  to  the  W.  is  the  Calle  de  ToUdo  (p.  105). 

The  W.  part  of  the  Galle  Mayor  was  formerly  named  the  Calle  de 
la  Almudena  (comp.  p.  99).  Calderon  died  here  at  No.  75  (comp. 
p.  106),  Lope  de  Vega  was  born  at  No.  82.  —  To  the  left  opens  the 
Plaza  db  la  Villa  ,  with  a  Bronte  Statue  of  Admiral  Alvaro  de 
Baz(in  (1526-88),  by  Mariano  Benlliure,  and  the  Casa  de  Aynnta- 
miento  (PI.  £,  o),  or  CUy  Hall,  a  building  of  the  17-18th  cent., 
with  three  towers.  The  chief  features  of  interest  in  the  interior  of 
the  latter  are  the  fine  staircase,  the  handsome  8al6n  de  ColumnaSy 
the  Chapel  (with  frescoes  by  Antonio  Palomino),  and  a  few  autograph 
writings  of  Calderon.  —  To  the  E.,  opposite  the  City  Hall,  stands 
the  quaint  Torre  de  los  Li^anei,  in  which  Francis  I.  of  France  is 
said  to  have  been  confined  before  his  transference  to  the  Alcazar.  It 
was  restored  in  1880. 

The  Galle  Mayor  ends  at  the  Calle  de  BaiUn  (p.  104)  and  the  Plaza 
de  la  Armerfa,  just  to  the  S.  of  the  Almudena  Cathedral  (p.  99), 
To  the  left  rises  the  large  PcUacio  de  loa  Contejos^  containing  the 
Capitania  General  (PI.  D,  E,  8).  —  Opposite,  at  the  corner  of  the 
short  Calle  de  la  Almudena,  is  the  Palace  of  the  Dvhei  of  AbranUf 


tOA   BouUS.  MADRID.  f.  8.W,  Quarttrs. 

now  the  Italian  Embassy.   The  name  Almudena  recalls  the  Moorish 
period,  'almudin'  being  the  Arabic  word  for  *corn  magazine'. 

The  Palacio  Pafttrasa,  Calle  do  la  Almudena  Ifo.  3  (PI.  II:  D,  £,8), 
was  the  residence  of  Princess  Eboli.  In  front  of  it,  on  March  Slst,  157S, 
ruan  Etcobido,  the  secretary  of  Don  John  cf  Austria  and  a  notorious  rival 
of  the  Princess  EboH's  lover  Antonio  Perez,  was  assassinated  by  hired 
bandits.  In  the  fagade  turned  towards  the  royal  palace  is  a  small'  door- 
way (now  kept  closed),  from  which  Philip  II.,  muffled  in  his  cloak  and 
surrounded  by  an  armed  guard,  is  said  to  have  watched  by  night  the 
execution  of  his  behest  to  arrest  the  princess  and  convey  her  to  the  castle 
of  Pinto. 

f.  South-Weit  dnartexB  of  the  City. 

The  S.  prolongation  of  the  Callb  db  Bail^n  (p.  95),  beyond 
the  W.  end  of  the  Calle  Mayor  (p.  103),  crosses  the  Calle  de  Segovia 
by  a  Viaduct  (PI.  H;  D,  8),  430  ft.  long  and  75  ft.  high,  erected  in 
1873.  Beyond  the  viaduct,  a  little  to  the  right,  lies  the  Campillo 
DH  LAS  VisTiuLAS  (PI.  II;  D,  8,  9),  wMch  affords  an  unexpected 
♦View  of  the  valley  of  the  Manzanares.  The  Travesfa  de  las  Vistillas 
leads  hence  to  the  S,  to  the  imposing  dome-covered  structure  of  — 

San  Fxancisco  el  Grande  (PI.  D,  9),  the  Fante6n  Nacional  of 
Spain,  bearing  the  inscription  :  ^Espana  d  sus  Preclaros  Hijo8\  The 
Ermita  that  originally  stood  on  this  site  was  afterwards  replaced  by 
the  Convento  de  JesHs  y  Mariaj  and  the  latter  received  its  present 
form  in  1761-84.  The  decree  converting  it  into  a  national  pantheon 
was  passed  in  1837  but  not  acted  on  till  1869.  The  dome,  the  lan- 
tern, and  the  portico  with  its  two  towers  are  partially  modelled  on 
those  of  the  Pantheon  at  Rome, 

The  beautiful  doors,  with  scenes  from  sacred  history  and  ornament- 
ation in  the  Renaissance  style,  were  carved  by  A,  Vm'ida. 

The  *Iiiterior  is  open  from  7  to  12  and  3  to  5  (printed  description 
sold  at  the  entrance,  25c.).  —  The  nave  is  adjoined  by  an  apse,  containing 
the  high-altar,  and  by  six  chapels.  Each  of  the  last  has  room  for  100  graves, 
and  200  more  can  be  made  behind  the  high-altar.  The  pillars  are  adorned 
with  figures  of  the  Apostles  by  Mariano  BenUittre^  Ricardo  Bellver,  and 
other  sculptors.  The  modem  frescoes  on  the  cupola  and  in  the  chapels, 
by  Plasencia,  Cubetts,  Ftrranty  Jover^  Dtgrain^  etc.,  are  full  of  colour  but 
seldom  attractive.  — -  The  decree  of  the  Cortes  that  the  remains  of  all 
distinguished  Spaniards  should  be  interred  here  has  so  izx  been  very  im- 
perfectly executed.  In  spite  of  the  most  diligent  research,  the  'Comisidn 
de  Inaoguracidn*  wa3  unable  to  trace  the  present  resting-places  of  Pelayo, 
Guzman,  Cervantes,  Lope  de  Vega,  Herrera,  Velazquez,  or  Hurillo.  The 
most  eminent  names  among  those  who  were  interred  here  in  1869  are  those 
of  Juan  Mena,  Oonzalo  de  Cdrdoba,  Oarcilaso  de  la  Vega,  A.  Morales^  A.  de 
ErciUa,  Lanuza,  Quevedo^  Calderdn,  V.  Rodriguez,  J.  de  Villanuetay  and 
Gravina;  and  the  remains  of  moet  of  these  had  afterwards  to  he  restored 
on  the  remonstrance  of  their  descendants  and  fellow-provincials. 

From  San  Francisco  the  Carrera  de  San  Francisco  (tiamway-line 
IV  d,  p.  56)  leads  to  the  N.E.  to  the  Plaza  db  Morob  (PI.  II; 
B,9),  with  the  church  of  San  Andris  (P1.E,8,9),  which  dates  in  its 
present  form  from  the  17th  century.  On  the  N.  the  church  is  ad* 
joined  by  the  CapiUa  del  ObispOy  erected  by.  the  'Catholic  Kings' 
in  1620,  above  the  original  tomb  of  S.  Isidro  (p.  106),  and  now 
under  restoration. 


BaMro,  MADRID.  8.  RouU,    105 

The  former  PLAaA  db  la  Obbada  (PI.  II ;  E,  9),  in  wMch  Geu. 
Riego  (p.  487)  was  executed  on  Nov.  7t]i,  1822,  has  been  eonyerted 
into  a  large  covered  market  (mercado).  Along  the  E.  side  of  the 
mercado  rang  the  wide  Oallb  db  Tolbuo  (_P1.  E,  8,  9),  one  of  the 
chief  aiteriee  of  traffic  in  the  S.W.  part  of  old  Madrid.  In  it  is  the 
Hospital  de  la  Latina  (PI.  Uj  E,  9),  hnilt  by  Haatan  the  Moor 
(1507),  with  a  Gothic  doorway  and  a  large  staircase.  Farther  to  the 
N.,  on  the  E.  side  of  the  street,  is  the  church  of  San  Jsidro  el  Redl 
(PI.  E,  F,  9 ;  p.  106).  -  To  the  S.  the  Calle  de  Toledo  ends  at  the  — 

Pnerta  de  Toledo  (PI.  E,  10),  a  large  but  unsightly  gateway 
with  three  entrances,  erected  in  honour  ofthe  return  of  Ferdinand  VII. 
from  his  imprisonment  at  Valency.  The  upper  part,  embellished 
with  allegorical  figures  and  military  trophies,  bears  the  Inscription : 
*A  Fernando  YJI  el  deseado,  padre  de  la  patria,  restituido  a  sus 
pueblos,  termlnada  la  usurpacidnfranoesa,  el  ayuntamiento  de  Madrid 
consagrd  este  monumento  de  fidelidad,  de  triunfo,  de  alegrfa.  Afio  de 
1827*.  The  bronze  letters  of  this  extraordinary  inscription  were 
torn  down  by  the  revolutionists  in  1864  and  1868,  and  the  date  alone 
w«3  left  uninjured. 

The  Calle  de  Toledo  is  continued  by  the  wide  Paaeo  de  loa 
Ocho  Saa8  (PI.  D,  £,  10,  11),  which  descends  to  the  S.W.,  crossing 
the  track  of  the  ^Ferrocarril  de  Circunv€Uacidn\  to  the  Manzanares 
and  the  Piunte  de  ToUdo  (PI.  I,  D  11 ;  p.  65). 

By  following  the  Camioo  Alto  de  San  Isidro  to  the  N.W.  from  the 
Paente  de  Toledo,  we  reach  tke  celebrated  Ermita  de  8aa  laidro  del  Oampo 
(PI.  I;  B,  11),  at  which  (Hay  16-30th)  ia  celebrated  the  'Romeria*  described 
at  p.  o9,  still  the  chief  fSte  of  the  lower  classes  of  Madrid.  Behind  the 
church  lies  the  *Cement4rio  de  San  UidrOy  the  upper  part  of  which  contains 
some  large  mauaolea.  —  Among  the  other  cemeteries  in  this  district  are 
the  CemeniiHo  del  Bur  (PI.  I ;  D.  13) ;  the  CemmUrio  de  San  LormtOy  Caminu 
de  Carabanch^l,  with  a  beautiful  view  of  the  town  and  the  Ouadarrama 
valley;  and  the  CemenUrio  Jnglia.  or  Protestant  Cemetery  (consecrated 
in  186f). 

Uninteresting  and  dirty  streets,  forming  a  strong  contrast  to  the 
Madrid  of  the  Puerta  del  Sol,  lead  to  the  £.  from  the  Calle  de  To- 
ledo to  the  so-called  BMtro  (PI.  £,  F,  9),  one  of  the  largest  rag 
fairs  in  the  world,  regularly  visited  by  dealers  in  antiquities  from 
other  parts  of  Europe.  The  scene  of  busy  animation  here,  extend- 
ing on  Sun.  morning  from  the  Plaza  del  Bastro  all  along  the  Ribera 
de  Curtidores  to  beyond  the  Ronda  de  Embajadores  (PI.  II;  F,  10), 
forms  a  worthy  counterpart  to  the  Piazza  Navona  at  Rome,  as  it  was 
in  the  days  of  .papal  rule. 

In  the  Galls  ns  £mbajad6jui8  (PI.  F,  9, 10)  ia  the  Foundling  Hospital, 
known  as  the  Indusa  from  an  image  of  the  virgin  brought  from  Enkhuisen 
in  Holland.  The  *nino8\  who  are  placed  on  the  ^torno'  at  the  entrance, 
remain  in  the  hospital  till  the  age  of  seven,  when  they  are  removed  to 
the  CoUgio  de  Deeamparddoe  or  de  la  Pat  in  order  to  learn  a  trade.  — 
Farther  on  in  the  same  street,  to  the  left,  is  the  Fdbrica  Nadondl  de  To- 
bacoe  (PI.  F,  10^  adm.  on  application  to  the  ^conaerje"),  in  which  about 


QOOO  hands  are  employed,  mostly  girls.    Oppofite  (to  the  right)  stands  the 
laria ,  or  veterinary  college  (adm.,  see  p.  61).  —  Frt » 


EecmUa  de  VeUrinaria . 


\0Q  RouUa.  MADRID.  g.  8,E.  QuarUrs, 

this  point  we  may  follow  the  Ronda  de  Valencia  (PI.  II  tF,  0, 10)  to  the 
N.S.  to  the  S.  Railway  Station  and  the  Prado  (comp.  p.  107:  tramway-line 
Illb,  p.  55). 

Returning  from  the  Kastro  to  the  N.  to  the  Callb  de  Toledo, 
we  soon  reach  San  Isidro  el  Be&l  (PI.  E,  F,  8),  an  imposing  granite 
building,  but  with  little  pretension  to  architectural  eflPect.  The  first 
church  on  this  site  was  dedicated  to  SS.  Peter  and  Paul.  The  present 
building,  dating  from  the  middle  of  the  17th  cent.,  was  banded  over 
to  the  Jesuits.  On  their  expulsion  in  1769  the  church  was  con- 
secrated to  St.  Isidore  *the  Peasant'  (San  Isidro  Labrador,  d.  1170), 
the  patron-saint  of  the  city,  whose  bones  were  brought  hither  from 
San  Andres  (p.  104).  The  church ,  which  at  present  serves  as  the 
cathedral  of  the  diocese  (comp.  p.  99),  is  decorated  with  large 
paintings  by  Coello,  Herrera  the  Younger,  and  other  artists.  Above 
the  high-altar  is  a  Trinity  by  Bapluul  Mengs. 

The  side-streets  diverging  to  the  E.  beside  the  church  of  San 
Isidro  lead  to  the  attractive  Plaza  del  Prooreso  (PI.  II ;  F,  8,  9), 
which  contains  a  statue  of  the  statesman  Juan  Alvarez  de  Mendizd- 
bal  (1790-1853),  by  Jos^  Grajea.  The  Calle  de  los  Tintoreros,  the 
next  side-street  to  the  left,  leads  to  the  Puebta  Cebbada  (Pl.  II ; 
E,  8),  taking  its  name  from  a  long-closed  (*cerrado')  gate,  which  was 
Anally  removed  in  1569.  The  site  of  the  gate,  in  the  middle  of  the 
square,  is  marked  by  a  large  Cross  of  white  stone  ('piedra  de  Colme- 
nar'),  for  which  an  *Arca  de  Agua',  or  small  reservoir,  serves  as  base. 

The  N.  part  of  the  Calle  de  Toledo  is  flanked  by  long  arcades 
and  innumerable  drapers'  shops,  in  which  'mantas\  *f ay  as' (sashes), 
and  jackets  of  all  the  hues  of  the  rainbow  are  offered  for  sale.  The 
street  ends  at  the  Plaza  Mayor  (p.  102). 

g.  South-East  Quarters  of  the  City. 

The  chief  street  of  the  S.E.  part  of  Madrid  is  the  Calls  db 
Atooha  (PI.  F,  G,  H,  8,  9),  which  begins  at  the  Plaza  de  Provin- 
cia,  near  the  Plaza  Mayor  (p.  102).  Immediately  to  the  right  is  the 
new  Gothic  church  of  Sarhto  Tom&s  (PI.  II;  F,  8).  Farther  on,  to 
the  left,  is  the  old  building  of  the  Banco  de  Espana  (p.  67),  now 
occupied  by  the  Direccidn  Oenerdl  de  la  Deuda  Puhlica  (Administra- 
tion of  the  Public  Debt).  To  the  right,  nearly  opposite,  is  the  Mi- 
nisterio  de  Fomento  (PI.  II ;  F,  8),  or  ministry  of  public  works,  in 
the  bid  convent  of  the  Trinitarian  or  Bare-footed  Friars. 

The  short  Calle  de  San  Sebastian,  the  next  side-street  to  the  left,  leads 
to  the  Plaza  de  Santa  Ana  (PI.  II ,  F,  O,  8)  or  Platuela'del  FHncipe  Al- 
fonso^ a  small  square  with  pleasure-groandf*,  laid  ont  on  the  site  of  the 
former  convent  of  banta  Ana.  On  its  W.  side  stands  the  Teatro  BtptMol 
(see  p.  f>7}.  In  the  middle  of  the  square  rises  the  MomunerU  of  Cdld9r6n  de  la 
Barea  (lw0-168i),  by  Figu^ras,  erected  in  i879.  The  figure  adjoining 
the  great  dramatist  is  Fame;  the  reliefs  on  the  pedestal  represent  scenes 
from  his  plays.  The  site  of  this  monument  wa^  formerly  occupied  by  the 
bronze  statue  of  Charles  V.  as  the  victor  of  Tunis,  now  io  the  Prado 
Tuseum  (p.  88).  —  The  Calle  del  Prado  (PI.  G,  8)  leads  to  the  E.  from 
it  plaza  to  the  Plaza  de  las  Cortes  (p.  68).  —  The  quarter  of  the  city 


Acad,  de  la  Hiatoria,        MADRID.  S.  Route.    107 

to  tbe  a  of  the  Galle  del  Prado  eontaina  muiy  X«moii«l  TabUto  (U»pidm) 
to  the  great  Spanish  poets.  Thus,  Ko.  15  Galle  de  Cervantes  (PI.  11:  0, 8) 
is  dedicated  to  lope  de  Vega  (18021686),  *al  fenlz  de  los  ingenios'.  Below 
is  tbe  inscription  Lope  himself  placed  upon  his  house:  °D.0.1i.  parva 
propria,  magna.  Magna  aliena,  parva'  ('a  small  possession  of  one's  own 
IS  great  J  a  great  possesion  of  another  is  Kmair).  The  house  at  the  corner 
of  this  street  and  the  Calle  del  Le<Sn  was  that  in  which  CeroatUet  (*cnyo 
iagenio  sdmira  el  mundoj)  lived  and  died  (1647-1016;  pp.  37, 163).  A  tablet 
on  the  Convento  de  laA  Trinitarian  (PI.  II;  G,  8),  Calle  de  Lope  de  Vega, 
markft  the  spot  where  Cervantes  was  buried. 

In  tbe  Calle  del  Le^n  (PI.  II ;  G,  S\  vbich  diverges  from  tbe 
Calle  de  Atocba  a  little  fartber  on,  lies  (No.  21)  the  Beal  Aeftdemia 
de  laHiitoxia,  founded  in  1738  and  now  (since  1865)  also  entrusted 
with  tbe  care  of  tbe  national  monuments  of  Spain.  Tbe  director  is 
Cditovas  del  CcutUlo. 

The  IfcsEUV  of  the  Academy  contains  the  silver  *I>Uk'  of  Emp.  Theo- 
(foiins,  a  large  medal  found  at  Almendralejo  (p.  460)  in  1847;  a  Moorish 
banner,  formerly  in  tbe  church  of  Han  Est^baa  at  Gormas;  a  reliquary 
from  the  Monasterio  de  Piedra  (p.  166),  with  paintinu  of  tbe  Aragonese 
sebool  (1390);  a  portrait  of  Vargas  Ponce,  by  Zacarias  Velasquez ;  a  collec- 
tion of  eoins ;  and  other  objects  of  interest. 

The  LiBBAET  contains  about  16,000  printed  vols,  and  1600  M 88.  Among 
the  latter,  many  of  which  come  from  Saa  Millan  de  la  CogoUa  and  8an 
Pedro  de  la  Cardena  (p.  SO),  are  tbe  Codex  Cornet^  witb  interesting  min- 
iatures (744) ;  the  Oriffinum  teu  etfmologiarwn  Hbri  XX  of  leidore  of  BeviUe 
(10th  cent.)-,  C<»nm«nlary  of  Beattu  on  the  Apocalypu^  a  copy  of  1178;  tbe 
Apoloffetiea  Bittoria  de  lae  Jndiat,  by  Bartolomi  de  la*  Cauu  (lOlh  cent.). 

Fartber  on,  the  Calle  de  Atooha  passes  the  two  large  hospitals  of 
(right)  San  Juan  de  Dios  (PI.  G,  9)  and  (left)  Nuestra  8enora  del 
Carmen  (Pi.  G,  9),  and  also  the  Facultad  de  Medieina  (PI.  G,  If,  9), 
belonging  to  tbe  university  (p.  94). 

Tbe  Calle  de  Atocba  ends  at  the  open  space  in  front  of  the  Esta- 
ci6w  DBL  Mbdiodi'a  or  Southern  Railway  Station  (PI.  H,  9,  10  j 
p.  53),  on  which  several  other  important  streets  also  debouch.  To 
the  N.  is  the  PaaSo  del  Prado  (p.  69)  j  to  the  S.W.,  the  Ronda 
de  Atoeha  (PI.  II ;  G,  H,  10),  continued  by  the  Ronda  de  Valen- 
cia (p.  106);  to  the  S.,  the  Pcuio  de  las  Deltcias,  which  leads  to  the 
somewhat  remote  Eatacidn  de  las  Delieiaa  (PI.  I;  H,  10,  11).  To 
the  E.  runs  the  Pasbo  db  Atocha  (PI.  H,  I,  9,  10),  in  which,  to 
tbe  left,  lie  the  Escuela  de  Artes  y  Ofieioa  (Pl.  II ;  H,  9),  or  school 
of  art  and  design,  and  the  Museo  AntropoWgieo  (PL  II;  H,  9).  The 
latter,  erected  in  1875,  is  covered  by  a  dome,  preceded  by  an  Ionic 
portico,  and  embellished  with  statues  of  Michael  Servet  and  ValMs 
de  Covarrubia,  surnamed  *E1  Divino'.  The  collections  are  insigni- 
ficant (adm.,  see  p.  61).  —  The  Calle  de  Alfonso  Doce  diverges  to 
the  N.  At  theMuseo  Antropologico,  and  in  it,  on  an  eminence  to  the 
right,  stands  the  Observatorio  Astrondmieo^FU  1, 9),  a  tasteful  build- 
ing begun  by  Juan  de  Villanueva  (p.  116)  in  1790,  partly  destroyed 
during  the  period  of  the  war  with  France,  and  not  restored  till  1847. 
Regular  observations  have  been  made  here  since  1851.    Fine  view. 

The  Paseo  de  Atocha  ends  to  the  E.  at  the  Basilica  db  Nubstba 
Sbnoba  db  Atocha  (PI.  I,  10),  which  was  rebuilt  in  1896.    The 


108   Route  8,  MADRID.  . 

church  occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient  and  celebrated  Ermita  de 
Atocha  (atocha  =  esparto  grass),  which  was  a  place  of  Christian 
pilgrimage  eiren  in  the  Moorish  times.  It  was  built  in  the  16-17th 
centuries,  much  damaged  by  the  French  in  1809 ,  and  afterwards 
restored.  It  was  long  the  church  of  the  court,  which  attended  the 
*  Salve*  here  every  Sat.  afternoon.  It  contained  the  much  revered  old 
image  of  the  Virgen  de  Atocha,  regarded  as  the  national  saint  of 
Spain  since  1643,  and  also  the  tombs  of  Gen.  Palafox,  the  Duque 
de  BaiMn ,  and  other  celebrated  men,  and  some  old  banners  and 
standards.  The  new  building  is  in  the  Romanesque  style  and  con- 
sists of  alternate  layers  of  white  and  grey  stone. 

To  the  E.  of  the  Basilica  de  Atocha,  Calle  Fuenterrabfa  No.  2, 
is  the  Redl  Fahrica  de  Tapfces,  or  Tapestry  Manufactory  (PI.  I;  K,  10), 
which  was  founded  in  1721  by  Philip  V.  outside  the  Porta  de  Santa 
Barbara  and  transferred  to  its  present  site  in  1889.  The  tapestries 
manufactured  here  have  retained  their  repute  to  the  present  day. 
Visitors  are  admitted  by  permission  of  the  manager. 

FroD)  this  point  we  may  proceed  to  the  left  through  the  CalU  de 
Reina  Criatina  and  then  ascend  by  the  Rondo  de  VaUecas  to  (1/4  hr.) 
the  E.  entrance  of  the  park  of  Buen  Retiro  (p.  84). 

h.  Environs  of  Madrid. 
The  Environs  of  Madrid  have  no  special  attractions.  Almost  the 
only  point  of  interest  is  the  royal  hunting-ch&teau  of  El  Pardo, 
which  lies  about  7  M.  to  the  N.W.  It  is  reached  from  the  Paseo 
de  la  Florida  (p.  101)  by  a  pleasant  avenue  and  by  the  Puerta  de 
Hierro;  and  a  diligence  runs  to  it  twice  daily  from  the  Calle  Cava 
Baja  (fare  50  c).  The  chateau,  situated  on  the  highest  point  of  the 
little  town  of  the  same  name,  was  built  by  Charles  V.  in  1643  and 
rebuilt  by  Charles  III.  in  1772.  It  contains  numerous  frescoes  by 
Bart.  Carducho,  Bayeu,  Zacarias  Velazquez,  Galvez,  Ribera,  and 
other  painters,  tapestry  after  drawings  by  Teniers,  Goya,  and  Bayeu, 
a  small  theatre,  and  a  chapel  with  a  Bearing  of  the  Cross  after  Ri- 
balta.  The  extensive  Fark  contains  beautiful  evergreen  oaks.  — 
Po%u4lo  (p.  60)  is  a  favourite  goal  of  driving  parties  from  Madrid.  — 
A  little  to  the  N.E.  of  Madrid  lies  the  village  of  CfcamortM,  with  the 
PcLUice  of  the  Duke  ofOsuna^  in  which  Napoleon  I.  resided  at  the  end 
of  1808.   It  is  now  a  Jesuit  seminary. 


9.  Excursions  from  Madrid, 
a.  Escorial. 

S2  M.  Railway  in  11/4-2  hrs.  (4-6  trains  daUy^  fares  5  p.  90,  4  p.  40, 
3  p.  65  c.);  departure  from  ihe  Sttaddn  del  ^orte  (p.  53).  —  Return-tickets, 
available  for  the  day  of  issue,  cannot  be  had  except  on  Sun.  and  festivals 
n  tbe  height  of  summer. 


l^iis^^-/- 


ESCORT AL.  9,  Routt.    109 

32  M.  BMOliAl.  —  The  BaUway  BUftioa  lies  in  Xnaridl  dt  AbaJc, 
or  the  lower  village. 

Hotels.  FovDA  DE  MiXANDA  (PI.  a),  Galle  Florida  Blanca,  d(<j.  4,  pens. 
121/30.:  FovDA  T^DsvAor  ifew  ffoM  (PI.  b),  Calle  Peguerinoa,  V«  M.  to 
the  M.w.  of  the  eonvent,  leas  pretending,  d^J.  8Vti  D.  i,  peas.  8  p.  The 
hotela  are  in  B§eori6l  d*  Arriba^  or  the  npper  village  ^  both  are  mediocre 
and  expensive  for  passing  visitors. 

Omidhns  between  the  station  and  the  upper  village  in  connection  with 
all  the  trains  (fare  60  e.).    Numeroos  C<A»  are  also  In  waiting. 

The  OUaf  Sights  of  Escorial  may  be  visited  in  one  day,  bat  the 
tonrist  must  eonsult  the  notice  posted  beside  the  church,  as  the  hours 
of  admission  are  often  changed.  lAbrary^  daily,  ezeept  Sun.  and  holi- 
days, 9-12  (winter  10-12)  and  2-4i  •CSkiireA,  6-4  s  PaiUhem^  daily,  except 
Sun.  and  holidays,  2-4:  SaeriMif,  High  Choir,  and  CMMten,  daily.  11.80-B; 
*Ch€ipttr  Eammy  12.80-8,.  Bon.  and  festivals  1-8;  Jtsyot  FeOact^  by  order 
(papeleta),  daily,  11-3;  CoiUa  dti  ftindpt,  by  order,  daily.  9-6.  —  The 
orders,  good  for  7  persons,  are  issued  free  at  the  house  No.  8  of  the  *Gom- 
paiia'  in  the  Calle  de  la  Parada,  opposite  the  N.W.  angle  of  the  convent. 
—  Adm.  to  the  library  and  church  is  free ;  in  other  cases  a  single  visitor 
pays  a  fee  of  60  c,  a  party  1-2  p.  —  No  notice  should  be  taken  of  the  im- 
portunate guides  and  children,  who  molest  the  tourist  even  in  the  church. 

The  village  of  Escoridl  congists  of  two  parts :  the  old  village  of 
Eacori&l  de  Abajo  (3030  ft.),  lying  to  the  £.  of  the  rail,  station,  and  the 
npper  village  of  Eseorifil  de  Arriba  (ca.  3300  ft.),  situated  on  a  S.  spur 
of  the  Guadarrama  Mts.  and  containing  3100  inhabitants.  The  latter, 
which  is  a  favourite  summer-resort  of  the  Madrilenos,  is  abont  1  M. 
to  the  N.W.  of  the  rail,  station,  whence  it  is  reached  either  by  a 
shadeless  road  or  hy  a  somewhat  shorter  footpath,  both  skirting  the 
Jardin  del  Prfncipe  (p.  116).  The  name  Escorial,  which  the  Orient- 
alist Casiri  deriTes  from  the  Arabic  ('place  of  rocks*),  comes  more 
probably  from  the  refuse  (scoriae)  of  its  abandoned  iron-mines. 

The  upper  village  owes  its  existence  to  the  foundation  of  the 
Beal  Sitio  or  Beal  Monasterio  de  Ban  Lorenso  del  Sscoriil,  As 
the  story  goes,  Philip  VL  vowed,  during  the  battle  of  St.  Quentln, 
fought  on  the  day  of  St.  Lawrence  (Aug.  10th),  1667,  that  he  would 
baild  a  convent  to  this  saint,  a  Roman  soldier  and  martyr  of  Spanish 
birth,  in  compensation  for  the  necessary  destruction  by  the  Spani9h 
artillery  of  a  chureh  dedicated  to  him.  As  a  matter  of  fact  the  battle 
of  St.  Qnentin  was  won  by  Philibert  of  Savoy,  and  Philip  did  not 
reach  ^e  field  till  all  was  over.  It  is,  however,  quite  credible  that 
this  victory  may  have  induced  Philip  to  add  a  convent  to  the  burial 
church  which  he  was  bound  to  erect  by  his  father's  will;  while  the 
deep  Impression  made  on  him  by  the  much  wondered  at  and  much 
landed  renunciation  by  Charles  V.  (d.  1568)  of  a  crown  for  the 
cloister  (1566)  may  have  suggested  the  idea  of  combining  a  country 
residence  for  himself  with  the  new  monastery.  After  a  search  of 
two  years  the  spot  uniting  the  desired  qualities  of  solitude  and 
comparative  proximity  to  Madrid  was  found  above  the  village  of 
Escorial.  Juan  Bautista  de  Toledo,  an  eminent  architect  who  had 
studied  in  Naples  and  Rome,  was  summoned  by  Philip  in  1559  to 
carry  his  plans  into  effect;  but  this  artist  died  in  1563  after  super- 


110  Routed.  ESCORIAL. 

intending  the  preliminary  operations  and  laying  the  foundation-stone. 
No  less  eminent  was  his  successor  Jiuin  de  jperreray  who  had  learned 
his  art  in  Brussels,  accompanied  Charles  V.  in  his  Italian  cam- 
paigns, and  followed  him  with  his  body-guard  to  the  monastery  of 
Ynste,  after  which  he  had  acted  as  assistant  to  Juan  Bautista. 
Philip  II.  himself,  however,  was  largely  responsible  for  the  building. 
Not  only  w^^s  the  general  idea  his,  but  he  cooperated  with  the  ar- 
chitects in  making  the  plans  and  sketches,  he  dedded  technical 
questions,  he  selected  native  and  foreign  artiste  to  assist  in  the  work, 
and  he  kept  a  sharp  eye  on  every  department  and  every  worker.  The 
building  was  carried  on  with  extraordinary  rapidity.  The  cross  was 
placed  above  the  dome  in  1581,  and  on  Sept.  13th,  1664,  the  final 
stone  was  laid  in  position.  The  Pantheon,  or  burial-vault,  was, 
however,  finished  by  Philip's  grandson,  Philip  IV.  The  total  cost  of 
the  structure  is  estimated  at  16,500,000  pesetas  (660,000 «.). 

According  to  the  popular  notion,  the  ground-plan  of  the  Escorial 
represents  the  gridiron  on  which  St.  Lawrence  suffered  martyrdom, 
the  royal  palace  standing  for  the  handle.  The  style  is  that  of  the 
late  Renaissance  of  N.  Italy  and  Rome,  which  seeks  for  effect  by  its 
proportions  alone.  The  Doric  order  is  the  one  preferred.  The  huge 
wall-surfaces  are  destitute  of  ornament  and  broken  only  by  small 
windows.  The  material  used  is  the  whitish-grey  granite  of  Peralejos. 
Thus  the  Escorial,  one  of  the  most  remarkable  edifices  of  all  time, 
seems  to  grow  organically  out  of  the  stony  sides  of  the  Guadarrama 
Mts.,  and  resembles,  except  in  its  majestic  facade  with  its  three 
well-ordered  doorways,  a  fortress  Or  a  prison.  For  the  decoration  of 
the  interior  Philip  caused  his  ambassadors  in  Rome,  Florence,  and 
Genoa  to  search  for  painters.  The  most  eminent  of  those  who  respond- 
ed to  his  invitation  were  Fed,  Zixccari,  Luca  CambiasOy  and  Pelle- 
grino  TibcddL  The  most  prominent  of  the  Spanish  artists  employed 
was  Juan  Fernandez  Navarrete  of  Logrofio.   Comp.  p.  Ixviii. 

^The  Escorial  is  an  example  of  what  the  will  can,  and  what  it  cannot 
do.  It  has  been  said  that  will  is  all-powerful:  within  certain  limits  this 
is  true,  bat  it  is  impotent  to  create  one  work  of  genius.  This  divine  spark 
is  lacking  in  Philip's  creation.  He  had  the  misfortune  to  belong  to  an 
age  which  was  gifted  neither  with  creative  power  nor  with  taste,  and 
which  was  above  all  but  little  adapted  for  the  production  of  a  monunaent 
of  high  religions  art.  Thns  a  rigid  geometrical  design  was  impreased  on 
the  whole,  while  it  was  executed  in  a  style  which  its  contemporaries 
termed  noble  simplicity  and  its  admirers  majesty,  while  the  taste  of  to- 
day finds  it  only  repulsive  dryness.  Finally,  the  way  in  which  the  royal 
builder  prescribed  the  most  minute  detail*,  his  restless  and  omnipresent 
superintendence  ^  his  often  niggling  criticism  ^  his  sombre  habit  of  docking 
the  designs  submitted  to  him  of  all  that  seemed  over-rich  or  too  osten- 
tatious —  these  and  other  similar  causes  could  not  but  paralyse  the  joy 
of  creative  energy ....  Without  freedom  neither  beauty  nor  truth  ia  po8<« 
sible.  The  spirit  of  stem  etiquette,  which  Philip  impressed  on  the  Spanish 
court  and  which  proved  so  pernicious  to  the  mental  forces  of  his  suc- 
cessors, looks  at  us  with  petrifying  efifect  from  his  building.  And  the 
great  charm  of  the  EscoriaU  as  forming  as  it  were  a  part  of  the  landscape 
in  which  it  is  set,  was  one  not  contemplated  by  its  builders'  (*Philip  II. 
als  Kunstfreund',  by  C.  Jutti). 


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-  |.  J  P,     Ptii-tri  fa  rir  la  biblidif't  a 
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■"^        ^  Jiub-SubJdii  11  Ui?i  a|ios4pn1ns 

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KSGORIAL.  9.  Route,   HI 

*Th«  grand  »&d  gloomy  fabric  towera  over  the  roeky  deaert  —  a  monu- 
ment of  solidity  —  too  melancholy  to  be  proud,  too  dignified  to  be  defiant, 
but  calmly  conscious  of  its  iron  strengtb,  and  impressing  beholders  with 

a  comvietion  of  its  indestmctability It  seems  to  stand  with  sullen 

determination  there  where  it  was  placed  in  the  very  heart  of  the  gierra 
—  stone  of  its  stone,  and  strong  of  its  strength,  a  giant  among  giants ; 
for,  strange  to  say,  its  proportions  suffer  no  diminution  from  the  lofty 
objects  with  which  it  is  surrounded'  (^Cosm  de  Eapafia\  by  Mr»,  Pitt  Bpmi), 

The  Eseorial  lies  to  the  W.  of,  and  a  little  below  the  village,  on 
a  plate-like  depression  made  level  by  the  aid  of  huge  snbstractures 
of  masonTy.  The  immense  building  fonns  a  rectangle  measuring 
680  ft.  from  W.N.W.  to  E.S.E.  and  530  ft.  in  width.  The  four 
Tovjeri  at  the  angles  are  supposed  to  be  the  f^et  of  the  gridiron. 
On  the  W.  the  building  is  adjoined  by  the  Plaza  del  Monasterio,  a 
wide  court  partly  paved  with  slabs  of  granite ;  to  the  N.  is  the  Galle 
de  la  Parada;  to  the  S.  and  £.  are  terrace-gardens.  To  the  N.  and 
W.  are  the  Compaha,  a  series  of  administrative  offices,  stables,  and 
the  like,  so  called  from  their  'accompanying'  the  main  parallelogram, 
and  also  an  Eacuela  EspeeUil  de  IngerUeros  de  Monies^  or  school  of 
forestry.  —  The  kernel  of  the  rectangle  is  formed  by  the  Templo  or 
church,  the  dome  and  towers  of  which  rise  high  above  the  neigh- 
bouring buildings,  while  the  E.  end  (*Oapilla  May6r')  projects  some- 
what beyond  the  line  of  the  outer  walls.  The  church  is  adjoined  on 
the  S.  by  the  spacious  Paiio  de  lo8  EvangeliatcUj  or  cloisters,  and  on 
the  W.  by  the  Paiio  de  losReyea,  or  entrance-court.  The  rest  of  the 
parallelogram  is  divided  up  into  small  courts  and  transverse  build- 
ings. The  buildings  next  the  walls  are  several  stories  in  height, 
and  their  rooms  and  corridors  are  lighted  only  by  the  windows  on 
the  outside.  The  royal  apartments  (Palacio  Redl)  occupy  the  ad- 
vanced building  forming  a  prolongation  of  the  capilla  mayor.  The 
sacristy  and  chapter-rooms  (Salas  Capitvlares)  are  in  the  outer  build- 
ings to  the  S.  of  the  church.  Almost  all  the  other  rooms,  especially 
those  to  the  S.,  W.,  and  N.,  were  used  as  conventual  apartments, 
including  cells  for  the  monks,  the  library,  and  the  refectories.  In  all 
there  are  said  to  be  16  courts  (pdtioa)^  2673  windows  (of  which  1562 
open  on  the  courts),  1200  doors,  86  staircases,  and  89  fountains. 
The  total  length  of  the  corridors  is  about  100  M.  —  Since  1885  the 
Escorial  has  been  in  the  hands  of  the  AugusUnes  (Agmtinos  Calsuidos)^ 
who  manage  the  Colegio  in  the  N.W.  part  of  the  building.  This  is  a 
school  giving  a  complete  education,  beginning  with  elementary 
classes,  to  boys  destined  either  for  a  clerical  or  a  secular  career. 

The  Main  Entbanob  (Portico  Principal  del  Monastetio)  is  in  the 
middle  of  the  W.  facade,  and  is  noticeable  for  the  huge  blocks  of 
stone  of  which  it  is  constructed.  Above  the  door  is  a  Statue  of  St. 
Lawrence^  13  ft.  in  height,  by  J.  B.  Monegro.  In  his  left  hand  the 
saint  holds  a  book,  in  his  right  a  gilded  gridiron;  the  head  and  hands 
are  of  white  marble,  the.  rest  of  the  figure  of  granite.  —  Through  the 
Ybstibvlb,  the  door  to  the  right  within  which  leads  to  the  Library 
of  Printed  Books  (p.  115),  we  reach  the  — 


112  Rouie9.  ESCOMAL. 

P&tio  de  loi  Be^rei,  a  court  204  ft.  long  and  118  ft.  wide,  en- 
closed by  the  cliurcli  (E.  end)  and  other  buildings.  It  derives  its 
name  from  the  six  statues  of.  'Kay.es  de  Juda'  (Jehoshaphat^  Hezekiah, 
David,  Solomon,  Josiah,  and  Manaateh)  which  stand  on  Doric  columns 
on  the  facade  of  the  church.  Each  figure  was  carved  by  J.  B.  Monegro 
out  of  a  single  block  of  granite;  the  heads  and  hands  are  of  white 
marble,  the  crowns  and  sceptres  of  gilded  bronze. 

The  *Chiiroh  is  architecturally  the  masterpiece  of  the  Esoorial. 
It  is  flanked  by  two  towers,  each  about  230  ft.  high,  and  is  surmounted 
by  a  huge  dome  and  lantern,  over  which  are  piled,  one  above  another, 
a  fluted  pyramid  26  ft.  high,  a  hoUowball  &^jifi,  in  diameter  and 
IY2  *on  in  weight,  and  (lastly)  a  cross,  the  top  of  which  is  312  ft. 
above  the  floor  of  the  church.  The  visitor  may  ascend  to  the  lantern 
by  an  outside  staircase,  but  the  result  scarcely  repays  the  toil* 

The  Intebiob  is  entered  by  one  of  the  small  doors  to  the  right  and 
left;  the  main  door  is  opened  only  for  royal  personages,  alive  or 
dead.  We  first  find  ourselves  in  the  dark  Coro  Bajoj  or  lower  choir, 
beneath  the  Coro  Alto  (p.  113).  —  The  church  is  built,  on  the  model 
of  the  original  plan  of  St.  Peter's  at  Rome,  in  the  form  of  a  Greek 
cross,  over  the  intersection  of  which  rises  a  dome  (cimhorio)  296  ft. 
high  and  55  ft.  in  diameter.  The  nave  and  aisles  are  covered  with 
very  flat,  and  therefore  bold  vaulting.  The  dome,  of  unpainted 
granite,  rests  on  four  massive  piers,  each  35  ft.  in  diameter,  and  on 
the  arches  uniting  these  piers.  These  dimensions  are  extraordinary ; 
and  'it  taxes  the  imagination  to  realize  that  we  are  here  simply  in 
one  fraction  of  a  building'.  Amid  the  formal  harmony,  where  each 
proportion  has  the  force  of  a  mathematical  law,  the  48  altars,  and 
still  more  the  large  frescoes  on  the  vaults,  seem  almost  an  imper- 
tinence. The  handsome  flooring  is  of  white  and  grey  marble. 

.  The  Altars,  some  of  which  are  adorned  with  valuable  paintings,  are 
placed  against  the  piers  and  In  the  various  ChapeU.  —  Eight  of  the  com- 
partments of  the  vaulting  are  adorned  with  Fuscoes  by  Luea  Giordano, 
representing  the  following  scenes:  Vault  1  (N.E.),  Annunciation,  Concep- 
tion, Nativity,  Adoration  of  the  Angels  and  the  Magi;  Vault  2  (S.B.\ 
Israelites  in  the  wilderness  •,  Vault  3  (N.W.),  Triumph  of  the  Church 
Militant ;  Vault  4  (W.  end  of  central  aisle),  Last  Judgment;  Vault  6  (S.W.) 
Allegory  of  the  Immaculate  Conception ;  Vault  6  (middle  of  S.  aisle), 
Victory  of  the  Israelites  over  the  Amalekites ;  Vault  7  (to  the  left  of  the 
high-altar  and  above  the  altar  of  St.  Jerome),  Condemnation  of  St.  Jerome ; 
Vault  8  (in. front  of  the  capilla  mayor),  Death,  Burial,  and  Assumption 
of  the  Virgin. 

The  •Capilla  Mayob,  which  is  reached  by  a  flight  of  steps,  con- 
tains the  high-altar,  the  so-called  oratories,  and  the  royal  tombs. 

The  retablo  of  the  High  Altar,  98  ft.  in  height,  executed  by  Oiaeomo 
Trezzo  of  Milan,  consists  of  the  most  costly  varieties  of  marble  and  shows 
all  the  four  orders  of  architecture.  The  capitals  and  bases  of  the  columns 
are  of  bronze  gilded.  The  15  gilt-bronze  figures  and  the  medallions  are 
by  Leone  and  Pompeo  Leont,  two  Italian  masters.  The  paintings  are  by 
PeUegrino  Tihaldi  and  Federigo  Zuccari.  Behind  the  altar  lies  the  founda- 
tion-stone Cla  primera  piedra')  of  the  church.  —  To  the  right  and  left 
of  the  altar  are  the  Oratorios,  four  low  chambers  of  black  marble.  Above 
these  are   the  Entierros  Boales,  with  kneeling    *  Bronze-gilt  Figures    of 


ESGORTAL.  9.  Route,    113 

roy»I  penoaagM  by  finnpto  Le<mt  (IS  ft.  high).  Those  to  the  right  are 
Ckarle*  F.,  Qtuf  Jsabetta  (motber  of  Philip  II.),  their  daughter  Maria,  and 
Charleses  sistera  Leonora  and  Maria.  To  the  left  are  PhiUp  IT,,  his  fourth 
wife  Anna  (mother  of  Philip  III. ;  to  his  right),  his  third  wife  ItaMla 
(behind  him),  and  his  first  wife  Maria  of  Fortugai,  with  her  son  Don 
Ctarios.    The  statues  are  all  portraits  and  admirable  in  detail. 

Tbe  Seliedrio,  in  the  aisle  to  the  right  of  the  high-altar,  once 
contained  an  immense  treasure  of  relics  and  valuables,  but  is  now 
uninteresting.  The  SagrMo^  behind  the  high-altar,  has  equally 
little  to  oflTer.  We  turn  to  the  S.  to  the  Bajdda  d  ha  Panteonea 
(PI.  B),  or  entrance  to  the  Pantheon. 

The  *Psateta  d«  lot  Beyeif  or  burial -yanlt  of  the  Spanish 
monarch s,  was  constructed  by  Philip  II.  immediately  under  the  high- 
altar,  so  that  mass  might  be  said  daily  over  the  royal  remains.  When 
the  priest  elevates  the  host  he  is  standing  exactly  above  the  dead 
kings.  A  granite  stslrcase  of  twenty-live  steps  descends  to  the  first 
landing,  with  the  entrances  to  the  Panteon  de  los  Infantes  (see  below) 
and  to  the  IStdHdero^  a  chamber  in  which  the  bodies  are  kept  for 
five  years  before  removal  to  their  final  resting-place.  We  then 
pass  through  a  door  of  Toledo  marble  and  descend  another  flight  of 
thirty-four,  somewhat  slippery,  marble  steps.  —  The  Panteon  de  los 
Reyes,  which  was  not  finished  till  1654,  is  an  octagonal  vault,  about 
33  ft.  in  diameter  and  about  the  same  in  height.  As  Philip  planned 
it,  it  was  of  a  suitable  and  impressive  simplicity,  but  his  successors 
spoiled  the  eifect  by  overloading  the  sombre  chamber  with  marble 
and  gold.  Opposite  the  entrance  is  the  high-altar,  with  a  crucifix 
of  gilded  bronze  by  Pietro  Tacea,  To  the  left  of  the  altar  are  four 
rows  of  niches  in  which  the  kings  of  Spain  are  interred;  to  the  left 
are  similar  niches  for  the  queens.  All  contain  sarcophagi  of  black 
marble,  with  inscriptions  in  gilded  letters.  Philip  V.  (comp.  p.  121)  and 
Ferdinand  VI.  and  his  wife  are  buried  elsewhere.  Only  a  few  of  the 
26  niches  are  still  unoccupied.  —  The  ♦Pantb6n  db  i*os  Infantbs  is 
the  burial-vault  of  the  royal  princes  and  princesses  and  of  those  of 
the  queens  who83  children  did  not  succeed  to  the  throne.  Among 
those  buried  here  are  Leonora  and  Maria,  sisters  of  Oharles  Y. ; 
Eli%abeih  of  ValoU;  Maria  of  Portugal  and  her  son  Don  Carlos; 
Baltaaar  Carlos,  son  of  Philip  IT.;  the  Duke  of  Vend6me,  natural 
son  of  Louis  XIV.;  and  Don  John  of  Austria^  transferred  hither  from 
Namnr  in  1679. 

A  door  in  the  S.E.  comer  of  the  church,  adjoining  the  staircase  to 
the  Panteon,  leads  to  the  Ante-Sacrlstfa  and  the  8acristfa(p.  114). 
A  stairease  in  the  passage  to  the  Ante-Sacrist(a  leads  to  the  Coeo  Alto, 
or  Upper  Choir,  which  is  at  the  W.  end  of  the  church,  above  the 
Lower  Choir  (p.  112).  It  was  here  that  the  monks  assembled 
for  their  devotions,  in  which  Philip  II.  often  shared.  His  seat  was 
the  last  in  the  S.W.  comer,  adjoining  a  private  door,  through  which, 
during  the  vesper  service  on  Nov.  8th,  1571,  a  messenger  annonnced 
the  victory  of  Lepanto  (Oct.  6th),   which  saved  Europe  from  the 

Baipbkxs's  Spain.  8 


114  Route  9.  ESOORIAL. 

Turks.  The  king  continued  his  devotions  as  if  nothing  had  happened ; 
but  at  the  end  of  the  service  he  ordered  the  Te  Deum  to  be  iihanted. 
On  April  14th  and  16th,  1547,  Philip  attended  the  solemn  notturno 
and  requiem  held  here  in  honour  of  Mary  Stuart.  The  simple  but 
imposing  choir-stalls  were  designed  by  Herrera.  The  large  lectern 
and  the  crystal  chandelier  should  also  be  noticed.  The  worthless 
frescoes  on  the  walls  and  ceiling  are  by  dncinato  and  Luqueto.  — 
Adjoining  are  the  ArUeeoroSj  containing  a  statue  of  St.  Lawrence 
(manufactured  out  of  an  ancient  Roman  statue),  some  frescoes  by 
Luca  Giordano  J  and  pictures  of  SS.  Peter  and  Andrew  by  Navarrete, 
TYkelAbreria  del  Coro  contains  219  colossal  ohoir^books  of  parchment, 
some  of  them  over  3  ft.  high,  finely  bound  and  embellished  with 
miniatures  by  the  monks  Andres  de  Ledn  and  Julian  de  la  F^ienie.  To 
the  W.  of  the  Goro  Alto  is  a  small  room  containing  a  large  and  cel- 
ebrated marble  crucifix  by  Benvenuto  Cellinij  bearing  the  inscription: 
Benvenulua  Celinua  civis  FLorentinua  faciebat  1662.  It  was  presented 
by  the  Duke  of  Tuscany  to  Philip  II.,  who  is  said  to  have  caused  it 
to  be  carried  on  men's  shoulders  all  the  way  from  Barcelona. 

Through  the  AnteSacrUtia  we  enter  the  Sacristift,  a  fine  cham- 
ber 95  ft.  long  and  26  ft.  wide,  containing  a  few  pictures  and  some 
handsome  mirrors.  The  ceiling  is  frescoed  by  Nic,  Grandlo  and  Fod- 
ricio  CasteUo.  At  the  S.  end  of  the  room  is  the  Betctblo  de  la  Santa 
Forma^  containing  a  host  (Santa  Forma)  which  is  said  to  have  bled 
when  trampled  on  by  Zwingllan  soldiers  at  Gorkum  in  Holland 
(1526).  It  was  sent  to  the  relic-loving  Philip  by  Emp.  Rudolph  II. 
of  Germany.  The  large  ♦Painting  by  Clattdio  Coelh,  which  conceals 
the  Santa  Forma,  represents  its  solemn  deposition  in  this  sacristy. 
The  heads  are  all  portraits,  including  Charles  II.  (kneeling),  the 
Dukes  of  Medinaceli  and  Pastrana,  the  historian  Santos  (the  prior 
with  the  'custodia'),  and  others.  In  the  lower  left  corner  is  the  paint- 
er himself,  who  devoted  seven  years'  labour  to  this  picture.  —  Be- 
hind the  altar  lies  the  Camarinj  a  richly  decorated  chamber,  built 
by  Josi  del  Olmo  and  Francesco  Bizi  in  1692  and  containing  a  *  custo- 
dia' for  the  Santa  Forma,  presented  by  Queen  Isabella  II.  On  Sept. 
29th  and  Oct.  28th  the  altar-piece  by  Ooello  is  drawn  up  and  tiie 
Santa  Forma  exhibited  to  the  public. 

We  now  return  through  the  Ante-Sacristfa  to  the  Lower  Cloisters 
(ClavLStro  Principdl  Bajojj  surrounding  the  Pdtio  de  los  EvangeUstasj 
a  court  160  ft.  square,  which  is  so  called  from  the  statues  by  Mon- 
egro.  Ixi  the  middle  is  a  templete  or  small  temple.  The  frescoes  have 
no  artistic  value.  —  The  S.  side  of  the  cloisters  is  occupied  by  the 
Chapter  Booms  (Solas  Capituldresjj  containing  a  small  but  choice 
*  Collection  of  Paintings^  which  deserves  careful  attention  even  though 
many  of  its  chief  treasures  have  found  their  way  to  the  Prado. 

Cbntaal  Booh.  To  the  left,  Coxcie,  Annanciation,  Kativity;  in  frunt, 
Panto ja  de  la  Cruz^  Charles  V.  —  We  then  proceed  to  the  right  to  the 
8 ALA  VicartIl.  To  Ihe  right:  Ribera,  St.  Jerome;  Paolo  Veronete,  An- 
nunciation; *Velazquezy  Jacob  and  his  Sons,  painted  at  Feme  at  the  same 


ESGORIAL.  9,RouU.    115 

time  »  ^Voteui's  Forge'  (p.  74)  ^  JUberoj  Jeoob  end  hia  sbeep  \  Jac^po  Tin- 
toreUo^  Weehing  the  Diadples*  feet^  Lmta  Givrdaito^  Beleenff  es«t  Nwfor- 
rete,  Exeenttoe  of  St.  Jamea  the  Oieetert  fVnferflle,  ITetivity.  Bnd-wall, 
oppofite  the  entrence:  Btffhtrs^  Flowen*,  Ribera^  Two  portraits.  Window 
wall:  Fahna  Oiowang^  St.  Jerome:  L.  Oiordano^  Conrertlon  of  St.  Paul; 
TiHan^  St  Margaret  (eopy):  L,  Oiordtmo,  Apollo  and  Marfyaa,  PalUs  and 
Araehnei  JUb^ra.  Vativity  (two  pictaret)i  Giordano,  The  Magdalen  i  *Bi' 
bera^  The  Trinity.  —  Sala  Pbioeal,  to  the  left  of  the  Oeotral  Boom. 
Entranee-wall :  aehaoHamo  del  Fiombo,  Seourging  of  Chriat  (eopy)  \  Vonetitm 
School,  The  Marie?  at  the  Sepnlchre.  Farther  on,  to  the  left:  J>om.  Thoo- 
tocoptUij  Martyrdom  of  St.  Maurice,  marked  hy  the  strange  colouring  pe- 
culiar to  this  master;  TitOoTBtto,  Esther  before  Ahsfuerus;  9VMan,  Last 
SuppcT  (repainted)  last  disciple  to  the  left  said  to  be  a  portrait  of  Titian 
hiaiflelf) ;  Tktiorotto,  Magdalen  washing  the  feet  of  Je«Q«  \  Thootooo]^,  Dream 
of  Philip  II.,  in  which  he  seei  Heaven,  Hell,  and  Purgatory  \  *Iiogor  van 
dor  Wegden,  Descent  ftrom  the  Gross  (comp.  p.  76).  End -wall,  opposite 
the  entraaee:  Morio  dH  Fiori,  aoghoro,  Flower>pieeef  i  TMan,  Christ  on 
the  Mt.  of  Olires  (a  late  work).  Window-wall:  Three  paintings  by  Bm- 
»ano;  Giordano,  Noah  intoxicated)  Yacearo,  Lot  and  his  family  leaving  Sodom ; 
TMoroito,  Deposition  In  the  Tomb. 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  cloisters  is  the  Old  Chuboh  (Igliria  An- 
Ugua;  generally  closed),  which  vas  used  during  the  building  of  the 
Urge  church.  It  contains  three  pictures  hy  Titian:  Adoration  of 
the  Mftgl,  Ecce  Homo,  Martyrdom  of  St.  Lawrence.  —  In  the  middle 
of  the  same  side  of  the  cloisters  is  a  magnificent  Stai&oasb  (EseaUra 
Prineipdl),  the  masterpiece  of  Juan  Bautisia  de  Toledo  and  J.  B,  Caa- 
Ullo  (El  Bergamasco),  It  is  adorned  with  a  frieze  by  L.  Giordano ^ 
representing  the  Capture  of  the  Constable  Montmorency  at  St.  Quen- 
tin,  and  Philip  II.  with  the  architects  of  the  Escorial  (portraits).  The 
Gloria  (Apotheosis  of  St.  Lawrence)  on  the  ceiling  is  also  by  Oior- 
dano  and  contains  portraits  of  Charles  Y.,  Philip  II.,  Charles  II.,  and 
the  wife  and  mother  of  the  last.   The  other  frescoes  are  worthless. 

The  Ufpbb  Cloistbbs  (Clauilro  Principdl  Alio)  haye  good  paint- 
ings by  Navarrete  (St.  Jerome,  Nativity,  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds, 
Christ  appearing  to  his  Mother).  Yisltors,  however,  are  not  admitted. 

The  ^Library  of  Fzinted  Books  (BiJblioUca  de  Impresoa)  occupies 
a  large  room  (170  ft.  long)  above  the  portico  leading  to  the  Patio  de 
los  Reyes  (entr.,  see  p.  111).  It  is  decorated  with  warmly  coloured 
frescoes  by  Pellegrino  Tibaldi  and  Bartolommeo  Carducci  and  con- 
tains five  handsome  tables  of  porphyry  and  jasper.  The  book-cases 
were  designed  by  Herrera.  The  older  books  stand  with  their  fronts 
towards  the  spectator  and  have  their  titles  stamped  on  the  gilt  edges. 

Among  the  nnmerons  extremely  rare  and  valuable  works  may  be  men- 
tioned the  Cddiee  Aureo^  containing  the  Gospels,  etc.,  written  for  the  German 
Emp.  Conrad  II.  and  finished  about  1060  under  Henry  III.  \  the  C6dlc$  Viffiliano 
C9Te);  the  Cddiet  SnHUano  (984):  the  Cddiee  de  Beteia  (11th  cent),  with  reports 
of  the  Councils;  the  Cantigae  de  Banta  Maria  and  other  workfl  otA\fon»o  the 
Learned  (18th  cent.);  the  RevelaHon  of  St.  John,  a  M8.  of  the  16th  cent.; 
a  Spanish  MS.  of  Vinfife  jBHoid  (16th  cent.) ;  Greek  MS8. ;  Brooiary  of  Ohar- 
fe«;;F.,  firom  the  Convent  of  Yaste;  JYa^er  Book  (Dooodondrio)  of  Jtabella 
of  J\>rhiifal,  wife  of  Charles  Y. ;  Herbarium  of  American  plants,  in  13  vols.; 
ArcMe  Koran  of  1694;  Globe  used  by  PhUip  n.  in  his  astrological  studies. 
—  On  the  walls  hang  *FortraiU.  Near  the  8.  end,  Serrera,  architect  of 
the  Escorial.    At  the  N.  end,  Ariat  Montano,  first  librarian  of  this  collection. 

8* 


116  RouUd,  ESCORIAL. 

To  the  left,  FhUip  II.  at  the  age  of  71,  by  Pantoja  de  la  Cruz  or  Sir  A. 
More;  Charles  V.  at  the  age  of  49,  by  Pantoja  de  la  Crut  after  Titian; 
PhiUp  III.1  by  the  same;  Charles  II.  at  the  age  of  14,  by  CarreSio. 

The  extensive  Libbaby  of  the  Manuscbifts  (BibUoteca  de  Ma- 
mjucritos)  is  shown  only  to  visitors  provided  with  a  special  peimis- 
sion  from  the  Intendente  de  la  Real  Gasa  at  Madrid  (p.  60). 

We  now  leave  the  convent  by  the  main  W.  doorway  and  proceed 
through  the  Plaza  del  Monasterio  (p.  Ill),  passing  the  Colegio 
(p.  HI),  to  the  entrance  in  the  middle  of  the  N.  facade.  This  is  the 
Entrada  de  Falaeio^  leading  to  the  — 

Fal&eio  Beal.  Philip  II.,  in  his  own  expression,  wanted  nothing 
more  than  a  ^cell,  in  which  he  might  bear  his  weary  limbs  to  the 
grave' ;  his  snccessors  created  a  palace  and  decorated  it  in  the  usual 
style  of  the  17-18th  centuries. 

We  ascend  a  granite  staircase  to  the  First  Floob,  the  rooms  of  which 
are  decorated  with  Spanish  tapestry  (tapices)  after  Ooya^  Bayeu^  and  Maella^ 
from  the  Tapicerfa  of  Madrid  (p.  97),  and  with  Flemish  tapestry  after  Teniers 
and  others.  The  8a!a  de  las  Batallas  (178  ft.  long)  is  adorned  with  frescoes 
(restored  in  1882-89)  by  IT.  Oranello  and  Fdbrieio  CastellOy  representing  the 
battles  of  Higueruela  (p.  331),  Lepanto,  St.  Qaentin,  and  Pa  via,  the  expe- 
dition to  the  Azores,  etc.  That  of  the  battle  of  Higueruela  was  copied  in 
1587  from  a  piece  of  tapestry  (130  ft.  long)  found  in  the  Alcazar  of  Segovia, 
and  is  of  great  historical  interest  for  its  picture  of  the  dress  of  the  period. 
—  Four  rooms  fitted  up  by  Charles  IV.,  at  a  cost  of  7,000,000  p.,  are  known 
as  Las  Piezas  de  Madiras  Finos  ('the  rooms  of  fine  woods').  —  A  narrow  stair- 
case descend?  to  the  Ground  Floor,  with  the  'Cells  of  Philip  II.\  a  series 
of  humble  apartments,  in  which  the  Spanish  monarch  lived  and  held 
audiences.  In  a  small  room  overlooking  the  capilla  may6r  of  the  church 
(p.  112)  Philip  died  on  Sept.  13th,  1598,  after  a  long  and  painful  illness, 
during  which  he  sought  consolation  in  prayer  and  in  gazing  at  the  high- 
altar.  The  crucifix  he  held  was  the  same  that  had  been  grasped  by  the 
dying  hands  of  his  father.      

Turning  to  the  left  on  issuing  from  the  principal  portico  on  the 
W.  side  of  the  convent,  we  enter  the  Oardens,  which  form  a  broad 
terrace,  affording  an  extensive  ♦View  of  the  lower  gardens,  the  plain 
of  New  Castile,  and  the  Guadarrama  Mts.  They  are  diversified  by  high 
box-hedges  and  grottoes. 

The  Casita  del  Principe  or  Casita  de  Ahajo  (adm.,  see  p.  109) 
was  built  by  Villanueva  (p.  107)  in  1772  for  Prince  Charles.  To 
reach  it,  we  descend  the  Calle  de  la  Parada  along  the  N.  side  of  the 
convent  for  6  min. ,  and  then  turn  to  the  right  into  the  Calle  Larga, 
which  separates  the  monastery  gardens  from  the  lower  park.  A  gate 
to  the  left  admits  us  to  the  uninteresting  grounds  of  the  Casita, 
which  itself  lies  in  the  S.E.  comer  of  the  enclosure.  The  Casita  is 
a  *CaBa  de  Recrtfo',  like  the  Casa  del  Labrad6r  at  Aranjuez  (p.  125), 
two  stories  in  height  and  containing  small  and  low  rooms.  It  is,  how- 
ever, even  more  riohly  adorned  with  paintings,  china  from  the  man- 
ufactory of  Buen  Retire  (p.  86),  reliefs,  ivory  carvings,  and  em- 
broideries. Among  the  pictures  are  a  Daughter  of  Herodias  hy  Ca- 
ravaggio,  a  St.  Cecilia  by  Domenichino,  a  St.  John  by  Annibale 
Carracci^  and  three  works  (St.  Catharine,  Death  of  Julian  the  Apos- 


SEGOVIA.  9,R(mU.   117 

tate,  and  Gonversion  of  St.  Paul)  by  Luea  Oiordano.  —  A  gateway 
in  tha  lower  part  of  the  gardens  leads  direct  to  the  railway-station. 

Those  with  plenty  of  time  at  their  diaposal  may  visit  the  Com  dd  In- 
fante or  Com  de  Jrriba^  built  for  the  Infante  Gabriel  (1762-88)>nd  standing 
in  a  pretty  garden.  About  2  M.  to  the  S.  is  the  8flla  del  Rey.hrotkj  nest 
whenee  FhlUp  II.  snrveyed  the  progress  of  the  Escorial.  —  The  woodi  of 
the  fferreria  (named  after  the  architect),  to  the  S.  of  the  Escorial,  afford 
pleasant  walks  ^  and  the  Cerro  de  lot  Arantes  (4600  ft.),  a  somewhat  stiff  climb 
of  2Vs  hrs.,  commands  an  admirable  view. 

A  good  road  leads  from  the  Escorial  direct  to  La  Qranja  (p.  130)  vift 
Ouadarrama  (p.  62).  Carriage-hire  is,  however,  very  high  \  and  the  solitary 
fonrist  will  do  better  by  taking  the  railway  to  Segovia. 

b.  Segovia  and  La  Chrai^a. 

63  M.  Bailwat  to  Segovia  vi&  VillaXba  (np.  52,  61;  three  trains  daily 
ia  scunmer)  in  3y4-4  hrs.  (fares  11  p.  66,  8  p.  to,  6  p.  %  c).  Departure  from 
the  JEstaeidn  del  iforte  (p.  58).  No  return-tickets.  In  summer  tickets  may 
be  taken  and  luggage  booked  through  to  La  Granj%. 

From  Madrid  to  (63  M.)  Segovia,  see  pp.  62,  61. 

Segovia.  —  BaUway  SUtion  (PI.  E,  i),  in  the  S.E.  part  of  the  city. 
Hotels  (comp.  p.  xx).   Fovda  Bdxgalksa,  Plaza  Mayor  (PI.  B,  3),  pens. 
8  p.  -y  FoHDA  Oktioosa,  Calle  de  Jnan  Bravo,  both  very  primitive. 
Omnibus  to  La  Granja  several  times  daily  (IVsP-). 

Segdvia  (3300  ft.),  the  capital  of  a  province  of  the  same  name 
and  the  seat  of  a  bishop,  with  about  13,000  inhab.,  is  of  Iberian 
origin,  as  the  frequently  recurring  Iberian  root  aego  (seca)  indicates. 
With  its  Roman  remains,  its  Romanesque  and  other  medieval  churches, 
and  its  characteristic  old  palaces,  it  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  as 
well  as  one  of  the  most  venerable  of  the  cities  of  Castile.  Resembling 
Toledo  as  a  museum  of  antiquities,  it  aUo  resembles  it  in  situation, 
being  perched  on  a  rocky  hill,  about  330  ft.  high,  between  two  small 
streams,  the  Eresma  (N.)  and  the  Clamores  (S.),  which  Join  their 
waters  to  the  W.,  below  the  Alcazar.  This  rocky  knoll  rises  from  E. 
to  W.,  and  its  shape  has  often  been  compared  to  a  ship  in  full  sail 
towards  the  setting  sun.  The  city  consists  of  a  maze  of  narrow  and 
crooked  streets,  with  quaint  old  houses,  centering  in  the  Plata  Mayor 
(PI.  B,  2)  or  Plaza  del  A%oquejo  (from  the  Arabic  SUkh;  see  p.  141). 
On  the  highest  point  of  the  hill  stands  the  cathedral;  on  its  W.  pro- 
montory, where  it  descends  precipitously  on  three  sides,  rises  the 
Alcazar.  Interesting  old  Walls,  dating  partly  from  the  ll-12th  cent, 
and  beginning  at  the  Alcazar,  enclose  the  whole  town.  These  are 
strengthened  with  semicircular  cvhos  (p.  32),  and  broken  by  the 
Puerta  de  Santiago  (PI.  1 ;  B,  1,  2)  on  the  N.W.,  the  imposing 
Puerta  de  San  Andria  (PI.  10 ;  B,  2)  on  the  S.,  and  other  picturesque 
gates.  Down  the  S.E.  slope  stretch  San  Lorenzo,  with  its  once  fam- 
ous doth-iactories,  and  other  suburbs. 

^Segovia  is   an  unmatched   picture   of  the  Middle  Ages.    You  read  its 

history  on  the  old  city-walls  wiui  their  eighty -three  towers ;  in  the  domes 

#  and  belfries  of  its  churches;  in  the  bare  and  blank  ruins  of  its  deserted 

monasteries ;  in  the  battlemented  towers  of  its  noble  mansions'  (Siberian 

BeminisoaikG«s\  by  A.  Gallenga). 


118  ^Routed.  SEGOVIA. 

The  most  important  structure  in  Segovia,  and  at  the  same  time 
the  largest  piece  of  Roman  work  now  extant  in  Spain,  is  the  ** Aque- 
duct, popularly  known  as  El  Puente  or  El  Puente  del  DidblOy  from 
one  of  the]  usual  legends  connected  with  bridge-building.  The 
aqueduct,  probably  dating  from  the  time  of  Trajan,  brings  the  water 
of  the  Fuenfria  from  the  Guadarrama  Mts.  to  the  city,  a  distance 
of  about  10  M.  The  first  part  of  the  conduit,  traversing  the  Pinar 
de  Yalsain  (p.  123),  is  uncovered.  Farther  on  it  passes  under  the 
La  Granja  road  and  reaches  (9  M.)  the  old  tower  of  Caterdn,  The 
next  part  of  the  conduit,  850  yds.  long,  ends  in  a  reservoir  or  stor- 
age-basin. Beyond  this  is  the  aqueduct  proper  (900  yds.  long), 
-which  crosses  the  deep  valley,  the  suburbs,  and  part  of  the  city 
itself,  and  ends  at  the  Alcizar.  Its  119  arches  vary  in  height,  ac- 
cording to  the  conformation*  of  the  ground,  from  23  ft.  to  94  ft.  For 
a  length  of  about  300  yds.  it  consists  of  two  stages.  The  highest 
piers  are  just  above  the  Plaza  Mayor  (p.  117).  The  entire  structure 
is  formed  of  blocks  of  granite,  without  either  mortar  or  clamps.  It 
has  survived  all  the  different  kingdoms  of  the  Iberian  Peninsula. 
During  the  siege  of  Segovia  by  the  Moors  (1071)  -35  arches  were 
destroyed,  but  these  were  rebuilt  in  the  old  manner  by  Juan  Escovedo 
under  Isabella  the  Catholic  (1483).  In  a  niche  above  the  Plaza  Mayor 
is  a  statue  of  the  Virgin,  perhaps  replacing  one  of  Trajan.  —  From 
the  E.  the  houses  of  the  town,  rising  in  terraces,  make  a  curious 
picture  as  seen  through  the  arches  of  the  viaduct.  The  best  points 
to  view  the  viaduct  itself  are  San  Juan  (p.  119)  and  the  corner  of  the 
Calle  de  Gascos. 

The  ♦Cathedral  (PL  B,  2),  on  the  S.W.  side  of  the  Plaza  May6r, 
was  built  in  1526  et  seq.,  to  replace  the  old  cathedral,  which  had 
been  partly  destroyed  by  the  Comuneros.  (p.  63).  The  architects 
were  Juan  Oil  de  Hontanon  and  his  son  Rodrigo  Gil,  who  followed 
the  design  of  their  New  Cathedral  at  Salamanca.  It  is  in  the  form 
of  a  Gothic  basilica,  with  nave,  aisles,  and  two  rows  of  chapels, 
inserted  between  the  flying  buttresses.  Its  length  is  330  ft.,  its 
breadth  158  ft.  j  the  nave  is  44  ft.  wide ,  the  aisles  30  ft.  The 
choir  (core)  is  in  the  middle  of  the  nave.  The  transepts  do  not 
project  beyond  the  side-walls  of  the  church.  Over  the  crossing  rises 
a  cupola  (cimborio),  220  ft.  high.  On  the  E.,  beyond  the  Capilla 
Mayor,  the  building  ends  in  a  chevet  of  seven  polygonal  chapels. 
On  the  S.  side  of  the  somewhat  bare  fa9ade  rises  a  square  tower, 
about  346  ft.  high,  crowned  by  a  cupola.  Behind  it,  adjoining  the 
S.  side  of  the  church,  are  the  cloisters.  The  exterior  of  the  E.  end 
is  almost  too  elaborate  in  its  ornamentation. 

The  effect  of  the  Intebiob  is  light  and  cheerful.  Among  the  chief 
features  of  interest  are  the  Retablo.  by  SabaUni  (end  of  the  18th  cent.)^ 
the  curious  Tra$coro ;  the  marble  flooring ;  the  stained-glass  windows^ 
the  pulpit  1  a  rich  silver  Cwtodia  (ciborium);  and  a  fine  chalice  (c41iz), 
presented  by  the  Duque  de  Albnquerque.  —  The  CapiUa  de  Nuettra  S^Hora  « 
<f«  la  Piedad  (the  fifth  in  the  TS.  aisle)  contains  a  ^Descent  from  the  Cross 
by  Juan  de  Juni,   with  colossal   figures  (1571).    Opppsite  ig  a  painting  of 


SEGOVIA.  9.  Route.    119 

St.  Tttomai  hj  AUmto  Sdntk^t  CoeHo.  —  From  the  Capilta  M  OrUto  da  ' 
ConnuUy  the  fifth  ia  the  right  aisle,  a  beftutifal  Gothic  portal  leads  to 
the  saperb  Qothie  *CL0i8TKBa  (Clausiro),  built  by  Jacm  Camp*ro  in  1634. 
Among  the  namerons  interesting  monuments  they  contain  are  those  of 
GU  de  SonteMon  and  his  son ,  the  architects  of  the  cathedral  \  of  the  Jn- 
/cmU  JP^ro,  son  of  Henry  II.,  whose  careless  nnrse  let  him  fall  from  a 
window  of  the  Alcazar  in  1366;  and  of  Maria  del  SdUo  (d.  1287),  a  beautiful 
Jewess,  who,  being  accused  of  adultery,  was  thrown  over  the  precipice  of 
the  Orajera  (p.  120),  but  called  upon  the  Virgin  and  alighted  unhurt. 

Several  of  the  other  chnrches  of  Segovia  are  also  interesting. 
San  MiUan  is  a  Romanesque  structure  of  the  12t]i  cent.,  with  barrel 
vaulting  and  three  parallel  semicircular  apses.  Along  the  outside 
of  the  N.  and  S.  walls  run  curious  open  cloisters  or  arcades  in  the 
late-Romanesque  style.  —  The  church  of  5an  Martm  (PI.  14;  0,  2), 
which  is  similar  in  plan ,  and  the  JgUsia  del  Corpus  Christie  which 
was  originally  a  synagogue  and  has  a  Moorish  ceiling,  are  hoth  in 
the  Galle  Real,  in  the  S.E.  part  of  the  town.  —  San  Juan  (Pi.  13 ; 
G,  2)  should  he  visited  for  its  interesting  monuments.  —  San  An- 
dri${PLi1\By2\  totheN.W.  of  the  cathedral^  Is  another  Roman- 
esque structure  of  the  12th  cent.,  but  it  has  heen  partly  modernized . 
—  The  Roi%»nesque  church  of  San  EsUban^  to  the  N.  of  the  town, 
opposite  the  Episcopal  Palace,  is  notable  for  the  beautiful  open  arcade 
or  cloister  running  round  its  N.,  W.,  and  S.  sides.  The  openings  in 
the  lofty  ♦Tower  (13th  cent.)  are  alternately  round-arched,  and  point- 
ed.   The  interior  is  uninteresting. 

The  former  convent  of  Santa  Oriis,  not  far  from  San  Est^ban, 
has  a  rich  Qothio  portal,  with  reliefs  of  the  Crucifixion  and  the 
Pietii.  Here  also  are  figures  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  the  founders 
of  the  convent,  whose  motto  ^tanio  monta'  (p.  171)  appears  both 
outside  and  inside  the  church. 

The  Museo  Provincial,  in  the  secularized  church  of  San  Facundo, 
is  insignificant. 

Among  the  most  notable  private  mansions  are  the  Casa  de  Se- 
'goviaj  in  the  Calle  de  los  Leones,  belonging  to  the  Marques  del  Arco  j 
the  Casa  de  los  Picos ,  belonging  to  the  Marques  de  Quintaner  and 
so  called  because  of  the  'facets'  into  which  its  stones  are  carved ;  and 
the  Fabrica  de  la  Moneda  (PI.  A,  B,  1),  to  the  N.E.,  on  the  bank  of 
the  Eresma,  which  was  founded  by  Alfonso  VII.,  restored  by  Henry  IV., 
^nd  used  as  the  royal  mint  of  Spain  down  to  1730. 

The  *Alc&zar  (PI.  A,  1, 2),  built  by  Alfonso  VI.,  the  sovereign 
of  the  Old,  partly  in  imitation  of  the  Moorish  castle  at  Toledo,  is  an 
excellent  example  of  an  old  Gastilian  castle.  In  its  present  form 
it  dates  substantially  from  1352-58,  though  the  interior  has  been 
largely  restored  since  a  fire  in  1862.  The  most  conspicuous  features 
Are  the  two  huge  towers :  the  Torre  delHomenaje^  with  its  numerous 
bartizans  (cubos),  and  the  Torre  de  Juan  Segundo,  The  walls  are  di- 
apered in  plaster.  Isabella  the  Gathollc  was  here  proclaimed  Queen 
of  Castile  in  1474.  The  Alcazar  successfully  resisted  the  Comuneros 


120   Roxae9.  SEGOVIA. 

in  1520;  and  Charles  V.  and  Philip  II.  showed  their  satisfaction  by 
fitting  oat  the  Sola  del  TronOj  the  8ala  del  Recibimento ,  and  other 
rooms  -with  great  magnificence.  In  the  so-called  PUza  del  Corddn 
Alfonso  the  Learned  was  on  the  point  of  discovering  that  it  was  the 
earth  that  moved  round  the  sun  and  not  vice  versa,  when  a  sudden 
flash  of  lightning  deterred  him  from  such  heretical  speculations.  In 
memory  of  this  warning  he  had  the  rope  (cord6n)  of  St.  Francis 
carved  round  the  frieze.  It  was  in  the  Alcazar  that  Gil  Bias  was 
confined  on  the  eve  of  his  marriage  (xx.  3,4). 

Wales.  Good  views  of  the  Alcazar  are  obtained  from  the  Eresma, 
to  which  we  descend  through  the  Puefta  Coiiellana,  and  from  the 
(1/2M.)  Santuario  de  FuencUla  (PI.  A,  1 ;  fons  stillarui)  or  church  of 
the  Virgen  de  Fuencisla,  built  in  honour  of  the  miraculous  rescue 
of  Maria  del  Salto  (p.  119).  Above  the  church  towers  the  Pena  Ora- 
jera  ('crows'  cliff),  from  which  criminals  used  to  be  precipitated.  — 
A  little  farther  up  the  river,  on  a  height  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
£resma,  lies  the  Romanesque  church  of  *Vera  Cruz  (Pl.  A,  1),  a 
twelve-sided  structure  erected  by  the  Templars  in  1208  in  imitation 
of  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  at  Jerusalem.  It4ias  a  square 
tower  and  three  parallel  semicircular  apses,  while  the  nave  forms  a 
kind  of  vaulted  ambulatory  round  a  small,  two-storied  central  cham- 
ber. —  Still  farther  up  ,  nearly  opposite  the  Fabrica  de  la  Moneda 
(p.  119),  is  the  suppressed  Monasterio  del  Parral  (PI.  B,  1 ;  'vine 
arbour') ,  with  a  church  built  by  Juan  Gallego  in  1494  (numerous 
old  monuments)  and  some  slight  remains  of  the  Gothic  cloisters. 
The  well-kept  gardens  of  this  famous  Hieronymite  convent  gave 
rise  to  the  saying :  'Lew  Hyertas  del  Parral,  Paraiso  terrenaV  ('the 
gardens  of  Parral,  an  earthly  Paradise').  —  A  pretty  Alameda  leads 
from  the  Parral  up  the  Eresma  to  the  church  of  Santa  Ana  (PI.  C,  1). 
Other  favourite  promenades  are  the  8al6n  de  hahel  Segunda  (PI.  B, 
C,  2),  on  the  S.  side  of  the  town,  between  the  Puerta  del  Sol  and  the 
Paeria  de  la  Lunay  and  the  PaaSo  Nuevo,  on  the  Clamores.  —  Th^ 
Calvario  commands  a  fine  survey  of  the  old  walls  and  the  S.  part  of 
the  city. 

The  road  (omnibus,  see  p.  117)  from  Segovia  to  (7  M.)  San  llde- 
fonso  (and  La  Oranja")  leads  through  a  level  plain  past  the  (5  M.) 
royal  domain  of  Quita  Pesares  ('sans  souci').  Fine  views  are  enjoyed 
of  the  Sierra. 

San  IldefonBO  and  La  Oranja.  —  Hotels.  *Hot£l  Eoropa  ;  Hot. 
DR  Pabis  ^  Fonda  de  Embajadobes.  In  the  height  of  summer  the  charges 
9,re  high,  and  rooms  should  be  ordered  in  advance.  —  Lodgings  may  be 
obtained  in  the  village. 

La  Granja  repays  a  visit  by  its  picturesque  situation  and  by  its  foun- 
tains, which  ftre  probably  the  finest  in  Europe.  These  play  Ccorren') 
only  on  high  festivals  (Jan.  23rd,  Hay  SOth.  July  24th,  Aug.  26th,  and 
Sept.  11th  and  24th)  and  never  all  at  once.  The  climate,  which  is  Alpine 
in  character,  is  very  refreshing  in  summer. 


>r<j  .'^.^•-Jid  -4-.-  ■■  - 


l"^"h'-7-. 


LA  GRAMJA.  9.  Routt.   121 

San  lldeftmto  (3905  ft.),  a  village  lying  amid  t]ie  Guadarrama 
Mts.,  at  the  foot  of  the  huge  Penalara  (p.  122),  was  founded  by  King 
Henry  lY.,  who  in  1450  built  here  a  shooting- lodge  and  an  Ermita 
de  San  lldefon8o(F\,  B,  3),  afterwards  (1477)  presented  by  the  'Cath- 
olie  Kings'  to  the  monastery  of  Parral  (p.  120).  The  village  of  8an 
lldefonso  and  a  'granja'  (grange,  farm)  of  the  Hieronymite  monks 
soon  sprang  up  near  the  hermitage.  After  the  destruction  of  Valsain 
by  lire  (see  p.  122)  PhiUp  V.  purchased  La  Granja  (1719)  and 
began  to  constmet  here  a  ch&teau  and  gardens  in  the  French  style. 
As  the  Eseorial  reflects  the  character  of  Philip  II.,  so  La  Granja 
reflects  that  of  Philip  V.,  who  died  in  1746  soon  after  flnishing 
the  gardens.  The  first  of  the  Bourbons  could  never  forget  'la  belle 
France*,  and  the  creation  of  a  Versailles  in  this  mountain-solitude 
appealed  at  once  to  his  melancholy  disposition  and  his  love  for  his 
native  land.  His  successors  also  found  La  Granja  to  their  taste. 
Charles  III.  established  here  a  weaving  factory  (la  Calandria)  and 
his  famous  glass-works  (Fdbriea  de  Critialea)^  the  first  of  which  is 
extinct,  while  the  other  is  now  in  private  hands.  —  La  Granja  has 
been  the  scene  of  not  a  few  political  events  of  some  importance.  In 
1724  Philip  y.  here  resigned  the  crown,  which  he  resumed  after  the 
death  of  his  son.  Here ,  in  1783 ,  Charles  III.  received  the  Comte 
d'Artois,  afterwards  Charles  X.,  on  his  way  to  the  siege  of  Gibraltar. 
In  1796  Godoy  (p.  124)  here  signed  the  treaty  which  handed  Spain 
over  to  France.  In  1832  Ferdinand  YII.  summoned  Don  Carlos  to 
La  Granja  as  the  acknowledged  heir  to  the  throne.  On  hearing 
this  news,  however,  the  Princess  Louisa  Charlotte,  sister  of  Queen 
Christina,  hurried  from  Puerto  de  Santa  Maria  to.La  Granja,  and 
succeeded  in  persuading  the  feeble  king  to  name  his  infant  daughter 
Isabella  as  his  successor.  The  result  of  this  change  of  mind  was  the 
civil  wars  which  afterwards  devastated  Spain.  Here,  in  1836,  the 
Queen  Regent  Christina  was  compelled  by  a  military  'prouuucia- 
raento'  to  accept  the  Constitution  of  Cadiz. 

The  Palaeio  BeU  (PI.  C,  3),  built  in  1721-23  by  Theodore  Ar- 
temans  from  designs  by  the  Italians  Juvara  and  Sacchettij  consists  of 
a  main  building,  adjoined  by  the  collegiate  church,  and  of  two 
wings.  The  principal  facade  looks  towards  the  garden.  The  royal 
apartments  in  the  main  building  still  retain  their  18th  cent,  magni- 
ficence (attendant  1-2  p.). 

The  Colegiata  (PI.  C,  3), .  built  in  1724  et  seq. ,  is  elaborately 
adorned  with  frescoes  by  Bayeu  and  Ataelia.  The  baroque  high-altar 
was  designed  by  Arlemans  and  embellished  with  marble  sculptures 
by  SoUmena  of  Naples.  The  PanUon,  or  chapel  to  the  W.  of  the 
high-altar  (entr.  through  the  sacristy),  contains  the  tombs  of  Philip  V. 
and  his  wife  Isabella  Famese,  by  Pitw  and  Dumcmdri,  In  the  Sala 
Capitular  are  a  'custodia'  of  lapis  lazuli,  the  staflf  (hdcido)  of  St.  Eli- 
zabeth, and  other  relics. 


122  Route  9.  LA  GRANJA. 

The  Oardens  were  laid  ont  by  Boutelel  and  flalshed  in  1743  at 
immense  cost,  owing  to  the  rocks  that  had  to  l)e  remoyed  and  the 
earth  that  had  to  be  supplied.  They  are  divided  into  the  Jardinea 
Alios  and  Jar  dines  Bajos;  adjoining  the  palace  is  the  Parterre  j  with 
the  Cascada  Nueva  (PI.  0,  4).  The  gardens  are  plentifully  irrigated 
with  the  water  of  the  artificial  lake  known  as  El  Mar  (PI.  C,  6), 
which  lies  4095  ft.  above  the  sea  and  furnishes  pressure  enough  for 
the  fountains  to  play  without  the  aid  of  pumping  engines. 

In  spite  of  much  that  is  antiquated  and  baroque  in  their  designs 
and  ornamentation,  the  ♦♦Fountains  afford  a  very  imposing 
spectacle,  and  are  vastly  superior  to  those  of  Versailles.  They  were 
mainly  made  by  Elizabeth  Farnese,  the  wife  of  Philip  V.,  in  1727, 
while  the  king  himself  was  absent  on  a  long  journey.  On  his  return 
he  is  said  to  have  remarked,  as  he  gazed  at  the  'fianos  de  Diana' : 
'it  has  cost  me  three  millions  and  has  amused  me  three  minutes'.  — 
In  addition  to  the  waterfall  named  the  Cascada  del  Cenador(?h  C,  4), 
there  are  26  fountains  proper,  in  devising  which  the  fancy  of  Du- 
mandri,  Procaccmi,  and  Sani  has  run  riot.  The  most  important  are 
the  JSoluSj  the  Carrera  de  CabaUos  or  Triumph  of  Neptune  (PI.  0, 4), 
and  the  Apollo  and  the  Python,  In  the  group  of  PerseuSj  Andromeda^ 
and  the  Dragon  (PI.  0,  6)  the  last  sends  up  a  jet  to  a  height  of  110  ft. 
The  Fuente  del  CanastiUo  (PI.  B,  5)  represents  a  'basket'  of  fruit  and 
flowers,  with  40  jets,  one  of  which  is  66  ft.  high.  The  jet  of  the 
Fama  (PI.  B,  3)  reaches  a  height  of  126  ft.  and  is  visible  at  Segovia. 
The  Banos  de  Diana  form  a  complicated  maze  of  statues,  groups,  and 
sprays  of  water.  —  On  the  E.  side  of  the  gardens  is  a  Laherinto  or 
Maze  (PI.  D,  4,  5).  A  special  'papeleta'  is  required  for  admission  to 
the  Jardines  Reservados  and  El  Potosf,  or  vegetable  garden. 

EzcuBsxoifs.  In  the  valley  of  the  Losoya^  on  the  S.  side  of  the  Gua- 
darrama  Mts.,  6  M«  from  La  Granja,  lies  the  suppressed  Carthusian  con- 
vent of  El  Taular ,  part  of  which  has  been  converted  into  glass-works. 
It  is  reached  via  the  Puerto  de  Reventon ,  a  mountain-pass  to  the  right 
(S.E.)  of  the  towering  Penalara,  which  may  be  asoended  either  from  this 
point  or  (better")  from  the  Lozoya  valley  (see  below).  The  Monastery 
Church,  built  in  1433  40  by  'Abderrahm&n,  a  Moor  of  Segovia,  stUl  contains 
some  interesting  altars  and  tombs,  as  well  as  paintings  by  Palomino,  etc. 
From  El  Paular  we  may  visit  the  works  of  the  Madrid  Water  Conduit 
(p.  93)  and  the  beautiful  Valley  of  the  lozoya,  which,  with  its  sombre 
granite  hills,  its  thick  and  gloomy  forests  of  coniferous  trees,  its  poplars, 
willows,  alders,  and  even  birches,  and  its  red-tiled  villages,  seems  to  belong 
rather  to  the  N»  than  to  the  8.  of  Europe.  —  The  Pico  de  PeSalara 
(8690  ft.)  rises  over  the  Pinar  de  Segovia ,  to  the  8.  W.  of  Paular.  We 
first  ascend  through  the  rocky  and  well-wooded  gorge  of  the  Lozoya,  and 
then  proceed  across  moor-like  Alpine  pastures  and  through  bashes  of 
Saroihamn*  purgane,  a  kind  of  broom.  Farther  on  we  ascend  to  the  right 
towards  the  cone,  at  the  foot  of  which  lies  the  Loffvna  de  P^alara^  the 
source  of  the  Lozoya.  The  last  part  of  the  climb  is  over  a  fatiguing  slope 
of  debris.  The  summit  commands  an  unimpeded  view  of  Old  and  New 
Castile.    To  the  W.  rises  the  Cabeta  de  Hierro  Chead  of  iron'). 

Beyond  La  Granja  the  road  goes  on  to  (2  M.)  Valscdn  ( ValUs 
sa'pinorum)^  an  old  and  entirely  neglected  hunting-ch&teau,  which 
was  built  by  Philip  II.  and  burned  under  Charles  II.  (see  p.  121). 


ABANJU£Z.  9.  Route,    123 

It  forms  the  centre  of  the  Pinar  de  VaUainy  an  extensive  royal  forest 
At  the  Venta  de  los  MoiquUoa  the  ascent  becomes  steeper;  the  road, 
often  impassable  in  winter  on  account  of  the  snow-drifts,  wiuds  up 
the  Monte  de  la  Maliciosay  through  fine  pine*woods,  to  the  Puerto 
de  Navaeerrada  (6040  ft.),  marked  by  a  boundary-column.  A  little 
to  the  left  is  the  village  of  the  same  name.  Hence  the  road  descends 
the  S.  side  of  the  Guadarrama  Mts.  to  (7^2  M.)  Ckiadarrama  (p.  52) 
and  (6  M.)  Efcorial  (p.  108). 


e.  Aranjate. 

mh  M.  EAU.WAT  in  1-2  hn.  (6  traina  daily;  fares  &  p.  65,  i  p.  iO, 
3  p.  70  c).  Retarn-tiekets,  availabU  for  two  days,  are  issued  in  summer 
(fares  8,  6,  i  p.).    Departure  from  the  E$taei&n  del  Medtodta  (p.  68). 

From  Madrid  to  (30Vs  ^0  Aranjuit,  see  pp.  275,  276. 

Araigute.  «-  The  Sailway  SUtion  (PI.  B,  3)  is  about  860  yds.  to 
the  S.W.  of  the  palace  and  about  >/s  H .  from  the  hotels.  Omnibutu  and 
other  vehicles  meet  the  trains. 

Hotels.  *HoT.  DK  Pa8t<$b  (PI.  a;  D,  2),  unpretending,  pens.  6-10 p.,  omn. 
50  c.i  Hot.  i>x  EKBAJAndaKS  (PI.  b;  D,  9),  similar  charges. 


damage  and  pair  2Vtp.  per  drjive,  i  p.  perhr..  eaeE  addit.  hr.  S'/tp. 
Quides,  for  i-0  hrs.,  4-5  p.   —  A  gratuity  of  1-2  p.  is  given  to  the 
Conterje  at  the  Palace  and  at  the  Casa  del  Labraddr  (where  very  little 


time  is  allowed  to  view  the  objects  of  interest).  —  A  J)trmti  (PaptUta) 
allowing  six  persons  to  visit  the  palace  and  the  royal  gardens  (except  in 
wet  weather)  may  be  obtained  at  the  hotels  or  from  the  ^Administrador 
del  Real  Patrimonio\  in  the  Cata  del  Infante  (PI.  8:  D,  8),  Plaza  de  la 
Libertad  (9.90-2). 

IKstzibntion  of  Tinae.  Aranju^z  may  be  Mone*  in  3-4  hrs.,  but  the 
beautiful  gardens,  especially  in  spring,  tempt  to  a  longer  sojourn.  The  best 
plan  is  to  begin  by  walking  through  the  Calle  de  la  Reina  to  the  (3asa 
del  Labraddr  (}/t  hr.);  there  spend  1/4  kr.  in  seeing  the  small  ch&teau  i  walk 
back  to  the  suspension-bridge  (>/4  b^.)*,  and  visit  the  Parterre,  the  Jardin 
de  la  Isia,  and  the  Palace  (IVs  kr.). 

Aranju£%  (1515  ft)  is  a  royal  chateau  (sitio  redl)  in  the  plain  of 
the  Tagia  and  Jarama,  which  unite  a  little  to  the  W.  and  water  the 
great  royal  demesne  (real  pcUrimorUo ;  47,600  acres  in  extent).  To  the 
S.E.  of  the  chitean  lies  the  uninteresting  little  town  (8200  inhab.), 
which  is  regularly  built  and  laid  out,  at  the  suggestion  of  the  Marques 
Giimaldi,  Spanish  ambassador  at  The  Hague,  in  the  Dutch  style. 

Aranjudz  owes  its  origin  to  a  rapid  in  the  Tagus,  forming  a  kind  of 
natural  weir  (presa)  and  afterwards  artificially  improved,  which  rendered 
the  irrigation  of  the  adjoining  plain  a  comparatively  easy  matter.  In 
the  middle  ages  it  belonged  to  the  Order  of  Santiago  and  contained  a 
conventual  palace,  built  in  1337  by  the  Grand  Matter  Suarez  de  Figutrda^ 
which  was  known  as  Aranzwl  or  Aransueje.  Afterwards,  under  the  name 
of  /«7a,  it  was  a  favourite  summer-residence  of  Isabella  the  Catholic. 
Charles  V.  built  a  shooting-box  here,  which  Philip  II.  enlarged  with  the 
aid  of  Juan  Bautista  de  Toledo  and  Juan  de  Herrera.  The  same  king 
created  the  place  a  royal  ^residence"  and  beautified  its  grounds  by  the 
introduction  of  the  English  elm  (Ulmus  nigra),  hitherto  unlmown  in  Spain. 
The  ch&teau  was  almost  wholly  destroyed  by  fire  in  1660  and  1(166,  but 
Philip  V.  caused  it  to  be  rebuilt  by  Pedro  Caro  in  the  Louis  Quatoree 
style  (I79f7).  It  was  restored  by  Ferdinand  VI.  after  a  third  fire  in  1748, 
and  the  two  large  wings  were  added  by  Charles  III.  in  1776-78.  —  At 


124   Route  9.  ARANJU^Z. 

Aranjn^z,  on  Mar.  19th,  1808,  Godoy,  the  'Principe  de  la  Paz',  the  all- 
powerful  minister  of  Charles  IV.,  and  the  king  himself  were  compelled 
to  resign  by  a  rising  under  the  leadership  of  Count  Montijo.  —  Since  then 
Aranjn^z  has  been  left  more  and  more  to  itself,  and  neither  palaces  nor 
gardens  are  kej[)t  up  with  such  care  as  might  be  looked  for.  ^Die  schonen 
Tage  in  Aranju^z  sind  nun  zu  Ende\  Perhaps,  however,  there  is  no 
place  in  the  S.  of  Europe  so  rich  in  elms,  plane-trees,  and  nightingales. 
In  mid-summer  the  heat,  attaining  a  maximum  of  115*  Fahr.,  is  often  in- 
tolerable. The  climate  is  then  considered  very  unhealthy,  and  the  resi- 
dents suflfer  from  malarial  fever. 

The  central  point  of  Aranjutfz  is  the  Plaza  db  la  Libebtad 
(PI.  D,  3),  with  the  church  oi  San  Antonio  (PI.  2),  the  Fuente  de 
Diaria  or  de  las  Cadenaa,  and  the  small  Jardin  de  Isabel  Segunda. 
To  the  N.  this  plaza  is  adjoined  by  the  parterre-garden  of  the  palace, 
to  the  W.  of  which  rises  the  palace  itself,  .flanked  by  a  colonnade 
(correddr)  erected  by  Godoy  (see  aboye). 

The  Palacio  Beal  (PI.  0,  2,  3)  deserves  a  visit.  The  handsome 
Staircase  is  adorned  with  busts  of  Philip  V.  and  Louis  XIV,  The 
various  rooms-  contain  pictures  by  Conrado  Bayeu  (History  of  the 
Prodigal  Son,  etc.),  Raphael  Mengs,  Bosco,  Amiconij  and  Hierony^ 
mus  Bosch,  In  the  Oratory  are  an  ivory  crucifix,  an  Annunciation 
ascribed  to  Titian  (?),  and  a  modern  Roman  mosaic  presented  by 
Pius  IX.  to  Isabella  II.  The  *Oahinet€  de  China,  the  corner-room 
above  the  weir  on  the  Tagus,  is  a  creation  of-Charles  III.  and  Giu- 
seppe Qricci  (^1763).  Its  walls  are  covered  with  porcelain-tiles  from 
the  factory  of  Buen  Retiro  (p.  85),  showing  scenes  in  the  Japanese 
style.  The  large  mirrors,  with  their  frames  of  fruit  and  flowers, 
were  made  at  La  Granja  (p.  121).  The  chandelier,  all  in  one  piece, 
represents  monkeys  and  parrots  quarrelling  over  fruit.  The  ceiling  of 
the  Smoking  Room  is  an  accurate  copy  of  that  of  the  Sala  de  las  Dos 
Hermanas  in  the  Alhambra  (p.  361).  The  Antecdmara  contains  'El 
Ultimo  Suspire  del  Moro'  (p.  336),  an  attractive  painting  by  Espaltir. 
In  the  Dining  Room  are  scenes  from  the  life  of  Joseph.  —  The 
windows  afford  fine  views  of  the  Isla  garden  and  the  Tagus  weir. 

The  Parterre  Oarden  (PI.  C,  D,  2,  3),  like  the  Jardin  de  las 
Estdtuas  to  the  S.  of  the  palace,  is  laid  out  in  the  French  style, 
with  beds  of  roses,  fantasies  in  box,  modern  statues  and  busts  of 
Roman  emperors  and  empresses,  and  some  fine  marble  vases  and 
fountains.  At  its  W.  end  is  the  Fuente  de  Hercules,  with  its  two 
pillars,  one  inscribed  'plus'  and  the  other  *ultra',  and  reliefs  of  the 
labours  of  Hercules. 

The  path  to  the  left  of  .the  Tagus  weir  leads  across  the  Ria,  an 
overflow  channel  of  the  river,  to  the  *  Jardin  de  la  Isla  (PI.  B,  C, 
1,  2),  the  chief  garden  of  Aranjuez,  laid  out  by  Philip  II.'  and  the 
scene  of  Schiller's  *Don  Carlos'.  The  finest  feature  is  the  Saldn  de 
los  Reyes  Catdlicos,  a  superb  avenue  of  spreading  plane-trees  skirting 
the  murmuring  river.  Bending  to  the  left  at  the  end  of  this  avenue, 
we  proceed  through  the  CaUe  de  Alhambra  to  the  Fountain  of 
Bacchus.     Another  turn  to  the  left  brings  us  to  the  Fountain  of 


ARANJUlfiZ.  9.R0UU,    125 

Neptune.  Lastly,  we  follow  the  Calle  dt  Boabdil  to  the  Jardin  de  la 
IsUta  (PI.  B,  2),  at  the  W.  end  of  the  garden,  at  the  point  where  the 
aboye-mentioned  canal  rejoins  the  T«giis.  To  the  S.W.  rises  the 
railway-hridge. 

We  may  now  return  to  the  palace  along  the  Ria,  near  which,  in  the 
garden  to  the  left,  are  the  Water  Ca$ile,  theFuente  de  laDoncellay  etc. 
In  front  of  the  palace  the  Sal6n  de  los  Reyes  Gat61icoB  is  joined  by  Los 
Burladdrea  Qihe  tricksters'),  a  walk  with  ^surprize'  water-works.  Near 
the  palace  are  the  Cateada  de  la  Ria  and  seTcral  marble  fountains. 

To  the  N.E.  of  the  Parterre  Garden  the  Tagns  is  spanned  by  the 
Puente  Colgaate  (PI.  D,  2),  a  suspension-bridge  adorned  with  four 
statues  and  four  yases.  The  road  beyond  it  leads  straight  to  Madrid. 
Fine  view  from  the  right  bank  of  the  weir  and  the  palace. 

We  now  proceed  to  the  E.,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Tagus, 
through  the  *  CaUe  de  la  Reina  (PL  D,  E,  F,  2),  a  magnificent 
avenue  of  planes  and  elms,  which  skirts  the  Jardin  del  Principe  and 
is  prolonged  for  3  M.  up  the  valley  of  the  Tagus.  (A  view  of  it  is 
given  by  Velazquez  in  his  painting  at  the  Prado,  No.  1110,  p.  76.") 
To  the  left  we  have  fine  views  of  the  Jardin  del  Principe,  with  its 
gigantic  plane-trees ;  to  the  right  are  the  sunburnt  heights  of  the 
Polvorin,  so  called  from  a  powder-mill  that  once  stood  here.  In 
about  V2  ^^-  ^®  reach  (left)  the  JEntrada  dt  la  Casa  del  Labraddr^ 
a  handsome  gate  with  two  columns. 

The  Cata  del  Labradbr  (open  10-6 ;  conserje  in  the  right  wing), 
which  is  as  much  of  a  'labourer's  cottage'  as  the  Trianon  at  Ver- 
sailles, was  built  by  Charles  IV.  and  bears  the  inscription :  4iei- 
nando  Carlos  IV.  afio  de  1803'.  It  consists  of  «  central  structure 
and  two  wings.  In  front  of  the  main  facade  is  a  Fuente  (fountain), 
with  the  three  figures  of  8ed,  Envidiaj '  and  Hambre  (Thirst,  Envy, 
and  Hunger). 

The  Interior  is  elaborately  decorated  and  contains  all  manner  of  objeit 
de  luxe.  The  ceiling-paintings  are  by  Zacariat  Velazquez^  Lopez^  Maella^ 
and  other  artists.  A  handsome  staircase  ascends  to  the  18  rooms  of  the 
first  floor.  The  ceiling  of  Room  I  represents  ApoUo  and  the  Muses. 
Rook  II  (to  the  left)  contains  some  beautiful  vases  \  Boom  UI  has  fine 
silk  hangings  j  in  Boom  IV  are  birds,  carved  in  wood.  —  The  Scdlptukk 
Gallsbt  (Y)  contains  ^  busts  of  Ghreek  philosophers  from  Ifaples ;  mosaics 
from  tha  Boman  theatre  at  M^rida  (p.  456) ;  a  ceiling-painting  representing 
Trade,  Agriculture,  etc.;  and  a  large  musical  box  (in  the  middle).  The 
BiLLiABD  Boom  (VI),  the  ceiling  of  which  depicts  the  Four  Elements, 
contains  a  billiard-table,  finely  inlaid  oues^  silken  hangings,  a  magnificent 
clock,  and  a  chandelier.  —  We  tow  return  and  pass  to  the  right  into  the 
Sala  ds  Mabia  Luisa  (VII),  with  several  clocks  and  vases  and  a  crystal 
chandelier.  —  The  Ball  Booh  {Salon  de  Bdile;  VIII)  contains  a  large 
musical  box,  while  musical  boxes  are  also  concealed  in  the  chandeliers 
and  other  objects.  The  walls  are  embellished  with  views  of  the  Escorial. 
The  malachite  table  and  chair  were  presented  by  Prince  Demidoff.  — 
In  Boom  IX  are  views  of  Spanish  chateaux.  —  In  Boom  X  the  cornice 
and  the  frames  of  the  door  and  windows  are  of  marble.  —  Room  XI  has 
a  fine  clock  and  porcelain  vases.  —  Boom  XII  has  views  of  Roman  churches. 
Boom  XIII  has  views  of  the  fountains  of  La  Granja,  a  clock  in  the  fo' 
of  a  lyre,  and  several  mirrors.  —  The  *Gabimets  de  Platina  (XIV) 


126   Route  9.  TOLEDO.  BoUls. 

pftuelled  walls  inlaid  with  gold  and  platinum,  tIows  of  the  Seasons,  and 
large  chandeliers.  —  On  a  table  in  Room  XV  (Privy  Closet)  stands  am 
ivory  bird,  carved  vfith  astounding  delicacy.  The  floor  is  in  marble 
mosaic.  —  Boon  XVI  has  a  musical  box  and  views  of  La  Granja.  —  Wo 
now  refcum  to  the  ball-room  and  proceed  to  the  right  to  Boom  XVIII, 
with  views  of  Araiguez.  —  We  then  descend  to  the  groundfloor.  At  tlie 
top  of  the  Back  Staiboase  Zac.  Velazquee  has  painted  a  balcony,  over 
which  lean  his  wife  and  children. 

We  return  to  the  town  by  the  Jardin  del  Principe  (Vh  F,  E,  1, 2), 
which  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  rapid-flowing  Tagus  and  extends 
from  the  Oasa  del  Labrador  to  the  suspension-bridge,  a  distance  of 
about  11/2  M.  It  contains  little  of  interest  except  its  large  trees 
and  a  few  fountains  with  statuary  (^Fuente  de  ApolOy  etc.).  Its  name 
is  due  to  the  fact  that  Charles  lY.  laid  it  out  when  Prince  of  Astu- 
rias.  To  the  N.E.  lies  the  Fiorera  (PL  D,  1)  or  Jardin  Ingles,  a 
flower-garden  with  greenhouses,  laid  out  by  Richard  WaW,  a  native 
of  Ireland. 

Those  who  have  time  at  their  disposal  may  take  a  pleasant  walk  to 
the  BDraddr  de  Oristina  (1840  ft.),  about  1  M.  from  the  market-place.  From 
the  Plaza  de  la  Libertad  we  go  to  the  £.  to  the  Plaza  de  Abastos  (PI.  D, 
E,  3),  whence  we  proceed  to  the  S,,  past  the  Convento  de  San  Patcual  (PI. 
£,  4),  founded  in  1765,  the  church  of  which  contains  a  good  altar-piece 
(St.  Paschal)  by  Baphael  Mengs.  To  the  right  is  the  Flaza  de  Toroe  (PI. 
D,  4),  We  finally  ascend  to  the  right  by  the  Camino  de  las  Rocas.  To 
the  N.  the  extensive  view  embraces  the  plain  of  the  Tagus  and  Aranjuez*, 
to  the  S.B.  are  the  Mar  de  OnUgolnu  the  lake  whence  Aranjuez  procures 
its  supply  of  drinking-water,  and  the  bleak  and  barren  hills  which  skirt 
the  oasis  of  the  river;  farther  off  in  the  same  direction  lies  Ocana.  — 
Visitors  interested  in  borses  should  visit  the  Oaballerizae  ReeOes  (Pi.  1 ;  C, 
D,  8)  and  one  or  other  of  the  Royal  Stttde  (Gasa  de  Honta,  Yeguadas), 
which  lie  in  the  domains  of  SotomayoTy  to  the  E.  of  the  village,  and 
LegamareJOy  to  the  W.  of  it  (orders  of  admission  obtained  from  the  Ad- 
ministrador,  p.  123).  Cream-coloured  Andalusian  horses,  mules,  etc.,  are 
bred  here,  but  the  rearing  of  camels  and  llamas  has  been  given  up.  —  The 
ViUae  to  the  S.E.  of  the  rail,  station  contain  little  of  moment.  —  The 
Yiage  Bodegae  or  wine-cellars,  built  by  Charles  III.  in  I'TSS,  are  interesting-, 
but  the  wine  of  Aranjuez  is  very  second-rate. 

d.  Toledo. 

Approaches.  To  visit  Toledo  from  Madrid  travellers  may  take  the 
Ciudad  Real  Railway  (B.  4^  as  far  as  Algodor^  whence  a  branch-line  runs 
to  Toledo  (in  all  47V2  M.  j  two  trains  daily  in  3  hrs.-,  fares  8  p.  80,  6  p.  65, 
4  p.  40  c).  In  summer  return-tickets,  available  for  two  days,  are  issued. 
There  is  a  through-carriage  for  first-class  passengers.  —  The  excursion 
may  be  combined  with  that  to  Aranjuez  by  following  the  Seville  Railway 
(R.  29)  to  CastiUeJOy  whence  a  branch-line  runs  to  Algodor  (see  above  ^ 
62  M.  in  all ;  two  trains  daily  in  3-4  hrs.  \  fares  10  p.  40, 8  p.  10, 4  p.  95  c). 
Carriages  are  changed  at  Castillejo.  The  connections  on  this  route  are 
rather  unfavourable,  especially  for  travellers  coming  from  the  S.  —  Trav- 
ellers from  Portugal,  by  the  line  from  Valencia  de  AlcSntara  to  Madrid 
(R.  47),  leave  the  railway  at  VUlamiel  (p.  445),  where,  coaches  meet  the 
trains  to  convey  passengers  to  (9  M.)  Toledo  (fare  2  p.). 

Hallway  Station  (PI.  F,  3),  to  the  N.E.  of  the  city,  beyond  the  Tagus. 
Hotel  Omnibuses  (fare,  incl.  luggage,  1-1 1/2  p.;  bargain  desirable)  and  the 
Omnibus  Oenerdles  meet  the  trains.  —  The  Despach9  Central  (comp.  p.  zvi) 
is  in  the  Calle  del  Comercio,  adjoining  the  Zocodov^r  (PI.  E,  4). 

Hotels  (bargaining  necessary  j  comp.  p.  xx).    Hotel  Castilla  (PI.  a^ 


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Carriages.  TOLEDO.  9,  Rovte.    127 

E,  3).  la  the  sjuftU  PUza  San  Agustin,  immediately  to  the  'S.W,  of  the 
Zocoaovtfr,  flnt-class,  pens,  from  12V2,  B.  1  p.  —  Fonda  db  Lino  (PI.  b  \ 
D,  4),  Calle  de  la  Plata  ^  Fonda  IxpssiiL  (PI.  c^  £,  4),  Gaesta  del  Al<^4B*r, 
near  the  ZoeodoTfo,  well  fpoken  of  j  Fonda  dkl  Kohts  (PI.  dt  B,  4), 
opposite  the  last;  these  three  very  primitive,  pens,  from  6  p-  —  In  Holy 
week  (Semana  Shmia)  the  hotels  are  crowded  and  their  prices  raised. 

Oatts  (comp.  p.  zxii).  C<nfi  BvImo^  Cafi  Imperial^  both  in  the  Zocodov^r, 

OeBfeetioaen  (Go^/iter(a»).  Bobrin^s  p  Sueetoru  de  Civriemo  Labrador ^ 
Plasaela  de  Magdalena*,  Bijo  de  F$ret  Hemdndez.  Galle  de  las  Tendillas^ 
Jutm  Martin  Burridt  Gslle  de  la  Obra  Prima.  —  The  marchpane  Cmorapdn; 
of  Toledo  is  eelebrated.  It  is  made  up  in  all  sorts  of  forms,  snoh  as  the 
JamtmeUoe  -('little  hams'),  while  at  Christmas  it  is  told  in  ctgutnaldo*^  or 
prettily  decorated  boxes,  containing  figures  of  saints,  fish,  serpents,  horses, 
and  so  on.  Cvernos  are  a  kind  of  wheaten  rolls,  in  the  form  of  two  ears 
laid  one  iUK>ve  the  other*,  moUetat  and  panedlloe  are  circalar  rolls. 

Sookshop,  Menar  SermemM.  Calle  del  Comercio  57.  —  Photographs: 
ASguacU,  PlaauAa  de  Coatro  CallesTPi.  D,  4). 

Shops,  almost  all  in  the  Calle  del  Comercio.  AltateSy  In  the  Plastttfla 
de  Caatro  Cal]es(8ee  aboye),  sells  the  line  swords,  daggers,  and  damascened 
wares  made  at  the  Weapon  Factory  (p.  147).  Similar  wares  may  be  bought 
from  Marimo  Cfenrido  y  Mermano,  opposite  Santa  Maria  la  Blanoa  (p.  148). 

Post  ft  Telegraph  Offlee  (Oorreo  y  TeUffr^fo;  PI.  C,  6),  Calle  de  Al- 
fonso Doce. 

Theatres.  Teatro  de  Bojae  (PI.  D,  E,  4),  Plaza  Mayor)  Teatro  de  Fsro/io 
(sommer-theatre),  on  the  Miradero.  —  Ball  Bing  {JPlata  de  Twoe;  PI.  D.  1), 
in  theCarretera  de  Madrid,  to  the  X.  of  the  city^  'corridas'  in  September. 

Oarriacea  to  hold  3-4  pers.  may  be  hired  at  the  hotels  or  in  the  Despacho 
Central  for  10-12  p.  per  day.  They  may  be  used  for  drives  round  the 
city-walls  on  the  si.  and  along  the  Tagus  towards  the  E. ;  for  visits  to 
the  Hospital  San  Juan  Baatisia  (p.  143),  the  Paente  de  San  Martin  (p.  148), 
and  the  Vega  to  the  £.  and  W.  of  the  city  \  and,  finally,  for  a  drive  from 
the  Puente  San  Martin  along  the  heights  to  the  S.  of  the  city  (p.  161)  to 
the  Puente  de  Alcintara. 

Onidea,  useful  where  time  is  limited,  should  be  hired  at  the  hotels  only 
(fee  5-7Vs  p.  per  day).  In  the  streets  the  stranger  is  pestered  in  the  most 
intolerable  manner  by  beggars,  children,  and  would-be  guides  (comp.  d.  xziv). 

FeatlTala.  /a».  a2nd  is  the  feast  of  San  Udefonso,  one  of  the  tutelars 
af  the  city.  The  ceremonies  of  Holy  Week  are  observed  here  with  great 
elaboration.  On  April  90th  is  held  the  Romeria  at  the  Ermita  Kuestra 
Senora  de  la  Cabeaa  (p.  151),  and  on  May  let  that  of  the  iBrmita  de  la 
Virgen  del  Valle  (p.  IM).    Annual  Fair,  Avg,  16th-23nd. 

OUtf  Atfaraetiona  (li/s  day).  1st  Day;  morning,  •Cathedral  (p.  180) 
and  JJk4t€W  (p.  150);  afternoon,  facade  of  the  ffaepHai  de  SaiUa  Onu  (p.  141), 
ISiente  de  Aledtiiara  (p.  142),  Ptierta  del  Sol  (p.  142),  Pane  de  Madrid 
(p.  143) ,  and  Crielo  de  la  Lus  (n,  148).  —  2nd  Day :  morning,  Smnto  Twni 
(p.  146),  chureh  and  cloisters  of  8cm  Jwm  de  loe  Reyu  (pp.  145,  146),  Fuente 
de  San  MarHn  (p.  148),  Santa  Maria  la  Blanea  (p.  148),  and  Binagoya  del 
Traneito  (p.  149). 

Toledo  (1735  ft.),  the  Roman  ToUlum,  known  to  the  Jews  as 
ToUdotk  and  to  ike  *^  .  js.  as  ToUitola^  is  one  of  the  most  auoient 
and  famous  cities  '  c  <''*n  and  perhaps  of  Semitic  origin.  The 
etymology  of  its  naiL.  -  difHoalt  of  explanation;  it  may  be  from 
the  same  root  as  the  Hebrew  TkcU,  a  roi^ky  height,  and  the  Arabic 
Atalayay  a  watch-tower.  Livy  mentions  it  as  ^a  small  town,  but 
strong  on  account  of  its  situation'.  The  prstor  Marcus  Fulvius  No- 
biiior  captured  it  in  B.  G.  192.  The  city  lies  on  a  swelling  granite 
hill  in  the  form  of  a  horseshoe,  cut  out,  as  it  were,  by  the  deep  gorge 
of  the  Tagus  from  the  mass  of  mountains  to  the  S.   On  the  N.  it  is 


1 28   Route  9.  TOLEDO.  SHxiation, 

connected  with  the  great  plain  of  Castile  by  a  narrow  isthmus.  At 
all  other  points  the  sides  of  the  rocky  eminence  are  steep  and  Inac- 
cessible. At  its  base,  to  the  N.E.,  N.,  and  W.,  lies  the  fertile  Vega, 
or  plain  of  the  Tagus  (Tajo);  on  the  E.  and  S.  is  the  rocky  ravine 
which  gives  name  to  the  river  (tajo  =  cut,  incision)  and  through 
which  roars  the  flsh-abounding  stream  ('piscosus  Tagus'),  driving  a 
number  of  Moorish  water-mills.  To  the  S.  of  the  river,  in  a  vast 
amphitheatre,  rise  the  rocky  summits  of  the  Monies  de  Toledo, 
enlivened  here  and  there  with  a  few  olive-groves  and  ^cigarrdles* 
(small  summer- villas).  The  stamp  of  the  landscape  is  that  of  a 
sunburnt  Oriental  desert.  The  character  of  the  city  is  also  entirely 
Oriental.  Its  narrow  crooked  streets  spread  themselves  like  a  net 
over  the  uneven  rocky  plateau,  without  ever  expanding  into  open 
squares  or  affording  any  distant  vistas.  The  tall  houses  are  almost 
windowless  on  the  side  next  the  street,  and  reserve  all  their  cheer- 
fulness for  the  interior  pdtio  or  court  —  in  this  way  affording  as 
much  shelter  as  possible  from  the  icy  winds  of  winter  and  the  mer- 
ciless glare  of  the  summer  sun.  Each  house  has  its  own  drain  (buz6n) 
and  a  vestibule  (zagudn).  Huge  gates,  often  studded  with  great  iron 
bosses,  protect  the  entrance,  forming  a  striking  contrast  to  the  open 
doors  and  free  glimpses  of  the  patio  enjoyed  in  the  gay  city  of  Se- 
ville. Everything  here  has  the  character  'of  a  convent,  a  prison,  or 
a  fortress,  to  some  extent  also  of  a  seraglio'  (Oautier).  There  is 
scarcely  another  city  in  Europe  of  so  sombre  a  character.  But  from 
the  edges  of  the  plateau  the  gaze  wanders  far  over  the  valley  of  the 
Tagus  and  on  the  N.W.  is  bounded  only  by  the  remote  Sierra  de  Gredos. 
'The  situation  is,  indeed,  most  wild  and  striking.  The  Tagus,  wind- 
ing almost  all  round  the  city,  confines  it  much  in  the  fashion  In  which 
the  Wear  surrounds  Durham.  But  here  the  town  is  far  larger,  the  river 
banks  are  more  rocky,  precipitous,  and  wild  than  at  Durham ;  whilst  the 
space  enclosed  within  them  is  a  confused  heap  of  rough  and  uneven 
ground,  well  covered  with  houses,  churches,  and  monasteries,  and  inter- 
sected everywhere  by  narrow,  Eastern ,  and  Moorish-looking  streets  and 
alleys,  most  of  which  afford  no  passage-room  for  any  kind  of  carriage, 
and  but  scanty  room  for  foot-passengers.  It  is,  consequently,  without  ex- 
ception, the  most  difficult  city  to  find  one's  way  in  that  I  have  ever  seen, 
and  the  only  one  in  which  I  have  ever  found  myself  obliged  to  confess  a 
commissionaire  or  guide  of  some  sort  to  be  an  absolute  necessity,  if  one 
would  not  waste  half  one's  time  in  trying  to  find  the  way  from  one  place 
to  another".    (^Gothic  Architecture  in  Spain\  by  0.  E.  Street.) 

Toledo  is,  perhaps,  the  most  Arabian  city  in  Spain.  Even  after  its 
capture  by  Alfonso  VI,  in  1085  its  general  character  remained  un- 
changed, and  the  Moorish  type  of  architecture .  was  adhered  to  for 
four  centuries  more.  In  the  middle  of  the  16th  cent,  most  of  the 
cities  of  Spain  underwent  a  process  of  expansion  and  modernization ; 
Toledo,  however,  was  arrested  in  its  development  by  the  removal  of 
the  capital  to  Valladolid  and  afterwards  to  Madrid,  and  became 
practically  the  corpse  of  a  city.  It  is  an  ancient  Hispano-Moresoo 
Pompeii,  with  traces  of  the  Roman  and  the  Goth,  the  whole  dominat- 
ed by  the  imposing  Christian  monuments  of  the  Castilian  period.  It 


HiBtoty.  TOLEDO.  9.  Boutt,   129 

has  been  well  described  by  Wonnann  as  ^a  gigantic  open-air  mu- 
seum of  the  architectural  history  of  Early  Spain,  arranged  upon  a 
lofty  and  conspicuous  table  of  rock'. 

'Few  cities  that  I  have  ever  aeen  can  compete  in  artistic  interest  with 
it^  and  none  perhaps  come  up  to  it  in  the  singular  magnificence  of  its 
situation,  and  the  endless  novelty  aud  picturesqueness  of  its  every  corner. 
It  epitomises  the  whole  strange  history  of  Spain  in  a  manner  so  vivid, 
that  he  who  visits  its  old  nooks  and  comers  carefully  and  thoughtfully, 
can  work  out,  almost  unassisted,  the  strange  variety  which  that  history 
affords.  For  here  Romans,  Visigoths.  Saracens,  and  again  Christians 
have  in  turn  held  sway,  and  here  all  nave  left  tneir  mark  •,  here,  more- 
over, the  Christians,  gince  the  thirteenth  century,  have  shown  two  oppo- 
site examples,  —  one  of  toleration  of  Jews  and  Moors,  which  it  would  be 
hard  to  find  a  parallel  for  among  ourselves,  and  the  other  of  intolerance, 
such  as  has  no  paraOel  out  of  Spain  elsewhere  in  Europe"  (Strut). 

Toledo  was  the  ecclesiastical,  political,  and  intellectual  centre  of 
the  Spain  of  the  vanished  past.  It  was  the  seat  of  the  Primate  of 
All  Spain,  as,  indeed,  it  still  is.  From  the  year  400  onwards  it  was 
the  meeting-place  of  numerous  church-councils.  It  was  the  focus  of 
the  bold  though  unavailing  attempt  of  the  Comun^ros  (p.  63)  to 
assert  the  federal  principle  against  the  centralising  tendency  of  a 
universal  Spanish  monarchy.  And  yet  it  was  the  victory  of  the  cen- 
tral Madrid  that  brought  about  the  downfall  of  the  Spanish  throne. 
it  was  here  that  Lope  de  Vega  (p.  107)  lived  and  wrote  those  immortal 
dramas,  some  of  which,  such  as  'King  Wamba*,  'Over  the  Bridge', 
and  '  Juana'f  have  their  miae  en  tc^ne  at  Toledo.  Here  Moreto  (1618- 
69}  died,  and  here  Francisco  Rojas  was  bom  in  1607.  The  Zocodover 
has  been  immortalized  by  Cervantes  in  his  ^Novelas  EjemplaTe8\ 

The  only  vestiges  of  the  Roman  period  are  a  few  remains  of  the 
Amphitheatre  in  the  N.  suburb  of  Oovachuelas,  and  of  the  Circus 
Manimus  and  other  buildings  in  the  Vega  Baja,  to  the  N.W.  of  the 
city.  Toledo  became  the  capital  of  the  Visigoths  in  567  (comp.  p.  198) 
and  still  retains  the  city-walls  of  King  Wamba  (673).  All  else  in 
the  city,  except  the  Christian  churches ,  bears  a  distinctly  Moorish 
impress :  —  the  Visagra  Antigua  and  the  Puerta  del  Sol,  the  founda- 
tions of  the  Alcazar,  the  Jewish  synagogues,  and  a  large  number  of 
private  houses. 

The  cathedral  and  other  great  monuments  of  Christianity  are 

models  of  the  Gothic  style  and  many  of  them  are  perfect  museums 

of  art.   The  churches,  convents,  colleges,  and  hospitals  once  occupied 

more  than  half  of  the  city ;  but  many  of  them  are  now  in  ruins  or 

*   have  been  converted  to  secular  uses. 

The  Rodrigot^  Fon$eca»^  Tenorios^  Mendozcuy  Ximdnez,  Taverat^  Lor  en- 
tancu^  and  other  Akghbishops  of  Tolkdo,  Primates  of  Spain,  many  of 
whom,  were  called  tereiros  reifes^  formed  a  veritable  imperiwn  in  imperio. 
They  practically  held  in  their  hands  t  be  whole  civilisation  of  their  times: 
they  built  schools,  hospitals,  and  bridges-,  they  led  armies;  they  possessea 
immense  riches  and  fostered  art  and  science.  The  weigbtiest  events  in 
Spanish  history  are  associated  with  the  names  of  Archbishops  of  Tqledo. 
The  soul  uf  the  straggle  with  Granada  at  the  close  of  the  loth  cent,  was 
Mendoza.  Cardinal  Xim^nez  (Cisn^ros)  took  the  helm  of  Spain  after  the 
death  of  the  ^Catholic  Kings',  and  could  answer  the  grandees  who  enquired 

Ba£Dkkek's  Spain.  9 


130   Route  9.  TOLEDO.  a.  Cathedral. 

into  bis  authority  by  hftaghtily  pointing  from  his  balcony  in  Madrid  at 
his  army  mustered  in  the  square  below.  —  Tbe  chapter  of  Toledo  Cathe- 
dral once  consisted  of  168  ecclesiastics,  including  14  Dignidadet,  40  Ctmd- 
mgo»^  60  RadorUro*.  60  Capelkme*  de  Coro,  and  4  Candnigos  Ettravagcmtes. 
The  concordat  of  1861  reduced  the  number  to  62.  The  archiepiscopal 
establishment  now  numbers  eight  Dignidetdes:  the  Dedn^  Arcipreste^  Arce- 
didno^  CJumtrey  Mae$trescuila$^  Tetoriro,  Capelldn  Mapdr  de  Reyes^  and  Capel- 
Idn  Maydr  de  Mozdrabes.  Among  the  Minittrot  Subaltemos  are  the  Cantoi- 
lanittas  (choristers),  MuricoSy  Silenciiros  (see  below),  Celadcres^  Lectores^ 
NiViot  de  Coro  (choir-boys),  and  Sacrittdnee. 

Toledo  is  said  to  have  at  one  time  contained  200,000  inbab.5  it 
has  now  17,600.  It  lies  off  the  route  of  the  great  railways,  and  is 
of  importance  only  as  the  capital  of  a  province  and  the  seat  of  a  few 
officials  and  institutes.  —  Its  climate  is  not  considered  very  healthy. 


a.  The  Cathedral  and  its  Vicinity. 

The  cathedral  is  open  all  day  till  the  Ave  Maria  (la  Oracidn)^  but  the 
numerous  masses  often  interfere  with  the  visitor''s  inspection,  especially 
of  the  altars  and  choir.  Quiet  is  somewhat  rigorously  enforced  by  a  spe- 
cial set  of  officials  named  Sileneiiroe  or  Siknddrios^  popularly  known 
as  Azotaperros  or  dog-beaters.  The  stranger  asks  for  the  SacHstan  and  is 
then  handed  over  from  one  guide  to  another  (fee  V^'^Vs  P-  ^chi  accord- 
ing to  the  length  of  the  attendance).  —  The  aspect  of  the  cathedral  is 
new  and  characteristic  at  every  hour  of  the  day,  but  the  most  impressive 
effect  is  produced  a  little  before  sundown,  when  tbe  nave  and  aisles  are 
already  dark,  while  the  windows,  painted  'a  fuego',  glow  with  wonderful 
brilliancy.  —  The  building  is  best  entered  from  the  Glaustro  or  by  the 
Puerta  del  Reldj  (PI.  8),  in  the  Calle  de  la  Chapinerfa.  Hurried  visitors 
should  see  the  Gapilla  Maydr  (p.  133),  the  Coro  (p.  134),  the  Capilla  Mozarahe 
(p.  138),  the  Chapter  Room  (p.  136),  and  the  Capilla  de  Santiago  (p.  137). 

The  **  Cathedral  (PI.  D,  5;  comp.  the  accompanying  ground- 
plan),  the  Dives  Toletana  (p.  403),  the  chief  lion  of  the  city  and  the 
first  object  of  every  stranger's  curiosity,  lies  on  a  level  site  at  the 
foot  of  the  ridge  extending  from  the  Alcazar  to  San  Juan  de  los 
Reyes.  It  is,  unfortunately,  so  hemmed  in  by  other  buildings  that 
no  free  view  of  it  can  be  obtained. 

The  site  was  occupied  even  in  the  Yisigothic  period  by  a  Christian 
temple,  dedicated,  according  to  a  still  extant  inscription  (p.  140), 
to  the  Virgin  by  King  Reccared  on  April  12th,  687.  Among  the 
occupants  of  the  episcopal  see  in  connection  with  it  were  SS.  Eugen- 
ius,  Eladius,  Ildefonso,  and  Julian.  In  712  the  Moors  converted  the 
church  into  their  Al-Djdmfaj  or  principal  mosque ;  and  on  the  capture 
of  the  town  by  Alfonso  VI.  in  1086  they  were  expressly  allowed  to 
retain  it  for  the  Muslim  worship.  The  very  next  year,  however,  at 
the  instigation  of  Archbishop  Bernhard  and  Queen  Constance ,  the 
Christians  took  forcible  possession  of  the  building.  St.  Ferdinand 
caused  the  old  church  to  be  torn  down,  and  on  Aug.  11th,  1227,  laid 
the  foundation-stone  of  the  present  edifice.  The  process  of  building 
went  on  more  or  less  continuously  from  that  date  to  Jan.,  1493,  a 
period  of  more  than  265  years.  Among  its  architects  are  named 
Pedro  Perez  (d.  1286),  who  superintended  the  building  for  more 
than  half- a- century ;  then  (after  1389)  Bodrigo  Alfonso  and  Al- 


CATEDRAL  DE  TOLEDO 

«*     »    ">         *•         «**  ^        »0..-.— 


a^lle.     die.    la     Tripe^ri^ 


C.  delArco  del  Pahoudo  Arzdbisp. 


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15 
16 

d^SaiiEagenio 

17 
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19 

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20 

de^anAXL 

21 

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PI.  de  Ayuntamiento 


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29  -     de.S(ntPtAv 

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31  "     dJJ^Baiittemdl 

32  -     dJf.S€Jkfrud.Unti^u£L 

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a.Ca(kedTal,  TOLEDO.  9.  Route.   M\ 

var  Qomet;  still  later,  Aimeqafn  dt  Egaf,  Martin  Sanchez j  Juan  Ouai 
(p.  146),  and  Enrique  de  Egos.  The  chapels,  the  sacristy,  the  sa- 
grario,  and  other  subordinate  buildings  date  from  a  still  later  period. 
~~  The  cathedral  was  rifled  by  the  Gomun^ros  in  1621  and  by  the 
French,  under  Oen.  La  Houssaye,  in  1808.  The  latter  robbed  the 
rejas  of  their  gilding  and  carried  off  2600  lbs.  of  silver  treasures. 

The  general  style  of  the  cathedral  is  the  early-Gothio  of  N.France, 
though  late  Gothic,  Renaissance,  and  baroque  features  bear  witness 
to  the  long  duration  of  its  building,  while  traces  of  Moorish  in- 
fluence are  not  wanting.  It  has  a  nave  and  double  aisles,  and  ends 
on  the  E.  in  a  semicircular  apse  with  a  double  ambulatory.  Its 
total  length  is  400  ft.,  its  width  196  ft. ;  the  nave  is  100  ft.  high 
and  44  ft.  wide;  the  inner  aisles  are  26  ft.,  the  outer  aisles  32  ft. 
•evots.  Its  area  is  about  the  same  as  that  of  Cologne  Cathedral  and 
somewhat  larger  than  that  of  York.  —  The  main  building  material 
is  granite  (piedra  berroque^)j  but  the  external  decorations  and  the 
interior  are  in  a  kind  of  limestone,  quarried  at  0Uhuela8j  near  Toledo. 

The  ExTBUOB  of  the  cathedral,  with  its  diminishing  aisles ,  its 
flying  buttresses  (arboiantes) ,  its  flnials  fpirdmidea  adomadas  de 
oreHerfa),  its  huge  doors,  and  its  fine  rose-windows  (roaeUmeSy  elara- 
boyeu),  makes  an  impression  of  most  imposing  size.  The  W.  facade 
is  flanked  by  two  projecting  *Tower8j  of  which  that  to  the  N.  (entr. 
opposite  the  door  No.  1  in  the  archbishop*s  palace,  p.  140)  has  alone 
been  finished.  This  ends  in  a  small  spire,  with  three  rows  of  metal 
rays  projecting  from  its  sides  and  surmounted  by  a  cross,  a  vane,  and 
an  arrow ;  it  is  296  ft.  in  height.  It  was  built  under  Archbishop 
Pedro  Tenorio  (1380-1440)  by  Sodrigo  Alfonso  and  Alvar  Oomez. 
Among  its  bells  is  the  famous  Campana  Odrda^  weighing  nearly  two 
tons  and  east  by  Alejandro  OargoUo  in  1763.  This  has  been  cracked 
by  a  too  violent  use  of  the  clapper  (badajo)y  which  here  rests  on  the 
floor.  The  Qorda  is  surrounded  by  eight  other  bells,  and  farther  up 
are  two  more.  In  another  stage  is  the  itficKraea,  worked  by  a  curious 
piece  of  mechanism  and  pealed  continuously  from  the  Gloria  of 
Maundy  Thursday  till  the  Gloria  of  the  Saturday  before  Easter 
(48  hrB.).  At  the  top  is  the  CimbaUUo  or  EequCon,  used  for  sum- 
moning the  canons  (prebendados).  The  summit  of  the  tower  affords 
an  admirable  view  of  Toledo  and  its  ^campifia'.  —  The  S.  tower, 
which  eon  tains  the  Capilla  Mozarabe  (p.  136),  remained  unfinished 
and  was  provided  with  a  cupola  by  Jorge  Manuel  Theotoc6pulij  son 
of  Domenieo  Theotocopuli,  the  painter  (p.  Ixviii). 

The  cathedral  possesses  eight  principal  ENTBAWCfBS.  On  the 
W.  Side  are  three  doors,  leading  from  a  *lonja'  enclosed  by  a  railing. 
They  are  seldom  open.  In  the  centre  is  the  Puerta  del  Perd^  (PI.  1 ; 
p.  xx»viil)5  to  the  S.  is  the  Paerta  de  los  EscribdnoB  (PI.  2),  used  by 
the  notaries  when  they  visit  the  cathedral  to  take  their  oaths ;  to 
the  N.  is  the  Puerta  de  la  Torre  (PI.  3).  These  all  date  from  1418- 
60  and  are  admirable  examples  of  the  Gothic  style.   Above  each  of 

9* 


132  RmiteO,  TOLEDO.  a.  CaihedtaL 

them  is  a  relief,  that  over  the  central  door  representing  the  gift  of 
the  chasuble  to  St.  Ildefonso  (p.  140).  Above  the  doors  the  facade 
is  adorned  with  numerons  statues,  a  sculpture  of  the  Last  Supper 
with  colossal  figures  in  niches,  and  a  large  rose-window,  nearly 
30  ft.  in  diameter.  The  uppermost  part  of  the  fa^de  is  in  the 
baroque  style  (1787).  —  The  first  door  on  the  8.  Side  of  the  cathedral 
is  the  Fuerta  Liana  (PI.  4),  or  the  level  door,  erected  by  Ignazxo 
Hadm  in  the  classic  style  in  1800  in  place  of  the  old  Puerta  de  los 
Garret6nes,  and  so  named  because  it  has  no  steps  before  it.  At 
the  S.  end  of  the  transept,  which  is  approached  by  a  wide  flight 
of  steps,  is  the  superb  Pub&ta  db  los  Lbonbs  (PL  6),  so  called 
from  the  six  shield-bearing  lions.  It  was  erected  in  1460  in  the 
richest  Gothic  style  by  the  Fleming  Annequfn  de  Egos  and  or- 
namented by  Juan  Alemdn;  the  upper  part  was  added  in  the 
18th  cent,  by  Eugenio  Jhtrango,  The  relief  of  the  Assumption  over 
the  door  is  also  modern.  The  beautiful  bronze  doors  were  executed 
by  ViUalpando  and  Bvi  J>ia%  del  Condi  in  1646-60 ;  the  wood-carv- 
ings on  the  inside  are  by  Alecu  and  the  Dutchman  Diego  Copin. 
Above  the  door  are  a  large  rose-window  and  (inside)  an  organ.  — r 
At  the  W.  end  of  the  N,  Side  of  the  cathedral,  adjoining  the  tower, 
is  the  PuEBTA  DE  LA  Presbntaci6n  (PL  6),  a  good  example  of  the 
Renaissance  style,  constructed  after  1666  by  Castanida^  Hemandea^ 
Mantano,  and  other  artists.  Above  the  keystone  of  the  arch  is  a 
relief  of  the  Presentation.  —  Farther  to  the  E.  is  the  Pubbta  ds 
Santa  Catalina  (PL  7),  dating  from  the  16th  century.  The  capital 
of  the  middle  pillar  is  adorned  with  a  relief  of  the  burial  of  St. 
Catharine,  above  which  is  a  portrait  of  the  saint.  Over  the  lintel  is 
a  painting  of  the  Annunciation  by  Luis  de  Velasco  (1684).  —  The 
Pubbta  del  Rbl5j  (PL  8),  or  door  at  the  N.  end  of  the  transept, 
to  which  a  flight  of  steps  descends,  is  so  named  from  the  clock  above 
it  It  is  also  sometimes  called  the  Puerta  del  Nino  Perdido  oi  de  la 
Feriay  because  the  annual  fair  begins  here.  It  dates  from  the  be- 
ginning of  the  16th  cent.,  and  its  reliefs  and  statues  have  only  an 
historical  interest.  Some  additions  were  made  by  Durango  at  the 
end  of  the  18th  century.  To  the  left  is  a  lofty  square  Tower^  built 
by  Alvar  Gomez  in  1426  and  containing  the  two  large  bells  of  the 
clock.  An  interesting  Gothic  grille  of  1482  connects  the  Gapilla  de 
San  Pedro,  to  the  W.  of  this  doorway,  with  the  Sagrario  and  Och&vo 
to  the  E.  of  it. 

The  *Intbriob  of  the  Cathedral  is  unusually  impressive,  though 
its  effect  is  somewhat  impaired,  especially  to  those  entering  from  the 
W.,  by  the  intrusion  of  the  coro  (p.  134),  The  *Windowt  are  filled 
with  admirable  stained  glass,  with  scenes  from  the  New  Testament 
and  the  hagiology,  coats-of-arms,  portraits,  and  other  subjects.  The 
earliest  (in  the  nave)  were  executed  in  1418  et  seq^  by  the  Flemish 
^Maestro  Yidrittd  Jacob  Dolfinj  and  by  his  successors  Luis  and  Gtbs^ 


a,  CathfdraL  TOLEDO.  9.  Route,   133 

pdn  of  Uireeht  (1429),  Alberto  de  Holanda  (1525),  and  others.  The 
later  windows  in  the  aisles,  by  Nkolds  de  Vergdra  and  his  sons 
Nieolds  and  Juan  (1560),  exhibit  freer  handling  but  lack  the  depth 
of  colour  possessed  by  the  more  ancient  ones.  The  masterly  vaulting 
is  borne  by  piers  formed  of  8-16  clustered  shafts,  with  rich  capitals. 
.The  floor  is  a  mosaic  of  black  and  white  marble.  —  The  outer 
aisles  are  flanked  by  22  chapels,  placed  between  the  piers  of  the  ex- 
ternal walls  and  enclosed  by  screens.  —  The  most  striking  features 
of  the  fine  Tratuepig  are  the  great  rose-windows  and  the  triforium 
with  niches  and  statues  running  round  the  walls.  —  Below  the 
cathedral  is  an  immense  QrfQ^I,  with  88  massive  piers  corresponding 
to  those  in  the  ehurch  above. 

We  begin  our  detailed  inspection  of  the  church  at  the  •Oa- 
rtLLA  ICatob,  which  originally  occupied  only  the  first  bay  to  the  E. 
of  the  crossing,  but  afterwards  took  in  the  second  also,  i.e.  the  former 
Capilla  de  los  Reyes  Vi^jos.  Card.  Xlmtfnez  removed  this  chapel  (see 
below),  without  disturbing  the  coffins  of  the  kings  and  archbishops 
hurled  below  it,  and  in  1498-1504  built  the  present  capilla  may6r, 
with  its  huge  retablo  and  royal  monuments.  The  groining,  the 
arches,  and  the  upper  part  of  the  piers  are  painted  in  blue  and  gold ; 
the  walls  and  piers  are  profusely  adorned  with  statues,  columns,  can- 
opies, angels  with  musical  instruments,  gilded  foliage,  and  fantastic 
creations  of  various  kinds.  Above  runs  a  triforium  with  horseshoe 
arches  and  columns,  and  over  this  are  circular  windows  with  stained 
glass.  The  floor  is  a  mosaic  of  red  and  white  marble.  The  ca- 
pilla may6r  is  separated  from  the  transept  (whence  three  steps 
ascend)  by  a  magnificent  plateresque  ♦Reja,  executed  by  Francisco 
VUlaJpdndo  and  completed  in  1548.  It  is  divided  by  four  columns 
into  five  parts,  adorned  with  ornamentation  in  relief,  and  is  surmount- 
ed by  candelabra,  escutcheons,  and  a  colossal  crucifixion.  The  reja  is 
made  of  a  mixture  of  iron,  copper,  and  brass,  and  was  once  wholly 
gilded  and  silvered.  Among  the  statues  in  this  chapel  is  one  (to 
the  left)  of  Martin  Alhaga  or  Malo^  the  Shepherd  of  Las  Navas,  who 
showed  Alfonso  VIII.  the  mountain-path  that  enabled  him  to  reach 
the  battlefield  of  Las  Navas  de  Tolosa  (p.  302).  To  the  right  is  the 
Alfaqui  Abu  WaUd^  who  made  peace  between  Alfonso  VI.  and  Bishop 
Bernhard,  when  the  former  was  incensed  over  the  high-handed  expul- 
sion of  the  Moors  from  their  mosque  (p.  130).  —  The  lofty  *Retablo 
of  the  high-altar,  made  of  larch-wood,  gilded  and  painted  in  the 
richest  Gothic  style,  was  erected  under  Card.  Ximtfnez  (1500-1604). 
It  was  designed  by  Philip  VigamfAiid  Alfonso  Sanchez,  and  executed 
by  IXego  Copin,  Petit  Jean,  SebasUdn  de  Almonacid,  and  other  artists. 
The  five  stages  represent  scenes  from  the  New  Testament,  the  figures 
being  all  either  lifesize  or  larger.  At  the  top  is  a  colossal  Mt.  Cal- 
vary. In  the  middle  is  a  fine  pyramidal  Cusi6dia,  containing  the 
Sagrdrio  or  pyx.  —  Among  the  monuments  (Enterramientos)  on  the 
walls  is  (left)  the  Renaissance  tomb  of  Cardinal  Pedro  Oonxale% 


1  34    Route  9.  TOLEDO.  a,  CathedraL 

de  Mmddia  (d.  1495),  the  so-called  'Tercir  Bey\  consisting  of  a 
Baicophagus  with  a  recumbent  flguie.  On  the  exterior  of  the  same 
wall  is  an  altar  with  a  medallion  by  CovarrHbiaa ,  representing  the 
cardinal  adoring  the  Holy  Cross,  which  is  held  by  St.  H^ena.  — 
The  SepuLcros  Reales  of  the  ^Reyes  Vitfjos',  to  the  right  and  left  of 
the  high-altar,  consist  of  richly  decorated  niches,  executed  by  Diego . 
Copin  in  1507  and  containing  the  older  sarcophagi,  on  which  lie 
effigies  of  1289.  On  the  Gospel  side  are  the  tombs  of  Alfonso  VJI, 
and  the  Infante  Don  Pedro  de  AgiUldr,  son  of  Alfonso  XI. ;  on  the 
Epistle  side  are  Sancho  IV.  (el  Bravo)  and  Sancho  III,  (el  Deseddo), 

To  the  S.  of  the  capilla  mayor  is  the  entrance  to  the  CapUla  del 
Santo  SepvXcro  (PL  9;  usually  closed),  so  called  from  a  Deposition 
in  the  Tomb  above  the  high-altar ,  carved,  by  Diego  Copin  (1514) 
and  painted  by  Juan  de  Borgofia. 

To  the  E.  of  the  capilla  may6r  is  the  monument  of  (Jardinal 
Diego  de  Astorya,  including  the  Trasparente  (PL- 10),  a  barbaric  but 
extraordinarily  well-executed  'fricassee  de  marbre*,  completed  by 
Narciso  Tomi  in  1732  and  deriving  its  name  from  the  opening  by 
which  light  is  admitted  to  the  Camarin  behind  the  high-altai. 
Amid  the  chaos  of  angels  and  clouds  is  the  Archangel  Raphael,  kick- 
ing his  feet  in  the  air  and  holding  a  large  golden  fish  in  his  hand. 

The  *CoBo,  a  worthy  rival  of  the  capilla  maydr,  though  gen- 
erally too  dark  to  be  properly  appreciated,  occupies  the  two  bays  of- 
the  nave  to  the  W.  of  the  transept.  The  reja  separating  it  from  the 
latter  is  the  work  of  Domingo  de  Cespedes  (1548).  On  the  three  other 
sides  it  is  surrounded  by  walls,  against  the  inside  of  which  are 
placed  the  sillerfa  (see  below)  and  the  organs.  The  floor  is  of 
marble,  finely  inlaid.  The  Altar  de  Prima  is  so  called  because 
mass  is  read  here  at  the  first  hour  of  the  day.  Over  it  is  the  'Yirgen 
de  la  Blanca',  a  figure  in  black  stone,  and  round  it  is  a  good  reja 
by  Francisco  Villalpando  and  Rui  Diaz  de  Corrdl,  —  In  the  middle 
of  the  choir  are  three  reading-desks.  The  two  larger  ones  (airi- 
UraSj  facist6les)j  executed  by  Nicolds  de  Vergdra^  his  like-named 
son,  and  Juan  Corbella  (1570),  are  made  of  gilded  bronze  and  iron 
in  the  form  of  a  Doric  building.  The  third  atrfl,  called  El  AguUoy 
is  in  the  shape  of  a  huge  brazen  eagle  with  outstretohed  wings, 
by  Vicente  Salinas  (1646).  The  Gothic  castle  on  which  it  stands 
was  made  by  a  German  artist  in  1425  and  was  originally  intended 
for  another  purpose.  —  The  chief  glory  of  the  choir  is,  however, 
its  superb  **SillerCa,  or  stalls,  two  rows  of  which  occupy  the  lower 
part  of  the  walls.  The  Sillerfa  Baja,  carved  in  walnut-wood  by  the 
^Entalladik'  Rodriguez  in  1495,  consists  of  50  seats  and  5  flights  of 
steps.  The  54  medallions  represent  scenes  in  the  newly*  (1492) 
concluded  conquest  of  Granada,  and  contain  many  interesting  details 
of  costumes  and  manners.  The  carvings  and  tracery  are  in  a  florid 
Gothic  style,  and  show  a  most  exuberant  fancy  in  the  representation 
of  grotesque  figures,  the  introduction  of  animals  in  the  most  unex- 


a,  Caihedral.  TOLEDO.  9.  Route,   1 35 

peeted  situations,  and  the  like.  —  The  8iUer(a  AUa  is  also  of  wal» 
nut-wood,  but  is  most  elaborately  adorned  with  intarsia-work  fern- 
butfdotjf  Jasper  columns  with  alabaster  bases  and  capitals,  alabaster 
eanopies,  eharming  figures  in  relief  on  the  backs  of  the  stalls,  a 
frieze  of  medallions,  and  delicate  oarTing  on  every  aYailable  sur- 
face. It  was  finished  in  1543,  the  35  stalls  on  the  Gospel  side 
being  by  AloMo  BerrugueU  and  the  35  stalls  on  the  Epistle  side  by 
PhUip  Vigamt  Of  these  two  artists  the  inscription  says:  'Gerta- 
venint  artiflcnm  ingenia;  certabnnt  semper  spectatorum  judicia*. 
—  The  SUla  Anobiapdl,  at  the  W.  end  of  the  core,  bears  the  arms 
of  Card.  Silic^  and  was  made  by  Bermguete.  Its  bronse  columns 
support  a  canopy,  above  which  is  a  lifesize  alabaster  group  of  the 
Transfiguration  on  Mt.  Tabor.  The  back  of  the  throne  is  embellished 
with  a  medallion  of  St.  Ildefonso,  receiving  the  chasuble,  by  Gregdrio 
VigamCj  a  brother  of  Philip. 

Tbe  Bespaldotj  or  outer  faces  of  the  side-walls  of  the  core,  are 
adorned  by  a  Gothic  arcade,  borne  by  52  columns  of  the  famous 
Toledo  jasper.  Above  the  arcade  are  56  medallions  with  reliefs  of 
scenes  from  the  Old  Testament,  executed  about  1380  by  the  un- 
known sculptor  of  the  subjects  on  the  Puerta  de  Rel6j.  —  In  tbe 
middle  of  the  Traaeoro,  or  back  of  the  choir,  is  a  medallion  by  Alonso 
Bemi(fueUj  representing  God  the  Father  and  the  Evangelists.  To 
the  right  and  left  are  alabaster  statnes  of  Innocence  and  Guilt  (Ino^ 
etneia  and  Culpa),  by  Nieol&i  de  Verg6fa  (ca.  1550). 

We  now  begin  our  visitation  of  the  side-chapels  and  subsidiary 
buildings  at  the  Gapilla  Mozarabb  (PI.  11),  in  the  S.W.  angle 
of  the  church,  where  divine  service  is  celebrated  daily  at  9.30  a.m. 
according  to  the  Visigoth ic  or  Mozarabic  ritual.  This  ritual  differs 
from  the  ^Latin'  in  thirteen  points  (which  may  be  found  detailed  in 
Farra*$  'Gompendio  del  Toledo  en  la  mano\  p.  41),  and  down  to 
1851  was  observed  also  in  six  of  the  city  parochial  churches.  The 
chapel  was  built  for  Gard.  Xim^nez  by  Enrique  de  Ega»  in  1504. 
The  upper  part  is  by  Juan  de  Arteaga  and  Franeiaeo  de  Vargae 
(1519)',  the  cupola  was  added  by  Jorge  Manuel  Theotoc6puU  (p.  131) 
in  1626.  The  fine  reja  is  by  Juan  Frances  (1524).  Above  the  altar 
to  the  right  is  a  mosaic  of  the  Virgin  and  Child,  sent  from  Rome  by 
Card.  Lorenzetti  (1794).  Tbe  fresco  in  front  of  us,  by  Juan  de  Bor- 
gona  (1514),  represents  scenes  from  the  capture  of  Oran,  at  which 
Gard.  Ximtfnez  was  present.  To  the  right  he  is  seen  embarking  at 
Cartagena,  and  to  the  left  landing  at  Mars-el-Kebir.  In  the  centre 
is  the  storming  of  Oran.  The  AguUa  and  other  large  Atriliras  (p.  134) 
should  be  noticed.  —  The  CapUku  de  la  Epifania  (PI.  12),  de  la  Con- 
cepekfn(Fl.  13),  and  de  San  MarUn  (PI.  14^  are  devoid  of  interest. 
*  The  CApiiiLA  DB  San  Euo^nio  (PI.  15j  is  enclosed  by  a  fine 
reja  by  Enrique  de  Ega$  (1500)  and  contains  a  statue  of  St.  Engen- 
ins  by  Diego  Copin  (1517)  and  an  altar-  piece  with  paintings  from 
tbe  life  of  Christ  by  Juan  de  Borgona  (1516).  To  the  left  is  the  tom^ 


1  36    Route  9.  TOLEDO.  a.  Cathedral. 

of  BUhop  Fernando  del  Castillo  (d.  1521),  with  Ms  effigy  in  alabaster ; 
to  the  right  is  the  tomb  of  the  Alguacil  Feman  Oudiel  (d.  1278),  a 
good  specimen  of  the  Saracenic  style. 

On  the  wall  of  the  aisle  beyond  the  chapel  of  San  Engenio  is  the 
so-called  Cristobtddn,  a  colossal  figure  (46  ft.  high)  of  St.  Chris- 
topher (Cristdbal),  painted  at  an  early  period  and  restored  by  Oa- 
briel  de  Btieda  in  1638.  —  "We  next  pass  the  Puerta  de  los  Leones 
(PI.  5;  p.  132)  and  reach  the  Gothic  CapiUa  de  8ania  Lucf a  {Ph  16), 
the  pation-saint  of  the  blind,  erected  in  the  13th  centnry.  To  the 
left  of  the  entrance  is  a  John  the  Baptist,  by  Ribera  or  Caravaggio^ 
to  the  right  is  a  St.  Bartholomew,  by  Maella  (1786).  This  chapel 
also  contains  some  interesting  inscriptions  of  the  13th  century.  — 
The  CapiUa  de  Reyes  VUjos  (Pi.  17),  founded  in  1290  as  the  CapiUa 
del  Espfritu  Santo  (comp.  p.  133),  has  a  beautiful  reja  by  Domingo 
de  Cespedes  (1629).  The  three  retablos  on  the  E.  side,  by  Francisco 
Comontes  (1639),  contain  some  interesting  pictures  by  Juan  Alfon 
(1418),  ranking  among  the  earliest  efforts  of  oil-painting.  —  The 
Capillas  de  Santa  Ana  (PI.  18),  (te  San  Juan  BautUta  (PI.  19),  de 
San  Oa  (PI.  20),  and  de  San  Nicolds  (PI.  21)  are  uninteresting.  The 
door  adjoining  the  last  leads  to  the  — 

•*Sala  Capitular,  erected  in  1504-12  by  Pedro  Oumiel  and 
Enrique  de  Egas.  Through  a  fine  portal  by  Diego  Copin  (1510)  we 
enter  the  Antesala,  with  a  marble  floor,  an  artesonado  ceiling  by 
Francisco  de  Lara  (1617),  and  a  plateresque  frieze  by  Juan  de  Bor- 
gona.  By  the  N.  wall  is  a  fine  cupboard  or  wardrobe  by  Oregorio 
Pardo  (1651) ;  that  by  the  S.  wall ,  by  Oregorio  Lopez  Durango 
(1780),  is  less  important.  —  The  square  portal  leading  hence  to  the 
Chapter  Room  proper,  executed  by  Maestro  Pablo  and  Bernardino 
Bonifacio,  is  purely  Moorish  in  style.  The  Sala  Capitular  is  a  beau- 
tiful rectangular  room,  with  a  superb  artesonado  ceiling,  painted  in 
red,  blue,  and  gold,  and  perhaps  superior  to  all  the  similar  ceilings 
of  Andalusia.  It  was  begun  by  Diego  Lopez  de  Arenas  of  Seville 
and  finished  by  Francisco  de  Lara  in  1508.  The  painting  and  the 
frieze  are  by  Luis  de  Medina  and  Alfonso  Sanchez  (1510).  The  walls 
are  adorned  with  a  celebrated  series  of  13  *Painting8  by  Juan  de 
Borgona.  On  the  entrance-wall  is  the  Last  Judgment  (Jufcio  Findl); 
opposite  wall,  Descent  from  the  Cross,  Pietk,  and  Resurrection ;  right 
wall ,  Conception ,  Nativity ,  Presentation ,  and  Annunciation ;  left 
wall.  Visitation,  Circumcision,  Death  and  Assumption  of  the  Virgin, 
Presentation  of  the  Chasuble  to  St.  II defense.  Below  these  paint- 
ings is  a  series  of  'portraits'  of  the  archbishops  by  Juan  de  Borgona, 
of  which,  however,  two  only  —  those  of  Mendoza  and  Xim^nez  — 
are  really  authentic  likenesses.  The  stalls  were  carved  by  JVan- 
cisco  de  Lara  in  1512 ;  the  archiepiscopal  throne  in  the  middle  is 
by  Diego  Copin  (1614).  Above  the  latter  is  an  attractive  painting 
of  the  Virgin  and  Child,  by  a  Flemish-Spanish  Master  of  about  1500. 
Passing  the  Capilla  de  la  Trinidad  (PL  22),  we  now  reach  the 


a.  Cathedral  TOLEDO.  9.  Rofitf.    137 

^Cafilla  db  San  Ildbfonbo  (PI.  23),  a  beautifal  Gothic  oetagon 
at  the  extreme  £.  end  of  the  church.  It  was  founded  at  a  very  early 
date  by  Archbishop  Kodrigo  and  renewed  in  the  14th  cent,  by  Card. 
€fU  de  AWomdx.  The  two  piers  at  the  entrance  are  bedecked  with 
all  manner  of  sculptures  and  medallions  and  are  generally  surrounded 
by  kneeling  worshippers,  —  especially  that  to  the  left,  which  supports 
the  Virgen  del  PU6r  and  a  piece  of  marble  from  the  column  of  the 
Virgin  at  Saragossa  (p.  168).  —  The  costly  marble  altar  at  the  E.  end, 
with  a  reli'ef  by  M.  F,  Alvarez  of  the  Gift  of  the  Chasuble  to  St.  Ilde- 
fonso,  has  little  artistic  merit  (1783).  On  the  wall  to  the  left,  above 
thm  altar,  is  the  so-called  CrUto  de  la  Cru%  al  Rtvis,  In  the  middle  of 
the  chapel  stands  the  Monument  of  Card,  Albom6%  (d.  1364,  at  Yi- 
terbo).  By  the  right  wall  is  the  tomb  of  Alonso  Carrillo  de  Albom6ty 
Bishop  of  Avila  (d.  1614),  executed  by  Pedro  Lopez  de  Tejdda  in 
1545  in  the  richest  Renaissance  style.  Adjacent  is  that  of  his  brother 
Inigo  Lopez  CarrUlo  de  Mendoxoy  Viceroy  of  Sardinia  (killed  in  1491 
at  the  siege  of  Granada),  with  a  recumbent  marble  efflgy  on  a 
sarcophagus.  The  simple  tomb  of  ArehbUhop  Oaspar  de  Borja 
(d.  1646)  is  in  black  marble.  On  the  left  side  of  the  chapel  is  the 
similar  tomb  of  the  Papal  Legate  Alejandro  Frumento  (d.  1680). 
Adjoioing  the  high-altar  is  that  of  Archbp.  Juan  Martinez  de  Con- 
trcras(d.  1434). 

The  *Gapilla  db  Santiago  (PI.  24)  was  erected  in  1436,  on 
the  site  of  an  earlier  chapel  dedicated  to  St.  Thomas  of  Canterbury 
(1177),  by  Count  Alvaro  de  Luna,  the  once  all-powerful  favourite 
of  John  II.,  who  was  executed  at  Valladolid  in  1463.  He  fitted  it 
np  as  his  family  burial-chapel,  and  placed  in  it  a  huge  bronze  mau- 
soleum, which  was  afterwards  destroyed.  The  chapel  is  in  the  most 
elaborate  Gothic  style  and  is,  like  that  of  St.  Ildefonso,  octagonal 
in  shape.  The  retablo  of  the  high-altar,  executed  in  1498  by  Sancho 
de  Zamdra,  Juan  de  Segovia,  and  Pedro  Oumiel,  includes  an  eques- 
trian figure  of  St.  James  the  Elder  and  a  portrait  of  the  founder  as 
Grand-Master  of  the  Order  of  Santiago.  Above  the  retablo  is  a  col- 
ossal relief  of  St.  James  fighting  the  Moors.  The  14  paintings  of 
the  retablo  are  unimportant,  as  are  also  the  other  two  altars.  —  The 
chief  feature  of  interest  in  the  chapel  is  the  six  Gothic  *Tombs  of 
Carrara  marble,  all  executed  by  Pablo  Ortiz  in  1488  et  seq.  at  the 
order  of  Dona  Maria  de  Luna,  daughter  of  Count  Alvaro.  In  the 
middle  are  the  much  damaged  monuments  of  Alvaro  de  Luna^  clad  in 
full  armour  and  enveloped  in  the  cloak  of  the  Order  of  Santiago,  and 
his  wife  Dona  Juana  Pimentel  (d.  1488).  At  each  corner  of  Al- 
Yaro's  tomb  kneels  a  Knight  of  Santiago,  and  at  his  feet  are  a  kneel- 
ing page  and  a  helmet  wreathed  in  laurel  and  ivy.  At  the  comers 
of  his  wife^s  tomb  are  four  Franciscan  monks,  at  her  feet  a  waiting 
woman.  In  recesses  in  the  left  wall  are  the  tomb  of  Arehbp.  Juan  de 
CerezuSla  (d.  1442),  maternal  uncle  of  Don  Alvaro,  and  Arehbp 
Pedro  de  Luna  (d.  1414),  his  uncle  on  the  father's  side.  By  t> 


138   Route  9,  TOLEDO.  o.  Cathedral. 

wall  to  the  right  repose  his  son  Juan  de  Luna,  Conde  de  8anti$Uban, 
and  a  nameless  kinsman,  probably  his  father. 

The  Capillas  de  Santa  Leoc&dia  (PI.  25)  and  del  Cristo  de  la 
Columna  (PI.  26)  may  be  left  nn visited.  The  passage  between  the 
chapels  of  Santiago  and  Santa  Leocadia  leads  to  the  highly  inter- 
esting *Oapilla  db  Rbtes  Nuevos  (PI.  27;  closed  after  9  a.m.), 
so  called  from  the  later  line  of  kings  descended  from  the  illegitimate 
Henry  II.,  who  killed  his  brother  Peter  the  Cruel  (p.  396).  The 
chapel  was  originally  built  in  the  N.  aisle,  on  the  site  of  the  Gapilla 
delaDescen8i6n(p.  140);  the  present  handsome  Benaissance  structure 
was  erected  by  Alonao  de  Covarrubias  in  1534.  The  flue  Portal, 
flanked  by  two  armed  kings  bearing  escutcheons,  leads  into  an  AnU 
Capilla,  through  which  we  enter  the  chapel  proper,  consisting  of 
three  bays.  In  the  first  of  these  are  a  Portuguese  standard,  taken 
at  the  battle  of  Toro  (1476),  and  an  old  suit  of  armour  worn  by  the 
standard-bearer  Duarte  de  Almeida.  In  the  second  bay,  beyond 
the  reja  by  Domingo  de  Cespedes,  is  the  Silleria,  above  which,  on 
each  side,  are  two  ^Niches,  elaborately  framed  and  containing  the 
sarcophagi  and  effigies  of  the  kings.  To  the  right  are  Henry  II. 
himself  (d.  1378)  and  his  wife  Dofw,  Juana  (d.  1381);  to  the  left 
are  Henry  III,  (d.  1407)  and  his  wife  Dona  CataUna  Alencastre 
(i.e.  *  of  Lancaster' ;  d.  1418),  daughter  of  John  of  Gaunt.  In  similar 
niches  to  the  right  and  left  of  the  altar  lie  John  I,  (d.  1390),  sou  of 
Henry  II.,  and  his  wife  Leonora  (d.  1382),  both  by  Jorge  de  Con- 
trSras.  In  the  comer  to  the  right,  by  the  tomb  of  Juana,  is  a  kneel- 
ing figure,  by  Juan  de  Borgona,  of  John  II.  (d.  1454),  the  builder  of 
the  *old  chapel',  who  is  buried  in  the  Oartuja  de  Miraflores  (p.  35). 

The  set  of  apartments  we  next  visit:  —  the  Sacristfa,  Vestu&rio, 
Cuarto  de  la  Cust6dla,  Ochavo,  and  Gapilla  de  la  Vfrgen  del  Sagrario 
—  were  built  by  Nicolds  de  Vergdra  the  Younger  in  1592-1616,  on 
the  site  of  an  old  hospital.  —  The  entrance  to  the  Sacristia  is 
beyond  the  Cap.  del  Cristo  de  la  Columna  (see  above).  From  the 
Ante-Sacriatia  we  pass  through  a  fine  portal,  the  doors  of  which  (26  ft. 
high)  are  by  Torfbio  Oonzales,  into  the  large  8al6n  de  la  Sacristfaj 
containing  several  good  paintings.  The  altar-piece  (Casting  lots  for 
the  raiment  of  the  Saviour)  is  by  Dom,  Theotocdpuli^  surnamed  El 
Oreeo  (1587).  Other  paintings  are  by  Qoya  (Betrayal  of  Christ), 
Ramos,  Juan  de  Pant6ja^  and  Luca  Giordano.  The  ceiling  is  also 
painted  by  the  last.  The  last  archway  on  the  E.  wall  contains  the 
tomb  of  Card.  Luis  Maria  de  Borbon  (d.  1823),  by  Salvatierra. —  The 
door  in  the  £.  wall  leads  to  the  Vestuabio,  the  groining  of  which 
was  painted  in  1671  by  Claudio  Coello  and  Josi  Donoso.  Some  of 
the  vestments  are  very  handsomely  embroidered.  Among  the  paint- 
ings here  are :  Luca  Giordano,  Baptism  of  Christ ;  Titian  (?),  Cruci- 
fixion ;  Van  Dyck  (?),  Pope  Clement  VH. ;  FVaneeaco  Bassano,  Cir- 
cumcision ;  Rubem,  Madonna ;  Guido  Reni,  San  Carlo  Borromeo  and 
St.  Philip  Neri;  Guercino,  David;  Dom,  Theotocdpuli^  St.  Francis; 


a.  Cathedral.  TOLEDO.  9.  Bouie.    139 

Mario  dei  Fiori,  Flower-pieces. —  The  Vestuario  is  adjoined  by  the 
CuABTo  DB  LA  Cu8t6dia,  formerly  the  cathedral  treasury  (see  be- 
low), containing  pictures  by  Van  jbyckj  Carlo  Maraitaf  and  others. 

The  GAPiiiLA  DB  LA  YiBOBN  DSL  Sao&abio  (Pi.  28)  is  approached 
through  the  CapUla  de  Santa  Marina^  which  is  usually  called  the 
Cap,  de  Doeiore$,  from  the  licentiates  who  receive  their  degrees  here. 
Visitors  are,  however,  seldom  admitted  to  the  main  chapel,  which 
contains  a  highly  venerated  figure  of  the  Virgin,  made  of  a  dark 
coloured  wood  and  almost  covered  with  valuable  jewellery.  —  To 
the  N.  of  the  Cap.  de  la  Yirgen  is  the  Ochaoo  ('octagon'),  containing 
the  BeUedriOf  or  collection  of  reliquaries.  It  is  entered  from  the  sac- 
risty. —  In  the  N.  ambulatory  of  the  apse,  opposite  the  entrance  to 
the  Cap.  de  Santa  Marina,  is  the  grave  of  Archbp,  Luit  Fcmandet 
Portocatriro  (d.  1709),  the  'King  Maker',  marked  by  a  slab  bearing 
the  inscription:  'Hie  jacet  pulvis  cinis  et  nihil'. 

We  now  paas  the  Puerta  del  Rel6j  (PI.  8;  p.  132)  and  enter  the  N. 
aisle,  off  which  opens  the  large  Gothic  Capilla  de  San  Pedbo  (PI .  29), 
now  used  as  a  parish-church.  It  was  built  by  Archbp.  Sancho  de 
Uojat  (d.  1422),  whose  fine  monument  is  seen  above  the  silleria  to 
the  left,  a  position  to  which  it  was  removed  (from  the  centre  of 
the  chapel)  during  a  renovation  by  Aichbp.  Lorenzana  (end  of  tho 
18th  cent.).  The  pictures  by  Baycu  are  insignificant.  —  Passing  the 
Puerta  de  SauU  Catalina  (PI.  7 ;  p.  132)  and  the  CapUla  de  la  Virgen 
de  la  Pieddd  (PL  30),  we  reach  the  CapUla  de  la  PUa  Bautismdl 
(PI.  30),  or  baptistry,  with  a  handsome  portal  and  a  rejaby  Domingo 
de  Ciiptdes.  The  beautiful  bronze  font  (pUa)  and  the  two  retablos 
on  the  side-walls  are  by  FrancU  ofAnttcerp  (Francisco  deAmberea). 
—  In  front  of  the  altai  of  the  small  CapUla  de  Nuettra  Senora  de  la 
Antigua  (PI.  32)  it  was  customary  to  consecrate  the  Spanish  banners 
used  in  the  wars  with  the  Moors.  Beyond  this  are  the  Capilla  de 
Teresa  de  Baro  (PI.  33)  and  the  inside  of  the  Puerta  de  la  Presen- 
taci6n  (p.  132).  —  We  have  now  reached  the  N.W.  angle  of  the 
church  and  anter  the  — 

Capilla  db  San  Juan  (PI.  34),  which  is  on  the  lowest  story  of 
the  N.W.  tower  and  is  also  called  the  Cap,  de  la  Torre  and  Cap.  de 
los  Can6nigo9  (adm.  only  by  special  permission  of  the  chapter).  It 
was  built  in  the  Renaissance  style  in  1537  by  Alonao  de  CovarrCiJbia^^ 
and  occupies  the  site  of  an  earlier  Cap.  de  Jems,  known  as  the  Quo 
Vadis.  The  fine  portal  is  adorned  with  a  relief  of  Christ  and  St. 
Peter  (Domine,  quo  vadis?).  The  interior  was  remodelled  in  1890, 
and  now  contains  the  *Cathbdbal  Tbbasubt  (Lias  Alhajas  = 
jewels).  The  chief  treasure  is  the  silver  *Custodia  executed  by 
Enriqv£  de  Arphe  for  Card.  Xim^nez  in  1624.  This  is  nearly  10  ft. 
high,  weighs  378  lbs.,  and  is  decorated  vnth  260  silver-gilt  statu- 
ettes. The  monstrance  it  enshrines,  weighing  4 lbs.,  is  said  to  be  made 
of  the  first  gold  that  Columbus  brought  from  the  New  World.  Her^ 
also  is  kept  the  wardrobe  of  the  Virgen  del  Sagrario  (see  above),  ir 


140   Route  9.  TOLEDO.  a.  Cathedral. 

eluding  her  costly  embroidered  mantle.  Other  objects  of  interest  are 
the  Onu  de  la  Manga,  made  by  the  Toledan  goldsmith  Oregorio  de  • 
Varona  (16th  cent.) ;  the  OuUSn^  or  archiepiscopal  cross,  which  Card. 
Mendoza  planted  on  theAlhambra  on  Jan.  2nd,  1492;  the  four  Geo- 
graphical Globes;  a  sword  said  to  have  belonged  to  Alfonso  YI. ;  the 
BibUa  de  Oro^  in  3  vols.  (12th  cent.) ;  a  statuette  of  St.  Francis  by 
AUmso  Cano  (?);  silver  reliefs  of  the  Rape  of  the  Sabines  and  the 
Death  of  Darius,  ascribed  to  Benvenuto  Cellini  (?). 

The  small  Capilla  db  la  Dbscbnsi6n  db  Nubstba  Sbnora 
(PL  36)  is  in  the  form  of  a  pyramidal  Gothic  tower  erected  (1610) 
against  the  second  pier  of  the  N.  aisle.  It  is  believed  to  mark  the 
spot  where  the  Virgin  alighted  on  Deo.  18th,  666,  to  present  St. 
Ildefonso,  the  champion  of  the  'Imaculada  Gonoepci6n',  with  the 
casuUa  or  chasuble.  The  scene  is  represented  in  the  medallion  over 
the  altar.  At  the  back  of  the  chapel,  behind  a  grating  in  a  marble 
frame,  is  a  piece  of  the  stone  on  which  the  Virgin  stood ;  it  is  much 
worn  by  the  fingers  of  the  devout,  which  are  thrust  through  the  grat- 
ing and  then  kissed. 

The  Gothic  Cloisters,  begun  in  1389,  are  most  conveniently  entered 
by  the  Puerta  del  MolUte  (PL  M)  on  the  W.  side,  where  ^molletes' 
(p.  127)  used  to  be  distributed  to  the  poor.  They  enclose  a  pleasant 
garden.  The  Claristro  Bajo  (lower  cloister)  is  embellished  with 
frescoes  by  Francisco  Bayeu,  representing  scenes  from  the  lives  of 
Eulogius,  Eugenius,  Gasilda,  and  other  saints.  The  twelfth  fresco, 
showing  St.  Leocadia  brought  to  trial,  is  by  Maella,  On  a  column 
in  the  middle  of  the  E.  walk  is  a  marble  cylinder  with  an  inscription 
referring  to  the  foundation  of  the  earliest  Christian  church  (comp. 
p.  130).  Adjacent  is  a  large  doorway  leading  to  the  8ala  Capituldr 
de  Veranoj  or  summer  chapter-house,  built  in  the  16th  cent,  by 
Card.  Xim^nez  (closed).  In  the  N.E.  angle  lies  the  Capilla  de  San 
Bias,  containing  the  tomb  of  its  founder.  Card.  Pedro  Tcnorio 
(d.  1399),  and  having  its  groining  adorned  with  frescoes  in  the  style 
of  Giotto.  —  To  reach  the  Claustro  Alto^  or  upper  cloisters,  we  pass 
through  the  door  in  the  Archiepiscopal  Palace  mentioned  at  p.  131 
and  through  an  archway  uniting  the  palace  with  the  cloisters.  Off 
the  cloisters  open  a  number  of  rooms  known  as  the  Claverfas ;  here, 
too,  are  kept  the  Monumento  used  in  Holy  Week,  and  the  Gigani6ne8 
de  Taraseaj  or  grotesque  figures  carried  through  the  streets  in  pro- 
cession (the  Ana  Bolena,  the  dragon  Tarasca,  etc.).  On  the  N.  side 
is  the  Chapter  Library,  founded  by  Card.  Tenorio  in  1380,  and 
containing  valuable  MSS.  and  specimens  of  early  printing. 

Opposite  the  W.  front  of  the  cathedral  stands  the  Falacio  Arzo- 
bispal  (PL  D,  5),  or  Archbishop's  Palace,  on  the  gronndfloor  of 
which  is  the  Biblioteca  Provincial,  containing  books  and  MSS.  from 
the  collection  of  Card.  Lorenzana,  a  portrait  of  the  historian  Mariana, 
and  other  objects  of  interest  (open  9-2). 


a.  AymUamimto.  TOLKDO.  9,  RouU.    141 

The  palace  bounds  the  N.W.  side  of  the  Plazubla  i>bl  Atvn- 
TAJOBNTO,  which  affords  the  best  Tiew  of  the  cathedral,  including 
the  Mozarabic  Chapel  with  its  cupola  and  the  open-work  steeple.  — 
On  the  S.W.  side  of  the  plaza  rises  the  — 

AyuatamiAiito  (PI.  D,  5),  or  city-hall,  built  in  the  15th  cent. 
and  remodelled  in  the  17th  by  Dom.  TheotccdpuU;  it  has  a  handsome 
facade  in  the  classical  style.  The  entrance  is  on  the  N.W.  side.  On 
the  wall  of  the  staircase  are  inscribed  the  following  verses  by  OofMz 
ManH^ue  (gold  letters  on  a  blue  ground,  now  hard  to  decipher): 

*ir9bla  ditcrttot  varonei  *Qood  geatlemen  with  high  forbears, 

Qu4  ffobemaU  a  Toledo^  'Who  govern  Toledo  city, 

£n  aquuioi  euaUmes  As  you  ascend  these  civic  Rtairs, 

Deaechdd  ku  afieUmu^  Ahandon  all  nepotic  eares, 

Codicia^  Umdr  y  mtdo.  Fear,  greed,  and  undue  pity. 

Por  los  ecmune*  prove^oa  Think  only  of  the  State's  behoof, 

Ac/dd  log  parUemlarf;  Not  of  the  gain  that  lureth  % 

Puu  90»  JIto  JHo9  pUaru  Since  you'  re  the  pillars  of  the  roof 

/)e  tan  riquUimos  Ueho$.  Which  God  provides,  be  yours  the  proof 

Siiad  ftnnoi  y  dereehot.  That  honour  still  endiireth'. 

Here  also  are  portraits  of  Charles  II.  and  his  wife  Marianne,  by 
Carreno.  The  8ala  de  Sesiones  dt  Verano  contains  tine  'azulejos*  and 
some  battle-scenes.  —  The  balcony  affords  a  good  view  of  the 
cathedral. 

The  Caile  de  Santa  J$abel  leads  to  the  S.  from  the  Plazuela  del  Ayunta- 
miento  to  the  scanty  remains  of  the  alleged  Palace  of  Ptter  the  Cruei  (?•, 
p.  138).  The  old  portal,  in  the  Kud^Jar  style,  is  immured  opposite,  in  the 
Convento  de  Santa  Itabel  (PI.  7j  D,  6). 

b.  Xorth-Easten  and  XortJiern  Qnarten  of  the  City. 

The  animated  Calle  dbl  Ookbbcio  (P1.D,  £,  4),  the  chief  bus- 
iness street  of  Toledo,  beginning  a  little  to  the  N.  of  the  cathedral, 
leads  to  the  Plasa  ve  Zocodov^k  (PI.  £,  4),  or  Plata  de  la  Consti- 
tueUin,  the  ibcus  of  the  city's  life.  The  name  Zocodov^r  is  connected 
with  the  Arable  SUkh,  a  market  (comp.  p.  384).  The  arcades  of  the 
large  buildings  surrounding  it  are  occupied  by  shops  and  the  caf^^s 
mentioned  at  p.  127.  The  Calle  de  las  Armas  runs  hence  to  the  N. 
to  the  Mirad^ro.  (p.  143),  and  the  Cuesta  del  Alc&zar  to  the  S.  to 
the  Alcazar  (p.  150).  The  Areo  de  la  Sangre  de  CrUto,  on  the  E. 
side  of  the  plaza,  leads  to  the  — 

CuBSTA  DBL  Cabmbn  Calzado  (PI.  E,  F,  4),  which  descends  to 
the  Tagus.  To  the  right  in  this  street  is  the  PbBdda  de  la  Sangre,  the 
former  Meidn  del  SeviUano,  in  which  Cervantes  lived ;  it  has  an  in- 
teresting court.  To  the  left  is  the  old  *  Hospital  de  Santa  Onu 
(PI.  E,  3,  4;  visitors  generally  admitted,  fee  V2-lp0>  now  belong- 
ing to  the  large  AcadSmia  Qeneral  MiUiar  (cadet  academy)  on  the 
other  side  of  the  way.  The  hospital  was  built  by  Enrique  de  Egos 
in  1494^1514  for  Card.  Pedro  Mendoza;  it  is  in  the  form  of  a  Malt- 
ese cross  and  is  one  of  the  masterpieces  of  the  Spanish  Renaissance 
Its  prototype  was  the  Colegio  May6r  de  Santa  Cruz  at  Valiadoli 


142  Bottt<f9.  TOLEDO.  h.  NoHh-Eastem 

and  it  served  itself  in  turn  as  the  model  of  the  Colegio  de  Santiago 
at  Salamanca.  One  of  the  finest  features  is  the  Ported^  constructed 
of  'piedra  blanca  de  la  Rosa'  and  marble.  It  is  adorned  with  the 
arms  and  motto  (* Ave  Maria  gratia  plena')  of  the  founder ;  and  over 
it  is  the  Adoration  of  the  Cross,  with  St.  Helena  to  the  right,  and 
the  kneeling  cardinal  and  St.  Peter  to  the  left.  The  two  fine  Patios 
have  double  rows  of  arcades.  In  the  first  of  them  is  the  Staircase, 
with  its  handsome  balustrades  and  a  wooden  ceiling  in  a  Moresco- 
plateresque  style.  The  Church,  originally  built  in  the  foftn  of  a 
Greek  cross  and  afterwards  much  disfigured,  has  been  despoiled  of 
all  its  contents.  Some  of  the  columns  in  the  second  patio  were 
brought  from  the  church  of  St.  Leocadia  (p.  147). 

Beyond  the  hospital  the  street,  which  is  lined  with  acacias,  de- 
scends, bending  to  the  right,  to  the  Puerta  de  Doct  Cantos  {J^h  F,  4) 
and  the  gorge  of  the  Tagus.  To  the  right,  below,  are  the  ruins  of 
an  Acueducto  Romano  (PI.  F,  4,  5).  —  Following  the  city-walls 
towards  the  N.,  we  pass  (right)  several  large  mills  and  the  Turbina 
Vargas  (PI.  F,  4),  or  municipal  pumping  apparatus,  which  replaces 
the  unsuccessful  Artificio,  built  by  Juanelo  Turriano  (p.  447)  in  1668. 
The  *Puente  de  Alcintara  (PI.  F,  3),  at  the  N.E.  angle  of 
the  city,  in  front  of  the  Puerta  de  Alcdntaray  spans  the  Tagus  in  one 
large  and  one  smaller  arch.  It  is  of  Moorish  origin  (Arab,  al  kan- 
tara  =  bridge),  but  the  present  structure  dates  mainly  from  the 
time  of  Alfonso  the  Learned  (1268)  and  Archbp.  Pedro  Ten6rio 
(1380).  On  the  W.  tower  (1484)  is  a  small  statue  of  St.  Ildefonso  by 
Berrwgwete,  with  an  inscription  of  Philip  II.  The  bridge  commands  a 
striking  view  of  the  Tagus  and  of  the  city,  culminating  in  the  colossal 
Alcazar.  —  On  the  heights  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  are  the  ruins 
of  the  CastiUo  de  San  Servando  or  de  San  Cervantes  (PI.  E,  3),  erected 
by  Alfonso  YI.  to  protect  the  convent  of  that  name  and  the  city, 
and  renewed  by  Alfonso  VIII.  (view).  The  Pasio  de  la  Rosa  leads 
from  the  bridge  to  the  rail,  station  {Estaci6n  delFerroearril;  PL  F,  3). 

In  the  Huerta  del  Rey,  to  the  N.E.  of  the  ftation  and  close  to  the  river, 
is  the  so-called  Palaeio  de  Oalicma^  the  remainf  of  a  Moorish  building,  sup- 
posed to  have  been  erected  by  the  mythical  King  Oala/ri  for  his  daughter 
Oaliana,  the  equally  mythical  lady-love  of  Charlemagne.  —  It  is  referred 
to  by  Sancho  Panza  (^Don  Quixote",  chap.  55). 

From  the  Alcantara  bridge  we  now  proceed  to  the  N.W.  and 
ascend  the  broad  road  which  passes  below  the  oldest  Moorish  walls 
(left)  and  then  skirts  the  more  recent  city-walls  (right),  constructed 
by  King  Wamba  (p.  129)  to  include  the  suburb  (arrabal)  of  Ante- 
queruela.  In  about  10  min.  we  reach  the  old  *  Puerta  del  Sol 
(PI.  D,  3),  a  structure  in  the  Mud€jar  style,  with  horseshoe  arches 
and  two  towers,  probably  built  about  1100  and  recently  restored. 
The  reliefs  on  the  W.  side,  representing  St.  Ildefonso  receiving  tiie 
casuUa  (p.  140)  and  the  Punishment  of  an  alguazil  (bailiff)  by  Fer- 
dinand III.,  are,  of  course,  of  later  date.  Ascent  of  the  gate,  see 
144.  —  A  little  farther  up  is  the  Puerta  de  Alare6nes  (PL  D,  3), 


Quarten.  TOLEDO.  9.  RouU.   143 

above  wMeh  is  ihe  M{rad£ro  (PI.  D,  £,  3),  a  promenade  command- 
ing a  beautiful  view.  The  buildings  to  the  £.  of  the  Mirad^ro  oc- 
cupy the  site  of  King  Wamba's  palace. 

From  the  Pnerta  del  Sol  the  Calle  Re&l  del  Arrabal  (PI.  D,  3) 
descends  to  the  N.E.  to  the  old  church  of  Santiago  del  Arrabdl  (PI.  G, 
D,  3),  built  in  the  Mudtfjar  style  in  the  reign  of  Alfonso  YI.,  renewed 
in  the  13th  cent.,  and  partly  modernized  in  the  interior  in  1790. 
It  possesses  a  well-preserved  Moorish  tower.  Farther  on  is  the  PuertAi 
VUagra  Actu&l  (PI.  D,  %  3),  a  double  gateway,  built  in  1550  and 
restored  In  1575.  Its  name  is  probably  derived  f^om  the  Arabic, 
either  from  Bab  Shakra  (red  gate)  or  Bab  Skara  (field-gate).  On 
the  outside  of  the  N.  gate  Is  the  double  eagle  of  Charles  V. ;  on  the 
inside  is  a  statue  of  St.  Antony,  one  of  the  tutelars  of  the  city,  by 
BerrugutU  (or  Monegro),  —  We  next  traverse  the  attractive  Pasio 
de  Madrid  (PI.  G,  D,  2),  or  MercMn^  which  contains  a  few  statues 
of  the  Madrid  'reyes'  (p.  95)  and  commands  an  extensive  view  to 
the  W.  of  the  city-walls  and  the  vega.  At  the  N.  end  of  it  lies  the 
huge  Hospital  de  Ban  Joan  Bantitta  (PI.  D,  1 ;  fee  V2-I  P-)'  gener- 
ally known  as  Hotp,  de  Afuira  ('outside'),  built  by  Bariolomi  de 
Bustamentt  in  1541  et  seq.  The  facade  is  unfinished.  From  the  N. 
side  of  the  fine  PdUo,  which  is  divided  into  two  parts  by  a  colonnade, 
we  pass  through  a  Renaissance  portal  by  Bertugu^U  into  the  Chapel j 
which  is  really  a  large  church  in  the  form  of  a  Latin  cross,  sur- 
mounted by  a  lofty  dome.  Below  the  dome  is  the  monument  of  the 
founder,  Card.  Juan  de  Tavira,  executed  by  Berruguitej  who  died 
at  this  hospital  in  1561.  —  To  the  E.  of  the  hospital  lies  the  suburb 
of  CovaehuekUj  the  houses  of  which  conceal  the  remains  of  a 
Roman  Amphitheatre  (PI.  1 ;  D,  1). 

The  Pvarta  VUagra  Antigua  (PI.  0,  8),  now  closed,  is  an  ancient 
Arab  gate  of  ihe  9th  cent,  and  has  preserved  its  original  form  almost  un- 
altered. It  lies  a  little  to  the  W.  of  the  Visagra  Actuil  and  is  reached 
by  skirting  the  outside  of  the  city-wall.  —  From  this  point  a  broad  road, 
planted  with  trees,  leads  to  the  8.W.  to  the  Puerto  del  Canibron  (p.  147). 
^bove  this  road,  on  the  left,  are  the  Dipuiaeidn  ProvineUd  (PI.  C,  S),  with 
some  remains  of  the  Paiaee  of  the  Bwffoe^  and  the  Boepital  de  Dementes 
(PI.  B,  3,  4),  generally  known  as  El  Ntmcio  and  called  by  Cervantes  the 
Cam  del  Nuncio.  —  Another  road  leads  to  the  W.  from  the  Puerta  Visagra 
Antigua  to  the  Weapon  Factory  (p.  147),  passing  some  insignificant  Roman 
I  (PI.  B,  2,  3),  which  may  be  those  of  a  circus. 


From  the  Puerta  del  Sol  we  now  turn  to  the  S.  W.  and  re-enter 
the  inner  town  by  the  Piwrta  del  Cristo  de  la  Lux  (PI.  2 ;  D,  3).  A 
little  way  up  the  hill  is  the  ermita  of  — 

*S1  Crifto  de  la  Luz  (PI.  D,  3;  fee  to  the  conseije,  who  lives 
in  the  court  to  the  left,  1/2- 1  p.),  a  small  but  interesting  mosque, 
built  in  the  11th  cent,  and  incorporating  some  columns  from  a  more 
ancient  Visigothic  church.  The  front  half,  with  four  columns  and  a 
lofty  yault,  is,  however,  the  only  old  part  of  the  present  structure. 
The  horseshoe  arches,  the  vaulting,  the  arcades  over  the  main  arches, 
the  windows,  and  other  details  all  resemble  those  of  the  mosque  of 


144  RouU9.  TOLEDO.  h.  N.  Quarter^, 

O^rdoYa.  The  name  is  derived  from  a  legend  whicli  relates  how  the 
horee  of  the  Oid,  on  the  entry  of  Alfonso  VI.,  knelt  down  opposite 
the  mosque  and  refused  to  moTe  from  the  spot.  The  wall  opposite 
was  then  opened  and  a  niche  revealed,  containing  a  crucifix  and  a 
lighted  lamp  from  the  original  Yisigothic  church.  The  king  thereupon 
celebrated  in  this  mosque  the  first  mass  said  in  the  conquered  city 
(May  25th,  1086).  —  From  the  court  of  the  church  the  conseije  leads 
us  up  some  steps  to  the  top  of  the  Puerta  dd  Sol  (p.  142),  the  works 
of  which  afford  an  interesting  idea  of  the  art  of  fortification  in  the 
middle  ages.   Wide  view  from  the  flat  roof. 

From  the  Gristo  de  la  Luz  the  steep  Gubsta  be  Gabmelitos 
ascends  to  the  S.W.  to  the  church  of  San  Vicente  Anejo  (PI.  D,  4), 
in  the  small  plazu^Ha  of  that  name.  Adjacent  is  the  Acctdimia  de 
Dihujo  (PI.  G,  D,  4),  or  academy  of  art,  with  a  vestibule  borne  by 
colossal  Ionic  granite  columns.  The  collections  are  unimportant. 
Part  of  the  building  is  occupied  by  the  In$tituto  de  Segunda  Ense- 
nanza^  or  grammar-school. 

Narrow  and  tortuous  lanes  lead  up  and  down  from  the  Plasuela  de 
San  Vicente  to  the  N.W.  to  the  church  of  8anio  Domingo  elReca()f\.  C,  3), 
the  handsome  portico  of  which  is  borne  by  four  columns.  To  the  W.  is 
a  wall  with  bells.  The  interior  is  uninteresting;  but  the  grated  room  to 
the  W.  is  picturesquely  filled  before  9  a.m.  with  the  kneeling  figures  of 
white-robed  Dominican  nana. 

A  few  hundred  yards  to  the  W.  of  the  Art  Academy,  at  No.  9 
Oalle  de  la  Misericordia,  lies  the  *Gafa  de  Meia  (PI.  4,  04;  fee 
72-1  pO)  containing  a  fine  room  in  the  Mud^jar  style  (65  ft.  long, 
23  ft.  wide,  and  40  ft.  high),  with  rich  arabesque  decoration  and  a 
beautiful  artesonido  ceiling.  The  building  probably  dates  from  the 
middle  of  the  15th  century. 

A  little  to  the  W.  is  the  Flazuela  de  Padilla  (PI.  C,  4),  where  stood 
the  house  (torn  down  by  Charles  V.  in  1622)  of  Jwm  de  PadUla^  the  cel- 
ebrated leader  of  the  Comuneros  (p.  63),  and  his  wife  Maria.  —  By  fol- 
lowing the  street  at  the  N.W.  angle  of  this  plaeuela  and  then  taking  the 
first  turning  to  the  right,  we  reach  the  handsome  church  of  Saato  Do- 
mingo el  Antiffvo  (PI.  C,  4),  built  and  adorned  with  sculptures  by  Dom, 
Theotocdpvli. 

To  the  S.E.  of  the  Gasa  de  Mesa  we  reach  the  plazuela  and  church 
of  San  Juan  Bautiata  (PI.  C,  D,  4,  5).  Farther  on  is  the  Post  and 
Telegraph  Office  (PL  C,  D,  6),  whence  we  may  either  descend  to 
the  S.W.  through  the  Galle  de  Alfonso  Doce  and  the  Galle  de  la 
Gampana  to  Santo  Tomi  (p.  145),  or  proceed  to  the  S.E.,  through 
the  Gallej6n  de  Jesus  y  Maria  and  the  Guesta  de  la  Giudad,  to  the 
Flazuela  del  Ayuntamiento  (p.  141). 

0.  Weitem  and  South -Weitem  Quarter!  of  the  City. 

To  reach  the  S.W.  part  of  the  city  from  the  Plazuela  del  Ayunta- 

miento  (p.  141),   we  follow  the  Guesta  de  la  Ciudad,   beginning 

opposite  the  main  entrance  of  the  Ayuntamiento,  then  turn  to  the 

left  into  the  Galle  de  la  Trinidad,  and  follow  it  to  the  Galle  Santo 


e.  Western  Quartert.  TOLEDO.  9,  RouU,    H5 

TomA  (PL  C,  by.  In  a  side-street  off  tko  las',  opposite  each  other, 
stand  the  chorines  of  San  Antonio  de  iWtia,  belonging  to  a  Fran- 
ciscan nunnery,  and  > — 

Sftnto  Tomi  (PI.  C,  5),  originally  a  mosque,  but  rebuilt  in  the 
Gothic  style  in  the  14th  cent,  at  the  cost  of  Count  Orgaz.  The  beauti- 
ful tower,  however,  still  retains  most  of  its  original  character.  In  the 
interior,  to  the  right  of  the  main  entrance,  is  a  celebrated  painting 
by  Domenieo  TheotocdpuU, 8umamed£IE  Oreeo  (p.  IXTiii),  representing 
the  burial  of  Count  Orgiz  (d.  1323)  In  this  church  and  the  mirac- 
ulous appearance  thereat  of  SS.  Augustine  and  Stephen.  Most 
of  the  mourners  are  portraits;  the  sixth  man,  counting  from  the 
right,  is  the  painter  himself.  The  rich  vestments  shown  in  the 
picture  are  still  preserved  in  the  cathedral ;  on  that  of  the  young 
priest  to  the  left  is  depicted  the  Stoning  of  St.  Stephen.  £1  Greco 
painted  the  picture  in  1584  and  received  for  it  24,900  reales.  To 
the  left  of  the  high -altar  is  a  statue  of  Elijah.  —  To  the  S.  of 
St.  Thomas's  lies  the  tree-shaded  Plazuela  del  Conde,  with  the  Pa- 
lacio  del  Conde  de  FuemaUda  (PI.  0,  GO;  now  a  barrack),  in  which 
Charles  Y.  stayed  in  1637  and  his  wife  Isabella  of  Portugal  died. 

Following  the  Calle  de  Santo  Tomtf  and  the  Calle  del  Angel 
towards  the  W.,  we  pass  (to  the  left)  the  Escuela  de  Industrlas 
Artisticas  (p.  146)  and  reach  the  former  Franciscan  convent  and 
ohoroli  of  — 

*8a]i  Juan  de  los  Bsyes  (PL  B,  5;  custodian  at  Santo  Tomtf, 
fee  Vs'l  P* ;  d^-  0^  *^6  N.W.  side).  The  convent  was  founded  in 
1476,  after  the  defeat  of  the  Portuguese  at  Toro,  by  the  *Catholic 
Kings*,  who  meant  It  to  be  their  burial-place.  It  was  dedicated  to 
their  patron-saint  John  the  Baptist.  The  first  architect  was  Juan, 
Quas^  a  Fleming.  After  the  capture  of  Granada  in  1492  and  the 
foundation  of  the  royal  mausoleum  there  (p«  340),  the  chief  object 
of  San  Juan  disappeared  and  the  building  was  protracted  till  the 
17th  century.  Thus  the  edifice,  begun  in  the  late-Gothic  style, 
shows  a  strong  leaning  towards  the  forms  of  the  Renaissance.  The 
chief  portal,  on  the  N.W.  side,  begun  by  Covarrvbias  in  1553, 
already  shows  all  the  symptoms  of  the  decline  of  architecture.  It  is 
adorned  with  several  statues,  a  figure  of  the  Baptist,  and  the  arms 
and  initials  (F  Y  for  Ferdinand  and  Ysabel)  of  the  'reyes'.  On  the 
granite  walls  hang  a  number  of  iron  chains  struck  from  the  limbs  of 
Christian  captives  found  in  Moorish  dungeons. 

The  •Intbbiob,  much  damaged  by  the  French  in  i808,  was 
fitted  up  as  a  parish-church  (San  Martin)^  somewhat  scantily,  in  1840. 
It  consists  of  a  nave,  destitute  of  aisles  but  flanked  with  chapels. 
There  are  only  three  piers  on  each  side,  two  of  which  are  incorporated 
with  the  coro  alto.  The  transept  occupies  the  whole  width  of  the 
nave  and  chapels.  To  the  £.  of  this  is  a  kind  of  shallow  apse,  the 
Capilla  May&r^  with  a  straight  rear-wall.   The  Kenaissance  altar  r 

Baedekkb'b  Spain.  10 


146   R(nde9.  TOLEDO.  c.  Western 

brought  from  the  suppressed  church  of  Santa  Cruz  (p.  142).  —  The 
transept  1$  elaborately  adorned  with  seulptureB  and  ornamentation 
executed  in  white  stone.  Against  the  N.W.  and  S.W.  piers  of  the 
cimborio  are  the  Tribunas  or  ambones  for  the  royal  family.  The 
windows  are  flanked  with  figures  and  canopies.  On  the  walls  are  the 
colossal  coats-of-arms  of  the  ^Reyes^  supported  by  eagles  and  ac- 
companied by  their  badges  and  initials.  Below  is  a  frieze  of  amoretti. 
Long  inscriptions  in  Latin  and  Spanish  refer  to  the  glories  of  the 
royal  founders.  There  are  innumerable  statues  with  canopies  over 
them.  All  kinds  of  heads  protrude  even  from  the  capitals  of  the 
pillars.  The  arabesques  of  the  Alhambra  have,  as  it  were,  been  here 
translated  into  the  plastic  forms  of  Christianity.  The  general  effect  is 
like  ivory  carving  in  stone ;  the  whole  breathes  a  most  liberal  spirit 
of  artistic  life  and  beauty.  —  The  Cupola  over  the  lofty  arches  of  the 
crossing  adds  to  the  impression  of  light  and  space.  —  The  vaulting 
below  the  high  choir,  to  the  S.,  is  painted  with  coats-of-arms. 

The  Convent  J  which  lies  to  the  S.E.  of  the  church,  was  also 
devastated  by  the-  French  in  1808.  In  1846  it  was  fitted  up  as 
the  Mustio  Provincial  (PI.  10;  B,  6).  The  entrance  is  by  door 
No.  33,  above  which  is  sculptured  a  pelican.  The  museum  is  open 
free  on  Sun.  and  holidays,  10-2  j  at  other  times  visitors  ring  (fee 

V2-1  p.). 

Room  I.  Among  the  sculptures  are  the  effigies  from  the  tomb  of 
Diego  Lopez  de  Toledo  and  his  wife  Maria  de  Santa  Cruz,  the  founders  of 
the  convent  of  San  Miguel  de  los  Angeles  (15th  cent.))  bust  of  Card.  Pedro 
Gonzalez  de  Mendoza  (pp.  133,  134),  from  the  Santa  Cruz  Hospital ;  statue 
of  St.  Ildefonso  and  bust  of  Juanelo  Turriane  (p.  142),  by  BerrugmU;  model 
for  the  retablo  of  the  Chapel  of  St.  Ildefonso  (p.  137),  by  Manvel  Francisco 
Alvarez;  plaster  busts  of  PJiilip  V.,  Charles  III.,  and  Charles  IV.  —  Among 
the  pictures  are. a  portrait  of  Torquemada,  the  Grand  Inquisitor^  a  Holy 
Family,  by  Ribera ;  nine  scenes  from  the  Life  of  Christ,  from  the  retablo 
of  the  church  of  Escalona,  by  a  Master  of  the  Flemish  ^hool  (ca.  1500)  ^  &. 
bird's  eye  view  of  Toledo,  by  Lorn.  Theotoedpuli;  and  a  Bearing  of  the 
Cross,  by  Morales.  —  In  the  middle  of  the  room  are  four  Arab  well-heads, 
the  largest  from  the  Al-Djimi'a  (p.  180).  The  cases  contain  th«  missal  of 
Card.  Xim^nez  (1499)  and  two  fine  Limoges  enamels  from  the  cathedral, 
one  representing  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  the  other  the  Betrayal  of 
Christ  (15th  cent.).  —  Otf  the  right  side  of  the  room  are  reproductions  of 
the  ornamentation  of  Santa  Maria  la  Blanca;  wood-carvings  from  the 
Cole^o  de  Santa  Catalina  (Toledo)  and  from  the  Palace  of  Peter  the  Cruel, 
with  Ariabic  inscriptions.  To  the  left  are  collections  of  coins  and  medals 
and  Toledan  blades  of  the  16-17th  centuries.  —  Rooh  II.  Above  the  finely 
carved  Gothic  door  is  a  Reli^^  representing  a  visit  of  the  'Catholic  Kings'* 
to  the  Convent  of  San  Juan  de  los  Reyes.  On  the  walls  are  unimportant 
pictures  and  sculptures. 

The  convent  is  adjoined  by  the  Escuela  de  Induatrias  Artisticas 
(PI.  B,  5),  whence  we  visit  the  recently  restored  ♦Cloistbbs 
(Claustro),  one  of  the  most  brilliant  creations  of  the  Gothic  art  in 
Spain.  The  light  groining  is  formed  by  strongly  marked  intersect- 
ing ribs;  the  windows  are  filled  with  exquisite  tracery;  the  walls 
and  pillars  are  profusely  embellished  with  statues,  pilasters,  and- 
camopies.  A  genuine  piece  of  Moorish  omamentatioDi  from  the  i^up^} 


Quarteri,  TOLEDO.  9.  RouU.    147 

pressed  Couveiito  de  AgUBtiiios  Calzados ,  bas  been  built  into,  tbe 
N.W.  wall.  —  To  the  6.W.  of  the  o^nvent  lies  the  insigitificatit 
Jardin  BoUmUso  (?l,  A ,  51.  —  For  the  adjacent  church  et'  Santa 
Maria  la  BlaneOj  see  p.  148. 

The  height,  upon  which  San  Juan  de  los  Reyes  stands,  affords 
a  wide  Tiew  of  theVega,  the  Siena  de  San  Bernardo,  and  the 
Sierra  de  Giedos  (N.W.).  A  still  more  extensive  view  is  obtadned 
from  the  bare  Ceiro  de  la  Virgm  de  Ordcia  (PI.  B,  4),  a  little  to 
the  N.£. 

Descending  from  San  Juan  de  los  Reyes  towards  the  N.W.,  we 
reach  the  Puerta  dd  Camhrdn  (PI.  A,  4 ;  Hhorn-bush'),  formerly 
named  the  Bdb  al-Makarah,  built  by  Alfonso  VI.  in  1102  and  restor- 
ed in  1576.  The  outside  of  it  bears  a  eoat-of-arms ;  on  the  inside 
is  an  empty  niche  (see  below),  with  an  inscription.  —  In  the  Vega 
Baja,  which  lies  below  the  gate  to  the  N.W.,  is  the  ermita  of  — 

El  Criito  de  la  Vega  (PI.  A>  3),  or  *Christchurch-in-the- 
Fields',  formerly  known  as  the  Basilica  de  Santa  Leoeddia,  The  first 
church  on  this  site  is  said  to  have  been  built  in  the  4th  cent. ,  on 
the  spot  where  St.  Leocadia  sufTered  martyrdom.  This  edifice  was 
enlarged  by  the  Yisigothic  King  Sisebut  (7th  cent.)  and  became  the 
meeting-place  of  several  councils.  Since  its  destruction  by  the 
Moors  the  church  has  been  repeatedly  restored  (last  in  1816),  and  Mr. 
Street  believes  that  no  part  of  it  is  earlier  than  the  12th  century.  We 
approach  it  through  two  small  courts,  one  planted  with  cypresses 
and  the  other  containing  (left)  niches  with  the  tombs  of  the  clergy. 
Over  the  main  entrance  of  the  church  is  a  *  Marble  Statue  of  St. 
Leocadia,  considered  the  masterpiece  of  Berrugitete;  it  is  half  life- 
size  and  originally  stood  in  the  niche  on  the  inner  side  of  the  Puerta 
del  Cambr6n  (see  above).  The  saint  is  buried  in  the  middle  of  the 
church.  Over  the  high-altar  is  a  large  wooden  figure  of  Christ  on 
the  Cross,  the  detached  right  arm  of  which  has  suggested  sev- 
eral romantic  legends^  —  In  the  court  behind  the  house  of  the 
sacristan  are  two  tablets  (let  into  the  wall)  with  Arabic  inscriptions, 
and  two  columns,  the  smaller  of  which  also  bears  an  inscription 
(fee  50  c.). 

On  the  Tagns,  about  »/4  M.  to  the  TS.W.  of  this  point,  lies  the  Govern- 
ment 'Weapon  Ttuetotj  (FdbHca  de  Espddas)^  erected  in  1788  and  now  of 
compavitiTely  little  importance  (visiton  admitted,  8-12  and  1«6).  The 
blikdes  of  Toledo  were  famous  as  far  back  as  the  Roman  period,  and 
Gratius  Faliscus  mentions  the  Toledo  knife  (eulter  tolelanut)  m  his  poem 
on  the  chase.  Under  the  Moors  their  reputation  increased.  The  Armiros 
«k  Toledo  formed  a  raild  by  themselves.  The  finest  blades  (armat  blancas) 
were  made  in  the  iGth  cent.,  and  specimens  of  them  may  he  seen  in  the 
Armerfa  at  Madrid  (p.  96),  the  Estruch  Museum  at  Barcelona  (p.  202), 
and  elsewhere  (comp.  pp.  127, 196).  The  old  Toledo  blades  were  so  elastic 
that  fhey  eould  be  rolled  up  like  a  watch-spring  (comp.  p.  33). 

We  now  return  to  the  Puerta  del  Cambr6n,  and  proceed  thenee 
to  the  S.,  along  the  outside  of  the  city-wall,  to  the  t^ronte  de  Sar 
Martin;   About  halfway,  to  the  left,  is  the  large  Maiadero  Fublv 

10* 


148   RouUB,  TOLEDO.  c.  South- Westfm 

(PI.  A,  4),  or  public  Blaughter-lionse,  whleh  Is  said  to  occupy  tlie 
site  of  the  palace  of  Bodericky  the  'Last  of  the  Goths'. 

On  the  rirer  below  is  the  so-called  B<Mo  de  la  Cava  (PI.  A,  4,  5),  where, 
according  to  the  story,  Florinda  (Arab.  Zoraide),  sumamed  La  Cava,  die 
daughter  of  Goant  Julian,  was  bathing,  when  Bodeiick  saw  her  beauties 
from  the  castle  above.  The  result  jof  his  passion  for  her  was  the  loss  of 
his  kingdom,  as  the  outraged  father  summoned  the  Hoors  to  aid  his  revenge 
X711).  The  so-called  bath  is  really  the  pier  (torredn)  of  a  bridge.  —  In 
the  middle  of  the  town  is  the  so-called  Cueva  de  MercfOea  (PI.  5^  D,  4), 
which  was  said  to  be  connected  with  an  enchanted  palace.  Eoderick 
caused  it  to  be  opened  and  found  within  an  inscription  foretelling  the 
downfall  of  his  throne,  Gomp.  the  'Chronicle  of  Don  Rodrigo'  and  /Seotfg 
•Vision  of  Don  Eoderick\ 

The  imposing  ^Fnente  de  San  Martin  (PI.  A,  5),  which  spans 
the  Tagns  to  the  W.  of  the  town,  was  built  in  1212  and  renewed  in 
1390.  It  consists  of  five  arches,  that  in  the  centre  being  about  100  ft. 
in  height.  Each  end  is  guarded  by  a  gate-tower,  that  to  the  N.  bear- 
ing the  arms  of.  Toledo ,  while  that  to  the  S.  retains  its  interest- 
ing old  doors  and  is  adorned  with  a  statue  of  St.  Julian  by  Berru- 
guete.  The  gorge  of  the  Tagus  here  is  very  imposing.  To  the  right, 
below  the  city- wall,  is  the  Bafio  de  la  Cava  (see  above). 

*A  quaint  story  is  told  of  the  building  of  this  bridge.  The  architect 
whilst  the  work  was  going  on  perceived  tiiat  as  soon  as  the  centres  were 
removed  the  arches  would  fall ,  and  confided  his  grief  to  his  wife.  She 
with  woman's  wit  forthwith  set  fire  to  the  centring,  and  when  the  whole 
fell  together  all  the  world  attributed  the  calamity  to  the  accident  of  the 
fire.  When  the  bridge  had  been  rebuilt  again  she  avowed  her  proceed- 
ing, but  Archbishop  Tenorio.  instead  of  making  her  husband  pay  the  ex> 
penses,  seems  to  have  connned  himself  to  complimenting  him  on  the 
treasure  he  possessed  in  his  wife*  (Btreet). 

Those  unio  have  not  time  to  take  the  whole  walk  recommended  at 
p.  151  should,  at  least,  cross  the  bridge  and  aaoend  to  (10  min.)  I/utttra 
S^Kora  de  le  Cdbiza  (PI.  B,  7),  the  *  View  from  which  should  not  be  missed. 

To  the  S.E.  of  San  Juan  de  los  Reyes  (p.  145)  lay  the  Juderfa^ 
or  old  Jewish  quarter.  The  rich  Jews  ^o  lived  here  erected  a 
castle  to  defend  their  property.  Near  the  site  of  this  castle  stands 
the  church  of  — 

*  Santa  Maria  la  Blanca  (PI.  B,  5 ;  fee  i/2-l  p.)}  ^  building  in 
the  Mud^jar  style,  originally  erected  as  a  synagogue,  probably  in 
the  13th  cent.,  and  converted  into  a  Christian  church  in  1406.  In 
1550  it  was  made  into  an  asylum  for  penitent  Magdalens,  and  in 
1791-98  it  was  used  as  a  barrack  and  storehouse.  It  is  now  under 
the  care  of  the  ComUi6n  de  Monumentos,  which  has  repaired  its 
ravages,  though  partly  in  plaster  only.  —  We  first  enter  a  fore-court, 
with  garden-beds ;  to  the  right  and  left  are  two  very  early  basins, 
used  for  the  washing  of  feet.  The  exterior  of  the  building  is  un- 
pretending. It  consists  of  a  nave  and  double  aisles,  with  three  apses 
added  by  the  Christians.  The  28  horseshoe  arches  are  borne  by 
32  octagonal  piers  and  engaged  piers  in  the  walls.  The  bases 
are  all  in  'azulejo'  work;  the  elaborate  capitals  are  ornamented 
with  pine-apples,  etc.  The  spandxels  are  filled  in  with  charming 
arabesque  patterns.    Above  are  a  rich  frieze  Mid  a  triforium.  The 


Quarien.  TOLEDO.  9.  S&uU.   t49 

flat  eeiling  is  of  lafck.  Tlie  light  enters  by  seven  round  openings  in 
^  side^walls,  and  by  Bmaller  openings  in  the  W.  wall,  which  was 
fonnerly  adjoined  by  the  women's  gallery.  The  tiled  pavement  is 
line.  A  hind  of  eellai-door,  to  the  right  of  the  entrance,  leads  to  a 
erypt  or  vanlt  below  the  chnreh. 

Ck>ntinning  in  the  same  direction  and  crossing  the  Plazuela  del 
Bairio  NmevOf  we  reach  the  — 

*Siafl«og»  d«i  Trinaito  (PL  B,  6 ;  fee  Vrl  pO»  ereeted  about 
1300-66  by  the  Rabbi  Mekr  Abdelf  at  the  expense  of /Somtiet  Levy, 
the  rich  Jewish  treasurer  of  Pedro  the  Cruel  (p.  396),  who  was  altei^ 
wards  executed  by  order  of  his  royal  master.  On  the  expulsion  of  the 
Jews  (1492)  the  'Catholic  Kings'  handed  over  the  building  to  the 
Order  of  Calatrava  and  dedicated  it  to  8an  Benfto,  The  present  name 
seems  to  refer  to  an  old  picture  of  the  death  or  transition  of  the 
Virgin.  The  church,  which  was  restored  in  1896,  has  no  aisles.  Its 
walls  are  elaborately  decorated  with  arabesques  and  friezes,  which  in 
the  delicacy  and  richness  of  their  patterns  are  not  inferior  to  those  of 
the  Alhambra.  A  Hebrew  inscription,  below  the  arms  of  Castile  and 
Leon»  celebrates  the  founder  and  the  kings  of  Spain ;  another  con- 
sists of  extracts  from  the  83rd  and  99th  Psalms.  The  open  ceiling 
is  of  eedar ,  adorned  with  ivory.  The  light  enters  through  small 
grated  windows  (Ajim^ce$)  in  the  upper  part  of  the  walls.  Round 
the  bottom  of  the  walls  runs  an  embedded  arcade,  resting  on  engaged 
columns  with  capitals  of  various  forms.  The  high-altar  occupies  the 
site  of  the  pulpit  whence  the  rabbis  expounded  the  law.  The  paint- 
ings of  the  rotable  are  poor,  but  the  kneeling  knight  is  said  to  be 
the  only  extant  portrait  of  Juan  de  Padilla  (p.  144).  In  front  of  it 
are  the  tombs  of  several  Knights  of  Calatrava. 

The  PasiIo  dbl  Tbansito  (PI.  B,  C,  6)  is  planted  with  trees  and 
affords  Ane  views.  To  the  8.,  high  above  the  Tagus,  rises  the  Car- 
eel  Frovineial  (Pi.  C,  6),  or  provincial  prison,  formerly  the  Cotwento 
de  lo$  Gilitot.  Opposite,  on  the  steep  and  rocky  S.  bank,  is  the 
Ermita  de  Nuesira  Senora  de  la  Cabeza  (p.  151).  Below  is  the  Pena 
Tarpeyaj  from  which  criminals  were  hurled  into  the  ravine. 

We  now  ascend  to  the  N.£.  to  the  Plaza  de  San  Crist6bal  (PI. 
C,  6)  and  to  the  (left)  Tau.^  dri.  Mono  (PI.  C,  6),  a  dilapidated 
building  in  the  street  of  the  same  name,  erected  in  the  middle  of 
the  14th  cent  and  long  the  workshop  (taller)  of  the  masons  employed 
on  the  cathedral  (visitors  ring  at  the  gate ;  fee  Vr^  P-)*  ^^  extant 
remains  consist  of  one  large  central  chamber  and  two  smaller  ones, 
all  richly  decorated  in  the  Mudtfjar  style.  ^-  The  Calle  de  Santa 
Ursula  and  the  CaUe  de  la  Ciud4d  lead  hence  to  the  N.£.  to  the 
Pkuuela  M  4yuntami€mtQ  (p.  141). 

d.  The  Saitem  duarten  of  the  Citj. 
To  the  N.E.  of  the  cathedral  lies  the  small  Plaza  Mayor  (PI.  D, 
4,  &),  also  known  as  the  Plaza  ReAl  or  PUi%a  de  Verduras  (*vegetabl 


ISO  B&uie9.  TOLEDO. 

market"),  the  £.  side  of  vhich  is  iMnnded  by  the  TeeUro  de  Rojaii 
(p.  127\  -^  From  this  plaza  the  narrow  Callb  d«  la  T&iferta  (PU 
D,  E,  5)  leads  to  the  6.  to  the  prison  of  the  Hermanddd  (Fl.  6 ;  D, 
£,  5),  with  aa  interesting  Gothic  portal  of  the  15th  century.  On 
this  are  Bculptured  the  armorial  bearings  of  the  ^Catholic  Kings'  (see 
p.  145),  with  the  figures  of  an  archer  and  an  alguazil  of  the  Her- 
mandad.  We  then  traverse  the  Plazuela  de  San  Jnsto  (PI.  E,  5), 
with  the  church  of  that  name,  and  pursue  the  same  diieetioA  to  the 
Franciscan  nunnery  of  — 

San  Juan  de  la  Penitencia  (Pi.  £,5;  no  admission),  which 
Card.  Xim^nez  built  in  1514,  with  the  partial  ineorporation  of  the 
semi-Moorish  palace  of  the  Pantojas.  It  still  retains  many  interest- 
ing Moorish  ceilings,  corridors,  and  rooms.  The  GHimoH  (entered 
from  the  S.  side ;  fee  50  c.)  exhibits  a  curious  mixture  of  styles. 
The  ceiling  of  the  nave  and  choir  is  Moorish ;  the  portal  and  choir 
windows  are  Gothic;  the  rejas  are  plateresque ;  and  several  of  the 
altars  are  baroque.  On  the  left  side  of  the  choir  is  the  Renaissance 
monument  of  Franeisco  Ruix,  Bishop  of  A-rila  (d.  1528),  shaped  like 
an  altar  and  profusely  adorned  with  figures. 

We  now  retrace  our  steps  and  proceed  to  the  right  through  the 
Cuesta  de  San  Justo  to  the  CorraUUo  de  San  Miguel  (PI.  E,*',  5), 
whence  we  look  down  into  the  deep  ravine  of  the  Tagus.  The  Cuesta 
de  Capu«hinos  leads  hence  to  the  N.W.  to  the  — 

*Alc4zar  (PI.  E,  4,  5),  which  stands  on  the  highest  ground  in 
Toledo.  The  site  was  originally  occupied  by  a  Roman  ^castellum", 
which  the  Visigoths  also  used  as  a  citadel.  After  the  capture  of  the 
city  by  Alfonso  YI.  the  Cid  resided  here  as  'Alcaide'.  Ferdinand  the 
Saint  and  Alfonso  the  Learned  converted  the  castle  into  a  palace, 
which  was  afterwards  enlarged  and  strengthened  by  John  11.,  Ferdi- 
nand and  Isabella,  Charles  V.,  and  Philip  II.  It  was  burned  down 
in  the  War  of  the  Spanish  Successien  (1710),  but  was  restored 
by  Card.  Lorenzaiia  in  1772-75.  The  French  set  fire  to  it  in  IBIO, 
and  in  1867-82  the  building  was  once  more  restored  and  tamed 
into  a  cadet  academy.  In  1887  the  interior  was  gutted  by  a  thivd 
conflagration,  and  since  then  It  has  been  finally  restored.  The  W. 
fa^de,  built  under  the  ^Catholic  Kings',  is  uninteresting;  the  portal 
is  by  CovarrHbias.  The  imposing  S.  facade,  with  its  heavy  rustica 
pila.sters  in  the  Doric  style  and  its  square  comer-turrets,  was  built 
by  Martin  Barrena  from  designs  by  Juan  de  Htfreta,  The  fortress- 
like  E.  facade  dates  from  the  reign  of  Alfonso  the  Learned.  The 
N.  facade,  by  Enrique  de  Egos,  is  eifective  from  its  huge  prQportlone 
and  its  corner-iowers.  The  sculptures  on  the  windows  are  by  B&rru^ 
guetCy  those  of  the  N.  portal  by  Juan  de  Mena.  The  N.  terrace  «o«a^ 
mauds  a  fine  view.  We  thence  enter  the  spacious  ♦Patio,  with  its 
double  arcades  of  Corinthian  «M)3um]>s.  On  the  S.  side  of  the  court 
is  a  handsome  staircase  by  ViLUUpando  and  Hertm'a*  .1^  the  middle 
stands  a  brou/.e  group  after  Pompeo  Leoni  (original  iu.the  Prado  Mu-. 


YALL^GAS.  /a.  £ofK«.   15t 

seam,  p.  88),  representing  Charles  Y.  as  the  conqueror  of  Tunis. 
This  monument  bears  two  inseriptionB :  Quedartf  muerto  en  Africa  6 
eatnrtf  yenced^r  en  Tnnez  (1  shall  stay  In  AfUea  dead,  or  enter 
Tanis  as  a  vietor);  81  en  peMaTeis  caer  mi  caballo  y  mi  estandarte, 
levantad  primero  este  que  i  mi  (if  in  the  battle  you  see  my  horse 
and  standard  fall,  raise  the  latter  before  raising  me). 

The  following  *Walk  ia  recommended  (ca.  IVthr. ;  guide  advisable). 
From  the  Puente  de  San  Martin  (PI.  A,  5  ^  p.  148)  we  uiceiid  to  the  S.E.  bv  the 
road  on  t!ie  left  bank  of  the  Tagns  to  the  ermita  of  Nuestra  Beftera  de  la 
Oabasa  (PI.  B,  7),  which  commands  a  splendid  view  of  the  city  and  of  the 
movotaitts  to  the  8.  We  then  retrace  our  steps  for  a  few  hundred  yards 
and  follow  the  road  descending  into  the  valley  of  the  Cabeza.  Farther  on 
we  ascend  again  and  proceed  along  the  slope  of  the  mountains  to  the 
emita  of  La  Virgm  dU  Valle  (PI.  E,  7«  8).  Hence  we  descend  into  the 
▼alley  of  the  DtaoUdda  (PI.  F,  7),  then  ascaad  and  proceed  towards  the 
K.  to  the  Ca$HUo  de  8am  Servanda  (PI.  F,  S:  p.  142),  above  the  Alcantara 
Bridge  (p.  142). 

About  7  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Toledo  lies  the  UtUe  town  of  OiMKlamiir, 
with  the  castle  of  Pedro  Lope  de  Ayiila  (15th  cent.).  The  Vi!>igothic  crowiw 
mentioned  at  p.  96  were  found  at  Gttarrazar^  near  Guadamiir. 


10.  From  Madrid  to  Saragosia. 

212  IL,  Bailwat  (FtrrocarriUt  d$  Madrid  d  Zaraooza  y  AlieanU)  in 
lOi/s-lS  hra.  (two  trains  daily;  fares  39  p.  25,  30  p.  40,  18  p.  66  c).  An 
express  train  (tren  expreu)^  with  Ist  and  2nd  cla^s  carriages  only,  also 
runs  thrice  weekly  (Mon.,  Wed.,  A  Frid. ;  in  the  reverse  direction,  Tnes., 
.Thurs.,  *  Sati)  firom  Madrid  to  Baredoma  vift  Saraaona  and  Rea9  (eomp. 
BR.  14,  19;  to  Saragossa  8V4  hrs.,  to  Barcelona  WJa  hrs.);  dining  and 
sleeping  cars  are  attached  to  this  train  (berth  in  the  Jatter,  for  first-class 
passengers  only,  23  p. ;  to  Sar^igossa  18  p.  80  c,  from  Saragossa  to  Barcelona 
16  p.  10  c.).  There  are  also  two  local  trains  daily  from  Madrid  to  Ouada- 
lajara  (p.  153).  —  Trains  start  in  Madrid  at  the  JEM'acidn  dd  Mediodia  (p.  52) ; 
in  Saragossa  at  Zaragota-Sepulero  and  Zaragoza-Arrabdl  (p.  163;  express 
from  the  first  only);  and  in  Barcelona  at  the  Etlaeidn  de  Franeia  (p.  194).  — 
DaarACHO  Gsmtbai.  (p.  xvi)  at  Madrid,  Calle  de  Alcaic  14-16^  at  Saragoua^ 
Fonda  del  Universo ;  at  Barcti^na^  Rambla  del  Centro  5.  —  Railwat  Kk- 
8TACJKAMT8  at  Madrid^Owidolajara^  Calatayud,  Casetae,  and  Saroffossa.  — 
Passengers  for  Pampeluna  (p.  175)  or  Miranda  de  Ebro  (R.  12)  change  car- 
riages in  Camku  {p.  158). 

This  railway-journey  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  Spain ^  espe- 
cially the  part  beyond  Medinaceli.  It  is  much  finer  than  the  main  line 
from  Madrid  to  Burgos  vi&  Medina  del  Gampo  (RB.  6, 1).  The  Ebro  valley 
line  from  Saragossa  to  Miranda  is  also  very  attractive.  Travellers  should 
therefore  try  to  select,  either  in  going  or  coming,  the  route  Madrid-Bara- 
gossa-Miranda. 

Madrid  J  see  p.  52.  —  Tlie  train  quits  tlie  Estacion  del  Mediodfa 
and  sweeps  lound  the  high  S.E.  quarters  of  the  city,  with  the  Ob- 
servatory and  the  Buen  Retire  Park.  It  then  intersects  a  chain  of 
marl  hills  and  reaches  — • 

41/2  M.  VaU€ca$,  which  aflfords  an  extensive  view  of  the  treeless 
plateau  of  Castile.  To  the  S.  rises  the  Punto  (p.  276).  The  Cerro  de 
AlmoddvoTj  a  hill  to  the  E.  resembling  a  blunted  cone,  is  said  by 
Willkomm  to  consist  of  meersohanm  (easeoU  01  piedra  loca),  —  7  M 


152  /?©«<«  10.  ALCALA.  From  Madrid 

Vkdlvaro,  in  a  dreary  district  with  large  quarries.  To  [the  left  are 
seen  the  Gnadarrama  Mts.  At  (12  M.)  San  Fernando  j  a  royal  demesne, 
the  train  crosses  the  Jarama  (p.  i23),  which  descends  from  the  N. 
It  then  traverses  the  level  valley  of  this  river  and  intersects  a  range 
of  hills. 

14^2  ^*  Torrej6n  de  Ardo%j  whence  a  diligence  plies  in  summer 
to  (21  M.)  the  baths  of  Loaches  (2130  ft.),  with  a  palace  of  the  Duke 
of  Olivares  (d.  1643).  To  the  right  we  now  see  the  steep  stony  hank 
of  the  HenareSf  a  feeder  of  the  Jarama,  and  soon  reach  a  green  plain, 
studded  with  poplars. 

2IV2M.  AletkLk  de  Henares  (2015  ft]  Fonda  Hidalgo^  Plaza 
Mayor  29),  the  Roman  Compluium  +  and  the  Moorish  al-Ka^ak  (*the 
castle')',  is  an  ancient  town  with  14,700  inhabitants.  It  was  the 
birthplace  of  Cervantes  and  of  Catharine  of  Aragon,  the  first  wife  of 
Henry  VIII.  of  England.  From  1610  to  1836  it  ranked  with  Salamanca 
as  the  seat  of  one  of  the  chief  universities  of  Spain,  attended  in  the 
16th  cent,  by  as  many  as  12,000  students,  and  the  scene  of  the  wild- 
est pranks  of  the  'Estudiantina',  or  undergraduates^  societies.  The  re- 
moval of  the  university  to  Madrid  reduced  the  town  to  a  shadow  of 
its  former  self.  —  In  1614-17  the  celebrated  Folyglot  Bible^  known 
as  the  Complutensian,  was  produced  here  at  great  cost  by  Cardinal 
Xim^nez  (p.  129),  the  founder  of  the  university.  Three  copies  of  it 
were  printed  on  vellum,  one  of  which  is  now  in  Madrid, -the  second 
jin  the  Vatican,  and  the  third  in  the  chateau  of  Chantilly. 

The  chief  building  of  the  town  is  the  Colsoio  de  San  Ildbfonbo, 
in  the  Plaza  May6r,  erected  by  Pedro  Gumiel  and  Bodrigo  Oil  de 
Hontanon  (p.  118)  and  finished  in  1683.  This  was  the  seat  of  the 
university.  The  facade  and  courts  are  fine.  Above  the  entrance  is 
the  inscription:  Olim  lutea  nunc  marmorea  ('Once  of  clay,  now  of 
marble').  From  the  third  court,  named  the  Patio  TrilingOe,  we  enter 
the  ParaninfOj  an  amphitheatre  in  which  the  academical  degrees 
were  conferred.  The  CapUla,  built  by  Gil  de  Hontafion,  contains  a 
fine  reja  in  the  Renaissance  style. 

The  old  Palaoio  Abzobisfal  is  a  fine  edifice  by  Berruguete^  Co- 
varrubiaSj  and  other  architects,  with  large  courts,  handsome  staircases, 
and  artesonado  ceilings.  Since  185B  it  has  been  occupied  by  the 
ArcMvo  HisUSrieo  (open  daily),  containing  a  part  of  the  Spanish 
archives  from  Toledo,  Simancas  (p.  39),  and  other  places. 

Also  in  the  S.W.  part  of  the  town,  near  the  Archiepiscopal  Palace, 
is  the  CoLBGiATA,  a  church  to  which  Pope  Leo  X.  gave  the  right  to 
call  itself  La  Magistral,  It  is  in  the  Gothic  style,  but  has  been  freely 
modernized.  This  church  contains  the  •Marble  Monument  of  Card. 
Xim^nez  (d.  at  Roa  in  1617),  by  Domenico  Fancelli  of  Florence 
(p.  li)  and  Bartolomtf  Ordoflez,  formerly  in  the  Capilla  of  the 
College  of  San  Ildefonso.    At  the  foot  of  the  monument  are  two 


t  Tke  curate  In  ^Don  Quixote*  refers  to  it  m  tbe  great  Comphtto. 


toSatagonu,  GUADALAJARA.  10.  EmOt,   153 

aagels,  ^bearing  the  proud  epitaph.  In  front  of  the  oapilla  may6r 
is  a  line  reja  by  Jnan  Frances.  In  the  crypt  are  the  remains  of  SS. 
Jnstas  and  Pastor^  who  suffered  martyrdom  at  the  ages  of  seven 
and  nine. 

In  the  otherwise  uninteresting  church  of  Sanita  Mairia^  in  the 
Plaza  May6r  (p.  162),  Miguil  Cervantes  was  baptized  on  Oet.  9th, 
1647.  A  house  in  a  narrow  street  near  the  station  bears  the  inscrip- 
tion: Aqui  naeid  Miguel  de  Cervantes  Saavedra,  autor  del  Don 
Quijote.  Por  sn  nombre  y  su  ingenio  pertenece  al  muiido  ciyiJisado, 
poT  su  cuna  Alcala  de  Henares  (afio  de  1840).  It  is  not,  however, 
quite  certain  that  this  was  the  house  in  which  he  was  born.  He  died 
at  Madrid  (comp.  p.  107). 

Beyond  Alcala  the  railway  traverses  a  pleasant  region,  watered 
by  streams  descending  from  the  Guadarrama  Mts.  Beyond  (261/2  M.) 
Meeo  V  e  quit  the  province  of  Madrid.  The  names  of  the  villages 
betoVen  the  former  presence  of  the  Moors.  —  29  M.  Atuqtieca, 

35V2  M.  GuadjJ^axa  (2100  ft. ;  Fonda  del  Norte;  Rail.  Re$tau- 
ranty.  a  city  with  10,900  inhab.,  prettily  situated  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Henares,  is  the  capital  of  a  province  of  the  same  name.  It 
was  the  Arriaca  of  the  Romans  and  the  Wad-al-HadJarah  (Walley  of 
stones')  of  the  Moors,  and  was  taken  from  the  latter  by  Ahar  Yanez 
de  Mmaya  (Arab.  ^Albarhanis'),  the  companion-in-arms  of  the  Cid. 
The  Aqueduct  approaching  the  city  from  the  hill  to  the  £.  is  said  to 
be  of  Roman  origin.  The  church  of  SaiUa  Maria  contains  the  image 
of  the  '  Virgen  de  las  Batallas^  which  Alfonso  VI.  carried  about  with 
him  in  his  campaigns  against  the  Moors.  In  the  church  of  San  OinSs 
18  the  monument  of  Pedro  Hurtado  de  Mendoza  and  his  wife  Juana 
de  Valencia^  Alvar  Yafiez  (see  above)  is  buried  in  the  church  of /San 
Estibajn.  The  chief  life  of  the  place  is  due  to  the  Acad£mia  de  Ingen- 
ieroBj  which  occupies  a  building  erected  by  Philip  V.  for  a  cloth 
factory.  —  The  great  sight  of  Guadalajara  is  the  large  *Palacb  of 
THE  DuQUB  DEL  Infantado,  formerly  the  property  of  the  Mendoza 
family.  It  was  built  in  1461  et  seq.  for  the  Marquis  Diego  Hurtado 
de  Mendoza  by  Juan  and  Enrique  Guas  (p.  145),  and  exhibits  a  fan- 
tastic, yet  picturesque  blending  of  the  Gothic  and  the  Mudejar  styles. 
The  facade  is  very  extensive.  The  elaborate  sculptures  of  the  arcades 
of  the  Patio  repay  a  close  study.  The  Sola  de  los  Linajes  ('geneal- 
ogies'), now  a  storehouse,  has  a  fine  artesonado  ceiling,  adorned 
with  gilding.  The  azulejos,  coats-of-arms,  chimney-pieces,  and  so 
forth  are  still  interesting  in  spite  of  their  dilapidation.  —  Guadala- 
jara possesses  a  pretty  promenade  called  La  Concordia^  and  a  small 
Museo  Provincial.  The  Bridge  over  the  Henares  was  erected  in  1768 
on  Roman  foundations.  —  The  great  Cardinal  Pedro  Gonzalez  de 
Mendoza,  the  'Third  King'  (pp.  133, 134),  died  at  Guadalajara  in  1496. 

From  Guadalajara  a  diligence  runs  in  the  season  (June- Sept.)  in  4  hrs. 
to  Trillo,  a  watering-place  on  the  Tagus,  with  sulphur-springs.  —  A  di^* 
gence  also  pliea  daily  from  Guadalajara  in  9  hrs.  to  Oitenca  (p.  276). 


154   Route  10.  SIGOeNZA.  From  Madrid 

As  the  train  proceeds,  we  approach  the  peaks  of  the  Guadarrama 
range,  with  the  Puerto  de  Somosierra  (4770  ft^,  a  once  mnch-fre- 
quented  pass,  and  the  Cerro  de  la  CeboUera  CGGoO  ft).  The  Henares 
forms  the  E.  boundary  of  the  *Roof  of  Spain^,  the  great  central  pla- 
teau of  Castile  and  Aragon,  the  red  clay  margin  of  which  rises  steeply 
from  the  river,  often  washed  out  and  deeply  funowed. 

41  M.  Fontandr,  amid  olive-groves  and  vineyards.  Farther  on 
are  large  fields  of  grain.  —  43  M.  Yvnquera.  The  eye  wanders  far 
up  the  valley  of  the  Henares.  The  train  keeps  to  the  left,  traversing 
a  bleak  hill-district.  —  49^/2  M.  Humanes.  —  We  cross  the  Henares 
and  its  affluents  (Sorhe^  Albendiego,  etc.)  several  times.  The  vine  is 
much  cultivated.  —  57  M.  Espinoaa, 

65  M.  Jadraque  (2690  ft),  a  small  town  with  1500  inhabitants. 
In  the  distance,  on  a  hill  to  the  right,  is  seen  the  castle  of  the 
Duke  of  Osuna.  —  The  train  soon  leaves  the  fertile  district,  and 
enters  a  desolate  limestone  region,  where  the  rocks  are  sometimes 
of  a  blood-red  colour.  Beyond  (72  M.)  Matillas  the  barren  hills  re- 
semble sand  dunes.  —  At  (76V2  M.)  Baides  the  train  begins  to  as- 
cend towards  the  plateau  separating  the  valley  of  the  Ebro  from  the 
basin  of  the  Henares.  Three  tunnels  penetrate  the  barren  hills, 
which  rise  in  step -like  stages.  Beyond  this  passage  we  enter  a 
grain-growing  district,  almost  destitute  of  trees  and  resembling  th^ 
bed  of  a  lake. 

87  M.  Siguenza  (3220  ft. ;  Hotel  de  la  Estacidn,  D.  3  p.),  an  old 
town  and  bishop'  ssee,  with  4400  inhab.,  prettily  situated  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Henares,  is  said  to  have  been  founded  by  refugees  from 
Saguiitum.  The  ancient  Segontia,  however,  probably  lay  2  M.  to  the 
E.,  on  the  site  of  the  present  Villa  Vieja,  The  highest  point  of  the 
city  is  occupied  by  the  massive  Alcdzar^  now  the  bishop's  palace.  — 
The  Cathedral,  in  the  Plaza  Mayor,  dates  from  the  11 -13th  cent 
and  is  one  of  the  most  important  examples  of  the  late-Romanesque 
Transition  style.  The  main  doorway  in  the  W.  facade  is  round- 
arched.  The  facade  is  flanked  by  two  massive  embattled  towers,  be- 
tween which  is  a  medallion  representing  the  investiture  of  St  Ilde- 
fonso  with  the  chasuble  (casulla;  p.  140).  The  arcades  of  the  interior 
are  borne  by  24  piers,  each  surrounded  by  20  slender  engaged  shafts 
with  foliage-capitals.  The  best  of  the  fine  stained-glass  windows  is 
the  superb  rose-window  in  the  S.  transept.  The  choir  contains  a  good 
SUlerfa  (1490),  and  the  Trascoro  (1685)  is  richly  adorned  with 
marble.  The  high-altar  was  erected  by  Bishop  Mateo  of  Burgos  in 
1613,  and  the  ambulatory  is  also  of  this  period.  In  the  N.  transept 
is  the  Capilla  de  Santa  Librada^  the  tutelar  of  the  diocese,  contain- 
ing the  saint's  tomb  and  a  handsome  altar.  The  dark  Capilla  de  San 
Marcos  contains  an  interesting  triptych  of  the  15th  century.  The 
banners  in  the  Capilla  de  Santa  Catalina  were  captured  from  the 
English  in  1589.  The  other  treasures  of  the  church  include  mon- 
uments, screens,  tapestry,  ecclesiastical  vessels  and  vestments,  and 


10  SofOfOisa.  MEDINAGBLI.  70.  Botile.   155 

a  libniy  with  about  200  MSS.  -—  The  late-Gothic  Cloiatera,  flniahed 
by  Card.  Bernavdo  Oarvajal  in  1507,  also  deserve  a  visit. 

The  altar-piece  of  the  Romanesque  church  of  San  Vicente  is  a 
Virgin  by  Morates,  The  Colei^o  de  SanJeHkUmo  contains  the  tombs 
of  the  Medinaceli  and  a  classical  court 

The  etimate  of  Sig&enza  is  distinctly  northern  in  character,  and 
very  healthy.  The  town  is  provided  with  good  water  by  a  handsome 
aqseduet.  The  left  bank  of  the  Henares  is  bordered  by  pleasant  prom- 
enaded. —  Cervantes  describes  DonQuixote^a  neighbour,  the  learned 
eunta,  as  a  licentiate  of  Siguenza. 

The  railway  now  runs  through  a  flat  and  barren  mountain 
valley  to  (90i/s  M.)  Aloimeta,  a  poor  village  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Henares. 

FJtoii  Alcuvbka  to  Sobia^  641/9  M.,  railway  in  41/4  bra.  (one  train  daily ; 
fares  13  p.  90  c.,  9  p.,  6  p.  40 e.).  —  The  chief  intermediate  station  UAhmatan 
(p.  18),  the  junction  of  the  railway  from  Ariza  tu  ValladoUd  (see  below). 

—  lofia  (34«)  ft.),  titaated  on  a  Ueak  platean  on  the  ri^ht  bank  of  the 
ItaMTo,  is  a  mediseval -looking  town  of  t)600  inbab.  and  the  eapiial  of  a 
province  of  its  own  name.    On  a  hill  about  8  H.  to  the  N.,  at  the  confluence 

,  of  the  Tera  with  the  Duero  and  near  the  present  Qarray^  lay  the  small 
town  of  Numantia^  celebrated  for  its  long  and  heroic  struggles  with  the 
Romans.  It  was  not  till  B.C.  133  that  the  consul  P.  Cornelias  Scipio 
£niiHann«  succeeded  in  taking  and  destroying  it.  —  A  diligence  plies 
from  Soria  to  Ca$UJon  (p.  175). 

Our  line  ascends  gradually  towards  the  £.  to  the  Sierra  Ministra, 
the  waterslied  between  the  Henares  and  the  JalSn^  which  flows  to 
the  N.  to  the  £bro.  It  reaches  its  highest  point  (3670  ft.  above  the 
sea,  1540  ft.  above  Madrid)  in  the  tunnel  of  Homa. 

The  descent  hence  to  Saragossa  (600  ft.  above  the  sea)  is  steady. 
We  are  now  in  the  province  of  Soria,  and  at  first  follow  the  Jal6n. 
The  scenery  is  somewhat  desolate,  but  becomes  more  attractive  as 
we  proceed. 

103  M.  XediiuMeU  (B320  ft.)  was  once  an  important  Moorish 
fortress,  intended  to  eheok  the  advance  of  the  Spaniards  from 
the  N.  It  lies  high  above  the  railway  to  the  left,  and  contains 
the  tombs  of  the  celebrated  Spanish  family  of  Medinaceli  y  de  la 
Cerda,  the  head  of  which  still  claims  to  be  the  legitimate  king  of 
Spain.  —  The  line  now  traverses  a  picturesque  rocky  region  and 
threads  several  tunnels.  Remains  of  old  castles  remind  us  that  this 
was  once  the  highway  between  Castile  and  the  plain  of  the  Ebro. 

—  113  M.  Areas  de  Medinaceli.  The  geological  formation  here  consists 
of  red  argillaceous  slate  overlain  by  white  limestone  and  gypsum, 
the  combinations  being  often  very  grotesque.  11 91/2  Mf-  Santa  Maria 
de  Huerta  is  a  veritable  oasis  in  the  desert.  Farther  on  the  scene  is 
one  of  mountain-desolation,  destitute  of  vegetation  except  at  the 
bottom  of  the  valley,  near  the  river.  The  train  crosses  the  frontier 
of  the  old  kingdom  of  Aragon. 

127  M.  Axisa,  the  junction  of  a  railway  to  Almazan  (p.  18)  and 
ValladoUd  (p.  36;   carriages  changed).      The  little  town,   which 


158     RouU  10.  CASETAS. 

1901/2  M.  Pldsincia  de  Jal6h  lies  in  the  midst  of  the  gieen  river 
valley,  while  to  the  W.  extends  the  desert  mentioned  above.  To 
the  N.,  over  the  valley  of  the  £hro,  rise  the  bleak  monntains  of 
Aragon.  At  (196V2  M.)  OriaSn  the  railway  turns  to  the  S.£.,  almost 
at  right  angles,  and  enters  the  broad  valley  of  the  Ebro,  crossing 
the  Canal  Imperidl  (p.  173)  and  then  the  Jal6n.  To  the  left  run  the 
highroad  and  the  railway  from  Saragossa  to  Navarre.  We  join  the 
latter  at  — 

2O3V2  ^'  Casetas,  where  passengers  for  Miranda  and  Pampeluna 
(R.  12)  change  carriages.  The  two  lines  now  run  parallel  down  the 
Ebro  to  (212  M.)  Saragossa  (p.  163). 


n.  ARAGON  AND  NAVARKE. 


11.  Saragossa 163 

From  Saragossa  to  Cariilena,  173. 

12.  From  Saragossa  to  Castejon  and  Miranda  de  Kbro.    .    .    173 

From  Cortes  to  Borja.  Sierra  de  Honcayo,  174.  —  From 
Tadela  to  Taraxona.  From  Cast«(joii  to  Pampeluna  and 
Alaasua,  175.  —  From  Calahorra  to  ArnedUlo,  177.  — 
Estella.    Xavarrete,  178. 

13.  From  Saiagossa  to  Tardienta  and  L^rida  (Barcelona^    .    178 

From  Tardienta  to  Jaca  vii  Huesca,  179.  —  From  Sarinena 
to  Sigens.    From  Selgaa  to  Barbastro,  180. 

14.  From  Saragossa  to  Rens  (Barcelona^ 180 

From  Pueblo  de  HJijar  to  Alcaniz,  lol. 


While  the  parts  of  N.  Spain  desoribed  in  Section  I  of  this  Hand- 
book show  a  distinctly  'European'  character,  the  traveller  who  visits 
Navarre  and  Aragon  is  met  at  once  by  the  features  of  a  ^semi- African' 
landscape.  Such  are  the  waterless  and  treeless  deserts,  coloured 
like  the  ashes  of  a  volcano ;  the  grey  mountain-tonents  descending 
for  miles  over  stony  and  trackless  wastes ;  the  beautiful  oases  in  the 
depths  of  the  valleys ;  the  parched  villages,  hardly  distinguishable  in 
colour  Irom  the  ground  on  which  they  stand ;  the  snow-clad  peaks 
that  look  down  on  this  chequered  landscape  and  visit  it  with  fre- 
quent tempests  and  thunder-storms.  The  journey  down  the  £bro  to 
the  ancient  dty  of  Saragossa  is  a  remarkable  one,  whether  the  start- 
ing-point be  Miranda  or  Pampeluna.  Still  more  striking  is  the  rail- 
way journey  from  Barcelona,  when  we  cross  the  eoast^mountains  to 
L<^rida,  skirt  the  base  of  the  Pyrenees  in  a  sweeping  curve,  and  then 
run  to  the  S.  to  the  capital  on  the  Ebro.  No  more  startling  contrast 
can  be  imagined  than  that  between  the  luxuriant  vegetation  of  Ca- 
talonia, on  the  seaward  side  of  the  coast-range,  and  the  thirsty  acres 
of  Aragon  and  S.  Navarre,  where  it  used  to  be  said  that  it  was  easier 
for  the  people  to  mix  their  mortar  with  wine  than  with  the  hardly 
won  water  of  the  few  scanty  rivulets.  On  the  one  side,  large  and 
prosperous  seaports,  the  hum  of  industry  and  trade,  the  cheerful  life 
of  the  man  in  touch  with  the  main  stream  of  human  affairs ;  on  the 
other,  loneliness,  isolated  towns  in  widely  separated  oases,  exclus- 
iveness,  melancholy,  bigotry,  and  poverty.  The  versatile  Catalonian 
is  partly  Greek  and  partly  Roman ;  the  Aragonese  is  an  Iberian  pur 
sangy  the  veritable  descendant  of  the  fanatic  defenders  of  Numautia 
and  Calahorra.  The  passage  from  Catalonia  to  Aragon  is  like  passing 
from  Greece  to  Egypt.  The  Ebro  is  by  no  means  unlike  the  Nile, 
and  the  sombre  mood  of  the  inhabitants  recalls  the  pessimism  of  the 
ancient  Egyptians.    In  no  district  of  Spain  has  the  worship  of  the 


160  ARAGON 

Virgm  del  PUar  (p.  167)  taken  root  so  deeply  as  in  Aragon.  Her 
image  is  in  every  hut  and  hangs  in  gold  or  silvei  round  eyeryone's 
neck ;  she  was  the  mighty  Capitana^  under  whose  protection  Sara- 
gossa  placed  herself  in  the  troublous  times  of  1808-9  (p.  165). 

The  former  kingdom  of  Navarra  corresponds  to  the  modern  pro- 
vince of  Navarra  (4056  sq.  M.;  308,000  inhab.),  while  that  of  Arag6n 
includes  the  provinces  of  ZaragosMy  Hueaca,  and  T€ru«2  (18,298  sq.M.; 
922,564  inhab.).  Together  they  occupy  the  basin  of  the  Ebro,  ex- 
tending from  the  Ccmehaa  del  Ebro  (p.  178)  on  the  W.  to  the  much 
more  copious  Segre  and  the  Catalonian  frontier  on  the  E.  The  S. 
province  of  Teruel,  a  comparatively  late  accession,  partakes  of  the 
nature  of  the  Gastilian  plateau;  and  its  waters  gravitate  towards  Va- 
lencia, a  city  that  was  long  connected  with  Aragon. 

The  analogy  between  the  basins  of  the  Ebro  and  the  Guadalqui- 
vir has  long  been  recognized  by  geographers.  There  the 'Great  River* 
flows  between  the  central  plateau  on  the  N.  and  the  Cordillera  of  the 
coast  on  the  S. ;  here  the  Ebro  runs  between  the  same  central  pla- 
teau on  the  S.  and  the  mighty  walls  of  the  Pyrenees  on  the  N. 
There  are  an  Alto  and  Bajo  Arag6n  in  the  N. ,  just  as  there  are  an 
JJfper  and  Lower  Andalusia  in  the  S.  Both  districts  were  once  cov- 
ered by  the  sea,  the  shore  of  which  was  formed  by  the  lofty  edges 
of  the  central  plateau.  While,  however,  Andalusia  rose  gradually 
from  the  waves,  the  basin  of  the  Ebro,  in  spite  of  its  greater  ele- 
vation, long  formed  a  great  inland  salt-lake,  until  at  last  the  water 
forced  its  way  through  the  mountain-barrier  at  Tortosa  (p.  239). 

The  same  range  of  mountains  that  once  formed  the  E.  bound- 
ary of  the  Ebro  lake  now  bars  the  way  of  the  moist  E.  wind  of  the 
Mediterranean  and  thus  causes  the  aridity  from  which  Aragon  suf- 
fers. The  ground  consists  mainly  of  subaqueous  tertiary  forma- 
tions, such  as  marl,  gypsum,  clay,  and  unstratifled  deposits.  All 
of  these  deposits,  and  especially  the  gypsum  and  marl,  contain  large 
quantities  of  salt.  Trees  and  shrubs  do  not  flourish ;  nothing  grows 
on  the  chalky- white,  sun-cracked  soil  except  a  few  scattered,  neu- 
tral-tinted, and  tufted  heath-plants.  The  few  rivulets  that  intersect 
these  deserts  contain  brackish  water.  The  only  habitable  districts 
are  those  in  which  the  salt  has  been  sucked  from  the  soil  by  the 
larger  rivers.  In  these  oases,  however,  almonds,  olives,  flgs,  and 
other  fruit-trees  flourish,  and  many  districts  yield  an  excellent 
wine.  From  the  point  of  view  of  scenery,  Aragon  is  also  very  dreary. 
As  soon  as  we  reach  the  Ebro  basin,  we  see  nothing  but  endless 
tracts  of  barren  grey,  melting  in  the  distance  into  the  blue  of  the 
sky ;  the  vegetation  of  the  deeply  indented  valleys  either  escapes 
the  eye  or  is  visible  on  the  edges  only  in  the  form  of  scanty  groves 
of  evergreen  oaks  and  greyish-green  olives. 

On  the  N.W.  the  Ebro  valley  is  adjoined  by  the  mountainous 
'strict  of  Nayarke,  with  the  fertile  basin  (euenea)  of  Pampeluna, 

'■  beautiful  valleys  of  the  Pyrenees ,  and  the  celebrated  pass  of 


ANI>  NAVARKE.  161 

RoBc«8VAlle«(p.  165).  XoiheE.  of  Navarre  lies  the  mountain-diatrtct 
of  SoBBAKBE,  a  name  of  which  the  interpretation  ia  doubtful.  £veft 
Navarre  was  long  subject  to  the  Prankish  princes,  but  the  Inaccessible 
Sobrarbe  Temained  unconquered  and  shares  with  Asturias  (comp. 
p.  8)  the  glory  of  being  one  of  the  points  of  vantage  from  which 
the  liberation  of  Spain  from  the  Moslems  was  accomplished.  On  the 
N.  this  singular  region  is  protected  by  the  huge  wall  of  the  Pyrenees, 
crossed  by  one  or  two  very  lofty  passes  (puertos)  and  dominated  by 
sharp-pointed  pxuyos  (called  poyos  in  Navarre),  amid  the  recesses 
of  which  lie  sequestered  mountain-lakes  (ibones).  A  little  to  the  S. 
mns  the  AVrra  de  la  Fena,  culmioating  In  the  F«fla  de  OroH  (5770  ft. ) 
and  containing  In  the  convent  of  San  Juan  de  li  Pena  the  resting 
place  of  the  oldest  line  of  the  ralers  of  Aragon.  An  equal  interval 
separates  this  range  from  the  Sierra  de  Pena  de  Santo  Domingo^ 
whi«'h  is  prolonged  towards  the  £.  by  the  Sierra  de  Quara.  These 
last  two  ranges  are  broken  by  the  OdUego^  which  flows  into  the 
Ebro  at  Saragossa,  while  the  Arag&n  skirts  the  W.  side  of  the  Si- 
erra de  la  Pefia  and  joins  the  Ebro  at  Haro  (p.  178).  The  Arag6n, 
which  afterwards  lent  its  name  to  the  kingdom,  is  the  chief  af- 
fluent of  the  Ebro  above  Saragossa,  as  is  borne  witness  to  in  the  old 
distich: 

Arga^  Ega  y  Aragdn  Arga,  Ega,  and  Aragon 

Uaeen  at  Ebro  vartfn.  Make  a  man  of  the  Ebro. 

To  the  E.  of  Sobrarbe  lies  the  isolated  mountain  -  district  of 
RiBAGOBZA.  This  is  the  home  of  the  so-called  Criatianos  Vlejos  y 
Raneio3,  those  genuine  Aragonese  of  the  old  stock,  who,  in  league 
with  the  Cataloni.ins  and  Valencians,'  once  conquered  Naples  and 
Sicily  and  made  their  name  the  terror  of  the  Mediterranean.  At  their 
so-called  rondaUcu,  or  reunions,  they  seldom  ceased  their  boisterous 
scuffling  till  one  or  more  of  their  number  lay  dead  on  the  ground, 
but  at  the  present  day  they  content  themselves  with  contests  in  sing- 
ing and  dancing.  The  Jota  Aragonesaj  one  of  their  national  airs.  Is 
known  far  beyond  the  bounds  of  the  peninsula. 

The  CosTUMB  of  the  men  of  Aragon  is  picturesque  and  peculiar, 
though  that  of  the  women  is  less  striking.  The  men  wear  short  black 
velvet  breeches,  open  at  the  knees,  slashed  at  the  sides,  adorned 
'  with  Innumerable  buttons,  and  showing  white  drawers  below«  The 
stockings  and  alpargatas  (hempen  sandals)  are  black.  The  body  is 
encased  in  a  black  velvet  jacket,  with  slashed  and  many-buttoned 
.sleeves,  while  round  the  waist  is  worn  the  faya,  a  broad  and  gaily 
coloured  sash,  the  folds  of  which  serve  as  pockets.  The  usual  head- 
gear is  a  narrow  silken  kerchief,  leaving  the  top  of  the  head  exposed. 
The  Navarros,  on  the  other  hand,  though  less  frequently  in  the 
'Ribera'  (on  the  Ebro)  than  in  the  'Montana'  (to  the  N.),  prefer  the 
boina  of  the  Basques  (p.  3),  here  usually  called  ehapelgorrf  ('red 
cap')  from  its  favourite  colour.    In  the  colder  season  every  one  is 

Babdkkkk's  Spain.  11 


162  ARAGON  AND  NAVARRE. 

gracefully  enveloped  in  the  folds  of  his  mania,  the  favourite  hues 
of  VFhieh  are  blue  and  white. 

Nothing  in  the  history  of  Aragon  is  more  remarkable  than  the 

80-called  Fueros  de  Solrarbe,  the  Magna  Charta  of  the  Aragonese 

nobles,  -which  carefully  safeguarded  4II  their  privileges  and  reduced 

the  power  of  the  crown  to  a  shadow.    A  special  official  named  El 

Jtisticia  was  appointed  as  guardian  of  these  rights ;  and  an  appeal 

lay  to  bim  from  anyone  who  felt  himself  aggrieved  by  an  act  uf  the 

king.    Among  the  provisions  of  these  fueros  were  the  following: 

No$  que  vaU/nos  ianto  como  vos  y  podemo$  mas  q%te  vo$,  os  elijimoB 

rey  con  tal  que  gardareU  nuesiros  fueroa  y  libertade$j  y  entre  voi  y 

no8  tin  que  matida  mat  que  vot;  eino,  no  I 

(We,  who  count  for  as  much  as  you  and  have  more  power  than 
you,  we  elect  you  as  king  in  order  that  you  may  guard  our  privil- 
eges and  liberties,  and  also  one  between  you  and  us,  who  has 
more  authority  than  you.   If  not,  not!) 

Que  siempre  que  el  rey  queJ^rantaste  sue  fueros,  pudiessen  eliyir  otro 

rey^  encora  que  sea  pagano, 

(If  the  king  should  ever  break  the  fueros,  they  shall  haye  the 
right  to  elect  another  king,  even  if  he  were  a  pagan.) 

All  the  kings  of  Aragon,  including  Charles  V.  and  Philip  II., 
swore  to  observe  the  fueros,  though  breaches  of  the  oath  were  not 
unknown.  The  Rey  Monje,  associated  for  ever  with  the  'Bell  of 
Huesca'  (p.  179),  executed  his  rebellious  nobles  without  troubling 
himself  about  process  of  law.  In  1348  Pedro  IV, ^  surnamed  El  del 
Fundi  (^he  of  the  dagger'),  cut  to  pieces  with  his  dagger  the  parch- 
ment incorporating  the  Vwion,  an  alliance  of  the  nobles  involving 
the  right  of  rebellion  against  the  king.  In  his  haste  he  wounded  his 
own  hand  with  his  dagger  and  contemptuously  exclaimed :  tal  fuero 
satire  de  rey  hnhia  de  costar  ('such  a  charter  must  needs  cost  a  king's 
blood').  In  1591  the  minister  Antonio  Perez  fled  to  Saragossa  to 
appeal  to  the  justiciary  Juan  Lanuta ;  but  Philip  II.  sent  troops  to 
the  city  and  executed  the  justiciary  in  the  open  market-place.  This 
was  followed  by  a  'reign  of  terror',  in  which  even  to  cry  out  'liber- 
tad'  was  to  risk  the  penalty  of  death.  The  seat  of  power  had  whoUyi 
shifted  with  the  lapse  of  time,  and  in  1707  Philip  V.  formally 
abrogated  the  fueros.  In  Saragossa  the  last  defenders  of  the  privil- 
eges are  commemorated  by  names  like  the  Calle  de  Lanuza  and  the 
Plaza  del  Justicia. 


O'  fj  urn|ili  Xm^L  t.  VVaguiH'  i-DpIj?  » ,  I-ft  tp  ;k  it 


163 


11.  Saragossa. 


maawfty  BUttMit.  1.  Ettaeidn  del  SeMikro  or  d$  Madrid  (PI.  A,  8  ( 
re«Ufiraiit),  in  the  W.  part  of  the  town,  for  the  traini  to  Madrid  (B.  10) 
and  for  the  line  to  Barcelona  via  Reua  (RR.  14, 19  a).  —  2.  Xttatidn  del  Ar- 
rabal  or  del  Norte  (PI.  E,  1 ;  restaurant),  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Ebro,  in 
the  suburb  of  Altavas,  for  the  lines  vift  Gutcjon  to  Miranda  de  Ebro  and 
to  Pampeluna  and  Alsasna  (R.  12)  and  for  the  line  to  Barcelona  vi&  L^rida 
(RR.  18, 17).  These  two  stations  are  connected  by  a  loop-line.  —  3.  Etta- 
eidn de  Carmma  (PI.  A,  4),  in  the  8.W.  part  of  the  town,  for  the  local 
railway  to  Carinena  <p.  ITaD.  ~  Dxspacho  OawTHiL  (oomp.  p.  xvi)  at  the 
Hdtel  Caatro  Kaelones,  Galle  de  Don  Jaime  Primero.  Oimti^ue  Cfenerdl 
from  all  trains  (60  c,  each  trunk  90  c). 

Hotala  (comp.  p.  xz).  *Hotel  de  lab  Coatko  Kacxonbs  t  del  Umi- 
TEBso  (Fl.  a;  I>,8),  Calle  de  Don  Jaime  Primero  52,  in  the  centre  of  the 
town  (rooms  facing  the  eonrt  undesirable);  Hot.  ds  Edkopa  (PI.  b^  D,  3), 
Plaza  de  la  Constitucidn  8,  in  a  pleasant  open  situation ,  but  rather  hot  in 
summer;  pens,  at  these  two  8-10  p.  —  Fomda  de  EspaSa,  Calle  de  San 
Miguel  7  (PUD, 8, 4);  Pohda  de  Pabis  (PI.  d;  D,  8),  Calle  de  Don  Jaime 
Primero  44;  these  two  unpretending.  —  Om«  dt  Eii4af«das  (p.  xz); 
Enrique  Fandoty  Calle  de  Don  Jaime  Primero  54. 

Oafte  (comp.  p.  xxii).  Cqfi  Suizo,  AnUfoe  Mundot,  IHria^  Matoeei,  aU  in 
the  Calle  de  la  Independencia ;  C^fi  de  JParie^  in  the  W.  part  of  the  Coso; 
Ce^f4  de  Eurepa  (see  above),  Oambrinue,  Plaza  de  la  Constituci6n.  The 
Gamaeha^  a  sweet  light-red  wine  of  Cariiiena  (p.  178),  is  worth  a  trial. 
—  Oanfeetiontr  ( CenJIteria) :  Cqfi  dd  Bnen  Gusto  (E.  Molins),  Calle  del 
Coso  23  and  Calle  de  Alfonso  Primero  2. 

Restauraats.  Cetfi  de  Europa,  S6t.  de  ku  Cualro  Nacionee.  see  above  | 
neetemramt  de  Framcta,  (3alle  de  Bst^anee  81  and  Calle  de  Mendes  Nu- 
neaSe. 

Vaat  ft  Tfli«Mph  Ottaa  {C9rr»  9  T^UgreifQ;  Fl.  D,  3),  OaUe  de  la 
Independencia. 

Shops*  Models  of  the  Virgen  del  Pilar  and  other  objects  in  gold  and 
silver  may  be  boueht  in  the  CalU  de  la  Manl/eetacidn  (PI.  D,  2),  formerly 
the  Flaleria  (p.  170).  •>  Bookseller:  CeeiUo  Gaeea,  Plaza  de  la  Seo  2. 

BaidBan:  Mucemrna  del  Bemeo  de  E»pa§Ut  (PI.  D,  9).  Calle  del  Coso  67. 
~  JUmej  Ghaagen:  GuiUen  Bermamoe^  Calle  de  las  Escuclas  Plas  7;  Yi* 
cente  Ferrer,  Calle  del  Alfonso  Primero  3. 

American  Xission  Church,  Calle  San  Pablo  88. 

Baths  (Caeae  de  BaMoe),  Calle  de  la  Independencia  26  and  Plasa  de  la 
Constltucidn  5. 

Oabs.  One-horse  cab  with  two  seats  per  drive  (carrera)  '/i^  with  three 
seats  1  p.,  at  night  fl2*6)  2  p.;  per  hr.  (hora)  li/s  or  2  p.;  two-horse  cabs 
few  1-4  pen.  I'/t,  2>/s,  8,  4  p.  These  fares  refer  to  the  inner  town,  includ- 
ing the  railway-stations,  the  Aljaferia,  and  the  Arrabal.  —  Oarriaget 
(Carrvajee  de  ImJo)  may  be  hired  of  Joei  Sola,  Plaza  de  Santa  Marta  7. 

Omnibus  to  Ca$a  Blanca  (p.  173)  40  c,  to  Torrero  (p.  172)  15  c,  to  the 
Plata  de  Toroe  (see  below;  on  days  of  bnll-flghts  only)  50c. 

Tvamway*  to  the  Rafheof  Btatione,  to  Torrero  (p.  172),  and  round  the 
Paeeoe  of  ttie  inner  town  (Traneia  de  Circtmoakteion). 

ThaatrMU  Teatro  principal  (PI.  D,  8),  Calle  de  Don  Jaime  Primero; 
T.  de  PignateUi  (PI.  C,  4),  Calle  de  la  Independencia;  T.  Circo  (PI.  D,  3,  4), 
Calle  de  San  Miguel.  —  BuU  Ring  {Plata  de  Toroe;  PI.  B,  2,  8),  Calle  de 
PignateUi ;  corridas  in  Aug.  and  on  Oct.  13th  and  14th  (see  below). 

Pestivals.  The  chief  festa  is  that  of  Oct.  22th,  when  the  Virgen  del 
Pilar  appeared  to  St.  James  (p.  167).  The  bull-fights  are  held  on  the 
following  daysu  At  this  time  Saragosea  is  thronged  by  pious  pilgrims.  — 
On  June  24th  and  29th  popular  festivals  are  held  at  the  Casa  Blanca  (p.  173). 


164   RouUll,  SARAGOSSA.  SUuaiion. 

Oittribution  of  Time.  The  two  caUiedsals  are  open  all  day.  The 
other  sights  are  shown  aftei*  notice  gives,  aact  for  the  Aljaferia  a  special 
permission  is  necessary.  The  .chief  attractions  of  Saragossa  are  ifts  aitaa- 
fion,  the  quaint  picturesqueness  of  the  old  town,  and  itsJS.  environs., -r- 
Those  who  cannot  spend  more  than  IVz  day  in  San^ossa  should  devote 
the  first  day  to  the  Cathedrals  (pp.  166,  i6<),  the  Lonja  (p.  166),  tlie  Cos^ 
de  Zaporta  (p.  169),  the  Audiencia  (p.  170),  and  a  walk  through  the  Calle 
de  la  Independencia  to  JSanta  Engraeia  (p.  172).  On  the  next  day  they 
may  drive  to  the  Torrero  (p.  172),  returning  via  the  Cata  Blanca  (p.  175) 
and  the  Alja/eria  (p.  171). 

Saragossa,  Span.  Zaragoza  (600  ft.),  with  71,700  inhab.,  the  cap- 
ital of  a  province  of  its  own  name,  and  the  seat  of  a  university,  an 
Audiencia,  an  archbishop,  the  captain-general  of  Ara^6n,  and  other  of- 
ficials, is  the  central  point  of  the  £bro  basin,  just  as  Seville  is  the 
focus  of  the  valley  of  the  Guadalquivir.  Though  situated  in  the  midst 
of  a  desert  (p.  159),  the  immediate  sunbundings  of  the  city  form  a 
fruitful  Huerta,  watered  by  the  Canal  Imperial  (p.  173),  the  £bro, 
the  Huerva,  and  the  GNtllego.  A  striking  view  is  obtained  of  the 
great  plain  of  Aragon,  backed  by  the  snow-capped  summits  of  the 
Pyrenees.  The  historical  associations  of  Saragossa  are  more  inter-, 
esting  than  those  of  either  Valencia  or  Seville,  and  it  yields  the  palm 
to  Granada  alone  in  significance  for  the  cultivated  visitor. 

The  Olimatb  (comp.  p.  160)  is  comparatively  mild,  and  the 
winters,  in  spite  of  the  higher  latitude,  are  less  cold  than  those  of 
Upper  Andalusia.  The  summer^  however,  is  quite  as  warm  as  that 
of  Lower  Andalusia.  The  cold  W.  wind  is  known  here  as  Cierno^  tiie 
Warm  £.  wind  as  Bochomo  (whence  the  n^mA  aboehomado^  meaning 
parched).  The  CcuteUano,  blowing  from  the  heights  of'  the  Castilian 
plateau,  is  cold  in  winter  and  hot  in  summer.  The  N.  wind  is  called 
Solano,  The  most  charming  season  in  Saragossa  is  April  and  May, 
when  the  wheat- fields  are  waving  in  full  luxuriance. and  the  night- 
ingales are  piping  among  the  willows  on  the  river.  The  city  is  Sur- 
rounded by  country-houses,  known  here,  as  at  Barcelona,  as  torres. 
The  construction  of  the  Canal  Imperial  aloiig  the  height  to  the  S. 
has  led  io  the  erection  of  many  mills  and  fatitories.  On  every  side 
water-courses  are  seen  running  through  the  gardens  and  fields. 

Since  the  opening  of  the  four  railways  Saragossa  has  been  mak- 
ing steady  progress.  The  ancient  nucleus  of  the  city,  with  the 
curious  'solares'  of  the  noblesse  and  patricians,  in  which  each  house 
was  a  fortress,  has  been  maintained  almost  unchanged.  All  round, 
however,  new  streets  have  been  constructed;  and  the  scene  of  the 
bloody  contests  for  which  Saragossa.  is  famed  is  now  ocoopiedby  the 
finest  quarter  of  the  city.  Thus  the  Saragossa  of  to-day  may  daimte 
show  at  once  the  characteristics  of  the  oldest  and  th«  newest  of 
Spanish  cities. 

The  History  of  Saragossa,  the  Iberian  Saidvba^  begins  with  tlie  l^m^ 
peror  Augustus,  who  recognized  its  advantageous  position. in  the  centre  6t 
the  Ebro  basin,  with  the  Gi^llego  flowing  to  the  K.  and  the  Huerva  and^ 
Jal(5n  flowing  southwards  towards  the  central  plateau.  He  accordingly 
recognized  it  as  the  Colonia  Gaetar-Angittta  (whence  its  present  name)  and 
ibade  it  the  seat  of  a  ^convtntus  juridicus'  (p.  231):     [bome  scanty  traces 


Hittory.  SARAG08SA.  //.  RouU.    165 

of  tbe  old  Bomaii  wtllB  are  prMerted  4t  tbe  Convento  del  Sepulcro:  PI. 
E,  2,  8.1  Tbe  Saevi,  under  Bechiar,  captiued  the  town  in  4o2,  and  tlie 
Vifligoths  took  it  in  476.  It  was  the  first  city  in  the  peninsula  to  reject 
the  AHaa  hereby,  and  in  538  it  offered  an  obstinate  resistance  to  the 
Franks  under  Cbildebert  and  Lothaire  II.  When  the  Moors  overran  the  pen- 
insula, £faraetula  fell  to  the  share  of  the  Berbers.  In  777  their  Bheikb, 
BtOtimAm  si^^JroM,  Viceroy  of  Barcelona,  sent  messengerfl  to  Paderbom  to 
nsk  Charlemagne  to  come  to  their  aid  agiiinat  the  Emir  'Abderrahmia  I. 
of  Cordova  (p.  906\  Charlemagne  responded  to  the  invitation,  bat  the 
undertaking  waa  entirely  unsuceessfal.  A  rising  of  the  Saxons  forced  the 
aerman  nonardi  to  raise  the  siege  of  Steagossa,  and  in  recroasing  the 
Pyrenees  he  lost  a  large  part  of  his  army  at  tbe  famous  pass  of  Roncts- 
vdttes.  In  1118  At/onto  I.  of  Aragon  (el  Batatlador)  succeeded  in  taking 
Saragossa  from  the  Moors  after  a  war  that  lasted  five  years  and  a  siege 
thftt  lasted  nine  raontlti.  The  city  then  became  the  capital  of  Aragoa. 
but  it  lost  much  of  its  importance  through  the  marriage  of  Ferdinana 
a^d  Isabella  and  the  removal  of  the  royal  residence  to  tbe  more  central 
C  stile.  In  the  War  of  tbe  Spanish  Succession  the  English  under  Stan- 
hope defeated  the  French  here  (Aug.  20tb,  1710),  but  it  was  too  late  to 
make  good  the  disastrous  battle  ofAliuansa  (p.  278).  —  Saragossa  attained 
the  pinnacle  of  its  fame  in  the  Spanish  War  of  Liberation,  when  the  un- 
fortified town  defended  itself  for  months  against  the  army  of  Fr.>nce  under 
four  mvshalH,  and  succumbed  at  last,  like  Oerona  (p.  1^),  rather  to  fam- 
ine and  pestilence  than  to  the  arms  of  its  besiegers.  Then  it  was  tiiat  its 
hr^ve  defenders  coined  the  famous  phra-ses  guerra  al  euchillo  (Var  to  the 
kftifel  and  katUt  la  ^Hma  lapia  (Ho  the  Ia<>t  wall").  The  courageous  *Maid 
of  Sarafosaa^  is  known  to  all  from  the  glowing  stanras  of  Byron's  ^ChiMe 
Harold'  (I.  54  et  seq.)  and  by  the  numerous  pictures  of  her,  based  on 
Wilkie's  portrait,  that  were  scattered  broadcast  over  Europe. 

The  «*oryof  the  famous  Dsfencb  of  Saragossa  is  as  follows.  On 
M  7  95th,  180S,  the  citizens  of  Saragossa,  inspired  by  the  rising  of  the 
D^fl  de  Mayo  (p.  67),  orgaaixed  themselves  for  resistance  to  the  Frenoh, 
under  leaders  ha<'tily  elected  for  the  purpose.  The  nominal  chief  of  theae 
W'as  Z>o»  Jot^  Ptdafox^  a  courageous  but  otherwise  inefficient  young  roble- 
nan,  who  was  a  native  of  the  city.  By  his  side  stood  SmMagh  8at^  a 
priest  who  bad  great  influence  with  the  masacs,  and  the  popular  ^Tic^  Jorge 
Jbort  ('Uncle  George"),  with  his  two  peasant  lieutenants,  Mcariano  Cerezo 
and  Tio  Marin.  Their  total  means  of  defence  consisted  at  first  of  220  men, 
1(K)  daroe,  a  few  anti<iuated  muskets,  and  16  cannon.  Mirsbal  Lefebvre 
began  the  siege  oi  June  16th,  1806,  but  had  to  abandon  it  on  Aag.  15th 
in  consequence  of  the  catastrophe  of  Baile'n  (p.  302).  In  December  the 
city  was  again  in^e^ted  by  a  French  army  of  18,000  men;  its  fortifications 
eoasicted  of  a  wall  10-12  ft.  high  and  8  ft.  thick.  The  citizens  bad  further- 
more neglected  to  enclose  in  their  lines  the  Jesuit  convent  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Ebro  and  the  high-lying  Torrero  (p.  172).  The  siege  began 
on  l>ee.  21st,  1806,  and  lasted,  under  the  conduct  of  four  Marshals  of 
France  (Lannes,  Mortier,  Moncey,  and  Jnnot),  till  Feb.  20fb,  1809.  The 
French  at  last  penetrated  the  line;  of  the  defence  near  the  convent  of 
Santa  Bngracta  (p.  172);  but  erery  house  had  to  be  captured  separately, 
and  their  losses  wero  tenrlMe.  Similar  hard-fought  contests  went  on  on  the 
W.,  near  the  Portillo  (p.  171),  and  on  the  E.,  round  the  Pnerta.  del  So). 
It  was  not  till  after  three  weeks  of  this  street-fighting  that  the  ^Testarudos 
Aragotieses\  whoj^e  heads  were  said  to  be  hard  enough  to  drive  a  nail, 
were  finally  forced  to  surrender.  Since  then  Saragossa  has  proudly  and 
justly  borne  the  title  of  dempre  herdica. 

Tbe  *Pii«iite  do  Piedrs  (Pi.  E,  2),  a  stone  bridge  of  seven 
•nhes,  connects  ihe  old  town  with  the  N.  snhnrb  of  Arrahdl  or  Al- 
taods.  It  dates  from  1447,  and  its  main  arch  has  a  span  of  128  T 
It  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  ctty,  with  its  two  cathedrals,  and 
the  river  lip  ito  the  railway-bridge.    On  the  ]rigbt  bank  the  wh 


1^6   Route  J 1,  SARAGOSSA.  La  8eo, 

river-front  of  the  city  Is  occupied  by  the  PasSo  dd  Ebro^  a  series  of 
wide  quays  affording  excellent  views. 

Entering  the  old  town  by  the  former  Piierta  del  Angel  (PI.  E,  2), 
we  have  the  Seminario  Conciliar  (priests'  seminary)  and  the  PalcLcio 
AnobUpal  to  the  left  and  the  Cam  de  Ayuniamimio  and  the  Lonja  to 
the  right. 

The  *L0]ga  (PL  D,  E,  2),  or  Exchange,  completed  in  1561,  is 
a  handsome  Renaissance  bnildlng,  with  a  leaning  towards  the  pic- 
turesque plateresque  style.  The  principal  facade,  rising  in  three 
stages,  with  a  mezzanine,  is  turned  towards  the  Calle  de  la  Lonja. 
The  bold  overhanging  cornice  is  attractively  adorned  with  enriched 
mouldings,  coffered  soffits,  and  Doric  mutules.  The  unpleasing 
corner-turrets  were  probably  later  additions. 

The  *Intebiob  fadm.  on  application  at  the  town-hall;  fee  50  c.)  con- 
sists of  one  great  hall,  roofed  with  Gothic  groining  and  divided  into  three 
aisles  by  rows- of  Ionic  columns,  to  which  pilasters  on  the  walls  correspond. 
Over  the  capitals  are  coats-of-arms  with  eagles  or  angels  as  supporters. 
Round  each  colamn,  about  12  ft.  from  the  ground,  runs  a  fantastic  frieze, 
with  curious  masks,  monftsrs,  and  the  like. 

In  the  Plaza  de  la  Seo  rises  the  venerable  Gothic  cathedral  of  *La 
Seo  (i.e,  sedes  or  see;  PI.  £,2,  3),  dedicated  to  the  Saviour  and 
erected  in  1119-1620  on  the  site  of  the  principal  mosque  of  the 
Moors.  The  axis  of  this  large,  quadrangular,  somewhat  amor- 
phous building  runs  from  S.W.  to  N.E.  The  ordinary  entrance  is  the 
large  N.W.  portal  in  the  Plaza  de  la  Seo,  erected  by  Jidian  Yar%a 
In.  1683.  Adjoining  this  rises  the  octagonal  Towef.,  built  by  Juan 
BaxUUta  ContirU  in  16S6  and  consisting  of  four  stages.  The  upp^ 
part  was  injured  by  lightning  in  1860.  The  ascent  (208  steps)  is 
not  recommended. 

The  principal  entrance  is  on  the  S.W.  side,  in  the  small  Calle 
de  la  Pabostria.  This  leads  into  the  Pavorderfa^  oi  vestibule,  built 
by  the  Moor  Al-Rami  in  1498  and  covered  with  fine  Gothic  vault- 
ing, with  large  brazeii  rosettes.  The  corbels  and  rosettes  are  adorned 
with  charming  figures  of  angels  and  with  lambs  carrying  banners. 
The  Main  Portal  itself,  with  its  beautiful  sculptures,  is  largely  con- 
cealed by  unsightly  wooden  doors. 

The  Intebiob,  almost  square  in  plan,  is  somewhat  dark,  being 
practically  dependent  for  light  on  eleven  small  round  openings  in  the 
N.*W.  wall.  It  has  double  aisles  and  a  rectangular  choir;  the  N.W. 
and  S.E.  sides  are  flanked  with  chapels.  The  general  arrangement  of 
the  spacious  building  resembles  that  of  a  Moorish  mosque ;  and  it  is  a 
little  difflcult,  especially  in  entering  from  the  N.W.,  to  find  one's 
bearings,  as  many  members  are  inorganically  displaced,  as  in  the 
mosque  of  Cordova.  Thus  the  cimborio  does  not  rise  above  the  crossing 
but  farther  to  the  S.E.  Th6  slender  pillars  are  surmounted  by  elab- 
orately sculptured  capitals,  and  the  vaulting  is  adorned  witJi  gilded 
borders  of  somewhat  heavy  bosses  by  the  Moor  Musa  (1482).  The 


LaSeo.  SARA00S9A.  11.  Route.   167 

niarble  flooriug,  of  &  later  period,  is  articulated  by  brown  and  red 
stripes  corresponding  to  the  ribs  and  bosses  of  the  groining  aboTe. 

The  Caro  contains  a  magniflcent  reja,  a  silleria  with  68  italls  and 
the  archbishop's  throne,  a  large  faeialol  or  reading-desk,  and  22 
colossal  eholr-books.  The  TroMcro,  by  TudeliUa  de  Torosona  (1638), 
is  adorned  with  statues  of  SS.  Lawrence  and  Vincent.  In  the  middle 
of  it  is  a  TabemaeU  with  black  and  white  twisted  columns,  mark- 
ing the  spot  where  the  'Crislo  de  U  Seo*  spoke  to  Fune$,  one  of  the 
canons  of  the  cathedral. 

The  retablo  of  the  high-altai,  with  its  representations  of  scenes 
from  the  li^es  of  Christ  and  the  Saints,  is  by  Dalmau  de  Hut  (1466). 
At  the  sides  are  the  Transfiguration  and  Ascension  by  Ftdro  Juan 
de  Tana$(ma,  A^acent  are  the  sedilia  of  the  officiating  clergy  and 
the  tombs  of  seYeial  ssembers  of  the  royal  house  of  Aragon. 

The  octagonal  cimborio,  originally  erected  by  Archbp.  Pedro  de 
Luna  (d.  1382),  was  restored  by  Enrique  de  Egaa  In  1606-20.  Fer- 
dinand the  Catholic  was  baptized  below  it  in  1466. 

Most  of  the  side-chapels  are  uninteresting.  The  *CapiUa  de 
San  Bernardo^  to  the  left  of  the  S.W.  portal,  contains  the  handsome 
monument  of  Archbp.  Fernando,  grandson  of  Ferdinand  the  Catholic, 
and  also  that  of  Ana  Gurrea,  his  mother,  both  by  Diego  Moflanee 
(16th  cent).  The  marble  relief  of  the  Last  Judgment,  in  the  same 
chapel,  is  ascribed  to  Beeerra.  —  Gabriel  Zaporta  (d.  1679 ;  comp. 
p.  169)  is  buried  in  the  CapiUa  de  San  Miguel.  —  The  Capilla  de 
Maria  la  Blanea  contains  the  tombs  of  several  prelates.  Its  builder 
was  Pedro  Arbuts  (p.  167),  the  notorious  inquisitor,  who  was  mur- 
dered by  Vidai  Durant  below  the  crossing  of  this  cathedral  in 
1486,  and  is  buried  here  under  a  baldachino  with  spiral  columns. 
He  was  beatified  in  1664  and  raised  to  the  honour  of  full  saintship 
by  Pius  IX.  in  1867.   His  kneeling  figure  is  by  Jo$£  Ramiret, 

The  Saerieifay  entered  by  a  handsome  doorway,  contains  several 
ternos  (embroidered  vestments) ;  a  chasuble  with  a  representation 
of  Adam  and  Eve,  brought  from  Old  St.  Paul's  at  London ;  a  chalice 
of  1666;  and  a  beautiful  silver  *Cuslodta  of  1637,  on  which  the 
King  of  Aragon  swore  to  observe  the  fueros.  —  In  the  adjoining  Sola 
Capitular  are  paintings  by  Ribera  and  Zurbaran,  The  tiled  floor- 
ing was  executed  at  Valencia  in  the  beginning  of  the  19th  century. 

The  next  step  of  the  traveller  should  be  a  visit  to  the  Yirgea 
del  Pilar  (PL  D,  2),  the  second  cathedral  of  Saragossa,  the  coloured 
^azulejo*  domes  of  which  rise  picturesquely  over  the  waters  of  the 
Ebro  and  the  trees  of  the  Plaza  del  Pilar.  It  possesses  the  great 
magnet  of  the  pilgrims  to  Saragossa  in  the  shape  of  the  sacred  pillar 
(eolumna  immobilie)  on  which  the  Holy  Virgin  appeared  to  St.  James 
on  Oct.  12th  when  ou  his  missionary  journey  through  Spain.  The 
shrine  containing  it  is  always  surrounded  by  kneeling  worshippers, 
and  a  specially  elaborate  celebration  is  held  on  Feb.  22nd.  —  The 


168   Bouttll.  SARAGOSSA.  Virgen  del  PUar. 

original  building  on  this  site  vas  merely  a  small  chapel  of  the  Virgin, 
which  was  afterwards  sarronnded  by  a  series  of  cloisters  and  chapel». 
The  present  cathedral,  which  is  436  ft.  long  and  220  ft.  wide,  was 
begun  in  1681  by  Francisco  Herrera  (el  Moto)  In  the  style  of  the 
cathedral  of  Valladolid  (p.  37),  and  was  continued  by  Ventura  Ro- 
diiguez  in  1753  et  seq.  It  was  completed,  except  for  three  still  lack- 
ing corner  towers,  within  the  present  century. 

The  Intbhios,  entered  by  four  unimposing  doorways.  Is  a  rect- 
angle, divided  into  nave  and  aisles  by  two  rows  of  columns  and 
fringed  all  the  way  round  by  a  series  of  chapels.  To  the  W.  is  the 
cathedral,  including  the  choir  and  high-altar  and  embracing  about 
three-fifths  of  the  whole;  to  the  E.  is  a  second  church,  the  high- 
altar  of  which  is  represented  by  the  chapel  of  the  Virgin  at  the  W. 
end.  The  two  high-altars  thus  stand  back  to  bach.  Above  the  aisles 
rise  the  small  cupolas,  gay  with  coloured  tiles  (^azulejos');  the  cen- 
tral dome,  untiled,  is  above  the  high-altar,  while  a  still  larger  dome 
covers  the  chapel  of  the  Virgin. 

The  VT.  church  contains  the  old  Ooro,  with  the  handsome  silleria 
by  Giovanni  Moreio  of  Florence  (1642),  consisting  of  115  stalls  ar- 
ranged in  three  rows.  The  admirable  reja  is  by  Jtum  Celma  (1574). 
The  *High  Altar,  in  the  Gothic  style,  is  made  of  alabaster  firom  the 
quarries  of  Escatron  (p.  181)  and  was  executed  by  Damian  Forment 
(1510),  an  artist  said  to  have  been  bom  in  Valencia  and  trained  in 
Italy.  It  is  adorned  in  the  most  elaborate  manner  with  scenes  from 
the  life  of  the  Virgin,  partly  painted  and  gilded,  but  unfortunately 
much  mutilated.  In  the  middle  is  the  Assumption.  The  three  large 
canopies  with  their  figures  are  especially  worthy  of  note.  At  the 
very  top  are  two  angels  supporting  the  'Virgin  of  the  Column'.  Below, 
to  the  right  and  left,  are  figures  of  SS.  Braulio  and  James,  the  hands 
of  which  are  frequently  kissed  by  the  devout. 

The  Cafilla  de  Nubstra  Sbnoba  del  Pilab  (best  visited  in 
the  afternoon^  as  masses  are  being  said  all  the  morning)  is  a  rectangle, 
entered  from  three  sides  and  surmounted  by  an  oval  dome  borne  by 
four  Corinthian  columns  of  marble,  with  gilded  capitals.  Through 
the  openings  we  see  a  second  cupola,  borne  by  four  large  pillars  and 
adorned  with  frescoes  by  Antonio  Velazquez  (1793).  The  chapel  is 
surrounded  by  four  smaller  cupolas,  painted  by  Bayeu  and  Ooya. 
The  handsome  marble  floor  is  generally  protected  by  boarding.  In 
the  W.  wall  of  the  chapel  are  three  recesses,  containing  altars  lighted 
by  silver  lamps;  Over  the  altars  in  the  centre  and  to  the  left  aire 
marble  groups  of  the  Virgin  surrounded  by  angels  and  8t.  James 
with  his  disciples.  Above  that  to  the  right  are  the  almost  invisible 
*Pilar'  and  an  incense-blackened  wooden  image  of  the  Virgin,  with 
the  Holy  Child  and  a  dalmatica.  These  three  altars  are  screened  by 
a  costly  silver  reja.  At  the  back  of  the  wall  containing  them  is  a 
hole  to  allow  the  devout  to  kiss  the  pillar  within.  Below  the  chapel 
is  a  crypt  for  the  coffins  of  the  clergy. 


Caw  de  Zaporla.  SARAGOSSA.  U.  Route,    \  69 

Among  tbe  monomenis  in  the  lide-ehapets  are  those  of  the  J)u- 
que  de  MonUmar  (d.  1763),  »  general  of  Philip  V.,  and  General 
Manuel  de  Ena  (d.  1861;  near  the  main  S.E.  entrance).  —  The 
SaerisUa  Mayor ^  the  SaerigUa  de  la  CapiUa  del  PUoTy  and  the  Sagrario 
contain  some  relics  of  the  former  treasures  of  the  churchi  the  ^Tesoro 
de  la  Yirgen',  and  her  costly  ^Qarderobe'.  An  Ecee  Homo,  ascribed 
to  Titian,  is  really  by  Franee^eo  Potencia$io  of  Palermo  (16th  cent.). 

In  the  Pas^o  del  Ebro,  a  little  farther  to  the  W.,  is  the  church 
of  San  Juan  de  lo$  PaneUt  (PJ.  D,  2),  with  a  curious  tower.  —  To 
the  S.W.  is  the  PUua  del  Mercado  (p.  170). 

Threading  our  way  through  the  narrow  streets  to  the  S.E.  from 
the  (^thedral  of  the  Pilar,  we  pass  many  picturesque  houses  and 
regain  the  Gai.ls  ds  Don  Jaimb  Piuiibbo  (PI.  E,  2,  D,  8).  In  this, 
to  the  right,  is  the  church  of  Santiago  (PI.  D,  2,  3),  built  upon  the 
spot  where  St.  James  is  said  to  have  passed  the  night.  The  tower 
contains  an  ancient  Visigothic  bell  (campana  goda).  The  rotable  of 
the  high-altar  is  handsome. 

In  the  Oalle  de  San  Jorge  (PI.  D,  E,  3),  which  diverges  to  the 
left  a  little  farther  on,  is  the  *CMa  de  Zaporta  or  dela  Infanta 
(No.  10),  a  handsome,  now  somewhat  dilapidated  Renaissance  dwell- 
ing'house,  buUt  in  1560  by  a  rich  citizen  named  Oabriel  Zaporta, 

Through  the  portal,  which  is  adoned  with  a  charming  frieze  of 
amoretli,  we  enter  the  Fatio,  with  eight  columns  sapporting  an  open 
arcade.  The  columns  consist  in  part  of  figures  of  nymph*)  and  satyrs, 
which  grow,  as  it  were,  out  of  the  elongated  haae.  Other  human  and 
animal  tigurea  hear  the  architrave,  which  is  covered  with  portrait-medal- 
lions and  fantaatic  forms  of  various  kinds.  The  balustrade  of  the  upper 
^tory  is  also  formed  of  supporting  figures,  alternating  with  medalhuns, 
reliefs  of  the  laboars  of  Hercules,  and  delightful  groups  of  amoretti.  Above 
these  rise  slender  and  graceful  columns,  bearing  sculptured  arches.  The 
spandrel)  are  also  filled  with  quaint  figures  and  relicts,  and  there  is  hard- 
ly an  inch  of  the  projecting  oniice  that  is  not  carved  Into  beauty.  — 
A  large  8taixcab£  ascends  to  the  upper  gallery.  The  balustrade  is  richly 
adorned  with  reliefs,  and  the  octagonal  cupola,  round  which  runs  a  gallery, 
has  an  exquisitely  carved  artesonado  ceiling.  Three  of  the  comers  are 
occupied  by  groups  consisting  of  a  knight  and  two  female  musicians;  the 
group  in  the  fourth  omer  is  composed  of  figures  sunk  in  earnest  medi- 
tation. Between  each  two  corners  are  two  shell-fecesses,  containing  half- 
length  figures  of  a  man  and  woman. 

To  the  S."W.  the  Calle  de  Don  Jaime  Primero  ends  at  the  CalU 
del  Coso  and  at  the  Plaza  db  la  Con8Tituci6n  (PI.  E,  3).  The 
former,  the  name  of  which  is  connected  with  the  Latin  ^fossa' 
(ditch),  skirts  the  S.  side  of  the  old  town.  In  the  middle  of  the 
latter,  which  is  the  focus  of  modern  Saragossa,  is  the  Fuenie  de  la 
Sangre,  a  pretty  fountain  commemorating  the  bloody  struggles  of 
1809.  On  the  S.E.  side  stands  the  H6iel  de  Earopa ;  on  the  N.W. 
are  the  Qdbiemo  Chil  and  the  Diputacidn  Provinrial,  containing 
numerous  'fueros*,  'actos  de  la  Corte  de  Aragon\  and  other  docu- 
ments. —  To  the  S.  of  the  plaza  is  the  Calle  de  la  Jndependencia  (see 
p.  172). 

FoUovlng  t1i«  Coco  to  the  N.W. ,  we  pass  tite  palace  of  the  Con 


no   Route  1 1.  SARAGOSSA.  San  Pablo. 

de  Azarra  (No.  29 ;  right),  with  a  fine  patio,  and  two  other  handsome 
palaces  to  the  left  (Nos.  64,  66).    No.  1 ,  to  the  right,  la  the  — 

*Aiidieneia  (PI.  0,  3;  fee  to  conserje  V2-^  P-)'  ^^^  former 
palace  of  the  Counts  Lma^  a  noble  family  to  which  belonged  the 
Anti-Pope  Benedict  Xin.  (p.  246)  and  the  *Trovatore'  of  Verdi's 
well-known  opera.  In  1809  this  house  was  the  headquarters  of 
Palafox  (p.  165).  To  the  populace  it  is  known  as  the  Casa  de  los 
Oigantes,  from  the  two  gigantic  figures  at  the  doorway.  The  facade, 
flanked  by  low  comer-towers,  is  simple  and  aristocratic ;  the  row  of 
fine  windows  in  the  upper  floor  is  surmounted  by  a  heavy  cornice. 
The  relief  over  the  doorway  represents  Pope  Benedict  entering 
Saragossa.  In  the  t>impanum  above  are  the  arms  of  the  Luna  family 
(a  moon),  and  these  are  repeated  with  more  detail  on  the  central 
column  of  the  vestibule  leading  to  the  patio.  The  npper  story  of 
the  latter  is  borne  by  14  Ionic  columns.  The  court-rooms  preserve 
their  fine  old  wooden  ceilings. 

