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HARVARD COLLEGE
LIBRARY
FROM THE FUND OF
CHARLES MINOT
CLASS OF 1828
I^tI
\
\
\
\
SPAIN
AND
PORTUGAL
Money Table
(comp. pp. xi, xii).
Approximate Eqoiy&lents.
American
Koney.
English Koney.
Spanish 1
Pesetas
Koney.
Portuguese
Koney.
Doll.
Cts.
L.
8.
D.
(Francs)
Cent.
Milreis BeU
_
20
931&
1
_
.
182
25
"l
1
25
—
225
40
1
7~5
2
__
— .
264
60
__
2
4«5
3
—
—
546
—
80
—
3
22»
4
—
—
728
4
5
910
101|2
—
4
5
5
49
—
20
—
4
9*5
6
—
092
40
5
71 5
7
—
274
60
—
6
4^|5
8
—
466
1
80
7
22,6
9
638
2
8
10
830
2
20
—
8
9^5
11
—
2
002
2
40
—
9
71 5
12
—
2
184
2
60
—
10
4*5
13
—
2
366
2
80
11
221»
14
2
548
3
12
15
2
730
3
S
12
gTft
16
2
912
3
40
13
71ft
17
3
094
3
60
—
14
44.
18
—
3
276
3
80
15
22|5
19
3
458
4
16
20
3
640
5
1
25
4
500
10
__
2
50
9
100
20
—
4
—
—
100
—
18
• 200
The value of Spani3H Money is nominally the same as that of France,
but in 1898 the rate of exchange made it nearly 25 per cent lower (ir^^
33 'pesetas; 100 fr. = 133 p. 25 c.)< The exchange is also considera""
against Pobtdqdbsb Money (ll. = 6 milreis 15 rs. \ 100 fr. = 24 milr. 93 rs
Eailway Time in Spain is 25 min. behind that of Paris and I1/4 hr.
behind that of Central Europe; Portuguese !time is 22 min. behind that
of Spain.
7
SPAIN
AND
] PORTUGAL
HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS
BY
EARL BAEDEKEB
WITH 6 KAP8 AND 46 PLANS
LEIP8IC : KARL BAJEpEKER. PUBLISHER
1898
All rights reserved
^
Ji/U ^ixrC Zu.. r^yCU ■
f
*Go, little book, God send thee good passage,
And specially let this be thy prayere :
Unto them all that thee will read or hear,
Where thou art wrong, after their help to call
Thee to correct in any part or all.*
?>'
PBEFACE.
The chief object of the Handbook for Spain and Portugal
is to supply the traveller with such information as will render
him as nearly as possible independent of hotel-keepers, com-
missionnaires, and guides, and thus enable him the more
thoroughly to enjoy and appreciate the objects of interest he
meets with on his tour.
The Handbook is based mainly upon the personal observa-
tion of the Editor and his Associates, who have repeatedly
explored the country to obtain the latest possible informa-
tion. As, however, changes are constantly taking place, the
£ditpr will highly appreciate any communications with which
travellers may favour him, if the result of their own exper-
ience. Hotel-bills, with annotations showing the traveller's
opinion as to his treatment and accommodation, are partic-
ularly useful.
The contents of the Handbook are divided into Eight
Sections (I. The Basque Provinces, Old and New Castile;
II. Aragon and Navarre; III. Catalonia; IV. Valencia and
Mnrcia; V. Andalusia; VI.Estremadura; YII. Leon, Asturias,
and Galicia; YIII. Portugal), each of which may be separately
removed from the book by the traveller who desires to mini-
mize the bulk of his luggage. To each section is prefixed
a list of the routes it contains, so that each forms an approx-
imately complete volume apart from the general table of con-
tents or the generalindex.
The introductory article on Spanish Art, written by
Professor C, Justi of Bonn, will aid the traveller to an in-
telligent appreciation of the paintings, statues, and architect-
ural monuments seen during his tour.
vl PREFACE.
The Maps and Plans, on which special care has been
bestowed, will often render material service to the traveller,
and enable him at a glance to ascertain his bearings and
select the best routes. When not otherwise indicated (as, e.g,,
in the case of Seville and Barcelona), both maps and plans
are drawn with the N. side uppermost.
Heights are given in English feet (1 Engl. ft. = 0.3048
m^tre), Distances in English miles (except in the case of
mountain-excursions, where the time they occupy is given as
more convenient), and the Populations in accordance with
the most recent census.
Hotels. The Editor has endeavoured to enumerate, not
only the first-class hotels (comp., however, p. xx), but also
others of less pretension, which may safely be selected by the
*voyageur en gar^on'. Although changes frequently take
place, and prices generally have an upward tendency, the
average charges stated in the Handbook will enable the trav-
eller to form a fair estimate of his expenditure. The value of
the asterisks, which are used as marks of commendation, is
relative only, those prefixed to town-hotels and village-inns
signifying that the houses are good of their respective kinds.
To hotel-keepers, tradesmen, and others the Editor begs
to intimate that a character for fair dealing and courtesy to-
wards travellers forms the sole passport to his commenda-
tion, and that advertisements of every kind are strictly ex-
cluded from his Handbooks. Hotel-owners are also warned
against persons representing themselves as agents for Bae-
deker^s Handbooks.
As the aecentoation of Spanish words is often puzzling, the accented
syllable is frequently marked in the Handbook. This is, however, done
systematically only in such words as Sal<5n, which the Spaniards them-
selyes write with an accent.
CONTENTS.
Introdnction.
Page
I. Travelling Expenses. Money. Language. Passports.
Custom House xi
II. Travelling Season. Plan of Tour xiii
III. RaOways. Tramways. Diligences. vSteamers. Cycling xv
IV. Post Office. Telegraph Office nix
V. Hotels. Restaurants. Beer Houses. CaMs. Cigars . xx
VI. Churches. Museums. Shops xxiii
VII. Gratuities. Guides. Public Security. Beggars . . . xxiv
VIII. Intercourse with the People xxv
IX. Theatres. Bull Fights. Juego de Pelota xxvi
X. Climate and Health. Physicians and Chemists . . . xxx
XI. Chronological Table of the Chief Events in Spanish
History xxxili
Xn. Bibliography xxxvii
Glossary of Spanish Terms xxxviii
Historical Sketch of Spanish Art, by Professor C. Justi xxxix
I. The Basque Provinces. Old and New Castile . . . . 2, 5
Route
1. From (Hendaye) Irun via Zumlrraga, Miranda de
Ebro , Burgos , and Valladolid to Medina del Oampo
(Lisbon, Madrid) 8
2. From Zumarraga to Bilbao and Miranda de Ebro . 19
3. Burgos 26
4. VaUadolid 36
5. From Venta de Bafios (Madrid) to Santander ... 39
6. From Medina del Campo to Madrid via Avila, Escorial,
andViUalba 46
7. From Medina del Campo to Madrid vial Segovia and
Villalba 50
8. Madrid 62
9. Excursions from Madrid 108
10. From Madrid to Saragossa 161
n. Amgon and Havarre 169
11. Saragossa 163
12. From Saragossa to Castejon and Miranda de Ebro . 173
Till CONTENTS.
Route Page
13. From Saragossa to Tardienta and L^rida (Barcelona) 178
14. From Saragossa to Reus (Barcelona) 180
HI. Catalonia 183
15. From Perpignan to Barcelona 186
16. Barcelona . . 194
17. From Barcelona to L^rlda (Saragossa, Madrid) . . .211
18. The Montserrat 218
19. From Barcelona to San Vicente de Calders and R^us
(Saragossa, Madrid) . 226
20. From Barcelona via San Vicente de Calders to Tarra-
gona (Tortosa, Valencia) 230
21. Tarragona 231
22. From Tarragona to L^rida via Reus 237
23. From Tarragona to Tortosa (Valencia) 238
IV. Valencia and Mnrcia 241
24. From Tortosa (Tarragona) to Valencia 245
25. Valencia 262
26. From Valencia to Carcagente and La Encina (Madrid,
Cordova, Alicante, Murcia) 267
27. From Carcagente (Valencia) to Gandfa and D^nia . . 271
28. From Jativa to Alcoy and Alicante ; 274
29. From Madrid to Alicante vi^ Alcazar, Chinchilla, and
La Encina 275
30. From Alicante to Murcia vi4 Elche and Alquerfa . . 282
31 From Chinchilla (Madrid) to Murcia and Cartagena 284
V. Andalusia 293
32. From Murcia to Granada vik Lorca, Baza, and Guadix 297
33. From Madrid to Seville via Alcazar, Cordova, and
Tpcijia 300
34. From Espeluy to Ja^n and Puente Genii 305
. 35. Cdrdova 307
36. From C6rdova to Malaga via Puente Genii and Bobadilla 319
37. Malaga 321
38. From Bohadilla (Cordova) to Granada 328
39. Granada and the Alhamhra 331
40. From Bohadilla to Gibraltar via Ronda and Algeciras 369
41. From Gibraltar to Cadiz viH Tangiers 380
42. From Bobadilla to Utrera (Seville, Cadiz) via La Eoda
and Marchena 386
43. SevUle 387
44. From Seville to Huelva. La Rabida. Palos. Rio Tinto
.Mines . .423
. 45. From SevUle to Cadiz 425
46. Cadiz 434
MAPS AND PLANS.
^4. Environs of Cadiz (1 : 190,000) : p. 434.
^-5. Environs of Lisbon (1 : 260,000): p. 538.
-6. Environs of Oporto (1 : 66,500): p. 582.
b. Plans op Towns.
^1. AUcante (1 : 16,000). — v2. Aranjuex (1 : 19,300). — ''S. Avila
(1 : 12,600). —^4. Barcelona (1 : 37,000). —^6. Barcelona, inner
town (1 : 15,000). --^. Bi£bao (1 : 15,000). --7. Burgos (1 : 11,000).
--«. Cadiz (1 : 10,000). — ^. Cartagena (1 : 28,000). —^10. Coim-
bra (1 : 9000). — ^ 11. Cordova (1 : 15,000). — -12. Escorial
(1 : 14,000). —43. Gibraltar (1 :26,000). —AA. Granada (1 : 8700).
— vl5. La Granja (1 : 15,000). 16. Lisbon (1 : 15,000). — 17.
-Madrid (1 : 36,000). —48. Madrid, inner town (1 : 12,000). —
vl9. Malaga (1 : 13,000). —•^0. Oporto (1 : 15,000). —^1. Sagunto
(1 : 9600). —^2. Salamanca (1 : 13,500). —23. San Sebastian
(1 : 18,000). — v24. SarUander (1 : 13,200). —-26. Santiago de
Compostela (1 : 13,000). —^6. Saragossa (1 : 13,000). 27. Se-
govia (I : 20,000). —^28. SevUU (1 : 10,000). 29. TangUrs
(1 : 6500). — *30. Tarragona (1 : 13,700). —^31. Toledo (1 : 10,000).
—^2. Valencia (1 : 8760). —33. ValladoUd (1 : 16,000).
c. Plans of Buildings.
''I. Cathedral of Burgos. — ''2. Prado Museum at Madrid. —
-3. The Escorial. —"4. Cathedral of Toledo. --^. Cathedral of Bar-
celona. — '6. Mosque of Cordova. 1. Cathedral of Granada. —
-'S. TheAJharnbra.—^. Alcdzar of Seville. — 40. Cathedral of Seville,
— 11. Convent of Batalha. —42. Caihedral of Leon. — 43. Cathe-
dral of Santiago de Compostela,
Abbbeyiations.
R. = Boom, Rente.
A. = Attendance.
L. = Light.
B. = Breakfast.
D. = Dinner.
D^j. = dejeuner, luncheon.
Pens. = Pension, i.e. board and
lodging.
N. = North, Northern, etc.
S. = South, etc.
E. = East, etc.
W. = West, etc.
M. = Engl. mile.
omn. = omnibus.
fr. = franc.
p. = peseta.
c. = centimes, centimes.
rs. = rei's.
ft. = Engl. foot.
min. = minute.
hr. = hour.
comp. = compare.
r. = right.
1. = left.
The letter d with a date, after the name of a person, indicates the
year of his death. The number of feet given after the name of a place
shows its height above the sea-level. The number of miles placed before
the stations on railway-routes indicates their distance from the starting-
point of the route.
AsTEBisKs are used as marks of commendation.
INTRODUCTION.
The following remarks apply primarily to Spain^ but most of them
are also true of Porluaal, A few special notes on the latter country will
be found at pp. 601-603.
I. Trayelling Ezpensefl. Money. Lan^age. Pasiporti.
Custom House.
TBAYBifLiNO ExpBNSBs. The cost of a joarney iu Spain does
not materially differ from that of one in the other parts of Europe
frequented by tourists. The average daily expenditure, exclusive
of railway-fares, will vary from 12 to 20 pesetas according to the
traveller's requirements, while 10-15 p. per day should be enough
for a prolonged stay in one place. Parties of two or three trav-
ellers, who are familiar with the country and its language, may
considerably reduce the above figures.
MoNBT. The currency of Spain is now arranged on the decimal
system, like that of France. The Peseta^ divided into 100 C^ntimoSy
is the nominal equivalent of the franc (1 p. = 1 fr. s=> 9^/2d.), In
consequence, however, of the unsatisfactory state of the national
finances, Spanish money has sunk far helow its nominal value, and
the rate of exchange is constantly fluctuating. The gold pieces of
10, 20, and 25 p. have entirely disappeared from ordinary circula-
tion. The current coins are silver pieces of 72? ^t % ^^^ ^ P-f ^^^
copper pieces of 1, 2, 5, and 10 c. The Banco de E*pana at Madrid
issues notes of the value of 26, 50, 100, 600, and 1000 p. The
older silver pieces of 20 RedUs (5 p.). 10 rls. (2V2 pO» ^ ^^^' (^ P0»
and 2 rls. (^2 P-) we still occasionally met with, but are being
gradually vnthdrawn firom circulation. Reckoning by reales is still
common in retail trade *, the piece of 5 p. is popularly known as
Jhiro (dollar), and the pieces of 10 c. and 6 c. are often jocularly
termed jperro grande or gordo Cbig' or *fat dog') and perro chico or
perrita ('little dog'). — No paper money should be accepted except
the above-mentioned notes. Spanish silver coins with the legend
^centavos de pe'*o' should be rejected, as should alfio be the coins of
Mexico, the Philippines, and Spanish America. Every shop-counter
in Spain Is provided with a stone slab for the testing of silver
coins, and the traveller should also learn to know their true ring,
as false coins are by no means uncommon. A handful of change
should nerer be taken without examination, since even railway
officials v^ill sometimes try to take advantage of the unsuspecting
stranger by passing base money mingled with the good.
xli PASSPORTS.
Engliih Banknotes may be advantsgeoasly changed at any of the large
towns or seaports of Spain, and French Banknotes are equally available in
the N. part of the country. Sovereigns are accepted almost everywhere
for 25 p., but sometimes realize 28-30 p. at a money-changer's. For a lolig
stay it will be found convenient to have a Zetter of Credit, addressed to
some reputable banker.
The tourist should always carry an ample supply of coppers and other
small change (pp. xxiv, xzv). It is convenient to have the money required for
the day in a purse by itself. Coppers are best carried loose in the pocket.
Languaoe. It is quite possible to traYel in Spain without a
knowledge of Spanish (lengua castellana), as either English or French
is pretty sure to be spoken in the hotels generally frequented by
tourists. Those, however, who are entirely ignorant of the language
will often be exposed to inconvenience and extortion, while they
will hardly be in a position to form an adequate judgment of the
country or to derive the full measure of pleasure and profit from
their journey. Even a superficial knowledge of Spanish is, there-
fore, highly desirable. +
Passfobts are not essential in either Spain or Portugal, though
travellers leaving Portugal by sea require a special authorisation
(comp. p. 603). Nevertheless the traveller is strongly advised to
provide himself with a passport before starting and to have it vUi
at a Spanish consulate. Post-office officials generally insist upon
seeing the passport before delivering registered or money letters ;
and it is often useful in proving the identity of the traveller, in
securing admission to collections at other than the regular hours,
and in many other ways. In excursions in the less-frequented
regions of the interior a passport is practically indispensable ] and
it is obvious that the countenance of the British and American con-
suls can be extended only to those who can prove their nationality.
The chief passport agents in London are Lee is Carter, 440 West Strand ^
W. J. Adams, 59 Fleet Street ; C. Smith A Son, 63 Charing Cross ^ and
£. Stanford, 26 Cockspur Street, Charing Cross.
Custom HorsB. The custom-house examination on the inland
frontiers is generally lenient; hut passengers by sea have their
luggage examined every time they land and sometimes again at the
t Sauer's Spanish Conversation Grammar (5th edit.; Heidelberg, 1891)
and The Interpreter Superseded (Part IV, English-Spanish 5 Dulau & Co.,
London ; price is.) will be found useful aids for the beginner. — The following
notes on the pronunciation may *be serviceable : in the middle of a word
b often sounds like v; before e and i c is pronounced like th in thin, in
other cases like k; ch sounds as in church; d final is almost inaudible;
g is hard, except before e and i, when it resembles the Scottish guttural
ch in loch; h is almost inaudible; J = ch in loch (QuO'o'e = kichote;
reloj = reloch); II sounds like the Italian gl or like Hi In postillion
(lluvia = lyuvia); fS like the French gn id(Ma = donya); f, somewhat
sharper than in English ; < = ss ; a; is now used only in such Latin words
as examen and sounds as in English; p between vowels as in English, at
the end of a word like ee (rey = re-ee, reyes = re-yes); z is pronounced
Hke c before e and i (see above). The vowels are pronounced -as in
'alian (a = ah, e = ay, < = ee, o = oh, « = 00) ; m is silent between g
d e or i, uijless it is provided with a *crema' (Sigtlenza).
PLAN OF TOUR. xlii
railway-station. The chief objects sought for are tobacco and cigars,
but many other articles are liable to 4nty if the officer does not pass
them as 'used effects' (efectos usados). Bribery should not be at-
tempted. Receipts should be preserved. — In many places the lug-
gage is subjected to a second examination by the officers of the
* octroi', either at the exit of the railway-station or at the gate of
the city. This is often extended in the most ruthless manner even
to the hand-bags of the tourist.
n. Txayelling Seaion. Pfam of Tour.
The best seasons for travelling in the elevated interior of Spain
are from the middle of Sept to the end of Nov. and from May Ist
to June 15th; for Andalusia and the Spanish coast of the Medi-
terranean the best months are Oct., Nov., and (especially) from
March- 15th to May 15th.
Seville attracts an enormous crowd of English and other strangers
during Holy Week and its Feria or annual fair. Pleasant summer
quarters are afforded by San Sthasti&n^ Zaravx^ Lai Arenas, San-
tander, and other bathing-resorts on the N. coast, but these are
frequented almost solely by Spaniards. The months of July and
August are not favourable travelling-seasons for either Central or
S. Spain. It is true that nature is then seen iu her most gorgeous
dress and also that the long days give unlimited scope for sight-
seeing, but it is no less true that the intense heat and continued
dryness of the atmosphere deprive the stranger of the energy and
serenity necessary for a satisfactory enjoyment of his trip.
Plan of Toub. The following skeleton-plans will give, to those
tourists who prefer not to be bound down by the limitations of a cir-
cular ticket (p. xvli), an idea of the most interesting places described
in the Handbook ; while they can easily be modified as the season,
the weather, or the preferences of the traveller may determine.
a. Two Months in Spain and Portugal.
Days
Sao SebMtidn (B. 1), with journey to Zumdrraga and Bilbao (KR. 1, 2) IVs
Bilbao (R. 2). with journey to Miranda de JEbro and Burgos (RR. 1, 2) IV2
Burgos. {B,. 3) 1
Journey to Medina da Campo and Salamanca (night-journey ; RR. 1, 50) —
Salamanca (R. 50) 1
To Fregeneda and Oporto (RR. 6, 66) 1
Oporto (R. 64) 2
To Paanpilhosa (with digression to Bussaco) and Cot'm&m. (R. 63) . . Vk
Coimbra (R. 62) l»/2
To Alfareltot, Amieira, asd Leiria (RR. 59, 60) Vz
By earriage or diligence to Balalha and Alcoba^a (R. 60) 1
Mafra, with journey to Caeem and Cintra (RR. 59, 58) 1
Ointra. and journey to Lisbon (R. 56) 2
LiOHM (R. 55) • , 3
To Torre deu Vargens and Badajoz (R. 54) . . ' 1
Badajot, and thence to MMda (R. 48) 1
Mirida (B. 48) 1
xiv PLAN OF TOUR.
Daya
To Zd^ra and Seville (E. 49) 1
aevilU (R. 43) 4
To Cadiz (R. 45) 1/2
Cadiz (R. 46) 1
By steamer to Tangiera (R. 41) 1
Tangiert, with excursion to Cape Spartel (R. 41) 2
By steamer to Gibraltar (R. 41) 1/2
Gibraltar (R. 40) 1
To Algecirat and Ronda (R. 40} 1/2
Ronda (R. iO) 1/2
To Bobadilla and Granada (RR. 40, 47) 1/2
Granada (R. 39) 8
To Bo 'adilla and Malaga (RR, 33, 36) V«
i/aZai/a (R. 37) I1/2
To Bobadilla and Cordova (R. 36) V«
Cordova (R. 35) * . . 1
To Custillejo nn^ Toledo (night-journey; BR. 38,29) V2
ro??do (R. 9) IV2
To CasUlleJo and ^fan/w«« (R. 29) »/«
i4ra»v««^, and thence to Madrid (RR. 9, 29) 1
Madrid (R. 8) 5
Excursion to Escorial (R. 9) 1
To Saragossa (n. 10) 1
Saragoisa (R. 11) 2
By Puebla de Hijar and Reus, or by Lirida and i2«M«, to Tarragona
(night-journey; RR. 14, 22) 1/2
Tarraflrona, and thence to Barcelona (RR. 21, 20) 1
Barcelona (R. 16) 2
Excursion to the i/b»f«erra« (RR. 17, 18) 1-2
From Barcelona to Gerona and Cerbhre (R. 15) V2
b. Six or Seven Weeks in Spain.
San 8d>aitidn to Burgos as above 4
By Medina del Gampo to Avila (by day or night; RR. 1, 6) Va
Avila (R. 6), and thence to Escoriol (R. 6) IV2
Escorial. and thence to Madrid (RR. 6, 9) 1
ifadnd (R. 8) 5
By Aranjnez (V2-I day) and Castillejo to Tofedo (RR. 29, 9) IV2
Toledo (R. 9) 2
By Castillejo to Cordova (night-journey; RR. 29, 33) 1/2
Cordova (R. 35) 1
To Seville V2
Seville^ Cadiz^ Tangiers^ Gibraltar^ Ronda^ and Granada as-in Tour a I2V2
By carriage or diligence to Guadix and Baza (R. 32) 1
By Lorca to Murcia (B. 32) 1
Murcia (R. 31) 1
By j&ic^e (1/2 day) to Alicante (R. 30) 1
Alicante (R. 29) 1
By carriage or diligence to Alcoy^ and by railway to Granada
(RR. 28, 27) 1
Dmia (R. 27) 1
By Gandia and Carcagente to Valencia (RR. 27, 26) 1
Valencia 1
By Sagunio (V2 day) to Tarragona (RR. 24, 23) 1
Tarragona, Barcelona, Montserrat^ Gerona^ and Cevbhre as in Tour a i^/fb^/2
c. One Montli in Spain.
San Sebastian (R. 1) , , 1
To Burgos (R. 1) Va
Burgos (B. 3) • 1
By Medina del Campo and Avila to Escorial (night-journey; R. 6) . . 1
RAILWAYS. XV
Day*
^teoriea land journey to Madrid (BB. 9, 6) 1
Madrid (B. 8) 4
By Algodor to Toledo (BB. 18, 29) ... ' V«
Toledo (B. 9) 1V«
To Cordova and Seville as in Tonr b 6
From Seville to Virera^ La Roda^ Bobadillay and Oranada (BB. 43, 38) 1
Granada (B. 39) 2
Via Bobadilla to Jfafcva (BB. 3^, 36), Vt
Malaga (B. 37) IVt
Via Bobadilla and Cordova to ^ran>iitf (BR. 36, 33, 29) 1
Arai^/uee and journey to Madrid (RB. 9, 29) 1
Saragosea, Tarragona^ Barcelona^ and Cerbire as in Tour a 8
The above tours by no means exhaust the attractions of the
Peninsula; and there are many small towns lying aside from the
beaten tracks of tourists that will well repay a visit.
For the Steamboat Communications with Spain and Portugal,
comp. pp. xvii, xviii.
m. Bailways.t Tramways. Siligenoes. Steamera.
Bailwayi . The unsatisfactory condition of the Spanish railways
glTes rise to many complaints. Their speed is very low. The express
trains (tren expreso) on a few of the main lines (sometimes with
first-class carriages only) and even the ^trains de luxe' (tren sur ex-
preso; first-class only, virith fares raised by 50 per cent) seldom run
faster than 25 M. an hour; the ordinary trains (tren eorreo, trenmixto ;
1st, 2nd, and 3rd class) never attain a speed of more than 15 M. an
hour and are often much behind time, especially in S. Spain. In
winter the carriages are provided with foot-warmers (calorCferos),
The third class carriages, which have sometimes seats on the roof
also, are used exclusively by members of the lower classes. The
second-class carriages have narrow and uncomfortable seats for
10 persons and are generally dirty and neglected. Tourists, espe-
cially if ladies are of the party, will therefore do well to select the
first-class carriages, which are fitted up like those of France. They
are, however, by no means so comfortable as they should be, and
on the main Unes they are often over- crowded. The number of
seats is 6 or 8; and some of these are often occupied by the con-
ductors of the train, and even railway-labourers, who scramble into
the train between stations. Every train is bound to have a first-
class compartment reserved for ladies (departamento reservadopara
senoras) and another for non-smokers (para no fumadores), but
the iivjunction in the latter is seldom heeded by Spanish travellers.
f The Ouia para lot viajeroe de loe ferroearrilet de EtpoMa^ Franoia y
Portugal, y de lot tervieioe maritimoe (monthly ^ 60 c.) purports to give the
time-tables and fares of the railways, tramways, and steamers of the Iberian
Peninsula, but it is very defective and badly arranged. The Ouia general
de ferroearrilet (monthly^ 1 p.) is better, but concerns the railways only.
The Ouia annuneiador e indieador official dot Caminhot de Ferro e da Nave-
gagao de Portugal (1^ rs.) and the Ouia official dot Caminhot de Ferro de
Portugal (iO rs.) deal exclusively with Portugal.
xvi . RAILWAYS.
Among the expressiona that the railway traveller will find con-
venient to understand are the following : viajeroi al trm, take your aeatB \
se edmJbia el tren (el coche, la linea), change carriages ; parada , halt, stop-
page \ parada y fonda^ halt for a meal ; enlrada, entrance , tatida^ exit,
way out ; despacho de billetes^ ticket-offlcte ; Jef4 de estaoidn^ station-master.
At nearly all railway-junctions, frontier- stations, and so on there
are fair railway-restaurants C/ondof), where table-d''hdte luncheon (almuerzo)
or dinner (comida) is ready for the passengers t8-3V2 p., wine included;
comp. p". xxi). Those who prefer to eat in a more leisurely fashion
may provide themselves with food and wine to consume in the railway
carriage. In this case Spanish custom demands, the formality of asking
your fellow-passengers to share with you CUtted gfutd").
Passengers by the night-trains may hire pillows (almokadoi) and
rugs (manias) at the larger stations (1 p. each). These are left in the
carriages when done with.
In Madrid, Barcelona, Saragossa , Granada , Malaga, and some
other large towns the traveller may take his ticket (tomar el billete)
and check his luggage (facturar el equipaje) 1-2 hrs. before the depar-
ture of the train at the Despacho Oentral^ in the middle of the town.
The Omnibus General also starts from this point, but always a good
deal sooner than is absolutely necessary. The ticket and luggage
offices at the large stations open 1 hr. and close */4 hr. before the de-
parture of the train, at smaller stations ^2 ^^' ^^^ ^ minutes. The
service is so defective that it is advisable to reach the station early,
though the waiting-rooms are always poor and sometimes non-exist-
ent. Passengers are generally not allowed to enter either waiting-
room or platform unless they have their railway-tickets or a ticket
of admission {billete de andin, 26-60 c). If possible, the traveller
should have the exact fare ready at the ticket-office. The railway-
ticket has to be shown in booking luggage. The fare is 6, 9, and
12 c. per kilomHre according to class. In addition there is a stamp-
duty of 10 c. on tickets above 10 p.
LuaoAGB to the amount of 66 lbs. (30 kg.) is free. On short journeys,
however, the traveller is advised to limit himself to a small portman-
teau that he can take into the carriage and, if necessary, wield himself,
as the treatment of trunks in the luggage-van is not very gentle, and
generally a long delay takes place on arrival before the baggage is dis-
tributed. Articles of value should not be entrusted to trunks, as robbery
en route is not unknown, and the railway-company does not hold itself
responsible for losses of this kind. — A hand-bag is called maleta^ a
trunk haiil, the luggage-check taldn or loletin de equipage. The porter
(mozo) receives 30 c.-l p. for carrying the baggage from the train to the
cab or vice versa. In checking small baggage at the left luggage-office,
passengers should see that the correct number of articles (huUos) is
entered on the receipt.
At the frontier-Stations of Hendaye,Irun, Oerb^re, andPort-Bou
there are Monbt Changers , who can supply Spanish money to a
moderate amount. — The trains all run on Madrid time (comp.
p. ii), and the difference between railway and local time is often
considerable. — Carriages have always to be changed on the frontier
owing to the difference between the gauges of France and Spain,
but the trains are run alongside of each other and the inconvenience
is reduced to a minimum. — Information as to the Trains de Luxe
'p. xv) and Sleeping Caes (saloru^liU) on the express-trains is
RAILWAYS. xt!1
given in the text in connection with the various routes. The trains
on the main iines are also provided ^with flrst-class view-compart-
ments (herlinas) , with so-called sleeping compartments (berUnaa^
comas; seats only), and sleepin|^ compartments with toilet accom-
modation (eamat'tocadoret). The fare on the first of these is raised
10 per cent, with a minimum of 27 1/2 p. Three or four passengers
may aacore the whole of a sleeping compartment for a minimum
of 8272 or liO p. The fare for the camas-trocaderos is 60 per cent
above first-class fare (minimum 42 p.), hut a whole one may he
secured for four ordinary fares.
BsTUKN Tickets (bilUUs de ida y vueltajy available for 1-2 days,
are issued on a few lines only, and the reduction in the fare is gener-
ally insignificant
GoLcuLAB TouB TicxBTS (viajes eirculares) may he obtained
for either Spain or Portugal, but none is issued embracing the chief
cities of both countries. Their use is attended by considerable restric-
tions on the traveller's liberty , but those who do not shun this in-
convenience may best procure them at Madrid. A circular ticket for
Andalusia (Madrid, Alc&zar, G6rdova, Granada, Malaga, Jerez, Cadiz,
Seville , and Toledo) is available for 60 days (fares 184 p. 35 c,
139 p. 40 c.); for Portugal (Madrid, Valladolid, Palencia, Oporto,
Coimbra, Lisbon, Caceres, Plasencia) for 60 days (140 p. 10 c, 112
p. 65 c). For details, see the Quia general de FerrocarriUi (p. xv).
The circular tickets for combined tours in France and Spain have
been diacontlnued owing to the instability of the Spanish currency.
Tramwayi (tramvCas) are found in all the larger towns, but
steam or the electric motor is used for them only in a few places in
N.Spain. The cars are called coches. Smoking is almost universal.
Biligeneei , in the form of large omnibuses drawn by 6-12 mules
or horses, are now of comparatively little Importance to the tourist.
The front seats in the berlina are better and a flttle dearer than the
seats in the inUri6r. Places should be secured in good time. A
small fee is usually given to the driver (mayoral).
BtMuuboati. A voyage on the Mediterranean is a charming ex-
perience in good weather, but off the Atlantic coast of the peninsula
the sea is generally rough and sea-sickness is apt to spoil all plea-
sure. There are several lines of steamers between England and the
Iberian Peninsula.
From London. HalFs Line every Wed. to Lisbon (6 days; fare Bl. 6*.,
return lOl. IQc.), Gibraltar (TVs days^ 71 7«., ret. 12^ 12«.), Malaga (11 days;
82. S«., ret. 151. i6t.)y and Cadiz (14 days; 92. 9«., ret. 161. i5«.), occasion-
ally calline also at Vigo (3 days ; 6/. (m.). General Steam Navigation Co.
every three weeks to Oporto (3 days; il. ii., ladies 10k. extra). Fenintular
(nd Oriental Co. weekly and Oriental and Pacific Co. fortnightly to Gibral-
t*T (4 days; 1st cl. 10/., ret. 16/. ; 2nd cl. 6/., ret. 10/.). MacAndrevo d:
Oo.'t eargO'Steamers, with room for a few passengers, fortnightly to Seville
(ca. 18 days; 10/.) and less freqnently to Barcelona (ca. 12 days; 12/.),
caUiiu; more or less regularly at S. Sebastian, Bilbao, and Santander
(lare M.)» Coninna, Vigo, and Gijon (6/.), Malaga and Cadiz (8/.), Almeria
(10/.), Cartagena, Valencia, and Alicante (12/). — Fkom Sodthampton.
Bakdekeb's Spain. b
xviii STEAMBOATS.
Ropal Mail Steam Packet Co. every aUernato Wed. to Vigo (18 hrb.; 1st
cl. 6i. 10«., ret. 9/. 15*. ; 2nd cl. 5i.) and Lisbon (60 brs. ; 8«., ret. 12«., 2nd
cl. 5;.). — From Liverpool. Pacific Steam Navigation Co. fortnightly to
Vigo (61. 10«.. 4;.) and Lisbon (8;., 5;.). SinglefiurWi and Booth^e steamers
monthly to Lisbon; Cunard Co. and Mou Line at intervals to various ports.
Tlie most important of the French steamers plying to the penin-
sula are those of the Compagme Genirale TraruatlcBniique, leaving
Marseilles fortnightly for Malaga, Gibraltar, and Tangier (comp.
p. 380). — American travellers may sail from New York to Gibral-
tar by one of the fine steamers of the North Oerman Lloyd, start-
ing once a fortnight (8-9 days; fare $ 90-$ 175) and going on
from Gibraltar to Genoa (agents in GibraltaT, Onetti ^ Sons, En-
gineer Lane). The opening of the new railway from Algeciras to
Bobadilla (junction for Madrid, Cordova, Granada, etc. ; comp. R. 40)
makes this a very convenient mode of entering the peninsula for the
tourist from the United States or Canada. — German steamers nn
to various Spanish ports from Hamburg and Bremen. — The Spanish
Coasting Steamers, generally small and poorly equipped, are duly
mentioned in the text (comp. pp. 252, 299, 380, 387, 435, etc.).
Tickets should be taken personally from the agents (eonsignatarioi).
As the hoars of departure are very uncertain, especially in the case of
the less important lines, it is well to defer tliis until the steamers are
actually in the harbour. Ladies should always travel in the saloon, but
gentlemen of modest requirements will find the second cabin quite en-
durable.
LuaoAGB is usually free, but must be confined to articles of per-
sonal use.
The Steward expects a tip of Va-l P* P®' d*y> *iid more if he has
to perform special services for the traveller.
Embarkation and Disembarkation. Among the disadvantages of a sea-
journey to Spain are the annoyance of the custom-house formalities (comp.
ppi zii, xiii) and the most inadequate arrangements for embarking or
disembarking. The steamboat companies, instead of providing boats for
the landing or at least insisting on some decency from the Spanish boatmen
(boter at), /wholly abandon their helpless passengers to the insolence and
extortion of the latter. In some ports, such as Gibraltar, Cadiz, and
Malaga, the boatmen are absolutely shameless in their demands, es-
pecially in bad weather or if the passengers are ladies travelling alone.
The traveller should not enter the boat until a complete understanding
has been reached as to the inclusive fare for himself and his impedi-
menta, and he should never pay until every article of his luggage has
been safely landed on the deck or on shore. In cases of dispute, appli-
cation may be made to the Capitan del Puerto, who lives at the harbour.
■>- Small articles may be kept in the state-room, but trunks are deposited
in the hold. The passenger should see that the latter are properly
labelled for their destination.
Cycling. Cyclists entering Spain obtain a pass available for
six months on payment of 1 p. and a deposit of 84 c. per kilogramme
on the weight of their machines. The deposit is returned if the
cyclist leaves the country within the prescribed period. Used cycles
are admitted into Portugal free of duty. The roads vary greatly ; the
best are to the N. of Madrid. Cyclists will find useful hints in Mr.
^ Mrs. Workman's 'Sketches awheel in Fin de Siecle Iberia' (Lon-
don, 1897).
xix
IV. Post Otftoo. Telegraph Ottce.
The Foit Offtoe (Corrio)^ even in large towns, is generally open
for a few hours only, while special branches of business, such as the
distribution of poste restante letters (cartas en Uata) or the despatch
of registered letters (cartas certificadas), are carried on at different
and often-changed parts of the day. Time and trouble may, there-
fore, be spared by baying one's letters addressed to a hotel. Ad-
dresses should be short and simple and are best written in Spanish,
with the words Scnor Don (Senora Dona) before the proper name
(thus: 8enor Don Samuel WelUr ^ fidtel de Paris, Sevilla, Spain).
The affix Esquire should be omitted. In claiming letters at the post-
office, the showing of a visiting-card (tarjeta) is much more effi-
cacious than a verbal utterance of the name. — Stamps (sellot) are
sold by tobacconists only, not at post-offices. Letter-boxes (Inadnes)
are to be found only at the post-office, in the larger hotels, and
at tobacconists'. Important letters should be posted by the writer
himself. Registered letters must be sealed on the back with five
seals, and endorsed with the name and address of the sender.
Tbe Letter Batb for the town of posting, Gibraltar, and Portugal is
10 e. per Vs oz. (16 grammes), for the rest of Spain and Tangier 15 c, for the
countries of the postal union (para el extranjero) 25 c. In case of insufficient
postage, double the deficiency is charged. — Post Cards (iarjeta postal)
for both Spain and abroad 10 c; for Gibraltar or Portugal 5 c. — Printed
Vjkm;B(impre»os)foT Spain 1/40. per lOgr., abroad 5 c. per 60 gr. — Cohmbr-
CUL Sakflss (mueatras de eomercio) 5 e. per 20 gr., abroad 5 c. per 60 gr.
— Bbgistratioh Fee 25 c. — Postal money orders are not issued, but
Letters of Valub (cartas con valores declaretdos) may be sent to Spanish
and foreign addresses. — Registered lelters and letters with valuables are
not given up unless the addressee shows his passport or is identified by
two witnesses known to the post-office officials. It is, therefore, better
to have letters of this kind sent to a hotel. — The postman (eartero)
receives 5 c. for every Spanish letter he delivers, but is bound to leave
foreign letters without charge.
Postal Parcels (paquetet pottales)^ not exceeding 7 lbs. in weight,
may be sent abroad but not in Spain. Such parcels must be handed in
at the Despacho Central (p. zvi) of the railway.
Telegrami (Telegramas) may be written in Spanish, Portuguese,
English, French, German, or Italian. The rate for a domestic tel-
egram is 1 ^. for 16 words, and 10 c. for each additional word, but
only half that rate between places in the same prorince. Telegrams
to (Jreat Britain cost 46 c. per word, Gibraltar 19, Portugal 13,
France 26, Belgium 33, Holland 38, Switzerland 33, Germany 33,
Austria and Hungary 42, Italy 36, Sweden 47, Russia 73, Turkey 80 c,
United States 1 p. 60 c. Words of more than 15 letters count as
two. In addition to the rate per word a fee of 6 0. is paid on each
fweign despatch, and it is advisable to take a receipt (reciboj, which
costs 10 c. Urgent telegrams (telSgramas wrgentes), taking precedence
of all others, may be sent for thrice the ordinary rates. — Telegrams
are paid for with postage-stamps (seWos, see above) ; but money is
accepted at railway-offices. The smaller railway-stations generally
have private telegraph-offices only, the rates of which are higher.
b*
V. Hotels. BeBtanrauts. Beer Hoases. Cafis. Cigani.
Hotels with tlie comfort and international character of the large
flrst-class hotels in the leading European countries do not exist in
Spain, with a very few exceptions in such towns as Madrid or Se-
ville, and hence the traveller must not expect too much from the
houses advertised by their landlords as *hotels de prim era clase'.
In most of the frequented resorts, however, there are now very fair
hotels, corresponding to the hetter second-class houses of France or
Italy i their proprietors are often Italians and do all in their power
to satisfy the reasonable requirements of foreign guests. The uni-
versal custom is to charge a round sum per day for room and full
board (as on the ^American plan'), even if the stay does not exceed
24 hours. The first breakfast is, however, often charged extra. The
food is generally good and plentiful, especially at dinner, and the
bedrooms are clean and well cared for. The public rooms on the
other hand are as a rule small and uncomfortable, and in many
houses there is no general sitting-room at all. The waiters are often
Italians and sometimes Germans. English and French are generally
understood and spoken after a fashion. — In the smaller towns not
specially frequented by tourists the traveller has to be content with
unpretending Fondas of a genuine Spanish cast. The cuisine in
these is not to everyone's taste; the equipment and cleanliness of
the bedrooms are often inadeqiiate for even moderate requirements;
the sanitary arrangements are abominable; the servants are fre-
quently lazy, disobliging, and wholly deaf to all requests involving
the slightest deviation from the usual national routine. The guests
are mainly Spaniards, whose smoking and other unprepossessing
habits at table must be endured with as much equanimity as pos-
sible. The charges are, of course, much lower than in the large
hotels. — On a similar level stand the Casas de HvAsptdes, or board-
ing-houses, which are to be found in almost every town and are
frequented mainly by natives. They afford a good Insight into the
domestic life of Spain, but that and their inexpensiveness are their
only advantages. Few of them are fit for foreign ladies. A know-
ledge of Spanish is indispensable. — The Posadas in the towns
and the Ventas in the country are miserable taverns with which the
tourist need have nothing to do.
At most railway-stations the trains are met by private omnibuses
(coches), either belonging to the hotel, in which case a charge of
V4"^V2 P- is made in the bill, or to a livery-stable, in which case
the fare is paid direct to the driver or guard (V4~a p-, each trunk
V4"V2P« > bargaining advisable). In the larger towns the traveller may
use the Omnibus General (p. xvi) or a cab (cache de plaza^ or de pun-
to), both of which have the advantage of enabling the traveller to drive
from house to house until he finds rooms to suit him, while those
who arrive in the hotel-omnibus have practically to take what is
RESTAURANTS. xxi
offered them. In each ease the fare should he agreed upon hefore
starting. If desired, luggage may be deposited at the despacho
central (p. xvi) until rooms are secured.
The first step at the hotel should be to settle with the landlord or
his representative on the dally rate (^cuanto pago por diaf); if the de-
mand seem excessive, a lower sum may be offered without offonce. In
Madrid the rates are 8-80 p. per day, in provincial towns 6-16 p>; in
places off the beaten track the charge is sometimes only 4-6 p. The
charge varies according to the equipment and position of the rooms; those
on the upper floors or facing the court are usually much cheaper. It
should be noticed that in Madrid and a few towns of N. Spain the floors
are named piHmer piso^ pUo principal^ and pi$o tegundo^ so that the last
is equivalent to our third story. — The repose of the traveller is disturbed
in almost all Spanish towns by the cry of the serine or night-watchman.
Other enemies of repose may be repelled by Persian or Keating s Insect
powder, a supply of which should be brought from England. In Malaga,
Seville, and other parts of S. Spain the Moaquitoe* are often troublesome,
and the traveller should be careful to close the window before introduc-
ing a light into his bedchamber. In the best hotels the beds are protected
by mosquito-nets (mosqviUrc). — The Spaniard generally takes his first
breakfast (de$aifuno) in his own room, and the public dining-room is
hardly ready for visitors till somewhat later in the day. The dejeuner or
second breakfast (almvereo)^ consisting of eeg-dishes and one or two kinds
of meat, is generally ready from 11 to 1. Dinner (comida) is usually
served at 6, 6.90. or 7, but in Castile and the Basque provinces the fa-
vourite hour is 8 p.m. The table-wine (vino eotnun or d« me»a)^ generally
Valdepenas (p. 80l), is generally palatable, but somewhat heavy; it may
be mixed with seltzer-water. The ordinary drinking-water is not safe
except in a few towns supplied with proper water-works. — A few English
or French journals will usually be found in the hotel reading-rooms.
The guest's departure should be notified in good time at the office
(de$pacho)y as otherwise the day of departure may be reckoned as a full
day. As a rule no allowance is made for absence from meals. — For
fees, comp. p. xxiv.
The following expressions may be found useiul in dealing with the
washerwoman (la pkmehadora) : soiled linen, la ropa nicia ; clean linen,
la ropa limpia; shirt, camUa; night-shirt, eamiia dedormir; collar, cuillo;
cuflB, ptifhs; under-shirt, chemise, camitita; drawers, caltotkdlloi ; stock-
ings, ealzetlna, midim; handkerchief, pafivilo.
Beitaurftntt. Good restaurants are found only in a few of the
larger towns ; the cuisine is generally Spanish , but occasioiuilly
French. The traveller need not now fear the obtrusion of oil or
garlic, except in very out-of-the-way places. One may order either
a regular meal (eomida del dia) or selected dishes (platosj k la carte
(lista). Ordinary table-wine is seldom charged for. The waiter
(eamarero) expects a tip of 25 c. The traveller should count his
change. The following is a list of the ordinary dishes.
Ordubres, hors d'oeuvres. Caldo^ broth.
Tortilla, omelette. Cocido, boiled beef (au naturel).
HtUvos, eggs (blandosj boiled; mny Came, meat.
eoeidos , hard-boiled; pasadot por FrUo, fried or baked.
agua, soft-boiled; fritot, fried; Asado, roast.
estrellados, poached). Asado de temera, roast veal.
Sopa, soup. Ro^tif, roast beef.
8opa de perboi, soup with green veg- Biflec * la parrilla, broiled steak.
etables and bread. ChiiUta de eerdo, pork chop.
Sopa de arr6z, rice soup. Camiro, mutton.
Ixii
BEER HOUSES. OAF^S.
.CordirOf lamb.
/Vomfrf'tf, eold meat.
Leoffua^ tongue.
RiUM^ kidney.
BigadOy liver.
J?ucfMro (or Olla)^ a stew of beef or
mutton, bacon, chicken, garbanzos
(see below), and other vegetables
(the national dish of Spain).
Boquerones^ baked anchovies.
Bacaiao, ling \ dried cod.
Lenffuddo^ sole.
Salmdn^ salmon.
Merlum^ a kind of cod.
Langotta, lobster.
LanffostinoBf shrimps.
Tntcha^ trout.
Otircuy oysters (good in winter only).
JamAn erudo^ raw ham.
Jamdn en dulce^ ham cooked in sweet
wine (cold).
SalcMchdn^ saa<--age.
Pollo^ fowl.
PatM), turkey.
Perdie^ partridge.
PiiMn^ paldma^ pigeon.
CodorMg^ quail.
LegM>ru^ vegetables.
PatdkUj potatoes.
Alcachofas, artichokes.
OuUdnteij peas.
Oarbanzos^ chick-peas (a national
dish).
Leni^as^ lentils.
Btpdrragoi^ asparagus.
Colifl&r^ cauliflower.
Judioi^ habichuikUf beans.
Ifottdzay mustard.
Ajoj garlic.
Aeeite, oil.
Vindffre, vinegar.
AzfUar, sugar.
Sal, salt.
Pimiinta, pepper.
AceitihuM, olives.
Rdbanotj radishes.
FrvtOy fruit.
Ceretiu, cherries.
Fretat, strawberries.
Pera, pear.
ManzmMy apple.
AWarieoque, apricot.
Melocotdn, peach.
Uva$y grapes.
PosM, raisins.
Almsndrtu. almonds.
Meldn, melon.
LitMfn, lemon.
NarcKkfa, orange.
Pottres, dessert.
Pcm frances or de Viena, French or
Vienna bread.
Manteca de vaca, butter.
Queso, cheese.
Vino, wine (dulce, sweety bianco,
white \ Unto, red ; generoao, dessert).
Beer Homes (Cervecerfas). English or German beer on draught
is found only at a few seaports, such as Barcelona and Valencia, but
bottled beer may be obtained in most hotels and caftfs. The use of
Spanish beer, especially in summer, is almost certain to produce
diarrhoea in the unacclimated foreigner. Excellent and refreshing
summer-beverages, such as horchata (orgeat) d^ chufas, agrds, ctgua
de cehada, limdn helado, and zarzaparriUa , are furnished by the
horchatertcu,
Cafifli except at Madrid and Barcelona, are usually very late in
opening and frequented almost entirely in the afternoon and evening.
They are often deficient in comfort and cleanliness, and in winter
the dense clouds of tobacco smoke are apt to he unpleasant. The
waiter (camarero) expects a tip of 10 c.
Coffee is taken either with milk (ea/i con leche) or without (cc^fi iolo).
The favourite drink of the Spaniard is, however, chocolate (chocolate ; &
la francesa, with whipped cream). Cows' milk (leche de vaca) is very dear
and not safe unless boiled. Gjats* milk (leche de cobra) is much more
used and is considered very wholesome, but it is apt to produce diarrhoea
in the unaccustomed drinker. The caf^s also furnish roUs (panecilloe),
biscuits (bizcochot), pastry (bolloe)^ seltzer water (otfua de SeUt, Hfdn),
brandy {copUa de comtc, a glass of brandy), etc. — The selection of ices
is large (helado de lim&n, freta, vainilla, etc. \ 50-75 c. per portion). Ice
is Ttielo.
CHURCHES, MUSEUMS, etc. xxiil
HewqpaMrs (JhriMioot) are seUom fornlsfaed in the caM, bat may be
buaght at tne entrance or from tbe newsboys fasual price o c). The
Madrid papers mentioned at p. 57 elrciUate tbrougbout the whole country.
Tobaeoo and Cigars are a monopoly of Government. The ordin-
ary varieties are sold in the so-called EitancoSt while good Havanna
cigars may be obtained in the special depots of the company.
The domestic cif^ars (puro$ ptnitmtkiru) sell from 3 to 20 c. apiece. —
Havannas (ffabanos) cost from 25 c. to 2 p., and those at 30 and 85 c. are
very popniar. — The cigars from the Philippines (Filipinos) cost 6-60 c,
those chiefly smoked costing 20 or 25 c.
OiffantUa (Ciffarrillo$) are generally very strong. Those known as de
Vahnda coat 40-60 c. a packet (ct^itaX with mouthpiece (tmboquiUadot)
50 c. Those from Gaba and the Philippines cost from 00 c. a packet
upwards.
Smotinff Tobacco (tdbaeo picado; hobra) is sold at 40 c. per onnce.
Wax Matchu (esriUat) are sold at all tobacco shops (5-10 e. per box).
YI. ChnreliM. Mnsenmi. Shops.
The larger Chnrelief are generally open till 11 or i% and again
after 3 p. m. ; some are open all day. Many of the smaller churches,
on the other hand, are closed for the day at 8 or 9 a. m. The stranger
should be careful not to distnrb the worshippers, but he may silently
inspect the objects of interest even during service, provided he
avoids the altar at which mass is actoally being said. Many of the
works of azt are in closed chapels or concealed by curtains, but the
facrittano will show these for a fimall gratuity (p. xxiv).
Xuseuins and Picture OsUeries are generally open on week-
days from 10 to 3, but most of them are closed on Sundays and
pnbhc holidays. Many are open only on Sat. or some other week-
day, but the stranger will usually gain admittance at other times
for a fee fcomp. p. xii).
Many Shops claim to have fixed prices (pricios fijos), but a re-
daction of the first demand will generally be made, especially in
purchases of considerable value. In shops not advertising fixed
prices the traveller should never offer more ihan two -thirds or
three-fourths of the price asked (regatear, to chaffer, to bargain),
and if necessary should walk quietly out of the place without buying.
The presence of valets de place or the assistance of hotel-employees
should be avoided, as they invariably receive a commission that
comes ultimately out of the traveller's pocket. It will, however, be
found advantageous to make purchases in the company of a native
acquaintance. The best goods come mostly from abroad and are
therefore dear.
xxlv
YII. Oratuities. Guides. Public Security. Beggars.
Oratuities are not customary in the few national or municipal
collections where a charge is made for admission, but in all other
cases, and especially in private galleries, the conserjes expect a tip.
The custom of giving fees is, indeed, universal in Spain, and the
traveller need never fear that a small gratuity will be taken amiss.
Drivers, guides, and donkey-boys all look as a matter of course for
a small pourboire (propinaj in addition to the charge agreed on, and
this may vary from 25 c. to 1 p. or more according to the nature
of their services. In museums a fee of ^/^-i p. is enough for two
persons, while double should be given for a party of three or four.
In churches the sacristan expects 26-50 c. for such small services as
drawing curtains or opening locked doors, but more (V2-IV2PO ^^^
more protracted attendance.
In the better hotels the gratuities may be reckoned at about 1 p.
per day for each person. Half of this should be given to the head-
waiter, while the other half should be divided equally between the
bedroom-waiter or chambermaid (muehacha) and the 'boots' (mozo).
The portier (portero) need not be tipped unless he has performed
some special service for the visitor. In smaller hotels and in the
country 60-76 c. per day is enough.
Onides (el guia^ guiaa) are superfluous for most travellers. None
should be employed except those recommended at the hotels. Pur-
chases should never be made in their presence (p. xxiii), and it is
better to make bargains with drivers and the like without their
assistance. Their pay is about 5 p. per day.
Public Security in the towns of Spain is on the same level as
in most other parts of Europe. For excursions into the interior, es-
pecially in S. Spain, it is advisable to make previous inquiries at
the barracks of the gendarmes (Casa Cuartel del Oiuxrdia Civil) as to
the safety of the route. The Qu&rdia Civil (dark-blue coat with red
facings and a three-cornered hat) is a select body of fine and
thoroughly trustworthy men, whose duties resemble those of the
Irish Constabulary. They have succeeded in making highway rob-
bery (handolerismo) practically a thing of the past, and the stranger
may place implicit confidence in them. On the other hand it is
seldom advisable to call in the help of the ordinary police (Ouardia
Municipal, Quwrdia de Orden Publico). In the case of a riot or other
popular disturbance, the stranger should get out of the way as
quickly as possible, as the careful policemen, in order to prevent
the escape of the guilty, are apt to arrest anyone they can lay their
hands on. If the stranger himself is the victim of an accident, he
can hardly count upon help, so universal is the fear of arrest. —
A special licence is necessary for carrying weapons.
Begging is the national pest of Spain. Innumerable practi-
tioners of this art beg from pure laziness, finding it an easy and
INTERCOURSE WITH THE PEOPLE. xxv
profitable profession ; others beg to pass the time ; many do so for
charitable purposes; and there are but few who beg from the pres-
sure of real necessity. Beggars accost the stranger on the* streets,
follow him into shops, caf^s, and hotels, and sit in swarms at all
chnrch-doors. In Valencia and S. Spain they even besiege the
railway tieket-offlces and the passing trains at wayside stations. In
many cases the traveller is almost forced to part with a few coppers
in order to enjoy the view or the work of art without molestation ;
but as a general rule beggars should be as far as possible ignored.
Nothing should ever be given to children.
Ym. Interconne with the People.
In educated circles, particularly in S. Spaiu, the stranger is at
first apt to be carried away by the lively, cheerful, and obliging
tone of society, by the charming spontaneity of manner, and by
the somewhat exaggerated politeness of the people he meets. He
should, however, avoid turning the conversation on serious matters,
and should above all refrain from expressing an opinion on religious
or political questions. The national pride of the Spaniard and his
ignorance of foreign conditions render a collision in such cases al-
most inevitable. The stranger should confine himself to the r6le of
an uncritical and amiable visitor.
The Spaniard of the lower classes is not devoid of national pride,
but he possesses much more common sense and a much healthier
dislike of humbug than his so-called superiors. The tactful stranger
will not find it difficult to get into touch with him. Two points,
however, must be carefully remembered. In the first place it is
necessary to maintain a certain courtesy of manner towards even the
humblest individual, who always expects to be treated as a *cabal-
Mro\ In the second place the traveller, while maintaining his
rights with quiet decision, should avoid all rudeness or roughness,
which simply serves to excite the inflammable passions of the un-
educated Spaniard. Common intercourse in Spain is marked by a
degree of liberty and equality which the American will find easier
to understand than the European, to whom the extreme independ-
ence of the middle and lower classes, as exemplified, f. g.^ in the
demeanour of shop-keepers, will often seem to border on positive
incivility.
The traveller has to rely more on himself in Spain than in al-
most any other country of Europe. Full and accurate information
as to means of communication, the postal arrangements, the hours
&t which galleries and museums are open, and the like can seldom
he obtained even in the hotel-offices. Waiters, portiers, and other
servants are of absolutely no use in this matter, partly owing to
their illiteracy and partly to their complete indifference to anything
beyond their own particular sphere. Enquiries in the street, unless
of the very simplest nature, should be made only to well-dressed
xxvi THEATRES.
people. It is desirable to avoid all contact with the members of
the lowest class, who haunt the footsteps of the stranger in towns
like Bnrgos, Avila, Toledo, and Granada, offering their advice and
services as guides. Children who act in this manner should be
ignored or answered simply with *anda' (go away). Though the
ordinary man in Spain has a very clear notion of right and wrong
and is as a rule fairly l^onest and honourable, it is better not to
trust to the sense of justice of cabmen and the like. In all cases,
even where there is a fixed tariff, it is advisable to come to a clear
understanding beforehand. The gratuity should not be forgotten at
the end of the trip (p. xxiv).
An interesting report published by the Spanish government in 1896
shows that, in a population of about 19,000,003, no fewer than 8,727,519
persons profess no occupation. Agriculture employs 4,033,491 men and
828,631 women. There are 97,257 active officials and 64,000 on the retired
list, 41,564 schoolmasters or teachera (of whom 19,9U) are females), 90,179
medical doctors, 91,227 mendicants (of whom 51,948 are females), 43,328
members of the clergy, and 28,549 nuns. The number of absolutely un-
lettered perjon-j is 6,101,470, including 2,686,616 females.
IX. Theatres. Bull Fights. Juego de Felota.
Theatres. In the larger theatres the performance generally lasts
from 8 or 8.30 p.m. to midnight. A few small theatres in Madrid,
Barcelona, Seville, and some other places give only *hour pieces'
(funciones por hora)^ short popular pieces with songs (zarzuelas)^
operettas, farces, and the like. The piece and the audience are
both changed at 9, 10, and 11 p.m., and thus several theatres of
this kind may be visited on the same evening. Tickets are usually
bought at the despacho on entering, but some of the larger theatres
have also a box-office (contaduria), where tickets may be bought
beforehand at an advanced price. In many oases an entrance-ticket
(entrada) must be obtained as well as that for the particular seat.
Gentlemen usually frequent the parquet (butdcia), which is also
quite comme il faut for ladies. Parties of 3-4 or more may take a box
(palco). Only a few of the most fashionable theatres have a cloak
room or *garderobe'. — The Spaniard is passionately fond of the
theatre, but absolute quiet is seldom observed during musical per-
formances. In some of the smaller provincial theatres smoking goes
on the whole evening. The intervals between the acts are apt to
be very long.
Bull Fights were instituted for the encouragement of proficiency
in the use of martial weapons and for the celebration of festal oc-
casions, and were a prerogative of the aristocracy down to the 16th
century. As the mounted Caballero encountered the bull armed
only with a lance, accidents were very frequent. No less than ten
knights lost their liveis at a single Fiesta de Toros in 1512. The
present form of the sport, so much less dangerous for the man and
BULL FIGHTS. xxvii
80 mueh more erael for the beast, was adopted about the beginning
of the 17th eentary. The eenstruetion, in 1749, of the flret great
Pkaa de Toros in Madrid definitely conYerted the onoe chivalrous
sport into a public spectacle, in which none took part but profes-
sional Torsos. In Central and S. Spain bull -fights (CorHdaa de
Toro$) are now held on eyery Sunday and holiday from Easter
till November. Those held during the dog-days and after the
middle of October are, however, the so-called NooiUddaay an in-
ferior and espeeially brutal yariety of the sport, taken part in by
young bulls (fwviUos) and inexperienced fighters and attended only
by the lower classes. In N. Spain and Catalonia, where trade and
industry flourish, bull-fights are held only on a few special festiyals
and during the annual fair (fSria), The total number of *Plazas de
Toios' in Spain is now about 220, and in these, during the season of
1896, were held 478 fights. No fewer than 1218 bulls, valued at
60,000^., and 5730 horses, valued at 20,000^., were killed during
the exhibition.
The Bull Ring is generally of the shape its name indicates. The
arena (redondel) is separated from the seats of the spectators by a
wooden barrier about 5 ft. high, behind which runs a narrow passage.
The front and exposed rows of seats are named AaiintoB de fiarr^ra,
de Conlraharriraj and de TendCdo, The upper and protected rows
are called OradaSy and are divided into DelanUras and AsUntos de
Grada. Above the gradas are the Palcos (boxes) and the Andanddas,
The gradas are the best places for gentlemen. "When ladies are of
the party it is advisable to sit either in a palco or in the delanteras
de grada, as exit is then possible at any moment without attracting
attention. The yisitor should be careful to secure a ticket for the
shady side of the arena (boletm de aombra). — Each bull -ring has
an hospital for the wounded, and most also have a chapel, where
the fighters prepare for the combat by prayer and partaking of the
Holy Eucharist.
Most of the Bulls are reared in Andalusian establishments
(vaeddasj, those of the Duke of Ver£gua and Sefior Mittra having
the greatest reputation at present. They must not be more than
five years old. Their value is from 1000 to 1500 p. (40-60«.). From
their pastures they are either sent to their destination in cages by
railway or are driven along the highroad with the aid of trained
oxen (eahestroB), At the ring they are kept and fed in open eorrdtes
or yaids. About 4 or 6 hours before the exhibition they are placed
in the dark Torile$ adjoining the arena, whence they are finally
driven into the ring, wearing the badge (devisa) of their breeder
and goaded into as great a state of excitement as possible. — The
Bull Fightbks, like their victims, are usually Andalusians and are
recruited almost entirely from the rural population. Outside the
ring they are recognizable by the short pig-tail in which they wear
their hair. The annual income of an expert amounts to 8*15,000
xxviii BULL FIGHTS.
pesetas, and a popular Etpada will Bometimes clear ten or eYen
twenty times as much. Thus Rafa£l Guerra, born at Cordova in
1862, killed 225 bulls in the season (temporada) of 1894 and netted
no less than 76,000 duros (15,000^).
The buU-flghts are held under the superintendence of some
provincial or municipal official, who gives the signal to start with
a handkerchief. The AlguaeiUs (police-officers) then ride into the
arena, clad in an old Spanish dress and accompanied by the sound
of drums and trumpets, and drive the people to their seats. They
are followed by the brilliant processional entrance of the bull-fighters
(Fateo de la CuadriUa)^ during which the band plays a military
march. At the head of the procession walk the EipddtUf with the
Sobreaaliinte who takes their place in case of accident ; afterwards
come the Banderilleros^ the mounted Picaddres, and the attendants
on foot (Chulos or Monot), with the team of mules used in dragging
off the dead horses and bulls. After greeting the president the
supernumerary fighters retire, while the others retain their places.
The president throws the key of the toril into the ring; an algnacil
picks it up and hands it to the Torilero; the torilero opens the
den ; and the bull dashes into the arena.
The Fight (Lidia) consists of three parts (SuSrtes). In the
8uerte de Picdr, or first act, the picad6res receive the charge of the
bull, prod him in the neck with their pike (garr(Scha)j and endea-
vour to withstand his onset with their whole strength. In most
cases, however, the worn-out old hack which the picador bestrides
is cruelly wounded by the bull and overthrown with his rider in
the sand. To avoid more serious consequences the chulos attract
the attention of the bull by dexterous waving of their cloaks (eapio)
and so draw him off to the other side of the ring. When the bull
has been sufficiently wearied (eastigado) by the picadores, the
Suerte de Banderilledr\ or second act, begins. The banderilWros
meet the bull in full charge, jump cleverly to one side as he nears
them, and stick the banderillas in his neck as he passes. If pursued
too closely by the Infuriated animal, they escape by springing over
the barrier. The banderillas are barbed darts, ornamented with
streamers of coloured paper. Usually they are about 30 inches
long, but the banderillas d cuarta are just one-fifth of this. The
planting (paredr) of the banderillas takes place from the side (al
cuartio or aesgo) or de frente (from the front). The most dangerous
modes, especially when the short darts are used, is when the bande-
rillero stands still (al quiebro) or even sits in a chair (ensilla) until the
darts are planted. ^Cowardly' or *sluggish' bulls are 'enlivened' by
banderillas provided with explosive crackers (de fuego). Unusually
'brave' or vicious bulls are tired out by all kinds of manceuvres with
the cloak (florSoaJy or the performers leap between his horns (al
trascuemo) or vault over his back with a pole (de la garroeha). When
this has lasted long enough, the president gives the signal for the
JTJEGO DE PELOTA. xxix
Suerte de Matdr^ the third and last act of the drama. The Egpada,
armed with a red cloth (muUta) and a Bword (est6que)^ approaches the
hox of the president and dedicates to him the death of the bull (brk^
ddr). He then teases the bull by waying the cloth and endeavours by
various devices (pases natvreUea^ tUtos^ depeehoy reddndo$y eambiadot^
etc.) to get it Into the proper position for the death-blow (atocdda).
The usual method is termed d volapU; the Espada meets the rush
of the bull, steps nimbly aside at the proper moment, and plunges
the' sword downwards through the animars neck into its heart. If
this stroke is properly dealt, the bull falls at once, but it seldom
succeeds at the first attempt. Another mode is the so-called re-
dbiendo, in which the Espada receives the bull standing and allows
it to run on the point of the sword. The eot^ de grace is given to
the fallen animal by a PuntilUro^ who pierces the spinal marrow
with a dagger. The dead bull and horses are dragged out by teams
of mules iTith jingling bells, the traces of blood are covered up
with fresh sand, and the show begins again with a fresh bull.
Generally six or eight bulls are disposed of before twilight puts an
end to the sport.
All attempts to abolish bull-fighting have been vain. Neither
pope nor clergy, neither monarchy nor republic has been able to
eradicate this passion of the Spanish people. It is bound to endure,
until a general elevation of the standard of public taste and morals
rebels against the brutal and bloody spectacle.
Many visitors will agree with Mr. Finck, who writes : *Six bulls
were to be killed ; I left after the third had been butchered, and
his carcass dragged out by the mules — equally disgusted and
bored; and nothing could ever induce me to attend another j not
only because of its brutal and cruel character, but because it is the
most unsportsmanlike and cowardly spectacle I have ever seen\
And again: *No man who has a sense of true sport would engage
with a dozen other men against a brute that is so stupid as to expend
its fury a hundred times in succession on a piece of red cloth, ignor-
ing the man who holds it'.
The ^Literatnra Taurfna' is very extensive. Among the best books
on the subject are Moratin'M *Origen y Progreso de las Fiestas de Toros\
BedoycCt ^ffistoria del Toreo'', Sanchez de Neira't 'Diccionario Taur6mico\
and the ^Annates del Tor^o' of Velazquez y Sanchez. In 'Wild Spain', by
A. Chapman and W. T. Buck, a chapter is devoted to bull- fighting. — The
most widely read journals devoted to bull-fighting are El Torio. El Endno^
and La Lidia, all published at Madrid ^ the last is admirably illustrated.
Leopoldo Vdtqftet''z 'Beglamento vigente para las Corridas de Toro'* gives
the official regulations of bnll-fighting in the province of Madrid. — En
Las AmUu del Toro, Pan y Toroe^ Pepe Hillo^ and El Padrino del Nono are
four popular plays relating to buU-ftghting.
The Jnego de Pelota, or ball-game of the Basques (comp. pp. 3,
4), is an interesting form of sport which the stranger should not fail
to see. Since the beginning of this century it has almost ceased
to be played as a village game, and it is now known mainly in the
XXX CLIMATE.
fonn of a public spectacle given by professional players (pHotdris).
It is played in Navarre, Catalonia, and Madrid as well as in the
Basque Provinces; but tlie police restrictions on tbe amount of
betting allowed to the spectators bave, from the Spanish point of
view, robbed the game of most of its charm. The game belongs in
a broad general way to the tennis family and has its nearest analogue
in the pallone of the Italians. It is played in large halls called
frorUdnes, 36 ft. wide and 210-260 ft. long. One side of the hall,
which is often roofless, is occupied by the court (concha) and' its
annex (contracancha)j while the other side and one end are occu-
pied by the seats for the spectators. The connoisseurs and experts
alTect the seats in the contracancha, behind the umpires, but strangers
should select the entremelos or palcoa. Each side or party (bandoj,
distinguished by its colour (red or white), consists of a delantero,
or forward, and two zagueroa^ or backs. Each player wears a kind
of cestus (cesta) on his right hand', attached to a leathern gauntlet.
The balls are of indiarubber, covered with leather, and weigh 120
grammes (rather' over 4 oz.). The serve is termed el sdque. The
delant^r9 strikes the ball against the high wall bounding one side
of the court, in such a way that it rebounds within a given area on
the other side of the net. One of the opposite zagu^ros drives it
back in the same fashion, and so on da capo. Each failure counts a
point (tanto) to the opponents, and the side first making the required
number of tantos wins. The scores are marked on the wall of the
contrecancha. The players are invariably Basques or Navarrese.
Details will be found in *La Peldta y loa Pelotaris' by P(^a y Oo9ii
(1892), the 'Teori'a del Juego de Peldta' by j: (1893), and 'ElJuegode Pelota'
by Mirallag (1893).
Cock Tighting (Combdtes or Rina8 de Gallos, Funciones Qallis-
ticasJnB also popular in Spain, especially among the less reputable
classes, but it is attended by so much disgusting brutality that the
tourist is advised to have nothing to do with it.
X. Climate and Health. Physicians and Chemists.
Climate. As in population, configuration of soil, and character
of scenery, so also in climate the Iberian Peninsula shows the most
striking contrasts. The central plateau, surrounded by mountains,
has, as indicated at pp. 26, 62, all the characteristics of a con-
tinental climate : cold winters and hot summers, great variations
in temperature, little rain or moisture. The mean annual tem-
perature of Madrid is 66« Fahr. TLondon 49.5<», New York 52.9«) ; the
mean temperature of Jan. is 40**, of July 76®. The lowest tem-
perature on record is 12° (20*^ below freezing-point), the highest 111°.
The annual rainfall of Madrid is 15 inches (London 241/2? New York
41i/2)> t^at of Salamanca 11 inches.
In the basin of the Ebro the variations of temperature are less
violent. Saragossa has a mean temperature of 68®, with a min-
CLIMATE. xxxi
imum of .19® and a maximum of 106**. The rainfall (comp. p. 160)
is also inoonsiderable.
The climate of the Gataloniaii and Valencian shore of the Mediter-
ranean is probably the most delightful in the peninsula. The winter
heat resembles that of theLigurianRiTierato theE. and W. of Genoa,
but raw winds, snow, and night-firosts are even more rare and the
variations of temperature are less extreme. The amount of sun-
shine is, however, considerably less. The heat of summer is tem-
pered by the sea-breezes, and the rainfall is equably divided among
the different seasons. The average annual temperature of Barcelona
is GO^Fahr. (Nice, 61®); that of the three winter months (Dec,
Jan., Feb.) is 49® (Nice 48®, San Remo 60®), and that of the
summer months (July, Aug., Sept.) is 73®. The mean relative
humidity is 69 and the rainfall is 30 inches (San Remo, 27 '/s inches).
The number of rainy days is 69 (San Remo 52 ; England 161), of
cloQdy days 75 (San Remo 58), of cloudless days 143 (San Remo, 152).
In Valencia the annual mean of the three winter months is 52®.
From the Pyrenees to Gape Oata, both on the Mediterranean
coast and in Portugal (comp. p. 463), the rainfall steadily diminishes
from N. to S. Valencia has 47.3 rainy days, with a precipitation of
19 inches, AUeante has 38.6 rainy days and a precipitation of 16 inches,
and at Mureia the fall is only 14 inches. The kingdom of Murcia
(p. 243), the only genuine palm-growing country in Europe, has a
truly African climate. In the town of Miweiaihe annual mean tem-
perature is 62®, while the summer heat rises to 112®. The air here
is of astonishing dryness (mean annual humidity 60 per cent), and
the winter sky is noted for its unclouded blue.
The Mediterranean coast of S. Spain, from Cape Oata to the Straits
of Gibraltar, has, thanks to its sheltered position at the S. base
of a lofty range of mountains, the mildest winter climate in the
continent of Europe. The luxuriance of its vegetation and the pre-
sence of the sugar cane give it an almost tropical character. The
mean annual temperature of Malaga is 65®Fahr., that of summer 77®,
that of winter 66®. The range is from 32® to 110®. The variations
of temperature are much less violent than on the E. ooast, the average
dally range of a winter's day amounting to only 14®, as compared
with 23® at Alicante. The mean relative humidity is 66. The number
of rainy days is 52V2 (precipitation 22 inches); only 40 days in the
year are overcast, while 195 are wholly cloudless.
On the Atlantic coast of Andalusia the summer is cooler and
the mean annual temperature is thus somewhat lower (Tarifa 63®).
The precipitation in San Fernando is 28V2 inches, In Huelva I78/4
inches, in Rio Tinto 25 inches. The summer heat increases as we
proceed from the coast into the interior. Seville has a mean sum-
mer temperature of 80® and a maximum of 117®, while the
climate of Ecija has earned for it the name of La SarUn, or the
firying-pan.
xxxii CLIMATE.
A very different set of conditions preTails on the N. coast of
Spain , from the Pyrenees to Galicia (comp. p. 2). The rainfall,
"which is by no means confined as in the S. to the cool seasons,
rises from 43 inches at Bilbdo and 59 inches at San Sebastian to
65 Inches at Santiago. Bilbao has 163 rainy days ; Ooiedo, where
the mean relative humidity is 81.6, has only 52 cloudless days in the
year. With the exception of a few days when a hot wind blows, the
N. provinces enjoy a cool and agreeable summer. The average
summer temperature of San Sebastian (67**) is not so very much
higher than that of the S. of England (Totnes 61®), while its winter
climate is little colder than that of Catalonia.
While the N. coast thus offers the best summer-quarters for those
in search of relief from the heat, the Mediterranean coast of Spain
may be strongly recommended as a winter-resort. Unfortunately,
however, the climatic advantages of such places as Alicanley Alme-
ria, and Malaga are largely counterbalanced by their dirt, dust, and
general lack of comforts. An increase in the number of foreign
visitors is the surest way to bring about a change for the better.
In the interior of Spain the visitor from N. Europe should alter
many of his customs, without indiscriminatingly adopting the habits
of the natives. In particular he should be careful to wear somewhat
warmer clothing than he would in similar temperatures at home.
In winter he should never go out without an overcoat and should
never fail to put it on at sunset. In the towns lying near the sierras
a cold is apt to be followed, not merely by a cough, but often by
severe inflammation of the lungs (the pulmonCa so dreaded by the
Spaniards themselves). The summer wear should also not be too
light, and a woollen undershirt is desirable. A rest in the hottest
part of the day is distinctly advisable, if possible in the form of a
siesta. At midsummer one should take care not to expose himself
to the sun and should avoid all violent bodily exercise. An over-
indulgence in fruit or alcohol, and other dietetic peccadillos may
easily bring on fever. Unpleasant effects consequent upon over-exer-
tion in the sun are helped by Vermouth di Torino or the Italian
liqueur Fernet- Brar^ca^ mixed with seltzer- water.
Foreign FhyBlcians are found only in a few towns, but are
always to be preferred when accessible. The medicines of the Spanish
Apothecaries (FarmaeCas) are often made up differently from those
of N. Europe. It is therefore advisable to be provided with a small
travelling medicine chest, the contents of which should include qui-
nine pills (for slight feverish attacks), Hoffmann's drops, rhubarb,
tincture of opium, and the like.
xsziii
XI. Chronological Table of the Chief STonta in Spanish History.
I. From the Earliatt TimM to the Xoorith Oonqu«tt»
B.C. The Iberians, the earliest inhabitants of the peninsula,
combine with the Celts, who entered it rii the Pyrenees
in prehistoric times, to form one people, the Celtiberians.
ca. 1100. The PhoBnicians found Cadiz.
237. Carthaginians invade Spain.
228. Hasdrubal, the Carthaginian, founds Cartagena.
205. Carthaginians driven from Spain by the Romans.
19. Roman conquest of Spain completed. The Basques, a
remnant of the original Iberians, alone maintain their
independence in the N.
A.D. 409. Vandals, Alans, and Suevi overrun Spain.
415. Appearance of the Visigoths.
466-483. Euric, King of the Visigoths, defeats the Suevi and
other tribes, conquers most of Spain, and puts an end to
the dominion of the Romans.
569-586. Leovigild, King of the Visigoths, first rules over the
whole peninsula.
586-601. Reccared renounces Arianism and becomes the first Cath-
olic king of Spain.
672-680. Wamba. Disintegration of Visigothic kingdom begins.
711. Roderick, the last Visigothic king, defeated and slain
by the Moors under Tarik.
713. Musa, viceroy of the Omayyad Caliph of Damascus, con-
quers all Spain except Galicia and Asturias. ^
718. Pelayo (d. 737), the Goth, elected king in Asturias.
734. Galicia conquered by the Moors.
11. From the Xooriih Invasion to the Union of Aragon and Oastile
and the Expulsion of the Xoors.
a. Moo&isH Kingdoms.
755. 'Abd er'Rahm4n establishes the independent caliphate
of Cordova.
912-960. Under 'Abd er-Rahmsln III. the caliphate of Cordova
attains the height of its power.
1031. Caliphate of Cordova broken up into several parts under
separate dynasties.
1087-92. The Almoravides from Africa conquer the whole of
Moorish Spain.
1108. Defeat of the Christians at Udes.
1 146-56. The fanatical sect of the Almohades, from Africa, replace
the Almoravides.
1195. Moors defeat Alfonso VIII. of CastUe at Alarcos.
Baedskkb^s Spain, c
xxxiv CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE.
1212. Moors defeated \>y Alfonso YIII. at the great battle of
Las NaA.a8 de Tolosa.
1236-61. Cordova, Mnrcia, Seville, Jerez, Cadiz, etc., conquered
by Ferdinand III. Moorish power in Spain now confined
to the kingdom of Granada.
1492. Granada taken by Ferdinand and Isabella, and an end
put to the Moorish domination in Spain.
b. The Chbistian Kingdoms.
739-757(?). Alfonso I. of Asturias unites Galicia and Cantabria with
his kingdom.
778. Charlemagne invades Spain. Battle of Roncesvalles.
801. Barcelona recovered from the Moors by Louis of France.
ca. 880. Navarre, under Garcias Ifiiguez, becomes independent.
910. Asturias divided into the kingdoms of Galicia, Asturias,
and Leon, which become re-united under Fruelall. (924).
931-960. Ramiro 11., King of Leon, wars successfully with the
Moors.
1026 (?). Birth of the Cid, Rodrigo Diz de Bivar.
1037. Ferdinand I. unites Leon and Castile.
1072-1109. Alfonso VI. of Castile assumes the title of Emperor of
Spain. Capture of Toledo (1086) and Valencia (by the
Cid ; 1094). Death of the Cid (1099).
1189. First Cortes meet at Burgos.
1212. Battle of Las Navas de Tolosa.
1230. Final union of Castile and Leon under Ferdinand III.
1262-84. Alfonso X. Promulgation of the 8ieU Partidas,
1340. Battle of the Salado.
1360-69. Pedro the Cruel of Castile, aided by the Black Prince,
defeats his brother Henry of Trastamara at Najera (1367).
1469. Marriage of Ferdinand and Isabella.
1479. Union of Castile and Aragon.
m. From the TJnion of Oastile and Aragon to the War of the
Spanish Buecession.
1480-84. Inquisition established in Castile and Aragon.
1492. Granada captured, and the Moorish dominion in Spain
ended.
1492. Discovery of America.
1601-2. Moors expelled from Castile and Granada.
1604. Conquest of Naples and Sicily.
1616-56. Charles I. (Emp. Charles V.), son of Philip of Austria
and the Infanta Joanna.
1619-21. Conquest of Mexico.
1520. Comunero Rebellion (p. 63).
1525. Battle of Pavia. Capture of Francis I,
CHKONOLOGICAL TABLE. xxxt
163141. Conquest of Peru and CMli.
1535. Capture of Tunis.
1556. Abdication of Charles V. (d. 1558).
1556-98. Philip II. The Spanish monarchy attains its greatest
extent.
1568. Insurrection in the Netherlands.
1568-70. First expulsion of the Moriscoes.
1571. Battle of Lepanto.
1580. Occupation of Portugal.
1588. Destruction of the Spanish Armada.
1598-1621. Philip III. Beginning of the decline of Spain.
1609. Final expulsion of the Moriscoes.
1616. Death of Cervantes de Saavedra (b. 1547).
1621-65. Philip IV.
1640. Loss of Portugal. Insurrection in Catalonia.
1648. Independence of the Netherlands recognized.
1659. Peace of the Pyrenees.
1665-1700. Charles II.
1668. Peace of Aix-la-Chapelle.
1678. Peace of Nymwegen.
1688-97. War with France.
1697. Peace of Ryswyck.
1700. Death of Charles II., the last of the Austrian (Hapsburg)
dynasty.
lY. Spain and«r the Bourbon*.
1701-46. Philip V.
1701-14. War of the Spanish Succession between Philip and Arch-
duke Charles of Austria.
1704. Gibraltar taken by the British.
1713. Salic Law introduced.
1715. Peace of Utrecht.
1746-59. Ferdinand VI.
1759-88. Charles III.
1767, Expulsion of the Jesuits.
1779-83. Great Siege of Gibraltar.
1788-1808. Charles IV.
1792-95. War with France.
1796. War in alliance with France against Great Britain.
1797. Spanish fleet defeated at Cape St. Vincent.
1802. Peace of Amiens.
1805. War with England. Battle of Trafalgar.
1808. French enter Spain. Charles IV. abdicates. Ferdi-
nand VII., his son, renounces his rights in favour of
Napoleon. Joseph Bonaparte declared king. Rising of
Spain against the French.
xxxvl CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE.
1808-14. Peninsular War. Battles of Corunna (1809), Talavera
(1809), Albuera (1811), Salamanca (1812), and Vitoria
(1813). Sieges of Saragossa (1808 and 1809), Gerona
(1809), Cadiz (1810-12), Badajoz (1811 and 1812),
Valencia (1812), and Cludad Rodrigo (1812).
1812. Constitution of Cadiz. Suppression of the Inquisition.
1814. Expulsion of the French and end of the War of Libera-
tion. Ferdinand YII. is restored, but abolishes the con-
stitution and re-establishes the Inquisition.
1818-19. Chili and Columbia declare their independence.
1819. Florida sold to the United States.
1820-23. Revolution. New Constitution. Civil war.
1823. The French intervene and overrun Spain. The Cortes
take Ferdinand to Cadiz, but are compelled to dissolve
and to liberate the king (Sept. 28th). Period of reac-
tionary rule.
1824-25. Peru and Mexico become independent
1830. Birth of Isabella II. Abolition of the Salic Law.
1833. Death of Ferdinand VII.
1833-40. Regency of the Queen-Mother Maria Christina.
1834-39. First Carlist War, in favour of Don Carlos, brother of
Ferdinand VII.
1837. Revised Constitution promulgated.
1841-43. Espartero regent.
1843. Isabella II. declared of age and assumes the reins of
government.
1845. Revision of Constitution of 1837.
1854. Constitution of 1837 restored.
1859-60. War with Morocco,
1865-66. War with Chili.
1868. Revolution and expulsion of Isabella.
1868-70. Provisional Government (Serrano).
1870. Amadous, son of Victor Emmanuel of Italy, elected King
of Spain.
1873. Amadeus abdicates. Republic proclaimed (Castellar,
Serrano).
1872-76. Second Carlist War.
1874-85. Alfonso XIX., son of Isabella II., reigns.
1885. Accession of Alfonso XIII., under the regency of his
mother Christina, Archduchess of Austria.
1895-98. Insurrection^in Cuba.
XXXTll
Zn. Bibliography.
The following is a small selection of easily accessible books on
subjects of interest to the tourist in Spain. Other works of local
Talne are mentioned throughont the Handbook.
Works on Art. Some Aecoant uf Gothic Architecture in Spain, by
Q. E. Street (Murray; 1866), with numerous -illustrations and plans. —
Annals of the Artists of Spain, by Sir William Stirling Maxwell (new
edition, 1891). — Spanish and French Painting, by O. W. Smith (London,
1884). — French and Spanish Painter? , by /. Stothert (London, 1876). —
The Early Portuguese School of Painting, by Sir J. G. Robinton (London,
1866). — The Industrial Arts of Spain, br Juan F. RicMo (London, 1879). —
La Peinture Espagnole, by P. Lefori (1893). — Baudenkmaler in Spanien
und Portugal , by C. Uhde (Berlin , 1889-92). — Die Baukunst Spaniens,
by M. Jtmgh&ndel (Dresden, 1889-98). — Espana, sus raonumentos y artes, by
/. Quadrado^ M. Murgvia. etc. (Barcelona, 1885-^-8). — Die Baukunst der
Renaissance in Portugal, by A. Haupt (Frankfurt-on-the-Xain, 1890-96). —
Geschichte der Baukunst in Spanien, by /. Caveda (Stuttgart, 1868). —
Monumentos de Portugal, by Vilhena Barbeua (Lisbon, 1886). —The Mon-
umentos Arquitectonicos de Espana is a huge illustrated work in course of
publication by the Spanish Government.
Hifliorical Works. Among the leading Spanish historians are Mariana,
^ajfangos^ Orlis^ and Lafuente. A Hittoria Qenerai is now in course ot
publication by the Spanish Academy of Histbry.
English' readers will not fo^et the works of Dunham^ Preecott^ Robert-
son, and Waehinfft(m Irving. Short and useful English works are the
History of Spain to the Death of Ferdinand the Catholic, by UUek Ralph
Burke (3 vols.- London, 1896); Spain, by /. A. Marrison (Boston, 1881);
The Story of Spain, by E. E. and Suean Sale (1886); The Story of the
Moors in Spain, by Stanley Lane-Poole (1886); and The Christian Recovery
of Spain, by B, E. Watt* (1894; these three in 'The Story of the Nations'
series). The ^Geschichte Spanient', by O. JHereU (Berlin, 1884-96), is a recent
German work.
Works on Literature. Besides the large works of Ticknory BouUrwek,
and Sismondi (^Literature of Southern Europe' ; Eng^ by Roscoe), the trav-
eller may consult the well-written compendium of ff. Butler Clarke (^Spanish
Literature"; London, 1883).
Works of Description and Travel. Spain, by Rev. Wentuorth Wa>tier
(London, 1882). — Spain and Morocco, by Henry T. .Pine* (New York, 1891).
— Untrodden Spain, Among the Spanish People, both by ffugh Jamet Ron
(London, 1876 and 1877). — The Bible in Spain, by George Borrow (London,
5th ed., 1894). — The Zineali : an Account of the Gipsies of Spain , by
Qeorge Borrow (new ed., 1888). — Spain, by ff. Willie JJoarfey (London, 1876).
— Spanish Vistas, by George Pareons Laihrop (New York, 1883). — Spanish
Cities, by C. A. Stoddard OTew York, 1892). - Cosas de Espana, by Mrt.
W. Put Byrne (London, 1866). — The Land of the Castanet, by ff. C.
Chatfield-Taylor (Chicago, 1896). — Glimpses of Spain, by S. T. WaUie
(Baltimore, 1896; vol. 3 of Works). — Sketches Awheel in Fin de Sifecle
Iberia, by F. B. and W. H. Workman (London, 1897), a record of a bicycling
tour. — In Northern Spain, by Dr. Hane Oadow (London, 1897). — Voyage
en Espagne, by Thiophile Oautier (1881). — Aus dem heutigen Spanien
und Portugal, by 2r. Pasearge (Leipsic. 1884). — Bin Winter in Spanien,
by F. W. Haekldnder (Stuttgart, 1866). — Die Halbinsel der Pyrenaen,
by M. Willkomm (Leipsic, 1866). — Wanderungen durch die nordostlichen
und centralen Provinzen Spaniens, by M. Willkomm (Leipsic, 1862). —
Spagna, by Edmondo de Amide (Florence, 1878). — The sportsman and
naturalist should consult Wild Spain, an admirable work by A. Chapman
and FT. ST. Buck (London, 1888).
xxxvlU
Glossary of Spanisli Terms nsed in the Handbook.
Ae^quia^ irrigation channel.
Ajimez Window (Arab, themtfjeh)^
if oorish arched window subdivided
by colon nettes.
Alameda, public promenade.
AlcdzoTy Alcazdba, Moorish tower or
castle.
Almindr (Arab, al^mindr , tower,
column), minaret.
Arrabdl (Arab, ar-rdbad)^ suburb.
Arroba. a Spanish and Portuguese
weight containing 25 libras or
pounds.
ArtesotMdo (from arteson, a trough),
coffered or cassetted ceiling (used
mainly of the Moorish honeycomb
ceilings).
Airil, lectern, reading-desk.
Attdieneia, court of appeal, supreme
court.
Ayuntamiento, town-council.
Azotia, roof-terrace, flat roof.
AzuUJot (Arab, az-zuleidja^ small
stones, mosaic), glazed tile.
Barrio, suburb.
Capilla Mayor, chancel, chapel con-
taining the high-altar.
Capitd/n General, governor of one of
the 14 military districts of Spain.
Ceua de ApuntanUento, town-hall.
Casa Consiitorial, town-hall.
Cementerio (Port. Cemiterio), cemetery.
Cimbdrio, dome or lantern over the
crossing of a church.
ClausU'O, cloisters.
Colegiata, collegiate church.
Colegio, college, common table at a
university.
Coro, choir (usually in the middle
of the nave).
Cuartel (Port, quartet), barracks.
Cuttddia, monstrance, pyx (box in
which the Host is kept and ex-
hibited).
J)ip%^ci&n Provincial, provincial legis-
lature. .
Etnpalme (Port. Entroncam&nio), rail-
way junction.
Ermita (Port, ermida), small rural
church, pilgrimage-chapel.
Estaddn (Port, ettagdo), station.
Esto/ado, painting and gilding of
sculpture in imitation of the actual
material. or *stuff' (estofa),
Facistdl, chorister's desk.
F4ria (Port, feira), annual fair.
Olorieta, round space, rondel.
Oobernaddr Civil, civil governor of a
province.
Grotesque Style, see p. lii.
Herrera Style, see p. xliv.
Huerta, fertile tilled land resembling
a garden.
Legua, Spanish league (about 4 Engl.
miles).
Lonja, exchange.
Afajo, Maja, members of the lower
class in their gala attire (old-
fashioned expression).
Mezquita {Ax&\i. metdjid), mosque.
MihrdJb, prayer-niche in a mosqne.
Miraddr, roof-terrace, balcony.
Mudijar Style, see p. xliv.
Nadmiento, source.
Oracidn, Angelus, bell for the Ave
Maria.
Palaeio Episcopal (Obispal) or Arzobis-
pal, bishop's or archbishop''s palace.
Parrdquia, parish-church.
Pasio, public promenade.
Patio (Port, pateo), court.
Plateresque Style, see p. 1.
Presidio, penitentiary.
Ptterta del Perddn ('door of pardon")
is the name of the main door of
several cathedrals, because its
passage ensured absolution.
Puerto, mountain-pass, harbour.
Quinta, park (villa in the Roman
sense).'
Quintal, hundredweight (4 arrobas).
Rambla (Arab, ramla, sandy place),
river-bed, dry except during the
rainy season.
Reja, screen, railing, parclose.
Respaldos, outer side-walls of a choir
(coro).
Retc^lo (Port, retabulo), reredos.
Ria, submarine mouth of a river,
fjord.
Romeria, pilgrimage, church-fair.
Seo (Port. Si; from Lat. sedes, a seat),
cathedral.
Sierra (VortSerra; *saw'), mountain
chains
Silleria, choir-stalls.
Tapia (Port, tdipa), Moorish wall,
made of earth.
Trascovo, outside of end- wall (back)
of choir (coro).
Vega (Arab. toaWa), see Huerta.
Venta, Ventorillo, tavern (Ital. osteria),
Zaguan (Arab, sahn), vestibule.
Zarzuela, see p. xxyi.
Historical Sketch of Spuiish Art.
By Professor Carl Justi,
A visit to Spain will ensure the lover of art at least one thing ^-
a new leaf in the albom of his experienees. A peninsula at the far
end of Enrope, protected by stormy seas and a precipitous range of
monntains ; a history that has no analogy with that of any other oc-
cidental nation ; a people of strong individuality and still stronger
self-appreciation j always antagonistic to what is foreign and con-
vinced of its own supc^ority; a literature that includes the most
original of modem books : — elements such as these cannot but
arouse our curiosity as to the achievements of Spain in the technical,
pictorial, and plastic arts.
Those who pick their way for the first time through the laby-
rinthine streets of an old Spanish town may find it difficult to detect
traces of a genuine Spanish art, and will be inclined to ask what is
the Spanish style, and whither and to what century are we to look for
the national schools of Spain. The monuments before us, numerous
as they are, remain dumb to questions such as these. Sometimes it
would almost seem as if all the schools of the rest of Europe had
given each other a rendezvous in Spain at the expense of the Spanish
purse. The ancient prelates and grandees, the magistrates and guilds
present themselves as patrons of art of the most varied and im-
partial tastes, but they appear to have shown their enthusiasm, as
the Orientals do their delight in dancing, merely by looking on.
The Bomanesque and Gothic cathedrals seem the direct outcome
of French medievalism ; the tombs and retablos of the 14-1 5th cent,
are full of reminiscences of Tuscany and Flanders ; the Renaissance
in Spain suggests a transplanted, luxuriant, and overgrown Italian
garden. The cinquecento style is there reproduced with the most
scrupuloas conscientiousness ; Raphael and Michael Angelo were re-
vered as demigods ; Spanish artists did their best to Italianize them-
selves in the studios of Roman and Florentine masters ; even the
Venetians were by no means without their imitators. Finally came
the Italian naturalistic movement ; but Spanish artists could imitate
this only by abandoning imitation and by painting what lay before
their eyes — vi%. Spanidi nature ; and thus it was the Italians v?ho
showed the Spaniards how to bo 'natural' for the first and last time.
To this naturalistic impulse we owe Velazquez, Zurbaran, and Murillo.
The traveller who is already familiar with France, Flanders, an^
xl SPANISH ART.
Italy is, therefore, in the most favourable position to enjoy an art-tonr
in Spain. His sensations will often be compaiable to those of an
enthusiastic collector, who believes he possesses a complete set of
his favourite master's works and suddenly comes upon a forgotten
corner, where he discovers, amid many copies and pasticcios, a
number of hitherto unknown originals. But this analogy is not
entirely satisfactory.
Travellers who have never visited the Orient will discover in
Spain an entirely novel field, and many will probably find that, amid
all their Iberian experiences, their interest is most powerfully excited
by what the Spaniards have left intact of the creations of their an-
cient conquerors. In Spain the art of the Moors and Arabs may be
traced firom Its first dependent steps to Its highest stage of refine-
ment, and its monuments may be more easily studied and eqjoyed
there than anywhere else.
All those imported art-methods, whether introduced by the for-
eigner himself or by the Spaniard schooled in foreign parts, naturally
awakened imitation. Each new phenomenon called into existence
some kind of school, the style of which showed some more or less
distinct trait that might be called Spanish. There is no lack of in-
teresting creations on which an individual character has been im-
pressed by the stamp of a national spirit. In most cases, however,
this Spanish impress is seen rather in sentiment and temperament
than in any specifically artistic element. The treatment is more
sketchy, the taste less fine, the forms more empty. The feebleness
of the forms is, however, compensated by an air of earnest truth-
fulness, a strong and genuine pathos. Along with this goes a
tendency to unbridled fantasy, to exaggeration approaching cari-
cature, to a heaping up of parts, to astounding combinations of the
Gothic and the Moorish, the mediaeval and the modem.
Acclimated styles of this kind seldom, however, have any long
continuance. A iiew phenomenon in the meantime appears in
foreign parts to arouse once more the tendency to imitate; a new
wave obliterates all traces of the old. That which had scarce taken
root disappears at once and without resistance. Spanish art is
wanting in continuity of development } its changes are invariably
stimulated from without.
It would carry us too far to attempt to explain this lack of
initiative and creative power by racial qualities, by political history,
or by the ancient social canker of contempt for the worker with his
hands. Similar phenomena are seen to this day among the nations
that lie at a distance from the main focus of European civilization ;
they show the same zeal to 'keep up with the procession' by a
prompt adoption of new methods and inventions, and to keep step,
at least ostensibly, with their more favourably situated sisters.
SPANISH ART. xll
a. Arohiteoture.
These observations seem to the visitor to Spain nowhere so
pertinent as in the domain of architecture. ^The singularity is, that,
though endowed with the love of architecture, and an intense desire
to possesss its products, nature seems to have denied to the Spaniard
the inventive faculty necessary to enable him to supply himself
with the productions so indispensable to his intellectual nature'
(Ferguuon),
The extant ruins give a very inadequate idea of the wealth of
public buildings of all kinds that covered Spain in the days of the
Boman Snpire. M£rid<L, the military colony founded by Augustus
and afterwards the capital of Lusltania, is still richer in remains
than any other spot Its great bridge (once of 81 arches), its two
aqueducts, the theatre, the amphitheatre, the naumachia and circus,
the temple of Mars (now a church), the triumphal arch, the forum,
the therms, the villas, and the camps still afford a very fair picture
of what went to compose a great town in the days of Trajan, Hadrian,
and Marcus Aurelius. At Santiponee (Italica), Tarragona^ and
Sagunto nothing is to be found but shapeless masses of concrete
walls. The most imposing single Roman monument in the peninsula
is the aqueduct of Stgovia,
Numerous elaborately fitted up churches were erected in the
Viiigofhie Period (414-711), but the small basilica at Bano8, at-
tributed by an inscription to King Recceswind (661), is, perhaps,
the only one of these now intact. The arcades show a tendency to
the horseshoe form ; the apse or sanctuary is rectangular. Some
idea of the decorative style of this period is afforded also by the
capitals of columns and other architectural fragments in the mosque
of Ccfdova, at Toledo, at Mirida, and elsewhere. Part of the city
walls of Toledo dates from the Yisigothic period.
After their conquest by the Moors the vanquished Goths estab-
lished a new Christian kingdom among the mountain-fastnesses of
Asturiat, which formed the basis for the gradual recovery of the
peninsula. Here pilgrimages may be made to the cavern of Cova-
ionga^ the tomb of Pelayo, and to the churches of San Miguel de
Lino and Santa Maria de Naranco, near Oviedo. Both of tliese
churches are atcribed to Ramiro 1. (843-50), and the latter was
probably once his palace. Of a similar date and style are Santa Cristlna
de Lena, and San Pedro and San Pablo at Barcelona.
Somanasque Style. The Pyrenees form no ethnographical
harrier } one and the same Iberian race occupies Gascony, Navarre,
and the Basque Provinces. Hence it is easy to understand why the
new architecture of Spain was closely akin to that of France in
general and Aquitaine in particular. The influence of the great
orders of Gluny and Giteaux, and of the numerous prelates whom
they famished to Spain, tended in the same direction.
xlli Architecture. SPANISH ART. Romarieaque 8tyU,
Most of the ohuTches of the ll-12th cent, were of moderate size.
Their type was that of the basilica with nave and aisles, a well-maiked
transept, a triapsidal termination , and a lantern or dome over the
crossing. The roof was at first flat , but afterwards the nave was
covered with barrel-vaulting and the aisles with quadrant or semi-
barrel vauMnof. The most important monument of the early Ro-
manesque period is the church of Santiago de Compostela^ a some-
what simplified copy of St. Semin at Toulouse. The Auvergne
arrangement of radiating chapels was also reproduced here for the
first time. San Isldoro at Leon, San Millan and other churches at
Segovia , San Vicente and San Pedro at Avila, Santa Maria and
Santiago at Corurma are additional examples of the same style.
The custom of removing the choir from the sanctuary to the
nave began at an early date, and at the close of the middle ages it
had become the regular practice. One consequence was that the E.
part of the church lost its importance and lagged in development.
As the choir (coro) was enclosed on three sides by high walls,
the unity of the interior of the church was wholly destroyed. De-
corated within and without with the most elaborate sculpturing,
these choirs furnish us with the richest specimens of the work of
the ecclesiastical artist ; but they form as it were a church within
a church and reduce the latter to the functions of a hall of shelter.
The Spanish cathedrals, as compared with those of France and
England, have had the inestimable good fortune of seeing their
mediaeval contents and stamp preserved from the destruction of a
later age, and indeed they are often less changed than those of
Italy. The cathedrals are the true museums of Spain.
In the 12th cent, the Cistercian order introduced the Burgund-
ian type of church, the noble and severe forms of which contained
the elements of the Pointed or OotMe Style. Examples of this are
the churches of Venula (ca. 1146) and of Las Huelgas, near Burgos.
Groining gradually supplants waggon or barrel vaulting. Large
churches, such as those at Salamanca, Tarragona, Lirida, and
Tudela, though begun in the Romanesque period, assume an early-
Gothic character before their building is completed. These churches
are the first edifices in which the Spanish spirit has expressed
itself architecturally, and their characteristics are noble simplicity,
solidity of construction, clearness and precision of form, delicapy of
ornamentation, and proportions that make an impression of solemn-
ity and earnestness. Especial value was attached to the indis-
pensable Cimborio (over the crossing), which at Zamora, Toro, and
Salamanca assumed the form of a lofty dome, with a drum pierced
by windows. The external colonnades, extending from the W. front
along the N. and S. sides, form a peculiar feature ; examples of
this may be seen at Segovia, where a Templar church has also been
preserved.
Even before the completion of these early -Gothic buildings
OoihieStyU. SPANISH ART. Arehitecture. xliii
the developed Freneh cathedral style of the 13th oent. was intro-
duoed into Spain, prohably hy French architects. It is first seen in
the large cathedrals of Burgos (1221) and Toledo (1227), and a little
later in that of Leon, Scarcely a trace of a native element is visible
in these stractnres. The device of chapels radiating from the apse
is nowhere so popular as in Spain. The interior of Avila Cathe'
dralj with its doable ambulatory, is especially graceful. The richer
style of the 14th cent, is marked by the use of carved flowers
in its ornamentation, by its finely articulated profiles, and by its
complicated tracery. The final artistic development took place in
the 15-16th cent., partly under German and Flemish Influence.
Johann of Cologne and his son Simon were the dominant architects
in the diocese of Burgos ; and the cathedral of Burgos then received
its poetic silhouette by the addition of the caps to its towers, the
cimborio, and the chapel of the Gondestabile. The 15th cent,
opened with the foundation of Serrille Cathedral^ which covers a larger
area than any other Christian church except St. Peter's at Rome.
This cathedral, which is conterminous with the old mosque, is, per-
haps, the work of Germans. All the buildings of the time of the
'Catholic Kings' are distinguished by their uniformity of style and
their romantic magulAcence. Inscriptions are used after the Arab
fashion as ornamental motives. Some of the finest Gothic buildings
in Spain (as at Salamanca in 1513 and at Segovia in 1523) were
begun and finished after the Renaissance had already made itself felt.
In Catalonia the evolution of the interior of the churches took
a course of its own. In the effort after spaciousness the naves
were gradually made wider and wider, until the aisles disappeared
and were represented merely by a series of separate chapels, as in
the churches of Anjou. Good examples of these aisleless churches
are the Cathedral, Santa Maria del Mar, and Santa Maria del Pino
at Barcelona, the cathedral of Palma (Majorca), and the cathedral
of Oerona.
The plan of imitating the large windows of the cathedrals of
N. France was soon found to be unsuitable for the sun-burnt land
of Spain ; hence the windows were first walled up (as at Avila) and
afterwards replaced by very low or very narrow ones. Small churches
of a later date, in which the idea of a Spanish temple finds its full
expression, are almost windowless. Their exterior is simple and
hare like the buildings of the Orient. Within, a *dim religious light'
is shed upon the altar and its immediate environment, while the
whole oi the apsidal ending is shut off by the sculptured ^retablo',
reaching to the roof.
When the Arabs came to Spain, they possessed no architecture
properly so called. As a race, they were as deficient as the Span-
lards in constructive ingenuity ; their whole strength lay in their
ornamentation. The Mosque of Cordova, the oldest and largest
xliv ArchiUeture. SPANISH ART. MoorUh Style.
Moorish monument in Spain, is a many-columned and originally
flat-roofed structure, the components of which were collected from
other buildings, while its plastic and mosaic ornamentation was
entrusted to artists from Byzantium. From this Byzantine begin-
ning was evolved that characteristic grammar of form used to the
present day in all Mohammedan countries and apparent in all
the other Moobjsh Monumbnts of Spain. These monuments, of
world-wide celebrity, are various in kind, including mosques and
synagogues, royal castles, baths, towers, and city-gates. The most
striking edifice is, perhaps, El Gristo de la Luz in Toledo ^ the mosque
in which Alfonso YI. caused the first mass to be read after his
capture of the city in 1085, a bold and brilliant cabinet-piece of
Arab construction. Other specimens are the Casa de Mesa and the
Taller del Moro in the same city, the Aljaferia at Sarctgossa. The
monumental creations of the last period of the Moorish dominion
in Seville exist only in fragments or in metamorphosis. Of the
mosque all that remains is the minaret (La Giralda; 1196) and theN.
portal of the Court of Oranges. The Alcazar was renewed by Pedro
the Gruel in the 14th cent., and again in the 16th by the Italian
architects of Charles Y'. After the conquest of Seville (1248) Ibn
al-Ahmar made Oranada the capital of the last Moorish kingdom
in Spain, and to this fragmentary relic of the Arab power, which
clung to the soil for 250 years more, Spain owes the Alhambra,
that gem of the delicate fancy of the Moor, that realised vision of
the Arabian Nights.
Even after the conquest of Granada the same style was carried
on by the Moresco subjects of the Christian rulers^ and its forms
were applied to the buildings of the new kingdom. The Spaniards
name this blending of Moorish and Christian art the Estilo Mud^ab.
It is not, however, a new style or even a new modification of a
style ; it is simply an external application of somewhat incongruous
elements to any kind of structure. The Arab taste has, however,
exercised a strong influence upon purely Gothic or Renaissance
creations. The most interesting examples of this Mudejar style are
the two synagogues at Toledo, Santa Maria la Blanca of the 12th
cent, and El Transito of the 14th. At Seville the palaces of the
Marquis of Tarifa (Casa de Pilatos) and the Duke of Alba (Casa de
las Duefias) show Moorish, mixed with Gothic and plateresque,
elements.
The Benaissance Style will be discussed under the heading
of Sculpture. At first it showed itself only in the ornamental parts
of buildings. The use of Corinthian columns and other classical
features in Gothic churches led architects like Diego db Silob and
YALUELyiiiA to the erection of much-admired buildings, such as
San Salvador at Vbeda and the cathedrals of Oranada, Maloffa.,
\ Jaen. This golden age with its. saturnalia of ornamentation was
wed by the CiNauBCENTo or Heb,resa Style, which is marked
Romme$que 8tyU. SPANISH ART. Sculpture, xiv
by severity and sobriety, shans all decoration, and seeks its effects
simply by size and proportions. It takes its name from the creator
of its typical monument , the Eteorial. The Baboqitb Sttlb is
worthily represested by the Royal Palace of the BourbofUy which
dominates the view of Madrid as seen from the N.
b. Bcvlptiire.
The scnlptare of Spain is the branch of national art least known
beyond the bounds of the country. Its beginnings must be sought
in the early Christian period. Built into the walls of the presbytery
of the church of San Fellu at Oerona are four early- Ohristian sarco-
phagi and two Roman ones. But then follows, as in Italy, a long
night of which nothing is known. There are few sculptures left that
can, on any serioxis grounds, be referred to the Vislgothio period ;
and specimens shown here and there as Yisigothio have no claim
whatever to the epithet. The only important works of art of that
period are the golden crowns of Guarrazar, preserved at the Mttst^e
de Gluny in ParU and in the Archeological Museum of Madrid,
Those who take an interest in the relics of the first centuries of
the Reconquista should make a pilgrimage to Asturias and study the
contents of the Gamara Santa at Oviedo (from which a few objects
have been brought to the Madrid Archsological Museum), and they
should also examine the ivory crucifix of the Old at Salamanca and
the reliquary of St. Millan in the Rioja (1035).
The existence of works in stone can hardly be proved before
the 11th cent., and the barbaric mason's work on portals, fonts,
and tombs hardly allows us to speak of an art of sculpture before
the second half of the 12th century. Even then it is long before
the Canteros and EnlaUadores reach anything but a very low level.
It may be assumed that the better products of the 13-1 4th cent,
are almost all of Fbbnch or Italian Obioin, even when (as is
often the case) no foreign names are mentioned in connection with
them. And this assumption is supported by the practical Identity
of these sculptures with those of countries in which they are the
outcome of a continuous history, by the want of a similar continuity
in Spain, and by the inferior level of the general development,
above which only a few isolated instances of better work emerge.
The first attempts in sculpture in stone are found in the N.W. and
in the district of the Pyrenees, as in San Salvador de Loire in JVa-
wifte, in San Pedro in Huesea (lunettes), at Ripoll (portada), and in
San Pablo del Gampo at Barcelona. Quaint reliefs are immured in
the facade of San Isidore at Leon and on the S. side of the cathedral
of Santiago, The figures of the 12th cent, are generally mere
poppets, even those on the royal monument at Najeraj erected by
Sancho in. (1157) in honour of Dona Bianca. Barcelona was a
wealthy city, dominating the commerce of the Mediterranean ; but
the sarcophagus of St. Eulalia (1327), with itsPisan reminiscence
xlTl Seulptttre. SPANISH ART. 14th and i6ih CerU.,
shows how easily its art-cravings were satisfied at the beginniDg
of the 14th century.
One of the most far-reaching influences from the N.E. was that
of the GssAT EocLBSiASTiCAL Obders, especially that of Clunt. It,
therefore, need not astonish us, if we find works of great excellence
standing, as it were miraculously and without intermediary, along-
side the barbarous attempts just noted. The Puerta de la Gloria of
Santiago de Composiela is undoubtedly as foreign in origin as the
church itself; the name of the architect is recorded as Ma^tre
Mateo (d. after 1188). The admirable terracotta statuettes in the
S. portal of S. Yicente at Avila belong to the 13th cent., to judge
from the identity of their style with that of the rich stone aica In
the interior of the church. This area is the finest work of its kind.
The imagination of the Romanesque stone-cutters may be admired
in the cloisters and churches of the 12-13th centuries. It fairly
ran riot in the capitals of the columns, where Biblical scenes and
purely decorative motives alternate with beast-fables, fantastic
monsters, and scenes from human life (Tarragona^ LSrida^ Bipoll,
Elne, San Cugat near Barcelona).
The cathedral of Tarragona furnishes a unique opportunity for
an almost complete survey of Spanish art-styles from the early-
Christian days (sarcophagus in the facade) down to the baroque
period. Even the Moorish mihrab (?) is represented. The door to
the cloisters is, perhaps, the most notable pre-Gothio work in marble
in the province.
Though it is true that Romanesque or even quite rude figures
are found in monuments of a pronounced Gothic style as late as the
14th cent., it is none the less true that the Noeth F&bnch Stylb
had made its mark here and there in the second half of the 13th
century. Its entire development may be followed from that period
onwards, often in examples of undeniable excellence. — Now, the
outworn forms of a tradition of a thousand years were at last shaken
off; now, a modem style arose for the first time based upon a
genuinely creative activity and inspired by models taken from life ;
and now, for the first time, it is possible to hope for real artistic
delight.
The cloisters and portals of the cathedral of Burgos form an admir-
able museum of French Gothic art, from the still somewhat stiff
and self-conscious style of the 13th cent. (Apostles' Door) down to
the graceful ease of the 14th century. The exact dates are, however,
unknown. Both dates and stone-cutters' names are known in the
case of Maestre Bartolom^s Apostles (1278) at the main door of the
cathedral of Tarragona, which Caatayls^ a century later (1375),
could complete only by clumsy imitations. They are crude and stiff
as columns in their attitude, but are not destitute of new elements
both in features and drapery. Those in the W. portal of S. Vicente
dit AviUt are mummy-like caricatures; even tbose on the external
Goihk style. SPANISH ART.; Sculpture, xlvtl
wall of the ohoir of Toledo Cathedral are comparatively lougk and
jejune.
This French style also prevailed in Navarre (OUte, San^&taa,
EsteUa). The Glanstro of Pampekma it little inferior to that of
Bnrgos. The style spread over the vrhole peninsula. It is seen at
onee in the eathedrals of Basque Viioria and of JL«on and V<Ueneia
(N. portal).
The best of the ideal works are the statues and statuettes of the
Madonna. St. Ferdinand's ivory Yirgen de las Batallas at Seville is,
perhaps, the earliest work of ihia kind brought to Spain. Among
these Madonnas are works full of dignity and sweetness, of genuine
beauty and plastic conception. They are to be seen over the altars
of chapels, in gateways, or in large rotables, as at Tortosa and Palma
(behind the modern altar). The cathedral at PUueneia and many
other churcbes eon tain several images of the Yirgin. Good examples
are found at Toledo, Siguema, Oandia, and Sagunto. Gems among
smaller works of art are the reliquary at Seville, known as the Tablas
Alfonsinas (1274), and the silver plating of the high-altar in the
cathedral at Oerona (1348).
Statues on tombs are very numerous, but down to the middle of
the 15th cent, they generally have rude, typical features. The
finest specimen of portrait-sculpture Is the tomb of St. Ferdinand
and Beatrice of Swabla, in the cloisters of Bwgoe. The statue of
Diego de Anaya (d. 1437), in one of the cloister - chapels of the
cathedral at Salamanca, is still quite ideal in its treatment The
monument of Archbp. Lopez de Luna (d. 1382) in the Seo ofSarw
go89a, is a dassieal masterpiece. Leon, Palma, and PtUg are rleh in
similar monuments.
In the last third of the 16th cent, there took place a RBvoLVTioir
IN StyiiB, helped by the now widespread mastery of the technical part
of sculpture. The characteristic features are more emphasized, the
gestures more spontaneous and more individual. Waved lines give
place to broken ones, rounded surfaces to sharp-edged ones. The
realistic tendency is, however, not as yet marred by a loss in in-
tellectual and assthetic content; so far it rather heightens the faculty
of representation.
We now for the first time find genuine portraits, though un-
doubtedly an attempt at portraiture is evident in many earlier
works. For those who are more or less conversant with Spanish
history the tombs of this period afford inexhaustible entertainment.
They present to us with the greatest vitality and distinctness the
men of a time when the activity of the nation was at its highest and
its growth In full development. In the long line of tombs in the
great cathedrals it is often easy to pick out one which, as it were,
fixes and embodies the zenith of the nation's life. At Seville the
first perfect portrait-statue is that of Archbp. Juan de Cervantes
(d. 1463), by Lorenxo. Mercadante de Breiana,
xlviil Sculpture. SPANISH ART. 15th Cent. : Gothic Style.
A selection of the most admirable tombs would alone make a long
list. A few that may be mentioned are those of the learned Bishop
Alohso de Cartagena (d. 1466), by QU de Siloe, in the Chapel of the
Visitation in the cathedral of Burgos; Bernardo Diaz de Fuente
Pelayo (d. 1492), in the Chapel of St. Anne; Charles III. of Navarre
and his wife in Pampeluna; Don Alvaro de Luna, by Pablo Ortiz
(1489), at Toledo; Juan de Grado, at Zamora; Card, de San Ens-
taquio, in Sigiienza; Raymond Lully, by SagrerOy in San Francisco
at Palma. Among the numerous idealized figures may be mentioned
the 13 statues of the Chapter House at Tarragona^ those of the LoAJa
of Palmay and those in the convent-church of Ona.
. In the Mediterranean districts where the Limousin dialect is
spoken, the Influbnob of Italy is stronger than that of France.
After the end of the 14th cent, a style beoame prevalent here, which,
while clearly showing its Pisan origin, has also a distinct local flavour.
The numerous retablos are generally of moderate size and contain
several reliefs enclosed in flat frames of rich Gothic ornamentation.
The insignificant ohurch of San Lorenzo at JUrida possesses three
such retablos; there is a good one at Tarragona.- The alabaster
panels of the trascoro of the cathedral of VaUneia (1466) recall the
works of Ghiberti. The museum of Liirida contains the fragments
of noble works that bear testimony to the flourishing state of this
branch of ait in Catalonia at the close of the middle ages. The
plastic talent of the Aragonese, afterwards so astonishingly illustrated,
here already shows proofs of its existence. Great things were ac-
complished in the creation of idealistic and profoundly sympathetic
forms, which at the same time were completed with the help of the
most naive and individual studies of nature. At the head of their
class stand two works of Pere Johan de Tarragona: the retablo
mayor of the cathedral of Tarragona, with its colossal statues of
the Madonna, St. Thecla, and St. Paul (begun in 1426), and that
of the Seo of Saragoisa, with the Adoration, Transfiguration, and
Ascension.
The Castilian, Andalusian, and Portuguese works of this period
present a strong contrast to these creations, so simple in their ar-
rangement and inspired by such an Italian feeling for form. The dry
and meagre figures, the jejune and often even repellent conception
would be enough to betray the presence of colonies of Nobthbbn
A&TisTS, even if their names were wanting. A classical example is
the Door of the Lions, by Annequfn de Egaa of Brussels, in the
cathedral of Toledo,
The principal works in this genre of sculpture — low-German
in origin but quickly acclimatized — are the huge retablos of the
cathedrals of Toledo (by Enrique de Egos and Pedro Oumiei) and
Seville (by Dancarty They represent a very considerable amount
of creative thought and power of representation, and could not be
overlooked in any satisfactory history of early-Flemish sculpture.
Lat€'Gothie Style. SPANISH ART. Sculpture, xlix
The general effect of these retablos is, howevier, less fortun&te ;
and an examination of their details is fatiguing. The artists have
not divorced themseWes from forms evolved for nse in spaces of more
modest dimensions; the desired amplitade is attained by the mere
multiplication of units. Perhaps the most eminent of the sculptors
who worked at Seville was Juan Fhenandbz Albman, the creator
of the Pieti. His later works show Italian influence. More pleasure
may be obtained from a study of the choir-stalls by Nufro Sanehe%
(1475), whose vein of invention and humour recalls the masters of
Germany. The reliefs and marquetry- work of such sillerfas form
one of the richest pages in the history of carving. Those at Plaseneia^
by Af. Rodrigo AUman, are marked by great daring. The manner
of the low-German school is seldom more characteristically illustrated
than in the works of the Spanish Pedro MUlaUy the sculptor of the.
terracotta statuettes in the two W. portals of Seville and also of the
noble Yixgen del Pilar. He, moreover, furnished the models for the
small figures on the beautiful portal of Santa Paula, which were
executed in the Robbia style by Nieuloio of Pisa, who also made the
curious faience altar in the Alcazar.
The alienation of taste from the geometrical severity of Gothic
art, the predilection for rich and realistic ornamentation , the ex-
tension of the mental horizon, the fermentation produced by the
meeting of so many different styles, and finally the increase in
technical dexterity led at the end of the 16th cent, to the erection
of a group of imposing buildings, which no one can regard with in-
difference. They mirror that mighty outburst of national feeling,
which followed in the train of a series of unparalleled events that
would have fired the imagination of a much more sluggish people.
This group includes the facades of San Pablo and San Gregorio at
ValiadoUdy the cloisters of the latter, the facades of Santa Cruz at
Segovia and of the Episcopal Seminary at Bctezat and the patio of
the Infantado Palace at Cfuadalajara, which resembles the creations
of the ^Manoelino' style in Portugal. Other examples are the retablo
of the Gartuja of Miraflore8^ near Burgos, by Oil de SHoe^ with the
monuments of Juan n. and Isabella de Barcelds, erected by their
daughter Isabella, and the monument of Prince Alfonso ; the monu-
ment of F. de Padilla at Frea de VcU^ now in Burgos Museum ; the
retablo of San Gil at Burgos ; and the trascoro in the cathedral of
PaUnieia.
The flourishing and multiform plastic art of Spain in the 15th
cent was invaded during the last deoade of the century by the innu-
merable forms of the early Italian Renaissance \ and, thanks to a
taste refined by the busy practice of art, the new-comers were hailed
with acclaim. The works thus introduced to Spain were partly by
Italian masters, who either came to the country or executed com-
missions in Italy, and partly by Spanish masters, who learned their
Babpsksb's Spaiq. d
1 Sculpture. SPANISH ART. ISih Century:
art In Italian studios. The commissions were mostly executed for
the Mendozas, Fonsecas, Riberas, Yelascos, and other families,
to which the ecclesiastical princes of Spain belonged. Sculptors
like Felipe Vigami and Berruguete^ architects like Diego de Siloe^
Enrique de Egos, and Alonso CovarHihicu, and goldsmiths like the
Arpkes created the so-called Flatereiqne Style i*, that brilliant ex-
pression of the Spanish spirit in the time of the * Catholic Kings'
and Charles V.
The effect of this style on those who are susceptible to pictorial
charm in architectural and plastic works may almost be described
as dazzling. It must, however, be remembered that the associations
with the word Renaissance might easily lead to mistake. It is not
a ^new birth', for the art affected was in full possession of its life
and creative faculty; it is simply a change of dress. It is not a
'revival of the past', for it is really a new departure. The pla-
teresque style is merely a metamorphosis of the latest and pictorial
phase of Gothic, just as the latter may be in some sense regarded
as a metamorphosis of and substitute for the Alhambraic and Mu-
d^jar styles. The grammar of form in these three styles is as
distinct as possible ; the principle of covering superficial spaces with
the richest, finest, and most fantastic ornamentation is common to all.
It must not be assumed that the figure-sculptures of the new
dispensation were on a distinctly higher plane than their prede-
cessors. The new elements of taste and study (e.g, the classical
style, anatomy) made their way but slowly ; neither in observation
of nature, nor in expression and character, nor in the gift of story-
telling or the power of adaptation to the space at command, and least
of all in the harmony of its spirit with the environment, is the Re-
naissance sculpture entitled to look down on what had gone before
it. Indeed the Renaissance of this period is responsible for the
most baroque aberrations of taste that the art has to offer.
The number of works by the early-Renaissance artists of Italy
that came to Spain is not large. The cathedral at Badajoz contains
a relief of the Madonna in the style of Donatello (also to be seen
elsewhere) and a Venetian brass with a figure in relief of Diego
Suarez de Figueroa, the ambassador. The first and richest work of
the Lombard school in Spain is the chateau of Calahorra^ near
Guadix, built about 1510 by the Marques del Zenete. The Italian
marble-cutters were mainly occupied in the production of imposing
Monumental Tombs. The mural monument of Archbishop Men-
doza in the cathedral of Seville (Capilla dela Antigua) was executed
by Miguel of Florence about 1509, and is probably the quaintest of
all in its figures. By the same artist is the terracotta relief over
the Puerta del Perdon, representing in stormy fashion the Expul-
t Estilo platerescoy so called because of the resemblance of;its delicate
•namentation to silver-plate (plata).
Platertique Style. SPANISH ART. 8etUpi\Afe. li
sion of the Money Changers from the Temple and the Annunciation
(1519). A similar work is the monument of P. Gonzalez de Men«-
doza (d. 1496) in the capilla mayor of the cathedral at ToUdoy with
the Madonna in the lunette. The richest examples of this class, and
indeed of Renaissance sculpture in general, are the two Lombardic
monuments by Oenotte Mcuteri in the University Church of Seville:
that of Pedro Enriquez de Ribera (d. 149^2), by Antonio de ApriUy
and that of his wife Catalina, by Pace Oagini. The altar of the
Capilla de Esealas, in the cathedral, erected by Bait, de Rio in
1539, is also of Genoese workmanship. The statues of the Con-
stable, and his wife at Burgot are mainly admirable for the in-
dustry displayed in the representation of their dress. The cathedral
of JtfKrcia, the tower of which, built by Card. Matthias Lang,
transports us into the time of Pope Julius II., contains a large
relief of the Adoration of the Shepherds; the figure of the Virgin
in the baptistery is later.
There is a whole series of monuments of prime historical interest
in which all the forms and motives of this style are represented :
— medallion-reliefs, statuettes, garlands of fruit, winged lions and
griffins at the comers. These various details were often executed by
specialists of unequal skill under the superintendence of one artist-
ia-chief. Dombnioo Fajtobl!.! of Florence was summoned to
execute the monument of Ferdinand and Isabella in the Capilla
Real at Oranada and that of their only son, Don Juan (d. 1497), in
the church of St. Thomas at Avila, The latter is distinguished by
the purity and beauty of its style. Perhaps by the same hand, and
certainly of the same school, are the Altar of St. Catharine and the
seated figure of Bishop Alfonso Tostado de Madrigal (d. 1465) in
the cathedral of AvUa. These monuments met with such approval
that the executors of Card. Ximenez (d. 1517) decided to employ
the same artist for that statesman's monument in the chapel of the
university at Alcald. On Fancelli's death the execution of this work
was entrusted to Babtolom^ Obdonbz, who resided usually at
Barcelona but undertook this task at Carrara, with the help of Ita-
lians. Ordo&ez died in 1520 at Carrara and left three other un-
finished monuments, which were completed by Italian marmorari
and shipped to Spain. One of these was that of Philip the Hand-
some and Juana la Loca in the Capilla Real at Oranada, Similar
works are the monument of Archbp. Alfonso de Fonseca (d. 1512)
in the Ursuline church at Salamanca (now pulled down), the four
Fonseca monuments at Coea^ and the monument of Francisco Ra-
mirez and Doiia Beatrice in the Concepcion Jer6nima at Madrid,
There are two fine reliefs by OrdoHez, whom Francisco de Holanda
called the ^Eagle of Relief , on the trascoro of the cathedral of Bar^
eelona , which promised to be a Spanish counterpart of the Cap-
pella del Santo in Padua, but unfortunately remained a fragment.
Other'contemporary Lombard masters are authors of the monument
d*
lii Sculpture. SPANISH ART. 16th Century:
of Bishop Albornoz of Avilafd. 1614), in the cathedial of Toledo, of
Bishop Francisco Ruiz (d. 1528), in the church of San Juan de la
Penltencia in the same city, and of the altar with the monuments
of the Ayala family in San Lorenzo at Santiago,
Deoosatite Sculpture was, as might have been expected from
the Oriental bent of the national taste, that branch of the art in which
the new style was adopted with the most ardour and most speedily
practised by native artists. The facades, doorways, and windows of
Gothic buildings were used as fields for the application of Renaissance
ornamentation, the forms of which were at first akin to the beautiful
and Intelligent style of the early Renaissance in Lombardy. The
spring of invention seemed inexhaustible; there are hardly two
buildings decorated on the same system. The college of Santa Cruz
in Valladolid (1480-92) and the hospital of the same name In Toledo
(1504), both by Enrique i>b Egas of Brussels, are the earliest
known monuments of the style. The greatest, however, of the
foreigners who made the Renaissance style at home in Spain was
a Burgundian, Philip Vigabni, surnamed db Borgona (d. 1543).
He received his training as a carver of images in France, and it
was by travelling that he acquired his knowledge of the forms of
the Italian style and his insight into their grace and dignity. He
seems to have made his first appearance in Spain at Burgos^ where
he executed the many-figured reliefs of the Passion on the trascoro,
perhaps the most pregnant work of this period of transition. A
kindred work by an unknown hand is the rotable of the Oonstable^s
Chapel, which charms by its naive realism and the beauty of its
heads. The choir-stalls (1507) seem to be the first example of the
^grotesque' style. In the dome, with its statues, Vigarnf appears in
the capacity of architect. Later he was employed by Card. Ximenez
in the choir of the cathedral of Toledo, and designed the retablo
of the Capilla Real at Oranada, The facade of the lunatic asylum
in the latter city (1536) is in the same style. — The palace of
Charles V. in the Alhanibra, begun in 1526, is a work of the Spa-
niard Pedro Machuca. The ornate S. portal was executed by Niecolb
da Corte of Genoa ; the N. portal exhibits the sober style of Herrera.
The forms of the 15th cent, were quickly superseded by those of
the Orotesqne Style or Estilo Monstrnoso. The works of this style
are characterized by an Inexhaustible fantasy, a rhythmical stream
of movement, a unity of general effect combined with a constant flux
of motives, ebullient vitality, and a whimsical use of details bor-
rowed from natural history. Diego db Silob (d. 1563), the most
honoured architect of the early-Spanish Renaissance, was also one
of its most able decorative artists. The Escala Dorada of Archbp.
Fonseca, in the N. transept of the cathedral of Burgos (1519), the
monument of Bishop Acufia, and the retablo of the chapel of St. Anne
are all by him. His activity, however, found its chief field in Oranada
(1529 et seq.). The transept and the cloister-portals of San Jer6-
Grotesque StyU, SPANISH ART. Sculpture, liil
nimo, the olmrcli of the Gran Oapltan, and some of the doors of the
cathedral were the models for numerous facades and portals (sueh
as that of Santa Ana) to which Granada owes not a little of its pic-
toreaqne physiognomy.
So numerous are the examples of this taste that it is difficult to
make even a small selection of the most excellent. SerHUe is the
richest field of the style. The city-hall (begun by Diego dt Riaifio in
1627) is one of its finest monuments ; every detail of its ornament
and every statue repay inspection. For interiors of importance, such
as the sacristy and the royal chapel in the cathedral, a new scheme
of decoration was devised, in which the main emphasis was laid on the
statuary. In addition to the reliefs in friezes and on the shafts of
pilasters, the soffits of the arches, the spandrels, the half-domes,
and the domes were all covered with statues. In the last case they
were arranged as radiating from the centre. These light and colour-
less rooms, enlivened with a world of fantastic, historical, and sacred
forms, are the triumph of the Spanish enthusiasm for the plastic
art. The Gapilla Real was designed by Martin Oaima in 1641. Its
walls are articulated with massive pilasters, resembling candelabra;
the apse and dome are adorned with coffers and busts. The sacristy
was erected by the same artist after a plan by Riafio. A remarkable
analogy in another domain of art is afforded by the bronze ten-
ebrario with its 16 statuettes. The barrel-vaulting of the sacristy of
the cathedral of Siguenaia is adorned with rosettes and with 300 heads,
no one of which is a repetition of another — probably the 'bravura
piece' of the principle of versatility. The pulpit of the same church
is one of the best of the style in Spain.
In other towns of Andalusia may be mentioned the facade of
Santa Maria at Ubeda, by Valdelviraj with a sacristy in the style of
that of Seyille, and the town-hall of JerS%, by Andris de Ribera,
The N. facade of the transept of the cathedral of Plasencia belongs
to the same class.
In Castile the classic places are Salamanca^ Alcald de Henares^
and Cuenea. Though many of the monumental buildings of ScUa^
manea were destroyed in the War of Liberation, that city still pos-
sesses San Est^an, the Espiritu Santo, the Colegio del Arzobispo,
and the Casa de las Conchas. The gem of the style is the facade of
the university, vrith its medallion-portraits of Ferdinand and Isa-
bella. A curious feature is the correction of the perspective by in-
creasing the scale of tha ornamental details towards the top. Aleald
shows itself the peer of Salamanca in the College of Card. Ximenez,
by Alonao de CovarrUbku. The same artist is responsible for the
archiepiscopal palace at AlcaU and the* chapel of the Reyes Nuevos
and the Alcazar at Toledo, The wooden doors of the Portal of the
Lions at Toledo Cathedral were carved by Diego Copvn Hhe Dutch^
man\ while the bronze outside is by Francisco de Villalpando. Thr
doors and cabinets of the sacristy are by Quillen. More imposing i
11 V Sculpture. SPANISH ART. 16th Century:
conception and delicately fanciful in detail are the works of Xamete
in the cathedral of Cuenca (1646), the carved doors of which may
be described as Flemish pictures in wood. A group of artists were
busy under Juan de Badajoz at Leon (convent of San Marcos) and
Carrion de los Condes. The style was introduced to Santiago through
the Fomecas. Madrid^ also, has a specimen of the style, though
not one of its masterpieces, in the Capilla del Obispo in the church
of San Andres (monument and retablo, 1624-36).
The Inplubncb op Michael Angelo is perceptible even in the
first epoch of the Spanish Renaissance, but in the second half of
the 16th cent, it attained a height elsewhere unknown out of Italy.
His works appealed to the Spanish feeling for the serious, the
dignified, and the deeply iemotional. The name of AIoubo Ber-
rngnete (ca. 1480-1661), thanks to his position at the court of
Charles V. in Valladolid, has become typical for this whole period,
and especially for the Grotesque Style, though that was known in
Spain (1520) at least twelve years before his return. Of his stay
in Italy we know little beyond a casual mention in the letters of
Michael Angelo relating to the Pisan cartoon. Like other wander-
ing artists, however, he seems to have been very susceptible to the
strongest artistic influences of the country he visited. He com-
pleted a St. Jerome by Filippino Lippi ; his paintings show that he
was an admirer of Raphael's grace. Some of his sculptures (in the
church of his native town, Paredes de Nava^ reveal him as a student
of the antique ; his St. Leocadia, now at the little church of £1
Cristo de la Vega at Toledo, is a reproduction of a Muse. In the
bust of Juanelo, the engineer, and in the statue of St. Secundus
(Avila) he appears as a maker of portraits in marble. In the interim
he fell into the most extravagant mannerism, and his statuettes at
San Benito in Valladolid are like the creations of a madman. In all
these works his personality appears to us in faltering outlines. But
his chief work, the alabaster statuettes in the core (Epistle side ;
1648) of the cathedral of Toledo, shows how deeply he had steeped
himself in the spirit of Michael Angelo. His power of inventing
expressive attitudes, arranged according to the principle of contra-
position, marks him as far superior to the monotonous and exhausted
Borgoiia, A similar vein of fertility is shown in the countenances of
the busts with which he adorned the court of the Colegio del Arzo-
bispo at Salamanca. The monument of Archbp. Tavera in the Afuera
Hospital at Toledo was finished after the death of the subject, and
the head was modelled from a death-mask. The scenes on the
sarcophagus are examples of a then widely current and mannered
style of bas-relief, which was probably derived from a study of Dona-
tello. Of a similar nature are the rich wooden panels in the sacristy
of Murcia (1526). Probably the most admirable work of this style
is the many-figured alabaster retablo of St. Barbara in the sacristy
of the cathedral of Avila, in which the Scourging of Christ is the
Clrote$que Style, SPANISH ART. Sculpture. Iv
main group. Its perfect technieal finish would seem to indicate
Berrngaete himself as the author. As graceful examples of smaller
sculptures may be instanced the lecterns (atrlles) by Nie, de Ver-
gara and his son, in the choir of the cathedral of Toledo^ and the
chorister's desk (faoistol) by Bart. Morel (1670), at SevUle.
The most famous of the wandering artists of this period IsPibtko
ToRBiGiAm or Tobbioiano, the Italian sculptor to whom England
owes the monument of Henry YII. in Westminster Abbey. In Spain
the figure of a penitent St. Jerome, now in SeoUle Jtfu«etim, is as-
cribed to him ; and this Imposing monument served the Andalusian
sculptors in some sort as a canon for the delineation of muscles and
for proportions. The group in the church of the Hospital del Saugre
at Seville and the Garidad in Oranada Caihedtal are by artists whose
names have not yet been discovered. The crucifix of Benvenato
CdUni in the Eteorial was a gift of the Grand-Duke of Tuscany.
By far the most important work of the Italian Renaissance in Spain,
and also the masterpiece of its author, is the monument of the
Viceroy Raimund Gardona by Giotanui da Nola, in the church of
BeUpuig, near Ltfrida.
The contemporaries of Philip II. paid homage to the cinque-
cento style in its severest fdrm , and eschewed all ornamentation.
The importation of Italian works went on under his successors, but
merely for the use of the court. The needs of the church were sup-
plied by the resuscitation of the national art of wood-carving. The
Milanese artists LBONsLBoyi(Arezzo) and his sonPoMPSO furnished
the Egeorial with its statues of GharlesV., Philip II., and their
families, and with the figures of saints at the high-altar. Aramiuiii
shows fountains by Aloabbi and others. In the 17th cent. Madrid
was enriched by the large bronze equestrian statues of Philip III.
and Philip IV., by Pielro Tacea^ a pupil of Giovanni da Bologna.
These, however, exercised no influence on Spanish art.
Among the smaller specimens of the sculptor's art the first rank
is taken by the Gustodias (monstrances, pyxes), which almost no
large city-church in Spain is without. These are idealistic, tower-
like structures, in which the architectonic fancy of the metal-worker
could find scope unhampered by constructive conditions, ^3ne of
the largest and purest in style (Gothic) is that in Qerona; that in the
cathedral of Barcelona is less important. The 16th cent, was, how-
ever, the classic period of this branch of the silversmith's art. All
the nuances of the style during this century may be studied In the
castodias, still mostly preserved, executed by the Abpheb, a Spanish
family of German origin. Enbiqub Akphb is responsible for those
in Cordova (1513), Toledo (1624), and Sahagvn. His son Antonio
adopted the plateresque style (Santiago^ 1544; Medina de Rioseco).
The most celebrated member of the family was , however , Juan
(b. 1623), grandson of Enrique, the creator of the custodlas of Avila
(1571), SevilU (1680-87), and Valladolid (1590). He was also th
IVi Sculpture, . SPANISH ART. 16th Century:
autHor of a didactic poem (Varia ConmensuTacion; Seville, 1585).
The custodia of Palencia, by Juan de Benavente (1582), is in the
late-Renaissance style. The largest in Spain is that of Cadiz,
A curious page in the history of sculpture is filled by the King-
dom of Aragon. No other Instance is known of a land where sculps
ture flourished so long while the sister-art of painting was prac-
tically neglected. The continuous development of the art through
four generations is also unusual for Spain. We can here trace the
transition from the later mediaBval style, with its solemn serious-
ness and dignified realism, to the sensuous feeling for beauty of the
Italian Renaissance ; we can farther note the influence of the great
forms of antique art and of the violent poses of Michael Angelo,
and finally study an acclimated national style built up of all these
elements, of which the base is formed at one time of strong emotion,
at another of a cold and measured dignity. The ornamental element
here remains somewhat in the background, but this province shared
in the general enthusiasm for the ^grotesque style', as is evinced,
e.ff.y in the Casa Zaporta at Saragossa (1550).
The most prominent figure in the Aragonese school, and one of
the greatest sculptors of Spain, was Damian Fobmbnt (d. 1533),
said to be a native of Valencia, where he appears as one of the
purest representatives of the Italian taste. His short career gave
him time for only two large works in alabaster, and of these only
one shows him in the maturity of his power. In the retablo of the
Virgen del Pilar at Swagoisa (1511), with its three large groups,
and a predella containing seven smallet ones, it is evident that his
talent is still plastic ; between the two parts of the work he has made
a complete revolution in style. The larger groups (Birth, Purifi-
cation, and Assumption of the Yirgin) are characterized by a bold
and candid realism ; the figures are heavy and closely packed ; the
drapery is painfully studied. It is obviously intended as a contrast
to the emaciated and spiritual forms of the Gothic style and to
eclipse the retablo in the sister-church of La Seo. In the predella,
on the other hand, we are surprized to meet a free style marked by
cool and smooth elegance, cheerful and beautiful forms, rounded
ovals, light and clinging drapery, melting charm, and perspicuous
grouping. This complete change was explained by his contemporaries
as being due to the return of Berruguete from Italy. — The second
retablo, at Huesca, is marked by a wholly modern vein of refined
and sensuous charm, such as obtains in scarcely any other work of
Spanish art. Master Damian appears to have possessed not only
the classic training of the Humanists, but also their self-apprecia-
tion ; he calls himself *the rival of Phidias and Praxiteles*, and the
fact that he was allowed the unheard-of privilege of inserting life-
size medallions of himself and his wife in the base of both works
hows that the popular estimation of him coincided with his own.
Developed BenaUsanee^ SPANISH ABT. Sculpture, Mi
The solemnity of the scenes of the Passion is, as it were, veiled
hy the sense of the beautiful and the pleasing that prevails in these
groups. He seems to have paid little attention to the decorative
part of the work ; and the frame is in the Gothic style.
Alongside of Fonnent stands DntQo Moblambs, who completed
the portal of the convent-church of Santa Engraoia at Saragossa,
begun by his father Juan in 1505. It is adorned with nobly indi-
vidualized statues of the Madoifna and the ^Catholic Kings*, and is
conceived, both as to figures and ornamentation, in a style of classic
dignity. The Chapel of St. Bernard in the Seo, with the monument
of Archbp. Fernando de Aragon and his mother, is the best example
of his opulent style, in which the figures and the decoration, fancy
and realism, the ideal and the individual all receive a well-balanced
measure of attention. Different hands are, however, recognizable
in the execution ; the tomb of the bishop is perhaps by Ferment,
the Last Judgment in the lunette is ascribed to Beeerra. The works
of TudelUla (trascoro) are plastic decoration of a mannered and
professional stamp, with a mingling of the sacred and the profane.
The church of the convent of Pdblet was once a treasure-house
of mediaeval and modern sculptures. Since 1835, however, this
miracle of princely piety and pomp has been merely a monument
of a suicidal lust for destruction. A few works were carried off
safely to Tarragona. The lower part of the enormous alabaster re-
tablo of 1525 has been sadly mutilated. Fresher and more attract-
ive is the sumptuous portal of the church of the Yirgin at Calatayud
(1528), by Juan de Talavera and Etietme Vtray.
After the middle of the 16th cent, a style was evolved which
corresponded more or less to the Developed BenaiMance of Italy.
From the point of view of art Aragon and Castile now form one
large territory. This epoch was marked by a revolution in ecclesiast-
ical taste that is peculiar to Spain. The enthusiasm for figure
sculpture almost wholly expelled the decorative element, while at
the same time the predilection for bulk and multiplicity of detail
continued to increase. One result of this was that stone-carving
was practically abandoned, and the artist confined himself almost
exclusively to Wood (pine, cedar, linden, larch) as a cheaper and
more easily worked material. Colouring was not used at first. The
plateresque style had created its most brilliant productions in An-
dalusia and New Castile, but in the new style it was N. Spain
(Navarre, the Basque Provinces, Old Castile, Galicia) that came to
the front. Now arose those huge Rbtablos, which cover a choir
wall reaching up to the vaulting with a Jacob's Ladder of statues.
All that had been expressed in the 14-15th cent, by small painted
groups and panels was now translated into lifeslze statues and into
the dialect of those massive forms which the free marble sculpture
of Italy had created.
lYiii Sculpture. SPANISH ART. leth Century:
A view of these astonishing works, to wMoh the whole art of
the period in N. Spain was devoted, suggests many far-reaching
reflections. The church had begun by being suspioious of plastic
representations, and in the Christian Byzantine empire of the £.
painting had been the orthodox art. Now, in the extreme W. , a
state of things had come to pass in which, probably as a reaction
against Islam's hostility to images, an almost exclusive preference
was given by the church to the art 'of sculpture.
One of the most remarkable examples of this adaptation of the
medieval reredos to the forms of modern Italian sculpture is the
retablo of Tafalla in Navarre, by Miguel de Ancheta. This contains
35 statues and groups, in which all stages of relief are employed
with great technical dexterity. Studies of ancient statues are here
combined with ^contrasts' in the style of Michael Angelo and in-
stances of exaggerated emotion in mien and gesture. These qualities
are in part even more strongly accentuated in jthe retablo of Cas-
cante, by Pedro OonzaUsi de San Pedro and Ambrosio de Bengoeehea,
San Vicente in San Sebastian contains some noteworthy statues by
the last-named artist.
In Castile perhaps the most noted carver in wood was Oaspab
Becbera (1520-70), a painter and sculptor, who, like his pre-
decessor Berruguete, had spent many years in Rome, working under
Vasari in the Cancellerfa and under Daniele da Volterra in the
Trinitk de' Monti. He was also a learned anatomist and furnished
the plates for Valverde's Anatomy (Rome, 1554). On his return to
Spain he painted frescoes in the Royal Palace and the Pardo at
Madrid^ but his chief works were in the field of sculpture. In the
retablo of the Descalzas Reales, of which his designs only remain
to us, the three arts were represented in about equal measure. His
masterpiece is the retablo of Astorga (1558-69). His chief merits
are an ideal beauty and dignity, and a happy knack in pleasing the
eye; in expression and composition he is less satisfactory, and he
made Michael Angelo and the antique the substitutes for a study of
nature. His Asunta is a Niobe, his Cardinal Virtues are modelled
on the Day and Night of the Medici Chapel. This imposing work is
a good example of the discreet 'estofado' painting, which was resus-
citated after the colourless episode of the Renaissance. Of kindred
spirit is the retablo of Burgos (1577-93), by Rodrigo and Martin
de Haya.
Perhaps the boldest erection of this kind is the retablo of Santa
Clara at Briviesca^ begun by Diego OuUlen in 1526, completed by
Pedro Lopez de Qamit of Miranda ; but that of St. Casilda, in the
colegiata of the same place, is finer in detail. For the retablo of
San Asensio in the Rioja the main group of the Last Judgment in
the Sistine Chapel was translated into sculpture by Pedro Arbulo
Marguvete (1569). Another Maestre Guillen furnished the retablo
if Cdeerea and the doors and cabinets of the sacristy of Seville,
Developed Renaisaanee, SPANISH ART. Seutptwe. lix
The mneh over-estimated Juan de Juni (d. ca. 1686), who came
to Yalladolid from Oporto and Osma, earried the Miohael Angelo
cnlt into the realm of distortion and caricature. His successor,
GsBGoBio Hbbvakdbz of Galieia (1566-1636), warned by Juni's
extravagances, studied nature with great care and puiged the plastic
art of these scholastic mannerisms. His works at Yalladolid and
elsewhere deserve our admiration for their simplicity, nobility of
form, perspicuity, and depth of feeling. EaUban Jordan was a fol-
lower of moderate talent This school of sculptors was essentially
aristocratic but remained in touch with the deyout multitude by
its groups from the Passion (VaUadoUd Museum),
In SByiu:.B, as in Andalusia in general, the imposing works of
the plateresque style and the Italianizing school of painting had
forced the more popular style of sculpture into the background. It
was not until the Renaissance had died out, about the beginning
of the 17th cent., that a resuscitation of the medieval polychrome
sculpture took place. This was due to the energy of one man,
Mastikbk MoNTANifo (d. 1649), whose numerous works form a
prime element In the picture of artistic and ecclesiastical Seville.
In the works of this master and his school every trace of the Italian
style, with its mixture of Biblical Christianity and fantastic pa-
ganism, has vanished. Their art is the result of an essentially Spanish
attitude of mind, while the sense of form through which it is ex-
pressed is probably peculiar to Seville. Among its characteristics
are the earnest and melancholy heads with their classical features,
the slender and well-built figures, the quiet dignity, and the bril-
liant painting in oil, shimmering with gold yet used with discre-
tion. Such a flat treatment of the colouring as is exemplified by
Pacheeo (p. Ixvii) occurs but seldom. The statues are usually placed
In niches framed in restrained cinquecento ornamentation. In
purity of taste and artistic harmony they probably surpass all other
works of their class; in life, fancy, and individuality they are,
however, inferior to those already named. The most successful of
all are the single statues by Montafltfs. Some of the best and most
characteristic of these are in the museum {e.g, St. Dominic) and in
the cathedral (Madonna, Crucifix). Of rarer occurrence are large
groups in relief (Jerif) and portrait-statues (Guzman el Bueno and
Ms wife at Santiponce), The figures of the Jesuit fathers, St. Igna-
tius and St. Francis Xavler, in the University Church, are idealized
portraits, marked by noble severity of form and pathos of expres-
sion. To the people Montafi<^s appealed most forcibly in his groups
from tike Passion (pasoa)^ which were carried in the processions of
Holy Week.
The large and numerous works of his contemporaries and imi-
tators, like RoldcBii, Delgado, and JerihUmo Hemandet, produce a
purely material effect
Among the pupils of Montafi^s in the art of sculpture wa^
Ix Sculpture. SPANISH ART. 17th and 18th Cent, :
Alonbo Cano (1601-67), whose early works (e,g, in Santa Paula)
are very similar to those of his master, though a degree warmer and
unapproached in delicacy of treatment and colouring. His large
and small Conceptions (sacristy of Oranada) are reproductions of
the same originals. The head of St. Paul and the busts of Adam
and five in the same place and the St. Antony in San Nicolas of
Murcia are gems of polychrome sculpture.
Cano found several successors in Geanada. Josi de Mora (1638-
1725), in contrast to the somewhat unindividualized and monotonous
expression of Montafi^s, carried the religious pathos in his plastic
figures almost to the verge of the painful. In some cases, such as
his Mater Dolorosa and his statue of St. Juan de Dios (p-. 346), the
result is successful ; in many, however, his lank figures and doleful
miens make an impression of tiresome mannerism. Pedro de Mbna
(d. 1693) of Granada, on the other hand, excelled all the artists
already named in Invention and graphic power (£1 Angel at &ra-
nadUj Madonna in Santo Domingo at Malaga). The unpainted
wooden statuettes in the choir of the cathedral of Malaga are among
the most singular and significant products of Spamsh art, if not of
all modern sculpture. They form an entire heaven of those saints
and founders of religious orders who were most popular in Spain.
The more we inspect them, the greater is our astonishment that he
was able to make such living and intelligible personifications of
42 different characters, with no material to inspire him but the dry
records of their lives. Though nowhere recalling the model, yet
carefully individualized in every way and making the naive, un-
conscious impression of true saints, these statuettes are probably the
last word of Spanish art in plastic characterisation. The St. Francis
in the cathedral of Toledo j a ghastly ascetic type formerly ascribed
to Cano, is also by Pedro de Mena
In the last third of the ;17th cent, the Baroque Style pene-
trated the Iberian peninsula. The overloaded, extravagant, and
ugly decoration of CHu&aiouBBA (d. 1725) is especially distaste-
ful to the lover of art because it was the signal for the blind
lust for the destruction of the older altar-pieces, not only of the
Gothic period but also of the classic style of the 16th century.
Even Montafi^s had at times to give way to this later art. Hand
in hand with this pest went the subserviency of the clergy to the
popular desire for the coarsest materialization, a tendency which
the modern fashions in religion have enhanced. The apparatus for
moving the head, the eyes, and the mouth, the wooden dolls, with
real hair and real dresses, in which the bead and hands alone are
carved, mark the lowest level of the plastic art.
The *Trasparente' of NarcUo Tom£ In Toledo Cathedral Is a
lotorious example of the brazen desecration of one of the noblest
Baroque StyU. SPANISH ART. Sculpture, Ul
temples in Spain by an effect suitable only for the stage. The royal
statues executed for the.palace of the Bourbons at Madrid, now in
part lining the walks of the Bueno Retiro, are mere carioatures.
E^en in this period, however, there are not a few instances
which prove that character and training, though hampered by the
prescriptions of a degraded taste, can produce genuine works ap-
pealing to the sympathy of generations with a very different stand-
ard of art. The earnestness of Spanish devotion has sometimes in-
spired baroque forms with a spirit quite unlike the sensual and
frivolous tone of the Italians.
Among works of this kind may be mentioned the statue of
St. Bruno by Manuel Pereira (d. 1667) in the Cartuja, near Bwrgos;
that of St. Andrew on the portal of San Andres in Madrid; the
emotional and realistic groups of Salvador Carmona in Salamanca ;
and the statues otLuUa Roldan in the Escorial. One of the richest
and most tasteful of the rococo monuments is the fagade of the
cathedral of Murda, where some restraint was placed upon the
artists by the adjacent models. The Madonna over the high-altar
of Cuenea is a plastic picture. The statues in the park of San Ilde-
fomo are the work of a colony of French marble-cutters. The works
in the sacristy and santuario of the Cartuja of Granada are a de-
corative delirium of the baroque style of S. Spain, but in spite of
their utter lawlessness they produce a certain effect by the cost-
liness of their material (marble from the Sierra Nevada, etc.).
One of the chief figures in the history of Spanish sculpture
flourished in the first half of the 18th century. ¥ranoi8co Zarcillo
(1707-48), the son of a Neapolitan, was bom at Afurcta, and his
works there repay of themselves a visit to that town. Many of his
statues will seem to the superficial observer to be simply the usual
wares of the baroque style. We should not, however, allow our-
selves to be misled by the confused drapery and the excited
gestares j the careful eye will see a wealth of reality taken from
life, not without depth of feeling and nobility of treatment. In
this way those groups from the Passion, intended primarily for
materialistic effects and often designed with reference to their
motion in a procession, are raised to the dignity of true works of
art. Those who have not seen the groups in the Ermita de Jesus,
the retablo with the angels in San Miguel, and that of Santa Maria
de Gracia in CarUigena, have no complete idea of Spanish sculp-
ture. Groups such as that of the Agony in the Garden and the Kiss
of Judas may for the moment, through the captivating truth and
inwardness of their curious conception, throw all other known re-
presentatloi» into the shade — and that in spite of the fact that
the Saviour wears an embroidered velvet mantle.
Zarcillo, though the chief of his kind, was by no means isolated.
Until quite recently a room in the church of Santa Maria at San
Sebastian contained a small collection of similar works by native
Uii Painting. SPANISH ART. 12th to
Basque artists, such as Arimiendi and Ron. In 1880, howeyer, the
room being required for sohool - purposes , the churoh authorities
had them bitmed. — A short episode of pseudo-Greek sculpture
ensued, of which the Dos de Mayo Monument , by Josf Alvares^
and the Prado Fountain at Madrid may be taken as examples. The
most recent masters have returned to realism. AttractWe works in
terracotta are produced by Vallmitjana of Barcelona and others.
Large bronze monuments are successfully cast in the same city.
c. Painting.
No paintings of the Visigothic period are extant. It may be
assumed, however, that the Miniatwres dating from the first cen-
turies after the Arab conquest of Spain are the straggling and
degenerate offshoots of the Visigothic traditions. The richest col-
lections of illustrated manuscripts are those of the Eseorial and of
the National Library and Academy of History at Madrid, The bar-
barously degraded Latin style of the drawing (still known in Spain
as 'Byzantine^) is associated, as in the case of the missals of the
Franks, with northern (Irish) ornamental motives. The human
face is sometimes indicated merely by calligraphic lines and
flourishes ; in some of the Andalusian codices the drawings of the
human form are scarcely recognisable. An entirely new element —
that of the Abab Style of Building *— meets us in the manu-
scripts of San Millan in the Rioja (11th cent, and later). In the
Commentary on the Apocalypse by Brother Beatus (copies at Gerona
and in the Madrid Academy of History) occur full-page illustra-
tions of magnificent palaces with horseshoe arches and battlements.
Thus, in the very beginnings of Spanish culture, we detect the first
notes of that Oriental taste which continues during five centuries
and reaches its climax in the resounding harmonies of such crea-
tions as the council-room of the Cardinal's Palace at Alcald (1424).
Of mural paintings before the era of the pointed style the re-
mains are very scanty. The chief are the figures of saints in the
niches of the little church of El Cristo de la Luz at Toledo (see
p. xliv) and the extensive vault-paintings *al secco' in the chapel
of St. Catharine in San Isidore of l/con, with scenes from the
Passion. The latter, dating from the end of the 12th cent., are
the most important specimens of the ^Byzantine' style in Spain^ The
interiors of the Romanesque churches in the mountain-districts in
the N. and N.E. of the peninsula were frequently adorned with
paintings (12th cent, et seq.), just as in the central European
countries. Several cases have been found in Asturiaa and Aragon.
The introduction of the Abohitbctueb op N. Fbance was
quickly followed by the style of drawing evolved from it. Remains
may be seen in Navarre (Tudela and Pampcluna) and on the mon-
uments in the old cathedral of Salamanca. Of the three large
ural paintings of the Virgin in Seville^ those of Nuestra Sefiora de
IdUi Century, SPANISH ART. PakUing. Ixiit
RocamadoT at San Lorenzo and Nnestra S«nora del Corral In San
Ildefonso probably date from the 14th cent ; that In the Capilla de
la Antigua of the cathedral waa painted oTor in the 16th century.
These influences from the N. were accompanied by Italian
Influenobs, from Florence and Siena. Stamina (b. 1354) and Delia
(d. after 1466), two Tuscan painters of the school of Giotto, worked
at the courts of Juan I. and Juan II. of Castile. No anthenticated
works by these artists are extant, but tilie paintings on the Tault-
ing of the chapel of San Bias In the cloisters of Toledo are undoubt-
edly Giottesque. The large painting of the battle of Higaeruela in
the Aleazar of Segovia, which Philip II. caused to be copied for
the Eseofial, has been ascribed to Dello, but erroneously. The fresco
in the apse of the old cathedral of Salamanca is by NieoUu Floren-
tino. The easel paintings, such as the altar-piece of St. Clara at
TordeaiUoB, are more numerous.
The Landi of (he LimouHn Dialeet (Valencia, Catalonia, and
Majorca) have always been especially susceptible to the influence
of Italy. In this district, from the 14th till late in the 15th cent.,
a peculiar style flourished, which resembled the early Tuscan and
old Cologne schools. Its characteristics are light tempera colour-
ing, animated and graceful movement, flowing drapery, and flne
and even beautiful forms. These rotables are recognizable by their
flat, gilded frames, with (}othio tracery and ornamentation. Numer-
ous works of tills kind are preserved in Catalonia, as in the cathe-
dral of Jfonresa, the convent-church of San Ougat del Vallis near
Barcelona, and the museums of Valeneia and Palma, Some of the
paintings of the Yirgin are akin to those of William of Cologne and
Fra Angelico in their naive and child-like charm.
In the interior of the country these echoes of foreign styles
often disappear entirely. The most important work, interesting for
its date (1390) and its Moorish ornamentation, is the rotable from
the Monasterio de Piedra, now at the Academy of History in
Madrid, Mention may be made also of the old altar of San MiUan
de Sum in the tUoja, that of the Chapel of the Fremeda in the Es^
eorialy and the curious tempera-paintings on the curtains behind
the royal tombs in the convent-church of Ofia,
The Ea< Flemish School is represented in Spain by more
paintings than any other foreign s'^hool. Many of these were in-
troduced by traders, but many others were painted in Flanders to
the direct order of Spanish patrons. Others were painted in Spain
by Flemish masters, who resided in the country either temporarily
or permanently, bequeathing their style to their successors.
The history of the early-Flemish school in the peninsula begins
with the Journey of Jan van Etck to the court of Portugal, on
which occasion he also visited Spain. No originals from his hand
seem to be now extant-, but the Fountain of Life in the JVado
Museum^ which Enrique IV. presented to the convent of Parral a
Uiv Painting. SPANISH ART. 15th and 16th Cent. :
Segovia, may represent one of his compositions. Of the early-
Netherlandish altar-pieces still occupying their original positiohs
the following are the most important : the Crucifixion by Dcbbick
Bouts in the Capilla Real at Qranada; an Oratorium by the same
artist in the Colegio del Patriarca at Valencia; the great high-altar
of Palencia by Juan de Flandes (beginning of the 16th cent.) ; the
retablo of St. John's at Marehena; and the small and attractive
Dutch retablo of Bishop Fonseca by Juan de HoUmda (1507). Of
the three Descents from the Cross attributed to Roobb van dbr
Wbydbn that in the Eseorial is the original. The large Altar of
St Aubert of Cambrai, now in the Prado Museum, is the work of
pupils. Akin to Van der Weyden is the painter of the altar-piece
of Flemallen (panels at Frankfort-on-the-Maiu) , who is also the
artist of the wings by Master Werlis (Nos. 1352 et seq.) and the
panel with the story of Joseph (and the Annunciation). It is full
of Hispano-Moresco types and costumes. Many large and small
works of Gbbaebt David are found from the Balearic Isles to
Portugal, and his masterpiece is at Evora. A Spanish imitator is
illustrated at Segovia (San Est^an) and in Madrid Museum,
These works by prominent Netherlandish masters belong to the
later part of the 15th century. The most remarkable work of the
Hispano-Flemish style in the peninsula, however, dates from 1445,
i,e. scarcely ten years later than the completion of the masterpiece
ot the brothers Tan Eyck. This is the retablo with the portraits of
the five Consejers, painted by Luis db Dalmau for the old chapel
in the city-hall of Barcelona, In this work the oil technique, the
• forms, and even the actual singing angels of the famous Ghent
altar-piece appear in a Gatalonian guise. In Catalonia it is unique
of its kind; but somewhat later Castile produced the prolific Fer-
nando Qallegos (d. 1550), whose panels at Zamora and Salamanca
may be compared to the works of the Cologne * Master of the Holy
Relationship'. The court-painter Antonio del Bineon (1466-1500)
also belongs to this category, if he be really the author of the little
picture in the church of San Juan de los Reyes at Qranada, with its
portraits of Ferdinand and Isabella. His large work at Bobledo de
ChaveUt, with its numerous sections, has been repainted and ruined.
Those who pass from village to village in almost any Spanish
province will receive the impression that in the 15th cent, every
church possessed one or more painted Retablos, so great is the
number that have escaped (mostly in the poorer places) the 'Chur-
rigueresque' mania for restoration. Most of these works date from
the second half of the century and show the general characteristics
of the early-Flemish school: — the figures are lean, the outlines
sharp, the colours rich and aided by gold. Local types and customs,
peculiarities of dress and ornamentation are frequently used. The
legends are represented with drastic vigour, and the painter is often
quite unique in his way of relating Biblical events. In delicacy of
£aHy 8effUUan$, SPANISH AUT. PakUing. Ixy
workmanship and charm of colour they are, however, inferior to the
Flemish works of the same kind. In Nayarre, Aragon, and Uotis-
sillon a French element is noticeable; in Catalonia we see French,
German, and Italian influences at work side by side ; in Valencia
and the Balearic Isles the Italian influence is predominant
Those who have no time to visit the provinces may study the
different schools in the galleries of the larger cities. The Aragonese
school is represented in the Archsological Museum at Madrid;
Catalan works, of a bewildering variety of styles, are collected in
the cloisters of the Seo of Barcelona; Valencian and Balearic works
may be seen in the museums of Valeficia and Palma^ Leonese works
at Leon, and Castilian works at AvUa and Segovia, There are also
many Castilian paintings in the Prado Mtueum — among them the
charming Yirgen de la Rosa from the convent of Udtfs. The ceiling
paintings in the Alhambra (beginning of the loth cent.) may belong
to one of these provincial schools, probably that of Valencia.
From the stand-point of historical evolution the most notable
phase is the influence of the early-Flemish school on the painters
of Setillb, the most important centre in the subsequent history of
Spanish painting. Juan Sanohbz db Castso, whose St Christopher
(retouched) in San Julian dates from 1484, is the earliest known of
these Seville painters, and he stands at the head of a chain that
extends without a break to Murillo. An easel-painting by him of the
Virgin with SS. Peter and Jerome, lately discovered in St. Julian's,
proves that he formed his style under Netherlandish influences.
He was followed by Albjto Fbbnani>bz, who, with his brother Juan
Fbrkandbz Albman, was summoned from Cordova to execute some
works in the cathedral. His masterpiece in Cordova has disap-
peared, but the large panels he painted for the Sacristia Alta of
the cathedral of Semlle (1525), and now transferred to the more
favourable light of the Archbishop's palace, form one of the most
important pages in the history of early-Spanish art They are distin-
guished from most works of the period by a vein of dignity, serious-
ness, and simplicity. The stranger will at first find himself em-
barassed in his attempt to classify these works. Some of the heads
suggest Quinten Matsys, others have an Italian purity of line, still
others are popular types of a semi- African cast. A little familiarity
with the works of the school, however, reveals that a Spanish style
is beginning to be evolved from this eclecticism. But this was
soon afterwards nipped in the bud by the system of mannerism
imported from Italy. Probably the most attractive work both of the
master and of the time is the Madonna and angels in Santa Ana in
the suburb of Triana, Akin to the works of Fernandez are the
retablo In the Colegio del Maese Rodrigo, that of St Bartholomew
in the chapel of St Anna in the cathedral (1407), the repentant
St Peter in the museum of Cordova^ and the noble figures of holy
women in the retablos of Marchena and Ecija, The tempera pane
Baedbkkb'b Spain. e
Ixvi Painting. SPANISH ART. 16th Century:
of saints and founders of orders in San Benito de Calatrava seem to
belong to another school.
The feign of Ferdinand and Isabella, the most brilliant epoch of
Spanish history, could not fail to give a strong impulse to the arts.
From about 1470 to 1520 a group of painters flourished in Castile,
who compare more or less favourably with the Tuscan Quatro-
centlsts. The earliest and most extensive enterprise of this group
was the Arescoes in the cloisters of the cathedral of Leon^ executed
under Bishop Venier, an Italian (1464-70); but of this only frag-
ments remain. A much more distinct idea of the art of Juan db
BoBOONA (d. ca. 1633) is given by his mural paintings in the
chapter-room at Toledo^ while his frescoes in the cloisters and
elsewhere have vanished. He probably formed his style as the
assistant of Florentine painters, perhaps of Ghirlandajo. The works
at Toledo are scenes from the New Testament, painted in a clear
and bright fresco-tone, firm and broad in drawing; a certain stiffness
and crudity in types and gestures alone indicate that their native
soil is not Italy. This Burgundian painter, who was a brother of the
sculptor Philip Vigarnf, found an assistant and successor in Francisco
de Amberes, of whose works the churches of Toledo contain many
examples. He adapted the style to the small panels of the retablos
and sometimes enhanced the charm of the scenes by setting them
in rich and sunny landscapes (e.g. San Andres). That Borgona was
a skilful painter in oUs is proved by the panels in the Prado Museum
(Nos. 2178 et seq.), which are probably firom his hand, and by the
retablo of the cathedral of Avila (1608). In the latter place he had
as his colleagues the court-painter Pedro Berruguete and Santos
Cruz. In fact two hands besides his own are recognizable in this
important retablo — one that of a follower of Pietro Perugino, the
other that of a purely Castilian artist. The realistically conceived
racial types, the vigorous colouring, the firmness of the drawing
and perspective, and the skilful handling of the gilded surfaces
make Borgona's retablo at Santo Torafis in Avila and the Dominican
legends in its cloisters (now in the Prado Museum) take rank among
the most characteristic and pithy performances of early-Spanish
art. One of the offshoots of the school is Diego Cobbea, in whom,
however, the influence of Raphael also is noticeable ; his pictures,
coming partly fVom Guisando and now almost all collected in the
Prado Museum^ are vigorously painted and show a pleasing, though
somewhat uniform inventive faculty.
The national character which, like the woof in the Italian warp,
is more or less visible in the pictures of this period, both in subject
and conception, disappeared almost wholly after 1540 or there-
abouts. The fame of Michael Angelo and Raphael attracted many
Spaniards to Rome, where they spent either the whole (as RuviaUs)
ManneriaU. SPANISH ART. Painting. Uvii
or a great part of their lives — enough, in any case, to thoroughly
Italianize themselves. What they painted in Italy is nndistingnish-
ably drowned in the frescoes of the wholesale decorators like Vasari
and Zaccari, to whom ihey served as assistants.
The first of these Mannbbists was Alokso Bbbbuoubtb, the son
of Pedro, one of the most conspicuous names in the art-history of
Spain (comp. p. liv). The paintings attributed to him at Sola-
manea, ValladoUd, and PaUneia show a strange and yet intelligent
reproduction of Raphaelesque forms. His followers, with much less
indiyidnality, were Gctvpar Beetrra (p. IviU}, the hopelessly man-
nered Villoldo, Blaa del Prado, and the feeble LuU de VdMeo (these
two at Toledo). Luis db Moralbs (ca. 1508-86) of Badajox painted
pious pictures with applaase, but his later figures of the Mater
Dolorosa and Ecce Homo are lamentable caricatures which show to
what a depth the taste of the period had sunk. In SevilU the Italian
influence seems to have been at first transmitted through glass
painters from the Netherlands, such as Amao de Flandes (1525
et seq.). The 'good manner' was afterwards represented by Luis ob
Vaboas (1502-68), who painted large frescoes with some success
(Giralda). The work known as *La Gamba^ seems to indicate that
he also was a member of Vasarl's circle. Alonao Vcuquet has a
certain Flemish flavour. The most prominent of all is Pbdbo
Campana {de Kempeneer; 1503-80) of Brussels, who lived 24 years
in Andalusia. His Descent from the Cross (1549) and his Purifica-
tion in the cathedral ot Seville are the most pregnant and individual
works of the whole school. The last representative of this class was
F&ANCisco Pachbco (1571-1654; p. lix), the teacher and father-
in-law of Velazquez, originator of a collection of portraits of emin-
ent Sevillians and author of a valuable text-book of painting.
The style of ornamentation used by Giovanni da Udine in the
logge of the Vatican was afterwards successfully introduced by Julio
de AquilU of Rome and Alexander Mayner in the Alhambra Pavilion
and in the Infantado Palace at Qtiadalajara. Cincinnati continued
this style in the chapter-room and in the prior s cell at the Eacorial.
When Philip U. undertook to adorn this gigantic building with
frescoes and altar-pieces, he had so little confidence in Spanish
painters that he entrusted almost the whole work to Italians. Fedb-
Eioo ZuccARi, LuoA Cambiaso (of Gcnoa), and other masters ans-
wered his summons ; but the performances of these rapid-woVking
decorators were so little in harmony with their reputation that the
Spaniards fancied that in the new climate they worked under an evil
star. Pbllborino Tibaldi had greater success in the library, though
his works could, it is true, seem imposing only to those who had
not seen the Sistine Chapel. The stamp of true art was better seen
in the few eflbrts of BarU Carducho (in the Ptado), which still show
something of the style and charm of Andrea del Sarto. Most of these
Italians settled in Spain; and they, their younger brothers, their
Ixviil Painting, SPANISH ART. 16th and 17th Cent,:
dons, and their hangers on (like NarcU) supplied the artistic UFants
of the churches and castles of Castile (the Pardo^ the Alcazar of
Segovia^ down to the time of Velazquez. The most prolific was Yin-
CENCio Carducho, the author of a well-written little work on his
art (Dialogos, 1633). His style and that of his compeers recalls the
second Florentine school of the 16th century. Their merit is to
have placed the standard of artistic training on a higher level.
The CouBT PoBTBAiT Paintebs deserve special mention. Sir
Anthony More (ArU, Mor) was greatly admired by Philip II., and the
Prado Museum possesses from his hand some well -characterized
portraits of the house of Hapsburg and a series of excellent pictures
of ladies. Alonso Sanchez Coello (d. 1590) formed himself in
More's school and often nearly equals his master. He was followed
byPANTOJA DB LA Obuz (1651-1610), the court-painter of Philip in.,
who, though stiff and conventional, possesses some interest on
account of his elaborate studies of the dress of his time. The cold
and precise manner of these painters corresponds closely with the
reserved, formal, and etiquette-bound personages they painted.
The most valuable part of the adornment of the Etcorial and
the Palace of Madrid was the Venetian Paintings. These were
mainly furnished by Titian to the order of Charles V. and Philip 11.
Their number was afterwards increased by the two Bacchanalian
scenes from Ferrara and by numerous works of Jac. Tintoretto and
Paolo Veronese. Thus the Prado Gallery to this day contains the
greatest collection of Venetian paintings outside Venice. The Vene-
tian school was the most congenial to Spain of all the Italian schools,
and its influence may be traced even in the 16th century. Juan
Fbbnandbz Navabbetb (1526-79), the dumb painter of Navarre,
at first showed himself akin to the mannerists above described ; but
after the king had commissioned him to paint the Apostles (in the
church) and other extensive works at the Escorial, he remodelled his
style by a study of the paintings by Titian he saw there, and showed
that he understood the grand old master better than many of his
immediate pupils. He died, however, while engaged in these tasks.
In Toledo, about the same time, appeared that curious Greek artist,
DoMENico Thbotoc6puli (1548-1626), a pupil of Titian. His Christ
on Calvary, in the large hall of the sacristy, shows a power of intel-
ligent characterization and a mastery of artistic materials that prom-
ised great things. Afterwards, through a craving for originality, he
developed an incredible mannerism ; that this was not without its
admirers is shown by the numerous works by him in the churches of
Toledo and Castile. In his portraits, however, in spite of all affecta-
tions, he has delineated the peculiar dignity of the Castilian hidalgos
and the beauty of Toledan dames with a success attained by few.
In Sbvillb also the short reign of the mannerists was followed
by a return to a more healthy style of art. In the paintings of the
School of Valencia. SPANISH ART. Painting. Ixix
cleric Juan de las Roblas (ca. 1560-1625) already sound all the
strings to -which the painting of the 17th cent, owes its sueeess. They
contain the death-sentence of that pretentions mannerism which
affected to look down upon life, colour, and chiaroscuro. The hroad,
free, and yet sofk drawing, the light and warm key, the yellcwish
brown tones have led to the supposition that Roelas also studied in
Yenice. In his Death of St. Isidore he produced an eooleaia:)tical
scene, which Zurbaran himself has not excelled for snreness of touch
in the delineation of Spanish character. His Liberation of St. Peter
resembles Honthorst, his Martyrdom of St. Andrew recalls Ribera;
his angelic concerts of yolce and instrument are full of an Andalus-
ian gaiety not unworthy of Murillo. The Madonna over the altar
of the nniyersity-church has a gracious sweetness that is all her
own. Roelas may also be studied to advantage in the Meroenarian
Church at San Lucar de Boframeda.
The bizarre Fbancisco Hbbbbba (ca. 1576-1656) is often looked
upon by the Spaniards as the originator of their national style on
account of the breadth and *fury' of his brush. In his earlier and
better pictures (such as the Last Judgment in San Bernardo) he is,
howeyer, nothing more than a vigorous pupil of Roelas. The interest
he arouses is of a personal kind. He evinces the earnestness, the
energy, the Are of a strong nature, which despises the artificial,
hut Anally sinks into an extravagant decorative style of painting.
School of Yalbnoia. Next to the Andalusians the Yalencians
seem, of all provincials of Spain, to possess the greatest aptitude for
painting. The history of their school is, however, less well known,
though it reaches back farther into the middle ages. It can be traced
from the 14th till the middle of the 17th century. The prolific
schools of retablo-painters that flourished here , as in the neigh-
bouring district of Catalonia and the Balearic Isles, show a distinctly
original strain, coupled with considerable resemblance co the Tre-
centists and Qnattrocentists of Tuscany. The names mentioned in
the doeuments seem all of native stock. An idea of the former
wealth of paintings in this province may be obtained from some of
the chance survivals. Thus in JdUva, the native place of the greatest
painter of the province, more than a dozen altar-pieces of the
15th cent, have survived the iconoclasm of the War of the Spanish
Succession. The visitor to Valencia may study the different styles
of the province in the musenm.
In the latter part of the 15th cent, the Borgias brought many
Italian works of the golden period into their native province of
Valencia. The first place among these is taken by the large retablo
of the Seo at Valencia, with its sixteen panels by Fbbbando db
Alhedina, a pupil of Leonardo daYind, and Fbbbaitdo db Llanos.
Both Valencia and Mwrcia contain other Leonardesqne works. Heman
Janes, the mastOT of the two altars in the Albomoz chapel of ^he
Ixx Painting. SPANISH ART. 16th and 17th Cent. :
cathedral of Cuenca, has been identified witli the Spaniard Fer-
randOj yarned in Da Vinci's biography. Paintings of Pinturicchio
and other members of the Umbrian school vieie also brought into
the province by the Borgias (e.g. the Madonna with Card. Rodrigo
Borgia in the museum of Valencia), Those in the cathedral of
8iguenza were imported by othei hands.
Such models may account for the well-known and over-estimated
YiOBKTS JoANES Macif {Viceitte Jooncs f 1523-79), who, perhaps,
visited Italy. His numerous and generally small pictures are attract-
ive through their warm and deep colours, their vigorous handling,
and their rich Uudscapes. These properties, however, cannot conceal
their poverty of invention nor the uniforn^ity of the types, attitudes,
expression, and grouping. His Holy families are cramped and
awkward copies of Leonardo da Yinci and Raphael. They owe their
reputation to their devout piety ; many of them refer to the cult of
the Holy -Sacrament so zealously furthered by the pious Archbp.
Ribera. The widely scattered Last Suppers aud figures of Christ
were intended for the doors of the Sagrario. On a higher level
stands the Baptism of Christ at the entrance of the Seo, which
suggests a study of Sebastian del Piombo and was probably paint-
ed immediately after Joanes's return f^om Italy.
More important was the earlier Pablo db San Lbooadio, highly
appreciated by his contemporaries but overlooked by the writers
of biographical dictionaries and encyclopaedias. His large rotable at
Oandia and the now dismembered retablo of ViUarreal reveal him
to us as a painter who did for Valencia what Juan de Borgofia did
for Castile, fie is distinguished by deep culture, nobility of form
and expression, delicate sensibility, and close observation of life.
An artist of similar tendencies has left several works at Segorbe,
Till the second half of the 16th cent, the Valencian painters
adhered to the well-coloured, but somewhat over-elaborated man-
ner of the mediaeval retablo, in which the accessories were depicted
with disproportionate care. The first to make himself master of the
^broad manner' of the Italians, and at the same time the first to
give forcible expression to the Valencian nature and point of view,
was FnANcisco Ribalta (155?-1628). He trained himself by trav-
elling in Italy and followed the tendency which produced the
school of Bologna. His retablo in Carcagente shows that he was
familiar with Correggio and Schidone. He is the first who used
chiaroscuro as the tone-giving element of his work and emphasized
the plastic modelling of his figures by a strong light from one side.
The violent attitudes and foreshortenings of Correggio are not want-
ing, but in other respects his rude, coarse, and sometimes tasteless
art has little in common with the Parmesan master. His figures are
big-boned and muscular. #
Ribalta's best pupil was the prolific, pleasing, and adroit Jacinto
Jerdnimo de Espinosa (1600-1680), who is easily recognizable by his
School of Valencia. SPANISH ART. PakUing, Uxi
bright-red shado'ws. His large scenes from the legends of the Americ-
an missions, in the museum of Valencia^ are interesting. Other
artists of Valencia are Estiban March^ the extravagant painter of
battle-scenes, and Pedro OrrenU (d. 1644 j San Andrtfs), vho after-
wards made a success at the court of Madrid with his pastoral scenes
and Biblical landscapes in the manner of Bassano. The Zarinenaa
and other minor painters hardly deserve mention.
According to Valenciau traditions Jusepe Bibera (1583-1656)
of Jativa, known as Lo Spagnoletto, was also a pupil of Uihalta,
before he visited Italy. It is true that Ribera followed Caravagglo,
whom he can hardly have known personally, in the realistic prin-
ciple of never painting without a model and in the dark tone of his
better-known works j but he was at bottom of a very different spirit
from the Italian master, and all the distinguishing marks of his
art may really be found in Ribalta. It may have been Ribalta who
made him acquainted with Correggio, whom, as is well known, he
imitated at first. Rlbalta's son, who died about the same time
as his father, has left a large Crucifixion (1615 j VaUncia Museum)^
which is conceived wholly in the manner of Spagnoletto and was
painted about the time of the latter's arrival in Naples.
Those of Ribera*s pictures that are found in Spain usefully sup-
plement in many important points our knowledge of his life and
character. The large Crucifixion^ which his first patron, the Duke of
Osuna, caused him to paint, among other pieces, for his private
chapel at Osuna, is probably his earlient extant work. Spain also
possesses a few of those masterpieces in which he rivals Titian
in beauty and brilliancy of colouring and shows himself to be the
greatest colourist of Italy In the 17th century. Among these is his
unapproachable Immaculata^ in the church of the Agustinas Reco-
letas at Salamanca, which excels, in colour and splendour of light,
in nobility of form and Invention, all thatMurillo, Guide Reni, and
Rubens have attained in their representations of this subject. The
gentle and melancholy type that is familiar through the Dresden
St. Agnes is seen in several Paintings of the Magdalen at Madrid
and in the Rest on the Flight into Egypt (Cordova). A few Studies
of Apostles from Neapolitan models, now in the Prado Museum, give
ns an opportunity to observe his process of modelling ; they are
unsurpa-sed as examples of pictorial relief.
Ribera, who is unapproached by any of his fellow-countrymen
in his knowledge of, and skill in, drawing and modelling, represents
the seriousness and depth of Spanish piety, sometimes degenerating
into morbidity and cruelty. He also, though more rarely, shows a
poetic charm, that glows like a richly coloured flower among the
rocks. He gave the first example of the combination of realism
with the Roman Catholic spirit; and thus he became the liberating
genius that showed to the painters of the 17th cent, the national
way to originality and greatness.
Ixxlv Paintmg, SPANISH ART. MuriUo,
ty Ms well-built figures and by the noble types of Mb' Madonnas,
who, with their broad brows, large oval eyes, and heavy eye-lashes,
form a charming supplement to Murillo's S. Spanish women. His
Rest on the Flight into Egypt, in the Oartuja, is possessed of an
ineffable charm. To do justice to this very prolific master we must
disregard many of his slighter works.
While Bocanegra Is lacking n versatility, no such verdict can bo
passed on Juan db Sbvilla, who was not uninfluenced by Murillo.
His numerous works in the churches of Granada repay inspection.
If Velazquez Is the chief magnet for the artist and the connois-
seur, Bartolomi Estiban Mnrillo (1617-82) is undoubtedly the
most popular of Spanish painters and one of the most popular of
all who ever wielded brush. It is singular that Murillo, one of the
few artists who never quitted Spain, who was never happy except
in his own province, and who painted nothing but what he found
close to his hand, has triumphantly marched through Europe
during the past two centuries as the first of Spanish painters. So
many works of the master are now in foreign lands, that the visitor
to Spain will greet him as an old friend ; indeed Ms genre-scenes
are almost unrepresented in Spain. The cathedral and the Oaridad
of Seville and the Oapuchiti church at Cadiz are almost the only
places where Murillo*s works still occupy their original positions.
The collection in the museum of Seville is more important for an
appreciation of the master than that at the Brado.
It has lately become fashionable to depreciate Murillo in con-
trast with Velazquez, partly in reaction against his popularity with
the layman and partly on technical and artistic grounds. It appears
to us that neither reason is justified. The two masters should not
be compared — the one holds the mirror to nature and his period,
the other shows us what lies behind the brow. Murillo, who lived
in a fanatically Roman Catholic provincial town and painted for
conventual churches , hospitals , and sacristies , had to represent,
like the contemporary Italians, the subjects that pleased the devout
of his day, such as the Immaculate Conception, the visions of the
monk's cell, the mysteries and ecstasies of asceticism. He could not
devote his entire energy to the reproduction of the mere visual phe-
nomenon. He had to depict what was never seen } he had to wrestle
for y fears with such a problem as how to paint successfully a human
face set against a background of glowing light. But his critics
shut their eyes to his marvellous mastery of the illustrative appar-
atus, in which he vies with the Italians of the Academic School.
They assert that his effects are purely materialistic, though hundreds
of artists, already forgotten or quickly passing into oblivion, have
produced precisely similar effects so far as the material outside is
concerned. The fact that we speak of Murillo's St. Antony and
•IsPurlsima as if he had created them is itself a proof that he does
MuriUo, SPANISH ART. Painting. Ixx?
not 0176 everything to his material. It is more probable that the
depreciation of Mnrillo — which sounds especially ungracious in
the months of Spaniards — has its real ground in the modern
materialist's dislike of the mystical subjects of the painter. He
has represented things which the power of Velazquez refused to
grapple with ; but to give reality to the never-seen is also legitimate
art. He depicts the miraculous in so naiVe and intimate a way, that
it loses its unnatural character ; and his pictures are so simple and
so tmthfiilly felt that even the sceptic can appreciate their charm
and read into them purely human ideas.
Murillo was originally as essentially a realist as Zurbaran or Velaz-
quez. If we consider his portraits of the churchmen, 8t. Ildefonso and
8t, Bernard^ at Madrid, which affect us so soberly in their legendary
setting, or those canons of Seville, whom he has represented as
8U Leander and 8L Isidore^ we are struck by the fact that their in-
dividual truthfulness is purer, freer firom the conventional pattern,
and sometimes even more ruthless than that of many highly esteemed
portrait-painters of the century. Where his task was merely to re-
produce the actual, as in his famous Groups of Boys and in the
rendering of accessories such as animals, ecclesiastical vessels, or
the contents of a library, he has combined his characteristic broad-
ness of touch with due attention to the accuracy, form, and pleas-
ingness of the external appearance. His artistic greatness , the
secret of his wonderful success lies in the fact that he recognized
the unique character and special charm of the human nature of
S. Spain, adapted it to the palette and the brush, and ventured to
introduce it into paintings of religious subjects. This accounts
for those elastic figures, the soft and supple forms of which lend
themselves much more readily to painting than to sculpture ; this
is the source of the deep brown of the large eyes and hair, set off
by a warm flesh-tone reflecting the light. To many this seems a
thing of no great importance ; but he was the first to discover it,
and none of his imitators has reached his level. The Andalusian
saints and Madonnas seen elsewhere might just as well have been
painted in Naples or in Holland. It is not enough merely to copy
the models ; Zurbaran has done so, but remains frosty and alien.
Murillo has beaten all competitors in his grasp of the feeling of the
GathoUc Christian. Like Rembrandt, he recognized with the insight
of genius that Biblical history and the legends of the saints could
be best narrated In the dialect of the people.
There are no authenticated examples of Murillo*8 *prentice
works, the so-called PacotiUas for the Feria and the Indian adven-
turers. Of the cycle of Franciscan LegendSy with which he sur-
prized the Sevillians on his return from his later sojourn in Madrid
(1645), only two have been left in Spain : — the Heavenly VioUnist
and the Charity of St. Diego, both in the Madrid Academy. Th
latter, a beggar-piece, is the most unpretending of the series, b
Ixxvi Painting. SPANISH ART. MuriUo.
is full of truth, pathos, and humour. The other pieces of the cycle,
in which he allowed his talent for depicting the miraculous to play
in the most unfettered and most marYellously versatile manner, are
now scattered in Paris, Toulouse, New York, and England.
Murillo, the pupil of a careless and incorrect academician like
Juan de Castillo, would not have become what he was, if he had not
also undergone the purging of both phrase and manner offered
by the naturalism of the period . His study of Ribera is, «.p. , shown
by his Adoration of the Shepherds and by his earliest system of light.
Many of his earlier paintings (such as the Annunciation) are
cold and sombre in tone, sad in colouring, black in the shadows,
jejune and trivial in character and expression. The picture of
8t, Ildefomo^ with its chattering angels, rather resembles the choice
of a gown at a couturier's than an investiture with the celestial
casulla. This early style is known as the Estilo Fkio (cold style).
Such generalizations, however, must not be applied in too sweeping
a manner, as, e.y., the Rebecca at the Well belongs to this period.
MuriUo is never more attractive than in his scenes of patriarchal
life j his home, indeed, was semi-Oriental.
His next phase, known as the Kstilo Calido (warm style), is
marked by deeper colouring and strong contrasts of light and
shadow ; but the light is actual light, and the plastic forms are
well defined. Good specimens of this style are the charming Virgin
and Child, the St. Bernard, and the Holy Family in the Carpenter's
Shop. It is only here and there that we find proof of his study of
the nude, as, e.g., in his Resurrection at the Academy, the interest
of which is mainly technical. His St. Antony in the baptistery of
Seville, denoting the high-water mark of his art, dates from 1666,
or scarcely a decade after his artistic new birth.
Murillo's last style, peculiar to himself, is known as el Vapo-
Boso, from a certain vaporous or misty effect that it produces. He
here shows the unmistakable influence of Rubens, whom he had
studied in engravings. The struggle of all great colourists to over-
come the heaviness, opacity, and hardness of matter led Murillo to
his last system. Although still of solid impasto (hence the enduring
quality of his painting), his brush-work is now loose and firee ; he
produces his effect by a variety of tints melting into one another; he
arranges the drapery now in sharp folds, now in flat He models
in the light without the aid of grey shadows ; his palette is full of
cheerful and warm colours ; his figures are overflowing with life
and sensibility ; he has-found the secret of so dematerializing them,
partly through their gestures and partly through his handling of
drapery, chiaroscuro, and accessories, that they seem to float in the
air; his visions are, as it were, woven of light and air.
To this last style belongs the great Cycle in the Church of the
C'iridad, of which the Moses, the Feeding of the Five Thousand,
and the St. Juan de Dies are still in situ, while the St. Elizabeth is in
MuriUo. SPANISH ART. Painting. Ixxvil
the Madrid Academy. The two pictnres referring to the foundation
of Santa Maria Maggiore (Dream of the Rotnan KnightJ^ the Holy
Children at the Springy and the Poreiuneula (all at Madrid) also
date from this period. His mastery over his materials is shown at
its height in his latest Cycle for the Capuchin Churehj the chief poss-
ession of the Seville Museum. The ascetic has never been moro
convincingly or attractively represented than in the St. Francis em-
bracing the crucifix. The main central painting, the Porduncula,
probably the richest canvas he ever painted, is unfortunately
absent; its ruined remains are in the picture-gallery of Pau.
Murillo, who transferred the children of the gutter to canvas
with such unexampled fidelity, was not less successful with chil-
dren of a nobler mould. His wanton cherubs in the clouds, the
thoughtful angels of somewhat older growth, the youthful John and
Jesus with their expression of unconscious foreboding, and the child
Mary as the pupil of her mother, a dainty and Intelligent little
maiden : — all are charming in their way. Indeed it might be said
that MuriUo is successful just in proportion to the youthfulness of
his figures. Probably no one can stand unmoved opposite the child-
like i\<fisima in the Prado Museum. Old age is a kind of second
childhood ; hence his venerable saints affect us in a similar manner.
The colossal and forcibly painted Madonna of the VenerabHeB (Seville
Museum) proves that nobility, simple breadth of drawing, and
dignity of gesture were all at his command. No Italian or Flemish
master, dealing in equally conventional externalities, is so ver-
satile in type, age, conception, and effect of light. This variety
in his system of presentation , being determined by no limits of
time, makes it difficult to fix the chronological order. of his works.
The description of MuriUo as an improvisatore, who 'sings as
the bird sings*, is not very apposite. Few men have so well under-
stood the art of pictorial composition or known so well how to charm
the eye by gradations of light, skilful attitudes, and adroit fore-
shortenings ; few painters have calculated their effects more care-
fally. This may be well studied in his extremely thoughtful Sketch
of St. Andrew, at Madrid. One of his most telling effects, especially
in scenes of visionary illumination, is the penetration of the
dark wall by the vista of a cloister or patio bathed in the cool light
of day.
The pupils of Mnrillo, like Meneaez Osorio and Alonso Miguel
de Tobar, sometimes inherited the graceful charm of their master,
but their works show their inferiority by gloomy expression and the
emptiness of their forms. Several of the contemporaries and rivals
of the aging Murillo, such as Herrera the Younger, are unattractive
'bravura' painters. The slight works of Feakcisco Antolinez,
with their numerous figures and cheerful colouring, are often taken
for 'sketches' by Murillo. A special place is taken by Sebastian
DB Llanos t ValdAj, whose oblong pictures, with their lifelike
lixvlli Painting, SPANISH ABT. Velazqiut.
half-length figures, are painted in the spirit of Garavaggio and
Honthorst and ^ith a carefulness seldom exhibited in this period.
Probably there is no other instance in which the works of a
great master can be studied under such favourably conditions as
those of Diego Velazquez (1599-1660) in the Prado Museum at
Madrid. Though not containing all his works, this collection yet
contains so many of them, including all his larger compositions,
that the student can obtain an adequate idea of this painter without
leaying the building. And all these paintings are still in the place
where they were originally executed and are still surrounded by a
living commentary of man and nature. Velazquez is undoubtedly
the greatest artistic genius that the school x)f Seville has produced,
though he was of Portuguese origin and properly named De SUva,
He owed his thorough training in the fundamentals of his art to his
father-in-law Pacheoo (p. Ixvii), while differing from him widely
in talent and spirit. Like Cervantes in letters, so he in art was the
only master to elevate the element of realism in the Spanish
character to the sphere of genius ; neither can be compared with the
great men of any other nation. From the greatest painter of Holland
the Spaniard is distingaished by his want of fancy. While, however,
Rembrandt often translates us to a foreign world by his lighting,
costume, and highly accentuated subjectivity, Velazquez's represent-
ations on the other hand, in spite of the intensity of their purely
Spanish essence, can yet be used for all time as a standard of free-
dom from conventionality and subjectivity, and for the unfettered
vision of nature which grasps the whole truth of the optical pheno-
menon without either addition or loss.
Of his earliest studies in the so-called Tavern Piboes (Bode-
gones) none remain in Spain ; of his early Religious Pieces one
only, the Adoration of the Magi at the Prado (1619). These pictures
are of interest as showing that Ribera was his first model, though
his Magi are portraits of Sevillian gentlemen and his Madonna is
merely an Andalusian peasant, entirely destitu'e of the beauty
and poetry of the Valencian master's conception. His praise of
Luis Tristan is probably due to the fact that this master was great
in chiaroscuro ; the Prado possesses nothing by this painter, but
there are several large works by him in the churches of Toledo and
Yepes. Feeling very rightly that he was not in his proper place
at Seville, where painting flourished solely by the patronage of the
church and the convent, Velazquez strove to gain a footing at
court, succeeding on his second attempt (1623). The success of
his first efforts to please his new circle, especially of his Equestrian
Portrait of Philip IV, (now lost), was immediate and permanent.
He was also brought into personal contact with the king and his
all-powerful minister through holding a series of oourt-offlces, cul-
'iinating in that of Marshal of the Palace. His many engrossing oc-
Velatques. SPANISH ART. PaiiUhig. Ixxix
cnpatioDS, the propinquity of the monarch (who often visited him in
his studio), and a dash of Spanish indolence partly explain his
later style, remarkahle for its incredible simplicity and speed. This
quality appeals to the craftsman as distinct from the artist, and it has
raised an army of imitators, who acquired his technique superficially
but utterly failed to fathom the purpose for which he had formed it.
His Early Pobtiuitb (painted between 1623 and 1629), in-
cluding those of the King, Von Carlos, Qongora, and the Jnfania
Maria^ are of a rare plastic power, but also show a certain degree
of hardness, with narrow shadows on an empty, often light-coloured
background. The only extant Composition in this first style is The
Topers (Loa Borrdchos), a kind of parody of the initiation cere-
mony of an Order, the knights of which are tramps and peasants.
The modelling of the nude youth, the expression of drunken satis-
faction in the heads of the old men, the truth to life of these
popular Gastilian types (resembling ihe satyrs of Qreek art) make
this piece the gem of all southern *bambocciate\
Plastic and spacial truthfulness was the goal that Velazquez
held steadfastly in view ; colour was with him merely a means to
an end and was strictly confined to this function. If at first he at-
tained this goal through the easier and yet effective methods of the
naturalist, he afterwards grappled with the more difllcult problem
of modelling in pervasive and reflected day-light. The turning-
point is marked by his FntST Joubnbt to Italy, the fulfilment of
a long- cherished wish.
Soon after completing the ^Borraohos^ YelaJ^quez set out for
Italy (1629). His first visit was to Venice, whose masters Titian and
Tintoretto attracted him more than all other Italians and alone ex-
ercised a practical influence on him. His stay in Italy was cut short
by a summons from the king, but he succeeded in making a Sboond
Journey thither on the pretext of buying pictures for the royal col-
lection. In Rome he lived at the Villa Medici, and abandoned himself
freely to the quaint landscape-charms of the Roman gardens. The two
large pictures that he painted here ( Vulcan's Forge and The Coat of
Many Colours) prove, however, that neither the antiques, by which
he was surrounded, nor the Vatican, where he often sketched, were
able to move him one hair's breadth from the course he had pre-
viously pursued. The Vulcan scene was obviously selected as an
opportunity for the delineation of nude figures, which here, in spite
of the cave and the furnace, are painted almost without shadow.
In this respect, as well as in the grouping and in its dramatic in-
tensity, this work stands almost without a rival. The trivial con-
ception of the mythological material, in the style of the Spanish
comedy, was for him a mere humorous accompaniment.
To this Sbcond Style belong a number of his best Pobtbaits,
inehding those of the Young King, his brother Ferdinand, and the
Infante in Hunting Dress (hastily painted for the chateau of Pardol
Ixxx Painting. SPANISH ART, Velazquez.
His unique and many -figured Hunting Pieces are represented,
in Madrid solely by a copy of the Boar Hunt now in the London
National Gallery, here every figure would afford material for a
large picture. — A little later came the large Equestrian Portraits
of Philip IV., Prince Balthasar, and OUvares, the Portrait of Count
Benaventey and, lastly, the five Dwarfs and the Buffoons (Truhanes),
completing a truer and more exhaustive series of illustrations of
social life than any other modem court fan show. — The hlue
ocean of light, the silvery tone of the wide slopes of lonely, sparsely
wooded valleys, contrasting with the warm red, brown, and yellow
tints of the mounted figures, produce an ineffable effect. Velazquez
poses his characters in the most ordinary and conventional way ;
he considers it needless to enliven them with picturesque attitudes ;
their expression is that of men who believe themselves unobserved.
Their attractiveness lies in their unflinching truthfulness. Velaz-
quez is of all portrait painters the one who puts least of himself
into his pictures. He carries his individualization into complexion,
habitual expression, and nervous tension. He emphasizes rather than
softens individual characteristics, even when they are unpleasing.
His style is redolent of the pride which recks not how it may look
to others. With a thin impasto he attains a relief and a play of
light in the equable illumination of his skies, compared with which
even the Venetians seem heavy and untrue.
All the qualities of his large equestrian portraits are found in
his most important historical composition , the Surrender of Breda,
When we compare it with the earlier representation of the event as
seen from the ordinary Spanish view-point by Jos^ Leonardo, we
are struck by the innate superiority of Velazquez and by the true
nobility of his way of thinking. This scene of the victor wishing
well to the vanquished is like a final and friendly note signalizing
the end of eighty years of international enmity. The great war was
never so vividly depicted as in the military figures compressed
within this narrow area. To appreciate it fully, we must try to
imagine how others would have treated the same subject.
After his second Italian journey a Third Makner becomes
apparent in his way of painting. With a still more delicate spirit
of observation he endeavours to realize the visual phenomenon and
to fix the general effect with quick strokes of the brush, without
for a moment losing sight of the whole. In the Family of Philip IV,
or Las Menmas he has chosen the twilight of a large and deep
room. The movement of the figures in their different and yet nearly
touching planes, their almost stereoscopic fulness, the definite
materialization of the indefinite , the perpetuation of a single mo-
ment — all this gives the work a dreamlike charm. It is as if we
were looking through some magic telescope into the domestic in-
terior of the Hapsburg prince. In Las HiUideras, probably the first
view of a manufactory ever painted, he grappled with a different
Madrid School, SPANISH ART. PodnUng. Ixzxi
problem and solved it with a mastery which has not heen approached
unto this day. Here he depicts the effect of a strong beam of sun-
light in a closed room, showing its reflections, dazzles, and contrasts,
and the way in which it brings out the colours of the rich stuffs
it falls upon. Luca Giordano named the Menlnas the 'Theology
of Painting* ; Mengs asserted that theHiladeras seemed to be painted
by pure thought, without the aid of the hand. These pictures are,
indeed, the non plus ultra of painting.
Velazquez founded no school; his art was an emanation of
qualities too personal to be taught to others. His view of nature,
tiie versatile, improvisatore-llke inspiration of his hand could not
be transmitted. Still he trained a few assistants, among whom his
son-in-law, J. B. dblMazo (d. 1687), takes the first place. Mazo*s
portraits and landscapes with accessories are often difficuit to distin-
guish from those of his master. They may usually be recognized by
their more sombre tones, the more confused brush-work, and small
errors in drawing. His talent lay in the delineation of landscapes,
which he peopled with mythological groups. Some are in the manner
of Salvator Rosa. His best piece is the View ofSa/ragossa^ the access-
ories of which are by his father-in-law. The only specimen in the
museum from the brush of Velazquez's emancipated slave Juan
Pa&eja (1606-70) is the Calling of 8t, Matthew, The man who
could produce so admirable a work as this must have painted many
others; but all .have disappeared. The Baptian of Christ, his only
canvas in the old national museum, has been banished to Huesca.
In the Sbcond Half of ths 17th Gbmtu&t Madrid had absorbed
nearly all the talent of the country,* and quite a group of skilful
painters were then at work there. They may be termed the Madrid
School. Their artistic genealogy is of little importance. They owe
their manner, not to their generally obscure teachers, but to the
study of Titian, Rubens, and the other great Italian and Flemish
colourists in the royal residences. A trace of the influence of Velaz-
quez also is perceptible here and there. Almost all possessed the
talent of colour; their touch is dexterous and light; they may
generally be known by their beautiful golden and blue tints, the
latter due to the ultramarine furnished them by the court, Their
drawing is sometimes careless. In their subjects, in their animated
composition, in invention and sensibility they resemble theii Italian
contemporaries; their feeling for the picturesque is on a higher
level and more Flemish than Italian. Few paintings by these
masters are to be seen in the great galleries ; their works, scattered
amid numerous smaller places, are difficult to find, and when found
often difficult to see on account of dust and bad light As the circles
that set the fashion took no interest in the earlier Spanish schools,
many good pictures in the old Fomento Museum were dispersed
Babdbksb's Spain. f
lixxii Painimg. SPANISH ART. 1 7ihand 18th Cent. :
among the provincial museuips; and of many our knowledge is
confined to the lists of their names in Palomino and Oean Bermudez.
A few important works have lately found their way back to Madrid
flrom the former collection of the Infante Sebastian at Pau.
Juan Gabbeno (1614-86) was the successor of Velazquez as
court-painter. His portraits of Charles II., his mother Marianne in
nun's dress, and the second Don John of Austria are akin to those
of Vielazquez in conception, though painted in a somewhat duller
style. They also show suggestions of Van Dyck. They narrate with
sad eloquence the gloomy story of the fall of a royal house and of
the period of the deepest degradation of the Spanish state. No other
painter has so nearly rivalled Rubens's glow of colouring as Matbo
Gbbezo (1635-76), whose masterpiece is in the chapter-house of
PciUncia, Closely akin to him are Jose AntoUnez (1639-76) and tlsca-
Xante (1630-70 ; Miracle of the Loaves and Fishes at Puig, near
Valencia). The dream-like effect of Cerezo's visions sometimes
suggests the school of Rembrandt. The numerous sketchy works of
Francisco Riti (1608-85) have something of the shimmering colour
effect of an Oriental textile fabric. These artists often painted
scenes for the theatre at the Buen Retire, and this practice in-
fluenced their styles. Diego Polo (1620-65) tries to make himself
thoroughly at home in Titian's later manner. Cabexalero (1633-73)
is pithy in modelling and colour. Much promise is contained in the
historical works of JoaS Leonardo (1616-66), who died young. One
of the most scholarly of the group was 8d>a8tian Munoz (1664-90),
who achieved great success in chiaroscuro. Arias Fernandez and
Francisco Camilo are of less importance. The court also employed
flower painters like Arellano,
Only a "few held fast to the severely naturalistic and individu-
alizing method of the great masters of the first half of the century,
with their delight in details. Among these is Antonio Pbbeda
(1599-1669), whose allegorical and ascetic compositions showed
that he was meant for a painter of still-life ; his chief work is his
Lament at P<m. Another is Fbay Juan Rizi (1596-1675), the great
monkish painter of the school, a Oastilian Zurbaran, whose master-
pieces must be sought in San Millan de la CoguUa, The outside of
the choir of the cathedral of Burgos is also adorned with interesting
paintings by him, bearing the genuine Oastilian stamp.
The latest and most eminent of the group is CiiAUDio Oobx«lo
(16B?-93), who recalls the Flemings by the gorgeousness of his
light and colouring and by his somewhat coarse forms. His most
remarkable work is the Festival of the Santa Forma at the Bscorial,
a cabinet-piece of realism. Here we see the perspective of the
sacristy, as well as of the altar which serves as screen, in a kind of
fairy mirror which reflects the figures of the past with a ghostly
actuality. With Coello, who died of grief over the summoning
of Luoa Giordano, the old Spanish school may be said to have ended.
Franrmo Goya. SPANISH ART. Painting. Ixzxiii
Palomino (1653-17!26), who belongs partly to the Bourhon period,
deserYsdly earned the name of the Spanish Vasarl for his *Mu8eo
Pictorico'. Through him Spanish painting entered the lists with
the great ceiling-decorators ] and his paintings on the vaults of the
church of Los Santos Jaanes in Valencia hold their own with the
efforts of Solimena and the Cavaliere del Pozzo.
Thus in the 18th Gbntubt the national art had apparently ab-
dicated. The Bourbon dynasty brought with It the French taste, and
a room at .the museom is devoted to this branch of art ( Van Loo^
Family of Philip V.). At the same time the Spaniard remained
faithful to his desire for the coryphni of the East, whose names
were so blazoned abroad by the trumpet of fame. Lnca Giordano
was followed, in the reign of Charles III., by the antipodes of the
centary : Tiepolo, the prophet of the modems, and Raphael Mengs^
the last shadow of eclectic mannerism (royal palace). The native
artists who played a part by their side, such as JBai/m, Maella,
Zaearia Velazquez^ and Herrera Bamiteuo, now appeal to a very
limited class of students.
The War of Independence showed to an astonished Europe that
centuries of despotism, the reign of favourites, and general mis-
government had still left intact the patriotism and strength of the
Spanish people. Thus the painter Francisco Ooya (1746-1828), at
the end of the 18th cent., once more introduced to us, through the
medium of his painting, that old Spain, the Spain of the great
comedy-writers , which fell a prey to the slow but sure process of
destruction after the restoration of the Bourbons. Goya, indeed,
painted everything, even Church Pietures (sacristy of the cathedral
of Toledo, cathedral of Valencia, San Antonio del Prado), but no
man and no period were less naturally adapted for that kind of work.
No one will look at his religious pieces until he has first become
interested in him on other grounds. In his PariraiU he has, per-
haps, pushed the unvarnished truthfulness of the 17th cent, to the
point of brutality. His Family of OiarUs IV, is a satire, which
suggests and renders credible the most disreputable chronicles of
the secret history of the times. His painting is cold and heavy,
with black as its dominant tone. But we forget this as we stand
before those innumerable improvised figures and scenes in which,
with a rare genius for the typical and the momentary, he has for
ever imprisoned life, both in its most striking and its most trivial
phases, with his brush and his burin. Goya's etchings of Bull Fights,
Scenes of Madrid Life, the Inquisition^ and the series known as ^Los
Caprichos' form the most valued plates in the portfolio of the col-
lector of Spanish scenes. The Prado contains his Cartoons of
Spanish Festivals and Dances, These reveal the satlrio observation of
a Hogarth, the humour of Teniers and his comprehension of papula^
life, and a chaos of forms emanating from the witches' cauldron '
f*
Ixxxlv Painting. SPANISH ART. i9th C^tuty.
a Bosch or a Brueghel. In his Dos de Mayo he has flzed for ever,
with demonic power, two terrihle moments of the War of Independ-
ence ; in the hlood-curdliug Desaatres de la Ouerra he has held the
mirror up to war. At the same time no one has so thoroughly under-
stood the irrepressible and intensive gaiety of the Spaniard's enjoy-
ment of life ill his festive moments.
Goya was followed by the Spanish David, Josi db Madbazo
(1781-1859), the dictator of art at the court of Ferdinand VII. and
the first director of the newly founded picture-gallery. His old-
Roman comedians, with their limbs functioning like semaphores, and
other works of a similar calibre (like the Aparieio% can be compared
at the Prado with the works of Goya and duly laughed over. Spain
was then influenced by the romantic school, and great things were
hoped from Qalofri and Fedtrigo de Madrazo (1816-94). The laUer
afterwards turned his attention to portraits with considerable success.
The Contemporary Spanish School shows that the artistic vein
revealed by the nation in the 17th cent, is by no means exhausted.
The masters who may be grouped together under this title have
been trained in Paris and prefer to paint there or at Rome rather
than at home. Their merits were also first recognized and rewarded
by foreigners. The Academy of San Fernando has little responsibil-
ity fox them, but they are essentially Spanish for all that. Their
best pictures have made the tour of the exhibitions of Europe and
have recalled the almost forgotten Spain to an honourable position
in the world of art. Their strangeness and novelty have met with a
highly favourable reception and criticism. Their large historical
works have proved the continued existence of the old Spanish taste
for the serious, the dignified, the tragic, and even the horrible. They
accord well with the interest in the great national past that is so
carefally cultivated on Spanish soil. The subjects are often sensat-
ional episodes from Spanish history, but scenes from Shakespeare
and other poets are also popular. The most prominent masters of the
day are Francisco Peadilla (b. 1847) and Jos^ Bbnllixjrb (b.
1856). Their technical qualities are often on a pax with those of the
modern French school. The brush-work is almost always marked by
a broad impasto pushed to the verge of brutality or to an affectation
of insolent 'bravura'. The misleading bye-paths are easy to detect.
Many of these painters would feel themselves disloyal to the national
spirit, if they discovered themselves exercising care or industry in
drawing and execution. The most earnest study is devoted to the
archsological apparatus'; costume and artistic accessories, the dress
of the past, are reproduced with knowledge and artistic feeling. The
figures are of more questionable import, while it is obvious that
the faces and expressions form the hardest problem of the painter,
over which he hurries as rapidly as possible.
Another tendency, the fugleman of which was the Catalan Ma-
Contemp. School. SPANISH ART. Painting, Ixxxv
KiANo FoBTUMT (1839-74), concerns itself with representations
of the small details of modem life. It forms a striking contrast to
the above-mentioned school ; the only thing it had in common with
it is the taste for bric-k-brac, easily referred to the Parisian training
of each set of artists. Fortuny possessed a feeling for harmony and
pungency of colouring like that of the weavers and carpet-makers
of Persia and Cashmere. His masterpiece, the BaitU of TeUum^ in
the city-hall of Barcelona, was unfortunately left unfinished. A few
specially gifted masters know how to combine the painting of small
details with that of great historical subjects. Of the Spaniards it
may be asserted that, on the whole, they know better than (e.p.) the
Italians how to make the most of the artistic value of their national
costumes, types, and manners. They are also irresistibl/ attracted
by the fashionable elegance of the 'capital of the world'; Paris is
their Mecca. Some modem Spanish painters move with success in
this world of. frivolity. — The church goes empty-handed away f^om
the modem painter, if we overlook the common pieces seen in the
sacristy. A collection of modem works purchased by the state has
been begun in the new national museum.
Engliah readers who wish to follow up this subject may consult Sir
William Stirling- Maxiceirs 'Annals of the Artists of Spain' (new edit.,
London, 1891) and Sir Edmond W HeadTi 'Handbook of the History of the
Spanish and Freneh Schools of Paintine ^ (London, 1848). 'Les Musifes d'Es-
pagne', by L. ViardQt (Srd ed., Paris« 1860), is alsQ u»eful. Oomp. p. xxzvn.
SUMMARY.
Architeetura. — Period of the Roman Empire ; Yisi- Page
gothic period (414-711) ; beginning of the new Christian
kingdom of Asturias (718 et seq.) xli
Romanesque style (ll-12th cent.); Gothic style (end
of 12th to beginning of 16th cent) xli-xliii
Arab and Moorish buildings; Mud^jar or Moorish-
Christian style xliii, xliv
Renaissance : Beginnings, Herrera StyU^ Baroque 8iyU xliv, xlv
Seulptiure. — Remains down to the year 1000 ... xlv
Romanesque sculptures of the 11-1 3th centuries . . xlv, xlvi
Northem French Influence in the second half of the
1 3th and in the 14th cent (especially figures of the Virgin
and tombs) xlvi-xlviii
Italian influences in the 15th century zlviii
Colonies of northem(Netherlandi8h and German) artists
in the 16th century xlvlii,xlix
Large decorative works of the late-Gothio style (end
of 16th century) xlix
Influence of the Italian Early Renaissance from the
end of the 16th cent onwards; Plateresque Style ^ espe-
THE BASQUE PROVINCES.
e. West Quarters of the City. Plaia de Oriente.
Royal Palace and Armerfa. Marine Museum. Calle
Mayor. Plaza Mayor 94
f. South -West Quarters of the City. San Francisco
el Grande; Calle de Toledo. Rastro 104
g. South-East Quarters of the City. Calle and Paseo
de Atocha 106
h. Environs of Madrid 108
9. Excursions from Madrid 108
a, Escorial 108
&. Segovia and La Granja 117
c. Aranjuez 123
d. Toledo 126
10. From Madrid to l^aragossa 161
From Guadalajara to Trillo; to Oaenca, 153. — From Alcu-
neza to Soria, 156. — From Alhama de Aragon to the
Monasterio de Piedra, 156. — From Galatayud to Da-
roca, 157.
The Basque Provinces.
The Ckmtahrian Range, abutting on the Pyrenees near the river
Bida$80ay runs thence in an almost due W. direction, forming two
parallel chains, the lower of which Is next the coast. It attains
an almost Alpine elevation in the snow -clad Penaa de Europa
(8745 ft.) in Asturias, and in Galicia is finally dissipated in a
number of low hills. The E. part of this range is included in th«
three Basque provinces (Las Provincias Vatcongadas) of Ouipiizcoa,
Vitcaya (Biscay), and Atava, with an area of 2780 sq. M. and 510,400
inhabitants. The highest point within these provinces Is the Pentt
Oorvea (5015 ft.) in Vizcaya.
The prevalent winds in this coast- district blow from the N.
and N.W. and are abundantly charged with the moisture of the
ocean. It is comparatively seldom that these give place to the S.
wind, which resembles the Fohn of Switzerland and is cold in
v^inter and dry and warm in summer. The whole district is richly
clothed with chestnuts, oaks, and other deciduous trees. The hill
slopes are covered with ferns, the meadows remain ftesh and green
even at midsummer, and the lower grounds display groves of fruit
trees and walnuts. The vine is also diligently cultivated, and the
native wine (chacoli), though inferior to the more generous vin-
tages of the Ebro and S. Spain, enjoys considerable local popularity.
The rivers are short but generally copious, and some of them (such
as the Bidassoa and Ntroion) are navigable at high tide even by sear-
going vessels. The climate is so mild that oranges, palms, arau-
,carias, and other sub-tropical trees thrive in a few sheltered nooks
THE BASQUB PROYINOBS. 3
of the riyei-TaUeyB ; but the general character of this picturesqve
district is so thoxoagbly that of Central Europe, that it is easy to
fancy oneself among the lower parts of the Bavarian or Austrian Alps.
The SaiquM (Euakaldanacy Spanish VatcongadosJ^ who occupy
these provinces and also the adjoining parts of Navarre (Baztan val-
ley) and the N.W. spurs of the Pyrenees as far as Bayonne and the
Gave d'Oloxon, claim proudly that they «re the oldest race in Europe ;
and indeed, as the only and almost unmixed descendants of the pre-
Aryan aborigines of the Iberian Peninsula, they are well entitled
to regard themselves as unique. Their language (Eu9karaj Span. El
VoKuinte), which still survives throughout Spain in numerous
geographical names, is wholly unintelligible to the modem Span-
iard, and is stUl in many respects a riddle to the student in spite
of the efforts of William von Humboldt and numerous succeeding
Bcholais. The difficulty of its scientiflc investigation is enhanced
by the fact that the Basque literary monuments are very scanty,
consisting of a few reUgious writings, some popular poetry (mainly
of an epic character, like the Canto de lot Cantfibroa^ published by
Humboldt), dirges (ertMiac), and dancing songs (zortzicot) t. The
Basque dances, which are to be seen in the villages on holidays and
festivals, are of very early origin and totally different from those in
other parts of the peninsula. The music is furnished by the village
pipers, who play a kind of clarinet (d^miyaj and also beat time on
a drum. These viUage-festivals afford the best opportunity of study-
ing the natives themselves. The men are strong and well-built;
the women, who are also broad-shouldered, are often firesh and
pretty when young, but are on the whole inferior to other Spanish
women in beauty and grace. The features, with the pointed chin
and prominent, curved nose, are strongly marked. The prevalent
brown hair, often quite light in the mountain- vil lages , forms a
strange contrast to the usual raven locks of the Spaniard. The local
costumes have, as in other parts of Spain, largely disappeared. Al-
most the only survivals are the bright-coloured kerchiefs of the
women, especially in Yizcaya, and the dark-blue Boina of the men,
a kind of biretta or cap of wool, also worn by the French Basques
and lately introduced into the French army as the headgear of the
. Alpine chasseuiTft and some other regiments.
In the larger towns, such as San Sebastian, Bilbao, and Yltoria,
the local peculiarities are gradually disappearing, though the national
game of jptfioto(comp. p.xxix)is still zealously cultivated. In Bilbao,
in Alava, and in La$ Encartaciones, or the portion of Yizcaya to the
t Tke student should consult W. von Bumboldt^ Priifung der Unter-
SQchungen iiber die tTrbewoliner Spaniens (Berlin, 1821); Larrcanendi^
Bieeioaario trilingfie del castellano, bascuense, y latin (San Sebastian,
17tf) ; Vtm Sif»i Dictionnaire basque-francais (Paris, 1878) } Arturo Campion,
Gramitica euskara; and Prince Lucien Bonaparte, La Langue Basque et les
Langues Finnoises. See also the excellent article on the Basques (by
Thos. Dcwidson) in the last edition of 'Chambers's Encyclopaedia' (1888),
1*
4 THE BASQUE PROVINCES.
W. of the Nervion, the Basque language itself has largely given way
to Spanish and is seldom heard even among the lower classes. The
•case, however, is entirely different in the kernel of the Basque pro-
vinces, Guiptizcoa and W. Vizcaya. Here the peasant clings per-
tinaciously to all his local customs ; here, as in the days of yore, he
still lives on his solitary mountain or valley farm (caserCo), of which
he is himself the landlord arid master ; his house is built iri the old
fashion of stone, with broad, tiat tifed roofs; he still, to a large
extent, breaks up the stony soil with the laya^ a kind of clumsy
mattock t, instead of with' a plough, and he still climbs the steep-
est hills and rides to market in a heavy two-wheeled ox-cart, with
an elaborately carved yoke covered by a sheepskin.
The people of the Basque provinces stand on a much higher level
of civilisation than the peasantry of the rest of Spain, and their
means of communication are proportionately better. Excellent high-
roads and a number of small local railways facilitate trade and the
successful exploitation of the huge deposits of iron ore in Vizcaya
and the other mineral treasures of the district. The violent moun-
tain-torrents are bridled and forced to use their strength in the service
of industry ; and the universal activity, diligence, and comfort find
their only parallel on Spanish soil in Catalonia»
The HisToEY of the Basque provinces is a record of the deter-
mined efforts of the people to preserve their immemorial liberties.
A passionate love of independence has been the main impulse of
the Basque ever since the days, when, backed by the ragged nature
of his country, he aided the remnants of the Visigoths to stem the
tide of the Moorish invasion, or beat back the ambitious hordes of
Franks who entered Spain from the north. He is now, as of yore,
^Oantaber serd ^iomitus catend\ The incorporation of the provinces
with Leon and Navarre, and afterwards with Castile (1202), was
not accomplished until their FuSroBj or special privileges, had
been solemnly ratified. These futfros, of which we possess a list (fbr
Vizcaya) dating from 1342, provided for a republican constitution
in the three provinces and for immunity from taxes and military
service. They survived all the storms of the ages, until the Carlist
sympathies of the Basques in our own times brought disaster in
their train. The Basque volunteers played a conspicuous part in
both the Carlist wars, a few, as Chapdgorris, donning the red boina
and fighting on the constitutional side, but most of them, as Chapel-
churls, wearing the white cap of Don Carlos. The end o€ the first
war saw a slight curtailment of their privileges; and in 1876, on the
conclusion of the second war, the victorious Alfonso XII. abrogated
almost the whole of the fu^ros, introducing the salt and tobacco
monopolies into the provinces and forcing them to submit to the
hated Quinta, or compulsory military service. The Basque soldiers,
t It is said that a strong man will often use two of these at once,
one in each hand ('Spain', by Rev. Wenticorih Webster).
OLD AND NE.W CASTILE. 5
wearing blue blouses and red trousers and caps, still form but a
small band and are mainly employed in the service of the custom-
house or to help the Spanish Guardia Civil (p. xxiv) as the country
constabulary. In Guipuzcoa they are named MiqueUteSy in Alava
and Yizeaya AfmoiMS. The local government has also been as-
similated to that of the other provinces. The estates meet in the
Falacio dt la Diputacidn Ptovincial of the three provincial capitals,
under the presidency of a Qobtmad&r CivU appointed by the national
government; and their decrees require confirmation by the Ministry
of the Interior at Madrid,
Old and Hew Castile.
The traveller usually thiuks of Spain as a country with a mild
climate, luxuriant vegetation, a lively population, and ample relics
of Moorish architecture. This conception, however, is realised only
in the S. and £. portions of the peninsula and in the exceptionally
formed valley of the £bro, and even there only in part. Almost
the whole of the interior of Spain, amounting to at least three
fourths of the peninsula, is a bleak and often arid land, with few
traces of picturesqueness or beauty. The central district embracing
Estremadura and the old kingdoms of Leon and the Castiles forms,
in particular, a plateau with an average elevation of 2500 ft., which
resembles N. Africa or the steppes of Russia. Alexander von Hum-
boldt compared Spain with the tableland of Mexico. In each case
the higher Tierra Fria, or inner plateau, is surrounded by a lower
and flatter coast -district, the Titrra CcUiente; in both countries
mountain-ranges or isolated peaks rise above the central plateau,
while deep gorges lead down from it to the coast The whole of the
interior plateau of Spain may be thought of as a large tart or pie
with a raised and jagged edge, or as a conglomeration of several
such tarts. The kingdoms of Leon and Old Castile form one of these
tarts, its raised edge on the N. being formed by the Cantabrian Mts.,
on the Si. by the Guadarrama Mts., the Sierra de Gredos, and the
Sierra de G^a ; another, to the S. of these mountains, consists of
New Castile and Estremadura, bounded on the S. by the Sierra
Morena. In their natural boundaries Old Castile and Leon correspond
to a former vast fresh-water lake, now constituting the district drained
by the Douro (Du^ro). New Castile and Estremadura correspond to a
similar lake between the Sierras de Gredos and Guadarrama on the
N. and the Sierra Morena on the S., and now drained by the Tagus
(Tajo) and the Guadiana ; or, rather, to two lakes within these limits,
separated from each other by the Montes de Toledo and the Sierra de
Ouadalupe. It is, indeed, patent even to the untrained eye that
these plateaux of Central Spain occupy the beds of former lakes.
6 OLD AND NEW CASTILE.
Near the mountains the ground often swells into new hilly plateaux,
the so-called ParameraSj notorious for the rawness of their cli-
mate, almost uninhabited, and strewn with erratic Mocks deposited
by the ancient glaciers. The traveller who expected to feast his
eyes on groves of oranges and olives gazes with astonishment at
these interminable Tierras de CampOy with their com fields and
scanty vineyards ; he may journey for hours without seeing a tree
except a few meagre black poplars in the valley of some dried-up
brook.
With few exceptions, Central Spain possesses no forests, and
isolated trees grow only where they can be artificially watered. The
Castilian peasant is an enemy of trees because they give shelter to
the small birds that eat his grain. No tree shades his house, which
is built of unbaked bricks (ad^ba) and shares the dusty hue of the
ground on which it stands. The towns situated on the sun-burnt
hills of New Castile look like stony growths from the arid soil.
The whole scene is reduced to a weird and gloomy tone of brownish
gray. In La Mancha (p. 276) there are extensive districts wbere
nothing exists that can properly be termed a tree, and thousands
of the natives live and die without ever seeing a tree. According to
the native proverb, the lark has to bring his provisions vdth him
when he visits such treeless and sparsely peopled districts as those
which formed the scene of the adventures of Cervantes' famous hero,
the Ingenioso Hidalgo de la Mancha.
Large tracts of these tablelands , the so-called Detpohladoi and
Dehesas, are actually deserts , and nearly the whole of them would
be so were it not for the system of Irbigation. It was from the
Moors that the Spaniards learned how to convert this dura teUus
of the Romans into a fertile landscape by the help of artificial
watering. The Moorish works still subsist, to excite the astonishment
and admiration of the traveller. In the more favoured districts the
scanty rainfall percolates at once through the surface layers of the
ground, but is prevented from sinking deeply by a subsoil of tena-
cious loam. The water thus arrested moistens the superincnmb-
ent soil by a constant process of evaporation, and renders possible
the growth of abundant harvests. Among the districts of this kind
are the large grain-growing plains of Palencia, ValladoUd, and
Zamora in Leon, and the Mesa (table) de Oeana in New Castile.
The ground here always seems to be dry, but the crops of wheat,
rye, and saffron draw sufficient moisture from the subsoil and pro-
duce abundant fruit. The seed is sown in parallel furrows in order
to leave room for the destruction of the weeds in spring. These
Tierras de Campo y SeeanoSj which have so'little value on the coasts
of Valencia and Alicante, are therefore rightly regarded in Castile
as Tierras de gran Uevar, or tracts of great returns. In other
districts the chief crop is the GarhtmtOj or chick-pea, which Lin-
naeus named eicer arietinum on account of its resemblance^to the
OLD AND NEW CASTILE. 7
head of a ram. This forms the main ingredient of the ptieheto, the
present representative of the well-known oUa podrida.
When the ground is unable to bear any farther crop, it is used
as pasture for sheep, large flocks of which migrate in summer from
Estremaduia (p. iii) to the uplands of Castile. In the few forests
swine are fed on the acorns, and their sugar-cured hams, though
far inferior to those of the Sierra Nevada and Galicla, enjoy a con-
siderable reputation among the Castilians.
The methods and implements of Castilian agriculture recall those
of classical antiquity and of the East. The peasant-farmer (labrador)
turns up the soil with the Alamo negro ^ a rough, home-made wooden
plough , and leaves the lion's share of the work to the Sol eriadoTf
or 'fertilizing sun'; in his threshing-floor he separates his grain with
a simple roller (trUla) or treads it out by the feet of oxen. Strongly
opposed to all Innovations, he sits on his clod, wrapped in his tra-
ditional dignity (grandeza) and deeming no man his superior save
the king ; his frank independence knows no limit, but his hospitality
is great and his word is as good as his bond. If one diverges a
little from the beaten track it is still easy to And such characters as
Bojas has described in his 'Del Key abajo Ninguno' ('Garcfa del
CastaSiar*), Moreto in his 'Yaliente Justiciero^ or (best of all) Clcil-
deron in tiie 'Alcalde de Zaiamtfa*. It was peasants such as these
and the shepherds of Estremadura that produced the ConquUtadores^
who conquered powerful kingdoms with a handful of men; they
were the raw material of the soldiers who terrorized Europe in the
middle ages and beat back the French invasion in more recent times.
For the Spaniard is always ready to cultivate and to defend his
native soil ; aratro H ente, to-day with the plough, to-morrow with
the sword.
The extension of the railway-system has, of course, made great
changes here as elsewhere. In former times the peasant of Castile
and Estremadura could not dispose of his grain, as there were practic-
ally no means of transport; now he began to export it to Portugal
and other foreign lands. In 1873 Spain exported about 1^0 miUion
quarters of wheat, while importing only about 44,000 quarters.
The appearance of the phyldxera in FrandB opened out a new market
for Spanish agriculture. The farmer, who used often to let his
wine run o£F on the ground for lack of casks and purchasers, now
converted a great part of his corn-fields into vineyards, and in 1891
supplied France with 'vino comun' to the value of 248 million francs
(9,920,000^.). This outlet has, however, been seriously hampered
by the recent protective policy of France and by the increase of
wine-growing in Algeria, so that the value of the export of Spanish
vino comun in 1894 was only 60 million francs , of which about
two-thirds went to France. The farmer has therefore had to turn
his attention once more to the comparatively neglected cultivation f
cweals (export in 1894 only 200,000 qrs., import 268 miUion qiE
8 OLD AND NEW CASTILE.
The History of the kingdoms of Leon and Caetile is .substan-
tially that of Spain. These lands always formed the *rob,ur Hispa-
niae', or, as theCastilians themselves termed it, ^elcorazon y caatillo':,
Hhe heart and stronghold', of the peninsula. After PelayQ, had suc-
ceeded in maintaining Astnrias against the Moors, the conquest of the
S. part of the central plateau was only a question of time. Ledn, so
named after the Seventh Roman Legion , a^opg with the important
mountain-town of Zamora, was the fljrst part to fall into the hands
of the Christians, and afterwards continued to subsist as an inde-
pendent Reino alongside the niore powerful kingdom of Oastile, of
which Burgos was the focus. The second great stroke was the capture
of Toledo (p. 126), which led to the formation of a New Castile, and the
battle of Las Navas de Toloia (p. 302). The conquest of the penin-
sula was not , however , completed until the two gceat kingdoms of
Castile and Aragon were united, through the marriage of Ferdinand
and Isabella, under the sceptre of these 'Catholic Kings'.
The name of Castile is derived from the numerous castles (caatU-
lo8) erected as defences against the Moors. The castle of Qormax^
on the Douro, is a good example of these fortresses, while the walls
of Avila (p. 48), with their semicircular towers (cubes) , afford a
clear idea of the town-fortifications of the times. The character and
history of Castile are incarnated in the Cid (p. 26), the , great
champion of the Christians against the Moors, and in Philip 11,^
one of the most national of Spanish rulers. It is no mere accident
that the Escorial (p. 108) of the latter stands on the dividing line
between the two Castiles. After the expulsion of the Moors , the
defeat of the Comuneros (p. 63), and the abrogation of the Aragon-
ese fu^ros (p. 162), the chivalry of Old Castile was succeeded by
the religious and political unity of which the capital of Madrid , in
the heart of New Castile, was the outward expression as the 'corte'
of the new absolute monarchy.
1. From (Hendoye) Inin vitl Zumarraga, Miranda de
Ebroy Bnrgos, and Valladolid to Medina del Campo
(Lisbon^ Madrid),
269 M. Railway (Caminot de Hierro del Norte) in llV2-19V4brs. (fares
49 p. 70, 87 p. 30, 22 p. 40 c.). There arc one express train (two in mid-
summer) and two ordinary trains daily. To (3^ M.) Madrid the express
takes 178/4 hrs., the ordinary trains 23-27V2 brs. (fares 72 p. 60, 54 p. 46,
32 p. 70 c). A ^ Train de Luxe" (Sur £xpreso), consisting of first-class
carriages at one-and-a-half the ordinary fares, runs from (Paris) Iran to
Hadrid (comp. p. 45) on Tues. and Sat. (in the reverse direction on Thurs.
and Sun.), taking 151/2 brs. (to Medina lOi/s hrs.)- A similar train runs
from (Paris) Irun to Lisbon (comp. p. 464) on Thurs. and Sun. (returning
from Lisboii on Wed. and Sat.), taking 27^4 hrs. The additional fare for
a sleeping berth on the ordinary express from Irun to Madrid is 23 p.
Carriages are changed and the custom-house examination takes place at
^ritn on the journey to Madrid and at Eendaye on the journey to Paris.
^ stations have good restaurants and ^bureaux de change'. The only halt
. IRl-N. 7. RouU, 9
for meals between Inm and Medina is made at Mircmda. — For the Spanish
railways, railway-time, and railway-restaurants, see pp. xv, xvi. One of
the time-tables there mentioned should be obtained as soon as possible.
Hendaja (*Qrand Hdtelde France; *Bailway Restaurant)^ Span.
Endaya^the last French station, lies on the right bank of the Bidassoa^
whkh here expands and forms a kind of bay (ria). As we start, we
see to the right, beyond theBidassoa, Fuenterrabid (see below) and
Cape Higuir; in front is the plain of Irun^ with the lofty Pena de
Aya (p. 10). To the left, in the river, lies the neutral Isle of Pheaa-
antSj also called the lie de Conference since the meeting of Cardinal
Mazarin and Count de Haro, the plenipotentiary of Philip IV. (1659).
Farther on, to the S.E., is the Ermita de San Marcial (see below).
We cross the river by the Bidassoa Bridge^ 145yds. in length, the
middle of which marks the frontier of Spain, where we enter the
province of Guipuzcoa.
IY4M. IrUB. — Hotels (comp. p. xx). Fonda dk Vabconia^ EohxK'
|QU£^ Sait Joan; Istueta. — Railway Restaurant.
Tramwat into the town 10 c, each article of luggage 10 c.
Jrfm^ a charmingly situated and comparatively modern town,
with 5200inhab., alTords opportunity for many attractive excursions.
The church of Nuestra Senora de Juncal^ an unadorned Renaissance
edifice with a nave 140 ft. long and 92 ft. wide, contains an over-
decorated reredos (retahlo) and several tombs, among them that of
Admiral Pedro di Zubiaur. In the picturesque Plaza Mayor or Pla%a
de la ConatiiuciSny as the principal square in almost every Spanish
town is now named in memory of the outcome of the long revolu-
tionary struggle, stands the Casa Consistorialj or town-hall, erected
in the 17th century. A fine view is obtained from the Ermita de San
Marcial, near the town.
Those who wish to add a glimpse of the departed glories of heroic
Spain to their enjo3a&ent of the green and smiling landscape should not
omit to visit FaeBtcnrakia (3X. ; tramway from Irun station in 15min., fare
26 c.). The little frontier-town (900 inhab.), though repeatedly besieged,
bombarded, and taken by storm, still preserves its quaint mediaeval char-
acter. The Principal Churchy Gothic in style, has had its exterior modern-
ized. The CastiUo, overlooking the Bidassoa, was erected by Sancho
Abarca^ King of Kavarre, in Wt\ the more modern portion, abutting on
the plaza, is known as the Palacio de Juana la Loca (p. 63). The palace
of Count Torrealta and some others are also interesting. Tbe Archive del
Municipio contains valuable documents. Fuenterrabia is nearly 40 M. from
BoBcesvalles (p. 165), so that there is some poetic exaggeration in Scotfs
'a blast of that dread horn, on Fontarabian echoes borne\ Milton also alludes
to Fontarabia (Paradise Lost^ I. 587). — To the N. of Fuenterrabia lie tbe
fishing-village of La Madrina and the Cabo de Bigudr (French Figuier)^
the latter commanding an extensive view of the coast. — It was nearly
opposite Fuenterrabia that the Duke of Wellington effected the passage
of the Bidassoa (Oct. 8th, 1813) in the face of the French under Soult, who
occupied a strongly fortified position on the right bank.
A plea«ant walk may be taken from Fuenterrabia to the N.W. to the
Ermita de Quadalupe, with the Fuerte de Quadalupe (no sketching allowed ;
fine view), and thence along the bare sandstone ridge of the Jaizquivil
(2230 ft.), surmounted by the dilapidated Fuerte Enrique, with constant
views of the Gantabrian Hts. to the left and the ocean to the right, to
(3-4Jhrs.) Pasajes (p. 10), which lies far below.
10 Route!, SAN SEBASTIAN. iromlrvn
The Pefla de Aya (French Les TroU Courormet; 3246 ft.). a conifipicnoafl
and nigged mass of granite, upheaved throagh the surrounding calcareoas
slate, rises to the 8. of Irun, whence it may be ascended in ^4hrs. Rid-
ing is practicable as far as the (S^^hrs.) mountain-pasture known as the
Pradera de Lai$cmgu. The ♦View, deservedly celebrated, embraces the
Gantabrian Mts. of Navarre on the £. and S., the valleys of Irun and Oyar-
zun, San Sebastian, the ocean, and the French coast as far as Biarritz.
Beyond Iran the train runs to the S.W., skirting (right) the bleak
Jaizquivil (p. 9) and traversing a picturesque hilly district with
frait- trees and caserfos (p. 4). The pass of Oainchuriaqueta is
penetrated by a tunnel, ly^ M. Lezo - Benterfa ^ the station for
Lezo, with a wonder-working image of the Saviour, and for Renieria
(p. 13), on the Oyarzun, Numerous factories are now passed.
The train crosses the Oyarzun by a narrow girder-bridge (where
heads should not be protruded from the windows), passes by a
tunnel through a peninsula, with the lead-foundry of Capuchinos,
and reaches the beautiful and almost land-locked ^'BtLj of Patajes,
which resembles an Alpine lake. In the 16-18th cent, this was
the starting-point of the hardy Basque whalers, and Lafayette took
ship here for America in 1776. The fishing-village of (9V2 M.)
Pasajes^ at the mouth of the Oyarzun (see above), is divided into San
Juarij on the right bank, and San Pedro and Ancho, on the left, the
last containing the railway-station, the custom-house, and large
warehouses for wine. To the S. are the forts of San Marcos and
Choritoqueta. — Pasajes is most conveniently visited by the tramway
from San Sebastian; a boat may be taken to the Fuerte de Santa
Isabelj on the E. side of the narrow entrance to the harbour.
Route along the Jaizquivil to Fuenterrahia^ see p. 9.
The train runs along an embankment skirting the W. arm of the
bay and intersects several hills. To the left is Alza; to the right
rises the Monte VUa, at the foot of which, on the bay of Zurriolay
lies the Barrio de Oros, the E. suburb of (12 M.) San StboBtidfi.
San SebaBtiin. — Railway Stations. 1. Eitaddn del Nwrte (PI. 6, 3 ;
restaurant), on the right bank of the Urum^a, 72 M. from the t.own, for
the trains of the Northern Railway. — 2. Eitaddn de Zctrauz, in the Barrio
de Amara, for the local line to Zarauz (p. 13). — At the first of these
the traveller will find the omnibus general (p. xvi), the hotel-omnibuses
(fare in each 50 c., baggage under 25 lbs. 25 c., trunk 50 c.), cabs, and
tramways.
Hotels (comp. p. xx ; generally crowded in summer and prices raised).
*CoNTiNENTAL (PI. a*, F, 3), Pasco de la Concha beautifully situated, with
lift; *HoTEL DE LoNDRES (PI. b; F, 3), Avcuida de la Libertad, with
electric light, baths, and garden, but no view of the sea; 'Ingles (PI. c;
F, 3), Paseo de la Concha, with fine view, closed in winter; these three
of the first class, pension 10-20 p. — Fonda Ezodbba (PI. d ; G, 2), prettily
situated in the Paseo de la Zumola, Spanish, pens. 10 p. •, Hot. de Fkakcb
(PI. e ; G, 2), Calle de Caminos 2, well spoken of; Central, Calle Mayor 1,
pens. 10 p., well spoken of; Hot. Bebdejo (PI. f ; G, 3), Calle de Guetaria 7,
commercial. — Private Apartment* about 1000 -3^300 p. for the season.
Sestaurants (comp. p. xxi). Mallorquina^ Plaza Guiptizcoa, cor. of the
Calle Churruca ; Urbana^ Plain Guipuzcoal5; Oriental^ Plaza Vieja; S%m>-
mer Restaurant at the Rompeolas (p. 12).
io Medina d, C. SAN SEBASTIAN. K Route. 1 1
Oaf^s (oomp. p. xxil). Caf4 Suito f de ta Marina^ in tbe Alameda ^
Oteizoy by ibe AJderdi-eder P»rk^ Oriental^ see p. 10; Europa^ opposite
the Casino. — Beer Garden : Gerveceria Alemma^ in the suburb of Gros \
Cerweeeria de Strcubyrgo^ in the suburb of Antigua, at the tramway terminus.
Oab per drive 2, per hr. 8p.) outside tbe town 5 p. for tbe 1st hr.,
3>/s p. for each addiiional hour.
uectrie Tramway*. 1. From the Plata Vieja (PI. F, 2) tu Peuajet (40 c.)
and RenieHa (eOe.)< with a braneh-line to the E$taei6n d€l Norte (1& c). —
2. From the FUua VUJu to Antlguo (PI. G, 4; 20 e.).
Post OfBca iCorrtOy PI. F, 3; comn. p. xviii), in the Palaeio de la Di*
putacidn. — TeUfrapb Offtca (PI. F, 3), Calle de Fnenterrabia 24.
Ooneertt. Bands play in the Alameda at noon on Sundays and holidays
in winter, and at noon and 9 p. m. during the season; on the Casino
Terrace at noon, 6 p.m., and 9 p. m. in the season, AAer the evening
coneert there is a ball in the Casino (adm. 3 p.).
Clabt. Oram Catino Xa$onen»e^ in the Casino, 1st floor ; Club Cantahrieo^
aboTe tbe Cafd Oteisa (see aboTe).
Thoatre (comp. p. xxvi). Teatro FiHmeipml (PI. F, 2). Calle Mayor.
Ball Oamaa (Jtieaos de Rfhta; comp. p. xxix). Jai-Alai^ in the Camino
de Pasajes, to tbe E. of the Gerveceria Alemana (see above), with room
for 2000 spectators; Bcff-/«f, in the Barrio de Salamanca.
Bull ng bta (comp. p. xxvi) four times in August in the Plata de Tor^e
(PI. G, 8), opposite the £staci6n del Norte.
Batba in the Catino, in the Perla del Oeeano (PI. E, F, 3), and at the
Plueaderia (PI. F, 2). -- Boa Baths at the Pfapa de Baflot (P\. E, F, 3\
25 c. with towBls fiO c.) and tbe Pla^ da Anligw (P). B, G, 3, 4).
Pbysieiana. Dr. Vich, French, Hdt. de Londres ; Dr. Ucelaifeta^ Plaza de
Guipuzcoa 15; Dr. ZargiUta^ Calle Reina Regente 8; Dr. Morair^ Avenida 12.
-- Gbeiniata. Carrion, Calle Hemani ; Tomero, Plaza de Ouipuxcoa.
ODMoUt«i. British Vice -Consul, MeUor Nutty Calle Ouetaria 8. —
U. 8. Consular Agent, Julian de Salazary Calle de Fuenterrabia 3.
Bookaallora. Praneiteo Jomei, Alameda 15; R. Nereean^ Elcano 7.
Banka. Branch of the Bemeo de BtpeMa., Calle Garibay ; Joei Brunei A Co.,
Avenida de la Libertad 20. — Hoaoy Obancan. Caratco, Alaaaeda, next
door io tbe Casino; Landaberea y Eckeverria^ Alameda 21.
Ban Sebaatidn, tbe ancient Basque Hizurun or Ea$o (?) and now
tbe flourishing capital of Guipuzcoa, is tbe most fashionable seaside
resort in S^aln and one of the most beautifully situated watering
plaees In £iiiope. It is the flummer-tesidence of the Queen-Regent
Maria Christina and of the young King Alfonso XIII. Pop., Incl. the
soharbs, '90,000.
Tbe old town, reduced to ashes in 1813 and since then almost
wholly rebuilt, lies at the S. base of the Monte VrguUj a rocky is-
land now connected with the mainland, between the mouth of the
Vrumia on the £. and the hay of La Concha on the W. The new
town, which we reach from the Estacion del Norte (PI. G, 3) by
crossing the Puente de Santa Catalina (PI. G, 2), arose after the
removal of tbe city-walls in 1866 and occupies the flat sandy penin-
sula between Mte. Urgull and the mainland. The old town is closely
built and densely populated ; the new town is marked by its wide
streets and handsoihe promenades.
On the E., below the Urumtfa bridge, the town is bounded by
the *Pai60 de la Zurriola (PI. G, 2), a spacious quay, aflfording
beaatiftal views. In the middle of the quay, surrounded by flower
beds, ie the * Monument of Antonio de OquendOj the Basque com-
12 Route 1. SAN SEBASTIAN. From Irun
mander of the Spanish fleet in the wars with the Netherlands in 1631
and 1639. The monument, designed hy Marcial de Aguirre, con-
sists of a bronze statue, on a pedestal adorned with trophies, reliefs,
and allegorical figures of oourage and seamanship. At the N. end of
the quay, adjoining the Mte. Urgull, are the Rompeolas (restaurant,
see p. 10), washed continually by the surf of the Bay of Biscay.
The Old Town contains few objects of interest. In its centre
■lies the Plata de la Con8tituci6n (PI. F, 2), surrounded by arcades
and formerly the scene of the bull - fights. It contains the Casa
Consistorialj built In 1828. To the £., near the Pas^o de la Zur-
riola, are the Mereado de la Brecha (PI. E, 2 ; meat and vegetable
market), the Pescaderia (PI. F, 2; fish-market), and the church of
SanVieenU (PI. F, 1), a Gothic building of 1507, with a curious W.
porch and tower, massive buttresses, and some excellent statues by
Ambrosio de Bengoechea (p. Ivili). Thence we proceed to the S.W.,
through the Calle del Treintaiuno de Agosto, to the church of Santa
Marid {PL E, 2), a handsome baroque structure (1743-64).
The focus of the New Town is the beautiful ♦Plaza de Gui-
p6zcoa (PL F, 2), with its luxuriant vegetation. On its S.W. side
rises the stately Palacio de la Dipiitaoi6n, with the finely equipped
rooms of the Provincial Diet and various provincial authorities
(adm. on application to one of the miqtbeletes or policemen; fee
V2-I p.). On the staircase is a fine stained-glass window, designed
by Eckena and made at Munich, representing King Alfonso VIII.
confirming the fu^ros of Quipuzcoa in 1202.
The town is traversed in its whole breadth by two wide streets
shaded with trees : the Avenida de la Libertad (PI. F, G, 3, 2) and
the * Alameda or BovXevard (PI. F, 2), the latter occupying the site
of the former town -walls. The Avenida leads straight from the
Urumea bridge to the *Coneha, a noble bay bounded by the Mte.
Urgull on the N.E. and the Mte, Igueldo on the W., while the small
island of Sar^ta Clara shelters its outlet on the N.W. Its beach is
excellently adapted for bathing and is crowded in the season with
thousands of bathers. Some of the largest hotels face the bay
(comp. p. 10), and at Antiguo (tramway, see p. 11) is the un-
pretending Palacio Real (PI. C, 4), built in 1889-92 for the royal
family on the site of the Convento del Antiguo, which was burned in
the first Carlist war. In the Avenida (No. 40) is the American
International School for Girls (Inatituto Intemaiionaljy which has
done much for the higher education of women in Spain. — At the
W. end of the Alameda rises the imposing Casino (PL F, 2), built
by Luis Aladren and connected with the Paseo de la Concha by the
grounds of the Parque de Alderdieder (PL F, 2, 3). — To the N.W.
of the Casino are the Aquarium (adm. 50 c.) and the small Harbour
(Puerto; PL E, 2).
The Monte Urgull (380 ft.), a mass of sandstone rock present-
ing an abrupt face on every side, may be ascended in about ^^ hr.
io Medina d, C. tOLOSA. >. itoute. 1 3
(Tiewfl). Easy footpaths, reacbed by the steps on the W. side of
the ehnrch of Santa Maria (p. 12), wind up the hill in wide curves.
On the N. side, halfway up, are the graves of the British officers
who fell here in 1813 and 1836. The summit of the hill is crowned
by the CasUUo de la MotOy which was occupied by the French under
General Bey in the Spanish War of Liberation in 1813 and not
surrendered till the town had been captured and burned down
(Aug. Slst) by the British, Spanish, and Portuguese troops under
Graham. The excesses of the victorious soldiery on this occasion
form a lasting disgrace to the British army. In 1835-36 the town
and fortress were beleaguered by the Garlist forces and heroically
defended by the citizens with the aid of some British auxiliaries. —
Other interesting excursions may be made by boat to the island of
Santa Clara (PI. 0, 2), with its small lighthouse and restaurant ; by
Toad to the Mte, Jgueldo (785 ft.), with the old lighthouse and an
extensive view ; and by railway or tramway to the Bay of Pcuajes
(p. 10) and BenitrCd (p. 10).
Fkom 8ah Sbbastiam to Zasaoz, 16 M., braneh-railway in i-ii/4 hr.
(farea 8 p., 2 p., 1 p. 20 c.). — Zanns (Grand Hotel) is a picturesquely
jitnated iMthiBg-plaee with a- sandy heaeh. DiUgences run bence to the
W. to Deva (p. 20; railwav In progress) and to the S.W. to Aspeitia ilrm^
plain), a small town of 2500 inhab., lying on the (/rola, amid hilla, with
remains of ancient walls and gates and interesting churches. A little to
tbe W., on the road to Atc6Uia^ is the imposing convent of Son lomeio de
lopdla, with its lofty domed church, erected by Fontana in 1683 et seq.
on the site of the house in which Loyola (IfUffO Lopez de Heealde; 1491-1556),
founder of the Society of Jesus (IMO), was born. From Aspeitia diligences
ply to the £. to Toloea (see below) and to the S. to Zvmdrraga (p. 14).
The Railway to MsDUfA del Camfo turns to the S. at San
Sebastian and ascends the pretty and industrious valley of the
Vrumea. We cross the river, thread a tunnel, and reach (16 M.)
HenLani, a small town situated high above the right banlL of the
Urumea, with several sombre old palaces and a large Churchy cel-
ebrated for its wood carvings. Hernanl was the birthplace of Juan
de Ufhieta, who took Francis I. prisoner at the battle of Pavia (1525).
Above the town rises the old Fort Santa Bdrbara, bombarded in
vain by the Carlists in 1874. — The train now quits the valley of
the Urumea and ascends steadily to the S.W. , passing under the
hill of Burunza by a tunnel. 2O72 M. Station for the high-lying
Andoafn. Beyond another tunnel the train crosses the Leizaran,
descending from the left, and enters the fertile and well-peopled
▼alley of the Oria, which it ascends as far as Ormaiztegui (p. 14).
23 M. ViUabona-azuriUil.
271/2 M. Toloia (260 ft. ; Fonda Mendia'), the ancient Iturissay
prettily situated in the green valley of the Oria, which here receives
the Aspiroz. It contains 5100 inhab. and was formerly the capital
of Guip6zcoa. The chief points of interest are the tasteful church
of Sanla Maria, with a colossal figure of John the Baptist on its
facade and a handsome modern marble altar in its interior; the
14 Soutel. ZUMARRAGA. From Inm
PtUacio Jdiaque%^ on the road to Navarre ; and the handsome avenues
on the Oria and the Berdstegm, the latter known as the PaUo dt
Jgarondo. Most of the numerous manufactories are engaged in mak-*-
ing paper (^papd eofUinud').
DiLiGBMCBS run from Tolosa to the W. to AzpeiUa (p. 13) and to the
S.E., vi& Betelu^ with celebrated mineral springs, lo Imrzuny a station on
the railway from Alsa<ma to Pampeluna (p. 175).
The train penetrates the foot-hills of the mountains to the S. by
several tunnels and crosses the Oria fifteen times. Numerous well-
to-do villages and manufactories are passed. To the left rise the
conical peak of Ardlar (4835 ft.) and the serrated ridge of Ataun.
Beyond (33 M.) Legorreta and (35V2M.) ViUafranca we reach (38 M.)
Beasafn (520 ft.).
From Beasain two direct Roads (10-12 H.)i one through the valley of
the 8egwa and the other via Cef/ama^ ascend to the Pwrto <fe Idiambul
(2160 ft.), to the E. of the mountain-pass of Otzaurte (see below), which the
railway reaches by a long detour. In making this attractive excursion, we
may either return to Beasain by the alternative road or descend on the
other side to AUdtua (see below). The church of Cegama contains the tomb
of the celebrated Carllst leader Tonuu ZwndUtedrrtgvi^ who was bora at
Ormaiztegui in 1788 and fell before Bilbao in 1834.
The train continues to follow the Oria, skirting the barren lime-
stone heights of the Sierra de 8an Adria/n, to (41 M.) Ormaiztegui^
the frequented Sulphur Botha of which lie to the left, adjoining the
Viaduct (330 yds, long, 116 ft, high) over the valley. It then turns
nearly to the N.W., ascends along the Areria, penetrates the Monte
de Eizaga by a tunnel, and enters the valley of the Uroto.
47 M. Zum&rraga (1170 ft. ; Hotel Ugalde, Fonda del ParaisOy
both by the rail, station), picturesquely situated at the foot of the
Castillo de Ipenarrieta, built in 1605 on the Irimo (2930 ft.), is the
junction of the railway to Bilbao and Miranda de Ebro (R. 2 ; car-
riages changed) and the starting-point of diligences to i4«pcitia, Lo-
yola, and Zarauz (p. 13 ; twice daily). It is the birthplace of Miguel
L6pe% de Legazpi, the conqueror of the Philippines in 1571, to whom
the province has erected a bronze statue designed by Marinas (1897).
At Zumarraga the line turns abruptly to the S. and ascends the
valley of Legazpia^ which is watered by the Urola. At (52^/2 M.)
Brincola (1660 ft.) it penetrates the E. wall of the valley by the
Tunnel of Oazurza, which is 3230 yds. long. On emerging from this
tunnel we find ourselves on the W. slope of the parallel valley of Ce-
gama (see above), which we ascend through 12 other tunnels, reach-
ing the culminating point of the line (2015 ft.) in the middle of
the tunnel beyond (59 M.) Otzaurte (1998 ft.). We eiyoy a series
of fine views of the fertile valley to the left, and of the limestone
heights of the Sierra de San Adrian to the right, including the
Aitzgorri (ca. 5250 ft.), crowned by the Ermita di S,in Adrian, and
the savage Monte Arax (3773 ft.).
The train now descends through brushwood, leaving the Puerto
de Idiazabal (s^e above) to the left and skirting the base of the hills
to Medina d O. YITORIA. J. fioute. 1 5
of AlMonia, to (66 M.) Aliif ma (1740 ft. ; RaU. Betiaurant), a vil-
lage of Navarre with 1800 inhab., prettily situated in the valley of
tha AraquU. The scenery here it of an Alpine character. To the
N. rises the Sierra di Aselar (4825 ft.), to the S. the Sierra dt Andia
(4900 ft.); farther off, to the £., are the Pyrenees.
From AlMaoa to Pampelumt and Cattejon (Saragoua)^ see p. 175.
The Madrid railway now turns to the W. , passes (66Vs^0
OUttogutiay and ascends through the wide valley of Borunda to the
plateau of Alava, which forms the oonnecting link between the
Pyrenees and the central tableland of Spain. Navarre is quitted at
Ciorda, We crosa the watershed almost imperceptibly and reach the
valley of the Zadorra^ which carries its waters to the £bro. The
scenery is very desolate. To the N.W. we see the MU. AroM (p. 14);
farther on the Puerto de Arlaban (p. 16) comes into sight, and the
serrated ridges of the Peha Ooryea (p. 25) and the Pena de Ambotu,
which separate the plateau of Alava from the deeply indented val-
leys of Tizeaya. — 72V2 H. Araya, at the foot of Mte. Araz; 77 M.
Salvatierra. Tunnel. To the left is the Ermita de Eitivare%i to the
right are the ruins of the castle of Guevara, built in the 15th cent,
in imitation of the Castle of S. Angelo at Rome.
At (83 M.) Alegr<d the train reaches the fertile Concha de Alavaj
watered by the Zadorra and several other rivers. This was formerly
the bed of a lake and is now a wide upland plain, bordered by
distant mountains. It contains many thriving villages.
92 M. Vitoria. " HoteU (comp. p. xx). Fohda dk Quintanilla,
Calle de la Eateddn, V« ^' f'om the vail. 8t«iioii, good cuisine, pens.
^Vs-d p. ; FoHOA PiXLABBS, CftUe de Postas, cor. of the Plasa de la Inde-
pendencia, with a small garden and baths; Fonda de PkSa, adjoining
the last, unpretending.
Oafea. UtUverml^ Strigc^ both in the Calle de la E8taci6n.
Post ft Telegraph Of&cei Plata de la Independencia. — Bull King
(Plaza de Torot), in the S.E. part of the new town.
Vitoria (1730 ft.), capital of the province of Al&va, lies in the
centre of the Concha de Alava. Pop. 24,600. It was founded in
581 by Leovigild, King of the Visigoths, after a victory over the
Basques, and was taken in 1198 by Alfonso VIII. of Castile.
The Calle de la Estaci^n leads to the N. from the railway-station
to the Nbw Towv, with its wide thoroughfares and spacious squares.
From the end of this street the Calle de Postas leads to the right to
the Plaza de Bilbao (p. 16) and to the Plaza de la Independencia,
with its trees. By turning slightly to the left at the end of the
Calle de la Estacidn, we reach the Plana Nveva, the market-place
and winter-promenade of the town. It is surrounded with arcades
and was erected in 1791 by Antonio de Olagaibel on the model of
the famous Plaza Mayor in Salamanea. On the N. side of the plaza
is the Casa ConsiMtorialj bearing the arms of Alava, a castle sup-
ported by two lions, — The Plaza Nueva is adjoined on the W. by
the Plaza Vieja, with the Gothic church of San Miguel, situated
16 RouU U VITORIA. From trun
on the slope of the old town. The high-altar, carved In wood, in the
Renaissance style of the 16th cent., by Juan Velazquez and Qtegono
Hemandee, is deservedly celebrated as a work of art. On the out-
side of the choir, down to 1841 , hung the well-known Machete
Vitoriano (now in the town-hall), by which the Civil Governor of
the Basque Provinces took his oath of office : 'May my head be cut
off with this knife, if I do not defend the fn^ros of my fatherland'.
Proceeding to the N.W. from the lower end of the Plaza Vieja,
we soon reach the Plaza de la Provincia , adorned with a bronze
Statue of Mateo BerUno Mora%a, the zealous upholder of the fu^ros,
unveiled in 1896. The Palaoio db la Provincia, built in 1868,
contains a fine Oruciflxion (1643) by Ribera (in the hall of the pro-
vincial diet) and paintings of SS. Peter and Paul (1637) by the
same hand (in an adjoining room ; fee y^i p.).
We now proceed by the back of the palace to the left, threugh
the Galle de Juego de Pelota, to the pretty Pa$eo de la Florfda^ with
its well-kept grounds. The PasSo de la Senda^ to the S., and the
Pcueo del Ptado, beyond the railway, call for no remark. A little
to the £. of the latter is the Conoefdo de las Scdetcu^ built in the
Gothic style in 1880, with a lofty tower.
The Ufpbe Town, known as La Villa Suso or El CampiUo 8u80^
situated on the low ridge to the N. of the new town, containa little
of interest It is most easily reached from the Plaza de Bilbao
(p. 15). We first reach the Villa Vieja ^ a girdle of six streets enclos-
ing the Villa Suso. At the N. end of the latter stands the Oathe-
.D&Aii OF Santa Ma&ia, an unsightly Gothic ediUce, built in the
12th cent, and restored in the 14th, with a modern tower. Its only
feature of interest is the much-damaged sculptures of the portal.
The interior contains a few sadly dilapidated Gothic tombs. In the
sacristy is a Pieti ascribed to Murillo(?).
Fbom Vitobia to Vergaba, railway under constraction, open as far
as (12 H.) Salituu de Liniz (in about V4 hr. *, fares 2 p. 20, 1 p. 66 c, 1 p.).
— The train passes (8'/« M.) Villarreal de Alava, on the road from Vitoria
to the baths of Santa Agueda and Mondragon^ crosses the mountains a
little to the W. of the Puetto de Arlaban (1740 ft.), and then descends
through the valley of the Deva to (12 H.) Salinas de LSnit. Diligence hence
past the baths of Arechevaleta and Mondragon to Vergara^ see p. 20.
Our line continues to run towards the W., intersecting the cel-
ebrated Battlefield of VUoria,
The battle of Vitoria took place on June 21st, 1813. The French,
under King Joseph and Marshal Jourdan, were stationed at Tree Puentes
and Subejana de Akma, to the N. of Nanelare* (see below). The British,
under the Duke of Wellington, advanced through the pass of Puebla (see
below) and took, up their position at Subejana de Morales. The engage-
ment ended in the defeat of the French, who retired to Vitoria, from
which, however, they were soon ousted. Their loss amounted to 6C00
men and 120 guns. This battle practically decided the war in Spain.. .
We now cross the Zadorra and reach (100 M.) Nanelarea de la
Oca (1590 ft.), situated amid the limestone hills. To the S. we see
Castillo and Puebla de Arganzon, two small and ancient walled
to Medina d. C. MIRANDA D£ EBRO. /. Route. 1 7
towns, lying in a narrow defile , through which the lake of A lava
(p. 15) once discharged its waters. The train sgain crosses the
Zadorra and passes (107 H.) ManMno$^ the last station in Alava.
We now enter the profince of Burgot and the broad valley of the
Ebro, here a very insignificant stream. The train crosses the railway
to Bilbao (R. 2) and then the Banat^ an affluent of the Ebro.
113 M. Xiranda de Xbzo (1470 ft. ; Fonda de Egaiia, at the
rail, station ; *RaU. Restawrani)^ the junction of the lines to Bilbao
(B. 2) and Saragossa (R. 12). Carriages are changed for these places.
— The town of Miranda, with 4100 inhab., old walls and castle,
and the church of St. Nicholas, lies to the S., on the Ebro.
Seats should now be taken to the right (as far as Pancorbo). To
the W. we see the barren Monte BiUbio , the last summit of the
limestone ridge of the Sierra de Tolono, and the Buradon^ which
belongs to the 8i€rra de Pancorbo (MorUee Obarenes), The train
crosses the Ebro, leaving the town of Miranda to the left, and sweeps
lound to the £. It then aseends rapidly to the * Qa/rganUi or Gorge
of Paneorho, formed by the OronciUo on its passage through the
limestone mountains. At the mouth of the ravine, to the left, are
the ruins of the convent of Bugedo. Beyond two tunnels we reach
the first expansion of the gorge, where we obtain fine views behind
us and of the valley of Ameyugo to the W. We then cross a bridge
and thiead a narrow part of the defile, flanked by jagged and precip-
itous cliffs. Beyond two more tunnels the train enters the second
expansion of the rarrine and stops at (124 M.) Pancorbo (2073 ft.),
a wretched village, with the ruins of two castles, SatUa Maria and
Santa Engraeia. Fine retrospect of the serrated cliffs of the Montes
Obarenes, which extend towards the N.W.
We now reach the upland plains of Old Caetiie, where the eye
is wearied by the interminable expanse of corn-fields. The train
ascends steadily, at first along the Oca.
1381/2 M. Brivieeea (2330 ft.), an unimporUnt town with 3100
inhabitants. A meeting of the Cortes, held here in 1388, decreed that
the heir-apparent to the throne of Castile should bear the title Trince
of Asturias', a style that is still adhered to. The Capilla de 8o-
Vraga, in the Collegiate Church, and the suppressed convent of Sania
(^ra contain admirably carved altars.
About 15 M . to tho K. of Briyiesea (dnigence) Hm OSa, with the cel-
ebrated Beaedictine convent of 8cm Salvador (now suppressed), founded
by C9unt Sancho Chorda in 1011. It contains the interesting tombs of four
i^ags. About 3 H. farther on is La Sortutada^ a Roman bridge across
the Ebro.
The line continues to ascend, passing Pr&danos, Castil de Peones,
&nd (148 M.) Santa Olalla. It then sweeps round HedrehUa, threads
fourtunnels, and reaches the bleak and stormy plateau of the Br&jula
(3160 ft. ; highest point, to the W., 3266 ft,), forming the watershed
between the Ebro and the Douro. We then descend along the small
yega to (157 V2 M.) QuintanapaUa. In the little church of the
Babdskkb''8 Spain. 2
18 Route 1. VENTA DE BANGS.
village, wbich lies about 1 M. from tbe station, Gbarleell. of Spain
was married in 1682 to Marie Louise, eldest daugbter of tb^ Duke
of Orleans, brotber of Louis XIV. — As we approach Burgos tbe
country becomes fiat and dreary. To tbe rigbt appear tbe castle and
catbedral of Burgos, to tbe left tbe Cartuja de Miraflores ; in tbe
extreme distance is tbe Sierra de la Demanda (p. 178). Finally we
cross tbe ArlansSn and skirt tbe Quinta Promenade (p. 33).
1^ M. Burgos, see p. 25.
Beyond Burgos we see tbe convent of Las Huelgas (p. 84) to
tbe rigbt. Tbe line follows the Arlanz6n as far as Torquemada (see
below). Fartber on, to tbe left, are tbe beigbts of the Sierra de
Cov(trr<ibia8. 174 M. QuintanUUja; 180 M. EstSpar; 186 1/2 M.
VUlaquirdn; 193 1/2 M. VillodrigOj tbe first station in tbe province
ofPaleneia, once part of tbe kingdom of Leon. We cross tbe Arlanz6n
at its confluence with tbe Arlanza, which descends from the Sierra
de la Demanda (to tbe E.). 200 M. Quhttana ('del Puente*).
207 M. Torquemaday situated a little below the point where the
Arlanz6n joins tbe PUuerga, which flows from N. to S. We soon
cross the latter river. 214^/2 M. Magat, with a ruined castle.
220 M. Venta de Bafios (*not. Viuda de Barbotan^ opposite the
rail, station, R. 2V2» D. 3p.; Rail. Restaurant), the junction of tbe
railways to Santander (R. 5), Asturias, and Galicia (R. 51). Near
Venta are the Bonos de OeratOj the medicinal spring of which cured
Recceswind, King of tbe Visigoths, of the stone. The small basilica
of San Juan Bautista was erected by the grateful monarch in 661.
Tbe train crosses tbe Carrion and follows first the right bank of
the Pisuerga and then tbe Canal &f Castile (p. 36) , which runs
parallel with the river through the corn-growing Tierra de Compos.
To the left lies Tariego. with its cave-dwellings ; to the right is the
convent of San Isidro de Duerkts. At (223 M.) Duerias Isabella the
Catholic met Ferdinand of Aragon before their marriage. — The
train now enters the province of Valladolidj also belonging to the old
kingdom of Leon. 233 M, Corcos-AguUarejo ; 23572 M. Cahetdnj
now entirely bereft of its quondam importance. The train crosses
the Pisuerga by a nine-arched bridge, and then the Esgueva.
243 M. Yalladolid, see p. 86.
From Valladolid to Asiza, 169 M., railway (one through-train daily)
in 91/4 hrs. (fares 29 p. 45, 22 p. 10, 14 p. 75 c). The most important
intermediate stations are: ISVs H. Tudela de Duero; 37 Vs M. POkifiel; 62 M.
Aranda de Buero, a picturesque old town on the right bank of the Dowro^
with d(X)0 inhabitants. — 126y2M. Almaz&n, a high-lying town of 2G00 inhab.,
commanding a fine mountain-view, with remains of the old walls and
gates destroyed by the French in 1810, and a famous bridge over the
Donro, 180 yda. long and having thirteen arches. Almaz^n is the Junction
of the railway from Alcnneza to Soria (p. 166). — 159 M. Ariza^ a station
on the railway from Madrid to Saragossa (p. 156).
A branch-line (2&Vs M., in 2 hrs.) runs from Valladolid to the small
town of Medina de Rioieeo.
The train now enters a monotonous and almost treeless plain,
crosses the Douro a little above Puente de Dueroy and then the Cega^
VEROARA. 2. Route. 19
an affluent from the 8., at (T^i M.) Viana de Cega, Beyond (254 IVT.)
VMtstttUu we cross the Adaja (p. 461. 268Vs M. Mnfoposweof.
At (263*/2 M.) PotAldet the country again becomes more fertile.
269 M. Hedlna del Campo (2370 ft. ; Fonda del Norte, Fonda
del Comereio, both Indifferent; Rail, Restaurant, tolerable), an
Important railway centre, being the J\inct!on (carriages changed) for
the lines to Salamanca and Portugal (R. 50), to Madrid viftATllaCR. 6),
to Hadrld vti SegOTia (R. T), and to Zamora (see below). The town,
an old place with 520b inhab., is pictaresquely situated on the left
bank of the Zapardiel. The collegiate church of San Antolin, built
in the Gothic style in 1509 , contains soTeral good retablos and a
banner of the kings of Gastlle. The Ca9tillo de la Mota, now partly
in ruins, was erected by Fernando de Garrefio in 1440 and was a
favourite resort of Isabella the Catholic, who died here in 1504.
Fbom Hkdina obl Caiipo to Zamora I 56 M., railway in 3>/«-5 hrti.
(fares 10 p. 36, 7 p. 80, 6 p. 20 c). The ohief intermediate stations are
Jfavo del Rey, Castro Ifuflo (where the Douro is crnsfled), and Toro. -^
Zamorm^ aee p. iT3.
Conihmaltian of the Jowmey vi& AvUa or Segovia to Madrid^ see
pp. 45-60.
2. From Znmirraga to Bilbao and Kranda do Ebro.
Fkom Zdmabbaoa to Bilbao, 52 M., narrow-gauge railway In 3-4*/4 hrs.
(fares 9 p... 6 p. 45 e., 4 p.). This Is a very picturesque trip: best views,
as far aa Kilsaga, to the left. FIvst-elaas paasengevs are advised to use
the Coeke-Buff^ or diniag-ear, for which an extra charge of 3 p. is made;
the food is simple and not dear. The station in Zumirraga is opposite
that of the 'Northern Railway. In Bilbao the trains arrive at the Achuri
station, whence a tramway runs to the town.
Fkom Bjolbao to Miramda db Bbeo, 64 M., railway in 8i/r4 hrs. (fares
12 p., 9 p., 6 p. 40 e.). Best views to the left. Departure from the Estacidn
del Norte.
ZumSnraga, see p. 14. — The train for Bilbao follows the
Northern Railway for a short distance through the wide valley of
the Vrola^ then aicends to the W. through a narrow lateral valley
on the slope of Monte Irimo (p. 14), which divides the valley of
the tJrola from that of the Ani%iu6la. Near the Fuerto de De$carga
we penetrate the crest of the mountains by a long tunnel. The line,
oommanding many line views of the lower part of the Anzuola valley,
rans along the N. slope, high above the river. Crossing several side
valleys and threading five tunnels , it then descends to (6 M.) An^
ttiola. — Beyond this point the railway affords a good idea of the
character of the Basque provinces, as described at p. 2. To the right
Slid left rise lofty hills, covered with chestnuts, oaks, and ferns ; the
bottom of the beautiful valley Is a mass of fruit-trees. Three tun-
nels. Yergara appears below us to the left. The train reaches it by
another tunnel and a sharp curve.
10 H. Tergarat a town of 8200 inhab., is finely situated among
lofty mountains, at the confluence of the Anzuola with the Deva. The
Corwenio d/f Yergara coD^luded in 1839 between the Garlist general
2*
20 Route 2. DURANGO. From Zumdrraga
Maroto and the Spanish general Esparteroy stipulated that the Basqaes
should lay down their arms and so put an end to the first Oarlist
war. The church of San Pedro contains an admirable statue of
Christ by MofUan£$ (p. lix). In the once famous Semmcario, founded
in 1776 , is a statue of St. Ignatius by Gregorio Hernandez. — A
diligence runs from Yergara to SdliruLS de Liniz, whence there is a
railway to Vitoria (see p. 16).
The line, sweeping to the right, crosses a side-valley by an em-
bankment and then descends on the right bank of the Peva, between
low hills, to (14^2 M.) Plaeeneia. TunneL On the high mountain
slopes are artificial terraces with groves of chestnuts and fields of
com. We cross the Deva and ascend to the W., on the right bank
of the Ermuay to (I6V2 M.) Mdlzaga.
From Hilsaga a narrow-gaoge railway (*/« hr. \ fares 2 p. 10, 1 p. 60 c,
1 p.) rans to (10>/s M.) Deva (*Hdt. Deoa), a sea-bathing resort, with a small
harbour, prettily situated at the base of the Mante Andut. From Deva vis
Zarauz (to which the railway Is to be prolonged) to San Sebastian^ tee p. 13.
18 M. Eibar^ with manufactories of small-arms. Beyond (20t/9M.)
Ermua , the first station in Vizeaya (p. 21) , we ascend through a
narrow, richly- wooded glen, one of the finest points on the line.
Long tunnel. We then descend on the S.W. slope of the mountains,
through fields of com, to (24 Vs M.) Zaldfvar, with sulphur-lrathfl,
on the Azubia, — 26 1/2 M. Olacueta.
30 M. Burango (Hot. de Olmedal), a town of 3200 inhab. , pret-
tily situated on the DurangOy below the mouth of the Azubia , in a
wide upland valley enclosed by lofty mountains. It carries on some
manufactures and contains one of the oldest churches (8€ai Pedro de
Tavira) in the Basque provinces.
The train now backs out of the station and descends to the N.W.
through the fertile and well-wooded valley of the Durango. 34 M.
Euba. — 37 M. Amordbieta, also the station for Zomoza,
Fbom Amorkbieta to Pedesnales, iSi/s H., narrow-gauge railway in
1 hr. (fares 2 p. 90, 1 p. 86, 1 p. 30 c). — Vh M. ZugagHeta; V/t M. Mu-
friea* — 91/9 M. Chianiica (Fonda at the raiL station), a small town of
2200 inhab., splendidly situated on the Munddea^ was the seat of Uie diet
of Vizeaya until the aholition of the fu^rot (p. 4). The deputies met
every two years in front of the Ccua de JunUu , under an oak-tree which
is celebrated in the national anthem of the Basques. — Beyond Ouerniea
the line descends through the i>retty valley of the Mundaca, passing sev-
eral small stations. To the right is a small ch&teau of the Empress
Eugenie. — 151/2 M. Pedemalet. A diligence, connecting with the trains,
runs hence via (7 H.) Mtmdaea^ a fishing-village on a bay at the mouth
of- the river, to (9 M.) Bermeo, the most important fishing-station in Viz-
eaya (6000 inhab.), with a new Insane Asylum for the Basque provinces.
The bay (playa) commands a noble prospect of the sea and coast, extend-
ing to the Cabo ifocMcAoco, with its lighthouse, on the N.W., and to the
hills of San Sebastian (p. 13) on the S.E.
The railway to Bilbao follows the valley of the Durango. 40 M.
Lemona ; 461/2 M. ZuazOy with a dynamite factory. — We now enter
the fruitful, wine-producing valley of the Nervion, — 47^/2 M. Ariz-
Do8-Camino9 (p. 24). — 52 M. Bilbao.
to Minmda de Ebro. BILBAO. 2. RtmU. 21
Bmmo. — XiOlwiqr ttetiMs. l. EttacUin d»l Norit (PI. 0, 4), for ih^
lime to Mirttd* de Bb>0{ 3. M$iiuidm d» A»rtaifaMf (PI. C, 4), by the prin-
cipal bridge, both ia the Kew Town. — 3. Estaetin d« Ban Agutti^ (PI.
E, 3), behind the town-hall, for Las Arenas and Plencia; 4. Bstaeidn dk
Uzdma (PI. D, 5); 6. EttaeUn d« Achuri (PI. B, G, 6), for the line to Du-
rftBgo «od Zviiidrragft. These three in the Old Town.
HoteU (eomp. p. xz^ no omnibuses). *HoTn Tbbmimus (PI. m\ C, 4),
Calle de la Estaei6n 3 (in the New Town), a house of the first class, with
electric light, steam heat, lift, and covered passage to the Bstacidn del
Norte, pens, from 10 p. — Hot. d*Amoletebbb (PI. c i D, 4), Boul. Arenal,
eatr. at CaUe de Correo 25 ^ Hot. Amtohia (PI. d; G, 4), Calie de Bide-
barrieta 14, cor. of the Boul. Arenal, unpretending) Hot. Gatalima (PI. e;
D, 5), Galle de Ascao % unpretending. These three are in the Old Town.
Xestoanuita (eomp. p. xxi). ^AnUigw, Calle de Bidebarrieta 7 } Pirudema^
■f;
Calle de la Libortad i; Campos M Olimpo (p. 23).
Oafto (eomp. p. xxii). Cqfi Buixo^ on the ground floor of the Hdt.
Inglaterra and in Uie Plasa Nueva; *Bolsa^ Boul. Arenal*, Arriaga^ in the
theatre. Bagliah ale and Bavarian beer at all.
Oaba with one horse, for 1-2 pers., >/« P* V^ drive, 2 p. per hr., each
addit. pers. >/i p. more; with two horses, 1-2 pers. li/t and 2Vs Pm 8-^ P^'^*
2 and 3 p. BtMid on the Arenal, in front of the theatre^ supply limited.
Xramwaja. 1. From the £*lad&» de Acfmri (PI. B, G, 6) by the Arenal
(PI. D, 4) to the Mereado del Ewcmche (PI. G, 2). 2. From the Flatn Yieja
(PI. C, 6) to TivolL 3. From the Plata Yieja to ZvbdUmru. — Blectrio
Tramwaya from the Arenal (PI. D, 4) to Algeria^ vi& Deusto, Luchana, De-
sierto, and Las Arenas, and to amturee ▼!& Olaveaga, Luchana, Desierto,
Sestao, and Portngalete.
Staamera. 1. To Ca$lro and Qijon (agent, Bufino de Urdburu, Colon
de Larreat^ui). — 2. CoaUimg Steamers of the Ibarra Co. (agent, Berge St Co.,
Graa Via 6) eomp. the *Gnia para los vii^eros% mentioned at p. xv).
Theatre (PI. C, 4), in the Arenal. — Oireua, Calle Harqu^s del Puerto.
-~ Ball Biag (JPtaxa de foros), outside the New Town. — Ball Game
iPidota ; eomp. p. xxix) : Eront&n EvskaUkma. Calle de Hnrtado de Am^saga ;
Aval^ de Abaado^ FrmU&ik de Deusto^ in tne suburbs of those names. —
Band in the Arenal every summer-evening at .7.90 j in winter on Sun. and
festivals at midday.
Phyaiciaaa. Dr. Campbett, Desierto, Erandia; Dr. Sierra., Galle de la
Esperanaa 2. — Bniggista. Bengoa^ Calle de la Estacidn 12 \ fimdo, Calle
de la Craz 10. — Batha. El ifervion, Calle Nueva (with medicinal baths).
Baaka. Bmitco de EspcMa., Calle del Banco de Espana-, Banco de Bil-
bao, Plaauela de San Nicolas \ C. Jaeqvet^ Calle del Correo 82.
Bookaallera. Bulfy^Co..^ Calle Banco de EspaSa 3; DeJmasy Calle del
Correo 24. — Photegrapha : Landdburu ffermaaos, Galle de la Cruz 11.
Boat Oface (Correo; PI. C, 3), Calle Ayala, near the Estaci6n del Norte.
— Telegraph Ottee, Plaza Nueva 16 (PI. D, 5).
Britiah Ooaaul, C. B. Smith, Galle de Hurtado de Am^aga 22. — V. 8. A.
Ooaavlar Agent, B^dneif /. />y«r, Calle del Baaeo de Bilbao. — English
Ckureh Service at Portngalete (p. 24) ^ chaplain, Bev. Arthur Burrtell.
Chief Attractiona (one day): Arenal; Paseo de Volcmtin; Church of
Begofta; excursion to Portugaiete and L<u Arenas.
BUbao (20 ft. above sea-ievel), Basque Ibaizahal, the capital of
the province of Vizeaya and ranking with Santander as one of th6
most important commercial towns on the N. coast, lies finely on the
Nervton, amid partly wooded hills , about 8 M. from the sea. Pop.
66,000. The town , which was founded by Diego Lopez de Haro,
Lord of Biscay, about 1300, was repeatedly hesieged by theCarlists
in the wars of 1833-36 and 1873, but was never captured. The Old
Toum, on the right bank of the Nervlon, has narrow streets and is
dosely packed between the river and the hills. The New Town, on
22 JUmU ^i BILBAO* Miom ZmnAiwgm
tlie roomier left bank, has flprung up since the last Carlist war, but
it is already much larger tban the old town and is steadily attracting
more and more of tbe trade. It includes an English colony of con-
siderable size. The river is crossed by three stone bridges and two
iron ones. Though insignificant in itself, it has been so much im-
proved by a process of canalization that ships of 4000 tons burden
can enter it at high tide, while its dangerous inundations are a thing
of the past. A large outer harbour, formed by two breakwaters,
one on the W. near Santurce, the other on the E. near Algorta,
is in course of construction. Bilbao owes its prosperity mainly to
the extensive deposits of iron ore on the left bank of the Nervion.