The  suppressed  Dominican  convent  of  Stmta  Fi^  to  the  S.  of  the 
Andiencia,  was  long  the  home  of  the  Aeademia  d«  Bellas  Artea,  but  was 
pulled  down  as  unsafe  in  1B96.  The  collections  are  not  at  present  access- 
ible; they  consist  of  Roman,  Moorish,  and  Christian  antiquities,  and  of 
about  200  early-Flemish,  Spanish,  and  Italian  paintings. 

The  Casa  del  Conde  de  ArgoUo,  now  the  Colegio  de  San  FSlipe, 
stands  in  the  Plaza  de  San  F^ipe  (PI.  0,  D,  2,  3)  and  is  notable 
for  its  effective  cornice  and  its  arcaded,  though  somewhat  dilapidated, 
patio.  —  The  celebrated  Torre  Nuevo  in  the  same  plaza,  a  leaning 
tower  in  the  Mud^jar  style,  had  to  be  taken  down  in  1892. 

To  the  W.  of  the  old  town  lies  the  Plaza  del  Mb&cado  (PI.  G,  2), 
a  picturesque  market-place,  which  exhibits  a  very  lively  scene  on 
Sun.  and  in  the  moniings.  —  Many  interesting  features  are  possessed 
by  the  narrow  streets  to  the  £.  of  the  plaza,  such  as  the  Calle  de  Roda 
and  the  Platerfa,  or  street  of  the  goldsmiths,  now  named  the  Calle 
de  la  Manifestacidn  (PI.  D,  2).  —  The  streets  to  the  W.  of  the  Mer- 
cado  present  an  admirable  picture  of  Saragossa  as  it  was  before  the 
siege  of  1809.  Almost  every  house  here  is  a  specimen  of  the  genuine 
Aragonese  style.  Some  of  the  curious  patios  should  be  entered, 
such  as  those  in  the  CaUe  de  San  Blot  and  the  Calle  de  San  Pizblo 
(No.  19,  Posada  de  San  Bias). 

The  old  church  of  ♦San  Pablo  (PI.  C,  2),  probably  built  in  the 
Transition  style  about  1259,  has  an  octagonal  brick  tower,  elabor- 
ately adorned  with  coloured  and  glazed  tiles  (^azalejos'),  especially 
on  the  upper  stages.  According  to  Mr.  Fergusson,  4t  might  pass  for 
a  church  in  the  Crimea  or  the  steppes  of  Tartary'.  The  N.  portal,  in 
the  Calle  San  Bias,  is  adorned  with  figures  and  Gothic  ornament- 
ation. From  the  S.  portal  we  descend  by  a  flight  of  twelve  steps 
to  the  interior  of  the  church,  which  is  divided  into  nave  and  aisles 
by  six  pillars.  The  core,  with  Its  fine  silleria  of  1600,  is  at  the  W. 
end;  and  above  it  is  the  organ.    The  aisles  are  continued  round  the 


Aljrfferfa.  SAKAGOS&A.  U.  Ro^Ue,    171 

kigh-altoT,  tlie  retablo  of  wliich  is  aseribed  to  Dnmian  Forment 
(p.  168).  TheCapilla  de  San  Migu^L,  to  the  S.W.,  eontains  the 
monument  of  DUqo  de  Monrealy  Bishop  of  Huesca  (d.  1607). 

In  the  W.  part  of  the  city ,  2/8  M*  ^'om  the  Mercado ,  is  the 
church  of  Nuettra  Senora  del  PortUlo  (PI.  A,  2).  Close  by  is  the 
open  Puerto  of  the  same  name,  vhere  Maria  AguHin,  the  'Maid 
of  Saragossa*  (p.  165),  fought  by  the  side  of  hex  lover,  who  was  an 
artilleryman.  When  he  fell,  she  took  the  lintstock  from  his  dying 
hand  and  worked  the  gun  herself. 

*Her  lover  sinks  —  sbe  sheds  no  ill-timed  iear^ 

Her  ehief  is  slain  —  she  Alls  bis  fatal  post; 

Her  fellowB  flee  —  she  cheeks  their  base  career ^ 

The  foe  retiree  ~  she  heads  the  sallying  host. 

Who  can  appease  like  her  a  lover^s  ghost? 

Who  cin  avenge  so  well  a  leader's  fall? 

What  m-  id  retrieve  when  man's  flushed  hope  is  lost? 

Wbo  hang  so  fiercely  on  the  flviug  Gaul, 

Foird  by  a  woman's  hand,  before  a  batter'd  wall?* 

{ByrofCt  »Childe  Harold',  I.  56.) 

To  the  W.,  outside  the  gate,  stands  the  Castillo  de  la  Aljaferia 
(PI.  A,  2),  built  by  Sheikh  Abu  Dja'far  Ahmed  of  Saragossa,  and 
afterwards  the  residence  of  the  kings  of  Aragon  and  the  palace  of 
the  Inquisition.  It  was  the  prison  of  Antonio  Perez  (p.  162).  In 
1809  it  was  in  great  part  destroyed,  but  it  has  since  been  restored 
and  now  serves  as  barracks.  Visitors  are  admitted  by  permission 
from  the  commandant,  armed  with  which  they  present  themselves 
to  the  sentinel  at  the  second  gate  to  the  right  and  are  assigned  a 
sergeant  as  guide  (fee  1  p.).  After  traversing  two  or  three  rooms 
containing  arms,  we  are  led  to  those  of  the  older  apartments  that 
are  still  to  some  extent  preserved.  In  the  8al6n  de  Altoba  was  born 
(1271)  St.  Elizabeth  (Santa  Isabel ,  p.  670),  daughter  of  Peter  III. 
and  Constance  of  Sicily.  Other  rooms  have  fine  artesonado  ceilings 
with  the  arms  of  the  ^Catholic  Kings*  (p.  146)  and  their  omnipresent 
motto  iairdo  monta  ('thus  far  he  mounts*).  The  most  important  is 
the  *Oran  8al6n,  the  superb  ceiling  of  which  is  divided  into  30 
compartments,  each  with  a  rosette  and  a  pendant  pine- apple.  The 
gallery.  In  a  kind  of  Moorish  style,  bears  an  inscription  of  1492. 
The  old  azulejo  patterns  of  the  floor  can  still  be  made  out.  The 
great  ^StaiteoM,  its  balustrades,  and  its  ceiling  are  all  elaborately 
adorned.  A  horseshoe  arch  at  the  foot  of  the  staircase  leads  to  the 
Moorish  Mosque  or  MeBquUa.  with  the  MaksHra  (p.  311),  which  is 
still  effecttve  in  spite  of  the  ravages  of  time  and  whitewash.  The 
guide  shows  the  'Torreta',  supposed  to  be  the  dungeon  in  *I1  Tro- 
vatore*  (p.  170),  and  also  points  out  the  castle  of  Castejar  (p.  174), 
mentioned  in  the  drama  by  Oarefa  Gutierrez  from  which  the  libretto 
of  the  opera  is  borrowed.  The  N.  windows  command  a  flne  view  of 
the  Ebro  and  the  Pyrenees. 

We  now  return  through  the  Puerta  del  Portillo  and  proceed  to  the 
right,  past  the  Btdl  Ring  (p.  163),  to  the  Hospicio  Pbovinoiai 


M'2   Route  11,  SARAGOSSA.  Torrero, 

(PI.  B,  3),  a  large  poorhouse,  the  upper  windows  of  which  command 
an  excellent  view. 

The  ♦Callb  db  la.  Indbpbndbncia  (PI.  D,  0,  3,  4),  which  runs 
to  the  S.W.  from  the  Plaza  de  la  Constituci6n  (p.  169),  contains  the 
chief  caf^s  of  the  city  and  affords  a  charming  promenade.  The  houses 
on  the  W.  side  are  preceded  by  an  arcade.  At  the  end  of  the  street, 
to  the  left,  is  the  Teatro  PignaUlli,  Behind  this  theatre,  to  the  E., 
lies  the  well-known  convent  of  — 

Santa  Engr&oia  (PI.  G,  D,  4),  built  in  the  richest  Gothic  style 
by  the 'Catholic  Kings',  completed  by  Charles  V.,  and  partly  destroyed 
at  the  beginning  of  the  siege  of  1808.  The  fine  marble  •Facade 
is  adorned  with  statues  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella  and  a  double 
row  of  33  angels'  heads  over  the  doorway.  All  these  sculptures  are  by 
Joan  and  Diego  Afortone«(1605).  The  door  leads  to  the  subterranean 
Iglisia  de  las  Santas  Masaa  or  de  Los  Mdrtires,  so  called  because  many 
Christian  martyrs  were  interred  here.  In  1819  it  was  tastelessly 
restored.  From  the  vestibule,  with  its  pila  bautismal  (font),  we 
turn  to  the  left  into  the  church  proper,  which  consists  of  a  nave  aad 
double  aisles.  On  the  walls  are  some  old  pictures  and  four  tablets 
bearing  a  Latin  poem  by  Aurelio  Prudencio  in  praise  of  the  martyrs 
of  Saragossa.  The  church  also  contains  two  Early- Christian  Sarco- 
phagi of  marble,  and  in  the  middle  of  it  wells  up  a  fountain  said  to 
spring  from  the  blood  of  the  Christians  martyred  under  Dacian. 


The  EzcuBsioN  to  thb  Tobbbbo,  IV2  ^*  ^0  the  S.  of  the  Plaza 
de  la  Constituci6n  (tramway  and  omnibus,  see  p.  163),  is  well  woxth 
making.  We  ascend  the  Calle  de  la  Independencia  to  (10  min.)  the 
Plaza  de  Aragon  (PI.  C,  4),  which  contains  a  statue  otB^monPigna- 
telli ,  builder  of  the  Canal  Imperial  (p.  173),  and  then  quit  the 
city  by  the  Puerto  de  Santa  Engraeia(¥\,  C,  4).  In  front  of  us  flows 
the  rapid  Huerva.  To  the  right  runs  the  Paseo  de  la  Lealtad.  We 
keep  to  the  left,  cross  the  Huerva,  and  reach  the  shady  road  leading 
to  the  Torrero  between  manufactories,  schools,  villas  (torrtB),  and 
pleasure-gardens  (campos  eliseos).  Numerous  water-channels  (acf" 
quias)^  diverging  from  the  Canal  Imperial,  irrigate  the  fertile  soil. 
In  about  10  min.  we  cross  the  AcSquia  de  Adidas  (7!28  ft.)  and  then 
ascend  to  (10  min.)  the  Torrero.  To  the  right,  at  about  the  same 
level,  are  the  City  Water  Works  ('dep6sitos  de  agua'). 

The  •Torrero  (770  ft.),  with  the  domed  church  of  8(m  Fernando 
and  the  old  convent  of  Monte  Torrero  (now  a  barrack),  is  one  of  the  chief 
fortifications  of  the  city  (comp.  p.  165).  It  rises  close  to  the  Canal 
Imperial,  with  the  harbour  of  Saragossa,  constructed  in  1788.  To 
the  W.  the  canal  is  crossed  by  a  bridge;  to  the  E.  a  good  road  leads 
along  its  bank.  Adjacent  is  the  AcSquia  de  MirafloreSy  flowing  into 
the  Huerva.  This  road  leads  in  about  12  min.  to  a  bare^hill  (to  the 
left),  which  affords  a  splendid  ♦View  of  Saragossa,  the  valley  of  the 


CagaBiantfa.  SARAGOSSA.  li.  RtmU.   173 

fibro ,  and  the  mountainfl  which  rise  one  over  another  to  the  N. :  Sierra 
deAloibierre,  Sierra  de  Quara^  Sierra  de  ia  Pelia  (de  Oroeljy  and  the 
Pyrentee.  This  prospect  is  most  imposing  about  sunset. 

To  the  W.  of  the  Tonero  we  may  walk  along  the  canal  to  the 
Buena  Vista,  which  commands  a  similar  *Vlew,  and  to  the  top  of 
the  Montayo  (p.  174).  Farther  on  the  canal  crosses  the  Huerva,  and 
beyond  the  viaduct  is  an  olive-grove,  through  which  we  may  proceed 
to  the  Oma  BImnoft  (rail,  station,  see  below),  at  the  end  of  the 
Huerta.  Here  is  an  inn,  where  popular  festivals  are  celebrated  with 
great  merriment  on  June  24th  and  June  29th.  It  was  here  that 
Marshal  Lannes  signed  the  stipulations  for  the  surrender  of  Saragossa 
(p.  165).  — We  may  also  return  to  the  town  via  the  Aljaferfa  (p.  171). 
-  The  Oaatl  Imperii!  d«  AragOB,  began  in  1608  under  Charles  V.  and 
■ever  iliiished,  sUrts  at  the  Bocal  del  i7«y,  3  M.  below  Tudela  (p.  175),  and 
fellows  the  right  bank  of  the  Ebro  to  FuenttidtEbro  (p.  181).  It  is  abouieOM. 
loi^,  TD  ft.  wide,  and  10  ft.  deep.  Since  the  opening  of  the  railways  it 
is  used  only  for  irrigation  \  and  in  this  capacity  it  is  the  principal  source 
of  the  exuberant  fertility  of  the  right  bank  of  the  Ebro.  The  canal  runs 
over  very  uneven  ground  and  ia  at  places  much  higher  than  the  Ebro 
(120  ft.  at  Saragossa)  i  thus  it  often  regains  a  lower  level  by  veritable 
waterfalls. 

Fbom  Sabaqossa  to  CASiffuiA,  29 M.,  railway  in  2  hrs.  (1st  class  6 p.  30, 
8rd  class  2  p.  65  c).  The  train  sUrts  from  the  local  station  mentioned  at 
p.  163.  The  first  intermediate  station  is  (2Vs  M.)  Cata  Bamca  (see  above). 
•  Oaxilena  is  a  town  of  3100  inhab.  in  the  wine-growing  Campos  de  Ca- 
Dttigences  run  hence  to  Daroca  (p.  167)  and  Teruil  (p.  361). 


18.  From  Saragogsa  to  Caatojon  and  Miranda  de  Ebro. 

149  M.  Rau-wat  (two  trains  daily)  in  874-9i/s  hrs.  (fares  37  p.  60,  30  p.  70, 
13  p.  46  c).  There  is  also  one  local  train  daily  from  Saragossa  to  LogrtMo^ 
smd  one  from  Logroio  to  Mitanda.  Ctarriages  are  changed  in  Caatvo^^  the 
junction  for  the  direct  line  to  Pampeluna  and  Als^sua  (p.  175).  —  Trains 
start  in  Saragossa  at  the  Bttaci&n  d*l  Arrabdl  (p.  163).  Dupacho  Central^  see 
p.  103.  —  Bailway-restaurants  at  aaragoMta^  Catetoi,  Catt^J<m^  and  Miranda^ 
that  at  the  last  being  the  best. 

The  railway  follows  the  right  bank  of  the  Ebro  all  the  way  to  Mi- 
randa, and  as  far  as  Tudela  (p.  175)  it  also  hkirts  the  Canal  Imperial 
(see  above).  The  scenery  is  interesting  and  often  picturesque.  The  Dnest 
points  are  Calakorra  (p.  176),  LofrtMo  (p.  177),  the  Cunehas  del  Bbro  (p.  178), 
and  (above  all)  near  the  Burra  MoneofQ  (p.  174),  which  is  visible  from 
Saragossa  till  beyond  CSalahovra.    Best  views  to  the  right. 

Saragossa^  see  p.  163.  —  The  railway  burrows  under  the  main 
street  of  AnabUl  (p.  165),  skirts  the  Ebro,  and  sweeps  round  to  the 
N.W.  thiongh  the  so-called  OrtUUi,  It  then  turns  to  the  S.W.  and 
crosses  the  river  by  a  flve-arched  bridge  (PI.  B,  1).  Fine  retrospect 
of  the  city,  with  its  two  cathedrals,  the  chnrch  of  San  Pablo ,  and 
the  Aljaferfa  J  to  the  N.  rise  the  Pyrenees,  to  the  W.  the  Moncayo. 
The  train,  without  touching  at  the  Madrid  station  (p.  163),  then  tra- 
verses the  green  plain  of  the  Ebro,  bounded  by  curious  hills  of 
marl.  To  the  rightt  on  the  barren  left  bank  of  the  Ebro,  lies  Jtuti- 
hoi.  —  T'/a  M.    VtebO'Monzalbarba^  ou  the  right  bank,  the  station 


i14RouUl9,  GALLtJR.  From  Baragoiaa 

for  the  TlUagea  of  these  nanies,  both  of  which  have  the  octagonal 
church-towers  so  common  iii  Atagout. 

10  M.  CaseUu  (p.  168),  the  junction  of  the  line  to  Madrid  (R.  10). 
—  The  traiu  runs  through  a  fertile  aud  well-inigated  district.  13  M. 
La  Joyom,   We  cross  the  Jaldn. 

151/2  ^'  Alagdn,  a  small  town  pleasantly  situated  on  the  Jalon ; 
the  tiled  dome  belongs  to  the  Jesuit  church  of  San  Antonio  de  Pa- 
dua, the  octagonad  tower  is  that  of  the  parish-church.  —  The  Canal 
Jmperidl  fp.  173)  is  here  carried  above  the  Jal6n  by  a  four-arched 
aqueduct  (to  the  left  of  the  railway-bridge);  it  formerly  passed  under 
the  river  in  a  tunnel.  —  To  the  right,  above  the  Ebre,  rises  the 
castle  of  Castejar  (p.  171),  on  the  sierra  of  that  name. 

To  the  left  of  (21 1/2  M.)  Pedrola  lies  part  of  the  Uano  de  Pla- 
aeificia  (p.  167).  At  (24  M.)  Lueeni  the  Pyrenees  are  conspicuous 
to  the  right.  Beyond  the  Ebro,  on  the  irrigation-canal  of  Tauete^ 
lies  Remolino,  with  its  saline  springs.  The  train  crosses  the  Canal 
Imperial,  which  henceforth  remains  to  the  right,  and  enters  a  barren 
region.  We  have  a  singular  view  over  the  narrow  green  strip  of  Ae 
Ebro  valley  to  Tauste  and  the  Pyrenees  on  one  side  and  the  desert 
and  Moncayo  on  the  other. 

29  M.  Oaliur,  the  port  for  the  grain- vessels  of  the  Cinco  ViUas 
(to  the  N.),  which  descend  the  Ebro  to  Tortosa  and  Amposta  (p.  239). 
These  'five  towns'  are  TdusU,  809^  8ddaba^  Ejea,  and  Xuna.  A  dili- 
gence plies  from  Gallur  to  Tauste. 

The  line  now  traverses  the  desolate  Llanura.  Here  and  there 
we  see  a  eorral  or  sheep-fold.  The  veget&lto^  consists  ^  toU  thistles, 
rosemary,  and  salt-plants.  The  geological  formation,  seen  in  the 
railway-cuttings,  consists  of  limestone  below,  then  argillaceous  marl, 
with  rubble  on  the  top.  Farther  on  olive-tiees  reappear  in  the  vicin- 
ity of  the  Ebro.  On  the  opposite  bank  the  ground  swells  into  low 
mesas  ('tables').  These  are  succeeded  by  the  bleak  plateau  of  the 
Bdrdenas,  over  which  rise  a  few  hills.  We  cross  the  Hueeha  and 
reach  (34  M.)  Cortes ,  the  first  village  In  Navarre,  with  a  castle  of 
Don  Sancho  Abarca. 

A  branch-railway  (11  M.,  in  s/4  hr.)  runs  to  the  8.W.  from  Oortes,  up 
the  valley  of  the  Hnecha,  to  Bmqa,  a  prettily  situaied  old  town  with 
5600  inhab.  and  the  ancestral  cattle  of  the  Bonaa  (Borgias;  p.26(^.  From 
Borja  a  visit  may  be  paid  to  the  Vonoayo  (7600  ft.),  the  M<m$  Catmu*  of 
the  Romans.  The  route  leads  vi&  Vera^  a  village  known  for  Its  heady 
red  Tfine.  to  the  pietaresquely  aitnated  Vtntda,  an  old  Oiata»eiaa  abbey 
founded  la  1146  and  presenting  many  featuyea  of  interest.  Among  these 
may  be  instanced  the  beautiful  Gothic  cloisters  (14th  cent.).,  the  chapter 
house,  the  great  marble  staircase,  the  Transitional  church,  and  the  em- 
battled walls  and  towers.  From  the  old  abbey  we  ride  to  the  top  of  the 
Moncayo  via  the  hamlet  of  Pa$md  and  the  £rmita  de  Ifuettra  BeSiora  dt 
iffoncayOf  a  well-known  pilgrimage-resort  (night-quarters).  The  Sierra  de 
Uoncayo^  the  mountain-barrier  between  the  Castllian  hill-country  of  Soria 
and  the  mneh  lower  basin  of  the  Ebro.  ii  a  precipitous  and  featareless 
wall  of  granite,  nearly  40  M.  long,  of  which  two  fiummits  oniy  (one  to  the 
N.  and  one  to  the  8.)  extricate  themselves  from  the  general  mass.  Martial 
mentions  it  a^  the  haunt  of  ^olus,  and  it  is  still  dreaded  as  the  gathering 


to  Miranda  de  Ebro.      .  TUDELA.  19.  RawU,   175 

gvomd  of  saddea  tbunder-stormi.  Its  ^sbort  leg*  ts  lowards  the  CaitillMi 
plateau,  while  iU  slope  on  the  side  next  the  Ebro  valley  is  much  longer. 
The  view  is  very  extensive,  bat  not  picturesque. 

The  railway  to  Miranda  continuefl  to  run  for  some  time  through 
a  desert  and  then  emerges  on  a  region  of  vineyards  and  corn-fields. 
*-  42'/j  M.  Bibafotada,  The  railway  skirts  a  forest  which  is  inter- 
sected hy  the  Canal  Imperial.  In  the  Ebro,  beyond  this,  3  M.  from 
Tudeia,  is  the  Boeal  del  Rey,  the  great  prtM,  or  weir,  for  feeding 
the  canal.  The  next  village  is  Fontellas,  On  the  opposite  side  of  the 
Kbro  are  Fustinana  and  CahanUlcu. 

481/2  M.  Tad«U  (830  ft. ;  Fonda  de  la  UtUon;  Fonda  de  Morales), 
finely  situated  close  to  the  Ebro,  with  8700  inhabitants.  To  the  left 
is  the  Fkua  de  Toros;  to  the  right  the  Ebro  is  crossed  by  a  bridge  of 
nineteen  arches.  The  ^CoUgiata  (formerly  the  cathedral),  dating  in 
ita  present  form  mainly  from  the  13th  cent.,  is  described  by  Mr.  Street 
as  one  of  the  very  best  churches  he  had  visited  in  any  part  of  Europe. 
It  has  three  fine  doorways  and  is  adjoined  on  the  S.  by  beautiful 
cloisters.    The  church  of  La  Magdalena  is  also  interesting. 

From  Tndela  a  branch -line  (13i/t  M.,  in  IWi  hr.)  runs  to  Taraiona 
XFonda  Lopex),  a  venerable  town  witii  7900  inhab.,  on  the  QtM«es,  which 
descends  from  the  Moncayo  (p.  174).  The  CaMec<iYri,  dating  substanti- 
ally from  the  13th  cent.,  but  much  modernized  on  the  exterior,  has  a 
lofty  steeple  and  a  carious  but  picturesque  cimborio  formed  of  bricks 
and  coloured  tiles.  The  cloisters  are  a  good  example  of  10th  cent,  brick 
worl^  with  delicate  tracery  cut  in  thin  slabs  of  stone.  The  ofaurch  of 
La  Magdatena  has  a  t  11  and  beautiful  steeple,  adorned  with  diaper-patterns 
formed  by  projecting  bricks.  The  ehurches  of  La  CencepHdn  and  San 
MiguH  may  also  be  visited.  Kear  La  Magdalena  is  the  large  BUikipU 
Falace,  fornaerly  the  Alciaar* 

Our  line  skirts  the  hills  to  the  left,  on  which  some  fortifications 
are  visible.  To  the  right  we  look  across  the  valley  of  the  Ebro  to- 
wards the  Mesas  (p.  174).  To  the  N.  rise  the  lofty  summits  of  the 
Pyrenees.  We  pass  the  villages  of  Argucdat  and  Valtierra.  The 
Bardenas  (p.  174)  still  lie  to  the  right.  The  Moncayo  retreats  into 
the  background.    The  Ebro  winds  between  low  green  banks. 

58Vs  M.  Castojon  (RaU.  HoUl^*Be9taurantJj  a  poor  village  in  a 
flat  district,  belonging  to  the  Castilian  province  of  Soria.  Diligences 
run  hence  to  Soria  (p.  155),  to  the  (14 V2  M.)  baths  and  hot  springe 
(117<>  Fahr.)  of  Fitero,  on  the  Alhama,  and  to  CilV2  M.)  Grdvalds. 

FtooM  Castbjon  to  Pampeluka  and  Alsasua,  87  M.,  railway  (two 
through-trains  daily)  in  6Vs  and  9  brs.  (fares  16  p.  10,  12  p.  10.  7  p.  '^5  c). 
A  local  train  also  plies  daily  from  Cast ej on  to  Pampduna^  and  two  from 
Pampeluna  to  Alsdtua.  —  The  chief  stations  before  Pampeluna  are  (1^  M.) 
Uareitia,  (25  M.)  Olite.  with  two  interesting  churches  and  a  ruined  castle, 
(2&U.)  Tqfalla,  and  (46  H.)  ITcain. 

66  11.  Pampeluna,  Span.  Pamplona  (1380  ft.-,  Perla;  Europa)^  the 
Roman  PompatUt^  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  towns  in  K.  Spain.  In  476 
it  was  occupied  by  the  Visigoths  under  Enric;  in  542  and  again  in  778, 
after  a  short  interval  of  Moorish  dominion,  it  was  in  possession  of  the 
Franks)  and  in  906  it  became  the  capital  of  the  kingdom  of  Navarre. 
In  1612  it  was  captured  by  the  Castilians  ^  in  1806-13  it  was  in  the  hands 
of  the  Freneh,  frOm  whom  it  was  taken  by  the  Dake  of  Wellington  in 
th«  latter  year;  and  in  1875-76  it  was  frequently  mentioned  in  connection 
with  the  second  Curlist  war.    The  town,  which  is  strongly  fortified  ^and 


176   Route  1^.  GALAHORRA.  From  Saragassa 

dominated  by  an  old  citadel,  contains  29,800  inhab.  and  lies  upon  a  hill 
pn  the  left  bank  of  the  Arga.  The  chief  object  of  intereat  i$  the  Qothie 
*Gathbdbal,  built  by  Charles  HI.  of  Navarre  in  1397  et  seq.  on  the  site 
of  a  Romanesque  chnrch  of  1101.  The  facade  is  modem,  and  the  two 
towers  (166  ft.)  date  from  1780.  The  fine  interior  is  flanked  on  both  slides 
by  rows  of  chapels ;  the  coro  occupies  the  centre  of  the  nare ;  the  form 
of  the  apse  is  unusual.  The  church  contains  the  tombs  of  Charles  ITL 
and  his  wife  Leonora  of  Castile,  with  alabaster  effigies  of  the  deceased 
(1496);  good  Renaissance  choir-stalla  by  Higuel  de  Ancheta  (1680);  and  an 
ancient  and  highly  revered  image  of  the  Virgin.  A  handsome  door  in 
the  right  aisle,  with  a  relief  of  the  Death  of  the  Virgin  above  it,  leads 
into  the  *Clouter»^  which  are  among  the  most  beautiful  in  Spain.  To  the 
E.  of  the  cloisters  is  the  Chapter  House;  to  the  S.  are  the  Sola  Preciota^ 
onee  the  meeting-place  of  the  Cortes  of  Kavarre,  and  the  Capilla  di  Santa 
Ortu,  the  latter  railed  in  by  a  reja  formed  of  the  tent-chains  of  the 
Hoorish  leader  En-NaAlr,  captared  by  the  Navarrese  at  tbe  battle  of  Las 
Kavas  de  Tolosa  (p.  809)  in  1^9.  —  Among  the  other  sights  of  Pampelnna 
are  the  Gothic  church  of  San  SiOumino ;  the  originally  Romanesque  church 
of  San  Nicolas;  and  the  Plaza  del  Castillo  or  de  la  GonstUueidn,  with  its  ar- 
cades. To  the  S.  of  the  town  lies  the  Btai  Ring;  to  the  W.  are  the  Paseo 
de  Valencia,  with  the  Frenl&n  for  the  Basque  ball-game  (p.  xxiz),  and  the 
Jardin  de  la  Taconera  (fine  views).  Pampeluna  is  the  native  place  of 
Sarasate,  the  violinist,  and  possesses  a  Sareuate  Mustum,  containing  the 
jewels  and  other  gifts  received  by  the  musician  from  royal  personages. 
60  M.  Zuasti;  76  M.  HuarU;  81  M.  Echarri,  —  87  M.  AUdsua,  see  p.  ±L 
As  we  continue  oar  journey  from  Castejon  to  Miranda,  we  see 
to  the  N.  the  wide  valley  of  the  Aragdn^  sloping  upwards  to  the 
highland  plateau  of  Navarre. 

62  M.  Alfaro,  an  ancient  town  with  6800  inhab.  and  formerly 
one  of  the  keys  of  Navarre,  is  the  first  station  in  the  Castilian  pro- 
vince of  Logrono.  We  cross  the  Alhama,  To  the  right,  prettily 
situated  on  the  farther  bank  of  the  Ebro,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Arag6n, 
lies  MilagrOf  with  its  ruined  castle.  —  67V2  M.  Bincon  de  Soto,  in 
a  treeless  district.  To  the  left  are  the  Sierra  del  Madero  (3870  ft.),  the 
W.  prolongation  of  the  Sierra  de  Moncayo,  and  Aldea  Nueva,  The 
line  traverses  a  corn-growing  tract. 

75 Y2  ^*  Calahorra  (Fonda  Juliana;  Fonda  Espinoea)^  the  birth- 
place of  Quintilian,  is  an  old  and  famous  town  with  8500  inhab., 
occupying  a  somewhat  confined  situation  on  the  slope  rising  from  the 
Cidaeos,  It  is  the  CkUaguirris  Nassica  of  the  Iberians,  which  resisted 
Pbmpey  successfully  in  B.  G.  76  and  was  taken  four  years  later  by 
Afranius,  after  a  heroic  resistance,  in  which  the  tortures  of  hunger 
endured  by  the  besieged  followers  of  Sertorius  made  fames  Calagwr^ 
ritana  a  proverbial  expression.  A  few  ruins  still  mark  the  site  of  a 
Roman  Circus  and  A^ucdtxct  (p.  177).  The  Gathbdbal,  on  the  bank 
-of  the  Cidacos,  on  the  site  where  Emeterius  and  Celedonku  suffered 
martyrdom,  was  raised  to  episcopal  rank  in  1045  and  was  restored 
by  Maestre  Juan  in  1485.  The  transepts,  the  chief  doorway,  and  the 
Gapilla  de  Santa  Epifania  were  altered  at  a  later  date.  The  Gasa 
Santa  contains  the  bodies  of  the  two  saints  named  above,  who  were 
beheaded  about  300  A.  D.  Their  heads  were  thrown  into  the  Ebro, 
floated  down  to  the  sea,  and  made  their  way  round  the  coast  of  the 


to  Miranda  d(i  Ebro,        LOGRONO.  rJ.  lioulf.    177 

peninsula  to  Santonder,  where  they  are  now  preserved  (p.  44).   On 
Ang.  3l8t  the  Casa  Santa  it  visitad  by  crowds  of  pUgrims. 

The  shield  of  Calahorra  exhibits  two  naked  arms,  with  swords  which 
emit  sparks:  above  is  a  woman  with  a  sword  In  one  hand  and  a  child  in 
the  other.  The  motto  ts:  Pfvdkei  contra  Cariago  y  Roma,  This  escutcheon 
refers  to  a  vision  seen  by  Hannibal  when  he  took  the  city. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  Ebro  lie  the  so-called  'Cuaito  Villas': 
San  Adrian,  AndodUa,  Lertn^  and  Azagra,  Behind  these  is  the 
Solanaj  a  desert  extending  on  the  W.  to  Haro  (p.  178)  and  bounded 
on  tbe  N.  by  a  hilly  district,  through  which  the  Arga^  Ega,  and  Odron 
have  cloven  deep  valleys.  Tafaila,  Larraga,  Estella,  and  other  vil- 
lages in  this  region  were  well-known  names  in  the  Garllst  wars. 
Beyond  the  hiU-district  rise  the  limestone  peaks  of  the  Sierra  de 
Afuiia(4900ft). 

About  18  M.  to  the  8. W.  of  Calahorra  lie  the  well-known  hot  sulphur 
•prings  (120*  Fahr.)  of  Amedille,  frequented  from  June  to  the  middle  of 
September.  The  road  to  them  leads  along  the  Cidaeoo  vi&  (10  M.)  Amedo^ 
a  town  with  9800  inhabitants. 

The  train  eontinnes  to  traverse  a  dreary  distriot,  close  to  the 
Kbro.  84  M.  Lodota^  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Ebro,  with  old  cave 
dwellings  of  the  Moorish  period.  The  Monoayo  now  disappears. 
Farther  on  is  a  fertile  grain-growing  region,  watered  by  means  of 
a  weir  across  the  Ebro.  The  valley  contracts.  In  the  Solana,  on  the 
farther  bank,  are  seen  the  ruins  of  the  Roman  aqueduct  of  Cala- 
horra. —  88  M.  Aleanadre.  The  layers  of  soil  on  the  heights 
of  both  banks  are  altomatoly  red  and  whito.  The  Ebro  itself  is 
stained  red.  To  the  N.  rise  picturesque  limestone  peaks.  —  927*2  M. 
Mendaviay  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Ebro.  Farther  on,  to  the  right, 
close  to  the  railway,  lies  AgorteiUo,  the  Roman  Egon,  with  an  old 
castle  with  four  towers.  We  cross  the  Le%a,  100  M.  BeeajOy  in  an 
unenltivated  and  waterless  plain.  To  the  N.W.  rises  the  huge 
Sierra  de  Canldbrio,  forming  the  mountain-barrier  between  the  Ebro 
valley  and  the  Concha  de  Alava  (p.  15).  At  its  base  lies  Viana 
(p.  178).  To  the  left  opens  a  wide  valley,  whence  the  Iregua  issues ; 
this  is  backed  by  the  snow-capped  5i«rra  CeboUera  (7138  ft.)  and 
the  Pico  de  Urhion  (7396  ft.),  on  the  S.  flank  of  which  the  Douro 
takes  its  rise.  The  train  crosses  the  Iregua  by  an  iron  bridge  386  ft. 
long. 

106  M.  Logrofto  (1040  ft. ;  Fonda  del  Vniverto ;  Hot.  del  Comercio ; 
Hot.  ^  Best.  Suizo'),  the  Julidbriga  of  the  Romans  and  the  birthplace 
of  the  painter  Juan  Fernandez  Navarrete,  sumamed  El  Mudo  (1526- 
79),  is  a  city  of  13,800  inhab.,  commandingly  situated  on  the  Ebro. 
It  is  the  capital  of  a  province  of  Its  own  name  and  the  depot  of  the 
rich  wine-district  of  Bioja,  which  extends  to  the  S.  It  contains  few 
objects  of  interest.  —  We  enter  the  town  by  the  Delieias  Promenade. 
The  chief  squares  are  the  Plaza  del  Coso  and  the  Plaza  Bedonda. 
The  main  street  has  arcades  on  both  sides.  The  interesting  twelve- 
arched  bridge  across  the  Ebro,  built  in  1138  by  San  Juan  de  Ortega. 

Basdbkbb^s  Spain.  12 


1  78    Itoute  12.  HARO. 

the  Spanish  St.  John  Nepomuc,  has  recently  heen  removed.  The 
paiish-ohurch  Santa  Maria  deFalado,  snmamed  the  imperial,  is  said 
to  have  been  founded  by  Oonstantine  the  Great.  At  its  W.  end  are 
two  towers  j  the  choir  contains  wood-carvings  and  frescoes  by  Jose 
Vexes  (d.  1782). 

A  DiLiosNCE  plies  from  Logrono  to  {il^k  M.)  Ptanpeluna^  pasting  (5  V .) 
Viana  and  (257s  H.)  Ettella.  The  latter  was  the  headquarters  of  the  Car- 
lists,  and  it  was  here,  in  1874,  that  Don  Carlos  caused  the  German  Capt. 
Schmidt,  attached  as  a  war  corre<<pondent  to  the  Repablican  troops,  to  be 
shot.  —  A  diligence  also  runs  from  Logrono  to  (59  M.)  Soria  (p.  15o). 

The  Solana  and  ranges  of  steep  hills  are  conspicuous  to  the  right. 
The  valley  contracts,  and  the  train  runs  at  a  considerable  height 
above  the  river.  —  115  M.  Frunmayofy  where  the  Ebro  is  spanned 
by  a  suspension-bridge. 

Abont  S^^sM.  to  the  S.W.,  near  J)rd>«ra,  the  old  residence  of  the  rulers 
of  Kavarre,  lies  Navarrete^  where  the  Black  Prince  and  Peter  the  Cruel 
defeated  the  French  under  Henry  of  Trastamara  and  Da  Quesclin  (1367). 

The  railway  follows  the  bends  of  the  Ebro.  The  scenery  is  mon- 
otonous. To  the  N.  are  El  Ciego  and  La  Quardia,  the  latter  fam- 
ous for  its  silk-culture.  — 12172  M.  Cenicero^  in  a  wine-growing  dis- 
trict. We  cross  the  NajeriUa.  128  M.  San  Asensio.  —  The  train 
passes  through  a  tunnel  below  a  Hieronymite  convent.  To  the  right, 
on  a  hill  beyond  the  Ebro,  lies  San  Vicente,  with  its  church.  — 
131 V2  M.  Briones,  rising  in  terraces  from  the  Ebro.  The  train  crosses 
the  Tiron, 

I36V2  M.  Hare  (Hot.  de  Europa),  a  town  with  7100  inhab.,  is 
one  of  the  chief  places  in  the  Rioja,  which  lies  to  the  S.,  backed  by 
the  imposing  Sierra  de  la  Demanda^  with  the  Cerro  de  San  Lorenzo 
(7660  ft.),  the  Sierra  de  Neila^  and  the  Pico  de  Vrbion  (p.  177).  — 
The  railway  now  approaches  the  mountains,  which  the  Ebro  intersect? 
between  the  Bilihio  to  the  N.  and  the  Buradon  to  the  S.  The  train 
penetrates  the  wild  ravine  of  the  Concha  de  Haro  (tunnel)  and  then 
(2^/2  M.  farther  on)  the  Concha  Chiquita,  These  two  defiles,  known 
as  the  Conchas  del  Ebro^  are  much  more  celebrated  than  their  nature 
warrants,  and  do  not  compare  with  the  adjacent  gorge  of  Pancorbo 
(p.  17).  On  leaving  the  defile,  we  enter  the  fine  amphitheatre  in 
which  Miranda  lies.  To  the  left  is  the  village  of  Ircio.  —  The  train 
crosses  the  Ebro  by  an  iron  bridge  300  ft.  long. 

149  M.  Miranda  de  Ebro,  see  p.  17. 

13 .  From  Saragossa  to  Tardienta  and  Lerida  (Barcelona) . 

114  M.  Railway  (one  train  daily)  in  6  hrs. :  fares  21  p.  5,  15  p.  80,  11  p. 
60  c.  (to  Barcelona,  227  H.,  in  11  hrs.  ■,  fares  42  p.  10,  31  p.  60  c,  23  p.).  A 
local  train  also  runs  daily  from  Saragossa  to  Tardienta.  —  Trains  start  in 
Saragossa  at  the  E»taei6n  del  Ai-rabal  (p.  163),  in  Barcelona  at  the  Estacidn 
del  Norte  (p.  194).  Despacho  Central  at  Saragossa,  see  p.  163  ^  at  Barcelona, 
see  p.  194.  —  Bailway  -  restaurants  at  Baragoeea,  lArida,  Manreta,  and 
Barcelona. 

Saragossa^  see  p.  163.  —  The  train  turns  from  Arrabal  towards 


HUESCA.  13.  Route.    179 

the  N.E.  and  ascends  the  right  bank  of  the  OdUegOy  a  stream  de- 
scending from  the  Pyrenees.  As  far  as  Almndtfvar  it  follows  the  old 
highroad  to  Huesca  and  Jaea  in  Upper  Aragon  and  to  Catalonia. 
The  district  traversed  is  fairly  ouUiyated.  —  6  M.  San  Juan  de  Mo^ 
unrifar;  7Vs  M.  ViUanueva  del  QdUego. 

At  (16  M.)  Zuera  road  and  railway  cross  the  Gil  lego  and  enter 
the  province  of  HueBca.  Between  the  Gallego  and  the  Isuela  extend 
the  Llanos  de  Violada^  a  dreary  and  thinly  settled  plain.  —  27  M. 
Almudivair^  a  town  with  2800  inhab.  and  a  ruined  castle. 

The  railway  now  tarns  to  the  S.E.,  at  right  angles  to  its  former 
course.  —  32  M.  Tardiento»  an  insignificant  town  with  1350  inhab., 
is  the  junction  of  the  line  to  Huesca  and  Jaca, 

Fkom  Tabdxknta  to  Jaca,  88  M.,  railway  (one  through- train  daily)  in 
5»/i  hrs.  (farea  13  p.  85,  10  p.  40,  7  p.  96  c).  There  is  also  another  train  for 
local  st&fcionfl. 

13>/«  M .  HuaMa  (1600  ft.  *,  Union),  the  Roman  Osea,  a  city  with  13,000 
inkab.,  is  the  see  of  a  bishop  and  the  capital  of  a  province.  The  quaint 
old  city,  which  is  surrounded  by  the  ramains  of  an  older  and  a  newer 
(outer)  line  of  eircumvallation,  stands  on  a  low  elevation  rising  out  of 
the  wide  plain  of  La  Hoya^  near  the  last  8.W.  spurs  of  the  Sierra  de  Quara. 
Sertorius,  who  was  murdered  here  by  Perpenna  in  B.C.  72,  made  Huesca 
the  seat  of  a  eollege  for  the  noble  youths  of  Iberia  and  Lusitania,  and  the 
city  also  played  an  important  r61e  under  the  Boman  dominion.  The  Moors 
hnilt .  a  mosque  here  which  pai^sed  for  the  fineat  in  the  country.  On  its 
reconquest  by  the  Ghristii-ns  ia  1096,  Huesca  became  the  capital  of  Aragon, 
but  it  lost  this  position  to  Saragossa  in  1118,  though  the  Cortes  still  often 
met  here  during  the  12-13th  canturies.  —  The  chief  lion  of  Huesca  is  the 
Gothic  Cathbdsal,  which  lies  on  the  highest  ground  in  the  city,  on  tbe 
site  of  the  famous  Moorish  mosque.  It  was  begun  by  the  Basque  Juan  de 
Olotzoffa  at  the  beginning  of  the  16th  cent.,  and  finished  about  1615.  The 
fine  main  doorway  is  adorned  with  14  colossal  figures  of  apostles  and  saints. 
The  interior,  forming  a  square  of  136  ft.,  is  flanked  with  rows  of  chapels 
and  ends  in  five  octagonal  apses.  The  transepts  do  not  project  beyond  the 
line  of  the  side-walls ;  the  coro  occupies  the  two  easternmost  bays  of  the 
nave.  The  fine  choir-stalls  are  in  the  Renaissance  style.  The  alabaster 
*Betablo  of  the  high-altar  (1520-33),  the  brilliant  masterpiece  of  Damian 
Formeni  (p.  168),  is  adorned  with  beautifully  carved  reliefs  of  the  Bearing 
of  the  Gross,  Crucifixion,  and  Descent  from  the  Cross,  and  with  medallions 
of  the  sculptor  and  his  wife.  —  Opposite  the  cathedral  stands  the  large 
(kua  Contistorial.  —  In  the^S.  part  of  the  town  is  San  Pedbo,  one  of  the 
oldest  Romanesque  churches  in  the  country,  having  been  begun  in  1100 
and  consecrated  in  1241.  The  cimborio  is  of  a  later  period.  The  church 
is  roofed  with  barrel-vaulting  and  terminates  in  three  semicircular  apses. 
The  main  entrance  is  on  the  tf.  side.  At  the  V.E.  comer  of  the  church 
rises  a  hexagonal  bell-tower  5  on  the  S.  it  is  adjoined  by  sadly  dilapidated 
cloisters  of  the  12th  century.  —  The  Institdto  Psovxngial,  in  the  N.  part 
of  the  town,  occupies  the  building  of  the  university  that  flourished  here 
under  the  kings  of  Aragon.  It  contains  a  vaulted  room  of  the  12th  cent., 
which  is  said  to  have  been  the  scene  of  the  massacre  known  as  the  'Bell 
of  Huesca\  King  Ramiro  II.,  sumamed  'El  Moi^e'  (p.  186),  was  advised 
by  the  Abbot  of  San  Ponce  de  TomeriLs  to  show  his  turbulent  nobles  'a 
bell  which  could  be  heard  throughout  the  whole  country\  Ramon  ac- 
cordingly beheaded  16  of  the  leaders  and  arranged  their  heads  in  the  form 
of  a  bell,  with  one  hung  up  as  the  clapper.  The  library  of  the  Institute 
possesses  some  valuable  MSS.  —  The  church  of  Saku,  about  IVs  M.  from 
Huesca,  has  a  fine  recessed  W.  doorway  with  exquisite  mouldings. 

82  M  Jaea,  a  town  of  8800  inhab.,  is  the  capital  of  the  mountain 
district  of  Sobrarbe  (p.  161).    At  present  it  is  the  terminus  of  the  railway 

12* 


180   Route  13.  MONZON. 

wMcb  is  to  be  prolonged  io  Canfreme.    The  cathedral  was  originally  founded 
in  814  and  retains  some  interesting  fiomanesqne  details. 

The  railway  to  L^rida  continues  to  run  towaids  the  S.E.  To 
the  left  we  enjoy  fine  views  of  the  Pyrenees.  —  42V2  M.  Qranen^  a 
small  place  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Isuela^  along  which  the  train 
descends.   48^2  M.  Polinino. 

56  M.  Sariilenat  an  old  town  with  3200  inhab.,  lies  in  a  fertile 
district,  on  a  ridge  between  the  Isuela  and  the  Alcanadre, 

From  Sarinena  a  road  leads  to  the  S.E.  to  (8Vs  M.)  ViUanneoa  de 
Sigena,  on  the  Alcanadre,  near  which  is  the  convent  of  Bigena,  founded 
in  1183  by  Alfonso  II.  of  Aragon  and  his  wife  Sancha  of  Castile.  The 
convent  has  interesting  Bomanesque  features  and  contains  the  tomb  of 
Dona  Sancha. 

The  railway  crosses  the  Alcanadre  by  a  viaduct  80  ft.  high,  and 
passes  through  a  tunnel.  62  M.  LastanosOy  in  a  bleak  and  lonely 
hill-district.  —  We  cross  the  Tormiiio  and  reach  (76V2  M.)  Sdgua^ 
a  poor  village  on  the  Cinca. 

A  branch- railway  (IS^/z  M.,  in  1  hr.)  connects  Selgua  wifli  Barbastro, 
an  ancient  and  decayed  see  with  7700  inhab.,  which  lies  on  the  r«*o,  to 
the  N.    The  Cathedral  dates  from  the  16th  century. 

Our  line  crosses  the  Cinta  by  an  iron  bridge,  with  three  arches, 
640  ft.  long.  —  79  M.  Hons6iL,  a  town  of  3700  inhab.,  the  name  of 
which  is  well  known  in  history  as  a  meeting-place  of  the  Cortes  of  Ara- 
gon and  Catalonia.  The  building  in  which  they  sat  is  now  the  Jutgo 
de  Pelota,  The  principal  church,  8an  Juan^  is  in  the  Gothic  style.  On 
a  hill  rising  steeply  over  the  town  is  a  conspicuous  old  castle,  which 
Ramon  Berenguer  IV.  of  Barcelona  assigned  to  the  Knights  Templar 
in  1143.  The  ruins  of  another  fortress,  on  a  lower  hill  close  by,  are 
referred  to  the  Roman  period.  According  to  Edmondo  de  Amicls, 
the  castle  and  town  of  Monz6n  Illustrate,  as  no  other  place  in  Spain, 
^the  timorous  submission  of  an  oppressed  people,  and  the  perpetual 
menace  of  a  ferocious  lord'. 

The  train  now  runs  to  the  S.E.  through  olive-groves  and  cross- 
es the  Sosa.  86^/2  M.  BhUfar  is  the  station  for  the  small  town  of 
Tamarite  de  Litera,  which  lies  about  7*/?  M.  to  the  N.E.  —  Far- 
ther on  we  traverse  a  bleak  district  and  cross  the  Calmdr^  which 
here  forms  the  boundary  between  Aragon  and  the  Catalonian  pro- 
vince of  Lirida. 

99  M.  AlmaceUas;  103  M.  Baymat,  in  the  Noguera^  a  richly  cul- 
tivated district,  watered  by  the  Segte  and  numerous  canals. 

114  m.  Lirida^  and  thence  to  Barcelona^  see  R.  17.  — From 
Le'rida  to  Beu$  and  Tarta/gona^  see  B.  22. 

14.  From  Saragossa  to  Reus  (Barcelona), 

148  M.    Railway  (one  throueh-train  daily)  in  71/4  hrs. ;  fares  37  p.  30, 

^'>  p.  66,  15  p.  15  c.  (to  Baredona,  213  M.,  in  IOV2  hrs. ;  fares  40  p.  75,  80  p.  66, 

0.  35  c).    A  daily  local  train  runs  from  Saragossa  to  Caap4^  and  another 

1  Reus  to  Barcelona.  The  Madrid-Saragossa-Barcelona  express,  mentioned 

.  151,  runs  thrice  weekly  from  Saragossa  to  Bureelona  in  about  7»/«  hrs. 


CASPS.  14,  Route.   181 

—  Ib  8«i»goiiA  Ihe  train*  tUrt  from  the  E$taei^  dtl  StpuUro  (p.  163),  in 
BMeelon*  from  the  JBataei^  dt  Fr<meia  (p.  194).  Detpaeho  Centrdl  at  Sara- 
gos«a.  Me  p.  168  i  at  Barcelona,  tee  p.  194.  —  Railway- restaurants  at  Sa- 
ragoua.  Mora  la  Nmoa^  and  Rmu. 

Saragosaa,  see  p.  163.  —  Tlie  train  sweeps  round  the  S.  side 
of  the  city  and  then  runs  to  the  S.E.  between  the  Ebro  (left) 
&nd  the  Canal  Imperiiil  (p.  173).  To  the  left  we  see  the  village  of 
Piutritf  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river ;  to  the  right,  in  the  distance, 
rise  the  Altos  dt  ValmadTidy  a  range  of  barren  hills.  —  lO'/s  ^* 
El  Bwrgo.  Adjacent,  on  the  Ebro,  is  Zaragota  la  Vieja^  a  mnch- 
▼isited  ermita. 

18  M.  Fuentes  dc  Ebro,  the  terminus  of  the  Canal  Imperial,  is  a 
gmUl  town  of  ^100  inhab.,  situated  on  the  OitUl^  not  far  from  the 
Ebro.  It  contains  the  handsome  palace  of  the  Counts  of  Fuentes.  — 
Farther  on,  to  the  left,  we  see  the  rillages  of  Oura  and  Aguilar 
de  Ebro^  both  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river.  —  22  M.  Pina  de  Ebro  ; 
the  small  town,  with  2600  Inhab.,  is  on  the  opposite  bank.  —  We 
now  cross  and  recross  the  Aeiquia  del  Quinio,  an  irrigatiou-oanal, 
and  run  through  olive-plantations  to  — 

27i/s  M.  dninto,  an  old  town  with  2400  inhab.  and  well-known 
saline  baths.  —  The  line  now  hugs  the  Ebro,  on  the  left  bank  of 
which  appears  the  little  town  of  OtUa.  Beyond  the  torrent  of  Lop{n 
we  reach  (36  M.)  La  Zaida,  —  The  train  turns  to  the  S.,  ascends 
along  the  brook  El  Aguai,  and  temporarily  enters  the  province  of 
Teruel.  From  (41  M.)  A%aila,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Aguas,  a 
road  runs  to  Eteairon,  with  its  alabaster  quarries,  situated  on  the 
Ebro  7Vs  M.  to  the  E.  The  line  now  crosses  a  tableland  named  the 
Meteta  de  Azaila. 

46  M.  Puebla  de  H^ar,  the  station  for  the  small  town  of  that 
name  (2100  inhab.),  which  lies  3  M.  to  the  S. 

From  Pueblo  de  H^ar  a  road  leads  through  the  Duierto  de  Calanda 
to  the  old  town  of  Alcafiix,  which  Ilea  on  the  Owidalope^  about  19  H.  to 
the  8.E.  Alcaniz,  the  AniiorgU  of  the  Iberians  and  the  Alcanit  of  the 
Moors,  was  the  scene  of  a  famous  battle  in  B.C.  212,  in  which  the  Car- 
thaginiane  under  Hasdrubal  Barca  defeated  the  Roman  army  and  slew  ite 
leaders  Gnieus  and  Pabliua  Cornelius  Scipio.  —  For  the  continuation  of 
the  road  via  (62  M.)  Morelta  to  Vtnardz^  see  p.  246. 

The  line  again  turns  towards  the  E.,  passes  (61  M.)  Samper  de 
Calanda,  and  crosses  the  Quadalope,  At  (63  M.)  Chiprofna  it  once 
roore  reaches  the  Ebro,  the  course  of  which  fromEscatron  (see  above) 
to  Caspe  is  very  circuitous. 

73  M.  Caspe,  a  poor  town  with  7100  inhab.,  lies  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Ebro,  within  the  province  of  Saragossa.  It  possesses  a 
good  Gothic  Colegiata.  —  A  little  below  Caspe  the  Ebro  sweeps 
round  to  the  N.  and  skirts  the  Sierra  de  Mequirunza^  a  range  belong- 
ing to  the  Catalonlan  coast-mountains.  At  (80^2  ^0  Eabara^  and 
again  at  (861/2  M.)  Nonaspe,  the  train  intersects  the  S.  spurs  of  this 
range.  At  (94  M.)  Fayon  it  regains  the  Ebro  and  enters  the  Catal- 
onlan province  of  Tarragona, 


182  Route  Id,  MARSA-FALSET. 

The  line  follows  the  right  bank  of  the  Ebro,  which  here  forces 
its  way  through  the  coast-ranges  of  Catalonia.  The  heights  on  the 
left  bank  belong  t<o  the  Sierra  de  la  Llena.  102  M.  Ribarroja-, 
iO^i/iU.  FUx   Hi  U.  A$c6, 

At  (119  M.)  Mora  la  Nueva  (Rail.  Restaurant)  we  cross  the  Ebro, 
which  flows  hence  due  S.  to  Tortosa  (p.  239\  and  proceed  to  the  E. 
through  a  fertile  and  well- tilled  region.  — 124  M.  QuiametS',  126  M. 
Capaanes, 

131  M.  ICarsa-Falset,  the  station  for  the  village  of  Marta 
and  the  small  town  of  FaUet  (3900  iiihabA  The  latter,  lying  in  a 
pretty  valley  on  the  slope  of  Monte  Mala  (8015  ft.),  a  S.  spur  of  the 
MonUani  (3510  ft.) ,  is  the  chief  place  in  the  rich  wine-growing 
district  of  El  Ptiorato ,  and  contains  a  ruined  castle  and  the  re- 
mains of  a  palace  of  the  Dukes  of  Medinaceli.  —  Farther  on,  the 
train  crosses  several  mountain  -  torrents.  134  M.  Pradeli-^  137  M. 
DosaiguoB-Argentera;  140  M.  Riudecahas-Botarell',  143  M.  Borjaa 
del  Campo, 

148  M.  ReuSf  and  thence  to  Barcelona^  see  R.  19a.  —  From  Reus 
to  Lirida  and  Tarragona ^  see  R.  22. 


m.  CATALONIA. 


15.  From  Perpignan  to  Barcelona 186 

From  Figaerat  to  Boaaa.  From  Figneraa  to  Caatellfullit 
and  Olot  188-  —  From  Empalme  to  Barcelona  by  the  In- 
land Railway,  190.  ^  From  OranoU^rs  to  RipoU  and  San 
Joan  de  laa  Abadeaaa,  191.  —  From  MoUet  to  Oaldaa  de 
Xontbay,  191,  193.  —  From  Empalme  to  Barcelona  by 
tbe  Goaat  BaUway,  192. 

16.  Barcelona 194 

17.  From  Bsreelont  to  L^rlda  (Saragossa,  Madrid')    .    .    .211 

Fh>m  Manreaa  to  Cardona,  213.  —  Bxcuraion  among  the 
E.  Pyreoeea  (Urgel,  Andorra),  217. 

18.  Tbe  Montaerrat 218 

a.  Route  via  Moniatrol,  219.  —  b.  Route  via  Collbat6,  221. 
—  c.  The  Monastery  and  i's  Neighbourhood,  223. 

19.  From  Barcelona  vifi  San  Vicente  de  Calders  to  Reus 
(Saragossa,  Madrid) 226 

a.  Coaat  Railway  ▼!&  Villanueva  y  Geltrti,  236.  —  Branch 
Railway  from  Roda  da  Bari  to  Picamoizona,  'i27.  —  b.  In- 
land Railway  via  Martorell,  22S.  —  Branch  Railway  from 
Harforell  to  Igualada,  229. 

20.  From  Barcelona  vifl  San  Vicente  de  Calders  to  Tarra- 
gona (Tortosa,  Valencia) 230 

21.  Tarragona 231 

22.  From  Tarragona  to  Ltfrida  via  Rens 237 

Bxenrsion  to  Poblet,  388. 

23.  From  Tarragona  to  Tortosa  (Valencia) 238 


Tlie  Ptmciipado  ck  Catalunaj  embracing  the  fonr  provinces  of 
Barcdonat  OerorMf  Urida,  and  Tarragona^  with  a  total  area  of 
12,430  sq.  M.  and  a  population  of  1,843,500,  forms  the  N.E.  corner 
of  the  Iberian  Peninsula.  As  a  whole  it  may  be  described  as  a  wild 
mountainous  district,  abutting  on  the  Pyrenees.  AU  the  principal 
rivers  have  their  sources  In  this  lofty  frontier-range.  The  JUohttgat 
MenoTy  FImM,  Ttt,  and  Bttds,  which  reach  the  Mediterranean  to 
the  N.  of  Barcelona,  are  mere  coast-rivers.  The  lAohregat  (the 
Roman  Rvbrieaiua)^  which  waters  the  fertile  Gampiua  of  Barcelona 
and  enters  the  sea  just  to  the  S.  of  that  city,  is  somewhat  more  im- 
portant. The  chief  river  of  Catalonia  is,  however,  the  8egre  (Sieoris)^ 
which  joins  the  Ebro  at  Mequinenza  and  adds  much  the  larger  vol- 
ume of  water  (especially  in  summer)  to  the  united  stream.  Below 
the  junction  the  Ebro  (Hiberus)  breaks  through  the  mountains  in 
the  S.  part  of  the  province  of  Tarragona  and  forms  a  spacious  delta 
at  its  mouth  to  the  E.  of  Tortosa.  The  only  navigable  part  of  it  is 
that  below  Tortosa.  * 


J  84  CATALONIA. 

There  are  no  great  mountain-ranges  in  Catalonia,  and  its  moun- 
tain-scenery is  seldom  picturesque.  Among  its  isolated  summits,  ris- 
ing here  and  there  like  islands,  are  the  Montseny  (^5690  ft) ,  the 
celebrated  lfon««frrat  (4060  ft.),  the  Montagut  (3125  it.),  and  the 
Montsant  (3616  ft.),  the  last  two  lying  farther  to  the  S.  The  snow- 
clad  Pyrenees,  though  beyond  the  boundaries  of  the  province,  form 
an  important  factor  in  the  scenic  views  of  its  N.  portion ;  the  most 
conspicuous  peaks  are  the  Canigou(QiS6  ft.),  the Maranges  (9660 ft.), 
and  the  Carlitte  (9686  ft).  Towards  the  Mediterranean,  in  the  r^. 
part  of  the  province,  spreads  the  plain  of  El  Ampurdun,  and  the 
plains  of  Gerona  and  Vich  may  also  be  mentioned.  The  W.  part  of 
Catalonia  resembles  in  its  geological  formation  the  barren  districts 
of  clay  and  marl  in  the  adjoining  province  of  Aragon ;  but  the  Catal- 
onians,  true  to  their  national  proverb  (^Los  CaXalanet  de  Uu  piedrat 
sacan  panes,  i.e.  'produce  bread  from  stones'),  manage,  by  dint 
of  artiflciaf  watering,  to  win  rich  crops  from  this  unpromising  soil, 
especially  in  the  Llano  del  Vrgelj  the  Noguera,  and  the  Fontanat. 

The  valleys  of  the  Pyrenees,  which  feed  large  herds  of  sheep, 
goats,  and  hogs,  also  produce  large  quantities  of  serviceable  timber. 
On  the  lower  slopes  grow  evergreen  and  felt-leaved  oaks  (Quercus 
Ilex  and  Q.  Tozza),  farther  up  are  firs  and  pines  (Pinus  pyrenaica, 
P.  silvestris,  P.  abies),  and  in  the  highest  zone  of  vegetation  are 
box-wood  and  Alpine  shrubs.  Nearer  the  coast  grow  olive-trees, 
vines,  fig-trees,  nut-trees,  agaves,  cacti,  orange-trees,  date-palms, 
aud  carob-trees.  The  quick-flowing  streams  supply  the  motive  power 
for  numerous  mills  and  factories. 

The  Catalan  presses  all  nature  into  his  service.  Like  the  Basque, 
he  is  a  bom  man  of  business,  forming  a  striking  contrast  to  the  slow- 
moving  Castilian  and  the  lazy  Andalusian,  who  are  mere  tillers  of 
the  soil  and  are  content  with  the  satisfaction  of  the  most  elementary 
desires.  Thus  the  Catalan  is  a  strong  protectionist,  while  the  corn 
and  wine  districts  are  inclined  to  free  trade.  He  supplies  a  great 
part  of  Spain  with  paper,  soap,  iron  ware,  and  the  products  of  his 
textile  factories.  Thousands  of  busy  female  hands  are  occupied  in 
making  lace  for  mantillas.  The  Catalan  is  keenly  alive  to  the  main 
chance,  and  the  *gran  caballero  Don  Dinero'  bulks  as  largely  in  his 
eyes  as  the  *Almighty  Dollar'  is  said  to  do  in  those  of  our  Trans- 
atlantic cousins.  Like  the  Swiss,  he  wanders  through  the  lands  of 
both  hemispheres,  in  the  hope  of  returning  as  a  rich  man  to  his  home. 
All  that  lies  beyond  the  frontier  of  his  native  province  is  foreign 
land  to  the  Catalan,  and  not  least  'fispana  Uniforme',  with  its  central- 
isation, and  the  'Corte'  of  Madrid,  with  its  superficial  polish.  He 
considers  Barcelona  not  only  the  wealthiest  city  of  Spain  (which,  in 
fact,  it  is)  but  also  the  largest  and  the  handsomest  He  avoids  speak- 
ing Spanish,  or,  as  he  calls  it,  'Castilian',  and  revels  in  the  ^melody* 
of  his  Catalan  tongue,  which  is  spoken  not  only  throughout  Catalonia 
■^ut  in  tBe  greater  part  of  Valencia,  the  Balearic  Isles,  and  to  the  N. 


CATALONIA.  185 

M  far  as  Andorra  and  Ronssillon.  This  language  closely  resembles 
the  Provencal  or  Limonsin,  and  is  one  of  the  roughest  of  Romanesque 
dialecta.  like  Catalan,  however,  writes  poetry  and  even  scientific 
works  in  this  unlovely  speech,  and  boasts  of  the  CataianismOj  or 
Catalan  literature  t. 

The  modem  Catalonians  are  the  issue  of  a  most  composite 
ancestry.  In  their  veins  the  old  Iberian  blood  mingles  with  that  of 
Greeks,  Carthaginians,  Romans,  Goths,  Arabs,  and  Gauls.  Their 
natural  affiliations  long  attracted  them  towards  their  neighbours  in 
the  S.  provinces  of  France ;  and  it  was  only  the  War  of  Independence 
against  Napoleon  that  made  them  politically  Spaniards.  They  still, 
however,  cherish  a  traditional  antagonism  to  the  Castilians,  and  are 
always  ready  for  revolt  in  the  form  of  subUvaeione,  motine,  somatene, 
or  prommeicanmto.  Their  wish  long  was,  and  perhaps  still  is,  that 
Catalonia  should  be  made  independent,  or,  at  least,  that  they  should 
enjoy  their  old  futfros,  the  abolition  of  the  Quinta  (p.  4),  and  other 
privileges  of  E^pana  Foral  (privileged  Spain).  As  a  province  of  £«- 
pana  AatmUada  (incorporated  Spain),  the  only  independent  institu- 
tions Catalonia  now  retains  are  the  provincial  police  (cscuadraj  and 
the  militia  (iomaUn), 

The  History  op  Catalonia  affords  plausible  grounds  for  such 
demands.  Even  under  the  Romans  Hitpania  TarraconcMia  was  the 
kernel  of  the  Iberian  possessions.  After  a  temporary  occupation  by  the 
Visigoths,  to  whom,  perhaps,  the  district  owes  its  name(Gotaulania?), 
It  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Moors.  These  in  turn  were  compelled 
to  abandon  it,  and  from  the  time  of  St.  Louis  onwards  Catalonia 
formed  part  of  the  Frankish  kingdom  under  the  name  of  the  Spanish 
Mark.  Wilfrid  the  Shaggy  ( Velludo  or  Velloso),  governor  in  the 
reign  of  Charles  the  Bald,  threw  off  the  yoke  of  the  West  Frankish 
aonarch  (874)  and  established  the  independent  Condado  de  Barce- 
lona. The  Catalans  had  at  this  time  established  the  reputation,  which 
they  &tiU  hold,  of  being  among  the  boldest  and  most  skilful  mar- 
iners of  Europe.  From  Count  Ramon  Berenguer  I.  (1035-76)  the 
land  received  an  admirable  code  of  laws,  the  celebrated  C6digo  de 
lo$  U§atjes  de  CaUUuna.  in  1149,  on  the  marriage  of  Ramon  Beren- 
guer IV.  with  Petronila ,  daughter  and  heiress  of  King  Ramiro  II. 
(^el  Monje'),  Catalonia  was  united  with  Aragon;  and  on  the  marriage 
of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella  (1469)  both  these  countries  were  incor- 
porated with  Castile.  After  the  conquest  of  Granada  (149'2)  Catal- 
onia ranked  simply  as  one  of  the  provinces  of  a  United  Spain.  Dur- 
ing the  War  of  the  Spanish  Succession  Catalonia  espoused  the 
cause  of  the  Austrians.    The  sufferings  of  Barcelona  at  this  epoch 


•]■  The  pronanclation  of  this  dialect  differs  in  many  reapeets  from 
Spanish.  Thna  eh  at  the  end  of  a  word  sounds  like  ifc,  g  and  J  are  pro- 
Bonneed  as  in  French,  ig  i>fter  a  vowel  is  pronounced  like  the  Scottish  gut- 
tural ch  (paig  =  puch),  ny  like  the  Spanish  »,  and  x  like  sh.  The  Castil- 
i&n  ca$a  del,  ctua  de  la,  and  casa  de  are  represented  by  eoJ,  ca  la,  and  can. 


186   Route  15.  PEBPIGNAN.  From  Perpignan 

aie  borne  witness  to  by  its  coins  bearing  the  legend  ^Barclno  dvitas 
obsessa'  (1714).  The  Bourbon  king  Philip  V.  wrote  of  the  citizens : 
'ils  sont  iMuits  ^  cinq  onces  de  viande  de  cheval  I'autre  jour,  et  ils 
ne  parlent  pas  de  se  rendre'.  Still  greater  heroism  was  shown  in 
1809  by  Gerona,  a  worthy  rival  of  Saragossa. 

Of  all  the  provinces  of  Spain,  Catalonia  makes  the  most  'European* 
impression.  In  a  fi;eneral  way  it  resembles  Italy,  though  its  scenery 
is  much  less  attractive.  The  charms  of  the  valleys  of  the  Pyrenees  are 
difficult  of  access,  and  are  more  conveniently  reached  from  the 
French  side  of  the  range.  The  Montseny  has  scarcely  ever  been 
ascended  by  tourists,  though  the  view  it  commands  is  even  more 
extensive  than  that  £rom  the  Montserrat 


15.  From  Perpignan  to  Barcelona. 

131-134  H .  Railway  (one  express  and  one  ordinary  train  daily)  in  5V4-10 
hrs.  (fares  27  fr.  20,  20  fr.  20,  12  fr.  80  c).  As  far  as  Fort-Bou,  the  Spanish 
frontier-station  (^4-2  hrs.},  the  train  is  in  the  hands  of  the  CJiemin  de  Fer 
du  Midi  (in  the  reverse  direction  from  Cerbkve,  the  French  frontier-station) ; 
thence  to  Barcelona  (41/4-6V2  hrs.)  it  is  run  by  the  GompafUa  de  los  Ferro- 
carrilet  de  Tarragona  a  Barcelona  y  Francia  (fares  22  p.  20,  16  p.  80, 10  p. 
75  c).  Beyond  Empalme  the  express  follows  the  inland  line,  while  six 
local  trains  run  from  this  point  to  Barcelona,  three  on  each  line  (comp. 
pp.  190, 192).  —  Carriages  are  changed  and  Inggage  is  examined  at  Port-Bon 
(or  Cerb^re),  where  a  detention  of  about  1  hr.  takes  place  (comp.  pp.  xii,  xiii). 
There  are  money-changers'  offices  and  restaurants  at  both  Port-Bou  and 
Gerbere;  and  there  are  also  railway-restaurants  at  Oerona^  Empalme^  and 
Barcelona.  —  For  the  Spanish  railways,  time-tables,  etc.,  see  pp.  xv-xvii. 

Ferpignan  is  reached  by  express  from  Lyons  in  9-10  hrs.,  from  Mar- 
eeiUes  in  7  hrs. 

Perpignan  (80  ft.;  Orand  H6tel  de  Perpignan;  H6U  de  France; 
Hot,  du  Nord  et  du  Petit-Paris,  and  others},  the  closely  built  old 
capital  of  the  Counts  of  Roussillon  and  now  of  the  department  of 
the  Pyr^ii^es  Orientales,  is  a  fortress  of  the  first  class  and  lies  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  Tet^  V2  ^'  ^^^^  *^«  railway-station.  Pop. 
83,900.  The  older  part  of  the  town  still  retains  in  many  respects 
a  decidedly  Spanish  character.  Spanish  influence  may  also  be 
traced  in  the  bold  span  of  the  nave  and  in  other  parts  of  the 
Caihedraly  which  was  founded  in  1324  and  completed  in  the  16th 
century.  Among  the  other  old  buildings  the  most  interesting  are 
the  CastiUet  of  1319  (now  a  prison)  and  the  Loge  or  Lonja,  dating 
from  the  end  of  the  14th  cent,  and  now  occupied  by  the  Mairie  and 
a  cafe.  The  University  contains  a  small  gallery  of  paintings,  sculp- 
tures, and  drawings. 

6V2  M.  ComeiUa.  —  8  M.  Elne,  the  ancient  iMtfterw,  with  a 
cathedral  of  the  12- 15th  cent,  and  fine  Romanesque  cloisters.  — 
The  train  crosses  the  Tech.  10  M.  Palau-del-  Vidre;  13  V2  M.  Argelhs- 
sur-Mer.  The  line  approaches  the  sea  and  tunnels  through  the 
Monts  AVblres,  the  E.  foot-hills  of  the  Pyrenees.  —  17  M.  CoUioure, 
the  ancient  Cauco  lIMeris^   picturesquely  situated  on  the  coast, 


to  Barcelona.  PORT-BOU.  15,  Route,    187 

with  an  old  castle.  Tunnel.  —  18  M.  Port-Vendre$  (R6t,  Durand), 
the  Fortus  VenerU  of  the  Romans,  with  an  excellent  haiboor  and 
good  sea-hathing.  Three  more  tunnels  are  threaded,  and  fine  views 
of  the  sea  are  enjoyed.  —  21  M.  BanyuU-aur^Mer^  celebrated  for 
its  wine.  —  Beyond  two  more  tunnels  the  train  reaches  {2b^l*i  M.) 
Cerb^re  {^BaU.  Rettaurant,  dtfj.  3,  D.  31/2  fr-t  &l80  rooms),  the  last 
French  station  and  seat  of  the  French  cnstom-house.  Luggage  arriv- 
ing from  Spain  is  examined  here. 

The  railway  now  passes  in  a  tunnel  through  the  Col  dea  Balistrea 
(^Catalan,  dels  Belliuttret)^  which  here  forms  the  boundary  between 
France  and  Spain. 

27  M.  Port-Bon  (Bail,  BettaurantJ,  the  first  Spanish  station, 
with  a  small  harbour  and  the  Spanish  custom-house  (Aduana), 
Travellers  should  defer  their  visit  to  the  buffet  till  after  their  sum- 
mons for  the  inspection  of  the  baggage. 

Soon  after  leaving  Port-Bou  we  pass  through  a  tunnel,  beyond 
which  we  obtaiu  a  grand  view  of  the  sea  and  Cape  Creus,  The  train 
crosses  the  Barrancas  (^raviues)  de  la  Balca  and  del  Marqu/s.  At 
(29  M.)  CuUra  we  cross  the  ^riera'  of  that  name,  and  a  little  later 
that  of  Oarhet,  Two  tunnels.  Among  the  signs  that  we  have  fairly 
entered  Catalonia  are  the  water-wheels  (ndricu)^  the  hedges  of  aloe, 
and  the  picturesque  costume  of  the  people,  including  the  red  caps 
(haraUnoSj  gorrosjj  sandals  (espardenas^  alpargatas),  black  velvet 
knee-breeches,  red  sashes  (faja),  and  shawls  (tapa-hoca). 

31  M.  iMinsdy  the  church-tower  of  which  resembles  a  fortress. 
The  railway  quits  the  shore  and  threads  two  tunnels.  —  36  M. 
VUajuiga^  with  the  castle  of  Caramanso.  Here  also  are  two  char- 
acteristic Catalonian  bell-towers,  consisting  simply  of  plain  walls, 
with  openings  in  which  the  bells  hang.  To  the  right  we  have  superb 
views  ot  the  snow-clad  Pyrenees  (Canigou^  Castabonncj  PuigmcU, 
etc.),  with  the  deep  gap  of  the  Col  de  Portus  (Perthus)^  over  which 
Hannibal  marched  in  the  spring  of  B.C.  218.  To  the  left  are  Cape 
Creus  and  Cape  Norf^o.  The  wide  and  fertile  plain  which  the  rail- 
way now  traverses  is  the  wine-producing  Ampurddn^  which  derives 
its  name  from  the  ancient  Emporiae  (Ampurias,  see  p.  188).  It  is 
watered  by  the  Llobregat  MenoTj  the  Muga,  the  Manol^  and  the 
Fluxi&,  all  of  which  the  train  crosses.  —  39V2  M.  Perelada. 

43  M.  Signeras  (Fonda  del  Comercio),  the  chief  place  of  the 
Amjmrdan,  is  an  uninteresting  town  with  9300  inhab^  and  much 
exposed  to  fever  in  summer.  The  pentagonal  Castillo  de  San  Fer- 
nando (480  ft.),  built  by  Cermiuo  under  Ferdinand  VI.,  occupies 
the  site  of  an  old  Capuchin  convent.  Ou  the  last  Mon.  in  May  or  the 
first  Mon.  in  June  Figueras  is  the  starting-point  of  El  Ptofaso  de  la 
Tramontana,  a  processional  pilgrimage  which  has  for  its  goal  the 
Ermita  de  NueHra  Senora  de  Bequesens^  situated  among  the  moun- 
tains 15  M.  to  the  N.    It  commemorates  a  similar  pilgrimage  iu 


188   Route  15.  GERONA.  From  Perpignan 

1612,  which  resulted  iii  the  chasing  away  of  a  severe  fever  epidemic 
by  the  Tramontana  (N.  wind).   The  celebrations  last  three  days. 

A  diligence  plies  from  Figueras  to  Roaas,  the  aacieot  Rhode  ^  a  small 
seaport  10  H.  to  the  £.,  which  gives  its  name  to  the  galf  formed  here. 
About  halfway  to  it  is  the  Cattdlon  de  Ampurias,  the  name  of  which 
recalls  Emporiae^  an  ancient  Greek  colony  on  the  Gulf  of  Rosas. 

Another  diligence  runs  to  the  S.W.  up  the  valley  of  the  Fluvi^  to 
Ccutellfullit  de  la  Roca  and  Olot^  which  form  the  geologically  interesting 
centre  of  a  volcanic  system  even  yet  active.  'The  eocene  tertiary  form- 
ation in  the  floor  of  the  valley  is  penetrated  by  volcanic  eruptions  of 
a  basaltic  character.  Above  these  rise  14  eruptive  peaks,  some  of  which, 
such  as  the  Monte  de  Santa  Margarita  and  the  Bosch  de  Tosea^  of  perfectly 
conical  form  and  with  well-preserved  craters,  have  poured  large  masses 
of  lava  over  the  tertiary  deposits.  Several  of  these  extinct  volcanoes  have 
fissures  and  holes,  through  which  air  is  expelled  with  great  violence  and 
noise.  Such  blow-holes  are  named  bvfadors  by  the  natives.  Castellfullit 
itself  lies  on  the  surface  of  a  stream  of  basaltic  lava,  which  consista  of 
five  strata  of  columnar  lava  piled  one  above  another  like  the  stories  of  a 
house'  (Willkomtn). 

47  M.  VilamaUa;  48V2  M.  Tonyd;  60  M.  San  Miguel  de  Fluvid, 
with  an  old  Romanesque  tower.  We  cross  the  Fluvid,  The  geolog- 
ical formations  are  mainly  sandstone  and  breccia.  —  64^/2  M.  Ca- 
marella.  The  train  descends  into  the  fruitful  valley  of  the  Ter. 
57  M.  San  Jo-di.  From  (59  M.)  Flaasa  diligences  run  to  La  Bi^al 
and  the  naval  harbour  of  Pdlamos  (Brit,  vice-consul).  —  61  M.  Bor- 
dils-Juydf  6372  M.  Cdrd,  To  the  right  is  Sarrid,  with  a  large  stone 
bridge,  above  which  rise  the  Costa  Roja  and  (farther  on)  the  conical 
Roca  Corba  (3026  ft).  The  train  skirts  the  N.  side  of  Gerona  and 
crosses  the  Ona,  which  here  joins  the  Ter  and  is  flanked  with  bal- 
conied houses.  The  station  lies  in  the  S.W.  part  of  the  town. 

69^2  M'  Gerona  (616  ft.  j  Fonda  Jtaliana^,  a  quaint  old  town 
with  16,600  inhab.,  lies  between  the  Ter  on  the  N.,  the  bleak  forti- 
fied height  of  Montjvich  on  the  N.E.,  and  the  Ona  on  the  W.  It 
lies  partly  in  the  plain,  and  partly  spreads  in  the  form  of  an  amphi- 
theatre over  the  slopes  of  the  Montjuich.  A  bridge  over  the  Ona 
connects  the  old  town  with  the  suburb  of  El  Mereadal.  The  QaUi" 
gana  flows  through  the  town  and  into  the  Ofia. 

The  ancteat  name  of  the  town  was  Oerunday  and  the  Arabs,  into  whose 
hands  it  fell  in  713,  called  it  DJenmda.  Charlemagne  took  it  firom  the 
Moors  in  785,  but  they  recaptured  and  plundered  it  ten  years  later.  It 
was  restored  by  the  Counts  of  Barcelona.  After  the  union  of  Catalonia 
and  Aragon  Cp-  185)  the  crown-prince  bore  the  title  of  *Principe  de  Gerona\ 
In  consequence  of  its  adherence  to  ttie  Hapsburg^,  Gerona  was  deprived 
of  its  university  aad  privileges  at  the  end  of  the  Spanish  War  of  Succes- 
sion. The  heroic  defence  of  tbe  town  in  1609  is  celebrated.  A  small 
Spanish  garrison,  aided  by  a  handful  of  English  volunteers,  resisted  for 
seven  long  months  a  French  army  of  35,000  men  under  Verdier,  St.  Cyr, 
and  Augereau  ^  and  it  was  famine  and  the  complete  lack  of  ammunition 
only  that  finally  caused  its  surrender  on  De?.  12th.  Even  the  women  shared 
in  the  heroism  of  the  defenders.  Mariano  Alvarez,  who  comzoanded  the 
garrison,  was  latterly  prostrated  by  the  strain  of  the  defence  and  died  the 
following  year  (1810).  He  was  succeeded  by  Samanieffo.  The  French  lost 
15,000  men  during  the  siege. 

In  addition  to  its  beautiful  site  and  the  fine  view  from  its  citadel, 
Gerona  also  possesses  a  good  deal  of  architectural  interest. 


ioBarrelona,  GERONA.  75.  Route.    1S9 

The  Gothie  ^CATiniDBAL  wts  begun  In  1912  on  the  site  of  an 
etxlier  clinreb,  which  had  been  reconsecrated  in  1088,  after  the 
expnision  of  the  Moors.  The  first  part  completed  was  the  apse, 
which  was  constmcted,  after  the  plan  of  Barcelona  Cathedral,  with 
an  ambnlatory  and  nine  radiating  chapels.  Enrique  of  Nafhotme 
and  JaccfO  de  FavarUt  of  the  same  town  are  named  as  architects ; 
and  BarOiolomi  Argenta  completed  this  part  of  the  church  in  1326- 
46.  In  1416  OuUlermo  Boffly  made  the  plan  for  the  huge  alslele ss 
nave ;  but  his  design  seemed  so  bold  to  the  cathedral  chapter,  that 
they  had  it  examined  by  a  special  junta  of  architects  before  adopting 
it  The  nave  was  not  finished  till  well  on  in  the  16th  cent.  (1579?). 
The  campanile  was  begun  in  1581 ;  the  facade,  which  is  preceded 
by  a  flight  of  86  steps,  dates  from  1607  and  was  modernized  in 
1733.  The  terracotta  figures  of  apostles  at  the  S.  side-door  were 
executed  in  1458. 

IvTBBiom.  The  span  of  the  naTe  ie  73  ft.  t,  without  counting  the  side 
ehapels  between  the  hnge  buttresses.  Unfortunately  the  eflTect  of  its  fine 
proportiODS  is  marred  by  the  intrusion  of  the  coro.  The  sUleria  dates 
from  the  14th  cent,  but  was  modernised  in  the  16th.  The  CapiUa  Metyor 
contains  the  elaborate  high-altar,  of  1820-48,  which  is  of  wood,  covered 
with  thin  plates  of  silver,  and  adorned  with  gilding  and  coloured  stones. 
It  is  diTided  into  three  stages  of  niches,  containing  reliefs,  and  stands 
under  a  canopy  of  similar  workmanship,  borne  by  four  columns.  The 
charch  contslns  numerous  tombs  and  monoments.  Among  the  most  in- 
teresting are  those  of  Biahop  Bereng^ur  (d.  1406),  in  the  capilla  mayor,  to 
the  left:  of  CoMNl  Ramon  Berengtter  II.  (d.  1062),  dating  from  the  end  of 
the  14th  cent.,  above  the  door  of  the  sacristy;  the  Counteu  ErmemndU 
(d.  1057),  between  the  chapels  of  Corpus  Christi  and  San  Juan;  Bitftop 
Ang^e$oia;  and  Bernardo  de  Pau^  one  of  the  founders  of  the  chnrch.  in  tlie 
ChApel  of  St.  Paul  (first  to  the  left  of  the  main  entrance  \  monument  of  the 
16th  cent.).  On  the  V.  wall  is  the  wheel  of  be' Is  used  at  the  elevation  of 
the  host,  in  a  tasteful  wooden  case. 

The  irregular  Romanesque  Gloistsbs  (Cknutro)  date  from  the  beginning 
of  the  llhh  century.  The  Cementirio  de  loe  UTegroe  contains  old  inscriptions 
and  tombstones.  Among  the  treasures  of  the  Archive  and  the  Sola  Capitular 
are  several  processional  crosses  (guiones)  of  the  16-16th  cent. ;  a  copy  of 
the  Apoealypse  of  974:  and  a  Bible  belonging  to  Charlea  V.  of  France, 
illuminated  by  Bernardo  de  Hutina  (18th  cent.),  some  of  the  initials  of 
which  are  adorned  with  the  Arabic  words  for  ^Ood  is  our  refuge". 

A  little  to  the  S.  of  the  cathedral  is  the  conspicuous  collegiate 
church  of  San  FsLfu,  which  is  in  the  Transitional  style,  though  the 
choir  was  not  finished  till  1318.  At  the  W.  end  are  two  octagonal 
towers,  one  of  which  is  unfinished,  while  the  other  ends  iu  a  trunc- 
ated spire  (1392).  To  the  E.  the  church  ends  in  a  semii-ircular  apse, 
which  is  adjoined  by  a  smaller  apse  on  the  N.  and  two  small  apses 
on  the  S. 

Ihtsbiob.  Embedded  in  the  walls  of  the  choir  are  eight  sarcophrtgi, 
two  of  which  are  Boman  (Rape  of  Proserpine,  Lion  Hunt),  while  the  other 
six  are  early-Ohrittian  and  bear  Biblical  scenes.  The  painted  and  gilded 
sarcophagus  above  the  high-altar  contains  the  remains  of  St.  Felix.  — 
The  cloisters  date  from  13o7-68. 


t  The  nave  of  York  Cathedral  is  52  ft.  wide,  that  of  Notre  Dame  48  ft., 
that  of  Cologne  Cathedral  U  ft.,  that  of  Toulouse  Cathedral  63  ft. 


190   Route  15.  MONTSENY.  From  Pemgnan 

To  theW.  of  tlie  cathedral  is  the  Romanesqne  church  of  San  Pedro 
de  lo8  OcUligans,  the  plan  of  which  resembles  that  of  San  Felfn.  Its 
E.  end  is  incorporated  in  the  newer  line  of  city-walls,  of  which  its 
apse  actually  forms  a  bulwark.  The  W.  door  has  some  flue  carving. 
The  cloisters  of  this  church  are  fitted  up  as  the  Museo  Provincial, 
containing  architectural  remains,  Roman  and  Christian  tombs ,  and 
other  sculptures. — Between  the  churches  of  SanFeliu  and  San  Pedro 
is  a  Capuchin  nunnery,  containing  the  so-called  BanoaAra&e*  (Moorish 
baths),  a  small  octagonal  building  with  columns,  which  was  probably 
built  as  a  Christian  chapel. 

From  Gerona  diligencea  run  to  tbe  W.  to  Angks^  in  the  vallev  of  the 
Ter;  to  the  8.E.  to  San  Felitt  de  GuixoU  (U.  8.  Cons.  Agent,  Jose  Sibils), 
on  the  sea-coast;  and  to  the  N.W.  to  Olot  (p.  188). 

CoNTiNTTATioN  OF  RAILWAY.  The  tiaiu  swecps  round  to  the  W. 
and  then  follows  the  valley  of  the  Ofia  towards  the  S.  —  72  M.  FomeUs. 
To  the  right  are  the  Monies  de  San  HUario,  to  the  left  the  Monies 
Odbdrras,  The  fertile  district  is  sprinkled  with  small  pine-woods. 
—  76V2  M.  RiudeU6t8  de  la  SeUa.    We  cross  the  Ofia. 

79  M.  Caldas  de  Malavella,  on  the  Riera  de  Caldas^  with  thermal 
springs  (150®  Fahr.),  known  to  the  Romans  and  containing  chlorine, 
potash,  and  magnesia.  The  season  ftemperada')  lasts  from  May  15th 
to  Oct.  15th.  —  The  scenery  is  attractive,  and  woods  abound. 

82 V2  M.  Sils  lies  near  a  large  marshy  lake,  which  is  a  fruitful 
source  of  fever.  A  diligence  runs  hence  to  (6  M.)  Santa  Coloma  de 
FamSs,  beautifully  situated  on  the  Montes  de  San  Hilario.  —  The 
railway  follows  the  W.  bank  of  the  lake  and  the  canal  which  drains 
it  and  crosses  the  Riera  de  Santa  Coloma. 

87  M.  Empalme  (Rail.  Restaurant),  a  junction  where  the  railway 
forks  into  the  Linea  Interior  (see  below)  and  the  Linea  del  Litoral 
(see  p.  192),  both  running  to  Barcelona  and  reaching  it  at  the  same 
terminus  (comp.  pp.  186,  194). 

The  Inland  Line  skirts  the  N.W.  slope  of  the  Sierra  de  Nuestra 
Senora  de  Corredo  and  for  a  time  ascends  along  the  left  bank  of  the 
small  river  Tordera.  90  M.  ffostalrich,  a  closely  built  little  town, 
picturesquely  situated  on  a  hill  rising  from  the  Tordera  and  com- 
manded by  a  fort.  Some  of  the  houses  are  built  against  the  old  city 
walls,  in  which  windows  have  been  inserted.  The  strength  of  the 
natural  position  and  of  the  fortifications  of  this  picturesque  little 
town  has  made  it  figure  prominently  in  the  contests  between  France 
and  Spain  and  in  the  Catalonian  revolutions. 

The  dominant  feature  of  the  scenery  from  this  point  almost  all 
the  way  to  Barcelona  is  the  (right)  ^Montseny  (5690  ft.),  an  im- 
posing serrated  mountain-ridge,  describing  a  semicircle  round  the 
valley  of  the  Tordera.  It  is  generally  capped  with  snow.  The  ascent 
is  usually  made  from  ArbUdas,  to  which  a  diligence  runs  from 
Hostalrlch.  —  We  now  cross  the  'rambla'  of  Arbucias  and  reach 
(94  M.)  Breda.  To  the  right  is  tbe  old  castle  of  AfomoKu.—  96  M. 


to  Barcelofi^.  GRANOLLfiRS.  16.  Route.    191 

OuaJEba^  the  first  station  in  the  province  of  Barcelona.  —  We  now  cross 
the  Rambla  de  Partagds  and  reach  (98^/2  M.)  San  CtUyni^  an  old 
eommandery  of  the  Templars.  —  100  M.  Falautordera.  To  the  W.,  in 
an  attractive  plain,  is  the  village  of  Santa  Maria  de  Palautordera,  The 
train  crosses  the  Rawbla  de  Trenta  Fasos  and  enters  the  fertile  valley 
of  the  Mogeni,  106M.  LUnda;  IO7V2M.  Cardedea.  We  now  descend 
the  slopes  of  the  Corro  and  enter  the  populous  district  of  ValUs, 
watered  hy  the  Mogent  and  the  Congott.    Its  central  point  is  — 

112  M.  Oraaomn  del  YaU^B,  an  industrial  town  with  6800  in- 
hab.,  which  ha«  no  special  attractions  of  its  own  but  is  a  good  centre 
for  excursions. 

The  most  iniereating  of  these  is  that  to  San  Migml  del  Fay.,  an  Im- 
posing basaltic  amphitheatre,  watered  by  the  Miguel  and  containing  an 
abandoned  convent  and  some  fine  waterfalls,  at  the  foot  of  one  of  which 
is  the  church  of  Bt.  Michael  of  Fay.  Adjacent  is  a  cavern  with  beautiful 
stalactites.  Other  points  visited  from  Granoll^rs  are  the  castle  of  Xa 
Roea  (21/iM.),  the  Somaaesque  chareh  of  San  FeHu  ds  CanovelUu  (IM.), 
and  the  ermita  of  Ifuestra  Smora  de  BMula ,  which  commands  a  view  of 
the  Hontserrat  (p.  218). 

FsoM  GxAVOLL^Bs  TO  San  Jdam  dk  LA8  Abadsus,  56  M.,  railway  in 
3i/2-5>/4  hrs.  (fares  10  p.  5,  7  p.  56,  4  p.  65  c.)-  In  the  height  of  summer 
an  express  runs  direct  from  Barcelona  to  San  Juan  in  4  hrs.  —  The  line 
runs  towards  the  If.,  at  first  following  the  Congest.  2  H.  Las  Franqueseu; 
5>/«  M.  La  Garriga.  To  the  right  rises  the  Montseny.  8  M.  Figard;  12  M. 
San  Martin  de  Centelku;  15  M.  CentelUu,  with  a  Benai^sanee  church,  pic- 
turesquely situated  on  the  Pidg  da  Oiler.  Xear  (18Vs  M.)  Balenyd  are  Tona 
and  CoUsuepina^  two  villages  celebrated  for  their  cheese. 

25  M.  Tieh  (1675  ft.),  an  old  town  and  bishop's  see  with  9100  inhab., 
is  situated  on  both  aides  of  the  Merder,  a  small  affluent  of  the  Ter.  The 
Cathedral^  founded  in  1040  and  modernized  in  1803,  contains  a  fine  old 
marble  altar,  with  scenes  from  the  life  of  St.  Peter.  The  Gothic  cloisters 
of  the  14th  cent,  are  renowned  for  the  exquisite  tracery  in  their  windows. 
The  chapter-library  has  some  valuable  MSS.  The  important  Episcopal 
Mtueo  Arqueoldgieo  Jrtietico^  containing  antiquities,  pictures,  sculptures, 
etc.,  deserves  a  visit.  —  Beyond  Vich,  to  the  left,  is  the  village  of  OiUb^ 
above  which,  on  the  Monte  Salvador.,  is  a  ruined  castle. 

The  railway  now  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Ter.  30 V*  M.  Manlleu; 
36  H.  ToreUd ;  40V2  M.  San  Qidrico.    We  enter  the  province  of  Gerona. 

48  M.  Bipoll  (2220  ft.),  a  small  town  with  2800  inhab.  and  important 
coal-pits ,  has  been  rebuilt  since  its  misfortunes  in  the  Garlist  wars.  Its 
chief  lion  is  the  fine  Chweh  of  the  Benedictine  Convent  (now  suppressed), 
which  was  erected  by  Wilfrid  the  Shaggy  (p.  185)  aa  the  burial-place  of 
the  Ck>unts  of  Barcelona  and  Besalu.  The  massive  nave  dates  from  the 
9- 10th  cent.,  the  transept  and  apse  from  the  11th,  the  side-chapels,  mon- 
uments, and  altars  from  the  12-15th,  and  the  choir  from  the  16th  eentury. 
The  W.  facade  is  covered  with  sculptures.  The  Romanesque  cloisters  have 
112  arches  and  are  in  two  stories.  —  From  Ripoll  bridle-paths  lead  to 
Puigeerdd  and  Seo  de  Urgel  (p.  217). 

55  X.  San  Juan  de  lot  Abadescu^  the  terminus  of  the  railway,  with 
large  iron  and  coal  mines.  —  A  road  leads  hence  to  Camprodon  (3770  ft.), 
which  lies  at  the  junction  of  the  Val  de  Ter  and  the  Val  de  Riiori,  two 
wild  and  little  explored  valleys  of  the  Pyrenees. 

Beyond  GranolMrs  the  railway  crosses  the  Congest,  the  wild  valley 
of  which  is  seen  to  the  right.  117  M.  Montmeld,  lying  between  two 
isolated  hills.  We  cross  the  Rieras  de  Pa/reto  and  de  MoUet.  To  the  right 
is  the  Costa  de  Mar;  to  the  left  are  the  Montanas  Matas  (1640  ft.) 
and  the  castle  of  La  Roca.  —  From  (19  M.)  MoUet  or  Sant  Vicens  de 


1 92    Route  t5.  ARENYS  DE  MAR.        From  Perpignan 

Mollet  a  branch-railway  runs  to  the  N.W.  to  (9  M.l  Caldas  dt  Mont- 
buy,  an  ancient  wateiing-place  with  hot  springs  (158®  Fahr.). 

The  line  now  again  skirts  the  Gongost,  crossing  its  affluents  the 
Biera  dt  Caldas,  the  RUra  8eca,  and  the  RipoUet  To  the  left  is 
the  church  of  Beixaeh.  —  123  M.  Moncada,  with  the  ruins  of  an 
ancient  castle.  The  Congest,  now  called  the  Beads^  forces  its  way 
ihrongh.  Monte\Tibiddbo  (p.  211).  The  railway  runs  parallel  with 
that  to  L^rida  (R.  17)»  between  the  Bes6s  on  the  right  and  the  Aee- 
quia  del  Conde  on  the  left.  —  125  M.  Santa  Coloma  de  Oramanet,  on 
the  other  side  of  the  river,  with  many  villas ;  125^/4  M.  San  AndrSt 
(Sant  Andreu)  de  Palomar^  a  manufacturing  suburb  of  Barcelona, 
with  12,700  inhab.;  1261/2  M.  Horta,  with  the  Laberinto  of  the 
Marques  de  Alfarras  and  the  CasadeFontaletj  the  residence  of  Arch- 
duke Charles  in  the  War  of  the  Spanish  Succession.  —  128  M.  Clot, 
with  its  large  industrial  establishments,  is  included  within  the  limits 
of  Barcelona.  The  train  runs  between  factories  and  country-houses, 
sweeps  round  the  park,  passes  the  bull-ring  (left),  and  draws  up  in 
the  Estacidn  de  Francia  at  (131  M.)  Barcelona  (p.  194). 


The  Coast  Railway  (^Linea  de  Matard  y  del  Litoral;  47  M., 
in  3-3 V4  hrs. ;  fares  8  p.  80,  6  p.  73,  4  p.  58  c),  which  diverges  from 
the  inland  line  at  Empalme  (p.  190),  is  generally  considered  the 
more  attractive  of  the  two,  though  it  misses  the  view  of  the  imposing 
Montseny  (p.  190).  It  sweeps  round  to  the  N.  of  the  Sierra  de  Ma- 
zanet  and  then  descends  along  the  left  bank  of  the  Tordera, 

93  M.  (from  Perpignan)  Tordera;  the  small  town,  which  has 
some  reputation  for  its  lace,  lies  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river.  The 
fertile  region  around  is  intersected  by  hedges  of  aloe.  —  961/2  M. 
Blanes,  IV4  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  the  town,  which  also  manufactures 
lace.  The  men,  as  in  most  of  these  coast-towns,  are  mostly  fisher* 
men,  sailors,  or  tillers  of  the  soil. 

The  railway  turns  to  the  S.W.  at  right  angles  and  twice  crosses 
the  Tordera,  which  is  often  very  turbulent.  99  M.  Malgrat.  To  the 
right  lies  the  village  of  Santa  Susana, 

The  line  now  traverses  the  sandy  coast.  102 VsM.  Pineda;  104  M. 
CaleUa,  a  flshing-town  with  3600  inhabitants.  Several  rocky  points 
are  penetrated  by  means  of  tunnels.  Above  the  first  of  these  is  the 
lighthouse  of  La  Torreta,  Farther  on  is  the  promontory  of  La  Cobra, 
The  construction  of  this  part  of  the  line  is  full  of  interest.  IO61/2M. 
San  Pol  de  Mar,  at  the  foot  of  the  headland  of  that  name.  The 
headlands  of  Ven  Batista  and  Cigala  are  passed  by  cuttings  and  tun- 
nels. —  Beyond  (109  M.)  Can^t  de  Mar,  a  lace-  making  town  with 
3000  inhab. ,  we  intersect  the  promontories  of  Las  Rosas  and  La  Serp. 

IIOV2M.  Arinysde  Haif  Fonda  del  Siglo),  a  town  of  4200  inhab., 
picturesquely  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Monte  Calvdrio,  On  the 
height  to  the  right  lies  Ar^nys  de  Munt,  to  which  'tartauas'  (p.  253) 
ascend.     The  town  possesses  a  nautical  school,  maintained  by  the 


to  Barcelona.  MATARO.  15,  Route,    193 

meichantfl  of  Barcelona.  —  Just  beyond  the  station  is  a  tunnel.  To 
tke  right  are  the  Banos  de  Tito.  The  railway  winds  through  the 
locks  on  the  seashore  and  crosses  the  CaldeUu,  On  the  right  rises 
the  Torre  de  los  Eneantadoe, 

II2V2  M.  Caldetas  (Caldaa  d'EstraehJ,  consisting  of  Caldetaa  de 
Mar  and  Caldetas  de  Dalt  (de  Arr&a),  or  lower  and  upper  Caldetas , 
and  possessing  some  warm  springs  (105"  Fahr.).  To  the  right  are  the 
CAstle  of  Rocdberti  and  a  number  of  country-houses.  Farther  on  are 
the  Tillages  of  San  Vicente  de  LUvaneras  and  San  Andrfs  de  LUvane" 
ras  and  the  tower  of  the  ruined  castle  of  Notr^  Arfan,  We  cross  the 
rtmbla  of  San  Simon  and  traverse  the  suburb  vfHabana. 

117  M.  Hatard  (Fonda  de  Montserrat;  Restaurant  de  Franef a) y 
an  important  seaport  and  industrial  town ,  with  17,100  inhab.,  is 
divided  into  an  upper  or  old  town  and  a  lower  or  modem  town. 
The  Parish  Church  contains  paintings  by  Viladomat  (p.  201)  and 
Montana. 

To  the  right,  as  we  oontinue  our  journey,  are  the  castle  of  Bo- 
riache  and  the  carbonated  chalybeate  spring  of  Argentona,  which  may 
be  reached  from  Mataro  (IV4  M*)  by  tartana.  Farther  on  are  Cabrera 
and  Cabrils,  known  for  their  roses  and  strawberries. 

I2OV2  M.  VUasary  consisting  of  Vilasar  de  Dalt  (or  de  Arrihd) 
and  Vilasar  de  Mar,  The  upper  town  still  possesses  a  few  medijBval 
watch-towers  (atalayas),  dating  from  a  time  when  this  whole  coast 
had  to  be  guarded  against  pirates.  —  Farther  on  is  the  castle  of 
Vilasar,  with  the  Torre  del  Homenaje.  ^  122  M.  Premid  de  Mar; 
then,  Premid  de  Dali^  almost  entirely  hidden  by  groves  of  oranges 
and  olives. 

124  M.  OcatUj  with  a  Romanesque  and  a  mediasval  tower,  is  a 
suburb  of  (124 1/2  M.)  Masnou,  which  lies  in  a  picturesque  amphi- 
theatre. Tartanas  run  hence  to  the  orange-growing  village  ofAleya, 
—  The  train  crosses  the  Aleya  and  the  Tava  and  threads  a  tunnel. 

127^2  M.  Mongol,  with  a  castle  famed  for  its  resistance  to  the 
French  in  1808.  A  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made  to  the  Car- 
thusian convent  of  Montalegre,  founded  by  Juan  de  Nea  in  the  be- 
ginning of  the  15th  cent,  and  destroyed  in  the  stormy  year  1835. 

1281/2  M.  Badalona,  the  Betulo  of  the  Romans  and  now  one  of 
the  outer  suburbs  of  Barcelona,  lies  in  the  midst  of  a  rich  plain  and 
contains  14,800  inhab.  and  several  large  factories.  —  Farther  on  we 
cross  the  Bes6s  (p.  192),  the  water  of  which  is  in  summer  sometimes 
entirely  absorbed  by  the  needs  of  Barcelona.  We  pass  many  other 
factories  and  the  suburb  of  (131 V2  M.)  Pud>lo  Nuevo,  which  contains 
the  E.  cemetery  (p.  210).  To  the  right  is  the  park,  to  the  left  are 
the  bull-ring  and  Barceloneta. 

134  M.  Barcelona,  see  p.  194. 


Basdekbb'8  Spain.  13 


194 


16.  Barcelona*  ^ 

Railway  Stations.  1.  Estacidn  de  Francia^  Paseo  dela  AduanaC 
9, 10 ;  reataurant),  near  the  harbour,  for  the  railways  to  Gerona,  Por 
and  Perpignan  (R.  15),  to  Martorell  (Reus  \  R.  19b),  to  San  Vicente  di 
ders,  Reus,  and  Saragossa  (R.  19),  via  San  Vicente  to  Roda  de  Ban 
Picamoixons  (L^rida^  p.  215),  and  to  Tarragona  (Tortosa,  Valencia ;  1 
also  for  the  express  to  Madrid  via  Villanueva  every  Taes.,  Thurs.,  an< 
evening,  returning  from  Madrid  on  Mon.,  Wed.,  and  Frid.  —  2.  E%  ^. 
del  Norte  (PI.  1,  8^  restaurant),  for  trains  to  Monistrol,  L^rida,  and  ' 
gossa  (R.  17).  —  3.  Ettacidn  de  Villanueva  (Pi.  E,  10),  a  suppleuK 
station  for  the  eoast-line  to  Reus.  —  4.  Estacidn  de  Sarrid  (PI.  G,  8 
local  trains  to  Sarrid.  —  The  trains  are  met  by  the  Hotel  Omnibiue, 
Omnibus  General  (comp.  p.  xvi^  fare  25  c,  each  article  of  luggage  25- 
and  Cab»  (p.  195).  —  Detpacho  Centrdl  (p.  xvl),  Rambla  del  Centre  (PI. 

Arrival  by  Sea.    The  steamers  anchor  to  buoys  or  land  on  the 
of  the  inner  port.  Rowing-boats  always  ply  to  meet  vessels  (50  c. 
article  of  luggage  25-50  c).     The  porter  (Fajin  or  Mozo  de  Cordel), 
carries  the  luggage  to  the  Aduana^  receives  y^-i  p.     Drive  thence 
hotel,  see  above. 

Hotels  (comp.   p.  xx  and  PI.  II,  p.  198).     *Gkand  Hotel  (foi 
Cuatt'o  Nadonet;  PI.  a,  F  9),  Rambla  del  Centro  35,  opposite  the 
Principal,   d^j.  with  wine  4,  D.  with  wine  5,   pens,   from  10  p. ; 
Hotel  Continental  (PI,  b;  G,  8),  Rambla  Canaletas  10,  at  the  coi 
the  Plaza  de  Cataluna,  with  a  large   cafe-restaurant,  d^j.   or  D.  5, 
from  10  p. ;   "^Gran  Hotel  de   Inolaterra  ,   corner  of  Paseo   de  ( 
and  Puerta  del  Angel  (PI.  G,  8)5   *Hot.  Falcon  t  Central  (PI.  ci  : 
Plaza  del   Teatro  5,    ddj.   or  D.   3,    pens.   10-12  p.^    *Hot.    de   Or 
(PL  d:  F,  9),  Rambla  del  Centro  20,   W.  side,  d^j.  3,  D.  4,  pens.  8 
omn.  iVs  P-  h  Hotel  Ahbos  Mcndos,  Ronda  San  Pedro.  —  Less  pr( 
ing:  Hot.  Peninsular  (PL  e ;  F,  9),  Calle  de  San  Pablo  34,  B.  1,  d^j.  2 
21/2,  pens.  5-6,  omn.  1  p.,  well  spoken  of  j  Fonda  de  EspaSTa  (PL  f ;  ' 
Calle  de  San  Pablo  9,  d^j.  2V2,  D.   2»/2,  pens.  6  p. ;  Hot.  Internacl 
(PL  g:  F,  9),  Llano   de  la  Boqueria  1,  corner  of  the  Rambla  del  Cq 
pens.  Op. ;  Fonda  del  Comercio,  Calle  Escudillers  15  (PL  G,  9),  pens.  5, 
Hotel  de  Cataluna,  Plaza  Real  (PL  F,  9),  pens,  from  5  p.  5    Fonda* 
Universo,  Plaza  de  Palacio  3  (PL  H,  9).  near  the  harbour,  pens,  fromf 
—   Casaa  de  Huespedes  (comp.  p.  xx).     Pedro  Mayoral^   Calle  Cold 
Cam  Americana,  Calle  San  Pablo  32^  Simoneili,  Plaza  del  Teatro  3  •,  Cata  l 
zini^  Paseo  Colon:   Mrs.  De  Bergue^   Rambla  Cataluna  123.  —  FurniL 
Rooms.    Maison  Meublie  de  Frangois^  Calle  de  los  Escudillers  5  (PL  09 
Maisom  Metibliet,  Rambla  del  Centro  37,   Calle  Conde   del  Asalto  20, 
Calle  Union  4  (English  spoken). 

Cafes  (comp.  p.  xxii),  generally  elegantly  fitted  up,  especially  tho8| 
the  Rambla  del  Centro  5  many  are  also  restaurants.  On  the  W.  sift 
the  Rambla,  named  from  B.  to  N. :  Americano^  Oriente  (see  above), 
(in  the  Teatro  del  Liceo)^  on  the  E.  side:  Cm^ral  (see  above),  Suito^  x 
(both  with  restaurant  and  a  second  entrance  in  the  Plaza  Real),  Mm 
Continental  (see  above).  Oafi  de  Francia  (see  below);  Ca/6  Espafhl^ 
Real,  with  a  large  billiard-room ;  Ca/4  de  la  Alhambra,  Paseo  de  Graclft 
Cafi  Colon^  Cafi  Novedades^  both  in  the  Paseo  de  Gracia,  with  large  bill! 
rooms.  —  In  summer  numerous  Horchaterias  (comp.  p.  xxii)  are  open.  ^ 

Restaurants  (comp.  p.  xxi).  At  most  of  the  above-named  caf^s  I 
hotels.  Also:  *Restavra7U  de  Franda^  Plaza  Real  12,  d^j.  from  4,  D.  fd 
5p. ;  Restaurant  de  Martin^  Rambla  del  Centro  5,  d^j.  or  D.  from  4p. ;  | 
tiaurant  Universal^  Rambla  Santa  Monica  2,  moderate.  *JRe»taurant  Miran 
on  the  Mon^uich,  with  fine  view.  In  summer  there  are  two 
restaurants  at  the  BdHoi  de  Mar  (p.  196). 


t  In  the  references  to  the  plans  of  the  city,  PL  I  indicates  the  la 
general  plan  opposite,  PL  II   that  of  the  inner  city.     References  wh<| 
neither  numeral  is  given  apply  to  both  plans. 


"^ 


:^!;^.. 


yi  t 


^^^^^^^pl 


\ 


utmi^^ty  xgoue 


1-2  pers. 

3-4  pers. 

1      p. 

ii/a  p. 

iv«» 

a    . 

2      « 

2V«  » 

3        n 

3V«  « 

2      „ 

3        n 

8      , 

37.  n 

8        n 

3Va  » 

6      „ 

6        n 

BARCELONA.  IS,  Route,    195 

Beer  Hmmi  (Cerweeria$).9M  with  Bavarian  beer.  JiaMoifrwW  Gam- 
brmu^  Rambla  Santa  Monica  39,  E.  side;  Lwn  d'Oro^  Plasa  del  Teatro  6; 
£«««i*Hhi,  Bambla  del  Centro,  W.  side;  C<^fi  Suite ^  see  p.  19A:  On/i- 
Rakntrant  ConUmmtaX^  see  p.  194;  Rutaurant  Peninnikur^  Plasa  de  CataluSa; 
Citfi  AUuimbraj  see  p.  194  v  Cerveeeria  Gambrintu^  Plaza  Gataluna. 

Oaba  iC0eh€»  de  Plata^  Carru^^et;  tariff  in 
each  vehicle). 

Cab  with  one  horse,  per  drive 

r,  n  «  1  at  night    . 

„  „        ,  per  hour      .... 

n  n  „  ,  at  night    . 

Cab  with  two  horses,  per  drive      .... 
n  n  „  ,  at  night 

,  „  ,  per  hour        .     .     . 

»  n  „  ,  at  night 

The  night-fares  are  due  in  winter  from  8  p.m.  in  7  a.m.,  in  sum- 
mer from  9  p.m.  to  6  a.m.  —  An  extra  fare  of  60  c.  is  charged  for  drives 
to  Railway  BtaHotu  and  SUamhcat  Quays.  Luggage  up  to  66  lbs.  is  reckoned 
as  1  pers. ;  the  driver  is  bound  to  carry  it  from  the  house  to  the  cab  or 
vice  versa.  In  driving  by  time  (por  hora)  the  first  hour  is  paid  for  in 
full,  each  hour  additional  is  charged  as  half-an-hour.  —  For  drives  outside 
the  town  the  tariff  per  hour  is  usually  paid,  but  the  consent  of  the  driver 
must  be  previously  obtained.  —  In  the  case  of  complaini)  the  coachman 
is  bound  to  drive  his  passenger  to  the  AlealcKa  without  charge. 

Tramwaya  (Tranviat):  comp.  the  Plan  and  p.  201;  fare  10  c,  on  Sun. 
and  holidays  16  c.  The  main  lines  cross  the  city  from  the  harbour  to 
Oraeia  and  ran  round  the  old  town  ( Tramrta  dt  Ciramvalacidn) ;  others 
run  to  Barceloneta  and  other  suburbs.  EUetrie  Line$  are  now  being  laid 
through  the  principal  streets  and  to  the  suburbs.  —  Steam  Tbamwat  from 
the  Plasa  de  Catalana  to  San  Gervatio,  Badalona,  Glot,  Scuis,  and  Sarrid. 

Harbour  Steamers  (  Vapores  Omntinu)  ply  everv  10  min.  from  the  £m- 
barcadero  de  la  Paz  (PI.  F,  10)  to  Barceloneta  Cp.  210;  fare  10  c,  there  and 
back  15  e.). 

Bteamers  (eomp.  p.  xvii)  ply  from  Barcelona  to  Gette,  Marseilles. 
Genoa,  Valencia,  Mahon,  Palma,  Malaga,  Liverpool,  Glasgow,  London, 
Egypt,  Manila,  Cuba,  Central  and  Southern  America,  etc.  Almost  all  the 
otfiees  (DemcKhoi)  are  in  the  Paseo  de  Colon  and  Paseo  de  Isabel  Segnnda 
fPl.  G,  9, 10)  and  the  Plasa  de  Palacio  (PI.  H.  9, 10). 

The  Poat  Office  {Correo,  PI.  F  8;  comp.  p.  xviii),  in  the  Plasa  del  Buen- 
suceso,  is  open  for  ^noste  restante*  business  8-11  and  3-6,  for  delivery  of 
registered  letters  9-1,  ror  the  despatch  of  registereii  letters  to  foreign  countries 
10.90-2.30  and  6-9,  for  money-order  business  10-12  and  3-6.  —  Telegraph 
Offtee  (TeligrafM)  ^  Bonda  de  la  Universidad  19  (PI.  E,  7)  and  Plaza  del 
Teatro.  —  Telephone  Offlee  (Telifonot)^  C  ille  de  Zurbano  4,  near  the  Plaza 
Real  (PI.  F,  9). 

Thoatrea  (comp.  p.  zxvi*  performances  usually  from  mid-Sept,  to  the 
end  of  Mav).  •Gran  Teatro  del  Liceo  (PI.  F,  9),  Bambla  del  Centro,  built 
in  1847,  with  room  for  3600 persons.  Italian  operas;  prices  as  in  the  Teatro 
Real  of  Madrid  (p.  67).  —  Teatro  Principal  (PI.  F,  9),  Plaza  del  Teatro ; 
2600  seats.  Dramas,  comedies,  and  ballets ;  performances  by  Italian  com- 
panies in  spring.  —  Teatro  del  Circo  Barcelonit^  Galle  de  Montserrat;  Teairo 
lAHco  (PI.  I;  G,  6),  Galle  de  Mallorca;  Teatro  de  CataluHa,  Bambla  de  Cata- 
luna;  T.  de  Novedadu  (PI.  G,  7),  Galle  Caspe  (Circus  in  summer):  T.  Tivoli 
(PI.  G,  7),  Galle  Caspe,  a  summer-theatre.  —  Theatrea  of  yariettea  (Cafie 
Camtantee):  Eden  Concert^  Galle  Gonde  del  Asalto  12;  Alcdzar  EspaMol,  Galle 
de  la  Union  7;    Palais  des  Flew*,  Galle  de  los  Escudillers  6. 

Boll  Bins  {Pkua  de  Torot;  PI.  H  10;  comp.  p.  xxvi),  in  Barceloneta, 
built  in  1834  and  renewed  in  1887,  with  14,500  places.  The  'corridas'  do 
not  rank  very  high ;  the  Catalan  lacks  the  ^embestida'  of  the  Spaniard. 

OycUsff  Sink  irOddromo;  PI.  I,  £  3),  built  in  1893,  Galle  de  Molodell, 
in  the  subnrb  of  Gervasio,  not  far  from  the  Bonanova  station  (p.  211). 

13* 


i96  Route  16.  BARCELONA.  Festivals. 

Basque  Ball  Games  {Juego»  de  Filota;  comp.  p.  xxix)  in  the  Fronidn 
Barcelona  (PI.  I;  I,  7),  Calle  de  la  Diputacidn,  built  in  1893  (30C0 seats), 
and  in  the  Fronton  Condal  in  Gracia,  a  large  covered  building  lighted  by 
electricity,  where  games  go  on  also  at  night. 

Shops  (comp.  p.  xxiii).  The  best  are  in  the  Calle  de  Fernando  Septimo 
and  the  PI  za  Real.  Among  the  chief  local  manufactures  may  be  mentioned 
the  beautiful  point  lace  (pwUas^  encajei)  and  blond  lace  (blondat^  encajtz 
de  teda).  The  cloth  made  in  the  factories  of  Sabadell  is  also  fine  —  The 
swords,  knives,  and  inlaid  work  of  Toledo  (p.  147)  are  sold  by  Vives,  Calle 
de  Fernando  Septimo  2^.  —  Tasteful  objects  in  gold  and  silver,  such  as 
the  arrctcadcu  or  Catalonian  earrings,  in  the  Calle  de  la  Platerfa.  —  Pre- 
served meat^,  confectionery,  and  liqueurs  kept  by  Parent  Hermanoi^  Bambla 
del  Centro  36,  and  Foituny  Hermanos,  Calle  Hospital. 

Booksellers.  Libreria  Francesa,  Enrique  Lopez ^  A.  Verdagwr,  Kambla 
del  Centro,  Nos.  8,  20,  and  6;  Libreria  Nacional  y  Extrcmjera  (Schulze), 
Calle  Conde  de  Asalto  16  (al^o  p)  otoi^raphs  and  music;  information  will> 
ingly  given  to  strangers).  —  Photogbaphs:  Luran,  Calle  Fernando  33. 

Cigars,  see  p.  xxiii.  Genuine  ^Tabagos  Ha.tanos'*  may  be  obtained  at 
Rambla  del  Centro  b2. 

Banks.  Cridit  Lponnait^  Bambla  del  Centro  28;  Banco  de  E^cMa^ 
BAmbla  de  Santa  M6nica  27;  Vidal  Quadras  JBermano*^  Porticos  de  Vidal2. 

—  Honey  Changfrs  {Cambit'os  de  Moneda;  comp.  p.  xiij:  Cridit  LyonnaU. 
see  above;  several  others  in  the  Bambla  del  Centro. 

Baths  (Btfioi):  Pasaje  de  la  Paz  3,  Bambla  de  Estudios  9,  Calle  del 
Teatro  9-  In  summer  warm  and  cold  sea-water  b  iths  (60  c,  bathing  dress 
26  c.)  may  be  had  at  the  LaSioe  de  Mar^  Barceloneta.  Swimmers  will  find 
it  preferable  to  take  a  boat  and  row  to  the  outer  harbour. 

Physicians.  Dr,  B.  Robert^  Calle  Cortes  24S ;  Dr.  Rodr.  Mendez^  Paseo 
de  Gracia  90;  Dr.  Bonet^  Paseo  de  Gracia  21;  Dr.  Cardenal,  Pasaje  Mer- 
cader  13;  Dr.  Franc.  PaeartlL  Dormitorio  de  San  Francisco  25.  Homeo- 
pathic: Dr  Joii  Civil,  Calle  Santa  Ana  24.  —  Dentists.  Dr.  Montgomery, 
Dr.  Willianu,  both  Bambla  Cataluna;  Dr.  Gabedo,  Pla/a  Beal;  Dvfreme, 
Bambla  de  Canaletas  4. 

Apothecaries.  Farmdcia  del  Gldbo  (Dr.  Jimeno),  Plaza  Beal;  Farmdda 
del  Dr.  Bormiytiera.  Calle  de  Fernando  Septimo;  Farmdcia  de  Colon  de 
Tomas  Sanchie,  Kambla  del  Centro  31. 

Consulates.  British  Consul,  J.  F.  Roberts,  Calle  de  la  Plata  7;  Vice-Con- 
sul,  F.  Witty;  Pro-Consul,  John  W.  Witty.  —  U.S.  Consul  General,  Herbert 
W.  Bowen^  Bambla  de  Santa  Monica  2;  Vice-Consul,  H.  H.  Rider. 

Lloyd's  Agents.    MacAndrews  &  Co..,  13  Porticos  de  Xifre. 

English  Cuurcb,  Calle  de  las  Cortes  346;  chaplain.  Rev.  G.  F.  Jackson, 
Calle  de  Bruch  129.  —  Seamen's  Institute,  Calle  Cristina  8. 

Exhibition  of  Art  in  tbe  Salon  Paris,  Calle  de  Petritxol  3  (E.  side  of 
the  Bamt'la  San  Jos^),  open  throughout  the  year.  —  Industrial  or  Inter- 
national Exhibition  in  spring. 

Popular  Festivals.  Jan.  1st.  New  Tear's  Day.  —  Jan.  8th.  Concepeion  de 
la  Immamlada.  —  Jan.  17th.  Fete  of  St.  Antony,  with  blessing  of  domestic 
animals  Cc.  ballerias').  —  Feb.  12th.  FeU  of  St.  Eula'ia,  at  Sarria  (p.  211). 

—  From  Jan.  till  the  end  of  tbe  Carnival  Masked  Balls  (Bailes  de  Mascaras) 
are  held  at  the  di£ferent  theatres.  The  last  day  of  the  Carnival  is  celebrated 
with  great  exuber  nee,  before  its  'buriiir  on  the  first  day  of  Lent  (Miircole* 
de  Ceniza).  Probably  more  than  half  the  population  of  Barcelona  passes 
the  day  outside  the  gates.  —  On  March  3rd  takes  place  a  great  Bomeria 
to  Rita  de  Monte,  above  Gracia  (p.  211).  —  St.  Joseph's  Day  (Mar.  19th)  is 
kept  by  a  round  of  eating  und  drinking  in  the  confectioners''  shops,  dairies, 
and  taverns.  —  The  Lamb  lair  takes  place  in  Gracia  and  the  Pas^o  de 
Gracia  at  Easter  and  Whitsuntide.  —  April  23rd.  Fete  of  St.  George  in  his 
chapel  (p.  207),  with  a  fair  for  flowers  and  toys  in  the  Audiencia.  —  On 
the  first  Sun.  in  May,  in  the  Sala  de  Contrata clones  of  the  Lonja  (p.  208), 
"Te  held  the  BO-caW^^  J ochs  Floral,  ov  Floral  Games,  a  series  of  poetic  con- 

for  which  the  prize,  after  the  Provengal  fashion,  is  an  artificial  flower 
«}  title  *Mestre   en  Gay  Saber'  (Master  of  the  Gay   Science).     These 


SUuatian.  BARCELONA.  16.  Route.    197 

contefts  were  founded  by  John  I.  of  Aragon  in  1393  for  the  encouragement 
of  Catalan  poetry,  and  were  reeusritated  in  1849.  —  On  Corptu  ChrisH  Day 
the  yoang  people  distribute  flowere  and  sweetmeats  among  the  ladies,  and 
there  ia  a  great  proce^aion  from  the  Cathedral  all  round  the  old  city.  —  The 
fitee  of  Si.  John  and  St.  Ptltr  are  ct>Kbri  ted  by  bull-fl^hta  and  by  music 
and  dancing  in  the  Rambla  and  the  Paseo  de  Oracii  (p.  '4:02).  —  Sept.  24th. 
Fittta  Ma^cr  d$  Barcelona^  a  great  hnlidav  with  bull-fghts.  —  On  the  Day  0/ 
JU  iSatiKa  and  the  Day  cf  All  Srml*  (Kov.  l.«t  and  2nd)  the  cemeteries  1  re  vi- 
sited and  the  graves  decked  with  flowers.  —  On  St.  Thomai»  Day  (Dec.  21  st) 
is  held  the  annual  Fa<r  of  Barcelona,  irequented  by  (icturesque  peasants. 
Gliief  Attractiena  (lVr2  days).  Ist  Day.  Walk  from  the  Colunibut 
Monummi  (p.  199)  up  the  Rambta  (p.  20 >)^  Fkua  Real  (p.  200);  through 
the  Calle  de  Fernando  Septlmo  to  the  Pkua  de  la  Comtilve  dn^  wi'h  the 
mpniaeidn  (p.  2i6);  Cathedral  (p.  20)).  Af'emoon:  Through  the  Calle  de 
la  Prince-a  to  the  Park  (p.  209);  Pima  de  Palacio  (p.  208);  Harbour  (p.  199); 
Santa  Maria  dd  Mar  fp.  206).  —  2nd  Day.  Along  tite  Rambla  to  the  Flaxa 
de  CatahMa  (p.  201);  Paeeo  de  Gracia  (p.  202).    Exturfion  to  Sarrid  (p.  211). 

Barcelona,  the  capital  of  the  old  Principado  de  CataluTia^  and 
now  seat  of  the  Captain-General  of  Catalonia,  of  a  bishop,  and  of  a 
university,  lies  in  the  same  latitude  as  Rome,  in  an  undulating  plain, 
which  slopes  gradually  up  to  the  hills  on  the  N.W.  (highest  point 
TibiddbOj  1745  ft.)  and  is  bounded  on  the  N.E.  by  the  Montanae 
Malas  and  on  the  S.W.  by  the  Montjuick  (p.  210).  The  natural 
outlets  of  this  pleasant  basin  (6  M.  long  and  2'/2~^  M.  wide)  are  the 
valley  of  the  Besds  on  the  N.  and  a  gap  on  the  S.W.  leading  to  the 
spacious  valley  of  the  Llohregat,  The  whole  of  the  undulating  plain 
is  covered  witii  the  so-called  Exiramuroa,  consisting  of  innumerable 
villages  (pu^dosjj  palaces,  manufactories,  farms,  rural  churches 
(ermitcu),  and  country-houses  (torres).  These  now  crowd  so  closely 
upon  one  another  that  the  new  Barcelona  may  be  expected  in  a  few 
more  years  to  be  ten  times  as  large  as  the  old  city.  The  chief  point 
of  interest  for  the  stranger  is  Old  Barcelona^  lying  at  the  S.  end  of 
the  basin,  near  the  base  of  the  Montjuich.  The  so-called  Ensanche 
(extensions)  or  new  quarters  contain  a  great  number  of  tasteful  and 
even  magnificent  modem  buildings. 

Old  Barcelona  forms  a  kind  of  irregular  hexagon,  the  S.E.  side 
of  which  is  bounded  by  the  harbour.  From  about  the  middle  of  this, 
towards  the  N. ,  runs  a  wide  street  named  the  Rambla  (p.  200),  which 
intersects  the  whole  of  the  old  city,  dividing  it  into  the  Ribera  on 
the  £.  and  the  ArrabAl  on  the  W.  About  halfway  up  the  Rambla, 
to  the  right,  diverges  the  Calle  de  Fernando  Septimo,  leading,  with 
its  prolongations  the  Calle  de  Jaime  Primero  and  the  Calle  de  la 
Princesa,  to  the  Park  (p.  209).  This  line  of  streets  traverses  the 
so-called  Monte  TAhety  a  low  hill  which  formed  the  original  Komano- 
Carthaginian  kernel  of  the  town.  Its  highest  point  is  now  occupied  by 
the  cathedral.  The  place  of  the  old  city-walls  is  now  taken  by  wide 
boulevards.  To  the  W.  and  N.  these  are  known  as  *rondas* ;  to  the 
N.E.  they  combine,  under  the  name  of  the  Sal6n  de  San  Juan  and 
the  Pasi^o  de  la  Industria,  with  the  park.  With  the  exception  of  the 
Rambla,  the  streets  of  the  old  town  are  dark  and  narrow ;  they  are, 
however,  the  scene  of  a  perpetual  activity  and  their  balconied  houses 


^QB   BouU  16.  BARCELONA.  History. 

are  handsome  and  picturesque.  S.quares  and  open  spaces  are  con- 
spicuously absent,  and  there  is  no  free  Tiew  of  the  sea,  which  is 
almost  entirely  concealed  hy  the  lofty  moles,  the  shipping  at  the 
■wharves,  and  the  suhurh  of  Barceloneta.  The  city  is  seen  at  its  best 
in  an  afternoon  stroll  under  the  shady  plane-trees  of  the  Rambla, 
or  after  dark,  when  the  shops  in  the  Calle  de  Fernando  Septimo  and 
the  caf^s  in  the  Rambla  are  brilliantly  illuminated  and  thousands  of 
promenaders  are  enjoying  the  cool  evening-breeze  from  the  hills. 
Under  such  conditions  as  these  the  modem  traveller  may  almost  be 
tempted  to  agree  with  Don  Quixote  (II.  72)  when  he  calls  Barcelona 
Hhe  seat  of  courtesy,  the  haven  of  strangers,  the  refuge  of  the  dis- 
tressed, the  mother  of  the  valiant,  the  champion  of  the  wronged,  the 
abode  of  true  friendship,  and  unique  both  in  beauty  and  situation.' 

The Olimats  of  Barcelona  (comp.  p.  xxxi)is  singularly  pleasant; 
the  summer  is  not  too  warm,  while  in  winter  it  almost  never  freezes 
and  snow  is  a  great  rarity.  The  prevailing  winds  are  the  LlevarUy  or 
rain-bringing  E.*  wind;  the  Oargalj  or  N.E.  wind,  which  blows 
mainly  in  spring  and  is  also  moist;  the  S.W.  LUveig  or  Qarbf,  which 
betokens  clear  weather;  and  the  dry  Af«iraZ,  or  N.W.  wind,  the 
harbinger  of  winter.  Its  sheltered  situation  adapts  Barcelona  for  a 
winter-residence  for  invalids,  but  they  should  seek  a  dwelling  to  the 
E.  of  the  Rambla,  or  near  the  Paseo  de  Gracia  (p.  202)  or  some 
similar  point  in  the  sunny  Ensanche. 

The  Hiatory  of  Barcelona  coincides  with  that  of  Catalonia  (p.  186)- 
The  old  name  of  the  city  (Barcino)  is  generally,  but  erroneously,  connected 
with  Hamilcar  Barca,  the  Carthaginian.  By  Augustus  it  was  raised,  under 
the  name  of  Jtilia  Augusta  Pia  FavetUia^  to  the  rank  of  a  Roman  colony: 
and  soon  attained  a  considerable  importance,  rivalling  Tarraco  andEmporiee. 
Barcinona  grew  and  flourished  under  the  Visigoths,  who  twice  (415  and  531) 
made  it  their  temporary  capital  (comp.  p.  129).  Church-councils  were  held 
here  in  540  and  599.  The  Moors  captured  Bardjaluna  in  713,  Saint  Louis  in 
801.  From  874  onwards  it  was  the  seat  of  the  Counts  of  Barcelona  (p.  185). 
During  this  period  and  afterwards,  when  Catalonia  was  united  with 
Aragon,  Barcelona  rivalled  Genoa  and  Venice  as  one  of  the  three  great 
trading  cities  of  the  Mediterranean.  *She  divided  with  them  the  lucrative 
commerce  with  Alexandria*,  and  her  port,  thronged  with  foreigners  from 
every  nation,  became  a  principal  emporium  in  the  Mediterranean  for  the 
spices,  drugs,  perfumes,  and  other  rich  commodities  of  the  East,  whence 
they  were  diffused  over  the  interior  of  Spain  and  the  European  Continent' 
(Pracott).  Its  Contukxdo  del  Mar^  or  code  of  maritime  law,  with  which 
it  was  invested  in  1258  by  James  I.  of  Aragon,  became,  under  the  name 
of  *C6digo  de  las  Costumbres  Maritimas  de  Barcelona**,  as  authoritative  in 
mediaeval  Europe  as  the  Bhodian  laws  were  in  antiquity.  The  union 
with  Castile,  and  still  more  the  great  discoveries  of  the  15th  cent.,  were 
serious  blows  to  its  commercial  supremacy.  Barcelona  naturally  laid  the 
blame  for  its  decline  on  the  policy  of  the  ''Spanish'  government,  and  hence 
its  sympathies  long  oscillated  between  France  and  Spain.  Unsuccessful 
attempts  at  revolt,  especially  that  in  the  Spanish  War  of  Succession,  led  to 
the  abolition  of  its  fudros  (p.  185).  The  Bourbon  dynasty  built  the  citadel 
and  the  hated  walls,  which  were  all  the  more  intolerable  because  the  city 
was  rapidly  growing  in  industrial  importance.  The  whole  history  of 
Barcelona  since  then  resolves  itself  into  a  series  of  revolts ,  street-fights, 
and  bombardments,  the  main  object  of  which  was  the  destruction  of  the 
hampering  fortifications.  The  desired  liberty,  however,  was  not  attained 
till  i860. 


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Harbouf.  BARCELONA.  le.Itoute.    199 

^The  architeetural  history  of  Barcelona  is  mucli  more  complete,  whilst 
its  bttUdinga  are  more  numerous,  than  those  of  any  of  our  own  old  cities, 
of  which  it  is  in  some  sort  the  rival . . .  The  architecture  of  Gataluna 
bod  many  peculiarities,  and  in  the  fourteenth  and  fifteenth  centuries, 
when  most  of  the  great  buildings  of  Barcelona  were  being  erected,  they 
were  so  marked  as  to  justify  me,  I  think,  in  calling  the  style  as  completely 
and  exclusively  national  or  provincinl,  as,  to  take  a  contemporary  English 
example,  was  our  own  Norfolk  middle-pointed.  The  examination  of  them 
will,  therefore,  have  mneh  more  value  and  interest  than  that  of  even 
grander  buildings  erected  in  a  style  transplanted  from  another  country, 
such  as  we  see  at  Burgos  and  Toledo  \  and  beside  this,  there  was  one 
Kreat  problem  whieh  I  may  venture  to  say  that  the  Catalan  architects  satis- 
factorily solved  —  the  erection  of  churches  of  enormous  and  almost  un- 
equalled internal  width'  (Street). 

Barcelona  itself  contains  about  270,000  inhab.,  but  this  figure 
is  increased  to  500,000  if  we  include  the  following  suburbs,  which 
are  now  part  of  the  city:  Sa-M,  Las  Corts,  San  Oervcuio  de  CaS' 
soUUy  Or^eiciy  Horta,  San  Andrit  de  Palomar^  and  San  Martin  de 
ProvenaaU,  It  is  well  entitled  by  the  volume  of  its  industry  to  the 
title  of  the  'Manchester  of  Spain'.  As  is  largely  the  case  at  Man- 
chester, the  great  factories,  however,  are  all  outside  the  city.  The 
Harcelonians  combine  the  vivacity  of  the  Gaul  with  the  dignity  of 
the  Castilian,  while  their  appreciation  of  music  recalls  the  Teuton. 
In  no  town  in  the  Iberian  peninsula  flows  a  more  vigorous  and  cheer- 
ful  tide  of  life ;  and  none  makes  so  cosmopolitan  an  impression. 

a.  The  Harbour.  The  Bambla  and  its  Bide  Streets. 
The  Paerto  or  Harbour  (PL  I;  F,  G,  10,  11)  has  an  area  of 
290  acres,  including  the  Ante-Puerto;  it  is  thus  larger  than  the  three 
harbours  of  Marseilles  all  put  together,  but  considerably  smaller  than 
that  of  Genoa.  Its  main  aiis  is  fully  1  M.  in  length ;  the  width  of 
the  entrance  (to  the  S.)  is  310  yds.;  the  depth  is  26-50  ft.  It  is 
sheltered  from  the  sea  by  two  long  MueUes,  or  moles  (1400  yds.  and 
700  yds.  in  length),  which  afford  an  admirable  promenade.  Smaller 
moles  divide  the  harbour  into  two  basins,  always  full  of  shipping. 

Along  the  N.W.  side  of  the  harbour  stretches  the  •Pasko  db 
CoLOK  (PL  F,  G,  10),  a  new  quay,  140  ft.  wide  and  planted  with 
palms.  At  its  N.  end,  in  the  small  Plaza  de  Antonio  Lopez  (PI.  II ; 
G,  9),  near  the  Pas^o  Isabel  Segunda  and  the  Plaza  de  Palac-.io 
f  p.  208),  stands  a  monument,  by  Mestres  and  Vallmitjana  (1883), 
to  Antonio  Lopet^  Marquis  de  ComiUas,  a  noted  ship-owner  and 
eiicourager  of  navigation.  —  No.  23  in  the  Pas^o  de  Col6n  is  marked 
by  a  bust  as  the  residence  of  Cervantes  (?).  Farther  to  the  S.W.  is 
the  small  Plaza  del  Duque  Medinaceli  (PI.  II ;  G,  10),  with  a  statue 
of  Qalceran  Marquet^  a  Catalan  admiral,  erected  in  1851. 

Towards  the  S.W.  the  Columbus  Promenade  ends  fittingly  in 
the  Plaza  db  la  Paz,  at  the  Koniimeiito  k  Col6n  (PI.  F,  10), 
which  is  200  ft.  high  and  was  erected  in  1882-90  from  a  design  by 
the  architect  Cayetano  Buhigas.  The  lower  part  of  it  consists  of  a 
stone  platform,  surrounded  by  eight  bronze  lions  and  adorned  with 


200   BouU  16.  BARCELONA.  Bambla. 

bronze  reliefs  of  scenes  from  the  life  of  Golumbas,  by  JobS  Llimona 
and  Ant.  Vilanova,  medallions  of  his  patrons,  and  allegorical  figures 
of  Catalonia,  Aragon,  Leon,  and  Castile,  by  Carhanell,  Carcaasd,  Qa- 
motj  and  Raf,  Atch6.  On  this  base  rises  a  lofty  iron  column,  support- 
ing a  large  gilded  ball  on  which  stands  a  colossal  statue  of  Columbus 
(23  ft.  high),  by  Baf.  AiehS.  Two  flights  of  stairs  and  a  lift  (1  p.) 
ascend  to  the  ball,  which  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  harbour,  the 
city,  the  crescent  of  mountains  round  Barcelona,  and  the  town-be- 
sprinkled coast  to  the  N.£. 

The  Columbus  Monument  stands  opposite  the  S.  end  of  the 
*Bambla  (PI.  F,  G,  10-8) ,  the  imposing  main  street  of  the  old 
town,  which  is  shaded  by  a  double  row  of  plane-trees  and  extends 
from  the  harbour  to  the  Plaza de  Catalufia,  a  distance  of  S/4  M.  Under- 
neath it  flows  the  Riera  de  Malla,  which  is  now  Taulted  over.  The 
name  Rambla,  which  is  used  throughout  Spain  for  a  dry  river  bed, 
comes  from  the  Arabic  (p.  xxxviii).  The  street  resembles  the  Paris 
boulevards,  and  like  them  its  different  sections  bear  different  names. 

The  Rambla  Santa  Monica  (PI.  F,  10,  9),  as  the  first  part  of 
the  street  is  named,  contains  (to  the  left)  the  arsenal  and  fort  of 
Aiarazanas,  which  was  originally  built  by  Jaime  el  Conquistador 
(1243)  and  is  now  a  barrack  for  7000  men.  The  Sala  de  las  Armas 
is  interesting.    The  whole  building  is,  however,  to  be  torn  down. 

The  most  animated  part  of  the  street  is  the  Rambla  del  Csntro 
(PL  F,  9),  in  which  lie  the  largest  hotels  and  the  most  frequented 
caf^s.  This  is  the  favourite  promenade  of  the  Barcelonians,  both  in 
winter  (12r-l)  and  summer  (in  the  evening).  To  the  left  stands  the 
Teatro  Principal  (PI.  F,  9 ;  p.  195). 

Opposite  the  Teatro  Principal  begins  the  CaUe  de  lot  Escudillers 
(PI.  F,  G,  9),  one  of  the  liveliest  business-streets  of  the  city.  A  little 
higher  up,  on  the  same  side,  are  the  Pasaje  Bercaldl  and  the  short 
Calle  de  Colon,  leading  to  the  •Plaza  Real  (PI.  II ;  F,  9),  a  square, 
planted  with  palms  and  surrounded  with  arcadee,  caf^s,  and  shops, 
recalling  the  Palais  Royal  at  Paris.  In  the  middle  is  a  handsome 
fountain,  with  figures  of  the  Graces.  —  Two  passages  lead  to  the 
N.W.  from  the  Plaza  Real  to  the  narrow  CeUle  de  Fernando  Septimo 
(PL  F,  G,  9),  which  ascends  gently  from  the  Rambla  del  Centro  to 
the  Plaza  de  la  Constituci6n  (p.  206).  It  contains  some  of  the  most 
elegant  shops  in  the  city  and  is  a  favourite  promenade  on  winter 
evenings.  A  little  to  the  N.W.  is  the  Plaza  de  Beato  Oriol  (p.  201). 

Farther  to  the  N.  in  the  Rambla  del  Centro,  at  the  corner  of  the 
CaUe  de  San  Pablo ,  stands  the  Teatro  del  Liceo  (PL  F,  9).  In  the 
first  side-street  of  the  Calle  de  San  Pablo  is  the  church  of  San  Aguatin 
(PL  F,  9),  a  baroque  building  with  a  fine  apse,  erected  by  Pedro 
Bertran  in  1728-50  and  injured  by  fire  in  1835.  In  one  of  the  side 
chapels,  on  a  smaU  elevation  (as  in  other  churches  of  the  city),  is  a 
highly  revered  and  extraordinarily  ugly  image  of  the  Saviour.  —  To 
e  left,  at  the  W.  end  of  the  Calle  de  San  Pablo,  is  the  Romanesque 


Ramhla.  BARCELONA.  16,  Routt,   201 

ehurcb  of  San  Pablo  del  Caanpo  (PI.  £,  9),  one  of  the  oldest  parish 
churches  in  Barcelona,  erected  in  914  by  Count  Wilfrid  II.  outside 
the  town  (hence  ^del  campo')  for  a  Benedictine  convent.  It  was 
restored  by  OuSferto  Cfuitardo  in  1117,  and  is  an  excellent  specimen 
of  early  Catalan  architecture.  The  round  window  in  the  facade  is  a 
later  interpolation.  On  the  portal  are  the  symbols  of  SS.  John  and 
Matthew ;  above  is  a  hand  in  the  attitude  of  benediction.  The  nave 
and  transept  are  covered  with  barrel-vaulting.  Above  the  crossing 
rises  an  octagonal  cupola.  The  £.  end  has  three  parallel  apses.  The 
capitals  of  the  columns  are  interesting.  To  the  S.E.  of  the  church 
are  the  Cloiatera,  with  cusped  arches  in  the  Saracenic  style,  rich 
capitals,  and  coupled  shafts.  —  We  now  return  to  the  Rambla. 

On  the  £.  side  of  the  Bambla,  opposite  the  CaUe  de  San  Pablo, 
diverge  the  Riera  de  Pino  and  the  Calle  de  Boqueria,  with  its  curious 
shops,  both  leading  to  the  Plaza  de  Beato  Oriol  (PI.  II ;  G,  9).  Here 
stands  the  Gothic  church  of  Banta  Karia  del  Pino  or  Nuestra  Senora 
de  lo8  Reya,  erected  In  the  15th  cent,  on  the  site  of  an  earlier  struc- 
ture and  consecrated  in  1453.  It  is  a  characteristic  Catalonian  church 
with  a  huge  nave  and  no  aisles  (comp.  p.  xliii).  It  is  flanked  on  both 
sides  by  a  series  of  chapels  and  ends  in  a  beautiful  heptagon al  apse. 
In  the  W.  facade  is  a  large  rose-window  filled  with  line  tra'^ery.  The 
stained-glass  windows  are  handsome.  In  the  3rd  side-chapel  to  the 
rigbt  is  the  tomb  of  Ant.  Viladomat  (1678-17651,  the  Catalonian 
painter.  To  the  N.E.  is  a  lofty  detarhed  octagonal  Tower,  command- 
ing a  fine  view.  On  Palm  Sunday  a  consecrated  pine-branch  is  hung 
up  here,  in  memory  of  the  tradition  that  the  church's  image  of  the 
Virgin  was  found  In  the  trunk  of  a  pine-tree. 

The  N.  prolongation  of  the  BambIa  del  Centre  is  named  Uambla 
San  Jos£  (PL  F,  9,  8)  or  db  las  Flores.  In  it  is  the  Mercado  de 
SanJosS,  where  the  flower  market  is  held  daily  from  early  morning 
to  2  p.m.  all  the  year  round.  The  display  of  flowers  is  magnificent 
and  well  worth  seeing.  —  Farther  on  is  the  Rambla  db  Estudios 
(PL  II;  G,  8),  in  which,  to  the  left,  at  the  corner  of  the  Calle  del 
Carmen,  is  the  former  Jesuit  church  of  Nuestra  Senora  de  Belen 
(PL  F,  G,  8),  buQt  in  the  baroque  style  in  1681-1729.  Here  is  now 
preserved  the  sword  which  Ignatius  Loyola  laid  on  the  altar  of  the 
Madonna  of  Montserrat  (p.  224). 

The  Bambla  ends  at  the  Plaza  de  Cataluiia  (PL  G,7,8),  a  spacious 
square,  often  occupied  by  shows,  panoramas,  and  the  like.  To  the  W. 
lies  the  small  Sarrid  Station  (pp.  194,  211).  The  plaza  is  the  focus  of 
the  tramway-system  (p.  195),  and  cars  run  hence  to  the  N.  to  Gracia 
and  San  Gervasio ;  to  the  E.  vi^  the  Bondas  to  San  Andres  de  Palomar 
and  the  park ;  to  the  W.  to  Sarria  and  the  Montjuich;  and  to  the  S. 
along  the  Bambla  to  the  barbour,  Barceloneta,  and  the  £.  Cemetery. 
It  is  also  the  starting-point  of  the  steam-tramway  to  San  Gervasio. 

From  the  Plaza  de  Catalufia  the  Calle  de  Belay o  and  the  Bonda 
de  la  Universidad  lead  to  the  W.  to  the  large  Plaza  de  la  Universidad, 


^02   Bouteie.  BARCELONA.  Bamhla, 

on  the  N.W.  side  of  which  stands  the  TJniverBity  (PI.  I;  F,  7),  built 
by  Elias  Bogent  in  1863-73.  It  possesses  scientific  collections,  a 
large  library  (150,000  vols.),  a  school  for  architects,  engineers,  and 
designers,  and  an  inconsiderable  botanic  garden.  The  University  of 
Barcelona  was  founded  by  Alfonso  V.  in  1450,  but  it  was  trans- 
ferred by  Philip  V.  to  Cervera  (p.  214)  in  1717,  and  not  re-opened 
here  till  1842.  Between  that  date  and  1873  it  was  housed  in  the 
Convento  del  Carmen.   It  is  attended  by  about  2500  students. 

In  the  broad  Rambla  db  Cataluna,  which  runs  to  the  N.W. 
from  the  plaza  of  that  name,  stands,  to  the  right  (No.  24),  the 
*MnBeo  EBtmch  (PL  II ;  G,  7) ,  belonging  to  Senor  Jose  Estruch 
and  opened  to  the  public  in  1888.  It  consists  of  an  extensive  col- 
lection of  weapons,  flags,  and  other  objects,  tastefully  arranged  in  a 
fine  hall  lighted  from  above.  It  is  open  10-12  and  2-4  (fee  72"!  P« ; 
catalogue  1  p.). 

The  most  valuable  objects  are  arranged  on  the  rear-wall  of  the  room. 
Among  these  are  Phoenician,  Carthaginian,  and  Roman  weapons  (No.  1836. 
Phoenician  sword  found  in  the  province  of  Teruel)  •,  two  Rrankiah  swords 
rSkramasax;  Nos.  1273,  1325);  two  swords  of  the  9th  cent.  (Nos.  1260, 
1264);  a  sword  of  the  12th  cent.  (No.  572);  two  Moorish  helmets  of  the 
14th  and  16th  cent.  (Nos.  485,  508) ;  Gatalonian  weapons ;  numerous  Toledo 
blades  of  the  16-17th  cent. ;  a  lansquenet^s  banner;  flags  from  the  Thirty 
Years'  War ;  suits  of  armour,  fire-arms,  etc. 

A  little  above  the  museum,  at  the  point  where  the  Rambla  inter- 
sects the  Calle  de  las  Cortes,  is  a  statue  of  the  Catalan  political  econ- 
omist Ouell  (1800-1872),  with  various  allegorical  figures,  executed 
by  Martorell  and  Nobas  and  erected  in  1888.  At  the  intersection  of 
the  Calle  de  Valencia  (PI.  I ;  G,  6)  is  a  monument  by  Vilaseca  (also 
erected  in  1888),  commemorating  Jose  Anselmo  Clave  (1824-74), 
a  Catalan  poet  and  musician,  and  founder  of  the  well-known  Coros 
de  Clave  (male  choral  societies). 

On  the  N.W.  the  Plaza  de  Catalufia  is  bounded  by  the  ^Faseo 
de  Oracia  (PI.  G,  8-5),  a  fine  boulevard,  8/4  M.  long  and  200  ft. 
wide.  It  is  shaded  by  four  rows  of  plane-trees  and  is  much  fre- 
quented in  the  evening. 

From  the  E.  angle  of  the  Plaza  de  Catalufia  the  narrow  Plaza  de 
Santa  Ana  leads  towards  the  cathedral.  To  the  left  (S.)  of  it  is  the 
Romanesque  church  of  Santa  Ana  (PL  G,  8),  built  by  Guillermo  II., 
Patriarch  of  Jerusalem,  in  1146  and  said  to  have  been  modelled  on 
the  church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre.  It  was  originally  a  cruciform 
structure,  with  four  rectangular  arms  of  equal  size  and  roofed  with 
barrel- vaulting.  The  W.  arm  was,  however,  subsequently  extended 
by  the  addition  of  two  Gothic  bays  with  quadripartite  vaulting.  To 
the  left  of  the  entrance  is  the  tomb  of  Miguel  Boera,  an  eminent 
military  commander  under  Ferdinand  the  Catholic  and  Charles  V.  — 
On  the  W.  the  church  is  adjoined  by  Gothic  Cloisters  of  the  14th 
cent.,  standing  askew  to  it  and  rising  in  two  stories.  The  S.E.  walk 
of  these  opens  on  the  chapter-house. 


o 

ft. 


C    CL    I   I 


I.CapiacL  de  Sarv  Oemente' 
^     1,       »       de  S.Sa^rmundo  de  Ber^u/br't/ 
3.       '/       de  San^ M^uel  Jjrdn^fel/ 
4t.       "      deJV.S.delJ'iatrodnw 

5.  "       de  Santo  Oisto  de  ZepaiUo 

6.  '/       de  los  Santas  Ihocentes 
LPaJbeUoTv  de  San  Jorge 


§.Severa 

Yz  \  -  - :  ■  • 


^*N-l 


^"^ 


^wSpi0^fc5S««r!iieipnr 


Cathedral.  BARCELONA.  16.  Route,   203 

b.  The  Cathedral  and  its  Keighbonrhood  (Plata  del  Bey,  Plaia 
de  la  Coxistituoi6n). 

The  ^Cathedral  (PI.  G,  9;  comp.  the  accompanying  plan), 
named  originally  Santa  Cruz  and  afterwards  also  Santa  Eulaliay  in 
honour  of  the  tutelar  of  the  city,  is  one  of  the  noblest  creations 
of  Spanish  Gothic.  It  stands  upon  the  highest  point  of  ancient  Bar- 
celona, on  a  site  originally  occupied  by  a  Roman  temple  and  later 
by  a  Moorish  mosque.  The  earliest  Christian  edifice  here  was  con- 
secrated in  1058,  but  the  only  parts  of  it  remaining  are  the  portals 
leading  from  the  cloisters  (p.  206)  to  the  S.W.  transept  and  the 
chapel  of  Santa  Lucia.  The  building  of  the  present  church  was 
begun  in  May,  1298.  The  first  architect  of  importance  engaged  in 
the  work  seems  to  have  been  Jaime  Fdbrt  of  Palma,  in  the  is- 
land of  Mallorca,  who  was  summoned  to  the  office  of  superintend- 
ent in  1318.  In  1339  the  crypt  was  finished  and  dedicated  to 
Santa  Eulalia.  In  1388  Maeatre  Roque  succeeded  Fabre  and  erected 
the  cloisters.  He  was  followed  by  BartolonU  Qual  and  Andria 
Escudefy  the  latter  of  whom  placed  the  keystone  of  the  vaulting 
in  position  on  Sept.  26th,  1448.  The  scale  of  the  building  Ms  by 
no  means  great,  yet  the  arrangement  of  the  various  parts  is  so 
good,  the  skill  in  the  admission  of  light  so  subtle,  and  the  height 
and  width  of  the  nave  so  noble,  that  an  impression  is  always  con- 
veyed to  the  mind  that  its  size  is  far  greater  than  it  really  is'  (Street). 
The  nave,  which  is  partly  blocked  up  by  the  coro,  has  a  small  tri- 
forlum  over  its  main  arches ;  the  aisles  are  flanked  by  rows  of  ohapels ; 
the  transepts  project  but  slightly  beyond  the  main  walls;  the  E.  end 
presents  the  French  arrangement  of  a  single  apse  surrounded  by  an 
ambulatory  and  radiating  chapels.  The  church  is  so  closely  hemmed 
in  by  the  adjoining  buildings,  that  the  only  part  of  the  exterior 
freely  exposed  to  view  is  the  modem  N.W.  facade  (finished  in  1890), 
in  the  Plaza  de  la  Gated ral.  This  is  approached  by  a  wide  flight  of 
steps.  The  octagonal  Cimborio,  above  the  first  bay  of  the  nave,  was 
left  unfinished,  but  the  work  of  completing  it  was  undertaken  in 
1895.  The  two  transeptal  towers,  170  ft.  high,  were  built  in  the 
middle  ages. 

To  the  right  and  left  of  the  Puerta  de  San  Ivoy  or  N.E.  doorway, 
in  the  Calle  de  los  Condes  de  Barcelona,  are  two  inscriptions  relating 
to  the  building  of  the  church  (1298  and  1329).  Above  the  door  is  a 
relief  of  the  fight  between  Vilardell  and  the  Dragon.  (According  to 
the  legend,  YUardell  was  a  knight  who  slew  a  monstrous  dragon  let 
loose  upon  the  Christians  by  the  Moors.  Thereupon  he  held  his 
sword  aloft,  boasting  of  the  victory,  but  was  instantly  killed  by  some 
drops  of  the  poisonous  dragon's  blood  trickling  down  upon  him  from 
the  blade,  'Dios  castigaudo  su  vana  gloria'.) 

The  *Intebioe,  which  is  275  ft.  long  and  122  ft.  wide,  is  very 
dark,  but  makes  an  impression  of  great  dignity  and  solemnity,  es- 
pecially by  the  dimensions  of  the  nave  (82  ft.  high  and  42  ft.  wide). 


204   Route  16.  BARCELONA.  Cathedrca. 

The  windows,  wliicli  are  unusually  small,  are  filled  with  maff^lfleent 
Stained  Olaas  of  the  15th  cent.,  and  the  llght-efFects  at  sunset  are 
very  gorgeous.  Lofty  clustered  columns  (20  in  all)  separate  the 
nave  from  the  aisles  and  the  capilla  mayor  from  the  ambulatory.  — 
On  entering  by  the  Puerta  Mayor,  or  N.  W.  portal,  we  find  ourselves 
below  the  octagonal  lantern.  To  the  right  opens  the  large  Capilla 
DEL  Santisimo  Saobambnto  or  DB  San  Olboario  (also  entered 
from  the  cloisters),  which  is  roofed  with  fine  star -vaulting  and 
contains  the  Alabaster  Monument  of  Bishop  Olegarius  (d.  1136), 
erected  in  the  17th  century.  The  paintings  are  by  Ant.  Viladomat 
(p.  201).  —  The  26  Smaller  Chapels  date  chiefly  from  the  16- 
17th  cent.,  and  their  altars  and  pictures  are  usually  worthless.  The 
Capilla  de  San  Clemente  (PI.  1),  to  the  left  of  the  Chapel  of  St.  Ole- 
garius ,  contains  the  tasteful  Gothic  Tomb  of  Sancha  XimSnez  de 
Cabrera.  In  the  Capilla  de  San  Raymundo  de  Penyafort  (PI.  2), 
in  the  middle  of  the  right  aisle,  is  a  Sarcophagus  containing  the 
remains  of  St.  Raymond,  brought  from  the  ruined  convent  of  Santa 
Catalina.  In  the  ambulatory  is  the  Capilla  de  San  Miguel  Arcangel 
(PI.  3) ,  containing  the  superb  Monument  of  Bishop  Berenguer  de 
Palou  (d.  1240).  The  Capilla  de  Nuestra  Sefiora  del  Patrocinio 
(PI.  4),  adjoining  the  last,  contains  the  Tomh  of  Bishop  Poncio  de 
QudlJba  (d.  1334).  —  Immediately  behind  the  capilla  mayor  is  the 
Capilla  de  Santo  Cristo  de  Lepanto  (Pi.  5),  containing  the  so-called 
Christ  of  Lepanto,  which  Don  John  of  Austria  is  said  to  have  carried 
in  his  flag-ship  at  the  famous  battle  of  Oct.  6th,  1671.  The  unusual 
attitude  of  the  Saviour  has  given  rise  to  the  belief  that  the  sacred 
image  bent  its  head  to  escape  a  Turkish  bullet.  —  The  Capilla  de 
los  Inocentes  (PI.  6),  the  last  on  the  N.  side  of  the  ambulatory,  is 
adorned  by  the  handsome  Gothic  Monumerd  of  Bishop  Ramon  de 
Fscaler,  dating  from  the  end  of  the  15th  century. 

Nave.  The  Trascoro,  or  N.W.  end  of  the  core,  is  adorned  with 
four  admirable  *  Reliefs  by  BartolomS  Ordonez  (?)  and  Pedro  Vilar 
of  Saragossa  (1564),  representing  scenes  from  the  life  of  St.  E^lalia. 
The  silleria  is  finely  carved;  the  lower  row  is  by  Matias  Bonafe 
(1457),  the  upper  row  and  the  canopies  are  "by  Michael Loker  (Loquer; 
1483),  perhaps  a  German  sculptor.  The  coats-of-arms  above  the 
stalls  recall  the  chapter  of  the  Order  of  the  Golden  Fleece  (Toison 
de  Oro),  held  here  by  Charles  V.  on  March  6th,  1519.  This  brilliant 
gathering  was  attended  by  King  Christian  of  Denmark,  King  Sigis- 
mund  of  Poland,  the  Prince  of  Orange,  the  Duke  of  Alba,  and  nu- 
merous other  grandees  of  Spain  and  nobles  of  Flanders.  The  Epis- 
copal Throne  and  the  Pulpit^  with  its  fine  staircase  (N.E.  side), 
should  also  be  examined. 

The  Transept  contains  some  beautiful  aranas  or  chandeliers. 
Below  the  organ,  in  the  N.E.  arm,  is  a  colossal  Saracen's  head,  such 
as  are  common  in  Catalonian  churches. 

The  Capilla  Mayor  contains  a  late-Gothic  retablo  of  the  15th 


Cathedral.  BARCELONA.  16.  Rouit,   205 

cent.,  below  which  is  a  Bateophogru  with  the  remains  of  St.  Se- 
verus.  —  A  flight  of  26  steps  descends  hence  to  the  Obtpt  (Iglesia 
Soitrranea),  built  by  Jaime  Fabrc  (p.  203)  and  containing  the  Tonib 
of  8e,  EulaUaj  whose  body  was  transferred  from  the  church  of  Santa 
Maria  del  Mar  (p.  208)  to  this  resting-place  in  1339.  The  beautiful 
alabaster  shrine  of  13^7  is  adorned  with  reliefs  from  the  life  of  the 
saint  and  is  supported  by  ancient  Corinthian  columns. 

Tae^AscsNT  op  thb  S.W.  Towsb  of  the  transept  (adm.,  on  week-days  only, 
from  the  interior  of  the  church  ^  210  8tep8 ;  fatrriptan,  1  p.)  is  recommended 
for  the  excellent  view  it  affor.lfl  of  tlie  flat  roofs  of  th*  cathedrul,  the  cloisters, 
and  the  N.E.  tower,  as  well  as  for  the  noble  pro'^pect  over  the  plain  of 
Barcelona,  with  the  Tibidabo  on  the  N.  and  the  Montjuich  on  the  8. 

On  the  S.W.  the  cathedral  is  adjoined  by  magnificent  Gothic 
*Cix>i8TSB8  (CUautroJj  which  may  be  entered  either  from  the  interior 
of  the  church  by  the  Puerta  de  San  Severo ,  from  the  Calle  de  la 
Piedad;  to  the  S.,  by  the  Puerta  de  la  Piedad,  from  the  Calle  de 
Obispo  (S.W.)  by  the  Puerta  de  Santa  Eulalia,  or  from  the  Capilla 
de  Santa  Luda  in  the  W.  comer.  The  building  of  the  cloisters  was 
begun  by  Maeatre  Roque  (p.  203)  and  was  finished  in  1448.  Along 
the  N.E.  walk  is  a  row  of  chapels ,  placed  back  to  back  with  the 
chapels  of  the  S.W.  aisle  of  the  church,  the  windows  in  the  com- 
mon wall  serring  for  both.  The  inner  court  of  the  cloisters  consists 
of  a  picturesque  but  untidy  garden,  with  palms,  araucarias,  orange 
trees,  buge  geraniums,  and  medlars.  To  the  S.E.  lies  the  Fuente  de 
las  Ocatf  a  small  goose-pond.  Adjacent  is  the  PabeU6n  de  San  Jorge 
(PI.  7),  containing  an  equestrian  statuette  of  St.  George,  which  serves 
as  a  fountain.  The  middle  doors  in  the  N.W.  walk,  adjoining  the 
Cbapel  of  Santa  Luciaj  lead  to  the  Secretaria  del  Capitulo  and  the 
Sola  Capitular.  The  latter  contains  the  Yirgen  de  la  Piedad,  a  fine 
painting  by  Bartolomi  Bermejo  of  Cordova  (1490). 

The  walls  of  the  cloisters  are  adorned  with  faded  frescoes  and  arc 
lined  by  a  number  ol  interesting  tombstones,  chiefly  of  the  12-16th  centuries. 
By  the  N.W.  wall  are  those  of  Antonio  TaUtmder^  surnamcd  Mouin  Borrd 
(d.  1433),  the  court- fool  of  Aifonto  V.  of  Aragon,  and  Francisco  Despld 
(d.  1453),  a  chorifter  of  the  cathedral.  In  the  S.W.  walk,  in  the  2nd 
cbapel  to  the  left  of  the  Puerta  de  Santa  Eulalia  (see  above),  are  two  plain 
Sarcophagi  J  containing  the  remains  of  Al/ongo  JJJ.  of  Aragon  (d.  1291),  the  In- 
/emUs  Don  Jaime  and  Don  J-'adrique^  und  Queens  Constance^  Maria,  and  Sibila. 

In  theyicinity  of  the  cathedral  are  a  few  interesting  old  buildings. 
To  the  N.W.,  in  the  Plaza  de  la  Catedral,  is  the  Canonja  (canonry), 
dating  from  the  16th  cent. ;  on  the  back  of  the  building,  in  the  Calle 
de  la  Tapineiia,  is  the  inscription  ^Almoyna  (* House  of  the  Al- 
moner'). At  No.  21  Calle  Corribia  is  the  Casa  Gremial  de  loa  Zapa- 
t«ro«  (Shoemakers^  Guildhouse),  a  Renaissance  building  of  1545.  To 
the  W.,  at  the  comer  of  the  CaUe  del  Obispo,  stands  the  Palacio 
Efiscopai.  (pi.  G,  9),  which  seems  to  have  occupied  this  site  since 
926,  though  rebuilt  in  1606  and  again  in  the  18th  century.  It  in- 
corporates some  Romanesque  remains.  —  In  the  court  of  No.  18  of 
the  Calle  de  Paradise  which  leads  from  the  back  of  the  cathedral  to 


206  BovAtie,  BARCELONA.     Ca9adtlaDif%daci6n, 

the  Plaza  de  la  Con8titiici6n  (see  below),  are  immured  three  Corinth- 
ian columns,  about  60  ft.  in  height.  These  are  evidently  the  re- 
mains of  the  portico  of  a  Roman  temple,  which  tradition  describes 
as  dedicated  to  Hercules,  the  mythical  founder  of  Barcelona.  A 
large  stone  in  the  pavement  of  this  narrow  street  marks  the  highest 
point  of  old  Barcelona  (p.  197). 

From  the  E.  angle  of  the  cathedral  the  short  Bajada  de  Santa 
Clara  descends  to  the  small  and  picturesque  Plaza  dbl  Rbt  (PI.  II; 
G,  9),  formerly  the  central  part  of  the  old  palace  of  the  Counts  of 
Barcelona  and  Kings  of  Aragon.  On  the  W.  this  plaza  is  bounded 
by  the  Archive  General  de  la  Corona  de  Aragon,  a  Gothic  structure 
erected  by  Antonio  Carhonell  for  Charles  V.  It  encloses  a  quadrangular 
court,  and  the  staircase  is  roofed  in  by  a  beautifully  carved  wooden 
cupola  (*media  naranja').  The  Abchiyes  (open  9-1)  are  on  the  first 
floor  and  rival  those  of  Simancas  in  completeness  and  interest  (about 
four  million  documents;  MSS.  from  the  convents  of  Ripoll,  San 
Cucufate,  etc.).  —  Opposite,  on  the  N.E.  side  of  the  square  (No.  16), 
is  the  Capilla  Real  de  8anfa  Aguida^  formerly  the  chapel  of  the  royal 
palace  and  now  (since  1879)  containing  the  Pbovincial  Museum. 
It  is  an  early-Gothic  structure  of  the  13th  cent.,  with  a  lofty  nave 
and  a  groined  apse,  and  differs  materially  in  style  from  the  other 
churches  of  Barcelona.  The  museum  consists  of  a  not  very  important 
collection  of  Roman  and  mediasval  antiquities,  architectural  frag- 
ments, sculptures,  mosaics,  coins,  and  medals.  It  is  open  daily, 
9-1 ;  the  conseije  (Plaza  del  Rey  14)  is  generally  to  be  found  in  the 
museum  (fee  V2-I  P-  ?  catalogue  3  p.). 

In  the  GouBT  are  a  column  from  the  above-mentioned  house  in  the 
Calle  de  Paradis,  some  gargoyles,  and  other  objects.  —  Intbbiob.  In  the 
middle  :  998,  999.  Two  iron  cannon  found  in  the  harbour  of  Barcelona ; 
717,  718.  Roman  columns  of  granite ;  716.  Marble  statue  of  a  Roman  matron  -, 
1152.  Large  Roman  mosaic  from  Palau,  By  the  left  wall:  1042-1052. 
Roman  portraits  in  relief^  863,  Last  Judgment,  an  altar-piece  of  the  16ih 
cent. ;  8o9,  870.  Roman  sarcophagi,  with  reliefs  of  the  Rape  of  Proserpine 
and  of  a  lion-hunt 5  832.  Gilded  wooden  reliquary  from  San  Cngat  del 
Vall^s,  with  reliefs  of  scenes  from  the  legend  of  St.  Candidus  (13th  cent.). 
In  the  apse:  804-813.  Ten  mutilated  marble  figures  of  Apostles  (16th  cent.), 
from  the  church  of  San  Miguel  at  Barcelona,  pulled  down  in  1874;  848, 
849.  Altar-piece  of  the  Chapel  of  St.  Agueda  (15th  cent.). 

The  Calle  del  Obispo,  skirting  the  S.W.  side  of  the  cathedral 
cloisters,  leads  to  the  S.E.  to  the  handsome  Plaza  db  la  Constitu- 
cioN  (PI.  II,  G  9 ;  formerly  Plaza  de  San  Jaime),  with  the  Casa  de 
la  Diputaci6n  to  the  N.W.  and  the  Casa  Consistorial  to  the  S.E. 

The  *Ca8a  de  la  Diputaci6n  (PI.  II ;  G,  9),  a  handsome  building 
of  the  15th  cent.,  restored  by  Pedro  Blay,  partly  in  the  Renaissance 
style,  in  1698,  contains  the  chambers  of  the  Diputaci6n  Provincial, 
the  Audiencia,  and  the  Chapel  of  St.  Oeorge.  The  fine  Gothic  facade 
towards  the  Calle  del  Obispo  is  16th  cent.  work.  This  is  surmounted 
by  a  handsome  balustrade,  with  numerous  curious  gargoyles,  below 
which  is  a  small  frieze  with  27  heads.  Over  what  used  to  be  the 
main  entrance  of  the  building  is  a  relief  of  St.  George  and  the  Drag- 


Ca$a  Cofuistorial.         BARCELONA.  16,  Route.  207 

oil.  The  modernized  forc-conrt  of  the  Diput&ci6n  is  separated  by 
a  fine  iron  grille  from  the  magnificent  patio  of  the  Audiencia  (side 
entrance  from  the  Calle  San  Honorato).  This  latter  is  surrounded 
by  buildings  of  three  stories,  the  second  consisting  of  a  cloister-like 
arcade.  A  staircase  leads  hence  to  the  first  floor  and  to  a  third  court 
named  the  Paiio  de  loa  NaranjoSy  which  is  embellished  with  orange 
trees  and  numerous  Gothic  gargoyles. 

The  Imtkbiok  (not  always  accessible)  is  Bhown  by  two  conserjes,  one 
for  the  Dipataci6n  and  the  other  for  the  Audiencia  and  Chapel  of  St. 
George  (fee  to  each  V«-i  PO-  —  Tii^  main  front-building  is  occupied  by 
the  Casa  4e  la  Dipataeibii,  with  the  chambers  of  the  provincial  deputies. 
The  Detpiuho  de  la  Presideneia  contain*  three  pictures  by  Fortuny  (d.  228). 
The  ScUdn  Rojo  if  the  meeting-place  of  the  Provincial  Ck>ancil.  In  the 
large  SalOn  de  San  Jorge  are  a  Judas  by  Bimon  Gomes f  the  ^Spoliarium*  of 
Luna  Notricio  (a  fallen  gladiator  being  dragged  from  the  arena  to  the 
Spoltarium^  painted  in  1884);  General  Prim  fighting  in  Korocco,  a  painting 
by  8an»;  several  pictures  of  the  i6th  cent.;  and  a  bronze  statue  of  Dante, 
by  BtAol.  Adjacent  is  the  Baidn  de  Betionee,  or  chamber  of  the  deputies ; 
it  contains  an  unfinished  picture  by  Fortuny  (Battle  of  Tetuan)  and  a 
portrait  of  Alfonso  XII.  by  JfarH.  —  We  now  proceed  by  the  above-men- 
tioned staircase  or  by  the  corridor  connecting  the  two  part*  of  the  building, 
with  its  Gothic  arches  and  graceful  clustered  shafts,  to  the  Audiencia, 
passing  the  door  of  8t  George's  Chapel  (see  below).  The  Saldn  de  loe  Reyet^ 
the  chief  room  here,  includes  portraits  of  all  the  Condes  of  Barcelona, 
including  the  'Condesa'  Queen  Isabella  II.  Farther  on  are  the  Sola  de  loe 
PUUoe^  the  Saia  Civile  and  the  Sola  Crltninai,  with  a  fine  artesonado  ceil> 
ing.  —  We  next  return  to  the  *Capilla  de  San  Jorge,  which  if  entered  by 
an  elaborately  decorated  Gothic  portal  in  sandftone.  The  architecture  of 
the  interior  is  simple.  On  the  walls  hang  large  piecea  of  tapestry  (tapieee). 
The  JSaerisip  contams  miniatures  and  ecclesiastical  decorations,  including 
a  superb  embroidered  *Altar  Frontal  of  the  15th  cent.,  representing  St. 
George  and  the  Dragon. 

The  Casa  Coniistorial  (PL  II;  G,  9)  dates  from  1369-78.  The 
facade,  which  has  been  modernized,  is  embellished  with  marble 
statues  of  Jaime  el  Conquistador  and  Fivaller,  Conseller  II.  de  Bar- 
celona. The  oblong  patio  is  fine.  The  handsome  Sal&n  de  Ciento 
(reached  from  the  patio  by  the  great  staircase)  is  90  ft.  long,  40  ft. 
wide,  and  46  ft.  high.  The  adjoining  passage  has  a  beautiful  wooden 
ceiling  and  contains  an  admirable  specimen  of  the  ^ajimesi'  windows 
so  common  in  Catalonia  and  Valencia;  it  is  divided  into  three  lights 
by  marble  shafts  only  3  inches  in  diameter.  The  other  rooms  are 
uninteresting  and  seldom  accessible.  —  On  the  second  floor  is  the 
Abchiyo  Municipal  (open  ou  week-days,  10-1  and  4-6).  This  con- 
tains a  celebrated  *Altar  Piece  by  Luis  Dalmau,  painted  for  the 
chapel  of  the  town-hall  in  1446  and  representing  the  Ave  town-coun- 
cillors being  introduced  to  the  Madonna  by  SS.  Eulalia  and  Andrew; 
a  17th  cent,  plan  of  Barcelona ;  a  plan  of  the  Ensanche  (p.  197)  by 
Ildefons  Cerd^;  the  Rubrica  de  Bruniquer  (1330),  the  Llibre  Vert 
(green),  the  Llibre  Vermeil  (red),  with  a  list  of  the  city's  priv- 
ileges, and  other  interesting  MSS.  relating  to  the  history  of  Barcelona. 

In  the  Plaza  de  San  Justo,  a  few  paces  to  the  S.E.,  is  the  Gothic 
church  of  Santos  Justo  y  Pastor  (PI.  G,  9),  one  of  the  earliest  Christian 
churches  in  Barcelona,  built  in  1300.  It  consists  of  an  aisleless  nave. 


208   RouU  16,  BARCELONA.         Plaza  del  Palacio, 

45  ft.  wide ,  with  chapels  between  the  buttresses.     The  facade  is 
flanked  with  two  polygonal  towers. 

The  Calle  de  Jaime  Primeio,  beginning  at  the  E.  angle  of  the 
Plaza  de  la  Constituci6n,  leads  to  the  Plata  de  Angel  (PI.  II ;  G,  9), 
beyond  which  it  is  continued,  as  the  Calle  de  la  Ptineesa,  to  the  park 
(p.  209).  -—  From  the  Plaza  de  Angel  the  CaUe  Plateria,  with  the 
shops  of  the  goldsmiths  and  silversmiths,  runs  to  theE.  to  the  church 
of  8.  Maria  del  Mar  (see  below). 

c.  Plaza  del  Palacio.  The  Park  and  Korth-Eastern  Quarters 
of  the  City. 

From  the  N.  end  of  the  Paseo  de  Col6n  (p,  199)  the  short  Paseo 
de  Isabel  Segunda  leads  to  the  — 

Plaza  db  Palaoio  (PI.  H,  9,  10),  the  central  point  of  the  mar- 
itime activity  of  Barcelona.  It  is  adjoined  by  the  Lonja  (see  below), 
the  Aduana  (custom-house),  the  Depodto  Comercialj  or  bonded  ware- 
house for  foreign  goods,  and  the  ot'flces  of  steamboat-companies  and 
merchants.  A  charming  view  is  obtained  of  the  coffln-shaped  Mont- 
juich  through  the  vista  of  the  plane-trees  in  the  Paseo  de  Col<5n.  To 
the  left  lie  Barceloneta  (p.  210)  and  the  harbour.  In  the  middle  of 
the  plaza  stands  a  handsome  Marble  Foimtain,  designed  by  Molina 
and  erected  in  1856.  Below  are  groups  of  playing  children,  hippo- 
potami, etc. ;  in  the  middle  are  the  four  provinces  of  Catalonia ;  at 
the  top  is  the  winged  Genius  of  Barcelona.  The  inscription  com- 
memorates B.  de  Quir6s,  Marques  de  Campo  Sangrado,  formerly 
Captain-General  of  Catalonia,  under  whom  the  water  of  the  Befi6s 
was  brought  from  Moncada  (p.  192)  to  Barcelona. 

The  Casa  Lonja  (PI.  II  j  G,  H,  9),  or  Exchange  (business-hours 
1-4),  formerly  named  Casa  dels  Camhis,  was  built  by  Peter  IV.  of 
Aragon  in  1382  and  entirely  modernized  in  1772.  Over  the  project- 
ing lower  story  rises  a  facade  with  a  gable-roof.  The  only  remaining 
part  of  the  original  building  is  the  Gothic  Sctla  de  Contrataciones,  a 
hall  100  ft.  long  and  75  ft.  wide,  divided  into  nave  and  aisles  by 
four  columns.  The  other  rooms  contain  a  small  collection  of  pictures, 
including  scenes  from  the  life  of  St.  Francis  by  Viladomat  (p.  201) ; 
also  statues  of  an  Aragonese  warrior  and  Laocoon,  by  Campeny 
(d.  1855),  and  two  gladiators  by  Bovey. 

The  PasSo  de  la  Aduana  (PI.  II;  H,  9)  leads  to  the  N.  from  the 
Plaza  de  Palacio  to  the  park  fsee  p.  209). 

A  little  to  the  N.W.  stands  the  Gothic  church  of  *8anta  Maria 
del  Mar  (PI.  H;  H,  9),  erected  in  1328-83  on  the  site  of  a  chapel 
of  St.  Eulalia.  The  ground-plan  shows  a  nave  and  aisles,  flanked 
on  each  side  by  chapels  and  adjoined,  without  the  intervention  of  a 
transept,  by  a  heptagonal  apse  with  ambulatory  and  radiating  chapels. 
The  beautiful  favade,  with  its  large  portal  and  rose- window  in  the 
late-Gothic  style,  is  flanked  by  two  slender  octagoual  towers.    The 


Park.  BARCELONA.  16.  RouU,   209 

two  bioiize  figures  of  porters,  &t  the  doorway,  oommemorate  the  anre- 
munerated  service  given  by  the  poorer  classes  in  building  the  church. 
The  imposing  Interior  has  been  somewhat  marred  by  modernization 
in  the  18th  centary.  The  proportions  of  the  Nave  are  even  bolder  than 
those  of  the  cathedral,  its  width  being  about  the  same  (42  ft.)«  while  Its 
height  is  112  ft.  The  aisles  are  narrow.  The  chapels,  of  which  there  are 
three  to  each  bay,  are  enclosed  between  the  buttresses.  —  Behind  the  high 
altar  are  five  scenes  from  the  Passion  by  Viladomat  (p.  201),  and  there  are 
two  more  in  the  Cemitta  d»  Iom  Comdore*  Reaitt  de  CambioB.  The  statue  of 
St.  Alejo,  at  the  W.  end  of  the  eoro,  is  by  A.  PMjol  de  Vik^imca  (1643). 
GLOn  June  7th,  1886,  just  as  the  Corpus  Chris ti  procession  was  enter- 
ing this  church,  a  bomb  was  thrown  into  the  crowd  of  onlookers  by  an 
anarchist)  12  people  were  killed  on  the  spot  and  about  60  others  injured. 

Beyond  this  church  runs  the  Calle  Moncada,  with  the  old  Caaa 
Dalmoies  (^No.  20)  and  remains  of  other  private  houses  in  the  Gothic 
style.  To  the  N.E.  of  the  church  lie  the  Plaza  del  Borne  and  the 
Mereado  del  Borne  (Pi.  H,  9),  where  an  interesting  fish  and  vege- 
table market  is  held  in  the  morning.  Farther  to  the  N.E.  is  the 
Pas^o  de  la  Industria,  skirting  the  S.E.  side  of  the  park. 

The  *Parque  y  Jardinei  de  la  Ciudadela  (PL  H,  I,  9,  10)  oc- 
cupies the  site  of  the  citadel  buUt  by  Philip  V.  in  1714,  which  was 
rased  in  1868.  It  covers  an  area  of  about  75  acres,  and  contains 
wide  avenues  of  magnolias  and  other  trees,  parterres  of  flowers, 
numerous  rare  plants,  and  beautiful  sheets  of  water.  At  the  main 
(S.W.)  entrance,  opposite  the  Pas^o  de  la  Aduana  (p.  208),  rises  a 
bronze  Equestrian  Statue  of  General  Prim,  by  Puigjaner.  From  this 
point  the  Pas(^o  de  los  Tilos  leads  to  the  N.W.  to  another  of  the 
principal  entrances,  adjoining  the  Sal6n  de  San  Juan.  To  the  left 
of  this  pas^o  lie  a  Palm  House  (Vmbrdculo),  the  Museo  Martorell 
(natural  history  collections),  the  Invemdculo  (conservatory),  and  the 
Museo  de  la  Historian  containing  an  unimportant  collection  of  ar- 
chaeological objects.  The  Pastfo  de  los  Alamos,  on  the  N.W.  side  of 
the  park,  leads  past  the  monument  of  Aribau^  a  Catalan  poet,  by 
Vilaseca  and  Fui4  (1884),  to  the  N.E.  Pastfo  de  los  Olmos.  The 
latter  is  adjoined  by  a  small  Zoological  Garden^  beyond  which  is  the 
Depdsito  for  watering  the  gardens.  —  In  the  angle  formed  by  the 
Passes  de  los  Alamos  and  de  los  Olmos  is  the  Ckucada  del  Parque. 
a  large  and  fantastic  grotto,  with  a  tower,  groups  of  statuary,  and  so 
on.  Opposite,  on  the  bank  of  the  central  pond,  is  the  Cafi del  Parque. 
—  Farther  to  the  S.E.  are  three  buildings  dating  from  the  time  of 
Philip  V. :  the  Palacio  Real ;  the  Pabelldn  del  Oohemador  de  la  Plaza, 
which  has  been  re-christened  Pabelldn  de  la  Reina  Regente  since  the 
international  exhibition  of  1888;  and  the  former  Church  of  the  citadel, 
now  transformed  into  a  Pante6n  de  Catalans  Iluslres.  —  At  the  S.E. 
end  of  the  park  is  the*Jlfu«eo  de  Reproduccionesy  a  relic  of  the  exhib- 
ition, containing  plaster-casts.  A  bridge  leads  hence  over  the  railway 
to  the  former  8ecci6n  Maritima  of  the  exhibition  and  to  the  sea. 

In  the  Sal6n  de  San  Juan,  adjoining  the  above-mentioned  entrance 
to  the  park,  stands  the  new  Palacio  de  Bellas  Artes  (PI.  11 ;  H,  9) 

BarOxkbb's  Spain.  14 


210   R<nUe  16,  BARCELONA.  Mon^uieh, 

in  which  the  Museo  Municipal  de  Bellas  Artea  is  now  in  process  of 
fonnation.  Exhihitions  of  paintings  and  scnlptures  are  held  here 
every  few  years.  To  the  right  are  the  Palaeio  de  Ciendas  (PI.  I,  9} 
and  the  Palaeio  de  Agricultura  (PI.  I,  9),  both  built  for  the  exhi- 
bition of  1888,  and  now  being  pulled  down.  —  To  the  N.W.  of  the 
Pal.  de  Oiencias  rises  the  new  Palaeio  de  Justicia  (PI.  I,  8),  to  which 
the  Audiencia  (p.  206)  is  to  be  transferred.  —  The  Sal6n  de  San 
Juan  ends  on  the  N.W.  at  the  Arco  de  Triunfo  (PI.  II ;  H,  8),  erected 
in  1888  by  Vilaseca  as  the  entrance  of  the  exhibition  and  adorned 
with  reliefs. 

In  the  N.  angle  of  the  old  city,  near  the  Sal6n  de  San  Juan,  lies  the 
old  church  of  San  Pedro  de  Ua  Pnellaa  (PI.  II;  H,  8),  founded  in  946  bjr 
Count  Suniario  and  formerly  attached  to  a  Benedictine  nunnery.  Its  orig- 
inal design  was  similar  to  that  of  San  Pablo  del  Campo  (p.  201),  but  the 
building  has  been  frequently  altered,  especially  in  consequence  of  the 
ravages  it  suffered  during  the  contests  of  1714. 

To  the  S.  of  the  park,  on  the  other  side  of  the  railway,  is  the 
Pas]6o  db  San  Carlos,  containing  the  Bull  Ring  (PI.  H,  10).  Beyond 
this,  on  the  peninsula  to  the  E.  of  the  harbour,  lies  the  suburb  of 
Barceloneta  (PI.  I ;  H,  10, 11),  which  was  established  by  the  Marques 
de  la  Mina  to  provide  accommodation  for  the  occupants  of  the  1200 
houses  torn  down  to  make  room  for  the  citadel  (p.  209).  At  present 
Barceloneta  contains  about  12,000  inhab.,  most  of  whom  are  con- 
nected in  some  way  with  the  sea.  In  the  same  quarter  are  two  bar- 
racks, the  church  of  San  Miguel  del  Puerto,  an  iron  foundry,  and  a 
ship-building  yard.  The  adjacent  part  of  the  harbour  is  filled  with 
fishing-boats.  The  S.E.  side  of  Barceloneta,  with  the  baths  mentioned 
at  p.  196,  is  exposed  to  the  full  sweep  of  the  Mediterranean. 

The  dusty  Pas^o  del  Gementebio  (PI.  I ;  I,  K,  L,  10),  prolong- 
ing the  Pas^o  de  San  Carlos  towards  the  E.,  leads  past  a  series  of 
large  docks  (r.)  to  the  suburb  of  Pueblo  Nuevo  and  the  E.  cemetery. 

The  Cementerio  del  Este  (PI.  I,  L  10;  tramway,  see  p.  195)  is 
divided  by  high  walls  into  16  sections.  These  walls  contain  oblong 
niches,  arranged  in  rows  one  above  another  and  having  their  narrow 
ends  turned  to  the  walks  between.  The  coffins  of  the  dead  are  thrust 
into  the  niches,  like  bottles  in  the  pigeon-holes  of  a  wine-cellar, 
and  the  opening  is  then  closed.  Niches  which  have  not  been  pur- 
chased outright  remain  the  property  of  the  city,  and  the  remains  of 
the  dead  are  removed  after  four  years  to  the  Osdrio  Comun.  This 
form  of  burial  has  been  practised  in  Spain  for  many  centuries.  — 
At  the  E.  end  stands  a  handsome  Chapel,  surrounded  by  cypresses 
and  by  the  graves  of  the  richer  Inhabitants,  many  with  fine  mon- 
uments.   Behind  the  chapel  lies  the  cemetery  of  the  poor. 

d.  The  Montjnicli. 

The  Montjuich  (750  ft.)  is  an  isolated  ridge  or  crest,  which  rises 
gradually  towards  the  E.  out  of  the  plain  of  the  Llobregat  (p.  197) 
and  presents  a  precipitous  front  towards  the  sea.  Its  name  is  probably 


SarriA.  BARCELONA.  16.  Route.   2\\ 

due  to  the  fact  ih&t  it  was  once  partly  inhabited  by  the  Jews,  whose 
cemetery  lay  at  its  base.  Magnificent  palms  grow  at  the  foot  of  the 
hill,  and  its  fields  are  separated  by  hedges  of  aloes.  An  easy  road 
leads  from  the  S.  part  of  the  city  to  (20  min.)  the  top,  passing  the 
Cafi-Bestawrani  Mvramar  (PI.  I;  E,  10).  The  *  View  it  affords  is 
very  extensive.  The  Montseny  is  particularly  prominent,  and  some 
pe«jLs  of  the  Pyrenees  are  also  visible,  but  the  Montserrat  is  not  seen. 
The  E.  end  of  the  Montjuich  is  occupied  by  the  Castillo  de  Montjuich, 
a  strong  fortress,  with  large  magazines  and  accommodation  for 
10,000  men.  Visitors  are  admitted  on  the  afternoon  of  Maundy 
Thorsday,  on  the  morning  of  Good  Friday,  and  on  Dec.  8th ;  on 
other  days  a  special  order  is  required.  The  view,  however,  is  almost 
as  good  outside  the  walls.  The  Montjuich  was  captured  by  Lord  Peter- 
borough in  1705  by  a  brilliant  coup  de  mcun. 

On  tbe  S.W.  slope  of  the  Montjuich  lies  the  aftractive  Cemmtirio  del 
OtsU  (PI.  I-,  A,  10). 

e.  The  North- Western  Suburbs. 

Visitors  who  wish  to  see  the  extent  of  Barcelona's  expansion 
should  go  by  steam-tramway  (see  p.  195)  via  Gracia  to  the  subnrb 
of  San  Gervasio  de  Casollas  (to  the  'Plaza  de  Bonanova'  30  or  ^5  c). 
Here  lies  the  Iglesia  de  la  Bonanova  (PL  I;  F,  1),  which  is  worth  a 
visit  for  the  huge  number  of  votive  offerings  kept  in  two  of  its  chapels 
(entr.  to  the  left  of  the  high-altar).  A  walk  of  about  1/4  hr.  towards 
the  W.  brings  us,  passing  several  pleasant  country-houses  and  the 
restaurant  Parque  de  la  Montana,  to  — 

Sarri^  another  important  suburb  of  Barcelona,  connected  with 
the  Plaza  de  Oataluna  by  the  railway  mentioned  at  p.  201  (about  45 
trains  daily ;  fares  60,  37,  25  c). 

OMVIBU8B8,  starting  on  the  arrival  of  the  trains,  ply  from  the  railway 
station  of  Sarrii  to  the  W.  to  (IV2  M.)  the  Real  Monatterio  de  Fedralbes,  a 
Franciscan  nunnery  (now  suppressed),  founded  in  1327  and  possessing  a 
good  Gothic  church.  Other  omnibuses  run  to  theN.  to  the  high-lying  village 
of  Valividrera  (Hdtel  de  Buenos  Aires;  Hot.  Panorama),  whence  the 
summit  of  the  Tibidftbo  (1745  ft. ;  p.  197)  may  be  easily  reached.  At  the 
top  is  a  view-temple,  erected  in  1888.  —  Another  interesting  expedition 
may  be  made  from  Sarrii  to  the  prominently  situated  Ermiia  de  San  Pedro 
Mdrtir  (views). 


17.  Prom  Barcelona  to  Lirida  (Saragossa^  Madrid), 

114  M.  Railway  in  5V2-6Y4  hrs.  (fares  21  p.  5,  15  p.  80,  11  p.  60  c). 
There  are  two  through-trains  daily  (one  only  to  Saragossa),  and  there  are 
two  (in  the  height  of  summer  five)  local  trains  between  Barcelona  and 
Manresa.  —  Deipacho  Central  at  Barcelona,  see  p.  194^  information  may  be 
obtained  here  as  to  the  connection  of  the  diligences.  The  trains  start  from 
the  Eafacidn  del  Norte  (p.  194).  —  There  are  railway-restaurants  at  Barce- 
lona^ M(mre$a^  and  LiHda. 

This  journey  offers  many  attractions,  especially  near  Montserrat.  The 
beat  views  are  generally  to  the  left,  but  near  Manresa  to  the  right. 

Barcelona^  see  p.  194.  —  As  far  as  (7  M.)  Moncada  (".  102) 


212   Route  1 7 .  S AB ADELL .  From  Barcelona 

the  line  runs  parallel  with  that  to  Gerona.   It  crosses  the  Eitra  de 
San  Cugat  and  the  beaatiful  plain  of  Sardauola. 

9^2  ^*  Sardanola,  the  station  for  the  village  of  that  name  and 
for  BipolUtf  the  centre  of  a  hemp-growing  district.  The  Montserrat, 
with  the  deep  Indentation  of  the  Valle  Malo  (p.  ^19),  becomes  visibie, 
and  also  the  Montseny  (p.  190).  To  the  right  lies  the  church  of 
San  Pedro  de  Rhueeh.    Numerous  factories  are  passed. 

1472  M.  Sabadell,  an  industrial  town  with  19,200  inhab.,  fully 
half  of  whom  are  employed  in  its  80  cloth-factories  and  20  cotton 
mills.  The  annual  value  of  its  manufactures  is  about  13,000,000  p. 
(520,000^.).  —  To  the  left,  as  we  proceed,  lies  the  village  of  Creu 
Alia;  to  the  right  is  the  Montana  de  San  LorenxOy  with  its  numerous 
caverns.  Farther  on,  to  the  left,  is  the  Valle  del  Paraiao,  with  the 
ruined  castle  of  Egara  and  the  village  of  San  Pedro  de  Tarrcua. 

20 V2  M.  Tarrasa,  with  12,500  inhab.  and  several  cloth- factories. 
Between  the  station  and  the  town  are  the  Romanesque  churches  of 
San  Pedro  and  SanMiguel^  and  a  BapUitery  with  some  Roman  columns. 

Farther  on  the  railway  traverses  a  series  of  irregular  hills  and 
valleys,  which  have  necessitated  the  construction  of  numerous  costly 
cuttings,  tunnels,  and  bridges.  Just  beyond  Tarrasa  we  cross  the 
Qaya  and  the  Uort  by  viaducts  70-80  ft.  in  height.  —  From (25  V2M.) 
Olesa,  at  the  foot  of  the  Montana  de  Caaa  Llimona,  a  diligence 
runs  in  the  season  (July  15th-Sept.  15th)  to  (3  M.)  the  warm  sul- 
phur-baths (86°  Fahr.)  of  La  Puda,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Llobregat. 

The  train  crosses  the  valley  of  the  BuxadeU  by  a  fine  viaduct  of 
18  arches  (310yds.  long)  and  then  penetrates  the  spurs  of  the  moun- 
tains to  the  ri^ht  by  a  series  of  tunnels  and  cuttings.  To  the  left, 
high  above  the  deep  valley  of  the  Llobregat,  rises  the  grand  mass 
of  the  ♦Montserrat,  the  monastery  on  which  is  distinctly  visible. 

31 Y2  M.  MonlBtrol  (630  ft.),  the  starting-point  of  the  mountain 
railway  to  the  top  of  the  Montserrat  (see  p.  219).  From  the  railway 
we  can  make  out  the  Cueva  de  la  Virgen  (p.  226)  and  the  chapels  of 
San  Miguel  (p.  225)  and  Santa  Cecilia  (p.  224);  the  only  visible 
part  of  the  monastery  itself  is  the  chapel  of  San  Acisclo. 

We  traverse  more  tunnels  and  cuttings.  351/2  M.  San  Vicente 
de  Castellet.  The  train  crosses  the  Llobregat  and  ascends  along  its 
tributary  the  Cardoner  (p,  213).  Fine  retrospect  of  the  Montserrjit, 
especially  of  the  highest  peak  of  San  Jer6nimo  (p.  226). 

4OV2  M.  Mimreia  (672  ft. ;  Fonda  de  Santo  Domingo,  in  the 
plaza  of  that  name;  Bail.  Restaurant^  the  Roman  Munorisa,  the 
capital  of  the  Jaeetani^  is  an  ancient  and  interesting  town  with 
20,600  inhab. ,  finely  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Cardoner.  The 
river  is  spanned  by  a  modem  iron  bridge  and  by  a  narrow  and 
high-backed  stone  bridge  of  the  Roman  period. 

From  the  station  we  cross  the  stone  bridge  and  then  ascend  to 
the  right  to  the  high-lying  Gothic  *colegiata*  of  — 


to  Unda.  MANRKSA.  17.  RouU.   2\^ 

Santa  Maria  db  la  Sbo,  beguTi  on  the  site  of  an  earlier  struc- 
ture in  1328  and  finished  nearly  a  century  later.  Its  plan  resembles 
that  of  the  Barcelona  churches,  consisting  of  nave  and  aisles  with 
choir  and  ambulatory,  but  no  transepts.  Over  the  left  aisle  rises  a 
fine  tower,  completed  in  1672-90.    The  W.  facade  is  modern. 

The  laTKXioB,  borne  by  16  octagonal  pierf ,  if  remarkable  for  the 
width  of  the  nave  (58  ft.),  which  ia  greater  than  that  of  any  other  aisled 
church  on  the  Spanish  mainland.  The  huge  buttreeaes,  formed  partly 
without  and  partly  within  the  church,  enclose  8  jnare  side-chapelf  off  the 
aijles  and  ambulatory.  The  flneat  of  the  ftained-glass  windows  is  the 
rose-window  at  the  W.  end,  representing  the  Virgin  in  a  glory.  The  Coro, 
in  the  middle  of  the  nave,  is  surrounded  by  a  stone  screen  of  the  16th 
cent.,  on  the  ontside  of  which  are  Gothic  niches  containing  painted  figures 
of  apostles  and  aiints.  The  stalls  ahow  Benaisaance  forma  The  third  and 
fourth  piers  on  the  left,  being  thoae  that  aupport  the  tower,  are  more 
massive  than  the  reat.  Below  the  organ,  to  the  8.,  ia  the  a  ivage-looking 
head  of  a  Voor  (comp.  p.  304);  adjacent,  on  a  gold  ground,  are  acenes 
from  the  lifis  of  the  Virion.  The  Bigh  Altar  is  adorned  with  wood-carv- 
ings and  richly  gilt^  the  aix  octagonal  colnmna  round  it  were  doubtleaa 
intended  for  hanging  np  tapestries  and  curtaina.  In  the  ambulatory  ia  a 
wheel  of  bella  in  ita  old  case.  The  steps  in  front  of  the  altar  descend  to 
tiike  Crvp^'  —  The  SaeriMty  contains  an  embroidered  and  painted  altar 
frontal,  10  ft.  long,  a  charming  piece  of  Florentine  work  of  the  I6tb  century. 

On  the  N.  the  Colegiata  is  adjoined  by  modern  cloisters,  entered 
by  a  Romanesque  gate  beside  the  N.  side-portal  of  the  church.  — 
The  acacia-shaded  plaza  to  the  S.  and  E.  of  the  church  affords  fine 
views  of  the  Car.loner,  the  Montserrat,  and  the  vineyarils  to  the  S. 
(Among  the  last,  Vj^  M.  from  the  station,  rises  the  Torre  de  Santa 
Catalina,  an  excellent  point  of  view.) 

Proceeding  to  the  £.  from  the  Colegiata,  we  cross  the  Torrento 
de  San  Jgndtio  and  reach  (3  min.)  the  Cueya  Santa,  or  grotto  of 
St.  Ignatius,  above  which  has  been  built  the  church  of  San  Ignazio^ 
with  its  pleasing  S.  facade.  Loyola  (p.  13),  after  his  sojourn  on 
the  Montserrat  (p.  224),  spent  some  months  in  penitential  exercises 
in  the  Dominican  convent  of  Manresa,  and  is  said  to  have  written 
his  'Exercitia  Spiritualia'  in  this  cavern.  Good  view  of  the  Colegiata. 

We  now  return  to  the  Colegiata  and  proceed  to  the  N.  to  the 
Plaza  Mayor,  with  the  Igleda  del  Carmen,  dating  from  about  the 
same  period  as  the  Colegiata.  We  then  go  to  the  W.  to  the  plaza 
and  church  of  Santo  Domingo  (V*^-  from  the  Cueva).  In  the  in- 
terior of  this  church,  to  the  right  and  left  of  the  capilla  mayor,  are 
the  busts  of  two  popes  (?).  Immediately  to  the  right  of  the  entrance 
is  the  Capilla  de  la  Virgen  del  Rosario. 

From  Hanresa  to  Cardona,  24  H.,  diligence  in  5  bra.,  once  daily  in 
winter,  twice  in  summer  (office  at  Manresa  in  the  Plaza  de  Santo  Domingo). 
The  road  follows  the  courae  of  the  Cardaner^  descending  from  the  Sierra 
del  Cadi,  and  akirts  the  base  of  the  Costa  de  la  Vela.  The  motintaina  on 
the  other  side  of  the  atream  belong  to  the  Sierra  de  Prades.  A  little  more 
than  halfway  we  pass  (13  H.)  the  village  of  Suria. 

Oardaaa  (Posada^  fair),  an  old  town  with  2400  inhah.,  in  a  lofty  site 
almoat  encircled  by  t:ieCardoner  and  dominated  on  the  N.E.  by  a  fortified 
hill  rising  1470  ft,  above  the  level  of  the  aea.  The  pariah-church  dates 
from  the  14th  cent.,  and  the  walls  and  towers  of  the  fortiflcationfl  are 
aufliciently  picturesque.     The  main  object  of  interest,   however,  ia   the 


214    Route  17.  BELLPUIG.  From  Barcelona 

*MontaSa  db  Sal,  a  veritable  mountain  of  salt,  266  ft.  bigh  and  3  M.  in 
circumference,  which  rif  es  about  >/«  K.  to  the  8.  of  the  town,  between  the 
river  and  the  castle,  and  now  belongs  to  the  Duke  of  Medinaceli.  This 
curious  phenomenon  is  mentioned  by  Strabo  (in.  219).  The  rock-salt  is 
perfectly  pure,  and  the  hill  is  worked  like  a  mine.  Visitors  require  a 
permit  from  the  manager.  The  columns  of- salt  sparkle  brillianlly  when 
the  sun  shines  on  them.  Some  of  the  shafts  are  very  deep,  such  as  the 
Furad  Mico  ('squirrers  hole**),  which  is  said  to  be  a  mile  long.  Objects  of 
various  kinds  made  of  the  salt  are  offered  for  sale,  some  of  a  strangely- 
coloured  variety  known  as  *arlequino\  —  Near  the  salt-hill  the  Cardoner 
is  very  briny,  especially  after  rain,  and  its  waters  retain  a  brackish  taste 
for  a  distance  of  about  10  M. 

From  Cardona  to  SoUona  and  Urgel^  see  p.  217. 

Leaving  Manresa,  the  train  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Eajadell.  ^- 
48  M.  Rajadellj  prettily  situated  to  the  left.  Near  at  hand  are  the 
villages  of  Monistrol  de  Rajadellj  Aguilar,  and  CasteUar,  We  ascend 
steeply  along  the  Sierra  de  Calaf,  threading  six  tunnels.  62  M.  C<Uaf, 
—  691/2  M.  San  Quim  (2420  ft.),  the  first  place  in  the  province  of 
L€rida  and  the  highest  point  of  the  railway,  lies  on  the  watershed 
between  the  Llobregat  and  the  Segre  (p.  .183),  which  flows  to  the 
S.W.  to  the  Ebro.  A  diligence  runs  hence  to  Igualada.  The  Mont- 
serrat  now  disappears  from  the  view. 

The  line  now  descends.  To  the  right  are  the  ruined  Moorish 
castle  of  Santa  Fe  and  the  high-lying  walled  village  of  Monfalco 
Murallat,  Farther  on  is  the  convent  of  San  Ramdn,  Distant  view 
of  the  Pyrenees. 

78  M.  Cerveraj  a  town  of  3900  inhab.,  on  a  small  stream  of  the 
same  name,  contains  the  deserted  buildings  of  a  university,  which 
Philip  V.  established  here  in  1717  as  a  reward  for  the  town's  loyalty 
(comp.  p.  202).  —  The  train  follows  the  Cervera,  which  traverses 
the  well-irrigated  Llano  de  Urgel  and  joins  the  Segre  at  L^rida.  To 
the  left  we  see  Qranena  and  (farther  on)  Granenina.  —  From  (87  M.) 
Tdrrega  a  diligence  runs  to  the  N.  to  Agramunt  and  (26  M.)  Artesa 
de  Segre  (p.  217).  —  To  the  N.  we  see  the  village  of  Anglesola.  To 
the  S.  lies  VerdU,  visited  for  its  mule-fair,  beginning  on  April  26th 
and  lasting  a  week.    At  Vilagrasa  we  cross  the  Canal  de  TJrgel, 

94  M.  Bellpuig  {j^osada  de  laEstaddn,  quite  unpretending, 
luncheon  3  p.),  a  small  place  commanded  by  the  old  Castle  of  the 
Anglesolas.  From  the  station  the  road  leads  to  the  S.  to  (i/2  M.)  the 
Chubch  of  Bellpuig,  the  key  of  which  is  kept  by  Pedro  Vidal,  in 
an  adjoining  house.  This  contains  the  magnificent  *  Monument  of 
Don  Ramon  de  Cardona,  Viceroy  of  Naples  (d.  1522),  erected  by 
his  widow  Isabella  in  the  convent-church  (p.  215)  and  transferred 
to  its  present  position  in  1824.  It  is  a  masterpiece  of  the  Nea- 
politan sculptor  Giovanni  da  Nola,  executed  in  the  usual  style  of 
the  Italian  tombs  of  the  Renaissance.  The  effigy  of  the  deceased 
lies  on  a  sarcophagus  in  a  deep  recess;  and  the  details  of  the  orna- 
mentation include  mythological  figures,  genii,  birds,  fruit,  and 
arabesques,  as  well  as  a  relief  of  a  victory  over  the  Moors.  —  About 
Vg  M.  to  the  S.  lies  the  suppressed  Fhanciscan  Convent,  founded 


toUrida.  LPmWX.  17.  Route.    215 

by  the  Gonnts  of  Urgcl  (l^th  cent.  ?),  with  a  Gothic  church  of  the 
15th  century.  The  key  is  kept  by  the  'Hoitelano'  Casas,  near  the 
above-mentioned  parish-church. 

The  Sacbmtt  of  the  coavent-chiirch  containf  a  late-Oothlc  ciboriam.  — 
An  ingenious  spiral  staircase  aacends  to  the  *  Cloistebs,  which  are  in  three 
Ftoriea.  The  lowermost  has  four  Gothic  arches  on  each  side,  the  tracery 
of  which  Is  carried  up  into  the  galleries  above.  The  arches  of  the  central 
gallerjr  are  borne  by  fluted  columns,  with  riehly  seulptured  capitals  and 
other  ornamentation.  The  uppermost  gallery  forms  a  kind  of  attic,  sup- 
ported on  each  side  by  eleven  Doric  columns.  —  The  Tkbbacb  of  the 
convent  affords  a  fine  view  of  Bellpuig. 

The  district  traversed  by  the  railway  now  assumes  the  bleak 
character  of  the  Aragonese  steppes.  —  99  M.  MoUerwa;  105V2  M. 
BtU-LLoeh,  A  few  trees  again  appear  in  the  landscape.  Farther  on 
are  pretty  gardens,  heralding  the  valley  of  the  Segre  and  the  town 
of  L^rida,  which  is  seen  in  the  distance.  The  train  crosses  the  Segre 
by  an  iron  girder-bridge,  with  five  openings,  each  130  ft.  in  span 
and  33  ft.  above  the  river. 

114  M.  Lirida  (495  ft. ;  *F(mda  8ui%a^  pens.  7  p.,  unpretending  j 
Fonda  de  Etpafia;  Rail.  Restaurant),  the  Ilerda  of  the  Romans,  is 
the  capital  of  a  province  and  lies  on  a  hill  rising  over  the  Segre. 
Pop.  23,600.  It  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  towns  in  Spain,  and  its 
Geltiberian  origin  is  indicated  by  its  name  (il  or  hil  =  castle;  ard 
or  erd  =  height).  Its  strategic  importance,  at  the  entrance  to  the 
plain  of  Aragon  and  near  the  mouth  of  the  E.  Pyrenean  valleys  and 
several  passes  across  the  Catalonian  coast-range,  led  to  its  fortifica- 
tion at  an  early  date;  and  it  still  ranks  as  a  strong  fortress,  with  its 
forts  Oardeny  (the  old  town  proper),  El  Pilaff  and  San  Fernando. 

In  B.C.  49  the  town  was  captured  by  Csrsar,  who  here  defeated  Pom- 
pey^s  legates,  Afranirs  and  Petreius.  It  is  mentioned  by  Horace  (Ep.  I. 
zx.  13).  In  the  Visigothic  period  a  council  was  held  here  (546).  Lerida 
wa«  taken  by  the  Moors  in  713,  by  St.  Lonis  in  799,  and  by  the  Spanish 
Christians  in  1117.  In  1149  Ramon  Berengner  IV.  (p.  186)  made  it  his 
royal  residence  and  the  seat  of  the  Bishop  of  Boda  and  Barbastro.  The 
university,  founded  here  by  James  11.  in  1300,  was  transferred,  like  that 
of  Barcelona  (p.  20Q),  to  Cervera  (p.  214)  in  1717.  L^rida  was  taken  by 
the  French  in  1642,  unsuccessfully  besieged  by  them  in  1646  and  1647,  but 
again  taken  in  the  War  of  the  Spanish  Succession  (1707)  and  in  the  Penin- 
sular War  (1810).  —  It  was  on  the  Segre,  near  L^rida,  that,  according  to 
tradition,  the  daughter  of  Herodias  met  her  appropr'ate  retribution  by 
falling  through  the  ice,  which  closed  in  upon  her  and  cut  off  her  head. 

The  city,  which  consists  mainly  of  one  long  winding  street 
running  parallel  with  the  river,  is  thoroughly  mediaeval  in  its  ap- 
pearance. About  the  middle  the  street  expands  into  a  plaza,  on  one 
side  of  which  stands  the  new  church  of  San  Juan,  occupying  the 
site  of  the  like-named  late-Romanesque  church  of  the  13th  century. 
Not  far  off  is  an  interesting  Romanesque  house,  with  beautiful 
*ajimez'  windows  of  three  lights ;  the  lower  story  was  restored  in 
the  Renaissance  style  in  1689. 

To  the  left  is  a  stone  Bridge,  built  upon  Roman  foundations  and 
leading  to  the  promenades  on  the  other  side  of  the  Segre.  Farther 
•on  in  the  main  street  is  the  New  Cathedral,  built  in  1769.    It  is 


216    Route  17.  LfeRIDA. 

preceded  by  a  Corinthian  portico  and  contains  handsome  choir-stalls 
and  numerous  sculptures.  In  the  sacristy  are  some  embroidered 
Testments  and  the  swaddling  clothes  of  the  Infant  Jesus. 

On  the  highest  point  of  the  town,  close  to  the  walls  of  the  for- 
tress, stands  the  *Old  Cathbdbal,  a  highly  interesting  building 
in  the  late-Romanesque  Transition  style,  with  Gothic  additions.  (It 
has  been  used  for  military  purposes  since  1717,  and  cannot  be 
entered  without  the  special  permission  of  the  *gobernador'.)  Mr.  Street 
describes  this  remarkable  building  as  ha-ving  *both  extreme  novelty 
in  the  general  scheme,  and  extreme  merit  in  all  the  detail'.  In 
plan  it  consists  of  a  short  nave  and  aisles  (measuring  about  100  ft. 
in  each  direction) ,  a  strongly  marked  transept  (166  ft.  long  and 
42  ft.  wide),  and  a  main  apse  with  a  smaller  one  on  each  side  of 
it.  Over  the  crossing  is  an  octagonal  tower,  surmounted  by  a  cupola 
and  adjoined  by  a  slender  turret  containing  the  staircase.  A  smaller 
tower  rises  over  the  S.  transept.  The  W.  end  of  the  church  is  pre- 
ceded in  singular  fashion  by  large  cloisters,  the  inner  court  of  which 
is  92  ft.  square ,  while  each  of  the  walks  is  28  ft.  wide.  At  the 
S.W.  external  angle  of  these  cloisters  rises  a  lofty  octagonal  cam- 
panile, set  askew  to  the  building.  The  foundation-stone  of  the 
present  edifice  was  laid  by  Pedro  II.  of  Aragon  on  July  22nd,  1203, 
on  the  site  of  some  still  earlier  buildings ;  and  the  church  was  con- 
secrated in  1278.  To  the  architect  Pedro  de  Penafreyta  (d.  1286) 
are  probably  to  be  ascribed  the  central  tower  and  the  cloisters,  the 
windows  and  arches  of  which  are,  in  contradistinction  to  the  round- 
headed  openings  of  the  older  parts  of  the  structure,  in  the  pointed 
or  Gothic  style.  The  building  of  the  cloisters,  however,  went  on 
during  the  whole  of  the  14th  century.  To  the  same  period  may  be 
ascribed  the  chapels  on  the  S.  side  of  the  church,  while  the  com- 
pletion of  the  campanile  probably  fell  in  the  beginning  of  the 
16th  century.  (The  ascent  of  this  tower  is  recommended,  espe- 
cially for  the  excellent  bird's-eye  view  it  affords  of  the  cathedral 
buildings  as  a  whole.)  The  W.  entrance  to  the  cloisters  seems  to 
date  from  the  close  of  the  14th  century.  The  cloisters  are  now  used 
as  barracks,  and  their  arches  have  been  built  up.  The  magnificent 
and  richly  decorated  Puerta  dels  Fillols^  or  S.  door  of  the  church,  is 
also  practically  inaccessible,  as  its  porch  is  used  as  a  storehouse 
for  ammunition.  There  are  other  entrances  in  the  N.  and  S.  tran- 
septs. The  effect  of  the  interior  of  the  church  has  been  entirely 
spoiled  by  its  division  into  two  stpries  through  the  construction  of 
a  floor  about  halfway  up  the  columns.  The  beautiful  capitals  of  the 
latter  should,  however,  be  studied  on  the  upper  floor. 

To  the  N.  lies  the  church  of  San  Lorenzo  (1270-1300),  possess- 
ing an  octagonal  tower  of  the  16th  cent.,  a  fine  high-altar  of  the 
14th  cent.,  and  beautiful  Gothic  windows.  The  nave  is  said  to 
have  originally  been  a  Roman  temple,  which  the  Moors  converted 
into  a  mosque  and  Ramon  Berenguer  XV.  into  a  Christian  church. 


ANDORRA.  n.Rouif.   217 

In  the  Plazuela  de  la  Pescaderfa  is  the  so-called  Peu  del  Romeu^ 
where  St  James  of  Compostela  one  night  ran  a  thorn  into  his  foot 
and  was  aided  by  angels  with  lights.  The  young  men  and  maidens 
still  celebrate  his  festival  here.  —  Some  Celtic  graves  and  Celtic 
coins  have  recently  been  discovered  near  the  PUtrta  de  Boleros, 

From  Ltfrida  to  Saragoasa,  sec  R.  13;  to  Moniblanch  (Poblet)  and 
Tarragona^  see  B.  22. 

From  L^da  a  diligence  ascends  the  valley  of  the  8egre  to  BcUagttery 
and  generally  goes  on  also  to  Arteta  de  Segre.  From  Aitesa  a  road  leads 
via  /VfM,  TVwrona,  and  CasUUnov  de  Basella  to  Oliana  (see  below).  At  Basella 
diverges  a  road  to  Sol§ona  (see  below). 

SzennioB  among  the  Eaitem  Pyreneet  (Urgel,  Andorra). 

A  visit  to  the  Eastern  Pyrenees  from  Spain  is  attended  by  much  greater 
difQcolties  and  inconveniences  than  from  the  French  side,  where  the 
ample  means  of  communication  and  the  comfortable  inns  do  much  to 
smooth  the  tourist's  path  (comp.  Baedeker's  South- Weetem  France).  —  On 
the  Spanish  side  it  is  necessary  to  take  not  only  a  guide  but  provisions  \ 
and  the  accommodation  is  always  of  the  most  primitive  cast . 

Cardona^  see  p.  218  A  fair  road  leads  hence  to  (10V2  M.)  Sohona,  the 
Seteliz  of  the  Romans,  situated  on  a  lofty  rock  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Rio  Kegre.  In  the  church  is  the  Capilla  de  la  Virgen  del  Claustro,  a  great 
resort  of  pilgrims.  —  Farther  on  we  cross  the  Eiera  Salada  and  descend 
to  Caetellnou  de  Batella  (see  above),  in  tbe  valley  of  the  Segre.  Tbence 
we  ascend  the  valley  to  (LOVs  M.)  Oliana,  the  church  of  which  has  a  fine 
portal  with  two  monolithic  Doric  columns. 

From  Oliana  a  bridle-path  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Segre,  which  breaks 
through  the  mountains  by  the  imposing  Pa$o  de  Tret  PonU.  —  13Vs  M.  Or- 
gcAa^  in  an  expansion  of  the  valley.  Farther  on  we  proceed  through  wild 
gorges,  cross  the  Fuente  del  Diablo^  and  reah  the  mouth  of  the  VcUira, 
which  descends  from  the  Val  Andorra.  We  here  enter  a  more  open  part  of 
the  valley,  7  M.  long  and  3  H.  broad,  in  the  midst  of  which  lies — 

Seo  de  tJrgel,  a  town  of  2800  inhab  ,  which  has  been  the  see  of  a 
bii^hop  since  840  and  possesses  a  Gothic  cathedral.  It  is  also  a  strong 
fortress,  with  the  fort.:  of  CiiuUidela,  Ccutillo^  and  Torre  de  SoUona^  and 
played  a  prominent  part  in  the  last  Carliat  war  (1874-75).  —  [Urgel  is  about 
27  H.  from  Puigcerda,  the  way  to  which  a<)cends  through  the  ravines  of  the 
Segre  valley  to  the  district  of  CerdaUa.  About  halfway  liei  Bellter^  with 
an  ancient  castle.  Farther  on  are  several  villages.  Puigcerda  (4076  ft.; 
Hdt.  EuropOj  plain),  a  strongly  fortified  Spaiiph  frontier-town  (2100  inhab.), 
lies  at  the  point  where  the  Raur  and  Arc^d  flow  into  the  Segre.  Better 
quarters  are  obtained  IV2  M.  farther  on,  at  the  small  French  town  of 
Bourg-liadame.] 

The  route  from  Seo  de  Urgel  to  Andorra  (a  ride  of  4  hr.^.)  at  first  tra- 
ver.?es  a  fertile  district  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Valira.  At  (40  min.)  An- 
aerall  we  cro.-'S  to  the  left  bank  and  then  proceed  through  a  ravine  to 
(i^fi  hr.)  the  Spanish  Frontier  Station.  We  enter  the  Republic  of  Andorra, 
ford  a  mountain -torrent  named  the  AuvlKa^  cross  a  wooden  bridge,  and 
reach  (40  min.)  Sem^a  Julia.,  the  flr^t  village  in  Andorra  and  one  of  the. 
chief  seats  of  the  smuggling  that  hai  prevailed  on  this  frontier  from  time 
immemorial.  —  The  route  follows  the  rlpht  bank  of  the  Valira,  passing 
Aixobal  and  (60  min.)  Santa  Coloma^  to  (Vs  hr.)  — 

Andorra (3510 ft.;  CalouneeU  /»m, indifferent),  a  small  town  withSOOinhab., 
the  capital  of  the  republic,  prettily  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Monte  Andar. 
The  old  Romanesque  Church  contains  some  good  wood -carving.  The  Pa- 
lacio  or  Casa  del  Valient  in  which  the  council-general  meets  and  the  exe- 
cutive officers  live,  is  a  very  unpretentious  building.  Above  the  door  are 
the  arms  of  Andorra,  with  the  motto:  Domus  Condlii^  Sedes  Jtutidae.  On 
the  ground  floor  is  stabling  for  the  horses  of  the  members  of  the  council. 


218    Route  /7.  ANDO.IRA. 

The  council-chamber,  npstairs,  i3  surrounded  with  oaken  benches  and 
contains  an  image  of  the  Saviour.  The  Archive*  of  the  republic,  including 
charters  said  to  date  from  the  times  of  Charlemagne  and  Louis  the  Pious, 
are  kept  in  a  cupboard  in  this  room.  The  cupboard  is  secured  with  six 
locks,  the  keys  of  which  are  held  by  the  six  communea  (see  below)  into 
which  the  republic  is  divided.  There  is  thus  no  chance  for  a  stranger  to 
see  its  contents.  The  building  also  includes  bedchambers  for  the  deputies, 
a  school,  and  a  gaol.  —  Near  the  town  is  the  Moorish  castle  of  Carol,  the 
name  of  which  is  connected  with  Carolus  Magnus  (Charlemagne). 

The  Kepublic  of  Andorra,  an  Alpine  district  about  17  M.  square 
(6000  inhab.)i  in  which  oats  and  barley  are  the  only  crops,  consists  of  six 
Pyrenean  valleys,  wedged  in  between  the  French  department  of  Ariege  and 
the  Spanish  province  of  L^rida.  The  six  valleys  form  six  communes  or 
parishes  (parroqvias)  and  are  subdivided  into  24  Curarts  (quarters).  The 
latter  elect  the  Consejo  General,  consisting  of  four  councillors  from  each  com- 
mune, and  these  in  turn  choose  their  Syndic  (president).  The  election  of  the 
last  requires  confirmation  from  the  finarcial  director  at  Barcelona,  as  one  of 
his  functions  is  to  guarantee  the  genuineness  of  the  goods  exported  from 
Andorra  to  Spain.  —  The  Criminal  Jurisdiction  is  vested  in  a  so-called 
Viguier  (vicar),  appointed  by  the  Bishop  of  Urgel.  (There  is  a  second 
viguier,  appointed  by  France  and  with  his  seat  at  Prades^  but  he  is  a 
mere  figure-head.)  From  the  viguier  an  appeal  lies  to  the  Cortes  de  Jtuticia, 
compo  ed  of  the  two  viguiers  in  their  capacity  a"?  judges  of  appeal,  a  not- 
ary, a  constable,  and  two  Rohonadors  Crai^onneurs',  defenders).  The  Civil 
Judges  are  two  BaUes  (bailiffs),  selected  by  France  and  the  Bishop  of 
Urgel  from  a  list  of  ten  persons  submitted  by  the  council.  —  Andorra 
has  no  written  code,  but  merely  a  body  of  common  law,  hallowed  by  time 
and  handed  on  by  tradition.  There  is,  however,  a  Manual  Digeste,  a  private 
publication  of  Dr.  Antonio  Filer  in  1748;  but  only  three  copies  of  this 
exist,  one  in  the  archives  and  the  others  in  the  possession  of  the  Syndic 
and  the  Bishop  of  Urgel.  —  The  Armed  Force,  consisting  of  6(X)  men  (10  per 
cent  of  the  population),  is  under  the  command  of  the  viguier,  who  calls 
it  together  annually.  The  entire  male  population  capable  of  bearing  arms 
belongs  to  the  reserve  (somaten).  The  oflicials  receive  practically  no  sal- 
ary; that  of  the  councillors  is  12  pesetns  and  a  measure  of  barley  an- 
nually, while  the  members  of  the  government  draw  six  old  Catalonian 
pous  (about  92  c.)  daily  during  the  session.  —  There  are  no  taxes  in  An- 
dorra except  the  Quistia  or  annual  tribute  paid  to  France  (1920  p.)  and 
Spain  (842  p.)  in  recognition  of  their  suzerainty.  The  inhabitants  live  by 
cattle -rearing,  lumbering,  agriculture,  andiron-forging.  Many  of  the  chief 
necessaries  of  life  (salt,  wine,  fish,  etc.)  are  imported  from  Franc?  and  Spain. 
The  native  of  Andorra  is  possessed  of  a  more  than  8cotti.«h  caution ;  the 
Spanish  expression  'hacerse  el  Andorrano''  means  to  bear  oneself  with  pru- 
dence and  silence. 

18.  The  Montserrat. 

The  excursion  to  Montserrat  can  be  comfortably  made  from  Barcelona 
in  one  day  by  taking  an  early  train  and  using  the  mountain-railway  from 
Monistrol.  In  this  case,  however,  San  Jerdnimo  must  be  given  up.  Those 
who  have  two  days  at  their  disposal  will  make  either  the  ascent  or  descent 
(if  not  both)  on  foot  or  in  a  carriage,  visiting  the  convent  on  the  first  day 
and  San  Jerdnimo  on  the  second.  Those  who  wish  to  visit  Hanre3a(p.212) 
may  drive  thither  from  Monistrol  in  the  evenirg. 

The  Montserrat  (i.  e.  the  'serrated  mountain'),  the  Montsagrat  or 
'sacred  mountain'  of  the  Catalans,  and  the  Monsalwatsch  of  the 
German  middle  ages,  which  located  here  the  castle  of  the  Holy  Grail, 
Is  a  mighty  mountain-mass  rising  in  almost  complete  Isolation  from 
the  plateau  of  Catalonia.  Sharply  outlined  on  every  side,  and 
\i  versified  with  the  most  fantastic  rock  -  formations  —  the  Gistaus 


•Rgtojri6TidpMorusn_o  ^ 


fteo*r.  Anst-vAValner  fcDebes  .Leipzig . 


:    MONTSKRUAT.  18.  Routf.   219 

or  'stone  watchmen'  of  the  Arabs  —  the  mountain  from  a  distance 
looks  like  &  colossal  castle.  Mr.  Edmondo  de  Amicis  likens  its  jag- 
ged sky-line  to  'a  chain  of  slender  triangles,  or  a  royal  crown  drawn 
out  till  its  points  resemlile  the  teeth  of  a  saw,  or  so  many  sugar 
loaves  ranged  in  a  row'.  Mr.  Charles  Dudley  Warner  writes  that 
'another  mountain  so  airy ,  grotesque ,  and  flame- like  does  not 
exist/  The  geological  kernel  of  the  mountain  consists  of  the  red- 
dish clay-slate  characteristic  of  this  whole  district,  and  superimposed 
on  this  is  a  firm  calcareous  conglomerate  or  pudding-stone,  resembl- 
ing the  conglomerate  of  the  Rigi  and  often  water-worn  into  holes 
and  fissures.  The  main  axis  of  the  mass  runs  from  N.W.  to  S.E. ; 
its  circumference  is  about  15  M.  Its  enormous  precipices  make  the 
Bummit  seem  at  first  sight  inaccessible.  On  the  N.E.  side,  however, 
both  the  road  and  the  rack-and-pinion  railway  have  made  use  of 
the  projecting  terraces  to  climb  circuitously  to  the  convent,  which 
lies  about  two-thirds  of  the  way  up.  On  the  other  sides,  partic- 
ularly on  the  W, ,  the  summit  may  be  reached  by  clambering 
through  the  steep  and  profound  crevices  known  as  Canales,  A 
hnge  fissure,  called  the  Valle  MalOy  intersects  the  crest  from  N.W. 
to  E.  At  the  N.W.  end  of  it  rises  the  Tur6  de  San  Jer6nimo 
(4070  ft.),  the  loftiest  peak  of  the  Montserrat.  On  the  £.  side  the 
Valle  Male,  traversed  by  the  Torrente  de  Santa  Maria  ^  descends  in 
huge  tenaoed  steps  of  rock  to  the  Llobregat;  on  a  small  promontory 
of  rock  rising  over  one  of  these  terraces  is  the  famous  Monastery, 
The  Llobregat  flows  across  the  N.E.  side  of  the  mountain,  winds 
round  its  S.E.  base  to  Esparraguera,  breaks  through  the  coast-range 
at  Martorell,  and  finally  waters  the  Gampifia  of  Barcelona.  Its  deep 
valley,  with  the  village  of  Monistroly  is  the  chief  element  in  deter- 
mining the  picturesque  character  of  the  N.E.  side  of  the  mountain.  To 
the  S.W,  is  the  olive  and  vine  growing  plain  of  Esparraguera,  on  a 
gentle  eminence  in  which  lies  the  village  of  Collbatd.  On  the  S.E. 
the  mountain  is  quite  inaccessible.  Thus,  whether  seen  from  a 
distance  or  close  at  hand,  the  mountain  presents  two  main  facades, 
that  to  the  N.E.  and  that  to  the  S.W.  The  former  of  these,  showing 
the  ridge  crowned  by  the  fantastic  pinnacles  of  the  'rocky  sentinels', 
is  generally  considered  finer  than  the  quieter  and  more  idyllic  S.W. 
view.  The  N.E.  slope  of  the  mountain  is  covered  with  fine  pine 
woods,  its  flanks  and  its  summit  are  clad  with  evergreen  shrubs 
(monte  hajo  =  low  wood).  The  flora  of  Montserrat  is  highly  inter- 
estiag,  especially  in  spring. 

a.    Boute  vi&  Monistrol. 

Monf$trol  is  a  station  on  the  railway  from  Barcelona  to  Ldrida  (p.  212) 
and  is  reached  from  the  former  in  1V4-2V4  hrs.  (fares  5  p.  90,  4  p.  40, 
^  p.  25  c).  In  conDection  with  all  the  trains  a  Mountain  Railway  (toothed 
wheel  system)  ascends  to  the  convent  in  1  hr.  (fares  3  p.  95,  2  p.  50  c.  •, 
in  the  reverae  direction  2  p.  95,  1  p.  75  c.).  Return-tickets  Cida  y  vuelta^), 
available  for  fix  days  and  good  for  both  railways,  are  issued  in  Barcelona 


220    Route  18,  MONTSERRAT. 

at  ihe  Despacho  Central  (p.  194)  and  at  the  Estacidn  del  Norte  (fares  15  p., 
10  p.  15,  7  p.  50  c.). 

Cabbiagbb  (2  p.  per  seat)  also  meet  the  trains  at  Monistrol.  Tickets 
for  railway  and  carriage  may  also  be  obtained  in  Barcelona  (fares  7  p.  20, 
5  p.  50,  4  p.  10  c. ;  return-fares  10  p.  45,  8  p.  45,  5  p.  86  c). 

Walkbbs  should  use  the  mountain  -  railway  as  far  as  the  village  of 
Monistrol,  whence  they  can  reach  the  convent  in  2V2-3  hrs.  (down  l»/2- 
2  hrs.);  in  starting  from  Monistrol  station  1  hr.  more  must  be  allowed. 

The  railway-station  oi  Monistrol  (p.  212)  lies  on  a  height  on  the 
bank  of  the  Llobregat,  immediately  opposite  the  Montserrat.  It 
commands  a  beantiful  riew. 

The  Mountain  Railway  (best  views  to  the  left),  built  in  1892 
and  about  5  M.  in  length,  at  first  descends  from  the  station  (633  ft.), 
with  an  average  gradient  of  6  :  100,  into  the  valley  of  the  Llobregat, 
crossing  first  the  Riera  de  Mard  and  then  the  Llobregat  itself,  by  an 
iron  bridge  130  yds.  long  (443  ft.  above  the  sea).  The  line  ttien 
ascends  to  (21/2  M.)  Momstrol  Villa^  the  station  for  the  village 
(p.  221) ,  which  lies  a  little  to  the  S.  —  Beyond  this  the  rail- 
way ascends  rapidly  along  the  N.  side  of  the  Valle  de  Santa  Maria 
(p.  221),  ^th  a  maximum  gradient  of  15  :  100,  and  mounts  the  ter- 
races of  the  Montserrat  directly  to  the  S.W.  As  we  proceed,  we  obtain 
a  striking  view  of  the  rocky  pinnacles  (penascoa)  on  the  crest  of  the 
mountain.  Immediately  in  front  of  us  is  the  Turd  de  San  Jerdntmo,  at 
the  foot  of  which  nestles  the  Chapel  ofSt.  CcdKo(p.  224).  More  to  the 
left  are  the  Pctso  de  las  Aguilas^  the  Rocaa  de  las  Golondrinas  (p.  226 ; 
also  called  Roca  Aneha),  the  Roca  de  San  PatridOj  and  the  Roea  de 
las  Once  ('Eleven  O'clock  Rock') ,  which  serves  the  inhabitants  of 
Monistrol  as  a  sun-dial.  These  are  followed  by  the  Roea  de  San 
Antonio  J  the  Caball  Bemat,  and  the  Plana  la  Vella  (Vieja),  —  The 
line  now  crosses  the  head  of  the  valley  in  a  wide  sweep  to  the  left 
and  runs  to  the  S.E. ,  below  the  road  and  close  under  the  crest  of 
the  Montserrat.  To  the  left  we  have  a  fine  view  of  the  valley  of  the 
Llobregat  and  of  the  distant  snow-peaks  of  the  Pyrenees.  We  finally 
thread  a  tunnel  below  the  promontory  on  which  the  Chapel  of  the  Apos- 
tles (p.  221)  stands,  and  reach  (5  M.J  the  Monastery  of  Montserrat 
(2910  ft. ;  p.  223),  which  we  enter  by  the  gate  built  in  1555. 

The  ♦Caebiagb  Road  up  the  mountain,  constructed  by  the  rail- 
way-company in  1859,  is  also  of  surpassing  beauty.  Nearly  all 
the  way  it  affords  a  superb  view  of  the  fantastic  rocky  forms  of  the 
mountain,  among  which  the  giant -figure  of  the  Caball  Bernat  is 
conspicuous ;  while  its  higher  portion  looks  over  the  valley  of  the 
Llobregat  to  the  distant  Pyrenees.  Leaving  the  station,  the  road 
passes  (I74  M.)  La  Bauma,  a  workmen's  colony,  and  descends  to 
the  S.W.  into  the  valley  of  the  Llobregat,  where  many  factories  and 
mills  are  driven  by  power  derived  from  the  river.  In  the  river-bed  is 
a  sulphur-spring  ^manan^iai  sulfurosa),  and  near  the  high  old  bridge 
rises  the  Fuente  Grande,  which  drives  several  mills.  Not  far  from  this 
spot  is  the  Fuente  Mentirosa,  an  intermittent  spring ;  and  there  are 
several  others  of  the  same  kind  in  the  neighbourhood.  —  Just  beyond 


MONTSERRAT.  18.  Route.   221 

the  bridge  the  road  to  the  baths  of  La  Pnda  (p.  212)  and  to  Espar- 
ngnera  (see  below)  diverges  to  the  left  Onr  road  enters  the  Valle  de 
Santa  Marin,  at  the  month  of  which  and  at  the  base  of  the  Montser- 
rat  lies  the  (2^2  M.)  thiiying  village  of  Moniitrol  (Posada  del 
Llobregat,  fair),  snrronnded  by  vineyards  and  olive-groves.  A  little 
higher  up,  3  M.  from  the  railway-station ,  stands  the  Capilla  de  la 
TrMdad,  erected  as  a  memorial  of  the  Morocco  campaign  of  1860. 
The  footpath  mentioned  below  here  diverges  to  the  left.  —  From 
this,  the  lowest  terrace  of  the  mountain,  the  road  descends  into  the 
Valle  de  Santa  Maria  and  then  ascends  again  to  the  N.E.  at  an 
aeate  angle,  crosses  the  mountain  -  railway,  and  reaches  a  small  fir 
plantation,  near  which  is  the  farm  of  La  CaleHna  (view).  Thence 
the  road  ascends  the  terraces  of  the  mountain  in  numerous  curves 
and  zigzags,  until  it  is  joined  by  the  Manresa  road  (p.  212),  coming 
in  from  the  N.  Here  it  bends  sharply  to  the  S.  and  passes  the 
FuerUe  de  los  Monjes,  Farther  on  it  is  joined  by  the  road  from 
Igualada  (p.  229)  and  runs  to  the  S.E.  to  the  Capilla  de  los  Apdstoies, 
which  affords  a  splendid  view  of  the  abysses  of  the  Llobregat  valley, 
the  sea,  the  Gueva  de  la  Virgen  (p.  226),  the  Capilla  de  San  Miguel 
(p.  225),  and  the  huge  precipices  beneath  which  lies  the  monastery. 
In  the  war  with  Napoleon  the  Spaniards  planted  a  battery  on  this 
commanding  site.  —  The  road  finally  leads  to  the  S.W.,  between 
the  gorge  on  the  left  and  the  convent-buildings  high  up  on  the  right, 
passing  the  Fuenie  del  Milagro  ('Spring  of  the  Miracle'),  and  soon 
reaches  the  (8  M.)  monastery  (p.  223),  which  does  not  come  into 
view  till  the  very  end  of  our  trip. 

The  Footpath  (Atajo  al  MotuuteHo)  from  the  village  of  Honistrol  to 
the  convent  (IV4  hr.  ^  guide  advisable,  2^/n  p.)  commands  much  less  fine 
views  than  the  carriage-road,  to  wliich  its  only  superiority  is  that  of 
heing  about  >/z  hr.  shorter.  It  leads  to  the  S.E.  from  the  Capilla  de  la 
Trinidad  (see  above),  ascends  steeply  along  the  E.  side  of  the  mountain 
and  farther  up  joins  the  path  to  the  Cueva  de  la  Virgen  (p.  225),  which 
may  be  visited  before  going  on  to  the  convent. 

b.  Boute  yi&  CoUbat6. 

From  Barcelona  we  travel  by  the  inland  railway  to  Tarragona  as  far 
as  UartoreU  (p.  229  •,  l-l"/*  1».  '■>  fares  3  p.  85,  3  p.  25,  2  p.  35  c).  In  summer 
an  omnibus  Ctarkma*)  plies  daily  from  Martorell  to  (2  hrs.)  CoUbca6 
(IVa  p.);  in  winter,  however,  it  stops  at  Etparragwra  (1  p.),  whence  a 
private  carriage  must  be  hired  for  Collbat6  (about  5  fr.).  From  Collbatd 
bridle-paths  ascend  to  the  convent  (2  hrs.,  via  San  Jerdnimo  S^/s-i  hrs.). 
Tickets  are  issued  at  the  Detpacho  Central  (p.  194)  and  the  Sstacidn  de 
Franda  at  Barcelona  for  the  whole  trip,  including  the  railway,  the  drive 
to  Collbat6,  and  a  saddle-horse  thence  to  the  convent  by  the  direct  path 
(fares  7  p.  82,  7  p.  23,  5  p.  50  c). 

MartoreUj  see  p.  229.  —  The  route  to  the  Montserrat  follows 
the  Barcelona  and  Saragossa  highroad  as  far  as  Esparraguera.  The 
fertile  plain  is  covered  with  com-flelds,  olive-groves,  and  vineyards. 
Near  Abrera  is  a  gorge,  beyond  which  we  traverse  the  valley  of  the 
MoAjuemeUa^  fording  that  river  in  the  absence  of  a  bridge. 

6  M.  Esparraguera  (Posada  del  Montserrat),  with  a  fine  church 


222   Route  18.  MONTSERRAT. 

containing  a  beautifully  carved  organ.  A  road  leads  hence  to  La 
Puda  (p.  212)  and  Monistrol  (p.  212).  —  Our  route  also  quits  the 
highroad  and  ascends  gradually  to  — 

9V'2  ^*  Collbati  {* Fonda  Vacaritaa^  unpretending,  K.  and  board, 
including  luncheon  for  consumption  at  San  Jeronimo,  6  p. ;  inter- 
esting visitors'  book),  a  prettily  situated  village ,  owing  its  name 
to  the  old  castle  of  Oat6  (now  called  Torre  del  Moro),  It  affords 
a  fine  view  of  the  rocky  wall  of  the  Montserrat,  about  1300  ft.  in 
height.  A  white  spot  halfway  up  marks  the  entrance  of  the  Cuevas 
de  Saliire  (saltpetre  cave). 

A  visit  to  the  cave  (there  and  back  3  h».)  is  hardly  worth  the  troable. 
The  landlord  of  the  inn  at  Collbatd  provides  a  guide  (SVsp.),  torches 
[antoreha;  2^/i  p.  each^  one  enough  for2pers.)i  and Bengid  fire  (3  p.  each; 
not  indiapensable).  The  path  (up  */a^  down  Vs  hr.)  descends  through  the 
village ,  passes  a  spring,  and  then  ascends  rather  rapidly.  The  last  part 
of  it,  consisting  of  steps  of  stone  and  wood,  is  unpleasant  for  those  in- 
clined to  giddiness.  The  fatiguing  visitation  of  the  cave  takes  about  l*/4  hr. 
The  most  interesting  part  is  the  entrance  itself,  where  a  large  block  of 
rock  has  fallen  from  the  roof.  Fanciful  names  have  been  given  to  different 
parts  of  the  cavern,  sach  as  La  EtperamOy  El  Ccunarin,  El  Tocador  de  las 
Silfidet,  Pozo  del  Diablo,  Oruta  de  lot  Stalactites,  and  GrtUa  de  la  Dama 
Blanca.  The  temperature  gradually  rises  from  50°  Fahr.  at  the  entrance 
to  BS"  in  the  inner  recesses. 

DiBECT  Path  fb,om  Collbato  to  the  Convent,  2  hrs.  (guide, 
desirable,  for  the  day  3  p.  and  food,  with  horse  5  p.).  —  We  at  first 
follow  the  road  skirting  the  base  of  the  mountain  towards  the  N.W. 
After  20  min.  we  diverge  to  the  right  and  ascend  in  countless  wind- 
ings. After  40  min.  more  we  pass  the  Fuenle  Seca  (now  walled  in), 
a  spring  which  dried  up  when  the  Fuente  del  Milagro  (p.  221)  was 
formed.  In  8/4  hr.  we  reach  the  crest  of  the  ridge,  where  our  path 
is  joined  on  the  left  by  that  coming  from  the  Ermitas  and  San  Je- 
ronimo  (see  below).  We  then  pass  the  Gapilla  de  San  Miguel  (p.  22o) 
and  reach  the  convent  (p.  223)  in  20-26  min.  more. 

FkoM  C0LLBAT6   TO    THE    MONASTEET   VIA  SaN  Jeb6nIM0,    3V2" 

4  hrs.  (guide  necessary;  horse  and  *mozo'  provided  by  the  landlord 
at  Collbat6  for  6  p.,  including  food;  in  winter  luncheon  must  be 
taken  from  Collbato,  but  later  on  a  restaurant  is  opened  at  San  Je- 
ronimo).  The  bridle-path  is  somewhat  uncomfortable,  but  as  a 
whole  this  is  one  of  the  finest  trips  on  the  Montserrat.  —  We  follow 
the  above-mentioned  road,  pass  (20  min.)  the  beginning  of  the  direct 
path  (see  above),  and  in  10  min.  more,  near  the  Vina  Nova,  ascend 
to  the  right,  through  pine- woods.  To  the  right  are  the  Ariiga  Alta 
and  Artiga  Baja,  separated  by  the  Canal  de  las  Yedrcu  (Catalan 
Eurcui),  or  Gorge  of  the  Ivy.  To  the  left  is  the  Canal  del  PuerUe, 
with  its  huge  circus  of  rock.  We  now  ascend  the  Vueltaa  del  Pumte. 
To  the  right  towers  the  Castillo,  an  outlier  of  the  Sierra  de  las  Pa- 
parras.  The  flanks  of  the  mountain  are  clothed  with  evergreen 
shrubs.  Farther  up  we  reach  a  ridge,  where  we  have  the  Clot  de  la 
Sajolida  to  the  left,  and  the  Monte  de  San  Juan  or  the  Rocas  de  Santa 
Magdalena  la  Vieja  to  the  right.   In  front  rises  the  Albarda  Castellana 


MONTSKRRAT.  18.  Route,   223 

(p.  226).  In  IS/4  hr.  we  leach  the  crest,  where  we  obtain  a  fine  view 
of  the  YaUe  Male  (p.  219),  with  the  Caball  Bemat  and  the  Dedos, 
between  which  the  distant  Montseny  is  visible.  In  V4  ^^^  our  path 
joins  that  from  the  convent  and  ascends  to  the  left,  partly  in  shade, 
through  the  steep  gorge  of  the  VaUe  Malo.  In  20  min.  more  we 
reach  the  height  of  San  Jerdnimo  (p.  226).  The  descent  hence  to  the 
conveut  Ukes  1-1 V2  hr.  (see  pp.  226-224). 

e.  The  MouMtery  and  iti  Neighbourhood. 

Adjoining  the  Parador^  where  the  carriages  pull  up,  is  the  Pespacho 
de  Apo$aUo».  Here  we  must  at  once  register  our  names,  in  order  to  secure 
a  room,  of  which  there  are  about  sixty  in  all ,  some  with  a  kitchen  at- 
tached. No  charge  is  made  for  rooms,  but  it  is  usual  to  give  2Vv-5  p.  per 
Bight.  A  special  permlasion  is  necessary  for  a  stay  of  more  than  three 
days.    Candles  (25  c.  eachl  may  also  be  procured  in  the  Despacho. 

Heals  are  usually  taken  in  the  very  tolerable  Fonda  to  the  S.  of  the 
entrance  (almnerzo  or  comida  Vft-i  p.).  Poor  visitors  receive  food  gratis 
in  the  Despacho  de  Comestibles.    Adjoinin<;  the  Fonda  is  a  good  Cc^i. 

Guide  0  p.  per  day;  to  the  various  points  of  interest,  see  below  and 
tariff  posted  up  in  the  Despacho.  —  Saddle  Horses  (Catalgadwcts)  are  also 
supplied  at  fixed  prices. 

The  Monaiterio  del  Montserrat  (2910  ft),  one  of  the  oldest 
and  most  celebrated  convents  in  Spain,  was  founded,  according  to 
the  legend  of  the  miraculous  image  of  the  Virgin  (p.  224) ,  as  a 
imnnery  in  880 ;  but  it  seems  probable  that  there  was  a  Benedictine 
settlement  here  before  the  incursion  of  the  Moors  in  717.  In  976  it 
was  restored  to  the  Benedictine  Order  and  peopled  with  monks  from 
Ripoll  (p.  191).  In  1410  Pope  Benedict  XIII.  raised  it  to  the  dignity 
of  an  independent  abbey,  but  it  was  again  subordinated  to  the  Bishop 
of  Barcelona  in  1874.  It  formerly  possessed  immense  wealth,  but 
lost  nearly  all  its  movable  property  in  the  War  of  Independence 
(1808-14),  while  it  was  deprived  of  its  real  estate  in  18B5  on  the 
suppression  of  the  convent  in  consequence  of  the  Garlist  rising.  In 
the  first  of  these  categories  was  its  famous  library,  including  a  num- 
ber of  priceless  MSS.  At  present  there  are  about  a  score  of  monks. 
Their  chief  occupation  is  the  management  of  a  school  of  ecclesiastical 
music  (La  Escolanfa)^  the  members  of  which  generally  sing  the 
Salve  in  the  church  at  the  time  of  Ave  Maria  (La  Oraev6n).  The  an- 
nttal  number  of  visitors  and  pilgrims  to  the  convent  is  said  to  be 
about  60,000.   The  chief  festival  is  on  Sept.  8th. 

^The  buildings  at  the  entrance  give  on  a  large  court,  shaded  with 
plane-trees,  where  a  small  market  is  held  nearly  every  morning.  To 
the  left  is  the  Old  Monastery,  in  front  the  New  Monastery.  , 

The  Old  Monastesy  (Antiguo  Mcmasterio,  Cat.  Antich  Monastir) 
is  for  the  most  part  in  ruins.  The  main  points  of  interest  are  the 
Gothic  cloisters  of  1460,  the  unfinished  bell-tower  of  the  same  cent- 
ury, and  the  facade  of  the  old  church.  On  the  groundfloor  of  the 
Apotmtos  de  San  Pldcidolis  a  small  museum,  containing- old  capitals 
and  other  architectural  fragments,  relics  of  old  tombstones,  etc. 


224   Rmdt  18.  MONTSERRAT. 

The  New  Monastery  (Monasterio  Actual)  consists  of  an  impos' 
ing  Churchy  occupying  one  side  of  an  arcaded  court  called  the  F6Tiico 
Modemo,  and  of  the  secular  buildings  on  the  other  three  sides  of  the 
court.  The  latter  were  built  under  Ferdinand  VII.,  but  were  left 
unfinished  owing  to  the  troubles  of  1836.  The  church  was  built  in 
the  Renaissance  style  under  Philip  II.  (1660-92)  and  was  much  in- 
jured by  fire  in  1811.  In  1860  a  Romanesque  apse  was  added  to  it. 

iKTERioB.  The  aisleless  nave  is  225  ft.  long,  62  ft.  wide,  and  109  ft. 
high.  It  is  flaaked  on  each  side  with  six  chapeli,  each  23  tt.  deep.  Above 
the  first  four  chapels  are  galleries,  like  those  at  the  Escorial  •,  the  last  two, 
to  the  right  and  left,  are  enclosed  by  lofty  rejas.  Above  the  high- altar, 
surrounded  by  four  ever-burning  cmdles,  is  La  Santa  Imogen  (Cat  Santa 
Imaije)y  a  small  wooden  figure  of  the  Virgin,  blackened  by  age.  According 
to  the  legend,  it  was  made  by  St.  Luke  and  brought  to  Spain  by  St.  Peter ; 
for  its  rediscovery  in  880,  see  p.  225.  —  Ignatius  Loyola,  after  abandoning 
his  military  life  in  consequence  of  wounds  received  at  the  defence  of 
Pampeluna  in  1521,  hung  up  his  weapons  before  this  image  and  devoted 
himself  to  the  service  of  Christ  and  the  Virgin.  The  Santa  Imagen  is  shown 
only  at  10  a.m.  ('visitar  la  Virgen'),  usually  to  the  chanting  of  one  of  the 
priests.  —  The  Sacristy  contains  the  valuable  wardrobe  and  jewels  of  the 
holy  image.  —  Adjoining  the  sacristy  is  the  entrance  to  the  Crypt^  in  which 
the  monks  are  buried. 

A  door  in  the  N.W.  angle  of  the  Portico  Modemo  (to  the  right  as 
we  leave  the  church)  leads  to  a  passage  flanked  with  walls.  Ascend- 
ing to  the  right  at  the  end  of  this,  we  reach  *El  Mi&adob  db  los 
MoNJES,  or  convent-garden,  situated  on  a  terrace  below  the  pre- 
cipices of  the  mountain  and  commanding  splendid  views  of  the 
Llobregat  valley  and  the  Pyrenees.  The  garden  is,  unfortunately, 
seldom  open  to  visitors.  In  front,  on  a  promontory,  are  the  CapiUa  de 
San  Acisclo  and  the  Capilla  de  Santa  Victoria, 

From  the  Cap.  de  San  Acisclo  the *Cawmo  de  loaDegotalls,  a  level 
path  3/4M.  long,  runs  to  theN.W.,  skirting  the  base  of  the  cliffs,  to  the 
so-called  Degotalls  ('drops'),  a  kind  of  grotto  with  a  spring.  This  is, 
perhaps,  the  finest  walk  the  Montserrat  affords.  The  vegetation  is 
exuberant  and  the  view  most  extensive.  The  latter  embraces  the 
whole  of  Catalonia  and  a  considerable  part  of  Aragon ;  the  entire 
chain  of  the  Pyrenees  from  the  Maladeta  to  the  Canigou,  and  the 
Mediterranean  to  the  S.E.  At  our  feet,  apparently  within  a  stone's 
throw,  lies  Monistrol.  Along  the  cliffs  runs  a  pipe  carrying  water  to 
the  convent.  —  Another  short  path  descends  to  the  right  of  the 
Chapel  of  St.  Acisclo  to  the  Capilla  de  los  Apostoles  (p.  221). 

Walking  Trips  from  the  Monastery.  —  1.  We  follow  the 
Monistrol  road  (p.  221)  and  then  (left)  the  Igualada  road  to  the 
(1  hr.)  Capilla.  db  Santa  Cecilia,  (guide  2^2  Pm  superfluous),  at 
the  base  of  the  Turo  de  San  Jeronimo.  The  chapel  was  built  in  872, 
and  a  small  convent  was  added  about  a  century  later.  The  most 
interesting  feature  is  the  Campandrio  de  Espadana,  or  bell-tower. 
Adjacent  is  a  small  inn.  —  Near  this  point  lay  the  Castillo  Marro^ 
one  of  the  Christian  fastnesses  on  the  Montserrat  in  the  9th  century. 
The  others  were  the  castles  of  Morasiat,  Oiger,  ColVbatd^  and  Quardia, 


MONTSERRAT,  18.  Route.   225 

%  By  the  CoUbato  bridle-path  to  the  S.E.  to  (18-20  miiu)  the 
Capilla  db  San  Mioubl  (guide,  saperfluoos,  1  p.).  From  the 
chapel  we  may  descend  for  6  min.  towards  the  N.E.  to  a  cross  named 
Mkador^  whence  a  precipice  over  2000  ft.  in  height  descends  to  the 
valley  of  the  Llobregat.  Just  below  the  cross,  but  not  visible  ft'om 
it,  is  the  Gneva  de  la  Yirgen  (see  below).  The  monastery  looks  very 
singular  from  this  point  of  view.  To  the  N.£.  is  the  Montseny.  — 
From  the  path  to  St  Michael's  Chapel  another  footpath  leads  to  the 
right  to  the  cave  of  the  legendary  San  Juan  GAnfN,  a  hermit  who 
died  in  898,  after  having  inflicted  the  severest  penances  on  himself 
for  his  evil  treatment  of  Riqnilda,  daughter  of  Count  Wilfrid  the 
^^^fY  (p-  1^)*  ^<)  entrance  is  marked  by  a  black  cross  on  the 
face  of  the  rock. 

3.  The  ^Sendero  de  Santa  Maria\  marked  by  numerous  linger 
posts  (guide  1  p.,  unnecessary),  descends  firom  the  convent  to  (^^hr.) 
the  Santvabio  db  la  Cubva  or  Cueoa  de  la  Virgen  (not  accessible 
in  winter).  This  was  erected  at  the  end  of  the  17th  cent,  over  the 
fTTotto  in  which  the  miraculous  image  of  the  Virgin  (p.  224)  was 
hidden  in  717  on  the  invasion  of  the  Moors.  It  was  found  again  by 
shepherds  in  880,  and  an  attempt  was  made  to  carry  it  to  Manresa. 
The  image,  however,  refused  to  stir  beyond  a  spot  now  marked  by 
a  stone  cross  with  an  inscription,  just  to  the  E.  of  the  convent;  and 
it  was  this  miracle  that  led  to  the  erection  of  the  latter. 

4.  To  San  Jbb6nimo  (2  hrs.,  there  and  back  3-4  hrs. ;  guide, 
2*/2  p.,  desirable).  We  follow  the  Collbato  bridle-path  as  above  to 
(1&-20  min.)  the  CapiUa  de  San  Miguel,  about  5-6  min.  be)ond 
which  is  a  finger -post  indicating  the  route  to  (IV4  lir.)  Collbato 
(p.  222)  to  the  left.  We  here  follow  the  path  to  the  right,  which 
sweeps  round  the  Trenea  Batrale  towards  the  Yalle  Malo,  affording 
dne  views  of  the  country  round  Collbato  and  Esparraguera.  On  and 
among  the  rocks  we  see  the  picturesquely  situated  remains  of  the 
hermitages  of  Santiago,  Santa  Catalina,  San  Onofre  y  San  Juan,  and 
Sania  Magdalena  la  Vieja.  In  12-16  min.,  above  the  Ermita  de  Santa 
Anaj  we  reach  the , Yalle  Halo  (p.  219),  an  imposing  mountain 
valley,  traversed  by  the  Torrente  de  Santa  Maria  and  popularly  believed 
to  have  been  formed  at  the  moment  of  Christ's  death  on  the  cross. 

We  may  also  reach  the  Ermita  de  Santa  Ana  in  ahont  20  min.  by  a 
footpath  which  is  shorter  than  the  1  bridle-path,  but  not  nearly  so  pictur- 
esque. For  this  route  we  turn  to  the  right  on  emerging  from  the  portal 
of  the  monastery  and  ascend  by  the  so-called  ^Jacob'^s  Ladder'  through  the 
narrow  Valle  Malo. 

Farther  on  the  path  follows  the  Torrente  de  Santa  Maria,  the  first 
and  fairly  level  portion  traversing  the  lAano  de  Vfporas.  The  ridges 
on  both  sides  of  the  valley  are  topped  by  the  fantastic  Penascosj  or 
'(Juardians  of  the  Holy  Grail',  some  of  which  are  300  ft.  high.  To 
the  right  are  the  Caball  Bemat ,  the  Bocas  de  San  Antonio,  with 
the  hermitage  of  that  name  (reached  by  a  stiff  climb  of  */2  hr.),  the 
CaUtvera  (skull),  and  the  Dedos  (fingers)  or  Flautat  (flutes) ,  also 

BAKDBKKa's  Spain.  15 


226   Routt  18.  MONTSERRAT. 

called  the  J^oeetion  de  Monjts  (procession  of  monks).  To  the  left  is 
the  Albarda  Caatellana,  or  Gastilian  saddle.  On  the  right  side  are 
the  Ermitas  de  San  Benito^  de  la  Trirudctd^  de  San  Dimat,  and  other 
hermitages.    Near  San  Dimas  lay  the  castle  of  Monsiat  (p.  224). 

The  hermitage  of  8an  Jerlmimo  (Cat.  Sant  Jeroni)  lies  about 
1  hr.  to  the  N.W.  of  Santa  Ana,  just  below  the  culminating  peak  of 
the  mountain,  which  is  reached  hence  in  20  min.  by  a  scramble 
over  smooth  and  slippery  rocks  (caution  necessary).  The  summit, 
known  as  El  Mirador,  La  Miranda^  or  the  Tur6  de  San  JeHkdmo 
(4070  ft.),  commands  a  superb  ** Panorama  of  the  Catalonian 
mountains  and  plains,  extending  on  the  N.  to  the  Pyrenees  and  on 
the  E.  and  S.  far  over  the  Mediterranean,  where  even  the  Balearic 
Islands  may  be  made  out  on  exceptionally  clear  days.  The  view  of 
the  Montserrat  itself  is  also  interesting.  Among  the  nearer  points 
(not  already  mentioned)  are  the  CHgante  Encantado  (the  enchanted 
giant),  the  Montgros,  the  Plana  de  los  Rayos  (lightnings),  and  the 
EcoSj  with  their  sheer  and  dizzy  cliffs.  The  iron  ring  in  the  rock  was 
formerly  used  for  mooring  a  small  chapel.  —  The  landlord  of  the 
Gollbato  inn  opens  a  restaurant  at  the  hermitage  of  San  Jer6nimo 
from  May  to  the  end  of  Oct.  (excellent  water  from  a  cistern  in  the  rock). 

Steady-headed  mountaineera  may  climb  from  San  Jer6nimo  the  Of*  br.) 
Rocas  de  leu  Oolondrinas  (*8wallow-rockfl''),  which  ri»e  boldly  to  the  N.  of 
the  Roca  Montcau  or  del  Moro. 

The  ascent  of  the  Mantgros  (21/2  hrs.  from  the  monastery)  ia  intereating 
but  difficult  (guide  indispenaable). 

19.  From  Barcelona  viS,  San  Vicente  deCalders  to  Bins 

(Saragossa,  Madrid). 

The  coaat-railway  from  Barcelona  to  R^ua  forma  the  moat  direct  and 
important  line  of  communication  between  Barcelona  and  Saragoasa  (Madrid): 
the  inland  railway  via  Martorell  is  moatly  uaed  for  local  traffic,  but  is  of 
importance  for  the  visitor  to  Montaerrat. 

a.  Coast  Bailway  vik  Yillanneya  y  Oeltri. 

66  M.  Railway  (two  through-traina  daily,  in  the  height  of  aummer  five-, 
to  Madrid  one  only)  in  3V4-7V4  hrs.  (farea  H  p.  55  c,  11  p.,  7  p.  40  c.).  The 
express  train  mentioned  at  p.  1*^0  a'ao  performa  the  journey  thrice  weekly 
in  2V4  hra.  Passengers  travelling  direct  from  Barcelona  to  Lirida  via 
Montblanch  (Poblet)  quit  this  line  at  Roda  de  Bard  (p.  227).  —  Trains 
leave  Barcelona  from  the  Eataci6n  de  Francia.  Detpacho  Central^  aee  p.  194. 
Best  viewa  to  the  left.  —  Kailway-reatauranta  at  Barcaona,  Villanueva  y 
Oeltru,  Roda  de  Bard^  and  San  Vicente  de  Calders. 

Barcelona^  see  p.  194.  —  The  train  traverses  the  suburban  dis- 
tricts of  (6  M.)  Sans  and  (6V2  M.)  Bordeta,  with  their  gardens,  fields, 
and  factories.  To  the  left  rises  the  Montjuich  fp.  210),  with  the  W. 
cemetery  ;  to  the  right  is  the  Montana  de  San  Pedro  Mdrtir  (p.  211), 
with  the  villages  of  Esplugaa  and  San  Jtist,  The  line  touches  the 
beautiful  Campina  de  Barcelona,  crosses  the  Llobreeat  by  an  iron 
bridge,J380  ft.  long,  and  reaches  (^%U.}Ptat  deLlobregaly  a  pleas- 


VILLANUEVA  Y  GELTRU.      19.  RouU.   227 

ant  little  town  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  near  the  sea,  with  sev* 
era!  Artesian  welli. 

We  now  traTOTse  an  attractive  undulating  district,  with  Tineyards 
and  olive-groves.  141/2  M.  Oavd,  Beyond  the  ruins  of  the  old  Ccm- 
tmo  de  ArampruiiH  is  (17  M.)  CaiteUdefeU,  a  poor  fishing- village  with 
a  small  Romanesque  ohureh  and  remains  of  mediaeval  fortiflcationB. 

At  (18  M.)  VeiUbona  we  approach  the  margin  of  the  sea,  and  then  , 
traverse  the  barren  and  precipitous  heights  of  the  Coatatde  Oarraf,  The 
dwarf-palms  or  palmetto-scrub  (Chamaerops  hum  ills)  growing  here 
is  used  as  fuel.    The  numerous  tunnels  allow  the  merest  glimpses  of 
the  sea.   Several  mountain-torrents  are  crossed. 

26  M.  8iige»  (Fonda  Suburense),  a  pleasant  seaport  with  8100 
Inhab.,  is  favourably  known  for  its  wine.  Near  it  is  the  Santuario  de 
NueitraSeHoradel  Vinyet.  —  We  continue  to  skirt  the  sea,  crossing 
the  RUra  de  CanblUu  and  several  torrents. 

31  M.  "^miaaveTft  y  Oeltrti  (Fonda  Naciondl;  RaU.  Restaurant), 
a  thriving  commercial  town  with  a  pop.  of  12,800.  The  Mtaeo 
BaUtguefy  founded  by  the  Catalan  poet  Victor  Balaguer,  contains 
Egyptian  and  Roman  antiquities,  paintings  and  sculptures,  an  ethno- 
graphical collection,  and  a  valuable  library  with  MSS.  Arom  Poblet 
(p.  238),  Paular  (p.  122),  and  other  places.    British  vice-consul. 

The  railway  Intersects  a  large  part  of  the  town  and  threads  a 
tunnel.  Just  beyond  (34  M.)  CubeUaa  we  cross  the  FoiXy  a  river 
forming  the  boundary  between  the  provinces  of  Barcelona  and  Tarra- 
gona. — ■  At  (39 V2  M.)  Calafell  we  turn  away  from  the  sea,  crossing 
the  Riera  de  BUbdl  and  the  tra'^ks  of  the  railway  to  Tarragona. 

42  M.  Baa  Ticente  de  Calders  (Rail.  Restaurant),  the  junction 
for  the  Barcelona  and  Tarragona  line  (R.  20)  and  the  terminus  of 
the  inland  railway  (see  p.  230). 

As  we  proceed,  the  triumphal  Portal  de  Bara  (p.  230)  is  seen  to 
the  left  —  47  M.  Roda  de  Bara  (Rail.  Restaurant). 

Fkom  Bod  a  db  Baka  to  Picamoixoms  (for  Liridd),  18  M.,  railway  (three 
traiBS  daUy)  in  1-lVs  lur.  (fares  4,  3,  2  p.).  —  The  raUway  diverges  to  the 
K.W.  from  the  main  line.  Tunnel.  Numerous  vineyards.  —  5  M.  Salamd. 
Beyond  three  tunnels  we  croaa  the  Gayd.  From  (S'/s  M  )  Vildbetta  or  from 
Vails  (see  below)  we  may  visit  the  old  Cistercian  convent  of  Baatas  Creas, 
situated  SVs  M.  to  the  V.,  in  the  valley  of  the  Oaya,  near  VHabrodtma. 
The  convent  wa9  founded  by  Bamon  Berenguer  IV.  in  1157  and  was  almost 
wholly  destroyel  in  the  popular  rising  again  t  the  monks  In  1685.  It  is 
the  hurinl-place  of  Pedro  III.  of  Aragon  (d.  1285)  and  [of  the  celebrated 
Admiral  Roger  de  Laoria  (see  p.  2)2),  who  defi^ate  I  the  French  fleet  of 
Charles  of  Anjou  at  Naples  in  1284.  —  10  M.  NulUa.  —  ISVa  M.  Valla, 
an  industrial  town  of  11,800  inhab.,  with  well-pr .served  walls  and  towers. 
A  diligence  runs  h3nce  to  Tarragona  (p.  231).  —  We  now  cross  several 
oiountaln-torrenta  and  thread  a  tunnel.  —  18  H.^PtcamoiorofM,  S2e  p.  2dS. 

The  Reus  line  runs  towards  the  W.  and  enters  the  wine-growing 
hill-district  of  CoU  de  Moniera.  To  the  left  we  have  several  distant 
views  of  the  sea.  —  48  M.  Pohla;  61  M.  Riera,  —  We  traverse  sev- 
eral tunnels,  cuttings,  and  viaducts,  cross  the  Oaya  (see  above*) 
and  reach  (521/2  M.)  Catilar.    Beyond  (67  M.)  Seeuita  Perafort  t? 

15* 


228   Route  19.  Rl^US.  From  Barcelona 

traiu  crosses  the  highroad  from  Tarragona  to  Ltfrida  and  then  the 
Francolf  (p.  237).  From  (691/2  M.)  Morell^  where  we  have  a  wide 
view  on  the  left  extending  to  Tarragona,  we  descend  to  — 

66  M.  BiuB  (Hot.  de  PaHt),  a  prosperous  industrial  town  with 
27,700  inhab.,  situated  at  the  base  of  a  range  of  hills.  It  was  the 
birthplace  of  the  celebrated  painter  Mariano  Foriuny  (p.  Ixxxiv) 
,  and  of  General  Ftim  (1814-70),  whose  sword  is  preserved  in  the 
town-hall.  The  site  of  the  old  fortifications  is  now  occupied  by  a 
promenade  named  the  Arrabal,  The  octagonal  tower  (206  ft.  high) 
of  the  church  of  San  Pedro  commands  a  view  reaching  to  the  sea. 
About  the  beginning  of  the  present  centilry  English  manufacturers 
introduced  cotton-spinning ,  which  now  employs  5000  looms  and 
has  made  Reus  the  second  manufacturing  town  of  Catalonia.  Silk, 
linen,  leather,  soap,  machinery,  and  other  goods  are  also  made  here; 
and  Reus  is  likewise  known  for  its  ^champagne'  and  other  imita- 
tion French  wines.  The  manufacturing  population  is  one  of  the 
most  unruly  in  Spain. 

From  Reus  to  Saragosta,  see  R.  14;  to  LSrida,  see  B.  22. 

b.  Inland  Bsilway  ▼!&  MartoreU. 

76  M.  Rail  WAT  (three  through-trains  daily)  in  4V4-6V4  hrs.  (fares  14  p. 
55  c,  11  p.,  7  p.  40  c).  There  10  also  a  local  train  from  Barcelona  to  Marto- 
reU. Trains  start  from  the  Estad&n  de  Francia  (p.  194).  Tickets  to  the 
Montterratj  see  p.  221.  —  The  inland  railway  diverges  from  the  coastline 
at  Bordeta^  and  re-anites  with  it  at  San  Vicente  de  Caldert.  —  There  are  no 
railway-restaurants  en  route. 

Barcelona,  and  thence  to  (5V2  M.)  Bordeta,  see  p.  226.  —  Our 
line  runs  to  the  N.W.,  through  the  valley  of  the  Llobregat. 

7^2  ^'  Hospitalet  de  LZcbregat,  a  town  with  2400  inhab.,  beyond 
which  we  see  the  agricultural  institute  of  San  Isidro  to  the  left, 
while  on  the  right,  in  front,  rises  the  Montserrat  (p.  218).  —  91/2  M. 
Comelld  de  Llobregat,  on  the  Aciquia  de  la  Infanta,  with  silk-mills. 
On  a  hill  to  the  left  lies  San  Boy  de  Llobregat,  the  parish-church  of 
which  is  known  as  the  *Catheiral  of  the  Llobregat'.  —  We  now 
descend  into  the  valley  of  the  Llobregat  itself. 

11  M.  San  FeUa  de  Llobregat.  The  sides  of  the  valley,  consisting 
of  clay  Intermingled  with  blocks  of  stone,  are  worn  into  huge  fur- 
rows by  the  rain.  Numerous  un walled  terraces  (graderfa)  and  artifi- 
cial caverns  are  seen.  The  tawny  soil  bears  no  crops  unless  artifi- 
cially irrigated.  —  13^2  M.  MoUm  del  Bey,  in  a  fruitful  region,  is 
known  for  its  bridge  of  15  arches,  carrying  the  Villafranca  road 
(p.  229)  across  the  Llobregat. 

At  Vcaiirana,  71/2  M.  to  the  S.W.,  the  Villafranca  road  crosses  the  inter- 
esting Puente  del  Lladoner,  a  two-storied  viaduct  built  at  the  end  of  the 
iSth  century.  The  flrst  stage  consists  of  7  arches,  28  ft.  in  span,  the  second 
of  13  arches,  40  ft.  in  height. 

The  railway  keeps  to  the  left  bank  of  the  Llobregat,  passing  under 
the  village  of  PaUejd  by  a  tunnel.  —  I6V2  M.  Papfol,  with  an  old 
cabtle.   The  Montserrat  becomes  more  conspicuous ,  its  formations 


to  RSw.  MARTORELL.  79.  Route.   229 

recalling  the  Dolomites  of  8.  Tyrol.  Wells  and  other  apparatus  for 
irrigation  are  seen  in  the  fields.  On  the  S.  side  of  the  Llobregat 
lies  the  Tillage  of  San  AndrU  de  la  Barea,  We  approach  closely  to 
the  rlTer  and  thread  a  tnnnel.  On  issuing  from  the  latter,  -we  see  to 
the  left  the  *PuefiU  del  Diablo,  an  old  Roman  bridge,  which  has 
been  wrongly  ascribed  to  the  Garthaginians.  It  probably  consisted 
originally  of  three  small  arches,  two  of  vhich  seem  to  have  been  re- 
placed at  some  time  or  other  by  the  present  high  and  pointed  main 
arch,  on  the  top  of  which  is  a  small  gate.  On  the  left  bank,  near 
which  a  smaller  arch  has  been  cut  through  the  masonry,  stands  a 
much  damaged  Roman  Triumphal  Arch,  of  uncertain  date.  The  last 
of  the  numerous  reconstructions  of  the  bridge  was  made  in  1753. 
Below  the  bridge  the  Llobregat  penetrates  the  Montafuu  dt  Ordal 
by  a  deep  raTine. 

2IV2  M.  Xartorell,  a  town  with  3000  inhab.,  at  the  confluence 
of  the  Llobregat  and  the  Noya,  is  the  station  for  the  ascent  of  the 
Montserrat  from  the  S.E.  (comp.  p.  221).  The  mountain  here  shows 
itself  ill  its  full  grandeur,  with  Collbato  and  the  beautiful  plain  of 
the  Llobregat  at  its  base. 

A  Baanch  Railway  (24Vs  M.,  in  IV2-IV4  hr.  ^  farea  4  p.  40,  3  p.  30,  2  p. 
20  c.)  runs  to  the  N.W.  from  Martorell,  along  the  8.W.  aide  of  the  Mont- 
serrat, to  Igualadft,  an  industrial  town  on  the  l^oya,  with  10,200  inhab- 
itants. From  Ignalada  there  is  a  road  to  the  Monatiery  of  Montserrat  (p.  223) 
vii  Casa  Mcutana  and  the  CapiUa  de  Santa  Cecilia  (p.  224).  A  diligence 
runs  from  Ignalada  to  San  Guim  (p.  214). 

The  main  line  ascends  to  the  S.W.,  through  the  valley  of  the 
Noya,  to  the  plateau  of  Villafranca.  The  stream  is  crossed  repeatedly, 
and  the  Montserrat  remains  prominent  in  the  view. 

A  little  beyond  (26  M.)  Oelida  we  see  the  ruins  of  a  castle  and  a 
church  with  a  Gatalonian  bell-tower.  The  slopes  are  strewn  with 
great  blocks  of  stone.  We  traverse  a  cutting  90  ft.  deep. 

29^/2  M.  San  Sadumi  or  San  Saturnino  de  Noya ,  the  Noela  of 
Pliny,  ascribes  its  foundation  and  its  name  to  Noah  and  bears  an 
ark  in  its  coat-of-arms.  —  We  pass  through  a  cutting  3/^  M.  long, 
the  sides  of  which  are  faced  with  tiles  to  prevent  the  constant  ooz- 
ing out  of  the  moist  clay.  The  scenery  is  monotonous.  A  few  groves 
of  pines  are  passed.  The  line  ascends  a  little,  quits  the  valley  of  the 
Noya,  threads  a  tunnel,  and  reaches  the  main  plateau  at  (34  M.)  La 
Qranada.  —  We  then  descend  to  — 

37  M.  Villafranca  del  Panadas,  a  town  of  8100  inhab.,  forming 
the  focus  of  the  wine-growing  district  of  Panadea.  To  the  N.W.  rise 
the  Monianas  de  Montagut  (3125  ft.),  to  the  S.E.  the  ridge  of  La 
MoreUa  (1950  ft.),  to  the  N.E.  the  Montserrat.  The  town  contains  a 
.  much-modernized  church  with  a  bell-tower  of  the  14th  cent.,  an  old 
palace  of  the  Kings  of  Aragon,  the  palace  of  the  Barons  de  Rocafort, 
and  an  old  pilgrims'  hospital  (Pia  Almovna).  —  About  7  M.  to  the 
N.W.  lies  San  Martin  de  Sarroca,  with  an  excellently  preserved  Ro- 
manesque church  of  the  11th  century. 


230  Route  20.  ALTAFULLA. 

40  M.  Monjot.  —  W/^  M.  AMa,  on  the  hill  to  the  left,  is  the 
first  place  in  the  province  of  Tarragona,  To  the  right  are  the  heights 
of  the  PanadSs,  The  church  of  San  Julian,  with  its  three  towers, 
is  worth  seeing.  On  the  facade  are  statues  of  the  four  great  Latin 
Fathers  of  the  Church,  St.  Julian,  and  the  Virgin.  *-  The  train  de- 
scends to  the  S.W.  into  tiie  productive  wine -growing  district  of 
(481/2  M.)  VendreU,  a  town  with  4900  inhab.  and  a  lofty  bell-tower, 
which  rises  in  three  stages  and  is  surmounted  by  a  revolving  figure. 

52  M.  San  Vicente  de  CalderSy  and  thence  to  (76  M.)  BiuSy  see 
pp.  227,  228. 

20.  From  Barcelona  vi&  San  Vicente  de  Calders  to 
Tarragona  (Tortosa^  VaUnciuJ. 

bin.  or  67  M .  Railway  (Ferrocarriles  de  Tarragona  d  BarceUma  y 
Franeia)  in  3V2-4V4  hra.  (fares  12  p.  25,  9  p.  56,  6  p.  15  c).  One  through- 
train  runs  daily  by  the  coast-railway  (3V2  hrs.)  via  ViUanue»a  y  GdH 
(p.  227),  two  by  the  inland  line  via  MartoreU  (p.  239).  IVo  trains  daily 
run  through  to  Valencia  in  12-12V4  hrs.,  one  on  each  line  027  or  237  M.: 
fares  40  p.  75,  27  p.  76,  19  p.  60  c).  —  The  trains  start  from  the  Estaciun 
de  Franeia  (p.  194).  Despacho  CeatrcU^  see  p.  194.  —  Railway  rCEtaurants 
at  Barcelona^  Villanueva  y  QeUHi^  San  Vicente  dt  Caiders,  and  Tarragona. 

Barcelonoj  and  thence  to  (42  M.  or  52  M.)  San  Vicente  de  Caldertj 
see  K.  19. 

The  Tarragona  line  runs  close  to  the  sea,  the  sandy  beach  of 
which  is  fringed  with  aloes.  —  About  3  M.  beyond  San  Vicente,  on 
a  hill  to  the  right,  stands  the  so-called  Portal  de  Bard^  a  Roman 
triumphal  arch,  40  ft.  high  and  with  a  span  of  16  ft.  On  each  side 
are  two  (partly  modern)  pilasters.  The  inscription,  not  now  extant 
but  recorded  by  early  travellers,  ran :  *ex  testamento  L.  Licini  L. 
F.  Serg.  Surae  consecratum*.  This  connects  the  arch  with  the  wealthy 
Lucius  Licinius  Sura,  mentioned  by  Dion  Oassius,  and  refers  its 
erection  to  the  beginning  of  the  2nd  cent  of  the  Christian  era.  A 
Roman  road  ran  below  the  archway. 

4872  (P^^/i)  M.  Torredemharrd,  a  fishing-village  on  Cape  Gros, 
is  the  most  convenient  starting-point  for  a  visit  to  the  above-men- 
tioned monument.  —  60  (60)  M.  Altafulla,  finely  situated  on  a 
height.   The  railway  crosses  the  Oayd  and  recedes  from  the  sea. 

On  the  hill  to  the  right,  above  the  s-andy  Playas  Llargcu,  on  the  road 
from  Barcelona  to  Tarragona,  lies  the  so-called  Sepulcro  de  loa  Baeipionet, 
a  square  Roman  monument,  27  ft.  high,  rising  in  two  stages  from  a  stepped 
platform.  On  the  front  are  two  mourning  figures.  The  inscriptions  are 
now  illegible.  Between  the  figures  was  a  tablet,  said  to  have  been  re- 
moved by  Card.  Xim^nes.  The  belief  that  this  is  the  tomb  of  the  brothers 
Gnseus  and  Cornelius  Scipio,  both  of  whom  fell  at  Anitorgis  (p.  181),  has 
no  solid  foundation.  The  monument,  which  commands  a  fine  view  of  the 
sea  and  Tarragona,  may  be  visited  from  the  latter  (3  M.)  or  from  AltafuHa. 

The  railway  again  skirts  the  coast,  and  then  runs  through  a  deep 
cutting,  1100  yds.  long,  to  the  right  of  which  is  the  high-lying  city, 
while  to  the  left  is  the  Presidio  (p.  232). 

57  (67)  M.  Tarragona. 


231 
21.  Tarragona., 

XattwAy  8toti0B  (JMoeidn;  PL  G,  4),  to  tb«  8.  of  the  tows,  n—M  the 
hcrbonr.    OmmOmHt  (fwe,  iacL  luggage,  V*-!  P-)  nn  henee  to  the  hotela. 

Hetola.  *Qkam  Uotkl  dk  Paris  (Pi.  »s  i>,  fi,3),  BambU  Sm  Oariof, 
adjoining  the  infAiitry  barracks,  with  baths  |  *J?oNoa  i>i  Eukopa  (Pi.  b; 
I>,  2),  Bambla  San  Juan,  pens,  at  these  two  6-7  p.  \  Fuhda  dkl  Cemtho 
(PI.  C-,  i>,  3),  Bambla  San  Juan,  opposite  the  last,  aU  three  unpretending. 

Oafca  (comp.  p.  zxii).  iqf4  de  Jarragona^  Ca^i  d»  Pari$^  both  in  the 
Kambla  dan  Juan^  Cafi  <k  £spaSUt^  Bambla  dan  Ctirlos. 

Theatres.  Teatro  Principal  iPl.  D,  2j,  Bumbla  San  Carlos  t  Twiro  da 
AUMto.  -^  Bull  Bing  (i*kua  d$  Torog),  to  the  W.  of  the  new  town,  with 
room  for  17,5U)  spectators. 

Phetofxmphs  sold  by  Torres,  Bambla  San  Juan. 

Pest  Oftlee  (iorreo),  Calle  de  San  Agustin  (PL  D,  3). 

British  Yice-GMisiil,  Tk9ma$  Bob:n9tm,  Plasa  Olosaga.  —  United  BUtes 
OeunlarAffsnt,  IVaifo  Montapa.  —  Lloya  s  Agents,    Corey  Brother*  ^  Co. 

Plaa  of  Visit.  Tarragona  is  much  less  often  Tisitod  than  it  deservea, 
as  it  is  not  only  one  of  the  hittorically  most  interesting  towns  in  Spain, 
but  also  possesses  ancient  monuments  of  great  significance.  Those  who 
wish  to  see  all  that  the  town  has  to  offer,  as  well  as  the  Roman  Aqueduct 
(p.  'i37)  and  the  'Jomb  of  Vie  Seipiot  (p.  23U),  may  pass  two  or  three  days 
liere  with  pleasure  and  profit,  ihose  who  devote  only  one  day  to  Tarrar 
gona  should  waU  from  the  station  by  the  Paeeo  de  Santa  Clara  (p.  233; 
views)  to  the  JSurta  de  8(.n  Antonio  (p.  233),  and  afterwards  visit  the  noble 
Cathedral  (p.  233),  with  its  cloisters,  the  ifclopeat^Roman  Walle  (p.  236),  in 
the  Bajada  del  Kosario,  and  the  Mtueum  (p.  2i56). 

lamagona^  with  24,400  inhab.,  the  capital  of  a  proYlnce  and  the 
seat  of  an  archbishop,  who  shares  with  that  of  Toledo  the  title  of 
Primate  of  Spain,  is  picturesquely  situated  on  a  hill  rising  steeply 
from  the  sea  to  a  height  of  about  530  ft.  It  has  a  large  but  some- 
what deserted  harbour,  and  in  spite  of  its  modern  additions  has  a 
dull  and  poverty-stricken  appearance.  Its  once  strong  fortifications 
have  been  more  or  less  in  ruins  since  1811,  but  it  stiU  ranks  as  a 
'Plaza  de  Armas',  and  the  traveller  had  better  refrain  from  making 
sketches  in  its  streets.  The  highest  point,  the  seat  of  the  ancient 
citadel,  is  now  occupied  by  the  cathedral,  the  archiepiscopal  palace, 
and  a  seminary  for  prie^t8.  These  form  the  nucleus  of  the  Old 
Town,  with  its  narrow  and  irregular  street^,  bounded  on  the  S.E.  by 
the  Plaza  de  la  Fueiite,  which  was  once  the  Koiiian  circus.  The  houses 
are  largely  built  out  of  the  remains  of  ancient  buildings,  and  stones 
with  Roman  in.^criptions  and  fragments  of  Roman  sculptures  are  met 
at  every  step.  The  rest  of  the  area  of  Tarragona  is  occupied  by  the 
New  Town,  intersected  in  its  entire  width  by  the  Rambla  de  San 
Carlos  and  the  Rambla  de  San  Juan.  The  N.  and  E.  environs  of 
Tarragona  are  dreary,  but  to  the  W.  stretches  the  fertile  Campo  de 
Tarragonaj  watered  by  the  Francoli  (p.  237)  and  corered  with  vine- 
yards, olive-groves,  and  orchards  of  almond  and  nut  trees. 

The  ancients,  probably  without  good  reason,  ascribed  the  foundation 
of  the  original  rocky  fatness  of  Tdrrcuso  to  the  Etruacans.  In  B.C.  218, 
during  the  Second  Funic  War,  it  was  captored  by  Qnaeu*  and  Fubliue 
Comeliiu  Sdpio^  who  selected  it  as  the  Roman  headquarters  in  Si>ain  in 
opposiition  to  New  Carthage  (p.  29U)  and  constructed  here  a  large  harbour 
and  important  fortifications.  As  a  Koman  colony  (ColoiUa  toffoia)  it  became 
^he  seat  of  one  of  the  four  Conven*v*  Juridieiy  or  judicial  circuits  or  die- 


232  RouU2l.  TARRAGONA.         Paste  dt  S.  Clara. 

tricts,  into  which  Hitpania  Citerior  was  divided  (New  Carthage,  Tarraco, 
Gsesar-Augusta,  Glunia).  Id  spite  of  its  espousal  of  the  cause  of  Pompey, 
Gnsar  conferred  on  it  the  title  of  Julia  Victrix^  and  Angitstiu  resided  here 
in  the  winter  of  B.C.  26.  The  great  emperor  also  made  it  the  capital  of 
the  whole  province,  which  was  henceforth  generally  known  as  Hiapcmia 
Tarraeonemis.  He  adorned  the  city  with  namerous  magnificent  buildings, 
and  the  citizens  on  their  part  erected  a-  temple  of  the  Divus  Augustus, 
afterwards  restored  by  Hadrian.  At  this  period  it  is  believed  to  have  con- 
tained one-and-a-half  million  of  inhabitants.  Martial  and  Pliny  celebrate 
the  sunny  shores  (aprica  litora)  of  Tarraco,  and  its  wines  which  rivalled 
those  of  Falemian  vintage. 

In  the  Christian  period  Tarraco  became  the  see  of  an  archbishop.  In 
475  the  Visigoths  under  Euric  captured  the  dty,  destroyed  part  of  it,  and 
removed  the  bishopric  to  Vich  (p.  191).  It  again  suffered  reverses  through 
its  capture  by  the  Moors  in  713.  Under  the  Counts  of  Barcelona  the  arch- 
bishop was  restored  (1069),  but  the  city  remained  in  a  state  of  decay. 
Trade  left  it  for  the  Christian  Barcelona  and  the  Moorish  Valencia.  During 
the  War  of  Independence  Tarragona  was  occupied  by  the  English,  but  on 
June  29th,  1811,  after  a  gallant  resistance)  it  was  taken  and  plunaered  by 
the  French  under  Suchet. 

To  the  N.  of  the  Railway  Station  (PI.  G,  4)  lies  a  large  open 
space,  on  one  side  of  which  are  the  so-called  Despenaperroa  ('dog 
precipices*),  where  numerous  convicts  may  usually  be  seen  at  work. 
Several  streets  lead  hence  to  the  N.E.  to  the  Rahbla  db  Sax  Juan 
(PI.  C,  t),  2,  3),  a  wide,  tree-shaded  thoroughfare,  with  the  principal 
hotels,  caf^s,  and  shops  (comp.  p.  231).  At  its  S.E.  end,  opposite 
the  Paseo  de  Santa  Clara  (see  below),  is  a  large  bronze  statue  of 
Admiral  Roger  de  Lauria  (p.  227),  by  Felix  Ferrer  (1889).  —  A 
little  farther  up  is  the  Rambla  de  San  Cablos  (PI.  D,  £,  2),  the 
second  street  of  the  new  town,  containing  the  Teatro  PrincipcU 
(p.  231),  the  church  of  San  Francisco  (with  high-altar  in  the  form 
of  a  Roman  triumphal  arch),  the  Infantry  Barracks^  and  the  Oran  Hotel 
de  Paris  (p.  231).  From  the  N.W.  end  of  this  street  we  have  a  fine 
view  of  the  attractive  Campo  de  Tarragona  and  the  mountains  of  the 
Priorato  (p.  182).  At  the  S.E.  end  of  the  Rambla  are  the  Parque  de 
Artilleriay  or  artillery  arsenal,  constructed  almost  wholly  of  Roman 
remains,  and  the  Torre  de  Carlos  Quinto.   These  adjoin  liie  — 

*  Paseo  de  Santa  Clara  (PI.  E,  3,  2),  a  promenade  constructed 
on  the  remains  of  the  Roman  walls  (p.  236)  and  affording  wide  and 
beautiful  views  of  the  sea,  the  harbour,  and  the  coast.  Below  stretches 
a  dreary  coast-plain,  traversed  by  the  road  to  Barcelona.  Close  to 
the  shore  stands  the  Presidio  (PI.  E,  3),  a  large  prison  popularly 
known  as  El  Milayro  ('the  miracle').  Adjacent  are  the  remains  of 
a  Roman  Amphitheatre, 

Farther  on  in  the  Paseo  de  Santa  Clara,  to  the  left,  rises  the 
Torre^n  de  Pilatos  (PI.  E,  2),  another  prison,  rising  over  the  found- 
ations of  the  Roman  walls.  This  building,  supposed  to  be  a  part  of 
the  former  Palace  of  AugusttiSj  was  probably  the  seat  of  the  Roman 
Proconsul ;  it  was  afterwards  used  as  a  fortress  and  largely  destroyed. 
To  judge  from  the  adjacent  foundations,  it  was  originally  twice  as 
large  as  it  is  now.  The  name  is  due  to  the  groundless  belief  that 
l>ontius  Pilate  was  a  native  of  Tarraco.  —  In  the  Plaza  del  Rey,  to 


Caihedral,  TARRAGONA.  37.  Route,    233 

.the  N.  of  the  Torjceon  but  not  directly  accessible  from  the  Paseo 
de  Santa  Clan,  is  a  pretty  fountain  with  the  figure  of  a  nymph. 

At  the  end  of  the  paseo,  on  the  edge  of  the  town-hill,  here  de- 
scending abruptly  to  the  S.,  is  the  Casa  Provlneial  de  Bonefleencia 
(PL  F,  2),  with  its  charming  flower-garden,  perhaps  the  loveliest 
point  in  Tarragona.  In  front  of  the  garden-gate  stands  La  Cru%  de 
San  Antonio,  a  richly  carved  Renaissance  column,  with  reliefs.  — 
The  waste  ground  to  the  E.  affords  a  similar  view,  extending  on  the 
S.W.  to  Cape  Sal6u  (p.  237). 

We  now  turn  to  the  N.  and  pass  through  the  Puerta  de  San  An- 
tonto  (PL  F,  2)  into  the  labyrinth  of  streets  composing  the  old  town. 
By  following  the  Calle  de  la  Merced  to  the  left  and  then  the  Calle 
Plaza  del  Aceite  and  the  Calle  Nueva  del  Patriarca  to  the  right,  we 
reach  the  Li«ano  db  la  Catbdkal  (PI.  £,  1 ;  vegetable-market  in 
the  morning),  which  is  also  reached  by  a  flight  of  19  steps  (two 
modem  fountains  at  the  foot)  from  the  Calle  Mayor  (p.  236).  In  this 
plaza,  to  the  right  of  the  facade  of  the  cathedral,  is  a  house  with  a 
fine  ajimet  window  with  four  lights. 

The  *  Cathedral  (PI.  E,  1),  begun  on  the  site  of  a  mosque  soon 
after  the  expulsion  of  the  Moors  (1118),  dates  mainly  from  the  end 
of  the  12th  and  the  first  half  of  the  13th  cent.,  with  additions  of  the 
14-18th  cent.,  and  is  one  of  the  most  brilliant  examples  of  the  late- 
Bomauesque  Transition  style.  A  certain  Frater  Bertiardus  (d.  1256) 
is  named  as  the  ^magister  operis',  and  he  is  very  probably  the  actual 
designer  of  the  building.  The  total  length  of  the  church  is  about 
320ft;  the  nave  is  163  ft.  long  and  63  ft.  wide;  the  aisles  are 
25  ft.  in  width.  The  chapels  flanking  the  aisles  were  added  in  the 
15-18th  centuries.  The  transept  is  160  ft.  long  and  50  ft.  wide,  with 
.an  octagonal  cimborio  above  the  crossing.  The  capilla  mayor,  93  ft. 
long,  is  flanked  by  two  smaller  apses.  At  the  angle  formed  by  the 
apse  and  the  S.  transept  rises  a  steeple  (205  ft.  high),  the  octagonal 
part  of  which  seems  to  date  from  the  beginning  of  the  14th  century. 

No  good  general  view  is  obtainable  of  the  exterior  of  the  cathe- 
.dral  with  its  numerous  additions,  the  cloisters  to  the  N.E.,  and  the 
old  church  of  Santa  Tecla  (p.  236)  to  the  S.E.  Among  the  best-seen 
portions  are  the  S.  transept  and  tiie  N.W.  lateral  chapels  with  their 
axulejo  roofs.  The  ♦West  Facade,  built  of  a  light-coloured  stone  to 
which  time  has  imparted  a  golden  brown  tone,  was  begun  in  1278 
but  left  unfinished  in  its  upper  part  In  the  centre  is  a  deep  Gothic 
portal,  enclosed  by  massive  buttresses  and  surmounted  by  a  tympan- 
um pierced  with  rich  geometrical  tracery,  while  over  this  is  a  large 
rose-window,  like  those  seen  in  the  cathedrals  of  N.  France.  The 
beautiful  tracery  and  sculptures  of  the  main  portal  are  by  Maestre 
BoirtolowU  (1282).  The  Utter  include  figures  of  the  Virgin  and  Child, 
Prophets  and  Apostles,  and  a  relief  of  the  Last  Judgment.  The 
clumsy  figures  on  the  buttresses  are  a  later  addition  hy  Jaime  CastayU 
(1375).  The  iron-mounted  doors,  with  their  artistically  executed 


234   Route  21.  TARRAGONA.  Ctdkedral. 

hinges,  knockers,  and  coppei  nails,  were  presented  in  1610  by  Arcbbp, 
Oontalo  de  Heredia,  To  tlie  right  and  left  are  two  smaller  Roman- 
esque side-portals ;  above  that  to  the  N.  is  a  flue  group  of  the  Adora- 
tion of  the  Magi  (i3th  cent.). 

The  Inteuob,  except  the  side-chapels  and  the  14th  cent,  win- 
dows of  the  nave,  belongs  to  the  iSth  cent,  and  produces  an  effect 
of  great  solemnity  and  majesty.  The  roof  is  borne  by  14  mighty 
piers,  each  about  85  ft.  in  circumference ;  these  are  strengthened, 
in  harmony  with  the  developed  Romanesque  style,  by  half-columns 
with  richly  eculptured  capitals,   from  which  the  arches  spring. 

The  CoBO,  made  of  marble  and  sandstone,  dates  from  the  14th 
century.  At  its  W.  side  is  an  iron-mounted  door,  the  keystone  over 
which  is  curiously  sculptured.  Adjacent  is  the  tomb  of  King  James  I, 
of  Aragon  {Jaime  €l  Conquistador;  d.  1276),  erected  in  1866  to  re- 
place the  ruined  monument  at  Poblet  (p.  238),  the  remains  of  which 
have  been  used  in  the  new  work.  Inside  the  core  are  two  rows  of 
well-carved  choir-stalls  by  Francisco  Oomar  of  Saragossa  (1478-93). 
The  bishop's  throne  is  in  the  Renaissance  style.  The  richly  carved 
organ  is  by  Jaime  Amig6  of  Tortosa  (1663).  The  £.  end  of  the  coro 
is  separated  from  the  transept  by  an  iron  reja,  to  the  right  and  left 
of  which  are  pulpits  and  old  holy-water  basins  (beginning  of  the 
13th  cent.).  —  Against  the  outside  of  the  N.  wall  of  the  coro  is  the 
small  Cafilla  db  Santo  Sbfulcbo,  with  a  sculptured  Piet^  of  1494, 
placed  on  a  late-Roman  sarcophagus. 

The  Sidb  Ohapbls  are  shown  by  the  sacristan  for  a  fee  of  1/2- 1  P* 
The  two  first  (right  and  left)  were  added  in  the  Gothic  style  in  the 
16th  cent.,  the  others  date  from  the  16-18th  cent,  and  are  in  the 
Renaissance  and  baroque  styles.  The  Gaiilla  de  la  Anunciacion 
(2nd  to  the  left)  contains  the  fine  Renaissance  monument  of  Arehbp* 
Luis  de  Cardona  (d.  1631).  In  the  Oafilla  db  la  Oonobfcion  (3rd 
to  the  left)  are  the  rich  baroque  tombs  of  Canon  Didaeo  Qir6n  de 
RoboUedo  (d.  1682)  and  his  brother  Qodofredo.  The  2nd  chapel  to 
the  right  is  the  Baftistby,  also  called  the  Capilia  de  las  Virgenes; 
it  contains  an  ancient  marble  sarcophagus  or  bath,  now  used  as  a  font 
The  Cafilla  db  Santa  Tbcla  (3rd  to  the  right),  erected  in  1760-76, 
contains  the  relics  of  the  tutelary  saint  of  Tarragona,  on  whose  day 
(Sept.  23rd)  the  cathedral  is  hung  with  52  pieces  of  Flemish  tapestry 
(tapfces)  of  the  17th  century.  In  the  Cafilla  db  Santa  Lucia  (6th 
to  the  right)  is  a  relief  of  Christ  in  the  Temple  (16th  cent.). 

The  Transbft,  with  its  octagonal  lantern  and  large  rose-win- 
dows, produces  an  effect  of  great  space  and  light.  The  magnificent 
stained  glass  in  the  rose-windows  was  executed  by  Juan  Guas  in 
1574 ;  that  in  the  N.  window  has  been  in  part  restored.  The  chan- 
deliers are  modern.  —  The  N.  arm  of  the  transept  is  adjoined  by 
the  Cafilla  del  Santisimo  Sagbamento  ,  erected  under  Archbp. 
Antonio  Agustin  (d.  1586)  in  the  Renaissance  style;  the  columns 
"^re  said  to  have  been  brought  from  the  Forum  Roman um. 


.Cathedral.  TARRAaONA.  2/.  Route.   235 

The  CAPiifLA  Matob,  with  it&  small  windows  and  semicircnlar 
teimination,  and  tlie  two  small  apses  to  its  right  and  left,  are  the 
oldest  parts  of  the  building.  The  Gothic  retablo  is  adorned  with 
good  statues  of  the  Virgin  and  Child  and  of  SS.  Thecla  and  Paul, 
and  also  with  most  minutely  executed  reliefs  by  Pedro  Juan  de 
Tamtgona  and  OuUlon  de  Mota  (1426-34),  representing  scenes  from 
the  lives  of  Christ  and  St.  Thecla.  Behind  the  high-altar  is  an  an- 
cient window,  with  three  Byzantine  columns  and  a  sarcophagus,  said 
to  contain  the  bones  of  Archbp.  Cyprian  (d.  688).  —  To  the  right 
of  the  high-altar  is  the  marble  monument  of  ArMp,  Juan  de  Ara- 
9(m(d.  1334).  The  beautiful  marble  pavement  deserves  attention. 

In  the  8.  (right)  lateral  apse  is  the  entrance  to  the  Campanario,  or 
tower,  which  may  be  ascended  (199  steps)  for  the  sake  of  the  view.  The 
topmost  bell  is  known  as  *Copona\ 

From  the  N.E.  part  of  the  church,  adjoining  the  N.  transept,  we 
enter  the  ♦♦Cloistbbs,  which  date  mainly  from  the  first  half  of  the 
13th  cent,  and  are  among  the  most  beautiful  in  Spain.  Their  un- 
usual position,  to  the  14. £.  of  the  church,  is  doubtless  due  to  such 
special  reasons  as  the  nature  of  the  site  and  the  presence  of  older 
buildings  on  the  S.  side.  The  cloisters  of  Chester  Cathedral  lie  to 
the  N.  of  the  church  for  similar  reasons. 

The  beautiful  ^Portal,  which  was  originally  an  open  archway  without 
a  door,  has  finely  carved  engaged  shafts  on  each  jamb  and  is  divided  into 
parts  by  a  central  column.  On  the  capital  of  this  central  shaft  are  carved 
the  Nativity ,  the  Journey  of  the  Magi ,  and  the  Adoration  of  the  Huly 
Child.  In  the  tympanum  is  the  Saviour  in  an  aureole,  surrounded  by  the 
symbols  of  the  Evangelists. 

The  Clozstebs  themselves  are  about  150  ft.  square.  The  central  garth 
is  filled  with  oleanders  and  other  evergreens,  contrasting  delightfully  with 
the  masonry  of  the  buildings.  The  surrounding  walks  are  roofed  with 
quadripartite  groining,  supported,  on  the  side  next  the  court,  by  engaged 
shafts  placed  against  the  piers.  Each  bay  has  three  round  arches  divided 
by  coupled  shafts:  above  are  two  circular  openings.  Some  of  the  latter 
still  retain  their  Moresque  tracery,  which  casts  most  picturesque  shadows 
on  ihe  beautiful  flooring.  The  capitals  of  the  columns  are  adorned  with 
motives  drawn  from  the  animal  or  vegetable  world.  Some  of  these  are 
of  a  humorous  character;  one  represents  a  company  of  rats  carrying  a  cat 
on  a  bier,  which,  however,  suddenly  revives  from  its  counterfeited  death 
and  springs  upon  its  would-be  grave-diggers  (abacus  of  third  column  to 
the  right  of  the  doorway  from  the  cathedral).  —  In  the  S.E.  corner  of 
the  cloisters  is  the  entrance  to  the  old  Chafteb  House,  now  the  Capilla 
de  Corpore  Chrigti,  with  statues  of  the  Virgin  and  twelve  saints  (15th  cent.). 
Adjacent,  to  the  left,  are  the  Archives  and  the  new  Aula  CapiitUar.  —  The 
Capiila  de  Santa  Maria  Magdakna,  to  the  right  of  the  chapter-house,  con- 
tains a  good  altar-piece  of  the  15th  century.  —  On  the  W.  wall,  between 
the  side-entrance  to  the  Capilla  del  Santisimo  Sacramento  (p.  234)  and  the 
portal  leading  to  the  Calle  de  las  Carnicerias  del  Gabildo  (see  below),  is  a 
small  Moorish  window,  said  to  be  a  prayer-niche  or  mlhrS,b  (?)  \  the  Cufic 
inscription  shows  that  it  dates  from  the  year  of  the  Hegira847  (.958  A.D.). 
Adjacent  are  Roman  and  medieeval  fragments,  gravestones,  and  the  like. 

We  now  ascend  through  the  Calle  de  las  Camicerfas  delCabildo, 
in  the  lower  part  of  which,  to  the  right  (No.  6),  are  immured  two 
stones  with  Roman  inscriptions  and  one  with  an  Arabic  inscription. 
The  Calle  ends  at  the  Plaza  del  Palacio  and  the  Falacio  Arzobispal 


236  BouU2L  TARRAGONA.         Mus,  Arqueohgieo,. 

rarohlepiscopal  palace;  Pi.  E,  1),  a  building  of  the  beginning  of  tlie 
19th  cent.,  'with  an  old  fortified  tower  (not  al'ways  accessible).  It 
stands  on  the  highest  point  in  Tarragona,  on  the  site  of  the  old  Bo- 
man  citadel,  and  commands  a  beaotiful  view.  In  the  walls  of  the 
court  are  immured  a  few  Roman  tombstones,  among  others  that 
(No.  4)  of  a  young  charioteer  (auriga),  of  whom  the  metrical  inscrip- 
tion reports  that  he  would  rather  have  died  in  the  circus  than  offerer. 

From  the  Plaza  del  Palacio  we  now  proceed  to  the  £.  through 
the  Galle  de  San  ]?ablo.  Here,  to  the  left,  is  the  large  Sbminabio 
GoNCiLiAB  (PI.  F,  1),  or  priests*  seminary,  built  in  1885.  Its  court 
contains  (left)  the  CapiUa  de  San  Pablo,  built  in  the  Transition  style 
at  the  beginning  of  the  13th  century.  —  To  the  right,  at  the  comer 
of  the  Galle  de  Yilamitjana,  stands  the  small  church  of  Santa  Teela^ 
built  in  the  12th  cent,  and  the  original  cathedral  of  Tarragona. 
Passing  it,  we  return  along  the  Galle  de  Yilamitjana  to  the  Llano  de 
la  Gatedral  (p.  233). 

Opposite  the  W.  facade  of  the  cathedral  the  Galle  Mayor  (p.  233) 
and  the  Bajada  de  la  Misericordia  descend  rapidly  to  the  Plaza  de 
LA  FuBNTE  (PI.  D,  2),  or  PUiTa  de  la  Constitucidn  j  the  shape  of 
which  indicates  that  it  is  the  successor  of  the  Roman  circus.  In  front 
of  the  house  No.  43  is  an  Old  Roman  Well,  160  ft.  deep,  which  may 
be  descended  on  application  at  the  Museo  Provincial. 

At  the  N.  end  of  the  plaza  stands  the  Casa  ConsUtorial,  contain- 
ing the  Museo  Arqu6ol6gico  Froyinoial  (PI.  D,  1,  2),  an  interest- 
ing collection  of  ancient  and  mediaeval  objects.  The  museum  is  open 
on  week-days,  9-1  and  2.30-5  (conserje  1/2"!  P* ;  catalogue  2  p.). 
Entrance  by  the  last  door  to  the  right. 

Entkanck  Boom.  Fragments  of  columns,  capitals,  sarcophagi,  and 
other  Roman  objects  found  in  Tarragona,  including  a  mill  (mola).  —  Haim 
Boom  (left).  Negro  boy  as  bearer  of  a  bronze  lamp }  torso  of  the  godde«s 
Pomona  \  torso  of  a  young  Roman  patrician  ^  statuette  of  Juno ;  torso  of 
Venus:  Roman  mosaics  with  the  head  of  Medusa,  etc.;  marble  'Torso  of 
a  youthful  Bacchus,  with  soft  and  beautiful  forms*,  antique  busts  of  the 
Emperors  Hadrian,  Trajan,  Marcus  Aurelius,  and  L.  Aurelius  Verus  •,  am- 
phorsB*,  weapons  J  model  of  the  above-mentioned  old  Roman  well.  Parch- 
ment roll  with  miniature  portraits  of  the  Counts  of  Barcelona  and  Kings 
of  Aragon  down  to  Martin  I.  the  Humane  (d.  1410).  Collection  of  coins, 
with  valuable  Phoenician,  Iberian,  and  ancient  Roman  specimens.  —  Room 
OPPOSITE  THE  Entrance.  Recumbent  effigy  of  the  Conde  de  Santa  Ooloma ; 
part  of  the  old  tomb  of  King  James  I.  (p-234);  azulejos  from  Poblet  (p.  238). 

From  the  Casa  Consistorial  a  number  of  narrow  streets  lead  to  the 
N.E.  to  the  Fuerta  del  Bosario  (PI.  D,  1).  A  little  farther  on,  in  the 
Bajada  del  Rosario,  are  the  imposing  remains  of  some  prehistoric 
*  Cyclopean  WalUy  such  as  are  scarcely  paralleled  in  any  other  part 
•  of  Spain.  They  consist  of  enormous  unhewn  blocks,  which  served  as 
foundations  for  the  Roman  walls.  The  small  doorway  of  the  pre- 
Roman  citadel  is  also  visible.  —  The  view  outside  the  Puerta  del 
Rosario  is  magnificent.  The  road  beginning  here  skirts  the  N.  side 
'^f  the  town,  with  its  walls  and  towers,  and  then  leads  past  the  wa- 

-  conduit  (left)  to  the  Gementerio,  the  Alto  del  Olive,  and  the 


Harbour.  TARRAGONA.  2i.  /Joule.   237 

Roman  Aqueduct  (see  below).  The  footpaths  running  to  the  £.  from 
this  road  also  afford  a  series  of  charming  yiews. 

The  lower  part  of  the  new  town,  to  the  W.  of  the  Rambla  de 
San  Juan  (p.  232),  is  uninteresting.  An  interesting  walk  may, 
however^  be  taken  through  the  Barrio  de  Peseadorea ,  or  seamen's 
quarter,  to  the  W.  (beyond  Pi.  A,  3),  most  of  the  houses  in  which 
are  coloured  light-blue. 

The  Harbour  (Puerto;  PI.  A,  B,  4)  is  sheltered  on  the  S.E.  by 
the  MuelU  de  Levante,  a  mole  1400  yds.  long,  with  a  lighthouse  at 
the  end  of  it.  This  was  originally  constructed  by  Amau  Boncha  in 
1491,  partly  with  the  fragments  of  the  Roman  Amphitheatre  (p.  232), 
but  since  then  it  has  been  greatly  enlarged.  It  commands  the  finest 
view  of  the  town  and  the  mountains  of  the  Priorato;  and  it  always 
.affords  an  attractive  promenade,  particularly  when  the  K.  wiikd  hurls 
the  waves  against  its  seaward  face.  —  Tlie  old  Roman  mole,  known 
to  skippers  as  the  Mitjorn,  has  disappeared  during  the  recent  har- 
bour works.  It  was  composed  of  chests  (arks)  filled  with  stones  and 
piled  one  above  another.  The  harbour  used  by  the  Moors  lay  where 
the  lowest  part  of'the  new  town  to  the  W.  now  is. 

Ezcunioiis.  The  most  intere.^tint:  is  that  to  the  Old  Roman  Aqueduct 
r>n  the  road  to  Valls  (p.  227).  The  distance  is  about  2^^  M.  The  charge 
for  a  carriage  and  pair  is  about  10  p.-,  or  the  Valls  diligence  (twice  or 
thjriee  daily)  may  be  used  in  going.  —  The  road  leaves  the  town  by  the 
Pnerta  del  Kosario  (p.  236),  touches  the  Cem^erio  with  its  beautiful  cy- 
profi.ses,  and  then  (lU  min.)  pas-^es  the  Alto  del  Olivo,  a  ruined  fort  com- 
manding; a  noble  view  (evening;- light  best),  llie  ''Koman  Aqnednot, 
popularly  known  as  the  Aeuedueio  de  Uu  Ferreras  or  /\mt  dd  DiabUs  is  one 
of  the  mi'ft  imposing  monuments  of  the  Roman  period  in  Spain.  It  was 
built,  perhaps  about  the  beginning  of  the  imperial  epoch,  to  bring  the 
water  of  the  diftant  Gayi  (p.  227)  to  Tarragona  through  one  of  the  side 
valleys  of  the  FrancoH.  The  structure  consists  of  two  tiers,  the  lower 
with  11,  the  upper  with  26  archea.  The  length  of  the  lower  tier  is  240  ft., 
its  height  43  ft.  s  the  upper  is  712  ft.  long  and  109  ft.  high.  The  whole 
length  of  the  aqueduct,  which  was  restored  to  use  in  1781-1800,  is  about 
22  H. ;  part  of  it  is  subterranean. 

Other  excursions  may  be  made  to  the  Roman  Triumphal  Ardi  at  Torre- 
tlembarri  (p.  2^0);  to  the  so-called  Tomb  of  Ute  Sdpiog  (see  p.  230)  j  to 
Montbianch  and  FMet  (see  p.  238). 


22.  From  Tarragona  to  L6rida  vid  Bins. 

64  M.  Railway  (two  through-trains  daily)  in  3»/4  hrs.  (fires  11  p.  85, 
8  p.  90,  6  p.  65  c).  There  are  no  refreshment  rooms  on  the  way.  —  On 
the  whole  this  line  is  uninteresting. 

Tarragona,  see  p.  231.  < —  The  railway  skirts  the  harbour  and  the 
fishermen's  suburb  and  runs  nearly  parallel  with  the  old  road  and 
the  line  to  Tortosa.  It  traverses  the  fertile  plain  of  Tarragona  and 
crosses  the  Franeolf  (the  Tulcia  of  the  Romans)  and  the  Boetla.  — 
5V2  M.  ViloHca,  near  theCabo  Salou  (S.E.)  and  the  station  of  8aU5u, 
on  the  railway  to  Tortosa  (p.  238).  Our  line  turns  to  the  N.W. 

At  (10  M.)  Belli  (p.  228)  our  line  crosses  the  railway  from  Bar- 
celona to  Saragossa  (RR.  19,  14). 


238   Route  22,  POBLET. 

We  now  run  towards  the  N.W.,  at  first  skirting  the  range  of  hills 
that  bounds  the  valley  of  the  Francolf  on  the  W.  and  then  following 
the  river  itself.  —  141/2  M.  Selva;  18  M.  Aleaver;  21 1/2  M.  Plana- 
Picamoixofu,  the  junction  of  the  branch-line  to  Roda  de  Bard  (and 
Bareelonay,  23  M.  La  Bioa;  241/2  M.  VUavert. 

27  V2  ^*  Montblaneh^  a  small  town  of  4700  inhab.  in  the  valley 
of  the  Francolf,  with  old  walls,  gates,  and  towers. 

About  6  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  M ontblaDCh,  in  a  valley  of  the  Sierra  de  Pradei 
opening  near  Espluga  de  Francoli  (soe  below),  lies  tbe  famous  Cistercian 
abbey  of  *Poblet,  surnamed  El  Sartto,  after  St.  Poblet,  to  whom  the  Moors 
granted  the  whole  district  of  the  Hardeta.  Bamcn  Berenguer  IV.  built  the 
convent,  which  became  the  burial-place  of  the  Kings  of  Aragon  and  aftorwurds 
of  the  Counts  of  Segorbe  and  Cardona.  The  Romanesque  church,  with  its 
domed  tower,  the  beautiful  cloisters,  and  the  chapter-house  (14th  cent.) 
were  plundered  and  partly  destroyed  in  1822-35.  The  royal  monuments 
also  suffered,  and  that  of  Jaime  I.  has  been  removed  to  Tarragona  (p.  234), 
The  existing  remains  are,  however,  very  imposing  and  deserve  a  visit. 
The  sadly  mutilated  retablo  mayor  is  a  magnificent  piece  of  Renais- 
sance carving,  perhaps  by  Berruguete.  Philip,  Duke  of  Wharton,  *that 
strangest  meteor  of  the  eighteenth  century%  died  at  Poblet  in  1731. 

We  continue  to  ascend  the  Francolf  valley  to  the  N.W.  —  31 M. 
Espluga  del  Francolf^  3  M.  from  Poblet  and  the  best  starting-point 
for  a  visit  to  the  convent  on  foot.  —  The  railway  now  leaves  the 
river  and  begins  to  climb  the  Sieirra  de  Prades.  34  M.  Viirhodfy  on 
the  E.  slope  of  the  sierra.  The  highest  point  reached  by  the  line 
is  3316  ft.  above  the  sea.  We  then  descend  on  the  W.  into  the  pro- 
vince of  Urida,  —  Beyond  (391/2  M.)  Vinaixa  lies  a  hilly  district 
named  the  CoU  del  Orano  de  Vinaixa,  46  M.  Moresta.  We  cross  the 
Brugent.  —  48I/2  M.  Borjds,  situated  in  the  lilano  de  Urgel  on  the 
bank  of  the  Canal  de  Vrgd.  521/2  M.  Juneda;  57  M.  Puigvert-Artesa, 

UM.  Linda,  see  p.  216. 

23.  From  Tarragona  to  Tortosa  (Valencia).^ 

52Vs  M.  Railway  (three  trains  daily)  in  2Vs-6  hrs.  •,  fares  8  p.  70,  5  p.  60, 
4  p.  15  c.  (to  Valencia,  171  M.,  tw  o  through-trains  daily  in  ^A  hrs.).  — 
The  journey  is  interesting,  though  some  deiolate  tracts  are  traversed. 
Best  views  to  the  left.  —  Railway-restaurants  at  Tarragona  and  Toriotft, 

Tarragona,  see  p.  231.  —  For  a  time  the  line  runs  parallel  with 
that  to  Li^rida  (R.  22),  affording  good  views  to  the  right  of  the  fer- 
tile Oampo  de  Tarragona  and  the  Priorato  Mts.  (p.  182),  and  to  the 
left  of  the  sea  and  promontory  of  Sal6u,  the  N.  side  of  which  we  skirt. 

8  M.  8(d6u,  the  port  of  Reus  (p.  228)  and  a  rival  of  Tarragona. 
A  little  to  the  N.  lies  VUaseca  (p.  237).  On  the  top  of  the  cape  is 
a  watch-tower  (atcUaya),  Farther  on  we  traverse  a  fertile  district, 
with  palms,  carob-trees,  nut-trees,  and  almond-trees.  Two  dry  ramb- 
las  are  crossed. 

12  M.  Carhbriis.  The  church  has  a  lofty  fortress-like  tower,  with 
a  battlemented  passage-way  supported  on  brackets.  —  The  lovely 
plain  is  watered  by  the  Riudecanes,  The  mountains  draw  near  the 
coast.   To  the  left  is  an  old  telegraph-station  ^  farther  on,  dose  to 


AMPOSTA.  23.  Routt.    239 

the  Mt,  are  some  picturesque  ndns.  —  Suddenly  the  scene  changes, 
uid  we  enter  a  treeless  district  overgrown  with  low  palmetto-scrub 
(p,  227).  The  loose  stones  are  here  and  there  piled  up  into  walls  to 
enclose  small  patches  of  tilled  land.  No  signs  |of  life  are  visible, 
eicept  a  few  cottages  on  the  hills.  At  the  end  of  this  waste  (^deapo^ 
hlado')  lies  — 

2OV2H.  Haspitalet,  iriili  sn  old  hospital  for  pilgrims,  the  four 
towers  of  which  are  seen  to  the  left,  near  the  sea.  —  Cultivation  is 
stfll  scant.  The  arid  limestone  soil  produces  little  but  lavender, 
thyme,  dwarf-palms,  junipers,  and  heath;  and  even  these  plants  are 
disflgured  by  the  teeth  of  the  omnivorous  goat  To  the  right  stretches 
a  chain  of  barren  hills,  vrith  the  CasUllo  de  Balagver.  To  the  left 
shimmers  the  white  sand  of  the  sea-shore.  The  oven-like  huts  of  the 
shepherds  recall  the  Orient  —  The  railway  crosses  several  ramblas, 
enclosed  by  low  green  shrubs  and  serving  as  roads. 

8OV2  M.  Aimellaj  a  fishing-village  to  the  left,  with  seyeral  nMat 
(water-wheels).  We  traverse  another  desolate  region,  with  scanty 
patches  of  cultivated  soil,  and  intersect  some  hills.  To  the  W.  is  the 
CaUiUo  dt  Pcrelld;  in  front  is  the  DtUa  of  the  Ebro^  projecting  on 
the  left  far  into  the  sea  and  outlined  by  a  strip  of  white  beach. 
Beyond  it,  to  the  S.,  rises  the  MorUsia  (p.  246). 

441/2  M.  Ampolla,  beautifully  situated  on  the  Oolfo  de  San  Jcrge^ 
which  here  contracts  to  form  the  Puerto  del  Fangal.  A  wide  view  is 
obtained  of  the  Maremma-like  delta  of  the  Ebro,  vdth  its  innumerable 
canals  and  ponds.  To  the  £.  is  the  Lighthoute  of  Fangal  and  to  the 
S.E.  the  lofty  lighthouse  on  the  Cabo  de  Tortosa^  about  16  M..  from 
Amposta.  —  The  train  runs  to  the  S.E.,  skirting  the  margin  of  the 
delta  and  traversing  beautiful  groves  of  olives.  The  underlying  rook 
often  crops  out  through  the  thin  layer  of  mould.  To  the  left  stands 
a  church,  with  a  square,  castle-like  tower. 

46^2  M-  -Amposta,  the  station  for  the  small  town  of  that  name 
(2100  inhab.),  which  lies  about  3  M.  to  the  S.W.,  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  Ebro  and  near  the  beginning  of  its  delta.  The  river  is  not 
yet  -visible  from  the  railway. 

In  order  to  avoid  the  sand-banks  of  the  Ebro,  a  canal  has  been  con* 
strncted  from  Amposta  to  the  port  of  Scm  Carlos  de  la  Rapita,  on  the 
excellent  Puerto  de  loa  Affaqve*  (*sand -banks').  The  river  forks  and  reaches 
the  sea  through  two  channels,  the  Gola  del  Norte  and  the  Gola  del  Swy 
which  enclose  the  island  of  Buda. 

The  train  now  turns  to  the  N.W.  and  ascends  the  valley  of  the 
Ebro.  The  soil  here  is  stony  and  thin,  but  wonders  have  been  worked 
by  artificial  irrigation  and  careful  tillage.  Beyond  a  cutting  we  obtain 
a  grand  view  of  the  Monte  Caro  (2820  ft.)  and  other  mountains  to 
the  W.  of  Tortosa,  at  the  base  of  which  is  spread  a  wide  plain  with 
nSrias  (water-wheels),  palms,  and  olive-groves.  The  rapid  Ebro 
itself  also  comes  into  view. 

62 V2  M.  TortOEa  (Fonda  de  Europe;  Rail.  Restaurant),  a  con- 
sideiable  town,  with  12,500  inhab.,  lies  on  the  Ebro,  which  he" 


240   Roule  23.  TORTOSA. 

emerges  from  its  mountain-fastnesses  and  enters  the  beaatiful  Gam- 
pifia.  Its  situation,  on  the  hills  to  the  £.  of  the  Ebro,  which  are 
riven  by  the  deep  Barraneo  ddRtuUrOy  is  rarely  equalled,  and  it  com- 
mands magnificent  views  of  the  valley,  the  mountains,  and  the 
distant  sea.    The  cathedral  is  its  only  important  sight. 

Under  ttie  Romans  the  town  was  named  JuUa  Augmuta  Dertosa  and 
enjoyed  the  right  of  coinage.  As  the  key  of  the  Ebro^  it  was  long  an 
object  of  contention  between  the  Moors  and  the  Christians.  Louis  the 
Pioas,  son  of  Charlemagne,  besieged  it  in  vain  in  809  and  captured  it  in 
811.  The  Moors  soon  recaptured  it  and  made  it  a  haunt  of  pirates.*  A 
special  crusade  was  proclaimed  against  it  bv  Pope  Eugenius  III.,  and 
Tortosa  was  finally  taken  from  the  Moors  in  1148  by  Ramon  Berenguer  IV., 
aided  by  Knights  Templar,  Pisans,  and  Genoese.  In  the  following  year  the 
Moors  returned  to  the  attack  and  were  beaten  off  only  by  the  heroism  of 
the  women.  In  return  Ramon  Berenguer  invested  the  women  with  the 
red  sash  of  the  order  of  La  Hacha  (axe)  and  permitted  them  henceforth  to 
import  their  clothes  free  of  duty  and  to  precede  the  men  at  marriages. 

The  Cathbdbal  was  originally  built  in  1168-78  by  Bishop  Gau- 
fredo  on  the  site  of  a  mosque  erected  by  'Abderrahman  III.  in  914. 
In  its  present  Gothic  form  it  dates  from  1347,  but  the  exterior  has 
been  grievously  marred  by  baroque  additions.  The  fine  choir-stalls 
are  by  OrUiSbal  de  Salamanea  (1588-93).  The  reja  and  the  pulpits 
also  deserve  attention.  The  sacristy  contains  a  Cuflc  inscription 
relating  to  the  building  of  the  mosque  and  also  a  Moorish  helmet. 
In  the  Capilla  de  Santa  Gandia  are  the  tombs  of  the  first  four  bishops 
(1165-1254).  The  so-called  Aimudm<z,  or  tower,  is  of  Arab  origin. 
The  Chapter  Library  possesses  about  350  MSS. 

A  visit  may  also  be  paid  to  the  Renaissance  Colegio  and  (for  the 
superb  view)  to  the  ruined  CaMillo.  —  The  Alameda,  to  the  S.  of  the 
railway-station,  affords  a  good  view  of  the  town. 

From  Tortosa  to  Valencia,  see  R.  24. 


IV.  VALENCIA  AND  MURCIA. 


24.  From  Tortosa  (Tarragona)  to  Valencia 246 

From  Vinaroz  to  Aleanis  tU  MoreUa.  Peniscola,  316.  — 
Canal  de  CMtelldn,  247.  —  Sagunto,  248.  —  From  Sagunto 
to  Segorb«  and  Teruel)  %i.     • 

25.  Valencia 252 

Ezcnrsionf  from  Valencia:  1.  E]  Grao.  2.  Albufera,  265. 
—  3.  Hanisea,  266.  —4.  Meliana.  6.  Burjasot  and  Cartuja 
de  PortacoBli,  267. 

26.  From  Valencia  to  Carcagente  and  La  Enclna  (Madrid, 
Cordova,  Alicante,  Mnicia) 267 

From  Silla  to  Cvll^ra,  268. 

27.  From  Carcagente  (Valencia)  to  Gandia  and  Dtfnia    .    .  271 

From  Puerto  de  Gandia  to  Aleoy,  272.  —  The  Mongo.  From 
D^nia  to  Jdvea,  273. 

28.  From  Jitiva  to  Alcoy  and  Alicante 274 

29.  From  Madrid  to  Alicante  vil  Alcizar,  Chinchilla,  and 
I^Encina 276 

From  Aranjnez  to  Cuenca.    From  Castillejo  to  Toledo.   La 

Hancha,  276.  —   From  Villena  to  Yecla;  to  Bocairente 

(Alcoy),  279. 
BO.  From  Alicante  to  Mnrcia  via  Elche  and  Alqueria    .    .  282 

From  Albatera-Catral  to  Torrevi^a,  283. 
31.  From  Chinchilla  (Madrid)  to  Murcia  and  Cartagena.    .   284 

Banos   de   Archena,  2c6.   —  Mar  Menor,    290.    —   From 

Cartagena  to  La  Union,  292. 


Valencia. 

The  kingdom  of  Valencia  (el  reino  de  Valencia)^  embracing  the 
three  modem  provinces  of  Caatellon  de  la  Plana,  Valencia^  and  Ali- 
ynte^  covers  an  area  of  883B  sq.  M.  and  contains  1,229,400  inhab- 
itants. It  is  essentially  a  coast-district,  lying  between  the  central 
Spanish  plateau  and  the  Mediterranean  and  extending  from  the 
Ebro  on  the  N.  to  the  Segnra  on  the  S.  The  narrow  littoral  plains, 
watered  by  the  Cenia,  MijareSf  Falancia,  Chiadalaviar  (Turia), 
'f^itar,  Vinaiapd,  and  Segu/ra,  were  originally  under  salt-water  and 
became  dry  land  through  processes  of  upheaval  and  deposits.  The 
Albufera  (fresh  water),  to  the  S.E.  of  Valencia,  and  a  few  small 
^^goons  and  ponds  are  the  sole  relics  of  this  tract  of  sea. 

The  inner  and  mountainous  parts  of  the  kingdom  are  generally 
^Sged,  weatherworn,  and  destitute  of  trees  or  water.  There  are, 
however,  a  few  valleys,  like  that  of  Segorbe,  which  form  oases  of 
cultivation  and  contain  a  few  settlements.  As  the  rivers  emerge 
ttpon  the  plains,  they  are  at  once  taken  possession  of,  drawn  off  into 
oanalg,  and  led  over  the  country  in  thousands  of  small  channels  t'^ 

Babdxkbr'b  Spain.  16 


242  VALENCIA. 

irrigate  fields  and  gardens  or  to  drive  mills  and  factories.  In  spring 
the  water  of  many  rivers  is  collected  in  large  Pantanoty  or  reservoirs, 
formed  by  huge  transverse  dams,  and  is  thus  saved  for  use  in  the 
parched  months  of  summer.  As  in  almost  the  whole  of  £.  and  S. 
Spain,  this  artificial  irrigation  is  rewarded  by  crops  of  exuberant 
fertility.  The  difference  between  irrigated  and  non-irrigated  tracts 
is  almost  like  that  between  oasis  and  desert  The  Valenclan,  indeed, 
prefers  rain  to  artificial  irrigation  (agua  del  cielo  el  mejor  riego^  'the 
water  of  heaven  is  th6  best  irrigation'),  for  he,  like  the  Roman  be- 
fore hiin,  knows  that  the  quality  of  fruit  and  vegetables  suffers 
under  a  wholly  artificial  system  of  watering.  Not  only,  however, 
does  the  rain  fall  here  in  small  quantity  (oomp.  p.  xxxi),  but  what 
does  fall  is  limited  to  a  few  days.  A  heavy  fall  of  rain  or  a  sudden 
melting  of  the  mountain-snows  is  too  apt  to  be  followed  by  a  huge 
'spate'  (avenida)j  which  rushes  down  towards  the  valley,  devastating 
the  banks  of  the  river  in  its  course  and  tinging  the  sea  at  its  mouth 
with  a  muddy  yellow  hue  that  vanishes  almost  as  rapidly  as  it  appears. 

The  greater  part  of 'the  ^Buertas'  is  devoted  to  the  growing  of 
grain,  while  rice  is  raised  on  the  flat  banks  of  the  Albufera  and  the 
Jucar.  The  immense  fields  of  wheat,  broken  here  and  there  by 
small  groves  of  almond,  apricot,  mulberry,  or  carob  trees,  present  a 
somewhat  monotonous  picture,  differing  considerably  from  the  usual 
highly  coloured  descriptions  of  the  Huerta  of  Valencia.  Even  the 
orange-groves,  with  their  stiff  rows  of  trees,  can  hardly  be. called 
particularly  attractive  except  where,  as  at  Alcira  and  Carcagente, 
they  rise  in  terraces  one  above  another  and  are  neighboured  by  a 
grove  of  palms. 

The  density  of  population  in  the  Huerta  of  Valencia  necessitates 
an  intensive  system  of  agriculture,  rendered  possible  only  by  the 
application  of  guano  and  other  strong  fertilizers.  The  rotation  of 
crops  includes  the  ordinary  cereals,  vegetables,  and  foddei-plants. 
Of  lucerne  (alfalfa)  the  skilful  husbandman  may  reap  14-17  crops 
in  a  single  year.  The  wheat  sown  near  the  Albufera  in  November 
is  ready  for  cutting  in  June.  The  soil  Is  then  broken  up,  planted 
with  rice,  and  inundated.  After  the  rice  is  garnered,  root  or  green 
crops  are  sown. 

Valencia  a  terra  de  JHos      Valencia  is  a  land  of  God, 

Pw$  oftr  trigo  y  hoi  arroz.    Rice  grows  to  day  where  yesterday  was  corn. 

In  winter,  ftom  the  middle  of  December  to  the  middle  of  Feb- 
ruary, large  tracts  are  white  as  snow  with  the  delicate  blossoms  of 
the  Bellis  Annua  (annual  daisy).  Later,  all  is  brilliant  with  the  glow- 
ing red  of  the  Adonis  Cupaniana,  a  member  of  the  order  of  Ranun- 
culacesB.  The  famous  oranges  (naranjoa)  of  Valencia  are  ready  for 
export  in  March.  Othet  notable  products  are  the  stemless  raisins 
(pasas  de  Valencia),  the  wines  of  Alicante,  and  the  palms  of  Elche. 

The  Mantjpacutjbes  of  Valencia  are  of  little  importance.  Its 
textile  fabrics  were  once  celebrated,  but  have  long  been  unable  to 


VALENCIA.  243 

fompete  with  the  silks  of  France  and  the  woollens  of  Saxony.  The 
making  of  paper,  mainly  for  cigarettes,  flourishes  at  Alcoy.  Excel- 
lent azulejos  (tiles)  are  made  at  ManiseB  (p.  266)  and  mosaics  at 
Meliana  (p.  267).  The  fans  and'gloYCfl  of  Valencia  are  popular 
throughout  Spain. 

The  Inhabitants  of  Valencia  show  a  prevailing  Moorish  type 
and  are  seldom  handsome.  They  are  animated  in  manner  and  at 
once  good-natured  and  revengeful  in  disposition.  To  their  Moor- 
ish forefathers  they  owe  their  industrious  hahits  and  their  skill 
in  irrigation.  Its  neighhours  say  of  Valencia,  with  some  malioe  and 
much  exaggeration,  that  la  came  es  yer&a,  la  yerba  agua,  el  Kombre 
mujer^  la  mtfjer  nada,  and  they  name  it  un  parabo  habitado  por  de- 
mdnio9.  The  language  is  the  Limousin  dialect  in  a  somewhat  softer 
form  than  in  Catalonia  (p.  186).  The  native  dress,  becoming  daily 
more  rare,  consists  of  hempen  sandals  (eapardenoi),  gaiters,  wide 
linen  drawers  (tahrahuelU),  red  sashes  (fajaa),  a  short  velvet  jacket 
(ehaleeo),  and  a  head-cloth  (redeeilla)  somewhat  recalling  the  Arab 
turban.  The  women  generally  wear  the  so-called  *wheel-plns^ 
(aulla  de  rodete)  in  their  hair,  sometimes  a  high  comh  (pkUela)  or 
the  three-cornered  pieza  or  lliue. 

Valencia  bears  distinct  traces  of  its  successive  occupation  by 
Iberians,  Greeks,  Carthaginians,  Romans,  Visigoths,  and  Arabs. 
The  Moors  overran  it  in  712.  The  Cid  (p.  26)  reconquered  it  in 
1095,  but  it  reverted  to  the  Moors  after  his  death  (1099).  When 
James  I.  of  Aragon  conquered  Valencia  in  1238,  the  population 
consisted  partly  of  full-blooded  Moors  and  partly  of  the  mixed  race 
of  so-called  Motarab  Christians,  who  had  adopted  Arab  customs  and 
the  Arabic  language  to  such  a  degree,  that  even  the  Bible  had  to  be 
translated  into  Arabic  for  their  use.  In  1319  Valencia  was  per- 
manently united  with  Aragon.  In  1609  no  fewer  than  200,000 
Moriteoes,  or  Moors  who  nominally  professed  Christianity,  were 
driven  from  the  country.  The  kingdom  suffered  considerably  in  the 
War  of  the  Spanish  Succession,  in  which  it  stood  on  the  side  of  the 
Hapsburgs.  In  1812  Suchet  captured  Sagunto,  the  *Key  of  Valencia*, 
and  occupied  the  country  and  its  capital. 


Murcia. 


When  Spain  was  divided  into  its  modem  provinces  (1833),  the 
kingdom  of  Murcia  had  to  cede  parts  of  its  S.W.  territory  to  Almeria 
and  part  of  its  N.E.  territory  to  Alicante,  so  that  it  now  consists 
solely  of  the  provinces  of  Murcia  and  AlbaeeUj  with  an  area  of 
10,190  sq.  M.  and  a  population  of  720,500.  Its  coast-line  extends 
from  the  Torre  de  la  Boradada  (Hower  of  the  pierced'),  to  the  N.  of 
the  Mar  Menor,  to  a  point  beyond  the  seaport  of  Aguilas.  Prom  the 
latter  point  its  W.  boundary  runs  to  the  N.W.  and  N.  by  the  Cabeza 

16* 


244  MUROIA. 

de  la  J  ma  and  the  Mxula  de  Montteviche  (4920  ft.)  to  the  Sagra  Sierra 
(ca.  7870  ft.)  and  onwards  into  the  central  Spanish  plateau,  to  which 
the  whole  of  the  piovince  of  Albacete  belongs. 

Muicia  possesses  only  one  important  river,  the  Sfgiira,  which, 
with  its  large  tributary  the  Mundo,  descends  from  the  Sierra  de  Air- 
eard%,  the  Color  del  Mvndoj  and  the  Sagra  Sierra.  The  'reino  sere- 
ni8imo\  the  brightest  bat  at  the  same  time  one  of  the  hottest  regions 
in  £urope,  owes  the  scantiness  of  its  water-supply  to  its  situation 
in  the  S.E.  comer  of  the  Iberian  peninsula,  where  it  is  swept,  not 
like  the  neighbouring  Andalusia ,  by  the  moist  W.  wind  from  the 
Atlantic,  but  by  the  parching  breatiti  of  the  Sahara,  scarcely  alle- 
viated by  its  short  passage  over  the  Mediterranean.  The  Leveche 
(the  Etjurua  of  the  ancients),  a  S.  wind  resembling  the  scirocco, 
sometimes  covers  the  entire  vegetable  world  with  a  thick  coat  of 
dust  within  a  few  minutes.  Men  and  animals  overtaken  by  it  sink 
exhausted  to  the  ground,  and  birds  often  fall  dead  from  the  sky. 
The  purity  of  the  summer-air  is  defiled  by  clouds  of  dust  The  Calina, 
a  kind  of  heat -haze,  gradually  steals  over  the  whole  face  of  the 
heavens.  Towards  the  middle  of  July  the  horizon  is  girdled  with  a 
narrow  strip  of  a  bluish-red  or  brownish  colour,  which  waxes  as  the 
heat  increases.  In  August  the  upper  part  of  the  firmament  also  as- 
sumes a  leaden-gray  hue,  across  which  the  light  of  the  stars  glimmers 
feebly.  The  rising  sun  and  moon  shine  red  through  this  haze ;  moun- 
tains, trees,  and  buildings  loom  through  it  like  spectres.  Not  till  to- 
wards the  close  of  September  does  the  calina  disappear. 

The  abnormal  climate  (comp.  also  p.  2S7)  explains  the  other 
remarkable  phenomena  of  this  strange  land.  Among  these  are  the 
treeless  mountains,  from  which  no  water  descends  to  the  lowlands ; 
the  sudden  avenidas  (p.  242)  or  floods,  occasioned  by  heavy  falls  of 
rain  at  the  sources  of  the  rivers ;  and  the  extensive  despohlados^  or 
deserts  of  hill,  moor,  and  salt-marsh,  where  nothing  grows  except 
esparto  grass  and  saltwort.  The  few  evergreen  plants  are  used  by 
the  inhabitants  as  fuel,  the  only  alternative  being  the  dried  dung  of 
the  domestic  animals. 

The  bulk  of  the  country  is  occupied  by  the  despoblados.  Along 
with  them  may  be  mentioned  the  so-called  Secanos,  or  'dry  lands', 
where  the  want  of  rain  in  March,  the  ^key  of  the  year',  often  destroys 
the  entire  harvest.  The  February  rains  are  too  early;  those  of  April 
find  the  sprouting  grain  already  dried  up  and  the  vines  scorched. 

The  whole  agricultural  wealth  of  the  country  is  concentrated  in 
the  Tierraa  de  Regadio^  or  irrigated  districts.  It  is  in  the  huertas  of 
Murcia,  Totana,  and  Lorca  alone  that  the  capacity  of  the  soil  of  S. 
Spain  can  be  fully  appreciated.  While  the  plateau  of  Albacete  pro- 
duces little  but  grain,  wine,  and  olives,  the  beautiful  huerta  of  Murcia 
is  clothed  with  a  forest  of  orange- trees,  lemon-trees,  and  date-palms. 
The  valley  of  the  Segura  is  also  the  chief  centre  for  the  culture  of 
''owers  and  vegetables. 


MURCIA.  245 

Equally  important  sources  of  wealth  are  mining  and  the-  making 
of  salt  and  soda  (from  the  Hcdogeton  sativus).  The  almost  inexhaust- 
ible stores  of  lead  and  silver  were  already  exploited  by  the  Phosni- 
cians,  Carthaginians,  and  Romans.  The  export  of  these  metals  forms 
a  large  part  of  the  trade  of  Cartagena  and  is  practically  the  only 
raison  d'Hre  of  Forman^  Mazarron^  AffuilaSj  and  the  other  small 
harbours  on  this  difficult  coast.  A  large  part  of  the  mountains  are 
absolutely  honeycombed  by  mines,  and  the  modem  minero  is  con- 
stantly stumbling  on  the  round  shafts  of  the  PhoBuicians  and  the 
square  shafts  of  the  Moors.  The  Romans  called  the  adits  cmiieuli ; 
the  Iberians  called  them  arrugia^  and  the  shafts  agangas  or  agoga9. 
In  spite  of  the  imperfeot  methods  of  ancient  mining,  the  yield  of 
the  mines  was  so  great  as  to  give  rise  to  the  story  that  the  Phoeni- 
cians made  their  anchors  of  silver,  when  the  ships  were  so  heavily 
loaded  as  to  be  unable  to  take  any  more  cargo  on  board. 

Resembling  N.  Africa  in  climate,  vegetation,  and  the  general 
conditions  of  existence,  Murcia  has  been  from  time  immemorial  a 
favourite  goal  of  Oriental  immigration ;  and  its  present  population, 
itt  spite  of  the  expulsion  of  the  Moris coes  (p.  243),  still  bears  a 
thoroughly  African  stamp.  The  industry  of  the  whilom  Moorish  im- 
migrants U  attested  by  their  wonderful  feats  of  hydraulic  engineer- 
ing, among  which  may  be  mentioned  the  canal,  long  since  disused, 
that  collected  the' waters  of  the  mountain -torrents  of  the  Sagra 
Sierra  and  conveyed  them  to  the  Sangonera  and  to  Lorca.  The  suc- 
cessors of  those  praiseworthy  labourers  offer  a  much  less  satisfactory 
picture.  Sunk  in  Oriental  indolence,  they  seem  to  care  for  nothing 
except  sleep,  the  eating  of  pimienta  (Spanish  pepper;  capsicum 
annuum)j  and  smoking,  while  they  have,  moreover,  the  reputation 
of  being  fierce  and  cruel.  Murcia  is  the  Spanish  Bceotia  and  lags 
behind  the  other  provinces  of  the  peninsula.  Hence  its  neighbours 
say  of  it  that  Adam,  on  his  return  to  earth,  found  here  his  old  home 
in  unchanged  condition,  and  that  while  the  sky  and  the  soil  are 
good,  all  that  lies  between  is  evil  (el  cieh  y  suelo  es  buenOj  el  enire- 
9uelo  malo). 

24.  From  Tortosa  (Tarragona)  to  Valencia, 

119  M.  Railway  (two  tbrough-lrains  daily)  in  6-6V2  liM.  (fares  19  p. 
90,  12p.  70,  9  p.  40  c).  There  is  also  a  local  train  between  CatUilon 
(P*  347)  and  Valencia.  There  are  railway-restaurants  at  Tortosa^  Cattellon^ 
SaguntOf  and  Valencia;  and  cakes,  oranges,  and  hard-boiled  eggs  are  often 
offered  for  sale  at  other  stations.  In  March  the  oranges  are  sold  in  clusters 
(I'amiiietes)^  still  attached  to  the  branch  on  which  they  grew. 

Tortosaf  see  p.  239.  —  The  train  leaves  the  charming  Alameda 
to  the  left  and  crosses  the  Ebro  by  a  lofty  iron  bridge.  Fine  views 
in  all  directions.  We  then  traverse  a  fertile  tract  between  Monte 
Salio  on  the  left  and  the  huge  Monte  Caro  on  the  right.  Beyond  the 
OarameUa  we  pass  through  dense  groves  of  olives,  —  9  M,  8ant' 


246   Route  24.  PENISCOLA.  From  Tortosa 

Barbara.  The  Valeucian  type  of  costume  may  be  seen  here.  Farther 
on  the  scenery  becomes  monotonous  and  the  culture  sparse. 

18  M.  Uldeconaj  the  last  Catalan  town,  at  the  W.  foot  of  the 
MorUsia  (2500  ft),  has  5400  inhab.  and  a  picturesque  octagonal 
tower.  —  The  train  crosses  the  Ctnid  and  enters  Valencia.  To  the 
right  is  the  square  tower  of  a  castle.  The  Mediterranean  becomes 
visible  to  the  left,  and  we  obtain  a  last  view  (right)  of  the  mountain 
chain  of  Tortosa.  We  cross  the  rambta  of  the  Cerbol. 

27  V2  M.  Vinair^t,  the  first  place  in  the  province  of  CasUUdn  de 
la  Flanay  is  a  fishing  and  farming  town  with  9400  inhab.  and  a 
few  manufactories.  The  soil  is  irrigated  mainly  by  water-wheels. 

About  93  H.  to  the  X.W.  of  Vinardz,  high  up  among  the  mountains 
and  perched  on  a  conical  hill  rising  in  the  midst  of  a  mountain-basin, 
is  Horella,  an  old  fortress  protecting  the  frontiers  of  Valencia  against 
Aragon.  It  is  the  Roman  Ccutra  uElia  and  now  contains  3600  inhabitants. 
In  the  First  Garlist  War  it  played  a  part  of  some  importance,  having 
been  stormed  by  Cabrera  in  183i8  and  recaptured  by  Espartero  in  1840. 
The  most  interesting  buildings  are  the  'Torre  de  Zeloquia  and  the  Gothic 
church  of  Santa  Maria  la  Mayor.  The  latter,  dating  from  1317,  has  its  choir 
raised  upon  pillars  and  arches,  to  which  the  clergy  ascend  by  a  winding 
staircase.  In  the  choir  is  a  picture  by  Bibalta,  representing  James  I.  with 
a  piece  of  the  True  Cross.  Every  sixth  year,  on  the  first  Sat.  in  May, 
the  festival  of  the  'Virgen  de  Vallibona'  is  celebrated  by  a  great  proces- 
sion to  her  ermita.  —  From  Morella  a  road  leads  to  (52  M.)  Alcafiit  (p.  181). 

The  railway  follows  the  coast-plain  and  crosses  the  Rio  Seco  (or 
Ccdig).  —  31  M.  BenieaHd,  a  town  of  7900  inhab.,  the  red  wine  of 
which  is  largely  exported  to  Bordeaux.  The  handsome  church  has 
an  octangular  tower  and  a  cupola  covered  with  dark-blue  azulejos, 
such  as  the  visitor  to  Valencia  will  soon  become  familiar  with.  There 
is  also  an  old  castle  here.  —  Farther  on  we  have  a  view,  to  the  left, 
of  Pefiiscolaj  which  is  about  41/2  M.  by  road  from  Beuicarl6. 

PefiigcoU,  the  ^Gibraltar  of  Valencia',  is  a  small  fortified  town  (2800 
inhab.),  situated  on  a  rocky  islet,  220  ft.  high  and  connected  with  the 
mainland  by  a  narrow  sandy  isthmus.  James  I.,  who  took  the  fortress 
from  the  Moors  in  1233,  presented  it  to  the  Knights  Templar;  it  after- 
wards came  into  the  hands  of  the  Order  of  Montesa  (p.  270),  and  in  1429 
it  reverted  to  the  crown.  The  French  captured  it  in  1811.  Pope  Bene- 
dict XIII.  (p.  170),  after  the  Council  of  Constance  had  declared  him  schis- 
matic, took  refuge  here  (1415-23)^  and  a  curious  cave  in  the  rock,  with  a 
second  opening  through  which  the  sea-water  is  expelled  in  clouds  of  foam, 
is  named  after  him  El  Bu/addr  de  Papa  Luna. 

The  railway  now  leaves  the  coast  and  ascends  a  valley  between 
the  Monies  de  Irta  on  the  E.  and  the  Atalayas  de  Alcald  on  the  W. 
The  hills,  which  are  of  calcareous  formation,  are  barren  and  un- 
attractive. Here  and  there  they  bear  a  tower  or  a  castle.  Farther  on 
the  valley  turns  to  the  S.  and  the  scenery  improves. 

45  M.  Alcald  de  CfUsbert^  with  a  fine  open-work  church-tower.  — 
The  railway  descends  rapidly.  To  the  left,  beyond  a  curve,  we  sud- 
denly obtain  a  fine  view  of  the  sea.  In  the  distance,  to  the  right, 
appear  some  of  the  so-called  Muelas  ('molars',  'mill-stones'),  a 
peculiar  kind  of  rocky  hill  characteristic  of  this  coast.  The  most 
prominent  is  the  Pena  Oolosa  (p.  247),   easily  recognisable  by 


to  Valencia.     CASTELLON  DE  LA  PLANA.    24.  -Route.   247 

its  yertioal  S.  face.    On  regaining  the  coast-plain,  we  cross  the 
Segarra,  The  Mediterranean  once  more  stretches  to  the  left. 

54^2  M.  TorrebUmca  is  prettily  situated  1-2  M.  from  the  sea, 
and  contains  tower-like  houses.  To  the  left  are  the  marshy  E$tanqiie 
dt  AlbaUU,  the  Torre  la  8aly  and  (farther  on)  the  cape  and  village  of 
Oropesa.  —  Beyond  Torrehlanca  we  reach  the  orange-growing  dis- 
trict. To  the  right  is  the  hilly  Desietto  dc  las  Palmas.  We  penetrate 
a  tunnel  and  several  deep  cuttings.  To  the  S.  are  the  mountains  of 
Yalencia,  extending  to  the  Mong6.  The  railway  skirts  the  hills. 

68  M.  BenkoBfrn^  in  a  charming  situation.  The  sea  is  fully 
V2  M.  distant,  but  the  hills  rise  close  by  to  the  W.  and  shut  in  the 
peaceful  little  place  with  its  orange-groves  and  palms.  The  hand- 
some church,  with  its  tiled  cupola,  contains  some  good  paintings  by 
CamariSn,  —  The  railway  continues  to  skirt  the  hills.  The  soil 
becomes  more  and  more  fertile.   Fine  retrospect  of  Beuicasfm. 

77  M.  Caitell^n  de  la  Plana  (Fonda  de  Espana,  Fonda  del  Fer- 
rocarrily  both  indifferent;  Rail.  Restaurant),  the  capital  of  a  pro- 
vince, with  24,300  inhab.,  lies  about  4  M.  from  the  sea,  in  a  wqH 
watered  plain,  near  the  mouth  of  the  valley  of  Luceua.  The  town 
coijtains  a  theatre,  a  bull-ring,  aud  an  interesting  bell-tower  (Torre 
de  las  Campanas),  150  ft.  high.  The  Parish  Church  contains  an  As- 
sumption by  the  Italian  painter  Carlo  Maratta,  and  a  work  by  Ri- 
hatta,  who  waa  born  here  in  1561.  —  Gastellon  has  the  affix  ^of  the 
plain',  because  the  old  town  lay  on  the  hill,  1^2'^  ^^  ^o  the  N.,  and 
James  I.  transferred  it  to  its  present  site  in  1251.  Near  the  old 
town  lies  the  ErrrUta  de  Santa  Maria  Magdalena,  to  which  a  proces- 
sion is  made  on  the  third  Sun.  in  Lent.  —  Gastellon  is  a  good  start- 
iug-point  for  excursions  in  the  Sierra  de  Espadan  and  the  Sierra  de 
Etpinas,  both  to  the  N.  of  Segorbe  (p.  261),  and  via  Lucena  to  the 
Pena  Golosa  (6%0  ft.). 

Beyond  Gastellon  the  railway  traverses  a  stony  desert  and  then 
enters  the  huerta  of  Villaneal,  which  is  watered  by  the  Mijares  and 
affords  an  admirable  example  of  this  style  of  scenery.  After  cross- 
ing the  river  (to  the  right,  the  road-bridge,  with  its  13  arches)  and 
the  Gastellon  Canal,  the  train  runs  through  a  series  of  orange-groves. 
80  M.  Villarreal,  a  town  of  11,400  inhab.,  beautifully  situated 
among  orftuge-groves,  topped  here  and  there  by  solitary  palms.  The 
watei-pitchers  of  the  women  resemble  those  of  classic  times,  and  the 
popular  types  seen  here  are  full  of  interest. 

Villarreal  is  the  best  point  from  which  to  visit  the  Canal  de  Caatel- 
lon,  a  magnificent  piece  of  Moorish  engineering,  which  has  served  the 
purposes  of  irrigation  for  six  long  centnries.  The  water  is  drawn  from 
the  Mijares,  above  the  bridge  mentioned  above,  and  is  at  first  collected 
in  a  large  basin.  After  a  subterranean  course  of  about  !/«  ^-  i^  reaches 
a  second  basin  on  the  Rambla  de  las  Viuda$y  and  It  is  conducted  hence, 
below  the  rambla,  to  a  third  basin,  by  a  culvert  160  yds.  long  and  abou* 
5  ft.  wide.  The  force  and  speed  of  the  current  are  such  th-vt  large  atones 
thrown  in  above  the  opening  of  this  culvert  re  appear  at  the  lower  end 
almost  instantaneously.  The  culvert  is  in  a  curved  form,  and  its  two  ex- 
tremities are  only  105  yds.  apart.    Farther  on  the  canal  runs  underground 


248   Route  24.  SAGUNTO.  From  Tortosa 

(for  another  >/«  ^O  ^^^  overground  to  the  so-called  Pariidor^  a  large  basin 
constructed  in  the  18th  cent,  and  provided  with  three  sluices.  One  of 
these  admits  the  water  to  the  Canal  de  Almazora,  another  to  the  Canal  de 
Cattelldn^  while  the  third  lets  off  the  overflow  into  the  river.  In  modern 
times  the  canal  has  been  carried  about  IV4  M.  beyond  the  Partidor,  through 
vast  strata  of  conglomerate.  —  Since  1818  the  Canal  de  Castelldn  has  been 
under  a  Grimio  de  Labradores^  consisting  of  24  peasants  who  decide  all 
questions  of  management  ad  distribution. 

The  waters  of  tbe  Mijares  are  disseminated  thronghout  the  plain 
as  far  as  (83  M.)  Burriana  (Brit,  vice-consul).  Here  and  at  (87  M.) 
NuUt  the  Pefia  Golosa  (p.  247)  is  seen  to  the  N.W.  The  walls  of  the 
little  town  of  Nules  (4200  inhab.)  are  furnished  with  cubos  (p.  32). 
To  the  "W.  we  see  the  Sierra  de  Espaddn^  with  the  Alto  de  la  Pastora, 
the  MoncayOj  and  the  Pico  de  la  Eapiia  (p.  251).  —  About  2V2  M. 
to  the  N.W.  of  Nules  (omnibus)  are  the  thermal  springs  (86-110** 
Fahr.)  of  Villaoieja,  frequented  yearly  by  about  1000  visitors. 

92  M.  Chilche9,  said  to  be  of  Roman  origin,  was  fortified  by  the 
Moors.  —  The  railway  leaves  the  plain  and  enters  the  hill-district  of 
(96  M.)  Almenara  (Arabic  at  Jtfincr,  p.  xxxvlii),  with  its  important 
Castillo  (right),  formerly  the  key  of  the  Moorish  kingdom  of  Valen- 
cia. Don  Jaime  I.  defeated  the  Moors  here  in  1238  and  was  thus 
able  to  overrun  the  country.  The  battlefield  is  marked  by  a  chapel. 
Near  it  is  a  large  estciblecimiento  for  rice- growing.  The  train  enters 
the  province  of  Valencia.  —  97^2  M.  Lot  Valles,  the  station  for  the 
villages  of  Ctmrtell,  Faurd,  Benlfa!r6,  Benavites,  and  Santa  Coloma^ 
which  lie  scattered  about  the  fertile  corn-growing  plain.  —  A  little 
farther  on  we  cross  the  Palancia,  which  in  summer  is  merely  a  dry 
channel,  and  reach  (101  M.)  Sagunto,  the  castle-crowned  hill  of 
which  has  long  been  conspicuous. 


Sag^nntOt  —  There  are  poor  Refreshment  Rooms  at  the  station,  and 
a  small  inn,  the  Farador  de  San  Joaquin^  with  two  beds.  It  is,  however, 
advisable  to  avoid  sleeping  here  and  to  visit  the  interesting  little  town 
from  Valencia  (railway  in  V*"!*/*  l^""-)- 

Guide  to  the  town  and  castle  1-2  p.  (desirable).  —  The  key  of  the 
Theatre  is  obtained  at  the  Alcaldfa.  Permission  to  visit  the  CattUlo  must 
be  obtained  in  the  town  from  the  Gobernador;  the  order  is  given  up  at 
the  entrance  to  the  fortress  and  a  soldier  is  assigned  as  guide  (1  p.)- 
Sketching  is  not  allowed  in  the  fortress.  —  A  flying  visit  of  2-3  hrs.  is 
enough  for  a  superficial  glance  at  the  sights. 

SaguntOj  a  small  town  with  6200  inhab. ,  was  long  known  by  its 
Moorish  name  of  Murvied/ro  (see  p.  249)  but  reverted  to  the  more 
classical  form  in  1877.  It  lies  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Palancia  and 
at  the  foot  of  a  S.E.  spur  (668  ft.)  of  the  Penas  de  Pajarito^  which 
projects  into  the  coast-plain  of  Valencia  and  rises  precipitously  on 
three  of  its  sides.  The  walls  and  towers  that  skirt  the  slope  and 
crown  the  ridge  mark  the  site  of  the  ancient  Saguntum,  an  Iberian 
town  which  is  famous  for  its  heroic  but  unavailing  resistance  to 
Hannibal  in  B.  0.  219,  before  the  beginning  of  the  Second  Punic 
War.  Part  of  its  Inhabitants  were  Greeks,  whose  name  for  it  was 
^akynthos.  The  waJls  were  strengthened  hy  Marshal  Suchet  in  1812. 


to  Valencia.  SAGUNTO.  24.  Route. 

In  order  to  check  the  spread  of  the  CartbMinian  power  in  SDain,  the 
BomaiiB  made  an  alliance  with  Saenntom  and  Bmporlse  (p.  18B)  and  at 
the  same  time  exacted  an  undertaking  from  the  Carthaginian  leader  Heu- 
drtibat^  that  he  ahould  not  cross  the  Ebro.  ffatmibai,  however,  the  youth- 
ful son  of  Hamilcar  and  successor  of  Hasdrubal,  recognieed  the  inevlt- 
ableneas  ot  a  second  collision  between  the  Romans  and  the  Carthaginians. 
He  therefore  lent  his  aid  to  the  Turboletes  in  their  strife  with  Saguntaiu, 
and  finally  himself  advanced  to  besiege  the  wealthy  emporium.  The  at- 
tack was  launched  from  the  W.  side.  The  Sagnntines  sallied  out  again 
and  again  and  drove  back  the  Carthaginian  troops.  Hannibal  himself  was 
wooaded.  The  assailants  plied  the  battering-ram,  and  the  defendants 
retorted  with  the  ^phalarica',  a  formidable  missile  shod  with  iron  and 
wrapped  in  flaming  pitch  and  tow.  The  Carthaginians  finally  entered  the 
town  by  a  breach  in  the  walls,  but  the  inhabitants,  like  the  modern 
Spaniards  t  showed  astonishing  obstinacy  in  street-warfare  and  at  last 
racceeded  in  expelling  the  intruders.  In  the  meantime  an  embassy  had 
arrived  from  Rome,  but  Hannibal  referred  its  members  to  the  Gerousia  at 
Carttage.  The  dtisens  built  a  new  wall  behind  that  whioh  had  been 
destroyed.  When  this  in  turn  was  shattered,  they  bailt  a  third  and  a 
fourth  wall  across  the  narrow  neck  of  the  hill.  At  last,  in  the  eighth  month 
of  the  siege,  Hannibal  captured  the  citadel  as  well  as  the  city.  Host  of 
the  defenders  perished,  either  in  hand-to-hand  combat  with  the  invaders 
or  by  a  voluntary  death  in  the  flames  of  the  burning  city.  Hannibal  sent 
most  of  his  enormous  booty  to  Carthage,  where  it  inflamed  the  minds 
even  of  those  who  had  hitherto  been  opposed  to  the  war. 

In  B.C.  214  the  Romans  recaptured  Saguntam,  and  after  the  conclusion 
of  peace  (B.  C.  201)  they  rebuilt  the  city.  It  never  regained  its  former  im- 
poi^nce,  but  the  remidns  of  its  theatre,  circus,  and  other  buildings  show 
that  the  new  Roman  city  was  of  considerable  magnificence.  It  possessed 
its  own  mint,  and  its  celebrated  potteries  produced  the  beautiful  ^Calioes 
Saguntini\ 

To  the  Moors,  who  were  temporarily  driven  out  by  the  Cid  (p.  26) 
in  1099,  Saguntum  was  known  only  as  Murbiter  (Mnrviedro^  i.e.  'muri 
veteres%  or  old  walls).  Its  remains  served  them  and  their  successors  simply 
as  a  quarry.  Even  at  the  beginning  of  the  17tb  cent,  the  Aragonese  historian 
and  poet  Arffensola  complains :  — 

*Con  mdrmoles  de  nobUt  in$cripd0nes, 
Teatro  un  tiempo  y  aras,  en  Bagunto 
Fabrican  hoy  UOtemat  y  mesones". 
*With  marbles  bearing  dignified  inscriptions,  formerly  the  theatre  and 
altars,  they  now  build  in  Sagunto  taverns  and  pot-houses'. 

From  the  railway-station,  which  lies  at  the  E.  end  of  the  town, 
the  Calle  del  Mar  leads  towards  the  W.  It  is  continued  by  the  Galle 
Real,  whic'h  passes  the  Olorieta  and  ends  at  the  Ptaza  de  San  Fran- 
cisco (PI.  C,  2).  Hence  we  ascend  to  the  left,  crossing  the  Plaza  del 
Mercado,  to  the  Ptaza  de  Santa  Maria^  with  the  Gothic  parish-church 
of  Santa  Mabia  (PI.  C,  2).  In  front  of  the  N.  portal  are  some  stones 
bearing  Roman  (?)  inscriptions;  the  portal  itself  is  adorned  with 
sculpture  and  has  a  bronze-mounted  door.  The  windows  are  of 
alabaster.  On  the  gilded  high-altar  stands  a  mother-of-pearl  cross. 
—  A  couple  of  ancient  columns  may  be  seen  in  a  house  on  the  E. 
side  of  the  plaza. 

We  continue  to  ascend,  passing  an  old  tower,  and  reach  the 
ruins  of  the  ancient  Theatre  (PI.  C,  3,  4),  which  lies  about  halfway 
up  the  castle-hill  and  is  one  of  the  best-preserved  Roman  mon- 
uments of  its  kind. 

In  fit)nt  is  the  stage  or  scena,  with  the  buildings  adjoining  it  at  the 
back  and  sides.    The  remains  include  the  foundations  of  the  stage  itself, 


250   Route  24.  SAGUNTO.  From  Tortosa 

which  is  unusually  shallow  (ca.  8Vs  ft-)*  And  a  couple  of  fine  vaults  in 
the  side-huilding  to  the  E.  Some  inscribed  stones  are  immured  in  ihe 
latter.  The  auditorium  (thecUrum  or  eavea)^  which  is  about  165  ft.  in 
diameter,  adapts  itself,  as  in  almost  all  ancient  theatres,  to  the  natural 
configuration  of  the  hill.  The  central  section  of  the  22  concentric  tiers  of 
seats  is  hewn  out  of  the  living  rock.  The  14  lower  rows  are  separated 
from  the  upper  by  the  broad  praednetio.  The  auditorium  is  divided  into 
wedges  (cunei)  by  three  flights  of  steps  ascending  from  the  bottom  to  the 
top,  while  there  are  six  additional  flights  in  the  upper  portion.  The  lowest 
two  tiers  of  seats  are  wider  and  lower  than  the  others,  and  probably  served 
as  platforms  for  the  chairs  of  honour  of  the  senators  and  magistrates. 
Other  chairs  of  the  same  kind  were  doubtless  placed  in  the  semicircular 
orchestra,  in  the  space  occupied  by  the  chorus  in  Greek  thea^s.  Above 
the  uppermost  tier  of  seats  runs  a  passage,  about  10 ft.  in  width  and 
protected  by  a  parapet  about  8  ft.  high.  Six  doors  here  correspond  to  the 
above-mentioned  flights  of  steps  and  probably  served  as  entrances  for  the 
occupants  of  the  upper  seats,  while  the  more  important  spectators  entered 
from  below.  It  is  believed  that  there  were  formerly  other  four  rows  of 
seats  above  the  corridor,  and  that  the  full  seating  capacity  of  the  theatre 
was  about  8000.  —  A  fine  view  is  obtained  from  the  theatre,  and  the 
glimpse  of  the  cypresses  on  the  Galvario  obtained  through  the  vaulted 
arches  to  the  £.  is  especially  attractive. 

The  road  ascends  in  windings  from  the  theatre  to  the  castle.  It 
affords  fine  views  of  the  cactus-clad  rocky  slopes,  the  massive  town 
walls  with  their  buttresses ,  the  theatre,  the  city,  the  valley  of  the 
Palancia,  and  the  extensive  coast-plain  to  the  E. 

On  reaching  the  CaBtillo  (PI.  A-E,  3,  4),  we  first  find  ourselves 
in  the  Plata  del  Oohemador  (PI.  B,  4),  occupying  the  depression 
between  the  E.  andW.  heights.  We  then  turn  to  the  W,  to  the  Ea- 
ter^ de  San  Pedro  (PI.  A,  3),  which  defends  the  S.  slope,  and  thence 
ascend  steeply  to  the  Castillo  db  San  Fernando  or  db  Sagunto, 
the  highest  point  of  which  is  called  Palo  de  la  Bandera  (fiag-staff). 
The  Arab  cistern  in  the  Plaza  del  Dos  de  Mayo  contains  excellent 
water.  The  extensive  view  includes  the  plain  of  Valencia  from 
Benicasim  (p.  247)  to  the  Mong6  (p.  273)  and  the  mountains  of 
Alicante;  the.  domes  of  Valencia  are  very  distinct;  to  the  N.W.  is 
the  upper  valley  of  the  Palancia  (p.  261). 

We  return  to  the  Plaza  del  Gobernador,  from  the  S.  side  of 
which  we  look  down  into  the  cactus-clad  abyss  below,  and  then 
ascend  to  the  E.  summit,  crowned  by  the  ruined  *Ciudadela  sb  So- 
Loauio  or  db  Almbnara  (p.  248).  Remains  of  tesselated  pavements, 
immured  capitals,  and  the  like  may  be  noticed  here.  The  view  of  the 
coast,  city,  and  sea  is  superb.  The  Roman  remains  in  the  Pla&a  del 
Eco  (echo ;  PI.  D,  4)  are  supposed  to  be  those  of  a  temple. 

We  leave  the  fortress  by  the  way  we  entered  it  and  descend  past 
the  theatre  to  the  Plaza  de  Santa  Maria  (p.  249).  Thence  we  pro^ 
ceed  to  the  E.  through  the  Calle  Mayor,  in  which  axe  the  Casa  de 
Delmi  (Gothic  windows)  and  other  old  houses.  —  If  time  allows, 
we  may  pay  a  visit  to  the  old  church  of  SaK  Salvador  (PI.  F,  3)j 
said  to  have  been  originally  a  Moorish  mosque.  The  nave,  which 
has  no  aisles,  is  covered  with  a  wooden  ceiling ;  the  choir  is  vaulted. 
The  sacristan  (26-40  c.)  lives  at  No.  46,  opposite  the  W.  entrance. 


to  VaUn-ia.  8EG0KBE.  24.  RouU.   251 

The  Boman  Cireut  (PI.  G,  D,  1),  which  was  about  300  yds.  long 
and  80  yds.  wide,  lay  on  the  bank  of  the  Palancia.  Early  travellers 
mention  the  remains  of  its  walls,  but  these  have  now  almost  wholly 
disappeared,  and  the  site  is  covered  with  gardens.  At  the  upper 
end  of  the  circus  are  some  remains  of  a  Roman  bridge  (Puente  An- 
tiguo;  PI.  C,  1). 

From  Sagunto  to  Sbookbb  and  Tebdkl,  62  U.,  diligence  twice  daily 
(office  in  Valencia,  see  p.  263).  —  The  road  ascends  the  wide  and  beau- 
tifol  valley  of  the  Pahmcia^  at  some  distance  from  the  right  bank.  2V«  M. 
Cfillei;  5  M.  EgtiveUa. 

7  M.  Torre*- Torrei^  a  considerable  village,  with  a  caatle  perched  on 
a  naked  limestone  hill.  To  the  right  is  the  Sierra  de  B^adan^  which, 
with  its  prolongation  the  Sitrra  de  E*pina,  bounds  the  Palancia  valley  on 
the  N.G.  To  the  left  rises  the  Monte  Maydr.  —  The  road  enters  the  pro- 
vince of  CcuteUon  de  la  Plana. 

IS'/i  M.  8eg6rbe,  a  town  of  6700  inhab.,  finely  situated  between  two 
castle-crowned  hills.  The  name  recalls  that  of  the  Oeltiberian  Begobriga^ 
which  played  an  important  part  iA  the  struggle  of  Viriathus  with  the  Uo- 
mans  (B.C.  149-139)^  but  the  assumption  that  Segorbe  is  the  ancient  Sego- 
briga  is  belied  by  the  distinct  aaseriion  of  ancient  writers  that  this  town 
lay  near  the  sources  of  the  Tagus.  The  three  Doric  columns  at  the  PcAacio 
del  Dvca  de  Medinaeeli  may,  nevertheless,  date  from  the  Roman  period.  The 
Cathedral  contains  a  high- altar-piece  of  the  school  of  Juanes.  In  the  church 
of  Ban  Martin  de  lae  Monjae  are  a  painting  of  Christ  in  Hades  by  Ribalta 
and  the  monument  of  Pedro  de  Casanova,  founder  of  the  adjoining  August- 
ine nunnery.  To  the  8.W.  of  the  town,  on  a  steep  promontory,  is  the 
Glorieta.  To  the  N.  we  see  the  Pico  de  la  Rapita  (3625  ft),  to  the  S.  the 
Sierra  de  la  Cveva  Santa.  The  latter  is  named  from  a  cave,  8  M.  from 
Segorbe,  containing  an  image  of  the  Virgin,  which  is  visited  by  thousands 
of  devotees  at  the  beginning  of  October.  A  fine  promenade  leads  from  the 
Puerta  de  Valencia  to  a  bridge  crossing  a  *barranco\  Walks  may  also  be 
taken  to  the  Fuente  de  la  Eeperanea  and  to  the  paper-mills  of  the  Carthusian 
convent  of  Val  de  Orieto. 

Beyond  Segorbe  the  road  continues  to  ascend  through  the  well-cultivated 
valley,  afi'ordinif  manj  fine  retrospects.  Farther  on  it  crosses  the  Palancia, 
by  a  bridge  built  in  1670,  and  reaches  (20  M.)  Jirica^  picturesquely  situated 
on  tile  V.  slope  of  a  limestone  hill,  on  the  top  of  which  are  the  ruins 
of  a  Moorish  castle,  captured  by  Jaime  I.  in  1235.  The  keep  is  about 
100  ft.  high. 

25  M.  Yivir^  with  copious  springs,  the  water  of  which  begins  to  drive 
mills  almost  at  its  birth.  To  the  li.E.  is  the  village  of  Gandiel.  —  The 
road  now  reaches  the  fissured  Plateau  of  Barrdeae^  which  is  of  evil  repute 
for  its  winter-storms.  At  the  top  we  have  an  extensive  view  to  the  E., 
bounded  by  the  distant  sea.  To  the  E.  rises  the  rocky  cone  of  the  Monte 
Pino,  to  the  W.  is  the  mountain-labyrinth  of  the  PtSla  Escabia. 

31  If .  Barrdeas,  the  last  place  in  Valencia,  has  a  very  fair  posada.  — 
Farther  on  the  scenery  reminds  us  that  we  have  reached  the  steppes  of 
Aragon.  Ban  Agustin  is  the  first  village  in  the  Aragonese  province  of  Teruel. 
We  descend  hence,  crossing  a  tributary  of  the  Villares  that  rises  in  the 
Sierra  de  Jaratambre  (6625  ft.),  to  Albentosa  and  — 

44  H.  Sarridn^  the  first  Aragonese  place  of  any  size.  —  53V2  K*  -^^ 
Puebla  de  Valverde. 

62  M.  Teruel^  see  p.  173. 

Beyond  Sagunto  the  train  enters  the  coast-plain  of  Valencia, 
which  consists,  wherever  the  water  penetrates,  of  blooming  huertas. 
The  mountains  on  the  right  recede.  The  sea  is  rarely  visible.  Nu- 
merous venerable  olive-trees  are  passed.  —  106  M.  Puzol  has  a  few 
palma  and  walls  and  towers  of  the  same  reddish  hue  as  the  soil  they 


252  Route  25.  VALENCIA.  Hotels, 

stand  on.  We  pass  through  a  rocky  cutting.  —  108  M.  Puig^  dom- 
inated hy  a  ruined  castle.  The  large  building  with  the  four  corner 
turrets  is  a  convent.  To  the  right  is  the  Monte  Negro.  —  110  M. 
Albuixech,  a  characteristic  village  of  the  huerta,  with  its  wheat-fields, 
orange-groves,  palms,  and  cottages  (chozcu).  —  The  domes  of  Va- 
lencia, shining  brightly  in  the  sun,  at  last  appear  in  the  distance. 
The  line  approaches  the  sea,  on  which,  to  the  left,  are  Cabafial  and 
El  Grao  (p.  266).  117  M.  Cabanal.  To  the  right  stands  the  convent 
of  San  Miguel  de  los  Reyes  (p.  262).  We  cross  the  TCtria^  to  the  E. 
of  Valencia,  by  a  lofty  iron  bridge,  pass  the  bull-ring,  and  enter  the 
station  of  (119  M.)  Valencia, 

25.  Valencia. 

Railway  Btations.  1.  Estaddn  del  NorU  (PI.  G,  6;  restaurant,  poor), 
Calle  Sagrario  San  Francisco,  to  the  8.E.  of  the  city,  for  the  trains  to  Tor- 
tosa  (Barcelona),  El  Grao,  Carcagente,  and  La  Encina  (Madrid,  Alicante). 
2.  E$(acidn  de  lAria  (to  the  N.  of  PI.  A,  1),  Carretera  de  Barcelona,  for  the 
narrow-gauge  railways  to  Rafelbunol,  Betera,  Patema,  and  Liria.  3.  Bwtacidn 
de  Aragdn  (PI.- A,  7),  Calle  de  Cuarto,  for  the  line  to  Liria  via  Manises. 
4.  Eataddn  del  Eete  (to  the  S.  of  PI.  G,  7),  Calle  de  Gibraltar,  for  the  line 
to  Utiel.  —  The  luggage  of  passengers  arriving  at  the  Estacidn  del  Norte 
U  twice  examined  by  the  custom-house  officers.  Gobi  (tariff,  see  below) 
and  the  Omnibuge*  of  the  more  important  hotels  meet  the  trains. 

Arrival  by  Sea.  The  steamers  anchor  in  the  harbour  of  El  Grao 
(p.  265).  Boat  from  or  to  the  steamer  f  r  each  pers.  and  each  large  article 
of  luggage  50  c.  (comp.  p.  xviii).  The  Grao  is  connected  with  Valencia  by 
ra'lway  and  steam- tramway,  cab-tariff,  see  below.  —  The  steamers  of  the 
Spanish  CompaH'a  Valenclana  de  Navegaeidn  (agency,  Calle  del  Tomo  de  San 
Cristobal  5)  run  weekly  to  Alicante;  while  the  coasting  steamers  of  Ibarra 
A  Co.  (agent,  E.  Ifoguea  Dechent,  Calle  de  Caballerofl  9)  ply  weekly  to  Ali- 
cante^ Malagaj  and  other  ports.  The  steamers  of  the  Con^xiiia  Sevillana  and 
of  Efpaliu  A  Co.  ply  weekly  between  Valencia  and  Marseilles  and  vice  versa, 
fomp.  the  French  time-ta^'lea  and  the  Guia  para  los  Viajeros  (p.  xv). 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xx).  Hotel  de  Espa^^'a  (PI.  a^  F,  5),  Ba.jada  de  Sau 
Francisco  7,  with  good  cuisine  and  large  cafe  on  the  groundfloor,  ddj.  4, 
1).  5,  omn.  J,  pens,  from  10  p.  ^  Hot.  de  Pabis  (PI.  b;  F,  3)  'Calle  del 
Mar  52,  pens.  8-10  p.  v  Hot.  de  Bona  (PI.  c;  F,  4),  Plaza  de  ViUarrasa  5, 
in  an  open  situation,  pens.  9  10  p. ;  Fonda  de  Osiente,  Calle  San  Vicente 
.84,  pens.  8-12  p.  i  Hot.  Ingles,  Pasage  de  Ripalda,  pens.  8-12  p. ;  Fonda 
DB  LAS  Cuatro  Naciokes,  Calle  Lauria,  pens.  6-9  p.;  Fonda  de  Europa, 
Calle  de  Eibera  2,  pens.  5  6V2  p.  \  Fonda  del  Comebcio,  Calle  San  Fer- 
nando 17,  pens.  4-8  p. 

Oafea  (comp.  p.  xxii).  Ca/i  EspaUa  (see  above),  in  the  Moorish  style, 
worth  seeing,  but  frequented  in  the  evening  hy  the  lower  classes  only; 
^Cc^fi  del  Siglo^  Plaza  de  la  Reina  2^  *C«/^  Fortie^  Calle  de  la  Pas  2,  near 
the  Plaza  de  la  Eeina;  C(^fi  de  la  Habana^  Calle  de  las  Barcas  86.  —  Con- 
fectioner: Burriel^i  Plaza  de  la  Reina  i. 

Restaurants  (comp.  p.  xxi).  *Espcdia^  on  the  fii*st  floor  of  the  Hot. 
de  Espana  (see  above),  ddj.  from  11.80  a.m.,  D.  from  7.90  p.m.  on;  JETdt. 
de  ParU^  see  above. 

Beer  Houses  (Cervecerim).  For  lis  (see  above),  Munich  beer;  Leo»  de 
Oro^  Plaza  de  la  Pelota  1 ;   G«rvec&ria  Etcocesa^  Calle  Pascual  y  Geais  51. 

Oabs  (CocJtes  de  Plaza ;  stand  in  the  Plaza  de  ViUarrasa) :  per  drive 
(carrera)  IV*,  for  the  Ist  hr.  (la  primera  hora)  l«/4,  each  addit.  hf.  !'/*> 
per  day  12Va  p.  •,  with  two  horses  2,  2V2,  2,  20  p.  —  There  is  but  a'  small 
number  of  these  superior  cabs,  and  the  ordinary  conveyance  of  Valencia 


fliB 

uoAirnrav^-il*»-iS 

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1       ^       •■•- 

Tn»nway8,  VALENCIA.  25,  Route,   253 

is  the  Tartana,  a  two-wheeled  vehicle,  with  six  aeaU  facing  each  other  aa 
io  a  waggonette  and  entered  from  behind.  The  driver  sits  on  a  small 
board  attached  to  one  of  the  shafts.  The  name  is  taken  Arom  a  variety  of 
small  aaiiing-boat  well-known  on  the  Mediterranean  (comp.  the  double 
meaning  of  the  New  En|[land  barge)^  and  the  cover  resembles  the  /elta  of 
the  Veaaetian  gondola.  Fare  1,  for  the  1st  hr.  IVa,  each  addit.  hr.  1,  per 
day  71/3  p.  —  In  all  cases  the  above  tariff  incluaes  £1  Orao,  and  the  rate 
per  honr  (per  hora)  includes  all  places  within  Va  hr.  of  the  town.  In  drives 
to  the  railway-station  the  above  fares  cover  1-2  pers.  and  one  article  of 
Inggagc;  each  additional  article  25-50  c,  according  to  size. 

Tnunwaya  (Trantias).  1.  Linea  Dwgonal^  running  from  the  Qlorieta 
fPl.  G,  H,  3)  across  the  town,  through  the  Mercado  (p.  IMS)  and  near  the 
Musemn  (p.  2P0).  2.  From  the  Plata  de  Tetuan  (PI.  G,  2)  to  the  Sstaddn 
de  Arag&n  (p.  2&2).  3.  From  the  PumU  de  Serrano*  (PL  C,  1)  to  the  £staci6n 
de  Liria  (p.  252).  4.  Unea  de  Circunvalacion^  running  round  the  town  on 
the  line  of  the  former  fortifications.  Fares  5-10  c.  —  Bteam  Tramway 
from  the  Plaza  de  Tetuan  (PI.  O,  2),  via  .he  Puente  del  Real  (PI.  F,  G,  1) 
and  the  Alameda  (p.  262),  to  El  Orao  (p.  266),  every  V«  hr.  (fares  35, 
25,  15  c). 

Post  Office  (Correo;  PI.  E,  6),  Bajada  del  Palau;  open  for  poste  restante 
letters  9-3,  for  the  transmissiun  of  registered  letters  to  foreign  countries 
8-10.  —  TelMtaph  Office  (PI.  F,  4),  Calle  Trinquete  de  Caballeros. 

BxitMh  'VTca-Gonsnl,  A.  Frederick  Iven*^  Calle  del  Mar  59.  —  United 
States  Gonsular  Agent,  Theodor  Mertens^  at  £1  Grao  (p.  265).  —  Iloyd^s 
Agents,  Dart  ie  Co. 

Baths  (Ba%os).  Lag  Termas,  Calle  de  Pelayo  37  and  Calle  Baildn  38, 
to  the  S.  i<f  the  Estaeidn  del  Korte.  The  following  are  open  in  summer 
only:  BcHos  de  San  Rafael^  Calle  de  Falcon  2;  El  TWt'a,  Calle  de  Carni- 
ceros  14;  El  Almirante,  Calle  del  Almirante  1;  and  the  baths  in  the  Calle 
de  Pizarro.  —  Sea  Baths  (BaHos  Flotantes),  open  from  mid- June  to  Oct.: 
^'Lat  Arenas,  at  Cabafial  (p.  265);  La  Florida,  LaEetrella^  at  El  Grao. 

Chemists.  Farmaeia  de  San  Martin^  Ca]le  de  San  Vicente  22;  Br. 
Frcmcisco  Torrens,  Plaxa  del  Mercado  73;  Bias  Cue$ta,  Plaza  del  Sillereado. 

Bank  (aleo  money-changers).    Cridit  Ljfonnaf$,  Calle  San  Vicente  25. 

Beoksellers.  Paecual  Aguilar,  Calle  de  Caballeros  26;  Ram6n  Ortega^ 
Bajada  de  San  Francisco  11,  adjoining  the  Hot.  Espana;  Badal^  Plaza  de 
la  Constitucidn  4. 

Shops  (comp.  p.xxiii).  The  best  are  in  the  Calle  de  San  Vicente,  the 
Calle  de  Zaragoza,  the  Plaza  de  la  Reina,  and  the  Calle  de  San  Fernando.  — 
Fans  (Paknitoe),  a  Valencian  speciality:  Calomina  y  Bomingneg,  Calle  de 
Zaragoza  29.  —  Mamtab  Valbmoianas,  at  several  shops  in  the  Calle  de  San 
Fernando,  to  the  E.  of  the  Mercado.  —  Gloves,  Calle  de  Zaragoza  24.  — 
SiLVEB  Wabes  (excellent),  in  the  shops  in  the  Plateria.  —  Albacete  Kxives 
and  Daggers  (p.  278),  Calle  de  las  Hierros  de  la  Lonja. 

Theatres  (comp.  p.  xxvi).  Teatro  Principal  (PI.  G,  5),  Calle  de  las 
Barcas,  for  operas  and  dramas,  with  room  for  !SCO  people ;  Teatro  de  la 
Prin'ua  (PI.  C,  4,  5),  Calle  del  Rev  Don  Jaime,  for  light  comedy,  2arzue- 
las,  etc.;  Teatro  de  Apolo  (PI.  G,  5),  Calle  Don  Juan  de  Austria  24.  — 
Snnuner  Theatres.  Teatro  de  Pizarro  (PI.  H,  I,  6),  Calle  de  Pi/arro; 
Teatro  Diat  (PI.  H,  6),  Calle  de  Ruzafa  55.  Each  of  these  has  a  cafe- 
restaurant  and  can  accommodate  2000  spectators. 

Bull  King  {Plaza  de  Toros;  PI.  G,  H,  6,  7;  p.  265),  Calle  de  Jiitiva.  — 
Tiro  de  Pichon  (Pigeon  Shooting)^  carried  on  mainly  in  the  dry  bed  of  the 
Turia,  below  the  Puente  del  Mar.  —  Basque  Ball  Game  {Juego  de  Pelota; 
p.  xxix),  near  the  Alameda  (p.  262;  in  summer  only). 

Xzpeslcidn  Permanente  de  Bellas  Artes,  Calle  de  Caballeros  13  (free). 

Difigence  Office,  Calle  de  San  Vicente  115^or  the  journeys  to  Segorbe^ 
Teruel,  Daroca^  and  Cari^ena  (comp.  pp.  251,  173). 

YestiTftls.  Interesting  processions  take  place  on  El  Dia  de  San  Vicente 
(April  5th ;  p.  262),  the  tutelar  of  the  city.  —  The  Festival  of  Corpiu  Chrieti 
IS  al^  celebrated  with  processions  and  carrying  round  the  Pasot  (p.  3£0), 
—  A  singular    ceremony    is  performed   every   Friday   at  10  a.m.   in  the 


254   Route  25.  VALENCIA.  History, 

church  of  Corpus  Christi  (p.  256).  —  On  ITov.   11th  and  Nov.  25(h  the 
Dehefa  de  Albufera  (p.  266)  is  much  visited. 

Principal  Bights  (1-lVs  day).  Walk  through  the  CaUe  de  San  Vicente 
and  the  Calte  de  Zaragota  to  the  Cathedral  (p.  257),  Ascent  of  the  Migut- 
lete  (^.  256).  Visits  lo  the  Audieneia  (p.  259),  the  Mvsewn  (p.  260),  the 
Puerto  de  Serranos  (p.  281),  and  the  Qlvrieta  (p.  262).  From  the  Qlorieta 
by  tramway  to  the  Mercado  and  Lonja  (p.  263). 

Valencia^  once  the  capital  of  the  king:dom  and  now  of  the  pro- 
vince of  the  same  name,  and  the  seat  of  an  archbishop,  a  captain 
general,  and  a  university,  lies  2^/2  M.  from  the  sea,  in  the  fertile 
Huerta  de  Valencia,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  THria  or  Gtuidalaviar 
(Arab.  Wadi-al-abyad,  or  'white  river').  Pop.  125,100.  The  views 
it  commands  of  the  mountains  to  the  W.  (12  M.  off),  the  acropolis 
of  Sagunto  to  the  N.,  and  the  Mongo  and  Alicante  Mts.  to  the  S.E., 
are  not  particularly  striking,  and  the  sea  is  not  visible  except  from 
the  tops  of  towers.  Nevertheless  the  city  presents  a  cheerful  and 
picturesque  aspect,  with  the  blue,  white,  and  gold  azulejo-domes  of 
its  churches  and  its  narrow  and  bustling  streets,  overspread  by  the 
clear  sky  of  the  S. ;  and  it  is  easy  to  understand  the  ancient  saying 
^coelum  hie  cecidisse  putes'  ('you  would  take  it  for  a  piece  of  heaven 
upon  earth').  None  of  the  larger  towns  of  Spain,  except,  perhaps, 
Alicante  and  Cadiz,  produce  so  Oriental  an  effect  as  Valencia,  the 
Medina-bit-tardb  (*city  of  joy')  of  the  Arabs,  who,  according  to  the 
Spanish  ballad,  bewailed  the  approach  of  the  Cid : 

Citanto  mas  la  vee  hermom  The  more  beautiful  it  appears, 

Mas  le  crece  su  pesar  .  .  .  The  greater  is  the  sorrow .  .  . 

0  Valencia,  0  Valencia^  Oh  Valencia,  Oh  Valencia, 

Bids  te  quiera  remediarl  May  God  give  thee  succour! 

The  Climatb  of  Valencia  (comp.  p.  242)  is  singularly  mild  and 
very  dry.  The  Levantero,  or  E.  wind,  alone  brings  rain;  the  Po- 
niente,  or  W.  wind,  descending  from  the  Castilian  plateau,  is  liot  in 
summer  and  cold  in  winter,  but  always  dry.  The  Solano^  or  S.  wind, 
generally  brings  great  heat  and  is  charged  with  the  malarious  ex- 
halations of  the  rice-marshes  of  Albufera.  —  The  drinking-water  of 
Valencia  is  the  water  of  the  Turia  filtrated,  and  should  be  avoided. 

History.  Valencia,  which  lay  in  the  territory  of  the  JSdetani,  first 
appears  in  history  in  B.C.  138,  at  the  end  of  the  war  with  Viriathus,  when 
JPecimus  Junius  Brutus,  the  Roman  consul,  settled  the  captive  Lusitanians 
here  and  invested  the  town  with  the  Jus  Latinum.  Later  Valencia  espoused 
the  cause  of  Sertorius,  and  it  was  therefore  destroyed  by  Pomppy  in 
B.C.  75.  The  Visigoths  captured  the  town  in  413  A.D.,  and  the  Moors  in 
714.  On  the  disruption  of  the  Caliphate  of  Cordova,  the  Viceroy  ^Abd-al-' Aziz 
Abu-l-JSasan  here  founded  the  dynasty  of  the  Amerides  (1021)  and  made 
Valencia  the  capital  of  an  independent  kingdom  which  stretched  along 
the  coast  from  Almeria  to  the  Ebro.  This  kingdom  fell  into  the  hands 
of  the  Almoi'avides  (p.  309)  in  1092,  but  soon  after  (1096)  Valencia  was 
taken,  partly  through  treachery,  by  the  Christians  under  the  Cid  (p.  26). 
After  the  death  of  this  famous  leader  (1099)  his  wife  Ximena  tried  to 
defend  the  city,  now  known  as  Valencia  del  Cid^  but  was  soon  forced  to 
abandon  it.  The  story  of  how  she  placed  the  dead  body  of  her  husband 
on  his  famous  war-horse  Babieca  and  so  pa.ssed  safely  through  the  ranks 
of  the  terrified  Moors  is  a  favourite  one  with  the  Spanish  ballad-writers. 
Mohammed  Ibn  S(^id  or  Ibn  Mardanfsh  (1146-72)  established  here  another 
fooriph  kingdom,   which  alto  embraced  Murcia,  Almeria,  and  Jaen,  and 


CaUe  de  S,  Vicente.        VALENCIA.  26.  Route.    255 

saccesBfolly  maintained  bis  independence  against  the  Alxnobades.  After 
his  death  Alfonso  II.  of  Aragon  exacted  tribute  from  Valencia,  bnt  it  was 
not  finally  conquered  by  the  Christians  till  1288,  when  Jaime  J.  of  Aragon 
entered  the  city  in  triumph  on  Sept.  S8th,  the  eve  of  the  festital  of 
St.  Michael,  lender  the  ^Catholic  Kings*  Valencia  was  annexed  to  Castile 
and  was  ruled  by  a  viceroy  (viiTey),  T)ie  industrious  Moriscoes  were 
foolishly  expelled  in  the  beginning  of  the  17th  cent.,  and  its  espousal  of 
the  cause  of  the  Hapsburgs  in  the  War  of  the  Spanish  Succession  led  to 
the  abolition  of  its  fueros  (p.  4).  In  the  War  of  Independence  Valencia 
was  taken  by  Bucket  in  1812,  remaining  in  the  hands  of  ttie  French  till  the 
following  year.  In  the  later  contests  between  Liberals  and  Conservatives 
Valencia  waa  the  scene  of  various  significant  events,  and  here  Quern 
Christina  signed  her  abdication  on  Oct.  12th,  1840.  —  In  spite  of  the  con- 
struction of  large  protective  works  at  the  harbour  of  El  Grao  (p.  2l^), 
the  trade  of  Valencia  has  of  late  been  steadily  declining.  It  has,  however, 
recently  regained  its  former  importance  as  one  of  the  headquarters  of 
Spanish  painting.  —  The  first  printing-press  in  Spain  is  said  to  have  been 
set  up  at  Valencia  in  1474. 

Valencia  plays  a  somewhat  prominent  part  in  the  romance  of  *OiI  Bias", 
and  the  estate  of  Liriae^  presented  to  that  hero  by  the  Leyvas,  is  described  as 
near  the  Ouadalaviar  and  about  4  hrs/  journey  from  Valencia  (coup.  Map). 

The  kernel  of  the  old  town  is  fonned  by  the  cathedral,  which 
stands  at  the  junction  of  three  of  the  most  ancient  quarters:  the 
Oaariel  del  Mereado,  0.  del  Mar^  and  C.  de  Serranoe.  The  0.  de  San 
Vicente,  to  the  S.W.,  is  another  old  district.  A  few  of  the  streets 
are  fairly  straight  and  wide,  but  most  of  them  are  narrow,  dark, 
and  irregular.  The  city-walls,  erected  in  1366  and  celebrated  under 
their  Moorish  name  of  Tdpia  (p.  xzzTiii),  were  removed  in  1871,  and 
two  gates  (pp.  261,  264)  alone  remain  to  tell  the  tale.  On  their  site 
has  been  laid  out  a  series  of  wide  encircling  boulevards,  hut  few 
houses  have  been  built  in  these  except  on  the  E.  side,  which  is 
exposed  to  the  refreshing  sea-breezes. 

In  front  of  the  Estacidn  del  Norte  (PI.  G,  6),  on  the  site  of  the 
former  Convent  of  San  Francisco,  lies  a  wide  and  dreary  expanse 
surrounded  by  poorly-built  houses.  At  its  N.W.  end  lies  the  Plaza 
DE  San  Fkancisco  (PI.  F,  5),  with  its  green  pleasure-grounds.  — 
Tlie  busy  Bajada  de  San  Francisco  leads  hence  to  the  N.W.  to  the  — 

Calls  db  San  Vicente,  one  of  the  chief  streets  of  the  city,  the 
N.  part  of  which  is  enlivened  by  a  considerable  traffic.  The  open 
shops  on  the  groundfloor,  with  their  bright-coloured  cloths  and  car<-> 
pets,  are  picturesque  and  Oriental-looking.  The  Calle  San  Fernando 
(PI.  E,  4)  leads  to  the  W.  to  the  Mercado  (p.  263),  and  other  streets 
to  the  Plaza  del  Cid  (p.  267).  The  Calle  de  San  Vicente  ends  at 
the  Plaza  de  la  Reina  (p.  267). 

The  quarter  to  the  N.E.  of  the  Calle  de  San  Vicente  contains 
several  interesting  buildings.  Thus,  near  the  Plaza  de  la  Reina, 
is  the  church  of  San  Martin  (PI.  E,  F,  4),  originally  a  Gothic  struc- 
ture of  1400,  but  now  entirely  modernized.  Over  the  portal  is  a 
bronze  equestrian  statue  of  St.  Martin  (1496).  —  The  narrow  Calle 
Abadia  de  San  Martin  leads  to  the  attractive  Plaza  db  Villab&asa 
(PI.  F,  4),  on  the  S.  side  of  which  (No.  18),  at  the  corner  of  the 
Calle  Maria  de  Molina,  stands  the  handsome  Palaoio  del  Xarqu^ 


256  Route  25.  VALENCIA.  CoL  del  Patriarea, 

de  Dos  AgUftB,  a  bnilding  of  the  18th  cent.,  with  abaroque  portal  ' 
by  Vergaraj  fantastically  adorned  with  figures. 

We  now  proceed  to  the  S.E.,  through  the  Galle  Maria  de  Molina, 
to  the  church  of  San  Andres  (PI.  F,  4),  originally  a  mosque,  restored 
in  the  13th  cent.,  and  modernized  in  1610.  The  interior  contains 
good  pictures  by  Juanes  ('Virgen  de  la  Leche'),  Ribaltaj  Vergara, 
and  other  Valenoiau  masters.  —  The  Calle  de  Rubiols  leads  hence 
to  the  N.E.  to  the  Plaza  del  Colegio  del  Pateiarca  (PI.  F,  0,4), 
on  the  N.  side  of  which,  at  the  corner  of  the  Galle  de  la  Nave, 
stands  the  — 

Colegio  dol  Patriarea,  a  Renaissance  edifice,  resembling  the 
Roman  palazsii,  erected  in  1586-1605  for  Juan  de  Ribera,  Arch- 
bishop and  Viceroy  of  Valencia.  The  architect  was  Antonio  del  JR«y, 
but  the  plans  are  said  to  have  been  furnished  by  Herrera.  In  the 
middle  of  the  large  arcaded  court  stands  an  unimportant  ancient 
statue  of  Geres.  To  the  right  of  the  entrance  is  the  Capilla  de  la 
Purisima  Concepcidn,  containing  fine  tapestry,  some  pictures  by 
Ribalta,  and  a  group  of  the  Virgin  and  Child  (16th  cent.).  On  the 
first  floor  are  the  Archives,  the  Library,  and  the  Dwelling  of  the 
Rector,  the  last  containing  some  good  works  by  ^arinena,  Ribalta, 
and  Morales  (shown  after  2  p.m.).  —  The  S.W.  angle  of  the  build- 
ing is  occupied  by  the  Iglbsia  del  Corpus  Christi,  the  dome  of 
which  is  decorated  with  frescoes  by  Jucsn  BauUsta  Novara,  represent- 
ing the  legend  of  St.  Vincent  Ferrer  (p.  262).  A  dark  chapel  to  the 
left  enshrines  a  painting  by  RibcUta,  representing  the  appearance  of 
Christ  and  Saints  to  that  saint  on  hijs  sick-bed.  In  the  transept  is  the 
tomb  of  Archbp.  Juan  de  Ribera  (see  above),  canonized  in  1797.  By 
the  high-altar  are  a  Last  Supper  and  a  Holy  Family  by  Ribalta. 

The  Miterere  celebrated  at  the  high-altar  at  10  a.m.  on  Frid.  (comp. 
p.  253)  is  a  singular  and  most  impressive  ceremony,  which  ladies  are  not 
allowed  to  attend  unless  dressed  in  black  and  wearing  a  mantilla.  Bibalta''8 
Last  Supper  is  lowered  by  machinery,  and  its  place  is  taken  by  a  series 
of  curtains  of  different  colours.  When  the  last  black  curtain  is  suddenly 
withdrawn  as  by  an  invisible  hand,  we  see  a  figure  of  the  Dying  Saviour 
on  the  Gross.  The  ceremony  is  then  repeated  in  the  reverse  order.  The 
incense-blackened  wooden  crucifix,  presented  by  the  founder  of  the  Colegio 
and  church,  passes  for  a  masterpiece  of  Italian  art.,  but  cannot  be  more 
closely  examined  without  the  permission  of  the  Rector  (apply  to  the 
sacristan). 

Opposite  the  Colegio  stands  the  VniTersity  (PL  G,  4),  founded 
in  1441  and  restored  at  the  beginning  of  the  19th  century.  It  has 
about  2000  students.  In  the  court  is  a  statue  of  Juan  Luis  de  Vives, 
a  philosopher  and  scholar  who  was  bom  at  Valencia  in  1492  and 
died  at  Bruges  in  1640 ;  it  is  by  Jos^  Aixa  and  was  erected  in  1880. 
The  library  (open  daily,  9-1)  contains  about  50,000  vols.,  including 
'Tirante  el  Blanco'  and  many  others  of  the  romances  of  chivalry 
mentioned  in  'Don  Quixote'.  It  also  possesses  flue  old  editions  of 
the  classics  and  MSS.  from  the  convents  of  San  Miguel  de  los  Reyes 
and  Santo  Domingo  (p.  262)  and  the  Cartuja  dePortacoeli  (p.  267). 
—  The  Calle  de  la  Nave  leads  hence  to  the  N.E.  to  the  Plaza  del 
Principe  Alfonso  and  the  Glorieta  (see  p.  262). 


Cathedral  VALENCIA.  ^6.  Route.  257 

Through  the  long  and  narrow  Plaza  de  GomediaB  we  proceed 
to  the  N.  W.  to  the  Plaza  de  la  Congregaclon  (PI.  F,  3),  which  is 
shaded  hy  plane-trees.  Here  stands  the  church  of  Santo  Tomas, 
Hence  we  may  return  to  the  S.W.  to  the  Plaza  de  la  Reina  through 
the  Calls  dbl  Mab(P1.  E,  F,  3,  4),  another  of  the  chief  thorough- 
fares of  Valencia. 

The  Calle  de  San  Vicente  and  the  Calle  del  Mar  meet  at  the 
Plaza  db  la  Rbina  (PI.  £,  4),  a  small  triangular  place,  surrounded 
by  flne  trees  and  containing  elegant  shops  and  the  Caftf  del  Siglo 
(p.  252). 

On  the  W.  it  is  adjoined  by  the  narrow  Plaza  db  Santa  Cata- 
LiNA  (PI.  £t  4),  with  the  church  of  Santa  Catalina,  dating  from' 
1688  and  possessing  a  hexagonal  tower.  The  interior  is  as  brilliant 
as  white  paint  and  gilding  can  make  it,  while  the  W.  front  is 
adorned  with  a  mosaic  of  azulejos.  Hence  we  may  go  to  the  S.W., 
via  the  round  Plata  del  Cid  or  the  Fla%a  de  Yerbae  (vegetable  and 
fruit  market  at  both  in  the  morning),  to  the  Mercado  (p.  263). 

We  now  turn  to  the  N.W.  into  the  Calls  db  Zabagoza  (PI.  £, 
4,  3),  a  narrow  street  with  numerous  shops.  With  the  Miguelete, 
or  tower  of  the  cathedral,  rising  at  its  N.  end,  this  affords  one  of 
the  most  quaint  and  characteristic  street-views  in  Valencia. 

The  Gothic  *Oathedrftl  (PI.  E,  3),  known  as  La  Seo^  is  sup- 
posed to  occupy  the  site  of  a  temple  of  Diana,  which  was  succeeded 
in  turn  by  a  Christian  church  and  a  Moorish  mosque.  According 
to  an  inscription,  the  present  building,  which  is  dedicated  to  the 
Virgin,  was  founded  in  1262  and  finished  by  Pedro  Compte  (?)  in 
14S2.  The  ground-plan  shows  a  nave  and  aisles,  a  transept,  and  a 
pentagonal  capilla  mayor  with  ambulatory  and  radiating  chapels. 
The  E.  end,  the  S.  transept,  with  its  round-arched  portal  (Puerta 
del  Paldu)  and  lancet-windows,  and  part  of  the  sacristy  date  from 
the  13th  century.  The  N.  transept,  with  the  sculptured  Puerta  de 
los  Apditoles  and  its  rose-windows,  and  the  airy  octagonal  *Cim- 
borio  over  the  crossing,  with  its  large  and  beautiful  traceried  win- 
dows, were  erected  after  1350,  and  the  latter  was ,  perhaps ,  not 
finished  till  1404.  In  1381-1418  was  erected  the  Gothic  bell-tower 
to  the  left  of  the  facade,  which  is  known  as  El  Miguelete  (Valencian, 
El  Miealetey,  it  is  said  to  be  an  imitation  of  the  cathedral-tower  at 
L^rida  (p.  215)  and  to  be  due  to  a  foreign  archite<'t,  Juan  FrancJc. 
The  New  Chapter  House,  adjoining  the  left  aisle,  was  finished  in 
1482.  The  Paerta  del  Miguelete,  the  main  entrance,  facing  the  Calle 
de  Zaragoza,  with  its  bronze-bound  doors,  has  been  modernized. 
Unfortunately  the  cathedral  is  so  hemmed  in  by  other  buildings 
that  no  general  view  of  it  is  obtainable.  It  stands  N.W.  and  S.E., 
instead  of  B.  and  W. 

The  laterior,  which  ia  320  It.  long  and  200  ft.  wide  (across  the  tran- 
septs), was  sadly  def  iced  in  1760  by  a  coa4ng  of  plaster  of  Paris  in  the 
Renaissance  style.  To  the  right,  adjoining  the  main.entrance,  is  a  "Baptism 
of  Christ,  by  Juana.    In  the  corner,  at  the  beginning  of  the  K.  aisle,  is 

BASDBKXx*i  Spain.  17 


258   Route  26.  VALENCIA.  MigxuUu, 

the  entrance  to  tbe  Miguelete  (see  below),  aad  in  the  opposite  comer  is 
that  of  the  old  Sala  Capitular  (see  below). 

Ijift  Aislb.  On  the  wall  between  the  Gapilla  de  San  Luis  and  the 
Oapilla  de  San  Vicente  Ferrer  (2nd  and  8rd  chapels)  is  a  good  painting 
of  the  15th  cent.,  representing  a  canonised  bishop  with  two  angels  and 
Ihc  pious  founders.  In  the  Capilla  de  la  Purfsima  Concepcidn  (the  fourth) 
are  four  other  pictures  of  the  same  period. 

BiOHT  AiSLB.  The  Capilla  de  San  Pedro  (the  first),  now  used  as  a 
parish-church,  contains  parts  of  the  old  high-altar,  destroyed  by  fire  in 
1469,  a  replica  of  Jwrne*"  Presentation  of  the  Saviour  (p.  2bl),  and  Peter 
receiving  the  keys,  by  Ondara.  —  To  the  left,  in  the  Cap.  de  San  Fran- 
cisco de  Borja  (2nd),  is  a  painting  by  Goya,  representing  the  saint  taking 
leave  of  his  friends  when  about  to  join  the  order  of  the  Jesuits.  —  In  the 
Cap.  de  San  Miguel  (3rd)  is  the  Virgin  in  prayer,  by  the  Italian  painter 
Sasto/errato.  —  The  Gap.  de  Santo  Tomtfs  de  Villanueva  (4th)  contains 
four  paintings  of  the  16th  century. 

The  TrateorOy  at  the  S.  end  of  the  Renaissance  Cobo,  is  adorned  with 
12  alabaster  reliefs  from  the  Old  and  ITew  Testaments,  dating  from  1466. 
The  silleria  is  elaborately  carved. 

The  High  Altab,  dating  from  the  end  of  the  16fh  cent.,  was  modern- 
ized in  1862.  The  beautiful  panel-paintings  of  scenes  from  the  history  of 
Christ  and  the  Virgin  were  executed  by  Ferrando  de  Llanos  and  Ferrando 
de  Almedina  in  1606,  and  clearly  show  (especially  the  Death  of  the  Virgin) 
the  influence  of  Leonardo  da  Vinci.  The  painted  doors  behind  the  altar 
are  also  noteworthy.  On  an  adjacent  pillar  are  hung  up  the  spurs  and 
bridle  of  James  I.  of  Aragon. 

Bight  Transept.  Near  the  door  are  the  Itfartyrdom  of  St.  Serapion 
and  the  Martyrdom  of  St.  Vincent,  two  paintings  by  Jo»4  Ytrgara, 

Ambulatobt.  The  dark  Capilla  de  la  Virgen  del  Puig  (2nd),  with  its 
alabaster  windows,  contains  a  fine  painting  of  the  Virgin  and  Child  by  an 
Unknown  UatUr  of  tJie  16th  century.  —  Adjoining  the  (last)  Capilla  de  San 
Antonio  is  an  Ecce  Homo,  probably  bv  RibtUta. 

The  Sacbistt  (best  visited  about  10  a.m.)  contains  a  Bearing  of  the 
Gross,  after  Sebastiano  del  Piombo  (p.  78),  a  Piet^  after  MvriUo,  the  ivory 
Crucifix  of  St.  Francis  of  Sales,  a  valuable  Temo  (set  of  chasuble  and  two 
dalmatics,  worn  by  the  three  celebrants),  some  fine  Altar  Frontah  of  the 
16th  cent.,  and  the  Staff  of  St.  Augustine.  —  In  the  BblicAbio  is  a  magni- 
ficent Santo  Calix  (chalice)  from  the  convent  of  San  Juan  de  la  Pena 
(p.  161),  consisting  of  an  antique  brown  sardonyx,  about  4  inches  across 
and  richly  adorned  with  pearls,  rubies,  and  emeralds.  The  base  is  also 
of  sardonyx.  A  special  festival  is  held  on  Aug.  31st  in  honour  of  this 
relic,  which  was  probably  made  in  the  15th  century. 

The  **Sala  Capitdlab  Antigda  (entr.,  see  above),  built  in  1368,  has 
been  partly  modernized  but  still  retains  its  old  Gothic  groining,  which 
resembles  a  star  or  a  sun  with  its  planets.  The  Forial  U  fine,  and  also 
the  Old  Traecoro^  with  a  statue  of  Christ  by  AUmso  Cam.  The  interesting 
cartoon  by  Lopety  representing  the  expulsion  of  tbe  Moors,  was  originally 
transparent.  On  the  wall  hangs  a  dbain  which  the  Catalans  carried  off 
from  Marseilles.  —  The  Sala  Gapitulab  Modebna  (p.  267)  contains  a  Holy 
Family  and  a  Last  Supper  by  Juanes  and  a  Pieta  by  a  FlemUh  Master. 

The  *lligueletef  or  bell-tower,  is  ascended  by  a  steep  winding 
staircase  of  207  steps  (entr.,  see  above ;  open  8-12  and  2-5 ;  fee  to 
the  keeper  25  c).  It  was  originally  meant  to  be  much  higher  than  it 
is;  the  present  height (152  ft.)  is  equal  to  its  circumference,  each 
of  its  eight  sides  being  about  19  ft.  wide.  The  rich  belfry  contains 
the  Miguelete  J  a  bell  first  hung  on  the  feast  of  St.  Michael  (p.  255)^ 
the  strokes  of  which,  as  in  the  case  of  the  bell  in  the  Torre  de  Vela 
at  Ghranada,  regulate  the  irrigation  of  the  Huerta.  The  bell  is  struck 
on  the  outside  by  a  liammeT,  and  the  dapper  is  not  used. 


Audiencia.  VALENCIA.  25.  Route.   259 

Hie  *Vnw  frtfm  the  platform  below  the  belfry-stage  is  wide  and 
comprehensiTe.  It  is  said  that  the  Cld,  the  morning  after  his  capture  of 
Valencia,  brought  his  wife  and  daughters  to  the  top  of  the  Moorish  tower 
on  this  site,  to  show  them  the  earthly  paradise  he  had  won.  We  overlook 
the  entire  Btierta  from  the  mountains  of  Benicasfm  (p.  247)  and  the  castle 
hill  of  Sagunto  (p.  SfiO)  to  the  mountains  of  Alicante.  Immediately  to  the 
8.  lies  the  Albufera  (p.  266).  Prominent  to  the  N.  are  the  mountains  near 
Segorbe  (p.  251),  to  the  W.  those  of  Ghiva  and  Requena,  the  Dupoblado 
de  lot  CabriUoi  and  the  SUrra  MartU;  the  Mong6  (p.  278)  is  conspicuous 
to  the  8.B.  The  streets  of  the  town  lie  below  us  like  open  trenches. 
Abore  the  flat-roofed  houses  rise  the  beautiful  tiled  domes.  The  steeple 
of  AMto  Catalina  (p.  257),  the  ISurta  d»  Semmot  (p.  261),  the  Puerta  de 
Cuarte  (p.  264),  and  the  BuU  JUng  (p.  285)  are  seen  to  special  adyantage. 
An  admirable  bird's-eye  view  is  obtained  of  the  roofs,  domes,  and  noble 
lantern  of  the  cathedral. 

From  the  N.  end  of  the  cathedral  a  lofty  stone  bridge  leads 
across  the  Plaza  Almoina  (PI.  £,  3)  to  the  Capilla  de  Haestra 
Sefiora  de  lot  Deuuaparadof  ('the  forsaken'),  a  dark  oval  structure, 
modernized  in  the  17th  cent,  and  adorned  (vaulting)  with  unim- 
portant frescoes  by  Palomino,  Over  the  high-altar  is  the  much- 
revered  Sagrada  Imagtn  of  the  Virgin,  originally  destined  by  Bene- 
dict Xni.  (p.  170)  for  a  lunatic  asylum  (1410).  Above  it  is  a 
picture  by  JuaneSy  representing  the  Virgin  distributing  gifts  to  the 
orphans  (desamparados)  of  a  brotherhood. 

To  the  N.£.  of  the  cathedral  and  also  connected  with  it,  as  well 
as  with  the  above-named  Gapilla,  by  stone  arches,  is  the  Palaoio 
AszoBisFAL  (PI.  £,  3),  with  its  fine  patio. 

The  Tribunal  de  Agnai  or  de  las  Acequieros,  also  called  La 
Carte  dt  la  See,  holds  its  meetings  every  Thurs.,  at  11.30  a.m.,  in 
the  Plaza  db  la  Sbo  (PL  E,  3) ,  in  firont  of  th^'  Puerta  de  los 
Apostoles  (p.  267). 

The  members  of  tUis  *  Water  Tribunal'  are  peasants,  exercising  full 
control  over  the  irrigation-districts  (aciqvia*)  of  Tormot^  RasccMa,  MUlata^ 
liutdOa,  Fabara^  Robella^  and  Manites.  (Moneada,  the  eighth  district,  is 
under  a  syndic  appointed  by  government.)  Theyf  assemble  on  a  semi- 
circular divan,  which  has  to  be  provided  by  the  chapter  of  the  cathedral, 
and  elect  their  own  president  or  Regidor  de  Justicia.  The  proceedUigs  are 
all  verbal  and  cost  the  parties  nothing.  As  soon  as  the  litigant*}  and  the 
witnesses  have  been  heard,  the  tribunal  discusses  the  case  in  public  and 
pronounces  its  decision.  This  is  summary,  and  from  it  there  is  no  appeal. 
The  condemned  receives  no  water  for  his  field,  until  he  has  satisfied  the 
court  through  the  Cekidoret  or  overseers.  —  This  tribunal  of  the  waters 
dates  from  the  Moorish  period  and  has  retained  its  primitive  simplicity 
and  honesty  through  all  the  political  changes  that  have  taken  place.  Even 
the  ^ay  of  meeting  is  unchanged,  Thursday  having  been  the  market-day 
f  suM)  of  the  Moors. 

In  the  middle  of  the  Plaza  de  la  Seo,  which  is  also  known  as 
the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucidn,  is  a  tasteful  fountain.  A  charming 
little  Oatden  on  its  W.  side  invites  to  repose.  —  Beyond  this  garden 
rises  the  *Aadienoia  (PI.  D,  3 ;  adm.  on  application  to  the  porter, 
to  the  right;  fee  V2'i  pO>  formerly  the  Palacio  de  la  Diputacidn^ 
or  chamber  of  deputies,  of  the  kingdom  of  Valencia.  It  is  an  im- 
:  posing  Renaissance  structure  of  the  16th  cent.,  with  a  lofty  fagade 
.turned  towards  the  Calle  de  Gaballeros. 

17* 


260   BouU25.  VALENCIA.  Museo  Provincial, 

After  visiting  the  Sbcbbtabia,  with  iifl  coflfered  and  gilded  ceilisg,  we 
ascend  a  flight  of  steps  to  the  *  SALdsr  db  Cobtie8,  or  old  chamber  of  the 
deputies,  wbich  has  a  magnificent  artesonado  .C€dling  (21  coffers)  and  a 
gallery  with  carved  columns  and  corbels.  The  lower  part  of  the  wall  is 
lined  with  beautiful  azulejos,  above  which  are  frescoes.  The  large  paint- 
ings, executed  al  fresco  by  Crittdbal  ZariSkna  and  Peralia  and  afterwards 
varnished,  represent  the  Presidents  of  the  Cortes  (K.  wall),  Ecclesiastical 
Dignitaries  (W.  wall),  and  the  Ifoblesa  Militar  (£.  wall).  The  smaller 
paintings  show  the  deputies  elected  by  the  pueblos  in  1593  and  the  viceroy 
(to  the  left,  in  scarlet-,  1592).  The  first  figure  to  the  left  in  the  painting 
in  the  S.£.  corner  of  the  room  is  said  to  be  Zarinena  himself.  .According 
to  an  inscription  on  the  third  column  of  the  gallery  to  the  left,  the  wood 
carvings  were  finished  in  1561.  —  The  Libbabt  contains  interesting  MSB. 
In  the  Gafxlla  db  la  Vxbgbn  are  a  few  works  by  Zwharan* 

Fiom  tbe  Audiencia  we  proceed  to  the  W.,  thiough  the  Galle  de 
Caballeros,  to  the  church  of  San  Babtolomi^  (PI.  D,  3),  which  was 
erected  in  1239  on  the  site  of  the  pie-Moresqne  Capilla  del  Scmto 
SepuZcro,  It  was,  however,  rebuilt,  with  the  exception  of  the  fine 
bell-tower,  in  1666.  To  the  N.W.  of  this  church  lies  the  busy  Calls 
DB  Sebbanos  (pi.  C,  D,  3,  2),  at  the  end  of  which,  near  the  Pueita 
de  Serranos  (p.  261),  the  Oalle  de  Roteros  diverges  to  the  left  and 
leads  past  the  church  of  Santa  Cms  to  the  — 

*Xn8eo  Provincial  de  Pintnras  (PI.  B,  2).  The  museum 
occupies  the  former  Convento  del  Carmen^  and  is  entered  by  the 
second  large  door,  inscribed  Escuela  Oeneral  de  Bellas  Artes.  It  is 
open  for  a  fee  of  50  c.  on  week-days,  9-4  (Mon.  1-4),  and  free  on 
Sun.,  10-2  (June-Sept.  8-12).  There  is  no  catalogue.  —  Besides 
a  few  modem  pictures  and  a  small  archaBological  collection,  the 
museum  contains  about  1500  older  paintings,  chiefly  from  the  sup- 
pressed convents  of  Valencia.  There  are  comparatively  few  works 
of  great  importance,  but  nowhere  else  can  one  obtain  so  compre- 
hensive a  survey  of  the  Valencian  School,  which  includes  such 
eminent  masters  as  Vicente  Juanes  Macip  (1523-96),  Francisco 
Bibalta  (155?-1628),  the  'Painter  of  San  Vicente  Ferrer*,  Josef 
Ribera  QLo  Spagnoletto* ;  1588-1656),  Jacinto  Jerdnimo  Espinosa 
(1600-1680),  and  Pedro  Orrente  (d.  1644).   Comp.  p.  Ixix. 

The  Wbst  Gloisteb,  which  we  enter  fln>t,  conttans  three  palms  sud 
to  be  150  years  old.  In  the  corridors  are  a  few  plaster  casts  and  worth- 
less pictures.  —  To  the  right  is  the  — 

East  Gloxstbb,  entirely  remodelled  in  1890.  The  corridors  contain 
insignificant  pictures.  —  The  central  part  has  been  converted  into  a  Boom, 
lighted  from  the  roof  and  containing  the  masterpieces  of  the  School  of 
Valencia.  We  begin  on  the  B.  wall,  to  the  left.  Vicente  Juanes  MaeiPp  678. 
Betrothskl  of  St.  Agnes;  '^599.  Ecce  Homo*,  *No  number,  The  Saviour; 
*626.  Assumption,  distinguished  for  its  beautiful  angels*  heads  and  for  the 
vigour  of  its  colouring  against  the  light  golden-toned  background.  No 
number,  ZariSlenay  SS.  fJohn  and  Peter;  no  number,  Juanet,  SS.  Vincent 
Ferrer  and  Vincent  the  Martyr,  with  God  the  Father  above;  •518.  F^vm- 
Cisco  Ribalta^  St.  Francis  embracing  the  cruciQed  Saviour,  recalling  Mu- 
rillo's  picture  at  Seville  (p.  415);  no  number.  Franc.  Ribalta,  Virgin  and 
Child  enthroned  (injured);  515.  ZariSiena^  St.  John  the  Evangelist  and  the 
two  Maries;  no  number,  Eapinosa^  Christ  appearing  to  St.  Peter  Nolasco, 
Death  of  St.  Louis  Beltram,  Holy  Family;  F.  Bibalta,  646.  St.  Paul,  656. 
St.  Peter,  699.  St.  Bruno;  617.  Juan  Ribalta,  Crucifixion.  —  West  wall: 
688.   Franc.   Ribdlta,    John  the  Baptist.    Ribera ^  655.  St.  Theresa;  602. 


Mv$eo  Jhrovincial,  VALENCIA.  S6,  RouU,   261 

Si.  J«rome|  *689.  MartTrdom  of  81  SebMtlan.  frtme,  Ribatta^  no  number, 
CrndOzion;  611.  Coronation  of  the  Virgin;  702.  Lut  Sapper.  E^i>inoia^ 
146.  St.  Lonii  of  Toalonse;  587.  Portrait  of  Jerdnimo  Mos)  160.  Mass  of 
St.  Peter  Nolasco;  606.  Commnnion  of  the  Magdalen.  679,  330,  669,  661. 
E$t£b<m  March ^  Battle-scenes-,  790.   VieenU  Lopet^  Portrait  of  Vicente  Blascu. 

The  East  Room  (left)  contains  older  pictures  (14-i6th  cent ).  N.  end 
wall:  BO  nomber,  1%  ih$  tiyU  ^  Fra  Angelieo  da  Fieioky  Large  altar-piece 
with  scenes  from  the  life  of  Christ.  Back-wall :  Unknown  Italian  Matter 
of  the  15th  eent.^  Four  panels  with  the  Doubting  Thomas,  the  Miraculous 
Draught  of  Fishes,  the  Resurrection,  and  the  Risen  Christ  appeating  to 
the  Vixgin.  —  The  Wbst  Boom  (right)  has  paintings  of  the  lo-16th  cen- 
turies. On  the  left  end-wall:  Winged  altar-piece  by  an  Unknown  Sjxtnish 
Mooter  (16th  cent.).  Bear-wall:  6^.  Mabuu  (?),  Adoration  of  the  Child; 
657.  Vntnown  ItaUan  Matter  (ca.  1600),  Holy  Family;  no  number,  Fin- 
liiricefttff,  Virgin  and  Child,  with  the  pious  donor,  Card.  Bodrigo  Borgia 
(p.  269);  Hiorowymtte  BoKh  CEl  Botco')^  Crown  of  Thorns,  Scourging  of 
(Jhrist,  the  Mt.  of  Olives  (copies).  Right  end-wall:  Altar  of  St.  Thecla, 
by  a  Spanish  Maeter  of  the  16  th  century. 

South-East  <^ubb  Book  (Angvlo  J):  686.  Frcmc.  RibaUa^  Portrait  of 
a  man&  674.  VeUuguee^  Portrait  of  himself  (copy);  Ooya^  260,  676.  Bayeu 
the  painter  and  Bafael  Ssteve  the  engraver;  &SA.  Claudio  Coello,  Portrait 
of  a  man.  Also  a  few  unimportant  Flemish  works  of  the  17th  century. 
-—  NoBTH-£asT  CoBMSB  BooM  (Anguto  I  J):  *621.  Juanee^  The  Saviour; 
cabinet -pieces  by  Zar^iena  and  others.  —  Xorth-West  Cobnkb  Book 
(Angvlo  III):  612.  Juane$^  Last  Supper;  several  works  by  Ptdro  Orrente.  — 
Socth-Wbst  Cobnkb  Rook  (Angulo  IV):  504.  In  the  style  of  Farmiffkmino, 
661.  School  of  Leonardo  da  Vinei,  663.  Andrea  del  Sarto  (?),  Virgin  and 
Child;  383.  Correggio^  Holy  Family  (copy).  —  The  door  opposite  the  N.E. 
Corner  Boom  leads  to  the  — 

Sal6v  db  Jomtab,  the  council-room  of  the  Academy.  Among  the  por- 
traits (retratoe)  here  is  one  of  Ferdinand  VII.  (No.  766),  which  is  of  great 
value  in  throwing  light  on  the  character  of  this  prince.  —  We  return  to 
the  vestibule  of  the  cloisters  and  pass  to  the  right  into  the  — 

*BooK  OP  MoDBBir  PiCTUBBs.  Bight  side:  Frcmdeeo  Dominyo^  The  last 
day  of  Sagunto  (p.  249);  Joaquin  Sorolla,  £1  Palleter;  Ignatio  Pinato^  Death 
of  James  I.  of  Aragon,  Landing  of  the  ciptive  Francis  1.  of  France  at 
Valencia;  Franc.  Domingo^  St.  Thecla,  St.  Marianus;  Bern.  Ferrandig,  Tri- 
bunal of  the  Waters  (p.  259) ;  Salvador  Abril^  On  the  open  sea.  —  East 
end :  *Josi  Benlliure^  The  Vision  of  the  Colosseum,  representing  a  ghostly 
procefsioa  of  all  the  Christian  martyrs,  marshalled  by  St.  Almachius 
(d.  404),  the  last  of  their  niunber.  —  West  end:  Franc.  Atnirigo^  Sacking 
of  Borne  in  1627. 

Adjacent,  to  the  left,  Is  the  Abgkaological  Collbotxon.  Archi- 
tectural fragments;  alabaster  figure  of  Hugo  de  Moncada,  from  the  former 
Convento  del  Bemedio  (16th  cent.):  statue  of  Miguel  Amador  (i7th  cent.); 
wooden  group  of  Virgin  and  Child  (l5th  cent.);  alabaster  statue  of  St.  Vin- 
cent the  Martyr,  from  the  Monasterio  de  la  Boqueta  (16th  cent.) ;  copy  of  the 
Virgin  of  Montserrat  (p.  224);  cannon  (15th  cent.),  cannon  balls,  and  anchor 
found  at  El  Grao;  marble  relief  of  St.  George  (16th  cent.):  early-Christian 
sarcophagus  from  the  Convent  of  Santo  Domingo  (5th  cent.). 


The  ♦Puerta  de  Berranos  (Torres  de  Serranos;  PI.  C,  D,  2),  the 
old  N.  gate  of  the  city,  is  an  interesting  structure  of  the  second  half 
of  the  14th  century.  It  has  long  been  used  as  a  prison,  but  it  has 
recently  been  restored  and  freed  of  disfiguring  additions.  It  is  best 
seen  from  the  Puente  de  Serranos  or  the  pretty  paseo  of  the  same  name. 

Two  massive  crenelated  towers  flank  a  central  structure,  the  beautiful 
Gothic  tracery  of  which  is  admirable.  The  towers  are  rectangular  in 
plan,  but  ttie  edges  of  their  river-faces  have  been  chamfered  off  so  as  to 
make  a  triangle.  About  two-thirds  of  the  way  up  a  kind  of  gallery,  sup- 
ported on  corbels,  is  carried  round  the  exposed  sides  of  the  gateway,  but 


262  Boute  25.  VALENCIA.  Citadel. 

•erres  (rather  as  an  architectural  ornament  than  for  any  more  formidable 
purpose.  A  second  gangway  i  runs  higher  up  along  the  central  structure 
and  enters  the  towers  by  doors.  The  actual  archway  is  comparatively  low. 

The  broad  bed  of  the  Turia  is  usually  dry.  Beyond  it  we  tra- 
verse the  Arrabal  de  Murviedro  to  (12  min.)  the  Hieronymite  convent 
of  San  Miguel  de  los  Reyes^  founded  by  the  Duqne  de  Calahria  in 
1641  and  now  the  Presidio  (prison). —  A  little  lower  down  the  river, 
beyond  the  Puente  de  la  Trinidadj  built  in  1356,  stands  the  Hospital 
Militar  (PI.  E,  1),  occupying  the  old  Convento  de  San  -Pio  Quinto. 
The  dome  is  covered  with  beautiful  azulejos. 

We  follow  the  right  bank.  Immediately  to  the  right  is  the  Colegio 
de  Loreto  (PI.  E,  2);  farther  on  are  the  church  of  the  Trinitarioa 
and  the  Temple  (PI.  F,  2).  The  last  was  built  for  the  Templars  on 
the  site  of  the  Moorish  Alibufat  (?),  on  which  the  Spaniards  first 
erected  the  cross,  and  was  afterwards  occupied  by  the  Order  of  Mon- 
tesa  (p.  270).  In  the  reign  of  Charles  III.  it  was  practically  rebuilt. 

A  little  farther  on  is  the  Puente  del  Real  (PI.  F,  G,  1),  the  Moorish 
Jerea  ('bridge  of  the  law'),  a  massive  stone  bridge  with  ten  openings. 
It  leads  to  the  tree-shaded  Llano  del  Real  (PI.  F,  2).  Adjacent 
are  two  artificial  hills,  overgrown  with  rank  vegetation  and  forming 
the  only  remains  of  the  Jardin  del  Realj  which  was  attached  to  a 
small  royal  villa.  —  At  the  Llano  del  Real  begins  the  Alameda 
(PI.  G,  H,  I,  1),  an  avenue  of  plane-trees,  which  extends  down  the 
river  to  the  (i^  M.)  Puente  del  Mar  and  forms  the  fashionable  after- 
noon-drive of  the  Valencians.  At  both  ends  of  it  are  fountains.  — 
We  may  now  take  the  tramway  vilt  the  Puente  del  Mar  to  the  Glo- 
rieta  (see  below),  or  we  may  return  via  the  Puente  del  Real. 

In  the  Plaza  de  Tbtuan  (PI.  G,  2),  formerly  named  the  Plaza 
de  Santo  Domingo ^  lies  the  old  Citadel,  built  by  Charles  V.  to  pro- 
tect the  town  against  the  pirate  Barbarossa.  It  incorporated  the 
convent  of  Santo  Domingo ,  founded  by  Jaime  I.,  and  was  almost 
destroyed  by  Suchet  in  1812.  The  finest  parts  remaining  are  the 
Doric  portal  and  the  tower,  with  its  graceful  upper  stage.  The  ex- 
tensive buildings  enclose  two  or  three  attractive  patios  and  are  used 
for  an  arsenal,  artillery  barracks,  and  the  dwelling  of  the  Captain 
General.  The  Capilla  Castrence  is  an  interesting  castle-like  building, 
with  alabaster  windows  and  the  castrum  (catafalque)  of  Marshal 
Roderigo  Mendoza  (d.  1654)  and  his  wife.  The  buildings  also  include 
the  Capilla  de  San  Vicente  Ferrer,  where  that  saint  assumed  the  cowl. 
The  inscriptions  on  the  outside  refer  to  the  Morosco,war  (1869-60) 
and  to  St.  Vincent  Ferrer. 

The  Casa  Natalizia,  or  house  in  which  St.  Vincent  was  born  (1419 ; 
canonized  1455) ,  is  at  Calle  del  Mar  117  and  has  been  converted  into  a 
chapel.  —  In  the  church  of  San  E$t4ban  (PI.  E,  2)  the  anniversary  of  the 
baptism  of  the  saint  (April  5th)  is  celebrated  on  the  Sun.  after  Easter  by 
the  erection  of  a  large  group  of  figures. 

The  Plaza  de  Tetuan  is  adjoined  on  the  S.E.  by  the  Olorieta 
\.  G,  H,  3),  a  charming  pleasure-ground  laid  out  by  Elio  in  1817 


Lonja  de  Id  Seda,  VALENCIA.  25.  Route.    263 

on  the  site  of  the  old  glacis,  and  planted  with  palms,  pines,  and 
araacarias.  There  are  also  a  drinking-spring  and  an  entranoe-arch 
of  bamboo  (W.  side).  —  The  Tobacco  Faotoet  (PI.  H,  3),  on  the 
8.E.  side  of  the  Glorieta,  built  for  a  custom-house  in  1758,  is  one 
of  the  largest  in  Spain,  employiog  3600  women,  most  of  whom  are 
very  expert  in  rolling  cigars  (adm.  on  application  to  the  porter). 

To  the  S.  of  the  Qlorieta  lies  another  garden  named  the  Plaza 
DEL  Pbincipb  Alfonso  (PI.  G,  H,  3),  which  is  embellished  with  a 
bronze  Equestrian  Statue  of  James  I.  ofAragon  (1213-76),  by  Agapito 
Vallmitjana  (1891).  —  From  this  plaza  the  Calle  de  la  Nave  leads 
to  the  S.W.  to  the  Plaza  del  Colegio  del  Patriaroa  (p.  266),  and  the 
Plaza  and  Calle  de  las  Barcas  to  the  Plaza  de  San  Francisco  (p.  255), 
while  the  Calle  del  Poeto  QuinUna  runs  to  the  S.£.  to  the  Calls 
DE  CoLdN  (PI.  H,  4,  6,  6),  forming  part  of  the  ring  of  boulevards 
mentioned  at  p.  256.   Near  its  S.  end  is  the  Plaza  de  Tores  (p.  265). 


Our  walk  through  the  S.W.  quarters  of  the  city  may  be  begun  at 
the  FlaiA  del  Mereado  (PI.  D,  K,  4,  5 ),  the  largest  aud  most  inter- 
esting of  the  open  spaces  of  Valencia.  It  is  always  more  or  less 
frequented,  and  the  picturesque  costumes  of  the  peasantry  of  the 
neighbourhood  may  be  seen  here  to  great  advantage  during  the 
morning  markets.  It  was  formerly  the  scene  of  tournaments  and 
festivals,  and  many  notable  events  are  connected  with  it.  It  was  here 
that  the  Cid,  mindless  of  his  oath,  caused  Ahmed  Ibn  Djihdf  to  be 
burned  alive,  because  he  would  not  reveal  the  spot  where  King 
Yahya  had  buried  his  treasures.  The  best  general  view  is  obtained 
from  the  S.E..  comer.  —  On  the  N.  side  of  the  plaza  stands  the  — 

*Loiija  de  la  8eda  (PI.  D,  4;  'Silk  Exchange]),  a  beautiful 
Gothic  building,  erected  by  Pedro  Compte{'i)  in  1482  and  restored 
in  1892-96.  The  site  is  that  of  the  Moorish  Alcazar,  built  by  a 
daughter  of  King  Al-Hoikim  aud  afterwards  occupied  by  Ximena,  wife 
of  the  Cid.  The  richly  decorated  Maim  Fa9adb  is  178  ft.  long  and 
is  divided  vertically  into  three  sections.  In  the  middle  rises  a  kind 
of  tower,  with  two  Gothic  windows,  the  lower  of  which  is  pointed, 
the  upper  square-headed.  To  the  E.  of  this  central  tower  lies  the  ' 
part  of  the  building  containing  the  main  hall  (p.  264),  with  a 
large  gateway  and  two  windpws.  Above  the  windows  are  coats- of- 
arms,  and  at  the  top  are  battlements  and  four  artistic  gargoyles  (gur^ 
gokui).  The  W.  part  of  the  facade  has  two  rows  of  square-headed 
Gothic  windows,  with  four  in  each.  Above  is  an  elegant  gallery, 
with  a  frieze  of  heads ;  and  at  the  top  are  crown-like  battlements 
and  three  gargolas.  The  openings  of  the  gallery  are  'pierced  in  a 
sort  of  continuous  arcading,  the  pinnacles  of  which  run  up  to  and 
finish  in  the  parapet*.  —  The  West  Building  contains  the  dwelling 
of  the  castellan  (alcaide)  and  the  council-room  of  the  Chamber  of 
Commerce,  containing  a  few  royal  portraits  and  a  deeply  coffered 


264   Bouie  25.  VALENCIA.  San  Nieolds, 

wooden  ceiling.  Here  also  are  the  chamber  of  the  Juzgados  Comtuv- 
aZe9,  and  a  court  and  orange  -  garden ,  surrounded  by  walls  with 
beautiful  ajimez  windows  and  crenelated  battlements.  —  The  entire 
height  and  depth  of  the  East  Building  is  occupied  by  the  ♦•Ex- 
CHAKOB  Hall,  which  is  118  ft.  long  and  70  ft.  wide.  Its  rich  star 
vaulting  is  borne  by  two  rows  of  spiral  pillars  (eight  in  all),  to  which 
correspond  twelve  pilasters  embedded  in  the  walls.  The  whole 
makes  an  impression  of  exceeding  boldness,  lightness,  and  elegance ; 
and  the  columns  look  like  a  stone  forest  of  palms.  —  The  side 
facades  of  the  Lonja  on  the  E.  and  W.  also  repay  inspection. 

A  little  to  the  N.  of  the  Lonja  (Galle  Angosta  de  la  Compania  2)  lies 
the  Archive  General  del  Beino  de  Valencia  ^  contaioiDg  an  important  collec- 
tion of  charters  and  documents  (open  on  week-days,  9-1).  —  The  church 
of  Los  Scmioe  Juanet  (PI.  D,  4,  5),  on  the  8.  side  of  the  Mercado,  opposite 
the  Lonja,  has  a  ceiling-painting  by  Falomino  and  some  rococo  decora- 
tions, but  hardly  repays  a  visit. 

The  narrow  streets  to  the  N.W.  of  the  Mercado  lead  through  the 
oldest  part  of  Valencia  to  the  church  of  Ban  HicoUs  (PI.  C,  D,  4), 
originally  a  mosque,  as  is  easily  seen  in  the  curious  ceiling.  It  has, 
however,  been  spoiled  by  modem  additions.  The  frescoes  are  by 
Dionis  Vidal^  a  pupil  of  Palomino.  The  large  gilded  retablo  and  the 
stained-glass  windows  are  also  interesting,  but  the  prime  reason  for 
a  visit  to  this  church  is  found  in  the  ♦Paintings  of  Juanes,  Over 
the  altar  to  the  left  of  the  high-altar  are  a  Last  Supper  (under  glass) 
and  eight  smaller  pictures.  Those  at  the  right  side-altar  are  also  by 
Juanes,  but  partly  executed  by  his  pupils.  Other  works  of  his  are 
seen  at  an  altar  in  one  of  the  aisles,  and  in  the  sacristy  are  half- 
lengths  of  Christ  and  the  Virgin.  Above  the  W.  door  of  the  church 
is  a  portrait  of  Pope  Calixtus  III.  (p.  269),  once  one  of  the  clergy  of 
the  church  and  donor  of  the  silver  Chalice  kept  in  the  sacristy. 

The  Galle  db  Gaballebos  (p.  260),  to  the  N.W.  of  San  Nicolas, 
and  its  S.W.  prolongation,  the  Calls  db  Guabtb  (PI.  C,  B,  4,  5), 
contain  a  number  of  inteiesUTig  Private  Residences,  the  external  archi- 
tecture of  which  may  be  easily  studied  by  passing  through  the  ever- 
open  portal  and  vestibule  (zaguan)  into  the  patio.  The  latter  is  often 
oval  in  form  and  surrounded  by  a  colonnaded  gallery.  Imposing 
staircases  ascend  to  the  upper  floors. 

The  Galle  de  Cuarte  leads  to  the  S.W.  to  the  Faerta  de  Cuarte 
(^Torres  de  Cuarte;  PI.  B,  5),  the  old  W.  door  of  Valencia,  a  massive 
structure  erected  in  1444 ,  or  about  a  century  later  than  the  Puerta 
de  Serranos.  It  resembles  the  latter  in  plan  and  is  also  used  as  a 
prison.  The  two  outer  towers  are  here  replaced  by  semicircular  cubes  j 
and  the  gallery  supported  by  corbels  runs  along  the  central  structure 
only.  The  two  towers,  with  their  small  openings,  are  also  surmounted 
by  passages  for  the  use  of  the  defenders. 

A  few  hundred  paces  to  the  S.W.  lies  the  Jardin  Botinico 
(PI.  A,  6,  6 ;  adm.  free,  fee  to  the  conserje  30  c),  which  shows  a  fine 
irray  of  sub-tropioal  plants,  such  as  the  Polygala  grandiflora  and  P. 


Exeursiom.  VALENCIA.  25.  RouU,    265 

fpedota  (beantiful  violet  blossoms  in  MaTch),  Araueafia  exeelsa^  A, 
Cookii,  YueeafilamaUota^  CoccolohapeUata^  Eucalyptua  glohului,  etc. 
T^e  Calls  ds  Odillxm  dk  Castbo,  running  paet  the  Puerta  de  Guarie 
and  forming  the  S.W.  part  of  the  ring  of  boulevards  (p.  255),  is  uninter- 
esting, aa  are  its  prolongation  the  Calle  de  JJLtiva  and  the  poor  S.  parts 
of  the  city  generally.  —  A  little  to  the  V.  of  the  first-named  street  (at 
Vo.  16  Galle  del  Hospital)  lies  the  Boepital  Frovineial  (PI.  D,  £,  7),  erected 
in  1494  for  foundlings,  the  sick,  and  the  mentally  afflicted.  —  To  the  £. 
of  this  building,  in  the  Plaza  Porteria  de  San  Agustin,  is  the  Preaidio  de 
Baa  AfuatlB  (PI.  E,  7),  a  model  penitentiary,  founded  in  1887  by  Mcmua 
liomteMnoM,  It  may  be  visited  between  eleven  and  one,  on  application  to 
the  Director.  The  Cuarto  Sectoral  contains  a  few  pictures  by  RibaUOy  in- 
cluding one  representing  St.  Thomas  of  Yillanueva,  the  founder  of  the 
Augustine  CoUege,  in  the  midst  of  his  popils.  The  tomb  of  the  saint  is 
in  the  chnreh  of  San  AgtuUn  (PI.  F,  7).  —  To  the  S.  of  the  CaUe  de  J4tiva, 
beyond  the  railway,  stands  the  Bull  King  (Plata  de  Torot;  PI.  G,  H,  6,  7), 
erected  in  1867-60  and  accommodating  17,0()0  spectators. 


Excursions. 

1.  SI  Oxao  {grcidus^  the  ^step'  to  the  sea),  tbe  celebrated  but 
rather  uninteresting  harbour  of  Valencia,  lies  on  the  N.  side  of  the 
mouth  of  the  Turia.  It  may  be  reached  either  by  BAiL>YAy  (3  M. ; 
trains  nearly  every  hour;  fares  90,  60,  30  c;  comp.  p.  252)  or  by  the 
Stbam  Tbaitwat  mentioned  at  p.  263  (2^/4  M.).  The  latter  runs 
from  the  Plaza  de  Tetuan  across  the  Puente  del  Real  and  through  the 
Alameda.  Farther  on  it  is  generally  shaded  by  plane-trees  and  af- 
fords pleasant  views  of  alquerioB  (country-houses),  manufactories, 
and  the  straw-roofed  chotas  of  the  peasants.  The  termini  of  both 
railway  and  tramway  lie  in  the  little  town  of  Vitlanuevo  del  (Trao, 
to  the  S.W.  of  the  harbour.  —  At  the  Harbour  itself,  which  is  shel- 
tered by  two  huge  moles  (muelles;  good  views),  are  the  two  sea- 
bathing resorts  of  La  Florida  and  La  Esirella  (comp.  p.  253).  In  the 
'temporada'  or  season  (mid-June  to  Oct)  a  horse-tramway  (10  c.) 
runs  to  the  N.  from  the  terminus  of  the  steam- tram  way  to  (2/3  M.) 
the  Cabaiial  (Pueblo  Nuevo  del  Mar),  a  village  built  solely  for  the  use 
of  bathers  and  containing  the  establishment  Las  Arenas  (see  p.  253). 
The  chief  festival  of  the  village  takes  place  on  St.  John's  Eve. 

2.  The  Albafera  max  be  \isited  either  from  station  SiUa  (p.  268; 
8  M.,  in  1/2  lir. ;  fares  1  p.  66,  1  p.  20,  70  c.)  by  Boat,  or  (better) 
from  Valencia  by  Tartana  (I3/4  hr. ;  fare,  see  p.  253).  —  The  road, 
which  is  shadeless  and  hardly  practicable  after  rain,  leads  from  the 
Puente  del  Mar  (p.  262)  past  the  Convento  de  Monte  Oliveto,  which 
has  been  converted  into  a  barrack.  (Hard  by  is  a  Ventorillo^  where 
wine  for  the  trip  may  be  procured.)  It  then  continues  down  the 
right  bank  of  the  Turia,  turning  to  the  right  at  (20  min.)  the  cross 
roads.  Soon  after  we  come  in  sight  of  the  Canal  de  Isabella  Segunda, 
which  leads  to  the  Albufera.  The  curious  marshy  smell  of  the  lake 
is  distinctly  perceptible ;  the  monotonous  landscape  recalls  the  marsh 
lands  of  N.  (Jermany.  We  Anally  reach  the  Dehesa  (p.  266)  and 
(5^2  M.)  Bal^r,  a  fishing-village  connected  with  the  Albufera  by  the 


266  Route  25.  VALBNGIA.  Excursions. 

aboye- named  canal.  —  Fiom  this  point  the  traveller  should  not 
neglect  to  make  a  trip  by  boat  (2-3  p.  per  hr. ;  bargain  necessary) 
to  the  Mata  del  Fang  (see  below).  The  scenery  is  very  singular.  At 
one  time  we  traverse  vast  tracts  of  reeds,  at  another  we  enjoy  un- 
impeded views  of  the  mountains  to  the  S.  (Yirgen  de  Cull4ra, 
Mongdy  Sierra  de  las  Agujas)  and  to  the  W.,  where  the  sharp-pointed 
Picaseni  is  conspicuous.  Valencia  with  its  numerous  domes  is  also 
visible.  To  the  N.  we  descry  Sagunto  and  the  Desierto  de  las  Palmas 
(p.  247).  The  sea  is  hidden  by  the  Dehesa.  —  If  time  permit,  we 
should  also  walk  across  the  Dehesa  to  (20  min.)  the  sea-shore.  The 
sand-dunes  are  covered  with  sea -pines  (Pinus  maritima),  broom, 
and  sand-plants.  The  Winter  Beach  (^^uatenus  hibenms  fluctus 
maximus  excurrit*)  stretches  far  up  the  low  sandy  shore. 

The  Albufera  (Arab.  al-huhSra,  lagoon)  is  the  last  relic  of  the  sea  that 
once  covered  the  coast-plain  of  Valencia  (comp.  p.  241),  but  its  waters 
have  long  been  fresh.  On  the  landward  side  its  curving  outline  is  15- 
18  M.  long  and  is  bordered  by  reed-banks  and  rice-swamps*,  its  seaward 
side  forms  a  straight  line  of  about  10  M.  in  length  and  is  divided  from 
the  sea  by  the  Deheta^  a  narrow  strip  of  land  6-20  ft.  high.  About  6  M . 
to  the  S.  of  Sal^r  (p.  265)  the  Albufera  is  connected  with  the  sea  by 
the  canal  of  PereW^  which  may  be  closed  at  will.  The  village  of  Fdtomdr 
lies  on  this  part  of  the  Dehesa.  The  Acequia  del  Rey^  an  outlet  of  the 
Turia,  and  other  small  channels  are  constantly  conveying  fresh  water 
into  the  Albufera,  the  depth  of  which  varies  from  3  ft.  to  12  ft.  according 
to  the  season.  Kear  the  middle  of  the  lake  is  La  Mata  cM  Fang^  a  shoal 
overgrown  with  reeds.  The  Albufera  contains  numerous  fish,  especially 
eels  (anffuiku)^  which  are  caught  in  peculiar  nets  (tnometts)  and  pierced 
with  many-pronged  harpoons  (fiiora*).  Large  flocks  of  ducks  and  other 
waterfowl  also  haunt  the  lake.  The  Dehesa  is  almost  entirely  covered 
with  woods,  which  shelter  rabbits  (conejot)  and  woodcocks  (ffoWnekUy 
chochas).  —  To  the  S.  of  the  Albufera  lie  the  towns  of  CuUira  and  Sueca 
(see  p.  268).  To  the  W.  of  it,  but  at  some  distance,  lie  the  villages  of 
Albalat  de  la  Ribera^  Masanaaa^  Akntnqfet,  Benifojfdj  BiUa,  Catarroja,  and 
Alfafar  (p.  265).  Host  of  the  inhabitants  of  these  ^rice-viUages'  cultivate 
rice  and  suffer  greatly  from  malarial  fever.  Farther  to  the  W.  the  chief 
crop  is  wheat.  Large  water-wheels  are  used  to  drain  the  land  near  the 
lake.  In  summer  the  mosqiutoes  are  rery  troublesome.  —  Originally  the 
Albufera  belonged  to  the  Covmit  de  Uu  Torret^  afterwards  it  passed  into  the 
hands  of  the  crown,  and  at  the  beginning  of  the  19th  cent,  it  was  conferred 
upon  the  'Prince  of  the  Peace'  (p.  121).  In  1812  Napoleon  presented  it  to 
Marshal  Sachet,  who  also  received  the  title  of  Due  de  Albufera.  At  pre- 
sent it  is  once  more  the  property  of  government  but  has  been  leased  to 
a  company  at  Valencia,  which  has  an  office  at  Sal^r  and  a  number  of 
shooting-stations  (pueitos  de  yerros)  on  the  lake.  On  Nov.  11th  and  Nov. 
25th  the  shooting  on  the  lake  is  free  to  all  (comp.  p.  254);  at  other  times 
permission  must  be  obtained  from  the  Jntendente  del  Real  Pairimonio  in 
Valencia.  The  value  of  the  Albufera  is  estimated  at  10,000,000  p.  (400,000  /.). 

3.  Manises  lies  3  M.  to  the  W.  of  Valencia,  on  the  dusty  and 
uninteresting  road  to  Chiva  and  Requena.  It  may  be  reached  either 
by  carriage,  via  Mislata^  or  by  the  narrow-gauge  railway  to  Liria 
(p.  252  J  41/2  M.  in  V4  hr.  5  fares  66,  50,  30  c).  The  village  contains 
about  a  score  of  azulejo  factories,  employing  1600  workmen,  and 
visitors  are  usually  admitted  (fee  to  guide  1  p.). 

The  tawny  clay  used  in  the  manufacture  otAtvIeJoi  (p.  xzxviii)  is  dug  at 

"'<"1ata  and  ground  dry  in  a  mill.    It  is  then  placed  in  flat  iron  moulds  or 

and  receives  a  stamp  (timbre)  from  the  pressure  of  a  fly-wheel  (vo- 


ExeurnoriB,  VALENCIA.  26,  BouU.   267 

kmt§).  The  unbaked  aznl^os  are  next  removed  from  the  moulds  and  fired 
(qtumado)  for  16-17  hrs.  in  an  oven.  They  are  then  rubbed  with  starch 
(lour  (hctrina  de  abnoddm).  When  this  dries,  they  are  coated  with  a  fluid  glase 
or  varniah  (banUs  enido)^  consisting  of  a  mixture  of  tin  ashes  (esloflo;,  lead 
ashes  (plomo)^  soda  (harriHa)^  and  a  little  sand  (arena  viva).  This  glaze 
forms  an  excellent  surface  for  the  colours,  which  are  applied  by  stenciUing 
(trepat).  The  tiles  are  then  placed  on  end  and  fired  for  60  hrs.  more.  The 
fire  is  fed,  neither  with  coal  nor  dry  wood,  but  with  evergreen  plants 
such  as  broom  (aliaffa)^  lavender,  and  thymes  and  large  heaps  of  this 
singular  fuel  are  seen  on  every  side.  Other  heaps  of  olive-branches  are  used 
for  the  firing  of  bricks  (ladriUot;  roofing  tiles,  tejoi ;  sun-dried  bricks,  adobes). 

4.  Xeliana,  3  M.  to  the  N.  of  Valencia,  on  tbe  narrow  -  gauge 
railway  to  RafeUmnol  (p.  Q52 ;  41/2  M.,  in  1/4  br.;  fares  60,  36, 20  c), 
is  now  sometimes  visited  for  the  sake  of  the  Nolla  Mosaic  Factory. 
The  mosaics  form  admirable  pavements  and  can  also  take  the  place 
of  azolejos  as  wall  linings.  There  is  a  depot  for  their  sale  in  the 
Plaza  del  Colegio  del  Patriaroa  (p.  256).  Those  who  drive  to  Meliana 
pass  the  large  Cemetery  of  Valencia. 

5.  Bnrjaiot,  a  pleasure-resort  21/2  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Valencia, 
a  station  on  the  Betera  railway  (comp.  p.  252 ;  3  M.,  in  ^4  hr. ;  fares 
85,  25,  15  c),  may  be  visited  for  the  sake  of  the  41  Moorish  Maz- 
morrat  (also  called  Sichet  and  Silos')^  used  as  receptacles  for  grain. 
Their  roof,  consisting  of  blue  and  black  flag- stones,  is  used  as  a 
pas^o  or  promenade.  The  mazmorras  themselves  are  underground 
vaults,  resembling  huge  jars  and  lined  with  stone.  —  From  BHera^ 
the  terminus  of  the  railway  (12  M.,  in  1  hr. ;  fares  1  p.  50,  1  p.  10, 
70  c),  we  may  make  an  ex<^urslon  to  the  suppressed  Cartnja  de 
Portacoeli,  which  lies  to  the  N.W.,  in  the  direction  of  Oloeau,  This 
convent  was  founded  by  Bishop  AndrSs  de  AJbalat  in  1272,  amid  the 
recesses  of  the  coast-mountains  of  Valencia,  and  once  possessed  art 
treasures  of  great  value.  Alonso  Cano  retired  to  it  and  painted 
several  of  his  works  here.  The  entire  district,  which  is  famed  for  its 
'vino  rancio',  was  occupied  by  the  Moriscoes  (p.  245)  down  to  1609. 

Excursion  to  Bagunto  and  Segorbe^  see  pp.  248,  251 ;  to  Carcagente,  Oandia^ 
and  DiniOf  see  B.  2(. 

26.  From  Valencia  to  Carcagente  and  La  Encina 
(Madrid,  Cordova  y  Alicante,  Murcia). 

70  H.  Railway  (two  through-trains  daily)  in  41/4-6  hrs.  (fares  13  p.  35, 
10  p.  10,  5  n.  90  c).  There  are  also  two  local  trains  from  Valencia  to 
Jdtiva  (p.  269),  and  one  from  JAtiva  to  La  Encina.  —  Passengers  who  wish 
to  proceed  direct  to  Madrid  (R.  29)  or  vift  Alcdzar  to  Cdrdova  (RR.  29,  33) 
should  take  the  train  leaving  Valencia  at  2.10  p.m.  This  reaches  La  Encina 
(dining  station)  at  6.25  p.m^  ChinchiUa  at  9.18  p.m.,  Alcdzar  (carriages 
changed  for  C6rdova)  at  1.25  a.m.,  Madrid  at  6.36  a.m.,  and  C6rdova  at 
11.7  a.m.  —  The  following  plan  may  he  recommended  for  a  visit  to  Oandia^ 
Dinia  (R.  27),  and  Alicante  (R.  29).  1st  Day.  We  leave  Valencia  at  6  a.m., 
and  CarcagenUy  where  carriages  are  changed,  at  8.5  a.m.,  reaching  J)inia  at 
11.5  a.m.  2nd  Day.  We  leave  D4nia  at  11.45  a.m.  and  reach  Oandia  at 
1.9  p.m.  At  6.82  p.m.  we  start  for  Aletnf^  reaching  it  at  9.1  p.m.  3rd  Day. 
Diligence  from  Alcoy  to  Alicante  (a  charming  drive).  —  With  the  direa 
journey  from  Valencia  to  Alicante  we  may  combine  a  visit  to  Jdtiva.    Leaving 


268   RouU  26.  SILLA.  From  Valencia 

Valencia  at  2.10  p.m.,  we  reach  Jdtiva  at  3.68  p.m.  and  leave  it  again  at 
9.40  p.m.  This  brings  us  at  midnight  to  La  EnciTtOy  whence  we  stMrt 
again  at  2.13  a.m.,  reaching  AUamte  at  5.20  a.m.  (Unrcia  at  9.55  a.m.^.  — 
Those  who  wish  to  go  straight  through  to  Mweia  (R.  91)  should  choose 
the  route  via  CMncMUa.  We  leave  Valencia  at  2.10  p.m.,  reach  CkindtiUa 
(carriages  changed)  at  9.18  p.m.  and  leave  it  at  11  p.m.,  and  reach  Murcia 
at  6.28  a.m.  {Cariagma  at  9  90  a.m.). 

Second-class  and  third-class  passengers  for  Madrid  and  Cdrdova  must 
change  carriages  at  La  Endna  also. 

Valencia^  see  p.  262.  —  The  railway  traverses  the  huerta  towards 
the  S.W.  and  approaches  the  Alhufera  (p.  266)  at  <33/4  M.)  Alfafar. 
Fine  views  are  enjoyed  of  the  mountains  to  the  W. ,  and  of  the 
Sierra  de  las  Agujas^  the  8,  de  CuUira^  and  the  Mongd  to  the  S.  — 
5  M.  Catarroja.  To  the  left  are  the  pine- woods  of  the  Dehesa  (p.  266). 

8  M.  Silla,  a  small  town  of  3800  inhab. ,  with  a  handsome  church 
and  many  palms. 

From  Silla  a  Branch  Railway  (16  M.,  in  iVi  hr. :  fares  3  p.  20,  2  p.  20, 
1  p.  55  c.)  runs  to  the  S.E.,  via  (6  H.)  Soltana  and  (12V2  M.)  Sueca  (12,800 
inhab.),  to  Oullera,  a  town  of  11,400  inhab.,  prettily  situated  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Jdcar  (the  Roman  Sucro\  near  the  promontory  of  its  own 
name.  It  is  dominated  by  a  rained  castle  and  the  conspicuous  chapel  of 
the  Virgm  de  Cullera.  The  road  from  Gullera  to  Tabemes  (p.  271)  is  a 
prolongation  of  the  old  Roman  road  from  Silla  to  Gullera. 

Our  Une  passes  (right)  the  Arab  Torre  de  Espioca  and  reaches 
(13^2  ^O  Btnifayd  de  Espioca,  The  soil  becomes  of  a  reddish- 
brown  colour.  We  cross  the  watershed  between  the  Turia  and  the 
AlgemegC.  —  16  M.  Alginet.  We  traverse  another  Tierra  de  RegadCo 
(p.  244)  and  reach  a  tract  of  rice-flelds  (left).  To  the  E.  we  still 
see  the  Mong6  and  the  Cabo  de  San  Antonio. 

20  M.  Algemes'C,  on  the  river  of  that  name,  which  joins  the  Mcar 
(see  above)  a  little  lower  down.  The  chief  crop  in  this  district  is 
cacao,  sown  in  May  and  reaped  in  October.  To  the  left  rise  the  jag- 
ged and  volcano-like  heights  of  the  Sierra  de  las  Agujas  and  also  the 
Sierra  de  CuUera^  with  the  'Virgen'  (see  above).  Across  the  former 
runs  the  branch-line  to  D^nia.    To  the  right  is  the  Sierra  del  Ave. 

23  M.  Alcira^  a  town  of  15,300  inhab.,  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Jucar,  which  the  railway  crosses  here.  The  fertile  soil  bears  a  great 
many  palms  and  orange-trees ,  but  fever-breeding  rice-swamps  are 
also  prevalent.  A  little  to  the  W.  is  the  village  of  Masalavis  (see 
below).   The  vegetation  increases  in  luxuriance. 

2o  M.  Carcagente,  a  town  of  9600  inhab.,  amid  a  forest  of  orange 
trees  and  palms,  above  which  rise  a  number  of  factory-chimneys, 
looking  curiously  out  of  place.  The .  former  Dominican  Nunr^ry 
contains  a  fine  altar-pieee  by  Fran.  Ribalta.  The  numerous  mulberry 
trees  testify  to  the  silk-culture  of  the  neighbourhood. 

From  Carcagente  to  Diniay  see  R.  27. 

The  main  line  ascends  the  mountain-valley  of  the  Jucar.  To  the 
right  lie  the  rice-flelds  of  Masalavis  and  Alberique  (see  below).  — 
27^2  M.  Puebla  Larga,  the  station  for  Alberique^  which  lies  on  the 
W.  bank  of  the  Jucar. 

3OV2  M.  Manuel.   To  the  right  is  the  Castillo  de  Sentana.    The 


to  La  Eneina,  JATIVA.  2tf.  noute.    269 

train  crosses  the  little  river  Albdida  (p.  274)  by  a  bridge  of  seyen 
arches,  each  52  ft  in  span,  and  then  the  torrent  of  Carraixet  and  the 
Monteea  (p.  270).  To  the  left,  in  a  charming  hnerta,  is  the  Ermita 
de  8anta  Ana,  The  scenery  becomes  piotaresqne  and  imposing. 
^^  36  M.  JitiTft  (Fonda  de  MaUol,  Galle  de  Moncada  30,  vith  oaf<( 
and  baths ;  Fonda  de  Espanaj  near  the  rail,  station  \  Railway  Re- 
8taurant)y  a  town  of  13,100  inhab.,  the  SaetiSds  of  the  Romans  and 
said  to  be  of  Phoenician  origin ,  received  its  present  name  from  the 
Moors.  Its  linen  cloth  is  praised  by  Pliny  and  Martial.  It  was  the 
seat  of  a  Visigothic  bishop.  Jaime  I.  of  Aragon  captured  the  town 
in  1244.  The  first  of  the  Bourbons,  in  consequence  of  its  obstinate 
defence  in  the  War  of  the  Spanish  Succession,  rechristencd  it  San 
FSUpe,  but  the  new  name  did  not  long  remain  in  vogue.  —  Jativa 
was  the  birthplace  of  JuBepe  Bibera  (p.  Mi),  and  it  was  long  the 
home  of  the  notorious  family  of  Borj^  or  Borgia^  which  originated  in 
Borja  (p.  174).  Among  the  most  prominent  members  of  this  family 
were  Alfonao  Borja  (Pope  Galixtus  III. ;  1466-68),  Bod/rigo  Borja 
sPope  Alexander  VI.;  1492-16081  Caesar  (1478-1607),  the  natural 
(on  of  Rodrigo,  and  Luerelia  (1480-1619),  his  natural  daughter.  San 
Frandsco  de  Borja  (1610-72),  Director  General  of  the  Order  of  the 
Jesuits,  was  a  son  of  Juan  Borja^  Duke  of  Gandia  (p.  272),  another 
son  of  Pope  Alexander  VI. 

The  town,  which  is  still  quite  Moorish  in  character  and  was  long 
notorious  for  the  lawlessness  of  its  inhabitants ,  is  finely  situated  at 
the  N.  base  of  the  Monte  Bemisa,  the  two  peaks  of  which  each  bear 
a  castle.  Numerous  fountains,  fed  by  the  springs  of  Bellus  (p.  274) 
and  Santa,  rise  in  all  parts  of  the  town,  and  there  are  said  to  be  600 
in  the  patios  of  the  houses.  The  railway-station  lies  to  the  N.W.,  in 
the  midst  of  the  smiling  huerta,  and  between  it  and  the  town  runs  . 
the  elm-shaded  Alameday  with  the  Fuente  de  Leon.  The  most  char- 
acteristic among  the  quaint  buildings  on  this  avenue  is  the  Nunnery 
of  Santa  Claras  the  barred  windows  and  wooden  shutters  of  which 
are  thoroughly  Oriental  in  appearance. 

On  entering  the  town ,  we  first  wend  oui  way  to  the  Plaza  de 
Balsa,  which  affords  a  fine  view  of  the  high-lying  Castillo.  We 
ascend  across  this  plaza  to  the  Plaza  de  Spanoleto  and  then  proceed 
to  the  left  through  the  Galle  de  Puerta  de  Santa  Tecla  to  the  Plaza 
de  la  Seo,  on  the  W.  side  of  which  is  the  Hospital  Municipal  Civil. 
with  its  rich  fagade.  On  the  E.  side  stands  the  Gothic  GoLEOiATiL 
DB  San  Fbliu,  formerly  the  cathedral ,  erected  in  1414  but  since 
wholly  modernized.  The  W.  facade  has  been  left  unfinished.  To 
the  N.  is  a  large  detached  Campanile, 

The  Iktebios  haa  almost  the  form  of  a  Greek  cross,  in  wMch  the 
transept  is  as  important  as  the  nave.  The  Bigh  Altar  is  adorned  with  fine 
marble  columns  from  the  quarries  of  BuixearrOy  in  the  Sierra  Qro$a^  20  M. 
to  the  S.W.  The  Choir  Screen  should  also  be  noticed.  The  festival  of  the 
Hinojo  (fennel)  is  celebrated  on  Sept.  1st  at  the  Altar  of  iSan  Gil. 

We  now  proceed  to  the  N.,  through  a  bye-street,  to  the  pictui- 


270  Route  26.  MONTESA. 

esque  Callb  de  Monoada,  the  main  thoroughfare  of  the  town, 
containing  the  FaenU  de  M<mcada  and  many  large  mansions  {Casa 
de  Salvador  8a$h8,  Qua  del  Arcon,  etc.),  the  elaborate  door-knockers 
(aniUos)  of  which  deserve  attention.  This  street  leads  to  the  £.  to 
the  OoalOy  a  shady  promenade  with  the  Fibeate  de  lot  Veinte  y  CSmtro 
Canot  ('pipes').  Below  is  a  rice-mill.  —  To  the  E.  of  the  Ovalo 
rises  the  cypress-planted  CcUvariOf  which  is  best  ascended  from  the 
N.  (the  windings  on  the  S.  side  are  interminable).  It  commands  a 
splendid  view  of  the  town,  the  valley,  the  castle  to  the  S. ,  and  the 
precipitous  sides  of  the  Bernisa. 

From  the  Ovale  we  ascend  to  the  *  Gastlb.  About  halfway  up 
lies  the  Ermita  de  San  Feliu  (view),  formerly  a  Mozarabic  church 
(see  p.  243),  with  horseshoe-arches,  ancient  pillars ,  and  the  Roman 
inscription :  FuMo  L,  F,  A  still  more  extensive  view  is  obtained 
from  the  Torre  de  la  Campana,  or  tower  of  the  castle.  The  approach 
to  the  castle,  with  its  walls  and  towers  and  gates,  is  an  interesting 
survival  of  the  Hispano-Mor esque  style  of  fortification.  —  Among 
the  numerous  political  prisoners  confined  in  this  fortress  were  the 
Infantes  de  la  Cerda,  the  legitimate  heirs  to  the  throne  of  Aragon 
but  ousted  by  Sancho  IV.  in  1284 ;  the  Duke  of  Calabria^  Crown 
Prince  of  Naples,  under  Ferdinand  the  Catholic ;  and  Cesa/re  Borgia^ 
imprisoned  here  by  the  *Gran  Capitan'  (p.  309). 

The  Convent  of  Mont  8a»t^  near  the  Ermita  de  San  Feliu,  has  a  Moorish 
cistern. 

We  return  to  the  Ovalo,  and  proceed  to  the  N.  to  the  Alameda 
(p.  269) ,  where  We  soon  reach  the  gate  leading  to  the  railway. 

From  Jitiva  to  Aleoy  and  Alicante^  see  B.  28. 

The  Railway  to  La  Enoina  turns  to  the  S.W.  from  Jativa,  fol- 
lowing the  old^ highroad,  enters  the  valley  of  Mogente^  which  is 
watered  by  the  Montesa^  and  crosses  the  river  by  a  bridge  with  a 
span  of  185  ft.  Retrospect  of  J&tlva.  The  exuberance  of  the  Va- 
lencian  huerta  gradually  diminishes.  We  enter  the  region  of  olives. 

39 V2  M.  AUsadia  de  Creapim.  Near  (43  M.)  Mcmieaa,  to  the  W., 
stands  the  Fitdra  Encantada,  a  'rocking-stone'  weighing  about  250 
tons,  which  may  be  set  in  motion  with  a  finger. 

47  M.  Vallada.  As  we  proceed,  we  see  to  the  right  the  ruins  of 
the  castle  of  Montesa,  which  was  overthrown  by  an  earthquake  in 
1748.  This  castle  gave  its  name  to  the  Order  of  Montesaj  founded 
in  1318  to  succeed  the  Knights  Templar. 

50  M.  Mogente^  a  small  and  ancient  town  founded  by  the  Moors, 
in  a  fruitful  district.  —  The  train  now  ascends  rapidly  along  the  N. 
slope  of  the  MorUana  de  Mariagaj  between  the  Sierra  de  Engvjera  on 
the  N.  and  the  Sierra  Orosa  on  the  S.  Just  before  entering  the 
Mariana  Tunnel  (1  M.  long)  we  have  a  fine  retrospect,  extending 
to  the  distant  coast-plain  of  Valencia.  This  view  is  particularly 
striking  to  the  traveller  coming  in  the  other  direction.    .    . 

62  M.  Fuente  la  Higuera^  a  high-lying  place  with  3300  inhab., 
belonging  geographicajly  to  the  plateau  of  Castile.    The  sudden 


GANDIA.  27.  Route.   271 

transition  from  the  sab- tropical  luxuriance  of  Valencia  to  these 
cold  steppes  is  very  striking  in  winter.  —  The  line  curves  towards 
the  S.  and  then  runs  to  the  N.W.  to  (70  M.)  La  Encina  (p.  279). 

27.  From  Carcagente  (Valencia)  to  Oandia  and  D6nia. 

42  H.  Railway  (two  trams  daily)  in  3-31/4  hrs. ;  fares  6  p.  75,  4  p.  45, 
2  p.  SOe.  (fi^m  Valencia,  67  H.,  in  5  hrs. ;  fares  11  p.  60,  8  p.  5e.,  5  p.). 
There  i§  also  a  local  train  from  Carcagente  to  Qandia.  Good  second-class 
carriages.    "So  railway-restaurant. 

The  scenery  on  this  trip  is  among  the  finest  in  Spain.  The  chief  point 
is  D^nia,  with  the  Mongd.  The  hotels  are,  however,  very  indifferent. 
Those  who  content  themselves  with  Carcagente  and  Gandfa  can  make  the 
excursion  in  one  day. 

From  Valeneia  to  (25  M.)  CarcagerUe,  see  R.  26. 

The  narrow-gauge  railway  to  D^nia  makes  a  wide  sweep  to  the 
S.  through  the  orange-groves  of  Carcagente  and  then  runs  to  the 
S.£.  through  a  mountain- valley  intersecting  the  If.  spurs  of  the 
Sierra  de  las  Agujoi  and  farther  on  descending  towards  the  sea, 
where  it  is  called  the  VaUdigna,  As  we  pass  beyond  the  hounds 
of  artificial  irrigation ,  the  vegetation  becomes  more  scanty.  The 
cultivated  fields  'are  small,  the  trees  are  more  or  less  stunted, 
and  brushwood  abounds.  With  the  exception  of  the  Convenio  de 
Aguaa  Vivas  on  the  height  to  the  right,  the  W.  side  of  the  valley  is 
almost  uninhabited.  We  pass  through  a  rocky  cutting  and  obtain 
a  fine  view  of  the  Valldigna,  with  its  lofty  mountain- walls.  The 
train  skirts  the  N.  side  of  this  valley.  IOV2  M.  Simat  de  Valldigna, 

I2V2  M.  Tahernes  de  VaUdignOj  in  a  charming  and  sheltered 
situation,  artificially  watered  by  a  ^nacimiento\  Large  fields  of 
strawberries  (fresalts).  The  windows  of  the  houses  are  unglazed. 
A  road  runs  from  Tabernes  to  Cullera  (p.  268),  the  walls  of  which 
are  visible  to  the  left,  in  the  distance. 

The  railway  runs  to  the  S.E.  through  a  level  district  of  ri(  e 
fields  (arrozdUsJ.  To  the  left,  1V2-2M.  distant,  is  the  row  of  pines 
marking  the  sea-beach;  to  the  right  are  the  mountains.  We  cross 
the  Jardco.  17  M.  Jaraco;  18  M.  Jeresa.  To  the  right  is  the  Castillo 
de  San  Juan,  This  region  is  watered  by  the  crystal-clear  Fuente  de 
San  Juan,  We  enter  the  fertile  Huerta  of  Oandia,  dominated  by  the 
Ermita  de  Santa  Ana  and  the  peaked  Monduve  or  Monduber  (27^0  ft.). 

22Y2M.  Oftndia  (^Fonda  de  Juan  Besos ;  Brit  vice-consul),  a  town 
of  7200  inhab.,  situated  in  the  richest  and  most  populous  huerta  of 
the  kingdom  of  Valencia,  21/2  M.  from  the  sea.  It  lies  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  little  river  AUoy  or  SirpiSy  which  descends  from  Alcoy 
(p.  274)  and  has  the  small  harbour  of  El  Orao  at  its  mouth. 

From  the  railway-station,  which  lies  to  the  E.  of  the  town ,  we 
proceed  to  the  right,  through  the  gate,  to  the  Colegio  de  Escuela  Pia^ 
founded  by  San  Francisco  de  Borja  (p.  269).  Hence  the  narrow 
Calle  Mayor  leads  to  the  Plaza  de  la  Congtituclon,  in  which  stands 
the  Iglesia  CoUgial^  a  Gothic  structure  without  aisles.   The  W.  and 


272   Route  27.  D^NIA.  From  CareagerUe 

S.  port&ls  are  adorned  with  good  sculptures  in  the  Fiencli  Gothic 
style,  and  the  retablo  of  the  high-altar  contains  paintings  by  Pablo 
deSan  Leocadio  (p.lzx).  —  We  then  pass  to  the  W.  across  another  large 
plaza,  and  farther  on  obtain  a  fine  and  extensive  view  of  the  Jifon- 
tana  de  Borel  and  the  Monduve  (p.  271).  We  next  return  to  the 
S.  to  the  Puerta  de  OUva,  adjoining  which  is  the  former  Palace  of 
the  Bof^aa  (p.  269),  Dukes  of  Gandfa,  with  fine  stucco-work  and 
paintings  by  Gaspar  de  la  Huerta  (d.  1714).  A  few  more  paces 
bring  us  to  the  Bridge  over  the  Alcoy  (view). 

A  Bbangh  Railway  (33  M.,  in  ca.  2  brs.  •,  fares  6  p.  40,  8  p.  80,  2  p.  70  c.) 
runs  from  the  Grao  or  Puerto  di  Oandia  to  Mcoy.  —  The  train  stops  at 
(2V2  M.)  Oandia  and  then  runs  to  the  S.W.  up  the  valley  of  the  Alcoy. 
71/2  M.  Pdtriet;  91/2  M.  ViUaUmga;  171/2  M.  Lcreha;  22  M.  Beniarrii;  27  M. 
J/iuro,  with  2600  inhabitants.  To  the  right  tower  the  sheer  limestone  cliffs 
of  the  *  Sierra  de  BerUeadeU^  singularly  narrow  range  of  hills,  torn  away 
from  the  AquUerU  on  the  S.W.  by  the  deep  fissure  of  the  Puerto  del  Beni- 
cadell  (p.  274).  —  29V2  M.  Ooncentaina^  on  the  highroad  from  Albaida  to 
Alcoy.  ~  83  H.  Aleop,  see  p.  274. 

The  Railw  at  to  D^nia  crosses  the  Alcoy  and  passes  the  villages 
of  Pilos  and  Bellreguwrt.  —  2772  M.  Oliva,  a  town  of  8600  inhab., 
charmingly  situated  on  the  slope  of  the  CoUina  de  Santa  Ana  amid 
groves  of  olives  and  mulberries.  —  To  the  right  are  the  Calvario 
and  the  Ermita  de  San  Pedro.  The  famous  *Pasa8  (raisins)  de  Va- 
lencia* grow  here  and  are  dried  in  the  vineyards  themselves. 

The  train  approaches  the  fine  mountain-range  to  the  S.,  which 
begins  to  the  E.  with  the  Monte  Segdria,  To  the  W.  are  the  Mte.  Ca- 
bal^ the  Mte.  Negro^  and  the  Sierra  de  Ebo,  at  the  foot  of  which  lies  the 
large  village  of  Pego.  The  isolated  Mong6  becomes  more  conspicuous. 

At  (33  M.)  MolinH  the  train  crosses  the  outlet  of  the  small  Logo 
de  Oliva^  a  relic  of  the  sea  that  once  overspread  this  sandy  plain. 
At  (36  M.)  Vergil^  the  first  place  in  the  province  of  Alicante,  begins 
the  road  to  Alcoy.    We  cross  the  Ebo  and  pass  Ondara  (right). 

42  M.  D^nia  (Fonda  del  Comercio;  Fonda  de  la  Marina;  Hot, 
Peninsular;  U.S.  vice-consul,  Anibrosio  Bordehore;  British  vice- 
consul,  Jos,  Ramos  Morand;  Lloyd's  Agents,  Morand  ^  Co,),  a  town 
of  13,500  inhab.,  Is  finely  situated  on  the  £.  and  S.  sides  of  a  hill 
crowned  by  a  ruined  castle.  To  the  S.,  separated  from  the  town  by 
the  valley  of  the  Vergel,  rises  the  Mongis  (2335  ft.),  a  limestone  hill 
rising  gently  from  W.  to  E.  and  then  falling  abruptly  to  the  sea. 
The  flat  roofs  (azoteas)  of  the  houses  afford  excellent  vantage-ground 
for  views  of  the  fine  scenery.  Denia  carries  on  a  brisk  export-trade 
in  raisins,  sent  largely  to  England  and  the  United  States. 

D^nia,  the  ArtWiitiwn  of  the  Greeks  and  the  Dianium  of  the  Romans, 
was  founded  by  Phoceeans  from  Hassilia  (Marseilles)  or  Bmporiee  (p.  18S), 
perhaps  on  the  site  of  an  earlier  Phoeniciaa  colony.  It  soon  attained  so 
great  importance,  that  Sertorius  made  it  his  naval  station  (iSifra&o,  III. 
239).  The  Arabs  under  Tarik  captured  it  in  715,  and  from  1031  on  it 
formed  part  of  the  kingdom  of  Hurcia,  afterwards  Incorporated  with  Va- 
lencia. The  Christians  recaptured  it  in  1253.  Under  the  Moors  Denia  is 
said  to  have  contained  60,1*00  inhab.,  but  its  harbour  has  become  flUed 
with  sand  and  the  ships  have  to  anchor  in  the  unprotected  roads.    The 


to  DefUa.  M^NCK).  27,  Route.    273 

ez^flion  of  Che  MoriMOM  in  1010  wm  also  a  heavy  blow  to  the  town. 
It  waa  thrica  besieged  during  the  War  of  the  Spanish  8ac«es8ion,  and  it 
waa  the  scene  of  the  last  straggles  with  the  French  in  1813.  The  French 
garriaoB  in  the  CasUUo,  reduced  at  last  to  100  men,  withstood  a  bombard- 
ment for  live  months  and  finally  surrendered  on  condition  of  being  allowed 
to  depart  in  freedom. 

From  the  railway-station,  near  which  several  handsome  new 
streets  have  been  laid  ont  on  the  site  of  the  old  fishermen's  quarter, 
we  proceed  first  to  the  Mbkcado,  or  market-place.  We  then  go  on 
towards  the  E.,  passing  the  Casino  Dianense  (left)  and  crossing  the 
Vergel,  to  the  harbour,  where  are  the  remains  of  the  old  Town  WalU^ 
probably  erected  in  the  Arab  period.  Adjacent,  on  the  land  side,  is  a 
modem  signalling-tower  for  vessels  entering  the  port.  It  commands 
an  excellent  view  of  the  Mong6  and  Its  E.  prolongation ,  with  the 
Ca$iUio  dd  Moro,  the  Ermita  de  San  NicoUia,  and  the  Torre  del 
Carroi. 

Skirting  the  harbour,  we  reach  the  E.  base  of  the  castle-hill, 
where  there  is  an  old  and  neglected  bailding,  supposed  to  have  been 
a  Mosquej  with  a  few  colnmng  in  front  of  it  and  eight  octagonal  pil- 
lars and  arches  inside.  On  the  other  side  of  the  street  is  another 
section  of  the  town- wall,  in  a  corner-turret  of  which,  a  little  to  the 
N.,  Is  immured  a  TabUt  with  a  Roman  inscription.  —  By  continuing 
to  skirt  the  castle-hill,  we  pass  the  site  of  the  celebrated  Temple 
of  Diana,  built  in  imitation  of  that  at  Ephesus.  —  We  next  ascend 
the  ♦Castlb  Hill  from  the  W.,  over  rocks  and  fragments  of  ruined 
walls.  At  the  top,  half  concealed  by  vines,  are  ancient  steps,  mosaics, 
and  cells  resembling  casemates.  The  flat,  grass-grown  surface  at  the 
very  top  Is  the  cover  of  a  cistern.  In  spring  the  asphodel  flourishes 
here.  The  view  is  extensive,  especially  towards  evening ;  in  clear 
weather  the  PltyussB  are  visible  to  the  E. 

From  the  castle  we  descend  by  the  same  route  and  proceed  to 
the  S.  to  the  Plaza  Mato&,  with  the  Casa  ConsUtorial  and  the  Jgle- 
nadc  la  Concepcion,  In  the  facade  of  the  former  is  immured  a  Latin 
inscription  f^om  the  Temple  of  Diana.  The  latter  is  a  baroque  edifice, 
with  an  azulejo  dome  and  alabaster  windows.  The  paintings  in  the 
spandrels  of  the  dome  and  at  some  of  the  altars  are  Interesting. 

The  attractive  ascent  of  the  ICongd  is  accomplished  by  the  W. 
side  in  4-6  hrs.  (on  horseback  or  on  foot).  At  the  top  are  the  remains 
of  the  Casa  de  Biot,  where  the  French  physicists  Biot  and  Arago 
made  their  meridional  measurements  in  1806.  The  superb  **View 
extends  on  the  W.  far  into  the  mountains  of  Alicante,  and  on  the 
£.  to  the  Balearic  Isles,  while  towards  the  N.  it  embraces  the  whole 
sweep  of  the  coast  from  Valencia  to  the  mountains  of  Benecasfm 
(p.  247).  —  On  the  steep  N.  slope  of  the  Mong6  is  the  (1  hr.) 
Ctieva  de  Uu  Aguas^  a  'naclmiento'  (source),  with  an  ermita. 

From  the  haibonr  a  bridle-path  leads  to  the  S.E.  to  the  BrmUa  de  lot 
Angeles  and  the  (IV4  hr.)  lighthouse  (faro)  on  the  Cabo  de  San  AnUmio. 
With  this  !excur8ion  may  be  combined  a  visit  to  J&vea  (Brit,  vice-consul), 
a  quiet  town  of  6000inhab.,  most  picturesquely  situated  on  the  JcMn^  3  If 

Baedbkbb's  Spain.  18 


274   Route  28.  ALCOY. 

to  the  S.E.  of  D^nia,  between  the  Cabo  de  San  Antonio  on  the  N.  and  the 
Cdbo  d€  San  Martin  on  the  S.  The  Castillo  de  San  Juan  affords  a  fine  sea- 
yiew.  The  stalactite  Cueva  del  Oro  and  Cueva  del  Organo  are  also  interest- 
ing. Excellent  raisins  are  grown  in  the  vicinitr.  —  From  Javea  a  High 
Road  (ca.  50  H.(  leads  to  the  S.  along  the  coast  to  Alicante  (p.  279). 

28.  From  Jdtiva  to  Alcoy  and  Alicante. 

66  H.  Railway  in  construction  and  open  as  far  as  (18  M.)  Albdida^ 
whence  Diligences  ply  twice  daily,  in  connection  with  the  trains,  to  Alcoy 
and  Alicante.  Another  diligence  runs  from  Alcoy  to  BcMerae^  a  station  on 
the  Boecdrente  and  Villena  railway,  which  there  joins  the  main  line  from 
Madrid  to  AUcante  (R.  29). 

Jdtiva^  see  p.  269.  —  The  train  tarns  to  the  S.  into  the  Albaida 
valley  and  beyond  the  small  baths  of  BeUas  and  (2V2  M.)  Oendves 
enters  the  defile  named  the  DesfiUidero  de  Aiffues.  —  8  M.  Beniga- 
nim.  On  the  hill  to  the  right  is  the  village  of  Olleria.  —  11  M. 
Fwsbla  de  Rugat;  15  M.  Montabemir. 

18  M.  Albiida,  a  small  town  with  3200  inhabitants.  We  here 
leave  the  railway,  which  is  continued  to  the  W.,  through  the  Albaida 
valley,  to  (6  M.)  Onteniente. 

The  Road  to  Alcoy  ascends  from  Albaida  to  the  S.,  through  the 
valley  of  the  Clariana^  to  the  crest  of  the  Sierra  de  Maridla^  along 
which  runs  the  boundary  between  the  provinces  of  Valencia  and 
A  licante.  It  crosses  the  ridge  by  the  Puerto  de  Benicadell  or  de  Al- 
qdida  (see  p.  272)  and  then  descends,  in  steep  zigzags,  into  the 
valley  of  the  Alcoy.   To  the  left  lies  the  small  town  of  Muro  (p.  272). 

28  M.  Concentiina,  a  station  on  the  railway  from  Puerto  de 
Gandia  to  Alcoy  (p.  272),  is  a  venerable  town  of  6800  inhab.,  sur- 
rounded by  old  Roman  walls,  partly  renewed  in  the  Moorish  period. 
It  is  overlooked  by  a  picturesque  hill  surmounted  by  a  tower.  The 
interesting  old  palace  of  the  Dukes  of  Medinaceli  has  three  high  cor- 
ner-towers. The  fertile  huerta  of  Concentaina  produces  wine  and 
olives.  To  the  N.W.  rises  the  Moncabrer  (4646  ft.) ;  to  the  E.  is  the 
Sierra  de  la  Almudaina,  whence  several  streams  descend  to  the  E. 
towards  D^nia  (p.  272)  and  Javea  (p.  273).  —  The  road  now  ascends 
to  the  S.W.  through  the  valley  of  the  Alcoy  to  — 

32  M.  Alcoy  {F&nda  del  Comercio,  Plaza  de  San  Agustin  22; 
Hdtel  y  CafS  de  Rigal^  Calle  San  Nicolas  46),  an  important  in- 
dustrial town  with  27,400  inhab.,  well  situated  on  a  terrace  of  the 
Hoya  (huerta)  watered  by  the  Alcoy.  The  principal  manufactures 
are  iron  goods,  paper  ('papel  de  Alcoy',  for  cigarettes),  and  woollen 
goods.  Many  of  the  factories  lie  on  the  Salto  de  las  Aguas,  a  brook 
descending  in  leaps  from  the  Mariola.  The  Festival  of  St.  George, 
who  in  1257  protected  the  town  from  an  attack  by  the  Moors,  is  cel- 
ebrated on  April  227id-24th. 

From  Alcoy  to  Puerfo  de  Oandia^  vift  Coneentdina  and  Gandia,  see  p.  272. 

The  RoAn  to  Alicante  diverges  from  that  to  IM  and  Villena 
(p.  279)  beyond  the  Sierra  de  Carrosqueta  and  leads  to  the  S»W., 


GETAFE.  29.  Route.    275 

up  and  down,  over  the  Sierra  de  Vivena  and  the  Sierra  de  Oralld, 
—  48  M.  Jijona,  a  town  of  4400  inhab.,  with  an  old  Moorish  castle, 
on  the  Coteo,  a  tributary  of  the  Castalla  (see  below).  The  place  lies 
in  an  exuberantly  fertile  district  and  is  famous  for  its  honey-cakes 
(turrones).  —  The  road  then  descends,  past  the  great  Pantano 
(p.  242)  of  mi,  which  is  enclosed  by  a  wall  235  ft.  long,  136  ft. 
high,  and  60  ft.  thick,  into  the  valley  of  the  Castalla^  the  water 
carrier  for  the  huerta  of  Alicante.  —  60  M.  Muchamiel  (p.  282)  ; 
6O8/4M.  San  JuamUAUcante  (p.  282).  —  66  M.  AUcanU,  see  p. 279. 

29.  From  Madrid  to  Alicaato  vii  Alcdsar,  Chinchilla, 
and  La  Encina. 

382  K.  Railway  (two  fhrougb-trainn  daily)  in  14V4-18  hrs.  (fares  53  p. 
35,  40  p.  eO,  34  p.  90  c).  The  mail  train  starting  in  the  evening  is  made  np 
of  first-elaaa  and  second-claas  carriages  only.  Vo  change  of  carriages.  The 
8eviU4  trains  (B.  S)  also  pass  Aledzar  (p.  777),  and  there  is  a  local  train  to 
ArmjfKS  (p.  i3S).  —  trains  start  at  the  Egtaei^  del  MeModia  (p.  52). 
De^atiko  CSfnlral,  see  p.  58.  —  Bailway-restanrants  in  AratnJuUy  Medsar, 
Aibaeete,  and  La  Bncina. 

The  railway  traverses  the  monotonous  plateau  of  Kew  Castile,  the  S.E. 
part  of  which  is  known  as  La  Maneha.  The  general  character  is  that  of 
a  cultivated  bnt  irresponsive  steppe,  with  occasional  artifidally  watered 
oases  of  greater  fertility.  The  only  interesting  part  is  that  beyond  La 
Encina,  where  we  traverse  the  bare  but  picturesque  mountain-district 
of  Alicante. 

Madrid^  see  p.  52.  —  Onr  line  coincides  for  a  time  with  that 
to  Saragossa  (R.  10)  and  then  crosses  the  brook  Abronigal.  Fine 
retrospect  of  Madrid  and  the  Gnadarrama  Mts.,  which  remain  in 
sight  till  we  reach  Getafe.    Farther  on  we  cross  the  Manzanares. 

Beyond  (4V2  M.)  Villaverde  the  railway  to  Algodor  (Toledo)  and 
Gindad  Real  (R.  48)'diTerges  to  the  right.  The  main  line  ascends 
gradually  over  a  dreary  plateau  to  (8V2  ^0  Getafe,  a  small  town 
(3300  inhab.),  with  a  large  Piarist  seminary  (Colegio  de  loa  Padres 
EseolapioB),  and  also  a  station  on  the  railway  to  Giudad  Real.  The 
parish-church  contains  some  paintings  by  Claudio  Codlo.  —  About 
1 V4  M.  to  the  £.  of  Getafe,  beyond  the  railway,  is  El  Punto  or  Cerro 
de  I08  AngeleSy  a  conspicuous  hill  supposed  to  be  the  geometrical 
centre  of  Spain.  On  it  is  the  Ermita  de  lo3  AngeleSj  containing  a 
celebrated  image  of  the  Madonna,  which  is  carried  in  procession  to 
Getafe  on  Ascension  Day  and  is  exhibited  there  till  Whitsuntide. 

The  train  now  runs  through  com-flelds  to  (13  M.)  Pinto^  on  the 
road  from  Madrid  to  Aranjuez.  The  old  castle  of  the  Dukes  of  Ar^valo 
served  as  the  prison  of  the  Princess  Eboli  (p.  104)  in  1678-81.  — 
Some  vineyards  are  passed.  17  M.  Valdemoro,  with  a  school  ofin- 
struotion  for  gendarmes  (Colegio  de  Guardias  Civiles  Jdvenes). 

We  traverse  the  Meseta  de  EspartifuUj  a  monotonous  hill-district, 
with  a  few  vineyards  and  olive-trees.  —  21  M.  Ciempotuelos 
('hundred  wells*!  with  extensive  salt-works.  The  train  now  de- 
scends vift  (25*/2M.)  Sesena  into  the  pleasant  vega  of  the  Jaramoj 

18* 


276  RouU  99.  CASTILLBJO.  From  Madrid 

a  wooded  oasis  irrigated  by  the  Aeiquia  Real.  We  cross  the  Jarama 
and  then  the  To^rtM. 

3OV2  M.  Arazgues,  see  p.  123. 

A  Bbancb  Bailwat  (95  M.,  in  6^/4  bre.^  fares  17  p.  50,  13  p.  15, 
7  p.  90  c.)  runs  from  Aranjuez  towards  the  £.,  via  (5  M.)  Ontigola^  (lOVs  M.) 
Oarila,  (371/2  M.)  Tarancdn,  and  (60  M.)  ffuete,  to  (95  M.)  Ouenca  (3030  ft. ; 
*Fonda  de  la  Iberia^  plain),  the  capital  of  the  Kew  Castile  province  of  the 
same  name,  situated  on  the  Mcar^  in  the  heart  of  the  wooded  Serromia 
de  Cuetica.  The  town  was  taken  from  the  Moors  by  Alfonso  YIII.  in  1177 
after  a  long  siege,  and  contains  several  interesting  churches.  The  Crothic 
Cathedral  (16th  cent.)  boasts  of  several  works  of  art  in  the  ^plateresque' 
style,  particularly  the  monuments  of  the  Albornoz  family  in  the  Capilla  de 
los  Albomoces  or  de  los  Caballeros  (16th  cent.). 

Our  line  runs  to  the  S.W.  from  Aranjuez  past  nnmerons  country 
houses  of  the  Madrilenos,  through  park-like  scenery  threaded  by 
the  Tagus,  and  for  a  time  parallel  with  the  highroad  to  Valencia. 
The  hills  to  the  left  are  planted  with  oli-ves,  which  do  not  require 
artificial  watering.   We  soon  emerge  from  the  wooded  district. 

40  M.  CastUlejo.  The  treeless  village  on  the  opposite  bank  of 
the  Tagus  is  AnovSr  del  Taj  a  (see  below).  A  little  farther  to  the 
W.  are  seen  isolated  masses  of  marl  and  gypsum,  while  Toledo 
(p.  126)  and  the  Sierra  de  Gredos  appear  in  the  distance.  To  the  N. 
are  the  Guadarrama  Mts. 

From  Castillejo  a  Branch  Railway  (16  M.,  in  1  hr. ;  two  trains  daily, 
fares  3  p.,  2  p.  35,  1  p.  46  c.)  runs  to  Toledo.  The  only  intermediate  station 
is  (71/2  M.)  AlgodoTy  the  junction  of  the  direct  railway  from  Madrid  to  Toledo 
and  Ciudad  Seal  (p.  126).  The  line  follows  the  left  bank  of  the  Tagus, 
the  wide  valley  of  which  is  here  uncultivated.  Good  vegetables  are  grown 
on  the  slopes  of  the  right  bank,  and  the  melons  of  Anov^r  del  Tajo  are 
celebrated.  The  scenery  improves  as  we  approach  Toledo,  and  the  view 
of  the  eurioua  city  Itself  is  very  striking.  —  16  M.  Toledo^  see  p.  126. 

Beyond  (45  V2M.)  ViUasequiUa  we  see  to  the  left,  in  the  distance, 
the  town  of  Yepes,  which  is  celebrated  for  its  white  wine.  We  cross 
the  Cedr^n,  —  The  region  we  are  now  in  is  a  treeless  and  colourless 
plateau.  Few  human  beings  are  seen,  and  fewer  houses. 

621/2  M.  Huerta  de  Valdecardbanos;  the  village,  with  its  castle, 
lies  3  M.  to  the  left. —  55^2  ^*  ^^  Caaar,  The  train  ascends  gradu- 
ally to  the  imperceptible  watershed  between  the  Tagus  and  the 
Guadiana.  The  country  affords  sustenance  for  nothing  but  large  flocks 
of  sheep*  To  the  right,  in  the  distance,  are  some  of  the  peaks  of 
the  Monies  de  Toledo, 

621/2  M.  TembUque,  The  small  town  (2080  ft.)  Ues  11/4  M.  to 
the  S.W.,  on  the  highroad  from  Madrid  to  Andalusia.  —  The  line 
Intersects  a  range  of  hills,  where  gypsum  is  quarried.  —  A  Uttle 
farther  on  we  reach  the  watershed,  where  La  Mancha  AUa^  the  N.E. 
part  of  the  district  celebrated  in  *I)on  Quixote',  begins.  It  is  prob- 
able that  Cervantes  did  not  mean  to  connect  the  places  mentioned 
in  his  famous  novel  with  any  real  and  delinite  prototypes,  but  his 
general  characterisation  of  the  land  and  people  of  LaHancha  [Arab. 
manxa  =  dry,  desert  land)  is  still  strikingly  apposite  and  true. 
The  district  is  thickly  sprinkled  with  windmills,  and  their  small  size 


V)  AUeanU,  ALCAZAR.  99.  Route.   277 

(8-10  ft.  high)  makes  the  delusion  of  the  Knight  of  the  Rneful  Conn-, 
tenance  seem  a  IHtle  less  preposterous. 

Mr.  John  Omubp^  in  the  Introdiiction  to  his  translation  of  *I>on  Quixote\ 
sajs  that  *'to  anyone  who  knew  the  coontry  well,  the  mere  style  and  title 
of  *Don  Quixote  of  La  Mancha'  gave  the  key  to  the  author's  meaning"',  by 
enophasising  the  incongruity  between  Don  Quixote's  imarlnary  world  and 
that  he  really  lired  in.  La  Kancha  is  the  last  part  of  Spain  "to  snggest 
the  idea  of  romance.  Of  all  the  dull  eentral  plateaux  of  the  peninsula  it 
ia  the  dullest  tract". 

See  ^On  the  Trail  of  Don  Quixote'  by  A.  F.  Jaccaci^  illustrated  by 
DnnUl  rierge  (Scribner*a  Bona}  1896). 

74 Vs  M.  ViUaealias,  a  town  of  5600  inhab.,  celebrated  for  its 
sheep.  A  few  trees  are  seen  here,  encouraged  by  artificial  irrigation. 
—  The  railway  now  traverses  a  district  in  which  much  salt  and 
soda  are  produced.  The  soil  is  covered  with  saline  plants,  and 
two  small  salt-lakes  are  seen  to  the  left.  To  the  N.E.  are  the  outliers 
of  the  Serrania  de  Cuenca  (p.  276),  to  the  S.W.  are  the  mountains 
of  Cindad  Real.  We  cross  the  two  small  brooks  Rianstares  and 
Oigiiela^  on  the  banks  of  which  some  tillage  is  carried  on. 

84  M.  Quero,  in  the  midst  of  a  malarial  salt-district,  with  a  sal- 
ine lake,  draining  towards  the  S.  The  salt  makes  the  soil  fruitful. 
The  old-fashioned  Spanish  plough  is  in  universal  use.  Farther  on 
are  a  few  vineyards,  but  the  soil  generally  is  very  stony.  To  the  S. 
appear  the  foot-hills  of  the  Sierra  Morena. 

92  M.  Alegar  de  San  Juan  (2126  ft. ;  Rail.  Restaurant)  is  the 
junction  for  the  trains  to  Andalusia  and  Ciudad  Real  (R.  33).  It  is 
an  attractive  town  of  8800  inhab.  and  contains  two  churches.  The 
name  is  derived  from  the  castle  (al-Kasr)  built  by  the  Moors  and 
afterwards  the  headquarters  of  the  Order  of  San  Juan.  Since  the 
development  of  the  railway-system  the  town  has  become  an  impor- 
tant centre  for  the  wine -trade  of  Estremadura,  Andalusia,  and 
Alicante.  Several  soap-factories  have  been  started  to  utilize  the 
soda  and  alkali  obtained  in  the  neighbourhood.  Saltpetre  and  choco- 
late are  also  made  here.  The  knives  offered  for  sale  at  the  railway- 
station  are  inferior  to  those  of  Albacete  (p.  278). 

Aleizar  contends  with  six  other  towns  for  the  honour  of  being  the 
birthplace  of  Cervantea  (eomp.  p.  152).  In  any  case  the  far-reaching 
plain  around  forms  the  stage  for  much  of  the  action  of  his  famous  ro- 
mance. Its  appearance  is  especially  remarkable  in  the  early  morning, 
when,  to  use  the  words  of  Cervantes  himself,  'Aurora  shows  herself  through 
the  doors  and  balconied  windows  of  the  horiaon  of  La  Mancha'.  To  the 
K.E.,  about  20  M.  off,  lies  the  poor  village  of  Ttlboao.  ArgamatiUa  de  Alba 
(p.  300),  16  K.  to  the  S.,  is  generally  accepted  aa  the  birthplace  of  Don 
Quixote. 

The  railway  to  Alicante  runs  to  the  S.E.  from  Alcazar  through 
a  grain-growing  district  97  M.  Campo  de  Criptdna  (2235  ft.),  with 
6800  inhab.,  lies  on  the  slope  of  the  Sierra  de  Molinos,  where  there 
is  a  group  of  windmills,  supposed  to  be  the  scene  of  Don  Quixote's 
famous  adventure.  —  107  M.  Zdtu:araj  in  a  malarial  district.  — 
IIOVjM.  SocaiUamoi  (2215  ft.)  possesses  a  grove  of  Barbary  oaks 
(Quercus  ballota),  the  edible  acorns  of  which  furnished  Don  Quixote 


278   Route  29.  ALBACETE.  From  Madrid 

with  a  text  for  his  praise  of  the  golden  age  (L  ii.  3).  Excellent 
charcoal  (caMn  faerie)  is  made  from  the  timber  of  these  trees.  — 
The  train  enters  the  province  of  Albacete  (see  below). 

1261/2  M.  Villarrohledo  (2376  ftA  with  8800  inhab.,  is  also  sur- 
rounded by  oak-forests  (rohle  =■  oakj. 

About  22  M.  to  the  K.  ia  Btlmonte^  built  by  the  Marques  de  Villena  in 
the  middle  of  the  15th  cent,  and  an  admirable  specimen  of  a  Spanish  castle. 

135  M.  Matas  Verdes.  Beyond  (140  M.)  Mtnaya  the  train  in- 
tersects a  hill  of  carbonate  of  lime  (^Spanish  white'),  used  by  the 
people  as  a  stomachic  cordial  and  to  whitewash  their  houses.  — 
151  M.  La  Boda;  162  M.  La  Oineta.  The  railway  crosses  the  Canal 
de  San  Jorge,  which,  like  the  larger  Canal  de  Maria  Cristina,  helps 
to  drain  the  malarious  marshes  near  Albacete. 

174  M.  Albacete  (2250  ft. ;  Fonda  de  FrancisquiUo ;  BaU.  Restau- 
rant)^ the  Arabic  al-Bastta,  is  the  capital  of  a  province  and  contains 
14,200.  inhabitants.  It  consists  of  an  upper  and  older  part,  the  Alto 
de  la  Villa,  and  .'of  the  modern  lower  town.  Its  chief  buildings  are 
the  Bull  Bing^  the  Casa  de  Mademidad,  the  Audiencia,  and  the  Pal- 
ace of  the  Conde  de  Pino-Hermoso,  It  is  celebrated  for  its  knives  (na- 
vajas,  cuchiUos)  and  daggers  (punales),  on  the  blades  of  which  are 
engraved  suggestive  inscriptions  such  as  no  me  aaqiies  sin  razon  m 
me  enires  sin  onor;  soy  sola  y  sin  companera;  vivan  los  amantes  del 
rey ;  soy  defensa  de  mi  dueno  solo,  y  biva.  The  handles  are  of  ebony 
inlaid  with  copper.  These  knives  are  offered  for  sale  at  the  railway 
station  (bargaining  necessary).  —  A  large  fair  is  held  at  Albacete 
on  Sept.  7-15th. 

185  M.]  Chinchilla,  the  junction  of  the  railway  to  Murcia  and 
Cartagena  (R.  31;  carriages  changed  by  second  and  third  class 
passengers).  The  town  lies  about  3  M.  to  the  N.,  on  a  tufa-hill  650  ft. 
high,  containing  innumerable  cave-dwellings. 

196  M.  Villdr  (2500  ft),  the  highest  point  of  this  line.  We  then 
traverse  a  salt-district,  with  a  lake.  The  stations  are  few  and  far 
between.   To  the  N.  are  the  Muelas  de  Carcelen  (4070  ft.). 

210  M.  Alpera.  As  we  proceed,  we  see  to  the  right  the  *Pan- 
tano  de  Almansa  (comp.  p.  242),  which  the  Moors  constructed  be- 
tween the  rocky  walls  of  a  valley.  The  huge  dam  of  masonry  batters 
towards  the  top.  The  basin  thus  formed  is  IV4M.  square  and  has 
a  depth  of  265  ft.  It  is  noteworthy  that  even  the  Great  Earth- 
quake of  Lisbon,  which  overthrew  many  castles  in  the  vicinity,  left 
this  huge  reservoir  entirely  unaffected.  —  The  train  passes  through 
a  cutting  and  enters  the  fertile  plain  of  Almansa,  in  the  midst  of 
which,  dominated  by  an  old  castle,  lies,  the  town  of  — 

222  M,  Almansa  (2245  ft.),  where  the  Duke  of  Berwick  routed 
the  Austrian  army  under  La«  Minas  (April  25th,  1707)  and  so  se- 
cured Spain  for  Philip  V.  A  pyramid  to  the  S.  of  the  town  marks 
the  battlefield.  The  old  CastU,  dating  from  the  Moorish  period,  is 
picturesquely  situated  on  a  white  limestone  cliff. 


to  AUeanU,  VILLENA.  29.  Route,   279 

Beyond  Almansa  the  railway  tarns  towards  the  S.  —  234  M.  La 
Eaeiiia  (2840 ft.;  BaU.  Restaurant),  named  after  the  old  Venta  de 
la  Endna,  is  the  Junction  of  the  railway  to  Yalenoia  (R.  26 ;  car- 
riages changed,  except  by  first-class  passengers). 

The  train  now  enters  the  province  of  Alicante  and  descends 
gradually  to  the  S.E.  into  the  valley  of  the  Vinalapd,  which  flows 
into  the  Mediterranean  near  Elche  (p.  282).  The  transition  i>om 
the  olive- growing  region  of  the  central  plateau  to  the  Africa-like 
coast-district  is  well  marked,  though  hardly  so  sudden  as  on  the 
journey  from  Bobadilla  to  Malaga  (p.  320).  To  the  left  is  the  Sierra 
Oro8a,  to  the  right  the  Sierra  Lacera,  —  The  train  proceeds  in 
windings,  past  the  Lomas  de  lo$  Ninoa,  to  (238  M.)  Caudete^  the 
station  for  the  town  of  that  name,  3  M.  to  the  W.,  at  the  foot  of  the 
Llanos  de  losViUares,  —  We  cross  the  Ramhla  del  Angosto, 

246  M.  Villena  (1665  ft.),  a  town  of  12,400  inhab.,  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  yinalap6,  with  the  interesting  ancestral  chateau  of  the 
Marques  de  Villena.  The  church  (1498-1611)  contains  some  inter- 
esting spiral-fluted  columns.  A  large  fair  is  held  from  Sept.  29th 
to  Oct.  6th.  —  Near  Villena  is  the  Laguna  Salada^  which  in  the  hot 
season  is  covered  with  a  thick  crust  of  salt. 

A  Bbahob  £ailwat  (id  M.,  in  1-1 V*  br.)  runs  to  the  W.  from  Villena, 
via  (5  M.)  Las  Virtvdu  and  tbrough  the  Sierra  de  SaUnae,  to  Yeola,  a  town 
of  16,600  inbab.,  prettily  situated  on  tbe  slope  ot Monte  VastiUo.  —  Another 
line  (20  M.,  in  2  brfl.)  runs  to  tbe  N.E.,  vii  (16V«  M.)  BtOerai  (p.  274),  to 
Bocairente,  whence  it  is  to  be  prolonged  to  Alcoy. 

As  we  proceed,  we  have  the  Pena  Ruhia  to  the  E.  —  252  M. 
Sax  lies  to  the  right,  on  a  rock  (Lat  aaxuni)  shaped  like  the  head 
of  an  elephant,  and  has  a  ruined  castle.  —  The  train  crosses  the 
Vinalap6  and  penetrates  the  Pena  de  la  Correta  (2865  ft.)  by  a  tun- 
nel. To  the  left,  as  we  emerge,  is  the  village  of  Petrel,  with  an  old 
castle,  on  a  spur  of  the  Sierra  del  (M,  —  256  M.  Elda,  with  a  fertile 
huerta  and  an  imposing  chateau ;  259  M.  Mondvar,  an  agricultural 
town  with  6700  inhabitants.  —  The  train  crosses  the  Vinalapo  by  a 
bridge  100  ft  in  span,  quits  the  valley,  and  runs  towards  the  E.  To 
the  left  rises  the  Pena  de  Aj6n, 

263 V2  M.  Novelda  (830  ft.),  with  6200  inhab.,  Ues  II/4M.  to  the 
W.,  amid  orange-trees  and  palms.  The  women  make  laee,  like  that 
of  Catalonia. 

Tbe  eulphur- baths  of  ScOinetas  de  Elda  (68"  Fabr.)  lie  2  M.  from 
Kovelda.  —  A  good  road  leads  direct  from  Novelda  to  Elche  (p.  232)  and 
Crevilknte  (p.  2©). 

The  train  passes  Monforte  (left),  and  crosses  the  narrow  Col  de 
la  Hermosa  and  several  ramblas.  —  277^2  M.  San  Vicente  del  Raspeig, 
with  many  country-houses.  The  bare  castle-rock  of  Alicante  rises 
conspicuously  over  the  desert-like  landscape.  The  sea  is  scarcely 
visible.  —  282  M.  Alicante. 


Alicante.  —  Xailway  stations.    1.  Estacidn  de  Madrid  (PI.  A,  2),  for 
the  railway  to  La  Encina  and  Madrid.    2.  Estacidn  de  Mvrcia  (PI.  A,  f 


280   Routed.  ALICANTE. 

jor  the  railway  to  Mureia  (B.  30).  —  The  omnibuses  of  the  larger  hotels 
meet  the  trains. 

Arrival  by  Bern.  Passengers  are  landed  in  small  boats  (50  c,  luggage 
50  c).  A  bargain  should  be  made  for  forwarding  the  luggage  to  the  hotel 
(1-2  p.).   —  Steauebs  ply  to  all  Spanish  ports,  Marseilles,  England,   etc. 

Hotels.  HoTBL  Bossio  (PI.  a;  C,  D,  3),  Calle  del  Duque  de  Zaraso/.a, 
corner  of  the  Pas^o  de  M^ndez  17unez,  a  long-established  house,  pens. 
8-10  p. ;  Hot.  db  Boua  t  db  la  Masika,  H6t.  db  Ybobba,  both  on  the 
harbour,  with  a  view  of  the  sea. 

Oafea.  Ca/i  EgpcMol^  CaHno^  in  the  Paseo  de  los  M^rtires;  C(tfd  del 
Comereio.  Cafi  Suizo,  Calle  de  San  Fernando. 

Sea  Baths.  Bcmot  de  Diana,  Boiiot  de  la  Etperanga,  in  the  N.E.  angle 
of  the  harbour,  much  frequented  in  summer  by  the  Madrilenos. 

Theatres.  Teatro  Principal  (PL  C,  2,  3),  Plaza  del  Teatro  \  Teatro  Circo, 
Plaza  de  Balmes.  —  Bull  Xing  {Plaza  de  Toros;  PI.  D,  E,  1),  to  the  N.  of 
the  town  (corridas  in  midsummer  only). 

Diligence  Office  for  Jijima  (p.  '275),  C!alle  de  Gravina  b\  for  Alcoy 
(p.  274),  Paseo  de  MtSndez  Nunez  9. 

Post  Office  (Correo),  Plaza  Isabel  Segunda.  —  Telegraph  Office,  Calle 
Gravina. 

British  Yice-Gonsul,  /.  W.  Cumming,  Calle  San  Fernando  35.  —  United 
States  Vice-Oonsul,  John  Leach.  —  Lloyd's  Agents,  Carey  A  Co. 

Bank.    Cumming  Brothert,  Calle  San  Fernando  35. 

Chief  Attractions  (V2-I  day).  Pateo  de  los  Mdrtire»,  East  Mole  of  the 
Earbow^  Paseo  de  M4ndez  Nu%ez^  CaetiUo  de  Santa  Barbara. 

Alicante,  the  Mooiish  Lekant  or  Alkant,  the  capital  of  a  province 
and  a  busy  commercial  town,  with  36,000  inhab.,  derives  Its  name 
from  the  ancient  Lucmtunij  which  lay  a  Uttle  to  the  N.,  on  the  site 
of  the  modern  Tuaal  de  Manites.  It  lies  on  a  small  hay  of  the  Medi- 
terranean, which  opens  towards  the  S.  and  is  hounded  on  the  E.  hy 
the  Cabo  de  las  Huerias,  on  the  S.W.  by  the  Cabo  de  Santa  Pola.  The 
capacious  harbour  is  protected  hy  two  large  moles.  Both  town  and 
bay  are  dominated  hy  a  rocky  hill,  crowned  hy  the  Castillo  de  Santa 
Barbara.  Its  sheltered  position  and  mild,  dry  climate  (comp.  p.  291) 
make  Alicante  a  favourable  winter  -  residence  for  invalids.  The 
summer  is  hot,  hut  Alicante  escapes  the  parching  Leveohe  of  Mureia 
(p.  244).  The  landward  environs  of  the  town  are  very  dreary,  hut 
the  distant  mountains,  the  castle,  the  harhour,  and  the  sea  combine 
to  form  a  memorable  picture.  Africa  seems  much  nearer  here  than 
at  Valencia.  —  The  famous  wines  of  Alicante  include  the  FondeUol^ 
Aloquej  Belmete,  Malvasia^  and  Moscatel.  Other  exports  are  fruits, 
saffron,  raisins,  oil,  liquorice,  and  esparto  grass  (p.  286). 

We  may  begin  our  inspection  of  the  town  with  the  E.  Mole 
[MueUe;  PI.  D,  4)  of  the  *Harhour,  at  the  extremity  of  which 
stands  a  small  lighthouse.  The  view  of  the  town  from  this  point, 
with  its  white,  flat-roofed  houses,  its  palms,  and  the  bare  and  tawny 
cliffs  of  the  castle-hill,  has  probably  no  parallel  in  Europe.  —  The 
harbour  is  skirted  by  the  *Faseo  de  los  H^rtires  (PL  B,  G,  D,  4), 
a  double  avenue  of  closely-planted  date-palms,  which  is  adjoined 
on  the  N.  hy  the  Casino ,  the  two  hotels  named  above ,  and  the 
Mercado  (PI.  D,  4;  a  busy  scene  in  the  morning).  To  the  E.  are  the 
above-mentioned  bathing  establishments,  built  out  into  the  sea  and 
npported  on  piles. 


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ALICANTE.  29.  Route,   281 

Parallel  with  this  promenade  rans  tho  Galls  db  San  Fbrnanoo 
(PI.  0,  D,  4),  tbe  chief  baBiness-street  of  the  town,  containing  sev- 
eial  caf^s.  Towards  the  W.  it  ends  at  the  Plaza  ds  Isabel  Sbgvnda 
(VI.  2;  C,  3, 4),  which  is  planted  with  palms, 

A  few  paces  to  the  N.  of  the  Mercado,  in  the  Plaza  de  Alfonso 
Doce,  lies  the  Casa  Gonsistorial  (town-hall ;  PI.  D,  3),  a  baroque 
edifice  with  four  corner-towers,  a  tiled  dome,  and  singular  portals. 
In  the  middle  of  the  main  facade  are  the  arms  of  Alicante,  with 
two  bears  as  supporters.  —  From  the  town-hall  the  Oalle  de  Jorge 
Juan  leads  to  the  N.E.  to  the  church  of  Santa  Maaia  (PI.  8 ;  £,  3), 
a  Gothic  but  much  modernized  building,  with  two  truncated  towers 
and  an  interesting  baroque  portal.  High  above  this  chureh  rises 
the  castle.  —  Returning  to  the  town-hall,  we  proceed  thence  to  the 
N.W.  to  the  collegiate  church  of  — 

San  iricolas  de  Bari  (PI.  D,  3),  which  is  dedicated  to  the  tutel- 
ary saint  of  Alicante.  It  was  erected  in  1616  et  seq.  in  the  style  of 
Herrera,  but  was  never  finished.  Above  the  main  entrance  (Calle 
de  Labradores)  is  a  group  of  the  Virgin  and  Child. 

The  Intbbiob  is  timple  bat  very  effectiye  in  spite  of  the  intrusion  of 
the  eoro.  It  consists  practically  of  tbe  nave  and  the  capllla  mayor,  as  the 
aislea  and  transept  are  merely  indicated  and,  as  it  were,  in  an  embryo  state. 
The  singular  internal  vaulting  of  the  capiUa  mayor  and  the  cimborio  re- 
sembles a  crown.    A  kind  of  triforium  runs  round  the  whole  church. 

The  Calle  de  los  Angeles  leads  hence  to  the  W.  to  the  elm-shaded 
Paaeo  de  Mendez  Nunes  (PI.  D,  3)  or  Alameda,  a  long 'terrace  raised 
above  the  street  below  and  reached  by  a  flight  of  steps.  To  the  S.W. 
it  abuts  on  tbe  PUua  de  la  ConatUucidn  (PI.  3;  C,  3),  with  its  kiosque 
and  fountain.  From  the  N.  end  of  the  Alameda  we  may  proceed 
to  the  left,  passing  the  Hdtel  Bossio,  to  the  Plaza  del  Teatro  (PI.  5; 
C,  3),  in  the  middle  of  which  stands  the  Teatro  Ptmcipal  (p.  280), 
with  its  handsome  portico. 

For  a  visit  to  the  Castillo  de  Santa  Barbara  (PI.  E,  3 ;  ca.  525  ft.) 
an  order  (pose)  is  necessary,  which  may  be  obtained  in  the  Oobiemo 
Militar  in  the  Calle  de  Castafios,  to  the  S.  of  the  theatre.  The  as- 
cent takes  20  min.,  the  whole  visit  about  1  hr.  The  gates  are  closed 
at  6  p.m.  —  From  the  Alameda  we  proceed  at  first  towards  the 
N.E.,  till  we  reach  a  footpath  which  ascends  towards  the  E.  and 
eventually  joins  the  road  mentioned  below.  The  route  winds  up 
past  all  manner  of  walls,  bastions,  and  buildings.  The  ground  is 
overgrown  with  cactus  (Cactus  opuntia;  pita).  The  order  is  shown 
at  the  first  gate  and  given  up  at  the  second.  The  ♦View  from  the 
top  includes  the  mountains  to  the  N.,  the  smiling  huerta  of  Alicante, 
the  Mediterranean,  and  the  coast-line  as  far  as  the  Cabo  de  Palos 
(p.  289).  The  town  lies  immediately  below  our  feet.  (Sketching  is 
not  allowed.)  —  In  returning  we  may  follow  the  road  which  de- 
scends in  a  wide  curve,  passing  the  Tobacco  Factory  (PI.  E,  1)  and 
the  Plaza  de  Toros  (PI.  D,  E,  1),  to  the  N.  suburb,  Arrdbal  de  San 
Antdn.    If  the  tobacco  factory  be  passed  at  the  hour  of  closing 


282  BouU  30,  ELGHE.  From  Alicante 

(6  p.m.),  the  traveller  will  be  reminded  o£  the  opera  of  'Carmen'  by 
the  ewarms  of  pictnresqne  Spanish  girls  (6-6000)  issuing  from  it. 

ExGUBsioMs.  J^'rom  tbe  Mercado  (p.  280)  we  proceed  to  the  E.  via  the 
Plaza  de  Bamiro  (PI.  £,  3.  4)  and  along  the  hot  and  dusty  Alcoy  road, 
skirting  the  8.E.  slope  of  the  castle-hill,  to  the  suburb  of  Vol  Rodi^  in- 
habited by  fishermen  and  containing  a  .chapel  of  the  Virgm  d^  S<>corro 
(PI.  12 J,  F,  3).  Farther  on  (2  M.)  is  the  Convento  de  Santa  Glara  or  de 
Santa  raz.  containing  one  of  the  three  handkerchiefs  (suddrios)  with  which 
St.  Veronica  wiped  the  Saviour's  face  (la  tagrada  reliquia  de  la  aerenuima 
Far).  The  others  are  at  Borne  and  in  the  cathedral  of  Jaen  (p.  3u5).  — 
The  gardens  of  Count  Pmo-Hermo»o  and  Count  Pmacerrada  are  interest- 
ing. —  Another  pleasant  excursion  (tartana  5-6  p.)  may  be  made  to  (6  H.) 
8an  Juan  de  Alicante^  on  the  right  bank  of  the  CaiidUa^  and  (5V4  M.)  Uuch- 
amiel  Cmach  honey'),  situated  in  the  middle  of  the  Huerta.  This  fertile 
district  is  watered  from  the  Azuds  de  San  Juan  y  Uuchamiel  and  from  the 
Pantano  de  Tibi  (p.  275).  Among  the  details  of  interest  are  the  Moorish 
sluice-gates  (eompuerta*)  and  the  fences  of  reed  (arundo  donax)  with  which 
the  gardens  are  enclosed.  The  type  of  the  peasants  reveals  tiieir  Oriental 
blood.  Numerous  olives  (grosales)  grow  here,  as  well  as  the  Muscatel 
grapes  from  which  the  heady  Aloque  (p.  280)  is  made. 

From  Muchamiel  to  Jijona  and  Alcoy^  see  B.  28. 

30*  From  Alicante  to  Murcia  vi&  Elche  and  Alqueria. 

47  M.  Bailwat  (two  trains  daily)  in  3y4-3V2  hrs.  (fares  8  p.  65,  6  p.  55, 
4  p.  30  c).  The  trains  start  from  the  JSttacidn  de  Murcia.  There  is  no 
railway-restaurant  en  route.  —  Passengers  for  Cartagena  (p.  290)  change  car- 
riages at  Alqueria. 

From  Elche  onwards  this  journey  is  very  attractive.  It  reveals  no 
grand  mountain  -  scenery  and  the  distant  view  of  the  sea  is  of  no  great 
moment,  but  the  palm-groves  of  Elche  and  Grevillente,  the  cactus-clad 
slopes  of  Callosa,  the  wheat-fields  of  Orihuela,  and  the  luxuriant  huerta 
Of  Murcia  form  a  series  of  charming  pictures  hardly  paralleled  elsewhere. 

Alicante,  see  p.  279.  —  The  train  runs  to  the  S.W.  throngh  a 
TierradeSecano  (p.  244),  where  the  dryness  of  the  soil  and  atmosphere 
often  ripens  barley  by  the  end  of  March.  —  At  (7  M.)  Santa  PoUt 
Elche  is  seen  in  the  distance.  To  the  right  is  the  Sierra  de  San  Pascual, 
The  district  becomes  more  fertile  and  a  few  palms  are  seen.  Before 
reaching  Elche,  we  pass  through  part  of  its  palm-grove  (see  below). 

13  M.  Elche  (288  ft.  j  Fonda  de  la  Conpanza,  very  fair),  perhaps 
the  Iberian  Helike,  which  defeated  Hamilcar,  and  the  Roman 
Ilice,  is  a  town  of  13,000  inhab.  on  the  Vinalapo.  Nowhere  else  in 
Spain  is  the  former  presence  of  the  Moors  more  clearly  indicated. 
The  faces  of  the  inhabitants,  the  azulejo  domes,  the  flat-roofed, 
whitewashed,  and  almost  windowless  houses,  and  the  slender  palms, 
often  80  ft  high,  all  recall  the  Orient. 

The  church  of  Santa  Maria  has  a  large  W.  portal  and  a  beautiful 
blue-tiled  dome,  with  gilded  ribs.  Its  lofty  tower  should  be  as- 
cended for  its  view  of  the  palm-grove.  Over  the  high-altar  is  a 
celebrated  statue  of  the  Virgen  de  la  Asuncion  (chief  festival  on 
Aug.  16th).  —  The  other  buildings  of  interest  include  the  Casa 
Capitular,  in  the  Plaza  Mayor;  the  Calandura,  or  prison,  formerly 
the  mansion  of  the  Puke  of  Altamira ;  and  the  tower  of  Rapsamblanc. 

No  tourist  should  omit  a  visit  to  the  *Palm  Orove  of  Elche.  which 


to  Mwreia.  ALBATERA-OATRAL.  30.  RouU,    283 

extends  right  up  to  the  walls  of  the  town  and  offers  one  of  the  most 
interesting  scenes  In  Spain.  The  visitor  can  hardly  belieye  that  he 
is  not  in  the  heart  of  Africa  or  India.  Parts  of  the  groves  are  not 
enclosed  in  any  way,  bnt  a  guide  is,  on  the  whole,  desirable.  In 
summer  as  early  an  hour  as  possible  should  be  chosen  for  the  ex- 
cursion. The  oasis  is  irrigated  with  the  aid  of  a  large  panUmo 
(p.  242),  in  a  gorge  of  the  Yinalapd,  3  M.  to  the  N.  of  Elche,  where 
the  water  is  confined  by  a  wall  70  ft.  high  and  27-36  ft.  thiclc.  The 
grove  contains  about  70,000  Date  Palmt  (Phoenix  dactylifera;  pal- 
meraJi  which  are  planted  at  intervals  of  about  6 Y2  ^t. ,  ^with  their 
foot  in  water,  their  head  in  the  fire  of  heaven*,  as  the  Arabic  saying 
has  it.  Between  the  rows  of  palms  are  shallow  trenches,  in  which 
cotton,  lucerne,  and  vegetables  are  cultivated. 

The  palms  require  carefol  cultiTatioii.  The  male  palms  blossom  in 
Kay,  and  their  pollen  (farina}  is  then  sprinkled  by  the  husbandmen  over 
the  female  palms.  The  latter,  about  36,000  in  number,  bear  their  fruit 
(ddtOet)  every  other  year,  and  the  average  crop  is  worth  about  350,000  p., 
each  tree  produdng  three  arrobas  (75  lbs.)  of  dates.  The  dates  ripen  be- 
tween l^ov.  and  the  following  spring,  and  are  much  inferior  to  those  of 
the  oases  of  the  Sahara.  The  leaves  of  the  male  palms  and  of  the  barren 
female  palms  have  also  a  market  value,  as  they  are  cut  at  Easter,  made 
up  into  bundles  (ramiUetet),  blessed  by  the  priests,  and  sold  to  the  pious 
throughout  Spain,  who  attach  them  to  their  houses  as  a  sure  safeguard 
against  lightning.  To  prepare  them  for  this  use,  the  leaves  are  bleached 
on  the  trees  by  being  tightly  bound  up.  A  tree  can  stand  this  operation 
once  in  four  yaari,  and  the  annual  number  so  treated  is  about  8OOO.  Each 
tree  yields  about  ten  ramiUetes,  worth  about  60  c.  each.  The  'hortolano' 
climbs  the  branchless  trees  by  means  of  a  rope  passed  round  his  waist, 
while  he  presses  his  feet  against  the  trunk. 

Beyond  Elche  the  train  crosses  the  rambla  of  the  Yinalapo  by  a 
lofty  bridge.  To  the  left  is  the  salt  AUmfera  de  Elche,  into  which 
the  Yinalapo  flows  at  high  water.  To  the  right  rises  the  Sierra  de 
la  Madera. 

19*/2  M.  CreviUentej  a  town  of  9500inhab.,  picturesquely  situ- 
ated on  the  slopes  of  a  hill  and  the  bank  of  a  small  stream.  Just 
beyond  the  station  we  obtain  a  wide  view  to  the  S.  of  the  plain  of 
the  SegHra  (p.  286),  with  the  towns  of  San  Filipe  Ner\,  Catrdl,  and 
Dolores  (see  belowj.  The  sea  is  hidden  by  the  Sierra  del  Molar.  To 
the  N.  is  the  Sierra  de  Crevillente,  to  the  W.  the  Sierra  de  Callosa. 

24V2M.  Albatera-Catral  (33  ft.),  the  station  for  the  two  small 
towns  of  these  names. 

Fbom  Albateba-Oatral  to  ToBSBViBJA,  17  M.,  railway  in  ca.  1  hr. 
(fares  3  p.  15,  2  p.  38,  1  p.  60  c).  The  railway  diverges  to  the  S.E.  from 
the  main  line,  crosses  the  Segura  beyond  (OM.)  Almoradi -Doloru^  and 
intersects  the  spurs  of  the  Bierra  de  Tlondayo  near  (OVz  H.)  Rojalet-Beni- 
J6/ar,  It  then  descends  between  the  SaUna  de  la  Maia  on  the  lejft  and  the 
SaUna  de  Orihuela  (2V2  M.  by  V*  ^)  on  the  right.  —  17  H.  Torrevieia  is 
a  small  seaport  (7600  inhab.)  near  the  Cabo  CerverOy  almost  entirely  rebuilt 
after  the  earthquake  of  1829.  It  exports  salt,  obtained  by  evaporation 
from  the  above-named  lakes. 

The  railway  to  Murcla  passes  the  villages  of  Oranja  de  Bocamora 
and  Cox,  the  first  with  an  Oriental-looking  church,  the  other  dom- 
inated by  a  Moorish  castle.  We  approach  the  Sierra  de  Callosa. 


284  Bouuao.  orihu]6la. 

28  M.  CaUosa  de  Stgura^  a  thoiouglily  Moorish  little  town,  in 
which  the  Gothic  church  built  by  Charles  V.  seems  curiously  out  of 
place.  The  projecting  eaves  of  the  houses  are  noticeable.  Some 
of  the  dwellings  are  built  into  the  rock  like  caves.  The  hill-slopes 
are  covered  with  cactus  and  agaves,  while  palms  and  orange-trees 
also  abound. 

We  now  enter  the  fertile  grain-growing  plain  of  Orihu^la,  wat- 
ered by  the  copious  Segura.  To  the  right  is  the  barren  Cerro  de  Oro^ 
with  its  Moorish  dwellings.  In  the  distance  appears  the  Sierra  de 
Orihuela^  with  its  muelas  (p.  246). 

33  M.  Orihnila  (Fonda  la  Catalana;  Fonda  de  Etpana),  the  Awra- 
riola\j!)  of  the  Romans,  the  OrcelU  of  the  Goths,  and  the  Awnw6leh  qt 
AfyOl  of  the  Moors,  is  a  town  of  9000inhab.  and  the  seat  of  a  bishop. 
Situated  at  the  base  of  the  sierra  of  its  own  name ,  it  is  the  centre 
of  the  celebrated  Huerta  of  the  Segura,  the  fertility  of  which  is  in- 
dicated by  the  Spanish  saying :  Uueva  6  no  Uueva^  trigo  a  Orikuela 
('rain  or  no  rain,  there's  wheat  in  Orihuela').  The  town  suffered 
severely  from  the  earthquake  of  1829,  which  also  destroyed  several 
of  the  neighbouring  villages.  —  Orihuela  contains  an  uninteresting 
Gothic  Cathedraly  an  Episcopal  Palace j  with  a  handsome  staircase, 
and  a  ColegiOj  with  a  fine  portal.  A  visit  may  be  paid  to  the  ruins 
of  the  Moorish  Castle  above  the  town,  and  to  the  high-lying  Seminario 
Conciliar  de  San  Migu'l^  which  affords  a  view  extending  over  the 
plain  of  the  Segura  as  far  as  Murcia.  The  orange  -  groves  of  the 
Alameda  del  Chorro,  to  the  S.  of  the  town,  are  also  attractive.  — 
An  interesting  fair,  held  every  Tues.,  is  attended  by  the  peasants  of 
the  countryside,  clad  in  wide  hragas  and  striped  mantas,  and  riding 
their  asses  with  a  sheepskin  for  a  saddle. 

The  train  crosses  the  Segura.  To  the  left  is  the  Sierra  de  Colum^ 
hares.  —  37  M.  Beniel^  the  first  place  in  the  province  of  Murcia ; 
40  M.  Zeneta.  To  the  right,  beyond  the  Segura,  appears  the  Monte 
Agudo,  a  trap  hill  crowned  with  the  ruins  of  a  Moorish  castle  and 
adopted  as  the  cognizance  of  the  Huerta  of  Mvrcia  (p.  286),  the  S. 
margin  of  which  is  now  skirted  by  the  railway. 

401/2  M.  Alqueria,  the  junction  of  the  railway  to  Cartagena 
(R.  31).  —  In  the  distance  rises  the  lofty  tower  of  the  cathedral  of 
Murcia.  The  fertile  huerta  is  surrounded  by  bare  and  parched- 
Jooking  mountains.  Through  the  valley  to  the  W.  runs  the  railway 
to  Lorca  (Granada).  —  44  M.  Beniajdn^  situated  to  the  left,  amidst 
orange-trees  and  blue-gum  trees  (Eucalyptus  globulus). 
47  M.  Murcia,  see  p.  286. 

31.  From  Chincliilla  (Madrid)  to  Murcia  and  . 
Cartagena. 

141  M.  Railway  (two  trains  daily)  in  T-lOVa  brs.  ••  fares  26  p.  15,  20  p.  25, 
12  p.  40  c.  (to  Murcia,  101  M.,  in  5-7»/2  hrs. ;  fares  18  p.  60  c,  15  p.,  8  p.  85  c.)! 
\  local  train  also  runs  from  AleantaHlla  (p.  286)  to  Cctrtagena,    The  mail 


HELLIN.  Sl.RouU.  285 

train  leavinc  Xftdrld  at  746  p.m.  bu  flrtt  and  second  elasf  carriages  only. 
There  is  a  raUway-restaurant  at  Chinchilla.  —  Passengers  for  Baxa  (and 
Granada V  B.  32)  change  carriages  at  Akantaritta^  those  for  Elche  and  Ali- 
cante (R.  90)  at  Atqmeria  (p.  281). 

The  railway  runs  through  a  singular  region.  After  leaving  the  corn 
and  oliye  growing  lands  of  the  central  plateau,  we  enter  a  desert  of  marl, 
clay,  and  sand,  abore  which  rise  a  few  shapeless  hills.  We  then  descend, 
high  up  on  the  side  of  the  valley  of  the  Segura,  which  makes  part  of  this 
deaert  unexpectedly  tillable.  At  the  foot  of  the  descent  we  readi  the 
Baerta  of  Murcia,  which  is  more  luxuriant  than  even  the  Vega  of  Granada 
or  the  Huerta  of  Valencia.  Ihe  final  part  of  the  journey,  landing  us  at 
the  best  harbour  on  the  S.  and  E.  coasts  of  Spain,  traverses  another 
*de8poblado\  —  Those  who  travel  by  the  mail  train  to  or  from  Madrid 
pasa  the  mo.ot  characteristic  parts  of  the  scenery  (between  Agramdn  and 
Cartagena)  by  day.  —  Best  views  to  the  right. 

From  Madrid  to  (186  M.)  Chinchilla,  see  R.  29.  Our  line  here 
diverges  to  the  S.  from  that  to  La  Enciiia.   The  scenery  is  dreary. 

71/2  M.  Poto  Canada^  at  the  mouth  of  a  defile.  We  cross  the 
watershed  between  the  Tuna  and  the  Segura  and  pass  the  Penas  de 
San  Pedro  (right).  —  25V2  M.  Tobarra  (2070  ft.),  a  prettily  situated 
town  with  6000  inhabitants.  In  the  distance  to  the  right  are  seen 
the  Sierra  de  AUardt  (6910  ft.)  and  the  Co/or  del  Mundo  (5440  ft.). 
The  fertile  district  is  abundantly  watered  by  the  Tobofra,  which  the 
railway  follows  all  the  way  to  Agramon.  —  In  front  appears  the 
Sierra  de  leu  Cabras,  crossed  by  the  highroad  to  Cieza  (p.  286). 

31  M.  Hellin,  the  Boman  Ilunum,  with  9400  inhab.,  lies  in  a 
monotonous  but  well-tilled  district.  At  Attaraque^  near  the  town,  is 
a  sulphur-spring.  The  sulphur-mines  of  Hellin,  which  were  known 
to  the  Romans,  lie  about  12  M.  to  the  S.  —  Beyond  (43  M.)  Agra- 
mdn we  descend  to  the  MundOy  which  here  penetrates  the  mountains 
by  a  deep  *Hoyo  or  gorge.  We  cross  the  Rambla  de  SaUavdr.  — 
5072  ^  -2^  Minaa  del  Mundo,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Mundo  and 
the  Segura  (p.  283),  with  valuable  sulphur-mines,  which  belong  to 
the  state  and  produce  about  440  tons  of  sulphur  annually. 

The  railway  now  follows  the  winding  course  of  the  Segura,  which 
sweeps  to  the  S.  round  the  Sierra  de  la  Cabeza.  Rice  is  grown  in 
the  marshes.  The  train  penetrates  the  conglomerate  hills  by  two 
tuimels  and  reaches  a  district,  the  wealth  of  which  consists  in  its 
esparto  grass  (Macrochloa  tencuissima),  a  useful  plant  which  is  cut 
twice  in  the  year.  The  young  stems  afford  an  excellent  fodder  for 
cattle,  while  the  fibrous  leaves  are  made  into  matting,  baskets,  ropes, 
and  sandals.  Their  chief  use,  however,  is  now  in  the  manufacture 
of  paper,  for  which  large  quantities  are  exported  to  England. 

541/2  M.  Calatparra,  the  first  station  in  Murcia;  the  town  lies 
2V2  M.  to  the  S.W.,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river.  Rice  is  cultiv- 
ated here.  —  The  railway,  still  high  above  the  Segura,  now  bends 
to  the  E.  and  crosses  two  ramblas  descending  from  the  Sierra  de  lar 
Cabeza.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  are  the  Cerro  de  SoUraos, 
the  Cabeza  del  A»no^  and  other  curiously-shaped  mountains.  The 
solitariness  of  this  district  of  denuded  hills  (terreras)  and  gorges  ? 


286  Route  31.  CIEZA.  From  CMnchUla 

broken  here  and  there  by  a  farm  or  a  round  hut  thatched  with  es- 
parto grass.  A  herd  of  goats  or  a  small  patch  of  rye  Is  also  occasion- 
ally seen.  —  69V2  M.  Cie8a(690  ft.),  a  town  with  8300  inhab.,  pic- 
turesquely situated  in  an  olive-grove  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Segura. 
The  immediate  huerta  of  the  town  is  very  fertile,  and  we  now  reach 
the  zone  of  the  regular  orange-culture.  A  large  fair  takes  place  here 
on  Aug.  16th.  —  Near  the  town  are  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  Roman 
fortification. 

From  Oieza  the  train  runs  to  the  S.,  following  the  Segura,  through 
a  desert  destitute  even  of  esparto  grass.  Fine  retrospect  of  the  town 
and  of  the  jagged  peaks  of  the  Segura  valley.  —  76  M.  Blanca  lies 
to  the  right,  on  the  Segura,  and  is  commanded  by  the  Pena  Negra^ 
with  the  ruins  of  a  Moorish  castle.  Numerous  orange-groves.  To 
the  left  rises  the  Sierra  de  la  Pila.  —  84  M.  Archena^  a  town  with 
2700  iuhab.,  lies  on  the  Segura,  472  M.  to  the  W.  A  little  to  the 
N.,  in  a  side- valley,  lie  the  BafioB  de  Archena  (two  hotels),  the 
warm  sulphur-springs  of  which  (126®  Fahr.)  yield  about  88,000  gal- 
lons daily  and  attract  several  thousand  visitors.  The  seasons  are 
April-June  and  Sept.  1st  to  Nov.  20th. 

87V2  M.  Lorquij  with  a  small  natron-lake.  Near  it  Publius  and 
GnaBus  Scipio  were  defeated  by  Masiuissa.  —  To  the  left,  as  we 
proceed,  lies  Molina,  with  its  saline  springs.  The  train  crosses  the 
Segura.  —  90  M.  AlgvMzas  lies  on  the  Mula,  which  descends  from 
the  Sierra  de  la  MuLa  (5190  ft.)  and  is  notorious  for  its  *avenidas* 
(p.  242).  We  cross  the  stream  by  an  iron  bridge.  —  9172  M.  Co^ 
tiUa8j  with  a  palace  of  the  Marques  de  Gorvera,  to  whom  most  of  the 
soil  here  belongs.  We  cross  the  Rambla  Salada.  To  the  left  is  Ja- 
hali  Ntievo. 

9572  M.  Alcantarilla,  a  town  of  4300  inhab.,  is  the  junction  of 
the  line  to  Baza  and  Granada  (R.  32).  It  lies  at  the  beginning  of 
the  Huerta  ofMurcia  and  on  the  great  Wuelta*  of  the  Segura,  which 
here  makes  a  right-angled  turn  to  the  E.  To  the  left  is  a  large  weir 
(ffresa),  which  draws  off  from  the  river  the  water  necessary  to  irrigate 
the  huerta.  In  the  distance  are  seen  Murcia^  the  Monte  Agudo^  and 
the  Montana  de  Fuemanta  (p.  289).  —  Farther  on  we  pass  the  large 
Convento  de  los  I^ailes  de  San  JerdrUmo  and  the  village  of  Jahali 
Viejo  (left).  The  peasants'  huts  (harraccu)  and  circular  ovens  (homos) 
are  curious.  —  100  M.  Murcia, 


Moroia.  —  The  Sailway  Station  (EstcuHdn)  lies  to  the  S.  of  the  town, 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Segura. 

Kotelt.  HdTEL  VsiYXBBAL^  Plaea  de  San  Francisco  8;  Fonda  del 
CoMEBGio,  Calle  del  Principe  Alfonso.  —  €a/4  Imperial^  near  the  Fonda 
del  Comercio. 

*      Pott  Office  (Correo)^  Plaza  de  Fontes,  to  the  N.W.   of  the  cathedral. 
->  Telegraph  Of&ce,  Calle  Barrio  Naevo. 

Shops*    The  celebrated  Manias  of  Murcia,  as  well  as  Earrinffs  and 
^her  articles  of  gold  and  silver,  may  be  obtained  at  several  shops  in  the 
lie  de  la  Plateria. 


to  Cartagena.  IIURCIA.  31.  Boute.  287 

TmAto  Somia,  Plaxa  de  Julian  Rom<^a.  —  Plasa  de  Toroa,  to  the  W. 
of  the  towB. 

The  Karketf  held  on  Wed.  and  Sat.  in  the  Arenal  and  the  adjacent 
8ido-«treet0,)8hoald  be  yisited  to  see  both  the  eoatomea  of  the  peasantry 
(memtasy  fckjo»^  alparffoicut  etc.)  and  the  f;las8 ,  pottery ,  and  saiddle-bags 
(atforjaa)  offered  for  sale.  —  In  Holy  Week  (Stmana  Santa)  imposing 
ProeeisiofU  are  held. 

Chief  Attraettons  (half-a-day) :  Cathedral,  with  view  from  the  tower; 
CaUe  del  JYine^e  Al/oneo;  CalU  de  la  Flaterioi  Uakcon;  Ermita  de  Jetue. 

Murda  (140  ft.),  the  Medindt  Mwsiyah  of  the  Moors,  is  tlie  capital 
of  the  former  kingdom  and  the  present  province  of  the  same  name, 
and  has  been  the  seat  of  a  bishop  since  1291 .  Pop.  29,900.  It  lies 
on  the  N.  bank  of  the  Segura  (the  Tader  of  the  Ancients  and  the 
Skehura  of  the  Moors),  which  descends  from  the  Oastilian  plateau, 
traverses  the  blooming  huerta  of  Mureia,  then  flows  to  the  E.  past 
Orihuela  and  Dolores,  and  finally  loses  itself  in  the  Mediterranean, 
here  destitute  of  harbours.  The  city  still  preserves  a  semi-Oriental 
character,  but  has  no  special  objects  of  interest  except  the  cathedral. 
The  delights  of  a  visit  to  Mureia  lie  mainly  in  its  beautiful  situa- 
tion, the  view  of  the  Montafia  de  Fuensanta  (p.  289),  the  promenades 
in  the  passes,  and  the  study  of  the  half-Moorish  inhabitants. 

The  climate  of  Mureia  (comp,  p.  244)  is  liable  to  more  variation 
than  that  of  the  maritime  towns.  The  summer  is  extremely  warm 
(maximum  120®Fahr.),  and  the  winter  is  comparatively  cold.  While 
at  Barcelona  the  thermometer  almost  never  falls  below  freezing 
point,  ten  degrees  of  frost  are  by  no  means  unheard  of  in  Mureia. 
The  young  plants  are  often  frost-bitten  on  the  nights  of  March  and 
have  to  be  protected  against  the  N.  wind  by  potsherds.  The  elms, 
planes,  mulberries,  and  fig-trees  seldom  put  forth  their  leaves  before 
the  second  half  of  March. 

The  city  is  unknown  to  history  before  its  occupation  by  the  Moors. 
After  the  fall  of  the  caliphate  of  Cordova  it  belonged  in  turn  to  Almeria^ 
Toledo,  and  SevUle.  In  1172  it  feU  into  the  hands  of  the  Ahnohade*  (p.  309), 
and  from  1224  to  1243  it  formed  an  independent  Moorish  kingdom  under 
^Abdallah  el-^Adil.  In  the  latter  year  it  was  taken  by  Ferdinand  III.  of 
Castile.  Numerous  Catalan,  Aragonese,  and  French  families  then  took  up 
their  abode  here,  and  their  names  are  still  preserved.  A  rebellion  against 
Al/onso  the  Learned  in  1266  was  put  down.  In  the  War  of  the  Spanish 
Succession  BUhop  Luis  de  BeUuga  successfully  defended  the  town  against 
the  troops  of  the  Archduke  of  Austria  by  placing  the  huerta  under  water. 
In  1651  and  in  1879  Mureia  suffered  terribly  from  inundations. 

From  the  Sailway  Station  the  Paseo  del  Marques  de  Gorbera  leads 
to  the  two-arched  Segura  Bridge  (view).  On  the  left  this  paseo  is 
joined  by  the  Paseo  i>b  Flobidablanca  ,  with  Its  fine  avenue  of 
plane-trees  and  a  Monument  to  Floridctblanca ,  the  minister  of 
Charles  III.,  who  was  a  native  of  Mureia. 

The  large  sunny  square  to  the  N.  of  the  bridge  is  the  Arbnal 
or  Plaza  de  la  Con8tUuci6n.  On  its  £.  side  is  the  Olorieta  (band  in 
the  evenings),  affording  fine  views  of  the  river  and  of  the  imposing 
S.  facades  of  the  Casa  de  Ayuntamiento  and  the  Palacio  Episcopal. 

The  finest  view  of  the  cathedral  and  its  effective  W.  facade  is 
obtained  from  the  Plaza  de  Palacio,  to  the  N.  of  the  Bishop's  Palace 


288   Route  31.  MURCIA.  From  ChincMlla 

*  The  Cathedral  (Santa  Maria),  a  Gothic  building  founded  by 
Bishop  Penaranda  in  1358,  on  the  site  of  a  mosque,  was  partly 
modernized  and  provided  with  its  lofty  Renaissance  dome  in  1521. 
The  handsome  baroque  facade  was  erected  in  the  18th  cent,  by 
Jaime  Bort.  The  Tower  (see  below),  adjoining  the  N.  transept,  is 
conspicuous  from  a  great  distance.  The  Portada  de  los  ApdstoUs 
(S.)  is  Gothic;  the  Portada  de  las  Ldgrimas,  giving  on  the  Plaza  de 
Cadenas,  to  the  N.  of  the  churoh,'is  attributed  to  Berrugttete. 

iNiEBioB.  The  Capilla  Matob  is  adorned  with  numeroas  statues  of 
kings  and  saints.  A  sarcopliagas  in  a  niche  to  the  left  contains  the  heart 
and  viscera  of  Alfonso  the  Learned.  To  the  right  are  the  remains  of  8t. 
FiOgentiui  and  St.  Florentina.  The  High  AUar  has  a  modem  gilded  retablo, 
with  a  painting  of  Christ  elevating  the  Host.  —  The  Gobo  contains  modern 
stalls.  The  Traseoro  is  adjoined  by  a  large  chapel,  and  above  this  is  the 
organ,  the  pipes  of  which  protrude  like  cannons.  —  The  Pulpit  at  the 
S.E.  angle  of  the  crossing  and  the  two  other  pulpits  in  the  capilla  mayor 
all  deserve  attention.  —  The  Chapels  possess  many  features  of  interest. 
In  the  4ih  Chapel  of  the  right  aisle  is  a  fine  relief  of  the  Nativity  by  an 
unknown  master  of  the  Renaissance.  Opposite,  on  the  outside  of  the  eoro, 
is  a  Holy  Family  by  an  unknown  master.  In  the  CapiUa  del  Sagrario  is  a 
Marriage  of  the  Virgin  by  Juanet  (1616).  The  Capilla  de  San  JoU  contains 
a  copy  of  Raphael's  St.  Luke  painting  the  Madonna.  In  the  CapiUa  del 
Marquis  de  los  Vilez  we  notice  the  portal,  the  stone  chains  hung  on  the 
walls,  and  the  figure  of  St.  Jerome  by  Francisco  ZarcUlo.  The  CapiUa  del 
Marquis  Noveldes  is  a  modem  Gothic  structure.  —  The  SagbistIa  Matob, 
with  its  beautiful  Renaissance  portal,  contains  some  fine  wood-carvings 
by  Bemiguete  (1525)  and  a  custodia  by  Perez  de  Montalbo  (16»77). 

The  Tower  (480  ft.  high)  of  the  cathedral  was  begun  by  Card. 
Mateo  de  Langa  in  1522  and  completed  in  1766.  Like  the  cathedral 
itself,  it  shows  the  hands  of  various  architects :  Berruguete,  JBerrera, 
MontaneSj  and  Ventura  RodrCguez,  It  consists  of  several  sections, 
diminishing  in  size  as  they  ascend ;  but  the  ordinary  comparison 
to  an  extended  telescope  is  not  very  happy.  It  remained  uninjured 
by  the  earthquake  of  1829. 

Entering  by  the  door  adjoining  the  N.  transept,  we  ascend  at  first  by 
18  inclined  planes  and  then  by  44  tail  steps  to  the  belfry,  which  com- 
mands a  wide  view.  The  enthusiast  may  climb  the  123  remaining  steps 
to  the  lantern,  but  this  feat  should  hardly  be  attempted  by  ladies.  —  The 
*ViEW  embraces  the  valley  of  the  Segura  and  that  of  the  Sangonero  up 
to  Lorca  (p.  297);  to  the  S.,  the  Montana  de  la  Fuensanta,  with  its  er- 
mita;  to  the  E.,  the  cemetery  and  Mte.  Agudo  (p.  289).  Beyond  the  Se- 
gura are  the  Paseo  de  Florid ablanca.  the  railway-station,  and  the  avenue 
of  elms  on  the  road  to  Cartagena.  To  the  N.W.  is  the  Hieronymite  con- 
vent (p.  286).  To  the  N.  the  colourless  plateau  rises  gradually  to  the 
mountains.  —  Fee  to  the  ^campanero'  25-50  c. 

From  the  cathedral  the  narrow  Calle  del  Principe  Alfonso  (for- 
merly the  CaUe  de  la  Trapevia)^  the  chief  business- street  of  Murcia, 
containing  many  interesting  balconied  houses,  leads  to  the  N.  to  the 
spacious  Plaza  de  Santo  Domingo,  which  is  planted  with  trees.  Its 
upper  part  is  intersected  by  the  Plaieriay  a  street  containing  many 
of  the  best  shops,  but  so  narrow  that  wheeled  traffic  is  altogether 
excluded  from  it.  In  summer  it  is  protected  against  the  sun  by 
movable  awnings  (toldos),  —  To  the  S.W.  the  Plateria  ends  at  the 
^laza  de  Monasot,  on  the  E.  side  of  which  stands  the  old  church  of 


to  Cartagena.  MURCIA.  31.  Route     289 

Santa  CatcUina^  contuning  some  fine  tombs.  On  the  S.  side  is 
the  Contrasttj  a  building  originally  Intended  for  the  safe-keeping  of 
weights  and  measures  and  bearing  coats-of-arms  and  inscriptions. 

The  W.  quarters  of  the  tovn  are  largely  occupied  by  gUanoa 
(p.  343)  or  gipsies.  The  church  of  San  Nicolas  contains  a  group  of 
St.  Joseph  and  the  Holy  Child  by  Mala,  and  a  statuette  of  St.  An- 
tony, in  the  dress  of  the  Capuchins ,  by  Alonso  Cano.  Near  the 
Conyento  de  Agustinas  is  the  Ermita  de  JeaHs^  which  contains  a 
series  of  excellent  pasoSy  or  processional  figures,  by  Francisco  Zar- 
dllo,  including  the  Last  Supper,  the  Agony  In  the  Garden,  and  the 
Kiss  of  Judas  (comp.  p.  Ixi).  In  the  procession  on  Maundy  Thurs- 
day the  table  in  the  group  of  the  Last  Supper  is  spread  with  the 
most  costly  dishes,  famished  by  the  rich  families  of  Murcia. 

To  the  W.  of  the  Arendl  (p.  287)  lie  the  small  Botanic  Garden 
and  the  Alh6ndiga  or  Almudi.  The  latter,  also  called  the  Almudena^ 
is  the  old  grain-magasine  (al-funduk)  of  the  Moors,  with  two  vesti- 
bules, coats-of-arms,  and  an  inscription  of  1575.  —  A  flight  of  five 
stone  steps  ascends  hence  to  the  ^Kalecon  ('quay\  'embankment'), 
the  finest,  though  shadeless,  promenade  of  Murcia.  It  closely  skirts 
the  Segura,  which  here  falls  over  a  weir  and  drives  a  few  mills.  The 
Malecon  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  town,  the  huerta,  and  the 
mountains  to  the  S.  To  the  N. ,  at  a  lower  level,  lie  groves  of  oranges 
and  palms,  which  the  Malecon  protects  from  inundations. 

XxeuruoM.  Tbe  finest,  and  shortest,  excursion  from  Murcia  is  that  to 
the  convent  of  /WiMonla,  with  its  spring,  situated  to  the  S.,  halfway  up 
the  mountain  of  its  own  name.  It  may  be  reached  by  carriage  in  >/«  ^^m 
hut  the  road  is  rather  rough.  —  A  drive  to  the  Mt€.  Ag^ido  affords  an 
excellent  survey  of  the  luxuriant  vegetation  of  the  huerta. 

From  Murcia  to  Ekhe  and  JUccmie^  see  R.  30. 


CoKTiNUATiOK  OF  THB  RAILWAY  TO  Cabtaobna.  The  train  runs 
to  the  £.,  following  the  Alicante  line  as  far  as  (10472  M.)  Beniajan 
and  (107  M.)  Alqueria  (p.  284).  It  then  quits  the  huerta,  turns  at 
right  angles  towards  the  S.,  crosses  a  thin  belt  of  olive-trees,  and 
ascends  to  a  deapoblado  (p.  244),  the  surface  of  which  is  deeply 
furrowed  by  the  action  of  rain.  The  only  signs  of  cultivation  occur 
here  and  there  in  these  depressions,  and  the  dreary  landscape  is  but 
occasionally  relieved  by  a  group  of  pines  or  olives  or  a  castle-like  farm- 
house. The  train  finally  crosses  the  Puerto  de  San  Pedro  (755  ft. 
above  the  sea)  by  a  deep  cutting.  On  the  right  appears  the  Sierra 
de  Almenara.  To  the  left  are  the  Mar  Menor  (p.  290),  with  its 
rocky  islets,  and  the  Cdbo  de  Paloa,  with  its  lighthouse.  Between 
the  mountains  and  the  coast  extends  the  Campo  de  Cartagena,  a  wide 
plain,  almost  waterless  and  abounding  in  salt.  At  the  S.  end  of  it 
lies  Cartagena. 

119  M.  Biquelme,  The  scenery  is  less  dreary.  Numerous  wind- 
mills begin  to  appear.  —  The  train  descends  to  (125  M.)  Balttcas^ 
which  is  almost  on  the  same  level  as  the  Mar  Menor. 

Baepekeb's  Spain.  1^ 


290   Route  31.  CARTAGENA.  From  Chinchilla 

The  Kar  Menor,  named  by  the  Moors  Al  Bahar  (p.  266),  is  a  salt  Al- 
bufera  or  lagoon,  separated  from  the  sea  by  a  flat  sandy  spit  and  com- 
manioating  with  it  by  a  narrow  channel  called  La  Manga  (fishing-net), 
which  may  be  closed  at  pleasure.  It  is  about  12  M.  long,  from  N.  to  S.. 
and  2-6  M.  wide.  No  rivers  of  any  size  enter  it,  so  that  the  saltness  of 
its  water  remains  constant.  At  a  distance  of  1-2  M.  from  its  W.  bank 
lie  several  villages:  8<m  Pedro  de  Pinalar,  San  Javiir^  etc.  The  Manga 
is  protected  by  a  small  military  station,  and  on  the  seaward  side  of  the 
lagoon  are  the  Torre  de  la  EnecMizada^  the  Torre  de  Estado,  Oeddn,  and 
CaJnegre.  Three  beacon-ligbts  protect  the  dangerous  coast.  The  lagoon 
contains  several  rocky  islets,  and  off  the  Cabo  de  Palos  lie  the  Islas  JBor- 
migcu  (ants).  —  The  Mar  Menor  contains  abundance  of  fish  and  seems  to 
have  been  formed  by  a  comparatively  recent  subsidence  of  the  land. 
Traces  of  Roman  smelting-works  were  found  in  it  in  1845,  and  the  fisher- 
men assert  that  remains  of  buildings  may  be  seen  at  the  bottom  in  quiet 
and  sunny  weather.  The  whole  district  is  very  subject  to  earthquakes. 
—  The  17.  end  of  the  lagoon  is  reached  from  Balticat  by  a  road  passing 
San  Javiir  and  San  Pedro;  the  S.  part  is  approached  from  La  Union  (p.  292) 
by  a  bridle-path  via  Mingote^  which  lies  opposite  the  islands.  Provisions 
should  be  taken  in  either  case. 

130  m.  PachecOj  in  a  fertile,  though  waterless  district.  We 
cross  the  rambla  of  the  AUtujon.  13372  M.  La  PcUma,  Large  euca- 
lyptus-trees are  passed.  In  the  distance,  to  the  left,  rises  the  smoke 
of  the  mines  at  La  Union  (p.  ^92).  We  pass  San  AntorUo  Abad 
(right),  a  suburb  of  Cartagena. 

141  M.  Cartagena.  —  The  Bailway  Station  (Eetaddn)  lies  to  the 
N.E.  of  the  town,  which  the  hotel-omnibuses  enter  by  the  Puerta  de 
San  Jos^. 

Hotels.  '^HoTEL  DE  Ramos  (PI.  a).  Plaza  de  San  Sebastian,  at  the  N. 
end  of  the  Calle  Mayor,  with  baths,  pens.  6-10  p.;  Fonda  Fbancesa 
(PL  b).  Plaza  Santa  Catalina;  Hot.  de  Roma  (PI.  c),  these  two  near  the 
harbour,  pens.  6-9  p.  \  Hot.  db  Fbancia  st  ds  Pabis,  Calle  de  Osuna. 

Oafes.  Cafi  de  la  Marina^  Cafi  Imperial,  both  on  the  E.  side  of  the 
Calle  Mayor;   Cafd  Suizo,  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Calle  Mayor. 

Post  Offloe  iCorreo;  PI.  4),  Plaza  de  Valarino-Togores  (PI.  C).  —  Tele- 
graph Office  (PL  8),  Calle  de  Jara. 

Banks.  Banco  de  E^cMa,  Calle  San  Francisco;  Torquera  A  Wandotell; 
W.  Ehlert^  Plaza  del  Rey. 

British  Vice-Oonsul,  John  C.  Gray  (also  Lloyd's  Agent).  —  TJ,  S.  Con- 
sul, drilo  MoUna. 

Theatres.  Teatro  Principal  (PL  11),  Plaza  del  Rey;  Teairo  del  Circo, 
Calle  de  Jabonerias.  —  Plaza  de  Tores  (PL  6),  on  the  £.  side  of  the  town. 

Steamers  ply  Xo'Almeria,  Aliamte,  Marseittes,  Oran  (9-10  hrs.),  etc. 

Ohief  Attractions  (Va-l  day).  View  from  the  CasHUo  de  la  Concepcidn; 
Arsenal;  CaUe  Majfor;  Quays  and  Sarbour. 

Cartagena ,  the  New  CaHhage  of  the  Phoenicians  and  Romans, 
and  the  Kartadjana  of  the  Arabs,  is  a  strongly  fortified  town  of 
29,300  inhab.,  the  seat  of  a  Captain-General,  one  of  the  chief  naval 
harbours  of  Spain,  and  also  one  of  the  three  largest  Departamentos 
Maritimos.  It  lies  on  the  N.  bank  of  a  deeply  indented  bay  and  in 
the  W,  part  of  the  bleak  Sierra  de  Cartagena^  which  extends  to  the 
£.  to  Cape  Palos.  It  is  dominated  by  the  Castillo  de  la  C&ncepeinSn 
(230  ft. ;  PL  7),  a  hill  sprinkled  with  many  ruins.  The  narrow  en- 
trance to  the  harbour,  which  after  that  of  Vigo  is  the  largest  in  the 
country,  is  protected  by  the  Castillo  de  las  OaUras  (650  ft. ;  W.) 
md  the  Castillo  de  San  Julian  (920  ft. ;  E.),  two  forts  crowning  two 


t 


1  ^ 


to  Cartagena,  CARTAGENA.  3/.  RouU,   Wl 

preeipltoas  Toleanie  cHfTs.  The  onter  part  of  the  bay  it  sheltered  on 
the  S^.  by  the  small  island  of  Escombrera ;  and  the  town  is  protected 
on  the  flanks  by  three  other  forts,  the  Aiaiaya  (655  ft.)  on  the  W. 
and  the  Ca$UUo  de  Detpeiiapenoa  and  the  CattiUo  de  loa  Moros  on  tho 
£.  In  the  backgronnd,  between  Forts  Atalaya  and  Las  Galeras,  Is 
seen  the  volcanic  Algameca.  The  geological  prolongation  of  the  bay 
towards  the  N.  is  the  former  lake  of  Almajdr^  which  has  been 
drained  by  the  Algameca  Canal.  —  The  climate  of  Cartagena  is 
singularly  mild;  bnt  the  Miatraly  or  N.W.  wind,  is  often  trouble- 
some in  winter.  The  town  is  furnished  with  excellent  drinking-water 
hy  a  new  aqueduct. 

In  antiquity  Cartagena  was  sometimes  called  Carthago  JS^artmia,  on 
account  of  tbe  esparto  grass  (p.  285)  which  covered  its  hills.  It  wns 
founded  by  Hasdmbal  in  B.  C.  228  as  the  keystone  of  the  Carthaginian 
dominion  in  Spain,  but  it  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Romans,  through 
Seipio  the  Younger,  as  early  as  B.  C.  909.  Both  under  the  Gartiiaginians 
and  under  the  Romans  it  passed  for  the  richest  and  largest  town  in  tho 
peninsula.  Under  the  Moors  Kartadjana  formed  an  independent  kingdom, 
which  Ferdinand  II.  of  Castile  conquered  in  1343.  The  Moors,  however, 
overran  It  once  more«  and  it  did  not  come  finally  into  Spanish  hand^ 
until  the  time  of  Jaime  I,  of  Aragon  (d.  1276).  It  was  from  Cartagena  that 
Card,  Xim^nez  sailed  in  1909  for  his  famous  attack  on  Oran.  In  1873 
Cartagena  attracted  notice  by  its  communist  rebellion  against  the  centr  1 
government. 

A  visit  to  the  town  is  best  begun  at  the  Muelle  de  Alfonso  Doce^ 
a  fine  quay  which  skirts  the  harbour  from  the  Puerta  del  Mar  (erected 
in  1786)  to  the  suburb  of  Santa  Lucia  (p.  292).  Or  we  may  begin 
with  the  MuraUa  del  Mar^  which  runs  parallel  with  the  quay  (ap- 
proach from  the  Plaza  Santa  Gatalina,  see  below).  The  view  includes 
tbe  BxiU  Ring  and  the  Hospital  MiUtair  to  the  E.,  and  the  Presidio 
and  the  Arsenal  (p.  292)  to  the  W. 

Immediately  to  the  N.W.  of  the  Puerta  del  Mar  lies  the  Plaza 
de  Santa  Gatalina,  with  its  palms.  A  little  to  the  E.,  on  the  slope 
of  the  castle-hill,  lie  the  remains  of  the  Old  Cathedral  (Iglesia  An- 
tigua ;  PI.  14),  a  Gothic  structure  of  the  13th  century. 

The  Plaza  de  Santa  Gatalina  is  continued  towards  the  N.W.  by 
the  Galls  Ma  yob,  the  chief  business-street  of  the  town,  but  never- 
theless closed  to  all  wheeled  traffic.  To  the  left  stands  the  Capita- 
nid  Qeneral.  The  street ,  which  contains  little  of  interest,  ends  at 
the  Puerta  de  Madrid,  the  N.W.  gate  of  the  city.  Hence  a  pas^o, 
with  six  rows  of  elms,  leads  across  the  valley  of  the  Almajar  (see 
above)  to  San  Antonio  Abad  (p.  290).  To  the  left  lies  the  Barrio 
QuitapeyejOy  with  a  large  palm-garden. 

To  tiie  E.  of  the  Calle  Mayor,  at  the  corner  of  the  Calle  del  Aire, 
stands  the  church  of  Santa  Maria  de  Oracia  (PI.  9),  containing  an 
altar-group  by  Francisco  Zarcillo  (p.  Ixi).  —  To  the  N.E.  of  this 
church  lie  the  attractive  Plata  de  la  Ccmstitucidn  (PI.  A),  with  its 
fountains  and  flower-beds,  the  Plaza  de  la  Merced  (PI.  B),  and  tho 
Puerta  de  San  Jos6,  the  N.E.  gate  of  the  city. 

19* 


292  Routt  31,  CARTAGENA. 

From  this  gate  a  dusty  road  leads  to  the  S.,  past  the  WaJter  Tower ^ 
to  Santa  Luda,  a  suburb  situated  below  the  Fort  San  Julian  and 
containing  smeiting-works  and  heaps  of  lead-ore. 

The  chief  sight  of  Cartagena  is  the  Arsenal,  a  creation  of  the 
years  1874-76.  Permission  to  visit  It  may  be  obtained  at  the 
Capitanfa  General  (p.  291)  before  11  a.m.,  or  at  the  entrance  of  the 
Arsenal  itself,  opposite  the  Plaza  del  Rey  (PL  D),  after  11  a.m.  (fee 
of  1  p.  to  soldier-guide).  We  ilrst  reach  a  spacious  and  attractive 
court,  with  palms,  eucalyptus-trees,  and  beds  of  flowers.  Among 
the  chief  features  of  the  Arsenal,  most  of  them  interesting  to  the 
professional  yisitor  only,  may  be  mentioned  the  machine-shop,  the 
steam-crane  (maehina) ,  the  floating  dock  (dique  flotante) ,  and  the 
dredger  (draga).  At  every  corner  are  fountains  of  excellent  water. 
The  Ddrsena,  or  basin  of  the  Arsenal ,  was  probably  the  ancient 
harbour  of  the  Carthaginians  and  Romans.  The  convicts  (preaos)  of 
the  Presidio  (p.  291)  are  largely  employed  in  the  works  of  the 
Arsenal.   Fine  view  of  the  mountains  to  the  W. 

The  Calle  Real,  running  past  the  Arsenal ,  forms  a  pleasant 
promenade  and  ends  on  the  N.  W.  not  far  from  the  Puerta  de  Madrid. 

A  Stbah  Txakwat  iTramvia  a  Vapor;  six  trains  daily  ^  fares  1  p.,  65  c.)i 
slarting  at  the  Puerta  de  San  Jos^  (see  above),  runs  from  Cartagena  to  the 
8.  W.,  yii  AlumbreSy  to  (6  M.)  La  TJnion  (formerly  named  Herrerii*)y  the  focus 
of  one  of  the  busiest  mining  districts  in  Spain.  The  population,  amount- 
ing to  about  90,000,  is  almost  wholly  connected  with  the  mines.  Huge 
quantities  of  iron  ore  and  jmanganese  are  exporte^  ^^^^  ^  England, 
An     *  '" 


\merica,  and  Germany  (168,003  tons  in  1884).  About  00,000  tons  of  argenti- 
orous  lead  are  also  exported  -        »..  .  -  ..         -       , 

in  an  almost  pure  condition. 


forous  lead  are  also  exported  annually.    The  metals  are  sometimes  found 
nditi 


V.  ANDALUSIA. 


32.  From  Hurcia  to  Granada  vift  Lorca,  Baxa,  and  Guadix  297 

Totana,  287.  —  From  Bmpalme  to  Aguilas,  296.  —  From 
Onadix  to  Almerf^,  299. 

33.  From  Madrid  to  Seville  via  Alcazar,    C6rdova,   and 
Toclna 300 

From  ManxaBarea  to  Ciudad  Real.  From  Valdepefias  to 
La  Galsada  de  Calatrava,  301.  —  From  Vadollano  to 
Linarea  and  thence  to  Bapelay,  803.  —  From  Cordova  to 
Btflmes  and  Almorchdo,  303.  — -  From  Oaadi^os  to  Car- 
mona,  904. 

34.  From  Espeluy  to  Jatfn  and  Puente  Genii 305 

From  Jatfn  to  Granada,  306. 

35.  Cordova 307 

36.  From  Oordova  to  Malaga  via  Puente  Genii  and  Bobadllla  319 

From  Yalchillon  (Cordova)  to  Cadis  vii  Harehena  and 
Utrera.  Mont  ilia,  819.  —  Alora,  820.  —  From  Giirtama 
to  Coin  and  Marbella.  From  Coin  to  Torremolinos  and 
Malaga  via  Alhaarin  el  Grande  and  Mijas,  321. 

37.  Malaga 321 

38.  From  Bobadllla  (Cordova)  to  Granada 328 

Anteqoera,  828.  —  From  Loja  to  Alhama,  830. 

39.  Granada  and  the  Alhambra 331 

a.  The  City  of  Granada 336 

b.  The  Alhambra 349 

c.  The  Generalife 367 

d.  Excursions  in  the  Upper  Valley  of  the  Genii  and 

the  Sierra  Nevada 368 

40.  From  Bobadllla  to  Gibraltar  vi&  Ronda  and  Algeciras  369 

From  Gibraltar  to  La  Linea  and  Campamento,  380. 

41.  From  Gibraltar  to  Cadiz  via  Tangier 380 

te.  From  Bobadllla  to  Utrera  (Seville,  Cadiz)  via  La  Roda 

and  Marchena 386 

43.  Seville 387 

a.  The  Plaza  del  Triunfo  with  the  Alcazar  and  the  Cathedral  396 

b.  The  Central,  Eastern^nd  Northern  Parts  of  the  City  408 

c.  The  Weatem,  South -Western,  and  Sonth-Eaatem  Parts 

of  the  City 413 

d.  Triana  and  the  Right  Bank  of  the  Gaadalquivir   ...   420 
Excursions  from  Seville :  1.  Italica,  420.  —  2.  Via  Alcald 

de  Gaadaira  to  Carmona,  423. 

44.  From  Seville  to  Huelva.  La  Babida.   Palos.  Rio  Tinto 
Mines 423 

Caatilleja  de  la  Cuesta. .  San  Juan  de  Aznalfarache,  423. 

45.  From  SevlUe  to  Cadiz 425 

a.  By  steamer  ria  San  Lucar  de  Barrameda,  425.  —  Branch 
Eailways  from  San  Lticar  to  Jerez  and  to  Puerto  de  Santa 
Maria.  426.  —  b.  By  railway  via  Utrera  and  Jerez,  427. 
—  From  Jerez  to  Arcos.  From  Arcos  to  Bornos  and 
Eonda, 431.  —Puerto  de  Santa  Maria,  432.  —Puerto  Real. 
San  Fernando,  483. 
'46.  Cadiz ^ 

19/20 


294  ANDALUSIA. 

Andaltuia,  the  Bonthernmost  part  of  Spain,  embraces  the  pro- 
ylnces  of  Sevilla,  Huelva,  Cadi%y  Cdrdova^  Jain,  Orandda,  and 
Almeridf  with  a  joint  area  of  33,812  sq.  M.  and  a  population  of 
3,429,800.  The  basin  of  the  Guadalquiyib  adjoins  the  S.  part  of 
the  central  plateau  of  Spain  very  much  as  the  basin  of  the  Ebro 
(p.  160)  adjoins  it  on  the  N.  A  subsidence  of  300-400  ft.  would 
suffice  to  lay  under  water  the  whole  territory  between  the  Sierra 
Morena  and  the  coast-mountains  to  the  S.  These  coast-monntains 
include  the  Sierra  Nevada  (^snow  mountains'),  the  highest  elevation 
in  Spain.  On  the  E.  they  are  connected  with  the  central  plateau  by 
extensive  waste-lands  (detpobladot),  A  few  salt  lakes  still  remain 
to  indicate  the  arm  of  the  sea  formerly  enclosed  by  the  mountains. 
All  that  would  be  again  covered  by  the  sea,  if  the  above  suggested 
subsidence  took  place,  is  known  as  AndalueCa  Baja^  or  Lower  An- 
dalusia, while  the  rest  is  Andalueid  AUa. 

In  conformity  with  its  position  and  configuration,  Andalusia 
has  always  had  two  faces.  Lower  Andalusia,  the  supposed  Tarshish 
of  the  Bible  and  the  Tartessus  of  classic  days,  looks  out  on  the  At- 
lantic Ocean,  while  the  main  relations  of  Upper  Andalusia  are  with, 
the  Mediterranean.  In  the  earliest  times  the  Mediterranean  nations, 
such  as  the  Phoenicians,  Greeks,  and  Carthaginians,  contented 
themselves  with  visiting  the  seaports  that  were  ensconced  in  the 
amphitheatrical  recesses  of  the  mountains  fringing  the  S.E.  coast. 
The  task  of  transporting  the  products  of  the  interior  across  the  range 
was  left  to  the  aborigines.  In  this  way  arose  the  cities  of  CarUja 
(p.  373;  perhaps  the  oldest  harbour  on  this  coast),  Malaga,  Cartagena, 
Adra(Abdera),  &ndAlmeria,  Alittlelater  came  the  Phoenician  settle- 
ments in  Lower  Andalusia,  such  as  Oadir  (Cadiz)  and  KartcUuba 
(Cordova),  and  probably  also  Sephela,  the  Roman  Hispalis  and 
modern  Seville.  The  Carthaginians,  who  had  established  them- 
selves in  the  Balearic  Isles,  first  entered  Andalusia  in  B.C.  516, 
having  been  summoned  to  the  aid  of  the  Gaditanians.  After  the 
Punic  Wars  came  the  domination  of  the  Romans,  who  ultimately 
(27  A.D.)  formed  the  whole  of  S.  Spain  into  the  J^ovinda  Baeticaj 
so  caUed  after  the  river  Bsetis  or  Guadalquivir.  On  the  break-up 
of  the  Roman  empire  Andalusia  was  overrun  by  the  Yandals,  Suevi, 
and  Visigoths ;  and  to  the  first  of  these  it  may  possibly  owe  its 
name  (Vandalitia  or  Vandalutia).  Early  in  the  8th  cent,  it  passed 
into  the  possession  of  the  Arabs  and  Berbers ,  who  had  crossed 
(711)  the  strait  between  Africa  and  Europe  at  the  rocky  pro- 
montory that  to  this  day  commemorates  the  name  of  their  leader 
(Gibraltar  =  Djebel  Tarik  or  bill  of  Tarik).  They  called  their  new 
conquest  El  Andxtbas  —  a  name  that  they  afterwards  extended  to 
the  whole  Iberian  Peninsula,  for  the  conquest  of  which  Andalusia 
served  as  base.  The  Moors  maintained  their  footing  in  Andalusia 
tUl  the  13th  cent.,  long  after  they  had  lost  the  rest  of  Spain ;  and 
'  1492  Granada  fell  into  the  hands  of  Ferdinand  the  Catholic. 


ANDALUSIA.  295 

The  viduitiideB  .throngh  which  the  country  has  passed  are 
reflected  in  its  present  Inhabitants.  Half-Earopean  and  half- 
African,  at  one  time  Christian  and  at  another  Pagan,  they  have 
absorbed  something  from  every  nation  that  raled  oyer  them  and 
bare  spoken  the  tongne  of  each  successiye  conqaeror.  The  popular 
'Romance'  language  of  Spain,  derixed  from  the  Latin,  had  here  to 
snbmit  to  Tery  considerable  modification  dnring  the  Moorish  period ; 
and  to  this  day  the  speech  of  the  Andalusian  contains  a  very  much 
larger  proportion  of  Arabic  words  than  that  of  the  Gastilian.  Almost 
eyery  word  connected  with  the  soil,  with  the  implements  of  hus- 
bandry, and  with  irrigation  is  Arabic.  The  dances  and  mnslc  of  the 
people  are  distinctly  Oriental.  As  a  matter  of  fact  a  large  part 
of  the  inhabitants  are  descendants  of  the  Moors  who  embraced 
Christianity  in  order  to  escape  the  nniyersal  expulsion  of  the 
Moriscoes  in  the  i6th  century. 

To  his  Oriental  relations  it  is  that  the  Andalusian  (AndcMz^ 
AndaUita)  owes  his  exuberant  imagination.  The  French  are  wont 
to  compare  him  with  the  Gascon.  No  greater  contrast  can  be 
imagined  than  that  between  the  dignified  and  proud  Gastilian  and 
the  volatile  Andalusian,  who  accepts  fancy  for  fact,  sees  everything 
as  throngh  a  magnifying  glass,  and  is  always  prone  to  indulge  in 
'fanfarronados'.  Nothing,  on  the  other  hand,  is  more  charming  than 
the  bearing  of  an  Andalusian  Maja,  who,  characteristioally  enough, 
is  admired  rather  for  her  wit,  her  grace,  and  her  power  of  repartee 
than  for  her  beauty.  The  SiU  Andaluza  is  as  proverbial  as  the  Attic 
salt  of  the  ancients.  A  nUadOf  or  'salted'  fair  one,  pleases  the  An- 
dalusian more  than  the  most  ravishing  of  tongue-tied  beauties. 
The  word  tdUro  (salt-cellar)  is  used  as  Invocation  to  a  trial  of  wits, 
to  a  song,  or  to  a  dance. 

iSalero!  viva  el  salero!  Salero,  long  live  the  salero! 

i  8«lero  1  viva  la  aal !  Salero,  long  live  the  salt ! 

Que  tiene  Usted  mas  salero  You  possess  more  salero 

Que  el  salero  universal.  Than  the  salero  of  the  whole  world. 

Another  'solear'  advises  a  cold  beauty  to  betake  herself  to  the 
salt-works  and  .provide  herself  with  salt: 

Tu  tienea  mu  poca  s^ ; 
Corre  bete  a  las  saUnas 
Que  te  la  acaben  de  ech^. 

The  Andalusian  is  the  bom  Qradoso  of  the  Spanish  drama,  the 
Leporello  and  Figaro  of  the  operatic  stage ;  in  his  graver  form  he 
appears  as  Torero  or  Contfaharxdiaia,  The  little  town  of  Chiclana 
is  the  home  of  the  most  renowned  bull-fighters,  and  the  Serranfa 
de  Ronda  is  the  recognized  haunt  of  the  smuggler.  There  is  scarce- 
ly [a  better- known  song  in  Spain  than  'Yo  que  soy  contraban- 
dista*.  Another  popular  character  was  the  Bandolero  or  Secueatra- 
dofy  the  Andalusian  brigand,  who  kidnapped  wealthy  citizens  in 
order  to  hold  them  for  ransom.  If  he  fell  into  the  power  of  the 
authorities  through  the  exertions  of  the  Guardia  Civil  (p.  xxiv),  th' 


296  ANDALUSIA. 

fate  of  the  'Unlacky  One'  (desdiehado)  was  celebrated  in  a  ^leyenda 
patriotlca'.  For  the  hero  of  the  Spanish  people  has  always  been 
the  enemy  of  society. 

Andalnsia  contains  the  largest  and  most  interesting  BviLDDrGs 
of  Spain,  snch  as  the  Gothic  Cathedral  of  SevdU^  the  Motque  of 
Cordova^  the  Alhambra^  the  Oiralda,  and  the  Alcdzar  of  Seville,  All 
of  these,  except  the  first,  are  monnments  of  the  period  of  the  Moors, 
who,  aided  by  the  natural  wealth  of  the  land  and  the  lavish  favours 
of  a  southern  sky,  made  Andalusia  the  centre  of  a  brilliant  civil- 
ization. In  spite  of  all  that  is  fantastic  and  exaggerated,  the  first 
glimpse  of  the  forest  of  columns  in  the  Mosque  of  Cordova  or  the 
view  from  the  Torre  de  Vela  at  the  Alhambra  must  always  mark  an 
epoch  in  the  life  of  the  impressionable  traveller. 

The  Natusal  Sobnsbt  is  no  less  attractive.  In  this  respect 
Andalusia  bears  the  same  relation  to  the  interior  of  Spain  as 
Sicily  does  to  the  Italian  mainland,  or  Provence  to  the  rest  of  S. 
France.  It  unites  within  a  comparatively  narrow  compass  all  that 
is  scattered  widely  over  the  rest  of  the  peninsula.  To  the  £.  are 
vast  plateaux  and  steppes,  frozen  in  winter  and  parched  in  sum- 
mer, with  a  few  lofty  mountains  rising  above  them ;  on  the  S.W. 
are  the  sand-dunes  of  the  Atlantic  coast.  The  Guadalquivir  rolls 
down  to  the  sea  through  a  profusion  of  olive-groves;  the  Sierra 
Morena  is  overgrown  with  great  carpets  of  clstns;  the  carefully 
irrigated  vegas  teem  with  verdure ;  cotton  and  sugar-cane  thrive  in 
the  deltas  of  the  short  torrents  that  flow  into  the  Mediterranean ; 
the  summits  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  the  plateau  of  Ronda,  and  the 
Sagra  Sierra  are  wholly  destitute  of  vegetation.  Those  who  steam 
along  the  coast  to  the  S.  of  Motril  or  Adra  survey  at  one  time  all 
the  zones  of  vegetation  from  the  Equator  to  the  Arctic  Circle.  Those 
who  ascend  through  the  beautiful  valleys  of  Alpujarras  to  one  of  the 
summits  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  pass  in  a  few  hours  from  the  orange 
gardens  of  Lanjar6n,  across  rich  fields  of  maize,  wheat,  and  rye 
(which  grow  even  at  a  height  of  8600  ft),  through  forests  of  chest- 
nuts and  oaks,  and  over  wide  tracts  of  brushwood  (monte  bajo)  to 
the  so-called  *borreguiles'  (lamb-pastures)  ending  In  the  'ventis- 
queros'  of  eternal  snow.  —  The  view  from  the  top  of  the  Mulhacen, 
the  culminating  peak  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  is  one  of  the  grandest 
in  the  world,  embracing  the  Mediterranean  from  the  Cabo  de  Gata 
to  the  narrow  Strait  of  Gibraltar,  and  the  'Morerfa'  or  mainland  of 
Africa.  Experiences  almost  worthy  to  rank  with  this  are  the  view 
into  the  chasm  of  Ronda;  the  sight  of  the  Atlantic  Ocean  from  the 
ramparts  of  Cadiz,  while  the  mighty  waves  beat  furiously  against 
the  walls  of  the  city  in  whose  harbour  ouce  anchored  the  silver- 
fleets  of  America ;  or,  finally,  the  excursion  from  Seville  to  the  an- 
cient copper-mines  of  the  Rio  Tinto ,  the  water  of  which  is  dis- 
coloured by  the  metal,  and  on  to  the  harbour  of  Palos,  whence 
Columbus  sailed  to  discover  a  New  World. 


297 

32.  From  Kurcia  to  Oran&da  viA  Lorca,  Baza, 
and  Ouadix. 

180  M.  Railway  (one  through-train  dally)  to  (124  M.)  Bata  (p.  296)  in 
8»/»  hr».  (fares  2S  p.  10,  21  p.  10,  13  p.  80  c).  There  is  also  a  local  train 
from  Mnrcia  to  Lorea.  There  is  no  railway-buffet  e»  rouU.  —  Passengers 
from  CMnehiUa  (p.  378) ,  who  mean  to  forego  a  visit  to  Murcia ,  change 
carriages  in  AleanlariOa  (see  below).  —  The  railway  is  to  be  continued 
from  Basa  to  Granada,  but  this  part  of  the  joumev  must  for  the  present 
be  performed  by  Diligence  (p.  zvii),  which  starts  at  9  p.m.  and  takes  about 
20  hrs.  (fsre  for  the  berlina  20  p.).    The  road  is  bad. 

This  new  railway,  which  will  form  the  shortest  line  of  communication 
between  the  E.  coast  of  Spain  and  Andalusia,  affords  a  considerable  variety 
of  scenery.  The  luxuriant  huertas  of  Hurcia  and  Lorca  are  followed  by 
the  dreary  steppe  of  Baza  and  Guadiz  i  and  beyond  Diezma  we  traverse 
the  mountain- valleys  of  the  Sierra  de  Jarana,  enjoying  fine  views  of  the 
snow-dad  Sierra  Kevada. 

Murda^  see  p.  286.  —  The  train  follows  the  Chinchilla  railway 
(Madrid ;  R.  31)  to  (5  M.)  AUantanlla  and  then  ascends  to  the  S.  W. 
along  the  left  bank  of  the  Sangonera,  To  the  left,  in  the  huerta,  lie 
several  prospeions  Tillages.  At  Barriot^  one  of  these,  is  the  Con- 
traparada,  or  weir,  which  draws  off  the  last  water  from  the  river. 

14^2  M.  lAbfilla,  picturesquely  situated  on  both  sides  of  a  rav- 
ine. —  191/2  M.  Alhama  de  MureiOj  a  town  of  4100  inhab.,  with 
warm  sulphur  springs  (102-108®  Fahr.),  which  rise  in  the  middle 
of  the  town  and  are  used  both  for  drinking  and  hathing.  —  The 
luxuriant  vegetation  includes  gigantic  son-flowers  (tomasoUt),  the 
seeds  of  which  are  edible,  and  huge  aloes.  To  the  right  lies  the 
little  town  of  AUdo,  which  is  celebrated  for  its  wine.  It  was  for- 
merly a  strong  fortress,  and  in  the  11th  cent,  it  was  one  of  the  chief 
points  dappui  of  the  Gastilians  In  their  struggles  with  the  Moors  of 
Seville  and  the  Almoravides  (p.  309). 

271/2  M.  Totana,  a  town  of  8100  inhab.,  chiefly  gipsies  (pita- 
nos;  p.  343),  situated  amid  the  S.  spurs  of  the  huge  Sierra  de  Es- 
puna.  A  gorge  divides  the  town  into  the  Barrio  de  SeuiUa  and  the 
Barrio  de  Triana.  The  large  tinajas^  or  terracotta  jars,  of  Totana 
are  widely  used  for  holding  oil  and  wine.  —  We  cross  the  Sambla 
del  Evor  and  pass  the  Casas  de  Guevara.  To  the  left  rises  the  Sierra 
de  Almenara  (2885  ft.). 

41  M.  Lorca  (1150  ft.;  H6t.  de  Lorca;  Fonda  de  la  Roja),  the 
Eliocroca  of  the  Romans  and  the  Lurca  of  the  Moors,  is  a  town 
with  12,100  Inhab.,  situated  on  the  N.W.  slope  of  the  Sierra  del 
Cano  and  traversed  by  the  Ouadalantin,  an  Insigniflcant  stream  that 
joins  the  Sangonera  a  little  lower  down.  A  good  view  is  obtained 
from- the  Moorish  Castle,  in  the  midst  of  the  closely-built  old  town. 
Other  interesting  features  are  the  Espolon  Tower  and  the  Town  WallSy 
which  also  are  Moorish.  —  The  centre  of  the  life  of  the  new  town 
is  the  handsome  Plaza  Mayor  or  Plasa  de  la  Constitucidn,  with  the 
church  of  San  Patricio  and  the  Casa  Consistoridl.  The  church 
Santa  Maria  Real  de  las  Huerids  occupies  the  spot  where  the  In^ 


•298   BouU32.  BAZA.  From  Murda 

Alonso  ('el  Sabio*}  pitched  his  camp  before  his  capture  of  the  town 
(I2443.  The  arms  of  Lorca  show  a  bust  of  this  king  and  a  tower 
(Alfonsina),  with  the  inscription : 

Lorca  solam  gratum,  castrum  super  aatra  locatum, 
Enae  minas  gravia,  et  r^gni  tutissima  clavis. 