These have been known since hoar antiquity, but were not system-
atically exploited tiU the last 20 or 30 years. In 1882-96 about
55 million tons were exported, chiefly to Great Britain and in Brit-
ish ships.
In the middle ages Bilbao was so celebrated for its iron and steel
manufactures, that the Elizabethan writers use the term UVbo for rapier
and bilbof for fetters. Thus Falataff ('Merry Wives of Windsor', III. 5)
describes his condition in the buck-basket as ^compassed, like a good
Bilbo, in the circumference of a peck, hilt to point, heel to head\
The most frequented part of the old town and the focus of the
life of the entire city is the shady Arbnal (PI. C, D, 4), which con-
tains several hotels, the chief caf^s, the Teatro IfuevOy built by
Joaquin Bucoba, and the church of San Nicold$^ dating originally
from the 15th cent, but entirely remodelled in 1743-56. Adjoining
the theatre is the small Plaza de Arriaga (PI. C, 4).
From the Calle de los Fueros, to the S.E. of the Arenal, we pass
to the right into the large Plaza Nubva (PI. D, 5), a square in the
style of the Plaza Mayor in Salamanca (p. 465), surrounded by lofty
buildings and by arcades which are used as winter-promenades. —
From the S.E. angle of the Plaza Nueva the short Calle de la Libertad
leads to a small plaza with the high-lying station of the railway to
Lezama. Here, too, is the Institato (PI. D, 5), built about 1844,
with a Library on the groundfloor and a small Cotteetion of Natural
History on the first floor. The steps on the N.E. side of the plaza
lead to the Roman Catholic Cemetery and to Begona (p. 23).
The Calle de la Cruz leads hence in the opposite direction, pass-
ing (left) the church of Los Santos Juanes, to the church of San-
tiago (PI. C, 5), a Gothic structure of the 14th cent., with a modern
facade and tower. At the back is a large hall with pillars. — The
Calle Teuderia, continuing the Calle de la Cruz, leads to the PjiAsja
Vibja (pi. C, 5), the market-place of the old town. On the E. side
of this, on the site of the Alcazar destroyed in 1366, is the church
of San Antonio Abad^ a Gothic building of the 15th cent. , partly
modernized in the interior. Just above this point is the Puente de
Achuri , erected in 1878 near the site of the famous old bridge of
St. Antony , which was taken down the previous year. — To the
3.E. is the Achuri Station (p. 21).
to Minmda dc Ebro. BILBAO. ?. RouU, 23
The new pleasure-gromids below the Pastfo del Arentl aie more
attractive than the parts of the city already mentioned. A short dis-
tance to the N. stands the Palaeio de Aynatomiento (PL B, 3),
or town-hall, a handsome baroque edifice by Joaqufn BiAcoba^ witiii
a lofty tower. The flight of steps iu front is adorned with marble
figures of £quity and Law ; the interior contains a fine Testibule in
Carrara marble and a large reception-hall in a Moorish style. —
Behind the town-hall lies the EstaeUfn de San Agwtin (p. 21).
The ^Campo in Yolamtin (PI. £, 3, 2) descends along the
river for about i/j ^' ^^^ ^^^ town-hall, commanding a series of
beautiful TlewB. At the end of it , on the hill to the right, Is the
caf^-restaurant known as the Campot dd Olimpo. The continuation
of this street (electric tramway, see p. 21) leads past the (right)
targe Jesuit College to the suburb of DiwtOf which contains the
CoUgio dc 3ordo»-Mudoi y Ciegoi (asylum for deaf-mutes and the
blind), erected in 1891. Farther on the road leads past Luchana,
Dtsierto^ and other manufacturing places to Lai Areruu (p. 24).
The Nbw Town (Entanehe), on the left bank of the Nerrion, pos-
sesses wide streets and substantial modem buildings. The principal
approach to it is formed by the Puente del Arenal or de Jtabel Se-
gwnda (PL D,4), erected in 1878, which crosses from the Aienal and
affords a good view of the shipping in the river. To the left, just
beyond the bridge, is the PortugaUte Station (p. 21). Farther on,
at the end of the Galle de la Estaci6n, is the Plaza OmouLAa
(PL G, 3) or Plaza de Isabel Segunda, in the centre of which is a
tine bronze Btatxu of Diego Lopez de Haro (p. 21), by BenUiure.
On the S. side of the plaza is the Estaddn del NorU (p. 211 On
the W. side begins the wide Gban Via dh Lopbz db Hard (FL G,
B, A, 3, 2, 1), the finest street in the new town , ending for the
present at the Plata EUptica or de Lopet de Hwto (PL B, 2). — A
little to the N. of this street lies the Plana de Albia, with its pretty
grounds, adjoined by the church of San Vicente Mdrtir (PL D, 3),
dating originally from the 12th cent, but in its present form a
I^issanee structure of the 16th cent., with eight massiTe round
piers and fine vaulting. To the W. is the Mereado de Ensanehe
(PI. C, 2). — To the S. of the Gran Via, at the comer of the Ala-
oieda de Urqnijo and the Galle Ayala, is the modern Gothic church
of La Resideneia (PI. G, 3). At the comer of the Gran Via and the
Calle Astarloa is the new Paiaeio de la Diputaddn Provincial (PL B,
^j % 3), in the baroque style, by Luis Aladren.
Walks (very attractive). To the Englith Cemetery (Cementerio Ipgl^s),
^ th« left bank of tli« Nervioa, below the Kew Town. Many British
(Officers are buried here. — From the Inatituto (p. 22), paat the CiUholie
Ctmeterp (Campo Santo de Mallonai PI. E, 4,5), to the (1 H.) high-lying
fWcA of Begolia, a building of the l6th cent., with a tower added in
^. The hill affords a splendid 'View of Bilbao and the valley of the
^«rvion, seen at its best by eveniug-light.
From Bilbao to Santander^ aee p. 44.
24 RouU 2. PORTUGALETE. From Zvmdrraga
Fbom Bilbao to Pobtuqale'te, TVs M., railway in 25 min. (24 trains
daily, fares 80, 66, 86e.). Stalion in Bilbao, see p. 20. — The train
descends the rapidly expanding valley, generally close to the left bank of
the Nervion. It passes the stations of Olaveaffa, with nnmerous vineyards,
and Zorroxa. We Uien cross the Cadagua and reach Luchana. The valley
conk^acts. — AVz M. DtHerto^ with numerous iron famaees and foundries.
Farther on we cross the GalindOy thread a short tunnel, and reach Sestao^
with iron-works. At low Ude the broad channel of the river here is
usually dry. •— V/t M. Portufalste iH&tel-Be$taurant Jnza, with a view
terrace ( Bath RettauraatjWiih hot and cold sea-baths, both on the quay),
a small seaport with 4300 inhab., lies at tbe mouth of the Kervion in the
Bay of Biibao. The narrow streets , with their balconied bouses, stretch
picturesquely up the hillside. At the top is a tasteful Gothic church.
The Batneriat^ or church-festivals, take place on July 26th, Aug. 16-16th,
and Sept. 9th. There is a small Englith Church here, used hy the British
residents and the seafaring community. The *MueUe da Churmea^ a fine
quay with good views, extends from the station past the PuenU ViMcapa
(see below) and ends in a mole. 2/s ^- longi erected to protect the harbour.
The Lighthowe at the end of the mole commands a splendid view of the
bay. On the low E. bank are Las Arenas^ Algorta, and the Funta d« GaUm.
and on the steep W. bank is Santurce^ all with pretty villas and commanded
by the fort on the Monte de Serantes (electric tramways to Bilbao, see p. 21).
The intercourse between Portugalete and Las Arenas is carried on by
the iron *Fveiit« Yisoaya, a so-called ^puente trasbordador', constructed
in 1893 by Palaeio of Bilbao at a cost of 800,000 p. (32,000/.). Two massive
double-piers, 204 ft. in height, stand on stone jplatforms close to the edge
of the river and support a light iron bridge, 580 ft. long and 150 ft. above
the water. From this bridge hangs a flying-ferry, about 16 ft. above the
water, moving on wheels and propelled 1^ an engine in the lower part
of the E. pier. This can accommodate 200 persons and crosses the river
in 1 min. (fares 10 c, 5 c). The vehicle is steadied by a net-work of
thin wire-ropes, and the stability of the upper bridge is also increased by
wire-cables passing over the tops of the piers and embedded in the ground
beyond. — Laa Arenas (Fonda y Cafi del Reereo; Fonda Nwva; H6t. Ven-
tura^ all near the bridge) has an excellent bathing beach, which attracts
numerous Spanish visitors in spite of the somewhat unsatisfactory ac-
commodation (season, mid-June to end of Sept.). There are an unpretend-
ing Curhaus and numerous lodging-houses. Las Arenas is connected by
electric tramway (see p. 21) with Bilbao (40 e.) and (1 M.) Algorta (20 c.),
another small sea-bathing resort, and with Bilbao also by railway (7Vt M. \
20 trains daily ^ fares 60, 80 e.^ stotion at Bilbao, see p. 21). Another
narrow-gauge railway runs via Algorta to (9V3 H .) Flencia^ a seaside-resort
at the month of the river of that name.
The Railway fbom Bilbao to Miranda db Ebbo, starting from
the £8taci6n del Norte, passes through a tunnel and aseends the left
bank of the Nervion. On the slopes are many iron - mines ; the
river is bridled by several weirs. — 41/2 M. Dos Caminos (p. 20).
— 6 M. Arrigorriagat with a paper-mill. The name (Basque : 'red-
dyed stone') commemorates the victory of the Basques of Ylzcaya
over Ordono, son of Ramiro I. of Asturlas (848). — O^g M. Mira^
valUSj with a machine-factory, in a pretty wooded district. The
train crosses the river eight times. — 13 M. Areta, at the confluence
of the Oroseo with the Nervion. We enter the province of Alava,
— 13^4 M. JUodio, amid vineyards and groves of nut-trees. To the
*ight are the small ferruginous baths of Luyando, Near by is a
^ne cross, on the site of the Malato Tree, which marked the N.
lit of the recruiting powers of Castile (comp. p. 4). — We cross
J!I!^?A[mal^^^^i*^n]^b?^!aip^f
1 iJipufiti'f'nii p7yimtc/Vj/ K -S
rj P/irnff iff VfiKt Y. t
to Mirand(», de mro, ORDUflA. 2. Hfrnie. 25
the river three times more. — 21^2 H. Amwrio (605 ft.). On the
slopes are seTeral Basque farms (p. 4). — The train continues to
follow the left bank of the Nervion. The next bit of the line is the
finest of all, a rise of 1400 ft. being overcome in about 20 M. To
the left the view extrads to the crest of the Cantabrian Mta. and in-
cludes the PeSia Oorvea (6015 ft), the highest summit in Yizcaya.
The valley contracts. To the left , about 650 ft. above the valley
and about 2 M. distant as the crow flies, may be seen the higher
part of the railway.
25Vs M. Ordufta (ca. 935 a), an ancient town of 3000 inhab.,
frequently mentioned in Basque history, lies in the uppermost level
of the N^vion valley, a high-lying plain bounded on the W. by the
abrupt limestone cliifs of the Ptna de Orduna, The 'concha* of Or-
daiia forms an enclave of Yizcaya within the province of Alava.
The railway ascends on the £. side of the valley, at first on the
£. flank of the Pe&a de Ordufia, and describes a curve of 7-8 M. in
length, the ends of which are only V2^- apart. About halfway, near
the village of DeUea, it crosses the Nervion and threads two short
tunnels. To the left we have a retrospect of OrduHa and the section
of the railway we have Just passed over. The line now enters the
valley of the Oro%eo. 34 M. Lezama. Another great curve and three
tannels bring us to (40 M.) the grandly situated InoaOy beyond which
the train ascends , high up on the mountain-side, with fine views
(left) of the deep wooded valley of the Orozco and the Pe&a Gorvea, to
the QuJuU Tunnel (2045 ft.), through the Montana de OujuU, the
watershed between the sea and the valley of the Ebro. The line then
descends, through an oak-forest on the S. slope of the Cantabrian
Mts., to (43^2 ^0 iMirra (Basque *star') and enters the attractive
valley of the Baycu, — 51 72 ^- Zuazo, with sulphur-baths, lies to
the left, on the steep hillside. The valley contracts and forms the
limestone gorge of Teehae, Tunnel. — 55Vj M. Pobea. We cross the
river several times, and descend in a curve to the valley of the Ebro,
. 64 M. Kiraiidft de Sbro, see p. 17. — From Miranda to Burgos^
see R. 1 ; to Saragona^ see R. 12.
3. BurgoB.
Tbe BaUway Btation {Eitaeidn dd Ferroearril; PI. C, 5) lies a little
out of the way, in the Barrio de Santa Dorolea, to the S.W. of the city.
Hotels (eomp. p. xz). Hotxl dk Paris (PI. a ; F, O, 3), in the Espolon,
Vz X. from the cathedral j *Hot. dkl Nobtb t de Loitdbeb (PI. b; E, 3),
Calle de Lain Calvo, pens. 9, omn. 1 p. ; Hot. Monin (PI. c : F, 3), Calls del
Almirante Bonifaz 7 and 9, in the Spiinish style, unpretending, pens. 6-8 p.
— *Cqfi SuizOj in the Espolon.
Garriagea may be hired at the hotels or of Lino Dorao^ Calle de
Avellanos.
Baths. ElBecuerdo, Paseo de los Vadillos; Azwla, Calle de la Puebla 36.
Booksellers. Berce, Plaza de Prim 21 •, Rodrigvz, Calle de Lain Calvo 12.
Theatre (PI. P, 3), in the Espolon. — Bull Bing {Plaza de Torot; PI. G,2),
Paieo de los VadlUoa.
26 Routes, BUB008. HUUyry:
PMt Office iC9rrw; PI. F, 3), Espolon 58. — Telegnph Office (PI. F, 2),
Calle de Lain Calvo.
Principal Attractiona (visit of one day) : Etpolon (p. 27) *, Cathedral (p. 27) ;
excursion to the Cartuja d« Warafloru (p. 94).
Burgos (2786 ft.), the capital of the provinee of the same name
and the seat of the Gaptain-deneral and of an Archbishop, lies in
the midst of the monotonous plateau of North Castile, on both hanks
of the Arlanzdn, an insignificant stream subject to dangerous in-
undations. The city, "with its 31,600 inhab., presses closely on a
hill (300 ft.) surmounted by the ruins of an old castle. At the S. W.
base of this hill, on a site partly hollowed out in It, stands the
cathedral, one of the marvels of the Gothic architecture of Spain.
The city is surrounded by promenades. The fertile plain around
Burgos, in the midst of which lies Las Huelgas (p. 34), is watered
by the various channels through which the Pico brook (N.W.) is
led and by the ramifications of the Arlanz6n. — The summer at
Burgos is excessively warm, but for the greater part of the year the
climate is one of the coldest in Spain. While exposed in summer
to the torrid S. wind, it is visited at other seasons by the prevail-
ing N.W. and N.E. winds, which bring the cool air f^om the moun-
tains to the N. Burgos, and not Madrid, is the true source of the
popular phrase: nueve meses de inviernOj tres de infiemo (p. 62).
The Italian Navagero, in his 'Viaggio in Ispagna' (Padua, 1718),
asserts that 'the sun, like everything else, has to be imported into
Burgos'. Snow has been known to fall here at the end of June. *
The History of Burgos is closely connected with that of Leon and Old
Castile. A special charm belongs to it as the home of the national hero
of Spain, that singular condottiere Rodrigo (Ruy) Diaz de Vivar (1026-99),
known as the Spanish Campeador (or champion), with the Arabic saflix
el dd (Bidij Said = lord). We can still tread the ^solar' ('casa sola') on
which stood the house in which he was born, and we may visit his re-
mains in the town-hall (p. 27), where they now repose (since 1883), after
having been originally buried in the convent of Gardena (p. 86) and then
undergoing a series of strange vicissitudes, including a partial transportation
to Sigmaringen in Germany. About 6 M. to the N. of Burgos lies the
village of Vivar, whence the Cid took his name. In the church of Santa
Agueda (p. 32) King Alfonso VI. swore solemnly to the Cid that he was
not the murderer of his brother Sancho (comp. Sou^ey"* 'Chronicle of the
Cid\ III. 11). Ximena, wife of the Cid, lived in a small house near the
convent of Cardena from the fall of Valencia (p. 254) till 1104.
According to tradition Burgos was founded in 884 by Diego Rodriguez
Forcelot, a Castilian count. At first it was under the protection of Asturias.
However, after Ordono II. had massacred the descendants of Porcelos, the
city adopted a republican form of government and elected its own ^Ma-
gistrados\ the first of whom are said to have been ^vHo Ratura and Lain
Calvo. In the time of Feman Gonzalez (p. 32) it became capital of the
countship of Castile. Later it passed by marriage to the united kingdoms
of Leon and Castile and was selected as the capital of Old Castile. In 1074
it was made the seat of a bishop, instead of Auca (now Oca), but It lost
much of its splendour when the royal residence was transferred to Toledo
in 1067. It joined the Comuneros (p. 6'3), but appeased the wrath of
Charles V. by building the triumphal gate of Santa Haria (p. 27). Thencefor-
ward Burgos merely vegetated ; 'nothing remains except its name'' says a
writer of the 17th century. In modern times, however, there has been
some improvement \ and Burgos now makes the impression of a well-kept
ftnd thriving town.
CATEDRAL DE BURGOS
Metros
Plaza
SaiLta ^aria
i CapiRa. djel Santisinu) Crista 6 CapiUfl dbt Sait Gregorio
2 « deSanJiiarLdeSeihctffiui 7 " dBlobAsunjOj&n-
^RfiUario 8 " deloLNatinSLad.
^CapHladelaVigUacioTi 0 * deSa/tNieoloM
^ " de SanEnriifue- tOEscalan. Dorado.
Caghedrak BUROOa 3, Route. 27
In 1812 WelUnftOB beaieged Bargoa foor times without success, but it
surrendered to bim tbe following year.
From the railway-station (PI. C, 5) an avenue leads to the N. to
the river Arlanzdn^ here bridled by a weir (presaj. Opposite , on
the tight bank, are the Pa»eo de la hla (p. 32) and tbe Palaeio de
JtuUeiOy erected in 1878-83. To the right, on the left bank of the
river, in the Plaza del Instituto, is the former CoUgio de San Nieola$y
containing tbe JfutUuio Provincial (PI. D, 4), a technical academy.
Fine view of Hnd cathedral. Farther to the right, in the Gontrada de
la Merced, is the old Convtnto de la Merced^ now the Military Hos"
piUd (Pi. E, 4).
The PuenU de Santa Maria (PL £, 3, 4), with its seven arches,
leads across the river to the handsome Paieo del Espoloa Vicjo
(PL £, 3), which contains the Theatre (PL F, 3) and several of the
'Reyes' (see p. 96) presented by Charles lil. in 1747. On the N.
side of the Espolon, with ito main facade towards the Plaza Mayor,
stands the Caia Contiitorial (town-ball; PL £, 3), built by Qonzaltt
de Lara in 1788. The Saldn de Seeionea contains the rough wooden
chairs of the early 'Jueces^ Nuuo Basura and Lain Calvo (p. 26).
The bones of the Oid and Ximena (p. 26) are preserved in the Capilla,
The picturesque Plaza Matob (PL £, F, 3), with its shops and
arcades, is in the form of an irregular pentagon, in the middle of
which rises a Statue of CharUa IJL, by Antonio Tomtf (1784).
At the W. end of the Espolon sUnds the Arco de Santa Maria
(PL E, 3), a curious gateway, erected in 1536-52, flanked by semi-
circular towers and adorned with pinnacles and with statues of
Nuno Baeuray Lain Calvo, Diego Poreelotj Feman Qonaudez, the Cid^
and Charlee K. Above is a balustrade with the 'plus ultra' columns
of Charles V. and the guardian angel of Burgos. Over the arch is an
image of the Virgin Mary. Iir the interior is a small Museum, con-
taining the Tomb of Juan de Padilla from the convent of Fres de
Val (p. 36), a Roman Statue from Salonica, a Viaigothic Tomb of the
6th cent., and a bronze Altar Front from the convent of Santo Do-
mingo de Silos (fee ^/^-i p.)-
TIlo short street running hence to the N.W. leads to the Plaza
de Sarmental, virlth the Arehiepi$cop<U Palace (PL E, 3), and to the
small Plaza de Santa Maria (PL 2; D, 3). We now find ourselves
in front of the imposing W. facade of the cathedral. To the left,
above us, is the church of San Nicolas (p. 31).
The ^^Cathedral (PL J), £, 3 ; comp. also the ground-plan ot
the interior), constructed of the white, marble-like limestone of
Ontoria, was founded on July 20th, 1221, by Ferdinand UI. ('el
Santo') and Bishop Maurice, an Englishman. It therefore originated
in the best period of the Gothic style, though it was not finished
for more than 300 years. The towers of the main facade were built
in 1442-58 by Juan de Colonia (John of Cologne); the octagonal
lantern above the crossing was completed by Philip VigarnCy a Bur-
28 BouUa. BURGOS. Cathedral.
gun dial), in 1567, to replace a brick stmcture that had collapsed in
1539. The lowest part of the W. facade -was remodelled in the
Renaissance style in 1790. — We hegln our inspection of the
cathedral by walking round the outside. The principal (S.W.)
facade has three entrances. In the middle is the Puerta Principal,
adorned with statues of Ferdinand III., Alfonso YI. (these two from
the old building), Bishop Maurice, and Bishop Asterio de Oca.
The two smaller doors to the right and left are adorned with re-
liefs of the Coronation of the Virgin and the Conception, by Juan
de Pove$ (1663). Above the central doorway is a large rose- window,
and above this, in the third stage of the facade, are two large Qothic
windows. To the right and left, at the ends of the aisles, the two
Towers y also with graceful window -openings, rise to a height of
275 ft. Above the pinnacled galleries they end in crocketed spires,
originally surmounted by statues of SS. Peter and Paul. The best
♦View of this facade Is obtained f^om the church of San Nicolas
(p. 31). In the Calle de Feman Gonzalez is the N.W. portal (gener-
ally closed), the so-called Ptierta de la Coroneria (13th cent.),
whence the *golden staircase' (p. 30) descends to the transept of the
cathedral, about 30 ft. below. The portal, which is also known as
the Puerta Alia or Puerta de los Apdstolet, U profusely adorned
with sculpture. The N. door of the same transept, named P^rta
de la Pellejeria from its position at the end of the ^Street of the
Furriers', was built by Francisco de Colonia in 1516 and is in the
florid Renaissance style. We now walk round the N.E. end of the
church and the cloisters till we reach the Puerta del Sarmenlal, or
door of the S. transept, a lavishly decorated Gothic work, named
after a family that owned the adjoining houses. Perhaps the most
imposing feature of the whole exterior is the octagonal CimboriOy
or lantern above the central crossing, which terminates in eight
crocketed and perforated pinnacles adorned with statues.
4t is not a little curious, and perhaps not very gratifying to the amour
propre of Spanish artists, that in this great church the two periods in
which the most artistic vigour was shown, and the grandest architectural
works undertaken, were marked, the first by the rule of a well-travelled
bishop — commonly said to be an Englishman — under an English princess,
and who seems to have employed an Angevine architect^ and the second
by the rule of another travelled bishop, who, coming home from Germany,
brought with him a German architect, into whose hands all the great
works in the city seem at once to have been put* ('Gothic Architecture in
Spain\ by G. E. Street).
The *Intbbiob (open all day ; fee for opening the closed chapels
1-2 p.), which is 30b ft. long, not including the Condestable chapel,
is remarkable for the lofty, spacious effect of its proportions. The
early-Gothic nave and aisles, somewhat disflgared by the unsightly
core (p. 29), have a joint width of 82 ft.; the transept, 194 ft. long,
is surmounted by Vigamfs octagon, 165 ft. in height; the £. end
of the church proper is formed by the Capilla Mayor, with its am-
bulatory. Numerous chapels, all, except that of San Nicolas (p, 31),
CaOUdraL BURGOS. 3. Rmde. 29
of later date, sorroiind the church uniymmetrically bat Dot un-
picturesquely. The old Btained-glass windows were destroyed by
a powder-explosion in the Castillo (p. 32) in 1813, and have been
mostly replaced by medem gUss made at Munich.
The ^OcTAOOM, which is borne by four masslTc and richly
decorated piers, is Gothic in conception but shows many Renais-
sance details.
The four pi«n aad the four huge Areot Toratet support an oeiagonal
dnun, aboTe which rises a dome. The walls of the octagon are adorned
with the arms of Charles V. and the city of Burgos, with figures of
patriareha nnd prophets, and with many other sculptures. Bound it run
two horixontal galleries and two rows of windows. In the angles are large
figures of seraphim. The groined roofs of the transept, adjoinlag the
octagon, are Tery elegant and picturesque.
The CoBo, built in 1497-1612, is of unusual height and inter-
feres more than is ordinarily the case with the general effect. The two
rows of SiUeria (choir-stalls); by Philip Yigarnf, are elaborately
carved with scenes firom the Bible, the lives of the Martyrs, and so
on. In the centre of the coro, which is enclosed by a magnificent
nja of 1602, is the monument of Bishop Maurice (d. 1238 ; p. 271.
The screened passages leading to the caplUa mayor date fh)m 1679.
The retablo of the high-altar in the Cap£lla Mayor was ex-
eoQted by the brothers Bodrigo and Martin del Baya in the Renais-
sance style in 1577-93, and is richly gilded. The TnU'Sagrarioj
behind the altar, contains tine Reliefs of the Passion in white stone ;
the three in the middle are by Philip Yigarnf (1540) and are better
than the others.
A Tisit to all the fifteen ehapels occupies a considerable time.
The following enumeration begins in the right (S.) aisle.
The Gafilla dbl Santisimo Gristo (PL 1) is so named from
the 'Gristo de Burgos*, a celebrated image of the crucified Sayiour,
popukrly supposed to consist of a dried and stuffed human body.
The Capilla db la pKBrnrrACioK , built in 1520 et seq. by
Canon Gonzalo de Lerma, contains the tombs of the founder (in the
nuddle) and of Canon Jacobo de Bilbao (by the pillar at the en-
tianee). The ^Altar-pieee (generally covered) is a Virgin and Child
^ 8eba$Uan del Plonio, painted at Rome about 1520 under the in-
fluence of Michael Angelo.
The Capilla db Sait Juan db Sahaoun (PI. 2) contains the
tomb of Be&to Lesmes (^hijo de Burgos; abogado del dolor de
rinones", i.e. appealed to by sufferers flrom disease of the kidneys)
and six paintings of the Flemish-Spanish school of the 15th cent,
(master unknown). — Adjacent is the Belicario (PI. 3), with a
highly-revered image of the Yirgen de Oca.
We now reach the S. transept, with its magnificent rose-window,
wd fh)m it enter the Capilla db la Vmitacion (PL 4), built in
1442, probably by Juan de Colonia (p. 27). In the middle is the
^Monument of Bishop Alonso de Cartagena (d. 1456), the founder
30 Routes. BURGOS. Catkedrai.
of the ohapel, by Oil de 8Uoe. — Opposite this chapel is the Puerta
del Claustro (p. 31).
The first chapel in the ambulatory is th« Gapilla db San Ew&i-
QUE (PI. 5), with the tomb of its founder, Archbishop Enrique de
Peralta (d. 1679).
Beyond this are the Sacristia Nueva and the large Oapili«a i>s
Santiaqo. The latter, built by Juan de VaUejo in 1524-34, is used
as a parish-ohuroh and so is usually open. It contains representa-
tions of St. James and a number of tombs.
Behind the presbytery opens the large Gothic ♦Capilla dbi.
OoNDBSTABi/B, built by Simon de Colonia, son of Juan, in 1462 et
seq. for Constable Pedro Hernandez de Velasco^ Count de Haro, It is
entered by a fine Portal, screened by an admirable reja by Cristobal
Andino (1623). The vaulting of the chapel is pierced with the most
elaborate tracery, and the windows, between which hang two ban-
ners of the Constable, contain old stained glass. The high-altar is
adorned with fine reliefs and sculptures. The smaller winged altar
to the right, with good paintings of the Virgin and Child, the Adora-
tion of the Child, and the Presentation in the Temple, is by a
Tlemish master. In front of the altar are the magnificent ♦Tombs
of the Constable (d. 1492), who was also Viceroy of Castile, and his
wife, the Senora Dona Mencia de Mendoza^ Condesa de Haro (d. 1600).
The sarcophagi are of marble from the adjacent Sierra de Atapuerca ;
the figures (that of the Constable in full armour) are of Carrara
marble. The artist is not known. On the walls are portraits of the
Conde and Condesa, with the arms of Navarre, Castile, and Leon
(chains, crosses, and bells). The heavy slab of Atapuerca marble ad-
joining the monuments was also intended for a tombstone. — The
Sacristy of this chapel contains a painting of the Penitent Magdalen
hy Oiovanni Pedrini , a pupil of Leonardo da Vinci; the exquisite
little portable altar of the Constable, in ivory; and a fine alabaster
relief of the Virgin and Child (16th cent.).
The following chapels are unimportant. — At the angle between
the ambulatory and the N. transept is the handsome late-Gothic mural
monument of Archdeacon Pedro Fernandez de Villegas (d. 1636).
In the old Capilla db San Nicolas (PI. 9), by the left wall,
are the tomb of Bishop Juan de Villahoz (d. 1275) and a portrait of
Pope Alexander VI. (Borgia; 1492-1503), at one time a oanon of
Burgos Cathedral.
At the end of the N. transept is the great *£8Calbba Dorada
(PI. 10), a flight of 39 steps, built by Dieffo de Siloe in 1519 and
ascending to the Puerta de la Coroneria (p. 2^. It is adorned with
the arms of the founder, Bishop Fonseca. The balustrades are
heavily gilt.
At the E. end of the N. aisle is the Capilla db Santa Ana,
built by Simon de Colonia (see above) in 1477-88. In the oentre is
the tomb of the founder, Bishop Luis Osorio de AcuTia (d. 1495) ; to
San Nieolds. BUROOS. 3. RouU. 34
the left is that of Archdeacon Fernando Diez de Fnente Pelayo
(d. 1492). The handsome retablo of the high-altar, richly f;\\t and
punted, exhibits the |cenealo|ncal tree of Christ springing from the
breast of Abraham. The only picture of value is a Holy Family by
Andrea del Sario of Florence.
The GaPii^LA bb Sakta Tbola, a rococo structure of 1736, has a
large high-altar and a gorgeously painted cupola (media naranja).
In the nave« near the U«t-nanied chapel, above the first triroriiim, is
a Clocky probably dating from 1519, with the popular flgure of I\ipa Moutu^
which i.4 joined, when four o*clock strikes, by another named Martinillo.
The noble Gothic *Cloibtbb8 (^Claustro; open all day) date
from the 14tli century. They are entered by the Pueria del Ciaustro
(p. 30), which is adorned with figures of the Annunciation (left)
and David and Isaiab (right), a bust of St. Francis of Assisi, and a
relief of the Baptism of Christ. The ancient wooden door is carved
with reliefs of Christ entering Jerusalem and Christ in Hades. The
cloisters contain many statues and tombs. Among the best of these
are the statues of Ferdinand the Saint (p. 27) and his wife Beatrice
of Swabia (13th cent.), on the N. wall, adjoining the entrance } and
the tomb of Diego de Santander (d. 16*23), ascribed to Diego de
Siloe (?), with a relief of the Virgin and Child (S. wall).The beau-
tiful tracery in the arches of the cloisters is artistically coloured.
From the E. walk of the cloisters we enter the ancient Capilla
i)BL GoBPUs Cbisti or de Juan CuchiUer^ containing the tomb of
this *head cook' of Henry HI. f^el Doliente') and that of Miguel
Esteban del Hnerto del Key (d. 12&3) and his wife Uzenda (d. 1296),
Condes de Castaneda. Fastened to the K. wall is the celebrated
Coffer of the Cid^ 'la doyenne des malles du monde', as Th. Gautier
calls it, which the Campeador filled with sand and pledged for
600 marks to the Burgos Jews Rachel and Vidaa^ who supposed it to
contain gold or valuables. It is satisfactory to add that the Cid
honestly redeemed his pledge. — Adjacent is the Sala Capitular,
or chapter-house, dating from 1596 and containing an artesonado
ceiling, an altar-piece ('el Cristo de la AgoniV) ascribed to Dorn.
Theotoc6pulif a Flemish triptych, and other paintings (15th cent.).
The small Gothic church of 8aa ]lieol4t (PI. D, 3 ; sacristan,
r^alle Cabeatreros 3), dating from 1505, consists of a nave and
aisles, divided by pillars and roofed with fine vaulting. The 'high
ckoir', on the W. side, rests on four sculptured arches and has a
beautiful balustrade. In the left aisle are three Gothic tombs of the
Maluenda family (with their arms) and a retablo with eight paint-
ings. A large arch adorned with the heads of angels leads to the
*High AUar, which is lavishly adorned with reliefs of scenes from
the Bible and the life of St. Nicholas. Below, to the left, are the
founder and the institution of the Last Supper; to the right, the
founder's wife and Christ on the Mt. of Olives. To the right and
32 RouU3. BURGOS. Ca$UUo.
left of the altar are the tomhs of Alfonso Polanco (d. 1412) and
Oonzalo Polanco (d. 1605), with their wives.
A little to the N. and somewhat higher up is the Gothic church
of San Sitiban (PLD, £, 2, 3), hoUt in 1280-1360, with a fine W.
doorway surmounted by a rose- window. Inside, to the left of the
entrance, is a small Gothic chapel over the font. In the nave, to the
left, below the organ-gallery, is a fine Renaissance recess, with a
relief of the Last Supper. Adjacent is the pulpit The S. aisle con-
tains a similar recess, with two sarcophagi and a relief of the Scourg-
ing of Christ. Here also is a Renaissance portal. Above the door
of the Sacristy is a painting of the Last Supper , with a Cuflc in-
scription (14th cent.). — The CloUten, to the S. of the church,
call for no remark.
From San Est^an we ascend in 5 min. to the Caitillo (PI. G,
D, 2), which commands a fine view of the city, the valley of the
Arlanz6n, the Gartuja, and the mountains to the S.£. This was the
residence of the mighty Feman Gonzalez, Count of Castile (d. 970),
who strove to maintain his independence of Leon ; and it was after-
wards the seat of the Castilian kings. The Cid was here married to
Ximena in 1074, and Edward I. of England to Eleanor of Castile in
1264. The principal apartments were destroyed by Are in 1736.
but in 1812 the French were able to defend the fortress successfully
against the Duke of Wellington.
Descending from the castle towards the S., we reach the Arco dt
Feman Gonzalez (PI. C, 3), a triumphal arch erected by Philip II.
in honour of this great Burgalese (see above). To the N.W. of the
arch lies the Cementerio (PI. C, 3), with its * niche-graves' (comp.
p. 210) and numerous cypresses. Opposite the cemetery is the mon-
ument of Qen. Juan Martin Diez (1776-1826), *el Empecinado'. On
the road to the N.W. of the cemetery are three Stone Monuments,
erected in 1784 and bearing the arms of Castile and the Cid (p. 26) ;
these mark the site of the Solmr del Cid (PI. C, 2), or plot on which
stood the house where that doughty warrior was born (1026). —
The cemetery is here bounded by the old wall of the Oubos. By
descending along the outside of this, we reach the *P<ueo de los
Oubos (PI. B, C, 3), the semicircular towers (eubos) in which afford
an excellent idea of the style of the old Castilian fortifications.
The FOteo de la Ula (PI. A, B, 3), to the S.W. of this point, on the
river, leads to (1 M.) the PuefUe de Malatos (PI. A, 2, 3) and to (Vt M.)
the convent of Las Huelgat (p. 34).
From the Paseo de los Cubos the Calle de la Ronda leads to the
E. to the church of Santa Agneda or Gadia (PI. D, 3 ; sacristan on
the E. side of the church, opposite the Seminario de San Jerdnimo;
fee 60 c.), an aisleless Gothic edifice, famous for the ^Jura en Santa
Oadea% or oath which Alfonso VI. was compelled by the Cid to
take before his accession to the throne (p. 26). The king took the
oath three times: first by the cross at the entrance, then by the bolt
of the door ('cerrojo*; now preserved inside, to the left), and lastly
Casa de Miranda, BURGOS. 3. Route, 33
by the Gospels on the high-alUi. Alfonso wm at first unwilling
to take the oath, until a knight exdaimed: *take the oath and fear
nought ; never was a king fonnd guilty of perjury or a pope ex-
communicated'. To the S. of the high -altar is the tomh of the
founder of the church.
We next proceed to the S.E., passing the S. side of the cathedral,
and then follow the busy Calle de la Paloma and Calle de Lain Calvo
(PI. E, F, 3, 2) towards the N.£. The last side-street to the left in
the Utter brings us to the church of Ban Oil (PI. £, F, 2), a building
of the 14th cent., containing some interesting tombs and pictures.
The high-altar in the CapUla de la NaUvidad (second to the left,
eoanted from the entrance) is adorned with, scenes from the life of
the Virgin. The next chapel contains a Santiaimo Ort«(o, which
claims to be a more authentic original than that in the cathedral
(p. 29). By the entrance to the sacristy are two paintings by Raphael
Menga. The Iron PidpH, at the N.W. pier of the crossing, is adorned
with fine Gothic tracery and surmounted by a canopy.
We now return through the Calle de los Avellanos to the former
Audieneia (PI. F, 2 ; now a barrack), with its fine patio. To the N.E.
lie the Arena for BuU Fight$ (PI. G, 2 ; p. 26) and the shady Paseo
de los VadiUoe (PI. G, H, 1).
The Casa del Cord6n (PI. F, 3), now the Capitanfd General^ built
at the end of the 16th cent, by the Constable de Velasco (p. 30),
lies in the Plaza de la Libertad and occupies almost a whole block.
The arms of the builder and those of his wife , a member of the
Mendoza family (p. 30), are shown on every available space, con-
nected by the *cordon' of the Franciscans (p. 120). An imposing idea
of its former magnificence is still afforded by the facade with its
square-headed portal and by the numerous crockets, flnials, and
figures. The Porch leading to the court has some curious adorn-
ments, and the Patio itself is surrounded by a beautiful frieze and
by an arcade resting on 16 pillars. The interior contains several
portraits of members of the Yelasco family.
Our route now crosses the Plaza de Prim (PI. F, 3), in the
middle of which is a tasteftil fountain, and then leads past the Palacio
de la Diputacidn Provincial (PI. 1 ; F, 3) and the Theatre (p. 26) to
the Puente de San Pablo (PI. F, 3, 4), here crossing the Arlanzon.
In the Barrio de Vega, on the other side of the river, the long Pa^eo
de la Quinta (PI. G, H, 4) leads to the left to the Cartuja (p. 36).
To the right is the Paseo del Espolon Nuevo (PI. E, F, 4), which af-
fords an admirable view of the city. In front of us is the Calle de
San Pablo, leading to the Calle de la Calera (PL F, 4), in which
are two interesting palaces. The Caia de Angulo (No. 27) has an
imposing facade, flanked by two towers. In the middle is a large
doorway, surmounted by a richly decorated window, and there are
similar windows in each of the lateral facades. The *Cata de Mi-
randa (No. 29), dating from 1643, gives, even in its present dilar
Baeoekeb's Spain. 3
34 Route 3. BURGOS. Excursions.
idated condition, a still better idea than the Oasa det Gordon of the
former importance of the ancient noblesse of Castile.
The Fronts notable for its simplicity^ is flanked by small drcnlsr
towers with finials and gargoyles (gdrgoUu). The Main Doorway is enclosed
. by Corinthian columns and richly sculptured. The Entrance HaU is con-
nected by an archway with an Ante-Room^ giving on the patio or court.
This is surmounted by an octagon borne by four arches, and orer this is
a dome. Each of the four spandrels is filled in with a large shell. The
Patio is surrounded by eighteen columns with a kind of Corinthian cap-
ital, supplemented by side-brackets to support the architrave. The columns
of the second stage are similar but plainer. Bound this runs a charming
frieze with figures, medallions, and coats-of-arms, and higher up is a
second frieze. In the arms appears the word *paz\ The handsome Portal
to the Staireate is enriched with sculptured columns, armorial bearings,
and friezes of amoretii. - The barrel -vaulting over the staircas^e should
also be noticed.
ExcuBsioNB. 1. The Beal Honasterio de lasHuelgas lies about
11/4 M. to the S.W. of Burgos (comp. p. 32 and the inset on the
plan of Burgos ; noon the best hour). — The Buelgas ('plaisirs*,
'pleasure-grounds'), originally a summer chateau of the kings of
Castile fUuelgasdelBcy), was converted by Alfonso VIII. (1187) into
a Cistercian nunnery for noble ladies and endowed with enormous
revenues and extraordinary privileges. The Abbess *por la gracia
de Dies' enjoyed, as 'Sefiora de horca y cuchiUo\ the power of life
and death; the nuns, the number of whom since 1257 has been 100,
are not styled 'sores' ('sisters') but 'sefioras dofias'. Many royal
personages are buried here, including Alfonso VIII. and his wife
Eleanor, daughter of Henry II. of England. Edward I. of England
was knighted here by Alonso the Learned. The banner of the Almo-
hades, captured at the battle of Las Navas de Tolosa, is preserved at
the convent.
The entrance to the convent -enclosure is formed by the five-arched
Porteria, above which rises a handsome Tower. The Church was built in
a severe Gothic style by Ferdinand III. in 1279. Men are not allowed to
enter the nave, but may look at it through the iron screen. High mass,
attended by the nuns, is celebrated every morning in the Coro de las
Monjae. The interesting Capitta de Santiago contains a statue of St, James.
— The Gothic Cloisters^ built by St. Ferdinand, contain some good monu-
ments, but are seldom accessible ; in the ClavstriUo are fine Romanesque
capitals and arches, — The Sala Capitular^ with a vaulted roof borne by
four columns, is never shown.
The Hospital del Eey, an institution for pilgrims, Y2 M. beyond
Las Huelgas, has a fine doorway and a picturesque patio in the
plateresque style. The church is uninteresting.
Walkers should follow the left bank of the Arlanz6n from the Puente de
Santa 3Iaria (p. 27) to Las Huelgas, and return vii the Puente de Afalatos
and the Paseo de los Cubos or the Pa«eo de la Isla (p. 32). This round,
which takes about IV4 hr. on foot, may also be made by carriage.
2. The Cartoja deMiraflores» situated on a bare hill 2^4 M. to
the N.E. of Burgos, should be visited for the sake of its monuments
(open on week-days, 9-11, 12.15-2.30, and 4-7). Carriage about
op. — "Walkers follow the shady Paseo de la Quinta (p. 3S) to
Examioru. BURGOS. 3, Rtmte, 35
(3/4 M.l the FkieHie, */« ^' beyond which, near the cnfl of the paseo,
they take the hroad road leading to the right to (V4M.) the rail-
way. After crossing the track, they keep to the left and in *i mln.
reach the Area de la VUja^ which formed the entrance to Henry III.'s
deer-park and chitean of Miraflores. The letters oyer the gate are
the initials of * Jesus Christiu Redemptor Bex Begum'. About >/4 M.
farther on^ at the old oonyent-farm, we take the route to the left,
which leads to (VsM.) the >-
Cartiga, a Carthusian convent founded by King John II. on the
site of the royal ch&teau, and rebuilt in 1464 et seq., after a fire,
by John of Cologne (p. 27) and his son Simon. It is still occupied
by about thirty monks. 'We pass through a Portal into a cloistered
court, at the end of which, to the right, is the PorUriaf where
visitors ring (fee 1 p.).
The aisleless Gothic *Chubch is divided into three parts: the
westernmost for the people, the middle one for the lay monks (Ugot)^
and the easternmost for the priests (iacerdotes). The late-Gothic
'silleria' in the last section is by Martin Sanchct (1488), and the
Renaissance stalls in the central section are by Sim<m de Butrat (1568).
The large and lavishly gilded retablo of the high-altar, with its
numerous statues, is by Gil de Siloe and Diego de la Cru% (1486-99).
In the middle are a crucifix and a pelican feeding its young with
its own blood (a symbol of the sacrifice of Christ) j below are kneel-
ing figures of John 11. and Isabella of Portugal, his second wife.
In front of the high-altar is the superb marhle ♦♦Monument of the
same monarchs, a masterpiece of Qil de Siloe (1489-93), erected by
their daughter Isabella the Catholic, who succeeded to the throne
through the death of the Infante Alonso. This is, perhaps, the finest
monument of its kind, perfect both in design and execution, though,
doubtless, lacking the dignified simplicity of the royal tombs at
Granada or Alcoba^a.
The monnmeiit is octagonal (or, rather, sixteen-sided) in form, and
its general appearance is somewhat snggestive of a crown. Bound the
sides are statnettes (each a masterpiece in itselO under delicate canopies,
sixteen lions bearing escnteheonji, reliefs of i«cenes from the New Testa-
ment, and figures of the cardinal virtaes. Round the top is a double
cornice of foli^e, birda, and animals. At the four chief angles are seated
figures of the Evangelists. The recumbent effigy of the king has a ring
on the right hand and holds a sceptre ; that of the queen holds a prayer
book. At their heads are elaborate eanopie.«. At the feet of the king are
two lions, at those of the queen a lion and a dog. Between the figures
is a low marble railing.
Of scarcely less importance is the adjoining ♦Monument of the
Infante Alonso (d. 1470, at the age of sixteen), also by Oil de Siloe
(N. waU).
Tbis monument sfand<< in a recess exuberanlly adorned with inter-
lacing foliage, animals of various kinds, putti, figures of saints, lions,
and coat«-of-arma. Within the arch is the kneeling figure of the young
prince in a richly embroidered dress. Below are the arms of Castile and
I^n; above is the Annunciation.
In the chapel of St. Bruno' is a ♦Statue of this saint, by Man*
3^
36 BouU4 VALLADOLID. HoUls,
Pereira of Portugal, formerly in the cathedral ; bo lifelike is this
figure that Philip IV. said of it: *he does not speak, but only because
he is a Carthusian mouk\
The Graveyard and Cells of the monks are interesting, but are
Beldom shown.
3. The convent of San Pedro de Cardefta, in a desolate valley
6 M. beyond the Cartuja, is well known as the place of burial of
the Gid and Ximena. His last will and testament ordained his
interment here: — j san Fedro de Carde»a
Mando que mi cuerpo lleven.
The convent was founded in 537 by Queen Sancha^ mother of King
Theodoric, and is in a very neglected coudition. The monument
of the Cid and his wife, formerly in front of the high-altar, is now
in a side-chapel; it is inscribed with a great number of famous
names, all borne by descendants of the Cid. The bones of the Cid
and Ximena now rest in the town-hall of Burgos (p. 27). — Babieca,
the favourite charger of the Cid, is said to have been buried near
the gateway of the convent.
4. Those who stay long enough at Burgos should visit the convent
of Fres de Val, 3^/4 M. to the N. , on the way to Santander. Once
the superb burial-place of the Padillas, it is now a breweryj but the
architectural remains and monuments are still full of interest.
4. YaUadolid.
BaUway Stations. 1. Estacidn del Norte (PI. A, B,5), for the N. Bail-
way from Irun to Madrid (BR. 1 and 6) aod for the railway to Ariza (p. 18).
— 2. Eetaeidn del Ferrocarril a Medina de Rioeeco (PI. A, 5), for the branch
railway mentioned at p. 18.
Hotels (comp. p. xx). ^Fbancia (PL a; B, 4), Calle de Teresa Gil 23,
B. 2V2, L. 3, D. 31/2, pens. 8-10 p.^ Siqlo (PI. b; B, 3), Calle Dona Maria
de Molina 2. — Railway Rentaurant^ in the Estaciun del Iforte.
Post Office iCorreo; PI. B, 4), Calle Mendi^abal. — Telegraph Office
(PI. B, 3), Calle de Dona Maria de Molina.
Tramway from the Estad&n del Norte via the Plaza de la ConstitnoitSn
to the Bull Ring (PI. B, 2, 3).
Theatres. Teatro de Calderon (PI. 9; C, 3); Teatro de Lope. — Bull
Bing (Plaza de Torot: PI. B, 2, 3), for 6000 spectators.
VaUadoUd (2270 ft.), Arabic Belad-Walid ('town of the gov-
ernor'), the seat of an archbishop and the capital of the old Leonine
province of the same name, lies in a spacious and fertile plain, on
the left bank of the Pisuerga, which is here joined by the Canal of
Castile (PI. A, 1 ; p. 18) and by the Esyueva. The last flows through
the town in two arms, which are partly covered in. Pop. 58,9()0.
In history Valladolid is famous as a favourite residence of the sov-
ereigns of Castile. Ferdinand and Isabella were married here in
1469. Under Philip II. YaUadolid was for a time the royal head-quar-
ters and the capital of the great Spanish empire (comp. pp. 129,
64). Its present importance is derived from its commerce. — It was
at Yaliadodid that Gil Bias practised medicine under Dr. Sangrado.
Cafkedral. YALLADOLTD. 4. Route. 37
From the Ettaddn del Norte (PI. A, B, 5) the Aoera de Recoletos
leads to the N., passing (left) tlie triangular ^Oanpo Oimade (PI. A,
4, 5), the finest park in the city, to a bridge over the Esgneva. In
the Galle de Mignel Isear, diyerging to the right, is the dilapidated
Home of Cervantes (PI. 1, B 4 ; p. 107), occupied by the immortal
Dovelist from 1603 to 1606. It now belongs to the state.
The Calle de Santiago, continuing the Acera de Recoletos, leads
to the N.E. to the Plaza Mayor or Ptavi de la ConstitueiOn (PI. B, 3 ),
the focus of the city's life, containing many shops and the insigni-
ficant Oa$a de i4yfmtamiento. — To the £. of this square lie the
Plaza de la ¥uente Dorada (PI. B, 3) and the small Plasa del Ocbavo,
where Alvaro de Utna (p. 137) was executed in 1463. — A little
farther to the £., in the Plaza de Portugalete, rises the —
Cftthedrml (PI. G, 3, 4), a strnoture in the late-Renaissance style,
begun hyJuon de Herrera (p. 110) in 1585 and afterwards continued
by Churriguera. According to Herrera's design the church was to
consist of nave and choir, furnished with aisles, and separated by
a dome-covered transept; both sides were to be flanked with rows
of chapels, and there were to be four towers at the comers. The
building, however, remained a fragment, and the only completed
tower ( now being rebuilt) fell in in 1841. The interior is 402 ft.
long and 207 ft. wide. The fine choir-stalls are partly in the Gothic
style and transferred from the old cathedral, partly in the Renais-
sance style and designed by Herrera for the ohurch of San Pablo
( p. 38). Among the other contents are two paintings by Xuca Qior-
dano and the tomb of Count Pedro Arh»ure%, •— The sacristy contains
the masterpiece of Juan de Arphe : a solid silver ^Gustodia or mon-
strance, in the form of a temple, 6^/2 ft. in height and 140 lbs. in
weight; it is adorned with statuettes of Adam and Eve in the Gar-
den of Eden. — Herrera's original model of the cathedral is preserved
in the muniment-room.
Immediately to the E. of the cathedral is the|Plaza de Santa Maria
(PI. G, 3, 4), containing the church of * Santa Mairia la Antiinia
{ PI. 8), the most interesting edifice in the city. It was erected in
the 12r-13th cent, and has a lofty Romanesque steeple, with a high-
pitched roof adorned with red and green tiles. The early-Gothic
interior has a Coro Alto (gallery) on the W. wall, imposing circular
piers, and three parallel apses. The elaborate rotable of the high-
altar is by Juan de Jwni (1556). On the N. side of the church are
the remains of a Romanesque cloister.
The UniTenity (PI. G, 4), on the S. side of the plaza. Is a
building of the 17th cent., with a facade in the most extravagant
baroque style, adorned with statues. The number of students is
abont 1000. The university was founded at Palencia but transferred
to Valladolid by Ferdinand the Saint ; it did not, however, attain
any great importance till the 16th cent., after the decline of the uni-
versity of Salamanca. The Library contains 12,000 vols., including
38 RouUd. VALLADOLID.
a valuable collection of Bibles in different tongues; among the
400 MSS. is a splendid codex of the Commentary on the Apocalypse
by Beatus (970). — A little to the S. stands the old —
Colegio de Santa Gnu, built by Enrique de Egai in 1480-92,
some years earlier than his hospital of the same name at Toledo
(p. 141). It is a masterpiece of the plateresijue style, with strong
traces of Gothic influence. The interior contains a Museum (Pi. C, 4 ;
open daily, 10-2; catalogue 1 p.), which deserves a visit for its
collection of admirable sculptures in wood by Alonao de Btrruguete,
Juan de Junij and *Qregorio Hefnanda, and for two bronze statues
by Pompeo Leoni, an Italian mastM. A new room, lighted from
above, contains the choir-stalls from San Benito (p. 89) and a few
good paintings by modem Spanish artists. The numerous older
works are of little importance ; among them are three sadly damaged
paintings by Buhem^ from the convent of Fuensalda&a.
Hard by is the Calle de Cristobal Colon (PI. C, D, 4), No. 7 in
which, now marked by an inscription, is the dilapidated Casa de
Colon (PI. 2), where Christopher Columbus died on May 2l8t, 1506.
Farther on, to the right, is the church of La MagdaUna (PI. D, 4),
a building of 1570, the facade of which, bearing a huge coat-of-arms,
is described by Street as 'the ne plus ultra of heraldic absurdity'.
Beyond this are the large Hospital General and the attractive Prado
de la MagdaUna (PI. D, 3), intersected by an arm of the Esgueva.
Henoe we may proceed to theN.W. through the Calle de Gondo-
mar (PI. C, D, 3j to the Plaza de San Benito el Viejo, and then to
the W., through the Calle de San Gregorio (PL C, 3), to the old —
Colegio de San Gregorio (Pi. 3; C, 3), built in 1488-96, laid
waste by the French in the Spanish War of Independence, and now
occupied as municipal offices. The magnifloent late-Gothic Facade
Is lavishly adorned with statues, coats-of-arms, and ornaments. The
doorway is surmounted by a canopy which forms a genealogical tree
with the arms of the 'Catholic Kings'. The spacious Couri is sur-
rounded by arcades in the plateresque style; the soffits and window
panels in the upper story are an excellent example of the exuberant
wealth of this style, with its echoes of the Moorish fashion of decora-
tion. The stately Staircase and the artesonado ceiling of the former
Library should also be notioed. — In the same street, at the corner
of the Plaza de San Pablo (PI. C, 2, 3), stands the church of —
San Pablo (PI. 7; C, 3), founded in 1276, remodelled by Cardinal
Juan Torquemada in 1463, partly modernized by the Cardinal and
Duke of Lerma in the IZth cent., and freely restored after its devas-
tation by the French. The late-Gothic *Fa^adej rivalling in its
wealth of ornamentation that of San Gregorio, is covered with panels
full of figures and armorial bearings ; at the top are the arms of the
Duke of Lerma. It is flanked by two plain towers. The Cortes often
met in this church during the 15-16th centuries.
The Falacio Be&l (PI. C, 3j , opposite San Pablo, is an un-
PALENOIA. 5, Route, 39
inteiestuig ediilee of the 17th cent. ; in the court are some busts of
Roman emperors, ascribed to BermifutU, — We now proceed towards
the S. to the chorch of San Martin (,P1. 6 ; C, 3), a building of the
13th cent., with a high early- Gothlo steeple ; ^e interior has been
modernized. A little to the S. of this is the church of La» Angusiiaa
(PI. 4 \ C, 3), dating from 1604 and containing the much-admired
Tirgen de los Cucbillos*, by Juan de Juni.
To the W. of this point is the CkdU de la$ Platerias (PI. B, C, 3),
with the shops of numerous silversmiths, who, however, hardly
maintain the andent renown of the city for works in silver. Grossing
this street and proceeding farther to the W., we reach the Convento
dt San Benito (PI. B, 3), founded on the site of the Alcazar in 1389,
remodelled by Juan de Aranda about 1600, now used as a barrack
and in « sad state of neglect. The fine Gothic church, with its
eylindiieal piers and three polygonal apses, recalls the plan of Santa
Maria la Antigua (p. 37).
To the M.W. of San Benito is the pretty Etpolon Nueuo or Poico
de la9 Marerat (PI. B, 3, 2), extending along the Pisuerga to the
PuenU Mayor (PI. B, 2).
About 7 M. to tha 8.W. of VaUadolid, on the road to Salamanca,
lies Simanca$, the Roman SepUmanca^ with a^caatillo' in v\hich the arcbives
of Spain, eondating of SSmilUon docomenta in about 80,(J00 Megajos' (p. 897),
have been prewrved tiuM the days of Card. Ximenea. — On the Douro,
12 M. farther on, ia the old town of TmrdttiUaa^ the abode of Johanna the
Had after ber busband'a deatb, and the seat of the *" Junta ScuOa', or holy
league, of the Gomuneros (p. 63).
5. From Tenta de Banos (Madrid) to Santander.
145Vs M. Railway (Ferrocarriles del NwrU) in 7Vs*9 hrs. (fares 29 p. 70,
21 p. 05, 11 p. 95 e.)- f'^om Madrid to Santander, 816 M., one train {treu
corriOf witb tbrougb-carriagea) daily in lOVs brs. (fares 6i p. 75, 45 p. 15,
%p. 40 e.). In summer tbe iren eorrio performs the journey in 16 hrs.,
aad there ie also a slow train {trtn tnixto) taking ^ hrs. — Railway
restaurants at Venta de Bafiot and Eeinoea.
Venta de BoAos^ see p. 18. — The train turns towards the N.,
crosses the Canal de Lagranja^ and runs parallel to the river Carridn
and the Canal de CaetUla (pp. 18, 36), with the hiUs of Palencia
and Magaz to the left and right. To the left lie Calabazanos and
yiUamuriel de Cerrato, the latter with a Romano-Gothic church of
the 14th century.
10 M. Paleneia (^Cfran Hotel Continental^ Barrio Nuevo 14, an in-
different Spanish house, pens. 6-7 p., omn. at the station ; Cafe
Stttso, Mayor Principal 89 ; Poii and Telegraph Office^ Calle San Fran-
dseo ; Baths of Dr. Fuentes, Paseo de la Orilla del Rio), the capital
of a province and the see of a bishop, is a city of 15,000 inhab., situ-
ated on tihe left bank of the Carrion. It was originally founded by
the VacwBi, a Geltiberian tribe, and was not subdued by the Romans
without an obstinate resistance. During the 12th cent. Palencia
wag the seat of the Castilian kings and Cortes, and several church
40 Route 5. PALENOIA. From Venta de Bafios
councils were held here. In 1520 it took part in the Comanero
rebellion (p. 63), and its rlgorons castigation by Charles V. put
a term to its importance.
From the railway-station we cross the Plaza de Leon and follow
the Calle de la Vireina and the Calle del Emperador to the Plaza
San Antolfn, where the cathedral stands.
The *Gathbdbal is one of the finest examples of the second or
florid period of the Spanish pointed style (14-16th cent.), but the
exterior offers little of interest except the S. portal (Puerta del
Obispo), The interior, however, produces a singularly harmonious
impression, with its slender clustered columns, its delicately orna-
mented windows and triforia, and the fine vaulting of the nave.
The retablo of the high-altar is adorned with rich sculptures in the
plateresque style (1530). The custodia, exhibited only on Corpus
Ohristi Day, is by Juan de Benavente (1582). The beautiftil choir
stalls date from 1650. On the outside of the walls of the capilla
mayor are the tombs of the Abbots Diego de Guevara (Epistle side),
Francisco Nunez, and Rodrigo Enriquez (Gospel side), all of the
16th century. By the trascoro is a finely carved pulpit, and there
is a curious old clock in the S. transept. In the Capilla de Santa
Lucia is a picture by Zurbaran, St Catharine praying. The Sal a
Capitular contains some excellently preserved old Flemish tapestry
(tapices)^ representing the Adoration of the Magi, the Ascension,
the liaising of Lazarus, and the Seven Deadly Sins. The cloisters
have been partially built up and disfigured. The somewhat fatiguing
ascent of the tower (fee 1 p.) rewards the climber with a fine pano-
rama of the city, the hills of Oatero and San Juan, the river Cattion,
and the far-stretching Tierra de Campos. — Adjoining the cathe-
dral is the Hospital de San Antolin^ dating from the 12th century.
The parochial church of San Miguel (generally closed), in the
Calle Mayor. Antigua, is a Romano-Gothic building of the 13th cent.,
with a massive tower erected for purposes of defence. In the N. part
of the town (Plaza San Pablo) is the Dominican church of San Pablo
(15th cent.), with a Renaissance facade, fine yaulting over the nave
and aisles, and some interesting tombs, especially in the capilla
mayor.
The lunatic asylum of San Jnan de Dios (the former Hospicio de
San Lazaro), to the S.E., is said to have been the house of the Cid
(pp. 32, 36). — The Paseos del Salon and de los Frailes, to the S.
of the town, afford pleasant resorts for summer-evenings.
Excursions (by omnibus) may be made to (3M.) Fuentes de Valdepero^
the castle of which made a celebrated defence against the Comuneros
(1520), and to the (22 M.) picturesquely situated CaiTidn de los Condes^ the
ancestral seat of the doughty Counts of Carridn , whose prowess is cele-
brated in the Chronicle of the Cid. Here are the Romanesque church of
Santa Maria del Camino and the fine cloisters of the Benedictine convent
of San Zoilo (16th cent.).
Beyond Palencia the railway traverses the endless flats of the
Tierra de Campos. To the left lies HusiUos, one of the oldest abbeys
ioSantander, REINOSA. 5. Aoute. 41
in the kingdom of Leon (12th cent.). — 18 M. Mon%on de Campo9^
at the confluence of the Carrion and the Ucieza, was once a royal
residence but is now an impoverished village with a ruined chateau
(Palaeio de Altamira). To the N. and E. are barren heights crowned
by the ruined fastnesses of Castillo and Castillon. — We cro:>s the
Ucieza and pass several unimportant stations. To the W. of (88 M.)
Cabanas U a medisval watch-tower, 130 ft. high and with walls
13 ft. thick. It now belongs to the Marquis Villatorre.
Beyond (42 M.) Osomo the train cro>:se3 the Abanndea and
Espmosa , and then runs through the fertile valley of the lloedo.
48 li. Espinosa de VUlagonxalOy once strongly fortified. We then
ascend the ridge of San Cristobal^ crossing it at a height of 2825 ft.
To the left is Santa Cruz de Boedo, to the right San Cristobal. Wo
cross the Plsuerga, — 66 M. Herrera, on a pleasant hill to the
left, was the scene of a bloody engagement vnth the Garlists under
Merino and Balmaseda (1834).
The train follows the left bank of the Pisuerga. To the right,
in the distance, are the mountain-chains of Ono and Pancorbo
(p. 17). 60 M. Alar del Rey, the terminus of the Canal de Cos-
tilla (pp. 18, 36). Well-watered valleys, used both by the industrialist
and the husbandman , alternate with picturesque tracts of rock.
Near (66 M.) OUtroSy on the heights of Villaeacusa^ the train
crosses the Pisuerga three times. River and railway now enter the
wine-growing valley of the Cameta through the gorge of Cangosto.
71^2 ^- Aguiliur de Camp^o, the Roman Vellica, is a small
Untn with 1500 inhab., picturesquely situated on the left bank of
the Pisuerga. It attained a high degree of prosperity in the 13-1 5th
<^ent., and the 'Catholic Kings' made it the seat of a margrave. The
first to hold the title was the powerful Fernandez Manrique, who
entertained Charles V. here in 1517 and 1522. This period is re-
called by the ruins of the town-walls and castle and by the armorial
bearings on several old palaces. A visit may be paid to the Roman-
esque church of Santa Cecilia and the early-pointed San Migvel,
containing monuments of the 12-16th centuries.
A pleasant ronte leads to the W. from Aguilar to the once celebrated
Premonstratensian convent of Scmta Maria la Real. The convent dates
from the 11th cent., but it has been several times rebuilt and has lost many
of its old columns and capitals. The cloisters, as .<'een from the upper
areade, still form a model of the Romanesque style.
Near (75 M.) QuintanilUt de las Torres are some coal-pits. —
78 M. Mataporquira , situated at the foot of a hill to the left, is
the first place in the province of Santander and the junction of the
railway from La Robla (Leon) to Bilbao. — Farther on we see on
hih. sides hilly districts broken up by well-tilled valleys with water
courses and roads. — 84 M. Pozaznl (3230 ft.) is the highest point
of the railway.
91 M. Beinosa (Fonda Universal ; Rail, Restaurant), with 3000
inhab., lies in a green valley watered by the Ebro and Hijar. Iv
42 BouU5. SANTANDER. From Vmtd de Ba^-
the neighbourhood are many factories, mills, agricultural establish-
ments, and deposits of brown coal. Pleasant walks may be taken to
the Vista Alegre and in the Paato de Uu Columnas,
Cervatoi^ about 3 M. to the S.W. (omnibua), possesaes a curious early
medieeval church (litb cent.), which is yearly becoming more dilapidated.
The doorway, capitals, and friezes are covered with rude sculptures, many
of a grossly obscene character.
The train crosses the Ebro, threads a tunnel S/4 M. long, and
follows the course of the Besaya through a fine mountainous and
wooded district, forming the finest part of the line. The direct
distance from (99 M.) Pwjitera and (111 M.) Barcena is less than
2M., but to accomplish the descent the railway has to make a detour
of 12M., with seven sharp curves and eight tunnels, passing Afon-
tabliz and the Mediaeoncka Valley, — 1131/2 M. MolUdo; 115 M.
Santa Cruz; 117 M. Las Fraguas; 122 M. Los Corrdles, in the
midst of the fertile Buel vaUey^ 125 M. Las Caldas de Besaya
(Gran Hotel), a picturesquely situated watering-place with fre-
quented thermal springs.
I28V2 M. Torrelavegaj founded by Garzilaso de la Vega and
once a fief of the Mendoza family, is now the chief focus of the
iron-mining of the province of Santander. — 133Y2 M. Benedo ;
139 M. Ouamizo; 141 M. JBo'o, with a good distant view of the Bay
of Santander.
145^2 M. Santander. — Kailway Stations (on the S.W. side of the
town). 1. Ettacion del Norte^ for the railway to Madrid; 2. Estacion de
Solares^ for Bilbao (Portugalete) *, 3. Estacion del CantabricOj for Torre-
lavega and Cabez6n de la Sal. — Gabs at the exits from the stations.
Hotels, generally overcrowded in summer. With view of the harbour :
EcBOPA, Calle Mendez Nunez 2; Continental, Galle Mendez Nunez 1;
Oban Hotel ds Fbancisca Gomez, Muelle de Calderdn 11 (telephone and
electric light), pens. 8-15 p. — Less pretending: Fonda Ignacia, Galle
Santa Glara 3; Las Dos Amiqas, Calle Bail^n 2. — Outside the town, at
Sardinero : Gban Hotel, Gastilla, Grak Hot. de Paris. — Lodgings from
600 to 2000 p. for the season, according to the situation.
Oafes-Sestaurants. Ca/S Suizo^ Muelle de Galderdn*, C. Cantabrico,
Calle Hernan Cortes; C. Aneora, Muelle de Calder6n, less expensive. —
Beer at La Crut Blanca and La Austriaca, both in the Alameda Segunda.
Cabs. Per drive in the town and to the railway-stations and baths.
1-2 pers. 2 p., each addit. pers. i p. j per V« hr. 2 p., per hr. 4 p.; trunk
i p., small articles of luggage 25 c. It is advisable to make a bargain
beforehand. — The Small Boats for pleasure-trips have no fixed tarifl';
bargaining necessary.
Tramways. 1. From the Muelle de Calderdn via the Calles Atarazanas,
Becedo, Burgos, and San Fernando to P«fla Gastillo (fare to the begin-
ning of the Calle San Fernando 10 c, thence to Pena Castillo 30 c). 2. From
the Calle del Murtillo to Miranda (fare 15 c).
Steam Tramways. 1. From the Plaza Nnmancia by the Cuatro Ca-
minos, Fuente de la Salud, and Campogiro to San Jvsto (10-20 c). —
2. From the Calle Hernan. Cortis (Arcos de D6riga) to the Sardinero by
San Martin and La Magdalena (10-30 c). — 3. From the Calle Daoie y
Velarde to the Sardinero (20-30 c, return-tickets 40-60 c).
Steamers ply to Bilbao twice weekly, to Qijon and CoitiHa two or
Post Office, Calle Rubio 2. — Telegraph Office, Calle Baile'n 2.
Theatre, Calle Arcillero 27. — Basque Ball Game, Calle de las Ani-
ioSantander. SANTANDBR. 5, Route. 43
mM i. — Bull Fights in the Plata de Torotj Guatro Ouninos. — Oonearts
in summer at the Sardinero Ciuino (adm. generally 2 p. 50 c). Bands
play in the Plaza de la Libertad and in the grounds of the Mnelle de
Calder6n, Ml p.m.
Batha. Calle Santa Lucia i, open all the year round) (kUle General
Etpartero 7, in summer only. — Sea Bathing at the Playa del Sardinero
(25 c, incl. dress and towels ^ bath with warm sea-water 1 p. 70 c.) and
the Pla^a de la MagdaUna (60 e.; with warm water 1 p. 26 c., with sul-
phur 2 p.).
Physicians. Dr. R. Taylor y Calle San Francisco 17 \ Dr. R. de la Yega^
Calle Heman Cort<5s 6; Dr. E. de Oyarhide, Calle Daoiz y Velarde 16. —
Dentists. C. MacConachy (American), Huelle de Calder<}n 34; Dr. Benet^
Muelle de Calderdn 14. — Sraggist, Dr. HonkMon^ Calle Heman Corti^s 2.
Biitish Consul, Winter W. Single, Plaza de Velarde 16.
Clubs. Circulo de Reereo, Clvb de Regatas^ both on the Muelle de
Calderdn; Casino del Sardinero, at the Sardinero.
Beolcseller: L. QuHerrez^ Calle de San Francisco 3a — Photographs:
P. Urtasun, Plaza Vieja 4.
Banks. Borneo de JSspaHa (branch-ofliee of the Bank of Spain), Calle
de Velasco 3^ Banco de Santander^ Calle Wad-Baa 1. — Koney Changer,
Muelle de Calderon 4.
Santander, the capital of a province originally belonging to Old
Castile, the see of a bishop, one of the most important seaports on
the N. coast of Spain, and also a fashionable watering-place, is
charmingly situated on the sheltered bay of its own name, enclosed
by picturesque hills. Pop. 40,000. The climate is mild, but damp
and changeable. Santander ia divided into an upper or old, and a
lower or new town. The latter consists of handsome parallel streets
and fine squares, some of which axe beautified with pleasure
grounds. On the S. it la bordered by the Muelle de Calderdn, a
wide quay extending from the custom-house to the suburb of Mai-
nedo. The closely built old town begins at the old castle of San
Felipe J is bordered on the £. by the Calle AUa, and reaches on the
S.W. to the quay of MaUano.
The chief centres of life and traffic are the handsome Plaza
Velarde, with a monument to Velarde, a native of Santander and
one of the heroes of the ^Dos de Mayo^ (p. 64) ; the busy CalleJ
Atarazanas and San Francisco ; the gardens of the Muelle de Cal-
deron, with an unimpeded and extensive view of the Pefia Cabarga
and the ranges of Solares, Valnera, and Tornos ; and, finally, the
MuBUiB BB Caldbb6k, or mole itself, with the custom-house, maga-
zines, warehouses, and wharves, and an arm projecting far into the
harbour. At the MaUano Quay lie the vessels embarking the iron
ores from the mines of Camargo and Puente Arco ; the loading is
carried on mainly by women. A monument here marks the spot
where about 300 men lost their lives on Nov. 3rd, 1893, through
the blowing up of the steamer *Machichaco', laden with dynamit«
and iron rails.
The Cathedeal, in the old town, a Gothic edifice of the
13th cent., is somewhat heavy-looking and has been disfigured by
restoration. The tower rises over an open chamber with pointed
44 Routed. SANTANDER.
vanlting. The high-altar enshrines the remains of the martyrs Eme-
terinus and Celedonius, the patron-saints of Santander. The font,
with an Arabic inscription, once formed part of .a fountain. The
Crypt (del Crista de Abajo) is interesting.
The remaining churches are nearly alt modern and uninteresting,
like the many philanthropic and other institutions.
Walks. The Alameda is pleasantly shaded with tr^es. The Alameda
Segunda is the scene of the annual fair (ft'ria). It is continued by the
Alameda Alta^ which follows the crest of the hills bordering the bay and
leads to the suburb of Miranda^ passing numerous villas and gardens,
the Atalaya or signal-tower, and the dilapidated Fort Lopez Ba^os. — The
Camino del Sardiniro leads to the E. beyond Miranda to the Capilla de
los Martirety founded by fishermen and sailors, and on to the bathing-places
(fine views of sea and coast). — About 20 M. to the W. of Santander (nearest
rail, station, Torrelavega, p. 42) is 8antt'llana del Mar, the birthplace of
Gil Bias.
Excursions. We may follow the coast to the E. to the lighthouse on
the Punta del Puerto (Gattillo de la Cerda) and the adjacent figoalling
station (Semdfovo). — To the N. we may drive to Cabo Mayor, with a
lighthouse and the Puente Forado, a natural limestone bridge of consider-
able dimensions. — To the E., outside the bay, lies the island of Movro,
with its lighthouse, a pleasant point for a sail.
Railway-excursions may be made to (12 M.) the pleasantly situated
thermal baths of Solare* (Hot. La Pepina; 4 trains daily in 35min., fares
1 p. t5, 1 p. 25, 75 c.) and to (5V2 M. ; 4 trains daily in 20 roin., fares PC,
50, 30 c.) Aitillero (La Gren Via), on the S. side of the Bay of Santander,
once famous for its ship-building and now the port of embarkaticn for the
ores mined in the district of Cabargo.
There are several sulphur-baths in the wooded valleys of the neigh-
bouring irountains, the chief of which are those of Ontaneda (76* Fahr.)
and Alceda (81°). They are reached by train to Eenedo (p. 42) and carriage
thence (3-4 p. for ea.h pers.).
The Railway fbom Santandek to Cab£zon de la Sal, at present of
importance for the adjacent iron mines only, w^ill become of more general
interest when it is prolonged to Infiesto and so affords direct communi-
cation with Oviedo and Gijon.
Fbou Santander to Bilbao, 72 M., railway (two trains daily) in 4 hrs.
(fares 12, 8, 6 p.). This railway is one of the most picturesque in Spain,
especially its second half, beyond Gibaja. The train (starling at the Esta-
cion de Solares) skirts the W. side of the Bay of Santander, with the
Pena Cabarga and the hills of Solares to the left. Beyond (672 M.) Astil-
lero (see above) we cross the Ria de San Salvador and skirt the base of
the Pefia Cabarga. 9 M. Heras, at the head of the Bay of Santander. To
the right we have a distant view of the mountains of Solares and Torre-
lav ega (p. 42). Farther on we cross the Ria Tijero, pass (13 M.) Orejo,
the junction of a line to Solares, and cross the Niera and Santo Tomdt.
17 M, Villaverde de Pontones; 19 M. Hoz de Anero ; 21 V2 M. Beronga, on
the Rio Solorzano; 25>/3 M. Qama. On both sides stretch extensive t'elds
of maize. To the left rises the fine Pena de Santona, at the foot of which,
in a charming situation, is the refuge-harbour of Santcfia. — 31 M. Treto,
with steamboat communication with Santona. The train cros'-es the Ria
Carrasa and runs past the pleasantly situated Limptiat to (30,^ k M.) Jfarron,
whence it ascends along the Rio Ason to (35 M.) Udalla and (37'/« M.) Gibdiia.
The train and the Rio Carranza (frequently crossed) now enter a
highly picturesque ravine 42 M. Molinar; 43 M, Carranza, a sulphur
bath in the province of Vizcaya. A little farther on is the Tunel de la
Eserita, penetrating the crest of the Fresnedo Mts. 50 M. Villaverde
''« Trucios; f!& "A. Arcentalet. Numerous tunnels. 59 M. ^rangrwren, the
"-tion of the railway from Bilbao to La Robla (Leon). We pass
If
if? )^K^-mfy
AVILA. 6. Route, 45
through a fine mountainoiis district, skirting the Rio Cadagtka, 60 H.
GileKes; 63 V. Sodupe; 66 H. Im Ciiandra. At (66V2 M.) Zaramillo begins
the mining district of Bilbao. — 69V2 M. Zorroza is the junction of the
railway from Bilbao to Portugalete (carriages changed). To the left we
have a fine view of the river Nervi6n^ the suburb of Olavtaguy and the
mountains of Durango.
72 M. Bilbao (Estacidn de Portugalete), see p. 21.
6. From Medina del Campo to Madrid vi& Avila,
Eicorial, and Villalba.
124 v. Railway in 6-8Ys hr5t. (one express and two ordinary traiii.s
daily: fares 28 p., 17 p. 25, 10 p. 35 c.). The ''Train de Lux*" mentioned
at p. 8 makes the trip in 5 hrs. (Tues. A Sat.; in the reverse dirMiiun
on Thurs. A Sun.). There is a railway-reiitaurant at Avila.
Medina del Campo, see p. 19. — As far as Sancliidri&n the
railway follows the old highroad between Gallcia and Madrid. To
the right, in the distance, lies Madrigal^ the birthplace of Isabella
the Catholic. — 51/2 M. G6mt% Narro, We ascend towards the long
range of monntains which, under the names of Sitrra de Ouadarrama
and Sierra de GredoSj separates Old and New Castile (comp. p. 5).
The peaks of the former come into sight in the left foreground.
11 M. AtaquineSy surrounded by its seven hills, is the last station
in the province of Yalladolid. The train crosses a four-arched bridge,
396 ft. long, spanning the Adaja (p. 46), which here receives the
ArevaliUo; both rivers rise in Uie Sierra de Aaila.
22 M. Arivalo (2710 ft.), an old town (3600 inhab.) in the
province of Avila, lies 1 M. to the W. of the railway, on a delta
formed by the two just-mentioned rivers. It was formerly one of
the keys of Castile (comp. p. 51). *
The line ascends near the right bank of the Adaja, affording a
view of the mountains of Segovia (p. 120) to the left and of the
Sierra de Avila to the right. 29 M. Adanero ; 34 M. SancJddridn
(3065 ft.) ; 38 M. Velayoa ; 46 M. MingorrCa , an ancient Basque
colony in a hiUy district strewn with erratic boulders. Numerous
evergreen oaks. We then traverse an arid and desolate region, en-
livened only by a few cattle and occasional migratory flocks of sheep
(comp. p. 444). — 54 M. Avila,
Avila. — The Bailway Station (Restaurant) lies about '/s M. to the
E, of, and somewhat below, the town. Omnibuses^ but rarely cabs, meet
the trains.
Hotels (comp. p. xx). Fonda del Ingl^.s (PI. a; C, 2), opposite the W.
fafade of the cathedral, in the Spanish style, mediocre, pe;i3. 7V2, omn.
1 p. 5 Ndevo Hotel del Jabdin (PI. b; C, D*, 2, 3), to the E. of the cathedral,
also unpretending. — Cafi* Zonetti and Suizo^ both in the Mercado Grande.
Post Office (Correo; PI. D, 3), on the S. side of the Mercado Grande.
Chief Attraetiona (one day). 3an Vicente (p. 49); Cathedral (p. 46);
Scm Pedro (p. 47); Santo Tomdt (p. 48).
Avila (3655 ft.), the capital of a province and the see of a bishop,
is finely situated on a flat-topped ridge , three sides of which are
48 Route e, AVILA. From Medina d. C.
Santo Tomis (PI. E, 4), founded by the ^Catholic Kings'
in 1482. From the fore- court vre pass through a doorway adorned
-with statues into the late-Gothic Ghubch, a singular building,
destitute of aisles but with a transept and two rows of lateral chapels.
There is a 'coro alto' on the W. wall , and the high-altar is in a
corresponding gallery, supported by a flat arch, on the E. wall. The
*Retablo of the high -altar, a masterpiece of the early Spanish.
school, is by the so-called Master of the 8t. Tkomcu'8 Altar (p. 74).
In the middle is St. Thomas Aquinas, surrounded by eight angels ;
to the right and left are four scenes from the life of the saint; below
are the four Latin Fathers of the Church. The centre of the transept
is occupied by the magnificent marble ^Monument of Prince John
(d. 1497), only son of Ferdinand and Isabella, by the Florentine
Domenico FaneelU. The beautiful figure of the young prince lies on
a sarcophagus adorned with much-mutilated reliefs and ornaments.
Ill the third chapel on theN. side is the similar *Monument of Juan
de Avila and Juana Velazquez (1604), also ascribed to Dom, Fan-
celli. The figures of the deceased are attended by a page bearing a
helmet, a frequent addition to tombs of this period.
On leaving St. Thomas's, the visitor is advised to walk round
the old town in order to examine the *City Walls, which were
erected in 1090-99. The Oarrera de Santo Tomas and the Galle de
San Crist6bal lead to the N.W. for about 1/2 M. through the Barrio
de las Vacas (PI. D, 4), beyond which we ascend to (V4 M.) the
Puerta del Bastro (PI. B, C, 3). In front of this gate is the Pasta
del RastrOj commanding a fine mountain-view.
Keeping to the W., we reach the Puerta de Santa Teresa (PI.
B, 3) in 3 min. more. Just Inside this' gate, in a small plaza, is
the Convento de Santa Teresa (PL B, 3), with a church in the style
of Herrera, erected on the site of the house in which the saint was
bom (1615-82). The W. side of the plaza is occupied by the Casa
del Duque de la Roca, an edifice of the 16th cent, with a facade
adorned with columns.
From the Puerta de Santa Teresa a broad road descends in a
wide sweep to the W. gate of the city, the Puerta del Puente (PL
A, 2), by which the road to Salamanca leaves Avila. We follow
the latter road, which crosses the Adaja just below the gate by a
new bridge (to the left, below, the old bridge, with its five arches).
By ascending for a little on the opposite bank, we reach a Stone
Cross y affording a fine view of Avila and its many-towered wall.
From the Puerta del Pueute we may now return to the cathedral,
via the Calle San Esttfban (with the church of San Esteban, PI. B, 2 ),
the Calle de la Rua (with the Palacio del Conde de Polentinos, now
a military school; PI. B, 2), and the Plaza Mayor (PL C, 2). Or
we may proceed to the N., outside the wall, to (2 min.) the Roman-
esque church of —
San Segnndo (PL A, 1 ; key kept at the adjoining cottage, 30>
to Madrid. AVILA. 6. RouU. 49
50 e.), a small Btrnetnre with a fine Romanesque doorway, situated
on tlie bank of the river. The interior, almost square in shape, is
divided into nave and aisles by granite columns and ends in three
semicircular apses. The wooden ceiling and the capitals of the
columns are interesting. To the right of the main apse is the tomb
of San Segondo, Bishop of Avila, with a lineeling figure of the saint,
ascribed to Serruguete,
We then skirt the N. wall of the city, passing (left) the small
Brmlta de San Martin (PI. B, C, 1), till we reach the high-lying
church of —
*8an Vicente (PI. D, 2 ; sacristan , Galle de Valseca 9), the
finest Romanesque edifice in Avila, probably begun in the 12th,
though not completed tiU the 15th century. The fine W. facade is
flanked by two towers, between which is a lofty open porch, with a
splendid Romanesque double doorway (13th cent.), with elaborate
but much mutilated sculptures. The S. tower, with its modern re-
storations, is unfinished; the large N. bell-tower dates ftom the 12-
15th eentories. — Along the S. side of the church runs a kind of
granite cloister or corridor, contrasting strangely with the sandstone
of which the church itself is built. Within this is the comparatively
simple S. doorway, forming the usual entrance to the church.
The interior (at present undergoing restoration) resembles San
Pedro (p. 47) in its ground-plan and is 180 ft in length. The nave, ~
with its triforium and clerestory, is in a pure Romanesque style. The
transept, choir, and three semicircular apses are in the Transition
style. The transepts are roofed with barrel- vaulting. On the E.
side of the octagonal lantern is a painted wooden Relief of the Graoi-
fixion, with the Virgin and St. John (14th cent). Below the lantern
is the Tomb of 8t. Vinemt and his sisters ^SliSf. Sabina and CriaUta^
(consisting of a sarcophagus of the 13th cent., with numerous notable
reliefs, surmounted by a canopy of 1465, resting upon coupled
eolumns. — A staircase at the end of the N. aisle descends to the
i&odemized Crypt^ containing the rock on which, acoordinj; to the
legend, St. Vincent and his sisters suffered martyrdom (303).
Below San Vicente, to the N., is the church of San Andria (PI.
I>, 1), another late-Romanesque edifice of the 12-1 3th centuries.
Railwat to FliMaranda and Salmnancaj see p. 471.
Beyond Avila the train turns at right angles towards the E. The
i^eit part of the railway, abounding in tunnels and viaducts, was
tlie most difficult to construct. It traverses a bleak and almost
uninhabited mountain - district , intersected by deep valleys. In
winter the whole is often under snow. After threading five short
tnnnels, the train reaches the Tunnel of Ckinada (1040 yds. long),
which penetrates ike Puerto de Avila, or saddle between, the Sierra
de Malagifn on the E. and the Paramera de Avila on the S.W., two
f»nges that form the connecting link between the Sierra de Guadar-
BASDBKBX'i Spain. 4
50 Boute6, VILLALBA.
ram a and the Siena de Gredos. The highest point of tiie line
(4500 ft.), -which is also the highest point yet reached hy any Spanish
railway, is at the entrance to the tunnel. — We then descend to
(671/2 M.) La Canada.
The line now descends rapidly and circuitously towards the S.E.,
along the steep flank of the Sierra de Malag6u. We oross several
small feeders of the Alberche^ which carries its waters to the Tagiis.
To the right we enjoy a fine view of the valley of the Alherohe, with
the small town of CebreroSj embosomed in vineyards and oUve
groves; to the S., in the extreme distance, rise the mountains of
Toledo. — 73 M.,Navalperal (4166 ft.).
The train traverses extensive forests of ilex and pine. 761/2 M.
Las Navas del MarqueSj with an old palace of the Duke of Medina-
CeU, who owns large estates in this neighbourhood. The line
sweeps in a bold curve towards the S. Several torrents are crossed
and nine tunnels threaded. — 88 M. Bobledo (3310 ft.), the station
for Robledo de Chavela^ a small town in the province of Madrid^ 3 M.
to the £. The parish-churoh contains a famous rotable by Antonio
del Rincon (ca. 1446-1500). — The train turns to the N.E. and
passes through a tunnel. 92 M. EBCorial (3030 ft.), see p. 109.
Beyond Escorial we enter the defile of Navalqriejigo, and beyond
(981/2 M.) La« Zorreras we cross the Quadarrama,
100 M. Yillalba, in a wide valley enclosed by the S. foot-hills of
the Guadarrama Mts., is the junction of the railway to Medina del
Campo viH Segovia (R. 7 ; carriages changed).
Our line turns to the S.E. and descends the valley of the Gua-
darrama, through a solitary, rocky region, overgrown with cistus and
scrub-oak. — 105 M. Torrelodones. Beyond some cuttings and a
tunnel is (110 M.) Las Matas,
The train enters the plain of New Castile, a monotonous steppe,
interrupted here and there by vineyards or corn-fields. 113 M. Las
Rozas, To the left, in the distance, is the chllteau of El Pardo
(p. 108), on the Manzanares. — 117 M. El Piantio.
119 m. FozuelOj a smiling oasis among oak- and pine-clad hills,
with numerous villas of the Madrilenos. — To the left we have a
fine retrospect of the Guadarrama Mts. We cross the Manzanares.
On the hill to the left is the Cuartel de la Montafia(p. 101), beyond
which is the Royal Palace.
124 M. Madrid (p. 53 ; Estaci6n del Norte).
7* From Medina del Campo to Madrid yi& Segovia
and Villalba.
121 H. Railway (one express and two ordinary trains daily) in
61/4*71/2 hts. (fares 22 p. d5, 16 p. 80, 10 p. 10 c). Bailway-restaarants at
Medina del Campo and Segovia, — TheVart of the railway between Segovia
and Villalba (40 M., but less than 2CrM. as the crow flies) is remarkable
ifor its bold aad skilful engineering. — A pleasant Walk may be taken
OLMEDO. 7. Route. 5t
from Etpinar (p. 53) vill tbe Puerto de Qitadarrama (p. 62) to (13 H.)
Quadarrama. — DaiVB fTom Segovia or La Qranja (p. 120) to Btcorial^
comp. p. 117.
Medina del Campo^ see p. 19. — As far as Coca tbe train runs
through a bleak, thinly populated district, tbe nature of which Is
suggested in the name of the first station (6 M.) QaUinas-La-Zana
('thorn-bush').
131/2 M. Olmado, an old town with 2300 inhab., lies on the
highroad from Yalladolid to Madrid, Just before it quits the province
of Valladolid. It formerly contained many convents, and was
strongly fortified as the seat of several families of distinction.
^Quien de CcutiUa nenor pretenda set, d Olmedo y Arivalo de su parte
ha de tener^ was a popular saying which asserted 'that he who
aspired to be lord of Castile, must have Olmedo and Arevalo
(p. 45) on his side*.
The train turns to the S.E., enters the Castilian province of
Segovia, and crosses the unfinished Irrigation - works of the Canal
it QutiUa (pp. 18, 36), which it was Intended to continue as far
as Segovia. Several poor villages are passed.
23 M. Coca, a small town, surrounded by pleasant woods, lies
in a delta formed by the Eresma and its tributary the Voltoya. The
ancient Cauca was the capital of the Vaccasi, an Iberian tribe, and
in B. C. 151 was captured by the Roman consul Lucius LucuUus,
who massacred the inhabitants and carried off a vast amount of
plunder. In the middle ages it played a part of some importance
as the seat of the Fonseca family, whose Qothic ^CaHle, built in
the 15th cent, and defended by moats and towers, still stands in
partial preservation at the confluence of the Eresma and the Voltoya.
The church of Santa Maria contains four handsome ttenaissance
tombs of the Fonsecas [1500 ; Italian workmanship). The Arco de la
y\Ua, the main gate of the former town-walls, is also interesting.
The train now crosses the Voltoya and ascends on its right bank.
28 M. Nava de la A8unei6n^ with extensive vineyards. To the
nght is a wood named the Pin&r de Nieva, 35 M. Ortigoaa^Santa
Maria~de-Nieva, two towns well known for their woollen manu-
factures. Santa Maria was the seat of the Cortes of 1473.
The scenery becomes more hilly. 381/2 M. Armufia, We next
cross the Eresma aud ascend on its right bank to (4272^0 Yanguas
and (46 M.) Ahusfn. The train then returns to the left bank of the
river, and beyond (50 M.) Ontanarea crosses the Terogordo. To the
left, on a long ridge, lies the picturesque city of Segovia, dominated
by the Alcazar and the cathedral.
58 M. Segovia, see p. 117. Excursion thence to La Qranja,
see p. 120.
Beyond Segovia the line ascends at first towards the N.W. over
the N. spurs of the Gnadarrama Mts., and crosses the Hontoria,
Riofrio, and Rio Pecet.
4*
5 2 Route 8. MADRID. Railway Stationi.
64 M. La Lom-Navas-de-Riofrio. In the vicinity are laif
granite quarries, which afford the material for the street-paving/*' ;^
Madrid ; also the Palacio de Riofrio, built amid the woods by Ij
bella Farnese (p. 121), and containing a large picture-gallery^' I-
70 M. Otero de Herrerot.
Farther on we cross the Moros and proceed through deep cuttf . .,
and by a wide curve to (75 M.) Espinatj where the railway real i |
the old highroad from Galicia over the Quadarrama Pass. I
The High Road to Gaadarrama, a portion of the old road from Ga
to Madrid, ascends from Espinar viS, the Venta de San Rafael^ whej
crosses the road from Avila (p. 45) to Segovia, to the ridge of the 9
de Quadarrama. At the top of the Puerto de Quadarrama (6150 ft.h
stone lion, commemorating the construction of this mountain-roufl
Ferdinand VI. (1479). The road then descends, soon affording a 8pl4
view of the plain of New Castile lying far below, to (12 H.) Quadati
(see below).
The line penetrates the mountains by the Guada/rrama Tuj^
(4380 ft.), 13/5 M. long, below the Puerto (see above). ^
On emerging from the tunnel, we have a surprising view to t
left of the wide plain of Castile. The train threads another shoi^
tunnel and descends rapidly to (85 M.) Cercedilla (3785 ft.). Three
more tunnels. 88 M. Los Molinos-Quadarrama^ where the above-
mentioned road over the Guadarrama Pass crosses the road from
Escorial to La Granja (p. 120).
91 M. CoUado Mediano, near the important quarries of Berrocdl
(*piedra berroquefia'). — The train crosses the road to Galioia and
the Guadarrama.
97 M. Villalba, and thence to (121 M.) Madnd, see p. 50.
a I U <S V VV
if ^r
fM 13'
53
8. Madrid, t
Arrival and Departure. Hotels, Fentions, Lodginga, Rastanraiits,
and Oafte.
Sailway Btations. 1. EHaHdn del JTorte (PI. C, 0, 7^ restaurant), for
:X and N.W. lines vii Medina del Campo. — 2. Eataeidn d« lag Delieitu
1, Hll: resUurant), for the railway to Lisbon vi& Valencia de Al-
Jara.— 3. E*taci<in dtl Mediodia or de Atocha (PI. H, 9, lO; restaurant),
[all the other lines. — The Eetaeidn de Arganda (PI. II ; L, 8), for the
^-gauge railway to Vfcdlvaro and Arganda, and the Eitaeidn de VUia
tdo (PI. C, 0), for the line to Navalcani^ro and Villa del Prado, are
. importance to the stranger.
,The Omhibuskb of the larger hotels meet the chief trains. — One or
persons, with a small quantity of luggage, may conveniently use a
(eoehe de pvtUo), Fare 1 p. (from the Delicias station IVt p.)i each
*- 1 p., each handbag 00 c, gratuity 90-60 o. If the cab has to be
lly summoned from its stand outside the station, the tariff by time
into operation ; first hr. 3 p., each V4 hr. addit. 60 e. ; luggage as
(comp. p. 66). >- A party of 8-6 persons should take one of the
Railway Omhtbusks CSerticio especial de Im camtnoe de kierro* or
10 de loe/erroeatilee"). Fare for 1-6 pers. with 320 lbs. of baggage
bom the DeliciM station 6 p. (between midnight and 6 a. m. 6 or 7p.)^
' -1 p. — In every ease, however, it is advisable not to rely merely
\ taritr, but to eome to a distinct understanding with the driver.
who have not yet selected their hotel or lodging may leave their
dimenta at the railway-station and drive into the city by one of the
I OmriBDS OnrsBAi.88 (see below). The private omnibuses (^servicio
' >') should be carefully avoided.
lailway Ofleea {DespaeKoe Oniralee; comp. p. xvi). 1. Puerta del
for the Estaei<Sn del Kortei 3. Calle de AlcaU 7, for the Estaei6n
Delicias; 8. Calle de Alcali 14-16, for the EstacicSn del Mediodia.
lOmnibtu Oenerdl usually leaves these offices about 1 hr. before the
ture of the trains (fare 60>60 c, each trunk 35-60 c). The small
oy Omnibueet (see above) may be ordered here , to pick up at the
Uer'6 hotel or lodging. — Office of the International Sleeping Courage
PCompagnie Internationale des wagons-Hts et des grands express euro-
«1, Calle AlcaU 18. — Ceok"* Tourist Office^ Carrera San Jer6nimo 5.
'Hotels (comp. p. zx and PI. II, p. 65; most of them with lifts and
electric light ; in spring, rooms should be ordered in advance). *Hotbl db
LA Paz (PI. a; F, 7), Puerta del Sol 11; *Hot. db Paris (PI. b; F, 7)
Paetta del Sol, with entrance at Calle de Alcaic 3, two fashionable and
expensive houses in a somewhat noisy situation; Hot. DBt Universo,
Puerta del Sol 14; •Hot. db Roka (PI. c; G, 7), <3alle del Caballero de
Gracia 23; Hot. db Rcsia (PI. d; G, 8), Carrera San Jertfnimo 34, with
restaurant. These five of the first class ; pens, from 12V2, in rooms to-
wards the street from 26 p. — Somewhat less pretentious: •Hot. de
Embajadorbs (PI. e; F, 7), Calle Victoria 1, at the corner of the Carrara
San Jer6nimo ; •Hot. iNGLfis (PI. f ; G, 8), in the narrow Calle Echegarai
t In the references to the Plaks in the text, PI. I refers to the adjoining
eeneral plan, PI. n to the plan of the centre of the city (p. 65). Where
neither I nor II is specified, the reference is to both plans. — The focu.s
of the traffic is the Puerta del Sol (PI. F, 7, 8). The streets are called
«a«e», the longer streets earriras or eorrediras; a narrow street or lane
>^ termed callejdn ; travesia is a short connecting alley ; ewsta means a
descending street, edstamiUa a descending lane, bajada^ a descent; pretil
is a lane on a slope, with houses on one side and a parapet on the other ;
portal is a large entrance-way, portiUo or postigo a small one; campillo is
K deserted square or open space; jardiniUo is a square laid out as a
garden; puerta is a gate; ronda^ a street forming a circle; pasio is a
promenade or boulevard.
54 Routes. MADRID. Cafis.
(No. 10), with an excellent restaurant. Pens, at these two from 12V8 p- —
Plainer houses: Hot. Santa Gsuz (PI. g^ G, 8), Garrera San Jerdnimo,
with restaurant, well situated, !/« ^* ^^^^ ^^le Prado Museum; Obibntb
(PI. h^ F, 7), Calle del Arenal 4; Pekinsdlar (PI. li B, 8), Call© Mayor 43,
with restaurant, commercial; Cuatbo Kazionbs (PI. k; £, 7), Calle del
Arenal 19 and 21, satisfactory for modest requirements. Pens, at these
houses from 8, in rooms towards the street from 10, R. from 2V2 p. -^ The
First Breakfatt (desayiino) is generally charged »/4-lVa P- extra. Travellers
should personally announce their intended depariure in the hotel-office,
either the night hefore or early in the morning.
Penaions ((7<m(m de JSuispedet; comp. p. xx) are numerous. Among
the heat known are the *Botel de 8ev%lla^ Calle AlcaU 83-35, and those
of Francitco Jjomiely Calle AlcaU 17 (2nd floor), pleasantly situated ; Vicente
Romero^ Calle AlcaU 17 duplicado (2nd floor) ; Bruno Euiz, Calle Alcala 17
triplicado (Ist floor); Luis Begueiro^ Calle Mayor 12 (2nd floor) ; ^intonto
Barreira, Calle Mayor 18 (2nd floor); Jo$i Arena* ^ Calle del Arenti 16
(2nd floor). The usual charge for full pension, including the first breakfast,
is from 8 p. upwards. Tahle^wine, light, and service are sometimes extras.
Famished Booms are difficult to procure in a good situation near the
centre of the city. The charge for a well-furnished room, with an alcove
for the bed,, is about 75-150 p« a month, with a fee of 6-7Vs p. for attend-
ance. A white paper ticket at the er^ of a balcony indicates furnished
rooms to let; in the middle of a balcony, unfurnished rooms. — Jn making
the contract it is desirable to have the aid of someone acquainted with
the local usages ; it is not safe to trust to outward appearances. The price
asked may often be lowered by judicious bargaining.
Beatauranta (comp. p. xxi; most frequented for the Almuerzo^ 11-1,
and for the ComWa, after 6 p.m.). ^Lhardy. Carrera de San Jerdnimo, d^j,
from 10, D. from 127* P- i C<^^ <*< Fornos (see below), Calle de AlcaU 19.
groundfloor (not to be confounded with the Bestaurant de Fornos, with
its ^chambres s^par^es% on the first floor); '^Cafi IngliSy Calle de Sevilla 6 '
(1st floor); Bufite Jtaliano^ Carrera San Jerdnimo 32, frequented by for-
eigners, moderate but not too clean ; restaurants in the hotels Rtuia^ IngUe^
Santa CruZy and Peninsular (see p. 53 and above). Persons not staying in
the house are also admitted to the meals at any of the other hotels; previous
enquiry as to price advisable and customary.
Cafes (comp. p. xzii ; some of them very tastefully fitted up). Cafi
Fornos^ Calle AlcaU 19; "C^i de Madrid. AlcaU 10; ^Cafi Suixo, Alcala 36;
Cafi Inglii^ Calle de Sevilla d. The caf^s in the Puerta del Sol are frequented
by politicians, unemployed officials (cesdntes)^ touts for gaming rooms, and
^confidence men". — At many caf^s music (piano and violin) is provided
free of charge in the evening. Among these are the Ca/6 del Siglo^ Calle
Haydr 18; Cqfi Levante, Calle del Arenal 15. — Those cafes in which, at an
advanced hour of the evening, the so-called ^Flamenco* 8<mgs and Dances
(p. 889) are given should be avoided by ladies and visited by gentlemen
only in company with a native friend.
Confectioners (Conjiterias). Cafi de Viena^ Calle AlcaU 42; La Mdllor-
guina^ Puerta del Sol 8, and many others. — Ladies" Cafi in the Cafi Suizo
(see above), with special entrance at the corner of the Calle de Sevilla.
Hprohaterias (see p. xxiij are numerous in the warm season, especially
in the Calle Alcala, Calle Maydr, and Carrera San Jer6nimo. Good Vermouih
di Torino and other bitters are obtained in the Cafi de Viena (see above).
Beer Houses, with beer on draught, do not exist in Madrid, but bottled
beer (cerveza) may be obtained at all hotels, restaurant*^, caf^s, and hor-
chaterfas. The best native beers are Mdhou (especial)^ Princeea^ and Santa
Barbara. The foreign malt liquors include English Ale and Stout^ and Bre-
meny Dortmund^ Rotterdam^ and Bavarian Beer (bottled Munich beer in the
Cafi Iberia^ Carrera de San Jeronimo 31). Beer is, however, better avoided
in the hot season (see p. xxii).
Tobacco (comp. p. xxiii) may be procured . at Calle del Arenal 1 and
-'umerous other ^Estancos'*. Savannah Cigars at Puerta del Sol 14, Calle de
Till a 2, and elsewhere.
Trcanufays. MADRID. 8, Route. 55
b. MamiM of TniuportfttioB.
Cabs (Cochet d€ punto^ SinUhta) stand in all tbe great plazna and in
the busier streets. A small tablet bearing the words ^se alqnUa* (4s to
hire') indicates that the rebide is not engaged. Tariff (day and night):
for 1-2 pers. per drive (earrira) in the first lone (el primer hrw'U) 1 p., in
the second zone 3 p.., in the third zone 3 p. ; hj time (d hora) in all zones.
1st hr. 2 p., each addit. 1/4 br. 60 e. If the cab is dismissed in the third
zone, the driver is also entitled to a retam-ftire of 2 p. For each pers.
above two, 50 e. extra in each ease^ for two-horse cabs t p. extra. — Kach
article of luggage 60 c, large trunk 1 p. — Special Fares. To tbe DeUciat
BtaHon (p. 63) iVs p. \ to the Plata de Torot (o. 86) on ^Corrida^ days
IVsp.; to tbe Canal on Ash Wednesday (p. 6S) 2VsP'> ^o ^^^ Hipddvomo
(p. 92) on race-days IVsp*) ^ ^^^ Pradtra de San hidro during the May
Festival (p. 60) 2<yip.; to tbe Cementerio del Bate 4 p.
CarziagM may be hired of M. Olica. Galle Don Martfn 67 and Calle
de la Qnintana 14, or of Bornilla^ Prs6o de la Castellan i 10. Fare per day
about 25 p., per month 860-600 p.
Tramways (TranHaa ; fare 6-26 c). Xost of tbe lines start from or cross
the Pnerta del 80I (Pi. F, 7, 8). The following are the most important.
I. Trahvia dk Hadkid.
a. From the Pueria del Sol (E. side) r\i tbe Galle de AlcaU, Plasa
de Madrid (PI. II; H, 7), Paseo de Recoletos, Plaza de Colon (PI, 11^ H,
6), and Paseo de la Castellana to the Bipddromo (PL I ; H, 1). The name
board (UMilla) is inscribed Puerta del Sol, Castellana, Hip6dromo.
b. From the Pueria del Soi (B. side) rii the Plasa da Hadrid (PI. II;
H, 7), Paseo de Bacoletos, Calle de Villanneva, and Calle de Serrano
(PI. T, 6>4) to the Calle de Maldanado (PI. I; I, 4). Kame-board: Pnerta
del Sol y Barrio de Salamanca.
e. From the Pueria del Sol (8. side) vift the Calle Hayor, Plaza de
Oriente (PI- II i ^i t)y Plaza de San Marcial (PI. 11; E, 6), and Calle deFerrir.
to the CaUe del Dvque de Urquijo (PI. I ; C, D, 6). Kame : PaerU del Sol
y Barrio de Argiielles.
d. From the CaUe del Dvque de Urquijo (PI. I; C, D, 5} vi& tbe Glorieta
de San Bernardo (PI. I ; F, 6), Olorieta de Bilbao (PI. I, 2; F,6), Plaza de
Alonso Kartinec (PI. I; O, 0), and Plaza de Colon (PI. II; H, 6) to the Eetiro
(PI. II; I, 7). Name: Puerto del Sol, Barrio de Argiielles y Betiro.
e. From tbe Puerta del Sol (S. side) by the Calle Mnyor, Plasa de
Oriente (PI. IT; E, 7), Plaza de San Marcial (PI. II; E, 6), Calle de Ferrdz,
and Calle de la Princesa to the Plata de la Jutiieia (PI. I; C, 4). Kame:
Pnerta del Sol y Barrio de Pozas.
II. TBAmriA DEL NOKTE.
a. Circular line from the Puerta del Sol (S. side) by the Calle de la
Montera, CaUe de Hortaleza, Plara de Alonso Martinez (PI. I; 0, 6; branch-
line to Calle del Cisne), Plaza de la Iglesia (PI. 1,1; G, 3), Glorieta de
Qnevedo (PI. I7 F. 4), Glorieta de Bilbao (PI. T,3; F, 6), Calle de la Fuen-
carrdl, and Calle de la Montera back to the Puerto del Sol. Kame: Cbamberf
por Hortoleza, or Chamber( por Fuencarrdll.
b. From tbe Olorieta de Quevedo (PI. I ; F, 4) by tbe Calle de Bravo
Morillo to tbe Olorieta Cuatro Caminos (PI. I; F, 1). Kame: Cnatro Ca-
njjnos y Glorieta de Quevedo.
III. Tbaitvia del Este.
a. From tbe Puerta del Sol (E. side) vift the Plazas de Madrid (PI. II ;
H, 7), de la Independencia (PI. H, I, 7), and de Toros (PI. I; L, 6) to tbe
Ventas del Etpiritu Santo (PI. I j M, 4, 6). Kame: Pnerta del Sol y Ventas.
For the bnll-figbi<9 (p. 57) extra-cars are pnt on, labelled *Totos* (fare 60 c).
b. Prom the Plata de Madrid (PI. IT, H7; 8.W. corner) by tbe Paseo
del Pndo, the Bstoddn del Mediodfa (PI. H, 9, 10), and Bonda de Atocha
to the Oalle de Embajadoret (PI. II; F, 10). Kame: Emb^adores y Cibeles.
TV. Tkaitvia de Estaciokbs t Mbrcados.
a. From the Piterta del Sol (S. side) by tbe Calle de Carretas, Calle
de Atocha, Bstaoidn del Mediodfa (PI. H, 9, 10), and Paseo de Atooba to
the OalU del Paeifieo (PI. K, 10). Kame : Pacifico-Olorieta-de-Qnevedo.
56 Route 8. MADRID. Conaulatea.
b. From the Puerto del Sol (N. side) via the Calle de Preciados, Plaza
de Santo Domingo (PI. II; B, 7), and Calle de San Bernardo to the ITo-
ticiado (PI. II*, £, 9). Some cars go on to the Olorieta d« Quevedo (PI. I;
F, 4). Name same as the last.
c. From the Puerto dil Sol (N. side) by the Calle de Preciados, Plaza
de Santo Domingo (PI. II ; £, 7), Calle de Leganftos, Plaza de San Marcial
(PI. 11; E, 6), Paseo de San Vicente (PI. 11; D, 7), Estacidn del Norte
(PI. C, 6, 7), Qlorieta de San Antonio, and Pasdo de la Florida to the Botn-
&T«a (to the N.W. of PI. I; A, 3). Name: Puerta del Sol y BombiUa.
d. From the Puerto del Sol (8. side) by the Calle de Carretas and Calle
Imperial to the Plata de la Cebada (PI. II ; E, 9). Some cars go on to the Plaza
de San Francisco (PI, II; D, 9). Name: Puerta del Sol y Plaza de la Cebada.
y. Tbanvia db Leqakes.
From the Puerto del Sol (S. side) by the Plaza Mayor (PI. E, F, 8),
Calle de Toledo, Puerta de Toledo (PI. E, 10), and Carabanchel to Legan4e.
Name : Hadrid-Carabanchel-Legan^s.
c. Post, Telegraph, and Police Offices.
Poet Office (eomp. p. xviii). Corrio Central (PI. F, 8), or general post
office, Calle de Carre*as 10; branch-offices (Bttqfitat de Correo)^ Paseo de
Becoletos 14, Calle de Trafalgar 10, Calle Mendisdbal 6, CaUe Don Pedro 8,
and Calle de Atocha 126. — Foreign Letters must be posted at the naain
office (in the box marked ^extratnero') before 6 p.m., at the branch-oflices
and tobacconists by 4.30, 5, or 6.30 p.m. At the main office they may be
posted up to 7 p.m. in a special ^buzdn de alcance'', if a &c. stamp be added
to the ordinary postage. — Registration of Foreign Letters not later than
6 p.m. at the main office or 4 p.m. at the branch-offices. — foreign Money
Orders are issued up to 4 p.m. — Paste Rettanie Letters (^cartas en lista') are
distributed at the main office, 9-5. — Foreign Parcels must be handed in at
the Despacho Central of the N. Railway, Puerta del Sol 9.
Telegraph Office (comp. p. xix), Calle del Correo 3 (PI. II ; F, 8) ; branch
offices at the above-mentioned postal sub-offices and at Calle Juan de
Hena 3.
Telephones. Chief Call Office, Calle de Alcali 14-16.
Head Police Office (Gobiemo Civil i PI. II, £8), Calle Mayor 83.
d. Embaaeies. Conaulatea. Phyeiciane. Hospitals. Baths. Clubs.
• Beligioue Services.
British Ambaasador, SirH. Drvmmond Wolffs G. C. M. G., Calle de To-
rija 9. — United States Minister, General Steward L. Woodford^ Plaza de
San Martin 5.
British Consul, Herbert Harrison^ Calle de Torija 9. — United Statea
Consul, Ignaeio Figueroa Hernandety Plaza de San Martin 6.
Physicians. Br. R, M. Fenn^ Calle de Quintana 26 ; Dr. Kispert, physi-
cian to the British Embassy, Arco de Santa Maria 41 cuadr. ; Dr. Dussac^
Calle Caballeros de Gr^cia 8; Dr. Robert^ Calle de Peligros 1 duplicado ;
Dr. CortezOy Calle del Sacramento 6; Dr. Rivera^ Calle de Atocha 133.
Dentists. A. Darlington, Calle de Peligros 14-16; E.Highland, Calle de
Serrano 6; H. Heddy, Calle de AlcaU 88-35.
Chemists. R. A. Coipel, Calle de Barquillo 1 ; J. B. BaSiares. Calle de
San Bernardo 15. — Mineral Waters : /. M. Moreno, Calle Mayor 73.
Hospitals. None are good; the best is the Hospital de la Princeta,
Paseo de Areneros 1 (application should be made to the Midico de Oudr-
dia). — Ambulance Stations (Casas de Socorro), Plaza de la Constitucidn 3,
Calle de la Reina 35, Costanilla de los Angeles 1, Costanilla de los Desam-
parados 15, Calle del Fi&ear 8, Plaza de Cbamberi 7, Calle del Doctor
JUata 1, Meson de Paredes 46, Honda de Atocha 22, Carrara de San Fran-
cisco 17, Calle del Pez 24, Calle de Claudio Coello 13, and Plaza de Afligidos.
Baths iCasas dsBcMos; generally poor and dirty). Bafios Arabes^ Calle
de Velasquez 21; El Hidgara, Paseo de San Vicente 14, with swiniming
bath, douches, mineral and vaponr baths, etc. Fee to attendant 20-25 c.
Theatres, MADRID. 8, RouU. 57
Otebs. CaHnd de Madrid, Calle de AleaU 18, well fitted up; Jfiuvo
0M, Calle de AlcAli 49. Temporary foreign members admitted tor a fee
of 9^90 p. a month. -^ Aimec CimHJieo y JAterari0, Calle del Prado 21,
with a good library, for scientific and literary men. — Frmch Ca$tno,
Calle del Principe 14 ; Germemia CMby Calle de PaaU^jos 1 ; Otrman GjmuuuUe
CM, Calle del Prado 10 (entrance-fee 2 p., monthly subscription 3 p.)' —
Soeiedad de Cata (Hunt Club); El Vdcz Club (Jockey Chtb), AlcaU 15. —
iDtrodnction .by a member requisite in each ca<)e.
CharitaUe ImatitatioB for Foreincra. Hwm for EngUsk tmd Oemum
0<wmei$e$, Calle de Diego de Le6n S.
Ingliah Olnireb, Calle de Leganitos 4 (PI. 11^ E, 6); service on San. at
11 a.Di.j chaplain. Rn. R. H. Whereat^ Calle de Torija 9. — Spcmiih Pro-
taUmi Churchy Calle Beneficiencia 18 (11 a.m. t BUhop Cabrera). — Oerman
Prote$Umi Church, Calle Ventara de la Vega (10.30 a.m.; Fatt&r F. FKedner,
Calle Almadena 3).
e. Baaka, Sliopa, ete.
Banks. Uuim Bank of Spain and En^tand, Calle do Sevilla 7\ Cridii
Ljfomiaig, Puerta del Sol 10-, Voael A Co., 8al6n del Prado 12 { Cook S Son,
Carrera de San Jerdnimo 5. — Hosey Ohangert (Cambio). Cridtt Lfonnai*,
see above} also at Carrera de San Jerdnimo 3.
BookMllen (lAbrtrias). Homo y FOeeel, Calle de AlcaU 6; Baiay-
Bafttiire, Plaza de Santa Ana 10; Fernando Fi, Carrera de San Jerdnimo2;
MwrUlo, Calle de AlcaU 7. Moot of the booksellers keep Spanish and
French books only, and seldom know much of any but ttie most recent
publications. — Music: Zozaya, Carrera de San Jeronimo.
Vrwapapera (comp. p. xzii). Impareial (best supplied with foreign tele*
grams); Liberal (democratic); Epoca (conservative); Correepondeneia dt E»'
p<Aa (official); Don Quijote, illustrated comic Journal (democratic). The
Ottteta de Madrid, founded in 1661, is the oldest newspaper in Spain.
Pboidgraphs U the above-mentioned bookshops; Bautery Menet, Calle
de Ballesta 30.
Shops. Mantillas: OarcichLabiano Ctballoi y Miranda, Plaza de Santa
Crax 1 and 7. — Fans: Serra, Calle del Caballero de Gracia 16. — Manilla
Shawls ('Mantdnes de Manila): Grande, Calle de Postas 16-19. — Gloves
and Underwear: Magddlena, Tejada, Calle del Aren^l 16 and 4-7. — Tailor
(for ladies and gentlemen): Jeim, Carrera de San Jerdnimo 16. — Shoe
Makers: Vega, Calle del ArenalT; Sintdn, Puerta del Sol 9; Cayatte, Calle
de Alcali 38. — Perfumes : Per/umeria Ingleea^ Carrera de San Jeronimo 3.
— Watch Maker: Maurer, Calle de Sevilla 12. — Travelling Requisites:
Piter, Calle del Arenil 12. — Universal Providers : Bazar de la Union, Calle
Mayor 1 ; Btuar X, Calle Carretas 16-17.
Commiaaion Agents (for commissions of every kind in Madrid, Spain,
and foreign parts, for sending letters and parcels in Madrid, etc., with
ielephone): Continental Exprese, Carrera San Jerdnimo 15; Madrid Poetdl,
Calle de AlcaU 2. — Goods Agent ( Comieionieta) : L. Garrouete, Calle de
Alcali 3. — Strangers are not advised to use the Porters (Mozos de Cordel),
recognizable by their porter^s knot.
f. Theatres and other Plaees of Amusement.
Theatres (comp. p. xzvi; season from mid-October to the end of March),
*Tkatko BsiL (PI. £, 7), Plaza de Oriente 6, for Italian opera, opened in
I860 and accommodating 2400 spectators. Prices: box (pako) 36-150 p.,
besides the *entrada' of li/s p. for each pers.; stall (buiaca) 14-19 p., delantera
^e palco 7-9 p. Evening-dress is worn in the boxes, black coats in the
"taUs. — The following theatres are much cheaper: Tkatbo Espa^ol
(PI. n ; G, 8), Calle del Principe 29-31, built in 1806 and rebuilt in 1849,
for high-clasa drama and comedy; TsaTxo db la CokCdia (PI. II; G, 8),
CSaUe del Principe 14, erected in 1875 (on the drop-scene the 'Temple of
Immortality' by Joei Valh/oy, Teaxbo djs la Pkxxcbsa (PI. H,6), Calle deJ
58 Route 8. MADRID. ^ FestivaU.
Marqa^ de I» Ensenada, built in'1885, the last two for high-class comedy •,
Tbatbo db la ZabzuAla CPl. n i G, 7), Calle de . Jovellanos 4-6, built in
1866 for operettas, vaudevilles (zarzveku)^ and variety performances. —
At the following theatres, most of which are open in summer also, short
performances, lasting about 1 hr., are given, after each of which the house
is cleared (box 6-6, stall V*"* P): •Tbatbo db Laba (PI. F. 6), Corredera
Bi»a 16-17-, Tbatbo db Apolo (F1. II; G-, 7), Oalle de Alcala 49 duplicado-,
Tbatbo db Eslava (PI. II ; F, 7, 8), Pa^adito de San Gin^s 3. — Sumvbb
Thbatbb in the Jardin del Bvm RtUro (PI. H, 7), Plaza de Madrid (p. 67).
Circuses. Cireo d€ Parish (PI. 11; G, 7), Pla^a del Rey 2, also used for
operettas and ballets ; Circo de Colon (PI. 1 ; G, 6), a wooden structure in
the Plaza Alonso Martinez. Box'(palco) 10-12, butacas and silla-s 2-8 p.
Conoerts (generally in spring and autamn only). Orchestral concerts
in the Teatro del PrinHpe A^fotuo (PI. 11-, H, 6), Pas^o de EecoMtoa 33.
Chamber Music in the Saldn Romero^ Calle de Capellanes 10.
Bnll BiBg {Pkua de ToroM, PI. I, L 6-, comp. p. 86), to the E. of the
city, near tramway-line Ilia (p. 66). Tickets are sold at the entrance and
also, after 9 a.m. on the morning of the fight, in the kiosque at the corner
of the Calle de Sevilla and the Carrera de San Jeronimo.
Basque Ball Games (Juegoe de Pelota; comp. p. xxiz) in the ^fronlones'
Jai-Aldi. Calle Alfonso Doce 66 ; Beti-Jaij Calle del Marques de Riscal 5;
EUtkaH-Jai^ Calle del Marques de la Easenada.
Horse Baces (Carreras de Caballos) in spring and autumn in the ffip6-
dromo (PI. I: H, 1, 2 ; p. 92), under the patronage of the Socieddd del Fomento
de la Crfa Caball^r (society for the encouragement of horse-breeding).
g. Ecclesiastical and Popular Festivals. Street Life.
The Madrid Festivals, Popular Celebrations, Processions, and the like
are every year becoming less brilliant and less characteristic.
Qn the Dia de Reyes or Twelfth Night (Jan. 6th) the streets and shops
are thronged with an animated crowd. Troops of boys, especially in the
remoter district, perambulate the streets with torches, ladders, bells, and
drums, halting from time to time ^to receive information of the move-
ments of the arriving Magi\ A ^messenger' invariably tells them that
Uhe Magi have altered their route and are coming in at the other end of
the city*, whereupon the whole troop scampers off in the direction in-
dicated, to take up the performance ^da capo\
On Las Vueltas de San AntoniOy or St. Antonyms Day (Jan. 17th), horses,
oxen, and newly clipped mules and asses are led (from about 8 p.m. on-
wards) to the church of St. Antony, in the Calle de Hortaleza. where
they are solemnly blessed by a priest standing at the entrance. Tnis part
of the city afterwards presents a somewhat lively appearance, as it is the
use and wont of the owners of the animals to repair to a tavern after
each ^vnelta\
The Madrid Carnival does not compare with the same celebration in
other countries and ha9 been justly dubbed the ^Feast of Rag, Tag^ and
Bob-tair. Almost the only part of it of any interest to the stranger is the
Corso, which takes place in the Park of Buen Retiro on the afternoons of
Carnival Week. On the third day of the Carnival (Martes de Cai-navdl) the
estudiantinas and comparsas assemble at 3 p.m. in front of the Royal Palace
and enjoy themselves with music and dancing. The Children's Masked BaUt^
held in the afternoon in the Teatro Real (p. 57) and the Teatro de la
Zarzuela (see above), are attractive. The only other Mcuied Ball that can be
safely visited by ladies is that in the Teatro Real. — The so-called EnUerro
de la Sardina^ or farewell festival of the Carnival, is celebrated, with
a copious accompaniment of eating and drinking, on the canal (Manza-
nares), outside the Paerta de Toledo and the Puerta de Atocha, on the
afternoon of Ash Wednesday.
Holt Wbbk. In order not to interfere with the masses of pious
church-goers on Man»dy Thursday (Juives Santo) and Cfood Friday (Yiimet
Santo)f all wheeled traffic is forbidden on these days, and even the tram-
way service is almost entirely discontinued. — About midday on Good
Festival. MADRID. 8. Route. 59
Friday and Bad§r amOag the so-oaUed 'ITvriage Marked (Bl FMr di
tat dt G^mu). in the Calle Aloaltf, between the churches of Calatrava and
San Jo8^, affords a very characteristle scene; the women who have been
at church appear here in great numbers, most of them wearing mantillas
and flowers in their hair. ^ Daring the principal festirals part of the
famous collection of tapestry (p. 97) is exhibited to the public in the
staircase and the gallery at the Sc^ai Fataee. On Ifaandy Thursday the
(^een Kegent washes the feet of twelre poor men and women (Lcnatirio)
and then feeds them (Comida) in the 3ai6n de las Golumnas; tickets for
this ceremony may be applied for seyeral days before at the Intendencia
(p. 60). On Good Friday a procession and serrioe are held in the palace
ehapel. During the latter the Queen Regent generally commutes a number
of death-sentences, this act of clemency being notified to the spectators
by the Mibstltution of red for black bands on the rolls of paper contain-
ing the sentences. — While this picturesque old ceremony is being en-
acted at court, the Calle de la Princesa is the scene of the notorious
Romtria d» la Cora d§ Didt (^pilgrimage to the face of Ood'). This begins
on Maundy Thursday in front of the littte church of the Cara de Dios, and
is continued all night The noisiest scene takes place before the prison
(PI. F, 9), where the crowd indulges in enormous quantities of pancakes
and brandy. The celebration ends on the morning of Good Friday with a
promenade in the Calle de la Princesa, in which the demimonde is largely
in eridence. This *romerfa* seldom ends without the use of the knife and
other acts of drunken ruffianism. — The Procuidn dtl Santo BnHerro in
front of the church of San Oinds on Good Friday afternoon is interesting
for its pa$ot (p. 990), or groups of real figures, participated in by members
of the oldest and most aristocratic families. — On Saturday morning all
the hells of the city peal to celebrate the Resurrection Ciocar d gloria").
The festlTal of the Dot do Mayo (May 2nd) commemorates the rising
described at p. 64. In the morning a large procession marches to the mon-
ament (p. 67), where a religidus service is held.
On May 15th begins the Bomoria do San loidro dd Campo, the tutelary
saint of the city, which lasts a fortnight and is largely attended by the
peasants from the surrounding districts. The goal of the pilgrimage is
thcErmita de San Isidro (PI. I; B, 11), on the W. bank of the Manzanlres.
The best time to visit the scene is the afternoon of one of the first three
or four days; parties that include ladies should leave before the later
part of the evening. A fair is held near the Ermita, at which all sorts
of earthenware vessels are sold to carry off the wonder-working water
from the church-spring.
In June is held the JYoeooidn del Corptu, or Corpus Christi procession,
which is taken part in l)y the higher clergy, the chief military and civil
dignitaries, and the court-officials. This procession, once the most elab-
orate of all the church-festivals of Madrid, is best witnessed in the Puerta
del Sol. — Among less important processions are those of the Minorva de
8m AndriSy starting at the church of San Andres on the afternoon of
Jane 18th) the Minerva de San Mareoo^ in the Calle Isab^ la Catolica
(June 30th)) the Proceeidn de la Virgen da Carmen^ from the church of
San Jos€ (p. 67; afternoon of July 16th); and the'iV*occn'<fn de San Lorenzo ^
from the church of that name, in the Travesia de San Lorenzo (Aug. 10th).
The church-festivals in June. July, and August are usually preceded
by the so-called VerbinoUj a kind of evening or night fair. Among these
may be mentioned the verbena de San Antonio de la Florida^ at the little
chnrch of that name (p. 103; June 12th); the Verbena de San Lorenzo^ in
the populous quarter of the Lavapi^ (Aug. 9th); and the Verbena de la
Pdtoma^ near the small church in the Calle de la Paloma (Aug. 14th).
On the eve of St. John's Day (June 23rd-24tb) a crowd assembles round
the Cybele Fountain, in the Plaza de Madrid (p. 67)i and as soon as the
clock in the tower of the Banco de Espana tolls midnight, those within
reach dip their heads in the water or throw handfuls of it over those
standing farther off. This is an ancient custom, originally practised at a
fountain in the Puerta del Sol which is no longer extant.
On the days of All Saints and All Souls (Nov. 1st and Nov. 2nd) tak
60 BouU 8, MADRID. Street Life.
place the Commemcracidn de lot FUlu DifwHot., when the cemeteries are
visited by large crowds and the graves decked with flowers.
On the ^Awdoff before Advent (end of Nov. or beginning of Dec.) an
official of the ecclesiastical court (Rota) rides through the principal streets
and reads the ^decree concerning the j^roclamation of the Bull of the Holy
Crusade^ (Bula de la Santa Cruzada) in front of the palace, the residence
of the papal nuncio, the ministry of justice, the central police-office, the
municipal offices, and elsewhere. He is accompanied by the city ^Algua-
ciles* and by a number of drummers and trumpeters from the royal stables,
all clad in costumes of the 17-18th centuries. This bull, first issued by
Julius II. and confirmed by Pius IX. in 1849, grants to all Spaniards, at
home and abroad, the same indulgences as the Crusade bulls of Urban II.
and Innocent III. Kezt day, at 10 a.m., the bull is carried from the papal
church of San Miguel (Calle San Justo A) to Santa Maria la Beal (CaUe
Sacramento 7), where it is again read.
The celebration of Chriitnuu Day (Naviddd) has lost most of its former
brilliance. A so-called MUa del OaUo ('cock-crow mass'), or midnight mass,
is held at most of the churches on Christmas Eve. At its close the aud-
ience unites in singing the 'villancicos' relating to the birth of the Sav-
iour, accompanying the song with all kinds of noisy instruments. — The
same night the lower classes perambulate the chief streets, with songs,
and shouts, and drum-beating, while the caf^s in the Puerta del Sol are
crowded from midnight on. — It is worth while visiting the large Christ-
mas fruit-market in the Piazza May<Sr, especially in the evening, when
the closely packed stalls are brilliantly illuminated.
During the presence of the court, Ottard Mounting takes place in the
court-yard of the palace daily, at 11 a.m. — Almost every Sat. afternoon,
at four o'clock, the members of the royal family, accompanied by the
chief court-officials and by the rojal body-guard, drive through the Oalles
Bail^n, Ferraz, and Ventura Rodriguez to the IgkHa del JSuei^ Suceto (Calle
Princesa 21*, PI. I, D 5), where they attend the *Salve\ A diflferent route
is sometimes selected in returning.
Street life. The chief centres of traffic are the Puerta del Sol, with
the streets converging on it, the Plaza May<5r, the Calle de Toledo, and
the Plaza de Oriente. Towards evening the favourite resorts are the Calle
de AlcaU, the Paseos de Recoil tos, de la Castellans, and del Prado, and
the Buen Retiro Park. In the firstruamed paseos and in the park the
world of fashion seldom appears except in carriages (comp. p. o7). — A
morning visit should be paid to the markets (mercadoi), especiaUy that
in the Plaza de la Ceb^da (p. 105)^ the traveller, however, must not ex-
pect to see much that is characteristically Spanish, as most of the old-
tashioned Madrid types and costumes have disappeared for ever. — In the
height of summer the streets are almost deserted until the cool of the
evening', according to the proverb no creature exposes himself to the
sun except un perro 6 un franeit ('a dog or a Frank', i.e. a foreigner).
The liveliest scenes are witnessed in the Saldn del Prado and the Buen
Betiro Park after 9 p.m.
h. List of Ohief Oollectiona and Other Sights.
The Churchss, none of which, except San Francisco el Orande (p. 104),
are of much interest, are generally open before 10 a.m. and from 4 to
7 p.m. — The Pbivatb Palaces are rarely of any architectural importance,
but some of them, sucL as the Palaeio de Murga (p. 86), contain valuable
treasures of art, which, however, are seldom open to the public. — The
McssDMs are generally closed on festivals (dia* fesHvos) and also, strangely
enough, on rainy days (diae Uuviotos) ; during the festival of San Isidro
(p. 69), up to about May 23rd, they are apt to be uncomfortably crowded.
*Acad4mia de BeUat Artee (p. 66), daily, 10 12 and 2-4, on preaentation
of passport or permesao (papeUta); fee V«-i P-
"Armeria (p. 97), daily, 10-12 ; ticket, good for 6 pers., obtained between
1 and 6 p.m. at the 'Intenddncia General de la Real Casa y Fatrimonio',
ColUetioM, MADRID. 8. RouU. 61
in the H.B. ftogle of the Plau de Amnaa (8. tide of the FsUmIo Beti,
mUoteea Naciinai (p. fiO), on week-day8, 8-2 (in winter 10-4): MS.
Boom, 10-4.
OabamHau (p. 98), on Mob., 1-1, by tieket obtained At the Intend^neU
Oeneril (see Above).
Com de Campo Cp. 103), daily, by ticket obtained at tbe Intend^ncla
Oenerti.
Colegio de BordthMmdM (p. OS), on Mon. afternoon^ Ueketo (50 o. each)
in the book-shop of San Martin, PuerU del Sol 6.
Depdsitot del Canal de lozofa (p. 93), daily, ticket (good for 6 pers., 1 p.)
at San Mertin'e (flee aboye).
gecmOa de VeUrimaria (v. 105), on Mon., T^es., Tbars., ft 8at., 10-3;
tickets (fiO c. each) at San Martin's (see above).
Jardin Botdnieo (p. %), daily from May to end of Oct., from 4 p.m. till
daak-, at other seasons on Mon., Tues., Thurs., ft Sat., 10-3, by ticket (GOe.)
at San Martin's (see above).
Muteo AntropoldgicQ (p. lOn, daUy, 10-12 and 2-6 -, tfcket obtained at the
Seeretaria de la tlDiversidad Centrti, Calle San Bernardo 51.
*Mueeo ArqueoUgieo Nadonal (p. 86), daily, 9-1 (in winter on week-days
11-5, Snn. and fesUvalfl 9-1).
Miueo de Arte Modemo (p. 90), not yet open to the public (intending
Tiiitors may apply to the director P. Madrazo).
•Mneeo de ArliOeria (p. (»), on Taes. ft Sat., 10-3; ticket (6 pers. •, 1 p.)
at San Martinis (see above).
Muteo de Ciweiae Naturalei (p. 92); no a 1 mission at present.
Mueeo de lngenilro» (p. 85), on Taes. ft Frid., 10-3^ ticket as above.
Mueeo Naoal (p. 100), on Tnes. ft Frid., 10-3; ticket as above.
**Mv»eo del Prado (p. 70), open in winter daily, 9-4 (Mon. 1-4), 50 c. ;
OB Sun., 10-3, free; in summer daily, 7-1 (50 c.; Sun. free).
Jfuseo Ptoto-HutoiHco Iberico (p. 86), adm. on Mon., Wed., Frid., 10-1,
through the Conserje (fee 1 p.).
Mueeo de Beprodwcionee Artietieae (p. 69), daily, 8-6.
Mueeo y BibHoteca de UUramar (p. 84), daily, except Wed., 1-5 (in sum-
mer 7-10 and 5-7).
Obeervatorio AMrondmico (p. 107), daily, on application to the IMrector.
J*alacio del Cengrao (p. 69). The public gallery is generally over-
crowded daring the sittings of the Cortes, which usually begin at 3 p.m.
Admission to the other galleries is obtained through one of the deputies.
When the house is not sitting, visitors are admitted on application to the
*conserje' (fee 1 p.).
Ptdacio Real (p. 95), accessible in the absence of the royal family by
written permission from the Intendente General (p. 60). The courts and
chapel are always open.
JPfaea de Toroe (p. 86), daily, except on bull-fight days, for a fee of 1 p.
Ohief Attnetioae. Pueria del Sol (p. 65); Mueeo del Prado (p. 70);
Jesfi BeHro (p. 84); Paeeoe del Prado. de BeeeUtoe^ and de la CaeteUana
(pp. 69, 86. 92); Mueao ArqueoUffieo (p. 86); Aeadimia de BeUaeArUe (p. 66);
Armeria (p. 97); Pkua de Oriente (p. 90); View from the CampiUo de lae
VIeUllae (p. 104). A superficial idea of Madrid may be obtained in two or
three days, but fully uiat time ought to be devoted to the magnificent
Picture Gallery of the Prado alone. The Armeria, though not of such
general interest, has even fewer rivals in its own field. Perhaps the only
maadulterated Spanish article in the now almost entirely ^Earopeaniaed*
Madrid is the buU-Aghk
MadM (accent on second eyllable, and final d almost Inaudible),
witli 500,000 inhab., the capital of Spain, the residence of the king
(^la ViUa y CorW), and seat of a bishop, a university, and the Cap-
tain-General of New Castile, is now one of the finest cities in Europ
62 BouteS. MADRID. CUmate,
though denied by nature of almost every suitable condition for a
metropolis. As capital of the United Kingdom of Spain, it took the
' place of the several capitals of the formerly independent Spanish
states; it was a political creation, a historical necessity. Philip II., the
most powerful of Spanish monarchs, was practically debarred from
choosing as the capital of his united kingdom of *Las Espafias* either
the Aragonese Saragossa, or the Castilian Burgos, or the Ylsigothic
Toledo, or the Moorish Cordova or Seville ; hence he created a new-
capital, on an excrescence near the geographioal centre of the pen-
insula, in the midst of a bleak and elevated steppe, with neither
an important river nor a decent forest in the vicinity,' and with a
climate made dangerously treacherous by the neighbourhood of the
Guadarrama Mts. t Madrid, now the centre of a system of railways
embracing the entire peninsula In its net, is a parvenu, which has
grown great at the expense of the provinces.
Madrid lies on the insignificant river Manxandre$, in 3®41'51"
W. long, and 40** 24' 30" N. lat. The astronomical observatory lies
270 ft. above this stream and 2160 ft. above the sea. Its changeable
and sometimes even dangerous climate is conditioned by this lofty
situation, in the midst of an interminable, treeless, and almost un->
cultivated plain, and by the propinquity of the Sierra de Quadar^
rama, a great mountain-range which in winter is slightly covered
with snow and, if the wind comes from the N.W., hurls down icy
storms and rain on the unprotected country. The range of temperature
within a few hours often amounts to Sb^ Fahr. or even more. The
air is so keen and so subtle that, according to a popular couplet, it
■ .will kill a man, while it will not blow out a candle (^el aire de Madrid
es tan sutil^ que mala d un hombre y rho apaga d un candiV). Afifec-
•tions of the lungs are too easily acquired, while typhus and typhoid
fevers are less frequent. All should be especially on their guard
against chills and colds. ^Hasta el cuarenta del Mayo no te quiies el
sayo' ; wait for May 40th before you lay aside your cloak ! — The
public rooms of the best hotels and caf^s are now generally heated
t It should be noted, however, that the vicinity of Madrid was not
always so destitute of trees. Avgote de Molinas, writing in 1582, mentions
Madrid as charming for its shady situation and extensive woods 'well
suited for hunting stags, boars, and even bears\ The reason of the pre-
sent state of affairs is given by Sir John Talbot Dillon (1780): ^ITothing
can be more bleak or dismal than the general aspect of the country round
the seat of its monarch, and that chiefly from the great want of trees, to
which the Castilians have an intense dislike, from a false notion that they
increase the number of birds to eat up their corn, forgetting not only that
in their climate the shade and shelter of the foliage are required, but also
that without them they have no means of securing moisture, and preterv-
ing it after dews and rains'.
'Since the building of the new water-works, green oases of groves
have sprung up again, and these, it is said, are already beginning to
modify the climate, so that it is probable that if the present policy is
continued, irrigation may restore to Madrid its former pleasant climate'*
-^. r. Fiwk).
History, MADRID. 8. Routt. 63
by iion stoves (utufas), but the mnseoms and galleries still depend
on the inadequate braziers (bnueroij, — The best time to visit
Madrid is from the middle of April till the end of May, or from the
middle of September till the end of November. December is the
wettest month, January the coldest The heat of July, August, and
the fLrst half of September is almost unbearable. All who can possibly
manage it then seek refuge on the Mediterranean coast, at La Granja,
at Eseorial, or at the popular bathing-resorts of the N.W. provinces.
Madrid first appears in history in the 10th cent, in the form of
the fortified Moorish outpost of Madjrtty occupying the site of the
present loyal palace and intended to check the advance of the Re-
eonquistadores of Castile. This fortress was adjoined on the S.
by a small settlement. Alfonso VI. captured Madjrit in 1083
and converted the Arab mosque into the Jgletia de la Virgen de la
AknudSna (p. 90). The Castilian monarchs endowed the town with
many fn^ios (p. 4), and it grew rapidly, extending at first to the
Puerto Latina, Gerrada, and de Guadalaj&ra and afterwards to the
Puerto de Santo Domingo, de San Martin, and del Sol. The arms
of the dty represent a man climbing an arbutus-tree (madrono)y
below which stands a bear. They originated in a law-suit between
the city and the clergy, in which the forest under dispute was as-
signed to the former, the pasture to the latter.
In 1329 Ferdinand lY. assembled the first Corte$ in 'MadrU\
In 1383 King John I. handed over 'the lordship of the town to King
Leo v., who had been expelled from Armenia; but on the death of
the latter Madrid reverted to Castile. The unquiet times during
the long minority of Henry III. caused the court to move to Segovia, •
because Madrid did not seem strong enough (^por no $«r fueric
aqudla vUia'). At the elose of Henry IV.'s reign Madrid was shaken
by new troubles. The adherents of *La Beltraneja', the daughter of
Benry lY., took possession of the Alcazar and were besieged in it
for two months by the Duque del Infantado. Quieter days followed
the accession of Ferdinand and Isabella, the ^Reyes Catolicos' (1477).
The Jews, however, were expeUed and their synagogues destroyed.
The madness of Johanna ^la Loca' and the uncertainty of the suc-
cession on the death of Ferdinand embroiled Madrid once more.
Cardinal Ximenez, surnamed CimSrot by the Spaniards, is the
dominant figure in this period. — Under Charlbs Y. Madrid
espoused (1520) the cause of the ComunSros, or opponents of the
centralisation of authority in United Spain. After the defeat of this
party at YiUalar (1521) Charles Y. visited Madrid (1524), partly
to cure himself of a fever contracted at Yalladolid, for in those days
Madrid, not yet entirely divested of its woods, was considered a
healthy resort. In 1525 Francis I. of France, taken prisoner at the
battle of Pa via, was brought to Madrid, where he was confined first
in the Torre de los Luj&nes (p. 103), and then in the Alcazar. The
following year, however, through the exertions of his mother and of
64 RouUS. MADRID. History.
his sister, the Queen of Navarre, he obtained his liberty and married
the Princess Leonora , sister of Charles. At the beginning of the
16th cent, the town contained abont 3000 inhabitants.
Philip II. definitely and finally made Madrid the royal resi-
dence and declared it in 1660 the Uniea Corte. At first, however,
the town, then containing 2500 houses and 26-30,000 inhab., de-
rived little advantage from this move. The court did nothing for it,
except to cut down the last remaining forests to defiray its expenses.
The so-called Regalia de Aposentoa made the owners of large houses
responsible for the lodging of the courtiers and the noblesse, with
the result that the only houses built were the small and low ^Casai
d la malieia\ which were exempt from this burden. The develop-
ment of the town was thus unnaturally checked ; and down to the
beginning of the 18th cent. Madrid remained a badly-built, dirty,
and unhealthy place, inhabited by a shifting and unstable population.
In spite of all, however , it was in this period that Spanish art and
letters attained their zenith. Cervantes lived at Madrid from 1609
till his death in poverty seven years later, and wrote here the second
part of 'Don Quixote' and other works. Velazquez here produced his
miracles of colouring. Calderon here conducted the Spanish drama
out of the popular channel of Lope de Vega, that 'mdnstruo de la
naturaleza' as Cervantes called him, into the mystic and court-like
forms that befitted the Spanish idea of religion and honour.
The 18th century brought the Bourbons, and the building of the
great royal palace. The most prominent name in the new dynasty is
that of Charles III., who resigned the throne of Naples in 1759 to
* ascend that of Spain. Every great enterprize was either begun or
completed by him. Charles IV. abdicated in 1808. This was followed
by the Revolution of May 2nd {Dos de Mayo ; p. 59) and the en-
trance of Joseph Bonaparte^ the so-called 'Rey Pepe' or *Pepe BotrfUa'.
Joseph also earned the popular title of *Rey Plazuelas' by his efforts
to supply lungs for Madrid through the destruction of convents and
whole blocks of buildings (mansdnas); but these undertakings were
soon put an end to by the restoration and the return otFerdinand VII.
Madrid increased and improved mightily during the ensuing period
of revolution and change, marked by the contests for the constitution
of 1812 (p. 437), the wars between the Carllsts and Oristinos (p. 4),
and the struggle between the party of the past, with its great re-
collections, and the party of the future, with its great expectations.
In the middle of the 18th cent, a Spanish author could still write
that Madrid '•era la corte mas sdxia que se eonocfa en Eufopd' ('the
dirtiest capital in Europe'), and another compares It with an African
village. A little later, hovrever, the pride of the Madrileno in his
city was embodied in the proud saying : 'Dc Madrid pi cielo y en el
cielo un ventanillo para ver h Madrid* (from Madrid to Heaven and
Meaven a loophole to look at Madrid). For the Spaniard the
is in truth la yema de Espana (the yolk of the Spanish egg).
Puerta del Sol. MADRID. 8. RouU. 65
A good idea of the lita&tlon of Madrid may be obtained flrom the
Itf^e relief In the Aitillary Mttseum (p. 68). The city lies on an
uodnlatiDg diluvial plateau of clay and sand, which rises about 430 ft.
between the Manzanares on the S. W. and the Lozoya Canal on the N.
This plateau is furrowed by deep depressions, formerly the beds of
torrents (arroyoi) descending to the Manzanares. The largest of
these is that separating the city proper from the Prado and the new
£. suburb, and containing the Paseos de la Gastellana, de Recoltftos,
and del Prado. During heavy rain the water still flows down through
this natural ^rambla* (p. xxxvlii), though now in channels specially
prepared for it, and finally enters the Manzanares as the Arroyo del
Hotpital. Among the smaller arroyos of the past are the Calles del
Arenal, de Segovia, de Toledo, and de £mbajad6res. The Galle de
Jaeometrezo, on the other hand, runs along a ridge from end to end.
The city with its New Qua&tbbs is rapidly spreading over all
these heights and hollows, particularly in the Barrio de Ghamberf
towards the N. and over the Afueras de Buenavista on the N.£.
The Bueu Retire forms a barrier to its extension on the £., and the
Manzanares on the W. The Manzanares, usually very scantily
supplied with water, is spanned by the following B&idobs : on the
N.W., the Puente Verdt (Pi. I; B, 6), adjoining the ErmiU de Sail
Antonio de la Florida ; on the W., the PaenU del Bey (PI. G, 7),
constructed in the reign of Ferdinand VII. between the Gampo del
Moro and the Casa de Campo, and the Puente de Segovia (VV. 0, 8],
built by the celebrated Juan de Herrera (1784); on the S., the
PuaUe de Toledo (PI. I; D, 11), completed in 1732 and profusely
decorated In the rococo style. The banks of the river are constantly
rlsiag through the silting up of the stream , whence the piers are
partly buried in the ground.
A. From the PaertA del Sol to the Prado.
The Puerte del Sol (PI. F, 7, 8), the largest and most animated
plaza in Madrid, derives its name from an old gateway, on the E.
side of which was a representation of the sun. It has been the real
political arena of Spanish history from the Gomun^ro movement in
1520 (p. 63) down 4o the latest times. Its space was found too
limited as far back as 1570, and the ^gateway of the sun' was
removed. Since then the plaza has been several times enlarged. It
received its present form in 1856. The buildings around it are large
and high, but of no architectural importance. The largest is the
UvnUUrio de la Oobernacidn (PL F, 8), or Ministry of the Interior
(formerly the post-office), on the S. side^ on its facade is a Normal
Ctoefc, regulated from the Astronomical Observatory. On all sides
are large hotels and caf^s (comp. pp. 63, 64). No fewer than ten
streets end in this plaza.
The Gasbb&a de Sjlk Jbb6nimo and the Gallb i>b AloalX lead
to the E. from the Puerta del Sol to the great paseos on the T
Baedekbb's Spain. 5
66 RouU 8. MADRID, a. FVom the Puerta del
margin of the inner city. The flret of these, containing tb
elegant shops in Madrid, fonns the' shortest route to the
(p. 67). After ahont ^4 M. it expands into the Plaza de la«^
(p. 68). The Calle de AlcaU, the widest street in the innei
is a fashionable promenade (comp. p. 60) and a favourite rdi
pnhlic processions. No. 11 in this street, to the left, is the 4
Beal Acadimia de Bellas Artoi (PI. F, 7), formerly thi
demia de Nobles Aries de San Fernando , founded in 1752 K
culture of painting, sculpture, architecture, and music. Tlj
floor contains a small •Pictubb Gallbby (adm., see p. 60;*
to the right), chiefly of works by Spanish masters, among whfl
some of the noblest creations of Murillo. Catalogue in prepan
We first enter the ScUdn de Sesionts^ the last room to thi
containing the gems of the collection: **MuriUoj Dream A
Roman Knight that led to the foundation of Santa Maria Mai
at Rome, and the Interpretation of the Dream, two of the!
perfect and fascinating works of the master, alike in the figures
colour, and the chiaroscuro. Soult carried off these pictures I
Santa Maria la Blanca at Seville. — Rubens, Monk kneeling betH
Christ and the Virgin, a' work of his middle period, painted 4
the aid of his pupils ; *MuriU0y Ascension ; Riberay Ecce Homa
** Murillo f St. Elisabeth of Hungary healing the sick, known aifi
Tifioso', brought by Soult from the Caridfid at Seville. The reall
fidelity in the representation of the cripples and the lepen
counterbalanced by the artistic handling of the light and the se4
beauty of the royal saint. — Vomenichino, Head of John the Bap'
Between the windows : Alonso Cano^ Crucifixion.
Middle Room (adjoining the last). Marinus, St. Jerome (163
Murillo f Ecstasy of St. Francis, St. Diego of AlcaU feeding the pa
*Riberaj Assumption of the Magdalen, an early masterpiece (162
Zurbardn, Ecstasy of St. Benedict, a clear and admirable w|
(1630); Raphael Mengs, Portrait of a woman. Several clever ske
by Goya, of bull-fights , mad-houses, scenes of the Carnival
Inquisition. — We pass through the comer-room to the —
Entrance Room. A. Pereda, Dream of the Connoisseur. The i
scription 'aBteme pungit, clto volat et occidit' refers to the fly
dart. According to others, the picture symbolizes the transitor
of all earthly things. — Rubens, Susannah at the bath, a coarse ail
early work (1610) ; Juan Cabtxalero, Representation of a miraolff^:^^^
Ribera, Ecstasy of St. Francis; Morales^ Pieta. ^y ^
Last Room to the right Madrazo, Queen Isabella II. ; *Qoya,yQi
Two portraits of a Maja, or girl of the people, reclining on a divan^p^
(one nude, the other draped). ^-i
A few paces farther on, beyond the Calle de Peligros, to the left, ^\
stands the Iglesia de las CalatravoB (PI. II ; G, 7), dating from the v^^
17th century. To the right , at the corner of the Calle de Sevilla, v^'^j
H
6
to the Prado. MADRID. 8. kouU, 67
is the handsome office of the Equitablt Inturanee Co, (E^itatha).
Farther on, to the left, are the ohnrch of San «7(M^(P1. G, 7), erected
in 1742, and the Teatro de Apolo (p. 68).
The Calle del Barqnillo, diverging to the left hy the Teatro de Apolo,
leads to the amall Plaza del Rey (PI. G, 7), with garden-beds and a statue,
by Xariano BenlHnre, of Limtmiant Jacinto JZin'r, one of the participators
in the revolution of the Dos de Mayo (see below). -^ On the K. aide of the
plaza liea the Oirco (U Pari$/i,
Kearly opposite the Teatro de Apolo , at the corner of the Calle del
Turco, is the spot where General Ftim was mardered in 1870.
We have now reached the end of that part of the Calle de Alcaic
that lies in the inner city. To the left, in a large garden , stands
the Palaeio del MinUteno de la Ouerra (PI. G, H, 7; war-omce),
which was formerly the property of the notorious Godoy (p. 124\ the
^Prince of the Peace*, but was confiscated by the state in 180o. In
1841-43 it was occupied by the Regent Espartero, and in 1869-70
by Gen. Prim. To the right, with its principal facade (880 ft. long)
turned towards the Sal6n del Prado, is the handsome Baiieo de
Bspafi* (PI. H, 7), erected in 1884-91 by Eduardo de Adaro and
Severiano Sanvt de la Laatra.
The Calle de AlcaU now intersects the Plaza db BiAD&ii> (PI. II ;
H, 7), in the centre of which rises the *Ffiente de Cib^lea^ a beau-
tiful fountain by Bobert Michel and Francisco Gutierrez (18th cent.),
with a marble group representing the goddess Cybele in a chariot
drawn by two lions. At the S.£. corner of the square, in the garden
of the former Palaeio de San Juan, is the popular Jardin del Buen
Retiro (p. 68), with its summer-theatre. — The outer Calle de
AlcaU leads to the £. from the Plaza de Madrid to the Plaza de
la Independencia (p. 85), with one of the main entrances of the
Buen Retiro Park (p. 84), and on to the Plaza de Toros (p. 86).
To the left (N.) runs the beautiful Paseo de Recol^tos. In the mean-
time we turn to the right (S.) and enter the — '
*Prado, the famous ^meadow' (pratwn) of San Jer6nimo, so
often celebrated by Lope de Vega and other poets. • It was once the
most fashionable promenade in Madrid,, but has been thrown some-
what into the shade by the new paseos to the N. We first reach the
wide Salof del Prado (PI. H, 7, 8), which has several rows of trees.
Near the middle of it is the fine Fuente de Apolo^ erected by Ventura
Rodriguez in 1780 and decorated with statues of Apollo and the
Seasons by Manuel Alvarez. Near this fountain, in the midst of the
pleasure-grounds of the semicircular Plaza de la Lealtad', rises the
Koniundnto del Doi de Kayo (PI. H, 8), consecrated to the ^Martyrs
of Liberty' who fell on May 2nd, 1808, in the attempt to expel the
French from the city, and in particular to Luis Daoi% and Pedro
Velardej two artillery officers who trained on the French the guns
in the park of MonteWon (pp. 69, 94). This rising, which began at
the palace on account of the carrying off of the royal princes, was
mercilessly put down by Murat. The *blood bath' in which he ex-
ecuted some hundreds of peaceful citizens in the Prado is commem-
6*
68 Route 8, MADRID . a. JVom the Puerta del 861
orated in Goya's picture mentioned at p. 82. Though it failed
in its immediate object , the brave attempt roused the people of
Spain to the *War of Liberation' (*Guerra de Independtfncia'), and
led to tbe effective intervention of the British under Wellington.
The monument, erected in 1840 from the design of Isidro Velazquez
and enclosed by a railing, consists of two portions. The lower part
is a structure of grey granite, with a sarcophagus , medallions of
Daoiz and Velarde, the arms of Madrid, two inscriptions, and the
'Spanish lion. Above this rises an obelisk of yellowish granite from
the Hoyo de Mauzanares, surrounded by allegorical figures. — For
the annual celebration of the Bos de Mayo, comp. p. 59,
Behind the monument, to the left, is the Bolia de Gomercio
(PI. H, 7; Exchange), a tasteful classic building by Enrique Maria
BepuUes (1893), with a portico borne by six Corinthian columns.
— From the Plaza de la Lealtad the Calle de la Lealtad ascends
towards the £. In it, to the right, at some distance from the street,
on the site of the old Palace of Buen Retire (p. 86), stands the
*][TiBeo de ArtUleria (PI. II; H, 8), founded in 1803 and rebuilt
in 1890. It contains a very interesting collection of relief plans,
models, weapons, trophies, and patriotic relies.
Chrottud Floor. Booh I (in front). Guns captured in campaigns against
Moorish pirates and in Gocbin China, including some richly ornamented
Bronze Om* of Malay Pirates. Collection of minerals. — Boom II. Model
of the Alcazar of Segovia. Large relief-plan of Madrid in 1830. — Boom III.
Extensive collection of Cannon and their appurtenances. Carriage in which
Qen. Prim was assassinated (p. 67). Table used by Charles V. at Villa-
viciosa (p. 491) on his arrival in Spain (1517).
rirst Floor. Boom I. Equestrian portrait of Gen. O'Donnell. Battle
of Tetuan (1860), painted by Sans. Moorish tent captured in the war with
Morocco (I860). Banner of Charles V. Tent of Charles F., used in the
campaign against Tunis (1535). Banners, models of bridges and fortifica-
tions, etc. — BdoM II. Portraits of Alfonso XII. and of the Queen-Eegent
with the little Alfonso XIII. Gun and equipage, presented by Enipp to
Alfonso XII. — Boom III. Native weapons from the American and Asiatic
colonies of Spain. ^Staiue of a Philippine Chief of the island of Mindanao.
Armour from the Philippine Islands. Wooden shields. Chinese bow.
Armour of a Mexican cacique. Tom-tom. — Boom IV. Model* of Quns.
— Boom V. Model of a large Krupp cannon. — Boom VI. Colketion of
Armour from the middle ages tp the present day. — Boom VII. ffittorical
Coll-eetion. Weapons and uniforms of famous Spanish generals. Banner
of the Veterans in Venezuela. Bemains of the banner carried by Fernando
Cortez in the conquest of Mexico. Weapons and banners taken from the
Cubans. Model of a fortress , presented by the Emperor of Austria to
Charles IV. Table on which the Treaty of Vergara (p. 19) was signed.
— Boom VIII. Coffins, portraits, and other reminiscences of Daoiz and
Velarde (p. 67). Moorish Sword of Aliatar, Alcalde of Loya. Portraits of
celebrated Spanish generals.
The S. end of the Salon del Frado is embellished by the Fuente
de Neptuno^ by J. Pascual de Mena (18th cent.). This stands op-
posite the Plaza db las Oobtes (PI. II; 0, 8), a tree-shaded square
forming the S.E. prolongation of the Oarrera de San Jer6nimo (p. 65).
It is adorned by a Bronze Statue of Cpvantes, by Antonio Sola (1835).
The reliefs on the pedestal, representing Don Quixote's adventure
to the Prado. MADRID. 8. Route. 69
with the lions, and the Don and Sancho Pansa led by the goddesfl of
F<^ly, are by Jostf Piqnei. — The N.E. corner of the plasa is oc-
cupied by the —
Palaeio del Congreio (PL G, 8; adm., aee p. 61 ^ entr, in the
Galle del Sordo, on the N. side), a handsome strncture by NareUo
Pfueu&l (1843-60), with a portieo of six Corinthian columns. In
the pediment aze the inscription ^OmgrtBo de lo$ Di8putado$\ and
an allegorical group by Poneiano Pomano t representing Spain
embracing the Constitution, surrounded by figures of Strength, the
Fine Arts, Commerce, and others. The two Liom on the steps were
designed by Ponzano and cast from the metal of Morocco cannon
taken at the baUle of Tetuan in 1860.
The interior is interesting, eapecially daring the session of the Cortes.
In tbe SALdN DE SssioNss, lighted from the roof, the seats of the deputies
are arranged in semidrctilar rows facing the chair of the president. The
freseoea on the walls represent the Oath of the Cortes at Cadix in 1812
(by Cdsado) and Maria de Molina introdoeing her son to Ferdinand IV. (by
Oisbert). The eeiling is adorned with tbe portraits of famous legislators
of all times, by JUvtr*. In the middle is an apotheosis of eminent Span«
iards (the Cid, Columbus, Cervantes, etc.), by the same artist Two MarbU
TabkU on the wall behind the presidents seat bear the names of the
Spaniards who fell in the strun^e for political freedom. The ministerial
bench is called £f Borneo A*4l, The deputies speak from their places. —
The most interesting of the other rooms is the SALtfN ds Confxbsnoias,
which contains allegorical scenes, a picture of the Oomuneros by CHtbert^
reliefs of celebrated publicists and orators, and marble busts of UarUntg d%
In Xata, Tonno, ArgUeltet^ and Oldsaga,
We now return to the Prado, the next section of which is named
the Pas^o del Pbado (PI. H, 8, 9). To the right stands the Museo
del Prado (p. 70), to the S. of which are the Plaza de Murlllo and
the Botanic Garden (p. 83). In front of the W. facade of the
museum, amid some beautiful cedars of Lebanon, is a dramatic
*Marble Oroup of Daoiz and Velarde (p. 67), by Jos^ Sola. — A
little farther to the S. are the four unimportant Ikientes Oemilas,
The Calle de Felipe Cuarto, beginning at the Neptune fountain
(p. 68), ascends to the £., past the main entrance of the museum,
to the Galle de Alfonso Doce (p. 84) and the former Jardines Reser-
vados of the Buen Retire (p. 84). To the right, halfway up the
hill , is the BecU Acadimia Espanola (PI. H , 8) , or Academy of
Science, built in 1893. To the S. of this is the Gothic church of
San Jer6nimo el Beal (PI. II; H, 8), built in 1503 and restored
in 1879-82. From 1628 to 1833 this church witnessed the meetings
of the Cortes and the talung of the constitutional oath by the PrCn-
cipe de Aaturias (the heir apparent). — At the upper end of the
street is a Bronze Statue of the Queen- Regent Maria Christina (widow
of Ferdinand VH.; d. 1878), by Mariano Benlliure, erected in 1893.
The building in front of which this statue rises is the Musso db
Rbfboduccionbs Abtisticas (pi. II; H, 8), formerly the CastSn of
the Buen Retire and now containing a collection of casts, photo-
graphs, and other reproductions of ancient and modern works of art.
70 Route 8. MADRID. 6. Muieo
The ceiling of the main hall is decorated with allegorical frescoes
by Luea Oiordano, lepresenting the foundation of the Order of Aie
*Toi86n de Oro*, or Golden Fleece. The entrance is in the Calle de
Alfonso XII (p. 84; adm., see p. 61).
b. The KiiBee del Prado.
The **Mu8eo del Ptado or Museo Nacional de Pintura y Escultura
(PI. H, 8; adm., p. 61) contains not only the famous picture-gallery
of the Spanish kings, but also a collection of sculptures and old draw-
ings. The entrance for the pictures, which are distributed throughout
the three stories of the building, is in the Calle de Felipe Cuarto
(p. 69). The sculptures are on the groundfloor, the drawings on
the third floor. — The building was begun in the reign of Char-
les III. by the celebrated architect Juan de ViUanueva^ and, after
a long interruption caused by the French invasion, was gradually
carried to a conclusion under Ferdinand VII. The first three rooms of
the picture-gallery were opened in 1819. The exterior is by no means
destitute of merit. As, however, the rooms were originally intended
for a collection of natural history, they are not well adapted for their
present purpose. The light is generally insufficient, a defect that is
most sensibly felt in the middle of the long gallery, where many of the
masterpieces are collected. The ^Room of Queen Isabella II.* has
recently been improved ; but the enjoyment of the pictures is sadly
interfered with by the bustle and apparatus of the innumerable copy-
ists. — It may be noticed that, though most of the doors are closed
in winter, they are not locked.
The ♦•Collection of Old Paintings, by far the most important
part of the Museum, consists, according to the latest edition of the
catalogue (p. 73), of about 2000 works. The actual nimiber on exhibi-
tion varies, as paintings are sometimes consigned to the storerooms
and others shown in their place. — Ferdinand VII. combined in one
collection the pictures from all his palaces, except the Escorial. To
this were added in 1840 the pictures of the *Museo Nacional de la
Trinidad', consisting of early Spanish and Flemish paintings removed
from the convents in 1836 et seq. The royal gallery of Spain is one
of the' oldest in Europe. The treasures of the art-loving Charles V.,
most of which were brought to Spain, were rapidly increased by the
kindred taste of Philip II. and Philip IV. Philip V. added a large
number of French pictures of the 17-18th centuries. It is too much
to say that the Madrid Gallery is the best in Europe, but it is prob-
ably entitled to rank along with the Louvre and the galleries of
Dresden and Florence.
The chief treasure of the gallery 'consists naturally enough of
the paintings of the Spanish School in general and of its great
master Diego Velazquez in particular. About sixty genuine works
" this, the greatest colourist of all time, are here united, and among
^ are probably all his most brilliant creations , in spite of the
dHFrado,
MADRID
8. Rtmte. 71
ftet that Abovt half of his
works aieno longer in Spain
but scattered among the
private galleries of England
and elsewhere. Yelazqnez
is here represented at all
ages, from his twentieth year
to his death, and in all his
different phases: — as por-
trait - painter , historical
painter, landscape-painter,
and painter of Biblical,myth-
ological, and genre subjects.
~ The gallery possesses
abont as many pictures by
MurUlo , including fine
works of yarious periods,
but none of his greatest
masterpieces. — £<6ero,
whose works were of so
much importance in forming
the style of the two great
masters Just mentioned, is
represented by numerous
and admirable specimens. In
fact, the Spanish school of
the 16-i8ih cent is repre-
sented by almost all its mas-
ters and generally by ex-
cellent works. The best
paintings of masters of the
second class are, however,
still for the most part to be
seen in the churches.
The collection is also
rich in works of the foreign
schools of both Italy and the
Netherlands. It contains in-
deed only two important
pictures of the Eablt Ital-
lAKS of the I5th cent. : an
altar-piece by i^ Angdieo
and the Death of the Virgin
by Maniegna, The best
period is, howerer, repre-
sented by numerous master-
pieces. Ten pictures are
72 Route e. MADRID. h. Mu^eo
ascribed to Bapiuul, Among these is the ^Spasimo di Sicilia', one
of the most powerfal creations of the painter. The others inolnde
the Madonna with the fish, one of the most beautiful of Baphaers
Madonnas ; a second and smaller Holy Family which shows similar
beauty on a miniature scale ; and a fascinating portrait of a cardi-
nal. — Among the finest of the other paintings of the same period
are a masterpiece of Andrea del Sarto, two paintings by Sebeutiano
del Piombo, and two genuine early works ofCorreggio. — The most
attractive part of the Italian section is that devoted to the Venetian
school. Oiorgione is represented by an admirable work. Titian
contributes nearly forty paintings, including several masterpieces.
To his early period belong the portrait of Alfonso d'£ste, and the
^Bacchanal' and 'Fertility', two allegorical - mythological works
painted for that prince. To his middle and later periods belong the
full-length portraits of Charles V. and Philip II. and the equestrian
portrait of Charles V . , three miracles of portraiture ; the nude figures
of Venus and Danae ; and ibe allegorical works celebrating the
glories of the Church and of Spain. — The later Venetians, from
Paolo Veronese to Tiepolo, are also admirably represented.
The Early Flemish Paimtinos of the collection enjoy a some-
what exaggerated reputation, and the works ascribed to Jan van Eyck
and Memling are not authentic. The museum, however, possesses a
number of interesting and genuine works of Roger van der Weyden,
Petnia Cristus, H, Bosch ^ Mannus^ Patinirj H.deBleSj and P. Brueghel,
The Latb Flemish School is represented by numerous works, some
of which are of great merit. There are more than sixty genuine
specimens oi Rubens, The half-lengths of the Apostles are character-
istic eiiamples of this master's period of study in Italy. The Adora-
tion of the Magi is a magnificent early work, painted after his return
to Antwerp. There are also a number of excellent pictures of his
middle period, but the most important part Of the Rubens collection
consists of the many splendid examples of his later years, during
which he worked mainly for Philip IV. Among the twenty-one pic-
tures by Anthony van Dycky differing widely in motive and in period,
there are a few of his masterpieces, such as the Betrayal of Christ.
The Family Group of Jordaens is surpassed by no other work of that
master. The numerous specimens of David Teniers the Younger are,
however, generally inferior to those in Vienna, St. Petersburg, and
the Louvre. Jan Brueghel, again, can be nowhere studied to so great
advantage both as regards quality and variety. •— The Dutch Sohool
is conspicuous by its almost total absenoe, and the Gbrmak School
is represented by but a few works, though these are good of their kind.
The Frbnoh School of the 17th cent, is represented more
abundantly here than in most of the great collections outside of the
Louvre; NicoUu Pcussin, Claude Lorrain^ and the contemporary
portrait-painters may all be studied here to advantage. Two works
by Waiteau are prominent among the paintings of the 18th century.
dH Prado. MADRID. 8. Eoule. 73
Good CtMhgue (price i p.) "by Pedro d« M»druo. The asme author
is preparing a detailed scientific catalogue, of which only the first volume,
embracing the Spanish and Italian schools, has been published. — The
Director of Oie Museum is the painter Francit<9 J^xtditta^ appointed in 1896.
Passing through the main entrance , we first turn to the rooms
on the Pxinoipal Floor. A broad flight of steps ascends to the
RoTiTKDA (PI. 1), where four large Tempera Paintings of the Early
Spanish School are interesting : Adoration of the Magi (in two sec-
tions) and SS. Peter and Paul. These pictures originally formed the
shutters of the organ in the church of St Thomas at Avila, and
reveal, hy the energy of their conception and their deep and vigorous
colouring , the Master of the Altar of St. Thomas (p. 48). — On
each side of the Rotunda lie five cabinets, those to the right contain-
ing paintings of the Spanish school of the 17th century, those to
the left Italian works of the 16- 18th centuries.
Italian Cabinets. — Entraitcb Cabinet (PI. 2). nBO. Titian,
Venus listening to a young musician; 15. Lneia AngviMola, Portrait
of Piermaria, a physician of Cremona; 269. Qvido Reni, *La Virgen
de la Sllla' (Virgin of the Chair). — We now turn to the right into —
CabihbtS. No. 371. Raphael, Holy Family with the Lizard,
painted by a pupil from the master's design ; ♦370. Raphatl, Ma-
donna dellaRosa, a work of his latest period, cool in colouring^ and
perhaps executed by OhiUo Romano ; 389. Andrta del Sario, Virgin
and Child with St. John; 524. VasaH, Virgin and Child with angels.
Cabinet 4. 'No. 211. Luea Giordano, Allegory of Peace, re-
presenting Rubens painting the enthroned Goddess of Peace. This
work is probably both in composition and in colouring the most at-
tractive of the numerous paintings in the Prado by this quick-work-
ing master, who spent many years at the Spanish court. Below the
painting are several sketches by the same artist. — We now return
and from Cabinet 2 enter —
Cabinet 6, containing a series of large and excellent works by
Giovanni Baitista Tiepolo (*407. Immaculate Conception, notable
for its splendid colouring), and by his nephew Domenico Tiepolo,
Cabinet 6. No. 2123 e. OiuUo Romano, Christ appearing to the
Magdalen ; 2125. Oiov. Franc. PemfU, Copy of Raphael's Transfig-
uration in the Vatican. — We now return to the Rotunda and cross
it to the —
Spanish Cabinets. — Cabinet 7. 749, 750, 751, 763. Juunes,
Scenes from the life of St. Stephen ; 849. Morales, Presentation in
the Temple; Juanes, 757. Martyrdom of St Agnes, 754. Portrait of
Luis de Castelvi; Morales, 847. Ecce Homo, 848. Mater Dolorosa;
Juanes, 756. Visitation, 759. Ecce Homo. — We now pass to the
right into —
Cabinet 8. No. 701. Coello , Virgin enthroned, with saints.
VeUaquez, 'lOSl, 1082. Philip IV. and his second wife, Marianne
of Austria, at their fald-stools (painted in the master's latest per-
iod); ♦1068. Equestrian portrait of the young Prince Don Bal-
74 Route 8, MADBID. b, Muaeo
tasar Carlos, irith. the hills roand the Escorial in the distance
(oa. 1635).
Cabinbt 9. MuriUo, 867. Annnnciation, 855. Rebecea and Elea-
zar. Velazquez, 1078. Full-length portrait of Marianne of Austria,
second wife of Philip IV. (painted in the master's latest period) ;
♦1073. Don Carlos, younger brother of Philip IV. (an early work j
ca. 1626). ♦788. Del Ma&o, View of Saragossa, painted in 1647 after
a riot ; the exquisite little figures of Philip IV.'s courtiers are by
Maze's father-in-law, Velazquez. — Velazquez, ♦1059. Vulcan's forge,
painted at Rome iii 1630. The grouping of the n^odels is somewhat
academic; but the expression of jealousy in Vulcan and the varying
degrees of sympathy in his workmen are portrayed with the touch of
a master. 1083. Prince Don Baltasar Carlos (1642-43). — 629. Jose
AntoUnez, Assumption of the Magdalen. 2150 b, c. Claudio CoeUo,
St. Dominic, St. Rosa. — We now return through Cab. 7 to —
Cabinet 10. No. 947. Franc, BiJbalta, Angel appearing to St.
Francis ; the colouring is brilliant, and the expression of ecstasy on
the ascetic face of the saint is delineated in a masterly manner.
1132. Zurbaran, St. Casilda. Fantoja de la Orm, 923. Maria, wife
of Emp. Maximilian II. j 924. Isabella of Valois, third wife of
Philip II. J 931. Philip II. 1032. Sanchez CoeUo, Don Carlos, son of
Philip II. (the hero of Schiller's tragedy). On a stand, 1056. Velax-
qv£z, Virgin enthroned, a singular creation of his latest period, with
the reddish violet illumination of a stormy sunset.
Cabinet 11. Del Mazo, 789. Don Tiburdo, 790. Portrait of a
woman.
We now return to the Rotunda (PI. 1), whence a staircase (PI. A)
descends to the right to the —
Rooms op Alfonso XII., which contain the Spanish, Flemish,
AND German Pictures of the 15-16th cent, (except several master-
pieces in the Room of Queen Isabella II., p. 77). To the left of the
first landing, 1016. Fr, Rid, Auto de ¥4 in the Plaza Mayor on
30th June, 1680 (comp. p. 102).
The Entrance Room and part of Room II contain the Early
Spanish Works. In order to form a just idea of this school, we
must study not only the works in this collection, but also a few of
the more important paintings in the Archaeological Museum, as
well as the altar-pieces in the churches scattered throughout Spain.
The Museo, however, possesses a considerable number of canvases
that are of real interest in the history of Spanish painting. Among
the most important of these is the fine ♦Series of scenes from the
lives of SS. Peter Martyr, Thomas Aquinas, and Domingo de Guz-
man (2139-2148), erroneously ascribed to Berruguete. They come
from Avila, and are undoubtedly by the same hand as the beauti-
ful retablo in Santo Tomas in that city (p. 48) and the organ-shutters
shown in the Rotunda (p. 73). The colouring, the peculiar character
* the oil-technique, and to some extent the conception also show
del J)ndo. MADRID. 8. Route, 75
tbct the painter of these pletares must have matared in Italy under
the infinence of Melozio and Signorelli. WhooTer he was , he Is
mperior to all the other early masters of Spain in energy and origin-
ality of conception, in boldness of foreshortening, and in yigonr and
brilliancy of colouring. Special notice shonld be taken of Nos. 2141.
St Peter Martyr preaching at Milan, and (Room II) !2143. Death of
St. Peter Martyr, and 2148. Auto de ¥4 of St Domingo de Gnsman,
the earliest representation of this kind. — Another series of pictures
(Nos. 2164-21541), ascribed to Correa^ shows a somewhat later
master under equally strong Italian influence, emanating mainly firom
Peiugino and Albertlnelli. No. 2154a the Death of St Bernard, is
especially remarkable. — Nos. 2155-2160 are by a mediocre artist
painting under Flemish influence, and are wrongly ascribed to Fern.
Gallegos. Nos. 2178-2184 are by a similar master of a somewhat
earlier date.
In the ante-room, on stands: to the right, *1818. Roger van
der Weyden, Descent from the Cross, one of the numerous replicas
of this painting, claiming, along with the picture in the Escorial, to
be the original work of the master (comp. also p. 115). Left, 1291.
PeiruB CrUtuBj Altar-piece with the Annunciation, Visitation, Nativ-
ity, and Adoration of the Magi. — Room II, on stands : left, 1817a.
Roger van der Weyden (?), Marriage of the Virgin. Peculiarities in
tiie colouring, types, and costume make it probable that this work
was painted in Spain by a Flemish master about 1460-70. Right,
*14. Fra Angelieo da Fteiole , Annunciation and Expulsion from
Eden ; in the predella, Marriage of the Virgin, Visitation, Adoration
of the Magi, Presentation in the Temple, Death of the Virgin.
RooH III contains the Eablt Flemish and EanLT Qbrmak
Paintimos. To the left of the entrance : 1221. P. Brueghel the Elder ^
Triumph of Death. On a stand by the second window : 1523. Patinirj
Temptation of St. Antony. — On the wall opposite the windows:
1175. H. Botch, Adoration of the Magi; 1304, 1305. Lueas Cranach
the Younger (not the EUief\ Charles V. hunting at Moritzburg with
the Elector of Saiony (1544) ; 1525. Herri met de Bles (not Paiinir),
St. Francis in the desert; 1423. Mannut, Virgin and Child, in the
style of Quinten Matsys; ♦1314, ♦1315. Albreeht Durer, Adam and
Eve (1607; copies at Florence andMayence). -— 2194. Petrut Oris-
iU9, Virgin and Child in a landscape ; 1860. H, Botch, Operation for
the stone (the artists of these two works described by the catalogue
M unknown); 1519. Patinir, Rest on the Flight into Egypt. — 2189-
2193. School of Roger van der Weyden, Large triptych, from the
Convent of St. Aubert at Cambrai, with the Crucifixion in the middle,
the Fall and the Last Judgment on the wings, and the Tribute Money
on the outside. The effect of this picture is marred by the fact that
the small Biblical scenes in the architectural frame-work are painted
in body colours and not (as is usual) In grisaille. — We now return
to the Rotunda and ascend by the staircase to the left to the —
76 Routes, MADRID. b, Mu9eo
Long Gallbbt (PI. 1!2). The Ante-Boom (PI. 12 a) contains pic-
tures by Ribera (1004, 1005. liion and Prometheus) and by El Oreco
(Dom, Theotocopuli; 2124, 2124c. Gruciflxion and Baptism of
Christ;.
The Long Gallery is divided into two sections, the first (extend-
ing as far as the Room of Isabella n.) containing the Mabtbbpiecbs
OF THS Spanish School, while the second is devoted to Italian
Masterpieces.
We begin our inspection with the left wall. Ribera y *980.
Mary Magdalen in the desert, of rare beauty in expression, clear and
briUiant In colour; 990. Holy Trinity; ♦939. Martyrdom of St. Bar-
tholomew, a work of charming colouring, broad and masterly hand-
ling, and vigorous conception, but unfortunately damaged. —
Velazquez y *1055. Crucifixion (1638), showing a conscious and
most unusual striving after idealism ; 1054. Adoration of the Magi,
his earliest known work (1619); 1085, 1103. Portraits, painted by
the master when about twenty years old ; 1070. Full-length portrait
of the young King Philip IV. (ca. 1627); ♦1095. El Prime, one
of Philip IV .'s dwarfs , with a book on his knees , a masterpiece of
the artist's middle period (1644); 1109, ♦1110. Decoratiye views
of the Fuente de los Trltones and the Calle de la Reina in the
park of Arai\jnez (comp. pp. 97, 125); ♦1090, Count of Benavente,
painted about 1635, and very attractive in conception; ♦1098,
*1099. Two dwarfs of Philip IV., most repulsive little creatures but
wonderful masterpieces of painting (late period). — ♦♦1062. 'Las Me-
ninas' or ^La Familia', representing Velazquez painting Philip IV.
and Queen Marianne, who are seen reflected in a mirror at the back ;
in front is the little Princess Margaret, attended by her master of
ceremonies, dwarfs, and maids of honour ('meniuas'). In power of
characterization, delicate handling of indoor light, perfection of
colouring, and picturesque treatment, this is one of the best works
of the master (latest period ; 1666). — ♦I 107,1106. Views of the Villa
Medici, charming and brilliantly coloured studies, painted by the
master during his first visit to Rome ; ♦1096. Royal dwarf, said to
be Sebastian de Morra; 1102. Mars, the God of War (latest period);
1097. Dwarf (said to be English), with a bull-dog; ^1069. Equestrian
portrait of the Conde Duque de Olivarez, for many years minister
of Philip IV. (ca. 1640); ♦1064, 1065. Equestrian portraits of
Philip III. and his wife, painted with the aid of older portraits in
1644, long after their death. — Right wall, beginning at the bnst of
Murillo: 935. Pareja (the 'slave' and afterwards the pupU of
Velazquez), Calling of St. Matthew, an interesting painting show*
ing the costumes of the period. Velaiquez, ♦1066, ♦1068. Equestrian
portraits of Philip IV. and Isabella of Bourbon, his first wife (1644) ;
1074. PhiUp IV. in hunting costume (ca. 1628); 1088, 1087. Half-
length portraits of the master^s daughters (?), early works; 1071.
'ing Philip IV. (latest period); ♦llOl, ♦llOO. Menlppus and ^sop,
del f^do, MADRID. 8, BouU, 77
two delectable types of Spanish low life (cs. 1650). — *^1060. Sur-
render of Breda, painted in 1647 and widely known under the name
of Xas Lanzas'. In characterization, colouring, and arrangement this
18 one of Telazqnez^s masterpieces, and there is probably nowhere
a nobler example of historical painting. An interesting insight into
the painter's own way of thinking is afforded by the kindly, courte-
ous, and sympathetic manner in which Spiiiola, the Tictor, receiyes
the submission of the unfortunate Justin of Nassau; the official re-
presentation of the same event by Leonardo (No. 767 in the ante-
room 12a) shows that there was no warrant for this conception of
the scene eltber in actual fact or in the wish of the king (Philip IV.)
for whom the picture was painted. • MwiUOy ^881. Graeiflxion of
St. Andrew, a small masterpiece with fine colouring and treatment
of light; 870. *La Viigen del Bosario' (Virgin with the rosary);
882-886. Parable of the Prodigal Son (sketches for the pictures at
Stafford House in London). 865. St. John the Baptist when a
child ; 859. Adoration of the Shepherds, an early work; 880. Immacu-
late Conception ; 868. Vision of St Bernard ; *878. Immaculate Con-
ception, the best example of the master in the gallery; 872. St. Anna
teaching the Virgin; ♦854. Holy Family (*del Pajarito*), an early
masterpiece, showing the influence of Ribera; 857 (?), Repentant
Magdalen ; 877. Immaculate Conception ; 890. St. Francis de Paula.
We now return to the middle of the gallery and enter (left) the
Saloon op Qubsn Isabblla II. (PI. 13), in which, as in the Tribuna
and the Salon Carrtf, BLkSTBRPiscBS oi Etbbt School are collected.
To the right: *236. Titian, Madonna with SS. Ulfns and Bridget,
an early work ; *1092. Velatquety Court Jester, usually known as
the 'Actor*; *i336. Van Dyefe, Betrayal of Christ, a masterpiece of
dignity and lifelike vigour, painted in the early period of the
master, under the influence of Rubens. — *^1058. Velazques, The
'Borrachos', a group of peasants parodying a festival of Bacchus.
This well-known masterpiece of his youth (ca. 1628), though now
somewhat heavy and opaque in colouring, is yet a work of wonderful
vitality, exhibiting a marvellous touch in plastic effect. — *1584.
RubenSy Perseus and Andromeda, finished after the death of Rubens
by JbrrfoCTis; ♦1992. Claude Lorralnj Morning; 850. Morales, Virgin
and Child; 1398. Master of the Death of the Virgin (not Holbein the
Younger), Portrait of a man; 1033. 8anehe% Coello, Dofia Isabel,
daughter of Philip II. ; 1544. Benibrandt, Queen Artemisia, an early
work (1634); Van Dyck, 1330. Portraito of the artist and the Earl
of Bristol, *1320. Portrait of D. Ryckaert, the painter; ♦1611.
Rubens, The Garden of Love, a festival of patrician families of
Antwerp, a work of singular charm, dating from the last period of
the master and well known through an early copy in the Dresden
Gallery (smaller original repUca now owned by Baron Rothschild
of Paris, formerly in the collection of the Duke of Pastrana); 2051.
Nie. Poussin, Hunt of Meleager; 1606. Rubens, Queen Maria de'
78 Route 8, MADRID. h. Museo
Medici; ♦1827. Van Dyeic^ Count Henry of Berg; 1133. Zwharan,
Infant Jesus asleep on the Cross ; 108. Vincenxo Catenaj St. Peter
receiving the keys ; 248. Guercino^ St. Peter freed from prison by
the angel; 411. Jacopo Tintoretto, Sebastiano Veniero, the Venetian
general ; 388. Andrea del SartOy Portrait of his wife Lucrezia del
Fede ; 1385. Jan Qoasaert, Virgin and Child ; 477. Titian, Portrait
of himself at an advanced age; *132. Correggio, Christ and the
Magdalen, an early work in a very attractive landscape; 1120. Zur-
haran\ Vision of San Pedro Nolasco; 1171. Herri met de Bles,
Triptych with the Adoration of the Magi, the Queen of Sheba, and
King Herod; 1086. VeUuqxiet, Half-length portrait of the artistes
wife (daughter of the painter Pacheco). — TiUan, ♦450. Bacchan-
alian Scene, full of sensuous charm, but so damaged in its colour
that it is no longer on a par with its pendant No. 451 (see below) ;
♦465. Venus and Adonis, painted for Philip II. ; ^464. Full-length
portrait of the young Philip II. — 396. Sebastiano del PiombOj Bear-
ing of the Cross; 333. Parmigianino , A lady and her three child-
ren; ♦♦364. Raphael, Holy Family, a small gem, wonderfully minute
and careful in execution and charming in its bright colouring
(dated 1507); ^1316. Durer, Portrait of himself at the age of
twenty-six, a charmingly naive representation of the handsome and
amiable features of the master, with a view of an Alpine landscape
(1497); ♦SGS. Raphael, 'Madonna del Pesce', a work of warm and
vigorous colouring, entirely by the master's own hand and akin in
style to the Sistine Madonna; 1063. Velazqtiez, Mercury and Argus,
a study of Spanish peasants ; ^136. Correggio^ Holy Family, an early
work, painted at Ferrara; 1317. Durer, Portrait, painted in the
Netherlands in 1521. —♦369. Raphael, Holy Family, known as 'La
Perl a', because Philip IV., who bought it from the collection of
Charles, I. of England for 2000^., called it the 'pearl of his Raphaels'.
It was probably executed by pupils from a design or cartoon by
Raphael himself. — 332. Farmigiammo , Portrait of a man, the
companion-piece to No. 333 (see above) ; *463. Titian, Full-length
portrait of £mp. Charles V., painted at Augsburg in 1532.
♦♦451. Titian, 'La Fecundidad', or Worship of the Goddess of
Fertility. Like No. 450 (see above) this is one of the celebrated
series painted about 1520 for Alfonso I. of Ferrara. The picture
Is glowing Mrith colour, and never were children painted at once so
charming and so naive, so varied and so beautiful, as those rosy
and frolicsome putti.
626. Paolo Veronese, Venus and Adonis; 1076. Velatquje%,
Don Fernando, brother of Philip IV., in hunting dress (ca. 1628) ;
295. Andrea Mantegna, Death of the Virgin, with view of Mantua ;
♦367. Raphael, Portrait of a cardinal, finely individualized and
very delicate in colouring; ^1410. Jordaens, Family Group, an
attractive and finely painted masterpiece; 533. Paolo Veronese,
"binding of Moses; ♦341. Oiorgione (not Pordenone), Virgin and
delPirado. MADRID. 8. RouU, 79
Child with SS. Roehos and Antony of Padaa, an Interetting though
unfinished work of the great folourist, closely resembling his master*
piece atCastelfranco; 862. MuriUo, Virgin and Child; 1322. Van
Dyek, Countess of Oxford; *1091. Velasquet, Martfnez Montailtfs,
the sculptor, full of expression and remarkable for the lucid tone
of the light^green colouring; 982. Biberay Jacob's Dream; **106i.
Vdatqut%y *La8 Hilanderas', or tapestry-veavers of Madrid, a cel-
ebrated and finely coloured masterpiece of his third period; 1407.
Jord(iai$^ Atalanta and Meleager; 879. MuHUoy Immaculate Con-
ception; *1484. Sir A. More, Queen Mary of England, wife of
Philip IL, one of the painter's maaterpieces. — *987. Atiera, St.
Peter delivered from prison by the angel; 866. MurillOy Youthful
Saviour and John the Raptist, usually known as ^Los Nifios de la
Concha* ('the children of the sheir). -^ 1084. yaaaqu£%, JnfanU
Delia Maria Teresa, daughter of Philip lY.; 1352, 1363. In the
style of Roger van der Weyden, Meister Heinrich of Werlis in a
room with the Virgin and St. John ; 1989. Claude Lorrain, Moun-
tainous landscape; *1057. VeUuque%y SS. Paul and Antony, the
hermits, with a fascinating and splendidly handled landscape (third
period; 1669); 288. Lorenso XoMo, The betrothal ; ibQ6. Bubena,
St. G-eorge and the Dragon, a somewhat baroque composition (ca.
1609); 60. Owvanni BellitU, Madonna and saints; 1361a. Hubert
van Eyek (?), Christ, the Virgin, and John the Baptist (half-figures) ;
690. Juan de Carreno, Count Potemkin, Russian ambassador to
Spain. — In the middle of the room is a fine table inlaid with Flor-
entine mosaics, presented (along with others) to Philip II. by
Pope Pius V. after the battle of Lepanto.
We now return to the Long Gallx&t (PI. 12) to yiew the S.
end of it, containing Italian Wobks op the 16-17th Cbntubies. In
the middle of the gallery stands a mosaic table resembling that just
mentioned; and near it are two show-cases containing objects in cut
crystal , precious stones , and metal, few of high value. -— Left
Wall: TiUan, 470. King Philip II. dedicating his infant son to
Victory after the battle of Lepanto, a somewhat unsuccessful allegory,
painted by the master in his 9l8t year, but still showing some fine
colouring; 459. Venus listening to a young musician, probably a
replica by the master himself of No. 460 (p. 78), formerly in the
collection of Charles I. of England ; *476. Allegorical represent-
ation of Spain as the shelter of the Roman Catholic Church, very
attractive in colouring; ♦471. The Marquis del Vast© addressing
Ms troops, vigorously coloured (ca. 1540) ; ♦466. Adam and Eve,
of glowing colour (ca. 1640) ; 485. Isabella of Portugal, wife of
Charles V. ; ^457. Portrait of Charles V., a masterpiece of colouring,
representing the emperor as the victor of Mtihlberg, mounted on a
black horse and clad in full armour; ^462. Alfonso I., Duke of
Ferrara, a carefully executed masterpiece of portraiture (ca. 1516);
469. St. Margaret overcoming the Dragon with the Cross. — 630.
80 RouU 8. MADRID. b. Mtaeo
Paolo Veronesey Martyrdom of St. Genesius, an effective composition
with strong and glowing colouring ; 396. 8eb. del Piombo, Ohrist in
Hades, a studio-piece, of the artist's Roman period. — 488. Titian,
Bearing of the Gross, a late work, finished hy Jacopo Bassano ; 415.
Jae, TintorettOj Moses and the Women of Midian (Numbers, chap,
xxxi). Titian, 468. Danae, a replica of the picture at Naples,
painted for Philip II. by the artist himself; 472. Rest on the Flight
into Egypt, with a beautiful landscape (late work, unftnished). —
P. Veronesey ♦538. The Path of Virtue, a charming aUegory; 527.
Ohrist disputing with the Doctors, a large, original, beautifully
coloured, and very effective composition (the figure of the founder
perhaps the most attractive in the assemblage). — Right Wall:
*528. Paolo Veronese, Jesus and the Centurion of Capernaum, a
work of considerable size and beautiful colouring. Titian, 489.
Half**figure of Christ, a relic of a masterpiece ('Noli me tangere')
of his middle period, damaged by fire (old copy in the Escorial);
475. Mater Dolorosa, of his middle period^ 467, 468. £cce Homo,
Mater Dolorosa, both painted for Charles V.; 490. Betrayal of
Christ (latest period). — 260. Otddo Beni, St. Sebastian. — Tin-*
toretio, 410. Naval battle, highly picturesque and original in effect;
428. Last Judgment, a small replica of the mammoth work in the
Doge's Palace ; 436. Judith and Holofemes. — 478. Lor. Lotto (not
Titian), St. Jerome (damaged); 342. Bernardino Licinio da Por-
d€none, Portrait. — ♦462. Titian, Apotheosis of Charles V., known
as 'La Gloria', painted for Charles Y. in 1550. The emperor and
his wife, along with his son PhUip and his wife, are represented
among the souls of the saved. The work has a strong picturesque
charm and is very painstaking in execution ; the drawing is strongly
influenced by Michael Angelo. — 385. Andrea del 8arto, Virgin and
Child. — Raphael, ♦♦366. Bearing of the Cross, known as the 'Spa-
simo de Sicilia' (Spanish 'El Pasmo de Sicilia'), a masterpiece of
composition, expression, and individuality, originally executed
(partly by pupils) for a church at Palermo; 368. Visitation, an un-
satisfactory composition, executed by pupils.
We now return to the end of the Long Gallery and enter the
Fbbnch Room (PI. 14), the most notable contents of which are a
series of works by Nicolas Poussin (some of them very fine), a round
dozen by Claude Lorraiu (mostly unimportant), and two charming
specimens of Watteau. Nicolas Pottssin: to the left, 2041. David
victorious over Goliath ; 2043. Parnassus ; 2042. Bacchanalian scene ;
2050. Wooded landscape. — Claude Lorrain: to the left, 1986.
Finding of Moses; to the right, .1987. Sunrise at Ostia. — A. Wat-
temi: to the left, 2083. Al fresco ball; to the right, 2084. Fete
Champ^tre in the gardens of St. Cloud.
To the right and left of the French Room, opening off narrow
stridors, are the Cabinets of the Flbmish and Dutch Mastsrs.
e first enter those to the W. (right).
del Prado. MADRID. 8, R(nUe. 81
Cabikbt 21. No. 1609. Rubenty Sir Thomas More, after an old
master (perhaps Holbein); 1485. Sir A, More, Queen Catharine of
Portugal ; 1406. JordaenM^ Marriage of >t. Catharine. — RubeM^ ♦1661.
Holy Family, a work of hia last period, acquired from hit heirs ;
1686. Ceres and Pomona. — We now turn to the left and enter —
CABnniT22. JonFyt, 1370. Still-life; 1372. Ducks and eagle.
— 1278, 1277. J.BrueghH, Rustic weddings ; 1833. Fh, Wouvtr-
man. Sportsmen resting; *1441. Mettu^ Dead cock; 1666. BubenSj
Rudolf of Hapsburg helping a priest across a river (unfinished).
Cabinbt 23. Rubena, **1668. The Brazen Serpent, one of the
greatest works of the master in the expression of religious enthusiasm,
strength and depth of tone, and delicacy of chiaroscuro (painted
about 1626-30); 1660. Holy Family; ♦1587. Vintage Scene with
nymphs and satyrs, a charming fancy in his latest manner ; 1612.
Peasants dancing; 1610. Portrait; ♦1669. Adoration of the Magi,
painted in 1609, on his return from Italy. — 1391, 1392. J. D. de
Heem, StllMlfe. On the window-wall: •1614. Ruberu, Rape of
Europa, a copy of Titlan*8 painting in the collection of Lord Darnley
(formerly in Madrid). — We now return through Cab. 21 to —
Cabinet 24. Nos. 1489, 1490, 1491. Sir A. More, Portraits;
1502, 1604. P. NeelfBj Church-interiors; ♦1719. Tenters the Younger,
Archduke Leopold at a rustic festival (1647); 1218, 1219. A.Brouwer^
Tavern-scenes; 1731. Teniers, Kitchen (1643); 1834. P^. Wouvtr-
mem. Stable. — Teniers, 1729. The smokers (under the Influence of
Brouwer; 1639); 1756, 1764. Temptation of St. Antony. On the
window-wall: 1663. Rubens, Pieti.
Cabinet 25. Van Dyck, ♦1328. Portrait of an Italian musician ;
1324. Princess Amelia of Solms. — 1831, 1830. PK Wouverman,
Hunting-scenes; 1686. Rubens, Diana and her nymphs surprized by
satyrs ; 1258. J. Brueffhel, Flowers. — Van Dyck, 1323. Prince Henry
of Nassau; 1321. Cardinal Infante Don Ferdiriand (1634); 1319.
Mocking of Christ. — 1836. Wouvermany Halt of hunters.
We now return through the narrow passage to the right to the —
PoBTKAiT RooH (Pi. 20), wMch contains early portraits of the
Bourbon family by Raphtul Mengs, Van Loo (Philip Y. and his
family) , and others , and an allegorical picture (no number) by
Corrado OiaquSnto(Jii9tiQe and Peace conquering Discord). — Thence
we proceed to the cabinets to the E. of the French Boom.
Cabinet 15. Sir A, More, 1487, 1486. Emperor Maximilian II.
and his wife; to the left, 1493. Two ladies. — 1279. Jan Brueghel,
Flemish fair. On the window-wall (very badly lighted): ♦♦1590.
^u^iNW, Judgment of Paris, a brilliant example of the artist's masterly
treatment of the nude, painted with the most minute care for Philip IV.
We then turn to the right into —
Cabinbt 16. 1488. Sir A. More, Princess Johanna of Austria,
daughter of Charles V. ; 1594. Rubens, Mercury and Argns ; 1535.
F, Pourbus the Younger ^ Anna of Austria, wife of Louis XIII.
Basdskbs's Spain. 6
82 Route 8. MADRID. 5. Mmeo
Cabinet 17. Bubens, *1592. Diana and Oallisto, a masterpiece
(damaged); •1683. Galydonian Hunt, with a splendid wooded land-
scape; ♦1591. The Graces, an admlrahle work in his latest manner ;
1613. Adam and Eve, a copy of the picture hy Titian mentioned at
p. 79; *1608. Equestrian portrait of the Cardinal Infante Don
Ferdinand at the battle of Nordlingen. We now return to —
Cabinet 18. N. Wall: 1747. Tenters, Archduke Leopold Wil-
liam, Stadtholder of the Netherlands, in his picture-gallery at
Brussels, of which Teniers was the keeper. Window-wall: 1264,
1265. J, Bmeghd, Views of a Flemish park of the Infanta Isabella.
Cabinet 19. J. Brueghel, 1280. Large Flemish landscape with
cattle; 1228-1232. The Senses, five small and minutely executed
landscapes and interiors, with accessories by BvJbens (1617).
From the corridor in front of these cabinets the staircase ascends
to the Collection of Old Drawings. With the exception of a few
genuine works by Alonso Cano, these are of little importance; there
are no authentic specimens of either Velazquez or Murillo. — In the
second room, to the left, is a fine modem Roman mosaic after a
painting by Murillo.
We now return to the staircase and descend to the Ground Floor,
where, to the right, are four rooms containing a Collection of Paint-
ings by Francisco Ooya (p. Ixxxiii), placed here in 1896. Rooms I
and II (to the right) : Decorative paintings of scenes from Spanish
life, originally intended to serve as models for tapestry ; also pen-
and-ink and crayon drawings of similar themes. — Rooms III and
IV (to the left) : Portraits of King Charles IV. and his wife Maria
Louisa; Popular Festival on the Pradera de San Bidro (p. 59);
2061. Portrait of Franc. Bayeu, the painter; 2165. Crucifixion;
736. Charles IV. with his family. Nos. ♦734. (Execution of Spanish
citizens) and *735. (Combat with French Mamelukes) , two large
paintings of scenes firom the rising against the French in May,
1808, are specially notable for their yiyid realism and vigorous con-
ception.
On leaving these rooms, we turn to the right and enter the
Sculpture G-allery, which , though much less important than the
Picture Gallery , should not be neglected. It contains some good
Renaissance works and a number of antiques, several of which are
of the first rank. There is no catalogue.
Rotunda. Group of Wrestlers, in porphyry, of unknown origin.
— The Passage to Room I contains a bronze copy of the Borghese
Hermaphrodite (now in the Louvre), brought from Rome in 1650 by
Velazquez, along with the Thorn Extractor, the Venus, and other
bronzes in the second and third rooms.
Room I, a long gallery containing the Renaissance Sculptures.
By the entrance are marble medallions of Charles V. and his wife Isa-
bella of Portugal, in richly carved frames. In the middle of the room
delBrado. MADRID. 8, RouU. 83
ftTe some fine works by Pompto Leonij including a bronze bust of
Charles T., bronze statues of Philip U. and Isabella of Portugal,
and a bronze 'Group representing Oharles V. conquering Tunis, or
the trinmph of Tirtue oyer Rage (below the loosely worn armour is
visible the finely executed nude body). Adjacent is an alabaster bust
of Philip II. — By the side-wall are marble statues of Charles Y.
and Isabella of Portugal, a bronze statue of Queen Maria of Austria,
by Pompeo Leaniy and a marble buat of Princess Leonora, sister of
Charles V. and wife of Francis I. of France.
RooH 11: Antique Sculptures. In the middle: Thorn Extractor^
in bronze (original in the Oapitoline Museum; see p. 82); Sleeping
Ariadne (marble) ; Seated Nymph , with shell (bronze) ; Circular Altar.
— By the walls are numerous BusU of Roman Emperoft. At the
exit are two Roman Suits of Armour in alabaster and gilded bronze.
— We now pass through a Rotunda, the rooms adjoining which con-
tain some ancient V<we«, and pass to the right into the —
Sala Otalada, below the Sal6n de Isabel Segunda (p. 77),
which contains the continuation of the oollection of antiques. Ad-
joining the door, two good Reliefs, with boars. To the right : Statue of
Mnemosyne, once belonging, together with the other statues of
Muses (one of them modem), to Queen Christina of Sweden ; Oany^
mede and the eagle; Cowering Venus ; Satyr resting, after Praxiteles ;
so-called * Group of San Ildefonso (Orestes and Pylades? Sleep and
Death?), from the collection of Queen Christina of Sweden ; statuette
of hUnervOy a reduced copy of the Athena Parthenos of Phidias ;
double-henna of a youth and a woman (perhaps Sappho?); four
reliefs of Dancing Bacchantes; * Statue of Hypnos^ the God of Sleep,
copy of a Greek work of the 4th cent. B. 0. ; statue of an Athlete^
a replica of the so-called Diadnmenos of Polycletus (right arm
wrongly restored); bust of Antinous; *Torso of Vcnua, in the atti-
tude of the Venus of Milo; double-herma of two bearded Qretks
(Thales and Bias? Epicurus and Metrodorus?); Bust of CiserOj a
modem copy of the celebrated Mattel bust, now belonging to the
Dnke of Wellington, upon an antique pedestal (inscription : M. Cicero
an. Lxnn).
Another room contained the modern sculptures, which hare
lately been transferred to the National Museum "(p. 90).
The Plaza db Mubillo (PI. n ; H, 8), on the S. side of the Prado
Museum, is embellished with pleasure-grounds and a bronze Status
ofMuriOo by S. Medina (1871), a replica of that in Seville (p. 414).
The Botanie Garden (PI. H, 9; adm., see p. 61; main en-
trance in the Plaza de Murillo), founded in 1774, contains a number
of beantifol trees and shrubs ; but, owing to the severity of the
Madrid climate, it cannot compare with the Jardln Botanico of Va-
lencia, the gardens of Seville, or the botanical gardens of Portugal.
By the entrance are some fine BobinisB; farther on are shady avenue
6*
84 Route 8, MA.DRID. c. Buen Betiro.
of elms, intermingled with trees of all zones. Many of the trees
are covered with Ivy from top to bottom. The hot-houses (estufas)
lie on the N. and E. sides of the garden. The long avenne, begin-
ning to the left of the entrance and intersecting the garden from N.
to S., is adorned with statues of QtuTj Clemente^ Liigcuca, and
Cavanille6y four eminent Spanish botanists.
On the S. the Paseo del Prado (p. 69) ends at the large open
space in front of the Estacidn del Mediodfa (p. 107).
c. Buen Betiro Park. East Quarters of the City.
On the hill to the £. of the long Galle de Alfonso Doce, which
reaches from the Paseo de Atocha (p. 107) on the S. to the Plaza de
la Independencia (p. 86) on the N.. lies the —
*Buen Betiro ('pleasant retreat), now (since 1869) named the
Parque de Madrid (PI. I, K, 7, 8, 9), a pleasure-ground 260 acres in
extent, with shady walks and alleys, carriage-drives, riding-paths,
ponds, fountains, and statuary. There are four main entrances. That
opposite the Museo de Reproducciones (p. 69) leads to the former
Jardinea Beservados, a fine parterre with a Monument to Benavente
(d. 1885), a celebrated children's physician. The Paseo de laa Eetd-
ttuu (PI. II ; I, 7, 8), with its twelve statues of Spanish monarchs
(p. 96), and the wide Main Avenue^ beginning at the Plaza de la
Independencia (p. 85; PI. H, I, 7), lead direct to the Estanque
Grande (see below). Carriages enter from the Calle de Ylcalvaro
(PLUjK, 6, 7).
The centre of the park is occupied by the Estanque Qrande (PI. I ;
7, 8), a small artificial lake, surrounded by four water-wheels
(n6rias) and used for boating and skating. At the N. end is a Caf£
Beatawrant, The best of the numerous fountains are the Fujente de
los Oaldpagos (tortoises'), the Fuente de la Alcachofa (^artichoke'),
and the Fuente del Angel Cafdo, with a statne of the ^Fallen AngeV,
by Ricardo Bellver.
To the S.E. of the Estanque Grande, in an enclosed part of the
park, is the Musbo y Bibliotboa db Ultaamar (PI. I, K, 8; adm.,
see p. 61), a collection of objects from the Philippine Islands and
other Spanish colonies. Connected with it is a small library. A
little to the S. is the Palacio del Oristdl, used for exhibitions. — On
the E. edge of the park is the Casa de Fieras^ with a small Zoological
Oarden (adm. 50 c). — The broad Paseo de Feman Nune% (PI. II ;
K, 8) is the scene of the afternoon corso of the Madrid aristocracy
(6-7; in winter 3-5; comp. p. 60). — At the N.E. corner of the
park is the MontSna Bu^a^ an artificial hill with a belvedere (not
accessible at present). To the S. of this are the remains of the
CapiUa de San Itidro^ a Romanesque structure of the 14th cent.,
brought from Avila and re-erected here in 1896.
Like all the similar creations of the 17th ceut., the Buen Retiro
is by no means without its history ; indeed its name is more than
Eak Quartert, MADRID. S, Routt, 85
commonly involved irith great political events. Philip II. built a
cooiitry-hoase for his English queen in the style of a Norman castle.
This stood beyond the convent of San Jer6uimo and was after-
wards (1631) rebuilt by the Gonde-Duque de Olivares, the favourite
of Philip IV., who laid out around it the gardens of Bueu Betlro.
Lope de Vega supplied a poem to celebrate the opening of the new
villa. The so-called Old Palace (now the Artillery Museum ; p. 68), •
the Casdfi beyond it, and the Estanqut were later creations. In the
Palace of Buen Retiro lived Philip IV PhUlp V., Ferdinand IV.,
and Charles IH. (till 1764; comp. p. 96). It was the scene of in-
numerable extravagant festivals, which swallowed millions of money
and gave rise to many biting pasquinas and eopUu :
*^Bvenos €$ldn l<u fardles. Fine are the lights,
La pkuMela y plateado} The square and the silver^
Medio millcn se ha gaiAado Half-a-million has been squandered
Solamenle en earaedlet'. On the shell-works alone.
Again, in a bitterer vein :
*^£ey inocenie, A simple king,
Beina Uraidora^ A treacherous queen,
ISid>lo eeharde^ A cowardly people,
Grandes tin hc»ra\ Grandees without honour.
The French selected the Buen Retiro for part of their fortifica-
tions at the beginning of the present century. These were, however,
removed by the victorious British, who also destroyed the famous
Casa de la China, or porcelain factory, the beautiful products of
which are still found scattered among the Spanish museums. Fer-
dinand VII. restored the Buen Retiro.
To the K.W. of the Buen Retiro lies the circular Flaia de la
Independinoia (PI. H, I, 7), which is surrounded by handsome
private residences. In the middle stands the old Puerta de Alcalde
a triumphal gateway erected in 1778 by Sabatini, the Italian ar-
chitect of Charles III. The gate was much damaged by the French
bombardment of the Retiro on Dec. 3rd, 1808, and still bears the
marks of the cannon-balls on its outer face. — Four important
streets diverge from this plaza: the Calle de Alcald to the £. and
W.; the CaUe de Ol6taga to the N.W.; the Calle de Serrano to the
N., leading to the new quarters of the city and to the National Mu-
seum (p. 86); and the CaUe de Alfonso Doce (p. 84) to the S. To
the S.E. is the main entrance to the Buen Retiro (p. 84).
In the Calle de la Relna Mercedes, a little to the W. of the Plaza
de la Independencia, is the Musso db Inoekibros (PI, II, H7j
adm., see p. 61), occupying a suite of rooms in the old Palacio de
San Juan. The collections include models of fortifications, trenches,
and military bridges, samples of materials, camp utensils, and mil-
itary tools of all kinds.
The Calle db AlcalI (PI. I, K 6 ; tramway-line Ilia, p. 66),
skirting the N. side of the Buen Retiro Park, leads past the Statue
of EsparterOj Duque de la Victoria (PI. II ; I, 6, 7), the Spanish
88 Route 8. MADRID. d. National
cotta sculptures from CaM, in Italy, probably votive objects; Roman
lamps, etc. — Room VII, Large amphoras and other clay vessels,
including some specimens of the so-called red 'Sagunto Ware'; col-
lection of ancient glass. — We now pass the central court and enter
the —
South Wing, which contains the Early Christian, Moorish^ and
other Mediaeval Objects and the Modern Collections. — Room I. Yis-
igothic architectural fragments and inscriptions ; fine Romanesque
capitals ; Romanesque font (pila hautismal) from San Pedro de Villa-
nueva (11th cent.); early- Christian and mediseval inscriptions and
sculptures. — Room II. Early-Christian sarcophagi ; mediaeval and
modern tombstones and other sculptures, including the kneeling
figure of Peter the Cruel (p. 395) from his tomb in Santo Domingo el
Real, in Madrid, and the monument of Aldonca de Mendoza (1435).
On the walls are locks and keys, door-knockers (aldab6nes), door
plates, and nail-heads. — We descend to the South Goubt, contain-
ing Moorish monuments and Christian works in theMud^jar style
(p. liv). By the walls are reproductions of Moorish buildings in
Seville, Cordova, and Granada, two gates firom the Aljaferia in Sara-
gossa, a fragment from the throne-room of the Aljaferfa, a gate from
Leon, a wooden gate from Daroca (14th cent.), and a cast of the door
of the old Capilla del Sagrario in the Cathedral of Seville. Among
the smaller objects are two Arab astrolabes, one of which is the oldest
extant (1067); a Moorish sword; the keys of Oran; an ivory casket
of the 11th cent. ; Moorish embroidery, terracotta vessels, fountain
basins, tombstones, and inscriptions ; Moorish* Hanging Lamp, once
belonging, according to the inscription, to a mosque built at Granada
by Mohammed III. (1305) ; cloak of the Infante Philip, son of Fer-
dinand the Saint (13th cent.) ; large *yase, resembling the celebrated
vase of the Alhambra (p. 362); basin for religious ablutions from
Medtnat az-Zahra (p. 318), dating from 988 ; collection of *azule^
Jos', or glazed tiles. The cases contain a fine collection of majolica
dishes. In the middle of the court are a reproduction of the Fountain
of the Lions at the Alhambra; two fountains from Cordova; models
of the leaning tower (Torre Nueva; removed) at Saragossa and the
Puerta del Sol at Toledo. — Room III. Choir Stalls from the Convent
of Paular (p. 122), near Segovia; forged iron gate from Santa Maria
in Madrid ; vestments, rotables, processional crosses, and other ob-
jects of ecclesiastical art. By the walls are several carved chests (ar-
cones) of the 15th century. — Room IV (left). Astrolabe of Philip II.
(1566); terracotta altar with coloured relief of the Assumption, in
the style of the Delia Robbia (16th cent.) ; altar with 16 scenes from
the Passion, enamelled on copper (15th cent.) ; majolica dish from
Urbino (16th cent.); crucifix of ivory, inscribed 'FerdinanduB Rex
Sancia Regina' (11th cent.); finely carved coffers (16-17th cent.);
model of the Escorial ; * Litter of the 18th century. The cases
contain works in ivory, bronze, and other materials, crucifixes,
Mmeum, MADRID. 8. RouU. 89
reliquaries, and eeclesiaatical yessels of various kinds. — Room V.
The cases contain Spanish porcelain from the old factory at Buen
Retiro and from the Moncloa (with interesting Spanish costumes of
the 18th cent.) ; Sevres and Dresden ohina ; Wedgwood ware ; glass
vessels from the factory in San Ildefonso (LaGranja); bronze sculp-
tures. On the walls hangs fine *Tapestry of the 17th cent., with ani-
mals and plants in Mgh-relief. — Room YI. Collection of Spanish
oostames of the 18th and the beginning of the 19th century. — We
now ascend the staircase to the —
FibstFlooh, which contains the *£t/ino^apMea2 Section of the
Museum. We first turn to the left and enter the Nobth Wing. —
Room I. Reproductions of Mexican sculptures and of the Maya sculp-
tures in Yucatan and Guatemala (originals in Mexico and Berlin).
Among these attention may be specially directed to the large (so-
called) 'Aztec Calendar Stone' (end-wall to the left) and the stone
tables from Santa Lucia in Guatemala (exit- wall). — Room 11. Anti-
quities of the Tainos , an extinct race that inhabited the Antilles,
including some curious stone rings, shaped like horse-collars and of
unknown use^ domestic utensils, pieces of cloth, flint tools, and
other objects found in Peruvian tombs ; antiquities from Quito, Co-
lumbia , Nicaragua , and Mexico. In the middle of the room is a
reproduction of the so-called 'Aztec Sacrificial Stone\ a votive mon-
ument celebrating the victories of the Mexican chief Tizoc. —
Room III. Clay vessels and woven garments from Peru. — Room IV.
By the walls : Peruvian sceptre and other articles in gold ; Peruvian
articles in copper and bronze; Peruvian idols of silver and bronze;
on the N. wall, two ancient Mexican feather-shields. In the middle
of the room are two celebrated ♦Maya MSS. (Codice Troano, Codice
Cortesiano), with a facsimile of a third at Dresden, and also the
Tesoro de las Quimbayas, or gold objects found in Columbia andpre-
sented to Spain in 1892 (idols, vessels, decorated pins and but-
tons, etc.). — Room V. Objects from South America (Patagonia, Peru,
Ecuador) and North America, including a mask-costume of the Naf\i-
gos, a negro sect in Cuba; specimens of the industrial products of the
modern Indians of Central and .South America. In the middle of
the room is a collection of figures of Mexican types of the 18th cent. ;
old paintings of scenes illustrating the story of the discovery of
America ; sand-mosaics from North America, with symbolic represent-
ations of religious ceremonies. — We now return to the entrance
room and proceed, past Room VI (modem terracotta vessels from
Peru) and the Library, to the —
S. WiKG. — Room VII. Turkish, Persian, and Indian works of
art; Chinese statues. In the middle is a head of Buddha, from the
temple of Boro-Budor in Java. — Room VIII. Chinese objects in
porcelain, bronze, jade, and ivory; Chinese festal garments; a few
Japanese objects. — Room IX. By the walls are exhibits from the
Philippine Islands (figures of the 18th cent.) and the Malay Archi-
90 Routes, MADRID. d. Nationallibrary.
pelago (armour). In the middle of the room are *Feather Cloaks and
Helmets from the Sandwich Islands. — Room X. Collection of Oems
(piedras Idbradas y camafeot). Among' the finest Is a black ♦Onyx
(dniee negrojj with the portrait of a woman ; a cameo (white opal and
blue chalcedony) with the portrait of a Roman lady; and a head of
Medusa in milky opal on blue agate. — Room XI (last). Coins and
Medals, Among the former are a gold coin of Arsinoe and Berenice ;
a silver coin of Annia Faustina; some Carthaginian drachmae, half-
drachmae, and double drachmae, with heads ofHercules and elephants;
a gold ten-doubloon piece of Pedro I. of Castile, 2^2 in. in diameter
and over IY2 oz. in weight. Among the medals are a bronze medal by
Pompeo Leoni with a portrait of Liebana, secretary of Philip 11. (dia-
meter 2^/4 in.), and a silver medal of Alfonso V. of Aragon (1448).
The W. part of the building contains the *Biblioteca Kacional
(PI. H, 6; adm., see p. 61 ; entr. in thePaseo deRecoletos), which
was founded in 1711 by Philip V., and increased in 1886 by the
purchase of the Duke of Ossuna's valuable collection of MSS. It
now occupies 35 rooms and contains about a million printed volumes
(including about 2000 incunabula and 800 editions of *Don Quixote'),
besides numerous old MSS. and documents, maps, autographs, and
the like. Most of the books are stored in a separate building of stone
and iron, seven stories high. The general reading-room accommo-
dates 320 readers, while there is another with desks for 12 specialists.
The most valuable posaessions are exhibited in ahow-caaea. The col-
lection of AcTOGBAPHS includes thoae of Lope de Yega^ Calderon, Tirto de
MolifMy Bojas, and the most prominent Spaniah contemporaries of the
'Catholic Kings'. — Among the MSS. are the Codex Toletanm^ or Bible
presented to the church of Seville by Bishop John of Cordova in 988;
a Mozarahic Bible^ from Toledo; the Fuero of Zamora (1208); the finely
illuminated Visigothic Fwro Juzgo^ from San Isidro in Leon (iOth cent.);
the Poema de los Reyes Magoe and Poema de Alexandre (13th cent.); the
Bible of Avila (13-14th cent.), with wonderful miniatures ; the Siete Partidat
of Alfonso el JSabio, from the treasures of Ferdinand and Isabella; the
Poems of Juan Bmt^ ^Areipreste de Hita^ (14th cent.); the Ch'otUca Troy ana
(16th cent.) ; the Libro de Agrictdtura (16th cent.) ; the Traetado de Astrologia
by Enrique de Aragon (1428) ; Petrus Comestor's Sittoria Seolastica (15th cent.) ;
Cronica de Espafks^ by Juan Fernandez Heredia (1385); Qeneahgias de los
Reyes de EspcOkt^ by Aionso de Cartagenq (16th cent.) ; La Cronica Porluguesa
de Don Juan /., by Femdn Lopez (15th cent.)i with beautiful miniatures ;
PetrarehU Sonette^ Canzoniere^ e Trionfi (15th cent.) and TrUmfi (IGth cent.),
both with fine miniatures; Missal of Card. Ximenet (1503-18); drawings for
the Triumph of Emp. Maximilian.
In the SsGOidN ds BsvfsTAS (open 10-4) about 80 Spanish and foreign
periodicals are laid out for the use of visitors. .
The Archive HiBtorico Kacional, on the first floor of the N,
part of the Palaoio de la Biblioteoa y Museos Nacionales (PI. H, 6 ;
entrance from the Paseo de RecoWtos), contains about 200,000 doc-
uments from Poblet (p. 238), Sahagun, and other suppressed mon-
asteries, numerous MSS. from the Cathedral of Avila (among them the
Codex of Justinian in a Castilian translation of the 13th cent.), eto.
The Mnseo de Arte Modemo, on the first floor of the S. part of
Mod. Art Jftweum. MADRID. 8. Route. 91
the Palaoio de la Biblioteea y Mnseos. Naoionales (PI. fl, 6; also
entered from the Paaeo de RecoUtos), is dedicated to modern Spanish
painting and soulpture. At the end of 1897 the arrangement of the
collection was not yet finished and the {following details are' there-
fore liable to change.
PAiirnNOs. — Room I. F, Madrasoi General San Miguel;
Vicente Lope%, M. Lopez, the painter's father, organist to the court ;
M, Caatdlanoj Court of the old Plaza de Toros of Madrid, with the
portraits of the celebrated toreros Montez and Ctichares, interesting
on aoeonnt of the costumes. — Room II. Agtasotj Sleeping shep-
herdess, Roman Ciociara; Mereadi^ Death of St. Francis; For-
tuny, Battle of Tetuan (sketch for the painting in Barcelona, p. 207) ;
*ForUtny, The Queen-Regent Maria Christina and her daughter (Isa-
bella II.) inspiring the government troops to hold out against the
Gariists, who had already advanced as far as Yallecas, 4 M. from
Madrid (1837); *F, FradUla, Johanna the Insane at the coffin of
her husband, Philip the Handsome ; F. Domingo j Duel ; £. Ro9aleaj
Isabella the Catholic dictating her will, Death of Lucretla ; *A. Oia-
bertj Execution of General Torrijos and his companions (Malaga,
1831) ; V. Caaadoj The Bell of Huesca (p. 179). — Room III (foreign
artists). F, Lenbachy Infanta Paz (Princess Louis Ferdinand of Ba-
varia) ^ Rosa Bonheur^ Lions fighting; *Alma Tadema^ Scene in
Pompeii. — Room IV. *E, Bala, The Grand Inquisitor Torquemada
induces the ^Catholic Kings' to refuse a present offered by Jewish
delegates (expulsion of the Jews from Spain, 1492); *8. Viniegra,
Benediction of the fields; *A, Vera, Defence of Numantia; Munoz
Degrain, The *Lovers of Teruel' (p. 93); ^Degrain, Landscape; ^Mar-
Une% OubeUs , Peter I. of Portugal compelling his vassals to do hom-
age to the corpse of Inez de Castro ; Moreno Carbonero, Conversion
of the Duque de Gandfa; C. Flaaenda, Establishment of the Roman
Republic ; M. Domxngue%y Death of Seneca ; R, Madrato, Arabs ; A.
Ferrant, Entombment of St. Sebastian; jLuna, Death of Cleopatra;
RuixLuna, Battle of Trafalgar. — Room V. *M,ViUega8'Bnebay
Horrors of war; Vrgdl, Cemetery, Village-church; J. G'arneto, Death
of Lucan; Falomo Anaya, Death of the Virgin. — Room VI. * Hi-
dalgo CaviedeSj Rhea Sylvia ; J. Qaertner, Destruction of the *Invin-
cible Armada'; A, B, GU^ The last news of the lost son ; *V. Cu-
ianda^ Workmen striking; F. J, Amerigo, Right of asylum; Gomez
Gil, Moonlight on the sea ; Avril, Sea-piece ; *R. PuUdo, Widowed ;
*C. Fed, Domestic scene ; M, Santa Maria, Secret correspondence.
— Room VIL *A,FiUol, The ^Great Man' of the village (4a gloria
del pueblo'); *Checa, Barbarians invading Rome; J. SoroUa, A fall
from the rigging ; Armesto^ Sardine fishing; Gesaa, Flowers ; N. Raw
rich, Swamps of Nemi ; J. Femcmdez Alvarado, Sea-piece.
Among the ScfVLPTUBBS, some of which are scattered through
the palace and others placed in the picture-rooms, the following
may be mentioned, a. Spaniards: J. Alvarez, Allegorical group -
92 Route 8. MADRID, d. Pasio de la Cagtellana,
tlie defence of Saiagossa by Palafox (p. 165) ; L. Barrdn, Yirlathas
(bionze) ; J. (?tn^«, Venus and Cupid ; E, Martin, San Juan de Dios
carrying a sick man, Recumbent Bacchante; 8, Medina, Egyptian
woman meditating on Paganism and Christianity, Recumbent £ury>
dice. F. Moratillay Faith, Hope, and Charity ; Venus with the shell ;
Bacchus (bronze) ; Neapolitan flsher-boy. /. FiquSr, St. Jerome with
the lion (bronze) ; A. QuenSl, Legend (*La Tradicion'; bronze); A,
VaUmitjanaj Christ, St. George. -» b. Foreigners : Canovaj Mars and
Venus, Pan ; B, Qroa , Seated figures of Charles IV. and his wife
Maria Louisa; TadoUrUj The prisoner OLa Cautiva'). Tantardinij
Children in the cradle; Girl meditating ('El Amor Rendido') ; Venus
(*Am6r e Intents'); Veiled bust of Queen Isabella II.
The Mnseo de Cieneias Katurales, or Natural History Museum^
on the groundfloor of the N. part of the Palacio de la Biblioteca y
Museos Nacionales (PI. H, 6), with a special entrance firom the Paseo
de ReooUtos (to the right of the flight of steps), was founded as
early as 1771 and contains a fine collection of mammalia, birds,
fishes, molluscs, Crustacea, minerals, and fossils. Among the last
may be mentioned a megatherium, found in 1789 on the Rio Lujan
near Buenos Ayres, a whale's skull with jaw-bones, found at the
Puente de Toledo near Madrid, and the remains of a mastodon.
The Paseo de RecoMtos ends at the Plaza db Colon (PI. II ;
H, 6), which contains a Statue of Columbtts by Jeronimo Suiiol
(1885). — The FaBOO de la Castellana (Pl. I; H, 5-2), which be-
gins here, derives its name from a spring, the water of which, on
account of its coolness, Cervantes characterized as 'extremadisima'.
The spring rose near the obelisk mentioned below. To the right of
the paseo is the Qerman Embassy (Embajada de Alemania). — In
the N. part of the paseo, beyond the Plaza del Obelisco (PI. I ; H, 3),
with its modem Obelisk, are an Equestrian Statue of Marshal Manuel
Outierrez de la Concha (1808-74), by Andres Aleu, and a large
bronze *Monument of Isabella the Catholic (PI. I; H, 2), by Manuel
0ms (1883). Adjoining the last, standing in a garden on a height to the
right, is the new Palacio de la Indu^tria y cle las Artes (PI. I ; H, 2),
used for the annual exhibitions of art. — To the N. the paseo ends
at the Hipddromo (PI. I, H, 1, 2 ; sec p. 58).
In the Calle de Claudio Coello is the church of San Andres de
Ids Flamencos (PI. I ; I, 4), the high-altar-piece of which is a large
♦Painting by Rubens (of his latest period), representing the Cruci-
fixion of St. Andrew in presence of Mary Magdalen and St. George (?).
Key of the church kept by the sacristan, who lives adjacent (1 p. ;
best time for a visit, 1 p.m.).
Among the liveliest streets in the N. quarters of the town are the
short Calle de la Monttfra (PI. II; F, 7), which runs to the N.E. from
the Puerta del Sol fp. 66), and its continuation the Calle de Fuen-
N. QuarUn, MADRID. 8. Routt, 03
carril (PI. H ; F, 6, 6), which is about 1 M. in lenj^th. To the E. of the
latter(No. 6 Galie de Saa Mateo) ie the CoU^ de Sordo-Mvidot y de
Ciegos(F\. U ; O, 6), or asylam for deaf-mutes and the blind, founded
in 1806 (adm., see p. 61). Beyond theGlori^to de BUbao [Pl. I, ^;
F, 5) the street ends at the Globibta db Qubtbdo (PI. I, F 4 ; tram-
way-line Ha, p. 56). — Here begins the broad CaUe de Bravo Murillo
(tramway lib, p. 56), which ascends to the N. to (i/a M.) the —
Bap^itOB del Guud da Loioya (PI. I, F 3; adm., see p. 61),
the reserfoirs from which Madrid Is supplied with drinking-water.
They lie on both sides of the street and occupy the highest ground
in the city. The Old Btmvoit, to the left, constructed in 1858, is
embellished with a fountain and three allegorical figures referring to
the river Lozoya. It contains a supply of water sufficient for three
days and is connected with three ramdlea or canals, two for the
acequfctSy or irrigation channels, and one for the aqueduct of drink-
ing-water. The separation is made at the Casa del ParUd6r. The
New Beaervoiry to the £. of the street, completed in 1883, is in the
form of a huge vault, 23 ft. high, 230 yds. long, and 160 yds. wide,
supported by 1040 granite pillars. It contains about 83,000,000
gallons of water, or enough to supply the city's needs for nine days.
A third building is now in course of construction to the N. of the
old reservoir. — The water is procured from the river Lotoya, which
rises in a lake on the Penalara (p. 122), at a height of 8000 ft. above
the sea-leveL It is jflrst collected in the Pont6n dtla OUva^ formed
by a stone embankment (preea), 120 fl. high and 18-166 ft. thick,
and then conducted to Madrid, up hill and down dale, by the Caned
de Lozoya (44 M. long), which was constructed in 1861-68.
A little to the N.W. of the Depositos lies the CanMntexio de la
8aeram«it41 de Saa Luis (PL I ; £, 2), a cemetery laid out in 1831,
which may be reached either by the cart-track beginning opposite
the 'Lavadero del Lozoya' (Calle de Bravo Murillo 30) or by the
footpath skirting the N. side of the old reservoir. It contains the
graves of Francisco Goya ri764-1828) , the painter, and of Juan
Eugenio Hartaenbusch (180d-80), a writer of German descent and
author of the popular 'Amantes de Teru^l' and other novels. The
peculiar Spanish custom of burial in niches (comp. p. 210) is well
illustrated here. Fine view of the Guadarrama Mountains.
We may now take the tramway from the Depositos to the Glorieta
de Quevedo and thence follow the Calle de San Bernardo towards
the S.W. This leads to the Glo&ibta db San Bbbnaj&do (PI. I ;
P, 5), which occupies the site of the notorious Quemadero, or place
of execution erected by the Inquisition for the benefit of heretics.
In the making of the adjoining Calle de Carranza (to the £.), soon
after the September Revolution of 1868, eloquent relics of this
'bras^ro Inquisitoriar were discovered in the shape of large deposits
of ashes, cinders, and human bones.
In the part of the CaUe de San Bernardo to the 8. of the glorieta
94 BouU S. MADRID. d, N, Quarters.
lie the large HospUdl de la Princesa (right ; PI. I, E 5) ; the old Con-
vent ofMontaerrat (right), now used as a prison for women (Cdrcd de
MujeretJ, with a long-closed and ruinous church; and the new
Oonvento de Uu Salesas (left).
Just beyond the last, to the left, is the Calle de Daoiz, leading to the
Plaza dei, Dos i>k Mato (PI. I; F, 5). In the middle of this, surrounded
by flower-beds and enclosed by a railing, is the gateway of the old Parque
de MimieUon, where the Spanish artillery officers Luis Daois and Pedro
Velarde fell on May 2nd, 1806, in the attempt to expel the French (p. 67).
Farther on in the Calle de San Bernardo is the UniverBity (PI.
E, 6), which was removed to Madrid in 1836 from Alcala de Henares
(p. 152) and received the title of Vnherndad CentrcU. It occupies a
building named El Novidado, formerly belonging to the Jesuits, and
is now attended by about 6600 students. Adjacent is the Miniaterio
de Oracia y JusUeia{V\. 11 ; E, 6), or Ministry of Justice. The street
ends at the Plaza de Santo Domingo (PI. II; E, 7). — No. 4 in the
Calle de Isabel la Cat61ica, which runs hence to the N., is the old
Prison of the Inquisition. In the revolution of March, 1820, this
building was stormed by the people and partly destroyed; after-
wards it served as a barrack and finally passed into private hands.
A few decades ago extensive subterranean dungeons were discovered
below this building, containing numerous human bones. — We may
now return from the Plaza de Santo Domingo to the Puerta del Sol
through the Calle de Preciados j or we may proceed to the W. through
the Calle de Torrijos to the Plaza de los Ministerios (p. 100), and thence
to the Plaza de Oriente (p. 96). In the Calle de Torrijos (No. 9) is the
BritishEmbassy^ in the palace once belonging to Card. Ximenez (p. 63).
e. West duarters of the City. Plaza de Oriente. Soyal Palace
and Armeria. Marine Musenm. Calle Mayor. Plasa Mayor.
The Callb del ArenXl (PI. F, E, 7), the scene of an attempt
on the life of King Amadeus in 1872, leads to the W, from the
Puerta del Sol (p. 66) to the Plaza de Oriente and the Royal Palace.
To the left, about halfway down the street, stands the church of
San Gin^B (PI. E, F, 7 ; 8t Qenesius), which contains a statue of
Christ by Alfonso Vergaz and a Scourging of Chris£by Alonso Cano.
The fore-court (lonja) formerly served as a graveyard ; and the vaults
(Idveda) under the church (entrance in the Calle de Bordadores)
were once frequented by religious enthusiasts of both sexes for dis-
ciplinary flagellation.
The Oalle de San Martin, beginning opposite the church of St. Gines,
leads to the N.E. to two small squares lying side by side : — to the right
the Plaza de las Descalzas, and to the left the Plaza de San Martin (PL II \
F, 7), with its flower-beds. On the 8. side of these squares lie the Caja
de Ahorro* (municipal savings bank), dating from 1838, and the Monte de
Pieddd (municipal pawnshop), founded in 1703. In front of the two build-
ings are statues of their founders, the MarqtU* de Pontejoe and FrancUco
Piquir. The convent-church of the Deecalzas RecUes^ to the K., contains
the handsome monument of the foundress, the Infanta Maria, daughter of
Charles V., by Pompeo Leoni.
«. W. Quarters. MADRID. 8. Route, 95
The Calle del Arenil ends at the attractive Plaza de Isabel Se-
gunda (PL II ; E, 7), in the middle of which is a Statue of the Drama.
On the W. side of this plaza stands the Teatro Re&l (see below).
The *PlAia d6 Oriente (Pi. II; £, 7), the largest plaza in Madrid,
was laid ont by Joseph Napoleon, the ^Rey PlazuiHas' (p. 64), who
removed several convents, a chnrch, a garden, and about 500 houses
to make room for it Its dominant feature is the imposing £. fa9ade
of the royal palace, from which it is separated by the Calle de BaUin
(pp. 101, 104). On the E. side stands the Teatro Re&l (p. 67). — The
middle of the plaza is occupied by an oval ^Qloriita\ surrounded
by fourteen colossal statues of kings (*Reyes'), which, having been
originally designed to adorn the roof of the palace (like the similar
figures in the Buen Retiro, p. 84, and at Burgos and Toledo, pp. 27,
143), are not seen to adyantage at close quarters. In the middle of
the GloriAa rises a fine ^Equettrian Staitue of Philip IV., executed
by Pietro Taeea of Florence, after a painting by Velazquez, and
hence, perhaps, more pictorial than plastic in its general idea. It
is east in two parts, which are united by the saddle-girth. The balance
of the rearing horse is said to be maintained by the circumstance that
the hind-quarters are filled vrith lead. The rellefli represent the
king conferring the cross of Santiago on Velazquez and encouraging
the arts and sciences. The handsome Fountain^ with its four bronze
lions, is by FrantUeo Elids and Joai Tonuu, The plaza and palace
produce a very picturesque impression by moonlight.
The *BojaI Palaee (Palaeio Bedl, PI. D 7; adm., see p. 61), an
imposing rectangular structure on a height overlooking the Manza-
nares, occupies the site of an older palace (destroyed by fire in 1734),
which had succeeded the Moorish Alcazar. On every side, and especi-
ally from the valley of the Manzanares to the N.W., its general effect
is very impressive. The rapid slope of the ground towards the W.
has been neutralized by immense substructures of solid masonry,
which add greatly to its bold effectiveness as seen from that side.
The building is in the form of a quadrangle enclosing a court; it
occupies 26,900 sq. yds. of ground, its sides are 500 ft. long, and
its height varies from 80 ft. to 165 ft. (including the substructures).
This rectangle^ at the comers of which are four massive 'torres', is
adjoined on the S. by two projecting wings, enclosing the Plaza de
Armas (p. 97). The entire building consists of granite, with door
and window openings and other ornaments in white, marble-like
*piedra de Golmenir\ The original plan for the new palace was
supplied by the Turin architect Juvara, who designed a building on
a mu"h more extensive scale to occupy the heights of San Bernardino,
to the N. This, however, was rejected as too costly, and the present
palace was begun in 1738 from the designs of OiovanrU Battista
Sacchetti, also of Turin. It was ready for occupation in 1764, when
Charles III. took possession. Its total cost down to 1808 amounted
to about 75,000,000 pesetas (3,000,000^.). The main facade is o^
96 BouU 8. MADRID. e. Royal Palace,
the S. side, but it is better to enter the inner court (145 ft. square)
directly from the N. side.
The main features of the Intbbiob are the Throne Room, the
State Dining Room, the Hall of Gasparini, and the Grand Staircase.
It was on the Grand Staircase (Esealera Principal) that Napoleon
said to his brother Joseph 'yous serez mieux logtf que moi\ and that
he exclaimed, laying his hand on one of the white marble lions,
'je la tiens enfln, cette Espagne, si desirtfe'. The ceiling is covered
with a large painting of the Triumph of Religion and the Church,
by the Italian Corrado Oiacinto, — The 8cd6n de Embajaddres or
Throne Boom, dating from the time of Charles III. (1759-98), is
very elaborately decorated. The throne is superb ; it has four steps,
and on each side are two lions of gilt bronze. The huge chandeliers
are made of rock crystal, mounted in silyer, and the mirrors were
made at San Ildefonso (La Granja). The ceiling is adorned with a
painting of the ^Majesty of Spain', by O, B, TUpolo^ representing
the virtues of the kings and various types of the people in their local
dress. — Another superb room is the Cdmara de Oasparini, designed
by the Italian artist of that name in the reign of Charles III. The
ceiling is made of porcelain from the factory of Buen Retire, in
Japanese design; the walls are covered with ivory-white satin,
embroidered In gold and flowers of different colours. — The SttUe
Dining Boom is the largest in Europe. It consists of three rooms
divided by two arches, and is wholly made of marble of different
colours and bronze. The middle fresco represents the return of
Columbus to Barcelona with the treasures brought from America,
which he offers to Ferdinand and Isabella. — Scattered throughout
the private rooms are a large number of magnificent docks (col-
lected by Ferdinand VII.) and a fine show of Porcelain from the
factory in the Buen Retire (p. 86). — The windows command fine
*yiews of the city and of the plain bounded by the Guadarrama Mts.,
on which the Escorial is conspicuous. To the W., at our feet, are
the Manzanares and the park of the Real Casa de Campo.
The Palace Chapel (Real Capilla de Palaeio), in the N. wing of
the palace, and entered from the corridor of the main story, contains
16 large columns of dark-grey marble, and has its dome and walls
adorned with frescoes by Corrado Oiacinto (Holy Trinity and tutelary
saints of Spain). Above the high-altar is an Annunciation by Baphael
Meng$, of the latest period of the painter. — Two rooms opposite the
sacristy contain the Relicdrio de la Beal Capilla^ or Royal Treasiiry
of Holy Relics , placed here in 1896. Admission on application to
the director. Catalogue in preparation.
I. RooH. In the centre ia a reliqaary that belonged to Gharlee IV.,
riclily mounted with gilded bronze. Above the altar, on the wall, is a ailver
relief of Attila yielding to the prayers of Pope Leo I., by Algardi of Bo-
logna (17th cent.).
II. Room. First Case: 39. Crucifix of malachite, before which the
Spanish kings say morning-prayer on their birthdays. — Second Oase :
i^. Reliquary with a splinter of Christ's crown of thorns^ 38. Chalice made
Armetid. MADRID. 8. Rwie. 97
of the Ant p]attBiia Iwovffbt from Amertoa: 43. BeUquArj with the right
arm of John the Baptist, formerly belonging to the Knighti of Kaltai
59. Seliqnary with the *lignnm cnici8\ at the adoration of which on Good
Friday ue Spanish kings pardon condemned criminaJs (eomp. p. 58) : 57.
Reliquary containing a nail from the cross of Christ, said to haTe been
taken from the French crown-treasury by Francis I. and sent to Charles V.
in 1026 in order to obtain the release of the French hostages detained in
Xadrid. Both of thete last reliquAries are richly ornamented with jewels
presented by Queen Isabella U. (representing a value of 2bfiQ0l.). 59. Be-
liqoary with an extraordinarily minute group of the Cruciflzion, carved
in wood by AI. Btrruguite (p. Uv). — Third Casd: 119. Chest with the
bones of King Ferdinand HI. (d. 1252), who was oanonited in 1671. — Fourth
Ca«e: Cross of . rock crystal, once the property of Philip II. — On the
wall to the right of the window is an autograph of San Carlo Borromeo
(d. 1581).
The Tapieeria of the palace contains a unique Collection of Taputr^
(iapieet)^ coming from the old F^brica de Tapices, which, however, is not
shown to the public except in Easter Week (comp. p. 58), There are
800 pieces in all. The following are the moft notewonhy : Conquest of
Tanis by Charlee Y., executed by Paimemaktr of Brussels from drawings
by Jefutn CorndU Verme^en (ten pieces, two missing) ; History of the Virgin,
on a gold ground (six pieces); Story of David and Bathsheba^ Life of
St. Jobn^ Bearing (ft the Crosi, after Roger van der Weydeik; Temptation of
St. Antony, after Botch; Last Supper-, The Apocalypse; the Seven Deadly
Sins ; Ufe of St. Paul, after Blomnart,
The Royal Library, in the 17.E. angle of the palace, contains about
100,(XX) printed volumes, 3000 M SS. (some of which are very valuable), and
the AreMwo de la Corotta. It is shown only by permission from the In-
tendeneia General (p. 60).
On the W. side of the palace lie the Jardines del Palaeio, generally
known as the Ccmipo del Moro (PI. G, D. 7, 8) from the Almoravid Ali
Ibn Tdsaf, who pitched his camp here in 1109, when besieeing the Alcazar.
The gardens were first laid out by Philip II. in 1656 and are frequently
mentioned in Spanish history. For a long time they were left in a very
neglected condition, but in 1890 they were restored at great expense. The
two beautifhl marble fountains, the Fitente de la* Conehat and the Fuente
de Ice Triionei, were transferred to this spot from Aranjues in 1S41; the
latter has been painted by Velasques (No. 1109 in the Prado Gallery,
p. 16). Visitors are seldom admitted to the gardens.
Fiom the inner palace-yard a covered passage leads below the
S. wing to the Plaza db Armas fPl. II; 6, 7). The S.E. wing of
the palace contains the Intendencia and the servants* apartments. A.
fine view of the royal gardens, the valley of the Manzanares, and
the Guadarrama Mts. is obtained from the arcade on the W. side of
the Plaza de Armas. — The new building in the S.W. corner of
the Plaza de Armas, opened in 1893, contains the royal, —
**Anneria (PI. D, 8j adm. , see p. 60), a world - renowned
collection of arms and armour. The founder of the collection was
Charles Y., who enriched the old royal armoury at Yalladolid by
numerous excellent works of German and Italian origin. Philip II.
transferred the chief objects to Madrid and placed them in a build-
ing on tho site of the present new cathedral. There the collection
remained for over 300 years, enlarged by each successive ruler of
Spain. In 1834 this building was gutted by fire, when many ban-
ners and other contents of the armoury were destroyed. A cataloj^ne
is in preparation.
Babdbkbb''s Spain. 7
98 RouU 8. MADRID. «. W. Quarieri,
The Ybstibvlo contaias four suits of ancient Japanese armour,
presented "by a Japanese ambassador to Pbilip II. (1583) and
somewhat injured by the fire (p. 97). D 54, 55. Shields from the
Convent of Ofia (12-1 3tb cent.); M 71-74. Remains of standards
and banners of Charles F.; M 75. Remains of a banner of Philip IL and
his wife Mary of England; M82. Spanish standard used at the battle
of Lepanto (1571); M 87, 88. Remains of banners of Philip IL
Sal6n Pmncipal. To the left, by the S. end-wall. A 11. Light
fleld-suit and sword of PhiUp the Handtome (d. 1506); A 16.
♦Tournament- suit of PhiUp the Handsofne, — W. side. A 17.
Tournament-suit of Philip the Handsome; A 14. Light fleld-armour
of Emp, CharUs V, (d. 1558); A 108. Field-armour of Charles V.,
by the Augsburg armourer Piattner Kolmann (1531). The first case
contains morions and campaign-boots of Philip the Handsome^ Char-
les V.y and others. A 188. *Field- armour of Charles V., executed
by the Italian Bartolommeo Campi in imitation of ancient Roman
armour ; M 73. Remains of a banner of Charles V, The second case
contains the turban and armour of the pirate Kaireddin (^Barharossa^)
and a Moorish quiver taken by the ^Catholic Kings', A 295. Parts
of an equipment of Alexander Famese (d. 1592); A 369. Field
harness,, said to have belonged to Charles Emmanuel I, , Duike of
Savoy (d. 1630). — N. end-wall. Case 1 contains weapons and clothes
belonging to Ali Pasha^ the commander of the Turkish fleet at the
battle of Lepanto ; also a Turkish flag and other trophies, and the
banner of the Spanish admiral Don John of Austria {d, 1577). M 79,
78. Spanish standards from the battle of Lepanto. — £. side. The cases
contain consecrated swords, presented by the popes, for doughty
deeds against the infidels, to John II. and Hen/ry IV, of Castile,
Charles K., PMUp II,, Philip III., and PhiUp IV.; Toledo blades
(p. 147), cross-bows, hunting weapons and apparatus, and firearms of
the 16-17th cent. ; Turkish weapons of the 16-18th cent. ; Madrid
rifles of the 18th cent.; trophies from the conquest of Oran (1732);
sword of the Dvke of Wellington; uniform and other relics of Al-
fonso XII. (d. 1886).
We now return down the middle of the room. Section 1. To
the right, armour for cavalry and infantry from the end of the 15th
cent. ; tournament-suit of Charles V. (made by Kolmann of Augs-
burg; 1516) and the armour he wore at the capture of Tunis (1536).
In the middle are two Turkish ship^s lanterns, captured at Lepanto.
— A glass-case in Section 2 contains the famous ♦ Visigothic Crowns,
discovered in 1868 and 1860 at Guarrazar (p. 151). According to
an inscription on a similar crown, found at the same time and
place and now in the Mustfe de Oluny at Paris, these curious ob-
jects date back in part to the days of King Recceswind (649-672).
Farther on, to the right, are remains of a Moorish Banner taken
't the Battle of Las Navas de Tolosa (1212) ; spurs and remains
a cloak of St. Ferdinand (d. 1252); catalogue of Charles V.^s
Armerid. ' MADRID. 8, Houte. 99
Armoury, with drawings, prepared in 1560 for Philip II. ; travelling
litter of CharUi V.; chaise-k-porteurs belonging to PhUip II.; suits
of boy-armour made for Don Carloi (p. 74), Philip III. (d. 1621),
PfdUp IV. (d. 1666), Don BaUaaar Carlos (d. 1645 ; son of Philip IV.),
and the InfanU Ferdinandj the tictor of Nordlingen. To the left
arc various suits of armour belonging to Charles K., including two
by Kolmann (1526 and 1638), one made in Italy (ca. 1643), and
remains of the field-suit he wore during the unsuccessful attack on
Algiers (1641). — Section 3. To the right: A 239. Fine suit of
Pfdiip II., by Kolmann (1649); C 11. Milanese cuirass made by
Bernardino Oantoni for Emp, Maximilian I. ; parade-armour , by
Pfeffenhauser of Hamburg, supposed to have belonged to King
SdtatUan of Portugal (d. 1678); 0 12, 13. Milanese armour of
ChaHa V,; A 147. Italian parade-armour of Charles V. In the ease
to the left are the Weapons of Francis I. of France^ captured in 1626
at the battle of Pavia. (The alleged sword of this monarch was
restored to France at Marat's demand in 1808, with various absurd
and humiliating formalities.) The same case contains the swords of
St. Ferdinand (the famous <Lobera'), of the Cid ('la Golada* and *Ia
Tizona'), of Ferdinand V. of Aragon(d. 1516), of Oonzdlo de Cor-
dovaj the 'Great Captain', of Fernando Cortes (f), of Charles V., and
of Philip II.; also the ♦Helmet of King Martin of Aragon (d. 1410),
the BuTgundian morions and shields of Charles V. and Don John of
Austria, and the gauntlets of Emp. Maximilian I. — Section 4. To
the left: Armour of Charles V., including a magnificent ♦Suit of
field-armour, made by Nigroni of Milan, and the equestrian armour
worn by the emperor at the battle of MQhlberg (1547); weapons of
Elector John Frederick of* Saxony, captured at Muhlberg. To the
right, Armour of PhUip IV. (d. 1665). — - Section 5. To the left:
Armour of Philip II., by Kolmann (1544), Wolf of Landshut (1560),
and others. To the right: Armour of Philip III. and Philip IV.
In the middle are French and Portuguese ship's lanterns, captured
by Alvaro de Bazan (p. lOB) in 1582, at the battle of the island of
San Miguel. — On the walls hang tapestry from the Tapiceria
fp. 97), including four pieces of Brussels tapestry of the begin-
ning of the 17th cent., with scenes from the campaigns of Arch-
duke AJbert in the Low Countries.
The Catedxkl de Kuestra Sonera de la Almudena (PI. P, 8),
now building (from designs of the Marqttes de Oubcui) on the site
of the Old Armoury, takes its name from the ancient church of the
Virgen de la Almudena (see p. 63), which stood down to 1869 hard
by, at the comer of the Calle Maydr (p. 103).
To the N. of the palace, and entered by No. 2 Calle de Bail^n^
are theBeales Caballerizai y Coch^ra (PI. D, 7; adm., see p. 61),
OT Toyal stables and coach-houses. The horses, about 100 in num-
ber, represent studs in different parts of Europe. Among the most
7*
100 RouU8. MADRID. e. W, QuarUrs.
interesting are the cream-coloured horses from the royal stud at
Aranjuez (p. 126), the ^jaqnitas' of Andalusia, and the ponies from
the Shetland Isles and Galicia. The fine mules, used in the royal
carriages, will also attract attention. — The Hamess Room (Cfuar-
iUb) contains harness, saddles, liveries, caparisons, hammer-cloths,
and the like. The old stirrups (etirCbos)^ with pointed ends used
as spurs, should he noticed. — Among the state and other carriages
in the Coch^ra are many of historical interest. An ebony carriage,
ih which Johanna the Mad is said to have driven about with the
dead body of her husband, really dates from the 17th century.
Among the others are a carriage given by Napoleon I. to Charles IV.
and the bridal carriage of Ferdinand YII. and Christina of Naples.
Opposite the Royal Stables opens the Plaza db los MxNisTiBios,
with the Senado (PI. E, 7) or Senate, a building of little interest,
originally an Augustine coUege. In 1814 it was the meeting-place
of the first Cortes, and bore the inscription : Xa podestad de hacer
leyes reside en las Cortes con el Rey\ A little later, after the
return of Ferdinand VII., it was plundered by the mob. In 1836 it
was assigned to the senate. The staircase is embellished with a
painting of the battle of Lepanto by Juan Luna Novicio (1887) ;
the Sal6n de Conferencias contains the celebrated * Surrender of
Granada by FradUla (1882). -- To the right is the MinUtry of the
Marine (PL E, 6 , 7). We pass through the main doorway, traverse
the courts, and proceed through the door to the right to the —
Museo Vayal (PI. II, E 6; adm. , see p. 61), [an interesting
collection of models of ships, arms, plans, flags, portraits, and the
like, founded in 1843 and oocnpying eleven rooms. Catalogue 1 p.
Ground Floor. The Vestibule (Porteria) conUins a painting of an
episode in the battle of Cape St. Vincent (1797), some ohip^s lanterns
(t'ardlas), and other objects. In the middle ia an ethnographical collection
trom China, Porto Bico, Cuba, and other places. — Boom I (8aia de
Artenales). Belief-plans of the arsenals of 8an Fernando, Cartagena, £1
Ferrol, Porto Bico, etc. Collection of the varions kinds of timber used
for ship-huilding in different countries ; models of ships and docks ; view
of Cartagena; lantern from the wrecked ship ^Ferdinand VIP. In the
middle of the room are two large canoes, each made of a single piece
of wood. — Boom II (Sola de Artillerta y Mdquinat). Collection of fire
arms, models of cannons, projectiles; model of the engines of the cruiser
yumantia; spears from the Philippine Islands, Sniu, Fernando Po, etc. —
Boom III (8ala de Jdrcias y Velamen). Specimens of cordage and cablea. —
We now ascend the winding staircase to the —
Firat Floor. Boom IV (Sola de CoUmias UUramarinag). Portraits of
Juan Sebastian Elcano, Ferdinand MagalhSes (Magellan), Vasco Nunez de
Balboa, Fernando Cortes , and Francisco Pizarro ; piece of the tree under
which Cortes spent his ^doleful night* (la noche triile) in Mexico (see
Baedeker^s United States and Mexico) \ representation of the discovery of
America on Aug. Srd. 1492 •, weapons and banners from Cochin China,
taken at Saigon in 1869 ; weapons and n^odels of boats of the nativea of
the Philippine Islands, Borneo, Celebes, China, and South America. —
Boom V (Bala de la Marina Bistoriea). Water-colour paintings of ships
from antiquity down to the present day ; portraits of Don John of Austria,
'Andrea Doria, Boger de Lauria, and other celebrated admirals ; consecrated
Mweo Naval. MADRID. 8, Route. 101
sword presented by Pope Pius V. to Don John of Anstria; remains of
tvfro Spanish ships, the *8an Pedro Alcintara* and the ^8oberaao\ which
sank in 1816 and 1864 ; models of ships, etc. — We now proceed to the
right throach an ante-room into Boon VI (Sola d$ R^aterdtu ColonMnot).
Portraits of Columbns (Ko. 1. Copy of the portrait in the National Library),
Pisarro, Magalh2es, and the ^Catholic Kings*; copy of the map of the
world by Gabriel de Valseca (lA99h chart drawn in 1500 by the pilot Jaan
de'la Cosa, from observations made on the second voyage of Columbus in
1493. — we now retam through the ante-room to Boom YU (Saia ds F»r^
namdo S«gt0), Portraits of Ferdinand VI., his minister Marqu^ de la Bn-
senada, and other contemporaries; paintines of the battle of Trafalgar
(1806) and other naval engagements*, painting of the battle of Lepanto
(Kg. 33), broaght from the Dominican convent of Malaga and valuable
for its representation of the ships and eostomes of the time. In the middle
of the room, various models of sliips. — Boon VIII (Saia ds to Marina
Modema). Ships* models of the 19th century, including (near the exit) the
unfortunate cruiser ^Beina Begente', which was lost in 1896 *, admiral's uniform
worn by King Alfonso XII. ; painting by Alvares, representing the Em-
barkation of King Amadeos at Genoa. — Boom Ijl (Becuerdoa d* Marino*
JUwatru). Picture of the Trinity from the ship ^Trinidid' in the battle of
Trafalgar (1806)-, uniform of Admiral Gravina, commander of the Spanish
fleet at Trafalgar, and the flag of his ship the ^Principe de Astdrias*;
^Diccionario I>emostrativo\ a monumental work on ship-building by the
Marqu^ de la Victoria, completed in 1766. — Opposite, on the other side
of the staircase, is Boom X (Jmlrutnento* CUhH/Ico*^ Torp*do» y Tarpidtrot).
Colleetion of nautical instruments ; models of torpedo-boats \ relief- models
of the island of Teneriffe. — We descend the staircase to —
Boom XI (Siecidn de Puca). Fishing boats and apparatus; natural
history colleetion of marine animals.
Following the Calle de BaiWn (pp. 96, 104) towards the N.,
we reach the Plaza db San Mabcial (PI. II ; £, 6), with the large
CSwrUl (barracks) de San OU. In the grounds adjoining the Calle
Ferraz, to the N.W. of the barracks, rises a Bronze Statue of Catsola,
Minister of War (d. 1890), by Benlliure. On the height to the N.W. ,
which commands a good Tiew of the Manzanares valley, is the huge
Caartel de la Montana (PI. D, 6). The adjoining quarters of Arguellet
and Pdzaa do not repay a visit except to those who are specially
interested in such institutions as the Cdrcel ModSlo (PI. I ; G, 4),
the Asilo de San Bernardino (PI. I ; C, D, 8), and the Eseuela de
Agricultura (PI. I ; B, 2), in the old Casa de la China (porcelain -
factory) in the Moncloa,
The Valley of the Mantandrea, which is conveniently reached
from the Plaza de San Marcial by the Paseo de San Vicente (PI. II ;
D, 7), offers little of interest.
The Manzanares^ seldom more than the most insignificant of streams,
enjoys a factitious reputation from its frequent appearance in satirical
writings. It rises on the Guadarrama Mts., 6 BI. from the village of Manza-
nares, and at Facto Madrid^ a little below the capital, joins the Jarama,
which flows into the Tagus at Aranjuez. In former centuries the shady
groves on its banks were a favourite haunt of the HadHlenos and the
scene of the al fresco festivities of high and low, so often described by
the poets of the 17th century. Now, from the Paente Verde to below the
Puente de Toledo, its scanty waters are diligently made the most of by
hundreds of washerwomen.
From the end of the Paseo de San Vicente the Passo db la
Fjlobida (PI. I, CB6-4; tramway -line IVc, p. 56) leads to the
102 Routes. MADRID. e, W, Quarters.
N.W., passing (right) the Esiaci^ del Norte (p. 53), to the Enoita
da San Antonio de la Florida (PI. I \ B, 6), close to the JPimUe Verde
(p. 65). The dome of the churcli, which dates from 1792, is adorned
with fine ^Frescoes hy Goyct, The paseo is continued by the Camino
del Pardo (p. 108). — The Pasbo db la Vibgbn dbl PtTBBTo (PI. II ;
C, 7, 8) leads to the S. from the Paseo de San Vicente to the Ermita
de la Virgen del Puerto, on the Manzanaies, and thence to the Puente
de Segovia (p. 65). — A third route leads across the Puente del Bey
(PI. 0, 7) to the Casa de Campo (PI. I, A-C, 6, 7 ; adm., see p. 61),
an extensive royal park, laid out by Philip II. and containing large
ponds, several springs (one of them chalybeate), a *palacio' (close
to the river), a church, a pheasantry (faUaneraJf a Campo Santo, a
cow-stable, and the so-called Pozos de Hielo^ or ice-cellars. On a hill
near the large pond rises tta Torrecilla^ a keeper's house command-
ing a most extensive and beautiful ♦View of Madrid.
Of the two great streets running towards the W. from the Puerta
del Sol (p. 65) that to the S., the Callb Mayob (PI. F-D, 8), is
one of the city's chief arteries of traffic. The E. section of it lies
within the oldest part of the city, but the W. half intersects the
suburb of Santa Cruz. The short side-streets to the left, near the
site of the former Puerta de Guadalajara, lead to the spacious —
♦Plaza May6r (PI. E, F, 8), or Plaza de la ConstitvcUhh, with its
fountains and pleasure-grounds. In the centre rises an *Eqiie8trian
Statue of Philip IIJ., probably the finest monument in Madrid, mod-
elled by Giovanni da Bologna after a painting by Pantoya de la Cruz
and cast at Florence by Pietro Tacca (1640). Down to 1848 it stood
in the Casa de Campo. The plaza was laid out at the beginning of
the 17th cent., numerous houses in the suburb of Santa Cruz having
been removed for the purpose, and was long used for ceremonies
and shows of various kinds, tournaments, executions, 'autos de f^
('acts of faith'), horse-races, and bull-fights. The balconies of the
houses served as boxes for the spectators, of whom 50,000 could be
thus accommodated. The Balcdn de Marizdpalos was fitted up by
Philip IV. for his mistress. The lower stories of the houses are
fronted by arcades.
The plaza was inaugurated hy a festival in honour of the beatification
of St. Isidro, held on Hay 15th, 1620. A year and a half later Bodrigo
Calderdn^ Marquit de Siete-Iglitigty was executed here. In 1622 the square
was the scene of several other acts of canonisation, including that of
Ignatius Loyola (p. 13), for which Lope de Vega wrote a drama. Other
spectacles included bull-fights and Good Friday proceJ«sions of penitents
and flagellants. The brilliant tournament held in 1623, in honour of
the Prince of Wales, afterwards Charles I. of England, was followed by
a series of bull-fights and autos de fe. A court-festival in 1629 lasted
40 days and is said to have cost 3,000,000 p. (60,000i.). The entire 8. side
of the square was burned down in July, 1631; and the N. side, with the
Panaderfa (p. 103), followed suit on Aug. 20th, 1672. On June 30th,
1680, an auto de f^ lasted from 7 a.m. till dusk. Of the 80 accused, 21
™«Te burned alive on the Quemadero (p. 93), the flames not dying out
^fter midnight Charles II., his queen, and his court attended this
TwmHaU. MADRID. 8. Route. 103
edifrinc speetaele for twelve hoan (oomp. Risi's painting bI the Prado,
Ho. lOlo, p. 74). Similar spectMles took place in the 18th eent. under
the Bourbons. The plaza wm also visited by •evcral conflagrations. In
1812 the British entered Xadrid in triumph; the constitution of Oadis was
proclaimed and the name of the square was chnnged. Later it wa^ the
scene of several riots and encounters between the militia and the regular
troops. The name of the souare alternated between Plaza de la Consitita-
r.idn and Plasa Betfl, with snort Intermesxos of Plaza de la Repdblica and
Plaxa de la Beptiblioa Federal. In 182S the Federalists removed the statue
from its pedestal and offered it (in vain) for sale. It was re-erected In 1874.
The chief building in the sqnare is the Gasa PANADBRfA, on
the N. side, which derives its name f^om a bakehouse erected here
by the magistrates in 1590. The Panaderia was rebuilt after the fire
of 1672, and its facade was adorned with frescoes from designs by
Coeilo, recently replaced by others by Martinet Ouhellt* The interior,
containing administrative offices and the rooms of the fire-brigade
(aervicio de incindio8)y is uninteresting. — Opposite the Panaderfa,
on the S. side of the square, is the C€ua ConsUtori&l^ also used for
mnnicipal purposes.
The short Galle de Gerona leads to the S.K. from the Plaza Mayor
to the small Plaza deProvincia, with the Ministebio ub UlteamAr
(PL 11; F, 8), built in 1636 as the prison of the Audi^ncia and
tastefully restored. The interior contains a wide staircase and two
glass-covered courts, with marble statues of Sebastian EUano (left)
and Cohimbua (right). Round the cornice are inscribed the names of
the chief Spanish discoverers. On the second floor are several pic-
tures, among which may be mentioned the Landing ofOolumbus,
by Dioteoro, some landscapes by Sanchez^ and a large piece by Pietro
da Cortona. — The Calle de Atoeha (see p. 106) runs hence to the
S.E. A little to the W. is the Calle de ToUdo (p. 105).
The W. part of the Galle Mayor was formerly named the Calle de
la Almudena (comp. p. 99). Calderon died here at No. 75 (comp.
p. 106), Lope de Vega was born at No. 82. — To the left opens the
Plaza db la Villa , with a Bronte Statue of Admiral Alvaro de
Baz(in (1526-88), by Mariano Benlliure, and the Casa de Aynnta-
miento (PI. £, o), or CUy Hall, a building of the 17-18th cent.,
with three towers. The chief features of interest in the interior of
the latter are the fine staircase, the handsome 8al6n de ColumnaSy
the Chapel (with frescoes by Antonio Palomino), and a few autograph
writings of Calderon. — To the E., opposite the City Hall, stands
the quaint Torre de los Li^anei, in which Francis I. of France is
said to have been confined before his transference to the Alcazar. It
was restored in 1880.
The Galle Mayor ends at the Calle de BaiUn (p. 104) and the Plaza
de la Armerfa, just to the S. of the Almudena Cathedral (p. 99),
To the left rises the large PcUacio de loa Contejos^ containing the
Capitania General (PI. D, E, 8). — Opposite, at the corner of the
short Calle de la Almudena, is the Palace of the Dvhei of AbranUf
tOA BouUS. MADRID. f. 8.W, Quarttrs.
now the Italian Embassy. The name Almudena recalls the Moorish
period, 'almudin' being the Arabic word for *corn magazine'.
The Palacio Pafttrasa, Calle do la Almudena Ifo. 3 (PI. II: D, £,8),
was the residence of Princess Eboli. In front of it, on March Slst, 157S,
ruan Etcobido, the secretary of Don John cf Austria and a notorious rival
of the Princess EboH's lover Antonio Perez, was assassinated by hired
bandits. In the fagade turned towards the royal palace is a small' door-
way (now kept closed), from which Philip II., muffled in his cloak and
surrounded by an armed guard, is said to have watched by night the
execution of his behest to arrest the princess and convey her to the castle
of Pinto.
f. South-Weit dnartexB of the City.
The S. prolongation of the Callb db Bail^n (p. 95), beyond
the W. end of the Calle Mayor (p. 103), crosses the Calle de Segovia
by a Viaduct (PI. H; D, 8), 430 ft. long and 75 ft. high, erected in
1873. Beyond the viaduct, a little to the right, lies the Campillo
DH LAS VisTiuLAS (PI. II; D, 8, 9), wMch affords an unexpected
♦View of the valley of the Manzanares. The Travesfa de las Vistillas
leads hence to the S, to the imposing dome-covered structure of —
San Fxancisco el Grande (PI. D, 9), the Fante6n Nacional of
Spain, bearing the inscription : ^Espana d sus Preclaros Hijo8\ The
Ermita that originally stood on this site was afterwards replaced by
the Convento de JesHs y Mariaj and the latter received its present
form in 1761-84. The decree converting it into a national pantheon
was passed in 1837 but not acted on till 1869. The dome, the lan-
tern, and the portico with its two towers are partially modelled on
those of the Pantheon at Rome,
The beautiful doors, with scenes from sacred history and ornament-
ation in the Renaissance style, were carved by A, Vm'ida.
The *Iiiterior is open from 7 to 12 and 3 to 5 (printed description
sold at the entrance, 25c.). — The nave is adjoined by an apse, containing
the high-altar, and by six chapels. Each of the last has room for 100 graves,
and 200 more can be made behind the high-altar. The pillars are adorned
with figures of the Apostles by Mariano BenUittre^ Ricardo Bellver, and
other sculptors. The modem frescoes on the cupola and in the chapels,
by Plasencia, Cubetts, Ftrranty Jover^ Dtgrain^ etc., are full of colour but
seldom attractive. — - The decree of the Cortes that the remains of all
distinguished Spaniards should be interred here has so izx been very im-
perfectly executed. In spite of the most diligent research, the 'Comisidn
de Inaoguracidn* wa3 unable to trace the present resting-places of Pelayo,
Guzman, Cervantes, Lope de Vega, Herrera, Velazquez, or Hurillo. The
most eminent names among those who were interred here in 1869 are those
of Juan Mena, Oonzalo de Cdrdoba, Oarcilaso de la Vega, A. Morales^ A. de
ErciUa, Lanuza, Quevedo^ Calderdn, V. Rodriguez, J. de Villanuetay and
Gravina; and the remains of moet of these had afterwards to he restored
on the remonstrance of their descendants and fellow-provincials.
From San Francisco the Carrera de San Francisco (tiamway-line
IV d, p. 56) leads to the N.E. to the Plaza db Morob (PI. II;
B,9), with the church of San Andris (P1.E,8,9), which dates in its
present form from the 17th century. On the N. the church is ad*
joined by the CapiUa del ObispOy erected by. the 'Catholic Kings'
in 1620, above the original tomb of S. Isidro (p. 106), and now
under restoration.
BaMro, MADRID. 8. RouU, 105
The former PLAaA db la Obbada (PI. II ; E, 9), in wMch Geu.
Riego (p. 487) was executed on Nov. 7t]i, 1822, has been eonyerted
into a large covered market (mercado). Along the E. side of the
mercado rang the wide Oallb db Tolbuo (_P1. E, 8, 9), one of the
chief aiteriee of traffic in the S.W. part of old Madrid. In it is the
Hospital de la Latina (PI. Uj E, 9), hnilt by Haatan the Moor
(1507), with a Gothic doorway and a large staircase. Farther to the
N., on the E. side of the street, is the church of San Jsidro el Redl
(PI. E, F, 9 ; p. 106). - To the S. the Calle de Toledo ends at the —
Pnerta de Toledo (PI. E, 10), a large but unsightly gateway
with three entrances, erected in honour ofthe return of Ferdinand VII.
from his imprisonment at Valency. The upper part, embellished
with allegorical figures and military trophies, bears the Inscription :
*A Fernando YJI el deseado, padre de la patria, restituido a sus
pueblos, termlnada la usurpacidnfranoesa, el ayuntamiento de Madrid
consagrd este monumento de fidelidad, de triunfo, de alegrfa. Afio de
1827*. The bronze letters of this extraordinary inscription were
torn down by the revolutionists in 1864 and 1868, and the date alone
w«3 left uninjured.
The Calle de Toledo is continued by the wide Paaeo de loa
Ocho Saa8 (PI. D, £, 10, 11), which descends to the S.W., crossing
the track of the ^Ferrocarril de Circunv€Uacidn\ to the Manzanares
and the Piunte de ToUdo (PI. I, D 11 ; p. 65).
By following the Camioo Alto de San Isidro to the N.W. from the
Paente de Toledo, we reach tke celebrated Ermita de 8aa laidro del Oampo
(PI. I; B, 11), at which (Hay 16-30th) ia celebrated the 'Romeria* described
at p. o9, still the chief fSte of the lower classes of Madrid. Behind the
church lies the *Cement4rio de San UidrOy the upper part of which contains
some large mauaolea. — Among the other cemeteries in this district are
the CemeniiHo del Bur (PI. I ; D. 13) ; the CemmUrio de San LormtOy Caminu
de Carabanch^l, with a beautiful view of the town and the Ouadarrama
valley; and the CemenUrio Jnglia. or Protestant Cemetery (consecrated
in 186f).
Uninteresting and dirty streets, forming a strong contrast to the
Madrid of the Puerta del Sol, lead to the £. from the Calle de To-
ledo to the so-called BMtro (PI. £, F, 9), one of the largest rag
fairs in the world, regularly visited by dealers in antiquities from
other parts of Europe. The scene of busy animation here, extend-
ing on Sun. morning from the Plaza del Bastro all along the Ribera
de Curtidores to beyond the Ronda de Embajadores (PI. II; F, 10),
forms a worthy counterpart to the Piazza Navona at Rome, as it was
in the days of .papal rule.
In the Galls ns £mbajad6jui8 (PI. F, 9, 10) ia the Foundling Hospital,
known as the Indusa from an image of the virgin brought from Enkhuisen
in Holland. The *nino8\ who are placed on the ^torno' at the entrance,
remain in the hospital till the age of seven, when they are removed to
the CoUgio de Deeamparddoe or de la Pat in order to learn a trade. —
Farther on in the same street, to the left, is the Fdbrica Nadondl de To-
bacoe (PI. F, 10^ adm. on application to the ^conaerje"), in which about
QOOO hands are employed, mostly girls. Oppofite (to the right) stands the
laria , or veterinary college (adm., see p. 61). — Frt »
EecmUa de VeUrinaria .
\0Q RouUa. MADRID. g. 8,E. QuarUrs,
this point we may follow the Ronda de Valencia (PI. II tF, 0, 10) to the
N.S. to the S. Railway Station and the Prado (comp. p. 107: tramway-line
Illb, p. 55).
Returning from the Kastro to the N. to the Callb de Toledo,
we soon reach San Isidro el Be&l (PI. E, F, 8), an imposing granite
building, but with little pretension to architectural eflPect. The first
church on this site was dedicated to SS. Peter and Paul. The present
building, dating from the middle of the 17th cent., was banded over
to the Jesuits. On their expulsion in 1769 the church was con-
secrated to St. Isidore *the Peasant' (San Isidro Labrador, d. 1170),
the patron-saint of the city, whose bones were brought hither from
San Andres (p. 104). The church , which at present serves as the
cathedral of the diocese (comp. p. 99), is decorated with large
paintings by Coello, Herrera the Younger, and other artists. Above
the high-altar is a Trinity by Bapluul Mengs.
The side-streets diverging to the E. beside the church of San
Isidro lead to the attractive Plaza del Prooreso (PI. II ; F, 8, 9),
which contains a statue of the statesman Juan Alvarez de Mendizd-
bal (1790-1853), by Jos^ Grajea. The Calle de los Tintoreros, the
next side-street to the left, leads to the Puebta Cebbada (Pl. II ;
E, 8), taking its name from a long-closed (*cerrado') gate, which was
Anally removed in 1569. The site of the gate, in the middle of the
square, is marked by a large Cross of white stone ('piedra de Colme-
nar'), for which an *Arca de Agua', or small reservoir, serves as base.
The N. part of the Calle de Toledo is flanked by long arcades
and innumerable drapers' shops, in which 'mantas\ *f ay as' (sashes),
and jackets of all the hues of the rainbow are offered for sale. The
street ends at the Plaza Mayor (p. 102).
g. South-East Quarters of the City.
The chief street of the S.E. part of Madrid is the Calls db
Atooha (PI. F, G, H, 8, 9), which begins at the Plaza de Provin-
cia, near the Plaza Mayor (p. 102). Immediately to the right is the
new Gothic church of Sarhto Tom&s (PI. II; F, 8). Farther on, to
the left, is the old building of the Banco de Espana (p. 67), now
occupied by the Direccidn Oenerdl de la Deuda Puhlica (Administra-
tion of the Public Debt). To the right, nearly opposite, is the Mi-
nisterio de Fomento (PI. II ; F, 8), or ministry of public works, in
the bid convent of the Trinitarian or Bare-footed Friars.
The short Calle de San Sebastian, the next side-street to the left, leads
to the Plaza de Santa Ana (PI. II , F, O, 8) or Platuela'del FHncipe Al-
fonso^ a small square with pleasure-groandf*, laid ont on the site of the
former convent of banta Ana. On its W. side stands the Teatro BtptMol
(see p. f>7}. In the middle of the square rises the MomunerU of Cdld9r6n de la
Barea (lw0-168i), by Figu^ras, erected in i879. The figure adjoining
the great dramatist is Fame; the reliefs on the pedestal represent scenes
from his plays. The site of this monument wa^ formerly occupied by the
bronze statue of Charles V. as the victor of Tunis, now io the Prado
Tuseum (p. 88). — The Calle del Prado (PI. G, 8) leads to the E. from
it plaza to the Plaza de las Cortes (p. 68). — The quarter of the city
Acad, de la Hiatoria, MADRID. S. Route. 107
to tbe a of the Galle del Prado eontaina muiy X«moii«l TabUto (U»pidm)
to the great Spanish poets. Thus, Ko. 15 Galle de Cervantes (PI. 11: 0, 8)
is dedicated to lope de Vega (18021686), *al fenlz de los ingenios'. Below
is tbe inscription Lope himself placed upon his house: °D.0.1i. parva
propria, magna. Magna aliena, parva' ('a small possession of one's own
IS great J a great possesion of another is Kmair). The house at the corner
of this street and the Calle del Le<Sn was that in which CeroatUet (*cnyo
iagenio sdmira el mundoj) lived and died (1647-1016; pp. 37, 163). A tablet
on the Convento de laA Trinitarian (PI. II; G, 8), Calle de Lope de Vega,
markft the spot where Cervantes was buried.
In tbe Calle del Le^n (PI. II ; G, S\ vbich diverges from tbe
Calle de Atocba a little fartber on, lies (No. 21) the Beal Aeftdemia
de laHiitoxia, founded in 1738 and now (since 1865) also entrusted
with tbe care of tbe national monuments of Spain. Tbe director is
Cditovas del CcutUlo.
The IfcsEUV of the Academy contains the silver *I>Uk' of Emp. Theo-
(foiins, a large medal found at Almendralejo (p. 460) in 1847; a Moorish
banner, formerly in tbe church of Han Est^baa at Gormas; a reliquary
from the Monasterio de Piedra (p. 166), with paintinu of tbe Aragonese
sebool (1390); a portrait of Vargas Ponce, by Zacarias Velasquez ; a collec-
tion of eoins ; and other objects of interest.
The LiBBAET contains about 16,000 printed vols, and 1600 M 88. Among
the latter, many of which come from Saa Millan de la CogoUa and 8an
Pedro de la Cardena (p. SO), are tbe Codex Cornet^ witb interesting min-
iatures (744) ; the Oriffinum teu etfmologiarwn Hbri XX of leidore of BeviUe
(10th cent.)-, C<»nm«nlary of Beattu on the Apocalypu^ a copy of 1178; tbe
Apoloffetiea Bittoria de lae Jndiat, by Bartolomi de la* Cauu (lOlh cent.).
Fartber on, the Calle de Atooha passes the two large hospitals of
(right) San Juan de Dios (PI. G, 9) and (left) Nuestra 8enora del
Carmen (Pi. G, 9), and also the Facultad de Medieina (PI. G, If, 9),
belonging to tbe university (p. 94).
Tbe Calle de Atocba ends at the open space in front of the Esta-
ci6w DBL Mbdiodi'a or Southern Railway Station (PI. H, 9, 10 j
p. 53), on which several other important streets also debouch. To
the N. is the PaaSo del Prado (p. 69) j to the S.W., the Ronda
de Atoeha (PI. II ; G, H, 10), continued by the Ronda de Valen-
cia (p. 106); to the S., the Pcuio de las Deltcias, which leads to the
somewhat remote Eatacidn de las Delieiaa (PI. I; H, 10, 11). To
the E. runs the Pasbo db Atocha (PI. H, I, 9, 10), in which, to
tbe left, lie the Escuela de Artes y Ofieioa (Pl. II ; H, 9), or school
of art and design, and the Museo AntropoWgieo (PL II; H, 9). The
latter, erected in 1875, is covered by a dome, preceded by an Ionic
portico, and embellished with statues of Michael Servet and ValMs
de Covarrubia, surnamed *E1 Divino'. The collections are insigni-
ficant (adm., see p. 61). — The Calle de Alfonso Doce diverges to
the N. At theMuseo Antropologico, and in it, on an eminence to the
right, stands the Observatorio Astrondmieo^FU 1, 9), a tasteful build-
ing begun by Juan de Villanueva (p. 116) in 1790, partly destroyed
during the period of the war with France, and not restored till 1847.
Regular observations have been made here since 1851. Fine view.
The Paseo de Atocha ends to the E. at the Basilica db Nubstba
Sbnoba db Atocha (PI. I, 10), which was rebuilt in 1896. The
108 Route 8, MADRID. .
church occupies the site of the ancient and celebrated Ermita de
Atocha (atocha = esparto grass), which was a place of Christian
pilgrimage eiren in the Moorish times. It was built in the 16-17th
centuries, much damaged by the French in 1809 , and afterwards
restored. It was long the church of the court, which attended the
* Salve* here every Sat. afternoon. It contained the much revered old
image of the Virgen de Atocha, regarded as the national saint of
Spain since 1643, and also the tombs of Gen. Palafox, the Duque
de BaiMn , and other celebrated men, and some old banners and
standards. The new building is in the Romanesque style and con-
sists of alternate layers of white and grey stone.
To the E. of the Basilica de Atocha, Calle Fuenterrabfa No. 2,
is the Redl Fahrica de Tapfces, or Tapestry Manufactory (PI. I; K, 10),
which was founded in 1721 by Philip V. outside the Porta de Santa
Barbara and transferred to its present site in 1889. The tapestries
manufactured here have retained their repute to the present day.
Visitors are admitted by permission of the manager.
FroD) this point we may proceed to the left through the CalU de
Reina Criatina and then ascend by the Rondo de VaUecas to (1/4 hr.)
the E. entrance of the park of Buen Retiro (p. 84).
h. Environs of Madrid.
The Environs of Madrid have no special attractions. Almost the
only point of interest is the royal hunting-ch&teau of El Pardo,
which lies about 7 M. to the N.W. It is reached from the Paseo
de la Florida (p. 101) by a pleasant avenue and by the Puerta de
Hierro; and a diligence runs to it twice daily from the Calle Cava
Baja (fare 50 c). The chateau, situated on the highest point of the
little town of the same name, was built by Charles V. in 1643 and
rebuilt by Charles III. in 1772. It contains numerous frescoes by
Bart. Carducho, Bayeu, Zacarias Velazquez, Galvez, Ribera, and
other painters, tapestry after drawings by Teniers, Goya, and Bayeu,
a small theatre, and a chapel with a Bearing of the Cross after Ri-
balta. The extensive Fark contains beautiful evergreen oaks. —
Po%u4lo (p. 60) is a favourite goal of driving parties from Madrid. —
A little to the N.E. of Madrid lies the village of CfcamortM, with the
PcLUice of the Duke ofOsuna^ in which Napoleon I. resided at the end
of 1808. It is now a Jesuit seminary.
9. Excursions from Madrid,
a. Escorial.
S2 M. Railway in 11/4-2 hrs. (4-6 trains daUy^ fares 5 p. 90, 4 p. 40,
3 p. 65 c.); departure from ihe Sttaddn del ^orte (p. 53). — Return-tickets,
available for the day of issue, cannot be had except on Sun. and festivals
n tbe height of summer.
l^iis^^-/-
ESCORT AL. 9, Routt. 109
32 M. BMOliAl. — The BaUway BUftioa lies in Xnaridl dt AbaJc,
or the lower village.
Hotels. FovDA DE MiXANDA (PI. a), Galle Florida Blanca, d(<j. 4, pens.
121/30.: FovDA T^DsvAor ifew ffoM (PI. b), Calle Peguerinoa, V« M. to
the M.w. of the eonvent, leas pretending, d^J. 8Vti D. i, peas. 8 p. The
hotela are in B§eori6l d* Arriba^ or the npper village ^ both are mediocre
and expensive for passing visitors.
Omidhns between the station and the upper village in connection with
all the trains (fare 60 e.). Numeroos C<A» are also In waiting.
The OUaf Sights of Escorial may be visited in one day, bat the
tonrist must eonsult the notice posted beside the church, as the hours
of admission are often changed. lAbrary^ daily, ezeept Sun. and holi-
days, 9-12 (winter 10-12) and 2-4i •CSkiireA, 6-4 s PaiUhem^ daily, except
Sun. and holidays, 2-4: SaeriMif, High Choir, and CMMten, daily. 11.80-B;
*Ch€ipttr Eammy 12.80-8,. Bon. and festivals 1-8; Jtsyot FeOact^ by order
(papeleta), daily, 11-3; CoiUa dti ftindpt, by order, daily. 9-6. — The
orders, good for 7 persons, are issued free at the house No. 8 of the *Gom-
paiia' in the Calle de la Parada, opposite the N.W. angle of the convent.