The  charming  environs  of  the  town  are  notable  for  their  fine 
trees.  The  neighbouring  hills  afford  views  extending  to  the  Medi- 
terranean and  the  harbour  of  Cartagena.  —  The  large  Pantceno  de 
Puentes,  to  the  S.  of  Lorca,  near  the  railway,  was  constructed  in 
1775-89.  In  1802  it  burst  its  dam  and  devastated  a  large  tract  of 
country,  but  it  has  been  restored  since  1886. 

To  the  left  rises  the  Sierra  del  Cano.  Near  (48  M.)  Lumbreras 
we  cross  the  narrow  ravine  of  the  NogatUy  which  was,  in  the  16th 
cent.,  the  scene  of  the  bloody  struggles  with- the  Moors  of  Granada, 
described  by  Lope  de  Vega  in  his  drama  *E1  Primer  Fajardo'. 

From  (51  M.)  EmpcUme  or  Almendricos  a  branch-railway  runs  in 
11/4  hr.  to  (191/2  M.)  Agvilai,  a  small 'seaport  (Brit,  vice-consul), 
whence  is  exported  the  mineral  output  of  the /Sierra  d«  Alnrntgrera.  — 
60  M.  Las  Norias,  —  The  train  intersects  the  Sierra  de  EnmediOy  a 
barren  and  thinly  peopled  district.  67  M.  Huercal-Overa^  a  town  of 
4800inhab.,  is  the  first  place  in  the  Andalusian  province  of  AlmerCa. 

The  train  now  threads  several  tunnels  and  runs  towards  the  W. 
into  the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Almanzora^  which  descends  from 
the  Sierra  de  Baza,  To  the  S.  the  valley  is  bounded  by  the  lofty  sum- 
mits of  the  Sierra  de  los  Filabres  (6820  ft.).  —  74  M.  Zurgena: 
82V2M.  Almanzora;  891/2  M.  Fines-Olula;  93  M.  Parehena,  with  a 
ruined  castle.  —  Beyond  (IO41/2M.)  Serdn  the  train  ascends  to  the 
N.W.  towards  the  ridge  of  the  Sierra  de  Baza,  the  boundary  between 
Almerfa  and  Orandda.  118  M.  Hijate.  We  then  descend  througli 
a  tunnel  and  over  several  ramblas.    121  M.  Cariiles. 

124  M.  Baza  (Fonda  Oranadina,  Plaza  de  Granada,  unpretend- 
ing), an  ancient  Iberian  settlement,  the  Roman  Baati  and  the  Moorish 
Basta^  was  captured  by  Isabella  of  Castile  in  1489  with  the  aid  of 
the  cannon  still  preserved  in  the  Alameda.  It  lies  on  the  slope  of 
a  hill,  in  the  midst  of  the  fruitful  Hoya  de  Baza^  and  still  retains 
its  Moorish  character.  Pop.  6600.  The  collegiate  church  of  San 
Maximoj  containing  the  relics  of  this  saint,  occupies  the  site  of  a 
Yisigothic  cathedral  built  by  King  Reccared  and  of  the  Moorish 
mosque.  In  the  centre  of  the  town  is  the  Alcazciba^  a  Moorish  castle. 
To  the  N.E.  rises  the  Javalcdn  (4715  ft.),  an  isolated,  bell-shaped 
Jurassic  hill,  commanding  a  good  view  of  the  basin  of  Baza. 

The  Basin  of  Baza  and  Guadix  is,  after  the  plain  of  the  Ebro  (p.  160), 
the  largest  ateppe  in  Spain  and  consists  of  tertiary  deposits  of  debris  from 
the  adjoining  hills.  The  ground,  which  is  strongly  impregnated  with 
salt,  is  deeply  furrowed  by  larger  and  smaller  water-courses  belonging  to 
the  basin  of  the  Ouadiana  Minor;  and  the  formations  due  to  the  action 
of  the  water  are  often  very  bizarre.  Two  oases  of  culture  are  found  in 
the  river-valleys  near  Baza  and  Guadix.  The  other  human  settlements 
are  practically  limited  to  a  few  cave-dwellings. 


to  Granada.  ALMErIa.  32.  RouU.   290 

The  continaation  of  the  railway  now  in  oonstniction  crosses  the 
Baml  and  the  Oor, 

eiutdiz,  the  Wddi-Ash  ('water  of  life')  of  the  Moors,  lies-4V2  M. 
to  the  N.W.  of  the  ancient  Iberian  town  of  Acei  (now  Ouadix  tl 
Viejo),  which  was  an  important  Roman  colony  and  the  see  of  a 
Yirigothic  bishop.  The  present,  semi-Moorish  town,  with  its  10,000 
inhab.,  lies  Ti/^M.  to  the  N.  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  in  the  midst  of 
a  fertile  Tega,  and  on  the  left  bank  of  the  (htadix,  an  affluent  of 
the  Fardes  (p.  300).  It  is  dominated  by  the  Moorish  Alca%6ba,  a 
fine  point  of  view.  The  Cathedral,  a  structure  of  the  18th  cent., 
stands  on  the  ruins  of  the  old  Moorish  mosque.  The  Bcerrio  dt 
Saniiago  is  interesting  for  its  curious  earthen  walls  and  cave 
dwellings  inhabited  by  gipsies.  —  About  6  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Gua- 
dix  lies  the  Ermita  de  Son  Torcuato^  on  the  spot  where  this  apostle 
of  the  Iberians  is  said  to  have  suffered  martyrdom. 

A  BnAMOH  Railway  ((>2M.,  in  4-6V3  brs.),  opened  in  1896,  runs  from 
anadix  to  the  8.E.  to  (36  M.)  AleubiUas  y  Qirgal  and  thence  through  the 
YaUey  of  the  APmeria  to  — 

62  M.  Almeria  (Hdt.  de  Tortosa;  Hdi,  dt  Londret;  Comercio;  Cuba^  La 
FamOf  LaPerla,  Oranadinay  boarding  houses ^  British  Vice-Consul,  Wm.  May 
Limdtay;  U.  S.  Cons.  Agent,  F.  C.  Sevang  Lloyd's  Agent,  Josi  0.  Canet),  one 
of  the  most  ancient  cities  of  Spain.  Founded  by  the  Phoenicians  and,  under 
the  name  of  Urci^  one  of  the  chief  Mediterranean  ports  of  the  Koman 
Empire,  it  was  so  important  under  the  Moors,  that  it  could  boast:  ^cuanclo 
Almerfa  era  Almeria,  Granada  era  su  alquerfa  (farm).  In  1147  Alfonso  VII. 
of  Castile,  with  the  aid  of  the  Genoese,  succeeded  in  capturing  the  town, 
but  his  tenure  of  it  was  fleeting:  and  it  was  not  earlier  than  1189  that 
Almeria  passed  finally  into  Christian  keeping  (comp.  p.  336).  Though  the 
capital  of  a  province  and  the  see  of  a  bishop,  it  was  until  quite  recently, 
owing  to  its  remoteness  from  any  railway-system,  a  quiet  and  unprogres- 
sive  plaee.  Thanks  to  the  new  railway,  the  town  and  neighbourhood  have 
awakened  from  their  lethargic  state,  and  improvements  are  rapidly  going 
on  on  every  side.  The  commodious  harbour,  with  a  basin  of  178  acres, 
is  one  of  the  btet  in  Spain.  The  export  trade  deals  chiefly  in  grapes  (of 
which  a  million  barrels,  of  55  lbs.  each,  can  be  shipped  in  normal  sea- 
sons), almonds,  oranges,  pomegranates,  prickly  pears,  and  other  fruits, 
esparto  fibre,  salt,  iron  ore  (of  which  enormous  quantities  are  now  being 
shipped),  and  other  minerals.  There  are  manufactories  of  sugar,  white- 
lead,  macaroni,  etc.  Pop.  about  60,(X)0.  —  The  harbour,  bounded  by  the 
CaMle  of  San  Telmo  on  the  W.  and  the  embouchure  of  the  dry  river  Almeria 
on  the  E.,  forms,  as  it  were,  an  inner  nook  of  the  large  Oolfo  dt  Almeria. 
The  latter,  surrounded  by  the  Sierra  de  Enix  (W.),  the  Sierra  de  lo$  Fi- 
labres  (0619  ft.  \  If.),  the  Sierra  AlhamiUa  (4735  ft.  ^  17.E.),  and  the  Sierra 
del  Cabo  de  Oata  (16^  ft. ;  S.E.),  opens  towards  the  S.  in  a  wide  semicircle. 
The  rich  Veffa  of  Almeria  is  clad  in  all  the  luxuriance  of  subtropical 
vegetation.  The  climate  is  delicious,  rivalling  that  of  Xice,  San  Remo, 
or  Algiers,  and  Almerfa  is  suited  for  a  winter-station.  The  mean  annual 
temperature  is  65.5**  F.,  permitting  the  date-palm,  the  banana,  and  the  . 
custard-apple  to  flourish.  —  The  town  ie  dominated  by  the  decayed  Ctutillo 
de  San  Orietdbal  and  by  the  old  Moorish  Alcatdha,  with  the  massive  Tor- 
re&n  de  Bomenaje  and  two  other  towers.  The  latter  was  enlarged  by 
Charles  V.  The  Gothic  Cathedral,  built  in  1524,  looks  like  a  fortress,  with 
its  massive  belfry-tower,  its  castle-like  apse,  and  its  embattled  walls.  The 
church  of  San  Fedro^  to  the  S.E.  of  the  town,  occupies  the  site  of  a  mosque. 
•~  Almeria  has  steamboat-communication  with  Malaga,  Cartagena,  AHcante^ 
and  other  Spanish  ports;  also  (twice  weekly)  with  Oran.  —  The  Almeria 
and  Guadix  railway  is  being  continued  towards  the  K.  to  Linares  (p.  ^ 

From  Guadix  to  Baeta,  see  p.  302. 


300  Route  33,  ARGAMASILLA.  From  Madrid 

The  railway  traverBes  some  cniiously  shaped  day^hills,  often 
100-130  ft.  high.  At  PuruUena,  a  village  consisting,  mainly  of  cave 
dwellings,  we  touch  the  valley  of  the  Fardea,  Die%ma  commands 
a  good  retrospect  of  the  hasin  of  Gnadix.  —  The  railway  crosses  the 
Sierra  de  Jarana,  the  watershed  between  the  Fardes  and  the  Genii 
(p.  334),  by  the  Puerto  de  lo8  Dieatea  de  la  Vieja;  and  then  descends 
to  the  S.E.,  into  the  picturesque  valley  of  the  Darro  (p.  833),  with 
its  precipitous  rocky  walls.  In  the  right  foreground  rises  the  Sierra 
Elvira.  —  The  stations  of  Huetor-SaniiUan  and  El  Farffue  both  lie 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  stream. 

180  M.  Oranddd,  see  p.  331. 

33.  From  Kadrid  to  Seville  vid  Alc&zar,  Cordova, 
and  Tocina. 

365  M.  Railway  (two  tbrotigli-trains  daily)  in  18V4-23  hrs. ;  f&res  65  p. 
95,  50 p.  70,  30 p.  96c.  (to  Cordova,  273  M.,  in  W/i-iiyi  hrs.;  fares  60  p. 
86,  39  p.  40,  24  p.  16  c.).  An  express  -  train  (tren  expre*)^  with  sleeping 
carriages  (extra  fare  20  p.  70  c.),  also  leaves  Madrid  on  Jfon.,  Wed.,  and 
Frid.  (returning  on  Tues.,  Thurs.,  and  Sat.)  for  Cordova  (12  hrs.)  and 
Seville  (15  hrs.).  The  mail  train  leaving  at  8.45  p.  m.  and  the  express 
have  no  third-class  carriages.  The  trains  for  Valencia,  Alicante,  and 
Cartagena  (RR.  26,  29,  31)  follow  this  line  as  far  as  Medzar.  —  The  trains 
start  at  the  Eitacidn  del  Mediodia  (p.  52).  There  are  railway-restaorants 
at  Madrid^  Aranjuez^  Alcdzar,  Cordova^  and  Seville.  —  Passengers  for 
Malaga,  Oranada,  and  AlgecirasOibi'altar  (RR.  37.  38,  40)  change  carriages 
at  Cordova;  those  for  M4Hda  and  Lisbon  (RR.  49,  48)  at  Tocina  (p.  305). 
The  train  is  divided  into  two  sections  at  Empalme  (p.  298),  the  carriages 
for  Cadiz  (R.  46)  running  round  the  E.  side  of  Seville  to  the  Estaddn  de 
Cadiz  (p.  387),  while  the  rest  of  the  train  goes  to  the  Estaddn  de  Cordoba 
(p.  387): 

From  Madrid  to  (92  M.)  Alcdzar  de  San  Juan,  se.e  R.  29.  —  The 
railway  now  traverses  La  Mancha  Baja^  an  interminable  and  dreary 
plain,  the  only  interest  of  which  lies  in  its  associations  with  Don 
Quixote.  There  are  cultivated  patches  here  and  there.  To  the  N.E. 
lies  the  Cnmpo  de  Criptana  (p.  277),  with  its  windmills.  We  cross 
the  Maranchdn  and  (hiadiana  Alto,  two  small  brooks.  The  high 
water-tower  to  the  left  is  used  for  supplying  the  railway-stations 
and  watering-tanks.  The  fields  are  strewn  with  heaps  of  stones 
and  clumps  of  evergreen  oaks.  A  few  vineyards  are  seeA  farther  on. 

108  M.  ArgamasiUa  de  Alba.  The  village  of  this  name  (Parador 
del  Carmen)  lies  about  7  M.  to  the  E.  and  may  be  reached  by  dili- 
gence. To  the  E.  and  W.  stretches  the  endless  horizon  of  La  Mancha, 
while  to  the  S.  appear  the  foot-hills  of  the  Sierra^Moreua  (p.  301). 

ArgamasiUa  is  generally  accepted  as  the  birthplace  and  home  of  the 
'Ingenioso  Hidalgo  de  la  Mancha%  surnamed  Don  Quixote  Cg^eaves^), 
though  Cervantes  purposely  left  the  place  uncertain  (comp.  p.  276).  Cer- 
vantes is  also  believed  to  have  written  some  of  the  early  chapters  of  his 
novel  here  when  imprisoned  in  the  Casa  de  Medrano.  It  is  not  improbable 
that  the  original  of  Don  Quixote  was  Don  Bodrigo  de  Pacheco,  of  whom 
there  ia  a  portrait  in  the  church  of  ArgamasiUa.  In  recognition  of  these 
(supposed)  facts  an  edition  of  ^Don  Quixote'  was  published  here  in  1864 
by  M.  Ribadaneira  of  Madrid. 


toSevUle.  VALDEPESfAS.  33.  RwUe,    301 

The  line  now  tiirns  to  the  S. W.  -^  122  M.  lUnitaarM  (1980  ft.), 
a  town  of  9400  inhab.,  on  the  Astief,  occupies  the  «ite  of  the  Caaa 
de  Mansanarei,  a  castle  erected  after  the  battle  of  Lai  Navas  de 
Tolo6aJ(p.  302).  To  the  left  Uea  the  C^rnipo  de  Montiel,  which  Don 
Qaixote  traveraed  in  search  of  adyentnies  (Part  I,  Book  i,  Chap.  2). 

Havy  points  mentioned  in  *Don  Qnixote'  lie  to  the  B.  of  the  section 
of  the  railway  between  Argamasilla  and  Manzanares.  Thus  the  Cave  of 
UonUsinos  (II,  ii,  0)  Ilea  about  6  H.  to  the  S.E.  of  the  hamlet  of  Buidera, 
a  little  to  the  K.  of  the  mined  castle  of  Soeafria.  It  was  probably  a 
Boman  copper-mine.  The  small  ZakM  o/  Ruidera  (II,  U,  5),  of  which  there 
are  abont  a  duzen«  lie  between  Buidera  and  Bocafria. 

Fkok  Hakzanarks  to  Ciddad  Bkal,  41  K.,  railway  (two  trains  daily) 
in  274  hrs.  (fares  7  p.  60,  6  p.  90,  3  p.  66  c).  —  The  line  descends  to  the 
W.  along  the  Azuel.  To  the  S.  risei  the  Sierra  Morena;  to  the  N.  lies 
Ufce  plain  of  the  QnadUma,  This  river  rises  in  the  ponds  of  Buidera  (see 
abore),  disappears  in  the  plain  of  ViUaeenteno^  and  re-appears  above  ground 
at  the  0Jo$  del  Ouadiana  (2090  ft.).  It  was  to  this  underground  portion  of 
the  Gnadiana  that  Buy  Gonzalez  Clavijo  referred  when  he  boasted  to 
Tamerlane  that  his  master,  King  Henry,  had  a  bridge  so  large  that  100,000 
sheep  grazed  upon  it.  Farther  to  the  K.  are  the  range  of  La  Catderina 
(8960  ft),  the  forests  of  which  have  been  entirely  destroyed  by  the  char- 
coal-burners, and  the  Aisrto  Lapiche^  mentioned  in  'Don  Quixote'.  The 
soil  is  artificially  irrigated  and  bears  many  vineyards  and  olives. 

iSVt  M.  Daimiel  is  a  town  of  11,400  inhab.,  with  the  Gothic  church 
of  SatUa  Maria,  It  lies  in  the  V.  part  of  the  Campc  d§  Calairava^  which 
formerly  belonged  to  the  Order  of  Galatrava,  the  first  knightly  order  in 
Spain,  founded  in  llfi6  to  fight  against  the  Moors.  The  order  was  suppressed 
by  the  'Catholic  Kings'  in  1495,  but  still  subsists  as  a  titular  dignity.  ~ 
The  train  turns  to  the  S.  To  the  left  is  the  ermita  of  Nwstra  JSOioia  de 
leu  mevee. 

2711.  AJmagro,  a  town  of  8400  inhab.,  founded  on  the  site  of  the 
Boman  Mariana  in  the  i2th  cent.,  had  its  original  Spanish  name  oi  Miiagro 
changed  to  Almilagro  by  the  Moors.  The  CatOe  of  the  Knights  of  Gala- 
trava is  now  a  barrack.  The  lace  of  Almagro  rivals  that  of  Catalonia. 
A  little  to  the  E.  are  the  Bol{Mo*  de  CakOraoa^  with  an  old  castle.  To 
the  8.W.  lie  the  BcSioe  de  Fuentanta. 

This  part  of  the  Campo  de  Galatrava  contains  many  extinct  Volcanoet 
(Cabexae)-,  which  rise  from  the  tertiary  formations  of  the  plain.  The  cra- 
ters are  still  distinguishable  in  the  Cabetoe  del  Falo^  del  Rey^  de  la  Plata^ 
and  del  Bierro,  all  of  which  show  large  masses  of  basaltic  lava.  The 
railway  traverses  the  plain  towards  the  W.  39  M.  Miguelturra,  —  41  M. 
Oiudad  Real,  see  p.  453. 

The  railway  crosses  the  Azuel  and  runs  to  the  S.  to  (139V2  M.) 
Valdepeftas  (2110  ft.),  a  town  with  16,400 inhab.,  celebrated  for 
its  wine  and  containing  many  large  bodegas. 

From  ValdepeSas  a  Bbanch  Railway  (27  M.,  in  2V4-3  hrs.)  runs  to  the 
W.,  down  the  valley  of  the  Jabal6»y  a  tributary  of  the  Ouadiana^  to  (11  M.) 
El  Morale  {iV/i  M.)  Montanehu4lo§,  and  (SOVs  M.)  Qrandtula  de  Galatrava^ 
which  lies  near  the  ancient  town  of  OreUtm.  The  railway  then  crosses 
the  Jabaldn,  near  an  old  Boman  bridge,  and  goes  on  to  (27  M.)  La  Oal- 
sada  de  Oalatarava,  which  has  two  old  castles  and  several  lace-fiietories. 

The  CJordova  railway  now  crosses  the  Jabal6n  (see  above),  on 
which,  about  3V2M.  to  the  S.W.,  lies  Torrenuevay  supposed  to  be 
the  spot  where  Don  Quixote  liberated  the  galley-slaves  (I.  iii.  8). 
It  then  ascends  gradually  past  (148V2  M.)  Santa  Cruz  de  Mudda, 
with  its  vineyards,  to  the  Sierra  Morena,  the  Mariam  Monies  of  th 
ancients.  The  mountains  make  no  great  show,  as  the  plateau  fr^ 


Z02   Route  S3.  ESPELUY.  From  Madrid 

which  they  rise  is  itself  !2500  ft.  above  the  sea-leyel.  The  scenery 
is  dreary.  i6^M.  Mmuradiel  (^20  ft.}  or  El  Visillo,  Through  gaps 
in  the  Sierra  Morena  we  catch  a  few  glimpses  of  the  Sierra  Nevada. 

The  train  now  descends  through  the  desolate  valley  of  the  Ta- 
mujar  to  the  huts  of  (165  M.)  Venta  de  Cdrdenca^  which  is  usually 
believed  to  bethe  scene  of  Don  Quixote's  penance  among  the  moun- 
tains (I.  iii.  11)  arid  may  have  suggested  the  name  of  Cardenio  to 
Cervantes.  —  Just  beyond  this  we  pass,  by  means  of  eight  tunnels, 
through  the  celebrated  Piterto  de  I>e8/>cnaj>«fro8  ('precipice  of  dogs'), 
a  gorge  with  lofty"  walls  of  slate.  The  finest  part  is  beyond  the 
fourth  tunnel,  and  the  retrospect  on  emerging  from  the  fifth  tunnel 
is  very  striking. 

Walkers  may  leave  the  train  at  Venta  de- Cardenas  and  follow  the 
old  road  on  the  W,  side  of  the  ralley,  passing  Odrredertu^  Santa  JSUna 
(see  below),  and  Lot  Jfavas  de  Tolota^  to  La  Cat'oUna.  All  these  places, 
and  also  Almuradiel  (see  above),  are  mainly  occupied  by  Sonth-German 
settlers,  planted  here  abont  1780  by  Count  Oktvidet,  the  favourite  of  Char- 
les III.  The  Teutonic  origin  of  these  people  is  still  easily  recognised, 
though  they  have  forgotten  their  native  tongue.  Las  Navas  de  Tolosa 
was  the  scene  of  the  momentous  battle  of  July  16lh,  1212,  in  which  ttae 
Christian  army,  consisting  of  Spanish  and  foreign  crusaders,  routed  th« 
Almohades  under  Mohammed  en-K&sir.  —  From  La  Carolina  we  may 
proceed  by  diligence  vi&  Ouarroman  to  BaiUn^  where  the  Spaniards  under 
(kutemoi  defeated  the  French  on  July  18th,  1806,  and  on  to  Menj'fbar 
(see  below).  Or  from  Guarroman  we  may  make  our  way  to  the  8.E.  to 
Lin<»re9  (see  below). 

174  M.  Santa  Elina^  the  first  place  in  the  Andalusian  province 
of  Jain,  The  train  descends  the  valley  of  the  Quartizas.  — 
184  M.  Vilches  (1540  ft."),  picturesquely  situated  between  two  hills. 
The  vegetation  now  assumes  a  southern  character.  We  cross  the 
Guarrizas.  — ^  190  M.  VadoUano, 

From  Vadollano  a  Bbanch  Railway  (6V2  M.,  in  1/2  br.)  runs  to. Linares 
CPonda  de  io$  Doe  Amigos;  Bidtel  C^vantes'^  Brit,  vice-consul;,  the  Roman 
Hellanee^  famous  in  antiquity  for  its  lead  and  copper  mines  and  now 
one  of  the  chief  mining  towns  of  Spain.  Pop.  26,70(>.  The  mines,  among 
which  may  be  mentioned  La  Fortilta^  Loe  Quinientoe,  El  Poeo  AnchOy  and 
Loe  Alamilloty  are  mainly  worked  by  English  companies.  In  the  Cerro  de 
Val  de  Infiemo,  5  M.  to  the  2T.  of  Linares,  are  some  ancient  mines  known 
as  Los  Pozos  de  Anibal.  —  A  branch-railway  (ISi/zM.,  in  V4  br.)  runs  from 
Linares  to  Eepeluy  (see  below). 

196  M.  Baeza  is  the  junction  of  a  branch-line  to  (12 V2  M.)  the 
town  of  Baeza  (13,000  inhab.),  the  aucient  Vivatia^  and  (171/2  M.) 
Vhida  (1970  ft.;  interesting  church,  p.  xliv)  both  pleasantly  sit- 
uated to  the  S.E.  in  the  Loma  de  Vbeda.  Their  names  often  occur 
in  the  history  of  the  Moorish  occupation.  From  Ubeda  this  line  is 
now  being  continued  via  (33 Vg  M.)  Quesada  to  Guadix  fp.  299), 

204  M.  Jabalqumto.  —  208  M.  Menjibar;  the  town  (815  ft.), 
containing  the  station,  of  the  railway  to  Jain  (R.  34),  lies  abput 
2  M.  off,  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  Guadalquivir  (Arabic  WHd-al-Kebir, 
♦he  *great  liver'),  which  the  train  now  crosses  by  abridge  640  ft.  long. 

*^.ll  M.  Espclnj,  the  junotion  of  the  branch-line  to  Ja^n.;  the 
'0  lies  on  the  Guadalquivir,  2V2  M.  to  the  N. 


to  SevUU.  AJOjOjAR.  33.  Route.   303 

Out  line  keeps  to  the  S.  of  the  Guadalquivir  all  the  way  to 
Villafranca  (see  below).  '217  M.  ViUanueva  de  la  Reina^  with  a  for- 
tress-like ehuTch. 

226  M.  AndAjar,  a  town  with  12,900  iiihab.,  lies  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Guadalquivir.  It  is  famous  for  its  pottery,  and  the  a{- 
earrdaa$  •r^orroa (Arabic  aZ-fcarrtts  or  djarra),  tbe  jars  used  through- 
out Spain  for  eooiing  water,  are  made  here. 

The  railway  runs  in  a  straight  line  along  the  winding  Guadal- 
quiTur,  threading  tunnels,  traversing  oliye-groves,  and  crossing  the. 
small  Salado  de  Arjona.  —  229  M.  ArjoniUa;  232  M.  MoftnoUjo 
(Hdt.  de  los  Leones;  Hot  de  Madrid),  with  a  frequented  mineral 
spring;  241  M.  Villa  del  Rio^  the  first  place  in  the  province  of  Cor- 
dova^ with  a  Moorish  Alcazar  converted  into  a  church.  —  247  M. 
Montoro^  the  ancient  Epora^  an  important  Moorish  fortress  and  now 
a  town  with  6100  inhabitants.  The  fine  bridge  over  the  Guadal- 
quivir dates  from  tbe  beginning  of  the  16th  century.  —  253  M. 
Pedro  Abad,  About  5  M.  to  the  S.E.  lies  the  town  of  Bujalance, 
with  a  dilapidated  Moorish  castle  with  seven  towers,  built  by 
'Abderrahman  III.  in  935.  —  256  M.  Carpio^  with  a  Moorish  tower 
of  1325|  stands  on  the  border  between  Upper  and  Lower  Andalusia. 
—  Beyond  (258  M.)  Villafranca  de  OSrdoha  the  train  crosses  the 
Guadalquivir  by  the  Puente  de  Alcolea,  a  flve-arched  bridge,  650  ft. 
long,  which  has  entered  more  than  once  Into  recent  Spanish  his- 
tory. —  267  M.  Las  VenUis  de  Alcolea.  The  highroad  crosses  the 
river  by  a  handsome  bridge  of  20  arches,  constructed  under  Char- 
les III.  To  the  W.,  in  the  distance,  is  seen  Almod6var  j  to  the  right, 
above  us,  are  Las  Ermitas  (p.  318). 

274  M.  C6rdova,  see  p.  307. 

Fbom  Cordova  to  Bklmsz  akd  Almobch(Sn,  81 M.,  railway  in  5'/4  hrs. 
(fares  14  p.  90,  11  p.  85,  8  p.  56  c).  The  trains  start  from  the  Estaddn  dt 
CereadWa  (p.  80T).  This  line  s-^rv^s  mainly  for  tbe  coal-traffic,  bnt  affords 
an  interesting  glimpee  of  the  slaty  formation  of  the  Sierra  Morena.  The 
railway  engineering  is  often  ren»arkable.  In  spring  the  richness  and 
variety  of  the  flora  are  astonishing.  —  The  train  sweeps  round  the  Con- 
vento  de  San  Jer6nimo  (p.  918)  and  approaches  the  Sierra  de  Cordoha 
(p.  906),  a  cultivated  hill-district,  with  olive-groves  and  attractive  farms. 
We  ascend  to  the  K.E.  in  sweeping  curves,  cross  the  Pedroche^  and  thread 
three  tunnels.  At  (8  M.)  Balanzona  we  have  a  fine  retrospect  of  Cordova 
and  Andalusia.  liVs  H.  Obejo.  —  To  the  right  of  (191/2  M.)  Vaear  (1895  ft.) 
are  the  ruins  of  the  Moorish  Castillo  de  Vacar.  The  railway  descends 
through  cuttings  and  tunnels  to  the  valley  of  the  Ouadiato^  which  flows 
from  the  plateau  of  Estremadura  across  the  Sierra  Morena  to  Posadas 
(p.  S04)  and  the  Guadalquivir.  —  27Vs  M.  AlhondiffwUa.  The  train  skirts 
the  bold  and  jagged  cliffs  on  the  right  bank.  —  33  M.  Espiet^  with  coal 
mines.  The  castle-hill  of  Belmee  comes  into  sight.  Numerous  coal-pits, 
with  their  smoking  chimneys,  are  seen  to  the  right,  especially  near 
(431/2  M.)  Cabeza  de  Vaca. 

45  M.  BelmM  (1600  ft.),  a  prosperous  town  with  5000inhab.,  lies  1/2  U. 
to  the  E.  of  the  railway,  at  the  foot  of  a  hill.  Its  castle  was  one  of  a 
long  chain  of  Moorish  fortresses,  other  members  of  which  were  at  Fuente 
Ovejunay  Sspiel^  NewOo,  Villavidoea,  and  Ahnoddttar  (p.  904).  —  The  ex- 
tensive coal-deposits  of  Belmes  and  Penarroya  (p.  904)  lie  so  close  to 
the  surface  that  they  are  worked  as  quarries  rather  than  as  mines.    The 


304   Route  33.  PENAFLOR. 

district  alflo  posaefses  mines  of  iron  and  copper.  —  64Vv  M.  Fdkirroifa  or 
Minn  la  TerHbk  is  a  characteristic  mining  town. 

At  we  proceed,  we  have  the  last  spnrs  of  the  Sierra  Morena  to  the 
left.  We  have  now  reached  the  sparsely-peopled  central  plateati,  where 
almost  the  only  signs  of  life  are  the  migratory  flocks  of  sb^ep  (see 
p.  444).  The  only  trees  are  cork-trees  and  evergreen  oaks  (p.  277).  To 
the  left  lies  the  village  of  Oranjuela^  the  low  red-roofed  cottages  of  which 
seem  hardly  to  rise  above  the  level  of  the  ground.  We  pass  f^m  the 
basin  of  the  Guadiato  to  that  of  the  Ziijar  and  the  Gua^ana. 

59  M.  ValetquUlo  (ca.  2070  ft.)  has  several  mines.  72  H.  Zdjar  is  the 
station  for  Sinojota  del  Ditque^  which  lies  abont  6  M.  to  the  S.E.  The 
•  train  crosses  the  Ztijar  by  an  iron  bridge^  To  the  W.  is  the  Sierra  del 
Fedroeo.  The  railway  reaches  MMda^  one  of  the  provinces  of  Estrema- 
dura.  --  The  last  part  of  the  journey  lies  through  the  hilly  district  of  the 
Sierra  de  Almorchdn.  —  84  M.  Almorehdn,  see  p.  454, 

The  Railway  to  Seville,  skirting  for  a  time  the  outliers  of  the 
Sierra  Morena,  follows  the  right  bank  of  the  Guadalquivir  as  far  as 
Lora  del  Rio.  The  district  traversed  is  sometimes  fertile  and  some- 
times barren ,  but  nowhere  imposing.  The  traveller  from  the  N. 
will,  however,  be  interested  in  the  southern  vegetation,  especially 
in  the  aloe-hedges,  with  their  tall,  pole-like  blossoms.  Beyond 
Cordova,  to  the  right,  above  us,  is  the  convent  of  San  Jer<Snimo 
(j?.  318).  The  domain  of  Cdrdoba  la  Vieja^  through  which  the  line 
passes ,  contains  several  enclosures  (ganaderCas)  for  breeding  bulls 
for  the  ring.  —  281  M.  Villarrubia.  —  288  M.  Almod6var  del  Rio 
has  a  fine  *  Moorish  Castle,  with  a  detached  tower  130  ft.  high.  This 
was  used  by  Pedro  the  Cruel  (p.  396)  as  a  treasure-house.  The 
village  lies  on  theE.  side  of  the  slaty  castle-hill.  —  The  train  crosses 
the  Guadiato  and  several  mountain-torrents.  293  M.  Posadas,  an 
agricultural  town  with  four  graceful  bell-towers.  The  dreary  district 
is  occasionally  beautified  by  an  orange-grove,  watered  by  a  spring 
rising  from  the  rocky  soil  of  the  Sierra  de  Guadalbayda.  We  cross 
the  Bembezar. 

300  M.  Homaehuelos,  The  train  crosses  the  Quadal  Canal,  To 
the  right  is  a  road  leadiiig  to  (26  M.)  Constantina,  a  small  town 
with  distilleries  of  brandy.  —  306  M.  Palma  del  Rio ,  in  a  fruitful 
district  at  the  confluence  of  the  Guadalquivir  with  the  Oenil  (p.  334). 
We  cross  the  Retortillo. 

309  M.  Penaflor ,  the  Roman  Ilissa ,  is  picturesquely  situated 
on  the  rapids  of  the  Guadalquivir,  which  drive  several  mills,  in- 
cluding one  of  Moorish  origin.  The  church  has  a  fine  tower.  — 
Extensive  groves  of  olives  are  traversed.  To  the  right,  above  the 
wooded  valley  of  the  GuadaloacoTy  are  seen  the  ruins  of  the  castle 
of  Sete  FillaSj  with  a  pilgrimage-ohurch.  —  320  M*  Lora  dH  Rio. 
Beyond  the  station,  to  the  right,  is  a  pretty  little  church  with  a 
belfry.  Grain-fields,  olive-trees,  and  orange-groves  succeed  each 
other.  The  train  crosses  the  Guadalquivir  by  an  eight-arched 
bridge,  840  ft.  long. 

330  M.  Quadajoz,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Corbones  (p.  422) 
'th  the  GuadalquiYir ,  Is  the  junction  of  a  branch-line  to  (9  M.) 

mono  (p.  422). 


JA^N.  34,  Boule.   305 

333  M.  Toeina  Is  the  junction  of  the  railway  to  MMda  (R.  49). 
To  the  S.£.  rises  the  hill  on  which  Garmona  lies. 

Onr  line  runs  at  some  distance  from  the  Guadalquivir,  but  the 
high,  reddish-coloured  river-banks  are  often  visible  to  the  right.  — 
342  M.  Brenes.  In  the  distance  lies  Seville,  its  cathedral  rising 
over  the  other  buildings,  as  Gautier  has  expressed  it,  ^comme  un 
elephant  debout  an  milieu  d'un  troupeau  de  moutons  couches'. 

At  (352  M.)  Empalme  the  train  is  broken  up  into  two  sections, 
the  through-carriages  for  Cadiz  running  to  the  left  to  the  Estaci6n 
de  Cadiz  (comp.  p.  387),  while  the  main  line  follows  the  Guadal- 
quivir to  the  E8iaci6n  de  C6rdoba  of  (356  M.)  SevUU  (p.  387). 

34.  From  Espelny  to  Jain  and  Pnente  Genii. 

98  «.  Railway  (two  thTotigli-tTains  daily)  In  SVa-^V*  hrs.  (fares  18 
p.  25.  Up.  20.  8 p.  76 e.).    Tbe  only  railway-restaurant  is  at  Pttente  Oenil. 

—  This  linoi  fonniDg  the  connecting  link  between  the  railway  from  Madrid 
to  CJordova  (R.  33)  and  the  railways  of  S.  Andalusia,  is  interesting  only 
on  account  of  Jain^  which  well  repays  a  short  visit.  Host  travellers  will 
prefer  the  railway  from  Ja6n  to  €h'anada  vii  Cordova  and  Bobadilla  (RR. 
30,  38)  to  the  tiring  diligence  journey  from  Ja^n  (9  hrs.). 

Espeluy,  see  p.  302.  —  Our  line  diverges  to  the  S.  (left)  from 
that  to  Seville,  crosses  the  Guadalquivir  beyond  (38/4  M.)  Menjibar 
(p.  302),  and  then  ascends  the  valley  of  its  tributary,  the  OuadcU- 
bulUSn,  —  91/2  M.  Villargordo.  To  the  left  lie  the  small  towns  of 
La$  Infantaiy  Cadhna^  and  Torrequ^radiUa, 

2OV2M.  Jain  (1800 ft.;  Fonda  Madrilena;  Fonda  Francesa), 
the  Auringia  of  the  Romans,  o-Uoe  capital  of  the  petty  Moorish  king- 
dom of  Djaiyan  and  occupied  by  St  Ferdinand  in  1246,  is  now  the 
capital  of  a  province  and  has  been  the  see  of  a  bishop  stnoe  1248. 
Pop.  21,400.  It  is  picturesquely  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Jabalcuz 
and  La  Pondera^  the  slopes  of  which  are  covered  with  luxuriant 
vegetation.  The  chief  crop  of  the  Campina,  which  is  watered  by  the 
Jnen  and  the  GnadalbuUon,  is  the  garbanzo  or  chick-pea  (p.  6). 

—  The  Moorish  walls  of  the  city,  made  of  'tapia'  (p.  xxxviii),  have 
been  almost  entirely  broken  up,  and  the  Puerta  de  Barreras  is  the 
only  gate  of  interest.  Most  of  the  streets  are  steep;  the  houses  have 
patios  like  those  of  Seville  (p.  394). 

The  'Cathbdeax  ot  the  Assumption,  situated  in  the  Plaza  d0 
la  Constitucion ,  on  the  highest  part  of  the  town ,  is  an  imposing 
sandstone  building,  begun  by  Pedro  de  Valdelvira  in  1632  on  the 
site  of  a  Gothic  church ,  which  was  itself  the  successor  of  an  Arab 
mosque.  It  was  not  finished  till  the  end  of  the  18th  cent.,  but  in 
its  main  features  It  is,  like  the  cathedrals  of  Granada  and  Malaga, 
a  good  example  of  the  early-Renaissance  style  in  Spain.  The  inter- 
esting W.  facade  has  three  entrances ,  surmounted  by  reliefs  and 
flanked  by  towers  200  ft.  high.  The  balustrade  is  adorned  with 
statues  of  St.  Ferdinand,  the  Evangelists,  and  the  four  Latin 
Church  Fathers. 

Babdsksb*8  Spain.  20 


30C   Route  34.  MARTOS. 

The  Zntesior  forms  a  recUngle  220  ft.  long  and  140  ft  wide,  and  pro- 
duces an  effect  of  space  and  light.  —  The  Capilla  Mayo}%  approached  by 
a  flight  of  marble  steps,  contains  a  handsome  retablo.  The  «illeria  of  the 
Choir  is  finely  carved.  The  Tratcoro  is  adorned  witii  a  Holy  Family  by 
Mariano  Salvador  Maella^  with  statues  of  SS.  Catharine,  John,  and  Lucia, 
and  with  a  group  of  the  Conception.  In  the  3rd  side-chapel  to  the  left 
is  a  St.  Jerome  by  Jote  AtUoUnet;  in  the  last  chapel  to  the  right  is  a 
Conception  by  JS^HuHdn  Martinet.  The  chamber  below  the  K.  tower  con- 
tains an  old  but  repainted  picture  of  the  Virgin,  which  Bi^op  Qoasalo  de 
ZiMiga  used  as  a  standard  in  his  campaigns  against  the  Uoors.  A  shrine 
beside  the  high-altar  preserves  the  Santo  Rostro  or  Santa  Faz^  one  of  the 
napkins  of  St.  Vercmioa,  bearing  an  impression  of  the  Saviour's  face.  This 
is  shown  to  the  public  on  Good  Friday  and  Assumption  Day.  —  The  Saoristia, 
the  Sala  Capittdar^  and  the  Sagrario  are  all  handsome.  The  silver  custodia 
by  Juan  Ruiz  and  the  statue  of  St.  Enphrasius  deserve  notice. 

The  most  interesting  of  the'  other  churches  are  the  Gothic  San 
Julian,  the  remains  of  8an  ABgvd  (portal  by  YalJelvira),  and 
Nueaira  Senora  de  la  LuZy  containing  a  painting  by  Albrecht  Durer  (?). 

The  Casas  Capitulates  (municipal  buildings)  and  the  Palacio 
Episcopal  stand  opposite  the  cathedral.  Both,  like  the  new  Palacio 
de  la  Diputacidn  Provincialy  are  devoid  of  interest. 

Noteworthy  private  buildings  are  the  Gothic  palace  of  the  Conde 
del  Villar  del  Pardo^  with  a  rich  portal  in  the  patio ;  the  Casa  de  loa 
Masones,  in  the  Plaza  de  San  Francisco;  the  house  oiOti9t6bal  de 
Vilchesy  in  the  Paseo  del  Mercado ;  that  of  Bishop  Sudrez  de  la  Fuente 
del  S&uce,  with  its  fine  Renaissance  facade ;  and  that  of  Capitun 
Fernando  Quesada  VUoa. 

The  Alameda  commands  a  beautifui  Tiew.  —  The  Moorish  Castle, 
above  the  town,  formerly  the  guardian  of  the  road  to  Granada,  is 
now  a  heap  of  ruins.  —  Delightful  walks  may  be  taken  to  the 
Fuente  de  la  MagdaUna  and  to  the  Sulphur  Baths  of  Jahaleuz^  2  M. 
to  the  S.W. 

The  DiLioENCB  TO  Granada  at  first  ascenrds  to  the  S.E.  through  the 
fertile  valley  of  the  GuadalbuUon,  and  then  runs  to  the  S.  through  a 
picturesque  but  solitary  district,  with  few'signs  of  life  except  the  roadside 
ventas.  —  7  M.  Ventorillo  de  la  Ouardia.  Farther  on  are  the  Ventas  del  Chaval, 
de  las  Paiomas,  and  del  Romeral.  —  Before  reaching  the  low-lying  (22V2  M.) 
CampUlo  de  Arenas  the  road  passes  through  the  Puerta  de  Arenoi,  a  tunnel 
108  ft.  long.  It  then  surmounts  the  Sierra  de  Zucena  and  the  Puerto  Car- 
retero  and  enters  the  province  of  Cfranada.  Beyond  the  (35  M.)  VeiUa  del 
Zegri  we  cross  the  Sierra  del  Afiuar^  obtaining  a  grand  *View  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada.  —  At  the  Venta  de  las  Ifavas  we  cross  the  CubiUas  by  a  bold 
arched  bridge.  A  little  later  we  traverse  the  Sierra  de  Elvira  (2935  ft.), 
a  Jurassic  range  of  hills  named  after  the  town  of  Elvira,  which  was  de- 
stroyed in  the  days  of  the  Moors.  On  crossing  the  little  Beiro,  we  reach 
the  Vega  of  Granada.  Farther  on  we  pass  the  Cartuja  (p.  345),  cross  the 
Campo  de  Triunfo  (p.  345),  and  reach  the  Puerta  de  Elvira,  the  N.  gate 
of  (49  M.)  Granada  (p.  331). 

The  Railway  to  Puente  Genil  runs  to  the  W.,  oyer  the  fertile 
campifia  of  Ja^n,  crosses  the  Barranco  de  RegordlUa,  and  skirts  the 
slopes  of  the  Sierra  de  Jaen,  29  M.  Torre  del  Campo ;  31  M.  Torte- 
donjimeno  (8900  inhab.).   It  then  turns  to  the  S.W. 

36  M.  HartOB,  an  impoverished  town  with  13,000  inhab.,  once 
the  seat  of  a  bishop,  lies  on  a  hill  above  the  river  Grande,  —  To 


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CORDOVA,  35,  Routt.    307 

the  right,  as  we  proceed,  rises  the  precipitoas  Penon  de  Iob  Carvor- 
Jalea,  from  which,  according  to  tradition,  the  two  brothers  Oarvajal, 
anjustiy  cooTicted  of  murder,  were  thrown  by  order  of  Ferdinand  IV. 
of  Castile  in  1312.  Before  their  death  the  brothers  summoned  the 
king  to  meet  them  at  the  judgment  seat  of  God,  and  thus  Ferdi- 
nand, who  died  a  month  later,  received  the  surname  of  £1  Empla- 
zado  ('the  summoned'). 

Beyond  (46  M.)  Vado-Jain  the  train  crosses  the  Sierra  Orande 
and  then  descends  to  (51  M.)  Alcaudete,  Thence  it  runs  to  the  N.W., 
through  a  hilly  district  watered  by  the  Ouadajoz.  62  M.  Luque-Baena, 
the  station  for  the  village  of  Luque,  which  lies  to  the  left  in  the 
Sierra  de  Luque,  and  for  (right)  Baena,  a  town  with  11,000  inhab. 
in  the  province  of  Cordova,  —  68  M.  Dona  Mtneia.  —  76  M.  Oahra, 
the  Algabro  of  the  ancients,  is  a  town  of  11,100  inhab.,  prettily 
situated  on  the  S.£.  spurs  of  the  Sierra  de  MontiUa  and  on  the  N. 
slope  of  the  Sierra  de  Cobra,  The  latter  range  extends  to  the  £.  to  La 
Cima  de  Cobra,  a  summit  mentioned  by  Cervantes  in  'Don  Quixote'. 

The  railway  now  enters  the  basin  of  the  Genii  (p.  334) ,  crosses 
the  river  Cobra  and  the  Sierra  de  Cabra,  and  reaches  (82  M.)  Lu* 
o«na,  a  pleasant-looking  town  of  18,200  iohab.,  where  Boabdil  was 
defeated  and  taken  prisoner  in  1483  (see  p.  335).  The  making  of 
lamps  is  the  most  important  of  its  varied  industries.  —  88  M.  Zapa- 
teros  y  05  M.  Campo  Real. 

98  M.  Fuente  QenU,  see  p.  319. 


35.  Cordova. 

BaUway  SUtions.  1.  EgtoHdn  d«  MudHd,  SeviUa,  y  Maloffa  (PI.  B,  C,  1-, 
*SesUuraHt,  dej.  3 p.>t  for  all  the  Aadalnsiaa  trains;  3.  E$iaet6»  4e  Cer- 
eaditta  (PI.  A,  2),  for  the  railway  to  B^lmez  and  Almorch6n  (p.  903).  Both 
stations  lie  to  the  X.E.  of  the  town.  Omnibus  General  (p.  xvi)  to  the  hotels 
50  c.;  each  trunk  under  66  lbs.  50  c.;  under  110  lbs.  ip.  (bargain  advisable). 

Hot«U  (bargaining  necessary;  eomp.  p.  xx).  *Fonda  Suiza  (PI.  a;  G,2), 
kept  by  a  Swiss  (FueUii)^  in  the  narrow  Calle  del  Paraiso,  first-class,  pens, 
from  10 p.)  on  the  capital  of  one  of  the  pillars  in  the  beautifdl  patio  is 
an  Arabic  inscription.  —  ^Udr.  be  Oeisntk  (PI.  b;  G,2),  with  electric  light, 
pens.  9-10,  d^j.  SVsP-;  *Fohda  EspaSTola  (PI.  c;  G,2),  pens.7-8p.,  these  two 
in  the  Paseo  del  Gran  (3apitan  and  unpretending.  —  Casas  db  HtJKSPSDBS, 
or  boarding-houses:  CueUro  Nadonu,  Calle  San  Pablo  33;  Francisco  Simon^ 
GaUe  de  Gondomar  7. 

Oafaa  (comp.  p.  xxii).  *Cfffi  de  Colon,  G.  del  Qran  Capiian,  G.  iVtisoo, 
all  three  in  the  Paseo  del  Gran  Capitan;  *Ct^4-BmC€ntrant  j9e(M0,  Calle  Am- 
brosio  de  Itorales  (kept  by  PudnL,  see  above).  —  Qonfiieria  BuisOj  oppo- 
site the  last-mentioned  caf^.  ~  MontiUa  Wine  (p.  319),  a  kind  of  sherry,  is 
celebrated  for  its  bouquet. 

Post  and  Telafxapb  0£Ba6  (PI.  D,  3),  Plazuela  de  Seneca. 

BooksttUan:  Librtria  del  Dietrio  de  Cdrdoba,  Calle  de  la  Libreri*.  — 
Photographs:   Tomdt  MoHna,  Calle  del  Conde  Gondomar  1. 

Bankets:  Pedro  Lopez  i  ftijos;  Banco  de  EspaSki  (Snccursal);  Amador, 
Purrieh  V  Vifia*. 

Shops.  The  silver^flligree  work  of  Cordova  has  been  famovs  ever  since 
jthe  days  of  the  Uoors.  ^Cordovan*  and  ^Morocco*  leather  are  now,  however, 
better  obtained  in  Tangier  (p.  381). 

20* 


308    Route  35.  CORDOVA.  History. 

Oabt.  Tariff  within  the  town.  With  oae  horse,  per  drive.  1-2  per?. 
1,  3-4  pcrs.  1V»  p.,  after  midnight  2  and  SVa  p.  \  per  hr.  II  2V2,  3,  and  4  p. 
With  two  horses,  1-4  pers.,  2,  4,  3,  6  p.  Trunk  under  66  lbs.  50c.,  under 
110  Iba.  Ip.,  small  baggage  free.    Prices  are  raised  during  the  Feria. 

ThMkjtra.  Cfrcm  Teatro  (PI.  0,2),  Pasco  del  Gran  Gapitati.  —  Fkua  de 
T^ros  (Pi.  B,  C,  2),  to  the  N.£.  of  the  Paseo  del  Orap  Capitaa.  ^Corridas' 
are  given  during  the  Feria^  the  great  fair  held  twice  yearly  (May  25-27th 
and  Sept.  26-27th)  in  the  Campo  de  la  Victoria. 

British  Vioe-Oonsul,  RicJuird  Ethott  Gear. 

Principal  Attractions  (one  day).  Cathedral  (p.  309)  •,  Bridge  of  Calch 
horra  (p.  317);  Pateo  dd  Cfran  Capitim  (p.  300)-,  P<mo  de  la  Victoria  (p.  309). 

C(}rdova,  casa  de  guerrera  gente 
Y  de  sabiduria  clara  fuente. 

(Motto  of  Cordova). 

C6rdova  (390  ft.),  Span.  Cdrdoba^  the  capital  of  a  province  and 
a  "bishop's  see,  is  a  city  of  60,000  inhab.,  lying  at  the  base  of  the 
Sierra  de  C6rdoba,  a  spur  of  the  Sierra  Morena,  on  a  plain  sloping 
gently  to  the  Guadalquivir.  The  traveller  whose  expectation  is  on 
tiptoe  as  he  enters  the  ancient  capital  of  the  Moors  will  probably 
be  disappointed  in  all  but  the  cathedral,  the  former  mosque,  which 
is  still,  in  spite  of  all  defacement,  the  most  Imposing  monument 
of  its  time.  With  the  exception  of  a  few  Moorish  doors  and  Arabic 
inscriptions,  the  Christian  Spaniard  has  either  marred  or  destroyed 
all  else  that  would  recall  the  Mecca  of  the  West,  the  once  celebrated 
nursery  of  science  and  art.  The  city  now  presents  a  mournful  pic- 
ture of  departed  greatness ;  it  is,  as  Hi^ophile  Oautier  expresses  it, 
nothing  but  *le  squelette  blanch^  et  calcintf'  of  its  former  self.  The 
streets  are  rough  and  narrow,  the  plazas  are  small,  the  houses  are  low 
and  whitewashed ,  the  city- walls  are  in  ruins,  the  'solares'  of  the 
once  powerful  noblesse  are  vacant.  The  view  of  th«  Sierra  to  the 
N.  and  of  the  ^Great  River'  to  the  S.  is,  however,  a  possession  that 
time  cannot  destroy,  and  the  patios,  with  their  flowers  and  orange 
trees,  are  often  attractive. 

In  his  poem  on  the  Second  Punic  War  Silius  Italicus  writes:  *nec  decus 
auriferee  cessavit  Cordtiba  terris.*  It  was  a  place  of  considerable  wealth 
and  commerce,  and  the  so-called  ttes  Cordvbeme^  a  kind  of  amalgam,  was 
widely  known.  In  B.  0.  152  Cordova  was  captured,  by  M.  MarotMut,  who 
settled  it  with  Roman  colonists,  and  under  the  name  of  Coloma  Patricia 
made  it  the  capital  of  Hitpania  Ulterior.  In  consequence  of  its  espousal  of 
the  cause  of  Pompey,  it  was  occupied  by  Gsesar's  lieutenant  Marodlit$  after 
the  battle  of  Hunda  (p.  321)  and  sharply  disciplined.  It  soon  recovered, 
and  in  the  imperial  epoch  alternated  with  Cartagena  (p.  290)  afl  the  capital 
of  thA-  province  of  Bsetica.  Under  Vespasian  it  became  the  seat  of  the 
provincial  legislature.  Leovigild  took  the  town  in  571  from  the  Byzantines 
and  made  it  an  episcopal  see.  On  the  overthrow  of  the  Yisigothic  kingdom, 
Cordova  fell  a  prey  to  Mugtth  ar-Rumi,  who  was  assisted  by  the  many  Jewish 
residents.  It  was  at  first  subject  to  the  caliphate  of  Damascus,  but  became 
independent  in  756  under  the  Emir  ^Ahderrahmdn  /.,  of  the  house  of  the 
Omayyadee.  'Abderrahmdn  HI.  (912-961)  raised  it  to  the  dignity  of  capital 
of  the  caliphate  of  Cordova  and  metropolis  of  Moorish  Spain.  In  this  coign 
of  vantage  it  quickly  became  one  of  the  wealthiest  cities  of  Europe  and  a 
centre  of  culture  frequented  by  all  the  students  of  the  Orient.  The  decay  of 
the  city  began  in  1010,  when  it  was  sacked  by  the  followers  of  ifbAamnMd  //. 
and  the  troops  of  SuMmdn.    The  dynasty    of  the  Omayyades  was  over-^ 


PLANTA  DE  LA    MEZQUITA  AUAMA 
DE  CORDOBA. 


1 1  t  r-^  t  *  { !  t  ? !  ?  *  t ! 

_:    frinrriLiva-Mfziultj.  j    '.    I    I    l^l  '. 

jnuoOB  •  rundacUa  opo»r  •    •    ■    «    •    •    •"•  'ipu 

iEMhi^ o       •      .       I      •       .       .      .  <D  •  •Hi 

•     •     • In    J     •     • •>•     •  ^     *-. 

=  i  I  B  ♦   T- —J-  2  =t1t:^:  :  - 

IPrinfarSpiraciicoro      g     ^^^^^J     Jt^-  :    1 


Qnnrtlgote 
SJfifual 


Cathedral.  CORDOVA.  35.  Routt.   309 

fhrown  in  1061.  Cordova  declared  itself  a  republic  under  the  guidance  of 
members  of  tbe  DJahwar  Family^  but  became  subject  to  ScTille  in  1078. 
In  1091  began  the  lordship  of  the  Ahnortmide*^  who  had  been  summoned 
from  Africa  to  aid  in  resisting  the  Christians,  and  these  were  overthrown 
in  1118  by  tbe  AJmohadMS^  another  Berber  sect  led  hjJAhdelmCmin.  A  period 
was  put  to  the  Moorish  rule  in  Cordova  on  June  29th,  1236,  when  St.  Fer- 
dinand captured  the  city.  The  banished  Moors  took  refuge  in  Granada 
(seep. 886)  and  were  replaced  by  Christian  settlers,  under  whom  the  town 
persistently  declined.  The  magni&cent  buildings,  the  marvels  of  which 
are  celebrated  by  Arabic  writers  with  Oriental  hyperbole,  fell  into  ruins ; 
the  irrigation-works  were  neglected,  and  the  once  exuberantly  fertile  cam> 
pi2a  beeame  a  barren  steppe. 

Among  the  many  distinguished  natives  of  Cordova  may  be  mentioned 
Seneca^  the  Roman  philosopher;  Lucan^  the  Stoic  and  author  of  the  *Phar- 
salia*;  Averro9$,  the  famous  translator  and  expounder  of  Aristotle,  cele- 
brated by  Dante  in  his  ^Inferno'  (Canto  iv  \  ^Averroi's  che  il  gran  oomento 
feo*)  t  AUha^  the  poetess  v  the  Rabbi  Mose$  Maltnonida  (1139) ;  Juan  de  Uena 
(ea.  1411-66),  author  of  *E1  Laberinto",  an  allegorical  poem  in  which  Cordova 
is  called  ^la  /lor  de  saber  y  de  eabaUnHa" ;  the  authors  Lorentc  de  SepOheda 
(d.  1074)  and  Ltrie  de  Gonffora  (16ei-1627)(  and  the  painters  Ptiblo  de  C4epede$ 
(1638-1606)  and  Juan  de  Valdde  Leal  (1630-91).  The  'Gran  Capitan'  Gonsalvo, 
though  born  at  Montilla  (p.  819),  is  also  closely  connected  with  Cordova, 
where  he  was  baptized. 

From  the  Main  Bailway  Station  (PI.  B,  0,  1)  the  new  Paseo  de 
la  Victoria  (PI.  B,  1-3),  affording  a  fine  view  of  the  Sierra  Morena, 
leads  to  the  S.  to  the  Puerta  de  Almoddvar  (PI.  B,  3),  a  relic  of  the 
lately  destroyed  Moorish  wall.  —  The  Ronda  de  los  Tejaree  (PI.  B, 
0,  2),  diverging  to  the  left  from  this  paseo,  about  1/4  M.  from  the 
station,  leads  past  the  Plaza  de  Toros  (p.  308)  to  the  *Psseo  del 
OrsxL  Capitan  (PI.  0,  2),  a  frequented  promenade,  planted  with 
palms  and  orange-trees.  On  its  E.  side  are  the  hotels  and  caf^s 
mentioned  at  p.  307.^  On  its  W.  side  stands  the  Golboiata  db  SA^ 
Hip6lito,  built  by  Alfonso  XT.  after  the  battle  of  the  Salado  (1340) 
and  modernized  in  1729.  It  contains  an  Ecce  Homo  by  VtUdes  Leal, 
the  tomb  of  the  historian  Amhrosio  de  Morales  (1613-91),  and 
those  of  Ferdinand  IV.  and  Alfonso  X/.,  transferred  hither  from 
the  Capilla  Real  of  the  cathedral  (p.  316).  Adjacent  is  the  Oran 
Teatro.  A  little  farther  to  the  S.  is  the  church  of  San  Nicolds  de  la 
Villa,  with  a  handsome  octagonal  and  embattled  tower. 

We  now  proceed  to  the  E.  along  the  Calle  del  Conde  Gondo- 
raar,  at  the  end  of  which,  near  the  H6tel  Suizo,  we  turn  to  the 
right  into  the  Calle  de  Jesus  Maria  (PI.  0,  2,  3).  By  following  the 
line  of  streets  continuing  this  towards  theS.,  we  soon  reach  the 
cathedral.  In  the  Calle  C^spedes  (PI.  C,  3)  are  some  remains  of 
Moorii^  Baths. 

The  **Cath6dral  (PI.  C,  3,  4 ;  closed  1-2  p.m.),  formerly  the 
Mesdjid  ot-Djdmf  a  (^ehief  mosque')  of  the  Moors,  is  the  largest  and 
moflt  noble  monument  of  the  religious  architecture  of  the  Arabs 
of  Spain ,  and  second  in  size  to  the  Kaaba  of  Mecca  alone  among 
all  the  mosques  of  Islam.  It  is  due,  both  in  conception  and  execu- 
tion, to  the  dynasty  of  the  Omayyades.  When  the  Moors  captured 
CordoTa  they  found  this  site,  close  to  the  N.  bank  of  the  Guadal- 


3 1 0^  Route  35,  CORDOVA.  CaihedraL 

quivir,  occupied  by  the  ViBigothic  Church  of  8t.  Vincent.  Accord- 
ing to  some  writeis,  it  was  this  spot  that  was  lortifled  by  the 
400  Christians,  who  offered  the  Moors  an  obstinate  resistauoe 
for  three  months  after  the  rest  of  the  city  had  been  taken ;  and 
their  final  death  by  fire  gare  the  church  its  surname  *of  the 
captives'  or  *of  the  burned'.  It  is  more  likely,  however,  that  the 
scene  ^of  this  last  despairing  effort  of  the  Visigoths  in  Andalusia 
was  the  church  of  San  Aoisclo,  to  the  N.W.  of  the  city,  near  the 
Sierra  de  Cordoba. 

One  of  the  conditions  of  the  surrender  of  the  city  was  that  the 
Christians  (Arab.  Adjemi,  strangers)  should  be  allowed  to  retain  the 
exclusive  use  of  their  churches.  The  Moors,  however,  took  pos- 
session of  half  the  church  of  San  Vincente;  and  ^Abderrahmdn  I., 
founder  of  the  Omayyad  dynasty,  purchased  the  other  half  from  the 
Christians  in  785,  in  order  to  make  room  for  ihe  erection  of  a 
Mohammedan  temple,  which  should  be  the  religious  centre  of  the 
Faithful  in  Spain  and  divert  the  stream  of  pilgrims  from  Mecca  to 
Cordova.  Up  to  that  period  there  had  been  no  specifically  Arabian 
style  of  architecture.  The  Arabs  had  hitherto  practically  followed 
the  models  of  Home  and  still  more  of  Byzantium,  though  in  the 
shapes  of  the  arches  and  domes  and  in  certain  other  elements  there 
were  already  manifest  the  first  traces  of  the  characteristic  Moorish 
fanoy  and  the  embodiment  of  tbe  spirit  of  Islam,  which  were  to 
reach  their  glorious  apogee  in  the  third  mihr^  of  the  Mosque  of 
Cordova  and  in  the  arabesques  and  vaulting  of  the  Alhambra. 

The  'Zeca't  or  ^House  of  Purification'  of  *Abd^rahman,  which 
was  constructed  mainly  of  the  columns  and"lother  materials  of  the 
Christian  church,  occupied  only  about  the  fifth  part  of  the  present 
building.  It  contained  10  rows  of  columns,  dividing  it  longitudin- 
ally into  eleven,  and  transversely  into  (probably)  twelve  aisles  or 
alleys.  The  central  aisle  was  a  little  wider  than  the  others,  and  a 
short  prolongation  of  it,  projecting  beyond  the  enclosing  wall, 
formed  the  Mihrdb  or  prayer-recess. 

This  building,  which  was  adjoined  on  the  N.  by  a  Court  of 
Ablutions  (Arab.  Haram,  sacred  enclosure ;  Span.  Path  de  las  Ab- 
luciones),  was  nearly  complete  at  the  death  of  'Abderrahman  (788). 
His  successor  Hisham  J.  erected  the  tower  (al-mindr  or  es-sauma^a^ 
here  generally  named  ul-kcLdima,  or  the  ancient)  for  the  Muezzin 
(crier  of  prayers);  he  also  furnished  a  place  of  prayer  for  women 
{jU'iokifa^  an  'open  gallery')  and  placed  a  fountain  (al-mtdd)  in 
the  middle  of  the  court. 

The  mosque  of  ^Abderrahman  I.,  however,  soon  became  inade- 
quate for  the  population  of  Cordova,  which  was  steadily  increased 
by  accessions  from  Syria,  Arabia,  and  Africa.    ^Abderrahmdn  IL, 

t  Thi0  name  gave  rife  to  a  Spanish  ptoverb,  quoted  by  Cervantes 
(Don  Quixote,  I.  iii.  4):  andar  de  Ceca  en  Mtcca^  to  saunter  idly  from  one 
place  to  another. 


Cathedral.  CORDOVA.  35.  Route.    311 

therefore,  undextook  an  expansion  of  the  Zeca  towards  the  S.,  by 
adding  seven  aisles  to  the  orig;inal  ten  rows  and  making  a  new 
mihrlb.  The  mosque  as  thus  enlarged  extended  to  the  present 
Capilla  de  Nuestra  Sefiora  de  YillaTioiosa  (p.  315)  and  contained 
80  eoluniDS  more  than  the  old  one.  It  was  building  from  833  to 
the  month  of  Djum&da  in  848. 

The  snoceeding  ruler,  Abu  'AbduUah  Mohammed  /.,  restored  the 
original  building  and  began  the  decoration  of  gates  and  walls.  He 
also  built  the  MakeHra ,  or  railed  platform  reseryed  for  the  caliph 
and  lii0  court,  and  the  Sdbdi^  a  covered  passage  by  which  the  caliph 
could  veaeh  the  Makstra  from  the  Alcazar  (p.  317)  in  order  to  offer 
his  weekly  (khoiha;  on  Friday)  or  daily  prayers  (a^-^aldt), 

'Abdenahman  III.,  sornamed  ar^Ndairy  the  greatest  of  the 
Omayyads  and  the  creator  of  the  wondrous  palace  and  suburb  of 
az-Zahr&  (p.  818),  built  another  tower,  in  place  of  that  which  had 
been  damaged  by  an  earthquake  in  880,  and  furnished  it  with  the 
M^heneh,  or  room  for  the  MueEzin  (p.  310),  and  with  two  stair- 
cases, one  for  the  ascent  and  one  for  the  descent.  He  also  (958) 
restored  and  strengthened  the  court-facade  of  the  temple,  as  is 
recorded  by  an  inscribed  tablet  adjoining  the  Puerta  de  las  Palm  as 
(p.  313). 

The  llnest  expansion  of  the  mosque  was,  however,  due  to  the 
CaUph  al-H6kim  //.  al-Moitansir-biUdh,  who  in  961  et  seq.  caused 
it  to  be  nearly  doubled  in  extent  by  adding  14  new  rows  of  columns 
on  the  S.  side.  This  addition  was  effected  under  the  superintend- 
ence of  his  ^hadjib'  (maire  du  palais)  Dja'far  ibn  'Abderrahmdn 
eS'SilUabi.  Hakim  also  erected  a  new  MaJuttra  (the  dimensions  and 
description  of  which  form  a  favourite  theme  of  Arab  authors),  a 
new  Sdbdt,  and  a  third  Mihrdb,  which  is  still  perfect  and  is  with 
justice  regarded  as  the  gem  of  the  whole  building.  For  the  mosaics 
the  Greek  emperor  at' Constantinople  sent  skilled  workmen  and 
320  owts.  of  mosaic  tessene.  Four  years  and  three  months  were 
spent  on  these  works,  and  when  they  were  complete  Arabic  writers 
could  assert  of  the  Mosque  of  Cordova  that  'in  all  the  lands  of  Islam 
there  waa  none  of  equal  size,  none  more  admirable  in  point  of  work, 
construotion,  and  durability.' 

Up  to  this  time  all  the  extensions  of  the  mosque  had  been  made 
in  the  directj.on  from  N.  to  S. ;  the  breadth  of  the  original  building 
and  its  main  axis  had  not  been  altered.  A  farther  prolongation 
towards  the  S.  was  hardly  practicable,  as  the  new  mihrab,  in  con- 
sequence of  the  declivity  of  the  site,  was  already  high  above  the 
level  of  the  ground.  No  obstacle,  however,  stood  in  the  way  of 
such  an  expansion  towards  the  E.  as  was  accomplished  (987-990) 
by  Al-M^msUr,  the  *hlldjib'  of  the  weak  Caliph  Hisham  II.  This 
consisted  of  eight  new  rows  of  columns  from  N.  to  S.,  so  that  the 
mosque  now  contained  19  aisles  in  its  length  and  35  in  its  breadth. 
The  court  was  correspondingly  enlarged. 


312  RouU35.  CORDOVA.  Cathedral. 

This  addition  completed  the  huge  hull  ding.  It  also,  however, 
marked  the  beginning  of  its  decline,  as  is  shown  in  the  conven- 
tional, andoftendebased  treatment  of  individual  members.  Moreover, 
while  the  necessary  space  for  worshippers  was  furnished  on  a  large 
scale,  the  Mihrdb^  or  Holy  of  Holies,  was  displaced  from  its  natural 
central  position,  and  the  apparent  axis  of  the  building  was  falsified. 
At  the  same  time  this  extension  increased  the  general  impression 
of  endless  space  and  made  the  mosque  a  veritable  ^forest  of  columns'. 
On  the  capture  of  Oordovfc  by  St.  Ferdinand  in  1^38  the  mosque 
was  consecrated  to  the  Virgen  de  la  Asunddn,  The  various  changes 
and  mutilations  it  suffered  at  the  hands  of  the  Christians  will  be 
duly  noted  in  the  following  description  of  its  details. 

The  ground-plan  of  the  building  forms  a  rectangle  about  570  ft. 
in  length  and  425  ft.  in  width,  thus  having  an  area  approximately 
equal  to  that  of  St.  Peter's  at  Rome.  Of  this  about  one-third  is  oc- 
cupied by  the  large  court,  the  other  two-thirds  by  the  mosque  itself. 
Court  and  mosque  are  surrounded  by  an  embattled  wall,  strength- 
ened by  35  tower-like  buttresses.  On  all  sides  except  the  N.  this 
wall  stands  on  massive  substructures  or  terraces ;  It  varies  in  height 
from  30  ft.  to  65  ft.  The  buttresses  are  11  ft.  wide  at  the  bottom 
•  and  7  ft.  wide  at  the  top.  The  triangular  or  flame-shaped  battle- 
ments are  33  inches  in  height.  The  exterior  thus  forms,  as  in  most 
Oriental  buildings,  a  monotonous  and  almost  unadorned  mass  of 
masonry,  of  a  fortress-like  and  forbidding  character.  The  object  of 
the  building  is  indicated  only  by  the  tower  and  by  the  numerous 
Gatbs  on  the  W.,  E.,  and  N.  sides,  between  each  pair  of  which  there 
was  once  an  arched  window.  The  gates,  of  which  there  were  orig- 
inally 22,  were  surmounted  by  richly  -  adorned  horseshoe  arches 
and  furnished  with  bronze-mounted  doors. 

Of  these  gates  there  are  still  extant  the  following.  W.  side,  in 
the  Calle  de  Torrijos  (formerly  de  Palaoio) :  Postigo  de  la  Leehe, 
PoHlgo  de  lo8  Deanes,  Postigo  de  San  Est^an^  Postigo  de  San 
Miguel,  Puerta  de  Palacio.  —  E.  side,  in  the  Calle  del  Meson  del 
Sol,  approached  by  a  terrace  and  flights  of  steps:  PosHgo  de  Santa 
Catalina,  Puerta  Maitina^  Postigo  del  Sagrario.  On  these  three,  as 
well  as  on  the  other  and  walled  -  up  gates  of  this  side,  are  pre- 
served Arabic  inscriptions  and  Roman  milestones  from  the  old  road 
to  Cadiz.  —  N.  side,  in  the  Calle  del  Perd6n :  Puerta  de  CanigordOj 
Puerta  del  Perd6n. 

The  most  interesting  of  all  the  gates  is  the  Puerta  del  Perddny 
leading  to  the  Court  of  Oranges.  It  is  13  ft.  wide  and  25  ft.  high, 
and  is  surmounted  by  a  bell-tower.  Its  horseshoe  arches  and  Moorish 
decoration  seem  to  stamp  it  at  first  sight  as  an  Arab  work ;  but  the 
various  inscriptions  and  images  of  saints  show  its  real  origin.  It 
was,  in  fact,  erected  in  1377  by  King  Henry  of  Trastamara  in  imi- 
tation of  the  similar  gate  at  Seville  Cathedral.  The  ♦Doors  are 
plated  with  copper,  and  the  knockers  (Hlamadores')  are  of  the  same 


Cathedral.  CORDOVA.  35.  Route,  313 

materiftl.  On  the  copper  plating  are  the  word  *Deua\  in  Gothic 
characters,  and  the  Cuflc  inscription  *the  lordship  belongs  to  Allah 
and  his  protection'. 

The  Campanario  or  Bell  Tower^  which  is  300  ft.  high,  takes  the 
place  of  the  mnch  lower  minaret  (al-minar)  of  'Ahderrahm&n  III. 
(p.  311).  The  latter,  like  the  Giralda  of  SeTille(p.  400),  consisted 
of  several  stages  of  equal  diameter,  and  was  surmounted  by  silvered 
and  gilded  balls  and  by  open  lilies  crowned  with  a  golden  pome- 
granate. The  form  of  this  tower  being  unsuitable  for  Ohristian 
worship,  the  greater  part  of  it  was  taken  down  in  1547 ;  and  the 
present  tower,  designed  by  Heman  Rui%  (p.  316),  was  erected  in- 
stead in  1593  et  seq.  The  earthquake  of  Lisbon  (Nov.  1st,  1755) 
neeessitated  considerable  repairs  and  modification.  At  the  top  is 
a  figure  of  St.  Raphael  (p.  317),  with  a  vane. 

The  entranee  to  the  tower  Ih  on  the  E.  side  (adm.  20  e.) ;  it  is  ascended 
b  J  225  steps.  The  top  afibrds  a  good  bird^s-eye  view  of  the  mosque  itself], 
with  its  modern  roofs  (comp.  p.  316),  and  commands  a  wide  panorama  of 
the  cit7,  the  river,  and  iht  mountains,  and  over  the  desolate  campina  to 
the  Moorish  castle  of  Almoddvar  (p.  304)  on  the  W. 

The  •Patio  i>b  los  Na&anjos  (*court  of  oranges'),  the  former 
court  of  ablutions  (p.  31i)),  is  the  first  great  surprize  that  the  in- 
terior has  to  offer  after  the  dismal  appearance  of  the  outside.  Light, 
spacious,  well-shaded,  and  always  enlivened  by  a  few  groups  of 
quiet  visitors,  it  offers,  with  its  five  fountains,  its  green  turf,  its 
orange-trees,  and  its  palms,  a  characteristic  picture  of  Oriental  re- 
pose. It  is  surrounded  on  three  sides  by  a  colonnade  (clavMtro),  the 
N.  walk  of  which  has,  however,  been  walled  up  and  now  serves  as 
the  chancery  of  the  cathedral  (offieinas).  On  the  fourth  side  (S.) 
stands  the  mosque  itself.  The  fountains  correspond  in  number  to 
the  Moorish  midls  (p.  310),  but  probably  occupy  different  positions. 

The  court  snd  the  mosque  made  originally  one  whole.  The 
orange-trees,  planted  in  parallel  rows,  formed,  as  it  were,  a  con- 
tinuation of  the  rows  of  columns  in  the  interior.  The  19  arched 
gateways,  now  reduced  to  three,  corresponded  to  the  19  aisles  or 
alleys.  The  character  of  these  gates  is  shown  by  the  last  portal  to 
the  E. ,  leading  from  the  cloister  into  the  easternmost  aisle  of  the 
mosque.  — The  main  entrance  to  the  mosque  is  the  Puerta  de  laaPal- 
men  (or  Areo  de  las  Bendieiones\  which  is  immediately  opposite  the 
Puerta  del  Perd6n  (p.  312)  and  opens  on  the  original  oentral  aisle 
of  the  mosque,  with  the  mihrab.  This  portal  was  originally  Moorish 
but  was  ornamented  by  Henry  II.  in  the  Muddjar  style  and  provided 
with  Images  of  the  Virgin  and  the  Archangel  Gabriel. 

The  Intb&iob  of  the  Mosqub  resembles  in  its  arrangement  that 
of  the  older  Egyptian  mosques.  It  forms  the  second  great  surprize 
of  the  visitor  in  spite  of  its  moderate  height  (38  ft.),  in  spite  of  the 
destruction  of  the  perspective  by  the  Christian  additions,  in  spite 
of  the  simple  tiles  that  replace  the  original  rich  mosaic  flooring,  in 
spite  of  the  monotony  of  the  characterless  modern  vaulting.  For  th 


314  i2otte«35.  CORDOVA.  Cathedral. 

forest  of  columns  seems  endless  in  the  subdued  light.  The  visitor 
should  absorb  the  general  effect  before  proceeding  to  an  examina- 
tion of  the  details. 

The  Columns,  of  which  thjere  are  still  850  or  more,  are  tradi- 
tionally reported  to  have  been  brought  from  the  East  and  the  "West, 
from  the  ruins  of  Carthage,  from  the  old  Roman  temples  of  S.  France, 
and  from  the  churches  of  Spanish  towns  captured  by  the  Moors. 
As  a  matter  of  fact,  they  were  nearly  all  obtained  at  Oabra  (p.  307) 
and  in  other  Andalusian  quarries.  They  show  the  greatest  diversity, 
not  only  in  material  (marble,  porphyry,  jasper,  breccia)  but  also  in 
style.  A  few  late-Roman  and  Yisigothic  capitals  are  found  among 
innumerable  varieties  of  Byzantine  and  Saracenic  workmanship. 
The  shafts  are  usually  smooth,  though  a  few  are  twisted ;  none  have 
bases.  As  the  columns  are  only  about  13  ft.  in  height,  a  double  row 
of  arches  had  to  be  interposed  between  them  and  the  roof.  The 
lower  tiers  of  arches  spring  from  the  capitals  of  the  columns,  while 
the  upper  rows  are  supported  by  high  pillar-like  imposts  placed  on 
the  tops  of  the  columns.  The  lower  arches  are  in  the  horseshoe  form, 
the  upper  aiches  are  round-headed.  The  general  effect  is  one  of 
singular  and  vigorous  life ;  the  flowing  nature  of  the  arches  above 
the  motionless  and  upright  columns  recalls  the  crossing  and  inter- 
lacing jets  of  innumerable  fountains. 

The  19  AisLBs  are  all  of  the  same  height  and  width,  except  the 
original  central  aisle  leading  to  the  mihrib  and  the  two  adjoining 
it  on  either  side.  The  Tbansybbsb  Aisles  are  so  narrow  as  to  be 
little  more  than  corridors  or  passages.  The  columns  and  arches 
were  devoid  of  ornamentation,  except  that  the  latter  were  painted 
red  and  white.  This  served  to  throw  into  greater  relief  the  Ceiling, 
the  prime  glory  of  the  building.  The  open-work  roof  was  made  of 
larch  wood  and  richly  painted  in  red  and  gold.  Arabic  writers,  prob- 
ably with  some  exaggeration,  assert  that  280  chandeliers  with  7425 
lamps  hung  from  the  roof,  and  expatiate  on  the  enormous  quantity 
of  oil  that  was  consumed  daily.  ^The  gold  shines  from  the  ceiUng 
like  flrej  it  blazes  like  the  lightning  when  it  darts  across  the  clouds.' 

As  in  all  mosques,  the  culminating  point  of  the  decoration  was 
the  holy  Mihrdb,  or  prayer-niche,  also  called  Kibla  (south),  because 
its  axis  was  directed  towards  Mecca.  The  mihrab  was  enclosed  by 
the  maksi^ra  (p.  311). 

The  first  mihrab  (see  p.  310)  has  entirely  disappeared.  The 
second  mihrab,  constructed  under  'Abderrahmlln  II.  (p.  311),  was 
sadly  mutilated  by  the  first  Christian  additions  to  the  mosque 
(p.  315),  but  its  *VB8!riBULE  ( Vestibulo  del  Segundo  Mikrdb),  with 
its  superb  shell-vaulting,  has  lately  been  freed  from  disfigurements 
and  carefully  restored  (.1892). 

The  third  ♦♦Mihba.b  (Mihrab  Nuevo) ,  erected  by  Al-Hakim 
(p.  311),  is  a  small  chapel-like  structure  with  seven  sides,  the  saered 
character  of  which  was  emphasized  by  a  vestibule  and  two  side 


Cathedral.  CORDOVA.  35.  Route,  315 

looms.  The  preservation  of  this  marvel  of  Moorish  art.  is  due  partly 
to  the  fact  that  the  vestibule  was  conyerted  by  the  Christians  Into 
the  CapiUa  de  San  Pedro^  of  which  the  mlhrab  Itself  became  the 
sacristy,  and  partly  to  the  fact  that  the  altar  of  this  chapel  concealed 
and  protected  the  mosalo-wall  of  the  mlhr&b  down  to  1816.  These 
chambers  have  now  been  freed  from  disfiguring  additions,  and  are 
very  effectiye  both  as  a  whole  and  in  detail,  though  the  restoration 
they  underwent  In  1816  was  very  Inadequate  (fee  to  the  sacristan 
for  opening  the  gate  y^^i  p.).  The  interlacing  arches  of  the  vesti- 
bule reet  upon  marble  columns ;  the  dome  is  in  the  form  of  a  pine- 
apple ;  the  walls  are  coyered  by  brilliantly  coloured  mosaics,  inter- 
sected by  Arabic  inscriptions.  These  fine  mosaics  were  executed 
by  Byzantine  workmen,  but  the  attempts  at  restoration  are  yery  un- 
satisfactory. —  The  beauty  of  the  yestibule  Is,  howeyer,  trans- 
cended by  that  of  the  mihrib  itself,  a  small  recess  about  14  ft.  in 
diameter.  The  celling  (hubha),  28  ft.  aboye  the  floor,  consists  of  a 
block  of  white  marble  hollowed  out  into  the  form  of  a  shell.  The 
magnificent  entrance-archway  rests  upon  two  green  and  two  blue 
columns  taken  from  one  of  the  earlier  mihr&bs.  The  walls  are 
panelled  with  richly  carved  marble.  The  white  marble  pavement 
is  worn  by  the  devotion  of  the  pilgrims,  who  made  a  sevenfold 
circuit  of  its  walls  on  their  knees  j  hence  the  Christians  scornfully 
named  it  the  Capilla  del  Zancarr6n  (*of  the  bare  bone').  —  The 
E.  side-chamber,  now  the  Capilla  de  la  Cena,  formerly  contained 
the  magnificent  Moorish  pulpit  (al^Mimbat)j  which  Ambrosio  de 
Morales  called  the  Silla  del  Rey  Almansor,  It  was  a  desk  mounted 
on  wheels  and  bearing  a  splendid  copy  of  the  Koran,  written  by 
the  Caliph  Omar,  second  in  descent  from  the  Prophet,  and  sprinkled 
with  his  blood.  —  The  Sdbctt  (p.  311),  which  ended  at  the  W.  side 
chamber,  has  now  vanished,  like  the  pulpit  and  the  maksiira. 
Along  with  the  rooms  for  the  attendants  of  the  temple,  this  origin- 
ally occupied  two  of  the  transverse  rows,  now  converted  into  chapels. 

The  alterations  of  the  Christian  Spaniards  were  at  first  limited 
to  the  construction  of  a  few  chapels  in  the  outermost  aisles  of  the 
mosque.  Some  of  these  were  built  against  the  partition-wall  be- 
tween the  original  mosque  and  the  extension  of  Al-Mansur  (p.  311), 
the  place  of  which  is  recognizable  by  the  remains  of  the  old  E.  Gate, 
As  early  as  1260,  however,  it  was  found  that  the  needs  of  the 
Christian  ritual  demanded  a  choir ;  and  to  make  room  for  this  were 
sacrificed  the  vestibule  of  the  second  mihrlLb  (p.  314)  and  parts  of 
the  adjoining  six  aisles.  A  relic  of  this  building  is  found  in  the 
CapiUa  de  Nuestra  Senora  de  ViUavidosa^  which  was  erected  in  the 
Mud^jar  style  by  Moorish  workmen  as  the  CapiUa  Mayor,  To  this 
was  soon  added  the  sacristy,  now  the  CapiUa  de  San  Pablo j  which 
enclosed  the  Capilla  Real  (1371),  erected  by  Henry  of  Trastamara 
for  the  tombs  of  Ferdinand  lY.  and  Alfonso  XI.  (p.  309). 

The  century  of  reaction  against  the  Reformation  finally  broup^' 


316   Route  36.  CORDOVA.  CaihedraX, 

the  Renaissakob  Choir,  -which,  with  its  CapiUa  Mayor  and  a  Tran- 
sept (cruceio),  was  250  ft.  long  and  displaced  no  fewer  than  63  col- 
nmns.  The  Town  Coancil  of  Cordova  in  yain  threatened  with 
death  all  those  who  shonld  help  in  this  work.  Charles  Y.,  -with  an 
imperfect  understanding  of  the  sitnation,  gave  the  chapter  the  ne- 
cessary authority,  and  the  hnllding  was  begun  in  1523.  The  orig- 
inal plan  o{  Heman  Ruiz  was  afterwards  partly  altered,  and  the 
work  was  not  finally  completed  till  1607.  Though  in  itself  a 
masterpiece  of  plateresqne  architecture,  this  Christian  choir  has 
for  ever  destroyed  the  harmonious  proportions  of  the  mosque. 
Charles  Y.  himself  expressed  this  feeling  in  the  words  he  addressed 
to  the  cathedral  chapter  on  visiting  Cordova  in  1526 :  ^You  have 
built  what  you  or  others  might  have  built  anywhere,  but  you  have 
destroyed  something  that  was  unique  in  the  world'. 

The  building  of  the  lofty  choir  naturally  involved  the  destruction 
of  part  of  the  roofs  of  the  aisles.  This  process  of  destruction  was 
abetted  by  the  gradual  disappearance  of  the  leaden  gutters  separat- 
ing the  roof  of  one  aisle  from  those  of  its  neighbours.  The  lamen- 
table result  was  the  thorough  dilapidation  of  the  Moorish  wooden 
ceiling,  which  had  to  be  replaced  in  1713  by  the  present  feature- 
less vaulting. 

Few  of  the  Christian  Art  Treasures  of  the  bailding  are  of  much  value. 
The  fine  Silleria  in  the  Choib  was  executed  by  Pedro  Gornejo  (d.  1758)  in 
the  richest  baroque  style.  The  Pulpiis ,  with  the  attributes  of  the  Evan- 
gelists, are  by  Miguel  Verdiguier  (1766).  The  Choir  Books  are  finely  illum- 
inated. The  silver  Chcmdelier^  dating  from  1636,  weighs  400 lbs.  The 
elaborate  Sigh  AltaVy  by  Matias  Alonso  (1618),  is  adorned  with  a  painting 
by  Palomino. 

In  the  S.E.  comer  of  the  cathedral  is  the  Pasboquia,  or  parish-church. 

—  There  are  in  all  46  Latkkai.  Ohapels,  few  of  which  call  for  mention. 
The  Gapilla  de  la  Cena  (p.  815)  contains  a  painting  of  the  Last  Supper  by 
Cdspedes.  It  is  adjoined  on  the  left  by  the  Sala  Capitular^  with  a  fine 
statue  of  St.  Theresa  bv  Alonso  Gano  and  figures  of  eight  other  saints  by 
Jos^  de  Mora.  On  a  pillar  adjoining  the  Capilla  del  Santo  Cristo  del  JPunto 
is  an  Annunciation  with  saints,  an  altar-piece  by  Pedro  de  Cdrdoba  (1475). 

—  In  the  pavement,  opposite  the  CapiUa  de  San  Pablo  (p.  315),  is  the 
tomb  of  the  painter  Pablo  de  C^spedes  (p.  309).  —  The  Crucifix^  visible 
on  a  column  in  the  fifth  row,  to  the  left  of  the  main  entrance,  is  said  to 
have  been  scratched  by  a  Christian  captive  with  his  finger-nails,  as  re- 
corded in  the  Latin  verses  inscribed  on  the  column.  —  The  Sacbibtt  con- 
tains a  splendid  custodia  by  Enrique  de  Arphe  (1513),  which  is  not  shown 
except  by  special  permission. 

To  the  W.  of  the  cathedral ,  in  the  Galle  de  Torrijos ,  are  the 
church  of  San  Jacinto  (PI.  0,  4),  with  a  rich  Gothic  portal,  and 
La  Cuna ,  or  the  foundling-hospital ,  officially  known  as  the  Casa 
ProviTicinl  de  Expdsitos,  To  the  S.  is  the  large  Palacio  Epibcopai. 
(PI.  C,  4),  built  in  the  16th  cent,  and  renewed  in  1746.  The  Sala 
de  Atidiencia  contains  portraits  of  all  the  bishops  of  Cordova.  The 
pretty  walled  garden  is  full  of  lemon-trees  trained  on  trellises. 

The  Calle  Amador  de  los  Rios  leads  between  the  Bishop's  Palace 
on  the  right  and  the  Seminario  de  San  Pelagio  on  the  left  to  the 


Alcazar.  CORDOVA.  35.  Route.   317 

Camposanto  de  loa  Mdrtirta  (PI.  C,  4),  or  CampiUo,  supposed  to  be 
the  spot  of  the  Christian  martyrdoms  under  the  Moors.  On  the  S. 
side  of  this  plaza,  on  the  site  of  a  palace  of  the  Gothic  King  Rod- 
erick, lies  the  — 

AlcAsar  (PI.  C,  4),  an  extensive  pile  of  buildings,  with  massive 
walls  and  towers  and  gardens ,  formerly  extending  on  the  N.B.  to 
the  cathedraL  The  S.  part  of  it  is  the  Moorish  Alcazar  Viejo,  of 
which  little  remains  except  a  few  towers,  a  bath,  and  a  water 
ronduit.  The  N.  part  is  the  Alc&%ar  Nuevo,  built  by  Alfonso  XI.  in 
1328 ,  once  the  seat  of  the  Inquisition  and  now  a  prison.  On  the 
river,  by  the  S.E.  comer  of  the  latter,  is  the  entrance  to  the  Huerta 
del  ALcdzart  now  in  private  hands  (fee  60  c).  This  should  be  visited 
far  the  sake  of  the  striking  picture  afforded  by  its  luxuriant  vege- 
tation, the  crumbling  ruins,  the  springs,  the  Torre  de  Paloma  (S.W.), 
and  the  Torre  del  Diablo  (N.E.).  —  From  the  Camposanto  de  los 
Mirtires  we  may  proceed  to  the  S.W.  to  the  Barrio  del  Alcdzar 
ViejOy  whence  we  may  walk  towards  the  N.  to  the  Pueria  de  Almo' 
d6var  (p.  309),  or  go  on  through  the  Puerta  de  SeviUa  (PL  B,  4)  to 
the  Cementerio  (PL  B,  4),  which  was  laid  out  in  1817. 

To  the  S.  of  the  cathedral  rises  the  Triunfo  (PL  C,  4) ,  erected 
in  1766  in  honour  of  St.  Raphael,  the  patron-saint  of  Cordova,  by 
two  French  artists,  Oraveton  and  Verdiguier.  Just  below  is  the 
Puerta  del  Puente,  a  Doric  triumphal  arch,  erected  by  Herrera  under 
Philip  II.  and  said  to  occupy  the  site  of  the  Moorish  Bib  al-Kantara, 
The  reliefs  are  ascribed  to  Pieiro  Torrigianij  who,  however,  died 
in  1622.  This  gate  leads  to  the  Moorish  *Bridge  (PL  C,  D,  4), 
with  its  16  arches,  which  connects  Cordova  with  its  S.  suburb, 
Campo  de  la  Verdad,  The  bridge  is  730  ft.  long  and  stands  on 
Roman  foundations.  From  the  middle  of  it  we  have  a  good  view 
of  the  Moorish  Mills,  on  the  Guadalquivir,  and  of  the  Mosque,  the 
massy  masonry  of  which ,  dominated  by  the  lofty  choir  and  the 
belfry ,  stands  out  clearly  against  the  background  of  the  Sierra  do 
Cordoba  (N.).  At  the  other  end  of  the  bridge  is  the  Calahorra  or 
Carrahola  (the  Iberian  Calagurris),  the  massive  t^te-de^ont  at  the 
beginning  of  the  road  to  Seville. 

From  the  S.E.  angle  of  the  cathedral  the  Oarrera  del  Puente 
runs  to  the  N.E.  to  the  Pasio  de  Ribera  (PL  D,  E,  3),  a  favourite 
promenade  of  the  lower  classes,  leading  along  the  Guadalquivir  to 
the  E.  to  a  weir  with  a  group  of  Moorish  mills  and  to  the  Capilla 
de  lot  Mdrtiret, 

Farther  to  the  E. ,  beyond  the  extensive  Campo  de  Madre  de 
Dios,  is  the  Santuario  de  Nueatra  Senora  de  Fuensanta  (PL  F,  3), 
where  a  much-frequented  festival  takes  place  on  Sept^  8-1 0th. 

We  now  proceed  to  the  N.,  skirting  the  remains  of  the  city-wall, 
to  the  church  of  El  Carmen  (PL  E,  F,  2),  containing  a  fine  altar- 
piece  by  Valdes  LeaL  Or  we  may  follow  the  Calle  del  Sol  to  the 
W.  to  the  church  of  San  Pedro  {VI,  E,  3),  and  thence  thread  the 


318  Route  36,  CORDOVA. 

narrow  streets  to  the  N.W.  to  the  Corrtdera,  now  occupied  by  the 
Mercado  (PI.  D,  3),  hut  formerly  an  open  square,  surrounded  with 
arcades  and  used  for  tournaments  and  bull-flgbts.  —  To  the  N.W. 
of  this  point  lies  the  Casa  de  Ayuntamiento  (PI.  3 ;  D,  2),  whence 
the  Oalle  de  Alfaros  runs  to  the  N. ,  past  the  Puerta  del  Rincon 
(PI.  D,  1,2;  1406),  to  the  large  Campo  db  la  Mbbcbd  (PI.  0,  D,  1). 
On  the  W.  side  of  this  lies  the  Hospieio  (poorhouse)  and  to  the 
N.E.  rises  the  Torre  de  Malmuerta  (PI.  D,  1) ,  said  to  have  been 
built  by  a  knight  in  1406  in  expiation  of  the  murder  of  his  wife. 

From  the  S.W.  corner  of  the  Campo  the  Calle  Osario,  continued 
by  the  Calle  Ramirez  Ayellanos,  leads  to  the  S.  to  the  Gothic  church 
of  San  Miguel  (PI.  C,  2) ,  the  S.  aisle  of  which  is  adjoined  by  a 
beautiful  chapel  in  the  Mud^jar  style.  Hence  we  return  through  the 
Calle  de  la  Plata  to  the  CaUe  del  Conde  Oondomar  (p.  309). 

The  other  Chubchbs  of  Cordoya,  such  as  Santa  Marina  (PI.  D,  1), 
San  Agustin  (PI.  E,  1),  and  San  Lorenzo  (PI.  E,  1,  2),  are  com- 
paratively uninteresting.  —  The  Museum  (PI.  D,  3),  in  the  Escuela 
Provincial  de  BtUas  Aries  ^  is  also  of  little  importance.  It  contains 
paintings  and  drawings  by  Zurbaran^  Ribera^  Castillo,  C^pedea, 
and  Jtum  de  Mena ,  a  few  Roman  and  Moorish  monuments  and  in- 
scriptions, a  stag  of  bronze,  and  other  antiquities  (fee  50  c).  In 
the  Plaza  del  Potro ,  in  front  of  the  museum ,  stands  a  Fountain, 
with  the  figure  of  a  colt,  the  cognizance  of  Cordova,  as  mentioned 
by  Cervantes.  —  A  few  of  the  Private  Houses  deserve  notice,  such 
as  that  of  Jer6nimo  Paez,  in  the  plaza  of  that  name  (PI.  C,  D,  3),  with 
its  handsome  Renaissance  portal,  and  those  of  Don  Juan  Conde,  the 
Marquis  de  ViUastca,  and  the  Conde  del  Aguila.  —  The  Hospitax 
DEL  Cabdenal  or  Hospital  de  Agudos  (PI.  C,  3)  contains  the  Capilla 
de  San  BartolomS,  formerly  the  Mosala  of  Al-Mansiir  (p.  311),  a 
beautiful  little  structure  in  the  Mud^jar  style. 

Ezenniona.  On  a  spur  of  the  Sierra  de  CkSrdoba,  to  the  W.  of  the 
city,  stand  the  Ermiia*  de  Valparaiso  or  Convento  ErmitaiiOy  which  may  be 
visited  by  a  drive  of  i-6hrs.  (there  and  backj  carr.  and  pair  about  16  fr.  ^ 
bargaining  necessary).  A  permission  to  visit  the  Ermitas  (for  men  only) 
may  be  obtained  in  the  Bishop's  Palace  (p.  816)  for  any  week-day.  There 
is  not  much  to  see  in  the  Ermitas  themselves,  but  the  drive  and  the 
views  (especially  that  from  the  SiUa  del  Obttpo)  are  deservedly  renowned. 
With  this  excursion  may  be  combined  a  visit  to  the  fine  Quinta  de  ilrri- 
$e^fa,  the  RUte/a  of  ^Abderrahman,  immediately  to  the  K.  of  the  city.  — 
An  excursion  (Less  important)  may  also  be  made  to  the  ConverUo  de  San 
Jerdmmo,  4>/s  M.  to  the  K.W.  in  the  Sierra  de  C6rdoba.  The  convent, 
which  is  now  an  insane  asylum,  was  built  in  1405,  probably  with  the 
remains  of  the  celebrated  MeditMi  a$-Zahrd  (G&rdova  la  Vieja)^  where 
'Abderrahmftn  III.  constructed  a  palace  for  his  favourite  Az-Zahr&.  Accord- 
ing to  Al-Makkari  and  other  Arabic  writers,  this  palace  was  on  the  scale 
of  a  town  rather  than  a  villa ,  while  its  wonders  of  art  and  luxury  were 
such  as  to  make  even  those  of  the  Alhambra  pale  by  comparison.  Its 
cost  is  said  to  have  been  more  than  50,000,000^. !  —  Excursion  to  Almo- 
d(5var,  see  p.  304. 


319 

36.  From  CArdoYa  to  MAlaga  vii  Pnente  Oenil  and 
Bobadilla. 

120  M.  Railway  (two  trains  daily)  in  61/4-671  hn.  (fares  24  p.  46, 
18  p.  36,  11  p.  10  c).  There  are  also  a  local  train  between  Cordova  and 
Pumie  OeMlj  and  two  trains  between  Alora  (p.  820)  and  Malaga.  The 
trains  start  from  the  Main  Railway  Station  at  Cordova.  There  are  railway 
restonxaBts  at  C&rdova^  PuenU  OenU^  and  Bobadilla  (meal -station).  — 
Passengers  for  Ja€n  and  Espeluy  (K.  34)  change  carriages  at  Putnte  Omil; 
for  UirorOt  StvilUy  and  CadU  (R.  42)  at  La  Roda  (p.  (KX);  in  the  reverse 
direction  at  Bobadilla)  \  for  Qrandda  (B.  38)  and  for  Eonda  and  Algeciras 
(Oibraltar;  R.  40)  t^i  Bobadtlla.  —  For  the  lag  gage-arrangements  at  irategra, 
comp.  p.  331. 

Cordova,  see  p.  307.  —  The  train  touches  at  the  suburban 
station  of  La  Cercadilla  (p.  307],  runs  for  a  little  parallel  with  the 
railway  to  Seville,  then  turns  to  the  S.,  and  crosses  the  Guadal- 
quivir by  a  bridge  650  ft  in  length.  Beyond  the  river  it  traverses 
the  dreary  hill-district  of  the  Campina,  which  is  intersected  by  the 
yellow  Ouadajoz,  The  parched  fields  are  overgrown  with  thistles. 
Groves  of  acacias  and  a  few  straw-roofed  huts  relieve  the  mono- 
tony. Fine  retrospect  of  Cordova,  the  Sierra  de  C6rdoba,  and 
Almod6var  (p.  304).  —  5  M.  VaUhilldn. 

At  Valchillon  diverges  the  Direct  Railway  fbom  Cordova  to  Cadiz 
(165  M.„in  8-IOV4  hrs.;  fares  38  p.  75,  24  p.  86,  16  p.  25  c).  The  most  im- 
portant intermediate  stations  are:  86  M.  Eeifa;  62  M.  Marehona  (p.  887); 
80  M.  Empahnt  d»  Morfin  (p.  387);  and  (90  M.)  Utnra  (p.  427).  This 
line  IS,  however,  of  little  interest  to  travellers  for  pleasure,  who  will  nn- 
doubtedly  prefer  the  route  viE  8«vill«  (R.  33). 

We  cross  the  Quads joz  several  times.  —  15  M.  Torrea  Cabrera, 
Beyond  (21  M.)  Femdn  Nunez  begins  an  undulating  district  with 
"Vineyards  and  extensive  olive-plantations,  which  reach  to  the  valley 
of  the  Genii  (see  below)  and  beyond  it. 

31  M.  Montilla  (1166 ft.),  a  high-lying  town  with  13,000  in- 
hab.,  is  celebrated  for  Its  white  wine,  resembling  the  sherry  of 
Jerez  (p.  429).  The  Palace  of  the  Duke  of  Medinaceli  was  the 
birthplace  of  *E1  Gran  Capitan'  (p.  309).  —  The  train  sweeps  round 
the  E.  side  of  the  town,  with  the  Sierra  de  Montilla  and  its  vineyards 
to  the  left,  and  descends  through  cuttings.  We  cross  the  Caftra  (p.  307), 

351/2  M.  Aguildr  de  la  FronUra,  a  town  with  10,800  inhab.,  is 
also  known  for  its  'Montilla  wine'  and  olives.  —  Farther  on,  to  the 
right ,  are  the  two  small  lakes  of  Zonar  and  Rine6n ,  surrounded 
with  olive-trees  and  abounding  iu  fish.  To  the  left  is  the  old 
Moorish  castle  of  Anzur,  now  belonging  to  the  Duke  of  Medinaceli. 
Fine  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Genii  and  the  Andalusian  coast-moun- 
tains. —  45^2  W-  Campo  Real. 

471/2  M.  Puente  Oenil,  the  junction  for  the  railway  to  Jaen 
(R.  34),  lies  2  M.  to  tbe  S.E.  of  the  town  of  the  same  name 
(8900  inhab.),  which  is  seen  to  the  right  as  we  cross  the  lofty 
bridge  over  the  Genii.  Below  lies  the  village  of  Palomar.  —  The 
railway  now  traverses  a  comer  of  the  province  of  Seville  and  ascends 
a  plateau,  in  the  middle  of  which  rises  the  inconsiderable  Sierra  d 


320   Route  36,  BOBADILLA. 

TSgwUj  the  source  of  several  streams  flowing  to  the  ^.,W.,  and  ^  \ 
To  the  E.  rise  the  first  mountain-chains  of  Upper  Agdalusia.  J    1 
66  M.    Casariche,   mainly  Inhabited  by  charcoal-buirers.  —  ^Vw — ^ 
ascend  through  the  valley  of  the  Teguas  to  —  ~~  ■  — 

62  M.  La  Boda,  a  place  of  no  importance  except  as  the  junctli 
of  the  railway  to  Utrera  (Cadiz,  Seville j  R.  42), 

Our  line  runs  to  the  S.W.  and  soon  reaches  its  highest  poi 
(1475  ft),  on  the  border-line  between  the  provinces  of  Seville  ai 
Mdlaga,  —  70  M.  Fuente  de  Piedra,  the  Fons  Divinus  of  the  Romai 
with  mineral  springs  useful  to  sufferers  from  the  stone.  To  t] 
right,  amid  olives,  lies  the  Laguna  Salada^  a  large  salt-lake,  tli 
crust  on  which  in  the  dry  season  resembles  a  sheet  of  ice. 

77  M.  Bobadilla  (1245  ft.;  *Rail.  Restaurant)  is  the  junctitj 
for  trains  to  Malaga,  Granada  (R.  38),  Ronda-Algeciras  (Gibraltal 
R.  40),  and  Utrera  (Cadiz,  Seville;  R.  42).  All  trains  stop  he| 
long  enough  for  a  comfortable  meal  at  the  railway-restaurant. 

The  Malaga  railway  enters  the  valley  of  the  Ouadalhorcey  whi<3 
descends  from  the  E.  and  soon  receives  the  waters  of  the  Quadateh  \ 
and  the  Bwrgo ,  both  rising  in  the  hill-district  of  Ronda  (p.  369)11 
Beyond  a  tunnel  we  cross  the  river,    85  M.   Qohantts  (i040ft.),l 
the  station  for  the  baths  of  Cartairaca^  11  M.  to  the  S.W.  < 

Beyond  Gobantes  begins  the  deep  and  wild  gorge  of  the  •Hoyt 
('hole',  'pit')  or  Qiorto^  by  which  the  river  forces  its  way  througlj 
the  calcareous  slate  strata  of  the  coast-range.  The  train  remains  ofl, 
the  left  bank,  threading  11  tunnels  and  crossing  lofty  bridges  ovel| 
the  lateral  ravines  (canadas).  The  finest  point  is  near  the  sixtlj 
tunnel,  but  there  is  little  time  to  realize  the  grandeur  of  the  sceneryj 

89  M.  ChorrOy  in  a  wild  rocky  landscape.  After  passing  through! 
three  short  tunnels,  we  suddenly  emerge  on  a  scene  of  souihera'^^' 
luxuriance,  with  the  first  oranges,  palms,  and  cypresses.  The  travel- 
ler coming  from  the  bleak  plateau  of  Castile  is  now  at  a  step  exposed 
to  the  magical  charm  of  an  Andalusian  sky  and  subtropical  vege* 
tation,  —  The  train  crosses  to  the  right  bank  of  the  Guadalhorce. 

97  M.  Alora  (330  ft.),  the  ancient  Iluro,  a  town  of  6700  inhab.,  [ 
lies  to  the  right,  in  a  beautiful  situation  at  the  foot  of  the  Sierra 
delHacho^  a  favourite  resort  of  the  citizens  of  Malaga.  A  much- 
frequented  feria  takes  place  here  on  Aug.  1st.  —  The  water  of 
the  Guadalhorce  is  led  off  in  numerous  small  channels  to  irrigate ' 
the  huertas.  Beyond  a  final  tunnel  the  valley  expands,  Werecross. 
to  the  left  bank. 

102  M.  Pizarra^  another  station  for  visitors  to  Carratraca  (see  ^ 
above).  The  bed  of  the  river  becomes  broad  and  sandy.  To  the^' 
W.  is  the  high-lying  Casa  Rabonela ,  to  the  S.  the  Sierra  de  Mijas.  '^ 

107  M.  Cdrtama^  the  Roman  Cartima.  The  village ,  with  a 
Moorish  castle,  lies  2^/2  M.  to  the  S.W,,  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Guadalhorce,  which  was  once  navigable  to  this  point.  The  Sugar 
Plar^tations  have  suffered  greatly  in  recent  years  from  night-frosts.  y< 


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MALAGA.  37.  RouU.    311 

From  Cirtama  a  diligdnee  nins  to  the  8.W.,  ap  the  valley  of  the  Bio 
Steo^  to  Oma,  a  town  of  8700  inhab. ,  finely  situated  amid  mountains  and 
surrounded  by  rich  Tineyard«  and  groves  of  oranges  and  lemons.  Thenee 
the  diligence  goes  on  to  Monda,  tbe  Munda  of  the  ancients,  where  Csesar 
defeated  the  sons  of  Pompey  on  March  17th,  B.C.  45.  We  then  traverse 
the  mountain-pass  between  the  Sierra  de  Qvaro  on  ihe  W.  snd  the  Sierra 
de  Miftu  on  the  E.,  and  descend  via  OJtn  to  MttrbeUa  (U.S.  consular  agency 
and  British  vice-oonsnlate),  on  the  road  from  Malaga  to  Gibraltar.  -^  Another 
diligcBce  connects  Coin  with  the  small  town  of  Aihaurin  el  Grande^  situat(>d 
to  the  S.B.,  on  the  N.  slope  of  the  Sierra  de  Mijas,  and  also  girt  with 
grovef  of  oranges  and  lemons.  4  bridle-path  leads  hence  to  the  S.E.  over  the 
mountains  to  the  small  town  of  Mijasy  whence  a  fine  road  (beautiful  views) 
descends  to  Benalmadma  and  Torremolinos  (p.  824),  on  the  road  to  Malaga. 

113  M.  Campanulas y  on  a  tributary  of  the  Guadalhoree  bearing 
the  same  name,  which  waters  the  celebrated  wine-growing  district 
of  ATMxrquCa  (N.).  The  valley  expands  into  the  Hoya  de  Mdlaga 
(p.  323),  a  wide  plain^  The  railway  leaves  the  Gnadalhorce,  which 
turns  to  the  S.E.  To  the  S. ,  at  the  base  of  tbe  Sierra ,  appear  the 
villages  of  Akmrinejo  and  Ckvfriana,  and  then  the  sea.  To  the  left 
is  Malaga,  with  its  factory-ohimneys. 

120  M.  Malaga^  see  below. 

37.  Malaga. 

Arrival.  At  the  Railway  Station  {Sttacidn  del  Fetrccarril;  PI.  A,  5) 
are  waiting  Hotel  Omaitttiet^  Cabs^  and  ihe  Omnbus  General  (25  c).  The 
last  runs  to  tbe  Deepacho  Central  (p.  xvi),  in  the  Pue rta  del  Mar.  As  there 
is  generally  some  delay  in  disfrlbuting  the  luggage,  the  best  plan  is  to 
give  up  the  luggage-ticket,  in  return  for  a  receipt,  to  the  railway-official, 
who  goes  through  ihe  train,  like  an  American  transfer  agent,  between 
Bobadilla  and  Malaga  rnd  undertakes  to  forward  luggage  to  the  passenger  # 
hotel  or  house  (25-50  c.  per  piece).  —  A&rival  bt  Sea  (comp.  p.  xviii).  The 
charge  for  landing  is  50  o.  per  person  and  for  each  trunk.  The  transport 
to  the  Aduana  and  the  hotel,  all  told,  should  not  cost  more  than  2-3  p. 
(baif  aining  advisable). 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xx).  ''HdTKL  de  Roma  (PI.  a^  G.  i),  on  the  N.  side 
of  the  Alameda,  first-class  and  well  fitted  up,  with  lift,  pens.  12-20  p.  \ 
*HCxEt  iNGLfis  (PI.  b;  G.  4),  Galle  del  Marques  de  Larios  4,  with  view 
of  the  Alameda,  penA.  6-12  p.,  unpretending;  HCtel  IvoLfis,  same  street, 
5,  pens,  frcm  61/2  p.  j  Hdist.  de  Pabis,  same  street,  at  the  corner  of  tbe 
Plaza  dela  Gonstitucion,  pens.  6- 10  p.  -^  Pension  of  Fernando  de  la  Cdmara 
(PI.  d  ^  G,  8),  a  well'famished  house  in  the  suburban  quarter  of  the  Caleta, 
not  intended  for  transient  guests,  pens.  10-12  p. 

OaMa.  Oa/d  Vietoria,  on  the  groundfloor  of  the  hotel  of  that  name ; 
Cafi-Jiestaurant  JngUe^  fee  above;  Ca/i-Restaurant  de  la  Loba^  Cafi  EtpaSia^ 
Plata  de  la  Gonstitucion  *,  Cafi  Univereai^  Calle  de  Granada;  Ce^i-Restavrant 
Btmdn  CortU  (PI.  G,  8),  in  the  Galeta  (p.  323).  —  Bbbk  at  the  AtMrican 
Bar,  Calle  del  Marques  de  Larios. 

Oaba  (chief  stand  on  tbe  Alameda).  Cab  with  two  seats,  per  drive  1, 
perlir.  2  p.,  at  night  2  and  2y«p.;  with  four  seats,  IV2,  2V2,  3,  and  3  p. 
~  Drives  outside  the  (own  by  bargain.  To  Pa^a  (p.  828)  about  5  p.,  to 
8anJo$4  and  La  CoMepcidn  10,  to  TorrenwHr.oe  and  La  Consula  (p.  328), 
15,  to  Fuente  de  la  Reina  (p.  328)  or  to   YeUz-Malaga  (p.  S28)  25-30  p. 

Saddle  Horses  may  be  bired  of  Valero^  Calle  de  la  Puriflcacidn, 
<V»p.  peir  day.  —  Donkeys:  JcU  Femandts,  Calle  del  Cauce;  2V<  P«  for 
^^^a*day,  4  p.  per  day,  as  much  again  for  attendant. 
^  Tramways.  1.  From  the  RaVway  Station  (PI.  A,  5)  by  the  Calle  de 
CuirWes  to  the  Piterta  del  Uar  (PI.  C,  4).  —  2.  Prom  the  Railmcy  Station 
^r  tbe  CaJle  de  Gnarteles,  the  Calle  de  Torrijos  (PI.  B,  C,  2,  3),  the  Plasa 
Babdbker'i  Spain.  21 


322   Ro^37.  MALAGA.  Situation, 

dt  Riego  (PI.  D,  3),  and  %ht  Calle  de  Granada  to  tke  CorikiM  del  Mvelle 
(PI.  C,  4).  —  3.  From  the  J*uerta  del  Mar  (PL  C,  A)  by  the  jklameda  and 
Caleta  to  Palo  (p.  SOB)  every  Vs  hr.  (to  the  Gaf^  Heman  Cortet  every  1/4  hr). 

Poet  and  Telegraph  Oftee  (Correo  9  TeUgrttfot;  PI.  D,  3),  Galle  Gister, 
to  the  K.E.  of  the  cathedral.  Poete  restante  letters  are  distributed  1  hr. 
after  the  arrival  of  the  mail-traine. 

Batha*  A.  Porra$  (also  hair-dreaser),  Galle  del  Harqu^  de  Larioa  9, 
elean>  bath  IV4  p. }  La»  DiUsiaty  Galle  de  San  Francieeo.  —  fte*  Bfttlw 
(June-Sept.).  Mstrella  (PI.  S,  F,  i)y  ApQl»  (PI.  F,  4),  both  in  Malagaeta. 

Theatre*.  Teairo  de  CervmUee  (PI.  D,  ^),  to  the  ^.W.  of  the  Plasa  de 
Biego,  with  occaBional  performances  of  Italian  opera;  Teatro  Frincifioi 
(PI.  C,  2,  3),  for  dramas  (  Teatro  Oireo  do  Lara  (PI.  B,  4),  Galle  Torre  Qorda, 
for  eomedies  and  farces.  —  Cafes  Oantantea  (oomp.  p.  m}-.  Oafi  del  Sigla^ 
Cafi  Tvrco^  for  men  onlv.  —  Bull  King  {Plaea  de  Torot;  PL  B,  3),  in 
Malagneta,  for  about  11,00J  spectators. 

Oonanlatea.  Britiih  Gonsul,  Alexander  Fhkn^  Gortina  del  Maelle  93  (with 
Engliah  circulating  library)  ^  Pro-Consul,  Cha*.  Coicai^.  —  U.  S..GQ^sul,i^.  Mf. 
Bartleman;  Vice-Consul,  T.  R.  Qeary. 

Englieh  Church  in  the  British  Cemetery  (p.  327},  On  the  Galeta  road; 
service  on  Sun.  at  11  a.  m. ;  chaplain,  Rev.  Arlkw  Mvant, 

Bngliah  Physician,  J)r,  Clarence  Vuicic,  CaUe  de  Vendeja  7.  —  ioaar- 
ican  SentiBt,  Dr.  Whitmarsh^  Calle  Martinez»  at  the  corner  of  the  Calle 
del  Marques  de  Larios.  —Druggist:  Farmdeia  de  Candles^  Calle  de  Com- 
pania  16. 

Bankers.  Rein  d:  Co.^  Alameda  Hermosa ;  Amat  EermanoSy  Plaza  de  los 
Moros;  Clemens  A  Petersen,  Cumming  d;  Van  DtUken,    Alameda  Colon. 

Shops  (comp.  p.  xxiii).  The  best  an  ii^  ih&  Calle  del  Marques  de  Larios, 
the  Calle  de  Puerta  del  Mar,  the  Calle  Nueva,  and  the  Calle  de  Granada. 

Wine  Kerchants,  Crooke  BrotherSy  Alameda  15^  Bduarda  Loring;  Hijos 
Ramos  Potter;  Jimenez  d:  Lamothe.  Good  Montilla  wine  (p.  319)  may  be 
obtained  at  the  Soleras  de  Montilla^  Calle  de  Comedias.  -^  Malaga  BaiaiMi 
(pasas)y  packed  in  taeteful  boxes,  are  sold  by  Clemens^  Pries,  jRefn,  etc. 

Steamers  ply  more  or  less  regularly  to  the  chief  Mediterranean  ports, 
England,  Prance,  N.  Germany,  America,  and  other  parts  of  the  world. 
Among  the  lines  of  chief  importance  for  tourists  are  those  of  John  BtM 
A  Co.y  sailing  Iveekly  to  Cadiz,  Lisbon,  and  London  (agents,  Crooke  Bros. y 
see  above);  the  Cunavd  Co.  (agent,  Loring^  and  Moss  Co.  (agent,  C.  Farqu- 
harsony  Cortina  del  Muelle  65),  for  Liverpool,  at  Irregular  intervals;  Com- 
pagnie  TrtmsatlanUgue^  sailing  every  second  Sun.  for  Gibraltar  and  Tan- 
giers  (agent,  Juan  RoosCy  Calle  de  la  Bolsa  1). 

Chief  Attractions  (visit  of  1 1/2  day),  1st  Pay.  Koming :  AUmeda 
(p.  324),  Harbour  (p.  325 ;  view  from  E.  mole),  Cathedral  (p.  325),  view  froin 
the  tower  of  the  cathedral  or  from  the  Qihralforb  (p.  327).  Afternoon: 
English  CemeUry  (p.  327),  Caleta  (p.  328),  and  Palo  (p.  328).  —  2rid  Day. 
Excursion  to  the  Hacienda  de  San  Josi  and  La  Concepci^n  (p.  ^QS).  The 
environs  of  Malaga  are  exceedingly  beautiful. 

Malaga,  the  capital  of  a  pToyiiioie,  the  see  of  a  bishop,  aii€L  the 
oldest  and  most  famous  Spanish  seaport  on  the  Mediterranean^  is 
picturesquely  situated  on  the  last  spurs  of  the  miOuntaia<-faQgee 
that  enclose  the  wide  Bahta  de  McUagCy  forming  a  semioircte  ab(mt 
50  M.  long  under  the  names  of  Sierra  Tcjea^  Sierra  de  Alhamdf  Sierra 
deAbdalajiSy  And.  Sierra  de  Mijas,  The  inner  part  of  the  bay  is 
bounded  by  the  Puthta  de  ios  C&ntales  on  the  E.  and  by  the  Torre 
de  Pimentel,  at  Torremolinos,  on  the  W.  In  the  nilddle  of  It  pro- 
jects the  Gibralfaro,  or  acropolis  of  Malaga,  and  at  the  foot  of  this 
hill  is  the  beautiful  harbour  on  which  lies  the  city,  with  its 
117,200 inhabitants.  The  old  town  is  hounded  on  the  ^,})y  the 
rambla  (p.  xxxviii)  of  tiie  Quadalmedina  (Arah.  'townHriver^),  which 


aUwMon.  MALAGA.  37.  Route.   323 

often  oTerfiows  ite  banks  after  rain  and  canies  auoti  enormous  masses 
of  debris  into  the  sea,  that  the  Arab  wharves  and  the  Puerta  del 
Mar,  formerly  situated  on  the  beaoh,  now  lie  considerably  to  the 
N.  of  it  and  In  the  heart  of  the  city.  On  the  right  bank  of  the 
nmbla,  which  is  spanned  by  three  bridges,  are  the  suburbs  of 
Pcrc&ef,  Huelm^  and  Trinidad^  while  to  the  N.  of  the  old  town  lie 
the  new  Barrio$  (suburbs)  de  Capuchino$  and  de  la  Victoria,  The 
Barrio  de  la  Malagueta  Is  a  sixth  suburb,  springing  up  on  the  sand- 
banka  to  the  £.  of  the  harbour;  and  still  farther  to  the  £.  are  the 
two  charming  residential  suburbs  of  La  CcUeta  and  Limonar,  the 
one  lying  on  the  S.  slopes  of  the  Cerro  Colorado,  the  other  nestling 
in  a  side-valley  traversed  by  the  rambla  of  th«  Limonar, 

The  heights  to  the  E.  of  the  city  were  formerly  celebrated  for 
their  wine,  but  have  been  laid  entirely  waste  by  the  ravages  of  the 
phylloxera.  The  fruitful  Vboa  or  Hota  db  Malaga  lies  wholly  to 
the  W.  of  the  city  and  forms  the  delta  of  the  Guadalhoice  (p.  321), 
of  whlob  Malaga  may  be  regarded  as  the  port.  The  luxuriance  of 
the  vegetation  exceeds  all  expectation.  Oranges,  figs,  sugar  cane, 
and  cotton  all  thrive  here,  the  figs  ripening  as  early  as  June.  Among 
the  other  lavish  products  of  the  soil  are  melons,  almonds,  pome- 
granates, sweet  potatoes  (batatas),  prickly  pears  (higochumboa), 
olives,  ehirimoyes  or  custard-apples  (Anona  ekerimolia),  and  Japan- 
ese medlars  (Photinia  japonica).  During  Aug.  and  Sept.,  particul- 
arly in  the  latter  month,  the  export  of  these  fruits  is  very  large.  — 
Wine  Qsowino  Is  now  practically  confined  to  the  Axarquia  (p.  321), 
to  the  N.W.  of  the  city,  and  to  the  Montea  de  Malaga  and  de  Col" 
menar  (p.  328),  to  the  N.E.  Even  In  the  time  of  the  Moors  the  fame 
of  the  Shardb  al-Malaki  rivaUed  that  of  the  ZebM  of  Seville;  at 
present  the  Muscatel  wines,  the  Dulce  and  the  Ldgrimaa,  are  most 
highly  esteemed.  The  raisins  (pasas)  of  Malaga  are  as  fine  as  those 
of  Almerfa.  The  vintage  begins  before  Sept.,  but  the  shipment  of 
the  crops  Is  not  concluded  until  December.  —  The  market  of  Malaga 
Is  also  well  supplied  with  Fish,  the  favourite  varieties  being  the 
boquerones,  peteadai,  salmoneUi,  and  ealamares.  The  oysters  are 
not  so  good. 

The  natural  advantages  of  Malaga  are  supplemented  by  a  busy 
and  steadily  growing  Indust&t.  The  numerous  mills  and  factories 
for  the  production  of  sugar,  iron,  cotton ,  and  other  goods  afford  a 
spectacle  that  is  rare  indeed  in  Andalusia.  Among  the  best-known 
establishments  are  the  Laarioa  Cotton  MilU  (Fdbrica  de  Algodonesjf 
at  the  Barrio  de  Huelin,  and  the  Heredia  Sugar  Refinery  (p.  328). 
Almost  all  the  manufactories  are  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Guadal- 
medlna,  and  their  smoke  seldom  Invades  the  old  town  on  the 
opposite  bank. 

A  vigorous  effort  has  been  made  of  recent  years  to  ^boom'  Ma- 
laga as  a  WiNTBB  BssoBT,  but  its  success  is  seriously  hindered  by 
the  dirt  of  the  streets  and  by  the  inefficiency  of  the  drainage 

21* 


324   Routed?.  MALAGA.  mtttrry. 

system.  The  annn&l  death-rate  Is  jnst  under  40  per  1000.  The  lack 
of  dnst-ftee  pTomenades  is  also  mneh  felt.  Such  patients  as  are 
willing  to  brave  these  evils  should  take  up  their  abode  in  the  Tilla 
quarters  of  Galeta  and  Limonar.  —  Malaga  draws  a  supply  of  ex- 
cellent Watbb  from  a  mountain- torrent  near  Torremollnos  (p.  321), 
but  the  amount  is  no  longer  adequate  to  the  needs  of  the  growing  city. 

The  CuMATB  (comp.  p.  xxxi)  is  notable  for  its  equability  and 
mildness.  The  summers  are  cooler  than  in  the  interior  of  the  penin- 
iaula,  while  the  winters,  with  occasional  exceptions,  are  dry.  Snow 
and  frost  are  extremely  rare.  —  The  local  wind  generally  follows 
the  course  of  the  sun.  The  Vendahal^  or  S.W.  wind,  is  damp  and  cold 
in  winter  J  in  summer,  when  it  is  known  as  Ltvecht  or  BrUa  del  Sur, 
it  is  reftreshingly  cool.  The  Levan*erOj  or  E.  wind,  is  always  laden 
with  moisture.  The  only  dreaded  wind  is  the  dry  Terral,  a  kind  of 
mistral,  which  descends  from  the  Sierra  de  Abdalajis  through  the 
Hoyo  (p.  3ti0}  N.W.),  bringing  with  it  the  summer-heat  of  the  cen- 
tral plateau,  while  in  winter  it  is  icily  cold.  Invalids  have  to  keep 
their  rooms  when  the  Terral  blows  in  winter. 

The  Histmry  of  Malaga,  the  Malaea  of  the  aneients,  bpgins  with  the 
Phodnicians,  who  probably  named  it  from  the  word  malae  Cto  salt'),  be- 
cause it  was  a  depot  for  v^alt-flsh.  Strabo  says  of  it  ^multumque  tM  con- 
ficetur  sal»amenti\  The  town  retained  its  Punic  character  CMalaea  tnagin 
ad  FanicM  formam  aecedW)^  even  after  it  had  been  made  a  Roman  muni- 
cipium  by  Scipio.  A  bronze  tablet  in  the  Villa  La  Concepcion  (p.  328) 
records  its  municipal  organization  under  Domitian.  In  571  the  Visigothic 
King  LeovigUd  wrested  Malrga  from  the  Byzantines.  The  Arabs,  who  crn- 
qoered  it  in  711,  assigned  the  district  ('riO<^*)  to  the  Khvnd  at  Jordan 
(^dwellers  to  the  E.  of  the  Jordan').  They  deemed  it  an  earthly  Paradiae, 
and  Al-Makkari^  Edrtsi^  Thn  BatCta,  and  Ibn  al-Khatih  vie  with  one  another 
in  e^ctolling  its  advantages.  From  the  middle  of  the  13th  cent,  onward, 
Malaga  and  AJmerfa  (p.  299)  were  the  two  chief  seaports  of  the  kingdom 
of  Granada  (p.  ii35). 

The  glories  of  the  city  were  suddenly  eclipsed  on  its  capture  by  Fer- 
dinand and  Isabella  in  1487,  and  it  soon  sank  into  utter  insignificance. 
Its  coat-of-arms  under  the  Christians  represented  the  Moorish  Alcasaba 
and  the  Oibralfaro,  with  the  tutelars  San  Ciriaeo  and  Santa  Patita,  but- 
rounded  by  a  border  of  bows  and  arrows.  In  the  middle  is  Ferdinand's 
motto:  tanto  monta.  —  The  French  General  Sebastiani  sacked  the  town 
in  1810.  In  recent  times  Malaga  has  always  been  on  the  side  of  the  Opposi- 
tion and  has  revelled  in  *pronunciamentos\  such  as  that  in  favour  of 
Espartero  in  1843,  that  against  Isabella  II.  in  1888,  and  that  in  favour  of 
the  Republic  in  1873. 

From  the  railway-station  (PI.  A,  5)  we  reach  the  old  town  by 
crossing  the  Puente  de  Tetuan  fPl.  B,  4),  a  handsome  iron  bridge. 
This  leads  to  the  ^Paseo  de  la  Alameda  (PI.  B,  G,  4),  a  promenade 
1/4  M.  long  and  135  ft.  wide,  planted  with  plane-trees  and  surround- 
ed by  well-built  private  houses  and  hotels.  Glimpses  of  the  sea  are 
obtained  through  the  side-streets  to  the  S.  The  *Fuen1e  de  Tfeptuno^ 
a  charming  marble  fountain  at  the  E.  end  of  the  Alameda,  was  prob- 
ably made  in  Genoa  in  1560  at  the  order  of  the  city  of  Malaga. 
According  to  another  tradition,  it  was  originally  intended  for  the 
palace  of  Charles  V.  at  Granada  (p.  364),  was  captured  at  sea  by  the 
corsair  Barbarossa,  and  recaptured  by  Bernardino  de  Mendoza. 


Catkedral.  MALAGA.  37.  RouU,   325 

A  few  yards  to  hhe  S.£.  of  the  AUmeda  lies  tke  Harbour  {Puerto  ^ 
PU  C,  D,  4|  6),  to  the  N.  of  which  stands  the  cathedral  (see  below), 
only  in  part  concealei  hy  the  low  huUdings  round  it.  while  farther 
to  the  £.  rise  the  Alcazilba  and  the  Gibralfaro  (p.  327).  On  the  wide 
and  animated  Gojeltina  del  Mubllb  (PI.  C,  D,  i,  3)  stands  the  Adth- 
ana  (custom-house;  PI.  D,  3),  built  by  Charles  111.  at  the  end  of 
the  18th  century.  Below  this  street,  to  the  right,  are  the  preparations 
for  a  prolongation  of  the  Alameda  and  the  laying  out  of  other  new 
streets.  On  the  W.  side  of  the  harbour  is  a  wide  new  quay.  On  the 
lang  mole  projecting  into  the  sea  on  the  £.  (1588)  are  the  Pasco  de 
la  Farol'jf  the  Faro  or  Lighthouse  (PI.  D,  5),  and  the  Baterfa  de  San 
Nicolas.  The  mole  affords  fine  views.  Towards  the  S.  the  harbour 
was  long  open,  but  it  is  now  protected  on  this  side  by  two  smaller 
moles.  —  From  the  harbour  to  Calda  and  Palo^  see  p.  328. 

From  the  Alameda  the  short  Calle  de  Torre  Gorda  leads  to  the 
N.W.,  past  the  Tcatro  Circo  de  Lara  (p.  322),  to  the  Calle  de 
Atarazanas.  Here  stands  the  Meroado  (PI.  B,  C,  4),  the  ancient 
Ataraxana  (Arab.  Ddr  as-San'a,  arsenal,  workshop),  originally  a 
Moorish  wharf.  The  only  relic  of  the  old  building  is  the  principal 
entrance,  with  its  horseshoe  arches,  two  shields,  and  the  motto  of 
the  Nasrides  (see  p.  360) :  *there  is  no  conqueror  save  God'.  The 
market  is  seen  at  its  best  in  the  morning. 

A  little  to  the  £.  the  Alameda  is  quitted  by  the  two  chief 
business-streets  of  the  city:  the  old  Puerta  del  Mab,  continued 
by  the  Calls  Nueya,  and  the  new  and  handsome  Calls  del  Mab- 
QU^  DB  Labios  (PI.  C,  4,  3).  The  latter,  with  its  hotels  and  caf<^s, 
is  also  a  fayourite  resort  of  the  fashionable  and  leisured  classes.  — 
Both  streets  end  on  the  N.  at  the  Plaza  de  la  Coxstitucion  (Pi. 
C,  3 ;  formerly  Plaza  Maydr),  which  is  adorned  by  a  fine  Fountain^ 
with  three  figures  emblematical  of  the  prosperity  of  Malaga. 

The  quarter  extending  to  the  N.  of  the  Plaza  de  la  Constituoi6n 
as  far  as  the  Calle  de  Torrijos  consists  of  a  labyrinth  of  narrow  and 
dirty  streets.  The  stranger  should  therefore  turn  to  the  N.E.  and 
follow  the  Calle  de  Gbanada  (PI.  C,  D,  3),  another  important 
business -thoroughfare.  Where  it  touches  the  Plaza  del  Siglo  we 
turn  to  the  S.  (right)  and  enter  the  Calle  de  Molina  Lario,  in  which 
stand  the  PaUicio  Obispal  and  the  cathedral. 

The  ^Cathedral  (PI.  C,  D,  3 ;  open  7-11  and  3-4.30,  in  summer 
4-5.30),  an  imposing  building,  unfortunately  masked  by  additions 
at  its  £.  end,  occupies  the  site  of  a  Moorish  mosque,  which  was 
converted  in  1487  into  the  Gothic  Church  of  the  Incarnation.  The 
plan  of  the  present  edifice,  which  is  built  entirely  of  white  lime- 
stone, was  probably  due  to  Diego  de  Siloe  and  was  approved  by  the 
chapter  in  1538.  The  building  progressed  but  slowly,  but  the  arms 
of  Philip  II.  and  Mary  of  England  (1554)  are  found  inside  it.  In 
1680  it  was  partly  destroyed  by  an  earthquake,  but  in  1719  the 
work  was  resumed  with  greater  energy.   The  end  of  the  18th  cent,, 


326  Route  37.  MALAGA.  Cathedral. 

ho^erer,  found  It  still  utiflnlBhed.  The  long  period  oyct  which  the 
Imllding  was  spread  accounts  for  the  architectural  inconsistencies 
and  the  deviations  from  the  original  plateresqne  design. 

The  main  or  W.  facade,  flanked  "bj  two  projecting  towers,  is 
tamed  towards  the  Plaza  del  Obispo  and  rises  in  two  stages,  artic- 
ulated hy  Oorinthian  columns.  The  three  portals  are  approached 
by  a  flight  of  15  marble  steps.  To  these  portals  correspond  the 
round-headed  windows  in  the  second  story,  the  upper  row  of  which 
is  flanked  by  two  circular  openings.  The  N.  tower  (280  ft.  highj 
has  a  third  stage  with  Corinthian  columns,  surmounted  by  an  octagon 
with  a  dome  and  lantern.  The  S.  tower  has  not  been  carried  beyond 
the  second  story,  though  traces  of  an  intention  to  erect  a  third  are 
seen  here  as  well  as  on  the  central  part  of  the  fagade.  —  The 
Puerta  de  las  CadenaSj  in  the  N.  transept,  and  the  ^eria  del  Sol, 
in  the  S.  transept,  are  also  flanked  with  towers. 

Tbe  Interior  is  875  ft.  long,  24fift.  wide,  and  190ft.  high;  it  consists 
of  nave,  aisles,  two  rows  of  side-chapels,  coro,  transept,  and  ambulatory, 
and  is  distinguished  hy  its  adry  and  yet  massive  proportions.  Two  rows 
of  pillars,  placed  one  above  another,  support  the  round  arches  of  the  rosette- 
studded  vaulting;  the  lower  pillars, '  with  their  Corinthian  pilasters,  re- 
semble those  of  Qranada.  —  The  round-headed  Windows  are  arranged  in 
vertical  groups  of  three;  the  uppermost  in  each  line  is  flanked  with  cir- 
cular openings.  —  The  Pavement  is  flagged  with  red  and  white  marhle. 

The  Cafilla  Mayos,  designed  by  Alomo  Cano^  is  formed  by  a  semicircle 
of  16  isolated  pillars.  The  handsome  altar,  in  the  form  of  a  four-sided 
temple  with  a  dome,  is  modern.  The  five  scenes  from  the  Passion  are 
by  Citar  de  Arbacia  (1560).  The  SilleHa  del  Coro  (1592-1631)  is  an  &d- 
mirahle  work  by  Vergara  the  Townger  and  Diat  de  Patadw.  The  seats 
were  executed  in  1668  from  designs  by  LtUe  Orlit  and  Oiiueppe  MieheU, 
The  numerous  carved-wood  *Figures,  mainly  statues  of  saints,  are  by 
Pedro  de  Mena  (p.  Ix). 

The  16  Chapels  contain  nothing  of  much  importance.  In  the  CapiUa 
del  RomHc  (drd  in  the  right  aisle)  is  the  Madonna  of  the  rosary,  with 
six  saints,  a  large  picture  by  Aloneo  Cano.  In  the  CapiUa  de  la  Comeepeidn 
(4th)  is  a  Conception  after  Murillo.  The  CapiUa  de  lot  Repet  (Ist  in  the 
ambulatory)  contains  the  Beheading  of  St.  Paul,  a  huge  painting  by 
JSnrique  Simonet  (188^.  By  the  altar  are  kneeling  figures  of  the  ^Catholic 
Kings'  and  tiie  image  of  the  Virgin,  which  they  are  said  to  have  con- 
stantly carried  with  them  during  their  campaigns.  In  the  next  chapel, 
that  of  San  P'randeco^  are  the  tombs  of  two  bishops  and  a  Pietk  ascribed 
to  Morale*.  The  CapiUa  de  la  Encamacidn  contains  a  handsome  marble 
altar  by  Juan  de  Vilkuuieva. 

The  *ViEW  from  the  X.  tower  is  more  picturesque  than  that  from 
the  Gibralfaro  (p.  327),  though  not  so  extensive. 

To  the  N.W.  of  the  cathedral  lies  the  Saghabio,  the  garden  of 
which  is  open  to  the  public.  The  rich  Gothic  portal  on  its  K.  side 
is  the  only  vestige  of  the  original  cathedral.  —  Opposite  stands  the 
Hospital  de  Santo  Tomd$.  founded  in  1505,  destroyed  by  an  earth- 
quake in  1884,  and  rebuilt  in  the  Moorish  style  in  1889-91.  To  the 
E.  of  it  is  the  Post  and  TeUgraph  Office  (PI.  D,  8). 

The  Calls  ds  San  Agustix,  passing  the  Casa  de  AyurOamierao 

(PI.  D,  3),  takes  us  back  to  the  Oalle  de  Granada  (p.  326).    At  the 

£.  end  of  the  latter  street,  to  the  right,  lies  the  church  of  Santiago 

I  Mayor  (PI.  D,  3),  erected  in  1490  on  the  site  of  a  mosque.  The 


Gihralfaro.  MALAGA.  37.  RouU,   327 

KHTer  part  of  the  tower  belonged  to  the  Moorish  building.  —  The 
0«ll6  de  Orsnada  ends  at  the  spacions  Plaza,  db  RnsGo  (PI.  D,  2,  3 ; 
p.  437),  in  tb6  pretty  grounds  of  whioh  is  a  monument  to  General 
Joei  Metria  Torrijof  and  his  49  adherents,  shot  in  Malaga  on  Dec. 
ilth,  1681,  for  their  uprising  in  favour  of  the  Oonstitution  (^eon- 
Btitueidn  6  moeEte' !).  On  an  obtiisk  are  insoribed  the  names  of  the 
'Tfetimat*  and  some  appropriate  verses.  —  The  Oalle  de  la  Victoria, 
running  heaee  to  the  N.E.,  has  its  name  firom  the  churoh  of  El 
CrUto  de  la  Vietorieh,  which  marks  the  spot  where  the  tent  of  Fer- 
dittsnd  the  GathoHe  stood  during  the  siege  of  the  town  in  1487. 
It  ends  at  the  Plaza  de  la  Victoria  (PI.  D,  E,  2),  whence  the  Ca- 
tmim»  Nuevo  leads  to  the  £.  (see  p.  328). 

Those  who  do  not  shrink  from  dirty  streets  and  swarms  of  beg- 
ging children  may  ascend  from  the  Plaza  de  Riego  to  the  S.E., 
through  the  miserable  Oalle  del  Mundo  Nuevo,  to  the  Coraeha 
(Heathern  bag'),  or  saddle  between  the  Gihralfaro  and  its  S.W. 
spur,  the  AlcasikbA  (PI.  D,  3).  This  hill-town,  which  was  connected 
by  double  walls  with  the  Gihralfaro,  was  doubtless  the  site  of  the 
earliest  PhoBnician  settlement.  Under  the  Moors  (13-1 5th  cent.) 
the  Alcazaba  was  half  palace  and  half  citadel.  Among  the  scanty 
relics  of  its  bnildings  are  the  Arco  de  CristOy  to  the  S.W.,  above 
the  Aduana  (p.  325),  and  the  Torre  de  Vela^  on  which  Pedro  de 
Toledo  planted  the  Christian  standard  on  Aug.  18th,  1487.  It  now 
forms  a  confusing  medley  of  houses,  ruins,  and  gipsy-huts. 

The  •OibraKaro  (PI.  E,  2,  3 ;  560  ft,),  the  name  of  which  is 
derived  from  djehel  (hill')  aji^  pharos  (lighthouse),  has  always  been  - 
the  true  acropolis  of  Malaga.  The  ascent  from  the  Coraeha  (see 
above)  is  comparatively  easy.  The  buildings  on  the  top  date  origin- 
ally from  the  13th  century.  Visitors  are  not  admitted  without  an 
order  from  the  Gobernador,  but  a  walk  round  the  enclosing  wall, 
v^rhich  follows  the  sinuosities  of  the  ground,  affords  a  series  of  charm- 
ing views.  Under  favourable  atmospheric  conditions  the  Sierra 
Bullones  (p.  380),  near  Ceuta,  in  Africa,  may  be  distinguished.  — 
From  the  Gihralfaro  we  may  climb  down  to  the  E.  to  the  depression 
between  the  castle  and  the  Cerro  Colorado  (Pt  F,  2),  and  thence 
descend-  tO'  the  S.E.,  finally  along  an  uttflnlshed  foad  bordered 
with  eucalyptus-trees,  to  the  Camino  Nuevo  (p.  328).  It  is,  how- 
ever, preferable  to  return  to  the  Coraeha  and  descend  thence  to  the 
£.,  above  the  barracks,  to  the  Barrio  de  la  Malagueta.  Here,  to  the 
right,  near  the  N.E.  angle  of  the  harbour  (p.  325),  stands  the  Hos- 
pital VJcible  (P),  E,  8),  erected  for  aged  seamen  by  Dr.  Noble,  an 
English  physician.  Behind  it  is  the  Bull  Ring  (p.  322). 

The  Avenlda  de  Pritt^  an  attractive  promenade,  leads  hence  to 
«he  B.  to  the  *0«m^]iterio  Ingl^  (PI.  F,  8;  generally  open),  the 
butfal-plaiee  of  the  English  and  other  Ptotestants  who  die  in  Malaga. 
By  the  m«in  Mtrance  is  tiie  monument  of  William  Mark,  the  British 
eonsvil,  who  obtained  permission  to  lay  out  the  cemetery  in  1880. 


328  BouU37.  MALAGA. 

Befoid  that  the  ProteaUnts  were  simply  laid  Id  the  «aad  of  the 
be&eh,  -where  the  bodies  were  often  nnoovered  by  the  Mtlon  of  the 
wind  and  waves.  The  grounds  are  well-kept  and  brightened  by 
flowers.  Most  of  the  graves  are  adorned  with  shells.  The  views  are 
flue.  A  tastefal  little  English  Church  was  built  here  in  1891. 

By  the  cemetery  begins  the  viUa-suburb  of  Oaleta  (PI.  F,  O,  3 ; 
tramway,  see  p.  322),  with  its  beautiful  gardens.  At  its  £.  end  is 
the  Caf€^Re$taurant  ffemdn  CortSs  (PI.  O,  3),  a  favourite  resort  in 
fine  weather.  The  Camino  Nuevo  diverges  here  to  the  left,  and  leads 
round  the  N.  slope  of  the  Oerro  Colorado  and  Qibralfaro  to  the  Plaza 
de  la  Victoria  (p.  827).  A  few  yards  farther  on  is  another  road, 
ascending  the  valley  of  the  Limonar  (PL  G,  1, 2),  which  cont4ins 
another  villa-settlement. 

Exonrsiont.  The  •High  Road,  affording  beautlfal  rlews,  leads  from 
the  Oafe  Hernan  Cortes  to  tbe  £.,  pasaing  a  number  of  pleasant  oountry 
dwellings,  to  (2  M.)  the  fi8hi9g-village  of  Palo,  the  terminus  of  the  tram- 
way. Hence  it  runs  on,  keeping  close  to  the  sea  and  passing  many  sugar 
plantations,  to  (27»/2  M.)  ViUt-Mdlaga  and  (33  M.)  Tcrritx.  From  Torrox 
to  MoirU  (p.  349),  60  M.  from  Malaga,  the  road  is  very  rough.  —  The 
ascent  of  the  Cerro  d$  San  AnUmio  ia  worth  making  for  the  sake  of  the 
extensive  view,  which  in  clear  weather  embraces  the  African  coast  to 
the  S.E.  The  path  diverges  to  the  left,  jnst  before  we  reach  Palo  (see 
above),  and  ascends  along  the  bed  of  the  brook  Jdb<mero  to  (1  hr.)  the 
Haeiinda  de  CanaUt^  whence  the  top  is  easily  reached. 

Another  fine  road  (views)  leads  from  Malaga  to  the  K.E.,  passing  the 
FuenU  de  la  Reina,  to  (18  .M.)  Oolmenar,  the  centre  of  the  Jfvntes  de  Coi- 
menar^  the  rich  argillaeeous  soil  of  which  makea  the  district  a  fine  wine 
country.  —  To  the  K.  of  the  old  town  of  Malaga  is  a  road  ascending 
along  the  Guadalmedina  to  (2M.)  the  Hacienda  de  San  Joad,  the  property 
'  of  Don  Tom^s  Heredia  (cards  of  admission  obtained  at  Alameda  28),  and 
to  '^La  Gonoepcion,  the  villa  of  the  Marqu^  de  Gasa  loring  (tiokets  at 
the  Gasa  Loring,  Hoyo  de  Esparteroj  Fl.  B,  4).  The  beautiful  grounds 
of  these  two  villas  are  well  worth  a  visit;  the  park  of  La  Concepcidn  also 
contains  some  Roman  antiquities  from  Cartama,  Osuna,  etc.  —  Among 
the  points  most  worth  visiting  in  the  vega  to  the  W.  of  Malaga  are  the 
TecUinoty  on  the  way  to  Antsquera;  the  Buen  Retiro,  with  its  dilapidated 
fountains}  and  C6M.)  La  Cofuula^  in  Ghurriana.  From  the  last  we  may 
proceed  to  the  8.  to  Torremolinos  (see  p.  821).  —  Excursion  to  Cdrttmna 
and  Ahra,  see  p.  320. 

38.  From  Bobitdilla  (Cordova)  to  Granada. 

77  M.  Railwat  (three  trains  daily)  in  8»^-7V2  hrs.-,  fares  17  p.  70, 
14  p.  15,  10  p.  65  c.  (from  Cm-dova^  163  M.^  in  8-10  hrs. ;  fares  88  p.  40,  25  p. 
95,  17  p.  80  c).  The  trains  are  often  much  behind  time.  —  Kailway-re« 
staurant  at  BobadiUa. 

Bohadilla,  see  p.  320.  —  The  train  at  first  runs  to  tbe  £.  up  the 
broad  and  well-watered  valley  of  tbe  GuadaUiorce,  2  M.  Apeadero, 
To  the  right  appear  the  summits  of  the  Sierra  de  Abdalajis, 

10  M.  Ajtteqnera  (1345  ft.;  Fonda  de  la  OMtena;  Fonda.de 
Europa\  the  Roman  Anticaria,  is  piotuxeaqn^ly  situated  at  the  base 
of  the  Sierra  de  lo$  TorcaleA,  Most  of  its  25,000  inbab.  are  tillen 
of  the  soil,  but  there  are  a  few  palaces  bearing  the  arms  9f  a  decayed 


ARCHIDONA.  $8.  BouU.  329 

ikMrnse,  Fnm  the  Aluneda,  in  the  lewei  town,  we  aseend  through 
tlie  Galle  Real  and  up  the  flight  of  steps  called  the  ^Cuesta  de  la 
Imagen',  to  the  ruins  of  a  Moorish  CaatU^  whioh  the  Regent  Fer- 
dinand, ^£1  Infante  de  Antequera^  captured  in  1410.  The  Torre 
Mochoj  or  main  tower  (view),  is  popularly  known  as  the  Papa  BtUo^ 
tat  (^acorns'),  because  its  oonstruction  is  said  to  have  absorbed  the 
entire  sum  received  for  a  grove  of  evergreen  oaks  (encinat).  In  the 
Plaza  Alta,  halfway  up  the  hill,  stands  the  Arco  de  Hercules  or  de  los 
OiganteSf  with  Roman  inscriptions  from  Auticaria  (^AtUequera  la 
Vieja^Jj  which  was  used  as  a  quarry  by  the  builders  of  the  16th 
century.  —  The  ^colegiat^'  of  Santa  Maria  contains  a  gilded  altar 
of  the  14th  century.  On  the  dome  of  San  Sehastidn  stands  a  coloss- 
sal,  armour-clad  angel  in  bronze-gilt,  wearing  round  his  neck  a 
reliquary  with  the  remains  of  St.  Euphemia,  the  tutelar  of  the  city. 
The  CHteva  de  Mengal,  discovered  in  1842, 1/2  ^'  ^o  the  £.  of  the 
town,  is  one  of  the  largest  chambered  cairns  in  Spain  (65  ft.  deep.) 
One  of  the  greatest  curiosities  near  Antequera  is  El  Toroal*  a  labyrinth 
of  red  marble  rocks,  a  little  to  the  S. ,  on  the  road  to  Malaga.  This 
*8tone  foreat^  or  ^stooe  city'  resembles  that  at  Adersbach  in  Silesia,  but 
i«  on  a  more  exteosive  seale.  —  The  road  to  Malaga  (29  M.)  crosses  the 
paai  named  the  Portatgo  del  Puerto  0^215  ft. :  view)  or  the  Boca  del  Asno 
(^aas's  mouth^),  and  passes  the  CiteJsta  de  to  Jvatafua  CHill  of  the  Massacre*), 
where  Es-Zag^  (p.  336)  annihilated  a  Spanish  army  led  by  Gifueates  and 
Aguilar  in  i&B. 

As  we  proceed,  the  Ccrro  de  Vera  Cruz^  with  its  ermita,  is  seen 
to  the  right.  The  train  crosses  the  Guadalhorce  and  passes  the 
eonspicuous  Pena  de  los  Enamorados  or  Rock  of  the  Lovers,  the 
romantic  legend  of  which  has  been  told  by  Southey  in  his  'Laila 
and  Manuel'.  The  Spanish  knight  and  the  Moorish  maiden,  unable 
to  escape  their  pursuers,  threw  themselves  from  the  top  of  the  cliff, 
locked  in  each  other's  arms.  Beyond  (15  M.)  La  Pena  we  skirt 
the  N.  side  of  the  well-tilled  valley  of  Archidona. 

22V2  ^'  Archidona  is  the  station  for  tjie  town  of  that  name 
(6800  inhab.),  which  lies  on  a  hill  81/2  M.  to  the  S.  The  olive  is 
the  characteristic  tree  here.  Fine  retrospect  of  the  Pefia  de  los 
Enamorados  and  the  Sierra  de  los  Torcales. 

The  dreary  plateau  to  which  we  now  ascend  forms  the  watershed 
(2600  ft.)  between  the  Guadalhorce  and  the  Qenil  (p.  334)  and  the 
boundary  between  the  provinces  of  Malaga  and  Orandda. 

31  M.  Las  Salinas.  The  scenery  becomes  highly  interesting  as 
we  descend  to  the  *barranco'  (gorge)  of  the  Rio  Frio  and  cross  it  by 
a  bridge  390  ft.  long  and  203  ft.  high.  We  then  cross  the  Plinet^ 
obtaining  a  view  of  the  hills  to  the  S. ,  the  torrents  of  which  drive 
several  mills.  The  savage  landscape  shows  scarcely  a  trace  of 
human  presence.  We  cross  the  road  from  Loja  to  Malaga  and  also 
the  Frio.  Beyond  two  short  tunnels  we  reach  the  cultivated  valley 
of  the  Genii,  crossing  that  river  by  a  bridge  80  ft.  high.  To  t^- 
right  lies  Loja.    Beyond  a  third  tunnel  we  obtain  an  unexper 


2130   Bm^38.  LOJA.  From  Bobadilla 

and  most  imposing  yi»9f  of  the  wliite  peakg  of  the  /9<elTa  NtiJoS^ 
(to  the  B.).  —  Passengers  who  mean  to  walk  to  Lojamay  alight 
at  (84  M.)  San  Frandseo, 

341/2  M.  Iioja.  From  the  station,  on  the  N.  bank  of  the  Genii, 
a  road  crosses  an  iron  bridge  to  the  town  (Fof%da  de  la  Etperanza, 
Fonda  de  las  Angeles ,  both  poor) ,  which  is  pictnresqnely  situated 
on  the  S.  bank ,  at  the  foot  of  the  reddish-grey  hills  of  Periquetes. 
Loja,  the  Lacivis  of  the  Romans  and  the  Ldska  of  the  Moors,  ranked 
with  Alhama  (see  below)  as  one  of  the  two  *keys  of  Granada'.  In  1488 
it  was  captnred,  after  a  siege  of  30  days,  by  the  *Caj;hollc  Kings*, 
chiefly  through  the  aid  of  the  English  archers  under  Lord  Rivers. 
It  was  to  Loja  that  the  'Gran  Capitan*  (p.  809)  retired  when  he 
fell  into  disfavour.  The  town  has  now  11,900  inhab.,  but  it  cotitalns 
little  of  interest  except  the  remains  of  a  Moorish  Cattle ,  and  the 
churches  of  Santa  Maria  de  la  Sncamtfcitfn  and  San  Ga1)riel(imh.  cent.). 
Its  description  as  'flor  entre  espinas'  is,  doubtless ,  a  little  extra- 
vagant; but  perhaps  the  stranger  may  deem  it  worth  a  visit  for  the 
sake,  of  its  Moorish  character,  its  copious  springs,  the  rapids  of  the 
fish-abounding  Gentl  (^Los  Inftemos  deLoja'),  and  its  luscious  fruit. 

From  Loja  to  Alhama  (12Vz  M.).    The  road  crosses  the  Afanzanil^ 
which  forms  a  fine  watetfall  (visible  from  the  railway)  jxist  before  it 
joins  the  Oenil.    It  at  firgt  nms  to  the  E. ,   but  beyond  the  VerUa  del 
Pulgar  it  turns  to  the  S.E.  and  passes  8alar.  —  i2V2  ltt>  M^BaMxatk-ifarador 
de  San  Francuco^  Posada  de  lo*  CabaUerot,  both  very  primitive),  the  Asfigis 
JtUUntis   of  the   Romans  and  Al-Bdmmeh  of  the  llioors,   is  a  town  of 
7000  inhab. ,  largely  rebuilt  after  the  earthquake  of  1864.    It  is  situated 
even  more  picturesquely  than  Loja,  lying  on  a  rocky  temtee  of  the  Sierra 
de  Alhama.  high  above  the  little  river  Marchdu^  which  here  forms  a  deep 
HajV  (p.  370). .  The  Aqueduct  in  the  plaza  is  a  relic  of  the  Roman  period. 
The  capture  of  the  old  Moorish  fortress  on  Feb.  28th,  1482,  is  bewailed  in 
a  contemporary  Hiipano-Moresque  ballad  (Ay  de  mi  Athama),  wall-kBOwn 
to  English  readers  by  Byron's  translation,  beginning:  — 
The  Moorish  king  rides  up  and  down 
Through  Granada's  royal  town  •/ 
Frony  Elvira's  gates  to  those 
Of  Bivarrambla  on  he  goes. 
Woe  is  me,  Alhama! 

The  warm  Sulphur  Baths  of  Alhama  (iOT-113'*  Fahr.) ,  strongly  im- 
pregnated with  nitrogen,  lie  below -the  town,  on  the  March^n  (omnifouff) 
and  are  visited  from  April  20th  to  June  20th  and  from  Aug.  Idth  to  Oct. 
15th.  The  Betlio  de  la  Reina  is  in  the  form  of  a  Roman  Pantheon  and 
probably  of  Roman  origin.  The  Moorish  Balio  Fuerte  lies  near  the  spring 
and  is  considerably  warmer. 

Beyond  Loja  the  trsiin  tirayerses  a  hilly,  sandy  district;  the 
Gknil  and  its  vega  (p.  831)  lie  to  the  right.  641/2  M.  Huetot, 
We  cross  two  or  three  brooks  and  pass  through  a  cutting,  with 
glimpses  of  the  Sierra  Nevada.  —  56t/2  M.  Tocdn^  at  the  foot  of 
th«  Sierra  de  Prugo.  —  The  railway  approaches  (N.E.)  the  hiarren 
Sierra  de  Parapanda,  which  the  countryside  regards  as  a  batometeJf : 

Ouando  Parapanda  se  pone  la  montera, 

Lioeve  «aiiqii«  Diot  no  lo  qviera. 

(Wheu  ?arapanda's  brow  is  hid, 

It  rains,  though  God  himself  forbid.) 


to  Granada.  SANTA  Tt.  38.  Route.   331 

61  M.  niota^  a  town  of  3800  \nk$b. ,  tn  tke  Gfiarc6n,  with  a 
mined  CMUe ,  was  called  by  the  Moors  the  *£ye  of  Granada'.  To 
tbe  right  is  the  estate  of  Soto  de  Roma^  presented  by  the  Spanish 
gOTemment  to  the  Duke  of  Wellington;  —  67  M.  PinoB-Puente^ 
prettily  situated  on  the  Cuhillat ,  at  the  foot  of  the  bleak  Sierra  de 
EMra  (p.  306),  was  tbe  scene  of  a  battle  (1319)  between  the  Gaetil- 
ians  and  the  Moors  of  Granada,  in  which  the  former  wete  defeated, 
witb  the  loss  of  their  leaders,  the  Infantes  Pedro  and  Juan. 

It  was  at  PinoS'Puente  that  Oolcuiibiifl  was  overtaken  by  the  messesger 
of  Queen  Isabella  in  1492,  when  he  had  given  up  negotiations  with  the 
Spanish  nonarchs  in  despair  and  was  actually  on  his  way  to  France. 

The  train  now  halts  (in  summer  only)  at  the  station  for  the 
BuSios  de  Sierra  Elvira ^  with  their  warm  sulphur-springs  (75-85^ 
Fahr.),  which  lie  to  the  left,  at  tbe  base  of  the  mountains.  We  then 
enter  the  celebrated  Vega  of  OrarMda,  an  oasis  in  the  midst  of  the 
brown  and  arid  mountains.  This  was  once,  before  the  Genii  broke 
through  the  mountains  at  Loja  (p.  330),  an  oval  lake. 

71  M.  Atarfe  is  the  station  for  the  poor  little  toWn  of  Santa  76, 
which  lies  3  M.  to  the  S.W. ,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Genii.  Santa 
F^  was  constructed  by  Isabel  the  Catholic  during  the  siege  of 
Granada  (1491)  in  eighty  days ,  and  was  laid  out  in  the  form  of  a 
Boraaa  camp,  with  regular  streets  crossing  each  other  at  right  ang- 
les. The  capitulation  of  Granada ,  the  original  document  of  which 
is  at  Simancas  (p.  39),  was  signed  here  on  Nov.  2dth,  1491,  and 
on  the  i7th  April  following  the  epoch-making  contract  with  Col- 
umbus, respecting  his  voyage  of  discovery  to  America,  was  also 
signed  here.  Above  the  door  of  the  Church ,  which  was  restored  in 
1773,  is  a  trophy,  representing  a  lance  with  a  sheet  of  parchment, 
bearing  the  words  Ave  Maria.  This  refers  to  the  gallant  deed  of 
Berrum  Pirez  del  Pulgar  (see  p.  340)  and  to  the  subsequent  duel 
in  which  OareiUuo  de  la  Vega  slew  the  Moor  Zegri  Ta/rfe^  who 
brought  baok  tbe  parchment  to  the  Christian  camp  and  defied  its 
champions  to  single  combat. 

Near  Atarfe ,  though  some  authorities  think  the  site  of  the  present 
Oranada  more  likely ,  probal)ly  lay  the  ancient  Iberian  town  of  Eliberri^ 
tiie  JUberis  or  Munieipivm  Flerentinum  Jliberritanum  of  the  Romans.  In 
304  ^r  306  Uiberis  was  the  scene  of  tlie  first  great  church-council  held  on 
Spanish  soiL  It  was  probably  destroyed  on  the  Moorish  invasion,  as  its 
name  disappears  entirely  from  history.  —  In  1431  the  neighbourhood  of 
Atarfe  was  the  scene  of  an  important  battle  in  which  the  Gastilians 
under  Alvaro  de  Luna  (p.  137)  defeated  King  Mohammed  YUI.  of  Granada.. 
This  contest  is  known  as  the  Battle  of  Bigueruelay  because  the  tent  of 
King  John  II.  of  Castile  was  pitched  under  a  small  JSg-tree  (higturwla). 

As  we  proceed ,  we  have  a  ^ew  of  the  lofty  Albaicin  (p.  344) 
and  of  Granada,  with  the  Siena  Nevada  in  the  background. 
77  M.  Oranada^  see  below. 


332 


Onuiada  and  the  Alhambra. 


The  lUilway  Station  iEstaeuSn  del  Ferroearril;  PI.  B,  Q  lies  to  the 
K. W.  of  the  town ,  about  iVj  M.  from  the  hotels  in  the  Puerta  Be*l  and 
2  M.   from    those  near  the  Alhambra.    The  distributiun  of  the  luggage 

Generally  takes  some  time,  and  the  hotel-porter  may  be  left  to  look  after 
t.  The  HoM  Omnibutes  drive  off  without  waiting  for  it.  The  OnOUbw 
General  piles  to  the  Dtspaeho  Central  (p.  xvi),  in  th3  Paerta  Beal,  next 
door  to  the  Cafe  Suizo  (see  below). 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xx).  a.  ITear  the  Alhambra ,  in  the  cool  and  shady 
Alhambra  Park ,  about  1  H.  above  the  town:  *HdT£L  Roma  CSiOe  Su4io*" ; 
PI.  a,  F  2)  and  *HdTBL  Washimgtok  Ikying  (PI.  b  ^  F,  2),  belonging  to  the 
same  owner  (Sefior  Ortiz)  and  with  similar  prices,  pens.  i2Vt  p.,  omn.  2  p. 
Onggage  extra).  These  hotels  are  largely  frequented  by  British  and 
American  travellers  and  are  recommended  to  those  who  make  a  stay  of 
some  time,  especially  in  the  warm  season.  Both  are  clean,  and  the  serv- 
ice is  good.  —  h.  In  the  Town:  Hot.  Alamxda  (PI.  c^  F,  6),  in  an  airy 
situation  on  the  Carrera  de  Genii,  with  view  of  the  Bierra  Nevada,  pens, 
from  8  p.;  H5t.  Victoeia  (PI.  d;  E,  6),  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Pnet*ta 
Real,  frequented  by  commercial  travellers  and  tourists,  pens.  7Vt  p. ^ 
HdT.  DE  LA  Paz  (PI.  f ;  E,  6),  E.  side  of  the  Puerta  Real,  with  no  mountain- 
view,  unpretending.  —  Apartmente  may  be  procured  in  the  numerous  villas 
(cormenM,  Arabic  for  vineyards)  near  the  Alhambra  and  on  the  outskirts 
of  the  town.  Their  equipment  is  generally  very  primitive.  Carefully 
worded  written  contracts  are  desirable. 

Oafis  (comp.  p.  xxii).  Ca/4  ColiSm^  Calle  de  Mendez  Nunesi  0,  M  Pmaje^ 
at  the  corner  of  the  Galles  de  Mendez  Kunez  and  Zacatinj  (7.  Suieo^ 
Paerta  Real}  C,  de  la  Alameda^  opposite  the  hotel  of  that  name:  C.  de 
E»paSia^  Plaza  Kueva;  the  last  three  somewhat  shabby.  —  Oonfeecioners 
(Pasteleria*).  La  Ferla^  Puerta  Real,  also  restaurant;  Lqs  Alpes^  Plaza  de 
Ayuntamiento ;  Lopez  Hermanoi^  Calle  de  Mesones.  •—  The  genuine  Granada 
Wine  is  the  nut-brown  Vino  Seco.  The  best  grapes  are  the  Santa  Paula, 
a  large  purple  variety  grown  at  the  Torres  Bermejas  (p.  3635  and 
elsewhere. 

Cabs  (few  in  number)  stand  in  the  Puerta  Real  and  the  Plaza  l^ueva. 
Fare  within  the  town,  per  drive  1,  per  hr.  2p. ^  with  two  horses,  2V2 
and  3  p.  In  each  cane  the  fare  to  the  Alhambra  is  2V2  p.  extra,  to  the 
Albaicin  (p.  344)  and  Sacro  Honte  (p.  343)  5  p.  extra. 

Saddle  Horses  from  Fernando^  adjoining  the  Posada  del  Sol,  Calle  de 
la  Alhdndiga;  6  p.  per  day.  —  Cycles  may  be  hired  at  the  end  of  the  Carrera 
de  Genii,  to  the  right. 

Baths  (Boilotk  Calle  de  los  Mesones.  Cold  Baths  (JMIos  de  Aee^uia, 
of  water  from  the  (ienil),  in  the  Paseo  del  Saldn  (PI.  G,  4 ;  in  summer  only). 

Bookseller.     Ventura  Sabatel^  Calle  de  los  Mesones  52. 

Photographs.  R.  Oarzon,  Calle  de  Gomerez  32  and  near  the  Alhambra; 
Ayolay  Calle  de  Gomerez  14. 

Post  Office  (Correo;  PI.  E,  4),  Calle  de  Mendez  ITunez.  Poste  restante 
letters  are  distributed  1  hr.  after  the  arrival  of  the  mail- trains.  —  Tele- 
graph  Office,  Plaza  de  la  Mariana  (PI.  F,  4.  6).  —  Diligence  Office  (for 
Jaen,  R.  34,  and  Motril,  p.  349),  on  the  17.  side  of  the  Puerta  Real. 

Theatres.  Teatro  Principal  (PI.  F,  b\  Plaza  de  la  Martana,  for  operas 
and  dramas;  Teatro  de  Isabel  la  Catdlict  (PI.  F,  4),  Plaza  de  los  Cunpos, 
for  operas  and  comedies.  —  Bull  Ring  (Plaza  de  Torot;  PI.  B,  C,  4),  to 
the  if.W.  of  the  Paseo  del  Triunfo;  corrida<<  in  spring  and  summer. 

Promenades*  The  Carrera  de  Genii  (p.  347)  is  the  fashionable  winter 
promenade  (4-6  p-  m.);  the  Paseo  del  Baldn  (p.  348)  and  Pateo  de  la  BonAo, 
(p.  348)  are  frequented  in  summer,  5-7  p.  m.  A  band  plays  on  Thurs.  and 
Sun. ,  at  3  p.  m.  in  winter  and  in  the  evening  in  summer.  The  Alameda 
de  Darro  (p.  343)  is  the  resort  of  the  lower  classes. 

Festivals.  On  Jan.  2nd,  the  anniversary  of  the  capture  of  Granada 
bT  Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  a  solemn  procession  makes  its  way,  about 
10  a.  m.,  to  the  Capilla  Real  (p.  840)  of  the  cathedral  and  to  the  l^ew  City 
Hall.    In  the  afternoon  the  girls  of  Granada  and  the  Vega  ascend  the 


Siiuation,  GRANADA.  39.  Route.   333 

Torre  ie  1b  Vel*  (p.  364)B«iweeii  8  snd  4  p.m.  ftnd  «oand  the  b«ll  in  order 
to  eecnre  a  biMbftnd.  The  founlainf  of  the  Albambr*  play  (eorrtn)  at  the 
same  time.  —  La  Fiuia  d'^l  Corpus  Oristi  is  celebrated  In  the  Bibarrambla 
(p.  337).  —  The  /tfrto  dt  Ban  MiguH  (Sept.  29tb)  assemble!  the  Grenc dines 
and  th«  'MoBtotinoa*  (from  tha  mountains  to  the  £.)  at  (h«  firmita  de  San 
Miguel  (p.  344).  —  The  annual  Ftria  or  Fair  takes  place  on  June  &-7th  in 
the  Paseo  del  Violdn  (p.  348).  —  All  these  festivals  have  of  late  lost  much 
of  thdr  interest  and  local  colour. 

IriftuOi  TiM-OMaol,  Cha9,  B.  B.  DatmkiU,  Buena  Vista  de  los  Mar- 
tires.  ->  Bagliah  Ghnrch  Bervioe  at  the  Washington  Irving  Hotel. 
Baakera:  Enrique  Santos;  Valtntin  Affrela. 
Ka«n  of  AdmiaaioB  to  tha  Ohiof  Bights:  — 
Alkambra  (p.  81^,  dally,  9-12  and  2-4.    Visitors  are  aecompanled  throogh- 
oat  by  the   attendants.     Artists  and  students  receive  tickets   'para 
estudiar'  on  application  at  the  office  of  M .  Contreras  (p.  363),  the  con- 
servator, between  1  and  2  p.m. 
OtnenOift  (f.  967),  open  all  day.    Tickets  (pnpeletas)  are  issued  free  in 

the  (3asa  de  los  Tiros  (p.  347). 
Cathedral  (p.  387),  open  all  day,  except  between  11  a.m.  and  2.30  p.m.;  the 
Captiks  Real  (p.  340)  either  before  High   Mass   (9  a.m.   in   summer, 
U)  a.m.  in  winter)  or  between  2.90  and  4  p.m.  (summer  9^5  p.m.). 
Some  of  t)  e  smaller  churches  are  closed  as  early  as  8.30  or  9  a.m.  \ 
in  this  case  application  may  be  made  to  the  sacristan.    The  other  sights 
are  usually  open  all  day,  but  ^12  and  2-6  will  be  found  the  surest  hours. 
The  Gariuja  (p.  346)  and  other  points  of  interest  to  the  K.  of  the  city  are 
most  conveniently  visited  by  carriage. 

Oaides,  superfluous  for  those  not  pressed  for  time,  may  be  obtained 
at  the  hotels  (fee  from  5  p.  per  day).  Almost  all  of  them  speak  English 
or  French.  The  vaiets  de  place  who  proffer  their  services  in  the  streets 
and  at  the  Albambra  should,  like  the  begging  tip^7  children,  be  as  far 
as  possible  ignored.  Strangers  should  not  enter  the  Albaicin,  especially 
towards  evening,  except  in  large  parties  or  under  the  protection  of  natives. 
As  to  gratuities,  see  p.  xxiv.  It  should  not  be  forgotten  that  Granada  is 
*a  hungry  town". 

Chief  Attraotlons  (two  days).  Akimeda  (p.  348)  and  Faseo  del  Baldn 
(p.  3i8)i  Bibarrambla  (p.  337);  Cathedral  (p.  337);  Zacatin  (p.  342);  Plata 
Nueva  (p.  342);  Alkambra  (p.  349);  Generali/e  (p.  867);  if  possible,  San 
mcolas  (p.  344)  or  the  Cartvja  (p.  346). 

QranAda  (2195  ft.),  a  city  of  65,100  inhab.,  the  capital  of  the 
famous  Moorish  kingdom  and  of  the  present  piorince  of  the  same 
name ,  the  seat  of  an  archbishop  and  of  a  university ,  is  very  pic- 
turesquely situated  at  the  base  of  two  mountain-spurs  (ca.  COO  ft. 
high),  which  ascend  gradually  from  W.  toE.  towards  the  Cerro  del 
8oL  The  northernmost  of  these  long-stretched  hills  is  the  Alhaicin 
(Arab.  Babad  el-bayydzln  ^  ^quarter  of  the  falconers') ,  the  oldest 
part  of  Granada  and  once  the  vaunted  seat  of  the  Moorish  aristo- 
cracy ;  it  now  forms  a  town  by  itself,  mainly  occupied  by  gipsies. 
The  Albaicin  is  separated  from  the  Alhamhra  Hill  to  the  S.  by  the 
deep  gorge  of  the  Darro  (the  Roman  ScUon,  and  Moorish  Hadarro'), 
a  stream  bearing  gold  in  its  sands  but  generally  drained  of  all  its 
water  for  irrigation-purposes  before  reaching  Granada.  The  Hill  of 
the  Alhambra,  the  acropolis  of  Granada,  is  itself  subdivided  into 
two  parallel  ridges  by  the  gorge  called  Assahica  by  the  Moors  and 
containing  the  Alameda  de  la  Alhamlra  (PI.  E,  F,  2,  3).  The  hill 
to  the  N.  of  this  gorge  is  the  Monte  de  la  Atsabica ,  or  Alhambra 
hill  proper,  while  to  the  S.  is  the  somewhat  lower  Monte  Mauror, 


334  Eot4t39.  GRANADA.  SUuatiof^, 

guarded  by  the  Torret  Bermejaa  (comp.  p.  352).  On  reacMng  the 
hill  of  the  Alhambra  the  Darro  changes  its  course  from  W.  to  S. 
and  unites  vith  the  much  larger  Oenil,  the  Singilis  of  the  Romaos 
and  the  Shtf^  or  8hind$kM  of  the  Moors,  a  true  Alpine  tonrent, 
fed  by  the  snows  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  hence  usually  more 
copious  in  summer  than  in  winter. 

Both  the  Albaiein  and  the  Alhambra  hills  were  occupied  by  the 
ancient  town  of  Oarnattdh ,  which  may  possibly  have  been  founded 
by  the  Iberians  themselves.  This  place ,  which  did  not  became  of 
any  importance  until  after  the  destruction  of  Elvira  (p.  306),  was 
taken  soon  after  711  by  the  Moors,  who  erected  cU-Kasaba  <il'kadhna 
(*the  old  citadeV)  on  the  Albaiein  and  then  extended  the  Torres 
Betmejat  and  alr-Kaiaha  aUdjedlda  (*the  new  citadel')  on  the  Al> 
hambra  hill. 

The  fall  of  the  various  smaller  Moorish  states  in  th^  Iberian 
Peninsula  brought  multitudes  of  new  inhabitants  to  Granada ,  the 
natural  mountain-fastness  of  S.  S^ain.  These  settled  not  only  in 
the  fprtiiied  towns  on  the  tops  of  the  hills  but  also  on  the  lower 
slopes.  In  this  way  arose  the  suburbs  of  ChurrOj  on  the  N.W. -slope 
of  the  Alcazaba;  Mauror^  the  district  of  the  water-carriers,  on  the 
W.  slope  of  the  Monte  Mauror;  and  Anteqiuruela  ('little  Ante- 
quera'),  at  the  S.  foot  of  the  same  hill,  so  named  because  occupied 
by  refugees  from  Antequera  (p.  328).  The  last  quarters  of  the  city 
to  be  settled  were  those  on  the  plain  to  the  S.  aiid  W, ,  which  soon 
extended  to  the  Puerta  de  Elvira  (p.  345)  and  gradually  came  to  be 
the  most  important  part  of  all.  The  gradual  expansion  of  Granada, 
which  is  said  to  have  contained  half-a-milixon  inhabitants  at  its 
conquest,  is  perspicuously  shown  on  the  plan  published  by  Rafael 
Contreras  (1872).  Under  Spanish  rule  the  city  soon  began  to  de- 
cline. The  decrees  of  the  'Catholic  Kings'  depopulated  it  rapidly,  and 
the  ravages  of  the  Inquisition  were  nowhere  more  violent. 

It  is  with  more  or  less  justice  that  the  modern  Granada  has  been 
described  as  a  'living  ruin'.  A  few  of  the  chief  streets  are  furbished 
up  to  a  certain  extent  for  the  eyes  of  the  visitor  from  foreign  parts; 
but  the  side-streets  are  full  of  fllth  and  decay,  and  some  of  the 
more  remote  are  not  even  lighted  at  night.  The  local  aristocracy 
prefers  to  spend  its  rents  in  Madrid.  A  large  proportion  of  the 
population  subsists  by  begging  alone.  It  is  still  questionable  whether 
the  hoped-for  results  will  ensue  from  the  opening  of  several  large 
beetroot-sugar  manufactories  and  the  improvement  of  the  mining 
industry  in  the  Sierra  Nevada.  When  all  is  said,  however,  Granada 
still  remains  as  the  culminating  point  of  a  journey  in  3paiu ,  not 
only  for  its  magnificent  views  of  the  great  snow-dad  mountains  to 
the  SJS.  but  also  for  the  glimpse  it  affords  of  the  past,  the  remains 
it  has  to  present  of  a  strange  and  exotic  culture  and  art. 

HUtory.  On  the  fall  of  the  caliphate  of  Cordova  in  1031  (see  p.  3C8), 
^dvi  ibn  Zfri,   the  viceroy  of  Granada     made  himself  independent  and 


Bi^Ufy,  ORANADA.  ^9.  Bxmte.  335 

fouMtod.  the  dynM«7  of  th»  Ar«<«.  Bddh,  the  third  of  tiw>  line,  exlesded 
liie  MihoritT  over  M al»ga.  Kino  'AbdattaA  ibn  BcUofvSn  wm  defeated  by 
ihe  Cid  (p.  36)  at  Gabra  in  1060,  and  in  1090  be  loat  bia  throne  to  the 
Aim9rMwi4u.  wbo  were  in  tarn  «upplanted  by  the  Almokadu  is  1149 
(eoap.  p.  809).  With  the  decline  of  the  Almohad  power  after  the  battle 
of  Laa  Kavas  da  Toloaa  (1212 •,  p.  a02)  new  revolts  took  place  among  the 
-viceroye  ol  the  Tarione  proTiacea.  From  among  theae  Ibn  S4d^  of  the 
Arab  lamUy  of  the  Uni  MUd,  and  Mv/immmed  An  Y4s%/  itm  etl-Ahmar,  of 
th«  iiibe  of  the  Btni  Natr^  aoon  emotged  aa  the  most  powerful  and  dia- 
puted  with  each  other  for  the  poaaeaaion  of  Andalnaia.  On  the  aasaaaination 
of  Ibn  Hdd  at  Almeria  (1238)  Al-Ahmar  eatabliahed  an  ezt^Ukve  kingdom, 
which  lBolad«d  Cta'anada,  Malaga,  and  Almevia.  He  fixed  hia  capital  at 
Jaen.  After  fit.  Ferdinand  had  conqujared  Cordova  (1236),  he  puahed 
forward  to  the  capture  of  Jaen  (1346),  while  at  the.  same  time  the  Ara- 
tfoaeae  deaeended  on  the  B.  ooast  of  Andalusia.  Al-Abmar  therefore 
deamed  it  prndent  to  make  peace  with  the  Castiliana,  acknowledged 
Feodiaand  aa  hia  auaerain,  and  even  lent  him  hia  aid  In  the  conquest  of 
Seville  (p.  815). 

The  DfoUif  of  |A«  Jfa»ridM»y  thus  established  by  Al-Ahmar  (Mo- 
hamnmd  /.;,  maaaged  to  maintain  itself  at  Oranada  for  nearly  250  years, 
partly  by  the  sword  and  partly  by  skilful  tackiag  between  the  contending 
parties  and  by  treaties  now  with  Casttle  and  now  with  Morocco.  Mo- 
hammed I.  offered  a  refage  in  Granada  to  the  Moors  expelled  from  Cor- 
dova, Valencia,  Jaen,  and  Seville;  he  foatered  trade  and  industry,  and 
constructed  fortiflcations,  roada,  and  aqueducts.  His  successors  followed 
iA  his  footsteps,  eapecially  Mohammed  II.  (1272-1800),  Ab^Cl-WaVid  Imam 
(1809-26),  rtbw/  /.,  sumamed  AbuU-JBacUdcU  (succeeded  1333;  murdered  at 
the  Alhambra  by  a  madman  in  1354),  and  Mohammed  V.  (1854-91).  To  these 
prudent  and  far-seeing  princes  of  Granada  is  mainly  due  tli^  brilliancy 
of  the  Moorish  civilisation  in  Spain  :  —  the  highly  developed  character  of 
its  agriculture  and  commerce,  its  encouragement  of  science,  its  perfection 
of  architecture  and  artistte  deooratioci  thai  eclipsed  even  that  of  the  old 
caliphate  of  Cordova,  Granada  became  the  wealthiest  city  in  the  peninsula ; 
and  its  court  was  frequented  by  the  most  eminent  Arabic  poets  and  bisto- 
riaos  of  the  period,  aueb  aa  Mohammed  ibn  al-KhaiH  Ibn  Khmld^n^  and  the 
great  gtographer  Ibn  Bal4ta. 

As  in  most  Moorish  states ,  the  downfall  of  Granada  was  occasioned 
by  internal  factions.  After  the  middle  of  the  15th  cent,  the  most  prominent 
noble  families  of  the  land  were  the  ZeyH  and  the  Bmi  S^rrddJ^  the  latter 
well-known  to  legend  as  the  Abmeerrage*.  King  Abu  Nasr  Sa'd  tried  to 
curb  the  overwhelming  power  of  the  Abencerragea  by  compassing  the 
death  of  their  head  8e<d  m*uf;  but  in  consequence  of  this  he  himself  lost 
his  throne  in  1462  to  his  son  MnUy  AbnUHatan  (d.  1486),  who  disinte- 
grated tttt  kiUfdom  by  resigning  Malaga  to  his  brother  Et-S^al  (^the 
strong'),  afterwards  Mohammed  XII,  Abu'l-Hasans  arst  wife  'Aisha  saw 
her  influence  with  her  husband  weakened  by  the  charms  of  a  young 
Spanish  slave,  lidbel  de  Sotfa,  who  embraced  Islam  under  the  name  of 
Zorayah  (^morning-star")  and  became  the  king's  favourite  wife.  'Aisha 
also  feared  that  the  right  of  succession  and  even  the  lives  of  her  sons, 
Mohammed  Abu  'Abdallah  CBodbdif)  and  YHtnf^  might  be  endangered. 
The  Zegris  supported  the  king  in  ttiis  matter,  but  the  Abencerragea 
sympathized  with  'Aisha,  and  some  of  them  seem  to  have  paid  for  their 
sympathy  with  their  lives.  The  'Catholic  Kings',  Ferdinand  and  Isabella, 
utilized  these  internal  dissensions  lo  further  the  great  aim  of  their  lives 
—  the  expulsion  of  the  last  Moor  from  Spanish  soil.  While  Abu'l-Hasan 
was  trying  to  win  back  the  town  of  Alh  am  a  (p.  830),  which  the  Christians 
had  captured  in  1483,  the  story  goes  that  'Aisba  lowered  herself  and  her 
sons  from  a  window  of  the  Torre  de  Comares  (p.  368)  and  fled  with  them, 
first  to  the  Albaicin  and  then  to  Guadix  (p.  299),  where  Boabdil  CBl  Eey 
Ghico')  was  at  once  proclaimed  king.  After  a  violent  struggle  Boabdu 
succeeded  in  dethroning  his  father,  who  retired  to  Malaga.  The  capture 
of  Boabdil  by  the  Spaniards  at  Lucena  (p.  807)  in  1483,  however,  com- 
pletely revolationiaed  the  situation.    He  submitted  to  a  restrictive  treaty 


336  Rmde39,  GRANADA.  Mweo  Ptavineial. 

and  remained  Beatral  while  Ferdinand  advaneed  to  the  siege  of  Malaca. 
In  tiine,  however,  Boahdirs  religious  and  patriotic  feelings  again  gained  the 
ascendancy  over  his  desire  for  revenge  and  personal  power,  and  in  1^6  he 
resigned  Granada  to  his  uncle  Ee-Zagdl^  who  had  succeeded  Abu'^l-Hasan 
a9  the  last  heroic  leader  of  the  Ifoors ,  and  contented  himself  with  the 
possession  of  Loja  (p.  390).  In  a  defence  of  this  place,  however,  he  again 
fell  into  the  hands  of  Ferdinand  and,  pledging  himself  onoe  more  to  neu- 
tralitv,  be  retamed  to  Oranada,  which  Ea-Zagal  had  qnitted  to  go  to  the 
relief  of  Malaga.  On  the  fall  of  Malaga,  Baza,  and  Almeria  (Ez>Zagal's 
last  reftige)  the  Spaniards  required  Boabdil  to  fulfil  his  com]pact  and 
evacuate  Granada.  Conscious  too  late  of  his  mistake,  he  rallied  him- 
self for  one  desperate  and  unavailing  effort  against  the  Spanish  power, 
but  he  was  forced  to  make  a  treaty  of  peace  in  1191  and  abandoned 
Granada  before  the  entry  of  the  ^Catholic  Kings'  (Jan.  2nd,  1492).  The 
unheroic  end  of  Boabdirs  story  has  been  enshrined  in  legend.  As  he  was 
crossing  the  Sierra  Kevada,  he  turned  on  the  spot  now  called  ^El  Ultimo 
Suspiro  del  Moro'  for  a  last  look  at  the  fair  city  he  had  lost.  Tears  filled 
his  eyes  as  he  gazed,  and  his  stem  and  resolute  mother  'Aisha  taunted 
him  wiih  the  words :  *Weep  not  like  a  woman  for  what  you  could  not 
defend  like  a  man.'  —  The  taking  of  Granada  was  a  subject  of  great 
rejocing  throughout  Christendom,  and  a  speoial  Te  Devm  was  sung  at 
St.  Paul's ,  London,  by  order  of  Henry  VII. 

There  was  crying  in  Granada  when  the  sun  was  going  down ; 
Some  calling  on  the  Trinity  —  some  calling  on  Ifahoun. 
Here  parsed  away  ihe  Koran  —  there  in  the  Cross  was  borne  — 
And  here  was  heard  the  Christian  bell  —  and  there  the  Moorif^h  horn ! 

{LockharVs  'Spanish  Ballads'). 
The  Arms  of  Granada  include  a  pomegranate  (granada)^  stalked  and 
proper.    The  supporters  are  the  pillars  of  Hercules;  ihe  motto  ia  plus  ultra. 


a.  The  City  of  Granada. 

Tlie  business-centre  of  Granada  is  the  Pubbta  Eeal  (Pi.  E,  5), 
a  square  named  after  a  former  gate.  The  Varro  flows  through  a 
vaulted  channel  below  it.  To  the  S,  it  is  prolonged  by  the  Carrera 
de  Oenil,  whence  the  Alameda  leads  to  the  Genii  -(^comp.  p.  347), 
The  narrow  Calle  de  los  Mesonea  (PI.  E,  6)  leads  to  the  N.  feom  the 
Puerta  Real  to  the  N.W.  quarters  of  the  inner  town  and  to  the  rail- 
way-station. —  The  short  Calle  de  los  Reyes  Cat61icos  runs  to  the 
N.E.  from  the  Puerta  Real  to  the  Plaza  db  Pbim  (Pl,  E,  6),  with 
the  new  Casa  de  AyuntamUnto,  in  which  the  Museo  FroTuieial  has 
been  housed  since  1889. 

The  collections,  which  are  sadly  neglected  an4  exhibited  in  unsuitable 
room.'',  include  a  few  Prehutoric  AntiquitieSy  Objectt  found  in  Jliberfs  (p.  331 ; 
Roman  amphorse,  tear-vessels,  coins),  a  Mooriih  Fountain^  two  golden 
Moorish  BraceUity  Arcib  Carpets  (Arab,  'al-khomra'),  and  Moorish  Jmcrip- 
Horn,  —  The  collection  of  pictures  affords  a  good  opportnnity  for  becoming 
acquainted  with  Juan  Sanchez  Cotdn  (1561 16^,  who  retired  to  the  convent 
of  Paular  (p.  122)  on  finishing  his  studies  at  Toledo  under  Bias  del  Prado 
and  afterwards  settled  at  Granada.  Ribera^  Zurharan^  AUmso  Cano.Bocaneffra., 
Felipe  Odmez  de  Valencia^  Juan  de  SevillOy  Pedro  de  Moi/a,  and  ether  old 
masters  are  also  represented  hrre.  The  most  notable  of  the  modern  pictures 
are  those  by  M.  Qdmes  Moreno  (Departure  of  the  Moors  from  Granada, 
St.  Juan  dePios  bearing  the  i^ick  from  a  burning  houre,  etc.)-  The  great 
treasure  of  the  museum  is,  however,  a  Triptyeh^  with  enamels  in  the 
Limoges  style  of  scenes  from  the  Passion,  in  six  sections.  This  fine  work, 
believed  to  have  been  made  in  Venice,  is  said  to  have  been  presented  by 
'El  Gran  Capitan*  (p.  847)  to  Isabella  the  Catholic.  The  original  frame 
is  lacking. 


C  11  I  t*  d  r  a  i  : 

2   Capiila  df^^an  MigoJti 

\    Ai iit  t  -  ife  Jp'SfLr  J\i 'azaj^rio 

G    i'Vjyy  HI  IS  Ut  Sun  la  Ana 

7  ■   San  SidaMi-cin 

&  -  San  Cecilio 

B  "  "  Sa^t^ft  T^f-estt. 

10  •  Jr.Tii'^di' (afolmnna 


.rfjf  del  Carman 
1+  Tofya  V  Sa  in  rapiUilar 
Ca:pilla.  RcclI  : 
IT  HetuMjo 


^b^.i.K^V^'Wm.pmiF^li'mbta^Mfti^ 


Caikedral.  GRANADA.  39.  Route.    337 

From  the  PUza  de  Prim  tlie  Calle  del  Principe  leads  to  tlie 
N.W.  to  the  Plaza  db  Bxbabbambla  (PI.  £,  5),  so  named  after  the 
Moorish  gate  of  Btb  ar-Ramla^  which  opened  on  the  *rambla'  of  the 
now  vaulted-over  Darro  and  was  taken  down  in  1873.  The  gate 
was  also  long  known  as  the  ^erta  de  las  OrejaSy  because  at  a  festa 
held  in  1621  in  honour  of  Philip  IV.  the  'Rateros*  utilized  the  fall 
of  one  of  the  platforms  here  to  cut  oflf  the  ears  (orejas)  of  many 
Udles  for  the  sake  of  their  golden  earrings.  The  Bibarrambla  was  the 
favourite  spot  of  both  Moorish  and  Christian  pageants,  tournaments, 
and  bull-flghts,  and  bloody  encounters  often  took  place  in  it  be- 
tween the  adherents  of  the  Zegris  and  the  Abencerrages  (p.  335). 
The  plaza  has,  however,  entirely  lost  its  Moorish  character.  On  its 
E.  side  stands  the  Pataeio  Arzobispal  (PI.  E,  6),  dating  mainly  from 
the  18th  cent,  and  probably  owing  its  chief  interest  to  its  associa- 
tion with  the  short-sighted  criticism  of  Gil  Bias.  On  the  W.  side 
stood  the  Miradorta,  a  handsome  building  erected  about  Jl  540  from 
a  design  by  Piego  de  Siloe  for  the  spectators  of  the  festivals,  and 
burned  down  in  1879.  —  To  the  N.  of  the  Bibarrambla  lies  the 
Plaza  de  Capuchinas  (PI.  D,  E,  5),  with  the  Mercado.  To  the  N.E. 
is  the  small  Plazuela  de  las  Pasiegas,  in  front  of  the  cathedral. 

The  ♦Cathedral  (PI.  D,  E,  4,  5;  adm.,  see  p.  333),  the  im- 
posing memorial  of  the  conquest  of  S.  Spain ,  was  begun  in  the 
Gothic  style,  from  the  designs  of  Enrique  de  Egos  (p.  38),  on 
Mar.  25th,  1523,  under  the  name  of  8anta  Maria  de  la  Encarruicidn, 
The  Alhambra  mosque  (p.  336),  the  Iglesla  Mayor  (p.  347),  and  the 
chief  mosque  of  the  new  town  (the  present  Sagrario,  p.  340)  had 
all  previously  been  found  unsuitable  for  the  purposes  of  a  cathedral. 
In  1525  the  cathedral  chapter,  for  some  unknown  reason,  transferred 
the  superintendence  of  the  building  to  Diego  de  Siloe  (d.  1563), 
who  carried  it  on  in  the  plateresque  style.  The  church,  still  in  a 
very  incomplete  condition,  was  consecrated  on  Aug.  17th,  1561. 
The  lowest,  Doric  stage  of  the  N.  Towbb  (PI.  14)  was  built  before 
1568  by  Siloe's  pupil  and  successor  Juan  de  Maeda.  The  second  and 
third  stories,  in  the  Ionic  and  Corinthian  styles,  were  added  by 
Ambrosio  de  Vico  between  1568  and  1589.  He  also  built  an  octagonal 
stage  at  the  top,  but  that  had  soon  to  be  removed  as  unsafe,  so  that 
the  tower  is  now  only  185  ft.  high  Instead  of  the  contemplated 
height  of  265  ft.  The  S.  tower  was  never  built.  The  massive  W. 
Fa9Adb  was  erected  after  1667  by  Alcmso  Cano  (1601-67)  and  JosS 
OranadoSy  with  wide  deviations  from  the  plan  of  Siloe.  The  interior 
was  not  completed  till  1703.  The  cathedral  of  Granada  is  on  the 
whole  the  best  Renaissance  building  in  Spain,  and  Mr.  Fergusson 
considers  that  in  respect  of  its  plan  it  is  one  of  the  finest  churches 
in  Europe. 

The  rich  sculptures  and  paintings  of  the  cathedral  are  due 
principally  to  Alonso  Cano,  who  fled  from  Valladolid  to  Granada 
when  accused  of  the  murder  of  his  wife.     At  Granada  he  was 

Babdxkxs*0  Spain.  22 


338   Rwte39.  GRANADA.  Cathedral. 

appointed  a  'racionero*  (prebendary)  of  the  cathedral  and  doTOted 
sixteen  years  of  aeryice  to  the  church  -  fabric  in  his  still  extant 
'obrador*  on  the  first  floor  of  the  N.  tower.  The  sculptures  are  made 
of  marble  from  the  quarries  of  Maeael,  in  the  Sierra  de  los  Filabres 
(p.  298),  which  were  exploited  by  the  Romans  and  ha^e  furnished 
material  for  many  of  G-ranada^s  buildings. 

Above  the  Puebta  Pbimcipal  is  a  large  relief  of  the  Incarnation,  by 
Josi  Risueiio  (1717).  The  Annunciation  and  Assumption,  above  the  side-doori, 
are  by  the  French  sculptors,  AUcJul  and  LwU  Verdiguier  (1782).  —  The 
Puebta  de  San  JEsdNiMo,  the  first  K.  door  in  the  Calle  de  la  C^rcel  Bajs, 
is  adorned  with  sculptures  by  Silot^  Maeda  (penitent  St.  Jerome),  and 
other  artists.  —  The  most  handsome  and  elaborate  of  all  the  entrances 
is  the  *PusBTA  DEL  PABDdM,  in  the  N.  transept,  the  lower  part  of  the 
decoration  of  which,  completed  in  1637,  is  also  by  Siloe.  —  The  Puebta 
DSL  GoLEGio,  on  the  E.  side  of  the  ambulatory,  is  a  work  of  Sancho  del 
Cerro  (1590),  but  includes  an  Ecce  Homo  by  Siloe^ 

The  plan  of  the  Inte&iob,  which  is  380  ft.  in  length  and  220  ft. 
in  breadth,  is  similar  to  that  of  the  earlier  Gothic  cathedrals.  It 
shows  a  nsve  with  double  aisles,  flanked  with  rows  of  chapels,  a 
coro  encroaching  on  the  nave,  a  transept,  a  lofty  capilla  mayor,  and 
an  ambulatory.  The  vaulting,  100  ft.  in  height,  is  borne  by  massive 
piers  formed  of  four  Corinthian  pilasters  placed  back  to  back.  The 
decoration  is  mainly  in  white  and  gold,  and  the  handsome  marble 
pavement  (1775)  harmonizes  with  the  general  scheme. 

The  **Capilla  Mayoe,  148  ft.  long  and  155  ft.  high,  opens 
off  the  nave  by  a  magnificent  Arco  Total  and  is  covered  by  a  beauti- 
ful groined  roof  borne  by  Corinthian  columns.  Against  these  columns 
are  colossal  statues  of  the  Apostles,  in  bronze-gilt,  by  Martin  de 
Aranda  (1614)  and  other  masters.  Farther  up  are  paintings  by 
Bocanegra  and  other  pupils  of  Alonso  Cano,  and  above  these  are 
seven  fine  paintings  by  Alonso  Cano  himself,  representing  scenes 
from  the  life  of  the  Virgin  (Annunciation ,  Conception  ,  Nativity, 
Presentation  in  the  Temple,  Visitation,  Purification,  and  Assump- 
tion). The  stained-glass  windows,  with  scenes  from  the  Passion, 
are  by  the  Dutchman  Theodor  de  Holanda  (ca,  1650) ;  the  stained 
glass  of  the  dome  is  by  Juan  del  Campo  (15d1).  On  the  piers  to  the 
right  and  left  of  the  entrance  to  the  chapel  are  colossal  *Heads  of 
Adam  and  Eve,  carved  in  oak  by  Alonso  Cano.  Below  are  kneeling 
figures  of  the  'Catholic  Kings',  by  Pedro  de  Mena  and  Medrano  (1677). 
The  marble  high-altar  has  a  modem  tabernacle  in  the  form  of  a 
small  temple.  The  side-altars  are  adorned  with  pictures  by  Bocane- 
gra (Scourging  of  Christ,  St.  Basil  giving  St.  Benedict  the  rules  of 
his  order)  and  Juan  de  SeviUa  (Martyrdom  of  St.  Cecilia,  Virgin 
appearing  to  St.  Bernard). 

The  Choib  contains  unimportant  stalls  of  the  16th  cent  and 
two  organs  by  Leonardo  Ddvila  (1749).  Alonso  Cano  and  Mariana 
Pineda  (p.  345)  are  buried  here.  The  trascoro  is  adorned  with 
rich  rococo  decoration  of  1741  and  four  alabaster  statues  of  bishops 
by  AguHin  Vera,     Above  the  altar  is  a  mosaic  of  the  Temptation 


CothtdnU.  (^KANADA.  39.  Route.   389 

of  St.  Antony.  An  inscription  on  the  wall  informs  ns  that  this 
was  the  site  of  the  tower  of  the  Moorish  mosqne,  destroyed  in  1588. 

A  visitation  of  the  Latebal  Chafbls,  many  of  which  are  very 
dark,  is  most  conveniently  begun  at  the  end  of  the  right  aisle. 

The  CapiUa  de  San  Miguel  (PI.  2),  magnificently  decorated  in 
1807  by  Juan  Manuel  Moscoso,  the  wealthy  Archbp.  of  Granada, 
contains  a  marble  relief  of  St.  Michael  and  the  Dragon,  by  Adan^ 
and  ♦La  Virgen  de  la  Soledad  (Mater  Dolorosa),  a  copy  by  Alonso 
Cano  of  a  celebrated  statne  by  Qcupar  Beeerra. 

Between  Chapels  2  and  3  is  a  fine  wooden  door,  leading  to  the 
SagraHo  (p.  340). 

Over  the  high-altar  of  the  Capilla  de  la  Trinidad  (PI.  3)  is  a 
Holy  Trinity,  by  A.  Cano.  To  the  left  is  a  painting  by  Pedro  de 
Moya  (Virgin  and  Child  appearing  to  a  bishop),  above  which  is  a 
Holy  Family  by  an  unknown  master. 

The  •Paintings  at  the  AUar  of  Jesd*  Nazareno  (PI.  4)  are  ad- 
mirable. The  8t.  Franeia  is  by  Dom.  Theotocopuliy  the  Holy  Child 
with  St.  Antony,  the  Martyrdom  of  St.  Lawrence,  and  the  Magdalen 
(damaged)  are  by  Bibera.  Above  is  a  fine  Bearing  of  the  Cross  (^Calle 
de  la  Amarguxa')  by  A.  Cano.   The  St.  Paul  is  a  copy  of  Ribera. 

Beyond  this  altar  is  the  handsome  Portal  of  the  Royal  Chapel 
(p.  340),  partly  by  Enrique  de  Egos  (p.  337).  The  inscription  is  'Laudent 
eum  opera  ejus'.  Farther  on  is  the  Altar  de  Santiago  (PI.  6),  with 
statues  of  St.  James  (Santiago)  by  Alonso  de  Mena  (1640),  St.  Cecilia 
by  Josi  Moray  and  St.  Gregory  by  Dte^o  Mora.  Above  the  St. 
James  is  a  small  picture  of  the  Virgen  de  loa  Perdonei,  given  by  Pope 
Innocent  YIU.  to  Isabella  the  Catholic.  On  the  conquest  of  Granada 
the  first  mass  in  the  Alhambra  mosque  was  said  before  this  picture, 
and  a  commemorative  mass  is  still  said  before  it  every  Jan.  2nd. 

From  the  first  chapel  of  the  ambulatory  a  handsome  portal,  con- 
structed by  Siloe  in  1534  and  adorned  with  a  relief  of  the  Virgin 
and  Child  and  fine  busts  of  the  Apostles,  leads  into  the  Ante- 
Sacfietia^  which  contains  a  Holy  Family  by  Juan  de  Sevilla  and 
an  Annunciation  to  the  Shepherds  by  Ltaridro  Bcusano.  —  In  the 
SAC&isTr  itself  (18th  cent.)  are  a  crucifix  by  Montanis  (p.  396), 
a  large  painting  of  the  Annunciation  by  A.  Cano^  the  Conception 
(sculpture)  by  the  same,  and  a  Custodia,  5  ft.  high,  presented  by 
Isabella  the  Catholic  for  use  in  the  procession  of  Corpus  Ohristl. 
The  Oratory,  in  the  corner  of  the  sacristy,  contains  another  Con- 
ception and  a  small  wood-carving  of  the  Virgin  and  Child,  by  Cano. 

The  CapiUa  de  Santa  Ana  (PI.  6)  contains  a  painted  wooden 
group  of  St.  Anna,  Joachim,  and  the  Virgin  (16th  cent.),  and  two 
pictures  by  Atanaaio  Bocanegra.  Below  this  chapel  is  a  cistern 
(aljibeh).  —  The  Cap.  de  San  Sebastidn  (PI.  7)  has  a  Scene  of 
Martyrdom  by  Juan  de  SevUkij  and  the  Cap.  de  San  Cecilio  (PL  8) 
has  some  indifferent  sculptures  -by  M.  Verdiguier.  —  The  Cap.  de 
Santa  Teresa  (PL  9),  with  two  early  works  of  Juan  de  Sevilla,  and 

22* 


340  B(mUS9.  GRANADA.  CapiOa  Real. 

the  Cap.  de  JefHt  de  la  Colunma  (PI.  10),  with  a  St.  Rosalia  by 
Jo»i  Risutnoy  are  also  of  little  interest.  —  The  CapiUa  de  Nuuiira 
8mora  de  la  AnUgua  (PI.  11),  the  last  in  the  ambulatory,  contains 
a  large  altar  by  Pedro  Duque  (1718),  portraits  of  Ferdinand  and 
Isabella  by  Frame,  Alor^o  Arguello(i6Ad%  and  a  highly  reyered image 
of  the  Virgin  (15th  cent.),  said  to  have  been  found  between  Ayila 
and  SegOYJa  and  to  have  shared  in  the  campaign  against  Granada. 

The  Cap.  de  Nueatra  8enora  del  Carmen  (PI.  12),  the  second  in 
the  N.  aisle,  contains  a  head  of  St.  Paul,  carved  in  oak  by  A»  Cano. 
In  the  Cap.  de  la  Virgen  del  PUar  (PI.  13)  are  the  tomb  of  Archbp. 
BienvenidoMonz6n  (d.  1885)  and  a  relief  of  the  Virgin  and  St.  James 
by  Juan  Adan, 

Over  the  portal  of  the  8ala  Capitular  (PI.  14)  is  La  Caridad, 
a  group  long  ascribed  to  Pietro  TorHgiani  but  probably  a  work  of 
Juan  de  Maeda. 

Adjoining  the  cathedral  on  the  S.,  and  having  the  wall  of  the 
S.  aisle  as  its  N.  wall,  is  the  Sagrario  or  Santa  MaHa  delaO,  built 
by  Francisco  Hurtado  Jtquierdo  in  1705-59  and  used  as  a  parish- 
church.  It  occupies  the  exact  site  of  the  principal  mosque  of  Granada, 
a  structure  with  eleven  aisles,  resembling  the  mosque  of  Cordova 
in  its  arrangement  and  used  as  a  Christian  church  down  to  1661 
almost  without  change.  The  Sagrario  may  be  entered  by  the  main 
portal  in  the  Plazuela  de  las  Pasiegas  (p.  337),  or  from  the  cathe- 
dral by  the  Puerta  Interior  del  Sagrario,  or  from  the  Capilla  Real 
(see  below).  It  contains  a  fine  Renaissance  font  by  Frandseo 
Florentin  and  Martin  Milanes  (1522)  and  a  St.  Joseph  by  Juan  de 
Sevilla  (after  A.  Cano). 

The  Capilla  de  Pulgar  (PI.  15),  in  the  K.W.  corner  of  the  Sagrario, 
marks  the  scene  of  the  brave  deed  of  Hern^  P^rez  del  Pulgar  (d.  1531), 
who  entered  Granada  by  the  conduit  of  the  Darro  on  the  night  of  Dec. 
18th,  1490,  and  with  his  dagger  pinned  a  scroll  bearing  the  words  'Ave 
Maria'  to  the  door  of  the  mosque  (comp.  p.  391).  The  gallant  knight 
regained  the  Christian  camp  in  safety. 

The  ^Capilla  Real  also  lies  to  the  S.  of  the  cathedral,  with 
which  it  communicates  by  the  door  mentioned  at  p.  339.  It  was 
erected  in  the  late-Gothic  style  in  1506-17  by  E^ique  de  Egos 
for  the  ^Catholic  Kings*  and  was  afterwards  enlarged  by  Charles  V., 
who  found  it  Hoo  small  for  so  great  glory'.  Besides  the  tombs  of 
Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  it  also  contains  those  of  Philip  the  Hand- 
some and  Johanna  4a  Loca',  the  parents  of  Charles  V.  A  magni- 
ficent iron  Reja^  by  BaxtolonU  of  Jaen  (1523),  separates  the  burial 
chapel  proper  from  the  rest  of  the  building.  In  front  of  us  as  we 
enter  are  the  **Royal  Monuments.  (PI.  16),  made  of  marble  and 
executed  in  the  style  of  the  Italian  Renaissance.  That  of  Ferdinand 
and  Isabella,  to  the  right,  by  Domenico  Fancelli  (p.  48)  of  Florence, 
is  the  finer  of  the  two.  The  king  wears  the  order  of  St.  George, 
the  queen  the  cross  of  Santiago.  To  the  left  is  the  monument  of 
^hillp  of  Austria,  wearing  the  Golden  Fleece,  and  the  Infanta 


CasaddCabildo,  GRANADA.  d9.  JBou(«.  341 

Johanna  (' Juana  la  Loca*),  1)y  Bartolomi  Ordones.  Both  tombs  are 
adorned  with  charming  stataettes,  reliefs,  etc 

Between  the  two  monumeats  is  the  entrance  to  the  Bubial  Vault, 
containing  the  iron-bound  leaden  coffins  of  the  *Seyes\  bearing  no  oma> 
mentation  except  initials  surmounted  by  crowns.  We  descend  a  few 
steps  into  the  dark  'bovtda*.  To  the  right  and  left,  in  the  middle,  lie 
luibata  and  Ferdinand.  Beside  the  latter  lies  PhUip ,  beside  Isabella  are 
Johmma  and  the  Jnfanf  Michael.  The  cofAns  haye  never  been  opened. 
Philip^s  coffin  is  the  one  that  his  demented  wife  used  to  carry  about 
with  her. 

The  large  *Betablo  (PI.  17)  is  by  Philip  Vigami  (d.  1643). 
The  kneeling  statuettes  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella  are  said  to  be 
faithful  likenesses  of  the  ^Reyes  Gat61icos'.  The  Woodtn  ReliefSy 
each  in  two  sections,  are  of  great  historical  interest.  To  the  left  is 
depicted  Boabdil  surrendering  the  key  of  the  Alhambra  to  Card. 
Mendoza  (p.  353),  in  the  presence  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella.  The 
relief  to  the  right  represents  the  Baptism  of  the  reluctant  Moors  hy 
Spanish  monks.  The  ornate  Relicarios  (PI.  18),  or  side-altars,  by 
Aloruo  de  Mena  (1632),  are  never  opened  except  on  high  festivals. 
They  contain  relics  and  paintings  presented  to  the  cathedral  by  the 
^Gatholio  Kings',  including  some  valuable  works  by  JIan»  MtmUng, 

The  Sacustt  (PI.  19)  of  the  Gapilla  Beal  contains  kneeling  figures  of 
Ferdinand  and  Isabella  (of  unknown  origin)  and  a  glass-case  with  the  sword 
of  Ferdinand  and  the  sceptre,  crown,  and  mirror  of  Isabella.  Here  also 
are  some  finely  embroidered  vestments  (eatuUat)^  including  one  worked 
by  Isabella;  a  standard  embroidered  by  Isabella  and  hoisted  over  con- 
quered Qranada;  and  a  missal  of  Isabella,  by  Francisco  Florez,  with 
SU)  pages  and  30  illustrations,  which  is  laid  on  the  high-altar  on  Jan.  2nd. 

Visitors  are  also  advised  to  ascend  the  K.  Toweb  (p.  38  .and  peram- 
bulate the  roof  for  the  sake  of  the  view.  The  entrance  is  by  a  small 
door  immediately  to  the  left  of  the  main  portal  of  the  cathedral. 

The  picturesque  Placbta  de  la  Lonja  (PI.  E,  4)  affords  a  good 
view  of  the  rich  late-Gothic  exterior  of  the  Capilla  Real  and  of  its 
8.  Portaly  by  Juan  Qarc^a  cU  Pradaa,  which  was  partly  modernized 
in  the  18th  century.  The  latter  is  adorned  with  plateresque  orna- 
mentation and  statues  of  the  Virgin,  St.  John  the  Evangelist,  and 
John  the  Baptist.  —  At  right  angles  to  the  Capilla  Real  and  with 
its  back  to  the  Sagrario  (p.  340)  stands  the  Lonja,  built  by  J.  0. 
de  Pradaa  in  1518-22  and  also  possessing  a  handsome  plateresque 
portal.  —  In  the  angle  between  the  chapel  and  the  Lonja  stood  the 
Fountain  of  the  Moorish  mosque. 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  Placeta  de  la  Lonja,  opposite  the  Royal 
Sepulchral  Chapel,  rises  the  Casa  del  Cabildo  Anti^pia,  originally 
the  seat  of  the  Moorish  university  founded  by  Yiisuf  I.  to  take  the 
place  of  those  lost  at  Cordova  and  Seville.  Afterwards  it  became 
the  residence  of  the  'Catholic  Kings',  whose  initials  (F  andY),  along 
with  a  pomegranate  (granada)j  were  freely  scattered  over  the  build- 
ing in  an  18th  cent,  restoration.  From  1500  to  1851  the  Casa  del 
Cabildo  was  used  as  the  town-hall,  hut  now  it  has  sunk  to  be  a 
warehouse  for  textile  goods.  Most  of  the  Moorish  inscriptions  and 
ornamentation  of  the  interior  have  heen  covered  with  whitewash. 


342  Route  39.  GRANADA.  Audiencia, 

The  8ala  de  CahUdos  has  a  fine  wooden  ceiling ;  and  another  hand- 
some room,  with  a  dome,  has  lately  been  restored.  The  cornices, 
window-firames,  and  gilt-mounted  doors  are  all  interesting. 

To  the  S.  of  the  Gasa  delGabildo  lies  the  Alcaicerfa,  a  little  used 
market-hall  erected  on  the  site  of  a  Moorish  bazaar  (al-Kaisarijah), 
whicii  was  bnmed  down  in  1843.  Farther  on  is  the  ZacaUn  (PI.  E, 
4,  6;  from  adkkdtin,  'the  rope-makers'),  a  narrow  thoroughfare, 
closed  to  wheeled  vehicles  but  much  frequented  by  foot-passengers, 
especially  in  the  evening.  The  trade  and  traf&e  are,  however,  rapidly 
shifting  to  the  OAiiLB  de  Mendbz  Nunez,  a  new  street  running 
parallel  with  the  Zacatin  on  the  S.  over  the  covered-in  bed  of  the 
Barro.   It  connects  the  Plaza  de  Prim  (p.  336)  with  the  Plaza  Nueva. 

A  little  to  the  S.  of  the  Calle  de  Hendez  Xunez,  and  reached  by  the 
short  Calle  de  la  Paerta  del  Garbdn,  stands  the  Casa  del  Carbon,  built 
at  the  beginning  of  the  14th  cent,  as  the  granary  of  Granada.  It  is  also 
known  as  the  Alhdndiga^  from  the  Arabic  'al-funduk'  (warehouse).  The 
picturesque  door  with  its  horseshoe  arch,  the  stalactite  vaulting,  and  the 
other  scanty  relies  of  the  Moorish  period  are  all  very  dilapidated  and 
much  blackened  by  the  coal-dust  of  the  Carboneros. 

The  Zacatin  and  Calle  de  Mendez  Nufiez  end  to  the  £.  at  the 
Plaza  Nueva  (PI.  E,  4),  another  square  under  which  the  Darro 
flows.  Above  us,  to  the  E.,  rises  the  Alhambra  (p.  349),  which  is 
most  easily  reached  from  this  point  by  the  Galle  de  Gom^res.  To 
the  N.E.  stands  the  Audiencia  fPl.  E,  4),  originally  the  CkancilUria, 
a  Renaissance  structure  of  1531-87,  with  a  facade  in  the  style  of 
Herrera.  The  arcaded  patio,  in  the  middle  of  which  rises  a  fountain, 
was  probably  constructed  by  Diego  de  Siloe  (p.  337).  Among  the 
features  of  interest  are  the  arms  of  Charles  Y. ,  the  staircase,  the 
wooden  doors  with  medallions,  and  the  curious  way  in  which  the 
hinges  of  the  entrance-door  are  inserted  in  a  stone  below  and  in  a, 
corbel  above. 

Above  the  Plaza  Nueva  the  Darro  is  not  covered  in.  On  its 
left  bank  lies  the  church  of  Santa  Ana  (PI.  £,  3),  a  Renaissance 
building,  perhaps  by  Diego  de  Siloe,  erected  about  1541  on  the  site 
of  the  mosque  of  Almanzora.  It  has  a  handsome  portal  and  a  beau- 
tiful wooden  roof,  and  contains  a  painting  by  Atanasio  Bocanegra 
and  a  fine  figure  of  the  Mater  Dolorosa  by  Jose  Mora  (1671).  The 
tower,  built  by  Juan  Cctstellar  in  1561-63,  resembles  a  Moorish 
minaret,  with  its  round-arched  vdndows,  its  azulejos,  and  its  pro- 
jecting, corbel-borne  roof. 

The  Cabebea  de  Dabeo  (PI.  E,  3,  2),  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
stream,  is  one  of  the  oldest  parts  of  Granada  and  affords  many  pic- 
turesque views,  particularly  of  the  walls  and  towers  of  the  Alhambra. 
The  Puente  del  Cadi  (Arab.  Kantarat  al-Kddi),  over  which  passed 
the  oldest  road  to  the  Alhambra,  was  built  in  the  11th  cent,,  and 
the  remains  of  one  of  its  horseshoe  arches  are  still  visible  on  the 
left  bank.  At  No.  37  in  the  Carrera  de  Darro,  now  occupied  by 
poor  families,  is  the  Banuelo,  a  Moorish  bath ,  dating ,  perhaps, 
from  the  11th  century.   The  large  basin,   with  alcoves  for  resting, 


Saero  MonU.  GRANADA.  39.  Route.    343 

and  other  bathing-rooms  are  still  extant,  together  with  traces  of 
Moorish  ornamentation. 

Farther  on,  on  the  right  side  of  the  street,  in  the  'Angosturas', 
Ilea  the  ehnrch  of  San  Pedro  y  San  Pablo  (PI.  E,  2,  3),  with  a  fine 
wooden  ceiling.  On  the  other  side  of  the  river  is  the  precipice 
below  the  N.E.  angle  of  the  Alcazaba  (see  p.  354),  and  beneath  this 
are  the  arches  of  the  Canal  deSan  Pedro.  To  the  N.  of  the  chnroh  lies 
the  Ca$a  de  CastrUj  a  curions  Renaissance  stracture,  with  an  elab- 
orate plateresqne  portal,  probably  bnilt  by  a  pupil  of  Diego  de  Siloe. 

The  side-8tre«ts  running  hence  to  the  17.  lead  to  the  small  church  of 
San  Juan  de  loa  Beyes  (PI.  D,  2),  erected  in  the  Gothic  style  by  Rodriffo 
Semdndez  abont  1620.  The  well-preserved  *Tower  is  the  minaret  of  the 
Hoorish  mosque  of  Aiaibinf  but  the  belfry-stage  was  added  by  the  Christ- 
ians. —  In  Iwl,  during  the  eonstmctlon  of  the  Bedemptorist  convent  of 
Son  Al/onto  Maria  de  Ligorio.  some  remains  of  an  old  Roman  street  were 
laid  bare  near  San  Juan.  —  From  San  Juan  to  San  Nicolas^  see  p.  344. 

The  Garrera  de  Darro  is  continued  by  the  Axameda  db  Darro 
(PI.  £,  2),  the  al'Oharsa  ('plantation')  of  the  Moors,  a  beautiful 
avenue  of  elms.  To  the  right,  above  us,  is  the  Generalife  (p.  367)  j 
to  the  left  is  the  Albaicin  (p.  344).  At  the  beginning  of  the  Cuesta 
del  Ohapiz  (see  below)  stood  the  Puerta  de  OuadiXj  the  old  N.E. 
gate  of  the  city.  The  bridge  here  leads  across  to  the  Barraneo  de 
Fuente  Pena  (PI.  E,  2),  where  an  inscription  records  the  restoration 
of  the  Alhambra  in  1833.  Farther  up  is  the  Cuesta  del  Ret  Chico 
(PI.  F,  2),  which  ascends  through  the  cactus-clad  gorge  mentioned 
at  p.  349  to  the  Puerta  de  Hierro  (p.  366),  the  E.  gate  of  the  Al- 
hambra, and  to  the  Oeneralife  (p.  367). 

A  pictoresque  but  shadeless  footpath  leads  from  the  bridge  up  the  left 
bank  of  the  Darro  to  C/i  M.)  the  Fuente  del  Avellano  (beyond  PI.  E,  1), 
the  *hazel-nut  spring'  which  Chateaubriand  compared  with  the  fountain 
of  Vaueluse.  The  Uoors  ealled  it  ^Ain  ad-da^moy  or  the  'Spring  of  Tears\ 
probably  from  the  alow  way  in  which  it  rises  out  of  the  clayey  soil. 

The  Cuesta  del  Chapiz  (PI.  E,  D,  2)  ascends  from  the  Darro 
towards  the  N.  to  the  old  suburb  of  Albaida.  The  street  is  named 
from  the  Casa  del  ChapiSy  a  mansion  erected  in  the  16th  cent,  in 
the  Mud^jar  style  for  two  wealthy  Moriscoes.  It  possesses  two  sepa- 
rate patios,  and  is  now  occupied  by  several  poor  families. 

The  Camino  del  Sac&o  Monte  (PI.  D,  2,  1),  diverging  to  the 
E.  opposite  the  Casa  del  Chapiz,  was  once  of  great  importance  as 
the  road  to  Guadix  (p.  299).  It  is  lined  with  numerous  Cave  Dwell- 
ings (Cuevasjj  occupied  mainly  by  gipsies  but  also  sheltering  a 
good  number  of  ^Castellana  Gente'. 

The  Gipsies  or  Oitanoe  (i.e.  Egipcianos)^  whose  dialect  (cold)  has  many 
peculiarities  (comp.  p.  389),  are  known  to  have  been  settled  at  Oranada 
since  1582.  Those  who  wish  to  investigate  their  cave  -  dwellings  and 
customs  should  apply  to  their  'King\  either  directly  or  through  a  guide. 
They  can  then  have  their  fortunes  told  or  see  a  gipsy  dance,  a  performance 
more  notable  for  its  expense  than  for  its  interest.  As  the  gipsies  are  most 
persistent  and  importanate  beggars,  it  is  well  to  be  supplied  with  abundance 
of  small  coin  and  patience. 

The  footpath  ends  at  (li/4  M.)  the  Saero  Monte  (to  the  N.E.  0^ 


346   Bouuas.  GRANADA.  8anJer6fiimo. 

other  saints,  ita  paintings  by  Pmlomino^  and  its  rich  marble  ornamentation, 
is  very  effective.  —  The  chief  sight  of  the  Cartnja  is,  however,  the 
*Sacki8tt,  built  by  Luis  de  Arivdlo  in  1727-64.  It  is  entered  by  a  hand- 
some door,  aad  its  walls  are  encrusted  with  the  most  costly  varieties  of 
marble.  It  contains  some  celebrated  cedar«wood  Cdmodat  (cabinets),  in- 
laid by  Joti  Vazquez  (1730-64)  with  ivory,  mother-of-pearl,  and  silver. 

The  Garden  (ffuerta)  of  the  Gartuja,  now  in  private  hands,  hardly 
repays  a  visit.  In  the  midst  of  it  stands  the  large  new  bnilding  of  the 
JfQwieiado  de  la  ComptMim  de  JesiU. 


To  the  right,  in  the  Calls  db  San  Juan  db  Dios  (PL  G,  4,  5), 
which  leads  to  the  S.W.  from  the  Campo  del  Triunfo,  lies  the 
Hoapital  de  San  Juan  de  Dios  (PI.  G,  5),  founded  in  1552.  It 
takes  its  name  from  Juan  de  Dios  or  de  RohleSj  a  Portuguese  who 
lived  in  Granada  from  1536  till  his  death  in  1550,  zealously  engaged 
in  the  establishment  of  hospitals  for  the  sick  and  for  foundlings. 
He  also  founded  the  order  of  the  Brothers  of  Mercy  or  Hospitallers 
(Orden  de  los  Hospitalariot),  which  was  sanctioned  by  Pope  Pius  Y. 
in  1572.  He  was  canonized  in  1690.  Over  the  entrance  is  a  kne^ng 
statue  of  San  Juan  de  Dios  by  Jose  Mora,  The  artesonado  ceiling  in 
the  W.  angle  of  the  first  court  should  be  noticed.  The  Ghusch,  built 
in  1737-59  in  the  most  florid  baroque  style,  contains  altar-pieces 
and  frescoes  hy  Sdnehez  Sarabia^  Carlo  Maratta^  Conrado  OietquirUOj 
Tomds  Ferrer,  and  other  artists.  In  the  sacristy  are  pictures  by  Ata- 
nasio  Bocantgra;  in  the  Gamarin  are  the  relics  of  the  saint  and 
paintings  by  Vargas  and  Sarabia.  Visitors  are  also  shown  the  cage 
(jaulaj  in  which  the  saint  was  at  one  time  confined,  when  his  zeal 
was  mistaken  for  insanity. 

The  second  side-street  to  the  right  beyond  the  Hospital  leads  to 
the  convent  of  San  JeT6nimo  (PI.  G,  5),  founded  by  the  'Gatholic 
Kings'  in  1492.  Since  the  French  invasion  of  1810  it  has  been  used 
as  cavalry  barracks.  It  includes  two  beautiful  patios,  the  outermost 
of  which  has  several  charming  portals  by  Diego  de  Siloe,  The 
Ghurch,  also  in  part  by  Siloe  but  now  defaced  by  paint,  is  the 
burial-place  of  the  'Great  Captain'  (open  7-8.30  a.m.,  at  other  times 
for  a  fee ;  visitors  ring  at  the  main  entrance). 

Above  the  main  entrance  is  the  coat-of-arms  of  Oonsalvo  de  Cordoba 
(p.  309),  with  the  inscription :  Qonealo  Ferdinando  a  Corduba  magno  SiS' 
panorum  dud,  Qallorum  ac  Turcarum  Terrori.  Beneath  the  superb  capilla 
mayor,  a  creation  of  Siloe,  is  the  tomb  of  the  hero  and  his  widow  Maria 
Manrique.  The  inscription  ends  with  the  words :  gloria  minitne  eontepulta. 
The  tomb  was  formerly  surrounded  by  7(X)  captured  banners.  At  the  elab- 
orate hieh- altar,  executed  by  Juan  de  Aragdn^  Ldzaro  de  Velasco,  and 
others  (1570  et  seq.))  are  kneeling  "^Figures  of  the  ^Great  Captain^  and  his 
wife.  At  the  ends  of  the  transepts  are  statues,  in  full  armour,  of  hiB  four 
Compafieros.  —  The  fourth  chapel  in  the  left  aisle  contains  a  fine  group 
of  the  Entombment,  ascribed  to  Becerra  ( Pietro  Torrigicmif).  —  The  coro, 
containing  elaborate  stalls  by  SHoe^  is  at  the  N.W.  end  of  the  church. 

To  the  S.E.  of  San  Jer6nimo,  in  the  Galle  de  la  Duquesn,  stands 
the  University  (PI.  D,  6),  founded  in  1531  and  transferred  to  the 
present  building,  the  Colegio  de  la  Compania  de  JesiQs,  in  1769.  It 
Is  now  attended  by  only  about  600  students,  and  possesses  a  Library 


Sanio  Domingo.  GRANADA.  39.  Route,  347 

of  25,000to18.  and  a  few  good  Pictures  by  Jnan  de  Sevilla,  Luca 
Giordano,  Pereda,  Conrado  Giaquinto,  and  other  artists.  It  is  ad- 
joined by  a  Botanical  Garden,  —  Farther  to  the  S.,  in  the  Oalle  de 
Gracia,  nearly  opposite  the  church  of  Santa  Maria  Magdalena  (PI.  E, 
5),  is  the  house  (No.  12)  in  -which  Eugenia  de  Guzmdn  y  Porto- 
earrero,  the  widow  of  Napoleon  III.,  was  born  in  1826  (tablet).  — 
The  Calle  de  los  Mesones,  the  S.E.  prolongation  of  the  above-men- 
tioned Galle  de  laDuquesa,  brings  us  back  to  the  Puerta  Real  (p.  336). 


The  shady  square  in  front  of  the  H6tel  Alameda  (p.  382),  at  the 
S.E.  comer  of  the  Oabbbka  de  Gbnil  (Pi.  E,  F,  5),  occupies  the 
site  of  the  Piterta  Bibaiaubin,  an  important  Moorish  gate,  destroyed 
by  the  French  in  1810.  The  old  Castillo  db  Bibataijbzn  (PI.  P,  6), 
erected  by  the  ^Catholic  Kings'  on  the  site  of  some  of  the  Moorish 
fortifications,  was  largely  destroyed  in  1718,  while  in  1752-64  it 
was  replaced  by  the  present  barracks.  The  S.E.  tower,  the  lower 
part  of  which  is  of  Moorish  origin,  recalls  the  Puerta  de  los  Siete 
Suelos  (p.  366).  The  Moorish  wall  extended  in  a  wide  sweep  from 
this  point  to  the  Torres  Bermejas  (p.  352).  —  The  Plaza  de  Mariana 
(formerly  the  CampiUo),  behind  the  Bibataubin,  contains  the  Teairo 
Principal  (p.  332)  and  a  marble  statue  of  Mariana  Pineda  (p.  345), 
by  Miguel  Marin  (1870). 

The  Galle  de  San  Matias,  beginning  opposite  this  statue,  leads 
to  the  N.E.  to  the  Capitania  General  (PI.  E,  4),  which  occupies  the 
site  of  the  old  Iglesia  Mayor  (p.  337)  and  of  a  Franciscan  convent, 
and  to  the  Convenio  de  Carmelitas  Deicalza^^  originally  founded  in 
1582  in  the  house  where  the  'Great  Captain'  (p.  346)  died  on 
Dec.  2nd,  1515.  —  A  few  yards  to  the  S.E.  lies  the  Casa  db  los 
TiBos  (PI.  E,  4),  with  a  tower  resembling  that  of  a  Moorish  alcazar, 
and  now  belonging  to  the  Marquis  de  Campotejar  (Count  Pallavicini), 
It  contains  a  handsome  room  called  the  Ouadra  Dorada  and  a  col- 
lection of  antiquities,  including  the  sword  of  Boabdil  (?)  and  por- 
traits of  the  *Great  Captain'  and  the  'Catholic  Kings.'  The  tickets 
for  the  Generalife  are  issued  here  (p.  367). 

A  little  to  the  S.E.  of  the  buildings  just  mentioned  lies  the 
Plaza  db  Santo  Domingo  (PI.  F,  4),  with  the  Church  of  Santo  Do- 
mingoy  a  tasteful  structure  of  the  16-17th  cent.,  and  the  Convento 
de  Santa  Cruz,  now  a  military  school.  —  Not  far  off  are  the  Teatro 
de  Isabel  la  Catdlica  (p.  332)  and  the  magnificent  villa  of  *Cnarto 
Beal  de  Santo  Domingo,  to  which,  however,  it  is  difficult  to  obtain 
admission.  This  villa  was  the  Al~Madjarra  of  the  Moors  and  takes  its 
present  name  from  a  tower  (formerly  Nonsard)  of  the  13th  cent.,  with 
a  Moorish  gateway.  A  large  room  in  the  villa  contains  fine  mosaics, 
inscriptions  from  the  Koran ,  and  other  decorations  of  an  earlier 
date  than  those  of  the  Alhambra.  The  gardens  also,  with  their  bowers 
and  hedges  of  laurel  and  myrtle,  date  from  the  Moorish  period. 


348  Soute39.  GRANADA.  Alanuda. 

The  Caeaia  de  Santa  Catalina,  a  ateep  footpath,  aacends  from  the 
Plaza  de  Santo  bumingo  to  the  E.  to  the  Campo  da  lot  Mdrtires  (p.  366). 

We  now  return  to  the  Campillo  (p.  347)  and  enter  tbe  'Alameda 
(PL  F,  G,  6),  the  favourite  winter-promenade  of  Granada,  shaded 
by  fine  plane-trees.  To  the  left  lie  the  Castillo  de  Bibataubin 
(p.  347)  and  the  BondiUa^  formerly  the  haunt  of  gamblers  and 
sharpers  (piccuroa)  and  well  known  from  its  description  by  Cervantes. 
To  the  right  stands  Nuestka  Senoba  de  las  Angustias  (PL  F, 
G,  5),  a  church  with  two  towers,  built  in  1664-71,  by  Juan  Luis 
Ortega.  It  contains  statues  of  the  Saviour,  the  Virgin,  and  the 
Twelve  Apostles  by  Pedro  Duque  Comedo  (ca.  1715).  Behind  the 
high-altar  is  a  rich  Camariny  completed  in  1742  for  'La  Patrona  de 
Granada',  a  much-revered  image  of  the  Virgin,  that  is  borne  in  a 
procession  to  the  cathedral  on  Easter  Monday.  The  attractive  fres- 
coes- in  the  sacristy  (scenes  from  the  life  of  the  Virgin)  are  by  an 
unknown  master.  —  At  the  point  where  the  Alameda  joins  the 
Sal6n  (see  below)  rises  a  Bronze  Monument  by  Mariano  Benlliure 
(1892),  representing  Isabella  the  Catholic  agreeing  to  the  proposals 
of  Columbus  at  Santa  F^  (p.  331). 

Opposite  this  monument,  to  the  right,  is  the  small  Plaeeta  del  Humil- 
ladero  (PI.  G,  5),  whence  the  Puente  de  Oenil^  dating  originally  from  the 
12th  cent.,  leads  across  to  the  PasAo  del  Viol6»  (PI.  G,  5  6).  At  the  W. 
end  of  this  paseo  is  the  small  Ermita  de  San  Sebattidn  (PI.  G,  6),  oriein- 
ally  a  Moorish  chapel,  where,  as  recorded  by  an  inscription  of  the  ISth 
cent.,  Ferdinand  the  Catholic  received  Boabdil  on  his  departure  from 
Granada.  —  A  little  farther  on,  on  the  border  of  the  vega,  is  the  inter- 
esting Alcizar  de  Genii,  built  under  Ydsuf  I.  (1333-54)  as  a  palace  for  the 
Moorish  queens  and  now  the  property  of  the  Dttque  de  Oor.  The  most 
notable  feature  of  the  interior,  which  has  been  partly  restored,  is  a  small 
room  with  Cafic  inscriptions  and  Moorish  ornamentation.  In  the  vicinity 
is  a  large  pond,  said  to  have  been  used  by  the  Moors  for  naumachise  or 
naval  sham-fLghts.  Adjacent  are  the  remains  of  a  building  for  the  spectators. 

From  the  S.  end  of  the  Alameda  the  magnificent  *Fa8eo  del 
Sal6n  (PI.  G,  5,  4)  leads  to  the  left  (E.).  It  is  planted  with  fine 
elms  and  commands  a  superb  view,  now  somewhat  interrupted  by 
factory-buildings.  Above  us  are  the  Torres  Bermejas  (p.  362)  and 
the  Villa  Los  Martires  (p.  366).  To  the  right,  beyond  the  Genii,  is 
the  Convento  de  San  Basilio  (PI.  G,  5),  which  was  founded  in  1614 
and  has  been  used  since  1860  as  the  CoUgio  de  las  Escuelas  Bias ; 
it  is  embedded  among  fine  cypresses.  To  the  S.£.  rises  the  noble 
array  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  which  retains  its  mantle  of  snow  till 
midsummer.  The  Picacho  de  la  Veleta  is  the  only  peak  rising  above 
the  general  uniformity  of  the  ridge.  The  broad  summit  in  front  is 
the  limestone  Domajo  ('trough*  or  'milk-paiV),  which  is  adjoined 
lower  down  by  the  miocene  formations  ending  in  the  valley  of  the 
Genii.   On  the  last  lie  La  Zubia  and  several  farms. 

The  continuation  of  the  Salon  is  named  the  Paseo  della  Bomba 
(PI.  G,  H,  4).  Both  promenades  are  enlivened  by  several  fountains, 
drawing  their  somewhat  turbid  water  from  the  Acequia  Oorda, 
which  leaves  the  Genii  5  M.  higher  up.  The  largest  is  the  Fuente 
de  la  Bomba  (PL  H,  4). 


SUuaUon.  ALHAMBRA.  39.  Route.   349 

Beyond  the  PuenU  Verde  (PI.  H,  4),  on  a  hill  rising  from  the  left  bank 
of  the  stream,  is  the  former  Ermita  de  San  Awtdn  el  Viejo^  affording  a 
wide  Tiew.  —  From  the  Puente  Verde  and  from  the  Paente  de  (3^enil 
(p.  348)  roads  lead  to  the  S.  to  the  Tillage  of  Buetor,  to  the  Ultimo  Buepiro 
del  Mora  (p.  336),  and  on  to  Lanfaton  and  MoirU  (British  (Consular  Agent; 
p.  3128).  From  the  road  to  Hnetor  there  soon  diverges  to  the  left  the  Ca- 
nUno  de  los  Jfeveros,  the  route  followed  hy  the  muleteers  who  bring  the 
snow  of  the  Sierra  into  the  city  in  summer  (oomp.  p.  868). 

We  may  now  ascend  to  the  N.E.,  past  the  Bomba  ^11,  to  a  number 
of  Cave  Dwellings,  hidden  among  thickets  of  cactne,  and  on  to  the 
Campo  de  loa  Mdrtires  (p.  366).  Near  the  mill  lay  the  PueHa  de  los 
Molinos  (PI.  G,  H,  3),  the  Btbanexde  of  the  Moors,  through  which 
the  Christian  army  entered  the  city  on  Jan.  2nd,  1492.  It  was  de- 
stroyed in  1838.  —  Or  we  may  turn  to  the  S.E.  and  cross  a  range  of 
hills  to  the  Eedueio  de  los  Franceses  (PI.  G,  H,  2),  a  redoubt  made 
by  the  French  at  the  beginning  of  the  century,  beyond  which  we  reach 
the  broad  road  between  the  Alhambra  and  the  Cemetery  (p.  368). 

b.'  The  Alhambra. 

L* Alhambra!  TAlhambra!  palais  que  lea  genies 
Out  dor^  comme  un  rdve  et  rempli  d'harmonies; 
Foiteresse  auz  cr^neaux  festonnds  et  croulans, 
Oil  Ton  entend  la  nuit  de  magiques  syllabes 
Quaiid  la  lune,  k  travers  lea  mille  arceaux  arabes, 
S^me  lea  murs  de  trifles  blancs!     (Victor  Hugo.) 

The  Alhambra  occupies  the  plateau  of  the  Monte  de  la  Assabica, 
which,  as  already  indicated  At  p.  333,  stretches  from  E.  to  W.,  is 
bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  Barro,  and  on  the  S.  is  separated  by  the 
VaUe  de  la  Aesabica  from  the  Monte  Mauror,  with  the  Campo  de  los 
Martires  (p.  366)  and  the  Torres  Bermejas  (p.  352).  Its  main  axis  is 
cut  across  near  its  middle  by  a  second  ravine,  the  Cktesta  del  Bey  Chico 
(p.  343),  which  isolates  the  Alhambra  hill  on  the  £.  from  the  Cerro 
del  Sol  (p.  333),  at  the  base  of  which  lies  the  Generalife  (p.  367). 
The  plateau  has  a  length  of  about  800  yds.  and  a  breadth  of  about 
200  yds.,  and  is  thus  about  the  same  size  as  that  of  the  Castle  of 
Sagunto  (p.  250),  like  which  it  seems  intended  by  nature  as  the  ffite 
of  a  fortress.  The  whole  of  this  plateau  was  surrounded  by  a  mas- 
sire  wall,  strengthened  with  numerous  towers.  The  strongly  marked 
and  narrow  promontory  at  the  W.  end  bears  the  Alecudba,  or  citadel. 
This  is  separated  from  the  Alhambra  proper,  the  Palace  of  the  Sultans, 
by  a  small  glacis  named  the  Plaza  de  los  Aljibes.  This,  again,  is  ad- 
Joined  on  the  S.£.  by  the  Alhambra  Alto,  with  the  quarters  of  the 
courtiers  and  officials.  This  threefold  division  is  apparent  in  many 
other  establishments  of  the  middle  ages.  Thus  the  commanderies 
of  the  Teutonic  Order  in  Prussia  consisted  of  a  strong  'Hochschloss' 
or  citadel,  a  'Mittelschloss*,  occupied  by  the  commander,  and  a 
^Yorburg',  for  the  less  important  members  of  the  post.  The  Moors 
named' the  entire  space  within  the  circuit  of  the  wall  Medinatal- 
hamrA.  or  the  *Eed  Town',  from  the  colour  of  the  stone  used  in  its 


350   BouU39.  ALHAMBRA.  HiHofy. 

bnlldings.  The  soil  consists  of  a  mixture  of  clay  and  marl,  permeated 
with  oxide  of  iron,  to  which  the  scientific  name  otAlhambra  Conglom- 
erate has  been  assigned. 

The  eariy  History  of  the  Alhambra  is  shrouded  in  obscurity. 
Arab  historians  assert  that  Sauwdr,  the  Wall  (viceroy)  of  the  Caliph 
of  Cordova,  constzncted  fortifications  on  the  site  of  the  present  Al- 
cazaba  about  l^e  year  889,  while  engaged  in  a  struggle  with  the 
rebellious  Arabs  of  Elvira.  In  1144  the  Berbers  entrenched  them- 
selves here  when  they  rebelled  against  the  Almoravides  (p.  335). 
In  1162  the  Alcazaba  formed  the  last  refuge  of  Ibn  MardatUah  of 
Valencia ,  who ,  in  league  with  the  Christians  and  the  Jews  of 
Granada,  wrested  the  possession  of  the  city  from  the  Almohades 
(p.  335)  for  a  short  time,  but  was  ultimately  overpowered  by  the 
troops  of  'Abd  el-Miimln.  The  Albaicin  was  the  royal  seat  of  the 
dynasty  of  the  Zirites  (comp.  p.  336),  but  Mohammed  J,  (d.  1272), 
the  first  of  the  Nasrides,  selected  the  Alcazaba  of  the  Alhambra  as 
his  residence.  He  was  the  originator  of  the  motto  *  Wala  ghaliba 
iU  Allah'  ('there  is  no  conqueror  but  God'),  which  is  so  conspicuous, 
along  with  the  ^phu  ultra'  of  Charles  Y.,  among  the  inscriptions  of 
the  Alhambra.  Mohammed  11.  (1272-1302)  continued  his  father's 
work,  and  Mohammed  III,  (1302-9)  built  the  Alhambra  Mosque 
(p.  366).  Abu:i'Wa:iXd  Itma'U  (1309-25)  was  the  first  to  erect  a 
small  palace  beyond  the  Alcazaba,  but  YHsufl,  (1333-64)  tore  the 
whole  of  this  down  with  the  exception  of  the  Patio  del  Mexuar 
(p.  362).  Yi^suf  began  the  building  of  the  Palace  of  Comares  or  of 
the  Court  of  the  Myrtles ;  he  completed  the  Torre  de  Comares  and 
the  baths,  and  seems  also  to  have  constructed  the  enclosing  wall 
round  the  entire  hill,  with  its  23  towers.  Mohammed  V,  (1364-91) 
has  the  glory  of  building  the  finest  parts  of  the  whole  structure,  In- 
cluding the  Court  of  the  Myrtles,  the  Cuarto  de  Machuca  to  the  N.W., 
and  the  Court  of  the  Lions.  The  decoration  of  the  Tower  of  the  In- 
fantas, exhibiting  the  first  traces  of  the  decline  of  Moorish  art,  dates 
from  the  reign  of  Mohammed  VII.  (1392-1408).  No  other  addition 
was  made  to  the  Alhambra  during  the  15th  cent. ;  the  kings  of  that 
period  were  content  to  keep  in  preservation  what  already  existed. 

After  the  surrender  of  Granada  to  the  Christians,  the  palace  and 
the  Alcazaba  became  the  private  property  of  the  'Catholic  Kings\ 
while  the  less  important  buildings  were  presented  to  the  most  pro- 
minent actors  in  the  successful  campaign.  Granada  became  the 
favourite  residence  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  and  they  took  the 
liveliest  interest  in  the  buildings  of  the  Alhambra.  At  their  instance 
the  Count  de  Tendilla,  the  first  Captain-General  of  the  city  and 
Alcaide  of  the  Alhambra,  had  the  whole  of  the  internal  decorations 
restored  by  expert  workmen,  while  he  also  strengthened  all  the 
parts  of  the  walls  and  towers  that  required  it.  The  upshot  of  Char- 
les V.'s  visit  to  Granada  (1526)  was  less  happy.  In  spite  of  the 
fact  that  he  knew  well  how  to  appreciate  the  marvels  of  Moorish 


mtkfry.  ALHAMBRA.  39.  RouU.   351 

Art,  M  evldenoed  by  liis  exolamation  ^^degffraeiado  de  el  que  tal  per- 
dio*  (^unhappy  he  who  lost  all  this'),  he  nevertheless  decided  to 
erect  within  the  Alhambra  enclosure  a  new  palace,  adapted  more 
expressly  to  the  requirements  of  a  later  age.  To  make  room  for  this 
were  sacrificed  the  chambers  on  the  S.  side  of  the  Court  of  the  Myr- 
tles, the  Zaguan  of  the  Palace  of  the  Court  of  the  Lions,  the  Rauda 
(p.  360),  and  the  greater  part  of  the  Cuarto  de  Machuca,  then 
occupied  by  his  architect  Machuca  and  as  a  stonemason's  yard.  The 
Sala  de  los  Moc&rabes  (p.  359)  and  the  Court  of  the  Lions  were 
injured  by  a  powder-explosion  in  1591,  but  the  damage  was  repaired 
as  well  as  might  be.  The  period  of  total  neglect  and  decay  of  the 
famous  Moorish  palace  began  in  1718,  when  Philip  V.  deprived  the 
Marques  de  Mondtfjar,  the  descendant  of  Count  Tendilla  and  hered- 
itary Alcaide  of  the  Alhambra,  of  his  office,  and  converted  to  his 
own  use  the  revenues  assigned  for  the  preservation  of  the  building. 
In  1812  the  evacuating  French  troops  decided  to  blow  up  the 
^fortress'  of  the  Alhambra.  The  towers  between  the  Gate  of  Justice 
(p.  353)  and  the  water-tower  had  already  been  destroyed,  when  the 
main  part  of  the  palace  was  saved  from  annihilation  by  the  presence 
of  mind  of  a  Spanish  soldier,  who  secretly  cut  the  fuse.  The  Al- 
hambra then  became  a  place  of  refuge  for  all  sorts  of  homeless 
vagrants ;  the  water-basin  in  the  Court  of  the  Myrtles  was  used  down 
to  1833  as  a  ^lavadero'  for  washerwomen.  The  first  attempts  at 
purification  were  made  by  Joai  Contrerw  (d.  1847)  in  1828,  and  in 
1830  Ferdinand  VII.  granted  a  yearly  subvention  of  50,000  reales 
(5002.)  for  the  restoration  of  the  Moorish  palace.  This  was  the  begin- 
ning of  the  extensive  restorations  that  have  since  been  carried  on  by 
Jos^  Contreras,  his  son  Rafael  (d.  1890),  and  his  grandson  MaHamo : 
—  restorations  that  have  at  any  rate  prevented  the  farther  decay 
of  the  building,  if  not  in  themselves  always  in  the  best  of  taste. 
The  earthquake  of  1884  did  little  damage  to  the  Alhambra,  and  the 
effects  of  the  carelessly-caused  fire  of  Sept.  15th,  1890,  were  prac* 
tically  confined  to  the  vaulting  of  the  Sala  de  la  Barca  (p.  358). 

It  is  hardly  necessary  to  remind  our  readers  of  Wa$hmgtw*  Irving"'* 
delightful  'Tales  of  the  Alhambra",  which  were  partly  written  on  the  spot 
(comp,  p.  345).  The  visitors"  book  containing  Irving  s  autograph  is  still 
shown  by  the  custodian  of  the  Alhambra  Palace.  A  series  of  magnificent 
yiews  of  the  Alhambra  is  given  in  the  monumental  work  of  Jul$$  Oourjf 
and  Owen  Jane*^  published  at  London  in  1842  ('Plans,  Elevations,  Sections, 
and  Details  of  the  Alhambra,  from  drawings  taken  on  the  spot').  The 
^ Court  of  the  Alhambra",  constructed .  by  Mr.  Owen  Jones  at  the  Crystal 
Palace,  Sydenham,  gives  an  excellent  idea  of  the  decoration  of  the  Al- 
hambra; and  in  the  small  handbook  describing  it  he  gives  the  gist  of  the 
text  of  his  large  work. 

The  shortest  way  to  the  Alhambra  is  the  Calle  de  Gomeres 
(Pl^  E,  4,  3),  which  ascends  steeply  between  the  heights  of  the  Al- 
cazaba  and  the  Tones  Bermejas  and  ends  at  the  Puerta  de  \%% 
Granadas,  the  main  entiancc  to  the  Alhambia  Park. 


352  BouteSO.  ALHAMBRA.  Park, 

The  Pa«rta  de  las  OraaadM  (PI.  1 ;  E,  3),  erected  by  Pedro 
Maehuea  (p.  364),  on  the  site  of  the  Moorish  Bib  AlanjcWj  is  a 
somewhat  heavy  building  in  the  form  of  a  triumphal  arch,  with 
Tuscan  columns  and  the  arms  of  Charles  Y .  At  the  top  are  three 
open  pomegranates  (p.  336).  It  stands  near  the  middle  of  the  wall, 
now  for  the  most  part  removed,  which  united  the  Alcazaba  (p.  354) 
with  the  ToBBSS  Be&mbjas,  on  the  Monte  Mauror,  The  latter,  now  a 
military  prison,  were  erected  by  the  Moors,  perhaps  at  the  same 
time  as  the  Alcazaba,  and  restored  in  the  13th  and  16th  centuries. 

The  *ToBBX8  Bebmkjas  (PI.  P,  8;  'Vermilion  Towerg*)  should  be 
visited  on  the  way  back  from  the  Alhambra  or  Oeneralife  for  the  sake 
of  the  picturesqae  view  they  command.  The  path  to  them  diverges  from 
the  Cuesta  de  las  Oruces  (see  below),  a  little  to  the  B.  of  the  Puerta  de 
las  Oranadas.  Visitors  are  admitted  on  application  to  the  sentinel.  The 
extensive  hoildings,  including  large  cisterns,  undei^ound  stables,  and 
casemates  for  2(X)  men,  give  an  excellent  insight  Into  the  Moorish  art  of 
fortification.  A  steep  staircase  ascends  to  the  platform  (atot4a)  of  the 
chief  tower,  whence  the  best  view  is  enjoyed.  —  The  Pumrta  del  Sol  or 
Bib  J£ctttr6r^  removed  in  1867,  lay  below  the  Torres  Bermejas,  to  the  S.W. 
At  the  foot  of  the  hill,  at  the  Cruz  de  Mondijar^  some  Koman  graves  were 
discovered  in  1829  and  1867. 

The  Alhambra  Park  {Alameda  de  la  Alhambra;  PI.  F,  3,  2), 
a  *sacred  grove'  of  a  unique  character,  occupies  the  floor  and  slopes 
of  the  Assabica  valley  (p.  349).  Its  trees  are  almost  exclusively 
elms,  brought  by  the  Duke  of  Wellington  from  England  in  1812 ; 
and  they  are  kept  fresh  and  green  by  the  waters  of  the  DarrOy  con- 
ducted to  the  park  by  the  Acequia  de  la  Alhambra  ot  del  Bey,  which 
diverges  from  the  river  at  the  secularized  convent  of  Jestu  del  ValU, 
5  M.  above  Granada.  The  murmuring  sound  of  running  water  is 
heard  here  all  day  long.  The  thickly-planted  trees,  the  home  of 
innumerable  nightingales,  stand  like  lofty  columns  of  living  green 
and  form  an  impenetrable  roof  of  foliage,  through  the  topmost  twigs 
of  which  the  storm-winds  often  pipe  and  whistle  while  below  all 
is  calm  and  still.  In  early  spring,  and  especially  In  March,  when 
the  rays  of  the  sun  can  pierce  the  leafless  boughs  of  the  elms,  the 
ground  is  covered  with  a  luxuriant  carpet  of  verdure,  which  dis- 
appears as  summer  advances. 

In  the  Valley  of  Assabica  lay  the  J/alr&ara,  or  burial-place  of  the 
Moorish  kings,  where  Mohammed  I.  and  most  of  the  other  Kasrides  were 
interred.  Boabdil  was  permitted  by  Ferdinand  and  Isabella  to  transfer 
their  remains  to  Mondiijar,  in  the  valleys  of  the  Alpujarras. 

Three  avenues  begin  at  the  Puerta  de  las  Granadas.  To  the 
right  is  the  Cubsta  de  las  Cbucbs,  which  ascends  slowly  along  the 
S.  verge  of  the  park  to  the  Alhambra  Hotels  (p.  332).  To  the  left 
is  the  somewhat  trying  Guesta  Empedrada  ,  the  oldest  approach  to 
the  palace,  which  ends  at  the  Puerta  Judiciaria  (p.  353).  In  the 
middle  is  the  easy  gradient  of  the  Main  Avenue  ,  constructed  in 
1831,  which  leads  past  the  Fuente  de  la  Palma  (PI.  2;  F,  3),  the 
Fuente  de  lot  Tres  Pieot  (PI.  3 ;  F,  2),  and  the  Fuente  del  Tomate 
(PI.  4 ;  F,  2),  to  the  Alhambra  Hotels ,  while  it  is  also  connected 
vith  the  Puerta  Judiciaria  by  side -roads  diverging  to  the  left. 


Putrta  Judiciaria.  ALHAMBRA.  3.9.  Boutt,   353 

Walkers ,  making  their  first  visit  to  the  Alhamhra ,  may  follow  the 
main  ayenue  to  the  second  fountain  and  then  turn  to  the  left  The 
only  entrance  for  carriages  is  the  Puerta  del  Carril  (PI.  6;  F,  2), 
which  was  constructed  during  the  erection  of  Charles  Y.'s  palace. 
In  the  Gaefta  Empedrada,  to  the  left,  a  little  below  the  Puerta  Ju- 
diciaria,  is  the  Filar  de  Carloe  duinto,  also  known  as  the  Filar  del 
Marquis  de  Mondijary  after  its  constructor,  ^the  second  Alcaide  under 
Charles  Y.  The  tasteful  Renaispanoe  fountain  was  erected  by  Pedro 
Machuca  (p.  364)  in  1545  abd  restored  in  1624;  it  is  adorned  with  the 
motto  of  Charles  V.  Cplut  ouUre")  and  with  heads  carved  by  Alonto  de 
Menu  to  typify  the  three  rivers  of  Granada:  the  Darro,  the  Oenil,  and  the 
Beiro.  The  water  of  the  fountain  supplies  the  quarters  Of  Gom^res  and 
Churra  (p.  334),  which  lie  immediately  below  it.  The  Pilar ,  the  'Round 
■  Tower'  (to  the  left),  and  the  entrance  tower  of  the  Alhambra  (above)  unite 
to  form  a  very  imposing  group. 

The  *Faerta  Judiciaria  (PI.  5;  E,  F,  3),  a  tower-gateway 
erected  according  to  the  inscription  by  Yusuf  I.  in  1348  and  called 
by  the  Moors  the  Bth  Kharea  or  *Qate  of  the  Law\  deserves  partic- 
ular attention.  Like  many  of  the  other  towers  of  the  Alhambra, 
it  is  practically  a  building  by  itself,  with  two  gates  (an  inner  and 
an  outer),  connected  by  a  passage  purposely  made  as  tortuous  as 
possible  to  facilitate  its  defence.  It  is  67  ft.  in  height  and  48  ft.  in 
width.  About  half  of  its  eleyation  is  occupied  by  the  horseshoe- 
shaped  Outer  Oate,  above  which  is  carved  a  hand  with  outstretched 
fingers,  a  symbol  ficequently  used  both  in  the  Orient  and  in  S.  Europe 
to  avert  the  evil  eye.  Above  the  Inner  Archway  is  figured  a  key, 
the  symbol  of  power.  A  current  superstition  asserted  that  the 
Moorish  kingdom  of  Granada  would  defy  all  attacks  until  the  hand 
on  the  outer  gate  grasped  this  key.  A  wooden  figure  of  the  Virgin 
was  added  at  the  inner  gate  after  the  conquest.  The  massive  wooden 
doors  are  shod  with  iron  and  strengthened  with  *pasadoTe8' ;  the 
old  iron  lock  is  very  large  and  heavy. 

In  the  inner  passage-way  of  the  $;ate  Is  an  Altar ,  erected  in  1588  for 
the  use  of  the  guards.  On  the  wall  is  faatened  a  marble  tablet  bearing  a 
long  Spanish  Inscription^  originally  in  the  Plaza  de  los  Aliibes  (p.  854), 
which  relates  the  circumstances  attending  the  surrender  of  Granada:  'Los 
muy  altos  catdlicos  y  muy  poderosos  Sefiores  Don  Fernando  y-Dona  Isabel, 
Rey  y  Reyna,  nuestros  Senores,  conquistaron  por  fuerza  de  armas  este 
reino  y  ciudald  de  Granada:  la  cual  despues  de  haber  tenido  S.  A.  en 
persona  sitiada  mucho  tiempo,  el  rey  moro  Muley-Hacen  les  entregd  con 
su  Alhambra  y  otras  fuerzas  i  dos  dias  de  Enero  de  mil  cuatrocientos 
Doventa  y  dos-  Este  mismo  dia  68.  AA.  pusieron  en  ella  por  su  Alcaide 
y  Capitan  6.  Don  Inigo  Lopez  de  Mendoza,  Conde  de  Tendllla,  su  vasallo^ 
al  cual,  partiendo  88.  A  A.  de  aqui,  dejaron  en  la  dicha  Alhambra  con 
quinientos  caballos  e  mil  peones ;  y  a  los  moros  mandaron  88.  AA.  quedar 
en  sua  casas  en  la  ciudad  y  sus  alcarrias,  como  primero  estaban.  Este 
dicho  Conde  por  mandamiento  de  88.  AA.  hizo  hazer  este  aJjibe.'* 

From  the  Puerta  Judiciaria  a  narrow  walled  path  ascends  to  the 
(right)  HotLse  of  Mariano  Contreras  (PI.  7;  E,  3),  the  'Conservador 
de  la  Alhambra'.  Incorporated  with  the  N.  wing  of  this  building  is 
the  *Pnerta  del  Vino,  so  named  from  the  wine  stored  here  in  the 
16th  century.  This  gate  probably  formed  the  main  "W.  entrance 
of  the  Alhamhra  Alia  (p.  349).     A  wall,  of  which  remains  were 

Baedeker's  Spain.  23 


354   BouU39.  ALHAMBRA.  AUatab^i, 

reeentiy  found  in  the  8.  pari  of  the  palace  of  Oharleg  Y.  (p.  364), 
teems  to  have  connected  the  Pnerta  del  Yino  with  the  Paerta  de 
Hierro  (PI.  22;  p.  366)  and  to  separated  the  AleaEaba,  the  Royal 
Palace,  and  the  Principal  Mosqne  (^p.  366)  from  the  more  plebeian 
part  of  the  Alhambra  settlement. 

A  key  i§  scalptared  above  tbe  Wine  Gate  alM>,  The  inscriptioii  over 
the  key  celebratea  the  ruler  of  Granada  under  the  general  and  freqnently 
recarrinc  title  of  Abu  *Abdallah  Algani  bil-lah.  It  begina  with  the  words : 
'I  flee  to  God  for  shelter  from  Satan,  the  pelted  with  atones*  —  an  allnaion 
to  the  legend  in  the  Koran  that  Abraham  pat  the  devil  to  flight  by 
throwing  atones. 

At  the  top  of  the  hill  lies  the  wide  Plaza  de  i/>8  Aijibss 
(PI.  8;  E,  3),  named  from  the  Cittern  (aljihe,  Arab,  al^jibh),  situ- 
ated to  the  N.,  below  the  terrace,  and  constmcted,  accoiding  to 
the  inscription  on  the  Gate  of  the  Law,  by  Count  Tendilla  at  the 
command  of  the  ^Catholic  Kings'.  The  cistern,  which  is  100  ft.  long, 
20  ft.  wide,  and  26  ft.  high,  is  filled  with  filtered  water  from  the 
Darro.  The  inside  is  shown  to  visitors  only  on  certain  fixed  days 
in  January.  The  level  of  the  plaza,  which  was  originally  named 
the  Plaza  del  Pahlofj  was  raised  about  16  ft.  in  consequence  of  the 
construction  of  Charles  Y.'s  palace.  It  is  now  adorned  with  beauti- 
ful hedges  of  myrtle.  On  the  E.  side  stand  the  Moorish  Palace 
(p.  355)  and  the  externally  more  imposing  Palace  of  the  Christian 
Emperor  (p.  364).  To  the  W.  (left)  is  the  great  facade  of  the 
Alcazaba,  with  the  Torre  Quehrada  (PI.  10;  E,  3)  and  the  Torre 
del  Homenaje  (PL  11 ;  85  ft.  high).  To  the  N.  we  look  down  into 
the  depths  of  the  Darro  valley. 

The  Alcaz&ba  (PI.  E,  3),  formerly  better  known  as  the  Alhizan 
(Arab.  oL-kataba^  the  citadel:  aZ-ftim,  the  fortress),  lies  about  450 ft. 
above  the  Plaza  Nueva  (p.  342).  Except  on  the  £•  side,  the  face 
of  the  hill  is  very  steep;  at  the  N.E.  corner  it  is  so  sheer  as  to  make 
the  foundations  of  the  fortress-walls  appear  very  precarious  (p.  355). 
Its  only  entrance  now  Is  the  Pueria  de  la  Alcazaba  (PI.  9;  E,  3), 
in  the  S.W.  angle  of  the  Plaza  de  los  Aljibes.  In  former  days, 
however ,  it  could  also  be  entered  directly  from  the  Darro  side  by 
the  Paerta  de  las  Armas  (PI.  12;  E,  3)  on  the  N.W.  (comp.  p.  343). 
The  whole  inside  of  the  castle  is  now  occupied  by  garden-beds. 
Almost  the  only  remains  of  the  original  building  are  the  dilapidated 
enclosing  walls,  with  their  massive  towers,  and  the  so-called  Adarves^ 
or  ramparts  on  the  outside.  The  structure  of  the  walls  recalls  at 
many  points  the  concrete  work  of  the  Romans. 

At  the  W.  extremity  of  the  Alcazaba ,  above  the  Plaza  de  la 
Ariilleria  (PI.  14;  E,  3),  stands  the  *Torre  de  la  Vela  (PI.  13; 
E,  3),  the  Moorish  Ohafarj  a  *  watch-tower'  85  ft.  high,  on  which 
the  three  ^pendones'  of  the  'Catholic  Kings'  were  displayed  for  the 
first  time  at  8  p.m.  on  Jan.  2ud,  1492.  From  the  platform  at  the 
top  rises  a  turret  (La  Espadana) ,  struck  by  lightning  in  1881  but 

''  restored ,  which  contains  the  Campana  la  Vela ,  a  huge  bell, 


Moorish  Palace,  ALHAMBRA.  39,  Route,   355 

cast  in  1773  and  weighing  nearly  12  tons.  During  the  night,  from 
2*/2  hrs.  after  the  *Oracion'  until  daybreak ,  this  bell  is  rang  every 
5  min.  to  regulate  the  opening  and  shutting  of  the  irrigation  chan- 
nels in  the  vega  (comp.  p.  331). 

The  ♦ViBW  from  the  Torre  de  la  Vela  is  very  extensi-re.  At  our  feet 
lies  the  entire  city  of  Granada.  To  the  left,  beyond  the  Alhambra  Park, 
rise  the  Torres  Bermejas;  to  the  right,  beyond  the  Darro,  is  the  Al- 
baicin.  In  front  of  us  extends  the  green  and  almost  exactly  circular  vega, 
enclosed  by  brown  and  sun- burnt  ranges  of  hills.  To  the  8.E.  is  the 
Sierra  Nnada^  where  the  D9m<njo^  Teteroy  TrOenque.  and  other  peaks  rise 
conspicuously.  To  the  S.  and  S.W.  are  the  Sierra  de  Almijara,  the  Sierra 
Tejea^  and  the  Sierra  de  Alhamaj  with  the  peak  of  Monte  Vivet  in  front. 
To  the  W.  are  Santa  Fi  (p.  831)  and  the.  mountains  of  Loja  (p.  330). 
To  the  H.W.,  and  more  distant,  are  the  SUrra  de  Parapanda  (p.  980)  and 
the  Bim^a  de  Colomera  or  de  Moclin^  with  the  'Cortadura*  to  the  left, 
above  the  three  isolated  peaks  of  the  Sierra  de  Elvira.  To  the  N.  rises 
the  Sierra  de  Jarana.  In  the  foreground  to  the  E.  are  the  Alhambra 
Palaoe,  the  Palace  of  Charles  V.,  the  church  of  Santa  Maria  (p.  865),  the 
Franciscan  Convent  (p.  365),  the  Generalife  (p.  367),  and  the  Silla  del 
Horo  (p.  368),  on  the  Ceiro  del  Sol. 

The  *Jabdin  de  lob  Adabves  (PL  16}  E,  3),  laid  out  on  the 
S.  teixace,  a  lomantic  spot  with  venerable  ivy,  climbing  vines,  and 
other  plants  growing  on  trellises,  affords  views  of  the  park,  the 
city,  the  vega,  and  mountains,  which  are  more  picturesque  though 
less  extensive  than  that  from  the  Torre  de  Vela.  It  is  entered  by 
a  small  door  to  the  left  of  the  Puerta  de  la  Alcazaba,  recognized 
by  the  iron  scallop-shells  on  it. 


The  Moorish  **Palace  of  the  Alhambra  (adm.,  see  p.  333; 
comp.  the  accompanying  ground-plan),  now  national  property  and 
generally  known  as  the  Casa  RecUy  abuts  on  the  N.E.  angle  of  the 
Plaza  de  los  Aljibes  (p.  354).  Its  exterior,  like  that  of  all  Arab 
buildings,  is  very  unimposing,  and  it  is,  moreover,  thrown  entirely 
into  the  shade  by  the  immense  palace  of  Charles  Y.  (p.  364).  The 
low-lying  modern  entrance  (Entrada  Moderna),  to  the  left  of  the 
emperor's  palace,  is  also  very  unpretentious. 

In  buildiug  the  Alhambra  great  difficulty  was  caused  by  the 
configuration  of  the  ground,  which  slopes  rapidly  from  the  Al- 
cazaba towards  the  E.  and  from  the  imperial  palace  towards  the 
N.  Even  the  circuit  wall  of  the  hill,  against  which  the  palace  abuts, 
stands  at  this  point,  not  on  the  margin  of  the  plateau,  but  on  the 
slope  just  below.  Thus  considerable  substructions  were  necessary 
to  secure  uniformity  of  level  for  the  Cuarto  de  Machuca  (p.  3631, 
the  Court  of  the  Myrtles  (p.  357),  and  the  Court  of  the  Lions  (p.  359), 
the  three  main  parts  of  the  edifice.  The  other  parts  of  the  palace 
have  been  adapted  to  the  configuration  of  the  site.  We  have  to 
descend  a  few  steps  to  reach  the  Patio  del  Mexuar,  while  the  baths, 
the  Patio  de  la  Reja,  and  the  Patio  de  Daraxa  are  in  the  basement. 

Since  the  building  of  the  Alhambra,  as  indicated  at  p.  350,  was 
spread  over  at  least  a  century,  the  structure  naturally  reflects  thr 
political  and  social  development  of  the  country.   The  original  buil(' 

23* 


356   RouU39.  ALHAMBRA.  Moorish 

lugs  to  the  N.,  of  which  the  group  round  the  Mexuar  Court  are  alone 
extant,  corresponded  to  the  limited  demands  of  a  small  state  and 
a  small  court.   The  growing  power  of  Granada  was  reflected  in  the 
proud  dignity  of  the  Palace  of  Comares  and  the  Court  of  the  Myrtles 
—  official  buildings  that  could  not  fail  to  dazzle  the  entering  visitor. 
Here  the  ruler  lived  in  state  and  received  foreign  ambassadors ; 
here  all  important  state  assemblies   were  held.     The  Cuarto  de 
Machupa,  to  the  N.W.,  probably  shared  with  the  Generalife  (p.*  3673 
the  position  of  summer-residence  of  the  royal  family ,   while  the 
luxurious  Court  of  the  Lions,  to  the  S.E.,  was  the  winter-palace  of 
the  court  and  the  harem  of  the  king.  The  large  and  pompous  features 
of  the  Court  of  the  Myrtles  become  in  the  Court  of  the  Lions  small, 
elegant,  and  full  of  sensuous  beauty.  In  the  one  case  a  large  pond 
occupies  nearly  the  whole  of  the  court  j  in  the  other  the  eye  is 
charmed  by  the  play  of  interlacing  jets  of  water.   The  whole  char- 
acter of  the  decoration  is  playful  and  rich  to  excess. 

The  Arab  house,  like  the  house  of  classical  antiquity,  is 
simple  and  reserved  on  the  outside;  its  rooms  all  open  on  an 
internal  court.  The  building  was  enlarged  by  the  multiplication 
of  courts  and  rooms.  The  kings  of  Granada  thus  built  a  series  of 
palaces,  each  with  a  separate  entrance  and  a  court  of  its  own.  The 
Cuarto  de  Machuca,  the  Mexuar  (p.  362),  and  the  Patio  del  Mexuar 
were  entered,  according  to  the  travellers  Mdrmol  (1526)  and  Nava- 
gero  (p.  26),  by  a  zaguan  (fore- court)  to  the  N.  of  the  modern 
entrance.  The  Court  of  the  Myrtles  was  reached  by  steps  ascending 
from  the  Mexuar  Court,  while  the  doorway  of  the  Palace  of  the  Court 
of  the  Lions  was  in  the  corner  between  Charles  V.'s  palace  and  the 
cistern  and  thus  to  the  S.  of  the  present  entrance. 

In  the  Mosque  of  Cordova  (p.  309)  we  see  the  art  of  the  Moors  still 
within  the  sphere  of  ancient  traditions  and  at  the  same  time  under 
the  influence  of  Byzantium.  The  buildings  of  Seville  (such  as  the 
Giralda  and  the  old  facade  of  the  Alcazar,  pp.  400,  398)  belong  to 
a  second  period,  which  shows  the  first  attempts  to  create  an 
independent  art  of  their  own.  These  attempts  attained  perfection 
and  completion  in  the  Alhambra.  In  this  third  stage  of  development 
the  genius  of  the  Moors  has  produced  the  utmost  that  it  was  capable 
of.  Its  creations  stimulate  us  all  the  more  because  they  offer  an 
utter  contrast  to  the  Christian  outlook  and  to  the  civilisation  of  the 
Occident.  Their  constructive  value  is  small  j  the  material,  chiefly 
wood  and  plaster,  is  by  no  means  solid  and  is  frequently  employed 
with  illusive  intent ;  the  laws  of  architectonics  seem  often  to  exist 
for  the  architect  only  that  he  may  evade  or  deride  them.  This 
Moorish  palace  comes  to  us  like  the  resuscitation  and  artistic  glor- 
ification of  a  far-distant  past ;  the  tent  of  the  nomad  Arab  celebrates 
a  late  resurrection  in  its  halls.  The  thin  and  fragile  marble  columns, 
on  which  rest  large  and  apparently  heavy  masses  of  masonry,  are 
an  imitation  of  the  tent-poles ;  the  brilliant  colours  of  the  *arabesque' 


Palace,  ALHAMBRA.  39.  Rovie.   357 

oTnamentation  is  an  echo  of  the  gay  patterns  of  the  Oriental  carpets 
witb  wbich  the  tent-interiors  were  draped.  The  strange  ^stalactite* 
or  *  honeycomb'  vaulting  of  the  domes  alone  seems  like  a  new  and 
Independent  invention,  in  which  the  step-like  arrangement  of  the 
numerous  members,  one  ranged  above  another  without  visible  sup- 
port, seems  due  rather  to  the  careAil  calculation  of  the  mathema^- 
cian  than  to  the  fertile  fancy  of  the  artist. 

The  fancy  of  the  Moorish  workman  runs  riot  in  the  restless 
play  of  the  lines  of  the  arabesques,  a  curious  blending  of  geometrical 
figures  and  severely  conventional  foliage,  which  appear  at  once  to 
combine,  to  intersect,  and  to  avoid  each  other  in  their  endless  and 
ever-new  convolutions.  The  plastic  reproduction  of  living  creatures 
is  not  only  forbidden  by  the  Koran  but  is  foreign  to  the  Arab 
nature.  This  is  the  explanation  of  the  lack  of  sculpture  and  the 
absence  of  any  intellectual  stimulus  connected  with  the  plastic  art. 
An  indifferent  substitute  for  sculpture  is  afforded  by  the  use  Of  in- 
scriptions, mainly  in  the  venerable  Cuflc  character,  as  borders  for 
enclosed  wall-spaces.  These  inscriptions  are  generally  either  of  a 
religious  nature  or  consist  of  verses  of  hyperbolic  poetry,  principally 
from  the  C<uida  of  Aben  Ztmric^  a  eulogy  of  King  Mohammed  Y. 

The  first  impression  of  the  visitor  to  the  Alhambra  is  seldom 
free  from  a  touch  of  disappointment.  It  is  therefore  desirable  to 
remember  how  much  has  been  destroyed  or  indifferently  restored. 
One  must  try  to  revive  in  imagination  the  original  colouring  of  the 
plaster  walls,  the  patterns  of  which  charmed  at  close  view  by  the 
complexity  of  their  design  and  at  a  distance  by  their  shimmering 
harmony  of  tint  and  tone.  We  must  picture  the  waterless  fountains 
as  playing  briskly,  the  empty  rooms,  'half  chamber  and  half  grotto\ 
as  gay  with  decoration,  brilliantly  illuminated,  and  enlivened  by 
picturesque  groups  of  visitors,  like  those  in  the  ceiling-paintings 
of  the  Sala  de  la  Justicia  (p.  360).  We  must  not  fail  to  advance 
to  the  open  windows  and  gaze  upon  the  world  without,  that  har- 
monizes 80  marvellously  with  the  scene  within.  Here,  where  fantasy 
rules  supreme,  we  must  look  around  us  through  her  eyes.  —  In  the 
following  description  we  begin  with  the  magnificent  structures  of 
the  Courts  of  the  Myrtles  and  of  the  Lions,  then  return  to  the  Patio 
del  Mexuar,  and  end  our  round  with  the  baths,  the  modern  rooms 
adjoining  the  Patio  deDaraxa,  the  'Toilette  Room  of  the  Queen',  and 
other  underground  chambers.  A  hurried  visitor  can  walk  through  all 
these  rooms  in  an  hour  ^  many  will  find  that  weeks  are  not  enough. 

The  *Coart  of  the  Myrtles  (Patio  de  la  Alberca  or  de  loa 
Arrayanet)  derives  its  name  from  the  pool  of  water  (alberca^  Arab. 
birkeh)  enclosed  by  hedges  of  myrtle  (meraa  de  arrayanes).  It  is  the 
central  point  of  the  Palacio  de  Gomares  (p.  356);  at  its  N.E.  end 
rises  the  great  fortified  tower  (p.  358),  while  to  the  S.W.  it  is  over- 
looked by  the  palace  of  Charles  V.,  which  lies  about  16  ft.  abov 


360   Route  39.  ALHAMBRA.  MckCHriBH 

with  a  roof  of  rich  banrel-Taulting  In  the  Renaissance  style  l>y  Slaa 
d€  Ledeama  (1614),  but  there  are  still  some  remains  of  the  oiri^uial 
dome.  The  mural  decorations,  in  red,  blue,  and  gold,  wejre  long^ 
concealed  by  a  coat  of  whitewash,  removed  in  1868. 

The  *Hall  of  the  Abencerrsges,  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Court  of 
the  Lions,  takes  its  name  from  the  noble  family  of  the  Abeneerrtzs^as, 
which  figures  so  prominently  in  the  later  history  of  the  Moorish 
kingdom  of  Granada  (comp.  p.  335).    The  story  goes  that  BoAlxiil 
incurred  the  enmity  of  the  Whole  tribe  by  beheading  its  principal 
members  in  this  room  on  account  of  an  intrigue  of  their  chief  Ham et 
with  Queen  Morayma  (comp.  p.  368).    We  enter  the  rectangular 
hall  by  beautiful  wooden  doors,  restored  in  1856  and  hung  on  pivots 
let  into  the  marble  floor  below  and  into  a  soffit  of  the  cross-beam 
above.    The  central  part  of  the  hall  rises  in  three  stages.    To  the 
right  and  left  are  exquisite  stalactite  arches  leading  to  two  alcoves, 
occupying  the  entire  width  of  the  hall  and  roofed  with  Gharmiog 
honeycomb  vaulting.   The  second  stage  consists  of  an  open  gallery 
with  eight  small  stalactite  cupolas,  so  arranged  as  to  convert  the 
uppermost  story  into  a  sixteen-sided  space,  softly  lighted  by  sixteen 
windows.  Above  these  windows  is  a  large  stalactite  celling,  enhan- 
cing the  fantastic  impression  of  the  whole  structure.  The  ornamenta- 
tion, partly  restored  in  the  16th  cent.,  is  of  extraordinary  grace  and 
delicacy.    The  middle  of  the  room  is  occupied  by  a  dodecagonal 
Fountainy  the  reddish-brown  stains  on  the  marble   of  which  are 
popularly  supposed  to  be  the  blood  of  the  Abencerrages.  The  water, 
like  that  of  the  fountain  in  the  Room  of  the  Two  Sisters  (p.  361), 
flows  off  through  small  channels  to  the  Fountain  of  the  Lions. 

The  Patinillo  and  the  Aljihe  (cistern),  adjoining  the  Hall  of  the  Aben- 
cerrages, like  the  Women't  Apartments  in  the  upper  story  of  the  Court  of 
the  Lions,  are  seldom  shown.  —  A  passage  adjoining  the  cistern  led  to 
the  remains  of  the  Binda  or  Royal  Sepulchral  Chapel  (closed).  This  build- 
ing, apparently  erected  by  Mohammed  V.,  consisted  of  an  ante-room  and 
three  chambers  with  the  tombs  of  Mohammed  II. ,  Ahu^l-Waltd  IsmaHl^ 
T&wf  /. ,  and  TUtuf  III  The  alabaster  tombstones  (loeas)  were  dis- 
covered in  1574  (comp.  p.  3S1).  Another  passage  connected  the  chapel 
•  with  the  upper  floor  of  the  Palace  of  the  Court  of  the  Lions. 

The  *Sala  de  la  Justioia  or  8ala  del  Tribunal^  more  correctiy 
termed  the  Sola  de  los  Reyes,  to  the  S.E.,  is  one  of  the  most  interesting 
apartments  adjoining  the  Lion  Court.  The  usual  name  rests  on  the 
groundless  assumption  that  the  sultans  dispensed  justice  here.  The 
hall  is  divided  into  seven  sections,  adjoined  by  seven  alcoves  or 
divans,  some  of  which  are  quite  dark.  It  is  connected  with  the 
Court  of  the  Lions  by  three  archways,  each  divided  by  two  columns. 
The  three  sections  opposite  the  archways  are  surmounted  by  lofty 
cupolas,  with  rows  of  windows.  Between  lie  two  lower  rooms,  while 
at  each  end  is  a  dusky  alcove.  With  its  honeycomb  vaulting  and 
stalactite  arches,  the  hall  resembles  a  fantastic  grotto.  It  has  been 
repeatedly  restored,  and  during  the  building  of  the  church  of  Santa 
Maria  (p.  365)  it  served  as  a  Christian  chapel. 


Palace,  ALfTAMBRA.  39.  Ro\de.  361 

The  three  lateral  recesses  corresponding  to  the  three  domed 
chambers  display  some  very  interesting  Pictures,  painted  in  al- 
buminons  colours  on  leather  nailed  to  the  wooilen  ceilings,  which 
'are  made  of  the  peralejo  or  white  poplar  of  Granada.  Those  in  the 
central  alcove  are  painted  on  a  golden  background,  the  others  on 
dark-blue  sprinkled  with  golden  stars.  The  contours  are  yery 
sharply  defined,  while  the  flat  surfaces  are  generally  filled  in 
with  one  colour  only.  At  a  later  period  the  pictures  recelYed  a 
coating  of  linseed-oil.  They  show  many  points  of  resemblance  to 
Italian  paintings  of  the  14th  cent.,  especially  in  the  costumes. 
The  ten  bearded  Moslems  in  the  painting  of  the  central  alcove  are 
probably  portraits  of  the  rulers  of  Granada  from  Mohammed  I.  to 
Abu  Sa'ld,  Hhe  Red'  (d.  1362).  According  to  other  authorities  they 
represent  a  Moorish  council  (mexuar).  The  other  two  paintings, 
with  scenes  of  the  chase  and  of  chivalry,  are,  perhaps,  merely  of 
decorative  intention. 

In  the  central  alcove  now  stands  a  Moorish  Water  Trough  (pila;  Ko.  4), 
lonff  preserved  at  the  foot  of  the  Torre  de  Vela  (p.  364)  and  adorned  with 
cnrioos  reliefs  of  eagles,  lions  devouring  stags,  and  the  like.  The  in- 
scription (1306)  refers  to  Kohammed  III.  To  judge  from  the  styUstio 
similarity  of  its  reliefs  to  those  of  the  water-trough  in  the  National 
Kasenm  at  Madrid,  we  h&ye  here  probably  to  do  with  a  copy  of  an  earlier 
work.  —  In  the  alcove  at  the  S.W.  end  of  the  hall  are  five  Slabs  of  Ala- 
boitor  (Nos.  1-3,  17,  18)  from  the  royal  tombs  of  the  lUnda  (p.  360). 

A  narrow  passage  (paiodizo)  on  the  N.E.  side  of  the  Lion  Court, 
opposite  the  Hall  of  the  Abencerrages,  ascends  to  the  — 

**Boom  of  the  Two  Siiters  (Sola  de  las  Dos  Hermanas),  which 
forms  a  beautiful  perspective  with  the  8ala  de  los  Ajimeees  and  the 
Mirador  de  Daraxa  (p.  362),  two  other  rooms  situated  at  a  little 
higher  level  but  in  the  same  axis. 

This  suite  of  rooms  seems  to  have  formed  the  winter  residence 
of  the  Sultana  and  the  royal  family.  The  main  room,  ascribed  to 
Aben  Cencid  (p.  359),  takes  its  name  from  two  large  and  equal-sized 
slabs  of  white  marble  (losas)  forming  part  of  the  pavement.  The 
decoration  of  the  Alhambra  probably  reaches  its  artistic  zenith  in 
this  room.  The  wooden  doors  are  of  exquisite  delicacy.  Round 
the  walls  runs  a  dado  of  the  finest  azulejos  (alieatados).  The  great 
glory  of  the  room  is,  however,  the  honeycomb  vaulting,  the  largest 
of  all  Arab  roofs  of  the  kind,  containing,  it  is  alleged,  no  fewer  than 
5000  cells,  each  differing  from  the  others  and  yet  all  combining  to 
form  one  whole  of  indescribable  symmetry  and  beauty. 

*The  walls  are  broken  by  niches  flanked  with  graceful  columns.  At 
every  corner  stalactite  pendants  and  fantastic  cell-formations  hang  from 
the  roof,  converting  the  square  hall  into  a  polygon.  Above  this  soars 
the  dome,  formed  of  innumerable  tiny  and  multiform  cells,  looking  as  if 
the  architect  had  been  helped  in  his  work  by  a  swarm  of  bees.  One  cell 
breaks  into  the  other,  climbs  over  its  head ,  and  is  in  its  turn  used  as 
the  frame-work  by  which  a  third  mounts  still  higher.  And  these  countless 
bells  and  domelets  are  not  content  to  soar  upwards  in  a  simple  pyram- 
idal form,  but  are  diverted  by  a  frolicsome  fancy  into  detours  of  the 
boldest  kind.    The  roof  doubles  back  on  itself,  follows  the  bisarre  hu 


362  Route  39,  ALHAMBRA.  MooHsh 

uouM  of  its  creator,  and  forms  large  vaults  out  of  the  combination  of 
smaller,  till  at  last  tbe  apex  Is  attained.  The  walls  are  adorned  with 
eqnal  plctnresqueness  and  fantasy.  The  lower  part  is  covered  with  dados 
gay  with  the  involved  convolutions  of  red,  green,  and  IHue  asnlejos. 
Above  these  are  brilliant  embroideries  on  a  ground  of  plaster  lace-work.* 

In  one  corner  of  the  room  is  the  famous  two-handled  *Alhambra 
Vase  (^el  jarro  de  la  Alhambra'),  which  an  ancient  tradition  avers  to 
have  been  found  in  the  palace  filled  with  gold.  From  the  17th  cent, 
until  recently  it  stood  in  the  Jardin  de  los  Adarves  (p.  355).  It  is 
4  ft.  4  in.  in  height,  dates  from  1320,  and  is  exquisitely  enamelled 
in  white,  blue,  and  gold.  The  animals  figured  on  it  are  apparently 
meant  for  gazelles.  There  Is  a  similar  vase  in  ithe  National  Museum 
at  Madrid  (p.  88). 

The  8ala  de  lo$  Ajimeeea  has  two  Sijimeces'  (N.E.)  and  a  fine 
ceiling.  To  the  left  is  a  modern  passage,  leading  to  the  Pelnador 
de  la  Reina  (p.  364)  and  the  Patio  de  la  Reja  (p.  364).  In  front  of 
us  is  the  entrance  to  the  so-called  — 

*Mirador  de  Baraza,  a  charming  little  chamber  with  three 
tall  windows  reaching  down  almost  to  the  floor,  the  wooden  jalou- 
sies (celosian)  of  which  were  adorned  with  coloured  crystals.  They 
formerly  looked  out  on  the  inner  garden  of  the  palace,  but  they  now 
give  on  the  attractive  Patio  de  Daraxa  (p.  363).  Opposite  is  the 
Pelnador  cle  la  Reina  (p.  364).  The  name  Daraxa,  meaning  *vestl- 
bule',  has  been  unaccountably  metamorphosed  Into  Lindaraja;  and 
thus  Washington  Irving  (comp.  p.  351)  was  led  to  speculate  about 
an  imaginary  Moorish  beauty,  Liodaraxa. 

An  inscription  in  the  room  runs:  Un  these  rooms  so  much  magni- 
ficence presents  itself  to  the  gazer,  that  the  eye  is  taken  captive  and  the 
mind  confused.  —  Light  and  colour  are  so  distributed  here,  that  you  may 
look  upon  them  at  the  same  time  as  one  and  yet  as  different'. 

We  now  return  through  the  Court  of  the  Lions  to  the  Court  of  the 
Myrtles  and  descend  on  its  N.W.  side,  as  indicated  at  p.  358,  through 
the  Zaguan  to  the  Patio  del  Mexuar,  which  lies  13  ft.  below  the 
level  of  the  large  court.  This,  the  oldest  part  of  the  Alhambra, 
generally  but  groundlessly  named  the  Patio  de  la  Mezquita,,  consists 
of  small  and  unadorned  chambers,  which'  yet  possess  a  stylistic 
charm  of  their  own.  On  its  N.E.  side  is  a  well-proportioned  Atrium^ 
the  columns  of  which  have  capitals  of  considerable  interest.  The 
horseshoe  arch  above  dates  from  1522.  Beyond  this  lies  the  Cuario 
Dorado,  the  Mud^jar  ornamentation  of  which  also  dates  no  farther 
back  than  the  16th  century. 

The  Mexuar  (Arab,  mtihwdry  council-chamber),  now  used  as 
a  Capilla,  was  reconstructed  for  its  new  function  in  1537-44  but 
was  not  actually  used  as  the  palace-chapel  till  1629  (comp.  p.  361). 
In  the  Moorish  period  this  may  have  been  an  audience  chamber; 
and  the  king,  or  the  cadi  as  his  representative,  also  administered 
justice  here.  In  the  Gallery^  which  was  then  probably  entered  ftrom 
the  Cuarto  Dorado,  the  ruler  assembled  the  most  eminent  of  his 
people  as  a  council  of  state. 


Palace.  ALHAMBRA.  39.  RouU.  363 

The  Altar  is  ftpparently  an  old  marble  chimney-piece,  purohased  at 
Genoa  in  1646  for  the  palace  of  Charles  V.  The  figures  of  Abundantia 
(formerly  taken  for  nymphs),  placed  in  the  corner  near  by,  formed  part 
of  its  plastic  adornment,  as  did  also  the  relief  of  Leda  with  the  swan. 
The  altar-piece,  an  Adoration  of  the  Magi»  dates  from  1680. 

A  modern  door  leads  from  the  Mexuar  to  the  old  Moosisk 
Chafbl  (Mosala  al  Aidi)^  built  by  Mohammed  V.  The  Mihrdb,  or 
pTayer-iiiche  (comp.  p.  314),  is  directed  towards  the  S.E.  This 
chapel  formed  part  of  the  Cuarto  de  Machuea  (p.  365),  which  lay 
to  the  N.W.  of  the  Patio  del  Mexuar.  Scarcely  anything  now  remains 
of  it,  and  the  site  is  occupied  by  gardens. 

We  return  to  the  Christian  chapel  and  cross  the  Mexuar  Court 
obliquely  to  the  Yiadneto,  an  underground  passage  leading  to  the 
Patio  de  la  Reja  (p.  364). 

The  *Viaduct'  forms  the  approach  to  the  Cellars  below  the  Torre  de 
Gomares,  once  occupied  by  the  keepers  of  the  palace,  and  to  the  8ala 
de  las  Ninfas,  below  the  Sal  a  de  la  Barca  and  so  called  from  the  two 
above-mentioned  statues,  which  were  formerly  kept  here.  It  also  led  to 
the  Passage  that  ran  round  the  inside  of  the  walls  of  the  whole  enclosure 
for  the  use  of  the  sentinels  and  other  defenders. 

At  the  end  of  the  viaduct  we  turn  to  the  right  and  reach  the 
"^Batlis  (Bano9)f  extensive  underground  apartments,  constructed  by 
Yusuf  I.  to  the  N.E.  of  the  Court  of  the  Myrtles.  We  first  enter  the 
Sola  de  las  Camas  or  de  los  Divanee,  used  for  undressing  and  for  re- 
posing after  the  bath.  It  contains  a  gallery  for  singers  and  two  alcoves 
for  couches.  The  inscriptions  and  the  mural  decorations  are  modern, 
the  latter  arbitrarily  restored  by  Rafael  Contreras.  More  interesting 
are  the  slender  columns  supporting  the  superstructure,  the  Moorish 
fountain,  and  the  mosaic  flooring.  This  room  is  followed  by  the 
Baths  themselves,  with  marble  tubs  and  a  main  room  corresponding 
to  the  Roman  Tepidarium.  The  heating  apparatus  ( color tfero)  re- 
sembled the  Roman  Hypocaustum,  but  has  been  destroyed. 

From  the  Sala  de  las  Camas  we  turn  to  the  right  into  the  ♦Patio 
de  Baraxa  (p.  362),  a  charming  court  shaded  by  orange-trees.  The 
Fountain^  placed  here  in  1626,  was  probably  brought  from  the  Patio 
del  Mexuar  (p.  362).  The  upper  basin ,  with  a  long  inscription, 
is  Moorish,  but  the  lower  part  dates  from  the  16th  century.  —  The 
Aposentos  de  Cablos  Quinto,  surrounding  this  court ,  were  con- 
structed by  order  of  Charles  V.  in  the  Moorish  palace-garden  (p.  362) 
and  adorned  (ca.  1537)  with  grotesques  in  the  style  of  the  logge  of 
the  Vatican  by  Julio  de  Aquiles  and  Alexander  Mayner,  pupils  of 
Raphael  and  Giovanni  da  Udine.  One  of  these  rooms  contains  the 
Alharnibra  Archives  ^  consisting  of  about  300  portfolios  with  the 
designs  and  accounts  of  the  artists  of  the  16th  cent,  employed  in  the 
construction  of  the  imperial  palace.  Another  contains  modern  out- 
line drawings  of  the  paintings  in  the  Sala  de  la  Justicia  (p.  360). 
The  last  of  the  suite  of  rooms  known  as  the  Solas  de  las  Frutas  was 
occupied  by  Washington  Irving  when  writing  his  charming  *Tales 
of  the  Alhambra'  in  1829  (comp.  p.  351).  —  To  the  S.W.,  beneath 


364  Route  39.  ALHAMBRA.        Charle$  V:$  Palaee. 

the  Room  of  the  Two  Sisters  (p.  361),  lies  the  8ala  de  los  Seereio$, 
with  interesting  acoustic  properties. 

Between  the  Patio  de  Daraxa  and  the  Torre  de  Gomares  (p.  368) 
lies  the  small  Patio  de  la  Beja,  built  In  1654-55  and  taking  its 
name  from  the  window-grilles  in  the  upper  story.  It  is  adorned 
with  a  fountain  and  four  cypresses.  —  The  staircase  in  the  N.  comer 
leads  to  the  Sala  de  los  Embajadores  (p.  358).  To  the  right  we 
proceed  through  a  modern  room  to  the  Cobsbdobbs  Modbbnos, 
connecting  the  Sala  de  los  Embajadores  with  the  Peinador  de  la  Reina. 
The  corridor  was  adorned  with  frescoes  by  Julio  de  Aquiles  and 
AUxcmder  Mayner  in  1537-39,  but  these  have  recently  been  remoyed. 

The  *Peinador  de  la  Beina,  in  the  upper  story  of  Ytksuf  I.'s 
Torre  de  Peinador ^  also  owes  its  existence  to  Charles  V.  The 
attractive  grotesques  (partly  restored  in  1624)  and  the  scenes  from 
the  campaign  against  Tunis  ri535;  sadly  scratched)  are  by  the  two 
artists  named  above  (1539-4d).  The  initials  F  and  Y  are  a  memorial 
of  the  visit  of  Philip  V.  and  Queen  Isabella,  whose  *dressing-room' 
or  *boudoir'  (peinador)  this  was.  The  view  is  superb.  The  marble 
slab  drilled  with  16  holes,  in  a  comer  of  the  room,  is  said  to  have 
been  used  for  the  admission  of  perfumes  but  may  be  a  primitive  form 
of  'register'  for  hot  air. 

The  large  •Palace  of  Charles  V.  (PI.  17;  E,  2),  to  the  S.W.  of 
the  Moorish  Palace  of  the  Alhambra,  was  a  result  of  Charles  V.'s 
visit  to  Qranada  (comp.  p.  351).  It  was  as  early  as  1526  that,  by 
his  instructions,  Pedro  Machuca,  an  artist  who  had  formed  himself 
at  Rome  under  the  influence  of  Raphael,  made  the  design  for  the 
magnificent,  though  never  completed  building.  The  style  resembled 
that  prevalent  in  Rome  at  the  height  of  the  Renaissance.  Large 
parts  of  the  old  Alhambra  were  sacrificed  for  the  new  edifice.  The 
cost  was  defrayed  with  the  tribute  paid  by  the  Moors  for  certain 
immunities  and  privileges  and  with  a  new  poll-tax  levied  from 
them.  At  the  time  of  Machuca's  death  (1550)  the  facades  (but  not 
the  portals)  and  the  foundation-walls  of  the  interior  were  complete. 
His  son  Luis  Machuca  (d.  1572)  continued  the  building  and  began 
the  magnificent  colonnaded  court  that  Pedro  had  designed  (not 
finished  till  1616).  The  uprising  of  the  Moriscoes  (1568)  inter- 
rupted the  work  for  15  years.  The  subsequent  operations  were 
carried  on  under  the  superintendence  (successively)  of  Juan  de 
Oreay  Juan  de  Mijares^  and  Pedro  Velaseo,  but  did  not  come  to  a 
definite  close  before  the  first  half  of  the  17th  century.  The  roof  was 
never  finished,  and  among  the  other  portions  that  remained  on 
paper  only  were  the  great  triumphal  arch  on  the  S.  side  and  the 
octagonal  chapel  in  the  N.E.  angle,  the  dome  of  which  was  to  rise 
above  all  the  other  buildings  of  the  Alhambra. 