— Adm. to the library and church is free ; in other cases a single visitor
pays a fee of 60 c, a party 1-2 p. — No notice should be taken of the im-
portunate guides and children, who molest the tourist even in the church.
The village of Escoridl congists of two parts : the old village of
Eacori&l de Abajo (3030 ft.), lying to the £. of the rail, station, and the
npper village of Eseorifil de Arriba (ca. 3300 ft.), situated on a S. spur
of the Guadarrama Mts. and containing 3100 inhabitants. The latter,
which is a favourite summer-resort of the Madrilenos, is abont 1 M.
to the N.W. of the rail, station, whence it is reached either by a
shadeless road or hy a somewhat shorter footpath, both skirting the
Jardin del Prfncipe (p. 116). The name Escorial, which the Orient-
alist Casiri deriTes from the Arabic ('place of rocks*), comes more
probably from the refuse (scoriae) of its abandoned iron-mines.
The upper village owes its existence to the foundation of the
Beal Sitio or Beal Monasterio de Ban Lorenso del Sscoriil, As
the story goes, Philip VL vowed, during the battle of St. Quentln,
fought on the day of St. Lawrence (Aug. 10th), 1667, that he would
baild a convent to this saint, a Roman soldier and martyr of Spanish
birth, in compensation for the necessary destruction by the Spani9h
artillery of a chureh dedicated to him. As a matter of fact the battle
of St. Qnentin was won by Philibert of Savoy, and Philip did not
reach ^e field till all was over. It is, however, quite credible that
this victory may have induced Philip to add a convent to the burial
church which he was bound to erect by his father's will; while the
deep Impression made on him by the much wondered at and much
landed renunciation by Charles V. (d. 1568) of a crown for the
cloister (1566) may have suggested the idea of combining a country
residence for himself with the new monastery. After a search of
two years the spot uniting the desired qualities of solitude and
comparative proximity to Madrid was found above the village of
Escorial. Juan Bautista de Toledo, an eminent architect who had
studied in Naples and Rome, was summoned by Philip in 1559 to
carry his plans into effect; but this artist died in 1563 after super-
110 Routed. ESCORIAL.
intending the preliminary operations and laying the foundation-stone.
No less eminent was his successor Jiuin de jperreray who had learned
his art in Brussels, accompanied Charles V. in his Italian cam-
paigns, and followed him with his body-guard to the monastery of
Ynste, after which he had acted as assistant to Juan Bautista.
Philip II. himself, however, was largely responsible for the building.
Not only w^^s the general idea his, but he cooperated with the ar-
chitects in making the plans and sketches, he dedded technical
questions, he selected native and foreign artiste to assist in the work,
and he kept a sharp eye on every department and every worker. The
building was carried on with extraordinary rapidity. The cross was
placed above the dome in 1581, and on Sept. 13th, 1664, the final
stone was laid in position. The Pantheon, or burial-vault, was,
however, finished by Philip's grandson, Philip IV. The total cost of
the structure is estimated at 16,500,000 pesetas (660,000 «.).
According to the popular notion, the ground-plan of the Escorial
represents the gridiron on which St. Lawrence suffered martyrdom,
the royal palace standing for the handle. The style is that of the
late Renaissance of N. Italy and Rome, which seeks for effect by its
proportions alone. The Doric order is the one preferred. The huge
wall-surfaces are destitute of ornament and broken only by small
windows. The material used is the whitish-grey granite of Peralejos.
Thus the Escorial, one of the most remarkable edifices of all time,
seems to grow organically out of the stony sides of the Guadarrama
Mts., and resembles, except in its majestic facade with its three
well-ordered doorways, a fortress Or a prison. For the decoration of
the interior Philip caused his ambassadors in Rome, Florence, and
Genoa to search for painters. The most eminent of those who respond-
ed to his invitation were Fed, Zixccari, Luca CambiasOy and Pelle-
grino TibcddL The most prominent of the Spanish artists employed
was Juan Fernandez Navarrete of Logrofio. Comp. p. Ixviii.
^The Escorial is an example of what the will can, and what it cannot
do. It has been said that will is all-powerful: within certain limits this
is true, bat it is impotent to create one work of genius. This divine spark
is lacking in Philip's creation. He had the misfortune to belong to an
age which was gifted neither with creative power nor with taste, and
which was above all but little adapted for the production of a monunaent
of high religions art. Thns a rigid geometrical design was impreased on
the whole, while it was executed in a style which its contemporaries
termed noble simplicity and its admirers majesty, while the taste of to-
day finds it only repulsive dryness. Finally, the way in which the royal
builder prescribed the most minute detail*, his restless and omnipresent
superintendence ^ his often niggling criticism ^ his sombre habit of docking
the designs submitted to him of all that seemed over-rich or too osten-
tatious — these and other similar causes could not but paralyse the joy
of creative energy .... Without freedom neither beauty nor truth ia po8<«
sible. The spirit of stem etiquette, which Philip impressed on the Spanish
court and which proved so pernicious to the mental forces of his suc-
cessors, looks at us with petrifying efifect from his building. And the
great charm of the EscoriaU as forming as it were a part of the landscape
in which it is set, was one not contemplated by its builders' (*Philip II.
als Kunstfreund', by C. Jutti).
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KSGORIAL. 9. Route, HI
*Th« grand »&d gloomy fabric towera over the roeky deaert — a monu-
ment of solidity — too melancholy to be proud, too dignified to be defiant,
but calmly conscious of its iron strengtb, and impressing beholders with
a comvietion of its indestmctability It seems to stand with sullen
determination there where it was placed in the very heart of the gierra
— stone of its stone, and strong of its strength, a giant among giants ;
for, strange to say, its proportions suffer no diminution from the lofty
objects with which it is surrounded' (^Cosm de Eapafia\ by Mr», Pitt Bpmi),
The Eseorial lies to the W. of, and a little below the village, on
a plate-like depression made level by the aid of huge snbstractures
of masonTy. The immense building fonns a rectangle measuring
680 ft. from W.N.W. to E.S.E. and 530 ft. in width. The four
Tovjeri at the angles are supposed to be the f^et of the gridiron.
On the W. the building is adjoined by the Plaza del Monasterio, a
wide court partly paved with slabs of granite ; to the N. is the Galle
de la Parada; to the S. and £. are terrace-gardens. To the N. and
W. are the Compaha, a series of administrative offices, stables, and
the like, so called from their 'accompanying' the main parallelogram,
and also an Eacuela EspeeUil de IngerUeros de Monies^ or school of
forestry. — The kernel of the rectangle is formed by the Templo or
church, the dome and towers of which rise high above the neigh-
bouring buildings, while the E. end (*Oapilla May6r') projects some-
what beyond the line of the outer walls. The church is adjoined on
the S. by the spacious Paiio de lo8 EvangeliatcUj or cloisters, and on
the W. by the Paiio de losReyea, or entrance-court. The rest of the
parallelogram is divided up into small courts and transverse build-
ings. The buildings next the walls are several stories in height,
and their rooms and corridors are lighted only by the windows on
the outside. The royal apartments (Palacio Redl) occupy the ad-
vanced building forming a prolongation of the capilla mayor. The
sacristy and chapter-rooms (Salas Capitvlares) are in the outer build-
ings to the S. of the church. Almost all the other rooms, especially
those to the S., W., and N., were used as conventual apartments,
including cells for the monks, the library, and the refectories. In all
there are said to be 16 courts (pdtioa)^ 2673 windows (of which 1562
open on the courts), 1200 doors, 86 staircases, and 89 fountains.
The total length of the corridors is about 100 M. — Since 1885 the
Escorial has been in the hands of the AugusUnes (Agmtinos Calsuidos)^
who manage the Colegio in the N.W. part of the building. This is a
school giving a complete education, beginning with elementary
classes, to boys destined either for a clerical or a secular career.
The Main Entbanob (Portico Principal del Monastetio) is in the
middle of the W. facade, and is noticeable for the huge blocks of
stone of which it is constructed. Above the door is a Statue of St.
Lawrence^ 13 ft. in height, by J. B. Monegro. In his left hand the
saint holds a book, in his right a gilded gridiron; the head and hands
are of white marble, the. rest of the figure of granite. — Through the
Ybstibvlb, the door to the right within which leads to the Library
of Printed Books (p. 115), we reach the —
112 Rouie9. ESCOMAL.
P&tio de loi Be^rei, a court 204 ft. long and 118 ft. wide, en-
closed by the cliurcli (E. end) and other buildings. It derives its
name from the six statues of. 'Kay.es de Juda' (Jehoshaphat^ Hezekiah,
David, Solomon, Josiah, and Manaateh) which stand on Doric columns
on the facade of the church. Each figure was carved by J. B. Monegro
out of a single block of granite; the heads and hands are of white
marble, the crowns and sceptres of gilded bronze.
The *Chiiroh is architecturally the masterpiece of the Esoorial.
It is flanked by two towers, each about 230 ft. high, and is surmounted
by a huge dome and lantern, over which are piled, one above another,
a fluted pyramid 26 ft. high, a hoUowball &^jifi, in diameter and
IY2 *on in weight, and (lastly) a cross, the top of which is 312 ft.
above the floor of the church. The visitor may ascend to the lantern
by an outside staircase, but the result scarcely repays the toil*
The Intebiob is entered by one of the small doors to the right and
left; the main door is opened only for royal personages, alive or
dead. We first find ourselves in the dark Coro Bajoj or lower choir,
beneath the Coro Alto (p. 113). — The church is built, on the model
of the original plan of St. Peter's at Rome, in the form of a Greek
cross, over the intersection of which rises a dome (cimhorio) 296 ft.
high and 55 ft. in diameter. The nave and aisles are covered with
very flat, and therefore bold vaulting. The dome, of unpainted
granite, rests on four massive piers, each 35 ft. in diameter, and on
the arches uniting these piers. These dimensions are extraordinary ;
and 'it taxes the imagination to realize that we are here simply in
one fraction of a building'. Amid the formal harmony, where each
proportion has the force of a mathematical law, the 48 altars, and
still more the large frescoes on the vaults, seem almost an imper-
tinence. The handsome flooring is of white and grey marble.
. The Altars, some of which are adorned with valuable paintings, are
placed against the piers and In the various ChapeU. — Eight of the com-
partments of the vaulting are adorned with Fuscoes by Luea Giordano,
representing the following scenes: Vault 1 (N.E.), Annunciation, Concep-
tion, Nativity, Adoration of the Angels and the Magi; Vault 2 (S.B.\
Israelites in the wilderness •, Vault 3 (N.W.), Triumph of the Church
Militant ; Vault 4 (W. end of central aisle), Last Judgment; Vault 6 (S.W.)
Allegory of the Immaculate Conception ; Vault 6 (middle of S. aisle),
Victory of the Israelites over the Amalekites ; Vault 7 (to the left of the
high-altar and above the altar of St. Jerome), Condemnation of St. Jerome ;
Vault 8 (in. front of the capilla mayor), Death, Burial, and Assumption
of the Virgin.
The •Capilla Mayob, which is reached by a flight of steps, con-
tains the high-altar, the so-called oratories, and the royal tombs.
The retablo of the High Altar, 98 ft. in height, executed by Oiaeomo
Trezzo of Milan, consists of the most costly varieties of marble and shows
all the four orders of architecture. The capitals and bases of the columns
are of bronze gilded. The 15 gilt-bronze figures and the medallions are
by Leone and Pompeo Leont, two Italian masters. The paintings are by
PeUegrino Tihaldi and Federigo Zuccari. Behind the altar lies the founda-
tion-stone Cla primera piedra') of the church. — To the right and left
of the altar are the Oratorios, four low chambers of black marble. Above
these are the Entierros Boales, with kneeling * Bronze-gilt Figures of
ESGORTAL. 9. Route, 113
roy»I penoaagM by finnpto Le<mt (IS ft. high). Those to the right are
Ckarle* F., Qtuf Jsabetta (motber of Philip II.), their daughter Maria, and
Charleses sistera Leonora and Maria. To the left are PhiUp IT,, his fourth
wife Anna (mother of Philip III. ; to his right), his third wife ItaMla
(behind him), and his first wife Maria of Fortugai, with her son Don
Ctarios. The statues are all portraits and admirable in detail.
Tbe Seliedrio, in the aisle to the right of the high-altar, once
contained an immense treasure of relics and valuables, but is now
uninteresting. The SagrMo^ behind the high-altar, has equally
little to oflTer. We turn to the S. to the Bajdda d ha Panteonea
(PI. B), or entrance to the Pantheon.
The *Psateta d« lot Beyeif or burial -yanlt of the Spanish
monarch s, was constructed by Philip II. immediately under the high-
altar, so that mass might be said daily over the royal remains. When
the priest elevates the host he is standing exactly above the dead
kings. A granite stslrcase of twenty-live steps descends to the first
landing, with the entrances to the Panteon de los Infantes (see below)
and to the IStdHdero^ a chamber in which the bodies are kept for
five years before removal to their final resting-place. We then
pass through a door of Toledo marble and descend another flight of
thirty-four, somewhat slippery, marble steps. — The Panteon de los
Reyes, which was not finished till 1654, is an octagonal vault, about
33 ft. in diameter and about the same in height. As Philip planned
it, it was of a suitable and impressive simplicity, but his successors
spoiled the eifect by overloading the sombre chamber with marble
and gold. Opposite the entrance is the high-altar, with a crucifix
of gilded bronze by Pietro Tacea, To the left of the altar are four
rows of niches in which the kings of Spain are interred; to the left
are similar niches for the queens. All contain sarcophagi of black
marble, with inscriptions in gilded letters. Philip V. (comp. p. 121) and
Ferdinand VI. and his wife are buried elsewhere. Only a few of the
26 niches are still unoccupied. — The ♦Pantb6n db i*os Infantbs is
the burial-vault of the royal princes and princesses and of those of
the queens who83 children did not succeed to the throne. Among
those buried here are Leonora and Maria, sisters of Oharles Y. ;
Eli%abeih of ValoU; Maria of Portugal and her son Don Carlos;
Baltaaar Carlos, son of Philip IT.; the Duke of Vend6me, natural
son of Louis XIV.; and Don John of Austria^ transferred hither from
Namnr in 1679.
A door in the S.E. comer of the church, adjoining the staircase to
the Panteon, leads to the Ante-Sacrlstfa and the 8acristfa(p. 114).
A stairease in the passage to the Ante-Sacrist(a leads to the Coeo Alto,
or Upper Choir, which is at the W. end of the church, above the
Lower Choir (p. 112). It was here that the monks assembled
for their devotions, in which Philip II. often shared. His seat was
the last in the S.W. comer, adjoining a private door, through which,
during the vesper service on Nov. 8th, 1571, a messenger annonnced
the victory of Lepanto (Oct. 6th), which saved Europe from the
Baipbkxs's Spain. 8
114 Route 9. ESOORIAL.
Turks. The king continued his devotions as if nothing had happened ;
but at the end of the service he ordered the Te Deum to be iihanted.
On April 14th and 16th, 1547, Philip attended the solemn notturno
and requiem held here in honour of Mary Stuart. The simple but
imposing choir-stalls were designed by Herrera. The large lectern
and the crystal chandelier should also be noticed. The worthless
frescoes on the walls and ceiling are by dncinato and Luqueto. —
Adjoining are the ArUeeoroSj containing a statue of St. Lawrence
(manufactured out of an ancient Roman statue), some frescoes by
Luca Giordano J and pictures of SS. Peter and Andrew by Navarrete,
TYkelAbreria del Coro contains 219 colossal ohoir^books of parchment,
some of them over 3 ft. high, finely bound and embellished with
miniatures by the monks Andres de Ledn and Julian de la F^ienie. To
the W. of the Goro Alto is a small room containing a large and cel-
ebrated marble crucifix by Benvenuto Cellinij bearing the inscription:
Benvenulua Celinua civis FLorentinua faciebat 1662. It was presented
by the Duke of Tuscany to Philip II., who is said to have caused it
to be carried on men's shoulders all the way from Barcelona.
Through the AnteSacrUtia we enter the Sacristift, a fine cham-
ber 95 ft. long and 26 ft. wide, containing a few pictures and some
handsome mirrors. The ceiling is frescoed by Nic, Grandlo and Fod-
ricio CasteUo. At the S. end of the room is the Betctblo de la Santa
Forma^ containing a host (Santa Forma) which is said to have bled
when trampled on by Zwingllan soldiers at Gorkum in Holland
(1526). It was sent to the relic-loving Philip by Emp. Rudolph II.
of Germany. The large ♦Painting by Clattdio Coelh, which conceals
the Santa Forma, represents its solemn deposition in this sacristy.
The heads are all portraits, including Charles II. (kneeling), the
Dukes of Medinaceli and Pastrana, the historian Santos (the prior
with the 'custodia'), and others. In the lower left corner is the paint-
er himself, who devoted seven years' labour to this picture. — Be-
hind the altar lies the Camarinj a richly decorated chamber, built
by Josi del Olmo and Francesco Bizi in 1692 and containing a * custo-
dia' for the Santa Forma, presented by Queen Isabella II. On Sept.
29th and Oct. 28th the altar-piece by Ooello is drawn up and tiie
Santa Forma exhibited to the public.
We now return through the Ante-Sacristfa to the Lower Cloisters
(ClavLStro Principdl Bajojj surrounding the Pdtio de los EvangeUstasj
a court 160 ft. square, which is so called from the statues by Mon-
egro. Ixi the middle is a templete or small temple. The frescoes have
no artistic value. — The S. side of the cloisters is occupied by the
Chapter Booms (Solas Capituldresjj containing a small but choice
* Collection of Paintings^ which deserves careful attention even though
many of its chief treasures have found their way to the Prado.
Cbntaal Booh. To the left, Coxcie, Annanciation, Kativity; in frunt,
Panto ja de la Cruz^ Charles V. — We then proceed to the right to the
8 ALA VicartIl. To Ihe right: Ribera, St. Jerome; Paolo Veronete, An-
nunciation; *Velazquezy Jacob and his Sons, painted at Feme at the same
ESGORIAL. 9,RouU. 115
time » ^Voteui's Forge' (p. 74) ^ JUberoj Jeoob end hia sbeep \ Jac^po Tin-
toreUo^ Weehing the Diadples* feet^ Lmta Givrdaito^ Beleenff es«t Nwfor-
rete, Exeenttoe of St. Jamea the Oieetert fVnferflle, ITetivity. Bnd-wall,
oppofite the entrence: Btffhtrs^ Flowen*, Ribera^ Two portraits. Window
wall: Fahna Oiowang^ St. Jerome: L. Oiordano^ Conrertlon of St. Paul;
TiHan^ St Margaret (eopy): L, Oiordtmo, Apollo and Marfyaa, PalUs and
Araehnei JUb^ra. Vativity (two pictaret)i Giordano, The Magdalen i *Bi'
bera^ The Trinity. — Sala Pbioeal, to the left of the Oeotral Boom.
Entranee-wall : aehaoHamo del Fiombo, Seourging of Chriat (eopy) \ Vonetitm
School, The Marie? at the Sepnlchre. Farther on, to the left: J>om. Thoo-
tocoptUij Martyrdom of St. Maurice, marked hy the strange colouring pe-
culiar to this master; TitOoTBtto, Esther before Ahsfuerus; 9VMan, Last
SuppcT (repainted) last disciple to the left said to be a portrait of Titian
hiaiflelf) ; Tktiorotto, Magdalen washing the feet of Je«Q« \ Thootooo]^, Dream
of Philip II., in which he seei Heaven, Hell, and Purgatory \ *Iiogor van
dor Wegden, Descent ftrom the Gross (comp. p. 76). End -wall, opposite
the entraaee: Morio dH Fiori, aoghoro, Flower>pieeef i TMan, Christ on
the Mt. of Olires (a late work). Window-wall: Three paintings by Bm-
»ano; Giordano, Noah intoxicated) Yacearo, Lot and his family leaving Sodom ;
TMoroito, Deposition In the Tomb.
On the W. side of the cloisters is the Old Chuboh (Igliria An-
Ugua; generally closed), which vas used during the building of the
Urge church. It contains three pictures hy Titian: Adoration of
the Mftgl, Ecce Homo, Martyrdom of St. Lawrence. — In the middle
of the same side of the cloisters is a magnificent Stai&oasb (EseaUra
Prineipdl), the masterpiece of Juan Bautisia de Toledo and J. B, Caa-
Ullo (El Bergamasco), It is adorned with a frieze by L. Giordano ^
representing the Capture of the Constable Montmorency at St. Quen-
tin, and Philip II. with the architects of the Escorial (portraits). The
Gloria (Apotheosis of St. Lawrence) on the ceiling is also by Oior-
dano and contains portraits of Charles Y., Philip II., Charles II., and
the wife and mother of the last. The other frescoes are worthless.
The Ufpbb Cloistbbs (Clauilro Principdl Alio) haye good paint-
ings by Navarrete (St. Jerome, Nativity, Adoration of the Shepherds,
Christ appearing to his Mother). Yisltors, however, are not admitted.
The ^Library of Fzinted Books (BiJblioUca de Impresoa) occupies
a large room (170 ft. long) above the portico leading to the Patio de
los Reyes (entr., see p. 111). It is decorated with warmly coloured
frescoes by Pellegrino Tibaldi and Bartolommeo Carducci and con-
tains five handsome tables of porphyry and jasper. The book-cases
were designed by Herrera. The older books stand with their fronts
towards the spectator and have their titles stamped on the gilt edges.
Among the nnmerons extremely rare and valuable works may be men-
tioned the Cddiee Aureo^ containing the Gospels, etc., written for the German
Emp. Conrad II. and finished about 1060 under Henry III. \ the C6dlc$ Viffiliano
C9Te); the Cddiet SnHUano (984): the Cddiee de Beteia (11th cent), with reports
of the Councils; the Cantigae de Banta Maria and other workfl otA\fon»o the
Learned (18th cent.); the RevelaHon of St. John, a M8. of the 16th cent.;
a Spanish MS. of Vinfife jBHoid (16th cent.) ; Greek MS8. ; Brooiary of Ohar-
fe«;;F., firom the Convent of Yaste; JYa^er Book (Dooodondrio) of Jtabella
of J\>rhiifal, wife of Charles Y. ; Herbarium of American plants, in 13 vols.;
ArcMe Koran of 1694; Globe used by PhUip n. in his astrological studies.
— On the walls hang *FortraiU. Near the 8. end, Serrera, architect of
the Escorial. At the N. end, Ariat Montano, first librarian of this collection.
8*
116 RouUd, ESCORIAL.
To the left, FhUip II. at the age of 71, by Pantoja de la Cruz or Sir A.
More; Charles V. at the age of 49, by Pantoja de la Crut after Titian;
PhiUp III.1 by the same; Charles II. at the age of 14, by CarreSio.
The extensive Libbaby of the Manuscbifts (BibUoteca de Ma-
mjucritos) is shown only to visitors provided with a special peimis-
sion from the Intendente de la Real Gasa at Madrid (p. 60).
We now leave the convent by the main W. doorway and proceed
through the Plaza del Monasterio (p. Ill), passing the Colegio
(p. HI), to the entrance in the middle of the N. facade. This is the
Entrada de Falaeio^ leading to the —
Fal&eio Beal. Philip II., in his own expression, wanted nothing
more than a ^cell, in which he might bear his weary limbs to the
grave' ; his snccessors created a palace and decorated it in the usual
style of the 17-18th centuries.
We ascend a granite staircase to the First Floob, the rooms of which
are decorated with Spanish tapestry (tapices) after Ooya^ Bayeu^ and Maella^
from the Tapicerfa of Madrid (p. 97), and with Flemish tapestry after Teniers
and others. The 8a!a de las Batallas (178 ft. long) is adorned with frescoes
(restored in 1882-89) by IT. Oranello and Fdbrieio CastellOy representing the
battles of Higueruela (p. 331), Lepanto, St. Qaentin, and Pa via, the expe-
dition to the Azores, etc. That of the battle of Higueruela was copied in
1587 from a piece of tapestry (130 ft. long) found in the Alcazar of Segovia,
and is of great historical interest for its picture of the dress of the period.
— Four rooms fitted up by Charles IV., at a cost of 7,000,000 p., are known
as Las Piezas de Madiras Finos ('the rooms of fine woods'). — A narrow stair-
case descend? to the Ground Floor, with the 'Cells of Philip II.\ a series
of humble apartments, in which the Spanish monarch lived and held
audiences. In a small room overlooking the capilla may6r of the church
(p. 112) Philip died on Sept. 13th, 1598, after a long and painful illness,
during which he sought consolation in prayer and in gazing at the high-
altar. The crucifix he held was the same that had been grasped by the
dying hands of his father.
Turning to the left on issuing from the principal portico on the
W. side of the convent, we enter the Oardens, which form a broad
terrace, affording an extensive ♦View of the lower gardens, the plain
of New Castile, and the Guadarrama Mts. They are diversified by high
box-hedges and grottoes.
The Casita del Principe or Casita de Ahajo (adm., see p. 109)
was built by Villanueva (p. 107) in 1772 for Prince Charles. To
reach it, we descend the Calle de la Parada along the N. side of the
convent for 6 min. , and then turn to the right into the Calle Larga,
which separates the monastery gardens from the lower park. A gate
to the left admits us to the uninteresting grounds of the Casita,
which itself lies in the S.E. comer of the enclosure. The Casita is
a *CaBa de Recrtfo', like the Casa del Labrad6r at Aranjuez (p. 125),
two stories in height and containing small and low rooms. It is, how-
ever, even more riohly adorned with paintings, china from the man-
ufactory of Buen Retire (p. 86), reliefs, ivory carvings, and em-
broideries. Among the pictures are a Daughter of Herodias hy Ca-
ravaggio, a St. Cecilia by Domenichino, a St. John by Annibale
Carracci^ and three works (St. Catharine, Death of Julian the Apos-
SEGOVIA. 9,R(mU. 117
tate, and Gonversion of St. Paul) by Luea Oiordano. — A gateway
in tha lower part of the gardens leads direct to the railway-station.
Those with plenty of time at their diaposal may visit the Com dd In-
fante or Com de Jrriba^ built for the Infante Gabriel (1762-88)>nd standing
in a pretty garden. About 2 M. to the S. is the 8flla del Rey.hrotkj nest
whenee FhlUp II. snrveyed the progress of the Escorial. — The woodi of
the fferreria (named after the architect), to the S. of the Escorial, afford
pleasant walks ^ and the Cerro de lot Arantes (4600 ft.), a somewhat stiff climb
of 2Vs hrs., commands an admirable view.
A good road leads from the Escorial direct to La Qranja (p. 130) vift
Ouadarrama (p. 62). Carriage-hire is, however, very high \ and the solitary
fonrist will do better by taking the railway to Segovia.
b. Segovia and La Chrai^a.
63 M. Bailwat to Segovia vi& VillaXba (np. 52, 61; three trains daily
ia scunmer) in 3y4-4 hrs. (fares 11 p. 66, 8 p. to, 6 p. % c). Departure from
the JEstaeidn del iforte (p. 58). No return-tickets. In summer tickets may
be taken and luggage booked through to La Granj%.
From Madrid to (63 M.) Segovia, see pp. 62, 61.
Segovia. — BaUway SUtion (PI. E, i), in the S.E. part of the city.
Hotels (comp. p. xx). Fovda Bdxgalksa, Plaza Mayor (PI. B, 3), pens.
8 p. -y FoHDA Oktioosa, Calle de Jnan Bravo, both very primitive.
Omnibus to La Granja several times daily (IVsP-).
Segdvia (3300 ft.), the capital of a province of the same name
and the seat of a bishop, with about 13,000 inhab., is of Iberian
origin, as the frequently recurring Iberian root aego (seca) indicates.
With its Roman remains, its Romanesque and other medieval churches,
and its characteristic old palaces, it is one of the most interesting as
well as one of the most venerable of the cities of Castile. Resembling
Toledo as a museum of antiquities, it aUo resembles it in situation,
being perched on a rocky hill, about 330 ft. high, between two small
streams, the Eresma (N.) and the Clamores (S.), which Join their
waters to the W., below the Alcazar. This rocky knoll rises from E.
to W., and its shape has often been compared to a ship in full sail
towards the setting sun. The city consists of a maze of narrow and
crooked streets, with quaint old houses, centering in the Plata Mayor
(PI. B, 2) or Plaza del A%oquejo (from the Arabic SUkh; see p. 141).
On the highest point of the hill stands the cathedral; on its W. pro-
montory, where it descends precipitously on three sides, rises the
Alcazar. Interesting old Walls, dating partly from the ll-12th cent,
and beginning at the Alcazar, enclose the whole town. These are
strengthened with semicircular cvhos (p. 32), and broken by the
Puerta de Santiago (PI. 1 ; B, 1, 2) on the N.W., the imposing
Puerta de San Andria (PI. 10 ; B, 2) on the S., and other picturesque
gates. Down the S.E. slope stretch San Lorenzo, with its once fam-
ous doth-iactories, and other suburbs.
^Segovia is an unmatched picture of the Middle Ages. You read its
history on the old city-walls wiui their eighty -three towers ; in the domes
# and belfries of its churches; in the bare and blank ruins of its deserted
monasteries ; in the battlemented towers of its noble mansions' (Siberian
BeminisoaikG«s\ by A. Gallenga).
118 ^Routed. SEGOVIA.
The most important structure in Segovia, and at the same time
the largest piece of Roman work now extant in Spain, is the ** Aque-
duct, popularly known as El Puente or El Puente del DidblOy from
one of the] usual legends connected with bridge-building. The
aqueduct, probably dating from the time of Trajan, brings the water
of the Fuenfria from the Guadarrama Mts. to the city, a distance
of about 10 M. The first part of the conduit, traversing the Pinar
de Yalsain (p. 123), is uncovered. Farther on it passes under the
La Granja road and reaches (9 M.) the old tower of Caterdn, The
next part of the conduit, 850 yds. long, ends in a reservoir or stor-
age-basin. Beyond this is the aqueduct proper (900 yds. long),
-which crosses the deep valley, the suburbs, and part of the city
itself, and ends at the Alcizar. Its 119 arches vary in height, ac-
cording to the conformation* of the ground, from 23 ft. to 94 ft. For
a length of about 300 yds. it consists of two stages. The highest
piers are just above the Plaza Mayor (p. 117). The entire structure
is formed of blocks of granite, without either mortar or clamps. It
has survived all the different kingdoms of the Iberian Peninsula.
During the siege of Segovia by the Moors (1071) -35 arches were
destroyed, but these were rebuilt in the old manner by Juan Escovedo
under Isabella the Catholic (1483). In a niche above the Plaza Mayor
is a statue of the Virgin, perhaps replacing one of Trajan. — From
the E. the houses of the town, rising in terraces, make a curious
picture as seen through the arches of the viaduct. The best points
to view the viaduct itself are San Juan (p. 119) and the corner of the
Calle de Gascos.
The ♦Cathedral (PL B, 2), on the S.W. side of the Plaza May6r,
was built in 1526 et seq., to replace the old cathedral, which had
been partly destroyed by the Comuneros. (p. 63). The architects
were Juan Oil de Hontanon and his son Rodrigo Gil, who followed
the design of their New Cathedral at Salamanca. It is in the form
of a Gothic basilica, with nave, aisles, and two rows of chapels,
inserted between the flying buttresses. Its length is 330 ft., its
breadth 158 ft. j the nave is 44 ft. wide , the aisles 30 ft. The
choir (core) is in the middle of the nave. The transepts do not
project beyond the side-walls of the church. Over the crossing rises
a cupola (cimborio), 220 ft. high. On the E., beyond the Capilla
Mayor, the building ends in a chevet of seven polygonal chapels.
On the S. side of the somewhat bare fa9ade rises a square tower,
about 346 ft. high, crowned by a cupola. Behind it, adjoining the
S. side of the church, are the cloisters. The exterior of the E. end
is almost too elaborate in its ornamentation.
The effect of the Intebiob is light and cheerful. Among the chief
features of interest are the Retablo. by SabaUni (end of the 18th cent.)^
the curious Tra$coro ; the marble flooring ; the stained-glass windows^
the pulpit 1 a rich silver Cwtodia (ciborium); and a fine chalice (c41iz),
presented by the Duque de Albnquerque. — The CapiUa de Nuettra S^Hora «
<f« la Piedad (the fifth in the TS. aisle) contains a ^Descent from the Cross
by Juan de Juni, with colossal figures (1571). Opppsite ig a painting of
SEGOVIA. 9. Route. 119
St. Tttomai hj AUmto Sdntk^t CoeHo. — From the Capilta M OrUto da '
ConnuUy the fifth ia the right aisle, a beftutifal Gothic portal leads to
the saperb Qothie *CL0i8TKBa (Clausiro), built by Jacm Camp*ro in 1634.
Among the namerons interesting monuments they contain are those of
GU de SonteMon and his son , the architects of the cathedral \ of the Jn-
/cmU JP^ro, son of Henry II., whose careless nnrse let him fall from a
window of the Alcazar in 1366; and of Maria del SdUo (d. 1287), a beautiful
Jewess, who, being accused of adultery, was thrown over the precipice of
the Orajera (p. 120), but called upon the Virgin and alighted unhurt.
Several of the other chnrches of Segovia are also interesting.
San MiUan is a Romanesque structure of the 12t]i cent., with barrel
vaulting and three parallel semicircular apses. Along the outside
of the N. and S. walls run curious open cloisters or arcades in the
late-Romanesque style. — The church of 5an Martm (PI. 14; 0, 2),
which is similar in plan , and the JgUsia del Corpus Christie which
was originally a synagogue and has a Moorish ceiling, are hoth in
the Galle Real, in the S.E. part of the town. — San Juan (Pi. 13 ;
G, 2) should he visited for its interesting monuments. — San An-
dri${PLi1\By2\ totheN.W. of the cathedral^ Is another Roman-
esque structure of the 12th cent., but it has heen partly modernized .
— The Roi%»nesque church of San EsUban^ to the N. of the town,
opposite the Episcopal Palace, is notable for the beautiful open arcade
or cloister running round its N., W., and S. sides. The openings in
the lofty ♦Tower (13th cent.) are alternately round-arched, and point-
ed. The interior is uninteresting.
The former convent of Santa Oriis, not far from San Est^ban,
has a rich Qothio portal, with reliefs of the Crucifixion and the
Pietii. Here also are figures of Ferdinand and Isabella, the founders
of the convent, whose motto ^tanio monta' (p. 171) appears both
outside and inside the church.
The Museo Provincial, in the secularized church of San Facundo,
is insignificant.
Among the most notable private mansions are the Casa de Se-
'goviaj in the Calle de los Leones, belonging to the Marques del Arco j
the Casa de los Picos , belonging to the Marques de Quintaner and
so called because of the 'facets' into which its stones are carved ; and
the Fabrica de la Moneda (PI. A, B, 1), to the N.E., on the bank of
the Eresma, which was founded by Alfonso VII., restored by Henry IV.,
^nd used as the royal mint of Spain down to 1730.
The *Alc&zar (PI. A, 1, 2), built by Alfonso VI., the sovereign
of the Old, partly in imitation of the Moorish castle at Toledo, is an
excellent example of an old Gastilian castle. In its present form
it dates substantially from 1352-58, though the interior has been
largely restored since a fire in 1862. The most conspicuous features
Are the two huge towers : the Torre delHomenaje^ with its numerous
bartizans (cubos), and the Torre de Juan Segundo, The walls are di-
apered in plaster. Isabella the Gathollc was here proclaimed Queen
of Castile in 1474. The Alcazar successfully resisted the Comuneros
120 Roxae9. SEGOVIA.
in 1520; and Charles V. and Philip II. showed their satisfaction by
fitting oat the Sola del TronOj the 8ala del Recibimento , and other
rooms -with great magnificence. In the so-called PUza del Corddn
Alfonso the Learned was on the point of discovering that it was the
earth that moved round the sun and not vice versa, when a sudden
flash of lightning deterred him from such heretical speculations. In
memory of this warning he had the rope (cord6n) of St. Francis
carved round the frieze. It was in the Alcazar that Gil Bias was
confined on the eve of his marriage (xx. 3,4).
Wales. Good views of the Alcazar are obtained from the Eresma,
to which we descend through the Puefta Coiiellana, and from the
(1/2M.) Santuario de FuencUla (PI. A, 1 ; fons stillarui) or church of
the Virgen de Fuencisla, built in honour of the miraculous rescue
of Maria del Salto (p. 119). Above the church towers the Pena Ora-
jera ('crows' cliff), from which criminals used to be precipitated. —
A little farther up the river, on a height on the right bank of the
£resma, lies the Romanesque church of *Vera Cruz (Pl. A, 1), a
twelve-sided structure erected by the Templars in 1208 in imitation
of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem. It4ias a square
tower and three parallel semicircular apses, while the nave forms a
kind of vaulted ambulatory round a small, two-storied central cham-
ber. — Still farther up , nearly opposite the Fabrica de la Moneda
(p. 119), is the suppressed Monasterio del Parral (PI. B, 1 ; 'vine
arbour') , with a church built by Juan Gallego in 1494 (numerous
old monuments) and some slight remains of the Gothic cloisters.
The well-kept gardens of this famous Hieronymite convent gave
rise to the saying : 'Lew Hyertas del Parral, Paraiso terrenaV ('the
gardens of Parral, an earthly Paradise'). — A pretty Alameda leads
from the Parral up the Eresma to the church of Santa Ana (PI. C, 1).
Other favourite promenades are the 8al6n de hahel Segunda (PI. B,
C, 2), on the S. side of the town, between the Puerta del Sol and the
Paeria de la Lunay and the PaaSo Nuevo, on the Clamores. — Th^
Calvario commands a fine survey of the old walls and the S. part of
the city.
The road (omnibus, see p. 117) from Segovia to (7 M.) San llde-
fonso (and La Oranja") leads through a level plain past the (5 M.)
royal domain of Quita Pesares ('sans souci'). Fine views are enjoyed
of the Sierra.
San IldefonBO and La Oranja. — Hotels. *Hot£l Eoropa ; Hot.
DR Pabis ^ Fonda de Embajadobes. In the height of summer the charges
9,re high, and rooms should be ordered in advance. — Lodgings may be
obtained in the village.
La Granja repays a visit by its picturesque situation and by its foun-
tains, which ftre probably the finest in Europe. These play Ccorren')
only on high festivals (Jan. 23rd, Hay SOth. July 24th, Aug. 26th, and
Sept. 11th and 24th) and never all at once. The climate, which is Alpine
in character, is very refreshing in summer.
>r<j .'^.^•-Jid -4-.- ■■ -
l"^"h'-7-.
LA GRAMJA. 9. Routt. 121
San lldeftmto (3905 ft.), a village lying amid t]ie Guadarrama
Mts., at the foot of the huge Penalara (p. 122), was founded by King
Henry lY., who in 1450 built here a shooting- lodge and an Ermita
de San lldefon8o(F\, B, 3), afterwards (1477) presented by the 'Cath-
olie Kings' to the monastery of Parral (p. 120). The village of 8an
lldefonso and a 'granja' (grange, farm) of the Hieronymite monks
soon sprang up near the hermitage. After the destruction of Valsain
by lire (see p. 122) PhiUp V. purchased La Granja (1719) and
began to constmet here a ch&teau and gardens in the French style.
As the Eseorial reflects the character of Philip II., so La Granja
reflects that of Philip V., who died in 1746 soon after flnishing
the gardens. The first of the Bourbons could never forget 'la belle
France*, and the creation of a Versailles in this mountain-solitude
appealed at once to his melancholy disposition and his love for his
native land. His successors also found La Granja to their taste.
Charles III. established here a weaving factory (la Calandria) and
his famous glass-works (Fdbriea de Critialea)^ the first of which is
extinct, while the other is now in private hands. — La Granja has
been the scene of not a few political events of some importance. In
1724 Philip y. here resigned the crown, which he resumed after the
death of his son. Here , in 1783 , Charles III. received the Comte
d'Artois, afterwards Charles X., on his way to the siege of Gibraltar.
In 1796 Godoy (p. 124) here signed the treaty which handed Spain
over to France. In 1832 Ferdinand YII. summoned Don Carlos to
La Granja as the acknowledged heir to the throne. On hearing
this news, however, the Princess Louisa Charlotte, sister of Queen
Christina, hurried from Puerto de Santa Maria to.La Granja, and
succeeded in persuading the feeble king to name his infant daughter
Isabella as his successor. The result of this change of mind was the
civil wars which afterwards devastated Spain. Here, in 1836, the
Queen Regent Christina was compelled by a military 'prouuucia-
raento' to accept the Constitution of Cadiz.
The Palaeio BeU (PI. C, 3), built in 1721-23 by Theodore Ar-
temans from designs by the Italians Juvara and Sacchettij consists of
a main building, adjoined by the collegiate church, and of two
wings. The principal facade looks towards the garden. The royal
apartments in the main building still retain their 18th cent, magni-
ficence (attendant 1-2 p.).
The Colegiata (PI. C, 3), . built in 1724 et seq. , is elaborately
adorned with frescoes by Bayeu and Ataelia. The baroque high-altar
was designed by Arlemans and embellished with marble sculptures
by SoUmena of Naples. The PanUon, or chapel to the W. of the
high-altar (entr. through the sacristy), contains the tombs of Philip V.
and his wife Isabella Famese, by Pitw and Dumcmdri, In the Sala
Capitular are a 'custodia' of lapis lazuli, the staflf (hdcido) of St. Eli-
zabeth, and other relics.
122 Route 9. LA GRANJA.
The Oardens were laid ont by Boutelel and flalshed in 1743 at
immense cost, owing to the rocks that had to l)e remoyed and the
earth that had to be supplied. They are divided into the Jardinea
Alios and Jar dines Bajos; adjoining the palace is the Parterre j with
the Cascada Nueva (PI. 0, 4). The gardens are plentifully irrigated
with the water of the artificial lake known as El Mar (PI. C, 6),
which lies 4095 ft. above the sea and furnishes pressure enough for
the fountains to play without the aid of pumping engines.
In spite of much that is antiquated and baroque in their designs
and ornamentation, the ♦♦Fountains afford a very imposing
spectacle, and are vastly superior to those of Versailles. They were
mainly made by Elizabeth Farnese, the wife of Philip V., in 1727,
while the king himself was absent on a long journey. On his return
he is said to have remarked, as he gazed at the 'fianos de Diana' :
'it has cost me three millions and has amused me three minutes'. —
In addition to the waterfall named the Cascada del Cenador(?h C, 4),
there are 26 fountains proper, in devising which the fancy of Du-
mandri, Procaccmi, and Sani has run riot. The most important are
the JSoluSj the Carrera de CabaUos or Triumph of Neptune (PI. 0, 4),
and the Apollo and the Python, In the group of PerseuSj Andromeda^
and the Dragon (PI. 0, 6) the last sends up a jet to a height of 110 ft.
The Fuente del CanastiUo (PI. B, 5) represents a 'basket' of fruit and
flowers, with 40 jets, one of which is 66 ft. high. The jet of the
Fama (PI. B, 3) reaches a height of 126 ft. and is visible at Segovia.
The Banos de Diana form a complicated maze of statues, groups, and
sprays of water. — On the E. side of the gardens is a Laherinto or
Maze (PI. D, 4, 5). A special 'papeleta' is required for admission to
the Jardines Reservados and El Potosf, or vegetable garden.
EzcuBsxoifs. In the valley of the Losoya^ on the S. side of the Gua-
darrama Mts., 6 M« from La Granja, lies the suppressed Carthusian con-
vent of El Taular , part of which has been converted into glass-works.
It is reached via the Puerto de Reventon , a mountain-pass to the right
(S.E.) of the towering Penalara, which may be asoended either from this
point or (better") from the Lozoya valley (see below). The Monastery
Church, built in 1433 40 by 'Abderrahm&n, a Moor of Segovia, stUl contains
some interesting altars and tombs, as well as paintings by Palomino, etc.
From El Paular we may visit the works of the Madrid Water Conduit
(p. 93) and the beautiful Valley of the lozoya, which, with its sombre
granite hills, its thick and gloomy forests of coniferous trees, its poplars,
willows, alders, and even birches, and its red-tiled villages, seems to belong
rather to the N» than to the 8. of Europe. — The Pico de PeSalara
(8690 ft.) rises over the Pinar de Segovia , to the 8. W. of Paular. We
first ascend through the rocky and well-wooded gorge of the Lozoya, and
then proceed across moor-like Alpine pastures and through bashes of
Saroihamn* purgane, a kind of broom. Farther on we ascend to the right
towards the cone, at the foot of which lies the Loffvna de P^alara^ the
source of the Lozoya. The last part of the climb is over a fatiguing slope
of debris. The summit commands an unimpeded view of Old and New
Castile. To the W. rises the Cabeta de Hierro Chead of iron').
Beyond La Granja the road goes on to (2 M.) Valscdn ( ValUs
sa'pinorum)^ an old and entirely neglected hunting-ch&teau, which
was built by Philip II. and burned under Charles II. (see p. 121).
ABANJU£Z. 9. Route, 123
It forms the centre of the Pinar de VaUainy an extensive royal forest
At the Venta de los MoiquUoa the ascent becomes steeper; the road,
often impassable in winter on account of the snow-drifts, wiuds up
the Monte de la Maliciosay through fine pine*woods, to the Puerto
de Navaeerrada (6040 ft.), marked by a boundary-column. A little
to the left is the village of the same name. Hence the road descends
the S. side of the Guadarrama Mts. to (7^2 M.) Ckiadarrama (p. 52)
and (6 M.) Efcorial (p. 108).
e. Aranjate.
mh M. EAU.WAT in 1-2 hn. (6 traina daily; fares & p. 65, i p. iO,
3 p. 70 c). Retarn-tiekets, availabU for two days, are issued in summer
(fares 8, 6, i p.). Departure from the E$taei&n del Medtodta (p. 68).
From Madrid to (30Vs ^0 Aranjuit, see pp. 275, 276.
Araigute. «- The Sailway SUtion (PI. B, 3) is about 860 yds. to
the S.W. of the palace and about >/s H . from the hotels. Omnibutu and
other vehicles meet the trains.
Hotels. *HoT. DK Pa8t<$b (PI. a; D, 2), unpretending, pens. 6-10 p., omn.
50 c.i Hot. i>x EKBAJAndaKS (PI. b; D, 9), similar charges.
damage and pair 2Vtp. per drjive, i p. perhr.. eaeE addit. hr. S'/tp.
Quides, for i-0 hrs., 4-5 p. — A gratuity of 1-2 p. is given to the
Conterje at the Palace and at the Casa del Labraddr (where very little
time is allowed to view the objects of interest). — A J)trmti (PaptUta)
allowing six persons to visit the palace and the royal gardens (except in
wet weather) may be obtained at the hotels or from the ^Administrador
del Real Patrimonio\ in the Cata del Infante (PI. 8: D, 8), Plaza de la
Libertad (9.90-2).
IKstzibntion of Tinae. Aranju^z may be Mone* in 3-4 hrs., but the
beautiful gardens, especially in spring, tempt to a longer sojourn. The best
plan is to begin by walking through the Calle de la Reina to the (3asa
del Labraddr (}/t hr.); there spend 1/4 kr. in seeing the small ch&teau i walk
back to the suspension-bridge (>/4 b^.)*, and visit the Parterre, the Jardin
de la Isia, and the Palace (IVs kr.).
Aranju£% (1515 ft) is a royal chateau (sitio redl) in the plain of
the Tagia and Jarama, which unite a little to the W. and water the
great royal demesne (real pcUrimorUo ; 47,600 acres in extent). To the
S.E. of the chitean lies the uninteresting little town (8200 inhab.),
which is regularly built and laid out, at the suggestion of the Marques
Giimaldi, Spanish ambassador at The Hague, in the Dutch style.
Aranjudz owes its origin to a rapid in the Tagus, forming a kind of
natural weir (presa) and afterwards artificially improved, which rendered
the irrigation of the adjoining plain a comparatively easy matter. In
the middle ages it belonged to the Order of Santiago and contained a
conventual palace, built in 1337 by the Grand Matter Suarez de Figutrda^
which was known as Aranzwl or Aransueje. Afterwards, under the name
of /«7a, it was a favourite summer-residence of Isabella the Catholic.
Charles V. built a shooting-box here, which Philip II. enlarged with the
aid of Juan Bautista de Toledo and Juan de Herrera. The same king
created the place a royal ^residence" and beautified its grounds by the
introduction of the English elm (Ulmus nigra), hitherto unlmown in Spain.
The ch&teau was almost wholly destroyed by fire in 1660 and 1(166, but
Philip V. caused it to be rebuilt by Pedro Caro in the Louis Quatoree
style (I79f7). It was restored by Ferdinand VI. after a third fire in 1748,
and the two large wings were added by Charles III. in 1776-78. — At
124 Route 9. ARANJU^Z.
Aranjn^z, on Mar. 19th, 1808, Godoy, the 'Principe de la Paz', the all-
powerful minister of Charles IV., and the king himself were compelled
to resign by a rising under the leadership of Count Montijo. — Since then
Aranjn^z has been left more and more to itself, and neither palaces nor
gardens are kej[)t up with such care as might be looked for. ^Die schonen
Tage in Aranju^z sind nun zu Ende\ Perhaps, however, there is no
place in the S. of Europe so rich in elms, plane-trees, and nightingales.
In mid-summer the heat, attaining a maximum of 115* Fahr., is often in-
tolerable. The climate is then considered very unhealthy, and the resi-
dents suflfer from malarial fever.
The central point of Aranjutfz is the Plaza db la Libebtad
(PI. D, 3), with the church oi San Antonio (PI. 2), the Fuente de
Diaria or de las Cadenaa, and the small Jardin de Isabel Segunda.
To the N. this plaza is adjoined by the parterre-garden of the palace,
to the W. of which rises the palace itself, .flanked by a colonnade
(correddr) erected by Godoy (see aboye).
The Palacio Beal (PI. 0, 2, 3) deserves a visit. The handsome
Staircase is adorned with busts of Philip V. and Louis XIV, The
various rooms- contain pictures by Conrado Bayeu (History of the
Prodigal Son, etc.), Raphael Mengs, Bosco, Amiconij and Hierony^
mus Bosch, In the Oratory are an ivory crucifix, an Annunciation
ascribed to Titian (?), and a modern Roman mosaic presented by
Pius IX. to Isabella II. The *Oahinet€ de China, the corner-room
above the weir on the Tagus, is a creation of-Charles III. and Giu-
seppe Qricci (^1763). Its walls are covered with porcelain-tiles from
the factory of Buen Retiro (p. 85), showing scenes in the Japanese
style. The large mirrors, with their frames of fruit and flowers,
were made at La Granja (p. 121). The chandelier, all in one piece,
represents monkeys and parrots quarrelling over fruit. The ceiling of
the Smoking Room is an accurate copy of that of the Sala de las Dos
Hermanas in the Alhambra (p. 361). The Antecdmara contains 'El
Ultimo Suspire del Moro' (p. 336), an attractive painting by Espaltir.
In the Dining Room are scenes from the life of Joseph. — The
windows afford fine views of the Isla garden and the Tagus weir.
The Parterre Oarden (PI. C, D, 2, 3), like the Jardin de las
Estdtuas to the S. of the palace, is laid out in the French style,
with beds of roses, fantasies in box, modern statues and busts of
Roman emperors and empresses, and some fine marble vases and
fountains. At its W. end is the Fuente de Hercules, with its two
pillars, one inscribed 'plus' and the other *ultra', and reliefs of the
labours of Hercules.
The path to the left of .the Tagus weir leads across the Ria, an
overflow channel of the river, to the * Jardin de la Isla (PI. B, C,
1, 2), the chief garden of Aranjuez, laid out by Philip II.' and the
scene of Schiller's *Don Carlos'. The finest feature is the Saldn de
los Reyes Catdlicos, a superb avenue of spreading plane-trees skirting
the murmuring river. Bending to the left at the end of this avenue,
we proceed through the CaUe de Alhambra to the Fountain of
Bacchus. Another turn to the left brings us to the Fountain of
ARANJUlfiZ. 9.R0UU, 125
Neptune. Lastly, we follow the Calle dt Boabdil to the Jardin de la
IsUta (PI. B, 2), at the W. end of the garden, at the point where the
aboye-mentioned canal rejoins the T«giis. To the S.W. rises the
railway-hridge.
We may now return to the palace along the Ria, near which, in the
garden to the left, are the Water Ca$ile, theFuente de laDoncellay etc.
In front of the palace the Sal6n de los Reyes Gat61icoB is joined by Los
Burladdrea Qihe tricksters'), a walk with ^surprize' water-works. Near
the palace are the Cateada de la Ria and seTcral marble fountains.
To the N.E. of the Parterre Garden the Tagns is spanned by the
Puente Colgaate (PI. D, 2), a suspension-bridge adorned with four
statues and four yases. The road beyond it leads straight to Madrid.
Fine view from the right bank of the weir and the palace.
We now proceed to the E., on the left bank of the Tagus,
through the * CaUe de la Reina (PL D, E, F, 2), a magnificent
avenue of planes and elms, which skirts the Jardin del Principe and
is prolonged for 3 M. up the valley of the Tagus. (A view of it is
given by Velazquez in his painting at the Prado, No. 1110, p. 76.")
To the left we have fine views of the Jardin del Principe, with its
gigantic plane-trees ; to the right are the sunburnt heights of the
Polvorin, so called from a powder-mill that once stood here. In
about V2 ^^- ^® reach (left) the JEntrada dt la Casa del Labraddr^
a handsome gate with two columns.
The Cata del Labradbr (open 10-6 ; conserje in the right wing),
which is as much of a 'labourer's cottage' as the Trianon at Ver-
sailles, was built by Charles IV. and bears the inscription : 4iei-
nando Carlos IV. afio de 1803'. It consists of « central structure
and two wings. In front of the main facade is a Fuente (fountain),
with the three figures of 8ed, Envidiaj ' and Hambre (Thirst, Envy,
and Hunger).
The Interior is elaborately decorated and contains all manner of objeit
de luxe. The ceiling-paintings are by Zacariat Velazquez^ Lopez^ Maella^
and other artists. A handsome staircase ascends to the 18 rooms of the
first floor. The ceiling of Room I represents ApoUo and the Muses.
Rook II (to the left) contains some beautiful vases \ Boom UI has fine
silk hangings j in Boom IV are birds, carved in wood. — The Scdlptukk
Gallsbt (Y) contains ^ busts of Ghreek philosophers from Ifaples ; mosaics
from tha Boman theatre at M^rida (p. 456) ; a ceiling-painting representing
Trade, Agriculture, etc.; and a large musical box (in the middle). The
BiLLiABD Boom (VI), the ceiling of which depicts the Four Elements,
contains a billiard-table, finely inlaid oues^ silken hangings, a magnificent
clock, and a chandelier. — We tow return and pass to the right into the
Sala ds Mabia Luisa (VII), with several clocks and vases and a crystal
chandelier. — The Ball Booh {Salon de Bdile; VIII) contains a large
musical box, while musical boxes are also concealed in the chandeliers
and other objects. The walls are embellished with views of the Escorial.
The malachite table and chair were presented by Prince Demidoff. —
In Boom IX are views of Spanish chateaux. — In Boom X the cornice
and the frames of the door and windows are of marble. — Room XI has
a fine clock and porcelain vases. — Boom XII has views of Roman churches.
Boom XIII has views of the fountains of La Granja, a clock in the fo'
of a lyre, and several mirrors. — The *Gabimets de Platina (XIV)
126 Route 9. TOLEDO. BoUls.
pftuelled walls inlaid with gold and platinum, tIows of the Seasons, and
large chandeliers. — On a table in Room XV (Privy Closet) stands am
ivory bird, carved vfith astounding delicacy. The floor is in marble
mosaic. — Boon XVI has a musical box and views of La Granja. — Wo
now refcum to the ball-room and proceed to the right to Boom XVIII,
with views of Araiguez. — We then descend to the groundfloor. At tlie
top of the Back Staiboase Zac. Velazquee has painted a balcony, over
which lean his wife and children.
We return to the town by the Jardin del Principe (Vh F, E, 1, 2),
which is bounded on the N. by the rapid-flowing Tagus and extends
from the Oasa del Labrador to the suspension-bridge, a distance of
about 11/2 M. It contains little of interest except its large trees
and a few fountains with statuary (^Fuente de ApolOy etc.). Its name
is due to the fact that Charles lY. laid it out when Prince of Astu-
rias. To the N.E. lies the Fiorera (PL D, 1) or Jardin Ingles, a
flower-garden with greenhouses, laid out by Richard WaW, a native
of Ireland.
Those who have time at their disposal may take a pleasant walk to
the BDraddr de Oristina (1840 ft.), about 1 M. from the market-place. From
the Plaza de la Libertad we go to the £. to the Plaza de Abastos (PI. D,
E, 3), whence we proceed to the S,, past the Convento de San Patcual (PI.
£, 4), founded in 1765, the church of which contains a good altar-piece
(St. Paschal) by Baphael Mengs. To the right is the Flaza de Toroe (PI.
D, 4), We finally ascend to the right by the Camino de las Rocas. To
the N. the extensive view embraces the plain of the Tagus and Aranjuez*,
to the S.B. are the Mar de OnUgolnu the lake whence Aranjuez procures
its supply of drinking-water, and the bleak and barren hills which skirt
the oasis of the river; farther off in the same direction lies Ocana. —
Visitors interested in borses should visit the Oaballerizae ReeOes (Pi. 1 ; C,
D, 8) and one or other of the Royal Stttde (Gasa de Honta, Yeguadas),
which lie in the domains of SotomayoTy to the E. of the village, and
LegamareJOy to the W. of it (orders of admission obtained from the Ad-
ministrador, p. 123). Cream-coloured Andalusian horses, mules, etc., are
bred here, but the rearing of camels and llamas has been given up. — The
ViUae to the S.E. of the rail, station contain little of moment. — The
Yiage Bodegae or wine-cellars, built by Charles III. in I'TSS, are interesting-,
but the wine of Aranjuez is very second-rate.
d. Toledo.
Approaches. To visit Toledo from Madrid travellers may take the
Ciudad Real Railway (B. 4^ as far as Algodor^ whence a branch-line runs
to Toledo (in all 47V2 M. j two trains daily in 3 hrs.-, fares 8 p. 80, 6 p. 65,
4 p. 40 c). In summer return-tickets, available for two days, are issued.
There is a through-carriage for first-class passengers. — The excursion
may be combined with that to Aranjuez by following the Seville Railway
(R. 29) to CastiUeJOy whence a branch-line runs to Algodor (see above ^
62 M. in all ; two trains daily in 3-4 hrs. \ fares 10 p. 40, 8 p. 10, 4 p. 95 c).
Carriages are changed at Castillejo. The connections on this route are
rather unfavourable, especially for travellers coming from the S. — Trav-
ellers from Portugal, by the line from Valencia de AlcSntara to Madrid
(R. 47), leave the railway at VUlamiel (p. 445), where, coaches meet the
trains to convey passengers to (9 M.) Toledo (fare 2 p.).
Hallway Station (PI. F, 3), to the N.E. of the city, beyond the Tagus.
Hotel Omnibuses (fare, incl. luggage, 1-1 1/2 p.; bargain desirable) and the
Omnibus Oenerdles meet the trains. — The Despach9 Central (comp. p. zvi)
is in the Calle del Comercio, adjoining the Zocodov^r (PI. E, 4).
Hotels (bargaining necessary j comp. p. xx). Hotel Castilla (PI. a^
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Carriages. TOLEDO. 9, Rovte. 127
E, 3). la the sjuftU PUza San Agustin, immediately to the 'S.W, of the
Zocoaovtfr, flnt-class, pens, from 12V2, B. 1 p. — Fonda db Lino (PI. b \
D, 4), Calle de la Plata ^ Fonda IxpssiiL (PI. c^ £, 4), Gaesta del Al<^4B*r,
near the ZoeodoTfo, well fpoken of j Fonda dkl Kohts (PI. dt B, 4),
opposite the last; these three very primitive, pens, from 6 p- — In Holy
week (Semana Shmia) the hotels are crowded and their prices raised.
Oatts (comp. p. zxii). C<nfi BvImo^ Cafi Imperial^ both in the Zocodov^r,
OeBfeetioaen (Go^/iter(a»). Bobrin^s p Sueetoru de Civriemo Labrador ^
Plasaela de Magdalena*, Bijo de F$ret Hemdndez. Galle de las Tendillas^
Jutm Martin Burridt Gslle de la Obra Prima. — The marchpane Cmorapdn;
of Toledo is eelebrated. It is made up in all sorts of forms, snoh as the
JamtmeUoe -('little hams'), while at Christmas it is told in ctgutnaldo*^ or
prettily decorated boxes, containing figures of saints, fish, serpents, horses,
and so on. Cvernos are a kind of wheaten rolls, in the form of two ears
laid one iUK>ve the other*, moUetat and panedlloe are circalar rolls.
Sookshop, Menar SermemM. Calle del Comercio 57. — Photographs:
ASguacU, PlaauAa de Coatro CallesTPi. D, 4).
Shops, almost all in the Calle del Comercio. AltateSy In the Plastttfla
de Caatro Cal]es(8ee aboye), sells the line swords, daggers, and damascened
wares made at the Weapon Factory (p. 147). Similar wares may be bought
from Marimo Cfenrido y Mermano, opposite Santa Maria la Blanoa (p. 148).
Post ft Telegraph Offlee (Oorreo y TeUffr^fo; PI. C, 6), Calle de Al-
fonso Doce.
Theatres. Teatro de Bojae (PI. D, E, 4), Plaza Mayor) Teatro de Fsro/io
(sommer-theatre), on the Miradero. — Ball Bing {JPlata de Twoe; PI. D. 1),
in theCarretera de Madrid, to the X. of the city^ 'corridas' in September.
Oarriacea to hold 3-4 pers. may be hired at the hotels or in the Despacho
Central for 10-12 p. per day. They may be used for drives round the
city-walls on the si. and along the Tagus towards the E. ; for visits to
the Hospital San Juan Baatisia (p. 143), the Paente de San Martin (p. 148),
and the Vega to the £. and W. of the city \ and, finally, for a drive from
the Puente San Martin along the heights to the S. of the city (p. 161) to
the Puente de Alcintara.
Onidea, useful where time is limited, should be hired at the hotels only
(fee 5-7Vs p. per day). In the streets the stranger is pestered in the most
intolerable manner by beggars, children, and would-be guides (comp. d. xziv).
FeatlTala. /a». a2nd is the feast of San Udefonso, one of the tutelars
af the city. The ceremonies of Holy Week are observed here with great
elaboration. On April 90th is held the Romeria at the Ermita Kuestra
Senora de la Cabeaa (p. 151), and on May let that of the iBrmita de la
Virgen del Valle (p. IM). Annual Fair, Avg, 16th-23nd.
OUtf Atfaraetiona (li/s day). 1st Day; morning, •Cathedral (p. 180)
and JJk4t€W (p. 150); afternoon, facade of the ffaepHai de SaiUa Onu (p. 141),
ISiente de Aledtiiara (p. 142), Ptierta del Sol (p. 142), Pane de Madrid
(p. 143) , and Crielo de la Lus (n, 148). — 2nd Day : morning, Smnto Twni
(p. 146), chureh and cloisters of 8cm Jwm de loe Reyu (pp. 145, 146), Fuente
de San MarHn (p. 148), Santa Maria la Blanea (p. 148), and Binagoya del
Traneito (p. 149).
Toledo (1735 ft.), the Roman ToUlum, known to the Jews as
ToUdotk and to ike *^ . js. as ToUitola^ is one of the most auoient
and famous cities ' c <''*n and perhaps of Semitic origin. The
etymology of its naiL. - difHoalt of explanation; it may be from
the same root as the Hebrew TkcU, a roi^ky height, and the Arabic
Atalayay a watch-tower. Livy mentions it as ^a small town, but
strong on account of its situation'. The prstor Marcus Fulvius No-
biiior captured it in B. G. 192. The city lies on a swelling granite
hill in the form of a horseshoe, cut out, as it were, by the deep gorge
of the Tagus from the mass of mountains to the S. On the N. it is
1 28 Route 9. TOLEDO. SHxiation,
connected with the great plain of Castile by a narrow isthmus. At
all other points the sides of the rocky eminence are steep and Inac-
cessible. At its base, to the N.E., N., and W., lies the fertile Vega,
or plain of the Tagus (Tajo); on the E. and S. is the rocky ravine
which gives name to the river (tajo = cut, incision) and through
which roars the flsh-abounding stream ('piscosus Tagus'), driving a
number of Moorish water-mills. To the S. of the river, in a vast
amphitheatre, rise the rocky summits of the Monies de Toledo,
enlivened here and there with a few olive-groves and ^cigarrdles*
(small summer- villas). The stamp of the landscape is that of a
sunburnt Oriental desert. The character of the city is also entirely
Oriental. Its narrow crooked streets spread themselves like a net
over the uneven rocky plateau, without ever expanding into open
squares or affording any distant vistas. The tall houses are almost
windowless on the side next the street, and reserve all their cheer-
fulness for the interior pdtio or court — in this way affording as
much shelter as possible from the icy winds of winter and the mer-
ciless glare of the summer sun. Each house has its own drain (buz6n)
and a vestibule (zagudn). Huge gates, often studded with great iron
bosses, protect the entrance, forming a striking contrast to the open
doors and free glimpses of the patio enjoyed in the gay city of Se-
ville. Everything here has the character 'of a convent, a prison, or
a fortress, to some extent also of a seraglio' (Oautier). There is
scarcely another city in Europe of so sombre a character. But from
the edges of the plateau the gaze wanders far over the valley of the
Tagus and on the N.W. is bounded only by the remote Sierra de Gredos.
'The situation is, indeed, most wild and striking. The Tagus, wind-
ing almost all round the city, confines it much in the fashion In which
the Wear surrounds Durham. But here the town is far larger, the river
banks are more rocky, precipitous, and wild than at Durham ; whilst the
space enclosed within them is a confused heap of rough and uneven
ground, well covered with houses, churches, and monasteries, and inter-
sected everywhere by narrow, Eastern , and Moorish-looking streets and
alleys, most of which afford no passage-room for any kind of carriage,
and but scanty room for foot-passengers. It is, consequently, without ex-
ception, the most difficult city to find one's way in that I have ever seen,
and the only one in which I have ever found myself obliged to confess a
commissionaire or guide of some sort to be an absolute necessity, if one
would not waste half one's time in trying to find the way from one place
to another". (^Gothic Architecture in Spain\ by 0. E. Street.)
Toledo is, perhaps, the most Arabian city in Spain. Even after its
capture by Alfonso VI, in 1085 its general character remained un-
changed, and the Moorish type of architecture . was adhered to for
four centuries more. In the middle of the 16th cent, most of the
cities of Spain underwent a process of expansion and modernization ;
Toledo, however, was arrested in its development by the removal of
the capital to Valladolid and afterwards to Madrid, and became
practically the corpse of a city. It is an ancient Hispano-Moresoo
Pompeii, with traces of the Roman and the Goth, the whole dominat-
ed by the imposing Christian monuments of the Castilian period. It
HiBtoty. TOLEDO. 9. Boutt, 129
has been well described by Wonnann as ^a gigantic open-air mu-
seum of the architectural history of Early Spain, arranged upon a
lofty and conspicuous table of rock'.
'Few cities that I have ever aeen can compete in artistic interest with
it^ and none perhaps come up to it in the singular magnificence of its
situation, and the endless novelty aud picturesqueness of its every corner.
It epitomises the whole strange history of Spain in a manner so vivid,
that he who visits its old nooks and comers carefully and thoughtfully,
can work out, almost unassisted, the strange variety which that history
affords. For here Romans, Visigoths. Saracens, and again Christians
have in turn held sway, and here all nave left tneir mark •, here, more-
over, the Christians, gince the thirteenth century, have shown two oppo-
site examples, — one of toleration of Jews and Moors, which it would be
hard to find a parallel for among ourselves, and the other of intolerance,
such as has no paraOel out of Spain elsewhere in Europe" (Strut).
Toledo was the ecclesiastical, political, and intellectual centre of
the Spain of the vanished past. It was the seat of the Primate of
All Spain, as, indeed, it still is. From the year 400 onwards it was
the meeting-place of numerous church-councils. It was the focus of
the bold though unavailing attempt of the Comun^ros (p. 63) to
assert the federal principle against the centralising tendency of a
universal Spanish monarchy. And yet it was the victory of the cen-
tral Madrid that brought about the downfall of the Spanish throne.
it was here that Lope de Vega (p. 107) lived and wrote those immortal
dramas, some of which, such as 'King Wamba*, 'Over the Bridge',
and ' Juana'f have their miae en tc^ne at Toledo. Here Moreto (1618-
69} died, and here Francisco Rojas was bom in 1607. The Zocodover
has been immortalized by Cervantes in his ^Novelas EjemplaTe8\
The only vestiges of the Roman period are a few remains of the
Amphitheatre in the N. suburb of Oovachuelas, and of the Circus
Manimus and other buildings in the Vega Baja, to the N.W. of the
city. Toledo became the capital of the Visigoths in 567 (comp. p. 198)
and still retains the city-walls of King Wamba (673). All else in
the city, except the Christian churches , bears a distinctly Moorish
impress : — the Visagra Antigua and the Puerta del Sol, the founda-
tions of the Alcazar, the Jewish synagogues, and a large number of
private houses.
The cathedral and other great monuments of Christianity are
models of the Gothic style and many of them are perfect museums
of art. The churches, convents, colleges, and hospitals once occupied
more than half of the city ; but many of them are now in ruins or
* have been converted to secular uses.
The Rodrigot^ Fon$eca»^ Tenorios^ Mendozcuy Ximdnez, Taverat^ Lor en-
tancu^ and other Akghbishops of Tolkdo, Primates of Spain, many of
whom, were called tereiros reifes^ formed a veritable imperiwn in imperio.
They practically held in their hands t be whole civilisation of their times:
they built schools, hospitals, and bridges-, they led armies; they possessea
immense riches and fostered art and science. The weigbtiest events in
Spanish history are associated with the names of Archbishops of Tqledo.
The soul uf the straggle with Granada at the close of the loth cent, was
Mendoza. Cardinal Xim^nez (Cisn^ros) took the helm of Spain after the
death of the ^Catholic Kings', and could answer the grandees who enquired
Ba£Dkkek's Spain. 9
130 Route 9. TOLEDO. a. Cathedral.
into bis authority by hftaghtily pointing from his balcony in Madrid at
his army mustered in the square below. — Tbe chapter of Toledo Cathe-
dral once consisted of 168 ecclesiastics, including 14 Dignidadet, 40 Ctmd-
mgo»^ 60 RadorUro*. 60 Capelkme* de Coro, and 4 Candnigos Ettravagcmtes.
The concordat of 1861 reduced the number to 62. The archiepiscopal
establishment now numbers eight Dignidetdes: the Dedn^ Arcipreste^ Arce-
didno^ CJumtrey Mae$trescuila$^ Tetoriro, Capelldn Mapdr de Reyes^ and Capel-
Idn Maydr de Mozdrabes. Among the Minittrot Subaltemos are the Cantoi-
lanittas (choristers), MuricoSy Silenciiros (see below), Celadcres^ Lectores^
NiViot de Coro (choir-boys), and Sacrittdnee.
Toledo is said to have at one time contained 200,000 inbab.5 it
has now 17,600. It lies off the route of the great railways, and is
of importance only as the capital of a province and the seat of a few
officials and institutes. — Its climate is not considered very healthy.
a. The Cathedral and its Vicinity.
The cathedral is open all day till the Ave Maria (la Oracidn)^ but the
numerous masses often interfere with the visitor''s inspection, especially
of the altars and choir. Quiet is somewhat rigorously enforced by a spe-
cial set of officials named Sileneiiroe or Siknddrios^ popularly known
as Azotaperros or dog-beaters. The stranger asks for the SacHstan and is
then handed over from one guide to another (fee V^'^Vs P- ^chi accord-
ing to the length of the attendance). — The aspect of the cathedral is
new and characteristic at every hour of the day, but the most impressive
effect is produced a little before sundown, when tbe nave and aisles are
already dark, while the windows, painted 'a fuego', glow with wonderful
brilliancy. — The building is best entered from the Glaustro or by the
Puerta del Reldj (PI. 8), in the Calle de la Chapinerfa. Hurried visitors
should see the Gapilla Maydr (p. 133), the Coro (p. 134), the Capilla Mozarahe
(p. 138), the Chapter Room (p. 136), and the Capilla de Santiago (p. 137).
The ** Cathedral (PI. D, 5; comp. the accompanying ground-
plan), the Dives Toletana (p. 403), the chief lion of the city and the
first object of every stranger's curiosity, lies on a level site at the
foot of the ridge extending from the Alcazar to San Juan de los
Reyes. It is, unfortunately, so hemmed in by other buildings that
no free view of it can be obtained.
The site was occupied even in the Yisigothic period by a Christian
temple, dedicated, according to a still extant inscription (p. 140),
to the Virgin by King Reccared on April 12th, 687. Among the
occupants of the episcopal see in connection with it were SS. Eugen-
ius, Eladius, Ildefonso, and Julian. In 712 the Moors converted the
church into their Al-Djdmfaj or principal mosque ; and on the capture
of the town by Alfonso VI. in 1086 they were expressly allowed to
retain it for the Muslim worship. The very next year, however, at
the instigation of Archbishop Bernhard and Queen Constance , the
Christians took forcible possession of the building. St. Ferdinand
caused the old church to be torn down, and on Aug. 11th, 1227, laid
the foundation-stone of the present edifice. The process of building
went on more or less continuously from that date to Jan., 1493, a
period of more than 265 years. Among its architects are named
Pedro Perez (d. 1286), who superintended the building for more
than half- a- century ; then (after 1389) Bodrigo Alfonso and Al-
CATEDRAL DE TOLEDO
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a.Ca(kedTal, TOLEDO. 9. Route. M\
var Qomet; still later, Aimeqafn dt Egaf, Martin Sanchez j Juan Ouai
(p. 146), and Enrique de Egos. The chapels, the sacristy, the sa-
grario, and other subordinate buildings date from a still later period.
~~ The cathedral was rifled by the Gomun^ros in 1621 and by the
French, under Oen. La Houssaye, in 1808. The latter robbed the
rejas of their gilding and carried off 2600 lbs. of silver treasures.
The general style of the cathedral is the early-Gothio of N.France,
though late Gothic, Renaissance, and baroque features bear witness
to the long duration of its building, while traces of Moorish in-
fluence are not wanting. It has a nave and double aisles, and ends
on the E. in a semicircular apse with a double ambulatory. Its
total length is 400 ft., its width 196 ft. ; the nave is 100 ft. high
and 44 ft. wide; the inner aisles are 26 ft., the outer aisles 32 ft.
•evots. Its area is about the same as that of Cologne Cathedral and
somewhat larger than that of York. — The main building material
is granite (piedra berroque^)j but the external decorations and the
interior are in a kind of limestone, quarried at 0Uhuela8j near Toledo.
The ExTBUOB of the cathedral, with its diminishing aisles , its
flying buttresses (arboiantes) , its flnials fpirdmidea adomadas de
oreHerfa), its huge doors, and its fine rose-windows (roaeUmeSy elara-
boyeu), makes an impression of most imposing size. The W. facade
is flanked by two projecting *Tower8j of which that to the N. (entr.
opposite the door No. 1 in the archbishop*s palace, p. 140) has alone
been finished. This ends in a small spire, with three rows of metal
rays projecting from its sides and surmounted by a cross, a vane, and
an arrow ; it is 296 ft. in height. It was built under Archbishop
Pedro Tenorio (1380-1440) by Sodrigo Alfonso and Alvar Oomez.
Among its bells is the famous Campana Odrda^ weighing nearly two
tons and east by Alejandro OargoUo in 1763. This has been cracked
by a too violent use of the clapper (badajo)y which here rests on the
floor. The Qorda is surrounded by eight other bells, and farther up
are two more. In another stage is the itficKraea, worked by a curious
piece of mechanism and pealed continuously from the Gloria of
Maundy Thursday till the Gloria of the Saturday before Easter
(48 hrB.). At the top is the CimbaUUo or EequCon, used for sum-
moning the canons (prebendados). The summit of the tower affords
an admirable view of Toledo and its ^campifia'. — The S. tower,
which eon tains the Capilla Mozarabe (p. 136), remained unfinished
and was provided with a cupola by Jorge Manuel Theotoc6pulij son
of Domenieo Theotocopuli, the painter (p. Ixviii).
The cathedral possesses eight principal ENTBAWCfBS. On the
W. Side are three doors, leading from a *lonja' enclosed by a railing.
They are seldom open. In the centre is the Puerta del Perd^ (PI. 1 ;
p. xx»viil)5 to the S. is the Paerta de los EscribdnoB (PI. 2), used by
the notaries when they visit the cathedral to take their oaths ; to
the N. is the Puerta de la Torre (PI. 3). These all date from 1418-
60 and are admirable examples of the Gothic style. Above each of
9*
132 RmiteO, TOLEDO. a. CaihedtaL
them is a relief, that over the central door representing the gift of
the chasuble to St. Ildefonso (p. 140). Above the doors the facade
is adorned with numerons statues, a sculpture of the Last Supper
with colossal figures in niches, and a large rose-window, nearly
30 ft. in diameter. The uppermost part of the fa^de is in the
baroque style (1787). — The first door on the 8. Side of the cathedral
is the Fuerta Liana (PI. 4), or the level door, erected by Ignazxo
Hadm in the classic style in 1800 in place of the old Puerta de los
Garret6nes, and so named because it has no steps before it. At
the S. end of the transept, which is approached by a wide flight
of steps, is the superb Pub&ta db los Lbonbs (PL 6), so called
from the six shield-bearing lions. It was erected in 1460 in the
richest Gothic style by the Fleming Annequfn de Egos and or-
namented by Juan Alemdn; the upper part was added in the
18th cent, by Eugenio Jhtrango, The relief of the Assumption over
the door is also modern. The beautiful bronze doors were executed
by ViUalpando and Bvi J>ia% del Condi in 1646-60 ; the wood-carv-
ings on the inside are by Alecu and the Dutchman Diego Copin.
Above the door are a large rose-window and (inside) an organ. — r
At the W. end of the N, Side of the cathedral, adjoining the tower,
is the PuEBTA DE LA Presbntaci6n (PL 6), a good example of the
Renaissance style, constructed after 1666 by Castanida^ Hemandea^
Mantano, and other artists. Above the keystone of the arch is a
relief of the Presentation. — Farther to the E. is the Pubbta ds
Santa Catalina (PL 7), dating from the 16th century. The capital
of the middle pillar is adorned with a relief of the burial of St.
Catharine, above which is a portrait of the saint. Over the lintel is
a painting of the Annunciation by Luis de Velasco (1684). — The
Pubbta del Rbl5j (PL 8), or door at the N. end of the transept,
to which a flight of steps descends, is so named from the clock above
it It is also sometimes called the Puerta del Nino Perdido oi de la
Feriay because the annual fair begins here. It dates from the be-
ginning of the 16th cent., and its reliefs and statues have only an
historical interest. Some additions were made by Durango at the
end of the 18th century. To the left is a lofty square Tower^ built
by Alvar Gomez in 1426 and containing the two large bells of the
clock. An interesting Gothic grille of 1482 connects the Gapilla de
San Pedro, to the W. of this doorway, with the Sagrario and Och&vo
to the E. of it.
The *Intbriob of the Cathedral is unusually impressive, though
its effect is somewhat impaired, especially to those entering from the
W., by the intrusion of the coro (p. 134), The *Windowt are filled
with admirable stained glass, with scenes from the New Testament
and the hagiology, coats-of-arms, portraits, and other subjects. The
earliest (in the nave) were executed in 1418 et seq^ by the Flemish
^Maestro Yidrittd Jacob Dolfinj and by his successors Luis and Gtbs^
a, CathfdraL TOLEDO. 9. Route, 133
pdn of Uireeht (1429), Alberto de Holanda (1525), and others. The
later windows in the aisles, by Nkolds de Vergdra and his sons
Nieolds and Juan (1560), exhibit freer handling but lack the depth
of colour possessed by the more ancient ones. The masterly vaulting
is borne by piers formed of 8-16 clustered shafts, with rich capitals.
.The floor is a mosaic of black and white marble. — The outer
aisles are flanked by 22 chapels, placed between the piers of the ex-
ternal walls and enclosed by screens. — The most striking features
of the fine Tratuepig are the great rose-windows and the triforium
with niches and statues running round the walls. — Below the
cathedral is an immense QrfQ^I, with 88 massive piers corresponding
to those in the ehurch above.
We begin our detailed inspection of the church at the •Oa-
rtLLA ICatob, which originally occupied only the first bay to the E.
of the crossing, but afterwards took in the second also, i.e. the former
Capilla de los Reyes Vi^jos. Card. Xlmtfnez removed this chapel (see
below), without disturbing the coffins of the kings and archbishops
hurled below it, and in 1498-1504 built the present capilla may6r,
with its huge retablo and royal monuments. The groining, the
arches, and the upper part of the piers are painted in blue and gold ;
the walls and piers are profusely adorned with statues, columns, can-
opies, angels with musical instruments, gilded foliage, and fantastic
creations of various kinds. Above runs a triforium with horseshoe
arches and columns, and over this are circular windows with stained
glass. The floor is a mosaic of red and white marble. The ca-
pilla may6r is separated from the transept (whence three steps
ascend) by a magnificent plateresque ♦Reja, executed by Francisco
VUlaJpdndo and completed in 1548. It is divided by four columns
into five parts, adorned with ornamentation in relief, and is surmount-
ed by candelabra, escutcheons, and a colossal crucifixion. The reja is
made of a mixture of iron, copper, and brass, and was once wholly
gilded and silvered. Among the statues in this chapel is one (to
the left) of Martin Alhaga or Malo^ the Shepherd of Las Navas, who
showed Alfonso VIII. the mountain-path that enabled him to reach
the battlefield of Las Navas de Tolosa (p. 302). To the right is the
Alfaqui Abu WaUd^ who made peace between Alfonso VI. and Bishop
Bernhard, when the former was incensed over the high-handed expul-
sion of the Moors from their mosque (p. 130). — The lofty *Retablo
of the high-altar, made of larch-wood, gilded and painted in the
richest Gothic style, was erected under Card. Ximtfnez (1500-1604).
It was designed by Philip VigamfAiid Alfonso Sanchez, and executed
by IXego Copin, Petit Jean, SebasUdn de Almonacid, and other artists.
The five stages represent scenes from the New Testament, the figures
being all either lifesize or larger. At the top is a colossal Mt. Cal-
vary. In the middle is a fine pyramidal Cusi6dia, containing the
Sagrdrio or pyx. — Among the monuments (Enterramientos) on the
walls is (left) the Renaissance tomb of Cardinal Pedro Oonxale%
1 34 Route 9. TOLEDO. a, CathedraL
de Mmddia (d. 1495), the so-called 'Tercir Bey\ consisting of a
Baicophagus with a recumbent flguie. On the exterior of the same
wall is an altar with a medallion by CovarrHbiaa , representing the
cardinal adoring the Holy Cross, which is held by St. H^ena. —
The SepuLcros Reales of the ^Reyes Vitfjos', to the right and left of
the high-altar, consist of richly decorated niches, executed by Diego .
Copin in 1507 and containing the older sarcophagi, on which lie
effigies of 1289. On the Gospel side are the tombs of Alfonso VJI,
and the Infante Don Pedro de AgiUldr, son of Alfonso XI. ; on the
Epistle side are Sancho IV. (el Bravo) and Sancho III, (el Deseddo),
To the S. of the capilla mayor is the entrance to the CapUla del
Santo SepvXcro (PL 9; usually closed), so called from a Deposition
in the Tomb above the high-altar , carved, by Diego Copin (1514)
and painted by Juan de Borgofia.
To the E. of the capilla may6r is the monument of (Jardinal
Diego de Astorya, including the Trasparente (PL- 10), a barbaric but
extraordinarily well-executed 'fricassee de marbre*, completed by
Narciso Tomi in 1732 and deriving its name from the opening by
which light is admitted to the Camarin behind the high-altai.
Amid the chaos of angels and clouds is the Archangel Raphael, kick-
ing his feet in the air and holding a large golden fish in his hand.
The *CoBo, a worthy rival of the capilla maydr, though gen-
erally too dark to be properly appreciated, occupies the two bays of-
the nave to the W. of the transept. The reja separating it from the
latter is the work of Domingo de Cespedes (1548). On the three other
sides it is surrounded by walls, against the inside of which are
placed the sillerfa (see below) and the organs. The floor is of
marble, finely inlaid. The Altar de Prima is so called because
mass is read here at the first hour of the day. Over it is the 'Yirgen
de la Blanca', a figure in black stone, and round it is a good reja
by Francisco Villalpando and Rui Diaz de Corrdl, — In the middle
of the choir are three reading-desks. The two larger ones (airi-
UraSj facist6les)j executed by Nicolds de Vergdra^ his like-named
son, and Juan Corbella (1570), are made of gilded bronze and iron
in the form of a Doric building. The third atrfl, called El AguUoy
is in the shape of a huge brazen eagle with outstretohed wings,
by Vicente Salinas (1646). The Gothic castle on which it stands
was made by a German artist in 1425 and was originally intended
for another purpose. — The chief glory of the choir is, however,
its superb **SillerCa, or stalls, two rows of which occupy the lower
part of the walls. The Sillerfa Baja, carved in walnut-wood by the
^Entalladik' Rodriguez in 1495, consists of 50 seats and 5 flights of
steps. The 54 medallions represent scenes in the newly* (1492)
concluded conquest of Granada, and contain many interesting details
of costumes and manners. The carvings and tracery are in a florid
Gothic style, and show a most exuberant fancy in the representation
of grotesque figures, the introduction of animals in the most unex-
a, Caihedral. TOLEDO. 9. Route, 1 35
peeted situations, and the like. — The 8iUer(a AUa is also of wal»
nut-wood, but is most elaborately adorned with intarsia-work fern-
butfdotjf Jasper columns with alabaster bases and capitals, alabaster
eanopies, eharming figures in relief on the backs of the stalls, a
frieze of medallions, and delicate oarTing on every aYailable sur-
face. It was finished in 1543, the 35 stalls on the Gospel side
being by AloMo BerrugueU and the 35 stalls on the Epistle side by
PhUip Vigamt Of these two artists the inscription says: 'Gerta-
venint artiflcnm ingenia; certabnnt semper spectatorum judicia*.
— The SUla Anobiapdl, at the W. end of the core, bears the arms
of Card. Silic^ and was made by Bermguete. Its bronse columns
support a canopy, above which is a lifesize alabaster group of the
Transfiguration on Mt. Tabor. The back of the throne is embellished
with a medallion of St. Ildefonso, receiving the chasuble, by Gregdrio
VigamCj a brother of Philip.
Tbe Bespaldotj or outer faces of the side-walls of the core, are
adorned by a Gothic arcade, borne by 52 columns of the famous
Toledo jasper. Above the arcade are 56 medallions with reliefs of
scenes from the Old Testament, executed about 1380 by the un-
known sculptor of the subjects on the Puerta de Rel6j. — In tbe
middle of the Traaeoro, or back of the choir, is a medallion by Alonso
Bemi(fueUj representing God the Father and the Evangelists. To
the right and left are alabaster statnes of Innocence and Guilt (Ino^
etneia and Culpa), by Nieol&i de Verg6fa (ca. 1550).
We now begin our visitation of the side-chapels and subsidiary
buildings at the Gapilla Mozarabb (PI. 11), in the S.W. angle
of the church, where divine service is celebrated daily at 9.30 a.m.
according to the Visigoth ic or Mozarabic ritual. This ritual differs
from the ^Latin' in thirteen points (which may be found detailed in
Farra*$ 'Gompendio del Toledo en la mano\ p. 41), and down to
1851 was observed also in six of the city parochial churches. The
chapel was built for Gard. Xim^nez by Enrique de Ega» in 1504.
The upper part is by Juan de Arteaga and Franeiaeo de Vargae
(1519)', the cupola was added by Jorge Manuel Theotoc6puU (p. 131)
in 1626. The fine reja is by Juan Frances (1524). Above the altar
to the right is a mosaic of the Virgin and Child, sent from Rome by
Card. Lorenzetti (1794). Tbe fresco in front of us, by Juan de Bor-
gona (1514), represents scenes from the capture of Oran, at which
Gard. Ximtfnez was present. To the right he is seen embarking at
Cartagena, and to the left landing at Mars-el-Kebir. In the centre
is the storming of Oran. The AguUa and other large Atriliras (p. 134)
should be noticed. — The CapUku de la Epifania (PI. 12), de la Con-
cepekfn(Fl. 13), and de San MarUn (PI. 14^ are devoid of interest.
* The CApiiiLA DB San Euo^nio (PI. 15j is enclosed by a fine
reja by Enrique de Ega$ (1500) and contains a statue of St. Engen-
ins by Diego Copin (1517) and an altar- piece with paintings from
tbe life of Christ by Juan de Borgona (1516). To the left is the tom^
1 36 Route 9. TOLEDO. a. Cathedral.
of BUhop Fernando del Castillo (d. 1521), with Ms effigy in alabaster ;
to the right is the tomb of the Alguacil Feman Oudiel (d. 1278), a
good specimen of the Saracenic style.
On the wall of the aisle beyond the chapel of San Engenio is the
so-called Cristobtddn, a colossal figure (46 ft. high) of St. Chris-
topher (Cristdbal), painted at an early period and restored by Oa-
briel de Btieda in 1638. — "We next pass the Puerta de los Leones
(PI. 5; p. 132) and reach the Gothic CapiUa de 8ania Lucf a {Ph 16),
the pation-saint of the blind, erected in the 13th centnry. To the
left of the entrance is a John the Baptist, by Ribera or Caravaggio^
to the right is a St. Bartholomew, by Maella (1786). This chapel
also contains some interesting inscriptions of the 13th century. —
The CapiUa de Reyes VUjos (Pi. 17), founded in 1290 as the CapiUa
del Espfritu Santo (comp. p. 133), has a beautiful reja by Domingo
de Cespedes (1629). The three retablos on the E. side, by Francisco
Comontes (1639), contain some interesting pictures by Juan Alfon
(1418), ranking among the earliest efforts of oil-painting. — The
Capillas de Santa Ana (PI. 18), (te San Juan BautUta (PI. 19), de
San Oa (PI. 20), and de San Nicolds (PI. 21) are uninteresting. The
door adjoining the last leads to the —
•*Sala Capitular, erected in 1504-12 by Pedro Oumiel and
Enrique de Egas. Through a fine portal by Diego Copin (1510) we
enter the Antesala, with a marble floor, an artesonado ceiling by
Francisco de Lara (1617), and a plateresque frieze by Juan de Bor-
gona. By the N. wall is a fine cupboard or wardrobe by Oregorio
Pardo (1651) ; that by the S. wall , by Oregorio Lopez Durango
(1780), is less important. — The square portal leading hence to the
Chapter Room proper, executed by Maestro Pablo and Bernardino
Bonifacio, is purely Moorish in style. The Sala Capitular is a beau-
tiful rectangular room, with a superb artesonado ceiling, painted in
red, blue, and gold, and perhaps superior to all the similar ceilings
of Andalusia. It was begun by Diego Lopez de Arenas of Seville
and finished by Francisco de Lara in 1508. The painting and the
frieze are by Luis de Medina and Alfonso Sanchez (1510). The walls
are adorned with a celebrated series of 13 *Painting8 by Juan de
Borgona. On the entrance-wall is the Last Judgment (Jufcio Findl);
opposite wall, Descent from the Cross, Pietk, and Resurrection ; right
wall , Conception , Nativity , Presentation , and Annunciation ; left
wall. Visitation, Circumcision, Death and Assumption of the Virgin,
Presentation of the Chasuble to St. II defense. Below these paint-
ings is a series of 'portraits' of the archbishops by Juan de Borgona,
of which, however, two only — those of Mendoza and Xim^nez —
are really authentic likenesses. The stalls were carved by JVan-
cisco de Lara in 1512 ; the archiepiscopal throne in the middle is
by Diego Copin (1614). Above the latter is an attractive painting
of the Virgin and Child, by a Flemish-Spanish Master of about 1500.
Passing the Capilla de la Trinidad (PL 22), we now reach the
a. Cathedral TOLEDO. 9. Rofitf. 137
^Cafilla db San Ildbfonbo (PI. 23), a beautifal Gothic oetagon
at the extreme £. end of the church. It was founded at a very early
date by Archbishop Kodrigo and renewed in the 14th cent, by Card.
€fU de AWomdx. The two piers at the entrance are bedecked with
all manner of sculptures and medallions and are generally surrounded
by kneeling worshippers, — especially that to the left, which supports
the Virgen del PU6r and a piece of marble from the column of the
Virgin at Saragossa (p. 168). — The costly marble altar at the E. end,
with a reli'ef by M. F, Alvarez of the Gift of the Chasuble to St. Ilde-
fonso, has little artistic merit (1783). On the wall to the left, above
thm altar, is the so-called CrUto de la Cru% al Rtvis, In the middle of
the chapel stands the Monument of Card, Albom6% (d. 1364, at Yi-
terbo). By the right wall is the tomb of Alonso Carrillo de Albom6ty
Bishop of Avila (d. 1614), executed by Pedro Lopez de Tejdda in
1545 in the richest Renaissance style. Adjacent is that of his brother
Inigo Lopez CarrUlo de Mendoxoy Viceroy of Sardinia (killed in 1491
at the siege of Granada), with a recumbent marble efflgy on a
sarcophagus. The simple tomb of ArehbUhop Oaspar de Borja
(d. 1646) is in black marble. On the left side of the chapel is the
similar tomb of the Papal Legate Alejandro Frumento (d. 1680).
Adjoioing the high-altar is that of Archbp. Juan Martinez de Con-
trcras(d. 1434).
The *Gapilla db Santiago (PI. 24) was erected in 1436, on
the site of an earlier chapel dedicated to St. Thomas of Canterbury
(1177), by Count Alvaro de Luna, the once all-powerful favourite
of John II., who was executed at Valladolid in 1463. He fitted it
np as his family burial-chapel, and placed in it a huge bronze mau-
soleum, which was afterwards destroyed. The chapel is in the most
elaborate Gothic style and is, like that of St. Ildefonso, octagonal
in shape. The retablo of the high-altar, executed in 1498 by Sancho
de Zamdra, Juan de Segovia, and Pedro Oumiel, includes an eques-
trian figure of St. James the Elder and a portrait of the founder as
Grand-Master of the Order of Santiago. Above the retablo is a col-
ossal relief of St. James fighting the Moors. The 14 paintings of
the retablo are unimportant, as are also the other two altars. — The
chief feature of interest in the chapel is the six Gothic *Tombs of
Carrara marble, all executed by Pablo Ortiz in 1488 et seq. at the
order of Dona Maria de Luna, daughter of Count Alvaro. In the
middle are the much damaged monuments of Alvaro de Luna^ clad in
full armour and enveloped in the cloak of the Order of Santiago, and
his wife Dona Juana Pimentel (d. 1488). At each corner of Al-
Yaro's tomb kneels a Knight of Santiago, and at his feet are a kneel-
ing page and a helmet wreathed in laurel and ivy. At the comers
of his wife^s tomb are four Franciscan monks, at her feet a waiting
woman. In recesses in the left wall are the tomb of Arehbp. Juan de
CerezuSla (d. 1442), maternal uncle of Don Alvaro, and Arehbp
Pedro de Luna (d. 1414), his uncle on the father's side. By t>
138 Route 9, TOLEDO. o. Cathedral.
wall to the right repose his son Juan de Luna, Conde de 8anti$Uban,
and a nameless kinsman, probably his father.
The Capillas de Santa Leoc&dia (PI. 25) and del Cristo de la
Columna (PI. 26) may be left nn visited. The passage between the
chapels of Santiago and Santa Leocadia leads to the highly inter-
esting *Oapilla db Rbtes Nuevos (PI. 27; closed after 9 a.m.),
so called from the later line of kings descended from the illegitimate
Henry II., who killed his brother Peter the Cruel (p. 396). The
chapel was originally built in the N. aisle, on the site of the Gapilla
delaDescen8i6n(p. 140); the present handsome Benaissance structure
was erected by Alonao de Covarrubias in 1534. The flue Portal,
flanked by two armed kings bearing escutcheons, leads into an AnU
Capilla, through which we enter the chapel proper, consisting of
three bays. In the first of these are a Portuguese standard, taken
at the battle of Toro (1476), and an old suit of armour worn by the
standard-bearer Duarte de Almeida. In the second bay, beyond
the reja by Domingo de Cespedes, is the Silleria, above which, on
each side, are two ^Niches, elaborately framed and containing the
sarcophagi and effigies of the kings. To the right are Henry II.
himself (d. 1378) and his wife Dofw, Juana (d. 1381); to the left
are Henry III, (d. 1407) and his wife Dona CataUna Alencastre
(i.e. * of Lancaster' ; d. 1418), daughter of John of Gaunt. In similar
niches to the right and left of the altar lie John I, (d. 1390), sou of
Henry II., and his wife Leonora (d. 1382), both by Jorge de Con-
trSras. In the comer to the right, by the tomb of Juana, is a kneel-
ing figure, by Juan de Borgona, of John II. (d. 1454), the builder of
the *old chapel', who is buried in the Oartuja de Miraflores (p. 35).
The set of apartments we next visit: — the Sacristfa, Vestu&rio,
Cuarto de la Cust6dla, Ochavo, and Gapilla de la Vfrgen del Sagrario
— were built by Nicolds de Vergdra the Younger in 1592-1616, on
the site of an old hospital. — The entrance to the Sacristia is
beyond the Cap. del Cristo de la Columna (see above). From the
Ante-Sacriatia we pass through a fine portal, the doors of which (26 ft.
high) are by Torfbio Oonzales, into the large 8al6n de la Sacristfaj
containing several good paintings. The altar-piece (Casting lots for
the raiment of the Saviour) is by Dom, Theotocdpuli^ surnamed El
Oreeo (1587). Other paintings are by Qoya (Betrayal of Christ),
Ramos, Juan de Pant6ja^ and Luca Giordano. The ceiling is also
painted by the last. The last archway on the E. wall contains the
tomb of Card. Luis Maria de Borbon (d. 1823), by Salvatierra. — The
door in the £. wall leads to the Vestuabio, the groining of which
was painted in 1671 by Claudio Coello and Josi Donoso. Some of
the vestments are very handsomely embroidered. Among the paint-
ings here are : Luca Giordano, Baptism of Christ ; Titian (?), Cruci-
fixion ; Van Dyck (?), Pope Clement VH. ; FVaneeaco Bassano, Cir-
cumcision ; Rubem, Madonna ; Guido Reni, San Carlo Borromeo and
St. Philip Neri; Guercino, David; Dom, Theotocdpuli^ St. Francis;
a. Cathedral. TOLEDO. 9. Bouie. 139
Mario dei Fiori, Flower-pieces. — The Vestuario is adjoined by the
CuABTo DB LA Cu8t6dia, formerly the cathedral treasury (see be-
low), containing pictures by Van jbyckj Carlo Maraitaf and others.
The GAPiiiLA DB LA YiBOBN DSL Sao&abio (Pi. 28) is approached
through the CapUla de Santa Marina^ which is usually called the
Cap, de Doeiore$, from the licentiates who receive their degrees here.
Visitors are, however, seldom admitted to the main chapel, which
contains a highly venerated figure of the Virgin, made of a dark
coloured wood and almost covered with valuable jewellery. — To
the N. of the Cap. de la Yirgen is the Ochaoo ('octagon'), containing
the BeUedriOf or collection of reliquaries. It is entered from the sac-
risty. — In the N. ambulatory of the apse, opposite the entrance to
the Cap. de Santa Marina, is the grave of Archbp, Luit Fcmandet
Portocatriro (d. 1709), the 'King Maker', marked by a slab bearing
the inscription: 'Hie jacet pulvis cinis et nihil'.
We now paas the Puerta del Rel6j (PI. 8; p. 132) and enter the N.
aisle, off which opens the large Gothic Capilla de San Pedbo (PI . 29),
now used as a parish-church. It was built by Archbp. Sancho de
Uojat (d. 1422), whose fine monument is seen above the silleria to
the left, a position to which it was removed (from the centre of
the chapel) during a renovation by Aichbp. Lorenzana (end of tho
18th cent.). The pictures by Baycu are insignificant. — Passing the
Puerta de SauU Catalina (PI. 7 ; p. 132) and the CapUla de la Virgen
de la Pieddd (PL 30), we reach the CapUla de la PUa Bautismdl
(PI. 30), or baptistry, with a handsome portal and a rejaby Domingo
de Ciiptdes. The beautiful bronze font (pUa) and the two retablos
on the side-walls are by FrancU ofAnttcerp (Francisco deAmberea).
— In front of the altai of the small CapUla de Nuettra Senora de la
Antigua (PI. 32) it was customary to consecrate the Spanish banners
used in the wars with the Moors. Beyond this are the Capilla de
Teresa de Baro (PI. 33) and the inside of the Puerta de la Presen-
taci6n (p. 132). — We have now reached the N.W. angle of the
church and anter the —
Capilla db San Juan (PI. 34), which is on the lowest story of
the N.W. tower and is also called the Cap, de la Torre and Cap. de
los Can6nigo9 (adm. only by special permission of the chapter). It
was built in the Renaissance style in 1537 by Alonao de CovarrCiJbia^^
and occupies the site of an earlier Cap. de Jems, known as the Quo
Vadis. The fine portal is adorned with a relief of Christ and St.
Peter (Domine, quo vadis?). The interior was remodelled in 1890,
and now contains the *Cathbdbal Tbbasubt (Lias Alhajas =
jewels). The chief treasure is the silver *Custodia executed by
Enriqv£ de Arphe for Card. Xim^nez in 1624. This is nearly 10 ft.
high, weighs 378 lbs., and is decorated vnth 260 silver-gilt statu-
ettes. The monstrance it enshrines, weighing 4 lbs., is said to be made
of the first gold that Columbus brought from the New World. Her^
also is kept the wardrobe of the Virgen del Sagrario (see above), ir
140 Route 9. TOLEDO. a. Cathedral.
eluding her costly embroidered mantle. Other objects of interest are
the Onu de la Manga, made by the Toledan goldsmith Oregorio de •
Varona (16th cent.) ; the OuUSn^ or archiepiscopal cross, which Card.
Mendoza planted on theAlhambra on Jan. 2nd, 1492; the four Geo-
graphical Globes; a sword said to have belonged to Alfonso YI. ; the
BibUa de Oro^ in 3 vols. (12th cent.) ; a statuette of St. Francis by
AUmso Cano (?); silver reliefs of the Rape of the Sabines and the
Death of Darius, ascribed to Benvenuto Cellini (?).
The small Capilla db la Dbscbnsi6n db Nubstba Sbnora
(PL 36) is in the form of a pyramidal Gothic tower erected (1610)
against the second pier of the N. aisle. It is believed to mark the
spot where the Virgin alighted on Deo. 18th, 666, to present St.
Ildefonso, the champion of the 'Imaculada Gonoepci6n', with the
casuUa or chasuble. The scene is represented in the medallion over
the altar. At the back of the chapel, behind a grating in a marble
frame, is a piece of the stone on which the Virgin stood ; it is much
worn by the fingers of the devout, which are thrust through the grat-
ing and then kissed.
The Gothic Cloisters, begun in 1389, are most conveniently entered
by the Puerta del MolUte (PL M) on the W. side, where ^molletes'
(p. 127) used to be distributed to the poor. They enclose a pleasant
garden. The Claristro Bajo (lower cloister) is embellished with
frescoes by Francisco Bayeu, representing scenes from the lives of
Eulogius, Eugenius, Gasilda, and other saints. The twelfth fresco,
showing St. Leocadia brought to trial, is by Maella, On a column
in the middle of the E. walk is a marble cylinder with an inscription
referring to the foundation of the earliest Christian church (comp.
p. 130). Adjacent is a large doorway leading to the 8ala Capituldr
de Veranoj or summer chapter-house, built in the 16th cent, by
Card. Xim^nez (closed). In the N.E. angle lies the Capilla de San
Bias, containing the tomb of its founder. Card. Pedro Tcnorio
(d. 1399), and having its groining adorned with frescoes in the style
of Giotto. — To reach the Claustro Alto^ or upper cloisters, we pass
through the door in the Archiepiscopal Palace mentioned at p. 131
and through an archway uniting the palace with the cloisters. Off
the cloisters open a number of rooms known as the Claverfas ; here,
too, are kept the Monumento used in Holy Week, and the Gigani6ne8
de Taraseaj or grotesque figures carried through the streets in pro-
cession (the Ana Bolena, the dragon Tarasca, etc.). On the N. side
is the Chapter Library, founded by Card. Tenorio in 1380, and
containing valuable MSS. and specimens of early printing.
Opposite the W. front of the cathedral stands the Falacio Arzo-
bispal (PL D, 5), or Archbishop's Palace, on the gronndfloor of
which is the Biblioteca Provincial, containing books and MSS. from
the collection of Card. Lorenzana, a portrait of the historian Mariana,
and other objects of interest (open 9-2).
a. AymUamimto. TOLKDO. 9, RouU. 141
The palace bounds the N.W. side of the Plazubla i>bl Atvn-
TAJOBNTO, which affords the best Tiew of the cathedral, including
the Mozarabic Chapel with its cupola and the open-work steeple. —
On the S.W. side of the plaza rises the —
AyuatamiAiito (PI. D, 5), or city-hall, built in the 15th cent.
and remodelled in the 17th by Dom. TheotccdpuU; it has a handsome
facade in the classical style. The entrance is on the N.W. side. On
the wall of the staircase are inscribed the following verses by OofMz
ManH^ue (gold letters on a blue ground, now hard to decipher):
*ir9bla ditcrttot varonei *Qood geatlemen with high forbears,
Qu4 ffobemaU a Toledo^ 'Who govern Toledo city,
£n aquuioi euaUmes As you ascend these civic Rtairs,
Deaechdd ku afieUmu^ Ahandon all nepotic eares,
Codicia^ Umdr y mtdo. Fear, greed, and undue pity.
Por los ecmune* prove^oa Think only of the State's behoof,
Ac/dd log parUemlarf; Not of the gain that lureth %
Puu 90» JIto JHo9 pUaru Since you' re the pillars of the roof
/)e tan riquUimos Ueho$. Which God provides, be yours the proof
Siiad ftnnoi y dereehot. That honour still endiireth'.
Here also are portraits of Charles II. and his wife Marianne, by
Carreno. The 8ala de Sesiones dt Verano contains tine 'azulejos* and
some battle-scenes. — The balcony affords a good view of the
cathedral.
The Caile de Santa J$abel leads to the S. from the Plazuela del Ayunta-
miento to the scanty remains of the alleged Palace of Ptter the Cruei (?•,
p. 138). The old portal, in the Kud^Jar style, is immured opposite, in the
Convento de Santa Itabel (PI. 7j D, 6).
b. Xorth-Easten and XortJiern Qnarten of the City.
The animated Calle dbl Ookbbcio (P1.D, £, 4), the chief bus-
iness street of Toledo, beginning a little to the N. of the cathedral,
leads to the Plasa ve Zocodov^k (PI. £, 4), or Plata de la Consti-
tueUin, the ibcus of the city's life. The name Zocodov^r is connected
with the Arable SUkh, a market (comp. p. 384). The arcades of the
large buildings surrounding it are occupied by shops and the caf^^s
mentioned at p. 127. The Calle de las Armas runs hence to the N.
to the Mirad^ro. (p. 143), and the Cuesta del Alc&zar to the S. to
the Alcazar (p. 150). The Areo de la Sangre de CrUto, on the E.
side of the plaza, leads to the —
CuBSTA DBL Cabmbn Calzado (PI. E, F, 4), which descends to
the Tagus. To the right in this street is the PbBdda de la Sangre, the
former Meidn del SeviUano, in which Cervantes lived ; it has an in-
teresting court. To the left is the old * Hospital de Santa Onu
(PI. E, 3, 4; visitors generally admitted, fee V2-lp0> now belong-
ing to the large AcadSmia Qeneral MiUiar (cadet academy) on the
other side of the way. The hospital was built by Enrique de Egos
in 1494^1514 for Card. Pedro Mendoza; it is in the form of a Malt-
ese cross and is one of the masterpieces of the Spanish Renaissance
Its prototype was the Colegio May6r de Santa Cruz at Valiadoli
142 Bottt<f9. TOLEDO. h. NoHh-Eastem
and it served itself in turn as the model of the Colegio de Santiago
at Salamanca. One of the finest features is the Ported^ constructed
of 'piedra blanca de la Rosa' and marble. It is adorned with the
arms and motto (* Ave Maria gratia plena') of the founder ; and over
it is the Adoration of the Cross, with St. Helena to the right, and
the kneeling cardinal and St. Peter to the left. The two fine Patios
have double rows of arcades. In the first of them is the Staircase,
with its handsome balustrades and a wooden ceiling in a Moresco-
plateresque style. The Church, originally built in the foftn of a
Greek cross and afterwards much disfigured, has been despoiled of
all its contents. Some of the columns in the second patio were
brought from the church of St. Leocadia (p. 147).
Beyond the hospital the street, which is lined with acacias, de-
scends, bending to the right, to the Puerta de Doct Cantos {J^h F, 4)
and the gorge of the Tagus. To the right, below, are the ruins of
an Acueducto Romano (PI. F, 4, 5). — Following the city-walls
towards the N., we pass (right) several large mills and the Turbina
Vargas (PI. F, 4), or municipal pumping apparatus, which replaces
the unsuccessful Artificio, built by Juanelo Turriano (p. 447) in 1668.
The *Puente de Alcintara (PI. F, 3), at the N.E. angle of
the city, in front of the Puerta de Alcdntaray spans the Tagus in one
large and one smaller arch. It is of Moorish origin (Arab, al kan-
tara = bridge), but the present structure dates mainly from the
time of Alfonso the Learned (1268) and Archbp. Pedro Ten6rio
(1380). On the W. tower (1484) is a small statue of St. Ildefonso by
Berrwgwete, with an inscription of Philip II. The bridge commands a
striking view of the Tagus and of the city, culminating in the colossal
Alcazar. — On the heights on the left bank of the river are the ruins
of the CastiUo de San Servando or de San Cervantes (PI. E, 3), erected
by Alfonso YI. to protect the convent of that name and the city,
and renewed by Alfonso VIII. (view). The Pasio de la Rosa leads
from the bridge to the rail, station {Estaci6n delFerroearril; PL F, 3).
In the Huerta del Rey, to the N.E. of the ftation and close to the river,
is the so-called Palaeio de Oalicma^ the remainf of a Moorish building, sup-
posed to have been erected by the mythical King Oala/ri for his daughter
Oaliana, the equally mythical lady-love of Charlemagne. — It is referred
to by Sancho Panza (^Don Quixote", chap. 55).
From the Alcantara bridge we now proceed to the N.W. and
ascend the broad road which passes below the oldest Moorish walls
(left) and then skirts the more recent city-walls (right), constructed
by King Wamba (p. 129) to include the suburb (arrabal) of Ante-
queruela. In about 10 min. we reach the old * Puerta del Sol
(PI. D, 3), a structure in the Mud€jar style, with horseshoe arches
and two towers, probably built about 1100 and recently restored.
The reliefs on the W. side, representing St. Ildefonso receiving tiie
casuUa (p. 140) and the Punishment of an alguazil (bailiff) by Fer-
dinand III., are, of course, of later date. Ascent of the gate, see
144. — A little farther up is the Puerta de Alare6nes (PL D, 3),
Quarten. TOLEDO. 9. RouU. 143
above wMeh is ihe M{rad£ro (PI. D, £, 3), a promenade command-
ing a beautiful view. The buildings to the £. of the Mirad^ro oc-
cupy the site of King Wamba's palace.
From the Pnerta del Sol the Calle Re&l del Arrabal (PI. D, 3)
descends to the N.E. to the old church of Santiago del Arrabdl (PI. G,
D, 3), built in the Mudtfjar style in the reign of Alfonso YI., renewed
in the 13th cent., and partly modernized in the interior in 1790.
It possesses a well-preserved Moorish tower. Farther on is the PuertAi
VUagra Actu&l (PI. D, % 3), a double gateway, built in 1550 and
restored In 1575. Its name is probably derived f^om the Arabic,
either from Bab Shakra (red gate) or Bab Skara (field-gate). On
the outside of the N. gate Is the double eagle of Charles V. ; on the
inside is a statue of St. Antony, one of the tutelars of the city, by
BerrugutU (or Monegro), — We next traverse the attractive Pasio
de Madrid (PI. G, D, 2), or MercMn^ which contains a few statues
of the Madrid 'reyes' (p. 95) and commands an extensive view to
the W. of the city-walls and the vega. At the N. end of it lies the
huge Hospital de Ban Joan Bantitta (PI. D, 1 ; fee V2-I P-)' gener-
ally known as Hotp, de Afuira ('outside'), built by Bariolomi de
Bustamentt in 1541 et seq. The facade is unfinished. From the N.
side of the fine PdUo, which is divided into two parts by a colonnade,
we pass through a Renaissance portal by Bertugu^U into the Chapel j
which is really a large church in the form of a Latin cross, sur-
mounted by a lofty dome. Below the dome is the monument of the
founder, Card. Juan de Tavira, executed by Berruguitej who died
at this hospital in 1561. — To the E. of the hospital lies the suburb
of CovaehuekUj the houses of which conceal the remains of a
Roman Amphitheatre (PI. 1 ; D, 1).
The Pvarta VUagra Antigua (PI. 0, 8), now closed, is an ancient
Arab gate of ihe 9th cent, and has preserved its original form almost un-
altered. It lies a little to the W. of the Visagra Actuil and is reached
by skirting the outside of the city-wall. — From this point a broad road,
planted with trees, leads to the 8.W. to the Puerto del Canibron (p. 147).
^bove this road, on the left, are the Dipuiaeidn ProvineUd (PI. C, S), with
some remains of the Paiaee of the Bwffoe^ and the Boepital de Dementes
(PI. B, 3, 4), generally known as El Ntmcio and called by Cervantes the
Cam del Nuncio. — Another road leads to the W. from the Puerta Visagra
Antigua to the Weapon Factory (p. 147), passing some insignificant Roman
I (PI. B, 2, 3), which may be those of a circus.
From the Puerta del Sol we now turn to the S. W. and re-enter
the inner town by the Piwrta del Cristo de la Lux (PI. 2 ; D, 3). A
little way up the hill is the ermita of —
*S1 Crifto de la Luz (PI. D, 3; fee to the conseije, who lives
in the court to the left, 1/2- 1 p.), a small but interesting mosque,
built in the 11th cent, and incorporating some columns from a more
ancient Visigothic church. The front half, with four columns and a
lofty yault, is, however, the only old part of the present structure.
The horseshoe arches, the vaulting, the arcades over the main arches,
the windows, and other details all resemble those of the mosque of
144 RouU9. TOLEDO. h. N. Quarter^,
O^rdoYa. The name is derived from a legend whicli relates how the
horee of the Oid, on the entry of Alfonso VI., knelt down opposite
the mosque and refused to moTe from the spot. The wall opposite
was then opened and a niche revealed, containing a crucifix and a
lighted lamp from the original Yisigothic church. The king thereupon
celebrated in this mosque the first mass said in the conquered city
(May 25th, 1086). — From the court of the church the conseije leads
us up some steps to the top of the Puerta dd Sol (p. 142), the works
of which afford an interesting idea of the art of fortification in the
middle ages. Wide view from the flat roof.
From the Gristo de la Luz the steep Gubsta be Gabmelitos
ascends to the S.W. to the church of San Vicente Anejo (PI. D, 4),
in the small plazu^Ha of that name. Adjacent is the Acctdimia de
Dihujo (PI. G, D, 4), or academy of art, with a vestibule borne by
colossal Ionic granite columns. The collections are unimportant.
Part of the building is occupied by the In$tituto de Segunda Ense-
nanza^ or grammar-school.
Narrow and tortuous lanes lead up and down from the Plasuela de
San Vicente to the N.W. to the church of 8anio Domingo elReca()f\. C, 3),
the handsome portico of which is borne by four columns. To the W. is
a wall with bells. The interior is uninteresting; but the grated room to
the W. is picturesquely filled before 9 a.m. with the kneeling figures of
white-robed Dominican nana.
A few hundred yards to the W. of the Art Academy, at No. 9
Oalle de la Misericordia, lies the *Gafa de Meia (PI. 4, 04; fee
72-1 pO) containing a fine room in the Mud^jar style (65 ft. long,
23 ft. wide, and 40 ft. high), with rich arabesque decoration and a
beautiful artesonido ceiling. The building probably dates from the
middle of the 15th century.
A little to the W. is the Flazuela de Padilla (PI. C, 4), where stood
the house (torn down by Charles V. in 1622) of Jwm de PadUla^ the cel-
ebrated leader of the Comuneros (p. 63), and his wife Maria. — By fol-
lowing the street at the N.W. angle of this plaeuela and then taking the
first turning to the right, we reach the handsome church of Saato Do-
mingo el Antiffvo (PI. C, 4), built and adorned with sculptures by Dom,
Theotocdpvli.
To the S.E. of the Gasa de Mesa we reach the plazuela and church
of San Juan Bautiata (PI. C, D, 4, 5). Farther on is the Post and
Telegraph Office (PL C, D, 6), whence we may either descend to
the S.W. through the Galle de Alfonso Doce and the Galle de la
Gampana to Santo Tomi (p. 145), or proceed to the S.E., through
the Gallej6n de Jesus y Maria and the Guesta de la Giudad, to the
Flazuela del Ayuntamiento (p. 141).
0. Weitem and South -Weitem Quarter! of the City.
To reach the S.W. part of the city from the Plazuela del Ayunta-
miento (p. 141), we follow the Guesta de la Ciudad, beginning
opposite the main entrance of the Ayuntamiento, then turn to the
left into the Galle de la Trinidad, and follow it to the Galle Santo
e. Western Quartert. TOLEDO. 9, RouU, H5
TomA (PL C, by. In a side-street off tko las', opposite each other,
stand the chorines of San Antonio de iWtia, belonging to a Fran-
ciscan nunnery, and > —
Sftnto Tomi (PI. C, 5), originally a mosque, but rebuilt in the
Gothic style in the 14th cent, at the cost of Count Orgaz. The beauti-
ful tower, however, still retains most of its original character. In the
interior, to the right of the main entrance, is a celebrated painting
by Domenieo TheotocdpuU, 8umamed£IE Oreeo (p. IXTiii), representing
the burial of Count Orgiz (d. 1323) In this church and the mirac-
ulous appearance thereat of SS. Augustine and Stephen. Most
of the mourners are portraits; the sixth man, counting from the
right, is the painter himself. The rich vestments shown in the
picture are still preserved in the cathedral ; on that of the young
priest to the left is depicted the Stoning of St. Stephen. £1 Greco
painted the picture in 1584 and received for it 24,900 reales. To
the left of the high -altar is a statue of Elijah. — To the S. of
St. Thomas's lies the tree-shaded Plazuela del Conde, with the Pa-
lacio del Conde de FuemaUda (PI. 0, GO; now a barrack), in which
Charles Y. stayed in 1637 and his wife Isabella of Portugal died.
Following the Calle de Santo Tomtf and the Calle del Angel
towards the W., we pass (to the left) the Escuela de Industrlas
Artisticas (p. 146) and reach the former Franciscan convent and
ohoroli of —
*8a]i Juan de los Bsyes (PL B, 5; custodian at Santo Tomtf,
fee Vs'l P* ; d^- 0^ *^6 N.W. side). The convent was founded in
1476, after the defeat of the Portuguese at Toro, by the *Catholic
Kings*, who meant It to be their burial-place. It was dedicated to
their patron-saint John the Baptist. The first architect was Juan,
Quas^ a Fleming. After the capture of Granada in 1492 and the
foundation of the royal mausoleum there (p« 340), the chief object
of San Juan disappeared and the building was protracted till the
17th century. Thus the edifice, begun in the late-Gothic style,
shows a strong leaning towards the forms of the Renaissance. The
chief portal, on the N.W. side, begun by Covarrvbias in 1553,
already shows all the symptoms of the decline of architecture. It is
adorned with several statues, a figure of the Baptist, and the arms
and initials (F Y for Ferdinand and Ysabel) of the 'reyes'. On the
granite walls hang a number of iron chains struck from the limbs of
Christian captives found in Moorish dungeons.
The •Intbbiob, much damaged by the French in i808, was
fitted up as a parish-church (San Martin)^ somewhat scantily, in 1840.
It consists of a nave, destitute of aisles but flanked with chapels.
There are only three piers on each side, two of which are incorporated
with the coro alto. The transept occupies the whole width of the
nave and chapels. To the £. of this is a kind of shallow apse, the
Capilla May&r^ with a straight rear-wall. The Kenaissance altar r
Baedekkb'b Spain. 10
146 R(nde9. TOLEDO. c. Western
brought from the suppressed church of Santa Cruz (p. 142). — The
transept 1$ elaborately adorned with seulptureB and ornamentation
executed in white stone. Against the N.W. and S.W. piers of the
cimborio are the Tribunas or ambones for the royal family. The
windows are flanked with figures and canopies. On the walls are the
colossal coats-of-arms of the ^Reyes^ supported by eagles and ac-
companied by their badges and initials. Below is a frieze of amoretti.
Long inscriptions in Latin and Spanish refer to the glories of the
royal founders. There are innumerable statues with canopies over
them. All kinds of heads protrude even from the capitals of the
pillars. The arabesques of the Alhambra have, as it were, been here
translated into the plastic forms of Christianity. The general effect is
like ivory carving in stone ; the whole breathes a most liberal spirit
of artistic life and beauty. — The Cupola over the lofty arches of the
crossing adds to the impression of light and space. — The vaulting
below the high choir, to the S., is painted with coats-of-arms.
The Convent J which lies to the S.E. of the church, was also
devastated by the- French in 1808. In 1846 it was fitted up as
the Mustio Provincial (PI. 10; B, 6). The entrance is by door
No. 33, above which is sculptured a pelican. The museum is open
free on Sun. and holidays, 10-2 j at other times visitors ring (fee
V2-1 p.).
Room I. Among the sculptures are the effigies from the tomb of
Diego Lopez de Toledo and his wife Maria de Santa Cruz, the founders of
the convent of San Miguel de los Angeles (15th cent.)) bust of Card. Pedro
Gonzalez de Mendoza (pp. 133, 134), from the Santa Cruz Hospital ; statue
of St. Ildefonso and bust of Juanelo Turriane (p. 142), by BerrugmU; model
for the retablo of the Chapel of St. Ildefonso (p. 137), by Manvel Francisco
Alvarez; plaster busts of PJiilip V., Charles III., and Charles IV. — Among
the pictures are. a portrait of Torquemada, the Grand Inquisitor^ a Holy
Family, by Ribera ; nine scenes from the Life of Christ, from the retablo
of the church of Escalona, by a Master of the Flemish ^hool (ca. 1500) ^ &.
bird's eye view of Toledo, by Lorn. Theotoedpuli; and a Bearing of the
Cross, by Morales. — In the middle of the room are four Arab well-heads,
the largest from the Al-Djimi'a (p. 180). The cases contain th« missal of
Card. Xim^nez (1499) and two fine Limoges enamels from the cathedral,
one representing the Adoration of the Magi, the other the Betrayal of
Christ (15th cent.). — Otf the right side of the room are reproductions of
the ornamentation of Santa Maria la Blanca; wood-carvings from the
Cole^o de Santa Catalina (Toledo) and from the Palace of Peter the Cruel,
with Ariabic inscriptions. To the left are collections of coins and medals
and Toledan blades of the 16-17th centuries. — Rooh II. Above the finely
carved Gothic door is a Reli^^ representing a visit of the 'Catholic Kings'*
to the Convent of San Juan de los Reyes. On the walls are unimportant
pictures and sculptures.
The convent is adjoined by the Escuela de Induatrias Artisticas
(PI. B, 5), whence we visit the recently restored ♦Cloistbbs
(Claustro), one of the most brilliant creations of the Gothic art in
Spain. The light groining is formed by strongly marked intersect-
ing ribs; the windows are filled with exquisite tracery; the walls
and pillars are profusely embellished with statues, pilasters, and-
camopies. A genuine piece of Moorish omamentatioDi from the i^up^}
Quarteri, TOLEDO. 9. RouU. 147
pressed Couveiito de AgUBtiiios Calzados , bas been built into, tbe
N.W. wall. — To the 6.W. of the o^nvent lies the insigitificatit
Jardin BoUmUso (?l, A , 51. — For the adjacent church et' Santa
Maria la BlaneOj see p. 148.
The height, upon which San Juan de los Reyes stands, affords
a wide Tiew of theVega, the Siena de San Bernardo, and the
Sierra de Giedos (N.W.). A still more extensive view is obtadned
from the bare Ceiro de la Virgm de Ordcia (PI. B, 4), a little to
the N.£.
Descending from San Juan de los Reyes towards the N.W., we
reach the Puerta dd Camhrdn (PI. A, 4 ; Hhorn-bush'), formerly
named the Bdb al-Makarah, built by Alfonso VI. in 1102 and restor-
ed in 1576. The outside of it bears a eoat-of-arms ; on the inside
is an empty niche (see below), with an inscription. — In the Vega
Baja, which lies below the gate to the N.W., is the ermita of —
El Criito de la Vega (PI. A> 3), or *Christchurch-in-the-
Fields', formerly known as the Basilica de Santa Leoeddia, The first
church on this site is said to have been built in the 4th cent. , on
the spot where St. Leocadia sufTered martyrdom. This edifice was
enlarged by the Yisigothic King Sisebut (7th cent.) and became the
meeting-place of several councils. Since its destruction by the
Moors the church has been repeatedly restored (last in 1816), and Mr.
Street believes that no part of it is earlier than the 12th century. We
approach it through two small courts, one planted with cypresses
and the other containing (left) niches with the tombs of the clergy.
Over the main entrance of the church is a * Marble Statue of St.
Leocadia, considered the masterpiece of Berrugitete; it is half life-
size and originally stood in the niche on the inner side of the Puerta
del Cambr6n (see above). The saint is buried in the middle of the
church. Over the high-altar is a large wooden figure of Christ on
the Cross, the detached right arm of which has suggested sev-
eral romantic legends^ — In the court behind the house of the
sacristan are two tablets (let into the wall) with Arabic inscriptions,
and two columns, the smaller of which also bears an inscription
(fee 50 c.).
On the Tagns, about »/4 M. to the TS.W. of this point, lies the Govern-
ment 'Weapon Ttuetotj (FdbHca de Espddas)^ erected in 1788 and now of
compavitiTely little importance (visiton admitted, 8-12 and 1«6). The
blikdes of Toledo were famous as far back as the Roman period, and
Gratius Faliscus mentions the Toledo knife (eulter tolelanut) m his poem
on the chase. Under the Moors their reputation increased. The Armiros
«k Toledo formed a raild by themselves. The finest blades (armat blancas)
were made in the iGth cent., and specimens of them may he seen in the
Armerfa at Madrid (p. 96), the Estruch Museum at Barcelona (p. 202),
and elsewhere (comp. pp. 127, 196). The old Toledo blades were so elastic
that fhey eould be rolled up like a watch-spring (comp. p. 33).
We now return to the Puerta del Cambr6n, and proceed thenee
to the S., along the outside of the city-wall, to the t^ronte de Sar
Martin; About halfway, to the left, is the large Maiadero Fublv
10*
148 RouUB, TOLEDO. c. South- Westfm
(PI. A, 4), or public Blaughter-lionse, whleh Is said to occupy tlie
site of the palace of Bodericky the 'Last of the Goths'.
On the rirer below is the so-called B<Mo de la Cava (PI. A, 4, 5), where,
according to the story, Florinda (Arab. Zoraide), sumamed La Cava, die
daughter of Goant Julian, was bathing, when Bodeiick saw her beauties
from the castle above. The result jof his passion for her was the loss of
his kingdom, as the outraged father summoned the Hoors to aid his revenge
X711). The so-called bath is really the pier (torredn) of a bridge. — In
the middle of the town is the so-called Cueva de MercfOea (PI. 5^ D, 4),
which was said to be connected with an enchanted palace. Eoderick
caused it to be opened and found within an inscription foretelling the
downfall of his throne, Gomp. the 'Chronicle of Don Rodrigo' and /Seotfg
•Vision of Don Eoderick\
The imposing ^Fnente de San Martin (PI. A, 5), which spans
the Tagns to the W. of the town, was built in 1212 and renewed in
1390. It consists of five arches, that in the centre being about 100 ft.
in height. Each end is guarded by a gate-tower, that to the N. bear-
ing the arms of. Toledo , while that to the S. retains its interest-
ing old doors and is adorned with a statue of St. Julian by Berru-
guete. The gorge of the Tagus here is very imposing. To the right,
below the city- wall, is the Bafio de la Cava (see above).
*A quaint story is told of the building of this bridge. The architect
whilst the work was going on perceived tiiat as soon as the centres were
removed the arches would fall , and confided his grief to his wife. She
with woman's wit forthwith set fire to the centring, and when the whole
fell together all the world attributed the calamity to the accident of the
fire. When the bridge had been rebuilt again she avowed her proceed-
ing, but Archbishop Tenorio. instead of making her husband pay the ex>
penses, seems to have connned himself to complimenting him on the
treasure he possessed in his wife* (Btreet).
Those unio have not time to take the whole walk recommended at
p. 151 should, at least, cross the bridge and aaoend to (10 min.) I/utttra
S^Kora de le Cdbiza (PI. B, 7), the * View from which should not be missed.
To the S.E. of San Juan de los Reyes (p. 145) lay the Juderfa^
or old Jewish quarter. The rich Jews ^o lived here erected a
castle to defend their property. Near the site of this castle stands
the church of —
* Santa Maria la Blanca (PI. B, 5 ; fee i/2-l p.)} ^ building in
the Mud^jar style, originally erected as a synagogue, probably in
the 13th cent., and converted into a Christian church in 1406. In
1550 it was made into an asylum for penitent Magdalens, and in
1791-98 it was used as a barrack and storehouse. It is now under
the care of the ComUi6n de Monumentos, which has repaired its
ravages, though partly in plaster only. — We first enter a fore-court,
with garden-beds ; to the right and left are two very early basins,
used for the washing of feet. The exterior of the building is un-
pretending. It consists of a nave and double aisles, with three apses
added by the Christians. The 28 horseshoe arches are borne by
32 octagonal piers and engaged piers in the walls. The bases
are all in 'azulejo' work; the elaborate capitals are ornamented
with pine-apples, etc. The spandxels are filled in with charming
arabesque patterns. Above are a rich frieze Mid a triforium. The
Quarien. TOLEDO. 9. S&uU. t49
flat eeiling is of lafck. Tlie light enters by seven round openings in
^ side^walls, and by Bmaller openings in the W. wall, which was
fonnerly adjoined by the women's gallery. The tiled pavement is
line. A hind of eellai-door, to the right of the entrance, leads to a
erypt or vanlt below the chnreh.
Ck>ntinning in the same direction and crossing the Plazuela del
Bairio NmevOf we reach the —
*Siafl«og» d«i Trinaito (PL B, 6 ; fee Vrl pO» ereeted about
1300-66 by the Rabbi Mekr Abdelf at the expense of /Somtiet Levy,
the rich Jewish treasurer of Pedro the Cruel (p. 396), who was altei^
wards executed by order of his royal master. On the expulsion of the
Jews (1492) the 'Catholic Kings' handed over the building to the
Order of Calatrava and dedicated it to 8an Benfto, The present name
seems to refer to an old picture of the death or transition of the
Virgin. The church, which was restored in 1896, has no aisles. Its
walls are elaborately decorated with arabesques and friezes, which in
the delicacy and richness of their patterns are not inferior to those of
the Alhambra. A Hebrew inscription, below the arms of Castile and
Leon» celebrates the founder and the kings of Spain ; another con-
sists of extracts from the 83rd and 99th Psalms. The open ceiling
is of eedar , adorned with ivory. The light enters through small
grated windows (Ajim^ce$) in the upper part of the walls. Round
the bottom of the walls runs an embedded arcade, resting on engaged
columns with capitals of various forms. The high-altar occupies the
site of the pulpit whence the rabbis expounded the law. The paint-
ings of the rotable are poor, but the kneeling knight is said to be
the only extant portrait of Juan de Padilla (p. 144). In front of it
are the tombs of several Knights of Calatrava.
The PasiIo dbl Tbansito (PI. B, C, 6) is planted with trees and
affords Ane views. To the 8., high above the Tagus, rises the Car-
eel Frovineial (Pi. C, 6), or provincial prison, formerly the Cotwento
de lo$ Gilitot. Opposite, on the steep and rocky S. bank, is the
Ermita de Nuesira Senora de la Cabeza (p. 151). Below is the Pena
Tarpeyaj from which criminals were hurled into the ravine.
We now ascend to the N.£. to the Plaza de San Crist6bal (PI.
C, 6) and to the (left) Tau.^ dri. Mono (PI. C, 6), a dilapidated
building in the street of the same name, erected in the middle of
the 14th cent and long the workshop (taller) of the masons employed
on the cathedral (visitors ring at the gate ; fee Vr^ P-)* ^^ extant
remains consist of one large central chamber and two smaller ones,
all richly decorated in the Mudtfjar style. ^- The Calle de Santa
Ursula and the CaUe de la Ciud4d lead hence to the N.£. to the
Pkuuela M 4yuntami€mtQ (p. 141).
d. The Saitem duarten of the Citj.
To the N.E. of the cathedral lies the small Plaza Mayor (PI. D,
4, &), also known as the Plaza ReAl or PUi%a de Verduras (*vegetabl
ISO B&uie9. TOLEDO.
market"), the £. side of vhich is iMnnded by the TeeUro de Rojaii
(p. 127\ -^ From this plaza the narrow Callb d« la T&iferta (PU
D, E, 5) leads to the 6. to the prison of the Hermanddd (Fl. 6 ; D,
£, 5), with aa interesting Gothic portal of the 15th century. On
this are Bculptured the armorial bearings of the ^Catholic Kings' (see
p. 145), with the figures of an archer and an alguazil of the Her-
mandad. We then traverse the Plazuela de San Jnsto (PI. E, 5),
with the church of that name, and pursue the same diieetioA to the
Franciscan nunnery of —
San Juan de la Penitencia (Pi. £,5; no admission), which
Card. Xim^nez built in 1514, with the partial ineorporation of the
semi-Moorish palace of the Pantojas. It still retains many interest-
ing Moorish ceilings, corridors, and rooms. The GHimoH (entered
from the S. side ; fee 50 c.) exhibits a curious mixture of styles.
The ceiling of the nave and choir is Moorish ; the portal and choir
windows are Gothic; the rejas are plateresque ; and several of the
altars are baroque. On the left side of the choir is the Renaissance
monument of Franeisco Ruix, Bishop of A-rila (d. 1528), shaped like
an altar and profusely adorned with figures.
We now retrace our steps and proceed to the right through the
Cuesta de San Justo to the CorraUUo de San Miguel (PI. E,*', 5),
whence we look down into the deep ravine of the Tagus. The Cuesta
de Capu«hinos leads hence to the N.W. to the —
*Alc4zar (PI. E, 4, 5), which stands on the highest ground in
Toledo. The site was originally occupied by a Roman ^castellum",
which the Visigoths also used as a citadel. After the capture of the
city by Alfonso YI. the Cid resided here as 'Alcaide'. Ferdinand the
Saint and Alfonso the Learned converted the castle into a palace,
which was afterwards enlarged and strengthened by John 11., Ferdi-
nand and Isabella, Charles V., and Philip II. It was burned down
in the War of the Spanish Successien (1710), but was restored
by Card. Lorenzaiia in 1772-75. The French set fire to it in IBIO,
and in 1867-82 the building was once more restored and tamed
into a cadet academy. In 1887 the interior was gutted by a thivd
conflagration, and since then It has been finally restored. The W.
fa^de, built under the ^Catholic Kings', is uninteresting; the portal
is by CovarrHbias. The imposing S. facade, with its heavy rustica
pila.sters in the Doric style and its square comer-turrets, was built
by Martin Barrena from designs by Juan de Htfreta, The fortress-
like E. facade dates from the reign of Alfonso the Learned. The
N. facade, by Enrique de Egos, is eifective from its huge prQportlone
and its corner-iowers. The sculptures on the windows are by B&rru^
guetCy those of the N. portal by Juan de Mena. The N. terrace «o«a^
mauds a fine view. We thence enter the spacious ♦Patio, with its
double arcades of Corinthian «M)3um]>s. On the S. side of the court
is a handsome staircase by ViLUUpando and Hertm'a* .1^ the middle
stands a brou/.e group after Pompeo Leoni (original iu.the Prado Mu-.
YALL^GAS. /a. £ofK«. 15t
seam, p. 88), representing Charles Y. as the conqueror of Tunis.
This monument bears two inseriptionB : Quedartf muerto en Africa 6
eatnrtf yenced^r en Tnnez (1 shall stay In AfUea dead, or enter
Tanis as a vietor); 81 en peMaTeis caer mi caballo y mi estandarte,
levantad primero este que i mi (if in the battle you see my horse
and standard fall, raise the latter before raising me).
The following *Walk ia recommended (ca. IVthr. ; guide advisable).
From the Puente de San Martin (PI. A, 5 ^ p. 148) we uiceiid to the S.E. bv the
road on t!ie left bank of the Tagns to the ermita of Nuestra Beftera de la
Oabasa (PI. B, 7), which commands a splendid view of the city and of the
movotaitts to the 8. We then retrace our steps for a few hundred yards
and follow the road descending into the valley of the Cabeza. Farther on
we ascend again and proceed along the slope of the mountains to the
emita of La Virgm dU Valle (PI. E, 7« 8). Hence we descend into the
▼alley of the DtaoUdda (PI. F, 7), then ascaad and proceed towards the
K. to the Ca$HUo de 8am Servanda (PI. F, S: p. 142), above the Alcantara
Bridge (p. 142).
About 7 M. to the S.W. of Toledo lies the UtUe town of OiMKlamiir,
with the castle of Pedro Lope de Ayiila (15th cent.). The Vi!>igothic crowiw
mentioned at p. 96 were found at Gttarrazar^ near Guadamiir.
10. From Madrid to Saragosia.
212 IL, Bailwat (FtrrocarriUt d$ Madrid d Zaraooza y AlieanU) in
lOi/s-lS hra. (two trains daily; fares 39 p. 25, 30 p. 40, 18 p. 66 c). An
express train (tren expreu)^ with Ist and 2nd cla^s carriages only, also
runs thrice weekly (Mon., Wed., A Frid. ; in the reverse direction, Tnes.,
.Thurs., * Sati) firom Madrid to Baredoma vift Saraaona and Rea9 (eomp.
BR. 14, 19; to Saragossa 8V4 hrs., to Barcelona WJa hrs.); dining and
sleeping cars are attached to this train (berth in the Jatter, for first-class
passengers only, 23 p. ; to Sar^igossa 18 p. 80 c, from Saragossa to Barcelona
16 p. 10 c.). There are also two local trains daily from Madrid to Ouada-
lajara (p. 153). — Trains start in Madrid at the JEM'acidn dd Mediodia (p. 52) ;
in Saragossa at Zaragota-Sepulero and Zaragoza-Arrabdl (p. 163; express
from the first only); and in Barcelona at the Etlaeidn de Franeia (p. 194). —
DaarACHO Gsmtbai. (p. xvi) at Madrid, Calle de Alcaic 14-16^ at Saragoua^
Fonda del Universo ; at Barcti^na^ Rambla del Centro 5. — Railwat Kk-
8TACJKAMT8 at Madrid^Owidolajara^ Calatayud, Casetae, and Saroffossa. —
Passengers for Pampeluna (p. 175) or Miranda de Ebro (R. 12) change car-
riages in Camku {p. 158).
This railway-journey is one of the most beautiful in Spain ^ espe-
cially the part beyond Medinaceli. It is much finer than the main line
from Madrid to Burgos vi& Medina del Gampo (RB. 6, 1). The Ebro valley
line from Saragossa to Miranda is also very attractive. Travellers should
therefore try to select, either in going or coming, the route Madrid-Bara-
gossa-Miranda.
Madrid J see p. 52. — Tlie train quits tlie Estacion del Mediodfa
and sweeps lound the high S.E. quarters of the city, with the Ob-
servatory and the Buen Retire Park. It then intersects a chain of
marl hills and reaches — •
41/2 M. VaU€ca$, which aflfords an extensive view of the treeless
plateau of Castile. To the S. rises the Punto (p. 276). The Cerro de
AlmoddvoTj a hill to the E. resembling a blunted cone, is said by
Willkomm to consist of meersohanm (easeoU 01 piedra loca), — 7 M
152 /?©«<« 10. ALCALA. From Madrid
Vkdlvaro, in a dreary district with large quarries. To [the left are
seen the Gnadarrama Mts. At (12 M.) San Fernando j a royal demesne,
the train crosses the Jarama (p. i23), which descends from the N.
It then traverses the level valley of this river and intersects a range
of hills.
14^2 ^* Torrej6n de Ardo%j whence a diligence plies in summer
to (21 M.) the baths of Loaches (2130 ft.), with a palace of the Duke
of Olivares (d. 1643). To the right we now see the steep stony hank
of the HenareSf a feeder of the Jarama, and soon reach a green plain,
studded with poplars.
2IV2M. AletkLk de Henares (2015 ft] Fonda Hidalgo^ Plaza
Mayor 29), the Roman Compluium + and the Moorish al-Ka^ak (*the
castle')', is an ancient town with 14,700 inhabitants. It was the
birthplace of Cervantes and of Catharine of Aragon, the first wife of
Henry VIII. of England. From 1610 to 1836 it ranked with Salamanca
as the seat of one of the chief universities of Spain, attended in the
16th cent, by as many as 12,000 students, and the scene of the wild-
est pranks of the 'Estudiantina', or undergraduates^ societies. The re-
moval of the university to Madrid reduced the town to a shadow of
its former self. — In 1614-17 the celebrated Folyglot Bible^ known
as the Complutensian, was produced here at great cost by Cardinal
Xim^nez (p. 129), the founder of the university. Three copies of it
were printed on vellum, one of which is now in Madrid, -the second
jin the Vatican, and the third in the chateau of Chantilly.
The chief building of the town is the Colsoio de San Ildbfonbo,
in the Plaza May6r, erected by Pedro Gumiel and Bodrigo Oil de
Hontanon (p. 118) and finished in 1683. This was the seat of the
university. The facade and courts are fine. Above the entrance is
the inscription: Olim lutea nunc marmorea ('Once of clay, now of
marble'). From the third court, named the Patio TrilingOe, we enter
the ParaninfOj an amphitheatre in which the academical degrees
were conferred. The CapUla, built by Gil de Hontafion, contains a
fine reja in the Renaissance style.
The old Palaoio Abzobisfal is a fine edifice by Berruguete^ Co-
varrubiaSj and other architects, with large courts, handsome staircases,
and artesonado ceilings. Since 185B it has been occupied by the
ArcMvo HisUSrieo (open daily), containing a part of the Spanish
archives from Toledo, Simancas (p. 39), and other places.
Also in the S.W. part of the town, near the Archiepiscopal Palace,
is the CoLBGiATA, a church to which Pope Leo X. gave the right to
call itself La Magistral, It is in the Gothic style, but has been freely
modernized. This church contains the •Marble Monument of Card.
Xim^nez (d. at Roa in 1617), by Domenico Fancelli of Florence
(p. li) and Bartolomtf Ordoflez, formerly in the Capilla of the
College of San Ildefonso. At the foot of the monument are two
t Tke curate In ^Don Quixote* refers to it m tbe great Comphtto.
toSatagonu, GUADALAJARA. 10. EmOt, 153
aagels, ^bearing the proud epitaph. In front of the oapilla may6r
is a line reja by Jnan Frances. In the crypt are the remains of SS.
Jnstas and Pastor^ who suffered martyrdom at the ages of seven
and nine.
In the otherwise uninteresting church of Sanita Mairia^ in the
Plaza May6r (p. 162), Miguil Cervantes was baptized on Oet. 9th,
1647. A house in a narrow street near the station bears the inscrip-
tion: Aqui naeid Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra, autor del Don
Quijote. Por sn nombre y su ingenio pertenece al muiido ciyiJisado,
poT su cuna Alcala de Henares (afio de 1840). It is not, however,
quite certain that this was the house in which he was born. He died
at Madrid (comp. p. 107).
Beyond Alcala the railway traverses a pleasant region, watered
by streams descending from the Guadarrama Mts. Beyond (261/2 M.)
Meeo V e quit the province of Madrid. The names of the villages
betoVen the former presence of the Moors. — 29 M. Atuqtieca,
35V2 M. GuadjJ^axa (2100 ft. ; Fonda del Norte; Rail. Re$tau-
ranty. a city with 10,900 inhab., prettily situated on the left bank
of the Henares, is the capital of a province of the same name. It
was the Arriaca of the Romans and the Wad-al-HadJarah (Walley of
stones') of the Moors, and was taken from the latter by Ahar Yanez
de Mmaya (Arab. ^Albarhanis'), the companion-in-arms of the Cid.
The Aqueduct approaching the city from the hill to the £. is said to
be of Roman origin. The church of SaiUa Maria contains the image
of the ' Virgen de las Batallas^ which Alfonso VI. carried about with
him in his campaigns against the Moors. In the church of San OinSs
18 the monument of Pedro Hurtado de Mendoza and his wife Juana
de Valencia^ Alvar Yafiez (see above) is buried in the church of /San
Estibajn. The chief life of the place is due to the Acad£mia de Ingen-
ieroBj which occupies a building erected by Philip V. for a cloth
factory. — The great sight of Guadalajara is the large *Palacb of
THE DuQUB DEL Infantado, formerly the property of the Mendoza
family. It was built in 1461 et seq. for the Marquis Diego Hurtado
de Mendoza by Juan and Enrique Guas (p. 145), and exhibits a fan-
tastic, yet picturesque blending of the Gothic and the Mudejar styles.
The facade is very extensive. The elaborate sculptures of the arcades
of the Patio repay a close study. The Sola de los Linajes ('geneal-
ogies'), now a storehouse, has a fine artesonado ceiling, adorned
with gilding. The azulejos, coats-of-arms, chimney-pieces, and so
forth are still interesting in spite of their dilapidation. — Guadala-
jara possesses a pretty promenade called La Concordia^ and a small
Museo Provincial. The Bridge over the Henares was erected in 1768
on Roman foundations. — The great Cardinal Pedro Gonzalez de
Mendoza, the 'Third King' (pp. 133, 134), died at Guadalajara in 1496.
From Guadalajara a diligence runs in the season (June- Sept.) in 4 hrs.
to Trillo, a watering-place on the Tagus, with sulphur-springs. — A di^*
gence also pliea daily from Guadalajara in 9 hrs. to Oitenca (p. 276).
154 Route 10. SIGOeNZA. From Madrid
As the train proceeds, we approach the peaks of the Guadarrama
range, with the Puerto de Somosierra (4770 ft^, a once mnch-fre-
quented pass, and the Cerro de la CeboUera CGGoO ft). The Henares
forms the E. boundary of the *Roof of Spain^, the great central pla-
teau of Castile and Aragon, the red clay margin of which rises steeply
from the river, often washed out and deeply funowed.
41 M. Fontandr, amid olive-groves and vineyards. Farther on
are large fields of grain. — 43 M. Yvnquera. The eye wanders far
up the valley of the Henares. The train keeps to the left, traversing
a bleak hill-district. — 49^/2 M. Humanes. — We cross the Henares
and its affluents (Sorhe^ Albendiego, etc.) several times. The vine is
much cultivated. — 57 M. Espinoaa,
65 M. Jadraque (2690 ft), a small town with 1500 inhabitants.
In the distance, on a hill to the right, is seen the castle of the
Duke of Osuna. — The train soon leaves the fertile district, and
enters a desolate limestone region, where the rocks are sometimes
of a blood-red colour. Beyond (72 M.) Matillas the barren hills re-
semble sand dunes. — At (76V2 M.) Baides the train begins to as-
cend towards the plateau separating the valley of the Ebro from the
basin of the Henares. Three tunnels penetrate the barren hills,
which rise in step -like stages. Beyond this passage we enter a
grain-growing district, almost destitute of trees and resembling th^
bed of a lake.
87 M. Siguenza (3220 ft. ; Hotel de la Estacidn, D. 3 p.), an old
town and bishop' ssee, with 4400 inhab., prettily situated on the left
bank of the Henares, is said to have been founded by refugees from
Saguiitum. The ancient Segontia, however, probably lay 2 M. to the
E., on the site of the present Villa Vieja, The highest point of the
city is occupied by the massive Alcdzar^ now the bishop's palace. —
The Cathedral, in the Plaza Mayor, dates from the 11 -13th cent
and is one of the most important examples of the late-Romanesque
Transition style. The main doorway in the W. facade is round-
arched. The facade is flanked by two massive embattled towers, be-
tween which is a medallion representing the investiture of St Ilde-
fonso with the chasuble (casulla; p. 140). The arcades of the interior
are borne by 24 piers, each surrounded by 20 slender engaged shafts
with foliage-capitals. The best of the fine stained-glass windows is
the superb rose-window in the S. transept. The choir contains a good
SUlerfa (1490), and the Trascoro (1685) is richly adorned with
marble. The high-altar was erected by Bishop Mateo of Burgos in
1613, and the ambulatory is also of this period. In the N. transept
is the Capilla de Santa Librada^ the tutelar of the diocese, contain-
ing the saint's tomb and a handsome altar. The dark Capilla de San
Marcos contains an interesting triptych of the 15th century. The
banners in the Capilla de Santa Catalina were captured from the
English in 1589. The other treasures of the church include mon-
uments, screens, tapestry, ecclesiastical vessels and vestments, and
10 SofOfOisa. MEDINAGBLI. 70. Botile. 155
a libniy with about 200 MSS. -— The late-Gothic Cloiatera, flniahed
by Card. Bernavdo Oarvajal in 1507, also deserve a visit.
The altar-piece of the Romanesque church of San Vicente is a
Virgin by Morates, The Colei^o de SanJeHkUmo contains the tombs
of the Medinaceli and a classical court
The etimate of Sig&enza is distinctly northern in character, and
very healthy. The town is provided with good water by a handsome
aqseduet. The left bank of the Henares is bordered by pleasant prom-
enaded. — Cervantes describes DonQuixote^a neighbour, the learned
eunta, as a licentiate of Siguenza.
The railway now runs through a flat and barren mountain
valley to (90i/s M.) Aloimeta, a poor village on the right bank of the
Henares.
FJtoii Alcuvbka to Sobia^ 641/9 M., railway in 41/4 bra. (one train daily ;
fares 13 p. 90 c., 9 p., 6 p. 40 e.). — The chief intermediate station UAhmatan
(p. 18), the junction of the railway from Ariza tu ValladoUd (see below).
— lofia (34«) ft.), titaated on a Ueak platean on the ri^ht bank of the
ItaMTo, is a mediseval -looking town of t)600 inbab. and the eapiial of a
province of its own name. On a hill about 8 H. to the N., at the confluence
, of the Tera with the Duero and near the present Qarray^ lay the small
town of Numantia^ celebrated for its long and heroic struggles with the
Romans. It was not till B.C. 133 that the consul P. Cornelias Scipio
£niiHann« succeeded in taking and destroying it. — A diligence plies
from Soria to Ca$UJon (p. 175).
Our line ascends gradually towards the £. to the Sierra Ministra,
the waterslied between the Henares and the JalSn^ which flows to
the N. to the £bro. It reaches its highest point (3670 ft. above the
sea, 1540 ft. above Madrid) in the tunnel of Homa.
The descent hence to Saragossa (600 ft. above the sea) is steady.
We are now in the province of Soria, and at first follow the Jal6n.
The scenery is somewhat desolate, but becomes more attractive as
we proceed.
103 M. XediiuMeU (B320 ft.) was once an important Moorish
fortress, intended to eheok the advance of the Spaniards from
the N. It lies high above the railway to the left, and contains
the tombs of the celebrated Spanish family of Medinaceli y de la
Cerda, the head of which still claims to be the legitimate king of
Spain. — The line now traverses a picturesque rocky region and
threads several tunnels. Remains of old castles remind us that this
was once the highway between Castile and the plain of the Ebro.
— 113 M. Areas de Medinaceli. The geological formation here consists
of red argillaceous slate overlain by white limestone and gypsum,
the combinations being often very grotesque. 11 91/2 Mf- Santa Maria
de Huerta is a veritable oasis in the desert. Farther on the scene is
one of mountain-desolation, destitute of vegetation except at the
bottom of the valley, near the river. The train crosses the frontier
of the old kingdom of Aragon.
127 M. Axisa, the junction of a railway to Almazan (p. 18) and
ValladoUd (p. 36; carriages changed). The little town, which
158 RouU 10. CASETAS.
1901/2 M. Pldsincia de Jal6h lies in the midst of the gieen river
valley, while to the W. extends the desert mentioned above. To
the N., over the valley of the £hro, rise the bleak monntains of
Aragon. At (196V2 M.) OriaSn the railway turns to the S.£., almost
at right angles, and enters the broad valley of the Ebro, crossing
the Canal Imperidl (p. 173) and then the Jal6n. To the left run the
highroad and the railway from Saragossa to Navarre. We join the
latter at —
2O3V2 ^' Casetas, where passengers for Miranda and Pampeluna
(R. 12) change carriages. The two lines now run parallel down the
Ebro to (212 M.) Saragossa (p. 163).
n. ARAGON AND NAVARKE.
11. Saragossa 163
From Saragossa to Cariilena, 173.
12. From Saragossa to Castejon and Miranda de Kbro. . . 173
From Cortes to Borja. Sierra de Honcayo, 174. — From
Tadela to Taraxona. From Cast«(joii to Pampeluna and
Alaasua, 175. — From Calahorra to ArnedUlo, 177. —
Estella. Xavarrete, 178.
13. From Saiagossa to Tardienta and L^rida (Barcelona^ . 178
From Tardienta to Jaca vii Huesca, 179. — From Sarinena
to Sigens. From Selgaa to Barbastro, 180.
14. From Saragossa to Rens (Barcelona^ 180
From Pueblo de HJijar to Alcaniz, lol.
While the parts of N. Spain desoribed in Section I of this Hand-
book show a distinctly 'European' character, the traveller who visits
Navarre and Aragon is met at once by the features of a ^semi- African'
landscape. Such are the waterless and treeless deserts, coloured
like the ashes of a volcano ; the grey mountain-tonents descending
for miles over stony and trackless wastes ; the beautiful oases in the
depths of the valleys ; the parched villages, hardly distinguishable in
colour Irom the ground on which they stand ; the snow-clad peaks
that look down on this chequered landscape and visit it with fre-
quent tempests and thunder-storms. The journey down the £bro to
the ancient dty of Saragossa is a remarkable one, whether the start-
ing-point be Miranda or Pampeluna. Still more striking is the rail-
way journey from Barcelona, when we cross the eoast^mountains to
L<^rida, skirt the base of the Pyrenees in a sweeping curve, and then
run to the S. to the capital on the Ebro. No more startling contrast
can be imagined than that between the luxuriant vegetation of Ca-
talonia, on the seaward side of the coast-range, and the thirsty acres
of Aragon and S. Navarre, where it used to be said that it was easier
for the people to mix their mortar with wine than with the hardly
won water of the few scanty rivulets. On the one side, large and
prosperous seaports, the hum of industry and trade, the cheerful life
of the man in touch with the main stream of human affairs ; on the
other, loneliness, isolated towns in widely separated oases, exclus-
iveness, melancholy, bigotry, and poverty. The versatile Catalonian
is partly Greek and partly Roman ; the Aragonese is an Iberian pur
sangy the veritable descendant of the fanatic defenders of Numautia
and Calahorra. The passage from Catalonia to Aragon is like passing
from Greece to Egypt. The Ebro is by no means unlike the Nile,
and the sombre mood of the inhabitants recalls the pessimism of the
ancient Egyptians. In no district of Spain has the worship of the
160 ARAGON
Virgm del PUar (p. 167) taken root so deeply as in Aragon. Her
image is in every hut and hangs in gold or silvei round eyeryone's
neck ; she was the mighty Capitana^ under whose protection Sara-
gossa placed herself in the troublous times of 1808-9 (p. 165).
The former kingdom of Navarra corresponds to the modern pro-
vince of Navarra (4056 sq. M.; 308,000 inhab.), while that of Arag6n
includes the provinces of ZaragosMy Hueaca, and T€ru«2 (18,298 sq.M.;
922,564 inhab.). Together they occupy the basin of the Ebro, ex-
tending from the Ccmehaa del Ebro (p. 178) on the W. to the much
more copious Segre and the Catalonian frontier on the E. The S.
province of Teruel, a comparatively late accession, partakes of the
nature of the Gastilian plateau; and its waters gravitate towards Va-
lencia, a city that was long connected with Aragon.
The analogy between the basins of the Ebro and the Guadalqui-
vir has long been recognized by geographers. There the 'Great River*
flows between the central plateau on the N. and the Cordillera of the
coast on the S. ; here the Ebro runs between the same central pla-
teau on the S. and the mighty walls of the Pyrenees on the N.
There are an Alto and Bajo Arag6n in the N. , just as there are an
JJfper and Lower Andalusia in the S. Both districts were once cov-
ered by the sea, the shore of which was formed by the lofty edges
of the central plateau. While, however, Andalusia rose gradually
from the waves, the basin of the Ebro, in spite of its greater ele-
vation, long formed a great inland salt-lake, until at last the water
forced its way through the mountain-barrier at Tortosa (p. 239).
The same range of mountains that once formed the E. bound-
ary of the Ebro lake now bars the way of the moist E. wind of the
Mediterranean and thus causes the aridity from which Aragon suf-
fers. The ground consists mainly of subaqueous tertiary forma-
tions, such as marl, gypsum, clay, and unstratifled deposits. All
of these deposits, and especially the gypsum and marl, contain large
quantities of salt. Trees and shrubs do not flourish ; nothing grows
on the chalky- white, sun-cracked soil except a few scattered, neu-
tral-tinted, and tufted heath-plants. The few rivulets that intersect
these deserts contain brackish water. The only habitable districts
are those in which the salt has been sucked from the soil by the
larger rivers. In these oases, however, almonds, olives, flgs, and
other fruit-trees flourish, and many districts yield an excellent
wine. From the point of view of scenery, Aragon is also very dreary.
As soon as we reach the Ebro basin, we see nothing but endless
tracts of barren grey, melting in the distance into the blue of the
sky ; the vegetation of the deeply indented valleys either escapes
the eye or is visible on the edges only in the form of scanty groves
of evergreen oaks and greyish-green olives.
On the N.W. the Ebro valley is adjoined by the mountainous
'strict of Nayarke, with the fertile basin (euenea) of Pampeluna,
'■ beautiful valleys of the Pyrenees , and the celebrated pass of
ANI> NAVARKE. 161
RoBc«8VAlle«(p. 165). XoiheE. of Navarre lies the mountain-diatrtct
of SoBBAKBE, a name of which the interpretation ia doubtful. £veft
Navarre was long subject to the Prankish princes, but the Inaccessible
Sobrarbe Temained unconquered and shares with Asturias (comp.
p. 8) the glory of being one of the points of vantage from which
the liberation of Spain from the Moslems was accomplished. On the
N. this singular region is protected by the huge wall of the Pyrenees,
crossed by one or two very lofty passes (puertos) and dominated by
sharp-pointed pxuyos (called poyos in Navarre), amid the recesses
of which lie sequestered mountain-lakes (ibones). A little to the S.
mns the AVrra de la Fena, culmioating In the F«fla de OroH (5770 ft. )
and containing In the convent of San Juan de li Pena the resting
place of the oldest line of the ralers of Aragon. An equal interval
separates this range from the Sierra de Pena de Santo Domingo^
whi«'h is prolonged towards the £. by the Sierra de Quara. These
last two ranges are broken by the OdUego^ which flows into the
Ebro at Saragossa, while the Arag&n skirts the W. side of the Si-
erra de la Pefia and joins the Ebro at Haro (p. 178). The Arag6n,
which afterwards lent its name to the kingdom, is the chief af-
fluent of the Ebro above Saragossa, as is borne witness to in the old
distich:
Arga^ Ega y Aragdn Arga, Ega, and Aragon
Uaeen at Ebro vartfn. Make a man of the Ebro.
To the E. of Sobrarbe lies the isolated mountain - district of
RiBAGOBZA. This is the home of the so-called Criatianos Vlejos y
Raneio3, those genuine Aragonese of the old stock, who, in league
with the Cataloni.ins and Valencians,' once conquered Naples and
Sicily and made their name the terror of the Mediterranean. At their
so-called rondaUcu, or reunions, they seldom ceased their boisterous
scuffling till one or more of their number lay dead on the ground,
but at the present day they content themselves with contests in sing-
ing and dancing. The Jota Aragonesaj one of their national airs. Is
known far beyond the bounds of the peninsula.
The CosTUMB of the men of Aragon is picturesque and peculiar,
though that of the women is less striking. The men wear short black
velvet breeches, open at the knees, slashed at the sides, adorned
' with Innumerable buttons, and showing white drawers below« The
stockings and alpargatas (hempen sandals) are black. The body is
encased in a black velvet jacket, with slashed and many-buttoned
.sleeves, while round the waist is worn the faya, a broad and gaily
coloured sash, the folds of which serve as pockets. The usual head-
gear is a narrow silken kerchief, leaving the top of the head exposed.
The Navarros, on the other hand, though less frequently in the
'Ribera' (on the Ebro) than in the 'Montana' (to the N.), prefer the
boina of the Basques (p. 3), here usually called ehapelgorrf ('red
cap') from its favourite colour. In the colder season every one is
Babdkkkk's Spain. 11
162 ARAGON AND NAVARRE.
gracefully enveloped in the folds of his mania, the favourite hues
of VFhieh are blue and white.
Nothing in the history of Aragon is more remarkable than the
80-called Fueros de Solrarbe, the Magna Charta of the Aragonese
nobles, -which carefully safeguarded 4II their privileges and reduced
the power of the crown to a shadow. A special official named El
Jtisticia was appointed as guardian of these rights ; and an appeal
lay to bim from anyone who felt himself aggrieved by an act uf the
king. Among the provisions of these fueros were the following:
No$ que vaU/nos ianto como vos y podemo$ mas q%te vo$, os elijimoB
rey con tal que gardareU nuesiros fueroa y libertade$j y entre voi y
no8 tin que matida mat que vot; eino, no I
(We, who count for as much as you and have more power than
you, we elect you as king in order that you may guard our privil-
eges and liberties, and also one between you and us, who has
more authority than you. If not, not!)
Que siempre que el rey queJ^rantaste sue fueros, pudiessen eliyir otro
rey^ encora que sea pagano,
(If the king should ever break the fueros, they shall haye the
right to elect another king, even if he were a pagan.)
All the kings of Aragon, including Charles V. and Philip II.,
swore to observe the fueros, though breaches of the oath were not
unknown. The Rey Monje, associated for ever with the 'Bell of
Huesca' (p. 179), executed his rebellious nobles without troubling
himself about process of law. In 1348 Pedro IV, ^ surnamed El del
Fundi (^he of the dagger'), cut to pieces with his dagger the parch-
ment incorporating the Vwion, an alliance of the nobles involving
the right of rebellion against the king. In his haste he wounded his
own hand with his dagger and contemptuously exclaimed : tal fuero
satire de rey hnhia de costar ('such a charter must needs cost a king's
blood'). In 1591 the minister Antonio Perez fled to Saragossa to
appeal to the justiciary Juan Lanuta ; but Philip II. sent troops to
the city and executed the justiciary in the open market-place. This
was followed by a 'reign of terror', in which even to cry out 'liber-
tad' was to risk the penalty of death. The seat of power had whoUyi
shifted with the lapse of time, and in 1707 Philip V. formally
abrogated the fueros. In Saragossa the last defenders of the privil-
eges are commemorated by names like the Calle de Lanuza and the
Plaza del Justicia.
O' fj urn|ili Xm^L t. VVaguiH' i-DpIj? » , I-ft tp ;k it
163
11. Saragossa.
maawfty BUttMit. 1. Ettaeidn del SeMikro or d$ Madrid (PI. A, 8 (
re«Ufiraiit), in the W. part of the town, for the traini to Madrid (B. 10)
and for the line to Barcelona via Reua (RR. 14, 19 a). — 2. Xttatidn del Ar-
rabal or del Norte (PI. E, 1 ; restaurant), on the left bank of the Ebro, in
the suburb of Altavas, for the lines vift Gutcjon to Miranda de Ebro and
to Pampeluna and Alsasna (R. 12) and for the line to Barcelona vi& L^rida
(RR. 18, 17). These two stations are connected by a loop-line. — 3. Etta-
eidn de Carmma (PI. A, 4), in the 8.W. part of the town, for the local
railway to Carinena <p. ITaD. ~ Dxspacho OawTHiL (oomp. p. xvi) at the
Hdtel Caatro Kaelones, Galle de Don Jaime Primero. Oimti^ue Cfenerdl
from all trains (60 c, each trunk 90 c).
Hotala (comp. p. xz). *Hotel de lab Coatko Kacxonbs t del Umi-
TEBso (Fl. a; I>,8), Calle de Don Jaime Primero 52, in the centre of the
town (rooms facing the eonrt undesirable); Hot. ds Edkopa (PI. b^ D, 3),
Plaza de la Constitucidn 8, in a pleasant open situation , but rather hot in
summer; pens, at these two 8-10 p. — Fomda de EspaSa, Calle de San
Miguel 7 (PUD, 8, 4); Pohda de Pabis (PI. d; D, 8), Calle de Don Jaime
Primero 44; these two unpretending. — Om« dt Eii4af«das (p. xz);
Enrique Fandoty Calle de Don Jaime Primero 54.
Oafte (comp. p. xxii). Cqfi Suizo, AnUfoe Mundot, IHria^ Matoeei, aU in
the Calle de la Independencia ; C^fi de JParie^ in the W. part of the Coso;
Ce^f4 de Eurepa (see above), Oambrinue, Plaza de la Constituci6n. The
Gamaeha^ a sweet light-red wine of Cariiiena (p. 178), is worth a trial.
— Oanfeetiontr ( CenJIteria) : Cqfi dd Bnen Gusto (E. Molins), Calle del
Coso 23 and Calle de Alfonso Primero 2.
Restauraats. Cetfi de Europa, S6t. de ku Cualro Nacionee. see above |
neetemramt de Framcta, (3alle de Bst^anee 81 and Calle de Mendes Nu-
neaSe.
Vaat ft Tfli«Mph Ottaa {C9rr» 9 T^UgreifQ; Fl. D, 3), OaUe de la
Independencia.
Shops* Models of the Virgen del Pilar and other objects in gold and
silver may be boueht in the CalU de la Manl/eetacidn (PI. D, 2), formerly
the Flaleria (p. 170). •> Bookseller: CeeiUo Gaeea, Plaza de la Seo 2.
BaidBan: Mucemrna del Bemeo de E»pa§Ut (PI. D, 9). Calle del Coso 67.
~ JUmej Ghaagen: GuiUen Bermamoe^ Calle de las Escuclas Plas 7; Yi*
cente Ferrer, Calle del Alfonso Primero 3.
American Xission Church, Calle San Pablo 88.
Baths (Caeae de BaMoe), Calle de la Independencia 26 and Plasa de la
Constltucidn 5.
Oabs. One-horse cab with two seats per drive (carrera) '/i^ with three
seats 1 p., at night fl2*6) 2 p.; per hr. (hora) li/s or 2 p.; two-horse cabs
few 1-4 pen. I'/t, 2>/s, 8, 4 p. These fares refer to the inner town, includ-
ing the railway-stations, the Aljaferia, and the Arrabal. — Oarriaget
(Carrvajee de ImJo) may be hired of Joei Sola, Plaza de Santa Marta 7.
Omnibus to Ca$a Blanca (p. 173) 40 c, to Torrero (p. 172) 15 c, to the
Plata de Toroe (see below; on days of bnll-flghts only) 50c.
Tvamway* to the Rafheof Btatione, to Torrero (p. 172), and round the
Paeeoe of ttie inner town (Traneia de Circtmoakteion).
ThaatrMU Teatro principal (PI. D, 8), Calle de Don Jaime Primero;
T. de PignateUi (PI. C, 4), Calle de la Independencia; T. Circo (PI. D, 3, 4),
Calle de San Miguel. — BuU Ring {Plata de Toroe; PI. B, 2, 8), Calle de
PignateUi ; corridas in Aug. and on Oct. 13th and 14th (see below).
Pestivals. The chief festa is that of Oct. 22th, when the Virgen del
Pilar appeared to St. James (p. 167). The bull-fights are held on the
following daysu At this time Saragosea is thronged by pious pilgrims. —
On June 24th and 29th popular festivals are held at the Casa Blanca (p. 173).
164 RouUll, SARAGOSSA. SUuaiion.
Oittribution of Time. The two caUiedsals are open all day. The
other sights are shown aftei* notice gives, aact for the Aljaferia a special
permission is necessary. The .chief attractions of Saragossa are ifts aitaa-
fion, the quaint picturesqueness of the old town, and itsJS. environs., -r-
Those who cannot spend more than IVz day in San^ossa should devote
the first day to the Cathedrals (pp. 166, i6<), the Lonja (p. 166), tlie Cos^
de Zaporta (p. 169), the Audiencia (p. 170), and a walk through the Calle
de la Independencia to JSanta Engraeia (p. 172). On the next day they
may drive to the Torrero (p. 172), returning via the Cata Blanca (p. 175)
and the Alja/eria (p. 171).
Saragossa, Span. Zaragoza (600 ft.), with 71,700 inhab., the cap-
ital of a province of its own name, and the seat of a university, an
Audiencia, an archbishop, the captain-general of Ara^6n, and other of-
ficials, is the central point of the £bro basin, just as Seville is the
focus of the valley of the Guadalquivir. Though situated in the midst
of a desert (p. 159), the immediate sunbundings of the city form a
fruitful Huerta, watered by the Canal Imperial (p. 173), the £bro,
the Huerva, and the GNtllego. A striking view is obtained of the
great plain of Aragon, backed by the snow-capped summits of the
Pyrenees. The historical associations of Saragossa are more inter-,
esting than those of either Valencia or Seville, and it yields the palm
to Granada alone in significance for the cultivated visitor.
The Olimatb (comp. p. 160) is comparatively mild, and the
winters, in spite of the higher latitude, are less cold than those of
Upper Andalusia. The summer^ however, is quite as warm as that
of Lower Andalusia. The cold W. wind is known here as Cierno^ tiie
Warm £. wind as Bochomo (whence the n^mA aboehomado^ meaning
parched). The CcuteUano, blowing from the heights of' the Castilian
plateau, is cold in winter and hot in summer. The N. wind is called
Solano, The most charming season in Saragossa is April and May,
when the wheat- fields are waving in full luxuriance. and the night-
ingales are piping among the willows on the river. The city is Sur-
rounded by country-houses, known here, as at Barcelona, as torres.
The construction of the Canal Imperial aloiig the height to the S.
has led io the erection of many mills and fatitories. On every side
water-courses are seen running through the gardens and fields.
Since the opening of the four railways Saragossa has been mak-
ing steady progress. The ancient nucleus of the city, with the
curious 'solares' of the noblesse and patricians, in which each house
was a fortress, has been maintained almost unchanged. All round,
however, new streets have been constructed; and the scene of the
bloody contests for which Saragossa. is famed is now ocoopiedby the
finest quarter of the city. Thus the Saragossa of to-day may daimte
show at once the characteristics of the oldest and th« newest of
Spanish cities.
The History of Saragossa, the Iberian Saidvba^ begins with tlie l^m^
peror Augustus, who recognized its advantageous position. in the centre 6t
the Ebro basin, with the Gi^llego flowing to the K. and the Huerva and^
Jal(5n flowing southwards towards the central plateau. He accordingly
recognized it as the Colonia Gaetar-Angittta (whence its present name) and
ibade it the seat of a ^convtntus juridicus' (p. 231): [bome scanty traces
Hittory. SARAG08SA. //. RouU. 165
of tbe old Bomaii wtllB are prMerted 4t tbe Convento del Sepulcro: PI.
E, 2, 8.1 Tbe Saevi, under Bechiar, captiued the town in 4o2, and tlie
Vifligoths took it in 476. It was the first city in the peninsula to reject
the AHaa hereby, and in 538 it offered an obstinate resistance to the
Franks under Cbildebert and Lothaire II. When the Moors overran the pen-
insula, £faraetula fell to the share of the Berbers. In 777 their Bheikb,
BtOtimAm si^^JroM, Viceroy of Barcelona, sent messengerfl to Paderbom to
nsk Charlemagne to come to their aid agiiinat the Emir 'Abderrahmia I.
of Cordova (p. 906\ Charlemagne responded to the invitation, bat the
undertaking waa entirely unsuceessfal. A rising of the Saxons forced the
aerman nonardi to raise the siege of Steagossa, and in recroasing the
Pyrenees he lost a large part of his army at tbe famous pass of Roncts-
vdttes. In 1118 At/onto I. of Aragon (el Batatlador) succeeded in taking
Saragossa from the Moors after a war that lasted five years and a siege
thftt lasted nine raontlti. The city then became the capital of Aragoa.
but it lost much of its importance through the marriage of Ferdinana
a^d Isabella and the removal of the royal residence to tbe more central
C stile. In the War of tbe Spanish Succession the English under Stan-
hope defeated the French here (Aug. 20tb, 1710), but it was too late to
make good the disastrous battle ofAliuansa (p. 278). — Saragossa attained
the pinnacle of its fame in the Spanish War of Liberation, when the un-
fortified town defended itself for months against the army of Fr.>nce under
four mvshalH, and succumbed at last, like Oerona (p. 1^), rather to fam-
ine and pestilence than to the arms of its besiegers. Then it was tiiat its
hr^ve defenders coined the famous phra-ses guerra al euchillo (Var to the
kftifel and katUt la ^Hma lapia (Ho the Ia<>t wall"). The courageous *Maid
of Sarafosaa^ is known to all from the glowing stanras of Byron's ^ChiMe
Harold' (I. 54 et seq.) and by the numerous pictures of her, based on
Wilkie's portrait, that were scattered broadcast over Europe.
The «*oryof the famous Dsfencb of Saragossa is as follows. On
M 7 95th, 180S, the citizens of Saragossa, inspired by the rising of the
D^fl de Mayo (p. 67), orgaaixed themselves for resistance to the Frenoh,
under leaders ha<'tily elected for the purpose. The nominal chief of theae
W'as Z>o» Jot^ Ptdafox^ a courageous but otherwise inefficient young roble-
nan, who was a native of the city. By his side stood SmMagh 8at^ a
priest who bad great influence with the masacs, and the popular ^Tic^ Jorge
Jbort ('Uncle George"), with his two peasant lieutenants, Mcariano Cerezo
and Tio Marin. Their total means of defence consisted at first of 220 men,
1(K) daroe, a few anti<iuated muskets, and 16 cannon. Mirsbal Lefebvre
began the siege oi June 16th, 1806, but had to abandon it on Aag. 15th
in consequence of the catastrophe of Baile'n (p. 302). In December the
city was again in^e^ted by a French army of 18,000 men; its fortifications
eoasicted of a wall 10-12 ft. high and 8 ft. thick. The citizens bad further-
more neglected to enclose in their lines the Jesuit convent on the left
bank of the Ebro and the high-lying Torrero (p. 172). The siege began
on l>ee. 21st, 1806, and lasted, under the conduct of four Marshals of
France (Lannes, Mortier, Moncey, and Jnnot), till Feb. 20fb, 1809. The
French at last penetrated the line; of the defence near the convent of
Santa Bngracta (p. 172); but erery house had to be captured separately,
and their losses wero tenrlMe. Similar hard-fought contests went on on the
W., near the Portillo (p. 171), and on the E., round the Pnerta. del So).
It was not till after three weeks of this street-fighting that the ^Testarudos
Aragotieses\ whoj^e heads were said to be hard enough to drive a nail,
were finally forced to surrender. Since then Saragossa has proudly and
justly borne the title of dempre herdica.
Tbe *Pii«iite do Piedrs (Pi. E, 2), a stone bridge of seven
•nhes, connects ihe old town with the N. snhnrb of Arrahdl or Al-
taods. It dates from 1447, and its main arch has a span of 128 T
It commands a fine view of the ctty, with its two cathedrals, and
the river lip ito the railway-bridge. On the ]rigbt bank the wh
1^6 Route J 1, SARAGOSSA. La 8eo,
river-front of the city Is occupied by the PasSo dd Ebro^ a series of
wide quays affording excellent views.
Entering the old town by the former Piierta del Angel (PI. E, 2),
we have the Seminario Conciliar (priests' seminary) and the PalcLcio
AnobUpal to the left and the Cam de Ayuniamimio and the Lonja to
the right.
The *L0]ga (PL D, E, 2), or Exchange, completed in 1561, is
a handsome Renaissance bnildlng, with a leaning towards the pic-
turesque plateresque style. The principal facade, rising in three
stages, with a mezzanine, is turned towards the Calle de la Lonja.
The bold overhanging cornice is attractively adorned with enriched
mouldings, coffered soffits, and Doric mutules. The unpleasing
corner-turrets were probably later additions.
The *Intebiob fadm. on application at the town-hall; fee 50 c.) con-
sists of one great hall, roofed with Gothic groining and divided into three
aisles by rows- of Ionic columns, to which pilasters on the walls correspond.
Over the capitals are coats-of-arms with eagles or angels as supporters.
Round each colamn, about 12 ft. from the ground, runs a fantastic frieze,
with curious masks, monftsrs, and the like.
In the Plaza de la Seo rises the venerable Gothic cathedral of *La
Seo (i.e, sedes or see; PI. £,2, 3), dedicated to the Saviour and
erected in 1119-1620 on the site of the principal mosque of the
Moors. The axis of this large, quadrangular, somewhat amor-
phous building runs from S.W. to N.E. The ordinary entrance is the
large N.W. portal in the Plaza de la Seo, erected by Jidian Yar%a
In. 1683. Adjoining this rises the octagonal Towef., built by Juan
BaxUUta ContirU in 16S6 and consisting of four stages. The upp^
part was injured by lightning in 1860. The ascent (208 steps) is
not recommended.
The principal entrance is on the S.W. side, in the small Calle
de la Pabostria. This leads into the Pavorderfa^ oi vestibule, built
by the Moor Al-Rami in 1498 and covered with fine Gothic vault-
ing, with large brazeii rosettes. The corbels and rosettes are adorned
with charming figures of angels and with lambs carrying banners.
The Main Portal itself, with its beautiful sculptures, is largely con-
cealed by unsightly wooden doors.
The Intebiob, almost square in plan, is somewhat dark, being
practically dependent for light on eleven small round openings in the
N.*W. wall. It has double aisles and a rectangular choir; the N.W.
and S.E. sides are flanked with chapels. The general arrangement of
the spacious building resembles that of a Moorish mosque ; and it is a
little difflcult, especially in entering from the N.W., to find one's
bearings, as many members are inorganically displaced, as in the
mosque of Cordova. Thus the cimborio does not rise above the crossing
but farther to the S.E. Th6 slender pillars are surmounted by elab-
orately sculptured capitals, and the vaulting is adorned witJi gilded
borders of somewhat heavy bosses by the Moor Musa (1482). The
LaSeo. SARA00S9A. 11. Route. 167
niarble flooriug, of & later period, is articulated by brown and red
stripes corresponding to the ribs and bosses of the groining aboTe.
The Caro contains a magniflcent reja, a silleria with 68 italls and
the archbishop's throne, a large faeialol or reading-desk, and 22
colossal eholr-books. The TroMcro, by TudeliUa de Torosona (1638),
is adorned with statues of SS. Lawrence and Vincent. In the middle
of it is a TabemaeU with black and white twisted columns, mark-
ing the spot where the 'Crislo de U Seo* spoke to Fune$, one of the
canons of the cathedral.
The retablo of the high-altai, with its representations of scenes
from the li^es of Christ and the Saints, is by Dalmau de Hut (1466).
At the sides are the Transfiguration and Ascension by Ftdro Juan
de Tana$(ma, A^acent are the sedilia of the officiating clergy and
the tombs of seYeial ssembers of the royal house of Aragon.
The octagonal cimborio, originally erected by Archbp. Pedro de
Luna (d. 1382), was restored by Enrique de Egaa In 1606-20. Fer-
dinand the Catholic was baptized below it in 1466.
Most of the side-chapels are uninteresting. The *CapiUa de
San Bernardo^ to the left of the S.W. portal, contains the handsome
monument of Archbp. Fernando, grandson of Ferdinand the Catholic,
and also that of Ana Gurrea, his mother, both by Diego Moflanee
(16th cent). The marble relief of the Last Judgment, in the same
chapel, is ascribed to Beeerra. — Gabriel Zaporta (d. 1679 ; comp.
p. 169) is buried in the CapiUa de San Miguel. — The Capilla de
Maria la Blanea contains the tombs of several prelates. Its builder
was Pedro Arbuts (p. 167), the notorious inquisitor, who was mur-
dered by Vidai Durant below the crossing of this cathedral in
1486, and is buried here under a baldachino with spiral columns.
He was beatified in 1664 and raised to the honour of full saintship
by Pius IX. in 1867. His kneeling figure is by Jo$£ Ramiret,
The Saerieifay entered by a handsome doorway, contains several
ternos (embroidered vestments) ; a chasuble with a representation
of Adam and Eve, brought from Old St. Paul's at London ; a chalice
of 1666; and a beautiful silver *Cuslodta of 1637, on which the
King of Aragon swore to observe the fueros. — In the adjoining Sola
Capitular are paintings by Ribera and Zurbaran, The tiled floor-
ing was executed at Valencia in the beginning of the 19th century.
The next step of the traveller should be a visit to the Yirgea
del Pilar (PL D, 2), the second cathedral of Saragossa, the coloured
^azulejo* domes of which rise picturesquely over the waters of the
Ebro and the trees of the Plaza del Pilar. It possesses the great
magnet of the pilgrims to Saragossa in the shape of the sacred pillar
(eolumna immobilie) on which the Holy Virgin appeared to St. James
on Oct. 12th when ou his missionary journey through Spain. The
shrine containing it is always surrounded by kneeling worshippers,
and a specially elaborate celebration is held on Feb. 22nd. — The
168 Bouttll. SARAGOSSA. Virgen del PUar.
original building on this site vas merely a small chapel of the Virgin,
which was afterwards sarronnded by a series of cloisters and chapel».
The present cathedral, which is 436 ft. long and 220 ft. wide, was
begun in 1681 by Francisco Herrera (el Moto) In the style of the
cathedral of Valladolid (p. 37), and was continued by Ventura Ro-
diiguez in 1753 et seq. It was completed, except for three still lack-
ing corner towers, within the present century.
The Intbhios, entered by four unimposing doorways. Is a rect-
angle, divided into nave and aisles by two rows of columns and
fringed all the way round by a series of chapels. To the W. is the
cathedral, including the choir and high-altar and embracing about
three-fifths of the whole; to the E. is a second church, the high-
altar of which is represented by the chapel of the Virgin at the W.
end. The two high-altars thus stand back to bach. Above the aisles
rise the small cupolas, gay with coloured tiles (^azulejos'); the cen-
tral dome, untiled, is above the high-altar, while a still larger dome
covers the chapel of the Virgin.
The VT. church contains the old Ooro, with the handsome silleria
by Giovanni Moreio of Florence (1642), consisting of 115 stalls ar-
ranged in three rows. The admirable reja is by Jtum Celma (1574).
The *High Altar, in the Gothic style, is made of alabaster firom the
quarries of Escatron (p. 181) and was executed by Damian Forment
(1510), an artist said to have been bom in Valencia and trained in
Italy. It is adorned in the most elaborate manner with scenes from
the life of the Virgin, partly painted and gilded, but unfortunately
much mutilated. In the middle is the Assumption. The three large
canopies with their figures are especially worthy of note. At the
very top are two angels supporting the 'Virgin of the Column'. Below,
to the right and left, are figures of SS. Braulio and James, the hands
of which are frequently kissed by the devout.
The Cafilla de Nubstra Sbnoba del Pilab (best visited in
the afternoon^ as masses are being said all the morning) is a rectangle,
entered from three sides and surmounted by an oval dome borne by
four Corinthian columns of marble, with gilded capitals. Through
the openings we see a second cupola, borne by four large pillars and
adorned with frescoes by Antonio Velazquez (1793). The chapel is
surrounded by four smaller cupolas, painted by Bayeu and Ooya.
The handsome marble floor is generally protected by boarding. In
the W. wall of the chapel are three recesses, containing altars lighted
by silver lamps; Over the altars in the centre and to the left aire
marble groups of the Virgin surrounded by angels and 8t. James
with his disciples. Above that to the right are the almost invisible
*Pilar' and an incense-blackened wooden image of the Virgin, with
the Holy Child and a dalmatica. These three altars are screened by
a costly silver reja. At the back of the wall containing them is a
hole to allow the devout to kiss the pillar within. Below the chapel
is a crypt for the coffins of the clergy.
Caw de Zaporla. SARAGOSSA. U. Route, \ 69
Among tbe monomenis in the lide-ehapets are those of the J)u-
que de MonUmar (d. 1763), » general of Philip V., and General
Manuel de Ena (d. 1861; near the main S.E. entrance). — The
SaerisUa Mayor ^ the SaerigUa de la CapiUa del PUoTy and the Sagrario
contain some relics of the former treasures of the churchi the ^Tesoro
de la Yirgen', and her costly ^Qarderobe'. An Ecee Homo, ascribed
to Titian, is really by Franee^eo Potencia$io of Palermo (16th cent.).
In the Pas^o del Ebro, a little farther to the W., is the church
of San Juan de lo$ PaneUt (PJ. D, 2), with a curious tower. — To
the S.W. is the PUua del Mercado (p. 170).
Threading our way through the narrow streets to the S.E. from
the (^thedral of the Pilar, we pass many picturesque houses and
regain the Gai.ls ds Don Jaimb Piuiibbo (PI. E, 2, D, 8). In this,
to the right, is the church of Santiago (PI. D, 2, 3), built upon the
spot where St. James is said to have passed the night. The tower
contains an ancient Visigothic bell (campana goda). The rotable of
the high-altar is handsome.
In the Oalle de San Jorge (PI. D, E, 3), which diverges to the
left a little farther on, is the *CMa de Zaporta or dela Infanta
(No. 10), a handsome, now somewhat dilapidated Renaissance dwell-
ing'house, buUt in 1560 by a rich citizen named Oabriel Zaporta,
Through the portal, which is adoned with a charming frieze of
amoretli, we enter the Fatio, with eight columns sapporting an open
arcade. The columns consist in part of figures of nymph*) and satyrs,
which grow, as it were, out of the elongated haae. Other human and
animal tigurea hear the architrave, which is covered with portrait-medal-
lions and fantaatic forms of various kinds. The balustrade of the upper
^tory is also formed of supporting figures, alternating with medalhuns,
reliefs of the laboars of Hercules, and delightful groups of amoretti. Above
these rise slender and graceful columns, bearing sculptured arches. The
spandrel) are also filled with quaint figures and relicts, and there is hard-
ly an inch of the projecting oniice that is not carved Into beauty. —
A large 8taixcab£ ascends to the upper gallery. The balustrade is richly
adorned with reliefs, and the octagonal cupola, round which runs a gallery,
has an exquisitely carved artesonado ceiling. Three of the comers are
occupied by groups consisting of a knight and two female musicians; the
group in the fourth omer is composed of figures sunk in earnest medi-
tation. Between each two corners are two shell-fecesses, containing half-
length figures of a man and woman.
To the S."W. the Calle de Don Jaime Primero ends at the CalU
del Coso and at the Plaza db la Con8Tituci6n (PI. E, 3). The
former, the name of which is connected with the Latin ^fossa'
(ditch), skirts the S. side of the old town. In the middle of the
latter, which is the focus of modern Saragossa, is the Fuenie de la
Sangre, a pretty fountain commemorating the bloody struggles of
1809. On the S.E. side stands the H6iel de Earopa ; on the N.W.
are the Qdbiemo Chil and the Diputacidn Provinrial, containing
numerous 'fueros*, 'actos de la Corte de Aragon\ and other docu-
ments. — To the S. of the plaza is the Calle de la Jndependencia (see
p. 172).
FoUovlng t1i« Coco to the N.W. , we pass tite palace of the Con
no Route 1 1. SARAGOSSA. San Pablo.
de Azarra (No. 29 ; right), with a fine patio, and two other handsome
palaces to the left (Nos. 64, 66). No. 1 , to the right, la the —
*Aiidieneia (PI. 0, 3; fee to conserje V2-^ P-)' ^^^ former
palace of the Counts Lma^ a noble family to which belonged the
Anti-Pope Benedict Xin. (p. 246) and the *Trovatore' of Verdi's
well-known opera. In 1809 this house was the headquarters of
Palafox (p. 165). To the populace it is known as the Casa de los
Oigantes, from the two gigantic figures at the doorway. The facade,
flanked by low comer-towers, is simple and aristocratic ; the row of
fine windows in the upper floor is surmounted by a heavy cornice.
The relief over the doorway represents Pope Benedict entering
Saragossa. In the t>impanum above are the arms of the Luna family
(a moon), and these are repeated with more detail on the central
column of the vestibule leading to the patio. The npper story of
the latter is borne by 14 Ionic columns. The court-rooms preserve
their fine old wooden ceilings.
The suppressed Dominican convent of Stmta Fi^ to the S. of the
Andiencia, was long the home of the Aeademia d« Bellas Artea, but was
pulled down as unsafe in 1B96. The collections are not at present access-
ible; they consist of Roman, Moorish, and Christian antiquities, and of
about 200 early-Flemish, Spanish, and Italian paintings.
The Casa del Conde de ArgoUo, now the Colegio de San FSlipe,
stands in the Plaza de San F^ipe (PI. 0, D, 2, 3) and is notable
for its effective cornice and its arcaded, though somewhat dilapidated,
patio. — The celebrated Torre Nuevo in the same plaza, a leaning
tower in the Mud^jar style, had to be taken down in 1892.
To the W. of the old town lies the Plaza del Mb&cado (PI. G, 2),
a picturesque market-place, which exhibits a very lively scene on
Sun. and in the moniings. — Many interesting features are possessed
by the narrow streets to the £. of the plaza, such as the Calle de Roda
and the Platerfa, or street of the goldsmiths, now named the Calle
de la Manifestacidn (PI. D, 2). — The streets to the W. of the Mer-
cado present an admirable picture of Saragossa as it was before the
siege of 1809. Almost every house here is a specimen of the genuine
Aragonese style. Some of the curious patios should be entered,
such as those in the CaUe de San Blot and the Calle de San Pizblo
(No. 19, Posada de San Bias).
The old church of ♦San Pablo (PI. C, 2), probably built in the
Transition style about 1259, has an octagonal brick tower, elabor-
ately adorned with coloured and glazed tiles (^azalejos'), especially
on the upper stages. According to Mr. Fergusson, 4t might pass for
a church in the Crimea or the steppes of Tartary'. The N. portal, in
the Calle San Bias, is adorned with figures and Gothic ornament-
ation. From the S. portal we descend by a flight of twelve steps
to the interior of the church, which is divided into nave and aisles
by six pillars. The core, with Its fine silleria of 1600, is at the W.
end; and above it is the organ. The aisles are continued round the
Aljrfferfa. SAKAGOS&A. U. Ro^Ue, 171
kigh-altoT, tlie retablo of wliich is aseribed to Dnmian Forment
(p. 168). TheCapilla de San Migu^L, to the S.W., eontains the
monument of DUqo de Monrealy Bishop of Huesca (d. 1607).
In the W. part of the city , 2/8 M* ^'om the Mercado , is the
church of Nuettra Senora del PortUlo (PI. A, 2). Close by is the
open Puerto of the same name, vhere Maria AguHin, the 'Maid
of Saragossa* (p. 165), fought by the side of hex lover, who was an
artilleryman. When he fell, she took the lintstock from his dying
hand and worked the gun herself.
*Her lover sinks — sbe sheds no ill-timed iear^
Her ehief is slain — she Alls bis fatal post;
Her fellowB flee — she cheeks their base career ^
The foe retiree ~ she heads the sallying host.
Who can appease like her a lover^s ghost?
Who cin avenge so well a leader's fall?
What m- id retrieve when man's flushed hope is lost?
Wbo hang so fiercely on the flviug Gaul,
Foird by a woman's hand, before a batter'd wall?*
{ByrofCt »Childe Harold', I. 56.)
To the W., outside the gate, stands the Castillo de la Aljaferia
(PI. A, 2), built by Sheikh Abu Dja'far Ahmed of Saragossa, and
afterwards the residence of the kings of Aragon and the palace of
the Inquisition. It was the prison of Antonio Perez (p. 162). In
1809 it was in great part destroyed, but it has since been restored
and now serves as barracks. Visitors are admitted by permission
from the commandant, armed with which they present themselves
to the sentinel at the second gate to the right and are assigned a
sergeant as guide (fee 1 p.). After traversing two or three rooms
containing arms, we are led to those of the older apartments that
are still to some extent preserved. In the 8al6n de Altoba was born
(1271) St. Elizabeth (Santa Isabel , p. 670), daughter of Peter III.
and Constance of Sicily. Other rooms have fine artesonado ceilings
with the arms of the ^Catholic Kings* (p. 146) and their omnipresent
motto iairdo monta ('thus far he mounts*). The most important is
the *Oran 8al6n, the superb ceiling of which is divided into 30
compartments, each with a rosette and a pendant pine- apple. The
gallery. In a kind of Moorish style, bears an inscription of 1492.
The old azulejo patterns of the floor can still be made out. The
great ^StaiteoM, its balustrades, and its ceiling are all elaborately
adorned. A horseshoe arch at the foot of the staircase leads to the
Moorish Mosque or MeBquUa. with the MaksHra (p. 311), which is
still effecttve in spite of the ravages of time and whitewash. The
guide shows the 'Torreta', supposed to be the dungeon in *I1 Tro-
vatore* (p. 170), and also points out the castle of Castejar (p. 174),
mentioned in the drama by Oarefa Gutierrez from which the libretto
of the opera is borrowed. The N. windows command a flne view of
the Ebro and the Pyrenees.
We now return through the Puerta del Portillo and proceed to the
right, past the Btdl Ring (p. 163), to the Hospicio Pbovinoiai
M'2 Route 11, SARAGOSSA. Torrero,
(PI. B, 3), a large poorhouse, the upper windows of which command
an excellent view.
The ♦Callb db la. Indbpbndbncia (PI. D, 0, 3, 4), which runs
to the S.W. from the Plaza de la Constituci6n (p. 169), contains the
chief caf^s of the city and affords a charming promenade. The houses
on the W. side are preceded by an arcade. At the end of the street,
to the left, is the Teatro PignaUlli, Behind this theatre, to the E.,
lies the well-known convent of —
Santa Engr&oia (PI. G, D, 4), built in the richest Gothic style
by the 'Catholic Kings', completed by Charles V., and partly destroyed
at the beginning of the siege of 1808. The fine marble •Facade
is adorned with statues of Ferdinand and Isabella and a double
row of 33 angels' heads over the doorway. All these sculptures are by
Joan and Diego Afortone«(1605). The door leads to the subterranean
Iglisia de las Santas Masaa or de Los Mdrtires, so called because many
Christian martyrs were interred here. In 1819 it was tastelessly
restored. From the vestibule, with its pila bautismal (font), we
turn to the left into the church proper, which consists of a nave aad
double aisles. On the walls are some old pictures and four tablets
bearing a Latin poem by Aurelio Prudencio in praise of the martyrs
of Saragossa. The church also contains two Early- Christian Sarco-
phagi of marble, and in the middle of it wells up a fountain said to
spring from the blood of the Christians martyred under Dacian.
The EzcuBsioN to thb Tobbbbo, IV2 ^* ^0 the S. of the Plaza
de la Constituci6n (tramway and omnibus, see p. 163), is well woxth
making. We ascend the Calle de la Independencia to (10 min.) the
Plaza de Aragon (PI. C, 4), which contains a statue otB^monPigna-
telli , builder of the Canal Imperial (p. 173), and then quit the
city by the Puerto de Santa Engraeia(¥\, C, 4). In front of us flows
the rapid Huerva. To the right runs the Paseo de la Lealtad. We
keep to the left, cross the Huerva, and reach the shady road leading
to the Torrero between manufactories, schools, villas (torrtB), and
pleasure-gardens (campos eliseos). Numerous water-channels (acf"
quias)^ diverging from the Canal Imperial, irrigate the fertile soil.
In about 10 min. we cross the AcSquia de Adidas (7!28 ft.) and then
ascend to (10 min.) the Torrero. To the right, at about the same
level, are the City Water Works ('dep6sitos de agua').
The •Torrero (770 ft.), with the domed church of 8(m Fernando
and the old convent of Monte Torrero (now a barrack), is one of the chief
fortifications of the city (comp. p. 165). It rises close to the Canal
Imperial, with the harbour of Saragossa, constructed in 1788. To
the W. the canal is crossed by a bridge; to the E. a good road leads
along its bank. Adjacent is the AcSquia de MirafloreSy flowing into
the Huerva. This road leads in about 12 min. to a bare^hill (to the
left), which affords a splendid ♦View of Saragossa, the valley of the
CagaBiantfa. SARAGOSSA. li. RtmU. 173
fibro , and the mountainfl which rise one over another to the N. : Sierra
deAloibierre, Sierra de Quara^ Sierra de ia Pelia (de Oroeljy and the
Pyrentee. This prospect is most imposing about sunset.
To the W. of the Tonero we may walk along the canal to the
Buena Vista, which commands a similar *Vlew, and to the top of
the Montayo (p. 174). Farther on the canal crosses the Huerva, and
beyond the viaduct is an olive-grove, through which we may proceed
to the Oma BImnoft (rail, station, see below), at the end of the
Huerta. Here is an inn, where popular festivals are celebrated with
great merriment on June 24th and June 29th. It was here that
Marshal Lannes signed the stipulations for the surrender of Saragossa
(p. 165). — We may also return to the town via the Aljaferfa (p. 171).
- The Oaatl Imperii! d« AragOB, began in 1608 under Charles V. and
■ever iliiished, sUrts at the Bocal del i7«y, 3 M. below Tudela (p. 175), and
fellows the right bank of the Ebro to FuenttidtEbro (p. 181). It is abouieOM.
loi^, TD ft. wide, and 10 ft. deep. Since the opening of the railways it
is used only for irrigation \ and in this capacity it is the principal source
of the exuberant fertility of the right bank of the Ebro. The canal runs
over very uneven ground and ia at places much higher than the Ebro
(120 ft. at Saragossa) i thus it often regains a lower level by veritable
waterfalls.
Fbom Sabaqossa to CASiffuiA, 29 M., railway in 2 hrs. (1st class 6 p. 30,
8rd class 2 p. 65 c). The train sUrts from the local station mentioned at
p. 163. The first intermediate station is (2Vs M.) Cata Bamca (see above).
• Oaxilena is a town of 3100 inhab. in the wine-growing Campos de Ca-
Dttigences run hence to Daroca (p. 167) and Teruil (p. 361).
18. From Saragogsa to Caatojon and Miranda de Ebro.
149 M. Rau-wat (two trains daily) in 874-9i/s hrs. (fares 37 p. 60, 30 p. 70,
13 p. 46 c). There is also one local train daily from Saragossa to LogrtMo^
smd one from Logroio to Mitanda. Ctarriages are changed in Caatvo^^ the
junction for the direct line to Pampeluna and Als^sua (p. 175). — Trains
start in Saragossa at the Bttaci&n d*l Arrabdl (p. 163). Dupacho Central^ see
p. 103. — Bailway-restaurants at aaragoMta^ Catetoi, Catt^J<m^ and Miranda^
that at the last being the best.
The railway follows the right bank of the Ebro all the way to Mi-
randa, and as far as Tudela (p. 175) it also hkirts the Canal Imperial
(see above). The scenery is interesting and often picturesque. The Dnest
points are Calakorra (p. 176), LofrtMo (p. 177), the Cunehas del Bbro (p. 178),
and (above all) near the Burra MoneofQ (p. 174), which is visible from
Saragossa till beyond CSalahovra. Best views to the right.
Saragossa^ see p. 163. — The railway burrows under the main
street of AnabUl (p. 165), skirts the Ebro, and sweeps round to the
N.W. thiongh the so-called OrtUUi, It then turns to the S.W. and
crosses the river by a flve-arched bridge (PI. B, 1). Fine retrospect
of the city, with its two cathedrals, the chnrch of San Pablo , and
the Aljaferfa J to the N. rise the Pyrenees, to the W. the Moncayo.
The train, without touching at the Madrid station (p. 163), then tra-
verses the green plain of the Ebro, bounded by curious hills of
marl. To the rightt on the barren left bank of the Ebro, lies Jtuti-
hoi. — T'/a M. VtebO'Monzalbarba^ ou the right bank, the station
i14RouUl9, GALLtJR. From Baragoiaa
for the TlUagea of these nanies, both of which have the octagonal
church-towers so common iii Atagout.
10 M. CaseUu (p. 168), the junction of the line to Madrid (R. 10).
— The traiu runs through a fertile aud well-inigated district. 13 M.
La Joyom, We cross the Jaldn.
151/2 ^' Alagdn, a small town pleasantly situated on the Jalon ;
the tiled dome belongs to the Jesuit church of San Antonio de Pa-
dua, the octagonad tower is that of the parish-church. — The Canal
Jmperidl fp. 173) is here carried above the Jal6n by a four-arched
aqueduct (to the left of the railway-bridge); it formerly passed under
the river in a tunnel. — To the right, above the Ebre, rises the
castle of Castejar (p. 171), on the sierra of that name.
To the left of (21 1/2 M.) Pedrola lies part of the Uano de Pla-
aeificia (p. 167). At (24 M.) Lueeni the Pyrenees are conspicuous
to the right. Beyond the Ebro, on the irrigation-canal of Tauete^
lies Remolino, with its saline springs. The train crosses the Canal
Imperial, which henceforth remains to the right, and enters a barren
region. We have a singular view over the narrow green strip of Ae
Ebro valley to Tauste and the Pyrenees on one side and the desert
and Moncayo on the other.
29 M. Oaliur, the port for the grain- vessels of the Cinco ViUas
(to the N.), which descend the Ebro to Tortosa and Amposta (p. 239).
These 'five towns' are TdusU, 809^ 8ddaba^ Ejea, and Xuna. A dili-
gence plies from Gallur to Tauste.
The line now traverses the desolate Llanura. Here and there
we see a eorral or sheep-fold. The veget<o^ consists ^ toU thistles,
rosemary, and salt-plants. The geological formation, seen in the
railway-cuttings, consists of limestone below, then argillaceous marl,
with rubble on the top. Farther on olive-tiees reappear in the vicin-
ity of the Ebro. On the opposite bank the ground swells into low
mesas ('tables'). These are succeeded by the bleak plateau of the
Bdrdenas, over which rise a few hills. We cross the Hueeha and
reach (34 M.) Cortes , the first village In Navarre, with a castle of
Don Sancho Abarca.
A branch-railway (11 M., in s/4 hr.) runs to the 8.W. from Oortes, up
the valley of the Hnecha, to Bmqa, a prettily situaied old town with
5600 inhab. and the ancestral cattle of the Bonaa (Borgias; p.26(^. From
Borja a visit may be paid to the Vonoayo (7600 ft.), the M<m$ Catmu* of
the Romans. The route leads vi& Vera^ a village known for Its heady
red Tfine. to the pietaresquely aitnated Vtntda, an old Oiata»eiaa abbey
founded la 1146 and presenting many featuyea of interest. Among these
may be instanced the beautiful Gothic cloisters (14th cent.)., the chapter
house, the great marble staircase, the Transitional church, and the em-
battled walls and towers. From the old abbey we ride to the top of the
Moncayo via the hamlet of Pa$md and the £rmita de Ifuettra BeSiora dt
iffoncayOf a well-known pilgrimage-resort (night-quarters). The Sierra de
Uoncayo^ the mountain-barrier between the Castllian hill-country of Soria
and the mneh lower basin of the Ebro. ii a precipitous and featareless
wall of granite, nearly 40 M. long, of which two fiummits oniy (one to the
N. and one to the 8.) extricate themselves from the general mass. Martial
mentions it a^ the haunt of ^olus, and it is still dreaded as the gathering
to Miranda de Ebro. . TUDELA. 19. RawU, 175
gvomd of saddea tbunder-stormi. Its ^sbort leg* ts lowards the CaitillMi
plateau, while iU slope on the side next the Ebro valley is much longer.
The view is very extensive, bat not picturesque.
The railway to Miranda continuefl to run for some time through
a desert and then emerges on a region of vineyards and corn-fields.
*- 42'/j M. Bibafotada, The railway skirts a forest which is inter-
sected hy the Canal Imperial. In the Ebro, beyond this, 3 M. from
Tudeia, is the Boeal del Rey, the great prtM, or weir, for feeding
the canal. The next village is Fontellas, On the opposite side of the
Kbro are Fustinana and CahanUlcu.
481/2 M. Tad«U (830 ft. ; Fonda de la UtUon; Fonda de Morales),
finely situated close to the Ebro, with 8700 inhabitants. To the left
is the Fkua de Toros; to the right the Ebro is crossed by a bridge of
nineteen arches. The ^CoUgiata (formerly the cathedral), dating in
ita present form mainly from the 13th cent., is described by Mr. Street
as one of the very best churches he had visited in any part of Europe.
It has three fine doorways and is adjoined on the S. by beautiful
cloisters. The church of La Magdalena is also interesting.
From Tndela a branch -line (13i/t M., in IWi hr.) runs to Taraiona
XFonda Lopex), a venerable town witii 7900 inhab., on the QtM«es, which
descends from the Moncayo (p. 174). The CaMec<iYri, dating substanti-
ally from the 13th cent., but much modernized on the exterior, has a
lofty steeple and a carious but picturesque cimborio formed of bricks
and coloured tiles. The cloisters are a good example of 10th cent, brick
worl^ with delicate tracery cut in thin slabs of stone. The ofaurch of
La Magdatena has a t 11 and beautiful steeple, adorned with diaper-patterns
formed by projecting bricks. The ehurches of La CencepHdn and San
MiguH may also be visited. Kear La Magdalena is the large BUikipU
Falace, fornaerly the Alciaar*
Our line skirts the hills to the left, on which some fortifications
are visible. To the right we look across the valley of the Ebro to-
wards the Mesas (p. 174). To the N. rise the lofty summits of the
Pyrenees. We pass the villages of Argucdat and Valtierra. The
Bardenas (p. 174) still lie to the right. The Moncayo retreats into
the background. The Ebro winds between low green banks.
58Vs M. Castojon (RaU. HoUl^*Be9taurantJj a poor village in a
flat district, belonging to the Castilian province of Soria. Diligences
run hence to Soria (p. 155), to the (14 V2 M.) baths and hot springe
(117<> Fahr.) of Fitero, on the Alhama, and to CilV2 M.) Grdvalds.
FtooM Castbjon to Pampeluka and Alsasua, 87 M., railway (two
through-trains daily) in 6Vs and 9 brs. (fares 16 p. 10, 12 p. 10. 7 p. '^5 c).
A local train also plies daily from Cast ej on to Pampduna^ and two from
Pampeluna to Alsdtua. — The chief stations before Pampeluna are (1^ M.)
Uareitia, (25 M.) Olite. with two interesting churches and a ruined castle,
(2&U.) Tqfalla, and (46 H.) ITcain.
66 11. Pampeluna, Span. Pamplona (1380 ft.-, Perla; Europa)^ the
Roman PompatUt^ is one of the most ancient towns in K. Spain. In 476
it was occupied by the Visigoths under Enric; in 542 and again in 778,
after a short interval of Moorish dominion, it was in possession of the
Franks) and in 906 it became the capital of the kingdom of Navarre.
In 1612 it was captured by the Castilians ^ in 1806-13 it was in the hands
of the Freneh, frOm whom it was taken by the Dake of Wellington in
th« latter year; and in 1875-76 it was frequently mentioned in connection
with the second Curlist war. The town, which is strongly fortified ^and
176 Route 1^. GALAHORRA. From Saragassa
dominated by an old citadel, contains 29,800 inhab. and lies upon a hill
pn the left bank of the Arga. The chief object of intereat i$ the Qothie
*Gathbdbal, built by Charles HI. of Navarre in 1397 et seq. on the site
of a Romanesque chnrch of 1101. The facade is modem, and the two
towers (166 ft.) date from 1780. The fine interior is flanked on both slides
by rows of chapels ; the coro occupies the centre of the nare ; the form
of the apse is unusual. The church contains the tombs of Charles ITL
and his wife Leonora of Castile, with alabaster effigies of the deceased
(1496); good Renaissance choir-stalla by Higuel de Ancheta (1680); and an
ancient and highly revered image of the Virgin. A handsome door in
the right aisle, with a relief of the Death of the Virgin above it, leads
into the *Clouter»^ which are among the most beautiful in Spain. To the
E. of the cloisters is the Chapter House; to the S. are the Sola Preciota^
onee the meeting-place of the Cortes of Kavarre, and the Capilla di Santa
Ortu, the latter railed in by a reja formed of the tent-chains of the
Hoorish leader En-NaAlr, captared by the Navarrese at tbe battle of Las
Kavas de Tolosa (p. 809) in 1^9. — Among the other sights of Pampelnna
are the Gothic church of San SiOumino ; the originally Romanesque church
of San Nicolas; and the Plaza del Castillo or de la GonstUueidn, with its ar-
cades. To the S. of the town lies the Btai Ring; to the W. are the Paseo
de Valencia, with the Frenl&n for the Basque ball-game (p. xxiz), and the
Jardin de la Taconera (fine views). Pampeluna is the native place of
Sarasate, the violinist, and possesses a Sareuate Mustum, containing the
jewels and other gifts received by the musician from royal personages.
60 M. Zuasti; 76 M. HuarU; 81 M. Echarri, — 87 M. AUdsua, see p. ±L
As we continue oar journey from Castejon to Miranda, we see
to the N. the wide valley of the Aragdn^ sloping upwards to the
highland plateau of Navarre.
62 M. Alfaro, an ancient town with 6800 inhab. and formerly
one of the keys of Navarre, is the first station in the Castilian pro-
vince of Logrono. We cross the Alhama, To the right, prettily
situated on the farther bank of the Ebro, at the mouth of the Arag6n,
lies MilagrOf with its ruined castle. — 67V2 M. Bincon de Soto, in
a treeless district. To the left are the Sierra del Madero (3870 ft.), the
W. prolongation of the Sierra de Moncayo, and Aldea Nueva, The
line traverses a corn-growing tract.
75 Y2 ^* Calahorra (Fonda Juliana; Fonda Espinoea)^ the birth-
place of Quintilian, is an old and famous town with 8500 inhab.,
occupying a somewhat confined situation on the slope rising from the
Cidaeos, It is the CkUaguirris Nassica of the Iberians, which resisted
Pbmpey successfully in B. G. 76 and was taken four years later by
Afranius, after a heroic resistance, in which the tortures of hunger
endured by the besieged followers of Sertorius made fames Calagwr^
ritana a proverbial expression. A few ruins still mark the site of a
Roman Circus and A^ucdtxct (p. 177). The Gathbdbal, on the bank
-of the Cidacos, on the site where Emeterius and Celedonku suffered
martyrdom, was raised to episcopal rank in 1045 and was restored
by Maestre Juan in 1485. The transepts, the chief doorway, and the
Gapilla de Santa Epifania were altered at a later date. The Gasa
Santa contains the bodies of the two saints named above, who were
beheaded about 300 A. D. Their heads were thrown into the Ebro,
floated down to the sea, and made their way round the coast of the
to Miranda d(i Ebro, LOGRONO. rJ. lioulf. 177
peninsula to Santonder, where they are now preserved (p. 44). On
Ang. 3l8t the Casa Santa it visitad by crowds of pUgrims.
The shield of Calahorra exhibits two naked arms, with swords which
emit sparks: above is a woman with a sword In one hand and a child in
the other. The motto ts: Pfvdkei contra Cariago y Roma, This escutcheon
refers to a vision seen by Hannibal when he took the city.
On the other side of the Ebro lie the so-called 'Cuaito Villas':
San Adrian, AndodUa, Lertn^ and Azagra, Behind these is the
Solanaj a desert extending on the W. to Haro (p. 178) and bounded
on tbe N. by a hilly district, through which the Arga^ Ega, and Odron
have cloven deep valleys. Tafaila, Larraga, Estella, and other vil-
lages in this region were well-known names in the Garllst wars.
Beyond the hiU-district rise the limestone peaks of the Sierra de
Afuiia(4900ft).
About 18 M. to the 8. W. of Calahorra lie the well-known hot sulphur
•prings (120* Fahr.) of Amedille, frequented from June to the middle of
September. The road to them leads along the Cidaeoo vi& (10 M.) Amedo^
a town with 9800 inhabitants.
The train eontinnes to traverse a dreary distriot, close to the
Kbro. 84 M. Lodota^ on the left bank of the Ebro, with old cave
dwellings of the Moorish period. The Monoayo now disappears.
Farther on is a fertile grain-growing region, watered by means of
a weir across the Ebro. The valley contracts. In the Solana, on the
farther bank, are seen the ruins of the Roman aqueduct of Cala-
horra. — 88 M. Aleanadre. The layers of soil on the heights
of both banks are altomatoly red and whito. The Ebro itself is
stained red. To the N. rise picturesque limestone peaks. — 927*2 M.
Mendaviay on the left bank of the Ebro. Farther on, to the right,
close to the railway, lies AgorteiUo, the Roman Egon, with an old
castle with four towers. We cross the Le%a, 100 M. BeeajOy in an
unenltivated and waterless plain. To the N.W. rises the huge
Sierra de Canldbrio, forming the mountain-barrier between the Ebro
valley and the Concha de Alava (p. 15). At its base lies Viana
(p. 178). To the left opens a wide valley, whence the Iregua issues ;
this is backed by the snow-capped 5i«rra CeboUera (7138 ft.) and
the Pico de Urhion (7396 ft.), on the S. flank of which the Douro
takes its rise. The train crosses the Iregua by an iron bridge 386 ft.
long.
106 M. Logrofto (1040 ft. ; Fonda del Vniverto ; Hot. del Comercio ;
Hot. ^ Best. Suizo'), the Julidbriga of the Romans and the birthplace
of the painter Juan Fernandez Navarrete, sumamed El Mudo (1526-
79), is a city of 13,800 inhab., commandingly situated on the Ebro.
It is the capital of a province of Its own name and the depot of the
rich wine-district of Bioja, which extends to the S. It contains few
objects of interest. — We enter the town by the Delieias Promenade.
The chief squares are the Plaza del Coso and the Plaza Bedonda.
The main street has arcades on both sides. The interesting twelve-
arched bridge across the Ebro, built in 1138 by San Juan de Ortega.
Basdbkbb^s Spain. 12
1 78 Itoute 12. HARO.
the Spanish St. John Nepomuc, has recently heen removed. The
paiish-ohurch Santa Maria deFalado, snmamed the imperial, is said
to have been founded by Oonstantine the Great. At its W. end are
two towers j the choir contains wood-carvings and frescoes by Jose
Vexes (d. 1782).
A DiLiosNCE plies from Logrono to {il^k M.) Ptanpeluna^ pasting (5 V .)
Viana and (257s H.) Ettella. The latter was the headquarters of the Car-
lists, and it was here, in 1874, that Don Carlos caused the German Capt.
Schmidt, attached as a war corre<<pondent to the Repablican troops, to be
shot. — A diligence also runs from Logrono to (59 M.) Soria (p. 15o).
The Solana and ranges of steep hills are conspicuous to the right.
The valley contracts, and the train runs at a considerable height
above the river. — 115 M. Frunmayofy where the Ebro is spanned
by a suspension-bridge.
Abont S^^sM. to the S.W., near J)rd>«ra, the old residence of the rulers
of Kavarre, lies Navarrete^ where the Black Prince and Peter the Cruel
defeated the French under Henry of Trastamara and Da Quesclin (1367).
The railway follows the bends of the Ebro. The scenery is mon-
otonous. To the N. are El Ciego and La Quardia, the latter fam-
ous for its silk-culture. — 12172 M. Cenicero^ in a wine-growing dis-
trict. We cross the NajeriUa. 128 M. San Asensio. — The train
passes through a tunnel below a Hieronymite convent. To the right,
on a hill beyond the Ebro, lies San Vicente, with its church. —
131 V2 M. Briones, rising in terraces from the Ebro. The train crosses
the Tiron,
I36V2 M. Hare (Hot. de Europa), a town with 7100 inhab., is
one of the chief places in the Rioja, which lies to the S., backed by
the imposing Sierra de la Demanda^ with the Cerro de San Lorenzo
(7660 ft.), the Sierra de Neila^ and the Pico de Vrbion (p. 177). —
The railway now approaches the mountains, which the Ebro intersect?
between the Bilihio to the N. and the Buradon to the S. The train
penetrates the wild ravine of the Concha de Haro (tunnel) and then
(2^/2 M. farther on) the Concha Chiquita, These two defiles, known
as the Conchas del Ebro^ are much more celebrated than their nature
warrants, and do not compare with the adjacent gorge of Pancorbo
(p. 17). On leaving the defile, we enter the fine amphitheatre in
which Miranda lies. To the left is the village of Ircio. — The train
crosses the Ebro by an iron bridge 300 ft. long.
149 M. Miranda de Ebro, see p. 17.
13 . From Saragossa to Tardienta and Lerida (Barcelona) .
114 M. Railway (one train daily) in 6 hrs. : fares 21 p. 5, 15 p. 80, 11 p.
60 c. (to Barcelona, 227 H., in 11 hrs. ■, fares 42 p. 10, 31 p. 60 c, 23 p.). A
local train also runs daily from Saragossa to Tardienta. — Trains start in
Saragossa at the E»taei6n del Ai-rabal (p. 163), in Barcelona at the Estacidn
del Norte (p. 194). Despacho Central at Saragossa, see p. 163 ^ at Barcelona,
see p. 194. — Bailway - restaurants at Baragoeea, lArida, Manreta, and
Barcelona.
Saragossa^ see p. 163. — The train turns from Arrabal towards
HUESCA. 13. Route. 179
the N.E. and ascends the right bank of the OdUegOy a stream de-
scending from the Pyrenees. As far as Almndtfvar it follows the old
highroad to Huesca and Jaea in Upper Aragon and to Catalonia.
The district traversed is fairly ouUiyated. — 6 M. San Juan de Mo^
unrifar; 7Vs M. ViUanueva del QdUego.
At (16 M.) Zuera road and railway cross the Gil lego and enter
the province of HueBca. Between the Gallego and the Isuela extend
the Llanos de Violada^ a dreary and thinly settled plain. — 27 M.
Almudivair^ a town with 2800 inhab. and a ruined castle.
The railway now tarns to the S.E., at right angles to its former
course. — 32 M. Tardiento» an insignificant town with 1350 inhab.,
is the junction of the line to Huesca and Jaca,
Fkom Tabdxknta to Jaca, 88 M., railway (one through- train daily) in
5»/i hrs. (farea 13 p. 85, 10 p. 40, 7 p. 96 c). There is also another train for
local st&fcionfl.
13>/« M . HuaMa (1600 ft. *, Union), the Roman Osea, a city with 13,000
inkab., is the see of a bishop and the capital of a province. The quaint
old city, which is surrounded by the ramains of an older and a newer
(outer) line of eircumvallation, stands on a low elevation rising out of
the wide plain of La Hoya^ near the last 8.W. spurs of the Sierra de Quara.
Sertorius, who was murdered here by Perpenna in B.C. 72, made Huesca
the seat of a eollege for the noble youths of Iberia and Lusitania, and the
city also played an important r61e under the Boman dominion. The Moors
hnilt . a mosque here which pai^sed for the fineat in the country. On its
reconquest by the Ghristii-ns ia 1096, Huesca became the capital of Aragon,
but it lost this position to Saragossa in 1118, though the Cortes still often
met here during the 12-13th canturies. — The chief lion of Huesca is the
Gothic Cathbdsal, which lies on the highest ground in the city, on tbe
site of the famous Moorish mosque. It was begun by the Basque Juan de
Olotzoffa at the beginning of the 16th cent., and finished about 1615. The
fine main doorway is adorned with 14 colossal figures of apostles and saints.
The interior, forming a square of 136 ft., is flanked with rows of chapels
and ends in five octagonal apses. The transepts do not project beyond the
line of the side-walls ; the coro occupies the two easternmost bays of the
nave. The fine choir-stalls are in the Renaissance style. The alabaster
*Betablo of the high-altar (1520-33), the brilliant masterpiece of Damian
Formeni (p. 168), is adorned with beautifully carved reliefs of the Bearing
of the Gross, Crucifixion, and Descent from the Cross, and with medallions
of the sculptor and his wife. — Opposite the cathedral stands the large
(kua Contistorial. — In the^S. part of the town is San Pedbo, one of the
oldest Romanesque churches in the country, having been begun in 1100
and consecrated in 1241. The cimborio is of a later period. The church
is roofed with barrel-vaulting and terminates in three semicircular apses.
The main entrance is on the tf. side. At the V.E. comer of the church
rises a hexagonal bell-tower 5 on the S. it is adjoined by sadly dilapidated
cloisters of the 12th century. — The Institdto Psovxngial, in the N. part
of the town, occupies the building of the university that flourished here
under the kings of Aragon. It contains a vaulted room of the 12th cent.,
which is said to have been the scene of the massacre known as the 'Bell
of Huesca\ King Ramiro II., sumamed 'El Moi^e' (p. 186), was advised
by the Abbot of San Ponce de TomeriLs to show his turbulent nobles 'a
bell which could be heard throughout the whole country\ Ramon ac-
cordingly beheaded 16 of the leaders and arranged their heads in the form
of a bell, with one hung up as the clapper. The library of the Institute
possesses some valuable MSS. — The church of Saku, about IVs M. from
Huesca, has a fine recessed W. doorway with exquisite mouldings.
82 M Jaea, a town of 8800 inhab., is the capital of the mountain
district of Sobrarbe (p. 161). At present it is the terminus of the railway
12*
180 Route 13. MONZON.
wMcb is to be prolonged io Canfreme. The cathedral was originally founded
in 814 and retains some interesting fiomanesqne details.
The railway to L^rida continues to run towaids the S.E. To
the left we enjoy fine views of the Pyrenees. — 42V2 M. Qranen^ a
small place on the left bank of the Isuela^ along which the train
descends. 48^2 M. Polinino.
56 M. Sariilenat an old town with 3200 inhab., lies in a fertile
district, on a ridge between the Isuela and the Alcanadre,
From Sarinena a road leads to the S.E. to (8Vs M.) ViUanneoa de
Sigena, on the Alcanadre, near which is the convent of Bigena, founded
in 1183 by Alfonso II. of Aragon and his wife Sancha of Castile. The
convent has interesting Bomanesque features and contains the tomb of
Dona Sancha.
The railway crosses the Alcanadre by a viaduct 80 ft. high, and
passes through a tunnel. 62 M. LastanosOy in a bleak and lonely
hill-district. — We cross the Tormiiio and reach (76V2 M.) Sdgua^
a poor village on the Cinca.
A branch- railway (IS^/z M., in 1 hr.) connects Selgua wifli Barbastro,
an ancient and decayed see with 7700 inhab., which lies on the r«*o, to
the N. The Cathedral dates from the 16th century.
Our line crosses the Cinta by an iron bridge, with three arches,
640 ft. long. — 79 M. Hons6iL, a town of 3700 inhab., the name of
which is well known in history as a meeting-place of the Cortes of Ara-
gon and Catalonia. The building in which they sat is now the Jutgo
de Pelota, The principal church, 8an Juan^ is in the Gothic style. On
a hill rising steeply over the town is a conspicuous old castle, which
Ramon Berenguer IV. of Barcelona assigned to the Knights Templar
in 1143. The ruins of another fortress, on a lower hill close by, are
referred to the Roman period. According to Edmondo de Amicls,
the castle and town of Monz6n Illustrate, as no other place in Spain,
^the timorous submission of an oppressed people, and the perpetual
menace of a ferocious lord'.
The train now runs to the S.E. through olive-groves and cross-
es the Sosa. 86^/2 M. BhUfar is the station for the small town of
Tamarite de Litera, which lies about 7*/? M. to the N.E. — Far-
ther on we traverse a bleak district and cross the Calmdr^ which
here forms the boundary between Aragon and the Catalonian pro-
vince of Lirida.
99 M. AlmaceUas; 103 M. Baymat, in the Noguera^ a richly cul-
tivated district, watered by the Segte and numerous canals.
114 m. Lirida^ and thence to Barcelona^ see R. 17. — From
Le'rida to Beu$ and Tarta/gona^ see B. 22.
14. From Saragossa to Reus (Barcelona),
148 M. Railway (one throueh-train daily) in 71/4 hrs. ; fares 37 p. 30,
^'> p. 66, 15 p. 15 c. (to Baredona, 213 M., in IOV2 hrs. ; fares 40 p. 75, 80 p. 66,
0. 35 c). A daily local train runs from Saragossa to Caap4^ and another
1 Reus to Barcelona. The Madrid-Saragossa-Barcelona express, mentioned
. 151, runs thrice weekly from Saragossa to Bureelona in about 7»/« hrs.
CASPS. 14, Route. 181
— Ib 8«i»goiiA Ihe train* tUrt from the E$taei^ dtl StpuUro (p. 163), in
BMeelon* from the JBataei^ dt Fr<meia (p. 194). Detpaeho Centrdl at Sara-
gos«a. Me p. 168 i at Barcelona, tee p. 194. — Railway- restaurants at Sa-
ragoua. Mora la Nmoa^ and Rmu.
Saragosaa, see p. 163. — Tlie train sweeps round the S. side
of the city and then runs to the S.E. between the Ebro (left)
&nd the Canal Imperiiil (p. 173). To the left we see the village of
Piutritf on the left bank of the river ; to the right, in the distance,
rise the Altos dt ValmadTidy a range of barren hills. — lO'/s ^*
El Bwrgo. Adjacent, on the Ebro, is Zaragota la Vieja^ a mnch-
▼isited ermita.
18 M. Fuentes dc Ebro, the terminus of the Canal Imperial, is a
gmUl town of ^100 inhab., situated on the OitUl^ not far from the
Ebro. It contains the handsome palace of the Counts of Fuentes. —
Farther on, to the left, we see the rillages of Oura and Aguilar
de Ebro^ both on the left bank of the river. — 22 M. Pina de Ebro ;
the small town, with 2600 Inhab., is on the opposite bank. — We
now cross and recross the Aeiquia del Quinio, an irrigatiou-oanal,
and run through olive-plantations to —
27i/s M. dninto, an old town with 2400 inhab. and well-known
saline baths. — The line now hugs the Ebro, on the left bank of
which appears the little town of OtUa. Beyond the torrent of Lop{n
we reach (36 M.) La Zaida, — The train turns to the S., ascends
along the brook El Aguai, and temporarily enters the province of
Teruel. From (41 M.) A%aila, on the right bank of the Aguas, a
road runs to Eteairon, with its alabaster quarries, situated on the
Ebro 7Vs M. to the E. The line now crosses a tableland named the
Meteta de Azaila.
46 M. Puebla de H^ar, the station for the small town of that
name (2100 inhab.), which lies 3 M. to the S.
From Pueblo de H^ar a road leads through the Duierto de Calanda
to the old town of Alcafiix, which Ilea on the Owidalope^ about 19 H. to
the 8.E. Alcaniz, the AniiorgU of the Iberians and the Alcanit of the
Moors, was the scene of a famous battle in B.C. 212, in which the Car-
thaginiane under Hasdrubal Barca defeated the Roman army and slew ite
leaders Gnieus and Pabliua Cornelius Scipio. — For the continuation of
the road via (62 M.) Morelta to Vtnardz^ see p. 246.
The line again turns towards the E., passes (61 M.) Samper de
Calanda, and crosses the Quadalope, At (63 M.) Chiprofna it once
roore reaches the Ebro, the course of which fromEscatron (see above)
to Caspe is very circuitous.
73 M. Caspe, a poor town with 7100 inhab., lies on the right
bank of the Ebro, within the province of Saragossa. It possesses a
good Gothic Colegiata. — A little below Caspe the Ebro sweeps
round to the N. and skirts the Sierra de Mequirunza^ a range belong-
ing to the Catalonlan coast-mountains. At (80^2 ^0 Eabara^ and
again at (861/2 M.) Nonaspe, the train intersects the S. spurs of this
range. At (94 M.) Fayon it regains the Ebro and enters the Catal-
onlan province of Tarragona,
182 Route Id, MARSA-FALSET.
The line follows the right bank of the Ebro, which here forces
its way through the coast-ranges of Catalonia. The heights on the
left bank belong t<o the Sierra de la Llena. 102 M. Ribarroja-,
iO^i/iU. FUx Hi U. A$c6,
At (119 M.) Mora la Nueva (Rail. Restaurant) we cross the Ebro,
which flows hence due S. to Tortosa (p. 239\ and proceed to the E.
through a fertile and well- tilled region. — 124 M. QuiametS', 126 M.
Capaanes,
131 M. ICarsa-Falset, the station for the village of Marta
and the small town of FaUet (3900 iiihabA The latter, lying in a
pretty valley on the slope of Monte Mala (8015 ft.), a S. spur of the
MonUani (3510 ft.) , is the chief place in the rich wine-growing
district of El Ptiorato , and contains a ruined castle and the re-
mains of a palace of the Dukes of Medinaceli. — Farther on, the
train crosses several mountain - torrents. 134 M. Pradeli-^ 137 M.
DosaiguoB-Argentera; 140 M. Riudecahas-Botarell', 143 M. Borjaa
del Campo,
148 M. ReuSf and thence to Barcelona^ see R. 19a. — From Reus
to Lirida and Tarragona ^ see R. 22.
m. CATALONIA.
15. From Perpignan to Barcelona 186
From Figaerat to Boaaa. From Figneraa to Caatellfullit
and Olot 188- — From Empalme to Barcelona by the In-
land Railway, 190. ^ From OranoU^rs to RipoU and San
Joan de laa Abadeaaa, 191. — From MoUet to Oaldaa de
Xontbay, 191, 193. — From Empalme to Barcelona by
tbe Goaat BaUway, 192.
16. Barcelona 194
17. From Bsreelont to L^rlda (Saragossa, Madrid') . . .211
Fh>m Manreaa to Cardona, 213. — Bxcuraion among the
E. Pyreoeea (Urgel, Andorra), 217.
18. Tbe Montaerrat 218
a. Route via Moniatrol, 219. — b. Route via Collbat6, 221.
— c. The Monastery and i's Neighbourhood, 223.
19. From Barcelona vifi San Vicente de Calders to Reus
(Saragossa, Madrid) 226
a. Coaat Railway ▼!& Villanueva y Geltrti, 236. — Branch
Railway from Roda da Bari to Picamoizona, 'i27. — b. In-
land Railway via Martorell, 22S. — Branch Railway from
Harforell to Igualada, 229.
20. From Barcelona vifl San Vicente de Calders to Tarra-
gona (Tortosa, Valencia) 230
21. Tarragona 231
22. From Tarragona to Ltfrida via Rens 237
Bxenrsion to Poblet, 388.
23. From Tarragona to Tortosa (Valencia) 238
Tlie Ptmciipado ck Catalunaj embracing the fonr provinces of
Barcdonat OerorMf Urida, and Tarragona^ with a total area of
12,430 sq. M. and a population of 1,843,500, forms the N.E. corner
of the Iberian Peninsula. As a whole it may be described as a wild
mountainous district, abutting on the Pyrenees. AU the principal
rivers have their sources In this lofty frontier-range. The JUohttgat
MenoTy FImM, Ttt, and Bttds, which reach the Mediterranean to
the N. of Barcelona, are mere coast-rivers. The lAohregat (the
Roman Rvbrieaiua)^ which waters the fertile Gampiua of Barcelona
and enters the sea just to the S. of that city, is somewhat more im-
portant. The chief river of Catalonia is, however, the 8egre (Sieoris)^
which joins the Ebro at Mequinenza and adds much the larger vol-
ume of water (especially in summer) to the united stream. Below
the junction the Ebro (Hiberus) breaks through the mountains in
the S. part of the province of Tarragona and forms a spacious delta
at its mouth to the E. of Tortosa. The only navigable part of it is
that below Tortosa. *
J 84 CATALONIA.
There are no great mountain-ranges in Catalonia, and its moun-
tain-scenery is seldom picturesque. Among its isolated summits, ris-
ing here and there like islands, are the Montseny (^5690 ft) , the
celebrated lfon««frrat (4060 ft.), the Montagut (3125 it.), and the
Montsant (3616 ft.), the last two lying farther to the S. The snow-
clad Pyrenees, though beyond the boundaries of the province, form
an important factor in the scenic views of its N. portion ; the most
conspicuous peaks are the Canigou(QiS6 ft.), the Maranges (9660 ft.),
and the Carlitte (9686 ft). Towards the Mediterranean, in the r^.
part of the province, spreads the plain of El Ampurdun, and the
plains of Gerona and Vich may also be mentioned. The W. part of
Catalonia resembles in its geological formation the barren districts
of clay and marl in the adjoining province of Aragon ; but the Catal-
onians, true to their national proverb (^Los CaXalanet de Uu piedrat
sacan panes, i.e. 'produce bread from stones'), manage, by dint
of artiflciaf watering, to win rich crops from this unpromising soil,
especially in the Llano del Vrgelj the Noguera, and the Fontanat.
The valleys of the Pyrenees, which feed large herds of sheep,
goats, and hogs, also produce large quantities of serviceable timber.
On the lower slopes grow evergreen and felt-leaved oaks (Quercus
Ilex and Q. Tozza), farther up are firs and pines (Pinus pyrenaica,
P. silvestris, P. abies), and in the highest zone of vegetation are
box-wood and Alpine shrubs. Nearer the coast grow olive-trees,
vines, fig-trees, nut-trees, agaves, cacti, orange-trees, date-palms,
aud carob-trees. The quick-flowing streams supply the motive power
for numerous mills and factories.
The Catalan presses all nature into his service. Like the Basque,
he is a bom man of business, forming a striking contrast to the slow-
moving Castilian and the lazy Andalusian, who are mere tillers of
the soil and are content with the satisfaction of the most elementary
desires. Thus the Catalan is a strong protectionist, while the corn
and wine districts are inclined to free trade. He supplies a great
part of Spain with paper, soap, iron ware, and the products of his
textile factories. Thousands of busy female hands are occupied in
making lace for mantillas. The Catalan is keenly alive to the main
chance, and the *gran caballero Don Dinero' bulks as largely in his
eyes as the *Almighty Dollar' is said to do in those of our Trans-
atlantic cousins. Like the Swiss, he wanders through the lands of
both hemispheres, in the hope of returning as a rich man to his home.
All that lies beyond the frontier of his native province is foreign
land to the Catalan, and not least 'fispana Uniforme', with its central-
isation, and the 'Corte' of Madrid, with its superficial polish. He
considers Barcelona not only the wealthiest city of Spain (which, in
fact, it is) but also the largest and the handsomest He avoids speak-
ing Spanish, or, as he calls it, 'Castilian', and revels in the ^melody*
of his Catalan tongue, which is spoken not only throughout Catalonia
■^ut in tBe greater part of Valencia, the Balearic Isles, and to the N.
CATALONIA. 185
M far as Andorra and Ronssillon. This language closely resembles
the Provencal or Limonsin, and is one of the roughest of Romanesque
dialecta. like Catalan, however, writes poetry and even scientific
works in this unlovely speech, and boasts of the CataianismOj or
Catalan literature t.
The modem Catalonians are the issue of a most composite
ancestry. In their veins the old Iberian blood mingles with that of
Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Goths, Arabs, and Gauls. Their
natural affiliations long attracted them towards their neighbours in
the S. provinces of France ; and it was only the War of Independence
against Napoleon that made them politically Spaniards. They still,
however, cherish a traditional antagonism to the Castilians, and are
always ready for revolt in the form of subUvaeione, motine, somatene,
or prommeicanmto. Their wish long was, and perhaps still is, that
Catalonia should be made independent, or, at least, that they should
enjoy their old futfros, the abolition of the Quinta (p. 4), and other
privileges of E^pana Foral (privileged Spain). As a province of £«-
pana AatmUada (incorporated Spain), the only independent institu-
tions Catalonia now retains are the provincial police (cscuadraj and
the militia (iomaUn),
The History op Catalonia affords plausible grounds for such
demands. Even under the Romans Hitpania TarraconcMia was the
kernel of the Iberian possessions. After a temporary occupation by the
Visigoths, to whom, perhaps, the district owes its name(Gotaulania?),
It fell into the hands of the Moors. These in turn were compelled
to abandon it, and from the time of St. Louis onwards Catalonia
formed part of the Frankish kingdom under the name of the Spanish
Mark. Wilfrid the Shaggy ( Velludo or Velloso), governor in the
reign of Charles the Bald, threw off the yoke of the West Frankish
aonarch (874) and established the independent Condado de Barce-
lona. The Catalans had at this time established the reputation, which
they &tiU hold, of being among the boldest and most skilful mar-
iners of Europe. From Count Ramon Berenguer I. (1035-76) the
land received an admirable code of laws, the celebrated C6digo de
lo$ U§atjes de CaUUuna. in 1149, on the marriage of Ramon Beren-
guer IV. with Petronila , daughter and heiress of King Ramiro II.
(^el Monje'), Catalonia was united with Aragon; and on the marriage
of Ferdinand and Isabella (1469) both these countries were incor-
porated with Castile. After the conquest of Granada (149'2) Catal-
onia ranked simply as one of the provinces of a United Spain. Dur-
ing the War of the Spanish Succession Catalonia espoused the
cause of the Austrians. The sufferings of Barcelona at this epoch
•]■ The pronanclation of this dialect differs in many reapeets from
Spanish. Thna eh at the end of a word sounds like ifc, g and J are pro-
Bonneed as in French, ig i>fter a vowel is pronounced like the Scottish gut-
tural ch (paig = puch), ny like the Spanish », and x like sh. The Castil-
i&n ca$a del, ctua de la, and casa de are represented by eoJ, ca la, and can.
186 Route 15. PEBPIGNAN. From Perpignan
aie borne witness to by its coins bearing the legend ^Barclno dvitas
obsessa' (1714). The Bourbon king Philip V. wrote of the citizens :
'ils sont iMuits ^ cinq onces de viande de cheval I'autre jour, et ils
ne parlent pas de se rendre'. Still greater heroism was shown in
1809 by Gerona, a worthy rival of Saragossa.
Of all the provinces of Spain, Catalonia makes the most 'European*
impression. In a fi;eneral way it resembles Italy, though its scenery
is much less attractive. The charms of the valleys of the Pyrenees are
difficult of access, and are more conveniently reached from the
French side of the range. The Montseny has scarcely ever been
ascended by tourists, though the view it commands is even more
extensive than that £rom the Montserrat
15. From Perpignan to Barcelona.
131-134 H . Railway (one express and one ordinary train daily) in 5V4-10
hrs. (fares 27 fr. 20, 20 fr. 20, 12 fr. 80 c). As far as Fort-Bou, the Spanish
frontier-station (^4-2 hrs.}, the train is in the hands of the CJiemin de Fer
du Midi (in the reverse direction from Cerbkve, the French frontier-station) ;
thence to Barcelona (41/4-6V2 hrs.) it is run by the GompafUa de los Ferro-
carrilet de Tarragona a Barcelona y Francia (fares 22 p. 20, 16 p. 80, 10 p.
75 c). Beyond Empalme the express follows the inland line, while six
local trains run from this point to Barcelona, three on each line (comp.
pp. 190, 192). — Carriages are changed and Inggage is examined at Port-Bon
(or Cerb^re), where a detention of about 1 hr. takes place (comp. pp. xii, xiii).
There are money-changers' offices and restaurants at both Port-Bou and
Gerbere; and there are also railway-restaurants at Oerona^ Empalme^ and
Barcelona. — For the Spanish railways, time-tables, etc., see pp. xv-xvii.
Ferpignan is reached by express from Lyons in 9-10 hrs., from Mar-
eeiUes in 7 hrs.
Perpignan (80 ft.; Orand H6tel de Perpignan; H6U de France;
Hot, du Nord et du Petit-Paris, and others}, the closely built old
capital of the Counts of Roussillon and now of the department of
the Pyr^ii^es Orientales, is a fortress of the first class and lies on
the right bank of the Tet^ V2 ^' ^^^^ *^« railway-station. Pop.
83,900. The older part of the town still retains in many respects
a decidedly Spanish character. Spanish influence may also be
traced in the bold span of the nave and in other parts of the
Caihedraly which was founded in 1324 and completed in the 16th
century. Among the other old buildings the most interesting are
the CastiUet of 1319 (now a prison) and the Loge or Lonja, dating
from the end of the 14th cent, and now occupied by the Mairie and
a cafe. The University contains a small gallery of paintings, sculp-
tures, and drawings.
6V2 M. ComeiUa. — 8 M. Elne, the ancient iMtfterw, with a
cathedral of the 12- 15th cent, and fine Romanesque cloisters. —
The train crosses the Tech. 10 M. Palau-del- Vidre; 13 V2 M. Argelhs-
sur-Mer. The line approaches the sea and tunnels through the
Monts AVblres, the E. foot-hills of the Pyrenees. — 17 M. CoUioure,
the ancient Cauco lIMeris^ picturesquely situated on the coast,
to Barcelona. PORT-BOU. 15, Route, 187
with an old castle. Tunnel. — 18 M. Port-Vendre$ (R6t, Durand),
the Fortus VenerU of the Romans, with an excellent haiboor and
good sea-hathing. Three more tunnels are threaded, and fine views
of the sea are enjoyed. — 21 M. BanyuU-aur^Mer^ celebrated for
its wine. — Beyond two more tunnels the train reaches {2b^l*i M.)
Cerb^re {^BaU. Rettaurant, dtfj. 3, D. 31/2 fr-t &l80 rooms), the last
French station and seat of the French cnstom-house. Luggage arriv-
ing from Spain is examined here.
The railway now passes in a tunnel through the Col dea Balistrea
(^Catalan, dels Belliuttret)^ which here forms the boundary between
France and Spain.
27 M. Port-Bon (Bail, BettaurantJ, the first Spanish station,
with a small harbour and the Spanish custom-house (Aduana),
Travellers should defer their visit to the buffet till after their sum-
mons for the inspection of the baggage.
Soon after leaving Port-Bou we pass through a tunnel, beyond
which we obtaiu a grand view of the sea and Cape Creus, The train
crosses the Barrancas (^raviues) de la Balca and del Marqu/s. At
(29 M.) CuUra we cross the ^riera' of that name, and a little later
that of Oarhet, Two tunnels. Among the signs that we have fairly
entered Catalonia are the water-wheels (ndricu)^ the hedges of aloe,
and the picturesque costume of the people, including the red caps
(haraUnoSj gorrosjj sandals (espardenas^ alpargatas), black velvet
knee-breeches, red sashes (faja), and shawls (tapa-hoca).
31 M. iMinsdy the church-tower of which resembles a fortress.
The railway quits the shore and threads two tunnels. — 36 M.
VUajuiga^ with the castle of Caramanso. Here also are two char-
acteristic Catalonian bell-towers, consisting simply of plain walls,
with openings in which the bells hang. To the right we have superb
views ot the snow-clad Pyrenees (Canigou^ Castabonncj PuigmcU,
etc.), with the deep gap of the Col de Portus (Perthus)^ over which
Hannibal marched in the spring of B.C. 218. To the left are Cape
Creus and Cape Norf^o. The wide and fertile plain which the rail-
way now traverses is the wine-producing Ampurddn^ which derives
its name from the ancient Emporiae (Ampurias, see p. 188). It is
watered by the Llobregat MenoTj the Muga, the Manol^ and the
Fluxi&, all of which the train crosses. — 39V2 M. Perelada.
43 M. Signeras (Fonda del Comercio), the chief place of the
Amjmrdan, is an uninteresting town with 9300 inhab^ and much
exposed to fever in summer. The pentagonal Castillo de San Fer-
nando (480 ft.), built by Cermiuo under Ferdinand VI., occupies
the site of an old Capuchin convent. Ou the last Mon. in May or the
first Mon. in June Figueras is the starting-point of El Ptofaso de la
Tramontana, a processional pilgrimage which has for its goal the
Ermita de NueHra Senora de Bequesens^ situated among the moun-
tains 15 M. to the N. It commemorates a similar pilgrimage iu
188 Route 15. GERONA. From Perpignan
1612, which resulted iii the chasing away of a severe fever epidemic
by the Tramontana (N. wind). The celebrations last three days.
A diligence plies from Figueras to Roaas, the aacieot Rhode ^ a small
seaport 10 H. to the £., which gives its name to the galf formed here.
About halfway to it is the Cattdlon de Ampurias, the name of which
recalls Emporiae^ an ancient Greek colony on the Gulf of Rosas.
Another diligence runs to the S.W. up the valley of the Fluvi^ to
Ccutellfullit de la Roca and Olot^ which form the geologically interesting
centre of a volcanic system even yet active. 'The eocene tertiary form-
ation in the floor of the valley is penetrated by volcanic eruptions of
a basaltic character. Above these rise 14 eruptive peaks, some of which,
such as the Monte de Santa Margarita and the Bosch de Tosea^ of perfectly
conical form and with well-preserved craters, have poured large masses
of lava over the tertiary deposits. Several of these extinct volcanoes have
fissures and holes, through which air is expelled with great violence and
noise. Such blow-holes are named bvfadors by the natives. Castellfullit
itself lies on the surface of a stream of basaltic lava, which consista of
five strata of columnar lava piled one above another like the stories of a
house' (Willkomtn).
47 M. VilamaUa; 48V2 M. Tonyd; 60 M. San Miguel de Fluvid,
with an old Romanesque tower. We cross the Fluvid, The geolog-
ical formations are mainly sandstone and breccia. — 64^/2 M. Ca-
marella. The train descends into the fruitful valley of the Ter.
57 M. San Jo-di. From (59 M.) Flaasa diligences run to La Bi^al
and the naval harbour of Pdlamos (Brit, vice-consul). — 61 M. Bor-
dils-Juydf 6372 M. Cdrd, To the right is Sarrid, with a large stone
bridge, above which rise the Costa Roja and (farther on) the conical
Roca Corba (3026 ft). The train skirts the N. side of Gerona and
crosses the Ona, which here joins the Ter and is flanked with bal-
conied houses. The station lies in the S.W. part of the town.
69^2 M' Gerona (616 ft. j Fonda Jtaliana^, a quaint old town
with 16,600 inhab., lies between the Ter on the N., the bleak forti-
fied height of Montjvich on the N.E., and the Ona on the W. It
lies partly in the plain, and partly spreads in the form of an amphi-
theatre over the slopes of the Montjuich. A bridge over the Ona
connects the old town with the suburb of El Mereadal. The QaUi"
gana flows through the town and into the Ofia.
The ancteat name of the town was Oerunday and the Arabs, into whose
hands it fell in 713, called it DJenmda. Charlemagne took it firom the
Moors in 785, but they recaptured and plundered it ten years later. It
was restored by the Counts of Barcelona. After the union of Catalonia
and Aragon Cp- 185) the crown-prince bore the title of *Principe de Gerona\
In consequence of its adherence to ttie Hapsburg^, Gerona was deprived
of its university aad privileges at the end of the Spanish War of Succes-
sion. The heroic defence of tbe town in 1609 is celebrated. A small
Spanish garrison, aided by a handful of English volunteers, resisted for
seven long months a French army of 35,000 men under Verdier, St. Cyr,
and Augereau ^ and it was famine and the complete lack of ammunition
only that finally caused its surrender on De?. 12th. Even the women shared
in the heroism of the defenders. Mariano Alvarez, who comzoanded the
garrison, was latterly prostrated by the strain of the defence and died the
following year (1810). He was succeeded by Samanieffo. The French lost
15,000 men during the siege.
In addition to its beautiful site and the fine view from its citadel,
Gerona also possesses a good deal of architectural interest.
ioBarrelona, GERONA. 75. Route. 1S9
The Gothie ^CATiniDBAL wts begun In 1912 on the site of an
etxlier clinreb, which had been reconsecrated in 1088, after the
expnision of the Moors. The first part completed was the apse,
which was constmcted, after the plan of Barcelona Cathedral, with
an ambnlatory and nine radiating chapels. Enrique of Nafhotme
and JaccfO de FavarUt of the same town are named as architects ;
and BarOiolomi Argenta completed this part of the church in 1326-
46. In 1416 OuUlermo Boffly made the plan for the huge alslele ss
nave ; but his design seemed so bold to the cathedral chapter, that
they had it examined by a special junta of architects before adopting
it The nave was not finished till well on in the 16th cent. (1579?).
The campanile was begun in 1581 ; the facade, which is preceded
by a flight of 86 steps, dates from 1607 and was modernized in
1733. The terracotta figures of apostles at the S. side-door were
executed in 1458.
IvTBBiom. The span of the naTe ie 73 ft. t, without counting the side
ehapels between the hnge buttresses. Unfortunately the eflTect of its fine
proportiODS is marred by the intrusion of the coro. The sUleria dates
from the 14th cent, but was modernised in the 16th. The CapiUa Metyor
contains the elaborate high-altar, of 1820-48, which is of wood, covered
with thin plates of silver, and adorned with gilding and coloured stones.
It is diTided into three stages of niches, containing reliefs, and stands
under a canopy of similar workmanship, borne by four columns. The
charch contslns numerous tombs and monoments. Among the most in-
teresting are those of Biahop Bereng^ur (d. 1406), in the capilla mayor, to
the left: of CoMNl Ramon Berengtter II. (d. 1062), dating from the end of
the 14th cent., above the door of the sacristy; the Counteu ErmemndU
(d. 1057), between the chapels of Corpus Christi and San Juan; Bitftop
Ang^e$oia; and Bernardo de Pau^ one of the founders of the chnrch. in tlie
ChApel of St. Paul (first to the left of the main entrance \ monument of the
16th cent.). On the V. wall is the wheel of be' Is used at the elevation of
the host, in a tasteful wooden case.
The irregular Romanesque Gloistsbs (Cknutro) date from the beginning
of the llhh century. The Cementirio de loe UTegroe contains old inscriptions
and tombstones. Among the treasures of the Archive and the Sola Capitular
are several processional crosses (guiones) of the 16-16th cent. ; a copy of
the Apoealypse of 974: and a Bible belonging to Charlea V. of France,
illuminated by Bernardo de Hutina (18th cent.), some of the initials of
which are adorned with the Arabic words for ^Ood is our refuge".
A little to the S. of the cathedral is the conspicuous collegiate
church of San FsLfu, which is in the Transitional style, though the
choir was not finished till 1318. At the W. end are two octagonal
towers, one of which is unfinished, while the other ends iu a trunc-
ated spire (1392). To the E. the church ends in a semii-ircular apse,
which is adjoined by a smaller apse on the N. and two small apses
on the S.
Ihtsbiob. Embedded in the walls of the choir are eight sarcophrtgi,
two of which are Boman (Rape of Proserpine, Lion Hunt), while the other
six are early-Ohrittian and bear Biblical scenes. The painted and gilded
sarcophagus above the high-altar contains the remains of St. Felix. —
The cloisters date from 13o7-68.
t The nave of York Cathedral is 52 ft. wide, that of Notre Dame 48 ft.,
that of Cologne Cathedral U ft., that of Toulouse Cathedral 63 ft.
190 Route 15. MONTSENY. From Pemgnan
To theW. of tlie cathedral is the Romanesqne church of San Pedro
de lo8 OcUligans, the plan of which resembles that of San Felfn. Its
E. end is incorporated in the newer line of city-walls, of which its
apse actually forms a bulwark. The W. door has some flue carving.
The cloisters of this church are fitted up as the Museo Provincial,
containing architectural remains, Roman and Christian tombs , and
other sculptures. — Between the churches of SanFeliu and San Pedro
is a Capuchin nunnery, containing the so-called BanoaAra&e* (Moorish
baths), a small octagonal building with columns, which was probably
built as a Christian chapel.
From Gerona diligencea run to tbe W. to Angks^ in the vallev of the
Ter; to the 8.E. to San Felitt de GuixoU (U. 8. Cons. Agent, Jose Sibils),
on the sea-coast; and to the N.W. to Olot (p. 188).
CoNTiNTTATioN OF RAILWAY. The tiaiu swecps round to the W.
and then follows the valley of the Ofia towards the S. — 72 M. FomeUs.
To the right are the Monies de San HUario, to the left the Monies
Odbdrras, The fertile district is sprinkled with small pine-woods.
— 76V2 M. RiudeU6t8 de la SeUa. We cross the Ofia.
79 M. Caldas de Malavella, on the Riera de Caldas^ with thermal
springs (150® Fahr.), known to the Romans and containing chlorine,
potash, and magnesia. The season ftemperada') lasts from May 15th
to Oct. 15th. — The scenery is attractive, and woods abound.
82 V2 M. Sils lies near a large marshy lake, which is a fruitful
source of fever. A diligence runs hence to (6 M.) Santa Coloma de
FamSs, beautifully situated on the Montes de San Hilario. — The
railway follows the W. bank of the lake and the canal which drains
it and crosses the Riera de Santa Coloma.
87 M. Empalme (Rail. Restaurant), a junction where the railway
forks into the Linea Interior (see below) and the Linea del Litoral
(see p. 192), both running to Barcelona and reaching it at the same
terminus (comp. pp. 186, 194).
The Inland Line skirts the N.W. slope of the Sierra de Nuestra
Senora de Corredo and for a time ascends along the left bank of the
small river Tordera. 90 M. ffostalrich, a closely built little town,
picturesquely situated on a hill rising from the Tordera and com-
manded by a fort. Some of the houses are built against the old city
walls, in which windows have been inserted. The strength of the
natural position and of the fortifications of this picturesque little
town has made it figure prominently in the contests between France
and Spain and in the Catalonian revolutions.
The dominant feature of the scenery from this point almost all
the way to Barcelona is the (right) ^Montseny (5690 ft.), an im-
posing serrated mountain-ridge, describing a semicircle round the
valley of the Tordera. It is generally capped with snow. The ascent
is usually made from ArbUdas, to which a diligence runs from
Hostalrlch. — We now cross the 'rambla' of Arbucias and reach
(94 M.) Breda. To the right is tbe old castle of AfomoKu.— 96 M.
to Barcelofi^. GRANOLLfiRS. 16. Route. 191
OuaJEba^ the first station in the province of Barcelona. — We now cross
the Rambla de Partagds and reach (98^/2 M.) San CtUyni^ an old
eommandery of the Templars. — 100 M. Falautordera. To the W., in
an attractive plain, is the village of Santa Maria de Palautordera, The
train crosses the Rawbla de Trenta Fasos and enters the fertile valley
of the Mogeni, 106M. LUnda; IO7V2M. Cardedea. We now descend
the slopes of the Corro and enter the populous district of ValUs,
watered hy the Mogent and the Congott. Its central point is —
112 M. Oraaomn del YaU^B, an industrial town with 6800 in-
hab., which ha« no special attractions of its own but is a good centre
for excursions.
The most iniereating of these is that to San Migml del Fay., an Im-
posing basaltic amphitheatre, watered by the Miguel and containing an
abandoned convent and some fine waterfalls, at the foot of one of which
is the church of Bt. Michael of Fay. Adjacent is a cavern with beautiful
stalactites. Other points visited from Granoll^rs are the castle of Xa
Roea (21/iM.), the Somaaesque chareh of San FeHu ds CanovelUu (IM.),
and the ermita of Ifuestra Smora de BMula , which commands a view of
the Hontserrat (p. 218).
FsoM GxAVOLL^Bs TO San Jdam dk LA8 Abadsus, 56 M., railway in
3i/2-5>/4 hrs. (fares 10 p. 5, 7 p. 56, 4 p. 65 c.)- In the height of summer
an express runs direct from Barcelona to San Juan in 4 hrs. — The line
runs towards the If., at first following the Congest. 2 H. Las Franqueseu;
5>/« M. La Garriga. To the right rises the Montseny. 8 M. Figard; 12 M.
San Martin de Centelku; 15 M. CentelUu, with a Benai^sanee church, pic-
turesquely situated on the Pidg da Oiler. Xear (18Vs M.) Balenyd are Tona
and CoUsuepina^ two villages celebrated for their cheese.
25 M. Tieh (1675 ft.), an old town and bishop's see with 9100 inhab.,
is situated on both aides of the Merder, a small affluent of the Ter. The
Cathedral^ founded in 1040 and modernized in 1803, contains a fine old
marble altar, with scenes from the life of St. Peter. The Gothic cloisters
of the 14th cent, are renowned for the exquisite tracery in their windows.
The chapter-library has some valuable MSS. The important Episcopal
Mtueo Arqueoldgieo Jrtietico^ containing antiquities, pictures, sculptures,
etc., deserves a visit. — Beyond Vich, to the left, is the village of OiUb^
above which, on the Monte Salvador., is a ruined castle.
The railway now ascends the valley of the Ter. 30 V* M. Manlleu;
36 H. ToreUd ; 40V2 M. San Qidrico. We enter the province of Gerona.
48 M. Bipoll (2220 ft.), a small town with 2800 inhab. and important
coal-pits , has been rebuilt since its misfortunes in the Garlist wars. Its
chief lion is the fine Chweh of the Benedictine Convent (now suppressed),
which was erected by Wilfrid the Shaggy (p. 185) aa the burial-place of
the Ck>unts of Barcelona and Besalu. The massive nave dates from the
9- 10th cent., the transept and apse from the 11th, the side-chapels, mon-
uments, and altars from the 12-15th, and the choir from the 16th eentury.
The W. facade is covered with sculptures. The Romanesque cloisters have
112 arches and are in two stories. — From Ripoll bridle-paths lead to
Puigeerdd and Seo de Urgel (p. 217).
55 X. San Juan de lot Abadescu^ the terminus of the railway, with
large iron and coal mines. — A road leads hence to Camprodon (3770 ft.),
which lies at the junction of the Val de Ter and the Val de Riiori, two
wild and little explored valleys of the Pyrenees.
Beyond GranolMrs the railway crosses the Congest, the wild valley
of which is seen to the right. 117 M. Montmeld, lying between two
isolated hills. We cross the Rieras de Pa/reto and de MoUet. To the right
is the Costa de Mar; to the left are the Montanas Matas (1640 ft.)
and the castle of La Roca. — From (19 M.) MoUet or Sant Vicens de
1 92 Route t5. ARENYS DE MAR. From Perpignan
Mollet a branch-railway runs to the N.W. to (9 M.l Caldas dt Mont-
buy, an ancient wateiing-place with hot springs (158® Fahr.).
The line now again skirts the Gongost, crossing its affluents the
Biera dt Caldas, the RUra 8eca, and the RipoUet To the left is
the church of Beixaeh. — 123 M. Moncada, with the ruins of an
ancient castle. The Congest, now called the Beads^ forces its way
ihrongh. Monte\Tibiddbo (p. 211). The railway runs parallel with
that to L^rida (R. 17)» between the Bes6s on the right and the Aee-
quia del Conde on the left. — 125 M. Santa Coloma de Oramanet, on
the other side of the river, with many villas ; 125^/4 M. San AndrSt
(Sant Andreu) de Palomar^ a manufacturing suburb of Barcelona,
with 12,700 inhab.; 1261/2 M. Horta, with the Laberinto of the
Marques de Alfarras and the CasadeFontaletj the residence of Arch-
duke Charles in the War of the Spanish Succession. — 128 M. Clot,
with its large industrial establishments, is included within the limits
of Barcelona. The train runs between factories and country-houses,
sweeps round the park, passes the bull-ring (left), and draws up in
the Estacidn de Francia at (131 M.) Barcelona (p. 194).
The Coast Railway (^Linea de Matard y del Litoral; 47 M.,
in 3-3 V4 hrs. ; fares 8 p. 80, 6 p. 73, 4 p. 58 c), which diverges from
the inland line at Empalme (p. 190), is generally considered the
more attractive of the two, though it misses the view of the imposing
Montseny (p. 190). It sweeps round to the N. of the Sierra de Ma-
zanet and then descends along the left bank of the Tordera,
93 M. (from Perpignan) Tordera; the small town, which has
some reputation for its lace, lies on the right bank of the river. The
fertile region around is intersected by hedges of aloe. — 961/2 M.
Blanes, IV4 M. to the S.W. of the town, which also manufactures
lace. The men, as in most of these coast-towns, are mostly fisher*
men, sailors, or tillers of the soil.
The railway turns to the S.W. at right angles and twice crosses
the Tordera, which is often very turbulent. 99 M. Malgrat. To the
right lies the village of Santa Susana,
The line now traverses the sandy coast. 102 VsM. Pineda; 104 M.
CaleUa, a flshing-town with 3600 inhabitants. Several rocky points
are penetrated by means of tunnels. Above the first of these is the
lighthouse of La Torreta, Farther on is the promontory of La Cobra,
The construction of this part of the line is full of interest. IO61/2M.
San Pol de Mar, at the foot of the headland of that name. The
headlands of Ven Batista and Cigala are passed by cuttings and tun-
nels. — Beyond (109 M.) Can^t de Mar, a lace- making town with
3000 inhab. , we intersect the promontories of Las Rosas and La Serp.
IIOV2M. Arinysde Haif Fonda del Siglo), a town of 4200 inhab.,
picturesquely situated at the foot of the Monte Calvdrio, On the
height to the right lies Ar^nys de Munt, to which 'tartauas' (p. 253)
ascend. The town possesses a nautical school, maintained by the
to Barcelona. MATARO. 15, Route, 193
meichantfl of Barcelona. — Just beyond the station is a tunnel. To
tke right are the Banos de Tito. The railway winds through the
locks on the seashore and crosses the CaldeUu, On the right rises
the Torre de los Eneantadoe,
II2V2 M. Caldetas (Caldaa d'EstraehJ, consisting of Caldetaa de
Mar and Caldetas de Dalt (de Arr&a), or lower and upper Caldetas ,
and possessing some warm springs (105" Fahr.). To the right are the
CAstle of Rocdberti and a number of country-houses. Farther on are
the Tillages of San Vicente de LUvaneras and San Andrfs de LUvane"
ras and the tower of the ruined castle of Notr^ Arfan, We cross the
rtmbla of San Simon and traverse the suburb vfHabana.
117 M. Hatard (Fonda de Montserrat; Restaurant de Franef a) y
an important seaport and industrial town , with 17,100 inhab., is
divided into an upper or old town and a lower or modem town.
The Parish Church contains paintings by Viladomat (p. 201) and
Montana.
To the right, as we oontinue our journey, are the castle of Bo-
riache and the carbonated chalybeate spring of Argentona, which may
be reached from Mataro (IV4 M*) by tartana. Farther on are Cabrera
and Cabrils, known for their roses and strawberries.
I2OV2 M. VUasary consisting of Vilasar de Dalt (or de Arrihd)
and Vilasar de Mar, The upper town still possesses a few medijBval
watch-towers (atalayas), dating from a time when this whole coast
had to be guarded against pirates. — Farther on is the castle of
Vilasar, with the Torre del Homenaje. ^ 122 M. Premid de Mar;
then, Premid de Dali^ almost entirely hidden by groves of oranges
and olives.
124 M. OcatUj with a Romanesque and a mediasval tower, is a
suburb of (124 1/2 M.) Masnou, which lies in a picturesque amphi-
theatre. Tartanas run hence to the orange-growing village ofAleya,
— The train crosses the Aleya and the Tava and threads a tunnel.
127^2 M. Mongol, with a castle famed for its resistance to the
French in 1808. A pleasant excursion may be made to the Car-
thusian convent of Montalegre, founded by Juan de Nea in the be-
ginning of the 15th cent, and destroyed in the stormy year 1835.
1281/2 M. Badalona, the Betulo of the Romans and now one of
the outer suburbs of Barcelona, lies in the midst of a rich plain and
contains 14,800 inhab. and several large factories. — Farther on we
cross the Bes6s (p. 192), the water of which is in summer sometimes
entirely absorbed by the needs of Barcelona. We pass many other
factories and the suburb of (131 V2 M.) Pud>lo Nuevo, which contains
the E. cemetery (p. 210). To the right is the park, to the left are
the bull-ring and Barceloneta.
134 M. Barcelona, see p. 194.
Basdekbb'8 Spain. 13
194
16. Barcelona* ^
Railway Stations. 1. Estacidn de Francia^ Paseo dela AduanaC
9, 10 ; reataurant), near the harbour, for the railways to Gerona, Por
and Perpignan (R. 15), to Martorell (Reus \ R. 19b), to San Vicente di
ders, Reus, and Saragossa (R. 19), via San Vicente to Roda de Ban
Picamoixons (L^rida^ p. 215), and to Tarragona (Tortosa, Valencia ; 1
also for the express to Madrid via Villanueva every Taes., Thurs., an<
evening, returning from Madrid on Mon., Wed., and Frid. — 2. E% ^.
del Norte (PI. 1, 8^ restaurant), for trains to Monistrol, L^rida, and '
gossa (R. 17). — 3. Ettacidn de Villanueva (Pi. E, 10), a suppleuK
station for the eoast-line to Reus. — 4. Estacidn de Sarrid (PI. G, 8
local trains to Sarrid. — The trains are met by the Hotel Omnibiue,
Omnibus General (comp. p. xvi^ fare 25 c, each article of luggage 25-
and Cab» (p. 195). — Detpacho Centrdl (p. xvl), Rambla del Centre (PI.
Arrival by Sea. The steamers anchor to buoys or land on the
of the inner port. Rowing-boats always ply to meet vessels (50 c.
article of luggage 25-50 c). The porter (Fajin or Mozo de Cordel),
carries the luggage to the Aduana^ receives y^-i p. Drive thence
hotel, see above.
Hotels (comp. p. xx and PI. II, p. 198). *Gkand Hotel (foi
Cuatt'o Nadonet; PI. a, F 9), Rambla del Centro 35, opposite the
Principal, d^j. with wine 4, D. with wine 5, pens, from 10 p. ;
Hotel Continental (PI, b; G, 8), Rambla Canaletas 10, at the coi
the Plaza de Cataluna, with a large cafe-restaurant, d^j. or D. 5,
from 10 p. ; "^Gran Hotel de Inolaterra , corner of Paseo de (
and Puerta del Angel (PI. G, 8)5 *Hot. Falcon t Central (PI. ci :
Plaza del Teatro 5, ddj. or D. 3, pens. 10-12 p.^ *Hot. de Or
(PL d: F, 9), Rambla del Centro 20, W. side, d^j. 3, D. 4, pens. 8
omn. iVs P- h Hotel Ahbos Mcndos, Ronda San Pedro. — Less pr(
ing: Hot. Peninsular (PL e ; F, 9), Calle de San Pablo 34, B. 1, d^j. 2
21/2, pens. 5-6, omn. 1 p., well spoken of j Fonda de EspaSTa (PL f ; '
Calle de San Pablo 9, d^j. 2V2, D. 2»/2, pens. 6 p. ; Hot. Internacl
(PL g: F, 9), Llano de la Boqueria 1, corner of the Rambla del Cq
pens. Op. ; Fonda del Comercio, Calle Escudillers 15 (PL G, 9), pens. 5,
Hotel de Cataluna, Plaza Real (PL F, 9), pens, from 5 p. 5 Fonda*
Universo, Plaza de Palacio 3 (PL H, 9). near the harbour, pens, fromf
— Casaa de Huespedes (comp. p. xx). Pedro Mayoral^ Calle Cold
Cam Americana, Calle San Pablo 32^ Simoneili, Plaza del Teatro 3 •, Cata l
zini^ Paseo Colon: Mrs. De Bergue^ Rambla Cataluna 123. — FurniL
Rooms. Maison Meublie de Frangois^ Calle de los Escudillers 5 (PL 09
Maisom Metibliet, Rambla del Centro 37, Calle Conde del Asalto 20,
Calle Union 4 (English spoken).
Cafes (comp. p. xxii), generally elegantly fitted up, especially tho8|
the Rambla del Centro 5 many are also restaurants. On the W. sift
the Rambla, named from B. to N. : Americano^ Oriente (see above),
(in the Teatro del Liceo)^ on the E. side: Cm^ral (see above), Suito^ x
(both with restaurant and a second entrance in the Plaza Real), Mm
Continental (see above). Oafi de Francia (see below); Ca/6 Espafhl^
Real, with a large billiard-room ; Ca/4 de la Alhambra, Paseo de Graclft
Cafi Colon^ Cafi Novedades^ both in the Paseo de Gracia, with large bill!
rooms. — In summer numerous Horchaterias (comp. p. xxii) are open. ^
Restaurants (comp. p. xxi). At most of the above-named caf^s I
hotels. Also: *Restavra7U de Franda^ Plaza Real 12, d^j. from 4, D. fd
5p. ; Restaurant de Martin^ Rambla del Centro 5, d^j. or D. from 4p. ; |
tiaurant Universal^ Rambla Santa Monica 2, moderate. *JRe»taurant Miran
on the Mon^uich, with fine view. In summer there are two
restaurants at the BdHoi de Mar (p. 196).
t In the references to the plans of the city, PL I indicates the la
general plan opposite, PL II that of the inner city. References wh<|
neither numeral is given apply to both plans.
"^
:^!;^..
yi t
^^^^^^^pl
\
utmi^^ty xgoue
1-2 pers.
3-4 pers.
1 p.
ii/a p.
iv«»
a .
2 «
2V« »
3 n
3V« «
2 „
3 n
8 ,
37. n
8 n
3Va »
6 „
6 n
BARCELONA. IS, Route, 195
Beer Hmmi (Cerweeria$).9M with Bavarian beer. JiaMoifrwW Gam-
brmu^ Rambla Santa Monica 39, E. side; Lwn d'Oro^ Plasa del Teatro 6;
£«««i*Hhi, Bambla del Centro, W. side; C<^fi Suite ^ see p. 19A: On/i-
Rakntrant ConUmmtaX^ see p. 194; Rutaurant Peninnikur^ Plasa de CataluSa;
Citfi AUuimbraj see p. 194 v Cerveeeria Gambrintu^ Plaza Gataluna.
Oaba iC0eh€» de Plata^ Carru^^et; tariff in
each vehicle).
Cab with one horse, per drive
r, n « 1 at night .
„ „ , per hour ....
n n „ , at night .
Cab with two horses, per drive ....
n n „ , at night
, „ , per hour . . .
» n „ , at night
The night-fares are due in winter from 8 p.m. in 7 a.m., in sum-
mer from 9 p.m. to 6 a.m. — An extra fare of 60 c. is charged for drives
to Railway BtaHotu and SUamhcat Quays. Luggage up to 66 lbs. is reckoned
as 1 pers. ; the driver is bound to carry it from the house to the cab or
vice versa. In driving by time (por hora) the first hour is paid for in
full, each hour additional is charged as half-an-hour. — For drives outside
the town the tariff per hour is usually paid, but the consent of the driver
must be previously obtained. — In the case of complaini) the coachman
is bound to drive his passenger to the AlealcKa without charge.
Tramwaya (Tranviat): comp. the Plan and p. 201; fare 10 c, on Sun.
and holidays 16 c. The main lines cross the city from the harbour to
Oraeia and ran round the old town ( Tramrta dt Ciramvalacidn) ; others
run to Barceloneta and other suburbs. EUetrie Line$ are now being laid
through the principal streets and to the suburbs. — Steam Tbamwat from
the Plasa de Catalana to San Gervatio, Badalona, Glot, Scuis, and Sarrid.
Harbour Steamers ( Vapores Omntinu) ply everv 10 min. from the £m-
barcadero de la Paz (PI. F, 10) to Barceloneta Cp. 210; fare 10 c, there and
back 15 e.).
Bteamers (eomp. p. xvii) ply from Barcelona to Gette, Marseilles.
Genoa, Valencia, Mahon, Palma, Malaga, Liverpool, Glasgow, London,
Egypt, Manila, Cuba, Central and Southern America, etc. Almost all the
otfiees (DemcKhoi) are in the Paseo de Colon and Paseo de Isabel Segnnda
fPl. G, 9, 10) and the Plasa de Palacio (PI. H. 9, 10).
The Poat Office {Correo, PI. F 8; comp. p. xviii), in the Plasa del Buen-
suceso, is open for ^noste restante* business 8-11 and 3-6, for delivery of
registered letters 9-1, ror the despatch of registereii letters to foreign countries
10.90-2.30 and 6-9, for money-order business 10-12 and 3-6. — Telegraph
Offtee (TeligrafM) ^ Bonda de la Universidad 19 (PI. E, 7) and Plaza del
Teatro. — Telephone Offlee (Telifonot)^ C ille de Zurbano 4, near the Plaza
Real (PI. F, 9).
Thoatrea (comp. p. zxvi* performances usually from mid-Sept, to the
end of Mav). •Gran Teatro del Liceo (PI. F, 9), Bambla del Centro, built
in 1847, with room for 3600 persons. Italian operas; prices as in the Teatro
Real of Madrid (p. 67). — Teatro Principal (PI. F, 9), Plaza del Teatro ;
2600 seats. Dramas, comedies, and ballets ; performances by Italian com-
panies in spring. — Teatro del Circo Barcelonit^ Galle de Montserrat; Teairo
lAHco (PI. I; G, 6), Galle de Mallorca; Teatro de CataluHa, Bambla de Cata-
luna; T. de Novedadu (PI. G, 7), Galle Caspe (Circus in summer): T. Tivoli
(PI. G, 7), Galle Caspe, a summer-theatre. — Theatrea of yariettea (Cafie
Camtantee): Eden Concert^ Galle Gonde del Asalto 12; Alcdzar EspaMol, Galle
de la Union 7; Palais des Flew*, Galle de los Escudillers 6.
Boll Bins {Pkua de Torot; PI. H 10; comp. p. xxvi), in Barceloneta,
built in 1834 and renewed in 1887, with 14,500 places. The 'corridas' do
not rank very high ; the Catalan lacks the ^embestida' of the Spaniard.
OycUsff Sink irOddromo; PI. I, £ 3), built in 1893, Galle de Molodell,
in the subnrb of Gervasio, not far from the Bonanova station (p. 211).
13*
i96 Route 16. BARCELONA. Festivals.
Basque Ball Games {Juego» de Filota; comp. p. xxix) in the Fronidn
Barcelona (PI. I; I, 7), Calle de la Diputacidn, built in 1893 (30C0 seats),
and in the Fronton Condal in Gracia, a large covered building lighted by
electricity, where games go on also at night.
Shops (comp. p. xxiii). The best are in the Calle de Fernando Septimo
and the PI za Real. Among the chief local manufactures may be mentioned
the beautiful point lace (pwUas^ encajei) and blond lace (blondat^ encajtz
de teda). The cloth made in the factories of Sabadell is also fine — The
swords, knives, and inlaid work of Toledo (p. 147) are sold by Vives, Calle
de Fernando Septimo 2^. — Tasteful objects in gold and silver, such as
the arrctcadcu or Catalonian earrings, in the Calle de la Platerfa. — Pre-
served meat^, confectionery, and liqueurs kept by Parent Hermanoi^ Bambla
del Centro 36, and Foituny Hermanos, Calle Hospital.
Booksellers. Libreria Francesa, Enrique Lopez ^ A. Verdagwr, Kambla
del Centro, Nos. 8, 20, and 6; Libreria Nacional y Extrcmjera (Schulze),
Calle Conde de Asalto 16 (al^o p) otoi^raphs and music; information will>
ingly given to strangers). — Photogbaphs: Luran, Calle Fernando 33.
Cigars, see p. xxiii. Genuine ^Tabagos Ha.tanos'* may be obtained at
Rambla del Centro b2.
Banks. Cridit Lponnait^ Bambla del Centro 28; Banco de E^cMa^
BAmbla de Santa M6nica 27; Vidal Quadras JBermano*^ Porticos de Vidal2.
— Honey Changfrs {Cambit'os de Moneda; comp. p. xiij: Cridit LyonnaU.
see above; several others in the Bambla del Centro.
Baths (Btfioi): Pasaje de la Paz 3, Bambla de Estudios 9, Calle del
Teatro 9- In summer warm and cold sea-water b iths (60 c, bathing dress
26 c.) may be had at the LaSioe de Mar^ Barceloneta. Swimmers will find
it preferable to take a boat and row to the outer harbour.
Physicians. Dr, B. Robert^ Calle Cortes 24S ; Dr. Rodr. Mendez^ Paseo
de Gracia 90; Dr. Bonet^ Paseo de Gracia 21; Dr. Cardenal, Pasaje Mer-
cader 13; Dr. Franc. PaeartlL Dormitorio de San Francisco 25. Homeo-
pathic: Dr Joii Civil, Calle Santa Ana 24. — Dentists. Dr. Montgomery,
Dr. Willianu, both Bambla Cataluna; Dr. Gabedo, Pla/a Beal; Dvfreme,
Bambla de Canaletas 4.
Apothecaries. Farmdcia del Gldbo (Dr. Jimeno), Plaza Beal; Farmdda
del Dr. Bormiytiera. Calle de Fernando Septimo; Farmdcia de Colon de
Tomas Sanchie, Kambla del Centro 31.
Consulates. British Consul, J. F. Roberts, Calle de la Plata 7; Vice-Con-
sul, F. Witty; Pro-Consul, John W. Witty. — U.S. Consul General, Herbert
W. Bowen^ Bambla de Santa Monica 2; Vice-Consul, H. H. Rider.
Lloyd's Agents. MacAndrews & Co.., 13 Porticos de Xifre.
English Cuurcb, Calle de las Cortes 346; chaplain. Rev. G. F. Jackson,
Calle de Bruch 129. — Seamen's Institute, Calle Cristina 8.
Exhibition of Art in tbe Salon Paris, Calle de Petritxol 3 (E. side of
the Bamt'la San Jos^), open throughout the year. — Industrial or Inter-
national Exhibition in spring.
Popular Festivals. Jan. 1st. New Tear's Day. — Jan. 8th. Concepeion de
la Immamlada. — Jan. 17th. Fete of St. Antony, with blessing of domestic
animals Cc. ballerias'). — Feb. 12th. FeU of St. Eula'ia, at Sarria (p. 211).
— From Jan. till the end of tbe Carnival Masked Balls (Bailes de Mascaras)
are held at the di£ferent theatres. The last day of the Carnival is celebrated
with great exuber nee, before its 'buriiir on the first day of Lent (Miircole*
de Ceniza). Probably more than half the population of Barcelona passes
the day outside the gates. — On March 3rd takes place a great Bomeria
to Rita de Monte, above Gracia (p. 211). — St. Joseph's Day (Mar. 19th) is
kept by a round of eating und drinking in the confectioners'' shops, dairies,
and taverns. — The Lamb lair takes place in Gracia and the Pas^o de
Gracia at Easter and Whitsuntide. — April 23rd. Fete of St. George in his
chapel (p. 207), with a fair for flowers and toys in the Audiencia. — On
the first Sun. in May, in the Sala de Contrata clones of the Lonja (p. 208),
"Te held the BO-caW^^ J ochs Floral, ov Floral Games, a series of poetic con-
for which the prize, after the Provengal fashion, is an artificial flower
«} title *Mestre en Gay Saber' (Master of the Gay Science). These
SUuatian. BARCELONA. 16. Route. 197
contefts were founded by John I. of Aragon in 1393 for the encouragement
of Catalan poetry, and were reeusritated in 1849. — On Corptu ChrisH Day
the yoang people distribute flowere and sweetmeats among the ladies, and
there ia a great proce^aion from the Cathedral all round the old city. — The
fitee of Si. John and St. Ptltr are ct>Kbri ted by bull-fl^hta and by music
and dancing in the Rambla and the Paseo de Oracii (p. '4:02). — Sept. 24th.
Fittta Ma^cr d$ Barcelona^ a great hnlidav with bull-fghts. — On the Day 0/
JU iSatiKa and the Day cf All Srml* (Kov. l.«t and 2nd) the cemeteries 1 re vi-
sited and the graves decked with flowers. — On St. Thomai» Day (Dec. 21 st)
is held the annual Fa<r of Barcelona, irequented by (icturesque peasants.
Gliief Attractiena (lVr2 days). Ist Day. Walk from the Colunibut
Monummi (p. 199) up the Rambta (p. 20 >)^ Fkua Real (p. 200); through
the Calle de Fernando Septlmo to the Pkua de la Comtilve dn^ wi'h the
mpniaeidn (p. 2i6); Cathedral (p. 20)). Af'emoon: Through the Calle de
la Prince-a to the Park (p. 209); Pima de Palacio (p. 208); Harbour (p. 199);
Santa Maria dd Mar fp. 206). — 2nd Day. Along tite Rambla to the Flaxa
de CatahMa (p. 201); Paeeo de Gracia (p. 202). Exturfion to Sarrid (p. 211).
Barcelona, the capital of the old Principado de CataluTia^ and
now seat of the Captain-General of Catalonia, of a bishop, and of a
university, lies in the same latitude as Rome, in an undulating plain,
which slopes gradually up to the hills on the N.W. (highest point
TibiddbOj 1745 ft.) and is bounded on the N.E. by the Montanae
Malas and on the S.W. by the Montjuick (p. 210). The natural
outlets of this pleasant basin (6 M. long and 2'/2~^ M. wide) are the
valley of the Besds on the N. and a gap on the S.W. leading to the
spacious valley of the Llohregat, The whole of the undulating plain
is covered witii the so-called Exiramuroa, consisting of innumerable
villages (pu^dosjj palaces, manufactories, farms, rural churches
(ermitcu), and country-houses (torres). These now crowd so closely
upon one another that the new Barcelona may be expected in a few
more years to be ten times as large as the old city. The chief point
of interest for the stranger is Old Barcelona^ lying at the S. end of
the basin, near the base of the Montjuich. The so-called Ensanche
(extensions) or new quarters contain a great number of tasteful and
even magnificent modem buildings.
Old Barcelona forms a kind of irregular hexagon, the S.E. side
of which is bounded by the harbour. From about the middle of this,
towards the N. , runs a wide street named the Rambla (p. 200), which
intersects the whole of the old city, dividing it into the Ribera on
the £. and the ArrabAl on the W. About halfway up the Rambla,
to the right, diverges the Calle de Fernando Septimo, leading, with
its prolongations the Calle de Jaime Primero and the Calle de la
Princesa, to the Park (p. 209). This line of streets traverses the
so-called Monte TAhety a low hill which formed the original Komano-
Carthaginian kernel of the town. Its highest point is now occupied by
the cathedral. The place of the old city-walls is now taken by wide
boulevards. To the W. and N. these are known as *rondas* ; to the
N.E. they combine, under the name of the Sal6n de San Juan and
the Pasi^o de la Industria, with the park. With the exception of the
Rambla, the streets of the old town are dark and narrow ; they are,
however, the scene of a perpetual activity and their balconied houses
^QB BouU 16. BARCELONA. History.
are handsome and picturesque. S.quares and open spaces are con-
spicuously absent, and there is no free Tiew of the sea, which is
almost entirely concealed hy the lofty moles, the shipping at the
■wharves, and the suhurh of Barceloneta. The city is seen at its best
in an afternoon stroll under the shady plane-trees of the Rambla,
or after dark, when the shops in the Calle de Fernando Septimo and
the caf^s in the Rambla are brilliantly illuminated and thousands of
promenaders are enjoying the cool evening-breeze from the hills.
Under such conditions as these the modem traveller may almost be
tempted to agree with Don Quixote (II. 72) when he calls Barcelona
Hhe seat of courtesy, the haven of strangers, the refuge of the dis-
tressed, the mother of the valiant, the champion of the wronged, the
abode of true friendship, and unique both in beauty and situation.'
The Olimats of Barcelona (comp. p. xxxi)is singularly pleasant;
the summer is not too warm, while in winter it almost never freezes
and snow is a great rarity. The prevailing winds are the LlevarUy or
rain-bringing E.* wind; the Oargalj or N.E. wind, which blows
mainly in spring and is also moist; the S.W. LUveig or Qarbf, which
betokens clear weather; and the dry Af«iraZ, or N.W. wind, the
harbinger of winter. Its sheltered situation adapts Barcelona for a
winter-residence for invalids, but they should seek a dwelling to the
E. of the Rambla, or near the Paseo de Gracia (p. 202) or some
similar point in the sunny Ensanche.
The Hiatory of Barcelona coincides with that of Catalonia (p. 186)-
The old name of the city (Barcino) is generally, but erroneously, connected
with Hamilcar Barca, the Carthaginian. By Augustus it was raised, under
the name of Jtilia Augusta Pia FavetUia^ to the rank of a Roman colony:
and soon attained a considerable importance, rivalling Tarraco andEmporiee.
Barcinona grew and flourished under the Visigoths, who twice (415 and 531)
made it their temporary capital (comp. p. 129). Church-councils were held
here in 540 and 599. The Moors captured Bardjaluna in 713, Saint Louis in
801. From 874 onwards it was the seat of the Counts of Barcelona (p. 185).
During this period and afterwards, when Catalonia was united with
Aragon, Barcelona rivalled Genoa and Venice as one of the three great
trading cities of the Mediterranean. *She divided with them the lucrative
commerce with Alexandria*, and her port, thronged with foreigners from
every nation, became a principal emporium in the Mediterranean for the
spices, drugs, perfumes, and other rich commodities of the East, whence
they were diffused over the interior of Spain and the European Continent'
(Pracott). Its Contukxdo del Mar^ or code of maritime law, with which
it was invested in 1258 by James I. of Aragon, became, under the name
of *C6digo de las Costumbres Maritimas de Barcelona**, as authoritative in
mediaeval Europe as the Bhodian laws were in antiquity. The union
with Castile, and still more the great discoveries of the 15th cent., were
serious blows to its commercial supremacy. Barcelona naturally laid the
blame for its decline on the policy of the ''Spanish' government, and hence
its sympathies long oscillated between France and Spain. Unsuccessful
attempts at revolt, especially that in the Spanish War of Succession, led to
the abolition of its fudros (p. 185). The Bourbon dynasty built the citadel
and the hated walls, which were all the more intolerable because the city
was rapidly growing in industrial importance. The whole history of
Barcelona since then resolves itself into a series of revolts , street-fights,
and bombardments, the main object of which was the destruction of the
hampering fortifications. The desired liberty, however, was not attained
till i860.
■^ .it-
^^
■-'hj 1^1 1-.' :■ t'a-j^' ^^rt J — J
itVrtHTfb
7
rr^J^^^IgCTJ^
Harbouf. BARCELONA. le.Itoute. 199
^The architeetural history of Barcelona is mucli more complete, whilst
its bttUdinga are more numerous, than those of any of our own old cities,
of which it is in some sort the rival . . . The architecture of Gataluna
bod many peculiarities, and in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries,
when most of the great buildings of Barcelona were being erected, they
were so marked as to justify me, I think, in calling the style as completely
and exclusively national or provincinl, as, to take a contemporary English
example, was our own Norfolk middle-pointed. The examination of them
will, therefore, have mneh more value and interest than that of even
grander buildings erected in a style transplanted from another country,
such as we see at Burgos and Toledo \ and beside this, there was one
Kreat problem whieh I may venture to say that the Catalan architects satis-
factorily solved — the erection of churches of enormous and almost un-
equalled internal width' (Street).
Barcelona itself contains about 270,000 inhab., but this figure
is increased to 500,000 if we include the following suburbs, which
are now part of the city: Sa-M, Las Corts, San Oervcuio de CaS'
soUUy Or^eiciy Horta, San Andrit de Palomar^ and San Martin de
ProvenaaU, It is well entitled by the volume of its industry to the
title of the 'Manchester of Spain'. As is largely the case at Man-
chester, the great factories, however, are all outside the city. The
Harcelonians combine the vivacity of the Gaul with the dignity of
the Castilian, while their appreciation of music recalls the Teuton.
In no town in the Iberian peninsula flows a more vigorous and cheer-
ful tide of life ; and none makes so cosmopolitan an impression.
a. The Harbour. The Bambla and its Bide Streets.
The Paerto or Harbour (PL I; F, G, 10, 11) has an area of
290 acres, including the Ante-Puerto; it is thus larger than the three
harbours of Marseilles all put together, but considerably smaller than
that of Genoa. Its main aiis is fully 1 M. in length ; the width of
the entrance (to the S.) is 310 yds.; the depth is 26-50 ft. It is
sheltered from the sea by two long MueUes, or moles (1400 yds. and
700 yds. in length), which afford an admirable promenade. Smaller
moles divide the harbour into two basins, always full of shipping.
Along the N.W. side of the harbour stretches the •Pasko db
CoLOK (PL F, G, 10), a new quay, 140 ft. wide and planted with
palms. At its N. end, in the small Plaza de Antonio Lopez (PI. II ;
G, 9), near the Pas^o Isabel Segunda and the Plaza de Palac-.io
f p. 208), stands a monument, by Mestres and Vallmitjana (1883),
to Antonio Lopet^ Marquis de ComiUas, a noted ship-owner and
eiicourager of navigation. — No. 23 in the Pas^o de Col6n is marked
by a bust as the residence of Cervantes (?). Farther to the S.W. is
the small Plaza del Duque Medinaceli (PI. II ; G, 10), with a statue
of Qalceran Marquet^ a Catalan admiral, erected in 1851.
Towards the S.W. the Columbus Promenade ends fittingly in
the Plaza db la Paz, at the Koniimeiito k Col6n (PI. F, 10),
which is 200 ft. high and was erected in 1882-90 from a design by
the architect Cayetano Buhigas. The lower part of it consists of a
stone platform, surrounded by eight bronze lions and adorned with
200 BouU 16. BARCELONA. Bambla.
bronze reliefs of scenes from the life of Golumbas, by JobS Llimona
and Ant. Vilanova, medallions of his patrons, and allegorical figures
of Catalonia, Aragon, Leon, and Castile, by Carhanell, Carcaasd, Qa-
motj and Raf, Atch6. On this base rises a lofty iron column, support-
ing a large gilded ball on which stands a colossal statue of Columbus
(23 ft. high), by Baf. AiehS. Two flights of stairs and a lift (1 p.)
ascend to the ball, which commands a fine view of the harbour, the
city, the crescent of mountains round Barcelona, and the town-be-
sprinkled coast to the N.£.
The Columbus Monument stands opposite the S. end of the
*Bambla (PI. F, G, 10-8) , the imposing main street of the old
town, which is shaded by a double row of plane-trees and extends
from the harbour to the Plaza de Catalufia, a distance of S/4 M. Under-
neath it flows the Riera de Malla, which is now Taulted over. The
name Rambla, which is used throughout Spain for a dry river bed,
comes from the Arabic (p. xxxviii). The street resembles the Paris
boulevards, and like them its different sections bear different names.
The Rambla Santa Monica (PI. F, 10, 9), as the first part of
the street is named, contains (to the left) the arsenal and fort of
Aiarazanas, which was originally built by Jaime el Conquistador
(1243) and is now a barrack for 7000 men. The Sala de las Armas
is interesting. The whole building is, however, to be torn down.
The most animated part of the street is the Rambla del Csntro
(PL F, 9), in which lie the largest hotels and the most frequented
caf^s. This is the favourite promenade of the Barcelonians, both in
winter (12r-l) and summer (in the evening). To the left stands the
Teatro Principal (PI. F, 9 ; p. 195).
Opposite the Teatro Principal begins the CaUe de lot Escudillers
(PI. F, G, 9), one of the liveliest business-streets of the city. A little
higher up, on the same side, are the Pasaje Bercaldl and the short
Calle de Colon, leading to the •Plaza Real (PI. II ; F, 9), a square,
planted with palms and surrounded with arcadee, caf^s, and shops,
recalling the Palais Royal at Paris. In the middle is a handsome
fountain, with figures of the Graces. — Two passages lead to the
N.W. from the Plaza Real to the narrow CeUle de Fernando Septimo
(PL F, G, 9), which ascends gently from the Rambla del Centro to
the Plaza de la Constituci6n (p. 206). It contains some of the most
elegant shops in the city and is a favourite promenade on winter
evenings. A little to the N.W. is the Plaza de Beato Oriol (p. 201).
Farther to the N. in the Rambla del Centro, at the corner of the
CaUe de San Pablo , stands the Teatro del Liceo (PL F, 9). In the
first side-street of the Calle de San Pablo is the church of San Aguatin
(PL F, 9), a baroque building with a fine apse, erected by Pedro
Bertran in 1728-50 and injured by fire in 1835. In one of the side
chapels, on a smaU elevation (as in other churches of the city), is a
highly revered and extraordinarily ugly image of the Saviour. — To
e left, at the W. end of the Calle de San Pablo, is the Romanesque
Ramhla. BARCELONA. 16, Routt, 201
ehurcb of San Pablo del Caanpo (PI. £, 9), one of the oldest parish
churches in Barcelona, erected in 914 by Count Wilfrid II. outside
the town (hence ^del campo') for a Benedictine convent. It was
restored by OuSferto Cfuitardo in 1117, and is an excellent specimen
of early Catalan architecture. The round window in the facade is a
later interpolation. On the portal are the symbols of SS. John and
Matthew ; above is a hand in the attitude of benediction. The nave
and transept are covered with barrel-vaulting. Above the crossing
rises an octagonal cupola. The £. end has three parallel apses. The
capitals of the columns are interesting. To the S.E. of the church
are the Cloiatera, with cusped arches in the Saracenic style, rich
capitals, and coupled shafts. — We now return to the Rambla.
On the £. side of the Bambla, opposite the CaUe de San Pablo,
diverge the Riera de Pino and the Calle de Boqueria, with its curious
shops, both leading to the Plaza de Beato Oriol (PI. II ; G, 9). Here
stands the Gothic church of Banta Karia del Pino or Nuestra Senora
de lo8 Reya, erected In the 15th cent, on the site of an earlier struc-
ture and consecrated in 1453. It is a characteristic Catalonian church
with a huge nave and no aisles (comp. p. xliii). It is flanked on both
sides by a series of chapels and ends in a beautiful heptagon al apse.
In the W. facade is a large rose-window filled with line tra'^ery. The
stained-glass windows are handsome. In the 3rd side-chapel to the
rigbt is the tomb of Ant. Viladomat (1678-17651, the Catalonian
painter. To the N.E. is a lofty detarhed octagonal Tower, command-
ing a fine view. On Palm Sunday a consecrated pine-branch is hung
up here, in memory of the tradition that the church's image of the
Virgin was found In the trunk of a pine-tree.
The N. prolongation of the BambIa del Centre is named Uambla
San Jos£ (PL F, 9, 8) or db las Flores. In it is the Mercado de
SanJosS, where the flower market is held daily from early morning
to 2 p.m. all the year round. The display of flowers is magnificent
and well worth seeing. — Farther on is the Rambla db Estudios
(PL II; G, 8), in which, to the left, at the corner of the Calle del
Carmen, is the former Jesuit church of Nuestra Senora de Belen
(PL F, G, 8), buQt in the baroque style in 1681-1729. Here is now
preserved the sword which Ignatius Loyola laid on the altar of the
Madonna of Montserrat (p. 224).
The Bambla ends at the Plaza de Cataluiia (PL G,7,8), a spacious
square, often occupied by shows, panoramas, and the like. To the W.
lies the small Sarrid Station (pp. 194, 211). The plaza is the focus of
the tramway-system (p. 195), and cars run hence to the N. to Gracia
and San Gervasio ; to the E. vi^ the Bondas to San Andres de Palomar
and the park ; to the W. to Sarria and the Montjuich; and to the S.
along the Bambla to the barbour, Barceloneta, and the £. Cemetery.
It is also the starting-point of the steam-tramway to San Gervasio.
From the Plaza de Catalufia the Calle de Belay o and the Bonda
de la Universidad lead to the W. to the large Plaza de la Universidad,
^02 Bouteie. BARCELONA. Bamhla,
on the N.W. side of which stands the TJniverBity (PI. I; F, 7), built
by Elias Bogent in 1863-73. It possesses scientific collections, a
large library (150,000 vols.), a school for architects, engineers, and
designers, and an inconsiderable botanic garden. The University of
Barcelona was founded by Alfonso V. in 1450, but it was trans-
ferred by Philip V. to Cervera (p. 214) in 1717, and not re-opened
here till 1842. Between that date and 1873 it was housed in the
Convento del Carmen. It is attended by about 2500 students.
In the broad Rambla db Cataluna, which runs to the N.W.
from the plaza of that name, stands, to the right (No. 24), the
*MnBeo EBtmch (PL II ; G, 7) , belonging to Senor Jose Estruch
and opened to the public in 1888. It consists of an extensive col-
lection of weapons, flags, and other objects, tastefully arranged in a
fine hall lighted from above. It is open 10-12 and 2-4 (fee 72"! P« ;
catalogue 1 p.).
The most valuable objects are arranged on the rear-wall of the room.
Among these are Phoenician, Carthaginian, and Roman weapons (No. 1836.
Phoenician sword found in the province of Teruel) •, two Rrankiah swords
rSkramasax; Nos. 1273, 1325); two swords of the 9th cent. (Nos. 1260,
1264); a sword of the 12th cent. (No. 572); two Moorish helmets of the
14th and 16th cent. (Nos. 485, 508) ; Gatalonian weapons ; numerous Toledo
blades of the 16-17th cent. ; a lansquenet^s banner; flags from the Thirty
Years' War ; suits of armour, fire-arms, etc.
A little above the museum, at the point where the Rambla inter-
sects the Calle de las Cortes, is a statue of the Catalan political econ-
omist Ouell (1800-1872), with various allegorical figures, executed
by Martorell and Nobas and erected in 1888. At the intersection of
the Calle de Valencia (PI. I ; G, 6) is a monument by Vilaseca (also
erected in 1888), commemorating Jose Anselmo Clave (1824-74),
a Catalan poet and musician, and founder of the well-known Coros
de Clave (male choral societies).
On the N.W. the Plaza de Catalufia is bounded by the ^Faseo
de Oracia (PI. G, 8-5), a fine boulevard, 8/4 M. long and 200 ft.
wide. It is shaded by four rows of plane-trees and is much fre-
quented in the evening.
From the E. angle of the Plaza de Catalufia the narrow Plaza de
Santa Ana leads towards the cathedral. To the left (S.) of it is the
Romanesque church of Santa Ana (PL G, 8), built by Guillermo II.,
Patriarch of Jerusalem, in 1146 and said to have been modelled on
the church of the Holy Sepulchre. It was originally a cruciform
structure, with four rectangular arms of equal size and roofed with
barrel- vaulting. The W. arm was, however, subsequently extended
by the addition of two Gothic bays with quadripartite vaulting. To
the left of the entrance is the tomb of Miguel Boera, an eminent
military commander under Ferdinand the Catholic and Charles V. —
On the W. the church is adjoined by Gothic Cloisters of the 14th
cent., standing askew to it and rising in two stories. The S.E. walk
of these opens on the chapter-house.
o
ft.
C CL I I
I.CapiacL de Sarv Oemente'
^ 1, » de S.Sa^rmundo de Ber^u/br't/
3. '/ de San^ M^uel Jjrdn^fel/
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5. " de Santo Oisto de ZepaiUo
6. '/ de los Santas Ihocentes
LPaJbeUoTv de San Jorge
§.Severa
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^wSpi0^fc5S««r!iieipnr
Cathedral. BARCELONA. 16. Route, 203
b. The Cathedral and its Keighbonrhood (Plata del Bey, Plaia
de la Coxistituoi6n).
The ^Cathedral (PI. G, 9; comp. the accompanying plan),
named originally Santa Cruz and afterwards also Santa Eulaliay in
honour of the tutelar of the city, is one of the noblest creations
of Spanish Gothic. It stands upon the highest point of ancient Bar-
celona, on a site originally occupied by a Roman temple and later
by a Moorish mosque. The earliest Christian edifice here was con-
secrated in 1058, but the only parts of it remaining are the portals
leading from the cloisters (p. 206) to the S.W. transept and the
chapel of Santa Lucia. The building of the present church was
begun in May, 1298. The first architect of importance engaged in
the work seems to have been Jaime Fdbrt of Palma, in the is-
land of Mallorca, who was summoned to the office of superintend-
ent in 1318. In 1339 the crypt was finished and dedicated to
Santa Eulalia. In 1388 Maeatre Roque succeeded Fabre and erected
the cloisters. He was followed by BartolonU Qual and Andria
Escudefy the latter of whom placed the keystone of the vaulting
in position on Sept. 26th, 1448. The scale of the building Ms by
no means great, yet the arrangement of the various parts is so
good, the skill in the admission of light so subtle, and the height
and width of the nave so noble, that an impression is always con-
veyed to the mind that its size is far greater than it really is' (Street).
The nave, which is partly blocked up by the coro, has a small tri-
forlum over its main arches ; the aisles are flanked by rows of ohapels ;
the transepts project but slightly beyond the main walls; the E. end
presents the French arrangement of a single apse surrounded by an
ambulatory and radiating chapels. The church is so closely hemmed
in by the adjoining buildings, that the only part of the exterior
freely exposed to view is the modem N.W. facade (finished in 1890),
in the Plaza de la Gated ral. This is approached by a wide flight of
steps. The octagonal Cimborio, above the first bay of the nave, was
left unfinished, but the work of completing it was undertaken in
1895. The two transeptal towers, 170 ft. high, were built in the
middle ages.
To the right and left of the Puerta de San Ivoy or N.E. doorway,
in the Calle de los Condes de Barcelona, are two inscriptions relating
to the building of the church (1298 and 1329). Above the door is a
relief of the fight between Vilardell and the Dragon. (According to
the legend, YUardell was a knight who slew a monstrous dragon let
loose upon the Christians by the Moors. Thereupon he held his
sword aloft, boasting of the victory, but was instantly killed by some
drops of the poisonous dragon's blood trickling down upon him from
the blade, 'Dios castigaudo su vana gloria'.)
The *Intebioe, which is 275 ft. long and 122 ft. wide, is very
dark, but makes an impression of great dignity and solemnity, es-
pecially by the dimensions of the nave (82 ft. high and 42 ft. wide).
204 Route 16. BARCELONA. Cathedrca.
The windows, wliicli are unusually small, are filled with maff^lfleent
Stained Olaas of the 15th cent., and the llght-efFects at sunset are
very gorgeous. Lofty clustered columns (20 in all) separate the
nave from the aisles and the capilla mayor from the ambulatory. —
On entering by the Puerta Mayor, or N. W. portal, we find ourselves
below the octagonal lantern. To the right opens the large Capilla
DEL Santisimo Saobambnto or DB San Olboario (also entered
from the cloisters), which is roofed with fine star -vaulting and
contains the Alabaster Monument of Bishop Olegarius (d. 1136),
erected in the 17th century. The paintings are by Ant. Viladomat
(p. 201). — The 26 Smaller Chapels date chiefly from the 16-
17th cent., and their altars and pictures are usually worthless. The
Capilla de San Clemente (PI. 1), to the left of the Chapel of St. Ole-
garius , contains the tasteful Gothic Tomb of Sancha XimSnez de
Cabrera. In the Capilla de San Raymundo de Penyafort (PI. 2),
in the middle of the right aisle, is a Sarcophagus containing the
remains of St. Raymond, brought from the ruined convent of Santa
Catalina. In the ambulatory is the Capilla de San Miguel Arcangel
(PI. 3) , containing the superb Monument of Bishop Berenguer de
Palou (d. 1240). The Capilla de Nuestra Sefiora del Patrocinio
(PI. 4), adjoining the last, contains the Tomh of Bishop Poncio de
QudlJba (d. 1334). — Immediately behind the capilla mayor is the
Capilla de Santo Cristo de Lepanto (Pi. 5), containing the so-called
Christ of Lepanto, which Don John of Austria is said to have carried
in his flag-ship at the famous battle of Oct. 6th, 1671. The unusual
attitude of the Saviour has given rise to the belief that the sacred
image bent its head to escape a Turkish bullet. — The Capilla de
los Inocentes (PI. 6), the last on the N. side of the ambulatory, is
adorned by the handsome Gothic Monumerd of Bishop Ramon de
Fscaler, dating from the end of the 15th century.
Nave. The Trascoro, or N.W. end of the core, is adorned with
four admirable * Reliefs by BartolomS Ordonez (?) and Pedro Vilar
of Saragossa (1564), representing scenes from the life of St. E^lalia.
The silleria is finely carved; the lower row is by Matias Bonafe
(1457), the upper row and the canopies are "by Michael Loker (Loquer;
1483), perhaps a German sculptor. The coats-of-arms above the
stalls recall the chapter of the Order of the Golden Fleece (Toison
de Oro), held here by Charles V. on March 6th, 1519. This brilliant
gathering was attended by King Christian of Denmark, King Sigis-
mund of Poland, the Prince of Orange, the Duke of Alba, and nu-
merous other grandees of Spain and nobles of Flanders. The Epis-
copal Throne and the Pulpit^ with its fine staircase (N.E. side),
should also be examined.
The Transept contains some beautiful aranas or chandeliers.
Below the organ, in the N.E. arm, is a colossal Saracen's head, such
as are common in Catalonian churches.
The Capilla Mayor contains a late-Gothic retablo of the 15th
Cathedral. BARCELONA. 16. Rouit, 205
cent., below which is a Bateophogru with the remains of St. Se-
verus. — A flight of 26 steps descends hence to the Obtpt (Iglesia
Soitrranea), built by Jaime Fabrc (p. 203) and containing the Tonib
of 8e, EulaUaj whose body was transferred from the church of Santa
Maria del Mar (p. 208) to this resting-place in 1339. The beautiful
alabaster shrine of 13^7 is adorned with reliefs from the life of the
saint and is supported by ancient Corinthian columns.
Tae^AscsNT op thb S.W. Towsb of the transept (adm., on week-days only,
from the interior of the church ^ 210 8tep8 ; fatrriptan, 1 p.) is recommended
for the excellent view it affor.lfl of tlie flat roofs of th* cathedrul, the cloisters,
and the N.E. tower, as well as for the noble pro'^pect over the plain of
Barcelona, with the Tibidabo on the N. and the Montjuich on the 8.
On the S.W. the cathedral is adjoined by magnificent Gothic
*Cix>i8TSB8 (CUautroJj which may be entered either from the interior
of the church by the Puerta de San Severo , from the Calle de la
Piedad; to the S., by the Puerta de la Piedad, from the Calle de
Obispo (S.W.) by the Puerta de Santa Eulalia, or from the Capilla
de Santa Luda in the W. comer. The building of the cloisters was
begun by Maeatre Roque (p. 203) and was finished in 1448. Along
the N.E. walk is a row of chapels , placed back to back with the
chapels of the S.W. aisle of the church, the windows in the com-
mon wall serring for both. The inner court of the cloisters consists
of a picturesque but untidy garden, with palms, araucarias, orange
trees, buge geraniums, and medlars. To the S.E. lies the Fuente de
las Ocatf a small goose-pond. Adjacent is the PabeU6n de San Jorge
(PI. 7), containing an equestrian statuette of St. George, which serves
as a fountain. The middle doors in the N.W. walk, adjoining the
Cbapel of Santa Luciaj lead to the Secretaria del Capitulo and the
Sola Capitular. The latter contains the Yirgen de la Piedad, a fine
painting by Bartolomi Bermejo of Cordova (1490).
The walls of the cloisters are adorned with faded frescoes and arc
lined by a number ol interesting tombstones, chiefly of the 12-16th centuries.
By the N.W. wall are those of Antonio TaUtmder^ surnamcd Mouin Borrd
(d. 1433), the court- fool of Aifonto V. of Aragon, and Francisco Despld
(d. 1453), a chorifter of the cathedral. In the S.W. walk, in the 2nd
cbapel to the left of the Puerta de Santa Eulalia (see above), are two plain
Sarcophagi J containing the remains of Al/ongo JJJ. of Aragon (d. 1291), the In-
/emUs Don Jaime and Don J-'adrique^ und Queens Constance^ Maria, and Sibila.
In theyicinity of the cathedral are a few interesting old buildings.
To the N.W., in the Plaza de la Catedral, is the Canonja (canonry),
dating from the 16th cent. ; on the back of the building, in the Calle
de la Tapineiia, is the inscription ^Almoyna (* House of the Al-
moner'). At No. 21 Calle Corribia is the Casa Gremial de loa Zapa-
t«ro« (Shoemakers^ Guildhouse), a Renaissance building of 1545. To
the W., at the comer of the CaUe del Obispo, stands the Palacio
Efiscopai. (pi. G, 9), which seems to have occupied this site since
926, though rebuilt in 1606 and again in the 18th century. It in-
corporates some Romanesque remains. — In the court of No. 18 of
the Calle de Paradise which leads from the back of the cathedral to
206 BovAtie, BARCELONA. Ca9adtlaDif%daci6n,
the Plaza de la Con8titiici6n (see below), are immured three Corinth-
ian columns, about 60 ft. in height. These are evidently the re-
mains of the portico of a Roman temple, which tradition describes
as dedicated to Hercules, the mythical founder of Barcelona. A
large stone in the pavement of this narrow street marks the highest
point of old Barcelona (p. 197).
From the E. angle of the cathedral the short Bajada de Santa
Clara descends to the small and picturesque Plaza dbl Rbt (PI. II;
G, 9), formerly the central part of the old palace of the Counts of
Barcelona and Kings of Aragon. On the W. this plaza is bounded
by the Archive General de la Corona de Aragon, a Gothic structure
erected by Antonio Carhonell for Charles V. It encloses a quadrangular
court, and the staircase is roofed in by a beautifully carved wooden
cupola (*media naranja'). The Abchiyes (open 9-1) are on the first
floor and rival those of Simancas in completeness and interest (about
four million documents; MSS. from the convents of Ripoll, San
Cucufate, etc.). — Opposite, on the N.E. side of the square (No. 16),
is the Capilla Real de 8anfa Aguida^ formerly the chapel of the royal
palace and now (since 1879) containing the Pbovincial Museum.
It is an early-Gothic structure of the 13th cent., with a lofty nave
and a groined apse, and differs materially in style from the other
churches of Barcelona. The museum consists of a not very important
collection of Roman and mediasval antiquities, architectural frag-
ments, sculptures, mosaics, coins, and medals. It is open daily,
9-1 ; the conseije (Plaza del Rey 14) is generally to be found in the
museum (fee V2-I P- ? catalogue 3 p.).
In the GouBT are a column from the above-mentioned house in the
Calle de Paradis, some gargoyles, and other objects. — Intbbiob. In the
middle : 998, 999. Two iron cannon found in the harbour of Barcelona ;
717, 718. Roman columns of granite ; 716. Marble statue of a Roman matron -,
1152. Large Roman mosaic from Palau, By the left wall: 1042-1052.
Roman portraits in relief^ 863, Last Judgment, an altar-piece of the 16ih
cent. ; 8o9, 870. Roman sarcophagi, with reliefs of the Rape of Proserpine
and of a lion-hunt 5 832. Gilded wooden reliquary from San Cngat del
Vall^s, with reliefs of scenes from the legend of St. Candidus (13th cent.).
In the apse: 804-813. Ten mutilated marble figures of Apostles (16th cent.),
from the church of San Miguel at Barcelona, pulled down in 1874; 848,
849. Altar-piece of the Chapel of St. Agueda (15th cent.).
The Calle del Obispo, skirting the S.W. side of the cathedral
cloisters, leads to the S.E. to the handsome Plaza db la Constitu-
cioN (PI. II, G 9 ; formerly Plaza de San Jaime), with the Casa de
la Diputaci6n to the N.W. and the Casa Consistorial to the S.E.
The *Ca8a de la Diputaci6n (PI. II ; G, 9), a handsome building
of the 15th cent., restored by Pedro Blay, partly in the Renaissance
style, in 1698, contains the chambers of the Diputaci6n Provincial,
the Audiencia, and the Chapel of St. Oeorge. The fine Gothic facade
towards the Calle del Obispo is 16th cent. work. This is surmounted
by a handsome balustrade, with numerous curious gargoyles, below
which is a small frieze with 27 heads. Over what used to be the
main entrance of the building is a relief of St. George and the Drag-
Ca$a Cofuistorial. BARCELONA. 16, Route. 207
oil. The modernized forc-conrt of the Diput&ci6n is separated by
a fine iron grille from the magnificent patio of the Audiencia (side
entrance from the Calle San Honorato). This latter is surrounded
by buildings of three stories, the second consisting of a cloister-like
arcade. A staircase leads hence to the first floor and to a third court
named the Paiio de loa NaranjoSy which is embellished with orange
trees and numerous Gothic gargoyles.
The Imtkbiok (not always accessible) is Bhown by two conserjes, one
for the Dipataci6n and the other for the Audiencia and Chapel of St.
George (fee to each V«-i PO- — Tii^ main front-building is occupied by
the Casa 4e la Dipataeibii, with the chambers of the provincial deputies.
The Detpiuho de la Presideneia contain* three pictures by Fortuny (d. 228).
The ScUdn Rojo if the meeting-place of the Provincial Ck>ancil. In the
large SalOn de San Jorge are a Judas by Bimon Gomes f the ^Spoliarium* of
Luna Notricio (a fallen gladiator being dragged from the arena to the
Spoltarium^ painted in 1884); General Prim fighting in Korocco, a painting
by 8an»; several pictures of the i6th cent.; and a bronze statue of Dante,
by BtAol. Adjacent is the Baidn de Betionee, or chamber of the deputies ;
it contains an unfinished picture by Fortuny (Battle of Tetuan) and a
portrait of Alfonso XII. by JfarH. — We now proceed by the above-men-
tioned staircase or by the corridor connecting the two part* of the building,
with its Gothic arches and graceful clustered shafts, to the Audiencia,
passing the door of 8t George's Chapel (see below). The Saldn de loe Reyet^
the chief room here, includes portraits of all the Condes of Barcelona,
including the 'Condesa' Queen Isabella II. Farther on are the Sola de loe
PUUoe^ the Saia Civile and the Sola Crltninai, with a fine artesonado ceil>
ing. — We next return to the *Capilla de San Jorge, which if entered by
an elaborately decorated Gothic portal in sandftone. The architecture of
the interior is simple. On the walls hang large piecea of tapestry (tapieee).
The JSaerisip contams miniatures and ecclesiastical decorations, including
a superb embroidered *Altar Frontal of the 15th cent., representing St.
George and the Dragon.
The Casa Coniistorial (PL II; G, 9) dates from 1369-78. The
facade, which has been modernized, is embellished with marble
statues of Jaime el Conquistador and Fivaller, Conseller II. de Bar-
celona. The oblong patio is fine. The handsome Sal&n de Ciento
(reached from the patio by the great staircase) is 90 ft. long, 40 ft.
wide, and 46 ft. high. The adjoining passage has a beautiful wooden
ceiling and contains an admirable specimen of the ^ajimesi' windows
so common in Catalonia and Valencia; it is divided into three lights
by marble shafts only 3 inches in diameter. The other rooms are
uninteresting and seldom accessible. — On the second floor is the
Abchiyo Municipal (open ou week-days, 10-1 and 4-6). This con-
tains a celebrated *Altar Piece by Luis Dalmau, painted for the
chapel of the town-hall in 1446 and representing the Ave town-coun-
cillors being introduced to the Madonna by SS. Eulalia and Andrew;
a 17th cent, plan of Barcelona ; a plan of the Ensanche (p. 197) by
Ildefons Cerd^; the Rubrica de Bruniquer (1330), the Llibre Vert
(green), the Llibre Vermeil (red), with a list of the city's priv-
ileges, and other interesting MSS. relating to the history of Barcelona.
In the Plaza de San Justo, a few paces to the S.E., is the Gothic
church of Santos Justo y Pastor (PI. G, 9), one of the earliest Christian
churches in Barcelona, built in 1300. It consists of an aisleless nave.
208 RouU 16, BARCELONA. Plaza del Palacio,
45 ft. wide , with chapels between the buttresses. The facade is
flanked with two polygonal towers.
The Calle de Jaime Primeio, beginning at the E. angle of the
Plaza de la Constituci6n, leads to the Plata de Angel (PI. II ; G, 9),
beyond which it is continued, as the Calle de la Ptineesa, to the park
(p. 209). -— From the Plaza de Angel the CaUe Plateria, with the
shops of the goldsmiths and silversmiths, runs to theE. to the church
of 8. Maria del Mar (see below).
c. Plaza del Palacio. The Park and Korth-Eastern Quarters
of the City.
From the N. end of the Paseo de Col6n (p, 199) the short Paseo
de Isabel Segunda leads to the —
Plaza db Palaoio (PI. H, 9, 10), the central point of the mar-
itime activity of Barcelona. It is adjoined by the Lonja (see below),
the Aduana (custom-house), the Depodto Comercialj or bonded ware-
house for foreign goods, and the ot'flces of steamboat-companies and
merchants. A charming view is obtained of the coffln-shaped Mont-
juich through the vista of the plane-trees in the Paseo de Col<5n. To
the left lie Barceloneta (p. 210) and the harbour. In the middle of
the plaza stands a handsome Marble Foimtain, designed by Molina
and erected in 1856. Below are groups of playing children, hippo-
potami, etc. ; in the middle are the four provinces of Catalonia ; at
the top is the winged Genius of Barcelona. The inscription com-
memorates B. de Quir6s, Marques de Campo Sangrado, formerly
Captain-General of Catalonia, under whom the water of the Befi6s
was brought from Moncada (p. 192) to Barcelona.
The Casa Lonja (PI. II j G, H, 9), or Exchange (business-hours
1-4), formerly named Casa dels Camhis, was built by Peter IV. of
Aragon in 1382 and entirely modernized in 1772. Over the project-
ing lower story rises a facade with a gable-roof. The only remaining
part of the original building is the Gothic Sctla de Contrataciones, a
hall 100 ft. long and 75 ft. wide, divided into nave and aisles by
four columns. The other rooms contain a small collection of pictures,
including scenes from the life of St. Francis by Viladomat (p. 201) ;
also statues of an Aragonese warrior and Laocoon, by Campeny
(d. 1855), and two gladiators by Bovey.
The PasSo de la Aduana (PI. II; H, 9) leads to the N. from the
Plaza de Palacio to the park fsee p. 209).
A little to the N.W. stands the Gothic church of *8anta Maria
del Mar (PI. H; H, 9), erected in 1328-83 on the site of a chapel
of St. Eulalia. The ground-plan shows a nave and aisles, flanked
on each side by chapels and adjoined, without the intervention of a
transept, by a heptagonal apse with ambulatory and radiating chapels.
The beautiful favade, with its large portal and rose- window in the
late-Gothic style, is flanked by two slender octagoual towers. The
Park. BARCELONA. 16. RouU, 209
two bioiize figures of porters, &t the doorway, oommemorate the anre-
munerated service given by the poorer classes in building the church.
The imposing Interior has been somewhat marred by modernization
in the 18th centary. The proportions of the Nave are even bolder than
those of the cathedral, its width being about the same (42 ft.)« while Its
height is 112 ft. The aisles are narrow. The chapels, of which there are
three to each bay, are enclosed between the buttresses. — Behind the high
altar are five scenes from the Passion by Viladomat (p. 201), and there are
two more in the Cemitta d» Iom Comdore* Reaitt de CambioB. The statue of
St. Alejo, at the W. end of the eoro, is by A. PMjol de Vik^imca (1643).
GLOn June 7th, 1886, just as the Corpus Chris ti procession was enter-
ing this church, a bomb was thrown into the crowd of onlookers by an
anarchist) 12 people were killed on the spot and about 60 others injured.
Beyond this church runs the Calle Moncada, with the old Caaa
Dalmoies (^No. 20) and remains of other private houses in the Gothic
style. To the N.E. of the church lie the Plaza del Borne and the
Mereado del Borne (Pi. H, 9), where an interesting fish and vege-
table market is held in the morning. Farther to the N.E. is the
Pas^o de la Industria, skirting the S.E. side of the park.
The *Parque y Jardinei de la Ciudadela (PL H, I, 9, 10) oc-
cupies the site of the citadel buUt by Philip V. in 1714, which was
rased in 1868. It covers an area of about 75 acres, and contains
wide avenues of magnolias and other trees, parterres of flowers,
numerous rare plants, and beautiful sheets of water. At the main
(S.W.) entrance, opposite the Pas^o de la Aduana (p. 208), rises a
bronze Equestrian Statue of General Prim, by Puigjaner. From this
point the Pas(^o de los Tilos leads to the N.W. to another of the
principal entrances, adjoining the Sal6n de San Juan. To the left
of this pas^o lie a Palm House (Vmbrdculo), the Museo Martorell
(natural history collections), the Invemdculo (conservatory), and the
Museo de la Historian containing an unimportant collection of ar-
chaeological objects. The Pastfo de los Alamos, on the N.W. side of
the park, leads past the monument of Aribau^ a Catalan poet, by
Vilaseca and Fui4 (1884), to the N.E. Pastfo de los Olmos. The
latter is adjoined by a small Zoological Garden^ beyond which is the
Depdsito for watering the gardens. — In the angle formed by the
Passes de los Alamos and de los Olmos is the Ckucada del Parque.
a large and fantastic grotto, with a tower, groups of statuary, and so
on. Opposite, on the bank of the central pond, is the Cafi del Parque.
— Farther to the S.E. are three buildings dating from the time of
Philip V. : the Palacio Real ; the Pabelldn del Oohemador de la Plaza,
which has been re-christened Pabelldn de la Reina Regente since the
international exhibition of 1888; and the former Church of the citadel,
now transformed into a Pante6n de Catalans Iluslres. — At the S.E.
end of the park is the*Jlfu«eo de Reproduccionesy a relic of the exhib-
ition, containing plaster-casts. A bridge leads hence over the railway
to the former 8ecci6n Maritima of the exhibition and to the sea.
In the Sal6n de San Juan, adjoining the above-mentioned entrance
to the park, stands the new Palacio de Bellas Artes (PI. 11 ; H, 9)
BarOxkbb's Spain. 14
210 R<nUe 16, BARCELONA. Mon^uieh,
in which the Museo Municipal de Bellas Artea is now in process of
fonnation. Exhihitions of paintings and scnlptures are held here
every few years. To the right are the Palaeio de Ciendas (PI. I, 9}
and the Palaeio de Agricultura (PI. I, 9), both built for the exhi-
bition of 1888, and now being pulled down. — To the N.W. of the
Pal. de Oiencias rises the new Palaeio de Justicia (PI. I, 8), to which
the Audiencia (p. 206) is to be transferred. — The Sal6n de San
Juan ends on the N.W. at the Arco de Triunfo (PI. II ; H, 8), erected
in 1888 by Vilaseca as the entrance of the exhibition and adorned
with reliefs.
In the N. angle of the old city, near the Sal6n de San Juan, lies the
old church of San Pedro de Ua Pnellaa (PI. II; H, 8), founded in 946 bjr
Count Suniario and formerly attached to a Benedictine nunnery. Its orig-
inal design was similar to that of San Pablo del Campo (p. 201), but the
building has been frequently altered, especially in consequence of the
ravages it suffered during the contests of 1714.
To the S. of the park, on the other side of the railway, is the
Pas]6o db San Carlos, containing the Bull Ring (PI. H, 10). Beyond
this, on the peninsula to the E. of the harbour, lies the suburb of
Barceloneta (PI. I ; H, 10, 11), which was established by the Marques
de la Mina to provide accommodation for the occupants of the 1200
houses torn down to make room for the citadel (p. 209). At present
Barceloneta contains about 12,000 inhab., most of whom are con-
nected in some way with the sea. In the same quarter are two bar-
racks, the church of San Miguel del Puerto, an iron foundry, and a
ship-building yard. The adjacent part of the harbour is filled with
fishing-boats. The S.E. side of Barceloneta, with the baths mentioned
at p. 196, is exposed to the full sweep of the Mediterranean.
The dusty Pas^o del Gementebio (PI. I ; I, K, L, 10), prolong-
ing the Pas^o de San Carlos towards the E., leads past a series of
large docks (r.) to the suburb of Pueblo Nuevo and the E. cemetery.
The Cementerio del Este (PI. I, L 10; tramway, see p. 195) is
divided by high walls into 16 sections. These walls contain oblong
niches, arranged in rows one above another and having their narrow
ends turned to the walks between. The coffins of the dead are thrust
into the niches, like bottles in the pigeon-holes of a wine-cellar,
and the opening is then closed. Niches which have not been pur-
chased outright remain the property of the city, and the remains of
the dead are removed after four years to the Osdrio Comun. This
form of burial has been practised in Spain for many centuries. —
At the E. end stands a handsome Chapel, surrounded by cypresses
and by the graves of the richer Inhabitants, many with fine mon-
uments. Behind the chapel lies the cemetery of the poor.
d. The Montjnicli.
The Montjuich (750 ft.) is an isolated ridge or crest, which rises
gradually towards the E. out of the plain of the Llobregat (p. 197)
and presents a precipitous front towards the sea. Its name is probably
SarriA. BARCELONA. 16. Route. 2\\
due to the fact ih&t it was once partly inhabited by the Jews, whose
cemetery lay at its base. Magnificent palms grow at the foot of the
hill, and its fields are separated by hedges of aloes. An easy road
leads from the S. part of the city to (20 min.) the top, passing the
Cafi-Bestawrani Mvramar (PI. I; E, 10). The * View it affords is
very extensive. The Montseny is particularly prominent, and some
pe«jLs of the Pyrenees are also visible, but the Montserrat is not seen.
The E. end of the Montjuich is occupied by the Castillo de Montjuich,
a strong fortress, with large magazines and accommodation for
10,000 men. Visitors are admitted on the afternoon of Maundy
Thorsday, on the morning of Good Friday, and on Dec. 8th ; on
other days a special order is required. The view, however, is almost
as good outside the walls. The Montjuich was captured by Lord Peter-
borough in 1705 by a brilliant coup de mcun.
On tbe S.W. slope of the Montjuich lies the aftractive Cemmtirio del
OtsU (PI. I-, A, 10).
e. The North- Western Suburbs.
Visitors who wish to see the extent of Barcelona's expansion
should go by steam-tramway (see p. 195) via Gracia to the subnrb
of San Gervasio de Casollas (to the 'Plaza de Bonanova' 30 or ^5 c).
Here lies the Iglesia de la Bonanova (PL I; F, 1), which is worth a
visit for the huge number of votive offerings kept in two of its chapels
(entr. to the left of the high-altar). A walk of about 1/4 hr. towards
the W. brings us, passing several pleasant country-houses and the
restaurant Parque de la Montana, to —
Sarri^ another important suburb of Barcelona, connected with
the Plaza de Oataluna by the railway mentioned at p. 201 (about 45
trains daily ; fares 60, 37, 25 c).
OMVIBU8B8, starting on the arrival of the trains, ply from the railway
station of Sarrii to the W. to (IV2 M.) the Real Monatterio de Fedralbes, a
Franciscan nunnery (now suppressed), founded in 1327 and possessing a
good Gothic church. Other omnibuses run to theN. to the high-lying village
of Valividrera (Hdtel de Buenos Aires; Hot. Panorama), whence the
summit of the Tibidftbo (1745 ft. ; p. 197) may be easily reached. At the
top is a view-temple, erected in 1888. — Another interesting expedition
may be made from Sarrii to the prominently situated Ermiia de San Pedro
Mdrtir (views).
17. Prom Barcelona to Lirida (Saragossa^ Madrid),
114 M. Railway in 5V2-6Y4 hrs. (fares 21 p. 5, 15 p. 80, 11 p. 60 c).
There are two through-trains daily (one only to Saragossa), and there are
two (in the height of summer five) local trains between Barcelona and
Manresa. — Deipacho Central at Barcelona, see p. 194^ information may be
obtained here as to the connection of the diligences. The trains start from
the Eafacidn del Norte (p. 194). — There are railway-restaurants at Barce-
lona^ M(mre$a^ and LiHda.
This journey offers many attractions, especially near Montserrat. The
beat views are generally to the left, but near Manresa to the right.
Barcelona^ see p. 194. — As far as (7 M.) Moncada (". 102)
212 Route 1 7 . S AB ADELL . From Barcelona
the line runs parallel with that to Gerona. It crosses the Eitra de
San Cugat and the beaatiful plain of Sardauola.
9^2 ^* Sardanola, the station for the village of that name and
for BipolUtf the centre of a hemp-growing district. The Montserrat,
with the deep Indentation of the Valle Malo (p. ^19), becomes visibie,
and also the Montseny (p. 190). To the right lies the church of
San Pedro de Rhueeh. Numerous factories are passed.
1472 M. Sabadell, an industrial town with 19,200 inhab., fully
half of whom are employed in its 80 cloth-factories and 20 cotton
mills. The annual value of its manufactures is about 13,000,000 p.
(520,000^.). — To the left, as we proceed, lies the village of Creu
Alia; to the right is the Montana de San LorenxOy with its numerous
caverns. Farther on, to the left, is the Valle del Paraiao, with the
ruined castle of Egara and the village of San Pedro de Tarrcua.
20 V2 M. Tarrasa, with 12,500 inhab. and several cloth- factories.
Between the station and the town are the Romanesque churches of
San Pedro and SanMiguel^ and a BapUitery with some Roman columns.
Farther on the railway traverses a series of irregular hills and
valleys, which have necessitated the construction of numerous costly
cuttings, tunnels, and bridges. Just beyond Tarrasa we cross the
Qaya and the Uort by viaducts 70-80 ft. in height. — From (25 V2M.)
Olesa, at the foot of the Montana de Caaa Llimona, a diligence
runs in the season (July 15th-Sept. 15th) to (3 M.) the warm sul-
phur-baths (86° Fahr.) of La Puda, on the right bank of the Llobregat.
The train crosses the valley of the BuxadeU by a fine viaduct of
18 arches (310yds. long) and then penetrates the spurs of the moun-
tains to the ri^ht by a series of tunnels and cuttings. To the left,
high above the deep valley of the Llobregat, rises the grand mass
of the ♦Montserrat, the monastery on which is distinctly visible.
31 Y2 M. MonlBtrol (630 ft.), the starting-point of the mountain
railway to the top of the Montserrat (see p. 219). From the railway
we can make out the Cueva de la Virgen (p. 226) and the chapels of
San Miguel (p. 225) and Santa Cecilia (p. 224); the only visible
part of the monastery itself is the chapel of San Acisclo.
We traverse more tunnels and cuttings. 351/2 M. San Vicente
de Castellet. The train crosses the Llobregat and ascends along its
tributary the Cardoner (p, 213). Fine retrospect of the Montserrjit,
especially of the highest peak of San Jer6nimo (p. 226).
4OV2 M. Mimreia (672 ft. ; Fonda de Santo Domingo, in the
plaza of that name; Bail. Restaurant^ the Roman Munorisa, the
capital of the Jaeetani^ is an ancient and interesting town with
20,600 inhab. , finely situated on the left bank of the Cardoner. The
river is spanned by a modem iron bridge and by a narrow and
high-backed stone bridge of the Roman period.
From the station we cross the stone bridge and then ascend to
the right to the high-lying Gothic *colegiata* of —
to Unda. MANRKSA. 17. RouU. 2\^
Santa Maria db la Sbo, beguTi on the site of an earlier struc-
ture in 1328 and finished nearly a century later. Its plan resembles
that of the Barcelona churches, consisting of nave and aisles with
choir and ambulatory, but no transepts. Over the left aisle rises a
fine tower, completed in 1672-90. The W. facade is modern.
The laTKXioB, borne by 16 octagonal pierf , if remarkable for the
width of the nave (58 ft.), which ia greater than that of any other aisled
church on the Spanish mainland. The huge buttreeaes, formed partly
without and partly within the church, enclose 8 jnare side-chapelf off the
aijles and ambulatory. The flneat of the ftained-glass windows is the
rose-window at the W. end, representing the Virgin in a glory. The Coro,
in the middle of the nave, is surrounded by a stone screen of the 16th
cent., on the ontside of which are Gothic niches containing painted figures
of apostles and aiints. The stalls ahow Benaisaance forma The third and
fourth piers on the left, being thoae that aupport the tower, are more
massive than the reat. Below the organ, to the 8., ia the a ivage-looking
head of a Voor (comp. p. 304); adjacent, on a gold ground, are acenes
from the lifis of the Virion. The Bigh Altar is adorned with wood-carv-
ings and richly gilt^ the aix octagonal colnmna round it were doubtleaa
intended for hanging np tapestries and curtaina. In the ambulatory ia a
wheel of bella in ita old case. The steps in front of the altar descend to
tiike Crvp^' — The SaeriMty contains an embroidered and painted altar
frontal, 10 ft. long, a charming piece of Florentine work of the I6tb century.
On the N. the Colegiata is adjoined by modern cloisters, entered
by a Romanesque gate beside the N. side-portal of the church. —
The acacia-shaded plaza to the S. and E. of the church affords fine
views of the Car.loner, the Montserrat, and the vineyarils to the S.
(Among the last, Vj^ M. from the station, rises the Torre de Santa
Catalina, an excellent point of view.)
Proceeding to the £. from the Colegiata, we cross the Torrento
de San Jgndtio and reach (3 min.) the Cueya Santa, or grotto of
St. Ignatius, above which has been built the church of San Ignazio^
with its pleasing S. facade. Loyola (p. 13), after his sojourn on
the Montserrat (p. 224), spent some months in penitential exercises
in the Dominican convent of Manresa, and is said to have written
his 'Exercitia Spiritualia' in this cavern. Good view of the Colegiata.
We now return to the Colegiata and proceed to the N. to the
Plaza Mayor, with the Igleda del Carmen, dating from about the
same period as the Colegiata. We then go to the W. to the plaza
and church of Santo Domingo (V*^- from the Cueva). In the in-
terior of this church, to the right and left of the capilla mayor, are
the busts of two popes (?). Immediately to the right of the entrance
is the Capilla de la Virgen del Rosario.
From Hanresa to Cardona, 24 H., diligence in 5 bra., once daily in
winter, twice in summer (office at Manresa in the Plaza de Santo Domingo).
The road follows the courae of the Cardaner^ descending from the Sierra
del Cadi, and akirts the base of the Costa de la Vela. The motintaina on
the other side of the atream belong to the Sierra de Prades. A little more
than halfway we pass (13 H.) the village of Suria.
Oardaaa (Posada^ fair), an old town with 2400 inhah., in a lofty site
almoat encircled by t:ieCardoner and dominated on the N.E. by a fortified
hill rising 1470 ft, above the level of the aea. The pariah-church dates
from the 14th cent., and the walls and towers of the fortiflcationfl are
aufliciently picturesque. The main object of interest, however, ia the
214 Route 17. BELLPUIG. From Barcelona
*MontaSa db Sal, a veritable mountain of salt, 266 ft. bigh and 3 M. in
circumference, which rif es about >/« K. to the 8. of the town, between the
river and the castle, and now belongs to the Duke of Medinaceli. This
curious phenomenon is mentioned by Strabo (in. 219). The rock-salt is
perfectly pure, and the hill is worked like a mine. Visitors require a
permit from the manager. The columns of- salt sparkle brillianlly when
the sun shines on them. Some of the shafts are very deep, such as the
Furad Mico ('squirrers hole**), which is said to be a mile long. Objects of
various kinds made of the salt are offered for sale, some of a strangely-
coloured variety known as *arlequino\ — Near the salt-hill the Cardoner
is very briny, especially after rain, and its waters retain a brackish taste
for a distance of about 10 M.
From Cardona to SoUona and Urgel^ see p. 217.
Leaving Manresa, the train ascends the valley of the Eajadell. ^-
48 M. Rajadellj prettily situated to the left. Near at hand are the
villages of Monistrol de Rajadellj Aguilar, and CasteUar, We ascend
steeply along the Sierra de Calaf, threading six tunnels. 62 M. C<Uaf,
— 691/2 M. San Quim (2420 ft.), the first place in the province of
L€rida and the highest point of the railway, lies on the watershed
between the Llobregat and the Segre (p. .183), which flows to the
S.W. to the Ebro. A diligence runs hence to Igualada. The Mont-
serrat now disappears from the view.
The line now descends. To the right are the ruined Moorish
castle of Santa Fe and the high-lying walled village of Monfalco
Murallat, Farther on is the convent of San Ramdn, Distant view
of the Pyrenees.
78 M. Cerveraj a town of 3900 inhab., on a small stream of the
same name, contains the deserted buildings of a university, which
Philip V. established here in 1717 as a reward for the town's loyalty
(comp. p. 202). — The train follows the Cervera, which traverses
the well-irrigated Llano de Urgel and joins the Segre at L^rida. To
the left we see Qranena and (farther on) Granenina. — From (87 M.)
Tdrrega a diligence runs to the N. to Agramunt and (26 M.) Artesa
de Segre (p. 217). — To the N. we see the village of Anglesola. To
the S. lies VerdU, visited for its mule-fair, beginning on April 26th
and lasting a week. At Vilagrasa we cross the Canal de TJrgel,
94 M. Bellpuig {j^osada de laEstaddn, quite unpretending,
luncheon 3 p.), a small place commanded by the old Castle of the
Anglesolas. From the station the road leads to the S. to (i/2 M.) the
Chubch of Bellpuig, the key of which is kept by Pedro Vidal, in
an adjoining house. This contains the magnificent * Monument of
Don Ramon de Cardona, Viceroy of Naples (d. 1522), erected by
his widow Isabella in the convent-church (p. 215) and transferred
to its present position in 1824. It is a masterpiece of the Nea-
politan sculptor Giovanni da Nola, executed in the usual style of
the Italian tombs of the Renaissance. The effigy of the deceased
lies on a sarcophagus in a deep recess; and the details of the orna-
mentation include mythological figures, genii, birds, fruit, and
arabesques, as well as a relief of a victory over the Moors. — About
Vg M. to the S. lies the suppressed Fhanciscan Convent, founded
toUrida. LPmWX. 17. Route. 215
by the Gonnts of Urgcl (l^th cent. ?), with a Gothic church of the
15th century. The key is kept by the 'Hoitelano' Casas, near the
above-mentioned parish-church.
The Sacbmtt of the coavent-chiirch containf a late-Oothlc ciboriam. —
An ingenious spiral staircase aacends to the * Cloistebs, which are in three
Ftoriea. The lowermost has four Gothic arches on each side, the tracery
of which Is carried up into the galleries above. The arches of the central
gallerjr are borne by fluted columns, with riehly seulptured capitals and
other ornamentation. The uppermost gallery forms a kind of attic, sup-
ported on each side by eleven Doric columns. — The Tkbbacb of the
convent affords a fine view of Bellpuig.
The district traversed by the railway now assumes the bleak
character of the Aragonese steppes. — 99 M. MoUerwa; 105V2 M.
BtU-LLoeh, A few trees again appear in the landscape. Farther on
are pretty gardens, heralding the valley of the Segre and the town
of L^rida, which is seen in the distance. The train crosses the Segre
by an iron girder-bridge, with five openings, each 130 ft. in span
and 33 ft. above the river.
114 M. Lirida (495 ft. ; *F(mda 8ui%a^ pens. 7 p., unpretending j
Fonda de Etpafia; Rail. Restaurant), the Ilerda of the Romans, is
the capital of a province and lies on a hill rising over the Segre.
Pop. 23,600. It is one of the most ancient towns in Spain, and its
Geltiberian origin is indicated by its name (il or hil = castle; ard
or erd = height). Its strategic importance, at the entrance to the
plain of Aragon and near the mouth of the E. Pyrenean valleys and
several passes across the Catalonian coast-range, led to its fortifica-
tion at an early date; and it still ranks as a strong fortress, with its
forts Oardeny (the old town proper), El Pilaff and San Fernando.
In B.C. 49 the town was captured by Csrsar, who here defeated Pom-
pey^s legates, Afranirs and Petreius. It is mentioned by Horace (Ep. I.
zx. 13). In the Visigothic period a council was held here (546). Lerida
wa« taken by the Moors in 713, by St. Lonis in 799, and by the Spanish
Christians in 1117. In 1149 Ramon Berengner IV. (p. 186) made it his
royal residence and the seat of the Bishop of Boda and Barbastro. The
university, founded here by James 11. in 1300, was transferred, like that
of Barcelona (p. 20Q), to Cervera (p. 214) in 1717. L^rida was taken by
the French in 1642, unsuccessfully besieged by them in 1646 and 1647, but
again taken in the War of the Spanish Succession (1707) and in the Penin-
sular War (1810). — It was on the Segre, near L^rida, that, according to
tradition, the daughter of Herodias met her appropr'ate retribution by
falling through the ice, which closed in upon her and cut off her head.
The city, which consists mainly of one long winding street
running parallel with the river, is thoroughly mediaeval in its ap-
pearance. About the middle the street expands into a plaza, on one
side of which stands the new church of San Juan, occupying the
site of the like-named late-Romanesque church of the 13th century.
Not far off is an interesting Romanesque house, with beautiful
*ajimez' windows of three lights ; the lower story was restored in
the Renaissance style in 1689.
To the left is a stone Bridge, built upon Roman foundations and
leading to the promenades on the other side of the Segre. Farther
•on in the main street is the New Cathedral, built in 1769. It is
216 Route 17. LfeRIDA.
preceded by a Corinthian portico and contains handsome choir-stalls
and numerous sculptures. In the sacristy are some embroidered
Testments and the swaddling clothes of the Infant Jesus.
On the highest point of the town, close to the walls of the for-
tress, stands the *Old Cathbdbal, a highly interesting building
in the late-Romanesque Transition style, with Gothic additions. (It
has been used for military purposes since 1717, and cannot be
entered without the special permission of the *gobernador'.) Mr. Street
describes this remarkable building as ha-ving *both extreme novelty
in the general scheme, and extreme merit in all the detail'. In
plan it consists of a short nave and aisles (measuring about 100 ft.
in each direction) , a strongly marked transept (166 ft. long and
42 ft. wide), and a main apse with a smaller one on each side of
it. Over the crossing is an octagonal tower, surmounted by a cupola
and adjoined by a slender turret containing the staircase. A smaller
tower rises over the S. transept. The W. end of the church is pre-
ceded in singular fashion by large cloisters, the inner court of which
is 92 ft. square , while each of the walks is 28 ft. wide. At the
S.W. external angle of these cloisters rises a lofty octagonal cam-
panile, set askew to the building. The foundation-stone of the
present edifice was laid by Pedro II. of Aragon on July 22nd, 1203,
on the site of some still earlier buildings ; and the church was con-
secrated in 1278. To the architect Pedro de Penafreyta (d. 1286)
are probably to be ascribed the central tower and the cloisters, the
windows and arches of which are, in contradistinction to the round-
headed openings of the older parts of the structure, in the pointed
or Gothic style. The building of the cloisters, however, went on
during the whole of the 14th century. To the same period may be
ascribed the chapels on the S. side of the church, while the com-
pletion of the campanile probably fell in the beginning of the
16th century. (The ascent of this tower is recommended, espe-
cially for the excellent bird's-eye view it affords of the cathedral
buildings as a whole.) The W. entrance to the cloisters seems to
date from the close of the 14th century. The cloisters are now used
as barracks, and their arches have been built up. The magnificent
and richly decorated Puerta dels Fillols^ or S. door of the church, is
also practically inaccessible, as its porch is used as a storehouse
for ammunition. There are other entrances in the N. and S. tran-
septs. The effect of the interior of the church has been entirely
spoiled by its division into two stpries through the construction of
a floor about halfway up the columns. The beautiful capitals of the
latter should, however, be studied on the upper floor.
To the N. lies the church of San Lorenzo (1270-1300), possess-
ing an octagonal tower of the 16th cent., a fine high-altar of the
14th cent., and beautiful Gothic windows. The nave is said to
have originally been a Roman temple, which the Moors converted
into a mosque and Ramon Berenguer XV. into a Christian church.
ANDORRA. n.Rouif. 217
In the Plazuela de la Pescaderfa is the so-called Peu del Romeu^
where St James of Compostela one night ran a thorn into his foot
and was aided by angels with lights. The young men and maidens
still celebrate his festival here. — Some Celtic graves and Celtic
coins have recently been discovered near the PUtrta de Boleros,
From Ltfrida to Saragoasa, sec R. 13; to Moniblanch (Poblet) and
Tarragona^ see B. 22.
From L^da a diligence ascends the valley of the 8egre to BcUagttery
and generally goes on also to Arteta de Segre. From Aitesa a road leads
via /VfM, TVwrona, and CasUUnov de Basella to Oliana (see below). At Basella
diverges a road to Sol§ona (see below).
SzennioB among the Eaitem Pyreneet (Urgel, Andorra).
A visit to the Eastern Pyrenees from Spain is attended by much greater
difQcolties and inconveniences than from the French side, where the
ample means of communication and the comfortable inns do much to
smooth the tourist's path (comp. Baedeker's South- Weetem France). — On
the Spanish side it is necessary to take not only a guide but provisions \
and the accommodation is always of the most primitive cast .
Cardona^ see p. 218 A fair road leads hence to (10V2 M.) Sohona, the
Seteliz of the Romans, situated on a lofty rock on the left bank of the
Rio Kegre. In the church is the Capilla de la Virgen del Claustro, a great
resort of pilgrims. — Farther on we cross the Eiera Salada and descend
to Caetellnou de Batella (see above), in tbe valley of the Segre. Tbence
we ascend the valley to (LOVs M.) Oliana, the church of which has a fine
portal with two monolithic Doric columns.
From Oliana a bridle-path ascends the valley of the Segre, which breaks
through the mountains by the imposing Pa$o de Tret PonU. — 13Vs M. Or-
gcAa^ in an expansion of the valley. Farther on we proceed through wild
gorges, cross the Fuente del Diablo^ and reah the mouth of the VcUira,
which descends from the Val Andorra. We here enter a more open part of
the valley, 7 M. long and 3 H. broad, in the midst of which lies —
Seo de tJrgel, a town of 2800 inhab , which has been the see of a
bii^hop since 840 and possesses a Gothic cathedral. It is also a strong
fortress, with the fort.: of CiiuUidela, Ccutillo^ and Torre de SoUona^ and
played a prominent part in the last Carliat war (1874-75). — [Urgel is about
27 H. from Puigcerda, the way to which a<)cends through the ravines of the
Segre valley to the district of CerdaUa. About halfway liei Bellter^ with
an ancient castle. Farther on are several villages. Puigcerda (4076 ft.;
Hdt. EuropOj plain), a strongly fortified Spaiiph frontier-town (2100 inhab.),
lies at the point where the Raur and Arc^d flow into the Segre. Better
quarters are obtained IV2 M. farther on, at the small French town of
Bourg-liadame.]
The route from Seo de Urgel to Andorra (a ride of 4 hr.^.) at first tra-
ver.?es a fertile district on the right bank of the Valira. At (40 min.) An-
aerall we cro.-'S to the left bank and then proceed through a ravine to
(i^fi hr.) the Spanish Frontier Station. We enter the Republic of Andorra,
ford a mountain -torrent named the AuvlKa^ cross a wooden bridge, and
reach (40 min.) Sem^a Julia., the flr^t village in Andorra and one of the.
chief seats of the smuggling that hai prevailed on this frontier from time
immemorial. — The route follows the rlpht bank of the Valira, passing
Aixobal and (60 min.) Santa Coloma^ to (Vs hr.) —
Andorra (3510 ft.; CalouneeU /»m, indifferent), a small town withSOOinhab.,
the capital of the republic, prettily situated at the foot of the Monte Andar.
The old Romanesque Church contains some good wood -carving. The Pa-
lacio or Casa del Valient in which the council-general meets and the exe-
cutive officers live, is a very unpretentious building. Above the door are
the arms of Andorra, with the motto: Domus Condlii^ Sedes Jtutidae. On
the ground floor is stabling for the horses of the members of the council.
218 Route /7. ANDO.IRA.
The council-chamber, npstairs, i3 surrounded with oaken benches and
contains an image of the Saviour. The Archive* of the republic, including
charters said to date from the times of Charlemagne and Louis the Pious,
are kept in a cupboard in this room. The cupboard is secured with six
locks, the keys of which are held by the six communea (see below) into
which the republic is divided. There is thus no chance for a stranger to
see its contents. The building also includes bedchambers for the deputies,
a school, and a gaol. — Near the town is the Moorish castle of Carol, the
name of which is connected with Carolus Magnus (Charlemagne).
The Kepublic of Andorra, an Alpine district about 17 M. square
(6000 inhab.)i in which oats and barley are the only crops, consists of six
Pyrenean valleys, wedged in between the French department of Ariege and
the Spanish province of L^rida. The six valleys form six communes or
parishes (parroqvias) and are subdivided into 24 Curarts (quarters). The
latter elect the Consejo General, consisting of four councillors from each com-
mune, and these in turn choose their Syndic (president). The election of the
last requires confirmation from the finarcial director at Barcelona, as one of
his functions is to guarantee the genuineness of the goods exported from
Andorra to Spain. — The Criminal Jurisdiction is vested in a so-called
Viguier (vicar), appointed by the Bishop of Urgel. (There is a second
viguier, appointed by France and with his seat at Prades^ but he is a
mere figure-head.) From the viguier an appeal lies to the Cortes de Jtuticia,
compo ed of the two viguiers in their capacity a"? judges of appeal, a not-
ary, a constable, and two Rohonadors Crai^onneurs', defenders). The Civil
Judges are two BaUes (bailiffs), selected by France and the Bishop of
Urgel from a list of ten persons submitted by the council. — Andorra
has no written code, but merely a body of common law, hallowed by time
and handed on by tradition. There is, however, a Manual Digeste, a private
publication of Dr. Antonio Filer in 1748; but only three copies of this
exist, one in the archives and the others in the possession of the Syndic
and the Bishop of Urgel. — The Armed Force, consisting of 6(X) men (10 per
cent of the population), is under the command of the viguier, who calls
it together annually. The entire male population capable of bearing arms
belongs to the reserve (somaten). The oflicials receive practically no sal-
ary; that of the councillors is 12 pesetns and a measure of barley an-
nually, while the members of the government draw six old Catalonian
pous (about 92 c.) daily during the session. — There are no taxes in An-
dorra except the Quistia or annual tribute paid to France (1920 p.) and
Spain (842 p.) in recognition of their suzerainty. The inhabitants live by
cattle -rearing, lumbering, agriculture, andiron-forging. Many of the chief
necessaries of life (salt, wine, fish, etc.) are imported from Franc? and Spain.
The native of Andorra is possessed of a more than 8cotti.«h caution ; the
Spanish expression 'hacerse el Andorrano'' means to bear oneself with pru-
dence and silence.
18. The Montserrat.
The excursion to Montserrat can be comfortably made from Barcelona
in one day by taking an early train and using the mountain-railway from
Monistrol. In this case, however, San Jerdnimo must be given up. Those
who have two days at their disposal will make either the ascent or descent
(if not both) on foot or in a carriage, visiting the convent on the first day
and San Jerdnimo on the second. Those who wish to visit Hanre3a(p.212)
may drive thither from Monistrol in the evenirg.
The Montserrat (i. e. the 'serrated mountain'), the Montsagrat or
'sacred mountain' of the Catalans, and the Monsalwatsch of the
German middle ages, which located here the castle of the Holy Grail,
Is a mighty mountain-mass rising in almost complete Isolation from
the plateau of Catalonia. Sharply outlined on every side, and
\i versified with the most fantastic rock - formations — the Gistaus
•Rgtojri6TidpMorusn_o ^
fteo*r. Anst-vAValner fcDebes .Leipzig .
: MONTSKRUAT. 18. Routf. 219
or 'stone watchmen' of the Arabs — the mountain from a distance
looks like & colossal castle. Mr. Edmondo de Amicis likens its jag-
ged sky-line to 'a chain of slender triangles, or a royal crown drawn
out till its points resemlile the teeth of a saw, or so many sugar
loaves ranged in a row'. Mr. Charles Dudley Warner writes that
'another mountain so airy , grotesque , and flame- like does not
exist/ The geological kernel of the mountain consists of the red-
dish clay-slate characteristic of this whole district, and superimposed
on this is a firm calcareous conglomerate or pudding-stone, resembl-
ing the conglomerate of the Rigi and often water-worn into holes
and fissures. The main axis of the mass runs from N.W. to S.E. ;
its circumference is about 15 M. Its enormous precipices make the
Bummit seem at first sight inaccessible. On the N.E. side, however,
both the road and the rack-and-pinion railway have made use of
the projecting terraces to climb circuitously to the convent, which
lies about two-thirds of the way up. On the other sides, partic-
ularly on the W, , the summit may be reached by clambering
through the steep and profound crevices known as Canales, A
hnge fissure, called the Valle MalOy intersects the crest from N.W.
to E. At the N.W. end of it rises the Tur6 de San Jer6nimo
(4070 ft.), the loftiest peak of the Montserrat. On the £. side the
Valle Male, traversed by the Torrente de Santa Maria ^ descends in
huge tenaoed steps of rock to the Llobregat; on a small promontory
of rock rising over one of these terraces is the famous Monastery,
The Llobregat flows across the N.E. side of the mountain, winds
round its S.E. base to Esparraguera, breaks through the coast-range
at Martorell, and finally waters the Gampifia of Barcelona. Its deep
valley, with the village of Monistroly is the chief element in deter-
mining the picturesque character of the N.E. side of the mountain. To
the S.W, is the olive and vine growing plain of Esparraguera, on a
gentle eminence in which lies the village of Collbatd. On the S.E.
the mountain is quite inaccessible. Thus, whether seen from a
distance or close at hand, the mountain presents two main facades,
that to the N.E. and that to the S.W. The former of these, showing
the ridge crowned by the fantastic pinnacles of the 'rocky sentinels',
is generally considered finer than the quieter and more idyllic S.W.
view. The N.E. slope of the mountain is covered with fine pine
woods, its flanks and its summit are clad with evergreen shrubs
(monte hajo = low wood). The flora of Montserrat is highly inter-
estiag, especially in spring.
a. Boute vi& Monistrol.
Monf$trol is a station on the railway from Barcelona to Ldrida (p. 212)
and is reached from the former in 1V4-2V4 hrs. (fares 5 p. 90, 4 p. 40,
^ p. 25 c). In conDection with all the trains a Mountain Railway (toothed
wheel system) ascends to the convent in 1 hr. (fares 3 p. 95, 2 p. 50 c. •,
in the reverae direction 2 p. 95, 1 p. 75 c.). Return-tickets Cida y vuelta^),
available for fix days and good for both railways, are issued in Barcelona
220 Route 18, MONTSERRAT.
at ihe Despacho Central (p. 194) and at the Estacidn del Norte (fares 15 p.,
10 p. 15, 7 p. 50 c.).
Cabbiagbb (2 p. per seat) also meet the trains at Monistrol. Tickets
for railway and carriage may also be obtained in Barcelona (fares 7 p. 20,
5 p. 50, 4 p. 10 c. ; return-fares 10 p. 45, 8 p. 45, 5 p. 86 c).
Walkbbs should use the mountain - railway as far as the village of
Monistrol, whence they can reach the convent in 2V2-3 hrs. (down l»/2-
2 hrs.); in starting from Monistrol station 1 hr. more must be allowed.
The railway-station oi Monistrol (p. 212) lies on a height on the
bank of the Llobregat, immediately opposite the Montserrat. It
commands a beantiful riew.
The Mountain Railway (best views to the left), built in 1892
and about 5 M. in length, at first descends from the station (633 ft.),
with an average gradient of 6 : 100, into the valley of the Llobregat,
crossing first the Riera de Mard and then the Llobregat itself, by an
iron bridge 130 yds. long (443 ft. above the sea). The line ttien
ascends to (21/2 M.) Momstrol Villa^ the station for the village
(p. 221) , which lies a little to the S. — Beyond this the rail-
way ascends rapidly along the N. side of the Valle de Santa Maria
(p. 221), ^th a maximum gradient of 15 : 100, and mounts the ter-
races of the Montserrat directly to the S.W. As we proceed, we obtain
a striking view of the rocky pinnacles (penascoa) on the crest of the
mountain. Immediately in front of us is the Turd de San Jerdntmo, at
the foot of which nestles the Chapel ofSt. CcdKo(p. 224). More to the
left are the Pctso de las Aguilas^ the Rocaa de las Golondrinas (p. 226 ;
also called Roca Aneha), the Roca de San PatridOj and the Roea de
las Once ('Eleven O'clock Rock') , which serves the inhabitants of
Monistrol as a sun-dial. These are followed by the Roea de San
Antonio J the Caball Bemat, and the Plana la Vella (Vieja), — The
line now crosses the head of the valley in a wide sweep to the left
and runs to the S.E. , below the road and close under the crest of
the Montserrat. To the left we have a fine view of the valley of the
Llobregat and of the distant snow-peaks of the Pyrenees. We finally
thread a tunnel below the promontory on which the Chapel of the Apos-
tles (p. 221) stands, and reach (5 M.J the Monastery of Montserrat
(2910 ft. ; p. 223), which we enter by the gate built in 1555.
The ♦Caebiagb Road up the mountain, constructed by the rail-
way-company in 1859, is also of surpassing beauty. Nearly all
the way it affords a superb view of the fantastic rocky forms of the
mountain, among which the giant -figure of the Caball Bernat is
conspicuous ; while its higher portion looks over the valley of the
Llobregat to the distant Pyrenees. Leaving the station, the road
passes (I74 M.) La Bauma, a workmen's colony, and descends to
the S.W. into the valley of the Llobregat, where many factories and
mills are driven by power derived from the river. In the river-bed is
a sulphur-spring ^manan^iai sulfurosa), and near the high old bridge
rises the Fuente Grande, which drives several mills. Not far from this
spot is the Fuente Mentirosa, an intermittent spring ; and there are
several others of the same kind in the neighbourhood. — Just beyond
MONTSERRAT. 18. Route. 221
the bridge the road to the baths of La Pnda (p. 212) and to Espar-
ngnera (see below) diverges to the left Onr road enters the Valle de
Santa Marin, at the month of which and at the base of the Montser-
rat lies the (2^2 M.) thiiying village of Moniitrol (Posada del
Llobregat, fair), snrronnded by vineyards and olive-groves. A little
higher up, 3 M. from the railway-station , stands the Capilla de la
TrMdad, erected as a memorial of the Morocco campaign of 1860.
The footpath mentioned below here diverges to the left. — From
this, the lowest terrace of the mountain, the road descends into the
Valle de Santa Maria and then ascends again to the N.E. at an
aeate angle, crosses the mountain - railway, and reaches a small fir
plantation, near which is the farm of La CaleHna (view). Thence
the road ascends the terraces of the mountain in numerous curves
and zigzags, until it is joined by the Manresa road (p. 212), coming
in from the N. Here it bends sharply to the S. and passes the
FuerUe de los Monjes, Farther on it is joined by the road from
Igualada (p. 229) and runs to the S.E. to the Capilla de los Apdstoies,
which affords a splendid view of the abysses of the Llobregat valley,
the sea, the Gueva de la Virgen (p. 226), the Capilla de San Miguel
(p. 225), and the huge precipices beneath which lies the monastery.
In the war with Napoleon the Spaniards planted a battery on this
commanding site. — The road finally leads to the S.W., between
the gorge on the left and the convent-buildings high up on the right,
passing the Fuenie del Milagro ('Spring of the Miracle'), and soon
reaches the (8 M.) monastery (p. 223), which does not come into
view till the very end of our trip.
The Footpath (Atajo al MotuuteHo) from the village of Honistrol to
the convent (IV4 hr. ^ guide advisable, 2^/n p.) commands much less fine
views than the carriage-road, to wliich its only superiority is that of
heing about >/z hr. shorter. It leads to the S.E. from the Capilla de la
Trinidad (see above), ascends steeply along the E. side of the mountain
and farther up joins the path to the Cueva de la Virgen (p. 225), which
may be visited before going on to the convent.
b. Boute yi& CoUbat6.
From Barcelona we travel by the inland railway to Tarragona as far
as UartoreU (p. 229 •, l-l"/* 1». '■> fares 3 p. 85, 3 p. 25, 2 p. 35 c). In summer
an omnibus Ctarkma*) plies daily from Martorell to (2 hrs.) CoUbca6
(IVa p.); in winter, however, it stops at Etparragwra (1 p.), whence a
private carriage must be hired for Collbat6 (about 5 fr.). From Collbatd
bridle-paths ascend to the convent (2 hrs., via San Jerdnimo S^/s-i hrs.).
Tickets are issued at the Detpacho Central (p. 194) and the Sstacidn de
Franda at Barcelona for the whole trip, including the railway, the drive
to Collbat6, and a saddle-horse thence to the convent by the direct path
(fares 7 p. 82, 7 p. 23, 5 p. 50 c).
MartoreUj see p. 229. — The route to the Montserrat follows
the Barcelona and Saragossa highroad as far as Esparraguera. The
fertile plain is covered with com-flelds, olive-groves, and vineyards.
Near Abrera is a gorge, beyond which we traverse the valley of the
MoAjuemeUa^ fording that river in the absence of a bridge.
6 M. Esparraguera (Posada del Montserrat), with a fine church
222 Route 18. MONTSERRAT.
containing a beautifully carved organ. A road leads hence to La
Puda (p. 212) and Monistrol (p. 212). — Our route also quits the
highroad and ascends gradually to —
9V'2 ^* Collbati {* Fonda Vacaritaa^ unpretending, K. and board,
including luncheon for consumption at San Jeronimo, 6 p. ; inter-
esting visitors' book), a prettily situated village , owing its name
to the old castle of Oat6 (now called Torre del Moro), It affords
a fine view of the rocky wall of the Montserrat, about 1300 ft. in
height. A white spot halfway up marks the entrance of the Cuevas
de Saliire (saltpetre cave).
A visit to the cave (there and back 3 h».) is hardly worth the troable.
The landlord of the inn at Collbatd provides a guide (SVsp.), torches
[antoreha; 2^/i p. each^ one enough for2pers.)i and Bengid fire (3 p. each;
not indiapensable). The path (up */a^ down Vs hr.) descends through the
village , passes a spring, and then ascends rather rapidly. The last part
of it, consisting of steps of stone and wood, is unpleasant for those in-
clined to giddiness. The fatiguing visitation of the cave takes about l*/4 hr.
The most interesting part is the entrance itself, where a large block of
rock has fallen from the roof. Fanciful names have been given to different
parts of the cavern, sach as La EtperamOy El Ccunarin, El Tocador de las
Silfidet, Pozo del Diablo, Oruta de lot Stalactites, and GrtUa de la Dama
Blanca. The temperature gradually rises from 50° Fahr. at the entrance
to BS" in the inner recesses.
DiBECT Path fb,om Collbato to the Convent, 2 hrs. (guide,
desirable, for the day 3 p. and food, with horse 5 p.). — We at first
follow the road skirting the base of the mountain towards the N.W.
After 20 min. we diverge to the right and ascend in countless wind-
ings. After 40 min. more we pass the Fuenle Seca (now walled in),
a spring which dried up when the Fuente del Milagro (p. 221) was
formed. In 8/4 hr. we reach the crest of the ridge, where our path
is joined on the left by that coming from the Ermitas and San Je-
ronimo (see below). We then pass the Gapilla de San Miguel (p. 22o)
and reach the convent (p. 223) in 20-26 min. more.
FkoM C0LLBAT6 TO THE MONASTEET VIA SaN Jeb6nIM0, 3V2"
4 hrs. (guide necessary; horse and *mozo' provided by the landlord
at Collbat6 for 6 p., including food; in winter luncheon must be
taken from Collbato, but later on a restaurant is opened at San Je-
ronimo). The bridle-path is somewhat uncomfortable, but as a
whole this is one of the finest trips on the Montserrat. — We follow
the above-mentioned road, pass (20 min.) the beginning of the direct
path (see above), and in 10 min. more, near the Vina Nova, ascend
to the right, through pine- woods. To the right are the Ariiga Alta
and Artiga Baja, separated by the Canal de las Yedrcu (Catalan
Eurcui), or Gorge of the Ivy. To the left is the Canal del PuerUe,
with its huge circus of rock. We now ascend the Vueltaa del Pumte.
To the right towers the Castillo, an outlier of the Sierra de las Pa-
parras. The flanks of the mountain are clothed with evergreen
shrubs. Farther up we reach a ridge, where we have the Clot de la
Sajolida to the left, and the Monte de San Juan or the Rocas de Santa
Magdalena la Vieja to the right. In front rises the Albarda Castellana
MONTSKRRAT. 18. Route, 223
(p. 226). In IS/4 hr. we leach the crest, where we obtain a fine view
of the YaUe Male (p. 219), with the Caball Bemat and the Dedos,
between which the distant Montseny is visible. In V4 ^^^ our path
joins that from the convent and ascends to the left, partly in shade,
through the steep gorge of the VaUe Malo. In 20 min. more we
reach the height of San Jerdnimo (p. 226). The descent hence to the
conveut Ukes 1-1 V2 hr. (see pp. 226-224).
e. The MouMtery and iti Neighbourhood.
Adjoining the Parador^ where the carriages pull up, is the Pespacho
de Apo$aUo». Here we must at once register our names, in order to secure
a room, of which there are about sixty in all , some with a kitchen at-
tached. No charge is made for rooms, but it is usual to give 2Vv-5 p. per
Bight. A special permlasion is necessary for a stay of more than three
days. Candles (25 c. eachl may also be procured in the Despacho.
Heals are usually taken in the very tolerable Fonda to the S. of the
entrance (almnerzo or comida Vft-i p.). Poor visitors receive food gratis
in the Despacho de Comestibles. Adjoinin<; the Fonda is a good Cc^i.
Guide 0 p. per day; to the various points of interest, see below and
tariff posted up in the Despacho. — Saddle Horses (Catalgadwcts) are also
supplied at fixed prices.
The Monaiterio del Montserrat (2910 ft), one of the oldest
and most celebrated convents in Spain, was founded, according to
the legend of the miraculous image of the Virgin (p. 224) , as a
imnnery in 880 ; but it seems probable that there was a Benedictine
settlement here before the incursion of the Moors in 717. In 976 it
was restored to the Benedictine Order and peopled with monks from
Ripoll (p. 191). In 1410 Pope Benedict XIII. raised it to the dignity
of an independent abbey, but it was again subordinated to the Bishop
of Barcelona in 1874. It formerly possessed immense wealth, but
lost nearly all its movable property in the War of Independence
(1808-14), while it was deprived of its real estate in 18B5 on the
suppression of the convent in consequence of the Garlist rising. In
the first of these categories was its famous library, including a num-
ber of priceless MSS. At present there are about a score of monks.
Their chief occupation is the management of a school of ecclesiastical
music (La Escolanfa)^ the members of which generally sing the
Salve in the church at the time of Ave Maria (La Oraev6n). The an-
nttal number of visitors and pilgrims to the convent is said to be
about 60,000. The chief festival is on Sept. 8th.
^The buildings at the entrance give on a large court, shaded with
plane-trees, where a small market is held nearly every morning. To
the left is the Old Monastery, in front the New Monastery. ,
The Old Monastesy (Antiguo Mcmasterio, Cat. Antich Monastir)
is for the most part in ruins. The main points of interest are the
Gothic cloisters of 1460, the unfinished bell-tower of the same cent-
ury, and the facade of the old church. On the groundfloor of the
Apotmtos de San Pldcidolis a small museum, containing- old capitals
and other architectural fragments, relics of old tombstones, etc.
224 Rmdt 18. MONTSERRAT.
The New Monastery (Monasterio Actual) consists of an impos'
ing Churchy occupying one side of an arcaded court called the F6Tiico
Modemo, and of the secular buildings on the other three sides of the
court. The latter were built under Ferdinand VII., but were left
unfinished owing to the troubles of 1836. The church was built in
the Renaissance style under Philip II. (1660-92) and was much in-
jured by fire in 1811. In 1860 a Romanesque apse was added to it.
iKTERioB. The aisleless nave is 225 ft. long, 62 ft. wide, and 109 ft.
high. It is flaaked on each side with six chapeli, each 23 tt. deep. Above
the first four chapels are galleries, like those at the Escorial •, the last two,
to the right and left, are enclosed by lofty rejas. Above the high- altar,
surrounded by four ever-burning cmdles, is La Santa Imogen (Cat Santa
Imaije)y a small wooden figure of the Virgin, blackened by age. According
to the legend, it was made by St. Luke and brought to Spain by St. Peter ;
for its rediscovery in 880, see p. 225. — Ignatius Loyola, after abandoning
his military life in consequence of wounds received at the defence of
Pampeluna in 1521, hung up his weapons before this image and devoted
himself to the service of Christ and the Virgin. The Santa Imagen is shown
only at 10 a.m. ('visitar la Virgen'), usually to the chanting of one of the
priests. — The Sacristy contains the valuable wardrobe and jewels of the
holy image. — Adjoining the sacristy is the entrance to the Crypt^ in which
the monks are buried.
A door in the N.W. angle of the Portico Modemo (to the right as
we leave the church) leads to a passage flanked with walls. Ascend-
ing to the right at the end of this, we reach *El Mi&adob db los
MoNJES, or convent-garden, situated on a terrace below the pre-
cipices of the mountain and commanding splendid views of the
Llobregat valley and the Pyrenees. The garden is, unfortunately,
seldom open to visitors. In front, on a promontory, are the CapiUa de
San Acisclo and the Capilla de Santa Victoria,
From the Cap. de San Acisclo the *Cawmo de loaDegotalls, a level
path 3/4M. long, runs to theN.W., skirting the base of the cliffs, to the
so-called Degotalls ('drops'), a kind of grotto with a spring. This is,
perhaps, the finest walk the Montserrat affords. The vegetation is
exuberant and the view most extensive. The latter embraces the
whole of Catalonia and a considerable part of Aragon ; the entire
chain of the Pyrenees from the Maladeta to the Canigou, and the
Mediterranean to the S.E. At our feet, apparently within a stone's
throw, lies Monistrol. Along the cliffs runs a pipe carrying water to
the convent. — Another short path descends to the right of the
Chapel of St. Acisclo to the Capilla de los Apostoles (p. 221).
Walking Trips from the Monastery. — 1. We follow the
Monistrol road (p. 221) and then (left) the Igualada road to the
(1 hr.) Capilla. db Santa Cecilia, (guide 2^2 Pm superfluous), at
the base of the Turo de San Jeronimo. The chapel was built in 872,
and a small convent was added about a century later. The most
interesting feature is the Campandrio de Espadana, or bell-tower.
Adjacent is a small inn. — Near this point lay the Castillo Marro^
one of the Christian fastnesses on the Montserrat in the 9th century.
The others were the castles of Morasiat, Oiger, ColVbatd^ and Quardia,
MONTSERRAT, 18. Route. 225
% By the CoUbato bridle-path to the S.E. to (18-20 miiu) the
Capilla db San Mioubl (guide, saperfluoos, 1 p.). From the
chapel we may descend for 6 min. towards the N.E. to a cross named
Mkador^ whence a precipice over 2000 ft. in height descends to the
valley of the Llobregat. Just below the cross, but not visible ft'om
it, is the Gneva de la Yirgen (see below). The monastery looks very
singular from this point of view. To the N.£. is the Montseny. —
From the path to St Michael's Chapel another footpath leads to the
right to the cave of the legendary San Juan GAnfN, a hermit who
died in 898, after having inflicted the severest penances on himself
for his evil treatment of Riqnilda, daughter of Count Wilfrid the
^^^fY (p- 1^)* ^<) entrance is marked by a black cross on the
face of the rock.
3. The ^Sendero de Santa Maria\ marked by numerous linger
posts (guide 1 p., unnecessary), descends firom the convent to (^^hr.)
the Santvabio db la Cubva or Cueoa de la Virgen (not accessible
in winter). This was erected at the end of the 17th cent, over the
fTTotto in which the miraculous image of the Virgin (p. 224) was
hidden in 717 on the invasion of the Moors. It was found again by
shepherds in 880, and an attempt was made to carry it to Manresa.
The image, however, refused to stir beyond a spot now marked by
a stone cross with an inscription, just to the E. of the convent; and
it was this miracle that led to the erection of the latter.
4. To San Jbb6nimo (2 hrs., there and back 3-4 hrs. ; guide,
2*/2 p., desirable). We follow the Collbato bridle-path as above to
(1&-20 min.) the CapiUa de San Miguel, about 5-6 min. be)ond
which is a finger -post indicating the route to (IV4 lir.) Collbato
(p. 222) to the left. We here follow the path to the right, which
sweeps round the Trenea Batrale towards the Yalle Malo, affording
dne views of the country round Collbato and Esparraguera. On and
among the rocks we see the picturesquely situated remains of the
hermitages of Santiago, Santa Catalina, San Onofre y San Juan, and
Sania Magdalena la Vieja. In 12-16 min., above the Ermita de Santa
Anaj we reach the , Yalle Halo (p. 219), an imposing mountain
valley, traversed by the Torrente de Santa Maria and popularly believed
to have been formed at the moment of Christ's death on the cross.
We may also reach the Ermita de Santa Ana in ahont 20 min. by a
footpath which is shorter than the 1 bridle-path, but not nearly so pictur-
esque. For this route we turn to the right on emerging from the portal
of the monastery and ascend by the so-called ^Jacob'^s Ladder' through the
narrow Valle Malo.
Farther on the path follows the Torrente de Santa Maria, the first
and fairly level portion traversing the lAano de Vfporas. The ridges
on both sides of the valley are topped by the fantastic Penascosj or
'(Juardians of the Holy Grail', some of which are 300 ft. high. To
the right are the Caball Bemat , the Bocas de San Antonio, with
the hermitage of that name (reached by a stiff climb of */2 hr.), the
CaUtvera (skull), and the Dedos (fingers) or Flautat (flutes) , also
BAKDBKKa's Spain. 15
226 Routt 18. MONTSERRAT.
called the J^oeetion de Monjts (procession of monks). To the left is
the Albarda Caatellana, or Gastilian saddle. On the right side are
the Ermitas de San Benito^ de la Trirudctd^ de San Dimat, and other
hermitages. Near San Dimas lay the castle of Monsiat (p. 224).
The hermitage of 8an Jerlmimo (Cat. Sant Jeroni) lies about
1 hr. to the N.W. of Santa Ana, just below the culminating peak of
the mountain, which is reached hence in 20 min. by a scramble
over smooth and slippery rocks (caution necessary). The summit,
known as El Mirador, La Miranda^ or the Tur6 de San JeHkdmo
(4070 ft.), commands a superb ** Panorama of the Catalonian
mountains and plains, extending on the N. to the Pyrenees and on
the E. and S. far over the Mediterranean, where even the Balearic
Islands may be made out on exceptionally clear days. The view of
the Montserrat itself is also interesting. Among the nearer points
(not already mentioned) are the CHgante Encantado (the enchanted
giant), the Montgros, the Plana de los Rayos (lightnings), and the
EcoSj with their sheer and dizzy cliffs. The iron ring in the rock was
formerly used for mooring a small chapel. — The landlord of the
Gollbato inn opens a restaurant at the hermitage of San Jer6nimo
from May to the end of Oct. (excellent water from a cistern in the rock).
Steady-headed mountaineera may climb from San Jer6nimo the Of* br.)
Rocas de leu Oolondrinas (*8wallow-rockfl''), which ri»e boldly to the N. of
the Roca Montcau or del Moro.
The ascent of the Mantgros (21/2 hrs. from the monastery) ia intereating
but difficult (guide indispenaable).
19. From Barcelona viS, San Vicente deCalders to Bins
(Saragossa, Madrid).
The coaat-railway from Barcelona to R^ua forma the moat direct and
important line of communication between Barcelona and Saragoasa (Madrid):
the inland railway via Martorell is moatly uaed for local traffic, but is of
importance for the visitor to Montaerrat.
a. Coast Bailway vik Yillanneya y Oeltri.
66 M. Railway (two through-traina daily, in the height of aummer five-,
to Madrid one only) in 3V4-7V4 hrs. (farea H p. 55 c, 11 p., 7 p. 40 c.). The
express train mentioned at p. 1*^0 a'ao performa the journey thrice weekly
in 2V4 hra. Passengers travelling direct from Barcelona to Lirida via
Montblanch (Poblet) quit this line at Roda de Bard (p. 227). — Trains
leave Barcelona from the Eataci6n de Francia. Detpacho Central^ aee p. 194.
Best viewa to the left. — Kailway-reatauranta at Barcaona, Villanueva y
Oeltru, Roda de Bard^ and San Vicente de Calders.
Barcelona^ see p. 194. — The train traverses the suburban dis-
tricts of (6 M.) Sans and (6V2 M.) Bordeta, with their gardens, fields,
and factories. To the left rises the Montjuich fp. 210), with the W.
cemetery ; to the right is the Montana de San Pedro Mdrtir (p. 211),
with the villages of Esplugaa and San Jtist, The line touches the
beautiful Campina de Barcelona, crosses the Llobreeat by an iron
bridge,J380 ft. long, and reaches (^%U.}Ptat deLlobregaly a pleas-
VILLANUEVA Y GELTRU. 19. RouU. 227
ant little town on the right bank of the river, near the sea, with sev*
era! Artesian welli.
We now traTOTse an attractive undulating district, with Tineyards
and olive-groves. 141/2 M. Oavd, Beyond the ruins of the old Ccm-
tmo de ArampruiiH is (17 M.) CaiteUdefeU, a poor fishing- village with
a small Romanesque ohureh and remains of mediaeval fortiflcationB.
At (18 M.) VeiUbona we approach the margin of the sea, and then ,
traverse the barren and precipitous heights of the Coatatde Oarraf, The
dwarf-palms or palmetto-scrub (Chamaerops hum ills) growing here
is used as fuel. The numerous tunnels allow the merest glimpses of
the sea. Several mountain-torrents are crossed.
26 M. 8iige» (Fonda Suburense), a pleasant seaport with 8100
Inhab., is favourably known for its wine. Near it is the Santuario de
NueitraSeHoradel Vinyet. — We continue to skirt the sea, crossing
the RUra de CanblUu and several torrents.
31 M. "^miaaveTft y Oeltrti (Fonda Naciondl; RaU. Restaurant),
a thriving commercial town with a pop. of 12,800. The Mtaeo
BaUtguefy founded by the Catalan poet Victor Balaguer, contains
Egyptian and Roman antiquities, paintings and sculptures, an ethno-
graphical collection, and a valuable library with MSS. Arom Poblet
(p. 238), Paular (p. 122), and other places. British vice-consul.
The railway Intersects a large part of the town and threads a
tunnel. Just beyond (34 M.) CubeUaa we cross the FoiXy a river
forming the boundary between the provinces of Barcelona and Tarra-
gona. — ■ At (39 V2 M.) Calafell we turn away from the sea, crossing
the Riera de BUbdl and the tra'^ks of the railway to Tarragona.
42 M. Baa Ticente de Calders (Rail. Restaurant), the junction
for the Barcelona and Tarragona line (R. 20) and the terminus of
the inland railway (see p. 230).
As we proceed, the triumphal Portal de Bara (p. 230) is seen to
the left — 47 M. Roda de Bara (Rail. Restaurant).
Fkom Bod a db Baka to Picamoixoms (for Liridd), 18 M., railway (three
traiBS daUy) in 1-lVs lur. (fares 4, 3, 2 p.). — The raUway diverges to the
K.W. from the main line. Tunnel. Numerous vineyards. — 5 M. Salamd.
Beyond three tunnels we croaa the Gayd. From (S'/s M ) Vildbetta or from
Vails (see below) we may visit the old Cistercian convent of Baatas Creas,
situated SVs M. to the V., in the valley of the Oaya, near VHabrodtma.
The convent wa9 founded by Bamon Berenguer IV. in 1157 and was almost
wholly destroyel in the popular rising again t the monks In 1685. It is
the hurinl-place of Pedro III. of Aragon (d. 1285) and [of the celebrated
Admiral Roger de Laoria (see p. 2)2), who defi^ate I the French fleet of
Charles of Anjou at Naples in 1284. — 10 M. NulUa. — ISVa M. Valla,
an industrial town of 11,800 inhab., with well-pr .served walls and towers.
A diligence runs h3nce to Tarragona (p. 231). — We now cross several
oiountaln-torrenta and thread a tunnel. — 18 H.^PtcamoiorofM, S2e p. 2dS.
The Reus line runs towards the W. and enters the wine-growing
hill-district of CoU de Moniera. To the left we have several distant
views of the sea. — 48 M. Pohla; 61 M. Riera, — We traverse sev-
eral tunnels, cuttings, and viaducts, cross the Oaya (see above*)
and reach (521/2 M.) Catilar. Beyond (67 M.) Seeuita Perafort t?
15*
228 Route 19. Rl^US. From Barcelona
traiu crosses the highroad from Tarragona to Ltfrida and then the
Francolf (p. 237). From (691/2 M.) Morell^ where we have a wide
view on the left extending to Tarragona, we descend to —
66 M. BiuB (Hot. de PaHt), a prosperous industrial town with
27,700 inhab., situated at the base of a range of hills. It was the
birthplace of the celebrated painter Mariano Foriuny (p. Ixxxiv)
, and of General Ftim (1814-70), whose sword is preserved in the
town-hall. The site of the old fortifications is now occupied by a
promenade named the Arrabal, The octagonal tower (206 ft. high)
of the church of San Pedro commands a view reaching to the sea.
About the beginning of the present centilry English manufacturers
introduced cotton-spinning , which now employs 5000 looms and
has made Reus the second manufacturing town of Catalonia. Silk,
linen, leather, soap, machinery, and other goods are also made here;
and Reus is likewise known for its ^champagne' and other imita-
tion French wines. The manufacturing population is one of the
most unruly in Spain.
From Reus to Saragosta, see R. 14; to LSrida, see B. 22.
b. Inland Bsilway ▼!& MartoreU.
76 M. Rail WAT (three through-trains daily) in 4V4-6V4 hrs. (fares 14 p.
55 c, 11 p., 7 p. 40 c). There 10 also a local train from Barcelona to Marto-
reU. Trains start from the Estad&n de Francia (p. 194). Tickets to the
Montterratj see p. 221. — The inland railway diverges from the coastline
at Bordeta^ and re-anites with it at San Vicente de Caldert. — There are no
railway-restaurants en route.
Barcelona, and thence to (5V2 M.) Bordeta, see p. 226. — Our
line runs to the N.W., through the valley of the Llobregat.
7^2 ^' Hospitalet de LZcbregat, a town with 2400 inhab., beyond
which we see the agricultural institute of San Isidro to the left,
while on the right, in front, rises the Montserrat (p. 218). — 91/2 M.
Comelld de Llobregat, on the Aciquia de la Infanta, with silk-mills.
On a hill to the left lies San Boy de Llobregat, the parish-church of
which is known as the *Catheiral of the Llobregat'. — We now
descend into the valley of the Llobregat itself.
11 M. San FeUa de Llobregat. The sides of the valley, consisting
of clay Intermingled with blocks of stone, are worn into huge fur-
rows by the rain. Numerous un walled terraces (graderfa) and artifi-
cial caverns are seen. The tawny soil bears no crops unless artifi-
cially irrigated. — 13^2 M. MoUm del Bey, in a fruitful region, is
known for its bridge of 15 arches, carrying the Villafranca road
(p. 229) across the Llobregat.
At Vcaiirana, 71/2 M. to the S.W., the Villafranca road crosses the inter-
esting Puente del Lladoner, a two-storied viaduct built at the end of the
iSth century. The flrst stage consists of 7 arches, 28 ft. in span, the second
of 13 arches, 40 ft. in height.
The railway keeps to the left bank of the Llobregat, passing under
the village of PaUejd by a tunnel. — I6V2 M. Papfol, with an old
cabtle. The Montserrat becomes more conspicuous , its formations
to RSw. MARTORELL. 79. Route. 229
recalling the Dolomites of 8. Tyrol. Wells and other apparatus for
irrigation are seen in the fields. On the S. side of the Llobregat
lies the Tillage of San AndrU de la Barea, We approach closely to
the rlTer and thread a tnnnel. On issuing from the latter, -we see to
the left the *PuefiU del Diablo, an old Roman bridge, which has
been wrongly ascribed to the Garthaginians. It probably consisted
originally of three small arches, two of vhich seem to have been re-
placed at some time or other by the present high and pointed main
arch, on the top of which is a small gate. On the left bank, near
which a smaller arch has been cut through the masonry, stands a
much damaged Roman Triumphal Arch, of uncertain date. The last
of the numerous reconstructions of the bridge was made in 1753.
Below the bridge the Llobregat penetrates the Montafuu dt Ordal
by a deep raTine.
2IV2 M. Xartorell, a town with 3000 inhab., at the confluence
of the Llobregat and the Noya, is the station for the ascent of the
Montserrat from the S.E. (comp. p. 221). The mountain here shows
itself ill its full grandeur, with Collbato and the beautiful plain of
the Llobregat at its base.
A Baanch Railway (24Vs M., in IV2-IV4 hr. ^ farea 4 p. 40, 3 p. 30, 2 p.
20 c.) runs to the N.W. from Martorell, along the 8.W. aide of the Mont-
serrat, to Igualadft, an industrial town on the l^oya, with 10,200 inhab-
itants. From Ignalada there is a road to the Monatiery of Montserrat (p. 223)
vii Casa Mcutana and the CapiUa de Santa Cecilia (p. 224). A diligence
runs from Ignalada to San Guim (p. 214).
The main line ascends to the S.W., through the valley of the
Noya, to the plateau of Villafranca. The stream is crossed repeatedly,
and the Montserrat remains prominent in the view.
A little beyond (26 M.) Oelida we see the ruins of a castle and a
church with a Gatalonian bell-tower. The slopes are strewn with
great blocks of stone. We traverse a cutting 90 ft. deep.
29^/2 M. San Sadumi or San Saturnino de Noya , the Noela of
Pliny, ascribes its foundation and its name to Noah and bears an
ark in its coat-of-arms. — We pass through a cutting 3/^ M. long,
the sides of which are faced with tiles to prevent the constant ooz-
ing out of the moist clay. The scenery is monotonous. A few groves
of pines are passed. The line ascends a little, quits the valley of the
Noya, threads a tunnel, and reaches the main plateau at (34 M.) La
Qranada. — We then descend to —
37 M. Villafranca del Panadas, a town of 8100 inhab., forming
the focus of the wine-growing district of Panadea. To the N.W. rise
the Monianas de Montagut (3125 ft.), to the S.E. the ridge of La
MoreUa (1950 ft.), to the N.E. the Montserrat. The town contains a
. much-modernized church with a bell-tower of the 14th cent., an old
palace of the Kings of Aragon, the palace of the Barons de Rocafort,
and an old pilgrims' hospital (Pia Almovna). — About 7 M. to the
N.W. lies San Martin de Sarroca, with an excellently preserved Ro-
manesque church of the 11th century.
230 Route 20. ALTAFULLA.
40 M. Monjot. — W/^ M. AMa, on the hill to the left, is the
first place in the province of Tarragona, To the right are the heights
of the PanadSs, The church of San Julian, with its three towers,
is worth seeing. On the facade are statues of the four great Latin
Fathers of the Church, St. Julian, and the Virgin. *- The train de-
scends to the S.W. into tiie productive wine -growing district of
(481/2 M.) VendreU, a town with 4900 inhab. and a lofty bell-tower,
which rises in three stages and is surmounted by a revolving figure.
52 M. San Vicente de CalderSy and thence to (76 M.) BiuSy see
pp. 227, 228.
20. From Barcelona vi& San Vicente de Calders to
Tarragona (Tortosa^ VaUnciuJ.
bin. or 67 M . Railway (Ferrocarriles de Tarragona d BarceUma y
Franeia) in 3V2-4V4 hra. (fares 12 p. 25, 9 p. 56, 6 p. 15 c). One through-
train runs daily by the coast-railway (3V2 hrs.) via ViUanue»a y GdH
(p. 227), two by the inland line via MartoreU (p. 239). IVo trains daily
run through to Valencia in 12-12V4 hrs., one on each line 027 or 237 M.:
fares 40 p. 75, 27 p. 76, 19 p. 60 c). — The trains start from the Estaciun
de Franeia (p. 194). Despacho CeatrcU^ see p. 194. — Railway rCEtaurants
at Barcelona^ Villanueva y QeUHi^ San Vicente dt Caiders, and Tarragona.
Barcelonoj and thence to (42 M. or 52 M.) San Vicente de Caldertj
see K. 19.
The Tarragona line runs close to the sea, the sandy beach of
which is fringed with aloes. — About 3 M. beyond San Vicente, on
a hill to the right, stands the so-called Portal de Bard^ a Roman
triumphal arch, 40 ft. high and with a span of 16 ft. On each side
are two (partly modern) pilasters. The inscription, not now extant
but recorded by early travellers, ran : *ex testamento L. Licini L.
F. Serg. Surae consecratum*. This connects the arch with the wealthy
Lucius Licinius Sura, mentioned by Dion Oassius, and refers its
erection to the beginning of the 2nd cent of the Christian era. A
Roman road ran below the archway.
4872 (P^^/i) M. Torredemharrd, a fishing-village on Cape Gros,
is the most convenient starting-point for a visit to the above-men-
tioned monument. — 60 (60) M. Altafulla, finely situated on a
height. The railway crosses the Oayd and recedes from the sea.
On the hill to the right, above the s-andy Playas Llargcu, on the road
from Barcelona to Tarragona, lies the so-called Sepulcro de loa Baeipionet,
a square Roman monument, 27 ft. high, rising in two stages from a stepped
platform. On the front are two mourning figures. The inscriptions are
now illegible. Between the figures was a tablet, said to have been re-
moved by Card. Xim^nes. The belief that this is the tomb of the brothers
Gnseus and Cornelius Scipio, both of whom fell at Anitorgis (p. 181), has
no solid foundation. The monument, which commands a fine view of the
sea and Tarragona, may be visited from the latter (3 M.) or from AltafuHa.
The railway again skirts the coast, and then runs through a deep
cutting, 1100 yds. long, to the right of which is the high-lying city,
while to the left is the Presidio (p. 232).
57 (67) M. Tarragona.
231
21. Tarragona.,
XattwAy 8toti0B (JMoeidn; PL G, 4), to tb« 8. of the tows, n—M the
hcrbonr. OmmOmHt (fwe, iacL luggage, V*-! P-) nn henee to the hotela.
Hetola. *Qkam Uotkl dk Paris (Pi. »s i>, fi,3), BambU Sm Oariof,
adjoining the infAiitry barracks, with baths | *J?oNoa i>i Eukopa (Pi. b;
I>, 2), Bambla San Juan, pens, at these two 6-7 p. \ Fuhda dkl Cemtho
(PI. C-, i>, 3), Bambla San Juan, opposite the last, aU three unpretending.
Oafca (comp. p. zxii). iqf4 de Jarragona^ Ca^i d» Pari$^ both in the
Kambla dan Juan^ Cafi <k £spaSUt^ Bambla dan Ctirlos.
Theatres. Teatro Principal iPl. D, 2j, Bumbla San Carlos t Twiro da
AUMto. -^ Bull Bing (i*kua d$ Torog), to the W. of the new town, with
room for 17,5U) spectators.
Phetofxmphs sold by Torres, Bambla San Juan.
Pest Oftlee (iorreo), Calle de San Agustin (PL D, 3).
British Yice-GMisiil, Tk9ma$ Bob:n9tm, Plasa Olosaga. — United BUtes
OeunlarAffsnt, IVaifo Montapa. — Lloya s Agents, Corey Brother* ^ Co.
Plaa of Visit. Tarragona is much less often Tisitod than it deservea,
as it is not only one of the hittorically most interesting towns in Spain,
but also possesses ancient monuments of great significance. Those who
wish to see all that the town has to offer, as well as the Roman Aqueduct
(p. 'i37) and the 'Jomb of Vie Seipiot (p. 23U), may pass two or three days
liere with pleasure and profit, ihose who devote only one day to Tarrar
gona should waU from the station by the Paeeo de Santa Clara (p. 233;
views) to the JSurta de 8(.n Antonio (p. 233), and afterwards visit the noble
Cathedral (p. 233), with its cloisters, the ifclopeat^Roman Walle (p. 236), in
the Bajada del Kosario, and the Mtueum (p. 2i56).
lamagona^ with 24,400 inhab., the capital of a proYlnce and the
seat of an archbishop, who shares with that of Toledo the title of
Primate of Spain, is picturesquely situated on a hill rising steeply
from the sea to a height of about 530 ft. It has a large but some-
what deserted harbour, and in spite of its modern additions has a
dull and poverty-stricken appearance. Its once strong fortifications
have been more or less in ruins since 1811, but it stiU ranks as a
'Plaza de Armas', and the traveller had better refrain from making
sketches in its streets. The highest point, the seat of the ancient
citadel, is now occupied by the cathedral, the archiepiscopal palace,
and a seminary for prie^t8. These form the nucleus of the Old
Town, with its narrow and irregular street^, bounded on the S.E. by
the Plaza de la Fueiite, which was once the Koiiian circus. The houses
are largely built out of the remains of ancient buildings, and stones
with Roman in.^criptions and fragments of Roman sculptures are met
at every step. The rest of the area of Tarragona is occupied by the
New Town, intersected in its entire width by the Rambla de San
Carlos and the Rambla de San Juan. The N. and E. environs of
Tarragona are dreary, but to the W. stretches the fertile Campo de
Tarragonaj watered by the Francoli (p. 237) and corered with vine-
yards, olive-groves, and orchards of almond and nut trees.
The ancients, probably without good reason, ascribed the foundation
of the original rocky fatness of Tdrrcuso to the Etruacans. In B.C. 218,
during the Second Funic War, it was captored by Qnaeu* and Fubliue
Comeliiu Sdpio^ who selected it as the Roman headquarters in Si>ain in
opposiition to New Carthage (p. 29U) and constructed here a large harbour
and important fortifications. As a Koman colony (ColoiUa toffoia) it became
^he seat of one of the four Conven*v* Juridieiy or judicial circuits or die-
232 RouU2l. TARRAGONA. Paste dt S. Clara.
tricts, into which Hitpania Citerior was divided (New Carthage, Tarraco,
Gsesar-Augusta, Glunia). Id spite of its espousal of the cause of Pompey,
Gnsar conferred on it the title of Julia Victrix^ and Angitstiu resided here
in the winter of B.C. 26. The great emperor also made it the capital of
the whole province, which was henceforth generally known as Hiapcmia
Tarraeonemis. He adorned the city with namerous magnificent buildings,
and the citizens on their part erected a- temple of the Divus Augustus,
afterwards restored by Hadrian. At this period it is believed to have con-
tained one-and-a-half million of inhabitants. Martial and Pliny celebrate
the sunny shores (aprica litora) of Tarraco, and its wines which rivalled
those of Falemian vintage.
In the Christian period Tarraco became the see of an archbishop. In
475 the Visigoths under Euric captured the dty, destroyed part of it, and
removed the bishopric to Vich (p. 191). It again suffered reverses through
its capture by the Moors in 713. Under the Counts of Barcelona the arch-
bishop was restored (1069), but the city remained in a state of decay.
Trade left it for the Christian Barcelona and the Moorish Valencia. During
the War of Independence Tarragona was occupied by the English, but on
June 29th, 1811, after a gallant resistance) it was taken and plunaered by
the French under Suchet.
To the N. of the Railway Station (PI. G, 4) lies a large open
space, on one side of which are the so-called Despenaperroa ('dog
precipices*), where numerous convicts may usually be seen at work.
Several streets lead hence to the N.E. to the Rahbla db Sax Juan
(PI. C, t), 2, 3), a wide, tree-shaded thoroughfare, with the principal
hotels, caf^s, and shops (comp. p. 231). At its S.E. end, opposite
the Paseo de Santa Clara (see below), is a large bronze statue of
Admiral Roger de Lauria (p. 227), by Felix Ferrer (1889). — A
little farther up is the Rambla de San Cablos (PI. D, £, 2), the
second street of the new town, containing the Teatro PrincipcU
(p. 231), the church of San Francisco (with high-altar in the form
of a Roman triumphal arch), the Infantry Barracks^ and the Oran Hotel
de Paris (p. 231). From the N.W. end of this street we have a fine
view of the attractive Campo de Tarragona and the mountains of the
Priorato (p. 182). At the S.E. end of the Rambla are the Parque de
Artilleriay or artillery arsenal, constructed almost wholly of Roman
remains, and the Torre de Carlos Quinto. These adjoin liie —
* Paseo de Santa Clara (PI. E, 3, 2), a promenade constructed
on the remains of the Roman walls (p. 236) and affording wide and
beautiful views of the sea, the harbour, and the coast. Below stretches
a dreary coast-plain, traversed by the road to Barcelona. Close to
the shore stands the Presidio (PI. E, 3), a large prison popularly
known as El Milayro ('the miracle'). Adjacent are the remains of
a Roman Amphitheatre,
Farther on in the Paseo de Santa Clara, to the left, rises the
Torre^n de Pilatos (PI. E, 2), another prison, rising over the found-
ations of the Roman walls. This building, supposed to be a part of
the former Palace of AugusttiSj was probably the seat of the Roman
Proconsul ; it was afterwards used as a fortress and largely destroyed.
To judge from the adjacent foundations, it was originally twice as
large as it is now. The name is due to the groundless belief that
l>ontius Pilate was a native of Tarraco. — In the Plaza del Rey, to
Caihedral, TARRAGONA. 37. Route, 233
.the N. of the Torjceon but not directly accessible from the Paseo
de Santa Clan, is a pretty fountain with the figure of a nymph.
At the end of the paseo, on the edge of the town-hill, here de-
scending abruptly to the S., is the Casa Provlneial de Bonefleencia
(PL F, 2), with its charming flower-garden, perhaps the loveliest
point in Tarragona. In front of the garden-gate stands La Cru% de
San Antonio, a richly carved Renaissance column, with reliefs. —
The waste ground to the E. affords a similar view, extending on the
S.W. to Cape Sal6u (p. 237).
We now turn to the N. and pass through the Puerta de San An-
tonto (PL F, 2) into the labyrinth of streets composing the old town.
By following the Calle de la Merced to the left and then the Calle
Plaza del Aceite and the Calle Nueva del Patriarca to the right, we
reach the Li«ano db la Catbdkal (PI. £, 1 ; vegetable-market in
the morning), which is also reached by a flight of 19 steps (two
modem fountains at the foot) from the Calle Mayor (p. 236). In this
plaza, to the right of the facade of the cathedral, is a house with a
fine ajimet window with four lights.
The * Cathedral (PI. E, 1), begun on the site of a mosque soon
after the expulsion of the Moors (1118), dates mainly from the end
of the 12th and the first half of the 13th cent., with additions of the
14-18th cent., and is one of the most brilliant examples of the late-
Bomauesque Transition style. A certain Frater Bertiardus (d. 1256)
is named as the ^magister operis', and he is very probably the actual
designer of the building. The total length of the church is about
320ft; the nave is 163 ft. long and 63 ft. wide; the aisles are
25 ft. in width. The chapels flanking the aisles were added in the
15-18th centuries. The transept is 160 ft. long and 50 ft. wide, with
.an octagonal cimborio above the crossing. The capilla mayor, 93 ft.
long, is flanked by two smaller apses. At the angle formed by the
apse and the S. transept rises a steeple (205 ft. high), the octagonal
part of which seems to date from the beginning of the 14th century.
No good general view is obtainable of the exterior of the cathe-
.dral with its numerous additions, the cloisters to the N.E., and the
old church of Santa Tecla (p. 236) to the S.E. Among the best-seen
portions are the S. transept and tiie N.W. lateral chapels with their
axulejo roofs. The ♦West Facade, built of a light-coloured stone to
which time has imparted a golden brown tone, was begun in 1278
but left unfinished in its upper part In the centre is a deep Gothic
portal, enclosed by massive buttresses and surmounted by a tympan-
um pierced with rich geometrical tracery, while over this is a large
rose-window, like those seen in the cathedrals of N. France. The
beautiful tracery and sculptures of the main portal are by Maestre
BoirtolowU (1282). The Utter include figures of the Virgin and Child,
Prophets and Apostles, and a relief of the Last Judgment. The
clumsy figures on the buttresses are a later addition hy Jaime CastayU
(1375). The iron-mounted doors, with their artistically executed
234 Route 21. TARRAGONA. Ctdkedral.
hinges, knockers, and coppei nails, were presented in 1610 by Arcbbp,
Oontalo de Heredia, To tlie right and left are two smaller Roman-
esque side-portals ; above that to the N. is a flue group of the Adora-
tion of the Magi (i3th cent.).
The Inteuob, except the side-chapels and the 14th cent, win-
dows of the nave, belongs to the iSth cent, and produces an effect
of great solemnity and majesty. The roof is borne by 14 mighty
piers, each about 85 ft. in circumference ; these are strengthened,
in harmony with the developed Romanesque style, by half-columns
with richly eculptured capitals, from which the arches spring.
The CoBO, made of marble and sandstone, dates from the 14th
century. At its W. side is an iron-mounted door, the keystone over
which is curiously sculptured. Adjacent is the tomb of King James I,
of Aragon {Jaime €l Conquistador; d. 1276), erected in 1866 to re-
place the ruined monument at Poblet (p. 238), the remains of which
have been used in the new work. Inside the core are two rows of
well-carved choir-stalls by Francisco Oomar of Saragossa (1478-93).
The bishop's throne is in the Renaissance style. The richly carved
organ is by Jaime Amig6 of Tortosa (1663). The £. end of the coro
is separated from the transept by an iron reja, to the right and left
of which are pulpits and old holy-water basins (beginning of the
13th cent.). — Against the outside of the N. wall of the coro is the
small Cafilla db Santo Sbfulcbo, with a sculptured Piet^ of 1494,
placed on a late-Roman sarcophagus.
The Sidb Ohapbls are shown by the sacristan for a fee of 1/2- 1 P*
The two first (right and left) were added in the Gothic style in the
16th cent., the others date from the 16-18th cent, and are in the
Renaissance and baroque styles. The Gaiilla de la Anunciacion
(2nd to the left) contains the fine Renaissance monument of Arehbp*
Luis de Cardona (d. 1631). In the Oafilla db la Oonobfcion (3rd
to the left) are the rich baroque tombs of Canon Didaeo Qir6n de
RoboUedo (d. 1682) and his brother Qodofredo. The 2nd chapel to
the right is the Baftistby, also called the Capilia de las Virgenes;
it contains an ancient marble sarcophagus or bath, now used as a font
The Cafilla db Santa Tbcla (3rd to the right), erected in 1760-76,
contains the relics of the tutelary saint of Tarragona, on whose day
(Sept. 23rd) the cathedral is hung with 52 pieces of Flemish tapestry
(tapfces) of the 17th century. In the Cafilla db Santa Lucia (6th
to the right) is a relief of Christ in the Temple (16th cent.).
The Transbft, with its octagonal lantern and large rose-win-
dows, produces an effect of great space and light. The magnificent
stained glass in the rose-windows was executed by Juan Guas in
1574 ; that in the N. window has been in part restored. The chan-
deliers are modern. — The N. arm of the transept is adjoined by
the Cafilla del Santisimo Sagbamento , erected under Archbp.
Antonio Agustin (d. 1586) in the Renaissance style; the columns
"^re said to have been brought from the Forum Roman um.
.Cathedral. TARRAaONA. 2/. Route. 235
The CAPiifLA Matob, with it& small windows and semicircnlar
teimination, and tlie two small apses to its right and left, are the
oldest parts of the building. The Gothic retablo is adorned with
good statues of the Virgin and Child and of SS. Thecla and Paul,
and also with most minutely executed reliefs by Pedro Juan de
Tamtgona and OuUlon de Mota (1426-34), representing scenes from
the lives of Christ and St. Thecla. Behind the high-altar is an an-
cient window, with three Byzantine columns and a sarcophagus, said
to contain the bones of Archbp. Cyprian (d. 688). — To the right
of the high-altar is the marble monument of ArMp, Juan de Ara-
9(m(d. 1334). The beautiful marble pavement deserves attention.
In the 8. (right) lateral apse is the entrance to the Campanario, or
tower, which may be ascended (199 steps) for the sake of the view. The
topmost bell is known as *Copona\
From the N.E. part of the church, adjoining the N. transept, we
enter the ♦♦Cloistbbs, which date mainly from the first half of the
13th cent, and are among the most beautiful in Spain. Their un-
usual position, to the 14. £. of the church, is doubtless due to such
special reasons as the nature of the site and the presence of older
buildings on the S. side. The cloisters of Chester Cathedral lie to
the N. of the church for similar reasons.
The beautiful ^Portal, which was originally an open archway without
a door, has finely carved engaged shafts on each jamb and is divided into
parts by a central column. On the capital of this central shaft are carved
the Nativity , the Journey of the Magi , and the Adoration of the Huly
Child. In the tympanum is the Saviour in an aureole, surrounded by the
symbols of the Evangelists.
The Clozstebs themselves are about 150 ft. square. The central garth
is filled with oleanders and other evergreens, contrasting delightfully with
the masonry of the buildings. The surrounding walks are roofed with
quadripartite groining, supported, on the side next the court, by engaged
shafts placed against the piers. Each bay has three round arches divided
by coupled shafts: above are two circular openings. Some of the latter
still retain their Moresque tracery, which casts most picturesque shadows
on ihe beautiful flooring. The capitals of the columns are adorned with
motives drawn from the animal or vegetable world. Some of these are
of a humorous character; one represents a company of rats carrying a cat
on a bier, which, however, suddenly revives from its counterfeited death
and springs upon its would-be grave-diggers (abacus of third column to
the right of the doorway from the cathedral). — In the S.E. corner of
the cloisters is the entrance to the old Chafteb House, now the Capilla
de Corpore Chrigti, with statues of the Virgin and twelve saints (15th cent.).
Adjacent, to the left, are the Archives and the new Aula CapiitUar. — The
Capiila de Santa Maria Magdakna, to the right of the chapter-house, con-
tains a good altar-piece of the 15th century. — On the W. wall, between
the side-entrance to the Capilla del Santisimo Sacramento (p. 234) and the
portal leading to the Calle de las Carnicerias del Gabildo (see below), is a
small Moorish window, said to be a prayer-niche or mlhrS,b (?) \ the Cufic
inscription shows that it dates from the year of the Hegira847 (.958 A.D.).
Adjacent are Roman and medieeval fragments, gravestones, and the like.
We now ascend through the Calle de las Camicerfas delCabildo,
in the lower part of which, to the right (No. 6), are immured two
stones with Roman inscriptions and one with an Arabic inscription.
The Calle ends at the Plaza del Palacio and the Falacio Arzobispal
236 BouU2L TARRAGONA. Mus, Arqueohgieo,.
rarohlepiscopal palace; Pi. E, 1), a building of the beginning of tlie
19th cent., 'with an old fortified tower (not al'ways accessible). It
stands on the highest point in Tarragona, on the site of the old Bo-
man citadel, and commands a beaotiful view. In the walls of the
court are immured a few Roman tombstones, among others that
(No. 4) of a young charioteer (auriga), of whom the metrical inscrip-
tion reports that he would rather have died in the circus than offerer.
From the Plaza del Palacio we now proceed to the £. through
the Galle de San ]?ablo. Here, to the left, is the large Sbminabio
GoNCiLiAB (PI. F, 1), or priests* seminary, built in 1885. Its court
contains (left) the CapiUa de San Pablo, built in the Transition style
at the beginning of the 13th century. — To the right, at the comer
of the Galle de Yilamitjana, stands the small church of Santa Teela^
built in the 12th cent, and the original cathedral of Tarragona.
Passing it, we return along the Galle de Yilamitjana to the Llano de
la Gatedral (p. 233).
Opposite the W. facade of the cathedral the Galle Mayor (p. 233)
and the Bajada de la Misericordia descend rapidly to the Plaza de
LA FuBNTE (PI. D, 2), or PUiTa de la Constitucidn j the shape of
which indicates that it is the successor of the Roman circus. In front
of the house No. 43 is an Old Roman Well, 160 ft. deep, which may
be descended on application at the Museo Provincial.
At the N. end of the plaza stands the Casa ConsUtorial, contain-
ing the Museo Arqu6ol6gico Froyinoial (PI. D, 1, 2), an interest-
ing collection of ancient and mediaeval objects. The museum is open
on week-days, 9-1 and 2.30-5 (conserje 1/2"! P* ; catalogue 2 p.).
Entrance by the last door to the right.
Entkanck Boom. Fragments of columns, capitals, sarcophagi, and
other Roman objects found in Tarragona, including a mill (mola). — Haim
Boom (left). Negro boy as bearer of a bronze lamp } torso of the godde«s
Pomona \ torso of a young Roman patrician ^ statuette of Juno ; torso of
Venus: Roman mosaics with the head of Medusa, etc.; marble 'Torso of
a youthful Bacchus, with soft and beautiful forms*, antique busts of the
Emperors Hadrian, Trajan, Marcus Aurelius, and L. Aurelius Verus •, am-
phorsB*, weapons J model of the above-mentioned old Roman well. Parch-
ment roll with miniature portraits of the Counts of Barcelona and Kings
of Aragon down to Martin I. the Humane (d. 1410). Collection of coins,
with valuable Phoenician, Iberian, and ancient Roman specimens. — Room
OPPOSITE THE Entrance. Recumbent effigy of the Conde de Santa Ooloma ;
part of the old tomb of King James I. (p-234); azulejos from Poblet (p. 238).
From the Casa Consistorial a number of narrow streets lead to the
N.E. to the Fuerta del Bosario (PI. D, 1). A little farther on, in the
Bajada del Rosario, are the imposing remains of some prehistoric
* Cyclopean WalUy such as are scarcely paralleled in any other part
• of Spain. They consist of enormous unhewn blocks, which served as
foundations for the Roman walls. The small doorway of the pre-
Roman citadel is also visible. — The view outside the Puerta del
Rosario is magnificent. The road beginning here skirts the N. side
'^f the town, with its walls and towers, and then leads past the wa-
- conduit (left) to the Gementerio, the Alto del Olive, and the
Harbour. TARRAGONA. 2i. /Joule. 237
Roman Aqueduct (see below). The footpaths running to the £. from
this road also afford a series of charming yiews.
The lower part of the new town, to the W. of the Rambla de
San Juan (p. 232), is uninteresting. An interesting walk may,
however^ be taken through the Barrio de Peseadorea , or seamen's
quarter, to the W. (beyond Pi. A, 3), most of the houses in which
are coloured light-blue.
The Harbour (Puerto; PI. A, B, 4) is sheltered on the S.E. by
the MuelU de Levante, a mole 1400 yds. long, with a lighthouse at
the end of it. This was originally constructed by Amau Boncha in
1491, partly with the fragments of the Roman Amphitheatre (p. 232),
but since then it has been greatly enlarged. It commands the finest
view of the town and the mountains of the Priorato; and it always
.affords an attractive promenade, particularly when the K. wiikd hurls
the waves against its seaward face. — Tlie old Roman mole, known
to skippers as the Mitjorn, has disappeared during the recent har-
bour works. It was composed of chests (arks) filled with stones and
piled one above another. The harbour used by the Moors lay where
the lowest part of'the new town to the W. now is.
Ezcunioiis. The most intere.^tint: is that to the Old Roman Aqueduct
r>n the road to Valls (p. 227). The distance is about 2^^ M. The charge
for a carriage and pair is about 10 p.-, or the Valls diligence (twice or
thjriee daily) may be used in going. — The road leaves the town by the
Pnerta del Kosario (p. 236), touches the Cem^erio with its beautiful cy-
profi.ses, and then (lU min.) pas-^es the Alto del Olivo, a ruined fort com-
manding; a noble view (evening;- light best), llie ''Koman Aqnednot,
popularly known as the Aeuedueio de Uu Ferreras or /\mt dd DiabUs is one
of the mi'ft imposing monuments of the Roman period in Spain. It was
built, perhaps about the beginning of the imperial epoch, to bring the
water of the diftant Gayi (p. 227) to Tarragona through one of the side
valleys of the FrancoH. The structure consists of two tiers, the lower
with 11, the upper with 26 archea. The length of the lower tier is 240 ft.,
its height 43 ft. s the upper is 712 ft. long and 109 ft. high. The whole
length of the aqueduct, which was restored to use in 1781-1800, is about
22 H. ; part of it is subterranean.
Other excursions may be made to the Roman Triumphal Ardi at Torre-
tlembarri (p. 2^0); to the so-called Tomb of Ute Sdpiog (see p. 230) j to
Montbianch and FMet (see p. 238).
22. From Tarragona to L6rida vid Bins.
64 M. Railway (two through-trains daily) in 3»/4 hrs. (fires 11 p. 85,
8 p. 90, 6 p. 65 c). There are no refreshment rooms on the way. — On
the whole this line is uninteresting.
Tarragona, see p. 231. < — The railway skirts the harbour and the
fishermen's suburb and runs nearly parallel with the old road and
the line to Tortosa. It traverses the fertile plain of Tarragona and
crosses the Franeolf (the Tulcia of the Romans) and the Boetla. —
5V2 M. ViloHca, near theCabo Salou (S.E.) and the station of 8aU5u,
on the railway to Tortosa (p. 238). Our line turns to the N.W.
At (10 M.) Belli (p. 228) our line crosses the railway from Bar-
celona to Saragossa (RR. 19, 14).
238 Route 22, POBLET.
We now run towards the N.W., at first skirting the range of hills
that bounds the valley of the Francolf on the W. and then following
the river itself. — 141/2 M. Selva; 18 M. Aleaver; 21 1/2 M. Plana-
Picamoixofu, the junction of the branch-line to Roda de Bard (and
Bareelonay, 23 M. La Bioa; 241/2 M. VUavert.
27 V2 ^* Montblaneh^ a small town of 4700 inhab. in the valley
of the Francolf, with old walls, gates, and towers.
About 6 M. to the N.W. of M ontblaDCh, in a valley of the Sierra de Pradei
opening near Espluga de Francoli (soe below), lies tbe famous Cistercian
abbey of *Poblet, surnamed El Sartto, after St. Poblet, to whom the Moors
granted the whole district of the Hardeta. Bamcn Berenguer IV. built the
convent, which became the burial-place of the Kings of Aragon and aftorwurds
of the Counts of Segorbe and Cardona. The Romanesque church, with its
domed tower, the beautiful cloisters, and the chapter-house (14th cent.)
were plundered and partly destroyed in 1822-35. The royal monuments
also suffered, and that of Jaime I. has been removed to Tarragona (p. 234),
The existing remains are, however, very imposing and deserve a visit.
The sadly mutilated retablo mayor is a magnificent piece of Renais-
sance carving, perhaps by Berruguete. Philip, Duke of Wharton, *that
strangest meteor of the eighteenth century% died at Poblet in 1731.
We continue to ascend the Francolf valley to the N.W. — 31 M.
Espluga del Francolf^ 3 M. from Poblet and the best starting-point
for a visit to the convent on foot. — The railway now leaves the
river and begins to climb the Sieirra de Prades. 34 M. Viirhodfy on
the E. slope of the sierra. The highest point reached by the line
is 3316 ft. above the sea. We then descend on the W. into the pro-
vince of Urida, — Beyond (391/2 M.) Vinaixa lies a hilly district
named the CoU del Orano de Vinaixa, 46 M. Moresta. We cross the
Brugent. — 48I/2 M. Borjds, situated in the lilano de Urgel on the
bank of the Canal de Vrgd. 521/2 M. Juneda; 57 M. Puigvert-Artesa,
UM. Linda, see p. 216.
23. From Tarragona to Tortosa (Valencia).^
52Vs M. Railway (three trains daily) in 2Vs-6 hrs. •, fares 8 p. 70, 5 p. 60,
4 p. 15 c. (to Valencia, 171 M., tw o through-trains daily in ^A hrs.). —
The journey is interesting, though some deiolate tracts are traversed.
Best views to the left. — Railway-restaurants at Tarragona and Toriotft,
Tarragona, see p. 231. — For a time the line runs parallel with
that to Li^rida (R. 22), affording good views to the right of the fer-
tile Oampo de Tarragona and the Priorato Mts. (p. 182), and to the
left of the sea and promontory of Sal6u, the N. side of which we skirt.
8 M. 8(d6u, the port of Reus (p. 228) and a rival of Tarragona.
A little to the N. lies VUaseca (p. 237). On the top of the cape is
a watch-tower (atcUaya), Farther on we traverse a fertile district,
with palms, carob-trees, nut-trees, and almond-trees. Two dry ramb-
las are crossed.
12 M. Carhbriis. The church has a lofty fortress-like tower, with
a battlemented passage-way supported on brackets. — The lovely
plain is watered by the Riudecanes, The mountains draw near the
coast. To the left is an old telegraph-station ^ farther on, dose to
AMPOSTA. 23. Routt. 239
the Mt, are some picturesque ndns. — Suddenly the scene changes,
uid we enter a treeless district overgrown with low palmetto-scrub
(p, 227). The loose stones are here and there piled up into walls to
enclose small patches of tilled land. No signs |of life are visible,
eicept a few cottages on the hills. At the end of this waste (^deapo^
hlado') lies —
2OV2H. Haspitalet, iriili sn old hospital for pilgrims, the four
towers of which are seen to the left, near the sea. — Cultivation is
stfll scant. The arid limestone soil produces little but lavender,
thyme, dwarf-palms, junipers, and heath; and even these plants are
disflgured by the teeth of the omnivorous goat To the right stretches
a chain of barren hills, vrith the CasUllo de Balagver. To the left
shimmers the white sand of the sea-shore. The oven-like huts of the
shepherds recall the Orient — The railway crosses several ramblas,
enclosed by low green shrubs and serving as roads.
8OV2 M. Aimellaj a fishing-village to the left, with seyeral nMat
(water-wheels). We traverse another desolate region, with scanty
patches of cultivated soil, and intersect some hills. To the W. is the
CaUiUo dt Pcrelld; in front is the DtUa of the Ebro^ projecting on
the left far into the sea and outlined by a strip of white beach.
Beyond it, to the S., rises the MorUsia (p. 246).
441/2 M. Ampolla, beautifully situated on the Oolfo de San Jcrge^
which here contracts to form the Puerto del Fangal. A wide view is
obtained of the Maremma-like delta of the Ebro, vdth its innumerable
canals and ponds. To the £. is the Lighthoute of Fangal and to the
S.E. the lofty lighthouse on the Cabo de Tortosa^ about 16 M.. from
Amposta. — The train runs to the S.E., skirting the margin of the
delta and traversing beautiful groves of olives. The underlying rook
often crops out through the thin layer of mould. To the left stands
a church, with a square, castle-like tower.
46^2 M- -Amposta, the station for the small town of that name
(2100 inhab.), which lies about 3 M. to the S.W., on the right bank
of the Ebro and near the beginning of its delta. The river is not
yet -visible from the railway.
In order to avoid the sand-banks of the Ebro, a canal has been con*
strncted from Amposta to the port of Scm Carlos de la Rapita, on the
excellent Puerto de loa Affaqve* (*sand -banks'). The river forks and reaches
the sea through two channels, the Gola del Norte and the Gola del Swy
which enclose the island of Buda.
The train now turns to the N.W. and ascends the valley of the
Ebro. The soil here is stony and thin, but wonders have been worked
by artificial irrigation and careful tillage. Beyond a cutting we obtain
a grand view of the Monte Caro (2820 ft.) and other mountains to
the W. of Tortosa, at the base of which is spread a wide plain with
nSrias (water-wheels), palms, and olive-groves. The rapid Ebro
itself also comes into view.
62 V2 M. TortOEa (Fonda de Europe; Rail. Restaurant), a con-
sideiable town, with 12,500 inhab., lies on the Ebro, which he"
240 Roule 23. TORTOSA.
emerges from its mountain-fastnesses and enters the beaatiful Gam-
pifia. Its situation, on the hills to the £. of the Ebro, which are
riven by the deep Barraneo ddRtuUrOy is rarely equalled, and it com-
mands magnificent views of the valley, the mountains, and the
distant sea. The cathedral is its only important sight.
Under ttie Romans the town was named JuUa Augmuta Dertosa and
enjoyed the right of coinage. As the key of the Ebro^ it was long an
object of contention between the Moors and the Christians. Louis the
Pioas, son of Charlemagne, besieged it in vain in 809 and captured it in
811. The Moors soon recaptured it and made it a haunt of pirates.* A
special crusade was proclaimed against it bv Pope Eugenius III., and
Tortosa was finally taken from the Moors in 1148 by Ramon Berenguer IV.,
aided by Knights Templar, Pisans, and Genoese. In the following year the
Moors returned to the attack and were beaten off only by the heroism of
the women. In return Ramon Berenguer invested the women with the
red sash of the order of La Hacha (axe) and permitted them henceforth to
import their clothes free of duty and to precede the men at marriages.
The Cathbdbal was originally built in 1168-78 by Bishop Gau-
fredo on the site of a mosque erected by 'Abderrahman III. in 914.
In its present Gothic form it dates from 1347, but the exterior has
been grievously marred by baroque additions. The fine choir-stalls
are by OrUiSbal de Salamanea (1588-93). The reja and the pulpits
also deserve attention. The sacristy contains a Cuflc inscription
relating to the building of the mosque and also a Moorish helmet.
In the Capilla de Santa Gandia are the tombs of the first four bishops
(1165-1254). The so-called Aimudm<z, or tower, is of Arab origin.
The Chapter Library possesses about 350 MSS.
A visit may also be paid to the Renaissance Colegio and (for the
superb view) to the ruined CaMillo. — The Alameda, to the S. of the
railway-station, affords a good view of the town.
From Tortosa to Valencia, see R. 24.
IV. VALENCIA AND MURCIA.
24. From Tortosa (Tarragona) to Valencia 246
From Vinaroz to Aleanis tU MoreUa. Peniscola, 316. —
Canal de CMtelldn, 247. — Sagunto, 248. — From Sagunto
to Segorb« and Teruel) %i. •
25. Valencia 252
Ezcnrsionf from Valencia: 1. E] Grao. 2. Albufera, 265.
— 3. Hanisea, 266. —4. Meliana. 6. Burjasot and Cartuja
de PortacoBli, 267.
26. From Valencia to Carcagente and La Enclna (Madrid,
Cordova, Alicante, Mnicia) 267
From Silla to Cvll^ra, 268.
27. From Carcagente (Valencia) to Gandia and Dtfnia . . 271
From Puerto de Gandia to Aleoy, 272. — The Mongo. From
D^nia to Jdvea, 273.
28. From Jitiva to Alcoy and Alicante 274
29. From Madrid to Alicante vil Alcizar, Chinchilla, and
I^Encina 276
From Aranjnez to Cuenca. From Castillejo to Toledo. La
Hancha, 276. — From Villena to Yecla; to Bocairente
(Alcoy), 279.
BO. From Alicante to Mnrcia via Elche and Alqueria . . 282
From Albatera-Catral to Torrevi^a, 283.
31. From Chinchilla (Madrid) to Murcia and Cartagena. . 284
Banos de Archena, 2c6. — Mar Menor, 290. — From
Cartagena to La Union, 292.
Valencia.
The kingdom of Valencia (el reino de Valencia)^ embracing the
three modem provinces of Caatellon de la Plana, Valencia^ and Ali-
ynte^ covers an area of 883B sq. M. and contains 1,229,400 inhab-
itants. It is essentially a coast-district, lying between the central
Spanish plateau and the Mediterranean and extending from the
Ebro on the N. to the Segnra on the S. The narrow littoral plains,
watered by the Cenia, MijareSf Falancia, Chiadalaviar (Turia),
'f^itar, Vinaiapd, and Segu/ra, were originally under salt-water and
became dry land through processes of upheaval and deposits. The
Albufera (fresh water), to the S.E. of Valencia, and a few small
^^goons and ponds are the sole relics of this tract of sea.
The inner and mountainous parts of the kingdom are generally
^Sged, weatherworn, and destitute of trees or water. There are,
however, a few valleys, like that of Segorbe, which form oases of
cultivation and contain a few settlements. As the rivers emerge
ttpon the plains, they are at once taken possession of, drawn off into
oanalg, and led over the country in thousands of small channels t'^
Babdxkbr'b Spain. 16
242 VALENCIA.
irrigate fields and gardens or to drive mills and factories. In spring
the water of many rivers is collected in large Pantanoty or reservoirs,
formed by huge transverse dams, and is thus saved for use in the
parched months of summer. As in almost the whole of £. and S.
Spain, this artificial irrigation is rewarded by crops of exuberant
fertility. The difference between irrigated and non-irrigated tracts
is almost like that between oasis and desert The Valenclan, indeed,
prefers rain to artificial irrigation (agua del cielo el mejor riego^ 'the
water of heaven is th6 best irrigation'), for he, like the Roman be-
fore hiin, knows that the quality of fruit and vegetables suffers
under a wholly artificial system of watering. Not only, however,
does the rain fall here in small quantity (oomp. p. xxxi), but what
does fall is limited to a few days. A heavy fall of rain or a sudden
melting of the mountain-snows is too apt to be followed by a huge
'spate' (avenida)j which rushes down towards the valley, devastating
the banks of the river in its course and tinging the sea at its mouth
with a muddy yellow hue that vanishes almost as rapidly as it appears.
The greater part of 'the ^Buertas' is devoted to the growing of
grain, while rice is raised on the flat banks of the Albufera and the
Jucar. The immense fields of wheat, broken here and there by
small groves of almond, apricot, mulberry, or carob trees, present a
somewhat monotonous picture, differing considerably from the usual
highly coloured descriptions of the Huerta of Valencia. Even the
orange-groves, with their stiff rows of trees, can hardly be. called
particularly attractive except where, as at Alcira and Carcagente,
they rise in terraces one above another and are neighboured by a
grove of palms.
The density of population in the Huerta of Valencia necessitates
an intensive system of agriculture, rendered possible only by the
application of guano and other strong fertilizers. The rotation of
crops includes the ordinary cereals, vegetables, and foddei-plants.
Of lucerne (alfalfa) the skilful husbandman may reap 14-17 crops
in a single year. The wheat sown near the Albufera in November
is ready for cutting in June. The soil Is then broken up, planted
with rice, and inundated. After the rice is garnered, root or green
crops are sown.
Valencia a terra de JHos Valencia is a land of God,
Pw$ oftr trigo y hoi arroz. Rice grows to day where yesterday was corn.
In winter, ftom the middle of December to the middle of Feb-
ruary, large tracts are white as snow with the delicate blossoms of
the Bellis Annua (annual daisy). Later, all is brilliant with the glow-
ing red of the Adonis Cupaniana, a member of the order of Ranun-
culacesB. The famous oranges (naranjoa) of Valencia are ready for
export in March. Othet notable products are the stemless raisins
(pasas de Valencia), the wines of Alicante, and the palms of Elche.
The Mantjpacutjbes of Valencia are of little importance. Its
textile fabrics were once celebrated, but have long been unable to
VALENCIA. 243
fompete with the silks of France and the woollens of Saxony. The
making of paper, mainly for cigarettes, flourishes at Alcoy. Excel-
lent azulejos (tiles) are made at ManiseB (p. 266) and mosaics at
Meliana (p. 267). The fans and'gloYCfl of Valencia are popular
throughout Spain.
The Inhabitants of Valencia show a prevailing Moorish type
and are seldom handsome. They are animated in manner and at
once good-natured and revengeful in disposition. To their Moor-
ish forefathers they owe their industrious hahits and their skill
in irrigation. Its neighhours say of Valencia, with some malioe and
much exaggeration, that la came es yer&a, la yerba agua, el Kombre
mujer^ la mtfjer nada, and they name it un parabo habitado por de-
mdnio9. The language is the Limousin dialect in a somewhat softer
form than in Catalonia (p. 186). The native dress, becoming daily
more rare, consists of hempen sandals (eapardenoi), gaiters, wide
linen drawers (tahrahuelU), red sashes (fajaa), a short velvet jacket
(ehaleeo), and a head-cloth (redeeilla) somewhat recalling the Arab
turban. The women generally wear the so-called *wheel-plns^
(aulla de rodete) in their hair, sometimes a high comh (pkUela) or
the three-cornered pieza or lliue.
Valencia bears distinct traces of its successive occupation by
Iberians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Visigoths, and Arabs.
The Moors overran it in 712. The Cid (p. 26) reconquered it in
1095, but it reverted to the Moors after his death (1099). When
James I. of Aragon conquered Valencia in 1238, the population
consisted partly of full-blooded Moors and partly of the mixed race
of so-called Motarab Christians, who had adopted Arab customs and
the Arabic language to such a degree, that even the Bible had to be
translated into Arabic for their use. In 1319 Valencia was per-
manently united with Aragon. In 1609 no fewer than 200,000
Moriteoes, or Moors who nominally professed Christianity, were
driven from the country. The kingdom suffered considerably in the
War of the Spanish Succession, in which it stood on the side of the
Hapsburgs. In 1812 Suchet captured Sagunto, the *Key of Valencia*,
and occupied the country and its capital.
Murcia.
When Spain was divided into its modem provinces (1833), the
kingdom of Murcia had to cede parts of its S.W. territory to Almeria
and part of its N.E. territory to Alicante, so that it now consists
solely of the provinces of Murcia and AlbaeeUj with an area of
10,190 sq. M. and a population of 720,500. Its coast-line extends
from the Torre de la Boradada (Hower of the pierced'), to the N. of
the Mar Menor, to a point beyond the seaport of Aguilas. Prom the
latter point its W. boundary runs to the N.W. and N. by the Cabeza
16*
244 MUROIA.
de la J ma and the Mxula de Montteviche (4920 ft.) to the Sagra Sierra
(ca. 7870 ft.) and onwards into the central Spanish plateau, to which
the whole of the piovince of Albacete belongs.
Muicia possesses only one important river, the Sfgiira, which,
with its large tributary the Mundo, descends from the Sierra de Air-
eard%, the Color del Mvndoj and the Sagra Sierra. The 'reino sere-
ni8imo\ the brightest bat at the same time one of the hottest regions
in £urope, owes the scantiness of its water-supply to its situation
in the S.E. comer of the Iberian peninsula, where it is swept, not
like the neighbouring Andalusia , by the moist W. wind from the
Atlantic, but by the parching breatiti of the Sahara, scarcely alle-
viated by its short passage over the Mediterranean. The Leveche
(the Etjurua of the ancients), a S. wind resembling the scirocco,
sometimes covers the entire vegetable world with a thick coat of
dust within a few minutes. Men and animals overtaken by it sink
exhausted to the ground, and birds often fall dead from the sky.
The purity of the summer-air is defiled by clouds of dust The Calina,
a kind of heat -haze, gradually steals over the whole face of the
heavens. Towards the middle of July the horizon is girdled with a
narrow strip of a bluish-red or brownish colour, which waxes as the
heat increases. In August the upper part of the firmament also as-
sumes a leaden-gray hue, across which the light of the stars glimmers
feebly. The rising sun and moon shine red through this haze ; moun-
tains, trees, and buildings loom through it like spectres. Not till to-
wards the close of September does the calina disappear.
The abnormal climate (comp. also p. 2S7) explains the other
remarkable phenomena of this strange land. Among these are the
treeless mountains, from which no water descends to the lowlands ;
the sudden avenidas (p. 242) or floods, occasioned by heavy falls of
rain at the sources of the rivers ; and the extensive despohlados^ or
deserts of hill, moor, and salt-marsh, where nothing grows except
esparto grass and saltwort. The few evergreen plants are used by
the inhabitants as fuel, the only alternative being the dried dung of
the domestic animals.
The bulk of the country is occupied by the despoblados. Along
with them may be mentioned the so-called Secanos, or 'dry lands',
where the want of rain in March, the ^key of the year', often destroys
the entire harvest. The February rains are too early; those of April
find the sprouting grain already dried up and the vines scorched.
The whole agricultural wealth of the country is concentrated in
the Tierraa de Regadio^ or irrigated districts. It is in the huertas of
Murcia, Totana, and Lorca alone that the capacity of the soil of S.
Spain can be fully appreciated. While the plateau of Albacete pro-
duces little but grain, wine, and olives, the beautiful huerta of Murcia
is clothed with a forest of orange- trees, lemon-trees, and date-palms.
The valley of the Segura is also the chief centre for the culture of
''owers and vegetables.
MURCIA. 245
Equally important sources of wealth are mining and the- making
of salt and soda (from the Hcdogeton sativus). The almost inexhaust-
ible stores of lead and silver were already exploited by the Phosni-
cians, Carthaginians, and Romans. The export of these metals forms
a large part of the trade of Cartagena and is practically the only
raison d'Hre of Forman^ Mazarron^ AffuilaSj and the other small
harbours on this difficult coast. A large part of the mountains are
absolutely honeycombed by mines, and the modem minero is con-
stantly stumbling on the round shafts of the PhoBuicians and the
square shafts of the Moors. The Romans called the adits cmiieuli ;
the Iberians called them arrugia^ and the shafts agangas or agoga9.
In spite of the imperfeot methods of ancient mining, the yield of
the mines was so great as to give rise to the story that the Phoeni-
cians made their anchors of silver, when the ships were so heavily
loaded as to be unable to take any more cargo on board.
Resembling N. Africa in climate, vegetation, and the general
conditions of existence, Murcia has been from time immemorial a
favourite goal of Oriental immigration ; and its present population,
itt spite of the expulsion of the Moris coes (p. 243), still bears a
thoroughly African stamp. The industry of the whilom Moorish im-
migrants U attested by their wonderful feats of hydraulic engineer-
ing, among which may be mentioned the canal, long since disused,
that collected the' waters of the mountain -torrents of the Sagra
Sierra and conveyed them to the Sangonera and to Lorca. The suc-
cessors of those praiseworthy labourers offer a much less satisfactory
picture. Sunk in Oriental indolence, they seem to care for nothing
except sleep, the eating of pimienta (Spanish pepper; capsicum
annuum)j and smoking, while they have, moreover, the reputation
of being fierce and cruel. Murcia is the Spanish Bceotia and lags
behind the other provinces of the peninsula. Hence its neighbours
say of it that Adam, on his return to earth, found here his old home
in unchanged condition, and that while the sky and the soil are
good, all that lies between is evil (el cieh y suelo es buenOj el enire-
9uelo malo).
24. From Tortosa (Tarragona) to Valencia,
119 M. Railway (two tbrough-lrains daily) in 6-6V2 liM. (fares 19 p.
90, 12p. 70, 9 p. 40 c). There is also a local train between CatUilon
(P* 347) and Valencia. There are railway-restaurants at Tortosa^ Cattellon^
SaguntOf and Valencia; and cakes, oranges, and hard-boiled eggs are often
offered for sale at other stations. In March the oranges are sold in clusters
(I'amiiietes)^ still attached to the branch on which they grew.
Tortosaf see p. 239. — The train leaves the charming Alameda
to the left and crosses the Ebro by a lofty iron bridge. Fine views
in all directions. We then traverse a fertile tract between Monte
Salio on the left and the huge Monte Caro on the right. Beyond the
OarameUa we pass through dense groves of olives, — 9 M, 8ant'
246 Route 24. PENISCOLA. From Tortosa
Barbara. The Valeucian type of costume may be seen here. Farther
on the scenery becomes monotonous and the culture sparse.
18 M. Uldeconaj the last Catalan town, at the W. foot of the
MorUsia (2500 ft), has 5400 inhab. and a picturesque octagonal
tower. — The train crosses the Ctnid and enters Valencia. To the
right is the square tower of a castle. The Mediterranean becomes
visible to the left, and we obtain a last view (right) of the mountain
chain of Tortosa. We cross the rambta of the Cerbol.
27 V2 M. Vinair^t, the first place in the province of CasUUdn de
la Flanay is a fishing and farming town with 9400 inhab. and a
few manufactories. The soil is irrigated mainly by water-wheels.
About 93 H. to the X.W. of Vinardz, high up among the mountains
and perched on a conical hill rising in the midst of a mountain-basin,
is Horella, an old fortress protecting the frontiers of Valencia against
Aragon. It is the Roman Ccutra uElia and now contains 3600 inhabitants.
In the First Garlist War it played a part of some importance, having
been stormed by Cabrera in 183i8 and recaptured by Espartero in 1840.
The most interesting buildings are the 'Torre de Zeloquia and the Gothic
church of Santa Maria la Mayor. The latter, dating from 1317, has its choir
raised upon pillars and arches, to which the clergy ascend by a winding
staircase. In the choir is a picture by Bibalta, representing James I. with
a piece of the True Cross. Every sixth year, on the first Sat. in May,
the festival of the 'Virgen de Vallibona' is celebrated by a great proces-
sion to her ermita. — From Morella a road leads to (52 M.) Alcafiit (p. 181).
The railway follows the coast-plain and crosses the Rio Seco (or
Ccdig). — 31 M. BenieaHd, a town of 7900 inhab., the red wine of
which is largely exported to Bordeaux. The handsome church has
an octangular tower and a cupola covered with dark-blue azulejos,
such as the visitor to Valencia will soon become familiar with. There
is also an old castle here. — Farther on we have a view, to the left,
of Pefiiscolaj which is about 41/2 M. by road from Beuicarl6.
PefiigcoU, the ^Gibraltar of Valencia', is a small fortified town (2800
inhab.), situated on a rocky islet, 220 ft. high and connected with the
mainland by a narrow sandy isthmus. James I., who took the fortress
from the Moors in 1233, presented it to the Knights Templar; it after-
wards came into the hands of the Order of Montesa (p. 270), and in 1429
it reverted to the crown. The French captured it in 1811. Pope Bene-
dict XIII. (p. 170), after the Council of Constance had declared him schis-
matic, took refuge here (1415-23)^ and a curious cave in the rock, with a
second opening through which the sea-water is expelled in clouds of foam,
is named after him El Bu/addr de Papa Luna.
The railway now leaves the coast and ascends a valley between
the Monies de Irta on the E. and the Atalayas de Alcald on the W.
The hills, which are of calcareous formation, are barren and un-
attractive. Here and there they bear a tower or a castle. Farther on
the valley turns to the S. and the scenery improves.
45 M. Alcald de CfUsbert^ with a fine open-work church-tower. —
The railway descends rapidly. To the left, beyond a curve, we sud-
denly obtain a fine view of the sea. In the distance, to the right,
appear some of the so-called Muelas ('molars', 'mill-stones'), a
peculiar kind of rocky hill characteristic of this coast. The most
prominent is the Pena Oolosa (p. 247), easily recognisable by
to Valencia. CASTELLON DE LA PLANA. 24. -Route. 247
its yertioal S. face. On regaining the coast-plain, we cross the
Segarra, The Mediterranean once more stretches to the left.
54^2 M. TorrebUmca is prettily situated 1-2 M. from the sea,
and contains tower-like houses. To the left are the marshy E$tanqiie
dt AlbaUU, the Torre la 8aly and (farther on) the cape and village of
Oropesa. — Beyond Torrehlanca we reach the orange-growing dis-
trict. To the right is the hilly Desietto dc las Palmas. We penetrate
a tunnel and several deep cuttings. To the S. are the mountains of
Yalencia, extending to the Mong6. The railway skirts the hills.
68 M. BenkoBfrn^ in a charming situation. The sea is fully
V2 M. distant, but the hills rise close by to the W. and shut in the
peaceful little place with its orange-groves and palms. The hand-
some church, with its tiled cupola, contains some good paintings by
CamariSn, — The railway continues to skirt the hills. The soil
becomes more and more fertile. Fine retrospect of Beuicasfm.
77 M. Caitell^n de la Plana (Fonda de Espana, Fonda del Fer-
rocarrily both indifferent; Rail. Restaurant), the capital of a pro-
vince, with 24,300 inhab., lies about 4 M. from the sea, in a wqH
watered plain, near the mouth of the valley of Luceua. The town
coijtains a theatre, a bull-ring, aud an interesting bell-tower (Torre
de las Campanas), 150 ft. high. The Parish Church contains an As-
sumption by the Italian painter Carlo Maratta, and a work by Ri-
hatta, who waa born here in 1561. — Gastellon has the affix ^of the
plain', because the old town lay on the hill, 1^2'^ ^^ ^o the N., and
James I. transferred it to its present site in 1251. Near the old
town lies the ErrrUta de Santa Maria Magdalena, to which a proces-
sion is made on the third Sun. in Lent. — Gastellon is a good start-
iug-point for excursions in the Sierra de Espadan and the Sierra de
Etpinas, both to the N. of Segorbe (p. 261), and via Lucena to the
Pena Golosa (6%0 ft.).
Beyond Gastellon the railway traverses a stony desert and then
enters the huerta of Villaneal, which is watered by the Mijares and
affords an admirable example of this style of scenery. After cross-
ing the river (to the right, the road-bridge, with its 13 arches) and
the Gastellon Canal, the train runs through a series of orange-groves.
80 M. Villarreal, a town of 11,400 inhab., beautifully situated
among orftuge-groves, topped here and there by solitary palms. The
watei-pitchers of the women resemble those of classic times, and the
popular types seen here are full of interest.
Villarreal is the best point from which to visit the Canal de Caatel-
lon, a magnificent piece of Moorish engineering, which has served the
purposes of irrigation for six long centnries. The water is drawn from
the Mijares, above the bridge mentioned above, and is at first collected
in a large basin. After a subterranean course of about !/« ^- i^ reaches
a second basin on the Rambla de las Viuda$y and It is conducted hence,
below the rambla, to a third basin, by a culvert 160 yds. long and abou*
5 ft. wide. The force and speed of the current are such th-vt large atones
thrown in above the opening of this culvert re appear at the lower end
almost instantaneously. The culvert is in a curved form, and its two ex-
tremities are only 105 yds. apart. Farther on the canal runs underground
248 Route 24. SAGUNTO. From Tortosa
(for another >/« ^O ^^^ overground to the so-called Pariidor^ a large basin
constructed in the 18th cent, and provided with three sluices. One of
these admits the water to the Canal de Almazora, another to the Canal de
Cattelldn^ while the third lets off the overflow into the river. In modern
times the canal has been carried about IV4 M. beyond the Partidor, through
vast strata of conglomerate. — Since 1818 the Canal de Castelldn has been
under a Grimio de Labradores^ consisting of 24 peasants who decide all
questions of management ad distribution.
The waters of tbe Mijares are disseminated thronghout the plain
as far as (83 M.) Burriana (Brit, vice-consul). Here and at (87 M.)
NuUt the Pefia Golosa (p. 247) is seen to the N.W. The walls of the
little town of Nules (4200 inhab.) are furnished with cubos (p. 32).
To the "W. we see the Sierra de Espaddn^ with the Alto de la Pastora,
the MoncayOj and the Pico de la Eapiia (p. 251). — About 2V2 M.
to the N.W. of Nules (omnibus) are the thermal springs (86-110**
Fahr.) of Villaoieja, frequented yearly by about 1000 visitors.
92 M. Chilche9, said to be of Roman origin, was fortified by the
Moors. — The railway leaves the plain and enters the hill-district of
(96 M.) Almenara (Arabic at Jtfincr, p. xxxvlii), with its important
Castillo (right), formerly the key of the Moorish kingdom of Valen-
cia. Don Jaime I. defeated the Moors here in 1238 and was thus
able to overrun the country. The battlefield is marked by a chapel.
Near it is a large estciblecimiento for rice- growing. The train enters
the province of Valencia. — 97^2 M. Lot Valles, the station for the
villages of Ctmrtell, Faurd, Benlfa!r6, Benavites, and Santa Coloma^
which lie scattered about the fertile corn-growing plain. — A little
farther on we cross the Palancia, which in summer is merely a dry
channel, and reach (101 M.) Sagunto, the castle-crowned hill of
which has long been conspicuous.
Sag^nntOt — There are poor Refreshment Rooms at the station, and
a small inn, the Farador de San Joaquin^ with two beds. It is, however,
advisable to avoid sleeping here and to visit the interesting little town
from Valencia (railway in V*"!*/* l^""-)-
Guide to the town and castle 1-2 p. (desirable). — The key of the
Theatre is obtained at the Alcaldfa. Permission to visit the CattUlo must
be obtained in the town from the Gobernador; the order is given up at
the entrance to the fortress and a soldier is assigned as guide (1 p.)-
Sketching is not allowed in the fortress. — A flying visit of 2-3 hrs. is
enough for a superficial glance at the sights.
SaguntOj a small town with 6200 inhab. , was long known by its
Moorish name of Murvied/ro (see p. 249) but reverted to the more
classical form in 1877. It lies on the right bank of the Palancia and
at the foot of a S.E. spur (668 ft.) of the Penas de Pajarito^ which
projects into the coast-plain of Valencia and rises precipitously on
three of its sides. The walls and towers that skirt the slope and
crown the ridge mark the site of the ancient Saguntum, an Iberian
town which is famous for its heroic but unavailing resistance to
Hannibal in B. 0. 219, before the beginning of the Second Punic
War. Part of its Inhabitants were Greeks, whose name for it was
^akynthos. The waJls were strengthened hy Marshal Suchet in 1812.
to Valencia. SAGUNTO. 24. Route.
In order to check the spread of the CartbMinian power in SDain, the
BomaiiB made an alliance with Saenntom and Bmporlse (p. 18B) and at
the same time exacted an undertaking from the Carthaginian leader Heu-
drtibat^ that he ahould not cross the Ebro. ffatmibai, however, the youth-
ful son of Hamilcar and successor of Hasdrubal, recognieed the inevlt-
ableneas ot a second collision between the Romans and the Carthaginians.
He therefore lent his aid to the Turboletes in their strife with Saguntaiu,
and finally himself advanced to besiege the wealthy emporium. The at-
tack was launched from the W. side. The Sagnntines sallied out again
and again and drove back the Carthaginian troops. Hannibal himself was
wooaded. The assailants plied the battering-ram, and the defendants
retorted with the ^phalarica', a formidable missile shod with iron and
wrapped in flaming pitch and tow. The Carthaginians finally entered the
town by a breach in the walls, but the inhabitants, like the modern
Spaniards t showed astonishing obstinacy in street-warfare and at last
racceeded in expelling the intruders. In the meantime an embassy had
arrived from Rome, but Hannibal referred its members to the Gerousia at
Carttage. The dtisens built a new wall behind that whioh had been
destroyed. When this in turn was shattered, they bailt a third and a
fourth wall across the narrow neck of the hill. At last, in the eighth month
of the siege, Hannibal captured the citadel as well as the city. Host of
the defenders perished, either in hand-to-hand combat with the invaders
or by a voluntary death in the flames of the burning city. Hannibal sent
most of his enormous booty to Carthage, where it inflamed the minds
even of those who had hitherto been opposed to the war.
In B.C. 214 the Romans recaptured Saguntam, and after the conclusion
of peace (B. C. 201) they rebuilt the city. It never regained its former im-
poi^nce, but the remidns of its theatre, circus, and other buildings show
that the new Roman city was of considerable magnificence. It possessed
its own mint, and its celebrated potteries produced the beautiful ^Calioes
Saguntini\
To the Moors, who were temporarily driven out by the Cid (p. 26)
in 1099, Saguntum was known only as Murbiter (Mnrviedro^ i.e. 'muri
veteres% or old walls). Its remains served them and their successors simply
as a quarry. Even at the beginning of the 17tb cent, the Aragonese historian
and poet Arffensola complains : —
*Con mdrmoles de nobUt in$cripd0nes,
Teatro un tiempo y aras, en Bagunto
Fabrican hoy UOtemat y mesones".
*With marbles bearing dignified inscriptions, formerly the theatre and
altars, they now build in Sagunto taverns and pot-houses'.
From the railway-station, which lies at the E. end of the town,
the Calle del Mar leads towards the W. It is continued by the Galle
Real, whic'h passes the Olorieta and ends at the Ptaza de San Fran-
cisco (PI. C, 2). Hence we ascend to the left, crossing the Plaza del
Mercado, to the Ptaza de Santa Maria^ with the Gothic parish-church
of Santa Mabia (PI. C, 2). In front of the N. portal are some stones
bearing Roman (?) inscriptions; the portal itself is adorned with
sculpture and has a bronze-mounted door. The windows are of
alabaster. On the gilded high-altar stands a mother-of-pearl cross.
— A couple of ancient columns may be seen in a house on the E.
side of the plaza.
We continue to ascend, passing an old tower, and reach the
ruins of the ancient Theatre (PI. C, 3, 4), which lies about halfway
up the castle-hill and is one of the best-preserved Roman mon-
uments of its kind.
In fit)nt is the stage or scena, with the buildings adjoining it at the
back and sides. The remains include the foundations of the stage itself,
250 Route 24. SAGUNTO. From Tortosa
which is unusually shallow (ca. 8Vs ft-)* And a couple of fine vaults in
the side-huilding to the E. Some inscribed stones are immured in ihe
latter. The auditorium (thecUrum or eavea)^ which is about 165 ft. in
diameter, adapts itself, as in almost all ancient theatres, to the natural
configuration of the hill. The central section of the 22 concentric tiers of
seats is hewn out of the living rock. The 14 lower rows are separated
from the upper by the broad praednetio. The auditorium is divided into
wedges (cunei) by three flights of steps ascending from the bottom to the
top, while there are six additional flights in the upper portion. The lowest
two tiers of seats are wider and lower than the others, and probably served
as platforms for the chairs of honour of the senators and magistrates.
Other chairs of the same kind were doubtless placed in the semicircular
orchestra, in the space occupied by the chorus in Greek thea^s. Above
the uppermost tier of seats runs a passage, about 10 ft. in width and
protected by a parapet about 8 ft. high. Six doors here correspond to the
above-mentioned flights of steps and probably served as entrances for the
occupants of the upper seats, while the more important spectators entered
from below. It is believed that there were formerly other four rows of
seats above the corridor, and that the full seating capacity of the theatre
was about 8000. — A fine view is obtained from the theatre, and the
glimpse of the cypresses on the Galvario obtained through the vaulted
arches to the £. is especially attractive.
The road ascends in windings from the theatre to the castle. It
affords fine views of the cactus-clad rocky slopes, the massive town
walls with their buttresses , the theatre, the city, the valley of the
Palancia, and the extensive coast-plain to the E.
On reaching the CaBtillo (PI. A-E, 3, 4), we first find ourselves
in the Plata del Oohemador (PI. B, 4), occupying the depression
between the E. andW. heights. We then turn to the W, to the Ea-
ter^ de San Pedro (PI. A, 3), which defends the S. slope, and thence
ascend steeply to the Castillo db San Fernando or db Sagunto,
the highest point of which is called Palo de la Bandera (fiag-staff).
The Arab cistern in the Plaza del Dos de Mayo contains excellent
water. The extensive view includes the plain of Valencia from
Benicasim (p. 247) to the Mong6 (p. 273) and the mountains of
Alicante; the. domes of Valencia are very distinct; to the N.W. is
the upper valley of the Palancia (p. 261).
We return to the Plaza del Gobernador, from the S. side of
which we look down into the cactus-clad abyss below, and then
ascend to the E. summit, crowned by the ruined *Ciudadela sb So-
Loauio or db Almbnara (p. 248). Remains of tesselated pavements,
immured capitals, and the like may be noticed here. The view of the
coast, city, and sea is superb. The Roman remains in the Pla&a del
Eco (echo ; PI. D, 4) are supposed to be those of a temple.
We leave the fortress by the way we entered it and descend past
the theatre to the Plaza de Santa Maria (p. 249). Thence we pro^
ceed to the E. through the Calle Mayor, in which axe the Casa de
Delmi (Gothic windows) and other old houses. — If time allows,
we may pay a visit to the old church of SaK Salvador (PI. F, 3)j
said to have been originally a Moorish mosque. The nave, which
has no aisles, is covered with a wooden ceiling ; the choir is vaulted.
The sacristan (26-40 c.) lives at No. 46, opposite the W. entrance.
to VaUn-ia. 8EG0KBE. 24. RouU. 251
The Boman Cireut (PI. G, D, 1), which was about 300 yds. long
and 80 yds. wide, lay on the bank of the Palancia. Early travellers
mention the remains of its walls, but these have now almost wholly
disappeared, and the site is covered with gardens. At the upper
end of the circus are some remains of a Roman bridge (Puente An-
tiguo; PI. C, 1).
From Sagunto to Sbookbb and Tebdkl, 62 U., diligence twice daily
(office in Valencia, see p. 263). — The road ascends the wide and beau-
tifol valley of the Pahmcia^ at some distance from the right bank. 2V« M.
Cfillei; 5 M. EgtiveUa.
7 M. Torre*- Torrei^ a considerable village, with a caatle perched on
a naked limestone hill. To the right is the Sierra de B^adan^ which,
with its prolongation the Sitrra de E*pina, bounds the Palancia valley on
the N.G. To the left rises the Monte Maydr. — The road enters the pro-
vince of CcuteUon de la Plana.
IS'/i M. 8eg6rbe, a town of 6700 inhab., finely situated between two
castle-crowned hills. The name recalls that of the Oeltiberian Begobriga^
which played an important part iA the struggle of Viriathus with the Uo-
mans (B.C. 149-139)^ but the assumption that Segorbe is the ancient Sego-
briga is belied by the distinct aaseriion of ancient writers that this town
lay near the sources of the Tagus. The three Doric columns at the PcAacio
del Dvca de Medinaeeli may, nevertheless, date from the Roman period. The
Cathedral contains a high- altar-piece of the school of Juanes. In the church
of Ban Martin de lae Monjae are a painting of Christ in Hades by Ribalta
and the monument of Pedro de Casanova, founder of the adjoining August-
ine nunnery. To the 8.W. of the town, on a steep promontory, is the
Glorieta. To the N. we see the Pico de la Rapita (3625 ft), to the S. the
Sierra de la Cveva Santa. The latter is named from a cave, 8 M. from
Segorbe, containing an image of the Virgin, which is visited by thousands
of devotees at the beginning of October. A fine promenade leads from the
Puerta de Valencia to a bridge crossing a *barranco\ Walks may also be
taken to the Fuente de la Eeperanea and to the paper-mills of the Carthusian
convent of Val de Orieto.
Beyond Segorbe the road continues to ascend through the well-cultivated
valley, afi'ordinif manj fine retrospects. Farther on it crosses the Palancia,
by a bridge built in 1670, and reaches (20 M.) Jirica^ picturesquely situated
on tile V. slope of a limestone hill, on the top of which are the ruins
of a Moorish castle, captured by Jaime I. in 1235. The keep is about
100 ft. high.
25 M. Yivir^ with copious springs, the water of which begins to drive
mills almost at its birth. To the li.E. is the village of Gandiel. — The
road now reaches the fissured Plateau of Barrdeae^ which is of evil repute
for its winter-storms. At the top we have an extensive view to the E.,
bounded by the distant sea. To the E. rises the rocky cone of the Monte
Pino, to the W. is the mountain-labyrinth of the PtSla Escabia.
31 If . Barrdeas, the last place in Valencia, has a very fair posada. —
Farther on the scenery reminds us that we have reached the steppes of
Aragon. Ban Agustin is the first village in the Aragonese province of Teruel.
We descend hence, crossing a tributary of the Villares that rises in the
Sierra de Jaratambre (6625 ft.), to Albentosa and —
44 H. Sarridn^ the first Aragonese place of any size. — 53V2 K* -^^
Puebla de Valverde.
62 M. Teruel^ see p. 173.
Beyond Sagunto the train enters the coast-plain of Valencia,
which consists, wherever the water penetrates, of blooming huertas.
The mountains on the right recede. The sea is rarely visible. Nu-
merous venerable olive-trees are passed. — 106 M. Puzol has a few
palma and walls and towers of the same reddish hue as the soil they
252 Route 25. VALENCIA. Hotels,
stand on. We pass through a rocky cutting. — 108 M. Puig^ dom-
inated hy a ruined castle. The large building with the four corner
turrets is a convent. To the right is the Monte Negro. — 110 M.
Albuixech, a characteristic village of the huerta, with its wheat-fields,
orange-groves, palms, and cottages (chozcu). — The domes of Va-
lencia, shining brightly in the sun, at last appear in the distance.
The line approaches the sea, on which, to the left, are Cabafial and
El Grao (p. 266). 117 M. Cabanal. To the right stands the convent
of San Miguel de los Reyes (p. 262). We cross the TCtria^ to the E.
of Valencia, by a lofty iron bridge, pass the bull-ring, and enter the
station of (119 M.) Valencia,
25. Valencia.
Railway Btations. 1. Estaddn del NorU (PI. G, 6; restaurant, poor),
Calle Sagrario San Francisco, to the 8.E. of the city, for the trains to Tor-
tosa (Barcelona), El Grao, Carcagente, and La Encina (Madrid, Alicante).
2. E$(acidn de lAria (to the N. of PI. A, 1), Carretera de Barcelona, for the
narrow-gauge railways to Rafelbunol, Betera, Patema, and Liria. 3. Bwtacidn
de Aragdn (PI.- A, 7), Calle de Cuarto, for the line to Liria via Manises.
4. Eataddn del Eete (to the S. of PI. G, 7), Calle de Gibraltar, for the line
to Utiel. — The luggage of passengers arriving at the Estacidn del Norte
U twice examined by the custom-house officers. Gobi (tariff, see below)
and the Omnibuge* of the more important hotels meet the trains.
Arrival by Sea. The steamers anchor in the harbour of El Grao
(p. 265). Boat from or to the steamer f r each pers. and each large article
of luggage 50 c. (comp. p. xviii). The Grao is connected with Valencia by
ra'lway and steam- tramway, cab-tariff, see below. — The steamers of the
Spanish CompaH'a Valenclana de Navegaeidn (agency, Calle del Tomo de San
Cristobal 5) run weekly to Alicante; while the coasting steamers of Ibarra
A Co. (agent, E. Ifoguea Dechent, Calle de Caballerofl 9) ply weekly to Ali-
cante^ Malagaj and other ports. The steamers of the Con^xiiia Sevillana and
of Efpaliu A Co. ply weekly between Valencia and Marseilles and vice versa,
fomp. the French time-ta^'lea and the Guia para los Viajeros (p. xv).
Hotels (comp. p. xx). Hotel de Espa^^'a (PI. a^ F, 5), Ba.jada de Sau
Francisco 7, with good cuisine and large cafe on the groundfloor, ddj. 4,
1). 5, omn. J, pens, from 10 p. ^ Hot. de Pabis (PI. b; F, 3) 'Calle del
Mar 52, pens. 8-10 p. v Hot. de Bona (PI. c; F, 4), Plaza de ViUarrasa 5,
in an open situation, pens. 9 10 p. ; Fonda de Osiente, Calle San Vicente
.84, pens. 8-12 p. i Hot. Ingles, Pasage de Ripalda, pens. 8-12 p. ; Fonda
DB LAS Cuatro Naciokes, Calle Lauria, pens. 6-9 p.; Fonda de Europa,
Calle de Eibera 2, pens. 5 6V2 p. \ Fonda del Comebcio, Calle San Fer-
nando 17, pens. 4-8 p.
Oafea (comp. p. xxii). Ca/i EspaUa (see above), in the Moorish style,
worth seeing, but frequented in the evening hy the lower classes only;
^Cc^fi del Siglo^ Plaza de la Reina 2^ *C«/^ Fortie^ Calle de la Pas 2, near
the Plaza de la Eeina; C(^fi de la Habana^ Calle de las Barcas 86. — Con-
fectioner: Burriel^i Plaza de la Reina i.
Restaurants (comp. p. xxi). *Espcdia^ on the fii*st floor of the Hot.
de Espana (see above), ddj. from 11.80 a.m., D. from 7.90 p.m. on; JETdt.
de ParU^ see above.
Beer Houses (Cervecerim). For lis (see above), Munich beer; Leo» de
Oro^ Plaza de la Pelota 1 ; G«rvec&ria Etcocesa^ Calle Pascual y Geais 51.
Oabs (CocJtes de Plaza ; stand in the Plaza de ViUarrasa) : per drive
(carrera) IV*, for the Ist hr. (la primera hora) l«/4, each addit. hf. !'/*>
per day 12Va p. •, with two horses 2, 2V2, 2, 20 p. — There is but a' small
number of these superior cabs, and the ordinary conveyance of Valencia
fliB
uoAirnrav^-il*»-iS
o»f>
3
ff
•^.jiSa^sa:
L
^ f ^
1 ^ •■•-
Tn»nway8, VALENCIA. 25, Route, 253
is the Tartana, a two-wheeled vehicle, with six aeaU facing each other aa
io a waggonette and entered from behind. The driver sits on a small
board attached to one of the shafts. The name is taken Arom a variety of
small aaiiing-boat well-known on the Mediterranean (comp. the double
meaning of the New En|[land barge)^ and the cover resembles the /elta of
the Veaaetian gondola. Fare 1, for the 1st hr. IVa, each addit. hr. 1, per
day 71/3 p. — In all cases the above tariff incluaes £1 Orao, and the rate
per honr (per hora) includes all places within Va hr. of the town. In drives
to the railway-station the above fares cover 1-2 pers. and one article of
Inggagc; each additional article 25-50 c, according to size.
Tnunwaya (Trantias). 1. Linea Dwgonal^ running from the Qlorieta
fPl. G, H, 3) across the town, through the Mercado (p. IMS) and near the
Musemn (p. 2P0). 2. From the Plata de Tetuan (PI. G, 2) to the Sstaddn
de Arag&n (p. 2&2). 3. From the PumU de Serrano* (PL C, 1) to the £staci6n
de Liria (p. 252). 4. Unea de Circunvalacion^ running round the town on
the line of the former fortifications. Fares 5-10 c. — Bteam Tramway
from the Plaza de Tetuan (PI. O, 2), via .he Puente del Real (PI. F, G, 1)
and the Alameda (p. 262), to El Orao (p. 266), every V« hr. (fares 35,
25, 15 c).
Post Office (Correo; PI. E, 6), Bajada del Palau; open for poste restante
letters 9-3, for the transmissiun of registered letters to foreign countries
8-10. — TelMtaph Office (PI. F, 4), Calle Trinquete de Caballeros.
BxitMh 'VTca-Gonsnl, A. Frederick Iven*^ Calle del Mar 59. — United
States Gonsular Agent, Theodor Mertens^ at £1 Grao (p. 265). — Iloyd^s
Agents, Dart ie Co.
Baths (Ba%os). Lag Termas, Calle de Pelayo 37 and Calle Baildn 38,
to the S. i<f the Estaeidn del Korte. The following are open in summer
only: BcHos de San Rafael^ Calle de Falcon 2; El TWt'a, Calle de Carni-
ceros 14; El Almirante, Calle del Almirante 1; and the baths in the Calle
de Pizarro. — Sea Baths (BaHos Flotantes), open from mid- June to Oct.:
^'Lat Arenas, at Cabafial (p. 265); La Florida, LaEetrella^ at El Grao.
Chemists. Farmaeia de San Martin^ Ca]le de San Vicente 22; Br.
Frcmcisco Torrens, Plaxa del Mercado 73; Bias Cue$ta, Plaza del Sillereado.
Bank (aleo money-changers). Cridit Ljfonnaf$, Calle San Vicente 25.
Beoksellers. Paecual Aguilar, Calle de Caballeros 26; Ram6n Ortega^
Bajada de San Francisco 11, adjoining the Hot. Espana; Badal^ Plaza de
la Constitucidn 4.
Shops (comp. p.xxiii). The best are in the Calle de San Vicente, the
Calle de Zaragoza, the Plaza de la Reina, and the Calle de San Fernando. —
Fans (Paknitoe), a Valencian speciality: Calomina y Bomingneg, Calle de
Zaragoza 29. — Mamtab Valbmoianas, at several shops in the Calle de San
Fernando, to the E. of the Mercado. — Gloves, Calle de Zaragoza 24. —
SiLVEB Wabes (excellent), in the shops in the Plateria. — Albacete Kxives
and Daggers (p. 278), Calle de las Hierros de la Lonja.
Theatres (comp. p. xxvi). Teatro Principal (PI. G, 5), Calle de las
Barcas, for operas and dramas, with room for !SCO people ; Teatro de la
Prin'ua (PI. C, 4, 5), Calle del Rev Don Jaime, for light comedy, 2arzue-
las, etc.; Teatro de Apolo (PI. G, 5), Calle Don Juan de Austria 24. —
Snnuner Theatres. Teatro de Pizarro (PI. H, I, 6), Calle de Pi/arro;
Teatro Diat (PI. H, 6), Calle de Ruzafa 55. Each of these has a cafe-
restaurant and can accommodate 2000 spectators.
Bull King {Plaza de Toros; PI. G, H, 6, 7; p. 265), Calle de Jiitiva. —
Tiro de Pichon (Pigeon Shooting)^ carried on mainly in the dry bed of the
Turia, below the Puente del Mar. — Basque Ball Game {Juego de Pelota;
p. xxix), near the Alameda (p. 262; in summer only).
Xzpeslcidn Permanente de Bellas Artes, Calle de Caballeros 13 (free).
Difigence Office, Calle de San Vicente 115^or the journeys to Segorbe^
Teruel, Daroca^ and Cari^ena (comp. pp. 251, 173).
YestiTftls. Interesting processions take place on El Dia de San Vicente
(April 5th ; p. 262), the tutelar of the city. — The Festival of Corpiu Chrieti
IS al^ celebrated with processions and carrying round the Pasot (p. 3£0),
— A singular ceremony is performed every Friday at 10 a.m. in the
254 Route 25. VALENCIA. History,
church of Corpus Christi (p. 256). — On ITov. 11th and Nov. 25(h the
Dehefa de Albufera (p. 266) is much visited.
Principal Bights (1-lVs day). Walk through the CaUe de San Vicente
and the Calte de Zaragota to the Cathedral (p. 257), Ascent of the Migut-
lete (^. 256). Visits lo the Audieneia (p. 259), the Mvsewn (p. 260), the
Puerto de Serranos (p. 281), and the Qlvrieta (p. 262). From the Qlorieta
by tramway to the Mercado and Lonja (p. 263).
Valencia^ once the capital of the king:dom and now of the pro-
vince of the same name, and the seat of an archbishop, a captain
general, and a university, lies 2^/2 M. from the sea, in the fertile
Huerta de Valencia, on the right bank of the THria or Gtuidalaviar
(Arab. Wadi-al-abyad, or 'white river'). Pop. 125,100. The views
it commands of the mountains to the W. (12 M. off), the acropolis
of Sagunto to the N., and the Mongo and Alicante Mts. to the S.E.,
are not particularly striking, and the sea is not visible except from
the tops of towers. Nevertheless the city presents a cheerful and
picturesque aspect, with the blue, white, and gold azulejo-domes of
its churches and its narrow and bustling streets, overspread by the
clear sky of the S. ; and it is easy to understand the ancient saying
^coelum hie cecidisse putes' ('you would take it for a piece of heaven
upon earth'). None of the larger towns of Spain, except, perhaps,
Alicante and Cadiz, produce so Oriental an effect as Valencia, the
Medina-bit-tardb (*city of joy') of the Arabs, who, according to the
Spanish ballad, bewailed the approach of the Cid :
Citanto mas la vee hermom The more beautiful it appears,
Mas le crece su pesar . . . The greater is the sorrow . . .
0 Valencia, 0 Valencia^ Oh Valencia, Oh Valencia,
Bids te quiera remediarl May God give thee succour!
The Climatb of Valencia (comp. p. 242) is singularly mild and
very dry. The Levantero, or E. wind, alone brings rain; the Po-
niente, or W. wind, descending from the Castilian plateau, is liot in
summer and cold in winter, but always dry. The Solano^ or S. wind,
generally brings great heat and is charged with the malarious ex-
halations of the rice-marshes of Albufera. — The drinking-water of
Valencia is the water of the Turia filtrated, and should be avoided.
History. Valencia, which lay in the territory of the JSdetani, first
appears in history in B.C. 138, at the end of the war with Viriathus, when
JPecimus Junius Brutus, the Roman consul, settled the captive Lusitanians
here and invested the town with the Jus Latinum. Later Valencia espoused
the cause of Sertorius, and it was therefore destroyed by Pomppy in
B.C. 75. The Visigoths captured the town in 413 A.D., and the Moors in
714. On the disruption of the Caliphate of Cordova, the Viceroy ^Abd-al-' Aziz
Abu-l-JSasan here founded the dynasty of the Amerides (1021) and made
Valencia the capital of an independent kingdom which stretched along
the coast from Almeria to the Ebro. This kingdom fell into the hands
of the Almoi'avides (p. 309) in 1092, but soon after (1096) Valencia was
taken, partly through treachery, by the Christians under the Cid (p. 26).
After the death of this famous leader (1099) his wife Ximena tried to
defend the city, now known as Valencia del Cid^ but was soon forced to
abandon it. The story of how she placed the dead body of her husband
on his famous war-horse Babieca and so pa.ssed safely through the ranks
of the terrified Moors is a favourite one with the Spanish ballad-writers.
Mohammed Ibn S(^id or Ibn Mardanfsh (1146-72) established here another
fooriph kingdom, which alto embraced Murcia, Almeria, and Jaen, and
CaUe de S, Vicente. VALENCIA. 26. Route. 255
saccesBfolly maintained bis independence against the Alxnobades. After
his death Alfonso II. of Aragon exacted tribute from Valencia, bnt it was
not finally conquered by the Christians till 1288, when Jaime J. of Aragon
entered the city in triumph on Sept. S8th, the eve of the festital of
St. Michael, lender the ^Catholic Kings* Valencia was annexed to Castile
and was ruled by a viceroy (viiTey), T)ie industrious Moriscoes were
foolishly expelled in the beginning of the 17th cent., and its espousal of
the cause of the Hapsburgs in the War of the Spanish Succession led to
the abolition of its fueros (p. 4). In the War of Independence Valencia
was taken by Bucket in 1812, remaining in the hands of ttie French till the
following year. In the later contests between Liberals and Conservatives
Valencia waa the scene of various significant events, and here Quern
Christina signed her abdication on Oct. 12th, 1840. — In spite of the con-
struction of large protective works at the harbour of El Grao (p. 2l^),
the trade of Valencia has of late been steadily declining. It has, however,
recently regained its former importance as one of the headquarters of
Spanish painting. — The first printing-press in Spain is said to have been
set up at Valencia in 1474.
Valencia plays a somewhat prominent part in the romance of *OiI Bias",
and the estate of Liriae^ presented to that hero by the Leyvas, is described as
near the Ouadalaviar and about 4 hrs/ journey from Valencia (coup. Map).
The kernel of the old town is fonned by the cathedral, which
stands at the junction of three of the most ancient quarters: the
Oaariel del Mereado, 0. del Mar^ and C. de Serranoe. The 0. de San
Vicente, to the S.W., is another old district. A few of the streets
are fairly straight and wide, but most of them are narrow, dark,
and irregular. The city-walls, erected in 1366 and celebrated under
their Moorish name of Tdpia (p. xzzTiii), were removed in 1871, and
two gates (pp. 261, 264) alone remain to tell the tale. On their site
has been laid out a series of wide encircling boulevards, hut few
houses have been built in these except on the E. side, which is
exposed to the refreshing sea-breezes.
In front of the Estacidn del Norte (PI. G, 6), on the site of the
former Convent of San Francisco, lies a wide and dreary expanse
surrounded by poorly-built houses. At its N.W. end lies the Plaza
DE San Fkancisco (PI. F, 5), with its green pleasure-grounds. —
Tlie busy Bajada de San Francisco leads hence to the N.W. to the —
Calls db San Vicente, one of the chief streets of the city, the
N. part of which is enlivened by a considerable traffic. The open
shops on the groundfloor, with their bright-coloured cloths and car<->
pets, are picturesque and Oriental-looking. The Calle San Fernando
(PI. E, 4) leads to the W. to the Mercado (p. 263), and other streets
to the Plaza del Cid (p. 267). The Calle de San Vicente ends at
the Plaza de la Reina (p. 267).
The quarter to the N.E. of the Calle de San Vicente contains
several interesting buildings. Thus, near the Plaza de la Reina,
is the church of San Martin (PI. E, F, 4), originally a Gothic struc-
ture of 1400, but now entirely modernized. Over the portal is a
bronze equestrian statue of St. Martin (1496). — The narrow Calle
Abadia de San Martin leads to the attractive Plaza db Villab&asa
(PI. F, 4), on the S. side of which (No. 18), at the corner of the
Calle Maria de Molina, stands the handsome Palaoio del Xarqu^
256 Route 25. VALENCIA. CoL del Patriarea,
de Dos AgUftB, a bnilding of the 18th cent., with abaroque portal '
by Vergaraj fantastically adorned with figures.
We now proceed to the S.E., through the Galle Maria de Molina,
to the church of San Andres (PI. F, 4), originally a mosque, restored
in the 13th cent., and modernized in 1610. The interior contains
good pictures by Juanes ('Virgen de la Leche'), Ribaltaj Vergara,
and other Valenoiau masters. — The Calle de Rubiols leads hence
to the N.E. to the Plaza del Colegio del Pateiarca (PI. F, 0,4),
on the N. side of which, at the corner of the Galle de la Nave,
stands the —
Colegio dol Patriarea, a Renaissance edifice, resembling the
Roman palazsii, erected in 1586-1605 for Juan de Ribera, Arch-
bishop and Viceroy of Valencia. The architect was Antonio del JR«y,
but the plans are said to have been furnished by Herrera. In the
middle of the large arcaded court stands an unimportant ancient
statue of Geres. To the right of the entrance is the Capilla de la
Purisima Concepcidn, containing fine tapestry, some pictures by
Ribalta, and a group of the Virgin and Child (16th cent.). On the
first floor are the Archives, the Library, and the Dwelling of the
Rector, the last containing some good works by ^arinena, Ribalta,
and Morales (shown after 2 p.m.). — The S.W. angle of the build-
ing is occupied by the Iglbsia del Corpus Christi, the dome of
which is decorated with frescoes by Jucsn BauUsta Novara, represent-
ing the legend of St. Vincent Ferrer (p. 262). A dark chapel to the
left enshrines a painting by RibcUta, representing the appearance of
Christ and Saints to that saint on hijs sick-bed. In the transept is the
tomb of Archbp. Juan de Ribera (see above), canonized in 1797. By
the high-altar are a Last Supper and a Holy Family by Ribalta.
The Miterere celebrated at the high-altar at 10 a.m. on Frid. (comp.
p. 253) is a singular and most impressive ceremony, which ladies are not
allowed to attend unless dressed in black and wearing a mantilla. Bibalta''8
Last Supper is lowered by machinery, and its place is taken by a series
of curtains of different colours. When the last black curtain is suddenly
withdrawn as by an invisible hand, we see a figure of the Dying Saviour
on the Gross. The ceremony is then repeated in the reverse order. The
incense-blackened wooden crucifix, presented by the founder of the Colegio
and church, passes for a masterpiece of Italian art., but cannot be more
closely examined without the permission of the Rector (apply to the
sacristan).
Opposite the Colegio stands the VniTersity (PL G, 4), founded
in 1441 and restored at the beginning of the 19th century. It has
about 2000 students. In the court is a statue of Juan Luis de Vives,
a philosopher and scholar who was bom at Valencia in 1492 and
died at Bruges in 1640 ; it is by Jos^ Aixa and was erected in 1880.
The library (open daily, 9-1) contains about 50,000 vols., including
'Tirante el Blanco' and many others of the romances of chivalry
mentioned in 'Don Quixote'. It also possesses flue old editions of
the classics and MSS. from the convents of San Miguel de los Reyes
and Santo Domingo (p. 262) and the Cartuja dePortacoeli (p. 267).
— The Calle de la Nave leads hence to the N.E. to the Plaza del
Principe Alfonso and the Glorieta (see p. 262).
Cathedral VALENCIA. ^6. Route. 257
Through the long and narrow Plaza de GomediaB we proceed
to the N. W. to the Plaza de la Congregaclon (PI. F, 3), which is
shaded hy plane-trees. Here stands the church of Santo Tomas,
Hence we may return to the S.W. to the Plaza de la Reina through
the Calls dbl Mab(P1. E, F, 3, 4), another of the chief thorough-
fares of Valencia.
The Calle de San Vicente and the Calle del Mar meet at the
Plaza db la Rbina (PI. £, 4), a small triangular place, surrounded
by flne trees and containing elegant shops and the Caftf del Siglo
(p. 252).
On the W. it is adjoined by the narrow Plaza db Santa Cata-
LiNA (PI. £t 4), with the church of Santa Catalina, dating from'
1688 and possessing a hexagonal tower. The interior is as brilliant
as white paint and gilding can make it, while the W. front is
adorned with a mosaic of azulejos. Hence we may go to the S.W.,
via the round Plata del Cid or the Fla%a de Yerbae (vegetable and
fruit market at both in the morning), to the Mercado (p. 263).
We now turn to the N.W. into the Calls db Zabagoza (PI. £,
4, 3), a narrow street with numerous shops. With the Miguelete,
or tower of the cathedral, rising at its N. end, this affords one of
the most quaint and characteristic street-views in Valencia.
The Gothic *Oathedrftl (PI. E, 3), known as La Seo^ is sup-
posed to occupy the site of a temple of Diana, which was succeeded
in turn by a Christian church and a Moorish mosque. According
to an inscription, the present building, which is dedicated to the
Virgin, was founded in 1262 and finished by Pedro Compte (?) in
14S2. The ground-plan shows a nave and aisles, a transept, and a
pentagonal capilla mayor with ambulatory and radiating chapels.
The E. end, the S. transept, with its round-arched portal (Puerta
del Paldu) and lancet-windows, and part of the sacristy date from
the 13th century. The N. transept, with the sculptured Puerta de
los Apditoles and its rose-windows, and the airy octagonal *Cim-
borio over the crossing, with its large and beautiful traceried win-
dows, were erected after 1350, and the latter was , perhaps , not
finished till 1404. In 1381-1418 was erected the Gothic bell-tower
to the left of the facade, which is known as El Miguelete (Valencian,
El Miealetey, it is said to be an imitation of the cathedral-tower at
L^rida (p. 215) and to be due to a foreign archite<'t, Juan FrancJc.
The New Chapter House, adjoining the left aisle, was finished in
1482. The Paerta del Miguelete, the main entrance, facing the Calle
de Zaragoza, with its bronze-bound doors, has been modernized.
Unfortunately the cathedral is so hemmed in by other buildings
that no general view of it is obtainable. It stands N.W. and S.E.,
instead of B. and W.
The laterior, which ia 320 It. long and 200 ft. wide (across the tran-
septs), was sadly def iced in 1760 by a coa4ng of plaster of Paris in the
Renaissance style. To the right, adjoining the main.entrance, is a "Baptism
of Christ, by Juana. In the corner, at the beginning of the K. aisle, is
BASDBKXx*i Spain. 17
258 Route 26. VALENCIA. MigxuUu,
the entrance to tbe Miguelete (see below), aad in the opposite comer is
that of the old Sala Capitular (see below).
Ijift Aislb. On the wall between the Gapilla de San Luis and the
Oapilla de San Vicente Ferrer (2nd and 8rd chapels) is a good painting
of the 15th cent., representing a canonised bishop with two angels and
Ihc pious founders. In the Capilla de la Purfsima Concepcidn (the fourth)
are four other pictures of the same period.
BiOHT AiSLB. The Capilla de San Pedro (the first), now used as a
parish-church, contains parts of the old high-altar, destroyed by fire in
1469, a replica of Jwrne*" Presentation of the Saviour (p. 2bl), and Peter
receiving the keys, by Ondara. — To the left, in the Cap. de San Fran-
cisco de Borja (2nd), is a painting by Goya, representing the saint taking
leave of his friends when about to join the order of the Jesuits. — In the
Cap. de San Miguel (3rd) is the Virgin in prayer, by the Italian painter
Sasto/errato. — The Gap. de Santo Tomtfs de Villanueva (4th) contains
four paintings of the 16th century.
The TrateorOy at the S. end of the Renaissance Cobo, is adorned with
12 alabaster reliefs from the Old and ITew Testaments, dating from 1466.
The silleria is elaborately carved.
The High Altab, dating from the end of the 16fh cent., was modern-
ized in 1862. The beautiful panel-paintings of scenes from the history of
Christ and the Virgin were executed by Ferrando de Llanos and Ferrando
de Almedina in 1606, and clearly show (especially the Death of the Virgin)
the influence of Leonardo da Vinci. The painted doors behind the altar
are also noteworthy. On an adjacent pillar are hung up the spurs and
bridle of James I. of Aragon.
Bight Transept. Near the door are the Itfartyrdom of St. Serapion
and the Martyrdom of St. Vincent, two paintings by Jo»4 Ytrgara,
Ambulatobt. The dark Capilla de la Virgen del Puig (2nd), with its
alabaster windows, contains a fine painting of the Virgin and Child by an
Unknown UatUr of tJie 16th century. — Adjoining the (last) Capilla de San
Antonio is an Ecce Homo, probably bv RibtUta.
The Sacbistt (best visited about 10 a.m.) contains a Bearing of the
Gross, after Sebastiano del Piombo (p. 78), a Piet^ after MvriUo, the ivory
Crucifix of St. Francis of Sales, a valuable Temo (set of chasuble and two
dalmatics, worn by the three celebrants), some fine Altar Frontah of the
16th cent., and the Staff of St. Augustine. — In the BblicAbio is a magni-
ficent Santo Calix (chalice) from the convent of San Juan de la Pena
(p. 161), consisting of an antique brown sardonyx, about 4 inches across
and richly adorned with pearls, rubies, and emeralds. The base is also
of sardonyx. A special festival is held on Aug. 31st in honour of this
relic, which was probably made in the 15th century.
The **Sala Capitdlab Antigda (entr., see above), built in 1368, has
been partly modernized but still retains its old Gothic groining, which
resembles a star or a sun with its planets. The Forial U fine, and also
the Old Traecoro^ with a statue of Christ by AUmso Cam. The interesting
cartoon by Lopety representing the expulsion of tbe Moors, was originally
transparent. On the wall hangs a dbain which the Catalans carried off
from Marseilles. — The Sala Gapitulab Modebna (p. 267) contains a Holy
Family and a Last Supper by Juanes and a Pieta by a FlemUh Master.
The *lligueletef or bell-tower, is ascended by a steep winding
staircase of 207 steps (entr., see above ; open 8-12 and 2-5 ; fee to
the keeper 25 c). It was originally meant to be much higher than it
is; the present height (152 ft.) is equal to its circumference, each
of its eight sides being about 19 ft. wide. The rich belfry contains
the Miguelete J a bell first hung on the feast of St. Michael (p. 255)^
the strokes of which, as in the case of the bell in the Torre de Vela
at Ghranada, regulate the irrigation of the Huerta. The bell is struck
on the outside by a liammeT, and the dapper is not used.
Audiencia. VALENCIA. 25. Route. 259
Hie *Vnw frtfm the platform below the belfry-stage is wide and
comprehensiTe. It is said that the Cld, the morning after his capture of
Valencia, brought his wife and daughters to the top of the Moorish tower
on this site, to show them the earthly paradise he had won. We overlook
the entire Btierta from the mountains of Benicasfm (p. 247) and the castle
hill of Sagunto (p. SfiO) to the mountains of Alicante. Immediately to the
8. lies the Albufera (p. 266). Prominent to the N. are the mountains near
Segorbe (p. 251), to the W. those of Ghiva and Requena, the Dupoblado
de lot CabriUoi and the SUrra MartU; the Mong6 (p. 278) is conspicuous
to the 8.B. The streets of the town lie below us like open trenches.
Abore the flat-roofed houses rise the beautiful tiled domes. The steeple
of AMto Catalina (p. 257), the ISurta d» Semmot (p. 261), the Puerta de
Cuarte (p. 264), and the BuU JUng (p. 285) are seen to special adyantage.
An admirable bird's-eye view is obtained of the roofs, domes, and noble
lantern of the cathedral.
From the N. end of the cathedral a lofty stone bridge leads
across the Plaza Almoina (PI. £, 3) to the Capilla de Haestra
Sefiora de lot Deuuaparadof ('the forsaken'), a dark oval structure,
modernized in the 17th cent, and adorned (vaulting) with unim-
portant frescoes by Palomino, Over the high-altar is the much-
revered Sagrada Imagtn of the Virgin, originally destined by Bene-
dict Xni. (p. 170) for a lunatic asylum (1410). Above it is a
picture by JuaneSy representing the Virgin distributing gifts to the
orphans (desamparados) of a brotherhood.
To the N.£. of the cathedral and also connected with it, as well
as with the above-named Gapilla, by stone arches, is the Palaoio
AszoBisFAL (PI. £, 3), with its fine patio.
The Tribunal de Agnai or de las Acequieros, also called La
Carte dt la See, holds its meetings every Thurs., at 11.30 a.m., in
the Plaza db la Sbo (PL E, 3) , in firont of th^' Puerta de los
Apostoles (p. 267).
The members of tUis * Water Tribunal' are peasants, exercising full
control over the irrigation-districts (aciqvia*) of Tormot^ RasccMa, MUlata^
liutdOa, Fabara^ Robella^ and Manites. (Moneada, the eighth district, is
under a syndic appointed by government.) Theyf assemble on a semi-
circular divan, which has to be provided by the chapter of the cathedral,
and elect their own president or Regidor de Justicia. The proceedUigs are
all verbal and cost the parties nothing. As soon as the litigant*} and the
witnesses have been heard, the tribunal discusses the case in public and
pronounces its decision. This is summary, and from it there is no appeal.
The condemned receives no water for his field, until he has satisfied the
court through the Cekidoret or overseers. — This tribunal of the waters
dates from the Moorish period and has retained its primitive simplicity
and honesty through all the political changes that have taken place. Even
the ^ay of meeting is unchanged, Thursday having been the market-day
f suM) of the Moors.
In the middle of the Plaza de la Seo, which is also known as
the Plaza de la Constitucidn, is a tasteful fountain. A charming
little Oatden on its W. side invites to repose. — Beyond this garden
rises the *Aadienoia (PI. D, 3 ; adm. on application to the porter,
to the right; fee V2'i pO> formerly the Palacio de la Diputacidn^
or chamber of deputies, of the kingdom of Valencia. It is an im-
: posing Renaissance structure of the 16th cent., with a lofty fagade
.turned towards the Calle de Gaballeros.
17*
260 BouU25. VALENCIA. Museo Provincial,
After visiting the Sbcbbtabia, with iifl coflfered and gilded ceilisg, we
ascend a flight of steps to the * SALdsr db Cobtie8, or old chamber of the
deputies, wbich has a magnificent artesonado .C€dling (21 coffers) and a
gallery with carved columns and corbels. The lower part of the wall is
lined with beautiful azulejos, above which are frescoes. The large paint-
ings, executed al fresco by Crittdbal ZariSkna and Peralia and afterwards
varnished, represent the Presidents of the Cortes (K. wall), Ecclesiastical
Dignitaries (W. wall), and the Ifoblesa Militar (£. wall). The smaller
paintings show the deputies elected by the pueblos in 1593 and the viceroy
(to the left, in scarlet-, 1592). The first figure to the left in the painting
in the S.£. corner of the room is said to be Zarinena himself. .According
to an inscription on the third column of the gallery to the left, the wood
carvings were finished in 1561. — The Libbabt contains interesting MSB.
In the Gafxlla db la Vxbgbn are a few works by Zwharan*
Fiom tbe Audiencia we proceed to the W., thiough the Galle de
Caballeros, to the church of San Babtolomi^ (PI. D, 3), which was
erected in 1239 on the site of the pie-Moresqne Capilla del Scmto
SepuZcro, It was, however, rebuilt, with the exception of the fine
bell-tower, in 1666. To the N.W. of this church lies the busy Calls
DB Sebbanos (pi. C, D, 3, 2), at the end of which, near the Pueita
de Serranos (p. 261), the Oalle de Roteros diverges to the left and
leads past the church of Santa Cms to the —
*Xn8eo Provincial de Pintnras (PI. B, 2). The museum
occupies the former Convento del Carmen^ and is entered by the
second large door, inscribed Escuela Oeneral de Bellas Artes. It is
open for a fee of 50 c. on week-days, 9-4 (Mon. 1-4), and free on
Sun., 10-2 (June-Sept. 8-12). There is no catalogue. — Besides
a few modem pictures and a small archaBological collection, the
museum contains about 1500 older paintings, chiefly from the sup-
pressed convents of Valencia. There are comparatively few works
of great importance, but nowhere else can one obtain so compre-
hensive a survey of the Valencian School, which includes such
eminent masters as Vicente Juanes Macip (1523-96), Francisco
Bibalta (155?-1628), the 'Painter of San Vicente Ferrer*, Josef
Ribera QLo Spagnoletto* ; 1588-1656), Jacinto Jerdnimo Espinosa
(1600-1680), and Pedro Orrente (d. 1644). Comp. p. Ixix.
The Wbst Gloisteb, which we enter fln>t, conttans three palms sud
to be 150 years old. In the corridors are a few plaster casts and worth-
less pictures. — To the right is the —
East Gloxstbb, entirely remodelled in 1890. The corridors contain
insignificant pictures. — The central part has been converted into a Boom,
lighted from the roof and containing the masterpieces of the School of
Valencia. We begin on the B. wall, to the left. Vicente Juanes MaeiPp 678.
Betrothskl of St. Agnes; '^599. Ecce Homo*, *No number, The Saviour;
*626. Assumption, distinguished for its beautiful angels* heads and for the
vigour of its colouring against the light golden-toned background. No
number, ZariSlenay SS. fJohn and Peter; no number, Juanet, SS. Vincent
Ferrer and Vincent the Martyr, with God the Father above; •518. F^vm-
Cisco Ribalta^ St. Francis embracing the cruciQed Saviour, recalling Mu-
rillo's picture at Seville (p. 415); no number. Franc. Ribalta, Virgin and
Child enthroned (injured); 515. ZariSiena^ St. John the Evangelist and the
two Maries; no number, Eapinosa^ Christ appearing to St. Peter Nolasco,
Death of St. Louis Beltram, Holy Family; F. Bibalta, 646. St. Paul, 656.
St. Peter, 699. St. Bruno; 617. Juan Ribalta, Crucifixion. — West wall:
688. Franc. Ribdlta, John the Baptist. Ribera ^ 655. St. Theresa; 602.
Mv$eo Jhrovincial, VALENCIA. S6, RouU, 261
Si. J«rome| *689. MartTrdom of 81 SebMtlan. frtme, Ribatta^ no number,
CrndOzion; 611. Coronation of the Virgin; 702. Lut Sapper. E^i>inoia^
146. St. Lonii of Toalonse; 587. Portrait of Jerdnimo Mos) 160. Mass of
St. Peter Nolasco; 606. Commnnion of the Magdalen. 679, 330, 669, 661.
E$t£b<m March ^ Battle-scenes-, 790. VieenU Lopet^ Portrait of Vicente Blascu.
The East Room (left) contains older pictures (14-i6th cent ). N. end
wall: BO nomber, 1% ih$ tiyU ^ Fra Angelieo da Fieioky Large altar-piece
with scenes from the life of Christ. Back-wall : Unknown Italian Matter
of the 15th eent.^ Four panels with the Doubting Thomas, the Miraculous
Draught of Fishes, the Resurrection, and the Risen Christ appeating to
the Vixgin. — The Wbst Boom (right) has paintings of the lo-16th cen-
turies. On the left end-wall: Winged altar-piece by an Unknown Sjxtnish
Mooter (16th cent.). Bear-wall: 6^. Mabuu (?), Adoration of the Child;
657. Vntnown ItaUan Matter (ca. 1600), Holy Family; no number, Fin-
liiricefttff, Virgin and Child, with the pious donor, Card. Bodrigo Borgia
(p. 269); Hiorowymtte BoKh CEl Botco')^ Crown of Thorns, Scourging of
(Jhrist, the Mt. of Olives (copies). Right end-wall: Altar of St. Thecla,
by a Spanish Maeter of the 16 th century.
South-East <^ubb Book (Angvlo J): 686. Frcmc. RibaUa^ Portrait of
a man& 674. VeUuguee^ Portrait of himself (copy); Ooya^ 260, 676. Bayeu
the painter and Bafael Ssteve the engraver; &SA. Claudio Coello, Portrait
of a man. Also a few unimportant Flemish works of the 17th century.
-— NoBTH-£asT CoBMSB BooM (Anguto I J): *621. Juanee^ The Saviour;
cabinet -pieces by Zar^iena and others. — Xorth-West Cobnkb Book
(Angvlo III): 612. Juane$^ Last Supper; several works by Ptdro Orrente. —
Socth-Wbst Cobnkb Rook (Angulo IV): 504. In the style of Farmiffkmino,
661. School of Leonardo da Vinei, 663. Andrea del Sarto (?), Virgin and
Child; 383. Correggio^ Holy Family (copy). — The door opposite the N.E.
Corner Boom leads to the —
Sal6v db Jomtab, the council-room of the Academy. Among the por-
traits (retratoe) here is one of Ferdinand VII. (No. 766), which is of great
value in throwing light on the character of this prince. — We return to
the vestibule of the cloisters and pass to the right into the —
*BooK OP MoDBBir PiCTUBBs. Bight side: Frcmdeeo Dominyo^ The last
day of Sagunto (p. 249); Joaquin Sorolla, £1 Palleter; Ignatio Pinato^ Death
of James I. of Aragon, Landing of the ciptive Francis 1. of France at
Valencia; Franc. Domingo^ St. Thecla, St. Marianus; Bern. Ferrandig, Tri-
bunal of the Waters (p. 259) ; Salvador Abril^ On the open sea. — East
end : *Josi Benlliure^ The Vision of the Colosseum, representing a ghostly
procefsioa of all the Christian martyrs, marshalled by St. Almachius
(d. 404), the last of their niunber. — West end: Franc. Atnirigo^ Sacking
of Borne in 1627.
Adjacent, to the left, Is the Abgkaological Collbotxon. Archi-
tectural fragments; alabaster figure of Hugo de Moncada, from the former
Convento del Bemedio (16th cent.): statue of Miguel Amador (i7th cent.);
wooden group of Virgin and Child (l5th cent.); alabaster statue of St. Vin-
cent the Martyr, from the Monasterio de la Boqueta (16th cent.) ; copy of the
Virgin of Montserrat (p. 224); cannon (15th cent.), cannon balls, and anchor
found at El Grao; marble relief of St. George (16th cent.): early-Christian
sarcophagus from the Convent of Santo Domingo (5th cent.).
The ♦Puerta de Berranos (Torres de Serranos; PI. C, D, 2), the
old N. gate of the city, is an interesting structure of the second half
of the 14th century. It has long been used as a prison, but it has
recently been restored and freed of disfiguring additions. It is best
seen from the Puente de Serranos or the pretty paseo of the same name.
Two massive crenelated towers flank a central structure, the beautiful
Gothic tracery of which is admirable. The towers are rectangular in
plan, but ttie edges of their river-faces have been chamfered off so as to
make a triangle. About two-thirds of the way up a kind of gallery, sup-
ported on corbels, is carried round the exposed sides of the gateway, but
262 Boute 25. VALENCIA. Citadel.
•erres (rather as an architectural ornament than for any more formidable
purpose. A second gangway i runs higher up along the central structure
and enters the towers by doors. The actual archway is comparatively low.
The broad bed of the Turia is usually dry. Beyond it we tra-
verse the Arrabal de Murviedro to (12 min.) the Hieronymite convent
of San Miguel de los Reyes^ founded by the Duqne de Calahria in
1641 and now the Presidio (prison). — A little lower down the river,
beyond the Puente de la Trinidadj built in 1356, stands the Hospital
Militar (PI. E, 1), occupying the old Convento de San -Pio Quinto.
The dome is covered with beautiful azulejos.
We follow the right bank. Immediately to the right is the Colegio
de Loreto (PI. E, 2); farther on are the church of the Trinitarioa
and the Temple (PI. F, 2). The last was built for the Templars on
the site of the Moorish Alibufat (?), on which the Spaniards first
erected the cross, and was afterwards occupied by the Order of Mon-
tesa (p. 270). In the reign of Charles III. it was practically rebuilt.
A little farther on is the Puente del Real (PI. F, G, 1), the Moorish
Jerea ('bridge of the law'), a massive stone bridge with ten openings.
It leads to the tree-shaded Llano del Real (PI. F, 2). Adjacent
are two artificial hills, overgrown with rank vegetation and forming
the only remains of the Jardin del Realj which was attached to a
small royal villa. — At the Llano del Real begins the Alameda
(PI. G, H, I, 1), an avenue of plane-trees, which extends down the
river to the (i^ M.) Puente del Mar and forms the fashionable after-
noon-drive of the Valencians. At both ends of it are fountains. —
We may now take the tramway vilt the Puente del Mar to the Glo-
rieta (see below), or we may return via the Puente del Real.
In the Plaza de Tbtuan (PI. G, 2), formerly named the Plaza
de Santo Domingo ^ lies the old Citadel, built by Charles V. to pro-
tect the town against the pirate Barbarossa. It incorporated the
convent of Santo Domingo , founded by Jaime I., and was almost
destroyed by Suchet in 1812. The finest parts remaining are the
Doric portal and the tower, with its graceful upper stage. The ex-
tensive buildings enclose two or three attractive patios and are used
for an arsenal, artillery barracks, and the dwelling of the Captain
General. The Capilla Castrence is an interesting castle-like building,
with alabaster windows and the castrum (catafalque) of Marshal
Roderigo Mendoza (d. 1654) and his wife. The buildings also include
the Capilla de San Vicente Ferrer, where that saint assumed the cowl.
The inscriptions on the outside refer to the Morosco,war (1869-60)
and to St. Vincent Ferrer.
The Casa Natalizia, or house in which St. Vincent was born (1419 ;
canonized 1455) , is at Calle del Mar 117 and has been converted into a
chapel. — In the church of San E$t4ban (PI. E, 2) the anniversary of the
baptism of the saint (April 5th) is celebrated on the Sun. after Easter by
the erection of a large group of figures.
The Plaza de Tetuan is adjoined on the S.E. by the Olorieta
\. G, H, 3), a charming pleasure-ground laid out by Elio in 1817
Lonja de Id Seda, VALENCIA. 25. Route. 263
on the site of the old glacis, and planted with palms, pines, and
araacarias. There are also a drinking-spring and an entranoe-arch
of bamboo (W. side). — The Tobacco Faotoet (PI. H, 3), on the
8.E. side of the Glorieta, built for a custom-house in 1758, is one
of the largest in Spain, employiog 3600 women, most of whom are
very expert in rolling cigars (adm. on application to the porter).
To the S. of the Qlorieta lies another garden named the Plaza
DEL Pbincipb Alfonso (PI. G, H, 3), which is embellished with a
bronze Equestrian Statue of James I. ofAragon (1213-76), by Agapito
Vallmitjana (1891). — From this plaza the Calle de la Nave leads
to the S.W. to the Plaza del Colegio del Patriaroa (p. 266), and the
Plaza and Calle de las Barcas to the Plaza de San Francisco (p. 255),
while the Calle del Poeto QuinUna runs to the S.£. to the Calls
DE CoLdN (PI. H, 4, 6, 6), forming part of the ring of boulevards
mentioned at p. 256. Near its S. end is the Plaza de Tores (p. 265).
Our walk through the S.W. quarters of the city may be begun at
the FlaiA del Mereado (PI. D, K, 4, 5 ), the largest aud most inter-
esting of the open spaces of Valencia. It is always more or less
frequented, and the picturesque costumes of the peasantry of the
neighbourhood may be seen here to great advantage during the
morning markets. It was formerly the scene of tournaments and
festivals, and many notable events are connected with it. It was here
that the Cid, mindless of his oath, caused Ahmed Ibn Djihdf to be
burned alive, because he would not reveal the spot where King
Yahya had buried his treasures. The best general view is obtained
from the S.E.. comer. — On the N. side of the plaza stands the —
*Loiija de la 8eda (PI. D, 4; 'Silk Exchange]), a beautiful
Gothic building, erected by Pedro Compte{'i) in 1482 and restored
in 1892-96. The site is that of the Moorish Alcazar, built by a
daughter of King Al-Hoikim aud afterwards occupied by Ximena, wife
of the Cid. The richly decorated Maim Fa9adb is 178 ft. long and
is divided vertically into three sections. In the middle rises a kind
of tower, with two Gothic windows, the lower of which is pointed,
the upper square-headed. To the E. of this central tower lies the '
part of the building containing the main hall (p. 264), with a
large gateway and two windpws. Above the windows are coats- of-
arms, and at the top are battlements and four artistic gargoyles (gur^
gokui). The W. part of the facade has two rows of square-headed
Gothic windows, with four in each. Above is an elegant gallery,
with a frieze of heads ; and at the top are crown-like battlements
and three gargolas. The openings of the gallery are 'pierced in a
sort of continuous arcading, the pinnacles of which run up to and
finish in the parapet*. — The West Building contains the dwelling
of the castellan (alcaide) and the council-room of the Chamber of
Commerce, containing a few royal portraits and a deeply coffered
264 Bouie 25. VALENCIA. San Nieolds,
wooden ceiling. Here also are the chamber of the Juzgados Comtuv-
aZe9, and a court and orange - garden , surrounded by walls with
beautiful ajimez windows and crenelated battlements. — The entire
height and depth of the East Building is occupied by the ♦•Ex-
CHAKOB Hall, which is 118 ft. long and 70 ft. wide. Its rich star
vaulting is borne by two rows of spiral pillars (eight in all), to which
correspond twelve pilasters embedded in the walls. The whole
makes an impression of exceeding boldness, lightness, and elegance ;
and the columns look like a stone forest of palms. — The side
facades of the Lonja on the E. and W. also repay inspection.
A little to the N. of the Lonja (Galle Angosta de la Compania 2) lies
the Archive General del Beino de Valencia ^ contaioiDg an important collec-
tion of charters and documents (open on week-days, 9-1). — The church
of Los Scmioe Juanet (PI. D, 4, 5), on the 8. side of the Mercado, opposite
the Lonja, has a ceiling-painting by Falomino and some rococo decora-
tions, but hardly repays a visit.
The narrow streets to the N.W. of the Mercado lead through the
oldest part of Valencia to the church of Ban HicoUs (PI. C, D, 4),
originally a mosque, as is easily seen in the curious ceiling. It has,
however, been spoiled by modem additions. The frescoes are by
Dionis Vidal^ a pupil of Palomino. The large gilded retablo and the
stained-glass windows are also interesting, but the prime reason for
a visit to this church is found in the ♦Paintings of Juanes, Over
the altar to the left of the high-altar are a Last Supper (under glass)
and eight smaller pictures. Those at the right side-altar are also by
Juanes, but partly executed by his pupils. Other works of his are
seen at an altar in one of the aisles, and in the sacristy are half-
lengths of Christ and the Virgin. Above the W. door of the church
is a portrait of Pope Calixtus III. (p. 269), once one of the clergy of
the church and donor of the silver Chalice kept in the sacristy.
The Galle db Gaballebos (p. 260), to the N.W. of San Nicolas,
and its S.W. prolongation, the Calls db Guabtb (PI. C, B, 4, 5),
contain a number of inteiesUTig Private Residences, the external archi-
tecture of which may be easily studied by passing through the ever-
open portal and vestibule (zaguan) into the patio. The latter is often
oval in form and surrounded by a colonnaded gallery. Imposing
staircases ascend to the upper floors.
The Galle de Cuarte leads to the S.W. to the Faerta de Cuarte
(^Torres de Cuarte; PI. B, 5), the old W. door of Valencia, a massive
structure erected in 1444 , or about a century later than the Puerta
de Serranos. It resembles the latter in plan and is also used as a
prison. The two outer towers are here replaced by semicircular cubes j
and the gallery supported by corbels runs along the central structure
only. The two towers, with their small openings, are also surmounted
by passages for the use of the defenders.
A few hundred paces to the S.W. lies the Jardin Botinico
(PI. A, 6, 6 ; adm. free, fee to the conserje 30 c), which shows a fine
irray of sub-tropioal plants, such as the Polygala grandiflora and P.
Exeursiom. VALENCIA. 25. RouU, 265
fpedota (beantiful violet blossoms in MaTch), Araueafia exeelsa^ A,
Cookii, YueeafilamaUota^ CoccolohapeUata^ Eucalyptua glohului, etc.
T^e Calls ds Odillxm dk Castbo, running paet the Puerta de Guarie
and forming the S.W. part of the ring of boulevards (p. 255), is uninter-
esting, aa are its prolongation the Calle de JJLtiva and the poor S. parts
of the city generally. — A little to the V. of the first-named street (at
Vo. 16 Galle del Hospital) lies the Boepital Frovineial (PI. D, £, 7), erected
in 1494 for foundlings, the sick, and the mentally afflicted. — To the £.
of this building, in the Plaza Porteria de San Agustin, is the Preaidio de
Baa AfuatlB (PI. E, 7), a model penitentiary, founded in 1887 by Mcmua
liomteMnoM, It may be visited between eleven and one, on application to
the Director. The Cuarto Sectoral contains a few pictures by RibaUOy in-
cluding one representing St. Thomas of Yillanueva, the founder of the
Augustine CoUege, in the midst of his popils. The tomb of the saint is
in the chnreh of San AgtuUn (PI. F, 7). — To the S. of the CaUe de J4tiva,
beyond the railway, stands the Bull King (Plata de Torot; PI. G, H, 6, 7),
erected in 1867-60 and accommodating 17,0()0 spectators.
Excursions.
1. SI Oxao {grcidus^ the ^step' to the sea), tbe celebrated but
rather uninteresting harbour of Valencia, lies on the N. side of the
mouth of the Turia. It may be reached either by BAiL>YAy (3 M. ;
trains nearly every hour; fares 90, 60, 30 c; comp. p. 252) or by the
Stbam Tbaitwat mentioned at p. 263 (2^/4 M.). The latter runs
from the Plaza de Tetuan across the Puente del Real and through the
Alameda. Farther on it is generally shaded by plane-trees and af-
fords pleasant views of alquerioB (country-houses), manufactories,
and the straw-roofed chotas of the peasants. The termini of both
railway and tramway lie in the little town of Vitlanuevo del (Trao,
to the S.W. of the harbour. — At the Harbour itself, which is shel-
tered by two huge moles (muelles; good views), are the two sea-
bathing resorts of La Florida and La Esirella (comp. p. 253). In the
'temporada' or season (mid-June to Oct) a horse-tramway (10 c.)
runs to the N. from the terminus of the steam- tram way to (2/3 M.)
the Cabaiial (Pueblo Nuevo del Mar), a village built solely for the use
of bathers and containing the establishment Las Arenas (see p. 253).
The chief festival of the village takes place on St. John's Eve.
2. The Albafera max be \isited either from station SiUa (p. 268;
8 M., in 1/2 lir. ; fares 1 p. 66, 1 p. 20, 70 c.) by Boat, or (better)
from Valencia by Tartana (I3/4 hr. ; fare, see p. 253). — The road,
which is shadeless and hardly practicable after rain, leads from the
Puente del Mar (p. 262) past the Convento de Monte Oliveto, which
has been converted into a barrack. (Hard by is a Ventorillo^ where
wine for the trip may be procured.) It then continues down the
right bank of the Turia, turning to the right at (20 min.) the cross
roads. Soon after we come in sight of the Canal de Isabella Segunda,
which leads to the Albufera. The curious marshy smell of the lake
is distinctly perceptible ; the monotonous landscape recalls the marsh
lands of N. (Jermany. We Anally reach the Dehesa (p. 266) and
(5^2 M.) Bal^r, a fishing-village connected with the Albufera by the
266 Route 25. VALBNGIA. Excursions.
aboye- named canal. — Fiom this point the traveller should not
neglect to make a trip by boat (2-3 p. per hr. ; bargain necessary)
to the Mata del Fang (see below). The scenery is very singular. At
one time we traverse vast tracts of reeds, at another we enjoy un-
impeded views of the mountains to the S. (Yirgen de Cull4ra,
Mongdy Sierra de las Agujas) and to the W., where the sharp-pointed
Picaseni is conspicuous. Valencia with its numerous domes is also
visible. To the N. we descry Sagunto and the Desierto de las Palmas
(p. 247). The sea is hidden by the Dehesa. — If time permit, we
should also walk across the Dehesa to (20 min.) the sea-shore. The
sand-dunes are covered with sea -pines (Pinus maritima), broom,
and sand-plants. The Winter Beach (^^uatenus hibenms fluctus
maximus excurrit*) stretches far up the low sandy shore.
The Albufera (Arab. al-huhSra, lagoon) is the last relic of the sea that
once covered the coast-plain of Valencia (comp. p. 241), but its waters
have long been fresh. On the landward side its curving outline is 15-
18 M. long and is bordered by reed-banks and rice-swamps*, its seaward
side forms a straight line of about 10 M. in length and is divided from
the sea by the Deheta^ a narrow strip of land 6-20 ft. high. About 6 M .
to the S. of Sal^r (p. 265) the Albufera is connected with the sea by
the canal of PereW^ which may be closed at will. The village of Fdtomdr
lies on this part of the Dehesa. The Acequia del Rey^ an outlet of the
Turia, and other small channels are constantly conveying fresh water
into the Albufera, the depth of which varies from 3 ft. to 12 ft. according
to the season. Kear the middle of the lake is La Mata cM Fang^ a shoal
overgrown with reeds. The Albufera contains numerous fish, especially
eels (anffuiku)^ which are caught in peculiar nets (tnometts) and pierced
with many-pronged harpoons (fiiora*). Large flocks of ducks and other
waterfowl also haunt the lake. The Dehesa is almost entirely covered
with woods, which shelter rabbits (conejot) and woodcocks (ffoWnekUy
chochas). — To the S. of the Albufera lie the towns of CuUira and Sueca
(see p. 268). To the W. of it, but at some distance, lie the villages of
Albalat de la Ribera^ Masanaaa^ Akntnqfet, Benifojfdj BiUa, Catarroja, and
Alfafar (p. 265). Host of the inhabitants of these ^rice-viUages' cultivate
rice and suffer greatly from malarial fever. Farther to the W. the chief
crop is wheat. Large water-wheels are used to drain the land near the
lake. In summer the mosqiutoes are rery troublesome. — Originally the
Albufera belonged to the Covmit de Uu Torret^ afterwards it passed into the
hands of the crown, and at the beginning of the 19th cent, it was conferred
upon the 'Prince of the Peace' (p. 121). In 1812 Napoleon presented it to
Marshal Sachet, who also received the title of Due de Albufera. At pre-
sent it is once more the property of government but has been leased to
a company at Valencia, which has an office at Sal^r and a number of
shooting-stations (pueitos de yerros) on the lake. On Nov. 11th and Nov.
25th the shooting on the lake is free to all (comp. p. 254); at other times
permission must be obtained from the Jntendente del Real Pairimonio in
Valencia. The value of the Albufera is estimated at 10,000,000 p. (400,000 /.).
3. Manises lies 3 M. to the W. of Valencia, on the dusty and
uninteresting road to Chiva and Requena. It may be reached either
by carriage, via Mislata^ or by the narrow-gauge railway to Liria
(p. 252 J 41/2 M. in V4 hr. 5 fares 66, 50, 30 c). The village contains
about a score of azulejo factories, employing 1600 workmen, and
visitors are usually admitted (fee to guide 1 p.).
The tawny clay used in the manufacture otAtvIeJoi (p. xzxviii) is dug at
"'<"1ata and ground dry in a mill. It is then placed in flat iron moulds or
and receives a stamp (timbre) from the pressure of a fly-wheel (vo-
ExeurnoriB, VALENCIA. 26, BouU. 267
kmt§). The unbaked aznl^os are next removed from the moulds and fired
(qtumado) for 16-17 hrs. in an oven. They are then rubbed with starch
(lour (hctrina de abnoddm). When this dries, they are coated with a fluid glase
or varniah (banUs enido)^ consisting of a mixture of tin ashes (esloflo;, lead
ashes (plomo)^ soda (harriHa)^ and a little sand (arena viva). This glaze
forms an excellent surface for the colours, which are applied by stenciUing
(trepat). The tiles are then placed on end and fired for 60 hrs. more. The
fire is fed, neither with coal nor dry wood, but with evergreen plants
such as broom (aliaffa)^ lavender, and thymes and large heaps of this
singular fuel are seen on every side. Other heaps of olive-branches are used
for the firing of bricks (ladriUot; roofing tiles, tejoi ; sun-dried bricks, adobes).
4. Xeliana, 3 M. to the N. of Valencia, on tbe narrow - gauge
railway to RafeUmnol (p. Q52 ; 41/2 M., in 1/4 br.; fares 60, 36, 20 c),
is now sometimes visited for the sake of the Nolla Mosaic Factory.
The mosaics form admirable pavements and can also take the place
of azolejos as wall linings. There is a depot for their sale in the
Plaza del Colegio del Patriaroa (p. 256). Those who drive to Meliana
pass the large Cemetery of Valencia.
5. Bnrjaiot, a pleasure-resort 21/2 M. to the N.W. of Valencia,
a station on the Betera railway (comp. p. 252 ; 3 M., in ^4 hr. ; fares
85, 25, 15 c), may be visited for the sake of the 41 Moorish Maz-
morrat (also called Sichet and Silos')^ used as receptacles for grain.
Their roof, consisting of blue and black flag- stones, is used as a
pas^o or promenade. The mazmorras themselves are underground
vaults, resembling huge jars and lined with stone. — From BHera^
the terminus of the railway (12 M., in 1 hr. ; fares 1 p. 50, 1 p. 10,
70 c), we may make an ex<^urslon to the suppressed Cartnja de
Portacoeli, which lies to the N.W., in the direction of Oloeau, This
convent was founded by Bishop AndrSs de AJbalat in 1272, amid the
recesses of the coast-mountains of Valencia, and once possessed art
treasures of great value. Alonso Cano retired to it and painted
several of his works here. The entire district, which is famed for its
'vino rancio', was occupied by the Moriscoes (p. 245) down to 1609.
Excursion to Bagunto and Segorbe^ see pp. 248, 251 ; to Carcagente, Oandia^
and DiniOf see B. 2(.
26. From Valencia to Carcagente and La Encina
(Madrid, Cordova y Alicante, Murcia).
70 H. Railway (two through-trains daily) in 41/4-6 hrs. (fares 13 p. 35,
10 p. 10, 5 n. 90 c). There are also two local trains from Valencia to
Jdtiva (p. 269), and one from JAtiva to La Encina. — Passengers who wish
to proceed direct to Madrid (R. 29) or vift Alcdzar to Cdrdova (RR. 29, 33)
should take the train leaving Valencia at 2.10 p.m. This reaches La Encina
(dining station) at 6.25 p.m^ ChinchiUa at 9.18 p.m., Alcdzar (carriages
changed for C6rdova) at 1.25 a.m., Madrid at 6.36 a.m., and C6rdova at
11.7 a.m. — The following plan may he recommended for a visit to Oandia^
Dinia (R. 27), and Alicante (R. 29). 1st Day. We leave Valencia at 6 a.m.,
and CarcagenUy where carriages are changed, at 8.5 a.m., reaching J)inia at
11.5 a.m. 2nd Day. We leave D4nia at 11.45 a.m. and reach Oandia at
1.9 p.m. At 6.82 p.m. we start for Aletnf^ reaching it at 9.1 p.m. 3rd Day.
Diligence from Alcoy to Alicante (a charming drive). — With the direa
journey from Valencia to Alicante we may combine a visit to Jdtiva. Leaving
268 RouU 26. SILLA. From Valencia
Valencia at 2.10 p.m., we reach Jdtiva at 3.68 p.m. and leave it again at
9.40 p.m. This brings us at midnight to La EnciTtOy whence we stMrt
again at 2.13 a.m., reaching AUamte at 5.20 a.m. (Unrcia at 9.55 a.m.^. —
Those who wish to go straight through to Mweia (R. 91) should choose
the route via CMncMUa. We leave Valencia at 2.10 p.m., reach CkindtiUa
(carriages changed) at 9.18 p.m. and leave it at 11 p.m., and reach Murcia
at 6.28 a.m. {Cariagma at 9 90 a.m.).
Second-class and third-class passengers for Madrid and Cdrdova must
change carriages at La Endna also.
Valencia^ see p. 262. — The railway traverses the huerta towards
the S.W. and approaches the Alhufera (p. 266) at <33/4 M.) Alfafar.
Fine views are enjoyed of the mountains to the W. , and of the
Sierra de las Agujas^ the 8, de CuUira^ and the Mongd to the S. —
5 M. Catarroja. To the left are the pine- woods of the Dehesa (p. 266).
8 M. Silla, a small town of 3800 inhab. , with a handsome church
and many palms.
From Silla a Branch Railway (16 M., in iVi hr. : fares 3 p. 20, 2 p. 20,
1 p. 55 c.) runs to the S.E., via (6 H.) Soltana and (12V2 M.) Sueca (12,800
inhab.), to Oullera, a town of 11,400 inhab., prettily situated on the left
bank of the Jdcar (the Roman Sucro\ near the promontory of its own
name. It is dominated by a rained castle and the conspicuous chapel of
the Virgm de Cullera. The road from Gullera to Tabemes (p. 271) is a
prolongation of the old Roman road from Silla to Gullera.
Our Une passes (right) the Arab Torre de Espioca and reaches
(13^2 ^O Btnifayd de Espioca, The soil becomes of a reddish-
brown colour. We cross the watershed between the Turia and the
AlgemegC. — 16 M. Alginet. We traverse another Tierra de RegadCo
(p. 244) and reach a tract of rice-flelds (left). To the E. we still
see the Mong6 and the Cabo de San Antonio.
20 M. Algemes'C, on the river of that name, which joins the Mcar
(see above) a little lower down. The chief crop in this district is
cacao, sown in May and reaped in October. To the left rise the jag-
ged and volcano-like heights of the Sierra de las Agujas and also the
Sierra de CuUera^ with the 'Virgen' (see above). Across the former
runs the branch-line to D^nia. To the right is the Sierra del Ave.
23 M. Alcira^ a town of 15,300 inhab., on the right bank of the
Jucar, which the railway crosses here. The fertile soil bears a great
many palms and orange-trees , but fever-breeding rice-swamps are
also prevalent. A little to the W. is the village of Masalavis (see
below). The vegetation increases in luxuriance.
2o M. Carcagente, a town of 9600 inhab., amid a forest of orange
trees and palms, above which rise a number of factory-chimneys,
looking curiously out of place. The . former Dominican Nunr^ry
contains a fine altar-pieee by Fran. Ribalta. The numerous mulberry
trees testify to the silk-culture of the neighbourhood.
From Carcagente to Diniay see R. 27.
The main line ascends the mountain-valley of the Jucar. To the
right lie the rice-flelds of Masalavis and Alberique (see below). —
27^2 M. Puebla Larga, the station for Alberique^ which lies on the
W. bank of the Jucar.
3OV2 M. Manuel. To the right is the Castillo de Sentana. The
to La Eneina, JATIVA. 2tf. noute. 269
train crosses the little river Albdida (p. 274) by a bridge of seyen
arches, each 52 ft in span, and then the torrent of Carraixet and the
Monteea (p. 270). To the left, in a charming hnerta, is the Ermita
de 8anta Ana, The scenery becomes piotaresqne and imposing.
^^ 36 M. JitiTft (Fonda de MaUol, Galle de Moncada 30, vith oaf<(
and baths ; Fonda de Espanaj near the rail, station \ Railway Re-
8taurant)y a town of 13,100 inhab., the SaetiSds of the Romans and
said to be of Phoenician origin , received its present name from the
Moors. Its linen cloth is praised by Pliny and Martial. It was the
seat of a Visigothic bishop. Jaime I. of Aragon captured the town
in 1244. The first of the Bourbons, in consequence of its obstinate
defence in the War of the Spanish Succession, rechristencd it San
FSUpe, but the new name did not long remain in vogue. — Jativa
was the birthplace of JuBepe Bibera (p. Mi), and it was long the
home of the notorious family of Borj^ or Borgia^ which originated in
Borja (p. 174). Among the most prominent members of this family
were Alfonao Borja (Pope Galixtus III. ; 1466-68), Bod/rigo Borja
sPope Alexander VI.; 1492-16081 Caesar (1478-1607), the natural
(on of Rodrigo, and Luerelia (1480-1619), his natural daughter. San
Frandsco de Borja (1610-72), Director General of the Order of the
Jesuits, was a son of Juan Borja^ Duke of Gandia (p. 272), another
son of Pope Alexander VI.
The town, which is still quite Moorish in character and was long
notorious for the lawlessness of its inhabitants , is finely situated at
the N. base of the Monte Bemisa, the two peaks of which each bear
a castle. Numerous fountains, fed by the springs of Bellus (p. 274)
and Santa, rise in all parts of the town, and there are said to be 600
in the patios of the houses. The railway-station lies to the N.W., in
the midst of the smiling huerta, and between it and the town runs .
the elm-shaded Alameday with the Fuente de Leon. The most char-
acteristic among the quaint buildings on this avenue is the Nunnery
of Santa Claras the barred windows and wooden shutters of which
are thoroughly Oriental in appearance.
On entering the town , we first wend oui way to the Plaza de
Balsa, which affords a fine view of the high-lying Castillo. We
ascend across this plaza to the Plaza de Spanoleto and then proceed
to the left through the Galle de Puerta de Santa Tecla to the Plaza
de la Seo, on the W. side of which is the Hospital Municipal Civil.
with its rich fagade. On the E. side stands the Gothic GoLEOiATiL
DB San Fbliu, formerly the cathedral , erected in 1414 but since
wholly modernized. The W. facade has been left unfinished. To
the N. is a large detached Campanile,
The Iktebios haa almost the form of a Greek cross, in wMch the
transept is as important as the nave. The Bigh Altar is adorned with fine
marble columns from the quarries of BuixearrOy in the Sierra Qro$a^ 20 M.
to the S.W. The Choir Screen should also be noticed. The festival of the
Hinojo (fennel) is celebrated on Sept. 1st at the Altar of iSan Gil.
We now proceed to the N., through a bye-street, to the pictui-
270 Route 26. MONTESA.
esque Callb de Monoada, the main thoroughfare of the town,
containing the FaenU de M<mcada and many large mansions {Casa
de Salvador 8a$h8, Qua del Arcon, etc.), the elaborate door-knockers
(aniUos) of which deserve attention. This street leads to the £. to
the OoalOy a shady promenade with the Fibeate de lot Veinte y CSmtro
Canot ('pipes'). Below is a rice-mill. — To the E. of the Ovalo
rises the cypress-planted CcUvariOf which is best ascended from the
N. (the windings on the S. side are interminable). It commands a
splendid view of the town, the valley, the castle to the S. , and the
precipitous sides of the Bernisa.
From the Ovale we ascend to the * Gastlb. About halfway up
lies the Ermita de San Feliu (view), formerly a Mozarabic church
(see p. 243), with horseshoe-arches, ancient pillars , and the Roman
inscription : FuMo L, F, A still more extensive view is obtained
from the Torre de la Campana, or tower of the castle. The approach
to the castle, with its walls and towers and gates, is an interesting
survival of the Hispano-Mor esque style of fortification. — Among
the numerous political prisoners confined in this fortress were the
Infantes de la Cerda, the legitimate heirs to the throne of Aragon
but ousted by Sancho IV. in 1284 ; the Duke of Calabria^ Crown
Prince of Naples, under Ferdinand the Catholic ; and Cesa/re Borgia^
imprisoned here by the *Gran Capitan' (p. 309).
The Convent of Mont 8a»t^ near the Ermita de San Feliu, has a Moorish
cistern.
We return to the Ovalo, and proceed to the N. to the Alameda
(p. 269) , where We soon reach the gate leading to the railway.
From Jitiva to Aleoy and Alicante^ see B. 28.
The Railway to La Enoina turns to the S.W. from Jativa, fol-
lowing the old^ highroad, enters the valley of Mogente^ which is
watered by the Montesa^ and crosses the river by a bridge with a
span of 185 ft. Retrospect of J&tlva. The exuberance of the Va-
lencian huerta gradually diminishes. We enter the region of olives.
39 V2 M. AUsadia de Creapim. Near (43 M.) Mcmieaa, to the W.,
stands the Fitdra Encantada, a 'rocking-stone' weighing about 250
tons, which may be set in motion with a finger.
47 M. Vallada. As we proceed, we see to the right the ruins of
the castle of Montesa, which was overthrown by an earthquake in
1748. This castle gave its name to the Order of Montesaj founded
in 1318 to succeed the Knights Templar.
50 M. Mogente^ a small and ancient town founded by the Moors,
in a fruitful district. — The train now ascends rapidly along the N.
slope of the MorUana de Mariagaj between the Sierra de Engvjera on
the N. and the Sierra Orosa on the S. Just before entering the
Mariana Tunnel (1 M. long) we have a fine retrospect, extending
to the distant coast-plain of Valencia. This view is particularly
striking to the traveller coming in the other direction. . .
62 M. Fuente la Higuera^ a high-lying place with 3300 inhab.,
belonging geographicajly to the plateau of Castile. The sudden
GANDIA. 27. Route. 271
transition from the sab- tropical luxuriance of Valencia to these
cold steppes is very striking in winter. — The line curves towards
the S. and then runs to the N.W. to (70 M.) La Encina (p. 279).
27. From Carcagente (Valencia) to Oandia and D6nia.
42 H. Railway (two trams daily) in 3-31/4 hrs. ; fares 6 p. 75, 4 p. 45,
2 p. SOe. (fi^m Valencia, 67 H., in 5 hrs. ; fares 11 p. 60, 8 p. 5e., 5 p.).
There i§ also a local train from Carcagente to Qandia. Good second-class
carriages. "So railway-restaurant.
The scenery on this trip is among the finest in Spain. The chief point
is D^nia, with the Mongd. The hotels are, however, very indifferent.
Those who content themselves with Carcagente and Gandfa can make the
excursion in one day.
From Valeneia to (25 M.) CarcagerUe, see R. 26.
The narrow-gauge railway to D^nia makes a wide sweep to the
S. through the orange-groves of Carcagente and then runs to the
S.£. through a mountain- valley intersecting the If. spurs of the
Sierra de las Agujoi and farther on descending towards the sea,
where it is called the VaUdigna, As we pass beyond the hounds
of artificial irrigation , the vegetation becomes more scanty. The
cultivated fields 'are small, the trees are more or less stunted,
and brushwood abounds. With the exception of the Convenio de
Aguaa Vivas on the height to the right, the W. side of the valley is
almost uninhabited. We pass through a rocky cutting and obtain
a fine view of the Valldigna, with its lofty mountain- walls. The
train skirts the N. side of this valley. IOV2 M. Simat de Valldigna,
I2V2 M. Tahernes de VaUdignOj in a charming and sheltered
situation, artificially watered by a ^nacimiento\ Large fields of
strawberries (fresalts). The windows of the houses are unglazed.
A road runs from Tabernes to Cullera (p. 268), the walls of which
are visible to the left, in the distance.
The railway runs to the S.E. through a level district of ri( e
fields (arrozdUsJ. To the left, 1V2-2M. distant, is the row of pines
marking the sea-beach; to the right are the mountains. We cross
the Jardco. 17 M. Jaraco; 18 M. Jeresa. To the right is the Castillo
de San Juan, This region is watered by the crystal-clear Fuente de
San Juan, We enter the fertile Huerta of Oandia, dominated by the
Ermita de Santa Ana and the peaked Monduve or Monduber (27^0 ft.).
22Y2M. Oftndia (^Fonda de Juan Besos ; Brit vice-consul), a town
of 7200 inhab., situated in the richest and most populous huerta of
the kingdom of Valencia, 21/2 M. from the sea. It lies on the left
bank of the little river AUoy or SirpiSy which descends from Alcoy
(p. 274) and has the small harbour of El Orao at its mouth.
From the railway-station, which lies to the E. of the town , we
proceed to the right, through the gate, to the Colegio de Escuela Pia^
founded by San Francisco de Borja (p. 269). Hence the narrow
Calle Mayor leads to the Plaza de la Congtituclon, in which stands
the Iglesia CoUgial^ a Gothic structure without aisles. The W. and
272 Route 27. D^NIA. From CareagerUe
S. port&ls are adorned with good sculptures in the Fiencli Gothic
style, and the retablo of the high-altar contains paintings by Pablo
deSan Leocadio (p.lzx). — We then pass to the W. across another large
plaza, and farther on obtain a fine and extensive view of the Jifon-
tana de Borel and the Monduve (p. 271). We next return to the
S. to the Puerta de OUva, adjoining which is the former Palace of
the Bof^aa (p. 269), Dukes of Gandfa, with fine stucco-work and
paintings by Gaspar de la Huerta (d. 1714). A few more paces
bring us to the Bridge over the Alcoy (view).
A Bbangh Railway (33 M., in ca. 2 brs. •, fares 6 p. 40, 8 p. 80, 2 p. 70 c.)
runs from the Grao or Puerto di Oandia to Mcoy. — The train stops at
(2V2 M.) Oandia and then runs to the S.W. up the valley of the Alcoy.
71/2 M. Pdtriet; 91/2 M. ViUaUmga; 171/2 M. Lcreha; 22 M. Beniarrii; 27 M.
J/iuro, with 2600 inhabitants. To the right tower the sheer limestone cliffs
of the * Sierra de BerUeadeU^ singularly narrow range of hills, torn away
from the AquUerU on the S.W. by the deep fissure of the Puerto del Beni-
cadell (p. 274). — 29V2 M. Ooncentaina^ on the highroad from Albaida to
Alcoy. ~ 83 H. Aleop, see p. 274.
The Railw at to D^nia crosses the Alcoy and passes the villages
of Pilos and Bellreguwrt. — 2772 M. Oliva, a town of 8600 inhab.,
charmingly situated on the slope of the CoUina de Santa Ana amid
groves of olives and mulberries. — To the right are the Calvario
and the Ermita de San Pedro. The famous *Pasa8 (raisins) de Va-
lencia* grow here and are dried in the vineyards themselves.
The train approaches the fine mountain-range to the S., which
begins to the E. with the Monte Segdria, To the W. are the Mte. Ca-
bal^ the Mte. Negro^ and the Sierra de Ebo, at the foot of which lies the
large village of Pego. The isolated Mong6 becomes more conspicuous.
At (33 M.) MolinH the train crosses the outlet of the small Logo
de Oliva^ a relic of the sea that once overspread this sandy plain.
At (36 M.) Vergil^ the first place in the province of Alicante, begins
the road to Alcoy. We cross the Ebo and pass Ondara (right).
42 M. D^nia (Fonda del Comercio; Fonda de la Marina; Hot,
Peninsular; U.S. vice-consul, Anibrosio Bordehore; British vice-
consul, Jos, Ramos Morand; Lloyd's Agents, Morand ^ Co,), a town
of 13,500 inhab., Is finely situated on the £. and S. sides of a hill
crowned by a ruined castle. To the S., separated from the town by
the valley of the Vergel, rises the Mongis (2335 ft.), a limestone hill
rising gently from W. to E. and then falling abruptly to the sea.
The flat roofs (azoteas) of the houses afford excellent vantage-ground
for views of the fine scenery. Denia carries on a brisk export-trade
in raisins, sent largely to England and the United States.
D^nia, the ArtWiitiwn of the Greeks and the Dianium of the Romans,
was founded by Phoceeans from Hassilia (Marseilles) or Bmporiee (p. 18S),
perhaps on the site of an earlier Phoeniciaa colony. It soon attained so
great importance, that Sertorius made it his naval station (iSifra&o, III.
239). The Arabs under Tarik captured it in 715, and from 1031 on it
formed part of the kingdom of Hurcia, afterwards Incorporated with Va-
lencia. The Christians recaptured it in 1253. Under the Moors Denia is
said to have contained 60,1*00 inhab., but its harbour has become flUed
with sand and the ships have to anchor in the unprotected roads. The
to DefUa. M^NCK). 27, Route. 273
ez^flion of Che MoriMOM in 1010 wm also a heavy blow to the town.
It waa thrica besieged during the War of the Spanish 8ac«es8ion, and it
waa the scene of the last straggles with the French in 1813. The French
garriaoB in the CasUUo, reduced at last to 100 men, withstood a bombard-
ment for live months and finally surrendered on condition of being allowed
to depart in freedom.
From the railway-station, near which several handsome new
streets have been laid ont on the site of the old fishermen's quarter,
we proceed first to the Mbkcado, or market-place. We then go on
towards the E., passing the Casino Dianense (left) and crossing the
Vergel, to the harbour, where are the remains of the old Town WalU^
probably erected in the Arab period. Adjacent, on the land side, is a
modem signalling-tower for vessels entering the port. It commands
an excellent view of the Mong6 and Its E. prolongation , with the
Ca$iUio dd Moro, the Ermita de San NicoUia, and the Torre del
Carroi.
Skirting the harbour, we reach the E. base of the castle-hill,
where there is an old and neglected bailding, supposed to have been
a Mosquej with a few colnmng in front of it and eight octagonal pil-
lars and arches inside. On the other side of the street is another
section of the town- wall, in a corner-turret of which, a little to the
N., Is immured a TabUt with a Roman inscription. — By continuing
to skirt the castle-hill, we pass the site of the celebrated Temple
of Diana, built in imitation of that at Ephesus. — We next ascend
the ♦Castlb Hill from the W., over rocks and fragments of ruined
walls. At the top, half concealed by vines, are ancient steps, mosaics,
and cells resembling casemates. The flat, grass-grown surface at the
very top Is the cover of a cistern. In spring the asphodel flourishes
here. The view is extensive, especially towards evening ; in clear
weather the PltyussB are visible to the E.
From the castle we descend by the same route and proceed to
the S. to the Plaza Mato&, with the Casa ConsUtorial and the Jgle-
nadc la Concepcion, In the facade of the former is immured a Latin
inscription f^om the Temple of Diana. The latter is a baroque edifice,
with an azulejo dome and alabaster windows. The paintings in the
spandrels of the dome and at some of the altars are Interesting.
The attractive ascent of the ICongd is accomplished by the W.
side in 4-6 hrs. (on horseback or on foot). At the top are the remains
of the Casa de Biot, where the French physicists Biot and Arago
made their meridional measurements in 1806. The superb **View
extends on the W. far into the mountains of Alicante, and on the
£. to the Balearic Isles, while towards the N. it embraces the whole
sweep of the coast from Valencia to the mountains of Benecasfm
(p. 247). — On the steep N. slope of the Mong6 is the (1 hr.)
Ctieva de Uu Aguas^ a 'naclmiento' (source), with an ermita.
From the haibonr a bridle-path leads to the S.E. to the BrmUa de lot
Angeles and the (IV4 hr.) lighthouse (faro) on the Cabo de San AnUmio.
With this !excur8ion may be combined a visit to J&vea (Brit, vice-consul),
a quiet town of 6000inhab., most picturesquely situated on the JcMn^ 3 If
Baedbkbb's Spain. 18
274 Route 28. ALCOY.
to the S.E. of D^nia, between the Cabo de San Antonio on the N. and the
Cdbo d€ San Martin on the S. The Castillo de San Juan affords a fine sea-
yiew. The stalactite Cueva del Oro and Cueva del Organo are also interest-
ing. Excellent raisins are grown in the vicinitr. — From Javea a High
Road (ca. 50 H.( leads to the S. along the coast to Alicante (p. 279).
28. From Jdtiva to Alcoy and Alicante.
66 H. Railway in construction and open as far as (18 M.) Albdida^
whence Diligences ply twice daily, in connection with the trains, to Alcoy
and Alicante. Another diligence runs from Alcoy to BcMerae^ a station on
the Boecdrente and Villena railway, which there joins the main line from
Madrid to AUcante (R. 29).
Jdtiva^ see p. 269. — The train tarns to the S. into the Albaida
valley and beyond the small baths of BeUas and (2V2 M.) Oendves
enters the defile named the DesfiUidero de Aiffues. — 8 M. Beniga-
nim. On the hill to the right is the village of Olleria. — 11 M.
Fwsbla de Rugat; 15 M. Montabemir.
18 M. Albiida, a small town with 3200 inhabitants. We here
leave the railway, which is continued to the W., through the Albaida
valley, to (6 M.) Onteniente.
The Road to Alcoy ascends from Albaida to the S., through the
valley of the Clariana^ to the crest of the Sierra de Maridla^ along
which runs the boundary between the provinces of Valencia and
A licante. It crosses the ridge by the Puerto de Benicadell or de Al-
qdida (see p. 272) and then descends, in steep zigzags, into the
valley of the Alcoy. To the left lies the small town of Muro (p. 272).
28 M. Concentiina, a station on the railway from Puerto de
Gandia to Alcoy (p. 272), is a venerable town of 6800 inhab., sur-
rounded by old Roman walls, partly renewed in the Moorish period.
It is overlooked by a picturesque hill surmounted by a tower. The
interesting old palace of the Dukes of Medinaceli has three high cor-
ner-towers. The fertile huerta of Concentaina produces wine and
olives. To the N.W. rises the Moncabrer (4646 ft.) ; to the E. is the
Sierra de la Almudaina, whence several streams descend to the E.
towards D^nia (p. 272) and Javea (p. 273). — The road now ascends
to the S.W. through the valley of the Alcoy to —
32 M. Alcoy {F&nda del Comercio, Plaza de San Agustin 22;
Hdtel y CafS de Rigal^ Calle San Nicolas 46), an important in-
dustrial town with 27,400 inhab., well situated on a terrace of the
Hoya (huerta) watered by the Alcoy. The principal manufactures
are iron goods, paper ('papel de Alcoy', for cigarettes), and woollen
goods. Many of the factories lie on the Salto de las Aguas, a brook
descending in leaps from the Mariola. The Festival of St. George,
who in 1257 protected the town from an attack by the Moors, is cel-
ebrated on April 227id-24th.
From Alcoy to Puerfo de Oandia^ vift Coneentdina and Gandia, see p. 272.
The RoAn to Alicante diverges from that to IM and Villena
(p. 279) beyond the Sierra de Carrosqueta and leads to the S»W.,
GETAFE. 29. Route. 275
up and down, over the Sierra de Vivena and the Sierra de Oralld,
— 48 M. Jijona, a town of 4400 inhab., with an old Moorish castle,
on the Coteo, a tributary of the Castalla (see below). The place lies
in an exuberantly fertile district and is famous for its honey-cakes
(turrones). — The road then descends, past the great Pantano
(p. 242) of mi, which is enclosed by a wall 235 ft. long, 136 ft.
high, and 60 ft. thick, into the valley of the Castalla^ the water
carrier for the huerta of Alicante. — 60 M. Muchamiel (p. 282) ;
6O8/4M. San JuamUAUcante (p. 282). — 66 M. AUcanU, see p. 279.
29. From Madrid to Alicaato vii Alcdsar, Chinchilla,
and La Encina.
382 K. Railway (two fhrougb-trainn daily) in 14V4-18 hrs. (fares 53 p.
35, 40 p. eO, 34 p. 90 c). The mail train starting in the evening is made np
of first-elaaa and second-claas carriages only. Vo change of carriages. The
8eviU4 trains (B. S) also pass Aledzar (p. 777), and there is a local train to
ArmjfKS (p. i3S). — trains start at the Egtaei^ del MeModia (p. 52).
De^atiko CSfnlral, see p. 58. — Bailway-restanrants in AratnJuUy Medsar,
Aibaeete, and La Bncina.
The railway traverses the monotonous plateau of Kew Castile, the S.E.
part of which is known as La Maneha. The general character is that of
a cultivated bnt irresponsive steppe, with occasional artifidally watered
oases of greater fertility. The only interesting part is that beyond La
Encina, where we traverse the bare but picturesque mountain-district
of Alicante.
Madrid^ see p. 52. — Onr line coincides for a time with that
to Saragossa (R. 10) and then crosses the brook Abronigal. Fine
retrospect of Madrid and the Gnadarrama Mts., which remain in
sight till we reach Getafe. Farther on we cross the Manzanares.
Beyond (4V2 M.) Villaverde the railway to Algodor (Toledo) and
Gindad Real (R. 48)'diTerges to the right. The main line ascends
gradually over a dreary plateau to (8V2 ^0 Getafe, a small town
(3300 inhab.), with a large Piarist seminary (Colegio de loa Padres
EseolapioB), and also a station on the railway to Giudad Real. The
parish-church contains some paintings by Claudio Codlo. — About
1 V4 M. to the £. of Getafe, beyond the railway, is El Punto or Cerro
de I08 AngeleSy a conspicuous hill supposed to be the geometrical
centre of Spain. On it is the Ermita de lo3 AngeleSj containing a
celebrated image of the Madonna, which is carried in procession to
Getafe on Ascension Day and is exhibited there till Whitsuntide.
The train now runs through com-flelds to (13 M.) Pinto^ on the
road from Madrid to Aranjuez. The old castle of the Dukes of Ar^valo
served as the prison of the Princess Eboli (p. 104) in 1678-81. —
Some vineyards are passed. 17 M. Valdemoro, with a school ofin-
struotion for gendarmes (Colegio de Guardias Civiles Jdvenes).
We traverse the Meseta de EspartifuUj a monotonous hill-district,
with a few vineyards and olive-trees. — 21 M. Ciempotuelos
('hundred wells*! with extensive salt-works. The train now de-
scends vift (25*/2M.) Sesena into the pleasant vega of the Jaramoj
18*
276 RouU 99. CASTILLBJO. From Madrid
a wooded oasis irrigated by the Aeiquia Real. We cross the Jarama
and then the To^rtM.
3OV2 M. Arazgues, see p. 123.
A Bbancb Bailwat (95 M., in 6^/4 bre.^ fares 17 p. 50, 13 p. 15,
7 p. 90 c.) runs from Aranjuez towards the £., via (5 M.) Ontigola^ (lOVs M.)
Oarila, (371/2 M.) Tarancdn, and (60 M.) ffuete, to (95 M.) Ouenca (3030 ft. ;
*Fonda de la Iberia^ plain), the capital of the Kew Castile province of the
same name, situated on the Mcar^ in the heart of the wooded Serromia
de Cuetica. The town was taken from the Moors by Alfonso YIII. in 1177
after a long siege, and contains several interesting churches. The Crothic
Cathedral (16th cent.) boasts of several works of art in the ^plateresque'
style, particularly the monuments of the Albornoz family in the Capilla de
los Albomoces or de los Caballeros (16th cent.).
Our line runs to the S.W. from Aranjuez past nnmerons country
houses of the Madrilenos, through park-like scenery threaded by
the Tagus, and for a time parallel with the highroad to Valencia.
The hills to the left are planted with oli-ves, which do not require
artificial watering. We soon emerge from the wooded district.
40 M. CastUlejo. The treeless village on the opposite bank of
the Tagus is AnovSr del Taj a (see below). A little farther to the
W. are seen isolated masses of marl and gypsum, while Toledo
(p. 126) and the Sierra de Gredos appear in the distance. To the N.
are the Guadarrama Mts.
From Castillejo a Branch Railway (16 M., in 1 hr. ; two trains daily,
fares 3 p., 2 p. 35, 1 p. 46 c.) runs to Toledo. The only intermediate station
is (71/2 M.) AlgodoTy the junction of the direct railway from Madrid to Toledo
and Ciudad Seal (p. 126). The line follows the left bank of the Tagus,
the wide valley of which is here uncultivated. Good vegetables are grown
on the slopes of the right bank, and the melons of Anov^r del Tajo are
celebrated. The scenery improves as we approach Toledo, and the view
of the eurioua city Itself is very striking. — 16 M. Toledo^ see p. 126.
Beyond (45 V2M.) ViUasequiUa we see to the left, in the distance,
the town of Yepes, which is celebrated for its white wine. We cross
the Cedr^n, — The region we are now in is a treeless and colourless
plateau. Few human beings are seen, and fewer houses.
621/2 M. Huerta de Valdecardbanos; the village, with its castle,
lies 3 M. to the left. — 55^2 ^* ^^ Caaar, The train ascends gradu-
ally to the imperceptible watershed between the Tagus and the
Guadiana. The country affords sustenance for nothing but large flocks
of sheep* To the right, in the distance, are some of the peaks of
the Monies de Toledo,
621/2 M. TembUque, The small town (2080 ft.) Ues 11/4 M. to
the S.W., on the highroad from Madrid to Andalusia. — The line
Intersects a range of hills, where gypsum is quarried. — A Uttle
farther on we reach the watershed, where La Mancha AUa^ the N.E.
part of the district celebrated in *I)on Quixote', begins. It is prob-
able that Cervantes did not mean to connect the places mentioned
in his famous novel with any real and delinite prototypes, but his
general characterisation of the land and people of LaHancha [Arab.
manxa = dry, desert land) is still strikingly apposite and true.
The district is thickly sprinkled with windmills, and their small size
V) AUeanU, ALCAZAR. 99. Route. 277
(8-10 ft. high) makes the delusion of the Knight of the Rneful Conn-,
tenance seem a IHtle less preposterous.
Mr. John Omubp^ in the Introdiiction to his translation of *I>on Quixote\
sajs that *'to anyone who knew the coontry well, the mere style and title
of *Don Quixote of La Mancha' gave the key to the author's meaning"', by
enophasising the incongruity between Don Quixote's imarlnary world and
that he really lired in. La Kancha is the last part of Spain "to snggest
the idea of romance. Of all the dull eentral plateaux of the peninsula it
ia the dullest tract".
See ^On the Trail of Don Quixote' by A. F. Jaccaci^ illustrated by
DnnUl rierge (Scribner*a Bona} 1896).
74 Vs M. ViUaealias, a town of 5600 inhab., celebrated for its
sheep. A few trees are seen here, encouraged by artificial irrigation.
— The railway now traverses a district in which much salt and
soda are produced. The soil is covered with saline plants, and
two small salt-lakes are seen to the left. To the N.E. are the outliers
of the Serrania de Cuenca (p. 276), to the S.W. are the mountains
of Cindad Real. We cross the two small brooks Rianstares and
Oigiiela^ on the banks of which some tillage is carried on.
84 M. Quero, in the midst of a malarial salt-district, with a sal-
ine lake, draining towards the S. The salt makes the soil fruitful.
The old-fashioned Spanish plough is in universal use. Farther on
are a few vineyards, but the soil generally is very stony. To the S.
appear the foot-hills of the Sierra Morena.
92 M. Alegar de San Juan (2126 ft. ; Rail. Restaurant) is the
junction for the trains to Andalusia and Ciudad Real (R. 33). It is
an attractive town of 8800 inhab. and contains two churches. The
name is derived from the castle (al-Kasr) built by the Moors and
afterwards the headquarters of the Order of San Juan. Since the
development of the railway-system the town has become an impor-
tant centre for the wine -trade of Estremadura, Andalusia, and
Alicante. Several soap-factories have been started to utilize the
soda and alkali obtained in the neighbourhood. Saltpetre and choco-
late are also made here. The knives offered for sale at the railway-
station are inferior to those of Albacete (p. 278).
Aleizar contends with six other towns for the honour of being the
birthplace of Cervantea (eomp. p. 152). In any case the far-reaching
plain around forms the stage for much of the action of his famous ro-
mance. Its appearance is especially remarkable in the early morning,
when, to use the words of Cervantes himself, 'Aurora shows herself through
the doors and balconied windows of the horiaon of La Mancha'. To the
K.E., about 20 M. off, lies the poor village of Ttlboao. ArgamatiUa de Alba
(p. 300), 16 K. to the S., is generally accepted aa the birthplace of Don
Quixote.
The railway to Alicante runs to the S.E. from Alcazar through
a grain-growing district 97 M. Campo de Criptdna (2235 ft.), with
6800 inhab., lies on the slope of the Sierra de Molinos, where there
is a group of windmills, supposed to be the scene of Don Quixote's
famous adventure. — 107 M. Zdtu:araj in a malarial district. —
IIOVjM. SocaiUamoi (2215 ft.) possesses a grove of Barbary oaks
(Quercus ballota), the edible acorns of which furnished Don Quixote
278 Route 29. ALBACETE. From Madrid
with a text for his praise of the golden age (L ii. 3). Excellent
charcoal (caMn faerie) is made from the timber of these trees. —
The train enters the province of Albacete (see below).
1261/2 M. Villarrohledo (2376 ftA with 8800 inhab., is also sur-
rounded by oak-forests (rohle =■ oakj.
About 22 M. to the K. ia Btlmonte^ built by the Marques de Villena in
the middle of the 15th cent, and an admirable specimen of a Spanish castle.
135 M. Matas Verdes. Beyond (140 M.) Mtnaya the train in-
tersects a hill of carbonate of lime (^Spanish white'), used by the
people as a stomachic cordial and to whitewash their houses. —
151 M. La Boda; 162 M. La Oineta. The railway crosses the Canal
de San Jorge, which, like the larger Canal de Maria Cristina, helps
to drain the malarious marshes near Albacete.
174 M. Albacete (2250 ft. ; Fonda de FrancisquiUo ; BaU. Restau-
rant)^ the Arabic al-Bastta, is the capital of a province and contains
14,200. inhabitants. It consists of an upper and older part, the Alto
de la Villa, and .'of the modern lower town. Its chief buildings are
the Bull Bing^ the Casa de Mademidad, the Audiencia, and the Pal-
ace of the Conde de Pino-Hermoso, It is celebrated for its knives (na-
vajas, cuchiUos) and daggers (punales), on the blades of which are
engraved suggestive inscriptions such as no me aaqiies sin razon m
me enires sin onor; soy sola y sin companera; vivan los amantes del
rey ; soy defensa de mi dueno solo, y biva. The handles are of ebony
inlaid with copper. These knives are offered for sale at the railway
station (bargaining necessary). — A large fair is held at Albacete
on Sept. 7-15th.
185 M.] Chinchilla, the junction of the railway to Murcia and
Cartagena (R. 31; carriages changed by second and third class
passengers). The town lies about 3 M. to the N., on a tufa-hill 650 ft.
high, containing innumerable cave-dwellings.
196 M. Villdr (2500 ft), the highest point of this line. We then
traverse a salt-district, with a lake. The stations are few and far
between. To the N. are the Muelas de Carcelen (4070 ft.).
210 M. Alpera. As we proceed, we see to the right the *Pan-
tano de Almansa (comp. p. 242), which the Moors constructed be-
tween the rocky walls of a valley. The huge dam of masonry batters
towards the top. The basin thus formed is IV4M. square and has
a depth of 265 ft. It is noteworthy that even the Great Earth-
quake of Lisbon, which overthrew many castles in the vicinity, left
this huge reservoir entirely unaffected. — The train passes through
a cutting and enters the fertile plain of Almansa, in the midst of
which, dominated by an old castle, lies, the town of —
222 M, Almansa (2245 ft.), where the Duke of Berwick routed
the Austrian army under La« Minas (April 25th, 1707) and so se-
cured Spain for Philip V. A pyramid to the S. of the town marks
the battlefield. The old CastU, dating from the Moorish period, is
picturesquely situated on a white limestone cliff.
to AUeanU, VILLENA. 29. Route, 279
Beyond Almansa the railway tarns towards the S. — 234 M. La
Eaeiiia (2840 ft.; BaU. Restaurant), named after the old Venta de
la Endna, is the Junction of the railway to Yalenoia (R. 26 ; car-
riages changed, except by first-class passengers).
The train now enters the province of Alicante and descends
gradually to the S.E. into the valley of the Vinalapd, which flows
into the Mediterranean near Elche (p. 282). The transition i>om
the olive- growing region of the central plateau to the Africa-like
coast-district is well marked, though hardly so sudden as on the
journey from Bobadilla to Malaga (p. 320). To the left is the Sierra
Oro8a, to the right the Sierra Lacera, — The train proceeds in
windings, past the Lomas de lo$ Ninoa, to (238 M.) Caudete^ the
station for the town of that name, 3 M. to the W., at the foot of the
Llanos de losViUares, — We cross the Ramhla del Angosto,
246 M. Villena (1665 ft.), a town of 12,400 inhab., on the left
bank of the yinalap6, with the interesting ancestral chateau of the
Marques de Villena. The church (1498-1611) contains some inter-
esting spiral-fluted columns. A large fair is held from Sept. 29th
to Oct. 6th. — Near Villena is the Laguna Salada^ which in the hot
season is covered with a thick crust of salt.
A Bbahob £ailwat (id M., in 1-1 V* br.) runs to the W. from Villena,
via (5 M.) Las Virtvdu and tbrough the Sierra de SaUnae, to Yeola, a town
of 16,600 inbab., prettily situated on tbe slope ot Monte VastiUo. — Another
line (20 M., in 2 brfl.) runs to tbe N.E., vii (16V« M.) BtOerai (p. 274), to
Bocairente, whence it is to be prolonged to Alcoy.
As we proceed, we have the Pena Ruhia to the E. — 252 M.
Sax lies to the right, on a rock (Lat aaxuni) shaped like the head
of an elephant, and has a ruined castle. — The train crosses the
Vinalap6 and penetrates the Pena de la Correta (2865 ft.) by a tun-
nel. To the left, as we emerge, is the village of Petrel, with an old
castle, on a spur of the Sierra del (M, — 256 M. Elda, with a fertile
huerta and an imposing chateau ; 259 M. Mondvar, an agricultural
town with 6700 inhabitants. — The train crosses the Vinalapo by a
bridge 100 ft in span, quits the valley, and runs towards the E. To
the left rises the Pena de Aj6n,
263 V2 M. Novelda (830 ft.), with 6200 inhab., Ues II/4M. to the
W., amid orange-trees and palms. The women make laee, like that
of Catalonia.
Tbe eulphur- baths of ScOinetas de Elda (68" Fabr.) lie 2 M. from
Kovelda. — A good road leads direct from Novelda to Elche (p. 232) and
Crevilknte (p. 2©).
The train passes Monforte (left), and crosses the narrow Col de
la Hermosa and several ramblas. — 277^2 M. San Vicente del Raspeig,
with many country-houses. The bare castle-rock of Alicante rises
conspicuously over the desert-like landscape. The sea is scarcely
visible. — 282 M. Alicante.
Alicante. — Xailway stations. 1. Estacidn de Madrid (PI. A, 2), for
the railway to La Encina and Madrid. 2. Estacidn de Mvrcia (PI. A, f
280 Routed. ALICANTE.
jor the railway to Mureia (B. 30). — The omnibuses of the larger hotels
meet the trains.
Arrival by Bern. Passengers are landed in small boats (50 c, luggage
50 c). A bargain should be made for forwarding the luggage to the hotel
(1-2 p.). — Steauebs ply to all Spanish ports, Marseilles, England, etc.
Hotels. HoTBL Bossio (PI. a; C, D, 3), Calle del Duque de Zaraso/.a,
corner of the Pas^o de M^ndez 17unez, a long-established house, pens.
8-10 p. ; Hot. db Boua t db la Masika, H6t. db Ybobba, both on the
harbour, with a view of the sea.
Oafea. Ca/i EgpcMol^ CaHno^ in the Paseo de los M^rtires; C(tfd del
Comereio. Cafi Suizo, Calle de San Fernando.
Sea Baths. Bcmot de Diana, Boiiot de la Etperanga, in the N.E. angle
of the harbour, much frequented in summer by the Madrilenos.
Theatres. Teatro Principal (PL C, 2, 3), Plaza del Teatro \ Teatro Circo,
Plaza de Balmes. — Bull Xing {Plaza de Toros; PI. D, E, 1), to the N. of
the town (corridas in midsummer only).
Diligence Office for Jijima (p. '275), C!alle de Gravina b\ for Alcoy
(p. 274), Paseo de MtSndez Nunez 9.
Post Office (Correo), Plaza Isabel Segunda. — Telegraph Office, Calle
Gravina.
British Yice-Gonsul, /. W. Cumming, Calle San Fernando 35. — United
States Vice-Oonsul, John Leach. — Lloyd's Agents, Carey A Co.
Bank. Cumming Brothert, Calle San Fernando 35.
Chief Attractions (V2-I day). Pateo de los Mdrtire», East Mole of the
Earbow^ Paseo de M4ndez Nu%ez^ CaetiUo de Santa Barbara.
Alicante, the Mooiish Lekant or Alkant, the capital of a province
and a busy commercial town, with 36,000 inhab., derives Its name
from the ancient Lucmtunij which lay a Uttle to the N., on the site
of the modern Tuaal de Manites. It lies on a small hay of the Medi-
terranean, which opens towards the S. and is hounded on the E. hy
the Cabo de las Huerias, on the S.W. by the Cabo de Santa Pola. The
capacious harbour is protected hy two large moles. Both town and
bay are dominated hy a rocky hill, crowned hy the Castillo de Santa
Barbara. Its sheltered position and mild, dry climate (comp. p. 291)
make Alicante a favourable winter - residence for invalids. The
summer is hot, hut Alicante escapes the parching Leveohe of Mureia
(p. 244). The landward environs of the town are very dreary, hut
the distant mountains, the castle, the harhour, and the sea combine
to form a memorable picture. Africa seems much nearer here than
at Valencia. — The famous wines of Alicante include the FondeUol^
Aloquej Belmete, Malvasia^ and Moscatel. Other exports are fruits,
saffron, raisins, oil, liquorice, and esparto grass (p. 286).
We may begin our inspection of the town with the E. Mole
[MueUe; PI. D, 4) of the *Harhour, at the extremity of which
stands a small lighthouse. The view of the town from this point,
with its white, flat-roofed houses, its palms, and the bare and tawny
cliffs of the castle-hill, has probably no parallel in Europe. — The
harbour is skirted by the *Faseo de los H^rtires (PL B, G, D, 4),
a double avenue of closely-planted date-palms, which is adjoined
on the N. hy the Casino , the two hotels named above , and the
Mercado (PI. D, 4; a busy scene in the morning). To the E. are the
above-mentioned bathing establishments, built out into the sea and
npported on piles.
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ALICANTE. 29. Route, 281
Parallel with this promenade rans tho Galls db San Fbrnanoo
(PI. 0, D, 4), tbe chief baBiness-street of the town, containing sev-
eial caf^s. Towards the W. it ends at the Plaza ds Isabel Sbgvnda
(VI. 2; C, 3, 4), which is planted with palms,
A few paces to the N. of the Mercado, in the Plaza de Alfonso
Doce, lies the Casa Gonsistorial (town-hall ; PI. D, 3), a baroque
edifice with four corner-towers, a tiled dome, and singular portals.
In the middle of the main facade are the arms of Alicante, with
two bears as supporters. — From the town-hall the Oalle de Jorge
Juan leads to the N.E. to the church of Santa Maaia (PI. 8 ; £, 3),
a Gothic but much modernized building, with two truncated towers
and an interesting baroque portal. High above this chureh rises
the castle. — Returning to the town-hall, we proceed thence to the
N.W. to the collegiate church of —
San iricolas de Bari (PI. D, 3), which is dedicated to the tutel-
ary saint of Alicante. It was erected in 1616 et seq. in the style of
Herrera, but was never finished. Above the main entrance (Calle
de Labradores) is a group of the Virgin and Child.
The Intbbiob is timple bat very effectiye in spite of the intrusion of
the eoro. It consists practically of tbe nave and the capllla mayor, as the
aislea and transept are merely indicated and, as it were, in an embryo state.
The singular internal vaulting of the capiUa mayor and the cimborio re-
sembles a crown. A kind of triforium runs round the whole church.
The Calle de los Angeles leads hence to the W. to the elm-shaded
Paaeo de Mendez Nunes (PI. D, 3) or Alameda, a long 'terrace raised
above the street below and reached by a flight of steps. To the S.W.
it abuts on tbe PUua de la ConatUucidn (PI. 3; C, 3), with its kiosque
and fountain. From the N. end of the Alameda we may proceed
to the left, passing the Hdtel Bossio, to the Plaza del Teatro (PI. 5;
C, 3), in the middle of which stands the Teatro Ptmcipal (p. 280),
with its handsome portico.