The  building  forms  an  imposing  quadrangle,  207  ft.  square  and  53  ft. 
height.    On  the  S.  and  W.  are  two  handsome  portals.    The  groondfioor 


Santa  Maria.  ALHAMBRA.  39.  Route.   365 

of  massive  rustica  masonry  is  surmounted  by  an  upper  floor  in  the  Ionic 
style,  topped  with  a  Doric  cornice.  The  portals  (some  of  the  work  on 
which  is  very  fine)  and  the  rich  ornamentation  and  sculptures  in  serpent- 
ine from  the  Sierra  Nevada  or  the  marble  of  Ifacael  (p.  338)  and  the 
Sierra  de  Elvira,  are  due,  according  to  the  records  of  the  Archives  (p.  363), 
to  Juan  de  Orea,  Antonio  de  Levaly  Juan  de  Cahillana,  Andris  de  Oeampo, 
NieeoU  da  Corte^  and  other  artists.  Among  the  best  of  these  works  are 
the  charming  *Beliefs  with  scenes  of  battle  (Battle  of  Pavia?),  an  alleg- 
orical representation  of  the  Triumph  ot  Peace  (an  allusion  to  the  peace 
with  Francis  I.  of  France  ?) ,  and  the  trophies  and  winged  female  figures 
over  the  portals. 

The  Intssiob  (entr. ,  see  p.  368)  consists  of  a  series  of  rooms  built 
round  a  large  central  *Conrtj  which  is  circular  in  form,  with  a  diameter 
of  102  ft.  The  lower  stage  of  the  arcade  surrounding  this  court  is  in  the 
Doric  style,  the  upper  in  the  Ionic  (32  columns).  The  main  staircase, 
completed  in  1635,  is  in  the  N.W.  angle. 

To  the  S.E.  of  Charles  V.'s  palace,  ou  the  other  side  of  the 
Plaza  de  los  Aliimos,  stands  the  Insignificant  church  of  Santa  Maria 
(PI.  18;  E,  F,  2),  a  Renaissance  edifice  built  hy  Juan  de  Orea 
(p.  364)  and  Amhrosio  de  Vico  (p.  337)  in  1581-1618,  with  the  aid 
of  a  design  by  Herrera.  It  occupies  part  of  the  site  of  the  small 
Mezquita  Real,  built  by  Mohammed  III.  (p.  350)  and  removed  as 
insecure  in  1576.  The  first  mass  after  the  fall  of  Granada  was 
read  in  this  mosque. 

An  ancient  Visigothic  inscription  on  a  slab  of  white  marble,  let  into 
the  S.  wall  of  the  church,  above  the  second  door,  records  the  erection  of 
the  churches  of  SS.  Stephen,  Vincent,  and  John  under  Kings  Witeric  and 
Reecand*  A  stone  column,  erected  in  1590,  commemorates  the  death  of 
two  Christian  martyrs  in  1897. 

The  Galle  Real,  to  the  S.  of  Santa  Maria,  leads  to  the  Alhambra 
'Alta  (p.  349).  At  No.  43  are  the  scanty  remains  of  a  small  Moorish 
Bathj  built  by  Mohammed  III.  and  destroyed  about  1534.  —  Farther 
on  in  the  same  direction  lies  the  Convento  de  San  Francisco  (PI.  19 ; 
F,  2),  the  oldest  convent  in  Granada,  built  iu  1493-95  and  mod- 
ernized in  the  18th  century.  The  capilla  mayor  of  the  church, 
with  an  arch  like  those  in  the  Sala  de  la  Justicia  (p.  360),  origin- 
ally formed  a  room  of  a  Moorish  Palace  of  the  time  of  Moham- 
med V.  The  'Catholic  Kings'  were  interred  in  the  vault  below  the 
choir  and  were  not  removed  to  their  present  resting-place  till  1521 
(comp.  p.  340).  —  In  the  huerta  to  the  E.  of  Santa  Maria  stood  the 
Pcdaee  of  Count  Tendilla  (p.  351),  which  was  torn  down  by  the  last 
Alcaide  of  the  family  when  deprived  of  his  office  (comp.  p.  351). 

To  the  N.  of  Santa  Maria  we  cross  the  Alameda,  passing  (left) 
the  mins  of  the  Rauda  (p.  360)  and  the  outside  wall  of  the  Court 
of  the  Lions ,  and  then  descend  to  the  left  between  walls.  This 
brings  us  to  a  group  of  ruinous  cottages ,  with  a  few  Moorish  re- 
mains, and  to  the  Torre  de  las  Damas  (PI.  20;  E,  2),  a  fortified 
tower,  probably  dating  from  the  reign  of  Yiisuf  I.  The  interior  has 
been  totally  changed.  —  A  few  paces  to  the  E.  lies  the  Carmen 
de  Arratiai  a  villa  in  a  charming  garden,  once  occupied  (according 
to  an  inscription)  by  Estacio  de  Bracamontej  'Escudero'  of  Count 
Tendilla  (see  above),  and  now  in  private  hands.   Incorporated  with 


366   Route  39.  ALHAMBRA.  Alhamhra  Alta. 

it  Is  a  tiny  *Moomh  Chapel  (1372  ft.  X  10  ft.),  with  an  elegant 
piayer-niche,  also  dating  from  the  time  of  Yusuf  I.  The  fine  de- 
coration was  badly  restored  in  1846.  A  side-room  contains  an  in- 
scription and  two  large  lions  from  the  facade  of  a  Moorish  hospital, 
torn  down  in  1843.  The  lions,  made  of  limestone  from  the  Sierra 
de  Elvira,  resemble  those  in  the  Court  of  the  Lions.  Fine  view  of 
the  valley  of  the  Darro. 

Farther  on  in  the  same  direction]]we  reach  the  Torre  de  los  Pieos 
(PI.  21;  F,  2),  so  named  from  its  battlements.  To  the  right  of  the 
tower,  above  a  bastion  (baluartej,  is  the  Pnerta  de  Hierro  (PI.  22; 
F,  2),  or  'Iron  Gate',  restored  under  the  *Catholic  Kings'.  It  opens  on 
the  Cuesta  del  Key  Ohico  (p.  343)  and  the  path  leading  from  it  to 
the  Generalife  (p.  367). 

Continuing  to  follow  the  line  of  the  walls  and  the  passage  be- 
hind them  (p.  365)  along  the  top  of  the  plateau ,  we  pass  the  Torre 
del  Candil  and  reach  the  *Torre  de  la  Cantiva  (PI.  23;  F,  2),  built 
by  Yusuf  I.  and  restored  by  R.  Contreras  in  1873-76.  Its  name 
is  derived  firom  a  mistaken  modern  idea^that  Isabel  de  Solis  (p.  335) 
was  kept  here  as  a  'captive'.  The  decorations  of  its  large  room, 
notable  for  its  long  inscriptions,  vie  with  the  best  in  the  Alhambra. 
—  The  Torre  de  las  Infantas  (PI.  24;  F,  2),  built  under  Moham- 
med VII.  (comp.  p.  350),  contains  a  lofty  hall,  with  alcoves  and  a 
fountain.  On  the  groundfloor  are  a  vaulted  zaguan  and  rooms  for 
the  guard.  The  flat  roof  (azotea)  affords  a  delightful  riew.  —  The 
Torre  del  Agua  (PI.  25;  F,  2),  or  Water  Tower,  contains  a  small 
reservoir  for  the  aqueduct  of  the  Alhambra  (comp.  p.  352). 

At  the  upper  end  of  the  Cuesta  del  Rey  Chico  (see  above) ,  to 
the  left,  is  the  modern  Puerta  Exterior  (PI.  27;  F,  2)  of  the  Oenera- 
life  (p.  367).  To  the  right  is  a  road  leading  to  the  Alhambra  hotels 
and  the  Alhambra  Park.  On  this  road,  partly  hidden  by  the  Hotel 
Roma,  lies  the  Puerta  de  los  Biete  SueloB  (PI.  26,  F  2;  'Gate  of 
the  Seven  Floors'),  the  Moorish  B?6  al^Oodor,  the  gate  by  which 
Boabdil  is  said  to  have  left  the  Albambra  and  which  was  walled  up 
at  his  request.  The  towers  were  originally  72  ft.  high.  The  gate 
stands  on  a  bastion,  the  subterranean  passages  of  which  gave  rise 
to  the  rumours  of  hidden  treasures  used  by  W.  Irving  in  his  tales. 

Near  the  Washington  Irving  Hotel  is  the  entrance  to  the  villa 
Los  Mabtikbs  (PI.  G,  2)  or  Calderon ,  finely  situated  on  the  top  of 
the  Monte  Mauror.  It  has  lately  been  purchased  by  M.  Mersmann, 
a  Belgian  mine-owner,  who  is  restoring  the  grounds  and  for  the 
present  refuses  admittance.  Its  name ,  like  that  of  the  Campo  de 
los  Mdrtires  (PI.  F,  3),  refers  to  the  Christian  captives  employed  in 
the  building  of  the  Alhambra,  who  were  confined  at  night,  virith 
fetters  on  their  ancles,  in  the  underground  silos  or  maKmorras 
(p.  267)  constructed  here  by  Mohammed  I. 

From  the  Campo  de  los  Martires  to  the  Plaza  de  Santo  Domingo,  see 
p.  848;  to  the  Faseo  de  la  Bomba,  see  p.  348. 


Generalife.  GRANADA.  39.  RouU.   36'/ 

c.  The  Oeneralife. 

At  the  foot  of  the  Cerro  dt  Sol,  to  the  £.  of  the  Alhamhra  Hill 
and  about  165  ft  ahove  it,  lies  the  '^Palaeio  de  Generalif^  (PI.  E, 
F,  1 ;  adm.,  see  p.  333}|  the  celebrated  summer-residence  of  the 
Moorish  princes.  The  name  of  Generalife  or  Oinalarifc  is  a  corrup- 
tion of  the  Arabic  DJennat  al-*Arlf  ('garden  of  'Arif  or,  perhaps, 
*of  the  architect')  and  doubtless  commemorates  its  original  owner. 
According  to  an  Arabic  inscription  in  the  interior  the  palace  was 
renovated  by  Ahul-Walld  hma'U;  and  in  1494  et  seq.  it  received, 
by  command  of  Isabella  the  Catholic,  an  addition  of  two  stories, 
which  have  largely  disappeared,  and  was  surrounded  by  new  build- 
ings. After  the  death  of  the  Alcaide  Don  Ptdro  de  Oranada  (d,  1566), 
said  to  be  a  direct  descendant  of  Ibn  Hud  (p.  335),  the  so-called 
Marquisti  de  Oranada  held  the  office  of  superintendent  of  the  Ge- 
neralife until  quite  recent  times.  The  present  owner,  the  Marquis 
de  CampoUjarj  is  also  the  proprietor  of  the  well-known  Villa  Palla- 
vicini,  near  Genoa.  The  interior  of  the  palace  is  very  dilapidated 
and  largely  spoiled  by  reconstruction.  Tiie  original  deoorations, 
dating  about  half-a- century  earlier  than  those  of  the  main  halls 
of  the  Alhambra,  are  for  the  most  part  covered  with  whitewash. 

The  old  approach,  mentioned  at  p.  366,  placed  the  Generalife  in 
direct  communication  with  the  Alhambra.  The  palace  was  entered 
through  two  Courit,  now  mainly  built  up,  and  by  a  well-preserved 
Gateway  on  the  W.  side,  bearing  the  symbolic  key  (p.  353). 

From  the  modern  Puerto  Exterior  de  Generalife  (PI.  27 ;  F,  2), 
where  visitors  ring,  a  footpath,  lined  with  clipped  cypresses  and 
commanding  beautiful  views,  leads  to  the  New  Entrance  (PI.  28 ; 
Fj  1),  on  the  S.  side  of  the  building. 

This  entrance  gives  on  a  picturesque  Coubt  (160  ft.  X  42  ft.), 
which  is  still  diversified  as  in  the  days  of  the  Moors  with  myrtles 
and  orange-trees  and  intersected  by  the  aqueduct  of  the  Alhambra. 
The  buildings  on  the  E.  side  date  from  the  16th  century.  The  W. 
side  Is  bounded  by  a  Portico  of  18  pointed  arches,  the  middle  door 
of  which  leads  to  a  Mirador  (Arab,  manzar,  'belvedere'),  now  used 
as  a  chapel.  On  the  N.  side  is  an  Arcade  of  five  arches,  beyond 
which  is  a  Portal,  with  three  arches,  bearing  the  above-mentioned 
inscription.  This»leads  to  an  oblong  Hall,  42V2  ft.  in  length,  with 
alcoves  at  each  end.  Behind  the  hall  is  a  smaller  square  Room,  the 
balcony  of  which  affords  a  fine  a  lew  of  the  valley  of  the  Darro.  — 
The  Sola  de  lot  Reyet  and  the  Sola  de  los  Retratos,  to  the  right  and 
left  of  the  room  with  the  balcony,  contain  mediocre  portraits  of 
Spanish  sovereigns  siiice  Ferdinand  and  Isabella  and  also  14  alleged 
portraits  of  the  so-called  Marqueses  de  Granada,  chiefly  copies  of 
the  17th  century.   No.  12  is  said  to  represent  Boabdil  (?). 

The  ♦Gabdbn  of  the  Generalife,  to  the  E.  of  and  above  the  main 
building,  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  survivals  of  the  Moorish 
period,  resembling,  with  its  terraces,  grottoes,  water-works,  and 


368   R<mU39.  GRANADA. 

clipped  hedges,  an  Italian  villa  of  the  late  Renaissance.  We  first 
entei  the  Patio  de  lot  Cipreses^  with  an  arcade  of  1584-86  and  a 
pond  shaded  by  renerable  and  gigantic  cypresses.  Under  the  CiprSs 
de  la  Sultanay  600  years  old,  is  supposed  to  have  taken  place  the 
imaginary  tryst  between  the  wife  of  Boabdil  and  Hamet  the  Aben- 
cerrage  (p.  360).  —  The  Ckimno  de  las  Cateadas,  a  well-preserved 
flight  of  Moorish  steps,  with  runlets  for  water  on  the  top  of  its  balus- 
trades, ascends  to  the  upper  part  of  the  garden.  Here  stands  a 
*Mirador  (PI.  29 ;  F,  1),  erected  in  1836  and  commanding  an  ex- 
tensive view  of  Granada,  the  Alhambra,  and  the  valley  of  the  Darro. 

The  Billa  del  Moro  (PI.  F,  1),  a  knoll  6  min.  above  the  Mirador  and 
affording  a  Bimilar  view,  is  sapposed  to  be  the  site  of  a  mosque,  con- 
verted into  the  Ohristlan  Ermita  de  Santa  Elena.  —  Hard  by  runs  the 
aqueduct  of  the  Alhambra  (p.  362),  and  iu  the  vicinity  are  the  Mbercdn  de 
ku  Datncu  and  other  relics  of  Moorish  tanks.  One  of  the  draw-wells 
(noria)  has  a  depth  of  194  ft.  The  sumptuous  Palaee  of  Daralharoia  may 
also  have  occupied  this  site.  —  A  little  farther  to  the  S.  are  the  Aljibe 
de  la  Llmoia,  a  large  cistern  still  in  use,  and  the  Albercdn  del  Jfegro,  a  tank 
180  ft.  long  and  68  ft.  wide. 

About  Vs  K.  to  the  8.E.  of  the  Generalife  lies  the  Oementtrio  (PI.  H, 
1),  which  was  laid  out  in  1804.  It  contains  many  niche-graves  (p.  210) 
and  affords  a  view  of  the  Sierra  l^evada.  —  Some  scanty  remains  of  the 
Moorish  Falacio  de  lot  Alixaret  were  found  in  this  neighbourhood  in  1890. 
About  11/4  M.  farther  on,  on  the  way  down  to  the  valley  of  the  Genii,  are 
the  remains  of  the  palace  of  i>(lr  a<-fFM.Criver  palace'),  commonly  known 
as  the  Caea  de  la$  Oallincu. 

d.  Excursions  from  Granada. 

Drivel.  To  the  Llanot  de  Armilla,  an  unfruitful  section  of  the  vega, 
commanding  a  good  view  of  the  city  and  the  Sierra  Nevada  (there  and 
back  2  hrs.).  —  To  the  villages  oi  Huetor^  Cckfar,  and  La  Rubia^  a 
round  of  3  hrs.  It  was  at  La  Bubia  that  Isabella  the  Catholic,  according 
to  the  story,  had  to  take  refuge  from  the  Moors  in  a  laurel-bush.  —  To 
Visnai\  at  the  base  of  the  Bie^'ra  de  Alfacar  (2  hrs.);  thence  on  foot  to 
(1  hr.)  the  Fuente  Grande.  A  walk  of  3  hrs.  more  reaches  a  stalactite  cavern. 

Excursion  to  the  Upper  YiJley  of  the  Genii  (2  days).  We  drive  via 
Cenes  to  (6  M.)  the  Wilhelmi  Paper  Mill,  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Affuas  Blancat  with  the  Genii.  We  then  proceed  on  foot  through  the 
picturesque  and  narrow  valley  to  Fanos  and  (10  M.)  Giiejar,  a  village 
famous  for  its  excellent  drinking-water.  The  hill  above  commands  a 
good  view  of  the  Alcazdba  and  the  Mulhacen  (see  below)}  and  a  still 
more  extensive  prospect  is  obtained  from  the  (2  hrs.)  Cerro  (kUali  to  the 
N.  of  Gflejar.  —  Next  morning  we  proceed  to  the  (*/*  hr.)  foundry  of  Mar- 
tinete,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Maitena^  to  the  (20  min.)  smelting- work  of 
Jttedn,  and  to  (1  hr.)  the  Barranco  de  San  Jttan^  where  luncheon  may  be 
taken.  Thence  we  go  on  to  (2  hrs.)  the  mines  of  fytrella^  enjoying  a 
view  of  the  Alcaziba  about  halfway.  In  s/4  ^'  more  we  reach  the  JW- 
iicia  Miney  where  accommodation  may  possibly  be  obtained  at  the  manager's. 
Near  the  shaft  on  the  right  bank  is  a  waterfall  of  some  size.  Another 
i/s  hr.  hrings  us  to  the  *Yalle  de  Infiemo,  a  narrow  ravine  in  which  the 
two  sources  of  the  Genii  unite.  The  grandly  imposing  mountain-back- 
ground is  best  surveyed  from  the  steep  hill  1/4  hr.  to  the  right  of  the  path. 

Excurtions  in  the  Sierra  Nevada  (practicable  in  summer  only).  Guides 
and  mules  (4-6  p.  per  day  and  keep  of  driver)  may  be  obtained  at  the 
hotels.  Tents,  rugs  or  blankets,  snow-veils,  and  provisions  must  all  be 
brought  from  Granada.  —  The  ascent  of  the  *Pioacho  de  Yeleta  (11,886  ft.) 
takes  two  days.  Starting  early  in  the  morning,  we  ascend  the  Gamino  de 
los  Neveros  (p.  849)  and  in  about  4  hrs.  reach  the  spot  for  luncheon,  under 

^-^cky  ridge  of  El  Domajo  (6930  ft.).    We  then  pass  the  PeSion  de  San 


TEBA.  40,  Route,   369 

Franciteo  (8460  ft.)  and  reach  the  high  valley  with  the  Laguna  de  leu 
T$K%ias  (9744  f%.),  a  moniitain-lake  on  the  banks  of  which  the  night  is  spent. 
An  early  start  on  the  second  day  brings  us  in  SVa  hrs.  to  the  top,  which 
commands  a  magnificent  nanorama  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  of  the  abyss 
(if  the  Corral  de  Veleta,  filled  with  iee  and  snow.  In  clear  weather  the 
Sierra  Morena  is  visible  to  the  K.  and  the  Atlas  Kts.  to^the  S.,  beyond 
the  Mediterranean. 

The  view  from  the  Cerro  de  Mnlhaeen  (t.«.  Uuley  Bauant  11,430  fl.), 
the  highest  summit  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  is  not  fo  imposing,  but  the  rest 
of  the  excursion  is  more  enjoyable  (4  days).  1st  Day:  To  the  ValU  d»  In- 
Jfemo  (p.  968)  and  thence  to  the  mountain-valley  of  Vacares  (ca.  9200  ft.), 
where  the  night  is  passed.  Here  we  have  a  grand  retrospect  of  the 
three  p<>aks  of  the  Aleataba  (10,435  ft.);  to  the  left  rises  the  massive  Hul- 
hacen,  more  in  the  foreground  the  Picacho  de  Veleta.  —  3nd  Day:  We 
ascend  on  foot,  by  a  somewhat  trying  route,  to  (7-9  hrs.)  the  top  of  the 
M ulhacen,  while  the  mules  are  sent  round  to  meet  us.  The  night  is  spent 
on  the  S.  slope.  -'  3rd  Day :  We  descend  past  the  Moorish-looking  villages 
of  CapiUira  (4760  ft.),  Bplbion  (4315  ft.),  and  Pampaneira  (3625  ft.),  in  the 
ViiUiys  of  Alpt^jarrw.io  the  fertile  Valley  of  Poqveira  and  on  to  the  small 
chalybeate  baths  of  tanjaron  (2230  ft.),  which  Iie.>>,  with  its  ruined  castle 
and  groves  of  oranges  and  chestnuts,  under  the  snow-clad  summit  of  the 
Cerro  CabaUo  (i0,3§0  ft.).  —  4th  Day.  By  the  highrrad  back  to  (25  M.) 
Granada  (diligence  thrice  weekly  in  about  6  hrs.), 

40.  From  Bobadilla  to  Gibraltar  ▼!&  Bonda  and 
Algeciras. 

Bailway  to  (111  M.)  Alffecirat  in  5-6  hrs.  (two  through-trains  daily  i,  fares 
22  p.  55,  16  p.  90,  10  p.  25  c).  There  is  also  a  local  train  on  Mon.,  Thurs., 
&  Sat.  from  Ronda  to  Algeciras,  The  ^Sud  Express"  service  from  Paris  to 
Madrid  is  continued  every  Wed.  to  and  from  Algeciras  and  Gibraltar 
(56  hrs.  from  London ;  fare  about  13/.  4s.).  The  railway,  belonging  to  an 
English  company,  has  excellent  first-class  and  second-class  carriages.  Ronda 
is  one  of  the  most  interesting  towns  in  Spain ;  and  the  scenery  between 
Bonda  and  Algeciras  is  attractive.  —  From  the  pier  at  Algeeirae  Puerto 
Steamboats,  connecting  with  the  trains,  cross  6  times  daily  to  OibraHar 
in  25  min.  (fares  1  p.  S»,  75  c).  Direct  tickets  to  Gibraltar,  including  the 
t  ansport  of  luggage,  are  issued  at  all  railway-stations. 

Bobadilla^  see  p.  320.  —  The  train  traverses  a  featureless  pla- 
teau to  (9  M.)  CampiUo8j  and  then  intersects  the  last  N.  spuTs  of 
the  mountains  of  S.  Andalusia.  —  13V2  M.  Teba,  The  little  town 
is  picturesquely  situated  amid  the  limestone  mountains,  ahout  1  M. 
to  the  left,  and  is  visible  for  some  time  after  we  leave  the  station. 

Beyond  (20  M.)  Almargen  a  dreary,  water- furrowed  hill-dis- 
trict appears  to  the  right,  resembling  the  plateau  of  Baza  and  Gua- 
dix  (p.  298).  We  cross  several  ranges  of  hills.  26  M.  Canete  la  Beat, 
—  The  railway  enters  the  valley  of  the  Guadaleie  (p.  431)  and  then 
ascends  to  the  S.,  between  limestone  hills,  to  the  high-lying  plateau 
of  (33V2M.)  Setently  near  which  rise  the  abrupt  heights  of  the  8er- 
rania  de  Ronda  (p.  370). 

We  now  pass  a  small  lake  (left)  'and  traverse  an  undulating 
district  with  groves  of  cork-trees.  3o  M.  Parchite.  Farther  on  we 
have  a  fine  view  of  the  mountains  of  Ronda  and  ascend  through  the 
olive -groves  to  its  vega.  The  station  of  (44  M.)  Bonda  lies  to  the 
E.  of  the  town. 

Babdskks's  Spain.  24 


370  Route  40,  RONDA.  From  Bohadilla 

Bonda  (ca.  2460  ft.;  H6L  Gibraltar,  Plaza  AlaTc6n  6;  Fonda 
Bonde9ia  \  unpretending ,  pens,  with  wine  7-8  p. ;  H6t.  America^ 
pens.  9-10,  omn.  1  p.,  mediocre ;  Rail.  Restaurant^  with  rooms),  a 
pleasant  country  town  with  about  25,000  inhab.,  is  picturesquely 
situated  in  the  midst  of  a  magnificent  amphitheatre  of  mountains.  To 
the  N.W.  is  the  Sierra  de  QraxaUma^  with  the  flve-peaked  Ctrro  de 
San  CristSbal  (6630  ft.);  to  the  S.W.,  the  Sierra  de  Libar  (p.  372)  ; 
to  the  S.,  the  Sierra  de  Ronda  and  Sierra  de  Estepona;  to  the  S.E., 
the  Sierra  de  Tolox  (6426  ft.).  From  the  wide  and  fertile  vega  at 
the  base  of  these  mountains  rises  an  isolated  hill,  which  on  the 
W.  and  N.W.  descends  in  almost  perpendicular  precipices,  while 
it  is  rent  in  twain  by  a  chasm ,  300  ft.  wide  and  630  ft.  deep, 
formed  by  the  river  Quadcdevin,  The  Old  Town,  built  by  the  Moors 
with  the  stones  of  the  Roman  Arunda  (p.  372;  Arab.  Ronda'),  occu- 
pies the  S.  point  of  this  hill,  the  only  access  to  which  (S.)  is  guard- 
ed by  the  Alcazaba.  At  its  foot  has  arisen  the  small  Barrio  de  San 
Francisco.  The  N.  end  of  the  hill  is  occupied  by  the  Nbw  Town,  or 
Mercadillo,  founded  by  the  *  Catholic  Kings'  on  the  surrender  of 
Ronda  (May  20th,  I486),  which  fell  after  a  bombardment  of  20  days. 

The  town  was  then  settled  by  colonists  from  N.  Andalusia  and 
other  parts  of  Spain,  but  has  nevertheless  retained  its  semi- 
Orieatal  character  down  to  the  present  day.  One  symptom  of  this  is 
seen  in  the  unusually  heavy  gratings  of  the  windows.  The  inhabit- 
ants long  had  the  fame  of  being  the  most  daring  smugglers  and  the 
most  dexterous  horse- tamers  in  S.  Spain.  The  once  considerable 
manufactures  of  Ronda  have  almost  died  out,  and  Its  chief  sources 
of  revenue  are  flour-milling,  fruit-grovdng,  and  the  production  of 
excellent  white  wines.  In  consequence  of  its  lofty  situation  Ronda 
enjoys  a  fresh  and  salubrious  climate.  It  is  lighted  with  electricity. 

From  the  railway-station  a  badly  paved  street  leads  to  the  W, 
to  (Y2M.)  the  new  town,  with  its  straight  and  monotonous  streets, 
its  low,  whitewashed  houses,  and  the  three  hotels.  Nearly  oppo- 
site the  point  where  we  reach  the  main  street  stands  the  Pla%a  de 
Toros,  in  which  bull-fights  are  held  during  the  Feria  (May  20- 
22rid),  one  of  the  most  interesting  annual  fairs  in  Spain.  At  the 
end  of  the  performance  the  dead  bodies  of  the  horses  are  simply 
thrown  over  the  neighbouring  precipice  into  the  valley  of  the  Guada* 
levin  and  left  to  be  devoured  by  birds  of  prey.  —  A  little  to  the 
N.  lies  the  ♦Alameda,  with  its  pleasant  grounds.  The  ralled-in 
platforms  on  its  W.  side  command  a  splendid  view  of  the  old  town, 
the  vega,  the  river  600  ft.  below  us,  and  the  lofty  mountains. 

We  return  to  the  main  street  and  turn  to  the  S.  to  the  (3  min.) 
imposing  ♦*Tajo  (i.e,  ^cutting*,  'gorge' ;  360  ft.  deep)  of  the  Qua- 
dalevin ,  filled  with  the  spray  of  the  foaming  river.  At  its  narrowest 
point  (230  ft.)  it  is  crossed  by  the  Puente  Nuevo,  a  bridge  of  one  bold 
span,  constructed  in  1761  by  JosS  Martin  de  Alduguela  of  Malaga. 
The  bridge  affords  splendid  views  of  the  vertical  sides  of  the  ravine 


toOihraltar,  RONDA.  40,  Route,  ^7  i 

and  the  rook-choked  bed  of  the  riyer.  The  E.  bank  is  partly  over- 
grown by  cactus,  while  on  the  W.  side  are  a  number  of  millSy  past 
which  the  river  hurries  in  a  series  of  boiling  rapids  and  cascades. 

From  the  open  space  in  the  old  town,  just  above  the  bridge,  we 
reach  in  a  straight  direction  the  church  of  Santa  Maria  la  Mayor 
and  the  Alcaxaba  (see  below).  To  the  right  is  the  way  to  Campillo 
and  the  mills  (see  below). — To  the  left  is  the  Galle  del  Puente  Viejo, 
leading  to  the  (2  min.  j  Gasa  del  Rby  Moro  (No.  17) ,  with  its 
view-terrace  orerlooking  the  Tajo.  The  Mina,  an  underground 
staircase  of  366  steps  descending  to  the  river,  was  hewn  out  by 
the  Moors  to  obviate  the  danger  of  a  water-famine  in  case  of  a  siege 
(fee  Vs'l  P-)*  '^^^  street  continues  to  descend,  passing  (1  min.) 
the  Casa  del  Marquei  de  Salvatierra ,  with  its  singular  Renaissance 
portal ,  to  the  two  lower  Tajo  bridges ,  the  Puente  de  San  Miguel 
and  the  Moorish  Puente  Viejo. 

From  the  last-named  bridge  we  ascend  to  the  S.  by  a  stony  path 
skirting  the  £.  margin  of  the  old  town,  here  still  for  the  most  part 
sheltered  by  well-preserved  Arab  walls  and  towers.  In  10  min. 
we  reach  a  road  descending  to  the  church  of  EspMtu  Santo  and  the 
Barrio  de  San  Francisco  (p.  370).  An  ascent  of  1  min.  hence  brings 
ns  to  the  Moorish  Aleasabay  laid  in  ruins  by  the  French  in  1808. 

A  few  hundred  yards  to  the  !N.  is  a  plaza  with  a  column  to  the 
memory  of  Vicente  de  Esp<t)«{  (1550-1624),  a  poet  and  musician 
who  was  bom  at  Ronda.  Adjacent  is  the  interesting  church  of 
Santa  Masia  la  Mayor,  originally  a  Moorish  mosque  and  still 
retaining  some  of  its  Moorish  cupolas.  The  Ck)thio  aisles  and  the 
lofty  plateresque  capilla  mayor  were  later  additions.  The  Renais- 
sance choir-stalls  are  adorned  with  24  good  figures  of  saints  and 
reliefs  of  the  Annunciation,  Visitation,  and  Marriage  of  the  Virgin. 

The  Calle  de  la  Oaridad  leads  from  the  S.W.  angle  of  this  plaza 
to  (2  min.)  another  small  square,  on  the  left  side  of  which  (No.  6) 
stands  the  Caea  de  Mondragdny  a  Renaissance  edifice  with  two 
attractive  courts  and  several  good  wooden  ceilings  in  the  Mudtfjar 
style.  From  the  balcony  and  the  two  terraces  we  look  almost  sheer 
down  into  the  abyss  of  the  Tajo  (fee  50  c). 

Beyond  this  house  we  descend  to  the  left  to  visit  the  CampiUo^ 
a  shady  plaza  on  the  W.  border  of  the  old  town,  affording  a  good 
view  of  the  bull-ring  and  of  part  of  the  new  town. 

We  may  now  return  to  the  (3  min.)  Puente  Nuevo  (p.  370)  and 
the  new  town,  or  we  may  descend  to  the  left,  on  the  W.  side  of  the 
hill,  to  the  Mills  (Molinos)  on  the  Gnadalevin.  The  easy  main 
path  leads  circuitously  to  (V2  ^r.)  the  Jjower  MiUt.  A  narrow  path, 
diverging  to  the  right  at  the  first  bend,  leads  to  (5  min.)  the 
Upper  MiUj  which  commands  a  fine  Tiew  of  the  Puente  Nuevo  and 
the  falls  of  the  Quadalevin.  The  path  leading  hence  to  (20  min.) 
the  lower  mills  is  partly  cut  in  the  rock  and  should  not  be  attempted 
by  those  with  any  tendency  to  dizziness. 

24* 


372   Route  40.  GAUCIN.  From  Bohadilla 

EzcuBflioMS.  The  rains  of  the  Roman  town  of  Arunda  or  Ronda  la 
Vieja ,  with  important  remains  of  an  amphitheatre ,  lie  V/t  M .  to  the  K. 
The  '^ew  reaches  on  the  N.  to  the  Sierra  If  orena.  —  The  Cueva  del  Oato 
may  be  yislted  from  Ronda  on  horseback  (2  hrs.)  or  from  the  station  of 
Benaojitt  (see  below). 

The  Railway  to  Aloeciras  runs  at  first  towards  the  N.  To  the 
left  we  see  the  lower  part  of  the  line ,  with  the  station  of  Monte- 
j&que  (see  below).  —  481/2  M.  Arriate.  The  railway  then  sweeps 
round  to  the  S.W.  and  sinks  into  the  valley  of  the  Guadaleviii, 
whieh  below  Ronda  takes  the  name  of  Ouadiaro,  —  547^  M. 
Montejaqut  lies  to  the  right,  at  the  base  of  the  Sitrra  de  Libar, 
along  the  steep  flanks  of  which  the  railway  runs.  To  the  right  is 
the  Cueva  del  Qato  ('cat's  cave'),  a  large  stalactite  cavern  traversed 
by  a  hrook.  — 58  M.  Benaojdn^  with  olive-groves.  Beyond  two 
tunnels  we  cross  to  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  here  closely  hemmed 
in.  —  62  M.  Jimeray  with  rich  groves  of  olives  and  oranges.  — 
68  M.  Cortes ,  in  a  plain  with  numerous  olives  and  almond-trees. 

The  part  of  the  railway  between  this  point  and  San  Pablo  is  the 
finest  of  all  and  considerably  taxed  the  resources  of  the  engineer. 
The  Guadlaro  forces  its  circuitous  way  through  the  steep  heights  of 
the  Sierra  de  Ronda^  on  which  nothing  grows  butpalmettoes  (p.  227). 
The  railway  passes  from  bank  to  bank  by  tunnels  and  bridges.  The 
romantic  *  Ouadiaro  Oorge^  the  narrowest  part,  is  reached  beyond 
the  seventh  tunnel.  On  emerging  from  the  next  tunnel  we  enjoy  a 
grand  view  (left)  of  the  mouth  of  the  gorge,  seen  to  still  greater 
advantage  by  the  traveller  In  the  reverse  direction.   Four  tunnels. 

75  M.  Oaucin.  The  little  town  of  this  name  (2034  ft. ;  Parador 
de  lo8  Inglesea)  lies  high  up  in  the  mountains,  5V2  M.  to  the  E. 
It  has  the  ruins  of  a  Moorish  castle  and  commands  a  fine,  though 
distant  view  of  Qibraltar,  the  sea,  and  the  coast  of  Africa.  —  The 
train  runs  high  above  the  right  bank  of  the  river  through  a  tunnel 
and  several  cuttings.  81  M.  San  Pablo^  the  first  place  in  the  Campo 
de  Gibraltar  and  province  of  Cadiz,  lies  amid  oak-grown  hills. 

84  M.  Jimena  de  la  Frontera  (p.  429)  is  the  station  for  the 
small  town  of  the  same  name  (6600  inhab.),  which  lies  2M.  to  the 
W.,  on  the  hillside  beyond  the  streamlet  of  Hoagarganta.  It  also 
contains  an  old  Moorish  castle  and  is  a  favourite  excursion  from 
Gibraltar.  At  the  foot  of  the  hill  is  the  sanctuary  of  Nuestra  Senora 
de  los  Angeles,  with  a  venerable  stone  image  of  the  Virgin.  —  We 
cross  the  Hosgarganta.  To  the  left,  in  the  distance,  rises  the  Sierra 
de  Esiepona  or  de  Santa  Bermeja.  —  91  M.  Casteltar,  a  decayed 
Moorish  fortress,  lies  3  M.  to  the  W.,  on  a  hill  between  the  Hosgar- 
ganta and  the  Quadarranque, 

The  hilly  district  between  the  Guadiaro  and  the  Guadarranque 
is  celebrated  for  its  cork-woods  (Quercus  suber).  To  the  right  lie 
the  convent  and  (97  M.)  station  of  Almot€tima.  The  former,  founded 
in  1603  and  now  private  property,  is  much  frequented  by  the  rural 
population  on  May  3rd. 


^r 


to  Oihr altar,  ALQECIBAS.  40,  Route.  373 

101  M.  San  Boqne  (Oavarron  Hotel -,  Casmona;  Brit.  Vice- 
Consul,  (?.  F,  Comwell),  The  small  city  (8000  Inhab.),  not  visible 
from  the  railway ,  lies  on  a  ridgB  to  the  N.  of  the  Bay  of  Algeciras 
(see  below)  and  was  built,  like  Los  Barrios  and  the  new  quarter  of 
Algeciras,  by  the  Spaniards  who  left  Gibraltar  after  1704  (p.  377).  ■— 
To  the  left  appears  the  wide  Bay  of  Algeciras,  with  the  limestone 
precipices  of  Gibraltar  and  the  African  coast  with  the  Sierra  BuUones 
(p.  380).  The  surface  is  now  quite  level.  We  cross  the  Guadar- 
ranque  near  its  mouth,  where,  on  the  fdjm  of  Et  Bocadillo ,  are 
some  inconsiderable  mounds,  marking  the  site  of  the  ancient  town 
of  Carteia  (p.  376).  --  105  M.  Los  Barrios;  the  place  is  2V2  M.  to 
the  W.  of  the  railway.  —  We  pass  under  an  arch  of  the  old  Moorish 
aqueduct  of  Algeciras,  cross  the  river  Falmones^  and  descend  in  a 
wid«  sweep  to  the  S.  to  (IIO74  M.)  Algeciras- Estaeidn,  the  main 
station,  and  (111  M.)  Algeciras- Puerto^  the  harbour  station. 

Algeciras.  —  Hot«ls.  Hotel  Habina;  H5t.  Vigtobia,  pens,  with 
wine  7 p.,  clean;  H6t.  Calpk,  also  clean. 

Steamers.  The  railway-steamers  (p.  369)  Elvira  and  Margarita  ply  four 
times  daily  to  (6  M.)  Qihraltar  (1  p.  25, 76  c).  A  steamer  also  runs  to  Centa  daily. 

Diligence  to  San  Fernando  (Cadiz),  see  p.  435. 

Britieh  Yice-Oopsal,  /.  H.  Hayne*. 

Algeciras,  a  town  with  12,200  inhab.,  lies  on  the  W.  side  of  the 
Bay  of  Algeciras.  between  the  last  S.E.  outliers  of  the  Sierra  de  los 
Gazules,  The  modem  town  and  harbour  are  separated  by  the  Miel 
(S.)  from  the  scanty  remains  of  Old  Algeciras ,  which  was  founded 
by  the  Moors  in  713,  two  years  after  their  first  invasion  of  Spain 
(p.  377).  The  Moorish  name,  al-Qezira  al-Khadrd  ('green  island'), 
is  also  preserved  in  the  Isla  Verde  lying  opposite  the  town.  In  1344 
Algeciras  was  taken  from  the  Moors  by  Alfonso  XI.  of  Castile,  but 
it  was  recaptured  in  1368  by  Mohammed  Y.  of  Granada  and  almost 
totally  destroyed.  In  1704  the  town  was  re-colonized  by  the  Spa- 
niards who  left  Gibraltar,  and  in  1760  it  was  considerably  enlarged 
by  Charles  III.  It  has  now,  however,  almost  no  trade  or  industry, 
except  in  cork  from  the  forests  of  Andalusia. 


The  Feeey  to  Gibraltar  (1/2  br.)  affords  a  fine  view  of  the 
rock  of  Gibraltar  and  of  the  Sierra  Bullones,  in  Africa,  to  the  S. 

Qibraltar.  —  Hotels.  Hotel  Eubopa,  New  Hole  Parade,  in  an  open 
situation  on  the  8.  side  of  the  town,  IVs  H.  from  the  pier,  well  adapted 
for  a  stay;  H6t.  Bbistol,  Cathedral  Square,  quietly  and  pleasantly  situ- 
ated; Gkand  HStel,  Waterport  Street,  a  small  and  noisy  house  with 
good  attendance ,  pens,  from  10s. ;  HdxEL  Eotal,  Waterport  Street,  vari- 
ously criticised.  —  Less  pretending:  H6tel  Continental,  Waterport  Street, 
good  rooms:  Calpb  Hotel,  Waterport  Street,  recently  restored  and  re- 
furnished. In  spite  of  their  comparatively  high  prices .  none  of  these  hotels 
is  quite  up  to  modern  requirements.  Bargaining  is  advisable  in  every  case. 
Table  wine  is  charged  extra.  English  money  is  generally  demanded  in 
payment,  though  the  landlords  give  nothing  but  Spanish  money  in  change.  — 
Lodging  Houses.  ^Carlton  House,  Wheatley  Terrace;  Senrif  House,  King's 
Yard  Lanej  *' Rugby  House,  Prince  Edward's  Ramp. 


374   RouUdO,  GIBRALTAR.  Cah$. 

lUitMurtati  on  tbe  Alameda  (p.  378)  and  at  the  Royal  and  Grand  Hotels, 
—  Ca/d  Universal^  Waterport  Street.  —  Imperial^  Governor's  Street.  —  The 
Olasi  Barrel  is  a  beer-hoose  frequented  by  soldiers  and  sailors. 

Oabs  (stands  at  Waterport  Gate  *  Commercial  Square,  and  Cathedral 
Square).  Drive  in  the  lower  town,  oetween  Waterport  Gate  and  the  Ala- 
meda, 00  c.^  in  the  upper  parts  of  the  town  1  p.,  to  Catalan  Bay  IVt  p., 
to  the  lighthouse  1  p.  85  c..  to  the  Governor's  Cottage  2Vtp.  Per  How 
1  p.  85  c.  its.  6d.)  each  additional  i/t  hr.  60  c.  The  above  fares  are  for 
1-2  ]>er8ons;  each  extra  person  pays  30  c.  more  (to  the  lighthouse  or  Gover- 
nor's Cottage  50  c.).  Each  article  of  luggage  20  c.  —  The  cabmen  generally 
refuse  to  take  a  fare  at  these  legal  prices;  it  is  necessary  to  make  a 
bargain  in  advance.    Complaints  should  be  addressed  to  the  police. 

Saddle  Horaea  may  be  hired  of  Frank  Bant^  College  Lane)  H,  QonzaleSy 
or  .Capetano J  Horse  Barrack  Lane. 

Omnibus  every  >/>  ^'-  ^^om.  Commercial  Square  to  the  Kew  Mole 
Parade  (20  c^. 

Poet  Ofllee,  Waterport  Street,  open  8-6  (on  Sun.  10-11,  2-2.80,  and 
5.30-6.80).  —  Telagzapk  Offlee,  in  the  same  building,  open  from  8  a.m.  till 
9  p.m.  (April-Sept,  from  7  a.m.). 

Theatres.  T/teatre  /Zoyal,  Governor's  Parade,  for  opera? ;  Auemblp  Rooms. 

in  the  Alameda  (p.  378),  built  in  1881-85,  for  dramas.  —  A  MiUtary  Band 

plays  on  the  Alameda  on  Hon.  and  Thurs.,  3-5  p.m.  (in  summer  9  p.m.). 

Public  Baths,  Irish  Town.  —  Bea  Baths^  from  Kay  to  October. 

Banks.      Anglo -Egyptian  Bankj    opposite    the    police  -  of  flee  ^   Larios 

Hermanosf  A.  Z,.  Oalliano^  Cannon  Lane:  Jos.  Cuhy  Jt  Sons^  Church  St. 

Money  (comp.  p.  373).  —  The  coins  in  common  circulation  in  Gibraltar 
are  the  Oold  25-peseta  piece;  Silver  coins  of  5,  2,  1,  V21  i^d  V«  peseta; 
and  Bronte  of  10,  5,  2,  and  1  centimo.  The5-pese(a  piece  is  usually  called 
'dollar'.  Shopkeepers  generally  accept  Ul  gold  and  silver  coins  current  in 
Spain,  and  also  British  coins  at  the  current  rate  of  exchange ;  but  British 
currency  is  not  legal  tender. 

Bookseller,  A,  Beankmd^  103  Church  Street.  —  Garrison  Library,  Gov- 
ernor's Parade,  founded  in  1798,  with  about  50,000  vols,  and  large  read- 
ing and  club  rooms. 

Photographs.  BenolM  d:  Co.^  Gunner's  Lane  and  Waterport  Street; 
A.  Freyontt  96  Waterport  Street.  —  Lithographs.  Jfaius  SpiUer^  Church  St, 
United  States  Consul,  H.  J.  Spraaue^  Prince  Edward's  Road. 
Steamboats.  To  Algeeiraa^  see  p.  873;  to  Cadiz  via  Tangier^  see  p.  8S0. 
—  North  German  Lloyd  (oomp.  p.  xviii)  four  times  a  month  between  New 
York,  Gibraltar,  and  Genoa  (agents,  /.  Onetti  &  Sons.  Engineer  Lane).  — 
Austrian  Lloyd  between  Trieste,  Gibraltar,  and  Brazil  (agents,  Longlands^ 
Cotoell,  &  Co.y  Cloister  Bamp).  —  Compagnie  Transatlantique^  for  Marseilles, 
Gran,  Malaga,  and  Tangier  (see  pp.  322,  380).  —  HaWs  Line  from  Gib- 
raltar via  Malaga  {il.)  to  Cadiz  (U.  10s.)  and  Lisbon  (London),  see  p.  435 
(agents,  /.  Peacock  A  Co.^  Irish  Town).  —  O/'ietW  BIteam  Navigation  Co.  to 
Naples  and  Port  Said  (agent?,  Bmith^  Jmossiy  de  Co.,  Irish  Town).  —  Royal 
Mail  Bleamer  Company  to  Malta,  Brindisi,  Alexandria,  Port  Said,  and  Suez 
{Smithy  Jmossiy  Jb  Co..,  see  above).  —  To  England,  see  p.  xvii. 

Small  Boats.  For  landing  or  embarking  1  p.,  ea^h  piece  of  luggage  25  c. 
Many  complaints  are  made  of  the  confusion  of  this  service,  and  the  de- 
mands of  the  boatmen  are  often  exorbitant.  Complaints  should  be  ad- 
dressed to  the  port- officials.  —  The  Custom  House  Examination  takes  place 
at  the  Harbour  Gate. 

Principal  Sights  (one  day).  Morning:  walk  through  the  town  and 
visit  the  Alameda  (p.  878)  and  Galleries  (p.  378).  Afternoon :  excursion  to 
Europa  Point  and  Govemor^s  Cottage  (p.  378)  or  to  Catalan  Bay  (p.  380). 

Guides  (10  p.  per  day ;  superfluous) ,  at  the  hotels.  —  It  is  prohibi- 
ted to  make  either  drawings  or  notes,  when  near  the  fortifications.  It 
should  be  noted  that  the  gates  are  closed  after  the  evening  gun,  but  up  to 
11.30  p.m.  free  egress  or  ingress  is  obtained  on  application  at  the  Police 
Station;  after  11.80  p.m.  no  one  is  allowed  to  enter  or  quit  the  town  till 
Sunrise,  without  special  permission. 


Situation.  GIBRALTAR.  40.  Route,   375 

OibraUoft  a  town  of  26, 184  inhab.  (iucl.  a  garrison  of  5-6000  men! 
an  important  British  fortress,  and  the  'key  of  the  Mediterranean  , 
lies  opposite  Algeciras,  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Bay  of  Algecira$  or 
of  Qibraltar,  which  forma  the  N.E.  expansion  of  the  Strait  of  Oibral- 
tar^  the  Fretum  Oaditanum  or  Herculeum  of  the  anoients  and  the 
Estreeho  de  Qibraltar  of  the  Spaniards.  The  widest  part  of  the 
strait  (ca.  28  M.)  is  towards  its  W.  or  oceanic  end,  between  Cape 
Trafalgar  (p.  386)  in  Spain  and  Cape  Spartel  (p.  385)  in  Morocco. 
The  E.  entrance ,  between  the  Millars  of  Hercules'  (p.  376) ,  is 
much  narrower  (1272  M.).  The  narrowest  part  of  all  (8  M.)  is  be- 
tween the  Punta  Marroqui  (p.  381),  at  Tarifa,  and  the  CuehiUoa  de 
Svri8  in  Africa.  Navigation  is  always  difficult  and  sometimes  dan- 
gerous, partly  on  account  of  the  frequent  land-winds  from  both  sides 
and  partly  owing  to  the  strong  currents.  The  lighter  Atlantic  current 
on  the  top  sometimes  sets  at  the  rate  of  5  M.  per  hour ;  below  is 
the  Salter,  and  therefore  heavier,  current  from  the  Mediterranean. 

Gibraltar  Bay,  though  little  ajQTected  by  these  currents,  is  but  an 
indifferent  harbour  owing  to  its  want  of  shelter  on  the  S.W.  and 
£.  The  bay,  which  is  7  M.  long  and  4-5  M.  wide,  is  in  the  form 
of  a  horseshoe,  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  Sierra  de  lo$  QatHles 
(p.  373)  with  the  Punta  Camera ,  on  the  N.  by  the  plain  of  the 
Palmonee  and  Ouadarranque  (p.  372),  and  on  the  E.  by  the  Penin^ 
aula  of  OibraLtar  with  Europa  Point  (Punta  de  Ewropa), 

The  Bock  of  Qibraltar ^  consisting  mainly  of  Jurassic  limestone, 
stretches  almost  exactly  from  N.  to  S.,  with  a  length  of  nearly  3  M. 
and  a  breadth  of  1/2-^4  ^-  ^^-  Bockgun  (1356  ft.),  the  N.  and  lower 
summit,  is  separated  by  a  saddle  from  the  higher  ridge  to  the  S., 
with  the  Signal  Station  (1295  ft.),  the  Highest  Point  (1396  ft.),  and 
Sugar  Loaf  HUl  {O'SLara's  Tower;  1361  ft.).  The  N.  and  E.  sides 
of  this  huge  gray  mass  are  almost  vertical,  while  to  the  S.  and  W. 
it  descends  in  step-like  terraces.  The  slopes  are  overgrown  with 
cactus ,  and  harbour  a  troop  of  about  40  Barbary  apes  (Inuue  eeau" 
datua) ,  the  only  wild  monkeys  in  Europe.  Barbary  partridges  (not 
elsewhere  occurring  in  Europe)  and  rabbits  abound.  The  vegetation 
is  somewhat  more  luxuriant  on  the  lowest  stage  of  the  W.  side. 

The  Rock  is  united  with  Spain  by  a  Aat  sandy  UthmuSy  i^U  M. 
long  and  only  V2^*  wide.  The  central  portion  of  this,  about  550  yds. 
long,  is  maintained  as  a  neutral  zone  between  the  frontiers  of  the 
British  possession  and  Spain.  To  the  N.  of  this  zone  lies  the  strag- 
gling Spanish  frontier-town  of  La  Lvnea  de  la  Coneepeidn  (p.  380). 

'L'aspect  de  Gibraltar  d^payse  tout  k  fait  rimagination ;  ron  ne  salt 
pitta  oh  Ton  est  ni  ce  que  ron  volt.  Figurez  vous  un  immense  rocher 
ou  plutdt  nne  montagne  de  qninze  cents  pieds  de  haut  qui  surgit  sub- 
itement,  brusquement,  du  milieu  de  la  mer  aur  une  terre  si  plate  et  si 
basse  qu^a  peine  rapercoit-on  ....  Ce  qui  ajoute  encore  k  Teffet  de 
rocher  inexplicable,  c'est  sa  forme;  Ton  dirait  un  sphinx  de  granit 
^norme,  d^mesur^,  glgantesque  ....  La  tSte,  un  peu  tronqu^e,  es* 
toum^e  vers  TAfrique ,  qu'elle  semble  regarder  avec  une  attention  rSver 
et  profonde'  (Oautier). 


376   Route  40.  GIBRALTAB.  CUmaU. 

'It  la  the  very  image  of  an  enormous  lion,  croached  between  the 
Atlantic  and  the  Mediterranean,  and  set  there  to  guard  the  passage  for 
its  British  mistress'  (Thackeray). 

North  Towthf  or  the  town  proper  of  Gibraltar,  covers  the  N. 
third  of  the  W.  slope  of  the  rock,  ^hile  the  other  two-thirds  are 
occupied  by  the  grounds  of  the  Alameda,  the  attractive  yillas  of  the 
suburb  of  South  Town^  and  the  Lighthouse  at  Europa  Point.  The 
houses  of  the  town,  of  the  same  neutral  gray  tint  as  the  rock  itself, 
ascend  in  terraces  to  a  height  of  about  260  ft.  above  the  sea.  The 
streets  are  dark  and  narrow,  and  seldom  expand  into  a  square  of 
any  size.  There  are  a  few  small  gardens.  Though  it  has  been  settled 
since  the  English  occupation  in  1704  by  a  heterogeneous  swarm 
of  Jews  and  immigrants  of  all  nationalities,  the  town  has  still  pre- 
served a  predominantly  Spanish  character.  The  most  conspicuous 
figures  in  its  streets  are,  however,  the  red-jaoketed  British  soldier, 
the  kilted  Highlander ,  and  the  numerous  Moors ,  mostly  dealers 
from  Tangier.  The  traveller  coming  from  Spain  is  pleasantly  struck 
with  the  cleanliness  of  the  streets  and  theabsence  of  beggars. 

The  T&ADB  of  Gibraltar  consists  mainly  in  the  importation  of 
live-stock  and  other  provisions  from  Gallcia  and  Morocco,  especially 
from  Tangier  (comp.  p.  383).  There  is  also  a  good  deal  of  smuggling 
over  the  Spanish  frontier.  The  harbour  is  of  great  importance  as  a 
coaling-station  and  is  entered  annually  by  about  5000  vessels,  with 
a  burden  of  4^2  million  tons. 

The  Climate  Is  not  always  such  as  to  Induce  the  visitor  to  pro- 
tract his  sojourn.  The  E.  wind  often  brings  a  damp  fog,  which 
shrouds  the  entire  Rock,  while  the  W.  side  of  the  bay  may  be 
glancing  in  the  sunshine.  Or  the  N.  wind  may  descend,  charged 
with  the  icy  cold  of  the  snow-flelds  of  the  Serrania  de  Ronda  (p.  369). 
In  summer  the  bare  rock  becomes  a  regular  oven,  reverl^erating  the 
rays  of  the  sun  with  almost  intolerable  vigour.  The  Inhabitants 
then  flee  for  refuge  to  their  villas  on  the  isthmus,  which  are  open 
to  the  sea-winds  on  both  sides,  or  to  the  lofty  heights  of  San  Roque 
(p.  373).  The  E.  side  of  the  rock  is  in  shade  in  the  afternoon.  — 
Gibraltar  depends  for  its  Dbinkino  Water  on  the  rain  collected  in 
tanks ,  but  a  good  supply  for  sanitary  purposes  is  obtained  from 
brackish  springs  discovered  in  1868  on  the  North  Front  (p.  379). 
In  antiquity  the  almost  uninhabited  rock  of  Cafoe  (Gibraltar)  and  the 
African  promontory  of  Abyla  or  Avila  (now  the  Sierra  BuUones,  near 
Ceuta;  p.  880)  were  known  as  the  ^Pillars  of  Hercules'.  The  origin  of 
the  name  is  sought  in  the  belief  that  the  early  Phoenician  mariners,  not 
daring  to  pass  from  the  Mediterranean  through  the  'gateway'  of  the  strait 
into  the  open  ocean  beyond,  erected  here  two  silver  columns,  dedicated 
to  Hercules  (Melkart)  f.  The  first  important  settlement  on  this  bay,  per- 
haps the  first  Phoenician  colony  in  any  part  of  Spain,  was  the  town  of 
Carieia  Cp.  373),  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Guadarranque.  Carteia,  which 
was  also  an  important  seaport  under  the  Carthaginians,  received  the  first 

f  The  well-known  sign  for  the  dollar  (|)  is  sometimes  explained  aa  a 
representation    of  the  Pillars  of  Hercules,   united  by  a  soroU  with  the 
'cription  *non  plus  ultra'. 


Hittory.  GIBRALTAR.  40.  Route.  377 

Boman  colony  on  fhe  Iberian  Peninsnla  in  B.C.  171  and  seems  to  have 
vanished  from  the  face  of  the  earth  at  the  time  of  the  Vandal  invasion.  It 
is  not  till  711  that  the  hay  again  appears  in  history.  In  that  year  the  Arab 
Tdrik  ibn  Zijdd,  at  the  head  of  a  plundering  expedition  sent  to  Spain  by 
MAsa.  the  African  viceroy  of  the  Caliph  of  Damascus^  landed  near  the  present 
Algeciras  and  afterwards  established  a  fortress  on  the  commanding  rock  of 
Gibraltar  (comp.  p.  879).  It  is  from  this  Moorish  warrior  that  Gibraltar 
derives  its  modern  name,  a  contracted  form  of  Jebel  al-Tdrik^  or  ^hill  of 
T&Tik\  In  1160  the  fortiflcaMons  were  considerably  strengthened  by  ^Abdel- 
mitmin  (p.  309),  the  Almohad.  In  1309  Guzman  el  Bueno  captured  the  place 
for  Ferdinand  IV.  of  Castile,  but  it  was  recaptured  bv  the  Moors  in  1338, 
and  it  was  not  till  St.  Bernard  s  Day  (Aug.  20th),  1462,  (hat  it  was  again 
taken  by  Ouemany  Duk$  of  Medina  Sidonia,  and  passed  permanently  into 
the  power  of  Castile.  In  1465  the  duke  was  invested  with  the  castle  and 
Gampo  de  Gibraltar  (p.  872)  as  a  perpetual  fief,  but  his  descendants  had 
to  relinquish  it  to  the  crown  in  1503.  Gibraltar  was  sacked  in  1540  by 
ZAa<re<fdlf>  (Barbaiossa),  the  Algerian  pirate,  in  consequence  of  which 
Charles  V.  had  the  works  rebuilt  by  Speckel  of  Strassburg  (1640)  and 
caused  new  fortifications,  extending  from  the  S.  side  of  the  town  to  the 
crest  of  the  rock,  to  be  constructed  by  Giop.  Bait.  Calvi,  an  engineer  of 
Milan  (1552).  In  1610  the  Spanish  admiral  Don  Juan  de  Mmdoea  escorted 
the  Moriscoes  back  to  Morocco  from  the  very  harbour  where  their  fore- 
fathers had  begun  their  victorious  career  through  the  Peninsula.  More 
celebrated  than  all  the  ten  sieges  it  underwent  in  its  earlier  history  was 
that  which  took  place  in  1701  during  the  War  of  the  Spanish  Succession, 
when  the  British  fleet  under  Admiral  Oeorge  Rooke  and  Prince  George  of 
Heese-Dat-metadt  surprised  and  overpowered  the  weak  Spanish  garrison. 
The  twelfth  siege  took  place  in  17o4-5,  when  the  British  succeeded  in 
retaining  possession  of  the  fortress  in  spite  of  a  six  months*  bombardment 
by  the  combined  forces  of  France  and  Spain.  At  the  Peace  of  Utrecht 
in  1715,  and  again  at  the  Peace  of  Seville  in  1720,  after  another  ineffectual 
siege  (1727),  the  Spaniards  had  to  submit  to  leaving  Gibraltar  in  foreign 
hands.  The  last  great  siege  of  Gibraltar  extended  from  1779  to  1788,  and 
bad  tbe  same  result,  in  spite  of  the  floating  batteries  invented  by  the 
Frenchman  D'ilreon,  which,  though  described  as  Hncombustible  and  unsink- 
able%  were  destroyed  by  the  British  artillery.  Since  the  Peace  of  Ver- 
sailles (1768)  Great  Britain's  claim  to  Gibraltar  has  not  been  questioned. 
The  older  Fortifications,  mainly  mounted  with  guns  of  a  fome- 
what  antiquated  pattern,  include  the  numerous  batteries  along  the  seashore 
from  the  Land  Port  on  the  N.  to  Europa  Point  on  the  S.,  the  batteries 
on  the  S.  slope  above  Europa  Point,  and  the  subterranean  galleries  on 
the  N.  fide.  The  summit  of  the  rock  has,  however,  recently  been  fortified 
with  modem  guns  of  the  largest  calibre,  one  result  of  which  is  that 
strangers  are  no  longer  allowed  to  visit  the  Signal  Station  and  Highest  Point. 

The  Steamers  drop  their  anchors  in  tbe  unsheltered  bay  at  a  con- 
siderable distance  from  the  town.  Passengers  are  landed  by  small 
boat  at  the  Old  Mole^  constructed  early  in  the  14th  century.  A 
new  pier  has  been  built  for  the  Algeciras  steamers  (p.  373).  Thenre 
we  proceed  to  theS.E.  through  the  Old  Molt  Oate,  past  the  Market, 
and  through  the  inner  Waterport  Oate,  on  the  site  of  the  wharf 
(ataratana ,  p.  326)  of  the  Moors,  to  (6  min.)  Casemates  Squarh. 

Watbeport  Street,  running  hence  to  the  S.,  contains  most  of 
the  hotels,  the  post  and  telegraph  office,  and  other  public  buildings. 
Along  with  the  street  named  Jri>^  Town,  running  parallel  on  tbe  W., 
it  forms  the  focus  of  business. 

Waterport  Street  ends  at  Commercial  Square,  containing  the 
Exchange  (1818),  beyond  which  it  is  continued  by  Church  Strf^* 
In  this  street,  to  the  left,  stands  the  Roman  Catholic  CbI? 


378  Route  40.  GIBRALTAR.  GaUerien. 

(St.  Mary  the  Crowned),  originally  a  Moorish  mosque  and  rebuilt  by 
Ferdinand  and  Isabella  in  1502.  It  was  robbed  of  its  treasures  of 
art  in  1704  and  now  offers  little  of  interest  except  the  Moorish 
Court  of  Oranges.  —  A  little  farther  on,  on  the  same  side,  is  the 
Court  of  Law,  with  a  pretty  garden.  To  the  right,  in  Cathedral 
Square,  stands  the  Anglican  Cathedral  (Church  of  the  Holy  Trinity), 
erected  in  the  Moorish  style  in  1821. 

Church  Street,  in  turn,  is  prolonged  by  SouTHPoaT  Street  ,  in 
which,  to  the  right,  is  the  Convent,  or  residence  of  the  Governor 
(Sir  Robert  Biddulph)^  erected  in  1531  as  a  Franciscan  convent  In 
the  garden  is  a  dragon-tree  (Dracaena  draco),  believed  to  be  at  least 
1000  years  old.  —  The  street  ends  at  Southport  Qate,  erected  under 
Charles  V.  Outside  the  gate,  to  the  left,  lies  the  small  Trafalgdr 
Cemetery,  containing  the  graves  of  many  of  the  British  who  fell  at 
the  battle  of  Trafalgar  (p.  386).  To  the  right  are  the  Ragged  Staff 
Stairs,  where  the  British  under  Adm.  Rooke  landed  in  1704. 

The  *Alameda,  beyond  the  gate,  laid  out  by  Governor  George 
Don  (ca.  1814),  is  one  of  the  chief  lions  of  Gibraltar.  Its  luxur- 
iant sub-tropical  vegetation  includes  gigantic  geraniums  and  he- 
liotropes, castor-oil  plants,  daturas,  and  daphnes.  In  the  midst  of 
it  lie  the  Assembly  Rooms  (p.  374)  and  a  Cafi- Restaurant  (band, 
see  p.  374).  Two  indiflferent  busts  commemorate  the  Duke  of 
Wellington  and  General  Eliott,  the  defender  of  Gibraltar  in  the 
'Great  Siege'  (p.  377). 

To  the  S.W.  of  the  Alameda  lies  theKaval  Harbour,  with  the  Dock 
.Yard,  founded  in  the  17th  cent  and  recently  much  enlarged.  The 
harbour  is  protected  by  the  long  New  Mole,  begun  in  1620  and 
much  lengthened  in  1851.  Additional  harbour-works  have  been 
built  quite  lately.  Steep  streets  ascend  from  the  New  Mole  Parade 
through  the  suburb  of  Rosia  to  the  Europa  Main  Road. 

The  *£nropa  Main  Bead ,  beginning  at  Prince  Edward's  Gate 
at  the  N.£.  corner  of  the  Alameda,  ascends  gently  along  the  W. 
slope  of  the  rock,  between  villas  and  gardens,  to  the  point  of  view 
named  The  Mount.  It  then  runs  past  the  Naval  Hospital  and  above 
the  Buena  Vista  Barracks  to  (l'/2  M.)  Europa  Pointy  the  S.  extrem- 
ity of  the  peninsula,  hollowed  out  by  the  waves.  A  large  Light- 
house was  erected  here  in  1841  on  the  site  of  the  once  much  fre- 
quented sanctuary  of  the  Virgen  de  Europa.  —  The  road  now  turns 
to  the  N.E.,  affording  a  fine  view  of  the  Mediterranean  coast  of  Spain, 
dominated  by  the  Sierra  de  Estepona  (p.  372),  and  passes  the 
Govebnor's  Cottage,  or  summer-villa  of  the  Governor.  Farther 
on,  amid  the  cliffs,  is  the  Morikeys^  Cave,  where  the  vertical  fall 
of  the  rocks  prevents  the  prolongation  of  the  road  to  Catalan  Bay 
(p.  380). 

The  so-called  ^Galleries  form  the  second  great  sight  of  Gibraltar. 
They  consist  of  a  series  of  passages  tunnelled  through  the  living  rock 

he  N.  face  of  the  peninsula  during  the  'Great  Siege'  (1782). 


Moorish  Ca$(U.  GIBRALTAR.  40,  Route.   379 

They  are  said  to  haire  been  suggested  by  a  Sergeant  Inee  and  were 
constructed  under  the  care  ot  Lieut,  Evolethy  R.E.  We  ascend  from 
Waterport  St.  through  Bell  Lane ,  which  leads  to  the  E.  opposite 
the  post-office,  and  then  mount,  partly  by  flights  of  steps,  to  (lOmin.) 
the  Artillery  BarraekSj  which  lie  to  the  left  below  the  Moorish 
Castle  (see  below).  Here  we  inscribe  our  names  in  a  book  and  have 
a  soldier  assigned  as  guide  (fee  1-2  p.).  Visitors  are  generally 
shown  part  of  the  Lower  or  Vnion  OalUry  (entrance  690  ft.  above 
the  sea),  commanding  views  of  the  bay  and  the  Mediterranean  coast. 
The  visit  takes  about  Y2  h^-  Wraps  are  desirable,  as  the  galleries 
are  damp  and  chilly. 

The  Moorish  Castle,  above  the  Artillery  Barracks,  was  begun 
by  Tdrik  in  713  (p.  377)  and  finished  in  742.  The  battered  Torre 
del  Homenaje  contains  some  interesting  apartments,  and  the  view 
from  the  platform  is  very  fine.  —  Adjoining  the  ramparts  of  the 
castle  is  the  CivU  Priton,  Farther  to  the  S.  is  the  Castle  Tank,  a 
large  reservoir  for  the  water  from  the  North  Front  (see  below). 

A  visit  to  the  Signal  Station  (1295  ft.) ,  the  second-highest 
point  on  the  rock ,  where  all  vessels  entering  the  straits  are  an- 
nounced to  Gibraltar,  is  now  limited  to  British  subjects  armed  with 
a  permission  from  the  Governor's  Oi'flce(comp.  p.  377).  The  ♦View 
embraces  the  entire  Bay  of  Gibraltar ,  with  the  green  Gampo  de 
Gibraltar  on  the  N.  and  the  Sierra  de  los  Gaznles  on  the  W. ;  the 
coast  of  Morocco  from  the  Sierra  Bullones  and  Geuta  to  the  Bay  of 
Tangiers  and  Cape  Spartel;  and  the  coast  of  the  Mediterranean  to 
the  N.E.,  with  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  the  valleys  of  the  Alpujarras. 
—  A  similar  view  is  obtained  from  0^Hara*8  Tower  (1360  ft.),  to 
the  S.  (inaccessible),  named  after  a  ruined  tower,  said  to  have  been 
built  during  the  'Great  Siege'  by  Gen.  O'flara  to  observe  the  Spanish 
fleet  in  the  harbour  of  Cadiz  (!). 

St.  Michael's  Cave  is  in  that  part  of  the  rock  now  closed  to  the 
public.  It  is  one  of  the  numerous  stalactite  caverns  in  the  heart  of 
the  rock,  anciently  used  either  as  dwellings  or  as  graves,  and  often 
containing  the  bones  of  prehistoric  animals.  The  entrance  (1080  ft. 
above  the  sea)  is  on  a  zigzag  path  descending  from  the  ridge 
towards  the  S.  The  interior  contains  a  large  hall,  230  ft.  long 
and  65  ft.  high,  which  cannot  be  properly  seen  without  torches  and 
Bengal  fire. 

To  the  N.E.  of  Casemates  Square  (p.  377)  is  the  Land  Port  or 
Spanish  Gate,  which  is  adjoined  by  strong  fortifications  and  is  closed 
at  sunset,  after  gunfire  (see  p.  374).  Outside  it  is  the  so-called 
Inundation,  an  area  that  can  be  put  under  water  if  desirable  for 
purposes  of  defence.  Beyond  this  lies  the  North  Front,  or  British 
part  of  the  isthmus ,  lying  at  the  foot  of  the  vertical  N.  face  of  the 
rock.  The  Devil's  Tower  Road  runs  hence  to  the  S.E.,  passing  (left) 
ihe  Jewish,  Roman  Catholic,  and  Protestant  Cemeteries,  tothe(V2^0 
DeviVs  Tower,  an  old  watch-tower,  probably  built  by  the  Genoese. 


380  Route  40.  GIBRALTAR. 

The  road  then  turns  to  the  right  (S.)  and  leads  to  (1/2  M.)  Catalan 
Bay,  where  the  steep  sandy  side  of  the  rock  barely  leaves  room  for 
the  flshing-hamlet  of  Caleta,  which  is  often  exposed  to  danger  from 
stones  falling  from  ahoTO.  With  the  visit  to  this  bay  may  be  conveni- 
ently combined  an  excursion  to  La  Linea  de  la  Concepci6n,  a  town 
(30,000  inhab.)  on  the  Spanish  frontier,  1  ^2^.  from  Gibraltar,  beyond 
the  neutral  zone  (p.  376).  During  the  siege  of  1727  the  Spaniards  took 
advantage  of  an  armistice  to  construct  an  entrenchment  between  the 
Bay  and  the  Mediterranean,  defended  at  the  W.  end  by  the  Castillo 
dt  San  Felipe  and  at  the  E.  by  the  Ca$tillo  de  Santa  Barbara,  In  1810, 
however,  these  works  were  razed  by  the  British  at  the  request  of  the 
Spaniards  themselves,  as  the  Spanish  army  under  BaUeateros^  which 
had  taken  refuge  under  the  guns  of  Gibraltar,  feared  that  they  might 
be  taken  advantage  of  by  the  French,  La  Linea  is  thus  now  an  un- 
defended town,  inhabited  mainly  by  labourers  and  smugglers. 
Among  the  former  are  a  few  Chinese  from  the  Philippine  Islands, 
who  come  hither  after  serving  criminal  sentences  at  Ceuta  and 
Melilla.  The  market  of  Gibraltar  is  supplied  from  the  Vegetaiile  Oar- 
dens  of  La  Linea,  which  extend  on  the  N.  to  the  Sierra  Carbonera. 
From  La  Linea  we  may  walk  or  drive  along  the  beacb,  enjoying  all 
the  way  a  magnificent  view  of  the  Bock,  to  (IV2  M.)  Campamento^  a 
village  of  labourers  and  smugglers,  and  also  a  sea-bathing  resort,  con- 
taining several  handsome  villas.  It  has  a  small  eucalyptas-grove.  About 
V2  M.  farther  is  Futnte  Mayorga  or  Orange  Orove,  the  port  of  S.  Boque. 
—  A  road  also  connects  La  Linea  with  (3  K.)  San  Roque  (p.  373). 


41.  From  Oibraltar  to  Cadiz  vift  Tangier. 

The  steamer  Joaquin  del  Piilago^  of  the  Campania  TraeatUmtica^ 
leaves  Gibraltar  every  Tues.,  Thurs.,  and  Sat.  at  7  a.m.  for  Tangier,  and 
goes  on  thence  at  10.30  a.m.  to  Cadiz^  which  it  reaches  at  5.30  p.m.  It 
starts  for  the  return-journey  on  Hon.,  Wed.,  and  Friday.  —  Communication 
with  Tangier  (ca.  40  M.,  in  2Vs  hrs.)  is  also  maintained  by  small  Local 
Boats  (used  chiefly  for  bringing  cattle  from  Tangier).  The  local  boats  ply 
daily,  except  Frid.  (first-class  fare  by  the  English  steamers  10  p.,  return 
fare  15  p.,  second-class  5  p. ;  by  the  Spanish  steamers  15  p.).  Their  offices 
in  Tangier  are  below  the  Small  Soceo.  The  hours  of  starting  are  very 
irregular.  —  Tariff  for  landing  and  embarking  at  Gibraltar,  see  p.  374;  at 
Tangier,  see  p.  381 ;  at  Cadiz,  see  p.  434. 

The  excursion  to  Tangier  is  well  worth  making  in  good  weather  for 
its  charming  views  of  sea  and  land  alone,  to  say  nothing  of  the  highly 
interesting  glimpse  it  affords  of  the  world  of  the  Moslem  and  the  Moor. 
It  also  throws  a  side  light  on  the  manners  and  customs  of  Spain  itself, 
revealing  the  Moorish  origin  of  many  traits  of  the  Andalusian  and  other 
Spaniards. 

Oibraltar,  see  p.  373.  —  The  steamer  traverses  the  Bay  of 
Gibraltar  towards  the  S.W.  To  the  right  is  the  Punta  Camero 
(p.  375) ;  to  the  left  rises  the  limestone  mass  of  the  ^Sierra  BuUone$ 
or  Djebel  Miisa  (*hlll  of  Musa';  2710  ft.),  the  African  TiUar  of 
Hercules^  which,  like  Gibraltar  itself,  commemorates  one  of  the 
Moorish  conquerors  of  Spain  (comp.  p.  377).  On  the  treeless  coast 
of  Andalusia,  which  is  enlivened  only  by  the  numerous  ancient 


in 

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Geo  gr;qih..Aiist.-VT>n  Wagner  A  Debes,  Lopvic;. 


TANGIER.  41.  Route.   381 

watch-towers  (atdLayaa),  appears  the  town  of  TaHfCj  at  the  land- 
ward end  of  a  small  Isthmus,  which  lies  at  the  hase  of  the  PurUa 
Marroquij  the  southernmost  point  of  the  mainland  of  Europe  (86°  N. 
lat.).  The  opposite  coast  of  Africa  is  occupied  hy  the  Angera,  a 
wild  tribe  of  Berbers,  nominally  subject  to  the  Sultan  of  Morocco. 
In  the  distance  appear  the  white  houses  of  Tangier,  in  the  middle 
of  a  beautifully  curved  bay,  bounded  on  the  E.  by  Cape  Malabata. 


Tangier.  -^  ArriTal,  A  now  Pier  has  recently  been  built,  by  which 
the  landing  is  much  facilitated.  The  Ctutotn  Home  Examination  is  lenient, 
and  a  passport  is  not  required. 

Hotels.  *H6tbl  Gontimkktal  (PI.  0,  D,  3,  4),  in  a  quiet  aituation  a 
little  to  the  N.  Ot  the  harbour,  with  a  fine  view  of  the  sea,  English 
management,  pens,  from  iO«.;  *HdT.  Villa  f>B  Fkaitok,  commandingly 
fituated  on  the  hill  above  the  Socco  de  Barra  (PI.  A,  5) ,  1  H.  from  the 
harbour,  recommended  for  a  stay,  pens,  from  8«.  —  Less  pretending: 
*HdT.  Kkw  Tosk,  on  the  beaeh  ontaide  the  town  (PI.  0,  D,  6),  1/2  M.  to  the 
S.  of  the  harbour,  with  a  small  garden,  pens,  from  6«.;  *HdT.  Univebsal 
(near  the  last),  unpretending,  pens.  6-6*.;  Hot.  Golok,  behind  :the  Ghreat 
Mosque,  near  the  British  Consulate  (PL  G,5),  good  cuitine,  recommended 
in  winter,  pens,  from  St.;  Hot.  Bbistol,  in  the  Small  Socco,  near  flie 
British  Post  Office  •,  Tbiqo,  in  the  middle  of  the  town ;  Maolkan,  in  the 
Socco  de  Barra,  these  two  primitive.  —  jRsAfion  Vc^erUina  (German),  on  the 
Fea  Road  (comp.  PI.  A,  5,  6),  V«  M.  from  the  Socco  de  Barra,  pens.  6-9#.  — 
Wine  is  not  included  in  the  above  charges.  Payment  is  expected  in  British 
or  Spanish  money  at  the  current  rate  of  exchange. 

Oafes.  French  Caji^  in  the  Small  Socco  (PI.  B,  C,  4,  6),  next  door  to 
the  British  Post  Office.  There  are  several  Arab  Coffee  Hotuetf  mostly  in  the 
hands  of  the  guides,  who  arrange  evening  entertainments  for  the  tourist, 
with  invited  guests  and  Moorish  musicians.  On  these  occasions  a  charge 
of  1  p.  is  made  for  a  cup  of  Turkish  coffee. 

Post  Offices.  The  British^  French,  and  Spanish  Offices  are  all  in  the 
Small  Socco  (PI.  B,  G,  4,  5).  —  Telegraph  Offices.  BrUith  Telegraph  Office^ 
on  the  way  to  the  Marshan  (PI.  A,  3,  2);  Bpanish  Telegraph  Office  (PK  G,  4), 
near  the  Small  Socco. 

Banks.  Comptoir  National  SEscompte  (PI.  G,  4),  to  the  K.  of  the  Small 
Socco ;  ffHsmer  A  JoacMmssohn ,  near  the  Small  Socco  (Fuente  Nueva) ; 
irahon(P\.  B,  5),  to  the  S.  of  the  main  street;  Parienie^  in  the  street  lead- 
ing from  the  main  street  to  the  U.  S.  Gonsulate  General. 

Oriental  Bazaars.  Joseph  Sadehy  opposite  the  Roman  Gatholic  Ghurch 
(PI.  B,  5);  Bensakin  7.,  near  the  Bab  de  Fez  (PI.  A,  5);  Bensakin  II.,  in  the 
middle  of  the  town;  Oriental  Bazaar^  in  the  main  street,  opposite  the  Great 
Mosque.    Kot  more  than  half  the  price  demanded  should  ever  be  offered. 

Photographs.  Cavitta,  next  door  to  the  British  Gonsulate  (PL  B,  5); 
Macleod  A  Brash^  near  the  Small  Socco. 

Guides,  not  indispensable  in  the  town,  B-lOp.  per  day  (careful  bar- 
gaining necessary). 

Saddle  Horses  and  Mules.  Peter  Saceone^  at  the  Bristol  Hotel  (see 
above),  3  p.  per  half-day,  5-7  p.  per  day;  Pedro,  in  the  Socco  de  Barra, 
adjoining  the  German  Embassy;  Merghi^  on  the  way  to  the  beach.  — 
Donkeys  may  be  hired  in  the  Soceo  de  Barra,  1V«-1V«  P-  Per  ^^7->  ^*tb 
driver  27«  p. 

Baths  at  the  hotels.  —  Sea  Baths  (PI.  0,  D,  6).  DOioias  de  la  Playa, 
Paraiso  de  la  Playa^  open  from  May  to  Oct.,  bath  25  c,  with  costume  50  c. 
Poor  Spanish  cafes-restaurants  are  attached  to  the  baths.  The  beach  is 
excellent. 

British  Legation  {Sir  Arthur  Nicholson;  PI.  G,  5),  outside  the  to^ 
near    the   Hotel  Villa   de  France.    —   U.  S.  Consulate    General  {JFr 


382  Route  41.  TANGIER.  From  Oibraltar 

C.  Partridge f  PI.  B,  5),  in  the  S.  pari  of  the  town.  —  Britiah  Consulate 
{Herbert  E.  White;  PI.  B,  6),  to  the  S.E.  of  the  Great  Mosqne. 

English  Ohiireh  Berviee  on  Snn.  at  10  a.m.,  daring  the  winter  and  the 
early  spring  months,  in  the  handsome  new  EngUah  Church  above  the  Socco 
de  Barra  (Fl.  A,  5).  Presbyterian  Service  in  the  chapel  near  the  road 
leading  from  the  Socco  de  Barra  to  the  beach.  —  Spanish  Boman  Oatholie 
Ohnrch  (PI.  B,  5),  in  the  main  street. 

EngUsh  Shysieiaii.    Dr.  />.  0.  Smith,  Villa  Valentine  (see  p.  381). 

Spanish  Theatre,  pear  the  American  Consulate  General  (PI.  B,  6),  per- 
formances in  winter  only.  —  Horse  Kaoes  in  spring  and  summer  in  the 
Bnbana  valley  (p.  385).  —  Display  of  *Arab  Horsemanship  or  ''Fankuies' 
(Lddb  el  Barood)  on  Mohammedan  festivals  at  the  Boceo  de  Banra  or  the 
Marshan.  —  The  Sport  in  the  vicinity  of  Tangier  includes  pig-sticking, 
fox-hunting,  and  the  shooting  of  partridges,  woodcocks,  snipe,  and  hare. 

Steamers.  To  London  by  the  Forwood  Co.y  every  3  weeks  (8i.);  to 
Marseilles  by  the  French  Packet  every  fortnieht  (100  Ar.))  to  Hamburg  by 
the  Woermann  Line  twice  a  month  (8  days ;  200  Jf)\  to  Brake  and  Hamburg 
via  Lisbon  and  Oporto,  by  the  Oldenburg  A  Portuguese  Co,,  once  a  month  \ 
to  Barcelona  and  Genoa  by  the  Sloman  Line, 

Ohief  Attractions  (two  days).  1st  Day.  Morning:  Main  Street  and  Smedl 
Socco  (p.  383);  Socco  de  Barra  (p.  384);  Marshan  (p.  884h  KaOta  (p.  384). 
Afternoon :  Walk  on  the  BeaOi  (p.  385).  —  2nd  Day.  Excursion  to  Cape 
Spartel  and  the  QroUo  of  Hercules.  — r  Strangers  should  not  attempt  to  enter 
the  mosques  or  approach  the  tombs  of  Mohammedan  saints,  and  they  should 
avoid  the  side>streets  after  dusk. 

Tangier  or  Tangiera,  Arab.  Tandja,  the  capital  of  the  Moroccan 
province  of  Hadbatj  the  chief  commercial  town  of  Morocco,  and  the 
seat  of  the  representatives  of  the  Great  Powers,  is  picturesquely 
situated  on  the  hilly  W.  margin  of  the  shallow,  semicircular  Bay  of 
Tangiers,  not  far  from  the  site  of  the  ancient  Roman  Tingis  (p.  B85). 
Pop.  12,000.  The  white  houses  of  the  town  are  surrounded  by  a 
wall  with  old  gates  and  towers,  and  on  the  highest  point,  on  the 
edge  of  the  Marshan  (p.  884),  rises  the  Ka^a  or  Kasaba  (citadel). 
In  spite  of  the  copious  stream  of  Spanish  and  other  European  im- 
migrants, who  now  form  about  one-third  of  the  population,  Tangier 
still  presents  a  more  characteristic  picture  of  an  Oriental  town  than 
almost  any  other  seaport  on  the  N.  coast  of  Africa.  Its  narrow  and 
uneven  streets  hardly  afford  room  for  the  noisy  crowds  and  heavy- 
laden  asses,  and  are  entirely  Impassable  for  anything  on  wheels. 
The  one-storied  houses  of  the  Moors,  overtopped  here  and  there  by 
a  slender  minaret ,  have  each  a  small  interior  court  and  present 
nothing  but  a  bare  and  windowless  wall  to  the  street ;  but  there  are 
now  a  great  number  of  houses  built  by  Europeans  and  Jews  in  the 
Spanish  style,  with  two  or  more  stories.  After  the  early  morning 
call  of  the  Muezzin  (p.  310)  the  whole  place  is  as  busy  as  a  swarm 
of  bees  and  as  variegated  as  a  kaleidoscope.  The  solemn  Moors, 
stalking  along  in  white  or  coloured  burnous,  yellow  slippers, 
and  brilliant  turban  or  fez,  are  elbowed  by  equally  swarthy  Jews 
of  Morocco  in  black  caftan  and  fez;  while  wild-eyed  Kabyles,  the 
descendants  of  the  old  Rifflan  Pirates,  from  the  Berber  villages  of 
the  neighbourhood,  mingle  with  negro-slaves  from  the  interior  of 
*he  Dark  Continent.    A  few  Arab  sects  wear  short  pig-tails  like 


to  CadU.  TANGIER.  41,  Route.  383 

those  of  the  Spanish  bull-fighters.    Garavans  of  camels  from  Fez, 
Morocco,  etc.,  may  be  seen  on  Sun.  in  the  Socco  de  Barra  (p.  384). 

Besides  the  three  market-places,  the  harbour  is  also  a  scene  of 
great  liyellness,  especially  in  the  morning.  Cattle,  poultry,  game, 
and  eggs  for  Gibraltar  are  almost  always  being  embarked}  the  oxen 
are  unceremoniously  and  cruelly  swung  on  board  by  ropes  attached 
to  their  horns.  Here,  as  in  the  streets,  every  operation  is  accom- 
panied,by  yelling  and  quarrelling. 

The  filthiness  of  the  streets  is  a  surprize  even  to  the  traveller 
who  has  just  quitted  Spain.  The  health  of  the  inhabitants,  never- 
theless, is  on  the  whole  very  satisfactory,  thanks  to  the  advantages 
of  an  almost  unequalled  climate.  The  prevalent  winds  all  blow 
from  the  ocean,  greatly  alleviating  the  heat  in  the  town  and  on  the 
heights  of  the  Marshan  and  Monte  (p.  385)  to  the  W.  of  it,  and 
bringing  frequent  showers  in  the  cool  season  (annual  rain -fall 
36  inches).   Snow  and  frost  are  almost  unknown. 

Hiitory.  Tingis^  probably  one  of  the  earliest  settlements  on  the  si  raits, 
does  not  appear  in  history  nntil  the  Roman  period.  Emp.  Claudim  made 
it  a  Roman  colony,  and  Emp.  Otho  combined  the  K.  coast  of  Africa,  under 
the  name  of  Hitpania  Tingitanu  and  with  Tingis  as  capital,  with  the 
Spanish  province  of  Beetica  (p.  294).  In  the  Christian  period  the  town 
shared  the  vicissitudes  of  S.  Spain  and  belonged  in  turn  to  the  Vandals 
and  the  Romans  of  the  Eastern  Empire.  About  the  year  700  it  fell  into  the 
hands  of  the  Arab  MUsa^  and  became  the  capital  of  Maghrth  al-Aktd  — ,  t.e. 
the  'extreme  W.  province'  of  the  Caliphate  of  Damascus,  corresponding  to 
the  modem  Morocco.  Though  the  Berber  tribes  of  this  district  ranked  among 
the  most  zealous  champions  of  Islam,  they  did  not  long  submit  to  the 
rule  of  the  Arabs,  but  established  their  independence  of  Damascus  as 
early  as  741.  For  a  short  time  afterwards  they  acknowledged  the  suzerainty 
of  the  Caliph  of  Cordova,  but  for  the  most  part  they  were  engaged  either 
in  threatening  on  their  own  account  the  independence  of  the  Moorish  states 
of  Spain  or  helping  them  in  their  struggles  with  the  Spanish  Christians. 
From  1471  to  1662  Tangier  belonged  to  Portugal,  and  during  this  period  its 
population  wa?  lai^ely  modified  by  the  immigration  of  Spanish  Jews  and 
the  expulsion  of  the  Moriscoes  (p.  248).  In  1662  it  passed  into  the  hands 
of  Great  Britain,  as  part  of  the  dowry  of  the  Infanta  Catharine  of  Bra- 
ganza,  wife  of  Cnarles  II.  The  weak  and  unenterprizing  British  rulers  of 
the  period  found  it  a  troublesome  and  unprofitable  possession,  and  after 
several  unsuccessful  encountera  with  the  Moors,  they  resigned  their  pos- 
session  of  Tangier  in  1684,  having  previously  destroyed  its  fortifications 
and  the  long  mole,  the  remains  of  which  are  still  visible  at  low  water. 
Since  then  the  town  has  belonged  uninterruptedly  to  Morocco.  Its  present 
fortifications,  mounted  with  somewhat  antiquated  ordnance,  were  con- 
structed by  British  engineers. 

From  the  landing-place  we  pass  through  the  B6b  al-Marsd,  or 
Gate  of  the  Port,  which  is  defended  by  two  batteries,  into  the  Main 
Stbbbt  or  Rub  des  Che^tiens  (PI.  0,  B,  4,  5),  which  curves  round 
the  flank  of  the  hill  and  ascends  to  the  Outer  Market  (p.  384). 
Beyond  the  Great  Mosque,  with  its  handsome  portal  and  Giralda- 
like  tower,  we  reach  the  Small  Boceo  (PI.  B,  0,  4,  5),  the  business 
focus  of  the  town,  with  the  three  post-offices  mentioned  at  p.  381 
and  many  shops  and  caf^s.  —  Above  this  inner  market-place,  to 
the  left,  lie  the  Spanish  Roman  CatholiG  Church  (PI.  B,  5)  and  the 
Morocco  Ministry  of  Foreign  Affairs. 


384   Route  41.  TANGIER.  From  Oihraltar 

The  street  ends  at  the  Bdh  el-Dakhl,  or  Inner  Town  Gate,  be- 
yond which  lies  the  Situate  of  the  Blacksmiths,  To  the  left  is  the 
New  Market  (PI.  A,  5),  the  regular  market  for  meat  and  vegetables, 
which  also  commnnieates  with  the  Outer  Market.  —  A  gate  to  the 
right  of  the  Square  of  the  Blacksmiths  leads  to  the  Union  Market, 
with  two  long  rows  of  booths  and  a  caravanserai  {Fcwlak;  PI.  A,  4) 
on  its  N.£.  side.  Issuing  by  the  N.  gate,  to  the  left  of  this  fondak, 
and  then  following  the  town-wall  to  the  right,  we  pass  (left)  the 
Christian  Cemetery  (PI.  A,  4)  and  reach  the  Kasha  and  the  Marshan 
(see  below). 

The  Bdb  el-Faes,  or  Outer  Town  Gate,  opposite  the  Inner  Gate 
(see  above),  opens  on  the  Socco  de  Barra  (PI.  A,  6),  Outer  Market, 
or  Oreat  Socco  (Arab,  svtkh ,  market),  a  visit  to  which  on  one  of 
the  market-days  (Sun.  and  Thurs. ,  preferably  the  former)  should 
on  no  account  be  omitted.  On  those  days  the  whole  of  the  irre- 
gular and  uneven  space  is  covered  with  an  indescribable  mass 
of  Oriental  humanity.  Through  the  rows  of  the  sellers,  many  of 
whom  are  closely- veiled  and  white-robed  women  ^  press  the  Tanger- 
ines ,  haggling  noisily  over  every  purchase.  Smaller  groups  sur- 
round the  Jugglers,  snake-charmers,  and  story-tellers.  Importunate 
beggars  thrust  their  mutilated  limbs  in  the  faces  of  the  passers- 
by.  In  the  centre  of  the  space  is  the  sanctuary  of  i^di  Makhfij  the 
patron-saint  of  the  market. 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  Socco  de  Barra  is  a  bridle-path  (comp. 
PI.  A,  5)  leading  to  the  W.,  past  the  (right)  VUla  of  the  Austrian 
Minister,  to  (8/4  M.)  the  Villa  Siiou ,  now  occupied  by  the  Belgian 
vice-consul  and  standing  in  a  beautiful  garden  (fee  to  gatekeeper 

V2-1  p.)- 

At  the  gate  of  this  villa  the  path  forks.  The  path  in  a  straight 
direction  leads  to  the  Bubana  Valley  and  on  to  the  Monte  and  Cape 
Sparta  (see  p.  385).  That  diverging  to  the  right  sweeps  round  to 
the  farther  part  of  the  Marshan,  the  lofty  plateau  to  the  N.W.  of 
the  town.  Here,  between  a  Berber  village,  or  douSr,  and  the  pre- 
cipitous N.  or  sea-front,  lies  the  largest  Mohammedan  Cemetery  of 
Tangier.  Visitors  are  admitted,  but  should  not  approach  the  mourn- 
ers at  an  interment.  The  part  of  the  Marshan  adjoining  the  town 
is  occupied  by  villas,  some  of  which  belong  to  Europeans.  On  the 
margin  of  the  plateau,  and  in  some  of  the  adjoining  plots  of  ground, 
are  the  remains  of  a  few  Phoenician  Tombs,  in  the  form  of  rectangles 
cut  in  the  living  rock  and  lying  from  E.  to  W. 

The  E.  end  of  the  Marshan,  about  390  ft.  above  the  town,  is 
occupied  by  the  Kaiba  or  Kasaba  (Pi.  A,  B,  2),  the  citadel  of  Tan- 
gier, erected  in  the  Idth  cent,  and  now  consisting  of  an  extensive 
group  of  dilapidated  and  unimposing  buildings.  The  Upper  ICcLsba 
Gate  (PI.  A,  2)  leads  to  the  Naham  Battery  (PI.  A,  1),  which  com- 
mands a  magnificent  view  of  the  Bay  of  Tangier  and  the  Straits  of 
Gibraltar  (fee  50  c).   A  little  lower  down  are  i  Mosque,  the  Palace 


io  Cadiz.  TANGIER.  4/.  fioate.   385 

of  the  Sultan,  the  Residence  of  the  Oovemor  (Pasha  or  Cadi),  and 
several  Qovemment  BuUdinga  (comp.  PI.  A,  B,  2,  3).  Some  of  the 
latter  abut  on  a  large  court,  adorned  with  wood-carvings  and 
mosaics.  The  Pasha  may  occasionally  be  seen  administering  justice 
at  the  entrance  of  his  palace.  Strangers  may  generally  obtain  per- 
mission to  visit  the  Oovernment  Prison^  in  which  the  male  prisoners 
are  herded  together  without  distinction  and  are  occupied  in  basket- 
weaving  and  other  similar  employments.  There  is  a  small  prison 
for  women  close  by.  A  visit  may  also  be  paid  to  the  Treasury,  the 
beautiful  rooms  of  which,  resembling  those  of  the  Alhambra,  are 
of  very  early  date  (fee  1  p.).  The  Harem  of  the  Paeha  is  fitted  up 
in  a  similar  style  and  may  be  visited  by  ladies,  who  should  not 
omit  to  provide  themselves  with  sweetmeats  or  other  small  presents 
for  the  inmates  (fee  of  1  p.  to  the  porteress).  —  From  the  E.  Oate 
of  ihe  Kcuba  (PI.  B,  2)  a  steep  footpath  descends  to  the  town,  of 
the  white  houses  of  which ,  as  well  as  of  the  beach,  it  soon  offers 
an  unexpected  and  beautiful  *View. 

BxoOKsioNs.  At  low  tide  the  sandy  beach  to  tUo  S.E.  of  the  town 
affords  an  excellent  opportunity  for  a  ride.  Beyond  the  Bathing  Places 
(p.  381)  we  may  go  on  to  (»/4-l  hr.)  the  Roman  Bridge  over  the  little  river 
Oaltres  and  beyond  this  to  the  Buins  of  Tingis  (Arab.  Tandja  Bdlia)^ 
which  now  lie  at  some  distance  from  the  sea.  The  old  Roman  water 
gate  is  still  in  fair  preservation.  From  Tingis  we  may  sweep  round  to 
the  N.  to  the  Torre  Blandllo,  an  old  Moorish  battery  on  Cape  Maldbata 
(p.  3:1),  a  ride  of  ^^If'S^j^  hrs.  from  Tangier.  —  Another  pleasant  bridle 
route  leads  inland  (S.W.)  from  the  beach,  passing  between  orange-groves, 
to  the  (IV4  hr.)  ylllage  of  a^^ani.  Farther  on  it  joins  the  Fez  Road^  by 
which  we  may  return  to  the  Outer  Market  and  the  Upper  Town  Gate. 
—  The  highly  attractive  *Szounion  to  Oape  Spartel  takes  almost  a  whole 
day  (mule  5  p. ;  mule-driver  or  guide,  as  well  as  luncheon,  desirable). 
We  ride  to  the  Villa  Sixou  fp.  384)  either  vi&  the  Harshan  or  Yi&  the 
Outer  Harked,  and  then  descend  into  the  Bv^fM  Valley^  which  is  watered 
by  the  insignificant  Jew  River  (*U  hr.  to  the  W.  of  Tangier).  From  here 
we  may  ascend  direct  to  the  top  of  the  Djehel  Keibir  (1070  ft.),  which  is 
overgrown  with  cistns,  heaths,  and  other  shrubs.  Or  (better)  we  may 
turn  to  the  right  and  visit  the  Monte^  a  summer-colony  of  charming  vil- 
las  overlooking  the  sea,  whence  we  regain  the  direct  route  in  ^/\  hr. 
On  both  routes  we  enjoy,  in  clear  weather,  charming > views  of  the  sea^ 
glancing  under  constantly  varying  lights  and  shaduwji,  and  of  the  Spanish 
coast  with  Gape  Trafalgar  (p.  Sw).  The  main  route  finally  descends  to 
the  (S'/a-S  hrs.  from  Tangier)  Lighthouse  on  the  W.  margin  of  Cape  SparteL 
the  P/'omontorium  Ampelusia  of  the  ancients  and  the  N.W.  extremity  or 
Africa.  The  lighthouse  was  constructed  and  is  maintained  by  the  great 
maritime  powers  \  its  light  is  visible  for  26  nautical  miles.  It  commands 
a  fine  view  of  the  ocean.  Bavarian  beer  and  light  refreshments  may  be 
obtained  from  the  keeper.  —  We  may  now  ride  along  the  shore  for 
3/4  hr.  more  to  the  Grotto  of  Hercules^  in  which  excellent  grindstones  and 
mill-stones  have  been  quarried  from  time  immemorial.  Or,  on  the  way 
back  to  Tangier,  we  may  diverge  from  the  Bubana  Valley  to  visit  the 
Olive  Orcve  between  the  Jew  Biver  and  the  Fez  Boad  (see  above). 

The  excursions  to  Tetuan  and  other  places  in  the  interior  of  Morocco 
require  a  military  escort,  and  enquiry  must  previously  be  made  at  the 
traveller's  consulate  or  embassy.  The  lack  of  roads,  bridges,  and  inns 
necessitates  costly  preparations  in  the  shape  of  tenta,  provisions,  guides, 
pack-horses,  and  so  on. 


Babdbkbr^b  Spain.  25 


386   Route  42.  OSUNA. 

VoTAOB  TO  Cadiz.  The  steamer  steeis  to  the  N.W.  on  leaving 
the  Bay  of  Tangier  and  soon  approaches  the  Spanish  coast,  from 
which  the  mountains  gradually  recede.  To  the  right,  at  the  N.W. 
end  of  the  shallow  Bay  of  Barbate^  rises  Cape  Trafalgar,  the  PrO" 
montorium  JvnonU  of  the  Romans  and  the  Tarafal^Qhdr  ('cape  of 
the  cave')  of  the  Moors.  It  is  surmounted  by  a  lofty  and  conspicuous 
lighthouse,  the  light  of  which  has  a  range  of  19  sea-miles.  Here, 
at  the  W.  entrance  of  the  straits ,  the  British  fleet  under  Nelson 
defeated  the  united  French  and  Spanish  fleets  under  ViUeneuve  and 
Oravina  on  Oct.  2l8t,  1806,  paying  for  its  victory  with  the  loss  of 
its  famous  admiral.  The  British  fleet  consisted  of  27  ships  of  the 
line,  4  frigates,  and  2  smaller  vessels,  the  Franco*Spanish  fleet  of 
33  ships  of  the  line,  5  frigates,  and  2  brigs. 

Farther  along  the  sandy  coast  are  the  small  town  of  CorUl,  the 
insignificant  Cape  Roche,  the  mouth  of  the  Canal  de  Saneti  Petri, 
and  the  l$la  de  Le6n,  with  San  Fernando  (p.  433).  At  last  the  lofty 
quays  and  white  hotlses  of  Cadiz  rise  from  the  sea,  overtopped  by 
the  New  Cathedral.  The  steamer  skirts  the  W.  side  of  the  penin- 
sula on  which  the  town  lies,  passes  to  the  W.  of  Fort  Si^asti&n 
(p.  440),  than  steers  to  the  N.E.,  passes  the  reefs  of  Los  Cochinos 
and  Las  Puercas  (p.  436),  and  enters  the  roomy  bay  of  CadU  (p.  434). 

42.  From  Bobadilla  to  Utrera  (Seville^  Cadiz) 
Yi&  La  Eoda  and  Marchena. 

84  M.  Bailwat  (one  passenger-train  daily)  in  5  lirs.  (fares  23  p.  55, 
17  p.  25,  10  p.  90  c);  to  BepUU,  ;103  M.,  in  BV*  hrs.  (fares  27  p.,  19  p.  85, 
12  p.  45  c.) ;  to  Cadiz,  160  M.,  in  9V*  hrs.  (fares  38  p.  30  c,  28  p.,  17  p.  85  c). 
The  section  between  Marchena  and  Utrera  is  also  traversed  by  the  trains 
of  the  direct  line  from  Cordova  to  Cadiz  (p.  819).  —  Railway-restaurants 
at  Bobadilla  and  Utrern. 

This  railway  has  litUe  scenic  interest,  but  is  of  importance  as  the 
shortest  link  between  S.E.  Andalusia  (Qranada,  Malaga)  and  Seville  and 
Cadiz.  There  Is  a  through  first-class  carriage  from  Bobadilla  to  Seville, 
but  other  passengers  have  to  change  at  La  Boda.  Those  for  Cadiz  change 
also  at  Utrera. 

From  Bobadilla  to  (15  M.)  La  ttoda,  see  p.  320.  —  The  railway 
runs  towards  the  W.  22V2  M.  Pedrera  (1510  ft.)  is  the  highest  point 
of  the  line.  —  301/2  M.  Aguadulce  has  its  name  from  a  spring  of 
'sweet  water',  most  of  the  water  in  this  region  being  brackish. 

From  Aguadulce  a  road  leads  to  the  K.E.  to  (9  M.)  Ettepa,  the  Aatapa 
of  the  Iberians,  which  was  captured  by  Scipio  in  B.  C.  207,  the  inhab- 
itants, man,  woman,  and  child,  preferring  death  in  the  flames  to  slavery. 

We  cross  the  Rio  Blanco^  an  affluent  of  the  Genii.'  —  3772  M. 
Osuna,  a  town  of  18,000  iuhab.,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  a  Mil 
rising  over  a  fertile,  corn- growing  plain.  It  was  the  Urao  of  the 
Romans  and  the  Oxuna  of  the  Moors,  and  since  1562  it  has  been 
the  seat  of  the  Dukes  of  Osuna.  The  Romans  also  called  it  Oemina 
Vrbanorum,  because  it  was  garrisoned  by  two  legions,  both  from 
the  city  of  Rome.   The  Golbgiata,  dating  from  1634,  possesses  a 


4] 


1^. ., 


%N/^v? 


fe:%#  k:-  ^-"^^ ■'/;:. •'•?>*tM'' ■:::.- ■•<!^.i 


SEVILLE.  43.  BouU.   387 

Une  Oruciflxion  by  Ribera.  In  the  sacristy  is  a  Christ  by  MoraUa^ 
and  in  the  sagrario  are  three  early-German  paintings,  mistakenly 
assigned  to  Altreeht  Durer.  The  interesting  crypt  contains  the 
tombs  of  the  Osana  family. 

The  wide  plain  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  Sierra  Morena,  on 
the  S.  by  the  Serrania  de  Ronda  (p.  369).  Near  (641/2  M.)  Los 
Ojudos  the  train  crosses  the  SaUtdOy  a  tributary  of  the  Corbones. 
A  little  farther  on  we  cross  a  small  salt  lake  and  the  Corbones  itself. 

57  M.  Karchena,  the  junction  of  the  direct  railway  from  Cor- 
dova to  Cadiz  (p.  319).  The  loftily-situated  old  town  (13,800  inhab.), 
still  partly  girdled  by  crumbling  walls,  has  a  Palace  of  the  Duke  of 
Arcos  (Ponce  de  Leon).  The  church  of  San  Juan  contains  a  cedar- 
wood  coro  and  a  good  Flemish  high-altar  (ca.  1500)t  • 

61 1/2  M.  Parados;  66  M.  Arafial.  The  line  runs  to  the  S.W., 
crossing  the  Quadaira  and  traversing  thickets  of  scrub-palm ettoes 
(p.  227).  —  From  (74  M.)  Empalme  de  Mor6n  the  Siena  Nevada  is 
visible  in  very  clear  weather. 

A  Branch  Rail w at  ('A  tr.  •,  fares  2  p.  75  c,  2  p„  1  p.  35  c.)  runs  from 
Empalme  to  (2  M  )  Coronil  and  (12  M.)  Mordn  de  la  Frontera  (Fonda  de 
la  Estacidn;  Fonda  Nueva)^  the  ancient  Arumi^  a  finely  situated  town 
(13,500  inhab.),  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Guadaira  and  at  the  foot  of  the 
Sierra  de  Mordn.  It  possesses  the  ruins  of  a  huge  Moorish  Cattle  and 
large  Chalk  and  Marble  Quarriet.  The  'Tortas  de  Mor6n\  a  kind  of  cake, 
enjoy  a  wide  reputation. 

We  traverse  a  plain ,  overgrown  with  cactus ,  aloes,  and  dwarf 
palms.  —  84  M.  XJtrera^  and  thence  to  Seville  and  Cadi%j  see  R.  45b. 

43.  Seville. 

Xailway  Stations.  1.  Estacidn  de  Cdrddba  (PI.  D,  5,6-,  restaurant),  in 
the  Barrio  de  los  Humeros,  to  the  W.  of  the  city  and  near  the  Guadal- 
quivir, for  the  trains  to  Cordova,  Alcazar,  and  Madrid  (B.  33),  to  Mdrida  via 
Tocina  (R.  49),  and  to  Huelva  (E.  44).  —  2.  Estacidn.  de  Cadit  (PI.  G,.  1; 
restaurant),  to  the  S.E.,  on  the  Prado  de  San  Sebastian,  for  the  line  to 
Cadiz  (B.  45b)  and  the  trains  to  AlcaU  de  Guadaira  and  Carmona  (p.  422).  — 
At  both  stations  the  trains  are  met  by  the  omnibuses  of  the  larger  hotels 
and  by  cabs  (one  horse  cab  for  1-2  pers.  1  p.,  each  article  of  luggage 
^U-i  p.  \  comp.  p.  38S).  No  driving  is  allowed  in  Seville  on  Kaundy  Thurs- 
aay  or  Good  Friday,  the  traveller  has  then  to  walk  and  engage  a  porter 
(moto  de  cordel). 

Steamers  ply  from  Seville  to  San  Liicar  de  Barrameda  (p.  426  •,  starting 
twice  weekly  from  the  Tower  of  Gold),  and  also  to  most  other  Spanish 
ports,  Marseilles,  England,  Belgium.  Hamburg,  etc.  "—  A  small  local  boat 
runs  daily  to  and  from  Coria  (p.  425),  starting  at  the  Mnelfe  Barranco 
del  Bio. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xx).  •Hotel  de  Madrid  (PI.  a;  D,  4),  Calle  de  Men- 
dez  Nunez,  at  the  corner  of  the  Plaza  del  Paciflco,  with  a  dependance 
(PI.  bj  D,  4),  a  large  court  with  palms,  a  fine  dining-hall  in  the  Mud^jar 
style,  and  baths ;  pens,  from  I2V2  p.  (in  spring  from  16  p.).  *HdT.  de  Pasis 
(PI.  c;  D,  4),  Plaza  delPacifico,  with  a  well-furnished  dependance  (PI.  d; 
D,  4),  on  theN.W.  side  of  the  square,  well  managed,  with  good  cuisine  and 
choice  of  table-wines ;  pens,  from  10  p.  These  two  are  hotels  of  the  first 
order.  —  Less  pretending :  •H6t.  de  Boma  (PI.  e ;  D,  4),  Plaza  del  Duque 
de  la  Victoria,  pens.  10  p.  -,  H6t.  Eoropa  (PI.  f ;  E,  3),  Plaza  San  Fernando, 
pens.,  from  10  p.  —  Anqlo-Ahskigan  Pension  {Frau  B/orlman;  PI.  i,  E  4), 

25* 


388   BouU43.  SEVILLE.  Caha, 

Placa  de  San  Fernando,  pens.  8-12  p.  —  Ommm  de  HuatpddM  (eomp. 
p.  XX).  Penimular^  Plaza  San  Fernando  20;  Fonda  Jtvit  Maria,  Galle 
M oratin ;  La  Prwindana,  Calle  de  Tetuan  12 ;  El  Citne  y  Ifew  York^  CaUe 
de  Mendea  Vanes  7.  — In  the  Semana  Santa  (p.  390)  and  during  the  Feria 
(p.  391)  charges  are  doubled,  and  accommodation  cannot  be  counted  on 
unless  ordered  in  advance.  The  hotels  are  then  all  over-crowded,  and 
those  who  dislike  noise  and  confusion  should  look  for  a  private  house. 

Oafis  (comp.  p.  xxii).  *Cafi  America,  *C.  Emperadore*.*C,  Centred^ 
C.  CoUny  all  in  the  Calle  de  las  Sierpes;  C.  de  BordaOo,  Plaza  de  San 
Fernando  20;  La  Ptrla,  Calle  de  Granada  6.  —  Confeetionera  (^Cori/!terta«>. 
Antonio  Hernandez^  Galle  de  las  Sierpes  1;  Martinet  Colorttdo^  Galle  de  las 
Palmas  12     The  sugared  fruits  of  Seville  are  excellent. 

Bestaurants  feomp.  p.  xzi\  "Butaurant  jSM«o,  Galle  de  las  Sierpes 
(also pa^leria  or  pastry-cook);  Bl  Fasaje  de  Orientfj^  Calle  de  las  Sierpes  76, 
not  expensive ;  Restaurant  Erite^a,  see  p.  418.  —  Beer.  Certfeceria  Jnglesa, 
Calle  de  Campana  6  (PI.  D,  4). 

Wine  Booms  (Taverwu),  Paeaje  de  la  Magdalena,  Calle  de  Mendez 
Nunez,  opposite  the  Hot.  Madrid;  Pasaje  cM  Correo^  see  above;  La*  De- 
licias.  La  Bomba,  both  near  the  Calle  de  las  Sierpes.  Genuine  MamamUa 
Wine,  so  named  from  the  MantanWa  Real,  a  kind  of  rue  (Artemisia  ffrana- 
tentis  Boiss.)^  may  be  had  at  all  these  *tavemas\  It  is  drunk  out  of  tall 
and  narrow  glasses  (cafiat,  ecSiUcu)  to  an  accompaniment  of  oysters  (ostri- 
oneSy  ostras),  fish,  crabs  (langostinos),  or  snails  (caracoles)  in  sauce. 

Cabs  (stands  in  the  Plazas  de  San  Francisco,  del  Pacfflco,  del  Museo, 
del  Duque  de  la  Victoria,  etc.).  "With  one  horse,  1-2  pers.  per  drive  1  p., 
per  hr.  2  p.,  at  night  2  and  3  p. ;  3  4  pers.  IVs,  2Vs,  'iVt,  &nd  4  p.  With 
two  horses,  1-4  pers.,  2,  3,  4,  and  5  p.  —  The  night-tares  are  due  from 
midnight  to  sunrise.  Small  luggage  25  c.,  each  trunk  60  c,  if  over  65  lbs. 
1  p.  No  charge  for  lugpage  is  made  on  the  two-horse  cabs,  —  All  fares 
are  raised  or  even  doubled  during  the  Semana  Santa  and  Feria,  and 
bargaining  is  advisable.    The  luggage-tariflf,  however,  remains  unchanged. 

TraAwaya.  From  the  Plaza  de  la  Constituci6n  (PI  E,  3)  to  the  Barrio 
de  la  Macarena  (PI.  A,  2);  to  the  Puerta  del  Osario  (PI.  D,l);  to  Triana 
(PI.  F  6);  and  to  the  Puerta  del  Osario  and  Calzada  de  la  Cruz  del  Campo 
(p.  419).  —  Cars  run  from  8  a.m.  till  10  or  11  p.m.,  fare  10  c;  to  the  Cal- 
zada 20  c. 

Feat  and  Telegraph  Offtce  (Correo  y  TOegrafos;  PL  D,  4),  Calle  de 
San  Acasio  1,  at  the  corner  of  the  Calle  de  las  Sierpes.  Poste  Bestante 
letters  are  distributed  Vs  h'>  after  the  arrival  of  the  trains. 

Fhysieians.  Dr.  J.  8.  Langdon^  Calle  Borcequineria  56 ;  Dr.  Kaminski, 
Galle  Amor  de  Dios  1  (speaks  English  and  French) ;  Dr.  Eduardo  Fedr/ont, Calle 
Venera  18  (also  surgeon).  —  Chemist.    Farmdcia  del  Ohbo,  CaUe  de  Tetuan. 

Baths  (BaSSos).  H6UI  de  Madrid,  .see  p  387;  Qmnta  de  la  Florida,  Calle 
de  la  Industria  (Barrio  de  San  Bernardo) ;  Qontdlez  Renddn,  Calle  de  Jesus  12 ; 
Outiirrez  (iu'ntana,  Calle  de  las  Madeja«. 

Banks.  Bcuilio  del  Camino  y  Hefmanos,  Galle  Francos  48 ;  Hijos  de  P.  L. 
Buidobro,  CaUe  de  Tarifa  6;  MacAndrews  d;  Co.,  Calle  Guzman  el  Hueno  2. 

Shops.  Fans  (Ahanicos)  and  Castanets  (Casta&vehs)  of  olive-wood: 
Bazar  Sevilkmo.  Calle  de  las  Sierpes  48;  Oarrido,  Ortiz,  ^  Co.,  Calle  de 
Tetuan  43;  Caldwell,  Piazza  del  Pa^ifico  4.  —  Mantillas:  Basilio  del  Ca- 
mino y  Hermanos,  J.  Ortiz  A  Co.,  Calle  Francos  48  and  23.  —  Gditabs: 
Soto  y  Solares,  Calle  de  Cerrajeria7.  —  Gloves:  Hipdlito  Oely,  CaUe  de  las 
Sierpes  34.  —  Photogbaphs  :  JvUo  Beauehy,  Calle  de  Bioja  24;  Karl  Schlatter, 
Galle  de  G^nova  4  (also  lithographs).  —  Flo  webs:  J.  P.  Martini  Bijos, 
Calle  de  las  Sierpes  49. 

Booksellers.  Juan  AfUonio  Fi,  Tomds  Sanz,  Calle  de  las  Sierpes  91 
and  92;  Caldieell,  Piazza  del  Paciaco  4. 

Clubs.    Circulo  de  Labradores,  CaJle  de  la.s  Sierpes  99 ;  (^leniro  Mercantil, 

same  street,  46;  Casino  MiUtar,  same  street,  62;  Ateneo  y  Sociedad  de  Bxeur- 

s'onet,   same  street,  42,  with  a  small  archaeological   collection;    Castno 

Sevillano,  Plaza  del  Duque  de  la  Victoria  9.    Large  balls  are  given  by  the 

bs  in  winter.    Visitors  may  be  introduced  by  members. 


Places  of  Amusement.       SEVILLE.  43.  RouU.   389 

Ooninls.  British,  E.  F.  Johnglon,  Calle  de  Ouzman  el  Btieno  2;  TJ.  S.  A., 
Samuel  B.  Caldwell^  Plaza  del  Paciflco  4.  —  Lloyd's  Agent,  Lecuk^  San 
Fernando  6. 

Sngliah  Ohuroh  Service  on  Sun.  forenoon  in  the  Plaza  del  Mnseo, 
entr.  by  the  Calle  de  San  Vicente. 


Promenades.  The  most  fashionable  promenade  and  corso  of  the  city 
is  the  Paaeo  de  las  Delicias  (PI.  H,  3;  p.  418),  much  frequented  on  the  after- 
noons of  Sun.  and  holidays  by  the  beflowered  beanties  of  Seville.  The 
adjoining  Parque  Maria  Luita  (PI.  H,  2^  p.  418)  and  the  Faseo  de  Cristina 
(PI.  G,  3,  4 ;  p.  418)  are  also  much  frequented  in  the  afternoon.  The  live- 
liest time  in  summer  is  6-8  p.m. 

Theatres  (comp.  p.  xxvi).  *Teatro  de  San  Fernando  (PI.  D,  E,  4),  Calle  de 
Tetnan,  built  in  1847,  for  opera  and  ballets;  places  and  prices  similar  to 
those  of  the  Teatro  Real  in  Madrid  (p.  57).  —  Teatro  de  Cervantes  (PI.  C,  4), 
Calle  Amor  de  Dios,  in  the  form  of  a  circus,  f(»r  dramas  and  equestrian 
performances.  —  The  Teatro  del  Duqite  (PI.  C,  D,  4),  Plaza  del  Duque  de 
Ja  Victoria,  and  the  Teatro  de  Eelava  (PI.  G,  3),  a  summer-theatre  (with 
cafe)  in  the  Paseo  de  la  Puerta  de  Jerez,  are  both  used  for  earzuelas 
(p.  57)  and  farces  ^  the  performances  at  the  former  are  generally  on  the 
'hour''  system  (see  p.  57). 

Places  of  Amusement,  of  a  characteristic  Andalusian  description.  The 
*Sal6n  Recreative^  Calle  Almirantazgo  7  (PI.  F,  3,  4),  is  carried  on  expressly 
for  strangers  (adm.  5  p. ;  see  notice  in  hotels).  OjedcCe  Sal6n  Cantante^ 
Calle  de  las  Sierpes  11,  an  older  establishment,  furnishes  performances 
for  strangers  in  a  special  room  (adm.  5  p.),  but  also  has  a  genuine  'salon 
cantante'  in  a  glass-covered  court,  frequented  by  the  lower  classes  (adm. 
to  the  floor  free,  but  the  visitor  is  expected  to  order  coffee,  manzanilla 
wine,  or  the  like;  seat  in  the  gallery  ]/«?•)•  All  the  performers  take 
their  position  upon  the  stage  at  the  end  of  the  court.  Dances  and  songs  are 
given  sdternately.  The  Dangbs,  invariably  illustrating  some  theme  of  love, 
are  generally  performed  by  one  person  to  the  music  of  a  guitar,  while 
the  seated  chorus  marks  the  time  by  clapping  of  hands  and  encourages  the 
dancer  by  cries  of  arre,  corre^  anda!  The  Songs  are  always  solos,  and  the 
accompanyist  is  often  a  real  virtuoso  on  the  guitar,  still  the  popular  in- 
Ktrnmeut  of  Seville.  The  songs  and  dances  are  an  interesting  survival  of 
Old  Seville,  but  the  visitor  must  not  pitch  his  hopes  too  high.  —  The 
performances  in  the  suburb  of  Triana  (p.  420)  are  of  immemorial  antiquity, 
but  ladies  are  not  advised  to  frequeut  them.  This  is  the  home  of  the 
genuine  gipsies,  known  here  as  Flamencos^  and  they  have  preserved  many 
of  their  characteristic,  mainly  Orient al  dances  and  songs.  The  Cantes 
Flamencos  usually  consist  of  three  or  lour  lines  {coplas,  couplets)  and  are 
known  under  various  names,  snch'  as  soleds^  tereerilku^  tonds^  liviancu, 
seguidiUaSy  polos ^  eanas^  carceleras^  martinetes^  deblas^  triadas^  and  coplas 
de  alio.  They  are  composed  in  the  gipsy-Spanish  dialect  of  Andalusia,  and 
show  many  traces  of  the  wanderings  of  the  gipsy  race  from  their  original 
.seat  in  the  Hiodu-Eush  through  Asia  Minor  and  Greece  to  all  parts  of 
Europe.  A  few  words  will  suffice :  gachd^  man  \  gacM^  woman ;  dt6^,  deha^ 
God;  moto,  guita^  pam^,  money;  ducas^  great  sorrow;  ehwigo^  evil;  chald, 
mad ;  currelai-y  to  work ;  una  sembrada^  the  same  as  una  salada  (see  p.  295) ; 
salero,  a  cry  of  encouragement  tu  be  joyous  and  lively  (comp.  p.  295). 
Another  point  of  interest  is  the  confusion  in  pronunciation  of  b  and  v, 
/  and  r,  y  and  W,  z  and  c  Cceeear').  Sevilla  is  thus  usually  pronounced 
Zebiya.  —  A  large  number  of  the  Cantes  Flamencos  are  given  in  the  Roman- 
ceros  of  Femdn.  Caballero  (p.  396),  FmiUo  La/uente  Alcantara^  and  Rodrigo 
Marin,  and  in  the  collection  of  JDemo/lo  (Sevilla,  1881;  1  p.). 

Ball  Ring  iPlaza  de  Toros;  PI.  F,  4,5),  an  imposing  building  erected 
in  1870,  with  a  diameter  of  220  ft.  and  room  for  14,000  spectators.  Cel- 
ebrated Corridas  (p.  xxvii)  take  place  on  Easter  Sunday  (Djomingo  de  Re- 
surrecquin)  and  during  the  Feria  (p.  391). 

Horse  Bacet  take  place  in  April  and  "Soy.  in  the  BipMromo  (p.  418). 


990  Route  48,  SEVILLE.  Chureh  Festivals. 

in  the  Lkmo*  de  Tdbiada^  to  which  stMmen  then  ply  from  the  €K)Iden 
Tower  (p.  418). 

Bicyele  Olnb  (  Velos  Club)  in  the  Plata,  at  the  end  of  the  Paseo  de  laa 
IHliciat  (p.  418).  ■ 

The  Church  TettiTala  of  Seville  are  among  the  most  important  in  Spain. 

The  celebrations  of  the  Semana  Santa  (Holy  Week)  still  attract  crowds 
of  strangers,  though  they  have  lost  much  of  their  former  brilliancy.  A 
characteristic  feature  is  seen  in  the  magnificent  *Pbocks8IOK8  (Patot)  of 
THB  BxLioiODS  BsoTHXSHOODt  (Co/racUot)^  which  bear  profusely  adorned 
statnea  of  saints  (ImAgina)  through  the  streets  in  litters  illuminated  with 
a  multitude  of  candles.  In  front  march  the  gendarmes  and  so-called 
'Bomans^  followed  by  the  masked  members  of  the  brotherhoods,  white- 
robed  girls,  members  of  the  town-council,  and  musicians.*  The  proces- 
sions follow  the  narrow  CaUe  de  leu  Sierpes  (p.  409)  to  the  Plaza  de  la 
Conttitudfyi  (p.  408),  where  the  8^or  Alcalde  Presidenley  or  Mayor  of  the  city, 
is  greeted  as  he  stands  on  a  platform  in  front  of  the  city-hall.  They  then 
proceed  through  the  Calle  de  04nova  to  the  Cathedralj  the  dusky  recesses 
of  which  offer  a  strange  appearance  when  they  are  lit  up  by  the  flicker- 
ing candle-light  of  the  passing  procession.  (At  present,  however,  they 
pass  round  the  cathedral  instead  of  through  it.)  Beyond  tne  cathedral  the 
processions  pass  the  Qiralda  (p.  400)  and  traverse  the  Cailee  de  Placentines^ 
Francos^  and  Culebrae^  the  Plaza  San  Salvador^  and  the  Calks  de  la  Cuna 
and  <fe  Cerrtv'eria.  The  first  procession  takes  place  on  Pahn  Sunday  (Do- 
mingo de  Ramae),  and  others  on  Wednesday^  Maundy  Thursday,  and  Oood 
Friday^  all  late  in  the  afternoon  (por  la  tarde).  There  is  also  an  early 
morning  (de  madrugada)  procession  on  Oood  Friday.  —  The  best  point  of 
view  is  the  grand  stand  erected  in  front  of  the  city-hall  (seat  for  all  four 
days  10  p.).  Single  seats  at  different  parts  of  the  route  may  be  obtained 
for  1  p.  per  day  or  3^/«  p.  for  the  series.  Those  who  can  bear  a  little 
fatigue  may  easily  see  everything  from  the  curb-stone. 

The  following  celebrations  within  the  cathedral  lose  much  of  their 
effect  at  present  through  the  scaffolding  necessitated  by  the  fall  of  the 
dome  (p.  403).  —  Palm  Sunday.  Church  Procession  in  the  morning;  con- 
secration of  palms  and  olive-branches.  —  Tuesday  and  Wednesdat.  Vocal 
Passion  music.  On  Wed.,  at  10  a.m.,  the  Veil  of  the  Tetnple  (*Velo  Blanco") 
is  rent  in  twain,  with  an  accompaniment  of  thunder.  At  9  p.m  the  1ft- 
zerere  of  Eslava  (p.  402)  is  performed  in  the  capilla  mayor,  followed  by  a 
procession  bearing  the  Sacrament  to  the  Chapel  of  the  Sagrario  (p.  406). 

—  On  Maundt  Thuksdat,  at  6.80  a.m.,  takes  place  the  Consecrcdion  of  the 
(HI  (Santos  Olios)^  in  presence  of  the  Cathedral  Chaipter,  the  Town  Council, 
the  University,  and  other  dignitaries.  Procession  with  the  Sacrament  to 
the  Monumento  (p.  404).  The  Washing  of  Feet  takes  place  at  8  p.m.  iii  the 
transept,  opposite  the  choir.  The  Completas  and  TinM>las  are  then  sung 
till  10  p.m.,  after  which  a  second  performance  is  given  of  Eslava^s  Miserere. 

—  OooD  Fbidat.  Passion  Sermon  at  6am.)  Horas  and  OJlcios  at  7  a.m.; 
Tiniebhss  in  the  afternoon  in  presence  of  the  Town  Council.  —  Satukdat 
(Sdbado  Santo).  At  7  a.m.  consecration  of  the  Cirio  Pascual,  a  candle  26  ft. 
in  length  and  770-880  lbs.  in  weight.  The  Letanias  May  ores  and  the  Mau 
are  then  celebrated,  and  at  10  a.m.  the  Revelation  of  the  High  Altar  takes 
place  through  the  rending  of  the  Velo  Negro,  accompanied  by  the  Gloria 
in  ExceltiSff  peals  of  thunder,  and  the  ringing  of  all  the  bells  (repique  de 
campanas).    To  the  W.  of  the  coro  burns  the  celebrated  TeneWario, 

On  the  three  Easteb  Days  (Pascua  de  Resurrecddn)^  in  front  of  the 
Puerta  de  la  Came,  at  the  Matadero  (p.  419),  takes  place  the  Febia  del 
Bastro,  a  Lemb  Fair^  where  lambs  (cordeH)  are  bought  for  the  children, 
who  lead  them  about  the  streets. 

The  second  church-festival  of  Seville  in  point  of  importanee  is  La 
Fiesta  del  Sahtisiho  Cobpus  (Corpus  Christi),  which  is  also  celebrated  in 
the  cathedral.  A  great  Procession  takes  place  at  10  a.m.,  and  there  fa  a 
second  in  the  afternoon,  to  lay  *Sa  Mi^estad'  on  the  high-altar.  The 
curious  *Danee  of  the  Sixteen  Boys  (Seises)  in  front  of  the  high-altar,    an 


Fop,  CeUlfations.  SEVILLE.  4S.  Route,   391 

imitation  of  the  dance  of  the  Israelites  hefore  the  Aric,  ftlso  takes  place 
on  this  day  and  on  the  seven  following  days.  Their  fantastic  dress 
is  of  the  period  of  Philip  III.  The  fieisea  also  dance  on  the  three  days 
of  Carnival  and  on  the  Fiuta  de  la  Canctpdwn  (Oct.  8th)  and  seven  follow* 
ing  days. 

The  FiBSTA  DE  ToDoa  los  Santos  {All  Sainit;  Nov.  Ist)  is  marked  by 
a  Proeeition  (10  a.m.)  to  the  Triun/o  (p.  396)  and  a  Te  Dewn.  On  the  eve 
of  All  Saints  and  on  All  Souls  (Nov.  2nd;  p.  59)  crowds  of  visitors 
repair  to  the  Cemeteries  of  San  Fernando  (p.  4lo)  and  San  Joid  (Triana ; 
p.  420),  near  which  a  kind  of  Feria  is  held. 

On  Nov.  23rd  a  special  service  is  held  in  the  Capilla  Real  (p.  407). 

The  Gklebkation  of  Ghkistuas  (La  Natividad)  is  also  interesting.  At 
this  season  a  Fair  is  held  between  the  Triana  Bridge  and  the  Bull  Bing. 


Popular  OelebratioiM.  The  Mc^oi  and  Majat  of  Seville  are  seen  in 
all  their  glory  in  the  Veladas  de  San  Juan  and  de  San  Pedro  (June  24th 
and  29th),  celebrated  in  the  Alameda  de  Hercnles  (p.  418),  and  even  more 
in  the  various  Bomtriat^  a  kind  of  kermess,  in  the  vicinity  of  Seville.  The 
chief  Bomerias  are  tile  following : 

Whit-Sdndat:  Romeria  del  Rodo  in  AknofUe.  The  inhabitants  of  Triana 
appear  with  a  chariot  bearing  the  standard  of  *Sin'Pecado^  and  a  gaily- 
decorated  tabernacle. 

Sept.  8th:  La  Contoladdnde  lTtrera(p.i27).  Special  trains  run  toUtrera. 

Beginxino  of  Octobeb  :  Feria  de  ^tntiponee  (p.  421). 

On  the  Sundays  op  Octobbb  the  Romeria  de  Torrijos  is  held  at  the 
little  town  of  SaUerae  (p.  423).  Most  tourists  content  themselves  with  seeing 
the  retnrn  of  the  ^Bomeros"  in  Triana. 

One  of  the  chief  festivals  is  the  •Febia,  founded  in  1847  and  held 
from  April  18th  to  April  20th  on  the  Prado  de  San  Sebaetidn  (PI.  O,  1,  2  ^ 
p.  419),  which  still  furnishes  a  charming  picture  of  popular  life,  though 
it  has  lost  some  of  its  most  attractive  features.  The  feria  is  not  so  much 
an  annual  fair  as  an  outing  or  festival  which  the  people,  high  and  low, 
give  to  themselves.  It  should  be  seen  early  in  the  morning  and  the  even- 
ing. Every  rich  family  has  its  own  tent,  where  its  members  may  be  said 
for  the  time  being  to  live  the  life  of  their  patio  (p.  394)  in  public. 


Siatrihation  of  Time.  Host  of  the  Chusghbb  are  closed  except  in  the 
morning,  but  they  are  open  all  day  in  Easter  Week.  The  Cathedral  is 
always  open  except  from  noon  till  8.30  p.m.  Admission  to  the  parts  at 
present  boarded  otf  requires  the  permission  of  the  architect,  Joaquin  Fer- 
nandez (Galle  de  la  Laguna  14  PI.  E,  4).  There  are  generally  no  stated 
hours  of  admission  to  Pbivatb  Houses,  Chabitable  Institutions,  and  the 
like;  and  sometimes  even  the  'silver  key'  fails  to  work.  Admittance  is 
always  more  difficult  on  a  festival,  especially  during  the  Semana  Santa, 
which  plays  havoc  with  all  those  of  the  visitor  s  plans  that  are  not  con- 
nected with  the  public  celebrations.  On  other  occasions  the  following 
::rrangements  are  generally  observed. 

*Alcdzar  (p.  897),  daily,  11-4.  Tickets  of  admission  and  free  passes 
for  artists  are  issued  at  the  office  on  the  S.  side  of  the  Patio  de  las  Ban- 
dcras  (middle  door).    Fee  of  1  p.  to  the  attendant  who  acts  as  guide. 

Archivo  General  de  Indicu^  daily,  11-4  (in  summer,  8-11).  Students 
require  a  permit  from  the  Ministerio  de  Ultramar  in  Madrid. 

Ayuntamiento  (p.  409),  daily,  on  application ;  fee  1  p. 

*Casa  de  Pilaios  (p.  410),  daily,  on  application ;  fee  ^/t-i  p. 

Fdbriea  de  Tabacos  (p.  419),  daily,  morning  and  afternoon  (no  adm. 
between  12  and  2)^  guide  Ip.,  forewoman  of  each  room  20-80  c. 


*Giralda  (p.  400),  daily  (60  c):  no  one  allowed  to  ascend  alone. 

*  Hospital  de  la  Caridad  (p.  417),  daily-,  fee  V2-I  p. 

*Museo  Provincial  (p.  414),  daily,  10-3  (Archaeological  Museum  on  Sni- 


till  1p.m.  only);  fee  V«-lpc 

PcOacio  de  Santekno  (p.  418),  only  in  the  absence  of  the  Infanta, 


392   Route  43.  SEVILLE.  Situation. 

gardens  may  be  inspected  at  any  time  by  those  provided  with  admission 
ticket  from  the  ^Jefe  de  Palacio". 

FtrmanaU  BxhtbiHom  0/  Picturtt  of  the  ^Sociedad  Econ<5mica  de  Amigos 
del  Pai8\  Calle  de  Bioja  25.  daily,  10-4;  1  p. 

Univertity  Library  (p.  ill),  on  week-days,  10-3. 

Chief  Attractions  (3  days).  l«t  Day.  Ascent  of  the  QiriOda  (p.  400) ; 
Cathedral  (p.  402);  Plaza  de  la  Caastitucidn  (p.  408);  Plaza  de  San  Fernando 
(p.  409);  Calle  de  lae  Sierpee  (p.  409).  —  2nd  Day.  Alcazar  (p.  3U7);  Ca$a 
de  Pilalos  (p.  410) ;  Caridad  (p.  417).  —  3rd  Day.  In  the  morning,  Mu*«um 
(p.  414).  In  the  afte>-noon,  Pateo  de  Crutina  (p.  418),  Paseo  de  la*  Delicicu 
(p.  418),  aid  Par^tie  Maria  Luua  (p.  418). 


ScviUe  or  Sevilla  (33  ft.  above  the  sea),  a  city  of  124,300  iuhab., 
the  capital  of  Andalusia  and  of  the  piovlnce  of  Seville,  the  seat  of 
a  Captain- General,  an  Archbishop,  and  a  university,  lies  in  a  wide 
plain  on  the  banks  of  the  tawny  Qaadalquioir^  one  of  the  two  chief 
rivers  of  S.  Spain.  The  'Great  River'  (p.  30"2)  des^^ribes  a  curve 
round  the  W.  side  of  the  city  and  parts  it  from  the  S.W.  suburb  of 
Tfvina.  About  3  M.  to  the  W.  stretches  a  range  of  low  hills,  which 
now  bear  a  numbdr  of  villages,  while  at  their  bise  lie  the  ancient 
Roman  towns  of  Italica  (p.  421)  and  Coria  (p.  425).  In  the  remote 
distance,  to  the  N.W.,  appear  the  outliers  of  the  Sierra  Morena, 

As  its  site  is  perfectly  flat  and  almost  destitute  of  natural  pictur- 
esqueness,  Seville  would  hardly  justify  the  old  saying  ^Qaitn  no  ha 
vi^to  Seviila  no  ha  vitto  maravUlc^ ,  were  it  not  that  it  combines 
the  peculiarities  of  a  harbour-town  with  the  exuberant  fertility  of 
a  southern  landscape,  and  joins  a  present,  full  of  rich,  sprightly,  and 
harmonious  Ufe,  to  an  abundance  of  artistic  monuments  indicative  of 
a  brilliant  past.  In  Dante's  inferno'  (xxvi,  110)  Odysseus  mentions 
Seviila  and  Ceuta  alone  as  witnessed  by  him  in  passing  the  straits 
of  Hercules:  ''Dalla  man  deslra  mi  lasciai  SihiUaj  Dal''  altra  gia 
m'avea  lasciata  8etta\  Mariani,  the  historian  (16th  cent.),  describes 
Seville  as  a  ^ciudad  vaga  y  llena  de  prvnores  y  grand^zas^  noble  y 
rica,  fuerte  por  las  murallas,  por  las  armas  y  genie  que  tient. 

Seville  is  among  the  few  towns  of  Spain  that  thrive  without 
artiflcial  stimulation.  '•La  Tierra  de  Maria  Santi8ima\  as  the  Sevillians 
proudly  call  the  surrounding  district,  produces  admirable  olives, 
wine,  oranges,  cork,  and  grain.  Roses  blossom  throughout  the  entire 
winter,  and  the  hyacinth  and  crocus  appear  as  early  as  January. 

Although  Seville  lies  60  M.  from  the  bar  at  San  Lticar  (p.  426), 
the  fall  of  the  Guailalquivir  is  so  slight,  that  the  flood-tide  (la  marea; 
here  generally  known  as-  Uu  aguas  vivas)  brings  the  salt-water  a 
long  way  up  the  river  and  is  perceptible  in  its  effects  at  the  plateau 
of  Alcald  dtl  Rioj  10-12  M.  above  Seville,  while  the  ebb  (las  aguas 
muerlas)  afreets  the  level  of  the  river  at  La  Algaha^  6  M.  farther  up. 
The  highest  tide  rises  nearly  6  ft.  above  the  mean  level,  while  the 
ebb  sinks  fully  3  ft.  below  it.  The  navigation  of  the  winding  river 
has  of  late  been  much  improved  by  dredging  and  by  the  cutting  of 
channels  through  the  larger  islands.  Sea-going  vessels  of  moderate 

^  can  thus  now  reach  Seville  itself,  and  their  loads  can  he  directly 


Life.  SEVILLE.  43.  Route,    393 

transfeired  to  the  railway-waggons  on  the  qnay  (muelU),  The  town 
combines  the  advantages  of  a  seaport  with  those  of  an  inland  city, 
situated  on  the  great  commercial  highway  between  Cadiz  and  the  N., 
the  Via  Augusta  of  the  ancients  (p.  437). 

The  city,  so  fortunate  in  all  other  respects,  is  exposed  almost 
every  winter  to  disastrous  inundations,  which  are  at  their  worst 
when  the.  water  of  the  Acenidan  (p.  242)  are  brought  by  a  strong 
S.W.  wind  into  opposition  to  the  tidal  movement  The  ordinary 
avenida),  6-15  ft.  high,  do  not  surmount  the  river-banks,  but  those 
above  this  height  (some  as  high  as  25  ft)  overpower  embankments 
and  sluices,  pour  through  the  city  in  the  form  of  'riadas\  and  often 
undermine  and  destroy  a  number  of  houses.  This  danger  is  in- 
creased by  the  fact  that  part  of  Seville  occupies  the  old  bed  of  the 
Guadalquivir,  which  ran  from  Barqueta  (PI.  A,  4)  vift  the  A  lam  tf  da 
de  Hercules  (PL  B,  3)  and  the  Calle  de  las  Sierpes  (PL  D,  E,  3,  4) 
to  the  Palace  of  Santelmo  (PL  C,  3),  at  the  harbour.  The  greatest 
avenidas  on  record  are  those  of  1595  and  1626.  During  the  latter 
the  water  reached  the  third  story  in  the  lower-lying  streets,  and 
about  3000  houses  fell  in.  Among  the  most  destructive  avenidas  in 
resent  times  were  those  of  Dec.  8th,  1876  (which  broke  through  the 
embankment  of  the  Cordova  railway  it  Maearena),  1881,  and  1892. 

In  spite  of  the  labyrinth  of  narrow  streets  that  it  inherits  from 
the  Moors,  Seville  is  one  of  the  gayest  and  brightest  cities  on  the 
globe.  Every  open  space  is  planted  with  orange-trees,  palms,  a'^.a- 
cias,  and  other  trees.  Everything  in  Seville  is  white,  if  not  to  the 
same  degree  as  at  Jerez  or  Cadiz,  and  the  broeha  del  hlanquedor  (the 
brush  of  the  whitewasher)  is  constantly  at  work,  now  on  the  walU 
of  the  houses,  now  on  the  stone-slabs  bordering  the  gutters. 

The  Public  Lifb  of  Seville  is  concentrated  in  the  narrow  Calle 
de  las  Sierpes  (p.  409),  the  Plaza  de  la  Con««{ucidn  (p.  408),  and  the 
PtoTc  de  San  Fernando  (p.  409). 

The  PjEtiVATE  LiFB  is  focussed,  according  to  the  Moorish  custom, 
in  the  inner  courts  of  the  houses,  of  which  no  other  town  in  Spain 
can  show  such  brilliant  and  characteristic  examples.  The  houses  of 
Seville  have  seldom  more  than  two  stories,  and  their  street  fronts  are 
always  simple  and  unpretending.  We  first  enter  the  Za^uan,  a  small 
vestibule,  which  is  separated  from  the  Patio  by  a  Cancel,  or  grating. 
The  court  is  uncovered  and  is  flanked  on  the  right  and  left  by  an 
arcade,  while  in  one  corner  is  a  wide  staircase  ascending  to  the 
Upper  Floor,  with  its  glass-covered  galleries  overlooking  the  court. 
This  floor  forms  the  winter-dwelling  of  the  family,  while  in  sum- 
mer they  live  in  the  patio  and  in  the  rooms  opening  off  it  The 
latter  have  no  windows,  but  obtain  all  the  light  and  air  that  is 
necessary  through  the  doors  communicating  with  the  court.  The  court 
is  always  paved  with  marble,  and  there  is  generally  a  fountain 
playing  in  the  centre.  A  movable  awning  (toldo)  protects  it  from 
the  rays  of  the  sun.  The  patio  practically  forms  the  summer-parlour 


394   B(mte43.  SEVILLE.  History. 

or  the  house,  and  the  well-to-do  furnish  it  with  rugS)  sofas,  pianos, 
and  mirrors  and  adorn  it  with  flowers,  foliage  plants,  and  bright- 
plumaged  birds.  Passers-by  can  look  freely  through  the  grating  into 
the  court,  which  at  night  is  generally  illuminated  by  coloured  lamps ; 
and  the  stranger  will  find  this  glimpse  of  a  Spanish  domestic  interior 
go  far  to  justify  the  old  German  saying,  *  Wen  Oott  Ueb  hatj  dem 
giebt  er  ein  Haus  in  Sevilla  ('He  whom  God  loves  has  a  house  In 
Seville').  In  the  largest  houses  there  are  often  several  patios ,  but 
all  arranged  in  the  same  axis,  so  that  the  entire  series  is  overlooked 
from  the  principal  entrance.  In  the  extreme  rear  there  is  generally 
a  small  orange-garden. 

The  CuBiATB  of  Seville  (comp.  p.  xxxi)  is  one  of  the  most  delight- 
ful on  the  continent  of  Europe.  The  summer  is  certainly  unbearably 
warm  (sometimes  touching  115°  Fahr.) ,  but  winter  has  seldom 
a  sunless  day,  and  frost  and  snow  are  almost  unknown.  The  most 
charming  season,  corresponding  to  our  May,  is  the  early  spring  from 
the  middle  of  March  to  the  end  of  April.  The  sky  of  Andalusia, 
which  is  'fire  in  the  summer',  is  then  at  its  balmiest,  and  no  other 
town  of  Spain  is  so  delightful  for  a  stay  of  some  time. 

The  HisTOBY  of  Seville  is  somewhat  scanty  in  comparison  with 
the  age,  the  size,  and  the  wealth  of  the  town.  It  is  probable  that  the 
Phoenicians  knew  it  under  the  name  of  Sephela  ot  Spela  (a  ^plain'), 
which  the  Greeks  afterwards  changed  into  Hispola  and  the  Romans 
into  Hispalis,  Cassw:  captured  the  town  in  B.C.  45  and  fostered  it  in 
opposition  to  Pompey's  town  of  Cordova,  naming  it  Julia  Bomula 
and  making  it  one  of  the  Oonventus  Juridici  (p.  231).  At  a  later  period 
it  became  the  capital  of  the  SUingian  Vandcds  (411)  and  of  the 
Visigoths  (441).  King  Leovigild  transferred  his  residence  in  567  to 
the  more  central  Toledo,  while  his  son  JSermenegild  or  Ermengild 
remained  at  Seville  as  viceroy.  The  latter,  supported  by  the  brothers 
Leander  and  Isidore,  abandoned  the  Arian  form  of  Christianity, 
which  the  Goths  had  hitherto  professed ,  and  rebelled  against  his 
father.  Leovigild,  however,  suppressed  the  revolt  in  684;  and  a 
renewed  rising  in  586  led  to  the  execution  of  Hermenegild.  Later, 
when  the  Athanasian  faith  obtained  the  upper  hand  in  Spain, 
Hermenegild  and  his  two  supporters,  the  'Apostles  of  the  Goths' 
and  the  'Religious  Fathers  of  Spain*,  who  presided  at  the  Concilia 
Hispalensia  in  590  and  619,  were  canonized. 

In  712,  after  a  siege  that  lasted  a  month,  Seville  (Arab.  Ishbiliya) 
was  captured  by  the  Moors  under  Musd^  and  assigned,  after  the 
expulsion  of  the  Christians,  to  the  Arabs  of  Yemen.  Miisa's  son 
^Abd  eWA%tz,  the  first  Arab  viceroy  of  Spain ,  married  EgiUma^ 
widow  of  Roderick,  the  last  King  of  the  Goths.  His  successor  AyiJib 
transferred  his  residence  to  Cordova  in  715.  Seville  then  long 
remained  a  mere  provincial  town,  but  in  1021,  on  the  fall  of  the  Om- 
mayads  (p.  308),  it  declared  itself  an  independent  republic,  under 


History.  SEVILLE.  43,  Route,   395 

the  leadership  of  Abu'l  KAtim  Mohammed  (d.  1042),  an  Arab  of  the 
family  of  the  Beni  ^AhbM.  Under  his  sacoessors  Ahbad  (al^Mo'tamid ; 
1042-69)  and  Al-Mo'tamid  II.  (1069-91)  It  eclipsed  Cordova  so 
entirely,  that  its  population  rose  to  400,000  souls.  The  latter,  un- 
fortunately for  himself,  invited  the  Almoravides  (p.  309)  into  the 
land,  and  they  took  possession  of  it  on  their  own  account.  In  1147 
Seville  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Almohades  (p.  309),  and  in  1212 
it  might  easily  have  been  taken  by  the  Christians  after  the  battle 
of  Las  Navas  de  Tolosa  (p.  302),  if  they  had  realized  their  opportun- 
ity. Ferdinand  III.  (the  Saint)  of  Castile  conquered  it  on  St. 
Clement's  Day  (Nov.  23rd),  1248,  after  a  siege  of  six  months,  in 
which  he  was  aided  by  Ibn  al-Ahmar  (p.  335),  Sultan  of  Granada. 
Ferdinand  made  the  city  his  residence,  expelled  about  300,000 
Moors,  who  migrated  to  Granada  and  N.  Africa,  and  divided  the 
soil  among  his  followers  ('el  Repartimiento').  In  the  struggle  be- 
tween Alfonso  X.  (the  Learned;  1252-84)  and  his  son  Sancho  Se- 
ville remained  loyal  to  the  former  and  won  the  motto  mentioned 
at  p.  396.  The  most  celebrated  and  most  popular  king  in  Seville 
IV as  Peter  I.  (1350-69),  surnamed  either  EL  Cruel  or  El  Justiciero 
('the  judge')  according  to  one^s  point  of  view.  Peter  espoused  the 
cause  of  the  people  as  against  the  noblesse  and  relentlessly  punished 
the  excesses  of  the  latter.  Many  popular  anecdotes  are  still  current 
in  Seville  concerning  this  adventurous,  just,  and  cruel  monarch, 
who  appears  in  them  sometimes  as  a  kind  of  Blue  Beard,  sometimes 
as  a  judge  and  executioner.  He  has  often  been  brought  upon  the 
stage  by  dramatists  of  the  golden  age  of  Spanish  literature,  as  by 
Lope  de  Vega  in  his  'Star  of  Seville'. 

The  discovery  of  America  advanced  Seville  to  an  undreamt  of 
importance.  On  Palm  Sunday  (Mar.  31st),  1493,  Columbus  was 
formally  received  here  on  his  return  from  his  first  voyage.  Tlie 
city  was  invested  with  the  monopoly  of  the  Transatlantic  trade, 
was  chosen  as  the  seat  of  the  Tribunal  de  las  Indias^  and  soon  became 
one  of  the  chief  ports  of  Spain. 

Though  the  unification  of  Spain  forced  the  ultimate  selection  of 
Madrid  as  the  capital  of  the  kingdom  (comp.  p.  61),  Seville  remained 
loyal  even  during  the  episode  of  the  Comuneros  (p.  63)  and  was 
rewarded  with  the  motto  ^ab  Hercule  et  Caesar eridbilitas^  a  se  ipsafide- 
litas\  Its  decline  dates  from  the  accession  of  the  Bourbons,  who 
favoured  Cadiz  at  the  expense  of  SevlUe.  The  Council  of  the  Two 
Indies  was  removed  to  Cadiz  in  1720.  Nothing  was  done  to  prevent 
the  silting  up  of  the  Guadalquivir,  and  the  commerce  of  Seville 
became  a  thing  of  the  past. 

Seville  can  proudly  boast  of  being  the  birthplace  of  the  two  chief 
Spanish  painters,  Velazquez  (1699-1660)  and  MunUo  (1617-82^ 
Other  eminent  Sevillian  painters  are  Juan  de  las  Roelas  (1558- 
1625)  and  Francisco  Herrera  'el  Viejo  (1576-1654),  and  Seville  was 
also  the  home  of  Martinez  Montanis  (d.  1649),  the  famous  carver 


396  RouU  43,  SEVILLE.  Cai^a  Dmja, 

of  figures  of  the  Saviour.  Among  its  authors  are  the  dramatist  Lope 
de  Rueda(d,  1567 ?),  Fernando  de  Herrera (1534-97),  Mateo  Aleman 
(1550-I6u9),  author  of  the  Picaresque  romance  'Guzman  de  Al- 
farache',  and  the  poet  and  scholar  Alberto*Li$ta  (1775-1848).  CieeUie 
Bohl  von  Faber  (1796-1877),  the  novelist,  widely  known  under  her 
pseudonym  of  Fem&n  CabaUero^  spent  the  greater  part  of  her  life  in 
Seville  (tablet  on  house  in  the  Galle  Fernan  Caballero ,  PI.  D,  4). 
Cardinal  Wiseman  (1802-65)  was  horn  at  SeviUe. 

Seville,  the  ^Spanish  Rome',  is  the  scene  of  most  imposing 
Church  FestifxtU;  its  Chantable  Institutions  are  not  excelled  for 
number  and  equipment  by  those  of  any  .other  town  in  Spain ;  and 
Its  Bull  Fights  are  among  the  most  celebrated  of  the  country.  Music, 
however,  has  done  even  more  to  make  it  famous.  It  Is  the  scene 
of  Mo%arVs  *Don  Juan'  and  'Figaro'  and  of  BizeVs  'Carmen',  and 
there  are  many  claimants  to  be  the  shop  of  BossinVs  loquacious 
barber  ('numero  quindici,  a  mano  manca'). 

The  Goat-op- Asms  of  Seyille  consista  of  a  throned  figure  of  St.  Fer- 
dinandy  between  SB.  Leandro  and  Jtidaro  (p.  394).  The  motto  is  'rowy  noble^ 
muy  lealy  muy  heroiea  i  invietd*.  Above  is  a  crown  with  a  curions  knot 
(inadtja)  between  the  syllables  no  and  do.  Head  a«  a  rebus,  this  makes 
no  mad^a  do,  i.e.  no  nu  ha  d^ado  ('it  has  not  deserted  mej,  and  refers 
to  the  city^s  loyalty  to  Alfonso  X.  This  device  ('el  nodo^)  is  repeated  on 
every  possible  occasion  in  Seville. 

a.  The  Plaza  del  Triunfo  with  the  Aleaiar  and  the  Cathedral. 

A  visit  to  Seville  is  best  begun  at  the  Plaza  del  Triunfo  (PI. 
F,  3),  which  is  surrounded  by  three  Imposing  buildings  :  the  Lonja 
on  the  "W.,  the  Alcazar  on  the  S.,  and  the  Cathedral  on  the  N.  A 
Monument  in  the  middle  of  the  square  commemorates  the  escape 
of  Seville  at  the  Earthquake  of  Lisbon  (Nov.  1st,  1755).  On  the 
morning  of  this  day,  just  as  the  earthquake  began,  the  cathedral 
chapter  were  celebrating  mass ;  and  this  is  the  reason  of  the  annual 
procession  mentioned  at  p.  391. 

The  Casa  Lonja  (PI.  F,  3),  a  Renaissance  building  184  ft.  square 
and  56  ft.  high  to  the  parapet  (antepecho)^  was  built  for  the  mer- 
chants of  Seville  in  1583-98,  under  the  superintendence  of  Juan 
de  Mijares,  from  a  design  (not  very  closely  adhered  to)  of  Juan 
de  Herrera  (p.  110).  Before  its  erection  the  merchants  had  their 
exchange  (Casa  de  Contratacidn)  at  first  In  the  AlcAzar,  then  outside 
the  Puerta  de  San  Ori8t6bal,  and  in  the  Court  of  Oranges  at  the  cath- 
edral. The  Academy  of  Painters y  founded  on  Jan.  1st,  1660,  under 
the  presidency  of  Murillo,  also  held  its  meetings  In  the  Casa  Lonja. 

The  main  W.  entrance  leads  to  the  handsome  Patio,  built  of  sand- 
stone from  the  quarries  of  Martelilla  (near  Jerez)  and  recently  paved  with 
marble.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  double  arcade,  the  lower  story  in  the 
Doric,  the  upper  in  the  Ionic  style.  The  central  fountain  bears  a  amail 
statue  of  Columbus.  A  sumptaous  marble  *8taiboasb,  built  in  the  reign 
of  Charles  III.,  ascends  to  the  Vkstibdlo  Superiob  and  to  the  Archive 
Ganeral  de  Indias  (adm.,  see  p.  391).  The  latter,  founded  in  1784,  con- 
■»ins  a  most  extensive  collection  of  documents  relaiing  to  the  discovery, 
nquest,  and  governing  of  America  and  the  Philippine  Islands  (in  32,o0O 


Alcdtar.  SEVILLE.  43,  RouU,   397 

Uffajos^  or  portfolios,  arranged  in  11  sections).  A  number  of  the  most  im- 
portant documents,  including  autographs  of  Pitan'o,  Fernando  Cortes^ 
Magalhaes  (Magellan)^  Balboa^  and  Amerigo  Vespucci  (but  not  Columbus), 
are  exhibited  under  glass.  There  is  also  a  letter  of  Ctrvantes^  applying  • 
for  one  of  Ihe  four  ojlcio*  in  America.  The  roof  (atotia)^  reached  by  a 
tasteful  staircase,  affords  a  picturesque  view  of  Seville  and  its  cathedral. 
—  On  the  ground  floor  of  the  E.  wing  is  the  Consdlado,  or  Chamber  of 
Commerce  (conserje  V«-l  P-^i  with  the  portraits  of  Spanish  rulers.  In  a  small 
adjoining  room  are  portraits  of  eminent  merchants  of  Seville. 

The  *Alc&zar  (PL  F,  3 ;  adm.,  see  p.  391),  the  palace  of  the 
Moorish  kings,  has  been  the  residence  of  the  Spanish  sovereigns 
since  the  capture  of  Seville  (p.  395).  It  was  built  on  the  ruins  of 
the  Roman  Prsetoriuni,  and  its  original  form  was  that  of  a  huge 
triangular  castle  or  citadel,  the  apex  of  which  was  formed  by  the 
Torre  del  Oro  (p.  418).  One  side  of  the  triangle  united  this  with 
the  N.E.  angle  of  the  present  Alcazar,  the  second  ran  thence  to  the 
S.  to  the  present  tobacco  factory,  and  the  third  from  the  tobacco 
factory  back  to  the  starting-point.  The  main  entrance  then  ad- 
joined the  Torre  de  la  Plata  (p.  418).  The  S.  side  of  this  castle 
formed  the  main  object  of  St.  Ferdinand's  attack  (p.  395). 

Of  the  ancient  Alcazar,  begun  in  1181  by  Talilkdi^  an  architect 
of  Toledo,  for  the  Almohad  sultan  Ahu  Ya'kub  Yilauf,  almost  nothing 
remains.  The  nucleus  of  the  present  structure,  which  is  much  more 
limited  in  extent,  is  due  to  Pedro  the  Cruel  (p.  395),  who  caused  the 
rooms  round  the  Patio  de  la  Monterla  to  be  erected  in  1353-64  by 
Moresco  architects,  and  partly  with  the  remains  of  earlier  buildings 
at  Seville,  Cordova,  Medinat  az-Zahrl  (p.  318),  and  Valencia. 
Though  thus  originally  a  masterpiece  of  the  Mud^jar  style,  the 
building  has  been  strangely  altered  and  modified  by  the  additions 
and  restorations  of  five  Christian  centuries.  Isabella  the  Catholic 
erected  the  chapel  on  the  first  floor.  Charles  V.,  who  was  married 
to  Isabella  of  Portugal  in  the  Hall  of  the  Ambassadors,  built  the 
Court  of  the  Maidens,  added  some  other  rooms,  and  laid  out  the 
gardens.  Philip  II.  is  responsible  for  the  portraits  of  the  kings  in 
the  Hall  of  the  Ambassadors  (1610).  An  extensive  restoration  took 
place  under  Philip  IV.  (1624).  Philip  V.,  who  spent  two  years 
here  in  complete  retirement,  added  the  Apeadero  and  the  fish- 
pond. Ferdinand  VI.  erected  the  Oflcinas  above  the  baths  of  Maria 
de  Padilla  (p.  400).  The  ravages  of  the  fire  of  1762,  which  destroyed 
many  of  the  artesonado  ceilings,  were  not  made  good  till  1805.  In 
1813  the  stucco  ornamentation  of  the  Court  of  the  Maidens  was 
overlaid  with  whitewash.  The  restoration  of  1857  revived  much 
of  the  former  brilliancy  of  colouring,  but  it  was  carried  on  with 
little  sense  of  archsological  accuracy,  and  numerous  motives  were 
arbitrarily  borrowed  from  the  Alhambra.  Nevertheless,  the  extreme 
beauty  of  some  of  the-  details  of  the  Alcazar,  such  as  the  Court  of 
the  Maidens,  the  Hall  of  the  Ambassadors,  and  the  facade  of  the 
Patio  de  la  Monteria,  still  offers  a  rare  pleasure  to  even  the  most 
critical  beholder. 


398  BwU43,  SEVILLE.  AU^zar. 

The  exterior  of  the  Alcazar,  with  its  masses  of  hare  masonry 
and  its  embattled  towers,  still  preserves  the  character  of  a  mediaeval 
castle.  The  Enteancb  is  by  the  portal  in  the  S.E.  corner  of  the 
Plaza  del  Triunfo.  We  traverse  the  large  Patio  de  laa  BandtraSy 
with  its  orange-trees,  where  a  banner  was  hoisted  when  the  royal 
owner  was  in  residence  and  which  contains  a  stone  seat  used  by 
Peter  the  Cruel  when  dispensing  justice.  This  brings  us  to  the 
Apeadero,  a  passage  with  a  double  row  of  columns.  Hence  we 
may  either  pass  to  the  left  into  the  gardens  mentioned  at  p.  400, 
or  to  the  right  into  the  Jardine$  de  Maria  Padilla,  a  court,  planted 
with  orange-trees  and  palms,  and  beyond  it  into  the  Paiio  de  la 
Monterfa,  the  court  of  the  royal  lifeguards  ('monteros  de  Espinosa'). 

The  Patio  de  la  Monteria  is  flanked  on  the  one  side  by  the  8ala 
de  la  Jusiieia  and  on  the  other  by  the  •Main  Fa9Adb  (Fachada  y 
Puerta  Principal)  of  the  Alcasar,  a  richly  articulated  structure, 
resembiing  Persian  models  and  probably  in  the  main  an  imitation 
of  the  old  facade  of  Taliidi  (p*  397).  The  far-projecting  roof,  borne 
on  corbels,  overhangs  a  superb  stalactite  frieze,  below  which  is  a 
row  of  beautiful  ajimez  windows  with  marble  columns.  The  wind- 
ows and  side-doors  are  surmounted  by  ousped  Moorish  arches,  but 
the  main  portal  rather  recalls  the  Egyptian  style.  To  the  right  and 
left  the  row  of  windows  is  continued  by  an  open  gallery. 

The  portal  la  richly  adorned  with  stucco  ornameutation  and  with 
several  Arabic  inscriptions  in  the  Cufic  character.  Another  inscription 
in  early-Gothic  characters,  not  unlike  the  Cuflc,  reads :  ^El  muy  alio  e  muy 
noble  e  muy  poderoso  e  muy  conqueridor  Don  Pedro ,  por  la  gracia  de  Dies 
Rey  de  CastieUa  e  de  Leon,  mando  fazer  eetos  alcazares  e  esto*  palaeios  e  estas 
portadas.  que  fui  feeho  en  la  era  (de  Cesar)  de  miU  e  quatrodentos  y  dos 
{i.e.  1364 A.  D). 

As  in  the  Alhambra,  the  rooms  are  grouped  round  a  large  inner 
court ;  but  the  unsystematic  and  restless  arrangement  of  the  Alcazar 
contrasts  very  unfavourably,  for  all  its  brilliancy  of  colouring,  with 
the  simplicity  of  the  Grenadine  palace.  This  large  court,  entered 
from  the  Veatihulo  by  a  narrow  passage  (Pasillo)  to  the  left,  is  the 
♦Patio  db  las  Dokobllas,  or  Court  of  the  Maidens,  a  cloister-like 
space  measuring  62  ft.  by  50  ft.,  much  altered  by  Luia  de  Vega  in 
the  time  of  Charles  V.  The  lower  part  of  the  walls,  covered  with 
plaster  and  pierced  by  24  exquisite  Moorish  arches,  is  supported  by 
52  coupled  marble  columns  in  the  Renaissance  style.  The  entire 
upper  story  is  an  addition  of  the  Renaissance.  Charles  V.'s  motto, 
^plu8  ultra\  is  everywhere  in  evidence.  The  galleries  are  adorned 
with  beautiful  azulejos  (aUcatados),  The  large  doors  leading  to  the 
adjoining  rooms  are  let  into  the  stone  door-posts  and  corbels  in  the 
singular  fashion  mentioned  at  p.  360. 

To  the  S.  of  the  great  court  is  the  *8al6n  de  Carlos  QuifUOy 

with  its  beautiful  wooden  ceiling,  azulejos,  and  jalousies  (celosias). 

It  is  adjoined  on  the  W.  by  the  Room  of  Maria  de  PadiUa,  the 

organatic  wife  of  Pedro  the  Cruel.    To  the  W.   of  the  court  is 


AUd%ar. 


SEVILLE. 


43,  Route,   399 


the  magnillcent  **8aU5n  de  Emhajadores  (Hall  of  the  Ambassadors)^ 
a  room  B3  ft.  sq.,  covered  with  a  dome  in  the  media  naranja  form 
(p.  B&9 ;  renewed  in  1427)  and  adorned  with  beautiful  azulejos.  On 
the  walls  are  a  series  of  portraits  of  the  Kings  of  Spain ,  from 
Chindaswinth  to  Philip  III.  (repainted).  Above  these  is  a  broad 
frieze  of  window -like  niches  surjoaonnted  by  a  band  of  almocardbes 
(a  kind  of  Moorish  ornamental  pattern).  The  balconies  were  added 
by  Charles  V.  The  cupola  originally  contained  panes  of  coloured 
glass  instead  of  the  small  mirrors.  This  room  communicates  by 
beautiful  vaulted  doorways,  each  subdivided  by  two  columns,  with 


5aLchada  y  Puerta'princ. 


the  Comedor  (dining-room;  W.),  the  Rooms  of  Maria  de  Padilla  (S.), 
and  the  Room  of  Philip  II.  (N.).  —  To  the  N.W.  lies  the  *Patio 
de  las  Munecas,  or  Dolls'  Court,  so  named  from  the  small  figures 
in  its  decoration.  It  recalls  the  third  period  of  Arab  architecture 
(p.  356),  but  the  upper  part  is  modern.  This  court,  which  is 
believed  to  be  the  scene  of  Pedro's  murder  of  his  brother  Fabri- 
quet,  is  adjoined  by  the  Bedroom  of  Isabella  the  Catholic  and  the 
Cuarto  de  los  PrCncipes.    To  the  N.  of  the  Maidens'  Court  are  the 


t  It  was  also  aft  the  Alcazar  of  Seville  that  Peter  murdered  his  royal 
guest,  Abu  Said  of  Granada,  for  the  sake  of  his  jewels,  one  of  which,  a 
large  *spiner  ruby,  given  by  Peter  to  the  Black  Prince,  now  figures  in  the 
British  regalia  (see  Baedeker's  London). 


400  RouU43.  SEVILLE.  Qirdlda, 

so-called  Dormiiorio  de  lo$  Reyes  Moros  (Bedroom  of  the  Moorish 
Kings)  and  a  small  ante-room  (alhami),  with  its  old  flooring  and 
heautifal  columns  in  its  ajimez  windows.  The  numerous  Arabic 
inscriptions  date  from  the  Christian  period.  —  The  interesting 
rooms  on  the  Uppbb  Floor  date  mainly  from  the  16th  century.  The 
most  noteworthy  are  the  small  Chapel  of  the  Catholic  Kings^  with  a 
terracotta  altar  by  Nieolh  Francesco  of  Pisa  (1603)  and  the  motto 
*tanto  monta',  and  the  Room  of  Peter  the  Cruel.  The  four  death's 
heads,  painted  on  the  wall  of  the  latter,  near  the  door,  refer  to  four 
corrupt  judges  executed  by  the  king.  A  small  winding  staircase 
(caracol)  descends  hence  to  the  rooms  of  Maria  de  Padilla. 

The  ^Gardens  of  the  Alc&sar  (PI.  F,  G,  2,  3)  are  approached  from  the 
Patio  de  las  Banderas  through  the  Apeadero.  The  large  tank  at  the  en- 
trance collects  the  water  necessary  lor  irrigation.  Prom  the  adjoining 
terrace  we  descend  to  the  Baiios,  -a  vaulted  gallery,  where  Maria  de  Pa- 
dilla used  to  bathe,  while  Don  Pedro's  courtiers  showed  their  gallantry 
by  drinking  the  water.  In  the  middle  of  the  gardens  stands  the  Pabelldn 
de  Carlos  Quinto^  erected  by  Juan  Hernandez  in  1510  and  adorned  with 
beautiful  ftsulejos  and  a  wooden  eeiUng.  The  gardens  also  contain  a 
maze,  a  grotto,  and  'surprize  water-works'  (biirladores)y  which  beaprinkle 
the  unwary  visitor.    The  flowering  and  other  plants   are  very  beautiful. 

As  we  emerge  from  the  Alcazar  on  the  Plaza  del  Triunfo,  we  see 
in  front  of  us  the  mighty  frame  of  the  cathedral,  with  the  Capilla 
Real  (p.  407)  projecting  at  its  E.  end  and  the  lofty  Giralda  rising 
over  its  N.E.  angle. 

The  **Oiralda  (PI.  F,  4),  the  most  conspicuous  landmark  of  Se- 
ville, is  the  oldest  and  the  most  beautiful  building  in  the  city, 
distinguished  by  the  singularly  pure  and  harmonious  proportions  of 
its  outline.  It  was  originally  the  minaret  (p.  310),  or  prayer-tower, 
of  the  principal  Moorish  mosque  (p.  403),  and  was  erected  in  1184- 
96  by  the  architect  Djdbir  or  Oever  (?)  for  the  Almohad  Abu 
Ya'kub  Yiisuf  (p.  403).  Part  at  least  of  the  building  material  was  fur- 
nished by  the  remains  of  old  Roman  and  probably  also  of  Visigothic 
structures ;  many  Roman  inscriptions  are  immured  in  the  walls.  The 
massive  tower,  battering  slightly  towards  the  top,  was  then  about 
230  ft.  high.  In  ground-plan  it  is  a  square  of  49  ft.,  and  its  tile- 
faced  walls  are  8-10  ft.  in  thickness.  The  upper  surface  of  the  walls, 
above  a  height  of  about  80  ft.  from  the  ground,  is  diapered  with  a 
net-work  of  Arabesque-like  sunken  panels  (ajaracasj^  and  is  farther 
enlivened  with  niches  and  20  windows,  most  of  which  are  of  the 
so-called  'ajimez'  variety  (p.  xxxviii).  The  paintings  by  Luis  de 
Vargas  (1558)  in  the  upper  niches,  described  by  Mariana  as  'pin- 
turas  hermosas  a  maravilla',  are  faded  beyond  recognition. 

The  Giralda  belongs  to  the  second  period  of  Moorish  architecture 
(p.  356).  It  was  originally  crowned  by  an  embattled  platform  (comp. 
the  altar-piece  in  the  cathedral,  pp.  407,  408).  This  bore  an  iron 
standard  with  four  enormous  balls  of  brass,  said  to  have  been 
made  by  the  Arab  AhuH  Layth  el-Sikili  ('the  Sicilian);  but  these 
were  overthrown  by  an  earthquake  in  1395.    It  was  not  till  1668 


PaUo  d.  I.  Naranjos.       SEVILLE.  43,  Route,   401 

that  the  caihedi&l'chipter  eotnmtwioned  Sem^an  Buw  (p.  318)  to 
bnild  the  present  upper  section  of  .l&e  tower.  This  consists  of. »  rec- 
tangular helfry,  surmounted  by  another  reotangnlar  stage  of  smaller 
diameter,  the  fbur.  faces  ef  "which  bear  the  inscrtptlQa  'Nomen  Domiai 
ForiUrima  Turri$'  (Prov.  xyiii.  10).  The  whole  is  osappidd  by  a  small 
dome,  on'  which'  stands  a  bronze  feinale  figure  representing  Fai^h 
fia  Fi)^  with  the  banner  of  Gonataniine  (laba/rumj^  c^t  by  Bairto>- 
lonU'Uoftl  (1568).  This  figure  is  the  QwomUoy  qx  vane  (wltta 
gircBloria^i  which  gives  the  tower  its  name,  and  moves  quite  readily 
in  spite  of  the  ^actthat  it  is  13  ft.  high  and  weigbs  1^4  ton.  It  is 
about  308  ft.  above  the  ground.  The  ivhole  strueture  was  restored 
in  1886-88  under  the  superintendence  of  Fert^andeai  Catanom.  -r* 
The- Qiral^. stands  under  the  special  protection  otSS»  Jutta  and 
Hufinai  as  indicated  in  a  picture  by  MiviDo  (No 4 19,  p*  415). 

Ikuuor  (admu,  see  p.  901 ;  doot  at  tH«  S;E.  oornei;)*  We  a^fsend  by 
an  easy  inclined  plane,  ia  85  sectiona,  an^  ending  in  16  stepa,  to  the  Arst 
gallery,  which  arfords  a  limitless  •View,  The  bells  here  were  all  chris- 
tened with  holy  Oil  and  bear  names 'sncn  as  iSf<»l(a  JToHa,  La  Oordti^  an4 
Ml  Ca»t9r,  By  69  steps  move  we  reacliL  the  dock;  made  in  1764  by  J<a4 
Gwhdero,  a  Franciscan  monk.  The  clock  it  replaces  was  the  0r8t  tower- 
clock  in  Spain  (1400);  the  bell  (Ban  Migutl)  Is  the  original.  Between  the 
clock  and. the  Oiraldillo  are  two  atages  to  whiohvisi tors- are  not  admitted. 

The  Palaoto  Arzobibpai  (PI.  E,  P,  8),  to  the  N.  E.  of  the  Giralda, 
dates  from  tbe  i7th  cent,  and  encloses  several  handsome  patios.  It 
contains  a  small  collection  of  palTitings,  most  of  which  came  from 
the  cathedral.  The  most  Interesting  are  the  Conception,  Birth  of  the 
•Virgin,  and  Purification,  three  pictures  by  AU30  Fernandez^  an 
early  master  of  Seville.  The  eecieiiaatical  dungeon  of  La  Parra^ 
within  tbis  palaoe,  is  often  mentioned  In  poems  aud  novels. 

Adjacent,  at  ^0.  6  Galle  Abades  (PI.  £L  8),  is  a  house  with  a  fine 
patio.  —  At  the  comer  of  this  street  and  the  CJalle  Marmoles  the  shafts 
of  three  huge  granite  columns  were  recently  discovered,  probably  belong- 
ing, like  those  In  the  Alameda  de  Hercules  (p.  413))  to  a-  Roman  temple. 

The  OAiitJB  PB  AxEMANBs,  running  to  the  "W.  from  the  Arch- 
bishop^s  Palaoe,  skirts  the  N.  side  of  the  *]Patio  de  lbs  Haranjos 
(PI.  F,  3),  the  oeurt  of  the  old  Moorish  mosque  (p.  403).  As  at 
Cordova  (p.  313),  this  'Court  of  the  Oranges'  is  entered  by  a  raised 
Lon^a  or  Oradaa  and  through  a  handsome  Puerta  del  Perddn,  This 
gate,  whleh  according  to  Amader  de  los  Bios  was  erected  in  honour 
of  Alfonso  XL's  victory  on  the  Sala.do  (1340),  more  probably  dates, 
like  the  court  itself,  from  the  Almohad  period,  though  it  has  receiv- 
ed several  Christian  additions.  The  bronze  -  mounted  *Dooi8, 
marred  by  a  coat  of  paint,  and  the  knockers,  resembling  those  of 
Cordova,  are  in  the  Mud^jar  style.  The  plateresque  ornamentation 
is  by  Bartolomi  Lopez  (1522).  The  sculptures,  consisting  of  statues 
of  SS.  Peter  and  Paul,  a  group  of  the  Annunciation,  and  a  relief  of 
the  Expulsipn  of  the  Money  Changers  from  the  Temple  (in  referemie 
to  the  use  ef  the  court  ^s  an  exchange,  p.  396)  are  by  Miguel  of 
Florence  (15 19).  The  magnificent  old  artesonado  ceiling  was  removed 

Babdeksb's  Spain.  26 


402  Route  43.  SEVILLE.  Ca^tdral. 

in  1883  and  replaced  by  a  Towtf,  Above  tbe  inner  arebvmy  are 
a  sun-dial  and  a  grotesque  head. 

The  Intbbiob  of  the  court,  which  is  7QS  ft.  long  and  126  ft.  wide, 
is  very  picturesque.  In  front  of  us  is  the  Cathedral,  to  the  right  the 
Sagrario  (p.  408),  to  the  left  the  Library  of  Columbus  (see  below), 
over  all  the  Giralda.  The  fountain  in  the  middle  is  theold  Moorish 
Midhd  (p.  310),  consisting  of  an  octagonal  basin  resting  on  six 
supports  and  surmounted  by  a  second  basin.  To  the  W.  of  the 
fountain  is  an  inscription  marking  the  resting-place  of  two  victims 
of  the  tyranny  of  Napoleon.  The  CapiUa  de  la  Oranadaj  in  the  S.E. 
comer  of  the  court,  still  retains  a  horseshoe  aioh  of  the  old  mosque. 
In  a  dark  chamber  here  hang  an  elephant's  tusk  (weighing  66  lbs.), 
the  aUeged  bridle  of  Bdbitca,  the  horse  of  the  Old  (p.  ^),  and  the 
so-called  Laga/rto  ('lizard') ,  a  stuffed  crocodile  sent  by  the  Sultan 
of  Egypt  to  Alfonso  the  Learned  in  1260,  along  with  a  request  for 
the  hand  of  his  daughter.  Against  the  wall  of  the  library,  on  the 
£.  side  of  the  court,  is  an  old  stone  pulpit,  in  which  St.  Vincent 
Ferrer,  St.  Francis  of  Borja,  And  *otros  grandes  varones'  preached,  as 
recorded  by  the  inscription  below. 

The  ^BiBLioTBCA  CoLUMBiKA  (entrance  by  the  last  door  to  the 
left),  formed  by  Fernando  CoUSn  (p.  404)  and  bequeathed  by  him  to 
the  Cathedral  Chapter  In  1539,  contains  about  30,000  vols,  and  is 
rich  in  works  relating  to  the  discovery  of  America. 

Among  its  chief  rarities  are  tlie  Bible  of  Ai/orno  the  Leamedj  by  Pedru 
de  Pamplona;  the  PontiMal  of  Bishop  Juan  de  Calahorra  (1390);  tke 
MUial  of  Card.  Mendoza  (lith  cent) ;  a  Libto  de  Herat,  said  to  have 
belonged  to  Isabella  the  Oatholic^  the  Missale  SispakMe  (lfi-16tk  cent.)( 
and  the  MisMl  of  Card.  QonKalez  de  Mendoza  (16th  cent.)»  ftH  illnstrated 
with  beautifal  miniatures.  —  The  glory  of  the  collection  is,  however, 
the  Five  Hanascripts  of  Oolambaa,  inelndine  a  copy  of  the  Tr<»etatus 
de  Imagine  Mundi  by  Card.  Pierre  d'Ailly^  with  marginal  notes  in  the 
handwriting  of  Columbus,  and  a  treatise  on  the  Biblical  indications  of 
the  New  World,  written  by  Columbus  in  prison  to  pacify  the  Inqui- 
sition. —  On  the  walls  are  portraits  of  the  Archbishops  and  other  celebrated 
'h^jos  de  SeviUa\  That  of  St.  Ferdinand  ia  a  copy  after  Hurillo.  A  sword 
of  the  16th  cent,  is  wrongly  described  as  that  of  Femdn  Qonzdlex  (p.  32), 
used  by  Qareia.  Perez  de  Vargas  at  the  capture  of  Seville. 

Two  doors  lead  from  the  Court  of  Oranges  into  the  cathedral : 
the  Puerto  del  Lagarto  and  the  PUerta  de  lot  Naranjoe.  It  is,  how- 
ever, preferable  to  quit  the  court  by  the  Puerta  del  Perd6n  and  to 
enter  the  cathedral  from  the  Calls  dbl  Oban  CAprrAN,  on  its  W. 
side.  In  this  street,  opposite  the  cathedral,  is  the  Colegio  deSan 
Miguel^  a  priests'  seminary,  bearing  a  memorial  tablet  to  the 
composer  Eelava  (1807-78 ;  p.  390). 

The  •^Cathedral  (PI.  F,  3;  adm.,  see  p.  391)  is  undoubtedly 
one  of  the  largest,  handsomest,  and  richest  Gothic  churches  in 
Christendom,  unexcelled  in  its  impression  of  solemn  mystery,  and 
at  once  a  veritable  museum  of  works  of  art  and  a  treasury  of  histor- 
ical associations.    An  old  saying  groups  the  chief  cathedrals  of 


CATCDRAL  DE  SEVILLA 

f     t     »  *  r  Metro* 


if-t"t"tr^°b. 


jfciHillMHIIJfllfliff 


1  SepitLcro  deFemando  Colon, 

2  Cap.cLLConcepclorv  cfUccu 

3  CaplUcL  dflosJcLcomes 
tAZtar  de  la.  Tisitadprv 
5  (ktpUla  de  S.Leandro 
^Jltar  dJ/:S.del  Consujelo 
1  CapiUa.  de  SJsidoro 

^  Altar  del  Tfacimiento 
9  CofiiUjCL  de  S.Zcacreanx) 
10       '       deS.AncL 


11  CapiUa,  de  S.Jose 

12  »       deS.BBrmenegUdo 

13  '      de  ULAnt^ua 
X^Jltar  de  la,  Oamba. 

15  '     delcL  Santa,Oux 

16  CapiUa,  de  loaJDolores 

17  '        deSoTiAndres 

18  #       delMariscal 
Vi  CorUojduT-ia.  maytfr 

20  CapiUa,  d-l.  Concepgrande 


21  CapOlcL  de  SaivPedro 

22  '       delPUqr 

m        »      de  losErqngeUstas 
Zh        "       dt  lasJfonoeUas 

25  .ifttzr  <fe  laAsunacfrv 

26  *     d.LTirgende£eien 

27  CapUUL  de  SJ'rancisco 

28  •       £fe  Santtago 

29  '       deSscxxlas 

30  '       delBautisterio 


Geo^.  AnsUvi'WagBer  JbDebes.  Leipzig. 


Cathedral,  SEVILLE.  43.  Route.    403 

Spain  together  as  '  Toledo  Ubrica^  Salamanca  la  fuette^  Leon  la  hellHy 
Oin«do  la  eacra^  e  SeviUa  la  grande'-  Like  all  otbei  Spanish  churches 
from  which  Christianity  has  driven  out  Islam,  the  cathedral  of 
Seville  is  dedicated  to  Santa  Maria  de  laSede.  At  first  the  Spaniards 
contented  themselves  with  consecrating  the  great  mosque  of  Abu 
Ya^kub  Yiauf,  built  in  1171  et  seq.  When,  however,  this  'Old 
Cathedrar  fell  into  disrepair,  the  Chapter  determined  (1401)  to 
erect  the  pxesent  basilica  'on  so  magnificent  a  scale  that  coming 
ages  might  proclaim  them  mad  to  have  undertaken  lt\  This  build- 
ing was  begun  in  1402  and  practically  finished  in  1506.  The  arch- 
itects, who  are  unknown,  came,  perhaps,  from  Germany.  The  dome 
colUpsed  in  1511  and  was  re-erected  from  a  deaigu  by  Juaok  Oil  de 
Hontanon  (p.  466)  in  1512-17.  The  whole  of  the  vaulting  of  the 
church  was  considerably  weakened  by  earthquake  shocks,  and  an 
extensive  restoration  was  begun  in  1882  under  the  superintendence 
of  Casanova  (p.  401),  but  unfortunately  too  late  to  prevent  a  second 
collapse  of  the  dome  (Aug.  1st,  1888).  Scaffoldings  were  at  once 
run  up  to  try  to  save  the  rest.of  the  vaulting,  and  the  reconstruction 
of  the  dome  is  now  under  way. 

The  W.  facade,  the  only  exposed  side  of  the  cathedifal,  contain^ 
three  portals :  the  Puerta  Mayors  with  a  relief  of  the  Assumption  by 
Ricardo  Bellver  (1885) ;  the  Puerta  del  Naeimiento  pr  de  San  Miguel 
to  the  S. ;  and  the  Puierta  del  Bautiemo  or  de  San  Juan  to  the  N. 
The  last  two  are  adorned  with  beautiful  sculptures  by  Pedro  Millan 
(ca.  1500).  The  tasteless  upper  part  of  the  facade  dates  from  1827. 
—  The  i^€fta  de  ka  CmnpaniUas  and  the  Puerta  de  los  Palos^  at 
the  E.  end  of  the  church,  are  even  more  lavishly  adorned  with 
sculptures  (ascribed  to  Lope  Marin,  1548)  than  those  of  the  W. 
facade.  —  The  three  portals  on  the  N.  side  (Puerta  del  LagartOy 
p.  402;  Puerta  de  los  Naranjos,  p.  402;  and  Puerta  del  Sagrario) 
are  unfinished.  —  The  Puerta  de  San  CristiShal  or  de  la  Lonja,  at 
the  S.  end  of  the  transept,  was  added  by  Casanova  in  1887. 

In  his  description  of  tbe  cathedra],  published  in  1804,  Cean  Bei-mudez 
says :  ^Seen  firom  a  certain  distance,  it  resembles  a  high-pooped  and  be> 
flagged  ship,  rising  over  the  sea  with  hazmonious  grouping  of  sails,  pen- 
nons, and  banners,  and  with  its  main-mast  towering  over  the  mizzen- 
mast,  fore-mast,  and  bowsprit.  Its  lofty  tower  (Giralda)  and  snperb 
transept  dominate  the  other  navea  and  chapels  with  their  myriads  of 
turrets,  pinnacles,  and  bosses'.  —  Caveda  writes:  ^The  general  e£fect  is 
truly  majestic  The  open-work  parapets  which  crown  the  roofs;  the 
graceful  lanterns  of  the  eight  winding  stairs  that  ascend  in  the  comers 
to  the  vaults  and  galleries;  the  flying  buttresses  that  spring  lightly  from 
aisle  to  nave,  as  the  jets  of  a  cascade  from  diff  to  cliff;  the  slender 
pinnacles  that  cap  them;  the  proportions  of  the  arms  of  the  transept  and 
of  the  buttresses  supporting  the  side- walls;  the  large  pointed  windows 
that  oilmen  between  them,  one  above  another,  just  as  the  aisles  and  chapels 
to  which  they  belong  rise  over  each  other;  the  pointed  portals  and  en- 
trances: —  all  these  combine  in  an  almost  miraculous  manner,  although 
there  are  lacking  the  wealth  of  detail,  the  airy  grace,  and  the  delicate 
elegance  that  chatracteri^e  the  cathedrals  of  Leon  and  BuTgos\ 

The  Intbbiob,  at  present  wholly  spoiled  and  idarkened  by  the 

26* 


404  Route  43.  SEVILLE.  Cathedral 

scaffolding  (p.  403),  has  a  nave,  double  aisles,  two  rows  of  eide 
chapels,  a  transept  flash  with  the  main  walls,  a  coro  in  the  middle 
of  the  nave,  and  a  capllla  mayor.  The  total  length,  e-xclnsive  of  the 
Capilla  Real  (p.  407),  Is  380  ft.,  the  width  is  260  ft.  The  nate  is 
53  ft.  wide  and  132  ft.  high  -,  the  aisles  are  36  ft.  wide  and  85  ft. 
high.  The  total  area  is  124,000  sq.  ft.  (Milan  Cathedral  90,000  sq.  ft., 
Toledo  Cathedral  75,000 sq. ft. ,  St.  Paul's  in  London  84,000  sq.  ft., 
St.  Peter's  162,000  sq.  ft.).  *The  majestic  simplicity  and  decorative 
restraint  of  the  whole,  the  carefully  observed  rhy^mlcal  relatiims 
of  one  part  to  another  are  delightful  in  propbrtion  to  the  size  of 
the  diniensions,  the  purity  of  the  lines,  and  the  graeeful  section 
of  the  profiles'  (Caveda).  —  Th6  handsome  marble  flooring  was  laid 
in  1787-95. 

The  75  stained-glass  windows  were  executed  in  the  course  of 
the  16-1 9th  cent.,  partly  after  paintings  by  the  ^eat  Italian  masters. 
Among  the  finest  are  the  earliest  of  all  by  Micet  CrUUSbttl  AUman 
(1504);  the  Ascension,  Christ  and  Mary  Magdalen,  th<e  Awakening 
of  Lazarus,  the  Entry  into  Jerusalem,  and  other  scenes  by  :Amao  de 
FLandes  (1525-57)  and  Arnao  de  Vefgwa;  and  the  Resurrection  by 
Carlos  de  Bruges  (1 563). 

In  the  nave,  near  the  main  W.' entrance,  H  the  tombstone  (PI.  1) 
of  Fernando  Coldri  (d.  1640  or  1641),  the  learned  son  of  the  great 
discoverer.-  It  bears  representations  of  the  caravels  of  Columbus  and 
the  famous  inscription :  ^d  CaeUUa  y  d  Leon  mundo  nueho  dv6  Colon,'' 

Over  this  tombstone,  in  Paasion  Week,  is  ere43ted  the  Kohumento,  a 
wooden  temple,  106  ft.  high,  decorated  in  white  and  gold.  It  is  aaid  to 
have  been  originally  con.structed  by  Antonio  Flormtin  in  1545-54  in  the 
form  of  a  Greek  cross ^  consisting  of  three  stages  and  enfiing  in  a  crucifits. 
In  1649,  1668,  and  1H89  it  was  restored  and  hdghtened  so  as  nearly  to 
remh  the  vaulting  of  the  Cathedral.  On  the  night  between  IM[aundy  Thurs- 
day and  Good^  Friday,  when  .the  Host  is  deposited  here,  the  Moniimento 
is  brilliantly  illuminated  and  produce^  an  effect  as  of  magic  (p.  390). 

The  TsASCOjELO,  worked  in  marble  in  the  Doric  style,  contains 
a  painting  of  the  Virgen  de  los  Remedios  (beginning  of  the  16th 
cent.),  a  smaller  picture  ascribed  to  Francisco  Pacheeo  (1633)  and 
representing  the  Surrender  of  Seville  to  St.  Ferdinand,  and  four 
marble  reliefs  from  Genoa.  Two  doors  enter  the  coro  from  this  side. 

The  OoRo  and  its  contents  were  almost  totally  destroyed  by  the 
fall  of  the  dome.  Its  treasures  of  art  included  the  reja  by  8ancho 
Munoz  ri519)  at  its  E.  end,  the.facistol  (lectern)  by  Bartolomd 
Morel  (1670),  the  choir-books  of  Sanchez^  Oria,  PadiUay  and  Diego 
delSalto  (1516-1600),  $nd  the  famous  Gothic  siUeria  by  Nufro 
Sanchez  and  Dancart  (1475-79).  I'he  two  organs,  by  George  Bosch 
(1777)  and  Valentin  Verdalonga  (1817),  were  also  destroyed;  and 
a  like  fate  befell  the  smaller  rejas  by  Sancho  Munoz  In  the  space 
between  the  choir  and  capilla  mayor  (*Entre  los  Cores'). 

In  thi^  space,  during  Holy  Week,  is  ereeted  the  Tenebrario,  an 
artietip  candelabrnm  by  Morel  (15623,  26  ft.  high  and  adorned  with  15 
Btatoettes.    If  holds  18  eaadles,  12  of  which,  representini^  the  faint-hearted 


Caih€dTal.  SEVILLE.  48.  BauU.  405 

Apostlef,  $n  extiBguished  one  by  one »  wbile  the  ISth,  of  ;white  wax,  is 
left  barning  to  typify  Ihe  loyalty  of  the  Virgin  aiaiy. 

The  Capilla  Mayob,  to  which  several  steps  ascend,  was  screened 
from  the  crossing  by  theReja  Principal  by  the  Dominican  Francisco 
de  Salamanca  (ibiS) J  with  a  pulpit  at  each  side,  but  this  was 
destroyed  by  the  falling  dome.  The  chapel  contains  a  large  retablo 
made  of  larch-wood,  which  was  also  damaged  by  the  faU  of  the 
dome.  The  central  niche  is  occupied  by  a  silver  figure  of  the  Virgen 
de  la  Sede  hy  Francisco  Alfaro  (^1696),  and  in  the  other  46  com- 
partments are  painted  and  gilded  groups  of  scenes  from  the  Bible 
and  the  life  of  the  Virgin.  At  the  top  are  a  crucifix  and  lifesi^e 
statuM  of  the  Virgin  and  St.  John.  The  whole  retablo  was  executed 
from  designs  by  Dancart  (1482j  and  was  completed  in  ^626.  The 
tabernacle  and  the  reading-desk^  are  by  Alfaro.  —  The  SacrisUa 
Alia,  behind  the  high-altar,  has  a  fine  artesonado  ceiling. 

The  SiDB  Chapels  and  their  sacristies  fgrm  a  veritable  musieum 
of  painting  and  sculpture,  th«  full  enjoyment  of  which  is  marred 
by  the  inadequate  light.  A  list  of  their  names  is  given  on  the 
ground-plan  opposite  p.  403.  The  mpst  important  works  of  art  are 
mentioned  below  in  the  places  they  usually  occupy ;  but  the  most 
valuable  have  been  collected  in  the  Sacristfa  de  los  Calice^  (p.  406) 
until  the  restoration  of  the  church  Is.  finished. 

W.  Side.  At  the  Altar  de  la  Vintucidn  (PI.  4)  are  a  picture  by 
Pedro  ViUegat  MurmoUja  (1620-97)  afid  a  Penitent  St  Jerome  by 
Jerdnimo  Hemande%,  —  Adjoining  the  Puerta  Mayor  is.  the  AUar 
de  NtuBtra  Senora  del  Consueio  (PI.  6),  with  a  Holy  Family  by 
Alonso  Miguel  de  Tohar  (1720),  a  pupil  of  MuriUo.  —  Beyond  the 
Puerta  del  Nacimiento  is  the  small  Altar  del  Nacimiento  (Pi.  8),  with 
the  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  the  Four  Evangelists,  and  other  excel- 
lent paintings  by  Luis  de  Vargas  (1502-68). 

S.  Aisle.  Capilla  de  8an  Laureano  (PI.  9),  with  the  tomb  of 
Archhp,  Alonso  de  Ex'ea  (d.  1417).  —  In  the  Cap.  de  Santa  Ana 
(PI.  10),  to  the  left,  is  an  altar  from  the  old  cathedral  (p.  403), 
with  14  pictures  of  the  begiuning  of  the  15th  cent.,  and  a  paint- 
ing of  St.  Anna  of  1504.  Over  another  altar  is  a  Christ,  euniamed 
de  Mara^Mibo.  The  tomb  of  Archhp.  Luis  de  la  Lastral  by  Bicatdo 
BeUner,  was  erected  in  1880.  —  Cap^  de  San  Jos6  (PI.  11),  with 
an  Adoration  of  the  Holy  Child  and  a  Presentation  in  the  Temple 
by  Fraricisco  AntoLinez  (1644-76)  and  a  Marriage  of  the  Virgin  by 
Juan  VaUes  Leal,  —  The  Cap.  4«  San  Hetmmegildo  (PI.  12)  con- 
tains the  ^Imiagen  Titular'  of  this  saint,  ascribed  to  Montanis^  and 
the  ^Tornb  of  Archbp.  Juan  de  Cervantes  (d.  1453)  by  Lorenzo 
Mercadante  de  Breiana.  —  In  the- Cap.  de  la  Antigua  (Pi*  18)  are 
an  altar-piece  of  the  14th  cent,  (retonched)  representing  the  Virgin 
and  Child  with  a  rose  {p.  Ixiii),  apd  the  handsome  monument  of 
Card,  Mendoza^  by  Miguel  of  Florence  (1509). 

In  i^e  S.  transept,  tp  the  right  of  the  Puerto  de  San  Cristdbal, 


406  nouteiS.  SEVILLE.  Cathedral. 

gtands  the  Altar  de  la  Oamba  (PI.  14),  with  the  celebrateTd  ♦*Geiie- 
racion'  by  Luia  de  Vargas^  restored  in  1879.  This  work,  depicting 
Adam  and  Eve  adoring  the  Virgin,  Is  a  symbolical  representation 
of  the  Immaculate  Conception  and  is  generally  known  as  *La  Oamba*, 
from  the  finely  drawn  andpaintedlegof  Adam.  Opposite  is  a  colossal 
painting,  33  ft.  high,  of  San  Cristdbal  (Sf.  Christopher),  by  the  Italian 
Mateo  Perez  de  ALesio  (1584).  This  point  aifoJds  a  very  picturesque 
view  of  the  interior  of  the  cathedral.  —  On  the  other  side  of  the 
portal  is  the  Altar  de  la  Santa  Cruz  (PI.  15),  with  a  Descent  from 
the  Cross  by  Pedro  Fernandez  de  Guadalupe  (1527).  —  Through  the 
Cap.  de  lo8  Dolores  (Pi.  16)  we  reach  the  pseudo-Gothic  Sacbistia  db 
LOS  Calices  (open  till  8  a.m. ;  at  other  hours,  fee),  built  by  Diego  de 
Biano  (d.  1533)  and  Martin  Oainza  (d.  1556)  in  1530-37.  In  front 
of  us  is  a  celebrated  Crucifix,  by  Montanis^  from  the  Cartuja  (p.  420). 
On  the  left  wall  is  the  *Guardian  Angel  ('Angel  de  la  Guarda*) 
otMurillo^  a  work  that  is  little  considered' by  professional  art-cri- 
tics but  seems  to  have  made  a  profound  Impression  on  Borrow, 
A.  J.  C.*Barej  Severn  Teackle  Wallis,  and  many  other  intelligent 
travellers.  On  the  same  Wall :  Morales'^  Triptych  with  the  Ecce  Homo, 
the  Virgin,  and  St.  John ;  Laiis  de  Vargcis,  Fernando  de  Contreras 
(d.  1548),  the  liberator  of  many  Christian  slaves;  MurlllOj  St.  Dor- 
othy ;  Early  German  School,  Pietk  and  DeJaith  of  the  Virgin ;  Juan 
Nunez  (15th  cent.),  PietJi,  with  St.  Michael,  St.  Vincent,  and  the 
donor;  Goya,  SS.  JustaandRuflna(1817);  Dom.  Tkeotocopuli, 'Ko\y 
Trinity.   Opposite,  on  the  window- wall.  Is  a  St.  John  by  Zurbaran. 

To  the  E.  of  the  Sacristia  de  las  Calices  and  entered  through  the 
Ante-Sala  is  the  Sacbist/a  Mayob  (open  11-12;  fee  1  p.),  built  In 
1532  et  seq.  by  Diego  de  Riano  And. Martin  Gainxa  in  a  pleasing 
Renaissance  style.  It  contains  a  few  good  paintings,  Including  a 
•Descent  from  the  Cross  by  Pedro  Campana  (1548;  badly  restored 
in  1882)  and  SS.  Leander  and  Isidore  by  Murillo.  The  rich  Treasury 
of  the  cathedral  is  also  kept  here. 

Among  the  chief  possessions  are  a  silver  *Cugfodia,  10  ft.  high,  exe- 
cuted hy  Juan  de  Arphe  in  1880-87  and  restored  by  Juan  Segura  in  1668; 
silver  candelabra)  portable  altar  in  solid  silver)  the  bronze  *Tenebrario 
(p.  404);  the  Tahlcu  Al/onsincUt  a  reliquary  in  the  form  of  a  triptych, 
presented  to  the  chapter  in  1274  by  Alfonso  the  Learned ;  numerous  other 
costly  crosses,  church-plate,  and  the  like;  a  series  of  superb  Vettmenti, 
from  the  14th  cent,  to  the  present  day.  The  two  Ke^f  said  to  haye  been 
presented  to  8t.  Ferdinand  on  the  capture  of  Seville  are  also  interesting. 
The  silver  key  surrendered  by  the  Moors  bears  the  inscription:  *May 
Allah  grant  that  Islam  may  rule  eternally  In  this  .eity\  On  the.  iron- 
giU  key  of  tha'  Jews,  in  the  Hud^jar  style,  are  the  words :  ^The  King  of 
Kings  will  open,  the  King  of  the  Earth  will  enter'.  The  old  *Brotue 
Door  of  the  Sagrario  Yiejo  (jp.  406),  in  the  Itfud^jar  style  of  the  14th 
cent.,  was  long  kept  in  the  Sacristia  Alta  (p.  406). 

The  Cap.  del  Mariscdl  (Pi.  18)  contains  an  ♦Altar-piece  by 
Pedro  Campana,  restored  In  1880.  It  Is  In  ten  sections,  with  the 
Purification  of  the  Virgin,  the  Child  Jesns  In  the  Temple,  portraits 
of  Marshal  Pedro  Caballero,  the  founder,  and  his  family,  etc. 


Cathidrd.  SEVILLE.  4S,  Route,   407 

The  <ntl  *Sala  Capitulab,  46  ft.  long  by  29  Vs  ft.  wide,  was 
began  by  RiaSio  and  Gakisa  in  1530  bat  notflnislied  till  after  1582. 
Its  Doric  entablatare  rests  upon  lonle  pilasters;  tbe  decoration  is 
plftteresqae.  The  beaatifal  toiling,  tbe  marble  pavement  with  the 
^nod«'  (p.  396 ;  generally  ooyered)^  and  the  16  marble  medallions 
from  Genoa  all  deserve  attenUon.  The  pictnres  inolude  a  *Goncep- 
tion  by  AfvriKo,  a  St.  Ferdinand  by  Pcuheco,  and  the  Four  Ylrtnes 
by  PcAlo  de  dapedes.  Murillo  also  painted  die  eight  ovals  between 
the  windows. 

E«  End.  Beyond  the  Paerta  de  las  Oampanillas  is  the  Cap,  de 
la  Coneepoi6n  Orande  (PI.  20),  with  the  monument  of  Card.  Ckn" 
fuegd  (1881).  —  Adjacent,  in  the  main  axis  of  the  church  and 
screened  by  a  lofty  reja  of  1773,  is  the  Gafilla  Real,  a  Renaissance 
structure,  92  ft.  long,  50  ft.  wide,  and  130  ft.  high.  It  was  begun 
by  Martin  Oainza  in  1551  on  the  site  of  the  old  royal  chapel  torn 
down  in  1481,  was  continued  by  Hernan  Ruiz  (p.  316),  and  was 
finished  in  1575  by  Juan  de  Maeda,  The  lofty  dome  is  borne  by 
eight  candelabram-Iike  pilasteTS ;  the  plastio  ornamentation  is  very 
Tteb.  To  the  light  and  left  of  the  entrance  to  the  ohapel  are  the 
tombs  of  Alfonso  the  Learned  (d.  1284)  and  his  mother  Beatrice  of 
Swabiii,  The  apse  is  separated  from  the  rest  of  the  chapel  by  a 
screen.  On  the  high-altar  at  the  back,  to  which  a  few  steps  ascend, 
stands  the  VUrgen  de  lo$  Rtyes^  &  figure  of  the  13th  cent.,  sud  to 
have  been  given  by  St.  Louis  of  France  to  St.  Ferdinand  of  Spain. 
It  has  removable  golden  hair,  and  its  shoes  are  adorned  with  fleurs 
de  lis  and,  the  word  'amor'.  Its  golden  crown  was  stolen  in  1873. 
On  a  lower  altar,  in  front,  is  a  shrine  of  1729,  containing  the  body 
QiSt,  Ferdinand,  King  of  Spain  (d.  May  31st,  1252),  which  is  ex- 
hibited to  the  public  on  May  30th,  Aug.  22nd ,  and  Nov.  23rd 
(p.  395),  while  the  troopa  of  the  garrison  march  past  and  lower  their 
Golours.  —  The  steps  near .  the  front  altar  descend  to  the  Pantedn^ 
eontaining  the  coffins  of  Peter  the  Gruel,  Maria  de  Padilla  (p.  400), 
the  Infantes  Fadrique,  Alonso^  and  Pedro,  and  other  members  of 
the  royal  family.  Above  the  original  coffin  of  St.  Ferdinand  is 
placed  a. small  ivory,  statuette  of  La  Virgen  de  las  Batallas,  which 
the  royal  saint  always  carried  at  his  ^ddle-bow.  Adjacent  are  his 
penddn  (pennant),  renewed  in  1531,  and  his  sword.  The  latter  is 
carried  in  the  procession  of  Nov.  23rd  (see  above).  —  In  the  Sacristy 
of  the  Gap.  Keal  are  a  Mater  Dolorosa  by  Murillo  and  two  Saints 
(Ignatius  and  Francis  Xavier)  by  Pacheco.  —  The  Cap.  de  8an  Pedro 
(PI.  21)  contains  nine  paintings  by  Zurbaran  and  the  monument  of 
Ari^bp,  Diego  Deta^  destroyed  by  the  Ftench  and  restored  in  1883. 
^  Beyond  this  chapel  is  the  Paerta  de  los  Palos  (p.  403). 

N.  Aisle.  In  the  Cap,  del  Pilar  (PI.  22)  is  a  figure  of  the  Virgen 
del  Pilar  by  l^«<lfo  MiUan  (p.  403>  —  Beyond  the  Puerta  del  Lagarto 
is  the  Cap.  de  los  Evtmgelistas  (PJ.  23),,  with  an  altar-piece  in  nine 
sections  by  Hernando  de  Slwmio  (1555),  of  interest  forats  represent-^ 


408   Route  43,  SEVILLE.  Sagforia. 

ation  of  tke  old  atr^lda  (p.  400).  -^  By  the  PaoiU  de  los  Naranjos 
(p.  402)  are  the  Altar  de  la  AmndiSn  (PI.  26),  with  an  Assumptiaii 
by  Catio  Maratta,  and  tbe  Altar  de  la  Virgen.  de  BeUn  (PI.  26), 
with  a  ^FaiBting  of  the  Virgin  by  AIqhso  Cano.  •-*  The  Cap,  deSan 
FVaneitco  (PI.  27)  has  a  Glorification  of  St.  Francis  by  Eerrera  el 
Mo90  (1657)  and  a  painting  by  Juan  Valdis  Leal  (Virgin  and  St^ 
Ildefonso,  p.  140).  —  In  the. Ca|>.  de  Santiago  (PL  28)  are  a  *St 
James  by  Juan  de  las  &oeZaa(1609),  a  St.  Lawrenee  by  Valdfy  Leal, 
and  the  much-damaged  tomb  of  Archbp.  Oonsalo  de  Af€n«(d.  1401). 
^^  The  Cap.  de  Eicalas  (Pi.  29)  contains  the  cenotaph  of  Bishop 
Baltasar  del  Bio  (d.  at  Rome  in  1540),  a  friend  of  Leo  X.,  a  relief 
of  the  Day  of  Fenteeoat  (1539),  and  two  paintings  by  Luea  Qior» 
dano,  '— <  In  the  middle  of  the  Oapilla  dbl  BAVTisTsnto  (PI.  30; 
best  light  hi  the  forenoon)  is  the  huge  Pilat  or  font,  containing 
the  oil  consecrated  in  Passion  Week.  On  the  wall  hangp  **St«  An- 
tony of  Padua's  Vision  of  the  Holy  Child,  one  of  MutiUds  master- 
pieees,  painted  in  1666,  and  wonderfully  fine  in  CQlouring,.  The 
figure  of  the  kneeling  saint  was  cat  out  of  the  loantas  in  Nor., 
1874  y.  but  it -was  recovered  at  New  York  the  following  JFeV 
tnary  and  has  been  skilfully  replaced  by  Martinez  Oubella  of  the 
Madrid  Mhseum.  Above  this  picture  hangs  a  B&ptlsm  of  Christ, 
also  by  H^mUlo. 

We  have  srtill  to  visit  the  Sagrario  fentr.  firom  the  Court  of 
Oranges  oif  by  the  Puerta  del  Sagrario,  p.  403),  begun  in  the  baroque 
style,  6n  the  site  of  the  Sagrario  ViejO,  by  Miguel  Zwm&tfaga  in 
-1618  and  finished  "by  Lorenao  Fernandez  de  Igtesicwin  1662.  It 
is  now*  used  as  a  parish-church.  The  building  is  112  ft.- long  and 
60  ft.  ulride,  and  it  is  spanned  by  a  single  bold  vault;  75  ft.  high. 
The  rotable  by  Pedro  Boldan,  brought 'from  the  old  Fra^nciscan  con- 
vent (p.  409),  includes  a  relief  of  the  Entry  into  JerusiJeni  and  tn 
altar-piece,  the  Descent  from  the  Cross.  The  statue  of  St.  Clement, 
by  Pedro  I)uque  Comejo]  should  not  be  overlooked.  By  a  side^altai 
is  a  *Statue  of  the  Virgin  by  MontanSs^  formerly  in  the€apilla  de  la 
Goncepci6n  Chica.  —  Beneath  the  Sagrario  Is^  the  Burial  Vault  of 
the  Archbishops  of  Seville,  With  a  handsome  tetracotta  altar,  in  the 
Delia  Robbia  style,  from  the  Capilla  de  la  Granada  (p*  402).  *—  The 
walls  of  the  Sacrfyiy^  with  their  beautiful  azttlej^ij  belonged  orig- 
inally to  the  Moorish  mosque.  i 

..    b.  The  Central,  Eastern,)  and  Northern  Parts  of  thQ  City. 

From  the  N.W»  an^le  of  the<)ourt  o£  Oranges  the  bus^.  Oalle  de 
Geneva  leads  to  the  Plaza  db  la  CoKBinvotiSv  {l^L  £),  3)  Ikurmerly 
'named  Plana  de  San  Frandsco)^  surtounded  with  handsome  balpanied 
houses  &n^  having  the  City  Bial]  on  one. side  ol  it  and  the  Audiencia 
on  the  other^  It  was  in  days  of  yore  the  fr,e4Uent  scene  ofvtouma- 
mentfi,  .bull-flghtB,  oarniTal  fetes,  and  e&eeutio<)s.    The  Isatsuto 


PL  d,  S,  Femcmdo.  SEVILLE.  43.  RiiuU:    409 

de  f4  was  held  heie  on  April  13tliy  1660,  the  actual  bnrniiig  takit)^ 
place  (as  msual)  on  the  Quemadcfra  at  Tahlada  (oomp.  p.  93).         .  > 

The  ^Gaia  de  Ayvntamiento  (PK  £,  4)  or  Caaat  CapituLares 
(City  Hall)^  ai  handsome  Renaissance  ediflce^  erected  abottt  1526''64: 
from  the  designs  tit  Diego  de  Riano  and  restored  in  1891,  occupies 
tlie  whole  of  the  "W.  side  of  the  plaza.  The  other  and  more  modem 
facade  is  turned  towards  the  Plaza  de  San  Fernando  (see  below). 
The  S,p.  part  of  the  building  is  very  ornate  and  justly  passes  as 
one  of  the  most  cha;rmipg  creations  of  the  plateresque  style.  The 
modern  additions,  easily  recognizable  as  such,  are  far  inferior. 

I^TEaiOB  (adm.^  see  p.  391;  main  entrance  on  the  E.).  The  ScUa  Ga^ 
pituiar  hav  a  handsome  marble  floor,  and  the  Sola  de  8trione»  hae  a  magnl* 
fiee&t  yaulM  ceiling,  the  80  fields  of  which  each  contain  the  ttatue  of  a 
Spaniab  king.  Above  are  reliefs  of  St.  Ferdinand,  the  Archbishops  Lean- 
der  and  Isidore,  the  cardinal  virtues,  and  other  subjects.  Round  the  frieze 
runs  a  Latin  inscription,  from  Sallnst.  In  the  dt'M('o<«ca  Mtmieipal  is  pre- 
served the  town  banner  (15th  cent ),  adorned  with  a  Bgure  of  St,  Ferdi- 
nand on  his  throne.  —  The  handsome  modern  staircase  and  the  carved 
doors  also  deserve  attention. 

The  Andiencia  (PI.  E,  3),  or  Court  of  Justice^  contains  a  vesti- 
bule with  marble  columns,  a  fine  patio,  and  three  handsomely  decor- 
ated rooms :  the  Sola  de  Inpicrnoy  8ala  de  Ferano,. and  Sala  de  Abo- 
gados  (advocates).  The  executions  (^celehrar  lae  juiticios^)  took 
place  by  a  marble  pillar  outside,  adjoining  one  of  the  windOwS. '. 

The  Plaza  da  San  Pemando  (PI.  E,  4;  once  callecl  the  Tla%a 
Nueva)j  165  yds.  long  and  100  yds.  wide,  occupies  the  site  of  the 
old  Franciscan  convent  and  is  the  largest  square  in  Seville.  It  is 
surrounded  by  lofty  modern  buildings  and  is  thickly  sprinkled  witii 
orange-trees,  date-palmis,  marble  benches,  and  the  booths  of  the 
'Aguadores'.  A  band  often  plays  here  on  summer-evenings,  and  In 
winter  it  is  the  focus  of  the  festivities  of  iEe  three  last  and  great 
days  of  the  Carnival.    At  other  times  it  is  almost  deserted. 

The  Franciscan  convent  that  once  stood  here  contained  the  famous 
statae  of  Comemktdor  UlUnt^  which  plays  so  striking  a  r61e  in  the  ^Don 
Juan  TenvrW  of  Oatmel  TelUx  <'Tir80  de  Molina';  1072-1643),  and  in 
Uotmrii  well-known  opera  (1787). 

The  *CaIiLb  pb  las  Siebpbs  (PI.  D,  E,  3,  4),  the  narrow  but 
extremely  animated  street  running  to  the  N.  from  the  Plaza  de  la 
Oonfitituci6n,  is  so  named  from  the  ^serpents'  on  the  sigtf  of  a  mesdn 
or  tavern.  It  contains  the  best  shops,  caf^s,  and  clubs  of  Seville, 
and  it  is  also  the  favourite  evening-promenade,  though  carriages 
are  not  admitted.-—  Its  prolongation,  the  equally  narrow  Calle  de 
Amor  de  Pios,  leads  to  the  Alameda  de  Bireules  (p.  413). 

The  Oailo  de  G  alleges  leads  to  the  E.  fix>m  the  Calle  de  las  Sier- 
pes  to  8an  Salvador;  other  side-streets  lead'  to  the  Oasa  de  Exposi^ 
tos  (p.  412)  and  the  University  (p.  411).  Thel  church  of  Ban  Salva- 
dor (Pi  D,  E,  3),  a  haifoque  building  of  1774^92,  ocoupiesrthe  site  of 
a  moi^que.  It  has  a  fine  dome,  stained-glat^s  windows,  and  riclly 
gilded  altars.  By  the  first  altar  to  the  right  Is  an  Eccef  Horn©'' by 
MariOo  Q);  toy  the  second  to  the  right  is  a  fine  statue  of  Christ/  b 


4i0  B6uie  43,  SEVILLE.  Caaa  dt  Pil<Uo8. 

McmiuniM.  In  tlie  eourt  to  the  N.  of  the  chiiroh  is  a  chapel  with  the 
Cristo  de  los  Deaamparados  (p.  259),  a  wonder-working  crucifix.  An 
Arahic  inscription,  refening  to  the  old  minaret,  ia  immnred  in  the 
lower  part  of  the  Tower,  which  is  partly  in  the  Gothic  style. 

About  aOO  yds.  to  the  S.E.  lies  the  church  of  Ban  Isidoro  (Fl.  £,  3), 
containing  ^El  Transito  de  San  Isidore'  (<.«.  death  of  the  saint),  a  cel- 
ebrated masterpiece  by  Roelat,  which  Murillo  studied  carefully. 

About  Y4  M.  to  the  E.  of  San  Salvador,  at  the  end  of  the  Calle 
de  Aguilas  (with  several  fine  patios],   lies   the  Plaza  de  Pilatos. 
Here  stands  the  so-called  *Casa  de  Pilatos  (PI.  E,  2;  adm.,  see 
p.  391),  formerly  the  property  of  the  Dukes  of  Alcald  and  now  that 
of  the  Duke  of  MedincteeU,   This  interesting  edifice  seems  to  have 
been  begun  by  Morlsco  architects  for  Don  Pedro  Enriquet  de  RU>era 
at  the  beginning  of  the  16th  cent  and  was  completed  under  his  de- 
scendants, Don  Fadrique  Enriquta  de  Bibera  (d.  1535)  and  Don  Per 
Afan  de  Ribera  (d.  1571).    The  last  adorned  it  with  the  antiquities 
and  paintings  he  had  collected  while  Viceroy  of  Naples.  Don  Fa- 
drique had  made  a  journey  to  the  Holy  Land,  and  this  gave  rise  to 
the  popular  name  of  the  house,  the  people  believing  it  to  "be  an  inii- 
t^tion  of  the  house  of  Pilate  at  Jerusalem.   Moreover,  it  was  con- 
nected with  the  Cruz  del  Campo  (p.  419)  by  a  'Route  de  Calvaire'. 
Don  Fernando  Enriquez  de  Bibera^  the  third  Duke  of  Alcala,  estab- 
lished the  once  famous  library  of  this  palace  and  added  considerably 
to  the  collection  of  antiquities.    He  also  made  his  house  the  social 
centre  of  Seville,  and  numbered  men  like  Oispedes,  the  Herreras, 
Oongora,  Bioja,  and  Cervantes  among  his  guests.   During  the  poli- 
tical upheaval  of  1843  the  palace  was  converted  into  a  powder- 
magazine  and  was  much  damaged  by  the  bombardment  of  Espar- 
tero's  troops.  —  The  style  of  the  architecture,  called  by  Rafael  Con- 
treras  Ul  hdroco  de  drdbe\  shows   a  curious  and  yet  harmonious 
combination  of  Moorish,  Gothic,  and  Renaissance  elements.    Most 
of  the  rooms  are  elaborately  adorned  with  the  finest  azulejos. 

A  rich  marble  portal  leads  into  the  Pa<to,  which  is  suxroanded  by  a 
double  arcade  supported  by  25  marble  columns.  In  the  middle  is  a  foun- 
tain with  dolphins  and  a  head  of  Janus.  Round  the  sides  are  pieces  of 
ancient  sculpture,  including  a  statue  of  Cere.«i,  two  of  Athena,  and  24  busts, 
mostly  much  dilapidated,  of  celebrated  men  of  antiquity.  Over  the  en- 
trance Is  a  bust  of  Charles  V.  To  the  right  of  the  patio  is  the  so-cailei 
Prctetorium  of  Pilate,  with  the  Apostles'  Creed  on  the  doors.  At  the  back 
of  the  court  are  a  vestibule,  with  superb  azulejos,  and  the  Cfunpel^  a 
charming  room  with  Gotho-Moresque  decoration  and  a  reproduction  of 
the  column  at  which  Christ  wa»  scourged  (the  gift  of  Pope  Pins  V.).  A 
magnificent  staircase,  roofed  by  a  much-admired  dome  (m«(2ta  narcinja)^ 
ascends  to  the  upper  floor,  the  rooms  of  which  (not  all  shown)  have 
generally  been  modernized.  The  most  interesting  are  the  O^dwcM,  with 
ceiling-paintings  of  Daedalus  and  Icarus  by  Fra»ei*co  Pa<A€e&.  —  The  Gar- 
den, containing  antiquities  from  Italica,  is  seldom  shown. 

From  the  Plaza  de  Pilatos  the  Galle  de  Caballerizs(s  (Ne.  2  has 
a  fine  patio)  and  its  prolongation,  the  Galle  DescalzoS}  lead  to  the 
N.W.  to  the  attractive  PLAZAiDB  AboObllbs  (PL  D,  2,  3).  At  the 
N.W.  uigle  of  the  plaza  stands  the  church  of  San  ?edra»  a  Opthic 


Vniveraty.  SEVILLE.  43.  JBoute.  4U 

stractuTe  of  the  i4th  cent.,  on  the  site  of  a  mosque.  ItB  chief  fsatares 
of  interest  are  the  fine  wooden  ceiling,  an  altar  with  paintings  by 
Pedto  Campana,  and  a  picture  by  Roelas  (St.  Peter  fireed  by  the 
angel).  The  tastefVil  campanile  has  galleries  and  open-work  windows. 

Streets  running  to  the  N.  and  N.E.  from  San  Pedro  lead  us  to 
the  church  of  San  Marcos  and  the  Convento  de  Santa  Paula.  On  the 
way,  in  one  of  the  side-streets,  the  Calle  de  Duefias  (Pi.  C,  2,  3),  is 
the  so-called  Caaa  del  Duque  de  Alba,  a  palace  (once  of  great  extent), 
begun  by  the  Pinedas  and  completed  by  the  Riberas  (p.  41G)  about 
1483.   It  shows  the  same  mixture  of  styles  as  the  Casa  de  Pilatos. 

The  church  of  Ban  Marcos  (PI.  C,  2),  a  Gothic  structure  erected 
in  the  14th  cent,  to  replace  a  mosque ,  has  an  interesting  portal  in 
the  Mud^jar  style.  The  ♦Tower,  which  is  quite  Moorish,  was  often 
ascended  by  Cervantes,  to  look  round  for  his  beloved  Isabella. 

The  Convento  de  Santa  Faula  (PI.  Oj  2),  a  Hieronymite  nun* 
nery  established  in  1475,  also  deserves  a  visit.  In  the  fore-court, 
adjoining  (but  not  attached  to)  the  church,  is  a  handsome  Oothic 
*  Portal  y  bearing  the  yoke,  quiver,  and  motto  (*tanto  monta')  of 
the  ^Catholic  Rings'  (pp.  119,  171).  It  is  eharnungly  adorned  with 
reliefs  of  saints  by  Pedto  MUlan  and  terracotta  ornamentation  by 
Francesco  Nteuloso  of  Pisa,  resembling  the  Robbia  work  of  Florence. 
The  Church  ha»  fine  Gothic  vanlting,  and  Its  walls  are  lined  inside 
with  a2ulejos'  of  Triana,  which  are  among  the  best  of  the  16th  cen- 
tury. The  statues  of  8t.  John  the  Evangelist  and  John  the  Baptist, 
at  the  two  altars,  are  ascribed  to  Montaiiia  (p.  lix). 

We  return  to  the  Plaza  de  Ajrguelles  and  proceed  thence  to  the 
W.',  through  the  short  CaUe  d«Imigen,  to  the  spacious  Mereado 

iPl.  D^  S),  formerly  named  the  Plasa  de  la  Encarnaci^n.  At  the 
S.W.)  comer  of  the  market  and.  th^  Calle  de  la  Unlversidad  rises 
the  0nl¥0rtity  (PI.  D,  8),  founded  by  Alfonao  the  Learfud  in  1256 
and  greatly  extended  by  the  'Catholic  Kings'  in  1605.  The  medical 
faculty  has  its  seat  at  Cadiz  (p.  440),  while  Seville  has  to  content 
Itself  with  the  Escuela  de  Medicinaj  founded  in  1888  in  the  secular- 
ized convent  of  the  Madre  de  Dies  (PI.  E,  2).  The  rooms  of  the 
university  contain  many  interesting  pictures  and  busts.  Thus,  in 
'the  Sola  de  Ados  are  half-length  portraits  of  St.  Francis  of  Borja 
and  Ignatius. Loyola  by  Alonso  Cano,  a. St.  Dominic  by  Zurbarany  a 
St.  Jerome  in  the  style  of  Quinten  Matsys^  and  a  Holy  Family 
ascribed  to  Bubens  (f).  ~  The  Unhersity  Library,  founded  in  1838, 
is  iniigniflcant  (adm.,  see  p;  392). 

The  UNrrBBsiTY  Ohuroh  (entered  from  the  quadrangle;  door- 
keeper Ya-l  p.),  built  in  the  Renaissance  style  for  the  Jesuits  by 
Bariolomi  Bwtamante{i)  in  1565-79,  contains  a  large  number  of 
admirable  pictures  and  statues.  The  retablo  of  the  high-altar  in- 
cludes an  Adoration  of  the  Magi  and  a  Presentation  in  the  Temple 
by  Roelas;  an  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds  by  Juan  de  Varela;  a« 
Annunciatidii  by  PoeAeco;  St.  John  the  Evaagelist  and  John  ' 


412   Route  a,  SfiVIXJ^.  Foundling  ffo^tal. 

Baptist  by  Alonto  Cano;  and  statues  of  SS.  Franeis  of  9orj«.  (leftj), 
Ignatius  Loyola  (right),  Petei,  and  Paul  by  Montanes  (the  last  two 
doubtful).  On  the  tabernacle  of  the  high-altar  is  a.  small  Holy 
Child  by  Roehu.  To  the  left  of  the  high-altar  is  the  brass  of 
Franciico  Duarte  de  Mendicoa  (d.  J554)  and  his  wife  CaiaUna  de 
Alcocer.  The  left  transept  contains  an  altar-piece  by  PacJ^o,  and 
the  monument  -of  Lorewo  Suaren  de  Figueroa  (d.  1409),  brought 
from  the  suppressed  Gonvento  de  OabalUros  de  Santiago.  In  the 
right  transept  is  the  tomb  of  Bendio  Arias  Montano  (1627-98; 
p.  115).  In  the  nave  axe  the  monuments  of  Pedro  Enriqutz  de 
Rihera  (d.  1492;  left)  by  Antonio  Apiile,  and  oi  his  wife  Catalina 
de  Riberoy  by  Pace  Gazini  of  Genoa.  On  the  floor  between  them  is 
the  brass  of  Per  Afan  de  Ribera  (p.  410).  There  are  also  numerous 
less  important  monuments  of  rectors ,  scholars ,  and  members  of 
the  ibidem  and  Ponce  de  Leo»  (p.  438)  fainilies>  . 

The  Oalle  de  la  Universidad  ends  on  the  W.  at  the  Callb  db  i.a 
GuNA ,  Nos.  3  and  5  in  which  (both  to  the  left)  have  fine  patios. 
The  first  is  the  Palace  of  the  Marquif  de  MontiUa ,  a  descendant  of 
LorenKO  Poro  or  Lcntrenee  Poore,  a  Scotsman  who  was  the  first  to 
ascend  the  Qiralda  after  the  surrender  of  -Seville  and  shared  iii  the 
Repartimiento  (p.  396).  A  little  farther  on,  also  to  the  left  (No.  13), 
Hes  the  Casa  Provineial  de  Ezpofitos  (PI.  D,  3)«  or  Foundling 
Hospital^  founded  in  1558  and  popularly  known  as  La  Cuna  ('the 
cradle' ;  visitors  generally  admitted,  fee  to  attendant  1  p.).  The 
infants  laid  on  the  't»mo'  are  brought  up  here  till  they  are  six  years 
old,  after  which  they  are  sent  to  the  HospieioPtovinoial  (orphanage 
and  poorhouse)  to  learn  a  trade.  The  axrangenientB  are  interestiiig, 
especially  the  Casa  de  X<a6tfirfici«(^milk<*house').  FiHeen  Mermanm 
(Sisters)  manage  the  institution,  one  of  whom  is  on  constant  duty 
at  the  'tomo',  day  and  night  The  name  of  the  motfaAx  who  leaves 
her  child  here  is  not  demanded. 

■  In  the  N.  part  of  the  town  theve  ase  a  few  other  churchea  of  interest. 
Santa  Iiuoia  (PI.  B,  1),  now  used  as  ..a  storehouse,  has.  a  fine  Gothic  portal 
and  an  ancient  Moorish  minaret.  —  San  Julian  (PI.  B,  1,  2)  has  an  altar 
by  Alejq  Fernandez  (p.  401)  and  •  a  larfee  St.  Christorpher  by  Juan  SaPehez 
de  Castro  (1484).  —  The  rich  Gothic  portal  of  Santa  Karina  (PI.  B,  2) 
exhibits  the  earliest  Christian  seolptnres  in  Seville.  The  tower  and  two 
chapels  in  the  interior  are  relict  of  an  old  mosque^  —  The  church  of 
Omnium  Sancteztim  (PI.  B,  B),  built  by  Peter  the  Orael,  has  a  tower 
adorned  witii  singular  frescoes.  Xa  Ferifi^  the  street  passing  the  W.  side 
of  this  churoh^  is  the  scene  of  a  busy  rag-fair  on  Thursday  (^La  Feria  del 
Jueves'),  especially  towards  its  S.  end.   . 

Between  the  two  former  gates,  the  Puerta  del  Bol  (P!.  B,  C,  1)  and 
the  Pu^'ia  de'Cdrdpba  (PL  B,  1),  and  to  the  N.W;  of  the  lattev.  are  pre- 
served, two  fragments  of  the  ancient  ^Cifiy  WaUt  with  imposing  towers 
and  a  low  breast-work  (barhacaua)  on  the  outside.  The  city-walls  of 
Seville  had  once  a  circmtiferenbe  of  upWards  of  10  M. ,  wfere  piensed  by 
12  gates,  and  were  strengthened  by  166  towers. 

.••To  the X.  of  the  city,  outside  tl^eFiiwia  dela Macarena  (tramway,  see 
p.  388),  which  was  modernized  in  1723,  lies  the  BoBpital  (Jl^l  (PI.  A,  2), 
popularly  known  as  the  Hospital  de  las  Cinco  Lkiffai  (*of  the  five  wouqds 
of  Christ')  or  de  la  8emgre.    It  la  one.  of  the  largest  instittttiqns  of  the 


Santa  data.  SEVILLE;  43,  Route,,  ^l^ 

land  in  Eniop*^  tlte  S.  facade  l^axing  » lenf  tU  of  ISO  yds.  wnd  the  W.  facade 
of  iTOyds.  The  hospital  was  founded  In  1600  by  Fadrique  Enriquet  de 
Bibera  (p.  '410).  in  the  Galle  de  Santiago,  and  wm  transferred  In  1569  to 
the  present  Wlding,  Greeted  by  Mai*tiiii  €Mnm  and  HtiiMn  Ruie,  It  was 
GOBsiderBhly  extended  in  1842.  The  G^UB0B,  with  the  arms  of  the  Riberas 
and  a  relief  of  Caritas  ascribed  to  Pietro  Torrigiani  (?),  contains  eight 
pictures  of  female  saints  by  Zurbaran^  an  Italian  Madonna  of  the  16tli  cent., 
and  two  pictares  ^j  Ro^la*  (Apotheosis  of  St.  Henneaeetld  and  Descent  of 
the  Holy  Ghost),.  —  Further  to  the  "S,  are  th^e  large  Cementen'o  de  San 
Fernando y  used  by  Roman  Catholics,  Jews,  and  Protestants,  and  the 
former  convent  of  San  Jerdnimo ,  with  the  Bn^Wh  Fi'otegiant  Citneiery  anvt 
a  glass-faotory. 

e.  n«  WMtem,  Squill -Wostevn,  and  South -Saateni  Parts  of 
the  City, 

From  the  N.  end  of  the  Calte  de  lasSierpee  (p.  409)  the  Galle 
de  Campana  leads  to  the  Plaza  dbl  DxKKm  Dii  la  Yio«6bia  (PI. 
D,  4;  p.  86),  which  is  planted  with  orange-trees.  In  the  middle 
of  the  plaza  riuses  a  Bronze  Statue  of  Velazquez,  by  Susillo  (1892). 
On  the  S,  side  once  stood  the  large  palace  of  the  Dukes  of  Medina 
Sidania.  The  former  house  of  the  Soliees  (No.  7)  was  the  home  of 
Calderon's  'Mrfdico  de  sn  Honra'.  In  the  honse  of  the  7dlos  (No.  5) 
is  said  to  have  lived  Sancho  Ortiz  de  la  Roetct ,  the  hero  of  Lope 
da  Vega's  tragedy  *La  Estrella  de  Sevilla'.  No.  11,  formerly  the 
Palacio  del  Marquis  de  Pa/omares,.  now  a  house  of  business,  hasr 
fine  patios,  staircases,  and  rooms.  I'he  plaza  itself  was  the  scene  of 
maiiy  tournaments  and  public  festivals,  as  well  as  of  bloody  frays 
between  the  hostile  families  of  Medina  Sid'onia  and  Ponce  de  Leofi. 

The  Cdlle  de  Amor  de  Dios,  forming  a  prolongation  of  theCalle 
de  las  Sierpes,  and  the  Calle  de  Trajano,  the  parallel  street  to  the 
W.,  beginning  at  the  Plaza  del  Duque  de  la  Victoria,  end  to  the  N.- 
iTi  the  shady  but  little  frequented  Aluneda  do  Hdtoniea  (PI.  B,  3). 
At  the  S.  end  of  thii^  promenade  are  two  high  Roman  Qranite  CoU' 
umns  (eomp.  p.  401),  placed  here  in  1574  and  bearing  statues  of  Her* 
cules  and  Julius  CsBsar.  The  Monuments  at  the  N.  eiid  are  modern 
and  devoid  of  interest.  The  so-called  'Velada^  (p.  391)  are  cel- 
ebrated In  this  alameda. 

In  the  Gallb  db  Santa  Clara  (No.  32),  to  the  W.  of  the  Ala^ 
meda,  lies  tbe  nunnery  of  Santa  Clara  (PI.  B,  4),  founded  by  St. 
Ferdinand  and  modernized  in  the  16-1 7th  centuries.  It  contains 
some  good  sculptures  by  Martinez  Montan^s  (p.  lii).  The  *Torre 
de  DonFadrique^  a  late-Romanesque  (1262)  structure  in  the  convent 
garden,  belonged  to  the  palace  of  Fadriqne,  brother  of  Alfonso  X. 

The  large  gate  at  the  N.  end  of  this  street  belongs  to  the  nunnery 
of  Ban  Clemento  el  Boal  (PI.  A,  4)^  also  founded  by  St.  Ferdinand 
and  largely  rebuilt  in  1770'-71.  It  rose  over  the  ruins  of  the  Fi6- 
Ragel(mb  ar-Radjul?),  the  former  residence  of  the  Benl  'Abbad 
(p.  395).  The  church ,  with  Its  beautifal  artesonado  celling  and 
exquisite  azulejos  of  1588,  Goutains  itatues  of  SS.-  Bernard  and 
Benedict  ascribed  to  Montan^s  (at  the  high-altar),  a  statue  of  Johr 


414  Route  43.  SEVILLE.  Museo  PrOvindiidt 

the  Baptist  ascribed  to  Oaspar  Nunez  DdgadOy  and  the  unpretending 
mural  monument  of  Maria  of  Portugal ,  wife  of  Alfonso  XI. 

Opposite  the  S.  end  of  the  Oalle  de  Santa  Clara  Ilea  the  church 
of  fan  Lorenzo  (PI.  B,  C,  4),  containing  several  good  work*  of  art. 
Among  these  are  an  Assumption  hy  Paeheeo;  a  Holy  Family  by 
Pedto  ViUeffos  MofnwUjo  (16^0-97),  who  is  buried  here;  a  statue 
of  St,  Lawrence  (1639)  and  four  reliefs  by  MontanSs  (at  the  high- 
altar),  and  a  figure  of  Our  Lord,  hnown  as  Nuestro  Seflor  del  Gran 
Poder,  by  the  same.  In  the  choir  is  an  old  marble  dgure  of  the 
Yirgen  del  Carmen  (14th  cent.);  and  adjacent,  on  the  N.  wall,  is  an 
old  mural  painting  of  Nuestra  Sefiora  de  Roeamadoc  (p^  Ixii),  -^ 
From  the  Plaza  de  San  Lorenso  the  Calle  de  Capuchinas  runs  to 
the  S.  to  the  pretty  Plaba  db  Gatidu  (PI.  C,  4),  with  its  Statue 
of  Luis  Daoi%  (p.  94)  byi^uBiUo. 


As  a  starting-point  for  our  walk  through  the  S.W.  quarters  of 
the  town  we  may  select  the  small  Plaza  dbl  Pacifioo  (PI.  D,  4), 
with  its  orange- trees  and  large  hotels  (see  p.  387).  From  the  S.W. 
angle  of  the  plaza  we  follow  the  Calle  de  San  Pablo  (which  ends  at 
the  Triana  bridge,  p.  420)  as  far  as  the  church  of  Santa  Magdalena 
and  then  turn  to  the  right  into  the  Calle  de  Bailen.  From  this  In 
turn  we  again  diverge  to  the  right,  a  little  farther  on,  and  follow 
the  Calle  de  Miguel  de  Carvajal  to  the  Plaza  dbl  Musbo  (PI,  D,  5), 
in  the  middle  of  which  stands  a  Bronze  Statue  of  Mwrillo  by  Sabiuo 
Medinia,  cast  at  Paris  by  Eck  &  Durand  (1864).  On  the  N.  side  of 
this  plaza,  at  the  corner  of  the  Calle  de  San  Vicente,  lies  the  Eng- 
lUh  Church  (see  p.  389).   On  the  W.  side  stands  the  Museum. 

The  *]IttMO  PrOTincial  occupies  the  old  Convento  de  la  Mereed^ 
founded  by  St.  Fezdinand  in  1249.  It  includee  the  Academia  de 
Bellas  Artes  (established  1849),  the  Museo  Arqueoldgieo  (established 
1867),  and  the  Beture  Gallery.   Adm.,  see  p.  391. 

The  museum  originated  in  the  storm  that  raged  over  the  con- 
vents in  1835,  when  Dean  Manuel  L6pez  Cepero  contrived  to  collect 
the  best  conventual  paintings  under  the  protection  of  the  Cathedral 
Chapter.  The  archsological  treasures  were  almost  all  dug  up  at 
Italica  (p.  421).  Both  collections  are  smalL  The  picture-gallery 
contains  only  about  200  paintings,  but  23  of  these  are  by  Murillo, 
including  some  of  his  most  celebrated  works.  Several  of  l^e  M urillos 
came  from  the  Capuchin  Convent  (PI.  A,  B,  1),  which  was  destroyed 
in  1835.   There  axe  also  ten  pieces  of  sculpture. 

We  traverse  a  small  patio  and  enter  the  larger  cloisters,  contain- 
ing the  ANTiauiTiBS  (all  marked  with  descriptive  labels;  catalogue 
only  for  the  Roman  Inseriptions).  These  include  fragments  of 
columns,  capitals,  tombstones,  well-heads,  amphorae,  statues,  imper- 
ial busts,  azulejos,  and  Arabic  inscriptions.  From  the  front  wing 
of  the  cloisters  we  pass  to  the  right  into  the  Boom  Qf  the  Comisidn 


HTuseo  Pfovineial.  SEVILLE.  43.  Route.   415 

de  Monumentos  HistSricOB  y  AttC^ticos,  with  a  fine  wooden  ceiling 
and  a  few  portraits  of  artists.   In  front  of  us  is  the  Picture  Oaltery. 

The  *0oiiLHeTiON  op  Piotijkbs  (re- arranged  in  1893;  catalogue 
in  preparation)  is  somewhat  unsatisfactorily  disposed  on  the  walls 
of  the  old  convent-church.  The  Murillos  are  all  in  the  nave.  — 
S.  wall  of  the  Nate.  Montafi£$^  Wooden  figure  of  St.  Bruno ;  ValdSa 
Leal^  1.  Conception,  2.  Assumption,  3.  Temptation  of  St.  Jerome, 
4.  St.  John  leading  the  Maries  to  Mt.  CaWarf,  13.  Betrothal  of  St. 
Catharine,  5.  St.  Jerome  scourged  by  angels ;  •14.  MwiUo^  Concep- 
tion. —  *15.  MuriUOj  Virgin  and  Child,  known  as  the  Virgen  de  la 
ServUleta,  because  the  master  Is  said  to  have  painted  it  for  the  cook 
of  the  Capuchin  monastery  on  a  napkin.  It  is  one  of  the  painter's 
best-kaowft  works.  The  colours  are  so  thinly  laid  on  as  hardly  to 
conceal  the  texture  of  the  linen.  The  manner  in  which  the  white  dra- 
pery is  handled  Is  very  characteristic.  —  Mtirtflo,  16.  St.  Augustine ; 
17.  Conception  (small) ;  18»  St*  PeUx  of  Cantaliclo  with  the  Holy 
Child  (half-figure) ;  19.  SS.  Juste  andRufina  protecting  theGlralda 
in  a  storm;  *20.  Annunciation;  21.  SS.  Leander  and  Bonaventura 
(finely  handled  drapery);  22.  St.  Antony  of  Padua  with  tlie  Holy 
Child*  —  44.  Raekid,  St.  Anna  and  th«  Virgin. 

End  Wall.  *45.  Roelas,  Martyrdom  of  St.  Andrew,  one  of  the 
pal  uteres  masterpieces  (1668-1625);  Herrtra  the  Elder,  46.  St. 
Basil  with  Christ  and  the  Apostles,  51.  St.  Hermenegild;  59.  Pablo 
de  Ciipedes,  Last  Supper. 

N.  Wall  (lower  row).  MuriUo,  23.  PietJi;  24.  JSt.  Peter  Nolasco 
kneeling  before  the  Virgin;  25.  St.  Augustine  and  the  Trinity; 
26.  Conception.  —  ♦♦27.  Muriilo^  St.  Felix  of  Cantaliclo  holding 
the  Holy  Child  in  his  arms,  of  the  best  period  of  the  master  and 
deemed  by  many  authorities  his  greatest  work.  It  is  painted  in  the 
so-called  tftilo  vaporoio,  —  ♦♦28.  MuriUo,  St.  Thomas  of  Vll- 
lanueva  distributing  alms.  In  this  work ,  which  Murillo  himself 
termed  par  excellence  'mi  cuadre*,  the  contrast  between  the  ecstatic 
form  of  the  saint  and  the  commonplace  realism  of  the  beggars  is 
very  finely  indicated.  —  MuriUo ,  ♦QO.  Conception  (large) ;  ♦30. 
Adoration  of  the  Shepherds;  ♦Si.  The  crucified  Saviour  embracing 
St.  Francis ;  ♦32.  St.  Antony  with  the  Holy  Child ;  33.  St.  Augus- 
tine on  his  knees  before  the. Virgin  and  Child ;  34.  John  the  Baptist^, 
35.  Joseph  and  the  Infant  Jesus;  36.  Virgin  and  Child.  —N,  Wall 
(upper  row).  60,  61,  76.  Francitco  Pacheco,  Legend  of  St.  Peter 
Nolasco ;  Juan  del  Castillo ,  77.  Visitation ,  78.  Adoration  of  the 
Magi,  79.  Assumption,  80.  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds,  81.  Annun- 
ciation. At  the  corner:  ♦P.  Torrigiani  (see  below).  Virgin  and 
Child,  a  group  in  terracotta. 

In  the  transepts  are  also  a  few  modern  pictures.  N.  Transept. 
♦Af.  Ramirez i  Execution  of  Alvaro  de  Luna  (p.  137);  Alcataf 
Tejedor,  The  First  Mass  (1887);  116.  Martin  de  Vos,  Last  Judg  - 
ment;  121.  Zvrbaran;  La  Virgen  de  las  Cuevas,  with  Carthusif 


416  Route  43,  SEVILLE.  Mmeo  PravmciaL 

monks  (p.  Ixxii).  — >  **PUlro  Torrigiani^  Statue  of  St,.  Jerome, 
fwm  the  Hieronyipite  Convent  (p.  413),  modelled  in  teiracotta 
(harro  cocido)  and  oolouied.  This  is  one  of  the  masterpieces  of  the 
gifted  Floxentine  (h.  1470),  who  hroke  Michael  Angelo's  nose  when 
they  were  fellow-students,  executed  the  splendid  mon^unent  of 
Henry  VII.  in  Westminster  Ahbey\  yiaited  Granada  in. the  h^ope 
of  a  similar  commission  (see  p^  ^0),  and  Anally  died  at -Seville 
(1522)  in  the  dungeons  of  the  laqudsition.  The  saint,  kneeling  «nd 
half-naked,  gMes  with  deep^et  eyes  at  the  cruoifl^.  in  his  left 
h«nd,  while  he  beats  his  hieast  with  a  stone  held  in  the  other. 
The  fine  play  of  the  mi^soles  in^  the  emaciated  yet  powietfnl  hody, 
^nd  the  profoundly,  thoughtful  expression  of  the  head  air^  delineated 
in  a  most  masterly  fashion. — SoliSy  Figures  of  Justice  a^dPrndence. 

S.  Transept.  VirgUiQ Mattoni^  De^th.of  St.  Ferdinand;  139.  Zur- 
i)ar(fny  St.  Hugo  witii  Carthusian  monks  (elMUagrd  del  aanto  voio); 
FruXet^  Virgin  and  Child,  Descent  from  the:  Cross ;  Som,  Statues  (rf 
Courage  and  Temperance  j  •JVToniflw^ff,  Wooden  figure  of  St.  Dom- 
inie, one  of  th«. sculptor's  paaster pieces. 

Choir.  Zufharan,  123.  Holy  Child  malting  a  crown  at  thorns; 
124.  Crucifixion;  125.  Christ  crowning  St.  Joseph;  126.  St.  Panzoiu 
, —  *127.  Zurbaran,  Apotheosis  of  St.  Thomas  Aquinas,  one  of  the 
.chief  works  of  this  fertile  master.  At  the  top  are  Christ,  the  Ma* 
donna,  St.  Paul,  andStiPomitiic;  towards  the  middlOftfe  St.  Thomas 
and  the  four  Latin  Church  Fathers;  below  are  Charles  V.  andAtchbp. 
Deza.  The  head  behind  the  emperor  is  believed  to  be  a  portrait  of 
Zurbaran.  The  picture  we*  taken  by  the  French  from  the  Oolegio 
de  Santo  Tomas,  but  was  afterwards  sent  back  from  Pari^.  —  Zur^ 
haran,  128.  St.  Louis  Beltram ;  135.  St.  Bruno  befbre  the  Pope; 
137.  God  the  Father;  129,  133.  Crucidxion;  130.  St.  Francis. 
*Montan48y  Wooden  flgnxes  *af  the  Virgin  and  Child  (La  Virgen  de 
las  Cuevas)  and  John  the  Baptist. 

Old  Sscristy,  adjoining  the  S.  Transept.  14^.  ilZonso  Canot 
Purgatory;  150.  Fi^mUhSchooly  Vieil. 

By  following  t^e  Caixe  db  Ai.»>N8o  Doob  (PI.  D,  5 ;  fine  patio 
at  No.  17)  towards  the  W.  from  the  Plaza  del  Museo,  we  soon  reach 
the  site  of  the  Puerta  Real,  the  Ooles  Qate  of  the  Moors,  by  which 
St.  Ferdinand  entered  the  city  in  1248.  Here  we  have  a  view  of 
the  Babida  Peombnadb  (PI.  D,  E,  5)  lind  the  EaiaeiSn  de  Cdrdoba 
(p.  387),  beyond  which  rolls  the  QuadAlquivir ;  crossed  by  the 
Huelva  Railway  Bridge  (1879)  and  a  new  bridge  leading  to  Triana 
and  La  Cartuja  (pi  420)* 

TbiQ  Barrio  de  lot  Humero*  (PI.  C,  B,  5)  was  formerly  oticupi^d  en- 
tirely by  gipsies.  Those  who  care  to  follow  the  neglected  promenade 
along  the  railway  to  the  suburb  of  Macarena  (p.  39B)  may  still  stumble 
on  many  a  figure  that  looks  if  it  bad  stepped  out  of  the  ^Rineonete  y 
Cortadillo'  of  Oervantes  or  one.  of  the  canvases  of  Murillo.  A  fia.e  viaw 
is  enjoyed  of  the  unpccupied.  right  bank  of  the  river  and  the  hills  above  it. 

We  follow  the  Rabida  towi^rds  the  S.E.  and  turn  to  the  right 


Ho«p.  d.  I.  CaHdad.  SEVILLT!.  43.  Route,   417 

into  the  Oalle  de  los  Reyes  Gatolicos,  the  prolongation  of  the  Galle  de 
San  Pablo  (p.  414).  This  brings  us  to  the  Marina  (PI.  E;  F,  4,  5), 
with  the  harbour.  —  To  the  left  rises  the  large  Frison  (Cdrcel; 
PI.  E,  5),  with  its  azulejos  and  grated  windows,  which  often  appears 
in  the  picaresque  tales  and  dramas  of  Spain.  Farther  on  is  the 
huge  Plaza  de  Toros  (PI.  F,  4,  5;  p.  389),  and  still  farther  on  is 
the  Plaza  de  Atarazanas  (PI.  F,  4) ,  occupying  the  site  of  the 
Moorish  wharf  and  adjoined  by  the  Hospital  de  la  Caridad ,  the 
Ma^tranza  or  Artillery  Arsenal^  and  the  Aduana. 

The  ^Hospital  de  la  Caridad  (PI.  F,  4;  adm. ,  see  p.  391; 
church  worth  visiting  In  bright  weather  only,  best  light  in  the  after- 
noon) is  now  an  infirmary  under  the  care  of  Sisters  of  Charity.  The 
original  building  (1698)  on  the  site  was  the  church  of  St  George, 
belonging  to  the  still  extant  Hermandad  de  la  Caridad,  the  special 
function  of  which  was  to  administer  the  last  services  to  those  con- 
demned to  death  and  to  provide  for  their  burial.  Miguel  de  Manara, 
a  Sevillian  Don  Juan  in  his  youth ,  but  afterwards  converted  and  a 
friend  of  Murillo ,  had  the  church  rebuilt  by  Pineda  in  the  baroque 
style  (1661)  and  erected  the  hospital.  He  then  withdrew  to  his 
foundation  and  was  finally  buried  here  at  his  death  (1679).  His 
tomb  in  the  church  is  inscribed  ^^enizas  del  peor  hombre  que  ha 
habido  en  el  mundo'  ('the  ashes  of  the  worst  man  in  the  world'). 
Glazed  frames  in  the  8aJ>a  de  CahUdo  contain  MaSlara's  and  Mu- 
rillo's  autograph-requests  to  be  admitted  to  the  Brotherhood ,  the 
sword  and  death-mask  of  the  former,  and  portraits  of  the  Hermanos 
Mayores  ('Elder  Brethren').  The  facade  of  the  Caridad  is  adorned 
with  fayence  mosaics  from  designs  by  Murillo.  —  The  two  handsome 
Patios  contain  marble  statues  of  Misericordia  and  Caritas. 

From  the  first  court  we  pass  through  a  small  door  to  the  left  into  the 
Church,  which,  in  itself  of  no  interest,  contains  six  celebrated  **Piotube8 
BY  MuBiLLO,  painted  for  the  Caridad  in  1660-74.  On  the  side-wall  to  the 
left  is  the  Cuadro  de  Ins  Aguas,  known  as  La  8ed  (^Thirst").  Below  this 
is  the  Jn/ant  Saviour,  Farther  on  are  the  Annunciation  and  8an  Juan  de 
Dios  aided  by  an  angel  in  bearing  a  sick  man  into  the  hospital.  On  the 
right  side  hang  the  large  picture  of  Christ  feeding  the  Five  Thousand^  known 
as  Pan  y  Feces,  and  the  Young  John  the  Baptist.  The  two  large  works  are 
hung  high  and  very  properly,  as  their  sketchy  and  hroad  treatment  is 
calculated  for  being  seen  from  a  distance.  The  composition  of  the  'Thirst' 
is  masterly  and  shows  that  Hurillo  in  this  respect  also  is  on  the  highest 
level  of  his  art^  Hoses  stands  beside  the  rock,  from  which  the  water 
gushes,  while  the  parched  crowd  hastens  eagerly  to  partake.  In  the 
MLioaves  and  Fishes'*  the  landscape  is  treated  with  much  more  respect  than 
is  the  wont  of  Sevillian  masters.  'La  Sed'  is  widely  known  through 
Esteve^s  engraving  (1839).    The  Laurent  photographs  are  good. 

At  the  W.  end  of  the  church  are  some  singular  paintings  by  Juan 
Valdis  Leal  (1630-91) ,  bom  at  Cordova  and  one  of  the  founders  of  the  Art 
Academy  of  Seville  (p.  414).  Above  the  choir  is  the  Raising  of  the  Cross. 
On  the  wall  to  the  right  is  the  Triumph  of  Death ,  with  the  inscription 
'tn  ietu  oeulC,  To  the  left  are  the  Dead  Bodies  of  a  Bishop  and  a  Knight 
of  Calatrava,  with  the  inscription  ^Finis  gloria  mundC,  All  three  are 
painted  with  the  most  repulsive  realism,  but  at  the  same  time  with 
astonishing  brilliancy  of  colouring.  In  looking  at  the  dead  prelate,  MuriP 
is  reported  to  have  said  'Leal,  you  make  me  hold  my  nose' ,    wherf 

Baedeker's  Spain.  27 


AiS  Route  43.  SEVILLE.  Pal  de  Santelmo. 

Le»l  retorted,  ^Well,  you  have  taken  all  the  fleah  aod  left  me  nothing  bat 
the  bone«\ 

The  high-altar  to  the  E.  haa  a  relief  of  the  Deposition  in  the  Tomb, 
by  Pedro  Roldan. 

On  the  brink  of  the  Quadaiqaivlr ,  at  the  S.  comeT  of  the  Plaza 
de  Atarazanas ,  rises  the  Torre  del  Oro  (PI.  G,  4),  originally  one 
of  the  towers  of  the  Moorish  Alcazar  (p.  397)  and  afterwards  used 
by  Pedro  the  Crael  as  a  treasure-house  and  prison.  It  is  now  the 
CapitanCa  del  Puerto.  The  dodecagon al  and  embattled  lower  sec- 
tion was  erected  by  Oovemor  Std  Abu'l-Ald  in  1220,  under  the 
Almohades.  The  upper  section  dates  from  the  Christian  period, 
and  the  balconied  windows  were  not  inserted  till  1760.  The  Moors 
named  it  Burdj  ad-Dhdhab,  or  golden  tower,  from  the  colour  of  its 
azulejos  and  in  contradistinction  to  the  silyer  tower  (Torre  de  la 
Plata)  in  the  neighbouring  Galle  de  Ataranzas  (taken  down  in  1821). 
Most  of  the  sea-going  vessels  anchor  off  the  Torre  del  Oro. 

To  the  S.E.  lies  the  ^Taseo  de  Cristina  (PI.  G,  3,  4),  a  prom- 
enade much  frequented  on  cool  summer-eyenings.  Like  the  De- 
licias  (see  below) ,  it  was  laid  out  in  1830  by  Josi  Manuel  Arjona. 
On  the  opposite  side  of  the  Paseo  de  Santelmo  (see  below)  are  the 
Jardines  de  la  Piierta  de  Jerez,  with  the  Teatro  de  Eslava,  The 
gate  itself  has  been  taken  down. 

In  the  Paseo  db  Santelmo,  skirting  the  S.E.  side  of  the  Paseo 
de  Oristina,  stands  the  Falacio  de  Santelmo  (St.  Elmo;  Pi.  G,  3 ; 
adm.,  see  p.  391 ;  entr.  on  theN.E.  side),  originally  erected  by  An- 
tonio Rodriguez  in  1734  as  a  naval  academy.  In  1849  it  became  the 
property  of  the  Due  de  Montpensier  (d.  1890),  son  of  Louis  Philippe 
and  brother-in-law  of  Isabella  II.,  and  afterwards  of  his  widow, 
the  Infanta  Maria  Luisa  (d.  1897).  The  palace  has  no  architectural 
interest  beyond  the  lofty  baroque  portal  on  the  N.W.  front,  but  it 
should  be  visited  for  its  sumptuous  internal  equipment.  Most  of 
its  celebrated  treasures  of  art  have  lately  been  removed  to  San  lA- 
car  de  Barrameda  (p.  426).  The  Jardin  del  Paletcio  de  Santelmo 
(PI.  H,  3)  has  beautiful  trees,  grottoes ,  and  ornamental  plants.  At 
its  S.E.  end  are  statues  of  twelve  famous  Sevillians  by  Susillo. 

The  larger  half  of  the  Santelmo  Gardens  was  presented  to  the 
city  by  the  Infanta  Maria  Luisa  in  1893,  and  now,  under  the  name 
of  the  *Farque  Maria  Luisa  (PI.  H,  2,  3),  forms  one  of  the  most 
popular  public  resorts,  especially  in  spring.  Its  roses ,  camellias, 
and  oranges  make  a  splendid  show.  —  The  "^Faseo  de  las  Delicias 
(PI.  H,  3).,  beginning  at  the  Fuente  de  AbarUco  (*fan  fountain'), 
descends  along  the  river  to  the  S.  W.  of  the  park.  This  promenade, 
which  is  always  frequented  on  flue  afternoons  by  numerous  carriages 
and  pedestrians,  ends  to  the  S.E.  in  a  ^rondel',  with  the  Villa 
Eugenia  and  the  Recreo  del  Paraiso  (p.  388).  A  little  to  the  left  is 
the  *Eritana  Restaurant,  with  a  pleasant  garden.  Beyond  the  rondel, 
and  close  to  the  river,  are  the  Hipddromo  (p.  390),  the  Cycling  Track, 
\d  the  Tiro  de  Pichones  (for  pigeon-shooting). 


Ftibr.  de  Tahacoa,  SEVILLE.  43.  Route,  419 

We  rettini  towards  the  town  by  the  aveiiue  of  palms  between 
the  Santelmo  Gardens  and  the  Parqne  Maria  Luisa.  To  the  right 
extends  the  Prado  de  San  Sebastian  (PL  G,  1,  2),  the  scene  of  the 
Feria  (p.  391),  and  beyond  it  is  the  Estacidn  de  Cadiz  (p.  387); 
to  the  left  are  the  Artillery  Barr€iek8^  built  on  to  the  Tobacco  Factory. 
The  F&brica  de  Tab4co8  (PL  G,  3 ;  adm. ,  see  p.  391 ;  entr.  by 
the  large  gate  in  the  Calle  de  San  Fernando)  is  an  immense,  two- 
storied  baroque  building,  erected  by  Wandeniburg  in  1767  at  a  cost 
of  9,000,000  p.  It  encloses  several  courts  and  its  sides  are  re- 
spectlYely  200  yds.  and  160  yds.  long,  so  that  it  coyers  more  ground 
than  the  Cathedral  and  the  Court  of  Oranges.  It  is ,  however ,  only 
55  ft.  high.  On  the  portal  are  busts  of  Columbus  and  Fernando 
Cortes  and  several  reliefs ;  at  the  top  is  a  figure  of  Fame.  About 
5000  Cigarreras  are  engaged  here  in  the  manufacture  of  tobacco 
and  snuflf  (polvo  de  Stvilla;  tahaeo  de  fraile);  and  a  skilful  worker 
can  easily  finish  8-10  atados,  or  bundles  of  50  cigars,  daily.  The 
work-rooms  are  very  badly  ventilated ,  and  no  one  should  visit  the 
factory  for  pleasure  unless  he  can  Ignore  dirt  and  evil  smells. 

We  now  follow  the  Pasbo  del  Pino  (Pi.  G,fF,  2),  at  the  end 
of  which,  to  the  right,  are  the  large  Cuartel  de  Cahallerta  (cavalry 
barracks)  and  the  Matadero ,  or  Public  Slaughter  House.  The  road 
diverging  to  the  right,  between  these  two  buildings,  leads  to  the 
busy  Barrio  de  Seen  Bernardo ,  where  there  is  a  large  FundiciiSn  de 
ArtillerCa  (PL  F,  1),  or  cannon-foundry. 

There  is  no  object  in  farther  following  the  somewhat  neglected 
promenade,  which  follows  the  line  of  the  old  city- wall  (p.  412). 
In  the  Paseo  de  Recared  is  the  Presidio  or  Penitentiary  (PI.  E,  1), 
in  the  buildings  of  an  old  Augustine  monastery,  the  church  of 
which  contains  tombs  of  the  Ponce  de  Leon  family  (p.  433). 

The  Calle  de  Oriente  (PI.  E,  1)  leads  across  the  Tagarete  and  the  rail- 
way to  the  Oruz  del  Campo.  a  ^humilladero'  or  chapel  in  the  form  of  a 
small  temple ,  erected  in  1482.  It  is  the  goal  of  the  *Roate  de  Galvaire' 
mentioned  at  p.  410.  Here,  too,  are  seen  the  long  *C<Mot  de  Cfarrnwma,  the 
ancient  Roman  aqnednet,  enlarged  by  the  Almohades  in  1172.  Like  the 
new  conduit,  constructed  hy  an  English  company  in  1886,  this  aqueduct 
supplies  Seville  with  water  from  a  brook  near  AlcaU  de  Guadaira  (p.  422). 

If  we  turn  towards  the  town  at  the  Cavalry  Barracks  (see  above), 
we  at  once  enter  the  Jaderia^  or  former  Jews'  quarter,  one  of  the 
oldest  parts  of  Seville.  The  church  of  Santa  Mabia  la  Blanca 
(PI.  E,  F,  2)  was  a  synagogue  down  to  1391  and  was  rebuilt  in  the 
17th  cent,  in  the  baroque  style.  Its  altar-piece  is  a  Piet^  by  Luia 
de  Vargas,  The  left  aisle  contains  a  much  darkened  Last  Supper  by 
MuriUo ,  and  the  right  aisle  has  a  small  Ecce  Homo  by  Morales,  — 
In  this  quarter,  at  No.  7.  Plaza  de  Alfaro  (PL  F,  2),  is  Murillo's 
House  (now  the  property  of  Don  Jacobo  Ldpez  Cepero'),  where  the 
great  painter  died  on  April  3rd ,  1682.  His  room  is  still  shown ; 
and  the  house  also  contains  some  good  paintings  by  MuriUo ,  Mo  - 
rales  J  Ribera,  Zurbaran,  and  other  masters.    The  frescoes  in  th^ 

27* 


420   Soute  43,  SEVILLE.  La  Cartuja. 

garden  are  probably  by  Vergara.  Morillo^s  grave  was  in  the  adja- 
cent ohurch  of  8a$Ua  Cruzj  which  has  been  torn  down;  th^  site  is 
marked  by  a  small  monument. 

d.  Triaaa  and  the  Bight  Bank  of  the  Oaadalqnivir. 

The  Puente  dt  Triana  or  de  Isabel  Segunda  (PI.  F,  5),  an  iron 
bridge  constructed  in  1845-52,  a  little  below  the  site  of  the  ancient 
Moorish  bridge -of -boats,  connects  Seville  with  the  suburb  of 
Triana,  which  lies  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Guadalquivir  and  is 
inhabited  almost  exclusively  by  the  lower  classes  and  gipsies.  Ad- 
joining the  bridge  is  the  Mercado  (PI.  F,  6),  which  affords  a  good 
view  of  Seville.  The  Calle  de  San  Jacinto,  with  the  same  axis  as 
the  bridge ,  intersects  the  suburb  from  N.E.  to  S.W.  It  is  the  ter- 
minus of  the  tramway  mentioned  at  p.  388.  —  By  keeping  to  the 
left,  we  reach  the  church  of  ♦Santa  Ana  (PI.  F,  G,  5),  a  building 
erected  by  Alfonso  the  Learned  in  the  Gothic-Mudijar  style.  The 
retablo  of  the  high-altar  includes  15  paintings  by  Pedro  Campana 
(1548)  and  a  statue  and  reliefs  by  Pedro  Delgado.  The  aisles  con- 
tain other  paintings  by  Campana  and  AUjo  Fernandez ,  and  on  the 
trascoro  is  the  charming  Yirgen  de  la  Rosa  by  the  latter.  Between 
the  Gapilla  de  Santa  Barbara  and  the  Cap.  de  Angustias  is  a  fine 
tomb  by  Francesco  Niculoao  (p.  411). 

Triana,  the  Roman  Trajana  and  the  Moorish  Yarayana^  has  from 
time  immemorial  been  the  potters'  suburb  of  Seville.  According  to 
the  legend  SS.  Justa  and  Ruflna,  who  were  martyred  on  account  of 
their  refusal  to  sacrifice  to  the  Punic  Venus,  kept  a  small  potter's 
shop  here.  The  best  azulejos  in  the  churches  and  palaces  of  Seville 
were  made  at  Triana.  The  last  outpost  of  this  industry  is  now  to 
be  found  a  little  to  the  N.,  in  La  Cartuja  (PI.  B,  6),  a  secularized 
Carthusian  convent  dating  from  1401 .  The  English  firm  of  Pick- 
man  ^  Sons  founded  a  'Fabrica  de  Productos  Ceramicos'  here  in 
1839,  which  provides  the  whole  of  Spain  with  common  porcelain 
(agent  in  Seville,  Calle  de  Madrid  4).  The  factory  contains  a 
good  collection  of  old  Spanish  majolica.  The  Convent  Church  has  a 
fine  Mud^jar  portal.  The  interior  contains  some  remains  of  the 
baroque  silleria  and  a  Visigothic  inscription  relating  to  the  death  of 
St.  Hermenegild  (p.  394),  found  at  Alcala  de  Guadavia.  On  the 
wall  of  the  church  are  marked  the  heights  of  some  of  the  avenidas 
(comp.  p.  393),  from  which  Triana  suffers  still  more  than  Seville. 

The  new  bridge  (PI.  D,  E,^)  is  mentioned  at  p.  414. 


e.  EzcnrBionB  from  Seville. 
1.  To  Italica  (5  M. ;  carr.  8-10  p.,  with  two  horses  15  p., 
bargaining  necessary).    From  the  suburb  of  Triana  we  follow  the 
Aracena  road,  leaving  the  Cartnja  to  our  right.   The  road,  generally 
very  dusty,  runs  towards  the  N.W. 


Excwrsiona.  '     SEVILLE.  43.  Route.   421 

33/4  M.  Bantiponce,  a  poverty-stricken  village,  probably  named 
after  theVisigothic  bishop,  San  Geroneio,  It  contains  the  seoularized 
convent  of  San  Isidobo  del  Oampo,  founded  in  1298  for  the  Cister- 
cians by  Alonao  Perez  de  Otuman  (*E^  Bueno>;  p,  377)  and  handed 
oyer  to  the  Hieronymite  Friars  in  1434.  The  buildings  are  now 
partly  used  as  a  factory.  The  cloisters,  once  famous  for  their  superb 
marble  columns,  have  recently  been  almost  entirely  destroyed.  The 
church  contains  a  fine  rotable  by  MontanSs,  with  statues  of  S.S.  Je- 
rome and  Isidore  and  numerous  reliefs.  The  recumbent  figures  of 
Guzman  £1  Bueno  and  his  wife  Dona  Maria  Alfonso  Coronel,  on 
their  tombs,  are  also  by  Montanea,  Adjacent  is  the  tomb  of  Dona 
Urraca  Os6rio,  mother  of  Juan  de  Albar  de  Guzman,  who  was  burned 
by  order  of  Pedro  the  Cruel.  At  her  feet  rests  her  devoted  waiting- 
woman  Leonora  Dabalo,  who  threw  herself  into  the  flames  that  were 
consuming  her  mistress.  —  At  a  venta,  at  (8/4  M.)  the  end  of  the 
village,  the  road  to  (V2  M.)  Italica  diverges  to  the  left. 

Italica  may  also  be  reached  by  a  short  walk  from  Camas  (p.  428),  on 
the  railway  to  Huelva. 

Italica  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  range  of  hills  sheltering  Seville 
on  the  W.  (see  p.  392),  near  the  Cala,  a  tributary  of  the  Guadal- 
quivir which  perhaps  occupies  the  ancient  bed  of  the  latter  stream. 
Scipio  Africanus  founded  the  town,  on  the  site  of  the  Iberian  Sancton, 
as  a  refnge  for  his  veterans.  *  Scipio  milites  omnes  vulneribus  de- 
biles  in  unam  urbem  compulit,  quam  ab  Italia  Italicam  nominavit*^ 
(Appian).  It  was  at  first  an  independent  municipium,  and  after- 
wards a  colonia  directly  subject  to  Rome.  As  the  birthplace  of  three 
Roman  emperors  (Trajan,  Hadrian,  and  Theodosius)  Claudian  says 
of  it  ^haec  general  qui  cuncta  regenV,  The  place,  named  Tdlika  by 
the  Moors  and  afterwards  Sevilla  la  Vitja^  was  absorbed  by  New 
Seville,  for  which  it  long  served  as  a  quarry. 

The  road  leads  direct  to  the  Roman  Amphitheatre  (fee  to  the 
keeper  1/2-I  P-)-  ^^^  upper  part  of  the  structure  is  very  dilapidated, 
especially  the  tiers  on  the  N.  side  j  but  the  corridors,  the  dens  for  the 
wild  beasts,  and  other  features  can  still  be  made  out.  The  guide  also 
shows  the  niche  which  is  said  to  have  contained  the  statue  of  Julius 
CsBsar  mentioned  at  p.  413.  The  hill  a  little  to  the  N.  commands 
an  extensive  view  of  the  fertile  camplna,  La  Algaba  (p.  392)  and 
the  Sierra  Morena  (N.E.),  the  high-lying  Oarmona(E.),  and  Seville, 
backed  by  the  Sierra  de  Mor6n  (S.E.).  —  A  little  to  the  W.  lies 
the  Casa  de  los  Banos^  with  reservoirs  supplied  by  Hadrian's  Aque- 
duct of  Tejada  (26  M.  long). 

In  Oliv&res  (abont  9  H.  from  Santiponce  and  a  little  nearer  San 
Lucar  la  Mayor,  p.  423)  the  painter  Roelaa  died  in  1626  in  the  office  of 
eanon.  The  church  containa  a  Marriage  Qf  the  Virgin,  a  Nativity,  an 
Adoration  of  the  Magi,  and  a  Death  of  St.  Joseph  by  him,  and  also  a 
figure  of  the  Saviour  by  MonUmit. 

For  CaiUUeJa  de  la  Cuetta,  San  Juan  dt  AtnalfaracMy  and  8an  Mear 
la  Mayor^  flee  p.  428. 

%  Fboh  Sbvul?  to  Carmona,  27  M.,  rail,  in  2  hrs.  (two  trains 


422  Route  43.  SEVILLE. 


aauy ;  ifties  4  p.  ou  c,  a  p.,  i  p.  lo  c. ;  retuin 
75  c).  As  far  as  (91/3  M.)  Aleald  de  Guadaira 
Vj  hr. ;  fares  1  p.  90,  1  p.  30,  80  c;  returi 
oO  0.).    The  trains  start  from  the  Estaeidn  de 


dally ;  fares  4  p.  50  c,  3  p.,  1  p.  76  c. ;  return  6  p.  50,  4  p.  50,  2  p. 

!  Guadaira  four  trains  daily  foa. 
return  3  p.,  2  p.  26,  1  p. 
Cadiz.  —  Carmen*  is 
also  the  terminus  of  the  branch-railway  from  Quadajoz  (p.  304). 

Aleali  do  Ouadaira,  the  chief  intermediate  station,  is  a  to'wn 
of  7300  inhab.,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Quadaira.  It  is  popularly 
known  as  Aleald  de  los  Panadores  (^Bakers'),  because  of  its  200  mills 
(atahonai),  driven  by  water  or  mule-power,  which  supply  Seville 
with  its  bread.  The  decayed  Moorish  CaetUj  taken  by  St.  Ferdinand 
on  Sept.  28th,  1246,  contains  subterranean  grain-magazines  (mas- 
morrae;  p.  267)  and  several  cisterns  (alj&es).  The  Torre  Moeha  was 
added  by  the  Spaniards.  The  small  church  of /San  Miguel  was  origin- 
ally a  mosque.  The  churches  of  San  Sebcutidn  and  Santiago  contain 
paintings  by  Pacheco.  The  altar  of  the  church  of  the  ConverUo  de  laa 
Monjas  has  six  reliefs  by  Montafi^s.  At  the  MoUno  de  la  Mina  begins 
the  old  aqueduct  of  Seville,  the  first  part  of  which  is  underground, 
while  farther  on  it  is  continued  by  the  Cams  de  Carmona  (p.  419). 

Cannona  {El  Beetawantj  Plaza  de  San  Fernando,  unpretend- 
ing), the  Roman  Carmo  and  the  KarmUna  of  the  Moors,  an  ancient 
town  with  15,800  inhab.,  has  been  Spanish  since  Sept.  21  st,  1247, 
but  still  preserves  a  half-Mooiish  character.  It  occupies  the  summit 
of  a  ridge  rising  high  over  the  fertile  vega  to  the  E. ,  watered  by 
the  Corbonesj  and  the  valley  of  the  Guadalquivir  on  the  N.W.  Its 
annual  Feria  (April  22nd)  is  much  frequented.  —  From  the  Seville 
railway-station,  1^2  M.  below  the  town  (omn.  50  c),  we  enter  it  by 
a  massive  Moorish  Gateway.  The  church  of  San  Pedro  has  a  tower 
resembling  the  Giralda  (p.  400).  Adjoining  the  Moorish  patio  of 
the  church  of  Santa  Maria  lies  the  small  Musbum  of  the  Archsolog- 
ical  Society,  including  gigantic  fossil  oysters  and  other  prehistoric 
objects,  and  Roman  and  Moorish  antiquities  (catalogue  60  c). 
Among  the  Roman  remains  are  several  fine  portrait-heads  and 
mosaics  from  the  necropolis  (see  below).  The  loftily  situated  Alcd- 
zar  has  a  beautiful  Moorish  portal.  The  towers  command  a  view  of 
the  whole  plain  of  Andalusia,  extending  on  the  N.  to  the  Sierra 
Morena,  on  the  S.  to  the  Serrania  de  Ronda  (p.  369).  On  the  road 
to  Cordova  there  is  an  interesting  Renaissance  Gate,  the  lower  part 
of  which  dates  from  the  old  Roman  days. 

To  the  W.  of  the  town  lies  the  Roman  *Necsopoi.I8,  discovered  in 
1881  and  explored  mainly  through  the  exertions  of  Mr.  Oeorge  Bontor,  an 
English  painter  (tickets  of  admission ,  1  p.  each ,  obtained  at  Calle  de 
San  Pedro  47,  below  the  Moorish  gate).  The  tombs  are  arranged  in  groups 
over  the  hillside.  The  sepulchral  chambers  are  excavated  In  the  rock 
and  reached  by  vertical  shafts.  All  of  them  contain  niches  for  the  ciner- 
ary urns,  and  many  of  them  seem  to  have  been  connected  with  mausolea 
above  ground.  Some  still  retain  the  cement-ground  for  the  (vanished) 
paintings.  A  few  of  the  tombs  have  large  vestibules,  with  trielinia  for 
the  funereal  banquets.  The  finest  is  the  TricUnio  del  Ele/ante^  named 
'.fter  a  stone  elephant  (a  symbol  of  long  life)  at  the  entrance. 


423 

44.  From  Seville  to  HnelYa*  La  Eabida.  Palos.  Bio 
Tinto  Mines. 

63  M.  Railway  (two  trains  daUy)  in  4-4V2hrs.  (fares  13  p.  95,  10  p.  75, 
6  p.  65  c).    Trains  start  from  the  Ettaei^  de  Cdrdoba  (p.  387). 

Seville,  see  p.  387.  —  The  train  crosses  the  Guadalquivir  by 
an  iron  bridge.  —  li/4  M.  TWana  (p.  420).  —  3  M.  Camas^  which 
is  about  1^4  M.  from  JtaUca  (p.  421),  is  also  the  best  starting- 
point  for  a  visit  to  the  high-lying  Castilleja  de  la  Cuesta,  which 
affords  an  admirable  view  of  Seville. 

Bentdn  CorUt,  bom  at  Medellin  (p.  465)  in  1485,  died  at  Castilleja  on 
Dee.  3nd,  1547.  His  bones  were  first  interred  in  the  Convent  of  San 
Isidore  at  Santiponce  bnt  now  rest  in  Hexieo.  The  house  in  wbieh  he 
died  (No.  66  Galle  Real)  is  now  royal  property  •,  it  contains  some  views 
of  Mexico  and  other  pictures,  and  a  few  twigs  of  the  tree  near  the  City 
of  Mexico  under  which  Cortes  passed  the  ^noche  triste'  (see  Baedeker^t 
United  States).  —  From  Castilleja  we  may  go  on  to  — 

San  Juan  de  Ainalfaraehe  (p.  4S5),  the  Moorish  Hitn  aUFaradJ,  on 
the  Guadalquivir.  Under  the  Romans  as  JvHia  Con^antia,  and  under  the 
Ooths  as  Oa§eij  it  was  the  key  of  the  river.  The  high -lying  convent 
church  of  ^S^  Juan  has  a  font,  which  fills  itself  miraculously  with  water 
in  Passion  Week.    The  village  is  a  favourite  resort  of  the  Sevillians. 

8  M.  Salteras,  the  Roman  Paemla,  is  the  station  for  those  who 
wish  to  take  part  in  the  Romeria  of  Torrijos  (see  p.  391).  —  12  M. 
Villanueva  del  Ariacal.  —  15  M.  San  iMcar  la  Mayor  is  an  attractive 
little  town  in  the  district  called  by  the  ancients  the  'Garden  of  Her- 
cules*. Its  most  interesting  features  are  the  Puerta  del  Sol  and  a 
tiled  Moorish  tower  resembling  the  Giralda  (p.  400).  About  7  M. 
to  the  N.  lies  Olivdres  (p.  421).  —  16  M.  Benacazdn.  At(21V2  M.) 
Asmalcdzar  we  cross  the  Guadiamar,  a  tributary  of  the  Guadal- 
quivir. —  251/2  M.  Huivar;  28 V2  M.  Carridn  de  los  Cespedes;  32  M. 
Escacena;  39  M.  Villalba  del  Alcor;  43  M.  La  Palma  del  Condado, 
in  a  wine-growing  district;  45  V2  ^-  Villarrasa. 

49  M.  Niebla,  the  Roman  /^rpto,  lies  on  the  Rio  Tinto  and  has 
the  remains  of  an  old  castle  and  walls,  as  well  as  some  interesting 
Moorish  houses.  The  narrow-gauge  line  to  the  Rio  Tinto  Mines 
p.  424)  diverges  here.  —  The  railway  now  follows  the  Rio  Tinto  all 
the  way  to  Huelva.  From  (60  M.)  San  Juan  del  Puerto^  at  the  head 
of  the  Tinto  estuary,  a  branch-railway  runs  to  (16^2  M.)  Zalamea. 

68  M.  Huelva.  —  Hotels.  Hotel  Madrid;  Albion  Hotel  (English  land- 
lord) i  Hot.  de  la*  Cuatro  Nacionet;  Fonda  del  Nuevo  Mundo.  —  Oeorffe  WakelWs 
English  Rettanrant. 

British Vice-Oonsul,  E.Diaz,  —  U.  B.  Consnlar  Agent,  JohnR.  Catlin 
(also  Lloyd's  Agent).  —  Dr.  Maeka^if^  English  physician.  —  EngUsh  Church 
Service  in  ihe  Calle  del  Duque  de  la  Victoria. 

Huelva^  the  ancient  Onuha^  a  thriving  town  of  18,000  inhab.,  and 
the  capital  of  a  province  of  its  own  name,  is  favourably  situated  on 
an  inlet  of  the  Gulf  of  Cadiz,  near  the  mouths  of  the  Rio  Tinto  and 
the  OdUl.  Its  inhabitants  are  engaged  in  fishing  and  the  making  of 
esparto  matting,  but  its  prosperity  is  mainly  due  to  the  fact  th»^  ' 
is  the  shipping  port  for  the  ores  of  the  Rio  Tinto  and  Tharsis  ir 


424   Route  44.  HUELVA. 

Wine  ifl  also  exported.  Huelva  is  well-built,  and  its  climate  makes 
it  an  admirable  winter-resort.  The  Roman  Aqueducty  for  centuries  in 
ruins,  has  recently  been  repaired  and  now  supplies  the  town  with 
water.    Two  large  Piers  have  been  constructed  for  the  shipping  trade. 

From  Huelva  an  excursion  may  be  made  by  small  boat  (2-3  hrs.} 
to  La  Rabida  and  Palos.  —  The  Franciscan  convent  of  Santa  Maria 
la  Babida,  said  to  occupy  the  site  of  a  heathen  temple,  stands  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  Rio  Tinto,  overlooking  its  mouth.  Its  main  in- 
terest is  derived  from  its  connection  with  Columbus,  and  it  is  now 
preserved  as  a  national  monument. 

Columbus  seems  to  have  first  visited  the  convent  in  14%,  on  his  first 
arrival  in  Spain,  when  he  was  kindly  received  by  the  young  monk  Frcty 
Antonio  Marchena^  who  listened  eagerly  to  his  schemes  and  undertook  the 
care  of  his  son  Diego.  In  1491  the  disappointed  Columbus  again'  repaired 
to  La  Babida  to  reclaim  his  son  before  setting  sail  for  France.  Fortun- 
ately, however,  Fray  Juan  Perez^  the  prior  of  the  monastery  and  once 
confessor  to  Queen  Isabella  of  Castile,  recognized  the  folly  of  allowing 
Columbus  to  leave  Spain,  set  off  at  once  to  use  his  influence  with  Isabella, 
then  in  the  camp  before  uranada,  and  persuaded  her  to  recall  the  illustrious 
Genoese  and  give  him  another  hearing  at  court  (comp.  p.  331).  —  A 
reproduction  of  the  monastery  of  La  Babida  was  erected  in  1803  at  the 
World's  Fair  of  Chicago,  and  may  still  be  seen  in  that  city,  where  it  is 
now  used  as  a  sanatorium  for  children  and  their  mothers. 

A  row  of  1  hr.  up  the  Rio  Tinto  brings  ua  to  the  small  harbour 
of  Pales  4^  1ft  Frontera,  also  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river.  It  was 
from  this  port  that  Columbus  sailed  on  Aug.  3rd,  1492,  on  his 
voyage  of  discovery  with  his  three  small  vessels ,  the  Santa  Maria, 
the  Pinta,  and  the  Nina,  Here  he  landed  again  on  Mar.  15th,  1493, 
having  discovered  the  New  World.  Cortes  also  landed  at  Palos  in 
1528  after  his  conquest  of  Mexico.  Palos  is  now  an  insignificant 
village. 

From  Huelva  to  Minas  de  Bio  Tinto,  62  M.,  narrow-gauge  railway 
in  4V4hrs.  (fares  Up.  70,  7  p.  90,  4  p.  90c.).  —  The  railway  diverges  at 
Niebla  (p.  423)  from  that  to  Seville  and  runs  to  the  N.  along  the  Bio 
Tinto.  The  old  town  of(52M.)  Minas  de  Rio  Tinio  is  close  to  the  mines, 
and  visitors  provided  with  an  introduction  will  find  no  difficulty  in  obtain- 
ing accommodation.  There  are  also  three  or  four  separate  villages  for 
the  miners,  one  of  which  is  devoted  to  Englishmen  and  has  an  Bnglish 
chapel.  The  Bio  Tinto  Mines  are,  perhaps,  the  most  valuable  copper 
mines  in  existence.  They  were  probably  worked  by  the  Phcenicians  and 
were  certainly  known  to  the  Bomans,  of  whose  presence  traces  still  exist. 
Between  the  Boman  period  and  1725,  when  they  were  leaded  to  a  Swede 
fiamed  Wolters,  the  mines  were  little  exploited.  Their  real  importance 
in  modern  times  began  in  1872,  when  they  were  acquired  from  the  Spanish 
government  by  a  syndicate  of  London  and  Bremen  capitalists,  at  a  cost 
of  nearly  4,000,0002.  The  mines  occupy  an  enormous  area,  and  a  district 
of  about  8  sq.  M .  is  covered  with  heaps  of  slag  and  refuse,  while  vege- 
tation has  been  killed  for  many  miles  around.  The  ore,  which  is  found 
near  the  surface,  is  iron  pyrites,  containing  about  60  per  cent  of' sulphur 
and  3-4  per  cent  of  copper.  Upwards  of  one  million  tons  of  ore  are  raised 
annually,  producing  20,000  tons  of  copper*,  the  greater  part  is  sent  to 
England  for  treatment,  but  large  quantities  are  also  calcined  on  the  spot 
The  district  is  inhabited  by  about  12,000  people,  of  whom  10,000  are  em. 
ployed  in  the  mines  or  on  the  railways.  There  are  60  M.  of  railway  in 
the  mines,  above  and  below  ground.  Comp.  *9pain  of  To-Day',  by  W.  B, 
lawson  (Blackwood  &  Sons^  1890). 


CORTA.  46.  Route.   425 

Another  mineral  railway  connects  Huelva  with  the  Mines  of  Tharsis, 
30  M.  to  the  N.W.  These  were  also  worked  by  the  Phoenicians  and 
Romans  and  have  recently  been  again  exploited  with  the  aid  of  British 
capital.  The  name  has  probably  some  connection  with  the  Biblical  Tarshish 
(comp.  p.  294). 

Huelva  is  also  connected  by  railway  with  (112  M.)  Zc^fra  and  (153  M.) 
Merida:  comp.  p.  459.  —  Steamers  ply  between  Huelva,  Cadiz  (p.  434), 
and  Malaga  (p.  32 1. 

45.  From  Seyille  to  Cadiz, 
a.  By  Steamer  vilk  San  Ldcar  de  Barrameda. 

The  large  Dbsp-Sba.  Steaubbs  ply  only  once  a  week  from  Seville  to 
Cadiz  direct  (ca.  8  hrs.))  &nd  their  days  and  hours  of  departure  may  be 
ascertained  from  Antonio  Milkm^  Calle  Duque  de  la  Victoria  2,  duplieado. 
—  The  small  River  Steamers  mentioned  at  p.  387  ply  twice  weekly  to 
San  L^iear  de  Barrameda  (6L  M.,  in  ca.  6  hrs.).  From  San  Lticar  a  Railway 
runs  to  (47  M.)  Oadiz  vift  Jerez  (p.  428),  and  another  and  somewhat  shorter 
line  viH  Chipiona  and  Pturto  de  Santa  Maria  (p.  432).  —  The  passage  from 
the  river  to  the  ocean  beyond  San  Liicar  and  also  the  rest  of  the  sea- 
voyage  are  very  imposing ,  and  the  view  of  Cadis  from  the  sea  is  very 
fine.  On  the  other  band,  the  railway-journey  round  the  interesting  Bay 
of  Cadiz  is  also  very  charming.  Bad  sailors  will  prefer  the  land-journey 
in  spring  or  autumn,  but  the  sea  is  usually  quite  calm  in  summer. 

The  steamer  follows  the  winding  course  of  the  Guadalquivir  in 
a  general  S.  direction.  To  the  left  lie  the  Ddieias  (p.  418)  and  the 
Race  Course^  to  the  right  is  the  suburb  of  Triana.  A  little  farther 
on  is  San  Juan  de  Aznalfarache  (p.  423).  To  the  right  is  a  hilly 
district;  to  the  left,  farther  on,  stretches  the  interminable  level  of 
the  Marismas  or  salt-marshes  (p.  427).  In  the  distance,  to  the  left, 
are  seen  Dos  Hermanas  (p.  427)  and  Utrera  (p.  427).  On  the  right 
bank,  amid  orange-groves,  lie  Oelves  and  C6ria.  The  latter,  once 
a  Roman  potters'  town,  is  still  celebrated  for  its  'tlnajas*.  It  is  the 
goal  of  the  small  local  steamer  mentioned  at  p.  387.  Coria  is  ad- 
joined by  Mertina  and  the  flshing-village  of  Puebla  junto  d  Coria. 

The  river  divides  into  the  Brazos  (arms)  de  Este,  del  MediOy  and 
de  la  Torrey  which  form  the  Isla  Mayor  (right)  and  the  lala  Menor 
(left)  among  the  marismas.  The  former,  named  Kaptal  by  the  Moors, 
is  now  used  for  the  cultivation  of  cotton  (algod6n).  La  Cortadura  or 
Canal  de  San  Fernando^  cut  through  the  Isla  Menor,  abridges  the 
voyage  by  11  M.  The  Corta  de  loe  Jerdnhnoa  saves  10  M.  more. 
The  steamer  follows  the  Brazo  del  Medio ,  which  unites  with  the 
Brazo  del  Este  below  the  Isla  Menor  and  assumes  the  name  of  Brazo 
de  Tarfia.  The  scenery  is  very  desolate,  animated  only  by  an  occa- 
sional herd  of  bulls  or  a  flock  of  wildfowl.  On  the  distant  foot-hills 
to  the  left  lie  Las  Oabezas  de  San  Juan  (p.  428),  Lebrija  (p.  428), 
and  Trebujena  (p.  428).  Farther  on,  the  Brazo  de  Tarfla  unites  with 
the  Brazo  de  la  Torre  or  W.  branch,  a  little  above  the  point  where 
the  three  provinces  of  Seville,  Cadiz,  and  Huelva  (right  bank)  meet. 
The  river  here  is  2  M.  wide,  and  the  banks  are  covered  with  pines. 
The  water  is  already  brackish.  On  both  sides  are  extensive  salt-pans 
{salincu;  p.  433),  with  narrow  water-channels  (canos). 


426  Route  46.  BONANZA.  From  SeviUe 

After  a  long  interval  appears  Bonania,  a  small  town  ou  the  left 
bank,  named  after  the  chapel  of  the  Virgeii  de  la  Bonanza  ('good 
weather) ,  erected  by  the  S.  American  Company  of  Seville.  The 
strand  of  Bonanza  is  celebrated  by  Cervantes,  in  'La  Ilustre  Fregona'. 
as  the  resort  of  smugglers,  pirates,  and  other  ruffians.  Bonanza  is 
the  starting-point  of  the  under-mentioned  railway  to  Jerez,  and  is 
about  272  M.  from  San  Ltjcar.  To  the  N.  stretches  the  Algaida 
(Arab.  *de8ert');  the  river-bank,  with  its  ^ixnes  (arenas  volader  as  J 
and  marismas,  has  now  all  the  characteristics  of  a  sea-beach.  On 
the  other  side  are  the  Punia  del  Malandar,  and  the  end  of  the  Arenas 
QordaSf  a  chain  of  dunes  running  to  the  N.AV.  as  far  as  La  Rdbida. 

61  M.  San  Ltiear  de  Barrameda  (Fonda  BaUesieros),  a  town  of 
20,700  inhab.,  situated  amid  the  dunes  and  named  in  honour  of 
St.  Luke,  carries  on  a  brisk  trade  in  exporting  sherry,  manzanilla, 
and  other  wine.  It  was  taken  from  the  Moors  in  1264  and  granted 
to  the  father  of  Guzman  el  Bueno  (p.  377),  but  did  not  become  of 
Importance  until  after  the  discovery  of  America.  The  Portuguese 
mariner  FernSLo  de  Magalhdes  (Magellan)  sailed  from  this  port-  in 
1519  for  his  journey  round  the  world,  with  an  expedition  fitted  out 
at  Seville.  The  town  is  protected  by  forts  and  possesses  many  villas 
with  orange-groves  and  palms.  Its  admirable  sea-baths  are  much 
frequented  by  the  Sevillians.  The  only  'sights'  are  the  Hospital  of 
St,  George,  founded  for  English  seamen  by  Henry  Ylll.  in  1517, 
and  the  Palace  of  the  Duchesse  de  Montpensier,  with  its  celebrated 
treasures  of  art.  —  The  sand-hills  are  covered  with  vines,  said  to 
have  been  originally  imported  from  the  lihineland,  and  produce  the 
excellent  Manzanilla  wine.  On  the  landward  side  the  town  is  shel- 
tered by  a  pine-wood.  A  fine  ocean-view  is  enjoyed  towards  the  W. 

Fboh  Bokanza  and  8an  Lv car  to  Jerez,  iS'/s  M.,  railway  (four  traiBa 
daily)  in  about  1  br.  (fares  8  p.  75,  2  p.  40,  1  p.  46  c).  —  The  line  runs 
towards  the  8.E.  9H.  Las  Tahlas.  At  (14i/sM.)  Aleubilla  it  intersects  the 
S.  spurs  of  the  sandstone  range  of  ihe  Sierra  de  San  Cristdbttl.  —  15Vsltf- 
Jerez^  see  p.  428. 

FsoM  San  Lvcar  to  Puf.bto  de  Santa  Mabia,  24  M.,  railway  (two 
trains  daily)  in  about  IVs  hr.  —  The  line  follows  the  coast  to  the  IH.W. 
lo  (&V2  ^)  Torre  de  Chipiona^  with  a  large  lighthouse,  tiie  light  of  which 
is  visible  for  a  distance  of  28  nautical  miles ,  and  with  a  ^apel  of  the 
Virgen  de  la  Regla^  the  black  wuoden  image  of  which  is  held  in  great 
veneration  by  mariners.  —  The  line  now  runs  to  the  S.E.,  skirting  the  sea. 
Beyond  (d  M.)  La  Ballena  it  passes  the  Punta  de  Candor.  —  141/2  M.  Eota, 
a  town  of  7800  inhab.,  pleasantly  situated  at  the  8.W.  end  of  the  spacious 
Bay  of  Cadiz,  the  shores  of  which  are  inhabited  by  about  200,000  people. 
Ruta  is  the  vegetable  market  of  Cadiz  and  produces  a  dark-red  wine 
(vino  tin(illo),  used  in  England  for  sacramental  purposes  under  the  name 
of  Tent  Wine.  —  Farther  on  we  see  to  the  right  the  forts  of  La  PuntiUa 
and  Santa  Catalinaf  in  the  distance  are  the  white  houses  of  Cadiz.  — 
24  M.  Puerto  de  Santa  Maria  (p.  432). 