For a visit to the Castillo de Santa Barbara (PI. E, 3 ; ca. 525 ft.)
an order (pose) is necessary, which may be obtained in the Oobiemo
Militar in the Calle de Castafios, to the S. of the theatre. The as-
cent takes 20 min., the whole visit about 1 hr. The gates are closed
at 6 p.m. — From the Alameda we proceed at first towards the
N.E., till we reach a footpath which ascends towards the E. and
eventually joins the road mentioned below. The route winds up
past all manner of walls, bastions, and buildings. The ground is
overgrown with cactus (Cactus opuntia; pita). The order is shown
at the first gate and given up at the second. The ♦View from the
top includes the mountains to the N., the smiling huerta of Alicante,
the Mediterranean, and the coast-line as far as the Cabo de Palos
(p. 289). The town lies immediately below our feet. (Sketching is
not allowed.) — In returning we may follow the road which de-
scends in a wide curve, passing the Tobacco Factory (PI. E, 1) and
the Plaza de Toros (PI. D, E, 1), to the N. suburb, Arrdbal de San
Antdn. If the tobacco factory be passed at the hour of closing
282 BouU 30, ELGHE. From Alicante
(6 p.m.), the traveller will be reminded o£ the opera of 'Carmen' by
the ewarms of pictnresqne Spanish girls (6-6000) issuing from it.
ExGUBsioMs. J^'rom tbe Mercado (p. 280) we proceed to the E. via the
Plaza de Bamiro (PI. £, 3. 4) and along the hot and dusty Alcoy road,
skirting the 8.E. slope of the castle-hill, to the suburb of Vol Rodi^ in-
habited by fishermen and containing a .chapel of the Virgm d^ S<>corro
(PI. 12 J, F, 3). Farther on (2 M.) is the Convento de Santa Glara or de
Santa raz. containing one of the three handkerchiefs (suddrios) with which
St. Veronica wiped the Saviour's face (la tagrada reliquia de la aerenuima
Far). The others are at Borne and in the cathedral of Jaen (p. 3u5). —
The gardens of Count Pmo-Hermo»o and Count Pmacerrada are interest-
ing. — Another pleasant excursion (tartana 5-6 p.) may be made to (6 H.)
8an Juan de Alicante^ on the right bank of the CaiidUa^ and (5V4 M.) Uuch-
amiel Cmach honey'), situated in the middle of the Huerta. This fertile
district is watered from the Azuds de San Juan y Uuchamiel and from the
Pantano de Tibi (p. 275). Among the details of interest are the Moorish
sluice-gates (eompuerta*) and the fences of reed (arundo donax) with which
the gardens are enclosed. The type of the peasants reveals tiieir Oriental
blood. Numerous olives (grosales) grow here, as well as the Muscatel
grapes from which the heady Aloque (p. 280) is made.
From Muchamiel to Jijona and Alcoy^ see B. 28.
30* From Alicante to Murcia vi& Elche and Alqueria.
47 M. Bailwat (two trains daily) in 3y4-3V2 hrs. (fares 8 p. 65, 6 p. 55,
4 p. 30 c). The trains start from the JSttacidn de Murcia. There is no
railway-restaurant en route. — Passengers for Cartagena (p. 290) change car-
riages at Alqueria.
From Elche onwards this journey is very attractive. It reveals no
grand mountain - scenery and the distant view of the sea is of no great
moment, but the palm-groves of Elche and Grevillente, the cactus-clad
slopes of Callosa, the wheat-fields of Orihuela, and the luxuriant huerta
Of Murcia form a series of charming pictures hardly paralleled elsewhere.
Alicante, see p. 279. — The train runs to the S.W. throngh a
TierradeSecano (p. 244), where the dryness of the soil and atmosphere
often ripens barley by the end of March. — At (7 M.) Santa PoUt
Elche is seen in the distance. To the right is the Sierra de San Pascual,
The district becomes more fertile and a few palms are seen. Before
reaching Elche, we pass through part of its palm-grove (see below).
13 M. Elche (288 ft. j Fonda de la Conpanza, very fair), perhaps
the Iberian Helike, which defeated Hamilcar, and the Roman
Ilice, is a town of 13,000 inhab. on the Vinalapo. Nowhere else in
Spain is the former presence of the Moors more clearly indicated.
The faces of the inhabitants, the azulejo domes, the flat-roofed,
whitewashed, and almost windowless houses, and the slender palms,
often 80 ft high, all recall the Orient.
The church of Santa Maria has a large W. portal and a beautiful
blue-tiled dome, with gilded ribs. Its lofty tower should be as-
cended for its view of the palm-grove. Over the high-altar is a
celebrated statue of the Virgen de la Asuncion (chief festival on
Aug. 16th). — The other buildings of interest include the Casa
Capitular, in the Plaza Mayor; the Calandura, or prison, formerly
the mansion of the Puke of Altamira ; and the tower of Rapsamblanc.
No tourist should omit a visit to the *Palm Orove of Elche. which
to Mwreia. ALBATERA-OATRAL. 30. RouU, 283
extends right up to the walls of the town and offers one of the most
interesting scenes In Spain. The visitor can hardly belieye that he
is not in the heart of Africa or India. Parts of the groves are not
enclosed in any way, bnt a guide is, on the whole, desirable. In
summer as early an hour as possible should be chosen for the ex-
cursion. The oasis is irrigated with the aid of a large panUmo
(p. 242), in a gorge of the Yinalapd, 3 M. to the N. of Elche, where
the water is confined by a wall 70 ft. high and 27-36 ft. thiclc. The
grove contains about 70,000 Date Palmt (Phoenix dactylifera; pal-
meraJi which are planted at intervals of about 6 Y2 ^t. , ^with their
foot in water, their head in the fire of heaven*, as the Arabic saying
has it. Between the rows of palms are shallow trenches, in which
cotton, lucerne, and vegetables are cultivated.
The palms require carefol cultiTatioii. The male palms blossom in
Kay, and their pollen (farina} is then sprinkled by the husbandmen over
the female palms. The latter, about 36,000 in number, bear their fruit
(ddtOet) every other year, and the average crop is worth about 350,000 p.,
each tree produdng three arrobas (75 lbs.) of dates. The dates ripen be-
tween l^ov. and the following spring, and are much inferior to those of
the oases of the Sahara. The leaves of the male palms and of the barren
female palms have also a market value, as they are cut at Easter, made
up into bundles (ramiUetet), blessed by the priests, and sold to the pious
throughout Spain, who attach them to their houses as a sure safeguard
against lightning. To prepare them for this use, the leaves are bleached
on the trees by being tightly bound up. A tree can stand this operation
once in four yaari, and the annual number so treated is about 8OOO. Each
tree yields about ten ramiUetes, worth about 60 c. each. The 'hortolano'
climbs the branchless trees by means of a rope passed round his waist,
while he presses his feet against the trunk.
Beyond Elche the train crosses the rambla of the Yinalapo by a
lofty bridge. To the left is the salt AUmfera de Elche, into which
the Yinalapo flows at high water. To the right rises the Sierra de
la Madera.
19*/2 M. CreviUentej a town of 9500inhab., picturesquely situ-
ated on the slopes of a hill and the bank of a small stream. Just
beyond the station we obtain a wide view to the S. of the plain of
the SegHra (p. 286), with the towns of San Filipe Ner\, Catrdl, and
Dolores (see belowj. The sea is hidden by the Sierra del Molar. To
the N. is the Sierra de Crevillente, to the W. the Sierra de Callosa.
24V2M. Albatera-Catral (33 ft.), the station for the two small
towns of these names.
Fbom Albateba-Oatral to ToBSBViBJA, 17 M., railway in ca. 1 hr.
(fares 3 p. 15, 2 p. 38, 1 p. 60 c). The railway diverges to the S.E. from
the main line, crosses the Segura beyond (OM.) Almoradi -Doloru^ and
intersects the spurs of the Bierra de Tlondayo near (OVz H.) Rojalet-Beni-
J6/ar, It then descends between the SaUna de la Maia on the lejft and the
SaUna de Orihuela (2V2 M. by V* ^) on the right. — 17 H. Torrevieia is
a small seaport (7600 inhab.) near the Cabo CerverOy almost entirely rebuilt
after the earthquake of 1829. It exports salt, obtained by evaporation
from the above-named lakes.
The railway to Murcla passes the villages of Oranja de Bocamora
and Cox, the first with an Oriental-looking church, the other dom-
inated by a Moorish castle. We approach the Sierra de Callosa.
284 Bouuao. orihu]6la.
28 M. CaUosa de Stgura^ a thoiouglily Moorish little town, in
which the Gothic church built by Charles V. seems curiously out of
place. The projecting eaves of the houses are noticeable. Some
of the dwellings are built into the rock like caves. The hill-slopes
are covered with cactus and agaves, while palms and orange-trees
also abound.
We now enter the fertile grain-growing plain of Orihu^la, wat-
ered by the copious Segura. To the right is the barren Cerro de Oro^
with its Moorish dwellings. In the distance appears the Sierra de
Orihuela^ with its muelas (p. 246).
33 M. Orihnila (Fonda la Catalana; Fonda de Etpana), the Awra-
riola\j!) of the Romans, the OrcelU of the Goths, and the Awnw6leh qt
AfyOl of the Moors, is a town of 9000inhab. and the seat of a bishop.
Situated at the base of the sierra of its own name , it is the centre
of the celebrated Huerta of the Segura, the fertility of which is in-
dicated by the Spanish saying : Uueva 6 no Uueva^ trigo a Orikuela
('rain or no rain, there's wheat in Orihuela'). The town suffered
severely from the earthquake of 1829, which also destroyed several
of the neighbouring villages. — Orihuela contains an uninteresting
Gothic Cathedraly an Episcopal Palace j with a handsome staircase,
and a ColegiOj with a fine portal. A visit may be paid to the ruins
of the Moorish Castle above the town, and to the high-lying Seminario
Conciliar de San Migu'l^ which affords a view extending over the
plain of the Segura as far as Murcia. The orange - groves of the
Alameda del Chorro, to the S. of the town, are also attractive. —
An interesting fair, held every Tues., is attended by the peasants of
the countryside, clad in wide hragas and striped mantas, and riding
their asses with a sheepskin for a saddle.
The train crosses the Segura. To the left is the Sierra de Colum^
hares. — 37 M. Beniel^ the first place in the province of Murcia ;
40 M. Zeneta. To the right, beyond the Segura, appears the Monte
Agudo, a trap hill crowned with the ruins of a Moorish castle and
adopted as the cognizance of the Huerta of Mvrcia (p. 286), the S.
margin of which is now skirted by the railway.
401/2 M. Alqueria, the junction of the railway to Cartagena
(R. 31). — In the distance rises the lofty tower of the cathedral of
Murcia. The fertile huerta is surrounded by bare and parched-
Jooking mountains. Through the valley to the W. runs the railway
to Lorca (Granada). — 44 M. Beniajdn^ situated to the left, amidst
orange-trees and blue-gum trees (Eucalyptus globulus).
47 M. Murcia, see p. 286.
31. From Chincliilla (Madrid) to Murcia and .
Cartagena.
141 M. Railway (two trains daily) in T-lOVa brs. •• fares 26 p. 15, 20 p. 25,
12 p. 40 c. (to Murcia, 101 M., in 5-7»/2 hrs. ; fares 18 p. 60 c, 15 p., 8 p. 85 c.)!
\ local train also runs from AleantaHlla (p. 286) to Cctrtagena, The mail
HELLIN. Sl.RouU. 285
train leavinc Xftdrld at 746 p.m. bu flrtt and second elasf carriages only.
There is a raUway-restaurant at Chinchilla. — Passengers for Baxa (and
Granada V B. 32) change carriages at Akantaritta^ those for Elche and Ali-
cante (R. 90) at Atqmeria (p. 281).
The railway runs through a singular region. After leaving the corn
and oliye growing lands of the central plateau, we enter a desert of marl,
clay, and sand, abore which rise a few shapeless hills. We then descend,
high up on the side of the valley of the Segura, which makes part of this
deaert unexpectedly tillable. At the foot of the descent we readi the
Baerta of Murcia, which is more luxuriant than even the Vega of Granada
or the Huerta of Valencia. Ihe final part of the journey, landing us at
the best harbour on the S. and E. coasts of Spain, traverses another
*de8poblado\ — Those who travel by the mail train to or from Madrid
pasa the mo.ot characteristic parts of the scenery (between Agramdn and
Cartagena) by day. — Best views to the right.
From Madrid to (186 M.) Chinchilla, see R. 29. Our line here
diverges to the S. from that to La Enciiia. The scenery is dreary.
71/2 M. Poto Canada^ at the mouth of a defile. We cross the
watershed between the Tuna and the Segura and pass the Penas de
San Pedro (right). — 25V2 M. Tobarra (2070 ft.), a prettily situated
town with 6000 inhabitants. In the distance to the right are seen
the Sierra de AUardt (6910 ft.) and the Co/or del Mundo (5440 ft.).
The fertile district is abundantly watered by the Tobofra, which the
railway follows all the way to Agramon. — In front appears the
Sierra de leu Cabras, crossed by the highroad to Cieza (p. 286).
31 M. Hellin, the Boman Ilunum, with 9400 inhab., lies in a
monotonous but well-tilled district. At Attaraque^ near the town, is
a sulphur-spring. The sulphur-mines of Hellin, which were known
to the Romans, lie about 12 M. to the S. — Beyond (43 M.) Agra-
mdn we descend to the MundOy which here penetrates the mountains
by a deep *Hoyo or gorge. We cross the Rambla de SaUavdr. —
5072 ^ -2^ Minaa del Mundo, at the confluence of the Mundo and
the Segura (p. 283), with valuable sulphur-mines, which belong to
the state and produce about 440 tons of sulphur annually.
The railway now follows the winding course of the Segura, which
sweeps to the S. round the Sierra de la Cabeza. Rice is grown in
the marshes. The train penetrates the conglomerate hills by two
tuimels and reaches a district, the wealth of which consists in its
esparto grass (Macrochloa tencuissima), a useful plant which is cut
twice in the year. The young stems afford an excellent fodder for
cattle, while the fibrous leaves are made into matting, baskets, ropes,
and sandals. Their chief use, however, is now in the manufacture
of paper, for which large quantities are exported to England.
541/2 M. Calatparra, the first station in Murcia; the town lies
2V2 M. to the S.W., on the right bank of the river. Rice is cultiv-
ated here. — The railway, still high above the Segura, now bends
to the E. and crosses two ramblas descending from the Sierra de lar
Cabeza. On the opposite side of the river are the Cerro de SoUraos,
the Cabeza del A»no^ and other curiously-shaped mountains. The
solitariness of this district of denuded hills (terreras) and gorges ?
286 Route 31. CIEZA. From CMnchUla
broken here and there by a farm or a round hut thatched with es-
parto grass. A herd of goats or a small patch of rye Is also occasion-
ally seen. — 69V2 M. Cie8a(690 ft.), a town with 8300 inhab., pic-
turesquely situated in an olive-grove on the left bank of the Segura.
The immediate huerta of the town is very fertile, and we now reach
the zone of the regular orange-culture. A large fair takes place here
on Aug. 16th. — Near the town are the ruins of an ancient Roman
fortification.
From Oieza the train runs to the S., following the Segura, through
a desert destitute even of esparto grass. Fine retrospect of the town
and of the jagged peaks of the Segura valley. — 76 M. Blanca lies
to the right, on the Segura, and is commanded by the Pena Negra^
with the ruins of a Moorish castle. Numerous orange-groves. To
the left rises the Sierra de la Pila. — 84 M. Archena^ a town with
2700 iuhab., lies on the Segura, 472 M. to the W. A little to the
N., in a side- valley, lie the BafioB de Archena (two hotels), the
warm sulphur-springs of which (126® Fahr.) yield about 88,000 gal-
lons daily and attract several thousand visitors. The seasons are
April-June and Sept. 1st to Nov. 20th.
87V2 M. Lorquij with a small natron-lake. Near it Publius and
GnaBus Scipio were defeated by Masiuissa. — To the left, as we
proceed, lies Molina, with its saline springs. The train crosses the
Segura. — 90 M. AlgvMzas lies on the Mula, which descends from
the Sierra de la MuLa (5190 ft.) and is notorious for its *avenidas*
(p. 242). We cross the stream by an iron bridge. — 9172 M. Co^
tiUa8j with a palace of the Marques de Gorvera, to whom most of the
soil here belongs. We cross the Rambla Salada. To the left is Ja-
hali Ntievo.
9572 M. Alcantarilla, a town of 4300 inhab., is the junction of
the line to Baza and Granada (R. 32). It lies at the beginning of
the Huerta ofMurcia and on the great Wuelta* of the Segura, which
here makes a right-angled turn to the E. To the left is a large weir
(ffresa), which draws off from the river the water necessary to irrigate
the huerta. In the distance are seen Murcia^ the Monte Agudo^ and
the Montana de Fuemanta (p. 289). — Farther on we pass the large
Convento de los I^ailes de San JerdrUmo and the village of Jahali
Viejo (left). The peasants' huts (harraccu) and circular ovens (homos)
are curious. — 100 M. Murcia,
Moroia. — The Sailway Station (EstcuHdn) lies to the S. of the town,
on the right bank of the Segura.
Kotelt. HdTEL VsiYXBBAL^ Plaea de San Francisco 8; Fonda del
CoMEBGio, Calle del Principe Alfonso. — €a/4 Imperial^ near the Fonda
del Comercio.
* Pott Office (Correo)^ Plaza de Fontes, to the N.W. of the cathedral.
-> Telegraph Of&ce, Calle Barrio Naevo.
Shops* The celebrated Manias of Murcia, as well as Earrinffs and
^her articles of gold and silver, may be obtained at several shops in the
lie de la Plateria.
to Cartagena. IIURCIA. 31. Boute. 287
TmAto Somia, Plaxa de Julian Rom<^a. — Plasa de Toroa, to the W.
of the towB.
The Karketf held on Wed. and Sat. in the Arenal and the adjacent
8ido-«treet0,)8hoald be yisited to see both the eoatomea of the peasantry
(memtasy fckjo»^ alparffoicut etc.) and the f;las8 , pottery , and saiddle-bags
(atforjaa) offered for sale. — In Holy Week (Stmana Santa) imposing
ProeeisiofU are held.
Chief Attraettons (half-a-day) : Cathedral, with view from the tower;
CaUe del JYine^e Al/oneo; CalU de la Flaterioi Uakcon; Ermita de Jetue.
Murda (140 ft.), the Medindt Mwsiyah of the Moors, is tlie capital
of the former kingdom and the present province of the same name,
and has been the seat of a bishop since 1291 . Pop. 29,900. It lies
on the N. bank of the Segura (the Tader of the Ancients and the
Skehura of the Moors), which descends from the Oastilian plateau,
traverses the blooming huerta of Mureia, then flows to the E. past
Orihuela and Dolores, and finally loses itself in the Mediterranean,
here destitute of harbours. The city still preserves a semi-Oriental
character, but has no special objects of interest except the cathedral.
The delights of a visit to Mureia lie mainly in its beautiful situa-
tion, the view of the Montafia de Fuensanta (p. 289), the promenades
in the passes, and the study of the half-Moorish inhabitants.
The climate of Mureia (comp, p. 244) is liable to more variation
than that of the maritime towns. The summer is extremely warm
(maximum 120®Fahr.), and the winter is comparatively cold. While
at Barcelona the thermometer almost never falls below freezing
point, ten degrees of frost are by no means unheard of in Mureia.
The young plants are often frost-bitten on the nights of March and
have to be protected against the N. wind by potsherds. The elms,
planes, mulberries, and fig-trees seldom put forth their leaves before
the second half of March.
The city is unknown to history before its occupation by the Moors.
After the fall of the caliphate of Cordova it belonged in turn to Almeria^
Toledo, and SevUle. In 1172 it feU into the hands of the Ahnohade* (p. 309),
and from 1224 to 1243 it formed an independent Moorish kingdom under
^Abdallah el-^Adil. In the latter year it was taken by Ferdinand III. of
Castile. Numerous Catalan, Aragonese, and French families then took up
their abode here, and their names are still preserved. A rebellion against
Al/onso the Learned in 1266 was put down. In the War of the Spanish
Succession BUhop Luis de BeUuga successfully defended the town against
the troops of the Archduke of Austria by placing the huerta under water.
In 1651 and in 1879 Mureia suffered terribly from inundations.
From the Sailway Station the Paseo del Marques de Gorbera leads
to the two-arched Segura Bridge (view). On the left this paseo is
joined by the Paseo i>b Flobidablanca , with Its fine avenue of
plane-trees and a Monument to Floridctblanca , the minister of
Charles III., who was a native of Mureia.
The large sunny square to the N. of the bridge is the Arbnal
or Plaza de la Con8tUuci6n. On its £. side is the Olorieta (band in
the evenings), affording fine views of the river and of the imposing
S. facades of the Casa de Ayuntamiento and the Palacio Episcopal.
The finest view of the cathedral and its effective W. facade is
obtained from the Plaza de Palacio, to the N. of the Bishop's Palace
288 Route 31. MURCIA. From ChincMlla
* The Cathedral (Santa Maria), a Gothic building founded by
Bishop Penaranda in 1358, on the site of a mosque, was partly
modernized and provided with its lofty Renaissance dome in 1521.
The handsome baroque facade was erected in the 18th cent, by
Jaime Bort. The Tower (see below), adjoining the N. transept, is
conspicuous from a great distance. The Portada de los ApdstoUs
(S.) is Gothic; the Portada de las Ldgrimas, giving on the Plaza de
Cadenas, to the N. of the churoh,'is attributed to Berrugttete.
iNiEBioB. The Capilla Matob is adorned with numeroas statues of
kings and saints. A sarcopliagas in a niche to the left contains the heart
and viscera of Alfonso the Learned. To the right are the remains of 8t.
FiOgentiui and St. Florentina. The High AUar has a modem gilded retablo,
with a painting of Christ elevating the Host. — The Gobo contains modern
stalls. The Traseoro is adjoined by a large chapel, and above this is the
organ, the pipes of which protrude like cannons. — The Pulpit at the
S.E. angle of the crossing and the two other pulpits in the capilla mayor
all deserve attention. — The Chapels possess many features of interest.
In the 4ih Chapel of the right aisle is a fine relief of the Nativity by an
unknown master of the Renaissance. Opposite, on the outside of the eoro,
is a Holy Family by an unknown master. In the CapiUa del Sagrario is a
Marriage of the Virgin by Juanet (1616). The Capilla de San JoU contains
a copy of Raphael's St. Luke painting the Madonna. In the CapiUa del
Marquis de los Vilez we notice the portal, the stone chains hung on the
walls, and the figure of St. Jerome by Francisco ZarcUlo. The CapiUa del
Marquis Noveldes is a modem Gothic structure. — The SagbistIa Matob,
with its beautiful Renaissance portal, contains some fine wood-carvings
by Bemiguete (1525) and a custodia by Perez de Montalbo (16»77).
The Tower (480 ft. high) of the cathedral was begun by Card.
Mateo de Langa in 1522 and completed in 1766. Like the cathedral
itself, it shows the hands of various architects : Berruguete, JBerrera,
MontaneSj and Ventura RodrCguez, It consists of several sections,
diminishing in size as they ascend ; but the ordinary comparison
to an extended telescope is not very happy. It remained uninjured
by the earthquake of 1829.
Entering by the door adjoining the N. transept, we ascend at first by
18 inclined planes and then by 44 tail steps to the belfry, which com-
mands a wide view. The enthusiast may climb the 123 remaining steps
to the lantern, but this feat should hardly be attempted by ladies. — The
*ViEW embraces the valley of the Segura and that of the Sangonero up
to Lorca (p. 297); to the S., the Montana de la Fuensanta, with its er-
mita; to the E., the cemetery and Mte. Agudo (p. 289). Beyond the Se-
gura are the Paseo de Florid ablanca. the railway-station, and the avenue
of elms on the road to Cartagena. To the N.W. is the Hieronymite con-
vent (p. 286). To the N. the colourless plateau rises gradually to the
mountains. — Fee to the ^campanero' 25-50 c.
From the cathedral the narrow Calle del Principe Alfonso (for-
merly the CaUe de la Trapevia)^ the chief business- street of Murcia,
containing many interesting balconied houses, leads to the N. to the
spacious Plaza de Santo Domingo, which is planted with trees. Its
upper part is intersected by the Plaieriay a street containing many
of the best shops, but so narrow that wheeled traffic is altogether
excluded from it. In summer it is protected against the sun by
movable awnings (toldos), — To the S.W. the Plateria ends at the
^laza de Monasot, on the E. side of which stands the old church of
to Cartagena. MURCIA. 31. Route 289
Santa CatcUina^ contuning some fine tombs. On the S. side is
the Contrasttj a building originally Intended for the safe-keeping of
weights and measures and bearing coats-of-arms and inscriptions.
The W. quarters of the tovn are largely occupied by gUanoa
(p. 343) or gipsies. The church of San Nicolas contains a group of
St. Joseph and the Holy Child by Mala, and a statuette of St. An-
tony, in the dress of the Capuchins , by Alonso Cano. Near the
Conyento de Agustinas is the Ermita de JeaHs^ which contains a
series of excellent pasoSy or processional figures, by Francisco Zar-
dllo, including the Last Supper, the Agony In the Garden, and the
Kiss of Judas (comp. p. Ixi). In the procession on Maundy Thurs-
day the table in the group of the Last Supper is spread with the
most costly dishes, famished by the rich families of Murcia.
To the W. of the Arendl (p. 287) lie the small Botanic Garden
and the Alh6ndiga or Almudi. The latter, also called the Almudena^
is the old grain-magasine (al-funduk) of the Moors, with two vesti-
bules, coats-of-arms, and an inscription of 1575. — A flight of five
stone steps ascends hence to the ^Kalecon ('quay\ 'embankment'),
the finest, though shadeless, promenade of Murcia. It closely skirts
the Segura, which here falls over a weir and drives a few mills. The
Malecon commands a fine view of the town, the huerta, and the
mountains to the S. To the N. , at a lower level, lie groves of oranges
and palms, which the Malecon protects from inundations.
XxeuruoM. Tbe finest, and shortest, excursion from Murcia is that to
the convent of /WiMonla, with its spring, situated to the S., halfway up
the mountain of its own name. It may be reached by carriage in >/« ^^m
hut the road is rather rough. — A drive to the Mt€. Ag^ido affords an
excellent survey of the luxuriant vegetation of the huerta.
From Murcia to Ekhe and JUccmie^ see R. 30.
CoKTiNUATiOK OF THB RAILWAY TO Cabtaobna. The train runs
to the £., following the Alicante line as far as (10472 M.) Beniajan
and (107 M.) Alqueria (p. 284). It then quits the huerta, turns at
right angles towards the S., crosses a thin belt of olive-trees, and
ascends to a deapoblado (p. 244), the surface of which is deeply
furrowed by the action of rain. The only signs of cultivation occur
here and there in these depressions, and the dreary landscape is but
occasionally relieved by a group of pines or olives or a castle-like farm-
house. The train finally crosses the Puerto de San Pedro (755 ft.
above the sea) by a deep cutting. On the right appears the Sierra
de Almenara. To the left are the Mar Menor (p. 290), with its
rocky islets, and the Cdbo de Paloa, with its lighthouse. Between
the mountains and the coast extends the Campo de Cartagena, a wide
plain, almost waterless and abounding in salt. At the S. end of it
lies Cartagena.
119 M. Biquelme, The scenery is less dreary. Numerous wind-
mills begin to appear. — The train descends to (125 M.) Balttcas^
which is almost on the same level as the Mar Menor.
Baepekeb's Spain. 1^
290 Route 31. CARTAGENA. From Chinchilla
The Kar Menor, named by the Moors Al Bahar (p. 266), is a salt Al-
bufera or lagoon, separated from the sea by a flat sandy spit and com-
manioating with it by a narrow channel called La Manga (fishing-net),
which may be closed at pleasure. It is about 12 M. long, from N. to S..
and 2-6 M. wide. No rivers of any size enter it, so that the saltness of
its water remains constant. At a distance of 1-2 M. from its W. bank
lie several villages: 8<m Pedro de Pinalar, San Javiir^ etc. The Manga
is protected by a small military station, and on the seaward side of the
lagoon are the Torre de la EnecMizada^ the Torre de Estado, Oeddn, and
CaJnegre. Three beacon-ligbts protect the dangerous coast. The lagoon
contains several rocky islets, and off the Cabo de Palos lie the Islas JBor-
migcu (ants). — The Mar Menor contains abundance of fish and seems to
have been formed by a comparatively recent subsidence of the land.
Traces of Roman smelting-works were found in it in 1845, and the fisher-
men assert that remains of buildings may be seen at the bottom in quiet
and sunny weather. The whole district is very subject to earthquakes.
— The 17. end of the lagoon is reached from Balticat by a road passing
San Javiir and San Pedro; the S. part is approached from La Union (p. 292)
by a bridle-path via Mingote^ which lies opposite the islands. Provisions
should be taken in either case.
130 m. PachecOj in a fertile, though waterless district. We
cross the rambla of the AUtujon. 13372 M. La PcUma, Large euca-
lyptus-trees are passed. In the distance, to the left, rises the smoke
of the mines at La Union (p. ^92). We pass San AntorUo Abad
(right), a suburb of Cartagena.
141 M. Cartagena. — The Bailway Station (Eetaddn) lies to the
N.E. of the town, which the hotel-omnibuses enter by the Puerta de
San Jos^.
Hotels. '^HoTEL DE Ramos (PI. a). Plaza de San Sebastian, at the N.
end of the Calle Mayor, with baths, pens. 6-10 p.; Fonda Fbancesa
(PL b). Plaza Santa Catalina; Hot. de Roma (PI. c), these two near the
harbour, pens. 6-9 p. \ Hot. db Fbancia st ds Pabis, Calle de Osuna.
Oafes. Cafi de la Marina^ Cafi Imperial, both on the E. side of the
Calle Mayor; Cafd Suizo, on the W. side of the Calle Mayor.
Post Offloe iCorreo; PI. 4), Plaza de Valarino-Togores (PI. C). — Tele-
graph Office (PL 8), Calle de Jara.
Banks. Banco de E^cMa, Calle San Francisco; Torquera A Wandotell;
W. Ehlert^ Plaza del Rey.
British Vice-Oonsul, John C. Gray (also Lloyd's Agent). — TJ, S. Con-
sul, drilo MoUna.
Theatres. Teatro Principal (PL 11), Plaza del Rey; Teairo del Circo,
Calle de Jabonerias. — Plaza de Tores (PL 6), on the £. side of the town.
Steamers ply Xo'Almeria, Aliamte, Marseittes, Oran (9-10 hrs.), etc.
Ohief Attractions (Va-l day). View from the CasHUo de la Concepcidn;
Arsenal; CaUe Majfor; Quays and Sarbour.
Cartagena , the New CaHhage of the Phoenicians and Romans,
and the Kartadjana of the Arabs, is a strongly fortified town of
29,300 inhab., the seat of a Captain-General, one of the chief naval
harbours of Spain, and also one of the three largest Departamentos
Maritimos. It lies on the N. bank of a deeply indented bay and in
the W, part of the bleak Sierra de Cartagena^ which extends to the
£. to Cape Palos. It is dominated by the Castillo de la C&ncepeinSn
(230 ft. ; PL 7), a hill sprinkled with many ruins. The narrow en-
trance to the harbour, which after that of Vigo is the largest in the
country, is protected by the Castillo de las OaUras (650 ft. ; W.)
md the Castillo de San Julian (920 ft. ; E.), two forts crowning two
t
1 ^
to Cartagena, CARTAGENA. 3/. RouU, Wl
preeipltoas Toleanie cHfTs. The onter part of the bay it sheltered on
the S^. by the small island of Escombrera ; and the town is protected
on the flanks by three other forts, the Aiaiaya (655 ft.) on the W.
and the Ca$UUo de Detpeiiapenoa and the CattiUo de loa Moros on tho
£. In the backgronnd, between Forts Atalaya and Las Galeras, Is
seen the volcanic Algameca. The geological prolongation of the bay
towards the N. is the former lake of Almajdr^ which has been
drained by the Algameca Canal. — The climate of Cartagena is
singularly mild; bnt the Miatraly or N.W. wind, is often trouble-
some in winter. The town is furnished with excellent drinking-water
hy a new aqueduct.
In antiquity Cartagena was sometimes called Carthago JS^artmia, on
account of tbe esparto grass (p. 285) which covered its hills. It wns
founded by Hasdmbal in B. C. 228 as the keystone of the Carthaginian
dominion in Spain, but it fell into the hands of the Romans, through
Seipio the Younger, as early as B. C. 909. Both under the Gartiiaginians
and under the Romans it passed for the richest and largest town in tho
peninsula. Under the Moors Kartadjana formed an independent kingdom,
which Ferdinand II. of Castile conquered in 1343. The Moors, however,
overran It once more« and it did not come finally into Spanish hand^
until the time of Jaime I, of Aragon (d. 1276). It was from Cartagena that
Card, Xim^nez sailed in 1909 for his famous attack on Oran. In 1873
Cartagena attracted notice by its communist rebellion against the centr 1
government.
A visit to the town is best begun at the Muelle de Alfonso Doce^
a fine quay which skirts the harbour from the Puerta del Mar (erected
in 1786) to the suburb of Santa Lucia (p. 292). Or we may begin
with the MuraUa del Mar^ which runs parallel with the quay (ap-
proach from the Plaza Santa Gatalina, see below). The view includes
tbe BxiU Ring and the Hospital MiUtair to the E., and the Presidio
and the Arsenal (p. 292) to the W.
Immediately to the N.W. of the Puerta del Mar lies the Plaza
de Santa Gatalina, with its palms. A little to the E., on the slope
of the castle-hill, lie the remains of the Old Cathedral (Iglesia An-
tigua ; PI. 14), a Gothic structure of the 13th century.
The Plaza de Santa Gatalina is continued towards the N.W. by
the Galls Ma yob, the chief business-street of the town, but never-
theless closed to all wheeled traffic. To the left stands the Capita-
nid Qeneral. The street , which contains little of interest, ends at
the Puerta de Madrid, the N.W. gate of the city. Hence a pas^o,
with six rows of elms, leads across the valley of the Almajar (see
above) to San Antonio Abad (p. 290). To the left lies the Barrio
QuitapeyejOy with a large palm-garden.
To tiie E. of the Calle Mayor, at the corner of the Calle del Aire,
stands the church of Santa Maria de Oracia (PI. 9), containing an
altar-group by Francisco Zarcillo (p. Ixi). — To the N.E. of this
church lie the attractive Plata de la Ccmstitucidn (PI. A), with its
fountains and flower-beds, the Plaza de la Merced (PI. B), and tho
Puerta de San Jos6, the N.E. gate of the city.
19*
292 Routt 31, CARTAGENA.
From this gate a dusty road leads to the S., past the WaJter Tower ^
to Santa Luda, a suburb situated below the Fort San Julian and
containing smeiting-works and heaps of lead-ore.
The chief sight of Cartagena is the Arsenal, a creation of the
years 1874-76. Permission to visit It may be obtained at the
Capitanfa General (p. 291) before 11 a.m., or at the entrance of the
Arsenal itself, opposite the Plaza del Rey (PL D), after 11 a.m. (fee
of 1 p. to soldier-guide). We ilrst reach a spacious and attractive
court, with palms, eucalyptus-trees, and beds of flowers. Among
the chief features of the Arsenal, most of them interesting to the
professional yisitor only, may be mentioned the machine-shop, the
steam-crane (maehina) , the floating dock (dique flotante) , and the
dredger (draga). At every corner are fountains of excellent water.
The Ddrsena, or basin of the Arsenal , was probably the ancient
harbour of the Carthaginians and Romans. The convicts (preaos) of
the Presidio (p. 291) are largely employed in the works of the
Arsenal. Fine view of the mountains to the W.
The Calle Real, running past the Arsenal , forms a pleasant
promenade and ends on the N. W. not far from the Puerta de Madrid.
A Stbah Txakwat iTramvia a Vapor; six trains daily ^ fares 1 p., 65 c.)i
slarting at the Puerta de San Jos^ (see above), runs from Cartagena to the
8. W., yii AlumbreSy to (6 M.) La TJnion (formerly named Herrerii*)y the focus
of one of the busiest mining districts in Spain. The population, amount-
ing to about 90,000, is almost wholly connected with the mines. Huge
quantities of iron ore and jmanganese are exporte^ ^^^^ ^ England,
An * '"
\merica, and Germany (168,003 tons in 1884). About 00,000 tons of argenti-
orous lead are also exported - ».. . - .. - ,
in an almost pure condition.
forous lead are also exported annually. The metals are sometimes found
nditi
V. ANDALUSIA.
32. From Hurcia to Granada vift Lorca, Baxa, and Guadix 297
Totana, 287. — From Bmpalme to Aguilas, 296. — From
Onadix to Almerf^, 299.
33. From Madrid to Seville via Alcazar, C6rdova, and
Toclna 300
From ManxaBarea to Ciudad Real. From Valdepefias to
La Galsada de Calatrava, 301. — From Vadollano to
Linarea and thence to Bapelay, 803. — From Cordova to
Btflmes and Almorchdo, 303. — - From Oaadi^os to Car-
mona, 904.
34. From Espeluy to Jatfn and Puente Genii 305
From Jatfn to Granada, 306.
35. Cordova 307
36. From Oordova to Malaga via Puente Genii and Bobadllla 319
From Yalchillon (Cordova) to Cadis vii Harehena and
Utrera. Mont ilia, 819. — Alora, 820. — From Giirtama
to Coin and Marbella. From Coin to Torremolinos and
Malaga via Alhaarin el Grande and Mijas, 321.
37. Malaga 321
38. From Bobadllla (Cordova) to Granada 328
Anteqoera, 828. — From Loja to Alhama, 830.
39. Granada and the Alhambra 331
a. The City of Granada 336
b. The Alhambra 349
c. The Generalife 367
d. Excursions in the Upper Valley of the Genii and
the Sierra Nevada 368
40. From Bobadllla to Gibraltar vi& Ronda and Algeciras 369
From Gibraltar to La Linea and Campamento, 380.
41. From Gibraltar to Cadiz via Tangier 380
te. From Bobadllla to Utrera (Seville, Cadiz) via La Roda
and Marchena 386
43. Seville 387
a. The Plaza del Triunfo with the Alcazar and the Cathedral 396
b. The Central, Eastern^nd Northern Parts of the City 408
c. The Weatem, South -Western, and Sonth-Eaatem Parts
of the City 413
d. Triana and the Right Bank of the Gaadalquivir ... 420
Excursions from Seville : 1. Italica, 420. — 2. Via Alcald
de Gaadaira to Carmona, 423.
44. From Seville to Huelva. La Babida. Palos. Rio Tinto
Mines 423
Caatilleja de la Cuesta. . San Juan de Aznalfarache, 423.
45. From SevlUe to Cadiz 425
a. By steamer ria San Lucar de Barrameda, 425. — Branch
Eailways from San Lticar to Jerez and to Puerto de Santa
Maria. 426. — b. By railway via Utrera and Jerez, 427.
— From Jerez to Arcos. From Arcos to Bornos and
Eonda, 431. —Puerto de Santa Maria, 432. —Puerto Real.
San Fernando, 483.
'46. Cadiz ^
19/20
294 ANDALUSIA.
Andaltuia, the Bonthernmost part of Spain, embraces the pro-
ylnces of Sevilla, Huelva, Cadi%y Cdrdova^ Jain, Orandda, and
Almeridf with a joint area of 33,812 sq. M. and a population of
3,429,800. The basin of the Guadalquiyib adjoins the S. part of
the central plateau of Spain very much as the basin of the Ebro
(p. 160) adjoins it on the N. A subsidence of 300-400 ft. would
suffice to lay under water the whole territory between the Sierra
Morena and the coast-mountains to the S. These coast-monntains
include the Sierra Nevada (^snow mountains'), the highest elevation
in Spain. On the E. they are connected with the central plateau by
extensive waste-lands (detpobladot), A few salt lakes still remain
to indicate the arm of the sea formerly enclosed by the mountains.
All that would be again covered by the sea, if the above suggested
subsidence took place, is known as AndalueCa Baja^ or Lower An-
dalusia, while the rest is Andalueid AUa.
In conformity with its position and configuration, Andalusia
has always had two faces. Lower Andalusia, the supposed Tarshish
of the Bible and the Tartessus of classic days, looks out on the At-
lantic Ocean, while the main relations of Upper Andalusia are with,
the Mediterranean. In the earliest times the Mediterranean nations,
such as the Phoenicians, Greeks, and Carthaginians, contented
themselves with visiting the seaports that were ensconced in the
amphitheatrical recesses of the mountains fringing the S.E. coast.
The task of transporting the products of the interior across the range
was left to the aborigines. In this way arose the cities of CarUja
(p. 373; perhaps the oldest harbour on this coast), Malaga, Cartagena,
Adra(Abdera), &ndAlmeria, Alittlelater came the Phoenician settle-
ments in Lower Andalusia, such as Oadir (Cadiz) and KartcUuba
(Cordova), and probably also Sephela, the Roman Hispalis and
modern Seville. The Carthaginians, who had established them-
selves in the Balearic Isles, first entered Andalusia in B.C. 516,
having been summoned to the aid of the Gaditanians. After the
Punic Wars came the domination of the Romans, who ultimately
(27 A.D.) formed the whole of S. Spain into the J^ovinda Baeticaj
so caUed after the river Bsetis or Guadalquivir. On the break-up
of the Roman empire Andalusia was overrun by the Yandals, Suevi,
and Visigoths ; and to the first of these it may possibly owe its
name (Vandalitia or Vandalutia). Early in the 8th cent, it passed
into the possession of the Arabs and Berbers , who had crossed
(711) the strait between Africa and Europe at the rocky pro-
montory that to this day commemorates the name of their leader
(Gibraltar = Djebel Tarik or bill of Tarik). They called their new
conquest El Andxtbas — a name that they afterwards extended to
the whole Iberian Peninsula, for the conquest of which Andalusia
served as base. The Moors maintained their footing in Andalusia
tUl the 13th cent., long after they had lost the rest of Spain ; and
' 1492 Granada fell into the hands of Ferdinand the Catholic.
ANDALUSIA. 295
The viduitiideB .throngh which the country has passed are
reflected in its present Inhabitants. Half-Earopean and half-
African, at one time Christian and at another Pagan, they have
absorbed something from every nation that raled oyer them and
bare spoken the tongne of each successiye conqaeror. The popular
'Romance' language of Spain, derixed from the Latin, had here to
snbmit to Tery considerable modification dnring the Moorish period ;
and to this day the speech of the Andalusian contains a very much
larger proportion of Arabic words than that of the Gastilian. Almost
eyery word connected with the soil, with the implements of hus-
bandry, and with irrigation is Arabic. The dances and mnslc of the
people are distinctly Oriental. As a matter of fact a large part
of the inhabitants are descendants of the Moors who embraced
Christianity in order to escape the nniyersal expulsion of the
Moriscoes in the i6th century.
To his Oriental relations it is that the Andalusian (AndcMz^
AndaUita) owes his exuberant imagination. The French are wont
to compare him with the Gascon. No greater contrast can be
imagined than that between the dignified and proud Gastilian and
the volatile Andalusian, who accepts fancy for fact, sees everything
as throngh a magnifying glass, and is always prone to indulge in
'fanfarronados'. Nothing, on the other hand, is more charming than
the bearing of an Andalusian Maja, who, characteristioally enough,
is admired rather for her wit, her grace, and her power of repartee
than for her beauty. The SiU Andaluza is as proverbial as the Attic
salt of the ancients. A nUadOf or 'salted' fair one, pleases the An-
dalusian more than the most ravishing of tongue-tied beauties.
The word tdUro (salt-cellar) is used as Invocation to a trial of wits,
to a song, or to a dance.
iSalero! viva el salero! Salero, long live the salero!
i 8«lero 1 viva la aal ! Salero, long live the salt !
Que tiene Usted mas salero You possess more salero
Que el salero universal. Than the salero of the whole world.
Another 'solear' advises a cold beauty to betake herself to the
salt-works and .provide herself with salt:
Tu tienea mu poca s^ ;
Corre bete a las saUnas
Que te la acaben de ech^.
The Andalusian is the bom Qradoso of the Spanish drama, the
Leporello and Figaro of the operatic stage ; in his graver form he
appears as Torero or Contfaharxdiaia, The little town of Chiclana
is the home of the most renowned bull-fighters, and the Serranfa
de Ronda is the recognized haunt of the smuggler. There is scarce-
ly [a better- known song in Spain than 'Yo que soy contraban-
dista*. Another popular character was the Bandolero or Secueatra-
dofy the Andalusian brigand, who kidnapped wealthy citizens in
order to hold them for ransom. If he fell into the power of the
authorities through the exertions of the Guardia Civil (p. xxiv), th'
296 ANDALUSIA.
fate of the 'Unlacky One' (desdiehado) was celebrated in a ^leyenda
patriotlca'. For the hero of the Spanish people has always been
the enemy of society.
Andalnsia contains the largest and most interesting BviLDDrGs
of Spain, snch as the Gothic Cathedral of SevdU^ the Motque of
Cordova^ the Alhambra^ the Oiralda, and the Alcdzar of Seville, All
of these, except the first, are monnments of the period of the Moors,
who, aided by the natural wealth of the land and the lavish favours
of a southern sky, made Andalusia the centre of a brilliant civil-
ization. In spite of all that is fantastic and exaggerated, the first
glimpse of the forest of columns in the Mosque of Cordova or the
view from the Torre de Vela at the Alhambra must always mark an
epoch in the life of the impressionable traveller.
The Natusal Sobnsbt is no less attractive. In this respect
Andalusia bears the same relation to the interior of Spain as
Sicily does to the Italian mainland, or Provence to the rest of S.
France. It unites within a comparatively narrow compass all that
is scattered widely over the rest of the peninsula. To the £. are
vast plateaux and steppes, frozen in winter and parched in sum-
mer, with a few lofty mountains rising above them ; on the S.W.
are the sand-dunes of the Atlantic coast. The Guadalquivir rolls
down to the sea through a profusion of olive-groves; the Sierra
Morena is overgrown with great carpets of clstns; the carefully
irrigated vegas teem with verdure ; cotton and sugar-cane thrive in
the deltas of the short torrents that flow into the Mediterranean ;
the summits of the Sierra Nevada, the plateau of Ronda, and the
Sagra Sierra are wholly destitute of vegetation. Those who steam
along the coast to the S. of Motril or Adra survey at one time all
the zones of vegetation from the Equator to the Arctic Circle. Those
who ascend through the beautiful valleys of Alpujarras to one of the
summits of the Sierra Nevada pass in a few hours from the orange
gardens of Lanjar6n, across rich fields of maize, wheat, and rye
(which grow even at a height of 8600 ft), through forests of chest-
nuts and oaks, and over wide tracts of brushwood (monte bajo) to
the so-called *borreguiles' (lamb-pastures) ending In the 'ventis-
queros' of eternal snow. — The view from the top of the Mulhacen,
the culminating peak of the Sierra Nevada, is one of the grandest
in the world, embracing the Mediterranean from the Cabo de Gata
to the narrow Strait of Gibraltar, and the 'Morerfa' or mainland of
Africa. Experiences almost worthy to rank with this are the view
into the chasm of Ronda; the sight of the Atlantic Ocean from the
ramparts of Cadiz, while the mighty waves beat furiously against
the walls of the city in whose harbour ouce anchored the silver-
fleets of America ; or, finally, the excursion from Seville to the an-
cient copper-mines of the Rio Tinto , the water of which is dis-
coloured by the metal, and on to the harbour of Palos, whence
Columbus sailed to discover a New World.
297
32. From Kurcia to Oran&da viA Lorca, Baza,
and Ouadix.
180 M. Railway (one through-train dally) to (124 M.) Bata (p. 296) in
8»/» hr». (fares 2S p. 10, 21 p. 10, 13 p. 80 c). There is also a local train
from Mnrcia to Lorea. There is no railway-buffet e» rouU. — Passengers
from CMnehiUa (p. 378) , who mean to forego a visit to Murcia , change
carriages in AleanlariOa (see below). — The railway is to be continued
from Basa to Granada, but this part of the joumev must for the present
be performed by Diligence (p. zvii), which starts at 9 p.m. and takes about
20 hrs. (fsre for the berlina 20 p.). The road is bad.
This new railway, which will form the shortest line of communication
between the E. coast of Spain and Andalusia, affords a considerable variety
of scenery. The luxuriant huertas of Hurcia and Lorca are followed by
the dreary steppe of Baza and Guadiz i and beyond Diezma we traverse
the mountain- valleys of the Sierra de Jarana, enjoying fine views of the
snow-dad Sierra Kevada.
Murda^ see p. 286. — The train follows the Chinchilla railway
(Madrid ; R. 31) to (5 M.) AUantanlla and then ascends to the S. W.
along the left bank of the Sangonera, To the left, in the huerta, lie
several prospeions Tillages. At Barriot^ one of these, is the Con-
traparada, or weir, which draws off the last water from the river.
14^2 M. lAbfilla, picturesquely situated on both sides of a rav-
ine. — 191/2 M. Alhama de MureiOj a town of 4100 inhab., with
warm sulphur springs (102-108® Fahr.), which rise in the middle
of the town and are used both for drinking and hathing. — The
luxuriant vegetation includes gigantic son-flowers (tomasoUt), the
seeds of which are edible, and huge aloes. To the right lies the
little town of AUdo, which is celebrated for its wine. It was for-
merly a strong fortress, and in the 11th cent, it was one of the chief
points dappui of the Gastilians In their struggles with the Moors of
Seville and the Almoravides (p. 309).
271/2 M. Totana, a town of 8100 inhab., chiefly gipsies (pita-
nos; p. 343), situated amid the S. spurs of the huge Sierra de Es-
puna. A gorge divides the town into the Barrio de SeuiUa and the
Barrio de Triana. The large tinajas^ or terracotta jars, of Totana
are widely used for holding oil and wine. — We cross the Sambla
del Evor and pass the Casas de Guevara. To the left rises the Sierra
de Almenara (2885 ft.).
41 M. Lorca (1150 ft.; H6t. de Lorca; Fonda de la Roja), the
Eliocroca of the Romans and the Lurca of the Moors, is a town
with 12,100 Inhab., situated on the N.W. slope of the Sierra del
Cano and traversed by the Ouadalantin, an Insigniflcant stream that
joins the Sangonera a little lower down. A good view is obtained
from- the Moorish Castle, in the midst of the closely-built old town.
Other interesting features are the Espolon Tower and the Town WallSy
which also are Moorish. — The centre of the life of the new town
is the handsome Plaza Mayor or Plasa de la Constitucidn, with the
church of San Patricio and the Casa Consistoridl. The church
Santa Maria Real de las Huerids occupies the spot where the In^
•298 BouU32. BAZA. From Murda
Alonso ('el Sabio*} pitched his camp before his capture of the town
(I2443. The arms of Lorca show a bust of this king and a tower
(Alfonsina), with the inscription :
Lorca solam gratum, castrum super aatra locatum,
Enae minas gravia, et r^gni tutissima clavis.
The charming environs of the town are notable for their fine
trees. The neighbouring hills afford views extending to the Medi-
terranean and the harbour of Cartagena. — The large Pantceno de
Puentes, to the S. of Lorca, near the railway, was constructed in
1775-89. In 1802 it burst its dam and devastated a large tract of
country, but it has been restored since 1886.
To the left rises the Sierra del Cano. Near (48 M.) Lumbreras
we cross the narrow ravine of the NogatUy which was, in the 16th
cent., the scene of the bloody struggles with- the Moors of Granada,
described by Lope de Vega in his drama *E1 Primer Fajardo'.
From (51 M.) EmpcUme or Almendricos a branch-railway runs in
11/4 hr. to (191/2 M.) Agvilai, a small 'seaport (Brit, vice-consul),
whence is exported the mineral output of the /Sierra d« Alnrntgrera. —
60 M. Las Norias, — The train intersects the Sierra de EnmediOy a
barren and thinly peopled district. 67 M. Huercal-Overa^ a town of
4800inhab., is the first place in the Andalusian province of AlmerCa.
The train now threads several tunnels and runs towards the W.
into the beautiful valley of the Almanzora^ which descends from
the Sierra de Baza, To the S. the valley is bounded by the lofty sum-
mits of the Sierra de los Filabres (6820 ft.). — 74 M. Zurgena:
82V2M. Almanzora; 891/2 M. Fines-Olula; 93 M. Parehena, with a
ruined castle. — Beyond (IO41/2M.) Serdn the train ascends to the
N.W. towards the ridge of the Sierra de Baza, the boundary between
Almerfa and Orandda. 118 M. Hijate. We then descend througli
a tunnel and over several ramblas. 121 M. Cariiles.
124 M. Baza (Fonda Oranadina, Plaza de Granada, unpretend-
ing), an ancient Iberian settlement, the Roman Baati and the Moorish
Basta^ was captured by Isabella of Castile in 1489 with the aid of
the cannon still preserved in the Alameda. It lies on the slope of
a hill, in the midst of the fruitful Hoya de Baza^ and still retains
its Moorish character. Pop. 6600. The collegiate church of San
Maximoj containing the relics of this saint, occupies the site of a
Yisigothic cathedral built by King Reccared and of the Moorish
mosque. In the centre of the town is the Alcazciba^ a Moorish castle.
To the N.E. rises the Javalcdn (4715 ft.), an isolated, bell-shaped
Jurassic hill, commanding a good view of the basin of Baza.
The Basin of Baza and Guadix is, after the plain of the Ebro (p. 160),
the largest ateppe in Spain and consists of tertiary deposits of debris from
the adjoining hills. The ground, which is strongly impregnated with
salt, is deeply furrowed by larger and smaller water-courses belonging to
the basin of the Ouadiana Minor; and the formations due to the action
of the water are often very bizarre. Two oases of culture are found in
the river-valleys near Baza and Guadix. The other human settlements
are practically limited to a few cave-dwellings.
to Granada. ALMErIa. 32. RouU. 290
The continaation of the railway now in oonstniction crosses the
Baml and the Oor,
eiutdiz, the Wddi-Ash ('water of life') of the Moors, lies-4V2 M.
to the N.W. of the ancient Iberian town of Acei (now Ouadix tl
Viejo), which was an important Roman colony and the see of a
Yirigothic bishop. The present, semi-Moorish town, with its 10,000
inhab., lies Ti/^M. to the N. of the Sierra Nevada, in the midst of
a fertile Tega, and on the left bank of the (htadix, an affluent of
the Fardes (p. 300). It is dominated by the Moorish Alca%6ba, a
fine point of view. The Cathedral, a structure of the 18th cent.,
stands on the ruins of the old Moorish mosque. The Bcerrio dt
Saniiago is interesting for its curious earthen walls and cave
dwellings inhabited by gipsies. — About 6 M. to the N.E. of Gua-
dix lies the Ermita de Son Torcuato^ on the spot where this apostle
of the Iberians is said to have suffered martyrdom.
A BnAMOH Railway ((>2M., in 4-6V3 brs.), opened in 1896, runs from
anadix to the 8.E. to (36 M.) AleubiUas y Qirgal and thence through the
YaUey of the APmeria to —
62 M. Almeria (Hdt. de Tortosa; Hdi, dt Londret; Comercio; Cuba^ La
FamOf LaPerla, Oranadinay boarding houses ^ British Vice-Consul, Wm. May
Limdtay; U. S. Cons. Agent, F. C. Sevang Lloyd's Agent, Josi 0. Canet), one
of the most ancient cities of Spain. Founded by the Phoenicians and, under
the name of Urci^ one of the chief Mediterranean ports of the Koman
Empire, it was so important under the Moors, that it could boast: ^cuanclo
Almerfa era Almeria, Granada era su alquerfa (farm). In 1147 Alfonso VII.
of Castile, with the aid of the Genoese, succeeded in capturing the town,
but his tenure of it was fleeting: and it was not earlier than 1189 that
Almeria passed finally into Christian keeping (comp. p. 336). Though the
capital of a province and the see of a bishop, it was until quite recently,
owing to its remoteness from any railway-system, a quiet and unprogres-
sive plaee. Thanks to the new railway, the town and neighbourhood have
awakened from their lethargic state, and improvements are rapidly going
on on every side. The commodious harbour, with a basin of 178 acres,
is one of the btet in Spain. The export trade deals chiefly in grapes (of
which a million barrels, of 55 lbs. each, can be shipped in normal sea-
sons), almonds, oranges, pomegranates, prickly pears, and other fruits,
esparto fibre, salt, iron ore (of which enormous quantities are now being
shipped), and other minerals. There are manufactories of sugar, white-
lead, macaroni, etc. Pop. about 60,(X)0. — The harbour, bounded by the
CaMle of San Telmo on the W. and the embouchure of the dry river Almeria
on the E., forms, as it were, an inner nook of the large Oolfo dt Almeria.
The latter, surrounded by the Sierra de Enix (W.), the Sierra de lo$ Fi-
labres (0619 ft. \ If.), the Sierra AlhamiUa (4735 ft. ^ 17.E.), and the Sierra
del Cabo de Oata (16^ ft. ; S.E.), opens towards the S. in a wide semicircle.
The rich Veffa of Almeria is clad in all the luxuriance of subtropical
vegetation. The climate is delicious, rivalling that of Xice, San Remo,
or Algiers, and Almerfa is suited for a winter-station. The mean annual
temperature is 65.5** F., permitting the date-palm, the banana, and the .
custard-apple to flourish. — The town ie dominated by the decayed Ctutillo
de San Orietdbal and by the old Moorish Alcatdha, with the massive Tor-
re&n de Bomenaje and two other towers. The latter was enlarged by
Charles V. The Gothic Cathedral, built in 1524, looks like a fortress, with
its massive belfry-tower, its castle-like apse, and its embattled walls. The
church of San Fedro^ to the S.E. of the town, occupies the site of a mosque.
•~ Almeria has steamboat-communication with Malaga, Cartagena, AHcante^
and other Spanish ports; also (twice weekly) with Oran. — The Almeria
and Guadix railway is being continued towards the K. to Linares (p. ^
From Guadix to Baeta, see p. 302.
300 Route 33, ARGAMASILLA. From Madrid
The railway traverBes some cniiously shaped day^hills, often
100-130 ft. high. At PuruUena, a village consisting, mainly of cave
dwellings, we touch the valley of the Fardea, Die%ma commands
a good retrospect of the hasin of Gnadix. — The railway crosses the
Sierra de Jarana, the watershed between the Fardes and the Genii
(p. 334), by the Puerto de lo8 Dieatea de la Vieja; and then descends
to the S.E., into the picturesque valley of the Darro (p. 833), with
its precipitous rocky walls. In the right foreground rises the Sierra
Elvira. — The stations of Huetor-SaniiUan and El Farffue both lie
on the right bank of the stream.
180 M. Oranddd, see p. 331.
33. From Kadrid to Seville vid Alc&zar, Cordova,
and Tocina.
365 M. Railway (two tbrotigli-trains daily) in 18V4-23 hrs. ; f&res 65 p.
95, 50 p. 70, 30 p. 96c. (to Cordova, 273 M., in W/i-iiyi hrs.; fares 60 p.
86, 39 p. 40, 24 p. 16 c.). An express - train (tren expre*)^ with sleeping
carriages (extra fare 20 p. 70 c.), also leaves Madrid on Jfon., Wed., and
Frid. (returning on Tues., Thurs., and Sat.) for Cordova (12 hrs.) and
Seville (15 hrs.). The mail train leaving at 8.45 p. m. and the express
have no third-class carriages. The trains for Valencia, Alicante, and
Cartagena (RR. 26, 29, 31) follow this line as far as Medzar. — The trains
start at the Eitacidn del Mediodia (p. 52). There are railway-restaorants
at Madrid^ Aranjuez^ Alcdzar, Cordova^ and Seville. — Passengers for
Malaga, Oranada, and AlgecirasOibi'altar (RR. 37. 38, 40) change carriages
at Cordova; those for M4Hda and Lisbon (RR. 49, 48) at Tocina (p. 305).
The train is divided into two sections at Empalme (p. 298), the carriages
for Cadiz (R. 46) running round the E. side of Seville to the Estaddn de
Cadiz (p. 387), while the rest of the train goes to the Estaddn de Cordoba
(p. 387):
From Madrid to (92 M.) Alcdzar de San Juan, se.e R. 29. — The
railway now traverses La Mancha Baja^ an interminable and dreary
plain, the only interest of which lies in its associations with Don
Quixote. There are cultivated patches here and there. To the N.E.
lies the Cnmpo de Criptana (p. 277), with its windmills. We cross
the Maranchdn and (hiadiana Alto, two small brooks. The high
water-tower to the left is used for supplying the railway-stations
and watering-tanks. The fields are strewn with heaps of stones
and clumps of evergreen oaks. A few vineyards are seeA farther on.
108 M. ArgamasiUa de Alba. The village of this name (Parador
del Carmen) lies about 7 M. to the E. and may be reached by dili-
gence. To the E. and W. stretches the endless horizon of La Mancha,
while to the S. appear the foot-hills of the Sierra^Moreua (p. 301).
ArgamasiUa is generally accepted as the birthplace and home of the
'Ingenioso Hidalgo de la Mancha% surnamed Don Quixote Cg^eaves^),
though Cervantes purposely left the place uncertain (comp. p. 276). Cer-
vantes is also believed to have written some of the early chapters of his
novel here when imprisoned in the Casa de Medrano. It is not improbable
that the original of Don Quixote was Don Bodrigo de Pacheco, of whom
there ia a portrait in the church of ArgamasiUa. In recognition of these
(supposed) facts an edition of ^Don Quixote' was published here in 1864
by M. Ribadaneira of Madrid.
toSevUle. VALDEPESfAS. 33. RwUe, 301
The line now tiirns to the S. W. -^ 122 M. lUnitaarM (1980 ft.),
a town of 9400 inhab., on the Astief, occupies the «ite of the Caaa
de Mansanarei, a castle erected after the battle of Lai Navas de
Tolo6aJ(p. 302). To the left Uea the C^rnipo de Montiel, which Don
Qaixote traveraed in search of adyentnies (Part I, Book i, Chap. 2).
Havy points mentioned in *Don Qnixote' lie to the B. of the section
of the railway between Argamasilla and Manzanares. Thus the Cave of
UonUsinos (II, ii, 0) Ilea about 6 H. to the S.E. of the hamlet of Buidera,
a little to the K. of the mined castle of Soeafria. It was probably a
Boman copper-mine. The small ZakM o/ Ruidera (II, U, 5), of which there
are abont a duzen« lie between Buidera and Bocafria.
Fkok Hakzanarks to Ciddad Bkal, 41 K., railway (two trains daily)
in 274 hrs. (fares 7 p. 60, 6 p. 90, 3 p. 66 c). — The line descends to the
W. along the Azuel. To the S. risei the Sierra Morena; to the N. lies
Ufce plain of the QnadUma, This river rises in the ponds of Buidera (see
abore), disappears in the plain of ViUaeenteno^ and re-appears above ground
at the 0Jo$ del Ouadiana (2090 ft.). It was to this underground portion of
the Gnadiana that Buy Gonzalez Clavijo referred when he boasted to
Tamerlane that his master, King Henry, had a bridge so large that 100,000
sheep grazed upon it. Farther to the K. are the range of La Catderina
(8960 ft), the forests of which have been entirely destroyed by the char-
coal-burners, and the Aisrto Lapiche^ mentioned in 'Don Quixote'. The
soil is artificially irrigated and bears many vineyards and olives.
iSVt M. Daimiel is a town of 11,400 inhab., with the Gothic church
of SatUa Maria, It lies in the V. part of the Campc d§ Calairava^ which
formerly belonged to the Order of Galatrava, the first knightly order in
Spain, founded in llfi6 to fight against the Moors. The order was suppressed
by the 'Catholic Kings' in 1495, but still subsists as a titular dignity. ~
The train turns to the S. To the left is the ermita of Nwstra JSOioia de
leu mevee.
2711. AJmagro, a town of 8400 inhab., founded on the site of the
Boman Mariana in the i2th cent., had its original Spanish name oi Miiagro
changed to Almilagro by the Moors. The CatOe of the Knights of Gala-
trava is now a barrack. The lace of Almagro rivals that of Catalonia.
A little to the E. are the Bol{Mo* de CakOraoa^ with an old castle. To
the 8.W. lie the BcSioe de Fuentanta.
This part of the Campo de Galatrava contains many extinct Volcanoet
(Cabexae)-, which rise from the tertiary formations of the plain. The cra-
ters are still distinguishable in the Cabetoe del Falo^ del Rey^ de la Plata^
and del Bierro, all of which show large masses of basaltic lava. The
railway traverses the plain towards the W. 39 M. Miguelturra, — 41 M.
Oiudad Real, see p. 453.
The railway crosses the Azuel and runs to the S. to (139V2 M.)
Valdepeftas (2110 ft.), a town with 16,400 inhab., celebrated for
its wine and containing many large bodegas.
From ValdepeSas a Bbanch Railway (27 M., in 2V4-3 hrs.) runs to the
W., down the valley of the Jabal6»y a tributary of the Ouadiana^ to (11 M.)
El Morale {iV/i M.) Montanehu4lo§, and (SOVs M.) Qrandtula de Galatrava^
which lies near the ancient town of OreUtm. The railway then crosses
the Jabaldn, near an old Boman bridge, and goes on to (27 M.) La Oal-
sada de Oalatarava, which has two old castles and several lace-fiietories.
The CJordova railway now crosses the Jabal6n (see above), on
which, about 3V2M. to the S.W., lies Torrenuevay supposed to be
the spot where Don Quixote liberated the galley-slaves (I. iii. 8).
It then ascends gradually past (148V2 M.) Santa Cruz de Mudda,
with its vineyards, to the Sierra Morena, the Mariam Monies of th
ancients. The mountains make no great show, as the plateau fr^
Z02 Route S3. ESPELUY. From Madrid
which they rise is itself !2500 ft. above the sea-leyel. The scenery
is dreary. i6^M. Mmuradiel (^20 ft.} or El Visillo, Through gaps
in the Sierra Morena we catch a few glimpses of the Sierra Nevada.
The train now descends through the desolate valley of the Ta-
mujar to the huts of (165 M.) Venta de Cdrdenca^ which is usually
believed to bethe scene of Don Quixote's penance among the moun-
tains (I. iii. 11) arid may have suggested the name of Cardenio to
Cervantes. — Just beyond this we pass, by means of eight tunnels,
through the celebrated Piterto de I>e8/>cnaj>«fro8 ('precipice of dogs'),
a gorge with lofty" walls of slate. The finest part is beyond the
fourth tunnel, and the retrospect on emerging from the fifth tunnel
is very striking.
Walkers may leave the train at Venta de- Cardenas and follow the
old road on the W, side of the ralley, passing Odrredertu^ Santa JSUna
(see below), and Lot Jfavas de Tolota^ to La Cat'oUna. All these places,
and also Almuradiel (see above), are mainly occupied by Sonth-German
settlers, planted here abont 1780 by Count Oktvidet, the favourite of Char-
les III. The Teutonic origin of these people is still easily recognised,
though they have forgotten their native tongue. Las Navas de Tolosa
was the scene of the momentous battle of July 16lh, 1212, in which ttae
Christian army, consisting of Spanish and foreign crusaders, routed th«
Almohades under Mohammed en-K&sir. — From La Carolina we may
proceed by diligence vi& Ouarroman to BaiUn^ where the Spaniards under
(kutemoi defeated the French on July 18th, 1806, and on to Menj'fbar
(see below). Or from Guarroman we may make our way to the 8.E. to
Lin<»re9 (see below).
174 M. Santa Elina^ the first place in the Andalusian province
of Jain, The train descends the valley of the Quartizas. —
184 M. Vilches (1540 ft."), picturesquely situated between two hills.
The vegetation now assumes a southern character. We cross the
Guarrizas. — ^ 190 M. VadoUano,
From Vadollano a Bbanch Railway (6V2 M., in 1/2 br.) runs to. Linares
CPonda de io$ Doe Amigos; Bidtel C^vantes'^ Brit, vice-consul;, the Roman
Hellanee^ famous in antiquity for its lead and copper mines and now
one of the chief mining towns of Spain. Pop. 26,70(>. The mines, among
which may be mentioned La Fortilta^ Loe Quinientoe, El Poeo AnchOy and
Loe Alamilloty are mainly worked by English companies. In the Cerro de
Val de Infiemo, 5 M. to the 2T. of Linares, are some ancient mines known
as Los Pozos de Anibal. — A branch-railway (ISi/zM., in V4 br.) runs from
Linares to Eepeluy (see below).
196 M. Baeza is the junction of a branch-line to (12 V2 M.) the
town of Baeza (13,000 inhab.), the aucient Vivatia^ and (171/2 M.)
Vhida (1970 ft.; interesting church, p. xliv) both pleasantly sit-
uated to the S.E. in the Loma de Vbeda. Their names often occur
in the history of the Moorish occupation. From Ubeda this line is
now being continued via (33 Vg M.) Quesada to Guadix fp. 299),
204 M. Jabalqumto. — 208 M. Menjibar; the town (815 ft.),
containing the station, of the railway to Jain (R. 34), lies abput
2 M. off, on the S. bank of the Guadalquivir (Arabic WHd-al-Kebir,
♦he *great liver'), which the train now crosses by abridge 640 ft. long.
*^.ll M. Espclnj, the junotion of the branch-line to Ja^n.; the
'0 lies on the Guadalquivir, 2V2 M. to the N.
to SevUU. AJOjOjAR. 33. Route. 303
Out line keeps to the S. of the Guadalquivir all the way to
Villafranca (see below). '217 M. ViUanueva de la Reina^ with a for-
tress-like ehuTch.
226 M. AndAjar, a town with 12,900 iiihab., lies on the right
bank of the Guadalquivir. It is famous for its pottery, and the a{-
earrdaa$ •r^orroa (Arabic aZ-fcarrtts or djarra), tbe jars used through-
out Spain for eooiing water, are made here.
The railway runs in a straight line along the winding Guadal-
quiTur, threading tunnels, traversing oliye-groves, and crossing the.
small Salado de Arjona. — 229 M. ArjoniUa; 232 M. MoftnoUjo
(Hdt. de los Leones; Hot de Madrid), with a frequented mineral
spring; 241 M. Villa del Rio^ the first place in the province of Cor-
dova^ with a Moorish Alcazar converted into a church. — 247 M.
Montoro^ the ancient Epora^ an important Moorish fortress and now
a town with 6100 inhabitants. The fine bridge over the Guadal-
quivir dates from tbe beginning of the 16th century. — 253 M.
Pedro Abad, About 5 M. to the S.E. lies the town of Bujalance,
with a dilapidated Moorish castle with seven towers, built by
'Abderrahman III. in 935. — 256 M. Carpio^ with a Moorish tower
of 1325| stands on the border between Upper and Lower Andalusia.
— Beyond (258 M.) Villafranca de OSrdoha the train crosses the
Guadalquivir by the Puente de Alcolea, a flve-arched bridge, 650 ft.
long, which has entered more than once Into recent Spanish his-
tory. — 267 M. Las VenUis de Alcolea. The highroad crosses the
river by a handsome bridge of 20 arches, constructed under Char-
les III. To the W., in the distance, is seen Almod6var j to the right,
above us, are Las Ermitas (p. 318).
274 M. C6rdova, see p. 307.
Fbom Cordova to Bklmsz akd Almobch(Sn, 81 M., railway in 5'/4 hrs.
(fares 14 p. 90, 11 p. 85, 8 p. 56 c). The trains start from the Estaddn dt
CereadWa (p. 80T). This line s-^rv^s mainly for tbe coal-traffic, bnt affords
an interesting glimpee of the slaty formation of the Sierra Morena. The
railway engineering is often ren»arkable. In spring the richness and
variety of the flora are astonishing. — The train sweeps round the Con-
vento de San Jer6nimo (p. 918) and approaches the Sierra de Cordoha
(p. 906), a cultivated hill-district, with olive-groves and attractive farms.
We ascend to the K.E. in sweeping curves, cross the Pedroche^ and thread
three tunnels. At (8 M.) Balanzona we have a fine retrospect of Cordova
and Andalusia. liVs H. Obejo. — To the right of (191/2 M.) Vaear (1895 ft.)
are the ruins of the Moorish Castillo de Vacar. The railway descends
through cuttings and tunnels to the valley of the Ouadiato^ which flows
from the plateau of Estremadura across the Sierra Morena to Posadas
(p. S04) and the Guadalquivir. — 27Vs M. AlhondiffwUa. The train skirts
the bold and jagged cliffs on the right bank. — 33 M. Espiet^ with coal
mines. The castle-hill of Belmee comes into sight. Numerous coal-pits,
with their smoking chimneys, are seen to the right, especially near
(431/2 M.) Cabeza de Vaca.
45 M. BelmM (1600 ft.), a prosperous town with 5000inhab., lies 1/2 U.
to the E. of the railway, at the foot of a hill. Its castle was one of a
long chain of Moorish fortresses, other members of which were at Fuente
Ovejunay Sspiel^ NewOo, Villavidoea, and Ahnoddttar (p. 904). — The ex-
tensive coal-deposits of Belmes and Penarroya (p. 904) lie so close to
the surface that they are worked as quarries rather than as mines. The
304 Route 33. PENAFLOR.
district alflo posaefses mines of iron and copper. — 64Vv M. Fdkirroifa or
Minn la TerHbk is a characteristic mining town.
At we proceed, we have the last spnrs of the Sierra Morena to the
left. We have now reached the sparsely-peopled central plateati, where
almost the only signs of life are the migratory flocks of sb^ep (see
p. 444). The only trees are cork-trees and evergreen oaks (p. 277). To
the left lies the village of Oranjuela^ the low red-roofed cottages of which
seem hardly to rise above the level of the ground. We pass f^m the
basin of the Guadiato to that of the Ziijar and the Gua^ana.
59 M. ValetquUlo (ca. 2070 ft.) has several mines. 72 H. Zdjar is the
station for Sinojota del Ditque^ which lies abont 6 M. to the S.E. The
• train crosses the Ztijar by an iron bridge^ To the W. is the Sierra del
Fedroeo. The railway reaches MMda^ one of the provinces of Estrema-
dura. -- The last part of the journey lies through the hilly district of the
Sierra de Almorchdn. — 84 M. Almorehdn, see p. 454,
The Railway to Seville, skirting for a time the outliers of the
Sierra Morena, follows the right bank of the Guadalquivir as far as
Lora del Rio. The district traversed is sometimes fertile and some-
times barren , but nowhere imposing. The traveller from the N.
will, however, be interested in the southern vegetation, especially
in the aloe-hedges, with their tall, pole-like blossoms. Beyond
Cordova, to the right, above us, is the convent of San Jer<Snimo
(j?. 318). The domain of Cdrdoba la Vieja^ through which the line
passes , contains several enclosures (ganaderCas) for breeding bulls
for the ring. — 281 M. Villarrubia. — 288 M. Almod6var del Rio
has a fine * Moorish Castle, with a detached tower 130 ft. high. This
was used by Pedro the Cruel (p. 396) as a treasure-house. The
village lies on theE. side of the slaty castle-hill. — The train crosses
the Guadiato and several mountain-torrents. 293 M. Posadas, an
agricultural town with four graceful bell-towers. The dreary district
is occasionally beautified by an orange-grove, watered by a spring
rising from the rocky soil of the Sierra de Guadalbayda. We cross
the Bembezar.
300 M. Homaehuelos, The train crosses the Quadal Canal, To
the right is a road leadiiig to (26 M.) Constantina, a small town
with distilleries of brandy. — 306 M. Palma del Rio , in a fruitful
district at the confluence of the Guadalquivir with the Oenil (p. 334).
We cross the Retortillo.
309 M. Penaflor , the Roman Ilissa , is picturesquely situated
on the rapids of the Guadalquivir, which drive several mills, in-
cluding one of Moorish origin. The church has a fine tower. —
Extensive groves of olives are traversed. To the right, above the
wooded valley of the GuadaloacoTy are seen the ruins of the castle
of Sete FillaSj with a pilgrimage-ohurch. — 320 M* Lora dH Rio.
Beyond the station, to the right, is a pretty little church with a
belfry. Grain-fields, olive-trees, and orange-groves succeed each
other. The train crosses the Guadalquivir by an eight-arched
bridge, 840 ft. long.
330 M. Quadajoz, at the confluence of the Corbones (p. 422)
'th the GuadalquiYir , Is the junction of a branch-line to (9 M.)
mono (p. 422).
JA^N. 34, Boule. 305
333 M. Toeina Is the junction of the railway to MMda (R. 49).
To the S.£. rises the hill on which Garmona lies.
Onr line runs at some distance from the Guadalquivir, but the
high, reddish-coloured river-banks are often visible to the right. —
342 M. Brenes. In the distance lies Seville, its cathedral rising
over the other buildings, as Gautier has expressed it, ^comme un
elephant debout an milieu d'un troupeau de moutons couches'.
At (352 M.) Empalme the train is broken up into two sections,
the through-carriages for Cadiz running to the left to the Estaci6n
de Cadiz (comp. p. 387), while the main line follows the Guadal-
quivir to the E8iaci6n de C6rdoba of (356 M.) SevUU (p. 387).
34. From Espelny to Jain and Pnente Genii.
98 «. Railway (two thTotigli-tTains daily) In SVa-^V* hrs. (fares 18
p. 25. Up. 20. 8 p. 76 e.). Tbe only railway-restaurant is at Pttente Oenil.
— This linoi fonniDg the connecting link between the railway from Madrid
to CJordova (R. 33) and the railways of S. Andalusia, is interesting only
on account of Jain^ which well repays a short visit. Host travellers will
prefer the railway from Ja6n to €h'anada vii Cordova and Bobadilla (RR.
30, 38) to the tiring diligence journey from Ja^n (9 hrs.).
Espeluy, see p. 302. — Our line diverges to the S. (left) from
that to Seville, crosses the Guadalquivir beyond (38/4 M.) Menjibar
(p. 302), and then ascends the valley of its tributary, the OuadcU-
bulUSn, — 91/2 M. Villargordo. To the left lie the small towns of
La$ Infantaiy Cadhna^ and Torrequ^radiUa,
2OV2M. Jain (1800 ft.; Fonda Madrilena; Fonda Francesa),
the Auringia of the Romans, o-Uoe capital of the petty Moorish king-
dom of Djaiyan and occupied by St Ferdinand in 1246, is now the
capital of a province and has been the see of a bishop stnoe 1248.
Pop. 21,400. It is picturesquely situated at the foot of the Jabalcuz
and La Pondera^ the slopes of which are covered with luxuriant
vegetation. The chief crop of the Campina, which is watered by the
Jnen and the GnadalbuUon, is the garbanzo or chick-pea (p. 6).
— The Moorish walls of the city, made of 'tapia' (p. xxxviii), have
been almost entirely broken up, and the Puerta de Barreras is the
only gate of interest. Most of the streets are steep; the houses have
patios like those of Seville (p. 394).
The 'Cathbdeax ot the Assumption, situated in the Plaza d0
la Constitucion , on the highest part of the town , is an imposing
sandstone building, begun by Pedro de Valdelvira in 1632 on the
site of a Gothic church , which was itself the successor of an Arab
mosque. It was not finished till the end of the 18th cent., but in
its main features It is, like the cathedrals of Granada and Malaga,
a good example of the early-Renaissance style in Spain. The inter-
esting W. facade has three entrances , surmounted by reliefs and
flanked by towers 200 ft. high. The balustrade is adorned with
statues of St. Ferdinand, the Evangelists, and the four Latin
Church Fathers.
Babdsksb*8 Spain. 20
30C Route 34. MARTOS.
The Zntesior forms a recUngle 220 ft. long and 140 ft wide, and pro-
duces an effect of space and light. — The Capilla Mayo}% approached by
a flight of marble steps, contains a handsome retablo. The «illeria of the
Choir is finely carved. The Tratcoro is adorned witii a Holy Family by
Mariano Salvador Maella^ with statues of SS. Catharine, John, and Lucia,
and with a group of the Conception. In the 3rd side-chapel to the left
is a St. Jerome by Jote AtUoUnet; in the last chapel to the right is a
Conception by JS^HuHdn Martinet. The chamber below the K. tower con-
tains an old but repainted picture of the Virgin, which Bi^op Qoasalo de
ZiMiga used as a standard in his campaigns against the Uoors. A shrine
beside the high-altar preserves the Santo Rostro or Santa Faz^ one of the
napkins of St. Vercmioa, bearing an impression of the Saviour's face. This
is shown to the public on Good Friday and Assumption Day. — The Saoristia,
the Sala Capittdar^ and the Sagrario are all handsome. The silver custodia
by Juan Ruiz and the statue of St. Enphrasius deserve notice.
The most interesting of the' other churches are the Gothic San
Julian, the remains of 8an ABgvd (portal by YalJelvira), and
Nueaira Senora de la LuZy containing a painting by Albrecht Durer (?).
The Casas Capitulates (municipal buildings) and the Palacio
Episcopal stand opposite the cathedral. Both, like the new Palacio
de la Diputacidn Provincialy are devoid of interest.
Noteworthy private buildings are the Gothic palace of the Conde
del Villar del Pardo^ with a rich portal in the patio ; the Casa de loa
Masones, in the Plaza de San Francisco; the house oiOti9t6bal de
Vilchesy in the Paseo del Mercado ; that of Bishop Sudrez de la Fuente
del S&uce, with its fine Renaissance facade ; and that of Capitun
Fernando Quesada VUoa.
The Alameda commands a beautifui Tiew. — The Moorish Castle,
above the town, formerly the guardian of the road to Granada, is
now a heap of ruins. — Delightful walks may be taken to the
Fuente de la MagdaUna and to the Sulphur Baths of Jahaleuz^ 2 M.
to the S.W.
The DiLioENCB TO Granada at first ascenrds to the S.E. through the
fertile valley of the GuadalbuUon, and then runs to the S. through a
picturesque but solitary district, with few'signs of life except the roadside
ventas. — 7 M. Ventorillo de la Ouardia. Farther on are the Ventas del Chaval,
de las Paiomas, and del Romeral. — Before reaching the low-lying (22V2 M.)
CampUlo de Arenas the road passes through the Puerta de Arenoi, a tunnel
108 ft. long. It then surmounts the Sierra de Zucena and the Puerto Car-
retero and enters the province of Cfranada. Beyond the (35 M.) VeiUa del
Zegri we cross the Sierra del Afiuar^ obtaining a grand *View of the Sierra
Nevada. — At the Venta de las Ifavas we cross the CubiUas by a bold
arched bridge. A little later we traverse the Sierra de Elvira (2935 ft.),
a Jurassic range of hills named after the town of Elvira, which was de-
stroyed in the days of the Moors. On crossing the little Beiro, we reach
the Vega of Granada. Farther on we pass the Cartuja (p. 345), cross the
Campo de Triunfo (p. 345), and reach the Puerta de Elvira, the N. gate
of (49 M.) Granada (p. 331).
The Railway to Puente Genil runs to the W., oyer the fertile
campifia of Ja^n, crosses the Barranco de RegordlUa, and skirts the
slopes of the Sierra de Jaen, 29 M. Torre del Campo ; 31 M. Torte-
donjimeno (8900 inhab.). It then turns to the S.W.
36 M. HartOB, an impoverished town with 13,000 inhab., once
the seat of a bishop, lies on a hill above the river Grande, — To
A
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CORDOVA, 35, Routt. 307
the right, as we proceed, rises the precipitoas Penon de Iob Carvor-
Jalea, from which, according to tradition, the two brothers Oarvajal,
anjustiy cooTicted of murder, were thrown by order of Ferdinand IV.
of Castile in 1312. Before their death the brothers summoned the
king to meet them at the judgment seat of God, and thus Ferdi-
nand, who died a month later, received the surname of £1 Empla-
zado ('the summoned').
Beyond (46 M.) Vado-Jain the train crosses the Sierra Orande
and then descends to (51 M.) Alcaudete, Thence it runs to the N.W.,
through a hilly district watered by the Ouadajoz. 62 M. Luque-Baena,
the station for the village of Luque, which lies to the left in the
Sierra de Luque, and for (right) Baena, a town with 11,000 inhab.
in the province of Cordova, — 68 M. Dona Mtneia. — 76 M. Oahra,
the Algabro of the ancients, is a town of 11,100 inhab., prettily
situated on the S.£. spurs of the Sierra de MontiUa and on the N.
slope of the Sierra de Cobra, The latter range extends to the £. to La
Cima de Cobra, a summit mentioned by Cervantes in 'Don Quixote'.
The railway now enters the basin of the Genii (p. 334) , crosses
the river Cobra and the Sierra de Cabra, and reaches (82 M.) Lu*
o«na, a pleasant-looking town of 18,200 iohab., where Boabdil was
defeated and taken prisoner in 1483 (see p. 335). The making of
lamps is the most important of its varied industries. — 88 M. Zapa-
teros y 05 M. Campo Real.
98 M. Fuente QenU, see p. 319.
35. Cordova.
BaUway SUtions. 1. EgtoHdn d« MudHd, SeviUa, y Maloffa (PI. B, C, 1-,
*SesUuraHt, dej. 3 p.>t for all the Aadalnsiaa trains; 3. E$iaet6» 4e Cer-
eaditta (PI. A, 2), for the railway to B^lmez and Almorch6n (p. 903). Both
stations lie to the X.E. of the town. Omnibus General (p. xvi) to the hotels
50 c.; each trunk under 66 lbs. 50 c.; under 110 lbs. ip. (bargain advisable).
Hot«U (bargaining necessary; eomp. p. xx). *Fonda Suiza (PI. a; G,2),
kept by a Swiss (FueUii)^ in the narrow Calle del Paraiso, first-class, pens,
from 10 p.) on the capital of one of the pillars in the beautifdl patio is
an Arabic inscription. — ^Udr. be Oeisntk (PI. b; G,2), with electric light,
pens. 9-10, d^j. SVsP-; *Fohda EspaSTola (PI. c; G,2), pens.7-8p., these two
in the Paseo del Gran (3apitan and unpretending. — Casas db HtJKSPSDBS,
or boarding-houses: CueUro Nadonu, Calle San Pablo 33; Francisco Simon^
GaUe de Gondomar 7.
Oafaa (comp. p. xxii). *Cfffi de Colon, G. del Qran Capiian, G. iVtisoo,
all three in the Paseo del Gran Capitan; *Ct^4-BmC€ntrant j9e(M0, Calle Am-
brosio de Itorales (kept by PudnL, see above). — Qonfiieria BuisOj oppo-
site the last-mentioned caf^. ~ MontiUa Wine (p. 319), a kind of sherry, is
celebrated for its bouquet.
Post and Telafxapb 0£Ba6 (PI. D, 3), Plazuela de Seneca.
BooksttUan: Librtria del Dietrio de Cdrdoba, Calle de la Libreri*. —
Photographs: Tomdt MoHna, Calle del Conde Gondomar 1.
Bankets: Pedro Lopez i ftijos; Banco de EspaSki (Snccursal); Amador,
Purrieh V Vifia*.
Shops. The silver^flligree work of Cordova has been famovs ever since
jthe days of the Uoors. ^Cordovan* and ^Morocco* leather are now, however,
better obtained in Tangier (p. 381).
20*
308 Route 35. CORDOVA. History.
Oabt. Tariff within the town. With oae horse, per drive. 1-2 per?.
1, 3-4 pcrs. 1V» p., after midnight 2 and SVa p. \ per hr. II 2V2, 3, and 4 p.
With two horses, 1-4 pers., 2, 4, 3, 6 p. Trunk under 66 lbs. 50c., under
110 Iba. Ip., small baggage free. Prices are raised during the Feria.
ThMkjtra. Cfrcm Teatro (PI. 0,2), Pasco del Gran Gapitati. — Fkua de
T^ros (Pi. B, C, 2), to the N.£. of the Paseo del Orap Capitaa. ^Corridas'
are given during the Feria^ the great fair held twice yearly (May 25-27th
and Sept. 26-27th) in the Campo de la Victoria.
British Vioe-Oonsul, RicJuird Ethott Gear.
Principal Attractions (one day). Cathedral (p. 309) •, Bridge of Calch
horra (p. 317); Pateo dd Cfran Capitim (p. 300)-, P<mo de la Victoria (p. 309).
C(}rdova, casa de guerrera gente
Y de sabiduria clara fuente.
(Motto of Cordova).
C6rdova (390 ft.), Span. Cdrdoba^ the capital of a province and
a "bishop's see, is a city of 60,000 inhab., lying at the base of the
Sierra de C6rdoba, a spur of the Sierra Morena, on a plain sloping
gently to the Guadalquivir. The traveller whose expectation is on
tiptoe as he enters the ancient capital of the Moors will probably
be disappointed in all but the cathedral, the former mosque, which
is still, in spite of all defacement, the most Imposing monument
of its time. With the exception of a few Moorish doors and Arabic
inscriptions, the Christian Spaniard has either marred or destroyed
all else that would recall the Mecca of the West, the once celebrated
nursery of science and art. The city now presents a mournful pic-
ture of departed greatness ; it is, as Hi^ophile Oautier expresses it,
nothing but *le squelette blanch^ et calcintf' of its former self. The
streets are rough and narrow, the plazas are small, the houses are low
and whitewashed , the city- walls are in ruins, the 'solares' of the
once powerful noblesse are vacant. The view of th« Sierra to the
N. and of the ^Great River' to the S. is, however, a possession that
time cannot destroy, and the patios, with their flowers and orange
trees, are often attractive.
In his poem on the Second Punic War Silius Italicus writes: *nec decus
auriferee cessavit Cordtiba terris.* It was a place of considerable wealth
and commerce, and the so-called ttes Cordvbeme^ a kind of amalgam, was
widely known. In B. 0. 152 Cordova was captured, by M. MarotMut, who
settled it with Roman colonists, and under the name of Coloma Patricia
made it the capital of Hitpania Ulterior. In consequence of its espousal of
the cause of Pompey, it was occupied by Gsesar's lieutenant Marodlit$ after
the battle of Hunda (p. 321) and sharply disciplined. It soon recovered,
and in the imperial epoch alternated with Cartagena (p. 290) afl the capital
of thA- province of Bsetica. Under Vespasian it became the seat of the
provincial legislature. Leovigild took the town in 571 from the Byzantines
and made it an episcopal see. On the overthrow of the Yisigothic kingdom,
Cordova fell a prey to Mugtth ar-Rumi, who was assisted by the many Jewish
residents. It was at first subject to the caliphate of Damascus, but became
independent in 756 under the Emir ^Ahderrahmdn /., of the house of the
Omayyadee. 'Abderrahmdn HI. (912-961) raised it to the dignity of capital
of the caliphate of Cordova and metropolis of Moorish Spain. In this coign
of vantage it quickly became one of the wealthiest cities of Europe and a
centre of culture frequented by all the students of the Orient. The decay of
the city began in 1010, when it was sacked by the followers of ifbAamnMd //.
and the troops of SuMmdn. The dynasty of the Omayyades was over-^
PLANTA DE LA MEZQUITA AUAMA
DE CORDOBA.
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_: frinrriLiva-Mfziultj. j '. I I l^l '.
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Qnnrtlgote
SJfifual
Cathedral. CORDOVA. 35. Routt. 309
fhrown in 1061. Cordova declared itself a republic under the guidance of
members of tbe DJahwar Family^ but became subject to ScTille in 1078.
In 1091 began the lordship of the Ahnortmide*^ who had been summoned
from Africa to aid in resisting the Christians, and these were overthrown
in 1118 by tbe AJmohadMS^ another Berber sect led hjJAhdelmCmin. A period
was put to the Moorish rule in Cordova on June 29th, 1236, when St. Fer-
dinand captured the city. The banished Moors took refuge in Granada
(seep. 886) and were replaced by Christian settlers, under whom the town
persistently declined. The magni¢ buildings, the marvels of which
are celebrated by Arabic writers with Oriental hyperbole, fell into ruins ;
the irrigation-works were neglected, and the once exuberantly fertile cam>
pi2a beeame a barren steppe.
Among the many distinguished natives of Cordova may be mentioned
Seneca^ the Roman philosopher; Lucan^ the Stoic and author of the *Phar-
salia*; Averro9$, the famous translator and expounder of Aristotle, cele-
brated by Dante in his ^Inferno' (Canto iv \ ^Averroi's che il gran oomento
feo*) t AUha^ the poetess v the Rabbi Mose$ Maltnonida (1139) ; Juan de Uena
(ea. 1411-66), author of *E1 Laberinto", an allegorical poem in which Cordova
is called ^la /lor de saber y de eabaUnHa" ; the authors Lorentc de SepOheda
(d. 1074) and Ltrie de Gonffora (16ei-1627)( and the painters Ptiblo de C4epede$
(1638-1606) and Juan de Valdde Leal (1630-91). The 'Gran Capitan' Gonsalvo,
though born at Montilla (p. 819), is also closely connected with Cordova,
where he was baptized.
From the Main Bailway Station (PI. B, 0, 1) the new Paseo de
la Victoria (PI. B, 1-3), affording a fine view of the Sierra Morena,
leads to the S. to the Puerta de Almoddvar (PI. B, 3), a relic of the
lately destroyed Moorish wall. — The Ronda de los Tejaree (PI. B,
0, 2), diverging to the left from this paseo, about 1/4 M. from the
station, leads past the Plaza de Toros (p. 308) to the *Psseo del
OrsxL Capitan (PI. 0, 2), a frequented promenade, planted with
palms and orange-trees. On its E. side are the hotels and caf^s
mentioned at p. 307.^ On its W. side stands the Golboiata db SA^
Hip6lito, built by Alfonso XT. after the battle of the Salado (1340)
and modernized in 1729. It contains an Ecce Homo by VtUdes Leal,
the tomb of the historian Amhrosio de Morales (1613-91), and
those of Ferdinand IV. and Alfonso X/., transferred hither from
the Capilla Real of the cathedral (p. 316). Adjacent is the Oran
Teatro. A little farther to the S. is the church of San Nicolds de la
Villa, with a handsome octagonal and embattled tower.
We now proceed to the E. along the Calle del Conde Gondo-
raar, at the end of which, near the H6tel Suizo, we turn to the
right into the Calle de Jesus Maria (PI. 0, 2, 3). By following the
line of streets continuing this towards theS., we soon reach the
cathedral. In the Calle C^spedes (PI. C, 3) are some remains of
Moorii^ Baths.
The **Cath6dral (PI. C, 3, 4 ; closed 1-2 p.m.), formerly the
Mesdjid ot-Djdmf a (^ehief mosque') of the Moors, is the largest and
moflt noble monument of the religious architecture of the Arabs
of Spain , and second in size to the Kaaba of Mecca alone among
all the mosques of Islam. It is due, both in conception and execu-
tion, to the dynasty of the Omayyades. When the Moors captured
CordoTa they found this site, close to the N. bank of the Guadal-
3 1 0^ Route 35, CORDOVA. CaihedraL
quivir, occupied by the ViBigothic Church of 8t. Vincent. Accord-
ing to some writeis, it was this spot that was lortifled by the
400 Christians, who offered the Moors an obstinate resistauoe
for three months after the rest of the city had been taken ; and
their final death by fire gare the church its surname *of the
captives' or *of the burned'. It is more likely, however, that the
scene ^of this last despairing effort of the Visigoths in Andalusia
was the church of San Aoisclo, to the N.W. of the city, near the
Sierra de Cordoba.
One of the conditions of the surrender of the city was that the
Christians (Arab. Adjemi, strangers) should be allowed to retain the
exclusive use of their churches. The Moors, however, took pos-
session of half the church of San Vincente; and ^Abderrahmdn I.,
founder of the Omayyad dynasty, purchased the other half from the
Christians in 785, in order to make room for ihe erection of a
Mohammedan temple, which should be the religious centre of the
Faithful in Spain and divert the stream of pilgrims from Mecca to
Cordova. Up to that period there had been no specifically Arabian
style of architecture. The Arabs had hitherto practically followed
the models of Home and still more of Byzantium, though in the
shapes of the arches and domes and in certain other elements there
were already manifest the first traces of the characteristic Moorish
fanoy and the embodiment of tbe spirit of Islam, which were to
reach their glorious apogee in the third mihr^ of the Mosque of
Cordova and in the arabesques and vaulting of the Alhambra.
The 'Zeca't or ^House of Purification' of *Abd^rahman, which
was constructed mainly of the columns and"lother materials of the
Christian church, occupied only about the fifth part of the present
building. It contained 10 rows of columns, dividing it longitudin-
ally into eleven, and transversely into (probably) twelve aisles or
alleys. The central aisle was a little wider than the others, and a
short prolongation of it, projecting beyond the enclosing wall,
formed the Mihrdb or prayer-recess.
This building, which was adjoined on the N. by a Court of
Ablutions (Arab. Haram, sacred enclosure ; Span. Path de las Ab-
luciones), was nearly complete at the death of 'Abderrahman (788).
His successor Hisham J. erected the tower (al-mindr or es-sauma^a^
here generally named ul-kcLdima, or the ancient) for the Muezzin
(crier of prayers); he also furnished a place of prayer for women
{jU'iokifa^ an 'open gallery') and placed a fountain (al-mtdd) in
the middle of the court.
The mosque of ^Abderrahman I., however, soon became inade-
quate for the population of Cordova, which was steadily increased
by accessions from Syria, Arabia, and Africa. ^Abderrahmdn IL,
t Thi0 name gave rife to a Spanish ptoverb, quoted by Cervantes
(Don Quixote, I. iii. 4): andar de Ceca en Mtcca^ to saunter idly from one
place to another.
Cathedral. CORDOVA. 35. Route. 311
therefore, undextook an expansion of the Zeca towards the S., by
adding seven aisles to the orig;inal ten rows and making a new
mihrlb. The mosque as thus enlarged extended to the present
Capilla de Nuestra Sefiora de YillaTioiosa (p. 315) and contained
80 eoluniDS more than the old one. It was building from 833 to
the month of Djum&da in 848.
The snoceeding ruler, Abu 'AbduUah Mohammed /., restored the
original building and began the decoration of gates and walls. He
also built the MakeHra , or railed platform reseryed for the caliph
and lii0 court, and the Sdbdi^ a covered passage by which the caliph
could veaeh the Makstra from the Alcazar (p. 317) in order to offer
his weekly (khoiha; on Friday) or daily prayers (a^-^aldt),
'Abdenahman III., sornamed ar^Ndairy the greatest of the
Omayyads and the creator of the wondrous palace and suburb of
az-Zahr& (p. 818), built another tower, in place of that which had
been damaged by an earthquake in 880, and furnished it with the
M^heneh, or room for the MueEzin (p. 310), and with two stair-
cases, one for the ascent and one for the descent. He also (958)
restored and strengthened the court-facade of the temple, as is
recorded by an inscribed tablet adjoining the Puerta de las Palm as
(p. 313).
The llnest expansion of the mosque was, however, due to the
CaUph al-H6kim //. al-Moitansir-biUdh, who in 961 et seq. caused
it to be nearly doubled in extent by adding 14 new rows of columns
on the S. side. This addition was effected under the superintend-
ence of his ^hadjib' (maire du palais) Dja'far ibn 'Abderrahmdn
eS'SilUabi. Hakim also erected a new MaJuttra (the dimensions and
description of which form a favourite theme of Arab authors), a
new Sdbdt, and a third Mihrdb, which is still perfect and is with
justice regarded as the gem of the whole building. For the mosaics
the Greek emperor at' Constantinople sent skilled workmen and
320 owts. of mosaic tessene. Four years and three months were
spent on these works, and when they were complete Arabic writers
could assert of the Mosque of Cordova that 'in all the lands of Islam
there waa none of equal size, none more admirable in point of work,
construotion, and durability.'
Up to this time all the extensions of the mosque had been made
in the directj.on from N. to S. ; the breadth of the original building
and its main axis had not been altered. A farther prolongation
towards the S. was hardly practicable, as the new mihrab, in con-
sequence of the declivity of the site, was already high above the
level of the ground. No obstacle, however, stood in the way of
such an expansion towards the E. as was accomplished (987-990)
by Al-M^msUr, the *hlldjib' of the weak Caliph Hisham II. This
consisted of eight new rows of columns from N. to S., so that the
mosque now contained 19 aisles in its length and 35 in its breadth.
The court was correspondingly enlarged.
312 RouU35. CORDOVA. Cathedral.
This addition completed the huge hull ding. It also, however,
marked the beginning of its decline, as is shown in the conven-
tional, andoftendebased treatment of individual members. Moreover,
while the necessary space for worshippers was furnished on a large
scale, the Mihrdb^ or Holy of Holies, was displaced from its natural
central position, and the apparent axis of the building was falsified.
At the same time this extension increased the general impression
of endless space and made the mosque a veritable ^forest of columns'.
On the capture of Oordovfc by St. Ferdinand in 1^38 the mosque
was consecrated to the Virgen de la Asunddn, The various changes
and mutilations it suffered at the hands of the Christians will be
duly noted in the following description of its details.
The ground-plan of the building forms a rectangle about 570 ft.
in length and 425 ft. in width, thus having an area approximately
equal to that of St. Peter's at Rome. Of this about one-third is oc-
cupied by the large court, the other two-thirds by the mosque itself.
Court and mosque are surrounded by an embattled wall, strength-
ened by 35 tower-like buttresses. On all sides except the N. this
wall stands on massive substructures or terraces ; It varies in height
from 30 ft. to 65 ft. The buttresses are 11 ft. wide at the bottom
• and 7 ft. wide at the top. The triangular or flame-shaped battle-
ments are 33 inches in height. The exterior thus forms, as in most
Oriental buildings, a monotonous and almost unadorned mass of
masonry, of a fortress-like and forbidding character. The object of
the building is indicated only by the tower and by the numerous
Gatbs on the W., E., and N. sides, between each pair of which there
was once an arched window. The gates, of which there were orig-
inally 22, were surmounted by richly - adorned horseshoe arches
and furnished with bronze-mounted doors.
Of these gates there are still extant the following. W. side, in
the Calle de Torrijos (formerly de Palaoio) : Postigo de la Leehe,
PoHlgo de lo8 Deanes, Postigo de San Est^an^ Postigo de San
Miguel, Puerta de Palacio. — E. side, in the Calle del Meson del
Sol, approached by a terrace and flights of steps: PosHgo de Santa
Catalina, Puerta Maitina^ Postigo del Sagrario. On these three, as
well as on the other and walled - up gates of this side, are pre-
served Arabic inscriptions and Roman milestones from the old road
to Cadiz. — N. side, in the Calle del Perd6n : Puerta de CanigordOj
Puerta del Perd6n.
The most interesting of all the gates is the Puerta del Perddny
leading to the Court of Oranges. It is 13 ft. wide and 25 ft. high,
and is surmounted by a bell-tower. Its horseshoe arches and Moorish
decoration seem to stamp it at first sight as an Arab work ; but the
various inscriptions and images of saints show its real origin. It
was, in fact, erected in 1377 by King Henry of Trastamara in imi-
tation of the similar gate at Seville Cathedral. The ♦Doors are
plated with copper, and the knockers (Hlamadores') are of the same
Cathedral. CORDOVA. 35. Route, 313
materiftl. On the copper plating are the word *Deua\ in Gothic
characters, and the Cuflc inscription *the lordship belongs to Allah
and his protection'.
The Campanario or Bell Tower^ which is 300 ft. high, takes the
place of the mnch lower minaret (al-minar) of 'Ahderrahm&n III.
(p. 311). The latter, like the Giralda of SeTille(p. 400), consisted
of several stages of equal diameter, and was surmounted by silvered
and gilded balls and by open lilies crowned with a golden pome-
granate. The form of this tower being unsuitable for Ohristian
worship, the greater part of it was taken down in 1547 ; and the
present tower, designed by Heman Rui% (p. 316), was erected in-
stead in 1593 et seq. The earthquake of Lisbon (Nov. 1st, 1755)
neeessitated considerable repairs and modification. At the top is
a figure of St. Raphael (p. 317), with a vane.
The entranee to the tower Ih on the E. side (adm. 20 e.) ; it is ascended
b J 225 steps. The top afibrds a good bird^s-eye view of the mosque itself],
with its modern roofs (comp. p. 316), and commands a wide panorama of
the cit7, the river, and iht mountains, and over the desolate campina to
the Moorish castle of Almoddvar (p. 304) on the W.
The •Patio i>b los Na&anjos (*court of oranges'), the former
court of ablutions (p. 31i)), is the first great surprize that the in-
terior has to offer after the dismal appearance of the outside. Light,
spacious, well-shaded, and always enlivened by a few groups of
quiet visitors, it offers, with its five fountains, its green turf, its
orange-trees, and its palms, a characteristic picture of Oriental re-
pose. It is surrounded on three sides by a colonnade (clavMtro), the
N. walk of which has, however, been walled up and now serves as
the chancery of the cathedral (offieinas). On the fourth side (S.)
stands the mosque itself. The fountains correspond in number to
the Moorish midls (p. 310), but probably occupy different positions.
The court snd the mosque made originally one whole. The
orange-trees, planted in parallel rows, formed, as it were, a con-
tinuation of the rows of columns in the interior. The 19 arched
gateways, now reduced to three, corresponded to the 19 aisles or
alleys. The character of these gates is shown by the last portal to
the E. , leading from the cloister into the easternmost aisle of the
mosque. — The main entrance to the mosque is the Puerta de laaPal-
men (or Areo de las Bendieiones\ which is immediately opposite the
Puerta del Perd6n (p. 312) and opens on the original oentral aisle
of the mosque, with the mihrab. This portal was originally Moorish
but was ornamented by Henry II. in the Muddjar style and provided
with Images of the Virgin and the Archangel Gabriel.
The Intb&iob of the Mosqub resembles in its arrangement that
of the older Egyptian mosques. It forms the second great surprize
of the visitor in spite of its moderate height (38 ft.), in spite of the
destruction of the perspective by the Christian additions, in spite
of the simple tiles that replace the original rich mosaic flooring, in
spite of the monotony of the characterless modern vaulting. For th
314 i2otte«35. CORDOVA. Cathedral.
forest of columns seems endless in the subdued light. The visitor
should absorb the general effect before proceeding to an examina-
tion of the details.
The Columns, of which thjere are still 850 or more, are tradi-
tionally reported to have been brought from the East and the "West,
from the ruins of Carthage, from the old Roman temples of S. France,
and from the churches of Spanish towns captured by the Moors.
As a matter of fact, they were nearly all obtained at Oabra (p. 307)
and in other Andalusian quarries. They show the greatest diversity,
not only in material (marble, porphyry, jasper, breccia) but also in
style. A few late-Roman and Yisigothic capitals are found among
innumerable varieties of Byzantine and Saracenic workmanship.
The shafts are usually smooth, though a few are twisted ; none have
bases. As the columns are only about 13 ft. in height, a double row
of arches had to be interposed between them and the roof. The
lower tiers of arches spring from the capitals of the columns, while
the upper rows are supported by high pillar-like imposts placed on
the tops of the columns. The lower arches are in the horseshoe form,
the upper aiches are round-headed. The general effect is one of
singular and vigorous life ; the flowing nature of the arches above
the motionless and upright columns recalls the crossing and inter-
lacing jets of innumerable fountains.
The 19 AisLBs are all of the same height and width, except the
original central aisle leading to the mihrib and the two adjoining
it on either side. The Tbansybbsb Aisles are so narrow as to be
little more than corridors or passages. The columns and arches
were devoid of ornamentation, except that the latter were painted
red and white. This served to throw into greater relief the Ceiling,
the prime glory of the building. The open-work roof was made of
larch wood and richly painted in red and gold. Arabic writers, prob-
ably with some exaggeration, assert that 280 chandeliers with 7425
lamps hung from the roof, and expatiate on the enormous quantity
of oil that was consumed daily. ^The gold shines from the ceiUng
like flrej it blazes like the lightning when it darts across the clouds.'
As in all mosques, the culminating point of the decoration was
the holy Mihrdb, or prayer-niche, also called Kibla (south), because
its axis was directed towards Mecca. The mihrab was enclosed by
the maksi^ra (p. 311).
The first mihrab (see p. 310) has entirely disappeared. The
second mihrab, constructed under 'Abderrahmlln II. (p. 311), was
sadly mutilated by the first Christian additions to the mosque
(p. 315), but its *VB8!riBULE ( Vestibulo del Segundo Mikrdb), with
its superb shell-vaulting, has lately been freed from disfigurements
and carefully restored (.1892).
The third ♦♦Mihba.b (Mihrab Nuevo) , erected by Al-Hakim
(p. 311), is a small chapel-like structure with seven sides, the saered
character of which was emphasized by a vestibule and two side
Cathedral. CORDOVA. 35. Route, 315
looms. The preservation of this marvel of Moorish art. is due partly
to the fact that the vestibule was conyerted by the Christians Into
the CapiUa de San Pedro^ of which the mlhrab Itself became the
sacristy, and partly to the fact that the altar of this chapel concealed
and protected the mosalo-wall of the mlhr&b down to 1816. These
chambers have now been freed from disfiguring additions, and are
very effectiye both as a whole and in detail, though the restoration
they underwent In 1816 was very Inadequate (fee to the sacristan
for opening the gate y^^i p.). The interlacing arches of the vesti-
bule reet upon marble columns ; the dome is in the form of a pine-
apple ; the walls are coyered by brilliantly coloured mosaics, inter-
sected by Arabic inscriptions. These fine mosaics were executed
by Byzantine workmen, but the attempts at restoration are yery un-
satisfactory. — The beauty of the yestibule Is, howeyer, trans-
cended by that of the mihrib itself, a small recess about 14 ft. in
diameter. The celling (hubha), 28 ft. aboye the floor, consists of a
block of white marble hollowed out into the form of a shell. The
magnificent entrance-archway rests upon two green and two blue
columns taken from one of the earlier mihr&bs. The walls are
panelled with richly carved marble. The white marble pavement
is worn by the devotion of the pilgrims, who made a sevenfold
circuit of its walls on their knees j hence the Christians scornfully
named it the Capilla del Zancarr6n (*of the bare bone'). — The
E. side-chamber, now the Capilla de la Cena, formerly contained
the magnificent Moorish pulpit (al^Mimbat)j which Ambrosio de
Morales called the Silla del Rey Almansor, It was a desk mounted
on wheels and bearing a splendid copy of the Koran, written by
the Caliph Omar, second in descent from the Prophet, and sprinkled
with his blood. — The Sdbctt (p. 311), which ended at the W. side
chamber, has now vanished, like the pulpit and the maksiira.
Along with the rooms for the attendants of the temple, this origin-
ally occupied two of the transverse rows, now converted into chapels.
The alterations of the Christian Spaniards were at first limited
to the construction of a few chapels in the outermost aisles of the
mosque. Some of these were built against the partition-wall be-
tween the original mosque and the extension of Al-Mansur (p. 311),
the place of which is recognizable by the remains of the old E. Gate,
As early as 1260, however, it was found that the needs of the
Christian ritual demanded a choir ; and to make room for this were
sacrificed the vestibule of the second mihrlLb (p. 314) and parts of
the adjoining six aisles. A relic of this building is found in the
CapiUa de Nuestra Senora de ViUavidosa^ which was erected in the
Mud^jar style by Moorish workmen as the CapiUa Mayor, To this
was soon added the sacristy, now the CapiUa de San Pablo j which
enclosed the Capilla Real (1371), erected by Henry of Trastamara
for the tombs of Ferdinand lY. and Alfonso XI. (p. 309).
The century of reaction against the Reformation finally broup^'
316 Route 36. CORDOVA. CaihedraX,
the Renaissakob Choir, -which, with its CapiUa Mayor and a Tran-
sept (cruceio), was 250 ft. long and displaced no fewer than 63 col-
nmns. The Town Coancil of Cordova in yain threatened with
death all those who shonld help in this work. Charles Y., -with an
imperfect understanding of the sitnation, gave the chapter the ne-
cessary authority, and the hnllding was begun in 1523. The orig-
inal plan o{ Heman Ruiz was afterwards partly altered, and the
work was not finally completed till 1607. Though in itself a
masterpiece of plateresqne architecture, this Christian choir has
for ever destroyed the harmonious proportions of the mosque.
Charles Y. himself expressed this feeling in the words he addressed
to the cathedral chapter on visiting Cordova in 1526 : ^You have
built what you or others might have built anywhere, but you have
destroyed something that was unique in the world'.
The building of the lofty choir naturally involved the destruction
of part of the roofs of the aisles. This process of destruction was
abetted by the gradual disappearance of the leaden gutters separat-
ing the roof of one aisle from those of its neighbours. The lamen-
table result was the thorough dilapidation of the Moorish wooden
ceiling, which had to be replaced in 1713 by the present feature-
less vaulting.
Few of the Christian Art Treasures of the bailding are of much value.
The fine Silleria in the Choib was executed by Pedro Gornejo (d. 1758) in
the richest baroque style. The Pulpiis , with the attributes of the Evan-
gelists, are by Miguel Verdiguier (1766). The Choir Books are finely illum-
inated. The silver Chcmdelier^ dating from 1636, weighs 400 lbs. The
elaborate Sigh AltaVy by Matias Alonso (1618), is adorned with a painting
by Palomino.
In the S.E. comer of the cathedral is the Pasboquia, or parish-church.
— There are in all 46 Latkkai. Ohapels, few of which call for mention.
The Gapilla de la Cena (p. 815) contains a painting of the Last Supper by
Cdspedes. It is adjoined on the left by the Sala Capitular^ with a fine
statue of St. Theresa bv Alonso Gano and figures of eight other saints by
Jos^ de Mora. On a pillar adjoining the Capilla del Santo Cristo del JPunto
is an Annunciation with saints, an altar-piece by Pedro de Cdrdoba (1475).
— In the pavement, opposite the CapiUa de San Pablo (p. 315), is the
tomb of the painter Pablo de C^spedes (p. 309). — The Crucifix^ visible
on a column in the fifth row, to the left of the main entrance, is said to
have been scratched by a Christian captive with his finger-nails, as re-
corded in the Latin verses inscribed on the column. — The Sacbibtt con-
tains a splendid custodia by Enrique de Arphe (1513), which is not shown
except by special permission.
To the W. of the cathedral , in the Galle de Torrijos , are the
church of San Jacinto (PI. 0, 4), with a rich Gothic portal, and
La Cuna , or the foundling-hospital , officially known as the Casa
ProviTicinl de Expdsitos, To the S. is the large Palacio Epibcopai.
(PI. C, 4), built in the 16th cent, and renewed in 1746. The Sala
de Atidiencia contains portraits of all the bishops of Cordova. The
pretty walled garden is full of lemon-trees trained on trellises.
The Calle Amador de los Rios leads between the Bishop's Palace
on the right and the Seminario de San Pelagio on the left to the
Alcazar. CORDOVA. 35. Route. 317
Camposanto de loa Mdrtirta (PI. C, 4), or CampiUo, supposed to be
the spot of the Christian martyrdoms under the Moors. On the S.
side of this plaza, on the site of a palace of the Gothic King Rod-
erick, lies the —
AlcAsar (PI. C, 4), an extensive pile of buildings, with massive
walls and towers and gardens , formerly extending on the N.B. to
the cathedraL The S. part of it is the Moorish Alcazar Viejo, of
which little remains except a few towers, a bath, and a water
ronduit. The N. part is the Alc&%ar Nuevo, built by Alfonso XI. in
1328 , once the seat of the Inquisition and now a prison. On the
river, by the S.E. comer of the latter, is the entrance to the Huerta
del ALcdzart now in private hands (fee 60 c). This should be visited
far the sake of the striking picture afforded by its luxuriant vege-
tation, the crumbling ruins, the springs, the Torre de Paloma (S.W.),
and the Torre del Diablo (N.E.). — From the Camposanto de los
Mirtires we may proceed to the S.W. to the Barrio del Alcdzar
ViejOy whence we may walk towards the N. to the Pueria de Almo'
d6var (p. 309), or go on through the Puerta de SeviUa (PL B, 4) to
the Cementerio (PL B, 4), which was laid out in 1817.
To the S. of the cathedral rises the Triunfo (PL C, 4) , erected
in 1766 in honour of St. Raphael, the patron-saint of Cordova, by
two French artists, Oraveton and Verdiguier. Just below is the
Puerta del Puente, a Doric triumphal arch, erected by Herrera under
Philip II. and said to occupy the site of the Moorish Bib al-Kantara,
The reliefs are ascribed to Pieiro Torrigianij who, however, died
in 1622. This gate leads to the Moorish *Bridge (PL C, D, 4),
with its 16 arches, which connects Cordova with its S. suburb,
Campo de la Verdad, The bridge is 730 ft. long and stands on
Roman foundations. From the middle of it we have a good view
of the Moorish Mills, on the Guadalquivir, and of the Mosque, the
massy masonry of which , dominated by the lofty choir and the
belfry , stands out clearly against the background of the Sierra do
Cordoba (N.). At the other end of the bridge is the Calahorra or
Carrahola (the Iberian Calagurris), the massive t^te-de^ont at the
beginning of the road to Seville.
From the S.E. angle of the cathedral the Oarrera del Puente
runs to the N.E. to the Pasio de Ribera (PL D, E, 3), a favourite
promenade of the lower classes, leading along the Guadalquivir to
the E. to a weir with a group of Moorish mills and to the Capilla
de lot Mdrtiret,
Farther to the E. , beyond the extensive Campo de Madre de
Dios, is the Santuario de Nueatra Senora de Fuensanta (PL F, 3),
where a much-frequented festival takes place on Sept^ 8-1 0th.
We now proceed to the N., skirting the remains of the city-wall,
to the church of El Carmen (PL E, F, 2), containing a fine altar-
piece by Valdes LeaL Or we may follow the Calle del Sol to the
W. to the church of San Pedro {VI, E, 3), and thence thread the
318 Route 36, CORDOVA.
narrow streets to the N.W. to the Corrtdera, now occupied by the
Mercado (PI. D, 3), hut formerly an open square, surrounded with
arcades and used for tournaments and bull-flgbts. — To the N.W.
of this point lies the Casa de Ayuntamiento (PI. 3 ; D, 2), whence
the Oalle de Alfaros runs to the N. , past the Puerta del Rincon
(PI. D, 1,2; 1406), to the large Campo db la Mbbcbd (PI. 0, D, 1).
On the W. side of this lies the Hospieio (poorhouse) and to the
N.E. rises the Torre de Malmuerta (PI. D, 1) , said to have been
built by a knight in 1406 in expiation of the murder of his wife.
From the S.W. corner of the Campo the Calle Osario, continued
by the Calle Ramirez Ayellanos, leads to the S. to the Gothic church
of San Miguel (PI. C, 2) , the S. aisle of which is adjoined by a
beautiful chapel in the Mud^jar style. Hence we return through the
Calle de la Plata to the CaUe del Conde Oondomar (p. 309).
The other Chubchbs of Cordoya, such as Santa Marina (PI. D, 1),
San Agustin (PI. E, 1), and San Lorenzo (PI. E, 1, 2), are com-
paratively uninteresting. — The Museum (PI. D, 3), in the Escuela
Provincial de BtUas Aries ^ is also of little importance. It contains
paintings and drawings by Zurbaran^ Ribera^ Castillo, C^pedea,
and Jtum de Mena , a few Roman and Moorish monuments and in-
scriptions, a stag of bronze, and other antiquities (fee 50 c). In
the Plaza del Potro , in front of the museum , stands a Fountain,
with the figure of a colt, the cognizance of Cordova, as mentioned
by Cervantes. — A few of the Private Houses deserve notice, such
as that of Jer6nimo Paez, in the plaza of that name (PI. C, D, 3), with
its handsome Renaissance portal, and those of Don Juan Conde, the
Marquis de ViUastca, and the Conde del Aguila. — The Hospitax
DEL Cabdenal or Hospital de Agudos (PI. C, 3) contains the Capilla
de San BartolomS, formerly the Mosala of Al-Mansiir (p. 311), a
beautiful little structure in the Mud^jar style.
Ezenniona. On a spur of the Sierra de CkSrdoba, to the W. of the
city, stand the Ermiia* de Valparaiso or Convento ErmitaiiOy which may be
visited by a drive of i-6hrs. (there and backj carr. and pair about 16 fr. ^
bargaining necessary). A permission to visit the Ermitas (for men only)
may be obtained in the Bishop's Palace (p. 816) for any week-day. There
is not much to see in the Ermitas themselves, but the drive and the
views (especially that from the SiUa del Obttpo) are deservedly renowned.
With this excursion may be combined a visit to the fine Quinta de ilrri-
$e^fa, the RUte/a of ^Abderrahman, immediately to the K. of the city. —
An excursion (Less important) may also be made to the ConverUo de San
Jerdmmo, 4>/s M. to the K.W. in the Sierra de C6rdoba. The convent,
which is now an insane asylum, was built in 1405, probably with the
remains of the celebrated MeditMi a$-Zahrd (G&rdova la Vieja)^ where
'Abderrahmftn III. constructed a palace for his favourite Az-Zahr&. Accord-
ing to Al-Makkari and other Arabic writers, this palace was on the scale
of a town rather than a villa , while its wonders of art and luxury were
such as to make even those of the Alhambra pale by comparison. Its
cost is said to have been more than 50,000,000^. ! — Excursion to Almo-
d(5var, see p. 304.
319
36. From CArdoYa to MAlaga vii Pnente Oenil and
Bobadilla.
120 M. Railway (two trains daily) in 61/4-671 hn. (fares 24 p. 46,
18 p. 36, 11 p. 10 c). There are also a local train between Cordova and
Pumie OeMlj and two trains between Alora (p. 820) and Malaga. The
trains start from the Main Railway Station at Cordova. There are railway
restonxaBts at C&rdova^ PuenU OenU^ and Bobadilla (meal -station). —
Passengers for Ja€n and Espeluy (K. 34) change carriages at Putnte Omil;
for UirorOt StvilUy and CadU (R. 42) at La Roda (p. (KX); in the reverse
direction at Bobadilla) \ for Qrandda (B. 38) and for Eonda and Algeciras
(Oibraltar; R. 40) t^i Bobadtlla. — For the lag gage-arrangements at irategra,
comp. p. 331.
Cordova, see p. 307. — The train touches at the suburban
station of La Cercadilla (p. 307], runs for a little parallel with the
railway to Seville, then turns to the S., and crosses the Guadal-
quivir by a bridge 650 ft in length. Beyond the river it traverses
the dreary hill-district of the Campina, which is intersected by the
yellow Ouadajoz, The parched fields are overgrown with thistles.
Groves of acacias and a few straw-roofed huts relieve the mono-
tony. Fine retrospect of Cordova, the Sierra de C6rdoba, and
Almod6var (p. 304). — 5 M. VaUhilldn.
At Valchillon diverges the Direct Railway fbom Cordova to Cadiz
(165 M.„in 8-IOV4 hrs.; fares 38 p. 75, 24 p. 86, 16 p. 25 c). The most im-
portant intermediate stations are: 86 M. Eeifa; 62 M. Marehona (p. 887);
80 M. Empahnt d» Morfin (p. 387); and (90 M.) Utnra (p. 427). This
line IS, however, of little interest to travellers for pleasure, who will nn-
doubtedly prefer the route viE 8«vill« (R. 33).
We cross the Quads joz several times. — 15 M. Torrea Cabrera,
Beyond (21 M.) Femdn Nunez begins an undulating district with
"Vineyards and extensive olive-plantations, which reach to the valley
of the Genii (see below) and beyond it.
31 M. Montilla (1166 ft.), a high-lying town with 13,000 in-
hab., is celebrated for Its white wine, resembling the sherry of
Jerez (p. 429). The Palace of the Duke of Medinaceli was the
birthplace of *E1 Gran Capitan' (p. 309). — The train sweeps round
the E. side of the town, with the Sierra de Montilla and its vineyards
to the left, and descends through cuttings. We cross the Caftra (p. 307),
351/2 M. Aguildr de la FronUra, a town with 10,800 inhab., is
also known for its 'Montilla wine' and olives. — Farther on, to the
right , are the two small lakes of Zonar and Rine6n , surrounded
with olive-trees and abounding iu fish. To the left is the old
Moorish castle of Anzur, now belonging to the Duke of Medinaceli.
Fine view of the valley of the Genii and the Andalusian coast-moun-
tains. — 45^2 W- Campo Real.
471/2 M. Puente Oenil, the junction for the railway to Jaen
(R. 34), lies 2 M. to tbe S.E. of the town of the same name
(8900 inhab.), which is seen to the right as we cross the lofty
bridge over the Genii. Below lies the village of Palomar. — The
railway now traverses a comer of the province of Seville and ascends
a plateau, in the middle of which rises the inconsiderable Sierra d
320 Route 36, BOBADILLA.
TSgwUj the source of several streams flowing to the ^.,W., and ^ \
To the E. rise the first mountain-chains of Upper Agdalusia. J 1
66 M. Casariche, mainly Inhabited by charcoal-buirers. — ^Vw — ^
ascend through the valley of the Teguas to — ~~ ■ —
62 M. La Boda, a place of no importance except as the junctli
of the railway to Utrera (Cadiz, Seville j R. 42),
Our line runs to the S.W. and soon reaches its highest poi
(1475 ft), on the border-line between the provinces of Seville ai
Mdlaga, — 70 M. Fuente de Piedra, the Fons Divinus of the Romai
with mineral springs useful to sufferers from the stone. To t]
right, amid olives, lies the Laguna Salada^ a large salt-lake, tli
crust on which in the dry season resembles a sheet of ice.
77 M. Bobadilla (1245 ft.; *Rail. Restaurant) is the junctitj
for trains to Malaga, Granada (R. 38), Ronda-Algeciras (Gibraltal
R. 40), and Utrera (Cadiz, Seville; R. 42). All trains stop he|
long enough for a comfortable meal at the railway-restaurant.
The Malaga railway enters the valley of the Ouadalhorcey whi<3
descends from the E. and soon receives the waters of the Quadateh \
and the Bwrgo , both rising in the hill-district of Ronda (p. 369)11
Beyond a tunnel we cross the river, 85 M. Qohantts (i040ft.),l
the station for the baths of Cartairaca^ 11 M. to the S.W. <
Beyond Gobantes begins the deep and wild gorge of the •Hoyt
('hole', 'pit') or Qiorto^ by which the river forces its way througlj
the calcareous slate strata of the coast-range. The train remains ofl,
the left bank, threading 11 tunnels and crossing lofty bridges ovel|
the lateral ravines (canadas). The finest point is near the sixtlj
tunnel, but there is little time to realize the grandeur of the sceneryj
89 M. ChorrOy in a wild rocky landscape. After passing through!
three short tunnels, we suddenly emerge on a scene of souihera'^^'
luxuriance, with the first oranges, palms, and cypresses. The travel-
ler coming from the bleak plateau of Castile is now at a step exposed
to the magical charm of an Andalusian sky and subtropical vege*
tation, — The train crosses to the right bank of the Guadalhorce.
97 M. Alora (330 ft.), the ancient Iluro, a town of 6700 inhab., [
lies to the right, in a beautiful situation at the foot of the Sierra
delHacho^ a favourite resort of the citizens of Malaga. A much-
frequented feria takes place here on Aug. 1st. — The water of
the Guadalhorce is led off in numerous small channels to irrigate '
the huertas. Beyond a final tunnel the valley expands, Werecross.
to the left bank.
102 M. Pizarra^ another station for visitors to Carratraca (see ^
above). The bed of the river becomes broad and sandy. To the^'
W. is the high-lying Casa Rabonela , to the S. the Sierra de Mijas. '^
107 M. Cdrtama^ the Roman Cartima. The village , with a
Moorish castle, lies 2^/2 M. to the S.W,, on the right bank of the
Guadalhorce, which was once navigable to this point. The Sugar
Plar^tations have suffered greatly in recent years from night-frosts. y<
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MALAGA. 37. RouU. 311
From Cirtama a diligdnee nins to the 8.W., ap the valley of the Bio
Steo^ to Oma, a town of 8700 inhab. , finely situated amid mountains and
surrounded by rich Tineyard« and groves of oranges and lemons. Thenee
the diligence goes on to Monda, tbe Munda of the ancients, where Csesar
defeated the sons of Pompey on March 17th, B.C. 45. We then traverse
the mountain-pass between the Sierra de Qvaro on ihe W. snd the Sierra
de Miftu on the E., and descend via OJtn to MttrbeUa (U.S. consular agency
and British vice-oonsnlate), on the road from Malaga to Gibraltar. -^ Another
diligcBce connects Coin with the small town of Aihaurin el Grande^ situat(>d
to the S.B., on the N. slope of the Sierra de Mijas, and also girt with
grovef of oranges and lemons. 4 bridle-path leads hence to the S.E. over the
mountains to the small town of Mijasy whence a fine road (beautiful views)
descends to Benalmadma and Torremolinos (p. 824), on the road to Malaga.
113 M. Campanulas y on a tributary of the Guadalhoree bearing
the same name, which waters the celebrated wine-growing district
of ATMxrquCa (N.). The valley expands into the Hoya de Mdlaga
(p. 323), a wide plain^ The railway leaves the Gnadalhorce, which
turns to the S.E. To the S. , at the base of tbe Sierra , appear the
villages of Akmrinejo and Ckvfriana, and then the sea. To the left
is Malaga, with its factory-ohimneys.
120 M. Malaga^ see below.
37. Malaga.
Arrival. At the Railway Station {Sttacidn del Fetrccarril; PI. A, 5)
are waiting Hotel Omaitttiet^ Cabs^ and ihe Omnbus General (25 c). The
last runs to tbe Deepacho Central (p. xvi), in the Pue rta del Mar. As there
is generally some delay in disfrlbuting the luggage, the best plan is to
give up the luggage-ticket, in return for a receipt, to the railway-official,
who goes through ihe train, like an American transfer agent, between
Bobadilla and Malaga rnd undertakes to forward luggage to the passenger #
hotel or house (25-50 c. per piece). — A&rival bt Sea (comp. p. xviii). The
charge for landing is 50 o. per person and for each trunk. The transport
to the Aduana and the hotel, all told, should not cost more than 2-3 p.
(baif aining advisable).
Hotels (comp. p. xx). ''HdTKL de Roma (PI. a^ G. i), on the N. side
of the Alameda, first-class and well fitted up, with lift, pens. 12-20 p. \
*HCxEt iNGLfis (PI. b; G. 4), Galle del Marques de Larios 4, with view
of the Alameda, penA. 6-12 p., unpretending; HCtel IvoLfis, same street,
5, pens, frcm 61/2 p. j Hdist. de Pabis, same street, at the corner of tbe
Plaza dela Gonstitucion, pens. 6- 10 p. -^ Pension of Fernando de la Cdmara
(PI. d ^ G, 8), a well'famished house in the suburban quarter of the Caleta,
not intended for transient guests, pens. 10-12 p.
OaMa. Oa/d Vietoria, on the groundfloor of the hotel of that name ;
Cafi-Jiestaurant JngUe^ fee above; Ca/i-Restaurant de la Loba^ Cafi EtpaSia^
Plata de la Gonstitucion *, Cafi Univereai^ Calle de Granada; Ce^i-Restavrant
Btmdn CortU (PI. G, 8), in the Galeta (p. 323). — Bbbk at the AtMrican
Bar, Calle del Marques de Larios.
Oaba (chief stand on tbe Alameda). Cab with two seats, per drive 1,
perlir. 2 p., at night 2 and 2y«p.; with four seats, IV2, 2V2, 3, and 3 p.
~ Drives outside the (own by bargain. To Pa^a (p. 828) about 5 p., to
8anJo$4 and La CoMepcidn 10, to TorrenwHr.oe and La Consula (p. 328),
15, to Fuente de la Reina (p. 328) or to YeUz-Malaga (p. S28) 25-30 p.
Saddle Horses may be bired of Valero^ Calle de la Puriflcacidn,
<V»p. peir day. — Donkeys: JcU Femandts, Calle del Cauce; 2V< P« for
^^^a*day, 4 p. per day, as much again for attendant.
^ Tramways. 1. From the RaVway Station (PI. A, 5) by the Calle de
CuirWes to the Piterta del Uar (PI. C, 4). — 2. Prom the Railmcy Station
^r tbe CaJle de Gnarteles, the Calle de Torrijos (PI. B, C, 2, 3), the Plasa
Babdbker'i Spain. 21
322 Ro^37. MALAGA. Situation,
dt Riego (PI. D, 3), and %ht Calle de Granada to tke CorikiM del Mvelle
(PI. C, 4). — 3. From the J*uerta del Mar (PL C, A) by the jklameda and
Caleta to Palo (p. SOB) every Vs hr. (to the Gaf^ Heman Cortet every 1/4 hr).
Poet and Telegraph Oftee (Correo 9 TeUgrttfot; PI. D, 3), Galle Gister,
to the K.E. of the cathedral. Poete restante letters are distributed 1 hr.
after the arrival of the mail-traine.
Batha* A. Porra$ (also hair-dreaser), Galle del Harqu^ de Larioa 9,
elean> bath IV4 p. } La» DiUsiaty Galle de San Francieeo. — fte* Bfttlw
(June-Sept.). Mstrella (PI. S, F, i)y ApQl» (PI. F, 4), both in Malagaeta.
Theatre*. Teairo de CervmUee (PI. D, ^), to the ^.W. of the Plasa de
Biego, with occaBional performances of Italian opera; Teatro Frincifioi
(PI. C, 2, 3), for dramas ( Teatro Oireo do Lara (PI. B, 4), Galle Torre Qorda,
for eomedies and farces. — Cafes Oantantea (oomp. p. m}-. Oafi del Sigla^
Cafi Tvrco^ for men onlv. — Bull King {Plaea de Torot; PL B, 3), in
Malagneta, for about 11,00J spectators.
Oonanlatea. Britiih Gonsul, Alexander Fhkn^ Gortina del Maelle 93 (with
Engliah circulating library) ^ Pro-Consul, Cha*. Coicai^. — U. S..GQ^sul,i^. Mf.
Bartleman; Vice-Consul, T. R. Qeary.
Englieh Church in the British Cemetery (p. 327}, On the Galeta road;
service on Sun. at 11 a. m. ; chaplain, Rev. Arlkw Mvant,
Bngliah Physician, J)r, Clarence Vuicic, CaUe de Vendeja 7. — ioaar-
ican SentiBt, Dr. Whitmarsh^ Calle Martinez» at the corner of the Calle
del Marques de Larios. —Druggist: Farmdeia de Candles^ Calle de Com-
pania 16.
Bankers. Rein d: Co.^ Alameda Hermosa ; Amat EermanoSy Plaza de los
Moros; Clemens A Petersen, Cumming d; Van DtUken, Alameda Colon.
Shops (comp. p. xxiii). The best an ii^ ih& Calle del Marques de Larios,
the Calle de Puerta del Mar, the Calle Nueva, and the Calle de Granada.
Wine Kerchants, Crooke BrotherSy Alameda 15^ Bduarda Loring; Hijos
Ramos Potter; Jimenez d: Lamothe. Good Montilla wine (p. 319) may be
obtained at the Soleras de Montilla^ Calle de Comedias. -^ Malaga BaiaiMi
(pasas)y packed in taeteful boxes, are sold by Clemens^ Pries, jRefn, etc.
Steamers ply more or less regularly to the chief Mediterranean ports,
England, Prance, N. Germany, America, and other parts of the world.
Among the lines of chief importance for tourists are those of John BtM
A Co.y sailing Iveekly to Cadiz, Lisbon, and London (agents, Crooke Bros. y
see above); the Cunavd Co. (agent, Loring^ and Moss Co. (agent, C. Farqu-
harsony Cortina del Muelle 65), for Liverpool, at Irregular intervals; Com-
pagnie TrtmsatlanUgue^ sailing every second Sun. for Gibraltar and Tan-
giers (agent, Juan RoosCy Calle de la Bolsa 1).
Chief Attractions (visit of 1 1/2 day), 1st Pay. Koming : AUmeda
(p. 324), Harbour (p. 325 ; view from E. mole), Cathedral (p. 325), view froin
the tower of the cathedral or from the Qihralforb (p. 327). Afternoon:
English CemeUry (p. 327), Caleta (p. 328), and Palo (p. 328). — 2rid Day.
Excursion to the Hacienda de San Josi and La Concepci^n (p. ^QS). The
environs of Malaga are exceedingly beautiful.
Malaga, the capital of a pToyiiioie, the see of a bishop, aii€L the
oldest and most famous Spanish seaport on the Mediterranean^ is
picturesquely situated on the last spurs of the miOuntaia<-faQgee
that enclose the wide Bahta de McUagCy forming a semioircte ab(mt
50 M. long under the names of Sierra Tcjea^ Sierra de Alhamdf Sierra
deAbdalajiSy And. Sierra de Mijas, The inner part of the bay is
bounded by the Puthta de ios C&ntales on the E. and by the Torre
de Pimentel, at Torremolinos, on the W. In the nilddle of It pro-
jects the Gibralfaro, or acropolis of Malaga, and at the foot of this
hill is the beautiful harbour on which lies the city, with its
117,200 inhabitants. The old town is hounded on the ^,})y the
rambla (p. xxxviii) of tiie Quadalmedina (Arah. 'townHriver^), which
aUwMon. MALAGA. 37. Route. 323
often oTerfiows ite banks after rain and canies auoti enormous masses
of debris into the sea, that the Arab wharves and the Puerta del
Mar, formerly situated on the beaoh, now lie considerably to the
N. of it and In the heart of the city. On the right bank of the
nmbla, which is spanned by three bridges, are the suburbs of
Pcrc&ef, Huelm^ and Trinidad^ while to the N. of the old town lie
the new Barrio$ (suburbs) de Capuchino$ and de la Victoria, The
Barrio de la Malagueta Is a sixth suburb, springing up on the sand-
banka to the £. of the harbour; and still farther to the £. are the
two charming residential suburbs of La CcUeta and Limonar, the
one lying on the S. slopes of the Cerro Colorado, the other nestling
in a side-valley traversed by the rambla of th« Limonar,
The heights to the E. of the city were formerly celebrated for
their wine, but have been laid entirely waste by the ravages of the
phylloxera. The fruitful Vboa or Hota db Malaga lies wholly to
the W. of the city and forms the delta of the Guadalhoice (p. 321),
of whlob Malaga may be regarded as the port. The luxuriance of
the vegetation exceeds all expectation. Oranges, figs, sugar cane,
and cotton all thrive here, the figs ripening as early as June. Among
the other lavish products of the soil are melons, almonds, pome-
granates, sweet potatoes (batatas), prickly pears (higochumboa),
olives, ehirimoyes or custard-apples (Anona ekerimolia), and Japan-
ese medlars (Photinia japonica). During Aug. and Sept., particul-
arly in the latter month, the export of these fruits is very large. —
Wine Qsowino Is now practically confined to the Axarquia (p. 321),
to the N.W. of the city, and to the Montea de Malaga and de Col"
menar (p. 328), to the N.E. Even In the time of the Moors the fame
of the Shardb al-Malaki rivaUed that of the ZebM of Seville; at
present the Muscatel wines, the Dulce and the Ldgrimaa, are most
highly esteemed. The raisins (pasas) of Malaga are as fine as those
of Almerfa. The vintage begins before Sept., but the shipment of
the crops Is not concluded until December. — The market of Malaga
Is also well supplied with Fish, the favourite varieties being the
boquerones, peteadai, salmoneUi, and ealamares. The oysters are
not so good.
The natural advantages of Malaga are supplemented by a busy
and steadily growing Indust&t. The numerous mills and factories
for the production of sugar, iron, cotton , and other goods afford a
spectacle that is rare indeed in Andalusia. Among the best-known
establishments are the Laarioa Cotton MilU (Fdbrica de Algodonesjf
at the Barrio de Huelin, and the Heredia Sugar Refinery (p. 328).
Almost all the manufactories are on the right bank of the Guadal-
medlna, and their smoke seldom Invades the old town on the
opposite bank.
A vigorous effort has been made of recent years to ^boom' Ma-
laga as a WiNTBB BssoBT, but its success is seriously hindered by
the dirt of the streets and by the inefficiency of the drainage
21*
324 Routed?. MALAGA. mtttrry.
system. The annn&l death-rate Is jnst under 40 per 1000. The lack
of dnst-ftee pTomenades is also mneh felt. Such patients as are
willing to brave these evils should take up their abode in the Tilla
quarters of Galeta and Limonar. — Malaga draws a supply of ex-
cellent Watbb from a mountain- torrent near Torremollnos (p. 321),
but the amount is no longer adequate to the needs of the growing city.
The CuMATB (comp. p. xxxi) is notable for its equability and
mildness. The summers are cooler than in the interior of the penin-
iaula, while the winters, with occasional exceptions, are dry. Snow
and frost are extremely rare. — The local wind generally follows
the course of the sun. The Vendahal^ or S.W. wind, is damp and cold
in winter J in summer, when it is known as Ltvecht or BrUa del Sur,
it is reftreshingly cool. The Levan*erOj or E. wind, is always laden
with moisture. The only dreaded wind is the dry Terral, a kind of
mistral, which descends from the Sierra de Abdalajis through the
Hoyo (p. 3ti0} N.W.), bringing with it the summer-heat of the cen-
tral plateau, while in winter it is icily cold. Invalids have to keep
their rooms when the Terral blows in winter.
The Histmry of Malaga, the Malaea of the aneients, bpgins with the
Phodnicians, who probably named it from the word malae Cto salt'), be-
cause it was a depot for v^alt-flsh. Strabo says of it ^multumque tM con-
ficetur sal»amenti\ The town retained its Punic character CMalaea tnagin
ad FanicM formam aecedW)^ even after it had been made a Roman muni-
cipium by Scipio. A bronze tablet in the Villa La Concepcion (p. 328)
records its municipal organization under Domitian. In 571 the Visigothic
King LeovigUd wrested Malrga from the Byzantines. The Arabs, who crn-
qoered it in 711, assigned the district ('riO<^*) to the Khvnd at Jordan
(^dwellers to the E. of the Jordan'). They deemed it an earthly Paradiae,
and Al-Makkari^ Edrtsi^ Thn BatCta, and Ibn al-Khatih vie with one another
in e^ctolling its advantages. From the middle of the 13th cent, onward,
Malaga and AJmerfa (p. 299) were the two chief seaports of the kingdom
of Granada (p. ii35).
The glories of the city were suddenly eclipsed on its capture by Fer-
dinand and Isabella in 1487, and it soon sank into utter insignificance.
Its coat-of-arms under the Christians represented the Moorish Alcasaba
and the Oibralfaro, with the tutelars San Ciriaeo and Santa Patita, but-
rounded by a border of bows and arrows. In the middle is Ferdinand's
motto: tanto monta. — The French General Sebastiani sacked the town
in 1810. In recent times Malaga has always been on the side of the Opposi-
tion and has revelled in *pronunciamentos\ such as that in favour of
Espartero in 1843, that against Isabella II. in 1888, and that in favour of
the Republic in 1873.
From the railway-station (PI. A, 5) we reach the old town by
crossing the Puente de Tetuan fPl. B, 4), a handsome iron bridge.
This leads to the ^Paseo de la Alameda (PI. B, G, 4), a promenade
1/4 M. long and 135 ft. wide, planted with plane-trees and surround-
ed by well-built private houses and hotels. Glimpses of the sea are
obtained through the side-streets to the S. The *Fuen1e de Tfeptuno^
a charming marble fountain at the E. end of the Alameda, was prob-
ably made in Genoa in 1560 at the order of the city of Malaga.
According to another tradition, it was originally intended for the
palace of Charles V. at Granada (p. 364), was captured at sea by the
corsair Barbarossa, and recaptured by Bernardino de Mendoza.
Catkedral. MALAGA. 37. RouU, 325
A few yards to hhe S.£. of the AUmeda lies tke Harbour {Puerto ^
PU C, D, 4| 6), to the N. of which stands the cathedral (see below),
only in part concealei hy the low huUdings round it. while farther
to the £. rise the Alcazilba and the Gibralfaro (p. 327). On the wide
and animated Gojeltina del Mubllb (PI. C, D, i, 3) stands the Adth-
ana (custom-house; PI. D, 3), built by Charles 111. at the end of
the 18th century. Below this street, to the right, are the preparations
for a prolongation of the Alameda and the laying out of other new
streets. On the W. side of the harbour is a wide new quay. On the
lang mole projecting into the sea on the £. (1588) are the Pasco de
la Farol'jf the Faro or Lighthouse (PI. D, 5), and the Baterfa de San
Nicolas. The mole affords fine views. Towards the S. the harbour
was long open, but it is now protected on this side by two smaller
moles. — From the harbour to Calda and Palo^ see p. 328.
From the Alameda the short Calle de Torre Gorda leads to the
N.W., past the Tcatro Circo de Lara (p. 322), to the Calle de
Atarazanas. Here stands the Meroado (PI. B, C, 4), the ancient
Ataraxana (Arab. Ddr as-San'a, arsenal, workshop), originally a
Moorish wharf. The only relic of the old building is the principal
entrance, with its horseshoe arches, two shields, and the motto of
the Nasrides (see p. 360) : *there is no conqueror save God'. The
market is seen at its best in the morning.
A little to the £. the Alameda is quitted by the two chief
business-streets of the city: the old Puerta del Mab, continued
by the Calls Nueya, and the new and handsome Calls del Mab-
QU^ DB Labios (PI. C, 4, 3). The latter, with its hotels and caf<^s,
is also a fayourite resort of the fashionable and leisured classes. —
Both streets end on the N. at the Plaza de la Coxstitucion (Pi.
C, 3 ; formerly Plaza Maydr), which is adorned by a fine Fountain^
with three figures emblematical of the prosperity of Malaga.
The quarter extending to the N. of the Plaza de la Constituoi6n
as far as the Calle de Torrijos consists of a labyrinth of narrow and
dirty streets. The stranger should therefore turn to the N.E. and
follow the Calle de Gbanada (PI. C, D, 3), another important
business -thoroughfare. Where it touches the Plaza del Siglo we
turn to the S. (right) and enter the Calle de Molina Lario, in which
stand the PaUicio Obispal and the cathedral.
The ^Cathedral (PI. C, D, 3 ; open 7-11 and 3-4.30, in summer
4-5.30), an imposing building, unfortunately masked by additions
at its £. end, occupies the site of a Moorish mosque, which was
converted in 1487 into the Gothic Church of the Incarnation. The
plan of the present edifice, which is built entirely of white lime-
stone, was probably due to Diego de Siloe and was approved by the
chapter in 1538. The building progressed but slowly, but the arms
of Philip II. and Mary of England (1554) are found inside it. In
1680 it was partly destroyed by an earthquake, but in 1719 the
work was resumed with greater energy. The end of the 18th cent,,
326 Route 37. MALAGA. Cathedral.
ho^erer, found It still utiflnlBhed. The long period oyct which the
Imllding was spread accounts for the architectural inconsistencies
and the deviations from the original plateresqne design.
The main or W. facade, flanked "bj two projecting towers, is
tamed towards the Plaza del Obispo and rises in two stages, artic-
ulated hy Oorinthian columns. The three portals are approached
by a flight of 15 marble steps. To these portals correspond the
round-headed windows in the second story, the upper row of which
is flanked by two circular openings. The N. tower (280 ft. highj
has a third stage with Corinthian columns, surmounted by an octagon
with a dome and lantern. The S. tower has not been carried beyond
the second story, though traces of an intention to erect a third are
seen here as well as on the central part of the fagade. — The
Puerta de las CadenaSj in the N. transept, and the ^eria del Sol,
in the S. transept, are also flanked with towers.
Tbe Interior is 875 ft. long, 24fift. wide, and 190ft. high; it consists
of nave, aisles, two rows of side-chapels, coro, transept, and ambulatory,
and is distinguished hy its adry and yet massive proportions. Two rows
of pillars, placed one above another, support the round arches of the rosette-
studded vaulting; the lower pillars, ' with their Corinthian pilasters, re-
semble those of Qranada. — The round-headed Windows are arranged in
vertical groups of three; the uppermost in each line is flanked with cir-
cular openings. — The Pavement is flagged with red and white marhle.
The Cafilla Mayos, designed by Alomo Cano^ is formed by a semicircle
of 16 isolated pillars. The handsome altar, in the form of a four-sided
temple with a dome, is modern. The five scenes from the Passion are
by Citar de Arbacia (1560). The SilleHa del Coro (1592-1631) is an &d-
mirahle work by Vergara the Townger and Diat de Patadw. The seats
were executed in 1668 from designs by LtUe Orlit and Oiiueppe MieheU,
The numerous carved-wood *Figures, mainly statues of saints, are by
Pedro de Mena (p. Ix).
The 16 Chapels contain nothing of much importance. In the CapiUa
del RomHc (drd in the right aisle) is the Madonna of the rosary, with
six saints, a large picture by Aloneo Cano. In the CapiUa de la Comeepeidn
(4th) is a Conception after Murillo. The CapiUa de lot Repet (Ist in the
ambulatory) contains the Beheading of St. Paul, a huge painting by
JSnrique Simonet (188^. By the altar are kneeling figures of the ^Catholic
Kings' and tiie image of the Virgin, which they are said to have con-
stantly carried with them during their campaigns. In the next chapel,
that of San P'randeco^ are the tombs of two bishops and a Pietk ascribed
to Morale*. The CapiUa de la Encamacidn contains a handsome marble
altar by Juan de Vilkuuieva.
The *ViEW from the X. tower is more picturesque than that from
the Gibralfaro (p. 327), though not so extensive.
To the N.W. of the cathedral lies the Saghabio, the garden of
which is open to the public. The rich Gothic portal on its K. side
is the only vestige of the original cathedral. — Opposite stands the
Hospital de Santo Tomd$. founded in 1505, destroyed by an earth-
quake in 1884, and rebuilt in the Moorish style in 1889-91. To the
E. of it is the Post and TeUgraph Office (PI. D, 8).
The Calls ds San Agustix, passing the Casa de AyurOamierao
(PI. D, 3), takes us back to the Oalle de Granada (p. 326). At the
£. end of the latter street, to the right, lies the church of Santiago
I Mayor (PI. D, 3), erected in 1490 on the site of a mosque. The
Gihralfaro. MALAGA. 37. RouU, 327
KHTer part of the tower belonged to the Moorish building. — The
0«ll6 de Orsnada ends at the spacions Plaza, db RnsGo (PI. D, 2, 3 ;
p. 437), in tb6 pretty grounds of whioh is a monument to General
Joei Metria Torrijof and his 49 adherents, shot in Malaga on Dec.
ilth, 1681, for their uprising in favour of the Oonstitution (^eon-
Btitueidn 6 moeEte' !). On an obtiisk are insoribed the names of the
'Tfetimat* and some appropriate verses. — The Oalle de la Victoria,
running heaee to the N.E., has its name firom the churoh of El
CrUto de la Vietorieh, which marks the spot where the tent of Fer-
dittsnd the GathoHe stood during the siege of the town in 1487.
It ends at the Plaza de la Victoria (PI. D, E, 2), whence the Ca-
tmim» Nuevo leads to the £. (see p. 328).
Those who do not shrink from dirty streets and swarms of beg-
ging children may ascend from the Plaza de Riego to the S.E.,
through the miserable Oalle del Mundo Nuevo, to the Coraeha
(Heathern bag'), or saddle between the Gihralfaro and its S.W.
spur, the AlcasikbA (PI. D, 3). This hill-town, which was connected
by double walls with the Gihralfaro, was doubtless the site of the
earliest PhoBnician settlement. Under the Moors (13-1 5th cent.)
the Alcazaba was half palace and half citadel. Among the scanty
relics of its bnildings are the Arco de CristOy to the S.W., above
the Aduana (p. 325), and the Torre de Vela^ on which Pedro de
Toledo planted the Christian standard on Aug. 18th, 1487. It now
forms a confusing medley of houses, ruins, and gipsy-huts.
The •OibraKaro (PI. E, 2, 3 ; 560 ft,), the name of which is
derived from djehel (hill') aji^ pharos (lighthouse), has always been -
the true acropolis of Malaga. The ascent from the Coraeha (see
above) is comparatively easy. The buildings on the top date origin-
ally from the 13th century. Visitors are not admitted without an
order from the Gobernador, but a walk round the enclosing wall,
v^rhich follows the sinuosities of the ground, affords a series of charm-
ing views. Under favourable atmospheric conditions the Sierra
Bullones (p. 380), near Ceuta, in Africa, may be distinguished. —
From the Gihralfaro we may climb down to the E. to the depression
between the castle and the Cerro Colorado (Pt F, 2), and thence
descend- tO' the S.E., finally along an uttflnlshed foad bordered
with eucalyptus-trees, to the Camino Nuevo (p. 328). It is, how-
ever, preferable to return to the Coraeha and descend thence to the
£., above the barracks, to the Barrio de la Malagueta. Here, to the
right, near the N.E. angle of the harbour (p. 325), stands the Hos-
pital VJcible (P), E, 8), erected for aged seamen by Dr. Noble, an
English physician. Behind it is the Bull Ring (p. 322).
The Avenlda de Pritt^ an attractive promenade, leads hence to
«he B. to the *0«m^]iterio Ingl^ (PI. F, 8; generally open), the
butfal-plaiee of the English and other Ptotestants who die in Malaga.
By the m«in Mtrance is tiie monument of William Mark, the British
eonsvil, who obtained permission to lay out the cemetery in 1880.
328 BouU37. MALAGA.
Befoid that the ProteaUnts were simply laid Id the «aad of the
be&eh, -where the bodies were often nnoovered by the Mtlon of the
wind and waves. The grounds are well-kept and brightened by
flowers. Most of the graves are adorned with shells. The views are
flue. A tastefal little English Church was built here in 1891.
By the cemetery begins the viUa-suburb of Oaleta (PI. F, O, 3 ;
tramway, see p. 322), with its beautiful gardens. At its £. end is
the Caf€^Re$taurant ffemdn CortSs (PI. O, 3), a favourite resort in
fine weather. The Camino Nuevo diverges here to the left, and leads
round the N. slope of the Oerro Colorado and Qibralfaro to the Plaza
de la Victoria (p. 827). A few yards farther on is another road,
ascending the valley of the Limonar (PL G, 1, 2), which cont4ins
another villa-settlement.
Exonrsiont. The •High Road, affording beautlfal rlews, leads from
the Oafe Hernan Cortes to tbe £., pasaing a number of pleasant oountry
dwellings, to (2 M.) the fi8hi9g-village of Palo, the terminus of the tram-
way. Hence it runs on, keeping close to the sea and passing many sugar
plantations, to (27»/2 M.) ViUt-Mdlaga and (33 M.) Tcrritx. From Torrox
to MoirU (p. 349), 60 M. from Malaga, the road is very rough. — The
ascent of the Cerro d$ San AnUmio ia worth making for the sake of the
extensive view, which in clear weather embraces the African coast to
the S.E. The path diverges to the left, jnst before we reach Palo (see
above), and ascends along the bed of the brook Jdb<mero to (1 hr.) the
Haeiinda de CanaUt^ whence the top is easily reached.
Another fine road (views) leads from Malaga to the K.E., passing the
FuenU de la Reina, to (18 .M.) Oolmenar, the centre of the Jfvntes de Coi-
menar^ the rich argillaeeous soil of which makea the district a fine wine
country. — To the K. of the old town of Malaga is a road ascending
along the Guadalmedina to (2M.) the Hacienda de San Joad, the property
' of Don Tom^s Heredia (cards of admission obtained at Alameda 28), and
to '^La Gonoepcion, the villa of the Marqu^ de Gasa loring (tiokets at
the Gasa Loring, Hoyo de Esparteroj Fl. B, 4). The beautiful grounds
of these two villas are well worth a visit; the park of La Concepcidn also
contains some Roman antiquities from Cartama, Osuna, etc. — Among
the points most worth visiting in the vega to the W. of Malaga are the
TecUinoty on the way to Antsquera; the Buen Retiro, with its dilapidated
fountains} and C6M.) La Cofuula^ in Ghurriana. From the last we may
proceed to the 8. to Torremolinos (see p. 821). — Excursion to Cdrttmna
and Ahra, see p. 320.
38. From Bobitdilla (Cordova) to Granada.
77 M. Railwat (three trains daily) in 8»^-7V2 hrs.-, fares 17 p. 70,
14 p. 15, 10 p. 65 c. (from Cm-dova^ 163 M.^ in 8-10 hrs. ; fares 88 p. 40, 25 p.
95, 17 p. 80 c). The trains are often much behind time. — Kailway-re«
staurant at BobadiUa.
Bohadilla, see p. 320. — The train at first runs to tbe £. up the
broad and well-watered valley of tbe GuadaUiorce, 2 M. Apeadero,
To the right appear the summits of the Sierra de Abdalajis,
10 M. Ajtteqnera (1345 ft.; Fonda de la OMtena; Fonda.de
Europa\ the Roman Anticaria, is piotuxeaqn^ly situated at the base
of the Sierra de lo$ TorcaleA, Most of its 25,000 inbab. are tillen
of the soil, but there are a few palaces bearing the arms 9f a decayed
ARCHIDONA. $8. BouU. 329
ikMrnse, Fnm the Aluneda, in the lewei town, we aseend through
tlie Galle Real and up the flight of steps called the ^Cuesta de la
Imagen', to the ruins of a Moorish CaatU^ whioh the Regent Fer-
dinand, ^£1 Infante de Antequera^ captured in 1410. The Torre
Mochoj or main tower (view), is popularly known as the Papa BtUo^
tat (^acorns'), because its oonstruction is said to have absorbed the
entire sum received for a grove of evergreen oaks (encinat). In the
Plaza Alta, halfway up the hill, stands the Arco de Hercules or de los
OiganteSf with Roman inscriptions from Auticaria (^AtUequera la
Vieja^Jj which was used as a quarry by the builders of the 16th
century. — The ^colegiat^' of Santa Maria contains a gilded altar
of the 14th century. On the dome of San Sehastidn stands a coloss-
sal, armour-clad angel in bronze-gilt, wearing round his neck a
reliquary with the remains of St. Euphemia, the tutelar of the city.
The CHteva de Mengal, discovered in 1842, 1/2 ^' ^o the £. of the
town, is one of the largest chambered cairns in Spain (65 ft. deep.)
One of the greatest curiosities near Antequera is El Toroal* a labyrinth
of red marble rocks, a little to the S. , on the road to Malaga. This
*8tone foreat^ or ^stooe city' resembles that at Adersbach in Silesia, but
i« on a more exteosive seale. — The road to Malaga (29 M.) crosses the
paai named the Portatgo del Puerto 0^215 ft. : view) or the Boca del Asno
(^aas's mouth^), and passes the CiteJsta de to Jvatafua CHill of the Massacre*),
where Es-Zag^ (p. 336) annihilated a Spanish army led by Gifueates and
Aguilar in i&B.
As we proceed, the Ccrro de Vera Cruz^ with its ermita, is seen
to the right. The train crosses the Guadalhorce and passes the
eonspicuous Pena de los Enamorados or Rock of the Lovers, the
romantic legend of which has been told by Southey in his 'Laila
and Manuel'. The Spanish knight and the Moorish maiden, unable
to escape their pursuers, threw themselves from the top of the cliff,
locked in each other's arms. Beyond (15 M.) La Pena we skirt
the N. side of the well-tilled valley of Archidona.
22V2 ^' Archidona is the station for tjie town of that name
(6800 inhab.), which lies on a hill 81/2 M. to the S. The olive is
the characteristic tree here. Fine retrospect of the Pefia de los
Enamorados and the Sierra de los Torcales.
The dreary plateau to which we now ascend forms the watershed
(2600 ft.) between the Guadalhorce and the Qenil (p. 334) and the
boundary between the provinces of Malaga and Orandda.
31 M. Las Salinas. The scenery becomes highly interesting as
we descend to the *barranco' (gorge) of the Rio Frio and cross it by
a bridge 390 ft. long and 203 ft. high. We then cross the Plinet^
obtaining a view of the hills to the S. , the torrents of which drive
several mills. The savage landscape shows scarcely a trace of
human presence. We cross the road from Loja to Malaga and also
the Frio. Beyond two short tunnels we reach the cultivated valley
of the Genii, crossing that river by a bridge 80 ft. high. To t^-
right lies Loja. Beyond a third tunnel we obtain an unexper
2130 Bm^38. LOJA. From Bobadilla
and most imposing yi»9f of the wliite peakg of the /9<elTa NtiJoS^
(to the B.). — Passengers who mean to walk to Lojamay alight
at (84 M.) San Frandseo,
341/2 M. Iioja. From the station, on the N. bank of the Genii,
a road crosses an iron bridge to the town (Fof%da de la Etperanza,
Fonda de las Angeles , both poor) , which is pictnresqnely situated
on the S. bank , at the foot of the reddish-grey hills of Periquetes.
Loja, the Lacivis of the Romans and the Ldska of the Moors, ranked
with Alhama (see below) as one of the two *keys of Granada'. In 1488
it was captnred, after a siege of 30 days, by the *Caj;hollc Kings*,
chiefly through the aid of the English archers under Lord Rivers.
It was to Loja that the 'Gran Capitan* (p. 809) retired when he
fell into disfavour. The town has now 11,900 inhab., but it cotitalns
little of interest except the remains of a Moorish Cattle , and the
churches of Santa Maria de la Sncamtfcitfn and San Ga1)riel(imh. cent.).
Its description as 'flor entre espinas' is, doubtless , a little extra-
vagant; but perhaps the stranger may deem it worth a visit for the
sake, of its Moorish character, its copious springs, the rapids of the
fish-abounding Gentl (^Los Inftemos deLoja'), and its luscious fruit.
From Loja to Alhama (12Vz M.). The road crosses the Afanzanil^
which forms a fine watetfall (visible from the railway) jxist before it
joins the Oenil. It at firgt nms to the E. , but beyond the VerUa del
Pulgar it turns to the S.E. and passes 8alar. — i2V2 ltt> M^BaMxatk-ifarador
de San Francuco^ Posada de lo* CabaUerot, both very primitive), the Asfigis
JtUUntis of the Romans and Al-Bdmmeh of the llioors, is a town of
7000 inhab. , largely rebuilt after the earthquake of 1864. It is situated
even more picturesquely than Loja, lying on a rocky temtee of the Sierra
de Alhama. high above the little river Marchdu^ which here forms a deep
HajV (p. 370). . The Aqueduct in the plaza is a relic of the Roman period.
The capture of the old Moorish fortress on Feb. 28th, 1482, is bewailed in
a contemporary Hiipano-Moresque ballad (Ay de mi Athama), wall-kBOwn
to English readers by Byron's translation, beginning: —
The Moorish king rides up and down
Through Granada's royal town •/
Frony Elvira's gates to those
Of Bivarrambla on he goes.
Woe is me, Alhama!
The warm Sulphur Baths of Alhama (iOT-113'* Fahr.) , strongly im-
pregnated with nitrogen, lie below -the town, on the March^n (omnifouff)
and are visited from April 20th to June 20th and from Aug. Idth to Oct.
15th. The Betlio de la Reina is in the form of a Roman Pantheon and
probably of Roman origin. The Moorish Balio Fuerte lies near the spring
and is considerably warmer.
Beyond Loja the trsiin tirayerses a hilly, sandy district; the
Gknil and its vega (p. 831) lie to the right. 641/2 M. Huetot,
We cross two or three brooks and pass through a cutting, with
glimpses of the Sierra Nevada. — 56t/2 M. Tocdn^ at the foot of
th« Sierra de Prugo. — The railway approaches (N.E.) the hiarren
Sierra de Parapanda, which the countryside regards as a batometeJf :
Ouando Parapanda se pone la montera,
Lioeve «aiiqii« Diot no lo qviera.
(Wheu ?arapanda's brow is hid,
It rains, though God himself forbid.)
to Granada. SANTA Tt. 38. Route. 331
61 M. niota^ a town of 3800 \nk$b. , tn tke Gfiarc6n, with a
mined CMUe , was called by the Moors the *£ye of Granada'. To
tbe right is the estate of Soto de Roma^ presented by the Spanish
gOTemment to the Duke of Wellington; — 67 M. PinoB-Puente^
prettily situated on the Cuhillat , at the foot of the bleak Sierra de
EMra (p. 306), was tbe scene of a battle (1319) between the Gaetil-
ians and the Moors of Granada, in which the former wete defeated,
witb the loss of their leaders, the Infantes Pedro and Juan.
It was at PinoS'Puente that Oolcuiibiifl was overtaken by the messesger
of Queen Isabella in 1492, when he had given up negotiations with the
Spanish nonarchs in despair and was actually on his way to France.
The train now halts (in summer only) at the station for the
BuSios de Sierra Elvira ^ with their warm sulphur-springs (75-85^
Fahr.), which lie to the left, at tbe base of the mountains. We then
enter the celebrated Vega of OrarMda, an oasis in the midst of the
brown and arid mountains. This was once, before the Genii broke
through the mountains at Loja (p. 330), an oval lake.
71 M. Atarfe is the station for the poor little toWn of Santa 76,
which lies 3 M. to the S.W. , on the left bank of the Genii. Santa
F^ was constructed by Isabel the Catholic during the siege of
Granada (1491) in eighty days , and was laid out in the form of a
Boraaa camp, with regular streets crossing each other at right ang-
les. The capitulation of Granada , the original document of which
is at Simancas (p. 39), was signed here on Nov. 2dth, 1491, and
on the i7th April following the epoch-making contract with Col-
umbus, respecting his voyage of discovery to America, was also
signed here. Above the door of the Church , which was restored in
1773, is a trophy, representing a lance with a sheet of parchment,
bearing the words Ave Maria. This refers to the gallant deed of
Berrum Pirez del Pulgar (see p. 340) and to the subsequent duel
in which OareiUuo de la Vega slew the Moor Zegri Ta/rfe^ who
brought baok tbe parchment to the Christian camp and defied its
champions to single combat.
Near Atarfe , though some authorities think the site of the present
Oranada more likely , probal)ly lay the ancient Iberian town of Eliberri^
tiie JUberis or Munieipivm Flerentinum Jliberritanum of the Romans. In
304 ^r 306 Uiberis was the scene of tlie first great church-council held on
Spanish soiL It was probably destroyed on the Moorish invasion, as its
name disappears entirely from history. — In 1431 the neighbourhood of
Atarfe was the scene of an important battle in which the Gastilians
under Alvaro de Luna (p. 137) defeated King Mohammed YUI. of Granada..
This contest is known as the Battle of Bigueruelay because the tent of
King John II. of Castile was pitched under a small JSg-tree (higturwla).
As we proceed , we have a ^ew of the lofty Albaicin (p. 344)
and of Granada, with the Siena Nevada in the background.
77 M. Oranada^ see below.
332
Onuiada and the Alhambra.
The lUilway Station iEstaeuSn del Ferroearril; PI. B, Q lies to the
K. W. of the town , about iVj M. from the hotels in the Puerta Be*l and
2 M. from those near the Alhambra. The distributiun of the luggage
Generally takes some time, and the hotel-porter may be left to look after
t. The HoM Omnibutes drive off without waiting for it. The OnOUbw
General piles to the Dtspaeho Central (p. xvi), in th3 Paerta Beal, next
door to the Cafe Suizo (see below).
Hotels (comp. p. xx). a. ITear the Alhambra , in the cool and shady
Alhambra Park , about 1 H. above the town: *HdT£L Roma CSiOe Su4io*" ;
PI. a, F 2) and *HdTBL Washimgtok Ikying (PI. b ^ F, 2), belonging to the
same owner (Sefior Ortiz) and with similar prices, pens. i2Vt p., omn. 2 p.
Onggage extra). These hotels are largely frequented by British and
American travellers and are recommended to those who make a stay of
some time, especially in the warm season. Both are clean, and the serv-
ice is good. — h. In the Town: Hot. Alamxda (PI. c^ F, 6), in an airy
situation on the Carrera de Genii, with view of the Bierra Nevada, pens,
from 8 p.; H5t. Victoeia (PI. d; E, 6), on the W. side of the Pnet*ta
Real, frequented by commercial travellers and tourists, pens. 7Vt p. ^
HdT. DE LA Paz (PI. f ; E, 6), E. side of the Puerta Real, with no mountain-
view, unpretending. — Apartmente may be procured in the numerous villas
(cormenM, Arabic for vineyards) near the Alhambra and on the outskirts
of the town. Their equipment is generally very primitive. Carefully
worded written contracts are desirable.
Oafis (comp. p. xxii). Ca/4 ColiSm^ Calle de Mendez Nunesi 0, M Pmaje^
at the corner of the Galles de Mendez Kunez and Zacatinj (7. Suieo^
Paerta Real} C, de la Alameda^ opposite the hotel of that name: C. de
E»paSia^ Plaza Kueva; the last three somewhat shabby. — Oonfeecioners
(Pasteleria*). La Ferla^ Puerta Real, also restaurant; Lqs Alpes^ Plaza de
Ayuntamiento ; Lopez Hermanoi^ Calle de Mesones. •— The genuine Granada
Wine is the nut-brown Vino Seco. The best grapes are the Santa Paula,
a large purple variety grown at the Torres Bermejas (p. 3635 and
elsewhere.
Cabs (few in number) stand in the Puerta Real and the Plaza l^ueva.
Fare within the town, per drive 1, per hr. 2p. ^ with two horses, 2V2
and 3 p. In each cane the fare to the Alhambra is 2V2 p. extra, to the
Albaicin (p. 344) and Sacro Honte (p. 343) 5 p. extra.
Saddle Horses from Fernando^ adjoining the Posada del Sol, Calle de
la Alhdndiga; 6 p. per day. — Cycles may be hired at the end of the Carrera
de Genii, to the right.
Baths (Boilotk Calle de los Mesones. Cold Baths (JMIos de Aee^uia,
of water from the (ienil), in the Paseo del Saldn (PI. G, 4 ; in summer only).
Bookseller. Ventura Sabatel^ Calle de los Mesones 52.
Photographs. R. Oarzon, Calle de Gomerez 32 and near the Alhambra;
Ayolay Calle de Gomerez 14.
Post Office (Correo; PI. E, 4), Calle de Mendez ITunez. Poste restante
letters are distributed 1 hr. after the arrival of the mail- trains. — Tele-
graph Office, Plaza de la Mariana (PI. F, 4. 6). — Diligence Office (for
Jaen, R. 34, and Motril, p. 349), on the 17. side of the Puerta Real.
Theatres. Teatro Principal (PI. F, b\ Plaza de la Martana, for operas
and dramas; Teatro de Isabel la Catdlict (PI. F, 4), Plaza de los Cunpos,
for operas and comedies. — Bull Ring (Plaza de Torot; PI. B, C, 4), to
the if.W. of the Paseo del Triunfo; corrida<< in spring and summer.
Promenades* The Carrera de Genii (p. 347) is the fashionable winter
promenade (4-6 p- m.); the Paseo del Baldn (p. 348) and Pateo de la BonAo,
(p. 348) are frequented in summer, 5-7 p. m. A band plays on Thurs. and
Sun. , at 3 p. m. in winter and in the evening in summer. The Alameda
de Darro (p. 343) is the resort of the lower classes.
Festivals. On Jan. 2nd, the anniversary of the capture of Granada
bT Ferdinand and Isabella, a solemn procession makes its way, about
10 a. m., to the Capilla Real (p. 840) of the cathedral and to the l^ew City
Hall. In the afternoon the girls of Granada and the Vega ascend the
Siiuation, GRANADA. 39. Route. 333
Torre ie 1b Vel* (p. 364)B«iweeii 8 snd 4 p.m. ftnd «oand the b«ll in order
to eecnre a biMbftnd. The founlainf of the Albambr* play (eorrtn) at the
same time. — La Fiuia d'^l Corpus Oristi is celebrated In the Bibarrambla
(p. 337). — The /tfrto dt Ban MiguH (Sept. 29tb) assemble! the Grenc dines
and th« 'MoBtotinoa* (from tha mountains to the £.) at (h« firmita de San
Miguel (p. 344). — The annual Ftria or Fair takes place on June &-7th in
the Paseo del Violdn (p. 348). — All these festivals have of late lost much
of thdr interest and local colour.
IriftuOi TiM-OMaol, Cha9, B. B. DatmkiU, Buena Vista de los Mar-
tires. -> Bagliah Ghnrch Bervioe at the Washington Irving Hotel.
Baakera: Enrique Santos; Valtntin Affrela.
Ka«n of AdmiaaioB to tha Ohiof Bights: —
Alkambra (p. 81^, dally, 9-12 and 2-4. Visitors are aecompanled throogh-
oat by the attendants. Artists and students receive tickets 'para
estudiar' on application at the office of M . Contreras (p. 363), the con-
servator, between 1 and 2 p.m.
OtnenOift (f. 967), open all day. Tickets (pnpeletas) are issued free in
the (3asa de los Tiros (p. 347).
Cathedral (p. 387), open all day, except between 11 a.m. and 2.30 p.m.; the
Captiks Real (p. 340) either before High Mass (9 a.m. in summer,
U) a.m. in winter) or between 2.90 and 4 p.m. (summer 9^5 p.m.).
Some of t) e smaller churches are closed as early as 8.30 or 9 a.m. \
in this case application may be made to the sacristan. The other sights
are usually open all day, but ^12 and 2-6 will be found the surest hours.
The Gariuja (p. 346) and other points of interest to the K. of the city are
most conveniently visited by carriage.
Oaides, superfluous for those not pressed for time, may be obtained
at the hotels (fee from 5 p. per day). Almost all of them speak English
or French. The vaiets de place who proffer their services in the streets
and at the Albambra should, like the begging tip^7 children, be as far
as possible ignored. Strangers should not enter the Albaicin, especially
towards evening, except in large parties or under the protection of natives.
As to gratuities, see p. xxiv. It should not be forgotten that Granada is
*a hungry town".
Chief Attraotlons (two days). Akimeda (p. 348) and Faseo del Baldn
(p. 3i8)i Bibarrambla (p. 337); Cathedral (p. 337); Zacatin (p. 342); Plata
Nueva (p. 342); Alkambra (p. 349); Generali/e (p. 867); if possible, San
mcolas (p. 344) or the Cartvja (p. 346).
QranAda (2195 ft.), a city of 65,100 inhab., the capital of the
famous Moorish kingdom and of the present piorince of the same
name , the seat of an archbishop and of a university , is very pic-
turesquely situated at the base of two mountain-spurs (ca. COO ft.
high), which ascend gradually from W. toE. towards the Cerro del
8oL The northernmost of these long-stretched hills is the Alhaicin
(Arab. Babad el-bayydzln ^ ^quarter of the falconers') , the oldest
part of Granada and once the vaunted seat of the Moorish aristo-
cracy ; it now forms a town by itself, mainly occupied by gipsies.
The Albaicin is separated from the Alhamhra Hill to the S. by the
deep gorge of the Darro (the Roman ScUon, and Moorish Hadarro'),
a stream bearing gold in its sands but generally drained of all its
water for irrigation-purposes before reaching Granada. The Hill of
the Alhambra, the acropolis of Granada, is itself subdivided into
two parallel ridges by the gorge called Assahica by the Moors and
containing the Alameda de la Alhamlra (PI. E, F, 2, 3). The hill
to the N. of this gorge is the Monte de la Atsabica , or Alhambra
hill proper, while to the S. is the somewhat lower Monte Mauror,
334 Eot4t39. GRANADA. SUuatiof^,
guarded by the Torret Bermejaa (comp. p. 352). On reacMng the
hill of the Alhambra the Darro changes its course from W. to S.
and unites vith the much larger Oenil, the Singilis of the Romaos
and the Shtf^ or 8hind$kM of the Moors, a true Alpine tonrent,
fed by the snows of the Sierra Nevada and hence usually more
copious in summer than in winter.
Both the Albaiein and the Alhambra hills were occupied by the
ancient town of Oarnattdh , which may possibly have been founded
by the Iberians themselves. This place , which did not became of
any importance until after the destruction of Elvira (p. 306), was
taken soon after 711 by the Moors, who erected cU-Kasaba <il'kadhna
(*the old citadeV) on the Albaiein and then extended the Torres
Betmejat and alr-Kaiaha aUdjedlda (*the new citadel') on the Al>
hambra hill.
The fall of the various smaller Moorish states in th^ Iberian
Peninsula brought multitudes of new inhabitants to Granada , the
natural mountain-fastness of S. S^ain. These settled not only in
the fprtiiied towns on the tops of the hills but also on the lower
slopes. In this way arose the suburbs of ChurrOj on the N.W. -slope
of the Alcazaba; Mauror^ the district of the water-carriers, on the
W. slope of the Monte Mauror; and Anteqiuruela ('little Ante-
quera'), at the S. foot of the same hill, so named because occupied
by refugees from Antequera (p. 328). The last quarters of the city
to be settled were those on the plain to the S. aiid W, , which soon
extended to the Puerta de Elvira (p. 345) and gradually came to be
the most important part of all. The gradual expansion of Granada,
which is said to have contained half-a-milixon inhabitants at its
conquest, is perspicuously shown on the plan published by Rafael
Contreras (1872). Under Spanish rule the city soon began to de-
cline. The decrees of the 'Catholic Kings' depopulated it rapidly, and
the ravages of the Inquisition were nowhere more violent.
It is with more or less justice that the modern Granada has been
described as a 'living ruin'. A few of the chief streets are furbished
up to a certain extent for the eyes of the visitor from foreign parts;
but the side-streets are full of fllth and decay, and some of the
more remote are not even lighted at night. The local aristocracy
prefers to spend its rents in Madrid. A large proportion of the
population subsists by begging alone. It is still questionable whether
the hoped-for results will ensue from the opening of several large
beetroot-sugar manufactories and the improvement of the mining
industry in the Sierra Nevada. When all is said, however, Granada
still remains as the culminating point of a journey in 3paiu , not
only for its magnificent views of the great snow-dad mountains to
the SJS. but also for the glimpse it affords of the past, the remains
it has to present of a strange and exotic culture and art.
HUtory. On the fall of the caliphate of Cordova in 1031 (see p. 3C8),
^dvi ibn Zfri, the viceroy of Granada made himself independent and
Bi^Ufy, ORANADA. ^9. Bxmte. 335
fouMtod. the dynM«7 of th» Ar«<«. Bddh, the third of tiw> line, exlesded
liie MihoritT over M al»ga. Kino 'AbdattaA ibn BcUofvSn wm defeated by
ihe Cid (p. 36) at Gabra in 1060, and in 1090 be loat bia throne to the
Aim9rMwi4u. wbo were in tarn «upplanted by the Almokadu is 1149
(eoap. p. 809). With the decline of the Almohad power after the battle
of Laa Kavas da Toloaa (1212 •, p. a02) new revolts took place among the
-viceroye ol the Tarione proTiacea. From among theae Ibn S4d^ of the
Arab lamUy of the Uni MUd, and Mv/immmed An Y4s%/ itm etl-Ahmar, of
th« iiibe of the Btni Natr^ aoon emotged aa the most powerful and dia-
puted with each other for the poaaeaaion of Andalnaia. On the aasaaaination
of Ibn Hdd at Almeria (1238) Al-Ahmar eatabliahed an ezt^Ukve kingdom,
which lBolad«d Cta'anada, Malaga, and Almevia. He fixed hia capital at
Jaen. After fit. Ferdinand had conqujared Cordova (1236), he puahed
forward to the capture of Jaen (1346), while at the. same time the Ara-
tfoaeae deaeended on the B. ooast of Andalusia. Al-Abmar therefore
deamed it prndent to make peace with the Castiliana, acknowledged
Feodiaand aa hia auaerain, and even lent him hia aid In the conquest of
Seville (p. 815).
The DfoUif of |A« Jfa»ridM»y thus established by Al-Ahmar (Mo-
hamnmd /.;, maaaged to maintain itself at Oranada for nearly 250 years,
partly by the sword and partly by skilful tackiag between the contending
parties and by treaties now with Casttle and now with Morocco. Mo-
hammed I. offered a refage in Granada to the Moors expelled from Cor-
dova, Valencia, Jaen, and Seville; he foatered trade and industry, and
constructed fortiflcations, roada, and aqueducts. His successors followed
iA his footsteps, eapecially Mohammed II. (1272-1800), Ab^Cl-WaVid Imam
(1809-26), rtbw/ /., sumamed AbuU-JBacUdcU (succeeded 1333; murdered at
the Alhambra by a madman in 1354), and Mohammed V. (1854-91). To these
prudent and far-seeing princes of Granada is mainly due tli^ brilliancy
of the Moorish civilisation in Spain : — the highly developed character of
its agriculture and commerce, its encouragement of science, its perfection
of architecture and artistte deooratioci thai eclipsed even that of the old
caliphate of Cordova, Granada became the wealthiest city in the peninsula ;
and its court was frequented by the most eminent Arabic poets and bisto-
riaos of the period, aueb aa Mohammed ibn al-KhaiH Ibn Khmld^n^ and the
great gtographer Ibn Bal4ta.
As in most Moorish states , the downfall of Granada was occasioned
by internal factions. After the middle of the 15th cent, the most prominent
noble families of the land were the ZeyH and the Bmi S^rrddJ^ the latter
well-known to legend as the Abmeerrage*. King Abu Nasr Sa'd tried to
curb the overwhelming power of the Abencerragea by compassing the
death of their head 8e<d m*uf; but in consequence of this he himself lost
his throne in 1462 to his son MnUy AbnUHatan (d. 1486), who disinte-
grated tttt kiUfdom by resigning Malaga to his brother Et-S^al (^the
strong'), afterwards Mohammed XII, Abu'l-Hasans arst wife 'Aisha saw
her influence with her husband weakened by the charms of a young
Spanish slave, lidbel de Sotfa, who embraced Islam under the name of
Zorayah (^morning-star") and became the king's favourite wife. 'Aisha
also feared that the right of succession and even the lives of her sons,
Mohammed Abu 'Abdallah CBodbdif) and YHtnf^ might be endangered.
The Zegris supported the king in ttiis matter, but the Abencerragea
sympathized with 'Aisha, and some of them seem to have paid for their
sympathy with their lives. The 'Catholic Kings', Ferdinand and Isabella,
utilized these internal dissensions lo further the great aim of their lives
— the expulsion of the last Moor from Spanish soil. While Abu'l-Hasan
was trying to win back the town of Alh am a (p. 830), which the Christians
had captured in 1483, the story goes that 'Aisba lowered herself and her
sons from a window of the Torre de Comares (p. 368) and fled with them,
first to the Albaicin and then to Guadix (p. 299), where Boabdil CBl Eey
Ghico') was at once proclaimed king. After a violent struggle Boabdu
succeeded in dethroning his father, who retired to Malaga. The capture
of Boabdil by the Spaniards at Lucena (p. 807) in 1483, however, com-
pletely revolationiaed the situation. He submitted to a restrictive treaty
336 Rmde39, GRANADA. Mweo Ptavineial.
and remained Beatral while Ferdinand advaneed to the siege of Malaca.
In tiine, however, Boahdirs religious and patriotic feelings again gained the
ascendancy over his desire for revenge and personal power, and in 1^6 he
resigned Granada to his uncle Ee-Zagdl^ who had succeeded Abu'^l-Hasan
a9 the last heroic leader of the Ifoors , and contented himself with the
possession of Loja (p. 390). In a defence of this place, however, he again
fell into the hands of Ferdinand and, pledging himself onoe more to neu-
tralitv, be retamed to Oranada, which Ea-Zagal had qnitted to go to the
relief of Malaga. On the fall of Malaga, Baza, and Almeria (Ez>Zagal's
last reftige) the Spaniards required Boabdil to fulfil his com]pact and
evacuate Granada. Conscious too late of his mistake, he rallied him-
self for one desperate and unavailing effort against the Spanish power,
but he was forced to make a treaty of peace in 1191 and abandoned
Granada before the entry of the ^Catholic Kings' (Jan. 2nd, 1492). The
unheroic end of Boabdirs story has been enshrined in legend. As he was
crossing the Sierra Kevada, he turned on the spot now called ^El Ultimo
Suspiro del Moro' for a last look at the fair city he had lost. Tears filled
his eyes as he gazed, and his stem and resolute mother 'Aisha taunted
him wiih the words : *Weep not like a woman for what you could not
defend like a man.' — The taking of Granada was a subject of great
rejocing throughout Christendom, and a speoial Te Devm was sung at
St. Paul's , London, by order of Henry VII.
There was crying in Granada when the sun was going down ;
Some calling on the Trinity — some calling on Ifahoun.
Here parsed away ihe Koran — there in the Cross was borne —
And here was heard the Christian bell — and there the Moorif^h horn !
{LockharVs 'Spanish Ballads').
The Arms of Granada include a pomegranate (granada)^ stalked and
proper. The supporters are the pillars of Hercules; ihe motto ia plus ultra.
a. The City of Granada.
Tlie business-centre of Granada is the Pubbta Eeal (Pi. E, 5),
a square named after a former gate. The Varro flows through a
vaulted channel below it. To the S, it is prolonged by the Carrera
de Oenil, whence the Alameda leads to the Genii -(^comp. p. 347),
The narrow Calle de los Mesonea (PI. E, 6) leads to the N. feom the
Puerta Real to the N.W. quarters of the inner town and to the rail-
way-station. — The short Calle de los Reyes Cat61icos runs to the
N.E. from the Puerta Real to the Plaza db Pbim (Pl, E, 6), with
the new Casa de AyuntamUnto, in which the Museo FroTuieial has
been housed since 1889.
The collections, which are sadly neglected an4 exhibited in unsuitable
room.'', include a few Prehutoric AntiquitieSy Objectt found in Jliberfs (p. 331 ;
Roman amphorse, tear-vessels, coins), a Mooriih Fountain^ two golden
Moorish BraceUity Arcib Carpets (Arab, 'al-khomra'), and Moorish Jmcrip-
Horn, — The collection of pictures affords a good opportnnity for becoming
acquainted with Juan Sanchez Cotdn (1561 16^, who retired to the convent
of Paular (p. 122) on finishing his studies at Toledo under Bias del Prado
and afterwards settled at Granada. Ribera^ Zurharan^ AUmso Cano.Bocaneffra.,
Felipe Odmez de Valencia^ Juan de SevillOy Pedro de Moi/a, and ether old
masters are also represented hrre. The most notable of the modern pictures
are those by M. Qdmes Moreno (Departure of the Moors from Granada,
St. Juan dePios bearing the i^ick from a burning houre, etc.)- The great
treasure of the museum is, however, a Triptyeh^ with enamels in the
Limoges style of scenes from the Passion, in six sections. This fine work,
believed to have been made in Venice, is said to have been presented by
'El Gran Capitan* (p. 847) to Isabella the Catholic. The original frame
is lacking.
C 11 I t* d r a i :
2 Capiila df^^an MigoJti
\ Ai iit t - ife Jp'SfLr J\i 'azaj^rio
G i'Vjyy HI IS Ut Sun la Ana
7 ■ San SidaMi-cin
& - San Cecilio
B " " Sa^t^ft T^f-estt.
10 • Jr.Tii'^di' (afolmnna
.rfjf del Carman
1+ Tofya V Sa in rapiUilar
Ca:pilla. RcclI :
IT HetuMjo
^b^.i.K^V^'Wm.pmiF^li'mbta^Mfti^
Caikedral. GRANADA. 39. Route. 337
From the PUza de Prim tlie Calle del Principe leads to tlie
N.W. to the Plaza db Bxbabbambla (PI. £, 5), so named after the
Moorish gate of Btb ar-Ramla^ which opened on the *rambla' of the
now vaulted-over Darro and was taken down in 1873. The gate
was also long known as the ^erta de las OrejaSy because at a festa
held in 1621 in honour of Philip IV. the 'Rateros* utilized the fall
of one of the platforms here to cut oflf the ears (orejas) of many
Udles for the sake of their golden earrings. The Bibarrambla was the
favourite spot of both Moorish and Christian pageants, tournaments,
and bull-flghts, and bloody encounters often took place in it be-
tween the adherents of the Zegris and the Abencerrages (p. 335).
The plaza has, however, entirely lost its Moorish character. On its
E. side stands the Pataeio Arzobispal (PI. E, 6), dating mainly from
the 18th cent, and probably owing its chief interest to its associa-
tion with the short-sighted criticism of Gil Bias. On the W. side
stood the Miradorta, a handsome building erected about Jl 540 from
a design by Piego de Siloe for the spectators of the festivals, and
burned down in 1879. — To the N. of the Bibarrambla lies the
Plaza de Capuchinas (PI. D, E, 5), with the Mercado. To the N.E.
is the small Plazuela de las Pasiegas, in front of the cathedral.
The ♦Cathedral (PI. D, E, 4, 5; adm., see p. 333), the im-
posing memorial of the conquest of S. Spain , was begun in the
Gothic style, from the designs of Enrique de Egos (p. 38), on
Mar. 25th, 1523, under the name of 8anta Maria de la Encarruicidn,
The Alhambra mosque (p. 336), the Iglesla Mayor (p. 347), and the
chief mosque of the new town (the present Sagrario, p. 340) had
all previously been found unsuitable for the purposes of a cathedral.
In 1525 the cathedral chapter, for some unknown reason, transferred
the superintendence of the building to Diego de Siloe (d. 1563),
who carried it on in the plateresque style. The church, still in a
very incomplete condition, was consecrated on Aug. 17th, 1561.
The lowest, Doric stage of the N. Towbb (PI. 14) was built before
1568 by Siloe's pupil and successor Juan de Maeda. The second and
third stories, in the Ionic and Corinthian styles, were added by
Ambrosio de Vico between 1568 and 1589. He also built an octagonal
stage at the top, but that had soon to be removed as unsafe, so that
the tower is now only 185 ft. high Instead of the contemplated
height of 265 ft. The S. tower was never built. The massive W.
Fa9Adb was erected after 1667 by Alcmso Cano (1601-67) and JosS
OranadoSy with wide deviations from the plan of Siloe. The interior
was not completed till 1703. The cathedral of Granada is on the
whole the best Renaissance building in Spain, and Mr. Fergusson
considers that in respect of its plan it is one of the finest churches
in Europe.
The rich sculptures and paintings of the cathedral are due
principally to Alonso Cano, who fled from Valladolid to Granada
when accused of the murder of his wife. At Granada he was
Babdxkxs*0 Spain. 22
338 Rwte39. GRANADA. Cathedral.
appointed a 'racionero* (prebendary) of the cathedral and doTOted
sixteen years of aeryice to the church - fabric in his still extant
'obrador* on the first floor of the N. tower. The sculptures are made
of marble from the quarries of Maeael, in the Sierra de los Filabres
(p. 298), which were exploited by the Romans and ha^e furnished
material for many of G-ranada^s buildings.
Above the Puebta Pbimcipal is a large relief of the Incarnation, by
Josi Risueiio (1717). The Annunciation and Assumption, above the side-doori,
are by the French sculptors, AUcJul and LwU Verdiguier (1782). — The
Puebta de San JEsdNiMo, the first K. door in the Calle de la C^rcel Bajs,
is adorned with sculptures by Silot^ Maeda (penitent St. Jerome), and
other artists. — The most handsome and elaborate of all the entrances
is the *PusBTA DEL PABDdM, in the N. transept, the lower part of the
decoration of which, completed in 1637, is also by Siloe. — The Puebta
DSL GoLEGio, on the E. side of the ambulatory, is a work of Sancho del
Cerro (1590), but includes an Ecce Homo by Siloe^
The plan of the Inte&iob, which is 380 ft. in length and 220 ft.
in breadth, is similar to that of the earlier Gothic cathedrals. It
shows a nsve with double aisles, flanked with rows of chapels, a
coro encroaching on the nave, a transept, a lofty capilla mayor, and
an ambulatory. The vaulting, 100 ft. in height, is borne by massive
piers formed of four Corinthian pilasters placed back to back. The
decoration is mainly in white and gold, and the handsome marble
pavement (1775) harmonizes with the general scheme.
The **Capilla Mayoe, 148 ft. long and 155 ft. high, opens
off the nave by a magnificent Arco Total and is covered by a beauti-
ful groined roof borne by Corinthian columns. Against these columns
are colossal statues of the Apostles, in bronze-gilt, by Martin de
Aranda (1614) and other masters. Farther up are paintings by
Bocanegra and other pupils of Alonso Cano, and above these are
seven fine paintings by Alonso Cano himself, representing scenes
from the life of the Virgin (Annunciation , Conception , Nativity,
Presentation in the Temple, Visitation, Purification, and Assump-
tion). The stained-glass windows, with scenes from the Passion,
are by the Dutchman Theodor de Holanda (ca, 1650) ; the stained
glass of the dome is by Juan del Campo (15d1). On the piers to the
right and left of the entrance to the chapel are colossal *Heads of
Adam and Eve, carved in oak by Alonso Cano. Below are kneeling
figures of the 'Catholic Kings', by Pedro de Mena and Medrano (1677).
The marble high-altar has a modem tabernacle in the form of a
small temple. The side-altars are adorned with pictures by Bocane-
gra (Scourging of Christ, St. Basil giving St. Benedict the rules of
his order) and Juan de SeviUa (Martyrdom of St. Cecilia, Virgin
appearing to St. Bernard).
The Choib contains unimportant stalls of the 16th cent and
two organs by Leonardo Ddvila (1749). Alonso Cano and Mariana
Pineda (p. 345) are buried here. The trascoro is adorned with
rich rococo decoration of 1741 and four alabaster statues of bishops
by AguHin Vera, Above the altar is a mosaic of the Temptation
CothtdnU. (^KANADA. 39. Route. 389
of St. Antony. An inscription on the wall informs ns that this
was the site of the tower of the Moorish mosqne, destroyed in 1588.
A visitation of the Latebal Chafbls, many of which are very
dark, is most conveniently begun at the end of the right aisle.
The CapiUa de San Miguel (PI. 2), magnificently decorated in
1807 by Juan Manuel Moscoso, the wealthy Archbp. of Granada,
contains a marble relief of St. Michael and the Dragon, by Adan^
and ♦La Virgen de la Soledad (Mater Dolorosa), a copy by Alonso
Cano of a celebrated statne by Qcupar Beeerra.
Between Chapels 2 and 3 is a fine wooden door, leading to the
SagraHo (p. 340).
Over the high-altar of the Capilla de la Trinidad (PI. 3) is a
Holy Trinity, by A. Cano. To the left is a painting by Pedro de
Moya (Virgin and Child appearing to a bishop), above which is a
Holy Family by an unknown master.
The •Paintings at the AUar of Jesd* Nazareno (PI. 4) are ad-
mirable. The 8t. Franeia is by Dom. Theotocopuliy the Holy Child
with St. Antony, the Martyrdom of St. Lawrence, and the Magdalen
(damaged) are by Bibera. Above is a fine Bearing of the Cross (^Calle
de la Amarguxa') by A. Cano. The St. Paul is a copy of Ribera.
Beyond this altar is the handsome Portal of the Royal Chapel
(p. 340), partly by Enrique de Egos (p. 337). The inscription is 'Laudent
eum opera ejus'. Farther on is the Altar de Santiago (PI. 6), with
statues of St. James (Santiago) by Alonso de Mena (1640), St. Cecilia
by Josi Moray and St. Gregory by Dte^o Mora. Above the St.
James is a small picture of the Virgen de loa Perdonei, given by Pope
Innocent YIU. to Isabella the Catholic. On the conquest of Granada
the first mass in the Alhambra mosque was said before this picture,
and a commemorative mass is still said before it every Jan. 2nd.
From the first chapel of the ambulatory a handsome portal, con-
structed by Siloe in 1534 and adorned with a relief of the Virgin
and Child and fine busts of the Apostles, leads into the Ante-
Sacfietia^ which contains a Holy Family by Juan de Sevilla and
an Annunciation to the Shepherds by Ltaridro Bcusano. — In the
SAC&isTr itself (18th cent.) are a crucifix by Montanis (p. 396),
a large painting of the Annunciation by A. Cano^ the Conception
(sculpture) by the same, and a Custodia, 5 ft. high, presented by
Isabella the Catholic for use in the procession of Corpus Ohristl.
The Oratory, in the corner of the sacristy, contains another Con-
ception and a small wood-carving of the Virgin and Child, by Cano.
The CapiUa de Santa Ana (PI. 6) contains a painted wooden
group of St. Anna, Joachim, and the Virgin (16th cent.), and two
pictures by Atanaaio Bocanegra. Below this chapel is a cistern
(aljibeh). — The Cap. de San Sebastidn (PI. 7) has a Scene of
Martyrdom by Juan de SevUkij and the Cap. de San Cecilio (PL 8)
has some indifferent sculptures -by M. Verdiguier. — The Cap. de
Santa Teresa (PL 9), with two early works of Juan de Sevilla, and
22*
340 B(mUS9. GRANADA. CapiOa Real.
the Cap. de JefHt de la Colunma (PI. 10), with a St. Rosalia by
Jo»i Risutnoy are also of little interest. — The CapiUa de Nuuiira
8mora de la AnUgua (PI. 11), the last in the ambulatory, contains
a large altar by Pedro Duque (1718), portraits of Ferdinand and
Isabella by Frame, Alor^o Arguello(i6Ad% and a highly reyered image
of the Virgin (15th cent.), said to have been found between Ayila
and SegOYJa and to have shared in the campaign against Granada.
The Cap. de Nueatra 8enora del Carmen (PI. 12), the second in
the N. aisle, contains a head of St. Paul, carved in oak by A» Cano.
In the Cap. de la Virgen del PUar (PI. 13) are the tomb of Archbp.
BienvenidoMonz6n (d. 1885) and a relief of the Virgin and St. James
by Juan Adan,
Over the portal of the 8ala Capitular (PI. 14) is La Caridad,
a group long ascribed to Pietro TorHgiani but probably a work of
Juan de Maeda.
Adjoining the cathedral on the S., and having the wall of the
S. aisle as its N. wall, is the Sagrario or Santa MaHa delaO, built
by Francisco Hurtado Jtquierdo in 1705-59 and used as a parish-
church. It occupies the exact site of the principal mosque of Granada,
a structure with eleven aisles, resembling the mosque of Cordova
in its arrangement and used as a Christian church down to 1661
almost without change. The Sagrario may be entered by the main
portal in the Plazuela de las Pasiegas (p. 337), or from the cathe-
dral by the Puerta Interior del Sagrario, or from the Capilla Real
(see below). It contains a fine Renaissance font by Frandseo
Florentin and Martin Milanes (1522) and a St. Joseph by Juan de
Sevilla (after A. Cano).
The Capilla de Pulgar (PI. 15), in the K.W. corner of the Sagrario,
marks the scene of the brave deed of Hern^ P^rez del Pulgar (d. 1531),
who entered Granada by the conduit of the Darro on the night of Dec.
18th, 1490, and with his dagger pinned a scroll bearing the words 'Ave
Maria' to the door of the mosque (comp. p. 391). The gallant knight
regained the Christian camp in safety.
The ^Capilla Real also lies to the S. of the cathedral, with
which it communicates by the door mentioned at p. 339. It was
erected in the late-Gothic style in 1506-17 by E^ique de Egos
for the ^Catholic Kings* and was afterwards enlarged by Charles V.,
who found it Hoo small for so great glory'. Besides the tombs of
Ferdinand and Isabella, it also contains those of Philip the Hand-
some and Johanna 4a Loca', the parents of Charles V. A magni-
ficent iron Reja^ by BaxtolonU of Jaen (1523), separates the burial
chapel proper from the rest of the building. In front of us as we
enter are the **Royal Monuments. (PI. 16), made of marble and
executed in the style of the Italian Renaissance. That of Ferdinand
and Isabella, to the right, by Domenico Fancelli (p. 48) of Florence,
is the finer of the two. The king wears the order of St. George,
the queen the cross of Santiago. To the left is the monument of
^hillp of Austria, wearing the Golden Fleece, and the Infanta
CasaddCabildo, GRANADA. d9. JBou(«. 341
Johanna (' Juana la Loca*), 1)y Bartolomi Ordones. Both tombs are
adorned with charming stataettes, reliefs, etc
Between the two monumeats is the entrance to the Bubial Vault,
containing the iron-bound leaden coffins of the *Seyes\ bearing no oma>
mentation except initials surmounted by crowns. We descend a few
steps into the dark 'bovtda*. To the right and left, in the middle, lie
luibata and Ferdinand. Beside the latter lies PhUip , beside Isabella are
Johmma and the Jnfanf Michael. The cofAns haye never been opened.
Philip^s coffin is the one that his demented wife used to carry about
with her.
The large *Betablo (PI. 17) is by Philip Vigami (d. 1643).
The kneeling statuettes of Ferdinand and Isabella are said to be
faithful likenesses of the ^Reyes Gat61icos'. The Woodtn ReliefSy
each in two sections, are of great historical interest. To the left is
depicted Boabdil surrendering the key of the Alhambra to Card.
Mendoza (p. 353), in the presence of Ferdinand and Isabella. The
relief to the right represents the Baptism of the reluctant Moors hy
Spanish monks. The ornate Relicarios (PI. 18), or side-altars, by
Aloruo de Mena (1632), are never opened except on high festivals.
They contain relics and paintings presented to the cathedral by the
^Gatholio Kings', including some valuable works by JIan» MtmUng,
The Sacustt (PI. 19) of the Gapilla Beal contains kneeling figures of
Ferdinand and Isabella (of unknown origin) and a glass-case with the sword
of Ferdinand and the sceptre, crown, and mirror of Isabella. Here also
are some finely embroidered vestments (eatuUat)^ including one worked
by Isabella; a standard embroidered by Isabella and hoisted over con-
quered Qranada; and a missal of Isabella, by Francisco Florez, with
SU) pages and 30 illustrations, which is laid on the high-altar on Jan. 2nd.
Visitors are also advised to ascend the K. Toweb (p. 38 .and peram-
bulate the roof for the sake of the view. The entrance is by a small
door immediately to the left of the main portal of the cathedral.
The picturesque Placbta de la Lonja (PI. E, 4) affords a good
view of the rich late-Gothic exterior of the Capilla Real and of its
8. Portaly by Juan Qarc^a cU Pradaa, which was partly modernized
in the 18th century. The latter is adorned with plateresque orna-
mentation and statues of the Virgin, St. John the Evangelist, and
John the Baptist. — At right angles to the Capilla Real and with
its back to the Sagrario (p. 340) stands the Lonja, built by J. 0.
de Pradaa in 1518-22 and also possessing a handsome plateresque
portal. — In the angle between the chapel and the Lonja stood the
Fountain of the Moorish mosque.
On the S. side of the Placeta de la Lonja, opposite the Royal
Sepulchral Chapel, rises the Casa del Cabildo Anti^pia, originally
the seat of the Moorish university founded by Yiisuf I. to take the
place of those lost at Cordova and Seville. Afterwards it became
the residence of the 'Catholic Kings', whose initials (F andY), along
with a pomegranate (granada)j were freely scattered over the build-
ing in an 18th cent, restoration. From 1500 to 1851 the Casa del
Cabildo was used as the town-hall, hut now it has sunk to be a
warehouse for textile goods. Most of the Moorish inscriptions and
ornamentation of the interior have heen covered with whitewash.
342 Route 39. GRANADA. Audiencia,
The 8ala de CahUdos has a fine wooden ceiling ; and another hand-
some room, with a dome, has lately been restored. The cornices,
window-firames, and gilt-mounted doors are all interesting.
To the S. of the Gasa delGabildo lies the Alcaicerfa, a little used
market-hall erected on the site of a Moorish bazaar (al-Kaisarijah),
whicii was bnmed down in 1843. Farther on is the ZacaUn (PI. E,
4, 6; from adkkdtin, 'the rope-makers'), a narrow thoroughfare,
closed to wheeled vehicles but much frequented by foot-passengers,
especially in the evening. The trade and traf&e are, however, rapidly
shifting to the OAiiLB de Mendbz Nunez, a new street running
parallel with the Zacatin on the S. over the covered-in bed of the
Barro. It connects the Plaza de Prim (p. 336) with the Plaza Nueva.
A little to the S. of the Calle de Hendez Xunez, and reached by the
short Calle de la Paerta del Garbdn, stands the Casa del Carbon, built
at the beginning of the 14th cent, as the granary of Granada. It is also
known as the Alhdndiga^ from the Arabic 'al-funduk' (warehouse). The
picturesque door with its horseshoe arch, the stalactite vaulting, and the
other scanty relies of the Moorish period are all very dilapidated and
much blackened by the coal-dust of the Carboneros.
The Zacatin and Calle de Mendez Nufiez end to the £. at the
Plaza Nueva (PI. E, 4), another square under which the Darro
flows. Above us, to the E., rises the Alhambra (p. 349), which is
most easily reached from this point by the Galle de Gom^res. To
the N.E. stands the Audiencia fPl. E, 4), originally the CkancilUria,
a Renaissance structure of 1531-87, with a facade in the style of
Herrera. The arcaded patio, in the middle of which rises a fountain,
was probably constructed by Diego de Siloe (p. 337). Among the
features of interest are the arms of Charles Y. , the staircase, the
wooden doors with medallions, and the curious way in which the
hinges of the entrance-door are inserted in a stone below and in a,
corbel above.
Above the Plaza Nueva the Darro is not covered in. On its
left bank lies the church of Santa Ana (PI. £, 3), a Renaissance
building, perhaps by Diego de Siloe, erected about 1541 on the site
of the mosque of Almanzora. It has a handsome portal and a beau-
tiful wooden roof, and contains a painting by Atanasio Bocanegra
and a fine figure of the Mater Dolorosa by Jose Mora (1671). The
tower, built by Juan Cctstellar in 1561-63, resembles a Moorish
minaret, with its round-arched vdndows, its azulejos, and its pro-
jecting, corbel-borne roof.
The Cabebea de Dabeo (PI. E, 3, 2), on the right bank of the
stream, is one of the oldest parts of Granada and affords many pic-
turesque views, particularly of the walls and towers of the Alhambra.
The Puente del Cadi (Arab. Kantarat al-Kddi), over which passed
the oldest road to the Alhambra, was built in the 11th cent,, and
the remains of one of its horseshoe arches are still visible on the
left bank. At No. 37 in the Carrera de Darro, now occupied by
poor families, is the Banuelo, a Moorish bath , dating , perhaps,
from the 11th century. The large basin, with alcoves for resting,
Saero MonU. GRANADA. 39. Route. 343
and other bathing-rooms are still extant, together with traces of
Moorish ornamentation.
Farther on, on the right side of the street, in the 'Angosturas',
Ilea the ehnrch of San Pedro y San Pablo (PI. E, 2, 3), with a fine
wooden ceiling. On the other side of the river is the precipice
below the N.E. angle of the Alcazaba (see p. 354), and beneath this
are the arches of the Canal deSan Pedro. To the N. of the chnroh lies
the Ca$a de CastrUj a curions Renaissance stracture, with an elab-
orate plateresqne portal, probably bnilt by a pupil of Diego de Siloe.
The side-8tre«ts running hence to the 17. lead to the small church of
San Juan de loa Beyes (PI. D, 2), erected in the Gothic style by Rodriffo
Semdndez abont 1620. The well-preserved *Tower is the minaret of the
Hoorish mosque of Aiaibinf but the belfry-stage was added by the Christ-
ians. — In Iwl, during the eonstmctlon of the Bedemptorist convent of
Son Al/onto Maria de Ligorio. some remains of an old Roman street were
laid bare near San Juan. — From San Juan to San Nicolas^ see p. 344.
The Garrera de Darro is continued by the Axameda db Darro
(PI. £, 2), the al'Oharsa ('plantation') of the Moors, a beautiful
avenue of elms. To the right, above us, is the Generalife (p. 367) j
to the left is the Albaicin (p. 344). At the beginning of the Cuesta
del Ohapiz (see below) stood the Puerta de OuadiXj the old N.E.
gate of the city. The bridge here leads across to the Barraneo de
Fuente Pena (PI. E, 2), where an inscription records the restoration
of the Alhambra in 1833. Farther up is the Cuesta del Ret Chico
(PI. F, 2), which ascends through the cactus-clad gorge mentioned
at p. 349 to the Puerta de Hierro (p. 366), the E. gate of the Al-
hambra, and to the Oeneralife (p. 367).
A pictoresque but shadeless footpath leads from the bridge up the left
bank of the Darro to C/i M.) the Fuente del Avellano (beyond PI. E, 1),
the *hazel-nut spring' which Chateaubriand compared with the fountain
of Vaueluse. The Uoors ealled it ^Ain ad-da^moy or the 'Spring of Tears\
probably from the alow way in which it rises out of the clayey soil.
The Cuesta del Chapiz (PI. E, D, 2) ascends from the Darro
towards the N. to the old suburb of Albaida. The street is named
from the Casa del ChapiSy a mansion erected in the 16th cent, in
the Mud^jar style for two wealthy Moriscoes. It possesses two sepa-
rate patios, and is now occupied by several poor families.
The Camino del Sac&o Monte (PI. D, 2, 1), diverging to the
E. opposite the Casa del Chapiz, was once of great importance as
the road to Guadix (p. 299). It is lined with numerous Cave Dwell-
ings (Cuevasjj occupied mainly by gipsies but also sheltering a
good number of ^Castellana Gente'.
The Gipsies or Oitanoe (i.e. Egipcianos)^ whose dialect (cold) has many
peculiarities (comp. p. 389), are known to have been settled at Oranada
since 1582. Those who wish to investigate their cave - dwellings and
customs should apply to their 'King\ either directly or through a guide.
They can then have their fortunes told or see a gipsy dance, a performance
more notable for its expense than for its interest. As the gipsies are most
persistent and importanate beggars, it is well to be supplied with abundance
of small coin and patience.
The footpath ends at (li/4 M.) the Saero Monte (to the N.E. 0^
346 Bouuas. GRANADA. 8anJer6fiimo.
other saints, ita paintings by Pmlomino^ and its rich marble ornamentation,
is very effective. — The chief sight of the Cartnja is, however, the
*Sacki8tt, built by Luis de Arivdlo in 1727-64. It is entered by a hand-
some door, aad its walls are encrusted with the most costly varieties of
marble. It contains some celebrated cedar«wood Cdmodat (cabinets), in-
laid by Joti Vazquez (1730-64) with ivory, mother-of-pearl, and silver.
The Garden (ffuerta) of the Gartuja, now in private hands, hardly
repays a visit. In the midst of it stands the large new bnilding of the
JfQwieiado de la ComptMim de JesiU.
To the right, in the Calls db San Juan db Dios (PL G, 4, 5),
which leads to the S.W. from the Campo del Triunfo, lies the
Hoapital de San Juan de Dios (PI. G, 5), founded in 1552. It
takes its name from Juan de Dios or de RohleSj a Portuguese who
lived in Granada from 1536 till his death in 1550, zealously engaged
in the establishment of hospitals for the sick and for foundlings.
He also founded the order of the Brothers of Mercy or Hospitallers
(Orden de los Hospitalariot), which was sanctioned by Pope Pius Y.
in 1572. He was canonized in 1690. Over the entrance is a kne^ng
statue of San Juan de Dios by Jose Mora, The artesonado ceiling in
the W. angle of the first court should be noticed. The Ghusch, built
in 1737-59 in the most florid baroque style, contains altar-pieces
and frescoes hy Sdnehez Sarabia^ Carlo Maratta^ Conrado OietquirUOj
Tomds Ferrer, and other artists. In the sacristy are pictures by Ata-
nasio Bocantgra; in the Gamarin are the relics of the saint and
paintings by Vargas and Sarabia. Visitors are also shown the cage
(jaulaj in which the saint was at one time confined, when his zeal
was mistaken for insanity.
The second side-street to the right beyond the Hospital leads to
the convent of San JeT6nimo (PI. G, 5), founded by the 'Gatholic
Kings' in 1492. Since the French invasion of 1810 it has been used
as cavalry barracks. It includes two beautiful patios, the outermost
of which has several charming portals by Diego de Siloe, The
Ghurch, also in part by Siloe but now defaced by paint, is the
burial-place of the 'Great Captain' (open 7-8.30 a.m., at other times
for a fee ; visitors ring at the main entrance).
Above the main entrance is the coat-of-arms of Oonsalvo de Cordoba
(p. 309), with the inscription : Qonealo Ferdinando a Corduba magno SiS'
panorum dud, Qallorum ac Turcarum Terrori. Beneath the superb capilla
mayor, a creation of Siloe, is the tomb of the hero and his widow Maria
Manrique. The inscription ends with the words : gloria minitne eontepulta.
The tomb was formerly surrounded by 7(X) captured banners. At the elab-
orate hieh- altar, executed by Juan de Aragdn^ Ldzaro de Velasco, and
others (1570 et seq.)) are kneeling "^Figures of the ^Great Captain^ and his
wife. At the ends of the transepts are statues, in full armour, of hiB four
Compafieros. — The fourth chapel in the left aisle contains a fine group
of the Entombment, ascribed to Becerra ( Pietro Torrigicmif). — The coro,
containing elaborate stalls by SHoe^ is at the N.W. end of the church.
To the S.E. of San Jer6nimo, in the Galle de la Duquesn, stands
the University (PI. D, 6), founded in 1531 and transferred to the
present building, the Colegio de la Compania de JesiQs, in 1769. It
Is now attended by only about 600 students, and possesses a Library
Sanio Domingo. GRANADA. 39. Route, 347
of 25,000to18. and a few good Pictures by Jnan de Sevilla, Luca
Giordano, Pereda, Conrado Giaquinto, and other artists. It is ad-
joined by a Botanical Garden, — Farther to the S., in the Oalle de
Gracia, nearly opposite the church of Santa Maria Magdalena (PI. E,
5), is the house (No. 12) in -which Eugenia de Guzmdn y Porto-
earrero, the widow of Napoleon III., was born in 1826 (tablet). —
The Calle de los Mesones, the S.E. prolongation of the above-men-
tioned Galle de laDuquesa, brings us back to the Puerta Real (p. 336).
The shady square in front of the H6tel Alameda (p. 382), at the
S.E. comer of the Oabbbka de Gbnil (Pi. E, F, 5), occupies the
site of the Piterta Bibaiaubin, an important Moorish gate, destroyed
by the French in 1810. The old Castillo db Bibataijbzn (PI. P, 6),
erected by the ^Catholic Kings' on the site of some of the Moorish
fortifications, was largely destroyed in 1718, while in 1752-64 it
was replaced by the present barracks. The S.E. tower, the lower
part of which is of Moorish origin, recalls the Puerta de los Siete
Suelos (p. 366). The Moorish wall extended in a wide sweep from
this point to the Torres Bermejas (p. 352). — The Plaza de Mariana
(formerly the CampiUo), behind the Bibataubin, contains the Teairo
Principal (p. 332) and a marble statue of Mariana Pineda (p. 345),
by Miguel Marin (1870).
The Galle de San Matias, beginning opposite this statue, leads
to the N.E. to the Capitania General (PI. E, 4), which occupies the
site of the old Iglesia Mayor (p. 337) and of a Franciscan convent,
and to the Convenio de Carmelitas Deicalza^^ originally founded in
1582 in the house where the 'Great Captain' (p. 346) died on
Dec. 2nd, 1515. — A few yards to the S.E. lies the Casa db los
TiBos (PI. E, 4), with a tower resembling that of a Moorish alcazar,
and now belonging to the Marquis de Campotejar (Count Pallavicini),
It contains a handsome room called the Ouadra Dorada and a col-
lection of antiquities, including the sword of Boabdil (?) and por-
traits of the *Great Captain' and the 'Catholic Kings.' The tickets
for the Generalife are issued here (p. 367).
A little to the S.E. of the buildings just mentioned lies the
Plaza db Santo Domingo (PI. F, 4), with the Church of Santo Do-
mingoy a tasteful structure of the 16-17th cent., and the Convento
de Santa Cruz, now a military school. — Not far off are the Teatro
de Isabel la Catdlica (p. 332) and the magnificent villa of *Cnarto
Beal de Santo Domingo, to which, however, it is difficult to obtain
admission. This villa was the Al~Madjarra of the Moors and takes its
present name from a tower (formerly Nonsard) of the 13th cent., with
a Moorish gateway. A large room in the villa contains fine mosaics,
inscriptions from the Koran , and other decorations of an earlier
date than those of the Alhambra. The gardens also, with their bowers
and hedges of laurel and myrtle, date from the Moorish period.
348 Soute39. GRANADA. Alanuda.
The Caeaia de Santa Catalina, a ateep footpath, aacends from the
Plaza de Santo bumingo to the E. to the Campo da lot Mdrtires (p. 366).
We now return to the Campillo (p. 347) and enter tbe 'Alameda
(PL F, G, 6), the favourite winter-promenade of Granada, shaded
by fine plane-trees. To the left lie the Castillo de Bibataubin
(p. 347) and the BondiUa^ formerly the haunt of gamblers and
sharpers (piccuroa) and well known from its description by Cervantes.
To the right stands Nuestka Senoba de las Angustias (PL F,
G, 5), a church with two towers, built in 1664-71, by Juan Luis
Ortega. It contains statues of the Saviour, the Virgin, and the
Twelve Apostles by Pedro Duque Comedo (ca. 1715). Behind the
high-altar is a rich Camariny completed in 1742 for 'La Patrona de
Granada', a much-revered image of the Virgin, that is borne in a
procession to the cathedral on Easter Monday. The attractive fres-
coes- in the sacristy (scenes from the life of the Virgin) are by an
unknown master. — At the point where the Alameda joins the
Sal6n (see below) rises a Bronze Monument by Mariano Benlliure
(1892), representing Isabella the Catholic agreeing to the proposals
of Columbus at Santa F^ (p. 331).
Opposite this monument, to the right, is the small Plaeeta del Humil-
ladero (PI. G, 5), whence the Puente de Oenil^ dating originally from the
12th cent., leads across to the PasAo del Viol6» (PI. G, 5 6). At the W.
end of this paseo is the small Ermita de San Sebattidn (PI. G, 6), oriein-
ally a Moorish chapel, where, as recorded by an inscription of the ISth
cent., Ferdinand the Catholic received Boabdil on his departure from
Granada. — A little farther on, on the border of the vega, is the inter-
esting Alcizar de Genii, built under Ydsuf I. (1333-54) as a palace for the
Moorish queens and now the property of the Dttque de Oor. The most
notable feature of the interior, which has been partly restored, is a small
room with Cafic inscriptions and Moorish ornamentation. In the vicinity
is a large pond, said to have been used by the Moors for naumachise or
naval sham-fLghts. Adjacent are the remains of a building for the spectators.
From the S. end of the Alameda the magnificent *Fa8eo del
Sal6n (PI. G, 5, 4) leads to the left (E.). It is planted with fine
elms and commands a superb view, now somewhat interrupted by
factory-buildings. Above us are the Torres Bermejas (p. 362) and
the Villa Los Martires (p. 366). To the right, beyond the Genii, is
the Convento de San Basilio (PI. G, 5), which was founded in 1614
and has been used since 1860 as the CoUgio de las Escuelas Bias ;
it is embedded among fine cypresses. To the S.£. rises the noble
array of the Sierra Nevada, which retains its mantle of snow till
midsummer. The Picacho de la Veleta is the only peak rising above
the general uniformity of the ridge. The broad summit in front is
the limestone Domajo ('trough* or 'milk-paiV), which is adjoined
lower down by the miocene formations ending in the valley of the
Genii. On the last lie La Zubia and several farms.
The continuation of the Salon is named the Paseo della Bomba
(PI. G, H, 4). Both promenades are enlivened by several fountains,
drawing their somewhat turbid water from the Acequia Oorda,
which leaves the Genii 5 M. higher up. The largest is the Fuente
de la Bomba (PL H, 4).
SUuaUon. ALHAMBRA. 39. Route. 349
Beyond the PuenU Verde (PI. H, 4), on a hill rising from the left bank
of the stream, is the former Ermita de San Awtdn el Viejo^ affording a
wide Tiew. — From the Puente Verde and from the Paente de (3^enil
(p. 348) roads lead to the S. to the Tillage of Buetor, to the Ultimo Buepiro
del Mora (p. 336), and on to Lanfaton and MoirU (British (Consular Agent;
p. 3128). From the road to Hnetor there soon diverges to the left the Ca-
nUno de los Jfeveros, the route followed hy the muleteers who bring the
snow of the Sierra into the city in summer (oomp. p. 868).
We may now ascend to the N.E., past the Bomba ^11, to a number
of Cave Dwellings, hidden among thickets of cactne, and on to the
Campo de loa Mdrtires (p. 366). Near the mill lay the PueHa de los
Molinos (PI. G, H, 3), the Btbanexde of the Moors, through which
the Christian army entered the city on Jan. 2nd, 1492. It was de-
stroyed in 1838. — Or we may turn to the S.E. and cross a range of
hills to the Eedueio de los Franceses (PI. G, H, 2), a redoubt made
by the French at the beginning of the century, beyond which we reach
the broad road between the Alhambra and the Cemetery (p. 368).
b.' The Alhambra.
L* Alhambra! TAlhambra! palais que lea genies
Out dor^ comme un rdve et rempli d'harmonies;
Foiteresse auz cr^neaux festonnds et croulans,
Oil Ton entend la nuit de magiques syllabes
Quaiid la lune, k travers lea mille arceaux arabes,
S^me lea murs de trifles blancs! (Victor Hugo.)
The Alhambra occupies the plateau of the Monte de la Assabica,
which, as already indicated At p. 333, stretches from E. to W., is
bounded on the N. by the Barro, and on the S. is separated by the
VaUe de la Aesabica from the Monte Mauror, with the Campo de los
Martires (p. 366) and the Torres Bermejas (p. 352). Its main axis is
cut across near its middle by a second ravine, the Cktesta del Bey Chico
(p. 343), which isolates the Alhambra hill on the £. from the Cerro
del Sol (p. 333), at the base of which lies the Generalife (p. 367).
The plateau has a length of about 800 yds. and a breadth of about
200 yds., and is thus about the same size as that of the Castle of
Sagunto (p. 250), like which it seems intended by nature as the ffite
of a fortress. The whole of this plateau was surrounded by a mas-
sire wall, strengthened with numerous towers. The strongly marked
and narrow promontory at the W. end bears the Alecudba, or citadel.
This is separated from the Alhambra proper, the Palace of the Sultans,
by a small glacis named the Plaza de los Aljibes. This, again, is ad-
Joined on the S.£. by the Alhambra Alto, with the quarters of the
courtiers and officials. This threefold division is apparent in many
other establishments of the middle ages. Thus the commanderies
of the Teutonic Order in Prussia consisted of a strong 'Hochschloss'
or citadel, a 'Mittelschloss*, occupied by the commander, and a
^Yorburg', for the less important members of the post. The Moors
named' the entire space within the circuit of the wall Medinatal-
hamrA. or the *Eed Town', from the colour of the stone used in its
350 BouU39. ALHAMBRA. HiHofy.
bnlldings. The soil consists of a mixture of clay and marl, permeated
with oxide of iron, to which the scientific name otAlhambra Conglom-
erate has been assigned.
The eariy History of the Alhambra is shrouded in obscurity.
Arab historians assert that Sauwdr, the Wall (viceroy) of the Caliph
of Cordova, constzncted fortifications on the site of the present Al-
cazaba about l^e year 889, while engaged in a struggle with the
rebellious Arabs of Elvira. In 1144 the Berbers entrenched them-
selves here when they rebelled against the Almoravides (p. 335).
In 1162 the Alcazaba formed the last refuge of Ibn MardatUah of
Valencia , who , in league with the Christians and the Jews of
Granada, wrested the possession of the city from the Almohades
(p. 335) for a short time, but was ultimately overpowered by the
troops of 'Abd el-Miimln. The Albaicin was the royal seat of the
dynasty of the Zirites (comp. p. 336), but Mohammed J, (d. 1272),
the first of the Nasrides, selected the Alcazaba of the Alhambra as
his residence. He was the originator of the motto * Wala ghaliba
iU Allah' ('there is no conqueror but God'), which is so conspicuous,
along with the ^phu ultra' of Charles Y., among the inscriptions of
the Alhambra. Mohammed 11. (1272-1302) continued his father's
work, and Mohammed III, (1302-9) built the Alhambra Mosque
(p. 366). Abu:i'Wa:iXd Itma'U (1309-25) was the first to erect a
small palace beyond the Alcazaba, but YHsufl, (1333-64) tore the
whole of this down with the exception of the Patio del Mexuar
(p. 362). Yi^suf began the building of the Palace of Comares or of
the Court of the Myrtles ; he completed the Torre de Comares and
the baths, and seems also to have constructed the enclosing wall
round the entire hill, with its 23 towers. Mohammed V, (1364-91)
has the glory of building the finest parts of the whole structure, In-
cluding the Court of the Myrtles, the Cuarto de Machuca to the N.W.,
and the Court of the Lions. The decoration of the Tower of the In-
fantas, exhibiting the first traces of the decline of Moorish art, dates
from the reign of Mohammed VII. (1392-1408). No other addition
was made to the Alhambra during the 15th cent. ; the kings of that
period were content to keep in preservation what already existed.
After the surrender of Granada to the Christians, the palace and
the Alcazaba became the private property of the 'Catholic Kings\
while the less important buildings were presented to the most pro-
minent actors in the successful campaign. Granada became the
favourite residence of Ferdinand and Isabella, and they took the
liveliest interest in the buildings of the Alhambra. At their instance
the Count de Tendilla, the first Captain-General of the city and
Alcaide of the Alhambra, had the whole of the internal decorations
restored by expert workmen, while he also strengthened all the
parts of the walls and towers that required it. The upshot of Char-
les V.'s visit to Granada (1526) was less happy. In spite of the
fact that he knew well how to appreciate the marvels of Moorish
mtkfry. ALHAMBRA. 39. RouU. 351
Art, M evldenoed by liis exolamation ^^degffraeiado de el que tal per-
dio* (^unhappy he who lost all this'), he nevertheless decided to
erect within the Alhambra enclosure a new palace, adapted more
expressly to the requirements of a later age. To make room for this
were sacrificed the chambers on the S. side of the Court of the Myr-
tles, the Zaguan of the Palace of the Court of the Lions, the Rauda
(p. 360), and the greater part of the Cuarto de Machuca, then
occupied by his architect Machuca and as a stonemason's yard. The
Sala de los Moc&rabes (p. 359) and the Court of the Lions were
injured by a powder-explosion in 1591, but the damage was repaired
as well as might be. The period of total neglect and decay of the
famous Moorish palace began in 1718, when Philip V. deprived the
Marques de Mondtfjar, the descendant of Count Tendilla and hered-
itary Alcaide of the Alhambra, of his office, and converted to his
own use the revenues assigned for the preservation of the building.
In 1812 the evacuating French troops decided to blow up the
^fortress' of the Alhambra. The towers between the Gate of Justice
(p. 353) and the water-tower had already been destroyed, when the
main part of the palace was saved from annihilation by the presence
of mind of a Spanish soldier, who secretly cut the fuse. The Al-
hambra then became a place of refuge for all sorts of homeless
vagrants ; the water-basin in the Court of the Myrtles was used down
to 1833 as a ^lavadero' for washerwomen. The first attempts at
purification were made by Joai Contrerw (d. 1847) in 1828, and in
1830 Ferdinand VII. granted a yearly subvention of 50,000 reales
(5002.) for the restoration of the Moorish palace. This was the begin-
ning of the extensive restorations that have since been carried on by
Jos^ Contreras, his son Rafael (d. 1890), and his grandson MaHamo :
— restorations that have at any rate prevented the farther decay
of the building, if not in themselves always in the best of taste.
The earthquake of 1884 did little damage to the Alhambra, and the
effects of the carelessly-caused fire of Sept. 15th, 1890, were prac*
tically confined to the vaulting of the Sala de la Barca (p. 358).
It is hardly necessary to remind our readers of Wa$hmgtw* Irving"'*
delightful 'Tales of the Alhambra", which were partly written on the spot
(comp, p. 345). The visitors" book containing Irving s autograph is still
shown by the custodian of the Alhambra Palace. A series of magnificent
yiews of the Alhambra is given in the monumental work of Jul$$ Oourjf
and Owen Jane*^ published at London in 1842 ('Plans, Elevations, Sections,
and Details of the Alhambra, from drawings taken on the spot'). The
^ Court of the Alhambra", constructed . by Mr. Owen Jones at the Crystal
Palace, Sydenham, gives an excellent idea of the decoration of the Al-
hambra; and in the small handbook describing it he gives the gist of the
text of his large work.
The shortest way to the Alhambra is the Calle de Gomeres
(Pl^ E, 4, 3), which ascends steeply between the heights of the Al-
cazaba and the Tones Bermejas and ends at the Puerta de \%%
Granadas, the main entiancc to the Alhambia Park.
352 BouteSO. ALHAMBRA. Park,
The Pa«rta de las OraaadM (PI. 1 ; E, 3), erected by Pedro
Maehuea (p. 364), on the site of the Moorish Bib AlanjcWj is a
somewhat heavy building in the form of a triumphal arch, with
Tuscan columns and the arms of Charles Y . At the top are three
open pomegranates (p. 336). It stands near the middle of the wall,
now for the most part removed, which united the Alcazaba (p. 354)
with the ToBBSS Be&mbjas, on the Monte Mauror, The latter, now a
military prison, were erected by the Moors, perhaps at the same
time as the Alcazaba, and restored in the 13th and 16th centuries.
The *ToBBX8 Bebmkjas (PI. P, 8; 'Vermilion Towerg*) should be
visited on the way back from the Alhambra or Oeneralife for the sake
of the picturesqae view they command. The path to them diverges from
the Cuesta de las Oruces (see below), a little to the B. of the Puerta de
las Oranadas. Visitors are admitted on application to the sentinel. The
extensive hoildings, including large cisterns, undei^ound stables, and
casemates for 2(X) men, give an excellent insight Into the Moorish art of
fortification. A steep staircase ascends to the platform (atot4a) of the
chief tower, whence the best view is enjoyed. — The Pumrta del Sol or
Bib J£ctttr6r^ removed in 1867, lay below the Torres Bermejas, to the S.W.
At the foot of the hill, at the Cruz de Mondijar^ some Koman graves were
discovered in 1829 and 1867.
The Alhambra Park {Alameda de la Alhambra; PI. F, 3, 2),
a *sacred grove' of a unique character, occupies the floor and slopes
of the Assabica valley (p. 349). Its trees are almost exclusively
elms, brought by the Duke of Wellington from England in 1812 ;
and they are kept fresh and green by the waters of the DarrOy con-
ducted to the park by the Acequia de la Alhambra ot del Bey, which
diverges from the river at the secularized convent of Jestu del ValU,
5 M. above Granada. The murmuring sound of running water is
heard here all day long. The thickly-planted trees, the home of
innumerable nightingales, stand like lofty columns of living green
and form an impenetrable roof of foliage, through the topmost twigs
of which the storm-winds often pipe and whistle while below all
is calm and still. In early spring, and especially In March, when
the rays of the sun can pierce the leafless boughs of the elms, the
ground is covered with a luxuriant carpet of verdure, which dis-
appears as summer advances.
In the Valley of Assabica lay the J/alr&ara, or burial-place of the
Moorish kings, where Mohammed I. and most of the other Kasrides were
interred. Boabdil was permitted by Ferdinand and Isabella to transfer
their remains to Mondiijar, in the valleys of the Alpujarras.
Three avenues begin at the Puerta de las Granadas. To the
right is the Cubsta de las Cbucbs, which ascends slowly along the
S. verge of the park to the Alhambra Hotels (p. 332). To the left
is the somewhat trying Guesta Empedrada , the oldest approach to
the palace, which ends at the Puerta Judiciaria (p. 353). In the
middle is the easy gradient of the Main Avenue , constructed in
1831, which leads past the Fuente de la Palma (PI. 2; F, 3), the
Fuente de lot Tres Pieot (PI. 3 ; F, 2), and the Fuente del Tomate
(PI. 4 ; F, 2), to the Alhambra Hotels , while it is also connected
vith the Puerta Judiciaria by side -roads diverging to the left.
Putrta Judiciaria. ALHAMBRA. 3.9. Boutt, 353
Walkers , making their first visit to the Alhamhra , may follow the
main ayenue to the second fountain and then turn to the left The
only entrance for carriages is the Puerta del Carril (PI. 6; F, 2),
which was constructed during the erection of Charles Y.'s palace.
In the Gaefta Empedrada, to the left, a little below the Puerta Ju-
diciaria, is the Filar de Carloe duinto, also known as the Filar del
Marquis de Mondijary after its constructor, ^the second Alcaide under
Charles Y. The tasteful Renaispanoe fountain was erected by Pedro
Machuca (p. 364) in 1545 abd restored in 1624; it is adorned with the
motto of Charles V. Cplut ouUre") and with heads carved by Alonto de
Menu to typify the three rivers of Granada: the Darro, the Oenil, and the
Beiro. The water of the fountain supplies the quarters Of Gom^res and
Churra (p. 334), which lie immediately below it. The Pilar , the 'Round
■ Tower' (to the left), and the entrance tower of the Alhambra (above) unite
to form a very imposing group.
The *Faerta Judiciaria (PI. 5; E, F, 3), a tower-gateway
erected according to the inscription by Yusuf I. in 1348 and called
by the Moors the Bth Kharea or *Qate of the Law\ deserves partic-
ular attention. Like many of the other towers of the Alhambra,
it is practically a building by itself, with two gates (an inner and
an outer), connected by a passage purposely made as tortuous as
possible to facilitate its defence. It is 67 ft. in height and 48 ft. in
width. About half of its eleyation is occupied by the horseshoe-
shaped Outer Oate, above which is carved a hand with outstretched
fingers, a symbol ficequently used both in the Orient and in S. Europe
to avert the evil eye. Above the Inner Archway is figured a key,
the symbol of power. A current superstition asserted that the
Moorish kingdom of Granada would defy all attacks until the hand
on the outer gate grasped this key. A wooden figure of the Virgin
was added at the inner gate after the conquest. The massive wooden
doors are shod with iron and strengthened with *pasadoTe8' ; the
old iron lock is very large and heavy.
In the inner passage-way of the $;ate Is an Altar , erected in 1588 for
the use of the guards. On the wall is faatened a marble tablet bearing a
long Spanish Inscription^ originally in the Plaza de los Aliibes (p. 854),
which relates the circumstances attending the surrender of Granada: 'Los
muy altos catdlicos y muy poderosos Sefiores Don Fernando y-Dona Isabel,
Rey y Reyna, nuestros Senores, conquistaron por fuerza de armas este
reino y ciudald de Granada: la cual despues de haber tenido S. A. en
persona sitiada mucho tiempo, el rey moro Muley-Hacen les entregd con
su Alhambra y otras fuerzas i dos dias de Enero de mil cuatrocientos
Doventa y dos- Este mismo dia 68. AA. pusieron en ella por su Alcaide
y Capitan 6. Don Inigo Lopez de Mendoza, Conde de Tendllla, su vasallo^
al cual, partiendo 88. A A. de aqui, dejaron en la dicha Alhambra con
quinientos caballos e mil peones ; y a los moros mandaron 88. AA. quedar
en sua casas en la ciudad y sus alcarrias, como primero estaban. Este
dicho Conde por mandamiento de 88. AA. hizo hazer este aJjibe.'*
From the Puerta Judiciaria a narrow walled path ascends to the
(right) HotLse of Mariano Contreras (PI. 7; E, 3), the 'Conservador
de la Alhambra'. Incorporated with the N. wing of this building is
the *Pnerta del Vino, so named from the wine stored here in the
16th century. This gate probably formed the main "W. entrance
of the Alhamhra Alia (p. 349). A wall, of which remains were
Baedeker's Spain. 23
354 BouU39. ALHAMBRA. AUatab^i,
reeentiy found in the 8. pari of the palace of Oharleg Y. (p. 364),
teems to have connected the Pnerta del Yino with the Paerta de
Hierro (PI. 22; p. 366) and to separated the AleaEaba, the Royal
Palace, and the Principal Mosqne (^p. 366) from the more plebeian
part of the Alhambra settlement.
A key i§ scalptared above tbe Wine Gate alM>, The inscriptioii over
the key celebratea the ruler of Granada under the general and freqnently
recarrinc title of Abu *Abdallah Algani bil-lah. It begina with the words :
'I flee to God for shelter from Satan, the pelted with atones* — an allnaion
to the legend in the Koran that Abraham pat the devil to flight by
throwing atones.
At the top of the hill lies the wide Plaza de i/>8 Aijibss
(PI. 8; E, 3), named from the Cittern (aljihe, Arab, al^jibh), situ-
ated to the N., below the terrace, and constmcted, accoiding to
the inscription on the Gate of the Law, by Count Tendilla at the
command of the ^Catholic Kings'. The cistern, which is 100 ft. long,
20 ft. wide, and 26 ft. high, is filled with filtered water from the
Darro. The inside is shown to visitors only on certain fixed days
in January. The level of the plaza, which was originally named
the Plaza del Pahlofj was raised about 16 ft. in consequence of the
construction of Charles Y.'s palace. It is now adorned with beauti-
ful hedges of myrtle. On the E. side stand the Moorish Palace
(p. 355) and the externally more imposing Palace of the Christian
Emperor (p. 364). To the W. (left) is the great facade of the
Alcazaba, with the Torre Quehrada (PI. 10; E, 3) and the Torre
del Homenaje (PL 11 ; 85 ft. high). To the N. we look down into
the depths of the Darro valley.
The Alcaz&ba (PI. E, 3), formerly better known as the Alhizan
(Arab. oL-kataba^ the citadel: aZ-ftim, the fortress), lies about 450 ft.
above the Plaza Nueva (p. 342). Except on the £• side, the face
of the hill is very steep; at the N.E. corner it is so sheer as to make
the foundations of the fortress-walls appear very precarious (p. 355).
Its only entrance now Is the Pueria de la Alcazaba (PI. 9; E, 3),
in the S.W. angle of the Plaza de los Aljibes. In former days,
however , it could also be entered directly from the Darro side by
the Paerta de las Armas (PI. 12; E, 3) on the N.W. (comp. p. 343).
The whole inside of the castle is now occupied by garden-beds.
Almost the only remains of the original building are the dilapidated
enclosing walls, with their massive towers, and the so-called Adarves^
or ramparts on the outside. The structure of the walls recalls at
many points the concrete work of the Romans.
At the W. extremity of the Alcazaba , above the Plaza de la
Ariilleria (PI. 14; E, 3), stands the *Torre de la Vela (PI. 13;
E, 3), the Moorish Ohafarj a * watch-tower' 85 ft. high, on which
the three ^pendones' of the 'Catholic Kings' were displayed for the
first time at 8 p.m. on Jan. 2ud, 1492. From the platform at the
top rises a turret (La Espadana) , struck by lightning in 1881 but
'' restored , which contains the Campana la Vela , a huge bell,
Moorish Palace, ALHAMBRA. 39, Route, 355
cast in 1773 and weighing nearly 12 tons. During the night, from
2*/2 hrs. after the *Oracion' until daybreak , this bell is rang every
5 min. to regulate the opening and shutting of the irrigation chan-
nels in the vega (comp. p. 331).
The ♦ViBW from the Torre de la Vela is very extensi-re. At our feet
lies the entire city of Granada. To the left, beyond the Alhambra Park,
rise the Torres Bermejas; to the right, beyond the Darro, is the Al-
baicin. In front of us extends the green and almost exactly circular vega,
enclosed by brown and sun- burnt ranges of hills. To the 8.E. is the
Sierra Nnada^ where the D9m<njo^ Teteroy TrOenque. and other peaks rise
conspicuously. To the S. and S.W. are the Sierra de Almijara, the Sierra
Tejea^ and the Sierra de Alhamaj with the peak of Monte Vivet in front.
To the W. are Santa Fi (p. 831) and the. mountains of Loja (p. 330).
To the H.W., and more distant, are the SUrra de Parapanda (p. 980) and
the Bim^a de Colomera or de Moclin^ with the 'Cortadura* to the left,
above the three isolated peaks of the Sierra de Elvira. To the N. rises
the Sierra de Jarana. In the foreground to the E. are the Alhambra
Palaoe, the Palace of Charles V., the church of Santa Maria (p. 865), the
Franciscan Convent (p. 365), the Generalife (p. 367), and the Silla del
Horo (p. 368), on the Ceiro del Sol.
The *Jabdin de lob Adabves (PL 16} E, 3), laid out on the
S. teixace, a lomantic spot with venerable ivy, climbing vines, and
other plants growing on trellises, affords views of the park, the
city, the vega, and mountains, which are more picturesque though
less extensive than that from the Torre de Vela. It is entered by
a small door to the left of the Puerta de la Alcazaba, recognized
by the iron scallop-shells on it.
The Moorish **Palace of the Alhambra (adm., see p. 333;
comp. the accompanying ground-plan), now national property and
generally known as the Casa RecUy abuts on the N.E. angle of the
Plaza de los Aljibes (p. 354). Its exterior, like that of all Arab
buildings, is very unimposing, and it is, moreover, thrown entirely
into the shade by the immense palace of Charles Y. (p. 364). The
low-lying modern entrance (Entrada Moderna), to the left of the
emperor's palace, is also very unpretentious.
In buildiug the Alhambra great difficulty was caused by the
configuration of the ground, which slopes rapidly from the Al-
cazaba towards the E. and from the imperial palace towards the
N. Even the circuit wall of the hill, against which the palace abuts,
stands at this point, not on the margin of the plateau, but on the
slope just below. Thus considerable substructions were necessary
to secure uniformity of level for the Cuarto de Machuca (p. 3631,
the Court of the Myrtles (p. 357), and the Court of the Lions (p. 359),
the three main parts of the edifice. The other parts of the palace
have been adapted to the configuration of the site. We have to
descend a few steps to reach the Patio del Mexuar, while the baths,
the Patio de la Reja, and the Patio de Daraxa are in the basement.
Since the building of the Alhambra, as indicated at p. 350, was
spread over at least a century, the structure naturally reflects thr
political and social development of the country. The original buil('
23*
356 RouU39. ALHAMBRA. Moorish
lugs to the N., of which the group round the Mexuar Court are alone
extant, corresponded to the limited demands of a small state and
a small court. The growing power of Granada was reflected in the
proud dignity of the Palace of Comares and the Court of the Myrtles
— official buildings that could not fail to dazzle the entering visitor.
Here the ruler lived in state and received foreign ambassadors ;
here all important state assemblies were held. The Cuarto de
Machupa, to the N.W., probably shared with the Generalife (p.* 3673
the position of summer-residence of the royal family , while the
luxurious Court of the Lions, to the S.E., was the winter-palace of
the court and the harem of the king. The large and pompous features
of the Court of the Myrtles become in the Court of the Lions small,
elegant, and full of sensuous beauty. In the one case a large pond
occupies nearly the whole of the court j in the other the eye is
charmed by the play of interlacing jets of water. The whole char-
acter of the decoration is playful and rich to excess.
The Arab house, like the house of classical antiquity, is
simple and reserved on the outside; its rooms all open on an
internal court. The building was enlarged by the multiplication
of courts and rooms. The kings of Granada thus built a series of
palaces, each with a separate entrance and a court of its own. The
Cuarto de Machuca, the Mexuar (p. 362), and the Patio del Mexuar
were entered, according to the travellers Mdrmol (1526) and Nava-
gero (p. 26), by a zaguan (fore- court) to the N. of the modern
entrance. The Court of the Myrtles was reached by steps ascending
from the Mexuar Court, while the doorway of the Palace of the Court
of the Lions was in the corner between Charles V.'s palace and the
cistern and thus to the S. of the present entrance.
In the Mosque of Cordova (p. 309) we see the art of the Moors still
within the sphere of ancient traditions and at the same time under
the influence of Byzantium. The buildings of Seville (such as the
Giralda and the old facade of the Alcazar, pp. 400, 398) belong to
a second period, which shows the first attempts to create an
independent art of their own. These attempts attained perfection
and completion in the Alhambra. In this third stage of development
the genius of the Moors has produced the utmost that it was capable
of. Its creations stimulate us all the more because they offer an
utter contrast to the Christian outlook and to the civilisation of the
Occident. Their constructive value is small j the material, chiefly
wood and plaster, is by no means solid and is frequently employed
with illusive intent ; the laws of architectonics seem often to exist
for the architect only that he may evade or deride them. This
Moorish palace comes to us like the resuscitation and artistic glor-
ification of a far-distant past ; the tent of the nomad Arab celebrates
a late resurrection in its halls. The thin and fragile marble columns,
on which rest large and apparently heavy masses of masonry, are
an imitation of the tent-poles ; the brilliant colours of the *arabesque'
Palace, ALHAMBRA. 39. Rovie. 357
oTnamentation is an echo of the gay patterns of the Oriental carpets
witb wbich the tent-interiors were draped. The strange ^stalactite*
or * honeycomb' vaulting of the domes alone seems like a new and
Independent invention, in which the step-like arrangement of the
numerous members, one ranged above another without visible sup-
port, seems due rather to the careAil calculation of the mathema^-
cian than to the fertile fancy of the artist.
The fancy of the Moorish workman runs riot in the restless
play of the lines of the arabesques, a curious blending of geometrical
figures and severely conventional foliage, which appear at once to
combine, to intersect, and to avoid each other in their endless and
ever-new convolutions. The plastic reproduction of living creatures
is not only forbidden by the Koran but is foreign to the Arab
nature. This is the explanation of the lack of sculpture and the
absence of any intellectual stimulus connected with the plastic art.
An indifferent substitute for sculpture is afforded by the use Of in-
scriptions, mainly in the venerable Cuflc character, as borders for
enclosed wall-spaces. These inscriptions are generally either of a
religious nature or consist of verses of hyperbolic poetry, principally
from the C<uida of Aben Ztmric^ a eulogy of King Mohammed Y.
The first impression of the visitor to the Alhambra is seldom
free from a touch of disappointment. It is therefore desirable to
remember how much has been destroyed or indifferently restored.
One must try to revive in imagination the original colouring of the
plaster walls, the patterns of which charmed at close view by the
complexity of their design and at a distance by their shimmering
harmony of tint and tone. We must picture the waterless fountains
as playing briskly, the empty rooms, 'half chamber and half grotto\
as gay with decoration, brilliantly illuminated, and enlivened by
picturesque groups of visitors, like those in the ceiling-paintings
of the Sala de la Justicia (p. 360). We must not fail to advance
to the open windows and gaze upon the world without, that har-
monizes 80 marvellously with the scene within. Here, where fantasy
rules supreme, we must look around us through her eyes. — In the
following description we begin with the magnificent structures of
the Courts of the Myrtles and of the Lions, then return to the Patio
del Mexuar, and end our round with the baths, the modern rooms
adjoining the Patio deDaraxa, the 'Toilette Room of the Queen', and
other underground chambers. A hurried visitor can walk through all
these rooms in an hour ^ many will find that weeks are not enough.
The *Coart of the Myrtles (Patio de la Alberca or de loa
Arrayanet) derives its name from the pool of water (alberca^ Arab.
birkeh) enclosed by hedges of myrtle (meraa de arrayanes). It is the
central point of the Palacio de Gomares (p. 356); at its N.E. end
rises the great fortified tower (p. 358), while to the S.W. it is over-
looked by the palace of Charles V., which lies about 16 ft. abov
360 Route 39. ALHAMBRA. MckCHriBH
with a roof of rich banrel-Taulting In the Renaissance style l>y Slaa
d€ Ledeama (1614), but there are still some remains of the oiri^uial
dome. The mural decorations, in red, blue, and gold, wejre long^
concealed by a coat of whitewash, removed in 1868.
The *Hall of the Abencerrsges, to the S.W. of the Court of
the Lions, takes its name from the noble family of the Abeneerrtzs^as,
which figures so prominently in the later history of the Moorish
kingdom of Granada (comp. p. 335). The story goes that BoAlxiil
incurred the enmity of the Whole tribe by beheading its principal
members in this room on account of an intrigue of their chief Ham et
with Queen Morayma (comp. p. 368). We enter the rectangular
hall by beautiful wooden doors, restored in 1856 and hung on pivots
let into the marble floor below and into a soffit of the cross-beam
above. The central part of the hall rises in three stages. To the
right and left are exquisite stalactite arches leading to two alcoves,
occupying the entire width of the hall and roofed with Gharmiog
honeycomb vaulting. The second stage consists of an open gallery
with eight small stalactite cupolas, so arranged as to convert the
uppermost story into a sixteen-sided space, softly lighted by sixteen
windows. Above these windows is a large stalactite celling, enhan-
cing the fantastic impression of the whole structure. The ornamenta-
tion, partly restored in the 16th cent., is of extraordinary grace and
delicacy. The middle of the room is occupied by a dodecagonal
Fountainy the reddish-brown stains on the marble of which are
popularly supposed to be the blood of the Abencerrages. The water,
like that of the fountain in the Room of the Two Sisters (p. 361),
flows off through small channels to the Fountain of the Lions.
The Patinillo and the Aljihe (cistern), adjoining the Hall of the Aben-
cerrages, like the Women't Apartments in the upper story of the Court of
the Lions, are seldom shown. — A passage adjoining the cistern led to
the remains of the Binda or Royal Sepulchral Chapel (closed). This build-
ing, apparently erected by Mohammed V., consisted of an ante-room and
three chambers with the tombs of Mohammed II. , Ahu^l-Waltd IsmaHl^
T&wf /. , and TUtuf III The alabaster tombstones (loeas) were dis-
covered in 1574 (comp. p. 3S1). Another passage connected the chapel
• with the upper floor of the Palace of the Court of the Lions.
The *Sala de la Justioia or 8ala del Tribunal^ more correctiy
termed the Sola de los Reyes, to the S.E., is one of the most interesting
apartments adjoining the Lion Court. The usual name rests on the
groundless assumption that the sultans dispensed justice here. The
hall is divided into seven sections, adjoined by seven alcoves or
divans, some of which are quite dark. It is connected with the
Court of the Lions by three archways, each divided by two columns.
The three sections opposite the archways are surmounted by lofty
cupolas, with rows of windows. Between lie two lower rooms, while
at each end is a dusky alcove. With its honeycomb vaulting and
stalactite arches, the hall resembles a fantastic grotto. It has been
repeatedly restored, and during the building of the church of Santa
Maria (p. 365) it served as a Christian chapel.
Palace, ALfTAMBRA. 39. Ro\de. 361
The three lateral recesses corresponding to the three domed
chambers display some very interesting Pictures, painted in al-
buminons colours on leather nailed to the wooilen ceilings, which
'are made of the peralejo or white poplar of Granada. Those in the
central alcove are painted on a golden background, the others on
dark-blue sprinkled with golden stars. The contours are yery
sharply defined, while the flat surfaces are generally filled in
with one colour only. At a later period the pictures recelYed a
coating of linseed-oil. They show many points of resemblance to
Italian paintings of the 14th cent., especially in the costumes.
The ten bearded Moslems in the painting of the central alcove are
probably portraits of the rulers of Granada from Mohammed I. to
Abu Sa'ld, Hhe Red' (d. 1362). According to other authorities they
represent a Moorish council (mexuar). The other two paintings,
with scenes of the chase and of chivalry, are, perhaps, merely of
decorative intention.
In the central alcove now stands a Moorish Water Trough (pila; Ko. 4),
lonff preserved at the foot of the Torre de Vela (p. 364) and adorned with
cnrioos reliefs of eagles, lions devouring stags, and the like. The in-
scription (1306) refers to Kohammed III. To judge from the styUstio
similarity of its reliefs to those of the water-trough in the National
Kasenm at Madrid, we h&ye here probably to do with a copy of an earlier
work. — In the alcove at the S.W. end of the hall are five Slabs of Ala-
boitor (Nos. 1-3, 17, 18) from the royal tombs of the lUnda (p. 360).
A narrow passage (paiodizo) on the N.E. side of the Lion Court,
opposite the Hall of the Abencerrages, ascends to the —
**Boom of the Two Siiters (Sola de las Dos Hermanas), which
forms a beautiful perspective with the 8ala de los Ajimeees and the
Mirador de Daraxa (p. 362), two other rooms situated at a little
higher level but in the same axis.
This suite of rooms seems to have formed the winter residence
of the Sultana and the royal family. The main room, ascribed to
Aben Cencid (p. 359), takes its name from two large and equal-sized
slabs of white marble (losas) forming part of the pavement. The
decoration of the Alhambra probably reaches its artistic zenith in
this room. The wooden doors are of exquisite delicacy. Round
the walls runs a dado of the finest azulejos (alieatados). The great
glory of the room is, however, the honeycomb vaulting, the largest
of all Arab roofs of the kind, containing, it is alleged, no fewer than
5000 cells, each differing from the others and yet all combining to
form one whole of indescribable symmetry and beauty.
*The walls are broken by niches flanked with graceful columns. At
every corner stalactite pendants and fantastic cell-formations hang from
the roof, converting the square hall into a polygon. Above this soars
the dome, formed of innumerable tiny and multiform cells, looking as if
the architect had been helped in his work by a swarm of bees. One cell
breaks into the other, climbs over its head , and is in its turn used as
the frame-work by which a third mounts still higher. And these countless
bells and domelets are not content to soar upwards in a simple pyram-
idal form, but are diverted by a frolicsome fancy into detours of the
boldest kind. The roof doubles back on itself, follows the bisarre hu
362 Route 39, ALHAMBRA. MooHsh
uouM of its creator, and forms large vaults out of the combination of
smaller, till at last tbe apex Is attained. The walls are adorned with
eqnal plctnresqueness and fantasy. The lower part is covered with dados
gay with the involved convolutions of red, green, and IHue asnlejos.
Above these are brilliant embroideries on a ground of plaster lace-work.*
In one corner of the room is the famous two-handled *Alhambra
Vase (^el jarro de la Alhambra'), which an ancient tradition avers to
have been found in the palace filled with gold. From the 17th cent,
until recently it stood in the Jardin de los Adarves (p. 355). It is
4 ft. 4 in. in height, dates from 1320, and is exquisitely enamelled
in white, blue, and gold. The animals figured on it are apparently
meant for gazelles. There Is a similar vase in ithe National Museum
at Madrid (p. 88).
The 8ala de lo$ Ajimeeea has two Sijimeces' (N.E.) and a fine
ceiling. To the left is a modern passage, leading to the Pelnador
de la Reina (p. 364) and the Patio de la Reja (p. 364). In front of
us is the entrance to the so-called —
*Mirador de Baraza, a charming little chamber with three
tall windows reaching down almost to the floor, the wooden jalou-
sies (celosian) of which were adorned with coloured crystals. They
formerly looked out on the inner garden of the palace, but they now
give on the attractive Patio de Daraxa (p. 363). Opposite is the
Pelnador cle la Reina (p. 364). The name Daraxa, meaning *vestl-
bule', has been unaccountably metamorphosed Into Lindaraja; and
thus Washington Irving (comp. p. 351) was led to speculate about
an imaginary Moorish beauty, Liodaraxa.
An inscription in the room runs: Un these rooms so much magni-
ficence presents itself to the gazer, that the eye is taken captive and the
mind confused. — Light and colour are so distributed here, that you may
look upon them at the same time as one and yet as different'.
We now return through the Court of the Lions to the Court of the
Myrtles and descend on its N.W. side, as indicated at p. 358, through
the Zaguan to the Patio del Mexuar, which lies 13 ft. below the
level of the large court. This, the oldest part of the Alhambra,
generally but groundlessly named the Patio de la Mezquita,, consists
of small and unadorned chambers, which' yet possess a stylistic
charm of their own. On its N.E. side is a well-proportioned Atrium^
the columns of which have capitals of considerable interest. The
horseshoe arch above dates from 1522. Beyond this lies the Cuario
Dorado, the Mud^jar ornamentation of which also dates no farther
back than the 16th century.
The Mexuar (Arab, mtihwdry council-chamber), now used as
a Capilla, was reconstructed for its new function in 1537-44 but
was not actually used as the palace-chapel till 1629 (comp. p. 361).
In the Moorish period this may have been an audience chamber;
and the king, or the cadi as his representative, also administered
justice here. In the Gallery^ which was then probably entered ftrom
the Cuarto Dorado, the ruler assembled the most eminent of his
people as a council of state.
Palace. ALHAMBRA. 39. RouU. 363
The Altar is ftpparently an old marble chimney-piece, purohased at
Genoa in 1646 for the palace of Charles V. The figures of Abundantia
(formerly taken for nymphs), placed in the corner near by, formed part
of its plastic adornment, as did also the relief of Leda with the swan.
The altar-piece, an Adoration of the Magi» dates from 1680.
A modern door leads from the Mexuar to the old Moosisk
Chafbl (Mosala al Aidi)^ built by Mohammed V. The Mihrdb, or
pTayer-iiiche (comp. p. 314), is directed towards the S.E. This
chapel formed part of the Cuarto de Machuea (p. 365), which lay
to the N.W. of the Patio del Mexuar. Scarcely anything now remains
of it, and the site is occupied by gardens.
We return to the Christian chapel and cross the Mexuar Court
obliquely to the Yiadneto, an underground passage leading to the
Patio de la Reja (p. 364).
The *Viaduct' forms the approach to the Cellars below the Torre de
Gomares, once occupied by the keepers of the palace, and to the 8ala
de las Ninfas, below the Sal a de la Barca and so called from the two
above-mentioned statues, which were formerly kept here. It also led to
the Passage that ran round the inside of the walls of the whole enclosure
for the use of the sentinels and other defenders.
At the end of the viaduct we turn to the right and reach the
"^Batlis (Bano9)f extensive underground apartments, constructed by
Yusuf I. to the N.E. of the Court of the Myrtles. We first enter the
Sola de las Camas or de los Divanee, used for undressing and for re-
posing after the bath. It contains a gallery for singers and two alcoves
for couches. The inscriptions and the mural decorations are modern,
the latter arbitrarily restored by Rafael Contreras. More interesting
are the slender columns supporting the superstructure, the Moorish
fountain, and the mosaic flooring. This room is followed by the
Baths themselves, with marble tubs and a main room corresponding
to the Roman Tepidarium. The heating apparatus ( color tfero) re-
sembled the Roman Hypocaustum, but has been destroyed.
From the Sala de las Camas we turn to the right into the ♦Patio
de Baraxa (p. 362), a charming court shaded by orange-trees. The
Fountain^ placed here in 1626, was probably brought from the Patio
del Mexuar (p. 362). The upper basin , with a long inscription,
is Moorish, but the lower part dates from the 16th century. — The
Aposentos de Cablos Quinto, surrounding this court , were con-
structed by order of Charles V. in the Moorish palace-garden (p. 362)
and adorned (ca. 1537) with grotesques in the style of the logge of
the Vatican by Julio de Aquiles and Alexander Mayner, pupils of
Raphael and Giovanni da Udine. One of these rooms contains the
Alharnibra Archives ^ consisting of about 300 portfolios with the
designs and accounts of the artists of the 16th cent, employed in the
construction of the imperial palace. Another contains modern out-
line drawings of the paintings in the Sala de la Justicia (p. 360).
The last of the suite of rooms known as the Solas de las Frutas was
occupied by Washington Irving when writing his charming *Tales
of the Alhambra' in 1829 (comp. p. 351). — To the S.W., beneath
364 Route 39. ALHAMBRA. Charle$ V:$ Palaee.
the Room of the Two Sisters (p. 361), lies the 8ala de los Seereio$,
with interesting acoustic properties.
Between the Patio de Daraxa and the Torre de Gomares (p. 368)
lies the small Patio de la Beja, built In 1654-55 and taking its
name from the window-grilles in the upper story. It is adorned
with a fountain and four cypresses. — The staircase in the N. comer
leads to the Sala de los Embajadores (p. 358). To the right we
proceed through a modern room to the Cobsbdobbs Modbbnos,
connecting the Sala de los Embajadores with the Peinador de la Reina.
The corridor was adorned with frescoes by Julio de Aquiles and
AUxcmder Mayner in 1537-39, but these have recently been remoyed.
The *Peinador de la Beina, in the upper story of Ytksuf I.'s
Torre de Peinador ^ also owes its existence to Charles V. The
attractive grotesques (partly restored in 1624) and the scenes from
the campaign against Tunis ri535; sadly scratched) are by the two
artists named above (1539-4d). The initials F and Y are a memorial
of the visit of Philip V. and Queen Isabella, whose *dressing-room'
or *boudoir' (peinador) this was. The view is superb. The marble
slab drilled with 16 holes, in a comer of the room, is said to have
been used for the admission of perfumes but may be a primitive form
of 'register' for hot air.
The large •Palace of Charles V. (PI. 17; E, 2), to the S.W. of
the Moorish Palace of the Alhambra, was a result of Charles V.'s
visit to Qranada (comp. p. 351). It was as early as 1526 that, by
his instructions, Pedro Machuca, an artist who had formed himself
at Rome under the influence of Raphael, made the design for the
magnificent, though never completed building. The style resembled
that prevalent in Rome at the height of the Renaissance. Large
parts of the old Alhambra were sacrificed for the new edifice. The
cost was defrayed with the tribute paid by the Moors for certain
immunities and privileges and with a new poll-tax levied from
them. At the time of Machuca's death (1550) the facades (but not
the portals) and the foundation-walls of the interior were complete.
His son Luis Machuca (d. 1572) continued the building and began
the magnificent colonnaded court that Pedro had designed (not
finished till 1616). The uprising of the Moriscoes (1568) inter-
rupted the work for 15 years. The subsequent operations were
carried on under the superintendence (successively) of Juan de
Oreay Juan de Mijares^ and Pedro Velaseo, but did not come to a
definite close before the first half of the 17th century. The roof was
never finished, and among the other portions that remained on
paper only were the great triumphal arch on the S. side and the
octagonal chapel in the N.E. angle, the dome of which was to rise
above all the other buildings of the Alhambra.
The building forms an imposing quadrangle, 207 ft. square and 53 ft.
height. On the S. and W. are two handsome portals. The groondfioor
Santa Maria. ALHAMBRA. 39. Route. 365
of massive rustica masonry is surmounted by an upper floor in the Ionic
style, topped with a Doric cornice. The portals (some of the work on
which is very fine) and the rich ornamentation and sculptures in serpent-
ine from the Sierra Nevada or the marble of Ifacael (p. 338) and the
Sierra de Elvira, are due, according to the records of the Archives (p. 363),
to Juan de Orea, Antonio de Levaly Juan de Cahillana, Andris de Oeampo,
NieeoU da Corte^ and other artists. Among the best of these works are
the charming *Beliefs with scenes of battle (Battle of Pavia?), an alleg-
orical representation of the Triumph ot Peace (an allusion to the peace
with Francis I. of France ?) , and the trophies and winged female figures
over the portals.
The Intssiob (entr. , see p. 368) consists of a series of rooms built
round a large central *Conrtj which is circular in form, with a diameter
of 102 ft. The lower stage of the arcade surrounding this court is in the
Doric style, the upper in the Ionic (32 columns). The main staircase,
completed in 1635, is in the N.W. angle.
To the S.E. of Charles V.'s palace, ou the other side of the
Plaza de los Aliimos, stands the Insignificant church of Santa Maria
(PI. 18; E, F, 2), a Renaissance edifice built hy Juan de Orea
(p. 364) and Amhrosio de Vico (p. 337) in 1581-1618, with the aid
of a design by Herrera. It occupies part of the site of the small
Mezquita Real, built by Mohammed III. (p. 350) and removed as
insecure in 1576. The first mass after the fall of Granada was
read in this mosque.
An ancient Visigothic inscription on a slab of white marble, let into
the S. wall of the church, above the second door, records the erection of
the churches of SS. Stephen, Vincent, and John under Kings Witeric and
Reecand* A stone column, erected in 1590, commemorates the death of
two Christian martyrs in 1897.
The Galle Real, to the S. of Santa Maria, leads to the Alhambra
'Alta (p. 349). At No. 43 are the scanty remains of a small Moorish
Bathj built by Mohammed III. and destroyed about 1534. — Farther
on in the same direction lies the Convento de San Francisco (PI. 19 ;
F, 2), the oldest convent in Granada, built iu 1493-95 and mod-
ernized in the 18th century. The capilla mayor of the church,
with an arch like those in the Sala de la Justicia (p. 360), origin-
ally formed a room of a Moorish Palace of the time of Moham-
med V. The 'Catholic Kings' were interred in the vault below the
choir and were not removed to their present resting-place till 1521
(comp. p. 340). — In the huerta to the E. of Santa Maria stood the
Pcdaee of Count Tendilla (p. 351), which was torn down by the last
Alcaide of the family when deprived of his office (comp. p. 351).
To the N. of Santa Maria we cross the Alameda, passing (left)
the mins of the Rauda (p. 360) and the outside wall of the Court
of the Lions , and then descend to the left between walls. This
brings us to a group of ruinous cottages , with a few Moorish re-
mains, and to the Torre de las Damas (PI. 20; E, 2), a fortified
tower, probably dating from the reign of Yiisuf I. The interior has
been totally changed. — A few paces to the E. lies the Carmen
de Arratiai a villa in a charming garden, once occupied (according
to an inscription) by Estacio de Bracamontej 'Escudero' of Count
Tendilla (see above), and now in private hands. Incorporated with
366 Route 39. ALHAMBRA. Alhamhra Alta.
it Is a tiny *Moomh Chapel (1372 ft. X 10 ft.), with an elegant
piayer-niche, also dating from the time of Yusuf I. The fine de-
coration was badly restored in 1846. A side-room contains an in-
scription and two large lions from the facade of a Moorish hospital,
torn down in 1843. The lions, made of limestone from the Sierra
de Elvira, resemble those in the Court of the Lions. Fine view of
the valley of the Darro.
Farther on in the same direction]]we reach the Torre de los Pieos
(PI. 21; F, 2), so named from its battlements. To the right of the
tower, above a bastion (baluartej, is the Pnerta de Hierro (PI. 22;
F, 2), or 'Iron Gate', restored under the *Catholic Kings'. It opens on
the Cuesta del Key Ohico (p. 343) and the path leading from it to
the Generalife (p. 367).
Continuing to follow the line of the walls and the passage be-
hind them (p. 365) along the top of the plateau , we pass the Torre
del Candil and reach the *Torre de la Cantiva (PI. 23; F, 2), built
by Yusuf I. and restored by R. Contreras in 1873-76. Its name
is derived firom a mistaken modern idea^that Isabel de Solis (p. 335)
was kept here as a 'captive'. The decorations of its large room,
notable for its long inscriptions, vie with the best in the Alhambra.
— The Torre de las Infantas (PI. 24; F, 2), built under Moham-
med VII. (comp. p. 350), contains a lofty hall, with alcoves and a
fountain. On the groundfloor are a vaulted zaguan and rooms for
the guard. The flat roof (azotea) affords a delightful riew. — The
Torre del Agua (PI. 25; F, 2), or Water Tower, contains a small
reservoir for the aqueduct of the Alhambra (comp. p. 352).
At the upper end of the Cuesta del Rey Chico (see above) , to
the left, is the modern Puerta Exterior (PI. 27; F, 2) of the Oenera-
life (p. 367). To the right is a road leading to the Alhambra hotels
and the Alhambra Park. On this road, partly hidden by the Hotel
Roma, lies the Puerta de los Biete SueloB (PI. 26, F 2; 'Gate of
the Seven Floors'), the Moorish B?6 al^Oodor, the gate by which
Boabdil is said to have left the Albambra and which was walled up
at his request. The towers were originally 72 ft. high. The gate
stands on a bastion, the subterranean passages of which gave rise
to the rumours of hidden treasures used by W. Irving in his tales.
Near the Washington Irving Hotel is the entrance to the villa
Los Mabtikbs (PI. G, 2) or Calderon , finely situated on the top of
the Monte Mauror. It has lately been purchased by M. Mersmann,
a Belgian mine-owner, who is restoring the grounds and for the
present refuses admittance. Its name , like that of the Campo de
los Mdrtires (PI. F, 3), refers to the Christian captives employed in
the building of the Alhambra, who were confined at night, virith
fetters on their ancles, in the underground silos or maKmorras
(p. 267) constructed here by Mohammed I.
From the Campo de los Martires to the Plaza de Santo Domingo, see
p. 848; to the Faseo de la Bomba, see p. 348.
Generalife. GRANADA. 39. RouU. 36'/
c. The Oeneralife.
At the foot of the Cerro dt Sol, to the £. of the Alhamhra Hill
and about 165 ft ahove it, lies the '^Palaeio de Generalif^ (PI. E,
F, 1 ; adm., see p. 333}| the celebrated summer-residence of the
Moorish princes. The name of Generalife or Oinalarifc is a corrup-
tion of the Arabic DJennat al-*Arlf ('garden of 'Arif or, perhaps,
*of the architect') and doubtless commemorates its original owner.
According to an Arabic inscription in the interior the palace was
renovated by Ahul-Walld hma'U; and in 1494 et seq. it received,
by command of Isabella the Catholic, an addition of two stories,
which have largely disappeared, and was surrounded by new build-
ings. After the death of the Alcaide Don Ptdro de Oranada (d, 1566),
said to be a direct descendant of Ibn Hud (p. 335), the so-called
Marquisti de Oranada held the office of superintendent of the Ge-
neralife until quite recent times. The present owner, the Marquis
de CampoUjarj is also the proprietor of the well-known Villa Palla-
vicini, near Genoa. The interior of the palace is very dilapidated
and largely spoiled by reconstruction. Tiie original deoorations,
dating about half-a- century earlier than those of the main halls
of the Alhambra, are for the most part covered with whitewash.
The old approach, mentioned at p. 366, placed the Generalife in
direct communication with the Alhambra. The palace was entered
through two Courit, now mainly built up, and by a well-preserved
Gateway on the W. side, bearing the symbolic key (p. 353).
From the modern Puerto Exterior de Generalife (PI. 27 ; F, 2),
where visitors ring, a footpath, lined with clipped cypresses and
commanding beautiful views, leads to the New Entrance (PI. 28 ;
Fj 1), on the S. side of the building.
This entrance gives on a picturesque Coubt (160 ft. X 42 ft.),
which is still diversified as in the days of the Moors with myrtles
and orange-trees and intersected by the aqueduct of the Alhambra.
The buildings on the E. side date from the 16th century. The W.
side Is bounded by a Portico of 18 pointed arches, the middle door
of which leads to a Mirador (Arab, manzar, 'belvedere'), now used
as a chapel. On the N. side is an Arcade of five arches, beyond
which is a Portal, with three arches, bearing the above-mentioned
inscription. This»leads to an oblong Hall, 42V2 ft. in length, with
alcoves at each end. Behind the hall is a smaller square Room, the
balcony of which affords a fine a lew of the valley of the Darro. —
The Sola de lot Reyet and the Sola de los Retratos, to the right and
left of the room with the balcony, contain mediocre portraits of
Spanish sovereigns siiice Ferdinand and Isabella and also 14 alleged
portraits of the so-called Marqueses de Granada, chiefly copies of
the 17th century. No. 12 is said to represent Boabdil (?).
The ♦Gabdbn of the Generalife, to the E. of and above the main
building, is one of the most interesting survivals of the Moorish
period, resembling, with its terraces, grottoes, water-works, and
368 R<mU39. GRANADA.
clipped hedges, an Italian villa of the late Renaissance. We first
entei the Patio de lot Cipreses^ with an arcade of 1584-86 and a
pond shaded by renerable and gigantic cypresses. Under the CiprSs
de la Sultanay 600 years old, is supposed to have taken place the
imaginary tryst between the wife of Boabdil and Hamet the Aben-
cerrage (p. 360). — The Ckimno de las Cateadas, a well-preserved
flight of Moorish steps, with runlets for water on the top of its balus-
trades, ascends to the upper part of the garden. Here stands a
*Mirador (PI. 29 ; F, 1), erected in 1836 and commanding an ex-
tensive view of Granada, the Alhambra, and the valley of the Darro.
The Billa del Moro (PI. F, 1), a knoll 6 min. above the Mirador and
affording a Bimilar view, is sapposed to be the site of a mosque, con-
verted into the Ohristlan Ermita de Santa Elena. — Hard by runs the
aqueduct of the Alhambra (p. 362), and iu the vicinity are the Mbercdn de
ku Datncu and other relics of Moorish tanks. One of the draw-wells
(noria) has a depth of 194 ft. The sumptuous Palaee of Daralharoia may
also have occupied this site. — A little farther to the S. are the Aljibe
de la Llmoia, a large cistern still in use, and the Albercdn del Jfegro, a tank
180 ft. long and 68 ft. wide.
About Vs K. to the 8.E. of the Generalife lies the Oementtrio (PI. H,
1), which was laid out in 1804. It contains many niche-graves (p. 210)
and affords a view of the Sierra l^evada. — Some scanty remains of the
Moorish Falacio de lot Alixaret were found in this neighbourhood in 1890.
About 11/4 M. farther on, on the way down to the valley of the Genii, are
the remains of the palace of i>(lr a<-fFM.Criver palace'), commonly known
as the Caea de la$ Oallincu.
d. Excursions from Granada.
Drivel. To the Llanot de Armilla, an unfruitful section of the vega,
commanding a good view of the city and the Sierra Nevada (there and
back 2 hrs.). — To the villages oi Huetor^ Cckfar, and La Rubia^ a
round of 3 hrs. It was at La Bubia that Isabella the Catholic, according
to the story, had to take refuge from the Moors in a laurel-bush. — To
Visnai\ at the base of the Bie^'ra de Alfacar (2 hrs.); thence on foot to
(1 hr.) the Fuente Grande. A walk of 3 hrs. more reaches a stalactite cavern.
Excursion to the Upper YiJley of the Genii (2 days). We drive via
Cenes to (6 M.) the Wilhelmi Paper Mill, situated at the confluence of the
Affuas Blancat with the Genii. We then proceed on foot through the
picturesque and narrow valley to Fanos and (10 M.) Giiejar, a village
famous for its excellent drinking-water. The hill above commands a
good view of the Alcazdba and the Mulhacen (see below)} and a still
more extensive prospect is obtained from the (2 hrs.) Cerro (kUali to the
N. of Gflejar. — Next morning we proceed to the (*/* hr.) foundry of Mar-
tinete, at the mouth of the Maitena^ to the (20 min.) smelting- work of
Jttedn, and to (1 hr.) the Barranco de San Jttan^ where luncheon may be
taken. Thence we go on to (2 hrs.) the mines of fytrella^ enjoying a
view of the Alcaziba about halfway. In s/4 ^' more we reach the JW-
iicia Miney where accommodation may possibly be obtained at the manager's.
Near the shaft on the right bank is a waterfall of some size. Another
i/s hr. hrings us to the *Yalle de Infiemo, a narrow ravine in which the
two sources of the Genii unite. The grandly imposing mountain-back-
ground is best surveyed from the steep hill 1/4 hr. to the right of the path.
Excurtions in the Sierra Nevada (practicable in summer only). Guides
and mules (4-6 p. per day and keep of driver) may be obtained at the
hotels. Tents, rugs or blankets, snow-veils, and provisions must all be
brought from Granada. — The ascent of the *Pioacho de Yeleta (11,886 ft.)
takes two days. Starting early in the morning, we ascend the Gamino de
los Neveros (p. 849) and in about 4 hrs. reach the spot for luncheon, under
^-^cky ridge of El Domajo (6930 ft.). We then pass the PeSion de San
TEBA. 40, Route, 369
Franciteo (8460 ft.) and reach the high valley with the Laguna de leu
T$K%ias (9744 f%.), a moniitain-lake on the banks of which the night is spent.
An early start on the second day brings us in SVa hrs. to the top, which
commands a magnificent nanorama of the Sierra Nevada and of the abyss
(if the Corral de Veleta, filled with iee and snow. In clear weather the
Sierra Morena is visible to the K. and the Atlas Kts. to^the S., beyond
the Mediterranean.
The view from the Cerro de Mnlhaeen (t.«. Uuley Bauant 11,430 fl.),
the highest summit of the Sierra Nevada, is not fo imposing, but the rest
of the excursion is more enjoyable (4 days). 1st Day: To the ValU d» In-
Jfemo (p. 968) and thence to the mountain-valley of Vacares (ca. 9200 ft.),
where the night is passed. Here we have a grand retrospect of the
three p<>aks of the Aleataba (10,435 ft.); to the left rises the massive Hul-
hacen, more in the foreground the Picacho de Veleta. — 3nd Day: We
ascend on foot, by a somewhat trying route, to (7-9 hrs.) the top of the
M ulhacen, while the mules are sent round to meet us. The night is spent
on the S. slope. -' 3rd Day : We descend past the Moorish-looking villages
of CapiUira (4760 ft.), Bplbion (4315 ft.), and Pampaneira (3625 ft.), in the
ViiUiys of Alpt^jarrw.io the fertile Valley of Poqveira and on to the small
chalybeate baths of tanjaron (2230 ft.), which Iie.>>, with its ruined castle
and groves of oranges and chestnuts, under the snow-clad summit of the
Cerro CabaUo (i0,3§0 ft.). — 4th Day. By the highrrad back to (25 M.)
Granada (diligence thrice weekly in about 6 hrs.),
40. From Bobadilla to Gibraltar ▼!& Bonda and
Algeciras.
Bailway to (111 M.) Alffecirat in 5-6 hrs. (two through-trains daily i, fares
22 p. 55, 16 p. 90, 10 p. 25 c). There is also a local train on Mon., Thurs.,
& Sat. from Ronda to Algeciras, The ^Sud Express" service from Paris to
Madrid is continued every Wed. to and from Algeciras and Gibraltar
(56 hrs. from London ; fare about 13/. 4s.). The railway, belonging to an
English company, has excellent first-class and second-class carriages. Ronda
is one of the most interesting towns in Spain ; and the scenery between
Bonda and Algeciras is attractive. — From the pier at Algeeirae Puerto
Steamboats, connecting with the trains, cross 6 times daily to OibraHar
in 25 min. (fares 1 p. S», 75 c). Direct tickets to Gibraltar, including the
t ansport of luggage, are issued at all railway-stations.
Bobadilla^ see p. 320. — The train traverses a featureless pla-
teau to (9 M.) CampiUo8j and then intersects the last N. spuTs of
the mountains of S. Andalusia. — 13V2 M. Teba, The little town
is picturesquely situated amid the limestone mountains, ahout 1 M.
to the left, and is visible for some time after we leave the station.
Beyond (20 M.) Almargen a dreary, water- furrowed hill-dis-
trict appears to the right, resembling the plateau of Baza and Gua-
dix (p. 298). We cross several ranges of hills. 26 M. Canete la Beat,
— The railway enters the valley of the Guadaleie (p. 431) and then
ascends to the S., between limestone hills, to the high-lying plateau
of (33V2M.) Setently near which rise the abrupt heights of the 8er-
rania de Ronda (p. 370).
We now pass a small lake (left) 'and traverse an undulating
district with groves of cork-trees. 3o M. Parchite. Farther on we
have a fine view of the mountains of Ronda and ascend through the
olive -groves to its vega. The station of (44 M.) Bonda lies to the
E. of the town.
Babdskks's Spain. 24
370 Route 40, RONDA. From Bohadilla
Bonda (ca. 2460 ft.; H6L Gibraltar, Plaza AlaTc6n 6; Fonda
Bonde9ia \ unpretending , pens, with wine 7-8 p. ; H6t. America^
pens. 9-10, omn. 1 p., mediocre ; Rail. Restaurant^ with rooms), a
pleasant country town with about 25,000 inhab., is picturesquely
situated in the midst of a magnificent amphitheatre of mountains. To
the N.W. is the Sierra de QraxaUma^ with the flve-peaked Ctrro de
San CristSbal (6630 ft.); to the S.W., the Sierra de Libar (p. 372) ;
to the S., the Sierra de Ronda and Sierra de Estepona; to the S.E.,
the Sierra de Tolox (6426 ft.). From the wide and fertile vega at
the base of these mountains rises an isolated hill, which on the
W. and N.W. descends in almost perpendicular precipices, while
it is rent in twain by a chasm , 300 ft. wide and 630 ft. deep,
formed by the river Quadcdevin, The Old Town, built by the Moors
with the stones of the Roman Arunda (p. 372; Arab. Ronda'), occu-
pies the S. point of this hill, the only access to which (S.) is guard-
ed by the Alcazaba. At its foot has arisen the small Barrio de San
Francisco. The N. end of the hill is occupied by the Nbw Town, or
Mercadillo, founded by the * Catholic Kings' on the surrender of
Ronda (May 20th, I486), which fell after a bombardment of 20 days.
The town was then settled by colonists from N. Andalusia and
other parts of Spain, but has nevertheless retained its semi-
Orieatal character down to the present day. One symptom of this is
seen in the unusually heavy gratings of the windows. The inhabit-
ants long had the fame of being the most daring smugglers and the
most dexterous horse- tamers in S. Spain. The once considerable
manufactures of Ronda have almost died out, and Its chief sources
of revenue are flour-milling, fruit-grovdng, and the production of
excellent white wines. In consequence of its lofty situation Ronda
enjoys a fresh and salubrious climate. It is lighted with electricity.
From the railway-station a badly paved street leads to the W,
to (Y2M.) the new town, with its straight and monotonous streets,
its low, whitewashed houses, and the three hotels. Nearly oppo-
site the point where we reach the main street stands the Pla%a de
Toros, in which bull-fights are held during the Feria (May 20-
22rid), one of the most interesting annual fairs in Spain. At the
end of the performance the dead bodies of the horses are simply
thrown over the neighbouring precipice into the valley of the Guada*
levin and left to be devoured by birds of prey. — A little to the
N. lies the ♦Alameda, with its pleasant grounds. The ralled-in
platforms on its W. side command a splendid view of the old town,
the vega, the river 600 ft. below us, and the lofty mountains.
We return to the main street and turn to the S. to the (3 min.)
imposing ♦*Tajo (i.e, ^cutting*, 'gorge' ; 360 ft. deep) of the Qua-
dalevin , filled with the spray of the foaming river. At its narrowest
point (230 ft.) it is crossed by the Puente Nuevo, a bridge of one bold
span, constructed in 1761 by JosS Martin de Alduguela of Malaga.
The bridge affords splendid views of the vertical sides of the ravine
toOihraltar, RONDA. 40, Route, ^7 i
and the rook-choked bed of the riyer. The E. bank is partly over-
grown by cactus, while on the W. side are a number of millSy past
which the river hurries in a series of boiling rapids and cascades.
From the open space in the old town, just above the bridge, we
reach in a straight direction the church of Santa Maria la Mayor
and the Alcaxaba (see below). To the right is the way to Campillo
and the mills (see below). — To the left is the Galle del Puente Viejo,
leading to the (2 min. j Gasa del Rby Moro (No. 17) , with its
view-terrace orerlooking the Tajo. The Mina, an underground
staircase of 366 steps descending to the river, was hewn out by
the Moors to obviate the danger of a water-famine in case of a siege
(fee Vs'l P-)* '^^^ street continues to descend, passing (1 min.)
the Casa del Marquei de Salvatierra , with its singular Renaissance
portal , to the two lower Tajo bridges , the Puente de San Miguel
and the Moorish Puente Viejo.
From the last-named bridge we ascend to the S. by a stony path
skirting the £. margin of the old town, here still for the most part
sheltered by well-preserved Arab walls and towers. In 10 min.
we reach a road descending to the church of EspMtu Santo and the
Barrio de San Francisco (p. 370). An ascent of 1 min. hence brings
ns to the Moorish Aleasabay laid in ruins by the French in 1808.
A few hundred yards to the !N. is a plaza with a column to the
memory of Vicente de Esp<t)«{ (1550-1624), a poet and musician
who was bom at Ronda. Adjacent is the interesting church of
Santa Masia la Mayor, originally a Moorish mosque and still
retaining some of its Moorish cupolas. The Ck)thio aisles and the
lofty plateresque capilla mayor were later additions. The Renais-
sance choir-stalls are adorned with 24 good figures of saints and
reliefs of the Annunciation, Visitation, and Marriage of the Virgin.
The Calle de la Oaridad leads from the S.W. angle of this plaza
to (2 min.) another small square, on the left side of which (No. 6)
stands the Caea de Mondragdny a Renaissance edifice with two
attractive courts and several good wooden ceilings in the Mudtfjar
style. From the balcony and the two terraces we look almost sheer
down into the abyss of the Tajo (fee 50 c).
Beyond this house we descend to the left to visit the CampiUo^
a shady plaza on the W. border of the old town, affording a good
view of the bull-ring and of part of the new town.
We may now return to the (3 min.) Puente Nuevo (p. 370) and
the new town, or we may descend to the left, on the W. side of the
hill, to the Mills (Molinos) on the Gnadalevin. The easy main
path leads circuitously to (V2 ^r.) the Jjower MiUt. A narrow path,
diverging to the right at the first bend, leads to (5 min.) the
Upper MiUj which commands a fine Tiew of the Puente Nuevo and
the falls of the Quadalevin. The path leading hence to (20 min.)
the lower mills is partly cut in the rock and should not be attempted
by those with any tendency to dizziness.
24*
372 Route 40. GAUCIN. From Bohadilla
EzcuBflioMS. The rains of the Roman town of Arunda or Ronda la
Vieja , with important remains of an amphitheatre , lie V/t M . to the K.
The '^ew reaches on the N. to the Sierra If orena. — The Cueva del Oato
may be yislted from Ronda on horseback (2 hrs.) or from the station of
Benaojitt (see below).
The Railway to Aloeciras runs at first towards the N. To the
left we see the lower part of the line , with the station of Monte-
j&que (see below). — 481/2 M. Arriate. The railway then sweeps
round to the S.W. and sinks into the valley of the Guadaleviii,
whieh below Ronda takes the name of Ouadiaro, — 547^ M.
Montejaqut lies to the right, at the base of the Sitrra de Libar,
along the steep flanks of which the railway runs. To the right is
the Cueva del Qato ('cat's cave'), a large stalactite cavern traversed
by a hrook. — 58 M. Benaojdn^ with olive-groves. Beyond two
tunnels we cross to the left bank of the river, here closely hemmed
in. — 62 M. Jimeray with rich groves of olives and oranges. —
68 M. Cortes , in a plain with numerous olives and almond-trees.
The part of the railway between this point and San Pablo is the
finest of all and considerably taxed the resources of the engineer.
The Guadlaro forces its circuitous way through the steep heights of
the Sierra de Ronda^ on which nothing grows butpalmettoes (p. 227).
The railway passes from bank to bank by tunnels and bridges. The
romantic * Ouadiaro Oorge^ the narrowest part, is reached beyond
the seventh tunnel. On emerging from the next tunnel we enjoy a
grand view (left) of the mouth of the gorge, seen to still greater
advantage by the traveller In the reverse direction. Four tunnels.
75 M. Oaucin. The little town of this name (2034 ft. ; Parador
de lo8 Inglesea) lies high up in the mountains, 5V2 M. to the E.
It has the ruins of a Moorish castle and commands a fine, though
distant view of Qibraltar, the sea, and the coast of Africa. — The
train runs high above the right bank of the river through a tunnel
and several cuttings. 81 M. San Pablo^ the first place in the Campo
de Gibraltar and province of Cadiz, lies amid oak-grown hills.
84 M. Jimena de la Frontera (p. 429) is the station for the
small town of the same name (6600 inhab.), which lies 2M. to the
W., on the hillside beyond the streamlet of Hoagarganta. It also
contains an old Moorish castle and is a favourite excursion from
Gibraltar. At the foot of the hill is the sanctuary of Nuestra Senora
de los Angeles, with a venerable stone image of the Virgin. — We
cross the Hosgarganta. To the left, in the distance, rises the Sierra
de Esiepona or de Santa Bermeja. — 91 M. Casteltar, a decayed
Moorish fortress, lies 3 M. to the W., on a hill between the Hosgar-
ganta and the Quadarranque,
The hilly district between the Guadiaro and the Guadarranque
is celebrated for its cork-woods (Quercus suber). To the right lie
the convent and (97 M.) station of Almot€tima. The former, founded
in 1603 and now private property, is much frequented by the rural
population on May 3rd.
^r
to Oihr altar, ALQECIBAS. 40, Route. 373
101 M. San Boqne (Oavarron Hotel -, Casmona; Brit. Vice-
Consul, (?. F, Comwell), The small city (8000 Inhab.), not visible
from the railway , lies on a ridgB to the N. of the Bay of Algeciras
(see below) and was built, like Los Barrios and the new quarter of
Algeciras, by the Spaniards who left Gibraltar after 1704 (p. 377). ■—
To the left appears the wide Bay of Algeciras, with the limestone
precipices of Gibraltar and the African coast with the Sierra BuUones
(p. 380). The surface is now quite level. We cross the Guadar-
ranque near its mouth, where, on the fdjm of Et Bocadillo , are
some inconsiderable mounds, marking the site of the ancient town
of Carteia (p. 376). -- 105 M. Los Barrios; the place is 2V2 M. to
the W. of the railway. — We pass under an arch of the old Moorish
aqueduct of Algeciras, cross the river Falmones^ and descend in a
wid« sweep to the S. to (IIO74 M.) Algeciras- Estaeidn, the main
station, and (111 M.) Algeciras- Puerto^ the harbour station.
Algeciras. — Hot«ls. Hotel Habina; H5t. Vigtobia, pens, with
wine 7 p., clean; H6t. Calpk, also clean.
Steamers. The railway-steamers (p. 369) Elvira and Margarita ply four
times daily to (6 M.) Qihraltar (1 p. 25, 76 c). A steamer also runs to Centa daily.
Diligence to San Fernando (Cadiz), see p. 435.
Britieh Yice-Oopsal, /. H. Hayne*.
Algeciras, a town with 12,200 inhab., lies on the W. side of the
Bay of Algeciras. between the last S.E. outliers of the Sierra de los
Gazules, The modem town and harbour are separated by the Miel
(S.) from the scanty remains of Old Algeciras , which was founded
by the Moors in 713, two years after their first invasion of Spain
(p. 377). The Moorish name, al-Qezira al-Khadrd ('green island'),
is also preserved in the Isla Verde lying opposite the town. In 1344
Algeciras was taken from the Moors by Alfonso XI. of Castile, but
it was recaptured in 1368 by Mohammed Y. of Granada and almost
totally destroyed. In 1704 the town was re-colonized by the Spa-
niards who left Gibraltar, and in 1760 it was considerably enlarged
by Charles III. It has now, however, almost no trade or industry,
except in cork from the forests of Andalusia.
The Feeey to Gibraltar (1/2 br.) affords a fine view of the
rock of Gibraltar and of the Sierra Bullones, in Africa, to the S.
Qibraltar. — Hotels. Hotel Eubopa, New Hole Parade, in an open
situation on the 8. side of the town, IVs H. from the pier, well adapted
for a stay; H6t. Bbistol, Cathedral Square, quietly and pleasantly situ-
ated; Gkand HStel, Waterport Street, a small and noisy house with
good attendance , pens, from 10s. ; HdxEL Eotal, Waterport Street, vari-
ously criticised. — Less pretending: H6tel Continental, Waterport Street,
good rooms: Calpb Hotel, Waterport Street, recently restored and re-
furnished. In spite of their comparatively high prices . none of these hotels
is quite up to modern requirements. Bargaining is advisable in every case.
Table wine is charged extra. English money is generally demanded in
payment, though the landlords give nothing but Spanish money in change. —
Lodging Houses. ^Carlton House, Wheatley Terrace; Senrif House, King's
Yard Lanej *' Rugby House, Prince Edward's Ramp.
374 RouUdO, GIBRALTAR. Cah$.
lUitMurtati on tbe Alameda (p. 378) and at the Royal and Grand Hotels,
— Ca/d Universal^ Waterport Street. — Imperial^ Governor's Street. — The
Olasi Barrel is a beer-hoose frequented by soldiers and sailors.
Oabs (stands at Waterport Gate * Commercial Square, and Cathedral
Square). Drive in the lower town, oetween Waterport Gate and the Ala-
meda, 00 c.^ in the upper parts of the town 1 p., to Catalan Bay IVt p.,
to the lighthouse 1 p. 85 c.. to the Governor's Cottage 2Vtp. Per How
1 p. 85 c. its. 6d.) each additional i/t hr. 60 c. The above fares are for
1-2 ]>er8ons; each extra person pays 30 c. more (to the lighthouse or Gover-
nor's Cottage 50 c.). Each article of luggage 20 c. — The cabmen generally
refuse to take a fare at these legal prices; it is necessary to make a
bargain in advance. Complaints should be addressed to the police.
Saddle Horaea may be hired of Frank Bant^ College Lane) H, QonzaleSy
or .Capetano J Horse Barrack Lane.
Omnibus every >/> ^'- ^^om. Commercial Square to the Kew Mole
Parade (20 c^.
Poet Ofllee, Waterport Street, open 8-6 (on Sun. 10-11, 2-2.80, and
5.30-6.80). — Telagzapk Offlee, in the same building, open from 8 a.m. till
9 p.m. (April-Sept, from 7 a.m.).
Theatres. T/teatre /Zoyal, Governor's Parade, for opera? ; Auemblp Rooms.
in the Alameda (p. 378), built in 1881-85, for dramas. — A MiUtary Band
plays on the Alameda on Hon. and Thurs., 3-5 p.m. (in summer 9 p.m.).
Public Baths, Irish Town. — Bea Baths^ from Kay to October.
Banks. Anglo -Egyptian Bankj opposite the police - of flee ^ Larios
Hermanosf A. Z,. Oalliano^ Cannon Lane: Jos. Cuhy Jt Sons^ Church St.
Money (comp. p. 373). — The coins in common circulation in Gibraltar
are the Oold 25-peseta piece; Silver coins of 5, 2, 1, V21 i^d V« peseta;
and Bronte of 10, 5, 2, and 1 centimo. The5-pese(a piece is usually called
'dollar'. Shopkeepers generally accept Ul gold and silver coins current in
Spain, and also British coins at the current rate of exchange ; but British
currency is not legal tender.
Bookseller, A, Beankmd^ 103 Church Street. — Garrison Library, Gov-
ernor's Parade, founded in 1798, with about 50,000 vols, and large read-
ing and club rooms.
Photographs. BenolM d: Co.^ Gunner's Lane and Waterport Street;
A. Freyontt 96 Waterport Street. — Lithographs. Jfaius SpiUer^ Church St,
United States Consul, H. J. Spraaue^ Prince Edward's Road.
Steamboats. To Algeeiraa^ see p. 873; to Cadiz via Tangier^ see p. 8S0.
— North German Lloyd (oomp. p. xviii) four times a month between New
York, Gibraltar, and Genoa (agents, /. Onetti & Sons. Engineer Lane). —
Austrian Lloyd between Trieste, Gibraltar, and Brazil (agents, Longlands^
Cotoell, & Co.y Cloister Bamp). — Compagnie Transatlantique^ for Marseilles,
Gran, Malaga, and Tangier (see pp. 322, 380). — HaWs Line from Gib-
raltar via Malaga {il.) to Cadiz (U. 10s.) and Lisbon (London), see p. 435
(agents, /. Peacock A Co.^ Irish Town). — O/'ietW BIteam Navigation Co. to
Naples and Port Said (agent?, Bmith^ Jmossiy de Co., Irish Town). — Royal
Mail Bleamer Company to Malta, Brindisi, Alexandria, Port Said, and Suez
{Smithy Jmossiy Jb Co.., see above). — To England, see p. xvii.
Small Boats. For landing or embarking 1 p., ea^h piece of luggage 25 c.
Many complaints are made of the confusion of this service, and the de-
mands of the boatmen are often exorbitant. Complaints should be ad-
dressed to the port- officials. — The Custom House Examination takes place
at the Harbour Gate.
Principal Sights (one day). Morning: walk through the town and
visit the Alameda (p. 878) and Galleries (p. 378). Afternoon : excursion to
Europa Point and Govemor^s Cottage (p. 378) or to Catalan Bay (p. 380).
Guides (10 p. per day ; superfluous) , at the hotels. — It is prohibi-
ted to make either drawings or notes, when near the fortifications. It
should be noted that the gates are closed after the evening gun, but up to
11.30 p.m. free egress or ingress is obtained on application at the Police
Station; after 11.80 p.m. no one is allowed to enter or quit the town till
Sunrise, without special permission.
Situation. GIBRALTAR. 40. Route, 375
OibraUoft a town of 26, 184 inhab. (iucl. a garrison of 5-6000 men!
an important British fortress, and the 'key of the Mediterranean ,
lies opposite Algeciras, on the E. side of the Bay of Algecira$ or
of Qibraltar, which forma the N.E. expansion of the Strait of Oibral-
tar^ the Fretum Oaditanum or Herculeum of the anoients and the
Estreeho de Qibraltar of the Spaniards. The widest part of the
strait (ca. 28 M.) is towards its W. or oceanic end, between Cape
Trafalgar (p. 386) in Spain and Cape Spartel (p. 385) in Morocco.
The E. entrance , between the Millars of Hercules' (p. 376) , is
much narrower (1272 M.). The narrowest part of all (8 M.) is be-
tween the Punta Marroqui (p. 381), at Tarifa, and the CuehiUoa de
Svri8 in Africa. Navigation is always difficult and sometimes dan-
gerous, partly on account of the frequent land-winds from both sides
and partly owing to the strong currents. The lighter Atlantic current
on the top sometimes sets at the rate of 5 M. per hour ; below is
the Salter, and therefore heavier, current from the Mediterranean.
Gibraltar Bay, though little ajQTected by these currents, is but an
indifferent harbour owing to its want of shelter on the S.W. and
£. The bay, which is 7 M. long and 4-5 M. wide, is in the form
of a horseshoe, bounded on the N. by the Sierra de lo$ QatHles
(p. 373) with the Punta Camera , on the N. by the plain of the
Palmonee and Ouadarranque (p. 372), and on the E. by the Penin^
aula of OibraLtar with Europa Point (Punta de Ewropa),
The Bock of Qibraltar ^ consisting mainly of Jurassic limestone,
stretches almost exactly from N. to S., with a length of nearly 3 M.
and a breadth of 1/2-^4 ^- ^^- Bockgun (1356 ft.), the N. and lower
summit, is separated by a saddle from the higher ridge to the S.,
with the Signal Station (1295 ft.), the Highest Point (1396 ft.), and
Sugar Loaf HUl {O'SLara's Tower; 1361 ft.). The N. and E. sides
of this huge gray mass are almost vertical, while to the S. and W.
it descends in step-like terraces. The slopes are overgrown with
cactus , and harbour a troop of about 40 Barbary apes (Inuue eeau"
datua) , the only wild monkeys in Europe. Barbary partridges (not
elsewhere occurring in Europe) and rabbits abound. The vegetation
is somewhat more luxuriant on the lowest stage of the W. side.
The Rock is united with Spain by a Aat sandy UthmuSy i^U M.
long and only V2^* wide. The central portion of this, about 550 yds.
long, is maintained as a neutral zone between the frontiers of the
British possession and Spain. To the N. of this zone lies the strag-
gling Spanish frontier-town of La Lvnea de la Coneepeidn (p. 380).
'L'aspect de Gibraltar d^payse tout k fait rimagination ; ron ne salt
pitta oh Ton est ni ce que ron volt. Figurez vous un immense rocher
ou plutdt nne montagne de qninze cents pieds de haut qui surgit sub-
itement, brusquement, du milieu de la mer aur une terre si plate et si
basse qu^a peine rapercoit-on .... Ce qui ajoute encore k Teffet de
rocher inexplicable, c'est sa forme; Ton dirait un sphinx de granit
^norme, d^mesur^, glgantesque .... La tSte, un peu tronqu^e, es*
toum^e vers TAfrique , qu'elle semble regarder avec une attention rSver
et profonde' (Oautier).
376 Route 40. GIBRALTAB. CUmaU.
'It la the very image of an enormous lion, croached between the
Atlantic and the Mediterranean, and set there to guard the passage for
its British mistress' (Thackeray).
North Towthf or the town proper of Gibraltar, covers the N.
third of the W. slope of the rock, ^hile the other two-thirds are
occupied by the grounds of the Alameda, the attractive yillas of the
suburb of South Town^ and the Lighthouse at Europa Point. The
houses of the town, of the same neutral gray tint as the rock itself,
ascend in terraces to a height of about 260 ft. above the sea. The
streets are dark and narrow, and seldom expand into a square of
any size. There are a few small gardens. Though it has been settled
since the English occupation in 1704 by a heterogeneous swarm
of Jews and immigrants of all nationalities, the town has still pre-
served a predominantly Spanish character. The most conspicuous
figures in its streets are, however, the red-jaoketed British soldier,
the kilted Highlander , and the numerous Moors , mostly dealers
from Tangier. The traveller coming from Spain is pleasantly struck
with the cleanliness of the streets and theabsence of beggars.
The T&ADB of Gibraltar consists mainly in the importation of
live-stock and other provisions from Gallcia and Morocco, especially
from Tangier (comp. p. 383). There is also a good deal of smuggling
over the Spanish frontier. The harbour is of great importance as a
coaling-station and is entered annually by about 5000 vessels, with
a burden of 4^2 million tons.
The Climate Is not always such as to Induce the visitor to pro-
tract his sojourn. The E. wind often brings a damp fog, which
shrouds the entire Rock, while the W. side of the bay may be
glancing in the sunshine. Or the N. wind may descend, charged
with the icy cold of the snow-flelds of the Serrania de Ronda (p. 369).
In summer the bare rock becomes a regular oven, reverl^erating the
rays of the sun with almost intolerable vigour. The Inhabitants
then flee for refuge to their villas on the isthmus, which are open
to the sea-winds on both sides, or to the lofty heights of San Roque
(p. 373). The E. side of the rock is in shade in the afternoon. —
Gibraltar depends for its Dbinkino Water on the rain collected in
tanks , but a good supply for sanitary purposes is obtained from
brackish springs discovered in 1868 on the North Front (p. 379).
In antiquity the almost uninhabited rock of Cafoe (Gibraltar) and the
African promontory of Abyla or Avila (now the Sierra BuUones, near
Ceuta; p. 880) were known as the ^Pillars of Hercules'. The origin of
the name is sought in the belief that the early Phoenician mariners, not
daring to pass from the Mediterranean through the 'gateway' of the strait
into the open ocean beyond, erected here two silver columns, dedicated
to Hercules (Melkart) f. The first important settlement on this bay, per-
haps the first Phoenician colony in any part of Spain, was the town of
Carieia Cp. 373), on the left bank of the Guadarranque. Carteia, which
was also an important seaport under the Carthaginians, received the first
f The well-known sign for the dollar (|) is sometimes explained aa a
representation of the Pillars of Hercules, united by a soroU with the
'cription *non plus ultra'.
Hittory. GIBRALTAR. 40. Route. 377
Boman colony on fhe Iberian Peninsnla in B.C. 171 and seems to have
vanished from the face of the earth at the time of the Vandal invasion. It
is not till 711 that the hay again appears in history. In that year the Arab
Tdrik ibn Zijdd, at the head of a plundering expedition sent to Spain by
MAsa. the African viceroy of the Caliph of Damascus^ landed near the present
Algeciras and afterwards established a fortress on the commanding rock of
Gibraltar (comp. p. 879). It is from this Moorish warrior that Gibraltar
derives its modern name, a contracted form of Jebel al-Tdrik^ or ^hill of
T&Tik\ In 1160 the fortiflcaMons were considerably strengthened by ^Abdel-
mitmin (p. 309), the Almohad. In 1309 Guzman el Bueno captured the place
for Ferdinand IV. of Castile, but it was recaptured bv the Moors in 1338,
and it was not till St. Bernard s Day (Aug. 20th), 1462, (hat it was again
taken by Ouemany Duk$ of Medina Sidonia, and passed permanently into
the power of Castile. In 1465 the duke was invested with the castle and
Gampo de Gibraltar (p. 872) as a perpetual fief, but his descendants had
to relinquish it to the crown in 1503. Gibraltar was sacked in 1540 by
ZAa<re<fdlf> (Barbaiossa), the Algerian pirate, in consequence of which
Charles V. had the works rebuilt by Speckel of Strassburg (1640) and
caused new fortifications, extending from the S. side of the town to the
crest of the rock, to be constructed by Giop. Bait. Calvi, an engineer of
Milan (1552). In 1610 the Spanish admiral Don Juan de Mmdoea escorted
the Moriscoes back to Morocco from the very harbour where their fore-
fathers had begun their victorious career through the Peninsula. More
celebrated than all the ten sieges it underwent in its earlier history was
that which took place in 1701 during the War of the Spanish Succession,
when the British fleet under Admiral Oeorge Rooke and Prince George of
Heese-Dat-metadt surprised and overpowered the weak Spanish garrison.
The twelfth siege took place in 17o4-5, when the British succeeded in
retaining possession of the fortress in spite of a six months* bombardment
by the combined forces of France and Spain. At the Peace of Utrecht
in 1715, and again at the Peace of Seville in 1720, after another ineffectual
siege (1727), the Spaniards had to submit to leaving Gibraltar in foreign
hands. The last great siege of Gibraltar extended from 1779 to 1788, and
bad tbe same result, in spite of the floating batteries invented by the
Frenchman D'ilreon, which, though described as Hncombustible and unsink-
able% were destroyed by the British artillery. Since the Peace of Ver-
sailles (1768) Great Britain's claim to Gibraltar has not been questioned.
The older Fortifications, mainly mounted with guns of a fome-
what antiquated pattern, include the numerous batteries along the seashore
from the Land Port on the N. to Europa Point on the S., the batteries
on the S. slope above Europa Point, and the subterranean galleries on
the N. fide. The summit of the rock has, however, recently been fortified
with modem guns of the largest calibre, one result of which is that
strangers are no longer allowed to visit the Signal Station and Highest Point.
The Steamers drop their anchors in tbe unsheltered bay at a con-
siderable distance from the town. Passengers are landed by small
boat at the Old Mole^ constructed early in the 14th century. A
new pier has been built for the Algeciras steamers (p. 373). Thenre
we proceed to theS.E. through the Old Molt Oate, past the Market,
and through the inner Waterport Oate, on the site of the wharf
(ataratana , p. 326) of the Moors, to (6 min.) Casemates Squarh.
Watbeport Street, running hence to the S., contains most of
the hotels, the post and telegraph office, and other public buildings.
Along with the street named Jri>^ Town, running parallel on tbe W.,
it forms the focus of business.
Waterport Street ends at Commercial Square, containing the
Exchange (1818), beyond which it is continued by Church Strf^*
In this street, to the left, stands the Roman Catholic CbI?
378 Route 40. GIBRALTAR. GaUerien.
(St. Mary the Crowned), originally a Moorish mosque and rebuilt by
Ferdinand and Isabella in 1502. It was robbed of its treasures of
art in 1704 and now offers little of interest except the Moorish
Court of Oranges. — A little farther on, on the same side, is the
Court of Law, with a pretty garden. To the right, in Cathedral
Square, stands the Anglican Cathedral (Church of the Holy Trinity),
erected in the Moorish style in 1821.
Church Street, in turn, is prolonged by SouTHPoaT Street , in
which, to the right, is the Convent, or residence of the Governor
(Sir Robert Biddulph)^ erected in 1531 as a Franciscan convent In
the garden is a dragon-tree (Dracaena draco), believed to be at least
1000 years old. — The street ends at Southport Qate, erected under
Charles V. Outside the gate, to the left, lies the small Trafalgdr
Cemetery, containing the graves of many of the British who fell at
the battle of Trafalgar (p. 386). To the right are the Ragged Staff
Stairs, where the British under Adm. Rooke landed in 1704.
The *Alameda, beyond the gate, laid out by Governor George
Don (ca. 1814), is one of the chief lions of Gibraltar. Its luxur-
iant sub-tropical vegetation includes gigantic geraniums and he-
liotropes, castor-oil plants, daturas, and daphnes. In the midst of
it lie the Assembly Rooms (p. 374) and a Cafi- Restaurant (band,
see p. 374). Two indiflferent busts commemorate the Duke of
Wellington and General Eliott, the defender of Gibraltar in the
'Great Siege' (p. 377).
To the S.W. of the Alameda lies theKaval Harbour, with the Dock
.Yard, founded in the 17th cent and recently much enlarged. The
harbour is protected by the long New Mole, begun in 1620 and
much lengthened in 1851. Additional harbour-works have been
built quite lately. Steep streets ascend from the New Mole Parade
through the suburb of Rosia to the Europa Main Road.
The *£nropa Main Bead , beginning at Prince Edward's Gate
at the N.£. corner of the Alameda, ascends gently along the W.
slope of the rock, between villas and gardens, to the point of view
named The Mount. It then runs past the Naval Hospital and above
the Buena Vista Barracks to (l'/2 M.) Europa Pointy the S. extrem-
ity of the peninsula, hollowed out by the waves. A large Light-
house was erected here in 1841 on the site of the once much fre-
quented sanctuary of the Virgen de Europa. — The road now turns
to the N.E., affording a fine view of the Mediterranean coast of Spain,
dominated by the Sierra de Estepona (p. 372), and passes the
Govebnor's Cottage, or summer-villa of the Governor. Farther
on, amid the cliffs, is the Morikeys^ Cave, where the vertical fall
of the rocks prevents the prolongation of the road to Catalan Bay
(p. 380).
The so-called ^Galleries form the second great sight of Gibraltar.
They consist of a series of passages tunnelled through the living rock
he N. face of the peninsula during the 'Great Siege' (1782).
Moorish Ca$(U. GIBRALTAR. 40, Route. 379
They are said to haire been suggested by a Sergeant Inee and were
constructed under the care ot Lieut, Evolethy R.E. We ascend from
Waterport St. through Bell Lane , which leads to the E. opposite
the post-office, and then mount, partly by flights of steps, to (lOmin.)
the Artillery BarraekSj which lie to the left below the Moorish
Castle (see below). Here we inscribe our names in a book and have
a soldier assigned as guide (fee 1-2 p.). Visitors are generally
shown part of the Lower or Vnion OalUry (entrance 690 ft. above
the sea), commanding views of the bay and the Mediterranean coast.
The visit takes about Y2 h^- Wraps are desirable, as the galleries
are damp and chilly.
The Moorish Castle, above the Artillery Barracks, was begun
by Tdrik in 713 (p. 377) and finished in 742. The battered Torre
del Homenaje contains some interesting apartments, and the view
from the platform is very fine. — Adjoining the ramparts of the
castle is the CivU Priton, Farther to the S. is the Castle Tank, a
large reservoir for the water from the North Front (see below).
A visit to the Signal Station (1295 ft.) , the second-highest
point on the rock , where all vessels entering the straits are an-
nounced to Gibraltar, is now limited to British subjects armed with
a permission from the Governor's Oi'flce(comp. p. 377). The ♦View
embraces the entire Bay of Gibraltar , with the green Gampo de
Gibraltar on the N. and the Sierra de los Gaznles on the W. ; the
coast of Morocco from the Sierra Bullones and Geuta to the Bay of
Tangiers and Cape Spartel; and the coast of the Mediterranean to
the N.E., with the Sierra Nevada and the valleys of the Alpujarras.
— A similar view is obtained from 0^Hara*8 Tower (1360 ft.), to
the S. (inaccessible), named after a ruined tower, said to have been
built during the 'Great Siege' by Gen. O'flara to observe the Spanish
fleet in the harbour of Cadiz (!).
St. Michael's Cave is in that part of the rock now closed to the
public. It is one of the numerous stalactite caverns in the heart of
the rock, anciently used either as dwellings or as graves, and often
containing the bones of prehistoric animals. The entrance (1080 ft.
above the sea) is on a zigzag path descending from the ridge
towards the S. The interior contains a large hall, 230 ft. long
and 65 ft. high, which cannot be properly seen without torches and
Bengal fire.
To the N.E. of Casemates Square (p. 377) is the Land Port or
Spanish Gate, which is adjoined by strong fortifications and is closed
at sunset, after gunfire (see p. 374). Outside it is the so-called
Inundation, an area that can be put under water if desirable for
purposes of defence. Beyond this lies the North Front, or British
part of the isthmus , lying at the foot of the vertical N. face of the
rock. The Devil's Tower Road runs hence to the S.E., passing (left)
ihe Jewish, Roman Catholic, and Protestant Cemeteries, tothe(V2^0
DeviVs Tower, an old watch-tower, probably built by the Genoese.
380 Route 40. GIBRALTAR.
The road then turns to the right (S.) and leads to (1/2 M.) Catalan
Bay, where the steep sandy side of the rock barely leaves room for
the flshing-hamlet of Caleta, which is often exposed to danger from
stones falling from ahoTO. With the visit to this bay may be conveni-
ently combined an excursion to La Linea de la Concepci6n, a town
(30,000 inhab.) on the Spanish frontier, 1 ^2^. from Gibraltar, beyond
the neutral zone (p. 376). During the siege of 1727 the Spaniards took
advantage of an armistice to construct an entrenchment between the
Bay and the Mediterranean, defended at the W. end by the Castillo
dt San Felipe and at the E. by the Ca$tillo de Santa Barbara, In 1810,
however, these works were razed by the British at the request of the
Spaniards themselves, as the Spanish army under BaUeateros^ which
had taken refuge under the guns of Gibraltar, feared that they might
be taken advantage of by the French, La Linea is thus now an un-
defended town, inhabited mainly by labourers and smugglers.
Among the former are a few Chinese from the Philippine Islands,
who come hither after serving criminal sentences at Ceuta and
Melilla. The market of Gibraltar is supplied from the Vegetaiile Oar-
dens of La Linea, which extend on the N. to the Sierra Carbonera.
From La Linea we may walk or drive along the beacb, enjoying all
the way a magnificent view of the Bock, to (IV2 M.) Campamento^ a
village of labourers and smugglers, and also a sea-bathing resort, con-
taining several handsome villas. It has a small eucalyptas-grove. About
V2 M. farther is Futnte Mayorga or Orange Orove, the port of S. Boque.
— A road also connects La Linea with (3 K.) San Roque (p. 373).
41. From Oibraltar to Cadiz vift Tangier.
The steamer Joaquin del Piilago^ of the Campania TraeatUmtica^
leaves Gibraltar every Tues., Thurs., and Sat. at 7 a.m. for Tangier, and
goes on thence at 10.30 a.m. to Cadiz^ which it reaches at 5.30 p.m. It
starts for the return-journey on Hon., Wed., and Friday. — Communication
with Tangier (ca. 40 M., in 2Vs hrs.) is also maintained by small Local
Boats (used chiefly for bringing cattle from Tangier). The local boats ply
daily, except Frid. (first-class fare by the English steamers 10 p., return
fare 15 p., second-class 5 p. ; by the Spanish steamers 15 p.). Their offices
in Tangier are below the Small Soceo. The hours of starting are very
irregular. — Tariff for landing and embarking at Gibraltar, see p. 374; at
Tangier, see p. 381 ; at Cadiz, see p. 434.
The excursion to Tangier is well worth making in good weather for
its charming views of sea and land alone, to say nothing of the highly
interesting glimpse it affords of the world of the Moslem and the Moor.
It also throws a side light on the manners and customs of Spain itself,
revealing the Moorish origin of many traits of the Andalusian and other
Spaniards.
Oibraltar, see p. 373. — The steamer traverses the Bay of
Gibraltar towards the S.W. To the right is the Punta Camero
(p. 375) ; to the left rises the limestone mass of the ^Sierra BuUone$
or Djebel Miisa (*hlll of Musa'; 2710 ft.), the African TiUar of
Hercules^ which, like Gibraltar itself, commemorates one of the
Moorish conquerors of Spain (comp. p. 377). On the treeless coast
of Andalusia, which is enlivened only by the numerous ancient
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TANGIER. 41. Route. 381
watch-towers (atdLayaa), appears the town of TaHfCj at the land-
ward end of a small Isthmus, which lies at the hase of the PurUa
Marroquij the southernmost point of the mainland of Europe (86° N.
lat.). The opposite coast of Africa is occupied hy the Angera, a
wild tribe of Berbers, nominally subject to the Sultan of Morocco.
In the distance appear the white houses of Tangier, in the middle
of a beautifully curved bay, bounded on the E. by Cape Malabata.
Tangier. -^ ArriTal, A now Pier has recently been built, by which
the landing is much facilitated. The Ctutotn Home Examination is lenient,
and a passport is not required.
Hotels. *H6tbl Gontimkktal (PI. 0, D, 3, 4), in a quiet aituation a
little to the N. Ot the harbour, with a fine view of the sea, English
management, pens, from iO«.; *HdT. Villa f>B Fkaitok, commandingly
fituated on the hill above the Socco de Barra (PI. A, 5) , 1 H. from the
harbour, recommended for a stay, pens, from 8«. — Less pretending:
*HdT. Kkw Tosk, on the beaeh ontaide the town (PI. 0, D, 6), 1/2 M. to the
S. of the harbour, with a small garden, pens, from 6«.; *HdT. Univebsal
(near the last), unpretending, pens. 6-6*.; Hot. Golok, behind :the Ghreat
Mosque, near the British Consulate (PL G,5), good cuitine, recommended
in winter, pens, from St.; Hot. Bbistol, in the Small Socco, near flie
British Post Office •, Tbiqo, in the middle of the town ; Maolkan, in the
Socco de Barra, these two primitive. — jRsAfion Vc^erUina (German), on the
Fea Road (comp. PI. A, 5, 6), V« M. from the Socco de Barra, pens. 6-9#. —
Wine is not included in the above charges. Payment is expected in British
or Spanish money at the current rate of exchange.
Oafes. French Caji^ in the Small Socco (PI. B, C, 4, 6), next door to
the British Post Office. There are several Arab Coffee Hotuetf mostly in the
hands of the guides, who arrange evening entertainments for the tourist,
with invited guests and Moorish musicians. On these occasions a charge
of 1 p. is made for a cup of Turkish coffee.
Post Offices. The British^ French, and Spanish Offices are all in the
Small Socco (PI. B, G, 4, 5). — Telegraph Offices. BrUith Telegraph Office^
on the way to the Marshan (PI. A, 3, 2); Bpanish Telegraph Office (PK G, 4),
near the Small Socco.
Banks. Comptoir National SEscompte (PI. G, 4), to the K. of the Small
Socco ; ffHsmer A JoacMmssohn , near the Small Socco (Fuente Nueva) ;
irahon(P\. B, 5), to the S. of the main street; Parienie^ in the street lead-
ing from the main street to the U. S. Gonsulate General.
Oriental Bazaars. Joseph Sadehy opposite the Roman Gatholic Ghurch
(PI. B, 5); Bensakin 7., near the Bab de Fez (PI. A, 5); Bensakin II., in the
middle of the town; Oriental Bazaar^ in the main street, opposite the Great
Mosque. Kot more than half the price demanded should ever be offered.
Photographs. Cavitta, next door to the British Gonsulate (PL B, 5);
Macleod A Brash^ near the Small Socco.
Guides, not indispensable in the town, B-lOp. per day (careful bar-
gaining necessary).
Saddle Horses and Mules. Peter Saceone^ at the Bristol Hotel (see
above), 3 p. per half-day, 5-7 p. per day; Pedro, in the Socco de Barra,
adjoining the German Embassy; Merghi^ on the way to the beach. —
Donkeys may be hired in the Soceo de Barra, 1V«-1V« P- Per ^^7-> ^*tb
driver 27« p.
Baths at the hotels. — Sea Baths (PI. 0, D, 6). DOioias de la Playa,
Paraiso de la Playa^ open from May to Oct., bath 25 c, with costume 50 c.
Poor Spanish cafes-restaurants are attached to the baths. The beach is
excellent.
British Legation {Sir Arthur Nicholson; PI. G, 5), outside the to^
near the Hotel Villa de France. — U. S. Consulate General {JFr
382 Route 41. TANGIER. From Oibraltar
C. Partridge f PI. B, 5), in the S. pari of the town. — Britiah Consulate
{Herbert E. White; PI. B, 6), to the S.E. of the Great Mosqne.
English Ohiireh Berviee on Snn. at 10 a.m., daring the winter and the
early spring months, in the handsome new EngUah Church above the Socco
de Barra (Fl. A, 5). Presbyterian Service in the chapel near the road
leading from the Socco de Barra to the beach. — Spanish Boman Oatholie
Ohnrch (PI. B, 5), in the main street.
EngUsh Shysieiaii. Dr. />. 0. Smith, Villa Valentine (see p. 381).
Spanish Theatre, pear the American Consulate General (PI. B, 6), per-
formances in winter only. — Horse Kaoes in spring and summer in the
Bnbana valley (p. 385). — Display of *Arab Horsemanship or ''Fankuies'
(Lddb el Barood) on Mohammedan festivals at the Boceo de Banra or the
Marshan. — The Sport in the vicinity of Tangier includes pig-sticking,
fox-hunting, and the shooting of partridges, woodcocks, snipe, and hare.
Steamers. To London by the Forwood Co.y every 3 weeks (8i.); to
Marseilles by the French Packet every fortnieht (100 Ar.)) to Hamburg by
the Woermann Line twice a month (8 days ; 200 Jf)\ to Brake and Hamburg
via Lisbon and Oporto, by the Oldenburg A Portuguese Co,, once a month \
to Barcelona and Genoa by the Sloman Line,
Ohief Attractions (two days). 1st Day. Morning: Main Street and Smedl
Socco (p. 383); Socco de Barra (p. 384); Marshan (p. 884h KaOta (p. 384).
Afternoon : Walk on the BeaOi (p. 385). — 2nd Day. Excursion to Cape
Spartel and the QroUo of Hercules. — r Strangers should not attempt to enter
the mosques or approach the tombs of Mohammedan saints, and they should
avoid the side>streets after dusk.
Tangier or Tangiera, Arab. Tandja, the capital of the Moroccan
province of Hadbatj the chief commercial town of Morocco, and the
seat of the representatives of the Great Powers, is picturesquely
situated on the hilly W. margin of the shallow, semicircular Bay of
Tangiers, not far from the site of the ancient Roman Tingis (p. B85).
Pop. 12,000. The white houses of the town are surrounded by a
wall with old gates and towers, and on the highest point, on the
edge of the Marshan (p. 884), rises the Ka^a or Kasaba (citadel).
In spite of the copious stream of Spanish and other European im-
migrants, who now form about one-third of the population, Tangier
still presents a more characteristic picture of an Oriental town than
almost any other seaport on the N. coast of Africa. Its narrow and
uneven streets hardly afford room for the noisy crowds and heavy-
laden asses, and are entirely Impassable for anything on wheels.
The one-storied houses of the Moors, overtopped here and there by
a slender minaret , have each a small interior court and present
nothing but a bare and windowless wall to the street ; but there are
now a great number of houses built by Europeans and Jews in the
Spanish style, with two or more stories. After the early morning
call of the Muezzin (p. 310) the whole place is as busy as a swarm
of bees and as variegated as a kaleidoscope. The solemn Moors,
stalking along in white or coloured burnous, yellow slippers,
and brilliant turban or fez, are elbowed by equally swarthy Jews
of Morocco in black caftan and fez; while wild-eyed Kabyles, the
descendants of the old Rifflan Pirates, from the Berber villages of
the neighbourhood, mingle with negro-slaves from the interior of
*he Dark Continent. A few Arab sects wear short pig-tails like
to CadU. TANGIER. 41, Route. 383
those of the Spanish bull-fighters. Garavans of camels from Fez,
Morocco, etc., may be seen on Sun. in the Socco de Barra (p. 384).
Besides the three market-places, the harbour is also a scene of
great liyellness, especially in the morning. Cattle, poultry, game,
and eggs for Gibraltar are almost always being embarked} the oxen
are unceremoniously and cruelly swung on board by ropes attached
to their horns. Here, as in the streets, every operation is accom-
panied,by yelling and quarrelling.
The filthiness of the streets is a surprize even to the traveller
who has just quitted Spain. The health of the inhabitants, never-
theless, is on the whole very satisfactory, thanks to the advantages
of an almost unequalled climate. The prevalent winds all blow
from the ocean, greatly alleviating the heat in the town and on the
heights of the Marshan and Monte (p. 385) to the W. of it, and
bringing frequent showers in the cool season (annual rain -fall
36 inches). Snow and frost are almost unknown.
Hiitory. Tingis^ probably one of the earliest settlements on the si raits,
does not appear in history nntil the Roman period. Emp. Claudim made
it a Roman colony, and Emp. Otho combined the K. coast of Africa, under
the name of Hitpania Tingitanu and with Tingis as capital, with the
Spanish province of Beetica (p. 294). In the Christian period the town
shared the vicissitudes of S. Spain and belonged in turn to the Vandals
and the Romans of the Eastern Empire. About the year 700 it fell into the
hands of the Arab MUsa^ and became the capital of Maghrth al-Aktd — , t.e.
the 'extreme W. province' of the Caliphate of Damascus, corresponding to
the modem Morocco. Though the Berber tribes of this district ranked among
the most zealous champions of Islam, they did not long submit to the
rule of the Arabs, but established their independence of Damascus as
early as 741. For a short time afterwards they acknowledged the suzerainty
of the Caliph of Cordova, but for the most part they were engaged either
in threatening on their own account the independence of the Moorish states
of Spain or helping them in their struggles with the Spanish Christians.
From 1471 to 1662 Tangier belonged to Portugal, and during this period its
population wa? lai^ely modified by the immigration of Spanish Jews and
the expulsion of the Moriscoes (p. 248). In 1662 it passed into the hands
of Great Britain, as part of the dowry of the Infanta Catharine of Bra-
ganza, wife of Cnarles II. The weak and unenterprizing British rulers of
the period found it a troublesome and unprofitable possession, and after
several unsuccessful encountera with the Moors, they resigned their pos-
session of Tangier in 1684, having previously destroyed its fortifications
and the long mole, the remains of which are still visible at low water.
Since then the town has belonged uninterruptedly to Morocco. Its present
fortifications, mounted with somewhat antiquated ordnance, were con-
structed by British engineers.
From the landing-place we pass through the B6b al-Marsd, or
Gate of the Port, which is defended by two batteries, into the Main
Stbbbt or Rub des Che^tiens (PI. 0, B, 4, 5), which curves round
the flank of the hill and ascends to the Outer Market (p. 384).
Beyond the Great Mosque, with its handsome portal and Giralda-
like tower, we reach the Small Boceo (PI. B, 0, 4, 5), the business
focus of the town, with the three post-offices mentioned at p. 381
and many shops and caf^s. — Above this inner market-place, to
the left, lie the Spanish Roman CatholiG Church (PI. B, 5) and the
Morocco Ministry of Foreign Affairs.
384 Route 41. TANGIER. From Oihraltar
The street ends at the Bdh el-Dakhl, or Inner Town Gate, be-
yond which lies the Situate of the Blacksmiths, To the left is the
New Market (PI. A, 5), the regular market for meat and vegetables,
which also commnnieates with the Outer Market. — A gate to the
right of the Square of the Blacksmiths leads to the Union Market,
with two long rows of booths and a caravanserai {Fcwlak; PI. A, 4)
on its N.£. side. Issuing by the N. gate, to the left of this fondak,
and then following the town-wall to the right, we pass (left) the
Christian Cemetery (PI. A, 4) and reach the Kasha and the Marshan
(see below).
The Bdb el-Faes, or Outer Town Gate, opposite the Inner Gate
(see above), opens on the Socco de Barra (PI. A, 6), Outer Market,
or Oreat Socco (Arab, svtkh , market), a visit to which on one of
the market-days (Sun. and Thurs. , preferably the former) should
on no account be omitted. On those days the whole of the irre-
gular and uneven space is covered with an indescribable mass
of Oriental humanity. Through the rows of the sellers, many of
whom are closely- veiled and white-robed women ^ press the Tanger-
ines , haggling noisily over every purchase. Smaller groups sur-
round the Jugglers, snake-charmers, and story-tellers. Importunate
beggars thrust their mutilated limbs in the faces of the passers-
by. In the centre of the space is the sanctuary of i^di Makhfij the
patron-saint of the market.
On the N. side of the Socco de Barra is a bridle-path (comp.
PI. A, 5) leading to the W., past the (right) VUla of the Austrian
Minister, to (8/4 M.) the Villa Siiou , now occupied by the Belgian
vice-consul and standing in a beautiful garden (fee to gatekeeper
V2-1 p.)-
At the gate of this villa the path forks. The path in a straight
direction leads to the Bubana Valley and on to the Monte and Cape
Sparta (see p. 385). That diverging to the right sweeps round to
the farther part of the Marshan, the lofty plateau to the N.W. of
the town. Here, between a Berber village, or douSr, and the pre-
cipitous N. or sea-front, lies the largest Mohammedan Cemetery of
Tangier. Visitors are admitted, but should not approach the mourn-
ers at an interment. The part of the Marshan adjoining the town
is occupied by villas, some of which belong to Europeans. On the
margin of the plateau, and in some of the adjoining plots of ground,
are the remains of a few Phoenician Tombs, in the form of rectangles
cut in the living rock and lying from E. to W.
The E. end of the Marshan, about 390 ft. above the town, is
occupied by the Kaiba or Kasaba (Pi. A, B, 2), the citadel of Tan-
gier, erected in the Idth cent, and now consisting of an extensive
group of dilapidated and unimposing buildings. The Upper ICcLsba
Gate (PI. A, 2) leads to the Naham Battery (PI. A, 1), which com-
mands a magnificent view of the Bay of Tangier and the Straits of
Gibraltar (fee 50 c). A little lower down are i Mosque, the Palace
io Cadiz. TANGIER. 4/. fioate. 385
of the Sultan, the Residence of the Oovemor (Pasha or Cadi), and
several Qovemment BuUdinga (comp. PI. A, B, 2, 3). Some of the
latter abut on a large court, adorned with wood-carvings and
mosaics. The Pasha may occasionally be seen administering justice
at the entrance of his palace. Strangers may generally obtain per-
mission to visit the Oovernment Prison^ in which the male prisoners
are herded together without distinction and are occupied in basket-
weaving and other similar employments. There is a small prison
for women close by. A visit may also be paid to the Treasury, the
beautiful rooms of which, resembling those of the Alhambra, are
of very early date (fee 1 p.). The Harem of the Paeha is fitted up
in a similar style and may be visited by ladies, who should not
omit to provide themselves with sweetmeats or other small presents
for the inmates (fee of 1 p. to the porteress). — From the E. Oate
of ihe Kcuba (PI. B, 2) a steep footpath descends to the town, of
the white houses of which , as well as of the beach, it soon offers
an unexpected and beautiful *View.
BxoOKsioNs. At low tide the sandy beach to tUo S.E. of the town
affords an excellent opportunity for a ride. Beyond the Bathing Places
(p. 381) we may go on to (»/4-l hr.) the Roman Bridge over the little river
Oaltres and beyond this to the Buins of Tingis (Arab. Tandja Bdlia)^
which now lie at some distance from the sea. The old Roman water
gate is still in fair preservation. From Tingis we may sweep round to
the N. to the Torre Blandllo, an old Moorish battery on Cape Maldbata
(p. 3:1), a ride of ^^If'S^j^ hrs. from Tangier. — Another pleasant bridle
route leads inland (S.W.) from the beach, passing between orange-groves,
to the (IV4 hr.) ylllage of a^^ani. Farther on it joins the Fez Road^ by
which we may return to the Outer Market and the Upper Town Gate.
— The highly attractive *Szounion to Oape Spartel takes almost a whole
day (mule 5 p. ; mule-driver or guide, as well as luncheon, desirable).
We ride to the Villa Sixou fp. 384) either vi& the Harshan or Yi& the
Outer Harked, and then descend into the Bv^fM Valley^ which is watered
by the insignificant Jew River (*U hr. to the W. of Tangier). From here
we may ascend direct to the top of the Djehel Keibir (1070 ft.), which is
overgrown with cistns, heaths, and other shrubs. Or (better) we may
turn to the right and visit the Monte^ a summer-colony of charming vil-
las overlooking the sea, whence we regain the direct route in ^/\ hr.
On both routes we enjoy, in clear weather, charming > views of the sea^
glancing under constantly varying lights and shaduwji, and of the Spanish
coast with Gape Trafalgar (p. Sw). The main route finally descends to
the (S'/a-S hrs. from Tangier) Lighthouse on the W. margin of Cape SparteL
the P/'omontorium Ampelusia of the ancients and the N.W. extremity or
Africa. The lighthouse was constructed and is maintained by the great
maritime powers \ its light is visible for 26 nautical miles. It commands
a fine view of the ocean. Bavarian beer and light refreshments may be
obtained from the keeper. — We may now ride along the shore for
3/4 hr. more to the Grotto of Hercules^ in which excellent grindstones and
mill-stones have been quarried from time immemorial. Or, on the way
back to Tangier, we may diverge from the Bubana Valley to visit the
Olive Orcve between the Jew Biver and the Fez Boad (see above).
The excursions to Tetuan and other places in the interior of Morocco
require a military escort, and enquiry must previously be made at the
traveller's consulate or embassy. The lack of roads, bridges, and inns
necessitates costly preparations in the shape of tenta, provisions, guides,
pack-horses, and so on.
Babdbkbr^b Spain. 25
386 Route 42. OSUNA.
VoTAOB TO Cadiz. The steamer steeis to the N.W. on leaving
the Bay of Tangier and soon approaches the Spanish coast, from
which the mountains gradually recede. To the right, at the N.W.
end of the shallow Bay of Barbate^ rises Cape Trafalgar, the PrO"
montorium JvnonU of the Romans and the Tarafal^Qhdr ('cape of
the cave') of the Moors. It is surmounted by a lofty and conspicuous
lighthouse, the light of which has a range of 19 sea-miles. Here,
at the W. entrance of the straits , the British fleet under Nelson
defeated the united French and Spanish fleets under ViUeneuve and
Oravina on Oct. 2l8t, 1806, paying for its victory with the loss of
its famous admiral. The British fleet consisted of 27 ships of the
line, 4 frigates, and 2 smaller vessels, the Franco*Spanish fleet of
33 ships of the line, 5 frigates, and 2 brigs.
Farther along the sandy coast are the small town of CorUl, the
insignificant Cape Roche, the mouth of the Canal de Saneti Petri,
and the l$la de Le6n, with San Fernando (p. 433). At last the lofty
quays and white hotlses of Cadiz rise from the sea, overtopped by
the New Cathedral. The steamer skirts the W. side of the penin-
sula on which the town lies, passes to the W. of Fort Si^asti&n
(p. 440), than steers to the N.E., passes the reefs of Los Cochinos
and Las Puercas (p. 436), and enters the roomy bay of CadU (p. 434).
42. From Bobadilla to Utrera (Seville^ Cadiz)
Yi& La Eoda and Marchena.
84 M. Bailwat (one passenger-train daily) in 5 lirs. (fares 23 p. 55,
17 p. 25, 10 p. 90 c); to BepUU, ;103 M., in BV* hrs. (fares 27 p., 19 p. 85,
12 p. 45 c.) ; to Cadiz, 160 M., in 9V* hrs. (fares 38 p. 30 c, 28 p., 17 p. 85 c).
The section between Marchena and Utrera is also traversed by the trains
of the direct line from Cordova to Cadiz (p. 819). — Railway-restaurants
at Bobadilla and Utrern.
This railway has litUe scenic interest, but is of importance as the
shortest link between S.E. Andalusia (Qranada, Malaga) and Seville and
Cadiz. There Is a through first-class carriage from Bobadilla to Seville,
but other passengers have to change at La Boda. Those for Cadiz change
also at Utrera.
From Bobadilla to (15 M.) La ttoda, see p. 320. — The railway
runs towards the W. 22V2 M. Pedrera (1510 ft.) is the highest point
of the line. — 301/2 M. Aguadulce has its name from a spring of
'sweet water', most of the water in this region being brackish.
From Aguadulce a road leads to the K.E. to (9 M.) Ettepa, the Aatapa
of the Iberians, which was captured by Scipio in B. C. 207, the inhab-
itants, man, woman, and child, preferring death in the flames to slavery.
We cross the Rio Blanco^ an affluent of the Genii.' — 3772 M.
Osuna, a town of 18,000 iuhab., is pleasantly situated on a Mil
rising over a fertile, corn- growing plain. It was the Urao of the
Romans and the Oxuna of the Moors, and since 1562 it has been
the seat of the Dukes of Osuna. The Romans also called it Oemina
Vrbanorum, because it was garrisoned by two legions, both from
the city of Rome. The Golbgiata, dating from 1634, possesses a
4]
1^. .,
%N/^v?
fe:%# k:- ^-"^^ ■'/;:. •'•?>*tM'' ■:::.- ■•<!^.i
SEVILLE. 43. BouU. 387
Une Oruciflxion by Ribera. In the sacristy is a Christ by MoraUa^
and in the sagrario are three early-German paintings, mistakenly
assigned to Altreeht Durer. The interesting crypt contains the
tombs of the Osana family.
The wide plain is bounded on the N. by the Sierra Morena, on
the S. by the Serrania de Ronda (p. 369). Near (641/2 M.) Los
Ojudos the train crosses the SaUtdOy a tributary of the Corbones.
A little farther on we cross a small salt lake and the Corbones itself.
57 M. Karchena, the junction of the direct railway from Cor-
dova to Cadiz (p. 319). The loftily-situated old town (13,800 inhab.),
still partly girdled by crumbling walls, has a Palace of the Duke of
Arcos (Ponce de Leon). The church of San Juan contains a cedar-
wood coro and a good Flemish high-altar (ca. 1500)t •
61 1/2 M. Parados; 66 M. Arafial. The line runs to the S.W.,
crossing the Quadaira and traversing thickets of scrub-palm ettoes
(p. 227). — From (74 M.) Empalme de Mor6n the Siena Nevada is
visible in very clear weather.
A Branch Rail w at ('A tr. •, fares 2 p. 75 c, 2 p„ 1 p. 35 c.) runs from
Empalme to (2 M ) Coronil and (12 M.) Mordn de la Frontera (Fonda de
la Estacidn; Fonda Nueva)^ the ancient Arumi^ a finely situated town
(13,500 inhab.), on the right bank of the Guadaira and at the foot of the
Sierra de Mordn. It possesses the ruins of a huge Moorish Cattle and
large Chalk and Marble Quarriet. The 'Tortas de Mor6n\ a kind of cake,
enjoy a wide reputation.
We traverse a plain , overgrown with cactus , aloes, and dwarf
palms. — 84 M. XJtrera^ and thence to Seville and Cadi%j see R. 45b.
43. Seville.
Xailway Stations. 1. Estacidn de Cdrddba (PI. D, 5,6-, restaurant), in
the Barrio de los Humeros, to the W. of the city and near the Guadal-
quivir, for the trains to Cordova, Alcazar, and Madrid (B. 33), to Mdrida via
Tocina (R. 49), and to Huelva (E. 44). — 2. Estacidn. de Cadit (PI. G,. 1;
restaurant), to the S.E., on the Prado de San Sebastian, for the line to
Cadiz (B. 45b) and the trains to AlcaU de Guadaira and Carmona (p. 422). —
At both stations the trains are met by the omnibuses of the larger hotels
and by cabs (one horse cab for 1-2 pers. 1 p., each article of luggage
^U-i p. \ comp. p. 38S). No driving is allowed in Seville on Kaundy Thurs-
aay or Good Friday, the traveller has then to walk and engage a porter
(moto de cordel).
Steamers ply from Seville to San Liicar de Barrameda (p. 426 •, starting
twice weekly from the Tower of Gold), and also to most other Spanish
ports, Marseilles, England, Belgium. Hamburg, etc. "— A small local boat
runs daily to and from Coria (p. 425), starting at the Mnelfe Barranco
del Bio.
Hotels (comp. p. xx). •Hotel de Madrid (PI. a; D, 4), Calle de Men-
dez Nunez, at the corner of the Plaza del Paciflco, with a dependance
(PI. bj D, 4), a large court with palms, a fine dining-hall in the Mud^jar
style, and baths ; pens, from I2V2 p. (in spring from 16 p.). *HdT. de Pasis
(PI. c; D, 4), Plaza delPacifico, with a well-furnished dependance (PI. d;
D, 4), on theN.W. side of the square, well managed, with good cuisine and
choice of table-wines ; pens, from 10 p. These two are hotels of the first
order. — Less pretending : •H6t. de Boma (PI. e ; D, 4), Plaza del Duque
de la Victoria, pens. 10 p. -, H6t. Eoropa (PI. f ; E, 3), Plaza San Fernando,
pens., from 10 p. — Anqlo-Ahskigan Pension {Frau B/orlman; PI. i, E 4),
25*
388 BouU43. SEVILLE. Caha,
Placa de San Fernando, pens. 8-12 p. — Ommm de HuatpddM (eomp.
p. XX). Penimular^ Plaza San Fernando 20; Fonda Jtvit Maria, Galle
M oratin ; La Prwindana, Calle de Tetuan 12 ; El Citne y Ifew York^ CaUe
de Mendea Vanes 7. — In the Semana Santa (p. 390) and during the Feria
(p. 391) charges are doubled, and accommodation cannot be counted on
unless ordered in advance. The hotels are then all over-crowded, and
those who dislike noise and confusion should look for a private house.
Oafis (comp. p. xxii). *Cafi America, *C. Emperadore*.*C, Centred^
C. CoUny all in the Calle de las Sierpes; C. de BordaOo, Plaza de San
Fernando 20; La Ptrla, Calle de Granada 6. — Confeetionera (^Cori/!terta«>.
Antonio Hernandez^ Galle de las Sierpes 1; Martinet Colorttdo^ Galle de las
Palmas 12 The sugared fruits of Seville are excellent.
Bestaurants feomp. p. xzi\ "Butaurant jSM«o, Galle de las Sierpes
(also pa^leria or pastry-cook); Bl Fasaje de Orientfj^ Calle de las Sierpes 76,
not expensive ; Restaurant Erite^a, see p. 418. — Beer. Certfeceria Jnglesa,
Calle de Campana 6 (PI. D, 4).
Wine Booms (Taverwu), Paeaje de la Magdalena, Calle de Mendez
Nunez, opposite the Hot. Madrid; Pasaje cM Correo^ see above; La* De-
licias. La Bomba, both near the Calle de las Sierpes. Genuine MamamUa
Wine, so named from the MantanWa Real, a kind of rue (Artemisia ffrana-
tentis Boiss.)^ may be had at all these *tavemas\ It is drunk out of tall
and narrow glasses (cafiat, ecSiUcu) to an accompaniment of oysters (ostri-
oneSy ostras), fish, crabs (langostinos), or snails (caracoles) in sauce.
Cabs (stands in the Plazas de San Francisco, del Pacfflco, del Museo,
del Duque de la Victoria, etc.). "With one horse, 1-2 pers. per drive 1 p.,
per hr. 2 p., at night 2 and 3 p. ; 3 4 pers. IVs, 2Vs, 'iVt, &nd 4 p. With
two horses, 1-4 pers., 2, 3, 4, and 5 p. — The night-tares are due from
midnight to sunrise. Small luggage 25 c., each trunk 60 c, if over 65 lbs.
1 p. No charge for lugpage is made on the two-horse cabs, — All fares
are raised or even doubled during the Semana Santa and Feria, and
bargaining is advisable. The luggage-tariflf, however, remains unchanged.
TraAwaya. From the Plaza de la Constituci6n (PI E, 3) to the Barrio
de la Macarena (PI. A, 2); to the Puerta del Osario (PI. D,l); to Triana
(PI. F 6); and to the Puerta del Osario and Calzada de la Cruz del Campo
(p. 419). — Cars run from 8 a.m. till 10 or 11 p.m., fare 10 c; to the Cal-
zada 20 c.
Feat and Telegraph Offtce (Correo y TOegrafos; PL D, 4), Calle de
San Acasio 1, at the corner of the Calle de las Sierpes. Poste Bestante
letters are distributed Vs h'> after the arrival of the trains.
Fhysieians. Dr. J. 8. Langdon^ Calle Borcequineria 56 ; Dr. Kaminski,
Galle Amor de Dios 1 (speaks English and French) ; Dr. Eduardo Fedr/ont, Calle
Venera 18 (also surgeon). — Chemist. Farmdcia del Ohbo, CaUe de Tetuan.
Baths (BaSSos). H6UI de Madrid, .see p 387; Qmnta de la Florida, Calle
de la Industria (Barrio de San Bernardo) ; Qontdlez Renddn, Calle de Jesus 12 ;
Outiirrez (iu'ntana, Calle de las Madeja«.
Banks. Bcuilio del Camino y Hefmanos, Galle Francos 48 ; Hijos de P. L.
Buidobro, CaUe de Tarifa 6; MacAndrews d; Co., Calle Guzman el Hueno 2.
Shops. Fans (Ahanicos) and Castanets (Casta&vehs) of olive-wood:
Bazar Sevilkmo. Calle de las Sierpes 48; Oarrido, Ortiz, ^ Co., Calle de
Tetuan 43; Caldwell, Piazza del Pa^ifico 4. — Mantillas: Basilio del Ca-
mino y Hermanos, J. Ortiz A Co., Calle Francos 48 and 23. — Gditabs:
Soto y Solares, Calle de Cerrajeria7. — Gloves: Hipdlito Oely, CaUe de las
Sierpes 34. — Photogbaphs : JvUo Beauehy, Calle de Bioja 24; Karl Schlatter,
Galle de G^nova 4 (also lithographs). — Flo webs: J. P. Martini Bijos,
Calle de las Sierpes 49.
Booksellers. Juan AfUonio Fi, Tomds Sanz, Calle de las Sierpes 91
and 92; Caldieell, Piazza del Paciaco 4.
Clubs. Circulo de Labradores, CaJle de la.s Sierpes 99 ; (^leniro Mercantil,
same street, 46; Casino MiUtar, same street, 62; Ateneo y Sociedad de Bxeur-
s'onet, same street, 42, with a small archaeological collection; Castno
Sevillano, Plaza del Duque de la Victoria 9. Large balls are given by the
bs in winter. Visitors may be introduced by members.
Places of Amusement. SEVILLE. 43. RouU. 389
Ooninls. British, E. F. Johnglon, Calle de Ouzman el Btieno 2; TJ. S. A.,
Samuel B. Caldwell^ Plaza del Paciflco 4. — Lloyd's Agent, Lecuk^ San
Fernando 6.
Sngliah Ohuroh Service on Sun. forenoon in the Plaza del Mnseo,
entr. by the Calle de San Vicente.
Promenades. The most fashionable promenade and corso of the city
is the Paaeo de las Delicias (PI. H, 3; p. 418), much frequented on the after-
noons of Sun. and holidays by the beflowered beanties of Seville. The
adjoining Parque Maria Luita (PI. H, 2^ p. 418) and the Faseo de Cristina
(PI. G, 3, 4 ; p. 418) are also much frequented in the afternoon. The live-
liest time in summer is 6-8 p.m.
Theatres (comp. p. xxvi). *Teatro de San Fernando (PI. D, E, 4), Calle de
Tetnan, built in 1847, for opera and ballets; places and prices similar to
those of the Teatro Real in Madrid (p. 57). — Teatro de Cervantes (PI. C, 4),
Calle Amor de Dios, in the form of a circus, f(»r dramas and equestrian
performances. — The Teatro del Duqite (PI. C, D, 4), Plaza del Duque de
Ja Victoria, and the Teatro de Eelava (PI. G, 3), a summer-theatre (with
cafe) in the Paseo de la Puerta de Jerez, are both used for earzuelas
(p. 57) and farces ^ the performances at the former are generally on the
'hour'' system (see p. 57).
Places of Amusement, of a characteristic Andalusian description. The
*Sal6n Recreative^ Calle Almirantazgo 7 (PI. F, 3, 4), is carried on expressly
for strangers (adm. 5 p. ; see notice in hotels). OjedcCe Sal6n Cantante^
Calle de las Sierpes 11, an older establishment, furnishes performances
for strangers in a special room (adm. 5 p.), but also has a genuine 'salon
cantante' in a glass-covered court, frequented by the lower classes (adm.
to the floor free, but the visitor is expected to order coffee, manzanilla
wine, or the like; seat in the gallery ]/«?•)• All the performers take
their position upon the stage at the end of the court. Dances and songs are
given sdternately. The Dangbs, invariably illustrating some theme of love,
are generally performed by one person to the music of a guitar, while
the seated chorus marks the time by clapping of hands and encourages the
dancer by cries of arre, corre^ anda! The Songs are always solos, and the
accompanyist is often a real virtuoso on the guitar, still the popular in-
Ktrnmeut of Seville. The songs and dances are an interesting survival of
Old Seville, but the visitor must not pitch his hopes too high. — The
performances in the suburb of Triana (p. 420) are of immemorial antiquity,
but ladies are not advised to frequeut them. This is the home of the
genuine gipsies, known here as Flamencos^ and they have preserved many
of their characteristic, mainly Orient al dances and songs. The Cantes
Flamencos usually consist of three or lour lines {coplas, couplets) and are
known under various names, snch' as soleds^ tereerilku^ tonds^ liviancu,
seguidiUaSy polos ^ eanas^ carceleras^ martinetes^ deblas^ triadas^ and coplas
de alio. They are composed in the gipsy-Spanish dialect of Andalusia, and
show many traces of the wanderings of the gipsy race from their original
.seat in the Hiodu-Eush through Asia Minor and Greece to all parts of
Europe. A few words will suffice : gachd^ man \ gacM^ woman ; dt6^, deha^
God; moto, guita^ pam^, money; ducas^ great sorrow; ehwigo^ evil; chald,
mad ; currelai-y to work ; una sembrada^ the same as una salada (see p. 295) ;
salero, a cry of encouragement tu be joyous and lively (comp. p. 295).
Another point of interest is the confusion in pronunciation of b and v,
/ and r, y and W, z and c Cceeear'). Sevilla is thus usually pronounced
Zebiya. — A large number of the Cantes Flamencos are given in the Roman-
ceros of Femdn. Caballero (p. 396), FmiUo La/uente Alcantara^ and Rodrigo
Marin, and in the collection of JDemo/lo (Sevilla, 1881; 1 p.).
Ball Ring iPlaza de Toros; PI. F, 4,5), an imposing building erected
in 1870, with a diameter of 220 ft. and room for 14,000 spectators. Cel-
ebrated Corridas (p. xxvii) take place on Easter Sunday (Djomingo de Re-
surrecquin) and during the Feria (p. 391).
Horse Bacet take place in April and "Soy. in the BipMromo (p. 418).
990 Route 48, SEVILLE. Chureh Festivals.
in the Lkmo* de Tdbiada^ to which stMmen then ply from the €K)Iden
Tower (p. 418).
Bicyele Olnb ( Velos Club) in the Plata, at the end of the Paseo de laa
IHliciat (p. 418). ■
The Church TettiTala of Seville are among the most important in Spain.
The celebrations of the Semana Santa (Holy Week) still attract crowds
of strangers, though they have lost much of their former brilliancy. A
characteristic feature is seen in the magnificent *Pbocks8IOK8 (Patot) of
THB BxLioiODS BsoTHXSHOODt (Co/racUot)^ which bear profusely adorned
statnea of saints (ImAgina) through the streets in litters illuminated with
a multitude of candles. In front march the gendarmes and so-called
'Bomans^ followed by the masked members of the brotherhoods, white-
robed girls, members of the town-council, and musicians.* The proces-
sions follow the narrow CaUe de leu Sierpes (p. 409) to the Plaza de la
Conttitudfyi (p. 408), where the 8^or Alcalde Presidenley or Mayor of the city,
is greeted as he stands on a platform in front of the city-hall. They then
proceed through the Calle de 04nova to the Cathedralj the dusky recesses
of which offer a strange appearance when they are lit up by the flicker-
ing candle-light of the passing procession. (At present, however, they
pass round the cathedral instead of through it.) Beyond tne cathedral the
processions pass the Qiralda (p. 400) and traverse the Cailee de Placentines^
Francos^ and Culebrae^ the Plaza San Salvador^ and the Calks de la Cuna
and <fe Cerrtv'eria. The first procession takes place on Pahn Sunday (Do-
mingo de Ramae), and others on Wednesday^ Maundy Thursday, and Oood
Friday^ all late in the afternoon (por la tarde). There is also an early
morning (de madrugada) procession on Oood Friday. — The best point of
view is the grand stand erected in front of the city-hall (seat for all four
days 10 p.). Single seats at different parts of the route may be obtained
for 1 p. per day or 3^/« p. for the series. Those who can bear a little
fatigue may easily see everything from the curb-stone.
The following celebrations within the cathedral lose much of their
effect at present through the scaffolding necessitated by the fall of the
dome (p. 403). — Palm Sunday. Church Procession in the morning; con-
secration of palms and olive-branches. — Tuesday and Wednesdat. Vocal
Passion music. On Wed., at 10 a.m., the Veil of the Tetnple (*Velo Blanco")
is rent in twain, with an accompaniment of thunder. At 9 p.m the 1ft-
zerere of Eslava (p. 402) is performed in the capilla mayor, followed by a
procession bearing the Sacrament to the Chapel of the Sagrario (p. 406).
— On Maundt Thuksdat, at 6.80 a.m., takes place the Consecrcdion of the
(HI (Santos Olios)^ in presence of the Cathedral Chaipter, the Town Council,
the University, and other dignitaries. Procession with the Sacrament to
the Monumento (p. 404). The Washing of Feet takes place at 8 p.m. iii the
transept, opposite the choir. The Completas and TinM>las are then sung
till 10 p.m., after which a second performance is given of Eslava^s Miserere.
— OooD Fbidat. Passion Sermon at 6am.) Horas and OJlcios at 7 a.m.;
Tiniebhss in the afternoon in presence of the Town Council. — Satukdat
(Sdbado Santo). At 7 a.m. consecration of the Cirio Pascual, a candle 26 ft.
in length and 770-880 lbs. in weight. The Letanias May ores and the Mau
are then celebrated, and at 10 a.m. the Revelation of the High Altar takes
place through the rending of the Velo Negro, accompanied by the Gloria
in ExceltiSff peals of thunder, and the ringing of all the bells (repique de
campanas). To the W. of the coro burns the celebrated TeneWario,
On the three Easteb Days (Pascua de Resurrecddn)^ in front of the
Puerta de la Came, at the Matadero (p. 419), takes place the Febia del
Bastro, a Lemb Fair^ where lambs (cordeH) are bought for the children,
who lead them about the streets.
The second church-festival of Seville in point of importanee is La
Fiesta del Sahtisiho Cobpus (Corpus Christi), which is also celebrated in
the cathedral. A great Procession takes place at 10 a.m., and there fa a
second in the afternoon, to lay *Sa Mi^estad' on the high-altar. The
curious *Danee of the Sixteen Boys (Seises) in front of the high-altar, an
Fop, CeUlfations. SEVILLE. 4S. Route, 391
imitation of the dance of the Israelites hefore the Aric, ftlso takes place
on this day and on the seven following days. Their fantastic dress
is of the period of Philip III. The fieisea also dance on the three days
of Carnival and on the Fiuta de la Canctpdwn (Oct. 8th) and seven follow*
ing days.
The FiBSTA DE ToDoa los Santos {All Sainit; Nov. Ist) is marked by
a Proeeition (10 a.m.) to the Triun/o (p. 396) and a Te Dewn. On the eve
of All Saints and on All Souls (Nov. 2nd; p. 59) crowds of visitors
repair to the Cemeteries of San Fernando (p. 4lo) and San Joid (Triana ;
p. 420), near which a kind of Feria is held.
On Nov. 23rd a special service is held in the Capilla Real (p. 407).
The Gklebkation of Ghkistuas (La Natividad) is also interesting. At
this season a Fair is held between the Triana Bridge and the Bull Bing.
Popular OelebratioiM. The Mc^oi and Majat of Seville are seen in
all their glory in the Veladas de San Juan and de San Pedro (June 24th
and 29th), celebrated in the Alameda de Hercnles (p. 418), and even more
in the various Bomtriat^ a kind of kermess, in the vicinity of Seville. The
chief Bomerias are tile following :
Whit-Sdndat: Romeria del Rodo in AknofUe. The inhabitants of Triana
appear with a chariot bearing the standard of *Sin'Pecado^ and a gaily-
decorated tabernacle.
Sept. 8th: La Contoladdnde lTtrera(p.i27). Special trains run toUtrera.
Beginxino of Octobeb : Feria de ^tntiponee (p. 421).
On the Sundays op Octobbb the Romeria de Torrijos is held at the
little town of SaUerae (p. 423). Most tourists content themselves with seeing
the retnrn of the ^Bomeros" in Triana.
One of the chief festivals is the •Febia, founded in 1847 and held
from April 18th to April 20th on the Prado de San Sebaetidn (PI. O, 1, 2 ^
p. 419), which still furnishes a charming picture of popular life, though
it has lost some of its most attractive features. The feria is not so much
an annual fair as an outing or festival which the people, high and low,
give to themselves. It should be seen early in the morning and the even-
ing. Every rich family has its own tent, where its members may be said
for the time being to live the life of their patio (p. 394) in public.
Siatrihation of Time. Host of the Chusghbb are closed except in the
morning, but they are open all day in Easter Week. The Cathedral is
always open except from noon till 8.30 p.m. Admission to the parts at
present boarded otf requires the permission of the architect, Joaquin Fer-
nandez (Galle de la Laguna 14 PI. E, 4). There are generally no stated
hours of admission to Pbivatb Houses, Chabitable Institutions, and the
like; and sometimes even the 'silver key' fails to work. Admittance is
always more difficult on a festival, especially during the Semana Santa,
which plays havoc with all those of the visitor s plans that are not con-
nected with the public celebrations. On other occasions the following
::rrangements are generally observed.
*Alcdzar (p. 897), daily, 11-4. Tickets of admission and free passes
for artists are issued at the office on the S. side of the Patio de las Ban-
dcras (middle door). Fee of 1 p. to the attendant who acts as guide.
Archivo General de Indicu^ daily, 11-4 (in summer, 8-11). Students
require a permit from the Ministerio de Ultramar in Madrid.
Ayuntamiento (p. 409), daily, on application ; fee 1 p.
*Casa de Pilaios (p. 410), daily, on application ; fee ^/t-i p.
Fdbriea de Tabacos (p. 419), daily, morning and afternoon (no adm.
between 12 and 2)^ guide Ip., forewoman of each room 20-80 c.
*Giralda (p. 400), daily (60 c): no one allowed to ascend alone.
* Hospital de la Caridad (p. 417), daily-, fee V2-I p.
*Museo Provincial (p. 414), daily, 10-3 (Archaeological Museum on Sni-
till 1p.m. only); fee V«-lpc
PcOacio de Santekno (p. 418), only in the absence of the Infanta,
392 Route 43. SEVILLE. Situation.
gardens may be inspected at any time by those provided with admission
ticket from the ^Jefe de Palacio".
FtrmanaU BxhtbiHom 0/ Picturtt of the ^Sociedad Econ<5mica de Amigos
del Pai8\ Calle de Bioja 25. daily, 10-4; 1 p.
Univertity Library (p. ill), on week-days, 10-3.
Chief Attractions (3 days). l«t Day. Ascent of the QiriOda (p. 400) ;
Cathedral (p. 402); Plaza de la Caastitucidn (p. 408); Plaza de San Fernando
(p. 409); Calle de lae Sierpee (p. 409). — 2nd Day. Alcazar (p. 3U7); Ca$a
de Pilalos (p. 410) ; Caridad (p. 417). — 3rd Day. In the morning, Mu*«um
(p. 414). In the afte>-noon, Pateo de Crutina (p. 418), Paseo de la* Delicicu
(p. 418), aid Par^tie Maria Luua (p. 418).
ScviUe or Sevilla (33 ft. above the sea), a city of 124,300 iuhab.,
the capital of Andalusia and of the piovlnce of Seville, the seat of
a Captain- General, an Archbishop, and a university, lies in a wide
plain on the banks of the tawny Qaadalquioir^ one of the two chief
rivers of S. Spain. The 'Great River' (p. 30"2) des^^ribes a curve
round the W. side of the city and parts it from the S.W. suburb of
Tfvina. About 3 M. to the W. stretches a range of low hills, which
now bear a numbdr of villages, while at their bise lie the ancient
Roman towns of Italica (p. 421) and Coria (p. 425). In the remote
distance, to the N.W., appear the outliers of the Sierra Morena,
As its site is perfectly flat and almost destitute of natural pictur-
esqueness, Seville would hardly justify the old saying ^Qaitn no ha
vi^to Seviila no ha vitto maravUlc^ , were it not that it combines
the peculiarities of a harbour-town with the exuberant fertility of
a southern landscape, and joins a present, full of rich, sprightly, and
harmonious Ufe, to an abundance of artistic monuments indicative of
a brilliant past. In Dante's inferno' (xxvi, 110) Odysseus mentions
Seviila and Ceuta alone as witnessed by him in passing the straits
of Hercules: ''Dalla man deslra mi lasciai SihiUaj Dal'' altra gia
m'avea lasciata 8etta\ Mariani, the historian (16th cent.), describes
Seville as a ^ciudad vaga y llena de prvnores y grand^zas^ noble y
rica, fuerte por las murallas, por las armas y genie que tient.
Seville is among the few towns of Spain that thrive without
artiflcial stimulation. '•La Tierra de Maria Santi8ima\ as the Sevillians
proudly call the surrounding district, produces admirable olives,
wine, oranges, cork, and grain. Roses blossom throughout the entire
winter, and the hyacinth and crocus appear as early as January.
Although Seville lies 60 M. from the bar at San Lticar (p. 426),
the fall of the Guailalquivir is so slight, that the flood-tide (la marea;
here generally known as- Uu aguas vivas) brings the salt-water a
long way up the river and is perceptible in its effects at the plateau
of Alcald dtl Rioj 10-12 M. above Seville, while the ebb (las aguas
muerlas) afreets the level of the river at La Algaha^ 6 M. farther up.
The highest tide rises nearly 6 ft. above the mean level, while the
ebb sinks fully 3 ft. below it. The navigation of the winding river
has of late been much improved by dredging and by the cutting of
channels through the larger islands. Sea-going vessels of moderate
^ can thus now reach Seville itself, and their loads can he directly
Life. SEVILLE. 43. Route, 393
transfeired to the railway-waggons on the qnay (muelU), The town
combines the advantages of a seaport with those of an inland city,
situated on the great commercial highway between Cadiz and the N.,
the Via Augusta of the ancients (p. 437).
The city, so fortunate in all other respects, is exposed almost
every winter to disastrous inundations, which are at their worst
when the. water of the Acenidan (p. 242) are brought by a strong
S.W. wind into opposition to the tidal movement The ordinary
avenida), 6-15 ft. high, do not surmount the river-banks, but those
above this height (some as high as 25 ft) overpower embankments
and sluices, pour through the city in the form of 'riadas\ and often
undermine and destroy a number of houses. This danger is in-
creased by the fact that part of Seville occupies the old bed of the
Guadalquivir, which ran from Barqueta (PI. A, 4) vift the A lam tf da
de Hercules (PL B, 3) and the Calle de las Sierpes (PL D, E, 3, 4)
to the Palace of Santelmo (PL C, 3), at the harbour. The greatest
avenidas on record are those of 1595 and 1626. During the latter
the water reached the third story in the lower-lying streets, and
about 3000 houses fell in. Among the most destructive avenidas in
resent times were those of Dec. 8th, 1876 (which broke through the
embankment of the Cordova railway it Maearena), 1881, and 1892.
In spite of the labyrinth of narrow streets that it inherits from
the Moors, Seville is one of the gayest and brightest cities on the
globe. Every open space is planted with orange-trees, palms, a'^.a-
cias, and other trees. Everything in Seville is white, if not to the
same degree as at Jerez or Cadiz, and the broeha del hlanquedor (the
brush of the whitewasher) is constantly at work, now on the walU
of the houses, now on the stone-slabs bordering the gutters.
The Public Lifb of Seville is concentrated in the narrow Calle
de las Sierpes (p. 409), the Plaza de la Con««{ucidn (p. 408), and the
PtoTc de San Fernando (p. 409).
The PjEtiVATE LiFB is focussed, according to the Moorish custom,
in the inner courts of the houses, of which no other town in Spain
can show such brilliant and characteristic examples. The houses of
Seville have seldom more than two stories, and their street fronts are
always simple and unpretending. We first enter the Za^uan, a small
vestibule, which is separated from the Patio by a Cancel, or grating.
The court is uncovered and is flanked on the right and left by an
arcade, while in one corner is a wide staircase ascending to the
Upper Floor, with its glass-covered galleries overlooking the court.
This floor forms the winter-dwelling of the family, while in sum-
mer they live in the patio and in the rooms opening off it The
latter have no windows, but obtain all the light and air that is
necessary through the doors communicating with the court. The court
is always paved with marble, and there is generally a fountain
playing in the centre. A movable awning (toldo) protects it from
the rays of the sun. The patio practically forms the summer-parlour
394 B(mte43. SEVILLE. History.
or the house, and the well-to-do furnish it with rugS) sofas, pianos,
and mirrors and adorn it with flowers, foliage plants, and bright-
plumaged birds. Passers-by can look freely through the grating into
the court, which at night is generally illuminated by coloured lamps ;
and the stranger will find this glimpse of a Spanish domestic interior
go far to justify the old German saying, * Wen Oott Ueb hatj dem
giebt er ein Haus in Sevilla ('He whom God loves has a house In
Seville'). In the largest houses there are often several patios , but
all arranged in the same axis, so that the entire series is overlooked
from the principal entrance. In the extreme rear there is generally
a small orange-garden.
The CuBiATB of Seville (comp. p. xxxi) is one of the most delight-
ful on the continent of Europe. The summer is certainly unbearably
warm (sometimes touching 115° Fahr.) , but winter has seldom
a sunless day, and frost and snow are almost unknown. The most
charming season, corresponding to our May, is the early spring from
the middle of March to the end of April. The sky of Andalusia,
which is 'fire in the summer', is then at its balmiest, and no other
town of Spain is so delightful for a stay of some time.
The HisTOBY of Seville is somewhat scanty in comparison with
the age, the size, and the wealth of the town. It is probable that the
Phoenicians knew it under the name of Sephela ot Spela (a ^plain'),
which the Greeks afterwards changed into Hispola and the Romans
into Hispalis, Cassw: captured the town in B.C. 45 and fostered it in
opposition to Pompey's town of Cordova, naming it Julia Bomula
and making it one of the Oonventus Juridici (p. 231). At a later period
it became the capital of the SUingian Vandcds (411) and of the
Visigoths (441). King Leovigild transferred his residence in 567 to
the more central Toledo, while his son JSermenegild or Ermengild
remained at Seville as viceroy. The latter, supported by the brothers
Leander and Isidore, abandoned the Arian form of Christianity,
which the Goths had hitherto professed , and rebelled against his
father. Leovigild, however, suppressed the revolt in 684; and a
renewed rising in 586 led to the execution of Hermenegild. Later,
when the Athanasian faith obtained the upper hand in Spain,
Hermenegild and his two supporters, the 'Apostles of the Goths'
and the 'Religious Fathers of Spain*, who presided at the Concilia
Hispalensia in 590 and 619, were canonized.
In 712, after a siege that lasted a month, Seville (Arab. Ishbiliya)
was captured by the Moors under Musd^ and assigned, after the
expulsion of the Christians, to the Arabs of Yemen. Miisa's son
^Abd eWA%tz, the first Arab viceroy of Spain , married EgiUma^
widow of Roderick, the last King of the Goths. His successor AyiJib
transferred his residence to Cordova in 715. Seville then long
remained a mere provincial town, but in 1021, on the fall of the Om-
mayads (p. 308), it declared itself an independent republic, under
History. SEVILLE. 43, Route, 395
the leadership of Abu'l KAtim Mohammed (d. 1042), an Arab of the
family of the Beni ^AhbM. Under his sacoessors Ahbad (al^Mo'tamid ;
1042-69) and Al-Mo'tamid II. (1069-91) It eclipsed Cordova so
entirely, that its population rose to 400,000 souls. The latter, un-
fortunately for himself, invited the Almoravides (p. 309) into the
land, and they took possession of it on their own account. In 1147
Seville fell into the hands of the Almohades (p. 309), and in 1212
it might easily have been taken by the Christians after the battle
of Las Navas de Tolosa (p. 302), if they had realized their opportun-
ity. Ferdinand III. (the Saint) of Castile conquered it on St.
Clement's Day (Nov. 23rd), 1248, after a siege of six months, in
which he was aided by Ibn al-Ahmar (p. 335), Sultan of Granada.
Ferdinand made the city his residence, expelled about 300,000
Moors, who migrated to Granada and N. Africa, and divided the
soil among his followers ('el Repartimiento'). In the struggle be-
tween Alfonso X. (the Learned; 1252-84) and his son Sancho Se-
ville remained loyal to the former and won the motto mentioned
at p. 396. The most celebrated and most popular king in Seville
IV as Peter I. (1350-69), surnamed either EL Cruel or El Justiciero
('the judge') according to one^s point of view. Peter espoused the
cause of the people as against the noblesse and relentlessly punished
the excesses of the latter. Many popular anecdotes are still current
in Seville concerning this adventurous, just, and cruel monarch,
who appears in them sometimes as a kind of Blue Beard, sometimes
as a judge and executioner. He has often been brought upon the
stage by dramatists of the golden age of Spanish literature, as by
Lope de Vega in his 'Star of Seville'.
The discovery of America advanced Seville to an undreamt of
importance. On Palm Sunday (Mar. 31st), 1493, Columbus was
formally received here on his return from his first voyage. Tlie
city was invested with the monopoly of the Transatlantic trade,
was chosen as the seat of the Tribunal de las Indias^ and soon became
one of the chief ports of Spain.
Though the unification of Spain forced the ultimate selection of
Madrid as the capital of the kingdom (comp. p. 61), Seville remained
loyal even during the episode of the Comuneros (p. 63) and was
rewarded with the motto ^ab Hercule et Caesar eridbilitas^ a se ipsafide-
litas\ Its decline dates from the accession of the Bourbons, who
favoured Cadiz at the expense of SevlUe. The Council of the Two
Indies was removed to Cadiz in 1720. Nothing was done to prevent
the silting up of the Guadalquivir, and the commerce of Seville
became a thing of the past.
Seville can proudly boast of being the birthplace of the two chief
Spanish painters, Velazquez (1699-1660) and MunUo (1617-82^
Other eminent Sevillian painters are Juan de las Roelas (1558-
1625) and Francisco Herrera 'el Viejo (1576-1654), and Seville was
also the home of Martinez Montanis (d. 1649), the famous carver
396 RouU 43, SEVILLE. Cai^a Dmja,
of figures of the Saviour. Among its authors are the dramatist Lope
de Rueda(d, 1567 ?), Fernando de Herrera (1534-97), Mateo Aleman
(1550-I6u9), author of the Picaresque romance 'Guzman de Al-
farache', and the poet and scholar Alberto*Li$ta (1775-1848). CieeUie
Bohl von Faber (1796-1877), the novelist, widely known under her
pseudonym of Fem&n CabaUero^ spent the greater part of her life in
Seville (tablet on house in the Galle Fernan Caballero , PI. D, 4).
Cardinal Wiseman (1802-65) was horn at SeviUe.
Seville, the ^Spanish Rome', is the scene of most imposing
Church FestifxtU; its Chantable Institutions are not excelled for
number and equipment by those of any .other town in Spain ; and
Its Bull Fights are among the most celebrated of the country. Music,
however, has done even more to make it famous. It Is the scene
of Mo%arVs *Don Juan' and 'Figaro' and of BizeVs 'Carmen', and
there are many claimants to be the shop of BossinVs loquacious
barber ('numero quindici, a mano manca').
The Goat-op- Asms of Seyille consista of a throned figure of St. Fer-
dinandy between SB. Leandro and Jtidaro (p. 394). The motto is 'rowy noble^
muy lealy muy heroiea i invietd*. Above is a crown with a curions knot
(inadtja) between the syllables no and do. Head a« a rebus, this makes
no mad^a do, i.e. no nu ha d^ado ('it has not deserted mej, and refers
to the city^s loyalty to Alfonso X. This device ('el nodo^) is repeated on
every possible occasion in Seville.
a. The Plaza del Triunfo with the Aleaiar and the Cathedral.
A visit to Seville is best begun at the Plaza del Triunfo (PI.
F, 3), which is surrounded by three Imposing buildings : the Lonja
on the "W., the Alcazar on the S., and the Cathedral on the N. A
Monument in the middle of the square commemorates the escape
of Seville at the Earthquake of Lisbon (Nov. 1st, 1755). On the
morning of this day, just as the earthquake began, the cathedral
chapter were celebrating mass ; and this is the reason of the annual
procession mentioned at p. 391.
The Casa Lonja (PI. F, 3), a Renaissance building 184 ft. square
and 56 ft. high to the parapet (antepecho)^ was built for the mer-
chants of Seville in 1583-98, under the superintendence of Juan
de Mijares, from a design (not very closely adhered to) of Juan
de Herrera (p. 110). Before its erection the merchants had their
exchange (Casa de Contratacidn) at first In the AlcAzar, then outside
the Puerta de San Ori8t6bal, and in the Court of Oranges at the cath-
edral. The Academy of Painters y founded on Jan. 1st, 1660, under
the presidency of Murillo, also held its meetings In the Casa Lonja.
The main W. entrance leads to the handsome Patio, built of sand-
stone from the quarries of Martelilla (near Jerez) and recently paved with
marble. It is surrounded by a double arcade, the lower story in the
Doric, the upper in the Ionic style. The central fountain bears a amail
statue of Columbus. A sumptaous marble *8taiboasb, built in the reign
of Charles III., ascends to the Vkstibdlo Superiob and to the Archive
Ganeral de Indias (adm., see p. 391). The latter, founded in 1784, con-
■»ins a most extensive collection of documents relaiing to the discovery,
nquest, and governing of America and the Philippine Islands (in 32,o0O
Alcdtar. SEVILLE. 43, RouU, 397
Uffajos^ or portfolios, arranged in 11 sections). A number of the most im-
portant documents, including autographs of Pitan'o, Fernando Cortes^
Magalhaes (Magellan)^ Balboa^ and Amerigo Vespucci (but not Columbus),
are exhibited under glass. There is also a letter of Ctrvantes^ applying •
for one of Ihe four ojlcio* in America. The roof (atotia)^ reached by a
tasteful staircase, affords a picturesque view of Seville and its cathedral.
— On the ground floor of the E. wing is the Consdlado, or Chamber of
Commerce (conserje V«-l P-^i with the portraits of Spanish rulers. In a small
adjoining room are portraits of eminent merchants of Seville.
The *Alc&zar (PL F, 3 ; adm., see p. 391), the palace of the
Moorish kings, has been the residence of the Spanish sovereigns
since the capture of Seville (p. 395). It was built on the ruins of
the Roman Prsetoriuni, and its original form was that of a huge
triangular castle or citadel, the apex of which was formed by the
Torre del Oro (p. 418). One side of the triangle united this with
the N.E. angle of the present Alcazar, the second ran thence to the
S. to the present tobacco factory, and the third from the tobacco
factory back to the starting-point. The main entrance then ad-
joined the Torre de la Plata (p. 418). The S. side of this castle
formed the main object of St. Ferdinand's attack (p. 395).
Of the ancient Alcazar, begun in 1181 by Talilkdi^ an architect
of Toledo, for the Almohad sultan Ahu Ya'kub Yilauf, almost nothing
remains. The nucleus of the present structure, which is much more
limited in extent, is due to Pedro the Cruel (p. 395), who caused the
rooms round the Patio de la Monterla to be erected in 1353-64 by
Moresco architects, and partly with the remains of earlier buildings
at Seville, Cordova, Medinat az-Zahrl (p. 318), and Valencia.
Though thus originally a masterpiece of the Mud^jar style, the
building has been strangely altered and modified by the additions
and restorations of five Christian centuries. Isabella the Catholic
erected the chapel on the first floor. Charles V., who was married
to Isabella of Portugal in the Hall of the Ambassadors, built the
Court of the Maidens, added some other rooms, and laid out the
gardens. Philip II. is responsible for the portraits of the kings in
the Hall of the Ambassadors (1610). An extensive restoration took
place under Philip IV. (1624). Philip V., who spent two years
here in complete retirement, added the Apeadero and the fish-
pond. Ferdinand VI. erected the Oflcinas above the baths of Maria
de Padilla (p. 400). The ravages of the fire of 1762, which destroyed
many of the artesonado ceilings, were not made good till 1805. In
1813 the stucco ornamentation of the Court of the Maidens was
overlaid with whitewash. The restoration of 1857 revived much
of the former brilliancy of colouring, but it was carried on with
little sense of archsological accuracy, and numerous motives were
arbitrarily borrowed from the Alhambra. Nevertheless, the extreme
beauty of some of the- details of the Alcazar, such as the Court of
the Maidens, the Hall of the Ambassadors, and the facade of the
Patio de la Monteria, still offers a rare pleasure to even the most
critical beholder.
398 BwU43, SEVILLE. AU^zar.
The exterior of the Alcazar, with its masses of hare masonry
and its embattled towers, still preserves the character of a mediaeval
castle. The Enteancb is by the portal in the S.E. corner of the
Plaza del Triunfo. We traverse the large Patio de laa BandtraSy
with its orange-trees, where a banner was hoisted when the royal
owner was in residence and which contains a stone seat used by
Peter the Cruel when dispensing justice. This brings us to the
Apeadero, a passage with a double row of columns. Hence we
may either pass to the left into the gardens mentioned at p. 400,
or to the right into the Jardine$ de Maria Padilla, a court, planted
with orange-trees and palms, and beyond it into the Paiio de la
Monterfa, the court of the royal lifeguards ('monteros de Espinosa').
The Patio de la Monteria is flanked on the one side by the 8ala
de la Jusiieia and on the other by the •Main Fa9Adb (Fachada y
Puerta Principal) of the Alcasar, a richly articulated structure,
resembiing Persian models and probably in the main an imitation
of the old facade of Taliidi (p* 397). The far-projecting roof, borne
on corbels, overhangs a superb stalactite frieze, below which is a
row of beautiful ajimez windows with marble columns. The wind-
ows and side-doors are surmounted by ousped Moorish arches, but
the main portal rather recalls the Egyptian style. To the right and
left the row of windows is continued by an open gallery.
The portal la richly adorned with stucco ornameutation and with
several Arabic inscriptions in the Cufic character. Another inscription
in early-Gothic characters, not unlike the Cuflc, reads : ^El muy alio e muy
noble e muy poderoso e muy conqueridor Don Pedro , por la gracia de Dies
Rey de CastieUa e de Leon, mando fazer eetos alcazares e esto* palaeios e estas
portadas. que fui feeho en la era (de Cesar) de miU e quatrodentos y dos
{i.e. 1364 A. D).
As in the Alhambra, the rooms are grouped round a large inner
court ; but the unsystematic and restless arrangement of the Alcazar
contrasts very unfavourably, for all its brilliancy of colouring, with
the simplicity of the Grenadine palace. This large court, entered
from the Veatihulo by a narrow passage (Pasillo) to the left, is the
♦Patio db las Dokobllas, or Court of the Maidens, a cloister-like
space measuring 62 ft. by 50 ft., much altered by Luia de Vega in
the time of Charles V. The lower part of the walls, covered with
plaster and pierced by 24 exquisite Moorish arches, is supported by
52 coupled marble columns in the Renaissance style. The entire
upper story is an addition of the Renaissance. Charles V.'s motto,
^plu8 ultra\ is everywhere in evidence. The galleries are adorned
with beautiful azulejos (aUcatados), The large doors leading to the
adjoining rooms are let into the stone door-posts and corbels in the
singular fashion mentioned at p. 360.
To the S. of the great court is the *8al6n de Carlos QuifUOy
with its beautiful wooden ceiling, azulejos, and jalousies (celosias).
It is adjoined on the W. by the Room of Maria de PadiUa, the
organatic wife of Pedro the Cruel. To the W. of the court is
AUd%ar.
SEVILLE.
43, Route, 399
the magnillcent **8aU5n de Emhajadores (Hall of the Ambassadors)^
a room B3 ft. sq., covered with a dome in the media naranja form
(p. B&9 ; renewed in 1427) and adorned with beautiful azulejos. On
the walls are a series of portraits of the Kings of Spain , from
Chindaswinth to Philip III. (repainted). Above these is a broad
frieze of window -like niches surjoaonnted by a band of almocardbes
(a kind of Moorish ornamental pattern). The balconies were added
by Charles V. The cupola originally contained panes of coloured
glass instead of the small mirrors. This room communicates by
beautiful vaulted doorways, each subdivided by two columns, with
5aLchada y Puerta'princ.
the Comedor (dining-room; W.), the Rooms of Maria de Padilla (S.),
and the Room of Philip II. (N.). — To the N.W. lies the *Patio
de las Munecas, or Dolls' Court, so named from the small figures
in its decoration. It recalls the third period of Arab architecture
(p. 356), but the upper part is modern. This court, which is
believed to be the scene of Pedro's murder of his brother Fabri-
quet, is adjoined by the Bedroom of Isabella the Catholic and the
Cuarto de los PrCncipes. To the N. of the Maidens' Court are the
t It was also aft the Alcazar of Seville that Peter murdered his royal
guest, Abu Said of Granada, for the sake of his jewels, one of which, a
large *spiner ruby, given by Peter to the Black Prince, now figures in the
British regalia (see Baedeker's London).
400 RouU43. SEVILLE. Qirdlda,
so-called Dormiiorio de lo$ Reyes Moros (Bedroom of the Moorish
Kings) and a small ante-room (alhami), with its old flooring and
heautifal columns in its ajimez windows. The numerous Arabic
inscriptions date from the Christian period. — The interesting
rooms on the Uppbb Floor date mainly from the 16th century. The
most noteworthy are the small Chapel of the Catholic Kings^ with a
terracotta altar by Nieolh Francesco of Pisa (1603) and the motto
*tanto monta', and the Room of Peter the Cruel. The four death's
heads, painted on the wall of the latter, near the door, refer to four
corrupt judges executed by the king. A small winding staircase
(caracol) descends hence to the rooms of Maria de Padilla.
The ^Gardens of the Alc&sar (PI. F, G, 2, 3) are approached from the
Patio de las Banderas through the Apeadero. The large tank at the en-
trance collects the water necessary lor irrigation. Prom the adjoining
terrace we descend to the Baiios, -a vaulted gallery, where Maria de Pa-
dilla used to bathe, while Don Pedro's courtiers showed their gallantry
by drinking the water. In the middle of the gardens stands the Pabelldn
de Carlos Quinto^ erected by Juan Hernandez in 1510 and adorned with
beautiful ftsulejos and a wooden eeiUng. The gardens also contain a
maze, a grotto, and 'surprize water-works' (biirladores)y which beaprinkle
the unwary visitor. The flowering and other plants are very beautiful.
As we emerge from the Alcazar on the Plaza del Triunfo, we see
in front of us the mighty frame of the cathedral, with the Capilla
Real (p. 407) projecting at its E. end and the lofty Giralda rising
over its N.E. angle.
The **Oiralda (PI. F, 4), the most conspicuous landmark of Se-
ville, is the oldest and the most beautiful building in the city,
distinguished by the singularly pure and harmonious proportions of
its outline. It was originally the minaret (p. 310), or prayer-tower,
of the principal Moorish mosque (p. 403), and was erected in 1184-
96 by the architect Djdbir or Oever (?) for the Almohad Abu
Ya'kub Yiisuf (p. 403). Part at least of the building material was fur-
nished by the remains of old Roman and probably also of Visigothic
structures ; many Roman inscriptions are immured in the walls. The
massive tower, battering slightly towards the top, was then about
230 ft. high. In ground-plan it is a square of 49 ft., and its tile-
faced walls are 8-10 ft. in thickness. The upper surface of the walls,
above a height of about 80 ft. from the ground, is diapered with a
net-work of Arabesque-like sunken panels (ajaracasj^ and is farther
enlivened with niches and 20 windows, most of which are of the
so-called 'ajimez' variety (p. xxxviii). The paintings by Luis de
Vargas (1558) in the upper niches, described by Mariana as 'pin-
turas hermosas a maravilla', are faded beyond recognition.
The Giralda belongs to the second period of Moorish architecture
(p. 356). It was originally crowned by an embattled platform (comp.
the altar-piece in the cathedral, pp. 407, 408). This bore an iron
standard with four enormous balls of brass, said to have been
made by the Arab AhuH Layth el-Sikili ('the Sicilian); but these
were overthrown by an earthquake in 1395. It was not till 1668
PaUo d. I. Naranjos. SEVILLE. 43, Route, 401
that the caihedi&l'chipter eotnmtwioned Sem^an Buw (p. 318) to
bnild the present upper section of .l&e tower. This consists of. » rec-
tangular helfry, surmounted by another reotangnlar stage of smaller
diameter, the fbur. faces ef "which bear the inscrtptlQa 'Nomen Domiai
ForiUrima Turri$' (Prov. xyiii. 10). The whole is osappidd by a small
dome, on' which' stands a bronze feinale figure representing Fai^h
fia Fi)^ with the banner of Gonataniine (laba/rumj^ c^t by Bairto>-
lonU'Uoftl (1568). This figure is the QwomUoy qx vane (wltta
gircBloria^i which gives the tower its name, and moves quite readily
in spite of the ^actthat it is 13 ft. high and weigbs 1^4 ton. It is
about 308 ft. above the ground. The ivhole strueture was restored
in 1886-88 under the superintendence of Fert^andeai Catanom. -r*
The- Qiral^. stands under the special protection otSS» Jutta and
Hufinai as indicated in a picture by MiviDo (No 4 19, p* 415).
Ikuuor (admu, see p. 901 ; doot at tH« S;E. oornei;)* We a^fsend by
an easy inclined plane, ia 85 sectiona, an^ ending in 16 stepa, to the Arst
gallery, which arfords a limitless •View, The bells here were all chris-
tened with holy Oil and bear names 'sncn as iSf<»l(a JToHa, La Oordti^ an4
Ml Ca»t9r, By 69 steps move we reacliL the dock; made in 1764 by J<a4
Gwhdero, a Franciscan monk. The clock it replaces was the 0r8t tower-
clock in Spain (1400); the bell (Ban Migutl) Is the original. Between the
clock and. the Oiraldillo are two atages to whiohvisi tors- are not admitted.
The Palaoto Arzobibpai (PI. E, P, 8), to the N. E. of the Giralda,
dates from tbe i7th cent, and encloses several handsome patios. It
contains a small collection of palTitings, most of which came from
the cathedral. The most Interesting are the Conception, Birth of the
•Virgin, and Purification, three pictures by AU30 Fernandez^ an
early master of Seville. The eecieiiaatical dungeon of La Parra^
within tbis palaoe, is often mentioned In poems aud novels.
Adjacent, at ^0. 6 Galle Abades (PI. £L 8), is a house with a fine
patio. — At the comer of this street and the CJalle Marmoles the shafts
of three huge granite columns were recently discovered, probably belong-
ing, like those In the Alameda de Hercules (p. 413)) to a- Roman temple.
The OAiitJB PB AxEMANBs, running to the "W. from the Arch-
bishop^s Palaoe, skirts the N. side of the *]Patio de lbs Haranjos
(PI. F, 3), the oeurt of the old Moorish mosque (p. 403). As at
Cordova (p. 313), this 'Court of the Oranges' is entered by a raised
Lon^a or Oradaa and through a handsome Puerta del Perddn, This
gate, whleh according to Amader de los Bios was erected in honour
of Alfonso XL's victory on the Sala.do (1340), more probably dates,
like the court itself, from the Almohad period, though it has receiv-
ed several Christian additions. The bronze - mounted *Dooi8,
marred by a coat of paint, and the knockers, resembling those of
Cordova, are in the Mud^jar style. The plateresque ornamentation
is by Bartolomi Lopez (1522). The sculptures, consisting of statues
of SS. Peter and Paul, a group of the Annunciation, and a relief of
the Expulsipn of the Money Changers from the Temple (in referemie
to the use ef the court ^s an exchange, p. 396) are by Miguel of
Florence (15 19). The magnificent old artesonado ceiling was removed
Babdeksb's Spain. 26
402 Route 43. SEVILLE. Ca^tdral.
in 1883 and replaced by a Towtf, Above tbe inner arebvmy are
a sun-dial and a grotesque head.
The Intbbiob of the court, which is 7QS ft. long and 126 ft. wide,
is very picturesque. In front of us is the Cathedral, to the right the
Sagrario (p. 408), to the left the Library of Columbus (see below),
over all the Giralda. The fountain in the middle is theold Moorish
Midhd (p. 310), consisting of an octagonal basin resting on six
supports and surmounted by a second basin. To the W. of the
fountain is an inscription marking the resting-place of two victims
of the tyranny of Napoleon. The CapiUa de la Oranadaj in the S.E.
comer of the court, still retains a horseshoe aioh of the old mosque.
In a dark chamber here hang an elephant's tusk (weighing 66 lbs.),
the aUeged bridle of Bdbitca, the horse of the Old (p. ^), and the
so-called Laga/rto ('lizard') , a stuffed crocodile sent by the Sultan
of Egypt to Alfonso the Learned in 1260, along with a request for
the hand of his daughter. Against the wall of the library, on the
£. side of the court, is an old stone pulpit, in which St. Vincent
Ferrer, St. Francis of Borja, And *otros grandes varones' preached, as
recorded by the inscription below.
The ^BiBLioTBCA CoLUMBiKA (entrance by the last door to the
left), formed by Fernando CoUSn (p. 404) and bequeathed by him to
the Cathedral Chapter In 1539, contains about 30,000 vols, and is
rich in works relating to the discovery of America.
Among its chief rarities are tlie Bible of Ai/orno the Leamedj by Pedru
de Pamplona; the PontiMal of Bishop Juan de Calahorra (1390); tke
MUial of Card. Mendoza (lith cent) ; a Libto de Herat, said to have
belonged to Isabella the Oatholic^ the Missale SispakMe (lfi-16tk cent.)(
and the MisMl of Card. QonKalez de Mendoza (16th cent.)» ftH illnstrated
with beautifal miniatures. — The glory of the collection is, however,
the Five Hanascripts of Oolambaa, inelndine a copy of the Tr<»etatus
de Imagine Mundi by Card. Pierre d'Ailly^ with marginal notes in the
handwriting of Columbus, and a treatise on the Biblical indications of
the New World, written by Columbus in prison to pacify the Inqui-
sition. — On the walls are portraits of the Archbishops and other celebrated
'h^jos de SeviUa\ That of St. Ferdinand ia a copy after Hurillo. A sword
of the 16th cent, is wrongly described as that of Femdn Qonzdlex (p. 32),
used by Qareia. Perez de Vargas at the capture of Seville.
Two doors lead from the Court of Oranges into the cathedral :
the Puerto del Lagarto and the PUerta de lot Naranjoe. It is, how-
ever, preferable to quit the court by the Puerta del Perd6n and to
enter the cathedral from the Calls dbl Oban CAprrAN, on its W.
side. In this street, opposite the cathedral, is the Colegio deSan
Miguel^ a priests' seminary, bearing a memorial tablet to the
composer Eelava (1807-78 ; p. 390).
The •^Cathedral (PI. F, 3; adm., see p. 391) is undoubtedly
one of the largest, handsomest, and richest Gothic churches in
Christendom, unexcelled in its impression of solemn mystery, and
at once a veritable museum of works of art and a treasury of histor-
ical associations. An old saying groups the chief cathedrals of
CATCDRAL DE SEVILLA
f t » * r Metro*
if-t"t"tr^°b.
jfciHillMHIIJfllfliff
1 SepitLcro deFemando Colon,
2 Cap.cLLConcepclorv cfUccu
3 CaplUcL dflosJcLcomes
tAZtar de la. Tisitadprv
5 (ktpUla de S.Leandro
^Jltar dJ/:S.del Consujelo
1 CapiUa. de SJsidoro
^ Altar del Tfacimiento
9 CofiiUjCL de S.Zcacreanx)
10 ' deS.AncL
11 CapiUa, de S.Jose
12 » deS.BBrmenegUdo
13 ' de ULAnt^ua
X^Jltar de la, Oamba.
15 ' delcL Santa,Oux
16 CapiUa, de loaJDolores
17 ' deSoTiAndres
18 # delMariscal
Vi CorUojduT-ia. maytfr
20 CapiUa, d-l. Concepgrande
21 CapOlcL de SaivPedro
22 ' delPUqr
m » de losErqngeUstas
Zh " dt lasJfonoeUas
25 .ifttzr <fe laAsunacfrv
26 * d.LTirgende£eien
27 CapUUL de SJ'rancisco
28 • £fe Santtago
29 ' deSscxxlas
30 ' delBautisterio
Geo^. AnsUvi'WagBer JbDebes. Leipzig.
Cathedral, SEVILLE. 43. Route. 403
Spain together as ' Toledo Ubrica^ Salamanca la fuette^ Leon la hellHy
Oin«do la eacra^ e SeviUa la grande'- Like all otbei Spanish churches
from which Christianity has driven out Islam, the cathedral of
Seville is dedicated to Santa Maria de laSede. At first the Spaniards
contented themselves with consecrating the great mosque of Abu
Ya^kub Yiauf, built in 1171 et seq. When, however, this 'Old
Cathedrar fell into disrepair, the Chapter determined (1401) to
erect the pxesent basilica 'on so magnificent a scale that coming
ages might proclaim them mad to have undertaken lt\ This build-
ing was begun in 1402 and practically finished in 1506. The arch-
itects, who are unknown, came, perhaps, from Germany. The dome
colUpsed in 1511 and was re-erected from a deaigu by Juaok Oil de
Hontanon (p. 466) in 1512-17. The whole of the vaulting of the
church was considerably weakened by earthquake shocks, and an
extensive restoration was begun in 1882 under the superintendence
of Casanova (p. 401), but unfortunately too late to prevent a second
collapse of the dome (Aug. 1st, 1888). Scaffoldings were at once
run up to try to save the rest.of the vaulting, and the reconstruction
of the dome is now under way.
The W. facade, the only exposed side of the cathedifal, contain^
three portals : the Puerta Mayors with a relief of the Assumption by
Ricardo Bellver (1885) ; the Puerta del Naeimiento pr de San Miguel
to the S. ; and the Puierta del Bautiemo or de San Juan to the N.
The last two are adorned with beautiful sculptures by Pedro Millan
(ca. 1500). The tasteless upper part of the facade dates from 1827.
— The i^€fta de ka CmnpaniUas and the Puerta de los Palos^ at
the E. end of the church, are even more lavishly adorned with
sculptures (ascribed to Lope Marin, 1548) than those of the W.
facade. — The three portals on the N. side (Puerta del LagartOy
p. 402; Puerta de los Naranjos, p. 402; and Puerta del Sagrario)
are unfinished. — The Puerta de San CristiShal or de la Lonja, at
the S. end of the transept, was added by Casanova in 1887.
In his description of tbe cathedra], published in 1804, Cean Bei-mudez
says : ^Seen firom a certain distance, it resembles a high-pooped and be>
flagged ship, rising over the sea with hazmonious grouping of sails, pen-
nons, and banners, and with its main-mast towering over the mizzen-
mast, fore-mast, and bowsprit. Its lofty tower (Giralda) and snperb
transept dominate the other navea and chapels with their myriads of
turrets, pinnacles, and bosses'. — Caveda writes: ^The general e£fect is
truly majestic The open-work parapets which crown the roofs; the
graceful lanterns of the eight winding stairs that ascend in the comers
to the vaults and galleries; the flying buttresses that spring lightly from
aisle to nave, as the jets of a cascade from diff to cliff; the slender
pinnacles that cap them; the proportions of the arms of the transept and
of the buttresses supporting the side- walls; the large pointed windows
that oilmen between them, one above another, just as the aisles and chapels
to which they belong rise over each other; the pointed portals and en-
trances: — all these combine in an almost miraculous manner, although
there are lacking the wealth of detail, the airy grace, and the delicate
elegance that chatracteri^e the cathedrals of Leon and BuTgos\
The Intbbiob, at present wholly spoiled and idarkened by the
26*
404 Route 43. SEVILLE. Cathedral
scaffolding (p. 403), has a nave, double aisles, two rows of eide
chapels, a transept flash with the main walls, a coro in the middle
of the nave, and a capllla mayor. The total length, e-xclnsive of the
Capilla Real (p. 407), Is 380 ft., the width is 260 ft. The nate is
53 ft. wide and 132 ft. high -, the aisles are 36 ft. wide and 85 ft.
high. The total area is 124,000 sq. ft. (Milan Cathedral 90,000 sq. ft.,
Toledo Cathedral 75,000 sq. ft. , St. Paul's in London 84,000 sq. ft.,
St. Peter's 162,000 sq. ft.). *The majestic simplicity and decorative
restraint of the whole, the carefully observed rhy^mlcal relatiims
of one part to another are delightful in propbrtion to the size of
the diniensions, the purity of the lines, and the graeeful section
of the profiles' (Caveda). — Th6 handsome marble flooring was laid
in 1787-95.
The 75 stained-glass windows were executed in the course of
the 16-1 9th cent., partly after paintings by the ^eat Italian masters.
Among the finest are the earliest of all by Micet CrUUSbttl AUman
(1504); the Ascension, Christ and Mary Magdalen, th<e Awakening
of Lazarus, the Entry into Jerusalem, and other scenes by :Amao de
FLandes (1525-57) and Arnao de Vefgwa; and the Resurrection by
Carlos de Bruges (1 563).
In the nave, near the main W.' entrance, H the tombstone (PI. 1)
of Fernando Coldri (d. 1640 or 1641), the learned son of the great
discoverer.- It bears representations of the caravels of Columbus and
the famous inscription : ^d CaeUUa y d Leon mundo nueho dv6 Colon,''
Over this tombstone, in Paasion Week, is ere43ted the Kohumento, a
wooden temple, 106 ft. high, decorated in white and gold. It is aaid to
have been originally con.structed by Antonio Flormtin in 1545-54 in the
form of a Greek cross ^ consisting of three stages and enfiing in a crucifits.
In 1649, 1668, and 1H89 it was restored and hdghtened so as nearly to
remh the vaulting of the Cathedral. On the night between IM[aundy Thurs-
day and Good^ Friday, when .the Host is deposited here, the Moniimento
is brilliantly illuminated and produce^ an effect as of magic (p. 390).
The TsASCOjELO, worked in marble in the Doric style, contains
a painting of the Virgen de los Remedios (beginning of the 16th
cent.), a smaller picture ascribed to Francisco Pacheeo (1633) and
representing the Surrender of Seville to St. Ferdinand, and four
marble reliefs from Genoa. Two doors enter the coro from this side.
The OoRo and its contents were almost totally destroyed by the
fall of the dome. Its treasures of art included the reja by 8ancho
Munoz ri519) at its E. end, the.facistol (lectern) by Bartolomd
Morel (1670), the choir-books of Sanchez^ Oria, PadiUay and Diego
delSalto (1516-1600), $nd the famous Gothic siUeria by Nufro
Sanchez and Dancart (1475-79). I'he two organs, by George Bosch
(1777) and Valentin Verdalonga (1817), were also destroyed; and
a like fate befell the smaller rejas by Sancho Munoz In the space
between the choir and capilla mayor (*Entre los Cores').
In thi^ space, during Holy Week, is ereeted the Tenebrario, an
artietip candelabrnm by Morel (15623, 26 ft. high and adorned with 15
Btatoettes. If holds 18 eaadles, 12 of which, representini^ the faint-hearted
Caih€dTal. SEVILLE. 48. BauU. 405
Apostlef, $n extiBguished one by one » wbile the ISth, of ;white wax, is
left barning to typify Ihe loyalty of the Virgin aiaiy.
The Capilla Mayob, to which several steps ascend, was screened
from the crossing by theReja Principal by the Dominican Francisco
de Salamanca (ibiS) J with a pulpit at each side, but this was
destroyed by the falling dome. The chapel contains a large retablo
made of larch-wood, which was also damaged by the faU of the
dome. The central niche is occupied by a silver figure of the Virgen
de la Sede hy Francisco Alfaro (^1696), and in the other 46 com-
partments are painted and gilded groups of scenes from the Bible
and the life of the Virgin. At the top are a crucifix and lifesi^e
statuM of the Virgin and St. John. The whole retablo was executed
from designs by Dancart (1482j and was completed in ^626. The
tabernacle and the reading-desk^ are by Alfaro. — The SacrisUa
Alia, behind the high-altar, has a fine artesonado ceiling.
The SiDB Chapels and their sacristies fgrm a veritable musieum
of painting and sculpture, th« full enjoyment of which is marred
by the inadequate light. A list of their names is given on the
ground-plan opposite p. 403. The mpst important works of art are
mentioned below in the places they usually occupy ; but the most
valuable have been collected in the Sacristfa de los Calice^ (p. 406)
until the restoration of the church Is. finished.
W. Side. At the Altar de la Vintucidn (PI. 4) are a picture by
Pedro ViUegat MurmoUja (1620-97) afid a Penitent St Jerome by
Jerdnimo Hemande%, — Adjoining the Puerta Mayor is. the AUar
de NtuBtra Senora del Consueio (PI. 6), with a Holy Family by
Alonso Miguel de Tohar (1720), a pupil of MuriUo. — Beyond the
Puerta del Nacimiento is the small Altar del Nacimiento (Pi. 8), with
the Adoration of the Magi, the Four Evangelists, and other excel-
lent paintings by Luis de Vargas (1502-68).
S. Aisle. Capilla de 8an Laureano (PI. 9), with the tomb of
Archhp, Alonso de Ex'ea (d. 1417). — In the Cap. de Santa Ana
(PI. 10), to the left, is an altar from the old cathedral (p. 403),
with 14 pictures of the begiuning of the 15th cent., and a paint-
ing of St. Anna of 1504. Over another altar is a Christ, euniamed
de Mara^Mibo. The tomb of Archhp. Luis de la Lastral by Bicatdo
BeUner, was erected in 1880. — Cap^ de San Jos6 (PI. 11), with
an Adoration of the Holy Child and a Presentation in the Temple
by Fraricisco AntoLinez (1644-76) and a Marriage of the Virgin by
Juan VaUes Leal, — The Cap. 4« San Hetmmegildo (PI. 12) con-
tains the ^Imiagen Titular' of this saint, ascribed to Montanis^ and
the ^Tornb of Archbp. Juan de Cervantes (d. 1453) by Lorenzo
Mercadante de Breiana. — In the- Cap. de la Antigua (Pi* 18) are
an altar-piece of the 14th cent, (retonched) representing the Virgin
and Child with a rose {p. Ixiii), apd the handsome monument of
Card, Mendoza^ by Miguel of Florence (1509).
In i^e S. transept, tp the right of the Puerto de San Cristdbal,
406 nouteiS. SEVILLE. Cathedral.
gtands the Altar de la Oamba (PI. 14), with the celebrateTd ♦*Geiie-
racion' by Luia de Vargas^ restored in 1879. This work, depicting
Adam and Eve adoring the Virgin, Is a symbolical representation
of the Immaculate Conception and is generally known as *La Oamba*,
from the finely drawn andpaintedlegof Adam. Opposite is a colossal
painting, 33 ft. high, of San Cristdbal (Sf. Christopher), by the Italian
Mateo Perez de ALesio (1584). This point aifoJds a very picturesque
view of the interior of the cathedral. — On the other side of the
portal is the Altar de la Santa Cruz (PI. 15), with a Descent from
the Cross by Pedro Fernandez de Guadalupe (1527). — Through the
Cap. de lo8 Dolores (Pi. 16) we reach the pseudo-Gothic Sacbistia db
LOS Calices (open till 8 a.m. ; at other hours, fee), built by Diego de
Biano (d. 1533) and Martin Oainza (d. 1556) in 1530-37. In front
of us is a celebrated Crucifix, by Montanis^ from the Cartuja (p. 420).
On the left wall is the *Guardian Angel ('Angel de la Guarda*)
otMurillo^ a work that is little considered' by professional art-cri-
tics but seems to have made a profound Impression on Borrow,
A. J. C.*Barej Severn Teackle Wallis, and many other intelligent
travellers. On the same Wall : Morales'^ Triptych with the Ecce Homo,
the Virgin, and St. John ; Laiis de Vargcis, Fernando de Contreras
(d. 1548), the liberator of many Christian slaves; MurlllOj St. Dor-
othy ; Early German School, Pietk and DeJaith of the Virgin ; Juan
Nunez (15th cent.), PietJi, with St. Michael, St. Vincent, and the
donor; Goya, SS. JustaandRuflna(1817); Dom. Tkeotocopuli, 'Ko\y
Trinity. Opposite, on the window- wall. Is a St. John by Zurbaran.
To the E. of the Sacristia de las Calices and entered through the
Ante-Sala is the Sacbist/a Mayob (open 11-12; fee 1 p.), built In
1532 et seq. by Diego de Riano And. Martin Gainxa in a pleasing
Renaissance style. It contains a few good paintings, Including a
•Descent from the Cross by Pedro Campana (1548; badly restored
in 1882) and SS. Leander and Isidore by Murillo. The rich Treasury
of the cathedral is also kept here.
Among the chief possessions are a silver *Cugfodia, 10 ft. high, exe-
cuted hy Juan de Arphe in 1880-87 and restored by Juan Segura in 1668;
silver candelabra) portable altar in solid silver) the bronze *Tenebrario
(p. 404); the Tahlcu Al/onsincUt a reliquary in the form of a triptych,
presented to the chapter in 1274 by Alfonso the Learned ; numerous other
costly crosses, church-plate, and the like; a series of superb Vettmenti,
from the 14th cent, to the present day. The two Ke^f said to haye been
presented to 8t. Ferdinand on the capture of Seville are also interesting.
The silver key surrendered by the Moors bears the inscription: *May
Allah grant that Islam may rule eternally In this .eity\ On the. iron-
giU key of tha' Jews, in the Hud^jar style, are the words : ^The King of
Kings will open, the King of the Earth will enter'. The old *Brotue
Door of the Sagrario Yiejo (jp. 406), in the Itfud^jar style of the 14th
cent., was long kept in the Sacristia Alta (p. 406).
The Cap. del Mariscdl (Pi. 18) contains an ♦Altar-piece by
Pedro Campana, restored In 1880. It Is In ten sections, with the
Purification of the Virgin, the Child Jesns In the Temple, portraits
of Marshal Pedro Caballero, the founder, and his family, etc.
Cathidrd. SEVILLE. 4S, Route, 407
The <ntl *Sala Capitulab, 46 ft. long by 29 Vs ft. wide, was
began by RiaSio and Gakisa in 1530 bat notflnislied till after 1582.
Its Doric entablatare rests upon lonle pilasters; tbe decoration is
plftteresqae. The beaatifal toiling, tbe marble pavement with the
^nod«' (p. 396 ; generally ooyered)^ and the 16 marble medallions
from Genoa all deserve attenUon. The pictnres inolude a *Goncep-
tion by AfvriKo, a St. Ferdinand by Pcuheco, and the Four Ylrtnes
by PcAlo de dapedes. Murillo also painted die eight ovals between
the windows.
E« End. Beyond the Paerta de las Oampanillas is the Cap, de
la Coneepoi6n Orande (PI. 20), with the monument of Card. Ckn"
fuegd (1881). — Adjacent, in the main axis of the church and
screened by a lofty reja of 1773, is the Gafilla Real, a Renaissance
structure, 92 ft. long, 50 ft. wide, and 130 ft. high. It was begun
by Martin Oainza in 1551 on the site of the old royal chapel torn
down in 1481, was continued by Hernan Ruiz (p. 316), and was
finished in 1575 by Juan de Maeda, The lofty dome is borne by
eight candelabram-Iike pilasteTS ; the plastio ornamentation is very
Tteb. To the light and left of the entrance to the ohapel are the
tombs of Alfonso the Learned (d. 1284) and his mother Beatrice of
Swabiii, The apse is separated from the rest of the chapel by a
screen. On the high-altar at the back, to which a few steps ascend,
stands the VUrgen de lo$ Rtyes^ & figure of the 13th cent., sud to
have been given by St. Louis of France to St. Ferdinand of Spain.
It has removable golden hair, and its shoes are adorned with fleurs
de lis and, the word 'amor'. Its golden crown was stolen in 1873.
On a lower altar, in front, is a shrine of 1729, containing the body
QiSt, Ferdinand, King of Spain (d. May 31st, 1252), which is ex-
hibited to the public on May 30th, Aug. 22nd , and Nov. 23rd
(p. 395), while the troopa of the garrison march past and lower their
Golours. — The steps near . the front altar descend to the Pantedn^
eontaining the coffins of Peter the Gruel, Maria de Padilla (p. 400),
the Infantes Fadrique, Alonso^ and Pedro, and other members of
the royal family. Above the original coffin of St. Ferdinand is
placed a. small ivory, statuette of La Virgen de las Batallas, which
the royal saint always carried at his ^ddle-bow. Adjacent are his
penddn (pennant), renewed in 1531, and his sword. The latter is
carried in the procession of Nov. 23rd (see above). — In the Sacristy
of the Gap. Keal are a Mater Dolorosa by Murillo and two Saints
(Ignatius and Francis Xavier) by Pacheco. — The Cap. de 8an Pedro
(PI. 21) contains nine paintings by Zurbaran and the monument of
Ari^bp, Diego Deta^ destroyed by the Ftench and restored in 1883.
^ Beyond this chapel is the Paerta de los Palos (p. 403).
N. Aisle. In the Cap, del Pilar (PI. 22) is a figure of the Virgen
del Pilar by l^«<lfo MiUan (p. 403> — Beyond the Puerta del Lagarto
is the Cap. de los Evtmgelistas (PJ. 23),, with an altar-piece in nine
sections by Hernando de Slwmio (1555), of interest forats represent-^
408 Route 43, SEVILLE. Sagforia.
ation of tke old atr^lda (p. 400). -^ By the PaoiU de los Naranjos
(p. 402) are the Altar de la AmndiSn (PI. 26), with an Assumptiaii
by Catio Maratta, and tbe Altar de la Virgen. de BeUn (PI. 26),
with a ^FaiBting of the Virgin by AIqhso Cano. •-* The Cap, deSan
FVaneitco (PI. 27) has a Glorification of St. Francis by Eerrera el
Mo90 (1657) and a painting by Juan Valdis Leal (Virgin and St^
Ildefonso, p. 140). — In the. Ca|>. de Santiago (PL 28) are a *St
James by Juan de las &oeZaa(1609), a St. Lawrenee by Valdfy Leal,
and the much-damaged tomb of Archbp. Oonsalo de Af€n«(d. 1401).
^^ The Cap. de Eicalas (Pi. 29) contains the cenotaph of Bishop
Baltasar del Bio (d. at Rome in 1540), a friend of Leo X., a relief
of the Day of Fenteeoat (1539), and two paintings by Luea Qior»
dano, '— < In the middle of the Oapilla dbl BAVTisTsnto (PI. 30;
best light hi the forenoon) is the huge Pilat or font, containing
the oil consecrated in Passion Week. On the wall hangp **St« An-
tony of Padua's Vision of the Holy Child, one of MutiUds master-
pieees, painted in 1666, and wonderfully fine in CQlouring,. The
figure of the kneeling saint was cat out of the loantas in Nor.,
1874 y. but it -was recovered at New York the following JFeV
tnary and has been skilfully replaced by Martinez Oubella of the
Madrid Mhseum. Above this picture hangs a B&ptlsm of Christ,
also by H^mUlo.
We have srtill to visit the Sagrario fentr. firom the Court of
Oranges oif by the Puerta del Sagrario, p. 403), begun in the baroque
style, 6n the site of the Sagrario ViejO, by Miguel Zwm&tfaga in
-1618 and finished "by Lorenao Fernandez de Igtesicwin 1662. It
is now* used as a parish-church. The building is 112 ft.- long and
60 ft. ulride, and it is spanned by a single bold vault; 75 ft. high.
The rotable by Pedro Boldan, brought 'from the old Fra^nciscan con-
vent (p. 409), includes a relief of the Entry into JerusiJeni and tn
altar-piece, the Descent from the Cross. The statue of St. Clement,
by Pedro I)uque Comejo] should not be overlooked. By a side^altai
is a *Statue of the Virgin by MontanSs^ formerly in the€apilla de la
Goncepci6n Chica. — Beneath the Sagrario Is^ the Burial Vault of
the Archbishops of Seville, With a handsome tetracotta altar, in the
Delia Robbia style, from the Capilla de la Granada (p* 402). *— The
walls of the Sacrfyiy^ with their beautiful azttlej^ij belonged orig-
inally to the Moorish mosque. i
.. b. The Central, Eastern,) and Northern Parts of thQ City.
From the N.W» an^le of the<)ourt o£ Oranges the bus^. Oalle de
Geneva leads to the Plaza db la CoKBinvotiSv {l^L £), 3) Ikurmerly
'named Plana de San Frandsco)^ surtounded with handsome balpanied
houses &n^ having the City Bial] on one. side ol it and the Audiencia
on the other^ It was in days of yore the fr,e4Uent scene ofvtouma-
mentfi, .bull-flghtB, oarniTal fetes, and e&eeutio<)s. The Isatsuto
PL d, S, Femcmdo. SEVILLE. 43. RiiuU: 409
de f4 was held heie on April 13tliy 1660, the actual bnrniiig takit)^
place (as msual) on the Quemadcfra at Tahlada (oomp. p. 93). . >
The ^Gaia de Ayvntamiento (PK £, 4) or Caaat CapituLares
(City Hall)^ ai handsome Renaissance ediflce^ erected abottt 1526''64:
from the designs tit Diego de Riano and restored in 1891, occupies
tlie whole of the "W. side of the plaza. The other and more modem
facade is turned towards the Plaza de San Fernando (see below).
The S,p. part of the building is very ornate and justly passes as
one of the most cha;rmipg creations of the plateresque style. The
modern additions, easily recognizable as such, are far inferior.
I^TEaiOB (adm.^ see p. 391; main entrance on the E.). The ScUa Ga^
pituiar hav a handsome marble floor, and the Sola de 8trione» hae a magnl*
fiee&t yaulM ceiling, the 80 fields of which each contain the ttatue of a
Spaniab king. Above are reliefs of St. Ferdinand, the Archbishops Lean-
der and Isidore, the cardinal virtues, and other subjects. Round the frieze
runs a Latin inscription, from Sallnst. In the dt'M('o<«ca Mtmieipal is pre-
served the town banner (15th cent ), adorned with a Bgure of St, Ferdi-
nand on his throne. — The handsome modern staircase and the carved
doors also deserve attention.
The Andiencia (PI. E, 3), or Court of Justice^ contains a vesti-
bule with marble columns, a fine patio, and three handsomely decor-
ated rooms : the Sola de Inpicrnoy 8ala de Ferano,. and Sala de Abo-
gados (advocates). The executions (^celehrar lae juiticios^) took
place by a marble pillar outside, adjoining one of the windOwS. '.
The Plaza da San Pemando (PI. E, 4; once callecl the Tla%a
Nueva)j 165 yds. long and 100 yds. wide, occupies the site of the
old Franciscan convent and is the largest square in Seville. It is
surrounded by lofty modern buildings and is thickly sprinkled witii
orange-trees, date-palmis, marble benches, and the booths of the
'Aguadores'. A band often plays here on summer-evenings, and In
winter it is the focus of the festivities of iEe three last and great
days of the Carnival. At other times it is almost deserted.
The Franciscan convent that once stood here contained the famous
statae of Comemktdor UlUnt^ which plays so striking a r61e in the ^Don
Juan TenvrW of Oatmel TelUx <'Tir80 de Molina'; 1072-1643), and in
Uotmrii well-known opera (1787).
The *CaIiLb pb las Siebpbs (PI. D, E, 3, 4), the narrow but
extremely animated street running to the N. from the Plaza de la
Oonfitituci6n, is so named from the ^serpents' on the sigtf of a mesdn
or tavern. It contains the best shops, caf^s, and clubs of Seville,
and it is also the favourite evening-promenade, though carriages
are not admitted.-— Its prolongation, the equally narrow Calle de
Amor de Pios, leads to the Alameda de Bireules (p. 413).
The Oailo de G alleges leads to the E. fix>m the Calle de las Sier-
pes to 8an Salvador; other side-streets lead' to the Oasa de Exposi^
tos (p. 412) and the University (p. 411). Thel church of Ban Salva-
dor (Pi D, E, 3), a haifoque building of 1774^92, ocoupiesrthe site of
a moi^que. It has a fine dome, stained-glat^s windows, and riclly
gilded altars. By the first altar to the right Is an Eccef Horn©'' by
MariOo Q); toy the second to the right is a fine statue of Christ/ b
4i0 B6uie 43, SEVILLE. Caaa dt Pil<Uo8.
McmiuniM. In tlie eourt to the N. of the chiiroh is a chapel with the
Cristo de los Deaamparados (p. 259), a wonder-working crucifix. An
Arahic inscription, refening to the old minaret, ia immnred in the
lower part of the Tower, which is partly in the Gothic style.
About aOO yds. to the S.E. lies the church of Ban Isidoro (Fl. £, 3),
containing ^El Transito de San Isidore' (<.«. death of the saint), a cel-
ebrated masterpiece by Roelat, which Murillo studied carefully.
About Y4 M. to the E. of San Salvador, at the end of the Calle
de Aguilas (with several fine patios], lies the Plaza de Pilatos.
Here stands the so-called *Casa de Pilatos (PI. E, 2; adm., see
p. 391), formerly the property of the Dukes of Alcald and now that
of the Duke of MedincteeU, This interesting edifice seems to have
been begun by Morlsco architects for Don Pedro Enriquet de RU>era
at the beginning of the 16th cent and was completed under his de-
scendants, Don Fadrique Enriquta de Bibera (d. 1535) and Don Per
Afan de Ribera (d. 1571). The last adorned it with the antiquities
and paintings he had collected while Viceroy of Naples. Don Fa-
drique had made a journey to the Holy Land, and this gave rise to
the popular name of the house, the people believing it to "be an inii-
t^tion of the house of Pilate at Jerusalem. Moreover, it was con-
nected with the Cruz del Campo (p. 419) by a 'Route de Calvaire'.
Don Fernando Enriquez de Bibera^ the third Duke of Alcala, estab-
lished the once famous library of this palace and added considerably
to the collection of antiquities. He also made his house the social
centre of Seville, and numbered men like Oispedes, the Herreras,
Oongora, Bioja, and Cervantes among his guests. During the poli-
tical upheaval of 1843 the palace was converted into a powder-
magazine and was much damaged by the bombardment of Espar-
tero's troops. — The style of the architecture, called by Rafael Con-
treras Ul hdroco de drdbe\ shows a curious and yet harmonious
combination of Moorish, Gothic, and Renaissance elements. Most
of the rooms are elaborately adorned with the finest azulejos.
A rich marble portal leads into the Pa<to, which is suxroanded by a
double arcade supported by 25 marble columns. In the middle is a foun-
tain with dolphins and a head of Janus. Round the sides are pieces of
ancient sculpture, including a statue of Cere.«i, two of Athena, and 24 busts,
mostly much dilapidated, of celebrated men of antiquity. Over the en-
trance Is a bust of Charles V. To the right of the patio is the so-cailei
Prctetorium of Pilate, with the Apostles' Creed on the doors. At the back
of the court are a vestibule, with superb azulejos, and the Cfunpel^ a
charming room with Gotho-Moresque decoration and a reproduction of
the column at which Christ wa» scourged (the gift of Pope Pins V.). A
magnificent staircase, roofed by a much-admired dome (m«(2ta narcinja)^
ascends to the upper floor, the rooms of which (not all shown) have
generally been modernized. The most interesting are the O^dwcM, with
ceiling-paintings of Daedalus and Icarus by Fra»ei*co Pa<A€e&. — The Gar-
den, containing antiquities from Italica, is seldom shown.
From the Plaza de Pilatos the Galle de Caballerizs(s (Ne. 2 has
a fine patio) and its prolongation, the Galle DescalzoS} lead to the
N.W. to the attractive PLAZAiDB AboObllbs (PL D, 2, 3). At the
N.W. uigle of the plaza stands the church of San ?edra» a Opthic
Vniveraty. SEVILLE. 43. JBoute. 4U
stractuTe of the i4th cent., on the site of a mosque. ItB chief fsatares
of interest are the fine wooden ceiling, an altar with paintings by
Pedto Campana, and a picture by Roelas (St. Peter fireed by the
angel). The tastefVil campanile has galleries and open-work windows.
Streets running to the N. and N.E. from San Pedro lead us to
the church of San Marcos and the Convento de Santa Paula. On the
way, in one of the side-streets, the Calle de Duefias (Pi. C, 2, 3), is
the so-called Caaa del Duque de Alba, a palace (once of great extent),
begun by the Pinedas and completed by the Riberas (p. 41G) about
1483. It shows the same mixture of styles as the Casa de Pilatos.
The church of Ban Marcos (PI. C, 2), a Gothic structure erected
in the 14th cent, to replace a mosque , has an interesting portal in
the Mud^jar style. The ♦Tower, which is quite Moorish, was often
ascended by Cervantes, to look round for his beloved Isabella.
The Convento de Santa Faula (PI. Oj 2), a Hieronymite nun*
nery established in 1475, also deserves a visit. In the fore-court,
adjoining (but not attached to) the church, is a handsome Oothic
* Portal y bearing the yoke, quiver, and motto (*tanto monta') of
the ^Catholic Rings' (pp. 119, 171). It is eharnungly adorned with
reliefs of saints by Pedto MUlan and terracotta ornamentation by
Francesco Nteuloso of Pisa, resembling the Robbia work of Florence.
The Church ha» fine Gothic vanlting, and Its walls are lined inside
with a2ulejos' of Triana, which are among the best of the 16th cen-
tury. The statues of 8t. John the Evangelist and John the Baptist,
at the two altars, are ascribed to Montaiiia (p. lix).
We return to the Plaza de Ajrguelles and proceed thence to the
W.', through the short CaUe d«Imigen, to the spacious Mereado
iPl. D^ S), formerly named the Plasa de la Encarnaci^n. At the
S.W.) comer of the market and. th^ Calle de la Unlversidad rises
the 0nl¥0rtity (PI. D, 8), founded by Alfonao the Learfud in 1256
and greatly extended by the 'Catholic Kings' in 1605. The medical
faculty has its seat at Cadiz (p. 440), while Seville has to content
Itself with the Escuela de Medicinaj founded in 1888 in the secular-
ized convent of the Madre de Dies (PI. E, 2). The rooms of the
university contain many interesting pictures and busts. Thus, in
'the Sola de Ados are half-length portraits of St. Francis of Borja
and Ignatius. Loyola by Alonso Cano, a. St. Dominic by Zurbarany a
St. Jerome in the style of Quinten Matsys^ and a Holy Family
ascribed to Bubens (f). ~ The Unhersity Library, founded in 1838,
is iniigniflcant (adm., see p; 392).
The UNrrBBsiTY Ohuroh (entered from the quadrangle; door-
keeper Ya-l p.), built in the Renaissance style for the Jesuits by
Bariolomi Bwtamante{i) in 1565-79, contains a large number of
admirable pictures and statues. The retablo of the high-altar in-
cludes an Adoration of the Magi and a Presentation in the Temple
by Roelas; an Adoration of the Shepherds by Juan de Varela; a«
Annunciatidii by PoeAeco; St. John the Evaagelist and John '
412 Route a, SfiVIXJ^. Foundling ffo^tal.
Baptist by Alonto Cano; and statues of SS. Franeis of 9orj«. (leftj),
Ignatius Loyola (right), Petei, and Paul by Montanes (the last two
doubtful). On the tabernacle of the high-altar is a. small Holy
Child by Roehu. To the left of the high-altar is the brass of
Franciico Duarte de Mendicoa (d. J554) and his wife CaiaUna de
Alcocer. The left transept contains an altar-piece by PacJ^o, and
the monument -of Lorewo Suaren de Figueroa (d. 1409), brought
from the suppressed Gonvento de OabalUros de Santiago. In the
right transept is the tomb of Bendio Arias Montano (1627-98;
p. 115). In the nave axe the monuments of Pedro Enriqutz de
Rihera (d. 1492; left) by Antonio Apiile, and oi his wife Catalina
de Riberoy by Pace Gazini of Genoa. On the floor between them is
the brass of Per Afan de Ribera (p. 410). There are also numerous
less important monuments of rectors , scholars , and members of
the ibidem and Ponce de Leo» (p. 438) fainilies> .
The Oalle de la Universidad ends on the W. at the Callb db i.a
GuNA , Nos. 3 and 5 in which (both to the left) have fine patios.
The first is the Palace of the Marquif de MontiUa , a descendant of
LorenKO Poro or Lcntrenee Poore, a Scotsman who was the first to
ascend the Qiralda after the surrender of -Seville and shared iii the
Repartimiento (p. 396). A little farther on, also to the left (No. 13),
Hes the Casa Provineial de Ezpofitos (PI. D, 3)« or Foundling
Hospital^ founded in 1558 and popularly known as La Cuna ('the
cradle' ; visitors generally admitted, fee to attendant 1 p.). The
infants laid on the 't»mo' are brought up here till they are six years
old, after which they are sent to the HospieioPtovinoial (orphanage
and poorhouse) to learn a trade. The axrangenientB are interestiiig,
especially the Casa de X<a6tfirfici«(^milk<*house'). FiHeen Mermanm
(Sisters) manage the institution, one of whom is on constant duty
at the 'tomo', day and night The name of the motfaAx who leaves
her child here is not demanded.
■ In the N. part of the town theve ase a few other churchea of interest.
Santa Iiuoia (PI. B, 1), now used as ..a storehouse, has. a fine Gothic portal
and an ancient Moorish minaret. — San Julian (PI. B, 1, 2) has an altar
by Alejq Fernandez (p. 401) and • a larfee St. Christorpher by Juan SaPehez
de Castro (1484). — The rich Gothic portal of Santa Karina (PI. B, 2)
exhibits the earliest Christian seolptnres in Seville. The tower and two
chapels in the interior are relict of an old mosque^ — The church of
Omnium Sancteztim (PI. B, B), built by Peter the Orael, has a tower
adorned witii singular frescoes. Xa Ferifi^ the street passing the W. side
of this churoh^ is the scene of a busy rag-fair on Thursday (^La Feria del
Jueves'), especially towards its S. end. .
Between the two former gates, the Puerta del Bol (P!. B, C, 1) and
the Pu^'ia de'Cdrdpba (PL B, 1), and to the N.W; of the lattev. are pre-
served, two fragments of the ancient ^Cifiy WaUt with imposing towers
and a low breast-work (barhacaua) on the outside. The city-walls of
Seville had once a circmtiferenbe of upWards of 10 M. , wfere piensed by
12 gates, and were strengthened by 166 towers.
.••To the X. of the city, outside tl^eFiiwia dela Macarena (tramway, see
p. 388), which was modernized in 1723, lies the BoBpital (Jl^l (PI. A, 2),
popularly known as the Hospital de las Cinco Lkiffai (*of the five wouqds
of Christ') or de la 8emgre. It la one. of the largest instittttiqns of the
Santa data. SEVILLE; 43, Route,, ^l^
land in Eniop*^ tlte S. facade l^axing » lenf tU of ISO yds. wnd the W. facade
of iTOyds. The hospital was founded In 1600 by Fadrique Enriquet de
Bibera (p. '410). in the Galle de Santiago, and wm transferred In 1569 to
the present Wlding, Greeted by Mai*tiiii €Mnm and HtiiMn Ruie, It was
GOBsiderBhly extended in 1842. The G^UB0B, with the arms of the Riberas
and a relief of Caritas ascribed to Pietro Torrigiani (?), contains eight
pictures of female saints by Zurbaran^ an Italian Madonna of the 16tli cent.,
and two pictares ^j Ro^la* (Apotheosis of St. Henneaeetld and Descent of
the Holy Ghost),. — Further to the "S, are th^e large Cementen'o de San
Fernando y used by Roman Catholics, Jews, and Protestants, and the
former convent of San Jerdnimo , with the Bn^Wh Fi'otegiant Citneiery anvt
a glass-faotory.
e. n« WMtem, Squill -Wostevn, and South -Saateni Parts of
the City,
From the N. end of the Calte de lasSierpee (p. 409) the Galle
de Campana leads to the Plaza dbl DxKKm Dii la Yio«6bia (PI.
D, 4; p. 86), which is planted with orange-trees. In the middle
of the plaza riuses a Bronze Statue of Velazquez, by Susillo (1892).
On the S, side once stood the large palace of the Dukes of Medina
Sidania. The former house of the Soliees (No. 7) was the home of
Calderon's 'Mrfdico de sn Honra'. In the honse of the 7dlos (No. 5)
is said to have lived Sancho Ortiz de la Roetct , the hero of Lope
da Vega's tragedy *La Estrella de Sevilla'. No. 11, formerly the
Palacio del Marquis de Pa/omares,. now a house of business, hasr
fine patios, staircases, and rooms. I'he plaza itself was the scene of
maiiy tournaments and public festivals, as well as of bloody frays
between the hostile families of Medina Sid'onia and Ponce de Leofi.
The Cdlle de Amor de Dios, forming a prolongation of theCalle
de las Sierpes, and the Calle de Trajano, the parallel street to the
W., beginning at the Plaza del Duque de la Victoria, end to the N.-
iTi the shady but little frequented Aluneda do Hdtoniea (PI. B, 3).
At the S. end of thii^ promenade are two high Roman Qranite CoU'
umns (eomp. p. 401), placed here in 1574 and bearing statues of Her*
cules and Julius CsBsar. The Monuments at the N. eiid are modern
and devoid of interest. The so-called 'Velada^ (p. 391) are cel-
ebrated In this alameda.
In the Gallb db Santa Clara (No. 32), to the W. of the Ala^
meda, lies tbe nunnery of Santa Clara (PI. B, 4), founded by St.
Ferdinand and modernized in the 16-1 7th centuries. It contains
some good sculptures by Martinez Montan^s (p. lii). The *Torre
de DonFadrique^ a late-Romanesque (1262) structure in the convent
garden, belonged to the palace of Fadriqne, brother of Alfonso X.
The large gate at the N. end of this street belongs to the nunnery
of Ban Clemento el Boal (PI. A, 4)^ also founded by St. Ferdinand
and largely rebuilt in 1770'-71. It rose over the ruins of the Fi6-
Ragel(mb ar-Radjul?), the former residence of the Benl 'Abbad
(p. 395). The church , with Its beautifal artesonado celling and
exquisite azulejos of 1588, Goutains itatues of SS.- Bernard and
Benedict ascribed to Montan^s (at the high-altar), a statue of Johr
414 Route 43. SEVILLE. Museo PrOvindiidt
the Baptist ascribed to Oaspar Nunez DdgadOy and the unpretending
mural monument of Maria of Portugal , wife of Alfonso XI.
Opposite the S. end of the Oalle de Santa Clara Ilea the church
of fan Lorenzo (PI. B, C, 4), containing several good work* of art.
Among these are an Assumption hy Paeheeo; a Holy Family by
Pedto ViUeffos MofnwUjo (16^0-97), who is buried here; a statue
of St, Lawrence (1639) and four reliefs by MontanSs (at the high-
altar), and a figure of Our Lord, hnown as Nuestro Seflor del Gran
Poder, by the same. In the choir is an old marble dgure of the
Yirgen del Carmen (14th cent.); and adjacent, on the N. wall, is an
old mural painting of Nuestra Sefiora de Roeamadoc (p^ Ixii), -^
From the Plaza de San Lorenso the Calle de Capuchinas runs to
the S. to the pretty Plaba db Gatidu (PI. C, 4), with its Statue
of Luis Daoi% (p. 94) byi^uBiUo.
As a starting-point for our walk through the S.W. quarters of
the town we may select the small Plaza dbl Pacifioo (PI. D, 4),
with its orange- trees and large hotels (see p. 387). From the S.W.
angle of the plaza we follow the Calle de San Pablo (which ends at
the Triana bridge, p. 420) as far as the church of Santa Magdalena
and then turn to the right into the Calle de Bailen. From this In
turn we again diverge to the right, a little farther on, and follow
the Calle de Miguel de Carvajal to the Plaza dbl Musbo (PI, D, 5),
in the middle of which stands a Bronze Statue of Mwrillo by Sabiuo
Medinia, cast at Paris by Eck & Durand (1864). On the N. side of
this plaza, at the corner of the Calle de San Vicente, lies the Eng-
lUh Church (see p. 389). On the W. side stands the Museum.
The *]IttMO PrOTincial occupies the old Convento de la Mereed^
founded by St. Fezdinand in 1249. It includee the Academia de
Bellas Artes (established 1849), the Museo Arqueoldgieo (established
1867), and the Beture Gallery. Adm., see p. 391.
The museum originated in the storm that raged over the con-
vents in 1835, when Dean Manuel L6pez Cepero contrived to collect
the best conventual paintings under the protection of the Cathedral
Chapter. The archsological treasures were almost all dug up at
Italica (p. 421). Both collections are smalL The picture-gallery
contains only about 200 paintings, but 23 of these are by Murillo,
including some of his most celebrated works. Several of l^e M urillos
came from the Capuchin Convent (PI. A, B, 1), which was destroyed
in 1835. There axe also ten pieces of sculpture.
We traverse a small patio and enter the larger cloisters, contain-
ing the ANTiauiTiBS (all marked with descriptive labels; catalogue
only for the Roman Inseriptions). These include fragments of
columns, capitals, tombstones, well-heads, amphorae, statues, imper-
ial busts, azulejos, and Arabic inscriptions. From the front wing
of the cloisters we pass to the right into the Boom Qf the Comisidn
HTuseo Pfovineial. SEVILLE. 43. Route. 415
de Monumentos HistSricOB y AttC^ticos, with a fine wooden ceiling
and a few portraits of artists. In front of us is the Picture Oaltery.
The *0oiiLHeTiON op Piotijkbs (re- arranged in 1893; catalogue
in preparation) is somewhat unsatisfactorily disposed on the walls
of the old convent-church. The Murillos are all in the nave. —
S. wall of the Nate. Montafi£$^ Wooden figure of St. Bruno ; ValdSa
Leal^ 1. Conception, 2. Assumption, 3. Temptation of St. Jerome,
4. St. John leading the Maries to Mt. CaWarf, 13. Betrothal of St.
Catharine, 5. St. Jerome scourged by angels ; •14. MwiUo^ Concep-
tion. — *15. MuriUOj Virgin and Child, known as the Virgen de la
ServUleta, because the master Is said to have painted it for the cook
of the Capuchin monastery on a napkin. It is one of the painter's
best-kaowft works. The colours are so thinly laid on as hardly to
conceal the texture of the linen. The manner in which the white dra-
pery is handled Is very characteristic. — Mtirtflo, 16. St. Augustine ;
17. Conception (small) ; 18» St* PeUx of Cantaliclo with the Holy
Child (half-figure) ; 19. SS. Juste andRufina protecting theGlralda
in a storm; *20. Annunciation; 21. SS. Leander and Bonaventura
(finely handled drapery); 22. St. Antony of Padua with tlie Holy
Child* — 44. Raekid, St. Anna and th« Virgin.
End Wall. *45. Roelas, Martyrdom of St. Andrew, one of the
pal uteres masterpieces (1668-1625); Herrtra the Elder, 46. St.
Basil with Christ and the Apostles, 51. St. Hermenegild; 59. Pablo
de Ciipedes, Last Supper.
N. Wall (lower row). MuriUo, 23. PietJi; 24. JSt. Peter Nolasco
kneeling before the Virgin; 25. St. Augustine and the Trinity;
26. Conception. — ♦♦27. Muriilo^ St. Felix of Cantaliclo holding
the Holy Child in his arms, of the best period of the master and
deemed by many authorities his greatest work. It is painted in the
so-called tftilo vaporoio, — ♦♦28. MuriUo, St. Thomas of Vll-
lanueva distributing alms. In this work , which Murillo himself
termed par excellence 'mi cuadre*, the contrast between the ecstatic
form of the saint and the commonplace realism of the beggars is
very finely indicated. — MuriUo , ♦QO. Conception (large) ; ♦30.
Adoration of the Shepherds; ♦Si. The crucified Saviour embracing
St. Francis ; ♦32. St. Antony with the Holy Child ; 33. St. Augus-
tine on his knees before the. Virgin and Child ; 34. John the Baptist^,
35. Joseph and the Infant Jesus; 36. Virgin and Child. —N, Wall
(upper row). 60, 61, 76. Francitco Pacheco, Legend of St. Peter
Nolasco ; Juan del Castillo , 77. Visitation , 78. Adoration of the
Magi, 79. Assumption, 80. Adoration of the Shepherds, 81. Annun-
ciation. At the corner: ♦P. Torrigiani (see below). Virgin and
Child, a group in terracotta.
In the transepts are also a few modern pictures. N. Transept.
♦Af. Ramirez i Execution of Alvaro de Luna (p. 137); Alcataf
Tejedor, The First Mass (1887); 116. Martin de Vos, Last Judg -
ment; 121. Zvrbaran; La Virgen de las Cuevas, with Carthusif
416 Route 43, SEVILLE. Mmeo PravmciaL
monks (p. Ixxii). — > **PUlro Torrigiani^ Statue of St,. Jerome,
fwm the Hieronyipite Convent (p. 413), modelled in teiracotta
(harro cocido) and oolouied. This is one of the masterpieces of the
gifted Floxentine (h. 1470), who hroke Michael Angelo's nose when
they were fellow-students, executed the splendid mon^unent of
Henry VII. in Westminster Ahbey\ yiaited Granada in. the h^ope
of a similar commission (see p^ ^0), and Anally died at -Seville
(1522) in the dungeons of the laqudsition. The saint, kneeling «nd
half-naked, gMes with deep^et eyes at the cruoifl^. in his left
h«nd, while he beats his hieast with a stone held in the other.
The fine play of the mi^soles in^ the emaciated yet powietfnl hody,
^nd the profoundly, thoughtful expression of the head air^ delineated
in a most masterly fashion. — SoliSy Figures of Justice a^dPrndence.
S. Transept. VirgUiQ Mattoni^ De^th.of St. Ferdinand; 139. Zur-
i)ar(fny St. Hugo witii Carthusian monks (elMUagrd del aanto voio);
FruXet^ Virgin and Child, Descent from the: Cross ; Som, Statues (rf
Courage and Temperance j •JVToniflw^ff, Wooden figure of St. Dom-
inie, one of th«. sculptor's paaster pieces.
Choir. Zufharan, 123. Holy Child malting a crown at thorns;
124. Crucifixion; 125. Christ crowning St. Joseph; 126. St. Panzoiu
, — *127. Zurbaran, Apotheosis of St. Thomas Aquinas, one of the
.chief works of this fertile master. At the top are Christ, the Ma*
donna, St. Paul, andStiPomitiic; towards the middlOftfe St. Thomas
and the four Latin Church Fathers; below are Charles V. andAtchbp.
Deza. The head behind the emperor is believed to be a portrait of
Zurbaran. The picture we* taken by the French from the Oolegio
de Santo Tomas, but was afterwards sent back from Pari^. — Zur^
haran, 128. St. Louis Beltram ; 135. St. Bruno befbre the Pope;
137. God the Father; 129, 133. Crucidxion; 130. St. Francis.
*Montan48y Wooden flgnxes *af the Virgin and Child (La Virgen de
las Cuevas) and John the Baptist.
Old Sscristy, adjoining the S. Transept. 14^. ilZonso Canot
Purgatory; 150. Fi^mUhSchooly Vieil.
By following t^e Caixe db Ai.»>N8o Doob (PI. D, 5 ; fine patio
at No. 17) towards the W. from the Plaza del Museo, we soon reach
the site of the Puerta Real, the Ooles Qate of the Moors, by which
St. Ferdinand entered the city in 1248. Here we have a view of
the Babida Peombnadb (PI. D, E, 5) lind the EaiaeiSn de Cdrdoba
(p. 387), beyond which rolls the QuadAlquivir ; crossed by the
Huelva Railway Bridge (1879) and a new bridge leading to Triana
and La Cartuja (pi 420)*
TbiQ Barrio de lot Humero* (PI. C, B, 5) was formerly oticupi^d en-
tirely by gipsies. Those who care to follow the neglected promenade
along the railway to the suburb of Macarena (p. 39B) may still stumble
on many a figure that looks if it bad stepped out of the ^Rineonete y
Cortadillo' of Oervantes or one. of the canvases of Murillo. A fia.e viaw
is enjoyed of the unpccupied. right bank of the river and the hills above it.
We follow the Rabida towi^rds the S.E. and turn to the right
Ho«p. d. I. CaHdad. SEVILLT!. 43. Route, 417
into the Oalle de los Reyes Gatolicos, the prolongation of the Galle de
San Pablo (p. 414). This brings us to the Marina (PI. E; F, 4, 5),
with the harbour. — To the left rises the large Frison (Cdrcel;
PI. E, 5), with its azulejos and grated windows, which often appears
in the picaresque tales and dramas of Spain. Farther on is the
huge Plaza de Toros (PI. F, 4, 5; p. 389), and still farther on is
the Plaza de Atarazanas (PI. F, 4) , occupying the site of the
Moorish wharf and adjoined by the Hospital de la Caridad , the
Ma^tranza or Artillery Arsenal^ and the Aduana.
The ^Hospital de la Caridad (PI. F, 4; adm. , see p. 391;
church worth visiting In bright weather only, best light in the after-
noon) is now an infirmary under the care of Sisters of Charity. The
original building (1698) on the site was the church of St George,
belonging to the still extant Hermandad de la Caridad, the special
function of which was to administer the last services to those con-
demned to death and to provide for their burial. Miguel de Manara,
a Sevillian Don Juan in his youth , but afterwards converted and a
friend of Murillo , had the church rebuilt by Pineda in the baroque
style (1661) and erected the hospital. He then withdrew to his
foundation and was finally buried here at his death (1679). His
tomb in the church is inscribed ^^enizas del peor hombre que ha
habido en el mundo' ('the ashes of the worst man in the world').
Glazed frames in the 8aJ>a de CahUdo contain MaSlara's and Mu-
rillo's autograph-requests to be admitted to the Brotherhood , the
sword and death-mask of the former, and portraits of the Hermanos
Mayores ('Elder Brethren'). The facade of the Caridad is adorned
with fayence mosaics from designs by Murillo. — The two handsome
Patios contain marble statues of Misericordia and Caritas.
From the first court we pass through a small door to the left into the
Church, which, in itself of no interest, contains six celebrated **Piotube8
BY MuBiLLO, painted for the Caridad in 1660-74. On the side-wall to the
left is the Cuadro de Ins Aguas, known as La 8ed (^Thirst"). Below this
is the Jn/ant Saviour, Farther on are the Annunciation and 8an Juan de
Dios aided by an angel in bearing a sick man into the hospital. On the
right side hang the large picture of Christ feeding the Five Thousand^ known
as Pan y Feces, and the Young John the Baptist. The two large works are
hung high and very properly, as their sketchy and hroad treatment is
calculated for being seen from a distance. The composition of the 'Thirst'
is masterly and shows that Hurillo in this respect also is on the highest
level of his art^ Hoses stands beside the rock, from which the water
gushes, while the parched crowd hastens eagerly to partake. In the
MLioaves and Fishes'* the landscape is treated with much more respect than
is the wont of Sevillian masters. 'La Sed' is widely known through
Esteve^s engraving (1839). The Laurent photographs are good.
At the W. end of the church are some singular paintings by Juan
Valdis Leal (1630-91) , bom at Cordova and one of the founders of the Art
Academy of Seville (p. 414). Above the choir is the Raising of the Cross.
On the wall to the right is the Triumph of Death , with the inscription
'tn ietu oeulC, To the left are the Dead Bodies of a Bishop and a Knight
of Calatrava, with the inscription ^Finis gloria mundC, All three are
painted with the most repulsive realism, but at the same time with
astonishing brilliancy of colouring. In looking at the dead prelate, MuriP
is reported to have said 'Leal, you make me hold my nose' , wherf
Baedeker's Spain. 27
AiS Route 43. SEVILLE. Pal de Santelmo.
Le»l retorted, ^Well, you have taken all the fleah aod left me nothing bat
the bone«\
The high-altar to the E. haa a relief of the Deposition in the Tomb,
by Pedro Roldan.
On the brink of the Quadaiqaivlr , at the S. comeT of the Plaza
de Atarazanas , rises the Torre del Oro (PI. G, 4), originally one
of the towers of the Moorish Alcazar (p. 397) and afterwards used
by Pedro the Crael as a treasure-house and prison. It is now the
CapitanCa del Puerto. The dodecagon al and embattled lower sec-
tion was erected by Oovemor Std Abu'l-Ald in 1220, under the
Almohades. The upper section dates from the Christian period,
and the balconied windows were not inserted till 1760. The Moors
named it Burdj ad-Dhdhab, or golden tower, from the colour of its
azulejos and in contradistinction to the silyer tower (Torre de la
Plata) in the neighbouring Galle de Ataranzas (taken down in 1821).
Most of the sea-going vessels anchor off the Torre del Oro.
To the S.E. lies the ^Taseo de Cristina (PI. G, 3, 4), a prom-
enade much frequented on cool summer-eyenings. Like the De-
licias (see below) , it was laid out in 1830 by Josi Manuel Arjona.
On the opposite side of the Paseo de Santelmo (see below) are the
Jardines de la Piierta de Jerez, with the Teatro de Eslava, The
gate itself has been taken down.
In the Paseo db Santelmo, skirting the S.E. side of the Paseo
de Oristina, stands the Falacio de Santelmo (St. Elmo; Pi. G, 3 ;
adm., see p. 391 ; entr. on theN.E. side), originally erected by An-
tonio Rodriguez in 1734 as a naval academy. In 1849 it became the
property of the Due de Montpensier (d. 1890), son of Louis Philippe
and brother-in-law of Isabella II., and afterwards of his widow,
the Infanta Maria Luisa (d. 1897). The palace has no architectural
interest beyond the lofty baroque portal on the N.W. front, but it
should be visited for its sumptuous internal equipment. Most of
its celebrated treasures of art have lately been removed to San lA-
car de Barrameda (p. 426). The Jardin del Paletcio de Santelmo
(PI. H, 3) has beautiful trees, grottoes , and ornamental plants. At
its S.E. end are statues of twelve famous Sevillians by Susillo.
The larger half of the Santelmo Gardens was presented to the
city by the Infanta Maria Luisa in 1893, and now, under the name
of the *Farque Maria Luisa (PI. H, 2, 3), forms one of the most
popular public resorts, especially in spring. Its roses , camellias,
and oranges make a splendid show. — The "^Faseo de las Delicias
(PI. H, 3)., beginning at the Fuente de AbarUco (*fan fountain'),
descends along the river to the S. W. of the park. This promenade,
which is always frequented on flue afternoons by numerous carriages
and pedestrians, ends to the S.E. in a ^rondel', with the Villa
Eugenia and the Recreo del Paraiso (p. 388). A little to the left is
the *Eritana Restaurant, with a pleasant garden. Beyond the rondel,
and close to the river, are the Hipddromo (p. 390), the Cycling Track,
\d the Tiro de Pichones (for pigeon-shooting).
Ftibr. de Tahacoa, SEVILLE. 43. Route, 419
We rettini towards the town by the aveiiue of palms between
the Santelmo Gardens and the Parqne Maria Luisa. To the right
extends the Prado de San Sebastian (PL G, 1, 2), the scene of the
Feria (p. 391), and beyond it is the Estacidn de Cadiz (p. 387);
to the left are the Artillery Barr€iek8^ built on to the Tobacco Factory.
The F&brica de Tab4co8 (PL G, 3 ; adm. , see p. 391 ; entr. by
the large gate in the Calle de San Fernando) is an immense, two-
storied baroque building, erected by Wandeniburg in 1767 at a cost
of 9,000,000 p. It encloses several courts and its sides are re-
spectlYely 200 yds. and 160 yds. long, so that it coyers more ground
than the Cathedral and the Court of Oranges. It is , however , only
55 ft. high. On the portal are busts of Columbus and Fernando
Cortes and several reliefs ; at the top is a figure of Fame. About
5000 Cigarreras are engaged here in the manufacture of tobacco
and snuflf (polvo de Stvilla; tahaeo de fraile); and a skilful worker
can easily finish 8-10 atados, or bundles of 50 cigars, daily. The
work-rooms are very badly ventilated , and no one should visit the
factory for pleasure unless he can Ignore dirt and evil smells.
We now follow the Pasbo del Pino (Pi. G,fF, 2), at the end
of which, to the right, are the large Cuartel de Cahallerta (cavalry
barracks) and the Matadero , or Public Slaughter House. The road
diverging to the right, between these two buildings, leads to the
busy Barrio de Seen Bernardo , where there is a large FundiciiSn de
ArtillerCa (PL F, 1), or cannon-foundry.
There is no object in farther following the somewhat neglected
promenade, which follows the line of the old city- wall (p. 412).
In the Paseo de Recared is the Presidio or Penitentiary (PI. E, 1),
in the buildings of an old Augustine monastery, the church of
which contains tombs of the Ponce de Leon family (p. 433).
The Calle de Oriente (PI. E, 1) leads across the Tagarete and the rail-
way to the Oruz del Campo. a ^humilladero' or chapel in the form of a
small temple , erected in 1482. It is the goal of the *Roate de Galvaire'
mentioned at p. 410. Here, too, are seen the long *C<Mot de Cfarrnwma, the
ancient Roman aqnednet, enlarged by the Almohades in 1172. Like the
new conduit, constructed hy an English company in 1886, this aqueduct
supplies Seville with water from a brook near AlcaU de Guadaira (p. 422).
If we turn towards the town at the Cavalry Barracks (see above),
we at once enter the Jaderia^ or former Jews' quarter, one of the
oldest parts of Seville. The church of Santa Mabia la Blanca
(PI. E, F, 2) was a synagogue down to 1391 and was rebuilt in the
17th cent, in the baroque style. Its altar-piece is a Piet^ by Luia
de Vargas, The left aisle contains a much darkened Last Supper by
MuriUo , and the right aisle has a small Ecce Homo by Morales, —
In this quarter, at No. 7. Plaza de Alfaro (PL F, 2), is Murillo's
House (now the property of Don Jacobo Ldpez Cepero'), where the
great painter died on April 3rd , 1682. His room is still shown ;
and the house also contains some good paintings by MuriUo , Mo -
rales J Ribera, Zurbaran, and other masters. The frescoes in th^
27*
420 Soute 43, SEVILLE. La Cartuja.
garden are probably by Vergara. Morillo^s grave was in the adja-
cent ohurch of 8a$Ua Cruzj which has been torn down; th^ site is
marked by a small monument.
d. Triaaa and the Bight Bank of the Oaadalqnivir.
The Puente dt Triana or de Isabel Segunda (PI. F, 5), an iron
bridge constructed in 1845-52, a little below the site of the ancient
Moorish bridge -of -boats, connects Seville with the suburb of
Triana, which lies on the right bank of the Guadalquivir and is
inhabited almost exclusively by the lower classes and gipsies. Ad-
joining the bridge is the Mercado (PI. F, 6), which affords a good
view of Seville. The Calle de San Jacinto, with the same axis as
the bridge , intersects the suburb from N.E. to S.W. It is the ter-
minus of the tramway mentioned at p. 388. — By keeping to the
left, we reach the church of ♦Santa Ana (PI. F, G, 5), a building
erected by Alfonso the Learned in the Gothic-Mudijar style. The
retablo of the high-altar includes 15 paintings by Pedro Campana
(1548) and a statue and reliefs by Pedro Delgado. The aisles con-
tain other paintings by Campana and AUjo Fernandez , and on the
trascoro is the charming Yirgen de la Rosa by the latter. Between
the Gapilla de Santa Barbara and the Cap. de Angustias is a fine
tomb by Francesco Niculoao (p. 411).
Triana, the Roman Trajana and the Moorish Yarayana^ has from
time immemorial been the potters' suburb of Seville. According to
the legend SS. Justa and Ruflna, who were martyred on account of
their refusal to sacrifice to the Punic Venus, kept a small potter's
shop here. The best azulejos in the churches and palaces of Seville
were made at Triana. The last outpost of this industry is now to
be found a little to the N., in La Cartuja (PI. B, 6), a secularized
Carthusian convent dating from 1401 . The English firm of Pick-
man ^ Sons founded a 'Fabrica de Productos Ceramicos' here in
1839, which provides the whole of Spain with common porcelain
(agent in Seville, Calle de Madrid 4). The factory contains a
good collection of old Spanish majolica. The Convent Church has a
fine Mud^jar portal. The interior contains some remains of the
baroque silleria and a Visigothic inscription relating to the death of
St. Hermenegild (p. 394), found at Alcala de Guadavia. On the
wall of the church are marked the heights of some of the avenidas
(comp. p. 393), from which Triana suffers still more than Seville.
The new bridge (PI. D, E,^) is mentioned at p. 414.
e. EzcnrBionB from Seville.
1. To Italica (5 M. ; carr. 8-10 p., with two horses 15 p.,
bargaining necessary). From the suburb of Triana we follow the
Aracena road, leaving the Cartnja to our right. The road, generally
very dusty, runs towards the N.W.
Excwrsiona. ' SEVILLE. 43. Route. 421
33/4 M. Bantiponce, a poverty-stricken village, probably named
after theVisigothic bishop, San Geroneio, It contains the seoularized
convent of San Isidobo del Oampo, founded in 1298 for the Cister-
cians by Alonao Perez de Otuman (*E^ Bueno>; p, 377) and handed
oyer to the Hieronymite Friars in 1434. The buildings are now
partly used as a factory. The cloisters, once famous for their superb
marble columns, have recently been almost entirely destroyed. The
church contains a fine rotable by MontanSs, with statues of S.S. Je-
rome and Isidore and numerous reliefs. The recumbent figures of
Guzman £1 Bueno and his wife Dona Maria Alfonso Coronel, on
their tombs, are also by Montanea, Adjacent is the tomb of Dona
Urraca Os6rio, mother of Juan de Albar de Guzman, who was burned
by order of Pedro the Cruel. At her feet rests her devoted waiting-
woman Leonora Dabalo, who threw herself into the flames that were
consuming her mistress. — At a venta, at (8/4 M.) the end of the
village, the road to (V2 M.) Italica diverges to the left.
Italica may also be reached by a short walk from Camas (p. 428), on
the railway to Huelva.
Italica lies at the foot of the range of hills sheltering Seville
on the W. (see p. 392), near the Cala, a tributary of the Guadal-
quivir which perhaps occupies the ancient bed of the latter stream.
Scipio Africanus founded the town, on the site of the Iberian Sancton,
as a refnge for his veterans. * Scipio milites omnes vulneribus de-
biles in unam urbem compulit, quam ab Italia Italicam nominavit*^
(Appian). It was at first an independent municipium, and after-
wards a colonia directly subject to Rome. As the birthplace of three
Roman emperors (Trajan, Hadrian, and Theodosius) Claudian says
of it ^haec general qui cuncta regenV, The place, named Tdlika by
the Moors and afterwards Sevilla la Vitja^ was absorbed by New
Seville, for which it long served as a quarry.
The road leads direct to the Roman Amphitheatre (fee to the
keeper 1/2-I P-)- ^^^ upper part of the structure is very dilapidated,
especially the tiers on the N. side j but the corridors, the dens for the
wild beasts, and other features can still be made out. The guide also
shows the niche which is said to have contained the statue of Julius
CsBsar mentioned at p. 413. The hill a little to the N. commands
an extensive view of the fertile camplna, La Algaba (p. 392) and
the Sierra Morena (N.E.), the high-lying Oarmona(E.), and Seville,
backed by the Sierra de Mor6n (S.E.). — A little to the W. lies
the Casa de los Banos^ with reservoirs supplied by Hadrian's Aque-
duct of Tejada (26 M. long).
In Oliv&res (abont 9 H. from Santiponce and a little nearer San
Lucar la Mayor, p. 423) the painter Roelaa died in 1626 in the office of
eanon. The church containa a Marriage Qf the Virgin, a Nativity, an
Adoration of the Magi, and a Death of St. Joseph by him, and also a
figure of the Saviour by MonUmit.
For CaiUUeJa de la Cuetta, San Juan dt AtnalfaracMy and 8an Mear
la Mayor^ flee p. 428.
% Fboh Sbvul? to Carmona, 27 M., rail, in 2 hrs. (two trains
422 Route 43. SEVILLE.
aauy ; ifties 4 p. ou c, a p., i p. lo c. ; retuin
75 c). As far as (91/3 M.) Aleald de Guadaira
Vj hr. ; fares 1 p. 90, 1 p. 30, 80 c; returi
oO 0.). The trains start from the Estaeidn de
dally ; fares 4 p. 50 c, 3 p., 1 p. 76 c. ; return 6 p. 50, 4 p. 50, 2 p.
! Guadaira four trains daily foa.
return 3 p., 2 p. 26, 1 p.
Cadiz. — Carmen* is
also the terminus of the branch-railway from Quadajoz (p. 304).
Aleali do Ouadaira, the chief intermediate station, is a to'wn
of 7300 inhab., on the right bank of the Quadaira. It is popularly
known as Aleald de los Panadores (^Bakers'), because of its 200 mills
(atahonai), driven by water or mule-power, which supply Seville
with its bread. The decayed Moorish CaetUj taken by St. Ferdinand
on Sept. 28th, 1246, contains subterranean grain-magazines (mas-
morrae; p. 267) and several cisterns (alj&es). The Torre Moeha was
added by the Spaniards. The small church of /San Miguel was origin-
ally a mosque. The churches of San Sebcutidn and Santiago contain
paintings by Pacheco. The altar of the church of the ConverUo de laa
Monjas has six reliefs by Montafi^s. At the MoUno de la Mina begins
the old aqueduct of Seville, the first part of which is underground,
while farther on it is continued by the Cams de Carmona (p. 419).
Cannona {El Beetawantj Plaza de San Fernando, unpretend-
ing), the Roman Carmo and the KarmUna of the Moors, an ancient
town with 15,800 inhab., has been Spanish since Sept. 21 st, 1247,
but still preserves a half-Mooiish character. It occupies the summit
of a ridge rising high over the fertile vega to the E. , watered by
the Corbonesj and the valley of the Guadalquivir on the N.W. Its
annual Feria (April 22nd) is much frequented. — From the Seville
railway-station, 1^2 M. below the town (omn. 50 c), we enter it by
a massive Moorish Gateway. The church of San Pedro has a tower
resembling the Giralda (p. 400). Adjoining the Moorish patio of
the church of Santa Maria lies the small Musbum of the Archsolog-
ical Society, including gigantic fossil oysters and other prehistoric
objects, and Roman and Moorish antiquities (catalogue 60 c).
Among the Roman remains are several fine portrait-heads and
mosaics from the necropolis (see below). The loftily situated Alcd-
zar has a beautiful Moorish portal. The towers command a view of
the whole plain of Andalusia, extending on the N. to the Sierra
Morena, on the S. to the Serrania de Ronda (p. 369). On the road
to Cordova there is an interesting Renaissance Gate, the lower part
of which dates from the old Roman days.
To the W. of the town lies the Roman *Necsopoi.I8, discovered in
1881 and explored mainly through the exertions of Mr. Oeorge Bontor, an
English painter (tickets of admission , 1 p. each , obtained at Calle de
San Pedro 47, below the Moorish gate). The tombs are arranged in groups
over the hillside. The sepulchral chambers are excavated In the rock
and reached by vertical shafts. All of them contain niches for the ciner-
ary urns, and many of them seem to have been connected with mausolea
above ground. Some still retain the cement-ground for the (vanished)
paintings. A few of the tombs have large vestibules, with trielinia for
the funereal banquets. The finest is the TricUnio del Ele/ante^ named
'.fter a stone elephant (a symbol of long life) at the entrance.
423
44. From Seville to HnelYa* La Eabida. Palos. Bio
Tinto Mines.
63 M. Railway (two trains daUy) in 4-4V2hrs. (fares 13 p. 95, 10 p. 75,
6 p. 65 c). Trains start from the Ettaei^ de Cdrdoba (p. 387).
Seville, see p. 387. — The train crosses the Guadalquivir by
an iron bridge. — li/4 M. TWana (p. 420). — 3 M. Camas^ which
is about 1^4 M. from JtaUca (p. 421), is also the best starting-
point for a visit to the high-lying Castilleja de la Cuesta, which
affords an admirable view of Seville.
Bentdn CorUt, bom at Medellin (p. 465) in 1485, died at Castilleja on
Dee. 3nd, 1547. His bones were first interred in the Convent of San
Isidore at Santiponce bnt now rest in Hexieo. The house in wbieh he
died (No. 66 Galle Real) is now royal property •, it contains some views
of Mexico and other pictures, and a few twigs of the tree near the City
of Mexico under which Cortes passed the ^noche triste' (see Baedeker^t
United States). — From Castilleja we may go on to —
San Juan de Ainalfaraehe (p. 4S5), the Moorish Hitn aUFaradJ, on
the Guadalquivir. Under the Romans as JvHia Con^antia, and under the
Ooths as Oa§eij it was the key of the river. The high -lying convent
church of ^S^ Juan has a font, which fills itself miraculously with water
in Passion Week. The village is a favourite resort of the Sevillians.
8 M. Salteras, the Roman Paemla, is the station for those who
wish to take part in the Romeria of Torrijos (see p. 391). — 12 M.
Villanueva del Ariacal. — 15 M. San iMcar la Mayor is an attractive
little town in the district called by the ancients the 'Garden of Her-
cules*. Its most interesting features are the Puerta del Sol and a
tiled Moorish tower resembling the Giralda (p. 400). About 7 M.
to the N. lies Olivdres (p. 421). — 16 M. Benacazdn. At(21V2 M.)
Asmalcdzar we cross the Guadiamar, a tributary of the Guadal-
quivir. — 251/2 M. Huivar; 28 V2 M. Carridn de los Cespedes; 32 M.
Escacena; 39 M. Villalba del Alcor; 43 M. La Palma del Condado,
in a wine-growing district; 45 V2 ^- Villarrasa.
49 M. Niebla, the Roman /^rpto, lies on the Rio Tinto and has
the remains of an old castle and walls, as well as some interesting
Moorish houses. The narrow-gauge line to the Rio Tinto Mines
p. 424) diverges here. — The railway now follows the Rio Tinto all
the way to Huelva. From (60 M.) San Juan del Puerto^ at the head
of the Tinto estuary, a branch-railway runs to (16^2 M.) Zalamea.
68 M. Huelva. — Hotels. Hotel Madrid; Albion Hotel (English land-
lord) i Hot. de la* Cuatro Nacionet; Fonda del Nuevo Mundo. — Oeorffe WakelWs
English Rettanrant.
British Vice-Oonsul, E.Diaz, — U. B. Consnlar Agent, JohnR. Catlin
(also Lloyd's Agent). — Dr. Maeka^if^ English physician. — EngUsh Church
Service in ihe Calle del Duque de la Victoria.
Huelva^ the ancient Onuha^ a thriving town of 18,000 inhab., and
the capital of a province of its own name, is favourably situated on
an inlet of the Gulf of Cadiz, near the mouths of the Rio Tinto and
the OdUl. Its inhabitants are engaged in fishing and the making of
esparto matting, but its prosperity is mainly due to the fact th»^ '
is the shipping port for the ores of the Rio Tinto and Tharsis ir
424 Route 44. HUELVA.
Wine ifl also exported. Huelva is well-built, and its climate makes
it an admirable winter-resort. The Roman Aqueducty for centuries in
ruins, has recently been repaired and now supplies the town with
water. Two large Piers have been constructed for the shipping trade.
From Huelva an excursion may be made by small boat (2-3 hrs.}
to La Rabida and Palos. — The Franciscan convent of Santa Maria
la Babida, said to occupy the site of a heathen temple, stands on
the left bank of the Rio Tinto, overlooking its mouth. Its main in-
terest is derived from its connection with Columbus, and it is now
preserved as a national monument.
Columbus seems to have first visited the convent in 14%, on his first
arrival in Spain, when he was kindly received by the young monk Frcty
Antonio Marchena^ who listened eagerly to his schemes and undertook the
care of his son Diego. In 1491 the disappointed Columbus again' repaired
to La Babida to reclaim his son before setting sail for France. Fortun-
ately, however, Fray Juan Perez^ the prior of the monastery and once
confessor to Queen Isabella of Castile, recognized the folly of allowing
Columbus to leave Spain, set off at once to use his influence with Isabella,
then in the camp before uranada, and persuaded her to recall the illustrious
Genoese and give him another hearing at court (comp. p. 331). — A
reproduction of the monastery of La Babida was erected in 1803 at the
World's Fair of Chicago, and may still be seen in that city, where it is
now used as a sanatorium for children and their mothers.
A row of 1 hr. up the Rio Tinto brings ua to the small harbour
of Pales 4^ 1ft Frontera, also on the left bank of the river. It was
from this port that Columbus sailed on Aug. 3rd, 1492, on his
voyage of discovery with his three small vessels , the Santa Maria,
the Pinta, and the Nina, Here he landed again on Mar. 15th, 1493,
having discovered the New World. Cortes also landed at Palos in
1528 after his conquest of Mexico. Palos is now an insignificant
village.
From Huelva to Minas de Bio Tinto, 62 M., narrow-gauge railway
in 4V4hrs. (fares Up. 70, 7 p. 90, 4 p. 90c.). — The railway diverges at
Niebla (p. 423) from that to Seville and runs to the N. along the Bio
Tinto. The old town of(52M.) Minas de Rio Tinio is close to the mines,
and visitors provided with an introduction will find no difficulty in obtain-
ing accommodation. There are also three or four separate villages for
the miners, one of which is devoted to Englishmen and has an Bnglish
chapel. The Bio Tinto Mines are, perhaps, the most valuable copper
mines in existence. They were probably worked by the Phcenicians and
were certainly known to the Bomans, of whose presence traces still exist.
Between the Boman period and 1725, when they were leaded to a Swede
fiamed Wolters, the mines were little exploited. Their real importance
in modern times began in 1872, when they were acquired from the Spanish
government by a syndicate of London and Bremen capitalists, at a cost
of nearly 4,000,0002. The mines occupy an enormous area, and a district
of about 8 sq. M . is covered with heaps of slag and refuse, while vege-
tation has been killed for many miles around. The ore, which is found
near the surface, is iron pyrites, containing about 60 per cent of' sulphur
and 3-4 per cent of copper. Upwards of one million tons of ore are raised
annually, producing 20,000 tons of copper*, the greater part is sent to
England for treatment, but large quantities are also calcined on the spot
The district is inhabited by about 12,000 people, of whom 10,000 are em.
ployed in the mines or on the railways. There are 60 M. of railway in
the mines, above and below ground. Comp. *9pain of To-Day', by W. B,
lawson (Blackwood & Sons^ 1890).
CORTA. 46. Route. 425
Another mineral railway connects Huelva with the Mines of Tharsis,
30 M. to the N.W. These were also worked by the Phoenicians and
Romans and have recently been again exploited with the aid of British
capital. The name has probably some connection with the Biblical Tarshish
(comp. p. 294).
Huelva is also connected by railway with (112 M.) Zc^fra and (153 M.)
Merida: comp. p. 459. — Steamers ply between Huelva, Cadiz (p. 434),
and Malaga (p. 32 1.
45. From Seyille to Cadiz,
a. By Steamer vilk San Ldcar de Barrameda.
The large Dbsp-Sba. Steaubbs ply only once a week from Seville to
Cadiz direct (ca. 8 hrs.)) &nd their days and hours of departure may be
ascertained from Antonio Milkm^ Calle Duque de la Victoria 2, duplieado.
— The small River Steamers mentioned at p. 387 ply twice weekly to
San L^iear de Barrameda (6L M., in ca. 6 hrs.). From San Lticar a Railway
runs to (47 M.) Oadiz vift Jerez (p. 428), and another and somewhat shorter
line viH Chipiona and Pturto de Santa Maria (p. 432). — The passage from
the river to the ocean beyond San Liicar and also the rest of the sea-
voyage are very imposing , and the view of Cadis from the sea is very
fine. On the other band, the railway-journey round the interesting Bay
of Cadiz is also very charming. Bad sailors will prefer the land-journey
in spring or autumn, but the sea is usually quite calm in summer.
The steamer follows the winding course of the Guadalquivir in
a general S. direction. To the left lie the Ddieias (p. 418) and the
Race Course^ to the right is the suburb of Triana. A little farther
on is San Juan de Aznalfarache (p. 423). To the right is a hilly
district; to the left, farther on, stretches the interminable level of
the Marismas or salt-marshes (p. 427). In the distance, to the left,
are seen Dos Hermanas (p. 427) and Utrera (p. 427). On the right
bank, amid orange-groves, lie Oelves and C6ria. The latter, once
a Roman potters' town, is still celebrated for its 'tlnajas*. It is the
goal of the small local steamer mentioned at p. 387. Coria is ad-
joined by Mertina and the flshing-village of Puebla junto d Coria.
The river divides into the Brazos (arms) de Este, del MediOy and
de la Torrey which form the Isla Mayor (right) and the lala Menor
(left) among the marismas. The former, named Kaptal by the Moors,
is now used for the cultivation of cotton (algod6n). La Cortadura or
Canal de San Fernando^ cut through the Isla Menor, abridges the
voyage by 11 M. The Corta de loe Jerdnhnoa saves 10 M. more.
The steamer follows the Brazo del Medio , which unites with the
Brazo del Este below the Isla Menor and assumes the name of Brazo
de Tarfia. The scenery is very desolate, animated only by an occa-
sional herd of bulls or a flock of wildfowl. On the distant foot-hills
to the left lie Las Oabezas de San Juan (p. 428), Lebrija (p. 428),
and Trebujena (p. 428). Farther on, the Brazo de Tarfla unites with
the Brazo de la Torre or W. branch, a little above the point where
the three provinces of Seville, Cadiz, and Huelva (right bank) meet.
The river here is 2 M. wide, and the banks are covered with pines.
The water is already brackish. On both sides are extensive salt-pans
{salincu; p. 433), with narrow water-channels (canos).
426 Route 46. BONANZA. From SeviUe
After a long interval appears Bonania, a small town ou the left
bank, named after the chapel of the Virgeii de la Bonanza ('good
weather) , erected by the S. American Company of Seville. The
strand of Bonanza is celebrated by Cervantes, in 'La Ilustre Fregona'.
as the resort of smugglers, pirates, and other ruffians. Bonanza is
the starting-point of the under-mentioned railway to Jerez, and is
about 272 M. from San Ltjcar. To the N. stretches the Algaida
(Arab. *de8ert'); the river-bank, with its ^ixnes (arenas volader as J
and marismas, has now all the characteristics of a sea-beach. On
the other side are the Punia del Malandar, and the end of the Arenas
QordaSf a chain of dunes running to the N.AV. as far as La Rdbida.
61 M. San Ltiear de Barrameda (Fonda BaUesieros), a town of
20,700 inhab., situated amid the dunes and named in honour of
St. Luke, carries on a brisk trade in exporting sherry, manzanilla,
and other wine. It was taken from the Moors in 1264 and granted
to the father of Guzman el Bueno (p. 377), but did not become of
Importance until after the discovery of America. The Portuguese
mariner FernSLo de Magalhdes (Magellan) sailed from this port- in
1519 for his journey round the world, with an expedition fitted out
at Seville. The town is protected by forts and possesses many villas
with orange-groves and palms. Its admirable sea-baths are much
frequented by the Sevillians. The only 'sights' are the Hospital of
St, George, founded for English seamen by Henry Ylll. in 1517,
and the Palace of the Duchesse de Montpensier, with its celebrated
treasures of art. — The sand-hills are covered with vines, said to
have been originally imported from the lihineland, and produce the
excellent Manzanilla wine. On the landward side the town is shel-
tered by a pine-wood. A fine ocean-view is enjoyed towards the W.
Fboh Bokanza and 8an Lv car to Jerez, iS'/s M., railway (four traiBa
daily) in about 1 br. (fares 8 p. 75, 2 p. 40, 1 p. 46 c). — The line runs
towards the 8.E. 9H. Las Tahlas. At (14i/sM.) Aleubilla it intersects the
S. spurs of the sandstone range of ihe Sierra de San Cristdbttl. — 15Vsltf-
Jerez^ see p. 428.
FsoM San Lvcar to Puf.bto de Santa Mabia, 24 M., railway (two
trains daily) in about IVs hr. — The line follows the coast to the IH.W.
lo (&V2 ^) Torre de Chipiona^ with a large lighthouse, tiie light of which
is visible for a distance of 28 nautical miles , and with a ^apel of the
Virgen de la Regla^ the black wuoden image of which is held in great
veneration by mariners. — The line now runs to the S.E., skirting the sea.
Beyond (d M.) La Ballena it passes the Punta de Candor. — 141/2 M. Eota,
a town of 7800 inhab., pleasantly situated at the 8.W. end of the spacious
Bay of Cadiz, the shores of which are inhabited by about 200,000 people.
Ruta is the vegetable market of Cadiz and produces a dark-red wine
(vino tin(illo), used in England for sacramental purposes under the name
of Tent Wine. — Farther on we see to the right the forts of La PuntiUa
and Santa Catalinaf in the distance are the white houses of Cadiz. —
24 M. Puerto de Santa Maria (p. 432).
Beyond San Lticar the steamer crosses the bar of the Quadal-
quivir. To the right, on the Arenas Gordas, rises the Torre de San
Jacinto, On arriving off the Torre de Chipiona, the steamer's course
is changed to the S.E. Beyond the Punta de Candor and the small
to Cadiz. UTRERA. 46, Route, 427
town of Rota (p. 426) we obtain a magnificent view of the Bay
of Cadiz, with the above-named forts on its N. Bide. At its head
are the Trocadero and San Fernando (p. 433). Cadiz itself rises to
the S.E., a dazzlingly white vision, like *a castle in mid-ocean*.
The steamer leaves the reefs of Las Puercas and Los Cochinos
(p. 436) to the right and anchors in the open roads of Cadiz (p. 434).
b. By Bailway vik Utrera and Jer^E.
95 M. Railway (two ordiDary trains daily) in 4V4-5 brd. (fares 18 p. 20,
13 p. 36 c, 8 p.)' The express leaving Seville on Taes., Thurs., & Sat.
(see p. 300) takes S^z hrs. There are also local trains between Seville
and Utrera and between Jerez and Cadiz. The trains start at the EetaeUn
de Cadi* (p. 387); there Is a railway-restaurant at Uirera. — Beyond Jerez;
the best views are to the right.
Seville^ see p. 387. — The line runs to the S.E., through an
exuberantly fertile district of oranges, olives, and pomegranates,
Intermixed with patches of heath and palmetto-scrub (p. 227). The
train crosses the Ouadaira. On the other side of the Guadalquivir
rise the heights of San Juan de Aznalfarache (p. 423) and Coria
(p. 425). — 9 M. Dos Ilermanas, with the attractive country-villas
of the Sevillians. To the S.E. are the hills of Moron (p. 387), the
Sierra de Algodonales, and the lofty steeple of Utrera.
I9V2 M. Utrera (L(6n de Oro; Fonda del SarUisimo; Rail, Re-
staiurantjy a well-to-do town with 13,400 inhab., mainly engaged in
agriculture, cattle- rearing, and sheep-breeding. During the time
of the wars between the Spaniards and Moors, and even later,
Utrera was such an asylum for fugitives from justice as to give rise
to the saying ^matale y vete d Utrera' ('kill him and go to Utrera').
The principal church of SarUa Maria de la Mesa or de la Asurhcidn
has a conspicuous tower of the 18th cent, and contains the tomb of
Diego Ponce de Leon. In the church of Santiago is preserved one
of the thirty pieces of silver for which Judas betrayed his Lord.
Outside the town is the Ccnvento de los Minimosj where a church
festival and feria mentioned at p. 391 take place in honour of the
Virgen de la Consolacion.
Prom Utrera to Cordova via Afarcfiena and Edja^ gee p. 319 5 to Boba-
dilkt vi4 Marehena and La Roda^ Fee B. 42.
Beyond Utrera the landscape changes its character. The train
descends to the S.W., crossing the Arroyo de la Ardigua^ to the
plain of the Guadalquivir, which it reaches at (27 M.) Alcantarillas.
Near the station we see to the right the Roman bridge, with its
towers, and (in the distance) Palacios, The small river, which
farther on forms a caiio (p. 425) of the marismas, is the Salado de
Mor6n. Farther on the line intersects several mountain - spurs,
affording a good insight into the character of this singular district.
The plain of the Guadalquivir below Utrera forms a Marfenuty or saline
allavial district, 25 M. long and 10 M. broad. In winter it is a marsh
• in summer a dusty, dark-brown heath. The few cottages float, as it w
in this bog •, sometimes a farm-house is perched on an island-like e)
tion. It is used as pasture for the 'toros braves' of the arena an<'
428 Route 46, JER^Z. FromaevilU
herdi of browoish-black sheep, which thrlre on the saltwort and reeds.
In summer the whole tract is a veritable desert, and the late aatumn is
its real spring, which continues through the mild winter. The crocus
blooms in January. From the MontcMeu <M Pinal ^ to the S.E., dfesoend
seyeral brook3, which are often absorbed by the marisma before reaching
the Guadalquivir. Several mountain-spuri, of tertiary formation, project
into the plain, and support a few villages, surrounded by palms, olives,
and vineyards. The railway touches some of these.
^Geologically, the marismas are the deltas of great rivers, the alluvial
accumulations of ages, deposited, layer upon layer, on the sea-bottom
till the myriad particles thrust back the sea, and form level plains of dry
land. The struggle between rival elements doe) not terminate, but the
attacks of the liquid combatant only seem to result in still further as-
suring the victory of terra firma^ by banking up between the opposing
forces an impregnable rampart of sand. The latter, overlying the margin
of the rich alluvial mud, is thus capable, in its hollows and deeper dells,
of sustaining a luxuriant plant-life, which in turn serves to fortify and
consolidate its otherwise unstable consistency' ('Wild Spain", by A. Chapman
and W. J. Buck).
The marismas abound with water-fowl of all kinds, and flocks of 600
flamingoes may be seen at once. There is said to be a herd of wild
camels in the marismas to the W. of the Guadalquivir, descended from
some imported in 1829.
34 M. Las Cahezas de San Juan^ a small town on a pointed hill,
2 M. to the left of the railway. Farther on Trebujena (see helowi
is seen to the right. — To the left rises the lofty tower of (46 M.)
Lebrija, built in the 18th cent, in Imitation of the Giralda. The
prosperous town, with 11,700 inhab., was the Nebrissa Veneria of
Pliny and the N^isha of the Moors. The Principal Church, origin-
ally a mosque, contains a retabb by Alonso Cano and the 'Mariquita
del Marmolejo', a headless Roman status now regarded as the Virgin
Mary. In the cloisters is a crucifix, by Mon tafias (p. lix).
The railway now traverses the alluvial Marismas de Lebrija^ where
some attempt at cultivation is made , and enters the province of
Cadiz. — 62V2 M. El CuervOj the station for Trebujena^ a wretched
little town 3 M. to the N.W. (right). To the left, 6 M. off, are the
remains of the Moorish castle of Melgarejo and the Carthusian con-
vent of Gigonza.
"We traverse a hilly, grain producing district and then the Llanos
de Caidinaf a shaggy heath with pines and dwarf- palms. In its
midst lies the hippodrome of Jerez, which was the cradle of horse-
racing in Spain. As we approach the town we pass groves of olives,
vineyards, cactus-hedges, villas, a cemetery, and the bull-ring.
— 621/2 M. Jera.
Jer^z. — The Railway Station lies at the K.E. end of the town. Hotel
Omnibuses and Cabs (tare 1 p , at night 2 p., luggage V^-l P- i more with
two horses) meet the trains. There is also a Tramwajf to the Plaza de
Alfonso Doce (15 c).
Hotels. *FoNi>A D£ LOS CisNBs, Calle Larga 58; Fonda de Jxafiz,
Calle de las Naranjas 10^ La Victobia, Corredera 1, unpretending. —
Restaurants and Cc^6s at the hotels.
Post Office, Calle de Corredera. Telegraph Office, Calle de Medina B.
Consulates. British, H. Seymour Daviesf U. S. A., Lennart NUson^ Tor-
•ia 11.
to Cadiz, JEBJ^Z. 46, BouU, 429
Theatreti Galle de Mesones and Alameda Vieja. — Bull Bing (comp.
p. zxvi), to the X. of the town, with excellent corridas during the Feria
(May Itt).
Chief Attxaotions (one day). Horning: Flaxa de Al/onto Doce; San
MigtUl; Alcazar; San DionUio and Cabildo Viejo ; Bodega of Gonzalez^
Byau^ Jb Co. In the afternoon: excursion to the Cartuja.
Jerez (160 ft.), or Xtres de la Frontera, contains 49,000 inhab.
aud is the third city of Spain in point of weaith. Its white wine
is known all over the world under the name of Sherry (the Sherris
of Shakespeare; a corruption of Jerez, which is pronounced 'hereth'),
and millions of gallons of it are stored in the bodegas of its opu-
lent wine-merchants. The general appearance of the town, with
its shady promenades and whitewashed houses, is yery clean and
attractive.
History. Jerix^ the Yisigothic Ceret^ is first ntientioned hy historians
as the seene of the decisive struggle between the Visigoths and the Moors
in 711, when the chivalry of Christian Spain went down before the Moslem
after a battle lasting for several days. The most recent research, however,
places this battle, not on the Guadalete bat on the Sedado, at a point
near Capo Trafalgar (p. 886), between Vejer and Conil. The reconquest of
Seville (p. 385) by St. FercUnand also brought about the capture of Jerez
(1251), but the latter fell into the hands of the Moors again twice over,
in spite of the heroic defence made loi 1261 by the Castilians Oarci Odmee
Carrillo and Forttm de Torre. After its ultimate capture by AJfomo the
Learned (Oct. 9th, 1264) Jerez played a prominent part in the struggle be-
tween the Christians and the Moors. In 1362 Peter the Cruel (p. 395) caused
his wife Blanche de BouH>on to be murdered here and interred in the
Franciscan convent. In 1379 it received the surname de la FrotUera, like
other towns on the £. border of the Moorish possessions. The ^Catholic
Kings' befriended the town, and its prosperity was continuous. In recent
days great havoc has been wrought at Jerez by the yellow fever, but the
completion (1869) of the Actteducto de Tempiil (29 M. long), which brings
an abundant supply of pure mountain - water, has greatly improved the
health of the town.
From the railway-station we follow the Oalle de Medina to the
S.W. and then take the third cross-street on the left, leading to the
attractive Plaza de las Angustiaa. Thence the Corredera runs to the
S.W. to the •Plaza db Alfonso Doob (formerly named the
Plaza del Arenal)^ one of the finest public squares in Andalusia,
with its fountain and tall palms. — A little to the N., on the site
of the former Franciscan convent, stands the Mercado Central. The
short Galle de Santa Cecilia leads to the S.£. to the church of *San
Higueli a Gothic edifice erected in 1482 et seq. (sacristan's house
to the S.E. of the church ; fee Y2-I pO* The W. facade, with its
elaborate columns, has been modernized. Over it rises a handsome
tower, the upper part embellished with azulejos. The side-portals
are still Gothic.
Intebiob. The fine piers at the crossing, with their superb canopies,
consoles, and entablature, deserve special attention. The vaulting with
its deep cells recalls the cathedral of Seville. The stained-glass windows
are set in the richest Gothic tracery. — To the N. of the transept is the
SagrariOf with handsome doors by Berruguete. The Capilla de la En-
carnacidn has a fine altar. The large retablo of the Coro is adorned with
reliefs from the New Testament by MorUcOi&s (1625).
From San Miguel we proceed to the S.W. to the Plaza Fobtbn
430 RouU46. JER£Z. FromSevilU
DE To&KB (formerly the Alameda Vieja^j another pleasant promenade
where a hand often plays in summer. The somewhat nninteresting
view comprizes the hilly country to the S.W. — On the N. side of
the plaza stands the Aloizar, the only relic of the Moorish period,
now in the hands of the Duke of San Lorenzo (not always accessible ;
porter in the court, to the left; fee 1-1 VaP-)' ^* shows the usual
mixture of palace and fortress. The Torre del Homenaye and the
Octagonal Tower afford good views of the town and its environs.
The SaUSn del Trono is the finest room.
On the W. side of the plaza are the huge bodegas of Gonzalez,
Bycus, ^ Co. (see below*) and the Colbgiata, a baroque edifice
erected by Cayon (p. 441) at the close of the 17th century. The
library of the latter contains the Monetario (collection of coins) of
Diaz de la Guerra, Bishop of Siguenza, a native of Jertfz. The sum-
mit of the slender Torre de San Salvador, the detached bell-tower
of the Golegiata (147 steps ; fee 25-50 c), commands an excellent
view of the town, the Sierra de San Cristobal (p. 426) to the W.,
and the hills round Arcos to the £. The sea is not visible.
The Calle de la Princesa, beginning near the Golegiata, leads
to the N. to the church of San DiorUsio, in the plaza of the same
name, a Gothic-Mud^jar edifice of the time of Alfonso the Learned.
In the same square stands the old town-hall, now the Cabildo Yiejo,
a Renaissance building by Andres de Ribera and others (1575 et
seq.), with a facade adorned with coats-of-arms and statues. It
contains the BibUoteca Pdblica Municipal, founded in 1873. — A
few yards from this plaza lies the Plaza de lot PlaXerot,
The other sights of Jerez are of less Importance. They include
the churches of Santiago, San Mateo, San Juan de las CahaUeros, and
San Lucas, and also the Hospital Munieipcd, in the old Convento de
la Merced, to the S.W. — At the S.W. extremity of the town is the
Depdsito de las Aguas, the storage basin of the aqueduct mentioned
at p. 429. Adjacent are the attractive grounds of the Plaza deEguilaz.
Visitors are usually admitted to the celebrated *Bodegaa on applica-
tion between 9 and 4. Among the largest and most celebrated are those
of Gonzalez, Bj/au, <Cr Co. (see aboye), Pedro Domecq (Plaza San IldeFonso),
Manuel Mi$a (Calle de Don Juan), and Oarvey A Co. (Calle de Guadalete).
Visitors are taken round by a clerk and are invited to ^sample" the various
brands. The bodegas contain enormous quantities of wine, some as much
as 10-20,(XX) hdtas (butts). In that of Gonzilez are shown casks named
Christ and the Apostles, Methusalem, E. 1.8. (<.«. Bast India Sherry, which
has made the voyage across the line), N.P. U. (Non Plus Ultra), Oloroso
Muy Viejo, and Vino de Jesu Cristo. The cooperage attached to this
bodega employs 200 men. In Domecq's bodega is an enormous cask named
Napoleon. — The environs of Jerez are planted with vineyards, covering
an area of 150,0J0 aranzadas (i65,(XX) acres). The most celebrated are
those of Domecq 9ki Maehanudo (sumamed El Majutlo) and Pemartin. From
700 to 1000 vintagers are sometimes - employed on the former.
The finest excursion from Jerez is that to the 'Oartaja, a secularized
Carthusian convent which lies on the Guadalete (p. 431), 2Va M. to the
S.B. The route to it leads from the station through vinei^rds (saddle
horse ca. 5-6 p. •, carr. dear). — The convent, founded in 1477 by Alvaro
to Cadin, ARCOS. 46, BouU. 4^1
Obertos de Valelo of Genoa and secularized in 1886, is now partly used as
a stud (Depdsito de Caballot SementcUes). It is in a most lamentable con-
dition bat possesses many features of great interest. The superb ReneUs-
sance Fafode of the convent, now completely isolated from the rest of the
buildings, was built in 1571 by Andria de Ribera. Beyond a grass-grown
patio we reach the Gothic Churchy with a richly decorated facade added
in 1687. In front of the high-altar is the tomb of the founder. The finest
of the three courts is the Patio Principal^ with its 24 marble columns and
azulejo bases. Adjacent are the Claustrillo, the Chapter House , and the
Be/ectoty, all more or less mutilated and destroyed.
From Jkbbz to Akcos, 17 M., diligence daily in ca. 3 hrs. The good
road crosses the Llanos de Caulina (p. 428), passes the tower of Melgarejo
(p. 428), and traverses the Llanos de Don Carlos. Finally we cross the
Salado de Arcos by the bridge named AlcantaHlla de Jerez and soon reach
Arcot (Fonda de JSetn Antonio)^ which, like Jerez, has borne the affix de la
Frontera (p. 429) ever since its capture by Alfonso the Learned (1264). The
town (14,000 inhab.) lies on the N. slope of a sandstone bluff (545 ft.), sur-
rounded on three sides by the Guadalete, and affords charming views of
the fertile plains of the Ouadulcte and MagaceUe (S.W.) and of the im-
l>05ing Cerro de San Cristdbal (p. 370^ E.). The rock contains numerous
cave-dwellings. In the Plaza de Ayuntamiento, at its highest point, stands
the Gothic church of Banta Maria de la Asuncidn, with a fine side-portal.
The unfinished tower (i2S ft.), with its ten famous bells, is modern. Ad-
jacent arc the Toun Hall, iha Palace of the Duke o/ Arcos, and the Theatre.
The church of San Pedro contains a handsome altar and some Moorish
banners laken at Zdhara (fsce below).
A road leads from Arcus along the Quadalete and through the (5 M.)
gorge o{ A'igostura to (7 If.) Bomot, a town of 5600 inhab., on the Sierra
del Calvario. It possesses a warm sulphur-spring named the Fuente de la
Sarna ('itch') and is a favourite summer-resort of the Andalusians.
Fkom Bonsros to Bomda (p. 370). This trip is recommended to those
who are fond of adventurous mountain-tours. One route leads via Prado del
Rey and El Bosque (between which are the Salinas de Hortales^ a rich salt
spring) to Qrazalema, the Lacidulia of the Romans, with 6000 inhabitants.
Another route ascends the Guadalete to Villcanarlin (good road thus far)
and then rnns via Puerto Serrano and Algodonaies to ZUiara (1700 inhab.),
a famous Moorish town, captured by the Spaniards in 1483. From Zahara
a mountain-path crosses to Qrazakma^ whence a diligence runs daily to
Ronda (p. 370). Or we may ride direct from Zahara to (15 M.) Bonda.
From Jerez to San Liiear de Barramfda, see p. 426.
The Uailway to Cadiz runs to the S. through the range of hills
on which Jerez lies, in a cutting 40-50 ft. deep. To the right we
see Jerez and the rich corn-flelds and vineyards of the valley sep-
arating it on the W. from the Sierra de San Cristobal (p. 426). To
the left are the jagged summit of the Atalaya and the supposed
battlefield of the Guadalete (see p. 429). The train crosses the
Rio Portal, a small affluent of the Guadalete, at the artificially ex-
panded mouth of which onoe lay the port of Jerez. Farther on we
run to the S.W., hugging the winding course ofthe Quadalete, This
river, the Leteo of the ancients and the Wdd al-Leded of the Moors,
often splits up into several arms and becomes navigable at the Car-
tiya (p. 430). A little farther on begins the Acuediicto de la Piedad,
which provides the villages of the district with the water of the
Guadalete. The railway follows the aqueduct all the way to Oadlz.
On the hill to the right are the Cortijo de la Atalaya (once a watc'
432 RouU 45, PUERTO DE S. MARIA. From Seville
tower') and the Castillo de Dona Blanea, the wife of Petei the Gmel
(p. 429). In the distance, to the S.W. , is *fair Cadiz, rising o'er
the dark bine sea'. The plain of the Gnadalete here hecomes a salt
marsh , and the general appearance of the landscape recalls the la-
goons of Venice.
74 M. Puerto de Santa Maria (^HoUl de Vista AUgre; British
Vice-Consul, J2. J. Pitman; U. S. Consular Agent, George M, Da-
niels'), generally known simply as El Puerto, is the Porttts Menesthei
of the ancients and one of the oldest settlements on the Bay of
Cadiz, which is here entered by the Guadalete. It is now an im-
portant seaport, with 18,900 inhabitants. The situation of the town
on the right bank of the river, opposite the pine -wood of Coto
(p. 433), with blue mountains in the background, is very picturesque.
The wine-trade is mainly in the hands of English firms, the Bodegas
of which are not less important than those of Jerez. The river pours
large quantities of sand into the bay. There is a large fleet of fishing
boats, and a vast quantity of fish is sent to Seville, Cordova, Bar-
celona, and Madrid.
The Calle de Ribera Rio leads from the station to the left to
(7 min.) the charmingly situated Hdtel de Vista AUgre, We,
however, in the meantime turn to the right, to visit the secularized
Convento de la Victoria, of the church of which little remains except
the handsome W.' portal. The convent and grounds have been con-
verted into a Convict Hospital, where invalids are sent from the
different convict prisons in the country. In the adjacent Paseo,
with its rich vegetation, we may watch a Ndria, or water-wheel, at
work. Thence we proceed to the W. , along the Plaza de los Jas-
mines, to the Calle Larga, the main street of the town, with the
houses of the rich wine-merchants , and to the New Town Hall,
From this point the Calle de Luna leads to the Alameda El Vergel,
with the above-named hotel, the Puente de San Alejandro, the old
road-bridge over the Guadalete, and the ships at anchor. Good
bathing is enjoyed here in summer in the salt-water at the mouth
of the river. — From the Calle de Vergel, prolonging the Alameda
towards the W., we proceed through the Calle Palacios to the Gothic
Iglesia Principal. To the right, farther to the W., is the church of
San Agustin. In the Plaza de la Peccaderfa stands the curious-look-
ing Castillo, the lofty walls and battlements of which date from the
Moorish period. At the end of the street we enjoy a good view of
Cadiz , 7 M. to the S.W. — To the N.W. are the Colegio, a Jesuit
institution for 500 pupils, and the Bvll Ring. To the N.E., on the
road to Jerez, are the Cementerio IngUs and a point of view called
Buenavista.
From Puerto to Roia and Sanl'dcar de Barrameda, see p. 426^ steam-
boat to Cadiz^ see p. 436.
A little to the S.W. of Paerto are the singnlar Navazo* ('depressions'))
a series of rectangular trenches enclosed by reed-fences, lying below the
a-level but protected by a chain of high dunes. The sea-water percolates
to Cadiz, SAN FERNANDO. 46. Route. 433
through the tand and keeps the soil moiat enough for the growth of vege-
tables, flgs, and almond'trees. Large boat-loads of green staff are sent
daUy to Cadiz.
The Railway Bridge across the Guadalete, 176 yds. in length,
affords a fine view of the town, the river, and the distant Cadiz.
To the right lie the pine-wood and salt-marshes of Coto. Near the
snspension-hridge of the old road the train crosses the Rio de San
Pedro, an arm of the Gnadalete, and then traverses a dreary district
of salt-marshes. — 77 M. Empalme de Trocadero,
From this station a branch-railway , nsed only for goods-traffic , rans
to (i^/sM.) Troeadero (^place of exchange'), a small Indostrial and fishing
town, on the CuUo de Troeadero. It enjoys a European reputation for the
vigorous defence made here by the Spaniards in 1823, with the aid of
two forts , to the French army under the Due d'Angouldme. It now con-
tains the large wharves (dique) of the Compania Trasatiantica. Steamer
to Cadis^ see p. 436.
79 M. Pnerto Beal (Fonda de Roma; ^Restaurant Mantilla), the
Partus Qaditanus of the Romans, rebuilt by the * Catholic Kings* in
1483, is now an unimportant town with 7000 inhabitants. It lies
in the innermost recesses of the Bay of Cadiz and is probably the
most ancient trading settlement on its shores.
The train skirts the entire bay in its curving sweep and inter-
sects the salt-marshes of the Salinas , where the salt, obtained by
evaporation from the sea-water, is piled in small white pyramids.
To the right are two water-towers , Carraoa (see below), and (in the
distance) San Fernando. We then cross a three -arched bridge
spanning the Canal de Sancti Petri, a narrow arm of the sea extend-
ing from the Moorish Castillo de San Romualdo on the Bay of Cadiz
on the N. to the Fuerte de Sancti Petri on the S. It thus forms the
Isla de Ledn^ which is named after the family of Ponce de Leon
and contains the towns of San Fernando and Cadiz.
86 M. San Vemando, an important town of 23,000 inhab. , lies
on a kind of rooky island amid the salt-marshes and was known in
the 15th cent, under the name of Isla de Le6n. During the War of
Independence the Cortes met here (1810-13) and changed the name
of the town to San Fernando (1813). It is now the seat of the chief
naval authorities of Spain. The main street, named Calle Real or
CaUe de la ConstUxjicidn, is about 11/4 M. in length. The naval
establishments and workshops, a naval academy, and other govern-
ment buildings are in the suburb of San Carlos, which was founded
by Charles III. and lies to the N., beyond the railway. To San Fer-
nando belong also the iron-foundry of CaserCa del Oslo and the arsen-
al of La Carraca (steamboat-station, see p. 435), founded in 1790.
The latter, 3 M. to the N.E.,.on the E. bank of the Canal de Sancti
Petri, covers, with its docks and wharves, an area of 164 acres. The
Pant^on de la Marina contains the tombs of naval heroes. — The
Observatorio, to the W. of the town, 82ft. above the sea, is the
southernmost observatory on the mainland of Europe (34' 10" long
W, of Greenwich). It is admirably equipped and deserves a visit.
BABDXkEB't Spain. 28
434 Route 46, CADIZ. Hotels,
Tbe Fuete Zuato, about 2^/iU. to the E. of San Fernando, on the
road to Algeeiras (for Gibraltar; diligence, see p. 495), ia said to be an
old Roman bridge, destroyed by tbe Moors in 1262 and rebuilt in tbe
15tb cent, by tbe Alcaide Juan Banchez de Zuazo.
At the Torre Oorda (left) tbe train turns to tbe N. and runs,
jparallel witb the road and the aqueduct, along the narrow^ flat, and
sandy spit that connects the rocky islet of Cadiz with the main part
of the Isla de Leon. At the narrowest point stands Fort Cortadura.
93 M. Segunda Aguada affords a view of the hippodrome, the Ccu-
tiUo de Puntales, and the manufactories on the £. side of the bay.
Farther on, to the left, are the sheds, taverns, and vegetable-gardens
of the suburb of San Jose (p. 441). The train finally skirts the
lofty city walls, passes the barracks of Santa Elena, and enters the
station of —
95 M. Cadiz,
46. Cadiz.
Arrival. The Bailwai Station (Ettcicidn; PI. F, 3) lies to the E. of
the town, close to the mole and harbour, ffotel Omnxbutes and (generally)
Cabi (see below) are in waiting. The porter (mandadero) accompanies
the vehicle to the custom-house at the Fuerta del Mar (PL F, 3), where
be unloads and again reloads the luggage (inclusive fee 1 p. up to llOlbs.,
50 c. for each 561bs. extra). — In arriving By Ska (comp. p. 427) a fee
of 50 c. for each pers. and each trunk is paid to the hotero (boatman) for
landing. On shore the mandadero carries the luggage to the custom-
house and hotel for the same fee as above. It is also possible to bargain
with the boatmen for the whole business, but probably they will not
take less than 3-4 p.
Hotels. Hotel dk Paris (PI. a^ D, 2), in the narrow Calle de San
Francisco, pens, from 12 p. \ HSt. db Fbanob (PL b ; D, 2), in the attract-
ive Plaza de Mina^ Hot. pb Cadiz (PI. c^ G, D, 2), Plaza de la Ck>nsti-
tucidn, very fair, attentive landlord, pens, from 10 p. — Less pretending:
Fonda de Edbopa , Calle Duque de Victoria, pens. 7 p. ^ Fonda Suiza,
Calle Duque de Tetuan; Fonda db Obientb, Oalle de San Francisco 21.
Caf6a. *Cafi IngU*^ Plaza de la Constitucidn , at the comer of the
Calle Duque de Tetuan; *Cruz BlcmcOy La Jtaliana^ both in the Calle
Duque de Tetuan. — Beer. Karl Mater, Calle Zorrilla (PI. D, 1).
Post Office (Correo; PI. D, 3), Calle de Sacramento 1. — Telegraph
Office (PI. D, 1), in the Alameda.
Oaba (chief stands in the Plaza de la Gonstitucidn, Plaza de Mina,
and Plaza de San Francisco). With one horse , per drive, 1-3 pers. 1,
3-4 pers. IVs P>i P«r br. 2 or 2Vs P> \ with two horses, 2, 2, 4, or 4 p.
Shops (comp. p. xxziii). The best are in the Calle Columela (PI. D,
2, 3). Cadiz is celebrated for its guitars, castanets, gloves, and fans.
Booksellers. YbaHez, Calle Duque de Tetuan; Manuel Morulas^ Calle
de San Francisco; Litografla Alemana (Oeorg Milller), Calle de Murguia,
with good plans of Cadiz and its environs. — Photographs. YhaSies (see
above); Roeafuli, Calle Duque de Tetuan.
Bankers. Duarte is Co., Plaza de Mina; Aramlbwro ffermanos. Plaza
de la Constitucidn ; Cesar Lovental^ Calle Isaac Peral 6; Loeanta & Sons,
same street, 11 and 12. — Koney Changers. Ccua de Cambio, Calle de San
Francisco 8 and 16.
Baths. BcHos Orientales, Calle de Marzal 29; Calle de Vargas Ponce 1,
8teambt>(St$, CADIZ. 46, Boutt. 435
adjoining the Placa de tfin«. — 8m Bfttlui. B€Moi del BmI (PI. B, 3), on
the beach of La Caleta.
Consuls. BritiA, A, H. Vecqtiarapy Calle 3os4 Real de Santa Cms 10;
Vice-Consul, £. Andrewa. — U. 8. A., John Howell Carroll; Vlce-Consul,
B. G. Sapneg. — Lloyd^s Ag«nt, H. Mae Pherton, San Qin^s 6.
English Ohuroh Berriee. Prayers read on Sun. momings at the British
Gonsurs house. — BpanUh Protettant Service^ Calle Teneria.
Theatres. Ttatro Principal (PI. D, 2, S), Calle de Aranda \ Teatro
C&mieo^ Calle de la Hurga, for 'hourly pieces' (see p. 67) ; Nuevo Cireo
Ttatro (PI. B, C, 2), Plaza Alfonso Doce, amid the ruins of the Gran
Teatro burned down in 1881; Teairo del Parqtie Oenovet (PI. B, 1), in
summer only. -~ Bull King (Plata d» Torat; PI. E, 4), at the E. end of
the Becinto del Sur, rebuilt in 1862, with room for 11,000 spectators. —
Hippodrome, with horse-races in Aug., to the S. of San Jos^, near the
station of Segunda Aguada (p. 184).
Promenades. The popular resorts in summer are the IHtua de Mina
(p. 438; band on Thurs. and Sun., 9-11 p.m.), the *AUmeda de Apodaca
(p. 440; band on Thurs. and Sun., 6.30-9 p.m.), and the new Parque Ge-
noveB (p. 440). The high Baluartet (Muralla Real; p. 438) to the E., with
the view of the harbour and the Bay of Cadiz, and the Recinto del 8ur to
the 8. are also charming places for a stroll. — In winter promenading
is restricted to the Pargue Oenovee (afternoon), the Plaza de la Conetiiu-
cidn (p. 438), and the Catte del Duque de Tetuan (p. 438).
Festivals. The chief is the Carnival, celebrated on the three days
before Ash Wednesday and on the Sun. following. The first Sun. is named
Dommffo de lae P0kUas. — The *ProceeeionM (Pa$o*) in Passion Week and
on Corpus Christ! Day, resembling those of Seville (p. 390), are interesting.
Bteamboftta. CompeOUa TraMUidntita (sfent, Calle Isabel la Catdlica 8),
on Hon., Wed., A Frid. for Tangier and Gibraltar (see p. 374); HalVt Line
(agents, Calle San Pedro 2 and Calle Cuartel de Marina 4) once weekly
fur Gibraltar and Malaga in one direction, and for Lisbon (and London)
in the other (times of departure very irregular); Coatting Steamers dif
Ibarra A Co.^ once weekly to Malaga and along the E. coast to 'Barcelona
(Marseilles), and also to the W. to Lisbon, Santander, and Bilbao. For
the steamers to San Lucar de Barrameda and Seville, eomp. p. 425.
The steamer to ffuelva takes 9 hrs. Cadiz is also the starting-point of lines
to Central and S. America (Hamburg Pacific Line and Cosmo* Line); to the
Canary Islands (Spanish Mail Steamer on the 3rd and 18th of each month
to Santa Cruz, in Teneriffe); to W. Africa, Manila, and many other places.
— Local Steamers (agency, Calle Duque de la Victoria 2 duplicado) ply
6-8 times a day between Cadiz and Puerto de Santa Maria (p. 432; 7 M.,
in 1 hr. ; fares 1 p. 26, 70 c. ; a charming trio), and thrice daily to Puerto
Real and La Carraca (p. 433; fares 1 p., 6oe.; the morning boat calls
also at the Dique in Trocadero, p. 433). These boats start at the Muelle
(PI. F, 3). No return-tickets are issued. The hours of depArture vary daily
and may be ascertained at the office or in the papers. Tbe inner bay is
always calm, but if the sea becomes rough we can return from Puerto de
Santa Maria by train (p. 432).
Diligences leave San Fernando (p. 433; V* ^' ^7 '<^) morning and
evening for (14-16 hrs.) Algedras (Gibraltar), running via Chiclana^ V^er^
and Tarifa. Tickets should be taken in Cadiz.
Principal Attractions (one day). Morning: Torre de Vigia (p. 438);
CaUe del Duque de Tetuan (p. 438) ; Plata de Mina and Picture ChOkrp (p. 438).
Afternoon: Muralla del Mar^Tp. 488); Alameda de Apodaca (p. 440); Parous
Oenoves (p. 440) ; Recinto del Sur^ with the Capuchin Convent (p. 440).
Cadiz (generally pronounced Cadi by Andalusians) , a city of
60,000 inhab., the capital of a province, the see of a bishop, and a
strong fortress, is most pictnresqnely situated on a lov rock of shell
28*
436 Route 46, CADIZ. Situation,
limestone, surrounded by the sea and connected with the mainland
merely hy a narrow strip of sand (p. 434). The rock has two flat-
topped elevations, the larger of which lies to the N. ; the depres-
sion between them is traversed by theCalles de la Rosa, Gereria, and
de San Jnan (PI. B, G, D, 3). With the exception of the crooked
lanes near the cathedral (p. 441), the town makes a thoroughly
modern impression. It was rebuilt on a new plan after the cata-
strophe of 1596 (p. 441), and though it has begun to decline, it still
retains its former beauty, elegance, and cleanliness. The houses,
almost invariably provided with Vievf-iowen (mkcidores} rising over
their flat roofs, are lavishly covered with whitewash, so that from a
distance the town seems to be made of plaster of Paris; the Spaniards
liken it to a ^dish of silver' (una copa de plata), De Amicis whimsi-
cally asserts that the best impression of Gadiz would be given *'by
writing the word *white' with a white pencil on blue paper". The
fronts of the houses are sometimes gaily painted , and there is a
balcony before every window. Not even in Seville is seen such a
lavish use of marble, generally from Italy, in staircases, courts, and
haUs. The limited area of the site forbade the laying out of broad
streets or the construction of extensive buildings. Hence the patio
of Seville disappears, and the houses tower into the air, while we
ascend to the flat roofs (azotSasJ to And a second city of ^mirad ores'
above the city of houses. The magical charm of Cadiz is farther
enhanced by its beautiful parks, the illimitable expanse of its ocean-
view, the fresh sea-breezes, and the absence of wheeled traffic and
street-noises. Its by-name of La Joyosa y Culta is fairly earned by
the pleasant manners of its inhabitants \ and its shape and situation
justify the name of the 'Spanish Venice'.
The business-life is concentrated in the harbour, to the E. of
the town. The large steamers lie in the open roads and form a fine
background to the harbour. On the N., W., and S. the town is sur-
rounded by walls, 30-50 ft. high and 19 ft. thick, the foot of
which is continually washed by the billows of the Atlantic. Project-
ing reefs are provided with fortifications and iighthouses. The Cor-
ralea on the S. and the Coehinos and Puercas on the N. are dangerous
rocks rising from the sea.
The Climate of Cadiz is damp and warm. The land-wind,
known as Et Medina from the town of Medina Sidonia, affects but
one-third of the bay, and that mainly in winter. In spring the moist
ViraziSn and other sea-breezes prevail. In spite of the proximity
of the sea, the summer is often extremely warm, and the rotting
sea-weed makes the main promenades unpleasant. The annual rate
of mortality (44.6 per thousand) is very high, owing to the bad
water and inadequate drainage.
The great difference between ebb and flow at Cadiz was observed
the ancients. It amounts in ordinary tides to 6 ft. and in neap-
$8 to nearly 10 ft
C A D » Z
1:10.000
^V
'"k^^l
flClHCkiiLrji.
k^ A
LA CALETA.l fete |^S.-lX!r^^
HUtory. CADIZ. 46. Route. 437
History. The aneient hiatory of Cadis Sa very obscure. The tin of
the Gassiteridea and the amber of the Baltic found their chief market in
the Phoenician Qadir Ccastle' , ^fastneas") , which was long regarded by
other nations as the ^ultima terra\ a land of mystery. The Carthaginians
occupied the town about B.C. 601 and from it overran the entire peninaula.
It waa at Gadir that Mago embarked for Africa in B.C. 206 with the ahattered
remnants of the Carthaginian army, abandoning Iberia to the Bomans. The
inhabitants of the Roman Oades^ the Jvlia Auffvsta Oaditana, received from
Ceeaar (B.C. 49) the rights of Roman citizenahip and posaeaaed large ahip-
ping wharvea. The town waa the terminua of the *Via Auguata\ which began
in S. France and paaaed Yitoria, Leon, Astorga, Salamanca, Ciudad Bodrigo,
H^rida, and Seville (Italica). In the time of Augnatus Cadis contained
500 EquiteSy a greater number than any other town except Rome itaelf and
Padua. Its cuisine was aa famous aa its dancing-girla, the improhae Qadi-
tanae of the Romana, atill known as ^lo$ meu salerosos citerpot de EspcMa'.
Martial and Juvenal speak of it as the city of Venus rather than of Diana.
In the middle agea Cadiz, the DJeztrat-Eddi* of the Arabs, disappeara almost
wholly from the pages of history. When Alfonso the Learned captured
it in 1262, he had to repeople it almost entirely. Dante does not mention
Cadiz in his description of the voyage of Odysseus (comp. p. 892). Ita
modem revival begina with the discovery of America and Ihe anchoring
of the 'silver fleeta' in ita harbour. The 'Silver Road' (Camino de la Plata)
led from Cadiz, vi& Seville, Carpio, Adamuz, and Conquiata, to Ciudad
Real (p. iB&) and beyond. Cadiz waa frequently attacked by the Barbary
coraairs in the 16th cent, (especially in 16o3 and 1574), but repelled them
on every occaaion. Admiral Drake burned the shipping in the harbour in
1587. In 1596 Lord Euex deatroyed 13 Spaniah men-of-war and 40 large
American g»]leons in the harbour of Cadiz and plundered the town so
ruthlessly, that almost total bankruptcy waa the result. Later attempta
of the Engliah, who had not yet cast their eyes on Gibraltar, were unsuc-
cessful. The city recovered ita proaperity, and aa late as 1770 it was still
a wealthier place than London. The value of the gold and silver annually
imported from America amounted at this period to about 126,000,0(X) p.
(5,000,000/.). The later wars, and especially the loss of the Spanish col-
onies, ruined Cadiz once more ; but the real glory of the city begins in
this period of material misfortune. On June 14th, 1808, the Spaniarda cap-
tured a French fleet under Boselly in the inner bay, and from Feb. 4th,
1810, they defended the town vigorously under the Duke of Albuqverqtie
against the French army, until the aiege waa raiaed by the Duke of Well-
ington on Aug. 2nd, 1812. It was during this siege that the Cortes dia-
cuased and issued the famous liberal constitution of March 19th, 1812 (see
p. 438). On Jan. 1st, 1820, Lfeut. Col. Riego raised the flag of revolution
in the lala de Leon (p. 433), with a view to aecuiing the renewal of this
constitution. A French army under the Due d'AngoulSme appeared before
Cadiz in 1823, and, after overcoming the gallant resistance of the Troca-
dero (p. 483), captured the town on Aug. 31st, 1823. The Cortes liberated
Ferdinand YII., whom they had brought with them to Cadiz*, and the
city was occupied by Bourmont till 1824. Since thia period Cadiz, like
Malaga (see p. a24), has ever been on the side of the reformer and the revol-
utionary.
The coat-of-arms of Cadiz consists of a figure oi Hercvies, the Phoenician
Melkart, overcoming two lions. The motto is ^Hercules fundatoi' Oadivm
dominatorqfte\ The Christian tutelara of the city are S8. Servanda and German.
On leaTlng the lailway-station or on disembarking from the
steamer, we first find ourselves on the Muelle (PI. F, 3), a broad
granite quay, affording a fine panorama of the harbour-side of the
city, the houses of which rise over tbe MuraUa Real, In the middle
projects the Baluarte de San Antonio (PI. £, 2), with the Aduana
(custom-house). At the N. extremity are the Punta and BaterCa de
San FiUfpe (Pi. E, F, 1). — The entrance to the town on this side
438 Route 46, CADIZ. Torre djt Vig€a.
is the Puerta del Mar (PI. E, F, 3), inscribed 'Dominm eustodiat
introitum tuum\ This opens on the Plaza de Isabel Segunda (PL
£, 3), D^th the Ccuas Consutoriales or AyuntamiefUo.
From the N.W. conier of the plaza the Calle del Dnqae de la
Victoria (formerly Calle Nueva) and its continuation, the Calle de
San Francisco (PL £, D, 2), lead to the Plaza de San Francisco
(see below). It is better, however, to ascend by a flight of steps
adjoining the gate to the top of the *]Ciiralla Beal (yiews) and
follow it to the N. to the Aduana (PI. £, 2), built in 1773. Here
we leave the walls and proceed to the W. through the Calle del
Consulado Yiejo to th<$ triangular Plaza de San Francisco, which is
adjoined on the S.W. by the Plaza de Loreto (PI. D, 2). — Fiona
this point the short Calle de Vargas Ponce (p. 439) leads to the
N.W. to the Plaza de Mina (see below). To the S.W. is the narrow
andcurring Calle de Sagasta (PL D, C, 2, 3), which Intersects the
Calle del Duque de Tetuan (see below) and traverses the whole city
as far as the church of the Capuchins (p. 440). We turn to the le^
from the Calle de Sagasta into the Calle Gayar Pino and then to the
right into the short Calle de Bulas, containing the —
Torre de Yigia (PI. D, 2, 3) or Tavira^ the watch-tower of Cadiz
(100 ft. high), vhere all arriving and passing ships are signalled.
It stands almost in the centre of the city and on the highest point
(40 ft.) of the N. plateau. The top, reached by 161 steps (fee to
keeper 30-50 c), commands an unimpeded *View of the city, the
ocean, the Bay of Cadiz, and the mainland from Rota (p. 157) to
Chiclana and Medina Sidonia. Beyond are the Ceiro de San Cristobal
(p. 370) and the Sierra de los Gazules (p. 373).
A little to the W. of this tower is the Obatorio de San Felipe
Nbbi (PL C, 2), the meeting-place, as recorded by a tablet on the
W. side, of the Cortes 'que formaron el codlgo de 1812, fundamento
de las libertades patrias, que abolieron el inicuo tribunal de la
inquisicion y que con su energia defendieron el pais contra las
huestes de Francia' . The interior contains a Conception by MuriUo
(altar-piece) and a God the Father by Clemente de Torres,
We now return by the Calle de Sagasta to the Calle del Duqus
DE Tetuan (PI. D, 2; formerly CalU Ancha), the busiest and most
animated street in the city, which ends on the N.W. at the Plaza
de la ConstUuciihi (PL C, D, 2^ formerly the Plaza de San Antonio),
a large square planted with trees. To the N.E. lies the shady
♦Plaza de Mina (PI. D, 1, 2), formerly the garden of the Capuchin
Convent and named after the Spanish Revolutionary general. On the
S.E. side of this square stands the —
Acadimis de Bellas Artes (PI. D, 2), which contains a valuable
Picture Gallery and a collection of easts. It is open on week-
days 9-3 (in summer 7-4), on Sun. and holidays 10-3 (good cata-
logue of 1876, 2 p.).
Aeadl de Bellas ArUs. CADIZ. 46. Route, 439
Room I. Riglit Wall : 59. School of Van Ih/cfc, Christ mourned
over by an angel; 17. Coatanziy St. Bruno; ♦OS. Cologne Schoolj
Virgin and Child; 33. School of Leon, da Vinci, Virgin and Child
with an angel ; 32. Jac. Jordaens, The four Latin Fathers of the
Church ; 53. Alonao Miguel Tobar, Copy of Murillo's Virgen de
la Faja (formerly in the Pal. Santelmo at Seville, p. 418) ; 4. Jac,
Bassano^ Christ driving the money-changers from the Temple. —
End Wall: 25, 24. Herrera the Elder, SS. Paul and Peter; 7.
Alonso Cano, Virgin and Child appearing to St. Francis ; 2. Jac.
BasmnOj Christ in the house of the rich Pharisee. — Left Wall :
23. J. D. de Heem, Still-life ; ♦39. Unknown Master, Last Judg-
ment ; 16. Corrado, Virgin and Child ; no number, Bubens (?),
Holy Family; 27. Luca Giordano, St. Michael. Next comes a series
of pictures by Zurbaran, from the Cartuja of Jertfz (p. 430) ; 66.
John the Baptist; 67. St. Lawrence; 80. St. Matthew; 75, 76.
Pair of angels with censers (turibulij ; *63. The Portiuncula, an
altar-piece from the Capuchin church of Jer^z, symbolizing the
rebuilding of the church of Portiuncula at Assisi by St. Francis ;
♦64. St. Bruno at prayer; 65. Pentecost; 68-74. Saints of the
Carthusian order ; 79, 77, 78. SS. Mark, John, and Luke. — ^34.
Murillo, Ecce Homo, from the Capuchin convent at Cadiz (p. 440).
Room II (modern pictures). Right Wall: 151. Alej. Ferrant,
Murillo's fall from the scaffolding (p. 440); 0, Abbati, 125. Bal-
cony of the Signoria at Florence, 127. Approach to the Chapel of
the Medici at Florence, 124. Interior of a choir; no number, Buiz-
lana, Canal in Venice ; 153. Ferrant, Victory of Cadiz over the
Morocco pirates. — End Wall : 200. Bamon Bodriguez, Junta of
Cadiz in 1810 communicating to the people the answer given to
Marshal Soult's demand for the surrender of the town ('la ciudad
de Cadiz, flel a los principios que ha jurado, no reconoce otro Rey
que el Senor Don Fernando Septimo'). — Left Wall : ♦135. Mari-
ano Belmonte, Sierra de C6rdoba; 185, 186. After Velazquez, Las
Meninas, Surrender of -Breda (pp. 76, 77); 160. Bafael Qarcta
CHispaleto^), Portrait of a man; 166. J. Oarcia Chieano, Copy of
Tobar's portrait of Murillo, with (according to the catalogue) *poco
poblados' (thin) *bigote' (moustache) and *perilla' ('pear-shaped',
i.e. pointed, beard); no number, Meifren, View of Barcelona ; Vinie-
gra, Burial of Isabella the Catholic ; Alddz, Flower-girl ; E. P.
Valluerca, Washerwomen.
A few yards to the S.E. of the Plaza de Mina, on the left side
of the Calle de Vargas Ponce, stands the Museo Arqaeoldgico
(PI. D, 2), opened in 1887 (open daily, 10-3; fee 60 c. j no cata-
logue). In front of it is a small garden.
The Main Rooh contains neolithic tools and weapons and other pro-
hiatoric objects; Greek and Roman coins, terracottas, glasa, and inscrip-
tions; Roman architectural fragments; Moorish capitals and coins; medr
ieeval Christian and modern objects of art. — In the Oabden and in a
SiDB Room are some Tonibt and their Content* from the Phoenician Necropolis
440 BauU 46, CADIZ. La CaUta,
of Cadiz. The mo«t imporUnt is » *Mar^ Barcophoffut^ found in 1887
at the Ponta de la Vaca, near Cadiz, with a bearded figure of the deceased
on the lid and a weU-preserred skeleton inside.
A little way to the N.E. of the Plaza de Mina is the new •Ala-
meda de Apodaca (PI. G, D, 1), aifording a fine view of the N. side
of the bay. In the sea are the rocks (p. 436) known as the Coehinos
(left) and the Puerccu (right). — We now proceed to the N.W.,
passing (left) the church of Nuestra Senora del Cdrmen (PI. G, 1 ;
with the tomh of Adm. Grarina, the commander of the Spanish fleet
at Trafalgar) and (right) the Baterid de Candelaria^ to the extensive
♦Parque Genovei (PI. B, C, 1, 2), laid out in 1892. The large
huildings on its landward side serve military purposes. The middle
of the park is occupied by a summer- theatre (p. 435), a palm
garden, and a grotto with a terrace commanding an open view of
the sea. Great pyramids of cannon-balls remind us that we are in
a fortress.
The Calle de Santa Rosalia, beginning opposite the grotto, leads
to the Plaza Fragela (PI. C, 2) and to the small Jardin Botanico
(PI. B, 2), which contains a fine array of sub-tropical plants and a
dragon-tree (p. 378) 600 years old. On the S.W. side of the Plaza
Fragela stands the Circo Teatro (p. 435). A gateway opposite the
theatre leads to the Military Hospital , with the parish-church of
Santo Angela and (right) to the Hospital Central (comp. PI. B, 2), the
seat of the medical faculty of the University of Seville (p. 411). —
Not far off is the Hospicio Provincial (PI. B, 3j entr. in the Calle
de Santa Elena), a large institution for the sick and orphaned, built
by Torcuato Cayon.
On the bay of La Caleta (PI. A, 3) lie the Bafios del Real (p. 435).
To the N. of this bay is the Castillo de Santa Catalina (PI. A, 2, 3).
To the S., on a rocky spit projecting far into the ocean and about
8/4 M. beyond the Puerta de la Caleta (PI. B, 4), are the CasiiUo de
San Sebastidn and the Faro de San Sehastidn , a lighthouse visible
for 20 nautical miles (visitors not admitted). Numerous 'pot-holes'
(olios) have been worn in the shell-limestone rock by the action of
the waves.
From the Puerta de la Caleta we proceed, passing the Meteorolog-
ical Station (Mare6grafo y Estacidn MeteoroWgica) and the Presidio^
to the shadeless *B6cinto del Sur (PL B-E, 4), which is generally
lined with files of patient anglers, at whose feet the sea tosses and
roars. The fish are attracted by the refuse poured into the sea through
the openings left in the wall for the purpose.
To the left lies the secularized Capuchin Convent (PI. C, 4),
now used as a Manicomio or insane asylum. Its small church of
Santa Catalina (entr. in the court to the right ; ring at the door to
the left; fee 50 c.) contains, as its high- altar-piece, a *B6trothal
of St. Catharine by Mtmllo, the last work of the master and one of
his best. In painting it he had a fatal fall from the scaffold, and the
Caihedrals. CADIZ. 46, RouU. 441
pictare was finished after his death (April 3rd, 1682) by Meneses
Osorio, On the left wall are a Conception and a St. Francis with the
stigmata, two small works of inferior valae, also ascribed to Murillo.
As we continue to follow the Recinto del Sur towards the W.,
we have a fine view of the S. front of Cadiz, with the cathedral, the
bull-ring, the suburb of San Jos^, and the Castillo de la Cortadura
(p. 434). In the sea, off San Jos^, lie the rocks named the Cor-
rales (p. 436). — The Calle del Puerto Ohico leads to the left to the
Mercado (PI. D, 3), the chief market of the city, presenting a very
animated scene in the early morning. This is adjoined to the N. by
the sharply inclined and much-neglected Derribo de lo8 Dtscalzos
(PI. D, 3). To the E. of this point lies the palm-planted ♦Plaza.
DE Castelab (PI. D, E, 3), whence we proceed to the S. (right)
through the Calle de Cobos to the Plaza de la Catedral.
The Cathedral (PI. D, E, 3, 4), or Catedral Nueva, begun in 1722
by Vicente Acero and Torcuato Cayorij was completed in 1832-38 by
Bishop Domingo de Silos Monno^ a statue of whom faces the front.
The older parts are built of shell -limestone, the newer of Jer^z
sandstone.
The Intebiob, 278 ft. long and 197 ft. wide, with a large dome 170 ft.
high, ia not very happy in its proportions and is farther spoiled by being
partly lighted by panes of cradely coloured glass. The vanlting produces
a strong echo, which is almost overwhelming when the organ plays. The
fine 8illeria in the coro, brought from the Cartuja of Seville (p. 420), \%
by Pedro Duque Comejo, a jpupil of Boldan. The altar was in pert a gift
of Queen Isabella II. (186B). Among other content? of interest are a
Conception by ClemerUe de Torrety a statue of St. Scrvandus by Lw'$a Roldan^
a St. Bruno by Monia%6t^ and some processional crosses. — Below the
cathedral is the Pontedn, or vaults, with extraordinarily flat vaulting. The
E. Bell Totoer^ on the main front, commands a charming view (ascent by
an inclined plane ^ 30 c).
The Catedral Vieja, or Parroquia del Sagrario (PI. E, 4), In the
small plaza to the E. of the New Cathedral, originally erected by
Alfonso the Learned in the 13th cent., was almost entirely destroyed
in the siege of 1696, after which it was rebuilt in its present un-
pretentious Renaissance form. The church also bore the name of
Santa Cruz sohre las Aguas ^ because the only spring in Cadiz rose
below its high-altar. Some of the paintings are by Cornelius Schott.
The altar to the left of the high-altar has a good relief of the Corona-
tion of the Virgin. A side-room to the left contains a silver cus-
todia by Antonio Suarez (1648-64), said to be the largest in Spain
(25 ft. high).
The two cathedrals are supposed to occupy the site of the famous
temple of the Phosniclan Hercules and of the Roman citadel, while
the high-lying ground to the S.E., with its narrow lanes, was prob-
ably the site of the earliest settlement at Cadiz. On its S. margin
lie the BuU Ring, the Prison (CdrcelJ , and the Slaughter House
{Matadero; PL F, 3"). The E. side is bounded by the high BaluarUs
de Santiago (PI. F, 4) and de los Negros, which afford splendid view
442 BouU46. CADIZ.
To tbe S.E., between (right) th^ Cvartel de 8cm Room and (left) the
CuarM de Santa Elena, U the Puerto de Tlerra (PL F, 4), leading to the
Eztramuroi, a aandy district with villas and gardens. By keeping to the
left outside the gate we reach (Vs H.) the Barrio de San Severiano^ with
the Buena VUia and the Venta de Erita%a, two restaurants commanding
charming views. Adjacent are the large wharves of the Astitterot de Vea-
Murguia. By keeping to the right beyond the gate we reach (1 M.) the
Barrio de San JoU, with nnmerous taverns, the large CememUrio Oeneral (to
the W., close to the sea), and the Protestant Cementerio JnglU (to the S.,
adjoining the railway).
YI. ESTREMADURA.
47. From Madrid to Torre das Vargens (Lisbon) via Pla-
sencia, Arroyo de Malpartida, and Valencia de Alcantara 446
Talavera de la Reina. From yavalmoral to Plasencia
via Ynste, 416. — From "Navalmoral to Trujillo and Gua-
dalupe, 447. — From Plasencia to the Jurdes and Ba-
tuecas, 449. — From Arroyo de Halpartida to Alcan-
tara, 450.
From Arroyo de Malpartida to Caceres and M^rida . . 451
48. From Madrid to Badajoz (Torre das Vargens, Lisbon)
vi& Ciudad Real, Almorcbon, and MMda ...... 452
Almaden, 453.
49. From Seville to M^rida (Badajoz, Lisbon) via Tocina
and Zafra 458
Estremadura, once the Extrema Terra of Spain, and limited since
1833 to the two provinces of Cdceres and Badajoz^ with an area of
16,132 sq. M. and a population of 808,700 souls , consists of a
tableland, watered by the Tagtis and the Ouadiana. To the N. it is
separated from Leon and Old Castile by the -Sierra de Oata (6690 ft.),
the plateau of Bejar, and the Sierra deOredos (8730 ft.), while on the
S, it is parted from Andalusia by the (here) gentle slopes of the Sierra
Morena. To the E. and W. lie New Castile and Portugal. Estre-
madwa Alta (province of Caceres), or the basin of the Tagus, is
separated from Estremadura Baja (Badajoz), or basin of the Guadiana,
by the Sierra de Quadalupe (5695 ft).
For the disposal of its products nature points Estremadura to
the estuaries of its two great rivers, i.e. to Portugal ; and in antiquity
It actually formed part of the Roman province of Lusitania (p. 504),
with Mtfrida for its capital. The course of history has, however,
decreed otherwise. The political boundary cut off the district from
the sea. The expulsion of the Moors and the excessive emigration
to America, in the conquest of which Cortes, Pizarro^ and other
'Estremefios' played a prominent part, robbed it of the best of its
inhabitants. Those who remained at home fell behind in the race of
civilisation. The climate, naturally arid, was made worse by the
felling of the mountain-forests. "Want of water reduced large
tracts of fertile soil to barren Heaths (JaraUs, TomiUaresJj used as
pasture by the flocks of neighbouring provinces. In Upper Estre-
madura mile after mile of undulating pasture-land, overgrown by
the gum-cistus (comp. p. 606) and grazed by innumerable sheep
(menno$y ganadoa), may be passed without sight of a house or vil-
lage. Tillage is confined to occasional small patches of soil enclosed
by stone dykes. In Caceres and Lower Estremadura Agbicultukb
(grain and leguminous plants) has the upper hand, but it is exposed
to peculiar dangers from the inundations (avenidaa) of the riverr
28/29
444 ESTREMADURA.
and from the ravages of the locasta (langostaa) that breed in the
waste districts. Wine, olives, figs, and almonds are also produced.
Mulberries, for the silk-culture, flourish in districts where irrigation
is practicable, such as the hills near Plasencia. which are cultiyated
in terraces like those of Valencia (p. 242). — The Swinb of Estre-
madura, fed chiefly on sweet acorns {heUottu ; see p. 277), are very
numerous, and its hamd (jamonei) are considered the best in Spain.
From remote antiquity Estremadura has been visited in winter
by MiGBATOET Flocks of Sheep (Manades Trcuhumantes), which
descend in autumn from the plateau of Leon and Castile (p. 7)
and traverse the various feeding-places according to a definite system
known as the Mesta. To settle disputes between the permanent in-
habitants of the soil and the owners or shepherds of these migratory
herds a special court named the Coruejo de la Mesta was established
in 1526, with the king as *Primb Merino' or president. This court
was not abolished till 1834. At present the shepherds are permit-
ted to enter Estremadura in October, and a strip of pasture-laud,
90 paces wide, must be left on each side of the highroad for the
use of the wandering herds. Each flock usually consists of about
10,000 sheep, under a head-shepherd (mayoral^ capaiaat), assisted by
50 shepherds (paatores) and a peculiar race of strong wolf-hounds
(perro$ de presa). The shepherds carry long crooks and most of them
also have guns. Their clo^ng consists of a doublet, knee-breeches,
and leathern gaiters. Over this they wear jackets of sheepekin,
with the woolly side out, and curious forked aprons of leather or
sheepskin fastened round the thighs with straps. Simdals or shape-
less shoes and a broad-brimmed and peaked hat of felt complete
the costume of these sunburnt and half-savage mortals. The wool
of the migratory sheep is said to be of a finer quality than that of
those kept at home ; but the animals must be carefully debarred from
tracts where saline plants grow. In Sept. the sheep are smeared with
a kind of red clay from Mazarron (p. 245). The shearing (esquUmo)
takes place in May. The average cut from each animal is about Gibs.
The TEA.DB and Inbustbt of Estremadura are inconsiderable.
Its rich MINEBA.L TBBA.SUBBS (Irou, copper, etc.) have hardly been
touched, though the construction of the great railways along Ihe Ta-
gus and the Guadiana promise a speedy improvement in this field.
Most TouBiSTS content themselves with a visit to MSrida^ with
its Roman remains. Of other towns on the railway Pto«cncia, Bcidajoz^
Zdfra^ and Cdceres are of interest for their buildings of the age of
the Conquistadores. TruJiUo, with similar buildings, Yuste, with its
reminiscences of Charles V., and the famous Roman bridge of Al"
cdntara are at, some distance from the beaten track. Nothing but a
lively historical curiosity and a keen sympathy for the lonely mel-
ancholy of the cistus-heaths, with their wealth of blossom in spring
and their sunburnt brown in summer, enable the visitor to such places
■1 bear with equanimity the privations to which he is exposed.
445
47. From Madrid to Torre das Vargens (Lisbon) vi&
Plasencia, Arroyo de Malpartida, and Valencia de
Alcdntara.
305 U. Railway (one throngh- train dally) in 14 Va hrs. (fares to
Valencia de Alcantara 50 p., S5 p. 70 c.^ 25 p.; thence to Torre das Var-
gens 1670, 1280, 920 rs.)) to Usbon (412 M.) in 21 hrs. (fares 79 p.
15, 58 p. 22, 40 p. 65 c). There are also local trains from Madrid to
Napalmoral (p. 446) and from Plasencia (p. 449) to Valencia de Mcdntara
(p. 451). — The trains start from the EsUxddn de la* Delidas (p. 53).
There are good railway-restaurants at Talavera and EntroneamentOy and
refreshment counters at Ifavaltnoral^ Arroyo de Malpartida^ Vateneia^ and
Torre dag Vargens. Carriages are changed and luggage is examined at
Marvao (in the reverse direction at Valencia de Alcantara).
Travellers from Portugal who wish to visit Tolkdo may leave the
train at Vilkmiel (see below and p. 126). If a ticket for ViUamiel cannot
be obtained in Portugal, the best plan is to take a ticket for Valencia
de Alcitntara and there re-book for ViUamiel.
Madrid^ see p. 62. — The train crosses tbe Mantanares by a
bridge 135 yds. long. Beyond (3 M.) ViUaverde we have a fine re-
trospect of Madrid to the right. — 8 M. LeganSa, with a large Insane
asylum. The monotony of the landscape is hardly relieved by the
view of the /Sierra de Quadarrama to the N. and the 8Urra de
Qredos to the W. — 11 M. FuerOabrada; W/2 M. Humanes; 171/2 M.
Orifi6n.
24 M. Ulescas, the first station In the province of ToledOy often
appears in Spanish novels as the halfway-house of travellers on their
way to the city of Toledo. The church has a fine tower in the Mud^-
jar style, *which, though differing essentially from any Gothic steeple,
is still in every part appropriately designed, and, notwithstanding
its strongly marked horizontal lines, by no means deficient in that
aspiring character so admirable in Gothic steeples* (Ferguason). The
house which Francis I. occupied for a short time after his release
from captivity Is still shown.
27 M. Atafia; 3OV2 M. ViUaluenga; 35V2 M. Cabanas de laSagra.
The train follows the course of the Tagua, which, however, is not
visible. Beyond (39 M.) Bargas we cross its tributary the Quadar-
rama (p. 60) by a five-arched bridge, 195 yds. long. — 441/2 M.
ViUamiel (coach to Toledo, see p. 126); 471/2 M. Bielvea.
53 M. TmrnioB, a small and ancient town with 2500 Inhab., was
a favourite seat of Peter the Gruel (p. 395). The palace of the Count
of Altamira, said to have been built by Juan de Herrera, has fine
rooms with artesonado ceilings. — We now have our last view of
the Guadarrama Mts. and gradually approach the lofty, snow-clad
Sierra de OredoSj the serrated ridge of which Is long visible, rising
picturesquely over the cistus-spread heaths of New Castile and
Upper Estremadura.
60 m. Santa- OlaUa- Carmena, with large olive - plantations ;
64 M. Eruateai 68 M. lOdn-Cebolla, The train skirts the MorUeAra-
gon with (73 M.) the station of the same name , approaches the
446 RouU47, NAVALMORAL. From Madrid
Tagas, and crosses the Alberche, descending from the Sierra de Gre>
do8, hy a stone bridge 360 yds. long. The Sierra de Gredos, to the
N., is partly hidden by the Sierra de San VieenU (4480 ft.).
83 M. Talavera de la Beina (1150 ft. ; Fonda de la Amistad;
Rail. Restaurant), the ancient Talciriga, now a town with 9400 in-
hab., lies in a smiling yega on the Tagns. From the time of Al-
fonso XI. onwards it was the hereditary portion of the Qneens of
Castile. It was the birthplace of the historian Juan de Mariana
(1536-1623). An important and hard-fongbt battle took place here
on July 27-28th, 1809, in which Wellington defeated the French
under Joseph, Jourdan, and Victor. Each side lost 6-7000 men.
'Three hosts combine to offer sacrifice . . .
The foe, the victim, and the fond ally
That fights for all, but erer fights in vain,
Are met — as if at home they could not die —
To feed the crow on Talavera's plain^ (Bpron).
The most Interesting buildings of Talavera are the Moorish
Torres Albarranas (937), the Gothic collegiate church of Santa Maria
la Mayor, the secularized convent of San Francisco (with an elegant
Mud^jar tower), the church of Santo Domingo (with three Renais- ^
sance tombs), and the church of San Jer6nimo on the Tagus, bnilt
in 1389 and restored in 1540 and 1624 (now a factory) The Bridge
of 35 arches, Y4 M. long, was constructed by Card. Mendoza in the
15th cent, and is now in a very dilapidated condition.
On the £. of the town is the attractive Paseo del Prado , leading to
the ermita of La Yirgxn dsl Prado, in honour of whom large proces-
sions take place in the week after Easter. Down to 1807 a curious pagan
festival, named L<m M&ndas de Talatsra, was also held here, under the
supervision of the Jutticia de Mogiganga Cpresldent of the images').
The train now leaves the Tagus, which here turns to the S.W. to
cleave a deep ravine between the hill-ranges of Yeneruela and LaMo-
heda. — 93 M. CaUra; 101 M. Alcanito, — 105 M. Oropesa, a loftOy
situated town, surrounded by old walls and dominated by the pic-
turesque castle of its counts. About 12 M. to the S , at the Puente
del Artobispo, is the above-mentioned gorge of the Tagus. To the
N. the Sierra de Gredos is seen in its full glory. — 110 M. La Cal-
zada de Oropesa, in a corn-growing plain. To the S. appear
the Sierra de AUamira and the Jara. — The train quits New Castile
and enters the Estremadura province of Cdeeres.
124 M. Kavalmoral de la Hata (984 ft.; Bail. Bfmt. Booms),
a town of 3800 inhab., situated in a hollow amid groves of figs and
olives, is the starting-point for a visit to the monastery of Yusie on
the N.W., and to Trujillo and the convent of Guadalupe on the S.
F&OM Navalmobal to Yustb, 24 M. The bridle-path leads to
the N.W., passing the villages of Torviscoso and Talayuela^ then
bends to the N., descends into the valley of the TUtar^ and te-as-
cends to Jarandilla. Farther on it proceeds to the S.W., via Aldea-
to Torre das Vargerts, YUSTE. 47. RouU. 447
nueva dela Vera, to the Tillage of Cuacos, P/4 M. from Yuste. Ac-
commodfttion may be obtained in the posada or at the farm of La
MagdaUna. The keeper of the monastery lives in the village.
The suppressed monastery of San Jer6iiimo de Yuste, named
after the brook of Yuste, was founded from Plasencia in 1404. It
was ravaged by the French in 1809 and has been partly restored by
Its present owner, the Mar quia de Miravel (p. 449). Its only inter-
est arises from the fact that it was the last home of Emp. Charles V.,
after he had resigned the imperial crown (Oct. 26th, 1656) and the
Spanish throne (Jan. 15th, 1556) in favour of his son Philip II.
The emperor, who seems to have inherited a constitutional tendency
to melancholy from his mother, Juana la Loca, reached the soil of
Spain at Laredo on Sept. 28th, 1656, and soon afterwards received
his grandson Don Carlos (p. 113) at Yalladolid. He then betook
himself to Jarandilla and lived here in the chateau of the Count of
Oropesa, until the house that had been building for him on the S.
side of the convent since June, 1553, was ready for his reception.
On Feb. 3rd, 1557, he occupied his new residence, the covered ter-
race of which commands an extensive view extending over the fer-
tile district of La Vera and the moors of Estremadura to the Sierra
de Guadalupe. Here Charles lived in princely state, with a large
retinue, frequently giving his advice in affairs of state but refusing
all invitations to resume the helm of government. He gave free
rein to his taste for mechanical pursuits, made a large collection of
clocks and watches, and spent much of his time with Oiovarmi Tur-
ri(mo (^Juanelo^J, an ingenious engineer and mechanician of Cre-
mona. He died here on Sept. 28th, 1568. — The parlour and bed-
room of the emperor adjoined the choir of the church, like those of
Philip II. in the Escorial. Even from his bed he could see the
high-altar and the elevation of the Host. In his bedroom hung the
'Gloria' of Titian (p. 80), which his will ordered to be kept in the
same place as his dead body. The latter remained at Yuste till its
removal to the Escorial in 1574, and the outer wooden case of the
leaden coffin is still preserved here. The rooms are now empty.
Visitors are shown the Plaza del Palacio (view-terrace), the Bedroom
in which the emperor died, the Puente leading from the gallery to
the garden, and the pavilion named the Cenador de Belen. Other
features of interest are the old sun-dial, the venerable walnut-tree
near the entrance, and the stone horse-block used by the emperor.
Another bridle-path leads from Yuste to (22 M.) Plasencia^ but the
traveller will find it difficult to get either mule or guide.
Faox Navalmobal to Tbdjillo, 45 M. The road leads to the S.W.,
via (9V2 M.) Almai^Zy to (12Vs M.) the Tagus^ which it crosses by an im-
posing bridge, HO yds. long and 23 ft. wide, erected by Pedro de Urias
in 1562. The larger of the two arches is 160 ft. In height and 140 ft. in
span. Thence we ascend vi& (IS M.) Luffor Nuevo to the Bitrra de Miraoeie
and descend again to (28 M.) Jaraicejo. Farther on we cross the Almonte
by a fine bridge and pass (40 M.) CarrcuccU.
45 M. Trujillo (1590 ft.), a high-lying town with 4800inbab., was the
448 BouU47. GUADALUPE. From Madrid
Roman TurgcMium and now consists of the old town, the new town, and
a Hoorivh castle restored by the French. It was the birthplace of the
herd-boy Francisco Pitarro (ca. 1478-1541), the conqueror of Peru, and of
sereral others of the Conquistadores, who used the wealth amassed in
Peru to erect large palaces here. Adjoining the town-gate is a tower
said to be of Soman origin. The Gothic church of Santa Maria la Mayor
contains the tomb of Diego Garcia de Paredes, the ^Samson of Estrema-
dura\ who was bom here in 1466 and died at Bologna in 1634. — The
most notable of the other churches are San Martin ^ Santiago (with a
Gothic refablo and a statue of St. James, the tutelar of the town, by
Cfregorio Hernandez), and Santa Maria de la Concepcidn^ with the tomb of
Pizarro. The most interesting private houses are the Palace of the Duqtie
de San Carlos (fine patio), that of the Condt del Puerto O&'ge staircase),
and the Hoiue of Pizarro, in the Plaza Mayor.
From Trujillo a Road leads to the S.E. over the Sierra de Marehaz
into the basin of the Guadiana and Til H.) Conquistaf once an estate
belonging to Pizarro. Farther on is (l5Vs M.) Zorita^ beyond which we
keep to the £., skirting the 8. slope of the Sierra de Ouadalvpe to (STi/s U.)
LogTOsan, a town with 3900 inhab., in the valley of the Pollares, an
affluent of the Ruecas. Geologists will be interested here in the presence
of phosphate of lime in the quartzite slate, a unique instance in Europe.
It is worked like the seam of a mine. Logrosan itself, like Trujillo,
lies upon granite, which has been upheaved through the slate. The un-
finished CiHtrch contains a handsome retablo.
From Logrosan a bridle-path leads, vii (6 M.) Cafiameroy to (15Vs H.)
Guadalupe , a small town Q^SQO inhab.) , situated in the valley of the
QuadalupejOy on the S.E. slope of the Sierra de Guadalupe. Its suppressed
CoNVKNTo DK LOS Jbb6niho8, foundod by Alfonso XI. in 1389, was one of
the richest monasteries in Spain. The building, in the plaza, resembles
a castle. Adjoining the vestibule are the Sagrario, with the votive chains
of Christians freed from slavery, and the Cfutpel, containing the ^Virgen
de Guadalupe', a figure of the Madonna said to have been carved by St.
Luke. It was presented by Pope Gregory the Great to Archbp. Leander
of Seville, was hidden away during the Moorish period, and found again
at Guadalupe by a shepherd in iHSO. In another chapel is a represent-
ation of the council held here in 1416. — The Gothic *Church is very
imposing, though the effect is somewhat marred by the over-massive coro.
The latter has a superb reja by Francisco de Bakmumea and Juan de Avila.
The'Renaissance retablo in the capilla mayor is by Juan Gomes de Mora^
the marble decorations are by Juan Bautista Semeria and the Swiss Bar-
tolomi Abril. To the left of the entrance is the tomb of the architect
Juan Alonso. The Capilla de los Cuatro Altares contains statues of /Vfoce
Dionisio of Portugal, son of Peter and Inez de Castro (p. 671), and his
wife Johanna, The tombs of Henry IV. of Castile and Constable Alonso
Velcueo are also interesting. — The * Sacristia passes for one of the most
beautiful in Spain ; it contains eight * Scenes from the life of St. Jerome
by Zurbaran. — There are two Cloisters, one in the Gothic style, the other,
with its charming well-house, in the Moorish style.
Railway to Lisbon. The next station beyond Navalmoral is
(131 M.) Cctsatejada. We traverse large forests of oak and black fir,
approach the Tagns, and finally pass to the N.W. into the sandy,
ci8tu8-clad valley of the Tiitar (p. 446), crossing that river at
(142 M.) La Bazagona. — We then ascend to the N.W., past
(151 M.) Malpartida de Plasenday to the desolate monntaln-platean
of Hasencia, also overgrown with gum-cistas. To the S. we have a
distant view , across the Tagus, of the mountains of Qrutdalupe^
Marehaz, and Montanchez; to the N. the view is somewhat limited.
to Torre das VargenB, PLASENOIA. 47, RouU. 449
156 M. Flasencia. — The Kctilway Station (Empalme) lies 6 M. to
the S. of the town; omnibas IVsp* — Hotels. Posada de lot Trei Puertas^
Parador IfttevOy both unpretending.
Plcuenciay founded in 1189 by Alfonso Yin. of Castile, near the
Roman Ambracia (see below), and named by him Vt Deo Placet,
was created the see of a bishop in 1190 and Is now a town of 7400
inhabitants. It was the home of the parents of Columbns, who
emigrated hence to Genoa. The town is on the right bank of the
Jerte, a tributary of the Alag6n, and, like Toledo, lies on the top
of a rocky promontory cut out by the river from the granitic moun-
tains. The gorge to the W., with its numerous mills, is especially
imposing. Three bridges, each with seven arches, connect Plasencia
with the left bank of the Jerte. The double line of walls, with its
68 towers, dates from the time of Alfonso VIII. Round it now runs
a promenade, affording a series of magnificent views; the best is
on the N.E. side, where the Alcdzar once stood and where the 63
arches of the Aqueduct recall the monumental works of the Romans.
The Cathedbal, built about 1498 but left unfinished and
marred by incongruous later additions, has an overloaded fagade in
the plateresque style. In the N. transept is the beautiful Ptierta del
EnLosadOy with portrait -medallions and the armorial bearings of
Charles Y. and the Carvajals.
The elaborately decorated Intbbiob contains many handsome mon-
uments. The capilla mayor is by Juan de AlavOy Diego de Biloe^ and
AloMo de CovarrubiaSy and its saperb reja is by Juan Bautista Celma (16j4).
The silleria, by Rodrigo Aleman (1520), is distinguished for its elaborate
trtotment and the secular character of many of its subjects. The retablo
has a fine relief of the Assumption by Gregorio Hernandez (1626). -> The
BacrUUa^ with a good Renaissance porta], contains an image of the Virgin,
which is publicly exhibited on Aug. 15th. — The 8ala Capitular^ burned
down in 18B2, contained an Adoration of the Shepherds by Velazquez.
In the church of San Nicolde is the tomb of Bishop Pedro de
Carvajalf in the church of the Monjas de San Ildefonso is that of
Cristdbal de ViUcUha, — The Casa de las B6vbda8, in the Plazuela .
de San NicoUs, dates from 1550 and now belongs to the Marquee
de Miravel, It possesses a beautiful patio and some paintings of the
wars of Charles Y., while some Roman antiquities from Capaja (see
below) are stationed on the terrace.
The promenade on an island in the Jerte, to the E. of the town.
Is a favourite resort
From Plasencia to Salamanca^ see p. 472.
From Plasencia a bridle-path leads to the K. to Capara^ which occupies
the site of the Roman Ambracia^ on the Via Augusta Cp. 437), and still retains
a few antiquities. The path then leads via GranadiUa and Berguituela into
the Tierra de las Jurdes and the Tierra de las Batuecas^ two districts
abutting on the Sierra de Oata. and beyond these it goes on to Ciudad
Bodrigo (p. 472; in all about 70 M.).
The Xurdes form a wild hilly district of about 80 sq. M. in extent,
consisting of limestone, granite, and Silurian strata. There are neither
roads nor bridges. The inhabitants (about 4000) live in cave-like dwell-
ings, partly dug in the ground and partly constructed of wood and stone.
Babobkeb*s pain. ^^
450 Route 47. ALOANTABA. F\r(mi Madrid
They stand on a rtrj low plane of cnltnre and have few prleats or
teachers. The name of the district is derived from the nnmeroas wild
swine (Basque jwdu or hwrdu).
The Batueeaa form another isolated, rocky waste, abont 24 sq. K. in
area and intersected by huge ravines. In 1494 a Frenchman diacorered a
miraenlons image of the Virgin in the iVflki de Franda^ and a Carmelite
convent, like that of Montserrat. was erected on the spot. It has, how-
ever, long been abandoned. The Batnecos are conaidered coarse and
stnpid, and to speak of a Spaniard as ^criado tn lot Batutecu' ('broaght
np in the Bataecas*) is highly insulting.
The Railway now turns at right angles to the S.W. and tra-
verses a dreary platean; to the right rises the Sierra de Gata
(p. 449). — Near (166 M.) Miravel are the mintf of a castle that
formed a frequent bone of contention in the Moorish wars. Two
tunnels penetrate the slaty rocks of the Sierra de Canaveral (ca.
1660 ft.). — 176 M. Canaveral. — 186 M. OarroviUas ; the little
town (610 ft.), with 4900 inhab. and numerous cloth-mills , lies
2 M. to the W. — The train crosses the Tagus by an eight-arched
bridge, 400 yds. long. To the left, in the river, are the remains of
the Puenie de Alconiiar^ a Roman bridge, which the Moors destroyed
in 1232, along with the town of the same name, when fleeing be-
fore Alfonso IX. of Leon.
The train ascends on the high S. bank of the Tagus, describing
two wide curves in the delta enclosed by its affluents, the Almonte
and the Araya. We thread four tunnels and cross two bridges over
the Arroyo de ViUoluengo. — 193 M. Casar de Cdeeres is known for
its boots and tanneries.
204 M. Arroyo de Malpartida (Buffet), a station serving the
small towns of Arroyo del Puereo (see below ; W.) and Malpartida
de Cdceres (E.), is the junction of a branch-railway to Cdceres (and
Merida; see p. 451).
Faox Abboto db Malpabtida to AlcaKtaba, 29 M., diligence at night.
— The good but uninteresting road leads towards the N.W. IV4 M. Arroyo
del Puereo, with the celebrated Santuario de Nwstra SelHora de la Luz;
iSVs M. Navas da ModroHo; 24 M. La Mata de Alcdntara.
29 H. Alointara (390 ft. ; Posada Nueva, very primitive), the Laneia of
the Vettones and Norba Caesarea of the Romans, is a quaint-looking town
of 3100 inhab., perched on the lofty 8. bank of the Tagus. It is famous
for its Roman bridge (Arab, al-kdntara) and for the knightly Order of
Alcantara. This order, dedicated to St. Benedict, was originally established
in 1176 in the fortress of San Jidian de Pereiro near Oiudad Rodrigo, to
defend the frontier against the Moors, but it was transferred in 1218 to Al-
cantara, where it acquired great wealtn and reputation. In 1496 the dignity
of Grand Master was made an appanage of the crown. The Gothic ehurch
of Santa Maria de Almocibar, ))uilt in the IStti cent, on the site of a mosque,
contains thn tombs of the Grand Masters. The church of the ruined
Convenio de San Benito^ built by Pedro de Larrea in 1506. has five pictures
by Jforalee. Among its interesting tombs are those or Francisco Bravo
(in a chapel built by Pedro de Ibarra in 1550), Diego de Santillana (1603),
and Nicolas de Ovando (1511), as well as several in the old cloisters.
The famous **Bbidob, one of the wonders of Spain, bnllt under
Trajan in 98-108, strides across the Tagus to the N.W. of the town In six
majestic arches. It is made wholly of granite, without the use of mortar;
its length is 616 ft., its width 26 ft. The two middle piers are about
to Torre das Vargens, CACERES. 47. Route. 451
190 ft. bigb, and the two middle arches have a span of 60 ft. The usnal
depth of the water is 37 ft., but in time of flood it is sometimes piled
up in the narrow gorge to a height of 180 ft. In the middle of the bridge
is a gateway 86 ft. high — a frequent feature in Roman bridges. One of
the smaller arches was destroyed in 1218 and .restored by Oharles V.
(1543). The second arch from the N. bank was blown up by the British
in 1809 and by the Garlists in 188(5, but it also was restored in 1860. —
A chapel at the beginning of the bridge contains some verses relating to
£mp. Trajan and Caius Julius Lacer, the architect of the bridge.
From Alcantara we may ride to the S.W. to MembHJo and drive
thence to Valencia <f« Aledntara (see below), but this route is uninteresting.
Beyond Arroyo de Malpartida the Railway to Lisbon crosses
tb6 Salor (p. 462). To the left of (215 M.) AlUeda stretches the
Sierra de San Pedro (p. 462), across the steep N. outliers of which
our line ascends. To the right of (227 M.) Herreruela is the Sierra
de Cofbajo, — 242 M. Son Vicente. We now descend to —
249 M. Valencia de Alcantara (Buffet) j with the Spanish
custom-house (carriages changed), a frontier-Tortress with 4600 in-
hab. and many relics of the Moorish period. The church of Ro-
queamador is an interesting edifice of the 14th century. The old
Roman town of Julia CorUrasta^ which has almost wholly vanished,
lay about 3 M. from Valencia.
The Portuguefe railway, which begins here, runs on Lisbon
time (see p. ii). The small river Sever forms the frontier.
259 M. Marvfto, an unimportant place in a desolate hill-district
at the E. base of the Serra de Sao Mamede (3330 ft.), has the Portu-
guese custom-house (money changed). — We descend, over a slope
strewn with granite blocks, to (275 M.) Ca$tello de Vide, the Portu-
guese frontier-fortress , connected by a good road with Portalegre
"p. 610). — We cross the curious plateau of Alemtejo (p. 607).
".7 M. Pmo; 298 M. Ounheira,
305 M. Torre das Vargens^ and thence to Lfsbon, see p. 510.
^■'
Fbom Arboto db Malfabtida (p. 450) to Cacebes, 10 V2 ^m
branch-railway in 3/^ hr. (three trains daily; fares 2 p. 36, 1 p. 60,
1 p. 20 c). — The only intermediate station is (9 M.) Las Minas,
with large phosphorite mines.
101/2 M. C&ceres (1545 ft. ; Fonda del Comercio, Fonda de Antonio
Sanchezy clean), the capital of a province, is the ancient^ Roman
Castra CaeciUa or Caesaris, Pop. 13,203. The old town, with its
large mediseval palaces, lies upon a hill, girt with imposing walls,
towers, and gates, including the Arco de la EstreUa. The new town
lies on the lower slopes of the hill. — The Gothic church oi.Santa
Maria la Mayor contains the tombs of the Figueroas, Paredes, and
other families, and a large retablo by Guillen (1556), with scenes
from the lives of Christ and the Virgin Mary. The Gothic church
of San Mateo , built by Pedro de Ezquerra on the site of a mosque,
occupies the highest point of the old town and has a fine tow^r.
29*
452 Route 48, ' ORGAZ. From Madrid
Inside U the tomb of the Marqn^s de Yaldepnentes. The chief points
of interest in the once Mozarabic (p. 135) church of Santiago are the
reja (1563) and the 'Paso de Jestis Nfizareno' (foot-print of Jesiis),
which attracts numerous devout .worshippers. — Among the domes-
tio buildings of the old town are the Casa de ku VeUtcu, once the
Alc&zar and now the Audiencia; the Casa de los QolpntB, -with its
beautiful facade ;the palace of the Count de la Torre Mayoralgo, contain-
ing an ancient statue of Diana ; the Casa del Ckmde de Adanero ; and
the Casa de los CarvajaleSj now the Diputaci6n Provincial. — A few
ancient statues have been placed in the acacia-shaded PUtza Afayor
or de la Constitucidnj the focus of the new town. — To the S.E. of
the town is the high-lying Santuario de Nuestra Senora de la Montana.
Fbom CicBBXS TO MftxiDA, 4611., railway (one train daily) in ca.
8 hrs. (fare* 9 p. 15, 6 p. 85, 4 p. 66 c), — The train runs towards the S.
2 M. Empaikne de ku Jfincu. We cross the Balor, which rises in the Sierra
d$ Montancht. 4Vs M. Aldea da Cano. Farther on we cross the Sierra
de San Pedro^ the watershed between the Tagns and the Guadiana, and
then descend to (24Vs H.) Oartnonita^ the first place in the Estremadnra
province -of Betdaioe. — 32 M. Carrcucalejo^ on the small river Aljuc^;
41 H. Aljuein (p. 457). — 46 M. Mirida, see p. 455.
48. From Madrid to Badajoz (Torre das Vargens^
Lisbon) vift Ciudad Beal, Almorchon, and M6rida.
316 U. Railway (two trains daily) in !X)-26 hrs. (fares 58 p. 65 c., 4 i p.,
29 p. 35 c.; to Lielxm (496 M.) in 88 36 hrs. — The trains stort from the
Estacidn del Mediodia (p. 62). There are poor railway -restanrants in
Ciudad JUal. Almorchdn, and Badajog; but it is well to be supplied with
more appetizing viands than they can snpply. — The journey through
Lower Estremadura is tedious and has little to offer in the way of scenery,
but has to be taken by those who wish to see Mirida and Badajoz. — For
the journey to Toledo^ see p. 126; direct route to LiAon^-^te p. 445.
From Madrid to (4'/2 M".) ViUaverde^ see p. 445. Our line now di-
verges to the right from the main line to Alcizar (RR. 29, 33). As
far as (9 M.) Oetafe (p. 275) we enjoy retrospects of Madrid and the
Gnadarrama Mts. — 171/2 M. Torre j6n de VelascOj in a dreary situa-
tion. In the foreground rise the Monies de Toledo (p. 128) ; vines
and olives begin to appear. — 22^/2 M. Yeles y Esquivias is the first
station in the province of Toledo. — 30 M. Pantoja y Alameda lies
amid corn-fields. To the right are the curiously formed Cerro de la
Saeristana and Cerro xde Arroyuelos. Beyond (36 M.) ViUaseea y
Mocej6n we cross the Tagus by a bridge 145 yds. long.
38 M. Algodor is the junction of the Gastillejo and Toledo rail-
way (pp. 126, 276).
Our line crosses the Algodor and ascends imperceptibly to the
low E. spurs of the Toledo Mts., separating the basin of the Tagns
from that of the Guadiana. — 51 M. Almonacid (2355 ft.), with an
old Moorish castle. — 56 M. Mora, with a ruined castle.
On the N. slope of the Sierra de Yibenee^ 5 M. to the W. of Mora, lies
Orgas, a small town with an old castle dominating an extensive district.
Near Orgaz are some large granite quarries.
to Badajo; OIUBAD REAL. 48. Route. 453
Beyond (681/2 M.) Mansaneque the train crosses the Sienra de
Y^enes by the Pass of Manzaneque (2493 ft.) and then descends
to (65 M.) Yibenea, in the valley of the Algodor. To the right lies
the desolate Dehesa de Ovadalersas , beyond which rises the Sierra
de Pocito, — 74 M. Urda is 3V2 M, from the little town of that
name, which lies to the E., at the foot of the Calderina (p. 301). —
We cross the crest of the Calderina and descend to the basin of the
Gnadiana. — 83 M, Emperador ; 94 M. Malag6n^ the first place In
the province of Ciudad Real, Beyond (9672 M.) Ferndn Caballero
we cross the Chiadiana by a four-arched bridge, 240 yds. long.