Beyond  San  Lticar  the  steamer  crosses  the  bar  of  the  Quadal- 
quivir.  To  the  right,  on  the  Arenas  Gordas,  rises  the  Torre  de  San 
Jacinto,  On  arriving  off  the  Torre  de  Chipiona,  the  steamer's  course 
is  changed  to  the  S.E.    Beyond  the  Punta  de  Candor  and  the  small 


to  Cadiz.  UTRERA.  46,  Route,  427 

town  of  Rota  (p.  426)  we  obtain  a  magnificent  view  of  the  Bay 
of  Cadiz,  with  the  above-named  forts  on  its  N.  Bide.  At  its  head 
are  the  Trocadero  and  San  Fernando  (p.  433).  Cadiz  itself  rises  to 
the  S.E.,  a  dazzlingly  white  vision,  like  *a  castle  in  mid-ocean*. 
The  steamer  leaves  the  reefs  of  Las  Puercas  and  Los  Cochinos 
(p.  436)  to  the  right  and  anchors  in  the  open  roads  of  Cadiz  (p.  434). 

b.  By  Bailway  vik  Utrera  and  Jer^E. 

95  M.  Railway  (two  ordiDary  trains  daily)  in  4V4-5  brd.  (fares  18  p.  20, 
13  p.  36  c,  8  p.)'  The  express  leaving  Seville  on  Taes.,  Thurs.,  &  Sat. 
(see  p.  300)  takes  S^z  hrs.  There  are  also  local  trains  between  Seville 
and  Utrera  and  between  Jerez  and  Cadiz.  The  trains  start  at  the  EetaeUn 
de  Cadi*  (p.  387);  there  Is  a  railway-restaurant  at  Uirera.  —  Beyond  Jerez; 
the  best  views  are  to  the  right. 

Seville^  see  p.  387.  —  The  line  runs  to  the  S.E.,  through  an 
exuberantly  fertile  district  of  oranges,  olives,  and  pomegranates, 
Intermixed  with  patches  of  heath  and  palmetto-scrub  (p.  227).  The 
train  crosses  the  Ouadaira.  On  the  other  side  of  the  Guadalquivir 
rise  the  heights  of  San  Juan  de  Aznalfarache  (p.  423)  and  Coria 
(p.  425).  —  9  M.  Dos  Ilermanas,  with  the  attractive  country-villas 
of  the  Sevillians.  To  the  S.E.  are  the  hills  of  Moron  (p.  387),  the 
Sierra  de  Algodonales,  and  the  lofty  steeple  of  Utrera. 

I9V2  M.  Utrera  (L(6n  de  Oro;  Fonda  del  SarUisimo;  Rail,  Re- 
staiurantjy  a  well-to-do  town  with  13,400  inhab.,  mainly  engaged  in 
agriculture,  cattle- rearing,  and  sheep-breeding.  During  the  time 
of  the  wars  between  the  Spaniards  and  Moors,  and  even  later, 
Utrera  was  such  an  asylum  for  fugitives  from  justice  as  to  give  rise 
to  the  saying  ^matale  y  vete  d  Utrera'  ('kill  him  and  go  to  Utrera'). 
The  principal  church  of  SarUa  Maria  de  la  Mesa  or  de  la  Asurhcidn 
has  a  conspicuous  tower  of  the  18th  cent,  and  contains  the  tomb  of 
Diego  Ponce  de  Leon.  In  the  church  of  Santiago  is  preserved  one 
of  the  thirty  pieces  of  silver  for  which  Judas  betrayed  his  Lord. 
Outside  the  town  is  the  Ccnvento  de  los  Minimosj  where  a  church 
festival  and  feria  mentioned  at  p.  391  take  place  in  honour  of  the 
Virgen  de  la  Consolacion. 

Prom  Utrera  to  Cordova  via  Afarcfiena  and  Edja^  gee  p.  319  5  to  Boba- 
dilkt  vi4  Marehena  and  La  Roda^  Fee  B.  42. 

Beyond  Utrera  the  landscape  changes  its  character.  The  train 
descends  to  the  S.W.,  crossing  the  Arroyo  de  la  Ardigua^  to  the 
plain  of  the  Guadalquivir,  which  it  reaches  at  (27  M.)  Alcantarillas. 
Near  the  station  we  see  to  the  right  the  Roman  bridge,  with  its 
towers,  and  (in  the  distance)  Palacios,  The  small  river,  which 
farther  on  forms  a  caiio  (p.  425)  of  the  marismas,  is  the  Salado  de 
Mor6n.  Farther  on  the  line  intersects  several  mountain  -  spurs, 
affording  a  good  insight  into  the  character  of  this  singular  district. 
The  plain  of  the  Guadalquivir  below  Utrera  forms  a  Marfenuty  or  saline 
allavial  district,  25  M.  long  and  10  M.  broad.  In  winter  it  is  a  marsh 
•  in  summer  a  dusty,  dark-brown  heath.  The  few  cottages  float,  as  it  w 
in  this  bog  •,  sometimes  a  farm-house  is  perched  on  an  island-like  e) 
tion.    It  is  used  as  pasture  for  the  'toros  braves'  of  the  arena  an<' 


428   Route  46,  JER^Z.  FromaevilU 

herdi  of  browoish-black  sheep,  which  thrlre  on  the  saltwort  and  reeds. 
In  summer  the  whole  tract  is  a  veritable  desert,  and  the  late  aatumn  is 
its  real  spring,  which  continues  through  the  mild  winter.  The  crocus 
blooms  in  January.  From  the  MontcMeu  <M  Pinal  ^  to  the  S.E.,  dfesoend 
seyeral  brook3,  which  are  often  absorbed  by  the  marisma  before  reaching 
the  Guadalquivir.  Several  mountain-spuri,  of  tertiary  formation,  project 
into  the  plain,  and  support  a  few  villages,  surrounded  by  palms,  olives, 
and  vineyards.    The  railway  touches  some  of  these. 

^Geologically,  the  marismas  are  the  deltas  of  great  rivers,  the  alluvial 
accumulations  of  ages,  deposited,  layer  upon  layer,  on  the  sea-bottom 
till  the  myriad  particles  thrust  back  the  sea,  and  form  level  plains  of  dry 
land.  The  struggle  between  rival  elements  doe)  not  terminate,  but  the 
attacks  of  the  liquid  combatant  only  seem  to  result  in  still  further  as- 
suring the  victory  of  terra  firma^  by  banking  up  between  the  opposing 
forces  an  impregnable  rampart  of  sand.  The  latter,  overlying  the  margin 
of  the  rich  alluvial  mud,  is  thus  capable,  in  its  hollows  and  deeper  dells, 
of  sustaining  a  luxuriant  plant-life,  which  in  turn  serves  to  fortify  and 
consolidate  its  otherwise  unstable  consistency'  ('Wild  Spain",  by  A.  Chapman 
and  W.  J.  Buck). 

The  marismas  abound  with  water-fowl  of  all  kinds,  and  flocks  of  600 
flamingoes  may  be  seen  at  once.  There  is  said  to  be  a  herd  of  wild 
camels  in  the  marismas  to  the  W.  of  the  Guadalquivir,  descended  from 
some  imported  in  1829. 

34  M.  Las  Cahezas  de  San  Juan^  a  small  town  on  a  pointed  hill, 
2  M.  to  the  left  of  the  railway.  Farther  on  Trebujena  (see  helowi 
is  seen  to  the  right.  —  To  the  left  rises  the  lofty  tower  of  (46  M.) 
Lebrija,  built  in  the  18th  cent,  in  Imitation  of  the  Giralda.  The 
prosperous  town,  with  11,700  inhab.,  was  the  Nebrissa  Veneria  of 
Pliny  and  the  N^isha  of  the  Moors.  The  Principal  Church,  origin- 
ally a  mosque,  contains  a  retabb  by  Alonso  Cano  and  the  'Mariquita 
del  Marmolejo',  a  headless  Roman  status  now  regarded  as  the  Virgin 
Mary.    In  the  cloisters  is  a  crucifix,  by  Mon tafias  (p.  lix). 

The  railway  now  traverses  the  alluvial  Marismas  de  Lebrija^  where 
some  attempt  at  cultivation  is  made ,  and  enters  the  province  of 
Cadiz.  —  62V2  M.  El  CuervOj  the  station  for  Trebujena^  a  wretched 
little  town  3  M.  to  the  N.W.  (right).  To  the  left,  6  M.  off,  are  the 
remains  of  the  Moorish  castle  of  Melgarejo  and  the  Carthusian  con- 
vent of  Gigonza. 

"We  traverse  a  hilly,  grain  producing  district  and  then  the  Llanos 
de  Caidinaf  a  shaggy  heath  with  pines  and  dwarf- palms.  In  its 
midst  lies  the  hippodrome  of  Jerez,  which  was  the  cradle  of  horse- 
racing  in  Spain.  As  we  approach  the  town  we  pass  groves  of  olives, 
vineyards,  cactus-hedges,  villas,  a  cemetery,  and  the  bull-ring. 
—  621/2  M.  Jera. 

Jer^z.  —  The  Railway  Station  lies  at  the  K.E.  end  of  the  town.  Hotel 
Omnibuses  and  Cabs  (tare  1  p  ,  at  night  2  p.,  luggage  V^-l  P-  i  more  with 
two  horses)  meet  the  trains.  There  is  also  a  Tramwajf  to  the  Plaza  de 
Alfonso  Doce  (15  c). 

Hotels.  *FoNi>A  D£  LOS  CisNBs,  Calle  Larga  58;  Fonda  de  Jxafiz, 
Calle  de  las  Naranjas  10^  La  Victobia,  Corredera  1,  unpretending.  — 
Restaurants  and  Cc^6s  at  the  hotels. 

Post  Office,  Calle  de  Corredera.    Telegraph  Office,  Calle  de  Medina  B. 

Consulates.  British,  H.  Seymour  Daviesf  U.  S.  A.,  Lennart  NUson^  Tor- 
•ia  11. 


to  Cadiz,  JEBJ^Z.  46,  BouU,  429 

Theatreti  Galle  de  Mesones  and  Alameda  Vieja.  —  Bull  Bing  (comp. 
p.  zxvi),  to  the  X.  of  the  town,  with  excellent  corridas  during  the  Feria 
(May  Itt). 

Chief  Attxaotions  (one  day).  Horning:  Flaxa  de  Al/onto  Doce;  San 
MigtUl;  Alcazar;  San  DionUio  and  Cabildo  Viejo ;  Bodega  of  Gonzalez^ 
Byau^  Jb  Co.    In  the  afternoon:  excursion  to  the  Cartuja. 

Jerez  (160  ft.),  or  Xtres  de  la  Frontera,  contains  49,000  inhab. 
aud  is  the  third  city  of  Spain  in  point  of  weaith.  Its  white  wine 
is  known  all  over  the  world  under  the  name  of  Sherry  (the  Sherris 
of  Shakespeare;  a  corruption  of  Jerez,  which  is  pronounced  'hereth'), 
and  millions  of  gallons  of  it  are  stored  in  the  bodegas  of  its  opu- 
lent wine-merchants.  The  general  appearance  of  the  town,  with 
its  shady  promenades  and  whitewashed  houses,  is  yery  clean  and 
attractive. 

History.  Jerix^  the  Yisigothic  Ceret^  is  first  ntientioned  hy  historians 
as  the  seene  of  the  decisive  struggle  between  the  Visigoths  and  the  Moors 
in  711,  when  the  chivalry  of  Christian  Spain  went  down  before  the  Moslem 
after  a  battle  lasting  for  several  days.  The  most  recent  research,  however, 
places  this  battle,  not  on  the  Guadalete  bat  on  the  Sedado,  at  a  point 
near  Capo  Trafalgar  (p.  886),  between  Vejer  and  Conil.  The  reconquest  of 
Seville  (p.  385)  by  St.  FercUnand  also  brought  about  the  capture  of  Jerez 
(1251),  but  the  latter  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Moors  again  twice  over, 
in  spite  of  the  heroic  defence  made  loi  1261  by  the  Castilians  Oarci  Odmee 
Carrillo  and  Forttm  de  Torre.  After  its  ultimate  capture  by  AJfomo  the 
Learned  (Oct.  9th,  1264)  Jerez  played  a  prominent  part  in  the  struggle  be- 
tween the  Christians  and  the  Moors.  In  1362  Peter  the  Cruel  (p.  395)  caused 
his  wife  Blanche  de  BouH>on  to  be  murdered  here  and  interred  in  the 
Franciscan  convent.  In  1379  it  received  the  surname  de  la  FrotUera,  like 
other  towns  on  the  £.  border  of  the  Moorish  possessions.  The  ^Catholic 
Kings'  befriended  the  town,  and  its  prosperity  was  continuous.  In  recent 
days  great  havoc  has  been  wrought  at  Jerez  by  the  yellow  fever,  but  the 
completion  (1869)  of  the  Actteducto  de  Tempiil  (29  M.  long),  which  brings 
an  abundant  supply  of  pure  mountain  -  water,  has  greatly  improved  the 
health  of  the  town. 

From  the  railway-station  we  follow  the  Oalle  de  Medina  to  the 
S.W.  and  then  take  the  third  cross-street  on  the  left,  leading  to  the 
attractive  Plaza  de  las  Angustiaa.  Thence  the  Corredera  runs  to  the 
S.W.  to  the  •Plaza  db  Alfonso  Doob  (formerly  named  the 
Plaza  del  Arenal)^  one  of  the  finest  public  squares  in  Andalusia, 
with  its  fountain  and  tall  palms.  —  A  little  to  the  N.,  on  the  site 
of  the  former  Franciscan  convent,  stands  the  Mercado  Central.  The 
short  Galle  de  Santa  Cecilia  leads  to  the  S.£.  to  the  church  of  *San 
Higueli  a  Gothic  edifice  erected  in  1482  et  seq.  (sacristan's  house 
to  the  S.E.  of  the  church ;  fee  Y2-I  pO*  The  W.  facade,  with  its 
elaborate  columns,  has  been  modernized.  Over  it  rises  a  handsome 
tower,  the  upper  part  embellished  with  azulejos.  The  side-portals 
are  still  Gothic. 

Intebiob.  The  fine  piers  at  the  crossing,  with  their  superb  canopies, 
consoles,  and  entablature,  deserve  special  attention.  The  vaulting  with 
its  deep  cells  recalls  the  cathedral  of  Seville.  The  stained-glass  windows 
are  set  in  the  richest  Gothic  tracery.  —  To  the  N.  of  the  transept  is  the 
SagrariOf  with  handsome  doors  by  Berruguete.  The  Capilla  de  la  En- 
carnacidn  has  a  fine  altar.  The  large  retablo  of  the  Coro  is  adorned  with 
reliefs  from  the  New  Testament  by  MorUcOi&s  (1625). 

From  San  Miguel  we  proceed  to  the  S.W.  to  the  Plaza  Fobtbn 


430    RouU46.  JER£Z.  FromSevilU 

DE  To&KB  (formerly  the  Alameda  Vieja^j  another  pleasant  promenade 
where  a  hand  often  plays  in  summer.  The  somewhat  nninteresting 
view  comprizes  the  hilly  country  to  the  S.W.  —  On  the  N.  side  of 
the  plaza  stands  the  Aloizar,  the  only  relic  of  the  Moorish  period, 
now  in  the  hands  of  the  Duke  of  San  Lorenzo  (not  always  accessible ; 
porter  in  the  court,  to  the  left;  fee  1-1  VaP-)'  ^*  shows  the  usual 
mixture  of  palace  and  fortress.  The  Torre  del  Homenaye  and  the 
Octagonal  Tower  afford  good  views  of  the  town  and  its  environs. 
The  SaUSn  del  Trono  is  the  finest  room. 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  plaza  are  the  huge  bodegas  of  Gonzalez, 
Bycus,  ^  Co.  (see  below*)  and  the  Colbgiata,  a  baroque  edifice 
erected  by  Cayon  (p.  441)  at  the  close  of  the  17th  century.  The 
library  of  the  latter  contains  the  Monetario  (collection  of  coins)  of 
Diaz  de  la  Guerra,  Bishop  of  Siguenza,  a  native  of  Jertfz.  The  sum- 
mit of  the  slender  Torre  de  San  Salvador,  the  detached  bell-tower 
of  the  Golegiata  (147  steps ;  fee  25-50  c),  commands  an  excellent 
view  of  the  town,  the  Sierra  de  San  Cristobal  (p.  426)  to  the  W., 
and  the  hills  round  Arcos  to  the  £.   The  sea  is  not  visible. 

The  Calle  de  la  Princesa,  beginning  near  the  Golegiata,  leads 
to  the  N.  to  the  church  of  San  DiorUsio,  in  the  plaza  of  the  same 
name,  a  Gothic-Mud^jar  edifice  of  the  time  of  Alfonso  the  Learned. 
In  the  same  square  stands  the  old  town-hall,  now  the  Cabildo  Yiejo, 
a  Renaissance  building  by  Andres  de  Ribera  and  others  (1575  et 
seq.),  with  a  facade  adorned  with  coats-of-arms  and  statues.  It 
contains  the  BibUoteca  Pdblica  Municipal,  founded  in  1873.  —  A 
few  yards  from  this  plaza  lies  the  Plaza  de  lot  PlaXerot, 

The  other  sights  of  Jerez  are  of  less  Importance.  They  include 
the  churches  of  Santiago,  San  Mateo,  San  Juan  de  las  CahaUeros,  and 
San  Lucas,  and  also  the  Hospital  Munieipcd,  in  the  old  Convento  de 
la  Merced,  to  the  S.W.  —  At  the  S.W.  extremity  of  the  town  is  the 
Depdsito  de  las  Aguas,  the  storage  basin  of  the  aqueduct  mentioned 
at  p.  429.  Adjacent  are  the  attractive  grounds  of  the  Plaza  deEguilaz. 

Visitors  are  usually  admitted  to  the  celebrated  *Bodegaa  on  applica- 
tion between  9  and  4.  Among  the  largest  and  most  celebrated  are  those 
of  Gonzalez,  Bj/au,  <Cr  Co.  (see  aboye),  Pedro  Domecq  (Plaza  San  IldeFonso), 
Manuel  Mi$a  (Calle  de  Don  Juan),  and  Oarvey  A  Co.  (Calle  de  Guadalete). 
Visitors  are  taken  round  by  a  clerk  and  are  invited  to  ^sample"  the  various 
brands.  The  bodegas  contain  enormous  quantities  of  wine,  some  as  much 
as  10-20,(XX)  hdtas  (butts).  In  that  of  Gonzilez  are  shown  casks  named 
Christ  and  the  Apostles,  Methusalem,  E.  1.8.  (<.«.  Bast  India  Sherry,  which 
has  made  the  voyage  across  the  line),  N.P.  U.  (Non  Plus  Ultra),  Oloroso 
Muy  Viejo,  and  Vino  de  Jesu  Cristo.  The  cooperage  attached  to  this 
bodega  employs  200  men.  In  Domecq's  bodega  is  an  enormous  cask  named 
Napoleon.  —  The  environs  of  Jerez  are  planted  with  vineyards,  covering 
an  area  of  150,0J0  aranzadas  (i65,(XX)  acres).  The  most  celebrated  are 
those  of  Domecq  9ki  Maehanudo  (sumamed  El  Majutlo)  and  Pemartin.  From 
700  to  1000  vintagers  are  sometimes  -  employed  on  the  former. 

The  finest  excursion  from  Jerez  is  that  to  the  'Oartaja,  a  secularized 
Carthusian  convent  which  lies  on  the  Guadalete  (p.  431),  2Va  M.  to  the 
S.B.  The  route  to  it  leads  from  the  station  through  vinei^rds  (saddle 
horse  ca.  5-6  p.  •,  carr.  dear).    —  The  convent,  founded  in  1477  by  Alvaro 


to  Cadin,  ARCOS.  46,  BouU.   4^1 

Obertos  de  Valelo  of  Genoa  and  secularized  in  1886,  is  now  partly  used  as 
a  stud  (Depdsito  de  Caballot  SementcUes).  It  is  in  a  most  lamentable  con- 
dition bat  possesses  many  features  of  great  interest.  The  superb  ReneUs- 
sance  Fafode  of  the  convent,  now  completely  isolated  from  the  rest  of  the 
buildings,  was  built  in  1571  by  Andria  de  Ribera.  Beyond  a  grass-grown 
patio  we  reach  the  Gothic  Churchy  with  a  richly  decorated  facade  added 
in  1687.  In  front  of  the  high-altar  is  the  tomb  of  the  founder.  The  finest 
of  the  three  courts  is  the  Patio  Principal^  with  its  24  marble  columns  and 
azulejo  bases.  Adjacent  are  the  Claustrillo,  the  Chapter  House ,  and  the 
Be/ectoty,  all  more  or  less  mutilated  and  destroyed. 

From  Jkbbz  to  Akcos,  17  M.,  diligence  daily  in  ca.  3  hrs.  The  good 
road  crosses  the  Llanos  de  Caulina  (p.  428),  passes  the  tower  of  Melgarejo 
(p.  428),  and  traverses  the  Llanos  de  Don  Carlos.  Finally  we  cross  the 
Salado  de  Arcos  by  the  bridge  named  AlcantaHlla  de  Jerez  and  soon  reach 
Arcot  (Fonda  de  JSetn  Antonio)^  which,  like  Jerez,  has  borne  the  affix  de  la 
Frontera  (p.  429)  ever  since  its  capture  by  Alfonso  the  Learned  (1264).  The 
town  (14,000  inhab.)  lies  on  the  N.  slope  of  a  sandstone  bluff  (545  ft.),  sur- 
rounded on  three  sides  by  the  Guadalete,  and  affords  charming  views  of 
the  fertile  plains  of  the  Ouadulcte  and  MagaceUe  (S.W.)  and  of  the  im- 
l>05ing  Cerro  de  San  Cristdbal  (p.  370^  E.).  The  rock  contains  numerous 
cave-dwellings.  In  the  Plaza  de  Ayuntamiento,  at  its  highest  point,  stands 
the  Gothic  church  of  Banta  Maria  de  la  Asuncidn,  with  a  fine  side-portal. 
The  unfinished  tower  (i2S  ft.),  with  its  ten  famous  bells,  is  modern.  Ad- 
jacent arc  the  Toun  Hall,  iha  Palace  of  the  Duke  o/ Arcos,  and  the  Theatre. 
The  church  of  San  Pedro  contains  a  handsome  altar  and  some  Moorish 
banners  laken  at  Zdhara  (fsce  below). 

A  road  leads  from  Arcus  along  the  Quadalete  and  through  the  (5  M.) 
gorge  o{  A'igostura  to  (7  If.)  Bomot,  a  town  of  5600  inhab.,  on  the  Sierra 
del  Calvario.  It  possesses  a  warm  sulphur-spring  named  the  Fuente  de  la 
Sarna  ('itch')  and  is  a  favourite  summer-resort  of  the  Andalusians. 

Fkom  Bonsros  to  Bomda  (p.  370).  This  trip  is  recommended  to  those 
who  are  fond  of  adventurous  mountain-tours.  One  route  leads  via  Prado  del 
Rey  and  El  Bosque  (between  which  are  the  Salinas  de  Hortales^  a  rich  salt 
spring)  to  Qrazalema,  the  Lacidulia  of  the  Romans,  with  6000  inhabitants. 
Another  route  ascends  the  Guadalete  to  Villcanarlin  (good  road  thus  far) 
and  then  rnns  via  Puerto  Serrano  and  Algodonaies  to  ZUiara  (1700  inhab.), 
a  famous  Moorish  town,  captured  by  the  Spaniards  in  1483.  From  Zahara 
a  mountain-path  crosses  to  Qrazakma^  whence  a  diligence  runs  daily  to 
Ronda  (p.  370).    Or  we  may  ride  direct  from  Zahara  to  (15  M.)  Bonda. 

From  Jerez  to  San  Liiear  de  Barramfda,  see  p.  426. 


The  Uailway  to  Cadiz  runs  to  the  S.  through  the  range  of  hills 
on  which  Jerez  lies,  in  a  cutting  40-50  ft.  deep.  To  the  right  we 
see  Jerez  and  the  rich  corn-flelds  and  vineyards  of  the  valley  sep- 
arating it  on  the  W.  from  the  Sierra  de  San  Cristobal  (p.  426).  To 
the  left  are  the  jagged  summit  of  the  Atalaya  and  the  supposed 
battlefield  of  the  Guadalete  (see  p.  429).  The  train  crosses  the 
Rio  Portal,  a  small  affluent  of  the  Guadalete,  at  the  artificially  ex- 
panded mouth  of  which  onoe  lay  the  port  of  Jerez.  Farther  on  we 
run  to  the  S.W.,  hugging  the  winding  course  ofthe  Quadalete,  This 
river,  the  Leteo  of  the  ancients  and  the  Wdd  al-Leded  of  the  Moors, 
often  splits  up  into  several  arms  and  becomes  navigable  at  the  Car- 
tiya  (p.  430).  A  little  farther  on  begins  the  Acuediicto  de  la  Piedad, 
which  provides  the  villages  of  the  district  with  the  water  of  the 
Guadalete.  The  railway  follows  the  aqueduct  all  the  way  to  Oadlz. 
On  the  hill  to  the  right  are  the  Cortijo  de  la  Atalaya  (once  a  watc' 


432   RouU  45,        PUERTO  DE  S.  MARIA.         From  Seville 

tower')  and  the  Castillo  de  Dona  Blanea,  the  wife  of  Petei  the  Gmel 
(p.  429).  In  the  distance,  to  the  S.W. ,  is  *fair  Cadiz,  rising  o'er 
the  dark  bine  sea'.  The  plain  of  the  Gnadalete  here  hecomes  a  salt 
marsh ,  and  the  general  appearance  of  the  landscape  recalls  the  la- 
goons of  Venice. 

74  M.  Puerto  de  Santa  Maria  (^HoUl  de  Vista  AUgre;  British 
Vice-Consul,  J2.  J.  Pitman;  U.  S.  Consular  Agent,  George  M,  Da- 
niels'), generally  known  simply  as  El  Puerto,  is  the  Porttts  Menesthei 
of  the  ancients  and  one  of  the  oldest  settlements  on  the  Bay  of 
Cadiz,  which  is  here  entered  by  the  Guadalete.  It  is  now  an  im- 
portant seaport,  with  18,900  inhabitants.  The  situation  of  the  town 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  opposite  the  pine -wood  of  Coto 
(p.  433),  with  blue  mountains  in  the  background,  is  very  picturesque. 
The  wine-trade  is  mainly  in  the  hands  of  English  firms,  the  Bodegas 
of  which  are  not  less  important  than  those  of  Jerez.  The  river  pours 
large  quantities  of  sand  into  the  bay.  There  is  a  large  fleet  of  fishing 
boats,  and  a  vast  quantity  of  fish  is  sent  to  Seville,  Cordova,  Bar- 
celona, and  Madrid. 

The  Calle  de  Ribera  Rio  leads  from  the  station  to  the  left  to 
(7  min.)  the  charmingly  situated  Hdtel  de  Vista  AUgre,  We, 
however,  in  the  meantime  turn  to  the  right,  to  visit  the  secularized 
Convento  de  la  Victoria,  of  the  church  of  which  little  remains  except 
the  handsome  W.'  portal.  The  convent  and  grounds  have  been  con- 
verted into  a  Convict  Hospital,  where  invalids  are  sent  from  the 
different  convict  prisons  in  the  country.  In  the  adjacent  Paseo, 
with  its  rich  vegetation,  we  may  watch  a  Ndria,  or  water-wheel,  at 
work.  Thence  we  proceed  to  the  W. ,  along  the  Plaza  de  los  Jas- 
mines, to  the  Calle  Larga,  the  main  street  of  the  town,  with  the 
houses  of  the  rich  wine-merchants ,  and  to  the  New  Town  Hall, 
From  this  point  the  Calle  de  Luna  leads  to  the  Alameda  El  Vergel, 
with  the  above-named  hotel,  the  Puente  de  San  Alejandro,  the  old 
road-bridge  over  the  Guadalete,  and  the  ships  at  anchor.  Good 
bathing  is  enjoyed  here  in  summer  in  the  salt-water  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river.  —  From  the  Calle  de  Vergel,  prolonging  the  Alameda 
towards  the  W.,  we  proceed  through  the  Calle  Palacios  to  the  Gothic 
Iglesia  Principal.  To  the  right,  farther  to  the  W.,  is  the  church  of 
San  Agustin.  In  the  Plaza  de  la  Peccaderfa  stands  the  curious-look- 
ing Castillo,  the  lofty  walls  and  battlements  of  which  date  from  the 
Moorish  period.  At  the  end  of  the  street  we  enjoy  a  good  view  of 
Cadiz ,  7  M.  to  the  S.W.  —  To  the  N.W.  are  the  Colegio,  a  Jesuit 
institution  for  500  pupils,  and  the  Bvll  Ring.  To  the  N.E.,  on  the 
road  to  Jerez,  are  the  Cementerio  IngUs  and  a  point  of  view  called 
Buenavista. 

From  Puerto  to  Roia  and  Sanl'dcar  de  Barrameda,  see  p.  426^  steam- 
boat to  Cadiz^  see  p.  436. 

A  little  to  the  S.W.  of  Paerto  are  the  singnlar  Navazo*  ('depressions')) 

a  series  of  rectangular  trenches  enclosed  by  reed-fences,   lying  below  the 

a-level  but  protected  by  a  chain  of  high  dunes.    The  sea-water  percolates 


to  Cadiz,  SAN  FERNANDO.  46.  Route.   433 

through  the  tand  and  keeps  the  soil  moiat  enough  for  the  growth  of  vege- 
tables, flgs,  and  almond'trees.  Large  boat-loads  of  green  staff  are  sent 
daUy  to  Cadiz. 

The  Railway  Bridge  across  the  Guadalete,  176  yds.  in  length, 
affords  a  fine  view  of  the  town,  the  river,  and  the  distant  Cadiz. 
To  the  right  lie  the  pine-wood  and  salt-marshes  of  Coto.  Near  the 
snspension-hridge  of  the  old  road  the  train  crosses  the  Rio  de  San 
Pedro,  an  arm  of  the  Gnadalete,  and  then  traverses  a  dreary  district 
of  salt-marshes.  —  77  M.  Empalme  de  Trocadero, 

From  this  station  a  branch-railway ,  nsed  only  for  goods-traffic ,  rans 
to  (i^/sM.)  Troeadero  (^place  of  exchange'),  a  small  Indostrial  and  fishing 
town,  on  the  CuUo  de  Troeadero.  It  enjoys  a  European  reputation  for  the 
vigorous  defence  made  here  by  the  Spaniards  in  1823,  with  the  aid  of 
two  forts ,  to  the  French  army  under  the  Due  d'Angouldme.  It  now  con- 
tains the  large  wharves  (dique)  of  the  Compania  Trasatiantica.  Steamer 
to  Cadis^  see  p.  436. 

79  M.  Pnerto  Beal  (Fonda  de  Roma;  ^Restaurant  Mantilla),  the 
Partus  Qaditanus  of  the  Romans,  rebuilt  by  the  *  Catholic  Kings*  in 
1483,  is  now  an  unimportant  town  with  7000  inhabitants.  It  lies 
in  the  innermost  recesses  of  the  Bay  of  Cadiz  and  is  probably  the 
most  ancient  trading  settlement  on  its  shores. 

The  train  skirts  the  entire  bay  in  its  curving  sweep  and  inter- 
sects the  salt-marshes  of  the  Salinas ,  where  the  salt,  obtained  by 
evaporation  from  the  sea-water,  is  piled  in  small  white  pyramids. 
To  the  right  are  two  water-towers ,  Carraoa  (see  below),  and  (in  the 
distance)  San  Fernando.  We  then  cross  a  three -arched  bridge 
spanning  the  Canal  de  Sancti  Petri,  a  narrow  arm  of  the  sea  extend- 
ing from  the  Moorish  Castillo  de  San  Romualdo  on  the  Bay  of  Cadiz 
on  the  N.  to  the  Fuerte  de  Sancti  Petri  on  the  S.  It  thus  forms  the 
Isla  de  Ledn^  which  is  named  after  the  family  of  Ponce  de  Leon 
and  contains  the  towns  of  San  Fernando  and  Cadiz. 

86  M.  San  Vemando,  an  important  town  of  23,000  inhab. ,  lies 
on  a  kind  of  rooky  island  amid  the  salt-marshes  and  was  known  in 
the  15th  cent,  under  the  name  of  Isla  de  Le6n.  During  the  War  of 
Independence  the  Cortes  met  here  (1810-13)  and  changed  the  name 
of  the  town  to  San  Fernando  (1813).  It  is  now  the  seat  of  the  chief 
naval  authorities  of  Spain.  The  main  street,  named  Calle  Real  or 
CaUe  de  la  ConstUxjicidn,  is  about  11/4  M.  in  length.  The  naval 
establishments  and  workshops,  a  naval  academy,  and  other  govern- 
ment buildings  are  in  the  suburb  of  San  Carlos,  which  was  founded 
by  Charles  III.  and  lies  to  the  N.,  beyond  the  railway.  To  San  Fer- 
nando belong  also  the  iron-foundry  of  CaserCa  del  Oslo  and  the  arsen- 
al of  La  Carraca  (steamboat-station,  see  p.  435),  founded  in  1790. 
The  latter,  3  M.  to  the  N.E.,.on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Canal  de  Sancti 
Petri,  covers,  with  its  docks  and  wharves,  an  area  of  164  acres.  The 
Pant^on  de  la  Marina  contains  the  tombs  of  naval  heroes.  —  The 
Observatorio,  to  the  W.  of  the  town,  82ft.  above  the  sea,  is  the 
southernmost  observatory  on  the  mainland  of  Europe  (34'  10"  long 
W,  of  Greenwich).   It  is  admirably  equipped  and  deserves  a  visit. 

BABDXkEB't  Spain.  28 


434  Route  46,  CADIZ.  Hotels, 

Tbe  Fuete  Zuato,  about  2^/iU.  to  the  E.  of  San  Fernando,  on  the 
road  to  Algeeiras  (for  Gibraltar;  diligence,  see  p.  495),  ia  said  to  be  an 
old  Roman  bridge,  destroyed  by  tbe  Moors  in  1262  and  rebuilt  in  tbe 
15tb  cent,  by  tbe  Alcaide  Juan  Banchez  de  Zuazo. 

At  the  Torre  Oorda  (left)  tbe  train  turns  to  tbe  N.  and  runs, 
jparallel  witb  the  road  and  the  aqueduct,  along  the  narrow^  flat,  and 
sandy  spit  that  connects  the  rocky  islet  of  Cadiz  with  the  main  part 
of  the  Isla  de  Leon.  At  the  narrowest  point  stands  Fort  Cortadura. 
93  M.  Segunda  Aguada  affords  a  view  of  the  hippodrome,  the  Ccu- 
tiUo  de  Puntales,  and  the  manufactories  on  the  £.  side  of  the  bay. 
Farther  on,  to  the  left,  are  the  sheds,  taverns,  and  vegetable-gardens 
of  the  suburb  of  San  Jose  (p.  441).  The  train  finally  skirts  the 
lofty  city  walls,  passes  the  barracks  of  Santa  Elena,  and  enters  the 
station  of  — 

95  M.  Cadiz, 


46.  Cadiz. 

Arrival.  The  Bailwai  Station  (Ettcicidn;  PI.  F,  3)  lies  to  the  E.  of 
the  town,  close  to  the  mole  and  harbour,  ffotel  Omnxbutes  and  (generally) 
Cabi  (see  below)  are  in  waiting.  The  porter  (mandadero)  accompanies 
the  vehicle  to  the  custom-house  at  the  Fuerta  del  Mar  (PL  F,  3),  where 
be  unloads  and  again  reloads  the  luggage  (inclusive  fee  1  p.  up  to  llOlbs., 
50  c.  for  each  561bs.  extra).  —  In  arriving  By  Ska  (comp.  p.  427)  a  fee 
of  50  c.  for  each  pers.  and  each  trunk  is  paid  to  the  hotero  (boatman)  for 
landing.  On  shore  the  mandadero  carries  the  luggage  to  the  custom- 
house and  hotel  for  the  same  fee  as  above.  It  is  also  possible  to  bargain 
with  the  boatmen  for  the  whole  business,  but  probably  they  will  not 
take  less  than  3-4  p. 

Hotels.  Hotel  dk  Paris  (PI.  a^  D,  2),  in  the  narrow  Calle  de  San 
Francisco,  pens,  from  12  p.  \  HSt.  db  Fbanob  (PL  b ;  D,  2),  in  the  attract- 
ive Plaza  de  Mina^  Hot.  pb  Cadiz  (PI.  c^  G,  D,  2),  Plaza  de  la  Ck>nsti- 
tucidn,  very  fair,  attentive  landlord,  pens,  from  10  p.  —  Less  pretending: 
Fonda  de  Edbopa  ,  Calle  Duque  de  Victoria,  pens.  7  p.  ^  Fonda  Suiza, 
Calle  Duque  de  Tetuan;  Fonda  db  Obientb,  Oalle  de  San  Francisco  21. 

Caf6a.  *Cafi  IngU*^  Plaza  de  la  Constitucidn ,  at  the  comer  of  the 
Calle  Duque  de  Tetuan;  *Cruz  BlcmcOy  La  Jtaliana^  both  in  the  Calle 
Duque  de  Tetuan.  —  Beer.    Karl  Mater,  Calle  Zorrilla  (PI.  D,  1). 

Post  Office  (Correo;  PI.  D,  3),  Calle  de  Sacramento  1.  —  Telegraph 
Office  (PI.  D,  1),  in  the  Alameda. 

Oaba  (chief  stands  in  the  Plaza  de  la  Gonstitucidn,  Plaza  de  Mina, 
and  Plaza  de  San  Francisco).  With  one  horse ,  per  drive,  1-3  pers.  1, 
3-4  pers.  IVs  P>i  P«r  br.  2  or  2Vs  P>  \  with  two  horses,  2,  2,  4,  or  4  p. 

Shops  (comp.  p.  xxziii).  The  best  are  in  the  Calle  Columela  (PI.  D, 
2,  3).    Cadiz  is  celebrated  for  its  guitars,  castanets,  gloves,  and  fans. 

Booksellers.  YbaHez,  Calle  Duque  de  Tetuan;  Manuel  Morulas^  Calle 
de  San  Francisco;  Litografla  Alemana  (Oeorg  Milller),  Calle  de  Murguia, 
with  good  plans  of  Cadiz  and  its  environs.  —  Photographs.  YhaSies  (see 
above);  Roeafuli,  Calle  Duque  de  Tetuan. 

Bankers.  Duarte  is  Co.,  Plaza  de  Mina;  Aramlbwro  ffermanos.  Plaza 
de  la  Constitucidn ;  Cesar  Lovental^  Calle  Isaac  Peral  6;  Loeanta  &  Sons, 
same  street,  11  and  12.  —  Koney  Changers.  Ccua  de  Cambio,  Calle  de  San 
Francisco  8  and  16. 

Baths.    BcHos  Orientales,  Calle  de  Marzal  29;  Calle  de  Vargas  Ponce  1, 


8teambt>(St$,  CADIZ.  46,  Boutt.   435 

adjoining  the  Placa  de  tfin«.  —  8m  Bfttlui.  B€Moi  del  BmI  (PI.  B,  3),  on 
the  beach  of  La  Caleta. 

Consuls.  BritiA,  A,  H.  Vecqtiarapy  Calle  3os4  Real  de  Santa  Cms  10; 
Vice-Consul,  £.  Andrewa.  —  U.  8.  A.,  John  Howell  Carroll;  Vlce-Consul, 
B.  G.  Sapneg.  —  Lloyd^s  Ag«nt,  H.  Mae  Pherton,  San  Qin^s  6. 

English  Ohuroh  Berriee.  Prayers  read  on  Sun.  momings  at  the  British 
Gonsurs  house.  —  BpanUh  Protettant  Service^  Calle  Teneria. 

Theatres.  Ttatro  Principal  (PI.  D,  2,  S),  Calle  de  Aranda  \  Teatro 
C&mieo^  Calle  de  la  Hurga,  for  'hourly  pieces'  (see  p.  67) ;  Nuevo  Cireo 
Ttatro  (PI.  B,  C,  2),  Plaza  Alfonso  Doce,  amid  the  ruins  of  the  Gran 
Teatro  burned  down  in  1881;  Teairo  del  Parqtie  Oenovet  (PI.  B,  1),  in 
summer  only.  -~  Bull  King  (Plata  d»  Torat;  PI.  E,  4),  at  the  E.  end  of 
the  Becinto  del  Sur,  rebuilt  in  1862,  with  room  for  11,000  spectators.  — 
Hippodrome,  with  horse-races  in  Aug.,  to  the  S.  of  San  Jos^,  near  the 
station  of  Segunda  Aguada  (p.  184). 

Promenades.  The  popular  resorts  in  summer  are  the  IHtua  de  Mina 
(p.  438;  band  on  Thurs.  and  Sun.,  9-11  p.m.),  the  *AUmeda  de  Apodaca 
(p.  440;  band  on  Thurs.  and  Sun.,  6.30-9  p.m.),  and  the  new  Parque  Ge- 
noveB  (p.  440).  The  high  Baluartet  (Muralla  Real;  p.  438)  to  the  E.,  with 
the  view  of  the  harbour  and  the  Bay  of  Cadiz,  and  the  Recinto  del  8ur  to 
the  8.  are  also  charming  places  for  a  stroll.  —  In  winter  promenading 
is  restricted  to  the  Pargue  Oenovee  (afternoon),  the  Plaza  de  la  Conetiiu- 
cidn  (p.  438),  and  the  Catte  del  Duque  de  Tetuan  (p.  438). 

Festivals.  The  chief  is  the  Carnival,  celebrated  on  the  three  days 
before  Ash  Wednesday  and  on  the  Sun.  following.  The  first  Sun.  is  named 
Dommffo  de  lae  P0kUas.  —  The  *ProceeeionM  (Pa$o*)  in  Passion  Week  and 
on  Corpus  Christ!  Day,  resembling  those  of  Seville  (p.  390),  are  interesting. 

Bteamboftta.  CompeOUa  TraMUidntita  (sfent,  Calle  Isabel  la  Catdlica  8), 
on  Hon.,  Wed.,  A  Frid.  for  Tangier  and  Gibraltar  (see  p.  374);  HalVt  Line 
(agents,  Calle  San  Pedro  2  and  Calle  Cuartel  de  Marina  4)  once  weekly 
fur  Gibraltar  and  Malaga  in  one  direction,  and  for  Lisbon  (and  London) 
in  the  other  (times  of  departure  very  irregular);  Coatting  Steamers  dif 
Ibarra  A  Co.^  once  weekly  to  Malaga  and  along  the  E.  coast  to 'Barcelona 
(Marseilles),  and  also  to  the  W.  to  Lisbon,  Santander,  and  Bilbao.  For 
the  steamers  to  San  Lucar  de  Barrameda  and  Seville,  eomp.  p.  425. 
The  steamer  to  ffuelva  takes  9  hrs.  Cadiz  is  also  the  starting-point  of  lines 
to  Central  and  S.  America  (Hamburg  Pacific  Line  and  Cosmo*  Line);  to  the 
Canary  Islands  (Spanish  Mail  Steamer  on  the  3rd  and  18th  of  each  month 
to  Santa  Cruz,  in  Teneriffe);  to  W.  Africa,  Manila,  and  many  other  places. 
—  Local  Steamers  (agency,  Calle  Duque  de  la  Victoria  2  duplicado)  ply 
6-8  times  a  day  between  Cadiz  and  Puerto  de  Santa  Maria  (p.  432;  7  M., 
in  1  hr. ;  fares  1  p.  26,  70  c. ;  a  charming  trio),  and  thrice  daily  to  Puerto 
Real  and  La  Carraca  (p.  433;  fares  1  p.,  6oe.;  the  morning  boat  calls 
also  at  the  Dique  in  Trocadero,  p.  433).  These  boats  start  at  the  Muelle 
(PI.  F,  3).  No  return-tickets  are  issued.  The  hours  of  depArture  vary  daily 
and  may  be  ascertained  at  the  office  or  in  the  papers.  Tbe  inner  bay  is 
always  calm,  but  if  the  sea  becomes  rough  we  can  return  from  Puerto  de 
Santa  Maria  by  train  (p.  432). 

Diligences  leave  San  Fernando  (p.  433;  V*  ^'  ^7  '<^)  morning  and 
evening  for  (14-16  hrs.)  Algedras  (Gibraltar),  running  via  Chiclana^  V^er^ 
and  Tarifa.    Tickets  should  be  taken  in  Cadiz. 

Principal  Attractions  (one  day).  Morning:  Torre  de  Vigia  (p.  438); 
CaUe  del  Duque  de  Tetuan  (p.  438) ;  Plata  de  Mina  and  Picture  ChOkrp  (p.  438). 
Afternoon:  Muralla  del  Mar^Tp.  488);  Alameda  de  Apodaca  (p.  440);  Parous 
Oenoves  (p.  440) ;  Recinto  del  Sur^  with  the  Capuchin  Convent  (p.  440). 

Cadiz  (generally  pronounced  Cadi  by  Andalusians) ,  a  city  of 
60,000  inhab.,  the  capital  of  a  province,  the  see  of  a  bishop,  and  a 
strong  fortress,  is  most  pictnresqnely  situated  on  a  lov  rock  of  shell 

28* 


436  Route  46,  CADIZ.  Situation, 

limestone,  surrounded  by  the  sea  and  connected  with  the  mainland 
merely  hy  a  narrow  strip  of  sand  (p.  434).  The  rock  has  two  flat- 
topped  elevations,  the  larger  of  which  lies  to  the  N. ;  the  depres- 
sion between  them  is  traversed  by  theCalles  de  la  Rosa,  Gereria,  and 
de  San  Jnan  (PI.  B,  G,  D,  3).  With  the  exception  of  the  crooked 
lanes  near  the  cathedral  (p.  441),  the  town  makes  a  thoroughly 
modern  impression.  It  was  rebuilt  on  a  new  plan  after  the  cata- 
strophe of  1596  (p.  441),  and  though  it  has  begun  to  decline,  it  still 
retains  its  former  beauty,  elegance,  and  cleanliness.  The  houses, 
almost  invariably  provided  with  Vievf-iowen  (mkcidores}  rising  over 
their  flat  roofs,  are  lavishly  covered  with  whitewash,  so  that  from  a 
distance  the  town  seems  to  be  made  of  plaster  of  Paris;  the  Spaniards 
liken  it  to  a  ^dish  of  silver'  (una  copa  de  plata),  De  Amicis  whimsi- 
cally asserts  that  the  best  impression  of  Gadiz  would  be  given  *'by 
writing  the  word  *white'  with  a  white  pencil  on  blue  paper".  The 
fronts  of  the  houses  are  sometimes  gaily  painted ,  and  there  is  a 
balcony  before  every  window.  Not  even  in  Seville  is  seen  such  a 
lavish  use  of  marble,  generally  from  Italy,  in  staircases,  courts,  and 
haUs.  The  limited  area  of  the  site  forbade  the  laying  out  of  broad 
streets  or  the  construction  of  extensive  buildings.  Hence  the  patio 
of  Seville  disappears,  and  the  houses  tower  into  the  air,  while  we 
ascend  to  the  flat  roofs  (azotSasJ  to  And  a  second  city  of  ^mirad ores' 
above  the  city  of  houses.  The  magical  charm  of  Cadiz  is  farther 
enhanced  by  its  beautiful  parks,  the  illimitable  expanse  of  its  ocean- 
view,  the  fresh  sea-breezes,  and  the  absence  of  wheeled  traffic  and 
street-noises.  Its  by-name  of  La  Joyosa  y  Culta  is  fairly  earned  by 
the  pleasant  manners  of  its  inhabitants  \  and  its  shape  and  situation 
justify  the  name  of  the  'Spanish  Venice'. 

The  business-life  is  concentrated  in  the  harbour,  to  the  E.  of 
the  town.  The  large  steamers  lie  in  the  open  roads  and  form  a  fine 
background  to  the  harbour.  On  the  N.,  W.,  and  S.  the  town  is  sur- 
rounded by  walls,  30-50  ft.  high  and  19  ft.  thick,  the  foot  of 
which  is  continually  washed  by  the  billows  of  the  Atlantic.  Project- 
ing reefs  are  provided  with  fortifications  and  iighthouses.  The  Cor- 
ralea  on  the  S.  and  the  Coehinos  and  Puercas  on  the  N.  are  dangerous 
rocks  rising  from  the  sea. 

The  Climate  of  Cadiz  is  damp  and  warm.  The  land-wind, 
known  as  Et  Medina  from  the  town  of  Medina  Sidonia,  affects  but 
one-third  of  the  bay,  and  that  mainly  in  winter.  In  spring  the  moist 
ViraziSn  and  other  sea-breezes  prevail.  In  spite  of  the  proximity 
of  the  sea,  the  summer  is  often  extremely  warm,  and  the  rotting 
sea-weed  makes  the  main  promenades  unpleasant.  The  annual  rate 
of  mortality  (44.6  per  thousand)  is  very  high,  owing  to  the  bad 
water  and  inadequate  drainage. 

The  great  difference  between  ebb  and  flow  at  Cadiz  was  observed 

the  ancients.   It  amounts  in  ordinary  tides  to  6  ft.  and  in  neap- 

$8  to  nearly  10  ft 


C  A  D  »  Z 

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HUtory.  CADIZ.  46.  Route.   437 

History.  The  aneient  hiatory  of  Cadis  Sa  very  obscure.  The  tin  of 
the  Gassiteridea  and  the  amber  of  the  Baltic  found  their  chief  market  in 
the  Phoenician  Qadir  Ccastle' ,  ^fastneas") ,  which  was  long  regarded  by 
other  nations  as  the  ^ultima  terra\  a  land  of  mystery.  The  Carthaginians 
occupied  the  town  about  B.C.  601  and  from  it  overran  the  entire  peninaula. 
It  waa  at  Gadir  that  Mago  embarked  for  Africa  in  B.C.  206  with  the  ahattered 
remnants  of  the  Carthaginian  army,  abandoning  Iberia  to  the  Bomans.  The 
inhabitants  of  the  Roman  Oades^  the  Jvlia  Auffvsta  Oaditana,  received  from 
Ceeaar  (B.C.  49)  the  rights  of  Roman  citizenahip  and  posaeaaed  large  ahip- 
ping  wharvea.  The  town  waa  the  terminua  of  the  *Via  Auguata\  which  began 
in  S.  France  and  paaaed  Yitoria,  Leon,  Astorga,  Salamanca,  Ciudad  Bodrigo, 
H^rida,  and  Seville  (Italica).  In  the  time  of  Augnatus  Cadis  contained 
500  EquiteSy  a  greater  number  than  any  other  town  except  Rome  itaelf  and 
Padua.  Its  cuisine  was  aa  famous  aa  its  dancing-girla,  the  improhae  Qadi- 
tanae  of  the  Romana,  atill  known  as  ^lo$  meu  salerosos  citerpot  de  EspcMa'. 
Martial  and  Juvenal  speak  of  it  as  the  city  of  Venus  rather  than  of  Diana. 
In  the  middle  agea  Cadiz,  the  DJeztrat-Eddi*  of  the  Arabs,  disappeara  almost 
wholly  from  the  pages  of  history.  When  Alfonso  the  Learned  captured 
it  in  1262,  he  had  to  repeople  it  almost  entirely.  Dante  does  not  mention 
Cadiz  in  his  description  of  the  voyage  of  Odysseus  (comp.  p.  892).  Ita 
modem  revival  begina  with  the  discovery  of  America  and  Ihe  anchoring 
of  the  'silver  fleeta'  in  ita  harbour.  The  'Silver  Road'  (Camino  de  la  Plata) 
led  from  Cadiz,  vi&  Seville,  Carpio,  Adamuz,  and  Conquiata,  to  Ciudad 
Real  (p.  iB&)  and  beyond.  Cadiz  waa  frequently  attacked  by  the  Barbary 
coraairs  in  the  16th  cent,  (especially  in  16o3  and  1574),  but  repelled  them 
on  every  occaaion.  Admiral  Drake  burned  the  shipping  in  the  harbour  in 
1587.  In  1596  Lord  Euex  deatroyed  13  Spaniah  men-of-war  and  40  large 
American  g»]leons  in  the  harbour  of  Cadiz  and  plundered  the  town  so 
ruthlessly,  that  almost  total  bankruptcy  waa  the  result.  Later  attempta 
of  the  Engliah,  who  had  not  yet  cast  their  eyes  on  Gibraltar,  were  unsuc- 
cessful. The  city  recovered  ita  proaperity,  and  aa  late  as  1770  it  was  still 
a  wealthier  place  than  London.  The  value  of  the  gold  and  silver  annually 
imported  from  America  amounted  at  this  period  to  about  126,000,0(X)  p. 
(5,000,000/.).  The  later  wars,  and  especially  the  loss  of  the  Spanish  col- 
onies, ruined  Cadiz  once  more ;  but  the  real  glory  of  the  city  begins  in 
this  period  of  material  misfortune.  On  June  14th,  1808,  the  Spaniarda  cap- 
tured a  French  fleet  under  Boselly  in  the  inner  bay,  and  from  Feb.  4th, 
1810,  they  defended  the  town  vigorously  under  the  Duke  of  Albuqverqtie 
against  the  French  army,  until  the  aiege  waa  raiaed  by  the  Duke  of  Well- 
ington on  Aug.  2nd,  1812.  It  was  during  this  siege  that  the  Cortes  dia- 
cuased  and  issued  the  famous  liberal  constitution  of  March  19th,  1812  (see 
p.  438).  On  Jan.  1st,  1820,  Lfeut.  Col.  Riego  raised  the  flag  of  revolution 
in  the  lala  de  Leon  (p.  433),  with  a  view  to  aecuiing  the  renewal  of  this 
constitution.  A  French  army  under  the  Due  d'AngoulSme  appeared  before 
Cadiz  in  1823,  and,  after  overcoming  the  gallant  resistance  of  the  Troca- 
dero  (p.  483),  captured  the  town  on  Aug.  31st,  1823.  The  Cortes  liberated 
Ferdinand  YII.,  whom  they  had  brought  with  them  to  Cadiz*,  and  the 
city  was  occupied  by  Bourmont  till  1824.  Since  thia  period  Cadiz,  like 
Malaga  (see  p.  a24),  has  ever  been  on  the  side  of  the  reformer  and  the  revol- 
utionary. 

The  coat-of-arms  of  Cadiz  consists  of  a  figure  oi  Hercvies,  the  Phoenician 
Melkart,  overcoming  two  lions.  The  motto  is  ^Hercules  fundatoi'  Oadivm 
dominatorqfte\  The  Christian  tutelara  of  the  city  are  S8.  Servanda  and  German. 

On  leaTlng  the  lailway-station  or  on  disembarking  from  the 
steamer,  we  first  find  ourselves  on  the  Muelle  (PI.  F,  3),  a  broad 
granite  quay,  affording  a  fine  panorama  of  the  harbour-side  of  the 
city,  the  houses  of  which  rise  over  tbe  MuraUa  Real,  In  the  middle 
projects  the  Baluarte  de  San  Antonio  (PI.  £,  2),  with  the  Aduana 
(custom-house).  At  the  N.  extremity  are  the  Punta  and  BaterCa  de 
San  FiUfpe  (Pi.  E,  F,  1).  —  The  entrance  to  the  town  on  this  side 


438   Route  46,  CADIZ.  Torre  djt  Vig€a. 

is  the  Puerta  del  Mar  (PI.  E,  F,  3),  inscribed  'Dominm  eustodiat 
introitum  tuum\  This  opens  on  the  Plaza  de  Isabel  Segunda  (PL 
£,  3),  D^th  the  Ccuas  Consutoriales  or  AyuntamiefUo. 

From  the  N.W.  conier  of  the  plaza  the  Calle  del  Dnqae  de  la 
Victoria  (formerly  Calle  Nueva)  and  its  continuation,  the  Calle  de 
San  Francisco  (PL  £,  D,  2),  lead  to  the  Plaza  de  San  Francisco 
(see  below).  It  is  better,  however,  to  ascend  by  a  flight  of  steps 
adjoining  the  gate  to  the  top  of  the  *]Ciiralla  Beal  (yiews)  and 
follow  it  to  the  N.  to  the  Aduana  (PI.  £,  2),  built  in  1773.  Here 
we  leave  the  walls  and  proceed  to  the  W.  through  the  Calle  del 
Consulado  Yiejo  to  th<$  triangular  Plaza  de  San  Francisco,  which  is 
adjoined  on  the  S.W.  by  the  Plaza  de  Loreto  (PI.  D,  2).  —  Fiona 
this  point  the  short  Calle  de  Vargas  Ponce  (p.  439)  leads  to  the 
N.W.  to  the  Plaza  de  Mina  (see  below).  To  the  S.W.  is  the  narrow 
andcurring  Calle  de  Sagasta  (PL  D,  C,  2,  3),  which  Intersects  the 
Calle  del  Duque  de  Tetuan  (see  below)  and  traverses  the  whole  city 
as  far  as  the  church  of  the  Capuchins  (p.  440).  We  turn  to  the  le^ 
from  the  Calle  de  Sagasta  into  the  Calle  Gayar  Pino  and  then  to  the 
right  into  the  short  Calle  de  Bulas,  containing  the  — 

Torre  de  Yigia  (PI.  D,  2, 3)  or  Tavira^  the  watch-tower  of  Cadiz 
(100  ft.  high),  vhere  all  arriving  and  passing  ships  are  signalled. 
It  stands  almost  in  the  centre  of  the  city  and  on  the  highest  point 
(40  ft.)  of  the  N.  plateau.  The  top,  reached  by  161  steps  (fee  to 
keeper  30-50  c),  commands  an  unimpeded  *View  of  the  city,  the 
ocean,  the  Bay  of  Cadiz,  and  the  mainland  from  Rota  (p.  157)  to 
Chiclana  and  Medina  Sidonia.  Beyond  are  the  Ceiro  de  San  Cristobal 
(p.  370)  and  the  Sierra  de  los  Gazules  (p.  373). 

A  little  to  the  W.  of  this  tower  is  the  Obatorio  de  San  Felipe 
Nbbi  (PL  C,  2),  the  meeting-place,  as  recorded  by  a  tablet  on  the 
W.  side,  of  the  Cortes  'que  formaron  el  codlgo  de  1812,  fundamento 
de  las  libertades  patrias,  que  abolieron  el  inicuo  tribunal  de  la 
inquisicion  y  que  con  su  energia  defendieron  el  pais  contra  las 
huestes  de  Francia' .  The  interior  contains  a  Conception  by  MuriUo 
(altar-piece)  and  a  God  the  Father  by  Clemente  de  Torres, 

We  now  return  by  the  Calle  de  Sagasta  to  the  Calle  del  Duqus 
DE  Tetuan  (PI.  D,  2;  formerly  CalU  Ancha),  the  busiest  and  most 
animated  street  in  the  city,  which  ends  on  the  N.W.  at  the  Plaza 
de  la  ConstUuciihi  (PL  C,  D,  2^  formerly  the  Plaza  de  San  Antonio), 
a  large  square  planted  with  trees.  To  the  N.E.  lies  the  shady 
♦Plaza  de  Mina  (PI.  D,  1,  2),  formerly  the  garden  of  the  Capuchin 
Convent  and  named  after  the  Spanish  Revolutionary  general.  On  the 
S.E.  side  of  this  square  stands  the  — 

Acadimis  de  Bellas  Artes  (PI.  D,  2),  which  contains  a  valuable 
Picture  Gallery  and  a  collection  of  easts.  It  is  open  on  week- 
days 9-3  (in  summer  7-4),  on  Sun.  and  holidays  10-3  (good  cata- 
logue of  1876,  2  p.). 


Aeadl  de  Bellas  ArUs.         CADIZ.  46.  Route,   439 

Room  I.  Riglit  Wall :  59.  School  of  Van  Ih/cfc,  Christ  mourned 
over  by  an  angel;  17.  Coatanziy  St.  Bruno;  ♦OS.  Cologne  Schoolj 
Virgin  and  Child;  33.  School  of  Leon,  da  Vinci,  Virgin  and  Child 
with  an  angel ;  32.  Jac.  Jordaens,  The  four  Latin  Fathers  of  the 
Church ;  53.  Alonao  Miguel  Tobar,  Copy  of  Murillo's  Virgen  de 
la  Faja  (formerly  in  the  Pal.  Santelmo  at  Seville,  p.  418) ;  4.  Jac, 
Bassano^  Christ  driving  the  money-changers  from  the  Temple.  — 
End  Wall:  25,  24.  Herrera  the  Elder,  SS.  Paul  and  Peter;  7. 
Alonso  Cano,  Virgin  and  Child  appearing  to  St.  Francis ;  2.  Jac. 
BasmnOj  Christ  in  the  house  of  the  rich  Pharisee.  —  Left  Wall : 
23.  J.  D.  de  Heem,  Still-life ;  ♦39.  Unknown  Master,  Last  Judg- 
ment ;  16.  Corrado,  Virgin  and  Child ;  no  number,  Bubens  (?), 
Holy  Family;  27.  Luca  Giordano,  St.  Michael.  Next  comes  a  series 
of  pictures  by  Zurbaran,  from  the  Cartuja  of  Jertfz  (p.  430)  ;  66. 
John  the  Baptist;  67.  St.  Lawrence;  80.  St.  Matthew;  75,  76. 
Pair  of  angels  with  censers  (turibulij ;  *63.  The  Portiuncula,  an 
altar-piece  from  the  Capuchin  church  of  Jer^z,  symbolizing  the 
rebuilding  of  the  church  of  Portiuncula  at  Assisi  by  St.  Francis ; 
♦64.  St.  Bruno  at  prayer;  65.  Pentecost;  68-74.  Saints  of  the 
Carthusian  order ;  79,  77,  78.  SS.  Mark,  John,  and  Luke.  —  ^34. 
Murillo,  Ecce  Homo,  from  the  Capuchin  convent  at  Cadiz  (p.  440). 
Room  II  (modern  pictures).  Right  Wall:  151.  Alej.  Ferrant, 
Murillo's  fall  from  the  scaffolding  (p.  440);  0,  Abbati,  125.  Bal- 
cony of  the  Signoria  at  Florence,  127.  Approach  to  the  Chapel  of 
the  Medici  at  Florence,  124.  Interior  of  a  choir;  no  number,  Buiz- 
lana,  Canal  in  Venice ;  153.  Ferrant,  Victory  of  Cadiz  over  the 
Morocco  pirates.  —  End  Wall :  200.  Bamon  Bodriguez,  Junta  of 
Cadiz  in  1810  communicating  to  the  people  the  answer  given  to 
Marshal  Soult's  demand  for  the  surrender  of  the  town  ('la  ciudad 
de  Cadiz,  flel  a  los  principios  que  ha  jurado,  no  reconoce  otro  Rey 
que  el  Senor  Don  Fernando  Septimo').  —  Left  Wall :  ♦135.  Mari- 
ano Belmonte,  Sierra  de  C6rdoba;  185,  186.  After  Velazquez,  Las 
Meninas,  Surrender  of -Breda  (pp.  76,  77);  160.  Bafael  Qarcta 
CHispaleto^),  Portrait  of  a  man;  166.  J.  Oarcia  Chieano,  Copy  of 
Tobar's  portrait  of  Murillo,  with  (according  to  the  catalogue)  *poco 
poblados'  (thin)  *bigote'  (moustache)  and  *perilla'  ('pear-shaped', 
i.e.  pointed,  beard);  no  number,  Meifren,  View  of  Barcelona ;  Vinie- 
gra,  Burial  of  Isabella  the  Catholic ;  Alddz,  Flower-girl ;  E.  P. 
Valluerca,  Washerwomen. 

A  few  yards  to  the  S.E.  of  the  Plaza  de  Mina,  on  the  left  side 
of  the  Calle  de  Vargas  Ponce,  stands  the  Museo  Arqaeoldgico 
(PI.  D,  2),  opened  in  1887  (open  daily,  10-3;  fee  60  c.  j  no  cata- 
logue).   In  front  of  it  is  a  small  garden. 

The  Main  Rooh  contains  neolithic  tools  and  weapons  and  other  pro- 
hiatoric  objects;  Greek  and  Roman  coins,  terracottas,  glasa,  and  inscrip- 
tions; Roman  architectural  fragments;  Moorish  capitals  and  coins;  medr 
ieeval  Christian  and  modern  objects  of  art.  —  In  the  Oabden  and  in  a 
SiDB  Room  are  some  Tonibt  and  their  Content*  from  the  Phoenician  Necropolis 


440   BauU  46,  CADIZ.  La  CaUta, 

of  Cadiz.  The  mo«t  imporUnt  is  »  *Mar^  Barcophoffut^  found  in  1887 
at  the  Ponta  de  la  Vaca,  near  Cadiz,  with  a  bearded  figure  of  the  deceased 
on  the  lid  and  a  weU-preserred  skeleton  inside. 

A  little  way  to  the  N.E.  of  the  Plaza  de  Mina  is  the  new  •Ala- 
meda de  Apodaca  (PI.  G,  D,  1),  aifording  a  fine  view  of  the  N.  side 
of  the  bay.  In  the  sea  are  the  rocks  (p.  436)  known  as  the  Coehinos 
(left)  and  the  Puerccu  (right).  —  We  now  proceed  to  the  N.W., 
passing  (left)  the  church  of  Nuestra  Senora  del  Cdrmen  (PI.  G,  1 ; 
with  the  tomh  of  Adm.  Grarina,  the  commander  of  the  Spanish  fleet 
at  Trafalgar)  and  (right)  the  Baterid  de  Candelaria^  to  the  extensive 
♦Parque  Genovei  (PI.  B,  C,  1,  2),  laid  out  in  1892.  The  large 
huildings  on  its  landward  side  serve  military  purposes.  The  middle 
of  the  park  is  occupied  by  a  summer- theatre  (p.  435),  a  palm 
garden,  and  a  grotto  with  a  terrace  commanding  an  open  view  of 
the  sea.  Great  pyramids  of  cannon-balls  remind  us  that  we  are  in 
a  fortress. 

The  Calle  de  Santa  Rosalia,  beginning  opposite  the  grotto,  leads 
to  the  Plaza  Fragela  (PI.  C,  2)  and  to  the  small  Jardin  Botanico 
(PI.  B,  2),  which  contains  a  fine  array  of  sub-tropical  plants  and  a 
dragon-tree  (p.  378)  600  years  old.  On  the  S.W.  side  of  the  Plaza 
Fragela  stands  the  Circo  Teatro  (p.  435).  A  gateway  opposite  the 
theatre  leads  to  the  Military  Hospital ,  with  the  parish-church  of 
Santo  Angela  and  (right)  to  the  Hospital  Central  (comp.  PI.  B,  2),  the 
seat  of  the  medical  faculty  of  the  University  of  Seville  (p.  411).  — 
Not  far  off  is  the  Hospicio  Provincial  (PI.  B,  3j  entr.  in  the  Calle 
de  Santa  Elena),  a  large  institution  for  the  sick  and  orphaned,  built 
by  Torcuato  Cayon. 

On  the  bay  of  La  Caleta  (PI.  A,  3)  lie  the  Bafios  del  Real  (p.  435). 
To  the  N.  of  this  bay  is  the  Castillo  de  Santa  Catalina  (PI.  A,  2,  3). 
To  the  S.,  on  a  rocky  spit  projecting  far  into  the  ocean  and  about 
8/4  M.  beyond  the  Puerta  de  la  Caleta  (PI.  B,  4),  are  the  CasiiUo  de 
San  Sebastidn  and  the  Faro  de  San  Sehastidn ,  a  lighthouse  visible 
for  20  nautical  miles  (visitors  not  admitted).  Numerous  'pot-holes' 
(olios)  have  been  worn  in  the  shell-limestone  rock  by  the  action  of 
the  waves. 

From  the  Puerta  de  la  Caleta  we  proceed,  passing  the  Meteorolog- 
ical Station  (Mare6grafo  y  Estacidn  MeteoroWgica)  and  the  Presidio^ 
to  the  shadeless  *B6cinto  del  Sur  (PL  B-E,  4),  which  is  generally 
lined  with  files  of  patient  anglers,  at  whose  feet  the  sea  tosses  and 
roars.  The  fish  are  attracted  by  the  refuse  poured  into  the  sea  through 
the  openings  left  in  the  wall  for  the  purpose. 

To  the  left  lies  the  secularized  Capuchin  Convent  (PI.  C,  4), 
now  used  as  a  Manicomio  or  insane  asylum.  Its  small  church  of 
Santa  Catalina  (entr.  in  the  court  to  the  right ;  ring  at  the  door  to 
the  left;  fee  50  c.)  contains,  as  its  high- altar-piece,  a  *B6trothal 
of  St.  Catharine  by  Mtmllo,  the  last  work  of  the  master  and  one  of 
his  best.  In  painting  it  he  had  a  fatal  fall  from  the  scaffold,  and  the 


Caihedrals.  CADIZ.  46,  RouU.  441 

pictare  was  finished  after  his  death  (April  3rd,  1682)  by  Meneses 
Osorio,  On  the  left  wall  are  a  Conception  and  a  St.  Francis  with  the 
stigmata,  two  small  works  of  inferior  valae,  also  ascribed  to  Murillo. 

As  we  continue  to  follow  the  Recinto  del  Sur  towards  the  W., 
we  have  a  fine  view  of  the  S.  front  of  Cadiz,  with  the  cathedral,  the 
bull-ring,  the  suburb  of  San  Jos^,  and  the  Castillo  de  la  Cortadura 
(p.  434).  In  the  sea,  off  San  Jos^,  lie  the  rocks  named  the  Cor- 
rales  (p.  436).  —  The  Calle  del  Puerto  Ohico  leads  to  the  left  to  the 
Mercado  (PI.  D,  3),  the  chief  market  of  the  city,  presenting  a  very 
animated  scene  in  the  early  morning.  This  is  adjoined  to  the  N.  by 
the  sharply  inclined  and  much-neglected  Derribo  de  lo8  Dtscalzos 
(PI.  D,  3).  To  the  E.  of  this  point  lies  the  palm-planted  ♦Plaza. 
DE  Castelab  (PI.  D,  E,  3),  whence  we  proceed  to  the  S.  (right) 
through  the  Calle  de  Cobos  to  the  Plaza  de  la  Catedral. 

The  Cathedral  (PI.  D,  E,  3, 4),  or  Catedral  Nueva,  begun  in  1722 
by  Vicente  Acero  and  Torcuato  Cayorij  was  completed  in  1832-38  by 
Bishop  Domingo  de  Silos  Monno^  a  statue  of  whom  faces  the  front. 
The  older  parts  are  built  of  shell -limestone,  the  newer  of  Jer^z 
sandstone. 

The  Intebiob,  278  ft.  long  and  197  ft.  wide,  with  a  large  dome  170  ft. 
high,  ia  not  very  happy  in  its  proportions  and  is  farther  spoiled  by  being 
partly  lighted  by  panes  of  cradely  coloured  glass.  The  vanlting  produces 
a  strong  echo,  which  is  almost  overwhelming  when  the  organ  plays.  The 
fine  8illeria  in  the  coro,  brought  from  the  Cartuja  of  Seville  (p.  420),  \% 
by  Pedro  Duque  Comejo,  a  jpupil  of  Boldan.  The  altar  was  in  pert  a  gift 
of  Queen  Isabella  II.  (186B).  Among  other  content?  of  interest  are  a 
Conception  by  ClemerUe  de  Torrety  a  statue  of  St.  Scrvandus  by  Lw'$a  Roldan^ 
a  St.  Bruno  by  Monia%6t^  and  some  processional  crosses.  —  Below  the 
cathedral  is  the  Pontedn,  or  vaults,  with  extraordinarily  flat  vaulting.  The 
E.  Bell  Totoer^  on  the  main  front,  commands  a  charming  view  (ascent  by 
an  inclined  plane  ^  30  c). 

The  Catedral  Vieja,  or  Parroquia  del  Sagrario  (PI.  E,  4),  In  the 
small  plaza  to  the  E.  of  the  New  Cathedral,  originally  erected  by 
Alfonso  the  Learned  in  the  13th  cent.,  was  almost  entirely  destroyed 
in  the  siege  of  1696,  after  which  it  was  rebuilt  in  its  present  un- 
pretentious Renaissance  form.  The  church  also  bore  the  name  of 
Santa  Cruz  sohre  las  Aguas  ^  because  the  only  spring  in  Cadiz  rose 
below  its  high-altar.  Some  of  the  paintings  are  by  Cornelius  Schott. 
The  altar  to  the  left  of  the  high-altar  has  a  good  relief  of  the  Corona- 
tion of  the  Virgin.  A  side-room  to  the  left  contains  a  silver  cus- 
todia  by  Antonio  Suarez  (1648-64),  said  to  be  the  largest  in  Spain 
(25  ft.  high). 

The  two  cathedrals  are  supposed  to  occupy  the  site  of  the  famous 
temple  of  the  Phosniclan  Hercules  and  of  the  Roman  citadel,  while 
the  high-lying  ground  to  the  S.E.,  with  its  narrow  lanes,  was  prob- 
ably the  site  of  the  earliest  settlement  at  Cadiz.  On  its  S.  margin 
lie  the  BuU  Ring,  the  Prison  (CdrcelJ ,  and  the  Slaughter  House 
{Matadero;  PL  F,  3").  The  E.  side  is  bounded  by  the  high  BaluarUs 
de  Santiago  (PI.  F,  4)  and  de  los  Negros,  which  afford  splendid  view 


442  BouU46.  CADIZ. 

To  tbe  S.E.,  between  (right)  th^  Cvartel  de  8cm  Room  and  (left)  the 
CuarM  de  Santa  Elena,  U  the  Puerto  de  Tlerra  (PL  F,  4),  leading  to  the 
Eztramuroi,  a  aandy  district  with  villas  and  gardens.  By  keeping  to  the 
left  outside  the  gate  we  reach  (Vs  H.)  the  Barrio  de  San  Severiano^  with 
the  Buena  VUia  and  the  Venta  de  Erita%a,  two  restaurants  commanding 
charming  views.  Adjacent  are  the  large  wharves  of  the  Astitterot  de  Vea- 
Murguia.  By  keeping  to  the  right  beyond  the  gate  we  reach  (1  M.)  the 
Barrio  de  San  JoU,  with  nnmerous  taverns,  the  large  CememUrio  Oeneral  (to 
the  W.,  close  to  the  sea),  and  the  Protestant  Cementerio  JnglU  (to  the  S., 
adjoining  the  railway). 


YI.  ESTREMADURA. 


47.  From  Madrid  to  Torre  das  Vargens  (Lisbon)  via  Pla- 
sencia,  Arroyo  de  Malpartida,  and  Valencia  de  Alcantara  446 

Talavera  de  la  Reina.  From  yavalmoral  to  Plasencia 
via  Ynste,  416.  —  From  "Navalmoral  to  Trujillo  and  Gua- 
dalupe, 447.  —  From  Plasencia  to  the  Jurdes  and  Ba- 
tuecas,  449.  —  From  Arroyo  de  Halpartida  to  Alcan- 
tara, 450. 
From  Arroyo  de  Malpartida  to  Caceres  and  M^rida   .    .  451 

48.  From  Madrid  to  Badajoz  (Torre  das  Vargens,  Lisbon) 

vi&  Ciudad  Real,  Almorcbon,  and  MMda  ......  452 

Almaden,  453. 

49.  From  Seville  to  M^rida  (Badajoz,  Lisbon)  via  Tocina 
and  Zafra 458 


Estremadura,  once  the  Extrema  Terra  of  Spain,  and  limited  since 
1833  to  the  two  provinces  of  Cdceres  and  Badajoz^  with  an  area  of 
16,132  sq.  M.  and  a  population  of  808,700  souls ,  consists  of  a 
tableland,  watered  by  the  Tagtis  and  the  Ouadiana.  To  the  N.  it  is 
separated  from  Leon  and  Old  Castile  by  the  -Sierra  de  Oata  (6690  ft.), 
the  plateau  of  Bejar,  and  the  Sierra  deOredos  (8730  ft.),  while  on  the 
S,  it  is  parted  from  Andalusia  by  the  (here)  gentle  slopes  of  the  Sierra 
Morena.  To  the  E.  and  W.  lie  New  Castile  and  Portugal.  Estre- 
madwa  Alta  (province  of  Caceres),  or  the  basin  of  the  Tagus,  is 
separated  from  Estremadura  Baja  (Badajoz),  or  basin  of  the  Guadiana, 
by  the  Sierra  de  Quadalupe  (5695  ft). 

For  the  disposal  of  its  products  nature  points  Estremadura  to 
the  estuaries  of  its  two  great  rivers,  i.e.  to  Portugal ;  and  in  antiquity 
It  actually  formed  part  of  the  Roman  province  of  Lusitania  (p.  504), 
with  Mtfrida  for  its  capital.  The  course  of  history  has,  however, 
decreed  otherwise.  The  political  boundary  cut  off  the  district  from 
the  sea.  The  expulsion  of  the  Moors  and  the  excessive  emigration 
to  America,  in  the  conquest  of  which  Cortes,  Pizarro^  and  other 
'Estremefios'  played  a  prominent  part,  robbed  it  of  the  best  of  its 
inhabitants.  Those  who  remained  at  home  fell  behind  in  the  race  of 
civilisation.  The  climate,  naturally  arid,  was  made  worse  by  the 
felling  of  the  mountain-forests.  "Want  of  water  reduced  large 
tracts  of  fertile  soil  to  barren  Heaths  (JaraUs,  TomiUaresJj  used  as 
pasture  by  the  flocks  of  neighbouring  provinces.  In  Upper  Estre- 
madura mile  after  mile  of  undulating  pasture-land,  overgrown  by 
the  gum-cistus  (comp.  p.  606)  and  grazed  by  innumerable  sheep 
(menno$y  ganadoa),  may  be  passed  without  sight  of  a  house  or  vil- 
lage. Tillage  is  confined  to  occasional  small  patches  of  soil  enclosed 
by  stone  dykes.  In  Caceres  and  Lower  Estremadura  Agbicultukb 
(grain  and  leguminous  plants)  has  the  upper  hand,  but  it  is  exposed 
to  peculiar  dangers  from  the  inundations  (avenidaa)  of  the  riverr 

28/29 


444  ESTREMADURA. 

and  from  the  ravages  of  the  locasta  (langostaa)  that  breed  in  the 
waste  districts.  Wine,  olives,  figs,  and  almonds  are  also  produced. 
Mulberries,  for  the  silk-culture,  flourish  in  districts  where  irrigation 
is  practicable,  such  as  the  hills  near  Plasencia.  which  are  cultiyated 
in  terraces  like  those  of  Valencia  (p.  242).  —  The  Swinb  of  Estre- 
madura,  fed  chiefly  on  sweet  acorns  {heUottu ;  see  p.  277),  are  very 
numerous,  and  its  hamd  (jamonei)  are  considered  the  best  in  Spain. 

From  remote  antiquity  Estremadura  has  been  visited  in  winter 
by  MiGBATOET  Flocks  of  Sheep  (Manades  Trcuhumantes),  which 
descend  in  autumn  from  the  plateau  of  Leon  and  Castile  (p.  7) 
and  traverse  the  various  feeding-places  according  to  a  definite  system 
known  as  the  Mesta.  To  settle  disputes  between  the  permanent  in- 
habitants of  the  soil  and  the  owners  or  shepherds  of  these  migratory 
herds  a  special  court  named  the  Coruejo  de  la  Mesta  was  established 
in  1526,  with  the  king  as  *Primb  Merino'  or  president.  This  court 
was  not  abolished  till  1834.  At  present  the  shepherds  are  permit- 
ted to  enter  Estremadura  in  October,  and  a  strip  of  pasture-laud, 
90  paces  wide,  must  be  left  on  each  side  of  the  highroad  for  the 
use  of  the  wandering  herds.  Each  flock  usually  consists  of  about 
10,000  sheep,  under  a  head-shepherd  (mayoral^  capaiaat),  assisted  by 
50  shepherds  (paatores)  and  a  peculiar  race  of  strong  wolf-hounds 
(perro$  de  presa).  The  shepherds  carry  long  crooks  and  most  of  them 
also  have  guns.  Their  clo^ng  consists  of  a  doublet,  knee-breeches, 
and  leathern  gaiters.  Over  this  they  wear  jackets  of  sheepekin, 
with  the  woolly  side  out,  and  curious  forked  aprons  of  leather  or 
sheepskin  fastened  round  the  thighs  with  straps.  Simdals  or  shape- 
less shoes  and  a  broad-brimmed  and  peaked  hat  of  felt  complete 
the  costume  of  these  sunburnt  and  half-savage  mortals.  The  wool 
of  the  migratory  sheep  is  said  to  be  of  a  finer  quality  than  that  of 
those  kept  at  home ;  but  the  animals  must  be  carefully  debarred  from 
tracts  where  saline  plants  grow.  In  Sept.  the  sheep  are  smeared  with 
a  kind  of  red  clay  from  Mazarron  (p.  245).  The  shearing  (esquUmo) 
takes  place  in  May.  The  average  cut  from  each  animal  is  about  Gibs. 

The  TEA.DB  and  Inbustbt  of  Estremadura  are  inconsiderable. 
Its  rich  MINEBA.L  TBBA.SUBBS  (Irou,  copper,  etc.)  have  hardly  been 
touched,  though  the  construction  of  the  great  railways  along  Ihe  Ta- 
gus  and  the  Guadiana  promise  a  speedy  improvement  in  this  field. 

Most  TouBiSTS  content  themselves  with  a  visit  to  MSrida^  with 
its  Roman  remains.  Of  other  towns  on  the  railway  Pto«cncia,  Bcidajoz^ 
Zdfra^  and  Cdceres  are  of  interest  for  their  buildings  of  the  age  of 
the  Conquistadores.  TruJiUo,  with  similar  buildings,  Yuste,  with  its 
reminiscences  of  Charles  V.,  and  the  famous  Roman  bridge  of  Al" 
cdntara  are  at,  some  distance  from  the  beaten  track.  Nothing  but  a 
lively  historical  curiosity  and  a  keen  sympathy  for  the  lonely  mel- 
ancholy of  the  cistus-heaths,  with  their  wealth  of  blossom  in  spring 
and  their  sunburnt  brown  in  summer,  enable  the  visitor  to  such  places 
■1  bear  with  equanimity  the  privations  to  which  he  is  exposed. 


445 

47.  From  Madrid  to  Torre  das  Vargens  (Lisbon)  vi& 

Plasencia,  Arroyo  de  Malpartida,  and  Valencia  de 

Alcdntara. 

305  U.  Railway  (one  throngh- train  dally)  in  14 Va  hrs.  (fares  to 
Valencia  de  Alcantara  50  p.,  S5  p.  70  c.^  25  p.;  thence  to  Torre  das  Var- 
gens  1670,  1280,  920  rs.))  to  Usbon  (412  M.)  in  21  hrs.  (fares  79  p. 
15,  58  p.  22,  40  p.  65  c).  There  are  also  local  trains  from  Madrid  to 
Napalmoral  (p.  446)  and  from  Plasencia  (p.  449)  to  Valencia  de  Mcdntara 
(p.  451).  —  The  trains  start  from  the  EsUxddn  de  la*  Delidas  (p.  53). 
There  are  good  railway-restaurants  at  Talavera  and  EntroneamentOy  and 
refreshment  counters  at  Ifavaltnoral^  Arroyo  de  Malpartida^  Vateneia^  and 
Torre  dag  Vargens.  Carriages  are  changed  and  luggage  is  examined  at 
Marvao  (in  the  reverse  direction  at  Valencia  de  Alcantara). 

Travellers  from  Portugal  who  wish  to  visit  Tolkdo  may  leave  the 
train  at  Vilkmiel  (see  below  and  p.  126).  If  a  ticket  for  ViUamiel  cannot 
be  obtained  in  Portugal,  the  best  plan  is  to  take  a  ticket  for  Valencia 
de  Alcitntara  and  there  re-book  for  ViUamiel. 

Madrid^  see  p.  62.  —  The  train  crosses  tbe  Mantanares  by  a 
bridge  135  yds.  long.  Beyond  (3  M.)  ViUaverde  we  have  a  fine  re- 
trospect of  Madrid  to  the  right.  —  8  M.  LeganSa,  with  a  large  Insane 
asylum.  The  monotony  of  the  landscape  is  hardly  relieved  by  the 
view  of  the  /Sierra  de  Quadarrama  to  the  N.  and  the  8Urra  de 
Qredos  to  the  W.  —  11  M.  FuerOabrada;  W/2  M.  Humanes;  171/2  M. 
Orifi6n. 

24  M.  Ulescas,  the  first  station  In  the  province  of  ToledOy  often 
appears  in  Spanish  novels  as  the  halfway-house  of  travellers  on  their 
way  to  the  city  of  Toledo.  The  church  has  a  fine  tower  in  the  Mud^- 
jar  style,  *which,  though  differing  essentially  from  any  Gothic  steeple, 
is  still  in  every  part  appropriately  designed,  and,  notwithstanding 
its  strongly  marked  horizontal  lines,  by  no  means  deficient  in  that 
aspiring  character  so  admirable  in  Gothic  steeples*  (Ferguason).  The 
house  which  Francis  I.  occupied  for  a  short  time  after  his  release 
from  captivity  Is  still  shown. 

27  M.  Atafia;  3OV2  M.  ViUaluenga;  35V2  M.  Cabanas  de  laSagra. 
The  train  follows  the  course  of  the  Tagua,  which,  however,  is  not 
visible.  Beyond  (39  M.)  Bargas  we  cross  its  tributary  the  Quadar- 
rama (p.  60)  by  a  five-arched  bridge,  195  yds.  long.  —  441/2  M. 
ViUamiel  (coach  to  Toledo,  see  p.  126);  471/2  M.  Bielvea. 

53  M.  TmrnioB,  a  small  and  ancient  town  with  2500  Inhab.,  was 
a  favourite  seat  of  Peter  the  Gruel  (p.  395).  The  palace  of  the  Count 
of  Altamira,  said  to  have  been  built  by  Juan  de  Herrera,  has  fine 
rooms  with  artesonado  ceilings.  —  We  now  have  our  last  view  of 
the  Guadarrama  Mts.  and  gradually  approach  the  lofty,  snow-clad 
Sierra  de  OredoSj  the  serrated  ridge  of  which  Is  long  visible,  rising 
picturesquely  over  the  cistus-spread  heaths  of  New  Castile  and 
Upper  Estremadura. 

60  m.  Santa- OlaUa- Carmena,  with  large  olive  -  plantations ; 
64  M.  Eruateai  68  M.  lOdn-Cebolla,  The  train  skirts  the  MorUeAra- 
gon  with  (73  M.)  the  station  of  the  same  name ,  approaches  the 


446   RouU47,  NAVALMORAL.  From  Madrid 

Tagas,  and  crosses  the  Alberche,  descending  from  the  Sierra  de  Gre> 
do8,  hy  a  stone  bridge  360  yds.  long.  The  Sierra  de  Gredos,  to  the 
N.,  is  partly  hidden  by  the  Sierra  de  San  VieenU  (4480  ft.). 

83  M.  Talavera  de  la  Beina  (1150  ft. ;  Fonda  de  la  Amistad; 
Rail.  Restaurant),  the  ancient  Talciriga,  now  a  town  with  9400  in- 
hab.,  lies  in  a  smiling  yega  on  the  Tagns.  From  the  time  of  Al- 
fonso XI.  onwards  it  was  the  hereditary  portion  of  the  Qneens  of 
Castile.  It  was  the  birthplace  of  the  historian  Juan  de  Mariana 
(1536-1623).  An  important  and  hard-fongbt  battle  took  place  here 
on  July  27-28th,  1809,  in  which  Wellington  defeated  the  French 
under  Joseph,  Jourdan,  and  Victor.    Each  side  lost  6-7000  men. 

'Three  hosts  combine  to  offer  sacrifice  . .  . 
The  foe,  the  victim,  and  the  fond  ally 
That  fights  for  all,  but  erer  fights  in  vain, 
Are  met  —  as  if  at  home  they  could  not  die  — 
To  feed  the  crow  on  Talavera's  plain^  (Bpron). 

The  most  Interesting  buildings  of  Talavera  are  the  Moorish 
Torres  Albarranas  (937),  the  Gothic  collegiate  church  of  Santa  Maria 
la  Mayor,  the  secularized  convent  of  San  Francisco  (with  an  elegant 
Mud^jar  tower),  the  church  of  Santo  Domingo  (with  three  Renais-  ^ 
sance  tombs),  and  the  church  of  San  Jer6nimo  on  the  Tagus,  bnilt 
in  1389  and  restored  in  1540  and  1624  (now  a  factory)  The  Bridge 
of  35  arches,  Y4  M.  long,  was  constructed  by  Card.  Mendoza  in  the 
15th  cent,  and  is  now  in  a  very  dilapidated  condition. 

On  the  £.  of  the  town  is  the  attractive  Paseo  del  Prado ,  leading  to 
the  ermita  of  La  Yirgxn  dsl  Prado,  in  honour  of  whom  large  proces- 
sions take  place  in  the  week  after  Easter.  Down  to  1807  a  curious  pagan 
festival,  named  L<m  M&ndas  de  Talatsra,  was  also  held  here,  under  the 
supervision  of  the  Jutticia  de  Mogiganga  Cpresldent  of  the  images'). 

The  train  now  leaves  the  Tagus,  which  here  turns  to  the  S.W.  to 
cleave  a  deep  ravine  between  the  hill-ranges  of  Yeneruela  and  LaMo- 
heda.  —  93  M.  CaUra;  101  M.  Alcanito,  —  105  M.  Oropesa,  a  loftOy 
situated  town,  surrounded  by  old  walls  and  dominated  by  the  pic- 
turesque castle  of  its  counts.  About  12  M.  to  the  S  ,  at  the  Puente 
del  Artobispo,  is  the  above-mentioned  gorge  of  the  Tagus.  To  the 
N.  the  Sierra  de  Gredos  is  seen  in  its  full  glory.  —  110  M.  La  Cal- 
zada  de  Oropesa,  in  a  corn-growing  plain.  To  the  S.  appear 
the  Sierra  de  AUamira  and  the  Jara.  —  The  train  quits  New  Castile 
and  enters  the  Estremadura  province  of  Cdeeres. 

124  M.  Kavalmoral  de  la  Hata  (984  ft.;  Bail.  Bfmt.  Booms), 
a  town  of  3800  inhab.,  situated  in  a  hollow  amid  groves  of  figs  and 
olives,  is  the  starting-point  for  a  visit  to  the  monastery  of  Yusie  on 
the  N.W.,  and  to  Trujillo  and  the  convent  of  Guadalupe  on  the  S. 


F&OM  Navalmobal  to  Yustb,  24  M.  The  bridle-path  leads  to 
the  N.W.,  passing  the  villages  of  Torviscoso  and  Talayuela^  then 
bends  to  the  N.,  descends  into  the  valley  of  the  TUtar^  and  te-as- 
cends  to  Jarandilla.  Farther  on  it  proceeds  to  the  S.W.,  via  Aldea- 


to  Torre  das  Vargerts,  YUSTE.  47.  RouU.  447 

nueva  dela  Vera,  to  the  Tillage  of  Cuacos,  P/4  M.  from  Yuste.  Ac- 
commodfttion  may  be  obtained  in  the  posada  or  at  the  farm  of  La 
MagdaUna.   The  keeper  of  the  monastery  lives  in  the  village. 

The  suppressed  monastery  of  San  Jer6iiimo  de  Yuste,  named 
after  the  brook  of  Yuste,  was  founded  from  Plasencia  in  1404.  It 
was  ravaged  by  the  French  in  1809  and  has  been  partly  restored  by 
Its  present  owner,  the  Mar  quia  de  Miravel  (p.  449).  Its  only  inter- 
est arises  from  the  fact  that  it  was  the  last  home  of  Emp.  Charles  V., 
after  he  had  resigned  the  imperial  crown  (Oct.  26th,  1656)  and  the 
Spanish  throne  (Jan.  15th,  1556)  in  favour  of  his  son  Philip  II. 
The  emperor,  who  seems  to  have  inherited  a  constitutional  tendency 
to  melancholy  from  his  mother,  Juana  la  Loca,  reached  the  soil  of 
Spain  at  Laredo  on  Sept.  28th,  1656,  and  soon  afterwards  received 
his  grandson  Don  Carlos  (p.  113)  at  Yalladolid.  He  then  betook 
himself  to  Jarandilla  and  lived  here  in  the  chateau  of  the  Count  of 
Oropesa,  until  the  house  that  had  been  building  for  him  on  the  S. 
side  of  the  convent  since  June,  1553,  was  ready  for  his  reception. 
On  Feb.  3rd,  1557,  he  occupied  his  new  residence,  the  covered  ter- 
race of  which  commands  an  extensive  view  extending  over  the  fer- 
tile district  of  La  Vera  and  the  moors  of  Estremadura  to  the  Sierra 
de  Guadalupe.  Here  Charles  lived  in  princely  state,  with  a  large 
retinue,  frequently  giving  his  advice  in  affairs  of  state  but  refusing 
all  invitations  to  resume  the  helm  of  government.  He  gave  free 
rein  to  his  taste  for  mechanical  pursuits,  made  a  large  collection  of 
clocks  and  watches,  and  spent  much  of  his  time  with  Oiovarmi  Tur- 
ri(mo  (^Juanelo^J,  an  ingenious  engineer  and  mechanician  of  Cre- 
mona. He  died  here  on  Sept.  28th,  1568.  —  The  parlour  and  bed- 
room of  the  emperor  adjoined  the  choir  of  the  church,  like  those  of 
Philip  II.  in  the  Escorial.  Even  from  his  bed  he  could  see  the 
high-altar  and  the  elevation  of  the  Host.  In  his  bedroom  hung  the 
'Gloria'  of  Titian  (p.  80),  which  his  will  ordered  to  be  kept  in  the 
same  place  as  his  dead  body.  The  latter  remained  at  Yuste  till  its 
removal  to  the  Escorial  in  1574,  and  the  outer  wooden  case  of  the 
leaden  coffin  is  still  preserved  here.  The  rooms  are  now  empty. 
Visitors  are  shown  the  Plaza  del  Palacio  (view-terrace),  the  Bedroom 
in  which  the  emperor  died,  the  Puente  leading  from  the  gallery  to 
the  garden,  and  the  pavilion  named  the  Cenador  de  Belen.  Other 
features  of  interest  are  the  old  sun-dial,  the  venerable  walnut-tree 
near  the  entrance,  and  the  stone  horse-block  used  by  the  emperor. 

Another  bridle-path  leads  from  Yuste  to  (22  M.)  Plasencia^  but  the 
traveller  will  find  it  difficult  to  get  either  mule  or  guide. 

Faox  Navalmobal  to  Tbdjillo,  45  M.  The  road  leads  to  the  S.W., 
via  (9V2  M.)  Almai^Zy  to  (12Vs  M.)  the  Tagus^  which  it  crosses  by  an  im- 
posing bridge,  HO  yds.  long  and  23  ft.  wide,  erected  by  Pedro  de  Urias 
in  1562.  The  larger  of  the  two  arches  is  160  ft.  In  height  and  140  ft.  in 
span.  Thence  we  ascend  vi&  (IS  M.)  Luffor  Nuevo  to  the  Bitrra  de  Miraoeie 
and  descend  again  to  (28  M.)  Jaraicejo.  Farther  on  we  cross  the  Almonte 
by  a  fine  bridge  and  pass  (40  M.)  CarrcuccU. 

45  M.  Trujillo  (1590  ft.),  a  high-lying  town   with  4800inbab.,   was  the 


448  BouU47.  GUADALUPE.  From  Madrid 

Roman  TurgcMium  and  now  consists  of  the  old  town,  the  new  town,  and 
a  Hoorivh  castle  restored  by  the  French.  It  was  the  birthplace  of  the 
herd-boy  Francisco  Pitarro  (ca.  1478-1541),  the  conqueror  of  Peru,  and  of 
sereral  others  of  the  Conquistadores,  who  used  the  wealth  amassed  in 
Peru  to  erect  large  palaces  here.  Adjoining  the  town-gate  is  a  tower 
said  to  be  of  Soman  origin.  The  Gothic  church  of  Santa  Maria  la  Mayor 
contains  the  tomb  of  Diego  Garcia  de  Paredes,  the  ^Samson  of  Estrema- 
dura\  who  was  bom  here  in  1466  and  died  at  Bologna  in  1634.  —  The 
most  notable  of  the  other  churches  are  San  Martin  ^  Santiago  (with  a 
Gothic  refablo  and  a  statue  of  St.  James,  the  tutelar  of  the  town,  by 
Cfregorio  Hernandez),  and  Santa  Maria  de  la  Concepcidn^  with  the  tomb  of 
Pizarro.  The  most  interesting  private  houses  are  the  Palace  of  the  Duqtie 
de  San  Carlos  (fine  patio),  that  of  the  Condt  del  Puerto  O&'ge  staircase), 
and  the  Hoiue  of  Pizarro,  in  the  Plaza  Mayor. 

From  Trujillo  a  Road  leads  to  the  S.E.  over  the  Sierra  de  Marehaz 
into  the  basin  of  the  Guadiana  and  Til  H.)  Conquistaf  once  an  estate 
belonging  to  Pizarro.  Farther  on  is  (l5Vs  M.)  Zorita^  beyond  which  we 
keep  to  the  £.,  skirting  the  8.  slope  of  the  Sierra  de  Ouadalvpe  to  (STi/s  U.) 
LogTOsan,  a  town  with  3900  inhab.,  in  the  valley  of  the  Pollares,  an 
affluent  of  the  Ruecas.  Geologists  will  be  interested  here  in  the  presence 
of  phosphate  of  lime  in  the  quartzite  slate,  a  unique  instance  in  Europe. 
It  is  worked  like  the  seam  of  a  mine.  Logrosan  itself,  like  Trujillo, 
lies  upon  granite,  which  has  been  upheaved  through  the  slate.  The  un- 
finished CiHtrch  contains  a  handsome  retablo. 

From  Logrosan  a  bridle-path  leads,  vii  (6  M.)  Cafiameroy  to  (15Vs  H.) 
Guadalupe ,  a  small  town  Q^SQO  inhab.) ,  situated  in  the  valley  of  the 
QuadalupejOy  on  the  S.E.  slope  of  the  Sierra  de  Guadalupe.  Its  suppressed 
CoNVKNTo  DK  LOS  Jbb6niho8,  foundod  by  Alfonso  XI.  in  1389,  was  one  of 
the  richest  monasteries  in  Spain.  The  building,  in  the  plaza,  resembles 
a  castle.  Adjoining  the  vestibule  are  the  Sagrario,  with  the  votive  chains 
of  Christians  freed  from  slavery,  and  the  Cfutpel,  containing  the  ^Virgen 
de  Guadalupe',  a  figure  of  the  Madonna  said  to  have  been  carved  by  St. 
Luke.  It  was  presented  by  Pope  Gregory  the  Great  to  Archbp.  Leander 
of  Seville,  was  hidden  away  during  the  Moorish  period,  and  found  again 
at  Guadalupe  by  a  shepherd  in  iHSO.  In  another  chapel  is  a  represent- 
ation of  the  council  held  here  in  1416.  —  The  Gothic  *Church  is  very 
imposing,  though  the  effect  is  somewhat  marred  by  the  over-massive  coro. 
The  latter  has  a  superb  reja  by  Francisco  de  Bakmumea  and  Juan  de  Avila. 
The'Renaissance  retablo  in  the  capilla  mayor  is  by  Juan  Gomes  de  Mora^ 
the  marble  decorations  are  by  Juan  Bautista  Semeria  and  the  Swiss  Bar- 
tolomi  Abril.  To  the  left  of  the  entrance  is  the  tomb  of  the  architect 
Juan  Alonso.  The  Capilla  de  los  Cuatro  Altares  contains  statues  of /Vfoce 
Dionisio  of  Portugal,  son  of  Peter  and  Inez  de  Castro  (p.  671),  and  his 
wife  Johanna,  The  tombs  of  Henry  IV.  of  Castile  and  Constable  Alonso 
Velcueo  are  also  interesting.  —  The  *  Sacristia  passes  for  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  in  Spain ;  it  contains  eight  *  Scenes  from  the  life  of  St.  Jerome 
by  Zurbaran.  —  There  are  two  Cloisters,  one  in  the  Gothic  style,  the  other, 
with  its  charming  well-house,  in  the  Moorish  style. 


Railway  to  Lisbon.  The  next  station  beyond  Navalmoral  is 
(131  M.)  Cctsatejada.  We  traverse  large  forests  of  oak  and  black  fir, 
approach  the  Tagns,  and  finally  pass  to  the  N.W.  into  the  sandy, 
ci8tu8-clad  valley  of  the  Tiitar  (p.  446),  crossing  that  river  at 
(142  M.)  La  Bazagona.  —  We  then  ascend  to  the  N.W.,  past 
(151  M.)  Malpartida  de  Plasenday  to  the  desolate  monntaln-platean 
of  Hasencia,  also  overgrown  with  gum-cistas.  To  the  S.  we  have  a 
distant  view ,  across  the  Tagus,  of  the  mountains  of  Qrutdalupe^ 
Marehaz,  and  Montanchez;  to  the  N.  the  view  is  somewhat  limited. 


to  Torre  das  VargenB,      PLASENOIA.  47,  RouU.  449 

156  M.  Flasencia.  —  The  Kctilway  Station  (Empalme)  lies  6  M.  to 
the  S.  of  the  town;  omnibas  IVsp*  —  Hotels.  Posada  de  lot  Trei  Puertas^ 
Parador  IfttevOy  both  unpretending. 

Plcuenciay  founded  in  1189  by  Alfonso  Yin.  of  Castile,  near  the 
Roman  Ambracia  (see  below),  and  named  by  him  Vt  Deo  Placet, 
was  created  the  see  of  a  bishop  in  1190  and  Is  now  a  town  of  7400 
inhabitants.  It  was  the  home  of  the  parents  of  Columbns,  who 
emigrated  hence  to  Genoa.  The  town  is  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Jerte,  a  tributary  of  the  Alag6n,  and,  like  Toledo,  lies  on  the  top 
of  a  rocky  promontory  cut  out  by  the  river  from  the  granitic  moun- 
tains. The  gorge  to  the  W.,  with  its  numerous  mills,  is  especially 
imposing.  Three  bridges,  each  with  seven  arches,  connect  Plasencia 
with  the  left  bank  of  the  Jerte.  The  double  line  of  walls,  with  its 
68  towers,  dates  from  the  time  of  Alfonso  VIII.  Round  it  now  runs 
a  promenade,  affording  a  series  of  magnificent  views;  the  best  is 
on  the  N.E.  side,  where  the  Alcdzar  once  stood  and  where  the  63 
arches  of  the  Aqueduct  recall  the  monumental  works  of  the  Romans. 

The  Cathedbal,  built  about  1498  but  left  unfinished  and 
marred  by  incongruous  later  additions,  has  an  overloaded  fagade  in 
the  plateresque  style.  In  the  N.  transept  is  the  beautiful  Ptierta  del 
EnLosadOy  with  portrait -medallions  and  the  armorial  bearings  of 
Charles  Y.  and  the  Carvajals. 

The  elaborately  decorated  Intbbiob  contains  many  handsome  mon- 
uments. The  capilla  mayor  is  by  Juan  de  AlavOy  Diego  de  Biloe^  and 
AloMo  de  CovarrubiaSy  and  its  saperb  reja  is  by  Juan  Bautista  Celma  (16j4). 
The  silleria,  by  Rodrigo  Aleman  (1520),  is  distinguished  for  its  elaborate 
trtotment  and  the  secular  character  of  many  of  its  subjects.  The  retablo 
has  a  fine  relief  of  the  Assumption  by  Gregorio  Hernandez  (1626).  ->  The 
BacrUUa^  with  a  good  Renaissance  porta],  contains  an  image  of  the  Virgin, 
which  is  publicly  exhibited  on  Aug.  15th.  —  The  8ala  Capitular^  burned 
down  in  18B2,  contained  an  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds  by  Velazquez. 

In  the  church  of  San  Nicolde  is  the  tomb  of  Bishop  Pedro  de 
Carvajalf  in  the  church  of  the  Monjas  de  San  Ildefonso  is  that  of 
Cristdbal  de  ViUcUha,  —  The  Casa  de  las  B6vbda8,  in  the  Plazuela  . 
de  San  NicoUs,  dates  from  1550  and  now  belongs  to  the  Marquee 
de  Miravel,  It  possesses  a  beautiful  patio  and  some  paintings  of  the 
wars  of  Charles  Y.,  while  some  Roman  antiquities  from  Capaja  (see 
below)  are  stationed  on  the  terrace. 

The  promenade  on  an  island  in  the  Jerte,  to  the  E.  of  the  town. 
Is  a  favourite  resort 

From  Plasencia  to  Salamanca^  see  p.  472. 

From  Plasencia  a  bridle-path  leads  to  the  K.  to  Capara^  which  occupies 
the  site  of  the  Roman  Ambracia^  on  the  Via  Augusta  Cp.  437),  and  still  retains 
a  few  antiquities.  The  path  then  leads  via  GranadiUa  and  Berguituela  into 
the  Tierra  de  las  Jurdes  and  the  Tierra  de  las  Batuecas^  two  districts 
abutting  on  the  Sierra  de  Oata.  and  beyond  these  it  goes  on  to  Ciudad 
Bodrigo  (p.  472;  in  all  about  70  M.). 

The  Xurdes  form  a  wild  hilly  district  of  about  80  sq.  M.  in  extent, 
consisting  of  limestone,  granite,  and  Silurian  strata.  There  are  neither 
roads  nor  bridges.  The  inhabitants  (about  4000)  live  in  cave-like  dwell- 
ings, partly  dug  in  the  ground  and  partly  constructed  of  wood  and  stone. 

Babobkeb*s    pain.  ^^ 


450  Route  47.  ALOANTABA.  F\r(mi  Madrid 

They  stand  on  a  rtrj  low  plane  of  cnltnre  and  have  few  prleats  or 
teachers.  The  name  of  the  district  is  derived  from  the  nnmeroas  wild 
swine  (Basque  jwdu  or  hwrdu). 

The  Batueeaa  form  another  isolated,  rocky  waste,  abont  24  sq.  K.  in 
area  and  intersected  by  huge  ravines.  In  1494  a  Frenchman  diacorered  a 
miraenlons  image  of  the  Virgin  in  the  iVflki  de  Franda^  and  a  Carmelite 
convent,  like  that  of  Montserrat.  was  erected  on  the  spot.  It  has,  how- 
ever, long  been  abandoned.  The  Batnecos  are  conaidered  coarse  and 
stnpid,  and  to  speak  of  a  Spaniard  as  ^criado  tn  lot  Batutecu'  ('broaght 
np  in  the  Bataecas*)  is  highly  insulting. 

The  Railway  now  turns  at  right  angles  to  the  S.W.  and  tra- 
verses a  dreary  platean;  to  the  right  rises  the  Sierra  de  Gata 
(p.  449).  —  Near  (166  M.)  Miravel  are  the  mintf  of  a  castle  that 
formed  a  frequent  bone  of  contention  in  the  Moorish  wars.  Two 
tunnels  penetrate  the  slaty  rocks  of  the  Sierra  de  Canaveral  (ca. 
1660  ft.).  —  176  M.  Canaveral.  —  186  M.  OarroviUas ;  the  little 
town  (610  ft.),  with  4900  inhab.  and  numerous  cloth-mills ,  lies 
2  M.  to  the  W.  —  The  train  crosses  the  Tagus  by  an  eight-arched 
bridge,  400  yds.  long.  To  the  left,  in  the  river,  are  the  remains  of 
the  Puenie  de  Alconiiar^  a  Roman  bridge,  which  the  Moors  destroyed 
in  1232,  along  with  the  town  of  the  same  name,  when  fleeing  be- 
fore Alfonso  IX.  of  Leon. 

The  train  ascends  on  the  high  S.  bank  of  the  Tagus,  describing 
two  wide  curves  in  the  delta  enclosed  by  its  affluents,  the  Almonte 
and  the  Araya.  We  thread  four  tunnels  and  cross  two  bridges  over 
the  Arroyo  de  ViUoluengo.  —  193  M.  Casar  de  Cdeeres  is  known  for 
its  boots  and  tanneries. 

204  M.  Arroyo  de  Malpartida  (Buffet),  a  station  serving  the 
small  towns  of  Arroyo  del  Puereo  (see  below ;  W.)  and  Malpartida 
de  Cdceres  (E.),  is  the  junction  of  a  branch-railway  to  Cdceres  (and 
Merida;  see  p.  451). 

Faox  Abboto  db  Malpabtida  to  AlcaKtaba,  29  M.,  diligence  at  night. 
—  The  good  but  uninteresting  road  leads  towards  the  N.W.  IV4  M.  Arroyo 
del  Puereo,  with  the  celebrated  Santuario  de  Nwstra  SelHora  de  la  Luz; 
iSVs  M.  Navas  da  ModroHo;  24  M.  La  Mata  de  Alcdntara. 

29  H.  Alointara  (390  ft. ;  Posada  Nueva,  very  primitive),  the  Laneia  of 
the  Vettones  and  Norba  Caesarea  of  the  Romans,  is  a  quaint-looking  town 
of  3100  inhab.,  perched  on  the  lofty  8.  bank  of  the  Tagus.  It  is  famous 
for  its  Roman  bridge  (Arab,  al-kdntara)  and  for  the  knightly  Order  of 
Alcantara.  This  order,  dedicated  to  St.  Benedict,  was  originally  established 
in  1176  in  the  fortress  of  San  Jidian  de  Pereiro  near  Oiudad  Rodrigo,  to 
defend  the  frontier  against  the  Moors,  but  it  was  transferred  in  1218  to  Al- 
cantara, where  it  acquired  great  wealtn  and  reputation.  In  1496  the  dignity 
of  Grand  Master  was  made  an  appanage  of  the  crown.  The  Gothic  ehurch 
of  Santa  Maria  de  Almocibar,  ))uilt  in  the  IStti  cent,  on  the  site  of  a  mosque, 
contains  thn  tombs  of  the  Grand  Masters.  The  church  of  the  ruined 
Convenio  de  San  Benito^  built  by  Pedro  de  Larrea  in  1506.  has  five  pictures 
by  Jforalee.  Among  its  interesting  tombs  are  those  or  Francisco  Bravo 
(in  a  chapel  built  by  Pedro  de  Ibarra  in  1550),  Diego  de  Santillana  (1603), 
and  Nicolas  de  Ovando  (1511),  as  well  as  several  in  the  old  cloisters. 

The  famous  **Bbidob,  one  of  the  wonders  of  Spain,  bnllt  under 
Trajan  in  98-108,  strides  across  the  Tagus  to  the  N.W.  of  the  town  In  six 
majestic  arches.  It  is  made  wholly  of  granite,  without  the  use  of  mortar; 
its  length  is  616  ft.,   its  width  26  ft.    The  two  middle  piers  are  about 


to  Torre  das  Vargens,      CACERES.  47.  Route.  451 

190  ft.  bigb,  and  the  two  middle  arches  have  a  span  of  60  ft.  The  usnal 
depth  of  the  water  is  37  ft.,  but  in  time  of  flood  it  is  sometimes  piled 
up  in  the  narrow  gorge  to  a  height  of  180  ft.  In  the  middle  of  the  bridge 
is  a  gateway  86  ft.  high  —  a  frequent  feature  in  Roman  bridges.  One  of 
the  smaller  arches  was  destroyed  in  1218  and  .restored  by  Oharles  V. 
(1543).  The  second  arch  from  the  N.  bank  was  blown  up  by  the  British 
in  1809  and  by  the  Garlists  in  188(5,  but  it  also  was  restored  in  1860.  — 
A  chapel  at  the  beginning  of  the  bridge  contains  some  verses  relating  to 
£mp.  Trajan  and  Caius  Julius  Lacer,  the  architect  of  the  bridge. 

From  Alcantara  we  may  ride  to  the  S.W.  to  MembHJo  and  drive 
thence  to  Valencia  <f«  Aledntara  (see  below),  but  this  route  is  uninteresting. 

Beyond  Arroyo  de  Malpartida  the  Railway  to  Lisbon  crosses 
tb6  Salor  (p.  462).  To  the  left  of  (215  M.)  AlUeda  stretches  the 
Sierra  de  San  Pedro  (p.  462),  across  the  steep  N.  outliers  of  which 
our  line  ascends.  To  the  right  of  (227  M.)  Herreruela  is  the  Sierra 
de  Cofbajo,  —  242  M.  Son  Vicente.   We  now  descend  to  — 

249  M.  Valencia  de  Alcantara  (Buffet)  j  with  the  Spanish 
custom-house  (carriages  changed),  a  frontier-Tortress  with  4600  in- 
hab.  and  many  relics  of  the  Moorish  period.  The  church  of  Ro- 
queamador  is  an  interesting  edifice  of  the  14th  century.  The  old 
Roman  town  of  Julia  CorUrasta^  which  has  almost  wholly  vanished, 
lay  about  3  M.  from  Valencia. 

The  Portuguefe  railway,  which  begins  here,  runs  on  Lisbon 
time  (see  p.  ii).     The  small  river  Sever  forms  the  frontier. 

259  M.  Marvfto,  an  unimportant  place  in  a  desolate  hill-district 
at  the  E.  base  of  the  Serra  de  Sao  Mamede  (3330  ft.),  has  the  Portu- 
guese custom-house  (money  changed).  — We  descend,  over  a  slope 
strewn  with  granite  blocks,  to  (275  M.)  Ca$tello  de  Vide,  the  Portu- 
guese frontier-fortress ,  connected  by  a  good  road  with  Portalegre 
"p.  610).  —  We  cross  the  curious  plateau  of  Alemtejo  (p.  607). 
".7  M.  Pmo;  298  M.  Ounheira, 

305  M.  Torre  das  Vargens^  and  thence  to  Lfsbon,  see  p.  510. 


^■' 


Fbom  Arboto  db  Malfabtida  (p.  450)  to  Cacebes,  10 V2  ^m 
branch-railway  in  3/^  hr.  (three  trains  daily;  fares  2 p.  36,  1  p.  60, 
1  p.  20  c).  —  The  only  intermediate  station  is  (9  M.)  Las  Minas, 
with  large  phosphorite  mines. 

101/2  M.  C&ceres  (1545  ft. ;  Fonda  del  Comercio,  Fonda  de  Antonio 
Sanchezy  clean),  the  capital  of  a  province,  is  the  ancient^  Roman 
Castra  CaeciUa  or  Caesaris,  Pop.  13,203.  The  old  town,  with  its 
large  mediseval  palaces,  lies  upon  a  hill,  girt  with  imposing  walls, 
towers,  and  gates,  including  the  Arco  de  la  EstreUa.  The  new  town 
lies  on  the  lower  slopes  of  the  hill.  —  The  Gothic  church  oi.Santa 
Maria  la  Mayor  contains  the  tombs  of  the  Figueroas,  Paredes,  and 
other  families,  and  a  large  retablo  by  Guillen  (1556),  with  scenes 
from  the  lives  of  Christ  and  the  Virgin  Mary.  The  Gothic  church 
of  San  Mateo ,  built  by  Pedro  de  Ezquerra  on  the  site  of  a  mosque, 
occupies  the  highest  point  of  the  old  town  and  has  a  fine  tow^r. 

29* 


452     Route  48,  '  ORGAZ.  From  Madrid 

Inside  U  the  tomb  of  the  Marqn^s  de  Yaldepnentes.  The  chief  points 
of  interest  in  the  once  Mozarabic  (p.  135)  church  of  Santiago  are  the 
reja  (1563)  and  the  'Paso  de  Jestis  Nfizareno'  (foot-print  of  Jesiis), 
which  attracts  numerous  devout  .worshippers.  —  Among  the  domes- 
tio  buildings  of  the  old  town  are  the  Casa  de  ku  VeUtcu,  once  the 
Alc&zar  and  now  the  Audiencia;  the  Casa  de  los  QolpntB,   -with  its 
beautiful  facade  ;the  palace  of  the  Count  de  la  Torre  Mayoralgo,  contain- 
ing an  ancient  statue  of  Diana ;  the  Casa  del  Ckmde  de  Adanero  ;  and 
the  Casa  de  los  CarvajaleSj  now  the  Diputaci6n  Provincial.  — A  few 
ancient  statues  have  been  placed  in  the  acacia-shaded  PUtza  Afayor 
or  de  la  Constitucidnj  the  focus  of  the  new  town.  —  To  the  S.E.  of 
the  town  is  the  high-lying  Santuario  de  Nuestra  Senora  de  la  Montana. 
Fbom  CicBBXS  TO  MftxiDA,  4611.,   railway  (one    train  daily)   in  ca. 
8  hrs.  (fare*  9  p.  15,  6  p.  85,  4  p.  66  c),  —  The  train  runs  towards  the  S. 
2  M.  Empaikne  de  ku  Jfincu.   We  cross  the  Balor,  which  rises  in  the  Sierra 
d$  Montancht.    4Vs  M.  Aldea  da  Cano.    Farther  on  we  cross  the  Sierra 
de  San  Pedro^  the  watershed  between  the  Tagns  and  the  Guadiana,    and 
then  descend  to  (24Vs  H.)  Oartnonita^  the  first  place  in  the  Estremadnra 
province  -of  Betdaioe.  —  32  M.  Carrcucalejo^  on  the  small  river  Aljuc^; 
41  H.  Aljuein  (p.  457).  —  46  M.  Mirida,  see  p.  455. 

48.    From  Madrid  to  Badajoz  (Torre  das  Vargens^ 
Lisbon)  vift  Ciudad  Beal,  Almorchon,  and  M6rida. 

316  U.  Railway  (two  trains  daily)  in  !X)-26  hrs.  (fares  58  p.  65  c.,  4 i  p., 
29  p.  35  c.;  to  Lielxm  (496  M.)  in  88  36  hrs.  —  The  trains  stort  from  the 
Estacidn  del  Mediodia  (p.  62).  There  are  poor  railway -restanrants  in 
Ciudad  JUal.  Almorchdn,  and  Badajog;  but  it  is  well  to  be  supplied  with 
more  appetizing  viands  than  they  can  snpply.  —  The  journey  through 
Lower  Estremadura  is  tedious  and  has  little  to  offer  in  the  way  of  scenery, 
but  has  to  be  taken  by  those  who  wish  to  see  Mirida  and  Badajoz.  —  For 
the  journey  to  Toledo^  see  p.  126;  direct  route  to  LiAon^-^te  p.  445. 

From  Madrid  to  (4'/2  M".)  ViUaverde^  see  p.  445.  Our  line  now  di- 
verges to  the  right  from  the  main  line  to  Alcizar  (RR.  29,  33).  As 
far  as  (9  M.)  Oetafe  (p.  275)  we  enjoy  retrospects  of  Madrid  and  the 
Gnadarrama  Mts.  —  171/2  M.  Torre j6n  de  VelascOj  in  a  dreary  situa- 
tion. In  the  foreground  rise  the  Monies  de  Toledo  (p.  128) ;  vines 
and  olives  begin  to  appear.  —  22^/2  M.  Yeles  y  Esquivias  is  the  first 
station  in  the  province  of  Toledo.  —  30  M.  Pantoja  y  Alameda  lies 
amid  corn-fields.  To  the  right  are  the  curiously  formed  Cerro  de  la 
Saeristana  and  Cerro  xde  Arroyuelos.  Beyond  (36  M.)  ViUaseea  y 
Mocej6n  we  cross  the  Tagus  by  a  bridge  145  yds.  long. 

38  M.  Algodor  is  the  junction  of  the  Gastillejo  and  Toledo  rail- 
way (pp.  126,  276). 

Our  line  crosses  the  Algodor  and  ascends  imperceptibly  to  the 
low  E.  spurs  of  the  Toledo  Mts.,  separating  the  basin  of  the  Tagns 
from  that  of  the  Guadiana.  —  51  M.  Almonacid  (2355  ft.),  with  an 
old  Moorish  castle.  —  56  M.  Mora,  with  a  ruined  castle. 

On  the  N.  slope  of  the  Sierra  de  Yibenee^  5  M.  to  the  W.  of  Mora,  lies 
Orgas,  a  small  town  with  an  old  castle  dominating  an  extensive  district. 
Near  Orgaz  are  some  large  granite  quarries. 


to  Badajo;  OIUBAD  REAL.  48.  Route.  453 

Beyond  (681/2  M.)  Mansaneque  the  train  crosses  the  Sienra  de 
Y^enes  by  the  Pass  of  Manzaneque  (2493  ft.)  and  then  descends 
to  (65  M.)  Yibenea,  in  the  valley  of  the  Algodor.  To  the  right  lies 
the  desolate  Dehesa  de  Ovadalersas ,  beyond  which  rises  the  Sierra 
de  Pocito,  —  74  M.  Urda  is  3V2  M,  from  the  little  town  of  that 
name,  which  lies  to  the  E.,  at  the  foot  of  the  Calderina  (p.  301). — 
We  cross  the  crest  of  the  Calderina  and  descend  to  the  basin  of  the 
Gnadiana.  —  83  M,  Emperador ;  94  M.  Malag6n^  the  first  place  In 
the  province  of  Ciudad  Real,  Beyond  (9672  M.)  Ferndn  Caballero 
we  cross  the  Chiadiana  by  a  four-arched  bridge,  240  yds.  long. 

107  M.  Ciudad  Beal  (2073  ft. ;  HdUl  Pizarroso,  Calle  de  la 
Paloma  15;  Fonda  de  Baliasar  Qarcta;  Fonda  de  Miracklo;  RaiL 
Restaurant)^  founded  by  Alfonso  the  Learned  in  1252  under  the 
name  of  Villarreal  and  rechristened  by  John  VJ.  in  1420,  is  now 
an  impoverished  provincial  capital,  with  12,800  inhabitants.  It  lies 
in  the  midst  of  a  plain  watered  to  the  N.  by  the  Guadiana  and 
to  the  S.  by  its  tributary  the  Jabaldn,  —  From  the  railway-station, 
lying  to  the  S.W.  of  the  town,  we  pass  through  the  Puerta  de  Alarcos 
into  the  Csdle  d^Postas,  from  which  the  third  side-street  to  the  left 
(Calle  de  la  Vfrgen)  leads  to  the  P<ueo  del  Prado,  Here  stands  Santa 
Maria  del  Prado^  a  huge  Gothic  church,  without  aisles,  dedicated  to 
the  tutelar  of  the  town.  Its  main  features  of  interest  are  the  coro, 
the  organ,  and  the  rotable  by  Oiraldo  de  Merlo  (1616 ;  with  scenes 
from  the  life  of  Christ  and  an  image  of  the  Virgin).  —  The  Puerta 
de  Toledo,  at  the  N.  end  of  the  town.  Is  in  the  Mud^jar  style. 

The  pilgrimage-church  of  Nuettra  Sefiora  de  Alanos,  7  M.  to  the  W. 
of  Ciudad  Beal,  occupies  the  site  of  the  town  of  Alarcos,  which  was 
destroyed  by  the  Almohades  in  1195,  after  their  defeat  of  Alfonso  VKI. 

From  Giadad  Beal  to  Manzanares,  fee  p.  301. 

The  Railway  crosses  the  Jabalon  and  passes  to  the  S.W.  into 
a  hilly  district.  —  117  M.  La  Canada;  121  M.  Caracuel;  127  M. 
Argamasilla  de  Calatrava,  on  the  W.  margin  of  the  Campo  de  Gala- 
trava.  —  131  M.  Puertollano  (2345  ft.)  is  also  the  station  for  Al- 
mod6var  del  Campo,  to  the  N.W.  Rich  seams  of  coal  occur  in  the 
vicinity.  —  The  line  turns  to  the  W.,  ascends  the  valley  of  the 
Jaraic^n,  reaches  its  culminating  point  (2420  ft.),  and  then  descends 
to  (142  M.)  Veredas. 

From  Veredas  the  Puerto  de  Veredas  leads  to  the  S.  over  the  moun- 
tains to  the  Yalle  de  la  Alcudia,  a  royal  demesne  47  M.  long  and  TVs  M. 
broad,  used  as  pasturage  for  300,000  migratory  sheep  (p.  444). 

We  now  descend  into  the  Val  de  Azogues  ('quicksilver  valley'), 
with  the  richest  quicksilver  mines  in  Europe,  if  not  in  the  world. 
152  M.  CaracoUera,  with  the  Pozos  de  Valdeazogues,  We  pass  La 
Goncepcidn,  the  oldest  of  the  mines. 

168  M.  Almadenejos  y  Almad^n.  Almaden  de  Azogue,  a  clean 
and  prettily  situated  town  (7800  inhab.),  6  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  the 
railway,  with  a  Moorish  castle  and  two  mining  academies,  owes  it? 
importance  to  its  valuable  quicksilver  mines,  which  may  be  visits 


454   Route  48.  ALM0RCH6N.  From  Madrid 

with  the  permisBion  of  the  Jefe  or  director.   Almaden^o$  is  a  colony 
of  miners'  cottages  on  the  railway. 

The  MivKS  of  Almad^n  (Arab,  al-mcfden^  mine)   were  worked  by    tlie 
Bomans  and  the  Moors,  and  from   1535  to  1615  they  were  leased  to  the 
Fnggers  of  Augsburg.     The  present  mines,   belonging  to  govemment   but 
partly  in  pledge  to  the  Bothschilds  of  London,  liave    been  worked  since 
the  end  of  the  17th  century.    They  consist  of  flye  stages  or  galleries,    tbe 
lowest  of  which  is  about  1160  ft.  below  the  surface.    The  actual  mining 
operations  are  carried  on  in  a  seam  of  cinnabar,  50  ft.  thick,  while   at 
Almadenejos  the  rare  horn-mercury  also   occurs.    The  mercury  is  found 
embedded  in  graywacke,  slate,  and  qaartz ,  either  as  virgin  ore  (etzogue 
virgm)  or  as  red  cinnabar  i  a  grey  variety  of  ore  is  known  as  fraileica. 
The  rock  is  penetrated  by  perpendicular  shafts  (pozot)  and  horizontal  adits 
(ranudeM).     The  lofty  galleries,  supported  by  masonry,    are  well  wortli 
seeing.  —  About  200,000  quintals  (10,000  tons)  of  ore  are  annually  raised, 
from  which  about  10  per  cent  (20,000  quintals)  of  pxu>e  metal  is  obtained. 
It  is  packed  for  export  in  large  iron  vessels.  —  The  40(X)  miners,  working 
day  and  night  in  six-hour  shifts,  suffer  greatly  from   the  poisonous  ex- 
halations of  the  ore.    At  one  time  convicts  (prtsidiariot)  were  almost  ex- 
clusively employed,  but  they  set  fire  to  the  works  at  the  beginning  of 
last  century.    The  Carlists  drowned  oat  the  mines}  and  they  are  now  kept 
clear  by  large  steam-pumps. 

The  Distilling  Fdknackb  lie  at  the  foot  of  the  hill.  The  wood  of 
the  cistus  {Cistut  ladani/erus^  p.  507)  is  used  for  fuel.  The  smelting  opera- 
tions are  carried  on  in  winter;  even  the  btOoi,  or  bricks  formed  of  the 
sweepings  of  the  galleries,  yield  8  per  cent  of  metal. 

Between  (178  M.)  Chilldn  and  (181 U*')  PedrocJies  the  train  crosses 
an  iron  bridge  spanning  the  gorge  of  the  Ouaddlmez,  quits  New 
Castile^  and  temporarily  enters  the  Andalusian  province  of  Cordova, 
—  190  M.  Belalcdzar.  The  small  town,  with  a  ruined  castle  of  the 
Knights  of  Alcantara  (1145),  lies  5  M.  to  the  S.,  in  the  N.  part  of  the 
PedrocheSy  a  plateau  630  sq.  M.  In  extent,  forming  the  gentle  N. 
slope  of  the  Sierra  Morena.  The  surface  is  covered  with  crops,  oak- 
woods,  and  cistus-heaths,  and  is  strewn  with  blocks  of  granite  from 
the  formation  below  the  soil,  —  We  cross  the  ZHjar,  201  M.  Cabeza 
del  Bxiey,  in  the  pretty  VaUe  del  Buey^  lies  in  the  province  of  BaMjoz 
(Estremadura). 

204  M.  Almorch6n  (Rcdl.  Restaurant)^  an  unimportant  place  with 
the  remains  of  a  Moorish  castle,  is  the  junction  of  a  branch-railway 
to  Bilmez  and  Cordova  (p.  303).  To  the  S.W.  rises  the  Sierra  del 
Pedroso;  to  the  N.  (right)  lies  the  Ermita  of  the  Virgen  de  BelSn. 

Castuera  (219  M.),  Campanano  (231  M.),  and  Magacela  (238  M.) 
lie  on  the  8.  and  W.  margins  of  the  Serena^  a  semicircular  district 
bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  Guadiana  and  backed  by  the  isolated 
summits  of  the  Sierra' Pela,  the  Sierra  de  Ouadalupe^  and  the  ^Sierra 
de  Montanchez. 

La  Serena  is  a  plateau  about  1150  ft.  above  the  sea,  watered  by  the 
Ztijar  and  its  tributaries  and  furrowed  by  numerous  ravines.  The  geolog- 
ical formation  is  partly  slate  and  partly  granite.  The  moorland  pasture 
of  the  surface  forms  an  excellent  feeding<ground  for  the  migratory  sheep 
(p.  444).  The  entire  plateau  is  encircled  on  the  E.,  8.,  and  W.,  for  a 
'distance  of  over  50  M.,  by  quartzite  hills  resembling  volcanic  craters.   On 

■'•n  of  these  stood  seven  Moorish  frontier-fortresses,  known  as  Loi  8Ute 
Ho8  de  la  Serena.  The  Serena  belonged  for  a  time  to  the  Order  of 
itara  and  is  now  the  property  of  the  crown. 


to  Badajot.  M^RIDA.  48.  Route.    455 

As  we  approach  the  Guadiana,  the  soil  becomes  more  fertile.  — 
243  M.  VUlanueva  de  la  Serena  (820  ft.),  a  town  of  11,800  inhab., 
the  line,  hnerta  of  which  produces  excellent  red  wine  and  water 
melons  fsandfas).  —  247  M.  Don  BerUto,  a  prettily  situated  town  of 
16,100  inhab.,  founded  in  1477,  is  also  famous  for  its  melons.  — 
The  train  runs  towards  the  W.  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Guadiana,  but 
at  some  distance  from  the  river.   We  cross  the  Ortigas. 

251  M.  MedeUfny  the  Metellinum  of  the  Romans,  was  the  birth- 
place of  Fernando  Cortes  (p.  423),  whose  house  is  still  shown.  The 
poor-looking  town  lies  on  the  slope  of  a  hill  crowned  by  an  old  castle 
(view).   The  Guadiana  is  here  spanned  by  a  bridge,  456  yds.  long. 

By  crossing  the  Guadiana  we  can  reach  the  road  leading  to  the  N.W. 
to  TrujiUo  (p.  448)  and  Logrosan  (p.  44S),  bnt  the  diligence-route  from 
M^rida  is  preferable. 

We  cross  the  Quadamez  and  pass  four  small  stations.  We  then 
cross  the  Guadiana  by  an  iron  bridge,  600  yds.  long,  supported  by 
11  piers.  To  the  left  is  a  hill  with  dislocated  strata  of  slate,  sur- 
mounted by  a  castle.  —  272  M.  Don  Alvaro,  Large  com-flelds,  rose- 
mary, olives,  and  opuntia  cover  the  ground.  We  follow  the  right 
bank  of  the  Guadiana  towards  the  N.W.,  pass  the  new  aqueduct  of 
M^rida  (p.  456),  and  then  see  to  the  right  the  arches  of  the  Roman 
aqueduct  (p.  456). 

279  M.  MMda  (640ft. ;  Fonda  del  Leon,  pens.  5 p.,  dirty;  Fonda 
de  Diego  8egwra)^  a  poverty-stricken  town  with  7600 Inhab.,  lies  on 
a  low  range  of  hills  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Guadiana.  Its  Roman 
structures,  though  for  the  most  part  in  poor  preservation,  are  more 
important  than  those  of  any  other  town  in  Spain.  They  may  be 
visited  in  half-a-day  (guide  2-3  p.). 

M^rida,  founded  in  B.C.  23  as  Augutta  Em^riia  by  the  Roman  legate 
Jhtbliut  Caritius^  was  made  the  capital  of  Lusitania  and  soon  acquired 
such  prosperity  that  it  was  somewhat  grandiloquently  called  the  ^Spanish 
Bome\  In  addition  to  the  large  public  buildings,  constructed  almost 
solely  of  granite,  there  are  numerous  ancient  fragments  immured  in  the 
modem  houses.  Herida  was  also  the  metropolis  of  the  Yisigothic  Lusi- 
tania, and  the  Chronicle  of  the  Cid  describes  it  as  having  84  gates,  6  castles, 
and  9700  (?)  towers.  In  713  it  was  taken  by  the  Moors  under  ifflsa,  after 
a  series  of  desperate  contests;  and  thereafter  was  governed  by  Walls,  who 
repeatedly  formed  small  Berber  states  here  and  generally  succeeded  in 
maintaining  their  independence,  even  as  against  the  mighty  Caliphs  of 
Cordova.  Of  this  new  period  of  prosperity  the  Moor  Rcuis  writes  that 
*no  man  on  earth  can  describe  the  wonders  of  M^rida\  After  its  reconquest 
by  Alfonso  IX.  of  Leon  in  122S,  M^rida,  of  which  the  archbishopric  had 
been  transferred  to  Santiago  de  Compostela  in  1129,  was  handed  over  to 
the  Knights  of  Santiago  and  soon  sank  into  a  state  of  decay.  The  present 
town  covers  only  a  small  part  of  the  area  of  ancient  M^rida,  and  thus 
most  of  the  important  Roman  buildings  are  beyond  its  limits. 

The  centre  of  the  town  is  the  Plaza  MATor  or  Plasa  de  la  Con- 
stitucidn,  which  is  surrounded  by  arcades.  Near  it,  to  the  W.,  are 
the  church  of  Santa  Maria  and  the  small  Archaeological  Museum.  To 
the  E.  is  the  Casa  del  Duque  de  la  Boca,  built  in  the  Mud^jar  styl^ 
in  the  16th  cent.,  and  incorporating  some  Roman  remains.  —  To  tT 


456   RouU48.  M^RIDA.  IVom  Madrid 

N.  of  the  plaza  Is  the  Casa  del  Candt  de  lo$  CotboSj  in  which  are  im- 
mnred  40  columns  of  the  Roman  Temple  of  Diana,  about  35  ft.  high. 
A  few  yards  off  is  a  Tkiumfhal  Abch,  43  ft.  in  height,  now  named 
the  Arco  de  Santiago  and  robhed  of  its  marble  facing. 

To  the  N.£.  of  the  town,  near  the  railway-station,  are  the  church 
and  convent  of  Santa  Eulalia,  said  to  have  been  founded  in  the  4th 
century.  The  Homo  de  Santa  Eulalia,  built  about  1612  with  the 
relics  of  the  Roman  Temple  of  Mars,  is  piously  believed  to  mark  the 
site  of  the  oven  in  which  the  infant  martyr  (b.  292)  suffered  death 
by  roasting. 

To  the  S.  of  the  Plaza  Mayor,  amid  the  orchards  on  the  bank  of 
the  Guadiana,  stands  the  Alcazak,  originally  a  Roman  building 
expanded  by  the  Moors  in  835,  and  afterwards  converted  into  a 
convent,  El  Conventual,  by  the  Knights  of  Santiago.  It  is  now  in 
private  hands.  The  gardener  (fee  Y^-l  p.)  shows  some  ancient  re- 
mains in  a  court  and  an  interesting  Roman  (?)  draw-well,  with 
marble  lining  and  a  double  flight  of  steps  descending  to  the  water. 
The  outer  wall  affords  a  good  view  of  the  Roman  bridge  and  of  the 
stream,  which  swarms  with  water-snakes.  In  the  vestibule  of  the 
gardener's  lodge  are  curious  zoological  paintings  of  the  18th  century. 

The  ohief  lion  of  M^rida  is  the  *  Roman  Bridge,  which  crosses 
the  Guadiana  in  64  arches ;  it  is  1/2  M.  long,  33  ft.  high,  and  21  ft. 
wide.  It  was  probably  built  under  £mp.  Augustus,  was  restored  in 
686  by  Sala,  the  Visigothic  Duke  of  Toledo,  and  was  again  renewed 
and  strengthened  by  Philip  III.  (1610).  Some  of  its  arches  were 
blown  up  in  1812,  during  the  siege  of  Badajoz,  to  hinder  the  French 
advance  from  Andalusia ;  and  it  suffered  considerable  damage  from 
an  inundation  in  1877.  On  a  sandbank  to  the  S.£.  is  El  Tajamar, 
a  Roman  structure  to  protect  the  piers  of  the  bridge  in  flood.  —  To 
the  N.W.  is  the  bridge  of  the  Seville  railway  (p.  460). 

To  the  N.W.  of  the  town,  beyond  the  railway,  lie  the  scanty 
remains  of  the  Roman  Forwrn,  beyond  which  are  those  of  the  *Roman 
AaxjBDUOT,  now  called  Los  Mila^ros,  The  latter  consists  of  37  piers, 
about  85  ft.  high,  and  10  arches,  rising  in  three  tiers  and  built  of 
brick  and  granite.  —  A  little  to  the  N.  is  another  Roman  Bbidge, 
160  yds.  long  and  26  ft.  wide,  which  crosses  the  small  river  AWar- 
tegas  (Alba  regia). 

The  Madrid  road,  to  the  E.  of  the  town,  leads  to  the  less  ancient 
Aqueduct  J  with  its  140  arches.  A  little  to  the  S.E.  of  this,  in  the 
marshy  floor  of  the  valley,  are  traces  of  the  Circus  MaximuSf  which 
was  484  yds.  long  and  118  yds.  broad.  —  By  following  the  aqueduct 
to  the  S.W.  we  reach  the  very  scanty  remains  of  the  Amphitheatre, 
adjoining  which  is  the  *  Roman  Theatre,  known  as  Las  Siete  SUlas 
from  the  seven  divisions  of  the  seats.  Its  walls  are  of  astounding 
thickness.  A  fine  view  of  Mtfrida  is  enjoyed  from  the  uppermost 
rows.  —  Farther  on  in  the  same  direction  is  the  so-called  Bono  de 
las  MoroSf  probably  the  remains  of  a  Roman  Naumachia, 


to  BadajoK.  BADAJOZ.  48.  Route.   457 

About  3  M.  to  the  "S.  of  M^rida  lies  the  Lago  de  Proserpina  or  La 
Chorea  de  laAlbueray  an  enormous  artificial  basin  or  tank,  constructed  by 
the  B'omanSf  with  towers  (hocines)  containing  stairs  descending  to  the  water. 
—  There  is  a  similar  reservoir  at  TruJiUanos,  6  M.  to  the  N.E.,  on  the  road 
to  Tmjillo  (p.  448)  ^  this  is  named  La  Albuera  de  Comalvo ,  and  is  taken 
by  many  authorities  for  a  naumachia. 

From  M^rida  to  Cdeeres  and  Arroyo  de  Maipartida,  see  pp.  462,  461 ;  to 
^q/Va,  Tocinoy  and  BeviUe^  see  R.  49. 

Beyond  M^rida  the  tiain  crosses  the  AWarregas  (p.  456)  and  at 
(283  M.)  Aljuc6n  the  stream  of  that  name.  Here  the  line  to  Ciceres 
diverges  to  the  right.  In  the  foreground  appears  the  /Sierra  de  las 
VfborcUj  infested,  like  the  Sierra  de  Montanchez,  by  numerous  vipers, 
which  are  eaten  by  the  pigs  and  are  said  to  give  their  flesh  an 
excellent  flavour.  To  the  left,  between  the  railway  and  the  Guadiana, 
extends  the  grain-growing  Vega  del  Quadiana,  —  Beyond  (288  M.) 
OarrovUla  we  cross  seven  bridges  over  the  various  arms  of  the 
Lacara.  —  294  M.  MontijOj  from  which  the  Empress  Eugenie  took 
her  title  of  Countess  of  Montijo. 

To  the  S.  of  Montijo  lies  Puebla  de  la  CalzadOf  the  parish-church  of 
which  contains  ten  scenes  from  the  Passion  by  Morales. 

306  M.  Talavera  la  Real,  an  insignificant  place  on  the  S.  bank 
of  the  Guadiana,  which  the  train  again  nears.  Beyond  the  Ouivora, 
a  stream  descending  from  the  Serra  de  Sao  Mamede  (p.  451),  we 
obtain  a  good  view  to  the  left  of  Badajoz,  rising  over  the  S.  bank 
of  the  Guadiana.  The  train  skirts  the  N.  side  of  the  Cerro  de  8an 
Cristdbalj  with  the  fort  named  below. 

316  M.  Badajoz.  —  The  Railway  Station  (ReetaurarU)  lies  1  M.  to  the 
N.W.  of  the  town,  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Cerro  de  Cristobal.  Omnibutes 
meet  all  trains. 

Hotel.    Hdlel  Central^  Campo  de  San  Juan. 

Badajoz  (510  ft.),  the  capital  of  a  province,  the  see  of  a  bishop, 
the  seat  of  the  Captain-General  of  Estremadura,  and  a  strong  frontier 
fortress,  is  a  town  of  25,900  inhab.,  owing  its  importance  to  its 
position  on  a  low  range  of  hills,  which  the  Guadiana  has  penetrated 
between  the  castle-hill  on  the  left  and  the  Cerro  de  San  Cristdbal 
on  the  right.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  rampart  with  eight  bastions  and 
four  small  forts :  San  Roque  and  Picurina  to  the  E.  (beyond  the  little 
Rivillas),  Pardaleras  to  the  S.,  and  San  Vicente  to  the  W.  On  the 
right  bank  of  the  Guadiana  it  is  farther  protected  by  a  tete-de-pont 
and  the  strong  Faerte  de  San  OrUt6hal,  The  last-named  fort  and  the 
Castillo  (adm.  only  by  permit  from  the  Capitania  General)  afford  fine 
views  of  the  corn-fields  and  pastures  round  the  town. 

Badi^oz,  the  Batallium  or  Pax  Augmta  of  the  Romans,  is  little  heard 
of  in  antiquity.  After  the  fall  of  the  Caliphate  of  Cordova,  the  Beni  al-A/ta* 
or  Aftateide*  established  a  small  independent  kingdom  at  *Badalioz\  This, 
however,  was  overthrown  by  the  Almoravidet  (p.  309)  in  1094,  eight  years 
after  their  defeat  of  Alfonso  VI.  of  Castile  at  Sacralias  or  Sallaca,  near 
Badajoz.  Alfonso  I.  of  Portugal  occupied  the  place  in  1168,  but  its  final 
deliverance  from  the  Moors  was  effected  by  Al/otuo  IX.  of  Leon  in  1229. 
As  the  'key  of  Portugal",  Badajoz  plays  an  important  role  in  mode*'- 
history.    It  was  besieged  by  the  Portuguese  in  1660  and  by  the  Alliei 


468   Route  48.  BADAJOZ. 

the  War  of  the  Spanish  Succesiion  In  1705.  The  French  made  UBSuceeasf  ul 
attempts  to  capture  it  in  1806  and  1809,  and  Soolt  succeeded  in  doing  so 
in  1811  only  by  the  corruption  of  Jo*i  Imaz^  the  Spanish  commander.  The 
result  was  that  Andalusia  remained  a  year  longer  in  the  hands  of  the 
French.  Wellington  invested  Badajoz  in  March,  1812,  and  its  capiare  by 
assault  on  April  6fh  was  one  of  the  most  brilliant  achievementa  of  the 
British  army  during  the  Peninsular  War.  The  besiegers  lost  5000  killed 
and  wounded.  Perhaps  it  is  not  too  frivolous  to  remind  the  reader  that 
Ben  Battle  4eft  his  legs  in  Badajoz's  breaches\ 

From  the  railway-station  we  enter  the  town^by  the  granite  Pubntb 
DB  LAS  Palmas,  Completed  In  1596  after  a  plan  by  Herrera,  wliich 
crosses  the  river  in  32  arches.  It  is  640  yds.  long,  23  ft.  wide,  and 
45  ft.  high.  At  the  town  end  is  the  embattled  Puerta  de  las  PcUmtis. 
The  bridge  has  often  been  damaged  by  floods. 

The  Calle  de  Oabriel,  beginning  at  the  gate,  is  prolonged  by  the 
Calle  de  Hemdn  Cortes,  in  which  (right)  is  the  Palacio  de  la  Dipu- 
taci6n  Ptovineial ,  containing  the  small  Museo  ArqueoUSgico.  This 
street  leads  ns  to  the  Campo  de  San  Juan  or  Plaza  de  la  CoruHtuddnj 
the  focus  of  the  town,  surrounded  by  the  town-hall,  a  theatre,  sev- 
eral caf^s,  and  the  cathedral. 

The  Cathbdhal  op  St.  Juan  is  a  massive,  fortress-like  building, 
erected  about  1258  by  Alfonso  the  Learned.  The  Renaissance  facade, 
with  a  statue  of  John  the  Baptist,  is  of  modern  origin. 

Iktkbiob.  The  effect  is  marred  by  the  obtrusive  position  of  the  large 
Renaissance  coro,  with  its  fine  SiUeria,  The  painting  of  the  Magdalen, 
ascribed  to  Van  Dyck,  is  really  by  Maieo  de  Cerezo.  The  OapiUa  de  Santa 
Ana  contains  two  works  by  Luis  Morales  (1509-86),  sumamed  El  JHvno, 
who  was  a  native  of  Badajoz;  they  have,  unfortunately,  been  retouched. 
Over  the  altar  of  the  Gapilla  de  los  Duques  is  a  Florentine  relief  of  the 
Madonna  (16th  cent.).  On  the  floor  in  front  of  it  is  the  brass,  probably  by 
the  Venetian  Aleeeandro  Leopardi,  of  Lorenzo  Suarez  de  Figueroa,  who 
died  in  1606  as  Spanish  ambassador  in  Venice. 

The  Calle  de  San  Juan  leads  from  the  N.E.  angle  of  the  plaza  to 
the  church  of  La  Concepcidn,  with  two  pictures  by  Morales.  Farther 
on  are  the  CasUllo  (p.  457),  probably  on  the  site  of  the  old  Roman 
town,  and  the  HoapiiaX  Military  erected  on  the  site  of  the  Moorish 
mosque  which  was  for  a  time  used  as  a  cathedral. 

In  the  S.W.  part  of  the  town  are  the  Palacio  Episcopal  (Calle  de 
Moreno  Nieto)  and  the  Plaaa  de  San  Francisco,  an  attractive  prom- 
enade. The  Cuartel  de  la  Boniba  (cavalry  barracks)  on  the  S.  side 
of  this  plaza  occupy  the  site  of  the  Moorish  Alcazaba. 

From  Badajoz  to  Torre  doe  Vargent  and  Uebon^  see  B.  60. 


49.  From  Seville  to  M^rida  (Badajoz ^  Lisbon) 
vi&  Tocina  and  Zafra. 

149  M.  Eailwat  (two  trains  daily)  in  SV^ISV*  hrs.  (fares  80  p.  6  c, 
22 p.,  16  p.);  to  ZAtbon,  866  M.,  direct  through-train  in  2i  hrs.  Trains  start 
from  the  Eetaeidn  de  Cdrdoba  (p.  387).  There  is  no  railway-restaurant  «n 
route,  so  the  traveller  should  not  forget  a  luncheon-basket.  —  This  line 
is  the  direct  route  from  Seville  to  Portugal  for  all  who  do  not  prefer  the 


ZAFRA.  49.  Route.   459 

sea-Toy^e  from  Cadiz  to  Lisbon  (comp.  p.  436).     It  traverses  some  pretty 
scenery,  especially  in  the  Sierra  Morena. 

From  Seville  to  (22  M.)  Tocma  (Empalme),  see  p.  305.  The 
train  crosses  the  Ouadalquivir  by  a  bridge  550  yds.  long  and  enters 
the  valley  of  its  N.  tributary;  the  Huema.  —24  M.  Tocina(Puehlo); 
271/2  M.  Villanueva  de  las  Minos,  with  valuable  coal-pits.  —  We 
now  cross  to  the  right  bank.  47  M.  Fdbrica  del  Pedr6sOy  with  large 
iron-mines,  foundries,  and  forges. 

53  M.  Cazalla  de  la  Sierra,  a  busy  nkiniug  town,  with  iron 
foundries  and  7100  inhab.,  prettily  situated  In  the  Sierra  Morena. 
—  The  train  quits  the  valley  of  the  Huema  and  beyond  (60  M.) 
Alanfs  crosses  the  Benalijar.  It  then  ascends,  passing  (68  M.) 
Chiodaleanal  (5800  inhab.),  with  its  deserted  lead  and  silver  mines, 
to  the  Puerto  de  Sevilla  or  de  Llerena,  where  it  crosses  the  frontier 
between  Andalusia  and  Lower  Estremadura  in  a  tunnel  1100  yds. 
long.  —  We  now  descend  to  the  S.W.,  skirting  the  N.W.  slope  of 
the  Sierra  de  San  Miguel.  76  M.  Fuente  del  Arco,  the  first  place  in 
the  province  of  Badajoz;  80  M.  Castis  y  Reina. 

84  M.  Llerena  (1863  ft.),  a  town  of  5700  inhab.,  long  in  the 
hands  of  the  Knights  of  Santiago  after  its  recapture  from  the  Moors 
(1241).  The  Parroquia  de  la  Oranada,  a  handsome  Renaissance 
edifice,  has  a  tower,  174  ft.  high,  erected  in  imitation  of  the  Giralda 
of  Seville.  —  We  penetrate  the  spurs  of  the  Sierra  de  San  Miguel 
by  three  short  tunnels.    90  M.  Viliagarcta,  with  a  ruined  castle. 

109  M.  Zafra  (Posada  de  Pepe),  a  venerable  town  with  5500  in- 
hab., the  Segeda  of  the  Iberians,  the  Julia  Restituta  of  the  Romans, 
and  the  Z&far  of  the  Moors,  is  picturesquely  situated  between  the 
Sierra  de  San  Cristdbal  on  the  N.  and  the  Sierra  de  Castellar  on  the 
W.  The  energy  of  its  inhabitants  has  won  it  the  by-name  of  *  Se- 
villa la  Ghica*.  Celebrated  cattle-fairs  (Feria  de  San  Juan  and  Feria 
de  San  Miguel)  are  held  here  in  June  and  October.  —  The  chief 
point  of  interest  is  the  *Aloazab,  a  Gothic  building  on  a  lofty 
situation  to  the  £.,  reached  by  the  Puerta  del  Acebuche,  This  was 
the  seat  of  the  Figueroas,  Dukes  of  Feria ,  now  Dukes  of  Medina- 
celi.  It  was  built  by  Lorenzo  Suarez  de  Figueroa  in  1437,  and  with 
its  old  towers  and  galleries  affords  an  admirable  example  of  a  Spanish 
feudal  palace.  The  patio  was  modernized  in  the  16th  century.  The 
only  relic  left  by  the  French  (1811)  of  the  large  collection  of  wea- 
pons is  an  iron-hooped  cannon.  —  The  Convento  de  Santa  Maria 
contains  the  tomb  of  Lady  Margaret  Harrington  (1601),  a  lady-in- 
waiting  of  Jane  Dormer  (see  below).  In  the  Convenio  de  Santa  Clara 
is  the  tomb  of  Lorenzo  Suarez  de  Figueroa,  Count  of  Feria,  and  his 
wife  Isabella  de  Mendoza  (d.  1693) ;  it  was  mutilated  by  the  French. 
Here,  too,  is  the  tomb  of  Jane  Dormer  (d.  1612),  the  favourite  maid- 
of-honour  of  Mary  the  Catholic  of  England  and  afterwards  wife  of 
the  first  Duke  of  Feria. 

From  Zafra  to  Huelva,  see  p.  425. 


460   Route  49.  ALMENDRALEJO. 

The  railway  now  sweeps  round  to  tbe  N.E.  Beyond  (115  M.^ 
Lo8  Santos  de  Maimona  it  descends  to  the  N.  to  (122  M.)  ViUafranca 
dt  Zo«Barro«  (9400 inhab.),  the  first  place  in  the  fertile,  but  almost 
treeless  Tierra  de  los  Barron,  —  131  M.  Ahnend^aleio^  a  flonrishing 
town  with  11,900  Inhab.,  in  the  midst  of  the  Tierra  de  los  Barros. 
—  Beyond  (145  M.)  CalOmonU  we  cross  the  Gnadiana  by  an  iron 
bridge  385  yds.  long,  affording  a  yiew  to  the  right  of  the  Roman 
bridge  (p.  456). 

149  M.  Minda,  see  p.  455. 


Vli.  LEON,  ASTURIAS,  AND  QALICIA. 


60.  From  Medina  del  Gampo  to  Salamanca,  Fuente  San 

Esttfban,  and  Vlllar  Formoso  (Pampllhosa,  Lisbon)  .  464 
From  Salamanca  to  Plasencia  ^  to  Aatorga  (Zamora),  472. 

51.  From  Palencla  to  Leon  and  Corunna 473 

From  Corunna  to  Ferrol,  484. 

62.  From  Leon  to  Oviedo  and  Gijon 484 

Excursions  from  Oviedo.  Naranco.  Trubia.   Covadonga, 
488.  —  From  Gijon  to  Avil^a  and  Villaviciosa,  491. 

53.  From  Monforte  to  Vigo  and  Santiago  de  Oompostela  .  491 
From  Guillarey  to  Yalen^a  do  Hinho.   Tuy,  493.  —  Ex- 
cursions from  Vigo.   Bayona,  etc.,  494. 


For  introductory  remarks  on  Ijeon,  see  pp.  6-8. 

The  former  kingdom  of  Galida^  occupying  the  N.W.  corner  of 
the  Iberian  peninsula,  now  comprises  the  provinces  of  Coruna,  Lugo^ 
OrensCj  and  Pontevedray  with  4,000,000  inhab.  and  a  joint  area  of 
11,340  sq.  M.  On  the  N.  and  W.  it  is  bounded  by  the  Atlantic 
Ocean,  on  the  S.  by  Portugal,  and  on  the  E.  by  Leon  and  Asturias. 
The  last,  the  old  FHncipado  de  AatHriaa,  is  represented  by  the  single 
province  of  Oviedo,  4093  sq.  M.  in  area  and  containing  620,000  in- 
habitants. On  the  N.  it  is  bounded  by  the  Bay  of  Biscay,  oh  the 
S.  by  the  crest  of  the  Cantabrian  Mts. ,  and  on  the  E,  by  the  province 
of  Santander. 

Both  districts  are  of  a  pronouncedly  Alpine  character  and  belong 
without  question  to  the  most  beautiful  parts  of  Spain  and  Indeed  of 
Europe.  Their  scenic  charm  depends  mainly  on  the  varied  and  pic- 
turesque disposition  of  the  mountain-chains,  which  ramify  in  all . 
directions  and  form  a  perfect  labyrinth  of  peaks  and  ridges,  valleys 
and  ravines.  The  general  aspect  of  Oalicia  is  somewhat  softer  and 
more  attractive  than  that  of  Asturias ;  its  mountain-slopes  are  more 
thickly  wooded,  the  crests  and  valleys  have  more  pastures  and  mead- 
ows, while  its  coasts,  penetrated  by  deep  *rias*  (fjords)  and  sprinkled 
with  safe  and  roomy  harbours,  make  a  pleasanter  and  more  hospitable 
impression.  In  Asturias,  on  the  other  hand,  the  mountains  are  less 
accessible,  the  ravines  are  steeper  and  more  chaotic,  and  the  top- 
most peaks  generally  consist  of  forbidding  masses  of  rock,  covered 
with  snow  throughout  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  while  the  coast 
is  lined  by  an  almost  unbroken  series  of  sheer  and  unapproachable 
cliffs.  In  both  districts  the  whole  of  the  available  surface  is  care-  ' 
fully  cultivated  and  produces,  thanks  to  the  moist  and  equable 
climate,  most  bounteous  crops.  The  villages  are  generally  em- 
bosomed in  grovM  of  fruit-trees,  chestnuts,  and  walnuts ;  and  in 
the  more  sheltered  situations  vines,  olives,  almonds,  figs,   a' 


462  LEON,  ASTURIAS,  AND  GALICIA. 

oranges  also  fioarish.  Large  numbers  of  cattle  are  raised  in  tlie 
higher  lying  districts,  and  fishing  is  actiyely  prosecuted  along  the 
coasts.  Both  Galicia  and  Asturias  are  rich  in  iron,  lead,  and  other 
ores,  and  in  mineral  springs,  including  sulphuretted  waters  of  im- 
portant  medicinal  quality.  Asturias  also  possesses  extensiTe  deposits 
of  coal,  and  peat  and  amber  are  found  in  its  coast^plains. 

The  differences  in  character  between  theGalicians  and  the  Astur^ 
ians  correspond  to  those  of  their  countries.  The  Asturians  spring  from 
the  union  of  the  aboriginal  inhabitants  with  the  Goths  and  consider 
themselves,  like  the  Basques,  free  and  independent  hidalgos.  They 
have  all  the  traits  of  ancient  and  self-conscious  mountaineers,  with 
much  reserve  and  little  grace  of  manner,  but  are  honest  and  trust- 
worthy, showing  great  boldness  as  mariners  and  forming  admirable 
soldiers  and  colonists.  The  *Galleg08'  are  more  closely  akin  to  the 
Portuguese  than  to  any  other  Spanish  race.  I'hey  spring  from  a 
blending  of  the  original  Celtic  inhabitants  with  the  Romans,  Vandals, 
Suevi,  Goths,  Moors,  and  Castilians ;  and  they  exhibit  all  the  pe- 
culiarities of  people  who  have  been  exposed  during  many  centuries 
to  the  influence  and  domination  of  foreign  conquerors.  Almost 
devoid  of  all  independent  spirit,  they  are  much  better  suited  for 
servants  than  for  masters.  They  are  docile  and  good-natured, 
temperate  and  frugal,  ready  for  any  task,  full  of  piety  and  under 
the  thumb  of  the  priesthood.  In  comparison  with  other  Spaniards 
they  seem  heavy  and  limited ;  on  the  stage  the  part  of  the  slow- 
witted  and  good-humoured  simpleton  is  always  assigned  to  the 
Galician,  and  in  Central  and  S.  Spain  the  epithet  ^Gallego'  is  used 
as  a  term  of  abuse. 

In  one  point  the  Galicians  and  Asturians  share  the  same  fate ; 
both  are  poor,  in  spite  of  their  unremitting  toil  and  the  natural 
resources  of  their  countries.  The  population  is  too  dense,  especially 
in  Galicia,  and  the  peasant  is  too  heavily  taxed  ever  to  attain  the 
freehold  of  his  patch  of  land.  Thousands  emigrate  annually  to  S. 
America,  Portugal,  and  other  parts  of  Spain,  where  they  earn  their 
bread  as  peasants,  porters,  and  scavengers.  The  women  are  much  in 
request  as  nurses.  Like  the  Basques,  however,  they  are  possessed 
by  an  inextinguishable  love  of  their  country ;  and  those  who  save  a 
little  money  in  foreign  parts  invariably  return  to  finish  their  laborious 
lives  at  home.  Physically  both  Asturians  and  Galicians  are  strongly 
built  and  robust,  while  the  complexions  of  the  women  are  fresh  and 
healthy}  beauties,  however,  are  rare  in  either  sex. 

In  point  of  education  both  districts  stand  on  a  low  level.  At 
the  beginning  of  1895  the  communities  of  Galicia  and  Asturias 
were  in  debt  to  the  school-masters  to  the  amount  of  about  360,000 
pesetas  (in  the  whole  of  Spain  10,527,319  pesetas).  The  means 
of  transportation  are  also  very  inadequate.  The  hotels,  on  the  other 
^and,  at  least  in  the  larger  towns,  are  no  worse  than  in  other  parts 

'■^ain. 


LEONj-ASTURlAS,  AND  GALIOIA.  463 

HisTOBY.  The  Phcenicians  and  Cartliaginians  never  snoceeded 
in  penetrating  into  the  interior  of  Asturias.  The  Romans  took  two 
hundred  years  to  snhdne  it,  and  the  Goths  also  had  to  struggle  long 
and  fiercely  before  attaining  a  firm  foothold  here.  The  attempts  of 
the  Moors  to  reduce  it  under  their  domination  were  entirely  unsuc- 
cessful. The  fragments  of  the  Qothic  army  that  was  defeated  on 
the  Gnadalete  found  shelter  in  the  mountains  round  Oovadonga;  and 
Pelayo,  voluntarily  accepted  by  the  Asturians  as  their  leader,  began 
from  this  fastness  the  Christian  reconquest  of  Spain.  Asturias  must 
be  regarded  as  the  cradle  not  only  of  the  kingdom  of  Leon  but  of 
the  Spanish  monarchy  as  a  whole.  The  title  of  Prince  of  Asturias, 
borne  by  the  heir-apparent  to  the  Spanish  throne,  dates  from  1388, 
when  the  district  was  made  a  principality.  Galicia  was  twice  for  a 
short  time  an  independent  kingdom  (585  and  1060-71)  before  its 
final  incorporation  with  Leon  (1071).  The  Moors  failed  here  also 
in  securing  any  permanent  foothold.  At  the  beginning  of  the  present 
century  both  Asturias  and  Galicia  were  repeatedly  and  ruthlessly 
devastated  by  the  French  under  Soult,  Ney,  and  Marchand. 


464 


50.  From  Medina  del  Campo  to  Salamanca,  Fuente  San 
EsMban,  and  Villar  Formoso  (Pampil/iosa,  Lisbon  J. 

iO&i/t  M.  Railway  (one  through -tnin  daily)  in  6Vs  hrs.  (fares  24  p., 
18  p.  5.  10  p.  POc);  to  Salamanca,  48  M..  two  trains  daUy  in  2^jU  hrs. 
(farea  o  p.  90,  6  p.  65  c,  4  p.).  The  'train  ae  luxe*  mentioned  at  p.  8  runs 
twice  weekly  between  Medina  del  Campo  and  Lisbon  in  I6V2  lurs.  (to  Lisbon 
on  Wed.  and  San.,  from  Lisbon  on  Toes,  and  Frid.).  There  are  plsdn 
railway  restaurants  at  Fvente  San  EtUban  and"  Villar  Formoto.  —  From 
Fuente  San  Est^ban  to  Barca  d'Alva  and  Oporto,  see  B.  69. 

Medina  del  CampOy  see  p.  19.  —  The  line  sweeps  round  the 
town  in  a  wide  curve  and  then  runs  to  the  S.W.  through  an  inter- 
minable, grain-growing  plain.    7^2  M.  Campillo  de  Salvatierra. 

131/2  M.  Carpio,  with  the  old  palace  of  the  counts  of  that  name. 
We  cross  the  Trabancos,  an  affluent  of  the  Douro,  by  an  lion  bridge 
132  ft.  long.  20 V2  M.  CanteUapiedrOj  the  first  station  in  the  Leonine 
province  of  Salamanca.  The  train  crosses  the  Ouarena^  and  soon 
after  its  tributary  the  CotorriUo. 

27  M.  CaroUna;  33  M.  Pedroso;  4OV2  M;  Oomecello.  —  A  hilly 
district  is  now  traversed.    44  M.  MorUros.  —  48  M.  Salamanca. 


Salamanca.  —  Arrival.  The  Raiheaif  SUUion  (beyond  PI.  D,  1)  lies 
to  the  N.E.  of  the  city,  IV4  H.  from  the  Plaza  Mayor.  Hotel  OmnHnues  and 
the  Omnibus  Oeneralet  (p.  xvi)  meet  the  trains,  but  no  cabs.  —  Detpcuho  Central 
(p.  xvi),  at  the  N.W.  corner  of  the  Plaza  Mayor. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xx).  Hotel  del  Gokebcio  (PI.  a;  G,  3),  Plazuela  de 
Santo  Tome,  in  ttie  Spanish  style,  pens.  7-10,  omn.  1  p. ;  *Hotsl  ds  la  Bcb- 
GALESA  (PI.  D  -y  G,  3),  Galle  de  Espoz  y  Hina,  unpretending,  pens.  6-7  p. 

Cafes.  Cafi  del  Pasaje^  in  the  passage  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Plaza 
Mayor;  Ca/i  Sttizo^  Galle  de  Zamora,  near  the  Plaza  Mayor;  Ca/i-Re^v- 
rant  de  la  Universidad,  Galle  de  la  Bua  65. 

Post  Office  {Correo ;  PI.  G,  3),  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Plaza  Mayor. 

Baths  on  the  S.  side  of  the  Plaza  San  Francisco. 

Booksellers :  Viuda  de  Galon  e  Hijo^  Plaza  Mayor  33  (also  photographs). 

Bull  Bing  (PUua  de  Torot)^  one  of  the  largest  in  Spain,  to  the  N.  of 
the  town,  V2  M.  from  the  old  Puerta  de  Zamora  (PI.  G,  1,  2). 

Chief  Attractions  (visit  of  one  day).  PUua  Mayor  (p.  465) ;  Ckua  de  la* 
Conchas  (p.  466)  3,  iVetr  and  Old  Cathedrals  (pp.  466,  467) ;  Roman  Bridge  (p.  471); 
University  (p.  468) ;  San  Estihan  (p.  46'^} ;  Torre  del  Cldvero  (p.  470);  Casa  de  la 
SaUna  (p.  470) ;  Agustinas  Church  (p.  470). 

Salamanca  (2645  ft.),  a  city  with  22,000  inhab.,  the  capital  of 
a  province,  the  see  of  a  bishop,  and  the  seat  of  a  venerable  and 
celebrated  university,  deserves  a  visit  not  alone  for  its  historical 
associations,  but  also  for  the  number  of  interesting  buildings  of  its 
zenith  that  it  still  retains.  These  are  all  built  of  the  same  material, 
a  light-coloured  sandstone  to  which  the  course  of  time  has  imparted 
a  wonderful  golden-brown  hue.  The  situation  of  the  city,  in  the 
gradual  slope  to  the  N.  of  the  Tormes  and  in  the  midst  of  an  almost 
treeless  upland  plain,  has  few  attractions,  though  it  is  saved  from 
".bsolute  dreariness  by  the  distant  view  of  the  summits  —  often  clad 

^  snow  —  of  the  Pena  de  Francia  to  the  S.  and  the  Sierra  de 


;!  i  111*1  a  4n  '"-  -jf.        '  3?>:bi»J    j-    liti'Salilort'omaii 


^f      s 


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tJfto^riplu  ATMlttJlvonr 


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*Hn«'*'llt*M,>rrL, 


SALAMANCA.  Route  50,   465 

Avila  to  the  S.E.  The  climate  is  marked  by  the  most  extreme  con- 
trasts; the  winter  is  almost  as  raw  as  at  Burgos  or  Avila,  the  sum- 
mer is  insnpportably  hot. 

Salamanca  is  tbe  ancient  Salmantica^  which  was  captured  by  Hannibal 
in  B.C.  217  and  afterwards  belonged  to  the  Boman  province  of  Luaitania. 
During  the  Moorish  supremacy  the  city  was  taken  and  retaken  more  than 
once.  It  attained  to  new  importance  under  Alfonso  VI.  of  Castile,  who 
about  the  year  1100  summoned  many  French  and  other  settlers  into  tbe 
district,  and  encouraged  Count  Baymond  of  Burgundy  and  his  wife  the  In- 
fanta TJrraca,  the  so-called  ^Condes  Bepobladores^,  to  enlarge  and  beautify 
the  city.  The  celebrated  Fuero  de  Salamanca,  or  ancient  civic  law  of  Salamanca, 
probably  dates  from  the  end  of  the  12th  century.  The  international  reputation 
of  the  city  was,  however,  due  to  its  University,  founded  by  Alfonso  IX.  of 
Leon  (d.  1290).  This  quickly  outshone  the  Castilian  university  at  Palencia, 
and  as  early  as  1254  it  was  placed  by  Pope  Alexander  IV.  on  a  par  with 
the  three  great  universities  of  Bologna,  Paris,  and  Oxford.  The  charac- 
teristic function  of  this  great  institution,  which  at  the  height  of  its  fame 
(16ih  cent.)  was  attended  by  7000  students  from  all  parts  of  the  civilized 
world,  was  to  introduce  the  learning  of  Arabia  to  the  rest  of  Europe. 
Salamanca^s  share  in  the  revolt  of  the  Comuneros  (p.  64)  entailed  no  evil 
results ;  the  decline  of  the  city  began  when  Philip  II.  transferred  the  court 
from  Toledo  to  Valladolid  and  when  the  Moriscoea  were  expelled  in  1610. 
Fresh  blows  were  inflicted  on  it  by  the  War  of  the  Spanish  Succession  and  by 
the  War  of  Liberation  a  century  later.  In  1811  tbe  French  under  Tfaiebaut 
converted  Salamanca  into  a  fortified  place  and  pulled  down  almost  the 
whole  of  the  S.W.  part  of  the  town.  Next  year,  after  the  battle  of  Sala- 
manca or  Arapiles  (see  p.  472),  it  was  ruthlessly  plundered  and  devastated 
by  the  French  trrops. 

In  approaching  the  city  from  the  railway-station,  we  pass  between 
(left)  the  AlamedUla  (p.  471)  and  the  (right)  Old  BuU  Bing  and  enter 
by  the  former  Puerta  de  Zamora  (PI.  C,  1,  2).  The  Calle  de  Zamora, 
a  wide  but  little  frequented  street,  leads  hence  to  the  S.,  passing 
(right)  the  church  of  San  Marcos  (PI.  C,  2),  a  curious  circular  struc- 
ture in  the  Romanesque  style,  dating  from  about  1200.  The  interior 
is  interesting  for  the  ingenuity  with  which  the  usual  three  apses  of 
Spanish  churches  haye  been  combined  with  the  circular  shape  of 
the  church.  Farther  on  are  the  Plazuela  de  Santo  Tom^,  the  Plazuela 
de  la  Libertad  (PI.  C,  3),  and  (left)  the  Palacio  de  lot  Maldonados 
de  Amatos  (now  a  casino).  The  Calle  de  Zamora  ends  at  the  large  — 

*Flaza  Mayor  (PI.  C,  3),  the  centre  of  the  city,  the  scene  of  the 
bull-fights  down  to  1863,  and  the  finest  square  of  the  kind  in  Spain. 
It  is  surrounded  with  lofty  four -storied  buildings,  dating  from 
1710-80,  with  colonnades  on  the  groundfloor,  greatly  frequented  as 
promenades,  especially  in  the  evening.  The  houses  on  the  E.  and 
S.  sides  bear  portrait-medallions.  On  the  N.  side  rises  the  Casa  de 
Ayuntamiento  (PI.  0,  3),  a  baroque  structure  by  Churriguera.  The 
centre  is  occupied  by  pleasure-grounds  and  a  music  pavilion.  — 
To  the  E.  of  the  Plaza  Mayor  is  the  Plaza  de  laVerdura  (PI.  C,  3,  4), 
or  vegetable-market.  —  The  Calle  del  Prior  leads  to  the  W.  to  the 
Agustinas  church  (p.  470). 

The  passage  at  the  S.W.  angle  of  the  Plaza  Mayor  leads  to  the 
church  of  San  Martin  (PI.  C,  4),  a  late-Romanesque  edifice  in  the 
so-called  Transition  style,  said  to  have  been  originally  founded  in 

BAEDEfEs's  Spain.  30 


466  Route  50,  SALAMANCA.  New  Cathedral, 

1103.  On  the  N.  side  is  a  Romanesqae  doorway,  with  curious 
capitals  and  mouldings  and  a  painted  relief  of  St.  Martin  (on  hone- 
back)  and  the  beggar  (13th  cent.).  The  Renaissance  portal  on  the 
S.  side  has  another  representation  of  the  same  scene.  The  interior 
contains  seven  fine  Gothic  •  Tombs,  two  under  the  coro  alto,  two  in 
the  right  aisle, .  and  three  in  the  left.  The  most  beautiful  are,  per- 
haps, the  mnral  monuments  of  Ruberte  and  Diego  de  Santisteban 
(15th  cent.),  both  in  the  left  aisle. 

From  the  S.  side  of  St.  Martin's  Church  the  Calle  de  la  Rua  leads 
to  the  8.W.  directly  to  the  cathedral.  To  the  right,  about  halfway, 
at  the  comer  of  the  Calle  de  Melendez,  stands  the  Gothic  Casa  de 
las  Conohas  (PI.  B,  4),  dating  from  1514  and  named  from  the 
scallop-shells  that  sprinkle  the  facades  and  are  repeated  in  the 
beautiful  Gothic  window-grilles.  The  picturesque  court  and  the 
vaulting  of  the  staircase  are  also  interesting  (fee  50  c.).  It  is  the 
property  of  the  Marquis  de  Valdecartana.  —  Opposite,  in  the  Calle 
de  Melendez,  is  the  Seminabio  Cokciliab  (PI.  6,  4),  or  Colegio  de 
la  Compania,  built  for  the  Jesuits  in  1617-1750,  from  a  design  by 
Juan  Oomes  de  Mora,  and  covering  an  area  of  23,900  sq.  yds.  The 
large  baroque  church  is  surmounted  by  a  dome. 

The  Plaza  del  Colboio  Vdbjo  (PI.  A,  5),  laid  out  by  Gen.  Thie- 
baut  in  1811,  is  bounded  on  the  W.  by  the  University  (p.  468)  and 
the  Palacio  EpUcopal  (PI.  B,  5;  1436),  on  the  N.E.  by  the  former 
Colegio  VUjo  or  de  8an  BartolomS,  founded  by  Diego  de  Anaya 
(p.  468)  in  1401  and  rebuilt  since  1760,  and  on  the  S.  by  the  New 
Cathedral. 

The  erection  of  the  *Catedral  Kneva  (PI.  B,  6)  was  contem- 
plated by  the  'Catholic  Kings'  as  early  as  1491,  as  the  old  cathedral 
was  found  'very  small,  very  dark,  and  very  low' ;  but  the  building 
was  not  actually  begun  till  1509,  under  the  superintendence  of 
Anton  Egos  and  Alonso  Rodriguez.  Differences  of  opinion  with 
the  cathedral  chapter  led  in  1512  to  the  appointment  of  a  commission 
of  nine  architects  and  to  several  alterations  in  the  design.  Juan  Gil 
de  Hontanon  became  the  supervising  architect  in  1513.  Numerous 
later  interruptions  occurred,  and  the  work  was  not  Anally  completed 
till  1733.  The  cathedral  thus  affords,  not  exactly  to  its  artistic  ad- 
vantage, a  record  in  stone  of  the  lapse  of  time  and  the  changes  of 
taste.  The  late-Gothic,  the  plateresque,  and  the  baroque  styles 
may  all  be  studied  here  side  by  side.  The  tower  at  the  S.W. 
angle  (360  ft.  high)  was  enclosed,  after  the  Lisbon  earthquake 
(p.  520),  with  an  unsightly  casing  of  brick. 

The  W.  Facade  is  profusely  adorned  with  sculpture.  Over  the 
main  doorway  are  reliefs  of  the  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds,  the 
Crucifixion,  and  other  subjects.  —  Above  the  N.  portal,  named  the 
Puerta  de  Barnes  or  del  Taller,  is  a  relief  of  Christ  entering  Jerusalem. 

The  •Intfbioe  (open  till  5  p.m.;  closed  chapels  and  cloisters 
shown  by  the  verger  for  a  fee  of  1  p.),  with  nave  and  aisles,  two 


Old  Cathedral.  SALAMANCA.  dO.  Route.   467 

rows  of  side-cliapels,  a  transept,  and  an  ambulatory,  is  very  im- 
posing, in  spite  of  the  intrusion  of  the  coro  and  the  unpleasing 
baroque  crossing,  on  account  of  its  great  height  and  width  and  the 
gorgeousness  of  its  colour  decorations.  It  is  340  ft.  long  and  168  ft. 
wide.  Two  balustrades,  resembling  trifoiia,  run  round  the  whole 
church;  the  older  of  these,  in  the  late-Gothic  style,  is  accompanied 
by  a  charming  frieze  of  animals  and  coats-of-arms  and  extends  along 
the  aisles  to  the  ambulatory;  the  later,  in  the  Renaissance  style, 
runs  along  the  nave  to  the  capllla  mayor.  Above  the  balustrades 
are  fine  medallions  with  portrait-busts. 

Most  of  the  other  works  of  art  are  insignificant.  On  the  Trascoro 
are  a  statue  of  John  the  Baptist  and  a  group  of  St.  Anna  and  the 
Virgin,  both  ascribed  to  Juan  de  Juni.  —  The  Choir  contains  stalls, 
richly  adorned  with  figures  and  heads  of  saints.  —  On  the  screen 
of  the  Oapilla  Mayor  are  angel-figures  by  Salvador  Carmona, 

Right  Aisle.  The  Capilla  Dorada  (2nd  chapel),  built  by  Arch- 
deacon Francisco  Sanchez  de  Palenzuela  in  1624,  contains  fine 
*azulejos'  and  numerous  statuettes  of  saints.  By  the  S.  wall  are  the 
tomb  of  the  founder  (d.  1630)  and  a  skeleton,  with  the  inscription 
*memento  mori'.  On  the  W.  is  a  small  and  charming  organ-screen. 
—  The  Capilla  del  Presidertte  de  lAihana  (3rd)  contains  a  copy  of 
TitiarCs  Entombment  —  Adjoining  the  door  leading  to  the  Old 
Cathedral  (p.  468)  is  a  charming  Holy  Family  ascribed  to  Morales  (?). 

In  the  second  chapel  of  the  Ambulatory,  beyond  the  Puerta 
del  Patio  Chico  (see  below),  is  a  door  leading  to  the  Sacristia  (1766). 
Adjoining  this  is  the  RelicariOy  with  the  celebrated  bronze  Crucifix 
of  the  Cid  (p.  26),  brought  to  Salamanca  by  Bishop  Jeronimo  Vis- 
quio  (see  below),  an  ivory  Madonna  of  the  14th  cent.  (?),  and  other 
treasures.  —  In  the  dim  Capilla  de  los  Dolores^  adjoining  the  fourth 
chapel  of  the  ambulatory  (Cap.  de  San  Jose)^  is  a  Pietk  by  Salvador 
Carmona.  —  The  Capilla  del  Carmen  (6th),  behind  the  high-altar, 
contains  the  modern  tomb  of  Jer6nimo  Visquio,  the  famous  comrade 
of  the  Cid  and  afterwards  bishop  of  Salamanca,  and  his  crucifix,  the 
'Cristo  de  las  Batallas'  (11th  cent.). 

The  Capilla  de  San  Antonio  de  Padua^  the  first  chapel  beyond  the 
transept  in  the  Left  Aisle,  contains  three  good  paintings  by  Fer- 
nando Oallegos :  Virgin  and  Child,    St.  Christopher,  St.  Andrew. 

The  late -Romanesque  *Catedral  Vieja  (PI.  B,  6),  or  Santa 
Maria  de  la  Sede,  founded  about  1100  by  Count  Raymond  of  Bur- 
gundy (?)  but  probably  not  finished  till  100  years  later,  is  one  of  the 
grandest  creations  of  the  Transition  style  in  Spain.  Owing  to  the 
massive  thickness  of  its  walls  (ca.  10  ft.),  it  is  also  known  as  Fortis 
Salmantina  (comp.  p.  403).  The  W.  Fa^ade^  the  door  of  which  is 
generally  closed,  has  been  entirely  modernized.  The  best  view  of 
the  E.  end  of  the  church,  with  its  three  semicircular  apses  and  its 
magnificent  lantern,  is  obtained  from  the  Patio  Chico,  the  small 
plaza  adjoining  the  door  of  that  name  in  the  New  Cathedral  (see  above} 

30* 


468    Route  50,  SALAMANCA.  Vniversity. 

The  lantern,  named  the  Torre  del  Qallo  from  the  cock  on  Its  apex, 
is  in  the  form  of  an  octagonal  tower,  adorned  with  arcades  and 
furnished  with  projecting  gables  and  four  round  corner- turrets. 
Mr.  Street  writes  that  he  had  seldom  seen  'any  central  lantern  more 
thoroughly  good  and  effective  from  every  point  of  view  than  this  is\ 

The  Inte&iob  fentered  from  the  S.  aisle  of  the  New  Cathe- 
dral ;  see  p.  467),  180  ft.  in  length,  is  remarkable  for  its  massive 
but  harmonious  proportions.  The  dome  over  the  crossing  is  *a  rare 
feature  treated  with  rare  success  and  with  complete  originality'. 
The  N.  transept  was  removed  to  make  room  for  the  New  Cathedral. 
The  most  striking  part  of  the  decoration  of  the  church  consists  in 
the  fantastic  figures  of  men  and  animals,  the  imps,  and  other  sculp- 
tures on  the  capitals,  corbels,  and  lower  ends  of  the  groining  ribs. 
The  principal  apse  contains  a  huge  fresco  of  the  Last  Judgment, 
below  which ,  in  Gothic  frames,  are  65  smaller  frescoes  of  scenes 
from  the  Life  of  Christ.  These  are  all  by  Nicola  Florentino,  of  the 
school  of  Giotto,  and  were  painted  after  1446.  —  In  the  S.  transept, 
which  contains  several  Gothic  tombs,  is  a  door  leading  to  the  — 

Cloistbks  (Claustro)^  built  about  1178  and  containing  a  few  un- 
important paintings  and  monuments.  The  E.  walk  is  adjoined  by 
two  interesting  chapels.  The  first  of  these  is  the  *Capilla  de  Tala- 
vera^  founded  about  1510  for  the  Mozarabic  ritual  (p.  135),  which 
is  still  celebrated  here  six  times  yearly.  It  contains  the  tomb  of 
Rodrigo  Arias  Maldonado  de  Talavera  (d.  1517).  The  parallel 
arrangement  of  the  groining  ribs  is  unusual.  The  second  chapel  is 
the  Gothic  Capilla  de  Santa  Barbara^  founded  in  1344  by  Bishop 
Juan  Lucero.  —  To  the  S.  of  the  cloisters  is  the  Capilla  de  San 
BartolomSj  founded  in  1422  by  Diego  de  Anaya,  Bishop  of  Sala- 
manca, ambassador  of  Spain  to  the  Council  of  Constance,  and  after- 
wards Archbishop  of  Seville.  It  contains  the  •Monument  of  the 
founder  (d.  1437),  and  the  tombs  of  several  members  of  his  family. 

The  Calle  de  San  Juan  de  Sahagun,  descending  to  the  S.W. 
from  the  Old  Cathedral,  ends  at  the  Puente  Romano  (p.  471).  — 
The  Calle  de  Calderon  de  la  Baria,  beginning  opposite  the  facade 
of  the  New  Cathedral,  leads  to  the  — 

♦Plazubla  db  la.  Univbbsidad,  a  quiet  little  square,  with  a 
bronze  statue  of  the  poet  Fray  Luis  de  Leon  (1628-91),  by  Nicasio 
Sevilla  (1869).  On  its  S.  side  stand  the  old  Eseuelaa  Menores 
(PI.  B,  6),  now  the  Instituto  Provincialy  with  a  plateresque  facade 
and  two  charming  doorways,  one  leading  to  the  Archives^  the  other 
to  an  elegant  court  and  the  Hospital  del  Estudio, 

Of  more  importance  is  the  Universidad  (PI.  B,  5),  or  Escuelas 

Mayoresy  on  the  E.  side  of  the  plaza.    The  university  was  originally 

built  in  an  unassuming  style  in  1415-33.    About  1480,  however, 

the  upper  part  was  entirely  rebuilt  by  the  'Catholic  Kings',  and  the 

side  provided  with  a  rich  •Facade,  forming  one  of  the  most 

'ant  examples  of  the  plateresque  style  and  profusely  adorned 


SanEsteban.  SALAMANCA.  60.  BouU.  469 

with  armorial  bearings,  busts,  and  otber  ornaments.  Above  tbe 
central  jamb  of  the  doorway  are  half-figures  of  Ferdinand  and  Isa- 
bella, enclosed  in  a  frame  with  a  Greek  inscription.  Higher  up  is 
a  good  relief  of  a  Pope  and  other  persons,  of  unknown  import. 

The  rooms  of  the  university  are  grouped  round  a  simple,  cloister- 
like  court.  (The  custodian  is  to  be  found  here  or  on  the  first  floor 
of  tjie  Archivo,  p.  468 ;  fee  ^/^-i  p.).  On  the  Ground  Floor 
one  of  the  old  Lecture  Booms,  said  to  have  been  that  of  Fray  Luis 
de  Leon  (see  above),  has  been  preserved ;  it  is  a  gloomy  chamber, 
with  the  professor's  cathedra  and  uneasy  wooden  benches  for  the 
students.  Adjacent  are  the  Paraninfo,  the  Sala  de  Qrados,  and  other 
more  modem-looking  apartments.  The  University  Chapel  was  remod- 
elled ^nd  spoiled  in  1767.  —  A  staircase,  with  a  Gothic  balustrade 
and  curious  reliefs  (bull-fights  of  the  15th  cent.,  etc.),  ascends  to 
the  First  Floor,  on  the  W.  side  of  which  are  a  corridor  with  a  fine 
artesonado  ceiling  and  the  University  Library  (SO  flOO  vo\s.\fo\md.ed 
by  Alfonso  the  Learned  in  1254.  —  The  number  of  students  is  now 
about  400. 

We  return  to  the  cathedral  and  follow  the  Calle  del  Tostado  to 
the  E.  to  (4  min.)  the  church  of  — 

•San  Est^ban  (PI.  0,  5),  or  Santo  Dominffo^  erected  in  1524- 
1610,  from  the  designs  of  Juan  de  Alava,  by  the  Dominicans,  who 
had  settled  in  Salamanca  in  1256.  The  rich  plateresque  facade  is 
ornamented  with  numerous  figures  of  saints,  a  charming  frieze  of 
fantastic  figures  of  men  and  beasts ,  and  a  relief  of  the  Stoning  of 
St.  Stephen  by  Qiovanni  Antonio  Ceroni  of  Milan  (1610).  —  The 
ground-plan  of  the  Interior  shows  an  aisleless  nave  flanked  with 
chapels ,  a  transept,  and  a  rectangular  choir,  with  a  fine  dome  over 
the  crossing.  The  general  effect  is  much  marred  by  the  three  heavy, 
over-decorated,  and  richly  gilt  baroque  altars  by  Churriguera.  The 
retablo  of  the  high-altar  is  adorned  with  statues  of  saints  by  Salvador 
Carmona,  with  the  highly  revered  bronze  group  of  the  Virgen  de  la 
Vega  (12th  cent.),  from  the  suppressed  Convento  de  la  Vega  (p.  470), 
and  with  a  Stoning  of  Stephen,  painted  by  Claudio  Coello  (1692J. 
The  Capilla  de  San  Pedro  Mdrtir,  the  last  chapel  in  the  nave  to  the 
left,-  contains  a  good  16th  cent,  painting  of  the  Martyrdom  of  St. 
Ursula.  —  On  the  W.  wall,  above  the  core  alto,  is  a  large  fresco  by 
j\ntonio  Palomino ,  representing  the  triumph  of  the  church  (1705). 

To  the  S.  of  the  church  is  the  Convento,  by  the  entrance  to  which 
are  a  bust  and  memorial  of  the  learned  Dominican  Fray  Diego  de 
Deza,  the  warm  friend  and  supporter  of  Columbus.  It  was  in  a 
room  of  this  convent,  named  Salon  de  Profundis ,  that  the  great 
discoverer  in  vain  endeavoured  to  convince  the  Salamanca  savants  of 
the  practicability  of  his  schemes  (1486).  — In  theN.E.  angle  of  the 
picturesque  cloisters  is  a  tablet  to  the  memory  of  the  Dominican 
Ftay  Domingo  de  Soto,  memorable  for  his  share  In  the  Council  o 
Trent.   The  adjoining  staircase  ascends  to  the  — 


470    Route  60,  SALAMANCA.  Mweum. 

MusBUM  (^Pl.  0,  5;  openjon  Tburs. ,  11-1,  and  Sun.,  10-1; 
fee  50  c),  containing  an  unimportant  collection  of  antiqaities. 
Among  these  are  reliefs  of  St.  Francis  receiying  the  stigmata  and 
the  Foundation  of  the  Franciscan  order  (both  by  the  entrance) ;  an 
ivory  crucifix  of  the  17th  cent,  (last  room) ;  and  an  unfinished  model 
by  Ghurriguera  for  the  Gasa  de  Ayuntamiento  (p.  465).  There  are 
also  several  valueless  paintings,  and  numerous  engravings  from  the 
magnificent  'Monumentos  Arquitectonicos*. 

The  Galle  de  Don  Francisco  Hontelu,  on  the  N.  side  of  St.  Stepben^s, 
leads  to  the  old  Puerta  de  Santo  Tomis,  passing  (right)  the  Colegio  de  la 
Calatrata  (PI.  0,  D,  5),  founded  in  1562  but  moderniEed  in  the  18th  cent., 
and  (left)  the  Romanesque  church  of  Santo  Tomdt  Cantuarense  (i.e,  Thomas 
a  Beeket  ^  PI.  D,  5) ,  with  a  picturesque  choir  and  a  modernized  interior. 
Beyond  the  site  of  the  gate  the  road  goes  on  to  the  suppressed  Honasterio 
de  Bemardas  del  Jesfis  and  the  old  CSonvento  de  la  Vega  (p.  469). 

To  the  N.W.  of  St.  Stephen's  stands  the  Convento  de  Dominicas 
de  Santa  Maria  or  Las  Dutnas  (PL  C,  5),  founded  in  1419,  v?rith  a 
fine  plateresque  doorway  and  a  cloister  (closed).  —  We  now  proceed 
to  the  N.W.,  through  theCalle  de  Juan  de  la  Fuente,  to  the  large  — 

Plaza  de  Gol6n  (PI.  G,  4),  formerly  named  the  Plazuela  de  la 
Yerba.  In  the  middle,  surrounded  by  pleasure-grounds,  is  a  Bronze 
Statue  of  Christopher  Columbus ,  erected  in  1892;  on  the  pedestal 
are  relief-busts  of  Isabella  the  Catholic  and  Diego  de  Deza.  —  In 
the  N.E.  angle  of  the  plaza  rises  the  *Torr6  del  ClaTero>  built  iu 
1480  by  Francisco  de  Sotomayor,  'Clavero'  (key-bearer)  of  the 
Alcantara  Order  (p.  450),  and  still  in  possession  of  his  family.  The 
lower  part  of  the  tower  is  square,  the  upper  octagonal ;  it  is  sur- 
rounded by  eight  turrets  (^cubos;  comp.  p.  32)  resting  on  corbels. 

In  the  N.W.  corner  of  the  plaza,  at  the  beginning  of  the  Calle  de 
San  Pablo  (leading  to  the  Plaza  Mayor,  p.  465),  lies  (left)  the  •Casa 
de  la  Salina  (PI.  G,  4),  built  by  the  Fonseca  family  in  1616  and 
now  the  Palacio  de  la  DiputacUSn  Provincial.  The  fine  facade  has 
a  portico  on  the  groundfloor  and  medallions  and  lavishly  decorated 
windows  on  the  first  floor.  On  the  N.  and  W.  sides  of  the  pictur- 
esque patio  are  galleries  supported  by  projecting  corbels  with  curious 
sculptured  figures.  The  S.  andE.  walls  are  adorned  with  medallions. 

The  Gallb  del  Prioe  (PI.  C,  B,  3 ;  p.  466)  leads  to  the  W.  from 
the  Plaza  Mayor  to  the  Plazuela  de  Monterey  (PI.  B,  3).  Just  to 
the  N.  of  it,  at  No.  6  Galle  de  Bordadores,  stands  the  tasteful  Casa 
de  las  Muertes  (PI.  B,  3),  dating  from  the  beginning  o^the  16th  cent- 
ury. In  the  middle  of  the  plateresque  facade  is  a  medallion-bust  of 
its  builder.  Archbishop  Alfonso  de  Fonseca  (d.  1512).  —  A  little  to 
the  S.W.,  in  the  Plazuela  de  las  Agustinas,  rises  the  imposing  Pa- 
lacio de  Monterey  (PI.  B,  3),  built  by  the  Count  of  Monterey  in  the 
16th  century.  The  massive  solidity  of  its  fortress-like  architecture 
is  broken  only  by  a  few  windows ;  at  the  angles  are  two  high  towers. 
—  Nearly  opposite  stands  the  Convento  de  las  Agustinas  Beooletas 
PI.  B,  3),  erected  in  1598-1636.    The  church  contains  two  pictures 


Roman  Bridge.         '  SALAMANCA.  60,  UouU,  471 

by  Bihtfa^  one  of  which,  over  the  high-altar,  is  his  celebrated 
**Conception  (1635),  notable  both  for  its  brilliant  colouring  and 
for  the  charming  llgure  of  the  Virgin ,  wrapped  in  a  beautifully 
painted  mantle,  gazing  upwards  with  modest  ecstasy,  and  surrounded 
by  joyous  angels.  The  other  Ribera,  in  the  S.  transept,  represents 
the  Virgin  and  Child,  with  SS.  Dominic  and  Antony  of  Padua. 

To  the  W.  of  this  point  is  the  Plaza  de  San  Francisco  (PI  A,  B,  3), 
with  its  pleasure-grounds,  to  the  S.W.  of  which  lies  the  old  Colegio 
de  Santiago  Apdstol  or  del  Anobiapo  (PI.  A,  3),  now  the  Colegio  de 
Nobles  ■  Irlandeses  J  or  seminary  for  Irish  Catholics.  Above  the 
plateresque  doorway,  by  AUmao  de  Covarrubias,  is  a  relief  of  St. 
James  conquering  the  Moors.  To  the  right  is.  the  entrance  to  the 
church,  which  contains  a  rotable  by  Berruguete  (1529).  —  The  two- 
storied  PatiOj  built  by  Pedro  de  Ibarra,  is  notable  for  the  charming 
capitals  of  its  columns  and  its  many  admirable  medallion-busts. 

The  Calle  de  Bordadores  (see  above)  leads  to  the  S.E.  from  the  Pla- 
zaela  de  Monterey  to  the  Plazuela  de  San  Benito,  with  the  church  of  San 
Benito  (PI.  B,  4),  built  in  1104  and  rebuilt  in  the  16th  century.  It  poss- 
esses a  fine  plateresque  doorway  (S.  side)  and  contains  numerous  monuments. 
Behind  the  church  are  two  private  houses  of  the  same  period,  the  Oata 
de  los  Suaret  Bolis  de  Canada  and    the  Casa  de  he  Maldonados  de  Mbrillo, 

—  A  few  yards  farther  on,  at  the  corner  of  the  Calle  Melendez,  is  the 
former  dwelling-house  of  Juan  Mekndez  Valdet  (1764-1817),  bearing  a  relief 
bust  of  the  poet. 

The  only  objects  of  interest  in  the  £.  quarters  of  the  city  are  the 
churches  of  the  Espiritu  Santo  (PI.  D,  3)  and  San  Mateo  (PI.  D,  2).  The 
former,  dating  from  1541,  has  a  rich  plateresque  S.  portal  by  Berrneuete 
and  a  fine  retablo  \  the  latter,  in  a  Gothic  style,  was  erected  in  1894  et 
seq.  on  the  site  of  an  old  Romanesque  building. 

A  Walk  bounuthe  Outbids  of  the  City  affords,  in  clear  weather, 
fine  views  of  the  distant  mountains  (see  p.  464).  Of  the  ancient 
walls,  erected  in  1147,  nothing  remains  but  a  few  fragments  on  the 
S.  side.  Outside  the  site  of  the  old  Puerta  de  Toro  (PI.  D,  2),  a 
little  to  the  N.E.  of  San  Mateo,  is  the  pleasant  new  Alamedilla  Park, 

—  To  the  S.E.  of  this  point,  beyond  the  Puerta  de  Santo  Tomas 


(p.  470),  is  the  Monasterio  de  Bemardoi  del  Jesda  (PI.  D,  6),  founded 
in  1642;  to  the  S.  of  this  lies  the  Caaa  de  DemenXee  (PI.  D,  61 
insane  asylum.  —  A  field-path  runs  hence  to  the  S.  to  (3  min.J  the 


suppressed  Corkverhio  de  la  Vega  (beyond  PI.  D,  6),  founded  in  1166 
and  now  private  property.  Here  are  the  ruins  of  the  Gothic  church 
and  some  remains  of  the  original  cloisters,  including  five  round  arches 
on  coupled  columns  and  six  other  arches  supported  by  short  and 
massive  clustered  columns  (fee  50  c).  —  To  the  S.W.  of  the  city, 
about  3  min.  walk  from  the  cathedral,  the  Tormes  is  crossed  by  a 
well-preserved  *Boman  Bridge  (PI.  A,  6).  The  fifteen  arches  next 
the  city  belong  to  the  original  structure ;  the  other  twelve  date  from 
the  reign  of  Philip  IV.  (1677).  The  hill  on  the  left  bank  commands 
a  fine  view  of  the  great  churches  of  Salamanca. 

Fsou  Salamanca  TO  AviLA,  6011.,  railway  under  construction,  opened 
as  far  as  (SdVzM.,  in  IV4  hr.)  PeSaraada  de  Bracamonte,  an  old  town  with 
4aC0  inhabitants.    Diligence  thence  to  (00  M.)  Avila,  see  p.  45. 


472  BouU  60.  CIUDAD  RODBIGO. 

Fbom  Sax^maxca  to  P&A8BMCIA,  lOQM.,  railway  (two  trains  dail^)   in 
5Vs-9  hrs.  (fares  22  p.  60  c,  16  p.,  11  p.  25  c).  —  The  line  runs  towards  the 
8.,  crossing  the  Torme*  by  a  bridge  684  ft.  in  length.  —  6  H.  Lot  ArapiU* 
was  the  scene  of  the  batUe  of  Salamanca  (Jnly  22nd,  1812),  in  which  the 
British  and  Spanish  forces  under  Wellington  defeated  tbe  French  under 
Harmont.    This  important  battle,  in  which  over  40,(XX)  men  were  engaged 
on    each  side ,  was  won  in    sbout  '/i  hr.    It   compelled   the    French    to 
evacoate  Salamanca,  and  was  the  beginning  of  the  end  of  the  French  cause 
in  Spain.  -^  The  train  sliirts  the  IT.E.  spurs  Of  the  PAa  de  l^aneia  and 
at  (15'/2  M.)  AlbQ  de  Tornus  re-enters  the  valley  of  the  Tonnes.  —  Several 
unimportant  stations.  —  641/2  M.  Bijar  (3166  ft.),  an  industrial  town  of 
10,600  inhab.,  on  the  small   river  Cverpo  de  Hombre,  contains  some  large 
cloth-factories  and  the  ancestral  chateau  of  the  Dukes  of  Bejar.    It  still 
retains  its  ancient  walls,  now  crumbling  in  decay.  —  The  train  crosses  the 
W.  outliers  of  the  Sierra  de  Bijar  at  (691/2  M.)  Puerto  de  Bijar  and  then 
descends  to  the  S.W.  to  (63  H.)  Bollos  (de  Bijar),  a  frequented  watering 
place  on  the  Jmbrosy  with  alkaline  sulphur-springs  (110°  Fahr.).     It   is 
the  first  station  in  the  province  of  Plaeenda,  in  Estremadura.  —  We  now 
descend   along  the  Ambroz,   passing   several   small  stations.   —   102  M. 
PUumeia-JBmpalme,  see  p.  A49. 

FsoM  Salaiunca  to  AsTonuA,  116  H.,  railway  (two  trains  daily)  in 
8V2  hrs.  (fares  26  p.  56,  17  p.  6,  12  p.  80  c).  The  chief  intermediate  station 
is  (41  H.)  Zamora  (Hotel  Vieeaina;  Potada  de  la  Morera;  Sail.  Bettaurant), 
an  interesting  old  town  (15,000  inhab.)  situated  on  a  rocky  hill  rising 
above  the  Douro^  frequently  mentioned  in  the  chronicles  of  mediaeval  war- 
fare as  a  frontier-fortress  against  the  Moors.  The  small  Romanesque  Cathe- 
draly  completed  about  1174,  with  a  square  tower,  and  a  handsome  domed 
cimborio  over  the  crossing,  is  handsomely  fitted  up  in  the  interior  (pictures 
by  Oallegos  -,  interesting  tombs).  The  churches  of  San  Pedro  if  Jlde/onto^ 
La  Magdalena,  and  Sta,  Maria  de  Horta  should  also  be  noticed.  The  bridge 
across  the  Douro  affords  a  picturesque  view.  Don  Quixote  mentions  Za- 
mora as  famous  for  its  bagpipes.  —  116  M .  Agtorga^  see  p.  479. 


The  Railway  fbom  Salamanca  to  Yillak  Fokmoso  crosses  the 
Tormet  by  an  iron  bridge,  1600  ft.  long,  and  then  turn?  towards  the 
W.  62  M.  Tejarts  is  known  for  its  'Romeria  de  la  Virgen  de  la 
Salud',  celebrated  on  Trinity  Sunday.  —  The  line  then  follows  the 
old  Ikighroad  from  Salamanca  to  Cindad  Rodrigo,  through  an  undu- 
lating but  unattractive  district,  skirting  the  N.  foot-hills  of  the 
PenadeFrancia,  66*72 M.  Doninos;  67 M.  Quegigal;  liyzU.'Bdveda. 
We  now  cross  the  YeUes  (p.  587)  and  reach  — 

83  M.  Fnente  San  Est^ban  (Rail,  Restaurant^  mediocre,  D. 
3V4pO»  an  insignificant  village,  but  Important  as  the  junction  of 
the  railway  to  Barca  d'Alva  and  Oporto  (R.  66). 

Our  line  runs  towards  the  S.W.,  traversing  forests  of  evergreen 
oak.  86  M.  Martin  del  Rio;  93  M.  Sancti  Espititus.  —  The  train 
now  ascends  in  curves  through  the  Montanas  de  Carazo^  the  N.W. 
spurs  of  the  Pefia  de  Francia,  and  then  descends  into  the  valley  of  the 
Agueda  (p.  587).    It  crosses  the  river. 

106  M.  Ciudad  Bodrigo,  a  small  town  with  2600 inhab.,  named 
after  Count  Rodrigo  Gonzalez  Gir6n,  the  'Repoblador'.  It  is  one  of 
Spain's  fortresses  on  the  frontier  of  Portugal  and  played  an  impor- 
tant part  in  the  peninsular  war.  Marshal  Ney  besieged  and  took  it 
in  1810,  but  it  was  retaken  by  WeUington  on  Jan.  19th,  1812,  after 
'ege  of  12  days.    For  this  exploit  Wellington  was  created  Duke 


SAHAGUN.  6i.  BouU.  473 

of  Ciudad  Rodrigo,  Marquis  of  Torres  Vedras  (Portugal),  and  Earl 
of  Wellington.  The  Cathedralj  begun  towards  the  end  of  the  12th 
cent,  and  marred  hy  additions  in  the  16th,  is  of  considerable  interest. 
From  Ciudad  Rodrigo  vi&  Herguijuela  to  the  Batveca*  and  Jtirde*  and 
.to  Fkueneia,  see  p.  449. 

We  now  traverse  a  pleasant  hilly  district.  Ill  M.  Carpio;  118  M. 
Espeja.  At  (125  M.)  Fuentes  de  Onoro  (2590  ft.),  the  last  Spanish 
station,  an  indecisive  engagement  between  the  French  under  Mass^na 
and  the  English  under  Wellington  took  place  in  May,  1811. 

I26V2M.  Yillar  Formoso  (2560  ft. ;  Rail,  Restaurant),  the  Portu- 
guese frontier-station,  on  the  Torroes,  an  affluent  of  the  Agueda. 
Carriages  are  changed  here,  and  passenger's  luggage  is  examined  by 
the  cuBtom-house  officers. 

Continuation  of  the  railway  to  Pampilhosa,  and  thence  to  Lisbon^  see 
RR.  56,  54. 

51.  From  Falencia  to  Leon  and  Corunna. 

340  M.  Railway  iFerroearrilet  del  Norte;  one  iren  corrio  daily)  in  18  hra. 
(fares  50  p.  35,  37  p.  75,  22  p.  65  c.);  in  summer  a  tren  corrio  (ist  and 
2nd  class  only)  runs  in  1672  hrs.  and  a  tren  mixto  in  2OV2  hrs.  —  Trains 
start  from  Palencia  at  the  Etiadon  del  Norte.  —  Railway-restaurants  at 
Leon,  Pon/errada^  and  Monforte.  —  Passengers  for  Oviedo  and  Gijdn  change 
carriages  in  Leon. 

Palencia,  see  p.  39.  —  The  railway  runs  to  the  N.W.  across 
the  Tierra  de  Campos.  On  the  bare  hills  to  the  right  are  the  ruins 
of  the  fortresses  of  Castillo  and  Castillon  (12th  cent.).  31/2  ^^ 
Grijota;  7  M.  Villaumhrales ;  9  M.  Becerril. 

13  M.  Paredes  de  Nava,  the  birthplace  of  Alonso  Berruguete 
(p.  liv);  171/2  M.  Villalumbroso;  22  M.  Cisneros,  once  the  seat  of  the 
distinguished  family  of  that  name;  29  M.  Villada;  35  M.  Orajal  de 
Campos,  with  a  picturesque  ruined  castle  of  the  15th  century. 

38  M.  Sahagiin,  a  town  of  2700  inhab.,  was  the  Camala  of  the 
Romans  and  is  often  mentioned  in  the  chronicles  of  the  middle 
ages.  The  ruined  Benedictine  Abbey  of  Sahagun,  visible  from  the 
railway,  was  erected  over  the  graves  of  SS.  Facundus  and  Primitivus 
and  exercised  the  greatest  influence  on  the  history  of  the  land  dur- 
ing the  10-16th  centuries.  In  the  following  period,  however,  the 
monastery  suffered  so  much  from  internal  quarrels,  earthquakes, 
and  conflagrations,  that  nothing  remained  at  the  end  of  the  18th  cent, 
but  a  pile  of  ruins.  The  Capilla  de  San  Mancio  (12th  cent.)  con- 
tains the  fine  tomb  of  Alfonso  VI.  The  Romanesque  churches  ot  San 
Tirso,  San  Lorenzo,  and  San  Pedro  de  las  Duenas  are  interesting. 

Farther  on  the  train  crosses  viaducts  and  the  Cea.  To  the  right 
are  the  picturesquely  situated  convent  of  Trianos  and  the  distant 
mountains  of  Palencia  and  Leon.  42^/2  M.  Calzada ;  50  M.  El 
BurgO'Raneros;  60  M.  Santas  Martas.  We  enter  the  delta  of  the 
Porma,  Bemesga,  and  Esla,  crossing  the  last-named  river  by  a 
bridge  330  yds.  long.  —  65  M.  Palanquinos,  a  favourite  summ' 
resort  of  the  Leonese;  71  M.  Tomeros. 


474   RouU51.  LEON.  Cathedral. 

76 V2  M.  Leon.   The  rail,  station  (restaurant)  lies  3/^  M.  to  the 
W.  of  ^e  town ;  hotel-omnibuses  meet  the  trains. 


Leon.  —  Hotels.  IIotkl  Ibbria,  Calle  OrdoSo  Segando  1;  HSt.  de 
Paris,  Calle  San  Harcelo  8,  an  indifferent  Spanish -hoasei  pens,  from  6  fr. 
—  Oafi*.  8uizo,  Calle  Ordono  Segando  1  \  RuedOy  Calle  San  Marcelo  8.  — 
Baths,  Calle  Ordono  Segundo  19. 

Post  Offleo,  Calle  Cuatro  Cantones  9.  —  Telegraph  Office,  Calle  San 
Harcelo  8. 

Leon  (26*25  ft.),  the  capital  of  the  proYince  of  the  same  name  and 
the  seat  of  a  bishop,  is  a  city  of  13,000  inhab.)  situated  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Torio  and  the  Bemesga,  in  a  plain  abounding  in  trees 
and  meadows.  The  name  is  derived  from  the  fact  that  the  Sev- 
enth Roman  Legion  (Oemina  Pia  Felix)  occupied  a  fortified  camp 
here.  In  the  6th  cent,  the  place  was  stormed,  after  a  valiant  resist- 
ance, by  Lecvigild  and  his  Goths,  and  it  remained  in  their  possession 
until  983,  when  it  was  wholly  destroyed  by  the  Arabs.  Its  period 
of  glory  began  with  Alfonso  V. ,  who  invested  it  with  many  priv- 
ileges ('buenos  fueros'),  ind  was  at  Its  height  in  the  11 -13th  cen- 
turies. After  the  union  of  the  kingdoms  of  Castile  and  Leon  the  town 
sank  into  obscurity,  from  which  it  momentarily  emerged  in  1521, 
as  one  of  the  chief  seats  of  the  Comuneros  (p.  63).  Visitors  who 
now  wander  through  its  deserted,  narrow,  and  irregular  streets  will 
find  the  cathedral,  the  royal  tombs,  and  the  city-walls  the  only  re- 
minders that  Leon  was  once  the  proud  capital  of  a  kingdom  that 
stretched  from  the  Atlantic  Ocean  to  the  Rhone.  —  The  climate  is 
very  raw,  and  in  winter  the  mercury  often  sinks  to  10-15®  Fahr. 
below  freezing-point  or  even  lower. 

The  life  and  business  of  the  town  is  focussed  in  the  Plaza 
Mat6b,  or  Plaza  de  la  Conititucion  ^  which  Is  surrounded  with 
arcades.  This  square  was  formerly  used  for  fetes  and  processions, 
and  is  now  the  scene  of  several  markets,  which  afford  (especially 
on  Sat.)  a  good  opportunity  to  study  the  ways  and  costume  of  the 
neighbouring  peasantry.  On  the  W.  side  stands  the  ConsittoriOy  or 
court-house,  a  handsome  building  flanked  with  towers  (1677).  — 
The  Calle  Nueva  leads  hence  to  the  N.  to  the  Plazubla  de  la 
Catedral,  with  the  seminary,  bishop's  palace,  and  cathedral. 

The  "'Cathedral  (Santa  Maria  de  Regla),  one  of  the  grandest 
examples  of  the  Gothic  style  on  Spanish  soil,  is  smaller  than  the 
cathedrals  of  Toledo,  Burgos,  and  Seville,  but  excels  them  In  del- 
icacy of  execution.  It  is  closely  allied  with  the  cathedrals  of 
N.  France,  such  as  those  of  Rheims  and  Amiens  (comp.  p.  xliii). 
It  occupies  the  site  of  the  old  Roman  baths  and  of  a  palace  of  Or- 
dofio  II.  (10th  cent.),  which  was  early  transformed  into  a  church. 
The  present  building,  of  which  the  foundation-stone  was  laid  by 
Bishop  Manrique  de  Lara  in  1199,  was  actually  begun  in  the  early- 
Qothic  style  about  1250  and  was  not  finished  till  the  close  of  the 
llowing  century.    The  chief  master-builders  seem  to  have  been 


Cathedral.  LEON.  5L  Route.   475 

Pedro  Cebrianf  Enrique,  OuUlen  de  Rohan,  and  Juan  de  Badajoz. 
The  building  was  repeatedly  restored,  but  the  discrepancies  of  style, 
Tisihle  mainly  on  the  exterior,  produce  a  by  no  means  unpleasant 
effect.  The  ground-plan  is  in  the  form  of  a  Latin  cross,  with  nave 
and  aisles,  transept,  a  choir  with  double  aisles,  an  ambulatory, 
and  radiating  chapels.  The  total  length  is  298  ft.,  the  breadth 
131  ft.,  the  height  of  the  nave  98  ft.  The  building  material  is  yel- 
lowish limestone.  The  restoration,  begun  in  1860  and  still  in  pro- 
gress, has  been  partly  carried  on  under  the  superintendence  of  Rios 
y  Serrano,  the  architect  and  art-historian. 

Hr.  Street,  after  empbasizing  the  fact  that  this  cathedral  must  be 
regarded  as  a  French,  rather  than  as  a  Spanish  church,  goes  on  to  say : 
*it  is,  indeed,  in  almost  every  respect  worthy  to  be  ranked  among  the 
noblest  churches  of  Europe.  Its  detail  is  rich  and  beautiful  throughout, 
its  plan  very  excellent,  the  sculpture  with  which  it  is  adorned  quite 
equal  in  quantity  and  character  to  that  of  any  church  of  the  age,  and  the 
stained  glass  with  which  its  windows  are  everywhere  Ailed,  perhaps  some 
of  the  most  brilliant  in  Europe". 

The  Main  or  W,  Facade  is  very  imposing,  with  its  three  ornate 
doorways,  its  arcade  of  colonnettes,  its  large  rose-window  (25  ft.  in 
diameter],  and  its  turret- flanked  gable.  The  effect  has  been  much 
enhanced  by  the  removal  of  the  additions  of  the  Renaissance.  In 
the  niche  to  the  left  of  the  main  portal  is  a  small  column  with  the 
escutcheon  of  Leon  and  Castile  and  the  legend  4ocu8  appellationis^ 
marking  the  site  on  which  justice  was  anciently  administered.  On 
the  pillar  between  the  two  openings  of  the  main  portal  (PI.  16)  is 
a  statue  of  Nuestra  Sefiora  la  Blanca.  The  reliefs  in  the  spaces 
over  the  doors  represent  the  reward  of  the  just  and  the  punishment 
of  the  wicked.  Above  is  Christ  as  the  judge  of  all.  Over  the  N.  (left) 
portal  are  represented  the  Visitation,  the  Nativity,  the  Adoration  of 
the  Magi,  the  Flight  into  Egypt,  and  the  Massacre  of  the  Innocents. 
Above  the  S.  (right)  portal  (PI.  17)  are  the  Death  and  Coronation  of 
the  Virgin.  The  doors  of  the  N.  portal  (PI.  16)  are  carved  with 
scenes  from  the  Passion.  The  gable  above  the  wheel-window  is  oc- 
cupied by  a  relief  of  the  Annunciation  and  a  figure  of  the  Saviour. 
—  The  Towers  flanking  the  facade  are  unequal  in  height  and  very 
unlike  in  appearance.  The  older  one  to  the  N.  (213  ft.  high),  with 
round  windows,  looks  somewhat  heavy.  The  late-Gothic  Torre  del 
Reloj  to  the  S.  (224  ft.  high)  dates  from  the  15th  cent,  and  rises  in 
five  stages,  with  buttresses  and  finials  at  the  angles  and  an  elegant 
open-work  spire.  Above  and  below  the  cornice  between  the  first 
and  second  story  is  the  inscription :  'Maria- Jesus  XS-Deus  homo'; 
higher  up,  'Ave  Maria- Gratia  plena-dominus  tecum'.  The  ascent  of 
this  tower  is  fatiguing  and  not  worth  while. 

The  8,  Facade  of  the  church  is  also  very  beautiful,  with  its  airy 
flying  buttresses,  its  slender  flnials,  its  magnificent  windows,  and 
the  tasteful  balustrade  on  the  top.  The  facade  of  the  S.  transept, 
like  the  W.  facade,  has  been  re-erected  and  purged  of  its  Renais- 
sance disfigurements;  it  also  has  three  richly  decorated  portalp 


476   RouU5L  LEON.  CathtdnU. 

(15th  cent.),  galleries  of  small  columns,  a  row  of  windows,  and  tT^o 
rose- windows.   Above  is  a  statue  of  St.  FroiUn. 

The  richly  articulated  Choir  is  best  surveyed  from  the  Plazuela 
de  Paerta  Obispo. 

The  iKTERioB,  which  is  throughout  in  the  style  of  the  14th  cent., 
makes  an  effect  of  extraordinary  grace  and  lightness,  with  its  finely 
articulated  circular  piers,  its  elegant  triforinm  gallery,  and  its  230 
traceried  windows,  some  of  which  are  40  ft.  high.    The  height  to 
which  it  was  carried  seemed  so  reckless  and  hazardous  in  proper- 
tion  to  the  solidity  of  the  supports,  that  some  of  the  openings  in 
the  aisles  were  built  up,  perhaps  with  exaggerated  caution,    soon 
after  the  completion  of  the  building.   This  masonry,  however,   has 
now  been  removed  —  much  to  the  advantage  of  the  general  effect. 
The  stained  glass  of  the  windows,  dating  from  the  13-16th  cent., 
has  been  nearly  all  taken  out  during  the  restoration.   At  present  the 
only  old  windows  in  place  are  those  of  the  capilla  mayor,  the  Capilla 
de  Santiago  (p.  477),  and  the  large  rose-windows  in  the  W.  front 
and  N.  transept,  showing  the  Virgin  and  Saviour  encircled  by  kings 
and  angels  making  music. 

The  Coro,  in  the  middle  of  the  nave,  dates  from  the  15- 16th 
cent.,  and  contains  the  organs,  the  tribunes  for  the  choristers,  and 
two  rows  of  stalls  (Silleria).  The  latter,  carved  in  walnut,  with  finely 
ornamented  patterns  and  figures  on  the  backs,  and  a  most  elaborate 
open-work  frieze,  are  a  masterpiece  by  Fadriqtte,  John  of  Malines, 
and  the  Dutchman  Copin.  The  two  canopied  stalls  in  the  upper 
row  are  destined  for  the  bishop  and  for  the  king,  as  hereditary  canon 
of  the  cathedral.  The  reliefs  near  the  entrance,  in  a  more  mature 
Kenaissance  style,  are  ascribed  to  Bodrigo  Aleman,  They  represent 
the  genealogy  of  Christ,  the  Visitation,  St  George  and  the  Dragon, 
the  Fall  of  the  "Wicked  Angels,  the  Liberation  of  souls  from  Purg- 
atory, and  Samson  overcoming  the  lion.  The  Traicoro  is  of  alabaster 
and  is  executed  in  the  plateresque  style  with  rich  gilding  and  paint- 
ing; it  has,  however,  been  spoiled  by  an  ugly  door  and  other  later 
additions.  The  reliefs  represent  scenes  from  the  New  Testament, 
the  figures  are  Church  Fathers  and  Apostles. 

The  Capilla  Mayor  is  undergoing  restoration  and  cannot  be 
seen  to  advantage.  The  screens  enclosing  it  date  from  the  15- 
16th  centuries.  —  In  the  Ambulatory  are  two  marble  altars  in  the 
Renaissance  style,  with  the  cinerary  urns  of  88.  Alvito  and  Ptlayo, 
Bishops  of  Leon.  At  the  back  of  the  capilla  mayor  is  the  elaborate 
Monument  of  Ordono  II.  (d.  923),  executed  in  the  loth  cent,  and 
adorned  with  the  so-called  ^estofado^  painting.  In  the  middle  lies 
the  effigy  of  the  king,  with  a  dog  at  his  feet  To  the  left  and  right 
of  the  niche  are  a  monk  and  a  herald,  directing  attention  to  the  in- 
scription. A  warrior  is  guarding  the  Leonese  coat-of-arms,  before 
which  flee  a  number  of  Moors.  The  rest  of  the  monument  is  also 
elaborately  adorned  with  reliefs,  shields,  statuettes,  and  sculptured 


_-^J 


Cathedral,  LEON.  5/.  Route.    477 

ornament.  The  difference  of  style  between  the  upper  and  lower 
parts  seems  to  indicate-  a  later  modification  of  the  original  plan.  — - 
Near  Ordofio's  tomb  are  old  frescoes  of  the  Entombment  and  the 
Mocking  of  Christ,  lately  unskilfully  restored.  —  To  the  left  of  the 
tomb  of  St.  Pelayo  is  the  Portada  del  Cardo^  a  door  of  the  16th 
cent. ,  elaborately  adorned  with  foliage  and  fruit,  and  Intended  for 
the  admission  of  the  acolytes  to  the  high-altar.  —  The  Sacristy  and 
the  Oratorium  contain  copies,  mostly  worthless,  of  Italian  paintings. 

The  Capilla  del  Carmen  (PI.  8)  was  constructed  by  Bishop 
Pedro  de  Vaca  in  the  15th  cent.;  to  the  right  of  its  high-altar  is  the 
tomb  of  Bishop  Rodrigo  (d.  1532),  with  an  interesting  relief  of  a 
funeral  procession.  —  In  the  Capilla  del  Salvador  (PI.  5),  to  the 
left,  is  the  monument  of  Countess  Sancha  of  Leon  by  Juan  Lopez 
(14th  cent.);  the  reliefs  are  said  to  refer  to  the  murder  of  the 
countess  by  her  covetous  nephew,  who  was  forthwith  torn  asunder 
by  horses.  —  The  Capilla  de  la  Concepcion  (PI.  4),  dating  from 
1230,  contains  (left)  the  tomb  of  Bishop  Manrique  (p.  474).  —  In 
the  Capilla  de  la  Asuncion  (PI.  3)  is  the  monument  of  Bishop 
Arnaldo  (d.  1235),  one  of  the  bitterest  persecutors  of  the  Albigenses. 
—  The  Capilla  de  Nuestra  Senora  del  Dado  (PI.  1)  was  founded  by 
Bishop  Manrique.  Over  the  altar  is  the  painted  figure  of  *Oiir 
Lady  of  the  Die'  (dado),  a  fine  and  characteristic  work  of  the  Gothic 
period.  Its  name  is  explained  by  the  story  that  a  gambler,  having 
unsuccessfully  called  on  the  aid  of  the  Virgin ,  threw  one  of  his 
dice  at  the  figure,  which  forthwith  began  to  bleed.  —  The  stained 
glass  windows  of  the  Capilla  de  Santiago^  which  was  erected  in 
the  middle  of  the  16th  cent,  by  Juan  de  Badajoz  in  a  late-Gothic 
plateresque  style,  are  among  the  best-preserved  in  the  cathedral. 
Fine,  too,  are  the  richly  carved  and  whimsical  friezes  and  the  gro- 
tesque supports  of  the  pillars  (Queen  of  Sheba,  Samson  with  the 
lion,  Monkreading,  satirically  inscribed  4egerenonintelllgere\  etc.): 
To  the  right  and  left  of  the  altar,  and  on  the  altar  itself,  are  four  sil- 
ver caskets,  containing  the  remains  of  SS.  Alvito,  Pelayo,  Froilan, 
and  Antolin,  and  a  silver  custodia  (16th  cent.),  with  portraits  of 
St.  Froilan  and  various  Apostles  and  Church  Fathers. 

The  *Cloistees,  which  are  98  ft.  square,  show,  in  consequence 
of  later  restorations,  a  curious  mixture  of  Gothic  and  Henaissance 
forms  and  rank  among  the  most  beautiful  in  Spain.  The  mural 
paintings,  executed  by  Maestre  Nicolas  and  Lorcnxo  in  1464-70 
(comp.  p.  Ixvi),  are  now  very  dilapidated.  Those  in  best  preserva- 
tion are  Christ  with  the  Scribes  and  Pharisees  (N.W.),  Scourging 
of  Christ  (N.W.),  and  the  Last  Supper  (N.).  -—  On  the  N.  side  of 
the  cloisters  is  the  Chapel  qf  Count  Rebolledo  (PI.  13),  with  the 
monument  of  this  nobleman  (d.  1636),  who  was  a  Spanish  general 
and  ambassador  at  the  court  of  Denmark.  The  adjoining  Staircase^ 
leading  to  the  chapter-house,  erected  by  Bishop  Pedro  Manuel^  is  one 
of  the  most  important  creations  of  the  plateresque  style. 


478  Route  61.  LEON.  San  IMoro. 

The  most  interesting  MS.  in  the  Chapter  Library  is  the  palimpsest  of 
the  Lex  Bomana  Visigothorom,  discovered  by  Dr.  B.  Beer  in  1888  (No.  16). 
Others  of  importance  are  Kos.  8,  9,  16,  26^  27,  and  36. 

On  leaving  the  cathedral,  we  proceed  to  the  W.,  passing  the 
Neptune  Fountain  and  following  the  Galles  de  la  Catedrai  and  San 
Marcelo,  to  the  Pla-Zttsla  db  San  Maboblo.  This  square  is  ad- 
joined by  the  Theatre^  the  Hoipitalj  the  Town  Hall,  and  other 
interesting  buildings.  The  Ayuntamiento  (town-hall),  ^ith  Doric- 
Ionic  facades  to  the  N.  and  £.,  was  built  by  Juan  Ribera  in  1585. 
Adjacent  is  the  church  of  San  Marcelo y  dating  from  1096  but  dis- 
figured by  later  restorations.  Opposite  (N.  side  of  the  plaza)  is  the 
Ca$a  de  las  Ouzmanetj  resembling  an  Italian  palace  and  built  in 
1560  by  Bishop  Juan  Quifiones  y  Guzman,  an  ancestor  of  the 
ex-Empress  Eugenie.  It  is  now  the  seat  of  the  provincial  diet.  • — 
The  Calle  del  Cid,  just  beyond  this  building,  leads  to  the  — 

*Colegiata  de  San  Isidoro,  an  early-Romanesque  edifice,  re- 
sembling in  many  respects  the  cathedral  of  Santiago.  It  was  founded 
by  Ferdinand  I.  of  Castile  in  1005,  for  the  reception  of  the  remains 
of  St.  Isidore  and  other  martyrs,  as  well  as  for  a  royal  mausoleum. 
It  was  altered  or  rebuilt  by  Master  Pedfo  Vitamhen  and  not  con- 
secrated until  1149,  whUe  even  then  its  decorations  were  probably 
still  incomplete.  The  main  facade,  which  is  strengthened  by  mas- 
sive buttresses,  is  adorned  with  quaint  old  reliefs  (p.  xlv).  Above 
the  right  portal  (now  walled  up)  are  the  Descent  from  the  Cross 
and  Deposition  in  the  Tomb,  with  SS.  Paul  (r.)  and  Peter  (1.).  In 
the  tympanum  of  the  left  portal  is  the  Sacrifice  of  Abraham,  under 
a  zodiacal  frieze.  The  upper  stage,  with  the  arms  of  Castile  and  an 
equestrian  statue  of  St.  Isidore,  dates  from  the  16th  century. 

Intbbiob.  The  nave,  26ft.  in  width,  is  roofed  with  barrel 
vaulting,  the  aisles  with  quadripartite  vaulting.  To  the  left  of  the 
entrance  is  the  simple  stone  sarcophagus  of  the  architect  Yitamben, 
near  which  is  a  Romanesque  font.  The  cusped  and  stilted  arches 
of  the  spacious  transept,  which  is  also  roofed  with  a  barrel-vault, 
betoken  Moorish  Influence.  The  capilla  mayor,  which  is  enclosed 
by  a  handsome  reja  and  roofed  with  star-vaulting,  was  built  in  the 
late-Gothic  style  in  1513  to  take  the  place  of  two  earlier  apsidal 
chapels.  It  is  one  of  the  few  in  Spain  in  which  the  Host  is  on  con- 
stant exhibition  (*de  maniflesto').  On  the  high-altar  is  a  silver 
shrine  with  the  bones  of  St.  Isidore.  To  the  right  and  left  are  small 
semicircular  apses,  forming  the  E.  terminations  of  the  aisles.  — 
The  left  aisle  is  adjoined  by  the  Cloisters,  with  the  old  refectory. 
—  At  the  W.  end  of  the  nave  is  the  Royal  Pantheon,  the  tombs 
in  which  were  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1808.  The  Capilla  de 
Santa  Catalina,  or  larger  of  the  two  chambers  of  which  the  Pantheon 
consists,  is  a  rectangular  structure  of  the  16th  cent.,  with  early- 
Romanesque  paintings.  It  is  roofed  with  six  quadripartite  vaults, 
borne  by  two  columns.  Those  of  the  stone  coffins  that  are  still  ex- 
tant are  preserved  here  and  in  the  adjoining  room. 


San  Marcos.  LEON.  51.  Route.  479 

The  CoNVBNT  Staibcase,  a  richly  decorated  work  of  the  Renaissance, 
should  not  he  overlooked^  —  The  Library,  formerly  in  possession  of  a 
valuahle  collection  of  MSS.,  has  been  able  to  recover  but  few  of  its  trea- 
sures since  the  French  occupation.  The  best  now  here  is  a  Bible  of  960, 
adorned  with  exquisite  miniatures  by  the  Presbyter  Sancho.  The  library 
also  contains  a  suit  of  armour  that  was  worn  by  Alfonso  VII.  —  In  the 
Muniment  Room  is  an  agate  chalice  of  the  11th  cent.,  richly  adorned  with 
precious  stones. 

The  Callb  de  Rbnueva  leads  from  San  Isidoro  towards  the  N.W, 
to  the  Convent  of  San  Marcos,  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Bemesga.  The  original  building  on  this  site  was  a  hospital  for 
the  pilgrims  to  Compostela.  The  new  building,  planned  for  by 
Ferdinand  the  Catholic,  but  not  begun  till  the  reign  of  Charles  V., 
was  substantially  the  work  of  OuilUrmoDoncel.^  Orozco,  and  Juan 
de  Badajoz.  The  main  facade,  turned  towards  the  S.,  and  now  in  a 
sad  state  of  dilapidation,  ranks  among  the  finest  examples  of  the 
plateresque  style,  not  only  in  the  monumental  nobility  of  its  plan, 
but  also  In  the  wealth  and  charming  execution  of  its  decoration. 
The  graceful  festoons  and  delicate  friezes  are  obviously  suggested 
by  Raphael's  logge ;  the  medallions  on  the  plinth  and  the  superb 
main  portal  are  also  noteworthy.  The  interior  of  the  convent-church, 
which  has  never  been  finished,  also  produces  a  most  agreeable  im- 
pression, with  its  aisleless  nave,  spacious  transept,  and  lofty  vault- 
ing. The  beautiful  choir  -  stalls ,  dating  from  1641,  were  freely 
restored  in  1721.  The  Sala  Capitular  (with  a  richly  carved  ceiling 
of  the  16th  cent),  the  sacristy,  and  the  cloisters  are  hardly  less 
interesting.  The  lower  stage  of  the  last  now  contains  the  Museo 
Provincial.  —  At  the  back  of  the  choir  is  the  cell  in  which  the  poet 
Francisco  Quevedo  was  confined  for  3^2  years  by  Philip  IV.  The 
walls,  on  which  the  captive  pencilled  the  bitterest  satires  against 
his  age  and  his  contemporaries,  have  been  covered  with  whitewash. 

On  the  W.,  N.,  and  E.  the  town  is  girdled  by  imposing  Walls 
(Murallajy  strengthened  with  towers  and  dating  in  their  lower  part 
from  the  Roman  period.  They  can  be  most  conveniently  visited  at 
the  section  which  runs  to  the  N.  from  the  E.  side  of  the  cathedral, 
along  the  Calle  de  los  Cubes,  to  the  Puerta  del  Castillo, 

Those  who  have  time  may  visit  the  church  of  Santa  Maria  del 
Mercndoj  which  lies  to  the  N.W.,  in  the  Calle  de  Herreros.  In  the 
same  quarter  are  the  promenades  of  La  Ronda  or  Papalaguinda 
and  CalvariOj  stretching  along  the  Bernesga  (band  on  Sun.  evenings). 

Fboh  Lbon  to  Corunna.  —  82 ^2^'  Quintana ;  89 M.  Villadangos. 
We  cross  the  Orbigo  by  a  bridge  115  yds.  long.  —  98  M.  Veguellina. 
To  the  right  Is  the  twenty-arched  bridge  where  Suero  de  Quinones 
and  his  nine  companions-in-arms  performed  the  so-called  *Paso 
Honroso',  challenging  during  a  period  of  ten  days  (July,  1434)  all 
the  knights  on  their  way  to  the  great  jubilee  at  Santiago. 

109  M.  A8torga(2815  ft.j  Fonda  de  Fausiino  Fernandez,  Fonda 
de  Pachas,  both  very  Indifferent,  pens.  5-6  fr.j  carriages  at  the 


480   Route  5/.  ASTORGA,  From  Leon 

station),  the  see  of  a  bighop,  witii  5000  iiihab.,  is  picturesquely 
situated  on  a  spur  of  the  Manzanal  chain  and  is  surrounded  by 
strong  walls  and  towers,  still  in  part  well  preserved.  The  Roman 
A8turica  Augusta,  described  by  Pliny  as  an  'urbs  magniflca*,  lay  at 
the  junction  of  four  military  roads.  It  was  destroyed  both  by  the 
Goths  and  the  Arabs,  but  enjoyed  another  short  spell  of  power  and 
prosperity  under  Ordofio  I.  (9th  cent.).  Its  heroic  resistance  to  the 
French  in  IK  10  forms  a  worthy  parallel  to  the  defences  of  Saragossa 
and  Gerona.  —  Astorga  Is  the  junction  of  the  railway  to  Flasencia 
via  Zamora  and  Salamanca  (p.  472). 

The  Cathedral  dates  from  the  15-l6th  centuries.  The  main 
facade,  in  the  Renaissance  style,  has  three  portals  adorned  with 
plateresque  columns  and  pilasters,  reliefs  from  the  life  of  Christ, 
and  a  graceful  parapet.  The  rose- window  is  in  the  baroque  style. 
The  towers,  one  of  which  is  unfinished,  date  from  the  18th  cent. ; 
the  portal  in  the  S.  facade  is  of  the  17th  century.  The  interior 
is  very  effective.  The  beautiful  groining* ribs  and  the  slender 
and  finely  outlined  pillars  demand  attention.  The  retablo  mayor  was 
executed  by  Gaspar  Beeerra  in  1569  (comp.  p.  Ivili) ;  the  screens  are 
the  work  of  Lazaro  Awam  (1622),  and  the  choir-stalls  and  pulpit 
are  by  the  Masters  Tomas  and  Roberto  (1551).  The  windows  are 
tilled  with  good  stained  glass.  In  the  sacristy  (18th  cent.)  are  shown 
a  Romanesque  reliquary  and  an  admirably  executed  Gothic  chalice. 
—  The  cloisters  were  rebuilt  by  Oaspar  Lopez  in  1780. 

The  Ayuntamiento  (town-hall),  in  the  Plaza  Mayor  (P.  de  la 
Oonstitucion),  is  an  edifice  of  the  early  17th  cent,  with  a  tasteful 
Renaissance  facade  flanked  by  towers.  —  The  Priests'  Seminary^  to 
the  S.W.,  can  accommodate  750  pupils.  —  Fine  views  of  the  Man- 
zanal chain  and  of  the  suburbs  of  Santa  Coloma  and  San  Andris  are 
obtained  from  the  road  laid  out  on  th^e  ramparts  and  from  El  Jardin^ 
a  promenade  stretching  towards  the  S.W.  (band  on  Sun.  evenings). 

The  hills  round  Astorga  are  the  home  of  the  tribe  of  Maragatot,  a 
remnant  of  the  original  Celtiberian  inhabitants  of  Spain,  who  hold 
themselves  strictly  aloof  from  their  neighbours  and  marry  only  among 
themselves.  As  a  rule  they  are  very  industrious  and  thrifty,  their  chief 
occupation  being  that  of  carriers  and  muleteers.  The  men  wear  a  long- 
skirted  coat,  voluminous  knee-breeches,  and  round  hats  of  felt-,  the 
women  wear  a  short  skirt  and  slashed  sleeves. 

116  M.  Vega-Magaz;  126  M.  Braiiuelas.  The  train  now  reaches 
the  watershed  between  the  Douro  and  Minho  and  penetrates  the 
crest  of  the  Manzanal  Mts,^  at  a  height  of  3300  ft.,  by  a  tunnel 
164:0  ft.  long.  The  descent  on  the  other  side  (la  bajada  del  Manzanal) 
is  full  of  variety.  The  train  bends  to  the  S.W.  and  N.  in  three 
curves  and  threads  11  tunnels  before  reaching  (133  M.)  Xa  Oranja^ 
which  remains  to  the  right.  It  then  runs  towards  the  S.,  surmount- 
ing the  watershed  between  the  Tremor  and  the  Silva  by  means  of 
two  tunnels.  The  railway  next  turns  to  the  N.E.  and  again  pene- 
trates this  ridge  by  a  tunnel  1140  yds.  long,  passing  under  the  part 


to  Corunna.  PONFERRADA.  51.  Route.    481 

of  the  track  just  traversed  310  ft.  above.  Finally  it  runs  towards 
the  W.,  once  more  passing  La  Granja,  which  this  time  lies  to  the 
left.  Eight  more  tunnels,  besides  huge  cuttings  and  bridges,  are 
passed  before  we  reach  (139  M.)  Torre,  which  lies  about  1440  ft. 
lower  than  the  tunnel  of  Branuelas. 

144  M.  Bembibre,  with  the  ruined  chateau  of  the  Dukes  of  Frias 
and  the  church  of  San  Pedro,  formed  of  a  15th  cent,  synagogue. 
Beyond  (160  M.)  San  Miguel  de  las  Duenas  we  thread  six  tunnels 
and  cross  the  Sil. 

156  M.  Fonferraila  (164(Tft. ;  Fonda  de  las  Astorganas,  pens. 
5-6  p. ;  Bail.  Bestaurant),  the  Interamnium  Flavium  of  the  Romans, 
is  a  town  of  7000  inhab.,  situated  on  a  lofty  plateau  and  command- 
ing a  fine  yiew  of  the  district  encircled  by  the  Sil  and  the  Boeza. 
The  Gothic  church  of  Santa  Maria  de  la  Encina  contains  a  good  ro- 
table of  the  16th  cent,  and  a  figure  of  the  Magdalen  by  Gregorio  Her- 
nandez (p.  lix).  The  Ayuntamiento,  with  its  slender  towers,  dates 
from  the  17th  century.  Above  the  town  are  the  imposing  remains 
of  a  castle  of  the  Knights  Templar  (12th  cent.). 

The  train  now  descends  into  the  valley  of  the  Sil,  in  which 
washing  for  gold  is  successfully  practised.  165  M.  Toral  de  los  Vados 
18  the  junction  of  a  branch-line  to  Villafranca  del  Vierzo.  We  then 
cross  the  Burbia,  thread  a  dozen  tunnels,  and  traverse  romantic 
rocky  gorges.  —  176  M.  Quereno,  the  first  place  in  Galicia;  181  M. 
Sobradelo;  185  M.  El  Barco  de  ValdeorraSj  celebrated  for  its  wine 
and  chestnuts.  The  district  is  hilly  and  picturesque.  192  M.  La 
Bua-Petin.  Near  (198  M.)  Montefurado  (1233  ft.)  the  Sil  flows 
through  a  subterranean  canal,  440  yds.  long,  said  to  have  been 
constructed  by  the  Romans.  Farther  on  the  train  crosses  the  Sil 
twice.  Beyond  (207  M.)  San  Clodio  it  penetrates  the  ridge  of  Lemos, 
at  a  height  of  1475  ft.  above  the  sea ,  and  then  descends  to  the  N. 
218  M.  Puehla  de  Brolldn. 

224  M.  Monforte  de  Lemos  (1260  ft. ;  Fonda  y  CafS  Espanol,  un- 
pretending, pens.  5-6  fr. ;  Bail.  Bestaurant),  a  town  with  4500  inhab., 
lies  on  the  small  river  Cahe,  on  a  hill  crowned  with  a  ruined  castle  of 
the  Lords  of  Lemos.  The  Benedictine  monastery,  once  of  considerable 
importance,  is  now  a  hospital.  The  church  of  the  Jesuit  college  con- 
tains a  noteworthy  retablo  by  Francisco  Monro  (18th  cent.).  —  Mon- 
forte is  the  junction  of  the  railway  to  Vigo  and  Pontevedra  (p.  491). 

Our  line  crosses  the  Cabe  and  runs  through  magnificent  forests 
of  oak  and  chestnut.  Beyond  (232  M.)  Bdveda  we  thread  several 
tunnels  and  cross  the  viaduct  of  Linares.  234  M.  Bubian.  We  next 
cross  the  watershed  (2165  ft.)  between  the  Cabe.  and  the  Sarria. 
240  M.  Oural,  with  chalybeate-arsenical  springs.  The  railway  here 
traverses  the  plain  of  (246  M.)  Sarria,  the  Roman  Flavia  Lamiris. 
255  M.  Puebla  de  San  JuUdn.  Beyond  (262  M.)  Lajosa  we  cross  a 
viaduct  commanding  an  extensive  view. 

268  M.  Lugo  (1512  ft.;  H6t.  Mendez  Nunez,  pens.  6-7 p.,  carr 

Baedeker's  Spain.  31 


482   Route  61.  LUGO. 

to  meet  the  trains;  CafS  Espanot),  the  capital  of  (ralicia  and  the 
see  of  a  bishop,  is  a  town  of  12,000  Inhab.,  situated  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Miriko  or  Mfno,  in  a  populous  plain.  It  is  the  Luctts 
Augusti  of  the  Romans,  and  the  city-walls,  1  ^4  M.  long  and  30-35  ft. 
high,  incorporate  much  Roman  masonry.  The  town  was  taken 
successiyely  by  the  Saeyi,  Moors,  Normans,  and  Alfonso  HI. ;  in 
1809  It  was  sacked  by  the  French,  and  in  1835  by  the  Oarlists. 

The  Cathedral  passes  for  one  of  the  more  Important  monnments 
of  the  12th  cent.,  but  contains  so  many  additions  of  a  later  date 
that  the  impression  of  a  Romanesque  \)uilding  is  almost  wholly  lost. 
The  main  facade  and  the  towers  are  of  the  18th  century.  The 
Romanesque  N.  portal,  which  is  sheltered  by  a  Gothic  porch 
(15th  cent.),  is  adorned  with  a  relief  of  the  Saviour  and  has  iron- 
mounted  doors  of  the  12th  century.  The  aisles  belong  to  the 
12th  cent,  but  the  high  and  airy  naye,  with  its  fine  triforium  and 
pointed  arches,  dates  from  the  15-16th  centuries.  The  richly  carved 
stalls  are  by  Francisco  Monro  (1624);  the  rococo  retablo  of  the 
capilla  mayor  was  executed  by  the  French  engineer  Lemaur.  Like 
San  Isidore  at  Leon,  this  church  enjoys  the  privilege  of  having  the 
Host  perpetually  *de  maniflesto\  The  sacristy  contains  an  Italian 
relief  in  alabaster  (16th  cent.),  and  in  the  Capilla  de  San  Froil/in  is 
the  font,  formed  of  an  ancient  capital.  The  cloisters  date  from  1714. 

The  convent-church  of  Santo  Domingo  (14th  cent.)  has  a  Ro- 
manesque portal  and  contains  the  tomb  of  the  knight  Yalcarcel 
(chapel  to  the  right  of  the  apse").  —  The  neighbouring  conventual 
church  of  San  Francisco  possesses  some  tombs  of  the  15th  century. 

A  visit  should  be  paid  to  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion,  with  the 
Paseo  del  Cantdn,  the  market,  and  the  Casa  Coruistorial  (1736).  A 
perambulation  of  the  town-walls  (approaches  at  the  Puerta  de  la 
Estacion  and  opposite  the  cathedral)  affords  good  views  of  Lugo 
itself  and  its  environs.  —  The  Sulphur  Springs  near  the  rail,  station 
were  known  to  the  Romans. 

Beyond  Lugo  the  railway  skirts  the  Minho,  traversing  a  pic- 
turesque country.  We  cross  the  Minho,  and  then,  beyond  (277  M.) 
Rdhade,  the  Caldo  and  the  Ladra.  285  M.  Santiago  de  Baamonde; 
290  M.  Parga,  At  (294  M.)  Ouitirix  we  reach  the  province  of  Coruna. 
303  M.  Teijeiro;  309  M.  Curtis;  321  M,  San  Pedro  de  Oza.  — 
3251/2  M.  Betnnzos^  pleasantly  situated  on  the  Mandeo  and  the 
MendOj  has  two  bridges  and  a  ruined  castle  of  the  Moorish  period. 
Its  name  is,  perhaps,  an  echo  of  the  Celtic  and  Roman  Flavium 
Brigantium.  —  333  M.  Carribre:  336  V2  M.  El  Burgo  Santiago. 

340  M.  COTUnna.  —  The  Railway  Station  lies  at  the  extreme  S.  end 
of  the  town.  The  omnibus  runs  only  to  the  office  of  the  Etperanza^ 
Buanueva  3.    The  hotel  porters  take  charge  of  the  lugerage. 

Hotels.  Fonda  Ferrocarrilana,  at  the  corner  of  the  Calle  Beal  and 
the  Ruamieva;  ff6t  de  Frmeey  Ruanueva  27,  pens.  T'/s-lO  p. 

Gaf^s.     Suizo,  Mendee  NiMeg^  both  in  the  Calle  Real. 

Steamers  ply  from  Oorunna  to  Gijon^  Santander.  and  Bilbao ;  also  to 
Vigo  and  Lisbon  (Pacific  Steam  Navigation  Co.). 


GORUNNA.  57.  Route.   483 

Diligence  to  Santiago  (40  H.).  That  known  as  La  Ftrrocarrikma^ 
starting  at  Buanaeva  3.  may  be  recommended  (two  vehicles  daily,  in 
7 1/2  hrs.  \  fares  12  p.  50  c,  10  p.,  7  p.  60  c).  Places  should  be  secured 
in  advance. 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office,  Calle  de  la  Fama. 

Sea  Bathing  at  Biator^  on  the  Bay  of  Orzan,  and  Bl  Parroie^  at  La 
Bahia  (V2-I  p> ;  dress  and  towels  not  supplied). 

Phytieiant.  Ramon  Perez  Co*iales,  Calle  Teresa  Herrera ;  Jo$4  Rodri- 
guez Martinez^  Calle  San  Andres  76.  —  Dentist.  WiWam  MitcMly  Blego 
de  Aenia  9.  —  Apothecary.    /.  Villar,  Calle  Beal  82. 

Consult.  Great  Britain,  C.  A.  P.  Talbot^  Calle  Linares  Bivas  2;  vice- 
consul,  R.  de  Urioite.  —  United  States,  Julio  Harmony;  vice-consul,  Rai- 
mundo  Molinti.  —  Lloyd's  Agent,  /.  MareheH^  Heal  94. 

Booksellers.  La  Literaria^  Carri^  Calle  Real  98  and  30.  —  Photographs. 
Ferrer^  Calle  Real  61. 

Convrmay  Span.  La  Corufia,  still  known  to  British  sailors  as  The 
Groyne  (La  Cruna),  the  capital  of  the  province  of  that  name  and 
the  seat  of  the  governor  and  the  captain-general  of  Gallcla,  is  a 
city  of  37,000  inhab.,  finely  situated  on  a  tongue  of  land  between 
the  bays  of  El  Orzan  (W.)  and  La  Bahia  (E.).  It  is  the  chief  mili- 
tary station  In  N.  Spain  and  a  commercial  city  of  the  first  rank, 
exporting  onions,  potatoes,  beans  (mainly  to  the  Antilles),  fiult, 
wine,  hams,  and  many  other  articles.  The  entrances  to  La  Bahia  and 
the  harbonr  are  protected  by  Fort  San  Antonio. 

The  town  is  supposed  to  be  of  Phoenician  origin  and  was  the  Portus 
Moffnue  Artabrorum  of  the  Romans.  In  the  middle  ages  it  was  known  as 
Caroniumy  and  long  belonged  to  the  emirate  of  Cdrdova.  John  of  Gaunt 
landed  at  Corunna  in  1386  to  claim  the  throne  of  Castile  in  right  of 
his  daughter,  wife  of  Pedro  the  Crwel.  Philip  II.  embarked  here  in  1564 
for  England  to  marry  Queen  Mary ;  and  it  was  from  Corunna  that  the 
invincible  Armada',  consisting  of  130  large  war-ships  with  an  army  of 
30,000  men,  sailed  in  1588  to  conquer  Great  Britain.  In  1698  a  British 
fleet  under  Drake  appeared  before  the  town  and  burned  it  down.  At  a 
later  date  the  British  won  two  important  naval  victories  off  Corunna: 
that  of  June  14th,  1747,  in  which  the  French  fleet  was  defeated,  and  that 
of  July  22nd,  1F05,  when  the  French  and  Spanish  fleet  was  destroyed. 
On  Jan.  16th,  1809,  a  sanguinary  contest  took  place  on  the  neighbouring 
heights  of  Elyina,  when  Marshal  Soult,  at  the  head  of  much  superior 
forces,  vainly  endeavoured  to  prevent  the  embarkation  of  the  British 
army  under  Sir  John  Moore,  who  was  killed  during  the  battle.  Corunna 
was  taken  by  the  French  in  1823  and  by  the  Garlists  in  1836. 

A  characteristic  feature  of  Corunna  is  the  Miradoree^  or  glazed  and 
gaily-painted  window-balconies. 

Like  most  of  the  larger  towns  on  the  N.  coast  of  Spain,  Corunna 
consists  of  an  Old  Town  on  the  heights  and  a  Nbw  Town  below. 
The  latter,  named  La  PeseaderiOf  is  nearest  the  rail,  station  and 
extends  from  La  Bahia  to  El  Orzan.  Most  of  Its  handsome  streets 
are  paved  with  granite.  Along  the  harbour  runs  the  animated 
Avenida  de  I08  Cantones,  with  the  Alameda^  a  statue  of  Daniel 
CarbaUo,  the  politician,  by  Farlno  (erected  In  1896),  and  the  pretty 
grounds  of  the  Paseo  de  Mendet  Nunez.  At  the  S.  end  of  the  har- 
bour is  the  large  tobacco-factory  of  La  Palloza.  —  The  Calle  Real 
and  Calle  Riego,  adjoining  the  Paseo  on  the  N.E.,  lead  past  the 
theatre  to  the  Plaza  de  Maria  Pita  and  the  old  town. 

The  Old  Town,  which  Is  closely  built  and  In  part  enclosed  \ 

21* 


484  Route  51.  FERROL. 

an  old  line  of  walls,  lies  on  a  height  to  the  N.E.  of  the  harbour.  Its 
focus  is  the  Plaza  de  la  ConstitiLcion  or  de  Atcdrragaj  which  is  beau- 
tified with  ornamental  grounds.  Here  stand  the  Capitania  General 
and  the  churches  of  Santa  Maria  and  Santiago  (12- 13th  cent.),  both 
with  interesting  Romanesque  portals.  To  the  E.  lies  the  Jardin  de 
San  Carlos,  with  the  last  resting-place  of  Sir  John  Moore;  the 
monument,  erected  in  1814,  bears  the  simple  inscription:  'Johannes 
Moore,  Exercitus  Britannici  Dux,  Praelio  occisus  A.  D.  1809*.  On 
the  N.  wall  of  the  garden  is  a  memorial  tablet  to  the  172  officers 
and  seamen  of  the  British  man-of-war  'Serpent',  which  was  lost  at 
Cape  Villano  in  Not.,  1890. 

In  the  old  town,  a  little  to  the  N.  of  the  Plaza  de  Maria  Pita, 
is  the  Cuartel  de  Alfonso  Doce^  or  barracks.  The  Calle  Orilla- 
Mar  leads  hence  to  the  N.W.  to  the  Roman  Catholic  and  English 
Cemeteries  and  on  past  the  (left)  Parque  de  San  Amaro  (magazine 
of  ammunition),  to  (1  M.  farther)  the  Torre  de  Hercules,  which 
rises  on  a  hill  (390  ft.)  to  the  W.  This  tower,  said  to  have  been 
built  in  the  time  of  Emp.  Hadrian,  has  been  used  as  a  lighthouse 
since  1792  and  commands  a  free  view. 

A  steamer  plies  daily  from  Curunna  (IV4  br.;  fares  3,  IV2  p.)  to 
(12  m.)  the  naval  port  oi  "EvnolC Fonda  Suiza;  Brit,  vice-consul^.  ^fWon; 
U.S.  vice-consul,  If.  Perez).  Tbis  charmingly  situated  town  (23,000  ii^bab.} 
is  strongly  fortified  and  protected  by  advanced  forts.  The  arsenal,  laid 
out  by  Charles  III.,  with  its  wharves  and  docks,  has  an  area  of  25  acres. 


52.  From  Leon  to  Oviedo  and  Oijon. 

107  M.  Eailwat  (Ferroearrile*  del  Norte;  one  irea  corr^o  or  passenger 
train  daily)  in  7  hrs.  (fares  17  p.  70,  13  p.  30  c,  8  p.).  In  summer  the 
tren  corr^o  runs  in  6V4  brs-,  and  there  is  also  a  fren  mixto  in  8  hrs. 
(through-carriages).  —  The  trains  start,  both  at  Leon  and  at  Gijon,  from 
the  Ettadon  del  Norte.    Railway-restaurant  at  Leon. 

Leon,  see  p.  474.  —  The  railway  follows  the  well-tilled  valley 
of  the  Bemesga.  l^j^  M.  SaniihciLnez,  The  Astarian  mountains  are 
descried  in  the  distance.  At  PueiAe  de  Alba  we  cross  the  river.  To 
the  right  is  the  pilgrimage-chapel  of  the  Buen  Suceso.  16  M.  La 
Rohla,  situated  amid  coal-pits,  is  the  junction  of  a  branch-line  to 
Bilbao  (p.  21)  via  Mataporquera.  —  21  M.  Pola  de  Oord6n.  The 
railway,  the  road,  and  the  river  enter  side  by  side  a  narrow  rocky 
gorge,  with  numerous  bridges  and  tunnels.  26  M.  Cinerai  28  V2M. 
VUlamanin.  Beyond  (331/2  M.)  Busdongo  is  the  Perruca  Tunnel 
(2  M.  long  J  4215  ft.  above  the  sea),  which  penetrates  the  main  chain 
of  the  Cantabrian  Mts.  As  we  emerge  from  it  we  enjoy  a  fine  view 
of  the  nlountains  to  the  left.  The  direct  distance  between  Bus- 
dongo and  Puente  de  los  Fierros  (p.  485)  is  only  7  M.,  but  it 
takes  26  M.  uf  railway  to  overcome  the  difference  of  2515  ft.  in  their 
elevations.  The  train  descends  rapidly  through  58  spiral  and  other 
tunnels,  over  numerous  bridges  and  embankments,  through  deep  cut- 
tings, and  round  sharp  curves.  Beautiful  views.  At  (39 1/2  M.)  Pa- 


OVIEDO.  52.  Route.  485 

jares  we  reach  the  province  of  Oviedo.  45^2  M.  Navldiello;  62  M. 
Linares;  65  M.  Malvedo. 

59  V2  M.  Puente  de  loaFierros  (1700  ft.),  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Pajares  and  the  Parana;  62  M.  Campomanes.  67 1/2  M*  ■Po^''  ^*  Lena, 
in  a  wide  and  attractiye  valley,  was  the  birthplace  of  Gonzalo  Bayon, 
conqueror  of  Florida  (1565).  72  M.  Vjo;  723/4  M.  Santullano;  76M. 
MiereSy  the  centre  of  a  district  rich  in  iron,  coal,  sulphur,  and 
cinnabar;  77  M.  Ablana.  We  croBS  the  Caudal.  79  M.  OUoniego. 
We  thread  several  tunnels  and  cross  the  green  valleys  of  Bareo  Soto 
and  NaUSn.  —  81 1/2  M.  Soto  de  Rey^  the  junction  of  a  branch-line 
running  to  the  E.  to  Tudela-Veguin  B.nd  Ciano-Santa-Ana.  — Beyond 
(83  M.)  Las  Segadas  we  pass  through  two  more  tunnels  and  under 
the  arches  of  the  aqueduct  of  Fitoria  (p.  488). 

87  M.  Oviedo.  —  BaUway  Stations.  1.  Estaeidn  del  Norte,  to  the  K. 
of  the  town,  at  the  end  of  the  Calle  Urfa,  for  the  lines  to  Madrid,  <J^ijon, 
Truhia,  and  San  Juan  de  Nieva.  —  2.  E»taci6n  de  lot  Ferrocarriles  JSeono- 
micos  de  Asturias,  close  to  the  Estaci(>n  del  Norte,  for  the  trains  to  In- 
fiesto.  —  No  cabs  or  omnibuses  meet  the  trains,  but  there  is  a  tramway 
juat  outside  the  station.    Luggage  is  handed  over  to  the  hotel -porters. 

Hotels.  H6tel  Trannoy  (Swiss  landlord),  Calle  Altamirano  8-10, 
pens,  fr  m  l^jz  p. ;  Hdt.  de  Pari*^  Calle  Pelayo  12  and  Calle  TJria  14,  pens, 
from  7  V2  p.  —  Kostauranta  at  the  hotels.  —  Cafes.  G.  Eepafidl ,  Calle 
Cimadevilla^  C.  de  Parity  Calle  Fruela.  —  Beer  at  the  Eetrella^  Calle  Uria, 
by  the  Estacidn  del  Norte. 

Tramway  from  the  Estaddn  del  Norie,  through  the  Calles  Urfa,  Fruela, 
and  Jesus,  to  the  Plaza  Mayor,  with  branch  from  the  Calle  TJrfa  to  the 
Campo  de  la  Lana.    Fare  10  c. 

Bookseller:  J.  Mart'nez,  Plazuela  de  Riego.  —  Photographs:  Bazar 
IngUe,  Calle  Bua. 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office,  Calle  Milicias. 

Oviedo  (740  ft.),  the  capital  of  a  province  of  its  own  name  and 
the  see  of  a  bishop,  is  a  city  of  21,000  inhah.,  situated  on  a  hill 
slope  rising  from  the  Nora  and  enclosed  by  fertile  plain  and  pictur- 
esque mountains.  Its  nucleus  was  a  monastery  founded  in  the 
8th  cent,  by  Fruela,  and  in  791  Alfonso  the  Chaste  made  it  the 
capital  of  the  struggling  kingdom  of  Asturias.  The  Normans  failed 
in  their  attempts  to  capture  it,  and  the  Arabs,  who  invaded  Asturias 
under  Almanzor,  were  equally  unsuccessful.  The  town  lost  its 
importance  as  the  victorious  Eeconqulstadores  pushed  their  way 
farther  to  the  S.  Marshall  Ney  occupied  Oviedo  in  May,  1809,  and 
allowed  his  troops  to  plunder  it  for  three  days.  —  It  was  at  Oviedo 
that  Le  Sage's  hero,  Gil  Bias,  spent  his  boyhood. 

The  •Cathedral,  tbe  chief  lion  of  the  town,  stands  in  the 
Plazuela  de  la  Catedral,  in  the  ancient  quarter  of  Monte  Santo. 
This  was  the  site  of  the  church  erected  by  Fruela  I.  in  the  8th  cent., 
which  Alfonso  II.  rebuilt  in  830  and  surrounded  with  protecting 
walls.  The  foundation-stone  of  the  present  Gothic  structure  was 
laid  in  1388  by  Bishop  Gutierrez  de  Toledo.  The  church  was  conse- 
crated by  Bishop  Mendoza  in  1528,  but  the  decoration  of  the  build- 
ing was  not  completed  till  the  end  of  the  17th  century. 

The  cathedral  consists  of  nave  and  aisles,   transepts,    and 


486  RouU62.  OYIEDO.  From  Lton 

semicircular  apse  with  an  ambulatory.  It  is  220  ft  long  and  72  f  c. 
wide ;  the  naye  is  66  ft.  high,  the  aisles  33  ft  The  building  material 
ie  mainly  limestone  (piedra  ealista).  The  main  facade  has  three 
graceful  Gothic  doorways,  protected  by  a  porch.  The  relief  of  the 
Transflgnration  above  tiie  central  entrance  is  of  later  date.  To  the 
right  and  left  are  busts  of  Fruela  I.  and  Alfonso  II.  The  wood^ 
carvings  of  the  doors  are  modem  works  by  Francisco  Meana;  the 
best  are  those  of  the  middle  door,  with  medallions  of  the  Saviour 
and  of  St  Eulalia,  the  tutelar  of  the  cathedral.  The  screen  dates 
from  1846.  —  Two  towers  were  designed,  but  one  only  (that  to  the 
S.)  has  been  finished  (1539).  This  is  270  ft  in  height  and  is  a 
marvel  of  boldness  and  grace.  The  lower  three  stages  and  the 
elegant  open-work  spire  are  in  a  pure  Gothic  style,  but  the  fourth 
stage  shows  traces  of  Renaissance  influence  botii  in  structure  and 
ornamentation.  The  entrance  to  the  tower  is  at  the  W.  end  of  the 
right  aisle ;  an  ascent  is  recommended,  as  the  top  affords  a  beautiful 
panorama  of  the  environs  of  Oviedo.  The  oldest  bell  in  the  tower 
(^Wamba')  dates  from  1219  and  hung  originally  in  a  tower  erected 
by  Alfonso  VI.  over  the  Gamara  Santa  (p.  487),  the  ruins  of  which 
are  visible  from  the  Galle  de  la  Gorrada  del  Obispo  (S.  side). 

The  Intbriob,  with  its  slender  clustered  pillars,  its  lofty  vault- 
ing, its  open-work  triforium,  and  the  tracery  and  stained  glass  of 
its  windows,  makes  a  noble  and  harmonious  impression,  which, 
however,  is  not  a  little  marred  by  the  reddish-yellow  wash  with 
which  the  stone-work  has  been  covered  in  modern  times.  —  The 
Coro,  in  the  nave,  contains  elaborately  carved  *StalIs  of  the 
16th  cent.,  in  which  scenes  from  the  Old  Testament  are  mingled 
with  the  most  grotesque  and  secular  representations.  The  somewhat 
heavy  reja  is  of  the  16th  cent. ;  the  organs,  in  the  Churrigueresque 
style  (p.  li),  date  from  the  18th  century.  The  Trascoro  is  executed 
in  a  mixture  of  the  Gothic  and  plateresque  styles.  The  Retablo  de 
la  Virgen  dt  la  Luz  (1620)  is  richly  adorned  with  marble  statuettes, 
arabesques,  and  canopies.  The  side-niches,  with  the  statues  of 
Apostles,  are  modem.  —  The  smaller  chapels  were  decorated  in  the 
17-18th  cent,  in  the  most  unbridled  baroque  style.  The  CapiUa  de 
Santa  EiUalia,  in  the  left  aisle,  contains  a  silver-gilt  shrine  of  the 
11th  cent,  with  the  ashes  of  the  saint.  —  A  modern  bronze  railing 
extends  from  the  W.  end  of  the  nave  to  the  capilla  mayor.  The 
four  piers  at  the  crossing  are  more  massive  and  more  elaborate 
than  the  others.  To  the  right  of  the  capilla  mayor  is  a  figure  of 
Christ,  disfigured  by  modern  painting  and  placed  on  a  small  pedestal 
adorned  with  shells;  this  is  probably  a  work  of  the  12th  cent., 
belonging  to  an  old  sanctuary.  —  The  Capilla  MayoVy  occupying 
the  pentagonal  apse  and  flanked  by  the  semicircular  ambulatory, 
has  fine  traceried  windows  filled  with  stained  glass.  The  *Retablo, 
in  five  sections,  is  a  notable  work  by  Qiraltay  Balmaseda,  Picardo, 
and  other  artists  of  the  15-16th  cent.,  unskilfully  restored  in  1879. 


to  Qijon.  OVIEDO.  52.  Route,  487 

It  includes  scenes  from  the  life  of  Chiist,  numerous  figures  of 
saints,  and  elaborate  ornamental  carving.  The  white  marble  taber- 
nacle in  the  Gothic  style,  consisting  of  three  sections  and  contain- 
ing bronze-gilt  figures  of  Christ  and  the  Apostles,  was  executed  in 
1869  from  the  design  of  Juan  Madrazo.  To  the  left  is  the  tomb  of 
Archbp.  Arias  de  VUkir,  with  a  kneeling  portrait-figure  in  an  elegant 
Gothic  niche  (1490). 

From  the  N.  transept  an  ornate  Gothic  portal  leads  to  the  CapUla 
del  Bey  Casto^  which  was  erected  in  1712  in  the  most  extravagant 
baroque  style,  to  take  the  place  of  the  Lady  Chapel  destined  by 
Alfonso  II.  for  the  reception  of  the  royal  tombs.  The  ^Panteon  de 
los  Reyes',  on  the  N.  side  of  this  chapel,  now  possesses  but  one  of 
the  ancient  sarcophagi,  that  of  the  Infante  (?)  Itaoius,  supposed  to 
date  from  the  8th  century.  A  modem  inscription  enumerates  the 
rulers  whose  ashes  are  said  to  be  deposited  in  the  urns  in  the 
recesses  in  the  wall. 

From  the  S.  transept  a  flight  of  steps  ascends  to  a  Gothic  vesti- 
bule with  a  modern  altar,  whence  a  beautifully  ornamented  Gothic 
doorway  leads  to  ih.e*Camara  Santa^  which  consists  of  two  chambers 
(adm.  only  at  8.30  a.  m.  and  8  p.  m.).  The  smaller  room  which 
contains  the  relics  is  entirely  without  ornament,  lighted  only  by  one 
small  window,  and  roofed  with  low  barrel-vaulting.  It  originally 
formed  part  of  the  Capilla  de  San  Miguel,  which  Alfonso  U.  erected 
alongside  the  oldest  church.  The  larger  room,  in  the  Romanesque 
style,  also  with  barrel- vaulting  and  one  narrow  window,  was  added 
by  Alfonso  VI.  in  the  11th  century.  The  arch,  the  frieze,  and  the 
capitals  are  adorned  with  carefully  executed  scenes  from  the  life 
of  Christ  and  combats  of  men  and  animals.  The  place  of  Caryatides 
is  taken  by  statues  of  Apostles,  arranged  in  pairs  on  fantastic  pedes- 
tals. The  handsome  tesselated  flooring  is  of  a  kind  much  used  in 
Spain  before  the  14th  century.  On  the  walls  are  modern  portraits 
of  Kings  Belayo,  Fruela  I.,  Alfonso  II.,  and  Alfonso  IV. 

The  Rblics  and  Tbkasubbs  of  the  Camara  Santa  luckily  escaped 
the  ravages  of  the  French  in  1809.  Most  of  the  relics  now  exposed  were 
probably  taken  from  the  celebrated  Arca^  a  Byzantine  chest  of  cedar  of 
the  11th  cent.,  covered  with  thin  silver-plating  with  low-reliefs  of  scenes 
from  the  lives  of  Christ,  the  Virgin,  and  the  Apostles.  Round  the  bor- 
der runs  an  inscription  in  Latin  and  Cufic  characters.  The  relics  include 
a  piece  of  the  staff  of  Moses ,  a  fragment  of  the  True  Cross,  one  of  the 
silver  pieces  for  which  Judas  betrayed  his  Lord,  Mary  Magdalen's  hair, 
a  sandal  and  leathern  wallet  of  St.  Peter,  a  fragment  of  the  tomb  of 
Lazarus,  and  some  crumbs  left  over  from  the  Feeding  of  the  Five 
Thousand.  Among  the  treasures  of  more  intrinsic  value  are  the  Cruz  de 
lot  Angeles  (8th  cent.),  the  gift  of  Alfonso  II.,  and  the  Cruz  de  la  Victoria^ 
originally  belonging  to  Pelayo  and  ornamented  with  gold  and  precious  " 
stones  by  Alfonso  III.  —  The  relics  are  shown  by  a  chorister  in  presence 
'of  one  of  the  clergy,  and  no  chance  is  afforded  of  a  close  inspection. 

The  Puerta  del  Claustro  leads  from  the  S.  transept  of  the  cathe- 
dral to  the  *  Cloisters  (14-16th  cent.),  which  are  distinguished  by 
an  inexhaustible  wealth  of  angels'  heads,  prophets,  fantastic  scenes, 
and  other  ornamentation.     The  mural  tombs  and  gravestones,  ii 


488  RouU  52,  OVIEDO.  From  Leon 

the  Romanegque  and  Gothic  styles  of  the  12-14th  cent.  ,  were 
brought  hither  from  other  desecrated  churches  and  are  arranged 
without  any  attempt  at  system.  —  The  Gothic  £fato  Capitular,  with 
an  octagonal  vault,  dates  from  the  13th  cent,  and  served  originally 
as  a  hall  of  audience  for  the  Spanish  kings  when  at  Oviedo. 

Among  the  M8S.  in  the  Abcuivo  are  a  deed  of  gift  of  Alfonso  II. 
(812);  the  Lihro  Ootico^  a  richly  illustrated  collection  of  documents  of  the 
i2th  cent.;  the  Regla  Colorado^  an  inventory  of  1384;  and  the  Libro  Be- 
eerro^  a  collection  of  church-registers  and  synodal  reports  (1886). 

In  the  nelghhonrhood  of  the  cathedral  lie  the  churches  of  San 
TirsOy  San  Juan^  San  Pelayo,  San  Vicente,  and  Santa  Maria  de  la 
Corte,  dating  from  the  8-14th  cent,  but  all  disfigured  by  restoration. 
To  the  S.,  at  the  beginning  of  the  Calle  Santa  Ana,  is  the  handsome 
palace  of  Count  de  las  Navas  (17th  cent.).  —  From  this  quarter  the 
Calle  Lorenzana,  Calle  Jovellanos,  and  Carretera  de  Gijon  (views) 
lead  to  the  N.E.  to  the  neighbonring  churches  of  Scm  Julian  (San- 
tuUiano)  and  Santa  Maria  de  la  Vega,  dating  from  the  9th  and 
12th  centuries.  The  former,  in  spite  of  restoration,  has  preserved 
much  of  its  original  character.  The  latter,  which  belonged  to  a 
Benedictine  convent  now  converted  into  a  JRoyal  Factory  of  Small 
Arm$,  has  been  secularized  and  cannot  be  visited  without  the  per- 
mission of  the  director  of  the  factory. 

We  now  retrace  our  steps  and  proceed  to  the  S.W.  to  the  Plaza 
Mayor  or  db  la  Constittjoion,  the  focus  of  the  town's  activity,  with 
the  Casa  Consistorial  (1662)  and  the  former  Jesuit  church  of  San 
Isidoro  (1678).  Our  route  to  it  passes  the  convent  of  San  Pelayo, 
and  follows  the  Calles  Jovellanos,  San  Juan  (to  the  right,  the  Au- 
diencia,  formerly  the  palace  of  the  Marquis  de  Campo  Sagrado), 
Rua,  and  Cimadevilla.  —  From  the  Plaza  Mayor  we  proceed  to  the 
N.,  vilL  the  Calle  del  Peso,  the  Plaza  de  Riego,  and  the  Calle  San 
Francisco,  to  the  Unwersidad  (1666),  with  a  picture-gallery  contain- 
ing portraits  of  Asturian  worthies  and  specimens  of  Ribera,  Ricci, 
Zurbaran,  Herrera,  and  Giordano.  There  is  also  a  poorly  arranged 
museum  of  natural  history.  In  the  middle  of  the  fine  arcaded  court 
is  a  bust  of  Queen  Isabella  II.  (1858). 

Beyond  the  Calle  Urfa,  to  the  W.,  are  the  Jardm  Botanico  and 
two  beautiful  promenades  called  the  Saldn  de  Bomhi  and  the  Campo 
de  San  Francisco.  In  the  Escuela  Normal,  at  the  end  of  the  Calle 
Urfa,  is  housed  the  Mitseo  Arqueologico  Asturiano,  containing  pre- 
historic objects,  inscriptions,  architectural  fragments,  Roman  and 
later  vessels  of  terracotta,  glass,  and  metal,  and  a  cabinet  of  coins. 
Adjacent,  at  the  end  of  the  Calle  del  Regente  Jaz,  stands  the 
Hospieio  Provincial,  an  extensive  edifice  by  Ventura  Rodriguez 
(1750),  with  a  tasteful  chapel.  To  the  S.W.  of  the  rail,  station  is 
the  Aqueduct  of  Fitoria  (p.  486),  ^4  M.  long  and  having  41  arches, 
dating  from  the  16th  century. 

ExcuBSiONs.    1.  The  hamlet  of  Naranco,  situated  on  the  slope  of  tbe 

■'^a  de  Naranco,  IV4  M.  from  Oviedo  (fatiguing  ascent),  has  two  highly 

sting,  but  sadly  neglected  churches  of  the  time  of  Ramiro  I.  (843- 


to  a^on.  GIJON.  52.  RouU.   489 

850).  Santa  Maria  de  Naranco^  perhaps  a  part  of  Bamiro^s  palace,  con- 
sists of  a  cella-like  nave  with  waggon-vauUing,  opening  by  three  arches 
into  a  choir  at  one  end  and  a  presbytery  at  the  other.  Below  is  a  crypt. 
*Tbe  chief  interest  of  this  building  lies  in  the  fact  that  it  exhibits  the 
Spaniards  in  the  middle  of  the  9th  cent,  trying  to  adapt  a  Pagan  temple 
to  Christian  purposes*  (Ferguuon).  —  San  Miguel  de  Lino  is  a  basilica 
with  nave  and  aisles,  but  was  sadly  disfigured  in  1846  by  the  curtailment 
of  the  apse  and  the  alteration  of  the  originally  semicircular  chapels.  The 
remains  of  the  rude  stone  ornamentation  suggest  Oriental  models. 

2.  The  royal  cannon-foundry  and  small-arms  factory  of  Trubia  CFojuia 
de  la  Fabrica)^  8  M.  to  the  W^  are  reached  by  railway  (3  trains  daily) 
in  V«  ^r-  (fores  1  p.  65»  1  p.  20,  75  c).  Trains  start  at  the  Estacion  del 
Iforte.    Visitors  are  admitted  on  application. 

3.  To  visit  0>vadonga  (see  below),  we  take  the  railway  to  (30  H.  in 
2  hrs.  \  fares  5  p.  95^  3  p.  55  c.)  Infietio  (Fonda  de  Perez)  and  drive  thence 
(22  H.  t  4V2  hrs.)  via  Canga*  de  Oni*  (Fonda  de  Ramon  Labra),  where  the 
Sella  is  crossed  by  a  bridge  of  the  12th  cent.,  the  central  arch  of  which  is 
60  ft.  high  and  67ft.  in  span.  —  Oovadonga  (Hw»pedaria,  unpretending),  the 
cradle  of  the  Spanish  monarchy  and  a  frequented  pilgrimage-resort,  is  a 
small  mountain-village  with  an  abbey  of  the  16th  century.  Frum  the  lat- 
ter a  flight  of  steps  ascends  to  the  famous  Cave^  in  which  Pelayo  (d.  787), 
the  founder  of  the  Asturian  kingdom,  took  re^ge  with  300  followers  after 
the  disastrous  battle  on  the  Guadalete.  From  this  coign  of  vantage  ite 
carried  on  his  heroic  resistance  to  the  Moors,  the  beginning  of  the  recon- 
quest  of  Spain.  The  cave  still  contains  the  sarcophagus  which  is  said  to 
hold  the  remidns  of  the  hero,  his  wife  Gandiosa,  and  his  sister  Horme- 
sinda.  The  a^aeent  church  of  Santa  Maria  contains  the  tomb  of  Alfonso  I- 
(d.  757).  The  principal  pilgrimage  takes  place  on  Sept.  8th.  —  From 
Covadonga  excursions  may  be  made  to  the  Lago  de  Enol  and  to  the  top 
of  the  Pelkii  de  Europa  (6560  ft. ;  for  mountain-climbers  only). 

Beyond  Oviedo  the  railway  passes  {9OV2M.)  Lugonea,  (93  M.) 
Lugo  de  JUanera,  (94V2  M.)  Villahona  (junction  of  a  branch  to  Avilis 
and  San  Juan  de  Nieva) ,    Serin  (100  M.) ,  and  (106  M.)  Verina, 

107  M.  Gij6n.  —  Bailway  Stations.  1.  Ettaddn  del  Norte^  to  the 
W.  of  the  town,  on  Pando  Bay,  for  the  line  to  Leon  and  Madrid.  — 
2.  EaUteidn  de  Langreo^  close  by,  for  Langreo  and  Laviana.  —  No  carriages 
meet  the  trains,  but  there  is  a  tramway  from  the  stations  to  the  town. 
Baggage  is  looked  after  by  the  hotel-porters. 

Hotels.  Hot.  Suizo  (Swiss  landlord),  Galle  Corrida  29  \  Hot.  Iberia, 
Galle  Trinidad  24,  both  with  restaurants,  pens.  8  p.  —  Cafes.  C.  Ool&n. 
Calle  Corrida  29-,    C.  Suizo,  C.  Trinidad  24. 

Tramways.  1.  From  the  railway-station  to  the  harbour  via  the  Ave- 
nida,  Travesia  de  la  Bueda  Carmen,  and  Calle  Corrida.  — 2.  From  the  harbour 
to  Somi6  by  the  Galle  Corrida,  C.  Munxiza,  C.  Moros,  C.  Jovellanos,  C. 
San  Bernardo,  C.  Menende/.  Valdc^s,  C.  Uria,  the  Campos  EHseos,  and  La 
Gufa.    Fares  10-20  c. 

Steamers  ply,  more  or  less  regularly,  to  Corunna,  Santander,  Bilbao, 
Vigo,  Cadiz,  London,  Liverpool,  etc. 

Theatres.  Teatro  Jovaianoe,  Calle  Jovellanos,  next  door  to  the  In- 
stituto  Jovellanos;  Campos  Eliseoe,  with  theatre,  circus,  and  garden.  — 
Basque  Ball  Game  (p.  xxix),  Carretera  de  Langreo.  —  Boll  King,  Carretera 
de  Villaviciosa. 

Sea  Baths.  La*  Carolina*,  La  Favorila,  La  Sultana,  all  on  the  Playa 
de  San  Lorenzo  (50-75  c,  including  dress  and  towels;  with  warm  salt- 
water 1  p.  25  c). 

Physieian:  Dr.  Pelayo^  Calle  Villaviciosa  24.  -- Ohemist:  Menendez 
Rodriguez,  Plaza  de  la  Constitneion  4. 

Yice-Oonsnls.  British,  W.  Pmlington,  Calle  Corrida  45  (also  Lloyd's  agent); 
United  States,  Calitto  Alvargonzale*  (agent),  Galle  San  Bernardo  15. 

Bookseller:    F.  Menendez,  Calle  Corrida  20.  —  Photographs:   Palac 
Calle  Corrida  25. 


490  Boute52.  GIJON. 

Bankttt.     Bank  of  Spain,   Galle  Trinidad  38;    F.  Rodriguez^    Calle 
Corrida. 

Oijdn,  the  second-largest  town  and  principal  seaport  of  Astur- 
ias,  is  a  city  of  18,000  inhab.,  situated  to  the  S.E.  of  Cape  Penas, 
between  two  bays.  It  is  supposed  to  be  of  Roman  origin,  fell  into 
the  hands  of  the  Saracens  in  715,  was  recaptured  by  Pelayo  in  722, 
and  was  the  residence  of  the  Asturian  kings  down  to  791.  In  the 
strife  between  Pedro  the  Gruel  and  his  half-brother,  Henry  of 
Trastamara,  Gijon  was  alternately  the  victim  of  both  parties ;  and 
in  1395  it  was  burned  down.  In  1588  the  harbour  was  the  place  of 
refuge  for  the  remnants  of  the  ^Invincible  Armada'.  —  Gijon  is  now 
a  favourite  sea-batbing  resort.  The  climate  is  mild,  the  average 
temperature  ranging  from  52^  to  70°  Fahr. 

The  town  is  well-built  and  has  thriven  greatly  since  the  con- 
struction of  the  harbour  (1864)  and  its  inclusion  in  the  railway 
system  (1884).  Originally  it  was  confined  to  the  hill  of  Santa  Ca- 
talma  (Cimadevilla),  but  after  its  rebuilding  in  the  15-16th  cent, 
jt  spread  along  the  adjoining  bays.  It  is  now  bounded  by  Cape 
Torres  on  the  W.,  Copt  San  Lorenzo  on  the  £.,  and  the  subnrbs  of 
Ceares  and  Tremanes  on  the  S. 

The  main  activity  of  the  place  is  seen  in  the  W.  quarters  of 
the  town,  containing  the  railway-stations,  harbour,  warehouses,  and 
custom-house.  The  shipping  of  the  coal  found  at  Langreo  occu- 
pies a  large  number  of  men. 

The  main  streets  of  the  inner  town  are  the  new  Avenida^  begin- 
ning at  the  rail,  station  ;  the  CalLe  Corrida^  running  to  the  W.  from 
the  harbour  j  and  the  Calle  Jovellanos,  At  the  end  of  the  Calle  Cor- 
rida rises  a  bronze  statue,  by  M.  Fuxa ,  of  Don  Ga^par  Mclchor  de 
Jovellanos  (1744-1811),  the  statesman  and  author,  who  was  a  native 
of  Gijon.  In  the  Calle  Jovellanos  are  the  Theatre^  the  Markets^  and 
the  ln»tituto  JoveUanos^  an  academy  of  seamanship,  mathematics, 
and  languages,  founded  by  the  statesman  after  whom  it  is  named. 
It  contains  an  admirable  collection  of  ^Drawings  by  Spanish  and 
Foreign  Masters,  well  worth  the  attention  of  lovers  of  art,  in  spite 
of  its  unsatisfactory  arrangement. 

The  collection  (adm.  on  application  to  the  (Umierje;  fee  1  p.)i  consist- 
ing of  about  1000  numbers,  is  arranged  in  five  sections  in  one  of  the 
rooms  of  the  library  (Salon  de  Boc^tos).  The  catalogue  is  by  J.  Menendez 
Azebal.  Among  the  artists  represented  are  /.  de  Arfe  (Nos.  487-4^9 
Sec.  UI,  No.  27);  Alonto  Cano  (232-256;  centre,  1,  2,  3):  Oorreggio  (215 
U,  35);  Albreehl  DUrer  (447-452;  III,  19);  F.  Qoya  r382,  588;  centre,  23); 
Quido  Rem  (228-230;  111,  4,  5);  Giulio  Romano  (126-129;  If,  3,  4);  Miehaei 
Angelo  (28-30;  I,  9):  Murillo  (317-32cJ;  centre,  9,  10,  11);  Rembrandt  (446; 
m,  18);  Ribera  (427429;  III,  13);  Raphael  (140;  II,  8);  Titian  (210-212; 
II.  32,  33);  Vasari  (86;  I,  25):  Velazqwz  (4C6411;  III,  7,  8);  Paolo  Veronm 
(213,  214;  II,  34);  Zurbardn  (337,  33S;  centre,  13).  The  names  attached  to 
the  unsigned  drawings  rest  on  the  authority  of  the  art-historian  Gean 
Bermudez  (d.  1819),  who  was  a  native  of  G^jon. 

By  the  Larbour  (Muelle  del  Oriente)  are  the  palace  of  Count 

^evillajije'do  and  a  monumental  fountain  with  a  statue  of  Pelayo. 

^n  the  Bay  of  San  Lorenzo  are  the  town-hall  and  the  palace  of 


AVILfiS.  52.R0UU,  491 

Count  Yald^s.  The  parish-church  of  San  Pedro,  dating  from  the 
15th  cent.,  has  three  rows  of  aisles  on  each  side.  In  the  outermost 
S.  aisle  is  the  tomb  of  JoYellanos,  with  a  relief-bust  by  M.  Fuxa. 

A  band  plays  on  the  evenings  of  the  bathing  season  in  the 
attractive  Pcueo  de  Begona,  situated  to  the  E.  of  the  town.  —  The 
Tobctcco  Factory,  established  in  1842  in  an  old  Augustine  mon- 
astery, employs  1500  women. 

The  *View  from  the  top  of  the  Santa  Catalina  hill  extends  in 
clear  weather  to  the  PeHas  de  Europa,  the  Monte  Sacro,  and  the 
Cordal  de  Peon  to  the  S.,  to  Cape  Penas  and  Cape  Torres  on  the  W., 
and  Cape  San  Lorenzo. 

From  Gijon  to  Ayili^s,  24  M..  railway  (starting  from  the  Estacion  del 
Norte)  in  IV4  hr.  (fares  4  p.  40,  3  p.  80  c.,  2  p.).  Carriages  are  changed  at 
(I2V2  M.)  ViUabona  (p.  489).  —  Aviles  (Hot.  Iberia),  a  seaport  with  4900 
inhab.,  lies  in  a  picturesque  hilly  district,  at  the  head  of  the  Ria  de  Aviles. 
It  possesses  several  interesting  buildings,  such  as  the  palaces  of  the  Valde- 
cdrzana,  Camposoffrande,  and  Ferrera  families,  the  Qotnic  churches  of  San 
Nieold$  and  San  Francisco^  and  the  Capilla  de  lot  Aloe,  with  many  tombs. 
The  bridge  over  the  Bia  also  deserves  notice. 

A  diligence,  starting  at  Galle  Corrida  24,  runs  daily  from  Qijon  in 
4  hrs.  (fare  4  p.)  to  Villavioioaa  {Fonda  de  Franeiteo  Panda,  unpretending), 
pleasantly  situated  17  M.  to  the  E.,  on  the  ria  of  the  same  name.  It  con- 
tains 800  inhab.  and  the  interesting  Gothic  church  of  Santa  Maria.  —  The 
villages  of  Valdedios  and  Amandi,  near  Villaviciosa.  also  possess  churches 
(San  Salvador  and  San  Juan)  of  the  12-13th  centuries. 


53.  From  Monforte  to  Vigo  and  Santiago 
de  Compostela. 

172  M.  Railway  from  Mon/orte  to  Ft'^o,  111  M.  Uren  corr4o  in  6V2  hrs.« 
tren  mixto  in  Sya  hrs. ;  fares  17  p.  50,  13  p.  15,  7  p.  9  c).  —  Railway  from 
Vigo  to  (19  M.)  Pontevedra  (three  trains  daily)  in  IV4  hr.  (fares  3  p.  60, 
2  p.  70,  1  p.  65  c).  —  Diligence  from  Pontevedra  to  (17  M.)  Carril  thrice 
dally  in  3  hrs.  (fares  5  p.,  3  p.  50,  2  p.  50  c).  —  Railway  (one  tren  corrio 
and  four  trene  mixiot  daily)  from  Carril  to  (25  M.)  Santiago  in  V/t  hr.  (fares 
4  p.  85,  3  p.  60,  2  p.  20  c.).  —  Railway-restaurants  at  Orense,  Vigo,  and 
Santiago. 

Monforte,  see  p.  481.  —  The  railway  runs  to  the  S.  through  the 
valley  of  Lemos  and  then  ascends  to  (6  M.)  Canabal,  where  it 
penetrates  the  Qarganta  del  Ccibe  by  means  of  ten  tunnels.  Beyond 
(12 V2  ^0  ^^^  Esteban  we  cross  the  Minho,  here  separating  the  pro- 
vinces of  Lugo  and  Orense.  18  M.  Los  Peare$;  23  M.  Barra  de  Mino, 

29  M.  Ol^enBe.  —  The  Railway  Station  (Restaurant)  lies  >/«  ^-  ^o  the 
N.  of  the  town.  Omnibuses  meet  the  trains,  but  the  luggage  is  attended 
to  by  the  hotel-porters. 

Hotel.   Db  Roma,  Calle  Progreso  71.  —  Oafe.   Suiso,  Galle  Progreso  45. 

Post  Office,  Calle  Progreso  65.  —  Telegraph  Office,  Calle  Barrera.  — 
Deepacho  Central  (p.  xvi),  Calle  Progreso  47. 

Orense  (470  ft.),  the  capital  of  a  province  and  the  see  of  a  bishop, 
is  a  town  of  10,000  inhab.,  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Minho 
and  surrounded  by  hills.  The  Romans  named  it  Aquae  Vrentes  be- 
cause of  its  hot  springs.  Orense  was  the  capital  of  the  Suevi  in  t^ 


492  BouU63,  ORENSE.  From  MonforU 

6-7th  cent ;  In  716  it  was  destroyed  by  the  Moors  and  in  884  it  was  re- 
bailtby  Alfonso  III.  Since  the  16th  cent,  it  has  been  of  no  importance. 

The  Catubdral,  built  in  the  Gothic  style  in  12^20,  was  much 
injured  by  war  and  earthquake  and  underwent  an  unintelligent 
restoration  in  the  16-17th  centuries.   Only  a  few  fragments  are  left 
of  the  elaborate  decoration  of  the  main  front    There  are  good  por- 
tals on  the  N.,  W.,  and  S.  sides;  over  the  first  is  a  Pietli  in  relief 
(I5th  cent.).  The  porch  (elParaiso)  has  a  certain  resemblance  to  the 
Portico  de  la  Gloria  at  Santiago  (p.  498),  but  is  disfigured  by  later 
additions,  the  insertion  of  altars,  and  tastelessly  restored  paintings. 
The  lantern  over  the  crossing  is  by  Rodrigo  de  Badajoz  (15tb  cent). 
The  choir-stalls  are  by  Diego  de  Soils  and  Juan  de  Anges  (16th 
cent.),  the  adjoining  screen  is  by  Oelma.    The  presbytery  is  en- 
closed by  a  plateresque  reja,  with  an  equestrian  relief  of  St.  Martin 
and  numerous  figures  and  coats-of-arms.  In  the  left  transept  is  the 
tomb  of  Bishop  Vasco  Marina.   The  Gothic  retablo,  in  the  capilla 
mayor,  has  scenes  from  the  life  of  Christ  and  the  Virgin.    Here, 
too,  are  a  silver  tabernacle  of  the  17th  cent  and  (right)  the  tomb 
of  an  unknown  prelate,  with  a  representation  of  the  Last  Judgment 
(14th  cent.).    In  the  Capilla  del  Divino  Cristo  is  a  Byzantine  cru- 
cifix, which  is  traditionally  ascribed  to  Nicodemns  and  is  said  to 
have  been  stranded  on  the  coast  of  Galicia  in  1330.    On  Corpus 
Christi  Day  demons  are  exorcised  in  front  of  it    The  silver  pro- 
cessional cross  in  the  sacristy  is  ascribed  to  the  elder  Arfe  (p.  Iv). 

In  the  Calle  del  Instltuto  is  a  bronze  statue,  by  J.  Sole'r  (1887), 
of  Fray  Benito  Jeronimo  Feyjoo  (1676-1764),  a  Benedictine  monk 
bom  at  Orense ,  who  made  a  name  for  himself  as  a  scholar  and 
critic.  —  The  bridge  over  the  Minho  (400  yds.  long)  was  built  by 
Bishop  Lorenzo  in  1230,  but  has  since  been  repeatedly  restored. 
The  midmost  of  the  seven  arches  is  125  ft  in  height,  140  ft.  in  span. 

The  hot  sulphur  springs  of  Las  Burgas  (150-155°  Fahr.),  at  the 
foot  of  the  hill  on  which  the  town  lies,  fiow  at  the  rate  of  about 
30  gallons  per  minute ;  the  water  is  singularly  clear  and  almost 
devoid  of  smell.  —  An  omnibus  plies  regularly  to  the  small  mineral 
baths  of  (1 1/4  M.)  Caldas  de  Orente. 

Beyond  Orense  the  train  runs  to  the  S.W.  along  the  Minho, 
traversing  the  so-called  granary  of  Galicia.  In  the  background  rise 
the  hills  of  Benama.  -—  37V2  M.  Barbantes;  46  M.  Rhaddvia^  the 
second  town  of  the  province  (2100  inhab.),  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Avia  with  the  Minho ;  53  M.  Filgueira,  a  watering-place  with  springs 
impregnated  with  sulphur,  iron,  and  soda.  —  We  enjoy  fine  views 
of  the  wild  and  wood-clad  gorges  of  the  Minho.  In  the  ravine 
named  Pases  de  San  Gregorio^  on  the  left  (Portuguese)  bank  of  the 
Minho,  is  the  waterfall  of  Barja.  —  591/2  M.  Frieira;  63  M.  Pmaa; 
671/2  M.  i4r6rf,  celebrated  for  its  salmon-fishing ;  75  M.  Las  Nieves. 
—  791/2  M.  Salvatierra^  the  chief  place  in  the  wine-growing  district 


to  Santiago.  VIGO.  &3,  BouU,   493 

of  that  name,  lies  on  the  Alcahre,  Like  Mon^ao,  on  the  Foicuguese 
side  of  the  Minho,  it  is  surrounded  by  mediseval  walls.  — -  Wo  cross 
the  Alcabre.  84^/2  M.  Calddas,  a  frequented  watering-place.  The 
train  now  leaves  the  course  of  the  Minho  and  turns  to  the  N.W. 

88 M.  Gmllarey  is  the  junction  of  a  branch  to  Yalen^a  do  Minho, 
where  it  joins  the  Portuguese  railway  for  Oporto  and  Lisbon  (R.65). 

Fbom  Quillaret  to  Valen^a  po  Minho,  3  M.,  two  trains  daily  in 
V2  hr.  (fares  90,  70,  40  c). 