107 M. Ciudad Beal (2073 ft. ; HdUl Pizarroso, Calle de la
Paloma 15; Fonda de Baliasar Qarcta; Fonda de Miracklo; RaiL
Restaurant)^ founded by Alfonso the Learned in 1252 under the
name of Villarreal and rechristened by John VJ. in 1420, is now
an impoverished provincial capital, with 12,800 inhabitants. It lies
in the midst of a plain watered to the N. by the Guadiana and
to the S. by its tributary the Jabaldn, — From the railway-station,
lying to the S.W. of the town, we pass through the Puerta de Alarcos
into the Csdle d^Postas, from which the third side-street to the left
(Calle de la Vfrgen) leads to the P<ueo del Prado, Here stands Santa
Maria del Prado^ a huge Gothic church, without aisles, dedicated to
the tutelar of the town. Its main features of interest are the coro,
the organ, and the rotable by Oiraldo de Merlo (1616 ; with scenes
from the life of Christ and an image of the Virgin). — The Puerta
de Toledo, at the N. end of the town. Is in the Mud^jar style.
The pilgrimage-church of Nuettra Sefiora de Alanos, 7 M. to the W.
of Ciudad Beal, occupies the site of the town of Alarcos, which was
destroyed by the Almohades in 1195, after their defeat of Alfonso VKI.
From Giadad Beal to Manzanares, fee p. 301.
The Railway crosses the Jabalon and passes to the S.W. into
a hilly district. — 117 M. La Canada; 121 M. Caracuel; 127 M.
Argamasilla de Calatrava, on the W. margin of the Campo de Gala-
trava. — 131 M. Puertollano (2345 ft.) is also the station for Al-
mod6var del Campo, to the N.W. Rich seams of coal occur in the
vicinity. — The line turns to the W., ascends the valley of the
Jaraic^n, reaches its culminating point (2420 ft.), and then descends
to (142 M.) Veredas.
From Veredas the Puerto de Veredas leads to the S. over the moun-
tains to the Yalle de la Alcudia, a royal demesne 47 M. long and TVs M.
broad, used as pasturage for 300,000 migratory sheep (p. 444).
We now descend into the Val de Azogues ('quicksilver valley'),
with the richest quicksilver mines in Europe, if not in the world.
152 M. CaracoUera, with the Pozos de Valdeazogues, We pass La
Goncepcidn, the oldest of the mines.
168 M. Almadenejos y Almad^n. Almaden de Azogue, a clean
and prettily situated town (7800 inhab.), 6 M. to the N.W. of the
railway, with a Moorish castle and two mining academies, owes it?
importance to its valuable quicksilver mines, which may be visits
454 Route 48. ALM0RCH6N. From Madrid
with the permisBion of the Jefe or director. Almaden^o$ is a colony
of miners' cottages on the railway.
The MivKS of Almad^n (Arab, al-mcfden^ mine) were worked by tlie
Bomans and the Moors, and from 1535 to 1615 they were leased to the
Fnggers of Augsburg. The present mines, belonging to govemment but
partly in pledge to the Bothschilds of London, liave been worked since
the end of the 17th century. They consist of flye stages or galleries, tbe
lowest of which is about 1160 ft. below the surface. The actual mining
operations are carried on in a seam of cinnabar, 50 ft. thick, while at
Almadenejos the rare horn-mercury also occurs. The mercury is found
embedded in graywacke, slate, and qaartz , either as virgin ore (etzogue
virgm) or as red cinnabar i a grey variety of ore is known as fraileica.
The rock is penetrated by perpendicular shafts (pozot) and horizontal adits
(ranudeM). The lofty galleries, supported by masonry, are well wortli
seeing. — About 200,000 quintals (10,000 tons) of ore are annually raised,
from which about 10 per cent (20,000 quintals) of pxu>e metal is obtained.
It is packed for export in large iron vessels. — The 40(X) miners, working
day and night in six-hour shifts, suffer greatly from the poisonous ex-
halations of the ore. At one time convicts (prtsidiariot) were almost ex-
clusively employed, but they set fire to the works at the beginning of
last century. The Carlists drowned oat the mines} and they are now kept
clear by large steam-pumps.
The Distilling Fdknackb lie at the foot of the hill. The wood of
the cistus {Cistut ladani/erus^ p. 507) is used for fuel. The smelting opera-
tions are carried on in winter; even the btOoi, or bricks formed of the
sweepings of the galleries, yield 8 per cent of metal.
Between (178 M.) Chilldn and (181 U*') PedrocJies the train crosses
an iron bridge spanning the gorge of the Ouaddlmez, quits New
Castile^ and temporarily enters the Andalusian province of Cordova,
— 190 M. Belalcdzar. The small town, with a ruined castle of the
Knights of Alcantara (1145), lies 5 M. to the S., in the N. part of the
PedrocheSy a plateau 630 sq. M. In extent, forming the gentle N.
slope of the Sierra Morena. The surface is covered with crops, oak-
woods, and cistus-heaths, and is strewn with blocks of granite from
the formation below the soil, — We cross the ZHjar, 201 M. Cabeza
del Bxiey, in the pretty VaUe del Buey^ lies in the province of BaMjoz
(Estremadura).
204 M. Almorch6n (Rcdl. Restaurant)^ an unimportant place with
the remains of a Moorish castle, is the junction of a branch-railway
to Bilmez and Cordova (p. 303). To the S.W. rises the Sierra del
Pedroso; to the N. (right) lies the Ermita of the Virgen de BelSn.
Castuera (219 M.), Campanano (231 M.), and Magacela (238 M.)
lie on the 8. and W. margins of the Serena^ a semicircular district
bounded on the N. by the Guadiana and backed by the isolated
summits of the Sierra' Pela, the Sierra de Ouadalupe^ and the ^Sierra
de Montanchez.
La Serena is a plateau about 1150 ft. above the sea, watered by the
Ztijar and its tributaries and furrowed by numerous ravines. The geolog-
ical formation is partly slate and partly granite. The moorland pasture
of the surface forms an excellent feeding<ground for the migratory sheep
(p. 444). The entire plateau is encircled on the E., 8., and W., for a
'distance of over 50 M., by quartzite hills resembling volcanic craters. On
■'•n of these stood seven Moorish frontier-fortresses, known as Loi 8Ute
Ho8 de la Serena. The Serena belonged for a time to the Order of
itara and is now the property of the crown.
to Badajot. M^RIDA. 48. Route. 455
As we approach the Guadiana, the soil becomes more fertile. —
243 M. VUlanueva de la Serena (820 ft.), a town of 11,800 inhab.,
the line, hnerta of which produces excellent red wine and water
melons fsandfas). — 247 M. Don BerUto, a prettily situated town of
16,100 inhab., founded in 1477, is also famous for its melons. —
The train runs towards the W. on the left bank of the Guadiana, but
at some distance from the river. We cross the Ortigas.
251 M. MedeUfny the Metellinum of the Romans, was the birth-
place of Fernando Cortes (p. 423), whose house is still shown. The
poor-looking town lies on the slope of a hill crowned by an old castle
(view). The Guadiana is here spanned by a bridge, 456 yds. long.
By crossing the Guadiana we can reach the road leading to the N.W.
to TrujiUo (p. 448) and Logrosan (p. 44S), bnt the diligence-route from
M^rida is preferable.
We cross the Quadamez and pass four small stations. We then
cross the Guadiana by an iron bridge, 600 yds. long, supported by
11 piers. To the left is a hill with dislocated strata of slate, sur-
mounted by a castle. — 272 M. Don Alvaro, Large com-flelds, rose-
mary, olives, and opuntia cover the ground. We follow the right
bank of the Guadiana towards the N.W., pass the new aqueduct of
M^rida (p. 456), and then see to the right the arches of the Roman
aqueduct (p. 456).
279 M. MMda (640ft. ; Fonda del Leon, pens. 5 p., dirty; Fonda
de Diego 8egwra)^ a poverty-stricken town with 7600 Inhab., lies on
a low range of hills on the right bank of the Guadiana. Its Roman
structures, though for the most part in poor preservation, are more
important than those of any other town in Spain. They may be
visited in half-a-day (guide 2-3 p.).
M^rida, founded in B.C. 23 as Augutta Em^riia by the Roman legate
Jhtbliut Caritius^ was made the capital of Lusitania and soon acquired
such prosperity that it was somewhat grandiloquently called the ^Spanish
Bome\ In addition to the large public buildings, constructed almost
solely of granite, there are numerous ancient fragments immured in the
modem houses. Herida was also the metropolis of the Yisigothic Lusi-
tania, and the Chronicle of the Cid describes it as having 84 gates, 6 castles,
and 9700 (?) towers. In 713 it was taken by the Moors under ifflsa, after
a series of desperate contests; and thereafter was governed by Walls, who
repeatedly formed small Berber states here and generally succeeded in
maintaining their independence, even as against the mighty Caliphs of
Cordova. Of this new period of prosperity the Moor Rcuis writes that
*no man on earth can describe the wonders of M^rida\ After its reconquest
by Alfonso IX. of Leon in 122S, M^rida, of which the archbishopric had
been transferred to Santiago de Compostela in 1129, was handed over to
the Knights of Santiago and soon sank into a state of decay. The present
town covers only a small part of the area of ancient M^rida, and thus
most of the important Roman buildings are beyond its limits.
The centre of the town is the Plaza MATor or Plasa de la Con-
stitucidn, which is surrounded by arcades. Near it, to the W., are
the church of Santa Maria and the small Archaeological Museum. To
the E. is the Casa del Duque de la Boca, built in the Mud^jar styl^
in the 16th cent., and incorporating some Roman remains. — To tT
456 RouU48. M^RIDA. IVom Madrid
N. of the plaza Is the Casa del Candt de lo$ CotboSj in which are im-
mnred 40 columns of the Roman Temple of Diana, about 35 ft. high.
A few yards off is a Tkiumfhal Abch, 43 ft. in height, now named
the Arco de Santiago and robhed of its marble facing.
To the N.£. of the town, near the railway-station, are the church
and convent of Santa Eulalia, said to have been founded in the 4th
century. The Homo de Santa Eulalia, built about 1612 with the
relics of the Roman Temple of Mars, is piously believed to mark the
site of the oven in which the infant martyr (b. 292) suffered death
by roasting.
To the S. of the Plaza Mayor, amid the orchards on the bank of
the Guadiana, stands the Alcazak, originally a Roman building
expanded by the Moors in 835, and afterwards converted into a
convent, El Conventual, by the Knights of Santiago. It is now in
private hands. The gardener (fee Y^-l p.) shows some ancient re-
mains in a court and an interesting Roman (?) draw-well, with
marble lining and a double flight of steps descending to the water.
The outer wall affords a good view of the Roman bridge and of the
stream, which swarms with water-snakes. In the vestibule of the
gardener's lodge are curious zoological paintings of the 18th century.
The ohief lion of M^rida is the * Roman Bridge, which crosses
the Guadiana in 64 arches ; it is 1/2 M. long, 33 ft. high, and 21 ft.
wide. It was probably built under £mp. Augustus, was restored in
686 by Sala, the Visigothic Duke of Toledo, and was again renewed
and strengthened by Philip III. (1610). Some of its arches were
blown up in 1812, during the siege of Badajoz, to hinder the French
advance from Andalusia ; and it suffered considerable damage from
an inundation in 1877. On a sandbank to the S.£. is El Tajamar,
a Roman structure to protect the piers of the bridge in flood. — To
the N.W. is the bridge of the Seville railway (p. 460).
To the N.W. of the town, beyond the railway, lie the scanty
remains of the Roman Forwrn, beyond which are those of the *Roman
AaxjBDUOT, now called Los Mila^ros, The latter consists of 37 piers,
about 85 ft. high, and 10 arches, rising in three tiers and built of
brick and granite. — A little to the N. is another Roman Bbidge,
160 yds. long and 26 ft. wide, which crosses the small river AWar-
tegas (Alba regia).
The Madrid road, to the E. of the town, leads to the less ancient
Aqueduct J with its 140 arches. A little to the S.E. of this, in the
marshy floor of the valley, are traces of the Circus MaximuSf which
was 484 yds. long and 118 yds. broad. — By following the aqueduct
to the S.W. we reach the very scanty remains of the Amphitheatre,
adjoining which is the * Roman Theatre, known as Las Siete SUlas
from the seven divisions of the seats. Its walls are of astounding
thickness. A fine view of Mtfrida is enjoyed from the uppermost
rows. — Farther on in the same direction is the so-called Bono de
las MoroSf probably the remains of a Roman Naumachia,
to BadajoK. BADAJOZ. 48. Route. 457
About 3 M. to the "S. of M^rida lies the Lago de Proserpina or La
Chorea de laAlbueray an enormous artificial basin or tank, constructed by
the B'omanSf with towers (hocines) containing stairs descending to the water.
— There is a similar reservoir at TruJiUanos, 6 M. to the N.E., on the road
to Tmjillo (p. 448) ^ this is named La Albuera de Comalvo , and is taken
by many authorities for a naumachia.
From M^rida to Cdeeres and Arroyo de Maipartida, see pp. 462, 461 ; to
^q/Va, Tocinoy and BeviUe^ see R. 49.
Beyond M^rida the tiain crosses the AWarregas (p. 456) and at
(283 M.) Aljuc6n the stream of that name. Here the line to Ciceres
diverges to the right. In the foreground appears the /Sierra de las
VfborcUj infested, like the Sierra de Montanchez, by numerous vipers,
which are eaten by the pigs and are said to give their flesh an
excellent flavour. To the left, between the railway and the Guadiana,
extends the grain-growing Vega del Quadiana, — Beyond (288 M.)
OarrovUla we cross seven bridges over the various arms of the
Lacara. — 294 M. MontijOj from which the Empress Eugenie took
her title of Countess of Montijo.
To the S. of Montijo lies Puebla de la CalzadOf the parish-church of
which contains ten scenes from the Passion by Morales.
306 M. Talavera la Real, an insignificant place on the S. bank
of the Guadiana, which the train again nears. Beyond the Ouivora,
a stream descending from the Serra de Sao Mamede (p. 451), we
obtain a good view to the left of Badajoz, rising over the S. bank
of the Guadiana. The train skirts the N. side of the Cerro de 8an
Cristdbalj with the fort named below.
316 M. Badajoz. — The Railway Station (ReetaurarU) lies 1 M. to the
N.W. of the town, on the W. side of the Cerro de Cristobal. Omnibutes
meet all trains.
Hotel. Hdlel Central^ Campo de San Juan.
Badajoz (510 ft.), the capital of a province, the see of a bishop,
the seat of the Captain-General of Estremadura, and a strong frontier
fortress, is a town of 25,900 inhab., owing its importance to its
position on a low range of hills, which the Guadiana has penetrated
between the castle-hill on the left and the Cerro de San Cristdbal
on the right. It is surrounded by a rampart with eight bastions and
four small forts : San Roque and Picurina to the E. (beyond the little
Rivillas), Pardaleras to the S., and San Vicente to the W. On the
right bank of the Guadiana it is farther protected by a tete-de-pont
and the strong Faerte de San OrUt6hal, The last-named fort and the
Castillo (adm. only by permit from the Capitania General) afford fine
views of the corn-fields and pastures round the town.
Badi^oz, the Batallium or Pax Augmta of the Romans, is little heard
of in antiquity. After the fall of the Caliphate of Cordova, the Beni al-A/ta*
or Aftateide* established a small independent kingdom at *Badalioz\ This,
however, was overthrown by the Almoravidet (p. 309) in 1094, eight years
after their defeat of Alfonso VI. of Castile at Sacralias or Sallaca, near
Badajoz. Alfonso I. of Portugal occupied the place in 1168, but its final
deliverance from the Moors was effected by Al/otuo IX. of Leon in 1229.
As the 'key of Portugal", Badajoz plays an important role in mode*'-
history. It was besieged by the Portuguese in 1660 and by the Alliei
468 Route 48. BADAJOZ.
the War of the Spanish Succesiion In 1705. The French made UBSuceeasf ul
attempts to capture it in 1806 and 1809, and Soolt succeeded in doing so
in 1811 only by the corruption of Jo*i Imaz^ the Spanish commander. The
result was that Andalusia remained a year longer in the hands of the
French. Wellington invested Badajoz in March, 1812, and its capiare by
assault on April 6fh was one of the most brilliant achievementa of the
British army during the Peninsular War. The besiegers lost 5000 killed
and wounded. Perhaps it is not too frivolous to remind the reader that
Ben Battle 4eft his legs in Badajoz's breaches\
From the railway-station we enter the town^by the granite Pubntb
DB LAS Palmas, Completed In 1596 after a plan by Herrera, wliich
crosses the river in 32 arches. It is 640 yds. long, 23 ft. wide, and
45 ft. high. At the town end is the embattled Puerta de las PcUmtis.
The bridge has often been damaged by floods.
The Calle de Oabriel, beginning at the gate, is prolonged by the
Calle de Hemdn Cortes, in which (right) is the Palacio de la Dipu-
taci6n Ptovineial , containing the small Museo ArqueoUSgico. This
street leads ns to the Campo de San Juan or Plaza de la CoruHtuddnj
the focus of the town, surrounded by the town-hall, a theatre, sev-
eral caf^s, and the cathedral.
The Cathbdhal op St. Juan is a massive, fortress-like building,
erected about 1258 by Alfonso the Learned. The Renaissance facade,
with a statue of John the Baptist, is of modern origin.
Iktkbiob. The effect is marred by the obtrusive position of the large
Renaissance coro, with its fine SiUeria, The painting of the Magdalen,
ascribed to Van Dyck, is really by Maieo de Cerezo. The OapiUa de Santa
Ana contains two works by Luis Morales (1509-86), sumamed El JHvno,
who was a native of Badajoz; they have, unfortunately, been retouched.
Over the altar of the Gapilla de los Duques is a Florentine relief of the
Madonna (16th cent.). On the floor in front of it is the brass, probably by
the Venetian Aleeeandro Leopardi, of Lorenzo Suarez de Figueroa, who
died in 1606 as Spanish ambassador in Venice.
The Calle de San Juan leads from the N.E. angle of the plaza to
the church of La Concepcidn, with two pictures by Morales. Farther
on are the CasUllo (p. 457), probably on the site of the old Roman
town, and the HoapiiaX Military erected on the site of the Moorish
mosque which was for a time used as a cathedral.
In the S.W. part of the town are the Palacio Episcopal (Calle de
Moreno Nieto) and the Plaaa de San Francisco, an attractive prom-
enade. The Cuartel de la Boniba (cavalry barracks) on the S. side
of this plaza occupy the site of the Moorish Alcazaba.
From Badajoz to Torre doe Vargent and Uebon^ see B. 60.
49. From Seville to M^rida (Badajoz ^ Lisbon)
vi& Tocina and Zafra.
149 M. Eailwat (two trains daily) in SV^ISV* hrs. (fares 80 p. 6 c,
22 p., 16 p.); to ZAtbon, 866 M., direct through-train in 2i hrs. Trains start
from the Eetaeidn de Cdrdoba (p. 387). There is no railway-restaurant «n
route, so the traveller should not forget a luncheon-basket. — This line
is the direct route from Seville to Portugal for all who do not prefer the
ZAFRA. 49. Route. 459
sea-Toy^e from Cadiz to Lisbon (comp. p. 436). It traverses some pretty
scenery, especially in the Sierra Morena.
From Seville to (22 M.) Tocma (Empalme), see p. 305. The
train crosses the Ouadalquivir by a bridge 550 yds. long and enters
the valley of its N. tributary; the Huema. —24 M. Tocina(Puehlo);
271/2 M. Villanueva de las Minos, with valuable coal-pits. — We
now cross to the right bank. 47 M. Fdbrica del Pedr6sOy with large
iron-mines, foundries, and forges.
53 M. Cazalla de la Sierra, a busy nkiniug town, with iron
foundries and 7100 inhab., prettily situated In the Sierra Morena.
— The train quits the valley of the Huema and beyond (60 M.)
Alanfs crosses the Benalijar. It then ascends, passing (68 M.)
Chiodaleanal (5800 inhab.), with its deserted lead and silver mines,
to the Puerto de Sevilla or de Llerena, where it crosses the frontier
between Andalusia and Lower Estremadura in a tunnel 1100 yds.
long. — We now descend to the S.W., skirting the N.W. slope of
the Sierra de San Miguel. 76 M. Fuente del Arco, the first place in
the province of Badajoz; 80 M. Castis y Reina.
84 M. Llerena (1863 ft.), a town of 5700 inhab., long in the
hands of the Knights of Santiago after its recapture from the Moors
(1241). The Parroquia de la Oranada, a handsome Renaissance
edifice, has a tower, 174 ft. high, erected in imitation of the Giralda
of Seville. — We penetrate the spurs of the Sierra de San Miguel
by three short tunnels. 90 M. Viliagarcta, with a ruined castle.
109 M. Zafra (Posada de Pepe), a venerable town with 5500 in-
hab., the Segeda of the Iberians, the Julia Restituta of the Romans,
and the Z&far of the Moors, is picturesquely situated between the
Sierra de San Cristdbal on the N. and the Sierra de Castellar on the
W. The energy of its inhabitants has won it the by-name of * Se-
villa la Ghica*. Celebrated cattle-fairs (Feria de San Juan and Feria
de San Miguel) are held here in June and October. — The chief
point of interest is the *Aloazab, a Gothic building on a lofty
situation to the £., reached by the Puerta del Acebuche, This was
the seat of the Figueroas, Dukes of Feria , now Dukes of Medina-
celi. It was built by Lorenzo Suarez de Figueroa in 1437, and with
its old towers and galleries affords an admirable example of a Spanish
feudal palace. The patio was modernized in the 16th century. The
only relic left by the French (1811) of the large collection of wea-
pons is an iron-hooped cannon. — The Convento de Santa Maria
contains the tomb of Lady Margaret Harrington (1601), a lady-in-
waiting of Jane Dormer (see below). In the Convenio de Santa Clara
is the tomb of Lorenzo Suarez de Figueroa, Count of Feria, and his
wife Isabella de Mendoza (d. 1693) ; it was mutilated by the French.
Here, too, is the tomb of Jane Dormer (d. 1612), the favourite maid-
of-honour of Mary the Catholic of England and afterwards wife of
the first Duke of Feria.
From Zafra to Huelva, see p. 425.
460 Route 49. ALMENDRALEJO.
The railway now sweeps round to tbe N.E. Beyond (115 M.^
Lo8 Santos de Maimona it descends to the N. to (122 M.) ViUafranca
dt Zo«Barro« (9400 inhab.), the first place in the fertile, but almost
treeless Tierra de los Barron, — 131 M. Ahnend^aleio^ a flonrishing
town with 11,900 Inhab., in the midst of the Tierra de los Barros.
— Beyond (145 M.) CalOmonU we cross the Gnadiana by an iron
bridge 385 yds. long, affording a yiew to the right of the Roman
bridge (p. 456).
149 M. Minda, see p. 455.
Vli. LEON, ASTURIAS, AND QALICIA.
60. From Medina del Gampo to Salamanca, Fuente San
Esttfban, and Vlllar Formoso (Pampllhosa, Lisbon) . 464
From Salamanca to Plasencia ^ to Aatorga (Zamora), 472.
51. From Palencla to Leon and Corunna 473
From Corunna to Ferrol, 484.
62. From Leon to Oviedo and Gijon 484
Excursions from Oviedo. Naranco. Trubia. Covadonga,
488. — From Gijon to Avil^a and Villaviciosa, 491.
53. From Monforte to Vigo and Santiago de Oompostela . 491
From Guillarey to Yalen^a do Hinho. Tuy, 493. — Ex-
cursions from Vigo. Bayona, etc., 494.
For introductory remarks on Ijeon, see pp. 6-8.
The former kingdom of Galida^ occupying the N.W. corner of
the Iberian peninsula, now comprises the provinces of Coruna, Lugo^
OrensCj and Pontevedray with 4,000,000 inhab. and a joint area of
11,340 sq. M. On the N. and W. it is bounded by the Atlantic
Ocean, on the S. by Portugal, and on the E. by Leon and Asturias.
The last, the old FHncipado de AatHriaa, is represented by the single
province of Oviedo, 4093 sq. M. in area and containing 620,000 in-
habitants. On the N. it is bounded by the Bay of Biscay, oh the
S. by the crest of the Cantabrian Mts. , and on the E, by the province
of Santander.
Both districts are of a pronouncedly Alpine character and belong
without question to the most beautiful parts of Spain and Indeed of
Europe. Their scenic charm depends mainly on the varied and pic-
turesque disposition of the mountain-chains, which ramify in all .
directions and form a perfect labyrinth of peaks and ridges, valleys
and ravines. The general aspect of Oalicia is somewhat softer and
more attractive than that of Asturias ; its mountain-slopes are more
thickly wooded, the crests and valleys have more pastures and mead-
ows, while its coasts, penetrated by deep *rias* (fjords) and sprinkled
with safe and roomy harbours, make a pleasanter and more hospitable
impression. In Asturias, on the other hand, the mountains are less
accessible, the ravines are steeper and more chaotic, and the top-
most peaks generally consist of forbidding masses of rock, covered
with snow throughout the greater part of the year, while the coast
is lined by an almost unbroken series of sheer and unapproachable
cliffs. In both districts the whole of the available surface is care- '
fully cultivated and produces, thanks to the moist and equable
climate, most bounteous crops. The villages are generally em-
bosomed in grovM of fruit-trees, chestnuts, and walnuts ; and in
the more sheltered situations vines, olives, almonds, figs, a'
462 LEON, ASTURIAS, AND GALICIA.
oranges also fioarish. Large numbers of cattle are raised in tlie
higher lying districts, and fishing is actiyely prosecuted along the
coasts. Both Galicia and Asturias are rich in iron, lead, and other
ores, and in mineral springs, including sulphuretted waters of im-
portant medicinal quality. Asturias also possesses extensiTe deposits
of coal, and peat and amber are found in its coast^plains.
The differences in character between theGalicians and the Astur^
ians correspond to those of their countries. The Asturians spring from
the union of the aboriginal inhabitants with the Goths and consider
themselves, like the Basques, free and independent hidalgos. They
have all the traits of ancient and self-conscious mountaineers, with
much reserve and little grace of manner, but are honest and trust-
worthy, showing great boldness as mariners and forming admirable
soldiers and colonists. The *Galleg08' are more closely akin to the
Portuguese than to any other Spanish race. I'hey spring from a
blending of the original Celtic inhabitants with the Romans, Vandals,
Suevi, Goths, Moors, and Castilians ; and they exhibit all the pe-
culiarities of people who have been exposed during many centuries
to the influence and domination of foreign conquerors. Almost
devoid of all independent spirit, they are much better suited for
servants than for masters. They are docile and good-natured,
temperate and frugal, ready for any task, full of piety and under
the thumb of the priesthood. In comparison with other Spaniards
they seem heavy and limited ; on the stage the part of the slow-
witted and good-humoured simpleton is always assigned to the
Galician, and in Central and S. Spain the epithet ^Gallego' is used
as a term of abuse.
In one point the Galicians and Asturians share the same fate ;
both are poor, in spite of their unremitting toil and the natural
resources of their countries. The population is too dense, especially
in Galicia, and the peasant is too heavily taxed ever to attain the
freehold of his patch of land. Thousands emigrate annually to S.
America, Portugal, and other parts of Spain, where they earn their
bread as peasants, porters, and scavengers. The women are much in
request as nurses. Like the Basques, however, they are possessed
by an inextinguishable love of their country ; and those who save a
little money in foreign parts invariably return to finish their laborious
lives at home. Physically both Asturians and Galicians are strongly
built and robust, while the complexions of the women are fresh and
healthy} beauties, however, are rare in either sex.
In point of education both districts stand on a low level. At
the beginning of 1895 the communities of Galicia and Asturias
were in debt to the school-masters to the amount of about 360,000
pesetas (in the whole of Spain 10,527,319 pesetas). The means
of transportation are also very inadequate. The hotels, on the other
^and, at least in the larger towns, are no worse than in other parts
'■^ain.
LEONj-ASTURlAS, AND GALIOIA. 463
HisTOBY. The Phcenicians and Cartliaginians never snoceeded
in penetrating into the interior of Asturias. The Romans took two
hundred years to snhdne it, and the Goths also had to struggle long
and fiercely before attaining a firm foothold here. The attempts of
the Moors to reduce it under their domination were entirely unsuc-
cessful. The fragments of the Qothic army that was defeated on
the Gnadalete found shelter in the mountains round Oovadonga; and
Pelayo, voluntarily accepted by the Asturians as their leader, began
from this fastness the Christian reconquest of Spain. Asturias must
be regarded as the cradle not only of the kingdom of Leon but of
the Spanish monarchy as a whole. The title of Prince of Asturias,
borne by the heir-apparent to the Spanish throne, dates from 1388,
when the district was made a principality. Galicia was twice for a
short time an independent kingdom (585 and 1060-71) before its
final incorporation with Leon (1071). The Moors failed here also
in securing any permanent foothold. At the beginning of the present
century both Asturias and Galicia were repeatedly and ruthlessly
devastated by the French under Soult, Ney, and Marchand.
464
50. From Medina del Campo to Salamanca, Fuente San
EsMban, and Villar Formoso (Pampil/iosa, Lisbon J.
iO&i/t M. Railway (one through -tnin daily) in 6Vs hrs. (fares 24 p.,
18 p. 5. 10 p. POc); to Salamanca, 48 M.. two trains daUy in 2^jU hrs.
(farea o p. 90, 6 p. 65 c, 4 p.). The 'train ae luxe* mentioned at p. 8 runs
twice weekly between Medina del Campo and Lisbon in I6V2 lurs. (to Lisbon
on Wed. and San., from Lisbon on Toes, and Frid.). There are plsdn
railway restaurants at Fvente San EtUban and" Villar Formoto. — From
Fuente San Est^ban to Barca d'Alva and Oporto, see B. 69.
Medina del CampOy see p. 19. — The line sweeps round the
town in a wide curve and then runs to the S.W. through an inter-
minable, grain-growing plain. 7^2 M. Campillo de Salvatierra.
131/2 M. Carpio, with the old palace of the counts of that name.
We cross the Trabancos, an affluent of the Douro, by an lion bridge
132 ft. long. 20 V2 M. CanteUapiedrOj the first station in the Leonine
province of Salamanca. The train crosses the Ouarena^ and soon
after its tributary the CotorriUo.
27 M. CaroUna; 33 M. Pedroso; 4OV2 M; Oomecello. — A hilly
district is now traversed. 44 M. MorUros. — 48 M. Salamanca.
Salamanca. — Arrival. The Raiheaif SUUion (beyond PI. D, 1) lies
to the N.E. of the city, IV4 H. from the Plaza Mayor. Hotel OmnHnues and
the Omnibus Oeneralet (p. xvi) meet the trains, but no cabs. — Detpcuho Central
(p. xvi), at the N.W. corner of the Plaza Mayor.
Hotels (comp. p. xx). Hotel del Gokebcio (PI. a; G, 3), Plazuela de
Santo Tome, in ttie Spanish style, pens. 7-10, omn. 1 p. ; *Hotsl ds la Bcb-
GALESA (PI. D -y G, 3), Galle de Espoz y Hina, unpretending, pens. 6-7 p.
Cafes. Cafi del Pasaje^ in the passage on the W. side of the Plaza
Mayor; Ca/i Sttizo^ Galle de Zamora, near the Plaza Mayor; Ca/i-Re^v-
rant de la Universidad, Galle de la Bua 65.
Post Office {Correo ; PI. G, 3), on the W. side of the Plaza Mayor.
Baths on the S. side of the Plaza San Francisco.
Booksellers : Viuda de Galon e Hijo^ Plaza Mayor 33 (also photographs).
Bull Bing (PUua de Torot)^ one of the largest in Spain, to the N. of
the town, V2 M. from the old Puerta de Zamora (PI. G, 1, 2).
Chief Attractions (visit of one day). PUua Mayor (p. 465) ; Ckua de la*
Conchas (p. 466) 3, iVetr and Old Cathedrals (pp. 466, 467) ; Roman Bridge (p. 471);
University (p. 468) ; San Estihan (p. 46'^} ; Torre del Cldvero (p. 470); Casa de la
SaUna (p. 470) ; Agustinas Church (p. 470).
Salamanca (2645 ft.), a city with 22,000 inhab., the capital of
a province, the see of a bishop, and the seat of a venerable and
celebrated university, deserves a visit not alone for its historical
associations, but also for the number of interesting buildings of its
zenith that it still retains. These are all built of the same material,
a light-coloured sandstone to which the course of time has imparted
a wonderful golden-brown hue. The situation of the city, in the
gradual slope to the N. of the Tormes and in the midst of an almost
treeless upland plain, has few attractions, though it is saved from
".bsolute dreariness by the distant view of the summits — often clad
^ snow — of the Pena de Francia to the S. and the Sierra de
;! i 111*1 a 4n '"- -jf. ' 3?>:bi»J j- liti'Salilort'omaii
^f s
\
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tJfto^riplu ATMlttJlvonr
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*Hn«'*'llt*M,>rrL,
SALAMANCA. Route 50, 465
Avila to the S.E. The climate is marked by the most extreme con-
trasts; the winter is almost as raw as at Burgos or Avila, the sum-
mer is insnpportably hot.
Salamanca is tbe ancient Salmantica^ which was captured by Hannibal
in B.C. 217 and afterwards belonged to the Boman province of Luaitania.
During the Moorish supremacy the city was taken and retaken more than
once. It attained to new importance under Alfonso VI. of Castile, who
about the year 1100 summoned many French and other settlers into tbe
district, and encouraged Count Baymond of Burgundy and his wife the In-
fanta TJrraca, the so-called ^Condes Bepobladores^, to enlarge and beautify
the city. The celebrated Fuero de Salamanca, or ancient civic law of Salamanca,
probably dates from the end of the 12th century. The international reputation
of the city was, however, due to its University, founded by Alfonso IX. of
Leon (d. 1290). This quickly outshone the Castilian university at Palencia,
and as early as 1254 it was placed by Pope Alexander IV. on a par with
the three great universities of Bologna, Paris, and Oxford. The charac-
teristic function of this great institution, which at the height of its fame
(16ih cent.) was attended by 7000 students from all parts of the civilized
world, was to introduce the learning of Arabia to the rest of Europe.
Salamanca^s share in the revolt of the Comuneros (p. 64) entailed no evil
results ; the decline of the city began when Philip II. transferred the court
from Toledo to Valladolid and when the Moriscoea were expelled in 1610.
Fresh blows were inflicted on it by the War of the Spanish Succession and by
the War of Liberation a century later. In 1811 tbe French under Tfaiebaut
converted Salamanca into a fortified place and pulled down almost the
whole of the S.W. part of the town. Next year, after the battle of Sala-
manca or Arapiles (see p. 472), it was ruthlessly plundered and devastated
by the French trrops.
In approaching the city from the railway-station, we pass between
(left) the AlamedUla (p. 471) and the (right) Old BuU Bing and enter
by the former Puerta de Zamora (PI. C, 1, 2). The Calle de Zamora,
a wide but little frequented street, leads hence to the S., passing
(right) the church of San Marcos (PI. C, 2), a curious circular struc-
ture in the Romanesque style, dating from about 1200. The interior
is interesting for the ingenuity with which the usual three apses of
Spanish churches haye been combined with the circular shape of
the church. Farther on are the Plazuela de Santo Tom^, the Plazuela
de la Libertad (PI. C, 3), and (left) the Palacio de lot Maldonados
de Amatos (now a casino). The Calle de Zamora ends at the large —
*Flaza Mayor (PI. C, 3), the centre of the city, the scene of the
bull-fights down to 1863, and the finest square of the kind in Spain.
It is surrounded with lofty four -storied buildings, dating from
1710-80, with colonnades on the groundfloor, greatly frequented as
promenades, especially in the evening. The houses on the E. and
S. sides bear portrait-medallions. On the N. side rises the Casa de
Ayuntamiento (PI. 0, 3), a baroque structure by Churriguera. The
centre is occupied by pleasure-grounds and a music pavilion. —
To the E. of the Plaza Mayor is the Plaza de laVerdura (PI. C, 3, 4),
or vegetable-market. — The Calle del Prior leads to the W. to the
Agustinas church (p. 470).
The passage at the S.W. angle of the Plaza Mayor leads to the
church of San Martin (PI. C, 4), a late-Romanesque edifice in the
so-called Transition style, said to have been originally founded in
BAEDEfEs's Spain. 30
466 Route 50, SALAMANCA. New Cathedral,
1103. On the N. side is a Romanesqae doorway, with curious
capitals and mouldings and a painted relief of St. Martin (on hone-
back) and the beggar (13th cent.). The Renaissance portal on the
S. side has another representation of the same scene. The interior
contains seven fine Gothic • Tombs, two under the coro alto, two in
the right aisle, . and three in the left. The most beautiful are, per-
haps, the mnral monuments of Ruberte and Diego de Santisteban
(15th cent.), both in the left aisle.
From the S. side of St. Martin's Church the Calle de la Rua leads
to the 8.W. directly to the cathedral. To the right, about halfway,
at the comer of the Calle de Melendez, stands the Gothic Casa de
las Conohas (PI. B, 4), dating from 1514 and named from the
scallop-shells that sprinkle the facades and are repeated in the
beautiful Gothic window-grilles. The picturesque court and the
vaulting of the staircase are also interesting (fee 50 c.). It is the
property of the Marquis de Valdecartana. — Opposite, in the Calle
de Melendez, is the Seminabio Cokciliab (PI. 6, 4), or Colegio de
la Compania, built for the Jesuits in 1617-1750, from a design by
Juan Oomes de Mora, and covering an area of 23,900 sq. yds. The
large baroque church is surmounted by a dome.
The Plaza del Colboio Vdbjo (PI. A, 5), laid out by Gen. Thie-
baut in 1811, is bounded on the W. by the University (p. 468) and
the Palacio EpUcopal (PI. B, 5; 1436), on the N.E. by the former
Colegio VUjo or de 8an BartolomS, founded by Diego de Anaya
(p. 468) in 1401 and rebuilt since 1760, and on the S. by the New
Cathedral.
The erection of the *Catedral Kneva (PI. B, 6) was contem-
plated by the 'Catholic Kings' as early as 1491, as the old cathedral
was found 'very small, very dark, and very low' ; but the building
was not actually begun till 1509, under the superintendence of
Anton Egos and Alonso Rodriguez. Differences of opinion with
the cathedral chapter led in 1512 to the appointment of a commission
of nine architects and to several alterations in the design. Juan Gil
de Hontanon became the supervising architect in 1513. Numerous
later interruptions occurred, and the work was not Anally completed
till 1733. The cathedral thus affords, not exactly to its artistic ad-
vantage, a record in stone of the lapse of time and the changes of
taste. The late-Gothic, the plateresque, and the baroque styles
may all be studied here side by side. The tower at the S.W.
angle (360 ft. high) was enclosed, after the Lisbon earthquake
(p. 520), with an unsightly casing of brick.
The W. Facade is profusely adorned with sculpture. Over the
main doorway are reliefs of the Adoration of the Shepherds, the
Crucifixion, and other subjects. — Above the N. portal, named the
Puerta de Barnes or del Taller, is a relief of Christ entering Jerusalem.
The •Intfbioe (open till 5 p.m.; closed chapels and cloisters
shown by the verger for a fee of 1 p.), with nave and aisles, two
Old Cathedral. SALAMANCA. dO. Route. 467
rows of side-cliapels, a transept, and an ambulatory, is very im-
posing, in spite of the intrusion of the coro and the unpleasing
baroque crossing, on account of its great height and width and the
gorgeousness of its colour decorations. It is 340 ft. long and 168 ft.
wide. Two balustrades, resembling trifoiia, run round the whole
church; the older of these, in the late-Gothic style, is accompanied
by a charming frieze of animals and coats-of-arms and extends along
the aisles to the ambulatory; the later, in the Renaissance style,
runs along the nave to the capllla mayor. Above the balustrades
are fine medallions with portrait-busts.
Most of the other works of art are insignificant. On the Trascoro
are a statue of John the Baptist and a group of St. Anna and the
Virgin, both ascribed to Juan de Juni. — The Choir contains stalls,
richly adorned with figures and heads of saints. — On the screen
of the Oapilla Mayor are angel-figures by Salvador Carmona,
Right Aisle. The Capilla Dorada (2nd chapel), built by Arch-
deacon Francisco Sanchez de Palenzuela in 1624, contains fine
*azulejos' and numerous statuettes of saints. By the S. wall are the
tomb of the founder (d. 1630) and a skeleton, with the inscription
*memento mori'. On the W. is a small and charming organ-screen.
— The Capilla del Presidertte de lAihana (3rd) contains a copy of
TitiarCs Entombment — Adjoining the door leading to the Old
Cathedral (p. 468) is a charming Holy Family ascribed to Morales (?).
In the second chapel of the Ambulatory, beyond the Puerta
del Patio Chico (see below), is a door leading to the Sacristia (1766).
Adjoining this is the RelicariOy with the celebrated bronze Crucifix
of the Cid (p. 26), brought to Salamanca by Bishop Jeronimo Vis-
quio (see below), an ivory Madonna of the 14th cent. (?), and other
treasures. — In the dim Capilla de los Dolores^ adjoining the fourth
chapel of the ambulatory (Cap. de San Jose)^ is a Pietk by Salvador
Carmona. — The Capilla del Carmen (6th), behind the high-altar,
contains the modern tomb of Jer6nimo Visquio, the famous comrade
of the Cid and afterwards bishop of Salamanca, and his crucifix, the
'Cristo de las Batallas' (11th cent.).
The Capilla de San Antonio de Padua^ the first chapel beyond the
transept in the Left Aisle, contains three good paintings by Fer-
nando Oallegos : Virgin and Child, St. Christopher, St. Andrew.
The late -Romanesque *Catedral Vieja (PI. B, 6), or Santa
Maria de la Sede, founded about 1100 by Count Raymond of Bur-
gundy (?) but probably not finished till 100 years later, is one of the
grandest creations of the Transition style in Spain. Owing to the
massive thickness of its walls (ca. 10 ft.), it is also known as Fortis
Salmantina (comp. p. 403). The W. Fa^ade^ the door of which is
generally closed, has been entirely modernized. The best view of
the E. end of the church, with its three semicircular apses and its
magnificent lantern, is obtained from the Patio Chico, the small
plaza adjoining the door of that name in the New Cathedral (see above}
30*
468 Route 50, SALAMANCA. Vniversity.
The lantern, named the Torre del Qallo from the cock on Its apex,
is in the form of an octagonal tower, adorned with arcades and
furnished with projecting gables and four round corner- turrets.
Mr. Street writes that he had seldom seen 'any central lantern more
thoroughly good and effective from every point of view than this is\
The Inte&iob fentered from the S. aisle of the New Cathe-
dral ; see p. 467), 180 ft. in length, is remarkable for its massive
but harmonious proportions. The dome over the crossing is *a rare
feature treated with rare success and with complete originality'.
The N. transept was removed to make room for the New Cathedral.
The most striking part of the decoration of the church consists in
the fantastic figures of men and animals, the imps, and other sculp-
tures on the capitals, corbels, and lower ends of the groining ribs.
The principal apse contains a huge fresco of the Last Judgment,
below which , in Gothic frames, are 65 smaller frescoes of scenes
from the Life of Christ. These are all by Nicola Florentino, of the
school of Giotto, and were painted after 1446. — In the S. transept,
which contains several Gothic tombs, is a door leading to the —
Cloistbks (Claustro)^ built about 1178 and containing a few un-
important paintings and monuments. The E. walk is adjoined by
two interesting chapels. The first of these is the *Capilla de Tala-
vera^ founded about 1510 for the Mozarabic ritual (p. 135), which
is still celebrated here six times yearly. It contains the tomb of
Rodrigo Arias Maldonado de Talavera (d. 1517). The parallel
arrangement of the groining ribs is unusual. The second chapel is
the Gothic Capilla de Santa Barbara^ founded in 1344 by Bishop
Juan Lucero. — To the S. of the cloisters is the Capilla de San
BartolomSj founded in 1422 by Diego de Anaya, Bishop of Sala-
manca, ambassador of Spain to the Council of Constance, and after-
wards Archbishop of Seville. It contains the •Monument of the
founder (d. 1437), and the tombs of several members of his family.
The Calle de San Juan de Sahagun, descending to the S.W.
from the Old Cathedral, ends at the Puente Romano (p. 471). —
The Calle de Calderon de la Baria, beginning opposite the facade
of the New Cathedral, leads to the —
♦Plazubla db la. Univbbsidad, a quiet little square, with a
bronze statue of the poet Fray Luis de Leon (1628-91), by Nicasio
Sevilla (1869). On its S. side stand the old Eseuelaa Menores
(PI. B, 6), now the Instituto Provincialy with a plateresque facade
and two charming doorways, one leading to the Archives^ the other
to an elegant court and the Hospital del Estudio,
Of more importance is the Universidad (PI. B, 5), or Escuelas
Mayoresy on the E. side of the plaza. The university was originally
built in an unassuming style in 1415-33. About 1480, however,
the upper part was entirely rebuilt by the 'Catholic Kings', and the
side provided with a rich •Facade, forming one of the most
'ant examples of the plateresque style and profusely adorned
SanEsteban. SALAMANCA. 60. BouU. 469
with armorial bearings, busts, and otber ornaments. Above tbe
central jamb of the doorway are half-figures of Ferdinand and Isa-
bella, enclosed in a frame with a Greek inscription. Higher up is
a good relief of a Pope and other persons, of unknown import.
The rooms of the university are grouped round a simple, cloister-
like court. (The custodian is to be found here or on the first floor
of tjie Archivo, p. 468 ; fee ^/^-i p.). On the Ground Floor
one of the old Lecture Booms, said to have been that of Fray Luis
de Leon (see above), has been preserved ; it is a gloomy chamber,
with the professor's cathedra and uneasy wooden benches for the
students. Adjacent are the Paraninfo, the Sala de Qrados, and other
more modem-looking apartments. The University Chapel was remod-
elled ^nd spoiled in 1767. — A staircase, with a Gothic balustrade
and curious reliefs (bull-fights of the 15th cent., etc.), ascends to
the First Floor, on the W. side of which are a corridor with a fine
artesonado ceiling and the University Library (SO flOO vo\s.\fo\md.ed
by Alfonso the Learned in 1254. — The number of students is now
about 400.
We return to the cathedral and follow the Calle del Tostado to
the E. to (4 min.) the church of —
•San Est^ban (PI. 0, 5), or Santo Dominffo^ erected in 1524-
1610, from the designs of Juan de Alava, by the Dominicans, who
had settled in Salamanca in 1256. The rich plateresque facade is
ornamented with numerous figures of saints, a charming frieze of
fantastic figures of men and beasts , and a relief of the Stoning of
St. Stephen by Qiovanni Antonio Ceroni of Milan (1610). — The
ground-plan of the Interior shows an aisleless nave flanked with
chapels , a transept, and a rectangular choir, with a fine dome over
the crossing. The general effect is much marred by the three heavy,
over-decorated, and richly gilt baroque altars by Churriguera. The
retablo of the high-altar is adorned with statues of saints by Salvador
Carmona, with the highly revered bronze group of the Virgen de la
Vega (12th cent.), from the suppressed Convento de la Vega (p. 470),
and with a Stoning of Stephen, painted by Claudio Coello (1692J.
The Capilla de San Pedro Mdrtir, the last chapel in the nave to the
left,- contains a good 16th cent, painting of the Martyrdom of St.
Ursula. — On the W. wall, above the core alto, is a large fresco by
j\ntonio Palomino , representing the triumph of the church (1705).
To the S. of the church is the Convento, by the entrance to which
are a bust and memorial of the learned Dominican Fray Diego de
Deza, the warm friend and supporter of Columbus. It was in a
room of this convent, named Salon de Profundis , that the great
discoverer in vain endeavoured to convince the Salamanca savants of
the practicability of his schemes (1486). — In theN.E. angle of the
picturesque cloisters is a tablet to the memory of the Dominican
Ftay Domingo de Soto, memorable for his share In the Council o
Trent. The adjoining staircase ascends to the —
470 Route 60, SALAMANCA. Mweum.
MusBUM (^Pl. 0, 5; openjon Tburs. , 11-1, and Sun., 10-1;
fee 50 c), containing an unimportant collection of antiqaities.
Among these are reliefs of St. Francis receiying the stigmata and
the Foundation of the Franciscan order (both by the entrance) ; an
ivory crucifix of the 17th cent, (last room) ; and an unfinished model
by Ghurriguera for the Gasa de Ayuntamiento (p. 465). There are
also several valueless paintings, and numerous engravings from the
magnificent 'Monumentos Arquitectonicos*.
The Galle de Don Francisco Hontelu, on the N. side of St. Stepben^s,
leads to the old Puerta de Santo Tomis, passing (right) the Colegio de la
Calatrata (PI. 0, D, 5), founded in 1562 but moderniEed in the 18th cent.,
and (left) the Romanesque church of Santo Tomdt Cantuarense (i.e, Thomas
a Beeket ^ PI. D, 5) , with a picturesque choir and a modernized interior.
Beyond the site of the gate the road goes on to the suppressed Honasterio
de Bemardas del Jesfis and the old CSonvento de la Vega (p. 469).
To the N.W. of St. Stephen's stands the Convento de Dominicas
de Santa Maria or Las Dutnas (PL C, 5), founded in 1419, v?rith a
fine plateresque doorway and a cloister (closed). — We now proceed
to the N.W., through theCalle de Juan de la Fuente, to the large —
Plaza de Gol6n (PI. G, 4), formerly named the Plazuela de la
Yerba. In the middle, surrounded by pleasure-grounds, is a Bronze
Statue of Christopher Columbus , erected in 1892; on the pedestal
are relief-busts of Isabella the Catholic and Diego de Deza. — In
the N.E. angle of the plaza rises the *Torr6 del ClaTero> built iu
1480 by Francisco de Sotomayor, 'Clavero' (key-bearer) of the
Alcantara Order (p. 450), and still in possession of his family. The
lower part of the tower is square, the upper octagonal ; it is sur-
rounded by eight turrets (^cubos; comp. p. 32) resting on corbels.
In the N.W. corner of the plaza, at the beginning of the Calle de
San Pablo (leading to the Plaza Mayor, p. 465), lies (left) the •Casa
de la Salina (PI. G, 4), built by the Fonseca family in 1616 and
now the Palacio de la DiputacUSn Provincial. The fine facade has
a portico on the groundfloor and medallions and lavishly decorated
windows on the first floor. On the N. and W. sides of the pictur-
esque patio are galleries supported by projecting corbels with curious
sculptured figures. The S. andE. walls are adorned with medallions.
The Gallb del Prioe (PI. C, B, 3 ; p. 466) leads to the W. from
the Plaza Mayor to the Plazuela de Monterey (PI. B, 3). Just to
the N. of it, at No. 6 Galle de Bordadores, stands the tasteful Casa
de las Muertes (PI. B, 3), dating from the beginning o^the 16th cent-
ury. In the middle of the plateresque facade is a medallion-bust of
its builder. Archbishop Alfonso de Fonseca (d. 1512). — A little to
the S.W., in the Plazuela de las Agustinas, rises the imposing Pa-
lacio de Monterey (PI. B, 3), built by the Count of Monterey in the
16th century. The massive solidity of its fortress-like architecture
is broken only by a few windows ; at the angles are two high towers.
— Nearly opposite stands the Convento de las Agustinas Beooletas
PI. B, 3), erected in 1598-1636. The church contains two pictures
Roman Bridge. ' SALAMANCA. 60, UouU, 471
by Bihtfa^ one of which, over the high-altar, is his celebrated
**Conception (1635), notable both for its brilliant colouring and
for the charming llgure of the Virgin , wrapped in a beautifully
painted mantle, gazing upwards with modest ecstasy, and surrounded
by joyous angels. The other Ribera, in the S. transept, represents
the Virgin and Child, with SS. Dominic and Antony of Padua.
To the W. of this point is the Plaza de San Francisco (PI A, B, 3),
with its pleasure-grounds, to the S.W. of which lies the old Colegio
de Santiago Apdstol or del Anobiapo (PI. A, 3), now the Colegio de
Nobles ■ Irlandeses J or seminary for Irish Catholics. Above the
plateresque doorway, by AUmao de Covarrubias, is a relief of St.
James conquering the Moors. To the right is. the entrance to the
church, which contains a rotable by Berruguete (1529). — The two-
storied PatiOj built by Pedro de Ibarra, is notable for the charming
capitals of its columns and its many admirable medallion-busts.
The Calle de Bordadores (see above) leads to the S.E. from the Pla-
zaela de Monterey to the Plazuela de San Benito, with the church of San
Benito (PI. B, 4), built in 1104 and rebuilt in the 16th century. It poss-
esses a fine plateresque doorway (S. side) and contains numerous monuments.
Behind the church are two private houses of the same period, the Oata
de los Suaret Bolis de Canada and the Casa de he Maldonados de Mbrillo,
— A few yards farther on, at the corner of the Calle Melendez, is the
former dwelling-house of Juan Mekndez Valdet (1764-1817), bearing a relief
bust of the poet.
The only objects of interest in the £. quarters of the city are the
churches of the Espiritu Santo (PI. D, 3) and San Mateo (PI. D, 2). The
former, dating from 1541, has a rich plateresque S. portal by Berrneuete
and a fine retablo \ the latter, in a Gothic style, was erected in 1894 et
seq. on the site of an old Romanesque building.
A Walk bounuthe Outbids of the City affords, in clear weather,
fine views of the distant mountains (see p. 464). Of the ancient
walls, erected in 1147, nothing remains but a few fragments on the
S. side. Outside the site of the old Puerta de Toro (PI. D, 2), a
little to the N.E. of San Mateo, is the pleasant new Alamedilla Park,
— To the S.E. of this point, beyond the Puerta de Santo Tomas
(p. 470), is the Monasterio de Bemardoi del Jesda (PI. D, 6), founded
in 1642; to the S. of this lies the Caaa de DemenXee (PI. D, 61
insane asylum. — A field-path runs hence to the S. to (3 min.J the
suppressed Corkverhio de la Vega (beyond PI. D, 6), founded in 1166
and now private property. Here are the ruins of the Gothic church
and some remains of the original cloisters, including five round arches
on coupled columns and six other arches supported by short and
massive clustered columns (fee 50 c). — To the S.W. of the city,
about 3 min. walk from the cathedral, the Tormes is crossed by a
well-preserved *Boman Bridge (PI. A, 6). The fifteen arches next
the city belong to the original structure ; the other twelve date from
the reign of Philip IV. (1677). The hill on the left bank commands
a fine view of the great churches of Salamanca.
Fsou Salamanca TO AviLA, 6011., railway under construction, opened
as far as (SdVzM., in IV4 hr.) PeSaraada de Bracamonte, an old town with
4aC0 inhabitants. Diligence thence to (00 M.) Avila, see p. 45.
472 BouU 60. CIUDAD RODBIGO.
Fbom Sax^maxca to P&A8BMCIA, lOQM., railway (two trains dail^) in
5Vs-9 hrs. (fares 22 p. 60 c, 16 p., 11 p. 25 c). — The line runs towards the
8., crossing the Torme* by a bridge 684 ft. in length. — 6 H. Lot ArapiU*
was the scene of the batUe of Salamanca (Jnly 22nd, 1812), in which the
British and Spanish forces under Wellington defeated tbe French under
Harmont. This important battle, in which over 40,(XX) men were engaged
on each side , was won in sbout '/i hr. It compelled the French to
evacoate Salamanca, and was the beginning of the end of the French cause
in Spain. -^ The train sliirts the IT.E. spurs Of the PAa de l^aneia and
at (15'/2 M.) AlbQ de Tornus re-enters the valley of the Tonnes. — Several
unimportant stations. — 641/2 M. Bijar (3166 ft.), an industrial town of
10,600 inhab., on the small river Cverpo de Hombre, contains some large
cloth-factories and the ancestral chateau of the Dukes of Bejar. It still
retains its ancient walls, now crumbling in decay. — The train crosses the
W. outliers of the Sierra de Bijar at (691/2 M.) Puerto de Bijar and then
descends to the S.W. to (63 H.) Bollos (de Bijar), a frequented watering
place on the Jmbrosy with alkaline sulphur-springs (110° Fahr.). It is
the first station in the province of Plaeenda, in Estremadura. — We now
descend along the Ambroz, passing several small stations. — 102 M.
PUumeia-JBmpalme, see p. A49.
FsoM Salaiunca to AsTonuA, 116 H., railway (two trains daily) in
8V2 hrs. (fares 26 p. 56, 17 p. 6, 12 p. 80 c). The chief intermediate station
is (41 H.) Zamora (Hotel Vieeaina; Potada de la Morera; Sail. Bettaurant),
an interesting old town (15,000 inhab.) situated on a rocky hill rising
above the Douro^ frequently mentioned in the chronicles of mediaeval war-
fare as a frontier-fortress against the Moors. The small Romanesque Cathe-
draly completed about 1174, with a square tower, and a handsome domed
cimborio over the crossing, is handsomely fitted up in the interior (pictures
by Oallegos -, interesting tombs). The churches of San Pedro if Jlde/onto^
La Magdalena, and Sta, Maria de Horta should also be noticed. The bridge
across the Douro affords a picturesque view. Don Quixote mentions Za-
mora as famous for its bagpipes. — 116 M . Agtorga^ see p. 479.
The Railway fbom Salamanca to Yillak Fokmoso crosses the
Tormet by an iron bridge, 1600 ft. long, and then turn? towards the
W. 62 M. Tejarts is known for its 'Romeria de la Virgen de la
Salud', celebrated on Trinity Sunday. — The line then follows the
old Ikighroad from Salamanca to Cindad Rodrigo, through an undu-
lating but unattractive district, skirting the N. foot-hills of the
PenadeFrancia, 66*72 M. Doninos; 67 M. Quegigal; liyzU.'Bdveda.
We now cross the YeUes (p. 587) and reach —
83 M. Fnente San Est^ban (Rail, Restaurant^ mediocre, D.
3V4pO» an insignificant village, but Important as the junction of
the railway to Barca d'Alva and Oporto (R. 66).
Our line runs towards the S.W., traversing forests of evergreen
oak. 86 M. Martin del Rio; 93 M. Sancti Espititus. — The train
now ascends in curves through the Montanas de Carazo^ the N.W.
spurs of the Pefia de Francia, and then descends into the valley of the
Agueda (p. 587). It crosses the river.
106 M. Ciudad Bodrigo, a small town with 2600 inhab., named
after Count Rodrigo Gonzalez Gir6n, the 'Repoblador'. It is one of
Spain's fortresses on the frontier of Portugal and played an impor-
tant part in the peninsular war. Marshal Ney besieged and took it
in 1810, but it was retaken by WeUington on Jan. 19th, 1812, after
'ege of 12 days. For this exploit Wellington was created Duke
SAHAGUN. 6i. BouU. 473
of Ciudad Rodrigo, Marquis of Torres Vedras (Portugal), and Earl
of Wellington. The Cathedralj begun towards the end of the 12th
cent, and marred hy additions in the 16th, is of considerable interest.
From Ciudad Rodrigo vi& Herguijuela to the Batveca* and Jtirde* and
.to Fkueneia, see p. 449.
We now traverse a pleasant hilly district. Ill M. Carpio; 118 M.
Espeja. At (125 M.) Fuentes de Onoro (2590 ft.), the last Spanish
station, an indecisive engagement between the French under Mass^na
and the English under Wellington took place in May, 1811.
I26V2M. Yillar Formoso (2560 ft. ; Rail, Restaurant), the Portu-
guese frontier-station, on the Torroes, an affluent of the Agueda.
Carriages are changed here, and passenger's luggage is examined by
the cuBtom-house officers.
Continuation of the railway to Pampilhosa, and thence to Lisbon^ see
RR. 56, 54.
51. From Falencia to Leon and Corunna.
340 M. Railway iFerroearrilet del Norte; one iren corrio daily) in 18 hra.
(fares 50 p. 35, 37 p. 75, 22 p. 65 c.); in summer a tren corrio (ist and
2nd class only) runs in 1672 hrs. and a tren mixto in 2OV2 hrs. — Trains
start from Palencia at the Etiadon del Norte. — Railway-restaurants at
Leon, Pon/errada^ and Monforte. — Passengers for Oviedo and Gijdn change
carriages in Leon.
Palencia, see p. 39. — The railway runs to the N.W. across
the Tierra de Campos. On the bare hills to the right are the ruins
of the fortresses of Castillo and Castillon (12th cent.). 31/2 ^^
Grijota; 7 M. Villaumhrales ; 9 M. Becerril.
13 M. Paredes de Nava, the birthplace of Alonso Berruguete
(p. liv); 171/2 M. Villalumbroso; 22 M. Cisneros, once the seat of the
distinguished family of that name; 29 M. Villada; 35 M. Orajal de
Campos, with a picturesque ruined castle of the 15th century.
38 M. Sahagiin, a town of 2700 inhab., was the Camala of the
Romans and is often mentioned in the chronicles of the middle
ages. The ruined Benedictine Abbey of Sahagun, visible from the
railway, was erected over the graves of SS. Facundus and Primitivus
and exercised the greatest influence on the history of the land dur-
ing the 10-16th centuries. In the following period, however, the
monastery suffered so much from internal quarrels, earthquakes,
and conflagrations, that nothing remained at the end of the 18th cent,
but a pile of ruins. The Capilla de San Mancio (12th cent.) con-
tains the fine tomb of Alfonso VI. The Romanesque churches ot San
Tirso, San Lorenzo, and San Pedro de las Duenas are interesting.
Farther on the train crosses viaducts and the Cea. To the right
are the picturesquely situated convent of Trianos and the distant
mountains of Palencia and Leon. 42^/2 M. Calzada ; 50 M. El
BurgO'Raneros; 60 M. Santas Martas. We enter the delta of the
Porma, Bemesga, and Esla, crossing the last-named river by a
bridge 330 yds. long. — 65 M. Palanquinos, a favourite summ'
resort of the Leonese; 71 M. Tomeros.
474 RouU51. LEON. Cathedral.
76 V2 M. Leon. The rail, station (restaurant) lies 3/^ M. to the
W. of ^e town ; hotel-omnibuses meet the trains.
Leon. — Hotels. IIotkl Ibbria, Calle OrdoSo Segando 1; HSt. de
Paris, Calle San Harcelo 8, an indifferent Spanish -hoasei pens, from 6 fr.
— Oafi*. 8uizo, Calle Ordono Segando 1 \ RuedOy Calle San Marcelo 8. —
Baths, Calle Ordono Segundo 19.
Post Offleo, Calle Cuatro Cantones 9. — Telegraph Office, Calle San
Harcelo 8.
Leon (26*25 ft.), the capital of the proYince of the same name and
the seat of a bishop, is a city of 13,000 inhab.) situated at the con-
fluence of the Torio and the Bemesga, in a plain abounding in trees
and meadows. The name is derived from the fact that the Sev-
enth Roman Legion (Oemina Pia Felix) occupied a fortified camp
here. In the 6th cent, the place was stormed, after a valiant resist-
ance, by Lecvigild and his Goths, and it remained in their possession
until 983, when it was wholly destroyed by the Arabs. Its period
of glory began with Alfonso V. , who invested it with many priv-
ileges ('buenos fueros'), ind was at Its height in the 11 -13th cen-
turies. After the union of the kingdoms of Castile and Leon the town
sank into obscurity, from which it momentarily emerged in 1521,
as one of the chief seats of the Comuneros (p. 63). Visitors who
now wander through its deserted, narrow, and irregular streets will
find the cathedral, the royal tombs, and the city-walls the only re-
minders that Leon was once the proud capital of a kingdom that
stretched from the Atlantic Ocean to the Rhone. — The climate is
very raw, and in winter the mercury often sinks to 10-15® Fahr.
below freezing-point or even lower.
The life and business of the town is focussed in the Plaza
Mat6b, or Plaza de la Conititucion ^ which Is surrounded with
arcades. This square was formerly used for fetes and processions,
and is now the scene of several markets, which afford (especially
on Sat.) a good opportunity to study the ways and costume of the
neighbouring peasantry. On the W. side stands the ConsittoriOy or
court-house, a handsome building flanked with towers (1677). —
The Calle Nueva leads hence to the N. to the Plazubla de la
Catedral, with the seminary, bishop's palace, and cathedral.
The "'Cathedral (Santa Maria de Regla), one of the grandest
examples of the Gothic style on Spanish soil, is smaller than the
cathedrals of Toledo, Burgos, and Seville, but excels them In del-
icacy of execution. It is closely allied with the cathedrals of
N. France, such as those of Rheims and Amiens (comp. p. xliii).
It occupies the site of the old Roman baths and of a palace of Or-
dofio II. (10th cent.), which was early transformed into a church.
The present building, of which the foundation-stone was laid by
Bishop Manrique de Lara in 1199, was actually begun in the early-
Qothic style about 1250 and was not finished till the close of the
llowing century. The chief master-builders seem to have been
Cathedral. LEON. 5L Route. 475
Pedro Cebrianf Enrique, OuUlen de Rohan, and Juan de Badajoz.
The building was repeatedly restored, but the discrepancies of style,
Tisihle mainly on the exterior, produce a by no means unpleasant
effect. The ground-plan is in the form of a Latin cross, with nave
and aisles, transept, a choir with double aisles, an ambulatory,
and radiating chapels. The total length is 298 ft., the breadth
131 ft., the height of the nave 98 ft. The building material is yel-
lowish limestone. The restoration, begun in 1860 and still in pro-
gress, has been partly carried on under the superintendence of Rios
y Serrano, the architect and art-historian.
Hr. Street, after empbasizing the fact that this cathedral must be
regarded as a French, rather than as a Spanish church, goes on to say :
*it is, indeed, in almost every respect worthy to be ranked among the
noblest churches of Europe. Its detail is rich and beautiful throughout,
its plan very excellent, the sculpture with which it is adorned quite
equal in quantity and character to that of any church of the age, and the
stained glass with which its windows are everywhere Ailed, perhaps some
of the most brilliant in Europe".
The Main or W, Facade is very imposing, with its three ornate
doorways, its arcade of colonnettes, its large rose-window (25 ft. in
diameter], and its turret- flanked gable. The effect has been much
enhanced by the removal of the additions of the Renaissance. In
the niche to the left of the main portal is a small column with the
escutcheon of Leon and Castile and the legend 4ocu8 appellationis^
marking the site on which justice was anciently administered. On
the pillar between the two openings of the main portal (PI. 16) is
a statue of Nuestra Sefiora la Blanca. The reliefs in the spaces
over the doors represent the reward of the just and the punishment
of the wicked. Above is Christ as the judge of all. Over the N. (left)
portal are represented the Visitation, the Nativity, the Adoration of
the Magi, the Flight into Egypt, and the Massacre of the Innocents.
Above the S. (right) portal (PI. 17) are the Death and Coronation of
the Virgin. The doors of the N. portal (PI. 16) are carved with
scenes from the Passion. The gable above the wheel-window is oc-
cupied by a relief of the Annunciation and a figure of the Saviour.
— The Towers flanking the facade are unequal in height and very
unlike in appearance. The older one to the N. (213 ft. high), with
round windows, looks somewhat heavy. The late-Gothic Torre del
Reloj to the S. (224 ft. high) dates from the 15th cent, and rises in
five stages, with buttresses and finials at the angles and an elegant
open-work spire. Above and below the cornice between the first
and second story is the inscription : 'Maria- Jesus XS-Deus homo';
higher up, 'Ave Maria- Gratia plena-dominus tecum'. The ascent of
this tower is fatiguing and not worth while.
The 8, Facade of the church is also very beautiful, with its airy
flying buttresses, its slender flnials, its magnificent windows, and
the tasteful balustrade on the top. The facade of the S. transept,
like the W. facade, has been re-erected and purged of its Renais-
sance disfigurements; it also has three richly decorated portalp
476 RouU5L LEON. CathtdnU.
(15th cent.), galleries of small columns, a row of windows, and tT^o
rose- windows. Above is a statue of St. FroiUn.
The richly articulated Choir is best surveyed from the Plazuela
de Paerta Obispo.
The iKTERioB, which is throughout in the style of the 14th cent.,
makes an effect of extraordinary grace and lightness, with its finely
articulated circular piers, its elegant triforinm gallery, and its 230
traceried windows, some of which are 40 ft. high. The height to
which it was carried seemed so reckless and hazardous in proper-
tion to the solidity of the supports, that some of the openings in
the aisles were built up, perhaps with exaggerated caution, soon
after the completion of the building. This masonry, however, has
now been removed — much to the advantage of the general effect.
The stained glass of the windows, dating from the 13-16th cent.,
has been nearly all taken out during the restoration. At present the
only old windows in place are those of the capilla mayor, the Capilla
de Santiago (p. 477), and the large rose-windows in the W. front
and N. transept, showing the Virgin and Saviour encircled by kings
and angels making music.
The Coro, in the middle of the nave, dates from the 15- 16th
cent., and contains the organs, the tribunes for the choristers, and
two rows of stalls (Silleria). The latter, carved in walnut, with finely
ornamented patterns and figures on the backs, and a most elaborate
open-work frieze, are a masterpiece by Fadriqtte, John of Malines,
and the Dutchman Copin. The two canopied stalls in the upper
row are destined for the bishop and for the king, as hereditary canon
of the cathedral. The reliefs near the entrance, in a more mature
Kenaissance style, are ascribed to Bodrigo Aleman, They represent
the genealogy of Christ, the Visitation, St George and the Dragon,
the Fall of the "Wicked Angels, the Liberation of souls from Purg-
atory, and Samson overcoming the lion. The Traicoro is of alabaster
and is executed in the plateresque style with rich gilding and paint-
ing; it has, however, been spoiled by an ugly door and other later
additions. The reliefs represent scenes from the New Testament,
the figures are Church Fathers and Apostles.
The Capilla Mayor is undergoing restoration and cannot be
seen to advantage. The screens enclosing it date from the 15-
16th centuries. — In the Ambulatory are two marble altars in the
Renaissance style, with the cinerary urns of 88. Alvito and Ptlayo,
Bishops of Leon. At the back of the capilla mayor is the elaborate
Monument of Ordono II. (d. 923), executed in the loth cent, and
adorned with the so-called ^estofado^ painting. In the middle lies
the effigy of the king, with a dog at his feet To the left and right
of the niche are a monk and a herald, directing attention to the in-
scription. A warrior is guarding the Leonese coat-of-arms, before
which flee a number of Moors. The rest of the monument is also
elaborately adorned with reliefs, shields, statuettes, and sculptured
_-^J
Cathedral, LEON. 5/. Route. 477
ornament. The difference of style between the upper and lower
parts seems to indicate- a later modification of the original plan. — -
Near Ordofio's tomb are old frescoes of the Entombment and the
Mocking of Christ, lately unskilfully restored. — To the left of the
tomb of St. Pelayo is the Portada del Cardo^ a door of the 16th
cent. , elaborately adorned with foliage and fruit, and Intended for
the admission of the acolytes to the high-altar. — The Sacristy and
the Oratorium contain copies, mostly worthless, of Italian paintings.
The Capilla del Carmen (PI. 8) was constructed by Bishop
Pedro de Vaca in the 15th cent.; to the right of its high-altar is the
tomb of Bishop Rodrigo (d. 1532), with an interesting relief of a
funeral procession. — In the Capilla del Salvador (PI. 5), to the
left, is the monument of Countess Sancha of Leon by Juan Lopez
(14th cent.); the reliefs are said to refer to the murder of the
countess by her covetous nephew, who was forthwith torn asunder
by horses. — The Capilla de la Concepcion (PI. 4), dating from
1230, contains (left) the tomb of Bishop Manrique (p. 474). — In
the Capilla de la Asuncion (PI. 3) is the monument of Bishop
Arnaldo (d. 1235), one of the bitterest persecutors of the Albigenses.
— The Capilla de Nuestra Senora del Dado (PI. 1) was founded by
Bishop Manrique. Over the altar is the painted figure of *Oiir
Lady of the Die' (dado), a fine and characteristic work of the Gothic
period. Its name is explained by the story that a gambler, having
unsuccessfully called on the aid of the Virgin , threw one of his
dice at the figure, which forthwith began to bleed. — The stained
glass windows of the Capilla de Santiago^ which was erected in
the middle of the 16th cent, by Juan de Badajoz in a late-Gothic
plateresque style, are among the best-preserved in the cathedral.
Fine, too, are the richly carved and whimsical friezes and the gro-
tesque supports of the pillars (Queen of Sheba, Samson with the
lion, Monkreading, satirically inscribed 4egerenonintelllgere\ etc.):
To the right and left of the altar, and on the altar itself, are four sil-
ver caskets, containing the remains of SS. Alvito, Pelayo, Froilan,
and Antolin, and a silver custodia (16th cent.), with portraits of
St. Froilan and various Apostles and Church Fathers.
The *Cloistees, which are 98 ft. square, show, in consequence
of later restorations, a curious mixture of Gothic and Henaissance
forms and rank among the most beautiful in Spain. The mural
paintings, executed by Maestre Nicolas and Lorcnxo in 1464-70
(comp. p. Ixvi), are now very dilapidated. Those in best preserva-
tion are Christ with the Scribes and Pharisees (N.W.), Scourging
of Christ (N.W.), and the Last Supper (N.). -— On the N. side of
the cloisters is the Chapel qf Count Rebolledo (PI. 13), with the
monument of this nobleman (d. 1636), who was a Spanish general
and ambassador at the court of Denmark. The adjoining Staircase^
leading to the chapter-house, erected by Bishop Pedro Manuel^ is one
of the most important creations of the plateresque style.
478 Route 61. LEON. San IMoro.
The most interesting MS. in the Chapter Library is the palimpsest of
the Lex Bomana Visigothorom, discovered by Dr. B. Beer in 1888 (No. 16).
Others of importance are Kos. 8, 9, 16, 26^ 27, and 36.
On leaving the cathedral, we proceed to the W., passing the
Neptune Fountain and following the Galles de la Catedrai and San
Marcelo, to the Pla-Zttsla db San Maboblo. This square is ad-
joined by the Theatre^ the Hoipitalj the Town Hall, and other
interesting buildings. The Ayuntamiento (town-hall), ^ith Doric-
Ionic facades to the N. and £., was built by Juan Ribera in 1585.
Adjacent is the church of San Marcelo y dating from 1096 but dis-
figured by later restorations. Opposite (N. side of the plaza) is the
Ca$a de las Ouzmanetj resembling an Italian palace and built in
1560 by Bishop Juan Quifiones y Guzman, an ancestor of the
ex-Empress Eugenie. It is now the seat of the provincial diet. • —
The Calle del Cid, just beyond this building, leads to the —
*Colegiata de San Isidoro, an early-Romanesque edifice, re-
sembling in many respects the cathedral of Santiago. It was founded
by Ferdinand I. of Castile in 1005, for the reception of the remains
of St. Isidore and other martyrs, as well as for a royal mausoleum.
It was altered or rebuilt by Master Pedfo Vitamhen and not con-
secrated until 1149, whUe even then its decorations were probably
still incomplete. The main facade, which is strengthened by mas-
sive buttresses, is adorned with quaint old reliefs (p. xlv). Above
the right portal (now walled up) are the Descent from the Cross
and Deposition in the Tomb, with SS. Paul (r.) and Peter (1.). In
the tympanum of the left portal is the Sacrifice of Abraham, under
a zodiacal frieze. The upper stage, with the arms of Castile and an
equestrian statue of St. Isidore, dates from the 16th century.
Intbbiob. The nave, 26ft. in width, is roofed with barrel
vaulting, the aisles with quadripartite vaulting. To the left of the
entrance is the simple stone sarcophagus of the architect Yitamben,
near which is a Romanesque font. The cusped and stilted arches
of the spacious transept, which is also roofed with a barrel-vault,
betoken Moorish Influence. The capilla mayor, which is enclosed
by a handsome reja and roofed with star-vaulting, was built in the
late-Gothic style in 1513 to take the place of two earlier apsidal
chapels. It is one of the few in Spain in which the Host is on con-
stant exhibition (*de maniflesto'). On the high-altar is a silver
shrine with the bones of St. Isidore. To the right and left are small
semicircular apses, forming the E. terminations of the aisles. —
The left aisle is adjoined by the Cloisters, with the old refectory.
— At the W. end of the nave is the Royal Pantheon, the tombs
in which were destroyed by the French in 1808. The Capilla de
Santa Catalina, or larger of the two chambers of which the Pantheon
consists, is a rectangular structure of the 16th cent., with early-
Romanesque paintings. It is roofed with six quadripartite vaults,
borne by two columns. Those of the stone coffins that are still ex-
tant are preserved here and in the adjoining room.
San Marcos. LEON. 51. Route. 479
The CoNVBNT Staibcase, a richly decorated work of the Renaissance,
should not he overlooked^ — The Library, formerly in possession of a
valuahle collection of MSS., has been able to recover but few of its trea-
sures since the French occupation. The best now here is a Bible of 960,
adorned with exquisite miniatures by the Presbyter Sancho. The library
also contains a suit of armour that was worn by Alfonso VII. — In the
Muniment Room is an agate chalice of the 11th cent., richly adorned with
precious stones.
The Callb de Rbnueva leads from San Isidoro towards the N.W,
to the Convent of San Marcos, situated on the left bank of the
Bemesga. The original building on this site was a hospital for
the pilgrims to Compostela. The new building, planned for by
Ferdinand the Catholic, but not begun till the reign of Charles V.,
was substantially the work of OuilUrmoDoncel.^ Orozco, and Juan
de Badajoz. The main facade, turned towards the S., and now in a
sad state of dilapidation, ranks among the finest examples of the
plateresque style, not only in the monumental nobility of its plan,
but also In the wealth and charming execution of its decoration.
The graceful festoons and delicate friezes are obviously suggested
by Raphael's logge ; the medallions on the plinth and the superb
main portal are also noteworthy. The interior of the convent-church,
which has never been finished, also produces a most agreeable im-
pression, with its aisleless nave, spacious transept, and lofty vault-
ing. The beautiful choir - stalls , dating from 1641, were freely
restored in 1721. The Sala Capitular (with a richly carved ceiling
of the 16th cent), the sacristy, and the cloisters are hardly less
interesting. The lower stage of the last now contains the Museo
Provincial. — At the back of the choir is the cell in which the poet
Francisco Quevedo was confined for 3^2 years by Philip IV. The
walls, on which the captive pencilled the bitterest satires against
his age and his contemporaries, have been covered with whitewash.
On the W., N., and E. the town is girdled by imposing Walls
(Murallajy strengthened with towers and dating in their lower part
from the Roman period. They can be most conveniently visited at
the section which runs to the N. from the E. side of the cathedral,
along the Calle de los Cubes, to the Puerta del Castillo,
Those who have time may visit the church of Santa Maria del
Mercndoj which lies to the N.W., in the Calle de Herreros. In the
same quarter are the promenades of La Ronda or Papalaguinda
and CalvariOj stretching along the Bernesga (band on Sun. evenings).
Fboh Lbon to Corunna. — 82 ^2^' Quintana ; 89 M. Villadangos.
We cross the Orbigo by a bridge 115 yds. long. — 98 M. Veguellina.
To the right Is the twenty-arched bridge where Suero de Quinones
and his nine companions-in-arms performed the so-called *Paso
Honroso', challenging during a period of ten days (July, 1434) all
the knights on their way to the great jubilee at Santiago.
109 M. A8torga(2815 ft.j Fonda de Fausiino Fernandez, Fonda
de Pachas, both very Indifferent, pens. 5-6 fr.j carriages at the
480 Route 5/. ASTORGA, From Leon
station), the see of a bighop, witii 5000 iiihab., is picturesquely
situated on a spur of the Manzanal chain and is surrounded by
strong walls and towers, still in part well preserved. The Roman
A8turica Augusta, described by Pliny as an 'urbs magniflca*, lay at
the junction of four military roads. It was destroyed both by the
Goths and the Arabs, but enjoyed another short spell of power and
prosperity under Ordofio I. (9th cent.). Its heroic resistance to the
French in IK 10 forms a worthy parallel to the defences of Saragossa
and Gerona. — Astorga Is the junction of the railway to Flasencia
via Zamora and Salamanca (p. 472).
The Cathedral dates from the 15-l6th centuries. The main
facade, in the Renaissance style, has three portals adorned with
plateresque columns and pilasters, reliefs from the life of Christ,
and a graceful parapet. The rose- window is in the baroque style.
The towers, one of which is unfinished, date from the 18th cent. ;
the portal in the S. facade is of the 17th century. The interior
is very effective. The beautiful groining* ribs and the slender
and finely outlined pillars demand attention. The retablo mayor was
executed by Gaspar Beeerra in 1569 (comp. p. Ivili) ; the screens are
the work of Lazaro Awam (1622), and the choir-stalls and pulpit
are by the Masters Tomas and Roberto (1551). The windows are
tilled with good stained glass. In the sacristy (18th cent.) are shown
a Romanesque reliquary and an admirably executed Gothic chalice.
— The cloisters were rebuilt by Oaspar Lopez in 1780.
The Ayuntamiento (town-hall), in the Plaza Mayor (P. de la
Oonstitucion), is an edifice of the early 17th cent, with a tasteful
Renaissance facade flanked by towers. — The Priests' Seminary^ to
the S.W., can accommodate 750 pupils. — Fine views of the Man-
zanal chain and of the suburbs of Santa Coloma and San Andris are
obtained from the road laid out on th^e ramparts and from El Jardin^
a promenade stretching towards the S.W. (band on Sun. evenings).
The hills round Astorga are the home of the tribe of Maragatot, a
remnant of the original Celtiberian inhabitants of Spain, who hold
themselves strictly aloof from their neighbours and marry only among
themselves. As a rule they are very industrious and thrifty, their chief
occupation being that of carriers and muleteers. The men wear a long-
skirted coat, voluminous knee-breeches, and round hats of felt-, the
women wear a short skirt and slashed sleeves.
116 M. Vega-Magaz; 126 M. Braiiuelas. The train now reaches
the watershed between the Douro and Minho and penetrates the
crest of the Manzanal Mts,^ at a height of 3300 ft., by a tunnel
164:0 ft. long. The descent on the other side (la bajada del Manzanal)
is full of variety. The train bends to the S.W. and N. in three
curves and threads 11 tunnels before reaching (133 M.) Xa Oranja^
which remains to the right. It then runs towards the S., surmount-
ing the watershed between the Tremor and the Silva by means of
two tunnels. The railway next turns to the N.E. and again pene-
trates this ridge by a tunnel 1140 yds. long, passing under the part
to Corunna. PONFERRADA. 51. Route. 481
of the track just traversed 310 ft. above. Finally it runs towards
the W., once more passing La Granja, which this time lies to the
left. Eight more tunnels, besides huge cuttings and bridges, are
passed before we reach (139 M.) Torre, which lies about 1440 ft.
lower than the tunnel of Branuelas.
144 M. Bembibre, with the ruined chateau of the Dukes of Frias
and the church of San Pedro, formed of a 15th cent, synagogue.
Beyond (160 M.) San Miguel de las Duenas we thread six tunnels
and cross the Sil.
156 M. Fonferraila (164(Tft. ; Fonda de las Astorganas, pens.
5-6 p. ; Bail. Bestaurant), the Interamnium Flavium of the Romans,
is a town of 7000 inhab., situated on a lofty plateau and command-
ing a fine yiew of the district encircled by the Sil and the Boeza.
The Gothic church of Santa Maria de la Encina contains a good ro-
table of the 16th cent, and a figure of the Magdalen by Gregorio Her-
nandez (p. lix). The Ayuntamiento, with its slender towers, dates
from the 17th century. Above the town are the imposing remains
of a castle of the Knights Templar (12th cent.).
The train now descends into the valley of the Sil, in which
washing for gold is successfully practised. 165 M. Toral de los Vados
18 the junction of a branch-line to Villafranca del Vierzo. We then
cross the Burbia, thread a dozen tunnels, and traverse romantic
rocky gorges. — 176 M. Quereno, the first place in Galicia; 181 M.
Sobradelo; 185 M. El Barco de ValdeorraSj celebrated for its wine
and chestnuts. The district is hilly and picturesque. 192 M. La
Bua-Petin. Near (198 M.) Montefurado (1233 ft.) the Sil flows
through a subterranean canal, 440 yds. long, said to have been
constructed by the Romans. Farther on the train crosses the Sil
twice. Beyond (207 M.) San Clodio it penetrates the ridge of Lemos,
at a height of 1475 ft. above the sea , and then descends to the N.
218 M. Puehla de Brolldn.
224 M. Monforte de Lemos (1260 ft. ; Fonda y CafS Espanol, un-
pretending, pens. 5-6 fr. ; Bail. Bestaurant), a town with 4500 inhab.,
lies on the small river Cahe, on a hill crowned with a ruined castle of
the Lords of Lemos. The Benedictine monastery, once of considerable
importance, is now a hospital. The church of the Jesuit college con-
tains a noteworthy retablo by Francisco Monro (18th cent.). — Mon-
forte is the junction of the railway to Vigo and Pontevedra (p. 491).
Our line crosses the Cabe and runs through magnificent forests
of oak and chestnut. Beyond (232 M.) Bdveda we thread several
tunnels and cross the viaduct of Linares. 234 M. Bubian. We next
cross the watershed (2165 ft.) between the Cabe. and the Sarria.
240 M. Oural, with chalybeate-arsenical springs. The railway here
traverses the plain of (246 M.) Sarria, the Roman Flavia Lamiris.
255 M. Puebla de San JuUdn. Beyond (262 M.) Lajosa we cross a
viaduct commanding an extensive view.
268 M. Lugo (1512 ft.; H6t. Mendez Nunez, pens. 6-7 p., carr
Baedeker's Spain. 31
482 Route 61. LUGO.
to meet the trains; CafS Espanot), the capital of (ralicia and the
see of a bishop, is a town of 12,000 Inhab., situated on the left
bank of the Miriko or Mfno, in a populous plain. It is the Luctts
Augusti of the Romans, and the city-walls, 1 ^4 M. long and 30-35 ft.
high, incorporate much Roman masonry. The town was taken
successiyely by the Saeyi, Moors, Normans, and Alfonso HI. ; in
1809 It was sacked by the French, and in 1835 by the Oarlists.
The Cathedral passes for one of the more Important monnments
of the 12th cent., but contains so many additions of a later date
that the impression of a Romanesque \)uilding is almost wholly lost.
The main facade and the towers are of the 18th century. The
Romanesque N. portal, which is sheltered by a Gothic porch
(15th cent.), is adorned with a relief of the Saviour and has iron-
mounted doors of the 12th century. The aisles belong to the
12th cent, but the high and airy naye, with its fine triforium and
pointed arches, dates from the 15-16th centuries. The richly carved
stalls are by Francisco Monro (1624); the rococo retablo of the
capilla mayor was executed by the French engineer Lemaur. Like
San Isidore at Leon, this church enjoys the privilege of having the
Host perpetually *de maniflesto\ The sacristy contains an Italian
relief in alabaster (16th cent.), and in the Capilla de San Froil/in is
the font, formed of an ancient capital. The cloisters date from 1714.
The convent-church of Santo Domingo (14th cent.) has a Ro-
manesque portal and contains the tomb of the knight Yalcarcel
(chapel to the right of the apse"). — The neighbouring conventual
church of San Francisco possesses some tombs of the 15th century.
A visit should be paid to the Plaza de la Constitucion, with the
Paseo del Cantdn, the market, and the Casa Coruistorial (1736). A
perambulation of the town-walls (approaches at the Puerta de la
Estacion and opposite the cathedral) affords good views of Lugo
itself and its environs. — The Sulphur Springs near the rail, station
were known to the Romans.
Beyond Lugo the railway skirts the Minho, traversing a pic-
turesque country. We cross the Minho, and then, beyond (277 M.)
Rdhade, the Caldo and the Ladra. 285 M. Santiago de Baamonde;
290 M. Parga, At (294 M.) Ouitirix we reach the province of Coruna.
303 M. Teijeiro; 309 M. Curtis; 321 M, San Pedro de Oza. —
3251/2 M. Betnnzos^ pleasantly situated on the Mandeo and the
MendOj has two bridges and a ruined castle of the Moorish period.
Its name is, perhaps, an echo of the Celtic and Roman Flavium
Brigantium. — 333 M. Carribre: 336 V2 M. El Burgo Santiago.
340 M. COTUnna. — The Railway Station lies at the extreme S. end
of the town. The omnibus runs only to the office of the Etperanza^
Buanueva 3. The hotel porters take charge of the lugerage.
Hotels. Fonda Ferrocarrilana, at the corner of the Calle Beal and
the Ruamieva; ff6t de Frmeey Ruanueva 27, pens. T'/s-lO p.
Gaf^s. Suizo, Mendee NiMeg^ both in the Calle Real.
Steamers ply from Oorunna to Gijon^ Santander. and Bilbao ; also to
Vigo and Lisbon (Pacific Steam Navigation Co.).
GORUNNA. 57. Route. 483
Diligence to Santiago (40 H.). That known as La Ftrrocarrikma^
starting at Buanaeva 3. may be recommended (two vehicles daily, in
7 1/2 hrs. \ fares 12 p. 50 c, 10 p., 7 p. 60 c). Places should be secured
in advance.
Post & Telegraph Office, Calle de la Fama.
Sea Bathing at Biator^ on the Bay of Orzan, and Bl Parroie^ at La
Bahia (V2-I p> ; dress and towels not supplied).
Phytieiant. Ramon Perez Co*iales, Calle Teresa Herrera ; Jo$4 Rodri-
guez Martinez^ Calle San Andres 76. — Dentist. WiWam MitcMly Blego
de Aenia 9. — Apothecary. /. Villar, Calle Beal 82.
Consult. Great Britain, C. A. P. Talbot^ Calle Linares Bivas 2; vice-
consul, R. de Urioite. — United States, Julio Harmony; vice-consul, Rai-
mundo Molinti. — Lloyd's Agent, /. MareheH^ Heal 94.
Booksellers. La Literaria^ Carri^ Calle Real 98 and 30. — Photographs.
Ferrer^ Calle Real 61.
Convrmay Span. La Corufia, still known to British sailors as The
Groyne (La Cruna), the capital of the province of that name and
the seat of the governor and the captain-general of Gallcla, is a
city of 37,000 inhab., finely situated on a tongue of land between
the bays of El Orzan (W.) and La Bahia (E.). It is the chief mili-
tary station In N. Spain and a commercial city of the first rank,
exporting onions, potatoes, beans (mainly to the Antilles), fiult,
wine, hams, and many other articles. The entrances to La Bahia and
the harbonr are protected by Fort San Antonio.
The town is supposed to be of Phoenician origin and was the Portus
Moffnue Artabrorum of the Romans. In the middle ages it was known as
Caroniumy and long belonged to the emirate of Cdrdova. John of Gaunt
landed at Corunna in 1386 to claim the throne of Castile in right of
his daughter, wife of Pedro the Crwel. Philip II. embarked here in 1564
for England to marry Queen Mary ; and it was from Corunna that the
invincible Armada', consisting of 130 large war-ships with an army of
30,000 men, sailed in 1588 to conquer Great Britain. In 1698 a British
fleet under Drake appeared before the town and burned it down. At a
later date the British won two important naval victories off Corunna:
that of June 14th, 1747, in which the French fleet was defeated, and that
of July 22nd, 1F05, when the French and Spanish fleet was destroyed.
On Jan. 16th, 1809, a sanguinary contest took place on the neighbouring
heights of Elyina, when Marshal Soult, at the head of much superior
forces, vainly endeavoured to prevent the embarkation of the British
army under Sir John Moore, who was killed during the battle. Corunna
was taken by the French in 1823 and by the Garlists in 1836.
A characteristic feature of Corunna is the Miradoree^ or glazed and
gaily-painted window-balconies.
Like most of the larger towns on the N. coast of Spain, Corunna
consists of an Old Town on the heights and a Nbw Town below.
The latter, named La PeseaderiOf is nearest the rail, station and
extends from La Bahia to El Orzan. Most of Its handsome streets
are paved with granite. Along the harbour runs the animated
Avenida de I08 Cantones, with the Alameda^ a statue of Daniel
CarbaUo, the politician, by Farlno (erected In 1896), and the pretty
grounds of the Paseo de Mendet Nunez. At the S. end of the har-
bour is the large tobacco-factory of La Palloza. — The Calle Real
and Calle Riego, adjoining the Paseo on the N.E., lead past the
theatre to the Plaza de Maria Pita and the old town.
The Old Town, which Is closely built and In part enclosed \
21*
484 Route 51. FERROL.
an old line of walls, lies on a height to the N.E. of the harbour. Its
focus is the Plaza de la ConstitiLcion or de Atcdrragaj which is beau-
tified with ornamental grounds. Here stand the Capitania General
and the churches of Santa Maria and Santiago (12- 13th cent.), both
with interesting Romanesque portals. To the E. lies the Jardin de
San Carlos, with the last resting-place of Sir John Moore; the
monument, erected in 1814, bears the simple inscription: 'Johannes
Moore, Exercitus Britannici Dux, Praelio occisus A. D. 1809*. On
the N. wall of the garden is a memorial tablet to the 172 officers
and seamen of the British man-of-war 'Serpent', which was lost at
Cape Villano in Not., 1890.
In the old town, a little to the N. of the Plaza de Maria Pita,
is the Cuartel de Alfonso Doce^ or barracks. The Calle Orilla-
Mar leads hence to the N.W. to the Roman Catholic and English
Cemeteries and on past the (left) Parque de San Amaro (magazine
of ammunition), to (1 M. farther) the Torre de Hercules, which
rises on a hill (390 ft.) to the W. This tower, said to have been
built in the time of Emp. Hadrian, has been used as a lighthouse
since 1792 and commands a free view.
A steamer plies daily from Curunna (IV4 br.; fares 3, IV2 p.) to
(12 m.) the naval port oi "EvnolC Fonda Suiza; Brit, vice-consul^. ^fWon;
U.S. vice-consul, If. Perez). Tbis charmingly situated town (23,000 ii^bab.}
is strongly fortified and protected by advanced forts. The arsenal, laid
out by Charles III., with its wharves and docks, has an area of 25 acres.
52. From Leon to Oviedo and Oijon.
107 M. Eailwat (Ferroearrile* del Norte; one irea corr^o or passenger
train daily) in 7 hrs. (fares 17 p. 70, 13 p. 30 c, 8 p.). In summer the
tren corr^o runs in 6V4 brs-, and there is also a fren mixto in 8 hrs.
(through-carriages). — The trains start, both at Leon and at Gijon, from
the Ettadon del Norte. Railway-restaurant at Leon.
Leon, see p. 474. — The railway follows the well-tilled valley
of the Bemesga. l^j^ M. SaniihciLnez, The Astarian mountains are
descried in the distance. At PueiAe de Alba we cross the river. To
the right is the pilgrimage-chapel of the Buen Suceso. 16 M. La
Rohla, situated amid coal-pits, is the junction of a branch-line to
Bilbao (p. 21) via Mataporquera. — 21 M. Pola de Oord6n. The
railway, the road, and the river enter side by side a narrow rocky
gorge, with numerous bridges and tunnels. 26 M. Cinerai 28 V2M.
VUlamanin. Beyond (331/2 M.) Busdongo is the Perruca Tunnel
(2 M. long J 4215 ft. above the sea), which penetrates the main chain
of the Cantabrian Mts. As we emerge from it we enjoy a fine view
of the nlountains to the left. The direct distance between Bus-
dongo and Puente de los Fierros (p. 485) is only 7 M., but it
takes 26 M. uf railway to overcome the difference of 2515 ft. in their
elevations. The train descends rapidly through 58 spiral and other
tunnels, over numerous bridges and embankments, through deep cut-
tings, and round sharp curves. Beautiful views. At (39 1/2 M.) Pa-
OVIEDO. 52. Route. 485
jares we reach the province of Oviedo. 45^2 M. Navldiello; 62 M.
Linares; 65 M. Malvedo.
59 V2 M. Puente de loaFierros (1700 ft.), at the confluence of the
Pajares and the Parana; 62 M. Campomanes. 67 1/2 M* ■Po^'' ^* Lena,
in a wide and attractiye valley, was the birthplace of Gonzalo Bayon,
conqueror of Florida (1565). 72 M. Vjo; 723/4 M. Santullano; 76M.
MiereSy the centre of a district rich in iron, coal, sulphur, and
cinnabar; 77 M. Ablana. We croBS the Caudal. 79 M. OUoniego.
We thread several tunnels and cross the green valleys of Bareo Soto
and NaUSn. — 81 1/2 M. Soto de Rey^ the junction of a branch-line
running to the E. to Tudela-Veguin B.nd Ciano-Santa-Ana. — Beyond
(83 M.) Las Segadas we pass through two more tunnels and under
the arches of the aqueduct of Fitoria (p. 488).
87 M. Oviedo. — BaUway Stations. 1. Estaeidn del Norte, to the K.
of the town, at the end of the Calle Urfa, for the lines to Madrid, <J^ijon,
Truhia, and San Juan de Nieva. — 2. E»taci6n de lot Ferrocarriles JSeono-
micos de Asturias, close to the Estaci(>n del Norte, for the trains to In-
fiesto. — No cabs or omnibuses meet the trains, but there is a tramway
juat outside the station. Luggage is handed over to the hotel -porters.
Hotels. H6tel Trannoy (Swiss landlord), Calle Altamirano 8-10,
pens, fr m l^jz p. ; Hdt. de Pari*^ Calle Pelayo 12 and Calle TJria 14, pens,
from 7 V2 p. — Kostauranta at the hotels. — Cafes. G. Eepafidl , Calle
Cimadevilla^ C. de Parity Calle Fruela. — Beer at the Eetrella^ Calle Uria,
by the Estacidn del Norte.
Tramway from the Estaddn del Norie, through the Calles Urfa, Fruela,
and Jesus, to the Plaza Mayor, with branch from the Calle TJrfa to the
Campo de la Lana. Fare 10 c.
Bookseller: J. Mart'nez, Plazuela de Riego. — Photographs: Bazar
IngUe, Calle Bua.
Post & Telegraph Office, Calle Milicias.
Oviedo (740 ft.), the capital of a province of its own name and
the see of a bishop, is a city of 21,000 inhah., situated on a hill
slope rising from the Nora and enclosed by fertile plain and pictur-
esque mountains. Its nucleus was a monastery founded in the
8th cent, by Fruela, and in 791 Alfonso the Chaste made it the
capital of the struggling kingdom of Asturias. The Normans failed
in their attempts to capture it, and the Arabs, who invaded Asturias
under Almanzor, were equally unsuccessful. The town lost its
importance as the victorious Eeconqulstadores pushed their way
farther to the S. Marshall Ney occupied Oviedo in May, 1809, and
allowed his troops to plunder it for three days. — It was at Oviedo
that Le Sage's hero, Gil Bias, spent his boyhood.
The •Cathedral, tbe chief lion of the town, stands in the
Plazuela de la Catedral, in the ancient quarter of Monte Santo.
This was the site of the church erected by Fruela I. in the 8th cent.,
which Alfonso II. rebuilt in 830 and surrounded with protecting
walls. The foundation-stone of the present Gothic structure was
laid in 1388 by Bishop Gutierrez de Toledo. The church was conse-
crated by Bishop Mendoza in 1528, but the decoration of the build-
ing was not completed till the end of the 17th century.
The cathedral consists of nave and aisles, transepts, and
486 RouU62. OYIEDO. From Lton
semicircular apse with an ambulatory. It is 220 ft long and 72 f c.
wide ; the naye is 66 ft. high, the aisles 33 ft The building material
ie mainly limestone (piedra ealista). The main facade has three
graceful Gothic doorways, protected by a porch. The relief of the
Transflgnration above tiie central entrance is of later date. To the
right and left are busts of Fruela I. and Alfonso II. The wood^
carvings of the doors are modem works by Francisco Meana; the
best are those of the middle door, with medallions of the Saviour
and of St Eulalia, the tutelar of the cathedral. The screen dates
from 1846. — Two towers were designed, but one only (that to the
S.) has been finished (1539). This is 270 ft in height and is a
marvel of boldness and grace. The lower three stages and the
elegant open-work spire are in a pure Gothic style, but the fourth
stage shows traces of Renaissance influence botii in structure and
ornamentation. The entrance to the tower is at the W. end of the
right aisle ; an ascent is recommended, as the top affords a beautiful
panorama of the environs of Oviedo. The oldest bell in the tower
(^Wamba') dates from 1219 and hung originally in a tower erected
by Alfonso VI. over the Gamara Santa (p. 487), the ruins of which
are visible from the Galle de la Gorrada del Obispo (S. side).
The Intbriob, with its slender clustered pillars, its lofty vault-
ing, its open-work triforium, and the tracery and stained glass of
its windows, makes a noble and harmonious impression, which,
however, is not a little marred by the reddish-yellow wash with
which the stone-work has been covered in modern times. — The
Coro, in the nave, contains elaborately carved *StalIs of the
16th cent., in which scenes from the Old Testament are mingled
with the most grotesque and secular representations. The somewhat
heavy reja is of the 16th cent. ; the organs, in the Churrigueresque
style (p. li), date from the 18th century. The Trascoro is executed
in a mixture of the Gothic and plateresque styles. The Retablo de
la Virgen dt la Luz (1620) is richly adorned with marble statuettes,
arabesques, and canopies. The side-niches, with the statues of
Apostles, are modem. — The smaller chapels were decorated in the
17-18th cent, in the most unbridled baroque style. The CapiUa de
Santa EiUalia, in the left aisle, contains a silver-gilt shrine of the
11th cent, with the ashes of the saint. — A modern bronze railing
extends from the W. end of the nave to the capilla mayor. The
four piers at the crossing are more massive and more elaborate
than the others. To the right of the capilla mayor is a figure of
Christ, disfigured by modern painting and placed on a small pedestal
adorned with shells; this is probably a work of the 12th cent.,
belonging to an old sanctuary. — The Capilla MayoVy occupying
the pentagonal apse and flanked by the semicircular ambulatory,
has fine traceried windows filled with stained glass. The *Retablo,
in five sections, is a notable work by Qiraltay Balmaseda, Picardo,
and other artists of the 15-16th cent., unskilfully restored in 1879.
to Qijon. OVIEDO. 52. Route, 487
It includes scenes from the life of Chiist, numerous figures of
saints, and elaborate ornamental carving. The white marble taber-
nacle in the Gothic style, consisting of three sections and contain-
ing bronze-gilt figures of Christ and the Apostles, was executed in
1869 from the design of Juan Madrazo. To the left is the tomb of
Archbp. Arias de VUkir, with a kneeling portrait-figure in an elegant
Gothic niche (1490).
From the N. transept an ornate Gothic portal leads to the CapUla
del Bey Casto^ which was erected in 1712 in the most extravagant
baroque style, to take the place of the Lady Chapel destined by
Alfonso II. for the reception of the royal tombs. The ^Panteon de
los Reyes', on the N. side of this chapel, now possesses but one of
the ancient sarcophagi, that of the Infante (?) Itaoius, supposed to
date from the 8th century. A modem inscription enumerates the
rulers whose ashes are said to be deposited in the urns in the
recesses in the wall.
From the S. transept a flight of steps ascends to a Gothic vesti-
bule with a modern altar, whence a beautifully ornamented Gothic
doorway leads to ih.e*Camara Santa^ which consists of two chambers
(adm. only at 8.30 a. m. and 8 p. m.). The smaller room which
contains the relics is entirely without ornament, lighted only by one
small window, and roofed with low barrel-vaulting. It originally
formed part of the Capilla de San Miguel, which Alfonso U. erected
alongside the oldest church. The larger room, in the Romanesque
style, also with barrel- vaulting and one narrow window, was added
by Alfonso VI. in the 11th century. The arch, the frieze, and the
capitals are adorned with carefully executed scenes from the life
of Christ and combats of men and animals. The place of Caryatides
is taken by statues of Apostles, arranged in pairs on fantastic pedes-
tals. The handsome tesselated flooring is of a kind much used in
Spain before the 14th century. On the walls are modern portraits
of Kings Belayo, Fruela I., Alfonso II., and Alfonso IV.
The Rblics and Tbkasubbs of the Camara Santa luckily escaped
the ravages of the French in 1809. Most of the relics now exposed were
probably taken from the celebrated Arca^ a Byzantine chest of cedar of
the 11th cent., covered with thin silver-plating with low-reliefs of scenes
from the lives of Christ, the Virgin, and the Apostles. Round the bor-
der runs an inscription in Latin and Cufic characters. The relics include
a piece of the staff of Moses , a fragment of the True Cross, one of the
silver pieces for which Judas betrayed his Lord, Mary Magdalen's hair,
a sandal and leathern wallet of St. Peter, a fragment of the tomb of
Lazarus, and some crumbs left over from the Feeding of the Five
Thousand. Among the treasures of more intrinsic value are the Cruz de
lot Angeles (8th cent.), the gift of Alfonso II., and the Cruz de la Victoria^
originally belonging to Pelayo and ornamented with gold and precious "
stones by Alfonso III. — The relics are shown by a chorister in presence
'of one of the clergy, and no chance is afforded of a close inspection.
The Puerta del Claustro leads from the S. transept of the cathe-
dral to the * Cloisters (14-16th cent.), which are distinguished by
an inexhaustible wealth of angels' heads, prophets, fantastic scenes,
and other ornamentation. The mural tombs and gravestones, ii
488 RouU 52, OVIEDO. From Leon
the Romanegque and Gothic styles of the 12-14th cent. , were
brought hither from other desecrated churches and are arranged
without any attempt at system. — The Gothic £fato Capitular, with
an octagonal vault, dates from the 13th cent, and served originally
as a hall of audience for the Spanish kings when at Oviedo.
Among the M8S. in the Abcuivo are a deed of gift of Alfonso II.
(812); the Lihro Ootico^ a richly illustrated collection of documents of the
i2th cent.; the Regla Colorado^ an inventory of 1384; and the Libro Be-
eerro^ a collection of church-registers and synodal reports (1886).
In the nelghhonrhood of the cathedral lie the churches of San
TirsOy San Juan^ San Pelayo, San Vicente, and Santa Maria de la
Corte, dating from the 8-14th cent, but all disfigured by restoration.
To the S., at the beginning of the Calle Santa Ana, is the handsome
palace of Count de las Navas (17th cent.). — From this quarter the
Calle Lorenzana, Calle Jovellanos, and Carretera de Gijon (views)
lead to the N.E. to the neighbonring churches of Scm Julian (San-
tuUiano) and Santa Maria de la Vega, dating from the 9th and
12th centuries. The former, in spite of restoration, has preserved
much of its original character. The latter, which belonged to a
Benedictine convent now converted into a JRoyal Factory of Small
Arm$, has been secularized and cannot be visited without the per-
mission of the director of the factory.
We now retrace our steps and proceed to the S.W. to the Plaza
Mayor or db la Constittjoion, the focus of the town's activity, with
the Casa Consistorial (1662) and the former Jesuit church of San
Isidoro (1678). Our route to it passes the convent of San Pelayo,
and follows the Calles Jovellanos, San Juan (to the right, the Au-
diencia, formerly the palace of the Marquis de Campo Sagrado),
Rua, and Cimadevilla. — From the Plaza Mayor we proceed to the
N., vilL the Calle del Peso, the Plaza de Riego, and the Calle San
Francisco, to the Unwersidad (1666), with a picture-gallery contain-
ing portraits of Asturian worthies and specimens of Ribera, Ricci,
Zurbaran, Herrera, and Giordano. There is also a poorly arranged
museum of natural history. In the middle of the fine arcaded court
is a bust of Queen Isabella II. (1858).
Beyond the Calle Urfa, to the W., are the Jardm Botanico and
two beautiful promenades called the Saldn de Bomhi and the Campo
de San Francisco. In the Escuela Normal, at the end of the Calle
Urfa, is housed the Mitseo Arqueologico Asturiano, containing pre-
historic objects, inscriptions, architectural fragments, Roman and
later vessels of terracotta, glass, and metal, and a cabinet of coins.
Adjacent, at the end of the Calle del Regente Jaz, stands the
Hospieio Provincial, an extensive edifice by Ventura Rodriguez
(1750), with a tasteful chapel. To the S.W. of the rail, station is
the Aqueduct of Fitoria (p. 486), ^4 M. long and having 41 arches,
dating from the 16th century.
ExcuBSiONs. 1. The hamlet of Naranco, situated on the slope of tbe
■'^a de Naranco, IV4 M. from Oviedo (fatiguing ascent), has two highly
sting, but sadly neglected churches of the time of Ramiro I. (843-
to a^on. GIJON. 52. RouU. 489
850). Santa Maria de Naranco^ perhaps a part of Bamiro^s palace, con-
sists of a cella-like nave with waggon-vauUing, opening by three arches
into a choir at one end and a presbytery at the other. Below is a crypt.
*Tbe chief interest of this building lies in the fact that it exhibits the
Spaniards in the middle of the 9th cent, trying to adapt a Pagan temple
to Christian purposes* (Ferguuon). — San Miguel de Lino is a basilica
with nave and aisles, but was sadly disfigured in 1846 by the curtailment
of the apse and the alteration of the originally semicircular chapels. The
remains of the rude stone ornamentation suggest Oriental models.
2. The royal cannon-foundry and small-arms factory of Trubia CFojuia
de la Fabrica)^ 8 M. to the W^ are reached by railway (3 trains daily)
in V« ^r- (fores 1 p. 65» 1 p. 20, 75 c). Trains start at the Estacion del
Iforte. Visitors are admitted on application.
3. To visit 0>vadonga (see below), we take the railway to (30 H. in
2 hrs. \ fares 5 p. 95^ 3 p. 55 c.) Infietio (Fonda de Perez) and drive thence
(22 H. t 4V2 hrs.) via Canga* de Oni* (Fonda de Ramon Labra), where the
Sella is crossed by a bridge of the 12th cent., the central arch of which is
60 ft. high and 67ft. in span. — Oovadonga (Hw»pedaria, unpretending), the
cradle of the Spanish monarchy and a frequented pilgrimage-resort, is a
small mountain-village with an abbey of the 16th century. Frum the lat-
ter a flight of steps ascends to the famous Cave^ in which Pelayo (d. 787),
the founder of the Asturian kingdom, took re^ge with 300 followers after
the disastrous battle on the Guadalete. From this coign of vantage ite
carried on his heroic resistance to the Moors, the beginning of the recon-
quest of Spain. The cave still contains the sarcophagus which is said to
hold the remidns of the hero, his wife Gandiosa, and his sister Horme-
sinda. The a^aeent church of Santa Maria contains the tomb of Alfonso I-
(d. 757). The principal pilgrimage takes place on Sept. 8th. — From
Covadonga excursions may be made to the Lago de Enol and to the top
of the Pelkii de Europa (6560 ft. ; for mountain-climbers only).
Beyond Oviedo the railway passes {9OV2M.) Lugonea, (93 M.)
Lugo de JUanera, (94V2 M.) Villahona (junction of a branch to Avilis
and San Juan de Nieva) , Serin (100 M.) , and (106 M.) Verina,
107 M. Gij6n. — Bailway Stations. 1. Ettaddn del Norte^ to the
W. of the town, on Pando Bay, for the line to Leon and Madrid. —
2. EaUteidn de Langreo^ close by, for Langreo and Laviana. — No carriages
meet the trains, but there is a tramway from the stations to the town.
Baggage is looked after by the hotel-porters.
Hotels. Hot. Suizo (Swiss landlord), Galle Corrida 29 \ Hot. Iberia,
Galle Trinidad 24, both with restaurants, pens. 8 p. — Cafes. C. Ool&n.
Calle Corrida 29-, C. Suizo, C. Trinidad 24.
Tramways. 1. From the railway-station to the harbour via the Ave-
nida, Travesia de la Bueda Carmen, and Calle Corrida. — 2. From the harbour
to Somi6 by the Galle Corrida, C. Munxiza, C. Moros, C. Jovellanos, C.
San Bernardo, C. Menende/. Valdc^s, C. Uria, the Campos EHseos, and La
Gufa. Fares 10-20 c.
Steamers ply, more or less regularly, to Corunna, Santander, Bilbao,
Vigo, Cadiz, London, Liverpool, etc.
Theatres. Teatro Jovaianoe, Calle Jovellanos, next door to the In-
stituto Jovellanos; Campos Eliseoe, with theatre, circus, and garden. —
Basque Ball Game (p. xxix), Carretera de Langreo. — Boll King, Carretera
de Villaviciosa.
Sea Baths. La* Carolina*, La Favorila, La Sultana, all on the Playa
de San Lorenzo (50-75 c, including dress and towels; with warm salt-
water 1 p. 25 c).
Physieian: Dr. Pelayo^ Calle Villaviciosa 24. -- Ohemist: Menendez
Rodriguez, Plaza de la Constitneion 4.
Yice-Oonsnls. British, W. Pmlington, Calle Corrida 45 (also Lloyd's agent);
United States, Calitto Alvargonzale* (agent), Galle San Bernardo 15.
Bookseller: F. Menendez, Calle Corrida 20. — Photographs: Palac
Calle Corrida 25.
490 Boute52. GIJON.
Bankttt. Bank of Spain, Galle Trinidad 38; F. Rodriguez^ Calle
Corrida.
Oijdn, the second-largest town and principal seaport of Astur-
ias, is a city of 18,000 inhab., situated to the S.E. of Cape Penas,
between two bays. It is supposed to be of Roman origin, fell into
the hands of the Saracens in 715, was recaptured by Pelayo in 722,
and was the residence of the Asturian kings down to 791. In the
strife between Pedro the Gruel and his half-brother, Henry of
Trastamara, Gijon was alternately the victim of both parties ; and
in 1395 it was burned down. In 1588 the harbour was the place of
refuge for the remnants of the ^Invincible Armada'. — Gijon is now
a favourite sea-batbing resort. The climate is mild, the average
temperature ranging from 52^ to 70° Fahr.
The town is well-built and has thriven greatly since the con-
struction of the harbour (1864) and its inclusion in the railway
system (1884). Originally it was confined to the hill of Santa Ca-
talma (Cimadevilla), but after its rebuilding in the 15-16th cent,
jt spread along the adjoining bays. It is now bounded by Cape
Torres on the W., Copt San Lorenzo on the £., and the subnrbs of
Ceares and Tremanes on the S.
The main activity of the place is seen in the W. quarters of
the town, containing the railway-stations, harbour, warehouses, and
custom-house. The shipping of the coal found at Langreo occu-
pies a large number of men.
The main streets of the inner town are the new Avenida^ begin-
ning at the rail, station ; the CalLe Corrida^ running to the W. from
the harbour j and the Calle Jovellanos, At the end of the Calle Cor-
rida rises a bronze statue, by M. Fuxa , of Don Ga^par Mclchor de
Jovellanos (1744-1811), the statesman and author, who was a native
of Gijon. In the Calle Jovellanos are the Theatre^ the Markets^ and
the ln»tituto JoveUanos^ an academy of seamanship, mathematics,
and languages, founded by the statesman after whom it is named.
It contains an admirable collection of ^Drawings by Spanish and
Foreign Masters, well worth the attention of lovers of art, in spite
of its unsatisfactory arrangement.
The collection (adm. on application to the (Umierje; fee 1 p.)i consist-
ing of about 1000 numbers, is arranged in five sections in one of the
rooms of the library (Salon de Boc^tos). The catalogue is by J. Menendez
Azebal. Among the artists represented are /. de Arfe (Nos. 487-4^9
Sec. UI, No. 27); Alonto Cano (232-256; centre, 1, 2, 3): Oorreggio (215
U, 35); Albreehl DUrer (447-452; III, 19); F. Qoya r382, 588; centre, 23);
Quido Rem (228-230; 111, 4, 5); Giulio Romano (126-129; If, 3, 4); Miehaei
Angelo (28-30; I, 9): Murillo (317-32cJ; centre, 9, 10, 11); Rembrandt (446;
m, 18); Ribera (427429; III, 13); Raphael (140; II, 8); Titian (210-212;
II. 32, 33); Vasari (86; I, 25): Velazqwz (4C6411; III, 7, 8); Paolo Veronm
(213, 214; II, 34); Zurbardn (337, 33S; centre, 13). The names attached to
the unsigned drawings rest on the authority of the art-historian Gean
Bermudez (d. 1819), who was a native of G^jon.
By the Larbour (Muelle del Oriente) are the palace of Count
^evillajije'do and a monumental fountain with a statue of Pelayo.
^n the Bay of San Lorenzo are the town-hall and the palace of
AVILfiS. 52.R0UU, 491
Count Yald^s. The parish-church of San Pedro, dating from the
15th cent., has three rows of aisles on each side. In the outermost
S. aisle is the tomb of JoYellanos, with a relief-bust by M. Fuxa.
A band plays on the evenings of the bathing season in the
attractive Pcueo de Begona, situated to the E. of the town. — The
Tobctcco Factory, established in 1842 in an old Augustine mon-
astery, employs 1500 women.
The *View from the top of the Santa Catalina hill extends in
clear weather to the PeHas de Europa, the Monte Sacro, and the
Cordal de Peon to the S., to Cape Penas and Cape Torres on the W.,
and Cape San Lorenzo.
From Gijon to Ayili^s, 24 M.. railway (starting from the Estacion del
Norte) in IV4 hr. (fares 4 p. 40, 3 p. 80 c., 2 p.). Carriages are changed at
(I2V2 M.) ViUabona (p. 489). — Aviles (Hot. Iberia), a seaport with 4900
inhab., lies in a picturesque hilly district, at the head of the Ria de Aviles.
It possesses several interesting buildings, such as the palaces of the Valde-
cdrzana, Camposoffrande, and Ferrera families, the Qotnic churches of San
Nieold$ and San Francisco^ and the Capilla de lot Aloe, with many tombs.
The bridge over the Bia also deserves notice.
A diligence, starting at Galle Corrida 24, runs daily from Qijon in
4 hrs. (fare 4 p.) to Villavioioaa {Fonda de Franeiteo Panda, unpretending),
pleasantly situated 17 M. to the E., on the ria of the same name. It con-
tains 800 inhab. and the interesting Gothic church of Santa Maria. — The
villages of Valdedios and Amandi, near Villaviciosa. also possess churches
(San Salvador and San Juan) of the 12-13th centuries.
53. From Monforte to Vigo and Santiago
de Compostela.
172 M. Railway from Mon/orte to Ft'^o, 111 M. Uren corr4o in 6V2 hrs.«
tren mixto in Sya hrs. ; fares 17 p. 50, 13 p. 15, 7 p. 9 c). — Railway from
Vigo to (19 M.) Pontevedra (three trains daily) in IV4 hr. (fares 3 p. 60,
2 p. 70, 1 p. 65 c). — Diligence from Pontevedra to (17 M.) Carril thrice
dally in 3 hrs. (fares 5 p., 3 p. 50, 2 p. 50 c). — Railway (one tren corrio
and four trene mixiot daily) from Carril to (25 M.) Santiago in V/t hr. (fares
4 p. 85, 3 p. 60, 2 p. 20 c.). — Railway-restaurants at Orense, Vigo, and
Santiago.
Monforte, see p. 481. — The railway runs to the S. through the
valley of Lemos and then ascends to (6 M.) Canabal, where it
penetrates the Qarganta del Ccibe by means of ten tunnels. Beyond
(12 V2 ^0 ^^^ Esteban we cross the Minho, here separating the pro-
vinces of Lugo and Orense. 18 M. Los Peare$; 23 M. Barra de Mino,
29 M. Ol^enBe. — The Railway Station (Restaurant) lies >/« ^- ^o the
N. of the town. Omnibuses meet the trains, but the luggage is attended
to by the hotel-porters.
Hotel. Db Roma, Calle Progreso 71. — Oafe. Suiso, Galle Progreso 45.
Post Office, Calle Progreso 65. — Telegraph Office, Calle Barrera. —
Deepacho Central (p. xvi), Calle Progreso 47.
Orense (470 ft.), the capital of a province and the see of a bishop,
is a town of 10,000 inhab., situated on the left bank of the Minho
and surrounded by hills. The Romans named it Aquae Vrentes be-
cause of its hot springs. Orense was the capital of the Suevi in t^
492 BouU63, ORENSE. From MonforU
6-7th cent ; In 716 it was destroyed by the Moors and in 884 it was re-
bailtby Alfonso III. Since the 16th cent, it has been of no importance.
The Catubdral, built in the Gothic style in 12^20, was much
injured by war and earthquake and underwent an unintelligent
restoration in the 16-17th centuries. Only a few fragments are left
of the elaborate decoration of the main front There are good por-
tals on the N., W., and S. sides; over the first is a Pietli in relief
(I5th cent.). The porch (elParaiso) has a certain resemblance to the
Portico de la Gloria at Santiago (p. 498), but is disfigured by later
additions, the insertion of altars, and tastelessly restored paintings.
The lantern over the crossing is by Rodrigo de Badajoz (15tb cent).
The choir-stalls are by Diego de Soils and Juan de Anges (16th
cent.), the adjoining screen is by Oelma. The presbytery is en-
closed by a plateresque reja, with an equestrian relief of St. Martin
and numerous figures and coats-of-arms. In the left transept is the
tomb of Bishop Vasco Marina. The Gothic retablo, in the capilla
mayor, has scenes from the life of Christ and the Virgin. Here,
too, are a silver tabernacle of the 17th cent and (right) the tomb
of an unknown prelate, with a representation of the Last Judgment
(14th cent.). In the Capilla del Divino Cristo is a Byzantine cru-
cifix, which is traditionally ascribed to Nicodemns and is said to
have been stranded on the coast of Galicia in 1330. On Corpus
Christi Day demons are exorcised in front of it The silver pro-
cessional cross in the sacristy is ascribed to the elder Arfe (p. Iv).
In the Calle del Instltuto is a bronze statue, by J. Sole'r (1887),
of Fray Benito Jeronimo Feyjoo (1676-1764), a Benedictine monk
bom at Orense , who made a name for himself as a scholar and
critic. — The bridge over the Minho (400 yds. long) was built by
Bishop Lorenzo in 1230, but has since been repeatedly restored.
The midmost of the seven arches is 125 ft in height, 140 ft. in span.
The hot sulphur springs of Las Burgas (150-155° Fahr.), at the
foot of the hill on which the town lies, fiow at the rate of about
30 gallons per minute ; the water is singularly clear and almost
devoid of smell. — An omnibus plies regularly to the small mineral
baths of (1 1/4 M.) Caldas de Orente.
Beyond Orense the train runs to the S.W. along the Minho,
traversing the so-called granary of Galicia. In the background rise
the hills of Benama. -— 37V2 M. Barbantes; 46 M. Rhaddvia^ the
second town of the province (2100 inhab.), at the confluence of the
Avia with the Minho ; 53 M. Filgueira, a watering-place with springs
impregnated with sulphur, iron, and soda. — We enjoy fine views
of the wild and wood-clad gorges of the Minho. In the ravine
named Pases de San Gregorio^ on the left (Portuguese) bank of the
Minho, is the waterfall of Barja. — 591/2 M. Frieira; 63 M. Pmaa;
671/2 M. i4r6rf, celebrated for its salmon-fishing ; 75 M. Las Nieves.
— 791/2 M. Salvatierra^ the chief place in the wine-growing district
to Santiago. VIGO. &3, BouU, 493
of that name, lies on the Alcahre, Like Mon^ao, on the Foicuguese
side of the Minho, it is surrounded by mediseval walls. — - Wo cross
the Alcabre. 84^/2 M. Calddas, a frequented watering-place. The
train now leaves the course of the Minho and turns to the N.W.
88 M. Gmllarey is the junction of a branch to Yalen^a do Minho,
where it joins the Portuguese railway for Oporto and Lisbon (R.65).
Fbom Quillaret to Valen^a po Minho, 3 M., two trains daily in
V2 hr. (fares 90, 70, 40 c).
2 M. Tuy (Fonda de boHa Carmen^ unpretending^ omn. at the station),
the see of a bishop, with 28t)0 inhab., picturesquely situated on a hill
rising over the Minho, was the Roman Castellum Tude. At the beginning
of the 8th cent, it was the capital of Witiza, King of the Visigoths, and
after various vicissitudes it was finally recaptured from the Moors by
Alfonso VII. in the 12th century. In the wars between Castile and Portugal
this strongly fortified place played a prominent part. The CatTiedraL a
sombre, fortress-like edifice of the 12th cent., was rebuilt in the 15-loth '
centuries. The portals are interesting, and many of the chapels are fenced
in by fine Renaissance parcloses. The Capilla de Santa Catalina contains
a Descent from the Cross of the i8th century. The cloisters (14th cent.)
are sadly dilapidated.
The train crosses the Minho (1090 ft.) by an imposing iron bridge
constructed in 18S5.
3 M. Valenga do Minho, the Portuguese frontier-station, see p. 584.
From (94 M.) Porrino omnibuses run to MondariZy a much-
frequented watering-place. We thread the tunnel of Valos and sweep
round to the viaduct of (104 M.) Redondela^ traversing an attractive
landscape and enjoying a distant view of the Bay of Vigo.
Ill M. Vigo. — The Railway Station (Restaurant) lies 8/4 M. to the
W. of the town. Omnibuses meet the trains.
Hotela. Continental, Plaza Eduayen, with view of the seaj Eubopa,
Calle del Principe, pens, from 7 p. — Oafis. Cafi Buizo, Calle del Prin-
cipe; Cafi Mendef Nunez ^ Puerta del Sol.
Foat & Telegraph Office, Calle Velazquez Moreno. — Theatre : Teatro
Tambei'lick, Calle del Circo.
Physicians. Ewique Lcmz6$, at the Continental Hotel; Candido Lemos,
Plaza de la Constitucion. — Sea Baths, Play a de San Francisco.
Bookseller : Eugenio Krapf, Calle Policarpo Sanz, near the post-office.
— Photographs: fei/pe Prd^eri, Calle del Principe.
Banks. Bank of Spain, Calle del Arenal \ Estanislao Duran (agent for
Vogel & Co.. Madrid), Calle del Principe iJ/^a»»««/ Bdrcena Franco (agent
of the Credit Lyonnais}, Calle Real. — lEoney Changer: Fisdro Roman,
Calle Imperial.
Consuls. British Vice -Consul, Manuel Bdrcena Franco (also Lloyd's
agent), see above; United States, Camilo MoUne.
Steamers to Corunna, Carril, Oijdn, and Santander twice weekly (Spanish
lines); to Southampton every fortnight (Royal Mail Steam Packet Co.); to
La Rochelle and Liverpool every fortnight (Pacific Steam Navigation Co.) ;
to Southampton, Antwerp, and Bremen, once or twice a month (North German
Lloyd) ; to Hamburg fortnightly (Hamburg and S. America Steam Packet Co.) ;
to Bordeaux^ once or twice a month (Messageries Maritimes).
Small Boats for hire; no tariff, bargaining necessary.
Vigo, an important commercial town and seaport with 15,000
inhab., is picturesquely situated on the S. bank of the Ria de Vigo
and on the N.W. slope of a hill, crowned by the Caatillo del Castro
and surrounded by higher mountains. It is much visited for its
excellent sea-bathing, and the climate is said to be admirable. —
In the beginning of the War of the Spanish Succession (Oct. 22nd
494 MoyU53, PONTEVLDRA.
1702) an AngL<Hl>utch fleet under Admirals Booke end SUnhope
ettecked the Spenisli 'bilver Fleet' in the herboni of Vi^, captoied
much of the treasure, and sank many of the Spanish vessels.
The older parts of the town, to the N. and W., are crowded and
irregular, the streets generally steep and paved with granite. The
Utverahan presents a stirring picture daring the time of the fish-
market. The CaUe Beal^ ascending to the church of 8ania Maria,
was once the main street of Vigo. Adjacent is the PUuta de la
ContiUueif/n^ with the town-hall.
The chief scenes of activity in the modern quarter to the £.
are the CalU del Pr'meipt and the OalU del Arenal, the latter run-
ning along the harbour. The attractive Aiamtda contains a mon-
ument to Admiral Mende* Nunaif by A. Querol, erected in 1690. At
the point where the Galle del Garral reaches the harbour is another
monument, by the same artist (1896 j, to J. Eldaayen, late finance
minister of Spain. — The Plata de la Piedra (or de Villavicencio),
adjoining the harbour on the N.E., affords a fine view of the har-
bour, the bay, the Islas Cies, and the villages of Caiigas, Meira,
and Damayo on the N. bank. A similar view is enjoyed from the
CaatiUo del Caeito, to the S.; but permission to enter the fort must
be obtained from the commandant.
Exoimloiis. Br Sailino Boat. To the Itlat de Ciet (Insulae Siccae),
at the mouth of the harboar. — Br Carriage. 1. To (13 M.) Bayona
(Fonda de la Palma)y charmingly situated on the coast, with an interest-
ing collegiate church of the 12th cent, and the Castillo de Montereal (Itith
cent.). 2. To San Fayo (Fonda del Italiano), on the Bia, 12 M. to the £.
— Br RaiLWAr. 1. To Tuy (p. 493), one train daily in 2V4 hrs. (fares 4 p.
66, 3 p. 50, 2 p. 10 c). 2. To (16 M.) Porrtio (p. 4b3) two trains daily in
ihr. (fares 3 p., 2 p. 25, Ip. 40 c.). Thence we may drive, via Fuente
Areas, to (12 H.) the prettily situated watering-place of Mondariz (Fonda
de Enrique Peinador). 8. To Fontevedra (see below and p. 491).
The Railway p&om Yioo to Pontbtbd&a diverges from the
line to Monforte at (7 M.) Redondela (p. 498) and then runs via
(121/2 M.) Arcade and (16 M.) ligueirido.
19 M. Fonteyedra (^Hot, Mendez Nunez ^ indifferent, pens.
5-6 fr.), the Roman Pons Vetus or Duo Ponies and the capital of a
modern province, is a town of blOOiubab., charmingly situated at
the head of the Hia de Pontevedra^ in the delta of the Lerezy Alba^ and
Tomtza, It is still partly enclosed by the old walls. The Gothic
church oi' Santa Maria Mayor has a facade of the 16th century. The
former conventual church of San Francisco contains the tombs of
Adm. Gomez Charino and his wife. In the Alameda^ to the W. of
the town, are the Casa Consistorialj the JDiputacion H'ovincial (two
Imposing buildings), and the remains of the convent of Santo Bo-
mingo^ which was occupied by the French in 1809 and stormed by
the peasants of the neighbourhood. The Alameda also affords a
good distant view of the little port of Marin (steam-tramway). The
church of La Peregrina, \^ith an elegant favade and slender towers,
dates from the last century.
DE COMPOSTELA
im. i>.»t ^co fc«« Ui^laM>«
I
ll^rapli, AtistaUT
SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA. 53, RouU, 495
F&oM PoNTEVBDBA TO Cabeil, 17 M. The diligence (see p. 491)
starts at the H6t Mendez Nufiez. — The small port of Carril (Brit.
Yice-Gonsul) lies on the Bdy ofArosa, In the vicinity are the warm
sulphur haths (90-140^ Fahr.) of Caldaa de Reyes and Caldas de
CutUia and the popular sea-bathing resort of VUlagarefa.
From Gabbil to Santiago, 26 M. The railway (see p. 491) passes
(5 M.) Catoka and (11 M.) Ceaurea (Pons Cffisaris), where the UUa
is spanned by an imposing Roman bridge. — I2V4 M. Padrdn^ the
Roman Iria Flavia, at the confluence of the 8ar and the Ulla.
At (151/2 M.) EsclavUud is the pilgrimage-church of Nueatra Senora
de la EadavUud, formerly a widely known asylum for criminals and
containing numerous votive offerings of their gratitude. — 191/2 M.
Oaebe; 22^/2 M. Caaal. We pass the lunatic asylum of Conjo,
25 M. (172 M. from Monforte) Santiago dc Compoatela. The
rail, station (restaurant) lies 1 M. to the S.W. of the town. Omni-
buses only to the Despacho Central or to the FerrocaTfilana (see
below). Luggage is taken in charge by the hotel-porters.
Santiago de Gompostela. — Hotel. Fonda Suiea^ Plaza del Insti-
tute, pens, from 7 p. — Oafii. Cafi Svito^ Rua Kueva ; 0. Iberia^ Rua
del Villar ; C. Etpanol^ Calle de las Hu^rfanas.
Post ft Telegraph Office, Plaza de los Literarios. — Biligence (£a
Ferrocarrilana, Calle Hu<5rfanas 40) to GoTunna, 40 M., twice daily in
V/i hrs. (fares 12 p. 50 c, 10 p., 7 p. 50 c). Places must be taken in advance.
— Detpacho Central (p. xvi), Calle del Toral.
Booksellers, Rua del Villar 14, 23, and 46. — Photographs : Rua del
ViUar 50 and 70.
Santiago de Compostela (1948 ft.), the see of a Metropolitan
Archbishop, seat of a . university, and formerly the capital of
Galicia, is a town of 14,700 inhab., situated on a hilly plateau
surrounded by mountains, on the slope of the Monle Pedroao and
near the confluence of the Sar and the Sarela. The foundation of
the town is connected with the story of the discovery of the body of
St. Jamea the Greater. According to the pious legend, the remains
of the Apostle, after he had been beheaded in Judsea (Acts, xii. 2),
were brought to Spain, whfere their whereabouts was soon for-
gotten till, in the 9th cent., a brilliant star pointed out the spot
(^campus stellffi') to Bishop Theodomir of Iria. The tradition that
the Apostle James had preached the Gospel in Spain was current
at least as early as the 7th cent, and the belief in this patron-saint
soon became so firmly grounded that he was frequently seen, clad
in gleaming armour, helping the Christians in their battles with
the Moors. The earliest sanctuary over the grave, which was erected
by Alfonso I. and enlarged by Alfonso III., was wholly destroyed
by the Moors under Almansor in 997. After its re-erection the
church acquired an extraordinary reputation, and thousands of pil-
grims streamed to it every year. The vast number of pilgrims gave
rise to the popular name for the Milky Way — viz. 'El Caminr
496 RouU 53. SANTIAGO DK OOMPOSTELA. CaUiedral.
de Santiago". E^en now Santiago is one of the most frequented
pilgrim-resorts in Christendom. It contains no fewer than 46 ecclesi-
astical edifices, with 288 altars, 114 bells, and 36 pious fraternities.
On the E. side of the Plaza Alfokso Docb (or del Hospital ;
PI. B, 3) rises the ^Cathedral (PI. B, 3), the most important mon-
ument of the early-Romanesque style in Spain (comp. p. xlii). Tlie
building of the present church began in 1078 or 1082 under Bishop
Diego Primeiro Pelaet, was zealously furthered by the first arch-
bishop, Diego Stgundo OHmiret (1100-1130), and went on during
the whole of the 12th century. The consecration took place in 1211.
The exterior underwent such sweeping alterations in the 16th and
18th cent. , that Its general aspect is now that of a picturesque ba-
roque structure. — The ground-plan of the church is that of a Latin
cross. The nave and aisles are intersected by an aisled transept
with a domed tower over the crossing; the choir has a semicircular
ending, with an ambulatory and five chapels. The whole arrange-
ment is so similar to that of St. Semin of Toulouse, that it is im-
possible to doubt that it is due to French architects. The total
length of the building is 308 ft., that of the transepts 207ft. ; the
nave is 78ft. high, the aisles 23 ft., the dome 108ft. The building
material is mainly granite.
The W. Facade, known as El Obradoiro, was erected by Fer-
nando Ccuae y Novoa in 1738 and is in the most extravagant ba-
roque style. The wide flight of steps in front of it, arranged iu
four sections, is admirably adapted for processional purposes. The
huge gable is flanked by two towers, each 230 ft. high and resting
on Romanesque foundations. The portal, above which is a statue
of St. James, is opened only for the passage of the very highest
secular and ecclesiastical dignitaries. — > The Azabacherfa, or N.
Fbont of the transept, facing the Plazuela de la Fuente de San
Juan, is a work of the insipid archaistic tendency of the second half
of the 18th cent. •, its architect was Ventura Rodriguez (d. 1786).
Between the middle windows of the principal stage is an allegorical
figure of Faith ; over the attic is a group representing Ordofio II.
and Alfonso III. kneeling before St. James. — On the E. Side
of the choir, towards the Plaza de los Llterarios , is the Puerto
Santa, a portal of the 18th cent., opened only in the year of jubilee.
The statues with which it is adorned belonged to an earlier door,
now destroyed ; over the door are modern statues of SS. James,
Athanasius, and Theodore. — The S. Feont of the transept, the
Puerta de Platerias, facing the Plazuela de las Platerias, dates back
to the beginning of the 12th cent. (1116?). It has richly adorned
portals and deeply recessed windows. In ^e spandrels of the two
doorways are reliefs of the Temptation (left) and the Passion (right).
On the wall above is Jesus Christ, surrounded by Apostles, Prophets,
and Saints. Some of these figures are of still earlier date than the
facade they now adorn. The Torre de la Trinidad (262ft.), which
f IBM M 'm ^ 11^
PLaza de
I OS J*Uerai
CI an s L r [p
' 'H L Jl
' I Bib h ot4r cA I S i(l£i Cap 1 1 II In r
Puprta
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N ^,
P 1 a 7. a d e Alfonso Xir
SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA. 53. Route. 497
rises to the right, is old only in its lower part; the upper stages
were completed by Domingo Andrade in 1680 (ascent worth mak-
ing in good weather). To the left runs the outerwall of the cloisters,
with picturesque turrets at the angles. — The upper part of the
Central Tower dates from the 18th century.
The Intbrioe of the cathedral is very impressive, especially in
entering it by the Puerta de Platerias. The nave has a waggon
vault and is separated from the aisles by pillars standing at small
intervals. The aisles have quadripartite vaulting, and above them
is a fine triforium - gallery , opening on the nave and running
round the whole church. The most imposing view of the in-
terior is obtained from the transept. The choir-stalls are by Juan
de VUa f 1606), the organs by Manuel Sanz and Gregorio Gonzalez
(1708-T7). On the W. wall of the S. transept is an old relief of
St. Jame$ on Horseback. Below the crossing hangs a huge censer
(el botafumeiro), about 6 ft. high, which is swung from side to side
by an iron chain.
The Capilla Mayer stands immediately over the grave of the
Apostle. The retablo of the high-altar, a tall erection of jasper,
alabaster, and silver, with numerous figures, is an extravagant
example of the Churrigueresque style (1672). The altar itself was
made by Figuera in 1716 out of a mass of silver weighing 1100 lbs.
The silver lamps and candelabra date from the 18th century.
In a niche above the altar is a seated figure of St. James, freely
adorned with silver, gold, and precious stones. To the right and
left are two bronze pulpits, with gilt reliefs by Juan Celma (1563).
— A side -staircase descends to the Crypt, containing the graves of
the Apostle and two of his disciples. The silver shrine for the
bones of the saint is modern.
The contents of the chapels fringing the apse and transept are
mainly sculptures and retablos. The most interesting monuments
are that of Diego de Castilla (1521), in the CapUla de San Bar-
tolom6 (PI. 6), and those of Card. Pedro Varela (1574), Juan
Mergalejo (1534), and Francisco Pefia and his wife (14th cent.), in
the CapiUa del Espiritu Santo (PI. 8).
The Capilla de la Corticela or Parroqufa, said to date from the
10th cent, consists of nave and aisles, with a rectangular apse. Its
Romanesque W. portal has shafts in the jambs and carved capitals.
The vault of the chapel and the passage connecting it with the
transept of the cathedral are modern.
In the Cap. del San'o Cristo de Burgos (PL 12) is the tomb of
Archbp. Pedro Carrillo (d. 1667). The reliefs of the side-altar to
the right in the Cap. de San Fernando (PI. 15) represent scenes
from the life and martyrdom of St. James (15-16th cent.). — The
Cap. de las Reliquias (PI. 16; open only up to 9 a.m.) contains the
tombs ofDofiaBerenguela (wife of Alfonso VI.), Ferdinand II. and
Alfonso IX. of Leon, Juana de Castro (wife of Pedro the Cruel), and
Ba£D£K£b'b Spain and Portugal. 32
49S Route 53. SANTIAGO PE COMPOSTKLA.
other royalties. The baroque retablo, wtth figures of the Virtues,
Is by Bernardo Cabrera (1633).
Among the reliquariea and other Talaables are the <V«? de At/onto
Tereero^ similar to the Cruz de los Angeles at Oviedo, probably an old
Moorish seal converted into a crucifix^ Chaiiee and Pattern of St. Rosendtu
(15tta cent.); Reliqutny^ with a thorn from the Crown of Thorns (15th
cent.); silver-gilt *Oustodla by Juan de Arfe (1564 ; seep. Iv); skull of St.
Jarnes Alphaemt^ with a silver case in the form of a skull (14th cent.);
phial of the Yirgin^s milk.
Immediately behind the W. portal (El Obradoiro ; see p. 496)
rises the so-called *Pobtico db la Glo&ia, completed by Maestre
Mateo in 1188 after 20 years* work and pronounced by Mr. Street
*one of the greatest glories of Christian art'.t This consists of
a yesttbnle or porch, extending across the entire width of the
nave and dirided into three corresponding sections. It is roofed
with quadripartite vaulting and adorned with the most elaborate
sculpture. A superb double doorway, with numerous stataes,
opens on the nave, while smaller but equally ornate doorways
lead into the aisles. On the shaft dividing the central doorway
into two is a seated figure of St. James, holding the bordon or
palmer's staff.
The shaft Itself Is adorned with exquisitely delicate carving of
the tree of Jesse. The main capital above the statue represents
the Temptation in the Garden and Angels ministering to Christ.
The shafts in the jambs of the main portal and the side-doorways
are adorned with figures of Apostles and Major Prophets. In the
tympanum of the central door is a seated figure of Our Lord, with
upraised hands. Around him are the Evangelists and eight angels
with the instruments of the Passion, while above are 42 figures of
the worshipping elect. The archivolt shows figures of the 24 Elders
of the Apocalypse. The general idea of the whole doorway is the
Appearance of Christ at the Last Judgment. Above the side-doors
are representations of Purgatory (left) and Hell (right). Some traces
of painting are still visible. At the back of the middle pillar of
the main portal is a kneeling figure, supposed to be a portrait of
Master Matthew himself.
The *Cloi8tbbs were built by Archbp. Fonseca in 1521-46 in
the Gothic style, with ornamental details borrowed from the Re-
naissance. They are among the largest and most beautiful in Spain.
The walks are 115 ft. long and 19 ft. wide. — Adjoining the cloisters
is the Sala Capitular^ the .walls of which are hung with tapestry.
In the altar-recess are the Conversion of St. Paul and the Treachery
of Judas, two small pictures ascribed to Murillo. The botafumeiro
mentioned at p. 497 is kept here when not in use.
The IgUsia Bdja (entr., PI. 16), or lower church, under the
Portico de la Gloria, dates from the 12th century. It consists of
t There is a plaster cast of this noble porch in South Kensington
Museum.
SANTIAGO BE COMPOSTELA. 53. limte. 499
nare, transept, and apse, the last with recesses for five altars. The
vaulting is supported by piers with clustered shafts.
In addition to the Cathedral the Plaza de Alfonso Doce (see p. 496)
is adjoined by several other imposing buildings. Adjoining the
cathedral is the Archiepiscopal Palace. — To the N. is the HoS"
pital Real, founded in 1489 by the ^Catholic Kings' and erected
in 1501-10 by Enriqne de Egas (pp. 1, lii). The entrance and the
two S. courts (in the Renaissance style) demand attention. The
crossing-piers of the chapel are elaborately sculptured, and the fine
screens are by Maestro .Gnilltfn (1666). — To the S.W. is the
Palacto Consistorial, built by Archbp. Bartolom^ Rajoy in 1766-72
and now occupied by the mnnicipal and judicial authorities. In
the central tympanum is a representation of the mythical battle of
Clavijo (844), above which is an equestrian statue of St. James. —
To the S. is the Colegio San Jeronimo, now a normal school, with a
portal of the 15-16th centuries.
In the Plaza Fuente de San Juan, opposite the N. transept of
the cathedral, stands the convent of San Martin Pinario (PI. B, 3),
now a seminary. The facade of the convent was begun by Mateo
Lopez in 1690. The handsome patlo and the church (to the N.E.)
were completed by Antonio Gonzalez In 1646. The most noticeable
features in the latter are the choir-stalls by Fernando de Prado and
the Altar of St. Escolastica, in the Capilla del Rosario (right), with
wood-carvings by Ferreiro (1737).
To the N.W. is the Gonyent of San Francisco (PI. B, 2), the
largest building in Santiago after the cathedral. It dates originally
from the 12th cent., but both convent and church were wholly
rebuilt in the 16-17th centuries. Above the church-door is a statue
of St. Francis, by Ferreiro. In the gatehouse of the convent is the
tomb of Cotolay, founder of the convent (13th cent.). The cloisters,
dating mainly from 1613, incorporate a few fragments of the orig-
inal structure.
The Colegio Foneeca (PI. B, 3, 4), to the S. of the Plaza de Al-
fonso XII., was erected in 1644 and is now occupied by the medical
faculty of the university. Its most interesting features are the Re-
naissance portal by Alava, the beautiful patio, and the artesonado
ceiling of the Sal6n de Actos (groundfloor, to the left).
The Rtja dbl Villab (PI. B, 4), with arcades on the groundfloor
of the houses, is the chief business-street of Santiago. — In the
RuA Ntjibva (PI. B, C, 4), which runs parallel with it, are the
Theatre (1841) and the church of Santa Maria Salomi, founded by
Archbp. Galmirez in the 12th cent., with a Romanesque portal, a
Gothic atrium, and a 16th cent, belftry. — Not far off is the TTni-
versity (PI. 0, 4), built at the end of the 18th cent, by Josi Man-
chado. It contains good scientific collections and a fair library. To
the N. lies the Market (^Plaza de Ahastos^ PI. 0, 3), which should be
visited* on Thursday. — In the Alameda (PI. A, B, 4^ 6) is the
32*
500 Route 53. SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA.
monument of Admiral Mendez 'Nufiez, by Jnan Sanmartin y Serna,
erected in 1885.
Some of the churches on the outskirts of the town also deserve
mention. Santa Suaana (PI. A, 4), dating from 1105 and situated
in the so-called Htrradwra^ commands a fine view to the E. of the
cathedral, the town, and the Pico Sacro. — San Lorenzo^ lying in
an oak-grove, IV4 M. from the Barrio de San Lorenzo de Afuera
(PL A, 3), dates Arom 1216 and is now the private property of the
Duke of Medina Torres. Its most noticeable featnres are the Re-
naissance altar of Carrara marble, the fine :nrood-carving by Martinez
Montafies (p. lix), and the handsome monuments of the Marquis
and Marchioness of Ayamonte (d. 1625). The decorative boxwood
figures of the cloisters (monograms, escutcheons, crosses, etc.)
date from the beginning of the 18th century. — The highly inter-
esting church ot Santa Mafia de Sar {V\. D, 6), in the Barrio de Sar
de Afuera, of the 12th cent., has a partly preserved cloister, and
is supposed to be the work of Maestre Mateo.
The environs of the town are very picturesque. Excursions
may be made to the Monte Pedroso (2410 ft.), Monte AUamira^ Pico
Sacro (2250 ft.), and Mofiie Santa Marina, all affording good views.
Some kind of a guide is necessary.
PORTUGAL.
54. From Badajoz to Lisbon via Torre das Vargens and En-
troncamento 609
From Abrantes to Ouarda, 511. — From Carregado to Galdas
da Bainha, 513.
55. Liibon 514
a. Cidade Baixa, Lisboa Occidental, and Buenos Ayres 520
b. Lisboa Oriental 527
c. The Streets bordering the Tagus (from E. to W.) . 530
d. Ajuda and Belem 534
56. Environs of Lisbon 539
a. Lumiar and Odivellas 539
b. Cacilhas 540
c. Estoril and Cascaes 540
d. Cintra 541
57. From Lisbon to Evora and Estremoz 546
From Plnhal Novo to Palmella and Setubal, 546.
58. From Lisbon to Beja and Faro 548
59. From Lisbon to Alfarellos (CJoimbra) via Mafra, Vallado,
and Leirfa 549
From Obidos to the Lago d'Obidoa and to Peniche, 551.
— From Vallado to Nazareth, 652.
60. From Vallado to Leirfa via Aicoba^a and Batalha . . 553
61. From Lisbon to Oporto via Entroncamento, Alfarellos,
Goimbra, and Pampilhosa 560
62. Coimbra 565
63. From Pampilhosa to Villar Formoso (Salamanca, Medina
del Gampo) via Guarda 571
64. Oporto 573
a. The W. Quarters of the City, 576. — b. The E. Quarters
of the City. The S. Bank of the Douro, 680. — c. West-
ern Environs of Oporto , 582. — From Oporto to P6voa
de Varzim, 583.
65. From Oporto to Braga 583
From Tropa to Guimaraes, 584.
66. From Oporto to Fuente San Est^an (Salamanca, Medina
del Gampo) via Fregeneda 585
I. Practical Hints.
The introductory remarks on Spain apply in the main to Portugal
also. The anangements of the Rail'ways are similar, except that
the first-class carriages are still less satisfactory, while on the branch
32/33
502 PORTUGAL.
lines there are no reserved compartments for ladies or non-smokers.
On the other hand , order and punctuality are better observed. For
railway-time, see p. 11 ; for time-tablet, see p. xv.
The Post Ofpicb fCorreio) is modelled more on that of the other
European nations ; and in the larger towns letter-boxes (caixaa) may
be found at the street-corners. The postal rate for letters (cartas)
within Portugal and Spain is 26 rs. , for foreign countries (para o
estrangtUro) 50 rs.; post-cards (bUheU pottal) 10 and 20 rs.
Lisbon, Gijitra, Bussaco, aod .Oporto possess excellent Hotels.
some of them fitted up with great luxury. The tariff is usually from
1500 to 3000 rs. per day, but the first breakfast and table-wine are
often extra. The dtfjetiner (almofo) ii sfer^ed during the whole
forenoon , dinner (Jantar) generally at 6 or 6.30 p. m. Tea (ehd) or
coffee is included in each meal without extra charge. The smaJler
houses patronized by Portuguese and Brazilians in the larger towns
resemble the Gasas de Huespedes of Spain ; the stranger will gener-
ally find in them a want of order'and cleanliness, while the cuisine
is often miserable and the beds ate hard as boards. The inns (Hot-
pedarids) in the smaller towns and in thel country can seldom satisfy
even the most modest demands, but their charges are correspond-
ingly low (average rate 1000 rs. per day, including wine). When
attendance is not charged in the bill, it is customary to give gra-
tuities of about 200 rs. in the larger hotels or 100- 160 rs. in the
country. Hotel omnibuses are unknown.
The PoBTUouBSE Language makes a somewhat unpleasant im-
pression on the Tisltor from Spain on account of the comparative
dulness of its tone and the numerous sibilant and nasal sounds. A
knowledge of it is hardly necessary for a short visit. English,
French, German, and Spanish are often spoken at the larger hotels,
and French will usually do at a pinch in the towns generally. The
stranger may find Spanish of service in the country , but the Portu-
guese answer will seldom be understood. Those who make a stay of
any length -should therefore try to familiarize themselves with the
most current phrases. t
The GuEBENCY of the country has been in a very unsatisfactory
state since the national bankruptcy of 1892. Gold has wholly dis-
appeared from circulation, and even the silver coins (50, 100, 200,
and 500 reis) are seldom met with. The usual circulating medium
is paper money, in the form of notes for 50, 100, 500, 1000, 2600,
t The Peonunciation usually gives the foreigner a good deal of dif-
ficulty. The Spanish II and n (p. xil) are represented by 1h and nh^ while
II is pronounced much as in English. In the middle or at the end of a
word t generally sounds like sh; J sounds like the French j in jour, ch
as in church, f like ss.' The til (tilde) ^ or nasal accent (♦**), over a
vowel has the same efiect es the addition of a in French (« = French
an, etc.) J in the case where two vowels occur together the nasal sound
follows the second (do = aon, ffe = ocn). Of the other vowel sounds ei is
like a in flate, em like t^e French ain.
PORTUGAL. 503
6000, 10,000, aud20,000rs. There are also copper coins of 10 and
20 rs. — At the present rate of exchange 200 re'is are the equi-
valent of a Spanish peseta (comp. the money-tahle before the title
page). A sovereign is worth about 6 milreis. A sum of 2000 rs. is
named todtSo (pi. tost3fe9\ 1000 rs. um milreis, 1000 milreis um conto*
The Sights of Lisbon, Oporto, Ooimbra, and other large cities
are generally shown only at certain fixed hours, and access at other
times is, as a rule, flatly refused. In smaller places, like Alcoba^a,
Batalha, and Thomar, the monuments of art are generally accessible
all day long. A single traveller pays a fee of 80-300 rs., parties
more in proportion*
Plan of Toub, see p. xiii. Those who leave Portugal by sea
must show a passport or some other satisfactory credentials.
The best Travelling Season is April and the beginning of
May ; it is only in these days of spring that the whole country is
equally attractive. In summer the vegetation of S. and Central
Portugal is scorched and browned by the perpetual blaze of the
sun, while in winter and early spring there is too much rain, es-
pecially in the N. The rainfall diminishes as we proceed from the
coast inland (Mafra 44 in. annually, Lisbon 26 in.) and still more
as we proceed from N. to S. (Oporto 52 in., Coimbra 35 in., Lagos
20 in.). Snow, here called chuva de neuc (*snow-rain') or, more
familiarly, chuva branca ('white rain'), falls almost nowhere except
in the extreme N. and on the mountains. Frost occurs only in
clear weather , when the wind hlpws from Spain (minimum tem-
perature of Lisbon 29® Fahr. , of the high-lying Guarda 20® Fahr.).
Invalids may find the prevalent sea-winds, generally from the N.W.
and W., a little trying in winter, but in summer they temper most
agreeably the sultry heat of the coast (maximum temperature at
Lisbon 102® Fahr., annual mean 60®). — In May, June, and autumn
the forest-girdled mountain-resorts, such as Gintra and Bussaco,
afford pleasant quarters, while in summer the favourite resorts are
the sea-bathing places of Estoril, Cascaes, Ericeira, Nazareth,
Mattosinhos, Granja, and Espinho.
n. History and Geography.
Eis aqui, quasi came da cabe^a
De Earopa toda, o reino Lnsitano^
Onde a terra se acaba, e o mar come^a,
E onde Fhebo repousa no Oceano.
See, the head-crowning coronet is she,
Of general Europe, Lnsitania's reign,
Where endeth land and where beginneth ^ea,
And Phoebus Sinks to rest upon the main.
CamoenSj Lueiads III. 20 (translation of Sir B. F. Burton).
The kingdom oi Portugal has an area of 34,508 sq. M. and at the
close of 1890 contained 4,660,000 inhab., nearly all of whom were
Roman Catholics and about three-fourths illiterate. The ^Adjacentes'
504 PORTUGAL.
Madeira and the Azores have an area of 1237 sq.M. and a popniation
of 390,000 sonU, while the Important Portngnese colonies in AiWca
and the E. Indies (Din, Daman, and Goa) are about 772,000 sq. M.
injextent The national colours are bine and white. On a peace-
footing the army consists of 26,000 men. In 1894 the navy con-
sisted of 47 vessels, the commercial fleet of 442 sailing vessels and
44 steamers.
In antiquity the country belonged to the Roman province of Luti-
iania. At a later date it was overrun by the Germanic tribes of the
Vandals, Alans, Suevi, and Visigoths. In the 8th cent, the Moors
invaded the district Ferdinand I. of Castile conquered the N. part
of the country about the middle of the 11th century.' In 1096 his
successor granted the ^Oountship of Portugal' as a hereditary flef to
Count Henry of Burgundy , who had proffered his services against
the Moors; and Henry's son, Affonso /., assumed the regal title in
1139. The new kingdom early entered into intimate relations with
England , especially in the reign of Affonso lY. (1326-67 ; comp.
p. 619). In 1383 the male line of this house died out, and the
Estates, in order to avoid a reunion with Castile, elected the Grand
Master of the Knights of Aviz, a natural son of the last ruler , as
king, with the title of John /. This sovereign married Philippa,
daughter of John of Gaunt, and concluded the important Treaty of
Windsor with England (1386). He was also the first foreign monarch
to receive the Order of the Garter (1400). With him begins the
heroic age of Portuguese history. After successful wars with Castile
and the Moors, Prince Benry the Navigator (p. 668) aroused the
public interest in voyages of discovery. Madeira was occupied in
1420, and the coast of Guinea was explored a little later. Bartholo-
meu Diaz rounded the Cape of Good Hope in 1486, and in 1498
Vaaco da Oama discovered the sea-route to India. Brazil was taken
possession of by Pedro Alvares Cabral about 1600. In 1610 Affonso
de Albuquerque made important conquests in Hindostan and Indo-
China. The reign of Emmanuel L (1496-1621), surnamed *the
Fortunate', marks the zenith of the power of Portugal. Art also
reached its highest point in his time (comp. p. 636).
The illegitimate Burgundian line also became extinct in 1680,
and Portugal was incorporated with Castile, with which it had to
share the results of the unfortunate struggle with the Low Countries.
In 1640, however, the people placed the Duke of Braganza on the
throne , as John IV. The new dynasty succeeded in maintaining
the independence of Portugal against Spain, but the old glory was
gone. The spendthrift policy of John V, (1706-60) impoverished
the country in spite of the gold and diamond mines of Brazil. The
famous Methuen Treaty (1703), though doubtless going far to
assure the independent existence of Portugal, practically made it a
commercial satellite of England. During the Napoleonic period
Portugal united with Great Britain in fighting for the independence
PORTUGAL. 505
of Spain, and it was the base of the military operations by which
the J^rench were finally expelled from the Peninsula. After a long
series of contests between the Miguelites and the Liberals, Portugal
entered on a new era of comparative prosperity about the middle of
the 19th cent; but its recent financial difficulties have cast a
heavy shadow on its fair prospects.
There seems at first sight no adequate reason why Portugal alone
of all the once independent kingdoms of the Iberian Peninsula
should have succeeded in avoiding incorporation with the great
Castilian-Aragonese monarchy. Like Spain, Portugal consists
mainly of extensive plateaus, intersected by mountains and re-
sembling in character the plateau of Castile or the great pastures
of Estremadura. Its mountains are continuations of the Spanish
sierras. The Mountain Terrace of N, Portugal is connected directly
with the Gallclan hills, which are outliers of the Cantabrian range
(p. 2) j the mountain - range separating Leon from Castile is pro-
longed to the ocean by the Serra da Estrella (6540 ft.), or *Range of
the Star', the Montejvnto, and the Serra da Cintra; the mountains
of Algarve form the last link of the Sierra Morena. The only natural
frontier is formed by such short ranges as the Serra do Oerez on the
N. and the Serra de SdLo Mamede on the S. ; the rest of the boundary
between Spain and Portugal is wholly unprotected , and generally
follows the course of streams such as the Minho , the Dowro , the
Agueda, and the Torrffes, the Eljas, the Tagu8j and the Sever, the
Quadiana and the Chanoa,
The great central rivers of Spain, the Douro, the Tagus, and the
Guadiana , all three of which flow through Portugal to the ocean
and would seem to bind the two countries by indissoluble bonds,
are nowhere navigable beyond the Portuguese frontier. The first
does not become a real artery of traffic till below the dreaded rapids
of Cachdo at Torre de Moncorvo, while in the same way the com-
mercial usefulness of the Tagus and the Guadiana begins respectively
below the rapids of Portas de E6dSLo (Villa Velha de R6dao) and
Pulo do IMo ('wolfs leap'; Mertola). While the Spanish coast
rivers are nothing but dry ramblas (p. xxxviii) during a great part of
the year, Portugal possesses a number of small rivers , which are
always full of water and are in some cases navigable. Among these
may be mentioned the Lima, Cavado, and Tdmega in Minho ; the
Vouga, Mondegoj and Zizere in Beira; the Sado and Mir a in Alemtejo.
This important advantage Portugal owes to the moisture pro-
duced by the propinquity of the ocean. To Spain , most of which
faces the Mediterranean , it stands in much the same relation as
Norway to Sweden or Holland to Germany. As the mountainous
plateaus of Minho, Estremadura, and Alemtejo have an average
elevation of 600-1000 ft. above the sea, Portugal, indeed, can
hardly be described by the word 'lowlands'; but in comparison with
the double or treble height of the great central plateau of Spain,
506 PORTUGAL.
and in consideration of its slope towards the ocean and its nu-
merous harbours, it has the character of a lowland country to a lim-
ited degree. Its far-western situation also tends to promote voyages
of discovery and commerce with Transatlantic peoples.
No country has more natural variety than Portugal, none offers
a richer series of changing pictures. On the coast we are impressed
by the far-projecting promontories (cdbos) of naked rock and by the
ragged outlines of the islands. The lezirias of the Tagas and the
lagoons of Aveiro recall the marshes of Holland ; the huge dunes,
which threaten to bury the W. coast under sand, resemble the
*Landes' of S. France or the *Nehrungen' of E. Prussia. The moun-
tains of N. Portugal and the Serra da Estrella attain an almost Alpine
altitude ; the rich wine-district of the Douro, with its terraces toil-
somely wrung from the clayey soil, reproduces the rocky slopes of
the Rhine. The district of Entredouro e Minho skirts the ocean like
a great garden. The beautiful valley of the Tagus near Abrantes
recalls the Elbe at Dresden. Lisbon vies in beauty of position with
Naples. Coimbra, the Portuguese Athens, gazes down on the banks
of the Mondego, famous in history and song. Oporto sits In majesty
on the N. bank of the Douro.
In Vegetation Portugal is the most peculiar and the richest
land in Europe , and this vegetation is not divided into zones , as
in Andalusia, but spreads its varied garb over the whole surface.
Side by side grow the agave or century plant and the opuntia of
Mexico, the pine of the N. and the eucalyptus of Australia, the
eamelia-tree of Japan and the maple, the juniper, and the 'Portu-
guese' cypress (Cupresstu glauca or Lusitanica) f^om the mountains
of Qoa. Cork-trees, evergreen oaks, palms, poplars, limes, magno-
lias, and araucarias all flourish alike under the rays of a tropical
sun, tempered by the cool breath of the sea. A stroll through the
garden of the Crystal Palace at Oporto or through the Villa Mon-
serrate at Cintra reveals the charms of almost all the vegetable zones
of the globe.
Perhaps the native flora, from the rhododendrons of the Gerez Mts.
to the cistus-moors of Alemtejo, is still more interesting than the
exotic vegetation of the garden. If possible , the traveller should
visit Portugal in late spring, when the meadows both in the valleys
and on the mountains unfold their full luxuriance, when the oat
halms stand 6 ft. high before the formation of the ears, and when
the sides of the railway-embankments are covered with sedum (stone-
crop), honeysuckle , and wild roses. In the ditches blossoms the
-wdLter-lilY (Nymphaea o.Vba)^ on their edges the beautiful lady's thistle
(Carduus marianus) and foxglove (DigitaUs purpurea).
Among the most characteristic and singular features are the huge
moors of clstus (chamecasjj which will not be entirely novel to the
visitor from Spain. Seen firom a distance, they look like a dark
ocean, in the leafy waves of which the errant traveller might be sub-
PORTUGAL. 507
merged as amid the flower-prairies of Mexico. In the more high-
lying moora the charaeteristio variety is the gum-cistus (CUtua Icidani-
feru8)j -which expels all other vegetation and forms the regular
brushwood (matto) of Portugal. The shrubs are iVr^ ft. high and
grow extraordinarily close to one another; -when dry, they are used
as fuel and for charcoal-burning. The dark , highly polished, and
evergreen leaves are shaped like those of the oleander. The large
white flowers, each consisting of five petals 272-3 inches long, with
a spot of dark-purple at their lower ends, are wonderfully beautiful.
From both buds and leaves oozes a sweet-smelling gum, with which
the walker soon finds himself covered. In the lower parts of Alem-
tejo these cistus-wlldern esses are replaced by vast tracts of the most
varied heaths, such as the Erica atuttralis and Erica umbellata with
their beautiful red blossoms, and of the yellow - flowering cistus
(C. helimifoliua, tedantAiw, libanoUs). In the blossoming season
(April) these tracts, along with the rosemary, myrtle, and handsome
bulbous plants like the Atphodelus ramosuSj suggest the brilliant
carpet-beds of some Titanic garden.
AoBicuLTUBB and Fetjit Gbowino are naturally very prominent
in a country favoured by such a climate as that of Portugal. Wheat,
maize (milho groaso)^ millet/Panicum mitia^eumjj rye, lupin, oats, and
beans are cultivated throughout the whole country. There is scarcely
a tree that does not produce some edible fruit, from the sweet oak
(p. 277; Port, azinheira^ and the carob-tree (Ceratonia siliqua; Port.
alfarrohara) up to the olive, the vine, the orange, and the flg. The
charming variety of oranges. known as ^mandarins' are highly prized.
The flgs are brought to premature ripeneSs by the ancient process
called 'capriflcation' and have a wonderfully delicate flavour.
The Sea is not behind the land in fruitfulness. No flsh-market
in the world is richer than that of Lisbon. The tunny-flshing is an
important branch of industry in Algarve. The salt, procured in the
great salt-pans (marinhas) of Setubal, Aveiro, and tiie Tagus (near
Lisbon), is among the best in Europe.
Certain parts of Portugal show a high degree of Oultivation.
Such are the province of Minho , the districts round Lisbon and
Setubal, the vine-clad slopes of Estremadura and the Douro, and the
hilly plateau of Algarve, with its luxuriant N. African vegetation.
The greater part of the country, however, is very poorly cultivated.
Most of Alemtejo, which once rivalled Sicily as a granary of Rome,
has been allowed to fall out of cultivation and now forms an im-
mense pasture for sheep and pigs. The traveller may journey here
for hours without seeing a village, a house, a hut (padhota), or even
a man. The few oases of tillage, such as ELvas, Evora, and Beja,
serve but to heighten the general effect. In summer the shepherds
migrate to the Serra da Estrella, where their savage dogs protect the
flocks from the wolves. It is then that they prepare their excellent
little .cheeses (queijinhos) or the sweet requeij&o. The wool is used
508 PORTUGAL.
in the factories of Portalegre and Covilhi, vhich produce the material
for the long brown coats of the peasants, called Saraga^a Cloth,
because its eoloor resembles that of the plants of the Sargasso Sea in
the Atlantic Ocean. — The famous honey of Portugal is distilled
from the heaths of Alemtejo.
In the Inhabitants, originally of Iberian and Celtic stock, the
mixture of races is still very perceptible. In the S. the Moorish
type prevails, while the peasants of the N. mountains not in-
frequently suggest a Germanic element. The negroes and mulattoes
that are so numerous in Lisbon are a feature due to the extensive
colonial system of Portugal. — As a rule the Portuguese are modest
and courteous in their bearing, though they share the Spanish love
for magniloquence of phrase. They are, however, more humane than
the Spaniard , less bigoted in religious matters , and less excitable
and unruly in the political field. The haughty Spaniard often treats
the Portuguese as his butt, making him the comic person in his
comedies, the duped simpleton of his stories. The stranger, however,
will fail to see any good reason for this attitude. — Some survivals
of the picturesque costumes of a by - gone age are stUl preserved
among the country-people, such as the rich gold ornaments of the
peasant-women of Minho and* the valley of the Douro. The ox-
waggon is the usual vehicle of the peasant, often driven only by a
boy or girl with a long staff. The yoke is formed of a carved and
painted board named the Canga, The ear-splitting creaking of the
wheels is supposed to frighten off wolves and demons ; but in the
towns the axles have to be kept greased.
The comparative humanity of the Portuguese is especially noticeable
in the Bull Fights, which are much less gory than in Spain. As there,
the drama begins with the entree of the gaily dressed bull-fighters. The
Cavitlhetro (Span. Pieador)^ dressed in the old Portuguese court-dress with
a three-cornered hat, first exhibits the paces of the ancient Spanish man-
age, then begs from the PrwdeiUe da Prciga permission to begin the combat*
and finally salutes the public (as eortetiat do eavalMro). The procession
then leaves the ring, and the cavalheiro re-apptars alone, mounted on a
less showy steed. At the sound of a trumpet the bull, the horns of which
are guarded by leather *buttons% is allowed to enter the arena. The rider
en^ges him with a long lance (/arpa)^ while the Capinhoi^ so called
from the capa worn over the shoulder, and resembling the Spanish Banderil-
Urot in their dress, tease him with their gaily-coloured cloaks and when
necessary protect the horse and rider. After the cavalheiro has left the
ring, the capinhas continue the combat with shorter lances (handarilhM).
Sometimes the killing of the bull is then simulated by an Etpada with a
wooden sword. When the bull is somewhat exhausted comes the turn of
the MofoM de Forcado, men with round hats and thickly-padded leather
breeches, whose function it is to face the bull, and leap from in front
between his horns. Serious injuries are by no means unknown in this
part of the sport. Finally the bull is led from the ring by trained oxen.
The most characteristic industry of Portugal, inherited from the Moors
and still practised with success in Lisbon and Oporto, is the manufacture
of Porcelain Tiles (asulejon, p. xxxyiii), with which the walls of houses,
and even of churches, are adorned both within and without. At first these
tiles were used in ribbon-like patterns similar to those of Oranada and
Seville, but a freer use of Renaissance forms was developed in the i6thcent.,
'hile in the 17-l8th cent, regular mosaic pictures came into vogue.
509
54. From Badajoz to Lisbon vi& Torre das Vargens
and Entroncamento.
.180 M. Railway (two trains daily) in 11-12 hrs. (fares 5570, 4480, 3210 ra.)-
Luggage is examined and money may be changed at Eloa* (in the reverse
direction at Badajoz, p. 457). Our line unites with that from Upper Es-
tremadura (&. 47; carriages changed) at Torre dot Vcargent (p. 510), and
with that from Oporto and Pampilhosa (JR.. 61) at Entroncamento (p. 511;
carriages changed). — There is a railway-restaurant at Entroncamento, and
huffets at Bivat, PortcHegre, Torre doe Vargem^ and Ahrxxntes.
On this journey every traveller will be struck by the contrast between
the dry climate of the central Spanish plateau and the moist, oceanic
climate of Portugal. This is perceptible even at Elvas, but still more as
we pass from the highlands of Alemtejo into the smiling valley of the
TagHS. The Tagus forms a marshy delta in its lower course before enter-
ing the spacious Bay of Lisbon. — From Abrantes to Praia (p. 511) the
best views are to the right, beyond that to the left.
Badajoz, see p. 457. — The train runs to the W. over the
treeless plain of the Ouadiana and crosses (4V2M.) the frontier brook
of Caiaf which descends from the Serra de 8do Mamede to the N.W.
IOV2 M. Elvag (Hot Central; Hot. Elvense), the Balesh of the
Moors and the Yelvea of the Spaniards, is a town of 10,500 inhab.,
finely situated on a mountain^side, dominated by Fort Santa Lucia
(1200 ft.) on the S. and ^ortiVossavScnftora do G'rapa (see below) on the
N. Elvas was taken from the Moors by Leon in 1166, and by the Portu-
guese in 1200 and 1226. It has been the see of a bishop since 1570
and the strongest fortress of Portugal since 1642. The Spaniards
besieged it in vain in 1658 and 1711. The groves of olives and
oranges show that we have left behind us the barren plains of
Spanish Estremadura. «« The "'Aqubducto da Amobeiba, begun
in the beginning of the 15th cent, and completed in 1622, brings
the town an excellent supply of water from a point about 4 M, to
the W.; part of it has four tiers of arches, 120 ft. high. — The Sb,
or cathedral, founded by King Emmanuel I. (1495-1521) , is ap-
proached by a lofty flight of steps. The late-Gothic interior contains
some fine stained glass and an Assumption by Lourtn^o Qrameira.
In the chapter-room are some paintings by Antonio de Sequevra^ a
native of Elvas (1768-1837). — The church of the former Convento
das Freiras de Sao Domingos {founded ca. 1550) is an octagonal
structure with rich but sadly dilapidated Renaissance decoration.
Traversing the Rua de SSo Vicente and crossing the Seto, we
ascend rapidly to the N. to the Fobtb de Gbaca (1270 ft.), also
known as the Forte de Lippe, from the Qran Conde William of
Schaumburg^Lippej commander of the Portuguese army in 1762-64.
This fort, with its large casemates, is the real citadel of Elvas*,
beneath its chapel is a cistern , 23 ft. deep , fed from the above-
mentioned aqueduct. The ramparts command a fine view of Alem-
tejo with the Ossa to the W. and the Serra de Sio Mamede to the
N.; Badajoz and Spanish Estremadura are also distinctly visible.
A highroad leads to the :N,E. from Elvas to (10 M.) Campo Kaior
famous for the siege by Marshal MoiHier in 1811 and its relief by Lor
510 RouU64, PORTALKORE. From Badajo%
Mmr^ord, The erent if celebrated by Sir Walter Seott in bis spirited
ballad, beginning ^To Campo Maior come^ be bad quietly sat down**.
The train ascends to the N.W., under Fort Lippe and passing
many attractive country- villas , to the bleak plateau of Alemtejo.
Granite and slate alternate here as in Spanish Estremadura ; the
blocks often lie one above another as in dolmens, surrounded by
scanty patches of rye. To the £. the eye travels far over Spain.
Farther on appear sweet-acorned oaks and venerable cork-trees. —
23 M. Santa EuUdia, — 35 M. Assumar, the Ad BepUm Aras of the
Romans, Is the station for Arronehes (970 ft.), the Roman Ptagiaria^
a once important Moorish fortress, 2 M. to the £., which played a
prominent part in the wars between Spain and Portugal. Assumar
is about 390 ft. above Elvas. To the N. is the Serra de Porialegre,
with the Serra de Sdo Mamede beyond it.
41 M. Portalegre, the station for the provincial capital of that
name (10,700 inhab.), which lies Vl^ M. to the S., at the foot of a
hill. It is the old Roman Amoea^ and has been the see of a bishop
since 1550.
From Portalegre good Roads lead to the IS. to Castello de Vide (p. 45i)
and Marvao (p. 451). -- On the Sever (p. 461), about 5 M. to tbe N.E.,
lies Arameaha^ the ancient Uedolbriga. This district was thickly populated
in antiquity, and numerous Roman and Celtic objects have been found
here, as at ArroiK^ee (see above), Ltzeviio^ and other places.
The train descends to the W. into the valley of the Stdu. —
52 M. Orato, on the Ervedal^ 2 M. to the N. of the railway, was
once the seat of the Or&o Friorado de Crato , a powerful order of
chivalry, founded in 1118 with the same rules as the Knights of
Malta. Its territory was 60 M. long and 30 M. wide. The Grand
Prior was always a prince of the royal house; and in 1551 the order
was absorbed by the crown (comp. p. 561). Nossa Senhora Flor da
Rosa, the dilapidated castle of the order, lies about 1 M. to the N.
of the town and was built by the first prior, Frey Alvaro Oon^cdves
PereUra^ father of the celebrated Nuno Alvares Pereira (p. 555).
From Crato a DiLxasNCB runs to the N. daily to Alpalhao. Niza. and
Villa Veiha de RddSo (p. 511).
Farther on we cross the Seda. Corn-fields alternate with tracts
of broom and cistus. 61 M. CVianpa. — 67 M. Torre das Vargens
(Buffet) is the junction of the line from Upper Estremadura (R. 47).
We now reach the valley of the Sdr, The scenery becomes more
attractive and the flora richer. The blossoms . of the cistus and the
heaths form a charming picture in spring. Near (74 M.) Ponte de
86r the train crosses the river. Fig-trees, aloes, and fields of rice
begin to appear. The line runs to the N.W. across the low ridge
separating the valley of the S6r from that of the Tagus. Beyond
(85 M.) Bemposta, the first station in Portuguese Estremadura , we
follow the course of the Torto, The heights to the left are the Oemas
de Ourenij a dreary plateau with several small crater-like lakes.
93 M. Abrantes (Hospedaria^ primitive), a town of 6400 inhab.,
is picturesquely situated I74 M. to the N.E. of the station, high up
to Lisbon. ABRANTES. 54. Route. 511
on the N. bank of the TaguSy which is already navigable beie and
crossed by a long iron bridge. The most interesting buildings are
the church of Sdo Vicente and the Castle (view). The French Gen.
Marshal Junot received the title of Due de Abrantes in recognition
of his triumphant march from Salamanca to Lisbon vill Abrantes
in 1807.
Fbom Absantks to Guarda, 132 U., railway (two trains daily) in 8V4-
9V4 hrs. (fares 4230, 3290, 2350 rs.). This line traverses a very pretty connlry.
— Tlie train crosses the Tagus by a long iron bridge and then ascends
on its right bank, towards the B., traversing many viaducts and solid
embankments. To the right of (40 M.) Vitta Velha d4 Rddao are the *Portat
d€ RddiXo^ a boiling rapid where the river is confined between two walls
of rock, only 150 ft. apart. — The train now quits the Tagus and ascends
to the N.E. 50 U. Samadas. — 58 M. OaateUo Branco (1575 ft.)i the chief
town of a district (7500 inhab.) and the see of a bishop, was the ancient
Ccutraleu€U* and possesses some Roman remains, old walls, and a decayed
castle. Near the town are some marble quarries. — In the foreground,
farther on, appears the Serra Ouardunha (4015 ft.)t the E. spurs of which
the railway intersects beyond (82 H.) Vcdle de Prazeres. 92 M. Fuvdao,
on the N. edge of the mountains. — The train enters the fruitful valley of
the Zdzere, crosses its feeder the Meimffa, and then the main stream itself.
103 U. Covilhi (2180 ft. ; H6t. Covilhanense), a prosperous town of 10,800 inhab.,
finely situated on the S.E. slope of the granitic Berra da EsireUa (6540 ft.)
and commanded by an old castle. It has several cloth-factories. — We
again cross the Z^zere and ascend through a wild, mountainous district to
(132 M.) Oitarda (p. 573).
Beyond Abrantes the train descends along the S. (left) bank of
the Tagus, the N. bank of which is covered with olives. — 95 M.
TramagaL We run through pine-woods and between hedges of
aloe, then over tilled ground and rice-flelds. The Tagus is crossed
by an iron •Bridge, 72 ft. above the surface of the water and having
16 arches of 98 ft. span. — At (102 M.) Ftotia we have a fine view
of the town of Constancia (65 ft.), lying on the N. bank of the Tagus
at the mouth of the Zizere (see above). The line runs just above
the Tagus, in which, near the right bank, lies a small rocky islet with
the castle of Almour6l. — At (104 M.) Tancos is a favourite manceuv-
ring ground for the Portuguese troops.
From Tancos or Barquinha (see below) a visit may be paid to the
legendary ruin of Almoorol. This castle, founded by GuakUm Pae$ (p. 561)
on Roman and Moorish foundations in 1160, consists of eleven towers
connected with one another and dominated by the Torre de Menagem
(provision tower). The gate was formerly on the 8. side, but we now
enter by a breach in the N. wall.
At (107 M.) Barqvxitha the valley of the Tagus expands into a
wide littoral plain, probably at one time an arm of the sea.
109 V2 M. Entroncamento (•J?a«. Restaurant, de'j. 500, D. 600 rs.,
both incl. wine) is the junction of the line from Oporto. Passengers
for Lisbon change carriages here, and will find their train on the
other side of the station.
From Entroncamento to Coinibra^ Pampilhosa, and Oporto, see R. 61.
The train to Lisbon skirts the attractive hill-district of Portu-
guese Estremadnra (right), generally at some distance from the
Tagus. We cross several streams, the lower oourses of which havf
b\2 RofUeSd. SANTARRM. From Badajoz
been canalized. — 112 M. Torres Novas; 117*/2 M. llfaito de Mi-
randa, among woods of cork-trees. To the left, in a wine-growing
district, lies the small town of OoUegd. — We now cross the Al-
vUUa (p. 630). 124 M. VaUe de FiguHra. The exuberantly fertile
plain is celebrated by Gamoens in the ^Lusiads' (IV. 23).
129 M. Bantarem (H6t. da Felicia), the Roman Scalabis or Prae-
sidium JuUum, is now a district-capital with 9800inhab., finely
situated high above the Tagus, which is here spanned by a trellis-
work bridge with eight openings (view).
Bantarem derives its name from iBanta Ma ot Irene, whose martyred
body floated miraealonsly to this spot from Thomar (p. 561), down tbe
Nabao, Ze'zere, and Tagas (SOth Oct., 653). As tbe key of the Tagus, the
town plays an important rdle In Portugnese history. It was taken from
the Moors, after a aeries of hard-fought contesio, by Alfonio VI. of Castile
in 1093 and again by Affonso Eenriques in 1147. The Almohades nnder
Abu Tcfkuh YHsu/ made a desperate effort to retake it in 1184, bnt tbe
attempt was frustrated by the Ir\fante Dom Saneho, and the caliph him-
self was mortally wounded. In 1838 Santarem was vigorously defended
by the Migaelites. Since this period it has no longer been maintained as a
fortress, but it did not receive a municipal charter till 1870. — Prince
Affonso, the only son of John II., was drowned here in the Tagns, at the
age of sixteen, on July 13th, 1491, as he was riding to meet his father;
and his unlucky fate is the burden of several Portuguese national songs.
Almost nothing now remains of the old town- walls or of the
castle of AUafova. — The most interesting buildings are the church
of Santa IrCa, the tutelar of the town ; the late-Oothic church of the
Convenio de OroQa, with fine mural tiles of the 18th cent., the
graceful Renaissance monument of the Count of Ourem, and the
tomb of Pedro Alvares Oabral (d. ca. 1626; p. 604); the church
Do Milagro, in an early-Renaissance style; the chapel of the widely
venerated Santa Rita, with a picture of the saint by Ignacio Xavier
(b. at Santarem in 1724); the church of Santa Maria de MarviUa,
built in 1244, but with later additions by King Emmanuel ; the secu-
larized church of San Francisco, dating from the 13th cent., with a
crucifix presented by John I. (to the left of the entrance) and inter-
esting cloisters. — The old church of S&o Jod»o do AlporSo, with a
Moorish minaret (Alminar), now contains an Archaeological Mu-
seum, — The Priests' Seminary is the most frequented In Portugal.
In front of it Pedro Coelho and Alvaro Gonzalez, the murderers of
Inez de Castro (p. 671), were tortured to death before the eyes
of Peter I.
The village of Almeirim, on the left bank of the Tagus. to the S.W.
of Santarem, was long one of the royal summer-residences before its almost
total destruction by the earthquake of 1755. The ^Cardinal Kins'* Henry
abdicated here in 1580.
The trees in this lower plain of the Tagus all bend towards tbe
S.E., since the N.W. wind prevails eleven months out of twelve. On
the river may be perceived a few small sailing vessels, which can
ascend to Santarem with the flowing tide. The fishing-boats use
the Canal (1848) to the left of the railway, which ends at Azam-
buja. — The small stations of (137 M.) Sant' Anna and (141 V2 M.)
to Lisbon. ALEMQUER. 54. Route, 513
Ponte de Reguengo serve the wine-growing district to the N.W., of
whith Cartavo is the focus. The pine-woods of (146 M.) Azam-
buja provide Lisbon with timber. — 153 M. Carregado is also the
station for Villa Nova da Ramha.
From Cabrrgado to Caldas da Rainha, 36 M., diligence in 5 hrs. —
The good road leaves the Tagus valley at (2V2 M.) the village of Carregado
and ascends to theN.W. to the fruitful hill- district of Estremadura, with its
vines, olives, and mulherries. — 71/2 M. Alemquer, the Jerabrica of Strabo,
was rebuilt by the Alans in 418 under the name of Alanokerkae and was
wrested from the Moors in 1148, along with Obidos and Torrea Vedras, It
is now a town of 4400 inhab., charmingly situated on the brook of its
own name and possessing several cloth and paper mills. On the height
to the left is the church of Varzea, containing the tomb of DamiSo de Ooes
(1501-71), the statesman, historian, and friend of Erasmus, who fell a
victim to the Inquisition. To the right, also on the hill, are the remains
of the old Castle (13th cent.)- To the W. of Alemquer lies the old convent
of Camota, now private property, with twelve marble columns captured
at Ceuta in 1411. — At the highest point of the road (ca. 330 ft.) we enjoy
a fine retrospect of the plain of the -Tagus. We then descend, generally
following the new Lisbon aqueduct (p. 530), into a barren region over-
grown with cistufl. At (101/2 M.) Ota the road begins to re-ascend. To
the left rises the Montejttnto (p. 551). We then traverse an attractive hilly
district to the N.W., with views extending to Cape Carvoeiro and the
Berlengas (p. 551). 21 M. Cercai; 27Vz M. Casal de Carreiros. — 35 M.
Caldas da Rainha, see p. 551.
Farther on the train passes the old town of Castanheira and the
village of Povos, with the ruinfl of a palace of the Counts of Castan-
heira and a Moorish chapel. — 156 M. Villa Franca de Xira^ a town
with 4200 inhab., founded by the French In the reign of Affonso
Henriques. Henceforth we see many fenced-in salt-pans (marinhas)
on the bank of the Tagus. Farther on are the LezirCas, a marshy
district between the Tagus and the 8orraia^ protected by embank-
ments against floods, intersected by canals, and bearing large crops
of grain. — 159 M. Alhandra^ the birthplace of Affonso de Atbu-
querque (p. 504), with a church (on a hill to the left), which is much
visited on the Festival of St. John. Near Alhandra are the grazing
grounds of the bulls bred for the ring. The Forte de Sao Vicente^
on a hill to the left, once formed the extremity of the famous Lines
of Torres Vedras (p. 551).
Below Alhandra the Tagus forms three Islands, the Mouchaos
d' Alhandra., de Lomho do Tejo, and da Povoa^ and gradually widens
into the * Bay of Liabon^ an e:xpanse of salt-water, 18 M. long and
2 V2-8 M. broad (comp. the Map at p. 539). — To the N.W. of (162 M.)
Alverca lies the battlefield of Alfarrobeira^ where Peter, Duke of
Coimhia (p. 558), was defeated and slain in 1449 by his nephew,
Affonso V. — 166 M. Povoa ; 170 M. Sacavem., attractively situated
at the mouth of the river of that name, descending from the valley
of Vnhos. On the E. side of the bay lie Alcochete and Aldea OaUega.
The scenery increases in beauty. 172 M. Olivaes; 174 M, Bra^o
de Prata^ with the warehouses of the Lisbon merchants.
The main line, from which a branch here diverges for the E.
Station (Esta^ao Caes doa Soldados; see p. 514)^ now turns inlan-'
Baedekee"^ Spain and Portugal. 33
514 Route 55. LISBON. Hotels. I
fW.), crosBM the CheUas^p, 519), and sweeps round Ldsboa Orientai
p. 518). — 178 M. OftmpoUde, in the valley of the Alcantara, is
the jnnctlon of the railways to Gintra (R. 56 d) and Mafra-Xteiria,
(R. 59). To the right we have a good view of the old aqaedact of
Lisbon (p. 525). — We penetrate a tannel IV2 M. long (5-6 min.)
and then descend to the S.E. to the Central Station of —
180 M. Uabon (see below).
55. Lisbon.^
Railway Stations. 1. EstafSo CentrcU (PI. F, 8; no restaavant) or
LUboa Bodo, Boa do Principe, a little to the K.W. of the Bocio, for the
linea to Spanish Estremadura (BB. 54, 47), Pampilhosa and Oi>orto (B- 61),
Cintra (B. 56 d). and Mafra and Leiria (B. 69). The departure-platform is
on the third floor (lift 10 rs.). Luggage ig examined on arrival by the
officers of the octroi (eontumo). A porter (mofo; 100 rs.) looks after the
lavage and secures a cab (trem; fare for 1-2 pers. with luggage 4CX) rs.,
3-4 pers. 600 ra.( comp. p. 515; a distinct bargain should at once be made).
The tramway (p. 6I0; Ko. 1) may be used by travellers without luggage
proceeding to the Hotel Central. — 2. Bttafao <U Santa ApoloiUa (PI. I, 4)
or Lisboa Gaet dos Soldados^ a secondary station for the lines to Spanish
Estremadura (BB. 64, 47) and Oporto (B. 61), of little significance to
tonri.sts. — 3. Etta^o Caei do Sodr€ (PI. D, 5) and (4) BstafSo StnUot
(PI. G, D,4), for the line to Estoril and Gascaes (B. 56 c). — 5. BttofSo do
Barrtiro, on the 8- side of the bay, for the trains to Palmella, Setobal,
EvSra, Algarve, and other places in S. Portugal. The ferry starts from
the Praca do Gommercio (Pi. F, 6; comp. p. 516). — Office of the Inter-
national Bleeping Carriage Co. (Companhia Internacional dos Wagons-Lits
do Grandes Expresses Europeus), Bua do Principe.
Arrival by Bea. Most of the large sea-going steamers (p. 516) anchor
in the Tagus considerably below the town, and passengers are' landed by
small boat (bote). There is no tariff for the boatmen, who usually demand
1 milreis to land a single traveller and his baggage; it is therefore
desirable for several passengers to club together and agree upon a rate
of about 600 rs. per head. If the ship is crowded, better terms may be
obtained by waiting until the first rush is over. It should be distinctly
understood that the fare includes the transport of luggage to the custom-
house (p. 520) and the hotel, otherwise the traveller will have to hire
other porters or a cab on landing. The custom-house is open till sunset;
travellers arriving in the evening must remain on board till the next
morning. — If the steamer hails from a port suspected of yellow fever
(/«6r« amarella) or cholera (porto inficionado ou iuspecto)^ passengers are
quarantined in the Latareio (p. 640), where there is a fixed tariff for board,
lodging, and so on. — For the Permit necessary in leaving Lisbon by
sea, see n. 503.
HotMs (comp. p. 502; a bargain should be struck at once). ^Avenida
Palace (PI. a, P 3: formerly Intemationat)^ Bua do Principe, corner of
the Avenida da Liberdade, conveniently situated close to the Gentral
f The Pra9a de Dom Pedro or Bocfo (PI. F, 4; p. 521) is the chief
centre of traffic. A knowledge of the following expressions will be found
useful : alameda^ avenida^ pasteiOj promenade ; alto, altinhOy hill ; azinhaga,
footpath; beco, blind alley; boqveirSOy narrow street leading to the Tagus ;
COM, quay; cdtgada^ ealfodinha, steep street; ceunpo, square; carreirOj ear-
reirinlMj road; eecadinha^ staircase; eairada^ highroad; junc^o, connecting
passage; largo, small square; pdteo, court; pra^a, square; rtM, street;
traversa^ cross-street; cereal, walled enclosure of a convent or the like;
horta, garden-land (Span. huerta)\ Jardim, pleasure-garden; pomar, orchard;
quinta (Arab, kint), garden of a villa or country-house; quintc^y vegetable
garden; tapada, park.
^rmwr
§i^S:f^lmmi\mrimL
O^
LI SiOA
1:15.000
aoo ♦oo
mSSPHeirw
. Jflevadores e Trantrias
K
Wagner A; Drbrs. licipzig
Cabs.
MSBON.
55. Route, 515
Station, with lift, well fitted up and charges to correspond (no view of
the bay)i •Hotel Buagan^a (PI. b; B, 5), Eua Victor Cordon, in a high
position with a gf od view, much frequented by the English, dej. 750, D.
10 0, pens, from *(X)Ors., wine extra; •Gkand H6tel Centbal (PL c; E, 5),
on the Caes de Sodrd, with view, lift, and baths, patronized by the Ger-
mans, L. 2(X), A. 200, d^j. 750, pens, from 1800 rs., wine extra. — Less
pretending: Hot. Allian^a (PI. d; F, 4), Rua Nova de Trindade, cqt. of
the Rua Garrett: Hot. Bobges (PI. e; F, 4), Rua Garrett 108; Hot. Dubano,
Bna das Flores 71 (PI. E, 4), an English family hotel in a quiet situation,
pens, from 15(X) rs. ; H6t. de l'Eobopb, Rua do Garmo 16 (PI. F, 4), pens.
1500 rs. ; Fbancfobt Hotel (PI. f; F, 4), Praja Dom Pedro 113 ; H6t. Con-
tinental (PI. g; F, 3), Largo de Sao Domingo 14, pens, from 1(XX) rs.
Beataurants. Bettaurant Chtb.'RnA Serpa Pinto 52; Cafi Montanha., see
below; Re$tavrani Le&o ctOuro, Kua do Principe 69; Cc^fi Electrico^ Rua
Sao Juliao 72.
Oafea (must of them poorly equipped). '*AveHida Palace (p. 514), at
the Central Station; "^jlfcmtanAa, Travessa da Assumpcao (PI. F, 4); Awea
e Peninsular, RuaAurea 189; Suisto, Largo de Camoes 7; Martinho^ Largo
de Camoes and Praca do Commercio. Luncheon dishes, eggs, beefsteaks
(bi/e)y and the like may be obtained at most caf^s. — Oonfeetloners (Con-
feiterias). Pvcci, VioleUe, Rua de El Rey 120 and 182; Wilmantky, Rua de
Sao Nicolau.
Beer Houaea. CerveJariaTrindade, Rua Nova da Trindade 110; Jamen't
Bayrische Bierhalle, Rua do Alecrim 30, with a side-entrance in the Rua
Antonio Maria Cardoso, near the Hdt. Braganca ; UniiiQ Industrial Lisbonen^,
Praca Dom Pedro 64.
Tobacco. Battler, Rua de Sao Nicolau 110 and Rua Aurea 45; Phoenix^
in the Avenida Palace (see above); Tcibaearia Americana, Casa^Havaneza^
Rua Garrett 44 and 130.
Post Office iCorreiof comp. p. xix). The head postal and telegraph
office (PL P, 5) is in the Prafa do Commercio, at the corner of the Rua
do Arsenal. There are also numerous branch-offices (Eita0e» AuxHiares).
Oabs ( Trens de Praga) stand in the principal squares ; they are elegant
vehicles with two horses for 2 and 4 pers., but the tariff is high. On getting
in, the hirer should demand a ticket (tetijia) from the driyer (cocheiro),
and if necessary also the tariff (t<a>ella). ^mpedido'' means engaged.
Per drive (por corrida) .
Per hour (d» horas) . .
Two hours
Three hours
Four hours
The boundary of the old town (see p. 518) is the Esirada da Circum-
vallajao, including the station of Alcantara-Mar (p. 540). The limits of
the suburbs are Cruz de Pedra on the E. and Alges on the W. After the
first hour each V4 hr. is reckoned separately. If the cab be dismissed
outside the old town, the driver is entitled to a return-fare. At night
(1 a.m. till sunrise) the fares are doubled. Luggage up to 66 lbs. free,
under 110 lbs. 200 rs., over 110 lbs. 400 rs.
Flya (Trens deAluffuir), with good equipments and horses, are supplied
for drives to the theatre, into the country, and so on by the Companhia de
CatTuoffens Lisbonense, Largo de Sao Roque, at a fixed tariff. These car-
riages may also be ordered at the hotels and ciab-stands.
The Inclined Railways (Elevadores) are a great conyenience. At present
there exist the following lines.
1. From the Cal^ada da Lavra (PI. F, 3) to the Travessa do Convento
de Sant" Anna, on the E. side of the Avenida da Liberdade. Fare 20 rs.
2. From the Cal^ada da Gloria to the Rua de Sao Pedro de Alcantara
(PI. F, 3), on the W. side of the Av. da Liberdade ; 90 rs.
3. From the Rua da Palma (PI. G, 3) to the Largo da Graca (PI. H, 3, 4);
up 40, down 20, up and down 60 ra.
33*
In the old town
1 To the suburbs
1-2 pers.
3-4 pers.
-500 rs.
1-2 pers.
3-4 pers.
400 rs.
600 rs.
700 rs.
600 „
700 „
1000 „
1200 „
1200 I
1400 I
1200 I
1400 I
1500 „
1800 „
1500-
1800 I
1800 I
2200 „
1800 :
2200 :
516 RouU56. LISBON. JBatks.
4. From the Pra^a de CamSea (PI. E, 4) to S»o Ben to (PI. I>, 3) and
Iho Largo da Estn-lla (PI. i\ 2, 3); fare BOw., to Sao Bento 20 rs. This
'elevator* also dtopst at the interjection with No. 6.
6. From the Calcada da Bica (Rua de Sao Paulo) to the Rua da Bica
de Duarte Bello (PI. E, 4)-, 20 rs., transfer ^SSo-Paulo-Estrella'* 50rs.
Tnuawayt (Carri* de Ferro) are numerous. The chief lines are : —
1. Main lino along the Tapis from the Rua CtMnrinhoa de Ferro (TI. I,
H, 4) by the Pra^a do Commercio (PI. F, 5), or from the EoHo (PI. F, 4)
by the Largo do Municipio (PL F, 5), to the Largo do Corpo Santo (PI. E, 5);
thence by the Lar^^o do Conde BarSo (PL D, 4) and the Largo de Santos
(PI. C. 4) to Alcantara (p. 634), and on to Bdem (p. 535), Pedrou^^o* (p. 540),
and Alaet (p. 540). Some cars run to Alcantara vial the Bua Vinte e Qnatro
de .Tulho, passing the Eita^ao Cau do Sodri and the Eti. de Santo* (p. 514;
outer line, comp. p. 634).
2. From the Largo de Conde Bardo (PI. D, 4) by the Rua de Sao Bento,
the Largo do Rato (PI. D, 1), the Largo do Principe Real (PL E, 3;, and the
Rua do Alecrim (PI. F, 2, 3) to the Rocio (PL F, 4).
3. From the Rodo (PL F, 4) or the (kOfoda da Lavra (PL F, 3; see
p. 515) by the Largo do Intendente (Pl.G, 2), Gampo Pequeno (bull-ring;
p. 539), and Campo Grande to Lumfar (p. 589).
Fare (prefo de pcutagem) within the town 80-50 r?. ; to Belem f 0 (there
and I tack 80), to Campo Grande 80. to Lumiar 100 rR.
BtMunen (comp. p. xyii). HeUl lAne^ once weekly to London in the
one direction and to Gibraltar, Malaga, and Cadis in the other (agents:,
£. Pinto Basto k Co., Caes do Sodr^ 64); Oldenburg and Portugnete Steam
Packet Co.^ once weekly to Oporto, Brake, and Hamburg, and once a month
to Tangier; Neptune^ to Oporto, Antwerp, and Bremen; Oerman East Africa
Line, to Naples, PortSa<^id, Dar-es-Salaam, DelagoaBay, and NataL also to
Hamburg; Royal Mail Steam Packet Co. (agents, James Rawes A Ck)., Rua
dos Capellistas 31), Pacific Steam Navigation Co. (agents, Basto & Co., see
above) , the Hamburg A Sovih American Steam Packet Co. (agent, E. George,
Rua Bella da Rainha 8), and the Chargewi Ritinii (agent, F. Garay, Largo
do Municipio 19), all for 8. America; Empreza Nadonat de NavegagOo, for
Madeira and W. Africa. — Local Btaamerg (Vaporos Lisbonente*) ply on
the Tagus from the Caee do Sodri (PL E, 5) to Cacithae (p. 540; every
40 min. ; fare 50 rs.) and from the Pro fa do Commereio (PL F, 5) to BarrHro
(p. 516; almost hourly; there and back 200 rs.).
Baths (Bahhos). Warm Baths at the Hdtel Central (p. 515) and at Rua
Nova de SSo Dom'ngos 22 (price 400-COO rf?.). — Alkaline - Saline Bath:?:
Alca^arias do Duqve, Aka^arias de Santa Clara, Rua do Terreiro do Trigo 56
and 64, — Several sulphur-springs rise within the town-limits and are
used at the Ban?ios do Arsenal de Marinha or de SHo Pavlo^ Beco do Carvalho 8,
and elsewhere. — Sea Bathing may be enjoyed at the CJutlet Balnear, Caes
do Sodre, and also at Ettoril, Ccucaee, and the other resorts mentioned r.t
pp. 540, oil. During the bathing sea<^on (estagao dos banhot; Aug. 15th
to Oct. 31st) thousands of Lisboners visit these places every. day. In the
vicinity of the town the water of the Tagus is not very clean.
Phyaioiana. Curry Cdbral, Rua Eduardo Coelho 1; Mattos Chaves, Rua
Capello 6; Lahmeyer, Rua de Santissima Trindade 56; Oodinho, Rua Gar-
rett 62. — DrugrgUta (Pkarmdcias). Azevedo, Estado, Praja Dom Pedro 31
and 59.
Booksellers (Livrarias). Lewtas, Rua do Carmo 26 (English books); M.
Gomes., Rua Garrett 70; Ferin., Rua Hova do Almada. — Photographs.
Rocchini (Italian), TravesFa da Agua de Flor 1 (2nd floor), excellent views
of Lisbon, Coimbra, Alcoba§a, Batalha, etc. ; Camacho, Rua Nova do Al-
mada 116.
The Shops generally contain foreign goods (comp. p. xxiii). The Portu-
guese Louga Ware, a kind of majolica, often very artistically coloured, is
sold by A. J. Oongalves, Rua dos Romulares 16; Drummond Castle, Pracs
dos Restauradores 57 ; Armcusem Caldense, Rua dos Sapateiros 104; Machado
& Co., Rua do Arsenal 126.
Theatres, LISBON. 55. Route. 5 1 7
Bankers. London A Brazilian Bank Ltd.^ Banco Liriw* « Azores ^ Marx,
Weifutein. & Co., Ru» de El Rey Ce, 158, and 49; Credito Franco-Portvgwz,
Rua da Conceioao 92.
Oooda Agenta. E. George, Rua Bella da Rainha 8; F. Qanxg, I.argo do
Municipio 19; Miguel Stockier (for Spain), Rua dos Bacalhoeiros 80.
Embasaies. Great Britain, Rua de Sao Francisico de Borja 63 (Sir H.
G. MacDonell, K.C.M.G., O.B.). United States of America (Son, Laurence
Toumsend).
Ooniulatea. Great Britain, Frank H. Cowper. United States of America,
John B. Wilbor.
English Church, beside the English Cemetery (PI. C, 2); chaplain,
Beo. Canon Dodt, D. D. — Seottish Free Ohuroh, Rua das Janellas Verdas
(PL C, 4) i minister. Rev. R. Stewart.
Theatres. In the larger theatres performances take place in winter
only (end of Oct. to March). The equipment and prices are similar to
those of Madrid. Frisa$ are fitage boxes \ eamarotea, boxes (de primeira,
tegunda, or terceira ordem); cadeiras, parquet or stalls; platia geral, pit or
paiterre. — *Real Theatro de Sdo Carlos (PI. E, F, 4, 5), Largo deSao Carlos,
a large and sumptuous edifice, built by Jot4 de Costa in 1792-93 after the
model of the Scala of Milan, for Italian opera and ballet. Over the vesti*
bule is a concert-hall. During the carnival the stage and auditorium are
converted into a vast ball-room. Frisas 10,000, camarotes 4000-12,000, ca-
deiras 1500, platea geral 12C0 rs. — "Real Theatro de Dona Maria Segun da
fPl. F, 3), Praca de Dom Pedro, built in 1842-46 by Fortunato Lodi^ for
Portuguese dramas and comedies; prices about 60 per cent lower than
the above (cadeiras 800 rs.). — Theatro da Trirtdade (PL F, 4), Rua da Trin-
dade (1867), for comedies and operettas; cadeiras BOO rs. — TJteatro de
Bona Amelia (PL E, F, 4, 5), Rua Antonio Maria Cardoso, alternating per-
formances of Spanish, Italian, and French comedies and operett; s.
Circuses. Coliseu dos Recreiot (PI. F, 3), Rua de Santo Antao, cadeiras
600 rs. ; Real Coliseu de Lisboa (PL G, 8), Rua da Palma.
Bull Ring {Praga dos Touros; to the N. of PL G, 1), Praca do Campo
Peqneno, on tramwi-^y-line No. 3 fp. 616). Bull-fights (p. EOS) are held, in
summer only (Apr.-Sept.), on Sun. at 4 p.m. and often on Thurs. also.
Street Scenes. The habits of the people may be best observed on the
Caes das Columnas, the Caes do Sodri. and other places adjoining the river,
and in the early morning at the Markets (pp. 621, 534). The principal
resorts of the fashionable world (especially on Thurs. and San.) are the
Rua de Garret, the Rua do Carmo and Rua Nova do Almada (both descend-
ing to the Baixa, p. 5lS), the Rva Avrea, the Frafa de Dom Pedro, and
the Avenida da Liberdade. The Aterro (p. 5i54) and the Pfaga do Commercio
are also much frequented on summer-evenings. Campo Grande^ see p. 539.
Diary. The Churches are open 7-10 a.m., the Cathedral till 1 p.m.
Archivo Oeral do RHno (p. 527), daily, 9-2 ; ^permissao' obtained to the left
of the main entrance.
BU>liotheca da Academia Real das Sciencias (p. 627)i on week-days, 10-3.
Botanical Garden of the Potptechnic (p. 526), daily; free.
Mae d'Agua (p. 525), daily; for a gratuity.
Museu Archeologico fp. 522), daily, 10-4 ; 100 rs.
— de Artilheria (p. o30), daily ; free.
— Colonial (p. 524), Wed., 10 8; free.
— Industrial e Commercial (p. 588), daily, 10-4 ; free.
— Nacioma de Bellas Artes Q). 532), daily, 12.304; free on Sun., at other
times fee (also for strangers before and after the above hours).
— Naval (p. 531), daily; fee.
Among the numerous beautiful Potnts op Vikw, perhaps the finest
are the grounds of SOo Pedro de Alcdntara (p. 524), the dome of the Estrella
Church (p. 526), Nossa Senhora da Graga (p. 529), and Nossa Senhora do
Monte (p. 529). The best views of Lisbon itself are obtained on the ferry
to Cacilhas and firom AJmada (p. 640).
518 Route 55, LISBON. Situation.
Principal AttraetioiiB (four days), lat Day. In the morning : Pra^a
do Commercio ijt. 520); Roc{o (p. 621); Avenida da Liberdade (p. 522); *Aia-
meda ds Sdo Pedro de Alcantara (p. 624) ; Sdo Roqve (p. 524) ; Rua OarreU
(p. &22). Aflemoon: Pirofa de LuiM de Camdes (p. &23); JBt'reUa Ch$n-€h
(p. 5'26); Cemiterio doe Jngletee (p. 626); CemiUrio Allemdo (p. 526); .JTSe
ifAgua (p. 526); *BoUmic Garden (p. 526). — 2nd Day. Morning: Gzcnr-
Aion to Coeilhae and Almada (p. 640); S^ Pairiarehai (p. 527). Afternoon:
Cantello de Sao Jorge (p. 6^); Bao Vicente (p. 629); Noeea Senhora da
Grata (p. 629); Noeea Senhora do Monte (p. 629), — 3rd Day. ^Belem (p. 535) ;
Torre de Belem (p. 538) : visit from Ptdroufoe (p. 610) to Mont d*JBetortl
and Caeeaes (p. oil). — 4th Day. Excarsion to * Cintra (p. 642).
Lisbon, PoTtugueBe Liahda, the capital of Portugal and tbe see
of an archbishop, is an important commercial town with 307,700 in-
hab., situated in 38*»42'7" N. lat. and 9«6'7" W. long, on the ca-
pacious Bay of ike Tagus (p. 513), whicb here contracts to a width of
about 1-2 M. Lisbon is often called the most beautiful city of Europe
after Constantinople and Naples, and an old saying asserts ^quan
ndo v6 LUboQy ndo vS couaa boa' Qhe who bas not seen Lisbon does
not know what beauty is'). However this may be, everyone will
willingly allow that nature and man have here coSperated to great
advantage, and that the city, in spite of the absence of a mountain
background or distinguished buildings, possesses a beauty of its own
In the picturesque disposition of its terraces, its view of tbe wide
expansion of tbe Tagus, and the luxuriant vegetation of iU public
gardens and parks.
Most of the town is spread over the low eminences (ca. 300 ft.),
which form the S. margin of the calcareous and basaltic plateau of
Estremadura. LisboaObibntal, or the old town, still preserving some
scanty relics of the Moorish period, nestles round the foot of- the
ColUna do CcuieUo on the E. and stretches tbence to the N.E. over
the heights of 8flo Ftcentf, Nosaa Senhora da Ora^a^ and Noasa Sen-
hora da Periha da Franca. Lisboa Occidental, the modern Lisbon
proper, occupies the W. bills of Nossa Senhora das Cha^as^ Sdo
Roque, and Santa Caiharina , and also the double ridge of Buenos
Ayres, beyond the depression marked by the Rua de Sao Bento. In
the hollow between the new and old towns lies the Cidadb Baixa
or Central, wbich has been rebuilt since the earthquake of 1765 ;
and with this goes the N. height of Sant' Anna. The sides of all
these hills fall very abruptly to the Tagus and the Baixa, and the
massive houses which cover and cling to them look almost as if built
one on the top of another.
'Lisbon is said to be built on the same number of hills with old
Rome; but these do not all appear to the water; on the contrary, one
sees from thence one vast high hill and rock, with buildings rising above
one another, and that in fo steep and almost perpendicular a manner, that
they all seem to have but one foundation'' {Henry Fieldmg''e ^Journal of a
Voyage to Lisbon').
According to this older division of the city into three districts
(secQffes or bairros), Lisboa Oriental ended on the E. at tbe Porta da
Cruz de Pedra, while Lisboa Occidental extended on the W. to the
''eep bed of tbe Alcantora. The totsd area of the dty was about
Climate. LISBON. 55, Route. 519
3830 acres, and on the landward side it was bounded by the Estrada
da CircumvalloQdo^ extending in a semicircle from the Porta de Al-
cantara to the Porta da Cruz de Pedra. In 1886 the city-limits were
extended so as to include the suburbs of Alcantara, Junqueira, Belem^
and PedrouQoSf all situated to the W. of the Alcantara and hitherto
reckoned as belonging to the ''Termo de Lisboa'. The Chellas was
fixed as the E. boundary of the city, and the 'military road' from
Bemfica to Lumiar as its N. boundary. Buenos Ayres was detached
from Lisboa Occidental and united with these W. suburbs to form a
fourth district. The city has now a total area of 32,000 acres (60 sq. M,)
and extends along the Tagus for more than 6 M. To the Termo de
Lisboa belong also the N.E. suburban districts of Xahregas, Orilos^
ChellaSy Popo do Bispo, OlivaeSj and Sacavtm (p. 613). The thickly
settled parts of the city are confined to the bank of the Tagus and
the heights above it; on the land-side it straggles ofif towards the
plateau of Estremadura in long roads bordered with villas, and
gardens.
Lisbon is now one of the cleanest towns of Europe, though at
the beginning of this cent, it was notorious for its dilapidation, in-
security, and dirt (comp. 'Childe Harold's Pilgrimage', I. 17). An
excellent system of drainage carries off the sewage into the depths
of the Tagus, a new aqueduct (p. 530) provides the town with abun-
dant drinking-water and feeds its innumerable fountains (chafari-
zas). The new Estrada Militar or Estrada da Nova Circumvalla^So
(26 M. long), with the forts of Caxias, Af orwanto, Ameixoeira^ and
Sa^avem, supplements the older and partly decayed works oil the
Tagus and the fortifications at its mouth (p. 541). — The trade of
Lisbon, largely in the hands of the British, German, and other for-
eigners, is very important, and in 1891 its harbour was entered and
cleared by about 2300 vessels, with a total burden of 3,260,000 tons.
A considerable expansion of its commerce is anticipated from the
extensions of the harbour begun in 1887, which are to include a
huge quay stretching from the Cruz da Pedra to the Alcantara
(3V3 M.)» *^ outer harbour, and five capacious docks.
The most favourable season for a visit to Lisbon is autumn or,
still better, spring, when the parks, meadows, and orchards are
clothed in their freshest green. In winter sudden alterations of
temperature are not uncommon, in spite of the mildness of the
climate; and in summer the heat of the sun is very trying, even
though the nights are as a rule comparatively cool.
In antiquity Lisbon plays but a scanty rdle. Under the Homan.s Oti-
»ipo was named Felidtas JuUa and became a municipium, but Merida
(p. 455) was the capital of Lusitania. From 407 to 585 it was occupied by
the Alans, and from 585 to 715 by the Visigoths. After the battle of Jerez
(p. 429; 711) it fell into the hands of the Moors, who called it Aloshbvna or
XuA&fma. In 1147 it was, however, retaken by Affonso ffenriquet^ who was
aided by an army of Crusaders on their way to Palestine. The bulk of these
crusaders were Englishmen^ and thus the siege of Lisbon is doubly in-
teresting because it was *the first instance of the close connection between
520 BouU66. LISBON. History,
the two nations (England and Portugal) which has lasted down to the
present centary' (H. M. Siephetu). At this time the town was confined io
the hill now occupied by Lisboa Oriental, along with a strong Alcazar.
The king and the Portuguese army encamped to the B., on tke site now
marked by the church of SSo Vicente de Fora (^without the walls') ; the
Crusaders occupied the W. hill of the present Lisboa Occidental, then called
MonU FragoMo.
The importance of Lisbon began under Ajff'onso III.^ who transferred
the royal residence hither from Coimbra (1260). The great discoveries
made by the Portuguese at the end of the IMh cent, and later, tlie con-
quest of India by Franeisco tTAlmeida (d. 1510) and 4/fDiuo de Albuqverqve
(1453-1515) issued to the especial adrantage of the capital, which quickly
became the richest town in Europe. The sixty years of Spanish dominion
(1680-1640), the defeats of the Spanish and Portuguese fleets in the war
with Holland, the loss of India were all hard blows for Lisbon.
The Great Earthquake of Lisbon (Soy. 1st, 1755) laid half the city in
ruins and caused the death of 30-40,000 persons. It was accompanied by
a tidal wave, which swept the quays and wrecked the shipping, and it
was followed by destructiye flres. The material loss was estimated at
20,000,0001. The shock of the earthquake was perceptible in ScoUand,
Morocco, and Asia Minor. The most imposing figure in this disastrous
epoch is the Marquis of Pombal, the powerful minister of Joseph I. (1750-77)
and in spite of many errors one of the greatest men of his century, who
tried to eleyate Portugal in the spirit of an enlightened absolutism and
introduced a strict observance of the so-called 'mercantile system' or 'ba-
lance of trade'. When King Joseph asked him after the earthquake what
was to be done, he answered laconically: *Sire, bury the dead and take
care of the living'.
The beginning of the 19th cent, brought the French invasion, the re-
moval of the royal residence to Rio de Janeiro, the Peninsxdar War, the
loss of Brazil, and the utter decadence of Lisbon. Since the 6nd of the
period of revolutions, which lasted till about the middle of the century,
Lisbon has again risen from a state of decay to be a preat and handsome
city. Not a little of this regeneration is due to the initiative of the German
Prince F'erdinand of 8axe-Cobwff. consort of Queen Maria II. ^ and to his
sons , Peter V. (1863-61) and Louis I. (1861-88).
The AnuoBiAL Bxajungs of the city, representing a sailing ship with
two ravens, refer to the bringing of the remains of St. Vincent (d. 304)
by Affonso Henriques. On the invasion of the Moors the body of the
saint was removed from Valencia to Cape Sao Vicente (the *holy cape'),
and there guarded by ravens. Bavens are also said to have accompanied
the vessel on the voyage to Lisbon ; and until quite, recently a number
of these birds were kept in the cloisters of the cathedral (p. 528), neair
the tomb of the saint.
a. Cidade Baiza, Lisboa Occidental, and Buenos Ayres.
Nearly all the public buildings of Lisbon were rebuilt by Santos
de Carvalho after the earthquake of 1765. Most of them adjoin the
pRA9A DO CoMMEBCio (Pi. F, 5), whlch WES formerly named the Ter-
rdro do Poqo after the royal palace of 'Pagos da Ribeira', destroyed
by the earthquake. It is called by the English Black Horse Square.
On the E. are the Bolsa or exchange (business-hour 3-4) and the
Alfdndega or custom-house (p. 531). On the N. are the Mimsterio
do Reino and the Ministerio de Justi^a e Negocios Ecclesidsticos (min-
istries of the interior and of justice), the Supremo Tribunal or su-
preme court, and the Junta do Credito Publico or office of the national
debt. To the W. are the Ministries of Public Works (das Obras Pub-
CidadeBaixa. LISBON. 55. Route. 621
Ucaajy of the Exterior (doa Negoeios Estrangdros), of Finance (da
Fazenda)y and of War (da Querra), and also the Po9i ^ Telegraph
Office (p. 515). — On the S. side the square is open to the Tagas.
The Cae$ de Columnas, with its two marble columns, affords the best
view of the shipping in the bay and of the farther shore (Outra
Banda), with the castle of Palmella (p. 546) in the distance. Many
ships and thousands of men were engulfed here in a whirlpool oc-
casioned by the Great Earthquake. — The Equestrian Statute of Jo^
aeph /., by Joaquim Machado de Castro, was erected to the king by
his grateful people in 1775; on the S. side of the pedestal is a me-
dallion of the Marquis de Pombal.
To the N. of the Pra^a do Commercio lies the regularly built
Cidade Baizft (^lower town'), the site of which was probably once
an inlet of the Tagus, with a stream flowing into it on the N. Its
three main streets are the Rua d'Ouro (Hua Aurea), the Rua Augv>8ta,
and the Rua da Prata (Rua Bella da Rainlia). We enter the Rua
Augusta, the midmost of these streets, by the Arco Mormmental da
Rua Augustaj a large and somewhat clumsy structure with a clock
and statues of Viriathus, Vasco da Gama, Nuno Alvares Pereira
(p. 555), and Pombal. In the first cross-street, the Rua Nova de El
Rey or dos Capellistas, are the offices of the i;nerchants , shipping
companies, and the like. Pombal's plan was to limit the different
occupations to special streets; thus the Rua d'Ouro and the Rua da
Prata were intended for the goldsmiths and silversmiths, the Rua
Augusta for the cloth-dealers. As we proceed through the Baixa we
enjoy interesting glimpses to the right and left of Lisboa Oriental,
with the cathedral and the castle of St. George, and of the piled-up
houses of Lisboa Occidental, with the church of the Carmo. — At
the N. end of the Rua Aurea and the Rua Augusta lies the —
PBA9A DB DoM Pedbo Quabto (pi. F, 4), generally known as
0 Roc(Oj with its two bronze fountains and a lofty column topped
by a Statue of Peter IV, (p. 576). On the base of this monument,
which was erected by two Frenchmen, Robert and DabieuXy in 1870,
are figures of the four cardinal virtues. The mosaic pavement of
the square is laid in a curious undulatory pattern, from which the
British sailors call the Rocfo *Roly-poly Square'. — Immediately to
the E. of the Rocio is the Pra^a da Figueira (PI. F, 4), the Mercado
in which offers a busy scene from 6 to 10 a.m.
The Theatro de Dona Maria Segwnda (p. 517), at the N. end of
the Rocfo, occupies the site of the ^Pa^o dos Estaos\ the home of
the Inquisition from 1534 to 1820, which was destroyed by the Great
Earthquake in 1755 and again by fire in 1836. The pediment, con-
taining various sculptures, is surmounted by a statue of Oil Vicente
(d. ca. 1536), the earliest dramatist of Portugal.
Proceeding to the W. from the theatre, across the Largo de Ca-
moes and through the Rua do Principe, with the imposing Central
Railway Station and the Avenida Hotel (p. 514), we reach the —
522 RouU 55. LISBON. Igreja do Carmo.
*AT«iid* da liberdade (PL F, E, 3, 1), an exteneWe and shady
promenade, affording charming yiews of tie neiglibonHiig heights.
At its beginning stands the MonumerUo doa Restauradores de Portugal^
an obelisk 98 ft. high, erected in 1882 to commemorate the rising
of Dec. Ifit, 1640, by which the yoke of the Spanish *Intrasos' was
thrown off and an end put to the 'sixty years' slavery'. At the base
are bronze figures of Victory and the Genius of Liberty. — Incimed
Bailway (No. 2) to the Alcantara Park, see p. 515.
IHCLIXED Railw-at Ko. 1, Oil the £. si'le of the Avenida, leads to the
Trayessa du Convento de Sant* Anna, a few yards to the X.E. of which
lies the spacious Campo dos Maettkes da Patkia (PI. F, G, 2), once the
great rag-fair of Lisbon. To the S. of the Campo stand the new E*cola
Medtea (PI. O, 2), with an anatomical museum, and the Hospitai de SSo
Jos4 (PI. O, 3), occupying the buildings of the former Jesuit college of
Santo Antao, built in 1757. The Church of this college, built in 1579-1652
from the design of an Italian named Filippo Terzi but seriously damaged
by the earthquake of 1756, is one of the most beautiful Benaiasance struc-
tures in Portugal. The BotpUal de RUhafoUe* or do* Alienado* (PI. F, G, 1),
to the N. of the Campo, was opened for the insane in 1838. — From the
Campo to the Bull Rlng^ see p. 516.
In the Payo da Rainha(Pl. O, 2), leading to theKE. from the Campo
dos Hartyres, is the Falact of Bempotta^ built by Catharine of Braganza
(p. 538), who died here in 1705. It is now a military school. ITie English
arms are carved over the entrance.
In the extreme N. of Lisbon, *Ia M. from the end of the Ay. de la
Liberdade, lies the large Fenittnciaria Central^ built in 1874-85 and com-
manding an extensive view.
We now return to the Rocfo (p. 521) and ascend thence to the
S.W., through the busy Rua do Cabmo (PI. F, 4), with its tempting
shops. At the top it meets the Rua Nova do Almada^ coining from
the Largo do Municipio (p. 531) to the S. From the junction the
Rua Garrett (PI. F, 4; formerly Rua do Chiado), named after the
poet Garrett (p. 578), leads to the W. It is the most animated street
in Lisbon, containing many shops and the hotels mentioned at p. 515.
— On the W. it ends at the Largo das Duas Egrejas (Pi. F, 4),
with the Italian Church of Loreto to the right and the church of Nossa
Senhora da EncamoQcto to the left. The latter, founded in 1698, de-
stroyed in 1755, rebuilt in 1784, and restored in 1873, contains
some fine ceiling-paintings and a beautiful statue of the Virgin by
J, Machado de Castro (1803; at the high-altar).
From the Rua Garrett the Calgada do Sacramento leads to the N.
to the Largo do Carmo (PI. F, 4), with a large fountain. On the E.
side of this square stands the Gothic ♦Igpreja do Carmo or Nossa Sen-
hora do Vencimento, dedicated to the Virgin of Mount Carmel and
erected by Nunc Alvares Pereira in 1389-1423, in fulfilment of a vow
made on the field of Aljubarrota (p. 555). The earthquake of 1755
destroyed the whole building, except the outer walls, the fine pil-
lars, and the apse (capella mdrj. It stands on massive substructures
of masonry, which gave way twice during the erection of the apse.
The door on the left side of the transept leads into the Convento do
Carmo, secularized in 1834.
Ihis church now contains the ArchseologicalMiiBeum (adm.,
Archaeolog, Museum. LISBON. 55. Route. 523
see p. 517; catalogue 150 rs.), asome^nrhat miscellaneous collection
of prehistoric, Roman, and Portuguese antiquities, models, sarco-
phagi, statues, musical instruments, and minerals.
Nave. Gargoyle (fforguXa) from Goimbra; fountain, In the Moorish
style, from the old convent of Penha Longa; Arab marble basin from
Asamor; Greek statne of a priestess; pelourinho (p. 531) from Couto
d^Evora; Roman sarcophagus with the Muses.
Transept. Font; window from Belem.
Choir. 2306. Sarcophagus ofGon^alo de Sousa (i5thcent.); 2313. Cel
ebrated Hebrew Inscription from the Convento de Monchique in Oporto j
2302. -Sarcophagus of the Infante Dom Sancho, son of King Denis (Diniz) :
*2300, 2301. Barcophagus of Ferdinand /.(1376); 2304. Sarcophagus of Prin-
cess Constanga, moiher of Ferdinand I.; 2291-99. Marble figures (Maria I.,
Europe, Asia, Africa, and America) and reliefs by Jos6 Antonio d'Aguiar,
originally intended for a monumeot to Queen Maria I. in front of the
Estrella Church (p. 526) { 2321. Painted statue of Affonfo YI.
Side Chafel to the biqht of the Chois. In the case at the end:
2391. Crucifixion, a relief of the 16th cent.; 2393. Etruscan skull from
Mazzaboto; 2398. Head of Pope John XXII. (d. 1384), carved in wood;
2463. Head of an Apostle. — In Central Case A : Faience and porcelain.
— Case B: Chinese musical instruments. — CaseE: Coina and medals. —
In the window-recess : 2324. Reproduction in wood of the tomb of Nuno
Alvares Pereira (d. 1430; see p. 522), desfroyed in 1755.
FiBST Side Chapel to the left of the Choib, now the meeting-place
of the 'Real Associa^ao dos Architectoa Civis e Archeologos Portuguezes\
On the walls : portraits of Portuguese architects and archseologists ; view
of Lisbon in lo50. — The cases contain remains of weapons, implements,
skulls, and bones of the stone and bronze ages.
Second Side Chapel to the left. Two Roman mosaic pavements;
models and pland of towns and buildings. — The cabinets contain pre-
historic bones (1. Skull of a cave-bear, Ursas Speleeu?), a collection of
seals, and a collection of minerals. ^ In the glass-cases are two well-
preserved mummies from Pern. — On the table in the middle are Mexican
antiquities (353-355. Figures of kings).
From the Kua Garrett (p. 622) the Rua Ivens leads to the S. to
the Laboo da Bibliothbca (PI. F , 4 , 5). On the E. side of this
square, in an old Franciscan convent, is the —
Bibliothbca Publica, founded in 1796 and now containing
400,000 printed vols., 7300 MSS., a cahinet of coins, and a marble
statue of Queen Maria I. by J. Machado de Castro. Adm., see p. 617.
Among the MSS. is a folio Hebrew Bible of 1299. — The Phinted Books
include the first Mayence impression of OtUenberg's Bible; Cicero's Litterae
ad Familiare$, printed at Venice in 1469 ; a Vita Christi, printed at Lisbon
in 1496; and the first edition oi TJie Lusiads of Camoens (1572).
In the N.W. part of the Franciscan convent is the Oovemo Civil
(PI. F, 4), including the headquarters of the police. Opposite, in
the Largo Sao Carlos, is the Theatro de SSo Carlos (p. 517), and
adjacent, in the Rua Antonio Maria Cardoso is the Theatro de Dona
AmeUa (p. 517).
To the W. of the Largo das Duas Egrejas (p. 622) lies the shady
Pbaca de Luiz de Camobs (pi. E, 4), with a monument, hy Victor
Bastos (1867), to Luiz de CamOe» (Camoens), the most celebrated
poet of Portugal.
The figure of the heroic singer stands on a handsome octagonal ped-
estal of a marble-like stone; in his right hand is a drawn sword, in his
loft a copy of his masterpiece the ^Lusiads\ a great national epic celebr"
524 Route 55, LISBON. SOo Boque.
ing the noble deeda of Ma countrymen. CamSes was bom at liiabon or
Coimbra (p. 565) in 1524, atadied at Coimbra, went to Africa and after-
wards to India in consequence of an unfortunate love-affair , and did not
return to Lisbon till 1568. He published th« ^Lusiads' in 1672 and died in
poverty in 1580. As Cervantes lost his left arm in the battle of I/epanto,
50 CamSes lost his right eye in a skirmish with the Moors ; and tike sculptor
has not tried to conceal this bodily defect. — Bound the pedestal are
ranged the statues of eight other famous Portuguese who have described or
sung the great discoveries of their country: the historian Femao Lepe$^
the cosmographer Pedro Nune»^ the chroniclers Gomez JSemnes d^Aturara^
JoSo de Barroty and Fernao Lopes de Castanheda, and the poets Vaeco Mtm-
tinho de Quevedo^ Jeronymo Corte Real, and FrancUeo de Sa de Menezes.
Tbe wire-rope railway mentioned at p. 516 leadg from the Pra^a
de Camoes to the N.W. to the Palace of the Cortes (p. 627) and the
£8trella Gburch (p. 526). Tbe Rua do Alecrim descends steeply to
the S.W., viil tbe Largo de Barao de Quintella, to the Pra^ do
Duque de Terceira (p. 634)', on tbe bank of the Tagna. — On a
prominent knoll, a little to the S.W. of tbe Largo de Barao de
Quintella , lies the church of Ncasa Senhora da8 Chagas (PI. E, 4).
To the N. of this church, at No. 6 Kua das Gbagas, is the building
of the Sociedade de Oeographia^ with a good library and the Museu
ColoniaL The latter (adm. , see p. 617) contains ethnographical
objects, memorials of the Portuguese travellers in Africa, maps, etc.
The broad Rua de Sao Roaux (PI. F,4, 3) ascends from the N.E.
comer of the Pra^a de Camoes to tbe Largo de Sao Roque, where
a monument commemorates the marriage of Louis I. with Maria Pia
of Savoy (1862). On the N. side of the square is the church of
Sfto Boque (PI. F, 3), a late-Renaissance structure of about 1666,
erected by tbe Jesuits from a design by Filippo Terzi (p. 622).
The ornate Intebiob, which has no aisles, may be visited for the sake
of two of its chapels (good light desirable; sacristSo in the Santa Ca^a).
The CapeUa de Sao Roque (Srd to the right) has charming wall- tiles by
FrancUeo de Matot (1584). The Cap. de Itao Joao Baptieta (last to the left)
was constructed at Borne in the costliest marbles after a design by Van-
vitelli, was consecrated by the Pope, then taken to pieces, and shipped to
Lisbon. It contains large mosaics, silver candelabra, columns of lapis
lazuli, and a handsome altar.
' The Santa Ca^a de Misericordia^ in the adjoining buildings of
the Jesuit convent, has been the foundling hospital of Lisbon since
1768. About 2000 children (expostos) are annually received here on
tbe roda (Span, iorno ; see p. 412). It also includes an asylum for
orphan girls (orf&s).
Farther on the Rua de Sao Roque passes the Inclined Railway
named at p. 615 and ends at the *Alameda de Sfto Pedro de Alcan-
tara (PI. E, F, 3), a shady promenade, combined with a flower
garden on a lower level. It is adorned with busts of Mark Antony, Mar-
cus Aurelius, Homer, Raphael Mengs, Pedro Alvares Oabral (p. 604),
Camoens , Dom Henrique (^Henry the Navigator' ; p. 661), Joao de
Castro (p. 646), Affonso de Albuquerque (p. 604), and Vasco da
Gama (p. 604). — The view is one of the most beautiful In Lisbon.
To the S. are the bay of the Tagus and the castle-hill of Palmella
(p. 646); to tbe E., Lisboa Oriental with the castle of St. George
Botanical Garden, LISBON. 55. Route, 625
(p. 528) and the churches of Gra^a (p. 629), do Monte (p. 529),
and Penha da Franca (p. 530); to the N., the high-lying Peni-
tentiary. At our feet lie the Avenida da Liherdade , the Central
Railway Station, the Rocfo, and the Baixa.
We now follow the tramway to the N. W., along the Rua de Dom
Pedro Quinto , to the La&oo do Pmncipb Real (PI, E, 2, 3 ; for-
merly Largo da Patriarchal Qudmcufa), a large promenade with a
fountain and attractive pleasure-grounds. It stands on the highest
part of Lishoa Occidental and occupies the site of a patriarchal
church, built by John V., overthrown by the earthquake of 1755,
and again destroyed by a fire in 1769. From the W. comer we enjoy
a fine view of Buenos Ayres (see below), the Estrella Church (p. 526),
and the Tagus. — This largo Is a station of the tramway-lines of
the ♦Circumvalla^ao' and to the 'Rate' and 'Rooio' (Nos. 1 and 2).
From the. Largo do Principe Real the Rua da Escola Polytechnica
runs to the N.W, to the Polttecknio Institute (PI. K, 2), which
contains an interesting Natural History Museum (adm. , see p. 517),
an Astronomical Observatory (Observatorio Astronomico) , and a
Meteorological Station (Observatorio Meteorologico do Infante Dqm
Luiz). To the Polytechnic also belongs the ^Botanical Oftrden
(open free), established in 1875 and probably the finest in Europe.
The lower part of the garden contains a magnificent avenue of palms
and a most fascinating show of tropical and subtropical plants. It is
reached by a road from the S.E. corner of the Polytechnic, and there
is a side-entrance in the Rua Nova da Alegria. In the upper part
of the garden are the Estufas, or greenhouses.
Beyond the church of 8&o Mamede the Rua da Escola Poly-
technica ends at the Laboo do Rato (Pi. D, 1), another important
tramway-station, with several fine mansions. The Cal^ada de Fabrica
de Lou^a leads hence to the N. to the neighbouring *H&e d'Agua
(PI. D, 1 ; ring at the green door No. 7, to the left; fee 200 rs.), the
storage basin of the old Lisbon aqueduct (see below), situated 265 ft.
above the Tagus and completed in 1834 This *Mother of Water',
one of the most impressive structures in Lisbon, consists of a huge
stone hall , in the midst of which is the reservoir, 98 ft. long, 82 ft.
wide , and 33 ft. deep. A narrow staircase ascends to the aqueduct
itself, in the form of a low gallery with two water-channels, and to
the flat roof of the edifice, 95 ft. above the street (extensive view).
The Aquedttcto daa Aguas Liyres, or old aqueduct of Lisbon, 15 M. in
length, was constructed under John V. in 1T29-49 at an alleged cost of
600U contos reis (comp. p. 530). It supplies the town with the water of the
Agwu lAvru from a point near Baias (p. 541). The aqueduct, which is
partly underground, crosses the valley of the Alcantara at Oampolide
.(p. 514)' by a viaduct Vs M. long, on the top of which are two stone cause-
ways leading to Bemfica (p. 6il). The largest of the 35 arches is 204 ft.
high. As it approaches the Mae d'Agua, the aqueduct crosses the attractive
Pringa das Amoreirat (PI. D, 1).
The high- lying part of the city to the W. of the Largo do Rato
is named Buenos Ayres (Port. Rons Ares),
526 BouU 66, LISBON. FHrOla Church.
We follow tke Rua po Sol i>o Rato, passing the eud (left) of
the long Rna de Sao Bento (tramway, see p. 516), and tnin to the
left into the Rua do Yisconde de Santo Ambrosio , which iQads past
the chnrch of Santa Izabel to the shadeless Rua Sabaiya de Gas-
YALRO (PI. B, G, 2). The last runs nearly due W. to the Cemiterio
Ocoidental (PI. A, B, 2), which lies high above the valley of the
Alcantara. This cemetery, also known as the Cem, doe Br<»eres from
an old ermida, contains tasteful graves (jazigotj and numerous
cypresses, and affords an admirable view of the Tagus, Ajuda
(p. 536), and the arches of the old aqueduct. To the S., a little
lower, is the Cemetery of the Poor. — We now retrace our steps and
follow the Rua do Patrocinio to the right to the small Gbmitbsio
Allemao (PI. B, 2 ; entr. , Largo de Jos^ da Silva Garvalho 59),
containing the graves of Germans, Swiss, and Scandinavians. From
this point to the Palado Real, see p. 533.
From the E. pare of the Rua Saraiva de Garvalho the Bua Nova
da Estrella descends to the right to the entrance of the *Cemitbsio
DOB Inglbzbs (PI. G, 2; ring: fee 100 is.), known as Oo Oyprestea
from the number of its cypresses. This cemetery, the first Pro-
testant burial-ground in Portugal, was laid out in 1717 in connection
with the Hoapital of the English Factory ('Impensis Britanorum et
Batavorum'). It contains the graves of Henry Fielding (1707-54),
the immortal author of ^Tom Jones', and Dr, FhiUp Doddridge
(1702-61), the eminent Nonconformist divine.
The gate below that of the English Cemetery leads into the
Paaseio Publico da EstrfiUa (PI. C, D, 2), an attractive park with two
ponds and a restaurant. Its lower entrance opens on the Largo da
Estrella (PL G, 2, 3).
The 'Estrella Church, officially styled the Basilica do Santissimo
CoragSU) de Jesus (PI. C, 3), is the most conspicuous building in
W. Lisbon, just as Sao Vicente (p. 529) is in E. Lisbon. The
.church was erected in 1779-96, on the site of the old convent of
Nossa Serihora da Estrella, in fulfilment of a vow of Queen Maria I.,
whose prayers for an heir to the throne had been heard. Its archi-
tects, Matheus Vicente and Beynaldo Manuel j took the church of
Mafra (p. 650) as their modeL The building material is limestone
from the valley of the Alcantara (p. 534). The facade is adorned
with numerous allegorical figures and statues of saints by J. Machado
de Castro, The two bell-towers serve as landmarks for seamen.
The fitting up of the Intebiok is ornate rather than artistic. The High
Altar is decorated with figures of the four quarters of the globe, the nude
woman representing Europe. To the right of the high-altar is the Mauto-
leum of Queen Maria, who died at Bio de Janeiro in 1816 at the age of
82, after having been insane for 24 years. The Latin inscription is curious.
The *AscENT OF the Dome (entr. by the 5th door to the right -, fee
200 rs.) should not be omitted. The staircase in the N.W. tower ascends
to the flat roof of the church, which itself is a -fine point of view. We
^hen pass through the double lining of the dome into a gallery round its
interior, where care should be taken not to disturb the worshippers below
by loud talking. A ladder finally leads to the Lanfemy the view from
Academia das Sciencias. LISBON. 55. Route. 527
which ifl the moat extensiye and the finest in Lisbon, including the whole
of the city, the S. bank of the Tagus, and the ocean.
We return by Inclined Railway No, 4 (p. 516). To the left, in the
Labgo db Sao Bbnto (station), lies the secularized convent of Sdo
Bento (17th cent.), vhich has been used since 1834 as the Palftcio
das O&rtes (PL D, 3), or house of parliament. It includes the Camara
dos Senhorea Depuiados and the Camara dos Dignos Pares do Reino,
the two together forming the Cortes Qeraes da NaQcCo Portugueza.
The building also contains the National Aechives (Archivo Geral
do Reino)i the largest collection of documents in the country (adm.,
see p. 617). It is generally known as the Torre do TombOy having
been originally established in 1375 in a tower of that name, whence
it was transferred to the Castle of St. George and ultimately (1757)
to its present resting-place. — In front of the palace is the insigni-
ficant bronze statue of the statesman Jo86 Esteuan Coelho de Magal-
Mes, by Victor Bastos (1878).
Not far off is the Academia Beal das Sciencias (PI. D, E, 3),
Rua do Arco de Jesus 13, founded in 1779 in a Jesuit convent. It con-
tains a large Library (adm., see p. 517) and some valuable collections.
The rich Ethnoqkaphical Collection, on the gronndfloor, has recently
been well arranged and deserves a visit.
The Geological and Pbbhistobio Collections are on the upper floor.
Main Boom. In the Central Cotes are human remans and implement from the
*kitchen middens' (Danish, 'kjokkenmoddinger') of Mngem and the Tagus,
along with photographs of the place in which they were found; view of
a prehistoric stone quarry at the mouth of the Campolide Tunnel. Cases 8-12:
Objects found in the caves of Peniche, including (Case 11) an excellently
preserved vessel. The Synoptical Case at the end of the room contains
the most notable objects of various epochs, including marble copies of the
stone-axes found in the cave of Carvalhal near Alcoba^a, and a large
curved slab of stone, of unknown import, with corded ornamentation, from
the Casa da Houra at Cesareda. Central Case 10 contains a Eoman edict
on metal plates, from the copper mines of Aljustrel. — The side-room
contains a Collection of Modkbn Ethnoqbapht, including a large number
of amulets and votive objects.
A little to theE. of the Royal Academy of Sciences is the English
College^ founded in 1624 for the education of priests and attended
hy 40-60 students.
b. Lisboa Oriental.
From the N.E. corner of the Pra^a do Commercio (p. 520) we
enter the Rua da Princesa (dos Fanqueiros) andt^en ascend to the
right hy the Rua da Concei^ao (the third cross-street) to the Largo
de Santo Antonio da S^, in which rises the church of 8anto Antonio
da S6 (PL G, 6), destroyed by the earthquake and rebuilt by Matheua
Vicente in 1812. It occupies the site of the house in which 8L Antony
of Padua (1195-1231) was born. ■ — A little higher up stands the —
8^ Patriarchal (PI. G, 5), or cathedral, the oldest ecclesiastical
edifice in Lisbon, founded by Affonso Henriques in 1150, tradi-
tionally on the site of a Moorish mosque, and connected wit>
Castle of St. George by an underground passage. Boniface IX. in-
528 Route 66. LISBON. Caatello.
It in 1993 with the dignity of a metropolitan church. Affonso IV.
restored most of the hnilding after the earthquake of 1344, and
Ferdinand I. erected the present W. facade in 1380. The earthquake
of 1755 destroyed the dome, and the suhsequent fire deYOured the
roof and bell-tower. The work of renovation took 26 years. The
only relics of the Gothic cathedral of the 14th cent, are the lower
part of the facade, the first chapel in the left aisle, the ambulatory
chapels, and two bays of the transept. The two Towers have been
so truncated as to be quite ineffective. In 1383 Bishop Martinho was
thrown from the N. tower by the mob on account of his Spanish
sympathies.
The Iktbbiob has liftUe of interest. The walla are lined with blue and
white tilea. — The Capella de Sdo VicmU containa the remaina of St. Vin-
cent (p. 520). — In the CofUla M6r rest AfFonao IV. (d. 1357) and hia
wife Beatrice (Brites). Beyond, in the ambulatory, is an old episcopal
throne, said to be that from which Affonso adminintered justice.
The CloUter* are entered from the N. aide of the ambulatory. Their
fourth chapel containa the ^Senhor Jesua da Boa Senten^a da 86\ a wonder-
working crucifix.
In the Rua do Arco Limoeiro, to the N. of the cathedral, is the
Aljube (left), a prison originally erected for ecclesiastics but used
for women since 1833. In the regency of Dom Miguel (1828) it was
filled with adherents of the constitutional party. — A little farther
on, to the right, in theLABGo do Limobiho (PI. G, 5), is the Limoeiro,
or male prison of Lisbon. It occupies the site of the Palticio da
Moeda^ one of the royal residences in the 14-15th cent., where the
Grand Master of Aviz, afterwards King John I. (p. 604), stabbed Count
Andeiro in 1383. The edifice, which has been used for a prison since
1496, was rebuilt after the earthquake. The prisoners are allowed to
converse freely with the passers-by.
Beyond the prison we ascend steeply to the left, passing the
church of 8ao Thiago^ to the Largo do Contador Mor (PI. G, 4),
whence we proceed by the Travessa do Funil and the Rua do Chao
daFeira to 8t. George's Gate. Passing through this without question,
we enter the Castello de Sfto Jorge (PI. G, 4), the old Moorish
citadel (Castello dos Mouros)^ which the Christians penetrated by
the Porta do 8oly in the Pra^a Nova (now walled up). Adjoining
the gate is a marble head of Martino Mcnh , whose heroic self-
sacrifice enabled the Christians to enter (inscription of 1646). —
On the castle-hill Affonso III. (d. 1279) built the Papo de 8ao Bar-
tholomeuy the first royal residence in Lisbon, and his successor Diniz
(d. 1325) the PoQQ da Alca^ova. Both these were destroyed by the
earthquake of 1755, and Emmanuel I. replaced them by the Pa^os
da Ribeira (p. 520). The castle now contains barracks , a military
prison, and the small church of Santa Cruz do Castello , with the
highly revered 'Imagem' of St. George. It affords splendid views
of the town and the Tagus, especially from the tree-shaded terrace
on the S. side.
We now return to the Rua do Chao da Feira and descend thence
Sao Vicente. LISBON. 55. Route. 529
vih the Pra^a de Dom Fadrique and tlie Bua dos Cegos to the Largo do
MeninoDens (PI. G, 4). Thence we ascend by theTravessado A^ougue,
the Rua de Santa Marlnha, and the Rua de Sio Vicente to the lofty,
twin-towered church of 8§Lo Vicente d©I'6ra(Pl. H, 4). The original
chnrch, erected hy Affonso Henriqnes 'outside' the town (p. 619),
was replaced in 1582 hy the present late-Renaissance edifice, ascribed
to Filippo Terzi (?). The dome fell In at the earthquake of 1755.
The facade and the aisleless interior are richly adorned with marble.
The nave is roofed with lofty barrel-vaulting. The bald achino of the
high-altar is by J. Machado de Castro, The remains of Nuno Alvares
Pereira were removed to the Capella de 8SLo Theotonio after the
earthquake (comp. p. 622). Adjoining the capella-m6r is the burial-
vault of the Patriarchs of Lisbon.
The MosTEiBO dk SXo Vicente, occupied down to 1773 by
Augustine monks transferred to Mafra in that year , is now the re-
sidence of the Cojrdeal Patriarcha de Lishoa. In the cloisters is the
*Pantheon of the Portuguese monarehs of the house of Braganza,
from John IV. (1640-66) to Louis L (d. 1889). Affonso VL (p. 638)
and Maria I. (p. 526) are buried elsewhere. The Duke of Terceira
(p. 634) and the Duke of Saldanha are also interred here. Admission
Is hard to obtain; the key is generally kept at the National Archives
(p. 527). — The *Convent Garden commands an extensive view. '* '
A little to the S.E., in the Campo de Santa Clara, stands the
fine church of Santa Engbacia (PI. H, 4), founded in 1500 and
restored in 1630. It was, however, left unfinished and is now used
as an artillery magazine. 'Endless, like the building of Santa En-
gracia', and 'Obras de Santa Engracia' are proverbial expressions in
Lisbon. — Adjacent lies the Marine Hospital (PI. H, I, 4; 1797).
From the church of St. Vincent the Rua da Infancia ascends to
the N. to the Largo da Gra(ja (PI. G, H, 3, 41 which we follow to
the S.W., passing the old Convent of Gra^a (now barracks), to the
church of Nossa Senhora da era9a (262 ft. ; PI. G, H, 3, 4). This
unpretending structure, built in 1656 and rebuilt after the earth-
quake, occupies the top of the ridge once called the Almafcda. It
commands a fine 'View of Lisboa Occidental and the lower town,
but the harbour is concealed by the Castle of St. George.
Intebiob. The miracle-working image of Nosm Senhor dos Pcu$ot da
Oraga is exhibited on Frid. in the S. transept. The fignre of Christ is
represented lying under the Gross and is believed by the faithful to consist
of real flesh and blood, in proof of which the flnger-marks of a sceptic
may be seen on one of the legs. In the nave is an image of Noua Senhora
das Ddres. — In the Cata do Capitulo is the tomb of Affonso de Albuquerque
(p. 504), and in the Sacristy is the monument of De Pereira^ secretary of
state under Peter II.
TTe now return to the above-mentioned barracks and enter the
Rua da Gra^a to the N. Near the beginning of this street, to the left,
is the Travessa do Monte, leading to (5 min.) the ermida of Nossa
Senhora do Honte (328 ft.; PI. G, H, 3). Here we enjoy a most
extensive *View, extending on the N.E. to'Santarem and embracing
Basdeker'8 Spain and Portugal. 34
530 Rmtte56. LISBON. ArsmaL
the fjrcater part of the city, the harbour, and the S. hanlt of the river.
The chapel, built in 1243 and mined by the earthquake, contains
the chair of 8do OenSf the first bishop of Lisbon, which is held in
nin<->h esteem by women approachyig their confinement.
We return to the Largo da Gra^a and take the IneUned RaUway
No. 3 (p. 516) back to the lower town. Or we may follow the Rua
da Grafa to its N. end, pass the Cruz dos Qua^o CaminhoM, and
then follow the Estrada da Penha da Franca to the N.E. to the
(20 min.) secularized Augustine convent of Hossa Senhora da
Penha da Franca (360 ft. ; PI. H, 1). This was built about 1597
by the sculptor Antonio SimffeSt ii^ gratitude for his escape from the
disastrous battle of Al-Kasr al-Kebtr (p. 538), and was named in
honour of the image of the Virgin mentioned at p. 450. The church,
restored after the earthquake, is the votive church of the sea-faring
population. It affords a fine view of the fertile hilly district to the
N., the Serra de Gintra and the Pena (p. 544) to the W., and the
Tagus bay to the S.
From the Penha da Franca we may descend to the W. to the
Avenida dos Anjos and proceed thence to the S.W. to the tramway
station in the Largo do Intendente (PL G, 2). Or we may follow
the Kstrada da Circumvalla^io to the S.E., passing the Cemiterio
Oriental (PI. K. 1), to the Ota cfc Pedra (PI. K, 3).
0. The Streets by the Tagns (from E. to W.)/
At the point where the Estrada da Gircumvalla^Ho joins the line
of streets along the river, a little to the N.E. of the Crm de Pedra,
lies the Aiylo de Dona Maria Pia (PI. K, 3), an almshouse estab-
lished in 1867. Adjacent is the former convent of Madre de Deuz,
founded in 1508 by Queen Leonora, sister of Emmanuel I. and
widow of John II. The church contains the tomb of the foundress
and some good paintings.
The Calle da Cruz da Pedra leads hence to the S.W. to the
Dbfosito do Alyiblla. (pi. I, 3, 4), the reservoir of the conduit
constructed in 1869-80 to supply the town with the water of the
Alviella (p. 512), near Pemei^ a distance of 70 M. Farther on are
the Esta^ao de Santa Apolonia (p. 514) and the Arsenal do Ezircito
(PI. H, 4, 5), a block of buildings begun in 1726 and finished by
the Marquis of Pombal in 1760. It now accommodates a military
magazine and the Commando Qeral da Artilheria. On the first floor
of the main building are five fine Salaa d^ Armas, A side-building
(entr. in the Galgada do Museu de Artilheria) contains the ARTiiiLEBT
Museum (adm., see p. 517), a valuable collection of military im-
plements and cannon. Among the last is the Cannon of i>tu, a
93-pounder 20 ft. in length, with an Arabic inscription. To the Ar-
senal belong a school for sixty ^Apprendizea do AraenaV, a Weapon
Factory^ and a Oun Foundry (Fundi^ao de CanhffesJ in the Gampo
' ^ Santa Clara (p. 529 ; adm. by permit from the Commando Geral).
Largo do Municipio. LISBON. 55. Route. 531
Passing through several narrow streets, we reach the Rua da Al-
PANDBGA (PI. G, 5) and the chuich of HoBsa Senbora da Coneoi^fto
Yelha. The magnificent facade, with its door and windows in the
richest ^Manoelino' or 'EmmanueP style (p. 536), is the facade of the
S. transept of the old church of Nossa Senhora da Misericordioj built
by Emmanuel I. about 1620 for the brotherhood of that name and
destroyed by the earthquake in 1755. The relief of the portal, re-
presenting the Virgin, Pope Alexander VI. , Emmanuel, and his
sister Leonora, has been preserved in the sacristy since 1813. — A
few yards to the E. of this point is the Travessa dos Bioos, leading
to the Bua dos Bacalhoeiros. Here stands the Ctua do8 Bicoe^ built
in the reign of Emmanuel L by Braz, a son of Affonso de Albuquerque.
It used also to be called the Ccaa dos DiamarUes, from the facetted
stones of the fagade.
The AlpXndbga Grande (PI. F, G, 6), on the S. side of the Rua
da Alfandega, is the custom-house of Lisbon (business-hours 9-3).
It was built by the Marquis de Pombal after the earthquake, on the
site of the Qua da India e Mina, and has a large arcaded court.
Farther on is the ProQa do Commercio (p. 520), to the N.W. of
which lies the Laboo do Municipio (PI. F, 5), or Largo doPelourinho^
a handsome square overlooked by the lofty buildings of upper Lis-
bon. The Camara Municipal^ on its E. side, was completed in 1880.
The church of Sj:o JuliXo, in the N.E. corner, dates flrom the 12th
cent, but was rebuilt after the earthquake. It contains the Chapel
of the Oermans (S. transept) and the silver christening bowl of King
Sebastian. — The spiral column in the midst of the square is the
so-called Pelourinho^ or pillory, also known as the Forca doa Fidalgoa
from the many nobles executed here. The numerous *pelourinhos'
of Portugal refer, like the Roland columns of Lower Germany, to
the jurisdiction claimed by the towns.
On the S. side of the Largo do Municipio stretches the Marine
Arsenal (PI. F, 5), to which visitors are admitted by a *licen9a'
from the Inspector. It includes wharves, a dry dock, and a naval
yard for the equipment of the fleet (Depdsito Oeral da Fazenda da
Armada), On the first floor of the main building is the Naval
Academy, The Sala do Risco contains the Museu Naval (adm., see
p. 517). — Sulphur Spring, see p. 516.
To the W. the Rua do Arsenal ends at the Labgo do Cobfo
Santo (PI. E, 5), with the Convent and College of the Iri^h Domini-
cans, founded in 1641. Here the tramway skirting the Tagus forks
into the inner and outer lines (comp. p. 534).
The Innbb Tramway Linb passes under the Rua do Alecrim
(p. 624) and follows the Rua de Sao Paulo to the Largo do Sao
Paulo (Pl. E, 5), with its handsome bronze fountain. Farther on
it passes (left) the Casa da Moeda, or Mint, and (right) the Inclined
Bailway No. 5 (p. 616) and reaches the Largo do Oonde Barao (PI.
D, 4). Here diverges the tramway to the Rate (p. 525), running to
34*
534 B^mUM, LISBON. AleanUxra,
large Quarriei to the W. of the Alcantara , the tnarble-lfke limestoDe
of which has long been used by the builders of Lisbon. — A few
hundred yards farther on, the inner and outer tramway lines reunite
in the suburb of Aloantara, near the high-lying Ermida ofSanio
AmarOf a singular Renaissance dome-covered building begun in
1549« On the S. side is an open cloister , the walls of which are
lined with rich tiles.
From Alcantara to AJttda and Bdem, see below.
The OuTBB Tbavwat Line, skirting the Tagus and affording a
series of flne yiews , leads from the Largo do Corpo Santo (p. 531),
past the Hdtel Central (p. 515), to the Pra^a do Duque da Terceira
(PL £, 5). Here rises a bronze statue of the brave General Villa Flor^
Duque de Tereeira, who roused the Azores (Terceira) to revolt during
the Miguelite reign of terror (p. 528) and marched triumphantly on
July 24th, 1833, from Algarve to the liberated Lisbon. The statue,
erected in 1877, is by Jos^ Simoes d'Almeida.
Beyond this point the river is skirted by the Bua Vinte t Quairo
de Jxdho (PI. A-E, 4, 5), formerly named the AterrOj a wide boule-
vard reclaimed from the Tagus and planted with trees. The new
harbour-works (p. 520) to the left include a broad quay, two large
docks, and a fore-harbour (Anteporto), To the right is the Mereado
de Vinte e Quatro de Julho (PI. £, 5), with its spacious glass pavil-
ions , presenting a very animated scene in the early morning. In
the middle is the flsh-market. The flsh are sold by auction opposite,
on the bank of the river.
To the N.W. of the market is the charming Pra^ do Marquez
de Si da Bandeira (PI. E, 5) , with a bronze statue , by Giovanni
Ciniselli, of the Mar^Sz de 8d da Bandeira (1795-1876; p. 582\
— To the left lies the new Esta^ao Caes do Sodrl (PI. D, 5; p. 514),
the starting-point of the railway to Belem and Gascaes.
Farther on, the tramway passes the Eata^Oo de Santos (PL G, 4),
the Rua de Yasco da Qama (p. 532) , and numerous mills and fac-
tories, uniting with the inner line on the other side of the Alcantara
valley (see above).
d. Ajuda and Belem.
AJuda is reached from Alcantara (see above) by the Oal(ada da Tapada,
leading to the K.W. along the park (IVs M.) , or from the Praca de Dom
Fernando in Belem by the Gal^ada d'Ajuda , ranning to the K.E. (^4 M.).
A third street connects AJuda vrith the Praca de Yasco da Oama (p. 596)
in Belem. — The Pa^o deBetem is in the Praca de Dom Fernando j the
church of Santa Maria and the Casa Pia lie V4 M. to the W., in the Prars
de Vasco da Gama, a station of the Tramway mentioned at p. 516. The
Belem station on the Gascaes Railway (R. 56c) adjoins the Pra^a de Dom
Fernando. The Terre de Belem stands halfway between the stations of
Belem and Pedroucos. — The church at Belem is closed in the afternoon.
Beyond the junction of the inner and outer lines at Alcantara
Tsee above) the tramway continues to run towards the W. through
^e suburb of Junqneira, passing the Colegio BrasiUlro and skirting
Aiuda. LISBON. 66, Route. 535
the Novo Betiro (Praia de Junqueira), To the right are several
attractive country-houses ; to the left is a Cordoaria or ropery.
Qii reaching Belem (Brit, vice-consul), we follow the long Rua
de Junqueira to the Pbaca db Dom Fbbnando. On the N. side of
this square, at the corner of the Oal^ada d'Ajuda, lies the Paoo
bb Bblbm, an unpretending building, generally used for the hous-
ing of royal guests. It is also known as the Qumta de Baixo in distinc-
tion to the Quinta de Oima, situated a little to the N. Behind the
palace is a garden with a small menagerie. Near it is the PieadeirOj
or riding school.
The monotonous Gal^ada d'Ajuda leads to the N.E. to the inter-
esting Depddto das Cammgens Reaes, or royal coach-houses (adm. on
application to the superintendent).
The most interesting state-carriages are that of Philip III. (1619); an-
other of 1656; the bridal chariot of Peter II. and his wife; the chariot
(made at Paris in 1666) given by Louis XIV. to the Princess of Savoy on
her marriage with Affonso VI. ; two of John V. (1727 and 1708), the latter
of which was used at the marris^e of the present king. Donkey-carriages;
carriages for children; old cabriolets. The 'seges' were in use down to
the middle of the present century. — Here also are kept the vehicles on
which the images of saints are borne through the streets on high festivals.
At the end of the street stands the royal Palace of Aj^^&t
splendidly situated on the hill above Belem and now occupied by tbe
Queen-Dowager Maria Pia. It was erected by John VI. on the site
of a temporary wooden building that sheltered the royal family for
some time after the earthquake, and has never been finished. The
main facade is turned towards the E. Yisitors are seldom admitted.
The vestibule contains 44 lifesize marble statues by /. Machado de Gastro
and others. The state-rooms are hung with numerous pictures by Cyrillo
Machado y Sequeira^ and Tabor^ Vieira Portueme. The Sala ds Tocha, the
largest room (E. side), contains ' fcenes from the life of John IV. by Ta-
bordaf in the Sala de Addiencia is a representation of the return of
John VI. from Brazil. Court receptions are held in the Sala das Bei-
JAMA OS (^kissing hands'). — The well-arranged Libbabt contains a col-
lection of costly Church Plate from Belem (see above), wrought from the first
gold brought home by Vasco da Gama from India. Here, too, are the
sword of Nimo Alvarea Pereira (p. 622), a 'gorgelim' (gorget) of Francis I.
of France, and several trophies.
Nearly opposite the S.W. angle of the palace is the entrance to
the Botanic Gabdbn (if closed, the visitor should send in his card
to the Director; fee to the superintendent 100 rs.). At the entrance
of the lower garden are the statues of two warriors , excavated at
Lezenho (p. 510) in 1785 and probably of Celtic origin. Above the
gate are the busts of two Roman emperors. The fountain is adorned
with figures of all manner of crawling things. By the flight of
steps leading to the shady upper garden is a statue in Roman dress.
From the Botanic Garden a sunny street descends to the S.W.
to the insignificant churcb of 8Uo Joie or Memoria^ founded on
Sept. 3rd, 1760, on the spot where King Joseph I. had been sbot
at and wounded two years before.
The Duke of Aveiro, the Marquis and Marchioness of Tavora, and the
Count of AtOuguia were found guilty of this crime and were executed
536 BouU55. LISBON. Belem.
here, along with four subordinate conspirators, ten days after the attempt.
Their bodies were burned and their ashes scattered in the Tagus. Pombal
used the opportunity to implicate the Jesuits and to expel that order from
Portugal, and they on their side stigmatised the whole affair as a sham
plot arranged by the marquis. — The palace of the Dake of Aveirb was
torn down, while its site was strewn with salt and forbidden to be used for
any otiiar building. The spot, near the Pafo de Belem, now almost con-
cealed by small houses, is still marked by a column.
The Btieet ends at the Bpacious grounds of the Praga de Yaseo
da Gama, 'with the once famous Hieronymite Gonvent of Belem.
The **Co]ivento dos Jeronymos de BMm (t.e. Bethlehem)
occupies the site of a StameiCi Home and the Ermida of Nona Sen-
hora do BoiteUOj founded by Prince Henry the Navigator., Yasco
da Gama here spent the night before he started on his voyage of
discovery (July 8th, 1497), and here he was received by Emmanuel L
on his return in 1499. The king had vowed to erect here a convent
to the Virgin if the enterprize were successful, and he laid the
foundation-stone of the building within a few weeks of the ex-
plorer's return. The general design of the convent was furnished by
Boutacaj an architect of whose work we have other specimens at
Setubal (p. 646); its execution and details were due to the great
master Jodo de Castilho (ca. 1490-1581), who undertook the super-
iuteudenee of the building in 1517. In 1551 John III. discontinued
the work. The buildings are very extensive. To the S., next the
Tagus , is the church of Santa Maria , the atrium of which has dis-
appeared. To the W. of this lies the narrow S. wing, 606 ft. in length,
the groundfloor of which consists of an open hall, while the upper
contains the cells and dormitories of the monks. To the N. of the
church lie the Cloisters^ adjoined on the W. by the refectory, on the
E. by the sacristy and chapter-room. The buildings adjoining the
N. walk of the cloisters and the whole of a second court have van-
ished. On the height to the extreme N. stands the small Capella
dos Jeronymos,
On the. suppression of the convent in 1834, its buildings were
assigned to the Casa Pia , an orphanage established by Maria I. in
the castle of St. George (p. 528). The increasing number of pupils
necessitated (1859) large additions in the shape of bedrooms, school-
rooms, and baths ; and these were erected from a very unsatisfactory
design by the painters RamboU and Cinati. The upper floor of the
S. wing was restored in a kind of 'Emmanuel style' and provided
with a large central tower. The latter collapsed in 1878, and is to
be re-erected. In spite of these disfigurements, the edifice still
produces a very impressive effect, heightened by its open and lonely
situation on the bank of the Tagus and by the fine white limestone
from the Alcantara valley (p. 634) of which it is built.
The Abchitbctu&ai. Sttlb of the building is the so-called Arte Mano-
€lina^ or style of Emmanuel, which came into vogue about 1480 and is so
named after King Emmanuel I. (1496-1521), surnamed the Fortunate (o Ven-
-"90). To this great monarch is due a large number of similar buildings,
nly in Portugal itself but also in its colonies. It may be called a
Belem. LISBON. 55. Route. 537
kind of 'Gothic Transition style** and is a late and exuberantly rich de-
velopment of Gothic, the details of which have been largely borrowed
from the decorative forms of the Early Renaissance, from the sumptuous
buildings of India, and from the Moors (the last mainly in the S. part of
Portugal). This blended style is often fantastic and has a decided tend-
ency to over -elaboration , but it is interesting even in its extravagances.
It was ultimately replaced by the Renaissance style introduced by the
colony of French sculptors at Coimbra (ca. 1530), by the Jesuit style under
John III., and by the forms of the late-Renaissance of Italy favoured during
the period of the Spanish domination.
The church of *Santa Makia, at the S.E. angle of the monas-
tery, is the burial-place of Emmanuel and his successors, and is
celebrated for the gorgeous architecture of its S. facade. The superb
*Main Entrance, 39 ft. wide and 104 ft. high, was designed by Joao
de Castilho and is lavishly adorned with sculptures by Master Ni-
cholas, 'the Frenchman' (p. 567). It is framed by two buttresses
and a large circular arch , the latter surmounted by a statue of the
Virgin. Above is a wealth of pinnacles, niches, and balconies; and
at the very top, rising over the beautiful open parapet of the roof,
is a canopy surmounted by the cross of the Order of Christ (p. 561).
Below, on a corbel between the doors, is a statue of Vasco da Gama
(or Henry the Navigator?). Mr. Fergusson finds this portal *very
impressive and pleasing , in spite of all that can be said against
its taste', and he notes its similarity in design and detail to the
chapel at Boslln (see Baedeker's Oreat Britain). To the right and
left of the portal are lofty round-headed windows. The rest of the
S. facade is simpler, with the exception of the elaborate cornice and
parapet. The Choir, built by Diogo de Torsalva in 1551 to replace
the small original choir, is very plain in style.
The W. Portal, sadly mutilated on the construction of the por-
tico, is also freely adorned with sculptures by Nicholas the French-
man , including groups of King Emmanuel with St. Jerome and
Queen Maria with John the Baptist. Of the Towers of the W. facade
that to the S. has alone been completed , and it is disfigured with
an inharmonious dome added at the ^restoration' in place of the orig-
inal conical roof.
The Intbbiob, 302 ft. long and 82 ft. high, consists of a nave and aisles,
a high-choir at the W. end, a transept without aisles, and a semicircular
apse. The nave and aisles together are 74 ft. across ; the superb transept
is 95 ft. long and 62 ft. wide. There are two chapels on the groundfloor
of the towers, adjoined by other two below the projecting high-choir (coro
alio). The bold groining of the nave is supported by two massive piers at
the crossing and by six other slender and ornate pillars , the two W. of
which rise from the high-choir. Almost all the light is admitted through
the portal and through the S. windows with their fantastic rosettes ^ and
the general effect is pleasant and reposeful.
In the K. aisle are twelve Confessionals, which are also accessible from
the cloisters (see below). — The "S. chapel of the transept contains a
lifelike Figure of St. Jerome^ of which Philip II. is reported to have said
^Estoy esperando que me habla' (I am waiting for it to speak to me). —
The Renaissance capella-mdr is entered through a magnificent arch, with
richly adorned Pulpits on each side of it. To the right and left, in recesses
and borne by elephants, are the small Sarcophagi of Emmanuel and Queen
Maria, John IV, and Q««6» Catharine of Austria. The 'Cardinal-King' Henry,
538 BouU65. LISBON. BeUm,
JffoMo VI.j Catharine of Braganza (1638-1706), wife of Charles II. of Eng-
land, and other 'royal personages are interred in the chapel beyond the
capella-m6r. In the two side-chapels lie the eight Children of John III.
Here, too, is the cenotaph of King Sebcutian^ who disappeared without trace
at the battle of Al-Kasr al Eebir (1578). The remains of Vasco da Gama
and Camoens have lain here only since 1880. The scenes from the Passion,
in the apse, are by Christovao Lope* (1516-1600). — The Goro Alto (entr.,
see below) has beaatiful *Renaiiu€mee StcUU of 1560, with exqnisite panels.
The door next the W. portal of the church leads to the Casa Pia
and the cloisters (ring ; fee 150-200 rs.)*
The superb ♦♦Cloisters (Clauairo), the masterpiece of Joao de
Castilho, are in the form of a square of about 180 ft., with hlunted
coiners. They are surrounded hy a two-storied arcade and form the
main glory of the convent. The beautiful groining, the round-headed
windows with their graceful columns and exquisite tracery, and the
wealth of Renaissance ornamentation applied to all available sur-
faces combine to make a visit to these cloisters a thing never
to be forgotten. The present cloister-garth or garden was formerly
occupied (till 1833) hy a small pond with star-shaped islets, in the
midst of which rose the fountain now at the N.W. angle of the court.
A flight of steps adjoining the fountain ascends to the upper arcade
and to the coro alto of the church (see ahove).
The 8€icristy, at the S.E. comer of the cloisters, is a square room
with a Renaissance pillar resembling a candelabrum. — To the N.
of it is the old Chapter Boonij with a modern vaulting; since 1888
It has contained the tomb of Alexandre Herculano (1810-77), the
novelist and historian.
The Refectory^ on the W. side of the cloisters, a large rectangular
structure of solid masonry, is covered with fine reticulated groining.
The lower part of the waUs is lined with beautiful tiles of the 18th
century. At the S. end is a much-damaged Holy Family by Diaa,
To the K. of the cloisters is the Capella doe Jeronymos^ an almost cu-
bical structure with a good portal and a rectangular apse. The interior
ahould be visited for its fine vaulting and three tiled altars.
The modern portion of the Casa Pia includes eight large dormi-
tories (Dormitorios), an interesting bath-room (8ala dos BanhosJ,
and other apartments. The Sola dos ReU contains a series of por-
traits of the Portuguese kings down to John VI., omitting the Span-
ish *Intruso8*. The earlier ones are imaginary.
'Emmanuers face is pale, delicate, and intelligent, but not without a
trace of melancholy in its expression ; he recalls the Stuarts. The young
hero Sebastian stands with half-drawn sword, as if ready to spring from
the fiame into the room and thence into the world of action. In a dusky
comer is the efflgy of Pedro I., the Cruel or the Severe, as history names
him. The repulsive, frog-like visage of Joao VI. is also on show' (PHnce
Liehnowshy).
At the W. end of the uncompleted 8, Wing is the Mmeu Indus-
trial e Commercial de Lishoa (adm., see p. 517), opened in 1883.
About 3/4 M. to the S.W. of the^Pra^a de Vasco da Gama, on the
Tagus, stands the ♦Tower of Belem (Torre de Sao Vieexiie)^ one of
the most interesting structures in Lisbon. It was completed in 1620,
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in the reign of Emmanuel, for the protection of the Tagus, and is
said to be modelled on an old design by Qa/rcia da Resende. It stood
originally on a rocky islet in the stream , and its picturesque effect
has been somewhat marred by the silting up of the channel between
it and the laud and by the adjacent factories.
The lower part of the tower is adjoined by a kind of Platforv, pro-
jecting oyer the river and enclosed by a parapet with battlements and the
shields of the Knights of Christ; at the comers are six tasteful turrets, copied
from originals in India. The square Towbb itself is adorned on the river-
side by a balcony with a traceried parapet and round-headed windows,
and on the oUier sides by bow-windows. Higher up the tower is girt with
a passage (curseria) for the use of the defenders. The flat roof is adorned
with four Indian turrets.
The iMTBBioa (special permission necessary) contains seyeral square
rooms, all of which have been repeatedly restored. The 8ala Btgia pos-
sesses curious acoustic properties. The Dungeom in the basement receive
light and air only through gratings in the floor of the casemates. Under
U iguel they were filled, like the Limoeiro (p. 528), with political prisoners.
The view from the platform is superb.
From the tower we may proceed, passing a fort and several
bathing-houses, to the station of PedrouQos (p. 540), or we may
return to Belem and ferry thence to Trafaria (p. 540).
56. Environs of Lisbon.
a. Lumiar and Odivellas.
This is a pleasant drive of 2-3 hrs. (carriage, see p. 615). There is a
tramway to Lumiar (Ko. 3, p. 516).
We leave Lisbon by the Porta de 8do SebcLsti&o da Pedreita, at
the end of the Rua de Dona Estephania (PI. G, 1), and proceed to
the N. along the road to Torres Vedras (p. 551). In Campo Pequeno
lies the new Bull Ring of Lisbon (p. 517). Campo Orande^ with a
church dedicated to the Magi and a fine promenade laid out at the
end of the 18th cent, by Count Linhares , is much frequented on
Thurs. and Sun. by the fashionables of Lisbon. — A little farther
on is —
Lumiar, celebrated for the beautiful ^Quintas or parks of the
DuquedePalmella, the Marques deAngeja, and the Marques d' OlhSo.
The public is freely admitted ; tickets for the llrst-named park may
also be obtained at the Lisbon palace of the duke, in the Rate. —
Farther on , about 5 M. from the Porta de Sao Sebastiao , is the
Quinta de Nova Cintra, a favourite pleasure-garden. A little beyond
this, to the W. of the road, lies —
Odivellas, with a Cistercian nunnery founded in 1305 by King
Diniz, who is interred In its church. The choir contains three pic-
tures ascribed to Velasco (p. 567). At the portal is a Turkish
cannon-ball from the siege of Ormuz , sent hither by the Spanish
commandant, Alvaro de Noronha.
Beyond Odivellas the road leads vi& (10 M.) Lowes to the Cdbeza de
ifontachique (1332 ft.), on the 'inner line' of the fortifications of Torres Ve-
540 Route 66. GAGILHAS. Environs
drM, and to pQvoa da Oalega (476 ft.) and the Ataiaia (7u«ar(1090 ft.). It then
descends rU Enxara do* Cavalteiroi. Marmelo* Bdo SebatiiSo^ and Mugideira
to (68 M.) Torre$ Vedrat (p. 661).
b. Caeillias.
steamer from the Caes do Sodr^ to Caeilhasy see p. 516. In Cacilhas
omnibuses , carriages , and donkeys are in waiting (bargaining necessary).
Caeilhas^ situated on a promontory immediately opposite Lisbon,
is a small harbour with copious springs , where ships lay in their
supplies of fresh water. A road ascends hence to AlmadA. From
the Fort and the church of 8So Paulo we enjoy a fine ♦View of
Lisbon (best by morning-light], of the topography of which we here
gain an excellent idea.
Palmella and Seiubalf see p. 646.
From Almada we may proceed to the W. vii Pragal and throngh the
wine-growing district of Cmp<ariea to (6 M.) Trafaria, Uie home of the bold
fishermen who supply the markets of Lisbon. Their boats (savHrot) are
so constructed as to sail either backwards or forwards. A little to the
£. of Trafaria lies the Leuar^tQ^ erected in 1867 after the epidemic of
yellow fever. The sandy beach between Trafaria and the Torre de JBngio
(p. 641) is devoid of interest. From Trafaria we can cross to Belem (p. f&S).
0. Estoril and Casoaes.
IBM. Railway (8-10 trains daUy) in IVihr. (fares 480, 370, 250 rs.;
return-tickets issued). Trains start from the Ca€t de Sodri (p. 516); and
passengers in the W. quarters of the city may also take the train at the
BHagao de Bantos or Alcantara-Mar (to the W. of PI. A, 4). ' There are
good yiew-carriages of the first and second class. Views to the left.
The train skirts the Rua Vinte e Quatro de Julho (p. 534) and
the new harbour-works. To the right is the small EstoQdo de Santos
(p. 614). We then pass the mouth of the Alcantara (p. 534) and
reach Aledntara-Mar,
Beyond this point the train continues to skirt the Tagus, running
mainly on newly reclaimed soil and affording good views of the S.
bank. 3 M. Junqueira (p. 634); 38/4 M. Belem (p. 535). On the
height to the right is the Palace of Ajuda (p. 535) ; to the left, across
the Tagus, is the'Lazareto (see above). — Farther on we pass the Lisbon
Gas Works and (left) the Torre de Belem (p. 538), with its fort, and
reach the small bathing-place of PedrouQos^ the extreme W. part of
'Greater Lisbon' (p. 519). On the left bank of the river is seen Trafaria
(see above). — 51/2 M. Algis, with good sea-bathing, Is the terminus
of the tramway-line (p. 516). 6V4 M. Ddfundo and (71/2 M.) Cruz
Qv£brada lie at the entrance of the pretty Jamor Valley.
* The hills of Estremadura now approach the expanding Tagus.
CaxiaSj the next station, has a royal palace. To the left is a fort. —
At the favourite sea-bathing resort of (9Y4M.) Pa^o ^Areos (R6t, Casa
de Bizoma) we enjoy a good retrospect of the Torre de Belem. To
the right are the hills of Gintra. To the left we see the mouth of
the Tagus and the sea-coast of Portugal, as far S. as the Cabo de
piehel.
of Lisbon. CASCAES. 56. Route. 541
The Sntrada do Teio, or Month of the Tagns, is divided into the
Corredor (N.) and the Barra Qrande (S.) by a reef named the LiUU C€h
ehopo. On the Cachopo Orande, as the ever-growing sand-dunes to the S.
are named, stands Fort Lcurengo do Bugio, with a lighthouse, 86 ft. high,
the light of which is visible for 16 sea-miles. Fort 8ao JuliSoy built by
Philip II. of Spain on a point of the N. coast, has a lighthouse 150 ft. high.
The train now runs slightly inland to (IOY2M.) Odrtu, with the
oi-devant country-house of Pombal. To the left aie the old and new
forts of Sao Juliio and (farther on) the telegraph building of the
submarine cable to the Canaries and Brazil. — Beyond (12 M.)
CarcaveUos, which is noted for its wine, we traverse a monotonous
hill-district, with views of the sea to the left. I2V2 M. Parede ; 13 V2 M.
8So JoOo de Estoril; 15 M. Estonia with sea and alkaline baths. —
15 V2 M. Xont d'Estoril (H6t, Mont d'Estoril ; Restaurant Club, with
bedrooms and view), charmingly situated on the slope of the hill,
amid groves of pine, eucalyptus, and palms, contains many villas
of Lisbon merchants.
16 M. Cascaes (H6t, Central, H6t. Olobo, both unpretending), a
favourite sea-bathing place, 1 M. to the S.W. of Mont d'Estoril, has
the country-residence of the Duchess of Palmella.
A pleasant excursion may be made hence to the *Boeea do Inferno
Cmouth of heir). 1V«M. to the S.W., a' row of cliffs, 80 ft. high, the
lower part of which has been hollowed out by the sea. The surf dashes
against them with a roar like thunder, especially at high-tide and with
the wind from the S.W.
Two good roads (that to the E. the shorter but more monotonous)
connect Cascaes with Gintra (see below). A bridle-path, diverging from
the W. road, leads to the Caibo da Boca (p. 5A5).
d. Clntra.
171/3 M. Railway (6-8 trains daily) in I-IV4 hr. (fares 620, 490, 350 rs.;
there and back 1000, 700, 600 rs.). Trains start from the Central Railway
Station (p. 514). Carriages have sometimes to be changed at Cacem. the
junction of the line to Mafra and Leiria (B. 69). — Driving from Lisbon
to Cintra (16 M. ; carriages, see p. 616) and from Cintra to Mafra (12Vs M.)
is not recommended.
From Lisbon to (3V2 M.) CampoUde, see p. 514. — The train now
ascends to the N.W. through the valley of the Alcantara. 4^/2 M.
8So Domingos; 71/2 M. Bemflcaj with a Dominican convent, founded
in 1399, restored after the earthquake of 1755, and containing the
remains of Joio de Castro (p. 545). We now run towards the W.,
skirting the arches of the old Lisbon aqueduct (p. 525) and passing
under it near (8 M.) Porcalhota (420 ft.). The Jamor i& crossed. —
91/2 M. Quelus'Bellas,
A road descends from the S.E. through the valley of the Jamor,
passing (8/4 M ) the village of Queluz de Cima, to the royal chateau of
ftnelus de Baizo, built by Peter III. In the Sola de Bom Quijote, adorned
with 18 scenes from Cervantes' romance, is shown the bed in which Pe-
ter IV. (p. 576) died. The Chapel contains an agate column, presented
by Pius VIII. Beautiful park.
The village of Bellas (480 ft.), 2 X. to the N. of the railway, with the
beautiful quinta of the Conde de Pombeiro, is visited for the sake of its
iron spring. A little to the E. is the Outeiro (698 ft.), a good point of view.
1-2 per8.
3-4 pers.
400 m.
500 rs.
1200 „
1700 „
2100 „
2600:
2000,
2500^
2500,
3ooo;
542 Route so. CINTRA. Environs
At (13 M.) Cacem our line diverges to the left from the main line
to Mafra and Leiria (R. 69). The country becomes more hilly ; eu-
calypti, pines, and olives are passed. Beyond a cutting the hills of
Cintra appear to the left. — 17^2 M. Cintra,
Cintra. — Hotels (comp. p. 502). *Bol. Laurmce, at the W. end of
the village, English landlady, * Hotel Netto^ with & small garden, B. 500,
B. 200, d^j. with wine 700, D. with wine POO, pens. 1600-2000 vs. (prices
pnsted up in the rooms)^ *£[ot. Nw»€9y ac^oining the Palacio- Beal, pens.
1600-2000 rs. — Priva'e Lodgings for a long stay, easily obtained.
Cabs (excellent vehicles with two horses).
From or to the Bail. Station
To MofuerraU
- . and back, with stay of 2 hrs.
To CoUares
„ „ and back, with stay of 2 hrs.
Omnibus from the rail, station to the town 40 rs.
Donkeys (Burrinhot) abound. The usual charge for the trip to Gabo
de Boca or for the round trip to Pena, Gastello dos Mouros, Monserrate,
and back to Cintra is 103-600 rs. (bargaining necessary); the driver re-
ceives the same amount, with a gratuity of 100 rs.