2  M.  Tuy  (Fonda  de  boHa  Carmen^  unpretending^  omn.  at  the  station), 
the  see  of  a  bishop,  with  28t)0  inhab.,  picturesquely  situated  on  a  hill 
rising  over  the  Minho,  was  the  Roman  Castellum  Tude.  At  the  beginning 
of  the  8th  cent,  it  was  the  capital  of  Witiza,  King  of  the  Visigoths,  and 
after  various  vicissitudes  it  was  finally  recaptured  from  the  Moors  by 
Alfonso  VII.  in  the  12th  century.  In  the  wars  between  Castile  and  Portugal 
this  strongly  fortified  place  played  a  prominent  part.  The  CatTiedraL  a 
sombre,  fortress-like  edifice  of  the  12th  cent.,  was  rebuilt  in  the  15-loth  ' 
centuries.  The  portals  are  interesting,  and  many  of  the  chapels  are  fenced 
in  by  fine  Renaissance  parcloses.  The  Capilla  de  Santa  Catalina  contains 
a  Descent  from  the  Cross  of  the  i8th  century.  The  cloisters  (14th  cent.) 
are  sadly  dilapidated. 

The  train  crosses  the  Minho  (1090  ft.)  by  an  imposing  iron  bridge 
constructed  in  18S5. 

3  M.   Valenga  do  Minho,  the  Portuguese  frontier-station,  see  p.  584. 

From  (94  M.)  Porrino  omnibuses  run  to  MondariZy  a  much- 
frequented  watering-place.  We  thread  the  tunnel  of  Valos  and  sweep 
round  to  the  viaduct  of  (104  M.)  Redondela^  traversing  an  attractive 
landscape  and  enjoying  a  distant  view  of  the  Bay  of  Vigo. 

Ill  M.  Vigo.  —  The  Railway  Station  (Restaurant)  lies  8/4  M.  to  the 
W.  of  the  town.    Omnibuses  meet  the  trains. 

Hotela.  Continental,  Plaza  Eduayen,  with  view  of  the  seaj  Eubopa, 
Calle  del  Principe,  pens,  from  7  p.  —  Oafis.  Cafi  Buizo,  Calle  del  Prin- 
cipe;  Cafi  Mendef  Nunez ^   Puerta  del  Sol. 

Foat  &  Telegraph  Office,  Calle  Velazquez  Moreno.  —  Theatre :  Teatro 
Tambei'lick,  Calle  del  Circo. 

Physicians.  Ewique  Lcmz6$,  at  the  Continental  Hotel;  Candido  Lemos, 
Plaza  de  la  Constitucion.  —  Sea  Baths,  Play  a  de  San  Francisco. 

Bookseller :  Eugenio  Krapf,  Calle  Policarpo  Sanz,  near  the  post-office. 
—  Photographs:  fei/pe  Prd^eri,  Calle  del  Principe. 

Banks.  Bank  of  Spain,  Calle  del  Arenal  \  Estanislao  Duran  (agent  for 
Vogel  &  Co..  Madrid),  Calle  del  Principe  iJ/^a»»««/  Bdrcena  Franco  (agent 
of  the  Credit  Lyonnais},  Calle  Real.  —  lEoney  Changer:  Fisdro  Roman, 
Calle  Imperial. 

Consuls.  British  Vice -Consul,  Manuel  Bdrcena  Franco  (also  Lloyd's 
agent),  see  above;  United  States,  Camilo  MoUne. 

Steamers  to  Corunna,  Carril,  Oijdn,  and  Santander  twice  weekly  (Spanish 
lines);  to  Southampton  every  fortnight  (Royal  Mail  Steam  Packet  Co.);  to 
La  Rochelle  and  Liverpool  every  fortnight  (Pacific  Steam  Navigation  Co.) ; 
to  Southampton,  Antwerp,  and  Bremen,  once  or  twice  a  month  (North  German 
Lloyd) ;  to  Hamburg  fortnightly  (Hamburg  and  S.  America  Steam  Packet  Co.) ; 
to  Bordeaux^  once  or  twice  a  month  (Messageries  Maritimes). 

Small  Boats  for  hire;  no  tariff,  bargaining  necessary. 

Vigo,  an  important  commercial  town  and  seaport  with  15,000 
inhab.,  is  picturesquely  situated  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  Ria  de  Vigo 
and  on  the  N.W.  slope  of  a  hill,  crowned  by  the  Caatillo  del  Castro 
and  surrounded  by  higher  mountains.  It  is  much  visited  for  its 
excellent  sea-bathing,  and  the  climate  is  said  to  be  admirable.  — 
In  the  beginning  of  the  War  of  the  Spanish  Succession  (Oct.  22nd 


494  MoyU53,  PONTEVLDRA. 

1702)  an  AngL<Hl>utch  fleet  under  Admirals  Booke  end  SUnhope 
ettecked  the  Spenisli  'bilver  Fleet'  in  the  herboni  of  Vi^,  captoied 
much  of  the  treasure,  and  sank  many  of  the  Spanish  vessels. 

The  older  parts  of  the  town,  to  the  N.  and  W.,  are  crowded  and 
irregular,  the  streets  generally  steep  and  paved  with  granite.  The 
Utverahan  presents  a  stirring  picture  daring  the  time  of  the  fish- 
market.  The  CaUe  Beal^  ascending  to  the  church  of  8ania  Maria, 
was  once  the  main  street  of  Vigo.  Adjacent  is  the  PUuta  de  la 
ContiUueif/n^  with  the  town-hall. 

The  chief  scenes  of  activity  in  the  modern  quarter  to  the  £. 
are  the  CalU  del  Pr'meipt  and  the  OalU  del  Arenal,  the  latter  run- 
ning along  the  harbour.  The  attractive  Aiamtda  contains  a  mon- 
ument to  Admiral  Mende*  Nunaif  by  A.  Querol,  erected  in  1690.  At 
the  point  where  the  Galle  del  Garral  reaches  the  harbour  is  another 
monument,  by  the  same  artist  (1896  j,  to  J.  Eldaayen,  late  finance 
minister  of  Spain.  —  The  Plata  de  la  Piedra  (or  de  Villavicencio), 
adjoining  the  harbour  on  the  N.E.,  affords  a  fine  view  of  the  har- 
bour, the  bay,  the  Islas  Cies,  and  the  villages  of  Caiigas,  Meira, 
and  Damayo  on  the  N.  bank.  A  similar  view  is  enjoyed  from  the 
CaatiUo  del  Caeito,  to  the  S.;  but  permission  to  enter  the  fort  must 
be  obtained  from  the  commandant. 

Exoimloiis.  Br  Sailino  Boat.  To  the  Itlat  de  Ciet  (Insulae  Siccae), 
at  the  mouth  of  the  harboar.  —  Br  Carriage.  1.  To  (13  M.)  Bayona 
(Fonda  de  la  Palma)y  charmingly  situated  on  the  coast,  with  an  interest- 
ing collegiate  church  of  the  12th  cent,  and  the  Castillo  de  Montereal  (Itith 
cent.).  2.  To  San  Fayo  (Fonda  del  Italiano),  on  the  Bia,  12  M.  to  the  £. 
—  Br  RaiLWAr.  1.  To  Tuy  (p.  493),  one  train  daily  in  2V4  hrs.  (fares  4  p. 
66,  3  p.  50,  2  p.  10  c).  2.  To  (16  M.)  Porrtio  (p.  4b3)  two  trains  daily  in 
ihr.  (fares  3  p.,  2  p.  25,  Ip.  40  c.).  Thence  we  may  drive,  via  Fuente 
Areas,  to  (12  H.)  the  prettily  situated  watering-place  of  Mondariz  (Fonda 
de  Enrique  Peinador).    8.  To  Fontevedra  (see  below  and  p.  491). 

The  Railway  p&om  Yioo  to  Pontbtbd&a  diverges  from  the 
line  to  Monforte  at  (7  M.)  Redondela  (p.  498)  and  then  runs  via 
(121/2  M.)  Arcade  and  (16  M.)  ligueirido. 

19  M.  Fonteyedra  (^Hot,  Mendez  Nunez ^  indifferent,  pens. 
5-6  fr.),  the  Roman  Pons  Vetus  or  Duo  Ponies  and  the  capital  of  a 
modern  province,  is  a  town  of  blOOiubab.,  charmingly  situated  at 
the  head  of  the  Hia  de  Pontevedra^  in  the  delta  of  the  Lerezy  Alba^  and 
Tomtza,  It  is  still  partly  enclosed  by  the  old  walls.  The  Gothic 
church  oi'  Santa  Maria  Mayor  has  a  facade  of  the  16th  century.  The 
former  conventual  church  of  San  Francisco  contains  the  tombs  of 
Adm.  Gomez  Charino  and  his  wife.  In  the  Alameda^  to  the  W.  of 
the  town,  are  the  Casa  Consistorialj  the  JDiputacion  H'ovincial  (two 
Imposing  buildings),  and  the  remains  of  the  convent  of  Santo  Bo- 
mingo^  which  was  occupied  by  the  French  in  1809  and  stormed  by 
the  peasants  of  the  neighbourhood.  The  Alameda  also  affords  a 
good  distant  view  of  the  little  port  of  Marin  (steam-tramway).  The 
church  of  La  Peregrina,  \^ith  an  elegant  favade  and  slender  towers, 
dates  from  the  last  century. 


DE   COMPOSTELA 

im.  i>.»t  ^co         fc««  Ui^laM>« 


I 


ll^rapli,  AtistaUT 


SANTIAGO  DE  COMPOSTELA.      53,  RouU,   495 

F&oM  PoNTEVBDBA  TO  Cabeil,  17  M.  The  diligence  (see  p.  491) 
starts  at  the  H6t  Mendez  Nufiez.  —  The  small  port  of  Carril  (Brit. 
Yice-Gonsul)  lies  on  the  Bdy  ofArosa,  In  the  vicinity  are  the  warm 
sulphur  haths  (90-140^  Fahr.)  of  Caldaa  de  Reyes  and  Caldas  de 
CutUia  and  the  popular  sea-bathing  resort  of  VUlagarefa. 

From  Gabbil  to  Santiago,  26  M.  The  railway  (see  p.  491)  passes 
(5  M.)  Catoka  and  (11  M.)  Ceaurea  (Pons  Cffisaris),  where  the  UUa 
is  spanned  by  an  imposing  Roman  bridge.  —  I2V4  M.  Padrdn^  the 
Roman  Iria  Flavia,  at  the  confluence  of  the  8ar  and  the  Ulla. 
At  (151/2  M.)  EsclavUud  is  the  pilgrimage-church  of  Nueatra  Senora 
de  la  EadavUud,  formerly  a  widely  known  asylum  for  criminals  and 
containing  numerous  votive  offerings  of  their  gratitude. — 191/2  M. 
Oaebe;  22^/2  M.  Caaal.  We  pass  the  lunatic  asylum  of  Conjo, 

25  M.  (172  M.  from  Monforte)  Santiago  dc  Compoatela.  The 
rail,  station  (restaurant)  lies  1  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  the  town.  Omni- 
buses only  to  the  Despacho  Central  or  to  the  FerrocaTfilana  (see 
below).    Luggage  is  taken  in  charge  by  the  hotel-porters. 


Santiago  de  Gompostela.  —  Hotel.  Fonda  Suiea^  Plaza  del  Insti- 
tute, pens,  from  7  p.  —  Oafii.  Cafi  Svito^  Rua  Kueva ;  0.  Iberia^  Rua 
del  Villar ;  C.  Etpanol^  Calle  de  las  Hu^rfanas. 

Post  ft  Telegraph  Office,  Plaza  de  los  Literarios.  —  Biligence  (£a 
Ferrocarrilana,  Calle  Hu<5rfanas  40)  to  GoTunna,  40  M.,  twice  daily  in 
V/i  hrs.  (fares  12  p.  50  c,  10  p.,  7  p.  50  c).  Places  must  be  taken  in  advance. 
—  Detpacho  Central  (p.  xvi),  Calle  del  Toral. 

Booksellers,  Rua  del  Villar  14,  23,  and  46.  —  Photographs :  Rua  del 
ViUar  50  and  70. 

Santiago  de  Compostela  (1948  ft.),  the  see  of  a  Metropolitan 
Archbishop,  seat  of  a  .  university,  and  formerly  the  capital  of 
Galicia,  is  a  town  of  14,700  inhab.,  situated  on  a  hilly  plateau 
surrounded  by  mountains,  on  the  slope  of  the  Monle  Pedroao  and 
near  the  confluence  of  the  Sar  and  the  Sarela.  The  foundation  of 
the  town  is  connected  with  the  story  of  the  discovery  of  the  body  of 
St.  Jamea  the  Greater.  According  to  the  pious  legend,  the  remains 
of  the  Apostle,  after  he  had  been  beheaded  in  Judsea  (Acts,  xii.  2), 
were  brought  to  Spain,  whfere  their  whereabouts  was  soon  for- 
gotten till,  in  the  9th  cent.,  a  brilliant  star  pointed  out  the  spot 
(^campus  stellffi')  to  Bishop  Theodomir  of  Iria.  The  tradition  that 
the  Apostle  James  had  preached  the  Gospel  in  Spain  was  current 
at  least  as  early  as  the  7th  cent,  and  the  belief  in  this  patron-saint 
soon  became  so  firmly  grounded  that  he  was  frequently  seen,  clad 
in  gleaming  armour,  helping  the  Christians  in  their  battles  with 
the  Moors.  The  earliest  sanctuary  over  the  grave,  which  was  erected 
by  Alfonso  I.  and  enlarged  by  Alfonso  III.,  was  wholly  destroyed 
by  the  Moors  under  Almansor  in  997.  After  its  re-erection  the 
church  acquired  an  extraordinary  reputation,  and  thousands  of  pil- 
grims streamed  to  it  every  year.  The  vast  number  of  pilgrims  gave 
rise  to  the  popular  name  for  the  Milky  Way  —  viz.  'El  Caminr 


496  RouU  53.     SANTIAGO  DK  OOMPOSTELA.     CaUiedral. 

de  Santiago".  E^en  now  Santiago  is  one  of  the  most  frequented 
pilgrim-resorts  in  Christendom.  It  contains  no  fewer  than  46  ecclesi- 
astical edifices,  with  288  altars,  114  bells,  and  36  pious  fraternities. 

On  the  E.  side  of  the  Plaza  Alfokso  Docb  (or  del  Hospital ; 
PI.  B,  3)  rises  the  ^Cathedral  (PI.  B,  3),  the  most  important  mon- 
ument of  the  early-Romanesque  style  in  Spain  (comp.  p.  xlii).  Tlie 
building  of  the  present  church  began  in  1078  or  1082  under  Bishop 
Diego  Primeiro  Pelaet,  was  zealously  furthered  by  the  first  arch- 
bishop, Diego  Stgundo  OHmiret  (1100-1130),  and  went  on  during 
the  whole  of  the  12th  century.  The  consecration  took  place  in  1211. 
The  exterior  underwent  such  sweeping  alterations  in  the  16th  and 
18th  cent. ,  that  Its  general  aspect  is  now  that  of  a  picturesque  ba- 
roque structure.  —  The  ground-plan  of  the  church  is  that  of  a  Latin 
cross.  The  nave  and  aisles  are  intersected  by  an  aisled  transept 
with  a  domed  tower  over  the  crossing;  the  choir  has  a  semicircular 
ending,  with  an  ambulatory  and  five  chapels.  The  whole  arrange- 
ment is  so  similar  to  that  of  St.  Semin  of  Toulouse,  that  it  is  im- 
possible to  doubt  that  it  is  due  to  French  architects.  The  total 
length  of  the  building  is  308  ft.,  that  of  the  transepts  207ft. ;  the 
nave  is  78ft.  high,  the  aisles  23  ft.,  the  dome  108ft.  The  building 
material  is  mainly  granite. 

The  W.  Facade,  known  as  El  Obradoiro,  was  erected  by  Fer- 
nando Ccuae  y  Novoa  in  1738  and  is  in  the  most  extravagant  ba- 
roque style.  The  wide  flight  of  steps  in  front  of  it,  arranged  iu 
four  sections,  is  admirably  adapted  for  processional  purposes.  The 
huge  gable  is  flanked  by  two  towers,  each  230  ft.  high  and  resting 
on  Romanesque  foundations.  The  portal,  above  which  is  a  statue 
of  St.  James,  is  opened  only  for  the  passage  of  the  very  highest 
secular  and  ecclesiastical  dignitaries.  — >  The  Azabacherfa,  or  N. 
Fbont  of  the  transept,  facing  the  Plazuela  de  la  Fuente  de  San 
Juan,  is  a  work  of  the  insipid  archaistic  tendency  of  the  second  half 
of  the  18th  cent.  •,  its  architect  was  Ventura  Rodriguez  (d.  1786). 
Between  the  middle  windows  of  the  principal  stage  is  an  allegorical 
figure  of  Faith ;  over  the  attic  is  a  group  representing  Ordofio  II. 
and  Alfonso  III.  kneeling  before  St.  James.  —  On  the  E.  Side 
of  the  choir,  towards  the  Plaza  de  los  Llterarios ,  is  the  Puerto 
Santa,  a  portal  of  the  18th  cent.,  opened  only  in  the  year  of  jubilee. 
The  statues  with  which  it  is  adorned  belonged  to  an  earlier  door, 
now  destroyed ;  over  the  door  are  modern  statues  of  SS.  James, 
Athanasius,  and  Theodore.  —  The  S.  Feont  of  the  transept,  the 
Puerta  de  Platerias,  facing  the  Plazuela  de  las  Platerias,  dates  back 
to  the  beginning  of  the  12th  cent.  (1116?).  It  has  richly  adorned 
portals  and  deeply  recessed  windows.  In  ^e  spandrels  of  the  two 
doorways  are  reliefs  of  the  Temptation  (left)  and  the  Passion  (right). 
On  the  wall  above  is  Jesus  Christ,  surrounded  by  Apostles,  Prophets, 
and  Saints.  Some  of  these  figures  are  of  still  earlier  date  than  the 
facade  they  now  adorn.    The  Torre  de  la  Trinidad  (262ft.),  which 


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SANTIAGO  DE  COMPOSTELA.     53.  Route.   497 

rises  to  the  right,  is  old  only  in  its  lower  part;  the  upper  stages 
were  completed  by  Domingo  Andrade  in  1680  (ascent  worth  mak- 
ing in  good  weather).  To  the  left  runs  the  outerwall  of  the  cloisters, 
with  picturesque  turrets  at  the  angles.  —  The  upper  part  of  the 
Central  Tower  dates  from  the  18th  century. 

The  Intbrioe  of  the  cathedral  is  very  impressive,  especially  in 
entering  it  by  the  Puerta  de  Platerias.  The  nave  has  a  waggon 
vault  and  is  separated  from  the  aisles  by  pillars  standing  at  small 
intervals.  The  aisles  have  quadripartite  vaulting,  and  above  them 
is  a  fine  triforium  -  gallery ,  opening  on  the  nave  and  running 
round  the  whole  church.  The  most  imposing  view  of  the  in- 
terior is  obtained  from  the  transept.  The  choir-stalls  are  by  Juan 
de  VUa  f  1606),  the  organs  by  Manuel  Sanz  and  Gregorio  Gonzalez 
(1708-T7).  On  the  W.  wall  of  the  S.  transept  is  an  old  relief  of 
St.  Jame$  on  Horseback.  Below  the  crossing  hangs  a  huge  censer 
(el  botafumeiro),  about  6  ft.  high,  which  is  swung  from  side  to  side 
by  an  iron  chain. 

The  Capilla  Mayer  stands  immediately  over  the  grave  of  the 
Apostle.  The  retablo  of  the  high-altar,  a  tall  erection  of  jasper, 
alabaster,  and  silver,  with  numerous  figures,  is  an  extravagant 
example  of  the  Churrigueresque  style  (1672).  The  altar  itself  was 
made  by  Figuera  in  1716  out  of  a  mass  of  silver  weighing  1100 lbs. 
The  silver  lamps  and  candelabra  date  from  the  18th  century. 
In  a  niche  above  the  altar  is  a  seated  figure  of  St.  James,  freely 
adorned  with  silver,  gold,  and  precious  stones.  To  the  right  and 
left  are  two  bronze  pulpits,  with  gilt  reliefs  by  Juan  Celma  (1563). 
—  A  side -staircase  descends  to  the  Crypt,  containing  the  graves  of 
the  Apostle  and  two  of  his  disciples.  The  silver  shrine  for  the 
bones  of  the  saint  is  modern. 

The  contents  of  the  chapels  fringing  the  apse  and  transept  are 
mainly  sculptures  and  retablos.  The  most  interesting  monuments 
are  that  of  Diego  de  Castilla  (1521),  in  the  CapUla  de  San  Bar- 
tolom6  (PI.  6),  and  those  of  Card.  Pedro  Varela  (1574),  Juan 
Mergalejo  (1534),  and  Francisco  Pefia  and  his  wife  (14th  cent.),  in 
the  CapiUa  del  Espiritu  Santo  (PI.  8). 

The  Capilla  de  la  Corticela  or  Parroqufa,  said  to  date  from  the 
10th  cent,  consists  of  nave  and  aisles,  with  a  rectangular  apse.  Its 
Romanesque  W.  portal  has  shafts  in  the  jambs  and  carved  capitals. 
The  vault  of  the  chapel  and  the  passage  connecting  it  with  the 
transept  of  the  cathedral  are  modern. 

In  the  Cap.  del  San'o  Cristo  de  Burgos  (PL  12)  is  the  tomb  of 
Archbp.  Pedro  Carrillo  (d.  1667).  The  reliefs  of  the  side-altar  to 
the  right  in  the  Cap.  de  San  Fernando  (PI.  15)  represent  scenes 
from  the  life  and  martyrdom  of  St.  James  (15-16th  cent.).  —  The 
Cap.  de  las  Reliquias  (PI.  16;  open  only  up  to  9  a.m.)  contains  the 
tombs  ofDofiaBerenguela  (wife  of  Alfonso  VI.),  Ferdinand  II.  and 
Alfonso  IX.  of  Leon,  Juana  de  Castro  (wife  of  Pedro  the  Cruel),  and 

Ba£D£K£b'b  Spain  and  Portugal.  32 


49S   Route  53.     SANTIAGO  PE  COMPOSTKLA. 

other  royalties.    The  baroque  retablo,  wtth  figures  of  the  Virtues, 
Is  by  Bernardo  Cabrera  (1633). 

Among  the  reliquariea  and  other  Talaables  are  the  <V«?  de  At/onto 
Tereero^  similar  to  the  Cruz  de  los  Angeles  at  Oviedo,  probably  an  old 
Moorish  seal  converted  into  a  crucifix^  Chaiiee  and  Pattern  of  St.  Rosendtu 
(15tta  cent.);  Reliqutny^  with  a  thorn  from  the  Crown  of  Thorns  (15th 
cent.);  silver-gilt  *Oustodla  by  Juan  de  Arfe  (1564 ;  seep.  Iv);  skull  of  St. 
Jarnes  Alphaemt^  with  a  silver  case  in  the  form  of  a  skull  (14th  cent.); 
phial  of  the  Yirgin^s  milk. 

Immediately  behind  the  W.  portal  (El  Obradoiro ;  see  p.  496) 
rises  the  so-called  *Pobtico  db  la  Glo&ia,  completed  by  Maestre 
Mateo  in  1188  after  20  years*  work  and  pronounced  by  Mr.  Street 
*one  of  the  greatest  glories  of  Christian  art'.t  This  consists  of 
a  yesttbnle  or  porch,  extending  across  the  entire  width  of  the 
nave  and  dirided  into  three  corresponding  sections.  It  is  roofed 
with  quadripartite  vaulting  and  adorned  with  the  most  elaborate 
sculpture.  A  superb  double  doorway,  with  numerous  stataes, 
opens  on  the  nave,  while  smaller  but  equally  ornate  doorways 
lead  into  the  aisles.  On  the  shaft  dividing  the  central  doorway 
into  two  is  a  seated  figure  of  St.  James,  holding  the  bordon  or 
palmer's  staff. 

The  shaft  Itself  Is  adorned  with  exquisitely  delicate  carving  of 
the  tree  of  Jesse.  The  main  capital  above  the  statue  represents 
the  Temptation  in  the  Garden  and  Angels  ministering  to  Christ. 
The  shafts  in  the  jambs  of  the  main  portal  and  the  side-doorways 
are  adorned  with  figures  of  Apostles  and  Major  Prophets.  In  the 
tympanum  of  the  central  door  is  a  seated  figure  of  Our  Lord,  with 
upraised  hands.  Around  him  are  the  Evangelists  and  eight  angels 
with  the  instruments  of  the  Passion,  while  above  are  42  figures  of 
the  worshipping  elect.  The  archivolt  shows  figures  of  the  24  Elders 
of  the  Apocalypse.  The  general  idea  of  the  whole  doorway  is  the 
Appearance  of  Christ  at  the  Last  Judgment.  Above  the  side-doors 
are  representations  of  Purgatory  (left)  and  Hell  (right).  Some  traces 
of  painting  are  still  visible.  At  the  back  of  the  middle  pillar  of 
the  main  portal  is  a  kneeling  figure,  supposed  to  be  a  portrait  of 
Master  Matthew  himself. 

The  *Cloi8tbbs  were  built  by  Archbp.  Fonseca  in  1521-46  in 
the  Gothic  style,  with  ornamental  details  borrowed  from  the  Re- 
naissance. They  are  among  the  largest  and  most  beautiful  in  Spain. 
The  walks  are  115  ft.  long  and  19  ft.  wide.  —  Adjoining  the  cloisters 
is  the  Sala  Capitular^  the  .walls  of  which  are  hung  with  tapestry. 
In  the  altar-recess  are  the  Conversion  of  St.  Paul  and  the  Treachery 
of  Judas,  two  small  pictures  ascribed  to  Murillo.  The  botafumeiro 
mentioned  at  p.  497  is  kept  here  when  not  in  use. 

The  IgUsia  Bdja  (entr.,  PI.  16),  or  lower  church,  under  the 
Portico  de  la  Gloria,  dates  from  the  12th  century.    It  consists  of 


t  There  is  a  plaster  cast  of  this  noble  porch  in  South  Kensington 
Museum. 


SANTIAGO  BE  COMPOSTELA.     53.  limte.    499 

nare,  transept,  and  apse,  the  last  with  recesses  for  five  altars.  The 
vaulting  is  supported  by  piers  with  clustered  shafts. 

In  addition  to  the  Cathedral  the  Plaza  de  Alfonso  Doce  (see  p.  496) 
is  adjoined  by  several  other  imposing  buildings.  Adjoining  the 
cathedral  is  the  Archiepiscopal  Palace.  —  To  the  N.  is  the  HoS" 
pital  Real,  founded  in  1489  by  the  ^Catholic  Kings'  and  erected 
in  1501-10  by  Enriqne  de  Egas  (pp.  1,  lii).  The  entrance  and  the 
two  S.  courts  (in  the  Renaissance  style)  demand  attention.  The 
crossing-piers  of  the  chapel  are  elaborately  sculptured,  and  the  fine 
screens  are  by  Maestro  .Gnilltfn  (1666).  —  To  the  S.W.  is  the 
Palacto  Consistorial,  built  by  Archbp.  Bartolom^  Rajoy  in  1766-72 
and  now  occupied  by  the  mnnicipal  and  judicial  authorities.  In 
the  central  tympanum  is  a  representation  of  the  mythical  battle  of 
Clavijo  (844),  above  which  is  an  equestrian  statue  of  St.  James.  — 
To  the  S.  is  the  Colegio  San  Jeronimo,  now  a  normal  school,  with  a 
portal  of  the  15-16th  centuries. 

In  the  Plaza  Fuente  de  San  Juan,  opposite  the  N.  transept  of 
the  cathedral,  stands  the  convent  of  San  Martin  Pinario  (PI.  B,  3), 
now  a  seminary.  The  facade  of  the  convent  was  begun  by  Mateo 
Lopez  in  1690.  The  handsome  patlo  and  the  church  (to  the  N.E.) 
were  completed  by  Antonio  Gonzalez  In  1646.  The  most  noticeable 
features  in  the  latter  are  the  choir-stalls  by  Fernando  de  Prado  and 
the  Altar  of  St.  Escolastica,  in  the  Capilla  del  Rosario  (right),  with 
wood-carvings  by  Ferreiro  (1737). 

To  the  N.W.  is  the  Gonyent  of  San  Francisco  (PI.  B,  2),  the 
largest  building  in  Santiago  after  the  cathedral.  It  dates  originally 
from  the  12th  cent.,  but  both  convent  and  church  were  wholly 
rebuilt  in  the  16-17th  centuries.  Above  the  church-door  is  a  statue 
of  St.  Francis,  by  Ferreiro.  In  the  gatehouse  of  the  convent  is  the 
tomb  of  Cotolay,  founder  of  the  convent  (13th  cent.).  The  cloisters, 
dating  mainly  from  1613,  incorporate  a  few  fragments  of  the  orig- 
inal structure. 

The  Colegio  Foneeca  (PI.  B,  3,  4),  to  the  S.  of  the  Plaza  de  Al- 
fonso XII.,  was  erected  in  1644  and  is  now  occupied  by  the  medical 
faculty  of  the  university.  Its  most  interesting  features  are  the  Re- 
naissance portal  by  Alava,  the  beautiful  patio,  and  the  artesonado 
ceiling  of  the  Sal6n  de  Actos  (groundfloor,  to  the  left). 

The  Rtja  dbl  Villab  (PI.  B,  4),  with  arcades  on  the  groundfloor 
of  the  houses,  is  the  chief  business-street  of  Santiago.  —  In  the 
RuA  Ntjibva  (PI.  B,  C,  4),  which  runs  parallel  with  it,  are  the 
Theatre  (1841)  and  the  church  of  Santa  Maria  Salomi,  founded  by 
Archbp.  Galmirez  in  the  12th  cent.,  with  a  Romanesque  portal,  a 
Gothic  atrium,  and  a  16th  cent,  belftry.  —  Not  far  off  is  the  TTni- 
versity  (PI.  0,  4),  built  at  the  end  of  the  18th  cent,  by  Josi  Man- 
chado.  It  contains  good  scientific  collections  and  a  fair  library.  To 
the  N.  lies  the  Market  (^Plaza  de  Ahastos^  PI.  0,  3),  which  should  be 
visited*  on  Thursday.  —  In  the  Alameda  (PI.  A,  B,  4^  6)  is  the 

32* 


500   Route  53.     SANTIAGO  DE  COMPOSTELA. 

monument  of  Admiral  Mendez  'Nufiez,  by  Jnan  Sanmartin  y  Serna, 
erected  in  1885. 

Some  of  the  churches  on  the  outskirts  of  the  town  also  deserve 
mention.  Santa  Suaana  (PI.  A,  4),  dating  from  1105  and  situated 
in  the  so-called  Htrradwra^  commands  a  fine  view  to  the  E.  of  the 
cathedral,  the  town,  and  the  Pico  Sacro.  —  San  Lorenzo^  lying  in 
an  oak-grove,  IV4  M.  from  the  Barrio  de  San  Lorenzo  de  Afuera 
(PL  A,  3),  dates  Arom  1216  and  is  now  the  private  property  of  the 
Duke  of  Medina  Torres.  Its  most  noticeable  featnres  are  the  Re- 
naissance altar  of  Carrara  marble,  the  fine  :nrood-carving  by  Martinez 
Montafies  (p.  lix),  and  the  handsome  monuments  of  the  Marquis 
and  Marchioness  of  Ayamonte  (d.  1625).  The  decorative  boxwood 
figures  of  the  cloisters  (monograms,  escutcheons,  crosses,  etc.) 
date  from  the  beginning  of  the  18th  century.  —  The  highly  inter- 
esting church  ot  Santa  Mafia  de  Sar  {V\.  D,  6),  in  the  Barrio  de  Sar 
de  Afuera,  of  the  12th  cent.,  has  a  partly  preserved  cloister,  and 
is  supposed  to  be  the  work  of  Maestre  Mateo. 

The  environs  of  the  town  are  very  picturesque.  Excursions 
may  be  made  to  the  Monte  Pedroso  (2410  ft.),  Monte  AUamira^  Pico 
Sacro  (2250  ft.),  and  Mofiie  Santa  Marina,  all  affording  good  views. 
Some  kind  of  a  guide  is  necessary. 


PORTUGAL. 


54.  From  Badajoz  to  Lisbon  via  Torre  das  Vargens  and  En- 
troncamento 609 

From  Abrantes  to  Ouarda,  511.  —  From  Carregado  to  Galdas 
da  Bainha,  513. 

55.  Liibon 514 

a.  Cidade  Baixa,  Lisboa  Occidental,  and  Buenos  Ayres  520 

b.  Lisboa  Oriental 527 

c.  The  Streets  bordering  the  Tagus  (from  E.  to  W.)  .   530 

d.  Ajuda  and  Belem 534 

56.  Environs  of  Lisbon 539 

a.  Lumiar  and  Odivellas 539 

b.  Cacilhas      540 

c.  Estoril  and  Cascaes 540 

d.  Cintra 541 

57.  From  Lisbon  to  Evora  and  Estremoz 546 

From  Plnhal  Novo  to  Palmella  and  Setubal,  546. 

58.  From  Lisbon  to  Beja  and  Faro 548 

59.  From  Lisbon  to  Alfarellos  (CJoimbra)  via  Mafra,  Vallado, 

and  Leirfa 549 

From  Obidos  to  the  Lago  d'Obidoa  and  to  Peniche,  551. 
—  From  Vallado  to  Nazareth,  652. 

60.  From  Vallado  to  Leirfa  via  Aicoba^a  and  Batalha    .    .   553 

61.  From  Lisbon  to  Oporto  via  Entroncamento,  Alfarellos, 
Goimbra,  and  Pampilhosa 560 

62.  Coimbra 565 

63.  From  Pampilhosa  to  Villar  Formoso  (Salamanca,  Medina 

del  Gampo)  via  Guarda 571 

64.  Oporto 573 

a.  The  W.  Quarters  of  the  City,  576.  —  b.  The  E.  Quarters 
of  the  City.  The  S.  Bank  of  the  Douro,  680.  —  c.  West- 
ern Environs  of  Oporto ,  582.  —  From  Oporto  to  P6voa 
de  Varzim,  583. 

65.  From  Oporto  to  Braga 583 

From  Tropa  to  Guimaraes,  584. 

66.  From  Oporto  to  Fuente  San  Est^an  (Salamanca,  Medina 

del  Gampo)  via  Fregeneda 585 


I.  Practical  Hints. 

The  introductory  remarks  on  Spain  apply  in  the  main  to  Portugal 
also.  The  anangements  of  the  Rail'ways  are  similar,  except  that 
the  first-class  carriages  are  still  less  satisfactory,  while  on  the  branch 

32/33 


502  PORTUGAL. 

lines  there  are  no  reserved  compartments  for  ladies  or  non-smokers. 
On  the  other  hand ,  order  and  punctuality  are  better  observed.  For 
railway-time,  see  p.  11 ;  for  time-tablet,  see  p.  xv. 

The  Post  Ofpicb  fCorreio)  is  modelled  more  on  that  of  the  other 
European  nations ;  and  in  the  larger  towns  letter-boxes  (caixaa)  may 
be  found  at  the  street-corners.  The  postal  rate  for  letters  (cartas) 
within  Portugal  and  Spain  is  26  rs. ,  for  foreign  countries  (para  o 
estrangtUro)  50  rs.;  post-cards  (bUheU  pottal)  10  and  20  rs. 

Lisbon,  Gijitra,  Bussaco,  aod .Oporto  possess  excellent  Hotels. 
some  of  them  fitted  up  with  great  luxury.  The  tariff  is  usually  from 
1500  to  3000 rs.  per  day,  but  the  first  breakfast  and  table-wine  are 
often  extra.  The  dtfjetiner  (almofo)  ii  sfer^ed  during  the  whole 
forenoon ,  dinner  (Jantar)  generally  at  6  or  6.30  p.  m.  Tea  (ehd)  or 
coffee  is  included  in  each  meal  without  extra  charge.  The  smaJler 
houses  patronized  by  Portuguese  and  Brazilians  in  the  larger  towns 
resemble  the  Gasas  de  Huespedes  of  Spain ;  the  stranger  will  gener- 
ally find  in  them  a  want  of  order'and  cleanliness,  while  the  cuisine 
is  often  miserable  and  the  beds  ate  hard  as  boards.  The  inns  (Hot- 
pedarids)  in  the  smaller  towns  and  in  thel  country  can  seldom  satisfy 
even  the  most  modest  demands,  but  their  charges  are  correspond- 
ingly low  (average  rate  1000  rs.  per  day,  including  wine).  When 
attendance  is  not  charged  in  the  bill,  it  is  customary  to  give  gra- 
tuities of  about  200  rs.  in  the  larger  hotels  or  100- 160  rs.  in  the 
country.    Hotel  omnibuses  are  unknown. 

The  PoBTUouBSE  Language  makes  a  somewhat  unpleasant  im- 
pression on  the  Tisltor  from  Spain  on  account  of  the  comparative 
dulness  of  its  tone  and  the  numerous  sibilant  and  nasal  sounds.  A 
knowledge  of  it  is  hardly  necessary  for  a  short  visit.  English, 
French,  German,  and  Spanish  are  often  spoken  at  the  larger  hotels, 
and  French  will  usually  do  at  a  pinch  in  the  towns  generally.  The 
stranger  may  find  Spanish  of  service  in  the  country ,  but  the  Portu- 
guese answer  will  seldom  be  understood.  Those  who  make  a  stay  of 
any  length  -should  therefore  try  to  familiarize  themselves  with  the 
most  current  phrases. t 

The  GuEBENCY  of  the  country  has  been  in  a  very  unsatisfactory 
state  since  the  national  bankruptcy  of  1892.  Gold  has  wholly  dis- 
appeared from  circulation,  and  even  the  silver  coins  (50,  100,  200, 
and  500  reis)  are  seldom  met  with.  The  usual  circulating  medium 
is  paper  money,  in  the  form  of  notes  for  50,  100,  500,  1000,  2600, 


t  The  Peonunciation  usually  gives  the  foreigner  a  good  deal  of  dif- 
ficulty. The  Spanish  II  and  n  (p.  xil)  are  represented  by  1h  and  nh^  while 
II  is  pronounced  much  as  in  English.  In  the  middle  or  at  the  end  of  a 
word  t  generally  sounds  like  sh;  J  sounds  like  the  French  j  in  jour,  ch 
as  in  church,  f  like  ss.'  The  til  (tilde)  ^  or  nasal  accent  (♦**),  over  a 
vowel  has  the  same  efiect  es  the  addition  of  a  in  French  («  =  French 
an,  etc.)  J  in  the  case  where  two  vowels  occur  together  the  nasal  sound 
follows  the  second  (do  =  aon,  ffe  =  ocn).  Of  the  other  vowel  sounds  ei  is 
like  a  in  flate,  em  like  t^e  French  ain. 


PORTUGAL.  503 

6000,  10,000,  aud20,000rs.  There  are  also  copper  coins  of  10  and 
20  rs.  —  At  the  present  rate  of  exchange  200  re'is  are  the  equi- 
valent of  a  Spanish  peseta  (comp.  the  money-tahle  before  the  title 
page).  A  sovereign  is  worth  about  6  milreis.  A  sum  of  2000  rs.  is 
named  todtSo  (pi.  tost3fe9\  1000  rs.  um  milreis,  1000  milreis  um  conto* 

The  Sights  of  Lisbon,  Oporto,  Ooimbra,  and  other  large  cities 
are  generally  shown  only  at  certain  fixed  hours,  and  access  at  other 
times  is,  as  a  rule,  flatly  refused.  In  smaller  places,  like  Alcoba^a, 
Batalha,  and  Thomar,  the  monuments  of  art  are  generally  accessible 
all  day  long.  A  single  traveller  pays  a  fee  of  80-300  rs.,  parties 
more  in  proportion* 

Plan  of  Toub,  see  p.  xiii.  Those  who  leave  Portugal  by  sea 
must  show  a  passport  or  some  other  satisfactory  credentials. 

The  best  Travelling  Season  is  April  and  the  beginning  of 
May ;  it  is  only  in  these  days  of  spring  that  the  whole  country  is 
equally  attractive.  In  summer  the  vegetation  of  S.  and  Central 
Portugal  is  scorched  and  browned  by  the  perpetual  blaze  of  the 
sun,  while  in  winter  and  early  spring  there  is  too  much  rain,  es- 
pecially in  the  N.  The  rainfall  diminishes  as  we  proceed  from  the 
coast  inland  (Mafra  44  in.  annually,  Lisbon  26  in.)  and  still  more 
as  we  proceed  from  N.  to  S.  (Oporto  52  in.,  Coimbra  35  in.,  Lagos 
20  in.).  Snow,  here  called  chuva  de  neuc  (*snow-rain')  or,  more 
familiarly,  chuva  branca  ('white  rain'),  falls  almost  nowhere  except 
in  the  extreme  N.  and  on  the  mountains.  Frost  occurs  only  in 
clear  weather ,  when  the  wind  hlpws  from  Spain  (minimum  tem- 
perature of  Lisbon  29®  Fahr. ,  of  the  high-lying  Guarda  20®  Fahr.). 
Invalids  may  find  the  prevalent  sea-winds,  generally  from  the  N.W. 
and  W.,  a  little  trying  in  winter,  but  in  summer  they  temper  most 
agreeably  the  sultry  heat  of  the  coast  (maximum  temperature  at 
Lisbon  102®  Fahr.,  annual  mean  60®).  —  In  May,  June,  and  autumn 
the  forest-girdled  mountain-resorts,  such  as  Gintra  and  Bussaco, 
afford  pleasant  quarters,  while  in  summer  the  favourite  resorts  are 
the  sea-bathing  places  of  Estoril,  Cascaes,  Ericeira,  Nazareth, 
Mattosinhos,  Granja,  and  Espinho. 

n.  History  and  Geography. 

Eis  aqui,  quasi  came  da  cabe^a 
De  Earopa  toda,  o  reino  Lnsitano^ 
Onde  a  terra  se  acaba,  e  o  mar  come^a, 
E  onde  Fhebo  repousa  no  Oceano. 
See,  the  head-crowning  coronet  is  she, 
Of  general  Europe,  Lnsitania's  reign, 
Where  endeth  land  and  where  beginneth  ^ea, 
And  Phoebus  Sinks  to  rest  upon  the  main. 
CamoenSj  Lueiads  III.  20  (translation  of  Sir  B.  F.  Burton). 

The  kingdom  oi  Portugal  has  an  area  of  34,508  sq.  M.  and  at  the 
close  of  1890  contained  4,660,000  inhab.,  nearly  all  of  whom  were 
Roman  Catholics  and  about  three-fourths  illiterate.  The  ^Adjacentes' 


504  PORTUGAL. 

Madeira  and  the  Azores  have  an  area  of  1237  sq.M.  and  a  popniation 
of  390,000  sonU,  while  the  Important  Portngnese  colonies  in  AiWca 
and  the  E.  Indies  (Din,  Daman,  and  Goa)  are  about  772,000  sq.  M. 
injextent  The  national  colours  are  bine  and  white.  On  a  peace- 
footing  the  army  consists  of  26,000  men.  In  1894  the  navy  con- 
sisted of  47  vessels,  the  commercial  fleet  of  442  sailing  vessels  and 
44  steamers. 

In  antiquity  the  country  belonged  to  the  Roman  province  of  Luti- 
iania.  At  a  later  date  it  was  overrun  by  the  Germanic  tribes  of  the 
Vandals,  Alans,  Suevi,  and  Visigoths.  In  the  8th  cent,  the  Moors 
invaded  the  district  Ferdinand  I.  of  Castile  conquered  the  N.  part 
of  the  country  about  the  middle  of  the  11th  century.'  In  1096  his 
successor  granted  the  ^Oountship  of  Portugal'  as  a  hereditary  flef  to 
Count  Henry  of  Burgundy ,  who  had  proffered  his  services  against 
the  Moors;  and  Henry's  son,  Affonso  /.,  assumed  the  regal  title  in 
1139.  The  new  kingdom  early  entered  into  intimate  relations  with 
England ,  especially  in  the  reign  of  Affonso  lY.  (1326-67 ;  comp. 
p.  619).  In  1383  the  male  line  of  this  house  died  out,  and  the 
Estates,  in  order  to  avoid  a  reunion  with  Castile,  elected  the  Grand 
Master  of  the  Knights  of  Aviz,  a  natural  son  of  the  last  ruler ,  as 
king,  with  the  title  of  John  /.  This  sovereign  married  Philippa, 
daughter  of  John  of  Gaunt,  and  concluded  the  important  Treaty  of 
Windsor  with  England  (1386).  He  was  also  the  first  foreign  monarch 
to  receive  the  Order  of  the  Garter  (1400).  With  him  begins  the 
heroic  age  of  Portuguese  history.  After  successful  wars  with  Castile 
and  the  Moors,  Prince  Benry  the  Navigator  (p.  668)  aroused  the 
public  interest  in  voyages  of  discovery.  Madeira  was  occupied  in 
1420,  and  the  coast  of  Guinea  was  explored  a  little  later.  Bartholo- 
meu  Diaz  rounded  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  in  1486,  and  in  1498 
Vaaco  da  Oama  discovered  the  sea-route  to  India.  Brazil  was  taken 
possession  of  by  Pedro  Alvares  Cabral  about  1600.  In  1610  Affonso 
de  Albuquerque  made  important  conquests  in  Hindostan  and  Indo- 
China.  The  reign  of  Emmanuel  L  (1496-1621),  surnamed  *the 
Fortunate',  marks  the  zenith  of  the  power  of  Portugal.  Art  also 
reached  its  highest  point  in  his  time  (comp.  p.  636). 

The  illegitimate  Burgundian  line  also  became  extinct  in  1680, 
and  Portugal  was  incorporated  with  Castile,  with  which  it  had  to 
share  the  results  of  the  unfortunate  struggle  with  the  Low  Countries. 
In  1640,  however,  the  people  placed  the  Duke  of  Braganza  on  the 
throne ,  as  John  IV.  The  new  dynasty  succeeded  in  maintaining 
the  independence  of  Portugal  against  Spain,  but  the  old  glory  was 
gone.  The  spendthrift  policy  of  John  V,  (1706-60)  impoverished 
the  country  in  spite  of  the  gold  and  diamond  mines  of  Brazil.  The 
famous  Methuen  Treaty  (1703),  though  doubtless  going  far  to 
assure  the  independent  existence  of  Portugal,  practically  made  it  a 
commercial  satellite  of  England.  During  the  Napoleonic  period 
Portugal  united  with  Great  Britain  in  fighting  for  the  independence 


PORTUGAL.  505 

of  Spain,  and  it  was  the  base  of  the  military  operations  by  which 
the  J^rench  were  finally  expelled  from  the  Peninsula.  After  a  long 
series  of  contests  between  the  Miguelites  and  the  Liberals,  Portugal 
entered  on  a  new  era  of  comparative  prosperity  about  the  middle  of 
the  19th  cent;  but  its  recent  financial  difficulties  have  cast  a 
heavy  shadow  on  its  fair  prospects. 

There  seems  at  first  sight  no  adequate  reason  why  Portugal  alone 
of  all  the  once  independent  kingdoms  of  the  Iberian  Peninsula 
should  have  succeeded  in  avoiding  incorporation  with  the  great 
Castilian-Aragonese  monarchy.  Like  Spain,  Portugal  consists 
mainly  of  extensive  plateaus,  intersected  by  mountains  and  re- 
sembling in  character  the  plateau  of  Castile  or  the  great  pastures 
of  Estremadura.  Its  mountains  are  continuations  of  the  Spanish 
sierras.  The  Mountain  Terrace  of  N,  Portugal  is  connected  directly 
with  the  Gallclan  hills,  which  are  outliers  of  the  Cantabrian  range 
(p.  2)  j  the  mountain  -  range  separating  Leon  from  Castile  is  pro- 
longed to  the  ocean  by  the  Serra  da  Estrella  (6540  ft.),  or  *Range  of 
the  Star',  the  Montejvnto,  and  the  Serra  da  Cintra;  the  mountains 
of  Algarve  form  the  last  link  of  the  Sierra  Morena.  The  only  natural 
frontier  is  formed  by  such  short  ranges  as  the  Serra  do  Oerez  on  the 
N.  and  the  Serra  de  SdLo  Mamede  on  the  S. ;  the  rest  of  the  boundary 
between  Spain  and  Portugal  is  wholly  unprotected ,  and  generally 
follows  the  course  of  streams  such  as  the  Minho ,  the  Dowro ,  the 
Agueda,  and  the  Torrffes,  the  Eljas,  the  Tagu8j  and  the  Sever,  the 
Quadiana  and  the  Chanoa, 

The  great  central  rivers  of  Spain,  the  Douro,  the  Tagus,  and  the 
Guadiana ,  all  three  of  which  flow  through  Portugal  to  the  ocean 
and  would  seem  to  bind  the  two  countries  by  indissoluble  bonds, 
are  nowhere  navigable  beyond  the  Portuguese  frontier.  The  first 
does  not  become  a  real  artery  of  traffic  till  below  the  dreaded  rapids 
of  Cachdo  at  Torre  de  Moncorvo,  while  in  the  same  way  the  com- 
mercial usefulness  of  the  Tagus  and  the  Guadiana  begins  respectively 
below  the  rapids  of  Portas  de  E6dSLo  (Villa  Velha  de  R6dao)  and 
Pulo  do  IMo  ('wolfs  leap';  Mertola).  While  the  Spanish  coast 
rivers  are  nothing  but  dry  ramblas  (p.  xxxviii)  during  a  great  part  of 
the  year,  Portugal  possesses  a  number  of  small  rivers ,  which  are 
always  full  of  water  and  are  in  some  cases  navigable.  Among  these 
may  be  mentioned  the  Lima,  Cavado,  and  Tdmega  in  Minho ;  the 
Vouga,  Mondegoj  and  Zizere  in  Beira;  the  Sado  and  Mir  a  in  Alemtejo. 

This  important  advantage  Portugal  owes  to  the  moisture  pro- 
duced by  the  propinquity  of  the  ocean.  To  Spain ,  most  of  which 
faces  the  Mediterranean ,  it  stands  in  much  the  same  relation  as 
Norway  to  Sweden  or  Holland  to  Germany.  As  the  mountainous 
plateaus  of  Minho,  Estremadura,  and  Alemtejo  have  an  average 
elevation  of  600-1000  ft.  above  the  sea,  Portugal,  indeed,  can 
hardly  be  described  by  the  word  'lowlands';  but  in  comparison  with 
the  double  or  treble  height  of  the  great  central  plateau  of  Spain, 


506  PORTUGAL. 

and  in  consideration  of  its  slope  towards  the  ocean  and  its  nu- 
merous harbours,  it  has  the  character  of  a  lowland  country  to  a  lim- 
ited degree.  Its  far-western  situation  also  tends  to  promote  voyages 
of  discovery  and  commerce  with  Transatlantic  peoples. 

No  country  has  more  natural  variety  than  Portugal,  none  offers 
a  richer  series  of  changing  pictures.  On  the  coast  we  are  impressed 
by  the  far-projecting  promontories  (cdbos)  of  naked  rock  and  by  the 
ragged  outlines  of  the  islands.  The  lezirias  of  the  Tagas  and  the 
lagoons  of  Aveiro  recall  the  marshes  of  Holland ;  the  huge  dunes, 
which  threaten  to  bury  the  W.  coast  under  sand,  resemble  the 
*Landes'  of  S.  France  or  the  *Nehrungen'  of  E.  Prussia.  The  moun- 
tains of  N.  Portugal  and  the  Serra  da  Estrella  attain  an  almost  Alpine 
altitude ;  the  rich  wine-district  of  the  Douro,  with  its  terraces  toil- 
somely wrung  from  the  clayey  soil,  reproduces  the  rocky  slopes  of 
the  Rhine.  The  district  of  Entredouro  e  Minho  skirts  the  ocean  like 
a  great  garden.  The  beautiful  valley  of  the  Tagus  near  Abrantes 
recalls  the  Elbe  at  Dresden.  Lisbon  vies  in  beauty  of  position  with 
Naples.  Coimbra,  the  Portuguese  Athens,  gazes  down  on  the  banks 
of  the  Mondego,  famous  in  history  and  song.  Oporto  sits  In  majesty 
on  the  N.  bank  of  the  Douro. 

In  Vegetation  Portugal  is  the  most  peculiar  and  the  richest 
land  in  Europe ,  and  this  vegetation  is  not  divided  into  zones ,  as 
in  Andalusia,  but  spreads  its  varied  garb  over  the  whole  surface. 
Side  by  side  grow  the  agave  or  century  plant  and  the  opuntia  of 
Mexico,  the  pine  of  the  N.  and  the  eucalyptus  of  Australia,  the 
eamelia-tree  of  Japan  and  the  maple,  the  juniper,  and  the  'Portu- 
guese' cypress  (Cupresstu  glauca  or  Lusitanica)  f^om  the  mountains 
of  Qoa.  Cork-trees,  evergreen  oaks,  palms,  poplars,  limes,  magno- 
lias, and  araucarias  all  flourish  alike  under  the  rays  of  a  tropical 
sun,  tempered  by  the  cool  breath  of  the  sea.  A  stroll  through  the 
garden  of  the  Crystal  Palace  at  Oporto  or  through  the  Villa  Mon- 
serrate  at  Cintra  reveals  the  charms  of  almost  all  the  vegetable  zones 
of  the  globe. 

Perhaps  the  native  flora,  from  the  rhododendrons  of  the  Gerez  Mts. 
to  the  cistus-moors  of  Alemtejo,  is  still  more  interesting  than  the 
exotic  vegetation  of  the  garden.  If  possible ,  the  traveller  should 
visit  Portugal  in  late  spring,  when  the  meadows  both  in  the  valleys 
and  on  the  mountains  unfold  their  full  luxuriance,  when  the  oat 
halms  stand  6  ft.  high  before  the  formation  of  the  ears,  and  when 
the  sides  of  the  railway-embankments  are  covered  with  sedum  (stone- 
crop),  honeysuckle ,  and  wild  roses.  In  the  ditches  blossoms  the 
-wdLter-lilY  (Nymphaea  o.Vba)^  on  their  edges  the  beautiful  lady's  thistle 
(Carduus  marianus)  and  foxglove  (DigitaUs  purpurea). 

Among  the  most  characteristic  and  singular  features  are  the  huge 
moors  of  clstus  (chamecasjj  which  will  not  be  entirely  novel  to  the 
visitor  from  Spain.  Seen  firom  a  distance,  they  look  like  a  dark 
ocean,  in  the  leafy  waves  of  which  the  errant  traveller  might  be  sub- 


PORTUGAL.  507 

merged  as  amid  the  flower-prairies  of  Mexico.  In  the  more  high- 
lying  moora  the  charaeteristio  variety  is  the  gum-cistus  (CUtua  Icidani- 
feru8)j  -which  expels  all  other  vegetation  and  forms  the  regular 
brushwood  (matto)  of  Portugal.  The  shrubs  are  iVr^  ft.  high  and 
grow  extraordinarily  close  to  one  another;  -when  dry,  they  are  used 
as  fuel  and  for  charcoal-burning.  The  dark ,  highly  polished,  and 
evergreen  leaves  are  shaped  like  those  of  the  oleander.  The  large 
white  flowers,  each  consisting  of  five  petals  272-3  inches  long,  with 
a  spot  of  dark-purple  at  their  lower  ends,  are  wonderfully  beautiful. 
From  both  buds  and  leaves  oozes  a  sweet-smelling  gum,  with  which 
the  walker  soon  finds  himself  covered.  In  the  lower  parts  of  Alem- 
tejo  these  cistus-wlldern esses  are  replaced  by  vast  tracts  of  the  most 
varied  heaths,  such  as  the  Erica  atuttralis  and  Erica  umbellata  with 
their  beautiful  red  blossoms,  and  of  the  yellow  -  flowering  cistus 
(C.  helimifoliua,  tedantAiw,  libanoUs).  In  the  blossoming  season 
(April)  these  tracts,  along  with  the  rosemary,  myrtle,  and  handsome 
bulbous  plants  like  the  Atphodelus  ramosuSj  suggest  the  brilliant 
carpet-beds  of  some  Titanic  garden. 

AoBicuLTUBB  and  Fetjit  Gbowino  are  naturally  very  prominent 
in  a  country  favoured  by  such  a  climate  as  that  of  Portugal.  Wheat, 
maize  (milho  groaso)^  millet/Panicum  mitia^eumjj  rye,  lupin,  oats,  and 
beans  are  cultivated  throughout  the  whole  country.  There  is  scarcely 
a  tree  that  does  not  produce  some  edible  fruit,  from  the  sweet  oak 
(p.  277;  Port,  azinheira^  and  the  carob-tree  (Ceratonia  siliqua;  Port. 
alfarrohara)  up  to  the  olive,  the  vine,  the  orange,  and  the  flg.  The 
charming  variety  of  oranges. known  as  ^mandarins'  are  highly  prized. 
The  flgs  are  brought  to  premature  ripeneSs  by  the  ancient  process 
called  'capriflcation'  and  have  a  wonderfully  delicate  flavour. 

The  Sea  is  not  behind  the  land  in  fruitfulness.  No  flsh-market 
in  the  world  is  richer  than  that  of  Lisbon.  The  tunny-flshing  is  an 
important  branch  of  industry  in  Algarve.  The  salt,  procured  in  the 
great  salt-pans  (marinhas)  of  Setubal,  Aveiro,  and  tiie  Tagus  (near 
Lisbon),  is  among  the  best  in  Europe. 

Certain  parts  of  Portugal  show  a  high  degree  of  Oultivation. 
Such  are  the  province  of  Minho ,  the  districts  round  Lisbon  and 
Setubal,  the  vine-clad  slopes  of  Estremadura  and  the  Douro,  and  the 
hilly  plateau  of  Algarve,  with  its  luxuriant  N.  African  vegetation. 
The  greater  part  of  the  country,  however,  is  very  poorly  cultivated. 
Most  of  Alemtejo,  which  once  rivalled  Sicily  as  a  granary  of  Rome, 
has  been  allowed  to  fall  out  of  cultivation  and  now  forms  an  im- 
mense pasture  for  sheep  and  pigs.  The  traveller  may  journey  here 
for  hours  without  seeing  a  village,  a  house,  a  hut  (padhota),  or  even 
a  man.  The  few  oases  of  tillage,  such  as  ELvas,  Evora,  and  Beja, 
serve  but  to  heighten  the  general  effect.  In  summer  the  shepherds 
migrate  to  the  Serra  da  Estrella,  where  their  savage  dogs  protect  the 
flocks  from  the  wolves.  It  is  then  that  they  prepare  their  excellent 
little  .cheeses  (queijinhos)  or  the  sweet  requeij&o.    The  wool  is  used 


508  PORTUGAL. 

in  the  factories  of  Portalegre  and  Covilhi,  vhich  produce  the  material 
for  the  long  brown  coats  of  the  peasants,  called  Saraga^a  Cloth, 
because  its  eoloor  resembles  that  of  the  plants  of  the  Sargasso  Sea  in 
the  Atlantic  Ocean.  —  The  famous  honey  of  Portugal  is  distilled 
from  the  heaths  of  Alemtejo. 

In  the  Inhabitants,  originally  of  Iberian  and  Celtic  stock,  the 
mixture  of  races  is  still  very  perceptible.  In  the  S.  the  Moorish 
type  prevails,  while  the  peasants  of  the  N.  mountains  not  in- 
frequently suggest  a  Germanic  element.  The  negroes  and  mulattoes 
that  are  so  numerous  in  Lisbon  are  a  feature  due  to  the  extensive 
colonial  system  of  Portugal.  —  As  a  rule  the  Portuguese  are  modest 
and  courteous  in  their  bearing,  though  they  share  the  Spanish  love 
for  magniloquence  of  phrase.  They  are,  however,  more  humane  than 
the  Spaniard ,  less  bigoted  in  religious  matters ,  and  less  excitable 
and  unruly  in  the  political  field.  The  haughty  Spaniard  often  treats 
the  Portuguese  as  his  butt,  making  him  the  comic  person  in  his 
comedies,  the  duped  simpleton  of  his  stories.  The  stranger,  however, 
will  fail  to  see  any  good  reason  for  this  attitude.  —  Some  survivals 
of  the  picturesque  costumes  of  a  by  -  gone  age  are  stUl  preserved 
among  the  country-people,  such  as  the  rich  gold  ornaments  of  the 
peasant-women  of  Minho  and*  the  valley  of  the  Douro.  The  ox- 
waggon  is  the  usual  vehicle  of  the  peasant,  often  driven  only  by  a 
boy  or  girl  with  a  long  staff.  The  yoke  is  formed  of  a  carved  and 
painted  board  named  the  Canga,  The  ear-splitting  creaking  of  the 
wheels  is  supposed  to  frighten  off  wolves  and  demons ;  but  in  the 
towns  the  axles  have  to  be  kept  greased. 

The  comparative  humanity  of  the  Portuguese  is  especially  noticeable 
in  the  Bull  Fights,  which  are  much  less  gory  than  in  Spain.  As  there, 
the  drama  begins  with  the  entree  of  the  gaily  dressed  bull-fighters.  The 
Cavitlhetro  (Span.  Pieador)^  dressed  in  the  old  Portuguese  court-dress  with 
a  three-cornered  hat,  first  exhibits  the  paces  of  the  ancient  Spanish  man- 
age, then  begs  from  the  PrwdeiUe  da  Prciga  permission  to  begin  the  combat* 
and  finally  salutes  the  public  (as  eortetiat  do  eavalMro).  The  procession 
then  leaves  the  ring,  and  the  cavalheiro  re-apptars  alone,  mounted  on  a 
less  showy  steed.  At  the  sound  of  a  trumpet  the  bull,  the  horns  of  which 
are  guarded  by  leather  *buttons%  is  allowed  to  enter  the  arena.  The  rider 
en^ges  him  with  a  long  lance  (/arpa)^  while  the  Capinhoi^  so  called 
from  the  capa  worn  over  the  shoulder,  and  resembling  the  Spanish  Banderil- 
Urot  in  their  dress,  tease  him  with  their  gaily-coloured  cloaks  and  when 
necessary  protect  the  horse  and  rider.  After  the  cavalheiro  has  left  the 
ring,  the  capinhas  continue  the  combat  with  shorter  lances  (handarilhM). 
Sometimes  the  killing  of  the  bull  is  then  simulated  by  an  Etpada  with  a 
wooden  sword.  When  the  bull  is  somewhat  exhausted  comes  the  turn  of 
the  MofoM  de  Forcado,  men  with  round  hats  and  thickly-padded  leather 
breeches,  whose  function  it  is  to  face  the  bull,  and  leap  from  in  front 
between  his  horns.  Serious  injuries  are  by  no  means  unknown  in  this 
part  of  the  sport.    Finally  the  bull  is  led  from  the  ring  by  trained  oxen. 

The  most  characteristic  industry  of  Portugal,  inherited  from  the  Moors 
and  still  practised  with  success  in  Lisbon  and  Oporto,  is  the  manufacture 
of  Porcelain  Tiles  (asulejon,  p.  xxxyiii),  with  which  the  walls  of  houses, 
and  even  of  churches,  are  adorned  both  within  and  without.  At  first  these 
tiles  were  used  in  ribbon-like  patterns  similar  to  those  of  Oranada  and 
Seville,  but  a  freer  use  of  Renaissance  forms  was  developed  in  the  i6thcent., 
'hile  in  the  17-l8th  cent,  regular  mosaic  pictures  came  into  vogue. 


509 

54.   From  Badajoz  to  Lisbon  vi&  Torre  das  Vargens 
and  Entroncamento. 

.180  M.  Railway  (two  trains  daily)  in  11-12  hrs.  (fares  5570, 4480, 3210  ra.)- 
Luggage  is  examined  and  money  may  be  changed  at  Eloa*  (in  the  reverse 
direction  at  Badajoz,  p.  457).  Our  line  unites  with  that  from  Upper  Es- 
tremadura  (&.  47;  carriages  changed)  at  Torre  dot  Vcargent  (p.  510),  and 
with  that  from  Oporto  and  Pampilhosa  (JR..  61)  at  Entroncamento  (p.  511; 
carriages  changed).  —  There  is  a  railway-restaurant  at  Entroncamento,  and 
huffets  at  Bivat,  PortcHegre,  Torre  doe  Vargem^  and  Ahrxxntes. 

On  this  journey  every  traveller  will  be  struck  by  the  contrast  between 
the  dry  climate  of  the  central  Spanish  plateau  and  the  moist,  oceanic 
climate  of  Portugal.  This  is  perceptible  even  at  Elvas,  but  still  more  as 
we  pass  from  the  highlands  of  Alemtejo  into  the  smiling  valley  of  the 
TagHS.  The  Tagus  forms  a  marshy  delta  in  its  lower  course  before  enter- 
ing the  spacious  Bay  of  Lisbon.  —  From  Abrantes  to  Praia  (p.  511)  the 
best  views  are  to  the  right,  beyond  that  to  the  left. 

Badajoz,  see  p.  457.  —  The  train  runs  to  the  W.  over  the 
treeless  plain  of  the  Ouadiana  and  crosses  (4V2M.)  the  frontier  brook 
of  Caiaf  which  descends  from  the  Serra  de  8do  Mamede  to  the  N.W. 

IOV2  M.  Elvag  (Hot  Central;  Hot.  Elvense),  the  Balesh  of  the 
Moors  and  the  Yelvea  of  the  Spaniards,  is  a  town  of  10,500  inhab., 
finely  situated  on  a  mountain^side,  dominated  by  Fort  Santa  Lucia 
(1200  ft.)  on  the  S.  and  ^ortiVossavScnftora  do  G'rapa  (see  below)  on  the 
N.  Elvas  was  taken  from  the  Moors  by  Leon  in  1166,  and  by  the  Portu- 
guese in  1200  and  1226.  It  has  been  the  see  of  a  bishop  since  1570 
and  the  strongest  fortress  of  Portugal  since  1642.  The  Spaniards 
besieged  it  in  vain  in  1658  and  1711.  The  groves  of  olives  and 
oranges  show  that  we  have  left  behind  us  the  barren  plains  of 
Spanish  Estremadura.  ««  The  "'Aqubducto  da  Amobeiba,  begun 
in  the  beginning  of  the  15th  cent,  and  completed  in  1622,  brings 
the  town  an  excellent  supply  of  water  from  a  point  about  4  M,  to 
the  W.;  part  of  it  has  four  tiers  of  arches,  120  ft.  high.  —  The  Sb, 
or  cathedral,  founded  by  King  Emmanuel  I.  (1495-1521) ,  is  ap- 
proached by  a  lofty  flight  of  steps.  The  late-Gothic  interior  contains 
some  fine  stained  glass  and  an  Assumption  by  Lourtn^o  Qrameira. 
In  the  chapter-room  are  some  paintings  by  Antonio  de  Sequevra^  a 
native  of  Elvas  (1768-1837).  —  The  church  of  the  former  Convento 
das  Freiras  de  Sao  Domingos  {founded  ca.  1550)  is  an  octagonal 
structure  with  rich  but  sadly  dilapidated  Renaissance  decoration. 

Traversing  the  Rua  de  SSo  Vicente  and  crossing  the  Seto,  we 
ascend  rapidly  to  the  N.  to  the  Fobtb  de  Gbaca  (1270  ft.),  also 
known  as  the  Forte  de  Lippe,  from  the  Qran  Conde  William  of 
Schaumburg^Lippej  commander  of  the  Portuguese  army  in  1762-64. 
This  fort,  with  its  large  casemates,  is  the  real  citadel  of  Elvas*, 
beneath  its  chapel  is  a  cistern ,  23  ft.  deep ,  fed  from  the  above- 
mentioned  aqueduct.  The  ramparts  command  a  fine  view  of  Alem- 
tejo with  the  Ossa  to  the  W.  and  the  Serra  de  Sio  Mamede  to  the 
N.;  Badajoz  and  Spanish  Estremadura  are  also  distinctly  visible. 

A  highroad  leads  to  the  :N,E.  from  Elvas  to  (10  M.)  Campo  Kaior 
famous  for  the  siege  by  Marshal  MoiHier  in  1811   and  its  relief  by  Lor 


510   RouU64,  PORTALKORE.  From  Badajo% 

Mmr^ord,    The  erent  if  celebrated  by  Sir  Walter  Seott  in  bis  spirited 
ballad,  beginning  ^To  Campo  Maior  come^  be  bad  quietly  sat  down**. 

The  train  ascends  to  the  N.W.,  under  Fort  Lippe  and  passing 
many  attractive  country- villas ,  to  the  bleak  plateau  of  Alemtejo. 
Granite  and  slate  alternate  here  as  in  Spanish  Estremadura ;  the 
blocks  often  lie  one  above  another  as  in  dolmens,  surrounded  by 
scanty  patches  of  rye.  To  the  £.  the  eye  travels  far  over  Spain. 
Farther  on  appear  sweet-acorned  oaks  and  venerable  cork-trees.  — 
23  M.  Santa  EuUdia,  —  35  M.  Assumar,  the  Ad  BepUm  Aras  of  the 
Romans,  Is  the  station  for  Arronehes  (970  ft.),  the  Roman  Ptagiaria^ 
a  once  important  Moorish  fortress,  2  M.  to  the  £.,  which  played  a 
prominent  part  in  the  wars  between  Spain  and  Portugal.  Assumar 
is  about  390  ft.  above  Elvas.  To  the  N.  is  the  Serra  de  Porialegre, 
with  the  Serra  de  Sdo  Mamede  beyond  it. 

41  M.  Portalegre,  the  station  for  the  provincial  capital  of  that 
name  (10,700  inhab.),  which  lies  Vl^  M.  to  the  S.,  at  the  foot  of  a 
hill.  It  is  the  old  Roman  Amoea^  and  has  been  the  see  of  a  bishop 
since  1550. 

From  Portalegre  good  Roads  lead  to  the  IS.  to  Castello  de  Vide  (p.  45i) 
and  Marvao  (p.  451).  --  On  the  Sever  (p.  461),  about  5  M.  to  tbe  N.E., 
lies  Arameaha^  the  ancient  Uedolbriga.  This  district  was  thickly  populated 
in  antiquity,  and  numerous  Roman  and  Celtic  objects  have  been  found 
here,  as  at  ArroiK^ee  (see  above),  Ltzeviio^  and  other  places. 

The  train  descends  to  the  W.  into  the  valley  of  the  Stdu.  — 
52  M.  Orato,  on  the  Ervedal^  2  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  railway,  was 
once  the  seat  of  the  Or&o  Friorado  de  Crato ,  a  powerful  order  of 
chivalry,  founded  in  1118  with  the  same  rules  as  the  Knights  of 
Malta.  Its  territory  was  60  M.  long  and  30  M.  wide.  The  Grand 
Prior  was  always  a  prince  of  the  royal  house;  and  in  1551  the  order 
was  absorbed  by  the  crown  (comp.  p.  561).  Nossa  Senhora  Flor  da 
Rosa,  the  dilapidated  castle  of  the  order,  lies  about  1  M.  to  the  N. 
of  the  town  and  was  built  by  the  first  prior,  Frey  Alvaro  Oon^cdves 
PereUra^  father  of  the  celebrated  Nuno  Alvares  Pereira  (p.  555). 

From  Crato  a  DiLxasNCB  runs  to  the  N.  daily  to  Alpalhao.  Niza.  and 
Villa  Veiha  de  RddSo  (p.  511). 

Farther  on  we  cross  the  Seda.  Corn-fields  alternate  with  tracts 
of  broom  and  cistus.  61  M.  CVianpa.  —  67  M.  Torre  das  Vargens 
(Buffet)  is  the  junction  of  the  line  from  Upper  Estremadura  (R.  47). 

We  now  reach  the  valley  of  the  Sdr,  The  scenery  becomes  more 
attractive  and  the  flora  richer.  The  blossoms .  of  the  cistus  and  the 
heaths  form  a  charming  picture  in  spring.  Near  (74  M.)  Ponte  de 
86r  the  train  crosses  the  river.  Fig-trees,  aloes,  and  fields  of  rice 
begin  to  appear.  The  line  runs  to  the  N.W.  across  the  low  ridge 
separating  the  valley  of  the  S6r  from  that  of  the  Tagus.  Beyond 
(85  M.)  Bemposta,  the  first  station  in  Portuguese  Estremadura ,  we 
follow  the  course  of  the  Torto,  The  heights  to  the  left  are  the  Oemas 
de  Ourenij  a  dreary  plateau  with  several  small  crater-like  lakes. 

93  M.  Abrantes  (Hospedaria^  primitive),  a  town  of  6400  inhab., 
is  picturesquely  situated  I74  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  the  station,  high  up 


to  Lisbon.  ABRANTES.  54.  Route.    511 

on  the  N.  bank  of  the  TaguSy  which  is  already  navigable  beie  and 
crossed  by  a  long  iron  bridge.  The  most  interesting  buildings  are 
the  church  of  Sdo  Vicente  and  the  Castle  (view).  The  French  Gen. 
Marshal  Junot  received  the  title  of  Due  de  Abrantes  in  recognition 
of  his  triumphant  march  from  Salamanca  to  Lisbon  vill  Abrantes 
in  1807. 

Fbom  Absantks  to  Guarda,  132  U.,  railway  (two  trains  daily)  in  8V4- 
9V4  hrs.  (fares  4230,  3290,  2350  rs.).  This  line  traverses  a  very  pretty  connlry. 
—  Tlie  train  crosses  the  Tagus  by  a  long  iron  bridge  and  then  ascends 
on  its  right  bank,  towards  the  B.,  traversing  many  viaducts  and  solid 
embankments.  To  the  right  of  (40  M.)  Vitta  Velha  d4  Rddao  are  the  *Portat 
d€  RddiXo^  a  boiling  rapid  where  the  river  is  confined  between  two  walls 
of  rock,  only  150  ft.  apart.  —  The  train  now  quits  the  Tagus  and  ascends 
to  the  N.E.  50  U.  Samadas.  —  58  M.  OaateUo  Branco  (1575  ft.)i  the  chief 
town  of  a  district  (7500  inhab.)  and  the  see  of  a  bishop,  was  the  ancient 
Ccutraleu€U*  and  possesses  some  Roman  remains,  old  walls,  and  a  decayed 
castle.  Near  the  town  are  some  marble  quarries.  —  In  the  foreground, 
farther  on,  appears  the  Serra  Ouardunha  (4015  ft.)t  the  E.  spurs  of  which 
the  railway  intersects  beyond  (82  H.)  Vcdle  de  Prazeres.  92  M.  Fuvdao, 
on  the  N.  edge  of  the  mountains.  —  The  train  enters  the  fruitful  valley  of 
the  Zdzere,  crosses  its  feeder  the  Meimffa,  and  then  the  main  stream  itself. 
103  U.  Covilhi  (2180  ft. ;  H6t.  Covilhanense),  a  prosperous  town  of  10,800 inhab., 
finely  situated  on  the  S.E.  slope  of  the  granitic  Berra  da  EsireUa  (6540  ft.) 
and  commanded  by  an  old  castle.  It  has  several  cloth-factories.  —  We 
again  cross  the  Z^zere  and  ascend  through  a  wild,  mountainous  district  to 
(132  M.)  Oitarda  (p.  573). 

Beyond  Abrantes  the  train  descends  along  the  S.  (left)  bank  of 
the  Tagus,  the  N.  bank  of  which  is  covered  with  olives.  —  95  M. 
TramagaL  We  run  through  pine-woods  and  between  hedges  of 
aloe,  then  over  tilled  ground  and  rice-flelds.  The  Tagus  is  crossed 
by  an  iron  •Bridge,  72  ft.  above  the  surface  of  the  water  and  having 
16  arches  of  98  ft.  span.  —  At  (102  M.)  Ftotia  we  have  a  fine  view 
of  the  town  of  Constancia  (65  ft.),  lying  on  the  N.  bank  of  the  Tagus 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Zizere  (see  above).  The  line  runs  just  above 
the  Tagus,  in  which,  near  the  right  bank,  lies  a  small  rocky  islet  with 
the  castle  of  Almour6l.  —  At  (104  M.)  Tancos  is  a  favourite  manceuv- 
ring  ground  for  the  Portuguese  troops. 

From  Tancos  or  Barquinha  (see  below)  a  visit  may  be  paid  to  the 
legendary  ruin  of  Almoorol.  This  castle,  founded  by  GuakUm  Pae$  (p.  561) 
on  Roman  and  Moorish  foundations  in  1160,  consists  of  eleven  towers 
connected  with  one  another  and  dominated  by  the  Torre  de  Menagem 
(provision  tower).  The  gate  was  formerly  on  the  8.  side,  but  we  now 
enter  by  a  breach  in  the  N.  wall. 

At  (107  M.)  Barqvxitha  the  valley  of  the  Tagus  expands  into  a 
wide  littoral  plain,  probably  at  one  time  an  arm  of  the  sea. 

109  V2  M.  Entroncamento  (•J?a«.  Restaurant,  de'j.  500,  D.  600  rs., 
both  incl.  wine)  is  the  junction  of  the  line  from  Oporto.  Passengers 
for  Lisbon  change  carriages  here,  and  will  find  their  train  on  the 
other  side  of  the  station. 

From  Entroncamento  to  Coinibra^  Pampilhosa,  and  Oporto,  see  R.  61. 

The  train  to  Lisbon  skirts  the  attractive  hill-district  of  Portu- 
guese Estremadnra  (right),  generally  at  some  distance  from  the 
Tagus.  We  cross  several  streams,  the  lower  oourses  of  which  havf 


b\2   RofUeSd.  SANTARRM.  From  Badajoz 

been  canalized.  —  112  M.  Torres  Novas;  117*/2  M.  llfaito  de  Mi- 
randa, among  woods  of  cork-trees.  To  the  left,  in  a  wine-growing 
district,  lies  the  small  town  of  OoUegd.  —  We  now  cross  the  Al- 
vUUa  (p.  630).  124  M.  VaUe  de  FiguHra.  The  exuberantly  fertile 
plain  is  celebrated  by  Gamoens  in  the  ^Lusiads'  (IV.  23). 

129  M.  Bantarem  (H6t.  da  Felicia),  the  Roman  Scalabis  or  Prae- 
sidium  JuUum,  is  now  a  district-capital  with  9800inhab.,  finely 
situated  high  above  the  Tagus,  which  is  here  spanned  by  a  trellis- 
work  bridge  with  eight  openings  (view). 

Bantarem  derives  its  name  from  iBanta  Ma  ot  Irene,  whose  martyred 
body  floated  miraealonsly  to  this  spot  from  Thomar  (p.  561),  down  tbe 
Nabao,  Ze'zere,  and  Tagas  (SOth  Oct.,  653).  As  tbe  key  of  the  Tagus,  the 
town  plays  an  important  rdle  In  Portugnese  history.  It  was  taken  from 
the  Moors,  after  a  aeries  of  hard-fought  contesio,  by  Alfonio  VI.  of  Castile 
in  1093  and  again  by  Affonso  Eenriques  in  1147.  The  Almohades  nnder 
Abu  Tcfkuh  YHsu/  made  a  desperate  effort  to  retake  it  in  1184,  bnt  tbe 
attempt  was  frustrated  by  the  Ir\fante  Dom  Saneho,  and  the  caliph  him- 
self  was  mortally  wounded.  In  1838  Santarem  was  vigorously  defended 
by  the  Migaelites.  Since  this  period  it  has  no  longer  been  maintained  as  a 
fortress,  but  it  did  not  receive  a  municipal  charter  till  1870.  —  Prince 
Affonso,  the  only  son  of  John  II.,  was  drowned  here  in  the  Tagns,  at  the 
age  of  sixteen,  on  July  13th,  1491,  as  he  was  riding  to  meet  his  father; 
and  his  unlucky  fate  is  the  burden  of  several  Portuguese  national  songs. 

Almost  nothing  now  remains  of  the  old  town- walls  or  of  the 
castle  of  AUafova.  —  The  most  interesting  buildings  are  the  church 
of  Santa  IrCa,  the  tutelar  of  the  town ;  the  late-Oothic  church  of  the 
Convenio  de  OroQa,  with  fine  mural  tiles  of  the  18th  cent.,  the 
graceful  Renaissance  monument  of  the  Count  of  Ourem,  and  the 
tomb  of  Pedro  Alvares  Oabral  (d.  ca.  1626;  p.  604);  the  church 
Do  Milagro,  in  an  early-Renaissance  style;  the  chapel  of  the  widely 
venerated  Santa  Rita,  with  a  picture  of  the  saint  by  Ignacio  Xavier 
(b.  at  Santarem  in  1724);  the  church  of  Santa  Maria  de  MarviUa, 
built  in  1244,  but  with  later  additions  by  King  Emmanuel ;  the  secu- 
larized church  of  San  Francisco,  dating  from  the  13th  cent.,  with  a 
crucifix  presented  by  John  I.  (to  the  left  of  the  entrance)  and  inter- 
esting cloisters.  —  The  old  church  of  S&o  Jod»o  do  AlporSo,  with  a 
Moorish  minaret  (Alminar),  now  contains  an  Archaeological  Mu- 
seum, —  The  Priests'  Seminary  is  the  most  frequented  In  Portugal. 
In  front  of  it  Pedro  Coelho  and  Alvaro  Gonzalez,  the  murderers  of 
Inez  de  Castro  (p.  671),  were  tortured  to  death  before  the  eyes 
of  Peter  I. 

The  village  of  Almeirim,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Tagus.  to  the  S.W. 
of  Santarem,  was  long  one  of  the  royal  summer-residences  before  its  almost 
total  destruction  by  the  earthquake  of  1755.  The  ^Cardinal  Kins'*  Henry 
abdicated  here  in  1580. 

The  trees  in  this  lower  plain  of  the  Tagus  all  bend  towards  tbe 
S.E.,  since  the  N.W.  wind  prevails  eleven  months  out  of  twelve.  On 
the  river  may  be  perceived  a  few  small  sailing  vessels,  which  can 
ascend  to  Santarem  with  the  flowing  tide.  The  fishing-boats  use 
the  Canal  (1848)  to  the  left  of  the  railway,  which  ends  at  Azam- 
buja.  —  The  small  stations  of  (137  M.)  Sant'  Anna  and  (141 V2  M.) 


to  Lisbon.  ALEMQUER.  54.  Route,    513 

Ponte  de  Reguengo  serve  the  wine-growing  district  to  the  N.W.,  of 
whith  Cartavo  is  the  focus.  The  pine-woods  of  (146  M.)  Azam- 
buja  provide  Lisbon  with  timber.  —  153  M.  Carregado  is  also  the 
station  for  Villa  Nova  da  Ramha. 

From  Cabrrgado  to  Caldas  da  Rainha,  36  M.,  diligence  in  5  hrs.  — 
The  good  road  leaves  the  Tagus  valley  at  (2V2  M.)  the  village  of  Carregado 
and  ascends  to  theN.W.  to  the  fruitful  hill- district  of  Estremadura,  with  its 
vines,  olives,  and  mulherries.  —  71/2  M.  Alemquer,  the  Jerabrica  of  Strabo, 
was  rebuilt  by  the  Alans  in  418  under  the  name  of  Alanokerkae  and  was 
wrested  from  the  Moors  in  1148,  along  with  Obidos  and  Torrea  Vedras,  It 
is  now  a  town  of  4400  inhab.,  charmingly  situated  on  the  brook  of  its 
own  name  and  possessing  several  cloth  and  paper  mills.  On  the  height 
to  the  left  is  the  church  of  Varzea,  containing  the  tomb  of  DamiSo  de  Ooes 
(1501-71),  the  statesman,  historian,  and  friend  of  Erasmus,  who  fell  a 
victim  to  the  Inquisition.  To  the  right,  also  on  the  hill,  are  the  remains 
of  the  old  Castle  (13th  cent.)-  To  the  W.  of  Alemquer  lies  the  old  convent 
of  Camota,  now  private  property,  with  twelve  marble  columns  captured 
at  Ceuta  in  1411.  —  At  the  highest  point  of  the  road  (ca.  330  ft.)  we  enjoy 
a  fine  retrospect  of  the  plain  of  the  -Tagus.  We  then  descend,  generally 
following  the  new  Lisbon  aqueduct  (p.  530),  into  a  barren  region  over- 
grown with  cistufl.  At  (101/2  M.)  Ota  the  road  begins  to  re-ascend.  To 
the  left  rises  the  Montejttnto  (p.  551).  We  then  traverse  an  attractive  hilly 
district  to  the  N.W.,  with  views  extending  to  Cape  Carvoeiro  and  the 
Berlengas  (p.  551).  21  M.  Cercai;  27Vz  M.  Casal  de  Carreiros.  —  35  M. 
Caldas  da  Rainha,  see  p.  551. 

Farther  on  the  train  passes  the  old  town  of  Castanheira  and  the 
village  of  Povos,  with  the  ruinfl  of  a  palace  of  the  Counts  of  Castan- 
heira  and  a  Moorish  chapel.  —  156  M.  Villa  Franca  de  Xira^  a  town 
with  4200  inhab.,  founded  by  the  French  In  the  reign  of  Affonso 
Henriques.  Henceforth  we  see  many  fenced-in  salt-pans  (marinhas) 
on  the  bank  of  the  Tagus.  Farther  on  are  the  LezirCas,  a  marshy 
district  between  the  Tagus  and  the  8orraia^  protected  by  embank- 
ments against  floods,  intersected  by  canals,  and  bearing  large  crops 
of  grain.  —  159  M.  Alhandra^  the  birthplace  of  Affonso  de  Atbu- 
querque  (p.  504),  with  a  church  (on  a  hill  to  the  left),  which  is  much 
visited  on  the  Festival  of  St.  John.  Near  Alhandra  are  the  grazing 
grounds  of  the  bulls  bred  for  the  ring.  The  Forte  de  Sao  Vicente^ 
on  a  hill  to  the  left,  once  formed  the  extremity  of  the  famous  Lines 
of  Torres  Vedras  (p.  551). 

Below  Alhandra  the  Tagus  forms  three  Islands,  the  Mouchaos 
d' Alhandra.,  de  Lomho  do  Tejo,  and  da  Povoa^  and  gradually  widens 
into  the  *  Bay  of  Liabon^  an  e:xpanse  of  salt-water,  18  M.  long  and 
2 V2-8  M.  broad  (comp.  the  Map  at  p.  539).  —  To  the  N.W.  of  (162  M.) 
Alverca  lies  the  battlefield  of  Alfarrobeira^  where  Peter,  Duke  of 
Coimhia  (p.  558),  was  defeated  and  slain  in  1449  by  his  nephew, 
Affonso  V.  —  166  M.  Povoa ;  170  M.  Sacavem.,  attractively  situated 
at  the  mouth  of  the  river  of  that  name,  descending  from  the  valley 
of  Vnhos.  On  the  E.  side  of  the  bay  lie  Alcochete  and  Aldea  OaUega. 
The  scenery  increases  in  beauty.  172  M.  Olivaes;  174  M,  Bra^o 
de  Prata^  with  the  warehouses  of  the  Lisbon  merchants. 

The  main  line,  from  which  a  branch  here  diverges  for  the  E. 
Station  (Esta^ao  Caes  doa  Soldados;  see  p.  514)^  now  turns  inlan-' 

Baedekee"^  Spain  and  Portugal.  33 


514   Route  55.  LISBON.  Hotels.      I 

fW.),  crosBM  the  CheUas^p,  519),  and  sweeps  round  Ldsboa  Orientai 
p.  518).  —  178  M.  OftmpoUde,  in  the  valley  of  the  Alcantara,  is 
the  jnnctlon  of  the  railways  to  Gintra  (R.  56  d)  and  Mafra-Xteiria, 
(R.  59).  To  the  right  we  have  a  good  view  of  the  old  aqaedact  of 
Lisbon  (p.  525).  —  We  penetrate  a  tannel  IV2  M.  long  (5-6  min.) 
and  then  descend  to  the  S.E.  to  the  Central  Station  of  — 
180  M.  Uabon  (see  below). 

55.  Lisbon.^ 

Railway  Stations.    1.   EstafSo   CentrcU  (PI.   F,  8;  no  restaavant)    or 
LUboa  Bodo,  Boa  do  Principe,   a  little  to  the  K.W.  of  the  Bocio,  for  the 
linea  to  Spanish  Estremadura  (BB.  54,  47),  Pampilhosa  and  Oi>orto  (B-  61), 
Cintra  (B.  56  d).  and  Mafra  and  Leiria  (B.  69).    The  departure-platform  is 
on  the  third   floor  (lift   10  rs.).    Luggage  ig  examined  on  arrival  by  the 
officers  of  the  octroi  (eontumo).    A  porter  (mofo;  100  rs.)  looks  after  the 
lavage   and  secures  a  cab  (trem;  fare  for  1-2  pers.  with  luggage  4CX)  rs., 
3-4  pers.  600  ra.(  comp.  p.  515;  a  distinct  bargain  should  at  once  be  made). 
The  tramway  (p.  6I0;  Ko.  1)  may  be  used  by  travellers  without  luggage 
proceeding  to   the  Hotel  Central.  —  2.  Bttafao  <U  Santa  ApoloiUa  (PI.  I,  4) 
or  Lisboa  Gaet  dos  Soldados^  a  secondary  station  for  the  lines  to  Spanish 
Estremadura  (BB.  64,  47)  and   Oporto  (B.  61),  of  little  significance    to 
tonri.sts.  —  3.   Etta^o  Caei  do  Sodr€  (PI.  D,  5)  and  (4)  BstafSo   StnUot 
(PI.  G,  D,4),  for  the  line  to  Estoril  and  Gascaes  (B.  56  c).  —  5.  BttofSo  do 
Barrtiro,   on  the  8-   side  of  the  bay,  for  the  trains  to  Palmella,  Setobal, 
EvSra,   Algarve,  and  other  places  in  S.  Portugal.    The  ferry  starts  from 
the  Praca  do  Gommercio  (Pi.  F,  6;  comp.  p.  516).  —  Office  of  the  Inter- 
national Bleeping  Carriage  Co.   (Companhia  Internacional  dos  Wagons-Lits 
do  Grandes  Expresses  Europeus),  Bua  do  Principe. 

Arrival  by  Bea.  Most  of  the  large  sea-going  steamers  (p.  516)  anchor 
in  the  Tagus  considerably  below  the  town,  and  passengers  are' landed  by 
small  boat  (bote).  There  is  no  tariff  for  the  boatmen,  who  usually  demand 
1  milreis  to  land  a  single  traveller  and  his  baggage;  it  is  therefore 
desirable  for  several  passengers  to  club  together  and  agree  upon  a  rate 
of  about  600  rs.  per  head.  If  the  ship  is  crowded,  better  terms  may  be 
obtained  by  waiting  until  the  first  rush  is  over.  It  should  be  distinctly 
understood  that  the  fare  includes  the  transport  of  luggage  to  the  custom- 
house (p.  520)  and  the  hotel,  otherwise  the  traveller  will  have  to  hire 
other  porters  or  a  cab  on  landing.  The  custom-house  is  open  till  sunset; 
travellers  arriving  in  the  evening  must  remain  on  board  till  the  next 
morning.  —  If  the  steamer  hails  from  a  port  suspected  of  yellow  fever 
(/«6r«  amarella)  or  cholera  (porto  inficionado  ou  iuspecto)^  passengers  are 
quarantined  in  the  Latareio  (p.  640),  where  there  is  a  fixed  tariff  for  board, 
lodging,  and  so  on.  —  For  the  Permit  necessary  in  leaving  Lisbon  by 
sea,  see  n.  503. 

HotMs  (comp.  p.  502;  a  bargain  should  be  struck  at  once).  ^Avenida 
Palace  (PI.  a,  P  3:  formerly  Intemationat)^  Bua  do  Principe,  corner  of 
the  Avenida  da  Liberdade,  conveniently    situated  close   to  the  Gentral 

f  The  Pra9a  de  Dom  Pedro  or  Bocfo  (PI.  F,  4;  p.  521)  is  the  chief 
centre  of  traffic.  A  knowledge  of  the  following  expressions  will  be  found 
useful :  alameda^  avenida^  pasteiOj  promenade ;  alto,  altinhOy  hill ;  azinhaga, 
footpath;  beco,  blind  alley;  boqveirSOy  narrow  street  leading  to  the  Tagus ; 
COM,  quay;  cdtgada^  ealfodinha,  steep  street;  ceunpo,  square;  carreirOj  ear- 
reirinlMj  road;  eecadinha^  staircase;  eairada^  highroad;  junc^o,  connecting 
passage;  largo,  small  square;  pdteo,  court;  pra^a,  square;  rtM,  street; 
traversa^  cross-street;  cereal,  walled  enclosure  of  a  convent  or  the  like; 
horta,  garden-land  (Span.  huerta)\  Jardim,  pleasure-garden;  pomar,  orchard; 
quinta  (Arab,  kint),  garden  of  a  villa  or  country-house;  quintc^y  vegetable 
garden;  tapada,  park. 


^rmwr 


§i^S:f^lmmi\mrimL 


O^ 


LI  SiOA 


1:15.000 

aoo  ♦oo 


mSSPHeirw 


.  Jflevadores  e  Trantrias 


K 


Wagner  A; Drbrs.  licipzig 


Cabs. 


MSBON. 


55.  Route,   515 


Station,  with  lift,  well  fitted  up  and  charges  to  correspond  (no  view  of 
the  bay)i  •Hotel  Buagan^a  (PI.  b;  B,  5),  Eua  Victor  Cordon,  in  a  high 
position  with  a  gf  od  view,  much  frequented  by  the  English,  dej.  750,  D. 
10  0,  pens,  from  *(X)Ors.,  wine  extra;  •Gkand  H6tel  Centbal  (PL  c;  E,  5), 
on  the  Caes  de  Sodrd,  with  view,  lift,  and  baths,  patronized  by  the  Ger- 
mans, L.  2(X),  A.  200,  d^j.  750,  pens,  from  1800  rs.,  wine  extra.  —  Less 
pretending:  Hot.  Allian^a  (PI.  d;  F,  4),  Rua  Nova  de  Trindade,  cqt.  of 
the  Rua  Garrett:  Hot.  Bobges  (PI.  e;  F,  4),  Rua  Garrett  108;  Hot.  Dubano, 
Bna  das  Flores  71  (PI.  E,  4),  an  English  family  hotel  in  a  quiet  situation, 
pens,  from  15(X)  rs. ;  H6t.  de  l'Eobopb,  Rua  do  Garmo  16  (PI.  F,  4),  pens. 
1500  rs. ;  Fbancfobt  Hotel  (PI.  f;  F,  4),  Praja  Dom  Pedro  113 ;  H6t.  Con- 
tinental (PI.  g;  F,  3),  Largo  de  Sao  Domingo  14,  pens,  from  1(XX)  rs. 

Beataurants.  Bettaurant  Chtb.'RnA  Serpa  Pinto  52;  Cafi  Montanha.,  see 
below;  Re$tavrani  Le&o  ctOuro,  Kua  do  Principe  69;  Cc^fi  Electrico^  Rua 
Sao  Juliao  72. 

Oafea  (must  of  them  poorly  equipped).  '*AveHida  Palace  (p.  514),  at 
the  Central  Station;  "^jlfcmtanAa,  Travessa  da  Assumpcao  (PI.  F,  4);  Awea 
e  Peninsular,  RuaAurea  189;  Suisto,  Largo  de  Camoes  7;  Martinho^  Largo 
de  Camoes  and  Praca  do  Commercio.  Luncheon  dishes,  eggs,  beefsteaks 
(bi/e)y  and  the  like  may  be  obtained  at  most  caf^s.  —  Oonfeetloners  (Con- 
feiterias).  Pvcci,  VioleUe,  Rua  de  El  Rey  120  and  182;  Wilmantky,  Rua  de 
Sao  Nicolau. 

Beer  Houaea.  CerveJariaTrindade,  Rua  Nova  da  Trindade  110;  Jamen't 
Bayrische  Bierhalle,  Rua  do  Alecrim  30,  with  a  side-entrance  in  the  Rua 
Antonio  Maria  Cardoso,  near  the  Hdt.  Braganca ;  UniiiQ  Industrial  Lisbonen^, 
Praca  Dom  Pedro  64. 

Tobacco.  Battler,  Rua  de  Sao  Nicolau  110  and  Rua  Aurea  45;  Phoenix^ 
in  the  Avenida  Palace  (see  above);  Tcibaearia  Americana,  Casa^Havaneza^ 
Rua  Garrett  44  and  130. 

Post  Office  iCorreiof  comp.  p.  xix).  The  head  postal  and  telegraph 
office  (PL  P,  5)  is  in  the  Prafa  do  Commercio,  at  the  corner  of  the  Rua 
do  Arsenal.    There  are  also  numerous  branch-offices  (Eita0e»  AuxHiares). 

Oabs  ( Trens  de  Praga)  stand  in  the  principal  squares ;  they  are  elegant 
vehicles  with  two  horses  for  2  and  4  pers.,  but  the  tariff  is  high.  On  getting 
in,  the  hirer  should  demand  a  ticket  (tetijia)  from  the  driyer  (cocheiro), 
and  if  necessary  also  the  tariff  (t<a>ella).    ^mpedido''  means  engaged. 


Per  drive  (por  corrida)  . 
Per  hour  (d»  horas)  .     . 

Two  hours 

Three  hours 

Four  hours 

The  boundary  of  the  old  town  (see  p.  518)  is  the  Esirada  da  Circum- 
vallajao,  including  the  station  of  Alcantara-Mar  (p.  540).  The  limits  of 
the  suburbs  are  Cruz  de  Pedra  on  the  E.  and  Alges  on  the  W.  After  the 
first  hour  each  V4  hr.  is  reckoned  separately.  If  the  cab  be  dismissed 
outside  the  old  town,  the  driver  is  entitled  to  a  return-fare.  At  night 
(1  a.m.  till  sunrise)  the  fares  are  doubled.  Luggage  up  to  66  lbs.  free, 
under  110  lbs.  200 rs.,  over  110  lbs.  400  rs. 

Flya  (Trens  deAluffuir),  with  good  equipments  and  horses,  are  supplied 
for  drives  to  the  theatre,  into  the  country,  and  so  on  by  the  Companhia  de 
CatTuoffens  Lisbonense,  Largo  de  Sao  Roque,  at  a  fixed  tariff.  These  car- 
riages may  also  be  ordered  at  the  hotels  and  ciab-stands. 

The  Inclined  Railways  (Elevadores)  are  a  great  conyenience.  At  present 
there  exist  the  following  lines. 

1.  From  the  Cal^ada  da  Lavra  (PI.  F,  3)  to  the  Travessa  do  Convento 
de  Sant"  Anna,  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Avenida  da  Liberdade.    Fare  20  rs. 

2.  From  the  Cal^ada  da  Gloria  to  the  Rua  de  Sao  Pedro  de  Alcantara 
(PI.  F,  3),  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Av.  da  Liberdade ;  90  rs. 

3.  From  the  Rua  da  Palma  (PI.  G,  3)  to  the  Largo  da  Graca  (PI.  H,  3,  4); 
up  40,  down  20,  up  and  down  60  ra. 

33* 


In  the  old  town 

1   To  the  suburbs 

1-2  pers. 

3-4  pers. 
-500  rs. 

1-2  pers. 

3-4  pers. 

400  rs. 

600  rs. 

700  rs. 

600  „ 

700  „ 

1000  „ 

1200  „ 

1200  I 

1400  I 

1200  I 

1400  I 

1500  „ 

1800  „ 

1500- 

1800  I 

1800  I 

2200  „ 

1800 : 

2200 : 

516   RouU56.  LISBON.  JBatks. 

4.  From  the  Pra^a  de  CamSea  (PI.  E,  4)  to  S»o  Ben  to  (PI.  I>,  3)  and 
Iho  Largo  da  Estn-lla  (PI.  i\  2,  3);  fare  BOw.,  to  Sao  Bento  20  rs.  This 
'elevator*  also  dtopst  at  the  interjection  with  No.  6. 

6.  From  the  Calcada  da  Bica  (Rua  de  Sao  Paulo)  to  the  Rua  da  Bica 
de  Duarte  Bello  (PI.  E,  4)-,  20  rs.,  transfer  ^SSo-Paulo-Estrella'*  50rs. 

Tnuawayt  (Carri*  de  Ferro)  are  numerous.    The  chief  lines  are :  — 

1.  Main  lino  along  the  Tapis  from  the  Rua  CtMnrinhoa  de  Ferro  (TI.  I, 
H,  4)  by  the  Pra^a  do  Commercio  (PI.  F,  5),  or  from  the  EoHo  (PI.  F,  4) 
by  the  Largo  do  Municipio  (PL  F,  5),  to  the  Largo  do  Corpo  Santo  (PI.  E,  5); 
thence  by  the  Lar^^o  do  Conde  BarSo  (PL  D,  4)  and  the  Largo  de  Santos 
(PI.  C.  4)  to  Alcantara  (p.  634),  and  on  to  Bdem  (p.  535),  Pedrou^^o*  (p.  540), 
and  Alaet  (p.  540).  Some  cars  run  to  Alcantara  vial  the  Bua  Vinte  e  Qnatro 
de  .Tulho,  passing  the  Eita^ao  Cau  do  Sodri  and  the  Eti.  de  Santo*  (p.  514; 
outer  line,  comp.  p.  634). 

2.  From  the  Largo  de  Conde  Bardo  (PI.  D,  4)  by  the  Rua  de  Sao  Bento, 
the  Largo  do  Rato  (PI.  D,  1),  the  Largo  do  Principe  Real  (PL  E,  3;,  and  the 
Rua  do  Alecrim  (PI.  F,  2,  3)  to  the  Rocio  (PL  F,  4). 

3.  From  the  Rodo  (PL  F,  4)  or  the  (kOfoda  da  Lavra  (PL  F,  3;  see 
p.  515)  by  the  Largo  do  Intendente  (Pl.G,  2),  Gampo  Pequeno  (bull-ring; 
p.  539),  and  Campo  Grande  to  Lumfar  (p.  589). 

Fare  (prefo  de  pcutagem)  within  the  town  80-50  r?. ;  to  Belem  f 0  (there 
and  I  tack  80),  to  Campo  Grande  80.  to  Lumiar  100  rR. 

BtMunen  (comp.  p.  xyii).  HeUl  lAne^  once  weekly  to  London  in  the 
one  direction  and  to  Gibraltar,  Malaga,  and  Cadis  in  the  other  (agents:, 
£.  Pinto  Basto  k  Co.,  Caes  do  Sodr^  64);  Oldenburg  and  Portugnete  Steam 
Packet  Co.^  once  weekly  to  Oporto,  Brake,  and  Hamburg,  and  once  a  month 
to  Tangier;  Neptune^  to  Oporto,  Antwerp,  and  Bremen;  Oerman  East  Africa 
Line,  to  Naples,  PortSa<^id,  Dar-es-Salaam,  DelagoaBay,  and  NataL  also  to 
Hamburg;  Royal  Mail  Steam  Packet  Co.  (agents,  James  Rawes  A  Ck).,  Rua 
dos  Capellistas  31),  Pacific  Steam  Navigation  Co.  (agents,  Basto  &  Co.,  see 
above) ,  the  Hamburg  A  Sovih  American  Steam  Packet  Co.  (agent,  E.  George, 
Rua  Bella  da  Rainha  8),  and  the  Chargewi  Ritinii  (agent,  F.  Garay,  Largo 
do  Municipio  19),  all  for  8.  America;  Empreza  Nadonat  de  NavegagOo,  for 
Madeira  and  W.  Africa.  —  Local  Btaamerg  (Vaporos  Lisbonente*)  ply  on 
the  Tagus  from  the  Caee  do  Sodri  (PL  E,  5)  to  Cacithae  (p.  540;  every 
40  min. ;  fare  50  rs.)  and  from  the  Pro  fa  do  Commereio  (PL  F,  5)  to  BarrHro 
(p.  516;  almost  hourly;  there  and  back  200 rs.). 


Baths  (Bahhos).  Warm  Baths  at  the  Hdtel  Central  (p.  515)  and  at  Rua 
Nova  de  SSo  Dom'ngos  22  (price  400-COO  rf?.).  —  Alkaline  -  Saline  Bath:?: 
Alca^arias  do  Duqve,  Aka^arias  de  Santa  Clara,  Rua  do  Terreiro  do  Trigo  56 
and  64,  —  Several  sulphur-springs  rise  within  the  town-limits  and  are 
used  at  the  Ban?ios  do  Arsenal  de  Marinha  or  de  SHo  Pavlo^  Beco  do  Carvalho  8, 
and  elsewhere.  —  Sea  Bathing  may  be  enjoyed  at  the  CJutlet  Balnear,  Caes 
do  Sodre,  and  also  at  Ettoril,  Ccucaee,  and  the  other  resorts  mentioned  r.t 
pp.  540,  oil.  During  the  bathing  sea<^on  (estagao  dos  banhot;  Aug.  15th 
to  Oct.  31st)  thousands  of  Lisboners  visit  these  places  every. day.  In  the 
vicinity  of  the  town  the  water  of  the  Tagus  is  not  very  clean. 

Phyaioiana.  Curry  Cdbral,  Rua  Eduardo  Coelho  1;  Mattos  Chaves,  Rua 
Capello  6;  Lahmeyer,  Rua  de  Santissima  Trindade  56;  Oodinho,  Rua  Gar- 
rett 62.  —  DrugrgUta  (Pkarmdcias).  Azevedo,  Estado,  Praja  Dom  Pedro  31 
and  59. 

Booksellers  (Livrarias).  Lewtas,  Rua  do  Carmo  26  (English  books);  M. 
Gomes.,  Rua  Garrett  70;  Ferin.,  Rua  Hova  do  Almada.  —  Photographs. 
Rocchini  (Italian),  TravesFa  da  Agua  de  Flor  1  (2nd  floor),  excellent  views 
of  Lisbon,  Coimbra,  Alcoba§a,  Batalha,  etc. ;  Camacho,  Rua  Nova  do  Al- 
mada 116. 

The  Shops  generally  contain  foreign  goods  (comp.  p.  xxiii).  The  Portu- 
guese Louga  Ware,  a  kind  of  majolica,  often  very  artistically  coloured,  is 
sold  by  A.  J.  Oongalves,  Rua  dos  Romulares  16;  Drummond  Castle,  Pracs 
dos  Restauradores  57 ;  Armcusem  Caldense,  Rua  dos  Sapateiros  104;  Machado 
&  Co.,  Rua  do  Arsenal  126. 


Theatres,  LISBON.  55.  Route.   5  1 7 

Bankers.  London  A  Brazilian  Bank  Ltd.^  Banco  Liriw*  «  Azores ^  Marx, 
Weifutein.  &  Co.,  Ru»  de  El  Rey  Ce,  158,  and  49;  Credito  Franco-Portvgwz, 
Rua  da  Conceioao  92. 

Oooda  Agenta.  E.  George,  Rua  Bella  da  Rainha  8;  F.  Qanxg,  I.argo  do 
Municipio  19;  Miguel  Stockier  (for  Spain),  Rua  dos  Bacalhoeiros  80. 

Embasaies.  Great  Britain,  Rua  de  Sao  Francisico  de  Borja  63  (Sir  H. 
G.  MacDonell,  K.C.M.G.,  O.B.).  United  States  of  America  (Son,  Laurence 
Toumsend). 

Ooniulatea.  Great  Britain,  Frank  H.  Cowper.  United  States  of  America, 
John  B.   Wilbor. 

English  Church,  beside  the  English  Cemetery  (PI.  C,  2);  chaplain, 
Beo.  Canon  Dodt,  D.  D.  —  Seottish  Free  Ohuroh,  Rua  das  Janellas  Verdas 
(PL  C,  4)  i  minister.  Rev.  R.  Stewart. 


Theatres.  In  the  larger  theatres  performances  take  place  in  winter 
only  (end  of  Oct.  to  March).  The  equipment  and  prices  are  similar  to 
those  of  Madrid.  Frisa$  are  fitage  boxes  \  eamarotea,  boxes  (de  primeira, 
tegunda,  or  terceira  ordem);  cadeiras,  parquet  or  stalls;  platia  geral,  pit  or 
paiterre.  —  *Real  Theatro  de  Sdo  Carlos  (PI.  E,  F,  4,  5),  Largo  deSao  Carlos, 
a  large  and  sumptuous  edifice,  built  by  Jot4  de  Costa  in  1792-93  after  the 
model  of  the  Scala  of  Milan,  for  Italian  opera  and  ballet.  Over  the  vesti* 
bule  is  a  concert-hall.  During  the  carnival  the  stage  and  auditorium  are 
converted  into  a  vast  ball-room.  Frisas  10,000,  camarotes  4000-12,000,  ca- 
deiras  1500,  platea  geral  12C0  rs.  —  "Real  Theatro  de  Dona  Maria  Segun da 
fPl.  F,  3),  Praca  de  Dom  Pedro,  built  in  1842-46  by  Fortunato  Lodi^  for 
Portuguese  dramas  and  comedies;  prices  about  60  per  cent  lower  than 
the  above  (cadeiras  800  rs.).  —  Theatro  da  Trirtdade  (PL  F,  4),  Rua  da  Trin- 
dade  (1867),  for  comedies  and  operettas;  cadeiras  BOO  rs.  —  TJteatro  de 
Bona  Amelia  (PL  E,  F,  4,  5),  Rua  Antonio  Maria  Cardoso,  alternating  per- 
formances of  Spanish,  Italian,  and  French  comedies  and  operett;  s. 

Circuses.  Coliseu  dos  Recreiot  (PI.  F,  3),  Rua  de  Santo  Antao,  cadeiras 
600  rs. ;  Real  Coliseu  de  Lisboa  (PL  G,  8),  Rua  da  Palma. 

Bull  Ring  {Praga  dos  Touros;  to  the  N.  of  PL  G,  1),  Praca  do  Campo 
Peqneno,  on  tramwi-^y-line  No.  3  fp.  616).  Bull-fights  (p.  EOS)  are  held,  in 
summer  only  (Apr.-Sept.),  on  Sun.  at  4  p.m.  and  often  on  Thurs.  also. 

Street  Scenes.  The  habits  of  the  people  may  be  best  observed  on  the 
Caes  das  Columnas,  the  Caes  do  Sodri.  and  other  places  adjoining  the  river, 
and  in  the  early  morning  at  the  Markets  (pp.  621,  534).  The  principal 
resorts  of  the  fashionable  world  (especially  on  Thurs.  and  San.)  are  the 
Rua  de  Garret,  the  Rua  do  Carmo  and  Rua  Nova  do  Almada  (both  descend- 
ing to  the  Baixa,  p.  5lS),  the  Rva  Avrea,  the  Frafa  de  Dom  Pedro,  and 
the  Avenida  da  Liberdade.  The  Aterro  (p.  5i54)  and  the  Pfaga  do  Commercio 
are  also  much  frequented  on  summer-evenings.     Campo  Grande^  see  p.  539. 

Diary.    The  Churches  are  open  7-10  a.m.,  the  Cathedral  till  1  p.m. 
Archivo  Oeral  do  RHno  (p.  527),  daily,  9-2 ;  ^permissao'  obtained  to  the  left 

of  the  main  entrance. 
BU>liotheca  da  Academia  Real  das  Sciencias  (p.  627)i  on  week-days,  10-3. 


Botanical  Garden  of  the  Potptechnic  (p.  526),  daily;  free. 
Mae  d'Agua  (p.  525),  daily;  for  a  gratuity. 
Museu  Archeologico  fp.  522),  daily,  10-4 ;  100  rs. 

—  de  Artilheria  (p.  o30),  daily ;  free. 

—  Colonial  (p.  524),  Wed.,  10  8;  free. 

—  Industrial  e  Commercial  (p.  588),  daily,  10-4 ;  free. 

—  Nacioma  de  Bellas  Artes  Q).  532),  daily,  12.304;  free  on  Sun.,  at  other 
times  fee  (also  for  strangers  before  and  after  the  above  hours). 

—  Naval  (p.  531),  daily;  fee. 

Among  the  numerous  beautiful  Potnts  op  Vikw,  perhaps  the  finest 
are  the  grounds  of  SOo  Pedro  de  Alcdntara  (p.  524),  the  dome  of  the  Estrella 
Church  (p.  526),  Nossa  Senhora  da  Graga  (p.  529),  and  Nossa  Senhora  do 
Monte  (p.  529).  The  best  views  of  Lisbon  itself  are  obtained  on  the  ferry 
to  Cacilhas  and  firom  AJmada  (p.  640). 


518   Route  55,  LISBON.  Situation. 

Principal  AttraetioiiB  (four  days),  lat  Day.  In  the  morning :  Pra^a 
do  Commercio  ijt.  520);  Roc{o  (p.  621);  Avenida  da  Liberdade  (p.  522);  *Aia- 
meda  ds  Sdo  Pedro  de  Alcantara  (p.  624) ;  Sdo  Roqve  (p.  524) ;  Rua  OarreU 
(p.  &22).  Aflemoon:  Pirofa  de  LuiM  de  Camdes  (p.  &23);  JBt'reUa  Ch$n-€h 
(p.  5'26);  Cemiterio  doe  Jngletee  (p.  626);  CemiUrio  Allemdo  (p.  526);  .JTSe 
ifAgua  (p.  526);  *BoUmic  Garden  (p.  526).  —  2nd  Day.  Morning:  Gzcnr- 
Aion  to  Coeilhae  and  Almada  (p.  640);  S^  Pairiarehai  (p.  527).  Afternoon: 
Cantello  de  Sao  Jorge  (p.  6^);  Bao  Vicente  (p.  629);  Noeea  Senhora  da 
Grata  (p.  629);  Noeea  Senhora  do  Monte  (p.  629),  —  3rd  Day.  ^Belem  (p.  535) ; 
Torre  de  Belem  (p.  538) :  visit  from  Ptdroufoe  (p.  610)  to  Mont  d*JBetortl 
and  Caeeaes  (p.  oil).  —  4th  Day.    Excarsion  to  *  Cintra  (p.  642). 

Lisbon,  PoTtugueBe  Liahda,  the  capital  of  Portugal  and  tbe  see 
of  an  archbishop,  is  an  important  commercial  town  with  307,700  in- 
hab.,  situated  in  38*»42'7"  N.  lat.  and  9«6'7"  W.  long,  on  the  ca- 
pacious Bay  of  ike  Tagus  (p.  513),  whicb  here  contracts  to  a  width  of 
about  1-2  M.  Lisbon  is  often  called  the  most  beautiful  city  of  Europe 
after  Constantinople  and  Naples,  and  an  old  saying  asserts  ^quan 
ndo  v6  LUboQy  ndo  vS  couaa  boa'  Qhe  who  bas  not  seen  Lisbon  does 
not  know  what  beauty  is').  However  this  may  be,  everyone  will 
willingly  allow  that  nature  and  man  have  here  coSperated  to  great 
advantage,  and  that  the  city,  in  spite  of  the  absence  of  a  mountain 
background  or  distinguished  buildings,  possesses  a  beauty  of  its  own 
In  the  picturesque  disposition  of  its  terraces,  its  view  of  tbe  wide 
expansion  of  tbe  Tagus,  and  the  luxuriant  vegetation  of  iU  public 
gardens  and  parks. 

Most  of  the  town  is  spread  over  the  low  eminences  (ca.  300  ft.), 
which  form  the  S.  margin  of  the  calcareous  and  basaltic  plateau  of 
Estremadura.  LisboaObibntal,  or  the  old  town,  still  preserving  some 
scanty  relics  of  the  Moorish  period,  nestles  round  the  foot  of- the 
ColUna  do  CcuieUo  on  the  E.  and  stretches  tbence  to  the  N.E.  over 
the  heights  of  8flo  Ftcentf,  Nosaa  Senhora  da  Ora^a^  and  Noasa  Sen- 
hora da  Periha  da  Franca.  Lisboa  Occidental,  the  modern  Lisbon 
proper,  occupies  the  W.  bills  of  Nossa  Senhora  das  Cha^as^  Sdo 
Roque,  and  Santa  Caiharina ,  and  also  the  double  ridge  of  Buenos 
Ayres,  beyond  the  depression  marked  by  the  Rua  de  Sao  Bento.  In 
the  hollow  between  the  new  and  old  towns  lies  the  Cidadb  Baixa 
or  Central,  wbich  has  been  rebuilt  since  the  earthquake  of  1765 ; 
and  with  this  goes  the  N.  height  of  Sant'  Anna.  The  sides  of  all 
these  hills  fall  very  abruptly  to  the  Tagus  and  the  Baixa,  and  the 
massive  houses  which  cover  and  cling  to  them  look  almost  as  if  built 
one  on  the  top  of  another. 

'Lisbon  is  said  to  be  built  on  the  same  number  of  hills  with  old 
Rome;  but  these  do  not  all  appear  to  the  water;  on  the  contrary,  one 
sees  from  thence  one  vast  high  hill  and  rock,  with  buildings  rising  above 
one  another,  and  that  in  fo  steep  and  almost  perpendicular  a  manner,  that 
they  all  seem  to  have  but  one  foundation''  {Henry  Fieldmg''e  ^Journal  of  a 
Voyage  to  Lisbon'). 

According  to  this  older  division  of  the  city  into  three  districts 
(secQffes  or  bairros),  Lisboa  Oriental  ended  on  the  E.  at  tbe  Porta  da 
Cruz  de  Pedra,  while  Lisboa  Occidental  extended  on  the  W.  to  the 
''eep  bed  of  tbe  Alcantora.     The  totsd  area  of  the  dty  was  about 


Climate.  LISBON.  55,  Route.   519 

3830  acres,  and  on  the  landward  side  it  was  bounded  by  the  Estrada 
da  CircumvalloQdo^  extending  in  a  semicircle  from  the  Porta  de  Al- 
cantara to  the  Porta  da  Cruz  de  Pedra.  In  1886  the  city-limits  were 
extended  so  as  to  include  the  suburbs  of  Alcantara,  Junqueira,  Belem^ 
and  PedrouQoSf  all  situated  to  the  W.  of  the  Alcantara  and  hitherto 
reckoned  as  belonging  to  the  ''Termo  de  Lisboa'.  The  Chellas  was 
fixed  as  the  E.  boundary  of  the  city,  and  the  'military  road'  from 
Bemfica  to  Lumiar  as  its  N.  boundary.  Buenos  Ayres  was  detached 
from  Lisboa  Occidental  and  united  with  these  W.  suburbs  to  form  a 
fourth  district.  The  city  has  now  a  total  area  of  32,000  acres  (60  sq.  M,) 
and  extends  along  the  Tagus  for  more  than  6  M.  To  the  Termo  de 
Lisboa  belong  also  the  N.E.  suburban  districts  of  Xahregas,  Orilos^ 
ChellaSy  Popo  do  Bispo,  OlivaeSj  and  Sacavtm  (p.  613).  The  thickly 
settled  parts  of  the  city  are  confined  to  the  bank  of  the  Tagus  and 
the  heights  above  it;  on  the  land-side  it  straggles  ofif  towards  the 
plateau  of  Estremadura  in  long  roads  bordered  with  villas,  and 
gardens. 

Lisbon  is  now  one  of  the  cleanest  towns  of  Europe,  though  at 
the  beginning  of  this  cent,  it  was  notorious  for  its  dilapidation,  in- 
security, and  dirt  (comp.  'Childe  Harold's  Pilgrimage',  I.  17).  An 
excellent  system  of  drainage  carries  off  the  sewage  into  the  depths 
of  the  Tagus,  a  new  aqueduct  (p.  530)  provides  the  town  with  abun- 
dant drinking-water  and  feeds  its  innumerable  fountains  (chafari- 
zas).  The  new  Estrada  Militar  or  Estrada  da  Nova  Circumvalla^So 
(26  M.  long),  with  the  forts  of  Caxias,  Af orwanto,  Ameixoeira^  and 
Sa^avem,  supplements  the  older  and  partly  decayed  works  oil  the 
Tagus  and  the  fortifications  at  its  mouth  (p.  541).  —  The  trade  of 
Lisbon,  largely  in  the  hands  of  the  British,  German,  and  other  for- 
eigners, is  very  important,  and  in  1891  its  harbour  was  entered  and 
cleared  by  about  2300  vessels,  with  a  total  burden  of  3,260,000  tons. 
A  considerable  expansion  of  its  commerce  is  anticipated  from  the 
extensions  of  the  harbour  begun  in  1887,  which  are  to  include  a 
huge  quay  stretching  from  the  Cruz  da  Pedra  to  the  Alcantara 
(3V3  M.)»  *^  outer  harbour,  and  five  capacious  docks. 

The  most  favourable  season  for  a  visit  to  Lisbon  is  autumn  or, 
still  better,  spring,  when  the  parks,  meadows,  and  orchards  are 
clothed  in  their  freshest  green.  In  winter  sudden  alterations  of 
temperature  are  not  uncommon,  in  spite  of  the  mildness  of  the 
climate;  and  in  summer  the  heat  of  the  sun  is  very  trying,  even 
though  the  nights  are  as  a  rule  comparatively  cool. 

In  antiquity  Lisbon  plays  but  a  scanty  rdle.  Under  the  Homan.s  Oti- 
»ipo  was  named  Felidtas  JuUa  and  became  a  municipium,  but  Merida 
(p.  455)  was  the  capital  of  Lusitania.  From  407  to  585  it  was  occupied  by 
the  Alans,  and  from  585  to  715  by  the  Visigoths.  After  the  battle  of  Jerez 
(p.  429;  711)  it  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Moors,  who  called  it  Aloshbvna  or 
XuA&fma.  In  1147  it  was,  however,  retaken  by  Affonso  ffenriquet^  who  was 
aided  by  an  army  of  Crusaders  on  their  way  to  Palestine.  The  bulk  of  these 
crusaders  were  Englishmen^  and  thus  the  siege  of  Lisbon  is  doubly  in- 
teresting because  it  was  *the  first  instance  of  the  close  connection  between 


520  BouU66.  LISBON.  History, 

the  two  nations  (England  and  Portugal)  which  has  lasted  down  to  the 
present  centary'  (H.  M.  Siephetu).  At  this  time  the  town  was  confined  io 
the  hill  now  occupied  by  Lisboa  Oriental,  along  with  a  strong  Alcazar. 
The  king  and  the  Portuguese  army  encamped  to  the  B.,  on  tke  site  now 
marked  by  the  church  of  SSo  Vicente  de  Fora  (^without  the  walls') ;  the 
Crusaders  occupied  the  W.  hill  of  the  present  Lisboa  Occidental,  then  called 
MonU  FragoMo. 

The  importance  of  Lisbon  began  under  Ajff'onso  III.^  who  transferred 
the  royal  residence  hither  from  Coimbra  (1260).  The  great  discoveries 
made  by  the  Portuguese  at  the  end  of  the  IMh  cent,  and  later,  tlie  con- 
quest of  India  by  Franeisco  tTAlmeida  (d.  1510)  and  4/fDiuo  de  Albuqverqve 
(1453-1515)  issued  to  the  especial  adrantage  of  the  capital,  which  quickly 
became  the  richest  town  in  Europe.  The  sixty  years  of  Spanish  dominion 
(1680-1640),  the  defeats  of  the  Spanish  and  Portuguese  fleets  in  the  war 
with  Holland,  the  loss  of  India  were  all  hard  blows  for  Lisbon. 

The  Great  Earthquake  of  Lisbon  (Soy.  1st,  1755)  laid  half  the  city  in 
ruins  and  caused  the  death  of  30-40,000  persons.  It  was  accompanied  by 
a  tidal  wave,  which  swept  the  quays  and  wrecked  the  shipping,  and  it 
was  followed  by  destructiye  flres.  The  material  loss  was  estimated  at 
20,000,0001.  The  shock  of  the  earthquake  was  perceptible  in  ScoUand, 
Morocco,  and  Asia  Minor.  The  most  imposing  figure  in  this  disastrous 
epoch  is  the  Marquis  of  Pombal,  the  powerful  minister  of  Joseph  I.  (1750-77) 
and  in  spite  of  many  errors  one  of  the  greatest  men  of  his  century,  who 
tried  to  eleyate  Portugal  in  the  spirit  of  an  enlightened  absolutism  and 
introduced  a  strict  observance  of  the  so-called  'mercantile  system'  or  'ba- 
lance of  trade'.  When  King  Joseph  asked  him  after  the  earthquake  what 
was  to  be  done,  he  answered  laconically:  *Sire,  bury  the  dead  and  take 
care  of  the  living'. 

The  beginning  of  the  19th  cent,  brought  the  French  invasion,  the  re- 
moval of  the  royal  residence  to  Rio  de  Janeiro,  the  Peninsxdar  War,  the 
loss  of  Brazil,  and  the  utter  decadence  of  Lisbon.  Since  the  6nd  of  the 
period  of  revolutions,  which  lasted  till  about  the  middle  of  the  century, 
Lisbon  has  again  risen  from  a  state  of  decay  to  be  a  preat  and  handsome 
city.  Not  a  little  of  this  regeneration  is  due  to  the  initiative  of  the  German 
Prince  F'erdinand  of  8axe-Cobwff.  consort  of  Queen  Maria  II.  ^  and  to  his 
sons ,  Peter  V.  (1863-61)  and  Louis  I.  (1861-88). 

The  AnuoBiAL  Bxajungs  of  the  city,  representing  a  sailing  ship  with 
two  ravens,  refer  to  the  bringing  of  the  remains  of  St.  Vincent  (d.  304) 
by  Affonso  Henriques.  On  the  invasion  of  the  Moors  the  body  of  the 
saint  was  removed  from  Valencia  to  Cape  Sao  Vicente  (the  *holy  cape'), 
and  there  guarded  by  ravens.  Bavens  are  also  said  to  have  accompanied 
the  vessel  on  the  voyage  to  Lisbon ;  and  until  quite,  recently  a  number 
of  these  birds  were  kept  in  the  cloisters  of  the  cathedral  (p.  528),  neair 
the  tomb  of  the  saint. 


a.  Cidade  Baiza,  Lisboa  Occidental,  and  Buenos  Ayres. 

Nearly  all  the  public  buildings  of  Lisbon  were  rebuilt  by  Santos 
de  Carvalho  after  the  earthquake  of  1765.  Most  of  them  adjoin  the 
pRA9A  DO  CoMMEBCio  (Pi.  F,  5),  whlch  WES  formerly  named  the  Ter- 
rdro  do  Poqo  after  the  royal  palace  of  'Pagos  da  Ribeira',  destroyed 
by  the  earthquake.  It  is  called  by  the  English  Black  Horse  Square. 
On  the  E.  are  the  Bolsa  or  exchange  (business-hour  3-4)  and  the 
Alfdndega  or  custom-house  (p.  531).  On  the  N.  are  the  Mimsterio 
do  Reino  and  the  Ministerio  de  Justi^a  e  Negocios  Ecclesidsticos  (min- 
istries of  the  interior  and  of  justice),  the  Supremo  Tribunal  or  su- 
preme court,  and  the  Junta  do  Credito  Publico  or  office  of  the  national 
debt.  To  the  W.  are  the  Ministries  of  Public  Works  (das  Obras  Pub- 


CidadeBaixa.  LISBON.  55.  Route.   621 

Ucaajy  of  the  Exterior  (doa  Negoeios  Estrangdros),  of  Finance  (da 
Fazenda)y  and  of  War  (da  Querra),  and  also  the  Po9i  ^  Telegraph 
Office  (p.  515).  —  On  the  S.  side  the  square  is  open  to  the  Tagas. 
The  Cae$  de  Columnas,  with  its  two  marble  columns,  affords  the  best 
view  of  the  shipping  in  the  bay  and  of  the  farther  shore  (Outra 
Banda),  with  the  castle  of  Palmella  (p.  546)  in  the  distance.  Many 
ships  and  thousands  of  men  were  engulfed  here  in  a  whirlpool  oc- 
casioned by  the  Great  Earthquake.  —  The  Equestrian  Statute  of  Jo^ 
aeph  /.,  by  Joaquim  Machado  de  Castro,  was  erected  to  the  king  by 
his  grateful  people  in  1775;  on  the  S.  side  of  the  pedestal  is  a  me- 
dallion of  the  Marquis  de  Pombal. 

To  the  N.  of  the  Pra^a  do  Commercio  lies  the  regularly  built 
Cidade  Baizft  (^lower  town'),  the  site  of  which  was  probably  once 
an  inlet  of  the  Tagus,  with  a  stream  flowing  into  it  on  the  N.  Its 
three  main  streets  are  the  Rua  d'Ouro  (Hua  Aurea),  the  Rua  Augv>8ta, 
and  the  Rua  da  Prata  (Rua  Bella  da  Rainlia).  We  enter  the  Rua 
Augusta,  the  midmost  of  these  streets,  by  the  Arco  Mormmental  da 
Rua  Augustaj  a  large  and  somewhat  clumsy  structure  with  a  clock 
and  statues  of  Viriathus,  Vasco  da  Gama,  Nuno  Alvares  Pereira 
(p.  555),  and  Pombal.  In  the  first  cross-street,  the  Rua  Nova  de  El 
Rey  or  dos  Capellistas,  are  the  offices  of  the  i;nerchants ,  shipping 
companies,  and  the  like.  Pombal's  plan  was  to  limit  the  different 
occupations  to  special  streets;  thus  the  Rua  d'Ouro  and  the  Rua  da 
Prata  were  intended  for  the  goldsmiths  and  silversmiths,  the  Rua 
Augusta  for  the  cloth-dealers.  As  we  proceed  through  the  Baixa  we 
enjoy  interesting  glimpses  to  the  right  and  left  of  Lisboa  Oriental, 
with  the  cathedral  and  the  castle  of  St.  George,  and  of  the  piled-up 
houses  of  Lisboa  Occidental,  with  the  church  of  the  Carmo.  —  At 
the  N.  end  of  the  Rua  Aurea  and  the  Rua  Augusta  lies  the  — 

PBA9A  DB  DoM  Pedbo  Quabto  (pi.  F,  4),  generally  known  as 
0  Roc(Oj  with  its  two  bronze  fountains  and  a  lofty  column  topped 
by  a  Statue  of  Peter  IV,  (p.  576).  On  the  base  of  this  monument, 
which  was  erected  by  two  Frenchmen,  Robert  and  DabieuXy  in  1870, 
are  figures  of  the  four  cardinal  virtues.  The  mosaic  pavement  of 
the  square  is  laid  in  a  curious  undulatory  pattern,  from  which  the 
British  sailors  call  the  Rocfo  *Roly-poly  Square'.  —  Immediately  to 
the  E.  of  the  Rocio  is  the  Pra^a  da  Figueira  (PI.  F,  4),  the  Mercado 
in  which  offers  a  busy  scene  from  6  to  10  a.m. 

The  Theatro  de  Dona  Maria  Segwnda  (p.  517),  at  the  N.  end  of 
the  Rocfo,  occupies  the  site  of  the  ^Pa^o  dos  Estaos\  the  home  of 
the  Inquisition  from  1534  to  1820,  which  was  destroyed  by  the  Great 
Earthquake  in  1755  and  again  by  fire  in  1836.  The  pediment,  con- 
taining various  sculptures,  is  surmounted  by  a  statue  of  Oil  Vicente 
(d.  ca.  1536),  the  earliest  dramatist  of  Portugal. 

Proceeding  to  the  W.  from  the  theatre,  across  the  Largo  de  Ca- 
moes  and  through  the  Rua  do  Principe,  with  the  imposing  Central 
Railway  Station  and  the  Avenida  Hotel  (p.  514),  we  reach  the  — 


522  RouU  55.  LISBON.  Igreja  do  Carmo. 

*AT«iid*  da  liberdade  (PL  F,  E,  3, 1),  an  exteneWe  and  shady 
promenade,  affording  charming  yiews  of  tie  neiglibonHiig  heights. 
At  its  beginning  stands  the  MonumerUo  doa  Restauradores  de  Portugal^ 
an  obelisk  98  ft.  high,  erected  in  1882  to  commemorate  the  rising 
of  Dec.  Ifit,  1640,  by  which  the  yoke  of  the  Spanish  *Intrasos'  was 
thrown  off  and  an  end  put  to  the  'sixty  years'  slavery'.  At  the  base 
are  bronze  figures  of  Victory  and  the  Genius  of  Liberty.  —  Incimed 
Bailway  (No.  2)  to  the  Alcantara  Park,  see  p.  515. 

IHCLIXED  Railw-at  Ko.  1,  Oil  the  £.  si'le  of  the  Avenida,  leads  to  the 
Trayessa  du  Convento  de  Sant*  Anna,  a  few  yards  to  the  X.E.  of  which 
lies  the  spacious  Campo  dos  Maettkes  da  Patkia  (PI.  F,  G,  2),  once  the 
great  rag-fair  of  Lisbon.  To  the  S.  of  the  Campo  stand  the  new  E*cola 
Medtea  (PI.  O,  2),  with  an  anatomical  museum,  and  the  Hospitai  de  SSo 
Jos4  (PI.  O,  3),  occupying  the  buildings  of  the  former  Jesuit  college  of 
Santo  Antao,  built  in  1757.  The  Church  of  this  college,  built  in  1579-1652 
from  the  design  of  an  Italian  named  Filippo  Terzi  but  seriously  damaged 
by  the  earthquake  of  1756,  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  Benaiasance  struc- 
tures in  Portugal.  The  BotpUal  de  RUhafoUe*  or  do*  Alienado*  (PI.  F,  G,  1), 
to  the  N.  of  the  Campo,  was  opened  for  the  insane  in  1838.  —  From  the 
Campo  to  the  Bull  Rlng^  see  p.  516. 

In  the  Payo  da  Rainha(Pl.  O,  2),  leading  to  theKE.  from  the  Campo 
dos  Hartyres,  is  the  Falact  of  Bempotta^  built  by  Catharine  of  Braganza 
(p.  538),  who  died  here  in  1705.  It  is  now  a  military  school.  ITie  English 
arms  are  carved  over  the  entrance. 

In  the  extreme  N.  of  Lisbon,  *Ia  M.  from  the  end  of  the  Ay.  de  la 
Liberdade,  lies  the  large  Fenittnciaria  Central^  built  in  1874-85  and  com- 
manding an  extensive  view. 

We  now  return  to  the  Rocfo  (p.  521)  and  ascend  thence  to  the 
S.W.,  through  the  busy  Rua  do  Cabmo  (PI.  F,  4),  with  its  tempting 
shops.  At  the  top  it  meets  the  Rua  Nova  do  Almada^  coining  from 
the  Largo  do  Municipio  (p.  531)  to  the  S.  From  the  junction  the 
Rua  Garrett  (PI.  F,  4;  formerly  Rua  do  Chiado),  named  after  the 
poet  Garrett  (p.  578),  leads  to  the  W.  It  is  the  most  animated  street 
in  Lisbon,  containing  many  shops  and  the  hotels  mentioned  at  p.  515. 
—  On  the  W.  it  ends  at  the  Largo  das  Duas  Egrejas  (Pi.  F,  4), 
with  the  Italian  Church  of  Loreto  to  the  right  and  the  church  of  Nossa 
Senhora  da  EncamoQcto  to  the  left.  The  latter,  founded  in  1698,  de- 
stroyed in  1755,  rebuilt  in  1784,  and  restored  in  1873,  contains 
some  fine  ceiling-paintings  and  a  beautiful  statue  of  the  Virgin  by 
J,  Machado  de  Castro  (1803;  at  the  high-altar). 

From  the  Rua  Garrett  the  Calgada  do  Sacramento  leads  to  the  N. 
to  the  Largo  do  Carmo  (PI.  F,  4),  with  a  large  fountain.  On  the  E. 
side  of  this  square  stands  the  Gothic  ♦Igpreja  do  Carmo  or  Nossa  Sen- 
hora  do  Vencimento,  dedicated  to  the  Virgin  of  Mount  Carmel  and 
erected  by  Nunc  Alvares  Pereira  in  1389-1423,  in  fulfilment  of  a  vow 
made  on  the  field  of  Aljubarrota  (p.  555).  The  earthquake  of  1755 
destroyed  the  whole  building,  except  the  outer  walls,  the  fine  pil- 
lars, and  the  apse  (capella  mdrj.  It  stands  on  massive  substructures 
of  masonry,  which  gave  way  twice  during  the  erection  of  the  apse. 
The  door  on  the  left  side  of  the  transept  leads  into  the  Convento  do 
Carmo,  secularized  in  1834. 

Ihis  church  now  contains  the  ArchseologicalMiiBeum  (adm., 


Archaeolog,  Museum.         LISBON.  55.  Route.   523 

see  p.  517;  catalogue  150  rs.),  asome^nrhat  miscellaneous  collection 
of  prehistoric,  Roman,  and  Portuguese  antiquities,  models,  sarco- 
phagi, statues,  musical  instruments,  and  minerals. 

Nave.  Gargoyle  (fforguXa)  from  Goimbra;  fountain,  In  the  Moorish 
style,  from  the  old  convent  of  Penha  Longa;  Arab  marble  basin  from 
Asamor;  Greek  statne  of  a  priestess;  pelourinho  (p.  531)  from  Couto 
d^Evora;  Roman  sarcophagus  with  the  Muses. 

Transept.    Font;  window  from  Belem. 

Choir.  2306.  Sarcophagus  ofGon^alo  de  Sousa  (i5thcent.);  2313.  Cel 
ebrated  Hebrew  Inscription  from  the  Convento  de  Monchique  in  Oporto  j 
2302. -Sarcophagus  of  the  Infante  Dom  Sancho,  son  of  King  Denis  (Diniz) : 
*2300,  2301.  Barcophagus  of  Ferdinand  /.(1376);  2304.  Sarcophagus  of  Prin- 
cess Constanga,  moiher  of  Ferdinand  I.;  2291-99.  Marble  figures  (Maria  I., 
Europe,  Asia,  Africa,  and  America)  and  reliefs  by  Jos6  Antonio  d'Aguiar, 
originally  intended  for  a  monumeot  to  Queen  Maria  I.  in  front  of  the 
Estrella  Church  (p.  526) {  2321.  Painted  statue  of  Affonfo  YI. 

Side  Chafel  to  the  biqht  of  the  Chois.  In  the  case  at  the  end: 
2391.  Crucifixion,  a  relief  of  the  16th  cent.;  2393.  Etruscan  skull  from 
Mazzaboto;  2398.  Head  of  Pope  John  XXII.  (d.  1384),  carved  in  wood; 
2463.  Head  of  an  Apostle.  —  In  Central  Case  A :  Faience  and  porcelain. 
—  Case  B:  Chinese  musical  instruments.  —  CaseE:  Coina  and  medals.  — 
In  the  window-recess :  2324.  Reproduction  in  wood  of  the  tomb  of  Nuno 
Alvares  Pereira  (d.  1430;  see  p.  522),  desfroyed  in  1755. 

FiBST  Side  Chapel  to  the  left  of  the  Choib,  now  the  meeting-place 
of  the  'Real  Associa^ao  dos  Architectoa  Civis  e  Archeologos  Portuguezes\ 
On  the  walls :  portraits  of  Portuguese  architects  and  archseologists ;  view 
of  Lisbon  in  lo50.  —  The  cases  contain  remains  of  weapons,  implements, 
skulls,  and  bones  of  the  stone  and  bronze  ages. 

Second  Side  Chapel  to  the  left.  Two  Roman  mosaic  pavements; 
models  and  pland  of  towns  and  buildings.  —  The  cabinets  contain  pre- 
historic bones  (1.  Skull  of  a  cave-bear,  Ursas  Speleeu?),  a  collection  of 
seals,  and  a  collection  of  minerals.  ^  In  the  glass-cases  are  two  well- 
preserved  mummies  from  Pern.  —  On  the  table  in  the  middle  are  Mexican 
antiquities  (353-355.  Figures  of  kings). 

From  the  Kua  Garrett  (p.  622)  the  Rua  Ivens  leads  to  the  S.  to 
the  Laboo  da  Bibliothbca  (PI.  F ,  4 ,  5).  On  the  E.  side  of  this 
square,  in  an  old  Franciscan  convent,  is  the  — 

Bibliothbca  Publica,  founded  in  1796  and  now  containing 
400,000  printed  vols.,  7300  MSS.,  a  cahinet  of  coins,  and  a  marble 
statue  of  Queen  Maria  I.  by  J.  Machado  de  Castro.  Adm.,  see  p.  617. 

Among  the  MSS.  is  a  folio  Hebrew  Bible  of  1299.  —  The  Phinted  Books 
include  the  first  Mayence  impression  of  OtUenberg's  Bible;  Cicero's  Litterae 
ad  Familiare$,  printed  at  Venice  in  1469 ;  a  Vita  Christi,  printed  at  Lisbon 
in  1496;  and  the  first  edition  oi  TJie  Lusiads  of  Camoens  (1572). 

In  the  N.W.  part  of  the  Franciscan  convent  is  the  Oovemo  Civil 
(PI.  F,  4),  including  the  headquarters  of  the  police.  Opposite,  in 
the  Largo  Sao  Carlos,  is  the  Theatro  de  SSo  Carlos  (p.  517),  and 
adjacent,  in  the  Rua  Antonio  Maria  Cardoso  is  the  Theatro  de  Dona 
AmeUa  (p.  517). 

To  the  W.  of  the  Largo  das  Duas  Egrejas  (p.  622)  lies  the  shady 
Pbaca  de  Luiz  de  Camobs  (pi.  E,  4),  with  a  monument,  hy  Victor 
Bastos  (1867),  to  Luiz  de  CamOe»  (Camoens),  the  most  celebrated 
poet  of  Portugal. 

The  figure  of  the  heroic  singer  stands  on  a  handsome  octagonal  ped- 
estal of  a  marble-like  stone;  in  his  right  hand  is  a  drawn  sword,  in  his 
loft  a  copy  of  his  masterpiece  the  ^Lusiads\  a  great  national  epic  celebr" 


524   Route  55,  LISBON.  SOo  Boque. 

ing  the  noble  deeda  of  Ma  countrymen.  CamSes  was  bom  at  liiabon  or 
Coimbra  (p.  565)  in  1524,  atadied  at  Coimbra,  went  to  Africa  and  after- 
wards to  India  in  consequence  of  an  unfortunate  love-affair ,  and  did  not 
return  to  Lisbon  till  1568.  He  published  th«  ^Lusiads'  in  1672  and  died  in 
poverty  in  1580.  As  Cervantes  lost  his  left  arm  in  the  battle  of  I/epanto, 
50  CamSes  lost  his  right  eye  in  a  skirmish  with  the  Moors ;  and  tike  sculptor 
has  not  tried  to  conceal  this  bodily  defect.  —  Bound  the  pedestal  are 
ranged  the  statues  of  eight  other  famous  Portuguese  who  have  described  or 
sung  the  great  discoveries  of  their  country:  the  historian  Femao  Lepe$^ 
the  cosmographer  Pedro  Nune»^  the  chroniclers  Gomez  JSemnes  d^Aturara^ 
JoSo  de  Barroty  and  Fernao  Lopes  de  Castanheda,  and  the  poets  Vaeco  Mtm- 
tinho  de  Quevedo^  Jeronymo  Corte  Real,  and  FrancUeo  de  Sa  de  Menezes. 

Tbe  wire-rope  railway  mentioned  at  p.  516  leadg  from  the  Pra^a 
de  Camoes  to  the  N.W.  to  the  Palace  of  the  Cortes  (p.  627)  and  the 
£8trella  Gburch  (p.  526).  Tbe  Rua  do  Alecrim  descends  steeply  to 
the  S.W.,  viil  tbe  Largo  de  Barao  de  Quintella,  to  the  Pra^  do 
Duque  de  Terceira  (p.  634)',  on  tbe  bank  of  the  Tagna.  —  On  a 
prominent  knoll,  a  little  to  the  S.W.  of  tbe  Largo  de  Barao  de 
Quintella ,  lies  the  church  of  Ncasa  Senhora  da8  Chagas  (PI.  E,  4). 
To  the  N.  of  this  church,  at  No.  6  Kua  das  Gbagas,  is  the  building 
of  the  Sociedade  de  Oeographia^  with  a  good  library  and  the  Museu 
ColoniaL  The  latter  (adm. ,  see  p.  617)  contains  ethnographical 
objects,  memorials  of  the  Portuguese  travellers  in  Africa,  maps,  etc. 

The  broad  Rua  de  Sao  Roaux  (PI.  F,4,  3)  ascends  from  the  N.E. 
comer  of  the  Pra^a  de  Camoes  to  tbe  Largo  de  Sao  Roque,  where 
a  monument  commemorates  the  marriage  of  Louis  I.  with  Maria  Pia 
of  Savoy  (1862).  On  the  N.  side  of  the  square  is  the  church  of 
Sfto  Boque  (PI.  F,  3),  a  late-Renaissance  structure  of  about  1666, 
erected  by  tbe  Jesuits  from  a  design  by  Filippo  Terzi  (p.  622). 

The  ornate  Intebiob,  which  has  no  aisles,  may  be  visited  for  the  sake 
of  two  of  its  chapels  (good  light  desirable;  sacristSo  in  the  Santa  Ca^a). 
The  CapeUa  de  Sao  Roque  (Srd  to  the  right)  has  charming  wall- tiles  by 
FrancUeo  de  Matot  (1584).  The  Cap.  de  Itao  Joao  Baptieta  (last  to  the  left) 
was  constructed  at  Borne  in  the  costliest  marbles  after  a  design  by  Van- 
vitelli,  was  consecrated  by  the  Pope,  then  taken  to  pieces,  and  shipped  to 
Lisbon.  It  contains  large  mosaics,  silver  candelabra,  columns  of  lapis 
lazuli,  and  a  handsome  altar. 

'  The  Santa  Ca^a  de  Misericordia^  in  the  adjoining  buildings  of 
the  Jesuit  convent,  has  been  the  foundling  hospital  of  Lisbon  since 
1768.  About  2000  children  (expostos)  are  annually  received  here  on 
tbe  roda  (Span,  iorno ;  see  p.  412).  It  also  includes  an  asylum  for 
orphan  girls  (orf&s). 

Farther  on  the  Rua  de  Sao  Roque  passes  the  Inclined  Railway 
named  at  p.  615  and  ends  at  the  *Alameda  de  Sfto  Pedro  de  Alcan- 
tara (PI.  E,  F,  3),  a  shady  promenade,  combined  with  a  flower 
garden  on  a  lower  level.  It  is  adorned  with  busts  of  Mark  Antony,  Mar- 
cus Aurelius,  Homer,  Raphael  Mengs,  Pedro  Alvares  Oabral  (p.  604), 
Camoens ,  Dom  Henrique  (^Henry  the  Navigator' ;  p.  661),  Joao  de 
Castro  (p.  646),  Affonso  de  Albuquerque  (p.  604),  and  Vasco  da 
Gama  (p.  604).  —  The  view  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  In  Lisbon. 
To  the  S.  are  the  bay  of  the  Tagus  and  the  castle-hill  of  Palmella 
(p.  646);  to  tbe  E.,  Lisboa  Oriental  with  the  castle  of  St.  George 


Botanical  Garden,  LISBON.  55.  Route,  625 

(p.  528)  and  the  churches  of  Gra^a  (p.  629),  do  Monte  (p.  529), 
and  Penha  da  Franca  (p.  530);  to  the  N.,  the  high-lying  Peni- 
tentiary. At  our  feet  lie  the  Avenida  da  Liherdade ,  the  Central 
Railway  Station,  the  Rocfo,  and  the  Baixa. 

We  now  follow  the  tramway  to  the  N. W.,  along  the  Rua  de  Dom 
Pedro  Quinto ,  to  the  La&oo  do  Pmncipb  Real  (PI,  E,  2,  3 ;  for- 
merly Largo  da  Patriarchal  Qudmcufa),  a  large  promenade  with  a 
fountain  and  attractive  pleasure-grounds.  It  stands  on  the  highest 
part  of  Lishoa  Occidental  and  occupies  the  site  of  a  patriarchal 
church,  built  by  John  V.,  overthrown  by  the  earthquake  of  1755, 
and  again  destroyed  by  a  fire  in  1769.  From  the  W.  comer  we  enjoy 
a  fine  view  of  Buenos  Ayres  (see  below),  the  Estrella  Church  (p.  526), 
and  the  Tagus.  —  This  largo  Is  a  station  of  the  tramway-lines  of 
the  ♦Circumvalla^ao'  and  to  the  'Rate'  and  'Rooio'  (Nos.  1  and  2). 

From  the.  Largo  do  Principe  Real  the  Rua  da  Escola  Polytechnica 
runs  to  the  N.W,  to  the  Polttecknio  Institute  (PI.  K,  2),  which 
contains  an  interesting  Natural  History  Museum  (adm. ,  see  p.  517), 
an  Astronomical  Observatory  (Observatorio  Astronomico) ,  and  a 
Meteorological  Station  (Observatorio  Meteorologico  do  Infante  Dqm 
Luiz).  To  the  Polytechnic  also  belongs  the  ^Botanical  Oftrden 
(open  free),  established  in  1875  and  probably  the  finest  in  Europe. 
The  lower  part  of  the  garden  contains  a  magnificent  avenue  of  palms 
and  a  most  fascinating  show  of  tropical  and  subtropical  plants.  It  is 
reached  by  a  road  from  the  S.E.  corner  of  the  Polytechnic,  and  there 
is  a  side-entrance  in  the  Rua  Nova  da  Alegria.  In  the  upper  part 
of  the  garden  are  the  Estufas,  or  greenhouses. 

Beyond  the  church  of  8&o  Mamede  the  Rua  da  Escola  Poly- 
technica ends  at  the  Laboo  do  Rato  (Pi.  D,  1),  another  important 
tramway-station,  with  several  fine  mansions.  The  Cal^ada  de  Fabrica 
de  Lou^a  leads  hence  to  the  N.  to  the  neighbouring  *H&e  d'Agua 
(PI.  D,  1 ;  ring  at  the  green  door  No.  7,  to  the  left;  fee  200  rs.),  the 
storage  basin  of  the  old  Lisbon  aqueduct  (see  below),  situated  265  ft. 
above  the  Tagus  and  completed  in  1834  This  *Mother  of  Water', 
one  of  the  most  impressive  structures  in  Lisbon,  consists  of  a  huge 
stone  hall ,  in  the  midst  of  which  is  the  reservoir,  98  ft.  long,  82  ft. 
wide ,  and  33  ft.  deep.  A  narrow  staircase  ascends  to  the  aqueduct 
itself,  in  the  form  of  a  low  gallery  with  two  water-channels,  and  to 
the  flat  roof  of  the  edifice,  95  ft.  above  the  street  (extensive  view). 

The  Aquedttcto  daa  Aguas  Liyres,  or  old  aqueduct  of  Lisbon,  15  M.  in 
length,  was  constructed  under  John  V.  in  1T29-49  at  an  alleged  cost  of 
600U  contos  reis  (comp.  p.  530).  It  supplies  the  town  with  the  water  of  the 
Agwu  lAvru  from  a  point  near  Baias  (p.  541).  The  aqueduct,  which  is 
partly  underground,  crosses  the  valley  of  the  Alcantara  at  Oampolide 
.(p.  514)'  by  a  viaduct  Vs  M.  long,  on  the  top  of  which  are  two  stone  cause- 
ways  leading  to  Bemfica  (p.  6il).  The  largest  of  the  35  arches  is  204  ft. 
high.  As  it  approaches  the  Mae  d'Agua,  the  aqueduct  crosses  the  attractive 
Pringa  das  Amoreirat  (PI.  D,  1). 

The  high- lying  part  of  the  city  to  the  W.  of  the  Largo  do  Rato 

is  named  Buenos  Ayres  (Port.  Rons  Ares), 


526  BouU  66,  LISBON.  FHrOla  Church. 

We  follow  tke  Rua  po  Sol  i>o  Rato,  passing  the  eud  (left)  of 
the  long  Rna  de  Sao  Bento  (tramway,  see  p.  516),  and  tnin  to  the 
left  into  the  Rua  do  Yisconde  de  Santo  Ambrosio ,  which  iQads  past 
the  chnrch  of  Santa  Izabel  to  the  shadeless  Rua  Sabaiya  de  Gas- 
YALRO  (PI.  B,  G,  2).  The  last  runs  nearly  due  W.  to  the  Cemiterio 
Ocoidental  (PI.  A,  B,  2),  which  lies  high  above  the  valley  of  the 
Alcantara.  This  cemetery,  also  known  as  the  Cem,  doe  Br<»eres  from 
an  old  ermida,  contains  tasteful  graves  (jazigotj  and  numerous 
cypresses,  and  affords  an  admirable  view  of  the  Tagus,  Ajuda 
(p.  536),  and  the  arches  of  the  old  aqueduct.  To  the  S.,  a  little 
lower,  is  the  Cemetery  of  the  Poor.  —  We  now  retrace  our  steps  and 
follow  the  Rua  do  Patrocinio  to  the  right  to  the  small  Gbmitbsio 
Allemao  (PI.  B,  2 ;  entr. ,  Largo  de  Jos^  da  Silva  Garvalho  59), 
containing  the  graves  of  Germans,  Swiss,  and  Scandinavians.  From 
this  point  to  the  Palado  Real,  see  p.  533. 

From  the  E.  pare  of  the  Rua  Saraiva  de  Garvalho  the  Bua  Nova 
da  Estrella  descends  to  the  right  to  the  entrance  of  the  *Cemitbsio 
DOB  Inglbzbs  (PI.  G,  2;  ring:  fee  100 is.),  known  as  Oo  Oyprestea 
from  the  number  of  its  cypresses.  This  cemetery,  the  first  Pro- 
testant burial-ground  in  Portugal,  was  laid  out  in  1717  in  connection 
with  the  Hoapital  of  the  English  Factory  ('Impensis  Britanorum  et 
Batavorum').  It  contains  the  graves  of  Henry  Fielding  (1707-54), 
the  immortal  author  of  ^Tom  Jones',  and  Dr,  FhiUp  Doddridge 
(1702-61),  the  eminent  Nonconformist  divine. 

The  gate  below  that  of  the  English  Cemetery  leads  into  the 
Paaseio  Publico  da  EstrfiUa  (PI.  C,  D,  2),  an  attractive  park  with  two 
ponds  and  a  restaurant.  Its  lower  entrance  opens  on  the  Largo  da 
Estrella  (PL  G,  2,  3). 

The  'Estrella  Church,  officially  styled  the  Basilica  do  Santissimo 
CoragSU)  de  Jesus  (PI.  C,  3),  is  the  most  conspicuous  building  in 
W.  Lisbon,  just  as  Sao  Vicente  (p.  529)  is  in  E.  Lisbon.  The 
.church  was  erected  in  1779-96,  on  the  site  of  the  old  convent  of 
Nossa  Serihora  da  Estrella,  in  fulfilment  of  a  vow  of  Queen  Maria  I., 
whose  prayers  for  an  heir  to  the  throne  had  been  heard.  Its  archi- 
tects, Matheus  Vicente  and  Beynaldo  Manuel  j  took  the  church  of 
Mafra  (p.  650)  as  their  modeL  The  building  material  is  limestone 
from  the  valley  of  the  Alcantara  (p.  534).  The  facade  is  adorned 
with  numerous  allegorical  figures  and  statues  of  saints  by  J.  Machado 
de  Castro,    The  two  bell-towers  serve  as  landmarks  for  seamen. 

The  fitting  up  of  the  Intebiok  is  ornate  rather  than  artistic.  The  High 
Altar  is  decorated  with  figures  of  the  four  quarters  of  the  globe,  the  nude 
woman  representing  Europe.  To  the  right  of  the  high-altar  is  the  Mauto- 
leum  of  Queen  Maria,  who  died  at  Bio  de  Janeiro  in  1816  at  the  age  of 
82,  after  having  been  insane  for  24  years.    The  Latin  inscription  is  curious. 

The  *AscENT  OF  the  Dome  (entr.  by  the  5th  door  to  the  right  -,  fee 
200  rs.)  should  not  be  omitted.  The  staircase  in  the  N.W.  tower  ascends 
to  the  flat  roof  of  the  church,  which  itself  is  a  -fine  point  of  view.  We 
^hen  pass  through  the  double  lining  of  the  dome  into  a  gallery  round  its 
interior,  where  care  should  be  taken  not  to  disturb  the  worshippers  below 
by  loud  talking.    A  ladder  finally  leads  to  the  Lanfemy  the  view  from 


Academia  das  Sciencias.     LISBON.  55.  Route.  527 

which  ifl  the  moat  extensiye  and  the  finest  in  Lisbon,  including  the  whole 
of  the  city,  the  S.  bank  of  the  Tagus,  and  the  ocean. 

We  return  by  Inclined  Railway  No,  4  (p.  516).  To  the  left,  in  the 
Labgo  db  Sao  Bbnto  (station),  lies  the  secularized  convent  of  Sdo 
Bento  (17th  cent.),  vhich  has  been  used  since  1834  as  the  Palftcio 
das  O&rtes  (PL  D,  3),  or  house  of  parliament.  It  includes  the  Camara 
dos  Senhorea  Depuiados  and  the  Camara  dos  Dignos  Pares  do  Reino, 
the  two  together  forming  the  Cortes  Qeraes  da  NaQcCo  Portugueza. 
The  building  also  contains  the  National  Aechives  (Archivo  Geral 
do  Reino)i  the  largest  collection  of  documents  in  the  country  (adm., 
see  p.  617).  It  is  generally  known  as  the  Torre  do  TombOy  having 
been  originally  established  in  1375  in  a  tower  of  that  name,  whence 
it  was  transferred  to  the  Castle  of  St.  George  and  ultimately  (1757) 
to  its  present  resting-place.  —  In  front  of  the  palace  is  the  insigni- 
ficant bronze  statue  of  the  statesman  Jo86  Esteuan  Coelho  de  Magal- 
Mes,  by  Victor  Bastos  (1878). 

Not  far  off  is  the  Academia  Beal  das  Sciencias  (PI.  D,  E,  3), 
Rua  do  Arco  de  Jesus  13,  founded  in  1779  in  a  Jesuit  convent.  It  con- 
tains a  large  Library  (adm.,  see  p.  517)  and  some  valuable  collections. 

The  rich  Ethnoqkaphical  Collection,  on  the  gronndfloor,  has  recently 
been  well  arranged  and  deserves  a  visit. 

The  Geological  and  Pbbhistobio  Collections  are  on  the  upper  floor. 
Main  Boom.  In  the  Central  Cotes  are  human  remans  and  implement  from  the 
*kitchen  middens'  (Danish,  'kjokkenmoddinger')  of  Mngem  and  the  Tagus, 
along  with  photographs  of  the  place  in  which  they  were  found;  view  of 
a  prehistoric  stone  quarry  at  the  mouth  of  the  Campolide  Tunnel.  Cases  8-12: 
Objects  found  in  the  caves  of  Peniche,  including  (Case  11)  an  excellently 
preserved  vessel.  The  Synoptical  Case  at  the  end  of  the  room  contains 
the  most  notable  objects  of  various  epochs,  including  marble  copies  of  the 
stone-axes  found  in  the  cave  of  Carvalhal  near  Alcoba^a,  and  a  large 
curved  slab  of  stone,  of  unknown  import,  with  corded  ornamentation,  from 
the  Casa  da  Houra  at  Cesareda.  Central  Case  10  contains  a  Eoman  edict 
on  metal  plates,  from  the  copper  mines  of  Aljustrel.  —  The  side-room 
contains  a  Collection  of  Modkbn  Ethnoqbapht,  including  a  large  number 
of  amulets  and  votive  objects. 

A  little  to  theE.  of  the  Royal  Academy  of  Sciences  is  the  English 
College^  founded  in  1624  for  the  education  of  priests  and  attended 
hy  40-60  students. 

b.  Lisboa  Oriental. 

From  the  N.E.  corner  of  the  Pra^a  do  Commercio  (p.  520)  we 
enter  the  Rua  da  Princesa  (dos  Fanqueiros)  andt^en  ascend  to  the 
right  hy  the  Rua  da  Concei^ao  (the  third  cross-street)  to  the  Largo 
de  Santo  Antonio  da  S^,  in  which  rises  the  church  of  8anto  Antonio 
da  S6  (PL  G,  6),  destroyed  by  the  earthquake  and  rebuilt  by  Matheua 
Vicente  in  1812.  It  occupies  the  site  of  the  house  in  which  8L  Antony 
of  Padua  (1195-1231)  was  born.  ■ —  A  little  higher  up  stands  the  — 

8^  Patriarchal  (PI.  G,  5),  or  cathedral,  the  oldest  ecclesiastical 
edifice  in  Lisbon,  founded  by  Affonso  Henriques  in  1150,  tradi- 
tionally on  the  site  of  a  Moorish  mosque,  and  connected  wit> 
Castle  of  St.  George  by  an  underground  passage.  Boniface  IX.  in- 


528  Route  66.  LISBON.  Caatello. 

It  in  1993  with  the  dignity  of  a  metropolitan  church.  Affonso  IV. 
restored  most  of  the  hnilding  after  the  earthquake  of  1344,  and 
Ferdinand  I.  erected  the  present  W.  facade  in  1380.  The  earthquake 
of  1755  destroyed  the  dome,  and  the  suhsequent  fire  deYOured  the 
roof  and  bell-tower.  The  work  of  renovation  took  26  years.  The 
only  relics  of  the  Gothic  cathedral  of  the  14th  cent,  are  the  lower 
part  of  the  facade,  the  first  chapel  in  the  left  aisle,  the  ambulatory 
chapels,  and  two  bays  of  the  transept.  The  two  Towers  have  been 
so  truncated  as  to  be  quite  ineffective.  In  1383  Bishop  Martinho  was 
thrown  from  the  N.  tower  by  the  mob  on  account  of  his  Spanish 
sympathies. 

The  Iktbbiob  has  liftUe  of  interest.  The  walla  are  lined  with  blue  and 
white  tilea.  —  The  Capella  de  Sdo  VicmU  containa  the  remaina  of  St.  Vin- 
cent (p.  520).  —  In  the  CofUla  M6r  rest  AfFonao  IV.  (d.  1357)  and  hia 
wife  Beatrice  (Brites).  Beyond,  in  the  ambulatory,  is  an  old  episcopal 
throne,  said  to  be  that  from  which  Affonso  adminintered  justice. 

The  CloUter*  are  entered  from  the  N.  aide  of  the  ambulatory.  Their 
fourth  chapel  containa  the  ^Senhor  Jesua  da  Boa  Senten^a  da  86\  a  wonder- 
working crucifix. 

In  the  Rua  do  Arco  Limoeiro,  to  the  N.  of  the  cathedral,  is  the 
Aljube  (left),  a  prison  originally  erected  for  ecclesiastics  but  used 
for  women  since  1833.  In  the  regency  of  Dom  Miguel  (1828)  it  was 
filled  with  adherents  of  the  constitutional  party.  —  A  little  farther 
on,  to  the  right,  in  theLABGo  do  Limobiho  (PI.  G,  5),  is  the  Limoeiro, 
or  male  prison  of  Lisbon.  It  occupies  the  site  of  the  Palticio  da 
Moeda^  one  of  the  royal  residences  in  the  14-15th  cent.,  where  the 
Grand  Master  of  Aviz,  afterwards  King  John  I.  (p.  604),  stabbed  Count 
Andeiro  in  1383.  The  edifice,  which  has  been  used  for  a  prison  since 
1496,  was  rebuilt  after  the  earthquake.  The  prisoners  are  allowed  to 
converse  freely  with  the  passers-by. 

Beyond  the  prison  we  ascend  steeply  to  the  left,  passing  the 
church  of  8ao  Thiago^  to  the  Largo  do  Contador  Mor  (PI.  G,  4), 
whence  we  proceed  by  the  Travessa  do  Funil  and  the  Rua  do  Chao 
daFeira  to  8t.  George's  Gate.  Passing  through  this  without  question, 
we  enter  the  Castello  de  Sfto  Jorge  (PI.  G,  4),  the  old  Moorish 
citadel  (Castello  dos  Mouros)^  which  the  Christians  penetrated  by 
the  Porta  do  8oly  in  the  Pra^a  Nova  (now  walled  up).  Adjoining 
the  gate  is  a  marble  head  of  Martino  Mcnh ,  whose  heroic  self- 
sacrifice  enabled  the  Christians  to  enter  (inscription  of  1646). — 
On  the  castle-hill  Affonso  III.  (d.  1279)  built  the  Papo  de  8ao  Bar- 
tholomeuy  the  first  royal  residence  in  Lisbon,  and  his  successor  Diniz 
(d.  1325)  the  PoQQ  da  Alca^ova.  Both  these  were  destroyed  by  the 
earthquake  of  1755,  and  Emmanuel  I.  replaced  them  by  the  Pa^os 
da  Ribeira  (p.  520).  The  castle  now  contains  barracks ,  a  military 
prison,  and  the  small  church  of  Santa  Cruz  do  Castello ,  with  the 
highly  revered  'Imagem'  of  St.  George.  It  affords  splendid  views 
of  the  town  and  the  Tagus,  especially  from  the  tree-shaded  terrace 
on  the  S.  side. 

We  now  return  to  the  Rua  do  Chao  da  Feira  and  descend  thence 


Sao  Vicente.  LISBON.  55.  Route.   529 

vih  the  Pra^a  de  Dom  Fadrique  and  tlie  Bua  dos  Cegos  to  the  Largo  do 
MeninoDens  (PI.  G,  4).  Thence  we  ascend  by  theTravessado  A^ougue, 
the  Rua  de  Santa  Marlnha,  and  the  Rua  de  Sio  Vicente  to  the  lofty, 
twin-towered  church  of  8§Lo  Vicente  d©I'6ra(Pl.  H,  4).  The  original 
chnrch,  erected  hy  Affonso  Henriqnes  'outside'  the  town  (p.  619), 
was  replaced  in  1582  hy  the  present  late-Renaissance  edifice,  ascribed 
to  Filippo  Terzi  (?).  The  dome  fell  In  at  the  earthquake  of  1755. 
The  facade  and  the  aisleless  interior  are  richly  adorned  with  marble. 
The  nave  is  roofed  with  lofty  barrel-vaulting.  The  bald achino  of  the 
high-altar  is  by  J.  Machado  de  Castro,  The  remains  of  Nuno  Alvares 
Pereira  were  removed  to  the  Capella  de  8SLo  Theotonio  after  the 
earthquake  (comp.  p.  622).  Adjoining  the  capella-m6r  is  the  burial- 
vault  of  the  Patriarchs  of  Lisbon. 

The  MosTEiBO  dk  SXo  Vicente,  occupied  down  to  1773  by 
Augustine  monks  transferred  to  Mafra  in  that  year ,  is  now  the  re- 
sidence of  the  Cojrdeal  Patriarcha  de  Lishoa.  In  the  cloisters  is  the 
*Pantheon  of  the  Portuguese  monarehs  of  the  house  of  Braganza, 
from  John  IV.  (1640-66)  to  Louis  L  (d.  1889).  Affonso  VL  (p.  638) 
and  Maria  I.  (p.  526)  are  buried  elsewhere.  The  Duke  of  Terceira 
(p.  634)  and  the  Duke  of  Saldanha  are  also  interred  here.  Admission 
Is  hard  to  obtain;  the  key  is  generally  kept  at  the  National  Archives 
(p.  527).  —  The  *Convent  Garden  commands  an  extensive  view.  '* ' 

A  little  to  the  S.E.,  in  the  Campo  de  Santa  Clara,  stands  the 
fine  church  of  Santa  Engbacia  (PI.  H,  4),  founded  in  1500  and 
restored  in  1630.  It  was,  however,  left  unfinished  and  is  now  used 
as  an  artillery  magazine.  'Endless,  like  the  building  of  Santa  En- 
gracia',  and  'Obras  de  Santa  Engracia'  are  proverbial  expressions  in 
Lisbon.  —  Adjacent  lies  the  Marine  Hospital  (PI.  H,  I,  4;  1797). 

From  the  church  of  St.  Vincent  the  Rua  da  Infancia  ascends  to 
the  N.  to  the  Largo  da  Gra(ja  (PI.  G,  H,  3,  41  which  we  follow  to 
the  S.W.,  passing  the  old  Convent  of  Gra^a  (now  barracks),  to  the 
church  of  Nossa  Senhora  da  era9a  (262  ft. ;  PI.  G,  H,  3,  4).  This 
unpretending  structure,  built  in  1656  and  rebuilt  after  the  earth- 
quake, occupies  the  top  of  the  ridge  once  called  the  Almafcda.  It 
commands  a  fine  'View  of  Lisboa  Occidental  and  the  lower  town, 
but  the  harbour  is  concealed  by  the  Castle  of  St.  George. 

Intebiob.  The  miracle-working  image  of  Nosm  Senhor  dos  Pcu$ot  da 
Oraga  is  exhibited  on  Frid.  in  the  S.  transept.  The  fignre  of  Christ  is 
represented  lying  under  the  Gross  and  is  believed  by  the  faithful  to  consist 
of  real  flesh  and  blood,  in  proof  of  which  the  flnger-marks  of  a  sceptic 
may  be  seen  on  one  of  the  legs.  In  the  nave  is  an  image  of  Noua  Senhora 
das  Ddres.  —  In  the  Cata  do  Capitulo  is  the  tomb  of  Affonso  de  Albuquerque 
(p.  504),  and  in  the  Sacristy  is  the  monument  of  De  Pereira^  secretary  of 
state  under  Peter  II. 

TTe  now  return  to  the  above-mentioned  barracks  and  enter  the 
Rua  da  Gra^a  to  the  N.  Near  the  beginning  of  this  street,  to  the  left, 
is  the  Travessa  do  Monte,  leading  to  (5  min.)  the  ermida  of  Nossa 
Senhora  do  Honte  (328  ft.;  PI.  G,  H,  3).  Here  we  enjoy  a  most 
extensive  *View,  extending  on  the  N.E.  to'Santarem  and  embracing 

Basdeker'8  Spain  and  Portugal.  34 


530   Rmtte56.  LISBON.  ArsmaL 

the  fjrcater  part  of  the  city,  the  harbour,  and  the  S.  hanlt  of  the  river. 
The  chapel,  built  in  1243  and  mined  by  the  earthquake,  contains 
the  chair  of  8do  OenSf  the  first  bishop  of  Lisbon,  which  is  held  in 
nin<->h  esteem  by  women  approachyig  their  confinement. 

We  return  to  the  Largo  da  Gra^a  and  take  the  IneUned  RaUway 
No.  3  (p.  516)  back  to  the  lower  town.  Or  we  may  follow  the  Rua 
da  Grafa  to  its  N.  end,  pass  the  Cruz  dos  Qua^o  CaminhoM,  and 
then  follow  the  Estrada  da  Penha  da  Franca  to  the  N.E.  to  the 
(20  min.)  secularized  Augustine  convent  of  Hossa  Senhora  da 
Penha  da  Franca  (360  ft. ;  PI.  H,  1).  This  was  built  about  1597 
by  the  sculptor  Antonio  SimffeSt  ii^  gratitude  for  his  escape  from  the 
disastrous  battle  of  Al-Kasr  al-Kebtr  (p.  538),  and  was  named  in 
honour  of  the  image  of  the  Virgin  mentioned  at  p.  450.  The  church, 
restored  after  the  earthquake,  is  the  votive  church  of  the  sea-faring 
population.  It  affords  a  fine  view  of  the  fertile  hilly  district  to  the 
N.,  the  Serra  de  Gintra  and  the  Pena  (p.  544)  to  the  W.,  and  the 
Tagus  bay  to  the  S. 

From  the  Penha  da  Franca  we  may  descend  to  the  W.  to  the 
Avenida  dos  Anjos  and  proceed  thence  to  the  S.W.  to  the  tramway 
station  in  the  Largo  do  Intendente  (PL  G,  2).  Or  we  may  follow 
the  Kstrada  da  Circumvalla^io  to  the  S.E.,  passing  the  Cemiterio 
Oriental  (PI.  K.  1),  to  the  Ota  cfc  Pedra  (PI.  K,  3). 

0.  The  Streets  by  the  Tagns  (from  E.  to  W.)/ 
At  the  point  where  the  Estrada  da  Gircumvalla^Ho  joins  the  line 
of  streets  along  the  river,  a  little  to  the  N.E.  of  the  Crm  de  Pedra, 
lies  the  Aiylo  de  Dona  Maria  Pia  (PI.  K,  3),  an  almshouse  estab- 
lished in  1867.  Adjacent  is  the  former  convent  of  Madre  de  Deuz, 
founded  in  1508  by  Queen  Leonora,  sister  of  Emmanuel  I.  and 
widow  of  John  II.  The  church  contains  the  tomb  of  the  foundress 
and  some  good  paintings. 

The  Calle  da  Cruz  da  Pedra  leads  hence  to  the  S.W.  to  the 
Dbfosito  do  Alyiblla.  (pi.  I,  3,  4),  the  reservoir  of  the  conduit 
constructed  in  1869-80  to  supply  the  town  with  the  water  of  the 
Alviella  (p.  512),  near  Pemei^  a  distance  of  70  M.  Farther  on  are 
the  Esta^ao  de  Santa  Apolonia  (p.  514)  and  the  Arsenal  do  Ezircito 
(PI.  H,  4,  5),  a  block  of  buildings  begun  in  1726  and  finished  by 
the  Marquis  of  Pombal  in  1760.  It  now  accommodates  a  military 
magazine  and  the  Commando  Qeral  da  Artilheria.  On  the  first  floor 
of  the  main  building  are  five  fine  Salaa  d^ Armas,  A  side-building 
(entr.  in  the  Galgada  do  Museu  de  Artilheria)  contains  the  ARTiiiLEBT 
Museum  (adm.,  see  p.  517),  a  valuable  collection  of  military  im- 
plements and  cannon.  Among  the  last  is  the  Cannon  of  i>tu,  a 
93-pounder  20  ft.  in  length,  with  an  Arabic  inscription.  To  the  Ar- 
senal belong  a  school  for  sixty  ^Apprendizea  do  AraenaV,  a  Weapon 
Factory^  and  a  Oun  Foundry  (Fundi^ao  de  CanhffesJ  in  the  Gampo 
'  ^  Santa  Clara  (p.  529 ;  adm.  by  permit  from  the  Commando  Geral). 


Largo  do  Municipio.         LISBON.  55.  Route.   531 

Passing  through  several  narrow  streets,  we  reach  the  Rua  da  Al- 
PANDBGA  (PI.  G,  5)  and  the  chuich  of  HoBsa  Senbora  da  Coneoi^fto 
Yelha.  The  magnificent  facade,  with  its  door  and  windows  in  the 
richest  ^Manoelino'  or  'EmmanueP  style  (p.  536),  is  the  facade  of  the 
S.  transept  of  the  old  church  of  Nossa  Senhora  da  Misericordioj  built 
by  Emmanuel  I.  about  1620  for  the  brotherhood  of  that  name  and 
destroyed  by  the  earthquake  in  1755.  The  relief  of  the  portal,  re- 
presenting the  Virgin,  Pope  Alexander  VI. ,  Emmanuel,  and  his 
sister  Leonora,  has  been  preserved  in  the  sacristy  since  1813.  —  A 
few  yards  to  the  E.  of  this  point  is  the  Travessa  dos  Bioos,  leading 
to  the  Bua  dos  Bacalhoeiros.  Here  stands  the  Ctua  do8  Bicoe^  built 
in  the  reign  of  Emmanuel  L  by  Braz,  a  son  of  Affonso  de  Albuquerque. 
It  used  also  to  be  called  the  Ccaa  dos  DiamarUes,  from  the  facetted 
stones  of  the  fagade. 

The  AlpXndbga  Grande  (PI.  F,  G,  6),  on  the  S.  side  of  the  Rua 
da  Alfandega,  is  the  custom-house  of  Lisbon  (business-hours  9-3). 
It  was  built  by  the  Marquis  de  Pombal  after  the  earthquake,  on  the 
site  of  the  Qua  da  India  e  Mina,  and  has  a  large  arcaded  court. 

Farther  on  is  the  ProQa  do  Commercio  (p.  520),  to  the  N.W.  of 
which  lies  the  Laboo  do  Municipio  (PI.  F,  5),  or  Largo  doPelourinho^ 
a  handsome  square  overlooked  by  the  lofty  buildings  of  upper  Lis- 
bon. The  Camara  Municipal^  on  its  E.  side,  was  completed  in  1880. 
The  church  of  Sj:o  JuliXo,  in  the  N.E.  corner,  dates  flrom  the  12th 
cent,  but  was  rebuilt  after  the  earthquake.  It  contains  the  Chapel 
of  the  Oermans  (S.  transept)  and  the  silver  christening  bowl  of  King 
Sebastian.  —  The  spiral  column  in  the  midst  of  the  square  is  the 
so-called  Pelourinho^  or  pillory,  also  known  as  the  Forca  doa  Fidalgoa 
from  the  many  nobles  executed  here.  The  numerous  *pelourinhos' 
of  Portugal  refer,  like  the  Roland  columns  of  Lower  Germany,  to 
the  jurisdiction  claimed  by  the  towns. 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  Largo  do  Municipio  stretches  the  Marine 
Arsenal  (PI.  F,  5),  to  which  visitors  are  admitted  by  a  *licen9a' 
from  the  Inspector.  It  includes  wharves,  a  dry  dock,  and  a  naval 
yard  for  the  equipment  of  the  fleet  (Depdsito  Oeral  da  Fazenda  da 
Armada),  On  the  first  floor  of  the  main  building  is  the  Naval 
Academy,  The  Sala  do  Risco  contains  the  Museu  Naval  (adm.,  see 
p.  517).  —  Sulphur  Spring,  see  p.  516. 

To  the  W.  the  Rua  do  Arsenal  ends  at  the  Labgo  do  Cobfo 
Santo  (PI.  E,  5),  with  the  Convent  and  College  of  the  Iri^h  Domini- 
cans,  founded  in  1641.  Here  the  tramway  skirting  the  Tagus  forks 
into  the  inner  and  outer  lines  (comp.  p.  534). 

The  Innbb  Tramway  Linb  passes  under  the  Rua  do  Alecrim 
(p.  624)  and  follows  the  Rua  de  Sao  Paulo  to  the  Largo  do  Sao 
Paulo  (Pl.  E,  5),  with  its  handsome  bronze  fountain.  Farther  on 
it  passes  (left)  the  Casa  da  Moeda,  or  Mint,  and  (right)  the  Inclined 
Bailway  No.  5  (p.  616)  and  reaches  the  Largo  do  Oonde  Barao  (PI. 
D,  4).   Here  diverges  the  tramway  to  the  Rate  (p.  525),  running  to 

34* 


534  B^mUM,  LISBON.  AleanUxra, 

large  Quarriei  to  the  W.  of  the  Alcantara ,  the  tnarble-lfke  limestoDe 
of  which  has  long  been  used  by  the  builders  of  Lisbon.  —  A  few 
hundred  yards  farther  on,  the  inner  and  outer  tramway  lines  reunite 
in  the  suburb  of  Aloantara,  near  the  high-lying  Ermida  ofSanio 
AmarOf  a  singular  Renaissance  dome-covered  building  begun  in 
1549«  On  the  S.  side  is  an  open  cloister ,  the  walls  of  which  are 
lined  with  rich  tiles. 

From  Alcantara  to  AJttda  and  Bdem,  see  below. 

The  OuTBB  Tbavwat  Line,  skirting  the  Tagus  and  affording  a 
series  of  flne  yiews ,  leads  from  the  Largo  do  Corpo  Santo  (p.  531), 
past  the  Hdtel  Central  (p.  515),  to  the  Pra^a  do  Duque  da  Terceira 
(PL  £,  5).  Here  rises  a  bronze  statue  of  the  brave  General  Villa  Flor^ 
Duque  de  Tereeira,  who  roused  the  Azores  (Terceira)  to  revolt  during 
the  Miguelite  reign  of  terror  (p.  528)  and  marched  triumphantly  on 
July  24th,  1833,  from  Algarve  to  the  liberated  Lisbon.  The  statue, 
erected  in  1877,  is  by  Jos^  Simoes  d'Almeida. 

Beyond  this  point  the  river  is  skirted  by  the  Bua  Vinte  t  Quairo 
de  Jxdho  (PI.  A-E,  4,  5),  formerly  named  the  AterrOj  a  wide  boule- 
vard reclaimed  from  the  Tagus  and  planted  with  trees.  The  new 
harbour-works  (p.  520)  to  the  left  include  a  broad  quay,  two  large 
docks,  and  a  fore-harbour  (Anteporto),  To  the  right  is  the  Mereado 
de  Vinte  e  Quatro  de  Julho  (PI.  £,  5),  with  its  spacious  glass  pavil- 
ions ,  presenting  a  very  animated  scene  in  the  early  morning.  In 
the  middle  is  the  flsh-market.  The  flsh  are  sold  by  auction  opposite, 
on  the  bank  of  the  river. 

To  the  N.W.  of  the  market  is  the  charming  Pra^  do  Marquez 
de  Si  da  Bandeira  (PI.  E,  5) ,  with  a  bronze  statue ,  by  Giovanni 
Ciniselli,  of  the  Mar^Sz  de  8d  da  Bandeira  (1795-1876;  p.  582\ 
—  To  the  left  lies  the  new  Esta^ao  Caes  do  Sodrl  (PI.  D,  5;  p.  514), 
the  starting-point  of  the  railway  to  Belem  and  Gascaes. 

Farther  on,  the  tramway  passes  the  Eata^Oo  de  Santos  (PL  G,  4), 
the  Rua  de  Yasco  da  Qama  (p.  532) ,  and  numerous  mills  and  fac- 
tories, uniting  with  the  inner  line  on  the  other  side  of  the  Alcantara 
valley  (see  above). 

d.  Ajuda  and  Belem. 

AJuda  is  reached  from  Alcantara  (see  above)  by  the  Oal(ada  da  Tapada, 
leading  to  the  K.W.  along  the  park  (IVs  M.) ,  or  from  the  Praca  de  Dom 
Fernando  in  Belem  by  the  Gal^ada  d'Ajuda ,  ranning  to  the  K.E.  (^4  M.). 
A  third  street  connects  AJuda  vrith  the  Praca  de  Yasco  da  Oama  (p.  596) 
in  Belem.  —  The  Pa^o  deBetem  is  in  the  Praca  de  Dom  Fernando  j  the 
church  of  Santa  Maria  and  the  Casa  Pia  lie  V4  M.  to  the  W.,  in  the  Prars 
de  Vasco  da  Gama,  a  station  of  the  Tramway  mentioned  at  p.  516.  The 
Belem  station  on  the  Gascaes  Railway  (R.  56c)  adjoins  the  Pra^a  de  Dom 
Fernando.  The  Terre  de  Belem  stands  halfway  between  the  stations  of 
Belem  and  Pedroucos.  —  The  church  at  Belem  is  closed  in  the  afternoon. 

Beyond  the  junction  of  the  inner  and  outer  lines  at  Alcantara 

Tsee  above)  the  tramway  continues  to  run  towards  the  W.  through 

^e  suburb  of  Junqneira,  passing  the  Colegio  BrasiUlro  and  skirting 


Aiuda.  LISBON.  66,  Route.   535 

the  Novo  Betiro  (Praia  de  Junqueira),  To  the  right  are  several 
attractive  country-houses ;  to  the  left  is  a  Cordoaria  or  ropery. 

Qii  reaching  Belem  (Brit,  vice-consul),  we  follow  the  long  Rua 
de  Junqueira  to  the  Pbaca  db  Dom  Fbbnando.  On  the  N.  side  of 
this  square,  at  the  corner  of  the  Oal^ada  d'Ajuda,  lies  the  Paoo 
bb  Bblbm,  an  unpretending  building,  generally  used  for  the  hous- 
ing of  royal  guests.  It  is  also  known  as  the  Qumta  de  Baixo  in  distinc- 
tion to  the  Quinta  de  Oima,  situated  a  little  to  the  N.  Behind  the 
palace  is  a  garden  with  a  small  menagerie.  Near  it  is  the  PieadeirOj 
or  riding  school. 

The  monotonous  Gal^ada  d'Ajuda  leads  to  the  N.E.  to  the  inter- 
esting Depddto  das  Cammgens  Reaes,  or  royal  coach-houses  (adm.  on 
application  to  the  superintendent). 

The  most  interesting  state-carriages  are  that  of  Philip  III.  (1619);  an- 
other of  1656;  the  bridal  chariot  of  Peter  II.  and  his  wife;  the  chariot 
(made  at  Paris  in  1666)  given  by  Louis  XIV.  to  the  Princess  of  Savoy  on 
her  marriage  with  Affonso  VI. ;  two  of  John  V.  (1727  and  1708),  the  latter 
of  which  was  used  at  the  marris^e  of  the  present  king.  Donkey-carriages; 
carriages  for  children;  old  cabriolets.  The  'seges'  were  in  use  down  to 
the  middle  of  the  present  century.  —  Here  also  are  kept  the  vehicles  on 
which  the  images  of  saints  are  borne  through  the  streets  on  high  festivals. 

At  the  end  of  the  street  stands  the  royal  Palace  of  Aj^^&t 
splendidly  situated  on  the  hill  above  Belem  and  now  occupied  by  tbe 
Queen-Dowager  Maria  Pia.  It  was  erected  by  John  VI.  on  the  site 
of  a  temporary  wooden  building  that  sheltered  the  royal  family  for 
some  time  after  the  earthquake,  and  has  never  been  finished.  The 
main  facade  is  turned  towards  the  E.   Yisitors  are  seldom  admitted. 

The  vestibule  contains  44  lifesize  marble  statues  by  /.  Machado  de  Gastro 
and  others.  The  state-rooms  are  hung  with  numerous  pictures  by  Cyrillo 
Machado y  Sequeira^  and  Tabor^  Vieira  Portueme.  The  Sala  ds  Tocha,  the 
largest  room  (E.  side),  contains '  fcenes  from  the  life  of  John  IV.  by  Ta- 
bordaf  in  the  Sala  de  Addiencia  is  a  representation  of  the  return  of 
John  VI.  from  Brazil.  Court  receptions  are  held  in  the  Sala  das  Bei- 
JAMA  OS  (^kissing  hands').  —  The  well-arranged  Libbabt  contains  a  col- 
lection of  costly  Church  Plate  from  Belem  (see  above),  wrought  from  the  first 
gold  brought  home  by  Vasco  da  Gama  from  India.  Here,  too,  are  the 
sword  of  Nimo  Alvarea  Pereira  (p.  622),  a  'gorgelim'  (gorget)  of  Francis  I. 
of  France,  and  several  trophies. 

Nearly  opposite  the  S.W.  angle  of  the  palace  is  the  entrance  to 
the  Botanic  Gabdbn  (if  closed,  the  visitor  should  send  in  his  card 
to  the  Director;  fee  to  the  superintendent  100  rs.).  At  the  entrance 
of  the  lower  garden  are  the  statues  of  two  warriors ,  excavated  at 
Lezenho  (p.  510)  in  1785  and  probably  of  Celtic  origin.  Above  the 
gate  are  the  busts  of  two  Roman  emperors.  The  fountain  is  adorned 
with  figures  of  all  manner  of  crawling  things.  By  the  flight  of 
steps  leading  to  the  shady  upper  garden  is  a  statue  in  Roman  dress. 

From  the  Botanic  Garden  a  sunny  street  descends  to  the  S.W. 
to  the  insignificant  churcb  of  8Uo  Joie  or  Memoria^  founded  on 
Sept.  3rd,  1760,  on  the  spot  where  King  Joseph  I.  had  been  sbot 
at  and  wounded  two  years  before. 

The  Duke  of  Aveiro,  the  Marquis  and  Marchioness  of  Tavora,  and  the 
Count  of  AtOuguia  were  found  guilty  of  this  crime  and  were  executed 


536  BouU55.  LISBON.  Belem. 

here,  along  with  four  subordinate  conspirators,  ten  days  after  the  attempt. 
Their  bodies  were  burned  and  their  ashes  scattered  in  the  Tagus.  Pombal 
used  the  opportunity  to  implicate  the  Jesuits  and  to  expel  that  order  from 
Portugal,  and  they  on  their  side  stigmatised  the  whole  affair  as  a  sham 
plot  arranged  by  the  marquis.  —  The  palace  of  the  Dake  of  Aveirb  was 
torn  down,  while  its  site  was  strewn  with  salt  and  forbidden  to  be  used  for 
any  otiiar  building.  The  spot,  near  the  Pafo  de  Belem,  now  almost  con- 
cealed by  small  houses,  is  still  marked  by  a  column. 

The  Btieet  ends  at  the  Bpacious  grounds  of  the  Praga  de  Yaseo 
da  Gama,  'with  the  once  famous  Hieronymite  Gonvent  of  Belem. 

The  **Co]ivento  dos  Jeronymos  de  BMm  (t.e.  Bethlehem) 
occupies  the  site  of  a  StameiCi  Home  and  the  Ermida  of  Nona  Sen- 
hora  do  BoiteUOj  founded  by  Prince  Henry  the  Navigator.,  Yasco 
da  Gama  here  spent  the  night  before  he  started  on  his  voyage  of 
discovery  (July  8th,  1497),  and  here  he  was  received  by  Emmanuel  L 
on  his  return  in  1499.  The  king  had  vowed  to  erect  here  a  convent 
to  the  Virgin  if  the  enterprize  were  successful,  and  he  laid  the 
foundation-stone  of  the  building  within  a  few  weeks  of  the  ex- 
plorer's return.  The  general  design  of  the  convent  was  furnished  by 
Boutacaj  an  architect  of  whose  work  we  have  other  specimens  at 
Setubal  (p.  646);  its  execution  and  details  were  due  to  the  great 
master  Jodo  de  Castilho  (ca.  1490-1581),  who  undertook  the  super- 
iuteudenee  of  the  building  in  1517.  In  1551  John  III.  discontinued 
the  work.  The  buildings  are  very  extensive.  To  the  S.,  next  the 
Tagus ,  is  the  church  of  Santa  Maria ,  the  atrium  of  which  has  dis- 
appeared. To  the  W.  of  this  lies  the  narrow  S.  wing,  606  ft.  in  length, 
the  groundfloor  of  which  consists  of  an  open  hall,  while  the  upper 
contains  the  cells  and  dormitories  of  the  monks.  To  the  N.  of  the 
church  lie  the  Cloisters^  adjoined  on  the  W.  by  the  refectory,  on  the 
E.  by  the  sacristy  and  chapter-room.  The  buildings  adjoining  the 
N.  walk  of  the  cloisters  and  the  whole  of  a  second  court  have  van- 
ished. On  the  height  to  the  extreme  N.  stands  the  small  Capella 
dos  Jeronymos, 

On  the.  suppression  of  the  convent  in  1834,  its  buildings  were 
assigned  to  the  Casa  Pia ,  an  orphanage  established  by  Maria  I.  in 
the  castle  of  St.  George  (p.  528).  The  increasing  number  of  pupils 
necessitated  (1859)  large  additions  in  the  shape  of  bedrooms,  school- 
rooms, and  baths ;  and  these  were  erected  from  a  very  unsatisfactory 
design  by  the  painters  RamboU  and  Cinati.  The  upper  floor  of  the 
S.  wing  was  restored  in  a  kind  of  'Emmanuel  style'  and  provided 
with  a  large  central  tower.  The  latter  collapsed  in  1878,  and  is  to 
be  re-erected.  In  spite  of  these  disfigurements,  the  edifice  still 
produces  a  very  impressive  effect,  heightened  by  its  open  and  lonely 
situation  on  the  bank  of  the  Tagus  and  by  the  fine  white  limestone 
from  the  Alcantara  valley  (p.  634)  of  which  it  is  built. 

The  Abchitbctu&ai.  Sttlb  of  the  building  is  the  so-called  Arte  Mano- 

€lina^  or  style  of  Emmanuel,  which  came  into  vogue  about  1480  and  is  so 

named  after  King  Emmanuel  I.  (1496-1521),  surnamed  the  Fortunate  (o  Ven- 

-"90).    To  this  great  monarch  is  due  a  large  number  of  similar  buildings, 

nly  in  Portugal  itself  but  also  in  its  colonies.    It  may  be  called  a 


Belem.  LISBON.  55.  Route.   537 

kind  of  'Gothic  Transition  style**  and  is  a  late  and  exuberantly  rich  de- 
velopment of  Gothic,  the  details  of  which  have  been  largely  borrowed 
from  the  decorative  forms  of  the  Early  Renaissance,  from  the  sumptuous 
buildings  of  India,  and  from  the  Moors  (the  last  mainly  in  the  S.  part  of 
Portugal).  This  blended  style  is  often  fantastic  and  has  a  decided  tend- 
ency to  over -elaboration ,  but  it  is  interesting  even  in  its  extravagances. 
It  was  ultimately  replaced  by  the  Renaissance  style  introduced  by  the 
colony  of  French  sculptors  at  Coimbra  (ca.  1530),  by  the  Jesuit  style  under 
John  III.,  and  by  the  forms  of  the  late-Renaissance  of  Italy  favoured  during 
the  period  of  the  Spanish  domination. 

The  church  of  *Santa  Makia,  at  the  S.E.  angle  of  the  monas- 
tery, is  the  burial-place  of  Emmanuel  and  his  successors,  and  is 
celebrated  for  the  gorgeous  architecture  of  its  S.  facade.  The  superb 
*Main  Entrance,  39  ft.  wide  and  104  ft.  high,  was  designed  by  Joao 
de  Castilho  and  is  lavishly  adorned  with  sculptures  by  Master  Ni- 
cholas, 'the  Frenchman'  (p.  567).  It  is  framed  by  two  buttresses 
and  a  large  circular  arch ,  the  latter  surmounted  by  a  statue  of  the 
Virgin.  Above  is  a  wealth  of  pinnacles,  niches,  and  balconies;  and 
at  the  very  top,  rising  over  the  beautiful  open  parapet  of  the  roof, 
is  a  canopy  surmounted  by  the  cross  of  the  Order  of  Christ  (p.  561). 
Below,  on  a  corbel  between  the  doors,  is  a  statue  of  Vasco  da  Gama 
(or  Henry  the  Navigator?).  Mr.  Fergusson  finds  this  portal  *very 
impressive  and  pleasing ,  in  spite  of  all  that  can  be  said  against 
its  taste',  and  he  notes  its  similarity  in  design  and  detail  to  the 
chapel  at  Boslln  (see  Baedeker's  Oreat  Britain).  To  the  right  and 
left  of  the  portal  are  lofty  round-headed  windows.  The  rest  of  the 
S.  facade  is  simpler,  with  the  exception  of  the  elaborate  cornice  and 
parapet.  The  Choir,  built  by  Diogo  de  Torsalva  in  1551  to  replace 
the  small  original  choir,  is  very  plain  in  style. 

The  W.  Portal,  sadly  mutilated  on  the  construction  of  the  por- 
tico, is  also  freely  adorned  with  sculptures  by  Nicholas  the  French- 
man ,  including  groups  of  King  Emmanuel  with  St.  Jerome  and 
Queen  Maria  with  John  the  Baptist.  Of  the  Towers  of  the  W.  facade 
that  to  the  S.  has  alone  been  completed ,  and  it  is  disfigured  with 
an  inharmonious  dome  added  at  the  ^restoration'  in  place  of  the  orig- 
inal conical  roof. 

The  Intbbiob,  302  ft.  long  and  82  ft.  high,  consists  of  a  nave  and  aisles, 
a  high-choir  at  the  W.  end,  a  transept  without  aisles,  and  a  semicircular 
apse.  The  nave  and  aisles  together  are  74  ft.  across ;  the  superb  transept 
is  95  ft.  long  and  62  ft.  wide.  There  are  two  chapels  on  the  groundfloor 
of  the  towers,  adjoined  by  other  two  below  the  projecting  high-choir  (coro 
alio).  The  bold  groining  of  the  nave  is  supported  by  two  massive  piers  at 
the  crossing  and  by  six  other  slender  and  ornate  pillars ,  the  two  W.  of 
which  rise  from  the  high-choir.  Almost  all  the  light  is  admitted  through 
the  portal  and  through  the  S.  windows  with  their  fantastic  rosettes  ^  and 
the  general  effect  is  pleasant  and  reposeful. 

In  the  K.  aisle  are  twelve  Confessionals,  which  are  also  accessible  from 
the  cloisters  (see  below).  —  The  "S.  chapel  of  the  transept  contains  a 
lifelike  Figure  of  St.  Jerome^  of  which  Philip  II.  is  reported  to  have  said 
^Estoy  esperando  que  me  habla'  (I  am  waiting  for  it  to  speak  to  me).  — 
The  Renaissance  capella-mdr  is  entered  through  a  magnificent  arch,  with 
richly  adorned  Pulpits  on  each  side  of  it.  To  the  right  and  left,  in  recesses 
and  borne  by  elephants,  are  the  small  Sarcophagi  of  Emmanuel  and  Queen 
Maria,  John  IV,  and  Q««6»  Catharine  of  Austria.   The  'Cardinal-King'  Henry, 


538  BouU65.  LISBON.  BeUm, 

JffoMo  VI.j  Catharine  of  Braganza  (1638-1706),  wife  of  Charles  II.  of  Eng- 
land, and  other  'royal  personages  are  interred  in  the  chapel  beyond  the 
capella-m6r.  In  the  two  side-chapels  lie  the  eight  Children  of  John  III. 
Here,  too,  is  the  cenotaph  of  King  Sebcutian^  who  disappeared  without  trace 
at  the  battle  of  Al-Kasr  al  Eebir  (1578).  The  remains  of  Vasco  da  Gama 
and  Camoens  have  lain  here  only  since  1880.  The  scenes  from  the  Passion, 
in  the  apse,  are  by  Christovao  Lope*  (1516-1600).  —  The  Goro  Alto  (entr., 
see  below)  has  beaatiful  *Renaiiu€mee  StcUU  of  1560,  with  exqnisite  panels. 

The  door  next  the  W.  portal  of  the  church  leads  to  the  Casa  Pia 
and  the  cloisters  (ring ;  fee  150-200  rs.)* 

The  superb  ♦♦Cloisters  (Clauairo),  the  masterpiece  of  Joao  de 
Castilho,  are  in  the  form  of  a  square  of  about  180  ft.,  with  hlunted 
coiners.  They  are  surrounded  hy  a  two-storied  arcade  and  form  the 
main  glory  of  the  convent.  The  beautiful  groining,  the  round-headed 
windows  with  their  graceful  columns  and  exquisite  tracery,  and  the 
wealth  of  Renaissance  ornamentation  applied  to  all  available  sur- 
faces combine  to  make  a  visit  to  these  cloisters  a  thing  never 
to  be  forgotten.  The  present  cloister-garth  or  garden  was  formerly 
occupied  (till  1833)  hy  a  small  pond  with  star-shaped  islets,  in  the 
midst  of  which  rose  the  fountain  now  at  the  N.W.  angle  of  the  court. 
A  flight  of  steps  adjoining  the  fountain  ascends  to  the  upper  arcade 
and  to  the  coro  alto  of  the  church  (see  ahove). 

The  8€icristy,  at  the  S.E.  comer  of  the  cloisters,  is  a  square  room 
with  a  Renaissance  pillar  resembling  a  candelabrum.  —  To  the  N. 
of  it  is  the  old  Chapter  Boonij  with  a  modern  vaulting;  since  1888 
It  has  contained  the  tomb  of  Alexandre  Herculano  (1810-77),  the 
novelist  and  historian. 

The  Refectory^  on  the  W.  side  of  the  cloisters,  a  large  rectangular 
structure  of  solid  masonry,  is  covered  with  fine  reticulated  groining. 
The  lower  part  of  the  waUs  is  lined  with  beautiful  tiles  of  the  18th 
century.   At  the  S.  end  is  a  much-damaged  Holy  Family  by  Diaa, 

To  the  K.  of  the  cloisters  is  the  Capella  doe  Jeronymos^  an  almost  cu- 
bical structure  with  a  good  portal  and  a  rectangular  apse.  The  interior 
ahould  be  visited  for  its  fine  vaulting  and  three  tiled  altars. 

The  modern  portion  of  the  Casa  Pia  includes  eight  large  dormi- 
tories (Dormitorios),  an  interesting  bath-room  (8ala  dos  BanhosJ, 
and  other  apartments.  The  Sola  dos  ReU  contains  a  series  of  por- 
traits of  the  Portuguese  kings  down  to  John  VI.,  omitting  the  Span- 
ish *Intruso8*.   The  earlier  ones  are  imaginary. 

'Emmanuers  face  is  pale,  delicate,  and  intelligent,  but  not  without  a 
trace  of  melancholy  in  its  expression ;  he  recalls  the  Stuarts.  The  young 
hero  Sebastian  stands  with  half-drawn  sword,  as  if  ready  to  spring  from 
the  fiame  into  the  room  and  thence  into  the  world  of  action.  In  a  dusky 
comer  is  the  efflgy  of  Pedro  I.,  the  Cruel  or  the  Severe,  as  history  names 
him.  The  repulsive,  frog-like  visage  of  Joao  VI.  is  also  on  show'  (PHnce 
Liehnowshy). 

At  the  W.  end  of  the  uncompleted  8,  Wing  is  the  Mmeu  Indus- 
trial e  Commercial  de  Lishoa  (adm.,  see  p.  517),  opened  in  1883. 

About  3/4  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  the^Pra^a  de  Vasco  da  Gama,  on  the 
Tagus,  stands  the  ♦Tower  of  Belem  (Torre  de  Sao  Vieexiie)^  one  of 
the  most  interesting  structures  in  Lisbon.  It  was  completed  in  1620, 


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in  the  reign  of  Emmanuel,  for  the  protection  of  the  Tagus,  and  is 
said  to  be  modelled  on  an  old  design  by  Qa/rcia  da  Resende.  It  stood 
originally  on  a  rocky  islet  in  the  stream ,  and  its  picturesque  effect 
has  been  somewhat  marred  by  the  silting  up  of  the  channel  between 
it  and  the  laud  and  by  the  adjacent  factories. 

The  lower  part  of  the  tower  is  adjoined  by  a  kind  of  Platforv,  pro- 
jecting oyer  the  river  and  enclosed  by  a  parapet  with  battlements  and  the 
shields  of  the  Knights  of  Christ;  at  the  comers  are  six  tasteful  turrets,  copied 
from  originals  in  India.  The  square  Towbb  itself  is  adorned  on  the  river- 
side by  a  balcony  with  a  traceried  parapet  and  round-headed  windows, 
and  on  the  oUier  sides  by  bow-windows.  Higher  up  the  tower  is  girt  with 
a  passage  (curseria)  for  the  use  of  the  defenders.  The  flat  roof  is  adorned 
with  four  Indian  turrets. 

The  iMTBBioa  (special  permission  necessary)  contains  seyeral  square 
rooms,  all  of  which  have  been  repeatedly  restored.  The  8ala  Btgia  pos- 
sesses curious  acoustic  properties.  The  Dungeom  in  the  basement  receive 
light  and  air  only  through  gratings  in  the  floor  of  the  casemates.  Under 
U iguel  they  were  filled,  like  the  Limoeiro  (p.  528),  with  political  prisoners. 
The  view  from  the  platform  is  superb. 

From  the  tower  we  may  proceed,  passing  a  fort  and  several 
bathing-houses,  to  the  station  of  PedrouQos  (p.  540),  or  we  may 
return  to  Belem  and  ferry  thence  to  Trafaria  (p.  540). 


56.  Environs  of  Lisbon. 

a.  Lumiar  and  Odivellas. 

This  is  a  pleasant  drive  of  2-3  hrs.  (carriage,  see  p.  615).  There  is  a 
tramway  to  Lumiar  (Ko.  3,  p.  516). 

We  leave  Lisbon  by  the  Porta  de  8do  SebcLsti&o  da  Pedreita,  at 
the  end  of  the  Rua  de  Dona  Estephania  (PI.  G,  1),  and  proceed  to 
the  N.  along  the  road  to  Torres  Vedras  (p.  551).  In  Campo  Pequeno 
lies  the  new  Bull  Ring  of  Lisbon  (p.  517).  Campo  Orande^  with  a 
church  dedicated  to  the  Magi  and  a  fine  promenade  laid  out  at  the 
end  of  the  18th  cent,  by  Count  Linhares ,  is  much  frequented  on 
Thurs.  and  Sun.  by  the  fashionables  of  Lisbon.  —  A  little  farther 
on  is  — 

Lumiar,  celebrated  for  the  beautiful  ^Quintas  or  parks  of  the 
DuquedePalmella,  the  Marques  deAngeja,  and  the  Marques  d' OlhSo. 
The  public  is  freely  admitted ;  tickets  for  the  llrst-named  park  may 
also  be  obtained  at  the  Lisbon  palace  of  the  duke,  in  the  Rate.  — 
Farther  on ,  about  5  M.  from  the  Porta  de  Sao  Sebastiao ,  is  the 
Quinta  de  Nova  Cintra,  a  favourite  pleasure-garden.  A  little  beyond 
this,  to  the  W.  of  the  road,  lies  — 

Odivellas,  with  a  Cistercian  nunnery  founded  in  1305  by  King 
Diniz,  who  is  interred  In  its  church.  The  choir  contains  three  pic- 
tures ascribed  to  Velasco  (p.  567).  At  the  portal  is  a  Turkish 
cannon-ball  from  the  siege  of  Ormuz ,  sent  hither  by  the  Spanish 
commandant,  Alvaro  de  Noronha. 

Beyond  Odivellas  the  road  leads  vi&  (10  M.)  Lowes  to  the  Cdbeza  de 
ifontachique  (1332  ft.),  on  the 'inner  line'  of  the  fortifications  of  Torres  Ve- 


540  Route  66.  GAGILHAS.  Environs 

drM,  and  to  pQvoa  da  Oalega  (476  ft.)  and  the  Ataiaia  (7u«ar(1090  ft.).  It  then 
descends  rU  Enxara  do*  Cavalteiroi.  Marmelo*  Bdo  SebatiiSo^  and  Mugideira 
to  (68  M.)  Torre$  Vedrat  (p.  661). 

b.  Caeillias. 

steamer  from  the  Caes  do  Sodr^  to  Caeilhasy  see  p.  516.  In  Cacilhas 
omnibuses ,  carriages ,  and  donkeys  are  in  waiting  (bargaining  necessary). 

Caeilhas^  situated  on  a  promontory  immediately  opposite  Lisbon, 
is  a  small  harbour  with  copious  springs ,  where  ships  lay  in  their 
supplies  of  fresh  water.  A  road  ascends  hence  to  AlmadA.  From 
the  Fort  and  the  church  of  8So  Paulo  we  enjoy  a  fine  ♦View  of 
Lisbon  (best  by  morning-light],  of  the  topography  of  which  we  here 
gain  an  excellent  idea. 

Palmella  and  Seiubalf  see  p.  646. 

From  Almada  we  may  proceed  to  the  W.  vii  Pragal  and  throngh  the 
wine-growing  district  of  Cmp<ariea  to  (6  M.)  Trafaria,  Uie  home  of  the  bold 
fishermen  who  supply  the  markets  of  Lisbon.  Their  boats  (savHrot)  are 
so  constructed  as  to  sail  either  backwards  or  forwards.  A  little  to  the 
£.  of  Trafaria  lies  the  Leuar^tQ^  erected  in  1867  after  the  epidemic  of 
yellow  fever.  The  sandy  beach  between  Trafaria  and  the  Torre  de  JBngio 
(p.  641)  is  devoid  of  interest.    From  Trafaria  we  can  cross  to  Belem  (p.  f&S). 

0.  Estoril  and  Casoaes. 

IBM.  Railway  (8-10  trains  daUy)  in  IVihr.  (fares  480,  370,  250 rs.; 
return-tickets  issued).  Trains  start  from  the  Ca€t  de  Sodri  (p.  516);  and 
passengers  in  the  W.  quarters  of  the  city  may  also  take  the  train  at  the 
BHagao  de  Bantos  or  Alcantara-Mar  (to  the  W.  of  PI.  A,  4).  '  There  are 
good  yiew-carriages  of  the  first  and  second  class.    Views  to  the  left. 

The  train  skirts  the  Rua  Vinte  e  Quatro  de  Julho  (p.  534)  and 
the  new  harbour-works.  To  the  right  is  the  small  EstoQdo  de  Santos 
(p.  614).  We  then  pass  the  mouth  of  the  Alcantara  (p.  534)  and 
reach  Aledntara-Mar, 

Beyond  this  point  the  train  continues  to  skirt  the  Tagus,  running 
mainly  on  newly  reclaimed  soil  and  affording  good  views  of  the  S. 
bank.  3  M.  Junqueira  (p.  634);  38/4  M.  Belem  (p.  535).  On  the 
height  to  the  right  is  the  Palace  of  Ajuda  (p.  535) ;  to  the  left,  across 
the  Tagus,  is  the'Lazareto  (see  above). — Farther  on  we  pass  the  Lisbon 
Gas  Works  and  (left)  the  Torre  de  Belem  (p.  538),  with  its  fort,  and 
reach  the  small  bathing-place  of  PedrouQos^  the  extreme  W.  part  of 
'Greater  Lisbon'  (p.  519).  On  the  left  bank  of  the  river  is  seen  Trafaria 
(see  above).  —  51/2  M.  Algis,  with  good  sea-bathing,  Is  the  terminus 
of  the  tramway-line  (p.  516).  6V4  M.  Ddfundo  and  (71/2  M.)  Cruz 
Qv£brada  lie  at  the  entrance  of  the  pretty  Jamor  Valley. 

*  The  hills  of  Estremadura  now  approach  the  expanding  Tagus. 
CaxiaSj  the  next  station,  has  a  royal  palace.  To  the  left  is  a  fort.  — 
At  the  favourite  sea-bathing  resort  of  (9Y4M.)  Pa^o  ^Areos  (R6t,  Casa 
de  Bizoma)  we  enjoy  a  good  retrospect  of  the  Torre  de  Belem.  To 
the  right  are  the  hills  of  Gintra.  To  the  left  we  see  the  mouth  of 
the  Tagus  and  the  sea-coast  of  Portugal,  as  far  S.  as  the  Cabo  de 

piehel. 


of  Lisbon.  CASCAES.  56.  Route.    541 

The  Sntrada  do  Teio,  or  Month  of  the  Tagns,  is  divided  into  the 
Corredor  (N.)  and  the  Barra  Qrande  (S.)  by  a  reef  named  the  LiUU  C€h 
ehopo.  On  the  Cachopo  Orande,  as  the  ever-growing  sand-dunes  to  the  S. 
are  named,  stands  Fort  Lcurengo  do  Bugio,  with  a  lighthouse,  86  ft.  high, 
the  light  of  which  is  visible  for  16  sea-miles.  Fort  8ao  JuliSoy  built  by 
Philip  II.  of  Spain  on  a  point  of  the  N.  coast,  has  a  lighthouse  150  ft.  high. 

The  train  now  runs  slightly  inland  to  (IOY2M.)  Odrtu,  with  the 
oi-devant  country-house  of  Pombal.  To  the  left  aie  the  old  and  new 
forts  of  Sao  Juliio  and  (farther  on)  the  telegraph  building  of  the 
submarine  cable  to  the  Canaries  and  Brazil.  —  Beyond  (12  M.) 
CarcaveUos,  which  is  noted  for  its  wine,  we  traverse  a  monotonous 
hill-district,  with  views  of  the  sea  to  the  left.  I2V2  M.  Parede ;  13  V2  M. 
8So  JoOo  de  Estoril;  15  M.  Estonia  with  sea  and  alkaline  baths.  — 
15 V2  M.  Xont  d'Estoril  (H6t,  Mont  d'Estoril ;  Restaurant  Club,  with 
bedrooms  and  view),  charmingly  situated  on  the  slope  of  the  hill, 
amid  groves  of  pine,  eucalyptus,  and  palms,  contains  many  villas 
of  Lisbon  merchants. 

16  M.  Cascaes  (H6t,  Central,  H6t.  Olobo,  both  unpretending),  a 
favourite  sea-bathing  place,  1  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Mont  d'Estoril,  has 
the  country-residence  of  the  Duchess  of  Palmella. 

A  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made  hence  to  the  *Boeea  do  Inferno 
Cmouth  of  heir).  1V«M.  to  the  S.W.,  a' row  of  cliffs,  80  ft.  high,  the 
lower  part  of  which  has  been  hollowed  out  by  the  sea.  The  surf  dashes 
against  them  with  a  roar  like  thunder,  especially  at  high-tide  and  with 
the  wind  from  the  S.W. 

Two  good  roads  (that  to  the  E.  the  shorter  but  more  monotonous) 
connect  Cascaes  with  Gintra  (see  below).  A  bridle-path,  diverging  from 
the  W.  road,  leads  to  the  Caibo  da  Boca  (p.  5A5). 

d.  Clntra. 

171/3  M.  Railway  (6-8  trains  daily)  in  I-IV4  hr.  (fares  620,  490,  350  rs.; 
there  and  back  1000,  700,  600  rs.).  Trains  start  from  the  Central  Railway 
Station  (p.  514).  Carriages  have  sometimes  to  be  changed  at  Cacem.  the 
junction  of  the  line  to  Mafra  and  Leiria  (B.  69).  —  Driving  from  Lisbon 
to  Cintra  (16  M. ;  carriages,  see  p.  616)  and  from  Cintra  to  Mafra  (12Vs  M.) 
is  not  recommended. 

From  Lisbon  to  (3V2  M.)  CampoUde,  see  p.  514.  —  The  train  now 
ascends  to  the  N.W.  through  the  valley  of  the  Alcantara.  4^/2  M. 
8So  Domingos;  71/2  M.  Bemflcaj  with  a  Dominican  convent,  founded 
in  1399,  restored  after  the  earthquake  of  1755,  and  containing  the 
remains  of  Joio  de  Castro  (p.  545).  We  now  run  towards  the  W., 
skirting  the  arches  of  the  old  Lisbon  aqueduct  (p.  525)  and  passing 
under  it  near  (8  M.)  Porcalhota  (420  ft.).  The  Jamor  i&  crossed.  — 
91/2  M.  Quelus'Bellas, 

A  road  descends  from  the  S.E.  through  the  valley  of  the  Jamor, 
passing  (8/4  M )  the  village  of  Queluz  de  Cima,  to  the  royal  chateau  of 
ftnelus  de  Baizo,  built  by  Peter  III.  In  the  Sola  de  Bom  Quijote,  adorned 
with  18  scenes  from  Cervantes'  romance,  is  shown  the  bed  in  which  Pe- 
ter IV.  (p.  576)  died.  The  Chapel  contains  an  agate  column,  presented 
by  Pius  VIII.    Beautiful  park. 

The  village  of  Bellas  (480  ft.),  2  X.  to  the  N.  of  the  railway,  with  the 
beautiful  quinta  of  the  Conde  de  Pombeiro,  is  visited  for  the  sake  of  its 
iron  spring.  A  little  to  the  E.  is  the  Outeiro  (698  ft.),  a  good  point  of  view. 


1-2  per8. 

3-4  pers. 

400  m. 

500  rs. 

1200  „ 

1700  „ 

2100  „ 

2600: 

2000, 

2500^ 

2500, 

3ooo; 

542   Route  so.  CINTRA.  Environs 

At  (13  M.)  Cacem  our  line  diverges  to  the  left  from  the  main  line 
to  Mafra  and  Leiria  (R.  69).  The  country  becomes  more  hilly ;  eu- 
calypti, pines,  and  olives  are  passed.  Beyond  a  cutting  the  hills  of 
Cintra  appear  to  the  left.  —  17^2  M.  Cintra, 

Cintra.  —  Hotels  (comp.  p.  502).  *Bol.  Laurmce,  at  the  W.  end  of 
the  village,  English  landlady,  *  Hotel  Netto^  with  &  small  garden,  B.  500, 
B.  200,  d^j.  with  wine  700,  D.  with  wine  POO,  pens.  1600-2000  vs.  (prices 
pnsted  up  in  the  rooms)^  *£[ot.  Nw»€9y  ac^oining  the  Palacio-  Beal,  pens. 
1600-2000  rs.   —  Priva'e  Lodgings  for  a  long  stay,  easily  obtained. 

Cabs  (excellent  vehicles  with  two  horses). 

From  or  to  the  Bail.  Station 

To  MofuerraU 

-  .  and  back,  with  stay  of  2  hrs. 

To  CoUares 

„         „         and  back,  with  stay  of  2  hrs. 

Omnibus  from  the  rail,  station  to  the  town  40  rs. 

Donkeys  (Burrinhot)  abound.  The  usual  charge  for  the  trip  to  Gabo 
de  Boca  or  for  the  round  trip  to  Pena,  Gastello  dos  Mouros,  Monserrate, 
and  back  to  Cintra  is  103-600  rs.  (bargaining  necessary);  the  driver  re- 
ceives the  same  amount,  with  a  gratuity  of  100  rs. 

Bull  King  (Profa  de  Touro$)y  near  the  railway-station. 

Chief  Attraetions.  It  is  possible,  though  somewhat  fatiguing,  to  visit 
the  Palacio  Real  and  make  the  above-mentioned  Round  Trip  (4-5  hrs.)  in 
one  day,  returning  to  Lisbon  by  an  evening-train  (provisions  and  an 
abundant  supply  of  small  change  necessary).  It  is,  however,  much  pre- 
ferable to  devote  two  days  to  Cintra.  1st  Day :  Palcuio  Real^  Pena^  Castello  dot 
Mouros.  2nd  Day:  Monserrate.  Collaret,  Cdbo  da  Roca.  In  the  proper 
season  Cintra  will  be  found  a  delightful  spot  for  a  stay  of  some  duration. 
—  The  cards  of  admission  to  the  Palacio  Beal  and  the  Castello  da  Pena 
»re  issued  at  the  Necessidades  Palace  (p.  533)  at  Lisbon.  When  the  court 
is  at  Cintra,  the  palaces  are  shown  on  Sun.  only. 

Cintra  (680  ft.),  a  town  with  3800  inhab.,  lies  at  the  N.  base  of 
the  Serra  de  Cintrtty  the  Monies  Lunae  of  the  Romans,  on  a  promon- 
tory flanked  by  two  ravines.  It  is  huried  amid  woods  of  evergreen 
oaks  and  pines,  and  is  surrounded  by  numerous  pleasant  country 
houses.  To  the  E.  it  Is  adjoined  hy  the  Arrahalde  fsuburb')  de  Sdo 
Pedro.  Immediately  over  the  town  rises  a  rocky  crag  crowned  by  the 
Moorish  castle  (p.  544).  Beyond  this  rises  the  Pena  (1735  ft. ;  p.  544), 
the  second-highest  summit  of  the  range.  The  situation  somewhat 
resembles  that  of  Frascati  and  other  places  in  the  Alban  Mts.,  but 
has  the  additional  advantages  of  a  more  luxuriant  vegetation  and 
the  propinquity  of  the  sea.  Byron  calls  Cintra  a  'Glorious  Eden', 
Southey  writes  of  it  as  *the  most  blessed  spot  in  the  habitable  globe', 
and  a  Spanish  proverb  says  *dejar  a  Cintra,  y  ver  al  mundo  entero, 
es,  con  verdad,  caminar  en  capuchera'  (*to  see  the  world,  and  yet 
leave  Cintra  out,  Is,  verily,  to  go  blindfold  about'). 

Cintra  was  fortified  by  the  Moors,  and  after  the  conquest  of  Lis- 
bon (1147)  became  the  summer-residence  of  the  Portuguese  kings. 
King  Charles  now  occupies  the  Castello  da  Pena,  while  the  Palacio 
Real  is  assigned  to  the  Queen  Dowager  Maria  Pia.  The  town  sub- 
-^Ists  almost  wholly  on  the  court  and  the  visits  of  strangers. 


of  Lisbon,  CINTRA.  56.  Route,  bid 

The  railway- station  U  about  */2  M.  from  the  PaA9A  db  Ointra, 
the  centre  of  the  little  town,  with  a  late-Gothic  Pelourinko  (p.  631) 
of  stone,  now  used  as  the  adornment  of  a  fountain ,  and  the  main 
entrance  of  the  royal  palace. 

The  *Palacio  Beal  (bell  by  the  staircase  In  the  court  to  the  left, 
adjoining  the  archway;  fee  to  *almoxarife'  200 rs.)  was  built  in  the 
14-15th  cent  by  John  I.,  Affonso  V.,  and  John  II.,  on  the  site  of 
the  Moorish  palace.  The  K.  wing,  the  Sala  das  Armas,  and  the  Bath 
Grotto  date  from  the  time  of  Emmanuel  the  Fortunate.  The  older 
parts  were  erected  by  Mozarabic  workmen  in  a  Moorish  style  re- 
sembling that  of  the  buildings  of  Evbra,  and  show  a  mixture  of  Moorish 
and  late-Gothic  elements ;  the  later  parts  are  in  the  'Emmanuel' 
style  (p.  536).  The  most  characteristic  features  of  the  exterior  are 
the  two  prominent  conical  kitohen-chimneys ,  the  horseshoe  and 
cusped  arches  of  the  Moorish  windows,  and  the  Moorish  battlemented 
parapet.  The  rich  mural  tiles  and  the  covered  wooden  ceilings  of  the 
interior  are  also  an  inheritance  from  the  Moorish  period. 

In  front  of  the  central  structure  is  a  Platfobm  or  Terrace,  on  the 
left  side  of  which  is  a  fine  ForUil  in  the  Italian  early-Benaissance  style, 
attributed  to  Andrea  Sansovino  (?). 

First  Floor.  The  Waiting  Room  contains  an  Italian  ^Chimney  Piece 
(fogao)  in  the  Renaissance  style,  formerly  at  Almeirim  (p.  512)  and  wrongly 
ascribed  to  Michael  Angelo.  —  The  prettily  furnished  Sola  dos  Gysne*  is 
so  called  from  the  27  swans  on  the  ceiling.  —  The  so-called  Cabinet  is  the 
room  in  which  King  Sebastian  the  Desired  (^o  desejado'),  the  ^Charles  XII. 
of  Portugar,  decided  on  the  ill-starred  campaign  against  Morocco  (June 24th, 
1578).  It  contains  his  arm-chair  and  the  bench  of  his  councillors,  covered 
with  tiles  adorned  with  vine- tendrils.  —  The  Sala  da*  Pegcu  is  named 
from  the  magpies  (pegas)  painted  on  the  frieze  and  ceiling,  holding  in 
their  beaks  labels  with  the  words  *por  bem"*  ('in  honour"*;  honi  soit  qui 
mal  y  pense).  John  I.,  surprized  by  his  wife  Philippa  of  Lancaster  in 
the  act  of  kissing  one  of  the  ladies-in-waiting,  is  said  to  have  excused 
himself  with  these  words,  and  afterwards  had  the  paintings  made  to  re- 
prove the  gossip  of  the  court. 

Second  Floor.  The  Sala  das  Armas  or  dos  Cervos  is  a  square  apart- 
ment, lined  with  blue  tiles  and  covered  by  a  lofty  octagonal  dome  of 
timber  (restored  in  the  17th  cent.).  The  centre  of  the  ceiling  contains 
the  arms  of  the  King  and  Infantes,  surrounded  by  those  of  72  noble  Portu- 
guese families  of  the  time  of  Emmanuel,  painted  on  shields  hanging  from 
the  necks  of  stags.  Those  of  the  Aveiros  and  Tavoras  (see  p.  535)  have 
been  obliterated.  Bound  the  frieze  are  the  words  'Com  estas  e  outras  taes 
Devem  de  ser  conservadas,  Pois  com  esfor^os  leaes  Services  foram  gan- 
hadas'  ('As  these  by  courage  and  by  loyal  services  were  gained.  By  such 
and  others  like  them  must  they  be  maintained').  —  The  Chapel  has  fine 
barrel-vaulting  of  wood.  Adjacent  is  the  Room  in  which  the  luckless 
King  Affonso  VI-  was  confined  after  his  deposition  (1667)  and  finally 
died  on  Sept.  12th,  16^3,  while  listening  to  the  mass  through  an  opening 
in  the  wall. 

The  tasteful  Casa  d'Agua,  or  Bathing  Grotto,  acljoining  the  handsome 
Patio^  hides  various  watery  surprizes  for  the  unwary  visitor.  The  artistic 
Conduit,  which  runs  throughout  the  palace,  is  said  to  be  a  Moorish  work. 

The  ExcuKsioN  to  the  Pena  and  the  Moorish  Castlb  takes 
2V2-3  hrs.  The  pleasant  and  shady  bridle-path  passes  (right)  the 
old  convent  of  Trindade  and  the  (left)  suburb  of  Sdo  Pedro  (p.  542). 
The  trees  are  mainly  pines,  interspersed  with  a  few  eucalypti.  The 


541   Route  56.  CINTRA.  Environs 

donkeys  are  left  at  the  Porta  ^incipal  of  tlie  park,  which  contains 
cedars,  yews,  elms,  siWer  firs,  hydrangeas,  and  other  yarieties  of 
ornamental  timber.  A  guide  (not  indispensable;  ^00-300  rs.)  ac- 
companies the  visitor  to  the  castle  and  then  down  to  a  side-gate  to 
the  W.,  where  the  donkeys  will  be  fonnd  waiting. 

On  the  rocky  summit  of  the  Pena  (1735  ft.)  stood  a  con  vent  built 
by  Emmanuel  in  1503  and  used  as  a  prison  for  the  monks  of  Belem 
(p.  536).  The  King-Coruort  Ferdimmd  of  Cobwrg  (p.  520)  erected 
in  its  place  the  Cattello  da  Pena,  a  reproduction  of  a  mediasval 
castle  from  the  design  of  Col,  Eschwege,  and  couTeited  the  hillside 
into  a  charming  park. 

Two  gates  and  a  rocky  archway  form  the  entrance  to  the  castle,  which 
is  surrounded  by  a  gallery  affording  beautiful  views.  The  main  tower  is 
a  copy  of  the  Torre  de  Belem  (p.  638). 

The  iNTSBios  (castellan  15O-30O  rs.)  is  entered  by  a  vestibule  with  a 
pyramidal  tower,  formerly  the  Convent  Church.  The  wall-tiles  and  retic- 
ulated vaulting  deserve  attention.  The  magnificent  ^Renaissance  Altar 
of  marble  and  alabaster,  with  scenes  from  the  Passion,  comes  from  the 
convent  of  Belem  and  is  by  Nicolas  Chatranez  (1532).  Adjacent  are  the 
old  two-storied  Cloittart.  —  The  castle  itself  contains  little  of  interest. 
The  SeUa  de  Veadoe ,  adorned  with  fine  antlers ,  includes  a  specimen  of 
Brouwer  among  a  number  of  worthless  pictures.  The  huge  cupola  over 
this  room  affords  a  fine  ^Panorama  of  the  province  of  Estremadura,  from 
Gape  Espichel  on  the  8.E.  to  the  Berlengas  (p.  651)  on  the  N.  To  the  £. 
are  seen  a  few  buildings  of  Lisbon  and  the  plain  to  the  S.  of  the  Tagns. 
The  grandest  feature  in  the  view  is,  however,  the  ocean,  which  here 
almost  always  dashes  against  the  beach  in  huge  and  resounding  billows. 
To  the  S.  is  the  Crut  Alta  (1770  ft.),  the  highest  summit  of  the  Serra 
de  Gintra;  more  to  the  W.  is  the  Cabo  da  Boca. 

We  descend  through  a  luxuriant  bosquet  of  camelias,  rhododen- 
drons, and  araucarias  to  the  above-mentioned  side •  gate,  which 
opens  on  the  road  leading  f^om  S&o  Pedro  to  CoUares  along  the 
Serra.    In  about  10  min.  we  reach  the  ruins  of  the  — 

*CaBtello  d08  HouroB,  a  singular  Moorish  stronghold,  consisting 
of  two  separate  parts,  of  which  that  to  the  S.  is  the  higher.  A  double 
wall,  fteely  restored,  ascends  to  both.  In  spring  everything  is  cov- 
ered with  a  verdant  garb  of  creeping  myrtle.  The  view  is  fine, 
embracing  Cintra,  the  granite-strewn  heights  of  the  Serra,  and  the 
lofty  Pena. 

The  keeper  (80-100  rs.)  points  out  a  Moorish  Cietem  (alleged  to  be 
a  bath)  near  the  upper  gate,  the  water  in  which  never  varies  from  a  depth 
of  4  ft.  3  inches.    Outside  the  gate,  to4he  left,  is  a  small  Moeqve. 

From  the  Moorish  Castle  we  may  either  return  to  Cintra  or  follow 
the  Caminho  de  Collares  to  Monserrate. 

The  *Caminho  de  Collabes,  the  winding  road  leading  along 
the  ridge  to (3 1/2  M.)  Collares,  is  the  favourite  promenade  of  Cintra. 
It  is  flanked  with  fine  evergreens  and  passes  many  attractive  villas. 
Below  lies  the  Vdrzea,  the  fertile  plain  of  the  Collares.  We  soon 
reach  the  Campo  de  Setiaes,  so  named  from  its  sevenfold  echo.  The 
Palacio  de  SetiaeSj  in  the  French  style  of  the  18th  cent.,  with  a 
-^ark  (views),  now  belongs  to  the  Conde  de  Azambuja. 


of  Lisbon,  OINTRA.  66.  RouU,  545 

On  Aug.  SCth,  1808,  Qen:  Dalrymph  here  concluded  with  Q«n.  Junot 
the  inexplicable  ^Convention  of  Gintra%  which  allowed  the  French  army, 
greatly  weakened  by  Wellington's  victories  at  Roliga  (p.  561)  and  Vimeiro 
(p.  561)  and  largely  unfit  for  service,  to  take  shipping  for  France  without 
hindrance.  Dalrymple  was  immediately  removed  from  his  post  by  the 
British  government,  and  Byron  has  devoted  some  scathing  lines  to  the 
event  in  'Ghilde  Harold'  (I,  24-26). 

In  about  10  min.  more  we  reach  tlie  *Penha  Verde,  the  country 
home  of  JoSo  de  Castro  (1500-1548),  the  fourth  Viceroy  of  India  and 
defender  of  Diu,  who  died  here  in  poverty  and  neglect  and  is 
interred  at  Bemflca  (p.  541). 

The  first  Orcmffe  Tree*  brought  from  the  B.  Indies  are  said  to  have 
been  planted  in  the  beautiful  park,  whence  they  spread  over  the  whole 
of  S.  Europe.  The  Italians  still  often  call  them  portogalli.  —  We  ascend 
through  shady  paths,  with  grottoes  and  terraces,  to  the  chapel  of  Santa 
Maria  do  Monte^  situated  on  the  highest  point  of  the  garden.  This  grace- 
ful circular  building,  in  the  Renaissance  style,  is  entered  by  a  door  with 
a  Sanscrit  inscription.  The  inside  walls  are  lined  with  beautiful  tiles. 
Over  the  altar  is  a  marble  relief  of  the  Holy  Family.  The  small  and 
rocky  Monte  das  AMgarat  (with  a  Latin  inscription  by  a  grandson  of  Castro^s) 
was  all  the  modest  hero  sought  as  a  reward  for  his  defence  of  Diu.  ^ 

Farther  on  are  the  Quinta  da  Bella  Vista  and  (2  M.  from  Ointra) 
the  celebrated  **(liii2ita  de  Honserrate  (adm.  200  rs. ;  name  in- 
scribed in  a  book  kept  by  the  gate-keeper).  The  grounds  of  this  villa 
surpass  everything  of  the  kind  in  the  Iberian  Peninsula  in  the 
luxuriance  of  its  vegetation,  for  which  all  the  ends  of  the  earth 
have  been  ransacked.  They  were  originally  laid  out  by  Beckford  of 
Fonthill  and.  now  belong  to  another  Englishman,  known  by  his 
Portuguese  title  of  Visconde  Cook  de  Monserrate.  The  place  is  a 
botanic  garden  in  the  grandest  sense,  a  park  that  unites  the  height 
of  culture  with  the  wildness  of  a  granite  mountain.  The  configura- 
tion of  the  ground  affords  a  charming  variety  of  hill  and  dale,  the 
gem  of  the  whole  being  the  gorge  to  the  S.W.  of  the  'Palace',  with  its 
giant-ferns.  Copious  brooks  make  it  possible  to  keep  the  turf  in 
English-like  perfection,  even  on  slopes  exposed  to  the  full  power 
of  the  sun.  The  park  commands  distant  views  of  the  ocean,  CoUares, 
and  other  places.  —  The  Talacio'  (adm.  200  rs.),  a  fantastic  struc- 
ture in  an  Oriental  style,  contains  a  number  of  curiosities. 

Farther  on  the  road  descends,  vi^  Eugaria  and  Oegaro^  to  Col- 
lares  (128  ft. ;  Eden  Hotet)y  a  village  celebrated  for  its  wine.  Ad- 
jacent is  the  Tanque  da  Vdrzea,  a  small  irrigation-reservoir  (p.  242). 

The  excursion  to  the  Cabo  da  Roca  takes  3-4  hrs.  from  Collates. 
A  bridle-path  leads  to  the  S.W.  across  the  Serra,  the  highest  points 
of  which  here  are  the  Monje  (1600  ft.),  the  Picotos  (1560  ft.),  and 
the  Ad/renunes  (1380  ft.),  to  Azoia  (813  ft.),  which  is  quite  near 
the  cape. 

The  *Cabo  da  Boca  (465  ft.)  or  Focinho  da  Roeay  the  Roman 
Promontorixjon  Magnum  or  Cynthiae  and  the  English  Rock  of  Lisbon^ 
Is  the  W.  spur  of  the  Serra  de  Cintra  and  the  westernmost  point  of 
Continental  Europe.  Most  travellers  content  themselves  vdth  visit-" 
ing  the  more  accessible  Pedra  de  Alvidratj  an  almost  perpendicular 

Baedeker's  Spain  and  PortugaL  35 


546  RauU57,  PALMELLA. 

cliff  to  the  N.  of  tbe  cape,  the  foot  of  which  is  washed  by  the  waves. 
Lads  horn  the  neighbouring  Almocegema  often  climb  up  and  down 
this  crag  in  the  hope  of  a  ^pataco'.  Near  it  is  the  Fojo,  a  cavern 
forming  the  breeding-place  of  innumerable  sea-fowl. 

From  the  Gabo  da  Roca  to  CatcaeSj  see  p.  541. 

The  Praia  da»  Ma^atf  a  fine  beach  2  M.  to  the  W.  of  Collares, 
is  another  favourite  point  for  excursions. 

High  up  in  the  moantaini,  about  3  H.  to  the  S.W.  of  Honserrate,  is 
the  once  famous,  but  now  ruinous  Oonvento  da  Oorti9a,  so  named  from 
the  panels  of  cork  with  which  the  damp  rocky  walls  were  covered.  The 
convent  was  founded  by  Alvaru  d«  Castro  in  15(0  and  was  afterwards  oc- 
cupied by  St.  HonoriuSf  who  died  here  in  1596.  The  most  interesting 
features  are  the  open  refectory  and  the  open  court,  with  the  cells  of  the 
monks  hewn  out  of  the  surrounding  wall  of  rock. 

About  iVs  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Cintra,  on  the  road  to  Cascaei  (p.  541),  is 
the  pretty  QuMa  da  Ramalhao, 

The  Road  to  Havka  leads  from  Cintra,  to  the  K.E.,  to  (5V2  M.)  Pero- 
Finhelro^  with  large  marble  quarries,  where  it  unites  with  the  road  from 
Lisbon.  It  then  descends  to  the  N.  to  CheMro*  (197  ft.},  on  the  brook  of 
that  name,  whence  it  ascends  via  Jgreja  A'cva^  finally  making  a  wide  curve, 
fb  the  barren  plateau  of  (12Va  H.)  Mqfra  (p.  519). 

07.  From  Liflbon  to  Evora  and  Ertremoz. 

104  M.  Bailwat  (two  through-trains  daily)  in  ^^i-V/t  hrs.  (fares  3100, 
3690. 1990  rs.)  \  to  (72>/2  M.)  Eoora  in  4V4-53/4  hrs.  (fares  2410,  1920,  ISiOrs.). 
—  The  trains  start  from  the  Ettagao  do  Barrebro  (p.  514),  on  the  S.  bank 
of  the  Tagus,  to  which  passengers  cross  by  steamer  from  the  Pra^a  do 
Gommercio  in  *j^\iT.  (comp.  p.516).  —  Railway-restaurants  at  Cata  Branca 
and  Eftora. 

Litboriy  see  p.  514.  A  fine  retrospect  of  the  city  is  enjoyed  in 
crossing  the  river.  The  pier  of  the  steamer  at  Barreiro  is  close  to 
the  rail,  station,  and  passengers  and  luggage  are  transferred  from 
the  one  to  the  other  without  difficulty. 

From  Barreiro,  which  also  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  bay  and 
of  Lisbon,  the  train  at  first  runs  towards  the  E.  —  I3/4M.  Lavradio; 
33/4  M.  Alhos  Vedros;  51/2  M.  Moita.  —  10  M.  Pinhal  Novo,  the 
junction  of  a  branch-line  to  Palmella  and  Setubal. 

Fbom  Pinhal  Novo  to  Sktdbal,  8  H.,  railway  (5  trains  daily)  In 
28-27  min.  (fares  250,  200,  140  rs.).  >-  41/3  M.  Palmella,  taken  by  Aflfonso 
Henriques  from  the  Moors  in  1147,  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  Knights 
of  Santiago  in  1186  and  afterwards  became  the  seat  of  the  Dukes  of  Pal- 
mella. Its  massive  but  much  dilapidated  walls  date  from  the  Moorish 
period.  The  top  of  the  castle-hill  commands  a  most  extensive  view, 
reaching  to  the  hills  of  Lisbon  and  the  mountains  of  Cintra  (p.  542)  on 
the  K.W.,  the  Serra  da  Arrablda  on  the  S.W.,  and  the  Bay  of  Setubal 
on  the  8. 

Setubal  iHot,  Setubalente;  British  vice-consul),  31/2  M.  to  the  S.  of  Pal- 
mella, called  St.  Yv€$  by  the  French  and  St.  Ubes  by  the  English,  is  a  town 
of  17,000  inbab.,  situated  on  a  harbour  inferior  to  that  of  Lisbon  alone,  and 
carries  on  a  large  trade  in  salt,  wine,  oranges,  and  pilchards.  It  was  the 
birthplace  of  the  poet  Socage  (1766-1805),  to  whom  a  monument  has  been 
erected  in  one  of  the  pracas.  —  On  the  S.  side  of  the  bay  lies  *  TroicC.  be- 
lieved to  be  the  ruins  of  the  Roman  Cetobr'tga^  which  flourished  90J-40O  A.  D. 
There  is  a  good  account  of  the  remains  in  Omald  Craw/vrd't  *Portogal, 
'>ld  and  New\  —  An  excursion  may  be  made  to  the  convent  of  Arrablda^ 


EVORA.  57.  Route.  547 

near  whieb  is  a  fine  stalactite  cavern  (Portinho  de  Jrrabida)^  t^at  may  be 
entered  by  boat. 

The  train  continues  to  traverse  a  monotonous  district,  with  a 
few  pine-woods.  From  (20  M.)  Poceirdo  a  diligence  runs  to  (5  hrs.) 
Alcaeer  do  Sal,  a  salt-making  place  with  2500  Inhab.  and  some  re- 
mains of  Roman  baths.  —  Beyond  (26  M.)  Pegffes  the  railway  bends 
to  the  S.W.  36  M.  Vendas  Novas.  —  47  M.  Montemor  Novo^  a 
small  town  of  4000  inhab.,  is  picturesquely  situated  on  the  Cauha, 
about  6  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  the  railway  (omn.).  About  6  M.  to  the 
N.E.,  on  the  way  to  ArrayoUiSf  is  a  fine  Dolmen,  descrited.by  Borrow 
(*Bible  in  Spain',  chap^  vii). 

66V2  M.  Casa  Branca  (Rail.  Restaurant)  is  thd  junction  where 
our  line  diverges  to  the  left  (N.E.)  from  the  main  line  to  Beja 
(R.  58).    Carriages  are  changed.  —  69V2  M.  Monte  das  Flores, 

72V2  M.  Evora  (910  ft.;  Hot,  Fabaguiuo;  RaU.  Restaurant),  a 
town  of  16,000  inhab.,  the  capital  of  the  province  of  Alemtejo,  and 
the  &ee  of  an  archbishop,  is  charmingly  situated  in  a  fertile  plain 
surrounded  by  mountains.  The  streets  are  narrow  and  dirty,  but  the 
city  contains  numerous  remains  of  great  historical  and  archsolog- 
ical  interest  It  is  still  surrounded  by  its  old  walls,  now  in  a  very 
ruinous  condition,  and  there  are  some  modern  fortifications. 

Portuguese  chroniclers  place  the  foundation  of  Evora,  the  ancient 
Eboroy  in  the  6th  cent.  B.C.,  but  its  authentic  history  begins  with  its 
capture  by  Quintus  Sertorius  in  B.  G.  80.  It  soon  became  a  prosperous 
Roman  colony  and  was  named  by  Julius  Caesar  liberaHtas  Julia.  It  fell 
into  the  hands  of  the  Moors  in  715,  but  was  recovered  from  them  about 
1150  by  Oiraldo,  sumamed  Sem  Pavor  ('sans  peur"). 

The  *Cathedral  of  Evora  is  an  interesting  early-Gothic  structure, 
built  in  1186-1204  and  restored  at  the  close  of  the  13th  century. 
The  richly  decorated  choir  was  rebuilt  in  1721  by  Ludwig,  the 
architect  of  the  Convent  of  Mafra  (see  p.  660).  The  transept  has 
fine  doorways  and  rose-windows.  —  The  church  of  Sdo  FrancUco, 
dating  from  the  end  of  the  16th  cent.,  is  also  interesting,  and  con- 
tains some  old  paintings  ascribed  to  Gran  Vasoo  (?).  Its  crypt  is 
lined  with  skulls  and  bones.  —  The  Archiepiseopat  Library  contains 
25,000  vols.,  2000  MSS.,  a  collection  of  old  paintings  of  little 
value,  and  a  superb  enamelled  ^Crucifix,  said  to  have  belonged  to 
Francis  I.  of  France. 

The  most  important  of  the  Roman  remains  is  the  *Temple  of 
Diana  (68  ft.  long  and  40  ft.  wide),  with  its  fine  Corinthian  columns. 
Its  platform  is  partly  supported  by  a  Roman  wall,  and  a  little  to 
the  W.  is  a  Roman  archway.  The  so-called  *Aqueduct  of  SertoriuSj 
2  M.  in  length,  was  substantially  rebuilt  in  the  16th  century. 

Beyond  Evora  the  railway  leads  to  the  N.  and  afterwards  to  the 
N.E.  through  a  hilly  upland  plateau,  the  watershed  between  the 
Guadiana  and  the  Tagus.  Several  viaducts  are  crossed,  and  several 
unimportant  stations  are  passed. 

104M:  B»treiiioa(1510ft.;  Inns,  indifferent),  a  town  of  7500 
inhab.,  at  the  base  of  a  hill  crowned  by  a  once  formidable  p-ast' 

36  • 


548  Boute68.  BEJA. 

Ettittmol  ii  funoQB  for  its  porous  red  earthenware  Jars,  used  through- 
out Iberia  as  water-coolers. 

Ifear  Estremos  are  Ameixal  and  MonUi  Claroty  where  the  Forti&giiese 
defeated  the  Spaniards  in  1688  and  1866,  aided  in  the  first  instonce  by  a 
body  of  British  troops.  —  About  11  M.  to  the  8.B.  lies  Villa  Vifoaa,  a 
town  of  SfiOO  inhab.,  with  a  palace  of  the  Dakes  of  Braganza,  containing 
a  number  of  family-portraits.  Xear  the  town  is  the  CouladUy  or  Dueal  Forest^ 
surrounded  by  a  wall  16  M.  in  circumference.  Villa  Vi(osa  gare  its  name 
to  a  militory  order,  esUblished  in  1818.  About  17  M.  farther  on  is  Oltven^a, 
a  town  with  SOOOinhab.  in  the  Spanish  province  ofBadaJoi. 

Estremos  is  about  28  M.  from  Elvas  (p.  60B^  railway  under  construc- 
tion) and  17  H.  from  the  nearest  point  of  the  Spanish  frontier. 

08.  From  Lisbon  to  Beja  and  Faro. 

211  M.  Railway  (one  through-train  daily)  in  lH/t  hrs.  (fares  6640, 
6210,  3Td0rt.)i  to  (95Vs  M.)  BeJa  (twice  daily)  in  6V4-BV4  hrs.  (fares  3110, 
3460,  1770  rs.).  There  is  also  a  local  train  from  Lisbon  to  Be^a.  —  Rail- 
way-restaurants at  Cata  Blanca  and  Btja. 

From  LiOxm  (Barreiro)  to  (667s  M.)  Cata  Branca,  see  R.  57. 
Beyond  this  point  our  line  continues  to  run  towards  the  S.E.  and 
soon  crosses  the  Ale&eowu.  64  M.  Alc&eovas;  the  small  and  ancient 
town  lies  about  3  M.  to  the  S. W.  — •  68  M.  Vienna;  72V2  M.  Villa 
Novoi  77i/2  M.  Alvito^  with  some  Roman  (?)  remains ;  86  M.  Cuba. 

96 V2  M.  Beja  (925  ft..;  Hot,  Vista  AUgrc),  the  Roman  Pax  Julia 
or  Paea,  is  the  see  of  a  bishop  and  is  well  situated  on  a  hill.  Pop. 
8400.  Its  WaUi,  still  preserved  on  the  N.  side,  are  believed  to  be 
partly  of  Roman  origin.  On  the  S.  side  is  a  Roman  Gateway.  The 
Castle,  built  by  King  Diniz  (ca.  13001  is  one  of  the  most  character- 
istic mediaval  edifices  in  Portugal  ^ne  view  from  the  top).  The 
Cathedral  has  been  thoroughly  modernized,  but  the  church  of 
Nuestra  Senhora  de  CofK^ifdo  is  more  interesting. 

From  Bbja  to  Pias,  26  H.,  railway  in  li/s  hr.  (fares  800,  620, 400  rs.). 
—  The  only  intermediate  station  of  any  note  is  (18  M.)  Berpa  (Hotel,  poor), 
a  town  of  5600  inhab.,  situated  about  1  H.  to  the  £.  of  the  Ouadiana  and 
2  M.  to  the  8.  of  the  railway.  It  was  known  to  the  Romans  and  was 
once  of  greater  importance  than  now.  —  26  M.  Pitu  is  a  small  place  about 
10  M.  from  the  Spanish  frontier  (railway  to  Tarsi$  and  ffuelva  projected). 

Beyond  Beja  the  main  line  runs  towards  the  S.W.  106  M. 
Outeiro;  110  M.  Figueirinha ;  119  M.  Carregueiro ;  12472  M.  Case- 
vel  To  the  S.E.  of  (I28V2  M.)  Ourique  lies  the  Campo  de  Ourique, 
where  Affonso  Henriques  defeated  the  Moors  in  1139.  133  M. 
Panoias;  136V2  ^>  Garoaio.  Farther  on  the  railway  crosses  the 
Serra  Calderdo  by  means  of  a  long  tunnel  and  then  descends  to- 
wards the  coast-district.  140  M.  8an  Martinho  das  Amoreiras; 
161  M.  Odemira,  a  small  town  on  the  river  Mira,  with  300  in- 
habitants. The  train  here  turns  to  the  S.E.  and  crosses  the  Mira.  — 
168  M.  Savoia  Monehique  (inn),  a  town  of  5000  inhab.,  pictur- 
esquely situated  at  the  N.  foot  of  the  Serra  de  Monehique  (2960  ft.). 
Various  ascents  and  excursions  may  be  made  from  this  point.  The 
^Hhs  of  Monehique  (1490  ft),  about  13  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  station, 
he  heart  of  the  mountains,  have  long  been  famous  for  curing 


MAFRA.  5.9.  Route,    549 

cutaiieoas  diseases.  —  The  line  now  ascends  through  a  hilly  and 
picturesque  country,  crossing  several  viaducts,  to  the  PorteUa  dos 
Termos,  between  the  Serra  de  Monchique  on  the  right  and  the  Serra 
da  Me%quUa  on  the  left,  and  again  descends  to  (171  M.)  San  Marcos 
de  Serra,  It  then  crosses  the  Odelouca  and,  beyond  a  long  tunnel, 
the  Silves.  Beyond  (180  M.)  SSo  Bartholomeu  de  Messines  we 
descend  rapidly  to  the  coast-plain,  crossing  the  Algo%.  190  M. 
Albuferia ;  the  little  town  lies  on  the  coast,  considerably  to  the  S. 
of  the  'railway.  —  196  M.  Boliqueime.  —  201 M.  LonW  (Inns),  a 
prosperous  town  with  18,872  inhab.,  who  are  actively  engaged  in 
the  making  of  baskets.  It  still  retains  its  Moorish  walls  and  gate- 
ways and  the  ruins  of  a  Moorish  castle. 

211  M.  Faro  (^Central  Hotel ;  British  and  U,  S.  vice-consuls),  the 
capital  of  a  district  of  the  same  name  and  the  see  of  a  bishop,  is  a 
small  seaport  with  9000  inhab,,  situated  near  the  mouth  of  the  small 
Rio  Fermoso,  It  was  taken  from  the  Moors  by  Alfonso  III.*  in  1260 
and  was  destroyed  by  the  English  in  1596.  The  chief  exports  are  fruit, 
wine,  cork,  sumach,  baskets,  and  anchovies.  The  harbour,  which  is 
protected  by  sandy  islets,  is  spacious  but  shallow.  Faro  possesses  a 
handsome  Cathedral^  some  other  churches  and  convents,  and  a  Mili- 
tary Hospital.  The  old  Cast^is  surrounded  with  Moorish  fortifications. 

59,  From  Lisbon  to  Alfarellos  (Coimhra)  Yi&  Mafra, 
Vallado,  and  Leiria. 

140  M.  Railway  (one  througb-frain  daily)  in  81/4  hrs.  (fares  4720,  3680, 
2630  rs.)i  to  iiafra  (23  M.)  in  VI2  hr  (fares  740,  580,  420  rs.);  to  Vallado 
(84  M.)  in  5  hrs.  (fares  2690,  2100,  1500  rs  ).  There  is  a  local  train  from 
Lisbon  to  Amieiray  and  also  one  from  Amieira  to  Alfarelloi.  Trains  start 
from  the  Central  Station  (p.  514),  and  through  carriages  also  from  Aleantara- 
Mar  (p.  54^).  —  No  railway-restaurant  en  route.  —  Passengers  from  the  N., 
who  wish  to  visit  Cintra  (p.  542),  change  trains  at  Cacem.  From  Mafra 
Station  a  diligence  (200  rs.)  plies  to  (6  M.)  ilaSra;  from  Vallado  (p.  552)  an 
omnibus  (100  rs.)  runs  to  (3V2  H.)  Aleoba^a  (p.  563). 

From  Lisbon  to  (13  M.)  Cacem,  see  pp.  541, 542.  —  Our  line 
here  turns  to  the  N.  To  the  left  we  have  picturesque  glimpses  of  the 
Castello  da  Pena  (p.  544).  — 18 M.  Sahugo,  on  the  highroad  from  Lis- 
bon to  Mafra.  —  We  traverse  a  monotonous  plain  and  ascend  along 
the  FareUo  to  (23  M.^  Mafra,  the  station  for  the  little  town  of  that 
name,  which  lies  6  M.  to  the  N.W.  (diligence,  see  above). 

Hafira  (777  ft. ;  Hot.  Moreira,  pens.  1000-1500  rs.,  fair)  is  cel- 
ebrated for  its  CoKVBNT,  which  is  due  to  the  monastic  proclivities  of 
John  V.  This  monarch  had  vowed,  in  the  case  of  the  birth  of  an 
heir  to  the  throne,  to  erect  a  magnificent  new  structure  ^on  the  site 
of  the  poorest  convent  in  Portugal'.  His  son  (afterwards  Joseph  I.) 
was  bom  in  1715,  and  two  years  later  the  grateful  father  laid  the 
foundation-stone  of  the  new  monastery  t.    Until  the  completion  of 

t  The  exact  date  (Nov.  17th,  1717)  is  said   to  have  been  selected 
account  of  the  triple  occurrence  of  the  number  17* 


550   Route  59.  MAFRA.  From  Lisbon 

the  work  in  1730  a  daily  average  of  14,700  labourers  were  employed, 
and  the  number  is  said  to  hayo  risen  at  times  to  45,000.  The  architects 
were  Johatm  F^riedrich  Ludwig  of  Ratisbon,  reported  to  have  originally 
been  a  goldsmith,  and  his  son  Johatm  Peter.  The  cost,  said  to  have 
amounted  to  54  million  cruzados  (over  4,000,000  i.),  went  far  to 
bring  about  the  financial  ruin  of  the  country. 

The  Convent  of  Mafra,  the  ^Escorial  of  Portugal*,  consists,  like 
the  latter,  of  a  church,  a  monastery,  and  a  palace.  In  addition  there 
were  barracks,  now  used  as  a  cadet  academy.  The  enormous  four- 
storied  building  lies  to  the  £.  of  the  town,  forming  a  rectangle 
820  ft.  long  and  720  ft.  wide.  Huge  pavilions  project  from  the 
corners  of  the  W.  facade.  The  centre  is  occupied  by  the  Ckurehj 
with  a  large  dome  over  the  crossing  and  two  towers  (224  ft.  high) 
flanking  the  facade.  To  the  S.  is  the  Rediencia  da  £atnfta,  to  the 
N.  the  Residencia  do  Bei;  to  the  £.,  behind  the  choir,  lies  the  Con- 
vent, with  its  300  cells. 

The  building  is  said  to  contain  9  courts,  5200  doors,  and  2500 
windows.  A  walk  of  even  several  hours  amid  its  chambers  hardly 
suffices  to  give  a  realising  sense  of  its  enormous  dimensions,  which, 
along  with  the  lavish  expenditure  on  rare  varieties  of  wood  and 
marble,  afford  the  only  set  off  against  its  entire  lack  of  artistic  taste. 
As  the  Escorial  materializes  the  mind  of  Philip  II.,  so  Mafra  reflects 
the  jejune  and  feeble  character  of  Portugal  in  the  18th  century. 
*Mafra  is  a  rich  monument',  writes  Alex.  Herculano,  *but  devoid 
of  poetry  and  therefore  of  true  greatness ;  it  is  the  monument  of  a 
great  but  tottering  nation,  which  is  about  to  die  after  a  final  ban- 
quet 3i  la  Lucullus'. 

The  melodious  chimes  in  the  towers,  each  comprising  57  bells, 
are  by  Levaehe  of  Antwerp  and  are  said  to  have  alone  cost  4  million 
cruzados.  —  The  facade  of  the  church  is  adorned  with  58  marble 
statues,  most  of  them  by  the  Italian  GiusU,  —  The  chief  objects  of 
interest  in  the  interior  of  the  church  are  the  high-altar-piece  re- 
presenting the  Virgin  and  St.  Antony,  the  statue  of  St.  Jerome  by 
Felipe  Valles^  and  the  richly  gilt  organs. 

The  Palace  (fee  of  200-300  rs.  to  the  'almoxarife')  is  adorned 
with  scenes  from  the  history  of  Portugal  and  the  discoveries  of  the 
Portuguese.  —  The  Library  contains  30,000  volumes. 

The  Tapada  de  Mafra^  to  the  N.E.  of  the  palace,  is  a  model  farm, 
with  an  interesting  royal  stud. 

Highroads  lead  from  Mafra  to  the  S.W.  to  (I21/2  M.)  dnirm  (p.  542)^ 
to  theN.W.  to  (6  M.) -^n'ceJra,  a  fishing- village  with  excellent  sea-bathing ^ 
and  to  the  TS.  to  Torret  Vedrtu  (p.  651). 

The  Railway  ascends  rapidly  to  the  N.E.,  along  the  Farello,  to 
(26  M.)  Malveira,  To  the  right  we  have  a  view  of  the  smiling 
"lateau  of  the  inland  part  of  Estremadura.  We  then  descend  through 

nnel  to  (32  M.)  Pero  Negro  and  along  the  Sizandro,  Numerous 
^ards.   —  36  M.  Dois  PoHoa;  391/2  M.  Rum,   On  a  hUl  to  the 


to  Alfarelfos.  ORIDOS.  59.  Route.   551 

right  is  the  village  of  Ordasqtteira,  with  several  windmills.  We 
thread  three  short  tnnnels  and  pass  (right)  an  old  aqneduot. 

421/2  M.  Torres  Vedras  (216  ft. ;  Hot.  dos  Cuoos,  pens,  1000- 
1400  rs.}  Hot,  Natividade\  with  6100  inhab.,  situated  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Sizandro,  has  an  old  Moorish  castle  (fine  view)  and 
some  warm  springs  (112^  Fahr.).  The  name  (Tuires  Veierw,  old 
towers)  is  mediaeval,  but  many  inscriptions  have  been  found  pointing 
to  a  Roman  origin.  The  town  often  played  a  part  of  some  importance 
in  the  earlier  history  of  the  country,  and  the  Cortes  met  here  in  1441. 

The  celebrated  Linbs  of  Torbbs  Vbdras,  constructed  by  Wel- 
lington in  1810  to  protect  Lisbon  against  the  French,  extend  from 
the  sea  to  Alhandra  (p.  513),  a  distance  of  about  25  M.  There  were 
two  lines,  at  varying  distances  apart  and  comprising  about  150  forts 
and  batteries. 

'The  lines  of  Torres  Vedras,  which  the  powerful  French  army  nnddr 
Massena  was  unable  to  pass,  and  from  which  the  wave  of  war  was  rolled 
back  broken  into  Spain,  were  perhaps  the  most  remarkable  works  of  the 
kind  ever  constructed'  (Col.  Nugent). 

The  train  now  leaves  the  valley  of  the  Sizandro  and  ascends  to 
the  N.,  through  woods  of  flr  and  pine,  to  (471/2  M.)  Ramalhaly  about 
6  M.  to  the  W.  of  which  lies  Vimeiro,  where  Wellington  defeated 
the  French  on  Aug.  21  st,  1808.  Farther  on  we  traverse  a  lonely 
moor.  To  the  right  is  the  Montejvnto  (2185  ft.).  Beyond  (52  M.) 
Outeiro  we  again  enter  a  well- til  led  region,  with  vineyards  and  olive 
groves,  bl^l^^.  BombarraL  The Bi6«rai2cans crossed.  61 1/2 M./SfflJo 
Mamede  is  also  the  station  for  JSoZipa,  the  scene  of  the  first  battle 
between  the  French  and  English  in  the  Peninsular  War  (Aug.  17th, 
1808),  when  Wellington  defeated  Laborde. 

6472  ^-  ObidoSi  an  old  town  with  3300  inhab.,  situated  on  a 
height  to  the  right,  above  the  Rio  da  Vargem,  was  taken  from  the 
Moors  in  1148.  It  has  a  castle  of  King  Diniz,  an  aqueduct,  and 
walls  with  battlements  and  towers.  The  hexagonal  church  of  Noi9e 
Senhor  da  Pedra,  in  the  valley  V2  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  town,  was 
begun  by  John  V.  but  left  unfinished. 

From  Obidos  roads  lead  to  the  N.W.  to  the  Logo  d^ObidoSy  a  deeply- 
cut  ria,  and  to  the  W.  to  Fenicfae  ('peninsula^),  situated  on  a  rocky 
peninsula,  connected  with  the  mainland  by  a  sandy  spit.  —  Adjacent  is 
the  rocky  headland  of  Carvoeiro  or  Peniche,  surmounted  by  a  lighthouse 
115  ft.  high  and  affording  a  good  view  of  the  Islas  Berlengets^  ris'tng  from  the 
sea  like  teeth.  The  principal  island  is  divided  into  two  parts  by  a  cleft 
in  the  rocks.  On  its  highest  point  is  a  Hghthoupe  (fainlhao)  visible  24  M. 
out  at  sea. 

The  train  crosses  the  Rio  da  Vargem.  To  the  right  is  the  church 
of  Nosse  Senhor  da  Pedra  (see  above).   We  traverse  pine-woods. 

68  M.  OaldaB  da  Bainha  (Hot.  Lishonense,  pens,  from  1000  rs.; 
Hot.  AlliatKa,  pens.  1000-1500  rs.;  Hot.Caldmse),  a  town  of  2700 
inhab.,  with  celebrated  sulphur-baths  (120** Fahr.),  founded  by  Queen 
Leonora  (p.  530)  in  1485.  The  Hospital^  restored  by  John  V.  in 
1747,  accommodates  400  poor  inmates.  Its  bell-tower,  standing 
near  the  church,  is  in  the  Emmanuel  style  (p.  636).    The  Fas^eio  d 


552   Route  59.  LEIRIA. 

Copa,  to  the  S.  of  the  town,  Ib  a  shady  avenue  of  planes  and  elms. 
The  Fabriea  de  FaiarKos  is  the  chief  majolica  factory  in  Portngal. 

From  CaldM  da  Bainha  to  AUmquer  and  Carrtffodo,  see  p.  513. 

72V2  M.  Bovro^  with  pine-woods.  Along  the  sea  runs  a  chain 
of  lofty  dunes.  To  the  left  is  a  narrow  bay  ( Concha) ^  forming  the 
only  harbour  on  this  part  of  the  coast.  75  M.  SSo  Martmho  do  PoHo, 
picturesquely  situated  on  the  aloe-grown  slopes  of  a  sand-hill,  on 
the  N.E.  margin  of  the  bay.  In  spring  the  railway  embankment  is 
«oyered  with  the  blossoms  of  several  varieties  of  stone-crop  (sedum). 

84  M.  YalladOf  on  the  Aleoa^  is  the  starting-point  for  the  ex- 
cursion to  Alcoba^a  and  BaUUhd  (JR.  60). 

A  diligence  (200  rs.)  mns  to  the  W.,  down  the  valley  of  the  Alcoa, 
to  (3Vs  M.)  HoMa  Senhora  de  Hazareth  (Grand  H6UI  Club)^  a  small. sea- 
bathing place  and  pilgrimage-resort.  The  Ermiday  containing  a  miracle- 
working  image  of  the  Virgin,  was  erected  in  1182  by  Fwu  Rottpinho,  whom 
Oar  Lady  had  saved  from  a  fatal  fall  while  stag-hunting. 

92V2  ^*  MartinganQa.  —  96  M.  Marinha  Orcmde,  a  glass-foundry 
amid  the  pine-woods  of  the  Pinhal  Real  (see  below). 

103  M.  Leiria.  —  The  Bailway  Btation  lies  on  the  river,  about  2  M. 
below  the  town  (omn.  100  rs.)* 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  502).  Hot.  Liz,  at  the  Fonde  Grande  iHot.  Centkai., 
near  the  Praya  de  Bodrigues  Lobo,  both  fair,  pens.  1000  rs.  —  Ca/i 
Oriental^  Pra^a  de  Rodrignes  Lobo. 

Leirfay  a  district- capital  with  3600  inbab.,  is  finely  situated  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  small  river  Lfc,  which  here  receives  the  waters 
of  the  Lena  (p.  666).  The  town  is  dominated  by  a  steep  hill  with 
the  ruined  castle  of  King  Diniz  and  by  other  picturesque  heights 
with  churches  and  convents. 

This  once  important  town,  wrested  from  the  Moors  by  Affonso  Hen- 
riques  In  1135,  wa«  the  residence  of  King  Diniz  or  Dew*  (1279-1825),  *que 
fis  tanto  quiz'  (Vho  did  what  he  willed').  One  of  his  acts  was  to  plant 
the  Pifihal  Real  with  sea-pines  (pinus  maritima)  from  the  Landes  of  8. 
France  in  order  to  protect  the  country  from  the  flying  sea-sand.  Leirfa 
afterwards  lost  its  importance  to  Coimbra,  but  it  was  made  the'  see  of 
a  bishop  in  1545.  The  first  printing-press  in  Portugal  was  set  up  here  in 
1466.  The  banishment  of  the  Jews  iigured  it  deeply.  Leiria  was  the 
birthplace  of  the  poet  Francisco  Rodriguez  Lobo  (b.  ca.  1600),  whose  chief 
work,  0  Condettahle  do  Portugaly  celebrates  the  hero  of  the  battle  of  Alju- 
barrota  (p.  565). 

From  the  Pra^a  de  Rodrigues  Lobo,  in  the  centre  of  the  town, 
we  follow  the  Rua  de  Santa  Isabel  towards  the  N.  and  then  take  the 
first  side-street  to  the  right.  This  brings  us  to  the  S^  (Santa  Maria)^ 
an  unpretending  Renaissance  edifice  of  1571,  modernized  in  the 
18th  century. 

We  then  ascend  through  the  Gal^ada  do  Pa^ 0  and  cross  the  Largo 
de  Boa  Vista  to  the  Agenda  do  Banco  do  Portugal.  The  passage  to 
the  right  of  the  bell-tower  leads  hence  to  the  (10  min.)  *Ca8tello  dt 
Leiria,  The  S.  portal  and  the  choir  of  the  early-Gothic  church  are 
well  preserved ;  and  the  other  ruins  are  also  interesting.  Tbe  castle 
affords  a  splendid  view  of  the  town  and  mountains  to  the  E.  and  of 
the  Pinhal  Real  to  the  W. 


ALCOBA^A.  60,  Route,   553 

From  the  S.E.  side  of  the  Pra^a  de  RodrigueB  Lobo  a  few  steps  bring 
us  to  the  Campo  de  Dom  Luiz  PrimeirOj  with  its  theatre  and  charm- 
ing pleasare-gronnds.  The  Fonte  Qrande^  to  the  E.  of  this  pra^,  is 
mnch  frequented  by  women  bearing  water-jars  of  antique  form.  An 
attractive  promenade  descends  along  the  Liz  to  the  (10  min.)  Rodo^ 
with  the  warm  F(mte  Quente, 

From  the  Olho*  de  SSo  Pedro,  at  the  foot  of  the  Monte  de  8ao  Miguel^ 
a  warm  and  &  cold  spring  issue  side  by  side.  —  A  *Route  de  Calvaire'' 
leads  to  the  pilgrimage-church  of  8<mto  Jfftutin,  dating  from  1606. 

Good  Roads  lead  from  Leiria  to  the  N  E.  to  Powihal  (p.  663)  j  to  the 
S.E.  to  Ourem  (wilh  an  old  castle),  CMo  de  JiofO*  (p.  563),  and  Thomar 
(p.  661)-,  and  to  the  S.W.  to  Batalha  and  Alcobaga  (VaUado;  R.  60). 

The  Railway  crosses  the  Liz  and  descends  to  the  N.W.  along 
its  right  bank,  partly  through  pine-woods,  to  (110  M.)  Monte  Real. 
Several  small  stations.  Beyond  (126  M.)  Telhada  we  approach  the 
marshy  plain  of  the  Mondego  (p.  566)  and  cross  an  embankment  to  — 

130  M.  Amieira,  a  small  place  with  mineral  baths,  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  slope  to  the  right,  amid  groves  of  pine  and  olive.  It 
is  the  junction  of  a  branch-railway  to  (7  M.)  the  seaport  of  Figuehra 
da  Foz  (British  vice-consul). 

From  Amieira  our  line  ascends  to  the  N.E.,  vi&  (134  M.)  Venide^ 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Mondego,  to  (140  M.)  AlfareUos  (p.  664). 

60.  From  Vallado  to  Leiria  vi&  Alcobafa  and  Batalha. 

20  M.  Road.  An  Omnibus  runs  from  Vallado  to  (4  H.)  Alcoba$a  in 
connection  with  the  trains.  A  Diligence  plies  daily  from  Alcobaca  to  (8  H.) 
Batalha  (600  rs.)  and  (16  M.)  Leiria  (1000  rs.).  Carriage  from  Alcobaca  to 
Batalha  2000  rs.,  to  Leiria  (allowing  half-a-day  at  Batalha)  30004000  rs. 
(bargaining  necessary). 

The  road  from  Alcobaca  to  Leiria,  forming  part  of  the  old  highway 
between  Lisbon  and  Coimbra,  is  rich  in  historical  reminiscenees.  The 
convents  of  Alcobaca  and  Batalha  rank  with  those  of  Belem  and  Thomar 
as  the  most  important  architectural  monuments  of  PortugaFs  age  of  glory, 
and  should  not  be  overlooked  by  any  lover  of  art. 

Vallado^  see  p.  552.  —  A  shady  road  ascends  to  the  E.  through 
the  valley  of  the  Alcoa,  passing  a  Fabrica  de  Faiancas  e  Tejidos. 

4  M.  Alcobaca  (*Hot,  Alcobacense  or  Oalinha^  to  the  S.  of  the 
convent,  pens.  1200  rs.,  unpretending;  H6t,  Central^  opposite  the 
barracks)  is  charmingly  situated  between  the  Alcoa  and  Ba^a  and 
is  commanded  on  the  W.  by  a  range  of  hills,  bearing  the  scanty  re- 
mains of  a  Moorish  castle. 

The  celebrated  ^Cisterciaii  Abbey  of  Alcoba9a  (Mosldro  de  Santa 
Maria) J  one  of  the  richest  and  largest  convents  in  the  world,  was 
founded  by  Affonso  Henriques  after  the  capture  of  Santarem  (p.  612) 
and  built  in  1148-1222.  The  abbot  was  numbered  among  the  highest 
dignitaries  of  the  land.  Mass  was  celebrated,  it  is  said,  day  and  night 
without  intermission  by  900  monks.  Abbot  Jo&o  Dornellas  sent  no 
fewer  than  eleven  troops  of  his  vassals  to  the  battle  of  Aljubarrota 
(p.  655).  The  French  sacked  the  convent  in  1810,  and  in  1834  it 
was  secularized. 


554    Uoute  60.  ALCOBA^A.  From  Vallado 

The  buililiuAS,  forming  a  square  wi(h7t^  ft.  of  front,  comprized 
five  cloisters,  seven  dormitories,  a  hospedaria,  and  a  library  with 
26,000  volumes.  Through  the  gigantic  kitchen  flows  a  rivulet  from 
the  Alcoa;  its  high  conical  chimney,  supported  by  eight  iron 
columns,  resembles  those  of  Gintra  (p.  543).  The  N.  part  of  the 
building,  erected  under  the  Cardinal- Abbot  Affonso,  son  of  Em- 
manuel the  Fortuuate,  is  now  used  as  cavalry-barracks. 

The  imposing  *  Church  (sacristan,  Avenida  de  SSo  Juan  de 
Dios,  300 yds.  to  the  S.W.  of  the  entrance;  fee  150-200 rs.),  an 
early-Gothic  edifice  348  ft.  long,  42  ft  wide,  and  68  ft.  high,  re- 
sembles the  Cistercian  buildings  of  France.  The  baroque  facade  dates 
from  the  time  of  Card.  Henry,  the  26th  and  last  of  the  abbots ;  the 
Gothic  portal  is  earlier. 

The  Intbbiob,  with  its  unusually  narrow  aisles,  makes  a  severe, 
almost  gloomy  impression.  The  24  unadorned  piers  stand  so  close 
to  one  another  as  to  appear  like  a  wall  to  one  entering  the  church. 
The  transept  has  a  kind  of  aisle  on  the  side  next  the  nave.  The 
choir,  with  its  fine  windows,  is  surrounded  by  an  ambulatory  with 
radiating  chapels. 

The  place  of  the  fourth  chapel  of  the  ambulatory  (S.  side)  is 
taken  by  a  passage  with  beautiful  reticulated  vaulting  and  rich  door 
frames  in  the  'Emmanuel'  style  (p.  536).  The  door  to  the  left  in  this 
passage  leads  to  the  8<icristyy  restored  by  Jo&o  de  CcutUho  (p.  536) 
in  the  reign  of  Emmanuel  (ca.  1619)  and  modernized  in  the  17-I8th 
centuries.  Adjacent  is  a  small  dome-covered  room,  containing  nu- 
merous half- figures  of  saints  fitted  up  as  reliquaries.  The  door  on 
-the  right  side  of  the  passage  opens  on  a  chapel.  The  passage  itself 
debouches  on  a  graveyard,  formerly  the  cloister-garth,  and  on  the 
isolated  Capella  de  Nossa  Senhora  do  Desterro  ('desert'),  of  the  18th 
cent.,  with  a  richly  gilt  retabulo  and  majolica  pictures. 

The  second  chapel  to  the  left  in  the  S.  transept  contains  a  rich 
but  much  dilapidated  terracotta  group  of  the  17th  cent.,  representing 
the  death  of  St.  Bernard.  Above  is  a  relief  of  the  Virgin,  with  angels 
playing  on  musical  instruments.  To  the  right  and  left  are  the  tombs 
of  Affonso  II.  (1211-23)  and  Affonso  III.  (1245-79).  —  Opposite, 
to  the  right,  is  the  — 

♦  Capella  dos  TumuloSj  a  Gothic  structure  of  greenish  sandstone, 
dating  from  the  second  half  of  the  14th  century.  In  the  middle 
stand  the  tombs  of  Peter  I.  (1357-67)  and  Inez  de  Castro  (see  p.  571), 
with  recumbent  effigies  of  the  deceased.  These  are  placed  feet  to 
feet,  at  the  command,  as  is  alleged,  of  the  king,  who  desired  that  the 
first  object  seen  on  his  resurrection  should  be  his  beloved  wife.  The 
sarcophagus  of  the  king  is  surrounded  by  six  lions,  that  of  Inez  by 
six  creatures  resembling  sphinxes.  Vrraca  and  Beatrice  (Brites)^ 
the  wives  of  Affonso  II.  and  Affonso  III.,  are  also  buried  here.  The 
mutilations  of  the  tombs  are  due  to  French  soldiers. 

From  the  N.  aisle  we  enter  the  Sala  dob  Rbis,  a  large  Gothic 


PI  a  Ilia  ^eral    do   inosteiro  da  Ratalha 

■?         y        y       y         ^S^^JP       JP  M  e  I  r  o  8 


pXnirjnLzdL4"4r4'4-LH- 


Poiia, 
do 


-■4 

,4..^.>..4..4..4...4...^  ..  •— it<r 


Geogr.Ansl.von' 


to  Leina.  BATALHA.  60.  Route.   555 

room,  with  four  pieis,  conUinuig  a  terracotta  group  of  the  Coronation 
of  Affonso  Henriques  and  statues  of  nineteen  kings,  from  Alfonso  to 
Joseph  I.  The  original  charter  of  the  convent  is  also  kept  here.  The 
bronze  hrazier  (caldeir&o)  was  taken  by  the  Portuguese  at  Aljubarrota 
(see  below). 

The  fine  *Cloistebs  (Claustro  de  Bom  Diniz)  to  the  N.  of  the 
church  (entr.  from  the  Sala  dos  Reis  or  from  the  N.  aisle)  deserve 
special  attention.  The  lower  stage,  in  the  early-Gothic  style,  dates 
from  the  days  of  King  Diniz  (p.  552) ;  the  upper  was  restored  in  the 
early  Renaissance  style  by  JoOo  de  CastUho  at  the  instance  of  King 
£mmanue].  The  Gothic  well-house  on  the  N.  side  is  very  picturesque. 

Senhor  Vieira  da  Natividade^  an  apothecary  in  Alcoba^a,  has  &  small 
collection  of  prehistoric  antiquities  from  the  caves  of  Aljnbarrota. 


From  Alcobaca  to  Batalha  (8  M.),  a  drive  of  2-2V4  hrs.  We 
skirt  the  N.  side  of  the  convent  and  cross  the  Ba^a,  At  the  fork  we 
ascend  to  the  left  through  a  fertile  district.  To  the  E.  rise  the  lime- 
stone summits  of  the  Serra  d^Albardos.  At  the  top  of  the  hill  we 
enjoy  a  good  retrospect  of  Alcobaca.  To  the  W.  are  the  ocean  and 
Nazareth  (p.  552),  adjoined  by  the  Monte  de  Sao  Bartholomeu;  the 
extensive  white  patches  are  sand-dunes. 

Halfway  to  Batalha,  beyond  the  insignificant  village  of  Alfuhar- 
rota,  we  traverse  the  Battle  Field  of  Aug.  Idth,  1385^  where  the 
newly  elected  King  John  of  Portugal  defeated  the  army  of  his  brother- 
in-law  John  I.  of  Castile,  husband  of  the  daughter  of  the  last  Portu- 
guese monarch  of  the  legitimate  Burgundian  line  (p.  504). 

The  Portuguese  were  led  by  the  Conde$iahle  Nunc  Alvare*  Pereira  and 
met  the  enemy  at  Canoeira  (see  below).  The  cannons  of  the  Spaniards 
threw  them  at  first  into  some  confusion,  but  they  soon  recovered  from 
their  dread  of  the  new-fangled  weapon.  They  pressed  upon  the  Spanish 
centre  at  Cruz  da  L4goa  (see  below),  and  dealt  the  decisive  blow  at  Alju- 
barrota. A  full  description  of  the  battle  is  given  by  Camoens  in  the  fourth 
canto  of  ^Os  Lusiades".  According  to  a  local  legend,  Britet  d" Almeida^  wife 
of  the  baker  of  Aljubarrota,  distinguished  herself  in  the  pursuit  by  killing 
seven  Castilian  soldiers  with  her  pa  or  *oven-peer  (a  long:  wooden  shovel). 
This  gave  rise  to  the  saying  ^endiaHfrado  como  a  padeira  d'AlJt^arrota'  C»a 
full  of  the  devil  as  the  baker's  wife  of  Aljubarrota');  and  the  community 
proudly  bears  a  pd  in  its  coat-of-arms.  The  house  of  Brites,  to  the  W.  of 
the  pra^a,  bears  an  inscription  in  Latin  verses.  Portugal  itself  won  in 
this  battle  the  right  to  the  description  of  being  ^sempre  per$egttido  mait 
nunca  vencido'  ('always  pursued  but  never  subdued''). 

To  the  W.,  as  we  proceed,  lie  large  tracts  of  sand.  Beyond  Casal 
da  Cruz  da  Ugoa  the  scenery  becomes  more  and  more  desolate,  and 
only  a  few  miserable  huts  are  passed  amid  the  interminable  pine 
woods.  Finally  we  begin  to  descend  and  come  suddenly  into  sight  of 
Batalha,  which  we  enter  across  a  stone  bridge. 

The  small  town  of  Batalha  {'Hotel\  to  the  S.  of  the  oonvent 
church,  very  primitive),  with  3600inhab.,  lies  in  the  fruitful  valley 
of  the  jDena,  surrounded  by  hills  clad  with  pines  or  olives,  and  oc- 
cupies the  site  of  Canoeira^  the  village  where  the  great  battle  that 
secured  the  independence  of  Portugal  began  (see  above).  Gratitude 
for  the  victory  induced  John  I.  to  establish  the  famous  — 


556   Route  60.  BATALHA.  From  Vallado 

^KMtoiro  de  Santa  Kaiia  daTictoria,  generally  known  as 
BataUia.  The  imposing  buildings  of  the  monastery  occupy  the  whole 
of  the  N.  part  of  the  town.  The  date  of  its  building  is  generally  reck- 
oned from  1388,  when  the  king  gave  the  Dominicans  the  deed  of 
gift  in  the  camp  before  Melga^o.  The  original  plan  was  probably 
limited  to  the  church,  with  the  adjoining  burial-chapel  of  the  kings 
of  the  house  of  A^iz  (p.  504),  and  to  the  first  cloisters  (CXaustrc 
Beal)^  with  their  adjacent  rooms.  The  design  and  style  of  these  parts 
of  the  structure  reveal  the  influence  of  English  models,  and  perhaps 
the  Yery  name  of  Batalha  may  be  an  echo  of  William  the  Conqueror's 
Battle  Abbey.  The  building -plan  and  the  masons  were  obtained 
through  Philippa  of  Lancaster  (p.  568),  probably  from  England.  The 
original  master-builders  were  Affonso  Domingues  (d.  before  1402), 
a  Portuguese,  and  Houguet  or  Hiiet  (Hacket?),  an  Irishman.  King 
Edward  (Duarte ;  1433-38)  expanded  this  simple  plan  and  began  the 
building  of  the  Capellas  Imperfeitas,  the  name  still  given  to  the 
second  and  larger,  but  'uncompleted'  mausoleum  behind  the  choir. 
In  spite  of  the  testamentary  wish  of  the  king  that  this  mausoleum 
should  be  finished,  his  successor  Affonso  V.  (1438-81)  confined 
himself  to  the  erection  of  the  second  cloisters  (Claustro  de  Dom 
Affonso  QuifUo).  The  designer  of  these  was  probably  the  third 
master-builder  Martim  Vasquea  (d.  before  1448)  or  Femffo  d^Evora 
(still  living  in  1473). 

It  was  not  till  the  reign  of  Emmanuel  the  Fortunate  (1495-1521) 
that  the  completion  of  the  Capellas  Imperfeitas  was  determined  on 
—  it  is  said  at  the  instigation  of  Queen  Leonora.  The  work,  how- 
ever, progressed  bi^t  slowly,  as  the  king  soon  transferred  his  interest 
to  the  new  convent  of  Belem  (p.  536)  and  selected  its  church  as 
his  mausoleum.  Matthew  Femandet  the  Elder  (from  1480 ;  d.  1516) 
and  M.  Ferrmndea  the  Younger  (A.  1628)  are  named  as  the  master 
builders.  To  the  design  of  the  former  are  probably  due  the  vestibule 
of  the  new  mausoleum ,  with  its  celebrated  portal,  the  vaulting  of 
the  chapels,  and  the  massive  piers  of  the  upper  octagon.  The  win- 
dow-tracery of  the  Claustro  Real  was  then  executed  in  the  same 
ornate  *Emmanuer  style  (p.  536).  In  the  reign  of  John  IIL  (1521- 
57)  Jodo  de  Castilho  (p.  536)  added  the  inappropriate  Renaissance 
balustrade  of  the  vestibule,  since  which  nothing  has  been  done  to- 
wards the  completion  of  the  mausoleum.  In  1661,  however,  John  III. 
extended  the  convent,  which  now  accommodated  sixty  monks,  by 
the  erection  of  the  Claustro  de  Dom  Jodo  III.  and  its  large  adjoin- 
ing rooms. 

The  earthquake  of  1766  is  said  to  have  overthrown  the  tower  of 
the  founder's  chapel.  In  1810  the  French  under  Mass^na  destroyed 
the  cloisters  of  John  III.  and  plundered  the  royal  sarcophagi  and  the 
altars  of  both  church  and  chapel.  After  the  suppression  of  the  con- 
vents (1884)  Batalha  was  declared  a  national  monument  (1840),  and 
an  annual  sum  of  two  million  reis  was  set  apart  for  its  maintenance, 


to  Leiria,  BATALHA.  60,  Route.   557 

Since  then  almost  all  the  injured  portions  of  the  building  and  sculp- 
tures have  been  gradually  restored.  Batalha,  the  great  monument  of 
Portugars  independence,  has  thus  arisen  phoenix-like  from  its  ruins 
and  is  once  more  one  of  the  grandest  buildings  of  Christendom.  Its 
situation  is,  indeed,  inferior  to  that  of  the  Alhambra,  the  greatest 
Moorish  monument  in  the  Peninsula,  and  it  lacks  the  sensuous  charm 
of  the  AraVfl  fancy,  but  it  almost  surpasses  the  Moorish  edifice  in 
sumptuous  splendour.  This  effect  is  largely  due  to  its  material,  a 
marble-like  limestone  from  the  neighbouring  quarries ,  which  has 
acquired  a  beautiful  golden-brown  tone  through  the  lapse  of  ages. 

One  keeper  (150-200  rs.)  shows  the  charch;  another  (200-300  rs.)  the 
cloisters,  museum,  chapter-room,  Gapellas  Imperfeitas,  and  roof. 

The  Gothic  *Church  is  entered  by  the  richly  articulated  W.  or 
Mam  Portal ,  which  has  been  partly  restored.  It  is  adorned  with 
figures  of  Moses  and  the  Prophets .  saints  and  angels  (the  latter  in 
the  soffits  of  the  arch).  In  the  pediment  over  the  door  is  Gh)d  the 
Father  surrounded  by  the  Eyangelists ;  and  at  the  apex  of  the  arch 
is  the  Coronation  of  the  Virgin.  To  the  S.  the  church  is  adjoined 
by  the  CapeUa  do  Fundador  (see  below),  the  upper,  octagonal  portion 
of  which  is  covered  with  a  flat  stone  rooft.  The  main  tower  of  the 
church  (p.  560)  is  not  visible  from  this  side.  From  the  S.  the  church 
is  entered  by  the  Porta  Travewa. 

The  Intbriob  is  263  ft.  long  and  106  ft.  wide.  The  nave  is 
divided  from  each  of  the  aisles  by  eight  plain  piers.  The  transepts 
are  narrow.  The  pentagonal  apse  is  adjoined  on  each  side  by  two 
tri-apsidal  chapels.  The  absence  of  side-altars,  ornamental  sculptures, 
and  the  like  produces  an  extraordinary  echo.  Lofty  coloured  win- 
dows, many  of  them  unsatisfactorily  restored,  admit  an  unusual 
amount  of  light.  The  choir- windows  still  retain  the  old  stained  glass 
by  QiUtherme  de  Belles,  Mestre  Jodo,  and  Antonio  Taca,  with  re- 
presentations of  the  Annunciation  (1.),  Visitation  (1.),  Adoration  of 
the  Magi  (r.),  and  the  Flight  into  Fgypt  (r.). 

The  most  interesting  tombs  are  those  of  King  Edward  and  his  wife 
Leonora  of  Aragon,  in  front  of  the  high-altar,  still  showing  many 
traces  of  French  vandalism;  that  of  the  architect  Matthew  Femandes 
the  Elder  (jp.6b&)^  adjoining  the  W.  portal;  th&tof  the  Duke  of  Aveiro^ 
father  of  the  conspirator  executed  at'Belem  (p.  535 ;  arms  and  in- 
scription erased),  in  the  Chapel  of  8t,  Barbara ;  that  of  John  II. 
f  1481-95),  much  mutilated,  in  the  CapeUa  de  NossaSenhora  doPranto 
no^N.S.  dePUdade);  and,  finally,  the  family  tomb  of  the  De  Souaae, 
in  the  Cap.  de  Sao  Miguel. 

The  Sacristy  J  entered  from  the  Chapel  of  St  Barbara,  is  now  bare 
and  empty. 

A  sumptuous  doorway  leads  from  the  S.  aisle  into  the  ♦♦Founder'g 
Chapel  (CapeUa  do  Fundador),  a  chamber  65  ft.  square ,   with  a 

+  This  roof  was  probably  constructed  after  the  earthquake,  to  replace 
the  octagonal  spire  shown  in  De  Sousa's  account  of  Batalha  (ITlh  cent.}. 


558  Route  60,  BATALHA.  From  VaUado 

light  and  elegant  octagon  in  its  centre,  borne  by  eight  pillaTS.  The 
slender  pillars,  the  ornate  arches,  thewindow-traeery,  and  the  bosses 
in  the  vaulting  of  the  octagon  are  all  alike  executed  "with  a  Jewel- 
like perfection  of  finish. 

Under  the  octagon,  bonie  by  eight  lions,  rests  the  lofty  sarcopha- 
gus of  John  J.  ('de  boa  memoria' ;  d.  1434)  and  his  wife  Phil^pa 
of  Lancaster  (d.  1416),  daughter  of  John  of  Gaunt.  The  right  hands 
of  the  king  and  qneen  are  clasped.  The  large  canopy  over  their  heads, 
bearing  the  arms  of  Portugal  and  England,  is  a  restoration.  The 
dress  and  armour  still  retain  traces  of  colour  and  gilding.  Round 
the  upper  margin  runs  a  briar-wreath,  bearing  the  mottoes  ^il  me 
plet^  (plait)  and  ^por  bem*  (p.  543).  The  sockets  at  the  corners  are 
for  torches. 

In  four  niches  in  the  S.  wall  of  the  chapel  are  the  (almost  wholly 
restored)  tombs  of  the  four  younger  children  of  the  royal  pair  in  the 
middle.  The  one  most  to  the  left  is  that  of  the  Infante  Ferdinand^ 
the  *Prfncipe  Constanta'  of  Calderon^s  immortal  drama,  who  *held 
tho  public  welfare  higher  than  his  own*  (Gamoens) ;  it  bears  the 
motto  ^le  bien  me  plet\ 

On  the  hickleM  campaign  against  Tangier  in  1486  tbe  Portugnese  were 
allowed  by  the  Moors  to  retire  unscathed,  on  condition  that  they  should 
surrender  the  important  fortress  of  Geuta  ,  captured  by  them  in  1415. 
Prince  Ferdinand  was  left  behind  as  hostage.  When  King  Edward  refused 
to  ratify  the  treaty,  the  prince  was  taken  to  the  interior  of  Horoeco  'and 
cast  into  prison,  where  he  remained  till  his  death  on  June  5th,  1443.  No 
temptation  of  the  Moors  overcame  his  steadfastness.  His  dead,  body  was 
restored  to  his  countrymen  after  the  capture  of  Tangier  by  Affonso  V. 
(1471),  and  on  June  17th,  1472,  it  was  interred  at  Batolha.  The  Infante 
Sonto  is  still  a  national  Portuguese  hero.  Gamoens  celebrates  him  as 
$(mcio  irmSo  Fernando  (Lusiads,  VI,  52). 

The  double  monument  of  the  Infante  John  (d.  1442),  Grand 
Master  of  the  Order  of  Santiago,  and  his  wife  Isabella  bears  reliefs 
of  the  Bearing  of  the  Cross,  the  Crucifixion,  and  the  Descent  from 
the  Cross  (this  last  ancient)}  the  motto  is  ^je  ai  bien  reson.  Next 
coinos  the  tomb  of  the  Infante  Henry  (d.  1460),  whom  history  has 
honoured  with  the  title  of  the  'Navigator'  on  account  of  his  zealous 
encouragement  of  the  ocean-expeditions  of  the  Portuguese,  though 
he  himself  never  took  part  in  a  voyage  of  discovery ;  his  motto  is 
Halant  de  bien  fere\  The  last  tomb  is  that  of  Peter ,  Duke  of  Coimbra, 
who  fell  in  1449  at  the  battle  of  Alfarrobeira  (p.  513),  witli  the 
inscription  'dd'aiV  (Port,  saudade,  an  untranslatable  word  expressive 
of  intense  regret  and  longing ;  comp.  Ger.  Sehmucht),  The  Order  of 
the  Garter  appears  on  the  last  two  monuments. 

By  the  E.  wall  of  the  chapel  formerly  stood  four  altars,  dedicated 
respectively  to  the  Guardian  Angel  of  Portugal,  John  the  Baptist, 
St.  James  (S&o  Thiago),  and  the  Assumption.  In  the  W.  wall  are 
four  empty  tomb-recesses. 

The  ^Itoyal  Cloisters  (^Claustro  Real ;  entr.  from  the  church  or 
on  the  E. side)  are  very  picturesque.  To  the  S.  and  S.E.  the  church  an d 
^ower  rise  above  the  arcades  enclosing  the  garden-like  court,  and 


to  Leiria.  BATALHA.  60.  Route.   559 

to  the  £.  is  the  chapter-house;  in  the  N.W.  angle  is  a  well-house. 
The  Gothic  style  of  Portngal  is  here  seen  in  all  its  phases,  from  the 
simplest  forms  to  the  most  extravagantly  fantastic.  Each  walk  of  the 
cloisters  is  182  ft.  long  and  opens  on  the  oonrt  in  seven  arches,  each 
sabdivided  by  3-6  slender  columns.  The  upper  part  of  the  arches  is 
filled  with  tracery  of  well-nigh  Oriental  intricacy.  Two  patterns  only 
occur  in  this  tracery ;  one  is  an  elaborate  net-work  of  briar-branches, 
enclosing  in  some  cases  the  armillary  spheres  that  formed  the  'devise 
parlante'  of  King  Emmanuel ;  the  other  is  a  singular  combination 
of  the  double  cross  of  the  Order  of  Christ  with  the  stems  and  blossoms 
of  the  lotus,  evidently  symbolizing  the  enterprizes  of  the  Portuguese 
in  the  distant  Orient.  The  *  WeU  House  (PavilMo)  resembles  a 
chapel,  connected  with  the  N.  and  W.  walks  of  the  cloister  by  a 
larger  and  a  smaller  arch  and  presenting  two  lofty  arched  windows 
on  the  sides  facing  the  garth.  The  tracery  with  the  lotus  is  repeated 
in  the  lower  part  of  the  arches.  The  five  water-basins  In  the  middle 
are  of  fantastic  form.  The  views  from  the  arcades  and  the  well-house 
are  singularly  fascinating,  especiallyby  bright  sunshine.  The  tracery 
of  the  galleries  is  mostly  modern. 

The  Refectory  (Befdtorio),  98  ft.  long  and  23  ft.  wide,  lies  to 
the  W.  of  that  part  of  the  cloisters  containing  the  well-house.  Since 
the  restoration  of  the  convent  it  has  been  used  as  a  Museum, 

Among  the  numerous  architectural  and  sculptured  fragments  are  parts 
of  the  original  figures  on  the  W.  portal  of  the  church  (p.  557)  and  remains 
of  the  old  tombs  of  Prince  John,  Prince  Henry  the  "Nayigator,  and 
Prince  Ferdinand  (see  p.  568).  The  latter  has  a  hole  in  which  the  devout 
used  to  place  their  rosaries.  The  muBeum  also  contains  the  helmet  of 
John  II.  and  Uie  sword  and  helmet  used  by  John  I.  at  the  battle  of  Al- 
jubarrota. 

To  the  N.  of  the  cloisters  is  an  Adega^  or  cellar. 

The  *Chapter  House  (8ala  do  Capitulo),  to  the  E.  of  the  cloisters, 
is  entered  by  a  large  doorway,  flanked  by  two  arched  windows.  Door 
and  windows  are  alike  deeply  recessed  and  subdivided  by  slender 
columns.  The  interior  is  62  ft.  square  and  is  covered  by  a  bold 
vaulted  roof  unsupported  by  pillars.  The  large  E.  window  contains 
three  main  lights,  above  which  is  an  expanse  of  the  richest  tracery. 
The  stained  glass,  with  representations  of  the  Passion ,  is  modern. 
On  a  corbel  in  the  S.E.  corner  is  an  alleged  portrait-statue  of 
Affonso  Domingues  (p.  656).  In  the  middle  of  the  room  rest  Af~ 
fonso  v.,  his  wife  UabeUa^  and  the  young  Frince  Affonso  who  was 
drowned  at  Santarem  (p.  612). 

A  *Manoelino'  portal  in  the  N.W.  angle  of  the  Royal  Cloisters 
leads  to  the  Cloisters  of  Affonso  V.  (Clauttro  de  DomAffonso  Quintojj 
erected  in  the  middle  of  the  16th  cent,  in  the  simple  Gothic  style 
of  the  period.  Each  walk  is  145  ft.  in  length. 

The  *Capellas  Imperfeitas  (entr.  on  the  E.  side  of  the  convent) 
adjoin  the  E.  end  of  the  church  but  have  no  organic  connection  with 
it.  According  to  the  original  design  (p.  556),  the  central  octagon, 
with  a  diameter  of  about  65  ft.,    was  surrounded  by  seven  largo 


560  lUmueo.  BATALHA. 

obapels,  each  29  ft.  deep  and  haying  a  tri-apsidal  termination  and 
three  tail  windows.  The  intervening  spaces  were  occnpied  by  six 
lower  pentagonal  chapels ,  each  with  a  single  window.  The  star- 
vanlting  of  the  npper  octagon  was  probably  meant  to  be  a  flat  roof 
of  stone.  The  lofty  dome  planned  by  the  architect  of  the  Emmanuel 
period  necessitated  the  construction  of  tower-like  buttresses  at  the 
angles  of  the  octagon  and  the  partial  walling-up  of  the  six  smaller 
chapels.  The  central  part  of  the  building  was  f^om  the  first  reserved 
for  King  Edward,  while  the  three  large  chapels  to  the  E.,  facing 
the  entrance,  were  meant  to  contain  the  tombs  of  Affonso  V.,  John  11.^ 
and  Emmanuel  himself.  The  original  idea  was  in  all  probability  to 
connect  the  W.  side  of  the  mausoleum  with  the  church  by  a  narrow 
corridor,  but  the  'Manoelino'  architect  devised  a  large  vestibule 
(p(tUo),  with  a  *PorUU,  50  ft.  high  and  25  ft.  wide,  surmounted  by 
a  clerestory. 

The  new  towers,  which  were  left  unfinished  at  the  top,  are  eon- 
strncted,  after  Indian  models ,  in  the  form  of  bundles  of  reeds  and 
adorned  with  foliage  and  other  ornamentation.  In  the  interior, 
between  the  towers  and  the  arches  of  the  chapels,  are  two  rich  friezes  j 
and  between  these  friezes  are  eight  shields  with  armorial  bearings. 
The  most  exquisite  work  is  that  of  the  doorway,  where  the  stone 
seems  to  lose  itself  in  a  lace-like  web  of  the  most  extravagant  exub- 
erance of  fancy. 

The  elegant  Benafssanee  Bakutrade  of  JoSo  de  Castilho,  on  the 
W.  side  of  the  vestibule,  the  latest  addition  to  the  mausoleum,  seems 
somewhat  out  of  keeping  with  the  rest  of  the  structure. 

Visitors  should  not  omit  to  visit  the  Boof  and  Tower  of  the 
church,  either  from  the  Capellas  Imperfeitas  or  (easier)  from  the 
Cloisters  of  Affonso  V.  (p.  569),  in  order  to  enjoy  the  excellent 
bird's  eye  view  of  the  buildings  of  the  convent  and  the  panorama  of 
the  surrounding  country. 

To  the  S.E.  of  the  village  of  Batalha  is  the  ruinous  church  of  Santa 
Cruz^  built  by  JoSo  de  Gastilho  in  1512-32,  with  a  fine  Renaissance  portal 
and  a  tasteful  retablo.  —  Fine  Views  are  afforded  by  the  hills  to  the  £. 
and  the  pine-wood  to  the  W. 

The  BOA.D  PBOM  Batalha.  to  Leibia  (8  M.)  first  traverses  a  ven- 
erable pine-forest  and  then  leads  between  corn-fields  and  vineyards. 
The  Pinhal  Real  (p.  552)  is  seen  in  the  distance,  to  the  left.  Beyond 
Azoia^  with  its  fine  oaks,  the  road  descends  into  the  valley  of  the 
Liz,  soon  affording  a  view  of  the  castle  of  Leiria  (p.  552). 

61.  From  Lisbon  to  Oporto  vid  Entroncamento, 
AlfarelioSy  Coimbra,  and  Fampilbosa. 

213  M.  Railway  (one  express  and  two  ordinary  trains  daily)  in  10»/4, 
13,  and  14  hrs.  (fares  6810,  53(X),  3790  rs.).  The  express  consists  of  first  and 
second-class  carriages  only.  As  far  as  Entroneamento  we  may  also  use  the 
drains    for    Spanish  Estremadura    (RE.  64,  47) j    and   the  'train  de   luxe 


THOMAR.  61.  Route,   561 

mentioned  at  pp.  571  and  464  runs  twice  weekly  to  Pampilhosa.  From 
Payalvo  a  diligence  plies  to  Thomar^  and  from  Coimbra-Bifureaiao  a  branch 
railway  runs  to  the  town  of  Coimbya.  Excursion  to  Bussaco^  see  p.  572. 
—  There  are  railway-restaurants  at  *Entroncamento^  Al/arellot^  and  */*««»- 
pilhosa,  and  a  refreshment-counter  at  Goimbra-Bi/wcagdlo. 

The  only  interesting  parts  of  the  line  are  near  Coimbra  and  as  we 
approach  Oporto.  The  view  of  the  latter  city  from  the  Ponte  de  Maria 
Pia  (p.  565)  is  unparalleled  in  the  whole  Peninsula.  Between  Lisbon  and 
Entroncamento  and  near  Coimbra  the  best  views  are  to  the  right,  during 
the  rest  of  the  journey  to  the  left. 

From  Lisbon  to  [70  M.)  Entroncamento ^  see  pp.  514-611.  —  The 
train  now  quits  the  valley  of  the  Tagus,  passes  the  villages  of  AtaUtia 
and  CarrasedCy  and  intersects  the  E.  spurs  of  the  Serra  do  Aire. 

89  M.  Payalvo  is  the  station  (diligence  200  rs.)  for  — 

Thomar  (400  ft. ;  Hoapedaria  de  Campedo ;  Hosp.  de  PrUtd)^ 
one  of  the  most  interesting  towns  in  Portugal ,  which  lies  on  the 
NabdOj  about  41/2  M.  to  the  E.  Its  chief  lions  are  the  mediaBval 
churches  and  the  castle  of  the  Order  of  Christ,  the  latter  rising  to 
the  W.  of  the  town,  a-bove  the  pleasant  olive-clad  plain. 

The  Gasiello  de  Ceras^  lying  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Nabao,  on  the 
site  of  the  ancient  Boman  Nahanda^  was  entrusted  to  the  Knights  Templar 
in  1169,  during  the  wars  with  the  Moors.  Their  Grand  Master,  Qualdim 
Paes^  erected  here  the  church  of  Santa  Maria  do  Olival,  and  in  1160  began 
the  construction  of  a  more  advantageously  situated  castle  on  the  hills  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  river.  Under  the  shelter  of  this  castle  sprang  up 
the  town  of  Thomar.  An  old  inscription  informs  us  how  the  Templars  here 
successfully  resisted  a  six  days'  attack  made  by  the  Almohads  (p.  809) 
under  Jbu  Ycfkub  YHsuf  in  1190. 

On  the  suppression  of  the  Temple  Order  in  1314,  King  Denis  estab- 
lished the  Ordeb  of  Ghbist  (Ordem  de  Cavallaria  de  Ifotse  Senhor  Jesus 
Ohristo)  *for  the  defence  of  the  faith,  the  discomfiture  of  the  Moors,  and 
the  extension  of  the  Portuguese  monarchy'.  The  castle  of  Castro  Marim, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Guadiana,  was  at  llrst  assigned  to  the  new  Order,  but  it 
was  transferred  to  Thomar  in  1334  (or  1356  ?).  The  golden  age  of  the 
Order  began  under  Dom  Henrique^  Duke  of  Vieeu,  the  famous  Henry  the 
Navigator  (p.  558),  who  was  Grand-Master  from  1418  to  1460.  This  prince, 
the  pioneer  of  the  colonial  policy  of  Europe,  used  the  great  wealth  of  the 
Order  mainly  in  the  equipment  of  squadrons  for  discovery  and  conquest 
on  the  E.  coast  of  Africa,  and  to  this  end  founded  (1421)  the  town  of  Sagres^ 
with  its  wharves  and  schools  of  seamanship,  close  by  the  Holy  Gape^  where 
his  fleets  started.  In  1454  the  Order  received  from  Aflfonso  V.  the  spiritual 
jurisdiction  over  all  the  conquered  lands ^  under  Emmanuel,  who  succeeded 
as  Duke  of  Vizeu  to  the  Grand- Masterfihip  in  148i,  its  immense  possessions 
in  Africa  and  India  made  it  the  wealthiest  order  in  Christendom.  To 
this  activity  of  the  Order,  so  full  of  advantage  for  Portugal,  an  end  was 
put  by  the  pietistic  John  III.,  who  converted  the  Order  from  one  of  chivalry 
to  one  of  monkhood  (1623)  and  made  the  Grand-Mastership  of  the  three 
Portuguese  orders  (Thomar,  Crato ,  and  Aviz)  hereditary  in  the  Crown. 
In  the  Spanish  period  the  Order  of  Christ  sank  so  low  as  to  be  merely 
the  servile  tool  of  the  foreign  monarchs. 

Thomar  possesses  a  fine  Praca,  with  a  Pelourinho  (p.  631)  bear- 
ing the  armillary  sphere  of  King  Emmanuel.  Here  stands  the  church 
of  SXo  Joio  Baptista,  built  about  1490,  with  a  tasteful  portal  in  the 
'Manoelino'  style  (p.  636)  and  a  Tower  ending  in  an  octagonal,  spire. 
The  interior  contains  an  ancient  font,  a  late-Gothic  octagonal  pulpit, 
and  some  excellent  pictures  (Baptism  of  Christ  at  the  high-altar 
etc.)  ascribed  by  Justi  to  a  pupil  of  Quinten  Matsys  (Simon  ?)  a 

Babdkkeb's  Spain  and  Portugal.  36 


562  RouUei,  THOMAR.  From  lAshon 

Vekuco  (p.  667).  —  Not  far  off  Ifl  the  octagonal  chapel  of  8&o  6re- 
gorio,  whence  a  flight  of  265  steps  ascends  to  the  ermida  of  Nosaa 
Senhora  da  Piedade,  a  much-frequented  pilgrimage  -  church  dating 
from  1613  (good  views).  About  halfway  up,  to  the  right,  is  the 
ruined  chapel  of  No88e  Senhor  JesHs  do  Monte, 

From  S&o  Jo&o  Baptista  we  may  cross  the  Nabao  by  the  old 
Bridge  and  descend  ▼!&  the  cemetery  to  Santa  Mabia  do  OiiIval, 
the  old  church  of  the  Templars,  which  down  to  the  time  of  Johnlll. 
was  the  seat  of  the  Great  Chapter  of  the  Order  of  Christ  and  the 
burial-place  of  the  most  prominent  knights ,  while  it  was  the  *Mo- 
ther'  of  all  the  churches  of  the  Order  in  the  Portuguese  colonies.  It 
was  entirely  rebuilt  in  the  Gothic  style  in  1450,  with  the  exception 
of  the  W.  facade  and  the  detached,  fortress-like  tower.  The  most 
interesting  objects  in  the  interior  are  the  graceful  pulpit  and  the 
beautiful  monument  of  Bishop  Diogo  Pinheiro  (d.  1526),  both  in 
the  Renaissance  style.  —  We  now  return  to  S&o  Jo&o  Baptista  and 
ascend  the  castle-hill  by  the  Rua  de  Santiago.  On  the  way  we  pass 
the  church  of  Nossa  Senhora  da  Concei^do ,  an  elegant  Renaissance 
structure  of  1579  (1641?),  and  several  Co^umni  bearing  the  emblems 
of  the  Order  of  Christ.  At  the  top  we  reach  the  old  Castle  of  the  Tem- 
plars, on  the  E.  margin  of  the  hill.  Hence  a  few  steps  lead  to  the 
Palace  of  Henry  the  Navigator,  restored  and  enlarged  in  the  16th 
cent,  by  Queen  Catharine,  widow  of  John  III.   Beyond  this  is  the  — 

♦CoNVBNTO  DB  Chkisto,  the  convent-palace  of  the  Knights  of 
Christ,  affording  an  admirable  survey  of  the  course  of  Portuguese 
architecture  from  the  12th  to  the  17th  century.  To  the  Templar  per- 
iod belong  one  of  the  smaller  cloisters  and  the  old  church  (ca.  1162), 
occupying  the  highest  point  of  the  hill  and  said  to  be  an  imitation  of 
the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  at  Jerusalem.  Two  other  cloisters 
and  a  chapter-house  were  erected  by  Henry  the  Navigator.  Emman- 
uel added  the  new  church  of  the  Order  of  Christ  with  a  chapter 
room  below  its  high-choir,  the  small  Claustro  de  Santa  Barbara,  and 
the  uncompleted  new  chapter-house.  Extensive  new  buildings  were 
necessitated  by  John  lU.'s  transformation  of  the  Order.  Four  new 
cloisters,  extensive  dormitories,  and  other  structures  were  added, 
which  were  not  completed  till  the  time  of  the  Spanish  monarchs. 
The  fine  aqueduct ,  3  M.  long ,  was  constructed"  by  Philip  II.  and 
Philip  III.  in  1595-1613.  In  1810  the  French  burned  the  hand- 
some stalls  of  the  new  church,  executed  by  Olivel  de  Gand  (1509). 
The  Conde  de  Thomas  saved  the  buildings  from  utter  ruin  by  buying 
a  part  of  them  in  1843  after  the  suppression  of  the  Order  (1834). 

A  handsome  double-flight  of  steps  ascends  to  a  large  Platfobh  or 
Tbrbagb,  on  which,  to  the  left,  Is  the  New  Chapter  Mouse  ^  a  two-storied 
edifice  by  Joao  de  Castilho  (p.  536),  of  which  the  outer  walls  only  are  com- 
pleted. On  the  second  story  is  a  triangular  apse  for  the  throne  of  the 
Grand-Master.  To  the  right  are  the  battlemented  Temple  Church  (see  be- 
low) and  (partly  hidden  by  the  Claustro  dos  Filippes)  the  **Chukch  of 
THE  Ordbs  op  Christ,  the  brilliant  masterpiece,  by  Joao  de  Castilho ,  of 
the  'Manoelino'  style  (p.  536).    The  chief  features  of  the  exterior  are  the 


to  OpoHo,  POMBXL.  6J.  BouU.    563 

ornate  W.  doorway,  recalling  that  of  Belem  \  the  exquisite  tracery  of  the 
arcade,  with  the  sphere  of  Emmanael  and  the  cross  of  the  Order  \  and  the 
semi-Indian  flying  buttresses  at  the  N.W.  angle.  The  half-length  figure 
on  the  N.  side,  below  the  fantastic  window  of  the  chapter-house ,  passes 
for  a  portrait  of  the  architect  (?)  Ajfre*  do  Quintal.  The  interior  is  roofed 
by  fine  reticulated  vaulting,  rising  above  a  series  of  exquisite  corbels.  On 
the  K.  side  is  the  Coro  AUo  (entr.,  see  below),  below  which  is  the  Chapter 
Room,  with  windows  recalling  Indian  models. 

The  *Tbicplb  Chubch  is  connected  witii  the  church  of  the  Order  of 
Christ  by  a  lofty  pointed  arch  and  has  been  used  as  its  choir  (capella- 
mdr)  since  the  time  of  Emmanuel.  It  is  a  sixteen-sided  structure,  with  a 
central  octagon  (eharota)  for  the  high-altar.  The  ornate  decoration,  the 
paintings  (by  a  Fleming),  the  statues  of  twelve  prophets  on  the  walls,  and 
the  remains  of  a  group  of  the  Crucifixion  (by  OKvel  de  Oandf)  all  date 
from  the  reign  of  Emmanuel.  To  the  right  of  the  large  connecting  arch- 
way is  a  handsome  Renaissance  pulpit. 

To  the  £.  of  the  Temple  Church  is  the  Gothic  Clausiro  do  CemenieriOi 
the  only  extant  portion  of  the  building  from  the  time  of  Henry  the  Navi- 
gator. It  contains  the  tomb  of  Diogo  da  Qama  (d.  1525)  and  other  monu- 
ments.   Adjacent  is  the  SaerUip,  built  by  Philip  III.  in  1620. 

To  the  K.  of  the  churches  lie  the  small  Claustro  de  Santa  Barbara^ 
in  the  early-Renaissance  style,  and  the  extensive  Convent  Buildings  of 
the  16-17th  centuries.  The  latter  include  large  Corridors  ^  about  100  yds. 
long,  flanked  on  both  sides  by  cells;  a  small  and  elegant  central  apart- 
ment with  a  dome  •,  four  huge  Cloiiters  (Claustro  da  Hospedaria,  dos  Fi' 
lippes,  dos  Corvos,  and  do  Mixo);  the  lUfectory;  the  Ahbofs  Houu;  the 
Novieiaie;  and  large  store-rooms,  kitchens,  and  the  like  on  the  groundfloor. 
The  best  of  these  buildings  is  the  *Clau*iro  dos  FiKppes  (S.W.),  a  hand- 
some two-storied  building  of  the  time  of  the  Spanish  kings ,  in  the  late- 
Renaissance  style  and  resembling  in  some  degree  the  creations  of  Palladlo. 
In  the  middle  of  the  court  is  a  tasteful  fountain.  —  An  ornate  *£mmanuer 
door  leads  hence  to  the  high-choir  (see  above)  of  the  church  of  the  Order 
of  Christ.  From  these  cloisters,  too,  we  may  ascend  the  small  tower,  with 
the  largest  bell  in  Portugal,  or  to  the  roof  of  the  church. 

Beyond  Thomar  the  railway  ascends  considerably.  85  M.  Chdo 
de  Magds  is  the  starting-point  of  a  diligence  to  Ourem  and  Leirfa 
(p,  552).  We  thread  a  tunnel.  91  M.  Caxarias ,  on  a  tributary  of 
the  Nabao,  near  large  pine-woods.  The  train  crosses  the  watershed 
between  the  Tagus  and  the  Mondego  by  a  tunnel  and  descends  vi^ 
(97  M.)  AlbergarCa  into  the  valley  of  the  Arunca ,  which  it  reaches 
at  (105  M.)  Vermoil. 

110  M.  Fomb&l,  an  attractive  town  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Arunca,  with  a  conspicuous  ruined  castle,  was  founded  byGualdim 
Paes  (p.  561)  in  1181.  Pop.  5000.  It  furnished  the  title  of  Sebas- 
tido  Josi  de  Carvalho  e  Mello^  the  *Gran  Marqu^z',  who  was  born  at 
Soure  on  May  13th,  1699.  After  the  death  of  Joseph  I.  (1777)  the 
once  all-powerful  minister  (pp,  520,  536)  was  degraded  and  exiled 
to  Pombal,  where  he  died  on  May  8th,  1782.  —  The  chief  objects  of 
interest  are  the  above-mentioned  Castle^  the  modern  Igreja  Matris, 
and  the  remains  of  the  Romanesque  Temple  Churchy  formerly  a 
mosque,  with  interesting  horseshoe  portal,, and  other  Moorish  ^traces 
in  its  capitals  and  vaulting. 

Diligence  from  Pombal  to  Leiria,  see  p.  553. 

The  old  Lisbon  highroad  (p.  553)  leads  from  Pombal  direct  to  the  N.F 
through  the  mountains,  passing  Redinha,  Condeixa^  and  Ssmache^  to  (26 
Coimbra  (p.  565)  —  a  day's  journey  on  horseback. 

86« 


564   BauU  61.  AVEIRO.  From  Lisbon 

The  train  follows  the  right  bank  of  the  Arunca,  passing  numer- 
ous cork-trees.  To  the  E.  rises  the  Serra  de  Louzd  (3943  ft.)  ,  the 
S.W.  prolongation  of  the  Serra  da  Estrella.  ^  116  M.  Soure^  the 
first  place  in  the  province  otBeira(Mar).  As  we  proceed,  the  high- 
lying  town  of  Monte mor  Velho  (see  below)  comes  into  sight  on  the 
left,  beyond  the  Mondego. 

127  M.  AlfareUoB  (Bail.  Bestaurant),  a  poor  place,  but  of  some 
importance  as  the  junction  of  the  railway  to  Lisbon  via  Leiria  (R.  59). 
'Ovos  molles'  (see  below)  are  sold  at  the  station. 

The  train  runs  to  the  N.E.  through  a  marshy  district.  Beyond 
(129  M.)  FormoseUia  it  approaches  the  Mondego ,  which  here  flows 
through  the  Campo  de  Mondego^  a  fertile  plain  with  vines,  oranges, 
and  orchards.  —  Beyond  (136M.)  Taveiro  we  cross  the  Mondego  by 
a  long  iron  bridge,  obtaining  a  *Glimpse  to  the  right  of  Goimbra, 
rising  white  above  the  verdure  of  the  plain. 

139  M.  Coimbra^BifurcacSo  (buffet)  is  the  station  for  the  short 
(1^4  M.)  branch-line  to  Coimbra  (p.  565;  carriages  changed). 

We  now  traverse  a  pleasant  hilly  district  between  the  Serra  cCAl- 
coba  on  the  W.  and  the  Serra  da  LavrUo  (p.  566)  and  the  Serra  de 
Bussaco  (p.  572)  on  the  E.  —  144  M.  Souzellas. 

149  M.  Fampilhosa  (* Railway  Resiamant  ^  Hotel)  is  the  junc- 
tion of  the  line  to  Villar  Formosa  via  Ouarda  (R.  63)  and  of  a 
branch-line  to  Montemdr  Velho  and  (32  M.)  Figueira  da  Fo%  (p.  553). 
—  To  the  right  we  see  the  Fwnta  de  Bussaeo  (p.  638).  The  country 
becomes  flatter.  151  M.  Mealhada;  156  M.  Mogo fores ;  161  M.  Oli- 
veira  do  Bairro,  —  The  railway  bends  to  the  N.W.,  towards  the  sea, 
and  traverses  pine-woods,  vineyards,  and  com-flelds.  Beyond (170M.) 
Quintans  are  rice-fields. 

174  M.  Aveiro  (Hot,  de  Vouga;  Brit,  vice-consul),  the  Talabriga 
of  the  Romans,  a  small  seaport  and  bishop's  see  with  7400  inhab., 
lies  on  the  E.  edge  of  the  large  Ria  de  Aveiro^  a  marshy  shore-lake, 
resembling  the  lagoons  of  Venice  and  Holland.  Its  chief  articles  of 
export  are  salt  and  sardines.  The  fisheries  of  Aveiro  were  famous  in 
the  15-16th  centuries.  —  At  the  station  small  kegs  of  ovos  molles 
(a  kind  of  sweetened  eggs ;  200  rs.),  biscuits  (20  rs.) ,  and  pickled 
mussels  (mexilhffes  or  Afytilas  eduUs;  berbigdo  or  Cardium  edtde) 
are  offered  for  sale. 

The  Bia  stretches  along  the  coast  for  a  distance  of  nearly  20  H.  and 
is  separated  from  the  sea  by  a  narrow  spit  of  sand.  It  formerly  communi- 
cated with  the  sea  through  the  Vouga  and  Antua,  hut  the  mouths  of  these 
streams  were  stopped  up  at  the  beginning  of  the  i9th  cent,  by  new  sand- 
banks named  the  Alagadigos.  A  canal  named  the  Barra  Nova  had  accord- 
ingly to  be  constructed  at  great  expense  in  1801-8.  The  marshes  contain 
salt-water,  except  when  an  unusual  quantity  of  fresh  water  has  been  poured 
into  them  by  rain  and  river.    Near  the  sea  are  several  salt-pans  (marinhas). 

The  town  offers  little  of  interest.    We  may  visit  the  Cathedral, 

in  the  Travessa  da  Se,  and  the  church  of  Santo  Antonio,  situated  in 

an  f<\A  Couto  (i.e.  locus  cautus,  asylum)  and  affording  a  fine  view  of 

nd  the  ocean.   The  Convento  de  JesHs  contains  the  tomb  of 


''^> 


Ed 


1  =m  'fcl^---.-!//'   . 


^f^      ' 


to  Oporto.  OVAR.  61.  Route,   565 

8t.  Johanna,  daughter  of  AffonsoV.  In  the  Carmelite  Convtnt  is  that 
of  Brites  Lara,  the  second  wife  of  Gen.  Pietro  de'  Medici  (d.  1604). 
A  sail  or  row  on  the  Ria  to  the  Chapel  of  Nossa  8enhora  das  Areicu 
('sand'),  on  the  side  next  the  sea,  gives  a  good  opportunity  of  examining 
the  vegetation  of  the  marshes,  which  in  spring  is,  perhaps,  more  brilliant 
than  anything  else  of  the  kind  in  Europe. 

The  Railway  runs  through  a  pastoral  district  intersected  by 
canals,  and  crosses  the  Vouga  (the  ancient  Va^ua)  and  the  Antua, 
Beyond  (182  M.)  Eatarreja  we  enter  a  sandy,  pine-grown  district. 

191  M.  Ovar,  a  town  of  11,000  Inhab.,  lies  3  M.  from  the  sea, 
at  the  end  of  the  Aveiro  Canal,  and  carries  on  a  brisk  trade  in  tim- 
ber. —  Farther  on  we  traverse  pine-woods  (pinhaes)^  with  marshes 
and  'shifting'  dunes  to  the  left.  Beyond  (198  M.)  Esmoriz  the  line 
strikes  seaward,  across  the  dunes,  to  (201  M.)  Espinho  (Hot.  Parti- 
cular; Hot.  Bragan^a),  a  popular  sea-bathing  resort.  —  203  M. 
Qranja  (H6t.  de  Granja),  another  bathing-place,  with  a  pine-grove 
and  the  attractive  villas  of  the  Oporto  merchants.  We  are  now  in 
the  province  of  Minho, 

The  train  quits  the  sea  and  runs  via  (208  M.)  Valladares  towards 
the  lofty  S.  bank  of  the  Douro.  The  railway- cuttings  show  the  gran- 
itic foundations  of  this  fertile  district.  Farther  on  the  granite  is 
temporarily  replaced  by  slat-e.  Oporto  appears  to  the  left.  —  211  M. 
Oaia,  a  high- lying  place  with  country-houses,  is  the  station  for  Villa 
Nova  de  Gaia  and  Oporto  (comp.  pp.  573,  582). 

After  passing  some  cuttings  and  three  tunnels,  the  train  crosses 
the  deep  rocky  gorge  of  the  Douro  by  the  *Ponte  de  Maria  Pia ,  a 
fine  bridge  constructed  by  Messrs.  Eiffel  A  Co.  of  Paris  in  1876-77 
and  named  after  Queen  Maria  Pia.  It  crosses  the  ravine  in  a  single 
span  of  525  ft.;  its  total  length  is  1155  ft.,  its  height  200  ft.  The 
lower  part  of  the  bridge  is  of  granite,  while  1428  tons  of  iron  rods 
were  used  for  the  upper  part.  The  cost  amounted  to  1,340,000  ft*. 
From  the  bridge  we  have  a  splendid  view  of  Oporto  to  the  left,  the 
cathedral  and  bishop's  palace  standing  out  prominently. 

213  M.  Oporto,  see  p.  573. 


62.  Coimbra. 

The  Bailway  Station  (PI.  A,  2,  3)  lies  on  the  Mondego,  to  the  W.  of 
the  town,  about  V*  M.  from  the  hotels.  There  are  neither  hotel-omnibuses 
nor  cabs  in  waiting.    Porter  (mogo)  100-200  rs. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  502).  Hotel  Continental  (PI.  a;  C,  4),  Estrada  da 
Biera,  on  the  Mondego,  with  fine  view;  Hot.  Bbaoanva  (PI.  b;  B,  2),  Rua 
do  Visconde  da  Las;  Hut.  Hondboo  (PL  c ;  B,  3),  Largo  das  Ameias,  op- 
posite the  railway-station,  with  view  5  Hot.  dos  Caminhos  db  Fbrbo  (PI. 
d-,  B,  2),  H6t.  Centkal  (PI.  e:  B,  1),  Praya  Oitavo  de  Maio  37  and  30; 
Hot.  do  Commebgio  (PI.  f ;  B,  2),  Praca  do  Commercio.  These  houses  are 
far  from  first-class^  pens.  1000-1500  rs'. 

BooksellerB  in  the  Rua  do  Visconde  da  Luz  and  RuaFerreira  Borges. 
Coimbra,  being  a  university  town,  is  well  supplied  with  Portuguese  and 
foreign  literature. 

Photographs:  /.  Maria  dot  ScMtot^  Oaes  das  Ameias. 


568  Route  62.  COIMBRA.  86  Velha, 

To  the  convent  belong  also  the  oval  Santuario^  containing  a  multitude 
of  relicsi,  and  the  picturesque  Belfry  beyond  the  Bua  do  Hercado,  erected 
in  the  itth  century. 

Ill  the  RuA  DA  Sophia  (PI.  B,  1),  to  the  N.  of  the  Pra^a  Oitavo 
de  Maio,  are  several  late-Renaissance  buildings  of  the  second  half 
of  the  16th  cent.,  including  the  Collegia  do  Carmo  (PI.  B,  1),  Y?ith 
its  church  (1597),  the  unfinished  church  of  Sdo  Domingos  (Pi.  B,  1 ; 
now  a  carriage- factory),  the  CoUegio  da  Qra^a,  and  the  fine  court 
that  alone  remains  of  the  CoUegio  dot  Jesuiias.  —  The  Paieo  da 
JnquisiQao  (PI.  B,  C,  1),  to  the  N.E.  of  the  Pra^a  Oitavo  de  Maio, 
marks  the  site  of  the  prison  of  the  Inquisition  (1566-1821). 

Passing  to  the  E.  through  the  archway  in  the  bell-tower  of 
Santa  Cruz,  we  reach  the  Postal  Telegraph  Office  (p.  566)  and  the 
Mercado  (PI.  C,  1),  the  latter  thronged  in  the  morning  with  quaintly- 
dressed  peasants.  —  From  the  market  we  may  ascend ,  passing  the 
Theatre  (left),  to  the  (10  min.)  Qvinta  de  Santa  Cruz  (PI.  F,  3)  or 
Jogo  da  Bola^  a  relic  of  the  old  convent-gardens,  with  shady  grounds 
and  fountains.  Thence  we  may  proceed  to  the  S.  to  (5  min.)  the 
Aquedxbct  and  the  Botanic  Garden  (see  p.  569). 


Adjoining  the  house  numbered  75  in  the  Rua  do  Visconde  da 
Luz  (p.  567)  is  the  Arco  de  Almedina  (PI.  B,  C,  2,  3),  the  relic  of 
an  ancient  city-gate  (Arab,  medinaj  the  city).  Passing  through  this 
and  ascending  to  the  right ,  we  reach  the  Rua  de  Quebra  Costas, 
whence  a  flight  of  steps  (left)  leads  to  the  Rua  de  Sub-Ripas  (PI. 
C,  2).  At  the  end  of  this  last  street,  to  the  left,  is  the  PcUacio  da 
Rua  de  Sub-Ripas ,  an  interesting  edifice  in  the  *Manoelino'  style, 
erected  by  Joao  Vaz  about  1514.  The  main  facade  is  adorned  with 
weather-worn  ornamentation,  while  portrait- medallions  have  been 
inserted  irregularly  in  the  side- walls. 

Farther  up  is  the  Rua  dos  Coutinhos  (PI.  C,  2),  which  we  de- 
scend to  the  right  (S.).to  the  terrace  on  which  stands  the  — 

♦S6  Velha  (PI.  C,  3),  or  Old  Cathedral^  generally  known  as  a 
Velha.  This  massive  Romanesque  building  of  the  12th  cent.,  with 
its  battlements,  its  projecting  central  portion,  and  its  unadorned 
corner-buttresses,  resembles  a  fortress  rather  than  a  church.  On 
the  N.  side  is  the  Porta  Especiosa^  a  graceful  early-Renaissanc€ 
structure  in  three  stories,  with  charming  ornamentation  and  a  relief 
of  the  Madonna  in  the  pediment;  it  is  a  creation  of  the  French 
sculptor  named  at  p.  567.  A  Sarcophagus,  immured  in  the  wall, 
contains  the  remains  of  Dom  SisnandOj  the  first  Christian  governor 
of  the  town. 

The  Intbbiob,  enriched  in  the  16th  cent,  by  numerous  Renaissance 
additions,  and  modernized  and  whitewashed  in  1717-39,  has  been  under- 
going restoration  since  1894.  It  consists  of  a  nave  and  aisles,  a  transept, 
and  three  semicircular  apses.  The  pillars,  with  interesting  Romanesque 
capitals,  and  the  vaulting  arches  are  lined  with  beautiful  tiles.  Below 
the  high-choir  is  a  fine  wooden  ceiling  of  1520.  —  The  Capella  de  SSo 
Miguel^  in  the  right  aisle,  has  an  altar  with  six  paintings  of  the  Portu- 


Vnitersily.  COIMBRA.  62.  Route,^  569 

guese  school.  —  The  Capella  do  Sacramento  (1566)}  in  the  S.  apse,  contains 
the  tomb  of  its  builder,  Bishop  Joao  Soares.  —  The  large  late-Gothic 
Hiffh  Altar  (Altctr-Mdr)^  ascribed  to  Olivel  de  Gand  (?),  was  erected  by 
the  art-loving  Bishop  Jorge  d'Almeida  (1481-1543).  In  the  adjacent  Gap. 
de  Sao  Pedro  (N.  apse)  is  the  tomb  of  this  bishop,  consisting  of  a  Renais- 
sance retablo,  with  statues  of  aposlles  and  several  reliefs.  —  In  the 
small  chapel  adjoining  the  S.  portal  (Porta  de  Santa  Clara)  are  the  tombs 
of  Biikop  Egos  Fafi$  (13th  cent.)  and  Dona  Bataga^  daughter  of  the  Greek 
Princess  Irene  and  the  Count  of  Ventemiglio.  —  The  Master  of  Aviz  (p.  504) 
was  crowned  as  King  John  I.  in  this  church.  ' 

The  Rua  do  Gabido,  to  the  N.  of  the  cathedral,  ascends  rapidly 
to  the  Romanesque  church  of  SSo  Salvador  fPl.  D,  2;  closed),  built 
in  1169  and  containing  some  interesting  tombs.  Thence  we  ascend 
by  the  Rua  do  Salvador  and  the  (right)  Arco  do  Bispo  to  the  Labgo 
DA  Fbiba  (PI.  D,  2,  3),  on  the  N.  side  of  which  stands  the  S6  Nova 
(PI.  D,  2),  a  late-Renaissance  building  of  1580,  with  a  large  baroque 
facade.  In  the  sacristy  are  a  number  of  old  paintings ,  chiefly  by 
Portuguese  masters.  The  Treasury  (Thesowro  da  8e)  contains  vest- 
ments, hangings,  and  valuable  church-plate  of  the  12-16th  centuries. 
—  On  the  W.  side  of  the  square  lies  the  Papo  Episcopal  (PI.  D,  2,  3), 
rebuilt  by  Bishop  Affonso  de  Castello  Branco  at  the  end  of  the  16th 
century.  The  upper  story  of  the  beautiful  Renaissance  arcade  in 
the  court  commands  a  magnificent  view.  —  On  the  N.E.  this  square 
is  adjoined  by  the  Largo  do  Marquez  de  Pombal  (PI.  D,  2),  with  the 
Natural  History  Museum  and  the  imposing  Chemical  Laboratory. 

From  the  S.E.  corner  of  the  Largo  da  Feira,  near  the  large  weep- 
ing willow  and  the  fountain  with  the  three  masks,  we  proceed  to  the 
La&go  do  Castello  (PI.  D,  3) ,  the  site  of  the  castle  of  Coimbra, 
torn  down  in  1772.  Beyond  this  we  skirt  the  great  arches  of  the 
Aqueducto  de  Sdo  SebastiSo^  built  by  Filippo  Terzi  in  the  reign  of 
King  Sebastian  (1570),  pass  (right)  the  Collegio  Sdo  Bento  (PL  D, 
E,  3,  4;  now  Lyceu  Nacional),  and  reach  the  entrance  (to  the  right, 
behind  the  aqueduct)  of  the  — 

*Jardim  Botanico  (PI.  E,  4),  which  has  been  admirably  laid 
out  by  Director  Goetze  and  serves  in  part  as  a  public  promenade. 
On  the  terrace  on  the  E.  side  rises  a  Marble  Statue  of  Brotero, 

To  the  E.  of  the  Botanic  Garden  lie  the  suppressed  Gonvento  de 
SanfAnna  and  the  Peniteneiaria  (PI.  F,  3,  4).  From  near  the  latter  foot- 
paths (fine  views)  lead  to  the  Penedo  da  Saudade  (^Hill  of  Longing^)  and  the 
Penedo  da  Meditagao  CHill  of  Meditation*). 

We  return  to  the  Largo  do  Castello  and  proceed  to  the  left 
through  the  Rua  do  Infantb  Dom  Augusto  (PI.  D,  3)  to  the  Uni- 
versity, in  front  of  which  a  simple  Monument  to  Camoens  was  erected 
in  1881.  On  the  way  we  pass  the  former  Collegio  de  Sdo  Paulo, 
now  an  Archaeological  Museum. 

The  Umversity  (PI.  C,  D,  3),  officiaUy  styled  Pafo?  Reaes  das 
Escolas,  has  occupied  since  1540  the  site  of  the  old  royal  palace, 
which  was  rebuilt  by  Emmanuel.  The  different  buildings ,  partly 
restored  in  the  17- 18th  cent.,  surround  a  large  quadrangle^  diversified 
with  pleasure-grounds.    On  entering  by  the  so-called  Porta  Ferrea 


570  RouU  62.  COIMBRA.  Santa  Clara. 

(1634)  we  have  the  observatory  (see  below)  to  the  left  and  the  library 
in  front  of  us,  while  to  the  right  is  the  Collegium,  with  the  residence 
of  the  Rector ,  the  lecture-rooms ,  and  a  colonnade  known  as  the 
^Yia  Latina*.  The  large  Sola  dos  Acios^  dating  from  the  time  of 
John  III.,  has  line  azulejos  and  an  artesonado  ceiling.  The  degrees 
are  conferred  with  interesting  ceremonies  prescribed  by  John  I.  in 
1431.  In  another  room,  adorned  with  red  velvet,  carving,  and  gild- 
ing, hang  the  portraits  of  the  rectors,  from  Garcia  d^ Almeida 
(1537)  onwards.  —  The  UrUverfity  Church,  with  an  ^Emmanuel' 
portal,  is  the  old  palace- chapel ,  built  by  Pero  Anes  (d.  ca.  1518). 
—  The  Library  (150,000  printed  vols.)  contains  tbe  books  and  MSS. 
of  the  suppressed  convents  of  8do  Bento,  Santa  Cruz,  Santa  Ritaj  the 
Oraca,  and  others.  —  Magnificent  *View8  of  the  town  and  its  en- 
virons are  obtained  from  the  S.W.  comer  of  the  quadrangle  and  from 
the  tower  of  the  Observatory. 

The  university  consists  of  five  Faculties  (since  1816)  and  is  attended 
by  about  1400  stndenta.  The  teachine  staff  includes  regular  profeasors 
(lentes  de  collegio  or  eathedrdticos)  and  numerous  ^substitutes"  (nibstitutos 
ordinariot  and  extraordinarios).  —  The  students  (esivdantes)  wear  a  black 
coat  buttoned  to  the  neck  and  over  it  a  black  gown;  they  generally  go 
bare-headed,  and  the  bag-like  cap  (gorrOy  supposed  to  represent  the  orig- 
inal beggar's  sack)  which  they  used  to  carry  in  their  hands  has  gone  out 
of  fashion.  In  their  free-and-easy  behaviour  they  resemble  the  students 
of  some  of  the  smaller  university-towns  of  Germany.  —  The  lectures  are 
delivered  from  autumn  till  the  end  of  May,  and  the  next  two  months  are 
devoted  to  examinations.  The  course  for  the  ordinary  degree  of  baeharel 
formado  lasts  five  years.  The  degree  of  douior  takes  another  year  and 
another  examination.    Medical  students  study  eight  years. 

From  the  university  we  ascend  to  the  N.W.  (left)  by  the  steep 
Rua  do  Norte  (PI.  C,  3)  to  the  S^  Velha  (p.  568)  and  thence  de- 
scend the  steps  to  the  Rua  de  Quebra  Costas  (p.  568).  Or  we  may 
turn  to  the  left  at  the  cathedral  and  follow  the  Rua  de  Joaquim  A. 
Aguiar  (PI.  3)  and  the  Rua  da  Estrella  (PI.  C,  4)  passing  the  Hotel 
Continental  (p.  565),  to  the  bridge  over  the  Mondego. 

The  stone  *  Mondego  Bridge  (PI.  B,  4)  affords  an  admirable  view 
of  the  town  and  river.  It  occupies  the  position  of  a  bridge  erected  by 
King  Emmanuel  in  1513,  which  itself  replaced  an  earlier  bridge  of 
Affonso  Henriques. 

On  the  left  bank  of  the  Mondego,  immediately  to  the  left,  stands 
the  Old  Santa  Clara  ConTent,  founded  in  1286 ,  restored  in  1330, 
and  now  half-ruined  and  covered  with  sand.  The  *Porta  de  Rosa' 
recalls  the  legend  of  the  pious  fraud  of  St.  Elizabeth ,  whose  state- 
ment to  her  husband  King  Diniz ,  that  her  gifts  for  the  poor  were 
only  roses,  was  confirmed  by  a  miraculous  transformation.  The 
*Porta  do  Couto'  or  *da  Cadeia'  (chain)  marks  the  limit  of  the  former 
asylum  (p.  564).  —  The  New  Santa  Clara  Convent^  built  in  1649, 
lies  on  the  Monte  da  Esperanca ,  high  above  the  river.  At  the  en- 
trance is  shown  the  chain  from  the  old  convent.  The  church  con- 
tains the  old  late-Gothic  tomb  of  St.  Elizabeth  (14th  cent.)  and  her 
-er  reliquary  (1614). 


Quinia  das  Ldgrimas,       COIMBRA.  62,  RouU,   571 

A  road  diverging  from  the  main  road  to  the  left,  at  the  old  con- 
vent, leads  to  the  (V4  ^0  celebrated  *QTLinta  das  L&grimas,  an 
attractive  park  with  the  Fonte  doa  Amores.  This  was  once  the  resi- 
dence of  the  fair  Inez  de  Castro  and  was  the  scene  of  the  crime 
described  by  Camoens  (Lusiads,  III,  118  et  seq.). 

Inez  (Agnes)  de  Castro,  the  natural  daughter  of  Pedro  Fernandez  de 
Castro,  a  cousin  of  the  King  of  Castile ,  was  one  of  the  maids-of-honour 
in  the  train  of  Constcmga,  daughter  of  the  Duke  of  Penafiel,  who  came  to 
the  Portuguese  court  as  the  bride  of  the  Infcmie  Pedro.  Her  heauty  charm- 
ed the  Portuguese  prince ,  to  whom  she  bore  three  children ,  and  on  the 
death  of  Constanta  (1346)  he  was  privately  married  to  her.  The  Portu- 
guese nobles,  fearing  the  influence  of  the  'Fair  Spaniard'  and  her  cousins, 
persuaded  the  weak  Affonso  IV.  to  consent  to  the  murder  of  Inez.  The 
king  betook  himself,  along  with  the  conspirators,  from  Hontemdr  Velho 
(p.  564)  to  Coimbra,  and  announced  her  fate  to  Inez.  Her  prayers,  sup- 
ported by  those  of  her  children,  made  the  king  waver  in  his  resolve,  but 
the  foul  deed  was  none  the  less  perpetrated  by  his  courtiers  on  Jan.  7th, 
1365,  at  the  above-mentioned  Fonte  das  Amores. 

When  Pedro  heard  of  the  murder,  he  rebelled  against  his  father  and 
devastated  the  country ;  but  a  reconciliation  was  ultimately  brought  about, 
though  with  great  difficulty,  by  the  Archbishop  of  Braga.  On  the.  death 
of  Affonao  (I3ff7)  Pedro  made  a  treaty  with  the  King  of  Castile  and  secured 
the  delivery  of  the  actual  murderers.  Two  of  these,  Alvaro  Gonzalez  and 
Pedro  CoelhOy  were  tortured  and  put  to  death  at  Santarem  (p.  612);  a  third, 
Dioffo  Lopez  Pacheco,  escaped  by  flight.  Pedro  then  summoned  an  assembly 
at  Cantanhede  and  made  a  solemn  declaration  of  the  legality  of  his  mar- 
riage with  Inez.  Her  body  was  exhumed  from  its  grave  in  the  convent 
of  Santa  Clara,  was  crowned  and  placed  on  a  throne,  and  received  the 
homage  of  the  courtiers,  who  kissed  her  hand  (beijamao)  in  the  usual 
manner.  It  is  to  this  ceremony  that  the  words  of  Camoens  refer  (Lusiads, 
HI,  118):  Que,  despot*  de  ser  morta,  foi  Rainha  ('who  did  not  become  queen 
till  after  her  deaih').  The  body  was  then  borne  in  a  litter  by  the  foremost 
nobles  of  the  kingdom ,  accompanied  by  torch-bearers,  to  its  final  resting- 
place  at  Alcoba9a  (p.  554). 

No   one  should  visit  the  Fonte   dos  Amores  without  having  at  hand 
Camoens's  moving  account  of  this  romantic  episode  in  Portuguese  history. 
The   present  name  of  the  fountain  is  found  in  a  legal  document  of  1360. 
Its  waters,  according  to  the  legend,  used  to  bear  secret  letters  from  Dom 
Pedro  to  Inez,  when  she  was  confined  in  the  convent  of  Santa  Clara.    On 
the  oldest  of  the  beautiful  cypresses  that  surrounded  it  were  inscribed  the 
words  ''Eu  dep  sorribra  a  Ignez  formosa''  (I  gave  shade  to  the  beauteous 
Inez);  but  this  tree   died  fifty  years  ago.    A  stone  slab  by  the  fountain 
bears  the  following  verses  by  Camoens  (Lusiads,  HI,  135):  — 
"Mondego's  Daughter-'Nymphs  the  death  obscure 
Wept  many  a  year,  with  wails  of  woe  exceeding; 
And  for  long  mem'ry  changed  to  fountain  pure, 
The  floods  of  grief  their  eyes  were  ever  feeding; 
The  name  they  gave  it,  which  doth  still  endure. 
Revived  Ignfez,  whose  murthered  love  lies  bleeding. 
See  yon  fresh  fountain  flowing  'mid  the  flowers. 
Tears  are  its  water,  and  its  name  *Amore8"\ 

(Burton"*  translation). 

68.  From  Pampilhosa  to  Guarda  and  Villar  Formoso 

(Salamanca^  Medina  del  Campo), 

125  M.  Railway  (one  through-train  daily)  in  about  8  hrs.  (fares  4010, 
3120,  2230  rs.).  The  train  de  luxe  mentioned  at  pp.  561  and  464  is  also  avail- 
able twice  weekly,  and  there  are  local  trains  from  Pampilhosa  to  Mangualde 
and  from  Mangualde  (Wed.  &  Sat.)  to  Guarda.    Passengers  for  Abran* 


572  Route  03,  BUSSACO.  From  Pampilhosa 

(p.  510)  change  At  Guards.  —  There  mre  rmilway-restaarants  only  at  I^m- 
pilhoMa  (good)  and  Villar  Farmoso. 

The  line  to  Upper  Bcira,  continuing  that  from  Figneira  da  Fob  to 
Pampilhosa  (p.  564),  forms  the  shortest  route  from  Lisbon  to  N.  Spain 
(and  Paris).  The  excursion  to  Buttaco^  which  should  not  be  omitted  in 
the  proper  season,  may  be  easily  combined  with  the  journey  from.  Liisbon 
to  Oporto  (R.  61)  by  taking  an  early  train  from  Goimbra  or  Pampilhosa 
to  Luzo  and  returning  to  Pampilhosa  by  the  afternoon-train.  Donkeys 
(400  rs.)  and  carriages  for  the  trip  to  Bussaeo  generally  meet  tiie  trains 
at  Luzo. 

PampilhoBa,  see  p.  564.  —  The  traiu  runs  to  the  N.E.  to  (6^/2  M.) 
Luzo^  the  station  for  the  village  of  Lnso  (H6t  CentnU;  HoU  dos 
Bahhos)^  with  its  chalybeate  spring,  which  lies  1  M.  to  the  S.,  on 
the  N.  slope  of  the  Serra  de  Bussaeo  (1795  ft.). 

A  pleasant  road  ascends  hence  to  the  S.,  through  dense  woods, 
to  the  [2  M.)  *HoM  Bussaeo  (B.  160,  dtfj.  500,  D.  600,  pens.  1500  rs., 
wine  included) ,  the  new  buildings  of  which ,  in  the  Emmanuel 
style  (p.  536),  enclose  the  former  Carmelite  monastery  of  Bus'^acOi 
founded  in  1268.  The  convent  has  a  small  church,  and  the  walls 
of  its  cells  are  lined  with  cork  as  a  protection  against  damp.  It 
lies  in  a  sequestered  spot  amid  the  woods  of  the  Cereal  de  Bussclco, 
and  its  grounds  contain  magnificent  Portuguese  cypresses  (p.  606) 
and  numerous  palms.  The  convent-wood  is  enclosed  hy  a  wall  10  ft. 
high  and  2^4  M.  long.  A  marble  tablet  on  the  old  main,  entrance, 
V4M.  to  the  W.  of  the  convent,  bears  the  bull  of  Gregory  XV. 
(1622),  anathematizing  any  invasion  of  the  property  of  the  monas- 
tery and  forbidding  women  to  approach  it.  A  hull  of  Urban  VIII. 
(1643)  threatens  with  excommunication  anyone  who  injures  the 
trees  in  this  *sacred  forest'. 

A  good  picture  of  Bussaeo  is  given  by  Prince  Lichnowsky,  who  visited 
it  in  1843.  'We  reached  a  long,  high  wall.  The  gate  is  adorned  with 
images  of  death,  and  is  framed  by  skulls  and  bones  formed  by  a  mosaic 
of  black  and  white  stones.  A  small  portal  was  opened  and  we  rode  into 
the  sacred  grove.  One  could  imagine  himself  to  be  amid  the  forests  of 
Lebanon.  Along  winding  paths,  crossed  by  mountain-brooks,  we  rode 
long  under  the  boughs  of  centenarian  cypresses,  which  grow  here  in 
thousands.  Their  trunks  are  entwined  by  thick  ivy,  and  their  huge  branch- 
es overshadow  and  protect  an'  impenetrable  underwood.  With  the  dark 
needles  of  the  cypresses  are  mingled  the  leaves  of  gigantic  planes,  chest- 
nuts, and  evergreen  oaks,  the  long  tassels  of  the  sea-pines,  the  graceful 
crowns  of  the  forest-pines,  and  the  thick  and  gnarled  stems  of  the  cork 
oaks.  The  axe  has  never  been  wielded  within  this  sanctuary.  The  young 
growth  of  all  these  trees  has  formed  a  serried  plantation  at  the  feet  of  their 
venerable  pro °!eni tors,  which  raise  their  heads  majestically  over  the  new 
generation.  The  whole  effect  is  imposing  in  the  highest  degree;  we  feel 
as  if  amid  the  primceval  forests  of  the  Orient.  One  thing  is  certain,  that 
the  convent-wood  of  Bussaeo  has  no  parallel  in  Europe'. 

A  shady  'Route  de  Calvaire'  winds  up  from  the  convent"  to  the 
(V2  hr.)  W.  spur  of  the  hill,  passing  several  ermidas,  with  fine  views. 
The  Fanta  de  Bussaeo^  on  the  seaward  margin  of  the  hill,  marked 
hy  a  stone  cross,  commands  a  magnificent  panorama.  To  the  S.E. 
are  the  denuded  heights  of  the  Serra  da  Estrella ;  to  the  S.,  ensconc- 
ed amid  pleasant  green  hills,  are  Coimbra  and  the  Mondego  valley ; 
to  the  S.W.,  far  below  us,  lies  Pampilhosa,  to  the  W.  of  which  are 


Es^aoC 


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to  ViUar  Formoso.       MANGUALDE.  63.  RouU.  57  J 

extensive  pine-woods,  a  long  chain  of  dunes,  and  the  sea ;  to  the 
N.  are  Luzo,  with  its  railway-bridge,  and  the  Serra  de  Caramullo, 
accompanied  by  various  lower  ranges. 

A  Monument  on  the  S.  slope  of  'grim  Bussaco's  iron  ridge'  (Scott), 
erected  in  1873,  commemorates  the  battle  of  Sept.  27th,  1810,  in  which 
Wellington  drove  back  the  French  army  of  Masslna  on  its  march  towards 
the  sea.  In  the  convent  is  shown  the  room  occupied  by  Wellington  the 
night  before  the  battle. 

Beyond  Luzo  the  Railway  crosses  the  valley  by  a  long  iron 
bridge  and  then  ascends  to  the  E.,  with  the  aid  of  tunnels  and 
viaducts,  to  (22  M.)  Santa  Comba  DSo,  a  small  town,  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Dao,  a  tributary  of  the  Mondejo.  It  is  the  junction  of 
a  branch-railway  to  (31  M.)  Vizeu.  —  We  then  bend  to  the  N.E. 
291/2  M.  Carregal  do  Sal;  32  M.  Oliveirihha;  37  M.  Carmas  de  8m- 
horim,  the  station  for  the  mineral  baths  of  (3  M.)  Caldas  da  Fel- 
gueira  (Grand  H6tel  Club). 

The  railway  now  approaches  the  Mondego.  42  M.  NtUas.  — 
49  M.  Mangualde  (1470  ft.),  a  town  of  4600  inhab.,  with  an  old 
palace  of  the  Counts  of  Anadia  and  the  high-lying  church  of  Nossa 
Senhora  do  Castello.  A  diligence  runs  hence  to  Vheu  (see  above). 

—  5872  M.  Qouvta^  on  the  Mondego,  lies-  9  M.  to  the  N.  of  the 
small  town  of  that  name  on  the  slope  of  the  Serra  da  Estrelta  (6538  ft.). 

—  63  M.  Fomos  dAlgodrea ;  72^/2  M[-  Celorico.  —  The  train  leaves 
the  valley  of  the  Mondego  and  at  (8I72M.)  ViUafranca  das  Naves 
(1778  ft.)  sweeps  sharply  to  the  S.  —  Beyond  (85  M.)  Plnhel  (town 
12  M.  to  the  N.E.)  we  ascend  rapidly  to  — 

97  M.  Quarda  (2655  ft.),  the  station  for  the  poor  little  town  of 
Guarda  (3409  ft. ;  Hot.  Central;  4600  inhab.),  which  lies  3  M.  to  the 
W.,  on  a  bleak  plateau  amid  the  N.E.  spurs  of  the  Serrja,  da  Estrella. 
Guarda,  now  the  see  of  a  bishop,  was  founded  by  Sancho  I.  in  1199 
as  a  'guard'  against  the  Moors.  Its  most  interesting  features  are  the 
old  WallSj  the  Castello^  and  the  Renaissance  Cathedral,  built  about 
1550,  probably  by  Gonsalvo  Torralva  (colossal  retabulo  in  the  choir). 

From  Gnarda  to  AbrarUe4^  see  p.  511. 

■  Our  line  turns  to  the  E.  106  M.  Villa  Fernando;  110  M.  Cerdeira, 

We  cross  the  C6a,  an  affluent  of  the  Bouro,  at  (120  M.)  Freineda 

(2600  ft.),  whence  a  road  leads  to  the  old  frontier-fortress  of  Almeida, 

We  then  descend  to  the  N.E.  to  (125  M.)  Villar  Formoso  (p.  473). 


64.  Oporto. 

BaUway  Stationt.  1.  Estagao  Central  (PI.  E,  3),  Praca  de  Almeida  Gar- 
rett, near  the  Praca  de  Dom  Pedro,  opened  in  1896,  for  all  lines.  — 
2.  Estagao  do  Caminko  de  Ferro  Norte  e  Leste  e  Linha  do  Minho  e  Douro 
(PI.  1, 1,  2),  in  Gampanha,  IV2  M.  from  the  Praca  de  Dom  Pedro,  a  second- 
ary station  for  the  E.  quarters  of  the  city.  —  3.  Eitoiao  de  Oaia  (p.  565), 
a  subsidiary  station  for  the  Pampilhosa  and  Lisbon  line  (R.  61),  available 
only  for  foot-passengers  without  luggage  (wire-rope  railway,  see  p.  574). 
—  4.  Estagao  do  Caminho  de  Ferro  da  Povoa  (PI.  A,  1),  for  the  narrow- 
gauge  railway  to  Pdvoji  de  Varzim  (p.  5ftJ).  —  Cabs  (p.  574)  are  found  at  thQ 


574  Bauued, 


OPORTO. 


Hotels. 


^  ae  xjom  j 
By  Day 

rearu,  jrracii 

At  l^ight, 
before  lam. 

k  aa  jsaukui&. 
At  Kight, 
after  1  a.m. 

"    300  rs. 

400  rs. 

eoors. 

600, 

600, 

800, 

250> 

3()0, 

4oo: 

125, 

iw. 

aoo. 

eoo. 

700, 

900, 

900, 

350, 

460," 

100, 

180, 

240, 

Central  Station  only.    A  tramway  (see  below)  runs  from   the    £.  Station 
to  the  Pra^a  de  Dom  Pedro. 

Kotela  (comp.  d.  &09).  'Obajtd  U&tkl  do  Pobto  (PI.  a ;  E,  3),  Bua  de 
Santo  Catharina  163,  pens.  2000  rs.^  *HdT.  ds  Pans  (PI.  b  ;  D,  ^,  in  the 
narrow  Bua  da  Fabric*,  with  garden;  *HdT.  db  Fbancfokt  (PI.  c;  E,3), 
Kaa  de  Dum  Pedro  21,  with  electric  light,  pens.  IDOO-iSOO  rs.,  wine  extn. 
These  three  are  of  the  first  class.  •—  Less  pretending:  Hot.  Ukiykbsu 
(PI.  d;  F,  8),  Bua  de  Alexandre  Hercolano  289*,  Hot.  Auoax^^  (PI.  e; 
E,  8),  Bua  de  8i  da  Bandeira  63-,  Hot.  Pobtukksb  (PL  f ;  £,  3),  Pra^a  d» 
Batalha  I33j  Hot.  Bbaoav 9a  (PI.  g  \  F,  3),  Bua  de  Entreparedes  61 ;  Hot. 
Amkbica  b  (jbbtbal  (PI.  h;  F,  3),  Bua  de  8So  Lazaro  447. 

Oaf^  (kkfi  Smiuo,  Prafa  de   Dom  Pedro  123,  also  luncheon-rooms; 

C.  CamtmhOj  Pra$a  de  Dom  Pedro  182,  also  beer-house;  C.  Marque*^  in. the 

GrysUl  Palace  (p.  678);  C<nf4  in  the  Campo  dos  Hartyres  da  Patria(p.  577). 

Poat  and  Telegraph  Of  flee  (Correio  e  TeUgrajpho;  PI.  F,  3),    Pra;a  d« 

Batalha.    There  are  a^o  several  branch-offices. 

Oaba  (TVens;  stands  in  the  Pra^  de  Dom  Pedro, 
Pra(a  de  Carlos  Alberto,  and  Bua 
do  Infante  Dom  Henrique). 

Per  drive  (corrida)     .    .     .    ,    . 

Per  hour  (<u  horai)  within  the  city 

Each  Vs  lir.  additional    .... 

Each  V4  hr.  additional    .... 

Per  hour  beyond  the  city   .     .    , 

Each  1/3  Itr*  additional  .... 

Each  V«l^r«  additional    .... 
Hand-baggage  free ;  each  trunk  (mala  grande)  100  rs.  —  If  the   cab  W 
hired  by  time  and  be  dismissed  outside  the  town,  a  return-fare  of  at  lea^i 
300  rs.  must  be  paid. 

Inclined  Bidlwaya  (BUvadort*).  1.  From  the  Avenida  Diogo  Leiu 
(PI.  D,  6)  to  the  Oaia  Statim  (see  pp.  673  and  666).  —  2.  From  the  Caa 
dos  Guindaes  (PI.  E,  F,  4;  adjoining  the  bridge)  to  the  Praca  da  Batalha 
(PI.  E,  F,  3). 

Tramwaya  (Carri*  d$  Ferro;  special  cars  for  ^fumistas'  or  smokers). 
1.  From  the  JB,  Railway  Station  (PI.  I,  1,  2>  by  the  Pra^a  da  Batalha  (PI. 
E,  F,  8),  the  Praja  de  Dom  Pedro  (PI.  E,  3),  the  Prafa  dos  Voluntarios 
da  Bainha  (PI.  D,  3),  and  the  Bua  do  Bosario  (in  returning,  the  Bua  da 
Gedofeita)  to  the  Rotunda  da  Boa  Vitta  (PI.  A,  1).  —  2.  From  the  Poaseto  da 
Cordoaria  (PI.  D,  4)  by  the  Bua  da  Bestaura^So,  Alameda  de  MaasareUos 
(PI.  B,  A,  4,  8),  and  Sao  Joao  da  Fob  (p.  582)  to  Lega  da  Falmeira  (p.  583). 
From  the  end  of  the  Bua  da  Bestaura^So  a  branch-line  runs  by  the  Bua 
da  Alfindega  (PI.  C,  D,  4)  to  the  Rua  do  It^ante  Dom  Menriqve  (PI.  D,  £, 
4,  5).  —  Fare  within  the  city  60  rs. 

Steam  Tramway  (Linha  Ferrea  Americana)  from  the  Rotunda  da  Boa 
Vista  (PI.  A,  1 ;  see  above)  by  the  Fonte  da  Houra  and  SSo  Joao  da  Foz 
to  Mattovinhos  (p.  583).  At  the  Restaurante  da  Cadoufos  (p.  682),  in  SSo  Joao 
da  Foz,  this  line  connects  with  tramway-line  No.  2. 

Steamboat  Lines.  Royal  Mail  Bteam  Packet  Co.  (W.  &  G.  Tait,  Bua  do 
Infante  Dom  Henrique  28)  to  London  and  South  America;  Pacific  Steam 
Navigation  Co.  (Kendall  A  (3o.,  same  street,  No.  39)  for  London  and  South 
America;  Oeneral  Steam  Navigation  Co.  for  London;  North  Oerman  Lloyd 
(agent,  B.  Leuschner)  from  Leixoes  (p.  583)  to  Antwerp  and  Bremen; 
Hamburg  and  South  American  Steam  Packet  Co.  (H.  Burmester);  OldMburg 
and  Portuguese  Steamboat  Co.  (H.  Burmester),  once  weekly  to  Lisbon  (Tan- 
giers)  and  Brake  and  Hamburg;  Neptune  (W.  SttLve),  to  Lisbon,  Antwerp 
and  JSremen. 

Shops  (comp.  p.  xxiii),  chiefly  in  the  Bua  de  Santo  Antonio,  the  R.  de 
Sa  da  Bandeira,  the  B.  dos  Clerigos,  the  B.  das  Flores,  and  the  Largo  dos 
Loyos.  The  whole  W.  side  of  the  B.  das  Flores  is  occupied  by  the  glitter- 
ing shops  of  the  Goldsmiths  and  Jewellers  (p.  680).  Oporto  is  noted  for  iU 
hats  and  gloves  (luvas). 

Bookaellera.    Magalhdes  ds  Monis,  Largo  dos  Loyos  12;  Liwaria  Inter- 


Smation.  OPORTO.  64,  Route,  575 

netcioneU,  Bua  do8  Glerigos  90;  Bwtos^  Baa  de  Almada  lOi.  —  Fhotographi. 
Biel  A  Co.,  Rua  Formosa  342;  Uniao,  Pra^a  de  Santa  Thereza  47. 

Banken.  London  A  Brazilian  Bank,  Rna  Infante  Dom  Henriqne  73; 
Banco  de  Portugal,  Largo  de  SSo  Domingos;  Banco  (kmmercial,  Bua  de 
Ferreira  Borges;  Successor*  o/ Ed.  Katzenstein,  Bua  do  Bellomonte  39;  Mer- 
cantile  Bank  of  Oporto.  There  are  several  Money  Changers  (Cambistas)  in 
the  Bua  das  Flores. 

Wine  Herohantt.    StMve,  RoOus,  LeSo  A  Co.,  Bua  Nova  da  Alfandega; 
J.  W.  Buitnester,  Bua  de  Ferreira  Borges ;  Silva  Jk  Cosem,  Villa  Nova  de  Gaia. 
Druggists  (Fharmdcias).   Lemos  e  Filhos,  Pra^a  de  Carlos  Alberto ;  Birra 
e  Irmao,  Praca  de  Dom  Pedro. 

English  Church  in  the  Campo  Pequeno  (p.  57B);  services  at  11  a.m. 
Cbaplain,  Rev.  T.  8.  Polehampton,  M.  A. 

Consuls.  British,  F.  Hay  Newton,  Passeio  das  Virtudes  23 ;  United  States, 
William  Stave,  Bua  Nova  de  Alfandega.  —  Lloyd's  Agents,  Bawes  ie  Co. 

Theatres  (comp.  p.  517).  iZeal  Theatro  de  Sao  Joao  (PI.  £,  3),  Pra^a 
daBatalha,  built  in  1798,  for  Italian  opera  and  ballets;  Theatro  do  Fnncihe 
Seal  (PI.  E,  3),  Bua  de  &&  da  Bandeira;  Theatro  In/ante  Dom  Affonso  (PI.  F,  3), 
B,ua  de  Alexandre  Herculano,  in  summer  only;  Theatro  Oil  Vicente.,  in  the 
Crystal  Palace  (p.  578),  also  used  for  concerts.  —  Bull  Bing  (comp.  p.  508) 
in  the  Real  Colyseu  Fortuense  (PI.  A,  1),  Botunda  da  Boa  Vista.  —  The 
Feria  de  Sao  Miguel  is  celebrated  in  Sept.  at  the  same  place. 

Chief  Attractions  (IVa  day). .  Ist  Day.  Morning:  Ft-aga  de  Bom  Fedro 
(p.  576);  Campo  dos  Martpres  da  Fatria  (p.  577);  ''Crystal  Falaee  (p.  578); 
Passeio  das  Virtudes  (p.  678);  Rua  do  Bellomonte  (p.  579);  Rua  de  SSo  Joao 
(p.  579; ;  Fraga  da  Ribeira  and  Rua  Cima  do  Muro  (p.  679).  Afternoon :  Fraga 
da  Batalha  (p.  580);  Passeio  das  Fontainhas  (p.  580);  Si  (p.  581);  ^Ponte  de 
Dom^  Luiz  Primeiro  (p.  581) ;  Ifossa  Senhora  da  Serra  do  Pilar  (p.  582J.  — 
2nd  Day.    Excursion  to  Sao  Joao  da  Foz  and  Mattosinhos  (ppi  582,  583). 

Oporto  (^Portuguese  o  Porto  j  *the  harbour'),  an  important  oom- 
meiclal  city  with  150,000 inhab.,  the  see  of  a  bishop,  and  the  capital 
of  a  district,  is  one  of  the  most  beautifully  situated  places  in  the 
Iberian  Peninsula.    It  spreads  oTer  the  slopes  of  the  hills  descend- 
ing abruptly  to  the  N.  bank  of  the  Dou/ro,  while  the  suburb  of  VUla 
'.      NovadeOaia,  with  its  villas,  convents,  grain-elevators,  and  gardens, 
nestles  at  the  base  of  the  similarly  formed  granitic  rock  on  the  S. 
"      shore.    To  the  E.  the  valley  is  hemmed  in  by  perpendicular  walls 
^,     of  granite,  300-330  ft.  high,  but  below  the  Ponte  de  Dom  Luiz  the 
;     river  expands  into  the  harbour  of  Oporto.    Farther  to  the  W.  the 
"      river-banks  become  flatter  and  flatter,  till  the  mouth  of  the  river  is 
J     reached  at  the  cliffs  of  S&o  Jo&o  da  Foz  (p.  582;  comp.  the  Map, 
p.  582).  At  Oporto  the  river-heights  are  interrupted  by  several  deep 
J*     transverse  gorges,  forming  isolated  hills,  now  crowned  with  hand- 
l.     some  edifices.    It  is  with  difficulty  that  the  houses  have   found 
:j;     standing-room  in  these  gorges  and  on  their  steep  sides,  or,  below,  ftn 
iji     the  narrow  margin  of  the  river.  As  at  Lisbon,  they  press  closely  on 
*pl;     and  above  one  another,  forming  architectural  terraces  of  very  pic- 
(sjf    turesque  effect.  The  higher  parts  of  the  city  afford  good  views  of  the 
v«     ocean,  which  is  about  3  M.  off. 

^  Like  Lisbon,  Oporto  is  divided  Into  two  distinct  parts  by  the 

itc  Bio  da  Villa  (now  canalized  and  bridged  over),  which  flows  into  the 
\d  Douro  at  the  Pra^a  da  Ribeira  (p.  579).  The  most  prominent  build- 
^  ing  in  the  E.  portion  is  the  8e  (p.  581),  in  the  W.  the  Victoria 
'^       Church.    The  cathedral  -  Jiill  is  the  oldest  part  of  the  town^  anO 


576  Route  64,  OPORTO.  History. 

W&8  occupied  by  the  Visigoths  and  Moors.  Modern  Oporto  spreads 
over  the  Victoria  hill.  Between  the  two  hills  are  the  husiness-streets 
proper,  beginning  at  the  Praga  de  Dom  Pedro  and  ending  at  the 
river.  Beyond  the  depression  of  the  Quinta  das  Virtudes  the  Vic- 
toria hill  is  continued  by  a  height  which,  with  its  Crystal  Palace 
(p.  678),  recalls  the  Buenos  Ayres  hill  and  Estrella  Church  at  Lisbon. 
The  quarters  of  the  city  on  the  plateau  to  the  N.  of  the  two  main 
hills  are  uninteresting.  ^ 

Oporto  is  as  little  a  town  of  the  past  as  Lisbon ;  its  antiquities 
are  scanty,  and  it  has  few  'lions'  of  any  kind.  But  a  brisk.life  pul- 
sates in  all  its  arteries.  Large  vessels,  dwindling  into  insignificance 
in  contrast  with  the  lofty  granite  banks,  crowd  the  river,  accompanied 
by  the  curious  Bareos  BaheUo,  which  bring  the  wine  firom  the  Palz 
do  Vinho  (p.  586).  The  streets  are  always  full  of  traders  and  of  ox- 
waggons,  toilsomely  transporting  their  wares  to  the  upper  parts  of  the 
town.  The  parks  and  public  pleasure-grounds  are  noted  for  their 
luxuriant  vegetation,  in  which  the  mixture  of  a  northern,  and  a 
southern  flora  is  even  more  noticeable  than  at  Cintra. 

The  name  of  Portugal  (*Portn8  Cales')  is  supposed  to  be  derived  from 
the  old  suburb  of  Cede  (p.  582)  on  the  8.  bank  of  the  Douro,  which  was 
perhaps  a  Roman  settlements.  Other  authorities  derive  the  name  from  the 
French^  who  in  999  rebuilt  the  town,  which  had  been  destroyed  by  the 
Moors  in  820,  and  named  it  Partus  Oattorvm. 

Oporto^  tliough  officially  styled  Ueal  e  invicta  cidade\  has  always  been 
on  the  side  of  the  Opposition,  forming  a  natural  antagonist  to  the  capital 
Lisbon,  just  as  Barcelona  does  to  Madrid.  The  restless  character  of  the 
citizens  is  shown  by  the  rising  of  the  Ma^aroecK  in  1628  against  an  un- 
popular tax,  by  a  similar  rising  in  1661,  by  that  of  1756  against  Pombars 
attempted  monopoly  of  the  wine-trade,  and  by  the  attempt  to  shake  off  the 
French  yoke  in  1807.  In  the  Constitutional  conflicts  of  1820,  1836,  18^ 
and  1846,  the  attitude  of  Oporto  was  always  of  the  greatest  importance. 
In  1832  it  gave  an  enthusiastic  reception  to  King  Pedro  lY.,  who  landed 
at  Mindello  from  Brazil  with  TCOO  men  ('os  sete  mil  bravos')  in  order  to 
defend  the  right  of  his  daughter  Maria  da  Gloria  against  the  Regent  Dom 
Miguel ;  and  as  a  result  the  town  had  to  submit  to  a  wearing  siege  by  the 
Miguelites  (comp.  p.  582). 

Since  then  the  commerce  and  prosperity  of  Oporto  have  greatly  in- 
creased, and  the  native  industries  have  been  able  to  make  a  ^ood  deal 
of  headway  against  what  was  practically  a  British  monopoly.  The  main 
source  of  its  weiJth  still,  however,  remains  the  exportation  of  the  port- 
wine  to  which  it  has  given  name. 

a.  The  West  Quarters  of  the  City. 
The  business-centre  of  the  town  is  formed  by  the  handsome 
Pbaca  db  Dom  Pbdbo  (PI.  E,  3),  which  is  planted  with  trees  and 
has  a  mosaic  pavement  like  that  of  the  Rocfo  at  Lisbon  (p.  521).  On 
the  N.  side  stands  the  Casa  de  Camara^  or  city-hall,  dating  from 
1817.  In  the  middle  rises  a  bronze  Equestrian  Statue  of  Pedro  IV. 
(d.  1834),  Emperor  of  Brazil  from  1826  to  1831,  executed  by  the 
French  sculptor  Anatole  Oalmels  and  erected  in  1866.  In  his  right 
hand  the  king  holds  the  'Lei  Fundamental',  or  constitution  granted 
by  him  in  1826.  The  two  reliefs  of  the  pedestal  refer  to  his  landing 
t  Mindello  (see  aboye)  and  to  the  bringing  of  his  heart  to  Oporto. 


Museu  Municipal.  OPORTO.  ad.  Route,   577 

The  Boa  do  Almada  ascends  from  the  N.W.  corner  of  the  praca  id 
the  church  of  Mosta  Beiihora  da  Lapa  (410  ft. ;  PI.  D,  1),  built  in  1755 
and  containing  a  sandstone  monument  with  the  heart  of  Pedro  IV.  Fine 
view.  —  Adjoining  the  church  is  an  interesting  old  CemeUry^  with  curious 
monuments  and  niche-graves  (p.  210). 

From  the  S.W.  angle  of  the  Pra^a  de  Dom  Pedro  the  steep  and 
animated  Cal^ada  dos  Oltfrigos  ascends  to  the  Igreja  doa  CUrigos 
(426  ft. ;  PI.  D,  3),  built  in  1748  by  the  Italian  Nicolb  Mazzcm, 
The  ciaipella-m6r  is  handsome.  Adjacent  is  the  Torre  dos  ClirigOB 
(246  ft.),  a  granite  structure  erected  in  1765-63  at  the  expense  of 
the  'clergy'  of  Oporto,  and  affording  an  extensive  panorama. 

The  keeper  (sineiro;  fee  200  rs.)  lives  on  the  N.  side  of  the  tower. 
The  ascent  is  comparatively  easy.  Among  the  chief  points  in  the  magni- 
ficent panorama  are  the  twin  towers  of  the  Lapa  Church  to  the  N.  \  the 
valley  of  the  Douro,  the  railway-bridge,  and  the  Serra  de  Marao  (p.  586) 
to  the  E. ;  the  cathedral,  the  Luiz  bridge,  Villa  Nova  de  Gala,  and  the  old 
convent  of  Serra  do  Pilar  to  the  S.  \  the  Crystal  Palace,  the  Douro.  Sao 
Joao  da  Foz,  and  the  ocean  to  the  W.  The  town  lies  at  our  feet  like  a 
relief-plan. 

To  the  N.  of  the  Clerigos  lies  the  Mebcado  do  Anjo  (PI.  D,  8), 
shaded  with  trees  and  much  frequented  in  the  morning.  In  the 
middle  is  a  granite  fountain. 

To  the  W.  of  the  Clerigos  stretches  the  large  ^Jardim  da  Cor- 
doaria  or  Campo  dos  Martyres  da  Patria  (PI.  D,  3,  4),  the  pleasure 
grounds  of  which  afford  a  ravishing  picture  of  the  rich  flora  of  Oporto 
(cafe',  see  p.  574).  The  S.E.  side  of  the  Oampo  is  occupied  by  the 
Tribunal  (court-house)  and  the  Cadeia  da  BelagSo  (gaol)  of  the  18th 
cent. ;  the  S.W.  side  by  the  Casa  de  Roda  (foundling-hospital ;  p.  624) 
and  the  Pra^a  do  Peixe  (fish-market).  To  the  N.W.  is  the  Real  Hos- 
pital de  Santo  Antonio  da  Misericordia;  with  an  Escola  Medica  estab- 
lished in  1883.  To  the  N.E.  is  the  Academia,  with  a  Polytechnic 
founded  in  1877.  —  To  the  N.  of  the  Academy  lies  the  Pra^a  dos 
Vohmtarios  da  Rainha  (PI.  D,  3),  the  name  of  which  ('volunteers  of 
the  queen')  refers  to  the  contests  with  the  Miguelites.  It  has  a'taste- 
ful  fountain  and  is  adjoined  by  the  two  churches  of  the  CarmOj  one 
dating  from  1756  and  the  other  from  1619.  Still  farther  to  the  N.  is 
the  Praga  de  Carlos  Alberto  (PI.  D,  3),  named  after  the  King  of 
Sardinia,  who  abdicated  after  the  battle  of  Novara  (1849)  and  died 
at  Oporto  the  same  year. 

The  RuA  DA  RESTAUBA9io  descends  from  the  Campo  dos  Martyres 
to  the  S.W.  towards  the  Bouro.  In  it,  just  beyond  the  Largo  db 
ViRiATo,  stands  the  Mnsen  Hnnicipal  (PI.  C,  3,  4),  containing  an 
unimportant  collection  of  paintings  (chiefly  copies),  small  anti- 
quities, and  objects  of  natural  history,  established  by  an  Englishman 
named  Allen.    Adm.  daily,  except  Men.,  10-3 ;  catalogue  of  1852. 

Boom  I.  To  the  right:  135.  Claude  Lorrain,  Architectural  piece;  104. 
Fan  Dyck,  Bearing  of  the  Cross  (copy)^  415.  Jean  PillemaU  (Lyons;  1728- 
1808),  Landscape,  87.  Th.  Rombovt$,  Conversation-piece;  82.  Giffoli,  St. 
Francis;  65.  Van  Dyck,  Martyrdom  of  St.  Sebastian  (copy);  35.  Pilltment^ 
Landscape;  28.  Rubens^  Marriage  of  Peleus  (copy).  —  The  cases  contain 
shells,  snakes,  stuffed  birds,  and  the  like. 

Baedekeb's  Spain  and  Portugal.  37 


57S  Boutedd,  OPOSTO.  CrytUd  Palace. 

Boom  II.  To  the  rieht:  269.  Com.  Sehut  uidi>.  Beghan^  Holy  F»mUy 
in  a  wreath  of  flowers ;  266.  Fittement,  Landscape  \  256.  Rubens^  Baising  of 
the  Cross  (copy)}  257.  RtmbouU^  Conversation-piece;  221.  FiUemeiU^  Ship- 
wreck; 216.  Vme.  Camuccini^  Si.  Francis;  168,  160.  Oerman  ScAaoi  (i6th 
cent.),  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds,  Presentation  in  the  Temple  ;  172.  Bibtra^ 
Pieta  (copy);  159.  JHHement^  Landscape;  145.  Sehut  and  Segkers,  St.  Ignatius 
Loyola  in  a  wreath  of  flowers.  —  In  the  middle  of  the  room  are  a  Boman 
sarcophagus,  a  tahle-top  made  of  rare  marblei ,  and  a  yaloable  collection 
of  gems. 

Book  IIL  To  the  right:  361.  aJ9.  Van  Dyck{Jl\  Portraits;  360.  Bom- 
helU^  Choir  of  Capuchins  in  a  Boman  church;  opposite,  297.  BomibeUi^ 
Girls'  school  at  Homes  296.  H.  Bigand^  Portrait.  —  The  cases  contain 
coins,  medals,  fans,  and  miniatures. 

From  the  Largo  de  Viriato  (see  above)  the  Rua  da  Liberdade 
runs  to  the  N.W.,  while  at  the  end  of  it  the  Rua  doTbiumfho  leads 
to  the  left  (W.),  passing  (right)  the  Palaaio  Real  (PI.  C,  3),  to  the 
Raa  do  Palacio  do  Crystal. 

The  ♦Crystal  Palace  (PI.  B,  0,  3,  4;  adm.  60,  on  Mon.  20,  on 
Sun.  and  holidays  100  rs. ;  concerts  on  holidays),  a  large  edifice 
erected  for  the  industrial  exhibition  of  1865,  stands  high  above  the 
Douro  and  contains  a  restaurant ,  ball-rooms,  a  theatre ,  and  some 
shops.  The  Chapel  on  the  S.  commemorates  Charles  Albert  of  Sar- 
dinia (1851;  see  above).  The  S.  portion  of  its  lovely  gardens  af- 
fords a  grand  view  of  the  city,  river,  and  sea,  seen  to  greatest  ad- 
vantage by  evening-light.  To  the  E.  is  a  small  menagerie,  and  beyond 
the  road  (bridge)  is  the  Muuu  Industrial  e  Commercial. 

From  the  Crystal  Palace  we  may  follow  the  Rua  da  Boa  Nova  to  the 
K.E.  to  the  triangular  Campo  Peqdeko  (PI.  C,  2,  3),  in  the  S.W.  comer  of 
which  is  the  gate  (ring;  fee  100  rs.)  of  Ihi  Cemiterio  dos  Inglttes^  laid  out 
in  1817  and  conteining  the  EnglUh  Church  (St.  James's).  —The  Boa  da 
Cabvalhosa  runs  hence  to  the  N.  to  the  interesting  Romanesque  church 
of  Sao  Hartinho  de  Oedofeita  (PI.  C,  1,  2).  The  name  ('cito  facta')  refers 
to  an  earlier  church,  which,  according  to  the  story,  Theodomir,  King  of 
the  Snevi,  who  had  been  converted  from  Arianism,  'hurriedly'  erected  on 
this  site  while  the  relics  of  St.  Martin  of  Tours  were  on  their  way  to 
Oporto.  .The  present  church  dates  from  the  12th  cent.,  but  its  interior  has 
been  entirely  modernized.  The  capitals  of  the  columns  inside,  as  well  as 
of  those  in  the  W.  portal  (Romanesque)  and  N.  portal  (early-Gk>thic),  de- 
serve attention. 

A  few  yards  farther  on  the  Rua  da  Carvalhosa  ends  at  the  Rua  da  Boa 
Vista  (PI.  B-D,  1).  Following  this  towards  the  W.,  we  pass  (right)  the 
Hospital  Militar  de  Dom  Pedro  Quinto  (18G2;  PI.  B,  1)  and  reach  the  Rotunda 
da  Boa  Vista  (PI.  A,  1;  p.  582).  To  the  left  are  the  Bull  Bing  and  the  Ce- 
miterio de  Agramonte^  containing  a  large  monument 'to  the  victims  burned 
in  a  theatre  in  1888.  —  Tramway  to  the  Praya  de  Dom  Pedro,  see  p.  574. 

From  the  Largo  de  Viriato  (p.  577)  the  Rua  dos  Foguetbiros 
(PI.  D,  3,  4)  leads  past  the  (right)  flower-show  of  the  Real  Com- 
panhia  Horticolo-Agricola  (adm.  free),  and  high  above  the  ravine  of 
Virtudes  (p.  576),   to  the  attractive  Fasseio  das  Vlrtades  (PI.  C, 

D,  4),  which  affords  a  fine  view  of  the  Crystal  Palace ,  the  Douro, 
and  the  ocean.  —  The  short  Rua  das  Virtudes  leads  hence  to  the 

E.  to  the  Rua  do  Galvario,  containing  the  house  (tablet)  in  which 
'he  novelist  Almeida  Oarrett  (1799-1854)  was  born.    Hence  we  de- 
end  to  the  Rua  das  Taypas  (PL  D,  4). 


Sao  Franeiaeo.  OPORTO.  64.  Route.   579 

The  RuA  DO  BsLLOMONTE  (PI.  D,  4),  at  the  S.  end  of  the  Rua 
das  Taypas,  marks  the  beginning  of  the  oldest  part  of  Oporto,  with 
its  quaint  balconied  houses,  most  of  which  are  covered  with  coloured 
tiles.  To  the  E.  we  see  the  high-lying  cathedral  and  bishop's  pal- 
ace ;  to  the  right,  across  the  Douro,  is  the  railway-viaduct. 

From  the  La&qo  db  Sao  Dominoos  (PI.  D,  4)  we  descend  to  the 
S.E.  through  the  handsome  Rua  de  Sao  Joao  (PI.  D,  4),  the  chief 
business-street  of  Oporto.  It  was  constructed  in  1765  to  connect 
the  Ribeira  for  'bank')  with  the  upper  town  and  crosses  the  Rio  da 
Villa  (p.  675)  by  a  viaduct. 

To  the  right  opens  the  Rua  do  Infante  Dom  Hbnbique  (PI.  E, 
D,  4),  formerly  named  the  Rua  doa  IngUzes^  with  banks,  wholesale 
houses,  and  steamboat'Offlces.  The  upper  stories  are  often  supported 
by  huge  granite  brackets.  The  corner-house  to  the  right  is  the  so- 
called  English  Factory  House  (Assoeia^So  Britannica),  an  impos- 
ing building  erected  by  William  Whitehead  in  1785  and  now  used 
as  a  kind  of  club  (ball-room,  library,  etc.).  —  To  the  N.  of  this 
street,  on  a  small  hill,  lies  the  church  of  — 

8§U>  Trancisco  (Pl.D,  4),  a  Gothic  Basilica  of  1410,  with  a  large 
rose-window.  The  interior  contains  some  elaborate  gilt  wood-carving 
of  the  17-1 8th  cent,  and  the  graceful  Renaissance  monument  of 
Francisco  Brandao  Pereira  (d,  1528).  —  Adjoining  the  church,  on 
the  site  of  a  Franciscan  convent  burned  down  in  1832,  is  the  Ex- 
chaxige  (BoUa)^  with  a  bold  glass  roof  over  the  court,  a  handsome 
staircase,  and  a  fine  hall  decorated  in  the  Moorish  style. 

In  the  subarb  of  Miragaia^  a  little  to  the  W.  of  the  Franciscan  church, 
is  the  ancient  church  of  8ao  Pedro  (PI.  D,  4),  said  to  occupy  the  site  of 
the  original  cathedral  of  Oporto  ^  it  was  substantially  rebuilt  in  the  17th 
century.  Not  far  off  is  the  large  Alfdndega  (PL  G,  D,  4),  or  custom-house 
(business-hours  9-3),  connected  by  railway  with  the  E.  Station. 

We  now  descend  to  the  Douro  by  the  Rua  de  Sio  Joao,  or  direct 
to  the  S.E.  from  the  Franciscan  church  by  the  Travessa  de  Slo  Nicolau. 
Interesting  popular  types  may  be  studied  in  the  Pbaca  da  Ribeiba 
(PI.  E,  4)  and  in  the  Rua  Cima  do  Muro,  which  runs  along  on  a 
level  with  the  roofs  of  the  houses.  Even  more  interesting,  however, 
than  the  quaint  medley  of  longshoremen  and  ox-carts  or  than  the 
mediaeval-looking  houses  with  their  projecting  gables  is  the  ♦View 
of  the  magnificent  Bridge  of  Dom  Luiz  (p.  581),  the  iron  girders  of 
which  enclose  the  landscape  as  in  a  frame.  In  the  background  is 
the  railway-bridge  (p.  565). 

From  the  quay  we  now  return  to  the  Largo  de  Sao  Domingos 
see  above).  A  little  higher  up,  on  the  left  side  of  the  Rua  das  Flobbs 
~^1.  D,  E,  4),  lies  the  church  of  Noasa  Senhora  da  Misericordia,  re- 
built in  1750.  In  the  secretaria  of  the  adjoining  Santa  Caaa  is  a 
celebrated  picture  of  the  Fountain  of  Life,  attributed  to  Grao  Vasco, 
but  really  by  some  Flemish  master  unknown.  —  The  sarcophagus  in 
JYont  of  the  church  contains  the  bones  of  the  ^martyrs'  executed  in 
1828  during  the  regency  of  Dom  Miguel. 

37* 


(S€ 


580  Bcuie  64,  OPORTO.  8do  Ldzaro. 

The  Rna  das  Flores  is  second  in  importance  to  the  Raa  de  Sao 
Joto  alone.  On  the  left  side  are  the  shops  of  the  QoldmiUhs,  on  the 
right  those  of  the  Cloth  Dealers. 

Oporto  is  CamoQS  for  its  *  Geld  and  Silver  Wares,  chiefly  consistiDe  of 
large  and  bemvy  omamenta  for  the  well-to-do  peasantry  of  Kinho  and  the 
Pais  do  Vinho  (p.  566).  Some  of  them  are  in  filigree  work,  others  consist 
of  plates  of  gold  beantifiilly  enamelled  in  blue,  white,  and  pink.  The 
patterns  are  curioiu  and  often  resemble  tho«e  of  the  Moors.  Among  the 
most  characteristic  pieces  are  the  earrings  (often  8-9  inches  long)  and  the 
^hearts'  (corofffes)  worn  on  broad  chains  across  the  breast.  The  silver 
purses  and  the  enamelled  brooches  form  convenient  sonvenirs  for  visitors. 

From  the  Rua  das  Flores  we  may  return  to  the  Pra^a  de  Dom 
Pedro  either  across  the  Largo  dos  Loyos  (PI.  E,  3)  or  by  the  Pra<;a 
de  Almeida  Garrett  (PI.  E,  3).  In  the  latter,  formerly  called  the 
Feira  de  Sio  Bento,  is  the  new  proTisional  Central  Station  (p.  573). 

b.  The  East  Quarten  of  the  City.  The  Sonth  Bank  of  the  Booro. 

From  the  top  of  the  Rua  db  Santo  Antonio  (PI.  E,  3),  which 
ascends  from  the  S.E.  corner  of  the  Pra^a  de  Dom  Pedro,  we  obtain 
an  unexpectedly  fine  view  along  the  line  of  the  Cal^ada  dos  Clerigos 
(p.  577).  Following  the  tramway-line  towards  the  S.  (right),  we 
pass  the  church  of  Sdo  Ildefonso  (PI.  E,  F,  3),  a  handsome  baroque 
structure  approached  by  a  flight  of  steps.  Beyond  this  lies  the  JFVaf  a 
da  Batalha  (PI.  E,  F,  3),  an  attractive  square  with  a  mosaic  pave- 
ment. To  the  left  is  the  Post  Office  (p.  574),  to  the  right  the  Opera 
House  (p.  575).  In  the  centre  is  a  Statue  of  Pedro  V.  (1853-61), 
erected  in  1862. 

Following  the  tramway  to  the  N.E.,  through  the  Ruas  Entre- 
pardes  and  the  SHo  Lazaro,  we  reach  the  Jardim  de  Sdio  L&zaro 
(PI.  F,  3),  the  beautiful  grounds  of  which  are  adjoined  on  the  N.E. 
by  a  secularized  Capuchin  convent,  now  containing  the  PwftWciifcrart/ 
(founded  by  Peter  IV. ;  150,000  vols.)  and  the  Athbneu  Dom  Pedro. 
The  collections  of  the  latter  include  some  unimportant  ancient  and 
modern  pictures,  a  few  plaster -casts,  a  tablet  of  Limoges  enamel 
with  26  scenes  from  the  life  of  Christ  (16th  cent),  the  sword  of 
King  Aflfonso  Henrique  (?),  and  other  relics. 

The  tramway  continues  to  run  to  the  N.E.  through  the  Ruas  do  Heroismo, 
do  Freixo,  and  da  Estayao,  to  the  E.  Railway  Station  in  GampanhS  (p.  673). 
—  The  Rua  do  Freixo  leads  to  the  Palaeio  do  Freixo.  a  baroque  building 
of  the  17th  cent.,  with  a  beautiful  garden,  situated  high  above  the  Douro, 
2  H.  to  the  E. 

From  the  S.  W.  corner  of  the  Jardim  de  Sio  Lazaro  the  Rua  das 
FoNTAiNHAS,  passiug  the  Asylo  de  Mendicidade  (poor-house ;  PI.  F^ 
G,  3),  leads  to  the  *PasBeio  das  Fontainhas  (PI.  F,  4),  a  pleasant 
promenade  high  above  the  Douro,  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the 
river,  the  S.  shore,  the  two  bridges,  and  the  Serra  de  Marao. 

A  little  to  the  E.  is  the  Seminario  (PI.  H,  3, 4),  which  played  an  im- 
portant rdle  in  the  capture  of  Oporto  by  Wellington  (p.  582).  To  the  N. 
of  it  extend*  the  Cemiterio  do  Prado  de  Repowo  (PI.  H,  3). 

From  the  W.  end  of  the  Passeio  das  Fontainhas  we  tarn  to  the 


Ponte  de  Bom  Luiz  I,      OPORTO.  6d.  Boute.   581 

right  to  the  Labgo  da  PoLicfA  (PI.  E,  F,  4),  where  are  some  re- 
mains of  the  old  City  Wall^  with  its  towers.  Hence  we  follow  the 
AvBNiDA  DB  Saraiva  BE  Cabvalho  (PI.  E,  4),  which  descends,  mak- 
ing a  sharp  hend,  to  the  Ponte  de  Dom  Luiz  (see  helow).  To  the 
left  of  this  street  is  the  Gampo  da  Santa  Clara,  containing  the  church 
of  Santa  Clara  (PI.  E,  4),  which  resemhles  Sao  Francisco  (p.  679) 
in  its  elahorate  carving  and  gilding.  Instead  of  descending  to  the 
river,  we  follow  the  Rua  Cha,  which  leads  in  a  straight  direction 
from  the  above-mentioned  bend  and  ascends  to  the  cathedral. 

The  SA  (PI.  E,  4),  which  lies  on  the  apex  of  the  E.  hill,  on  the 
site  of  the  old  castle  of  the  Suevi,  was  originally  a  Romanesque 
building  of  the  12th  cent.,  afterwards  rebuilt  in  the  Gothic  style, 
and  lastly  almost  wholly  modernized  in  the  17-18th  centuries.  The 
exterior  is,  however,  still  imposing,  mainly  on  account  of  the  iron- 
grey  granite  of  which  it  is  entirely  composed.  Characteristic  features 
are  the  two  low  doors,  the  central  tower,  and  the  rose-window  on  the 
W.   We  enter  the  church  from  the  W.  by  a  sort  of  platform. 

The  Intekiob  offers  little  of  interest.  The  red  and  white  marble  floor 
is  generally  covered.  In  the  handsome  CapeUa-Mdr  there  stood,  down  to 
1843,  the  sarcophagus  prepared  in  the  reign  of  Emmanuel  for  St.  Panta- 
leon,  the  tutelar  of  the  city. 

The  Gothic  *Cloi8tbss,  to  the  S.  of  the  cathedral  (entr.  from  the  S. 
aisle),  with  their  granite  vaulting  and  richly  articulated  pillars^  date  from 
1385.  The  window-opening  between  each  two  pillars  is  subdivided  by  two 
coupled  columns.  In  the  middle  of  the  quadrangle  rises  a  high  granite 
cross.  The  walls  are  adorned  with  mosaics  of  blue  and  white  azulejos, 
with  realistic  representations  from  Ihe  Song  of  Solomon  and  explanatory 
inscriptions  from  the  Vulgate  (middle  of  the  18th  cent.).  —  Visitors  should 
ascend  the  handsome  granite  staircase  on  the  S.  side,  in  order  to  view  the 
cloisters  from  above.    The  walls  here  are  covered  with  azulejo-mosaics. 

The  Sacriity^  to  the  E.  of  the  cloisters,  has  a  Holy  Family  of  the  17th 
cent.,  wrongly  ascribe^  to  Raphael. 

From  the  W.  front  of  the  cathedral  we  proceed  to  the  S.  to  the 
large  Po^qo  Episcopal  (18th  cent.),  which  contains  a  fine  staircase. 

We  now  descend  by  the  Avenlda  de  Saraiva  de  Carvalho  to  the 
**Fonte  de  Dom  Luiz  Frimeiro  (PI.  E,  F,  4,  5  j  toU  5  rs.),  which 
crosses  the  Douro  in  a  single  arch  of  560  ft.  span,  surpassed  in 
Europe  only  by  the  bridge  over  the  Danube  at  Cernavoda  (span  of 
central  arch,  626  ft.).  There  are  two  roadways,  one  33  ft.  above  the 
river,  the  other  200  ft.  The  strain  is  supported  by  two  huge  towers 
on  the  bank,  surmounted  by  strong  iron  frame-work.  The  bridge 
was  constructed  by  a  Belgian  company  (Soci^t^  des  Constructions 
de  Willebroeck)  and  is  perhaps  the  most  beautiful  structure  of  the 
kind  in  Europe.  The  upper  roadway  affords  a  superb  view  of  the 
city  and  the  valley  of  the  Douro. 

The  tourist  visiting  Oporto  seldom  obtains  any  just  idea  of  the  de- 
structive violence  that  the  Douro  is  capable  of.  In  the  time  of  the  winter 
rains  (Jan.  and  Feb.),  the  avenidas  or  cfieicu  (from  the  Latin  plenum)  often 
form  veritable  avalanches  of  water,  raising  the  river  20  ft.  above  its  ordin- 
ary level,  flooding  the  Ribeira  and  the  Villa  Ifova,  and  sometimes  snap- 
ping the  cables  of  large  sea-going  vessels.  In  1860  great  devastation  wp" 
wrought  in  the  Douro  valley  by  an  inundation  of  this  character. 


EnvironB.  OPORTO.  64,  RouU.   583 

Travellers  •  should  alight  here,  if  for  no  other  reason,  to  look  at  the 
singular  *Bar  of  tJu  Douro.  The  only  navigable  channel  is  close  to  the 
right  bank,  the  rest  of  the  entrance  to  the  river  being  occupied  by  danger- 
ous reefs  (partly  removed  by  gunpowder)  and  by  a  spit  of  sand  projecting 
from  the  8.  bank.  The  river  is  here  engaged  in  a  never-ending  struggle 
with  rock  and  sand  and  ocean-waves.  A  breakwater,  named  the  Canta- 
reira^  enables  even  large  vessels  to  enter  the  river,  except  during  freshetst 
or  in  stormy  weather}  but  the  passage  is  never  entirely  free  from  danger 
and  may  not  be  attempted  without  a  pilot.  —  The  boats  of  Foz  are  curious. 
There  are  three  recognized  varieties:  the  Eiate^  the  high-prowed,  canoe- 
like boats  of  Ovar  (p.  665),  and  the  Rosea,  with  its  three  stumpy  masts 
and  lateen  sails. 

From  Foz  the  tramways  run  to  the  N.W.  along  the  Ptaia^  with 
its  sandy  bathing-coves  separated  by  black  cliffs.  On  the  sand- 
strewn  ridge  to  the  right  stand  a  long  row  of  villas  and  lodging- 
houses,  the  pilot-station,  and  a  small  lighthouse  f'^aroZ^.  Farther 
on  is  the  Ccutello  do  Queijo, 

5  M.  Mattosinhos  (Hdtel  Novo  Lishonense;  H6tel  de  Francisco 
Ariz)  is  preferable  to  Sao  Joao  as  a  bathing-place  on  account  of  its 
sandy  beach.  It  lies  on  the  much-besung  Xcpa,  on  the  bank  of 
which  rises  a  statue  of  the  poet  Passos  Manoel. 

Mattosinhos  is  famous  for  the  miracle-working  Crucifijo  in  the  church 
of  Bom  Jems  d«  Bougas,  which  annually  draws  about  30,000  pilgrims  from 
all  parts  of  Portugal.  This  crucifix ,  one  of  four  wooden  figures  of  Our 
Lord  carved  by  Nicodemus,  floated  all  the  way  from  Joppa  to  Portugal, 
landing  on  May  3rd,  117,  at  Leixoes  (see  below),  on  the  site  now  occupied 
by  the  chapel  of  Notse  Senhor  de  Areia  (sand).  On  the  way  it  lost  an 
arm,  which  was  found  50  years  later  by  a  woman  gathering  firewood  on 
the  beach. 

On  the  right  bank  of  the  Le^a,  connected  with  Mattosinhos  by 
a  long  iron  bridge,  lies  Le9a  da  Falmeira  (H6t.  Estephania ;  Hot. 
Central),  the  terminus  of  the  tramway,  a  clean  little  place  with 
many  attractive  villas. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  Le^a,  between  the  two  villages,  is  the  Porto 
de  Leixdes,  a  harbour  240  acres  in  extent,  formed  in  1883-90  by  the 
construction  of  two  breakwaters,  5240  ft.  and  3766  ft.  in  length.  It 
is  to  be  connected  with  Oporto  by  railway. 

From  Opobto  to  P6voa  de  Vabzim,  18  M.,  railway  in  IV2  hr.  (fares 
540,  338  rs.).  —  This  narrow-gauge  line,  starting  from  the  Estag&o  do 
Caminho  de  Ferro  da  Pdvoa  (p.  673),  runs  to  the  N.  along  the  coast.  4  M. 
Ciatoiat;  12  M.  Mindello;  16  M.  Villa  do  Conde.  —  18  M.  F6voa  de  Yarzim 
(Hotels),  a  fishing- town  with  12,460  inhab.,  is  one  of  the  most  frequented 
sea-bathing  resorts  in  Portugal.  —  Hence  to  Famaligdo,  see  p.  584. 

65.  From  Oporto  to  Braga. 

33  M.  Railway  {Unhas  do  Minho;  8  trains  daily)  in  2V2  hrs.  (fares 
1030,  800,  570  rs.).  There  are  two  additional  local  trains  itom  Nine  to 
Braga.    Trains  start  from  the  EstagSo  Central  (p.  573). 

Oporto,  see  p.  673.  The  train  stops  at  the  Esta^do  do  Caminho 
de  Ferro  Norte  (p.  673)  and  runs  to  the  N.E.  3  M.  Rio  Tinto.  — 
6*/2  M.  Ermezinde  (322  ft^  is  the  junction  of  the  line  to  Fuente  San 
Est^an  (Salamanca;  R.  66).  We  cross  the  Le^a  and  turn  to  the  N. 
—  10  M.  Sao  Romao.  —  141/2  M.  Trofa. 


584   Rouuea.  BRAOA.  From  oporto 

Fbom  Tbofa  to  OuzmabXbb,  21  H.,  railw»f  in  i^/tia.  —  The  chief 
intermediate  station  is  (1611.)  Vittlla  (hotels),  with  warm  sulphur  springs 
(90-12(f  Fahr.),  known  to  the  Romans  and  used  both  for  drinking  and 
bathing.  —  21  M.  Ouimaries  iOrande  Hotels  well  spoken  of),  the  oldest 
eity  of  purely  Portiunese  origin  in  the  kingdom,  lies  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  Ave.  Pop.  8000.  OuimarSes.  was  the  birthplace  of  Affonso  Hen- 
riques  (1110^),  the  first  King  of  Portugal  (comp.  p.  504).  In  1127  Bgas 
Honiz,  the  tutor  of  the  young  prince,  prevailed  upon  Alfonso  VII.  of 
Castile  to  raise  the  siege  of  Guimaraes  by  promising  that  Affonso  would 
submit  to  the  Spanish  sovereign.  Affonso  afterwards  refused  to  ralify 
this  submission;  and  Kgas  Honiz  surrendered  himself  and  his  family  to 
Alfonso  VII.,  who,  however,  refused  to  take  advantage  of  this  loyal  self- 
sacrifice.  The  collegiate  church  of  No$»a  Senhora  da  Oliveira^  built  by 
Joao  I.  (ca.  1390),  still  possesses  some  fine  features  in  spite  of  its  modern- 
ization; and  its  beautiful  Ootiiic  tower  is  practically  intact.  The  impos- 
ing and  well-preserved  mediseval  *  Castle  (fine  view),  the  Town  Wall*,  and 
other  remains  are  also  interesting.  —  Citania  (see  p.  585)  is  8-10  H.  from 
GuimarSes. 

Beyond  Trofa  tbe  train  continues  [to  ran  towards  the  N.  20  M. 
Villa  Nova  de  Famal^So  is  the  junction  of  a  branch-line  to  (18  M.) 
Vovoa  de  Varzim  (p.  683). 

241/2  M.  Nine  is  the  point  where  the  branch-railway  to  Braga 
leaves  the  main  line. 

The  main  line  continues  to  run  towards  the  N.,  passing  (32  M.  from 
Oporto)  Barcellos,  (51  M.)  Vianna  do  CmUIIo  (Brit,  vice-consul),  and  (65  M.) 
Caminha^  and  reaching  the  frontier  at  (80  M.)  Valenga  do  Minho  (5  hrs.  from 
Oporto ;  fares  2460,  1920,  1370  rs. ;  railway-restaurant),  a  fortified  town  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  MinhOy  connected  by  a  bridge  with  (1  M.)  the  Spanish 
town  of  Tu!f  (see  p.  493).  Between  I^ine  and  Valenca  the  train  passes 
through  a  continual  succession  of  orchards,  vineyards,  corn-fields,  and 
groves  of  cork-trees. 

The  Braga  line  runs  to  the  N.E.,  passing  the  two  small  stations 
of  (28  M.)  Arentim  and  (30  M.)  Tadim, 

33  M.  Braga  (682  ft.;  Hot.  Franqueira;  Hot.  Central;  cafes 
in  the  Campo  8.  Anna),  the  third  city  of  the  kingdom  (23,000  in- 
hab.)  and  the  see  of  an  archbishop  who  is  titular  Primate  of  Portu- 
gal, lies  on  an  elevated  plain  near  the  river  Cdvado.  It  is  now  a 
prosperous  industrial  town,  manufacturing  felt  hats,  jewellery, 
cutlery,  and  firearms.  Its  streets  are  wide,  and  it  is  still  surrounded 
by  walls  and  towers. 

Braga  was  the  Roman  Bracara  Attgusta^  and  in  the  6th  cent,  was 
the  capital  of  the  JSuevi.  Later  it  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  Goths  and 
the  Moors,  being  taken  from  the  latter  by  Alfonso  of  Castile.  It  played 
a  very  .important  rdle  in  the  early  history  of  the  Portuguese  kingdom, 
and  was  the  seat  of  the  court  before  the  capture  of  Coimbra  and  Lisbon. 

The  principal  building  in  Braga  is  the  Cathedral,  originally 
erected  at  the  beginning  of  the  12th  cent,  but  rebuilt  in  the  late- 
Gothic  period  and  disfigured  with  modern  alterations,  especially 
in  the  interior.  The  W.  portal  is  a  fine  example  of  transitional  Gothic, 
and  there  is  a  Romanesque  door  on  the  S.  side.  In  the  capella-mor 
^  are  the  tombs  of  the  Gonde  Henrique  and  Dofia  Theresa,  father  and 
mother  of  the  first  King  of  Portugal  (see  above);  and  in  the  Gap.  de 
NossA  Senhora  do  Sacramento  is  that  of  Archbp.  Looren^o  de  Lou- 
inha,  who  took  an  active  part  in  the  battle  of  Aljubarrota  (p.  565). 


to  Braga.  BRAGA.  65.  BotOe,   585 

The  oaken  stalls  in  the  coro  alto  are  a  good  specimen  of  cinqneeento 
carving.  Among  the  relics  in  the  sacristy  are  the  chalice  said  to 
have  heen  used  at  the  christening  of  Affonso  Henriques  (p.  584), 
and  another  of  the  16th  cent.,  of  gold,  in  the  form  of  a  tower  with 
bells.  —  To  the  N.E.  of  the  cathedral  is  the  Archiepiscopal  Palace, 
containing  a  good  library  and  portraits  of  the  Archbishops  of  Braga. 

The  church  of  Santa  Cruz  has  a  fine  facade  (1642),  and  that  of 
St.  Benedict  (1616)  contains  some  excellent  azulejos.  —  On  the  S,  side 
of  the  large  Campo  Santa  Anna  is  the  Public  Library,  with  many  rare 
books  and  MSS. 

About  3M.  to  the  E.  of  Braga  (tramway  from  the  rail,  station; 
fare  250  ra.)  is  the  famous  pilgrimage-church  of  *Bom  Jesus  do 
Monte  (18o0  ft),  beautifully  situated  on  the  crest  of  a  hill  and 
commanding  a  magnificent  view.  In  ascending  the  hill  we  pass 
several  small  chapels  and  oratories,  and  at  the  top  are  several  other 
chapels.  The  principal  church,  which  is  very  plain,  contains  a  huge 
wooden  altar-piece  with  lifesize  figures,  a  few  portraits,  and  a  beau- 
tiful crucifix  of  ebony  and  ivory.  This  spot  is  visited  at  Whitsuntide 
by  many  thousands  of  pilgrims.  There  are  two  fair  Hotels  near  the 
church;  and  those  who  make  any  stay  at  Braga  may  find  at  one  of 
these  pleasanter  quarters  than  in  the  city  itself.  —  The  ascent  may 
be  continued  to  (1 Y4  M. ;  road)  the  top  of  the  Monte  Samdro  (2535  ft.), 
where  there  is  another  shrine.  The  *View  is  more  extensive  than 
that  from  the  Bom  Jesus. 

Bxcorsions.  Braga  is  a  good  centre  from  which  to  explore  the  province 
of  Minfio,  the  scenery  of  which,  with  its  woods  and  hills  and  luxuriant 
vegetation,  is  said  to  be  the  most  beautiful  in  Portugal.  —  A  favourite 
excursion  is  that  to  Valestqa  via.  Fonts  do  Lima  (ca.  90  M.  %  carriage-road). 
At  Ponte  do  Lima  (inn)  the  road  crosses  the  2/tma,  by  a  long  bridge  of 
24  arches.  The  Romans  named  this  lovely  district  the  'Elysian  Fields', 
and  they  called  the  river  *Lethe\  because  its  charms  were  supposed  to 
make  the  traveller  forget  his  own  home  and  country.  Valenga^  see  p.  584. 
—  Other  excursions  may  be  made  to  the  frequented  springs  of  Caldas  do 
Gerez  (1500 ft.;  hotels),  which  lie  about  25M.  to  the  X.E.  (road),  delight- 
fully situated  on  the  slopes  of  the  Serra  do  Oerez;  to  Arcos  de  Yalle  de  Vez, 
20  M.  to  the  K.,  from  which  the  Ovteiro  Major  (7780  ft.) ,  the  highest 
mountain  in  Portugal,  may  be  ascended  in  5  hrs. ;  to  Vianna  (p.  534) ;  and 
to  Chaves,  50  M.  to  the  IT.E. 

About  10  M.  to  the  8.E.  of  Braga,  on  the  small  hill  of  S.  Romao,  is 
the  mysterious  buried  city  of  Oitania,  now  supposed  to  be  of  Celtic 
origin.  The  remains  consist  chiefly  of  singular  round  structures  of  granite, 
15-30  ft.  in  diameter.  A  full  account  of  them  is  given  in  Oswald  CraufurcTs 
'Portugal  Old  and  New\ 

66.  From  Oporto  to  Faente  San  Estiban  (Salamanca, 
Medina  del  Campo). 

174  H.  Railway  (one  through-train  daily)  in  ca.  12  hrs.  (farea  SO  p.  15, 
28  p.  13,  15  p.  17  c);  to  Salamanca  (209  H.)  in  ca.  14  hrs.,  to  Medina  del 
Campo  (257  M.)  in  ca.  iO^/*  hrs.  A  local  train  also  runs  from  Oporto  to 
Regoa,  and  on  Sat.  there  is  a  so-called  express  (7  hrs.)  to  Barea  d^Alva. 
Carriages  are  changed  and  luggage  examined  at  Fregeneda  (in  the  reverse 
direction  at  Barca  tTAIva).    There  is,  however,  one  through  carriage  fo' 


586  RouU  66.  REGOA.  From  Oporto 

AmWcIms  p«8Miic«r0.  —  Tbere  em  Bimple  railway-reaUunnto  at  Fr^gwtda 
and  Fmante  San  Biiebtmy  and  poorly  anpplied  refreahmeni-coimten  at  Regoa 
and  Barca  d'Alva. 

The  Journey  throagh  the  fertile  Talley  of  the  Douro  ia  very  attract- 
ive«  eapeclally  between  PeUla  and  CopelUnhat.  The  wild  beauty  of  the 
rocky  valley  of  the  Agueda  ia  hardly  paralleled  elaewhere  in  the  Iberiaa 
Peninsula.    Beat  viewa  to  the  right. 

From  Oporto  to  (6V2  M.)  Ermezinde  (320  ft.),  the  junction  for 
the  N.  Portugal  lines,  see  p.  583.  Our  line  now  leaves  the  well- 
tilled  hill-district  of  Oporto  and  runs  to  the  S.E.  across  the  Sara  de 
VdUongo^  a  desolate  range  of  slate  mountains,  supporting  nothing 
save  heather  and  a  few  pines.  Near  (10  M.)  Vallongo  are  old  anti- 
mony and  silver  mines.  —  Beyond  (I6V2  M.)  Recarei  the  train 
ascends  to  the  N.E.,  through  the  pleasant  valley  of  the  Souza,  passing 
several  small  stations.  A  good  deal  of  wine  is  produced  here,  the 
vines  heing  usually  trained  on  trees  or  on  trellises  (ramoda ;  Ital. 
pergola).  —  26*/2  M.  Meinedo, 

We  now  ascend  rapidly  towards  the  E.  to  (28  M.)  Caide.  In  the 
foreground  appears  the  8erra  de  MarSo  (4666  ft.),  beyond  which  lies 
Traz  OS  Montes.  —  32  M.  Villa  MeS,  in  a  wide  valley  watered  by 
the  Odrea.  The  train  follows  the  Odres  to  (34  MJ  Livrct^So  and 
crosses  the  green  Tamega  by  an  iron  ^Bridge,  184  ft.  above  the 
stream.  It  then  descends  to  the  S.E.,  vik  (37^2  M.)  Marco  and 
(4OV2  M.)  Juneal,  into  the  valley  of  the  Douro,  here  enclosed  by 
lofty  wooded  hills.  —  4272  M.  Palla,  high  over  the  right  bank  of 
the  Douro.  The  valley  here  is  rich  in  vines,  olives,  oranges,  figs, 
and  other  varieties  of  a  southern  vegetation.  —  49  M.  Arigoa,  with 
sulphur-baths  (140®  Fahr.) ;  6272  M.  Ermida,  charmingly  situated 
in  a  side-valley.  Several  other  small  stations.  Beyond  (61  M.)  Mo- 
ledo,  with  alkadine  springs,  the  valley  expands. 

64  M.  Begoa  or  Peso  da  Regua  (Buffet)^  a  small  town  prettily 
situated  on  the  vine- clad  slopes,  a  little  below  the  mouth  of  the 
Cargo,  is  the  centre  of  the  Pcuz  do  Viriho, 

The  Paiz  do  Vinho ,  the  home  of  Ihe  nobleat  vintages  of  port-wine 
(p.  676),  embracea  this  part  of  the  valley  of  the  Douro  and  the  hilly 
country  on  -both  sides  of  the  Gorgo  as  far  K.  aa  Villa  Seal.  The  soil  ia 
yellow- brown  mica-achist.  The  vinea  are  trained  on  short  stakea  and  grow 
on  ateep  terraces,  oiten  painfully  built  up  out  of  the  stony  soil  by  the  mat- 
tock of  the  industrious  'Gallegos'  (Galiciana);  they  require  careful  attention 
throughout  the  whole  year.  —  The  vintage  lasts  from  the  end  of  Sept  till 
the  second  half  of  October.  The  wine  is  taken  to  Oporto  partly  by  rail- 
way and  partly  by  the  river.  The  curious  Bareot  RabeUo  used  for  this 
purpose  are  flat-bottomed  barges  with  an  enormous  rudder;  and  it  re- 
quires no  little  skill  to  pilot  them  safely  past  the  innumerable  reefs, 
ahallows,  and  rapids  of  the  Douro.  The  better  aorta  of  wine  are  kept  at 
Oporto  two  years  before  being  sent  to  England,  Brazil,  Germany,  and 
other  countries.  Host  of  the  wine-merchanta  are  Engliah  or  Gterman.  The 
average  price  of  a  pipe  of  wine  C115  gallons)  is  about  80-35/. 

The  valley  now  contracts.  We  cross  the  Gorgo  by  an  iron  bridge 
600  ft.  long.   Beyond  (69  M.)  Covellinhas  the  mountain-slopes  be- 
come barren,  and  vines  and  olives  are  seen  but  occasionally.  — 
bove  (74  M.)  FerrOo  are  the  notorious  rapids  of  Caehuea  and  Olho 


to  Fumte  San  Estiban.    FREGENEDA.  66.  Route.   587 

de  Cahra.  We  cross  the  Pkihao.  79  M.  Pirihdo.  Beyond  (86  M.) 
S&o  Mamede  de  Tua  we  cross  the  Tua  by  a  five-arched  Iron  hridge, 
696  ft.  in  length. 

87  M.  Tna,  the  .innction  of  a  branch-line  to  (34  M.)  MirandeUa; 
the  town  lies  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Douro. 

The  valley  now  contracts  to  a  rocky  ravine.  The  train  crosses  the 
Douro  by  a  bridge  with  seven  arches,  1366  ft.  long.  —  92  M,  Ferra- 
doza.  On  a  hill  to  the  left  Is  a  small  waterfall.  Beyond  (95  M.) 
.Vargellaa  are  three  tunnels  and  several  viaducts.. —  98  M.  Vesuvio, 
with  vines,  orange-trees,  and  olives.  Beyond  (102  M.)  Freixo  the 
railway  penetrates  the  mountain  by  four  tunnels.  —  107  M.  Pocinho 
lies  in  a  wide  valley  among  groves  of  blue  gum-frees  and  olives. 
Farther  on  we  skirt  the  Douro,  and  beyond  (112  M.)  C6a  we  cross 
the  stream  of  that  name.   Two  small  stations. 

124  M.  Barca  d'Alva  (486  ft. ;  Buffet),  the  Portuguese  frontier 
station,  lies  at  the  point  where  the  Agueda^  here  forming  the  bound- 
ary, flows  into  the  Douro. 

The  train  ascends  to  the  plateau  of  Leon  along  the  right  bank  of 
the  Agueda,  thrQugh  a  wild  rocky  •Gorge,  intersected  by  numerous 
fountain- torrents.  Tunnels  (17  in' all),  embankments,  and  viaducts 
follow  each  other  in  rapid  succession.  Not  a  tree,  not  a  human 
habitation  interrupts  the  wUdemess  of  rock. 

1'36  M.Tregeneda  (Rail.  ReataurantJ^  the  Spanish  frontier-station 
and  the  first  place  in  the  province  of  Salamanca,  is  loftily  situated 
on  the  barren  delta  formed  by  the  Douro,  Agueda,  and  Yeltes.  — 
We  now  traverse  the  treeless  but  corn-growing  plateau  of  Leon, 
p"assing  several  unimportant  stations. .  Beyond  (159  M.)  Villavieja 
the  Yeltes  is  crossed.    169  M.  Boada. 

174  M.  Fuente  San  Esteban,  and  theUce  to  Medina  del  Canvpo, 
see  pp.  472-464, 


LUt  of  Artuti. 

The  following  list  comprises  the  more  important  artists  mentioned  in 
the  Handbook.  Abbreviations:  A.  =  architect,  P.  =  painter,  8.  =  scalptor. 
The  artiflts  who  are  not  denoted  by  an  additional  word  (Flem.  =  Flemish, 
Ger.  =  German,  It.  =  Italian,  Port.  =  Portuguese,  etc.)  are  Spaniards. 
The  figures  separated  from  the  dates  by  a  dash  refer  to  the  pages  of  the 
Handbook. 


AUfMt,  Juan  <fe,  A.,  ca.  1613. 
Aleman,  Juan  Femandez^  S.,  15th  cent. 

—  xlix,  Ixv. 

— ,  Mietr  CrUtdbal,  P.,  ca.  1504. 
— ,  Rodrigo,  8  ,  16th  cent.  —  xlix. 
Aletio^    Mateo    Perez   de   (da   Lecee)^ 

It.  P.,  d.  1600. 
Aletsandro^  Dom.  di,  see  Fancelli. 
Al/aroy  Franc,  S.,  end  of  15th  cent. 
Alfonso,  Rodrigo,  A  ,  end  of  14th  cent. 
Algardiy    Aleuandro,    It.  8.  and  A., 

1602-1664.  -  Iv. 
Almtdina,   Ferrando  de.   P.,   end   of 

15th  cent.  —  Ixix. 
Alvares,  Josi,  S.,  1768-1827.  —  Ixii. 
AmUret,  Franc.  de^'V.  andS.,ldth  cent. 

—  Ixvi. 

Aneheta,  Miguel  de,  8.,  end  of  16th  cent. 

—  Iviii. 

Anes,    Pero  (Pedro  Annee),  Port.  A., 

d.  after  1518.  —  570. 
Angelico  da  Fiesole,  Fra  Oiov.,  It.  P., 

1387-1465. 
Antolinez,  Franc.,   P.,   16U-n00.  — 

Ixxviii. 
— ,  Josi,  P.,  1639-76.  —  Ixxxii. 
Aparicio,  JoU,  P.,  17731838. 
Aprile,  Ant.  Maria  de  (de  Charona), 

It.  8.,  16th  cent.  —  li. 
Aquilis,  Julio  de.  It.  P.,  16th  cent.  — 

Ixvii. 
Arbasia,  Ceear  de,  It.  P.,  d.  1614.  — 

Ixxlii. 
Arellano,  Juan  de,    P.,  1614-76.   — 

Ixxxii. 
Aritmendi,  Basque  S.  —  Ixii. 
Arphe  (or  Ar/e),  Ant.  de,  silversmith, 

ca.  1520-77.  —  Iv. 
— ,    Enrique   de,     Ger.    silversmith, 

father  of  the  preceding,  ea.  1470- 

1560.  —  Iv. 
— ,  Juan  de,  silversmith,  bom  1533. 

—  Iv. 

Badajoz,  Juan  de,  S.  and  A.,  16th  cent. 

—  liv. 

BartoUmU,  Maeetre,  S.,  ca.  1278. — xl  vi. 


Ba$k);  Victor^  Port.  8..  1822-94. 
Bayeu,  Franc.,  P.,  1734-95.  —  Ixxxiii. 
Beearra,  Oaepar,  8.,  1520-70.  —  Ivii. 

Iviii.  Ixvii. 
Belles^  ChUUterme  de^  Port.  P. ,  15th  cent. 
BelUni,  Oiov..  It.  P.,  1426-1516. 
Belmonte,  Mariano,  P.,  d.  1864. 
BengoecKea,  Anibroeio  de,  8.,  16th  cent. 

—  Iviii. 

Benlliure,  JoU,V. ,  bom  1855.—  Ixxxi  v. 
— ,  Mariano,  modern  S.  and  P. 
Bermejo,  Bart.,  P.,  ca.  1490.  —  Ixxiii. 
Berruguete,^  Alomo,   A.,  S.,   &nd  P.. 

ca.  1480-1561.  —  1.  liv.  livii. 
— ,  Pedro,  father  of  the  precedine.  P., 

d.  ca.  1500.  —  Ixvi,  ^"     ' 

Blee,  Hendrik  de  (Civetta),  Flem.  P., 

ca.  1480- after  1521. 
Bocanegra(Fray  Atanaeio),  P.,  d.l688. 

—  Ixxiii. 

Bol,  Ferd.,  Dutch  P.,  1616-80. 
Bombelli,  Sebaetiano,  It.  P.,  1635-1724. 
BorgoSia,  Juan  de,  P.,  d.  ca.  1533.  — 

Ixvi. 
— ,  Phil,  de  (Filipe  Yigami),  brother 

of  the  preceding,  A.  and  8.,  d.  1543. 

—  1.  lii. 

Botch,  Hieron.  van  Aken,    Flem.  P., 

1462-1516. 
Bourguignon,  see  Gourtois. 
Boutaea,  Port.  A.,  d.  before  1528.  — 

5a6. 
BouU,  Dierick,  F\em.  P.,  1400?- 1475. 

—  Ixiv. 

Brouwer,  Adriam,  Flem.  P.,  ca.  1606- 

38. 
Brueghel,  Jan,  the  Elder,   Flem.  P., 

15fe-li25. 
— ,  Pieter,  the  Elder,  Flem.  P.,  ca. 

1520-69. 
Bruges,  Carlos  de,  Flem.  P.,  ca.  1568. 
Bueras,  Simon  de,  8.,  16th  cent. 

Cabezalero,  Juan,  P.,  1633-73.  —Ixxxii. 
Canibiaso,  Luca,  It.  P.,  1627-86.  — 

Ixvii. 
Camilo,  Franc.^  P.,  1686-71.  —  Ixxxii. 


LIST  OF  ABTISTS. 


589 


CampaHa  (de  Kempeneer)^  Pedro^  Flem. 

P.,  1503-80.  —  Ixvii,  Ixxiii. 
Ceanpero^  Juan,  A.,  16th  cent. 
Canwceini,  Vine.,  It.  P    1773-1844. 
Cano,  Aloruo^  P.  and  S.,  1601-67.  — 

Ix.  Ixxii.  Ixxiii. 
Ccmova,  Ant.,  It.  S.,  1757-1822. 
Caravagaio,  Michelangelo  Amerighi  da. 

It.  P.,  1569-1609. 
Cardueho  (Carducci),  Bart.,  It.  A.,  8., 

and  P.,  1560-1608.  —  Ixvii. 
— ,   Vine.,  brother  of  the  preceding. 

It.  P.,  1578(?)-1638.  —  Ixviii. 
Carmona,  Luis  Salvador,  9.,  1709-67. 

—  Ixi. 

Carraeci,  Annibale,  It.  P.,  1560-1609. 
Carrdlo,  Juan,  de  Miranda,  P.,  1614- 

85,  —  Ixxxii. 
Casado  del  AUsal,  Joi4,  P.,  1532-86. 
CattaHeda,  Juan  de.  A.,  16th  cent. 
CattayU,  Maettre  Jaime,  8.,  ca.  1375. 

—  xlvi. 

Caetello,  Fabrieio,  It.  P.,  d.  1617. 

Castilho,  Diogo  de.  Port.  A.,  16th  cent. 

— ,  Jo&o  de,  brother  of  the  preced- 
ing, Port.  A.,  ca.  1490-1681.  —  536. 

Castillo,  Ant.  del.  P.,  1603-67.  —Ixxii. 

— ,  Juan  del,  P.,  1584-1640. 

Castro,  Joaquim  Machado  de,  Port.  8., 
1736-1828. 

— ,  Juan  Sanchez  de.  P.,  1454  1516.  — 
Ixv. 

Caviedet,  de,  modem  P. 

Cellini,  Benvenuto,  It.  S.  and  gold- 
smith, 1500-1572.  —  Iv. 

Cerezo,  Mateo,  P.,  1686-75.  —  Ixxxii. 

Ceroni,  Giov.  Ant.,  It.  S.,  17th  cent. 

Ciepedee,  Pablo  de.  P.,  1638-1608.  — 
Ixxiii. 

Chatranez,  Nic,  S.,  16th  cent. 

Churriguera,  S.,  d.  1725.  —  Ix. 

Cigoli,  Luigi  Cardi  da,   If.  P.,  1559- 

Cincinnati,  Romulo,  It.  P.,  d.  ca.l600. 

—  Ixvii. 

Claude  Lorrain  (Gellie),  French  P., 

1600-1682. 
Coello,  Alomo  Sanchez,  P.,  1513  (V)  90. 

—  Ixviii. 

— ,  Claudio,  P.,  163?-93.  —  Ixxxii. 
Cologne,  Johann  of  (Juan  de  Colonia), 

Ger.  A.,  15th  cent.  —  xliii, 
— ,  Simon  of,  son  of  the  preceding, 

d.  before  1512.  —  xliii.     . 
Copin,  Diego,  Dutch  S.,  16th  cent.  — - 

liii. 
Cordoba,  Pedro  de.  P.,    ca.  1476.  — 

Ixxii. 
Correa,  Diego,  P.,  16th  cent.  —  Ixvi. 
Correggio,  Ant.  Allegri  da,  It.  P.,  ca. 

Corte,    Nic.    da.    It.    S.,    16th    cent. 

—  Hi. 


Cotdn,  Juan  Sanchez,  P.,  1561-1627.  — 

836. 
Courioie,   Jacques  (Bourguignon), 

French  P.,  1621-76. 
Covarrvbias,  Alonso  de.  A.,  16th  cent. 

—  1.  liii. 

Coxcie,  Michiel  van,  Flem.  P.,  1499-1592. 

Cranach,  Lucas,  the  Elder,  Ger.  P.. 
1473-1553. 

— ,  — ,  the  Younger,  son  of  the  preced- 
ing, Ger.  P.,  1516-86. 

Cristus,  Petrus,  Flem.  P.,  4444-72. 

Cruz,  Diego  de  la,  8.,  end  of  15th  cent. 

— ,  Pantoja  de  la.  P.,  1561-1610.  — 
Ixviii. 

Dalmetu,  Luisde,  P.,  ca.  1445.  — Ixi  v. 
Dancart,  Maestre,   A.  and  8.,   end  of 

16th  cent.  —  xlviii. 
David,   Geraeri,   Flem.  P.,   ca.  1450- 

1523.  —  Ixiv. 
Degrain,  Ant.  MtAoz.  modem  P. 
Delgado,  Pedro,  8.,  16th  cent.  —  lixj 
Dello  fiorentino.  It.  P.,  d.  after  1366. 

—  Ixiii. 

Dolci,  Carlo,  It.  P.,  1616-86. 

Dolfin,  Maestro,  Flem.  glass-painter, 
16th  cent. 

Domenichino  (Domenico  Zampieri),  It. 
P.,  1581-1641. 

Domingues,  Affonso,  Port.  A.,  d.  be- 
fore 1402.  —  556. 

Donoso,  JosS  XinUnes,  P.  and  A.,  1628- 
90 

Duck,  Jacob  Ant.,  Dutch  P.,  1600-1660. 

DUrer,  Albr.,  Ger.  P.,  1471-1528. 

Dyck,  Ant.  van,  Flem.  P.,  1599-1641. 

Egas,Annequin  de,  Flem.  S.,  15th  cent. 

—  xlviii. 

— ,  Ant.,  Flem.  S.,  16th  cent. 

— ,  Enrique  de,  Flem.  S.,  d.  1634.  — 

xlviii.  1.  lii. 
Elsheimer,  Adam,  Ger.  P.,  1578-1620. 
Escalante,  Juan  Ant.,  P.,  1^0-70.  — 

Ixxxii. 
Espinosa,    Jacinto   Jerdnimo   de.    P., 

1600-1680.  —  Ixx. 
Evora,  FernSo  de.  Port.  A.,  d.  after 

1473.  —  656. 
Eyck,  Jan  van,  Flem.  P.,  after  1380- 

1440.  —  Ixiii. 

Fcmcelliy  Domenico  di  Alessandro,  It.  S., 
d.  1518.  -  li. 

Femandes,  Matheus,  the  Elder, Fort.  A., 
d.  1515.  —  566. 

— ,  — ,  the  Younger,  Port.  A.,  d.  1528. 
-556. 

Fernandez,  Ale  jo.  P.,  16th  cent.  — 
Ixv.  Ixxii, 

— ,  Aleman  Juan,  brother  of  the  pre- 
ceding, P.,  16th  cent.  —  Ixv. 


590 


LIST  OF  ARTISTS. 


Fernamdez,Ariat,V.,  d.  1684.— IxxxU. 
tlandu.  Arnao  de,  Flem.  glass-painter, 

d.  1567.  —  Uvii. 
— ,  Juan  d4  (Flamenco),   Flem.  P., 

16th  cent.  — -  Ixiv. 
FlorenHno,  JTic,  It.  P.,  16th  cent.  — 

Ixiii. 
Fornuni,  Damian,  8.,  d.  1633.  —  Ivi. 
Fortune,    Mariano^   P.,   1838-74.   — 

Ixxxv. 

Oaitua,  Mortin,  A.  and  S.,  d.  1666.  - 

liii. 
Gallego,  Juan,  A.,  16th  cent. 
QalUgoty  Fernando,  P.,  1475-1550.  — 

Jxiv. 
Galofri  p  Coma,  JoU,  P.,  d.  1877.  — 

Ixxxiv. 
Gamiz,  Pedro  Lopez  de,  8.,  16th  cent. 

—  Iviii. 
Gand,  Olivel  de,  Flem.  S.,  16th  cent. 
Garcia^  Alvar  de.  A.,  11th  cent. 
Garofalo,   Benvenuto   Tut  da.  It.  P., 

1481-1569. 
Gazini,  Pace,  It.  S.,  16th  cent.  —  li. 
Giordano,  Lvea,  It.  P.,  1632-1706.  — 

Ixxxii. 
Giorgione  (Giorgio  Barbarelli),  It.  P., 
.  1477(?)-1510. 
Giehert,  Ant.,  modern  P. 
Gomez,  Alvar,  A.,  15th  cent. 
Goya,  Franc.,  P.,  1746-1828.  — Ixxxiii. 
Granello,  Nic,  It.  P.,  d.  1593. 
Gwu,  Juan,  Flem.  A.,  15th  cent. 
Qiurcino,  it  (Giov.  Franc.  Barbieri), 

It.  P.,  1590-1666. 
Guillen,  Diego,   S.,  ca.  1526.  —  liii. 

Iviii. 
-T-,  S.,  ca.  1566.  —  Iviii. 
Gumiel,  Pedro,  8.,  d.  ca.l516.  —  xlviii. 

Haifa,  Rodrigo  &nd  Martin  de,  8.,  end 

of  16th  cent.  —  Iviii. 
Seem.  Jan  Davidtzoon  de,  Dutch  P., 

1606 -ca.  83. 
Hernandez,  Gregorio,  S.,  1566-1636.  — 

lix. 
— ,  Jerdnimo,  S.,  1586-1646.  —  lix. 
— ,  Rodrigo,  A.,  16th  cent. 
Herrera,  Franc,  the  Elder  (el  Viejo), 

P.,  ca.  1576-1656.  —  Ixix.  396. 
— .  — ,  the  Younger  (el  Mozo),  P.,  1622- 

85.  —  Ixxvii. 
— ,  Juan  de,  A.,  ca.  1530-1597. 
—  Bamuevo,  Sebariiano  de,  1619-71.  — 

ixxxiii. 
Holanda,    Alberto   de,    Dutch    gla^s 
.  painter,  16th  cent. 
— ,  Juan  de,  Flem.  P.,  16th  cent.  — 

Ixiv. 
Holbein,  Ham,  the  Younger,   Gee.  P., 

1497-1643. 

ntiOon,  Jwm  Gil  de,  A.,  d.  1681. 


Hontofhn,  Rodrigo  Gil  de,  son  of  the 
preceding,  A.,  16th  cent. 

Joanee,  Juan.,  see  Macip. 

Jodo.  Mestre,  Port.  P.,  d.  1528. 

Jordaene,  Jakob,  Flem.  P.,  159S-1678. 

Jordan,  Ett4ban,  S.,  1543-1603.  —  lix. 

Juana,  Juan,  see  Macip. 

Juni,  Juan  de,  S.,  d.  ca.  1586.  —  lix. 

Juvara,  Fil.,  It.  A.,  1L86-1735. 

Lara,  GonzaUt  de.  A.,  1788-1827. 
Leonardo  da  Vinci,  It.  P.,,  S.,  and  A., 

1452-1519. 
— ,  Josd,  P.,  1616-56.  —  Ixxxii. 
Leoni,  Leone,  It.  8.,  1509-92.  —  Iv. 
— ,  Pompeo.  It.  S.,  son  of  the  preced- 
ing, d.  1610.  —  Iv. 
Leopardi,Alea»andro,  It.  S.,  1480-1540. 
Llanos,  Ferrando  de.  P.,  end  of  15th 

cent.  —  Ixix. 
—  y  Valdis,  Sebastian  de,  P.,  d.  after 

1668.  —  Isxvii. 
2a>o.   Louis  Michel  van,    French   P., 

1707-71.  —  Ixxxiii. 
Lopes,  Christovdo,  Port.  P.,  1516-1606. 
Ludwig,  Joh.  Friedrich  and  Joh.  Peter, 

Germ.  A.,  18th  cent.  —  550. 
Luiui,   Bernardino,   It.   P.,    1470  CO - 

1530  (?). 
Lusitano,  see  Hattos. 

Machuca,  Pedro,  A.,  d.  1550.  —  Hi. 
Macip,  Vicente  (Juan  Joanes),  P.,  1523- 

79.  —  Ixx. 
Madrazo,   Josi  de,  P.,   1781-1869.   — 

Ixxxiv. 
— ,  Federigo  de.  P.,  1815-94.  —  Ixxxiv. 
Maeda,  Juan  de.  A.,  16th  cent,  —337. 
Maella,  Mariano  Salvador,    P.,  1739- 

1819.  —  Ixxxiu. 
Mantegna,  Andrea,  It.  P.,  1431-1506. 
Maratta,  Carlo,  It.  P.,  1625-1713. 
March,  EsUban,  P.,  d.  1660.  —  Ixxi. 
Marguvete,  Pedro  Arbulo,  S.,  16th  cent. 

—  Iviii. 

Marmolejo,  Pedro  Villegas,  P.,  1520-97. 
Mateo,  Maestre,  S.,  d.  after  1188.  — 

xlvi. 
Matos,  Franc,  de,  S.,  16th  cent. 
Matsvs,  Quinten,  Flem.  P.,  ca.  1466- 

1531.  . 
Mattos,  Franc.  Vieira  de  (Lusitano), 

Port.  P.,  1699-1783. 
Ma»ner,  Alexander,  Ger.  P.,  16th  cent. 

—  Ixvii. 

Mayno,   Fray  Juan  BauHsla  de.  P., 

1569-1649.  -  Ixxii. 
Mazo,  Juan  BauHsta  del,  P.,  1630-87. 

—  Ixxxi. 

Mazzolino,    Lod.,    It.  P.,    ca.   1681- 

ca.  1530. 
Memling,  Hans,  Flem.  P.,  ca.  1430-96. 


LIST  OF  ARTISTS. 


591 


Mena,  Alonto  de,  S.,  cs.  1633. 

— ,  Jwm  de,  S.,  1707-84. 

— ,  Pedro  de,  S.,  d.  1693.  —  Ix. 

Mengt,  Ant.  Rc^hael,  Ger.  P.,  1728-79. 

—  Ixxxiii. 

Mercadante,  Loreneo  de  BretcAa^   8., 

16th  cent.  —  xlvii. 
Meuina,  AnUmello  da.  It.  P.,  d.  ca. 

1493. 
Michelangelo  BwmctrrotL  It.  8.,  P.,  and 
.     A.,  1476-1564. 

Mignewd,  Fierre,  French  P.,  1610-95. 
Miffuel  Florentine  It,S.,  16th  cent.  —  1. 
Millauy  Pedro,  8.,  end  of  15th  cent.  — 
.    xlix. 
Monegro,  Juan  BatUisCa,  8.  and  A.,  d. 

1621. 
MookAit,  Juan  Martinet,  8.,  d.  1649. 

—  lix.  395. 

More.  Sir  Antony.  Netherland.  P.,  ca. 

1512-ca.  1576.  —  Ixviii. 
Mora,  JoU  de,  8.,  1638-1725.  —  Ix. 
— ,  Juan  Gomez  de.  A.,  d.  1597. 
Morales,  Luis  de.  P.,  ca.  1509-86.  — 

Ixvii.  458. 
Morel,  Bart.,  8.,  16th  cent.  —  Iv. 
Morlanes,  Diego,  8.,  16th  cent.  — Ivii. 
Moya,  Pedro  de.  P.,  1610-66.  —  Ixxiii. 
Mudo,  el,  see  Navarrete. 
MiMot,    aebastian,    P.,   1654-90.    — 

Izxxii. 
Murillo,  BartolonU  Estihan,  P.,  1617- 

82.  —  Ixxiv-lxxvii.  395.  419. 

Nurdi,  Angela,  It.  P.,  ca.  1601-60.  — 

Ixviii. 
Navarrete,  Juan  Fernandez  (el  Mudo), 

P.,  1526  79.  —  Ixviii.  110. 
Ifeef*,  Peeter,  the  Elder,  Dutch  P.,  ca. 

i577-ca.  1657. 
Neer,  Aert  van  der,  Dutch  P.,  1603-77. 
Nieolau,  Meetre  (o  Francie),  8.,  16th 

cent. 
Niculoeo,  Franc,  It.  faience-painter, 

16th  cent.  —  xlix. 
Nola,  Giov.  Merliano  da.  It.  8.,  1488- 

1558.  —  Iv. 
Nu%ez,  Juan,  P.,  15th  cent. 

Ordofiez,  BartolonU,  8.,  d.  1520.  —  li. 
OiTente,  Pedro.  8.,  ca.  1570-1644.   — 

Ixxi. 
Ortiz,  Pablo,  8.,  end  of  15th  cent.  — 

xlviii. 
Oeorio,  Meneeez,  P.,  d.  after  1700.  — 

Ixxvii. 
Ottade,  Adriaen  van,  Dutch  P.,  1620-85. 

Pacheeo,  Franc.,  P.,  1571-1654.  —  Ixvii. 

Ixxviii. 
Palma  Giovane,  Giaeotno,  It.  P.,  1644- 

ea.  1628. 


Palomino,   Ant.,    P.,    1658-1726.    — 

Ixxxiii. 
Pareja,  Juan,  P.,  1606-70.  —  Ixxxi. 
PuUnir,  Joachim,  Plena. P.,  d.  ca.l524. 
Penni,  Giov.  Franc.  (ilFattore),  It.  P., 

1488-1528. 
Pereda,  Ant.,  P.,  1599-1669.  —  Ixxxii. 
Pereira,  Manuel,  8.,  d.  1667.  —  Ixi. 
Perez,  Pedro,  A.,  d.  1285.  —  130. 
Pillemont,  Jean,  French  P.,  1728-1808. 
Pinturicchio  (Bernardino  Betti),  It.  P., 

1455-1613.  —  Ixx. 
Polo,  Diego,  P.,  1620-56.  —  Ixxxii. 
Portuenee,  see  Taborda. 
PovMsin,  me.,  French  P.,  1594-1665. 
Pradat,  Juan  Garcia  de.  A.,  16th  cent. 
Pradilla.,  Franc,  P.,  horn  1847.  — 

Ixxxiv. 
Pfado,  Bias  del,  P.,  ca.  1640-ca.  1600. 

—  Ixvii. 

Raphael  Sanzio  da  Urbino,  It.  P.  and 

A.,  1483-1520. 
Rembrandt  Harmensz  van  Rit'n,  Dutch 

P.,  1607-69. 
Resende,  Garcia  da,  A.,  d.  1520. 
Ria»o,  Diego  de,  8.,  d.  1533.  —  liii. 
RibaUa,  Franc,  P.,   1551(?) - 1623.  — 

Ixx..  247. 
— ,  Juan  de,  son  of  the  preceding,  P., 

1597-1628.  —  Ixxi. 
Ribera,  Andris  de,  A.,  16th  cent.  — 

liii. 
— .  Jusepe  (lo  Spagnoletto),  P.,  1583- 

1656.  —  Ixxi. 
Rigaud,  Myacinthe,  French  P.,  1659- 

1743. 
Rincon,  Antonio  del.  P.,  1446-1500.  — 

Ixiv. 
Rizi,  Franc,  P.,  1608-86.  —  Ixxxii. 
— ,  Fray  Juan,  P.,  1595-1676.  —Ixxxii. 
Rodriguez,  Alonso,  P.,  16th  cent.  —  466. 
Roelas,  Juan  de  las.  P.,  ca.  156(>-1625. 

—  Ixix.  895.  421. 

Roldan,  Luisa,  S.,  1656-1704.  —  Ixi. 
— ,  Pedro,  8.,  1624-1700.  —  lix. 
Romano,  Giulio  (G.  Pippih  It.  P.  and 

A.,  1492-1546. 
RombouU,  Theodor  van,  Netherl.  P., 

1597-16b7. 
Ron,  Basque  S.  —  Ixii. 
RuSo,  JoOo  de  (Jean  de  Rouen),  French 

A.,  Idth  cent. 
Rubens,  Peter  Paul,  Flem.  P.,    1577- 

1640. 
Ruviales,  P.,  16th  cent.  —  Ixvi. 

ScMvedra  y  Castillo,   Ant.,   P.,   16th 

cent.  —  Ixxiii. 
Saechetti,  Giov.  Battista,  It.  A.,  d.l766. 
Sagrero,   Quillermo,   S.,   end  of  16tb 

cent.  —  xlviii. 
Sanchez,  Martin,  8.,  end  of  16th  cent. 


592 


LIST  OF  ARTISTS. 


Sanehu^  NMfro,  S.,  iOth  cent.  —  zUx. 
a<m  UoeadiOy  Pablo  cfe,  P.,  16th  cent. 

—  Ixx. 

8Qn  Pedro,  Pedro  Gontalo  cfe,  8.,  end 

of  18tfa  cent.  -<-  Iviii. 
Sansavino.  Andrea  da  (A.  CotUueci), 
,    It.  8.,  1100-1509. 
Santo*  Crus^  P.,  d.  ca.  1600.  —  Ixvi. 
Sarto^  Andrea  del.  It.  P.,  1486-1531. 
iSetef,  Cornelis,  Dutch  P.,  1597-1660. 
Sebaetiano  da  Piombo,  It.  P.,  1485- 

1547. 
Seghert,  Daniel,  Dutch  P.,  1590 1661. 
Sequeira,  Ani.  de,  Port.  P.,  1768-1887. 

—  509. 

fievilla,  Juan  de.  P.,  1627-96.  —  IxxW. 
Siloe,  Diego  de^  A.  and  8.,  d.  1663.  -^ 

1.  Hi. 
— ,  GU  de.  SOB  of  the  preceding,  8., 

end  of  l5th  cent.  —  xlvii.  xlix. 
Simffes.Ant.,  Port.  8.,16kh  cent.— 630. 
Stamina,  Qerardo,  It.  P.,  bom  1364. 

—  Ixiii. 

Siurmio,  Hernando  de,  P.,  ca.  1666. 
Suarez,  Ant.,  S.,  1648  64.  —  441. 

Taborda  Yieira  (Portuenee),  Port.  P., 

d.  1804. 
Taea^  Ant.,  Port.  P.,  16th  cent. 
Taeca,  Pietro,  It.  S.,  d,  ca.  1660.  —  Iv. 
Talavera,  Juan  de,  S.,   16th  cent.  — 

Ivii. 
Tarragona,  Pere  (Pedro)  Johan  de,  S., 

16th  cent.  —  xlviii. 
Teniere,  David,  the  Younger,  Flem.  P., 

1610-90. 
Terei,  Filippo,  It.  A.,  d.  ca.  1598. 
Theotocdptili ,    Domenico    (el    Oreco), 

Greek  P.,  1548-1626.  —  Ixviii. 
— ,  Jorge  Manuel,  son  of  the  preced- 
ing, A.,  d.  1631.  —  131. 
Tibaldi,    Pellegrino,   It.   P.   and  A., 

1527(?)-92.  —  Ixvii. 
Tiepolo,  CHovanni  Battieta,  It,  P.,  1696- 

1770.  —  Ixxxiii. 
Tintoretto,   il  (Jac.  Robtiati),   It.  P., 

1519-94.  —  Ixviii. 
Titiano  Yecelli  da  Cadore,  It.  P.,  1477- 

1578.  —  Ixviii. 
Tobar,   Aloneo   Miguel  de.    P.,    1678- 

1768.  —  Ixxvii. 
Toledo,  Juan  Bautieta  de,  A.,  d.  1663. 

—  109. 

Tom4,  Narcieo,  8.,  18th  cent.  —  Ix. 
Torralva,  Oonsalvo  de,  Port.  A.,  16th 

cent. 
Torrigiani,  Pietro,  It.  S.,  ca.  1470  1522. 

—  Iv.  416. 

Trezzo,  Oiacomo,  It.  8.,  d.  1589. 
Tristan,  Luii,  P..   ca.  1586-1640.   — 

Ixxviii. 
Tudelilla,  8.,  d.  1566.  —  Ivii. 


Ulrecht,  Luis  and  Oaaquin  of,  Dutch 
glass-painters,  15th  cent.  —  132. 

Yakklvira,  Pedro  de,  A.  and  8.,  d. 

1665.  —  liii. 
Yaldit  Leal,  Juan  de.  P.,  1630^.  - 

Ixxiii. 
Yallejo,  Juan  de,  A.,  16th  cent. 
YanviUlli,  Lod.,   It.  P.  »nd  A.,  1700- 

1773. 
Yargae,  Luie  de.  P.,  1602-68.  —  Ixvii. 
Vatquu,  Martkn,  Port.  A.,  d.  befbre 

1448.  —  656. 
Yazquee,  Aloneo,  P.,  d.  1649.  —  Ixvu. 
Yelaeeo,  Luie  de,  Port.  P.,  i6th  cent. 

—  Ixvii. 

Yelazqtiee,  Diego  Y.  de  Silva,  P., 
1599-1660.  —  Ixxviii-Ixxxi.  395. 

— ,  Juan,  8.,  16th  cent. 

— ,  Zacaria  Gonzalet,  P.,  18th  cent.  — 
Ixxxiii. 

Yei^goechea,  see  Bengoechea. 

Yeray,  EUenne,  French  S.,  16th  cent. 

—  Ivii. 

Yergara,    Arnao   de,    glass  -  painter. 

16th  cent. 
— ,  mc.  de,  8.,  d.  1574.  —  Iv. 
— ,  Ific.  and  Juan  de,   sons    of  the 

preceding,  8.  and  glass- painters, 

16th  cent. 
Yermeyen,  Jehan  Cornelie,   Flem.  en- 
graver, 1600-1659. 
Yernet,  CUntde-Joeeph,  French  P.,  1714- 

98. 
Yeroneee,   Paolo   (P.  Caliari),    It.  P., 

1528-88.  —  Ixviii. 
Yigami,  see  Borgona. 
Yiladomat,  Antonio,  P.,  1878-1755. 
YillalpandOy  Franc,  de,  8.,  d.  1561.— 

liii. 
Yillegas,  Joei.  modem  P. 
Yilloldo,  P.,  16th  cent.  —  Ixvii. 
Yolterra,  Daniele  da   (D.  Ricciarelli), 

It.  P.,  1509-67. 
Yos,  Marten  de,  Flem.  P.,  1531-1603. 

WatUau,Antoine,  French  P.,  1684-1721. 
Weyden,    Roger  vcm  der,    Flem.   P., 

1399  (?)- 1464.  —  Ixiv. 
Wouverman,  Philips,  Dutch  P.,  1619-68. 

Xamete,  8.  and  A.,  16th  cent.  —  liv. 
Xavier,  Ignacio:  Port.  P.,  born  1724. 

—  612. 

Yofies,  ffernan,  P.,  16th  cent.  —  Ixix. 

Zareillo,  Frane.,  S.,  1707-48.  —  Ixi. 
ZariHena,  Oristdbal,  P.,  d.  1622.  —  Ixx. 
Zuecari,  Federigo,  It.  P.,  1660-1609. 

—  Ixvu. 

Zwbardn,  Franc.,  P.,  1598-1661.  — 
Izxli. 


INDEX. 


Abdalajis,  Sierra  de  329. 

338. 
Abdera  294. 
Abrantes  610. 
Abrera  221. 
AcnalcAzar  42li. 
Adi^a^  the  19.  45.  40. 
Adanero  45. 
Adra  294. 
Agoncillo  ITT. 
Agramdn  285. 
Agramunt  214. 
Agaadti]c«  886. 
Agudo,  Monte  284.  2B9. 
Agneda,  tbe  587, 
Aguilar  214. 

—  de  Campdo  41. 

—  de  Ebro  181. 

—  de  la  Prontera  319. 
Aguilas  298.  245. 
Aginas,  Sierra  de  las  266. 

258.  271. 
Agulleni.  Monte  272. 
Ahnsfn  61. 
Aire,  Serra  do  561. 
Aitzgorri,  Monte  14. 
Aizobal  217. 
AJin,  Pena  de  279. 
Alag6n  174. 
Alanfs  459. 
Alarcos  453. 
Alar  del  Key  41. 
Alaarinego  321. 
AlSva,  Prov.  3.  24. 
— ,  Concha  de  15. 
Albacete  2T8. 
Alba  de  Tormea  472. 
Albiida  274. 
— ,  Puerto  de  274. 
Albalat  de  la  Bibera  266. 
— :  Estanque  de  247. 
Albana  4^. 

Albardoa,  Scrra  d'  555. 
Albarregas,  the  456.  457. 
Albatera-Gatral  283. 
Albentosa  251. 
Alberche,  the  50.  446. 
Alb^res,  Monts  186. 
Albergarla  563. 
Alberiqae  268. 
Albuera  de  Cornalvo  457. 
Albafera,the24l.  265.266. 


Albnferia  549. 
Albnizech  252. 
Alcacer  do  Sal  547. 
Alcieovas  5)8.  • 
Alcali  de  Ghisbert  246. 

—  de  Guadaira  422. 

—  de  Henares  152. 
del  Rio  392. 

— ,  Atalayafl  de  246. 
Alcanadre  177. 
— ,  the  180. 
Alcaniz  181. 
Alcanizo  446. 
Alcdntara  450. 
— ,  the  514.  533. 

—  Mar  540. 
Alcantarilla  286.  297. 
Alcantarillas  427. 
Alcariz,  Sierra  de244.285 
Alcandete  307. 
Alcaz^ba,Gerro  de  la  369. 
Alcksar  de  San  Juan  277. 
Alceda  44. 
Aldra  268. 
Alcoa,  the  662.  553. 
Alcoba,  Serra  d'  664. 
Alcoba9a  65^^. 
Alcochete  513. 
Alcol^a,  Puente  de  303. 
Alcover  238. 
Alcoy  274.  272. 
-,  the  271.  274. 
Alcubierre,  Sierra  de  173. 
Aleubilla  426. 
Alcubillaa  y  O^rgal  299 
Alcndfa,  Valle  de  la  453. 
Alctldia  de  Crespfns  270. 
Alenneza  165. 
Aldea  del  Cano  452. 

—  Gallega  513. 
Aldeanuera  (Logr.)  176. 

—  de  la  Vera  446,  447. 
Aledo  297. 
Alegrfa  15. 
Alemquer  518. 
Alemtcjo  606.  507.  etc. 
Aleya  198. 

Alfacar,  Sierra  de  368. 
Alfafiir  268.  266. 
Alfaques,   Puerto  de  loa 

239 
Alfarellos  564.  558. 


Baedeksb's  Spain  and  Portugal. 


Alfaro  176. 
Alfarrobeira  513. 
Algaba,  La  392. 
Algaida  426. 
Algameca,  Monte  291. 
Algeciras  373. 
Algemesi  26S.. 
Alg^  540. 
Alginet  268. 
Algodonales  431. 
— ,  Sierra  de  427. 
Algodor  452.  126.  276. 
— ,  the  452. 
Algorta  24. 
Alguazas  286. 
Alhama  330. 

—  de  Aragdn  166. 

—  de  Murcia  297. 

— ,  Sierra  de  322.  830. 
Alhamilla,  Sierra  299. 
Alhandra  513. 
— ,  Mouchao  d'  513. 
Alhaurin  el  Grande  321. 
Alhondiguilla  303. 
Alhoa  Vedros  546. 
Alicante  279. 
Aliseda  451. 
Aljubarrota  565. 
Aljucdn  457.  452. 
Almacellas  180. 
Almada  540. 
Almad^n  453. 
Almadenejos  453. 
Almagrera,   Sierra  de 

29^ 
Almagro  301. 
Almaj^r  291. 
Almansa  278. 
— ,  Pantano  de  278. 
Almanzora  298. 
Almaraa  447. 
Almargen  969. 
Almazin  18.  156. 
Almazora,  Canal  de  248. 
Almeida  573. 
Almeirim  512. 
Almenara  248. 
-,  Sierra  de  289.  297. 
Almendralejo  460. 
Almendrieos  298. 
Almerfa  299. 
Almocegema  546. 

38 


594 


INDEX. 


Campo  Aanir 


Almoddrftr    del 

468. 

—  del  Rio  aOi. 
— ,  Cerro  de  IM. 
Almonacid  403. 
Almonte,  the  U7.  4fiO. 
AImorad<-Do]ores  S9B3. 
Almoraima  872. 
Almorchdn  454.  804. 
— ,  Sierra  de  804. 
Almoar61  611. 
Almadaina,  8ierra  374. 
Almad^var  179. 
Almaradiel  803. 
Almasafei  266. 
AloraSaO. 
Alpalhio  610. 
Alp^ra  278. 
AlDiuarrafl,    Valleys    of 

Alqaerfa  384.  368. 
AluUaa  15.  176. 
Altaftdla  28(). 
Altamira,  Monte  500. 
— ,  Sierra  de  446. 
Alambres  393. 
Alverca  618. 
Alviella,  the  512.  530. 
Alvito  548. 
Alsa  10. 
Alsania  15. 
Amandi  491. 
Ambota,  Pena  de  15. 
AmbraeU  449. 
Ameixal  548. 
Amieira  563. 
Amorebieta  30. 
AmpoUa  239. 
Amposta  389. 
Ampurdjln,  EJ  184.  187. 
Ampurias,   Cast,  de  188. 
Amarrio  26. 
Ancho  10. 
Anclar,  Honte  217. 
Andalusia  160.  294. 
And^a,  Sierra  de  15. 
Andfa,  Sierr*  de  177. 
Andoafn  13. 
Andorra  217. 
Androsilla  177. 
And<ijar  808. 
Anduz,  Monte  20. 
Angeles,  Cerro  delos  275. 
— ,  Brmita  de  los  273.  275. 
Angles  190. 
Angles  Ola  214. 
Angostura.  Gorge  of  431. 
Anitorgis  181. 
Anov^r  del  Tajo  276. 
Anserall  217. 
Antequera  328. 
Afiuar,  Sierra  del  306. 
Anza(31a  19. 


819. 
Apeadero  838. 
Aracon  169. 
—  ,  the  161.  176. 
Arahal  887. 
Araiz,  Vonte  14. 
Aralar,  Peak  of  14. 
Aramenha  510. 
Aramprana,  Cast,  de  927. 
Aranda  de  Duero  18. 
Aranguren  44. 


Lrangui 
Lraigu^ 


.u^a  133.  37». 
Arantes,  Cerro  de  los  117. 
ArapUes,  Los  472. 
Araya  15. 
Arbd  493. 
Arb6f  230. 
Arbuciae  190. 
Arcade  491. 
Areentales  44. 
Archena  286. 
— ,  Banos  de  286. 
Archidona  329. 
Areos  de  la  Front  era  431. 

—  de  Medinaeeli  155. 

—  de  V^Ue  de  Vea  686. 
Arechevaleta  16. 
ArSgos  686. 
Arenas,  Las  24. 

—  Oordas  428. 
Arentim  594. 
Ar^nys  de  Mar  192. 

—  de  Munt  192. 
Areta  24. 
Ar^valo  45. 
Argel6s-«ur-Mer  186. 
ArgamasiUa  de  Alba  300. 

277. 

—  de  Calatrava  453. 
Argentona  193. 
Arguedas  175. 
Ariz-Dos-Caninos  20. 
Ariza  155.  18. 
ArjonUla  303. 
Arlaban,  Puerto  de  16. 
Arlanz6n,  the  18.  26. 
Armilla,  Llanos  de  368. 
Armuna  51. 
Amedillo  177. 
Amedo  177. 
Arose,  Bar  of  495. 
Arrabida  546. 
Arrayolas  547. 
Arriaca  163. 
Arriate  872. 
Arrigoriaga  24. 
Arrizafa,  Quinta  de  318. 
A'rronches  510. 
Arroyo  de  la  Antigua  427 

—  de  MalparUda  450. 

—  del  Puerco  450. 
Arroyuelos,  Cerro  de  452. 
Artesa  de  Segre  214.  217. 


Anuda  973.  3r70. 

Ased  182. 

Assomar  MO. 

Astapa  388. 

Astigirraga  13. 

Astillero  44. 

Astorga  479. 

Asturias.  Pror.  461.  485. 

Atalaia  661. 

—  Quia  64a 

Atalaya,  the  431. 

— ,  Cortiio  de  U  4S1. 

Atarfe  831. 

Ataqnines  45. 

Ataua,  Ridge  of  14. 

Ateea  166. 

AtmeUa  ^. 

Ave,  Sierra  del  368. 

Avebo  664. 

-,  Ria  de  664. 

Avila  45.  471. 

— ,  Paramera  de  46.  49. 

~,  Puerto  de  49. 

-,  Sierra  de  46.  46. 

AtIWs  491.  489. 

Axarquia  821.  323. 

Aya,  Pena  de  10. 

Azagra  177. 

Azaila  181. 

Azamfouia  513. 

Asana  445. 

Azaraque  285. 

Azar^ja  547. 

Azc6itia  13. 

Azelar,  Sierra  di  15. 

Azoia  545.  660. 

Azpeitia  13. 

Azuqueca  158. 

Baca,  the  653.  565. 
Bad^oz  467. 
BadaJona  193. 
Baena  807. 
Baetica  294. 
Baeza  302. 
Baides  154. 
Ballon  302. 
Balaguer  217. 
',  Castillo  de  239. 
Balanzona  303. 
Balenyi  191. 
Balistres,  Col  des  187. 
Ballena,  La  426. 
Balsicas  289. 
Bambola  156. 
Baneras  279.  274. 
Banyuls-sur-Ker  IS  7. 
Bari,  Portal  de  230. 
Barbautes  493. 
Barbastro  180. 
Barbate,  Bay  of  386. 
Barca  d'Alva  587. 
Barcellos  584. 


INDEX. 


595 


Bareelon*  ia4. 
Aduana  206. 
Arcbivo.  de  U  Corona 
de  Aragon  2(X5. 

—  Municipal  207. 
Arco  de  Triunfo  210. 
Art  Exhibition  196. 
Ataraxanaa  Barrack 

200. 
Audiencia  207. 
Ball  Games,Ba8quel96. 
Bankers  196. 
Barceloneta  210. 
Baths  196. 
Bull  Ring  195.  210. 
Calle  de  los  Etcndiilerfl 

200. 

—  deFenia©doVIl200. 

—  de  Paradia  206. 
CanoQJa  206. 

Casa  Consistorial  207. 

—  Dalmases  209. 

—  de  la  Dipntacion 

206.  2or. 

—  delo8ZapateTos205. 
Cathedral  m 
Cementerios  210.  211. 
Cervantes'  House  199. 
Consulates  196. 
Deposito  CDmercial206. 
Diputaci6n  Provincial 

206. 
English  Church  196. 
Ensanche  197. 
Exchange  20S. 
George,  Chapel  of  St. 

206.  207.     . 
Gr^cia  211. 
Harbour  199. 
Loiga  206. 
Mercado  del  Borne  209, 

—  de  San  Joad  201. 
.  Hontjuich  210. 

Museo  de  Bellas  Artea 
210. 

—  Estrueh  202. 

—  de  la.  Historia  209. 

—  Martorell  200. 

.  —  Provincial  206. 

—  de    Beproducciones 
209. 

Nuestra  Senora  de 

Belen  201. 

de  los  Reyes  201. 

Pabellon  de  la  Beiaa 

Regente  209. 
Palacio  de  Agricultura 

210. 

—  de  Bellas  Artea  '2 

—  de  Cienciaa  210. 

—  Epiacopal  206. 

—  de  Juaticia  210. 

—  Real  209. 


Babcblona  : 
Pant^on  de   Catalanea 

lUustrea  209. 
Park  209. 
Paseo  de  la  Aduana 

206. 

—  del  Cementerio  210. 

—  de  Col6n.l99. 

—  de  Gricia  202. 

—  de  San  Carlos  210. 
Physicians  196. 
Platerfa  208. 

Plaza  de  CataluSa  201. 

—  de   la  Conatitucion 
206. 

—  de  Palacio  203. 

—  de  la  Paz  199. 

—  Real  200.       . 

—  del  Rey  206. 

—  de  Toroa  195.  210. 
Popular  Festivals  196. 
Post  Oface  195. 
Provincial    Museum 

206. 
Pueblo  Nuevo  210. 193. 
Puerto  199. 
RaiTway  Stationa  194. 

201. 
Rambla  200.  197. 
San  Agttstin  200. 
-«  GervasiodeCasollas 

211.      . 

—  Jorge  207. 

—  Miguel    del  Puerto 
210. 

—  Pablo    del    Campo 
201. 

—  Pedro  delasPuellas 
210. 

SantaAgueda,  Cap.  206. 

—  Ana  202. 

—  Cruz  203. 

—  Eulalia  203. 
-^  MarU  del  Mar  208. 

del  Pino  201 

Santos  Jnsto  y  Pastor 

207. 
Sarria  211.  188. 
Statue  of  Aribau  209. 

—  of  Clav^  208. 

—  of  Columbus  199. 

—  of  Comillas  199. 

—  of  Guell  202. 

—  of  Marquet  199. 

—  of  Prim  209. 
Steamers  195. 
Suburbs  199. 
Theatres  195.  200. 
University  202. 
Zoological  Garden  209. 

Barcelona,    OampiSa  de 

226. 
Barceloneta  2iQ. 


Barcena  42. 

Barco  de  Valdeorras  481. 
Biirdenas,  the  174. 
Bargas  445. 
Barqulnha  611. 
Barra  de  MinhO  491. 
Barricas  251. 
Barreiro  546. 
Barrioa  397. 
— ,  Los  378. 

Barros,  Tierra  de  los  460. 
Basque  Provinces  2. 
Batalha  555.  566. 
Batuecas,  the  450. 
Bauma,  La  220. 
Bay  as,  the  26. 
Bayona  494. 
Baza  298. 
— ,  Sierra  de  298. 
Bazagona,  La  448. 
Beasafn  14. 
Becerril  478. 
Begona,  Church  of  28. 
Beira  (Mar),  Prov.  564. 
Beja  548. 
Bejar  472.    . 
— ,  Banos  de  472. 
— ,  Sierra  de  473. 
Belalcdzar  454. 
Belem  535.  540. 
Bellas  541. 
Bell-Lloefa  215. 
Bellpuig  214.. 
Bellreguart  272. 
Bellus  274. 
Bellver  217. 
Belmez  808. 
Belmonte  278, 
Bembibre  481. 
Bemfica  641. 
Bemposta  510. 
Benacaz6n  423. 
Benalmadena  32L 
Benaojan  372. 
Benavites  248. 
Beniajin  284.  289. 
Beniarre's  273. 
Benicadell,  Puerto  de274. 
— ,  Sierra  de  272. 
Benicarld  246. 
Benicasim  247. 
Beniel  284. 
Benifairo  248. 
Benifay6  de  Espioca  268. 

266. 
Beniganim  274. 
Beranga  44. 
Berlen^as,  Islaa  651. 
Bermeja,  Sierra  372. 
Bermeo  20. 
Berroc^l  52. 
Bes6s,  the  183.  192.  198. 

197. 


38  • 


596 


INDBX. 


BaUdsoi  483. 

Beteln  U. 

B^tera  367. 

Betulo  Ids. 

BidMooa,  the  2.  9. 

BUbao  21.  46. 

— ,  Bay  of  24. 

Bilbilif  156. 

BUibio,  Monte  17.  178. 

BiniSfar  180. 

Bisbal^  La  188. 

Biscay,  see  Vieeaya. 

Blanca  286. 

BUaea  IttS. 

Boada  &S7. 

BobadiUa  820.  828.  369. 

386. 
Bocairente  279. 
Boca  del  Asno  829. 
Bocal  del  Bey  173.  175. 
Bocca  do  Inferno  541. 
BolaSos  de  GelatraTaSOl. 
Bombarral  551. 
Bonanza  426. 
B<So  42. 
Bordeta  226. 
BordUs  188. 
Borel,  Montaia  de  272. 
Boriache  198. 
Borja  174. 
Bori^  238. 
-^  del  Campo  182. 
Bornos  431. 
Borunda  15. 
Bosch  de  Tosca  188. 
Bosque^  £1  431. 
Bourg-M adame  217. 
Bouro  562. 
Bdveda  472.  481. 
Braso  de  Prata  513. 
Braga  584. 
Branaelas  480. 
Breda  190. 
Brenes  805. 
Brincola  14. 
Brionet  178. 
Briviesca  17. 
^r^ula,  the  17. 
Babana  Valley  385. 
Bubierca  156. 
Babion  369. 
Bada,  island  239. 
Baen  Qticeso,  chapel  484. 
Bney.  Valle  del  &i, 
BugedOt  convent  17. 
Bujalance  303. 
Ballones,  Sierra  380. 
Buradon,  the  17.  178. 
Burgo,  £1  181. 
BorgOB  25. 

Arco  de  Feman  Gonza- 
lea  32. 

—  de  Santa  Maria  27. 


BoBOOl : 
Areo  de  U  Vic^Ja  86. 
Andieaela  83. 
Barrio  de  Vega  38. 
Boll  Ring  25.  33. 
Capitanfa  General  33. 
Cartnja  de  Miraflores 

34.86. 
Casa  (Tonsistorial  27. 
.  —  de  Angnlo  33. 

—  del  Old  82. 

—  del  Corddn  S3. 
<-  de  Miranda  83. 
Castillo  82. 
Cathedral  27.   . 
Cementerlo  32. 
Charles  m.,  Statae 

27, 
Cid,  Solar  del  32. 
Culegio  de  San  Nicolas 

27. 
Cabos,  the  82. 
Diez^a  Monument  32. 
Dipatacidn  Provincial 

Espolon  27. 
Gad^a  32. 

Hospital  del  Bey  34. 
— ,  MiliUry  27. 
Huelgas,  Las  84. 
Instituto  Provincial  27. 
Museum  27. 
Palacio . Arsobispal  27. 

—  de  Jnsticia  TT. 
Paseo  de  los  Cabos  32. 

—  del  Bspolon  Kuevo 
33. 

Vieio  2r. 

—  de  la  Tsla  32. 
^  de  la  Quinta  S3.  84. 

—  de  los  Vadillos  33. 
Plasa  Mayor  27. 
Puente  de  Malatos82.84. 

—  de  San  Pablo  38. 

—  de   SanU  Maria  27. 
San  Est^ban  32. 

—  GU33. 

—  KieoUa  31. 
.  Santa  Agueda  82. 

Seminario  de  S.  Jer6- 

.  nimo  32. 

Theatre  25.  27.  33. 
Bnrjasot  267. 
Bnrriana  248. 
Burunza,  the  13. 
Busdongq  484. 
Bussaco  572. 
—   Serra  de  564.  572. 

Oabal,  Monte  272. 
Caball  Bemat  m  225. 
Caballo,  Cerro  369J 
Cabanal.262.  266. 


Cabanas  U. 

—  de  la  Sagra  445. 
Oabanillas  175. 
Cabeaa  del  Asno  286. 

—  del  Buey  464, 

—  de  Hierro  123. 

—  de  la  Jara  243,  244. 

—  de  Montachique   589. 

—  de  Vaca  303. 
— ,  Sierra  de  la  285. 
Cabesas  de  San  i  aan.  Las 

428. 
Cabezdn  18. 
Gabo  de  Gata,  Sierra  del 

299. 

—  da  Boca  546. 
ofjCabra  307. 

'.  the  307.  9ia 

-,  La  192. 
— ,  Sierra  de  307. 
Cabras,  Sierra  de  lae 

286. 
Cabrera  198. 
Cabrils  193. 
Caeem  542.  549. 
GAceres  461.  446. 
Cachopo,  Great  St  Little 

641. 
Cachuca  586. 
Cacilhas  640. 
Gadima  305. 
Cadiz  434. 
— ,  Bay  of  426. 
Caide  586. 
Gajar  368. 
Oalabazanos  89. 
Calaf  214. 
— ,  Sierra  de  214. 
Galafell  227. 
Calahorra  176. 
Galal,  Cerro  368. 
Calamonte  480. 
Galanda,  Desierto  de  181. 
Galar  del  Mundo  244. 

286. 
Calasparra  286. 
Calatayud  156. 
Galatorao  157. 
Calatrava,  Campo  de  801. 

463. 
Caldas  de  Besaya,  Las 

42. 

—  d'Estrach  193, 
-—  da  Felgueira  573. 

—  do  Gerez  585. 

—  de  Malavella  iga 

—  de  Montbuy  192. 

—  da  Bainha  651.  613. 
Caldelas  493. 
Galderao,  Serra  648. 
Galderina,  La  301.  468. 
Caldetas  193. 
Calella  192. 


INDEX. 


597 


Calera  446. 

-Calesina,  L&  221. 

Calete380.. 

Callosa-  de  Segura  284. 

— ,  Sierra  de  283. 

Calmdr,  the  180. 

Calnegre  290. 

Calvario,  Sierra  del  431. 

Calzada  473. 

—  de  Calatrava,  La  301. 

—  de  Oropesa,  La  446. 
Gamallera  188. 
Camas  423. 

Cambre  482.  . 
Cambrils  238. 
Caminna  634. 
Campamento  380. 
Campanario  454. 
Campanillas  321. 
Campillo  de  Arenas  306. 
^  de  SaWatierra  464. 
Campillos  369. 
Campo  de  Cript^na  277. 

—  de  Gibraltar  372. 

—  Grande  539. 

—  Maior  509.     . 

—  Peqneno  539. 
^  Real  819.  307. 

—  de  Setiaea  544. 
Gampolide  514. 
Campomanes  485. 
Camprodon  191. 
Canada,  La  60.  453. 
Canabal  .491. 
Canal  Imperial  173.  158. 

174. 
Caiiamero  448. 
Canaveral  460. 
-,  Sierra  de  460. 
Candiel  251. 
Candor,  Panta  de  426, 
Ganet  de  Mar  192. 
Canete  la  Real  369. 
Canfranc  180. 
Cangas  de  Onis  489. 
Cangosto  41. 
Canigon,  the  184. 
Caniles  298. 
Cano,  Sierra  del  297. 298. 
Cannas  de  Senhorim  573. 
Canoeira  555. 
Cantibrio,  Sierra  de  177. 
Cantabrian  Mts.  2.  484. 
Cantalapiedra  464. 
Cdntales,  Punta  de   los 

322. 
Capara  449.      . 
Caparica  640. 
Capileira  369. 
Gapsanes  182. 
Garacollera  453. 
Oaracuel  453. 
Caraso,  Mont,  de  472. 


Garbjyo,  Sierra  de  461. 
Garbonera,.  8ierra^380. 
Careagente  268. 
Carcayellos  541.. 
Cardedeu  191. 
Cardona  218. 
Gardoner,  the  212.  214. 
Garinena  178. 
Carlitte,  the  184. 
Garmona  432.  804. 
Garmonita  452. 
Garnero,  Panta  376.  880. 
Garnota  513. 
Garo,  Monte  239..  245. 
Carolina  464. 
— ,  La  302. 
Garpio.303.  464.  473. 
Carranza  44. 
Carrascal  447. 
Carrascale^o  462. 
Carrasede  661. 
Garratraca  820. 
Garregado  513. 
Garregal  do  Sal  573. 
Carregneiro  548. 
Carretero,  Puerto  306. 
Carril  495. 
Carridn,.  the  18.  89. 

—  de  l08  G^spedes  423. 

—  de  los  Gondes  40. 
GarroSQueta,    Sierra    de 

274. 
Cartagena  290. 
— ,  Campo  de  289. 
— ,  Sierra  de  290. 
Ci&rtama  320. 
Cartaxo  513. 
Carteja  376.  373. 
Carvajales,  Penon  de  los 

307. 
Garvoeiro,  Gape  651. 
Gasa  Blanca  173. 

—  Branca  647.  548. 

—  del  Labraddr  125. 

—  Llimona,  Montana  de 
212. 

—  Massana  229. 

—  Rabonela  820. 
Casal  496. 

—  de  Carreiros  513 
Gasar,  El  276. 

—  de  G^ceres  450. 
Casariche  820. 
Gasas  y  Reina  459. 
Casatejada  448. 
Cascaes  641. 
Gasetas  168.  174. 
Caspe  181. 
Castanheira  613. . 
Gastejar  171.  174. 
Castejon  175. 
Gastellar  214.  372. 
— ,  Sierra  de  459. 


Castelldefels  -2!^. 
Castellfallit  de  la  Roca 

188. 
Castellnon  de-Basella 

217. 
Gastello  Branco  611. 
de  Pena  544. 
de  Vide  451.  510. 

—  dos  Mouros  544. 
Gastelldn  de  la  Plana  247. 
— ,  Canal  de  247. 
Castil  de  Peones  17. 
Castile  5.  • 

— ,  Canal  of  18. 36.  39.  41. 

k. 

Gastilleja  de  la  Cuesta 

423. 
Gastillejo  276. 
Castillo  16.  473. 
— ,  Monte  279. 

—  de  Dona  Blanca  432. 
Gastillon  473. 

Castro  21. 

—  Nuno  19. 
Castuera  464. 
Catalonia,  or 
Gataluna  183.  ■ 
Catarroja  268.  266. 
Gatoira  495. 
Gatral  283. 
Cattlar  227. 
Ganca  61. 
Gaudete  279. 

Gaulina,  Llanos  •  de  428. 

431. 
Caxarfas  563. 
Caxias  640. 

Cazalla  de  la  Sierra  459. 
Cazerel  548. 
GeboUera,    Cerro   de    la 

154. 
— ,  Sierra  177. 
Gebreros  60. 
Cegama  14^ 
Gelorico  573. 
Celri  18S. 

Gemas  de  Ourem  510. 
Genes  3G8. 
Cenicero  178. 
Centellas  191. 
Cerate,  Banos  de  18. 
Cerbfere  187. 
Cereal  613. 
Gercedilla  62. 
CerdaSa  217. 
Gerdeira573. 
Cerro  de  Oro  284. 
Gervatos  42. 
Cervcra  214. 
— ,  Gabo  283. 
Cesnres  496. 
Getina  156. 
Chamartln  108. 


&98 


INDBX. 


CbaBf  a  MO. 

Ohio  de  M A$M  063.  063. 
Charca  de  la  Albuera  467. 
Cbaval,  Venta  del  306. 
Chavaa  585. 
Cheleiros  546. 
Chella^,  ttie  514.  519. 
Chiclaaa  436. 
Chilches  348. 
OhiU6u  464. 
Chinchgia  278. 
Chipiona  425. 
Chiprana  181. 
Ohorro  820. 

Chuchillos  de  Siris  376. 
Chorriaaa  321. 
Giano-SantarAna  486. 
Cid,  Sierra  del  279. 
Clego,  El  178. 
GiemiK)zae]o8  276, 
0^00,  Islas  de  494. 
Cieaa  286.  . 
Cinco  Villas  174. 
Ciiiera  484. 
Gintra  642. 
— ,  Serra  de  642. 
Giorda  16. 
Gisneros  473. 
Gitania  685. 
Giudad  Real  453. 
—  Eodrigo  472. 
Glariana,  the  274. 
Clot  192. 
Gda587. 
Coca  61. 

Gochinos,  L.aa  436.  386. 
Goimbra  666. 
Coin  321. 

Collado  Mediano  62. 
Gollarea  540. 
GoUbat6  222. 
GoUioare  186. 
Gullsuspina  191. 
Golmenar  32d. 
— ,  Monies  de  828. 
Colorado,  Gerrq  823. 327. 
Golttmbare8,Sierra  de284. 
Complutum  152. 
Goncentaina  274.  272. 
Concha,  La  12. 
Gondeixa  563. 
Gonif^rence,  JUe  de  9. 
Gongost,  the  191. 
Gonil  388.  . 
Gonjo  496.    . 
Gonquista  448. 
Constaxusis  511. 
Constant! na  304. 
Gorbones,the804. 887.422. 
Gorcos-Aguilarejo  18. 
Gdrdoba,  Sie/ra  de  308. 
308 
la  Vieja  801.  818. 


04vtevft  807. 
Ale<xar  817. 
Barrio   del  Alciaar 

317. 
Baths,  Kooriah  309. 
Ball  Ring  308.  809. 
Calahorra  817. 
Gampo    de  la  Merced 

318. 

—  de  la  Verdad  317. 
Camposanto  de  lot  Mir- 

tires  817. 
Capilla  de  los  Mirtires 
817. 

—  de     San  Bartolomtf 
818. 

Carmen,  SI  817. 
Gasa  de  ATiintamiento 
318. 

—  de  Expositos  816. 
Cathedral  809. 
Gementerfo  817. 
Golegiata  de  San  Hi- 

pdlito  809. 
Convento    BrmitaSo 
818. 

—  San  Jerooimo  818, 
Gorredera  818. 
Ouna,  La  818. 
Ermitas,  Las  818. 
Esenela  de  Bellas  Artes 

318. 
Foundling  Hospital 

316. 
Hospioio  318. 
Hospital   del  Gardenal 

318. 
Mercado  818. 
Mosqne  809. 
Museum  818. 
Palacio  Episcopal  316. 
Paseo  del  Gran  Gapitan 

309 

—  de*  Hihera  317. 

—  de  la  Victoria  309. 
Plaza  de  Toros  808. 

309.  . 
Private  Houses  318. 
Puerta   de  Almoddyar 

309.  317. 

—  del  Pnente  817. 

—  del  Eincon  318. 

—  de  SeviUa  317. 
San  Agustin  318. 

—  Jacinto  316. 

—  Lorenzo  818. 

—  Miguel  318. 

—  ITicoliSs  de  la  Villa 
309. 

—  Pedro  317. 
Santa  Marina  318. 
Santuario  de  N.  S.  de 

Fuensanta  317. 


CdKDOTA  : 

Seminarlo   de  San  Pe- 
'  lagio  316. 
Theatre  306.  309. 
Torre    de    Malmnerta 

318 
Triunfo  317. 
Valparaiso,  Ennitasde 

Goria  425. 
GonieiUa  186. 
Cornell^  de  Uohreeat22S. 
Gorrales  436. 

,  Los  42. 
Goronil  387. 
Gorrederas  302. 
Gorreta,  PeSa  de  la  279. 
Gortadura  434. 
Cortes  (Nav.)  174. 
^  de  la  Frontera  372. 
Corti^,GonTento  da  546. 
Corunna  482. 

Prorince  461. 
Costa  Boia  188. 
Cotillas  286. 
Goto  432.  433. 
Covadonga  489. 
CovarrHbias^Sierrade  18. 
Govellinhas  586. 
Govilba  511. 
Cox  283. 
Crato  610. 
Greu  Alto  212. 
Greus,  Gape  187. 
Grevillente  283.  279. 
-,  Sierra  de  283. 
CruB  da  Ldgoa  566. 

—  Quebrada  640. 
Cuacos  447. 
Caandra,  La  46. 
Ciiartell  248. 
Cuba  548. 
Cubellas  227. 
Cuenca  276. 
Cuervo,  El  428. 
Cuesta  de  laMatansa  329. 
Cueva, .  Santuario   de  la 

226. 

—  del  Gato  372. 
-^  Santo,    Sierra    de   la 

251. 
Culera  187. 
Gullera  268.  266. 
— ,  Sierra  de  268.  986. 
Gunheira  451. 
Cuntis,  Caldas  de  495. 
Curtis  482. 
Custoias  583. 


Difundo  540. 
Daimiel  301. 
.Daroca  157. 
>Darro,  t&e  833.  336.  352. 


INDEX. 


599 


I>elica  26. 

Dexnanda,  Sierra    de  la 

178. 
D^nia  272. 

Descarga,  Paerto  de  19. 
Deslerto  24. 
Despenaperros,  Puerto  de 

Deya"20. 
Diezma  900. 
Dois  Portos  560. 
Dolores  288. 
Don  Alvaro  466. 

—  Bob!  to  465. 

—  Carlos,  Llanos  de  431. 
Dona  Hencia  SOT. 
Doninos  472. 
Dornajo,  the  368.  348. 
Dos  Caminos  20.  24. 

—  Herman  as  427. 
Douro,  thelS.  19. 155.  566. 

575.  586. 
— ,  Bar  of  the  583. 
Dnenas  18. 
Duero,  see  Douro. 
Durango  20. 
— ,  the  20. 

Ebo,  Sierra  de  272. 
Ebro,  the  17.  25.  41.  183. 

2S9.  245.  etc. 
— ,  Conchas  del  178. 
Echarri  176. 
Ecija  319. 
Egara  212. 
Egon  177. 
Eibar  20. 

Eizaga,  Monte  de  14. 
Ejea  174.- 
Elche  282.  279. 
— ,  Albufera  de  283. 
Elda  279. 

-,  Sallnetas  de  279. 
Eliberri  331. 
Elne  186. 
Elvas  509.  648. 
Elvira,   Sierra  300.  306. 

831. 
— ,  Bancs  de  Sierra  331. 
Empalme  (Bar.)  190. 

—  (Almendricos)  298. 

—  (Cadiz)  305. 

—  de  las  Minas  462. 

—  de  Moi;(5n  387.  319. 

—  de  Trocadero  483. 
Emperador  458. 
Etnporice  188. 
Enamorados,  Pena  de  los 

829. 
Encartaciones,  Las  3. 
Encina,  I^a  271.  279. 
Endaya  9. 
Enguera,  Sierra  de  270. 


Enix,  Sierra  de  299. 
Enmedio,  Sierra  de  298. 
Enol,  Lago  de  489. 
Enrique,  Fort  9. 
Entroncamento  511 
Enxara   dos  Cavalleiros 

640. 
Epila  157. 
Epora  303. 
Eresma,  the  51.  117. 
Ericeira  560. 
Ermezinde  683. 
Ermida  586. 
Ermiia  20. 
— ,  the  20. 
Erustes  445. 
Escabia,  Pena  261. 
Bscacena  423. 
Escatron  181. 
Esclavitud  496. 
Escombrera,  island  291. 
Escorial  109.  60. 
Esmoriz  665. 
Espadin,  Sierra  de   247. 

248.  261. 
Bsparraguera  221. 
EspartinaSfMeseta  de  275. 
Espe^a  473. 
Espeluy  302.  305. 
Esperanza,  Fuente  de  la 

Espicbel,  Cabo  de  540. 

Espiel  303. 

Espinar  52. 

Espinas,  Sierra  de  247. 

Espinho  665. 
Espinosa  154. 

—  de  Villagonzalo  41, 
Espluga  del  Francoll238. 
Esplugas  2^36. 
Espuna,  Sierra  de  297 
Estarreja  565. 
Estella  177.  178. 
Estepa  886. 
Est^par  18. 
Estepona,  Sierra  de  872. 

370. 
Estfvarez,  Ermita  de  16. 
Estivella  251. 
Estoril  541. 
EstreUa  368. 
—,Serra  da  505.  511.673 
Estremadura  443.  510. 
Estremoz  647« 
Euba  20. 
Engaria  545. 
Europa,  Penas  de  2. 
— ,  Picos  de  489. 

—  Point  378. 
Evora  547. 

Fabara  181.     . 


F^brica  del  Pedroso  469^ 

Facinho  da  Boca.  546. 

Falset  182. 

Fan^al,  Puerto   del  289. 

Fargue,  El  300. 

Faro  549. 

Faurrt  248. 

Faydn  181. 

Fernan  Caballero  463. 

—  Nunez  319. 
Ferradoza  587. 
Ferrao  586. 
Ferrol  484. 
Figar6  191. 
Figueira    da   Foz   553. 

564. 
Figueirido  494. 
Figueirinho  548. 
Figueras  187. 
Figuier,  Cap  9. 
Filabres,  Sierra  298.  299. 
Filgueira  492. 
FinesrOlula  298. 
Fitero  175. 
Flassil  188. 
Flix  182. 
Floresta  238. 
Fluvid,  the  183.  187. 188. 
Focinho  da  Boca  545, 
Fojo,  the  546. 
Fontanar  154. 
Fontanat,  the  184. 
Fontellas  175. 
Formoselha  564. 
Fornells  190. 
Fornos  d'Algodres  573. 
Foz,  Castello  da  582. 
Fraguas,  Las  42. 
Francia,  Pena  de  450. 

472. 
Francolf,  the  228.  237. 
Franquesas,  Las  191. 
Fregeneda  587. 
Freineda  573. 
Freixo  587. 
Pres  de  Val  36. 
Frieira  492. 
Fuenlabrada  445, 
Fuenmayor  178. 
Fuensanta,    Banos    de 

301.       . 
— ,  Montana  de  239. 
Fuente  del  Arco  459. 

—  Grande  868. 

—  la  Higuera  270. 

—  de  Piedra  320. 

—  de  la  Beina  328. 

—  San  Estdban  472.  637. 

—  de  la  Sarna  431. 
Fuenterrabfa  9. 
Fuentes  de  Ebro  181. 

—  de  Onoro  473. 

—  de  Valdepero  40. 


600 


INDEX. 


Fundio  611. 
Fustliana  176. 

OabirrM,  Montet  190. 

Gaia666. 

Oainehurisqueta  10. 

GaUn  290. 

Galea,  Panta  de  24. 

Galieia  101.  481. 

Gillego,  the  161.  179. 

Gallinas-L»  Zarxa  61. 

Qallur  174. 

Gama  44. 

Gandia  371. 

—f  Orao  de  971. 

Qarbet  187. 

Garraf,  Costal  de  227. 

Garray  166. 

Garriga,  La  191. 

Garrovaia  457. 

GarroyUlM  460. 

Garvaio  648. 

Gata,  Sierra  d«  443.  419. 

Gaucin  372. 

Gavi  227. 

Gaya,  the  212.  227.  290. 

Gaztile«,  Sierra  373. 

Gegaro  646. 

Gelida  229. 

Gelsa  181.   . 

Gelves  425. 

Genii,  the  329.  334.  365. 

etc. 
Genov^s  274. 
Gerez,  Serra  do  586. 
Gerona  188. 
Getafe  276.  462. 
Gibraltar  873. 
— ,  Strait  of  876. 
Gigonza  428. 
Gijon  489. 
Gillet  251. 
Gineta,  La  278. 
Gobantes  320. 
GoUega  512. 
Golondrinas,  Boeas  de  las 

226.  220. 
Gomecello  464. 
Gdmez-Narro  46. 
Gorm&a  8. 
Gorvea,  Pena  2.  26.. 
GouvSa  573. 
GrafA,  Forte  da  609. 
Gracia  211. 

Grajal  .de  Campos  473. 
Gralla.  Sierra  de  275. 
Chranada  831. 
.  Alameda  848. 

—  de  Darro  843. 

Albaiciu  844.  883. 

Albaida  848. 

Albercdn  de  las  Damas 
368. 


Okamida : 
.  Alberc6n  del  Kegro  36& 
Alcaieer£a  842. 
AlcAsar   de  Genii  348. 
Alhambka  849. 
Abencerragee,     Hall 

of  the  360. 
Adarves,   Jardin   de 

108  366. 
Alameda  862. 
Alcaziba  354. 
Alhambra  AlU   349. 
863. 

—  Arehivea  363. 

—  Palace  366. 

—  Park  362. 

—  Vase  362. 
Ambassadors,  Hall  of 

the  858. 

Aposentot  de  Car- 
los V.  368. 

Baths  863.  366. 

Campo  de  loa  Har- 
tiTes  366. 

CapiUa  362. 

Carmen  de  Arratia 
865. 

Casa  Real  866. 

Cistern  354. 

Contreras'  Honse363. 

Cuarto  Dorado  362. 

->  de  Machuca  366. 
363. 

Cuesta  de  las  Graces 
852. 

—  Empedrada  352. 
Hotels  332.  352. 
Lindaraja  362. 
Lions,  Court  of  the 

369. 
Hexuar  562. 
Heaquita  Heal  865. 
Mirador    de   Daraxa 

862 
Moorish  Chapel  863. 

366. 
Mosque  366. 
Myrtles,  Court  of  the 

857. 
Palace,  Charles  V.'s 

361. 
— ,  Moorish  355. 
Patio  de  la  Aibehira 

358. 

—  de  la  Alberca  857. 
--  de  los  Ar/ayanes 

357.      . 

—  de  Daraxa  363. 

—  de  los  Leones  859. 

—  del  Mexuar  862. 

—  de  la  Mezquita 
362 

—  delaBi(ja864.     ' 


GSAMADA : 

Alhambxa: 
Peinador  de  la  Reina 

364. 
Pilar  deCarloBY.  353. 
Plata  de  Jkos  Aljibes 

864. 

—  de  la  Artilleria 
864. 

—  del  Pablar  364. 
Puer  ta  de  la  Aleazaba 

354. 

—  de  las  Armas  35k 

—  del  Carril  863. 

—  de   laa    Qranadas 
852. 

—  de  Hierro  366. 
.—  Judiciaria  363. 

-T*  de  los  Siete  Sue- 
lot  366. 

—  del  Sol  362. 

—  del  Vino  863. 
Riuda  860. 
Salade  losAjimeces 

362. 

—  dela  3arca  353. 

—  de  las  Dos  Herma- 
nasSei. 

—  de  los  Embai ado- 
res 368. 

—  de  las  Frutas  3S3. 

—  delaJusticiaStiO. 

—  de  loa  Kooarabes 
369. 

—  de  las  Kin&a  363. 

—  de  los  Reyes  360. 

—  de  los  Socretoe 
864. 

—  del  Tribunal  360. 
San  Francisco,  Con- 

vento  de  366. 
Santa  Maria,  Oiurch 

of  365. 
Sepulchral     Chapel, 

Royal  360. 
Sisters,  Room  of  the 

Two  361. 
Torre  del  Agua  366. 

—  del  Candil  366. 

—  de  la  Cautiva  366. 

—  de  Comarea  358. 

—  de  las  Damas  365. 

—  del  Homeni^e  354. 

—  de  las  Infantas 
366. 

—  de  Peinador  364. 

—  de  los  Picoa  366. 

—  Quebrada  854. 

—  de  la  Vela  364. 
Torres  Barm^as  352. 
Viadueto  368. 
Zaguan  862. 


INDEX. 


601 


Gramada  :  n 

Alhdndiga  342. 
Al)lbe  de  Lluyia  86 
Antequerela  334. 
Assabica,  Monte  AValle 

de  la  849. 
Audiencia  342. 
Bafiuelo  342. 
Barranco   de  Fuente 

Pena  343. 
Bibanejcde  349. 
Bibarrambla  337. 
Bibataubin,  Castillo  de 

847.  348. 
Bomba  Mill  349. 
Botanical  Garden  347. 
,  Bull  Ring  382.  345. 
Calderon,  Villa  366. 
Calle  de  Qomdres  851 

—  de  Mendez  Nunez 
342. 

Gamine  de  los  NeTeros 
849. 

—  del  Saero  Monte  348. 
Campillo  347. 
Campo  de  los  M^ire» 

349.  366. 

—  del  Triunfo  345. 
Capilla  Real  34a 
Gapitanfa  General  847. 
Carrera  de  Darro  842. 

—  de  Genii  386.  347. 
Gartuja  845. 

Casa  de  Ayuntamiento 
336. 

—  de  Castril  343. 

—  de  las  Gallinas  8 

—  del  Cabildo  Antigua 
341. 

—  del  Carbdn  342. 

—  del  Ghapiz  848. 

—  del  Gallo  344. 

—  de  los  Tiros  847. 
Cathedral  337. 

Cave   Dwellings  343. 

849. 
Cementerio  368. 
Cerca  del  Obispo  344. 
Cerro  del  Sol  349.  367. 
Cbancilleria  342. 
Churra  334. 
City  Wall,  Moor.  844. 
Colegio  de  laCompania 

de  Jesiis  346, 

—  de  las  Escuelas  Pias 
348. 

Convento  deCarmelitas 
Decalzadas  347. 

—  de  San  Alfonso  Ma- 
ria de  Liguori  843. 

Basilio  348. 

Francisco  865. 

Jerdnimo  346. 


Gbanada: 
Convento  de  Santa  Cruz 
347. 

Isabel  la  Real  344. 

Cruz  Blanca  845. 

—  de  Mondejar  352. 
Cuarto  Beal  de  Santo 

Domingo  817. 
Cuesta  del  Cbapiz  843. 

—  del  Eey  CMco  348. 
349. 

D&r  al-Wid  36S. 
Engl.   Church  Service 

m. 

Excursions  368. 
Fuente  del  Avellano 
348. 

—  de  la  Bomba  848. 
Generalife  867. 
Gitanos,  or 
Gypsies  343. 
Hospital  Real  de  De 

mentes  345. 

—  de  San  Juan  de  Dios 
346. 

—  de  San  Ldzaro  345. 
Jesuit  Noviciate  316. 
Lonja  341. 
Mariana  Pineda,  Mon. 

of  345.  847. 
Martires,  Los,  Villa  366. 
Mauror  334. 
Mercado  337. 
Miradores  887. 
Monte  Claro  344. 
Museo  Provincial  336, 
Nuestra  SeSora  de  las 

Angustias  848. 
Palacio  de  los  Alizares 

368. 

—  Arzobispal  337. 

—  de  Generalife  367. 
Paseo  della  Bomba  848. 

—  del  Sal<5n  348. 

—  del  Viol6n  848. 
Plaza  de  Bibarrambla 

837. 

—  de  Mariana  347. 

—  Nueva  342. 

—  de  Prim  336. 

—  de  S.  Domingo  347. 

—  de  Toros  332.  345. 
Plazuela  de  las  Pasie- 

gas  337.  340. 
Puente  del  Cadf  342. 

—  de  Genii  34S. 

—  Verde  349. 
Puerta  Bibataubin  347. 

—  de  Elvira  345. 

—  de  Hierro  340.  366. 

—  de  los  Molinos  349. 

—  Mondita  345. 

—  de  las  Orejas 


Gbanada : 
Puerta  Beal  336.  347. 

—  del  Sol  852. 
Reducto  de  los  France- 
ses 349. 

Roman  Street  343. 
Rondilla  348. 
Sacro  Monte  343. 
Sagrario  340. 
San    Ant6n    el   Viejo, 
Ermita  849. 

—  Cecilio  344. 

—  Cristdbal  345. 

—  Juan  de  los  Reyes 
343. 

—  Miguel  el  AKo  344. 

—  Nicoljis  3U. 

—  Pedro  y  San  Pablo 
343. 

—  Salvador  344. 

—  Sebastian,   Ermita 

Santa  Ana  842. 

—  Elena,  Ermita  863. 

—  Maria  Magdalena 
847. 

—  Maria  de  la  0  340. 
Santas  Cuevas  344. 
Santo  Domingo  347. 
SiUa  del  Moro  368. 
Theatres  332.  347. 
Torres  Bermejas  352. 
Ultimo   Suspiro   del 

Moro  336.  349. 

University  846. 

Zacatin  342. 
Granada,  La  229. 
— ,  Vega  of  331. 
Granadilla  449. 
Gran^tula   de  Calatrava 

301. 
Grande,  Sierra  307. 
— ,  the  306. 
Granen  180. 
Granena  214. 
Granenina  214. 
Granja,    La  (chat,   near 

Madrid)  120. 

—  (Leon)  480. 

—  (Portugal)  565. 
de  Rocamora  283. 

Granjuela  304. 
Granoll^r8delVall^sl91. 
Grivalos  176. 
Grazalema  431. 
— ,  Sierra  de  370. 
Credos,  Sierra  de  45. 443. 

445. 
Grijota  473. 
Grilos  519. 
Grin  on  446. 
Gris^n  168. 
Gros,  Cape  230. 


602 


INDEX. 


Qrosa,  Sieir*  Q70.  379. 
OuftdAin,  the  387.  IXl. 

427. 
Onadajox  804. 
— ,  the  8U7.  819. 
Qaad«I^ar»  168. 
GuadaUviar,  tbe  241. 254, 
Guadalbayoa,  Sierra  de 

304. 
Qaadalcanal  459. 
Guadal  Canal  804. 
Guadalenaa,  Debesa  de 

468. 
Quadaleto,  the  869.  481. 
Ouadaleyin,  the  870. 
Oaadalhorce,  the  8iO.  S.-S. 
Guaualmedina,  tbe  8*22. 
Ouadalqaivir,    tbe    294. 

302.  8^2.  469. 
— ,  Marismas  del  427. 425. 
Guadalupe  448. 
— ,  Ermita  A  Fuerte  de  9. 
—,  Sierra  de  448. 448. 451. 
Ouadam6r  151. 
Guadarrama  52. 

—  the  60.  445. 
— ,  Puerto  de  62. 

— ,  Sierra  de  46.  62.  445. 
Guadarrduque,  the  872L 
Guadiana,   the  801.  804. 

448.  468. 
~,  Vega  del  457. 
Goadiaro,  the  872. 
Guadiato,  the  803. 
Guadix  299. 

—  el  Vicjo  299. 
Gualba  191. 

Guara,  Sierra  de  161.  178. 

179. 
Ouarda  573.  564.  611. 
Guardia,  La  178. 
Guardunha.  Serra  511. 
Guarnizo  42. 
Guaro,  Sierra  de  821. 
Guarrazar  151. 
Guarroman  302. 
Giiejar  8(38. 
Guenes  45. 
Guernica  20. 
Guevara,  Casas  de  297. 
•^,  Castle  of  15. 
Guevora,  the  457. 
Guiamets  182. 
Guib  191. 
Guillarey  498. 
Gulmaraes  584. 
Guip6zcoa,  Prov.  2.  9. 
Guitiriz  482. 
Gujuli,  Montana  de  26. 
Gurb  191. 

Babana  198. 

Hacbo,  Sierra  del  320. 


Berdeto,  the  288. 

Baro  178. 

Hellfn  286. 

Henaree,  the  162. 

Hendaye  9. 

Berae  44. 

Hercules,  Pillars  of  876. 

875.  880. 
-,  Grotto  of  886. 
Berguijaela  449.  473. 
Hermosa,  Col  de  la  279. 
Hemani  13. 
Uerrera  41. 
Herrernela  461. 
Bigu^r,  Cape  9. 
Higueruela  881 
Bgate  298. 

Uiaojosa  del  Daque  304. 
Hispalis  894. 
Hontoria,  the  51. 
Horadada,  La  17. 
Homa  166. 
Homachuelos  804. 
BorU  192. 

Bortales,  Salinas  de  431. 
Botpitalet  238. 

—  de  Uobregat  228. 
Bostalrich  190. 
B'lya,  La  179. 
Boyo,  the  820. 

Bos  de  Anero  44. 
Huarte  176. 
Buelgas.  Las  34. 
Buelva  423. 
Huercal-Overa  296. 
Huertas  242. 
-,  Cabo  de  las  280. 
flnerva,  the  172. 
Bnesca  179. 
Huete  276. 
Huetor  330.  849.  368. 

—  Santillan  300. 
flu^var  423. 
Humanes  154.  446. 
BusiUos  40. 

Ibaisabal  21. 
Ibi  274. 

Idiazi&bal,  Puerto  de  14. 
[greja  Nova  5^8. 
Igualada  229.  214. 
Igueldo,  Monte  13. 
Ilerda  215. 
Iliberis  331. 
Ilissa  304. 
IlUn-Cebolla  445. 
Ulescas  445. 
Illiberis  186. 
mora  380. 
Infantas,  Las  803. 
Infiemo,  Valle  de  368. 
iQfiesto  44.  489. 
Inoso  25. 


Ipenarrieta,  Caat.  de  14. 

Irdo  178. 

Irimo,  MoBte  14.  19. 

Irta,  XoBtei  de  246. 

IrAn  9. 

Irurzun  14. 

Isla  Mayor  290. 

-  Verde  878. 
ItaUca  421. 
Iturissa  18. 
Izarra  25. 

Jabalcnz,  the  80^. 
— ,  Banos  de  308. 
Jabali  l^aevo  286. 

—  Viejo  286. 
Jabalquiato  302. 
Jaca  179. 
Jac6n  868. 
Jadraque  164. 
Ja^n  806. 

— ,  Prov.  802. 
— ,  Sierra  de  306. 
Jaiiiquiv^l,  the  9. 
Jal6n,  the  166.  174.  273. 
Jamor  Valley  540.  541. 
Jaraco  271. 

,  the  271. 
Jaraicc^jo  447. 
Jaralambre,  Sierra  de  251. 
Jarama,  the  101. 123. 152. 

275. 
Jarana,  Sierra  de  300. 
Jaraadilla  446. 
Jdtiva  269.  274. 
Javalcdn,  the  298. 
Jivea  278. 
Jer€sa  271. 
Jerez  de  la  Frontera  428. 

426. 
J^rica  261. 
Jer6nimos,  Corta  de  los 

426. 
Jijona  275. 
Jiloca,  the  156. 
Jimena  de  la  Frontera 

372. 
Jimera  872. 
Joyosa,  La  174. 
Jticar,  the  241.  26S.  276. 
•luliobriga  177. 
Juncal  686. 
Juneda  238. 
Junqueira  584.  640. 
Jurdes,  the  449. 
Justibol  173. 
Justicia  868. 
Juyi  188. 

Lacera,  Sierra  279. 
Laguna  Salada  279.  830. 
Ligosa  481. 
Lanjaron  869. 


INDEX. 


603 


L^picbe,  Puerto  301. 

Larraga  1T7. 

Lastanosa  ISO. 

Lavradio  6i6. 

Lavrao,  Serra  da  564. 566. 

Lebrija  42S. 

Lega,  the  583. 

—  da  Palmeira  583. 

Legamarejo  126. 

Legan^s  445. 

Legazpia  14. 

Legorreta  14. 

Leiria  552. 

Lemon  a  20. 

Lemos  481.  491. 

Leon  474. 

— ,  Kingdom  of  5. 

— ,  Isla  de  386.  433. 

L^rida  216.  180.  238. 

Lerfn  177. 

Lezama  25. 

Lezenbo  510. 

Lezirfas,  the  513. 

Lexo-Renterfa  10. 

Li  bar,  Sierra  de  372.  370. 

Librilla  297. 

Limpsias  44. 

Linares  802.  485. 

Linea  de  la  Concepcion. 

La  380. 
Lippe,  Forte  de  509. 
Lisbda  518. 
Lisbon  514. 

Academia  Bea]  das 
Sciencias  527. 

Ajuda,  Palace  of  535. 

Alameda  de  8ao  Pedro 
de  Alcantara  524, 

Alci&ntara  534. 

— ,  the  514.  533.  • 

Alfandega  5<0. 

-^  Grande  531. 

Aljube  528. 

Almafala  529. 

St.  Anthony  of  Padua, 
House  of  527. 

Aqueducfo    das  Aguas 
Livres  626. 

Archivo  Oeral  527. 

Arsenal  530. 

Asvlo  de  D.  Maria  Pia 

m. 

Aterro  534. 

Avenida  da  Liberdade 

522. 

Baixa,  Gidade518.621. 
Bankers  517. 
basilica  do  88.  Oora^ao 

de  Jesus  526. 
Baths  516.  ■ 
Beer  Houses  516. 
Belem,  Palace  of  535. 
— ,  Tower  of  538. 


Lisbon: 
Bemposta,  Palace  of 

Bibliotheca  Publica 

523. 
Booksellers  616. 
Botan.  Garden  525. 

(Belem)  535. 

Buenos  Ayres  618.  525. 

Bull  Ring  517.  539. 

Cabs  516. . 

Caes  de  Golumnas  521. 

Caf^s  615. 

Gamara  Municipal  531. 

Gampo  dos  Martyres  da 

Patria  622. 
Carmo  622. 
Gasa  dos  Bicos  531. 

—  dos  Diamantes  531 

—  das  Janellas  Yerdes 
532. 

—  da  Moeda  531. 

—  Pia  536. 
Gastello  de  Sao  Jorge 

Cathedral  627. 
Cemeteries  626.  530. 
Gemiterio  AliemSo  526, 

—  dos  Inglezes  526. 

—  Occidental  526. 

—  Oriental  630. 
Circuses  617. 

Coach  Houses,  Royal 

536. 
Colegio  Brasileiro  534. 
Consulates  517. 
Cortes,   Palace  of  the 

527. 
Cruz  de  Pedra  630. 

—  dos  Quatro  Gamin- 
hos  630. 

Custom  House  520. 
Deposito  do  Alyiella 
530. 

—  das  Carruagens  Rea- 
les  536. 

Druggists  616. 
Elevadores  615. 
Embassies  517. 
English  Cemetery  526. 

—  Church  517. 

—  College  527. 

—  Factory,  Hospital  of 
the  526 

Escola  Medica  622. 
Estrada  da  CircumTal- 

lacao  519. 
--  Militar  519. 
Estrella  Church  626. 
Exchange  (Bolsa)  520. 
Fortifications  519. 
Forts  619. 
Foundling  Hospital  524. 


Lisbon  : 
Fragoso,  Monte  620. 
Goods  Agents  517. 
Govemo  Civil  623. 
Graja,  Convent  of  529. 
Gun  Foundry  530, 
Harbour  519.  534. 
Hospital  dos  Alienados 
522. 

—  of  the  English  Fac- 
tory 626. 

r-  de  Rilhafolles  622. 

—  de  Sffo  Joi^  622. 
Hotels  514. 

Igreja  do  Carmo  622. 

Irish  Dominicans, 
Gonv.  A  Coll.  of  the 
531. 

Jeronymos   de  Bel^m, 
Convento  dos  536. 

Junqueira  534.  540. 

Junta  do  Gr^dito  Pub- 
lico 520. 

Largo    da   Bibliotheca 
623. 

—  do  Carmo  522. 

—  do  Gorpo  Santo  531. 

—  das    Duas    Egrejas 
522. 

—  do  Limoeiro  528. 

—  do  Municipio  531. 

—  das  Necessidades 
533. 

—  do  Pelourinho  631. 

—  doPrincipeReal525. 

—  do  Rato  625. 

—  de  Sao  Bento  527. 

—  de  Santos  532. 
Lasareto  64i0. 
Limoeiro  628. 
Lisboa  Occidental  518. 

—  Oriental  518.  527. 
Loreto,  Church  of  522. 
Madre  de  Deus,   con- 
vent 530. 

MSe  d'Agua  525. 
Marine  Arsenal  531. 

—  Hospital  529. 
Market  621. 
Memoria  Church  535. 
Mercado  521. 

—  de  24  de  Julho  534. 
Ministries  530.  621. 
Mint  531. 
Monumento  dos 

Restauradores  dePor- 
tugal  522. 
Museu  Colonial  624. 

—  Industrial    e   Com- 
mercial 588. 

—  Kacional  das  Bellas 
Artes  633. 

—  Naval  531.  . 


604 


INDEX. 


LiSBoir : 
MiMena,  Anatom.  S22. 
— ,  Arcbttolog.  632. 
— ,  Artillery  MO. 
— ,  Ethnogr&ph.  697. 
—y  Geolog.  627. 
^y  Industrial  688. 
— ,  Natural    History 

&26. 
— ,  Naval  531. 
— ,  Prehistoric  627. 
Naval  Academy  631. 
Necessidades  Palace 

6S3. 
Nossa  Senhora  da  Con 

ceifio  Velha  631. 

das  Chagas  521. 

di^  Encarna(ao 

622. 

da  Graf*  529. 

-i  •—  do  Monte  629. 
das  Necessidades 

633. 
da  Penba  da 

Franca  530. 

—  —  do  Vencimento 
522. 

Novo  Betiro  535. 
Observatorio  Astrono- 
mico  525. 

—  Heteorologico  526. 
Oliflipo  519. 

Pa^o  da  Alcagova  523. 
-^  de  Belem  535. 

—  das  Necessidades 
633. 

—  de  8So  Bartholomen 
528. 

Palacio  das  Cortes  527. 

—  da  Moeda  228. 

—  Real  633. 
Parliament,  House  of 

527. 
Pantheon  629. 
Pasaeioda£8trella526. 
Pelourinho  631. 
Penitenciaria  Central 

522. 
Photographs  616. 
Physicians  516. 
Picadeiro  636. 
Picture  Gallery  532. 
Polytechnic  Institute 

525. 
Post  Office  515. 
Praca  das  Amoreiras 

525. 

—  d'Armas  533. 

—  de  Lniz  de  Cam5e8 
523. 

—  do  Commercio  520. 

—  de  Dom  Fernando 
535. 


LisBov: 
PracA  de  Dom  Pedro  IV . 
621. 

—  doi  Toaros  617. 
Praia  de  Janauelra635. 
Prisons  532.  528. 
Quarries  634. 
QainU  de  Baixa  635. 

—  de  Nova  Cintra639. 
Railway  SUtions  514. 

521.  530.  632.  534. 
Restaurants  615. 
Rocfo,  O  621. 
Rua  de  Alttndega  531. 

—  Augusta  621. 
,  Areo  da  621. 

—  do  Carmo  622. 

—  da  Bscola  Polytecb- 
nica  526. 

—  Garrett  622. 

—  Nova  da  Estrella 
626. 

do  Almada  522. 

—  d'Ouro  621. 

—  da  PraU  521. 

—  de  8So  Roque  524. 

—  Sareiva  de  Carval 
ho  526. 

—  do  Sol  do  Rato  526 

—  24  de  Julho  634. 
Santa  Cn.ta  de  Hiseri 

cordia  024. 
->  CruxdoCa8tello528. 

—  Engraeia  529. 

—  Izabel  526. 

—  Haria  da  Belem  637. 
Santo  Amaro,  Ermida 

534. 

—  Antao  532. 

—  Antonio  da  S^  527 
Sao  Ben  to.  convent  527. 

—  Jos(5  635. 

—  Mamede  626. 

—  Juliao  581. 

—  Roque  624. 

—  Thiago  538. 

—  Vicente  de  Fora629. 

,  Mosteiro  de  529. 

8^  Patriarchal  527. 

Shops  516. 

Sociedade   de  Geogra- 

phia  624. 
Statue  of  CamSes  523. 

—  of  Joseph  I.  621. 

—  of  Magalhaes  527. 
--  of  Peter  IV.  521. 

—  of  SidaBandeira534. 

—  of  Terceira  534. 
Steamers  616. 
Street  Scenes  617. 
Tagus,  the  618. 
Terreiro  do  Paco  520. 
Theatres  517.  621.  523 


LiSBOV; 
Tobacco  515. 
Torre   de  SSo  Vicente 

538. 

—  do  Tombo  537. 

Town  Hall  531. 

Tramwaye  516. 

Tribunal  Supremo  520 

Water  Conduite  525. 
530. 

Weapon  Factory  530. 
Lisbon,  Bay  of  513.  513. 
Livra$So  5d6. 
LlansiL  187. 

Llena,  Sierra  de  la    182, 
Llerena  459. 
— ,  Puerto  de  459. 
Llevaneras  193. 
Llinis  191. 
Llobregat,  the   183.  197. 

220. 

—  Menor,  the  187. 
Llodio  j24. 
Lodosa  177. 
Loaches  162. 
Logrono  177. 
Logrosan  418. 
Loja  330. 

Lomas  de  los  NiSos  279. 
Lombo  do  Tejo,  Mouchao 

de51B. 
Lopin  181. 
Lora  del  Rio.  304. 
Lorca  297. 
Lorcha  272. 
Lorqni  286. 
liOsa-Navas    de    Riofrio. 

La  62. 
Lourenco  do  Bugio,  Fort 

541. 
Loures  539. 
Louza,  Serra  de  564. 
Lozoya,  the  93.  122. 
Lucena  (Castdlon)  217 

—  (Andal.)  307. 
— ,  Sierra  de  306. 
Luceni  174. 
Luchana  24. 
Lugar  Nuevo  447. 
Lugo  481. 

— ,  Province  461. 

—  de  Llanera  489. 
Lugones  489. 
Lul^  649. 
Lumbreras  298. 
Lumiar  699. 
Luna  174. 
Luque-Baena  807. 
Lusitania  504.  442. 
Luyando  24. 
Luzo  673. 

Hach^nudo  430. 


INDEX. 


605 


Machichaco,  Gabo  90. 
Madera,  Sierra  de  la  283. 
Madero^  Sierra  del  176. 
Kadrid  63. 

Academia  de  Bellas  Ar- 
tes,  Beal  66. 

—  EspaSola,  Beal  69. 
->  de  la  Historia  107. 
Ambulance  Stations  56, 
Archivo  de  la  Corona 

97. 

—  Historico  Nacional 
90. 

Arguellea  101. 

Armerfa  97. 

Arroyos  66. 

Art  Exhibitions  92. 

Asilo   de   San  Bernar- 
dino 101. 

Antos  de  F^  102. 

Ball  Games,  Basque  58. 

Banco  de  Espana  67. 

Banks  57. 

Basilica  de  Nuestra 
Senora  de  Atocha 
107.    . 

Baths  66. 

Beer  Houses  54. 

BibliotecaNacional  90. 

Bolsa  de  Gomercio  68 

Booksellers  57. 

Botanic  Garden  83. 

Bridges  66. 

British  Embassy  94. 

Buen  Betiro  Park  84. 

—  Suceso,   Iglesia  de 
60. 

Bull  Bing  58. 
Caballerizas  y  Cochera 

Beales  99. 
Cabs  55.  53. 
Gaf^s  54. 

Gaja  de  Ahorros'94. 
Calatravas,  Iglesia  de 

las  66. 
Calderon,  House  of  the 

Death  of  103. 
Calle  de  AlcaU  66.  86. 

—  de  Alfonso  XII  85. 

—  de  la  Almudena  103. 

—  del  Aren^l  94. 

—  de  Atocha  106. 

—  de  Bail^n  \6.  104. 

—  deEinbajad<5resl05. 

—  Mayor  102. 

—  de  Oldzaga  86. 

—  del  Prado  106. 

—  de  Beina  Cristina 
108. 

—  de  Serrano  86. 

—  de  Toledo  106.  106. 
Oampillo   de  las  Vis- 

tUlas  104. 


Madbxd  : 
Gampo  del  Moro  97. 
Gapilla  de  S.  Isidro  84. 

—  del  Obispo  104. 
Gapitania  General  103. 
Carcel  Modelo  101. 

—  de  Mujeres  94. 
Carnival  58. 
Garrera  de  San  Jerd 

nimo  66. 
Carriages  56. 
Gasa  de  Ayuntamiento 

103. 

—  de  Gampo  108. 

—  de  la  China  86. 101. 

—  Gonsistorial  103. 

—  de  Fieras  84. 

—  de  la  Moneda  86. 

—  Panaderfa  103. 
Gatedral  de  Kuestra 

Sefiora  de  la  Almu- 
dena 99. 
Gementerio  de  la  Sacra- 
mental de  San  Luis 
93. 

—  de  San  Isidro  106. 

—  de  San  Lorenzo  106. 

—  del  SuT  106. 

—  Inglds  105, 
Cervantes^  House  107. 
Charitable  Institutions 

57. 
Chemists  66. 
Church  Festivals  68. 
Circuses  58.  67. 
Climate  62. 
Clubs  67. 
Colegio  de  Desempara- 

dos  105. 

—  de  la  Paz  105. 

—  de  Sordo-Mutos  y  de 
Ciegos  93. 

Collections,  etc.  60. 
Concerts  58. 
Confectioners  54. 
Consulates  56. 
Convento  de  las  Salesas 
94. 

—  de  San  Pascudl 
Cortes,  Palace  of  the 

69. 
Cuartel  de  la  Montana 
101. 

—  de  San  Gil  101. 
Deaf-Mutes  A  Blind 

Asylum  93. 
Dentists  66. 
Dep<$sitos  del  Canal  de 

Lozoya  93. 
Deapachos  Centrales 

Direcci6n  General  de 
laDeudaPublical06. 


Madrid  : 
Dos   de   Mayo,   Monu- 

mento  del  67. 
Ecclesiast.Festivals  68. 
Embassies  66. 
English  Church  57. 
Environs  108. 
Equitable  Insurance 

Co.  67. 
Escuela  de  Agricultura 

101. 

—  de  Artes  y   Oflcios 
lOT. 

—  de  Yeterinaria  105. 
Escuelas  de  Aguirre  86. 
Estaci6n  del  Mediodfa 

53.  107. 
Exchange  68. 
Excursions  106. 
Fabrica  de  Tabacos  105. 

—  de  Tapfces  103. 
Foundling  Hospital 

105. 
Fuente  de  Apolo  67. 

—  de  Gib^les  67. 

—  de  Neptuno  68. 
Fuentes  Gem^las  69. 
Furnished  Booms  54. 
Glorieta  de  Bilbao  93. 

—  de  Quevedo  98. 

—  de  San  Bernardo  93. 
Goods  Agents  57. 
Hip<5dTomo  92. 
History  63. 
Horchaterfas  64. 
Horse  Baces  58. 
Hospital  de   la  Latina 

105. 

—  de  Nuestra  Sefiora 
del  Carmen  107. 

—  de  la  Princesa  94. 

—  de  San  Juan  de  Dios 
107. 

Hospitals  56. 

Hotels  53. 

Jardin  botanico  83. 

—  del  Buen  Betiro  57. 
67. 

—  del  Palacio  97. 
Inquisition,  Prison  of 

the  94. 
Library,  Histor.  Acad. 

107. 
— ,  National  90. 
— ,  Boyal  97. 
Lope  de  Vega,  House  of 

1&7, 
,  House  of-  the. 

Birth  of  103. 
Manzanares,  the  62.  66. 

101.  etc. 
Marine  Ministry  100. 

—  Museum  100. 


606 


INDEX. 


MAI>miD: 

Market  106. 
Marriage  Market  S9. 
Masked  Balls  06. 
Medical  Facalty  107. 
Ministerio  de  Fomentu 
106. 

—  de  la  Qobemacidn 
66. 

—  de  Orada  y  Justicia 
94. 

—  de  la  Qnerra  67. 

—  de  Ultramar  103. 
Mint  86. 
Moneloa  101. 
Money  Changers  67. 
Montona  Rasa  84. 
Monte  de  Piedid  94. 
Montserrat,  Convent  of 

94. 
Museo  Antropoldgico 
107. 

—  Arqueologico  86. 

—  deArte  Modemo90. 

—  de  Artillerfa  63. 

—  de  Ciencias  Vata- 
rales  9S. 

—  de  Ingenleros  86. 

—  Naval  100. 

—  .del  Prado  70. 

—  Proto-historico  Ibe- 
rico  86. 

—  de   Seprodncciones 
Artisticas  69. 

—  y  Biblioteca  de  Ul- 
tramar 84. 

Music  67. 

National  Museum  86 

Natural  History  Mu- 
seum 92. 

Newspapers  57. 

Noviciado,  El  94. 

Observatorio  Afltro- 
ndmlco  107. 

Omnibuses  63. 

Palacio  de  la  Biblioteca 
y  Mnseos  Nacionales 

.—  del  Congreso  69. 

—  de  los  Cons^os  103. 

—  del  Cristi&l  84. 

—  del  Daque  de  Osuna 
108. 

»  de  la  Industria  y  de 
las  Artes  93. 

—  de  Mnrga  86. 

—  Pastrana  104. 

—  Reil96. 
Pantedn  Naeional  104. 

.  Parque  de  Madrid  84. 
Pas6o  de  Atocha  107. 

—  de  la  Gastellana  92. 

—  de  las  Delicias  107. 


Madsid  : 

Pa9<o  de  Feraan  NnSes 
8i. 

—  de  la  Florida  101 

—  de  loe  Ocho  HUos 
106. 

—  del  Prado  69.  107. 

—  de  Beeol^tos  86. 

—  de  San  Vicente  101. 

—  de  la  Virgen  del 
Puerto  102. 

Pensions  54. 
Photographs  67. 
Physicians  66. 
Plaza  de  Armas  97. 

—  de  la  Ceb^da  106 

—  de  CoWn  92. 

—  de  la  Gonstitucidn 
102. 

—  de  las  Cortes  6^ 

—  del  Doe  de  Mayo  94 

—  de  la  Independencia 
85. 

—  de  Isabel  II  96. 

—  de  Madrid  67. 

—  Mayor  102. 

—  de  los  Ministerios 
100.. 

—  de  Moros  104. 

—  de  MnriUo  aS. 

—  del  Obelisco  92. 

—  de  Oriente  95. 

—  del  Progreso  108. 

—  del  Bey  67. 

—  de.  San  Marcii&l  101. 

—  de  Santa  Ana  103. 

—  de  Toros  68.  61.  86. 

—  de  la  Villa  103. 
Plazuela  del  Principe 

Alfonso  108. 
Police  Office,  Head  56 
Popular  Celebrations 

Post  Office  56. 

Pdzas  101. 

Pozos  de  Hielo  102. 

Prado  67. 

— ,  Museo  del  70. 

Drawings  82. 

Paintings  70. 

Sculptures  82. 
— ,  Paseo  del  69. 
— ,  Saldn  del  67. 
Prisons  94.  101. 
Processions  68. 
Paente  del  Bey  66. 102. 

—  de  Segovia  66.  102. 

—  de  Toledo  65.  105. 

—  Verde  66.  102. 
Puerto  de  Alcali  85. 

—  Cerrada  106. 

—  de  Hierro  108. 

—  del  Sol  66. 


Madbid  : 
Puerto  de  Toledo   106. 
Qnemad^ro  93. 
Railway  Offices  63. 

—  SUtinns  53. 
Rastro  105. 
Restouraats  54. 
Romerfa  de  San  Isidro 

69. 
Ronda  de  Atocha    107. 

—  de  Vallejas  103. 
Royal  Palace  96. 
San  Andres  lOi. 
de  los  Flamen- 
cos 92. 

—  Antonio  de  la  Flo- 
ridSf  Ermita  102. 

—  Francisco  el  Grande 
104. 

—  Oin^s  94. 

—  Isidro  el  Real  10!^. 
r—  —  del  Campo ,   Br- 

mito  105. 

—  Jerdnimo  el  Real  69. 

—  Jos6  67. 

—  Lorenzo  50. . 
Santo  Tom^  106. 
Savings  Bank,  Manic. 

91. 
Senado  100. 
Shops.  67. 
Situation  62.  66. 
Stables,  Royal  99. 
Statue  of  Bazan  103. 

—  of  Benavente  84. 

—  of  Calderon  106. 

—  of  Cassola  101. 

—  of  Cavanilles  84. 
~  of  Cervantes  68. 

—  of  Clemente  84. 

—  of  Columbus  92. 103. 

—  of  Daoix  A  Velarde 
69. 

—  of  Concha  93. 

—  of  Elcano  108. 

—  of  Espartero  85. 
^—  of  Isabella  the  Cath. 

92. 

—  of  Lagasca  84. 

—  of  Maria  Christina 
69. 

—  of  Mendis^bal  106. 

—  of  Murillo  83. 

—  of  Philipp  III.  102. 
--  of  Philipp  IV.  95. 

—  of  Piqu6r  94. 

—  of  Pont€jos  94. 

—  of  Quer  84. 

—  of  the  Reyes  84.  96. 

—  of  Buia  67. 
Street  Life  60. 
Tapestry   Manufactory 

fie. 


INDEX. 


607 


Mad&id  : 

Tapiceria  97. 
Telegraph  Office  66. 
Telephones  56. 
Theatres  57.  67.  86.  95. 

106. 
Tobacco  64. 

—  Factory  106. 
TorreeiUa,  La  102. 
Torre  delosLujineslOS, 
Town  Hall  103. 
Tramways  65. 
Tranvfas  65. 
University  94. 
Venta  de  Espfritu 

Santo  86. 
Verbenas  69. 
Veterinary  College  106. 
Virgen  de  la  Alma- 

dena,  Church  of  I 

—  del  Puerto,  Ermita 
•  100. 

Water  Beservoirs  93. 

Zoological  Garden  84, 
Madrigal  45. 
Madrina,  La  9. 
Hafra  649. 
Magaceite  431. 
Magacela  454. 
Magaz  18. 

Malabata,  Cape  381. 
Malaga  321. 

Ad  u  ana  326. 

Alameda  324. 

Alcazifcba  327. 

Arco  de  Cristo  827. 

Avenida  de  Pries  327. 

Barrio  de  Capuchinos 
328. 

—  de  la  Malagueta 
328.  327. 

—  de  la  Victoria  323. 
Baths  322. 

Buen  Retiro  828. 
Bull  Ring  322.  327. 
Caleta  323.  328. 
Calle  del  Marques  de 
Larios  325. 

—  Nueva  326. 

—  de  San  Agustin  326. 
Camino  Kueyo327. 328. 
Gasa  de  Ayuntamiento 

326. 
Cathedral  325. 
Cementerio  Ingles  327. 
Cerro  Colorado  328. 327. 
CUmate  324. 
Goncepci<5n,  La  828. 
Consula  328. 
Coracha  327; 
Cortina  del  Muelle  826. 
Cristo  de  la  Victoria, 

El  327. 


Malaga: 
English  Church  322. 


Faro,  the  326. 
Fuente  de  Neptuno  324 
Gibralfaro  327.  322. 
Hacienda  de  San  Jos^ 

Harbour  325. 
HospiUl  Noble  327. 

—  de  Santo  Tomis  326. 
Hoya  323.  321. 
Huelin  323. 
Lighthouse  825. 
Limonar  323.  328. 
Manufactories  823. 
Mercado  325. 
Palacio  Obispal  325 
Paseo  de  la  Alameda 

824. 

—  de  la  Farola  325. 
Perchel  323. 
Plaza  de  la  Constitacion 

325. 

—  de  Riego  327. 

—  de  Toros  322.  327. 
Post  Office  322.  326. 
Puente  de  Tetuan  324 
Paerta  del  Mar  325. 
Sagrario  326. 
Santiago  el  Mayor  326. 
Sea  Baths  322. 
Steamers  322. 
Teatinos  328. 
Theatres  322.  825. 
Torre  de  Vela  327. 
Torrijos'  Monument 

827. 
Trinidad  323. 
Vega  323. 
Wine  Growing  323. 

—  Merchants  322. 
Malaga,  Huya  de  321.  323 
Malagdu  463. 
— ,  Sierra  de  46.  49. 
Malandar,  Punta  del  420. 
Malato  Tree,  the  24. 
Malgrat  192. 
Maliciosa,   Monte   de  lit 

123. 
Malpartida    de    Caceres 

450. 
—  de  Plasencia  448. 
Malvedo  484. 
Malveira  560. 
M^lzaga  20. 
Mancha,  La  276.  300. 
Mangualde  573. 
Manfses  266. 
Manlleu  191- 
Manresa  212. 
Manuel  268. 
Manzanal  Mts.  480. 


Manzaniires  301. 

-,  the    50.   62.  66.  101. 

445. 
Manzaneque  463. 
Manzanil,  the  330. 
Manzanos  17. 
Mar  Menor  290. 
Marao,  Serra  de  588. 
Marbella  821. 
Marchaz,  Sierra  de  448. 
Marchena  387.  319. 
Marcilla  176. 
Marco  586. 

Mariaga,  Montana  de  270. 
Maria  Cristina,  Canal  de 

278. 
Marinha  Grande  562. 
Maridla,  Sierra  de  274. 
Marmelos  SSo  Sebastiao 

540. 
Marmolejo  303. 
Marro,  Castillo  !^24. 
Marron  44. 

Marroqui,  Punta  381. 
Marsa-Falset  182. 
Martigan^a  652. 
Martin  del  Rio  40.  72. 
Martinete  368. 
Martorell  229. 
Martos  306. 
Marvao  451.  510. 
Masalav^s  263. 
Maaanasa  266. 
Masnou  193. 
Mata,  Salina  de  la  283. 
Mats  de  Alcantara,  La 450. 

—  del  Fang  266. 
Mataporqu^ra  41.  484. 
Matapozuelos  19. 
Matar6  193. 
Matas,  Las  50. 
— ,  Monta£as  191. 

—  Verdes  278. 
Matillas  154. 
Matto  de  Miranda  512. 
Mattosinhos  583. 
Mauror,  Monte  333.  352. 
Mayor,  Munte  251. 
Mazanet,  Sierra  de  192. 
Mazarron  245. 
Mealhada  564. 
Meeo  163. 
Medellin  455. 
Mediaconcha  Vallev  42. 
Medina  del  Campo  19.  45. 

61.  464. 

—  de  Rioseco  18. 
Medinaceli  155.     . 
Medinat  az-Zahr&  318. 
Meinedo  686. 
Melgarejo  438. 
Meliana  267. 
Membrljo  451. 


608 


INDEX. 


XendavU  177. 
Menjfbar  302.  306. 
Xequinensa,   Sierra  de 

H^rida  4fi6.  402.  460. 

Mertina  436. 

HetoUinum  456. 

Mlerea  486. 

Miguelturra  301. 

MUareB,  the  241.  247. 

Mljas  321. 

— ,  Sierrade320.321.322. 

Milagro  176. 

Mina  la  Terrible  304. 

Xinas,  Las  461. 

—  del  Mundo,  Las  286. 

—  de  Rio  Tinto  424. 
Hinaya  278. 
MindeUo  583. 
Mingorria  45. 
Mingote  290. 
Minho,  ProT.  565.  586. 
— ,  the  482.  491.  584. 
Ministra,  Sierra  155. 
Mirador,  £1  226. 

—  de  Cristina  126. 
Miraflores,  Cartuja  de  34. 
Miranda,  La  226. 

—  de  Ebro  17.  25.  178. 
Mirandella  587. 
Miravalles  24. 
Miravel  450. 
Mirayete,  Sierra  de  447. 
Mislata  266. 
Mogente  270. 
Mogofores  664. 

Hoita  546. 
Mola,  Monte  182. 
Molar,  Sierra  del  283. 
Molddo  586. 
Molina  286. 
Molinar  44. 
Molin^l  272. 
Molinos,  Sierra  de  277. 

—  Gaadarrama,  Los  52. 
Molina  del  Bey  223. 
MoUedo  42. 
Mollerasa  215. 
MoUet  191. 
Monasterio  de  Piedral56. 
Moncabr^r  274. 
Moncada  192.  211. 
Moncayo,  the  174. 
Monchique,  Baths  and 

Serra  de  548. 
Monda  321. 
Mondariz  493.  494. 
Mondayo,  Sierra  de  28 
Mondego,  the    553.   564. 

5667 
— ,  Campo  de  564. 
Mondragon  16. 
Monduber,  or 


Xondove,  the  271. 
Xonfklco-XnraUat  214. 
Monforte  279. 

—  de  Lames  481.  491. 
Mongat  196. 

Moned,  the  273.  266.  268. 

m. 

Moniatrol  212.  220.  221. 

—  de  BajadeU  214. 
Moi^e,  the  646. 
Moiyot  230. 
Mon6yar  379. 
Monserrate,  Qainta  de 

546. 
MonsoUu  190. 
Montabem^r  274. 
Montablis  42. 
Montagut,  XonUnas  de 

239. 
Montalegre,  Cartuja  de 

193. 
MontaSas  Malas  197. 
Montanche2,Sierra  de448. 

453.  454. 
Montanchuelos  801. 
Montblanch  288. 
Montbny  192. 
Montcau,  Boca  226. 
Mont  d' Baton!  541. 
Monte  Aragdn  446. 

—  daa  Flores  647. 
Montefurado  481. 
Montejaque  373. 
Montejunto,  the  561. 
Montemor  Novo  647. 

—  Velho  664. 
Montera,  Coll  de  227. 
Monte  Beal  663. 
Montesa  270. 
Montes  Claros  548. 
Montgros,  the  226. 
Montijo  467. 
MontiUa  319. 

— ,  Sierra  de  807.  319. 
Montjuich  210. 
Montmeld  191. 
Montoro  303. 
Montsant,  the  182.  184. 
Montseny,  the  190. 
Montserrat,  the  218. 
~,  Monasterio  del  223. 
Montsia,  the  246. 
Montsiat  224. 
Monzalbarba  178. 
Monz6n  180. 

—  de  Campos  41. 
Mora  452. 

la  Nueva  182. 
Moral,  El  "301. 
Morata  167. 
Morell  228. 
Morella  246. 
— .  La  229. 


Xorena,  Sierra  277.  294. 

301.  443. 
Mores  167. 
Moriscos  464. 
Moro,  Boca  del  226. 
Xor6n  de  la  Frontera 

387. 
— ,  Sierra  de  887. 
Mosaoitos,  Venta  de  los 

Mota,'  CasUUo  de  la  13. 
Motril  349.  828. 
Monro,  isl-  44. 
Muchamiei  282.  276. 
Muela  de  Montreviche 

2U. 

-,  Sierra  de  la  167. 
Muelas  de  Carcele'n  378. 
Mugica  30. 
Mngi^eira  640. 
Mala,  Sierra  de  la  386. 
Mulhacen,  Cerro  de  369. 
Monda  321. 
Mundilca  20. 

,  the  20. 
Mnndo,  the  344.  285. 
— ,  Calar  del  244. 
Manorisa  213. 
Mnrcia  286. 

,  Huerta  of  284.  2S6. 

,  ProY.  243.  386. 
Muro  272. 
Muryiedro  349. 
Masa,  Djebel  380. 

KabSo,  the  561. 

N^era  178. 

Nanclares  de  la  Oca  16. 

Naranco  488. 

Ifaya  de  la  A0anci6ii  51. 

—  del  Bey  19. 
Nayacerrada,  Puerto  de 

123. 
Nayalmoral  de  la  Mata 

446. 
Nayalperal  50. 
Il^ayalquejigo  50. 
Nayarre  15.  159.  160. 
Navarrete  178. 
l^ayas,  Vento  de  las  306. 

—  del  Madrono  450. 

—  del  Marques,  Las  50. 

—  de  Biofrio  62. 

—  de  Tolosa,  Las  302. 
Nayazos  432. 
Nayidiello  485. 
Negra,  Pena  336. 
Negro,  Monte  262.  272. 
Neila,  Sierra  de  178. 
Nellas  573. 

Neryion,  the  30.  21.  45. 
Nevada,  Sierra  294.  339. 


INDEX. 


609 


Niepla  423. 

Kieves,  Las  492. 

l^ine  584. 

Niza  510. 

Koain  175. 

Koela  229. 

l^oguera,  the  180.  184, 

NoUa  267. 

Nonaspe  181. 

Nonas.  Las  298. 

11  ossa  Senhora  das  Areias 

565. 

de  Nazareth  552. 

Notr^  Arfan  198. 
Novelda  279. 
Noya,  the  229. 
Nuestra  Se&ora  deAlarcos 

463. 

de  Bellula  191. 

de  CJorredo,  Sierra 

delSO, 

de  la  LuB  450. 

de  las  Nieves  801. 

de  Bequesens  187. 

del  Vinyet  227. 

Nules  248. 
Nullcs  227. 
Numantia  165. 

Oazurza,  Tunnel  of  14. 

Obarenes,  Hontes  17. 

Obejo  303. 

Obidos  551. 

— ,  Lago  d\  561. 

Oca,  the  17. 

Ocana  276. 

Ocata  193. 

Odemira  548. 

Odivellas  639. 

Odres,  the  586. 

Oeiras  541. 

Ojen  321. 

Ojuelos,  Los  387. 

Olacueta  20 

Olaveaga  24.  45. 

Olazagutia.  15. 

Olesa  212. 

Olho  de  Cabra  586,  587. 

Oliana  217. 

Olite  175.     . 

Oliva  272. 

— ,  Lago  de  272. 

Oliyaes  513. 

Olivdres  421. 

Oliveirinha  573. 

Oliveira  do  Bairro  564. 

Oliven^a  458. 

Oiler,  Puig  del  191. 

Olleria  274. 

OUeros  41.  . 

OUoniego  485. 

Olmedo  (Vallad.)  51. 

Olocau  267. 


Clot  188. 
OSa  17. 

the  188. 
Once,  Roca  de  las  290. 
Ondara  272. 
Ontanares  51. 
Ontaneda  44. 
Onteniente  274. 
Ontigola  276. 
— ,  Mar  de  126. 
Onnba  423. 
Oporto  573. 

Academia  577. 

Alfindega  579. 

Armazens  582. 

Associao    Britannica 
579. 

Asylo  de  Hendicidade 

m. 

Athenea  580. 
Avenida  de  Saraiva  de 

Carvalho  581. 
Bull  Ring  575.  578. 
Oadeia  daRela$ao  577. 
Campo  dos  Martyres  da 

Patria  577. 

—  Pcqueno  678. 
Garmo  Church  577. 
Casa  de  Camara  676. 

—  de  Boda  577. 
Cathedral  581. 
Cemiterio     de     Agra- 

monte  578. 

—  dos  Inglezes  578. 

—  do  Frado  do  Repouso 
580. 

City  Hall  576. 

—  Wall,  Old  581. 
Cl^rigos  Church  577. 
Companhia  Horticolo- 

Agricola  578. 
Crystal  Palace  578. 
Custom  House  579. 
English  Cemetery  578. 

—  Church  575.  578. 

—  Factory  House  679. 
Escola-Medica  577. 
Exchange  (Bolsa)  579. 
Foundling    Hospital 

577. 
Garrett,  House  of  the 

Birtb  of  57S. 
Goldsmiths  580. 
Hospital  Militar  578. 

—  de    Santo  Antonio 
da  Misericordia  577. 

Jardim    da   Gordoarfa 
677. 

—  de  SSo  Lazaro  580. 
Largo  da  PoUcia  581. 

—  de    SSo    Domingos 
579. 

—  de  Vifiato  577. 


Baedeker's  Spain  and  Portugal. 


Ofokto : 
Library,  Public  580. 
Mereado  do  Anjo  577. 
Miragaia  579. 
Monte  de'S&o  Nicolau 

682.       ~ 
Museu    Industrial    e 

Commercial  578. 

—  Municipal  577. 
Nossa  Senhora  da  Lapa 

5T7. 
da  Misericordia 

679. 
da  Serra  daPilar 

5S2. 
Opera  House  680. 
Paso  Episcopal  581. 
Palacio  do  Freixo  580. 

—  Real  578. 
Passeio  das  Fontainhas 

580. 

—  das  Virtudes  678. 
Pedro  IV.,    Statue  of 

576. 

—  v.,  Statue  of  530. 
Polytechnic  577. 
Ponte  de  Dom  Luiz  I. 

681. 
Post  Office  574.  530. 
Praca  daiBatalha  680. 

—  de    Carlos   Alberto 
577. 

—  de  Dom  Pedro  570. 

—  do  Peixe  577. 

—  da  Ribeira  579. 

—  dos  Voluntarios  da 
Rainha  577. 

Railway   Stations  573. 

580.  582. 
Rua    do    Bellomonte 

579. 

—  da  Boa  Vista  578. 

—  da  Garvalhosa  678. 

—  Cha  681. 

—  Cima  do  Muro  579. 

—  daft  Flores  579. 

—  das  Fontainhas  580. 

—  dos  Fogueteiros  578. 

—  do     Infante    Dom 
Henrique  679. 

—  da  RestauraflkO  577. 

—  de  S.  Antonio  530. 

—  de  Sao  JoXo  579. 

—  do  Triumpho  678. 
Santa  Clara  581.  ■ 
Sao  lldefonao  580. 

—  Francisco  579. 

—  Martinho   de  Cedo* 
feita  678. 

—  Pedro  579. 
S^,  the  581. 
Seminario  5^0. 
Steamboats  574. 

39 


610 


INDBX. 


Opobto: 

Thuitrei  675.  660. 

Torre  dot  Gl^rigM  STI. 

Tramwtys  574. 

Tribonfti  577. 

VilU  Nova    de    Oaia 
976.  583. 

Wine-atoreboiiMi  582. 
Ordal,  HontonM  de  239. 
OrdMquelra  551. 
OrduSa  25. 
~,  PefiA  de  36. 
Orenae  491. 
— ,  ProYinee  40t 
Orejo  44. 
Oretam  901. 
Orgftfia  217. 
Orgaz  452. 
Oria,  the  18. 
OiibueU  284. 
-,  Salina  de  283. 
— ,  Sierra  de  284. 
Ormaiztegui  14. 
Oroel,  Pena  de  161.  173. 
Oropesa  (Gastellon)  247. 
—  (Talavera)  44fi. 
Orozco,  the  24.  25. 
Ortigosa  51. 
0»ca  179. 
Osebe  485. 
Oaera  181. 
Osorno  41. 
Osana  886. 
Ota  513. 

Otero  de  HerreroB  52. 
Otger  224. 
Otzaurte  14. 
Ourem  553. 
Ourique  548. 
Oateiro  m,  548. 
Oyir  665. 
Oviedo  48i. 
~,  Proviace  461. 

Pacheoo  290. 

Paco  d'Arcos  540. 

Padrdn  495. 

pD^sola  423. 

Palz  do  Vlnbo  (Oporto) 

586. 
Pajaiito,  Penas  dc  248. 
Palacios  427. 
Pilamos  188. 
Palanoia,    the  241.  248. 

251. 
Palanquinos  473. 
Palan-del-Vidre  186. 
Palautordera  191. 
Palencia  39.  478. 
— ,  Province  18. 
Palla  586. 
"alleji  228. 

Ima,  La  290. 


Palma  del  Oondado,   La 

423. 
—  del  Bio  a04. 
Palmaa,  Desierto  de  lae 

247. 
Palmella  646. 
Palo  328. 
Palomar  266.  819. 
Palomaa,    Venta  de  las 

306. 
Palot  delaFroiitera424. 
—,  Cabo  de  299. 
Pampaneira  869. 
Pampeltuia  176. 
Pampilbosa  564. 
Pamplona  175. 
Panad^fl,  Monte  230. 
Paneorbo  17. 
— ,  Garganta  de  17. 
— ,  Sierra  de  17. 
Pandera,  La  305. 
Panoiae  648. 
Panof  366. 

Pantoja  y  Alameda  452 
Papuraa,   Sierra  de  laa 

Papfol  228. 
Paracuellot  de  la  Bibera 

167. 
Para(d93  887. 
Paraiao,  Valle  del  212 
Parapanda,  Sierra  de830. 
Parchite  3(>9. 
PardQ,  El  106.  50. 
Parede  541. 
Paredea  de  Kava  473. 
Parga  482. 

Parral,  Honaat.  del  120 
Paaajea  10. 
Pa#eo   de  San  Qregorio 

492. 
Paamd  174. 

Paso  de  Tret  Ponta  217, 
Paatris  181. 
Paular,  El  122. 
Payalvo  561. 
Peares,  Los  491. 
Pederoalea  20. 
Pedra  de  Alvidrar  545. 
Pedralbes,  Monaat.  211. 
Pedrera  386. 
Pedro  Abad  803. 
Pedrochea  454. 
Pedrola  174. 
Pedroto  (Salam.)  464. 
— ,  Monte  500. 
—,  Sierra  del  904.  454. 
Pedroucoa  640.  539. 
Pego  272. 
Pegffes  547. 
Pela,  Sierra  .464. 
Pena,  Castello  da  544. 
Pena,  La  329. 


Pena  Goloaa  347. 

—  de    lot    Bnamoradoa 
329. 

—  de    Santo   Domingo, 
Sierra  de  161.  173. 

Penafiel  18. 
Penaflor804. 
Penalara,  Pico  de  122. 
Penaranda     de      Bra«&> 

monte  471. 
Penarroya  804. 
Penba  Verde  545. 
Peniche  561. 
—,  Cape  561. 
Penfacola  246. 
Peralada  187. 
Perdigner.  lala  280. 
Pereliu,  Gaatillo  de  239. 
Pemea  580. 
Pero  Negro  650. 

—  Pinbeiro  546. 
Perplgnan  186. 
Pertbna.  Col  de  187. 
Peso  461.  1 

—  da  Begua  586. 
Peaquera  42. 
Petrel  279. 

Pheaaanta,.  lale  of  9. 
Piat  543. 

Picacho  de  la  Veleta368. 
Picamoizons  233.  237. 
Picotoa,  the  54J5. 
Piedra  Encantada  270. 
Hedrebita  17. 
Pila,  Sierra  de  la  286. 
Piloa  272. 

Pimentel,  Torre  de  822, 
Pina  de  Ebro  181. 
Pinal,  Montanaa  del  428. 
Pineda  192. 
Pinhal  Novo  546. 
PinhSo  587. 
Pinhel  578. 
Pino,  Monte  251. 
Pinoa  368. 

—  Puente  381. 
Pinto  275. 

Pituerga.  the  18.  36.  41. 
Pizarra  820. 
Placencia  20. 
Plana-Picamoixons  23S. 
Plantio,  El  50. 
Plaaencia  449. 

—  de  Jaldn  168. 

— ,  Llano  de  157.  174. 
Plencia  24. 
Pobea  25. 
Pobia  227. 
Poblet  238. 
PoceirSo  547. 
Pocinho  687. 
Pocito,  Sierra  de  453. 
Poja  do  Bl«tpo  519. 


INDEX. 


611 


Pola  de  Lena  485. 

—  de  Gordon  484. 
Polinino  180. 
Pomb^  568. 
Ponferrada  481. 
Pons  217. 

Ponte  do  Lima  585. 

—  de  Maria  Pia  565. 

—  de  Beguengo  513. 

—  de  86r  510. 
Pontevedra  494. 
— ,  Province  461. 
Pontdn  de  la  Oliva  93. 
Poqiieira  Valley  369. 
Porcalhota  541. 
Porman  245. 
Ponino  493. 
PorUooeli,  Cartuja  267, 
Portalegre  610. 

— ,  Serra  de  610. 
Porto0  de  Bodao  511. 
Portazgo  del  Puerto  329. 
Port-Bou  187. 

—  Vendres  187. 
Porto  (Oporto)  573. 
Portugal  501. 
Portugalete  24. 
Portua,  Col  de  187. 
Posadas  304. 
Pdtries  272. 
Pousa  492. 
Povoa  513. 
— ,  Mouchao  de  513. 
~  da  Galega  540. 

—  de  Varsim  583. 
Povos  513. 
Poaildez  19. 
Pozazal  41. 
Pozo  Canada  285. 
Pozos  de  Anibal  302. 
Pozuela  428. 
Pozuelo  50. 
Pr^anoB  17. 
Pradell  182. 
Prades,    Sierra   de   213. 

238. 
Prado  del  Bey  431. 
Pragal  540. 
Praia,  (on  the  Tagus)511. 

—  (Oporto)  5S3. 

—  das  Macas  540. 
Prat  de  Llobregat  236. 
Premiil  de  Dalt  193. 

—  de  Mar  193. 
PjFlorato,  £1  182. 
Proserpina,  Lago  de  457. 
Prugo,  Sierra  de  330. 
Puda,  La  212. 

Puebia  de  A^ganzdn  16. 

—  de  Brollon  481. 

—  de  la  Calzada  457. 

—  de  Hijar  181. 

—  Larga  268. 


Puebia  de  Bugat  274. 

—  de  San  JuliiCn  481. 

—  de  Valverde  251. 
Pueblo  junto  a  C<Sria425. 

—  Nuevo  193.  210. 
Puente  Areas  494. 

—  de  Alba  484. 

—  de  Alcon^tar  450. 
del  Arzobispo  446. 

—  del  Diablo  217.  229. 
de  Duero  18. 

—  de  los  Fieros  485. 
Oenil  319.  307. 
del  Lladoner  228. 

—  Zuazo  434. 
Puentes,  Pantano  de298. 
Puercas,  Las  436.  386. 
Puerto.  El  432. 

—  de  Bejar  472. 

—  LeizSes  583. 

—  Beal  438. 

—  Serrano  481. 
Puertollano  453. 
Puig  252. 
Puigcerda  217. 
Puigvert-Ajrtesa  238. 
Pulgar,  Veata  del  830. 
Punto,  El  275.  151. 
Purchena  298. 
PuruUena  300. 
Puzol  261. 
Pyrenees,  tbe  184.  217. 

duegigal  472. 

Que^o,  Castello  do  583. 

Queluz  de  Baiza  541 

—  Bellas  541. 

—  de  Cima  641. 
Quereno481. 
Quero  277. 
Quinta    da   Bella  Vista 

545. 

—  de  Monserrate  545. 
Quintana  479. 

—  del  Puente  18. 
Quintanapalla  17. 
Quintanilla  de  las  Torres 

41. 
Quintenilleja  18. 
Quintans  564. 
Quinto  18L 
Quita  Pesares  120. 

Bibade  482. 
B4bida,  La  424. 
Bafelbunol  267. 
Rajadell  214. 
Bamalbal  561. 
Ramalbao.,     Qulnta    da 

546. 
Rapfta,  Pico  de  la  251. 

248. 
Baymat  180. 


Beci^o  177. 

Recarei  586. 

Redinha  563. 

Bedonda,  Isla  290. 

Bedondela  403. 

Regoa  586. 

Regordilla,  Barranco  de 

Beinosa  41. 
Reizach  192. 
Remolino  174. 
Renedo  42. 
Renterfa  10. 
R^us  228.  237. 
Beventon,  Puerto  de  122. 
Reyes,  Cald9.s  de  495. 
Ribaforada  175. 
Bibagorza  161. 
Ribarroja  182. 
Bibeira  Beal,  tbe  551. 
Bicla  157. 
Bielves  445. 
Biera  227. 
Bincdn^  Lake  of  319. 

—  de  Soto  176. 
Bio   Frio,  Barranea  del 

329. 

.  Navas  de  52. 

Bio  Tinto  583, 

Mines  424. 

Rioja,  the  177. 
Bipoll  191. 
BipoUet  212. 
Biquelme  289. 
Bitori,  Val  de  191. 
Biudecanas-Botarell  182. 
Bludell6ts   de   la   Selva 

190. 
Riva,"  La  238. 
Blvadivia  491. 
Bobla,  La  41.  484. 
Bobledo  de  Chavela  50. 
Boca,  La  191. 
— -,  Cabo  da  545. 

—  Corba  188. 
Roeaberti  193. 
Roche,  Cape  386. 
Roda,  La  m  320. 

—  de  Bar*  227. 
R<5dao,  Portaa  de  611. 
Rojales-Benijdfar  283. 
Roliga  551. 

Romeral,  Venta  del  906. 
Boncesvalles  165. 
Ronda  370. 

-,  Sertania  d^  369.  370. 

—  la'vi^a  372. 
Rosaa  188. 
— ,  Las  192. 
Rota  426. 
— ,  Castle  157. 
Rozas,  Las  50. 

39* 


612 


INDEX. 


Bua-Petin,  La  481. 
Eobia,  La  868. 
—,  Pcna  279. ' 
RnbUn  481. 
Bueda  de  Jal6n  157. 
Runa  600. 


BabadeU212. 
Sabago  649.  ■ 
Saeavem  513. 
Sacristana,  Cerro   de  la 

452. 
Sacro,  Pico  500. 
S^daba  174. 
Sagra  Sierra  244. 
Sagnnto  248. 
Sahagun  473. 
»$aint  Ube^s  646. 
Salamanca  464. 

Alamedilla   Park  466. 
471. 

Archives  468. 

Ball  Bing  464. 

.  Old  466. 

Calle  del  Prior' 470. 

Casa  de  Ayantamiento 
465. 

—  de  Dcmentes  471, 

—  de  las  Conchae  466. 

—  de   los  Maldonados 
de  Uorillo  471 

—  de  las  Muertea  470. 

—  de  la  Salfna  470. 

—  de  los  Suarez  Solis 
de  Canada  471. 

.  €atedral  Nueva  466. 

—  Vieja  487. 
Gulegio  del  Arzobispo 

471. 

—  de  la.Calatrava  470. 

—  de  la  Companla  466. 

—  de  Nobles  Irlandeses 
471. 

—  de    San  Bartolom^ 
466. 

— •  de  Santiago  Ap6stol 
471. 

—  Viejo  466. 
Convento  de  las  Agtis- 

tinas  Becoldtas  470. 

—  de    DominicHS     de 
Santa  Maria  470. 

.  —  de  la  Vega  471. 

DiputacicStt  Provincial 
470. 
.  Duegas,-Lat  4^0. 

Escuelas  Mayores  468. 

—  Menores  4^. 
Espiritu  Santo,  Ghnrob 

of  471.      . 
Hospital    del.  Estndio 

468. 
i^nsane  Asylum  471. 


Salauavca : 
Institnto    Provincial 

468. 
Honasterio  de  Bemar- 

das  del  Jes6s  471. 
Monument   of   Colam 

bus  470. 

—  of  de  Desa  469. 

—  of  de  Leon  468. 

—  of  de  Soto  469. 
Museum  470. 
Palacio  Episcopal  466. 
~  de  los  Maldonados 

de  Amatos  465. 

—  de  Monterey  470. 
Plaza  del  Coleglo  Vie- 
jo 466. 

—  de  Coldn  470. 

—  Mayor  466. 

—  de  Toros  464. 

—  de  la  Verdura  466. 
Plazuels  de  la  Univer- 

sidad  468. 
Puerta  de  Santo  Tom&s 
470.  471. 

—  de  Zamora  465. 
Roman  Bridge  471. 
San  Benito  471. 

—  £st€ban  469. 

—  Marcos  465. 

—  Martin  466. 
>-  Mateo  471. 
Santa  Maria  de  la  Sede 

467. 
Santiago  Church  471. 
Santo  Domingo  469. 

—  Tom^s  Cantuaren^e 
470.  . 

Seminario-  Coneiliar 
466. 

Torre  del  Clavero  470. 

Town  Walls  471. 

Universidad  468. 

University  Library  469. 

Valdes,  House  of  471. 
Salam6  227. 
Salar  830. 
Salas  179. 
Sal^r  265. 
Salillas  157. 
Salinas,  Las  329. 
-,  Sierra  de  279. 
—  de  L^niz  16.  20. 
Salio,  Monte  246. 
Salor,  the  461.  452. 
Sal<3u  237.  238. 


-,  Cape  238. 
Salteras  423. 
Salvador,  Monte  191. 
Salvatierra  15.  492. 
Sameiro,  Monte  585. 
Samper  de  Calanda  181. 
San  Adrian  177. 


San  Adrian,  Ermita  de  14. 
,  Sierra  de  14. 

—  Agnstln  5M.. 

—  Andres     de    la  Bares 
229.      . 

de  Llevaneras  193. 

de  Palomar  192. 

—  Antonio,  Gabo  273. 

—  -^,  Cerro  de   328. 
Abad  290. 

—  Asensio  178. 

—  Benito    de    Calatrava 
Ixvi. 

—  Boy  de  Llobregat  228. 

—  Carlos   de    la  Bipita 
239 

—  Celoni  Iflil. 

—  Clodio  481. 

—  Crist6bal  41. 
.  Cerro  de  370.  426. 

431.  467.  459. 
^  Est^ban  491.     - 

—  Felipe  Neri  283. 

—  Felfu   de    Canovellas 
191. 

-  de  Guixols  190. 

—  de  Llobregat  228. 
Fernando  4^.  162. 

,  Canal  de  425. 

—  Francisco  890. 
,  Penon  de  368,  369. 

—  Gervasio  de  Casollas 
211. 
-  Guim  214. 

—  Hilario,     Monies    de 
180. 

—  Ignacio  .  de    Loydia 
13. 

-  Ildefonso  120. 

-  Isidro  228. 

del  Campo  421. 

de  Duenas  18. 

-  Jacinto,  Torre  426. 

-  Javier  290. 
>-  Jerdnimo,    Convento 

de  318. 

,  ErmiU  226. 

,  Turd  de  226. 

de  Yuste  447. 

-  Jordi  .183. 

-  Jorge,  Canal  de  278. 

-  — ,  Qolfo  de  289. 

-  Juan,    Barranco     de 
868. 

-  — ,  Castillo  271.  274. 

^  Fuentede  271. 

de    las  ^badesas 

191. 

de   Alicante  282. 

275. 

-  r-    de     Aznalfarache 
423.     . 

de  Moanrrffar  179. 


INDEX. 


613 


San  Juan  de  Nieva  4804 

de  la  PeSa  161. 

del  Puerto  423. 

—  Just  'm. 

—  Iiorenso,     Oerro    de 
178. 

^  MonteSa  de  212. 

— Loorenso  do  Bagio  541. 

—  Li&car  de  Barrameda 
•  428. 

—  -T-  la  Mayor  423. 

—  Marcoa  de  Sena  549. 

—  Martin,  Cabo  274. 

de  Centellas  191. 

de  Sarrooa  229. 

—  Hartinbo    das    Amo- 
reiraa  548. 

—  Miguel,  Gapilla  de  225. 

,  Sierra  de  469. 

de  las  DueSas  481. 

del  Fay  191. 

de  FlttTii  188. 

—  Pablo  372. 

—  Paacual,  Convent©  126. 
,  Sierra  de  282. 

—  Payo  494. 

—  Pedro,  Ermita  de  272. 

,  Penaa  de  285. 

,  Puerto  de  289. 

,  Sierra  de  461.  452. 

— .—  de  Cardena  86. 

de  Oza  482. 

de  Pinatar  290. 

de  Biusech  212. 

de  Tarrasa  212. 

Martir,  Ermita  211. 

—  Pol  de  Mar  192. 

—  Qufrifco  191. 

—  Rafael,  Yenta  de  52. 
■—  Bamdn,  convent  214. 

—  Bomualdo,  Castillo  de 
433. 

—  Boque  373. 

—  Sadurnf,  or 

—  Saturninodel^oya229 

—  Sebaatiin  10. 

—  Torcuato,  Ermita  de 
299 

—  Vicente  178.  461. 

de  Calders  227.  230. 

de  Caatellet  212. 

de  Llevaneras  193. 

del  Easpeig  279. 

,  Sierra  de  446. 

Sanchidriiin  46. 
Sancti  Espiritut  472. 

—  Petri,    Canal  de  386. 
433. 

Sangonera,  the  297. 
Sanliiear  de  Barrameda 


-  la  Mayor  423. 
Sans  228..  j^ 


Sant  Yicdns    de   MoUet 

191. 
Santa  Agueda  16. 

—  Ana,      Ermita     269 
271. 

Sant'  Anna  512. 

Santa  Barbara  245,  246. 

,  Monte  de  13. 

—  Cecilia ,   Capilla  224. 

—  Clara,  Convento  282. 
,  island  13. 

—  ColomadeFarn^s  190. 
217.  248. 
de  Gramanet  192. 

—  Comba  Dao  573. 

—  Cruz  de  Boedo  41.  42. 
—  de  Mudela  301. 
Elena  302. 

—  Eulalia  510. 
Faz,  Convento  282. 

—  F6  331. 
— ,  Castle  214. 
Isabel,  Fuerte  de  10. 

—  Julia  217. 

—  Margarita,  Monte   de 
188. 

—  Maria,  Puerto  de432. 
426. 

-  -  Valle  de  221. 

de  Huerta  156. 

de  meva  51. 

de     Palftutordera 

191. 

'  —  la  Bilbida  424. 

la  Real  41^ 

da  Victoria  666. 

—  Marina,  Monte  500. 
Santander  42. 
Santa  Olalla  17. 
Carmena  445. 

Pola  282. 

,  Cabo  de  280. 

Saintar^m  512. 
Santa  Susana  192. 
Sant^  Creus  227. 

—  Martas  473. 
Santiago  de  Bahamonde 

482. 

—  de  Compostela  496. 
Santibimez  484^ 
Santiponce  421. 
Santo  Agustin  663. 
Santona  44. 
Santos  de  Mjiimona,  Los 

460. 
SantuUano  485. 
Santurce  24. 
Sao  Bartholomeu  de  Mes- 

sines  549. 

-  Domingos  541, 

-  Joi:o  de  Estoril  541. 
da  Foz  582. 

—  Juliao,  Fort  541. 


Sao  Mamede  661. 

,  Serra  de  451.  509. 

510. 
de  Tua  687. 

—  Martinho     do    Porto 
562. 

—  Miguel,  Monte  de  553. 
Pedro  542.  543. 
Bumao  583. 

Saraf  OBsa  163. 
Academia  de  Bellas  Ar^ 

tes  170.      . 
Altav&s  165. 
Arrabal  165. 
Audiencia  170, 
.Bull  Bing  163.  171. 
Calle  del  Coso  169. 

—  de  la  IndependeiLcia 
172. 

—  de  Don  Jaime  L  169. 

—  de  Boda  170. 

—  de  San  Bias  170. 

—  de  San  Pablo  170. 
Campos  Elis^os  172. 
Casa  de  Ayuntamiento 

166. 

—  Blanca  173. 

—  de  los  Gigantes  170. 

—  de  la  Infanta  169. 

—  de  Zaporta  169. 
Castillo  de  la  ATjaferfa 

171. 
Cathedrala  166.  167. 
Coldgio  de  San  Felipe 

Coso,*  the  169. 
Diputaci<5n  Provincial 

169.    . 
Exchange  1B6. 
Fuente   de   la  Sangre 

169. 
Gobierno  Civil  169. 
Hospicio    Provincial 

171. 
LoDJa  166. 
Nuestra  Senora  del 

Portillo  171. 
Ortilla  173. 
Palacio  Araobispal  166. 

—  del  Conde  da  Azarra 
169,  170. 

Paseo  del  Ebro  166. 
Pignatelli's  Statue  172. 
Platen'a  170. 
Plaza  de  la  Constitucion 
169. 

—  del  Mercado  170. 

—  de  Toros  163.  171. 
Puente  de  Piedra  165. 
Puerta  del  Angel  166. 

—  del  Portillo  171. 

—  de  S..Engracia  172. 
San  Fernando  172, 


614 


INDEX. 


Saeagossa  : 
8«a  Joan  dalOB  Ptnetei 
169. 

—  Pablo  170. 

SaaU   KngraeUf  con 
▼ent  173. 

—  F<,  coaTent  170. 
Santas  UaaaA  173. 
Santiago  169. 
Seminario   Coneiliav 

166. 

Seo,  La  166. 

Theatraa  163.  173. 

Torre  NaeTo  170. 

Torrero  173. 

Virgen  del  PUar  167. 

Waterworka  173. 
8ardaSola  313. 
Sarinena  180. 
Sarnadaa  611. 
Sarrii  188.  311. 
Sarria  (Oalicia)  481. 
Sarridn  361. 
Savoia  648. 
Sax  379 

Scipios/  Tomb  of  tbe2aO. 
Seeo,  Rio  346.  831. 
SeouiU  Ferafort  337. 
Segadas,  Laa  486. 
SegMa,  Monte  273. 
Segontia  164. 
Segdrbe  261. 
Segoyia  117.  61. 
— ,  Pinar  de  122. 
Segre,  the  180.  188.  215. 
Segunda  Aguada  434. 
Segura.  the  14.  341.  344. 

m  386.  387.    . 
Selgua  180. 
Selra  338. 

Sentana,  CasUllo  de  368, 
Seo  de  Urgel  317. 
Septimanca  39. 
Sepulcro  de  los  Bacipio- 

neaSdO. 
Serantea,  M ontafta  de  24. 
Serena,  La  461. 
Serin  489. 
Sernache  663. 
Serdn  388. 
Serp,  La  193. 
Serpa  548. 
Sesena  376. 
Seatao  34. 
Sete  Fillaa  304. 
Setelix  217. 
Setenil  869. 
Setiaea,  Pal.  de  544. 
Setubal  646. 
Berille  387. 

Academia    de   Bellaa 
Artee  414. 

Aduana  417. 


Sbvillk  t 
Alameda  de  Htfreulea 

413. 
Alc^sar  867. 
— ,  Gardens  of  the  400. 
Amnaement,  Placea  of 

888. 
Antlquitiea,    Coll.    of 

414. 
Archivo  de  Indias  396. 
Art  Exhibition  883. 
Artillery  ArMsal   417. 
Audiencia  400. 
Banks  888. 
Baths  S8S. 
Barrio  de  loa  Humeros 

416. 

—  de  San  Bernardo  419. 
Biblioteca    Oolambina 

403. 
Boll  Ring  389. 
Caf^a-chanUnta  389. 
Calle  de  Alemanes  401. 
~  de  Alfonso  XII  416. 

—  de   Amor   de   Dios 
413. 

->  de  la  Cuna  413. 

—  del    Gran    Capitan 
403. 

~  de  Santa  Clara  413. 

—  de  las  Sierpes  409. 

—  de  Trajano  418. 
Cannon  Foundry  419. 
Canoa  de  Oarmona  419. 

422. 
Capitanfa    del   Puerto 

418. 
Cartuja  420. 
Casa  de  Ayuntamiento 

409. 

—  del  Duqve  de  Alba 
411. 

—  de  Expoaitoa  412. 

—  Lonja  896. 

—  de  Pilatos  410. 
Casaa  Capitulares  409. 
Cathedral  402. 
Cementerio  de  San  Fer- 
nando 413. 

—  de  San  Joa^  891. 
Church  Feativala  890. 
City  Wall  413. 
Climate  394. 
Clubs  388. 
Colegio  de  San  Miguel 

Conaulado  397. 
Conaula  389. 
Gonvento  de  la  Merced 
414. 

—  de  San  Clemenfe  el[ 
Real  413. 

—  de  San  Jerdnimo  413. 


SsriLLS: 
CooTealo  da  Saata 
C\T%  413. 

Paula  411. 

Griax  del  Gampo  419. 
Cuaa,  La  412. 
Cycliag  Track  390. 418. 
Daoia'  Btatae  414. 
Bag].  Cfaoreh  388.  414. 

—  Prot.  Cemetery  418. 
Feria,  La  361.  412. 
PoundIiBfHospital412. 
Fraocisean   Ooaryent, 

014  409. 
Qiralda  40a 
Hip6dromoS90.  418. 
Horae  Bacea   380.  413. 
Hoapleio    Proriacial 

Hoapital  de  1*  Caridad 
417. 

—  CivU  412. 
Jardines  de   la  Puerto 

de  Jeras  418. 
Joderia  419. 
Loi^a  396. 
Maearana  893. 
Marina  417. 
Matadero  419. 
Mereado  411.  430. 
Murillo's  HoYiae  419. 
-^  Statue  414. 
Museo    Arqueologieo 

414. 
^  ProTineial  414. 
Oranges,    Court  of  the 

401. 
Palacio  Araobispal  401. 

—  del  Maraud  de  Mon- 
tiUa413. 

de  Paloinarea413. 

—  de  Santelmo  418. 
Paroue     Maria    Luisa 

Parra,  La  401. 
Paseo  de  Cristina  S89. 
418. 

—  de  las  DeUcias  389. 
418. 

—  del  Pino  419. 

—  de  Beeared  419. 
->  de  Santelmo  418. 
Patio  de  los  Naranios 

401. 
Penitenti«ry  419. 
Physicians  383. 
Picture  Gallery  415. 
Pictures,  Exhib.  of  382. 
Pigeon  Sbootiaf  418. 
Plaza  de  ArgxieUes  410. 

—  de  Atarazanas  417. 

—  de   la  ConaiitneioB 
406. 


index; 


616 


Seville  : 
Pliusa  del  Duque  de 
VictorU  413. 

—  de  Oavidia  414. 

—  del  Homo  414. 
.    —  del  Paoifloo  414. 

—  de    San    FernaBdo 
.     409. 

—  de  ToroB  388.  417. 

—  del  Triimfo  396. 
Popular     Celebrations 

391. 
Porcelain  Factory  490. 
Prado  de  San  Sebastian 

391.  419. 
Presidio  419. 
Prison  417. 
Promenades  38^. 
Puente'  de   Isabel  II. 

420. 

—  de  Triana  420. 
Paerta  de  Cdrdoba  412, 

—  de  la  S(acarena412. 

—  Real  416. 

—  del  Sol  412. 
Babida  Promenade  416. 
Bomerias  891. 
Sagrario  406. 
Salon  Becreativo 
San  Glemente  413. 

—  Isidore  410. 

—  Julian  413. 

—  Lorenzo  414. 

—  Marcos  411. 

—  Pedro  410. 

—  Salvador  409. 
Santa  Ana  4J^. 

—  Cruz  420. 

—  Lucia  412. 

—  Magdalena  414. 

—  Maria  la  Blanca  419. 

—  Marina  412. 
Slaughter  iHoaae  419. 
Theatres  389.  418. 
Tiro  de  Pichones  418. 
Tobacco  Factory  419. 
Torre  de  Don  Fadrique 

413. 

—  del  Oro  418. 

—  de  la  Plata  4lS. 
Triana  420. 
IJlloa's  Statue  409. 
University  411. 

—  Church  411. 

—  Library  411. 
Velazquez'  Statue  413. 

SeviUa  la  Vieja  421. 
— ,  Puerto  de  459. 
Sierra  Elvira,  BaSos  de 

331. 
Sigena  180. 
Sigiienza  164. 
S.il,  the  481. 


Silla  268.  266. 

del  Obispo  318. 
SUs  190. 
Simancas  89. 
Simat  de  Valldigna  271 
Sitges  227. 
Sobradelo  481. 
Sobrarbe  161.  179. 
Socuellimos  277. 
Sodupe  45. 

Sol,  Cerro  del  383.  349. 
Solana,  the  177. 
Solares  44. 
Sollana  268. 
Solsona  217. 
Soltraos,  Cerro  de  285. 
Somosierra,    Puerto    de 

154. 
Sor,  the  510. 
Soria  155.  175.    . 
Sos  174. 
Soto  de  Boma  331. 

—  de  Bey  485. 
Sotomayor  126. 
Soure  564. 
Souzellas  564. 
Spartel,  Cape  385. 
Suam385. 

Subejana  de  Alava  16. 
— .  de  Morales  16. 
Sueca  268.  266. 
Sugetas.  Isla  290. 
Suria  213.  . 

Tabemes    de   Valldigna 

271. 
Xablas,  Las  426. 
Tadim  584. 
Tafalla  175.  177. 
Tagus,  the  123.  276.  443. 

445.  447.  452.  511.  512. 

513. 
Talavera  la  Beal  457. 

—  de  la  Beina  446. 
Talayuela  446. 
Tamarite  da  Litera  180. 
Tamega,  the  586.  . 
Tancos  511. 
Tangier  381. 
Tarancdn  276. 
Tarazona  175. 
Tardienta  179. 
Tariego  18. 
Tarifa  381. 
Tarragona  231. 
Tarrasa  212. 
Tarrega  214. 
Tarsis  648. 
TartessuB  294. 
Tauste  174. 
Taveiro  664. 
Teba  369. 
Techas  25. 


Teijeiro  482. 

Tejares  472. 

Tejea,  Sierra  822. 

Tejo,  see  Tagus. 

— <,  Entrada  do  541. 

Telhada  553. 

Tembleque  276. 

Ter,  the  188.  188.  191. 

Terror  156. 

Teruel  181. 

Tetuan  385. 

Tharsis,  Mines  of  425. 

Thomar  661. 

Tibi,  Pantano  de  275. 

Tibidabo,  Monte  192. 211. 

Tierra  de  Campos  18. 

Tingis  386.  38^.  883. 

Tito,  Banos  de  193. 

Tiurana  217. 

Tobarra  286. 

Toboso  277. 

Tocina  305.  469. 

Toc6n  830. 

Toledo  126. 

Academia    de  Dibujo 
144. 

-^  General  Mill  tar  141. 

AcueduotoBomano  14S. 

Alcazar  150. 

Amphitheatre,  Boman 
143. 

Antequerela  142. 

Arco   de  la  Sangre  de 
Cristo  141. 

Art  Academy  144. 

Ayuntamiento  ii±. 

Bano  de  la  Caya  148. 

Basilica  de  Santa  Leo- 
eadia  147. 

Biblioteca    Provincial 
140. 

Botanical  Garden  147. 

Calle  del  Comercio  141. 

—  de  Sta.  Isabel  141. 

—  Santo  Tom^  144, 
145. 

—  de  la  Triperia  150. 
Cdrcel  Provincial  149. 
Casa  de  Mesa  144. 
Castillo  de  San  Servan- 

do  142.  151. 
Cathedral  130. 
City  Hall  141. 
Convento  de  los  Gilitos 

149. 

—  de  Santa  Isabel  141. 
Corralillo  de  S  Miguel 

160. 
Covachnelas  143. 
Cristo  de  la  Luz,El  143. 

—  de  U  Vega,  Bl  147. 
Cuesta   de   Carmelitos 

lU. 


616 


INDBX. 


TOLBDO : 

Cueito  del  Carmen  Cal- 

smdo  141. 
CutT%  de  Hereolea  148. 
DipnUcUa    ProTiacUl 

148. 
EscueU  de  ladattriaa 

ArUfticM  146. 
HermandM,  Pritoa  of 

the  ll». 
HospiUl  de  Dementes 
.  143. 
-^  de  Sm  Juan  Bautiita 

143. 

.   —  de  SftnU  Craz  141. 
Haerte  del  Bey  14^ 
Indastrial  Art  School 

146. 
Jardin  Botanico  147. 
Juderfa  148. 
Matadero  Publico  147. 
Herchin  143. 
Meadn  del  SerUlano  141. 
Hiradero  143. 
Moaquea  ISO.  143. 
Hiueo  Provincial  146. 
Nuestra  Se&<Mra  de  la 

Gabesa,  Ermita  161 

148. 
Nuncio,  £1  142. 
■    Padilla's  House  144. 
Palace    of   Peter    the 

Cruel  141. 
Palacio  Arsobispal  140. 

—  Faenaalida  145. 

—  de  Oaliana  142. 
Paaeo  de  Madrid  143. 
-•  de  la  Bosa  142. 

—  del  Tranpito  149. 
Patioa  128. 

PeSa  Tarpeya  149. 
Piasade  laConslitacidn 
141. 

—  Mayor  149. 

—  Beil  149. 

—  de  Verduraa  149. 

—  de  Zodocov^r  141. 
Plazuela    del  Ayunta- 

miento  141.  144. 149. 

—  de  Padilla  144. 
Posada  de  la  Sangre  141 
Post  Office  127.  144. 
Paente    de   Alcantara 

142. 

—  de  San  Martin  14S. 
Pnerta    de    Alarcdnes 

142. 

—  de  Alcantara  142. 

—  del   Cambrdn    147. 
148. 

-~  del  Gristo  de  la  Luz 
143. 

—  de  Doce  Cantos  142. 


TOLBDO : 

PuertadelSoll43.1U. 

—  Visaf  ra  Aetuil  143. 

Antifua  148. 

Railway  Station    126. 

142. 
Boderick*«  Palace  148. 
Boman  Bemains  143. 
San  Antonio  de  Padua 

146. 

—  Joan  Bautiata  144. 
de  la  Penltencia 

160. 
de  lofl  Beyes  145. 

—  Justo  iA). 

—  Vicente  Anejo  144. 
Santa  Maria  In  Blanoa 

148. 
Santiago    del   Arrabti 

143.     .        . 
Santo  Domingo  el  An- 

tigno  144. 
el  Beil  144. 

—  Tom^  145. 
Sinagoga  del  Trinsito 

Slaughter  House  147 
Taller  del  Moro  149. 
Theatres  127.  160. 
Turbina  Vargas  142. 
Vega  Baja  i&. 
Vfreen  de  Grricia,Cerro 
de  la  147.  . 

—  del   Valle,    Ermita 
151. 

Waterworks  142.. 

Weapon  Factory  147. 

ZodocoT^r  141. 
Toledo,  Montes  de  276. 

462. 
Tolono,  Sierra  de  17. 
Tolosa  13. 

Tolox,  Sierra  de  870. 
Tona.191. 
Tonyi  183. 

Toral  de  los  Vados  481. 
Torcl,  El  829. 
Torcales,  Sierra  de  los 

828. 
Tordera  192. 
Tordesillas  39. 
TorelW  191. 
Tormes,  the  472.  461. 
Tornerofl  473.  • 
Toro  19. 
Torquemada.18. 
Torreblanca  247. 
Torre  de  Bngio  510. 

—  del  Campo  306. 

—  de  Chipiona  426. 
Torredembarr^  230. 
Torre  de  la  Encaiiizada 

290. 


Torre  de  Estacio  290. 
Torredo^jimeno  806. 
Torre  Oorda  434. 

—  la  Sal  347. 
Torretodonea  SO. 
Torre  dan  Vnrgena  510. 

461. 
Torrejdn  de  Ardoz  152. 
^  de  Vdaseo  452. 
TorrdATCgs  49. 
Torremcijla  460. 
Torremolinos  321.  328. 
TorreaneTa  801. 
TorreqnebradiUa  305. 
Torres  Cabrern  319. 

—  IJoTas  612. 

—  Torres  251. 

—  Vedras  551.  540. 
Torreta,  La  192. 
Torrevieja  283. 
Torr^OS  445. 
Torroz  828. 
Tortosa  239. 
— ,  C4bo  de  239. 
Torviscoso  446. 
Totana  297. 
Trafalgar,  Cape  386. 
Trafaria  540.  639. 
Trajana  420. 
Tramagal  511. 
Trebn^iena  428. 
Tres  Puentes  16. 
Treto  U. 
Triana  420. 
Trianos  473. 
Trillo  158. 
Trocadero  433. 
Trofa  583. 

Trois  Conronnes  10. 
Trubia  489. 
Trnjillanos  467. 
TnyiUo  448.         ^"^.j 
Tna  5i7. 
Tudela  176. 

—  de  Ihiero  18. 

—  Vegdn  485. 
Tuna,  the  241.  262.  2». 
Turd   de  San    Jerdnimo 

219.  220. 
Tusal  de  Manises  S60. 
Tuy  493. 


Ubeda  802. 

— ,  Loma  de  802. 

Udalla  44. 

Ugueray,  Punta  de  20. 

Ujo  486. 

Uldecona  246. 

Ulia,  Monte  10. 

Ulla,  the  495. 

Unhos  513. 

Union,  La  292. 

Urbion,  Pico  de  177.  ITtS, 


INDEX. 


617 


Urda  453. 
Urgel,  Seo  de  217. 
— ,  Canal  de  214.  238. 
— ,  Llano   del  214.    238. 

184. 
Urgull,  Monte  12. 
Urola,  the  13.  14.  19. 
Urso  386. 

Urum^a,  the  11.  13. 
Utebo  173. 
Utrera  427.  387. 

Vacar'303. 
— ,  Caatillo  de  303. 
Vacares  369. 
Vacia  Madrid  101. 
Vado-Ja^n  307. 
VadoUano  302. 
ValchilK^n  319. 
Val  de  A^ogues  453. 
Valdecarahanos ,  Huerta 

de  276. 
Val   de  Gristo,   Convent 

251. 
—  de  Inflemo,  Cerro  de 

302. 
Valdedios  491. 
Valdemoro  276. 
Valdepenas  301. 
Valdestillas  19. 
Valenca  do  Minho  584, 

493. 
Valencia  252. 

Alameda  262. 

Archaeological   Collec- 
tion 261. 

Archivo  del  Beino  264. 

Arenas,  Las  265. 

Arrabal  de  Murviedro 
262, 

Art  Fxhibifion  253. 

Ana  ■  ncia  259. 

Baths  253. 

Bull  Ring  253.  265. 

Cabanal  265. 

GalledeGaball^ro8  264. 

—  de  Col6n  263. 

—  de  Cuarte  26). 

—  de  QuiUem  deCaatro 
265. 

—  de  Jativa  265. 

—  del  Mar  257. 

—  de  San  Vicente  255. 

—  de  Serranos  280. 

—  de  Zaragoza  257. 
Cathedral  257. 
Citadel  262. 

City  Walls  255. 
Golegio  de  Loreto  262. 

—  del  Patriarca  256. 
Corpus  Christi  Church 

m. 

Glorieta  262.      . 


Valih  oiA : 
Grao,  £1  265. 
Hospital  Militar  262. 

—  Provincial  265. 
James  I.'b  Statue  263. 
Jajrdin  Boti^nico  264. 

—  del  Real  262. 
Llano  del  Real  262. 
Lonja  de  la  Seda  263. 
Mercado  263. 
Miguelete,  the  258. 
Monte  Oliveto  266. 
Museo  de  Pinturas  260. 
Nuestra  Senora  de  los 

Desamparados ,    Ca- 
pilla  269. 
Palacio  Arzobispal  259. 

—  delaDiputaci<5n259, 

—  del  Marques  de  las 
Aguas  255,  256. 

Plaza  del  Cid  257. 

—  del  Colegio  del  Pa- 
triarca 256. 

—  del  Mercado  263, 

—  del  Principe  Alfonso 
263. 

—  de  la  Reina  267. 

—  de  San  Francisco 
255. 

—  de  Santa  Catalina 
257. 

—  de  la. Seo  259. 

—  de  Tetuan  262. 

—  de  Villarrasa  255. 

—  de  Toros  253.  265. 

—  de  Terbas  257. 
Presidio  262. 

—  de  San  Agustin  265. 
Puente  del  Mar  262. 

—  del  Real  262. 

—  de  la  Trinidad  262. 
Puerta  de  Cuarte  264. 

—  de  Serranos  261. 
San  Agustin  265. 

—  Andres  256. 

—  Bartolom^  260. 

—  Est^ban  262. 

—  Martin  255. 

—  Miguel  de  los  Reyes, 
cony.  262. 

—  NicoUs  264. 
Santa  Catalina  257. 

—  Cruz  260. 

Santo  Domingo,  cony, 
262 

—  Tom<8  257. 
Santos  Jaanes,  Los  264. 
Sea  Baths  263.  266. 
Seo,  La  267. 
Theatres  263. 
Temple  262. 
Tobacco  Factory  263. 
Torres  deSe^anos  261. 


Valbmcia  ; 

Tribunal  de  Aguas  259. 

Trinitarios,  Ch.  of  the 
262. 

University  256. 

Vivd's  Statue  256. 
Valencia,  Prov.  241. 

—  de  Alcantara  461. 
ValesquiUo  304. 
Valjada  270. 
Valladares  565. 
Vallado  652. 
Valladolid  36. 

•,  Province  18. 
Vallbona  227. 
Valldigna  271. 
Valle  de  Figueira  612. 

—  Malo  W.  219. 

—  de  Prazeres  511. 
Vallecas  161. 
Vall^s  191. 

— ,  Los  248. 
Vallirana  228. 
Vallongo  586. 
— ,  Serra  .de  686. 
Vails  227.      . 
Vallvidrera  211. 
Valmadrid.  Altos  de  181. 
Val  Roch  282. 
Valsain  122. 

•,  Pinar  de  123. 
Valsequillo  304. 
Valtierra  176. 
Vargellas  687. 
Vargem,  Rio  da  561. 
Virzea,  the  544. 
Vega  Magaz  480. 
Veguellina  479. 
Veger  435. 
Velayoa  45. 
Veleta,  Picacho  de  368. 

348. 
VdlezTMtflaga  828. 
VeUica  41. 
Vendas  Ifovas  547. 
Vendrell  230. 
Venta  de  Banos  18.  39. 

—  de  Cirdenas  302. 
Ventas  de  Alcol^a,   Las 

303. 
Ventorillo  de  la  Guardia 

306. 
Vera  174. 
Vera  Cruz,  Church  120. 

^,  Cerro  de  329. 

VerdA  214. 
Veredas  463. 
— ,  Puerto  de  453. 
Vergara  19. 
Vergil  272. 
Verina  489. 
Vermoil  663. 
Verride  558. 


618 


INDEX. 


Veruela  174. 
Vesuvlo  fi87. 
ViaAuguJta393.U9.465. 
Vn)oru,  Sierra  de  las  467. 
Viana  178.  177. 

—  de  Cega  19. 
Vianna  do  CasteUo  584. 
Victflvaro  152. 
Vich  191. 

Vicor,  Sierra  de  167. 
Vienna  54S. 
Vigo  498. 
Vilabella  227. 
Vilabrodona  227. 
ViladecabaUs  212. 
Vilagraja  214.  . 
Vilftjuiga  187. 
Vilamalla  188. 
Vilasar  198. 
Vilaaeca  2S^. 
Vilavert  238. 
Vilches  807. 
ViUabona  489. 

—  Cizurquil  18. 
Villaeanas  277. 
Villada  473. 
ViUadangos  479. 
Villa  do  Conde  683. 
Villaeacusa  41. 
Villa  Fernando  673. 
ViUafranca  14. 

—  de  los  Burros  460. 

—  de  Cdrdoba  308. 

—  das  Naves  673. 

—  del  Panadas  229. 

—  del  Vierzo  481. 
ViUaFranca  (de  Xira)613. 
ViUagarcte  469.  495. 
Villalba  50.  52. 

—  del  Alcor  423. 
ViUalonga  272. 
ViUaluenga  445.       . 
Villalambroso  473. 
Villamanin  484. 
Villamartin  431. 
Villa  Mea  5S6. 
Villamiel  446. 
Villamnriel  deCerrato  39. 
Villa  Nova  548. 

de  FamalifSo  584. 

de  Bainha  513. 


Villanuera    del   Ariseal 
423. 

—  del  Oillego  179. 

—  y  Oeltrtl  227. 
~  del  Orao  265. 

—  de  las  Mines  469. 

—  de  la  Reina  903. 
de  la  Serena  456. 

~  de  Sigena  180. 
ViUaquiMtn  18. 
VilUr  278. 

—  Formoso  473. 664. 573. 
Villares,   Llanos   de  los 

279. 
Villargordo  306. 
Villarrasa  423. 
Viliarreal  217. 

—  de  Alava  16. 
Villa  del  Bio  301 
ViUarrobledo  278. 
ViUarrabia  804. 
Villaseca  y  Mocej<5n  452. 
VillasequiUa  276. 
Villaumbrales  4T3. 
Villa  Velha  de  B6dao  510. 

511. 
ViUaverde  276.  446. 

—  de  Pontones  44. 

—  de  Trucios  44. 
Villayiciosa  491. 
Villa  Visosa  458. 
ViUavieja  218.  637. 
Villena  279. 
ViUodrigo  18. 
Vimbodi  238. 
Vimeiro  651. 
Vinaixa  238. 
Vinalapd,  the  241.  279. 
Viiiar6z  246. 
Violada,  Llanos  de  179. 
Vrrgen  de  Bel^n,  Ermita 

-deiPrado,  £rmita446. 
Virtudes>  Las  279. 
Visillo,  El  302. 
Vitoria  16. 

Vivens,  Sierra  de  275. 
Viv^r  251. 

Viacaya,  Prov.  2.  20.  44. 
— ,  Puente  24. 
Vizella  581* 


Viaeu  578. 

Viznar  368. 

Xabregas  519. 

,|[eres  de  la  Frontera  429. 

Tanguae  51. 

TfSbenes  453. 

-*-,  Sierra  de  452. 

Tcela  279. 

Y^^as,   Sierra  de  319, 

Yeles  y  fisquivias  452. 

Yelves  609. 

Yepes  276. 

Yeeuas,   Laguna   de  las 

369. 
Yunquera  I5i. 
Yuste,  convent  447. 
Zadorra,  the  15. 
Zafra  459.  426. 
Z^hara  431. 
Zaida,  La  181. 
Zakynthos  248. 
Zalamea  423. 
Zaldlvar  20. 
Zamora  472. 
Zdncara  717. 
Zapardiel,  the  19. 
Zapateros  307. 
Zaragoza,  see  Saragossa. 
—  la  Vieja,  Ermita  181. 
ZaramiDo  45. 
Zarauz  13. 
Zarza,  La  51. 
Zegri,  Venta  del  306. 
Zeneta  281. 
Zonar,  Lake  of  S19. 
Zorita  443. 
Zurnoza  20. 
Zorreras,  Las  50. 
Zorroza  24.  45. 
ZuastI  176. 
Zaazo  20.  25. 
Zubilburu  21. 
Zubia,  La  348. 
Zuera  179. 
Zugasfieta  20. 
Zujar  804. 
Zum^rraga  14.  19. 
Zurgena  298. 
Zurriola  10. 


^r 


Lelpsic:  Printed  by  Breitkopf  &^Hartel. 


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