Bull King (Profa de Touro$)y near the railway-station.
Chief Attraetions. It is possible, though somewhat fatiguing, to visit
the Palacio Real and make the above-mentioned Round Trip (4-5 hrs.) in
one day, returning to Lisbon by an evening-train (provisions and an
abundant supply of small change necessary). It is, however, much pre-
ferable to devote two days to Cintra. 1st Day : Palcuio Real^ Pena^ Castello dot
Mouros. 2nd Day: Monserrate. Collaret, Cdbo da Roca. In the proper
season Cintra will be found a delightful spot for a stay of some duration.
— The cards of admission to the Palacio Beal and the Castello da Pena
»re issued at the Necessidades Palace (p. 533) at Lisbon. When the court
is at Cintra, the palaces are shown on Sun. only.
Cintra (680 ft.), a town with 3800 inhab., lies at the N. base of
the Serra de Cintrtty the Monies Lunae of the Romans, on a promon-
tory flanked by two ravines. It is huried amid woods of evergreen
oaks and pines, and is surrounded by numerous pleasant country
houses. To the E. it Is adjoined hy the Arrahalde fsuburb') de Sdo
Pedro. Immediately over the town rises a rocky crag crowned by the
Moorish castle (p. 544). Beyond this rises the Pena (1735 ft. ; p. 544),
the second-highest summit of the range. The situation somewhat
resembles that of Frascati and other places in the Alban Mts., but
has the additional advantages of a more luxuriant vegetation and
the propinquity of the sea. Byron calls Cintra a 'Glorious Eden',
Southey writes of it as *the most blessed spot in the habitable globe',
and a Spanish proverb says *dejar a Cintra, y ver al mundo entero,
es, con verdad, caminar en capuchera' (*to see the world, and yet
leave Cintra out, Is, verily, to go blindfold about').
Cintra was fortified by the Moors, and after the conquest of Lis-
bon (1147) became the summer-residence of the Portuguese kings.
King Charles now occupies the Castello da Pena, while the Palacio
Real is assigned to the Queen Dowager Maria Pia. The town sub-
-^Ists almost wholly on the court and the visits of strangers.
of Lisbon, CINTRA. 56. Route, bid
The railway- station U about */2 M. from the PaA9A db Ointra,
the centre of the little town, with a late-Gothic Pelourinko (p. 631)
of stone, now used as the adornment of a fountain , and the main
entrance of the royal palace.
The *Palacio Beal (bell by the staircase In the court to the left,
adjoining the archway; fee to *almoxarife' 200 rs.) was built in the
14-15th cent by John I., Affonso V., and John II., on the site of
the Moorish palace. The K. wing, the Sala das Armas, and the Bath
Grotto date from the time of Emmanuel the Fortunate. The older
parts were erected by Mozarabic workmen in a Moorish style re-
sembling that of the buildings of Evbra, and show a mixture of Moorish
and late-Gothic elements ; the later parts are in the 'Emmanuel'
style (p. 536). The most characteristic features of the exterior are
the two prominent conical kitohen-chimneys , the horseshoe and
cusped arches of the Moorish windows, and the Moorish battlemented
parapet. The rich mural tiles and the covered wooden ceilings of the
interior are also an inheritance from the Moorish period.
In front of the central structure is a Platfobm or Terrace, on the
left side of which is a fine ForUil in the Italian early-Benaissance style,
attributed to Andrea Sansovino (?).
First Floor. The Waiting Room contains an Italian ^Chimney Piece
(fogao) in the Renaissance style, formerly at Almeirim (p. 512) and wrongly
ascribed to Michael Angelo. — The prettily furnished Sola dos Gysne* is
so called from the 27 swans on the ceiling. — The so-called Cabinet is the
room in which King Sebastian the Desired (^o desejado'), the ^Charles XII.
of Portugar, decided on the ill-starred campaign against Morocco (June 24th,
1578). It contains his arm-chair and the bench of his councillors, covered
with tiles adorned with vine- tendrils. — The Sala da* Pegcu is named
from the magpies (pegas) painted on the frieze and ceiling, holding in
their beaks labels with the words *por bem"* ('in honour"*; honi soit qui
mal y pense). John I., surprized by his wife Philippa of Lancaster in
the act of kissing one of the ladies-in-waiting, is said to have excused
himself with these words, and afterwards had the paintings made to re-
prove the gossip of the court.
Second Floor. The Sala das Armas or dos Cervos is a square apart-
ment, lined with blue tiles and covered by a lofty octagonal dome of
timber (restored in the 17th cent.). The centre of the ceiling contains
the arms of the King and Infantes, surrounded by those of 72 noble Portu-
guese families of the time of Emmanuel, painted on shields hanging from
the necks of stags. Those of the Aveiros and Tavoras (see p. 535) have
been obliterated. Bound the frieze are the words 'Com estas e outras taes
Devem de ser conservadas, Pois com esfor^os leaes Services foram gan-
hadas' ('As these by courage and by loyal services were gained. By such
and others like them must they be maintained'). — The Chapel has fine
barrel-vaulting of wood. Adjacent is the Room in which the luckless
King Affonso VI- was confined after his deposition (1667) and finally
died on Sept. 12th, 16^3, while listening to the mass through an opening
in the wall.
The tasteful Casa d'Agua, or Bathing Grotto, acljoining the handsome
Patio^ hides various watery surprizes for the unwary visitor. The artistic
Conduit, which runs throughout the palace, is said to be a Moorish work.
The ExcuKsioN to the Pena and the Moorish Castlb takes
2V2-3 hrs. The pleasant and shady bridle-path passes (right) the
old convent of Trindade and the (left) suburb of Sdo Pedro (p. 542).
The trees are mainly pines, interspersed with a few eucalypti. The
541 Route 56. CINTRA. Environs
donkeys are left at the Porta ^incipal of tlie park, which contains
cedars, yews, elms, siWer firs, hydrangeas, and other yarieties of
ornamental timber. A guide (not indispensable; ^00-300 rs.) ac-
companies the visitor to the castle and then down to a side-gate to
the W., where the donkeys will be fonnd waiting.
On the rocky summit of the Pena (1735 ft.) stood a con vent built
by Emmanuel in 1503 and used as a prison for the monks of Belem
(p. 536). The King-Coruort Ferdimmd of Cobwrg (p. 520) erected
in its place the Cattello da Pena, a reproduction of a mediasval
castle from the design of Col, Eschwege, and couTeited the hillside
into a charming park.
Two gates and a rocky archway form the entrance to the castle, which
is surrounded by a gallery affording beautiful views. The main tower is
a copy of the Torre de Belem (p. 638).
The iNTSBios (castellan 15O-30O rs.) is entered by a vestibule with a
pyramidal tower, formerly the Convent Church. The wall-tiles and retic-
ulated vaulting deserve attention. The magnificent ^Renaissance Altar
of marble and alabaster, with scenes from the Passion, comes from the
convent of Belem and is by Nicolas Chatranez (1532). Adjacent are the
old two-storied Cloittart. — The castle itself contains little of interest.
The SeUa de Veadoe , adorned with fine antlers , includes a specimen of
Brouwer among a number of worthless pictures. The huge cupola over
this room affords a fine ^Panorama of the province of Estremadura, from
Gape Espichel on the 8.E. to the Berlengas (p. 651) on the N. To the £.
are seen a few buildings of Lisbon and the plain to the S. of the Tagns.
The grandest feature in the view is, however, the ocean, which here
almost always dashes against the beach in huge and resounding billows.
To the S. is the Crut Alta (1770 ft.), the highest summit of the Serra
de Gintra; more to the W. is the Cabo da Boca.
We descend through a luxuriant bosquet of camelias, rhododen-
drons, and araucarias to the above-mentioned side • gate, which
opens on the road leading f^om S&o Pedro to CoUares along the
Serra. In about 10 min. we reach the ruins of the —
*CaBtello d08 HouroB, a singular Moorish stronghold, consisting
of two separate parts, of which that to the S. is the higher. A double
wall, fteely restored, ascends to both. In spring everything is cov-
ered with a verdant garb of creeping myrtle. The view is fine,
embracing Cintra, the granite-strewn heights of the Serra, and the
lofty Pena.
The keeper (80-100 rs.) points out a Moorish Cietem (alleged to be
a bath) near the upper gate, the water in which never varies from a depth
of 4 ft. 3 inches. Outside the gate, to4he left, is a small Moeqve.
From the Moorish Castle we may either return to Cintra or follow
the Caminho de Collares to Monserrate.
The *Caminho de Collabes, the winding road leading along
the ridge to (3 1/2 M.) Collares, is the favourite promenade of Cintra.
It is flanked with fine evergreens and passes many attractive villas.
Below lies the Vdrzea, the fertile plain of the Collares. We soon
reach the Campo de Setiaes, so named from its sevenfold echo. The
Palacio de SetiaeSj in the French style of the 18th cent., with a
-^ark (views), now belongs to the Conde de Azambuja.
of Lisbon, OINTRA. 66. RouU, 545
On Aug. SCth, 1808, Qen: Dalrymph here concluded with Q«n. Junot
the inexplicable ^Convention of Gintra% which allowed the French army,
greatly weakened by Wellington's victories at Roliga (p. 561) and Vimeiro
(p. 561) and largely unfit for service, to take shipping for France without
hindrance. Dalrymple was immediately removed from his post by the
British government, and Byron has devoted some scathing lines to the
event in 'Ghilde Harold' (I, 24-26).
In about 10 min. more we reach tlie *Penha Verde, the country
home of JoSo de Castro (1500-1548), the fourth Viceroy of India and
defender of Diu, who died here in poverty and neglect and is
interred at Bemflca (p. 541).
The first Orcmffe Tree* brought from the B. Indies are said to have
been planted in the beautiful park, whence they spread over the whole
of S. Europe. The Italians still often call them portogalli. — We ascend
through shady paths, with grottoes and terraces, to the chapel of Santa
Maria do Monte^ situated on the highest point of the garden. This grace-
ful circular building, in the Renaissance style, is entered by a door with
a Sanscrit inscription. The inside walls are lined with beautiful tiles.
Over the altar is a marble relief of the Holy Family. The small and
rocky Monte das AMgarat (with a Latin inscription by a grandson of Castro^s)
was all the modest hero sought as a reward for his defence of Diu. ^
Farther on are the Quinta da Bella Vista and (2 M. from Ointra)
the celebrated **(liii2ita de Honserrate (adm. 200 rs. ; name in-
scribed in a book kept by the gate-keeper). The grounds of this villa
surpass everything of the kind in the Iberian Peninsula in the
luxuriance of its vegetation, for which all the ends of the earth
have been ransacked. They were originally laid out by Beckford of
Fonthill and. now belong to another Englishman, known by his
Portuguese title of Visconde Cook de Monserrate. The place is a
botanic garden in the grandest sense, a park that unites the height
of culture with the wildness of a granite mountain. The configura-
tion of the ground affords a charming variety of hill and dale, the
gem of the whole being the gorge to the S.W. of the 'Palace', with its
giant-ferns. Copious brooks make it possible to keep the turf in
English-like perfection, even on slopes exposed to the full power
of the sun. The park commands distant views of the ocean, CoUares,
and other places. — The Talacio' (adm. 200 rs.), a fantastic struc-
ture in an Oriental style, contains a number of curiosities.
Farther on the road descends, vi^ Eugaria and Oegaro^ to Col-
lares (128 ft. ; Eden Hotet)y a village celebrated for its wine. Ad-
jacent is the Tanque da Vdrzea, a small irrigation-reservoir (p. 242).
The excursion to the Cabo da Roca takes 3-4 hrs. from Collates.
A bridle-path leads to the S.W. across the Serra, the highest points
of which here are the Monje (1600 ft.), the Picotos (1560 ft.), and
the Ad/renunes (1380 ft.), to Azoia (813 ft.), which is quite near
the cape.
The *Cabo da Boca (465 ft.) or Focinho da Roeay the Roman
Promontorixjon Magnum or Cynthiae and the English Rock of Lisbon^
Is the W. spur of the Serra de Cintra and the westernmost point of
Continental Europe. Most travellers content themselves vdth visit-"
ing the more accessible Pedra de Alvidratj an almost perpendicular
Baedeker's Spain and PortugaL 35
546 RauU57, PALMELLA.
cliff to the N. of tbe cape, the foot of which is washed by the waves.
Lads horn the neighbouring Almocegema often climb up and down
this crag in the hope of a ^pataco'. Near it is the Fojo, a cavern
forming the breeding-place of innumerable sea-fowl.
From the Gabo da Roca to CatcaeSj see p. 541.
The Praia da» Ma^atf a fine beach 2 M. to the W. of Collares,
is another favourite point for excursions.
High up in the moantaini, about 3 H. to the S.W. of Honserrate, is
the once famous, but now ruinous Oonvento da Oorti9a, so named from
the panels of cork with which the damp rocky walls were covered. The
convent was founded by Alvaru d« Castro in 15(0 and was afterwards oc-
cupied by St. HonoriuSf who died here in 1596. The most interesting
features are the open refectory and the open court, with the cells of the
monks hewn out of the surrounding wall of rock.
About iVs M. to the S.E. of Cintra, on the road to Cascaei (p. 541), is
the pretty QuMa da Ramalhao,
The Road to Havka leads from Cintra, to the K.E., to (5V2 M.) Pero-
Finhelro^ with large marble quarries, where it unites with the road from
Lisbon. It then descends to the N. to CheMro* (197 ft.}, on the brook of
that name, whence it ascends via Jgreja A'cva^ finally making a wide curve,
fb the barren plateau of (12Va H.) Mqfra (p. 519).
07. From Liflbon to Evora and Ertremoz.
104 M. Bailwat (two through-trains daily) in ^^i-V/t hrs. (fares 3100,
3690. 1990 rs.) \ to (72>/2 M.) Eoora in 4V4-53/4 hrs. (fares 2410, 1920, ISiOrs.).
— The trains start from the Ettagao do Barrebro (p. 514), on the S. bank
of the Tagus, to which passengers cross by steamer from the Pra^a do
Gommercio in *j^\iT. (comp. p.516). — Railway-restaurants at Cata Branca
and Eftora.
Litboriy see p. 514. A fine retrospect of the city is enjoyed in
crossing the river. The pier of the steamer at Barreiro is close to
the rail, station, and passengers and luggage are transferred from
the one to the other without difficulty.
From Barreiro, which also commands a fine view of the bay and
of Lisbon, the train at first runs towards the E. — I3/4M. Lavradio;
33/4 M. Alhos Vedros; 51/2 M. Moita. — 10 M. Pinhal Novo, the
junction of a branch-line to Palmella and Setubal.
Fbom Pinhal Novo to Sktdbal, 8 H., railway (5 trains daily) In
28-27 min. (fares 250, 200, 140 rs.). >- 41/3 M. Palmella, taken by Aflfonso
Henriques from the Moors in 1147, passed into the hands of the Knights
of Santiago in 1186 and afterwards became the seat of the Dukes of Pal-
mella. Its massive but much dilapidated walls date from the Moorish
period. The top of the castle-hill commands a most extensive view,
reaching to the hills of Lisbon and the mountains of Cintra (p. 542) on
the K.W., the Serra da Arrablda on the S.W., and the Bay of Setubal
on the 8.
Setubal iHot, Setubalente; British vice-consul), 31/2 M. to the S. of Pal-
mella, called St. Yv€$ by the French and St. Ubes by the English, is a town
of 17,000 inbab., situated on a harbour inferior to that of Lisbon alone, and
carries on a large trade in salt, wine, oranges, and pilchards. It was the
birthplace of the poet Socage (1766-1805), to whom a monument has been
erected in one of the pracas. — On the S. side of the bay lies * TroicC. be-
lieved to be the ruins of the Roman Cetobr'tga^ which flourished 90J-40O A. D.
There is a good account of the remains in Omald Craw/vrd't *Portogal,
'>ld and New\ — An excursion may be made to the convent of Arrablda^
EVORA. 57. Route. 547
near whieb is a fine stalactite cavern (Portinho de Jrrabida)^ t^at may be
entered by boat.
The train continues to traverse a monotonous district, with a
few pine-woods. From (20 M.) Poceirdo a diligence runs to (5 hrs.)
Alcaeer do Sal, a salt-making place with 2500 Inhab. and some re-
mains of Roman baths. — Beyond (26 M.) Pegffes the railway bends
to the S.W. 36 M. Vendas Novas. — 47 M. Montemor Novo^ a
small town of 4000 inhab., is picturesquely situated on the Cauha,
about 6 M. to the N.E. of the railway (omn.). About 6 M. to the
N.E., on the way to ArrayoUiSf is a fine Dolmen, descrited.by Borrow
(*Bible in Spain', chap^ vii).
66V2 M. Casa Branca (Rail. Restaurant) is thd junction where
our line diverges to the left (N.E.) from the main line to Beja
(R. 58). Carriages are changed. — 69V2 M. Monte das Flores,
72V2 M. Evora (910 ft.; Hot, Fabaguiuo; RaU. Restaurant), a
town of 16,000 inhab., the capital of the province of Alemtejo, and
the &ee of an archbishop, is charmingly situated in a fertile plain
surrounded by mountains. The streets are narrow and dirty, but the
city contains numerous remains of great historical and archsolog-
ical interest It is still surrounded by its old walls, now in a very
ruinous condition, and there are some modern fortifications.
Portuguese chroniclers place the foundation of Evora, the ancient
Eboroy in the 6th cent. B.C., but its authentic history begins with its
capture by Quintus Sertorius in B. G. 80. It soon became a prosperous
Roman colony and was named by Julius Caesar liberaHtas Julia. It fell
into the hands of the Moors in 715, but was recovered from them about
1150 by Oiraldo, sumamed Sem Pavor ('sans peur").
The *Cathedral of Evora is an interesting early-Gothic structure,
built in 1186-1204 and restored at the close of the 13th century.
The richly decorated choir was rebuilt in 1721 by Ludwig, the
architect of the Convent of Mafra (see p. 660). The transept has
fine doorways and rose-windows. — The church of Sdo FrancUco,
dating from the end of the 16th cent., is also interesting, and con-
tains some old paintings ascribed to Gran Vasoo (?). Its crypt is
lined with skulls and bones. — The Archiepiseopat Library contains
25,000 vols., 2000 MSS., a collection of old paintings of little
value, and a superb enamelled ^Crucifix, said to have belonged to
Francis I. of France.
The most important of the Roman remains is the *Temple of
Diana (68 ft. long and 40 ft. wide), with its fine Corinthian columns.
Its platform is partly supported by a Roman wall, and a little to
the W. is a Roman archway. The so-called *Aqueduct of SertoriuSj
2 M. in length, was substantially rebuilt in the 16th century.
Beyond Evora the railway leads to the N. and afterwards to the
N.E. through a hilly upland plateau, the watershed between the
Guadiana and the Tagus. Several viaducts are crossed, and several
unimportant stations are passed.
104M: B»treiiioa(1510ft.; Inns, indifferent), a town of 7500
inhab., at the base of a hill crowned by a once formidable p-ast'
36 •
548 Boute68. BEJA.
Ettittmol ii funoQB for its porous red earthenware Jars, used through-
out Iberia as water-coolers.
Ifear Estremos are Ameixal and MonUi Claroty where the Forti&giiese
defeated the Spaniards in 1688 and 1866, aided in the first instonce by a
body of British troops. — About 11 M. to the 8.B. lies Villa Vifoaa, a
town of SfiOO inhab., with a palace of the Dakes of Braganza, containing
a number of family-portraits. Xear the town is the CouladUy or Dueal Forest^
surrounded by a wall 16 M. in circumference. Villa Vi(osa gare its name
to a militory order, esUblished in 1818. About 17 M. farther on is Oltven^a,
a town with SOOOinhab. in the Spanish province ofBadaJoi.
Estremos is about 28 M. from Elvas (p. 60B^ railway under construc-
tion) and 17 H. from the nearest point of the Spanish frontier.
08. From Lisbon to Beja and Faro.
211 M. Railway (one through-train daily) in lH/t hrs. (fares 6640,
6210, 3Td0rt.)i to (95Vs M.) BeJa (twice daily) in 6V4-BV4 hrs. (fares 3110,
3460, 1770 rs.). There is also a local train from Lisbon to Be^a. — Rail-
way-restaurants at Cata Blanca and Btja.
From LiOxm (Barreiro) to (667s M.) Cata Branca, see R. 57.
Beyond this point our line continues to run towards the S.E. and
soon crosses the Ale&eowu. 64 M. Alc&eovas; the small and ancient
town lies about 3 M. to the S. W. — • 68 M. Vienna; 72V2 M. Villa
Novoi 77i/2 M. Alvito^ with some Roman (?) remains ; 86 M. Cuba.
96 V2 M. Beja (925 ft..; Hot, Vista AUgrc), the Roman Pax Julia
or Paea, is the see of a bishop and is well situated on a hill. Pop.
8400. Its WaUi, still preserved on the N. side, are believed to be
partly of Roman origin. On the S. side is a Roman Gateway. The
Castle, built by King Diniz (ca. 13001 is one of the most character-
istic mediaval edifices in Portugal ^ne view from the top). The
Cathedral has been thoroughly modernized, but the church of
Nuestra Senhora de CofK^ifdo is more interesting.
From Bbja to Pias, 26 H., railway in li/s hr. (fares 800, 620, 400 rs.).
— The only intermediate station of any note is (18 M.) Berpa (Hotel, poor),
a town of 5600 inhab., situated about 1 H. to the £. of the Ouadiana and
2 M. to the 8. of the railway. It was known to the Romans and was
once of greater importance than now. — 26 M. Pitu is a small place about
10 M. from the Spanish frontier (railway to Tarsi$ and ffuelva projected).
Beyond Beja the main line runs towards the S.W. 106 M.
Outeiro; 110 M. Figueirinha ; 119 M. Carregueiro ; 12472 M. Case-
vel To the S.E. of (I28V2 M.) Ourique lies the Campo de Ourique,
where Affonso Henriques defeated the Moors in 1139. 133 M.
Panoias; 136V2 ^> Garoaio. Farther on the railway crosses the
Serra Calderdo by means of a long tunnel and then descends to-
wards the coast-district. 140 M. 8an Martinho das Amoreiras;
161 M. Odemira, a small town on the river Mira, with 300 in-
habitants. The train here turns to the S.E. and crosses the Mira. —
168 M. Savoia Monehique (inn), a town of 5000 inhab., pictur-
esquely situated at the N. foot of the Serra de Monehique (2960 ft.).
Various ascents and excursions may be made from this point. The
^Hhs of Monehique (1490 ft), about 13 M. to the S. of the station,
he heart of the mountains, have long been famous for curing
MAFRA. 5.9. Route, 549
cutaiieoas diseases. — The line now ascends through a hilly and
picturesque country, crossing several viaducts, to the PorteUa dos
Termos, between the Serra de Monchique on the right and the Serra
da Me%quUa on the left, and again descends to (171 M.) San Marcos
de Serra, It then crosses the Odelouca and, beyond a long tunnel,
the Silves. Beyond (180 M.) SSo Bartholomeu de Messines we
descend rapidly to the coast-plain, crossing the Algo%. 190 M.
Albuferia ; the little town lies on the coast, considerably to the S.
of the 'railway. — 196 M. Boliqueime. — 201 M. LonW (Inns), a
prosperous town with 18,872 inhab., who are actively engaged in
the making of baskets. It still retains its Moorish walls and gate-
ways and the ruins of a Moorish castle.
211 M. Faro (^Central Hotel ; British and U, S. vice-consuls), the
capital of a district of the same name and the see of a bishop, is a
small seaport with 9000 inhab,, situated near the mouth of the small
Rio Fermoso, It was taken from the Moors by Alfonso III.* in 1260
and was destroyed by the English in 1596. The chief exports are fruit,
wine, cork, sumach, baskets, and anchovies. The harbour, which is
protected by sandy islets, is spacious but shallow. Faro possesses a
handsome Cathedral^ some other churches and convents, and a Mili-
tary Hospital. The old Cast^is surrounded with Moorish fortifications.
59, From Lisbon to Alfarellos (Coimhra) Yi& Mafra,
Vallado, and Leiria.
140 M. Railway (one througb-frain daily) in 81/4 hrs. (fares 4720, 3680,
2630 rs.)i to iiafra (23 M.) in VI2 hr (fares 740, 580, 420 rs.); to Vallado
(84 M.) in 5 hrs. (fares 2690, 2100, 1500 rs ). There is a local train from
Lisbon to Amieiray and also one from Amieira to Alfarelloi. Trains start
from the Central Station (p. 514), and through carriages also from Aleantara-
Mar (p. 54^). — No railway-restaurant en route. — Passengers from the N.,
who wish to visit Cintra (p. 542), change trains at Cacem. From Mafra
Station a diligence (200 rs.) plies to (6 M.) ilaSra; from Vallado (p. 552) an
omnibus (100 rs.) runs to (3V2 H.) Aleoba^a (p. 563).
From Lisbon to (13 M.) Cacem, see pp. 541, 542. — Our line
here turns to the N. To the left we have picturesque glimpses of the
Castello da Pena (p. 544). — 18 M. Sahugo, on the highroad from Lis-
bon to Mafra. — We traverse a monotonous plain and ascend along
the FareUo to (23 M.^ Mafra, the station for the little town of that
name, which lies 6 M. to the N.W. (diligence, see above).
Hafira (777 ft. ; Hot. Moreira, pens. 1000-1500 rs., fair) is cel-
ebrated for its CoKVBNT, which is due to the monastic proclivities of
John V. This monarch had vowed, in the case of the birth of an
heir to the throne, to erect a magnificent new structure ^on the site
of the poorest convent in Portugal'. His son (afterwards Joseph I.)
was bom in 1715, and two years later the grateful father laid the
foundation-stone of the new monastery t. Until the completion of
t The exact date (Nov. 17th, 1717) is said to have been selected
account of the triple occurrence of the number 17*
550 Route 59. MAFRA. From Lisbon
the work in 1730 a daily average of 14,700 labourers were employed,
and the number is said to hayo risen at times to 45,000. The architects
were Johatm F^riedrich Ludwig of Ratisbon, reported to have originally
been a goldsmith, and his son Johatm Peter. The cost, said to have
amounted to 54 million cruzados (over 4,000,000 i.), went far to
bring about the financial ruin of the country.
The Convent of Mafra, the ^Escorial of Portugal*, consists, like
the latter, of a church, a monastery, and a palace. In addition there
were barracks, now used as a cadet academy. The enormous four-
storied building lies to the £. of the town, forming a rectangle
820 ft. long and 720 ft. wide. Huge pavilions project from the
corners of the W. facade. The centre is occupied by the Ckurehj
with a large dome over the crossing and two towers (224 ft. high)
flanking the facade. To the S. is the Rediencia da £atnfta, to the
N. the Residencia do Bei; to the £., behind the choir, lies the Con-
vent, with its 300 cells.
The building is said to contain 9 courts, 5200 doors, and 2500
windows. A walk of even several hours amid its chambers hardly
suffices to give a realising sense of its enormous dimensions, which,
along with the lavish expenditure on rare varieties of wood and
marble, afford the only set off against its entire lack of artistic taste.
As the Escorial materializes the mind of Philip II., so Mafra reflects
the jejune and feeble character of Portugal in the 18th century.
*Mafra is a rich monument', writes Alex. Herculano, *but devoid
of poetry and therefore of true greatness ; it is the monument of a
great but tottering nation, which is about to die after a final ban-
quet 3i la Lucullus'.
The melodious chimes in the towers, each comprising 57 bells,
are by Levaehe of Antwerp and are said to have alone cost 4 million
cruzados. — The facade of the church is adorned with 58 marble
statues, most of them by the Italian GiusU, — The chief objects of
interest in the interior of the church are the high-altar-piece re-
presenting the Virgin and St. Antony, the statue of St. Jerome by
Felipe Valles^ and the richly gilt organs.
The Palace (fee of 200-300 rs. to the 'almoxarife') is adorned
with scenes from the history of Portugal and the discoveries of the
Portuguese. — The Library contains 30,000 volumes.
The Tapada de Mafra^ to the N.E. of the palace, is a model farm,
with an interesting royal stud.
Highroads lead from Mafra to the S.W. to (I21/2 M.) dnirm (p. 542)^
to theN.W. to (6 M.) -^n'ceJra, a fishing- village with excellent sea-bathing ^
and to the TS. to Torret Vedrtu (p. 651).
The Railway ascends rapidly to the N.E., along the Farello, to
(26 M.) Malveira, To the right we have a view of the smiling
"lateau of the inland part of Estremadura. We then descend through
nnel to (32 M.) Pero Negro and along the Sizandro, Numerous
^ards. — 36 M. Dois PoHoa; 391/2 M. Rum, On a hUl to the
to Alfarelfos. ORIDOS. 59. Route. 551
right is the village of Ordasqtteira, with several windmills. We
thread three short tnnnels and pass (right) an old aqneduot.
421/2 M. Torres Vedras (216 ft. ; Hot. dos Cuoos, pens, 1000-
1400 rs.} Hot, Natividade\ with 6100 inhab., situated on the left
bank of the Sizandro, has an old Moorish castle (fine view) and
some warm springs (112^ Fahr.). The name (Tuires Veierw, old
towers) is mediaeval, but many inscriptions have been found pointing
to a Roman origin. The town often played a part of some importance
in the earlier history of the country, and the Cortes met here in 1441.
The celebrated Linbs of Torbbs Vbdras, constructed by Wel-
lington in 1810 to protect Lisbon against the French, extend from
the sea to Alhandra (p. 513), a distance of about 25 M. There were
two lines, at varying distances apart and comprising about 150 forts
and batteries.
'The lines of Torres Vedras, which the powerful French army nnddr
Massena was unable to pass, and from which the wave of war was rolled
back broken into Spain, were perhaps the most remarkable works of the
kind ever constructed' (Col. Nugent).
The train now leaves the valley of the Sizandro and ascends to
the N., through woods of flr and pine, to (471/2 M.) Ramalhaly about
6 M. to the W. of which lies Vimeiro, where Wellington defeated
the French on Aug. 21 st, 1808. Farther on we traverse a lonely
moor. To the right is the Montejvnto (2185 ft.). Beyond (52 M.)
Outeiro we again enter a well- til led region, with vineyards and olive
groves, bl^l^^. BombarraL The Bi6«rai2cans crossed. 61 1/2 M./SfflJo
Mamede is also the station for JSoZipa, the scene of the first battle
between the French and English in the Peninsular War (Aug. 17th,
1808), when Wellington defeated Laborde.
6472 ^- ObidoSi an old town with 3300 inhab., situated on a
height to the right, above the Rio da Vargem, was taken from the
Moors in 1148. It has a castle of King Diniz, an aqueduct, and
walls with battlements and towers. The hexagonal church of Noi9e
Senhor da Pedra, in the valley V2 M. to the N. of the town, was
begun by John V. but left unfinished.
From Obidos roads lead to the N.W. to the Logo d^ObidoSy a deeply-
cut ria, and to the W. to Fenicfae ('peninsula^), situated on a rocky
peninsula, connected with the mainland by a sandy spit. — Adjacent is
the rocky headland of Carvoeiro or Peniche, surmounted by a lighthouse
115 ft. high and affording a good view of the Islas Berlengets^ ris'tng from the
sea like teeth. The principal island is divided into two parts by a cleft
in the rocks. On its highest point is a Hghthoupe (fainlhao) visible 24 M.
out at sea.
The train crosses the Rio da Vargem. To the right is the church
of Nosse Senhor da Pedra (see above). We traverse pine-woods.
68 M. OaldaB da Bainha (Hot. Lishonense, pens, from 1000 rs.;
Hot. AlliatKa, pens. 1000-1500 rs.; Hot.Caldmse), a town of 2700
inhab., with celebrated sulphur-baths (120** Fahr.), founded by Queen
Leonora (p. 530) in 1485. The Hospital^ restored by John V. in
1747, accommodates 400 poor inmates. Its bell-tower, standing
near the church, is in the Emmanuel style (p. 636). The Fas^eio d
552 Route 59. LEIRIA.
Copa, to the S. of the town, Ib a shady avenue of planes and elms.
The Fabriea de FaiarKos is the chief majolica factory in Portngal.
From CaldM da Bainha to AUmquer and Carrtffodo, see p. 513.
72V2 M. Bovro^ with pine-woods. Along the sea runs a chain
of lofty dunes. To the left is a narrow bay ( Concha) ^ forming the
only harbour on this part of the coast. 75 M. SSo Martmho do PoHo,
picturesquely situated on the aloe-grown slopes of a sand-hill, on
the N.E. margin of the bay. In spring the railway embankment is
«oyered with the blossoms of several varieties of stone-crop (sedum).
84 M. YalladOf on the Aleoa^ is the starting-point for the ex-
cursion to Alcoba^a and BaUUhd (JR. 60).
A diligence (200 rs.) mns to the W., down the valley of the Alcoa,
to (3Vs M.) HoMa Senhora de Hazareth (Grand H6UI Club)^ a small. sea-
bathing place and pilgrimage-resort. The Ermiday containing a miracle-
working image of the Virgin, was erected in 1182 by Fwu Rottpinho, whom
Oar Lady had saved from a fatal fall while stag-hunting.
92V2 ^* MartinganQa. — 96 M. Marinha Orcmde, a glass-foundry
amid the pine-woods of the Pinhal Real (see below).
103 M. Leiria. — The Bailway Btation lies on the river, about 2 M.
below the town (omn. 100 rs.)*
Hotels (comp. p. 502). Hot. Liz, at the Fonde Grande iHot. Centkai.,
near the Praya de Bodrigues Lobo, both fair, pens. 1000 rs. — Ca/i
Oriental^ Pra^a de Rodrignes Lobo.
Leirfay a district- capital with 3600 inbab., is finely situated on
the left bank of the small river Lfc, which here receives the waters
of the Lena (p. 666). The town is dominated by a steep hill with
the ruined castle of King Diniz and by other picturesque heights
with churches and convents.
This once important town, wrested from the Moors by Affonso Hen-
riques In 1135, wa« the residence of King Diniz or Dew* (1279-1825), *que
fis tanto quiz' (Vho did what he willed'). One of his acts was to plant
the Pifihal Real with sea-pines (pinus maritima) from the Landes of 8.
France in order to protect the country from the flying sea-sand. Leirfa
afterwards lost its importance to Coimbra, but it was made the' see of
a bishop in 1545. The first printing-press in Portugal was set up here in
1466. The banishment of the Jews iigured it deeply. Leiria was the
birthplace of the poet Francisco Rodriguez Lobo (b. ca. 1600), whose chief
work, 0 Condettahle do Portugaly celebrates the hero of the battle of Alju-
barrota (p. 565).
From the Pra^a de Rodrigues Lobo, in the centre of the town,
we follow the Rua de Santa Isabel towards the N. and then take the
first side-street to the right. This brings us to the S^ (Santa Maria)^
an unpretending Renaissance edifice of 1571, modernized in the
18th century.
We then ascend through the Gal^ada do Pa^ 0 and cross the Largo
de Boa Vista to the Agenda do Banco do Portugal. The passage to
the right of the bell-tower leads hence to the (10 min.) *Ca8tello dt
Leiria, The S. portal and the choir of the early-Gothic church are
well preserved ; and the other ruins are also interesting. Tbe castle
affords a splendid view of the town and mountains to the E. and of
the Pinhal Real to the W.
ALCOBA^A. 60, Route, 553
From the S.E. side of the Pra^a de RodrigueB Lobo a few steps bring
us to the Campo de Dom Luiz PrimeirOj with its theatre and charm-
ing pleasare-gronnds. The Fonte Qrande^ to the E. of this pra^, is
mnch frequented by women bearing water-jars of antique form. An
attractive promenade descends along the Liz to the (10 min.) Rodo^
with the warm F(mte Quente,
From the Olho* de SSo Pedro, at the foot of the Monte de 8ao Miguel^
a warm and & cold spring issue side by side. — A *Route de Calvaire''
leads to the pilgrimage-church of 8<mto Jfftutin, dating from 1606.
Good Roads lead from Leiria to the N E. to Powihal (p. 663) j to the
S.E. to Ourem (wilh an old castle), CMo de JiofO* (p. 563), and Thomar
(p. 661)-, and to the S.W. to Batalha and Alcobaga (VaUado; R. 60).
The Railway crosses the Liz and descends to the N.W. along
its right bank, partly through pine-woods, to (110 M.) Monte Real.
Several small stations. Beyond (126 M.) Telhada we approach the
marshy plain of the Mondego (p. 566) and cross an embankment to —
130 M. Amieira, a small place with mineral baths, pleasantly
situated on the slope to the right, amid groves of pine and olive. It
is the junction of a branch-railway to (7 M.) the seaport of Figuehra
da Foz (British vice-consul).
From Amieira our line ascends to the N.E., vi& (134 M.) Venide^
on the left bank of the Mondego, to (140 M.) AlfareUos (p. 664).
60. From Vallado to Leiria vi& Alcobafa and Batalha.
20 M. Road. An Omnibus runs from Vallado to (4 H.) Alcoba$a in
connection with the trains. A Diligence plies daily from Alcobaca to (8 H.)
Batalha (600 rs.) and (16 M.) Leiria (1000 rs.). Carriage from Alcobaca to
Batalha 2000 rs., to Leiria (allowing half-a-day at Batalha) 30004000 rs.
(bargaining necessary).
The road from Alcobaca to Leiria, forming part of the old highway
between Lisbon and Coimbra, is rich in historical reminiscenees. The
convents of Alcobaca and Batalha rank with those of Belem and Thomar
as the most important architectural monuments of PortugaFs age of glory,
and should not be overlooked by any lover of art.
Vallado^ see p. 552. — A shady road ascends to the E. through
the valley of the Alcoa, passing a Fabrica de Faiancas e Tejidos.
4 M. Alcobaca (*Hot, Alcobacense or Oalinha^ to the S. of the
convent, pens. 1200 rs., unpretending; H6t, Central^ opposite the
barracks) is charmingly situated between the Alcoa and Ba^a and
is commanded on the W. by a range of hills, bearing the scanty re-
mains of a Moorish castle.
The celebrated ^Cisterciaii Abbey of Alcoba9a (Mosldro de Santa
Maria) J one of the richest and largest convents in the world, was
founded by Affonso Henriques after the capture of Santarem (p. 612)
and built in 1148-1222. The abbot was numbered among the highest
dignitaries of the land. Mass was celebrated, it is said, day and night
without intermission by 900 monks. Abbot Jo&o Dornellas sent no
fewer than eleven troops of his vassals to the battle of Aljubarrota
(p. 655). The French sacked the convent in 1810, and in 1834 it
was secularized.
554 Uoute 60. ALCOBA^A. From Vallado
The buililiuAS, forming a square wi(h7t^ ft. of front, comprized
five cloisters, seven dormitories, a hospedaria, and a library with
26,000 volumes. Through the gigantic kitchen flows a rivulet from
the Alcoa; its high conical chimney, supported by eight iron
columns, resembles those of Gintra (p. 543). The N. part of the
building, erected under the Cardinal- Abbot Affonso, son of Em-
manuel the Fortuuate, is now used as cavalry-barracks.
The imposing * Church (sacristan, Avenida de SSo Juan de
Dios, 300 yds. to the S.W. of the entrance; fee 150-200 rs.), an
early-Gothic edifice 348 ft. long, 42 ft wide, and 68 ft. high, re-
sembles the Cistercian buildings of France. The baroque facade dates
from the time of Card. Henry, the 26th and last of the abbots ; the
Gothic portal is earlier.
The Intbbiob, with its unusually narrow aisles, makes a severe,
almost gloomy impression. The 24 unadorned piers stand so close
to one another as to appear like a wall to one entering the church.
The transept has a kind of aisle on the side next the nave. The
choir, with its fine windows, is surrounded by an ambulatory with
radiating chapels.
The place of the fourth chapel of the ambulatory (S. side) is
taken by a passage with beautiful reticulated vaulting and rich door
frames in the 'Emmanuel' style (p. 536). The door to the left in this
passage leads to the 8<icristyy restored by Jo&o de CcutUho (p. 536)
in the reign of Emmanuel (ca. 1619) and modernized in the 17-I8th
centuries. Adjacent is a small dome-covered room, containing nu-
merous half- figures of saints fitted up as reliquaries. The door on
-the right side of the passage opens on a chapel. The passage itself
debouches on a graveyard, formerly the cloister-garth, and on the
isolated Capella de Nossa Senhora do Desterro ('desert'), of the 18th
cent., with a richly gilt retabulo and majolica pictures.
The second chapel to the left in the S. transept contains a rich
but much dilapidated terracotta group of the 17th cent., representing
the death of St. Bernard. Above is a relief of the Virgin, with angels
playing on musical instruments. To the right and left are the tombs
of Affonso II. (1211-23) and Affonso III. (1245-79). — Opposite,
to the right, is the —
♦ Capella dos TumuloSj a Gothic structure of greenish sandstone,
dating from the second half of the 14th century. In the middle
stand the tombs of Peter I. (1357-67) and Inez de Castro (see p. 571),
with recumbent effigies of the deceased. These are placed feet to
feet, at the command, as is alleged, of the king, who desired that the
first object seen on his resurrection should be his beloved wife. The
sarcophagus of the king is surrounded by six lions, that of Inez by
six creatures resembling sphinxes. Vrraca and Beatrice (Brites)^
the wives of Affonso II. and Affonso III., are also buried here. The
mutilations of the tombs are due to French soldiers.
From the N. aisle we enter the Sala dob Rbis, a large Gothic
PI a Ilia ^eral do inosteiro da Ratalha
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to Leina. BATALHA. 60. Route. 555
room, with four pieis, conUinuig a terracotta group of the Coronation
of Affonso Henriques and statues of nineteen kings, from Alfonso to
Joseph I. The original charter of the convent is also kept here. The
bronze hrazier (caldeir&o) was taken by the Portuguese at Aljubarrota
(see below).
The fine *Cloistebs (Claustro de Bom Diniz) to the N. of the
church (entr. from the Sala dos Reis or from the N. aisle) deserve
special attention. The lower stage, in the early-Gothic style, dates
from the days of King Diniz (p. 552) ; the upper was restored in the
early Renaissance style by JoOo de CastUho at the instance of King
£mmanue]. The Gothic well-house on the N. side is very picturesque.
Senhor Vieira da Natividade^ an apothecary in Alcoba^a, has & small
collection of prehistoric antiquities from the caves of Aljnbarrota.
From Alcobaca to Batalha (8 M.), a drive of 2-2V4 hrs. We
skirt the N. side of the convent and cross the Ba^a, At the fork we
ascend to the left through a fertile district. To the E. rise the lime-
stone summits of the Serra d^Albardos. At the top of the hill we
enjoy a good retrospect of Alcobaca. To the W. are the ocean and
Nazareth (p. 552), adjoined by the Monte de Sao Bartholomeu; the
extensive white patches are sand-dunes.
Halfway to Batalha, beyond the insignificant village of Alfuhar-
rota, we traverse the Battle Field of Aug. Idth, 1385^ where the
newly elected King John of Portugal defeated the army of his brother-
in-law John I. of Castile, husband of the daughter of the last Portu-
guese monarch of the legitimate Burgundian line (p. 504).
The Portuguese were led by the Conde$iahle Nunc Alvare* Pereira and
met the enemy at Canoeira (see below). The cannons of the Spaniards
threw them at first into some confusion, but they soon recovered from
their dread of the new-fangled weapon. They pressed upon the Spanish
centre at Cruz da L4goa (see below), and dealt the decisive blow at Alju-
barrota. A full description of the battle is given by Camoens in the fourth
canto of ^Os Lusiades". According to a local legend, Britet d" Almeida^ wife
of the baker of Aljubarrota, distinguished herself in the pursuit by killing
seven Castilian soldiers with her pa or *oven-peer (a long: wooden shovel).
This gave rise to the saying ^endiaHfrado como a padeira d'AlJt^arrota' C»a
full of the devil as the baker's wife of Aljubarrota'); and the community
proudly bears a pd in its coat-of-arms. The house of Brites, to the W. of
the pra^a, bears an inscription in Latin verses. Portugal itself won in
this battle the right to the description of being ^sempre per$egttido mait
nunca vencido' ('always pursued but never subdued'').
To the W., as we proceed, lie large tracts of sand. Beyond Casal
da Cruz da Ugoa the scenery becomes more and more desolate, and
only a few miserable huts are passed amid the interminable pine
woods. Finally we begin to descend and come suddenly into sight of
Batalha, which we enter across a stone bridge.
The small town of Batalha {'Hotel\ to the S. of the oonvent
church, very primitive), with 3600inhab., lies in the fruitful valley
of the jDena, surrounded by hills clad with pines or olives, and oc-
cupies the site of Canoeira^ the village where the great battle that
secured the independence of Portugal began (see above). Gratitude
for the victory induced John I. to establish the famous —
556 Route 60. BATALHA. From Vallado
^KMtoiro de Santa Kaiia daTictoria, generally known as
BataUia. The imposing buildings of the monastery occupy the whole
of the N. part of the town. The date of its building is generally reck-
oned from 1388, when the king gave the Dominicans the deed of
gift in the camp before Melga^o. The original plan was probably
limited to the church, with the adjoining burial-chapel of the kings
of the house of A^iz (p. 504), and to the first cloisters (CXaustrc
Beal)^ with their adjacent rooms. The design and style of these parts
of the structure reveal the influence of English models, and perhaps
the Yery name of Batalha may be an echo of William the Conqueror's
Battle Abbey. The building -plan and the masons were obtained
through Philippa of Lancaster (p. 568), probably from England. The
original master-builders were Affonso Domingues (d. before 1402),
a Portuguese, and Houguet or Hiiet (Hacket?), an Irishman. King
Edward (Duarte ; 1433-38) expanded this simple plan and began the
building of the Capellas Imperfeitas, the name still given to the
second and larger, but 'uncompleted' mausoleum behind the choir.
In spite of the testamentary wish of the king that this mausoleum
should be finished, his successor Affonso V. (1438-81) confined
himself to the erection of the second cloisters (Claustro de Dom
Affonso QuifUo). The designer of these was probably the third
master-builder Martim Vasquea (d. before 1448) or Femffo d^Evora
(still living in 1473).
It was not till the reign of Emmanuel the Fortunate (1495-1521)
that the completion of the Capellas Imperfeitas was determined on
— it is said at the instigation of Queen Leonora. The work, how-
ever, progressed bi^t slowly, as the king soon transferred his interest
to the new convent of Belem (p. 536) and selected its church as
his mausoleum. Matthew Femandet the Elder (from 1480 ; d. 1516)
and M. Ferrmndea the Younger (A. 1628) are named as the master
builders. To the design of the former are probably due the vestibule
of the new mausoleum , with its celebrated portal, the vaulting of
the chapels, and the massive piers of the upper octagon. The win-
dow-tracery of the Claustro Real was then executed in the same
ornate *Emmanuer style (p. 536). In the reign of John IIL (1521-
57) Jodo de Castilho (p. 536) added the inappropriate Renaissance
balustrade of the vestibule, since which nothing has been done to-
wards the completion of the mausoleum. In 1661, however, John III.
extended the convent, which now accommodated sixty monks, by
the erection of the Claustro de Dom Jodo III. and its large adjoin-
ing rooms.
The earthquake of 1766 is said to have overthrown the tower of
the founder's chapel. In 1810 the French under Mass^na destroyed
the cloisters of John III. and plundered the royal sarcophagi and the
altars of both church and chapel. After the suppression of the con-
vents (1884) Batalha was declared a national monument (1840), and
an annual sum of two million reis was set apart for its maintenance,
to Leiria, BATALHA. 60, Route. 557
Since then almost all the injured portions of the building and sculp-
tures have been gradually restored. Batalha, the great monument of
Portugars independence, has thus arisen phoenix-like from its ruins
and is once more one of the grandest buildings of Christendom. Its
situation is, indeed, inferior to that of the Alhambra, the greatest
Moorish monument in the Peninsula, and it lacks the sensuous charm
of the AraVfl fancy, but it almost surpasses the Moorish edifice in
sumptuous splendour. This effect is largely due to its material, a
marble-like limestone from the neighbouring quarries , which has
acquired a beautiful golden-brown tone through the lapse of ages.
One keeper (150-200 rs.) shows the charch; another (200-300 rs.) the
cloisters, museum, chapter-room, Gapellas Imperfeitas, and roof.
The Gothic *Church is entered by the richly articulated W. or
Mam Portal , which has been partly restored. It is adorned with
figures of Moses and the Prophets . saints and angels (the latter in
the soffits of the arch). In the pediment over the door is Gh)d the
Father surrounded by the Eyangelists ; and at the apex of the arch
is the Coronation of the Virgin. To the S. the church is adjoined
by the CapeUa do Fundador (see below), the upper, octagonal portion
of which is covered with a flat stone rooft. The main tower of the
church (p. 560) is not visible from this side. From the S. the church
is entered by the Porta Travewa.
The Intbriob is 263 ft. long and 106 ft. wide. The nave is
divided from each of the aisles by eight plain piers. The transepts
are narrow. The pentagonal apse is adjoined on each side by two
tri-apsidal chapels. The absence of side-altars, ornamental sculptures,
and the like produces an extraordinary echo. Lofty coloured win-
dows, many of them unsatisfactorily restored, admit an unusual
amount of light. The choir- windows still retain the old stained glass
by QiUtherme de Belles, Mestre Jodo, and Antonio Taca, with re-
presentations of the Annunciation (1.), Visitation (1.), Adoration of
the Magi (r.), and the Flight into Fgypt (r.).
The most interesting tombs are those of King Edward and his wife
Leonora of Aragon, in front of the high-altar, still showing many
traces of French vandalism; that of the architect Matthew Femandes
the Elder (jp.6b&)^ adjoining the W. portal; th&tof the Duke of Aveiro^
father of the conspirator executed at'Belem (p. 535 ; arms and in-
scription erased), in the Chapel of 8t, Barbara ; that of John II.
f 1481-95), much mutilated, in the CapeUa de NossaSenhora doPranto
no^N.S. dePUdade); and, finally, the family tomb of the De Souaae,
in the Cap. de Sao Miguel.
The Sacristy J entered from the Chapel of St Barbara, is now bare
and empty.
A sumptuous doorway leads from the S. aisle into the ♦♦Founder'g
Chapel (CapeUa do Fundador), a chamber 65 ft. square , with a
+ This roof was probably constructed after the earthquake, to replace
the octagonal spire shown in De Sousa's account of Batalha (ITlh cent.}.
558 Route 60, BATALHA. From VaUado
light and elegant octagon in its centre, borne by eight pillaTS. The
slender pillars, the ornate arches, thewindow-traeery, and the bosses
in the vaulting of the octagon are all alike executed "with a Jewel-
like perfection of finish.
Under the octagon, bonie by eight lions, rests the lofty sarcopha-
gus of John J. ('de boa memoria' ; d. 1434) and his wife Phil^pa
of Lancaster (d. 1416), daughter of John of Gaunt. The right hands
of the king and qneen are clasped. The large canopy over their heads,
bearing the arms of Portugal and England, is a restoration. The
dress and armour still retain traces of colour and gilding. Round
the upper margin runs a briar-wreath, bearing the mottoes ^il me
plet^ (plait) and ^por bem* (p. 543). The sockets at the corners are
for torches.
In four niches in the S. wall of the chapel are the (almost wholly
restored) tombs of the four younger children of the royal pair in the
middle. The one most to the left is that of the Infante Ferdinand^
the *Prfncipe Constanta' of Calderon^s immortal drama, who *held
tho public welfare higher than his own* (Gamoens) ; it bears the
motto ^le bien me plet\
On the hickleM campaign against Tangier in 1486 tbe Portugnese were
allowed by the Moors to retire unscathed, on condition that they should
surrender the important fortress of Geuta , captured by them in 1415.
Prince Ferdinand was left behind as hostage. When King Edward refused
to ratify the treaty, the prince was taken to the interior of Horoeco 'and
cast into prison, where he remained till his death on June 5th, 1443. No
temptation of the Moors overcame his steadfastness. His dead, body was
restored to his countrymen after the capture of Tangier by Affonso V.
(1471), and on June 17th, 1472, it was interred at Batolha. The Infante
Sonto is still a national Portuguese hero. Gamoens celebrates him as
$(mcio irmSo Fernando (Lusiads, VI, 52).
The double monument of the Infante John (d. 1442), Grand
Master of the Order of Santiago, and his wife Isabella bears reliefs
of the Bearing of the Cross, the Crucifixion, and the Descent from
the Cross (this last ancient)} the motto is ^je ai bien reson. Next
coinos the tomb of the Infante Henry (d. 1460), whom history has
honoured with the title of the 'Navigator' on account of his zealous
encouragement of the ocean-expeditions of the Portuguese, though
he himself never took part in a voyage of discovery ; his motto is
Halant de bien fere\ The last tomb is that of Peter , Duke of Coimbra,
who fell in 1449 at the battle of Alfarrobeira (p. 513), witli the
inscription 'dd'aiV (Port, saudade, an untranslatable word expressive
of intense regret and longing ; comp. Ger. Sehmucht), The Order of
the Garter appears on the last two monuments.
By the E. wall of the chapel formerly stood four altars, dedicated
respectively to the Guardian Angel of Portugal, John the Baptist,
St. James (S&o Thiago), and the Assumption. In the W. wall are
four empty tomb-recesses.
The ^Itoyal Cloisters (^Claustro Real ; entr. from the church or
on the E. side) are very picturesque. To the S. and S.E. the church an d
^ower rise above the arcades enclosing the garden-like court, and
to Leiria. BATALHA. 60. Route. 559
to the £. is the chapter-house; in the N.W. angle is a well-house.
The Gothic style of Portngal is here seen in all its phases, from the
simplest forms to the most extravagantly fantastic. Each walk of the
cloisters is 182 ft. long and opens on the oonrt in seven arches, each
sabdivided by 3-6 slender columns. The upper part of the arches is
filled with tracery of well-nigh Oriental intricacy. Two patterns only
occur in this tracery ; one is an elaborate net-work of briar-branches,
enclosing in some cases the armillary spheres that formed the 'devise
parlante' of King Emmanuel ; the other is a singular combination
of the double cross of the Order of Christ with the stems and blossoms
of the lotus, evidently symbolizing the enterprizes of the Portuguese
in the distant Orient. The * WeU House (PavilMo) resembles a
chapel, connected with the N. and W. walks of the cloister by a
larger and a smaller arch and presenting two lofty arched windows
on the sides facing the garth. The tracery with the lotus is repeated
in the lower part of the arches. The five water-basins In the middle
are of fantastic form. The views from the arcades and the well-house
are singularly fascinating, especiallyby bright sunshine. The tracery
of the galleries is mostly modern.
The Refectory (Befdtorio), 98 ft. long and 23 ft. wide, lies to
the W. of that part of the cloisters containing the well-house. Since
the restoration of the convent it has been used as a Museum,
Among the numerous architectural and sculptured fragments are parts
of the original figures on the W. portal of the church (p. 557) and remains
of the old tombs of Prince John, Prince Henry the "Nayigator, and
Prince Ferdinand (see p. 568). The latter has a hole in which the devout
used to place their rosaries. The muBeum also contains the helmet of
John II. and Uie sword and helmet used by John I. at the battle of Al-
jubarrota.
To the N. of the cloisters is an Adega^ or cellar.
The *Chapter House (8ala do Capitulo), to the E. of the cloisters,
is entered by a large doorway, flanked by two arched windows. Door
and windows are alike deeply recessed and subdivided by slender
columns. The interior is 62 ft. square and is covered by a bold
vaulted roof unsupported by pillars. The large E. window contains
three main lights, above which is an expanse of the richest tracery.
The stained glass, with representations of the Passion , is modern.
On a corbel in the S.E. corner is an alleged portrait-statue of
Affonso Domingues (p. 656). In the middle of the room rest Af~
fonso v., his wife UabeUa^ and the young Frince Affonso who was
drowned at Santarem (p. 612).
A *Manoelino' portal in the N.W. angle of the Royal Cloisters
leads to the Cloisters of Affonso V. (Clauttro de DomAffonso Quintojj
erected in the middle of the 16th cent, in the simple Gothic style
of the period. Each walk is 145 ft. in length.
The *Capellas Imperfeitas (entr. on the E. side of the convent)
adjoin the E. end of the church but have no organic connection with
it. According to the original design (p. 556), the central octagon,
with a diameter of about 65 ft., was surrounded by seven largo
560 lUmueo. BATALHA.
obapels, each 29 ft. deep and haying a tri-apsidal termination and
three tail windows. The intervening spaces were occnpied by six
lower pentagonal chapels , each with a single window. The star-
vanlting of the npper octagon was probably meant to be a flat roof
of stone. The lofty dome planned by the architect of the Emmanuel
period necessitated the construction of tower-like buttresses at the
angles of the octagon and the partial walling-up of the six smaller
chapels. The central part of the building was f^om the first reserved
for King Edward, while the three large chapels to the E., facing
the entrance, were meant to contain the tombs of Affonso V., John 11.^
and Emmanuel himself. The original idea was in all probability to
connect the W. side of the mausoleum with the church by a narrow
corridor, but the 'Manoelino' architect devised a large vestibule
(p(tUo), with a *PorUU, 50 ft. high and 25 ft. wide, surmounted by
a clerestory.
The new towers, which were left unfinished at the top, are eon-
strncted, after Indian models , in the form of bundles of reeds and
adorned with foliage and other ornamentation. In the interior,
between the towers and the arches of the chapels, are two rich friezes j
and between these friezes are eight shields with armorial bearings.
The most exquisite work is that of the doorway, where the stone
seems to lose itself in a lace-like web of the most extravagant exub-
erance of fancy.
The elegant Benafssanee Bakutrade of JoSo de Castilho, on the
W. side of the vestibule, the latest addition to the mausoleum, seems
somewhat out of keeping with the rest of the structure.
Visitors should not omit to visit the Boof and Tower of the
church, either from the Capellas Imperfeitas or (easier) from the
Cloisters of Affonso V. (p. 569), in order to enjoy the excellent
bird's eye view of the buildings of the convent and the panorama of
the surrounding country.
To the S.E. of the village of Batalha is the ruinous church of Santa
Cruz^ built by JoSo de Gastilho in 1512-32, with a fine Renaissance portal
and a tasteful retablo. — Fine Views are afforded by the hills to the £.
and the pine-wood to the W.
The BOA.D PBOM Batalha. to Leibia (8 M.) first traverses a ven-
erable pine-forest and then leads between corn-fields and vineyards.
The Pinhal Real (p. 552) is seen in the distance, to the left. Beyond
Azoia^ with its fine oaks, the road descends into the valley of the
Liz, soon affording a view of the castle of Leiria (p. 552).
61. From Lisbon to Oporto vid Entroncamento,
AlfarelioSy Coimbra, and Fampilbosa.
213 M. Railway (one express and two ordinary trains daily) in 10»/4,
13, and 14 hrs. (fares 6810, 53(X), 3790 rs.). The express consists of first and
second-class carriages only. As far as Entroneamento we may also use the
drains for Spanish Estremadura (RE. 64, 47) j and the 'train de luxe
THOMAR. 61. Route, 561
mentioned at pp. 571 and 464 runs twice weekly to Pampilhosa. From
Payalvo a diligence plies to Thomar^ and from Coimbra-Bifureaiao a branch
railway runs to the town of Coimbya. Excursion to Bussaco^ see p. 572.
— There are railway-restaurants at *Entroncamento^ Al/arellot^ and */*««»-
pilhosa, and a refreshment-counter at Goimbra-Bi/wcagdlo.
The only interesting parts of the line are near Coimbra and as we
approach Oporto. The view of the latter city from the Ponte de Maria
Pia (p. 565) is unparalleled in the whole Peninsula. Between Lisbon and
Entroncamento and near Coimbra the best views are to the right, during
the rest of the journey to the left.
From Lisbon to [70 M.) Entroncamento ^ see pp. 514-611. — The
train now quits the valley of the Tagus, passes the villages of AtaUtia
and CarrasedCy and intersects the E. spurs of the Serra do Aire.
89 M. Payalvo is the station (diligence 200 rs.) for —
Thomar (400 ft. ; Hoapedaria de Campedo ; Hosp. de PrUtd)^
one of the most interesting towns in Portugal , which lies on the
NabdOj about 41/2 M. to the E. Its chief lions are the mediaBval
churches and the castle of the Order of Christ, the latter rising to
the W. of the town, a-bove the pleasant olive-clad plain.
The Gasiello de Ceras^ lying on the left bank of the Nabao, on the
site of the ancient Boman Nahanda^ was entrusted to the Knights Templar
in 1169, during the wars with the Moors. Their Grand Master, Qualdim
Paes^ erected here the church of Santa Maria do Olival, and in 1160 began
the construction of a more advantageously situated castle on the hills on
the right bank of the river. Under the shelter of this castle sprang up
the town of Thomar. An old inscription informs us how the Templars here
successfully resisted a six days' attack made by the Almohads (p. 809)
under Jbu Ycfkub YHsuf in 1190.
On the suppression of the Temple Order in 1314, King Denis estab-
lished the Ordeb of Ghbist (Ordem de Cavallaria de Ifotse Senhor Jesus
Ohristo) *for the defence of the faith, the discomfiture of the Moors, and
the extension of the Portuguese monarchy'. The castle of Castro Marim,
at the mouth of the Guadiana, was at llrst assigned to the new Order, but it
was transferred to Thomar in 1334 (or 1356 ?). The golden age of the
Order began under Dom Henrique^ Duke of Vieeu, the famous Henry the
Navigator (p. 558), who was Grand-Master from 1418 to 1460. This prince,
the pioneer of the colonial policy of Europe, used the great wealth of the
Order mainly in the equipment of squadrons for discovery and conquest
on the E. coast of Africa, and to this end founded (1421) the town of Sagres^
with its wharves and schools of seamanship, close by the Holy Gape^ where
his fleets started. In 1454 the Order received from Aflfonso V. the spiritual
jurisdiction over all the conquered lands ^ under Emmanuel, who succeeded
as Duke of Vizeu to the Grand- Masterfihip in 148i, its immense possessions
in Africa and India made it the wealthiest order in Christendom. To
this activity of the Order, so full of advantage for Portugal, an end was
put by the pietistic John III., who converted the Order from one of chivalry
to one of monkhood (1623) and made the Grand-Mastership of the three
Portuguese orders (Thomar, Crato , and Aviz) hereditary in the Crown.
In the Spanish period the Order of Christ sank so low as to be merely
the servile tool of the foreign monarchs.
Thomar possesses a fine Praca, with a Pelourinho (p. 631) bear-
ing the armillary sphere of King Emmanuel. Here stands the church
of SXo Joio Baptista, built about 1490, with a tasteful portal in the
'Manoelino' style (p. 636) and a Tower ending in an octagonal, spire.
The interior contains an ancient font, a late-Gothic octagonal pulpit,
and some excellent pictures (Baptism of Christ at the high-altar
etc.) ascribed by Justi to a pupil of Quinten Matsys (Simon ?) a
Babdkkeb's Spain and Portugal. 36
562 RouUei, THOMAR. From lAshon
Vekuco (p. 667). — Not far off Ifl the octagonal chapel of 8&o 6re-
gorio, whence a flight of 265 steps ascends to the ermida of Nosaa
Senhora da Piedade, a much-frequented pilgrimage - church dating
from 1613 (good views). About halfway up, to the right, is the
ruined chapel of No88e Senhor JesHs do Monte,
From S&o Jo&o Baptista we may cross the Nabao by the old
Bridge and descend ▼!& the cemetery to Santa Mabia do OiiIval,
the old church of the Templars, which down to the time of Johnlll.
was the seat of the Great Chapter of the Order of Christ and the
burial-place of the most prominent knights , while it was the *Mo-
ther' of all the churches of the Order in the Portuguese colonies. It
was entirely rebuilt in the Gothic style in 1450, with the exception
of the W. facade and the detached, fortress-like tower. The most
interesting objects in the interior are the graceful pulpit and the
beautiful monument of Bishop Diogo Pinheiro (d. 1526), both in
the Renaissance style. — We now return to S&o Jo&o Baptista and
ascend the castle-hill by the Rua de Santiago. On the way we pass
the church of Nossa Senhora da Concei^do , an elegant Renaissance
structure of 1579 (1641?), and several Co^umni bearing the emblems
of the Order of Christ. At the top we reach the old Castle of the Tem-
plars, on the E. margin of the hill. Hence a few steps lead to the
Palace of Henry the Navigator, restored and enlarged in the 16th
cent, by Queen Catharine, widow of John III. Beyond this is the —
♦CoNVBNTO DB Chkisto, the convent-palace of the Knights of
Christ, affording an admirable survey of the course of Portuguese
architecture from the 12th to the 17th century. To the Templar per-
iod belong one of the smaller cloisters and the old church (ca. 1162),
occupying the highest point of the hill and said to be an imitation of
the Church of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem. Two other cloisters
and a chapter-house were erected by Henry the Navigator. Emman-
uel added the new church of the Order of Christ with a chapter
room below its high-choir, the small Claustro de Santa Barbara, and
the uncompleted new chapter-house. Extensive new buildings were
necessitated by John lU.'s transformation of the Order. Four new
cloisters, extensive dormitories, and other structures were added,
which were not completed till the time of the Spanish monarchs.
The fine aqueduct , 3 M. long , was constructed" by Philip II. and
Philip III. in 1595-1613. In 1810 the French burned the hand-
some stalls of the new church, executed by Olivel de Gand (1509).
The Conde de Thomas saved the buildings from utter ruin by buying
a part of them in 1843 after the suppression of the Order (1834).
A handsome double-flight of steps ascends to a large Platfobh or
Tbrbagb, on which, to the left, Is the New Chapter Mouse ^ a two-storied
edifice by Joao de Castilho (p. 536), of which the outer walls only are com-
pleted. On the second story is a triangular apse for the throne of the
Grand-Master. To the right are the battlemented Temple Church (see be-
low) and (partly hidden by the Claustro dos Filippes) the **Chukch of
THE Ordbs op Christ, the brilliant masterpiece, by Joao de Castilho , of
the 'Manoelino' style (p. 536). The chief features of the exterior are the
to OpoHo, POMBXL. 6J. BouU. 563
ornate W. doorway, recalling that of Belem \ the exquisite tracery of the
arcade, with the sphere of Emmanael and the cross of the Order \ and the
semi-Indian flying buttresses at the N.W. angle. The half-length figure
on the N. side, below the fantastic window of the chapter-house , passes
for a portrait of the architect (?) Ajfre* do Quintal. The interior is roofed
by fine reticulated vaulting, rising above a series of exquisite corbels. On
the K. side is the Coro AUo (entr., see below), below which is the Chapter
Room, with windows recalling Indian models.
The *Tbicplb Chubch is connected witii the church of the Order of
Christ by a lofty pointed arch and has been used as its choir (capella-
mdr) since the time of Emmanuel. It is a sixteen-sided structure, with a
central octagon (eharota) for the high-altar. The ornate decoration, the
paintings (by a Fleming), the statues of twelve prophets on the walls, and
the remains of a group of the Crucifixion (by OKvel de Oandf) all date
from the reign of Emmanuel. To the right of the large connecting arch-
way is a handsome Renaissance pulpit.
To the £. of the Temple Church is the Gothic Clausiro do CemenieriOi
the only extant portion of the building from the time of Henry the Navi-
gator. It contains the tomb of Diogo da Qama (d. 1525) and other monu-
ments. Adjacent is the SaerUip, built by Philip III. in 1620.
To the K. of the churches lie the small Claustro de Santa Barbara^
in the early-Renaissance style, and the extensive Convent Buildings of
the 16-17th centuries. The latter include large Corridors ^ about 100 yds.
long, flanked on both sides by cells; a small and elegant central apart-
ment with a dome •, four huge Cloiiters (Claustro da Hospedaria, dos Fi'
lippes, dos Corvos, and do Mixo); the lUfectory; the Ahbofs Houu; the
Novieiaie; and large store-rooms, kitchens, and the like on the groundfloor.
The best of these buildings is the *Clau*iro dos FiKppes (S.W.), a hand-
some two-storied building of the time of the Spanish kings , in the late-
Renaissance style and resembling in some degree the creations of Palladlo.
In the middle of the court is a tasteful fountain. — An ornate *£mmanuer
door leads hence to the high-choir (see above) of the church of the Order
of Christ. From these cloisters, too, we may ascend the small tower, with
the largest bell in Portugal, or to the roof of the church.
Beyond Thomar the railway ascends considerably. 85 M. Chdo
de Magds is the starting-point of a diligence to Ourem and Leirfa
(p, 552). We thread a tunnel. 91 M. Caxarias , on a tributary of
the Nabao, near large pine-woods. The train crosses the watershed
between the Tagus and the Mondego by a tunnel and descends vi^
(97 M.) AlbergarCa into the valley of the Arunca , which it reaches
at (105 M.) Vermoil.
110 M. Fomb&l, an attractive town on the right bank of the
Arunca, with a conspicuous ruined castle, was founded byGualdim
Paes (p. 561) in 1181. Pop. 5000. It furnished the title of Sebas-
tido Josi de Carvalho e Mello^ the *Gran Marqu^z', who was born at
Soure on May 13th, 1699. After the death of Joseph I. (1777) the
once all-powerful minister (pp, 520, 536) was degraded and exiled
to Pombal, where he died on May 8th, 1782. — The chief objects of
interest are the above-mentioned Castle^ the modern Igreja Matris,
and the remains of the Romanesque Temple Churchy formerly a
mosque, with interesting horseshoe portal,, and other Moorish ^traces
in its capitals and vaulting.
Diligence from Pombal to Leiria, see p. 553.
The old Lisbon highroad (p. 553) leads from Pombal direct to the N.F
through the mountains, passing Redinha, Condeixa^ and Ssmache^ to (26
Coimbra (p. 565) — a day's journey on horseback.
86«
564 BauU 61. AVEIRO. From Lisbon
The train follows the right bank of the Arunca, passing numer-
ous cork-trees. To the E. rises the Serra de Louzd (3943 ft.) , the
S.W. prolongation of the Serra da Estrella. ^ 116 M. Soure^ the
first place in the province otBeira(Mar). As we proceed, the high-
lying town of Monte mor Velho (see below) comes into sight on the
left, beyond the Mondego.
127 M. AlfareUoB (Bail. Bestaurant), a poor place, but of some
importance as the junction of the railway to Lisbon via Leiria (R. 59).
'Ovos molles' (see below) are sold at the station.
The train runs to the N.E. through a marshy district. Beyond
(129 M.) FormoseUia it approaches the Mondego , which here flows
through the Campo de Mondego^ a fertile plain with vines, oranges,
and orchards. — Beyond (136M.) Taveiro we cross the Mondego by
a long iron bridge, obtaining a *Glimpse to the right of Goimbra,
rising white above the verdure of the plain.
139 M. Coimbra^BifurcacSo (buffet) is the station for the short
(1^4 M.) branch-line to Coimbra (p. 565; carriages changed).
We now traverse a pleasant hilly district between the Serra cCAl-
coba on the W. and the Serra da LavrUo (p. 566) and the Serra de
Bussaco (p. 572) on the E. — 144 M. Souzellas.
149 M. Fampilhosa (* Railway Resiamant ^ Hotel) is the junc-
tion of the line to Villar Formosa via Ouarda (R. 63) and of a
branch-line to Montemdr Velho and (32 M.) Figueira da Fo% (p. 553).
— To the right we see the Fwnta de Bussaeo (p. 638). The country
becomes flatter. 151 M. Mealhada; 156 M. Mogo fores ; 161 M. Oli-
veira do Bairro, — The railway bends to the N.W., towards the sea,
and traverses pine-woods, vineyards, and com-flelds. Beyond (170M.)
Quintans are rice-fields.
174 M. Aveiro (Hot, de Vouga; Brit, vice-consul), the Talabriga
of the Romans, a small seaport and bishop's see with 7400 inhab.,
lies on the E. edge of the large Ria de Aveiro^ a marshy shore-lake,
resembling the lagoons of Venice and Holland. Its chief articles of
export are salt and sardines. The fisheries of Aveiro were famous in
the 15-16th centuries. — At the station small kegs of ovos molles
(a kind of sweetened eggs ; 200 rs.), biscuits (20 rs.) , and pickled
mussels (mexilhffes or Afytilas eduUs; berbigdo or Cardium edtde)
are offered for sale.
The Bia stretches along the coast for a distance of nearly 20 H. and
is separated from the sea by a narrow spit of sand. It formerly communi-
cated with the sea through the Vouga and Antua, hut the mouths of these
streams were stopped up at the beginning of the i9th cent, by new sand-
banks named the Alagadigos. A canal named the Barra Nova had accord-
ingly to be constructed at great expense in 1801-8. The marshes contain
salt-water, except when an unusual quantity of fresh water has been poured
into them by rain and river. Near the sea are several salt-pans (marinhas).
The town offers little of interest. We may visit the Cathedral,
in the Travessa da Se, and the church of Santo Antonio, situated in
an f<\A Couto (i.e. locus cautus, asylum) and affording a fine view of
nd the ocean. The Convento de JesHs contains the tomb of
''^>
Ed
1 =m 'fcl^---.-!//' .
^f^ '
to Oporto. OVAR. 61. Route, 565
8t. Johanna, daughter of AffonsoV. In the Carmelite Convtnt is that
of Brites Lara, the second wife of Gen. Pietro de' Medici (d. 1604).
A sail or row on the Ria to the Chapel of Nossa 8enhora das Areicu
('sand'), on the side next the sea, gives a good opportunity of examining
the vegetation of the marshes, which in spring is, perhaps, more brilliant
than anything else of the kind in Europe.
The Railway runs through a pastoral district intersected by
canals, and crosses the Vouga (the ancient Va^ua) and the Antua,
Beyond (182 M.) Eatarreja we enter a sandy, pine-grown district.
191 M. Ovar, a town of 11,000 Inhab., lies 3 M. from the sea,
at the end of the Aveiro Canal, and carries on a brisk trade in tim-
ber. — Farther on we traverse pine-woods (pinhaes)^ with marshes
and 'shifting' dunes to the left. Beyond (198 M.) Esmoriz the line
strikes seaward, across the dunes, to (201 M.) Espinho (Hot. Parti-
cular; Hot. Bragan^a), a popular sea-bathing resort. — 203 M.
Qranja (H6t. de Granja), another bathing-place, with a pine-grove
and the attractive villas of the Oporto merchants. We are now in
the province of Minho,
The train quits the sea and runs via (208 M.) Valladares towards
the lofty S. bank of the Douro. The railway- cuttings show the gran-
itic foundations of this fertile district. Farther on the granite is
temporarily replaced by slat-e. Oporto appears to the left. — 211 M.
Oaia, a high- lying place with country-houses, is the station for Villa
Nova de Gaia and Oporto (comp. pp. 573, 582).
After passing some cuttings and three tunnels, the train crosses
the deep rocky gorge of the Douro by the *Ponte de Maria Pia , a
fine bridge constructed by Messrs. Eiffel A Co. of Paris in 1876-77
and named after Queen Maria Pia. It crosses the ravine in a single
span of 525 ft.; its total length is 1155 ft., its height 200 ft. The
lower part of the bridge is of granite, while 1428 tons of iron rods
were used for the upper part. The cost amounted to 1,340,000 ft*.
From the bridge we have a splendid view of Oporto to the left, the
cathedral and bishop's palace standing out prominently.
213 M. Oporto, see p. 573.
62. Coimbra.
The Bailway Station (PI. A, 2, 3) lies on the Mondego, to the W. of
the town, about V* M. from the hotels. There are neither hotel-omnibuses
nor cabs in waiting. Porter (mogo) 100-200 rs.
Hotels (comp. p. 502). Hotel Continental (PI. a; C, 4), Estrada da
Biera, on the Mondego, with fine view; Hot. Bbaoanva (PI. b; B, 2), Rua
do Visconde da Las; Hut. Hondboo (PL c ; B, 3), Largo das Ameias, op-
posite the railway-station, with view 5 Hot. dos Caminhos db Fbrbo (PI.
d-, B, 2), H6t. Centkal (PI. e: B, 1), Praya Oitavo de Maio 37 and 30;
Hot. do Commebgio (PI. f ; B, 2), Praca do Commercio. These houses are
far from first-class^ pens. 1000-1500 rs'.
BooksellerB in the Rua do Visconde da Luz and RuaFerreira Borges.
Coimbra, being a university town, is well supplied with Portuguese and
foreign literature.
Photographs: /. Maria dot ScMtot^ Oaes das Ameias.
568 Route 62. COIMBRA. 86 Velha,
To the convent belong also the oval Santuario^ containing a multitude
of relicsi, and the picturesque Belfry beyond the Bua do Hercado, erected
in the itth century.
Ill the RuA DA Sophia (PI. B, 1), to the N. of the Pra^a Oitavo
de Maio, are several late-Renaissance buildings of the second half
of the 16th cent., including the Collegia do Carmo (PI. B, 1), Y?ith
its church (1597), the unfinished church of Sdo Domingos (Pi. B, 1 ;
now a carriage- factory), the CoUegio da Qra^a, and the fine court
that alone remains of the CoUegio dot Jesuiias. — The Paieo da
JnquisiQao (PI. B, C, 1), to the N.E. of the Pra^a Oitavo de Maio,
marks the site of the prison of the Inquisition (1566-1821).
Passing to the E. through the archway in the bell-tower of
Santa Cruz, we reach the Postal Telegraph Office (p. 566) and the
Mercado (PI. C, 1), the latter thronged in the morning with quaintly-
dressed peasants. — From the market we may ascend , passing the
Theatre (left), to the (10 min.) Qvinta de Santa Cruz (PI. F, 3) or
Jogo da Bola^ a relic of the old convent-gardens, with shady grounds
and fountains. Thence we may proceed to the S. to (5 min.) the
Aquedxbct and the Botanic Garden (see p. 569).
Adjoining the house numbered 75 in the Rua do Visconde da
Luz (p. 567) is the Arco de Almedina (PI. B, C, 2, 3), the relic of
an ancient city-gate (Arab, medinaj the city). Passing through this
and ascending to the right , we reach the Rua de Quebra Costas,
whence a flight of steps (left) leads to the Rua de Sub-Ripas (PI.
C, 2). At the end of this last street, to the left, is the PcUacio da
Rua de Sub-Ripas , an interesting edifice in the *Manoelino' style,
erected by Joao Vaz about 1514. The main facade is adorned with
weather-worn ornamentation, while portrait- medallions have been
inserted irregularly in the side- walls.
Farther up is the Rua dos Coutinhos (PI. C, 2), which we de-
scend to the right (S.).to the terrace on which stands the —
♦S6 Velha (PI. C, 3), or Old Cathedral^ generally known as a
Velha. This massive Romanesque building of the 12th cent., with
its battlements, its projecting central portion, and its unadorned
corner-buttresses, resembles a fortress rather than a church. On
the N. side is the Porta Especiosa^ a graceful early-Renaissanc€
structure in three stories, with charming ornamentation and a relief
of the Madonna in the pediment; it is a creation of the French
sculptor named at p. 567. A Sarcophagus, immured in the wall,
contains the remains of Dom SisnandOj the first Christian governor
of the town.
The Intbbiob, enriched in the 16th cent, by numerous Renaissance
additions, and modernized and whitewashed in 1717-39, has been under-
going restoration since 1894. It consists of a nave and aisles, a transept,
and three semicircular apses. The pillars, with interesting Romanesque
capitals, and the vaulting arches are lined with beautiful tiles. Below
the high-choir is a fine wooden ceiling of 1520. — The Capella de SSo
Miguel^ in the right aisle, has an altar with six paintings of the Portu-
Vnitersily. COIMBRA. 62. Route,^ 569
guese school. — The Capella do Sacramento (1566)} in the S. apse, contains
the tomb of its builder, Bishop Joao Soares. — The large late-Gothic
Hiffh Altar (Altctr-Mdr)^ ascribed to Olivel de Gand (?), was erected by
the art-loving Bishop Jorge d'Almeida (1481-1543). In the adjacent Gap.
de Sao Pedro (N. apse) is the tomb of this bishop, consisting of a Renais-
sance retablo, with statues of aposlles and several reliefs. — In the
small chapel adjoining the S. portal (Porta de Santa Clara) are the tombs
of Biikop Egos Fafi$ (13th cent.) and Dona Bataga^ daughter of the Greek
Princess Irene and the Count of Ventemiglio. — The Master of Aviz (p. 504)
was crowned as King John I. in this church. '
The Rua do Gabido, to the N. of the cathedral, ascends rapidly
to the Romanesque church of SSo Salvador fPl. D, 2; closed), built
in 1169 and containing some interesting tombs. Thence we ascend
by the Rua do Salvador and the (right) Arco do Bispo to the Labgo
DA Fbiba (PI. D, 2, 3), on the N. side of which stands the S6 Nova
(PI. D, 2), a late-Renaissance building of 1580, with a large baroque
facade. In the sacristy are a number of old paintings , chiefly by
Portuguese masters. The Treasury (Thesowro da 8e) contains vest-
ments, hangings, and valuable church-plate of the 12-16th centuries.
— On the W. side of the square lies the Papo Episcopal (PI. D, 2, 3),
rebuilt by Bishop Affonso de Castello Branco at the end of the 16th
century. The upper story of the beautiful Renaissance arcade in
the court commands a magnificent view. — On the N.E. this square
is adjoined by the Largo do Marquez de Pombal (PI. D, 2), with the
Natural History Museum and the imposing Chemical Laboratory.
From the S.E. corner of the Largo da Feira, near the large weep-
ing willow and the fountain with the three masks, we proceed to the
La&go do Castello (PI. D, 3) , the site of the castle of Coimbra,
torn down in 1772. Beyond this we skirt the great arches of the
Aqueducto de Sdo SebastiSo^ built by Filippo Terzi in the reign of
King Sebastian (1570), pass (right) the Collegio Sdo Bento (PL D,
E, 3, 4; now Lyceu Nacional), and reach the entrance (to the right,
behind the aqueduct) of the —
*Jardim Botanico (PI. E, 4), which has been admirably laid
out by Director Goetze and serves in part as a public promenade.
On the terrace on the E. side rises a Marble Statue of Brotero,
To the E. of the Botanic Garden lie the suppressed Gonvento de
SanfAnna and the Peniteneiaria (PI. F, 3, 4). From near the latter foot-
paths (fine views) lead to the Penedo da Saudade (^Hill of Longing^) and the
Penedo da Meditagao CHill of Meditation*).
We return to the Largo do Castello and proceed to the left
through the Rua do Infantb Dom Augusto (PI. D, 3) to the Uni-
versity, in front of which a simple Monument to Camoens was erected
in 1881. On the way we pass the former Collegio de Sdo Paulo,
now an Archaeological Museum.
The Umversity (PI. C, D, 3), officiaUy styled Pafo? Reaes das
Escolas, has occupied since 1540 the site of the old royal palace,
which was rebuilt by Emmanuel. The different buildings , partly
restored in the 17- 18th cent., surround a large quadrangle^ diversified
with pleasure-grounds. On entering by the so-called Porta Ferrea
570 RouU 62. COIMBRA. Santa Clara.
(1634) we have the observatory (see below) to the left and the library
in front of us, while to the right is the Collegium, with the residence
of the Rector , the lecture-rooms , and a colonnade known as the
^Yia Latina*. The large Sola dos Acios^ dating from the time of
John III., has line azulejos and an artesonado ceiling. The degrees
are conferred with interesting ceremonies prescribed by John I. in
1431. In another room, adorned with red velvet, carving, and gild-
ing, hang the portraits of the rectors, from Garcia d^ Almeida
(1537) onwards. — The UrUverfity Church, with an ^Emmanuel'
portal, is the old palace- chapel , built by Pero Anes (d. ca. 1518).
— The Library (150,000 printed vols.) contains tbe books and MSS.
of the suppressed convents of 8do Bento, Santa Cruz, Santa Ritaj the
Oraca, and others. — Magnificent *View8 of the town and its en-
virons are obtained from the S.W. comer of the quadrangle and from
the tower of the Observatory.
The university consists of five Faculties (since 1816) and is attended
by about 1400 stndenta. The teachine staff includes regular profeasors
(lentes de collegio or eathedrdticos) and numerous ^substitutes" (nibstitutos
ordinariot and extraordinarios). — The students (esivdantes) wear a black
coat buttoned to the neck and over it a black gown; they generally go
bare-headed, and the bag-like cap (gorrOy supposed to represent the orig-
inal beggar's sack) which they used to carry in their hands has gone out
of fashion. In their free-and-easy behaviour they resemble the students
of some of the smaller university-towns of Germany. — The lectures are
delivered from autumn till the end of May, and the next two months are
devoted to examinations. The course for the ordinary degree of baeharel
formado lasts five years. The degree of douior takes another year and
another examination. Medical students study eight years.
From the university we ascend to the N.W. (left) by the steep
Rua do Norte (PI. C, 3) to the S^ Velha (p. 568) and thence de-
scend the steps to the Rua de Quebra Costas (p. 568). Or we may
turn to the left at the cathedral and follow the Rua de Joaquim A.
Aguiar (PI. 3) and the Rua da Estrella (PI. C, 4) passing the Hotel
Continental (p. 565), to the bridge over the Mondego.
The stone * Mondego Bridge (PI. B, 4) affords an admirable view
of the town and river. It occupies the position of a bridge erected by
King Emmanuel in 1513, which itself replaced an earlier bridge of
Affonso Henriques.
On the left bank of the Mondego, immediately to the left, stands
the Old Santa Clara ConTent, founded in 1286 , restored in 1330,
and now half-ruined and covered with sand. The *Porta de Rosa'
recalls the legend of the pious fraud of St. Elizabeth , whose state-
ment to her husband King Diniz , that her gifts for the poor were
only roses, was confirmed by a miraculous transformation. The
*Porta do Couto' or *da Cadeia' (chain) marks the limit of the former
asylum (p. 564). — The New Santa Clara Convent^ built in 1649,
lies on the Monte da Esperanca , high above the river. At the en-
trance is shown the chain from the old convent. The church con-
tains the old late-Gothic tomb of St. Elizabeth (14th cent.) and her
-er reliquary (1614).
Quinia das Ldgrimas, COIMBRA. 62, RouU, 571
A road diverging from the main road to the left, at the old con-
vent, leads to the (V4 ^0 celebrated *QTLinta das L&grimas, an
attractive park with the Fonte doa Amores. This was once the resi-
dence of the fair Inez de Castro and was the scene of the crime
described by Camoens (Lusiads, III, 118 et seq.).
Inez (Agnes) de Castro, the natural daughter of Pedro Fernandez de
Castro, a cousin of the King of Castile , was one of the maids-of-honour
in the train of Constcmga, daughter of the Duke of Penafiel, who came to
the Portuguese court as the bride of the Infcmie Pedro. Her heauty charm-
ed the Portuguese prince , to whom she bore three children , and on the
death of Constanta (1346) he was privately married to her. The Portu-
guese nobles, fearing the influence of the 'Fair Spaniard' and her cousins,
persuaded the weak Affonso IV. to consent to the murder of Inez. The
king betook himself, along with the conspirators, from Hontemdr Velho
(p. 564) to Coimbra, and announced her fate to Inez. Her prayers, sup-
ported by those of her children, made the king waver in his resolve, but
the foul deed was none the less perpetrated by his courtiers on Jan. 7th,
1365, at the above-mentioned Fonte das Amores.
When Pedro heard of the murder, he rebelled against his father and
devastated the country ; but a reconciliation was ultimately brought about,
though with great difficulty, by the Archbishop of Braga. On the. death
of Affonao (I3ff7) Pedro made a treaty with the King of Castile and secured
the delivery of the actual murderers. Two of these, Alvaro Gonzalez and
Pedro CoelhOy were tortured and put to death at Santarem (p. 612); a third,
Dioffo Lopez Pacheco, escaped by flight. Pedro then summoned an assembly
at Cantanhede and made a solemn declaration of the legality of his mar-
riage with Inez. Her body was exhumed from its grave in the convent
of Santa Clara, was crowned and placed on a throne, and received the
homage of the courtiers, who kissed her hand (beijamao) in the usual
manner. It is to this ceremony that the words of Camoens refer (Lusiads,
HI, 118): Que, despot* de ser morta, foi Rainha ('who did not become queen
till after her deaih'). The body was then borne in a litter by the foremost
nobles of the kingdom , accompanied by torch-bearers, to its final resting-
place at Alcoba9a (p. 554).
No one should visit the Fonte dos Amores without having at hand
Camoens's moving account of this romantic episode in Portuguese history.
The present name of the fountain is found in a legal document of 1360.
Its waters, according to the legend, used to bear secret letters from Dom
Pedro to Inez, when she was confined in the convent of Santa Clara. On
the oldest of the beautiful cypresses that surrounded it were inscribed the
words ''Eu dep sorribra a Ignez formosa'' (I gave shade to the beauteous
Inez); but this tree died fifty years ago. A stone slab by the fountain
bears the following verses by Camoens (Lusiads, HI, 135): —
"Mondego's Daughter-'Nymphs the death obscure
Wept many a year, with wails of woe exceeding;
And for long mem'ry changed to fountain pure,
The floods of grief their eyes were ever feeding;
The name they gave it, which doth still endure.
Revived Ignfez, whose murthered love lies bleeding.
See yon fresh fountain flowing 'mid the flowers.
Tears are its water, and its name *Amore8"\
(Burton"* translation).
68. From Pampilhosa to Guarda and Villar Formoso
(Salamanca^ Medina del Campo),
125 M. Railway (one through-train daily) in about 8 hrs. (fares 4010,
3120, 2230 rs.). The train de luxe mentioned at pp. 561 and 464 is also avail-
able twice weekly, and there are local trains from Pampilhosa to Mangualde
and from Mangualde (Wed. & Sat.) to Guarda. Passengers for Abran*
572 Route 03, BUSSACO. From Pampilhosa
(p. 510) change At Guards. — There mre rmilway-restaarants only at I^m-
pilhoMa (good) and Villar Farmoso.
The line to Upper Bcira, continuing that from Figneira da Fob to
Pampilhosa (p. 564), forms the shortest route from Lisbon to N. Spain
(and Paris). The excursion to Buttaco^ which should not be omitted in
the proper season, may be easily combined with the journey from. Liisbon
to Oporto (R. 61) by taking an early train from Goimbra or Pampilhosa
to Luzo and returning to Pampilhosa by the afternoon-train. Donkeys
(400 rs.) and carriages for the trip to Bussaeo generally meet tiie trains
at Luzo.
PampilhoBa, see p. 564. — The traiu runs to the N.E. to (6^/2 M.)
Luzo^ the station for the village of Lnso (H6t CentnU; HoU dos
Bahhos)^ with its chalybeate spring, which lies 1 M. to the S., on
the N. slope of the Serra de Bussaeo (1795 ft.).
A pleasant road ascends hence to the S., through dense woods,
to the [2 M.) *HoM Bussaeo (B. 160, dtfj. 500, D. 600, pens. 1500 rs.,
wine included) , the new buildings of which , in the Emmanuel
style (p. 536), enclose the former Carmelite monastery of Bus'^acOi
founded in 1268. The convent has a small church, and the walls
of its cells are lined with cork as a protection against damp. It
lies in a sequestered spot amid the woods of the Cereal de Bussclco,
and its grounds contain magnificent Portuguese cypresses (p. 606)
and numerous palms. The convent-wood is enclosed hy a wall 10 ft.
high and 2^4 M. long. A marble tablet on the old main, entrance,
V4M. to the W. of the convent, bears the bull of Gregory XV.
(1622), anathematizing any invasion of the property of the monas-
tery and forbidding women to approach it. A hull of Urban VIII.
(1643) threatens with excommunication anyone who injures the
trees in this *sacred forest'.
A good picture of Bussaeo is given by Prince Lichnowsky, who visited
it in 1843. 'We reached a long, high wall. The gate is adorned with
images of death, and is framed by skulls and bones formed by a mosaic
of black and white stones. A small portal was opened and we rode into
the sacred grove. One could imagine himself to be amid the forests of
Lebanon. Along winding paths, crossed by mountain-brooks, we rode
long under the boughs of centenarian cypresses, which grow here in
thousands. Their trunks are entwined by thick ivy, and their huge branch-
es overshadow and protect an' impenetrable underwood. With the dark
needles of the cypresses are mingled the leaves of gigantic planes, chest-
nuts, and evergreen oaks, the long tassels of the sea-pines, the graceful
crowns of the forest-pines, and the thick and gnarled stems of the cork
oaks. The axe has never been wielded within this sanctuary. The young
growth of all these trees has formed a serried plantation at the feet of their
venerable pro °!eni tors, which raise their heads majestically over the new
generation. The whole effect is imposing in the highest degree; we feel
as if amid the primceval forests of the Orient. One thing is certain, that
the convent-wood of Bussaeo has no parallel in Europe'.
A shady 'Route de Calvaire' winds up from the convent" to the
(V2 hr.) W. spur of the hill, passing several ermidas, with fine views.
The Fanta de Bussaeo^ on the seaward margin of the hill, marked
hy a stone cross, commands a magnificent panorama. To the S.E.
are the denuded heights of the Serra da Estrella ; to the S., ensconc-
ed amid pleasant green hills, are Coimbra and the Mondego valley ;
to the S.W., far below us, lies Pampilhosa, to the W. of which are
Es^aoC
O BoaVista/ " ' i^
\fe^
~7J
^
-^^SXS~'
I m
■^^*
'^?^-
k*^
/i J/
to ViUar Formoso. MANGUALDE. 63. RouU. 57 J
extensive pine-woods, a long chain of dunes, and the sea ; to the
N. are Luzo, with its railway-bridge, and the Serra de Caramullo,
accompanied by various lower ranges.
A Monument on the S. slope of 'grim Bussaco's iron ridge' (Scott),
erected in 1873, commemorates the battle of Sept. 27th, 1810, in which
Wellington drove back the French army of Masslna on its march towards
the sea. In the convent is shown the room occupied by Wellington the
night before the battle.
Beyond Luzo the Railway crosses the valley by a long iron
bridge and then ascends to the E., with the aid of tunnels and
viaducts, to (22 M.) Santa Comba DSo, a small town, on the right
bank of the Dao, a tributary of the Mondejo. It is the junction of
a branch-railway to (31 M.) Vizeu. — We then bend to the N.E.
291/2 M. Carregal do Sal; 32 M. Oliveirihha; 37 M. Carmas de 8m-
horim, the station for the mineral baths of (3 M.) Caldas da Fel-
gueira (Grand H6tel Club).
The railway now approaches the Mondego. 42 M. NtUas. —
49 M. Mangualde (1470 ft.), a town of 4600 inhab., with an old
palace of the Counts of Anadia and the high-lying church of Nossa
Senhora do Castello. A diligence runs hence to Vheu (see above).
— 5872 M. Qouvta^ on the Mondego, lies- 9 M. to the N. of the
small town of that name on the slope of the Serra da Estrelta (6538 ft.).
— 63 M. Fomos dAlgodrea ; 72^/2 M[- Celorico. — The train leaves
the valley of the Mondego and at (8I72M.) ViUafranca das Naves
(1778 ft.) sweeps sharply to the S. — Beyond (85 M.) Plnhel (town
12 M. to the N.E.) we ascend rapidly to —
97 M. Quarda (2655 ft.), the station for the poor little town of
Guarda (3409 ft. ; Hot. Central; 4600 inhab.), which lies 3 M. to the
W., on a bleak plateau amid the N.E. spurs of the Serrja, da Estrella.
Guarda, now the see of a bishop, was founded by Sancho I. in 1199
as a 'guard' against the Moors. Its most interesting features are the
old WallSj the Castello^ and the Renaissance Cathedral, built about
1550, probably by Gonsalvo Torralva (colossal retabulo in the choir).
From Gnarda to AbrarUe4^ see p. 511.
■ Our line turns to the E. 106 M. Villa Fernando; 110 M. Cerdeira,
We cross the C6a, an affluent of the Bouro, at (120 M.) Freineda
(2600 ft.), whence a road leads to the old frontier-fortress of Almeida,
We then descend to the N.E. to (125 M.) Villar Formoso (p. 473).
64. Oporto.
BaUway Stationt. 1. Estagao Central (PI. E, 3), Praca de Almeida Gar-
rett, near the Praca de Dom Pedro, opened in 1896, for all lines. —
2. Estagao do Caminko de Ferro Norte e Leste e Linha do Minho e Douro
(PI. 1, 1, 2), in Gampanha, IV2 M. from the Praca de Dom Pedro, a second-
ary station for the E. quarters of the city. — 3. Eitoiao de Oaia (p. 565),
a subsidiary station for the Pampilhosa and Lisbon line (R. 61), available
only for foot-passengers without luggage (wire-rope railway, see p. 574).
— 4. Estagao do Caminho de Ferro da Povoa (PI. A, 1), for the narrow-
gauge railway to Pdvoji de Varzim (p. 5ftJ). — Cabs (p. 574) are found at thQ
574 Bauued,
OPORTO.
Hotels.
^ ae xjom j
By Day
rearu, jrracii
At l^ight,
before lam.
k aa jsaukui&.
At Kight,
after 1 a.m.
" 300 rs.
400 rs.
eoors.
600,
600,
800,
250>
3()0,
4oo:
125,
iw.
aoo.
eoo.
700,
900,
900,
350,
460,"
100,
180,
240,
Central Station only. A tramway (see below) runs from the £. Station
to the Pra^a de Dom Pedro.
Kotela (comp. d. &09). 'Obajtd U&tkl do Pobto (PI. a ; E, 3), Bua de
Santo Catharina 163, pens. 2000 rs.^ *HdT. ds Pans (PI. b ; D, ^, in the
narrow Bua da Fabric*, with garden; *HdT. db Fbancfokt (PI. c; E,3),
Kaa de Dum Pedro 21, with electric light, pens. IDOO-iSOO rs., wine extn.
These three are of the first class. •— Less pretending: Hot. Ukiykbsu
(PI. d; F, 8), Bua de Alexandre Hercolano 289*, Hot. Auoax^^ (PI. e;
E, 8), Bua de 8i da Bandeira 63-, Hot. Pobtukksb (PL f ; £, 3), Pra^a d»
Batalha I33j Hot. Bbaoav 9a (PI. g \ F, 3), Bua de Entreparedes 61 ; Hot.
Amkbica b (jbbtbal (PI. h; F, 3), Bua de 8So Lazaro 447.
Oaf^ (kkfi Smiuo, Prafa de Dom Pedro 123, also luncheon-rooms;
C. CamtmhOj Pra$a de Dom Pedro 182, also beer-house; C. Marque*^ in. the
GrysUl Palace (p. 678); C<nf4 in the Campo dos Hartyres da Patria(p. 577).
Poat and Telegraph Of flee (Correio e TeUgrajpho; PI. F, 3), Pra;a d«
Batalha. There are a^o several branch-offices.
Oaba (TVens; stands in the Pra^ de Dom Pedro,
Pra(a de Carlos Alberto, and Bua
do Infante Dom Henrique).
Per drive (corrida) . . . , .
Per hour (<u horai) within the city
Each Vs lir. additional ....
Each V4 hr. additional ....
Per hour beyond the city . . ,
Each 1/3 Itr* additional ....
Each V«l^r« additional ....
Hand-baggage free ; each trunk (mala grande) 100 rs. — If the cab W
hired by time and be dismissed outside the town, a return-fare of at lea^i
300 rs. must be paid.
Inclined Bidlwaya (BUvadort*). 1. From the Avenida Diogo Leiu
(PI. D, 6) to the Oaia Statim (see pp. 673 and 666). — 2. From the Caa
dos Guindaes (PI. E, F, 4; adjoining the bridge) to the Praca da Batalha
(PI. E, F, 3).
Tramwaya (Carri* d$ Ferro; special cars for ^fumistas' or smokers).
1. From the JB, Railway Station (PI. I, 1, 2> by the Pra^a da Batalha (PI.
E, F, 8), the Praja de Dom Pedro (PI. E, 3), the Prafa dos Voluntarios
da Bainha (PI. D, 3), and the Bua do Bosario (in returning, the Bua da
Gedofeita) to the Rotunda da Boa Vitta (PI. A, 1). — 2. From the Poaseto da
Cordoaria (PI. D, 4) by the Bua da Bestaura^So, Alameda de MaasareUos
(PI. B, A, 4, 8), and Sao Joao da Fob (p. 582) to Lega da Falmeira (p. 583).
From the end of the Bua da Bestaura^So a branch-line runs by the Bua
da Alfindega (PI. C, D, 4) to the Rua do It^ante Dom Menriqve (PI. D, £,
4, 5). — Fare within the city 60 rs.
Steam Tramway (Linha Ferrea Americana) from the Rotunda da Boa
Vista (PI. A, 1 ; see above) by the Fonte da Houra and SSo Joao da Foz
to Mattovinhos (p. 583). At the Restaurante da Cadoufos (p. 682), in SSo Joao
da Foz, this line connects with tramway-line No. 2.
Steamboat Lines. Royal Mail Bteam Packet Co. (W. & G. Tait, Bua do
Infante Dom Henrique 28) to London and South America; Pacific Steam
Navigation Co. (Kendall A (3o., same street, No. 39) for London and South
America; Oeneral Steam Navigation Co. for London; North Oerman Lloyd
(agent, B. Leuschner) from Leixoes (p. 583) to Antwerp and Bremen;
Hamburg and South American Steam Packet Co. (H. Burmester); OldMburg
and Portuguese Steamboat Co. (H. Burmester), once weekly to Lisbon (Tan-
giers) and Brake and Hamburg; Neptune (W. SttLve), to Lisbon, Antwerp
and JSremen.
Shops (comp. p. xxiii), chiefly in the Bua de Santo Antonio, the R. de
Sa da Bandeira, the B. dos Clerigos, the B. das Flores, and the Largo dos
Loyos. The whole W. side of the B. das Flores is occupied by the glitter-
ing shops of the Goldsmiths and Jewellers (p. 680). Oporto is noted for iU
hats and gloves (luvas).
Bookaellera. Magalhdes ds Monis, Largo dos Loyos 12; Liwaria Inter-
Smation. OPORTO. 64, Route, 575
netcioneU, Bua do8 Glerigos 90; Bwtos^ Baa de Almada lOi. — Fhotographi.
Biel A Co., Rua Formosa 342; Uniao, Pra^a de Santa Thereza 47.
Banken. London A Brazilian Bank, Rna Infante Dom Henriqne 73;
Banco de Portugal, Largo de SSo Domingos; Banco (kmmercial, Bua de
Ferreira Borges; Successor* o/ Ed. Katzenstein, Bua do Bellomonte 39; Mer-
cantile Bank of Oporto. There are several Money Changers (Cambistas) in
the Bua das Flores.
Wine Herohantt. StMve, RoOus, LeSo A Co., Bua Nova da Alfandega;
J. W. Buitnester, Bua de Ferreira Borges ; Silva Jk Cosem, Villa Nova de Gaia.
Druggists (Fharmdcias). Lemos e Filhos, Pra^a de Carlos Alberto ; Birra
e Irmao, Praca de Dom Pedro.
English Church in the Campo Pequeno (p. 57B); services at 11 a.m.
Cbaplain, Rev. T. 8. Polehampton, M. A.
Consuls. British, F. Hay Newton, Passeio das Virtudes 23 ; United States,
William Stave, Bua Nova de Alfandega. — Lloyd's Agents, Bawes ie Co.
Theatres (comp. p. 517). iZeal Theatro de Sao Joao (PI. £, 3), Pra^a
daBatalha, built in 1798, for Italian opera and ballets; Theatro do Fnncihe
Seal (PI. E, 3), Bua de && da Bandeira; Theatro In/ante Dom Affonso (PI. F, 3),
B,ua de Alexandre Herculano, in summer only; Theatro Oil Vicente., in the
Crystal Palace (p. 578), also used for concerts. — Bull Bing (comp. p. 508)
in the Real Colyseu Fortuense (PI. A, 1), Botunda da Boa Vista. — The
Feria de Sao Miguel is celebrated in Sept. at the same place.
Chief Attractions (IVa day). . Ist Day. Morning: Ft-aga de Bom Fedro
(p. 576); Campo dos Martpres da Fatria (p. 577); ''Crystal Falaee (p. 578);
Passeio das Virtudes (p. 678); Rua do Bellomonte (p. 579); Rua de SSo Joao
(p. 579; ; Fraga da Ribeira and Rua Cima do Muro (p. 679). Afternoon : Fraga
da Batalha (p. 580); Passeio das Fontainhas (p. 580); Si (p. 581); ^Ponte de
Dom^ Luiz Primeiro (p. 581) ; Ifossa Senhora da Serra do Pilar (p. 582J. —
2nd Day. Excursion to Sao Joao da Foz and Mattosinhos (ppi 582, 583).
Oporto (^Portuguese o Porto j *the harbour'), an important oom-
meiclal city with 150,000 inhab., the see of a bishop, and the capital
of a district, is one of the most beautifully situated places in the
Iberian Peninsula. It spreads oTer the slopes of the hills descend-
ing abruptly to the N. bank of the Dou/ro, while the suburb of VUla
'. NovadeOaia, with its villas, convents, grain-elevators, and gardens,
nestles at the base of the similarly formed granitic rock on the S.
" shore. To the E. the valley is hemmed in by perpendicular walls
^, of granite, 300-330 ft. high, but below the Ponte de Dom Luiz the
; river expands into the harbour of Oporto. Farther to the W. the
" river-banks become flatter and flatter, till the mouth of the river is
J reached at the cliffs of S&o Jo&o da Foz (p. 582; comp. the Map,
p. 582). At Oporto the river-heights are interrupted by several deep
J* transverse gorges, forming isolated hills, now crowned with hand-
l. some edifices. It is with difficulty that the houses have found
:j; standing-room in these gorges and on their steep sides, or, below, ftn
iji the narrow margin of the river. As at Lisbon, they press closely on
*pl; and above one another, forming architectural terraces of very pic-
(sjf turesque effect. The higher parts of the city afford good views of the
v« ocean, which is about 3 M. off.
^ Like Lisbon, Oporto is divided Into two distinct parts by the
itc Bio da Villa (now canalized and bridged over), which flows into the
\d Douro at the Pra^a da Ribeira (p. 579). The most prominent build-
^ ing in the E. portion is the 8e (p. 581), in the W. the Victoria
'^ Church. The cathedral - Jiill is the oldest part of the town^ anO
576 Route 64, OPORTO. History.
W&8 occupied by the Visigoths and Moors. Modern Oporto spreads
over the Victoria hill. Between the two hills are the husiness-streets
proper, beginning at the Praga de Dom Pedro and ending at the
river. Beyond the depression of the Quinta das Virtudes the Vic-
toria hill is continued by a height which, with its Crystal Palace
(p. 678), recalls the Buenos Ayres hill and Estrella Church at Lisbon.
The quarters of the city on the plateau to the N. of the two main
hills are uninteresting. ^
Oporto is as little a town of the past as Lisbon ; its antiquities
are scanty, and it has few 'lions' of any kind. But a brisk.life pul-
sates in all its arteries. Large vessels, dwindling into insignificance
in contrast with the lofty granite banks, crowd the river, accompanied
by the curious Bareos BaheUo, which bring the wine firom the Palz
do Vinho (p. 586). The streets are always full of traders and of ox-
waggons, toilsomely transporting their wares to the upper parts of the
town. The parks and public pleasure-grounds are noted for their
luxuriant vegetation, in which the mixture of a northern, and a
southern flora is even more noticeable than at Cintra.
The name of Portugal (*Portn8 Cales') is supposed to be derived from
the old suburb of Cede (p. 582) on the 8. bank of the Douro, which was
perhaps a Roman settlements. Other authorities derive the name from the
French^ who in 999 rebuilt the town, which had been destroyed by the
Moors in 820, and named it Partus Oattorvm.
Oporto^ tliough officially styled Ueal e invicta cidade\ has always been
on the side of the Opposition, forming a natural antagonist to the capital
Lisbon, just as Barcelona does to Madrid. The restless character of the
citizens is shown by the rising of the Ma^aroecK in 1628 against an un-
popular tax, by a similar rising in 1661, by that of 1756 against Pombars
attempted monopoly of the wine-trade, and by the attempt to shake off the
French yoke in 1807. In the Constitutional conflicts of 1820, 1836, 18^
and 1846, the attitude of Oporto was always of the greatest importance.
In 1832 it gave an enthusiastic reception to King Pedro lY., who landed
at Mindello from Brazil with TCOO men ('os sete mil bravos') in order to
defend the right of his daughter Maria da Gloria against the Regent Dom
Miguel ; and as a result the town had to submit to a wearing siege by the
Miguelites (comp. p. 582).
Since then the commerce and prosperity of Oporto have greatly in-
creased, and the native industries have been able to make a ^ood deal
of headway against what was practically a British monopoly. The main
source of its weiJth still, however, remains the exportation of the port-
wine to which it has given name.
a. The West Quarters of the City.
The business-centre of the town is formed by the handsome
Pbaca db Dom Pbdbo (PI. E, 3), which is planted with trees and
has a mosaic pavement like that of the Rocfo at Lisbon (p. 521). On
the N. side stands the Casa de Camara^ or city-hall, dating from
1817. In the middle rises a bronze Equestrian Statue of Pedro IV.
(d. 1834), Emperor of Brazil from 1826 to 1831, executed by the
French sculptor Anatole Oalmels and erected in 1866. In his right
hand the king holds the 'Lei Fundamental', or constitution granted
by him in 1826. The two reliefs of the pedestal refer to his landing
t Mindello (see aboye) and to the bringing of his heart to Oporto.
Museu Municipal. OPORTO. ad. Route, 577
The Boa do Almada ascends from the N.W. corner of the praca id
the church of Mosta Beiihora da Lapa (410 ft. ; PI. D, 1), built in 1755
and containing a sandstone monument with the heart of Pedro IV. Fine
view. — Adjoining the church is an interesting old CemeUry^ with curious
monuments and niche-graves (p. 210).
From the S.W. angle of the Pra^a de Dom Pedro the steep and
animated Cal^ada dos Oltfrigos ascends to the Igreja doa CUrigos
(426 ft. ; PI. D, 3), built in 1748 by the Italian Nicolb Mazzcm,
The ciaipella-m6r is handsome. Adjacent is the Torre dos ClirigOB
(246 ft.), a granite structure erected in 1765-63 at the expense of
the 'clergy' of Oporto, and affording an extensive panorama.
The keeper (sineiro; fee 200 rs.) lives on the N. side of the tower.
The ascent is comparatively easy. Among the chief points in the magni-
ficent panorama are the twin towers of the Lapa Church to the N. \ the
valley of the Douro, the railway-bridge, and the Serra de Marao (p. 586)
to the E. ; the cathedral, the Luiz bridge, Villa Nova de Gala, and the old
convent of Serra do Pilar to the S. \ the Crystal Palace, the Douro. Sao
Joao da Foz, and the ocean to the W. The town lies at our feet like a
relief-plan.
To the N. of the Clerigos lies the Mebcado do Anjo (PI. D, 8),
shaded with trees and much frequented in the morning. In the
middle is a granite fountain.
To the W. of the Clerigos stretches the large ^Jardim da Cor-
doaria or Campo dos Martyres da Patria (PI. D, 3, 4), the pleasure
grounds of which afford a ravishing picture of the rich flora of Oporto
(cafe', see p. 574). The S.E. side of the Oampo is occupied by the
Tribunal (court-house) and the Cadeia da BelagSo (gaol) of the 18th
cent. ; the S.W. side by the Casa de Roda (foundling-hospital ; p. 624)
and the Pra^a do Peixe (fish-market). To the N.W. is the Real Hos-
pital de Santo Antonio da Misericordia; with an Escola Medica estab-
lished in 1883. To the N.E. is the Academia, with a Polytechnic
founded in 1877. — To the N. of the Academy lies the Pra^a dos
Vohmtarios da Rainha (PI. D, 3), the name of which ('volunteers of
the queen') refers to the contests with the Miguelites. It has a'taste-
ful fountain and is adjoined by the two churches of the CarmOj one
dating from 1756 and the other from 1619. Still farther to the N. is
the Praga de Carlos Alberto (PI. D, 3), named after the King of
Sardinia, who abdicated after the battle of Novara (1849) and died
at Oporto the same year.
The RuA DA RESTAUBA9io descends from the Campo dos Martyres
to the S.W. towards the Bouro. In it, just beyond the Largo db
ViRiATo, stands the Mnsen Hnnicipal (PI. C, 3, 4), containing an
unimportant collection of paintings (chiefly copies), small anti-
quities, and objects of natural history, established by an Englishman
named Allen. Adm. daily, except Men., 10-3 ; catalogue of 1852.
Boom I. To the right: 135. Claude Lorrain, Architectural piece; 104.
Fan Dyck, Bearing of the Cross (copy)^ 415. Jean PillemaU (Lyons; 1728-
1808), Landscape, 87. Th. Rombovt$, Conversation-piece; 82. Giffoli, St.
Francis; 65. Van Dyck, Martyrdom of St. Sebastian (copy); 35. Pilltment^
Landscape; 28. Rubens^ Marriage of Peleus (copy). — The cases contain
shells, snakes, stuffed birds, and the like.
Baedekeb's Spain and Portugal. 37
57S Boutedd, OPOSTO. CrytUd Palace.
Boom II. To the rieht: 269. Com. Sehut uidi>. Beghan^ Holy F»mUy
in a wreath of flowers ; 266. Fittement, Landscape \ 256. Rubens^ Baising of
the Cross (copy)} 257. RtmbouU^ Conversation-piece; 221. FiUemeiU^ Ship-
wreck; 216. Vme. Camuccini^ Si. Francis; 168, 160. Oerman ScAaoi (i6th
cent.), Adoration of the Shepherds, Presentation in the Temple ; 172. Bibtra^
Pieta (copy); 159. JHHement^ Landscape; 145. Sehut and Segkers, St. Ignatius
Loyola in a wreath of flowers. — In the middle of the room are a Boman
sarcophagus, a tahle-top made of rare marblei , and a yaloable collection
of gems.
Book IIL To the right: 361. aJ9. Van Dyck{Jl\ Portraits; 360. Bom-
helU^ Choir of Capuchins in a Boman church; opposite, 297. BomibeUi^
Girls' school at Homes 296. H. Bigand^ Portrait. — The cases contain
coins, medals, fans, and miniatures.
From the Largo de Viriato (see above) the Rua da Liberdade
runs to the N.W., while at the end of it the Rua doTbiumfho leads
to the left (W.), passing (right) the Palaaio Real (PI. C, 3), to the
Raa do Palacio do Crystal.
The ♦Crystal Palace (PI. B, 0, 3, 4; adm. 60, on Mon. 20, on
Sun. and holidays 100 rs. ; concerts on holidays), a large edifice
erected for the industrial exhibition of 1865, stands high above the
Douro and contains a restaurant , ball-rooms, a theatre , and some
shops. The Chapel on the S. commemorates Charles Albert of Sar-
dinia (1851; see above). The S. portion of its lovely gardens af-
fords a grand view of the city, river, and sea, seen to greatest ad-
vantage by evening-light. To the E. is a small menagerie, and beyond
the road (bridge) is the Muuu Industrial e Commercial.
From the Crystal Palace we may follow the Rua da Boa Nova to the
K.E. to the triangular Campo Peqdeko (PI. C, 2, 3), in the S.W. comer of
which is the gate (ring; fee 100 rs.) of Ihi Cemiterio dos Inglttes^ laid out
in 1817 and conteining the EnglUh Church (St. James's). —The Boa da
Cabvalhosa runs hence to the N. to the interesting Romanesque church
of Sao Hartinho de Oedofeita (PI. C, 1, 2). The name ('cito facta') refers
to an earlier church, which, according to the story, Theodomir, King of
the Snevi, who had been converted from Arianism, 'hurriedly' erected on
this site while the relics of St. Martin of Tours were on their way to
Oporto. .The present church dates from the 12th cent., but its interior has
been entirely modernized. The capitals of the columns inside, as well as
of those in the W. portal (Romanesque) and N. portal (early-Gk>thic), de-
serve attention.
A few yards farther on the Rua da Carvalhosa ends at the Rua da Boa
Vista (PI. B-D, 1). Following this towards the W., we pass (right) the
Hospital Militar de Dom Pedro Quinto (18G2; PI. B, 1) and reach the Rotunda
da Boa Vista (PI. A, 1; p. 582). To the left are the Bull Bing and the Ce-
miterio de Agramonte^ containing a large monument 'to the victims burned
in a theatre in 1888. — Tramway to the Praya de Dom Pedro, see p. 574.
From the Largo de Viriato (p. 577) the Rua dos Foguetbiros
(PI. D, 3, 4) leads past the (right) flower-show of the Real Com-
panhia Horticolo-Agricola (adm. free), and high above the ravine of
Virtudes (p. 576), to the attractive Fasseio das Vlrtades (PI. C,
D, 4), which affords a fine view of the Crystal Palace , the Douro,
and the ocean. — The short Rua das Virtudes leads hence to the
E. to the Rua do Galvario, containing the house (tablet) in which
'he novelist Almeida Oarrett (1799-1854) was born. Hence we de-
end to the Rua das Taypas (PL D, 4).
Sao Franeiaeo. OPORTO. 64. Route. 579
The RuA DO BsLLOMONTE (PI. D, 4), at the S. end of the Rua
das Taypas, marks the beginning of the oldest part of Oporto, with
its quaint balconied houses, most of which are covered with coloured
tiles. To the E. we see the high-lying cathedral and bishop's pal-
ace ; to the right, across the Douro, is the railway-viaduct.
From the La&qo db Sao Dominoos (PI. D, 4) we descend to the
S.E. through the handsome Rua de Sao Joao (PI. D, 4), the chief
business-street of Oporto. It was constructed in 1765 to connect
the Ribeira for 'bank') with the upper town and crosses the Rio da
Villa (p. 675) by a viaduct.
To the right opens the Rua do Infante Dom Hbnbique (PI. E,
D, 4), formerly named the Rua doa IngUzes^ with banks, wholesale
houses, and steamboat'Offlces. The upper stories are often supported
by huge granite brackets. The corner-house to the right is the so-
called English Factory House (Assoeia^So Britannica), an impos-
ing building erected by William Whitehead in 1785 and now used
as a kind of club (ball-room, library, etc.). — To the N. of this
street, on a small hill, lies the church of —
8§U> Trancisco (Pl.D, 4), a Gothic Basilica of 1410, with a large
rose-window. The interior contains some elaborate gilt wood-carving
of the 17-1 8th cent, and the graceful Renaissance monument of
Francisco Brandao Pereira (d, 1528). — Adjoining the church, on
the site of a Franciscan convent burned down in 1832, is the Ex-
chaxige (BoUa)^ with a bold glass roof over the court, a handsome
staircase, and a fine hall decorated in the Moorish style.
In the subarb of Miragaia^ a little to the W. of the Franciscan church,
is the ancient church of 8ao Pedro (PI. D, 4), said to occupy the site of
the original cathedral of Oporto ^ it was substantially rebuilt in the 17th
century. Not far off is the large Alfdndega (PL G, D, 4), or custom-house
(business-hours 9-3), connected by railway with the E. Station.
We now descend to the Douro by the Rua de Sio Joao, or direct
to the S.E. from the Franciscan church by the Travessa de Slo Nicolau.
Interesting popular types may be studied in the Pbaca da Ribeiba
(PI. E, 4) and in the Rua Cima do Muro, which runs along on a
level with the roofs of the houses. Even more interesting, however,
than the quaint medley of longshoremen and ox-carts or than the
mediaeval-looking houses with their projecting gables is the ♦View
of the magnificent Bridge of Dom Luiz (p. 581), the iron girders of
which enclose the landscape as in a frame. In the background is
the railway-bridge (p. 565).
From the quay we now return to the Largo de Sao Domingos
see above). A little higher up, on the left side of the Rua das Flobbs
~^1. D, E, 4), lies the church of Noasa Senhora da Misericordia, re-
built in 1750. In the secretaria of the adjoining Santa Caaa is a
celebrated picture of the Fountain of Life, attributed to Grao Vasco,
but really by some Flemish master unknown. — The sarcophagus in
JYont of the church contains the bones of the ^martyrs' executed in
1828 during the regency of Dom Miguel.
37*
(S€
580 Bcuie 64, OPORTO. 8do Ldzaro.
The Rna das Flores is second in importance to the Raa de Sao
Joto alone. On the left side are the shops of the QoldmiUhs, on the
right those of the Cloth Dealers.
Oporto is CamoQS for its * Geld and Silver Wares, chiefly consistiDe of
large and bemvy omamenta for the well-to-do peasantry of Kinho and the
Pais do Vinho (p. 566). Some of them are in filigree work, others consist
of plates of gold beantifiilly enamelled in blue, white, and pink. The
patterns are curioiu and often resemble tho«e of the Moors. Among the
most characteristic pieces are the earrings (often 8-9 inches long) and the
^hearts' (corofffes) worn on broad chains across the breast. The silver
purses and the enamelled brooches form convenient sonvenirs for visitors.
From the Rua das Flores we may return to the Pra^a de Dom
Pedro either across the Largo dos Loyos (PI. E, 3) or by the Pra<;a
de Almeida Garrett (PI. E, 3). In the latter, formerly called the
Feira de Sio Bento, is the new proTisional Central Station (p. 573).
b. The East Quarten of the City. The Sonth Bank of the Booro.
From the top of the Rua db Santo Antonio (PI. E, 3), which
ascends from the S.E. corner of the Pra^a de Dom Pedro, we obtain
an unexpectedly fine view along the line of the Cal^ada dos Clerigos
(p. 577). Following the tramway-line towards the S. (right), we
pass the church of Sdo Ildefonso (PI. E, F, 3), a handsome baroque
structure approached by a flight of steps. Beyond this lies the JFVaf a
da Batalha (PI. E, F, 3), an attractive square with a mosaic pave-
ment. To the left is the Post Office (p. 574), to the right the Opera
House (p. 575). In the centre is a Statue of Pedro V. (1853-61),
erected in 1862.
Following the tramway to the N.E., through the Ruas Entre-
pardes and the SHo Lazaro, we reach the Jardim de Sdio L&zaro
(PI. F, 3), the beautiful grounds of which are adjoined on the N.E.
by a secularized Capuchin convent, now containing the PwftWciifcrart/
(founded by Peter IV. ; 150,000 vols.) and the Athbneu Dom Pedro.
The collections of the latter include some unimportant ancient and
modern pictures, a few plaster -casts, a tablet of Limoges enamel
with 26 scenes from the life of Christ (16th cent), the sword of
King Aflfonso Henrique (?), and other relics.
The tramway continues to run to the N.E. through the Ruas do Heroismo,
do Freixo, and da Estayao, to the E. Railway Station in GampanhS (p. 673).
— The Rua do Freixo leads to the Palaeio do Freixo. a baroque building
of the 17th cent., with a beautiful garden, situated high above the Douro,
2 H. to the E.
From the S. W. corner of the Jardim de Sio Lazaro the Rua das
FoNTAiNHAS, passiug the Asylo de Mendicidade (poor-house ; PI. F^
G, 3), leads to the *PasBeio das Fontainhas (PI. F, 4), a pleasant
promenade high above the Douro, commanding a fine view of the
river, the S. shore, the two bridges, and the Serra de Marao.
A little to the E. is the Seminario (PI. H, 3, 4), which played an im-
portant rdle in the capture of Oporto by Wellington (p. 582). To the N.
of it extend* the Cemiterio do Prado de Repowo (PI. H, 3).
From the W. end of the Passeio das Fontainhas we tarn to the
Ponte de Bom Luiz I, OPORTO. 6d. Boute. 581
right to the Labgo da PoLicfA (PI. E, F, 4), where are some re-
mains of the old City Wall^ with its towers. Hence we follow the
AvBNiDA DB Saraiva BE Cabvalho (PI. E, 4), which descends, mak-
ing a sharp hend, to the Ponte de Dom Luiz (see helow). To the
left of this street is the Gampo da Santa Clara, containing the church
of Santa Clara (PI. E, 4), which resemhles Sao Francisco (p. 679)
in its elahorate carving and gilding. Instead of descending to the
river, we follow the Rua Cha, which leads in a straight direction
from the above-mentioned bend and ascends to the cathedral.
The SA (PI. E, 4), which lies on the apex of the E. hill, on the
site of the old castle of the Suevi, was originally a Romanesque
building of the 12th cent., afterwards rebuilt in the Gothic style,
and lastly almost wholly modernized in the 17-18th centuries. The
exterior is, however, still imposing, mainly on account of the iron-
grey granite of which it is entirely composed. Characteristic features
are the two low doors, the central tower, and the rose-window on the
W. We enter the church from the W. by a sort of platform.
The Intekiob offers little of interest. The red and white marble floor
is generally covered. In the handsome CapeUa-Mdr there stood, down to
1843, the sarcophagus prepared in the reign of Emmanuel for St. Panta-
leon, the tutelar of the city.
The Gothic *Cloi8tbss, to the S. of the cathedral (entr. from the S.
aisle), with their granite vaulting and richly articulated pillars^ date from
1385. The window-opening between each two pillars is subdivided by two
coupled columns. In the middle of the quadrangle rises a high granite
cross. The walls are adorned with mosaics of blue and white azulejos,
with realistic representations from Ihe Song of Solomon and explanatory
inscriptions from the Vulgate (middle of the 18th cent.). — Visitors should
ascend the handsome granite staircase on the S. side, in order to view the
cloisters from above. The walls here are covered with azulejo-mosaics.
The Sacriity^ to the E. of the cloisters, has a Holy Family of the 17th
cent., wrongly ascribe^ to Raphael.
From the W. front of the cathedral we proceed to the S. to the
large Po^qo Episcopal (18th cent.), which contains a fine staircase.
We now descend by the Avenlda de Saraiva de Carvalho to the
**Fonte de Dom Luiz Frimeiro (PI. E, F, 4, 5 j toU 5 rs.), which
crosses the Douro in a single arch of 560 ft. span, surpassed in
Europe only by the bridge over the Danube at Cernavoda (span of
central arch, 626 ft.). There are two roadways, one 33 ft. above the
river, the other 200 ft. The strain is supported by two huge towers
on the bank, surmounted by strong iron frame-work. The bridge
was constructed by a Belgian company (Soci^t^ des Constructions
de Willebroeck) and is perhaps the most beautiful structure of the
kind in Europe. The upper roadway affords a superb view of the
city and the valley of the Douro.
The tourist visiting Oporto seldom obtains any just idea of the de-
structive violence that the Douro is capable of. In the time of the winter
rains (Jan. and Feb.), the avenidas or cfieicu (from the Latin plenum) often
form veritable avalanches of water, raising the river 20 ft. above its ordin-
ary level, flooding the Ribeira and the Villa Ifova, and sometimes snap-
ping the cables of large sea-going vessels. In 1860 great devastation wp"
wrought in the Douro valley by an inundation of this character.
EnvironB. OPORTO. 64, RouU. 583
Travellers • should alight here, if for no other reason, to look at the
singular *Bar of tJu Douro. The only navigable channel is close to the
right bank, the rest of the entrance to the river being occupied by danger-
ous reefs (partly removed by gunpowder) and by a spit of sand projecting
from the 8. bank. The river is here engaged in a never-ending struggle
with rock and sand and ocean-waves. A breakwater, named the Canta-
reira^ enables even large vessels to enter the river, except during freshetst
or in stormy weather} but the passage is never entirely free from danger
and may not be attempted without a pilot. — The boats of Foz are curious.
There are three recognized varieties: the Eiate^ the high-prowed, canoe-
like boats of Ovar (p. 665), and the Rosea, with its three stumpy masts
and lateen sails.
From Foz the tramways run to the N.W. along the Ptaia^ with
its sandy bathing-coves separated by black cliffs. On the sand-
strewn ridge to the right stand a long row of villas and lodging-
houses, the pilot-station, and a small lighthouse f'^aroZ^. Farther
on is the Ccutello do Queijo,
5 M. Mattosinhos (Hdtel Novo Lishonense; H6tel de Francisco
Ariz) is preferable to Sao Joao as a bathing-place on account of its
sandy beach. It lies on the much-besung Xcpa, on the bank of
which rises a statue of the poet Passos Manoel.
Mattosinhos is famous for the miracle-working Crucifijo in the church
of Bom Jems d« Bougas, which annually draws about 30,000 pilgrims from
all parts of Portugal. This crucifix , one of four wooden figures of Our
Lord carved by Nicodemus, floated all the way from Joppa to Portugal,
landing on May 3rd, 117, at Leixoes (see below), on the site now occupied
by the chapel of Notse Senhor de Areia (sand). On the way it lost an
arm, which was found 50 years later by a woman gathering firewood on
the beach.
On the right bank of the Le^a, connected with Mattosinhos by
a long iron bridge, lies Le9a da Falmeira (H6t. Estephania ; Hot.
Central), the terminus of the tramway, a clean little place with
many attractive villas.
At the mouth of the Le^a, between the two villages, is the Porto
de Leixdes, a harbour 240 acres in extent, formed in 1883-90 by the
construction of two breakwaters, 5240 ft. and 3766 ft. in length. It
is to be connected with Oporto by railway.
From Opobto to P6voa de Vabzim, 18 M., railway in IV2 hr. (fares
540, 338 rs.). — This narrow-gauge line, starting from the Estag&o do
Caminho de Ferro da Pdvoa (p. 673), runs to the N. along the coast. 4 M.
Ciatoiat; 12 M. Mindello; 16 M. Villa do Conde. — 18 M. F6voa de Yarzim
(Hotels), a fishing- town with 12,460 inhab., is one of the most frequented
sea-bathing resorts in Portugal. — Hence to Famaligdo, see p. 584.
65. From Oporto to Braga.
33 M. Railway {Unhas do Minho; 8 trains daily) in 2V2 hrs. (fares
1030, 800, 570 rs.). There are two additional local trains itom Nine to
Braga. Trains start from the EstagSo Central (p. 573).
Oporto, see p. 673. The train stops at the Esta^do do Caminho
de Ferro Norte (p. 673) and runs to the N.E. 3 M. Rio Tinto. —
6*/2 M. Ermezinde (322 ft^ is the junction of the line to Fuente San
Est^an (Salamanca; R. 66). We cross the Le^a and turn to the N.
— 10 M. Sao Romao. — 141/2 M. Trofa.
584 Rouuea. BRAOA. From oporto
Fbom Tbofa to OuzmabXbb, 21 H., railw»f in i^/tia. — The chief
intermediate station is (1611.) Vittlla (hotels), with warm sulphur springs
(90-12(f Fahr.), known to the Romans and used both for drinking and
bathing. — 21 M. Ouimaries iOrande Hotels well spoken of), the oldest
eity of purely Portiunese origin in the kingdom, lies on the right bank
of the Ave. Pop. 8000. OuimarSes. was the birthplace of Affonso Hen-
riques (1110^), the first King of Portugal (comp. p. 504). In 1127 Bgas
Honiz, the tutor of the young prince, prevailed upon Alfonso VII. of
Castile to raise the siege of Guimaraes by promising that Affonso would
submit to the Spanish sovereign. Affonso afterwards refused to ralify
this submission; and Kgas Honiz surrendered himself and his family to
Alfonso VII., who, however, refused to take advantage of this loyal self-
sacrifice. The collegiate church of No$»a Senhora da Oliveira^ built by
Joao I. (ca. 1390), still possesses some fine features in spite of its modern-
ization; and its beautiful Ootiiic tower is practically intact. The impos-
ing and well-preserved mediseval * Castle (fine view), the Town Wall*, and
other remains are also interesting. — Citania (see p. 585) is 8-10 H. from
GuimarSes.
Beyond Trofa tbe train continues [to ran towards the N. 20 M.
Villa Nova de Famal^So is the junction of a branch-line to (18 M.)
Vovoa de Varzim (p. 683).
241/2 M. Nine is the point where the branch-railway to Braga
leaves the main line.
The main line continues to run towards the N., passing (32 M. from
Oporto) Barcellos, (51 M.) Vianna do CmUIIo (Brit, vice-consul), and (65 M.)
Caminha^ and reaching the frontier at (80 M.) Valenga do Minho (5 hrs. from
Oporto ; fares 2460, 1920, 1370 rs. ; railway-restaurant), a fortified town on
the left bank of the MinhOy connected by a bridge with (1 M.) the Spanish
town of Tu!f (see p. 493). Between I^ine and Valenca the train passes
through a continual succession of orchards, vineyards, corn-fields, and
groves of cork-trees.
The Braga line runs to the N.E., passing the two small stations
of (28 M.) Arentim and (30 M.) Tadim,
33 M. Braga (682 ft.; Hot. Franqueira; Hot. Central; cafes
in the Campo 8. Anna), the third city of the kingdom (23,000 in-
hab.) and the see of an archbishop who is titular Primate of Portu-
gal, lies on an elevated plain near the river Cdvado. It is now a
prosperous industrial town, manufacturing felt hats, jewellery,
cutlery, and firearms. Its streets are wide, and it is still surrounded
by walls and towers.
Braga was the Roman Bracara Attgusta^ and in the 6th cent, was
the capital of the JSuevi. Later it passed into the hands of the Goths and
the Moors, being taken from the latter by Alfonso of Castile. It played
a very .important rdle in the early history of the Portuguese kingdom,
and was the seat of the court before the capture of Coimbra and Lisbon.
The principal building in Braga is the Cathedral, originally
erected at the beginning of the 12th cent, but rebuilt in the late-
Gothic period and disfigured with modern alterations, especially
in the interior. The W. portal is a fine example of transitional Gothic,
and there is a Romanesque door on the S. side. In the capella-mor
^ are the tombs of the Gonde Henrique and Dofia Theresa, father and
mother of the first King of Portugal (see above); and in the Gap. de
NossA Senhora do Sacramento is that of Archbp. Looren^o de Lou-
inha, who took an active part in the battle of Aljubarrota (p. 565).
to Braga. BRAGA. 65. BotOe, 585
The oaken stalls in the coro alto are a good specimen of cinqneeento
carving. Among the relics in the sacristy are the chalice said to
have heen used at the christening of Affonso Henriques (p. 584),
and another of the 16th cent., of gold, in the form of a tower with
bells. — To the N.E. of the cathedral is the Archiepiscopal Palace,
containing a good library and portraits of the Archbishops of Braga.
The church of Santa Cruz has a fine facade (1642), and that of
St. Benedict (1616) contains some excellent azulejos. — On the S, side
of the large Campo Santa Anna is the Public Library, with many rare
books and MSS.
About 3M. to the E. of Braga (tramway from the rail, station;
fare 250 ra.) is the famous pilgrimage-church of *Bom Jesus do
Monte (18o0 ft), beautifully situated on the crest of a hill and
commanding a magnificent view. In ascending the hill we pass
several small chapels and oratories, and at the top are several other
chapels. The principal church, which is very plain, contains a huge
wooden altar-piece with lifesize figures, a few portraits, and a beau-
tiful crucifix of ebony and ivory. This spot is visited at Whitsuntide
by many thousands of pilgrims. There are two fair Hotels near the
church; and those who make any stay at Braga may find at one of
these pleasanter quarters than in the city itself. — The ascent may
be continued to (1 Y4 M. ; road) the top of the Monte Samdro (2535 ft.),
where there is another shrine. The *View is more extensive than
that from the Bom Jesus.
Bxcorsions. Braga is a good centre from which to explore the province
of Minfio, the scenery of which, with its woods and hills and luxuriant
vegetation, is said to be the most beautiful in Portugal. — A favourite
excursion is that to Valestqa via. Fonts do Lima (ca. 90 M. % carriage-road).
At Ponte do Lima (inn) the road crosses the 2/tma, by a long bridge of
24 arches. The Romans named this lovely district the 'Elysian Fields',
and they called the river *Lethe\ because its charms were supposed to
make the traveller forget his own home and country. Valenga^ see p. 584.
— Other excursions may be made to the frequented springs of Caldas do
Gerez (1500 ft.; hotels), which lie about 25M. to the X.E. (road), delight-
fully situated on the slopes of the Serra do Oerez; to Arcos de Yalle de Vez,
20 M. to the K., from which the Ovteiro Major (7780 ft.) , the highest
mountain in Portugal, may be ascended in 5 hrs. ; to Vianna (p. 534) ; and
to Chaves, 50 M. to the IT.E.
About 10 M. to the 8.E. of Braga, on the small hill of S. Romao, is
the mysterious buried city of Oitania, now supposed to be of Celtic
origin. The remains consist chiefly of singular round structures of granite,
15-30 ft. in diameter. A full account of them is given in Oswald CraufurcTs
'Portugal Old and New\
66. From Oporto to Faente San Estiban (Salamanca,
Medina del Campo).
174 H. Railway (one through-train daily) in ca. 12 hrs. (farea SO p. 15,
28 p. 13, 15 p. 17 c); to Salamanca (209 H.) in ca. 14 hrs., to Medina del
Campo (257 M.) in ca. iO^/* hrs. A local train also runs from Oporto to
Regoa, and on Sat. there is a so-called express (7 hrs.) to Barea d^Alva.
Carriages are changed and luggage examined at Fregeneda (in the reverse
direction at Barca tTAIva). There is, however, one through carriage fo'
586 RouU 66. REGOA. From Oporto
AmWcIms p«8Miic«r0. — Tbere em Bimple railway-reaUunnto at Fr^gwtda
and Fmante San Biiebtmy and poorly anpplied refreahmeni-coimten at Regoa
and Barca d'Alva.
The Journey throagh the fertile Talley of the Douro ia very attract-
ive« eapeclally between PeUla and CopelUnhat. The wild beauty of the
rocky valley of the Agueda ia hardly paralleled elaewhere in the Iberiaa
Peninsula. Beat viewa to the right.
From Oporto to (6V2 M.) Ermezinde (320 ft.), the junction for
the N. Portugal lines, see p. 583. Our line now leaves the well-
tilled hill-district of Oporto and runs to the S.E. across the Sara de
VdUongo^ a desolate range of slate mountains, supporting nothing
save heather and a few pines. Near (10 M.) Vallongo are old anti-
mony and silver mines. — Beyond (I6V2 M.) Recarei the train
ascends to the N.E., through the pleasant valley of the Souza, passing
several small stations. A good deal of wine is produced here, the
vines heing usually trained on trees or on trellises (ramoda ; Ital.
pergola). — 26*/2 M. Meinedo,
We now ascend rapidly towards the E. to (28 M.) Caide. In the
foreground appears the 8erra de MarSo (4666 ft.), beyond which lies
Traz OS Montes. — 32 M. Villa MeS, in a wide valley watered by
the Odrea. The train follows the Odres to (34 MJ Livrct^So and
crosses the green Tamega by an iron ^Bridge, 184 ft. above the
stream. It then descends to the S.E., vik (37^2 M.) Marco and
(4OV2 M.) Juneal, into the valley of the Douro, here enclosed by
lofty wooded hills. — 4272 M. Palla, high over the right bank of
the Douro. The valley here is rich in vines, olives, oranges, figs,
and other varieties of a southern vegetation. — 49 M. Arigoa, with
sulphur-baths (140® Fahr.) ; 6272 M. Ermida, charmingly situated
in a side-valley. Several other small stations. Beyond (61 M.) Mo-
ledo, with alkadine springs, the valley expands.
64 M. Begoa or Peso da Regua (Buffet)^ a small town prettily
situated on the vine- clad slopes, a little below the mouth of the
Cargo, is the centre of the Pcuz do Viriho,
The Paiz do Vinho , the home of Ihe nobleat vintages of port-wine
(p. 676), embracea this part of the valley of the Douro and the hilly
country on -both sides of the Gorgo as far K. aa Villa Seal. The soil ia
yellow- brown mica-achist. The vinea are trained on short stakea and grow
on ateep terraces, oiten painfully built up out of the stony soil by the mat-
tock of the industrious 'Gallegos' (Galiciana); they require careful attention
throughout the whole year. — The vintage lasts from the end of Sept till
the second half of October. The wine is taken to Oporto partly by rail-
way and partly by the river. The curious Bareot RabeUo used for this
purpose are flat-bottomed barges with an enormous rudder; and it re-
quires no little skill to pilot them safely past the innumerable reefs,
ahallows, and rapids of the Douro. The better aorta of wine are kept at
Oporto two years before being sent to England, Brazil, Germany, and
other countries. Host of the wine-merchanta are Engliah or Gterman. The
average price of a pipe of wine C115 gallons) is about 80-35/.
The valley now contracts. We cross the Gorgo by an iron bridge
600 ft. long. Beyond (69 M.) Covellinhas the mountain-slopes be-
come barren, and vines and olives are seen but occasionally. —
bove (74 M.) FerrOo are the notorious rapids of Caehuea and Olho
to Fumte San Estiban. FREGENEDA. 66. Route. 587
de Cahra. We cross the Pkihao. 79 M. Pirihdo. Beyond (86 M.)
S&o Mamede de Tua we cross the Tua by a five-arched Iron hridge,
696 ft. in length.
87 M. Tna, the .innction of a branch-line to (34 M.) MirandeUa;
the town lies on the left bank of the Douro.
The valley now contracts to a rocky ravine. The train crosses the
Douro by a bridge with seven arches, 1366 ft. long. — 92 M, Ferra-
doza. On a hill to the left Is a small waterfall. Beyond (95 M.)
.Vargellaa are three tunnels and several viaducts.. — 98 M. Vesuvio,
with vines, orange-trees, and olives. Beyond (102 M.) Freixo the
railway penetrates the mountain by four tunnels. — 107 M. Pocinho
lies in a wide valley among groves of blue gum-frees and olives.
Farther on we skirt the Douro, and beyond (112 M.) C6a we cross
the stream of that name. Two small stations.
124 M. Barca d'Alva (486 ft. ; Buffet), the Portuguese frontier
station, lies at the point where the Agueda^ here forming the bound-
ary, flows into the Douro.
The train ascends to the plateau of Leon along the right bank of
the Agueda, thrQugh a wild rocky •Gorge, intersected by numerous
fountain- torrents. Tunnels (17 in' all), embankments, and viaducts
follow each other in rapid succession. Not a tree, not a human
habitation interrupts the wUdemess of rock.
1'36 M.Tregeneda (Rail. ReataurantJ^ the Spanish frontier-station
and the first place in the province of Salamanca, is loftily situated
on the barren delta formed by the Douro, Agueda, and Yeltes. —
We now traverse the treeless but corn-growing plateau of Leon,
p"assing several unimportant stations. . Beyond (159 M.) Villavieja
the Yeltes is crossed. 169 M. Boada.
174 M. Fuente San Esteban, and theUce to Medina del Canvpo,
see pp. 472-464,
LUt of Artuti.
The following list comprises the more important artists mentioned in
the Handbook. Abbreviations: A. = architect, P. = painter, 8. = scalptor.
The artiflts who are not denoted by an additional word (Flem. = Flemish,
Ger. = German, It. = Italian, Port. = Portuguese, etc.) are Spaniards.
The figures separated from the dates by a dash refer to the pages of the
Handbook.
AUfMt, Juan <fe, A., ca. 1613.
Aleman, Juan Femandez^ S., 15th cent.
— xlix, Ixv.
— , Mietr CrUtdbal, P., ca. 1504.
— , Rodrigo, 8 , 16th cent. — xlix.
Aletio^ Mateo Perez de (da Lecee)^
It. P., d. 1600.
Aletsandro^ Dom. di, see Fancelli.
Al/aroy Franc, S., end of 15th cent.
Alfonso, Rodrigo, A , end of 14th cent.
Algardiy Aleuandro, It. 8. and A.,
1602-1664. - Iv.
Almtdina, Ferrando de. P., end of
15th cent. — Ixix.
Alvares, Josi, S., 1768-1827. — Ixii.
AmUret, Franc. de^'V. andS.,ldth cent.
— Ixvi.
Aneheta, Miguel de, 8., end of 16th cent.
— Iviii.
Anes, Pero (Pedro Annee), Port. A.,
d. after 1518. — 570.
Angelico da Fiesole, Fra Oiov., It. P.,
1387-1465.
Antolinez, Franc., P., 16U-n00. —
Ixxviii.
— , Josi, P., 1639-76. — Ixxxii.
Aparicio, JoU, P., 17731838.
Aprile, Ant. Maria de (de Charona),
It. 8., 16th cent. — li.
Aquilis, Julio de. It. P., 16th cent. —
Ixvii.
Arbasia, Ceear de, It. P., d. 1614. —
Ixxlii.
Arellano, Juan de, P., 1614-76. —
Ixxxii.
Aritmendi, Basque S. — Ixii.
Arphe (or Ar/e), Ant. de, silversmith,
ca. 1520-77. — Iv.
— , Enrique de, Ger. silversmith,
father of the preceding, ea. 1470-
1560. — Iv.
— , Juan de, silversmith, bom 1533.
— Iv.
Badajoz, Juan de, S. and A., 16th cent.
— liv.
BartoUmU, Maeetre, S., ca. 1278. — xl vi.
Ba$k); Victor^ Port. 8.. 1822-94.
Bayeu, Franc., P., 1734-95. — Ixxxiii.
Beearra, Oaepar, 8., 1520-70. — Ivii.
Iviii. Ixvii.
Belles^ ChUUterme de^ Port. P. , 15th cent.
BelUni, Oiov.. It. P., 1426-1516.
Belmonte, Mariano, P., d. 1864.
BengoecKea, Anibroeio de, 8., 16th cent.
— Iviii.
Benlliure, JoU,V. , bom 1855.— Ixxxi v.
— , Mariano, modern S. and P.
Bermejo, Bart., P., ca. 1490. — Ixxiii.
Berruguete,^ Alomo, A., S., &nd P..
ca. 1480-1561. — 1. liv. livii.
— , Pedro, father of the precedine. P.,
d. ca. 1500. — Ixvi, ^" '
Blee, Hendrik de (Civetta), Flem. P.,
ca. 1480- after 1521.
Bocanegra(Fray Atanaeio), P., d.l688.
— Ixxiii.
Bol, Ferd., Dutch P., 1616-80.
Bombelli, Sebaetiano, It. P., 1635-1724.
BorgoSia, Juan de, P., d. ca. 1533. —
Ixvi.
— , Phil, de (Filipe Yigami), brother
of the preceding, A. and 8., d. 1543.
— 1. lii.
Botch, Hieron. van Aken, Flem. P.,
1462-1516.
Bourguignon, see Gourtois.
Boutaea, Port. A., d. before 1528. —
5a6.
BouU, Dierick, F\em. P., 1400?- 1475.
— Ixiv.
Brouwer, Adriam, Flem. P., ca. 1606-
38.
Brueghel, Jan, the Elder, Flem. P.,
15fe-li25.
— , Pieter, the Elder, Flem. P., ca.
1520-69.
Bruges, Carlos de, Flem. P., ca. 1568.
Bueras, Simon de, 8., 16th cent.
Cabezalero, Juan, P., 1633-73. —Ixxxii.
Canibiaso, Luca, It. P., 1627-86. —
Ixvii.
Camilo, Franc.^ P., 1686-71. — Ixxxii.
LIST OF ABTISTS.
589
CampaHa (de Kempeneer)^ Pedro^ Flem.
P., 1503-80. — Ixvii, Ixxiii.
Ceanpero^ Juan, A., 16th cent.
Canwceini, Vine., It. P 1773-1844.
Cano, Aloruo^ P. and S., 1601-67. —
Ix. Ixxii. Ixxiii.
Ccmova, Ant., It. S., 1757-1822.
Caravagaio, Michelangelo Amerighi da.
It. P., 1569-1609.
Cardueho (Carducci), Bart., It. A., 8.,
and P., 1560-1608. — Ixvii.
— , Vine., brother of the preceding.
It. P., 1578(?)-1638. — Ixviii.
Carmona, Luis Salvador, 9., 1709-67.
— Ixi.
Carraeci, Annibale, It. P., 1560-1609.
Carrdlo, Juan, de Miranda, P., 1614-
85, — Ixxxii.
Casado del AUsal, Joi4, P., 1532-86.
CattaHeda, Juan de. A., 16th cent.
CattayU, Maettre Jaime, 8., ca. 1375.
— xlvi.
Caetello, Fabrieio, It. P., d. 1617.
Castilho, Diogo de. Port. A., 16th cent.
— , Jo&o de, brother of the preced-
ing, Port. A., ca. 1490-1681. — 536.
Castillo, Ant. del. P., 1603-67. —Ixxii.
— , Juan del, P., 1584-1640.
Castro, Joaquim Machado de, Port. 8.,
1736-1828.
— , Juan Sanchez de. P., 1454 1516. —
Ixv.
Caviedet, de, modem P.
Cellini, Benvenuto, It. S. and gold-
smith, 1500-1572. — Iv.
Cerezo, Mateo, P., 1686-75. — Ixxxii.
Ceroni, Giov. Ant., It. S., 17th cent.
Ciepedee, Pablo de. P., 1638-1608. —
Ixxiii.
Chatranez, Nic, S., 16th cent.
Churriguera, S., d. 1725. — Ix.
Cigoli, Luigi Cardi da, If. P., 1559-
Cincinnati, Romulo, It. P., d. ca.l600.
— Ixvii.
Claude Lorrain (Gellie), French P.,
1600-1682.
Coello, Alomo Sanchez, P., 1513 (V) 90.
— Ixviii.
— , Claudio, P., 163?-93. — Ixxxii.
Cologne, Johann of (Juan de Colonia),
Ger. A., 15th cent. — xliii,
— , Simon of, son of the preceding,
d. before 1512. — xliii. .
Copin, Diego, Dutch S., 16th cent. — -
liii.
Cordoba, Pedro de. P., ca. 1476. —
Ixxii.
Correa, Diego, P., 16th cent. — Ixvi.
Correggio, Ant. Allegri da, It. P., ca.
Corte, Nic. da. It. S., 16th cent.
— Hi.
Cotdn, Juan Sanchez, P., 1561-1627. —
836.
Courioie, Jacques (Bourguignon),
French P., 1621-76.
Covarrvbias, Alonso de. A., 16th cent.
— 1. liii.
Coxcie, Michiel van, Flem. P., 1499-1592.
Cranach, Lucas, the Elder, Ger. P..
1473-1553.
— , — , the Younger, son of the preced-
ing, Ger. P., 1516-86.
Cristus, Petrus, Flem. P., 4444-72.
Cruz, Diego de la, 8., end of 15th cent.
— , Pantoja de la. P., 1561-1610. —
Ixviii.
Dalmetu, Luisde, P., ca. 1445. — Ixi v.
Dancart, Maestre, A. and 8., end of
16th cent. — xlviii.
David, Geraeri, Flem. P., ca. 1450-
1523. — Ixiv.
Degrain, Ant. MtAoz. modem P.
Delgado, Pedro, 8., 16th cent. — lixj
Dello fiorentino. It. P., d. after 1366.
— Ixiii.
Dolci, Carlo, It. P., 1616-86.
Dolfin, Maestro, Flem. glass-painter,
16th cent.
Domenichino (Domenico Zampieri), It.
P., 1581-1641.
Domingues, Affonso, Port. A., d. be-
fore 1402. — 556.
Donoso, JosS XinUnes, P. and A., 1628-
90
Duck, Jacob Ant., Dutch P., 1600-1660.
DUrer, Albr., Ger. P., 1471-1528.
Dyck, Ant. van, Flem. P., 1599-1641.
Egas,Annequin de, Flem. S., 15th cent.
— xlviii.
— , Ant., Flem. S., 16th cent.
— , Enrique de, Flem. S., d. 1634. —
xlviii. 1. lii.
Elsheimer, Adam, Ger. P., 1578-1620.
Escalante, Juan Ant., P., 1^0-70. —
Ixxxii.
Espinosa, Jacinto Jerdnimo de. P.,
1600-1680. — Ixx.
Evora, FernSo de. Port. A., d. after
1473. — 656.
Eyck, Jan van, Flem. P., after 1380-
1440. — Ixiii.
Fcmcelliy Domenico di Alessandro, It. S.,
d. 1518. - li.
Femandes, Matheus, the Elder, Fort. A.,
d. 1515. — 566.
— , — , the Younger, Port. A., d. 1528.
-556.
Fernandez, Ale jo. P., 16th cent. —
Ixv. Ixxii,
— , Aleman Juan, brother of the pre-
ceding, P., 16th cent. — Ixv.
590
LIST OF ARTISTS.
Fernamdez,Ariat,V., d. 1684.— IxxxU.
tlandu. Arnao de, Flem. glass-painter,
d. 1567. — Uvii.
— , Juan d4 (Flamenco), Flem. P.,
16th cent. — - Ixiv.
FlorenHno, JTic, It. P., 16th cent. —
Ixiii.
Fornuni, Damian, 8., d. 1633. — Ivi.
Fortune, Mariano^ P., 1838-74. —
Ixxxv.
Oaitua, Mortin, A. and S., d. 1666. -
liii.
Gallego, Juan, A., 16th cent.
QalUgoty Fernando, P., 1475-1550. —
Jxiv.
Galofri p Coma, JoU, P., d. 1877. —
Ixxxiv.
Gamiz, Pedro Lopez de, 8., 16th cent.
— Iviii.
Gand, Olivel de, Flem. S., 16th cent.
Garcia^ Alvar de. A., 11th cent.
Garofalo, Benvenuto Tut da. It. P.,
1481-1569.
Gazini, Pace, It. S., 16th cent. — li.
Giordano, Lvea, It. P., 1632-1706. —
Ixxxii.
Giorgione (Giorgio Barbarelli), It. P.,
. 1477(?)-1510.
Giehert, Ant., modern P.
Gomez, Alvar, A., 15th cent.
Goya, Franc., P., 1746-1828. — Ixxxiii.
Granello, Nic, It. P., d. 1593.
Gwu, Juan, Flem. A., 15th cent.
Qiurcino, it (Giov. Franc. Barbieri),
It. P., 1590-1666.
Guillen, Diego, S., ca. 1526. — liii.
Iviii.
-T-, S., ca. 1566. — Iviii.
Gumiel, Pedro, 8., d. ca.l516. — xlviii.
Haifa, Rodrigo &nd Martin de, 8., end
of 16th cent. — Iviii.
Seem. Jan Davidtzoon de, Dutch P.,
1606 -ca. 83.
Hernandez, Gregorio, S., 1566-1636. —
lix.
— , Jerdnimo, S., 1586-1646. — lix.
— , Rodrigo, A., 16th cent.
Herrera, Franc, the Elder (el Viejo),
P., ca. 1576-1656. — Ixix. 396.
— . — , the Younger (el Mozo), P., 1622-
85. — Ixxvii.
— , Juan de, A., ca. 1530-1597.
— Bamuevo, Sebariiano de, 1619-71. —
ixxxiii.
Holanda, Alberto de, Dutch gla^s
. painter, 16th cent.
— , Juan de, Flem. P., 16th cent. —
Ixiv.
Holbein, Ham, the Younger, Gee. P.,
1497-1643.
ntiOon, Jwm Gil de, A., d. 1681.
Hontofhn, Rodrigo Gil de, son of the
preceding, A., 16th cent.
Joanee, Juan., see Macip.
Jodo. Mestre, Port. P., d. 1528.
Jordaene, Jakob, Flem. P., 159S-1678.
Jordan, Ett4ban, S., 1543-1603. — lix.
Juana, Juan, see Macip.
Juni, Juan de, S., d. ca. 1586. — lix.
Juvara, Fil., It. A., 1L86-1735.
Lara, GonzaUt de. A., 1788-1827.
Leonardo da Vinci, It. P.,, S., and A.,
1452-1519.
— , Josd, P., 1616-56. — Ixxxii.
Leoni, Leone, It. 8., 1509-92. — Iv.
— , Pompeo. It. S., son of the preced-
ing, d. 1610. — Iv.
Leopardi,Alea»andro, It. S., 1480-1540.
Llanos, Ferrando de. P., end of 15th
cent. — Ixix.
— y Valdis, Sebastian de, P., d. after
1668. — Isxvii.
2a>o. Louis Michel van, French P.,
1707-71. — Ixxxiii.
Lopes, Christovdo, Port. P., 1516-1606.
Ludwig, Joh. Friedrich and Joh. Peter,
Germ. A., 18th cent. — 550.
Luiui, Bernardino, It. P., 1470 CO -
1530 (?).
Lusitano, see Hattos.
Machuca, Pedro, A., d. 1550. — Hi.
Macip, Vicente (Juan Joanes), P., 1523-
79. — Ixx.
Madrazo, Josi de, P., 1781-1869. —
Ixxxiv.
— , Federigo de. P., 1815-94. — Ixxxiv.
Maeda, Juan de. A., 16th cent, —337.
Maella, Mariano Salvador, P., 1739-
1819. — Ixxxiu.
Mantegna, Andrea, It. P., 1431-1506.
Maratta, Carlo, It. P., 1625-1713.
March, EsUban, P., d. 1660. — Ixxi.
Marguvete, Pedro Arbulo, S., 16th cent.
— Iviii.
Marmolejo, Pedro Villegas, P., 1520-97.
Mateo, Maestre, S., d. after 1188. —
xlvi.
Matos, Franc, de, S., 16th cent.
Matsvs, Quinten, Flem. P., ca. 1466-
1531. .
Mattos, Franc. Vieira de (Lusitano),
Port. P., 1699-1783.
Ma»ner, Alexander, Ger. P., 16th cent.
— Ixvii.
Mayno, Fray Juan BauHsla de. P.,
1569-1649. - Ixxii.
Mazo, Juan BauHsta del, P., 1630-87.
— Ixxxi.
Mazzolino, Lod., It. P., ca. 1681-
ca. 1530.
Memling, Hans, Flem. P., ca. 1430-96.
LIST OF ARTISTS.
591
Mena, Alonto de, S., cs. 1633.
— , Jwm de, S., 1707-84.
— , Pedro de, S., d. 1693. — Ix.
Mengt, Ant. Rc^hael, Ger. P., 1728-79.
— Ixxxiii.
Mercadante, Loreneo de BretcAa^ 8.,
16th cent. — xlvii.
Meuina, AnUmello da. It. P., d. ca.
1493.
Michelangelo BwmctrrotL It. 8., P., and
. A., 1476-1564.
Mignewd, Fierre, French P., 1610-95.
Miffuel Florentine It,S., 16th cent. — 1.
Millauy Pedro, 8., end of 15th cent. —
. xlix.
Monegro, Juan BatUisCa, 8. and A., d.
1621.
MookAit, Juan Martinet, 8., d. 1649.
— lix. 395.
More. Sir Antony. Netherland. P., ca.
1512-ca. 1576. — Ixviii.
Mora, JoU de, 8., 1638-1725. — Ix.
— , Juan Gomez de. A., d. 1597.
Morales, Luis de. P., ca. 1509-86. —
Ixvii. 458.
Morel, Bart., 8., 16th cent. — Iv.
Morlanes, Diego, 8., 16th cent. — Ivii.
Moya, Pedro de. P., 1610-66. — Ixxiii.
Mudo, el, see Navarrete.
MiMot, aebastian, P., 1654-90. —
Izxxii.
Murillo, BartolonU Estihan, P., 1617-
82. — Ixxiv-lxxvii. 395. 419.
Nurdi, Angela, It. P., ca. 1601-60. —
Ixviii.
Navarrete, Juan Fernandez (el Mudo),
P., 1526 79. — Ixviii. 110.
Ifeef*, Peeter, the Elder, Dutch P., ca.
i577-ca. 1657.
Neer, Aert van der, Dutch P., 1603-77.
Nieolau, Meetre (o Francie), 8., 16th
cent.
Niculoeo, Franc, It. faience-painter,
16th cent. — xlix.
Nola, Giov. Merliano da. It. 8., 1488-
1558. — Iv.
Nu%ez, Juan, P., 15th cent.
Ordofiez, BartolonU, 8., d. 1520. — li.
OiTente, Pedro. 8., ca. 1570-1644. —
Ixxi.
Ortiz, Pablo, 8., end of 15th cent. —
xlviii.
Oeorio, Meneeez, P., d. after 1700. —
Ixxvii.
Ottade, Adriaen van, Dutch P., 1620-85.
Pacheeo, Franc., P., 1571-1654. — Ixvii.
Ixxviii.
Palma Giovane, Giaeotno, It. P., 1644-
ea. 1628.
Palomino, Ant., P., 1658-1726. —
Ixxxiii.
Pareja, Juan, P., 1606-70. — Ixxxi.
PuUnir, Joachim, Plena. P., d. ca.l524.
Penni, Giov. Franc. (ilFattore), It. P.,
1488-1528.
Pereda, Ant., P., 1599-1669. — Ixxxii.
Pereira, Manuel, 8., d. 1667. — Ixi.
Perez, Pedro, A., d. 1285. — 130.
Pillemont, Jean, French P., 1728-1808.
Pinturicchio (Bernardino Betti), It. P.,
1455-1613. — Ixx.
Polo, Diego, P., 1620-56. — Ixxxii.
Portuenee, see Taborda.
PovMsin, me., French P., 1594-1665.
Pradat, Juan Garcia de. A., 16th cent.
Pradilla., Franc, P., horn 1847. —
Ixxxiv.
Pfado, Bias del, P., ca. 1640-ca. 1600.
— Ixvii.
Raphael Sanzio da Urbino, It. P. and
A., 1483-1520.
Rembrandt Harmensz van Rit'n, Dutch
P., 1607-69.
Resende, Garcia da, A., d. 1520.
Ria»o, Diego de, 8., d. 1533. — liii.
RibaUa, Franc, P., 1551(?) - 1623. —
Ixx.. 247.
— , Juan de, son of the preceding, P.,
1597-1628. — Ixxi.
Ribera, Andris de, A., 16th cent. —
liii.
— . Jusepe (lo Spagnoletto), P., 1583-
1656. — Ixxi.
Rigaud, Myacinthe, French P., 1659-
1743.
Rincon, Antonio del. P., 1446-1500. —
Ixiv.
Rizi, Franc, P., 1608-86. — Ixxxii.
— , Fray Juan, P., 1595-1676. —Ixxxii.
Rodriguez, Alonso, P., 16th cent. — 466.
Roelas, Juan de las. P., ca. 156(>-1625.
— Ixix. 895. 421.
Roldan, Luisa, S., 1656-1704. — Ixi.
— , Pedro, 8., 1624-1700. — lix.
Romano, Giulio (G. Pippih It. P. and
A., 1492-1546.
RombouU, Theodor van, Netherl. P.,
1597-16b7.
Ron, Basque S. — Ixii.
RuSo, JoOo de (Jean de Rouen), French
A., Idth cent.
Rubens, Peter Paul, Flem. P., 1577-
1640.
Ruviales, P., 16th cent. — Ixvi.
ScMvedra y Castillo, Ant., P., 16th
cent. — Ixxiii.
Saechetti, Giov. Battista, It. A., d.l766.
Sagrero, Quillermo, S., end of 16tb
cent. — xlviii.
Sanchez, Martin, 8., end of 16th cent.
592
LIST OF ARTISTS.
Sanehu^ NMfro, S., iOth cent. — zUx.
a<m UoeadiOy Pablo cfe, P., 16th cent.
— Ixx.
8Qn Pedro, Pedro Gontalo cfe, 8., end
of 18tfa cent. -<- Iviii.
Sansavino. Andrea da (A. CotUueci),
, It. 8., 1100-1509.
Santo* Crus^ P., d. ca. 1600. — Ixvi.
Sarto^ Andrea del. It. P., 1486-1531.
iSetef, Cornelis, Dutch P., 1597-1660.
Sebaetiano da Piombo, It. P., 1485-
1547.
Seghert, Daniel, Dutch P., 1590 1661.
Sequeira, Ani. de, Port. P., 1768-1887.
— 509.
fievilla, Juan de. P., 1627-96. — IxxW.
Siloe, Diego de^ A. and 8., d. 1663. -^
1. Hi.
— , GU de. SOB of the preceding, 8.,
end of l5th cent. — xlvii. xlix.
Simffes.Ant., Port. 8.,16kh cent.— 630.
Stamina, Qerardo, It. P., bom 1364.
— Ixiii.
Siurmio, Hernando de, P., ca. 1666.
Suarez, Ant., S., 1648 64. — 441.
Taborda Yieira (Portuenee), Port. P.,
d. 1804.
Taea^ Ant., Port. P., 16th cent.
Taeca, Pietro, It. S., d, ca. 1660. — Iv.
Talavera, Juan de, S., 16th cent. —
Ivii.
Tarragona, Pere (Pedro) Johan de, S.,
16th cent. — xlviii.
Teniere, David, the Younger, Flem. P.,
1610-90.
Terei, Filippo, It. A., d. ca. 1598.
Theotocdptili , Domenico (el Oreco),
Greek P., 1548-1626. — Ixviii.
— , Jorge Manuel, son of the preced-
ing, A., d. 1631. — 131.
Tibaldi, Pellegrino, It. P. and A.,
1527(?)-92. — Ixvii.
Tiepolo, CHovanni Battieta, It, P., 1696-
1770. — Ixxxiii.
Tintoretto, il (Jac. Robtiati), It. P.,
1519-94. — Ixviii.
Titiano Yecelli da Cadore, It. P., 1477-
1578. — Ixviii.
Tobar, Aloneo Miguel de. P., 1678-
1768. — Ixxvii.
Toledo, Juan Bautieta de, A., d. 1663.
— 109.
Tom4, Narcieo, 8., 18th cent. — Ix.
Torralva, Oonsalvo de, Port. A., 16th
cent.
Torrigiani, Pietro, It. S., ca. 1470 1522.
— Iv. 416.
Trezzo, Oiacomo, It. 8., d. 1589.
Tristan, Luii, P.. ca. 1586-1640. —
Ixxviii.
Tudelilla, 8., d. 1566. — Ivii.
Ulrecht, Luis and Oaaquin of, Dutch
glass-painters, 15th cent. — 132.
Yakklvira, Pedro de, A. and 8., d.
1665. — liii.
Yaldit Leal, Juan de. P., 1630^. -
Ixxiii.
Yallejo, Juan de, A., 16th cent.
YanviUlli, Lod., It. P. »nd A., 1700-
1773.
Yargae, Luie de. P., 1602-68. — Ixvii.
Vatquu, Martkn, Port. A., d. befbre
1448. — 656.
Yazquee, Aloneo, P., d. 1649. — Ixvu.
Yelaeeo, Luie de, Port. P., i6th cent.
— Ixvii.
Yelazqtiee, Diego Y. de Silva, P.,
1599-1660. — Ixxviii-Ixxxi. 395.
— , Juan, 8., 16th cent.
— , Zacaria Gonzalet, P., 18th cent. —
Ixxxiii.
Yei^goechea, see Bengoechea.
Yeray, EUenne, French S., 16th cent.
— Ivii.
Yergara, Arnao de, glass - painter.
16th cent.
— , mc. de, 8., d. 1574. — Iv.
— , Ific. and Juan de, sons of the
preceding, 8. and glass- painters,
16th cent.
Yermeyen, Jehan Cornelie, Flem. en-
graver, 1600-1659.
Yernet, CUntde-Joeeph, French P., 1714-
98.
Yeroneee, Paolo (P. Caliari), It. P.,
1528-88. — Ixviii.
Yigami, see Borgona.
Yiladomat, Antonio, P., 1878-1755.
YillalpandOy Franc, de, 8., d. 1561.—
liii.
Yillegas, Joei. modem P.
Yilloldo, P., 16th cent. — Ixvii.
Yolterra, Daniele da (D. Ricciarelli),
It. P., 1509-67.
Yos, Marten de, Flem. P., 1531-1603.
WatUau,Antoine, French P., 1684-1721.
Weyden, Roger vcm der, Flem. P.,
1399 (?)- 1464. — Ixiv.
Wouverman, Philips, Dutch P., 1619-68.
Xamete, 8. and A., 16th cent. — liv.
Xavier, Ignacio: Port. P., born 1724.
— 612.
Yofies, ffernan, P., 16th cent. — Ixix.
Zareillo, Frane., S., 1707-48. — Ixi.
ZariHena, Oristdbal, P., d. 1622. — Ixx.
Zuecari, Federigo, It. P., 1660-1609.
— Ixvu.
Zwbardn, Franc., P., 1598-1661. —
Izxli.
INDEX.
Abdalajis, Sierra de 329.
338.
Abdera 294.
Abrantes 610.
Abrera 221.
AcnalcAzar 42li.
Adi^a^ the 19. 45. 40.
Adanero 45.
Adra 294.
Agoncillo ITT.
Agramdn 285.
Agramunt 214.
Agaadti]c« 886.
Agudo, Monte 284. 2B9.
Agneda, tbe 587,
Aguilar 214.
— de Campdo 41.
— de Ebro 181.
— de la Prontera 319.
Aguilas 298. 245.
Aginas, Sierra de las 266.
258. 271.
Agulleni. Monte 272.
Ahnsfn 61.
Aire, Serra do 561.
Aitzgorri, Monte 14.
Aizobal 217.
AJin, Pena de 279.
Alag6n 174.
Alanfs 459.
Alarcos 453.
Alar del Key 41.
Alaarinego 321.
AlSva, Prov. 3. 24.
— , Concha de 15.
Albacete 2T8.
Alba de Tormea 472.
Albiida 274.
— , Puerto de 274.
Albalat de la Bibera 266.
— : Estanque de 247.
Albana 4^.
Albardoa, Scrra d' 555.
Albarregas, the 456. 457.
Albatera-Gatral 283.
Albentosa 251.
Alberche, the 50. 446.
Alb^res, Monts 186.
Albergarla 563.
Alberiqae 268.
Albuera de Cornalvo 457.
Albafera,the24l. 265.266.
Albnferia 549.
Albnizech 252.
Alcacer do Sal 547.
Alcieovas 5)8. •
Alcali de Ghisbert 246.
— de Guadaira 422.
— de Henares 152.
del Rio 392.
— , Atalayafl de 246.
Alcanadre 177.
— , the 180.
Alcaniz 181.
Alcanizo 446.
Alcdntara 450.
— , the 514. 533.
— Mar 540.
Alcantarilla 286. 297.
Alcantarillas 427.
Alcariz, Sierra de244.285
Alcandete 307.
Alcaz^ba,Gerro de la 369.
Alcksar de San Juan 277.
Alceda 44.
Aldra 268.
Alcoa, the 662. 553.
Alcoba, Serra d' 664.
Alcoba9a 65^^.
Alcochete 513.
Alcol^a, Puente de 303.
Alcover 238.
Alcoy 274. 272.
-, the 271. 274.
Alcubierre, Sierra de 173.
Aleubilla 426.
Alcubillaa y O^rgal 299
Alcndfa, Valle de la 453.
Alctldia de Crespfns 270.
Alenneza 165.
Aldea del Cano 452.
— Gallega 513.
Aldeanuera (Logr.) 176.
— de la Vera 446, 447.
Aledo 297.
Alegrfa 15.
Alemquer 518.
Alemtcjo 606. 507. etc.
Aleya 198.
Alfacar, Sierra de 368.
Alfafiir 268. 266.
Alfaques, Puerto de loa
239
Alfarellos 564. 558.
Baedeksb's Spain and Portugal.
Alfaro 176.
Alfarrobeira 513.
Algaba, La 392.
Algaida 426.
Algameca, Monte 291.
Algeciras 373.
Algemesi 26S..
Alg^ 540.
Alginet 268.
Algodonales 431.
— , Sierra de 427.
Algodor 452. 126. 276.
— , the 452.
Algorta 24.
Alguazas 286.
Alhama 330.
— de Aragdn 166.
— de Murcia 297.
— , Sierra de 322. 830.
Alhamilla, Sierra 299.
Alhandra 513.
— , Mouchao d' 513.
Alhaurin el Grande 321.
Alhondiguilla 303.
Alhoa Vedros 546.
Alicante 279.
Aliseda 451.
Aljubarrota 565.
Aljucdn 457. 452.
Almacellas 180.
Almada 540.
Almad^n 453.
Almadenejos 453.
Almagrera, Sierra de
29^
Almagro 301.
Almaj^r 291.
Almansa 278.
— , Pantano de 278.
Almanzora 298.
Almaraa 447.
Almargen 969.
Almazin 18. 156.
Almazora, Canal de 248.
Almeida 573.
Almeirim 512.
Almenara 248.
-, Sierra de 289. 297.
Almendralejo 460.
Almendrieos 298.
Almerfa 299.
Almocegema 546.
38
594
INDEX.
Campo Aanir
Almoddrftr del
468.
— del Rio aOi.
— , Cerro de IM.
Almonacid 403.
Almonte, the U7. 4fiO.
AImorad<-Do]ores S9B3.
Almoraima 872.
Almorchdn 454. 804.
— , Sierra de 804.
Almoar61 611.
Almadaina, 8ierra 374.
Almad^var 179.
Almaradiel 803.
Almasafei 266.
AloraSaO.
Alpalhio 610.
Alp^ra 278.
AlDiuarrafl, Valleys of
Alqaerfa 384. 368.
AluUaa 15. 176.
Altaftdla 28().
Altamira, Monte 500.
— , Sierra de 446.
Alambres 393.
Alverca 618.
Alviella, the 512. 530.
Alvito 548.
Alsa 10.
Alsania 15.
Amandi 491.
Ambota, Pena de 15.
AmbraeU 449.
Ameixal 548.
Amieira 563.
Amorebieta 30.
AmpoUa 239.
Amposta 389.
Ampurdjln, EJ 184. 187.
Ampurias, Cast, de 188.
Amarrio 26.
Ancho 10.
Anclar, Honte 217.
Andalusia 160. 294.
And^a, Sierra de 15.
Andfa, Sierr* de 177.
Andoafn 13.
Andorra 217.
Androsilla 177.
And<ijar 808.
Anduz, Monte 20.
Angeles, Cerro delos 275.
— , Brmita de los 273. 275.
Angles 190.
Angles Ola 214.
Angostura. Gorge of 431.
Anitorgis 181.
Anov^r del Tajo 276.
Anserall 217.
Antequera 328.
Afiuar, Sierra del 306.
Anza(31a 19.
819.
Apeadero 838.
Aracon 169.
— , the 161. 176.
Arahal 887.
Araiz, Vonte 14.
Aralar, Peak of 14.
Aramenha 510.
Aramprana, Cast, de 927.
Aranda de Duero 18.
Aranguren 44.
Lrangui
Lraigu^
.u^a 133. 37».
Arantes, Cerro de los 117.
ArapUes, Los 472.
Araya 15.
Arbd 493.
Arb6f 230.
Arbuciae 190.
Arcade 491.
Areentales 44.
Archena 286.
— , Banos de 286.
Archidona 329.
Areos de la Front era 431.
— de Medinaeeli 155.
— de V^Ue de Vea 686.
Arechevaleta 16.
ArSgos 686.
Arenas, Las 24.
— Oordas 428.
Arentim 594.
Ar^nys de Mar 192.
— de Munt 192.
Areta 24.
Ar^valo 45.
Argel6s-«ur-Mer 186.
ArgamasiUa de Alba 300.
277.
— de Calatrava 453.
Argentona 193.
Arguedas 175.
Ariz-Dos-Caninos 20.
Ariza 155. 18.
ArjonUla 303.
Arlaban, Puerto de 16.
Arlanz6n, the 18. 26.
Armilla, Llanos de 368.
Armuna 51.
Amedillo 177.
Amedo 177.
Arose, Bar of 495.
Arrabida 546.
Arrayolas 547.
Arriaca 163.
Arriate 872.
Arrigoriaga 24.
Arrizafa, Quinta de 318.
A'rronches 510.
Arroyo de la Antigua 427
— de MalparUda 450.
— del Puerco 450.
Arroyuelos, Cerro de 452.
Artesa de Segre 214. 217.
Anuda 973. 3r70.
Ased 182.
Assomar MO.
Astapa 388.
Astigirraga 13.
Astillero 44.
Astorga 479.
Asturias. Pror. 461. 485.
Atalaia 661.
— Quia 64a
Atalaya, the 431.
— , Cortiio de U 4S1.
Atarfe 831.
Ataqnines 45.
Ataua, Ridge of 14.
Ateea 166.
AtmeUa ^.
Ave, Sierra del 368.
Avebo 664.
-, Ria de 664.
Avila 45. 471.
— , Paramera de 46. 49.
~, Puerto de 49.
-, Sierra de 46. 46.
AtIWs 491. 489.
Axarquia 821. 323.
Aya, Pena de 10.
Azagra 177.
Azaila 181.
Azamfouia 513.
Asana 445.
Azaraque 285.
Azar^ja 547.
Azc6itia 13.
Azelar, Sierra di 15.
Azoia 545. 660.
Azpeitia 13.
Azuqueca 158.
Baca, the 653. 565.
Bad^oz 467.
BadaJona 193.
Baena 807.
Baetica 294.
Baeza 302.
Baides 154.
Ballon 302.
Balaguer 217.
', Castillo de 239.
Balanzona 303.
Balenyi 191.
Balistres, Col des 187.
Ballena, La 426.
Balsicas 289.
Bambola 156.
Baneras 279. 274.
Banyuls-sur-Ker IS 7.
Bari, Portal de 230.
Barbautes 493.
Barbastro 180.
Barbate, Bay of 386.
Barca d'Alva 587.
Barcellos 584.
INDEX.
595
Bareelon* ia4.
Aduana 206.
Arcbivo. de U Corona
de Aragon 2(X5.
— Municipal 207.
Arco de Triunfo 210.
Art Exhibition 196.
Ataraxanaa Barrack
200.
Audiencia 207.
Ball Games,Ba8quel96.
Bankers 196.
Barceloneta 210.
Baths 196.
Bull Ring 195. 210.
Calle de los Etcndiilerfl
200.
— deFenia©doVIl200.
— de Paradia 206.
CanoQJa 206.
Casa Consistorial 207.
— Dalmases 209.
— de la Dipntacion
206. 2or.
— delo8ZapateTos205.
Cathedral m
Cementerios 210. 211.
Cervantes' House 199.
Consulates 196.
Deposito CDmercial206.
Diputaci6n Provincial
206.
English Church 196.
Ensanche 197.
Exchange 20S.
George, Chapel of St.
206. 207. .
Gr^cia 211.
Harbour 199.
Loiga 206.
Mercado del Borne 209,
— de San Joad 201.
. Hontjuich 210.
Museo de Bellas Artea
210.
— Estrueh 202.
— de la. Historia 209.
— Martorell 200.
. — Provincial 206.
— de Beproducciones
209.
Nuestra Senora de
Belen 201.
de los Reyes 201.
Pabellon de la Beiaa
Regente 209.
Palacio de Agricultura
210.
— de Bellas Artea '2
— de Cienciaa 210.
— Epiacopal 206.
— de Juaticia 210.
— Real 209.
Babcblona :
Pant^on de Catalanea
lUustrea 209.
Park 209.
Paseo de la Aduana
206.
— del Cementerio 210.
— de Col6n.l99.
— de Gricia 202.
— de San Carlos 210.
Physicians 196.
Platerfa 208.
Plaza de CataluSa 201.
— de la Conatitucion
206.
— de Palacio 203.
— de la Paz 199.
— Real 200. .
— del Rey 206.
— de Toroa 195. 210.
Popular Festivals 196.
Post Oface 195.
Provincial Museum
206.
Pueblo Nuevo 210. 193.
Puerto 199.
RaiTway Stationa 194.
201.
Rambla 200. 197.
San Agttstin 200.
-« GervasiodeCasollas
211. .
— Jorge 207.
— Miguel del Puerto
210.
— Pablo del Campo
201.
— Pedro delasPuellas
210.
SantaAgueda, Cap. 206.
— Ana 202.
— Cruz 203.
— Eulalia 203.
-^ MarU del Mar 208.
del Pino 201
Santos Jnsto y Pastor
207.
Sarria 211. 188.
Statue of Aribau 209.
— of Clav^ 208.
— of Columbus 199.
— of Comillas 199.
— of Guell 202.
— of Marquet 199.
— of Prim 209.
Steamers 195.
Suburbs 199.
Theatres 195. 200.
University 202.
Zoological Garden 209.
Barcelona, OampiSa de
226.
Barceloneta 2iQ.
Barcena 42.
Barco de Valdeorras 481.
Biirdenas, the 174.
Bargas 445.
Barqulnha 611.
Barra de MinhO 491.
Barricas 251.
Barreiro 546.
Barrioa 397.
— , Los 378.
Barros, Tierra de los 460.
Basque Provinces 2.
Batalha 555. 566.
Batuecas, the 450.
Bauma, La 220.
Bay as, the 26.
Bayona 494.
Baza 298.
— , Sierra de 298.
Bazagona, La 448.
Beasafn 14.
Becerril 478.
Begona, Church of 28.
Beira (Mar), Prov. 564.
Beja 548.
Bejar 472. .
— , Banos de 472.
— , Sierra de 473.
Belalcdzar 454.
Belem 535. 540.
Bellas 541.
Bell-Lloefa 215.
Bellpuig 214..
Bellreguart 272.
Bellus 274.
Bellver 217.
Belmez 808.
Belmonte 278,
Bembibre 481.
Bemfica 641.
Bemposta 510.
Benacaz6n 423.
Benalmadena 32L
Benaojan 372.
Benavites 248.
Beniajin 284. 289.
Beniarre's 273.
Benicadell, Puerto de274.
— , Sierra de 272.
Benicarld 246.
Benicasim 247.
Beniel 284.
Benifairo 248.
Benifay6 de Espioca 268.
266.
Beniganim 274.
Beranga 44.
Berlen^as, Islaa 651.
Bermeja, Sierra 372.
Bermeo 20.
Berroc^l 52.
Bes6s, the 183. 192. 198.
197.
38 •
596
INDBX.
BaUdsoi 483.
Beteln U.
B^tera 367.
Betulo Ids.
BidMooa, the 2. 9.
BUbao 21. 46.
— , Bay of 24.
Bilbilif 156.
BUibio, Monte 17. 178.
BiniSfar 180.
Bisbal^ La 188.
Biscay, see Vieeaya.
Blanca 286.
BUaea IttS.
Boada &S7.
BobadiUa 820. 828. 369.
386.
Bocairente 279.
Boca del Asno 829.
Bocal del Bey 173. 175.
Bocca do Inferno 541.
BolaSos de GelatraTaSOl.
Bombarral 551.
Bonanza 426.
B<So 42.
Bordeta 226.
BordUs 188.
Borel, Montaia de 272.
Boriache 198.
Borja 174.
Bori^ 238.
-^ del Campo 182.
Bornos 431.
Borunda 15.
Bosch de Tosca 188.
Bosque^ £1 431.
Bourg-M adame 217.
Bouro 562.
Bdveda 472. 481.
Braso de Prata 513.
Braga 584.
Branaelas 480.
Breda 190.
Brenes 805.
Brincola 14.
Brionet 178.
Briviesca 17.
^r^ula, the 17.
Babana Valley 385.
Bubierca 156.
Babion 369.
Bada, island 239.
Baen Qticeso, chapel 484.
Bney. Valle del &i,
BugedOt convent 17.
Bujalance 303.
Ballones, Sierra 380.
Buradon, the 17. 178.
Burgo, £1 181.
BorgOB 25.
Arco de Feman Gonza-
lea 32.
— de Santa Maria 27.
BoBOOl :
Areo de U Vic^Ja 86.
Andieaela 83.
Barrio de Vega 38.
Boll Ring 25. 33.
Capitanfa General 33.
Cartnja de Miraflores
34.86.
Casa (Tonsistorial 27.
. — de Angnlo 33.
— del Old 82.
— del Corddn S3.
<- de Miranda 83.
Castillo 82.
Cathedral 27. .
Cementerlo 32.
Charles m., Statae
27,
Cid, Solar del 32.
Culegio de San Nicolas
27.
Cabos, the 82.
Diez^a Monument 32.
Dipatacidn Provincial
Espolon 27.
Gad^a 32.
Hospital del Bey 34.
— , MiliUry 27.
Huelgas, Las 84.
Instituto Provincial 27.
Museum 27.
Palacio . Arsobispal 27.
— de Jnsticia TT.
Paseo de los Cabos 32.
— del Bspolon Kuevo
33.
Vieio 2r.
— de la Tsla 32.
^ de la Quinta S3. 84.
— de los Vadillos 33.
Plasa Mayor 27.
Puente de Malatos82.84.
— de San Pablo 38.
— de SanU Maria 27.
San Est^ban 32.
— GU33.
— KieoUa 31.
. Santa Agueda 82.
Seminario de S. Jer6-
. nimo 32.
Theatre 25. 27. 33.
Bnrjasot 267.
Bnrriana 248.
Burunza, the 13.
Busdongq 484.
Bussaco 572.
— Serra de 564. 572.
Oabal, Monte 272.
Caball Bemat m 225.
Caballo, Cerro 369J
Cabanal.262. 266.
Cabanas U.
— de la Sagra 445.
Oabanillas 175.
Cabeaa del Asno 286.
— del Buey 464,
— de Hierro 123.
— de la Jara 243, 244.
— de Montachique 589.
— de Vaca 303.
— , Sierra de la 285.
Cabesas de San i aan. Las
428.
Cabezdn 18.
Gabo de Gata, Sierra del
299.
— da Boca 546.
ofjCabra 307.
'. the 307. 9ia
-, La 192.
— , Sierra de 307.
Cabras, Sierra de lae
286.
Cabrera 198.
Cabrils 193.
Caeem 542. 549.
GAceres 461. 446.
Cachopo, Great St Little
641.
Cachuca 586.
Cacilhas 640.
Gadima 305.
Cadiz 434.
— , Bay of 426.
Caide 586.
Gajar 368.
Oalabazanos 89.
Calaf 214.
— , Sierra de 214.
Galafell 227.
Calahorra 176.
Galal, Cerro 368.
Calamonte 480.
Galanda, Desierto de 181.
Galar del Mundo 244.
286.
Calasparra 286.
Calatayud 156.
Galatorao 157.
Calatrava, Campo de 801.
463.
Caldas de Besaya, Las
42.
— d'Estrach 193,
-— da Felgueira 573.
— do Gerez 585.
— de Malavella iga
— de Montbuy 192.
— da Bainha 651. 613.
Caldelas 493.
Galderao, Serra 648.
Galderina, La 301. 468.
Caldetas 193.
Calella 192.
INDEX.
597
Calera 446.
-Calesina, L& 221.
Calete380..
Callosa- de Segura 284.
— , Sierra de 283.
Calmdr, the 180.
Calnegre 290.
Calvario, Sierra del 431.
Calzada 473.
— de Calatrava, La 301.
— de Oropesa, La 446.
Gamallera 188.
Camas 423.
Cambre 482. .
Cambrils 238.
Caminna 634.
Campamento 380.
Campanario 454.
Campanillas 321.
Campillo de Arenas 306.
^ de SaWatierra 464.
Campillos 369.
Campo de Cript^na 277.
— de Gibraltar 372.
— Grande 539.
— Maior 509. .
— Peqneno 539.
^ Real 819. 307.
— de Setiaea 544.
Gampolide 514.
Campomanes 485.
Camprodon 191.
Canada, La 60. 453.
Canabal .491.
Canal Imperial 173. 158.
174.
Caiiamero 448.
Canaveral 460.
-, Sierra de 460.
Candiel 251.
Candor, Panta de 426,
Ganet de Mar 192.
Canete la Real 369.
Canfranc 180.
Cangas de Onis 489.
Cangosto 41.
Canigon, the 184.
Caniles 298.
Cano, Sierra del 297. 298.
Cannas de Senhorim 573.
Canoeira 555.
Cantibrio, Sierra de 177.
Cantabrian Mts. 2. 484.
Cantalapiedra 464.
Cdntales, Punta de los
322.
Capara 449. .
Caparica 640.
Capileira 369.
Gapsanes 182.
Garacollera 453.
Oaracuel 453.
Caraso, Mont, de 472.
Garbjyo, Sierra de 461.
Garbonera,. 8ierra^380.
Careagente 268.
Carcayellos 541..
Cardedeu 191.
Cardona 218.
Gardoner, the 212. 214.
Garinena 178.
Carlitte, the 184.
Garmona 432. 804.
Garmonita 452.
Garnero, Panta 376. 880.
Garnota 513.
Garo, Monte 239.. 245.
Carolina 464.
— , La 302.
Garpio.303. 464. 473.
Carranza 44.
Carrascal 447.
Carrascale^o 462.
Carrasede 661.
Garratraca 820.
Garregado 513.
Garregal do Sal 573.
Carregneiro 548.
Carretero, Puerto 306.
Carril 495.
Carridn,. the 18. 89.
— de l08 G^spedes 423.
— de los Gondes 40.
GarroSQueta, Sierra de
274.
Cartagena 290.
— , Campo de 289.
— , Sierra de 290.
Ci&rtama 320.
Cartaxo 513.
Carteja 376. 373.
Carvajales, Penon de los
307.
Garvoeiro, Gape 651.
Gasa Blanca 173.
— Branca 647. 548.
— del Labraddr 125.
— Llimona, Montana de
212.
— Massana 229.
— Rabonela 820.
Casal 496.
— de Carreiros 513
Gasar, El 276.
— de G^ceres 450.
Casariche 820.
Gasas y Reina 459.
Casatejada 448.
Cascaes 641.
Gasetas 168. 174.
Caspe 181.
Castanheira 613. .
Gastejar 171. 174.
Castejon 175.
Gastellar 214. 372.
— , Sierra de 459.
Castelldefels -2!^.
Castellfallit de la Roca
188.
Castellnon de-Basella
217.
Gastello Branco 611.
de Pena 544.
de Vide 451. 510.
— dos Mouros 544.
Gastelldn de la Plana 247.
— , Canal de 247.
Castil de Peones 17.
Castile 5. •
— , Canal of 18. 36. 39. 41.
k.
Gastilleja de la Cuesta
423.
Gastillejo 276.
Castillo 16. 473.
— , Monte 279.
— de Dona Blanca 432.
Gastillon 473.
Castro 21.
— Nuno 19.
Castuera 464.
Catalonia, or
Gataluna 183. ■
Catarroja 268. 266.
Gatoira 495.
Gatral 283.
Cattlar 227.
Ganca 61.
Gaudete 279.
Gaulina, Llanos • de 428.
431.
Caxarfas 563.
Caxias 640.
Cazalla de la Sierra 459.
Cazerel 548.
GeboUera, Cerro de la
154.
— , Sierra 177.
Gebreros 60.
Cegama 14^
Gelorico 573.
Celri 18S.
Gemas de Ourem 510.
Genes 3G8.
Cenicero 178.
Centellas 191.
Cerate, Banos de 18.
Cerbfere 187.
Cereal 613.
Gercedilla 62.
CerdaSa 217.
Gerdeira573.
Cerro de Oro 284.
Gervatos 42.
Cervcra 214.
— , Gabo 283.
Cesnres 496.
Getina 156.
Chamartln 108.
&98
INDBX.
CbaBf a MO.
Ohio de M A$M 063. 063.
Charca de la Albuera 467.
Cbaval, Venta del 306.
Chavaa 585.
Cheleiros 546.
Chella^, ttie 514. 519.
Chiclaaa 436.
Chilches 348.
OhiU6u 464.
Chinchgia 278.
Chipiona 425.
Chiprana 181.
Ohorro 820.
Chuchillos de Siris 376.
Chorriaaa 321.
Giano-SantarAna 486.
Cid, Sierra del 279.
Clego, El 178.
GiemiK)zae]o8 276,
0^00, Islas de 494.
Cieaa 286. .
Cinco Villas 174.
Ciiiera 484.
Gintra 642.
— , Serra de 642.
Giorda 16.
Gisneros 473.
Gitania 685.
Giudad Real 453.
— Eodrigo 472.
Glariana, the 274.
Clot 192.
Gda587.
Coca 61.
Gochinos, L.aa 436. 386.
Goimbra 666.
Coin 321.
Collado Mediano 62.
Gollarea 540.
GoUbat6 222.
GoUioare 186.
Gullsuspina 191.
Golmenar 32d.
— , Monies de 828.
Colorado, Gerrq 823. 327.
Golttmbare8,Sierra de284.
Complutum 152.
Goncentaina 274. 272.
Concha, La 12.
Gondeixa 563.
Gonif^rence, JUe de 9.
Gongost, the 191.
Gonil 388. .
Gonjo 496. .
Gonquista 448.
Constaxusis 511.
Constant! na 304.
Gorbones,the804. 887.422.
Gorcos-Aguilarejo 18.
Gdrdoba, Sie/ra de 308.
308
la Vieja 801. 818.
04vtevft 807.
Ale<xar 817.
Barrio del Alciaar
317.
Baths, Kooriah 309.
Ball Ring 308. 809.
Calahorra 817.
Gampo de la Merced
318.
— de la Verdad 317.
Camposanto de lot Mir-
tires 817.
Capilla de los Mirtires
817.
— de San Bartolomtf
818.
Carmen, SI 817.
Gasa de ATiintamiento
318.
— de Expositos 816.
Cathedral 809.
Gementerfo 817.
Golegiata de San Hi-
pdlito 809.
Convento BrmitaSo
818.
— San Jerooimo 818,
Gorredera 818.
Ouna, La 818.
Ermitas, Las 818.
Esenela de Bellas Artes
318.
Foundling Hospital
316.
Hospioio 318.
Hospital del Gardenal
318.
Mercado 818.
Mosqne 809.
Museum 818.
Palacio Episcopal 316.
Paseo del Gran Gapitan
309
— de* Hihera 317.
— de la Victoria 309.
Plaza de Toros 808.
309. .
Private Houses 318.
Puerta de Almoddyar
309. 317.
— del Pnente 817.
— del Eincon 318.
— de SeviUa 317.
San Agustin 318.
— Jacinto 316.
— Lorenzo 818.
— Miguel 318.
— ITicoliSs de la Villa
309.
— Pedro 317.
Santa Marina 318.
Santuario de N. S. de
Fuensanta 317.
CdKDOTA :
Seminarlo de San Pe-
' lagio 316.
Theatre 306. 309.
Torre de Malmnerta
318
Triunfo 317.
Valparaiso, Ennitasde
Goria 425.
GonieiUa 186.
Cornell^ de Uohreeat22S.
Gorrales 436.
, Los 42.
Goronil 387.
Gorrederas 302.
Gorreta, PeSa de la 279.
Gortadura 434.
Cortes (Nav.) 174.
^ de la Frontera 372.
Corti^,GonTento da 546.
Corunna 482.
Prorince 461.
Costa Boia 188.
Cotillas 286.
Goto 432. 433.
Covadonga 489.
CovarrHbias^Sierrade 18.
Govellinhas 586.
Govilba 511.
Cox 283.
Crato 610.
Greu Alto 212.
Greus, Gape 187.
Grevillente 283. 279.
-, Sierra de 283.
CruB da Ldgoa 566.
— Quebrada 640.
Cuacos 447.
Caandra, La 46.
Ciiartell 248.
Cuba 548.
Cubellas 227.
Cuenca 276.
Cuervo, El 428.
Cuesta de laMatansa 329.
Cueva, . Santuario de la
226.
— del Gato 372.
-^ Santo, Sierra de la
251.
Culera 187.
Gullera 268. 266.
— , Sierra de 268. 986.
Gunheira 451.
Cuntis, Caldas de 495.
Curtis 482.
Custoias 583.
Difundo 540.
Daimiel 301.
.Daroca 157.
>Darro, t&e 833. 336. 352.
INDEX.
599
I>elica 26.
Dexnanda, Sierra de la
178.
D^nia 272.
Descarga, Paerto de 19.
Deslerto 24.
Despenaperros, Puerto de
Deya"20.
Diezma 900.
Dois Portos 560.
Dolores 288.
Don Alvaro 466.
— Bob! to 465.
— Carlos, Llanos de 431.
Dona Hencia SOT.
Doninos 472.
Dornajo, the 368. 348.
Dos Caminos 20. 24.
— Herman as 427.
Douro, thelS. 19. 155. 566.
575. 586.
— , Bar of the 583.
Dnenas 18.
Duero, see Douro.
Durango 20.
— , the 20.
Ebo, Sierra de 272.
Ebro, the 17. 25. 41. 183.
2S9. 245. etc.
— , Conchas del 178.
Echarri 176.
Ecija 319.
Egara 212.
Egon 177.
Eibar 20.
Eizaga, Monte de 14.
Ejea 174.-
Elche 282. 279.
— , Albufera de 283.
Elda 279.
-, Sallnetas de 279.
Eliberri 331.
Elne 186.
Elvas 509. 648.
Elvira, Sierra 300. 306.
831.
— , Bancs de Sierra 331.
Empalme (Bar.) 190.
— (Almendricos) 298.
— (Cadiz) 305.
— de las Minas 462.
— de Moi;(5n 387. 319.
— de Trocadero 483.
Emperador 458.
Etnporice 188.
Enamorados, Pena de los
829.
Encartaciones, Las 3.
Encina, I^a 271. 279.
Endaya 9.
Enguera, Sierra de 270.
Enix, Sierra de 299.
Enmedio, Sierra de 298.
Enol, Lago de 489.
Enrique, Fort 9.
Entroncamento 511
Enxara dos Cavalleiros
640.
Epila 157.
Epora 303.
Eresma, the 51. 117.
Ericeira 560.
Ermezinde 683.
Ermida 586.
Ermiia 20.
— , the 20.
Erustes 445.
Escabia, Pena 261.
Bscacena 423.
Escatron 181.
Esclavitud 496.
Escombrera, island 291.
Escorial 109. 60.
Esmoriz 665.
Espadin, Sierra de 247.
248. 261.
Bsparraguera 221.
EspartinaSfMeseta de 275.
Espe^a 473.
Espeluy 302. 305.
Esperanza, Fuente de la
Espicbel, Cabo de 540.
Espiel 303.
Espinar 52.
Espinas, Sierra de 247.
Espinho 665.
Espinosa 154.
— de Villagonzalo 41,
Espluga del Francoll238.
Esplugas 2^36.
Espuna, Sierra de 297
Estarreja 565.
Estella 177. 178.
Estepa 886.
Est^par 18.
Estepona, Sierra de 872.
370.
Estfvarez, Ermita de 16.
Estivella 251.
Estoril 541.
EstreUa 368.
—,Serra da 505. 511.673
Estremadura 443. 510.
Estremoz 647«
Euba 20.
Engaria 545.
Europa, Penas de 2.
— , Picos de 489.
— Point 378.
Evora 547.
Fabara 181. .
F^brica del Pedroso 469^
Facinho da Boca. 546.
Falset 182.
Fan^al, Puerto del 289.
Fargue, El 300.
Faro 549.
Faurrt 248.
Faydn 181.
Fernan Caballero 463.
— Nunez 319.
Ferradoza 587.
Ferrao 586.
Ferrol 484.
Figar6 191.
Figueira da Foz 553.
564.
Figueirido 494.
Figueirinho 548.
Figueras 187.
Figuier, Cap 9.
Filabres, Sierra 298. 299.
Filgueira 492.
FinesrOlula 298.
Fitero 175.
Flassil 188.
Flix 182.
Floresta 238.
Fluvid, the 183. 187. 188.
Focinho da Boca 545,
Fojo, the 546.
Fontanar 154.
Fontanat, the 184.
Fontellas 175.
Formoselha 564.
Fornells 190.
Fornos d'Algodres 573.
Foz, Castello da 582.
Fraguas, Las 42.
Francia, Pena de 450.
472.
Francolf, the 228. 237.
Franquesas, Las 191.
Fregeneda 587.
Freineda 573.
Freixo 587.
Pres de Val 36.
Frieira 492.
Fuenlabrada 445,
Fuenmayor 178.
Fuensanta, Banos de
301. .
— , Montana de 239.
Fuente del Arco 459.
— Grande 868.
— la Higuera 270.
— de Piedra 320.
— de la Beina 328.
— San Estdban 472. 637.
— de la Sarna 431.
Fuenterrabfa 9.
Fuentes de Ebro 181.
— de Onoro 473.
— de Valdepero 40.
600
INDEX.
Fundio 611.
Fustliana 176.
OabirrM, Montet 190.
Gaia666.
Oainehurisqueta 10.
GaUn 290.
Galea, Panta de 24.
Galieia 101. 481.
Gillego, the 161. 179.
Gallinas-L» Zarxa 61.
Qallur 174.
Gama 44.
Gandia 371.
—f Orao de 971.
Qarbet 187.
Garraf, Costal de 227.
Garray 166.
Garriga, La 191.
Garrovaia 457.
GarroyUlM 460.
Garvaio 648.
Gata, Sierra d« 443. 419.
Gaucin 372.
Gavi 227.
Gaya, the 212. 227. 290.
Gaztile«, Sierra 373.
Gegaro 646.
Gelida 229.
Gelsa 181. .
Gelves 425.
Genii, the 329. 334. 365.
etc.
Genov^s 274.
Gerez, Serra do 586.
Gerona 188.
Getafe 276. 462.
Gibraltar 873.
— , Strait of 876.
Gigonza 428.
Gijon 489.
Gillet 251.
Gineta, La 278.
Gobantes 320.
GoUega 512.
Golondrinas, Boeas de las
226. 220.
Gomecello 464.
Gdmez-Narro 46.
Gorm&a 8.
Gorvea, Pena 2. 26..
GouvSa 573.
GrafA, Forte da 609.
Gracia 211.
Grajal .de Campos 473.
Gralla. Sierra de 275.
Chranada 831.
. Alameda 848.
— de Darro 843.
Albaiciu 844. 883.
Albaida 848.
Albercdn de las Damas
368.
Okamida :
. Alberc6n del Kegro 36&
Alcaieer£a 842.
AlcAsar de Genii 348.
Alhambka 849.
Abencerragee, Hall
of the 360.
Adarves, Jardin de
108 366.
Alameda 862.
Alcaziba 354.
Alhambra AlU 349.
863.
— Arehivea 363.
— Palace 366.
— Park 362.
— Vase 362.
Ambassadors, Hall of
the 858.
Aposentot de Car-
los V. 368.
Baths 863. 366.
Campo de loa Har-
tiTes 366.
CapiUa 362.
Carmen de Arratia
865.
Casa Real 866.
Cistern 354.
Contreras' Honse363.
Cuarto Dorado 362.
-> de Machuca 366.
363.
Cuesta de las Graces
852.
— Empedrada 352.
Hotels 332. 352.
Lindaraja 362.
Lions, Court of the
369.
Hexuar 562.
Heaquita Heal 865.
Mirador de Daraxa
862
Moorish Chapel 863.
366.
Mosque 366.
Myrtles, Court of the
857.
Palace, Charles V.'s
361.
— , Moorish 355.
Patio de la Aibehira
358.
— de la Alberca 857.
-- de los Ar/ayanes
357. .
— de Daraxa 363.
— de los Leones 859.
— del Mexuar 862.
— de la Mezquita
362
— delaBi(ja864. '
GSAMADA :
Alhambxa:
Peinador de la Reina
364.
Pilar deCarloBY. 353.
Plata de Jkos Aljibes
864.
— de la Artilleria
864.
— del Pablar 364.
Puer ta de la Aleazaba
354.
— de las Armas 35k
— del Carril 863.
— de laa Qranadas
852.
— de Hierro 366.
.— Judiciaria 363.
-T* de los Siete Sue-
lot 366.
— del Sol 362.
— del Vino 863.
Riuda 860.
Salade losAjimeces
362.
— dela 3arca 353.
— de las Dos Herma-
nasSei.
— de los Embai ado-
res 368.
— de las Frutas 3S3.
— delaJusticiaStiO.
— de loa Kooarabes
369.
— de las Kin&a 363.
— de los Reyes 360.
— de los Socretoe
864.
— del Tribunal 360.
San Francisco, Con-
vento de 366.
Santa Maria, Oiurch
of 365.
Sepulchral Chapel,
Royal 360.
Sisters, Room of the
Two 361.
Torre del Agua 366.
— del Candil 366.
— de la Cautiva 366.
— de Comarea 358.
— de las Damas 365.
— del Homeni^e 354.
— de las Infantas
366.
— de Peinador 364.
— de los Picoa 366.
— Quebrada 854.
— de la Vela 364.
Torres Barm^as 352.
Viadueto 368.
Zaguan 862.
INDEX.
601
Gramada : n
Alhdndiga 342.
Al)lbe de Lluyia 86
Antequerela 334.
Assabica, Monte AValle
de la 849.
Audiencia 342.
Bafiuelo 342.
Barranco de Fuente
Pena 343.
Bibanejcde 349.
Bibarrambla 337.
Bibataubin, Castillo de
847. 348.
Bomba Mill 349.
Botanical Garden 347.
, Bull Ring 382. 345.
Calderon, Villa 366.
Calle de Qomdres 851
— de Mendez Nunez
342.
Gamine de los NeTeros
849.
— del Saero Monte 348.
Campillo 347.
Campo de los M^ire»
349. 366.
— del Triunfo 345.
Capilla Real 34a
Gapitanfa General 847.
Carrera de Darro 842.
— de Genii 386. 347.
Gartuja 845.
Casa de Ayuntamiento
336.
— de Castril 343.
— de las Gallinas 8
— del Cabildo Antigua
341.
— del Carbdn 342.
— del Ghapiz 848.
— del Gallo 344.
— de los Tiros 847.
Cathedral 337.
Cave Dwellings 343.
849.
Cementerio 368.
Cerca del Obispo 344.
Cerro del Sol 349. 367.
Cbancilleria 342.
Churra 334.
City Wall, Moor. 844.
Colegio de laCompania
de Jesiis 346,
— de las Escuelas Pias
348.
Convento deCarmelitas
Decalzadas 347.
— de San Alfonso Ma-
ria de Liguori 843.
Basilio 348.
Francisco 865.
Jerdnimo 346.
Gbanada:
Convento de Santa Cruz
347.
Isabel la Real 344.
Cruz Blanca 845.
— de Mondejar 352.
Cuarto Beal de Santo
Domingo 817.
Cuesta del Cbapiz 843.
— del Eey CMco 348.
349.
D&r al-Wid 36S.
Engl. Church Service
m.
Excursions 368.
Fuente del Avellano
348.
— de la Bomba 848.
Generalife 867.
Gitanos, or
Gypsies 343.
Hospital Real de De
mentes 345.
— de San Juan de Dios
346.
— de San Ldzaro 345.
Jesuit Noviciate 316.
Lonja 341.
Mariana Pineda, Mon.
of 345. 847.
Martires, Los, Villa 366.
Mauror 334.
Mercado 337.
Miradores 887.
Monte Claro 344.
Museo Provincial 336,
Nuestra SeSora de las
Angustias 848.
Palacio de los Alizares
368.
— Arzobispal 337.
— de Generalife 367.
Paseo della Bomba 848.
— del Sal<5n 348.
— del Viol6n 848.
Plaza de Bibarrambla
837.
— de Mariana 347.
— Nueva 342.
— de Prim 336.
— de S. Domingo 347.
— de Toros 332. 345.
Plazuela de las Pasie-
gas 337. 340.
Puente del Cadf 342.
— de Genii 34S.
— Verde 349.
Puerta Bibataubin 347.
— de Elvira 345.
— de Hierro 340. 366.
— de los Molinos 349.
— Mondita 345.
— de las Orejas
Gbanada :
Puerta Beal 336. 347.
— del Sol 852.
Reducto de los France-
ses 349.
Roman Street 343.
Rondilla 348.
Sacro Monte 343.
Sagrario 340.
San Ant6n el Viejo,
Ermita 849.
— Cecilio 344.
— Cristdbal 345.
— Juan de los Reyes
343.
— Miguel el AKo 344.
— Nicoljis 3U.
— Pedro y San Pablo
343.
— Salvador 344.
— Sebastian, Ermita
Santa Ana 842.
— Elena, Ermita 863.
— Maria Magdalena
847.
— Maria de la 0 340.
Santas Cuevas 344.
Santo Domingo 347.
SiUa del Moro 368.
Theatres 332. 347.
Torres Bermejas 352.
Ultimo Suspiro del
Moro 336. 349.
University 846.
Zacatin 342.
Granada, La 229.
— , Vega of 331.
Granadilla 449.
Gran^tula de Calatrava
301.
Grande, Sierra 307.
— , the 306.
Granen 180.
Granena 214.
Granenina 214.
Granja, La (chat, near
Madrid) 120.
— (Leon) 480.
— (Portugal) 565.
de Rocamora 283.
Granjuela 304.
Granoll^r8delVall^sl91.
Grivalos 176.
Grazalema 431.
— , Sierra de 370.
Credos, Sierra de 45. 443.
445.
Grijota 473.
Grilos 519.
Grin on 446.
Gris^n 168.
Gros, Cape 230.
602
INDEX.
Qrosa, Sieir* Q70. 379.
OuftdAin, the 387. IXl.
427.
Onadajox 804.
— , the 8U7. 819.
Qaad«I^ar» 168.
GuadaUviar, tbe 241. 254,
Guadalbayoa, Sierra de
304.
Qaadalcanal 459.
Guadal Canal 804.
Guadalenaa, Debesa de
468.
Quadaleto, the 869. 481.
Ouadaleyin, the 870.
Oaadalhorce, the 8iO. S.-S.
Guaualmedina, tbe 8*22.
Ouadalqaivir, tbe 294.
302. 8^2. 469.
— , Marismas del 427. 425.
Guadalupe 448.
— , Ermita A Fuerte de 9.
—, Sierra de 448. 448. 451.
Ouadam6r 151.
Guadarrama 52.
— the 60. 445.
— , Puerto de 62.
— , Sierra de 46. 62. 445.
Guadarrduque, the 872L
Guadiana, the 801. 804.
448. 468.
~, Vega del 457.
Goadiaro, the 872.
Guadiato, the 803.
Guadix 299.
— el Vicjo 299.
Gualba 191.
Guara, Sierra de 161. 178.
179.
Ouarda 573. 564. 611.
Guardia, La 178.
Guardunha. Serra 511.
Guarnizo 42.
Guaro, Sierra de 821.
Guarrazar 151.
Guarroman 302.
Giiejar 8(38.
Guenes 45.
Guernica 20.
Guevara, Casas de 297.
•^, Castle of 15.
Guevora, the 457.
Guiamets 182.
Guib 191.
Guillarey 498.
Gulmaraes 584.
Guip6zcoa, Prov. 2. 9.
Guitiriz 482.
Gujuli, Montana de 26.
Gurb 191.
Babana 198.
Hacbo, Sierra del 320.
Berdeto, the 288.
Baro 178.
Hellfn 286.
Henaree, the 162.
Hendaye 9.
Berae 44.
Hercules, Pillars of 876.
875. 880.
-, Grotto of 886.
Berguijaela 449. 473.
Hermosa, Col de la 279.
Hemani 13.
Uerrera 41.
Herrernela 461.
Bigu^r, Cape 9.
Higueruela 881
Bgate 298.
Uiaojosa del Daque 304.
Hispalis 894.
Hontoria, the 51.
Horadada, La 17.
Homa 166.
Homachuelos 804.
BorU 192.
Bortales, Salinas de 431.
Botpitalet 238.
— de Uobregat 228.
Bostalrich 190.
B'lya, La 179.
Boyo, the 820.
Bos de Anero 44.
Huarte 176.
Buelgas. Las 34.
Buelva 423.
Huercal-Overa 296.
Huertas 242.
-, Cabo de las 280.
flnerva, the 172.
Bnesca 179.
Huete 276.
Huetor 330. 849. 368.
— Santillan 300.
flu^var 423.
Humanes 154. 446.
BusiUos 40.
Ibaisabal 21.
Ibi 274.
Idiazi&bal, Puerto de 14.
[greja Nova 5^8.
Igualada 229. 214.
Igueldo, Monte 13.
Ilerda 215.
Iliberis 331.
Ilissa 304.
IlUn-Cebolla 445.
Ulescas 445.
Illiberis 186.
mora 380.
Infantas, Las 803.
Infiemo, Valle de 368.
iQfiesto 44. 489.
Inoso 25.
Ipenarrieta, Caat. de 14.
Irdo 178.
Irimo, MoBte 14. 19.
Irta, XoBtei de 246.
IrAn 9.
Irurzun 14.
Isla Mayor 290.
- Verde 878.
ItaUca 421.
Iturissa 18.
Izarra 25.
Jabalcnz, the 80^.
— , Banos de 308.
Jabali l^aevo 286.
— Viejo 286.
Jabalquiato 302.
Jaca 179.
Jac6n 868.
Jadraque 164.
Ja^n 806.
— , Prov. 802.
— , Sierra de 306.
Jaiiiquiv^l, the 9.
Jal6n, the 166. 174. 273.
Jamor Valley 540. 541.
Jaraco 271.
, the 271.
Jaraicc^jo 447.
Jaralambre, Sierra de 251.
Jarama, the 101. 123. 152.
275.
Jarana, Sierra de 300.
Jaraadilla 446.
Jdtiva 269. 274.
Javalcdn, the 298.
Jivea 278.
Jer€sa 271.
Jerez de la Frontera 428.
426.
J^rica 261.
Jer6nimos, Corta de los
426.
Jijona 275.
Jiloca, the 156.
Jimena de la Frontera
372.
Jimera 872.
Joyosa, La 174.
Jticar, the 241. 26S. 276.
•luliobriga 177.
Juncal 686.
Juneda 238.
Junqueira 584. 640.
Jurdes, the 449.
Justibol 173.
Justicia 868.
Juyi 188.
Lacera, Sierra 279.
Laguna Salada 279. 830.
Ligosa 481.
Lanjaron 869.
INDEX.
603
L^picbe, Puerto 301.
Larraga 1T7.
Lastanosa ISO.
Lavradio 6i6.
Lavrao, Serra da 564. 566.
Lebrija 42S.
Lega, the 583.
— da Palmeira 583.
Legamarejo 126.
Legan^s 445.
Legazpia 14.
Legorreta 14.
Leiria 552.
Lemon a 20.
Lemos 481. 491.
Leon 474.
— , Kingdom of 5.
— , Isla de 386. 433.
L^rida 216. 180. 238.
Lerfn 177.
Lezama 25.
Lezenbo 510.
Lezirfas, the 513.
Lexo-Renterfa 10.
Li bar, Sierra de 372. 370.
Librilla 297.
Limpsias 44.
Linares 802. 485.
Linea de la Concepcion.
La 380.
Lippe, Forte de 509.
Lisbda 518.
Lisbon 514.
Academia Bea] das
Sciencias 527.
Ajuda, Palace of 535.
Alameda de 8ao Pedro
de Alcantara 524,
Alci&ntara 534.
— , the 514. 533. •
Alfandega 5<0.
-^ Grande 531.
Aljube 528.
Almafala 529.
St. Anthony of Padua,
House of 527.
Aqueducfo das Aguas
Livres 626.
Archivo Oeral 527.
Arsenal 530.
Asvlo de D. Maria Pia
m.
Aterro 534.
Avenida da Liberdade
522.
Baixa, Gidade518.621.
Bankers 517.
basilica do 88. Oora^ao
de Jesus 526.
Baths 516. ■
Beer Houses 516.
Belem, Palace of 535.
— , Tower of 538.
Lisbon:
Bemposta, Palace of
Bibliotheca Publica
523.
Booksellers 616.
Botan. Garden 525.
(Belem) 535.
Buenos Ayres 618. 525.
Bull Ring 517. 539.
Cabs 516. .
Caes de Golumnas 521.
Caf^s 615.
Gamara Municipal 531.
Gampo dos Martyres da
Patria 622.
Carmo 622.
Gasa dos Bicos 531.
— dos Diamantes 531
— das Janellas Yerdes
532.
— da Moeda 531.
— Pia 536.
Gastello de Sao Jorge
Cathedral 627.
Cemeteries 626. 530.
Gemiterio AliemSo 526,
— dos Inglezes 526.
— Occidental 526.
— Oriental 630.
Circuses 617.
Coach Houses, Royal
536.
Colegio Brasileiro 534.
Consulates 517.
Cortes, Palace of the
527.
Cruz de Pedra 630.
— dos Quatro Gamin-
hos 630.
Custom House 520.
Deposito do Alyiella
530.
— das Carruagens Rea-
les 536.
Druggists 616.
Elevadores 615.
Embassies 517.
English Cemetery 526.
— Church 517.
— College 527.
— Factory, Hospital of
the 526
Escola Medica 622.
Estrada da CircumTal-
lacao 519.
-- Militar 519.
Estrella Church 626.
Exchange (Bolsa) 520.
Fortifications 519.
Forts 619.
Foundling Hospital 524.
Lisbon :
Fragoso, Monte 620.
Goods Agents 517.
Govemo Civil 623.
Graja, Convent of 529.
Gun Foundry 530,
Harbour 519. 534.
Hospital dos Alienados
522.
— of the English Fac-
tory 626.
r- de Rilhafolles 622.
— de Sffo Joi^ 622.
Hotels 514.
Igreja do Carmo 622.
Irish Dominicans,
Gonv. A Coll. of the
531.
Jeronymos de Bel^m,
Convento dos 536.
Junqueira 534. 540.
Junta do Gr^dito Pub-
lico 520.
Largo da Bibliotheca
623.
— do Carmo 522.
— do Gorpo Santo 531.
— das Duas Egrejas
522.
— do Limoeiro 528.
— do Municipio 531.
— das Necessidades
533.
— do Pelourinho 631.
— doPrincipeReal525.
— do Rato 625.
— de Sao Bento 527.
— de Santos 532.
Lasareto 64i0.
Limoeiro 628.
Lisboa Occidental 518.
— Oriental 518. 527.
Loreto, Church of 522.
Madre de Deus, con-
vent 530.
MSe d'Agua 525.
Marine Arsenal 531.
— Hospital 529.
Market 621.
Memoria Church 535.
Mercado 521.
— de 24 de Julho 534.
Ministries 530. 621.
Mint 531.
Monumento dos
Restauradores dePor-
tugal 522.
Museu Colonial 624.
— Industrial e Com-
mercial 588.
— Kacional das Bellas
Artes 633.
— Naval 531. .
604
INDEX.
LiSBoir :
MiMena, Anatom. S22.
— , Arcbttolog. 632.
— , Artillery MO.
— , Ethnogr&ph. 697.
—y Geolog. 627.
^y Industrial 688.
— , Natural History
&26.
— , Naval 531.
— , Prehistoric 627.
Naval Academy 631.
Necessidades Palace
6S3.
Nossa Senhora da Con
ceifio Velha 631.
das Chagas 521.
di^ Encarna(ao
622.
da Graf* 529.
-i •— do Monte 629.
das Necessidades
633.
da Penba da
Franca 530.
— — do Vencimento
522.
Novo Betiro 535.
Observatorio Astrono-
mico 525.
— Heteorologico 526.
Oliflipo 519.
Pa^o da Alcagova 523.
-^ de Belem 535.
— das Necessidades
633.
— de 8So Bartholomen
528.
Palacio das Cortes 527.
— da Moeda 228.
— Real 633.
Parliament, House of
527.
Pantheon 629.
Pasaeioda£8trella526.
Pelourinho 631.
Penitenciaria Central
522.
Photographs 616.
Physicians 516.
Picadeiro 636.
Picture Gallery 532.
Polytechnic Institute
525.
Post Office 515.
Praca das Amoreiras
525.
— d'Armas 533.
— de Lniz de Cam5e8
523.
— do Commercio 520.
— de Dom Fernando
535.
LisBov:
PracA de Dom Pedro IV .
621.
— doi Toaros 617.
Praia de Janauelra635.
Prisons 532. 528.
Quarries 634.
QainU de Baixa 635.
— de Nova Cintra639.
Railway SUtions 514.
521. 530. 632. 534.
Restaurants 615.
Rocfo, O 621.
Rua de Alttndega 531.
— Augusta 621.
, Areo da 621.
— do Carmo 622.
— da Bscola Polytecb-
nica 526.
— Garrett 622.
— Nova da Estrella
626.
do Almada 522.
— d'Ouro 621.
— da PraU 521.
— de 8So Roque 524.
— Sareiva de Carval
ho 526.
— do Sol do Rato 526
— 24 de Julho 634.
Santa Cn.ta de Hiseri
cordia 024.
-> CruxdoCa8tello528.
— Engraeia 529.
— Izabel 526.
— Haria da Belem 637.
Santo Amaro, Ermida
534.
— Antao 532.
— Antonio da S^ 527
Sao Ben to. convent 527.
— Jos(5 635.
— Mamede 626.
— Juliao 581.
— Roque 624.
— Thiago 538.
— Vicente de Fora629.
, Mosteiro de 529.
8^ Patriarchal 527.
Shops 516.
Sociedade de Geogra-
phia 624.
Statue of CamSes 523.
— of Joseph I. 621.
— of Magalhaes 527.
-- of Peter IV. 521.
— of SidaBandeira534.
— of Terceira 534.
Steamers 616.
Street Scenes 617.
Tagus, the 618.
Terreiro do Paco 520.
Theatres 517. 621. 523
LiSBOV;
Tobacco 515.
Torre de SSo Vicente
538.
— do Tombo 537.
Town Hall 531.
Tramwaye 516.
Tribunal Supremo 520
Water Conduite 525.
530.
Weapon Factory 530.
Lisbon, Bay of 513. 513.
Livra$So 5d6.
LlansiL 187.
Llena, Sierra de la 182,
Llerena 459.
— , Puerto de 459.
Llevaneras 193.
Llinis 191.
Llobregat, the 183. 197.
220.
— Menor, the 187.
Llodio j24.
Lodosa 177.
Loaches 162.
Logrono 177.
Logrosan 418.
Loja 330.
Lomas de los NiSos 279.
Lombo do Tejo, Mouchao
de51B.
Lopin 181.
Lora del Rio. 304.
Lorca 297.
Lorcha 272.
Lorqni 286.
liOsa-Navas de Riofrio.
La 62.
Lourenco do Bugio, Fort
541.
Loures 539.
Louza, Serra de 564.
Lozoya, the 93. 122.
Lucena (Castdlon) 217
— (Andal.) 307.
— , Sierra de 306.
Luceni 174.
Luchana 24.
Lugar Nuevo 447.
Lugo 481.
— , Province 461.
— de Llanera 489.
Lugones 489.
Lul^ 649.
Lumbreras 298.
Lumiar 699.
Luna 174.
Luque-Baena 807.
Lusitania 504. 442.
Luyando 24.
Luzo 673.
Hach^nudo 430.
INDEX.
605
Machichaco, Gabo 90.
Madera, Sierra de la 283.
Madero^ Sierra del 176.
Kadrid 63.
Academia de Bellas Ar-
tes, Beal 66.
— EspaSola, Beal 69.
-> de la Historia 107.
Ambulance Stations 56,
Archivo de la Corona
97.
— Historico Nacional
90.
Arguellea 101.
Armerfa 97.
Arroyos 66.
Art Exhibitions 92.
Asilo de San Bernar-
dino 101.
Antos de F^ 102.
Ball Games, Basque 58.
Banco de Espana 67.
Banks 57.
Basilica de Nuestra
Senora de Atocha
107. .
Baths 66.
Beer Houses 54.
BibliotecaNacional 90.
Bolsa de Gomercio 68
Booksellers 57.
Botanic Garden 83.
Bridges 66.
British Embassy 94.
Buen Betiro Park 84.
— Suceso, Iglesia de
60.
Bull Bing 58.
Caballerizas y Cochera
Beales 99.
Cabs 55. 53.
Gaf^s 54.
Gaja de Ahorros'94.
Calatravas, Iglesia de
las 66.
Calderon, House of the
Death of 103.
Calle de AlcaU 66. 86.
— de Alfonso XII 85.
— de la Almudena 103.
— del Aren^l 94.
— de Atocha 106.
— de Bail^n \6. 104.
— deEinbajad<5resl05.
— Mayor 102.
— de Oldzaga 86.
— del Prado 106.
— de Beina Cristina
108.
— de Serrano 86.
— de Toledo 106. 106.
Oampillo de las Vis-
tUlas 104.
Madbxd :
Gampo del Moro 97.
Gapilla de S. Isidro 84.
— del Obispo 104.
Gapitania General 103.
Carcel Modelo 101.
— de Mujeres 94.
Carnival 58.
Garrera de San Jerd
nimo 66.
Carriages 56.
Gasa de Ayuntamiento
103.
— de Gampo 108.
— de la China 86. 101.
— Gonsistorial 103.
— de Fieras 84.
— de la Moneda 86.
— Panaderfa 103.
Gatedral de Kuestra
Sefiora de la Almu-
dena 99.
Gementerio de la Sacra-
mental de San Luis
93.
— de San Isidro 106.
— de San Lorenzo 106.
— del SuT 106.
— Inglds 105,
Cervantes^ House 107.
Charitable Institutions
57.
Chemists 66.
Church Festivals 68.
Circuses 58. 67.
Climate 62.
Clubs 67.
Colegio de Desempara-
dos 105.
— de la Paz 105.
— de Sordo-Mutos y de
Ciegos 93.
Collections, etc. 60.
Concerts 58.
Confectioners 54.
Consulates 56.
Convento de las Salesas
94.
— de San Pascudl
Cortes, Palace of the
69.
Cuartel de la Montana
101.
— de San Gil 101.
Deaf-Mutes A Blind
Asylum 93.
Dentists 66.
Dep<$sitos del Canal de
Lozoya 93.
Deapachos Centrales
Direcci6n General de
laDeudaPublical06.
Madrid :
Dos de Mayo, Monu-
mento del 67.
Ecclesiast.Festivals 68.
Embassies 66.
English Church 57.
Environs 108.
Equitable Insurance
Co. 67.
Escuela de Agricultura
101.
— de Artes y Oflcios
lOT.
— de Yeterinaria 105.
Escuelas de Aguirre 86.
Estaci6n del Mediodfa
53. 107.
Exchange 68.
Excursions 106.
Fabrica de Tabacos 105.
— de Tapfces 103.
Foundling Hospital
105.
Fuente de Apolo 67.
— de Gib^les 67.
— de Neptuno 68.
Fuentes Gem^las 69.
Furnished Booms 54.
Glorieta de Bilbao 93.
— de Quevedo 98.
— de San Bernardo 93.
Goods Agents 57.
Hip<5dTomo 92.
History 63.
Horchaterfas 64.
Horse Baces 58.
Hospital de la Latina
105.
— de Nuestra Sefiora
del Carmen 107.
— de la Princesa 94.
— de San Juan de Dios
107.
Hospitals 56.
Hotels 53.
Jardin botanico 83.
— del Buen Betiro 57.
67.
— del Palacio 97.
Inquisition, Prison of
the 94.
Library, Histor. Acad.
107.
— , National 90.
— , Boyal 97.
Lope de Vega, House of
1&7,
, House of- the.
Birth of 103.
Manzanares, the 62. 66.
101. etc.
Marine Ministry 100.
— Museum 100.
606
INDEX.
MAI>miD:
Market 106.
Marriage Market S9.
Masked Balls 06.
Medical Facalty 107.
Ministerio de Fomentu
106.
— de la Qobemacidn
66.
— de Orada y Justicia
94.
— de la Qnerra 67.
— de Ultramar 103.
Mint 86.
Moneloa 101.
Money Changers 67.
Montona Rasa 84.
Monte de Piedid 94.
Montserrat, Convent of
94.
Museo Antropoldgico
107.
— Arqueologico 86.
— deArte Modemo90.
— de Artillerfa 63.
— de Ciencias Vata-
rales 9S.
— de Ingenleros 86.
— Naval 100.
— .del Prado 70.
— Proto-historico Ibe-
rico 86.
— de Seprodncciones
Artisticas 69.
— y Biblioteca de Ul-
tramar 84.
Music 67.
National Museum 86
Natural History Mu-
seum 92.
Newspapers 57.
Noviciado, El 94.
Observatorio Afltro-
ndmlco 107.
Omnibuses 63.
Palacio de la Biblioteca
y Mnseos Nacionales
.— del Congreso 69.
— de los Cons^os 103.
— del Cristi&l 84.
— del Daque de Osuna
108.
» de la Industria y de
las Artes 93.
— de Mnrga 86.
— Pastrana 104.
— Reil96.
Pantedn Naeional 104.
. Parque de Madrid 84.
Pas6o de Atocha 107.
— de la Gastellana 92.
— de las Delicias 107.
Madsid :
Pa9<o de Feraan NnSes
8i.
— de la Florida 101
— de loe Ocho HUos
106.
— del Prado 69. 107.
— de Beeol^tos 86.
— de San Vicente 101.
— de la Virgen del
Puerto 102.
Pensions 54.
Photographs 67.
Physicians 66.
Plaza de Armas 97.
— de la Ceb^da 106
— de CoWn 92.
— de la Gonstitucidn
102.
— de las Cortes 6^
— del Doe de Mayo 94
— de la Independencia
85.
— de Isabel II 96.
— de Madrid 67.
— Mayor 102.
— de los Ministerios
100..
— de Moros 104.
— de MnriUo aS.
— del Obelisco 92.
— de Oriente 95.
— del Progreso 108.
— del Bey 67.
— de. San Marcii&l 101.
— de Santa Ana 103.
— de Toros 68. 61. 86.
— de la Villa 103.
Plazuela del Principe
Alfonso 108.
Police Office, Head 56
Popular Celebrations
Post Office 56.
Pdzas 101.
Pozos de Hielo 102.
Prado 67.
— , Museo del 70.
Drawings 82.
Paintings 70.
Sculptures 82.
— , Paseo del 69.
— , Saldn del 67.
Prisons 94. 101.
Processions 68.
Paente del Bey 66. 102.
— de Segovia 66. 102.
— de Toledo 65. 105.
— Verde 66. 102.
Puerto de Alcali 85.
— Cerrada 106.
— de Hierro 108.
— del Sol 66.
Madbid :
Puerto de Toledo 106.
Qnemad^ro 93.
Railway Offices 63.
— SUtinns 53.
Rastro 105.
Restouraats 54.
Romerfa de San Isidro
69.
Ronda de Atocha 107.
— de Vallejas 103.
Royal Palace 96.
San Andres lOi.
de los Flamen-
cos 92.
— Antonio de la Flo-
ridSf Ermita 102.
— Francisco el Grande
104.
— Oin^s 94.
— Isidro el Real 10!^.
r— — del Campo , Br-
mito 105.
— Jerdnimo el Real 69.
— Jos6 67.
— Lorenzo 50. .
Santo Tom^ 106.
Savings Bank, Manic.
91.
Senado 100.
Shops. 67.
Situation 62. 66.
Stables, Royal 99.
Statue of Bazan 103.
— of Benavente 84.
— of Calderon 106.
— of Cassola 101.
— of Cavanilles 84.
~ of Cervantes 68.
— of Clemente 84.
— of Columbus 92. 103.
— of Daoix A Velarde
69.
— of Concha 93.
— of Elcano 108.
— of Espartero 85.
^— of Isabella the Cath.
92.
— of Lagasca 84.
— of Maria Christina
69.
— of Mendis^bal 106.
— of Murillo 83.
— of Philipp III. 102.
-- of Philipp IV. 95.
— of Piqu6r 94.
— of Pont€jos 94.
— of Quer 84.
— of the Reyes 84. 96.
— of Buia 67.
Street Life 60.
Tapestry Manufactory
fie.
INDEX.
607
Mad&id :
Tapiceria 97.
Telegraph Office 66.
Telephones 56.
Theatres 57. 67. 86. 95.
106.
Tobacco 64.
— Factory 106.
TorreeiUa, La 102.
Torre delosLujineslOS,
Town Hall 103.
Tramways 65.
Tranvfas 65.
University 94.
Venta de Espfritu
Santo 86.
Verbenas 69.
Veterinary College 106.
Virgen de la Alma-
dena, Church of I
— del Puerto, Ermita
• 100.
Water Beservoirs 93.
Zoological Garden 84,
Madrigal 45.
Madrina, La 9.
Hafra 649.
Magaceite 431.
Magacela 454.
Magaz 18.
Malabata, Cape 381.
Malaga 321.
Ad u ana 326.
Alameda 324.
Alcazifcba 327.
Arco de Cristo 827.
Avenida de Pries 327.
Barrio de Capuchinos
328.
— de la Malagueta
328. 327.
— de la Victoria 323.
Baths 322.
Buen Retiro 828.
Bull Ring 322. 327.
Caleta 323. 328.
Calle del Marques de
Larios 325.
— Nueva 326.
— de San Agustin 326.
Camino Kueyo327. 328.
Gasa de Ayuntamiento
326.
Cathedral 325.
Cementerio Ingles 327.
Cerro Colorado 328. 327.
CUmate 324.
Goncepci<5n, La 828.
Consula 328.
Coracha 327;
Cortina del Muelle 826.
Cristo de la Victoria,
El 327.
Malaga:
English Church 322.
Faro, the 326.
Fuente de Neptuno 324
Gibralfaro 327. 322.
Hacienda de San Jos^
Harbour 325.
HospiUl Noble 327.
— de Santo Tomis 326.
Hoya 323. 321.
Huelin 323.
Lighthouse 825.
Limonar 323. 328.
Manufactories 823.
Mercado 325.
Palacio Obispal 325
Paseo de la Alameda
824.
— de la Farola 325.
Perchel 323.
Plaza de la Constitacion
325.
— de Riego 327.
— de Toros 322. 327.
Post Office 322. 326.
Puente de Tetuan 324
Paerta del Mar 325.
Sagrario 326.
Santiago el Mayor 326.
Sea Baths 322.
Steamers 322.
Teatinos 328.
Theatres 322. 825.
Torre de Vela 327.
Torrijos' Monument
827.
Trinidad 323.
Vega 323.
Wine Growing 323.
— Merchants 322.
Malaga, Huya de 321. 323
Malagdu 463.
— , Sierra de 46. 49.
Malandar, Punta del 420.
Malato Tree, the 24.
Malgrat 192.
Maliciosa, Monte de lit
123.
Malpartida de Caceres
450.
— de Plasencia 448.
Malvedo 484.
Malveira 560.
M^lzaga 20.
Mancha, La 276. 300.
Mangualde 573.
Manfses 266.
Manlleu 191-
Manresa 212.
Manuel 268.
Manzanal Mts. 480.
Manzaniires 301.
-, the 50. 62. 66. 101.
445.
Manzaneque 463.
Manzanil, the 330.
Manzanos 17.
Mar Menor 290.
Marao, Serra de 588.
Marbella 821.
Marchaz, Sierra de 448.
Marchena 387. 319.
Marcilla 176.
Marco 586.
Mariaga, Montana de 270.
Maria Cristina, Canal de
278.
Marinha Grande 562.
Maridla, Sierra de 274.
Marmelos SSo Sebastiao
540.
Marmolejo 303.
Marro, Castillo !^24.
Marron 44.
Marroqui, Punta 381.
Marsa-Falset 182.
Martigan^a 652.
Martin del Rio 40. 72.
Martinete 368.
Martorell 229.
Martos 306.
Marvao 451. 510.
Masalav^s 263.
Maaanasa 266.
Masnou 193.
Mata, Salina de la 283.
Mats de Alcantara, La 450.
— del Fang 266.
Mataporqu^ra 41. 484.
Matapozuelos 19.
Matar6 193.
Matas, Las 50.
— , Monta£as 191.
— Verdes 278.
Matillas 154.
Matto de Miranda 512.
Mattosinhos 583.
Mauror, Monte 333. 352.
Mayor, Munte 251.
Mazanet, Sierra de 192.
Mazarron 245.
Mealhada 564.
Meeo 163.
Medellin 455.
Mediaconcha Vallev 42.
Medina del Campo 19. 45.
61. 464.
— de Rioseco 18.
Medinaceli 155. .
Medinat az-Zahr& 318.
Meinedo 686.
Melgarejo 438.
Meliana 267.
Membrljo 451.
608
INDEX.
XendavU 177.
Menjfbar 302. 306.
Xequinensa, Sierra de
H^rida 4fi6. 402. 460.
Mertina 436.
HetoUinum 456.
Mlerea 486.
Miguelturra 301.
MUareB, the 241. 247.
Mljas 321.
— , Sierrade320.321.322.
Milagro 176.
Mina la Terrible 304.
Xinas, Las 461.
— del Mundo, Las 286.
— de Rio Tinto 424.
Hinaya 278.
MindeUo 583.
Mingorria 45.
Mingote 290.
Minho, ProT. 565. 586.
— , the 482. 491. 584.
Ministra, Sierra 155.
Mirador, £1 226.
— de Cristina 126.
Miraflores, Cartuja de 34.
Miranda, La 226.
— de Ebro 17. 25. 178.
Mirandella 587.
Miravalles 24.
Miravel 450.
Mirayete, Sierra de 447.
Mislata 266.
Mogente 270.
Mogofores 664.
Hoita 546.
Mola, Monte 182.
Molar, Sierra del 283.
Molddo 586.
Molina 286.
Molinar 44.
Molin^l 272.
Molinos, Sierra de 277.
— Gaadarrama, Los 52.
Molina del Bey 223.
MoUedo 42.
Mollerasa 215.
MoUet 191.
Monasterio de Piedral56.
Moncabr^r 274.
Moncada 192. 211.
Moncayo, the 174.
Monchique, Baths and
Serra de 548.
Monda 321.
Mondariz 493. 494.
Mondayo, Sierra de 28
Mondego, the 553. 564.
5667
— , Campo de 564.
Mondragon 16.
Monduber, or
Xondove, the 271.
Xonfklco-XnraUat 214.
Monforte 279.
— de Lames 481. 491.
Mongat 196.
Moned, the 273. 266. 268.
m.
Moniatrol 212. 220. 221.
— de BajadeU 214.
Moi^e, the 646.
Moiyot 230.
Mon6yar 379.
Monserrate, Qainta de
546.
MonsoUu 190.
Montabem^r 274.
Montablis 42.
Montagut, XonUnas de
239.
Montalegre, Cartuja de
193.
MontaSas Malas 197.
Montanche2,Sierra de448.
453. 454.
Montanchuelos 801.
Montblanch 288.
Montbny 192.
Montcau, Boca 226.
Mont d' Baton! 541.
Monte Aragdn 446.
— daa Flores 647.
Montefurado 481.
Montejaque 373.
Montejunto, the 561.
Montemor Novo 647.
— Velho 664.
Montera, Coll de 227.
Monte Beal 663.
Montesa 270.
Montes Claros 548.
Montgros, the 226.
Montijo 467.
MontiUa 319.
— , Sierra de 807. 319.
Montjuich 210.
Montmeld 191.
Montoro 303.
Montsant, the 182. 184.
Montseny, the 190.
Montserrat, the 218.
~, Monasterio del 223.
Montsia, the 246.
Montsiat 224.
Monzalbarba 178.
Monz6n 180.
— de Campos 41.
Mora 452.
la Nueva 182.
Moral, El "301.
Morata 167.
Morell 228.
Morella 246.
— . La 229.
Xorena, Sierra 277. 294.
301. 443.
Mores 167.
Moriscos 464.
Moro, Boca del 226.
Xor6n de la Frontera
387.
— , Sierra de 887.
Mosaoitos, Venta de los
Mota,' CasUUo de la 13.
Motril 349. 828.
Monro, isl- 44.
Muchamiei 282. 276.
Muela de Montreviche
2U.
-, Sierra de la 167.
Muelas de Carcele'n 378.
Mugica 30.
Mngi^eira 640.
Mala, Sierra de la 386.
Mulhacen, Cerro de 369.
Monda 321.
Mundilca 20.
, the 20.
Mnndo, the 344. 285.
— , Calar del 244.
Manorisa 213.
Mnrcia 286.
, Huerta of 284. 2S6.
, ProY. 243. 386.
Muro 272.
Muryiedro 349.
Masa, Djebel 380.
KabSo, the 561.
N^era 178.
Nanclares de la Oca 16.
Naranco 488.
Ifaya de la A0anci6ii 51.
— del Bey 19.
Nayacerrada, Puerto de
123.
Nayalmoral de la Mata
446.
Nayalperal 50.
Il^ayalquejigo 50.
Nayarre 15. 159. 160.
Navarrete 178.
l^ayas, Vento de las 306.
— del Madrono 450.
— del Marques, Las 50.
— de Biofrio 62.
— de Tolosa, Las 302.
Nayazos 432.
Nayidiello 485.
Negra, Pena 336.
Negro, Monte 262. 272.
Neila, Sierra de 178.
Nellas 573.
Neryion, the 30. 21. 45.
Nevada, Sierra 294. 339.
INDEX.
609
Niepla 423.
Kieves, Las 492.
l^ine 584.
Niza 510.
Koain 175.
Koela 229.
l^oguera, the 180. 184,
NoUa 267.
Nonaspe 181.
Nonas. Las 298.
11 ossa Senhora das Areias
565.
de Nazareth 552.
Notr^ Arfan 198.
Novelda 279.
Noya, the 229.
Nuestra Se&ora deAlarcos
463.
de Bellula 191.
de CJorredo, Sierra
delSO,
de la LuB 450.
de las Nieves 801.
de Bequesens 187.
del Vinyet 227.
Nules 248.
Nullcs 227.
Numantia 165.
Oazurza, Tunnel of 14.
Obarenes, Hontes 17.
Obejo 303.
Obidos 551.
— , Lago d\ 561.
Oca, the 17.
Ocana 276.
Ocata 193.
Odemira 548.
Odivellas 639.
Odres, the 586.
Oeiras 541.
Ojen 321.
Ojuelos, Los 387.
Olacueta 20
Olaveaga 24. 45.
Olazagutia. 15.
Olesa 212.
Olho de Cabra 586, 587.
Oliana 217.
Olite 175. .
Oliva 272.
— , Lago de 272.
Oliyaes 513.
Olivdres 421.
Oliveirinha 573.
Oliveira do Bairro 564.
Oliven^a 458.
Oiler, Puig del 191.
Olleria 274.
OUeros 41. .
OUoniego 485.
Olmedo (Vallad.) 51.
Olocau 267.
Clot 188.
OSa 17.
the 188.
Once, Roca de las 290.
Ondara 272.
Ontanares 51.
Ontaneda 44.
Onteniente 274.
Ontigola 276.
— , Mar de 126.
Onnba 423.
Oporto 573.
Academia 577.
Alfindega 579.
Armazens 582.
Associao Britannica
579.
Asylo de Hendicidade
m.
Athenea 580.
Avenida de Saraiva de
Carvalho 581.
Bull Ring 575. 578.
Oadeia daRela$ao 577.
Campo dos Martyres da
Patria 577.
— Pcqueno 678.
Garmo Church 577.
Casa de Camara 676.
— de Boda 577.
Cathedral 581.
Cemiterio de Agra-
monte 578.
— dos Inglezes 578.
— do Frado do Repouso
580.
City Hall 576.
— Wall, Old 581.
Cl^rigos Church 577.
Companhia Horticolo-
Agricola 578.
Crystal Palace 578.
Custom House 579.
English Cemetery 578.
— Church 575. 578.
— Factory House 679.
Escola-Medica 577.
Exchange (Bolsa) 579.
Foundling Hospital
577.
Garrett, House of the
Birtb of 57S.
Goldsmiths 580.
Hospital Militar 578.
— de Santo Antonio
da Misericordia 577.
Jardim da Gordoarfa
677.
— de SSo Lazaro 580.
Largo da PoUcia 581.
— de SSo Domingos
579.
— de Vifiato 577.
Baedeker's Spain and Portugal.
Ofokto :
Library, Public 580.
Mereado do Anjo 577.
Miragaia 579.
Monte de'S&o Nicolau
682. ~
Museu Industrial e
Commercial 578.
— Municipal 577.
Nossa Senhora da Lapa
5T7.
da Misericordia
679.
da Serra daPilar
5S2.
Opera House 680.
Paso Episcopal 581.
Palacio do Freixo 580.
— Real 578.
Passeio das Fontainhas
580.
— das Virtudes 678.
Pedro IV., Statue of
576.
— v., Statue of 530.
Polytechnic 577.
Ponte de Dom Luiz I.
681.
Post Office 574. 530.
Praca daiBatalha 680.
— de Carlos Alberto
577.
— de Dom Pedro 570.
— do Peixe 577.
— da Ribeira 579.
— dos Voluntarios da
Rainha 577.
Railway Stations 573.
580. 582.
Rua do Bellomonte
579.
— da Boa Vista 578.
— da Garvalhosa 678.
— Cha 681.
— Cima do Muro 579.
— daft Flores 579.
— das Fontainhas 580.
— dos Fogueteiros 578.
— do Infante Dom
Henrique 679.
— da RestauraflkO 577.
— de S. Antonio 530.
— de Sao JoXo 579.
— do Triumpho 678.
Santa Clara 581. ■
Sao lldefonao 580.
— Francisco 579.
— Martinho de Cedo*
feita 678.
— Pedro 579.
S^, the 581.
Seminario 5^0.
Steamboats 574.
39
610
INDBX.
Opobto:
Thuitrei 675. 660.
Torre dot Gl^rigM STI.
Tramwtys 574.
Tribonfti 577.
VilU Nova de Oaia
976. 583.
Wine-atoreboiiMi 582.
Ordal, HontonM de 239.
OrdMquelra 551.
OrduSa 25.
~, PefiA de 36.
Orenae 491.
— , ProYinee 40t
Orejo 44.
Oretam 901.
Orgftfia 217.
Orgaz 452.
Oria, the 18.
OiibueU 284.
-, Salina de 283.
— , Sierra de 284.
Ormaiztegui 14.
Oroel, Pena de 161. 173.
Oropesa (Gastellon) 247.
— (Talavera) 44fi.
Orozco, the 24. 25.
Ortigosa 51.
0»ca 179.
Osebe 485.
Oaera 181.
Osorno 41.
Osana 886.
Ota 513.
Otero de HerreroB 52.
Otger 224.
Otzaurte 14.
Ourem 553.
Ourique 548.
Oateiro m, 548.
Oyir 665.
Oviedo 48i.
~, Proviace 461.
Pacheoo 290.
Paco d'Arcos 540.
Padrdn 495.
pD^sola 423.
Palz do Vlnbo (Oporto)
586.
Pajaiito, Penas dc 248.
Palacios 427.
Pilamos 188.
Palanoia, the 241. 248.
251.
Palanquinos 473.
Palan-del-Vidre 186.
Palautordera 191.
Palencia 39. 478.
— , Province 18.
Palla 586.
"alleji 228.
Ima, La 290.
Palma del Oondado, La
423.
— del Bio a04.
Palmaa, Desierto de lae
247.
Palmella 646.
Palo 328.
Palomar 266. 819.
Palomaa, Venta de las
306.
Palot delaFroiitera424.
—, Cabo de 299.
Pampaneira 869.
Pampeltuia 176.
Pampilbosa 564.
Pamplona 175.
Panad^fl, Monte 230.
Paneorbo 17.
— , Garganta de 17.
— , Sierra de 17.
Pandera, La 305.
Panoiae 648.
Panof 366.
Pantoja y Alameda 452
Papuraa, Sierra de laa
Papfol 228.
Paracuellot de la Bibera
167.
Para(d93 887.
Paraiao, Valle del 212
Parapanda, Sierra de830.
Parchite 3(>9.
PardQ, El 106. 50.
Parede 541.
Paredea de Kava 473.
Parga 482.
Parral, Honaat. del 120
Paaajea 10.
Pa#eo de San Qregorio
492.
Paamd 174.
Paso de Tret Ponta 217,
Paatris 181.
Paular, El 122.
Payalvo 561.
Peares, Los 491.
Pederoalea 20.
Pedra de Alvidrar 545.
Pedralbes, Monaat. 211.
Pedrera 386.
Pedro Abad 803.
Pedrochea 454.
Pedrola 174.
Pedroto (Salam.) 464.
— , Monte 500.
—, Sierra del 904. 454.
Pedroucoa 640. 539.
Pego 272.
Pegffes 547.
Pela, Sierra .464.
Pena, Castello da 544.
Pena, La 329.
Pena Goloaa 347.
— de lot Bnamoradoa
329.
— de Santo Domingo,
Sierra de 161. 173.
Penafiel 18.
Penaflor804.
Penalara, Pico de 122.
Penaranda de Bra«&>
monte 471.
Penarroya 804.
Penba Verde 545.
Peniche 561.
—, Cape 561.
Penfacola 246.
Peralada 187.
Perdigner. lala 280.
Pereliu, Gaatillo de 239.
Pemea 580.
Pero Negro 650.
— Pinbeiro 546.
Perplgnan 186.
Pertbna. Col de 187.
Peso 461. 1
— da Begua 586.
Peaquera 42.
Petrel 279.
Pheaaanta,. lale of 9.
Piat 543.
Picacho de la Veleta368.
Picamoizons 233. 237.
Picotoa, the 54J5.
Piedra Encantada 270.
Hedrebita 17.
Pila, Sierra de la 286.
Piloa 272.
Pimentel, Torre de 822,
Pina de Ebro 181.
Pinal, Montanaa del 428.
Pineda 192.
Pinhal Novo 546.
PinhSo 587.
Pinhel 578.
Pino, Monte 251.
Pinoa 368.
— Puente 381.
Pinto 275.
Pituerga. the 18. 36. 41.
Pizarra 820.
Placencia 20.
Plana-Picamoixons 23S.
Plantio, El 50.
Plaaencia 449.
— de Jaldn 168.
— , Llano de 157. 174.
Plencia 24.
Pobea 25.
Pobia 227.
Poblet 238.
PoceirSo 547.
Pocinho 687.
Pocito, Sierra de 453.
Poja do Bl«tpo 519.
INDEX.
611
Pola de Lena 485.
— de Gordon 484.
Polinino 180.
Pomb^ 568.
Ponferrada 481.
Pons 217.
Ponte do Lima 585.
— de Maria Pia 565.
— de Beguengo 513.
— de 86r 510.
Pontevedra 494.
— , Province 461.
Pontdn de la Oliva 93.
Poqiieira Valley 369.
Porcalhota 541.
Porman 245.
Ponino 493.
PorUooeli, Cartuja 267,
Portalegre 610.
— , Serra de 610.
Porto0 de Bodao 511.
Portazgo del Puerto 329.
Port-Bou 187.
— Vendres 187.
Porto (Oporto) 573.
Portugal 501.
Portugalete 24.
Portua, Col de 187.
Posadas 304.
Pdtries 272.
Pousa 492.
Povoa 513.
— , Mouchao de 513.
~ da Galega 540.
— de Varsim 583.
Povos 513.
Poaildez 19.
Pozazal 41.
Pozo Canada 285.
Pozos de Anibal 302.
Pozuela 428.
Pozuelo 50.
Pr^anoB 17.
Pradell 182.
Prades, Sierra de 213.
238.
Prado del Bey 431.
Pragal 540.
Praia, (on the Tagus)511.
— (Oporto) 5S3.
— das Macas 540.
Prat de Llobregat 236.
Premiil de Dalt 193.
— de Mar 193.
PjFlorato, £1 182.
Proserpina, Lago de 457.
Prugo, Sierra de 330.
Puda, La 212.
Puebia de A^ganzdn 16.
— de Brollon 481.
— de la Calzada 457.
— de Hijar 181.
— Larga 268.
Puebia de Bugat 274.
— de San JuliiCn 481.
— de Valverde 251.
Pueblo junto a C<Sria425.
— Nuevo 193. 210.
Puente Areas 494.
— de Alba 484.
— de Alcon^tar 450.
del Arzobispo 446.
— del Diablo 217. 229.
de Duero 18.
— de los Fieros 485.
Oenil 319. 307.
del Lladoner 228.
— Zuazo 434.
Puentes, Pantano de298.
Puercas, Las 436. 386.
Puerto. El 432.
— de Bejar 472.
— LeizSes 583.
— Beal 438.
— Serrano 481.
Puertollano 453.
Puig 252.
Puigcerda 217.
Puigvert-Ajrtesa 238.
Pulgar, Veata del 830.
Punto, El 275. 151.
Purchena 298.
PuruUena 300.
Puzol 261.
Pyrenees, tbe 184. 217.
duegigal 472.
Que^o, Castello do 583.
Queluz de Baiza 541
— Bellas 541.
— de Cima 641.
Quereno481.
Quero 277.
Quinta da Bella Vista
545.
— de Monserrate 545.
Quintana 479.
— del Puente 18.
Quintanapalla 17.
Quintanilla de las Torres
41.
Quintenilleja 18.
Quintans 564.
Quinto 18L
Quita Pesares 120.
Bibade 482.
B4bida, La 424.
Bafelbunol 267.
Rajadell 214.
Bamalbal 561.
Ramalbao., Qulnta da
546.
Rapfta, Pico de la 251.
248.
Baymat 180.
Beci^o 177.
Recarei 586.
Redinha 563.
Bedonda, Isla 290.
Bedondela 403.
Regoa 586.
Regordilla, Barranco de
Beinosa 41.
Reizach 192.
Remolino 174.
Renedo 42.
Renterfa 10.
R^us 228. 237.
Beventon, Puerto de 122.
Reyes, Cald9.s de 495.
Ribaforada 175.
Bibagorza 161.
Ribarroja 182.
Bibeira Beal, tbe 551.
Bicla 157.
Bielves 445.
Biera 227.
Bincdn^ Lake of 319.
— de Soto 176.
Bio Frio, Barranea del
329.
. Navas de 52.
Bio Tinto 583,
Mines 424.
Rioja, the 177.
Bipoll 191.
BipoUet 212.
Biquelme 289.
Bitori, Val de 191.
Biudecanas-Botarell 182.
Bludell6ts de la Selva
190.
Riva," La 238.
Blvadivia 491.
Bobla, La 41. 484.
Bobledo de Chavela 50.
Boca, La 191.
— -, Cabo da 545.
— Corba 188.
Roeaberti 193.
Roche, Cape 386.
Roda, La m 320.
— de Bar* 227.
R<5dao, Portaa de 611.
Rojales-Benijdfar 283.
Roliga 551.
Romeral, Venta del 906.
Boncesvalles 165.
Ronda 370.
-, Sertania d^ 369. 370.
— la'vi^a 372.
Rosaa 188.
— , Las 192.
Rota 426.
— , Castle 157.
Rozas, Las 50.
39*
612
INDEX.
Bua-Petin, La 481.
Eobia, La 868.
—, Pcna 279. '
RnbUn 481.
Bueda de Jal6n 157.
Runa 600.
BabadeU212.
Sabago 649. ■
Saeavem 513.
Sacristana, Cerro de la
452.
Sacro, Pico 500.
S^daba 174.
Sagra Sierra 244.
Sagnnto 248.
Sahagun 473.
»$aint Ube^s 646.
Salamanca 464.
Alamedilla Park 466.
471.
Archives 468.
Ball Bing 464.
. Old 466.
Calle del Prior' 470.
Casa de Ayantamiento
465.
— de Dcmentes 471,
— de las Conchae 466.
— de los Maldonados
de Uorillo 471
— de las Muertea 470.
— de la Salfna 470.
— de los Suarez Solis
de Canada 471.
. €atedral Nueva 466.
— Vieja 487.
Gulegio del Arzobispo
471.
— de la.Calatrava 470.
— de la Companla 466.
— de Nobles Irlandeses
471.
— de San Bartolom^
466.
— • de Santiago Ap6stol
471.
— Viejo 466.
Convento de las Agtis-
tinas Becoldtas 470.
— de DominicHS de
Santa Maria 470.
. — de la Vega 471.
DiputacicStt Provincial
470.
. Duegas,-Lat 4^0.
Escuelas Mayores 468.
— Menores 4^.
Espiritu Santo, Ghnrob
of 471. .
Hospital del. Estndio
468.
i^nsane Asylum 471.
Salauavca :
Institnto Provincial
468.
Honasterio de Bemar-
das del Jes6s 471.
Monument of Colam
bus 470.
— of de Desa 469.
— of de Leon 468.
— of de Soto 469.
Museum 470.
Palacio Episcopal 466.
~ de los Maldonados
de Amatos 465.
— de Monterey 470.
Plaza del Coleglo Vie-
jo 466.
— de Coldn 470.
— Mayor 466.
— de Toros 464.
— de la Verdura 466.
Plazuels de la Univer-
sidad 468.
Puerta de Santo Tom&s
470. 471.
— de Zamora 465.
Roman Bridge 471.
San Benito 471.
— £st€ban 469.
— Marcos 465.
— Martin 466.
>- Mateo 471.
Santa Maria de la Sede
467.
Santiago Church 471.
Santo Domingo 469.
— Tom^s Cantuaren^e
470. .
Seminario- Coneiliar
466.
Torre del Clavero 470.
Town Walls 471.
Universidad 468.
University Library 469.
Valdes, House of 471.
Salam6 227.
Salar 830.
Salas 179.
Sal^r 265.
Salillas 157.
Salinas, Las 329.
-, Sierra de 279.
— de L^niz 16. 20.
Salio, Monte 246.
Salor, the 461. 452.
Sal<3u 237. 238.
-, Cape 238.
Salteras 423.
Salvador, Monte 191.
Salvatierra 15. 492.
Sameiro, Monte 585.
Samper de Calanda 181.
San Adrian 177.
San Adrian, Ermita de 14.
, Sierra de 14.
— Agnstln 5M..
— Andres de la Bares
229. .
de Llevaneras 193.
de Palomar 192.
— Antonio, Gabo 273.
— -^, Cerro de 328.
Abad 290.
— Asensio 178.
— Benito de Calatrava
Ixvi.
— Boy de Llobregat 228.
— Carlos de la Bipita
239
— Celoni Iflil.
— Clodio 481.
— Crist6bal 41.
. Cerro de 370. 426.
431. 467. 459.
^ Est^ban 491. -
— Felipe Neri 283.
— Felfu de Canovellas
191.
- de Guixols 190.
— de Llobregat 228.
Fernando 4^. 162.
, Canal de 425.
— Francisco 890.
, Penon de 368, 369.
— Gervasio de Casollas
211.
- Guim 214.
— Hilario, Monies de
180.
— Ignacio . de Loydia
13.
- Ildefonso 120.
- Isidro 228.
del Campo 421.
de Duenas 18.
- Jacinto, Torre 426.
- Javier 290.
>- Jerdnimo, Convento
de 318.
, ErmiU 226.
, Turd de 226.
de Yuste 447.
- Jordi .183.
- Jorge, Canal de 278.
- — , Qolfo de 289.
- Juan, Barranco de
868.
- — , Castillo 271. 274.
^ Fuentede 271.
de las ^badesas
191.
de Alicante 282.
275.
- r- de Aznalfarache
423. .
de Moanrrffar 179.
INDEX.
613
San Juan de Nieva 4804
de la PeSa 161.
del Puerto 423.
— Just 'm.
— Iiorenso, Oerro de
178.
^ MonteSa de 212.
— Loorenso do Bagio 541.
— Li&car de Barrameda
• 428.
— -T- la Mayor 423.
— Marcoa de Sena 549.
— Martin, Cabo 274.
de Centellas 191.
de Sarrooa 229.
— Hartinbo das Amo-
reiraa 548.
— Miguel, Gapilla de 225.
, Sierra de 469.
de las DueSas 481.
del Fay 191.
de FlttTii 188.
— Pablo 372.
— Paacual, Convent© 126.
, Sierra de 282.
— Payo 494.
— Pedro, Ermita de 272.
, Penaa de 285.
, Puerto de 289.
, Sierra de 461. 452.
— .— de Cardena 86.
de Oza 482.
de Pinatar 290.
de Biusech 212.
de Tarrasa 212.
Martir, Ermita 211.
— Pol de Mar 192.
— Qufrifco 191.
— Rafael, Yenta de 52.
■— Bamdn, convent 214.
— Bomualdo, Castillo de
433.
— Boque 373.
— Sadurnf, or
— Saturninodel^oya229
— Sebaatiin 10.
— Torcuato, Ermita de
299
— Vicente 178. 461.
de Calders 227. 230.
de Caatellet 212.
de Llevaneras 193.
del Easpeig 279.
, Sierra de 446.
Sanchidriiin 46.
Sancti Espiritut 472.
— Petri, Canal de 386.
433.
Sangonera, the 297.
Sanliiear de Barrameda
- la Mayor 423.
Sans 228.. j^
Sant Yicdns de MoUet
191.
Santa Agueda 16.
— Ana, Ermita 269
271.
Sant' Anna 512.
Santa Barbara 245, 246.
, Monte de 13.
— Cecilia , Capilla 224.
— Clara, Convento 282.
, island 13.
— ColomadeFarn^s 190.
217. 248.
de Gramanet 192.
— Comba Dao 573.
— Cruz de Boedo 41. 42.
— de Mudela 301.
Elena 302.
— Eulalia 510.
Faz, Convento 282.
— F6 331.
— , Castle 214.
Isabel, Fuerte de 10.
— Julia 217.
— Margarita, Monte de
188.
— Maria, Puerto de432.
426.
- - Valle de 221.
de Huerta 156.
de meva 51.
de Palftutordera
191.
' — la Bilbida 424.
la Real 41^
da Victoria 666.
— Marina, Monte 500.
Santander 42.
Santa Olalla 17.
Carmena 445.
Pola 282.
, Cabo de 280.
Saintar^m 512.
Santa Susana 192.
Sant^ Creus 227.
— Martas 473.
Santiago de Bahamonde
482.
— de Compostela 496.
Santibimez 484^
Santiponce 421.
Santo Agustin 663.
Santona 44.
Santos de Mjiimona, Los
460.
SantuUano 485.
Santurce 24.
Sao Bartholomeu de Mes-
sines 549.
- Domingos 541,
- Joi:o de Estoril 541.
da Foz 582.
— Juliao, Fort 541.
Sao Mamede 661.
, Serra de 451. 509.
510.
de Tua 687.
— Martinho do Porto
562.
— Miguel, Monte de 553.
Pedro 542. 543.
Bumao 583.
Saraf OBsa 163.
Academia de Bellas Ar^
tes 170. .
Altav&s 165.
Arrabal 165.
Audiencia 170,
.Bull Bing 163. 171.
Calle del Coso 169.
— de la IndependeiLcia
172.
— de Don Jaime L 169.
— de Boda 170.
— de San Bias 170.
— de San Pablo 170.
Campos Elis^os 172.
Casa de Ayuntamiento
166.
— Blanca 173.
— de los Gigantes 170.
— de la Infanta 169.
— de Zaporta 169.
Castillo de la ATjaferfa
171.
Cathedrala 166. 167.
Coldgio de San Felipe
Coso,* the 169.
Diputaci<5n Provincial
169. .
Exchange 1B6.
Fuente de la Sangre
169.
Gobierno Civil 169.
Hospicio Provincial
171.
LoDJa 166.
Nuestra Senora del
Portillo 171.
Ortilla 173.
Palacio Araobispal 166.
— del Conde da Azarra
169, 170.
Paseo del Ebro 166.
Pignatelli's Statue 172.
Platen'a 170.
Plaza de la Constitucion
169.
— del Mercado 170.
— de Toros 163. 171.
Puente de Piedra 165.
Puerta del Angel 166.
— del Portillo 171.
— de S..Engracia 172.
San Fernando 172,
614
INDEX.
Saeagossa :
8«a Joan dalOB Ptnetei
169.
— Pablo 170.
SaaU KngraeUf con
▼ent 173.
— F<, coaTent 170.
Santas UaaaA 173.
Santiago 169.
Seminario Coneiliav
166.
Seo, La 166.
Theatraa 163. 173.
Torre NaeTo 170.
Torrero 173.
Virgen del PUar 167.
Waterworka 173.
8ardaSola 313.
Sarinena 180.
Sarnadaa 611.
Sarrii 188. 311.
Sarria (Oalicia) 481.
Sarridn 361.
Savoia 648.
Sax 379
Scipios/ Tomb of tbe2aO.
Seeo, Rio 346. 831.
SeouiU Ferafort 337.
Segadas, Laa 486.
SegMa, Monte 273.
Segontia 164.
Segdrbe 261.
Segoyia 117. 61.
— , Pinar de 122.
Segre, the 180. 188. 215.
Segunda Aguada 434.
Segura. the 14. 341. 344.
m 386. 387. .
Selgua 180.
Selra 338.
Sentana, CasUllo de 368,
Seo de Urgel 317.
Septimanca 39.
Sepulcro de los Bacipio-
neaSdO.
Serantea, M ontafta de 24.
Serena, La 461.
Serin 489.
Sernache 663.
Serdn 388.
Serp, La 193.
Serpa 548.
Sesena 376.
Seatao 34.
Sete Fillaa 304.
Setelix 217.
Setenil 869.
Setiaea, Pal. de 544.
Setubal 646.
Berille 387.
Academia de Bellaa
Artee 414.
Aduana 417.
Sbvillk t
Alameda de Htfreulea
413.
Alc^sar 867.
— , Gardens of the 400.
Amnaement, Placea of
888.
Antlquitiea, Coll. of
414.
Archivo de Indias 396.
Art Exhibition 883.
Artillery ArMsal 417.
Audiencia 400.
Banks 888.
Baths S8S.
Barrio de loa Humeros
416.
— de San Bernardo 419.
Biblioteca Oolambina
403.
Boll Ring 389.
Caf^a-chanUnta 389.
Calle de Alemanes 401.
~ de Alfonso XII 416.
— de Amor de Dios
413.
-> de la Cuna 413.
— del Gran Capitan
403.
~ de Santa Clara 413.
— de las Sierpes 409.
— de Trajano 418.
Cannon Foundry 419.
Canoa de Oarmona 419.
422.
Capitanfa del Puerto
418.
Cartuja 420.
Casa de Ayuntamiento
409.
— del Duqve de Alba
411.
— de Expoaitoa 412.
— Lonja 896.
— de Pilatos 410.
Casaa Capitulares 409.
Cathedral 402.
Cementerio de San Fer-
nando 413.
— de San Joa^ 891.
Church Feativala 890.
City Wall 413.
Climate 394.
Clubs 388.
Colegio de San Miguel
Conaulado 397.
Conaula 389.
Gonvento de la Merced
414.
— de San Clemenfe el[
Real 413.
— de San Jerdnimo 413.
SsriLLS:
CooTealo da Saata
C\T% 413.
Paula 411.
Griax del Gampo 419.
Cuaa, La 412.
Cycliag Track 390. 418.
Daoia' Btatae 414.
Bag]. Cfaoreh 388. 414.
— Prot. Cemetery 418.
Feria, La 361. 412.
PoundIiBfHospital412.
Fraocisean Ooaryent,
014 409.
Qiralda 40a
Hip6dromoS90. 418.
Horae Bacea 380. 413.
Hoapleio Proriacial
Hoapital de 1* Caridad
417.
— CivU 412.
Jardines de la Puerto
de Jeras 418.
Joderia 419.
Loi^a 396.
Maearana 893.
Marina 417.
Matadero 419.
Mereado 411. 430.
Murillo's HoYiae 419.
-^ Statue 414.
Museo Arqueologieo
414.
^ ProTineial 414.
Oranges, Court of the
401.
Palacio Araobispal 401.
— del Maraud de Mon-
tiUa413.
de Paloinarea413.
— de Santelmo 418.
Paroue Maria Luisa
Parra, La 401.
Paseo de Cristina S89.
418.
— de las DeUcias 389.
418.
— del Pino 419.
— de Beeared 419.
-> de Santelmo 418.
Patio de los Naranios
401.
Penitenti«ry 419.
Physicians 383.
Picture Gallery 415.
Pictures, Exhib. of 382.
Pigeon Sbootiaf 418.
Plaza de ArgxieUes 410.
— de Atarazanas 417.
— de la ConaiitneioB
406.
index;
616
Seville :
Pliusa del Duque de
VictorU 413.
— de Oavidia 414.
— del Homo 414.
. — del Paoifloo 414.
— de San FernaBdo
. 409.
— de ToroB 388. 417.
— del Triimfo 396.
Popular Celebrations
391.
Porcelain Factory 490.
Prado de San Sebastian
391. 419.
Presidio 419.
Prison 417.
Promenades 38^.
Puente' de Isabel II.
420.
— de Triana 420.
Paerta de Cdrdoba 412,
— de la S(acarena412.
— Real 416.
— del Sol 412.
Babida Promenade 416.
Bomerias 891.
Sagrario 406.
Salon Becreativo
San Glemente 413.
— Isidore 410.
— Julian 413.
— Lorenzo 414.
— Marcos 411.
— Pedro 410.
— Salvador 409.
Santa Ana 4J^.
— Cruz 420.
— Lucia 412.
— Magdalena 414.
— Maria la Blanca 419.
— Marina 412.
Slaughter iHoaae 419.
Theatres 389. 418.
Tiro de Pichones 418.
Tobacco Factory 419.
Torre de Don Fadrique
413.
— del Oro 418.
— de la Plata 4lS.
Triana 420.
IJlloa's Statue 409.
University 411.
— Church 411.
— Library 411.
Velazquez' Statue 413.
SeviUa la Vieja 421.
— , Puerto de 459.
Sierra Elvira, BaSos de
331.
Sigena 180.
Sigiienza 164.
S.il, the 481.
Silla 268. 266.
del Obispo 318.
SUs 190.
Simancas 89.
Simat de Valldigna 271
Sitges 227.
Sobradelo 481.
Sobrarbe 161. 179.
Socuellimos 277.
Sodupe 45.
Sol, Cerro del 383. 349.
Solana, the 177.
Solares 44.
Sollana 268.
Solsona 217.
Soltraos, Cerro de 285.
Somosierra, Puerto de
154.
Sor, the 510.
Soria 155. 175. .
Sos 174.
Soto de Boma 331.
— de Bey 485.
Sotomayor 126.
Soure 564.
Souzellas 564.
Spartel, Cape 385.
Suam385.
Subejana de Alava 16.
— . de Morales 16.
Sueca 268. 266.
Sugetas. Isla 290.
Suria 213. .
Tabemes de Valldigna
271.
Xablas, Las 426.
Tadim 584.
Tafalla 175. 177.
Tagus, the 123. 276. 443.
445. 447. 452. 511. 512.
513.
Talavera la Beal 457.
— de la Beina 446.
Talayuela 446.
Tamarite da Litera 180.
Tamega, the 586. .
Tancos 511.
Tangier 381.
Tarancdn 276.
Tarazona 175.
Tardienta 179.
Tariego 18.
Tarifa 381.
Tarragona 231.
Tarrasa 212.
Tarrega 214.
Tarsis 648.
TartessuB 294.
Tauste 174.
Taveiro 664.
Teba 369.
Techas 25.
Teijeiro 482.
Tejares 472.
Tejea, Sierra 822.
Tejo, see Tagus.
— <, Entrada do 541.
Telhada 553.
Tembleque 276.
Ter, the 188. 188. 191.
Terror 156.
Teruel 181.
Tetuan 385.
Tharsis, Mines of 425.
Thomar 661.
Tibi, Pantano de 275.
Tibidabo, Monte 192. 211.
Tierra de Campos 18.
Tingis 386. 38^. 883.
Tito, Banos de 193.
Tiurana 217.
Tobarra 286.
Toboso 277.
Tocina 305. 469.
Toc6n 830.
Toledo 126.
Academia de Dibujo
144.
-^ General Mill tar 141.
AcueduotoBomano 14S.
Alcazar 150.
Amphitheatre, Boman
143.
Antequerela 142.
Arco de la Sangre de
Cristo 141.
Art Academy 144.
Ayuntamiento ii±.
Bano de la Caya 148.
Basilica de Santa Leo-
eadia 147.
Biblioteca Provincial
140.
Botanical Garden 147.
Calle del Comercio 141.
— de Sta. Isabel 141.
— Santo Tom^ 144,
145.
— de la Triperia 150.
Cdrcel Provincial 149.
Casa de Mesa 144.
Castillo de San Servan-
do 142. 151.
Cathedral 130.
City Hall 141.
Convento de los Gilitos
149.
— de Santa Isabel 141.
Corralillo de S Miguel
160.
Covachnelas 143.
Cristo de la Luz,El 143.
— de U Vega, Bl 147.
Cuesta de Carmelitos
lU.
616
INDBX.
TOLBDO :
Cueito del Carmen Cal-
smdo 141.
CutT% de Hereolea 148.
DipnUcUa ProTiacUl
148.
EscueU de ladattriaa
ArUfticM 146.
HermandM, Pritoa of
the ll».
HospiUl de Dementes
. 143.
-^ de Sm Juan Bautiita
143.
. — de SftnU Craz 141.
Haerte del Bey 14^
Indastrial Art School
146.
Jardin Botanico 147.
Juderfa 148.
Matadero Publico 147.
Herchin 143.
Meadn del SerUlano 141.
Hiradero 143.
Moaquea ISO. 143.
Hiueo Provincial 146.
Nuestra Se&<Mra de la
Gabesa, Ermita 161
148.
Nuncio, £1 142.
■ Padilla's House 144.
Palace of Peter the
Cruel 141.
Palacio Arsobispal 140.
— Faenaalida 145.
— de Oaliana 142.
Paaeo de Madrid 143.
-• de la Bosa 142.
— del Tranpito 149.
Patioa 128.
PeSa Tarpeya 149.
Piasade laConslitacidn
141.
— Mayor 149.
— Beil 149.
— de Verduraa 149.
— de Zodocov^r 141.
Plazuela del Ayunta-
miento 141. 144. 149.
— de Padilla 144.
Posada de la Sangre 141
Post Office 127. 144.
Paente de Alcantara
142.
— de San Martin 14S.
Pnerta de Alarcdnes
142.
— de Alcantara 142.
— del Cambrdn 147.
148.
-~ del Gristo de la Luz
143.
— de Doce Cantos 142.
TOLBDO :
PuertadelSoll43.1U.
— Visaf ra Aetuil 143.
Antifua 148.
Railway Station 126.
142.
Boderick*« Palace 148.
Boman Bemains 143.
San Antonio de Padua
146.
— Joan Bautiata 144.
de la Penltencia
160.
de lofl Beyes 145.
— Justo iA).
— Vicente Anejo 144.
Santa Maria In Blanoa
148.
Santiago del Arrabti
143. . .
Santo Domingo el An-
tigno 144.
el Beil 144.
— Tom^ 145.
Sinagoga del Trinsito
Slaughter House 147
Taller del Moro 149.
Theatres 127. 160.
Turbina Vargas 142.
Vega Baja i&.
Vfreen de Grricia,Cerro
de la 147. .
— del Valle, Ermita
151.
Waterworks 142..
Weapon Factory 147.
ZodocoT^r 141.
Toledo, Montes de 276.
462.
Tolono, Sierra de 17.
Tolosa 13.
Tolox, Sierra de 870.
Tona.191.
Tonyi 183.
Toral de los Vados 481.
Torcl, El 829.
Torcales, Sierra de los
828.
Tordera 192.
Tordesillas 39.
TorelW 191.
Tormes, the 472. 461.
Tornerofl 473. •
Toro 19.
Torquemada.18.
Torreblanca 247.
Torre de Bngio 510.
— del Campo 306.
— de Chipiona 426.
Torredembarr^ 230.
Torre de la Encaiiizada
290.
Torre de Estacio 290.
Torredo^jimeno 806.
Torre Oorda 434.
— la Sal 347.
Torretodonea SO.
Torre dan Vnrgena 510.
461.
Torrejdn de Ardoz 152.
^ de Vdaseo 452.
TorrdATCgs 49.
Torremcijla 460.
Torremolinos 321. 328.
TorreaneTa 801.
TorreqnebradiUa 305.
Torres Cabrern 319.
— IJoTas 612.
— Torres 251.
— Vedras 551. 540.
Torreta, La 192.
Torrevieja 283.
Torr^OS 445.
Torroz 828.
Tortosa 239.
— , C4bo de 239.
Torviscoso 446.
Totana 297.
Trafalgar, Cape 386.
Trafaria 540. 639.
Trajana 420.
Tramagal 511.
Trebn^iena 428.
Tres Puentes 16.
Treto U.
Triana 420.
Trianos 473.
Trillo 158.
Trocadero 433.
Trofa 583.
Trois Conronnes 10.
Trubia 489.
Trnjillanos 467.
TnyiUo 448. ^"^.j
Tna 5i7.
Tudela 176.
— de Ihiero 18.
— Vegdn 485.
Tuna, the 241. 262. 2».
Turd de San Jerdnimo
219. 220.
Tusal de Manises S60.
Tuy 493.
Ubeda 802.
— , Loma de 802.
Udalla 44.
Ugueray, Punta de 20.
Ujo 486.
Uldecona 246.
Ulia, Monte 10.
Ulla, the 495.
Unhos 513.
Union, La 292.
Urbion, Pico de 177. ITtS,
INDEX.
617
Urda 453.
Urgel, Seo de 217.
— , Canal de 214. 238.
— , Llano del 214. 238.
184.
Urgull, Monte 12.
Urola, the 13. 14. 19.
Urso 386.
Urum^a, the 11. 13.
Utebo 173.
Utrera 427. 387.
Vacar'303.
— , Caatillo de 303.
Vacares 369.
Vacia Madrid 101.
Vado-Ja^n 307.
VadoUano 302.
ValchilK^n 319.
Val de A^ogues 453.
Valdecarahanos , Huerta
de 276.
Val de Gristo, Convent
251.
— de Inflemo, Cerro de
302.
Valdedios 491.
Valdemoro 276.
Valdepenas 301.
Valdestillas 19.
Valenca do Minho 584,
493.
Valencia 252.
Alameda 262.
Archaeological Collec-
tion 261.
Archivo del Beino 264.
Arenas, Las 265.
Arrabal de Murviedro
262,
Art Fxhibifion 253.
Ana ■ ncia 259.
Baths 253.
Bull Ring 253. 265.
Cabanal 265.
GalledeGaball^ro8 264.
— de Col6n 263.
— de Cuarte 26).
— de QuiUem deCaatro
265.
— de Jativa 265.
— del Mar 257.
— de San Vicente 255.
— de Serranos 280.
— de Zaragoza 257.
Cathedral 257.
Citadel 262.
City Walls 255.
Golegio de Loreto 262.
— del Patriarca 256.
Corpus Christi Church
m.
Glorieta 262. .
Valih oiA :
Grao, £1 265.
Hospital Militar 262.
— Provincial 265.
James I.'b Statue 263.
Jajrdin Boti^nico 264.
— del Real 262.
Llano del Real 262.
Lonja de la Seda 263.
Mercado 263.
Miguelete, the 258.
Monte Oliveto 266.
Museo de Pinturas 260.
Nuestra Senora de los
Desamparados , Ca-
pilla 269.
Palacio Arzobispal 259.
— delaDiputaci<5n259,
— del Marques de las
Aguas 255, 256.
Plaza del Cid 257.
— del Colegio del Pa-
triarca 256.
— del Mercado 263,
— del Principe Alfonso
263.
— de la Reina 267.
— de San Francisco
255.
— de Santa Catalina
257.
— de la. Seo 259.
— de Tetuan 262.
— de Villarrasa 255.
— de Toros 253. 265.
— de Terbas 257.
Presidio 262.
— de San Agustin 265.
Puente del Mar 262.
— del Real 262.
— de la Trinidad 262.
Puerta de Cuarte 264.
— de Serranos 261.
San Agustin 265.
— Andres 256.
— Bartolom^ 260.
— Est^ban 262.
— Martin 255.
— Miguel de los Reyes,
cony. 262.
— NicoUs 264.
Santa Catalina 257.
— Cruz 260.
Santo Domingo, cony,
262
— Tom<8 257.
Santos Jaanes, Los 264.
Sea Baths 263. 266.
Seo, La 267.
Theatres 263.
Temple 262.
Tobacco Factory 263.
Torres deSe^anos 261.
Valbmcia ;
Tribunal de Aguas 259.
Trinitarios, Ch. of the
262.
University 256.
Vivd's Statue 256.
Valencia, Prov. 241.
— de Alcantara 461.
ValesquiUo 304.
Valjada 270.
Valladares 565.
Vallado 652.
Valladolid 36.
•, Province 18.
Vallbona 227.
Valldigna 271.
Valle de Figueira 612.
— Malo W. 219.
— de Prazeres 511.
Vallecas 161.
Vall^s 191.
— , Los 248.
Vallirana 228.
Vallongo 586.
— , Serra .de 686.
Vails 227. .
Vallvidrera 211.
Valmadrid. Altos de 181.
Val Roch 282.
Valsain 122.
•, Pinar de 123.
Valsequillo 304.
Valtierra 176.
Vargellas 687.
Vargem, Rio da 561.
Virzea, the 544.
Vega Magaz 480.
Veguellina 479.
Veger 435.
Velayoa 45.
Veleta, Picacho de 368.
348.
VdlezTMtflaga 828.
VeUica 41.
Vendas Ifovas 547.
Vendrell 230.
Venta de Banos 18. 39.
— de Cirdenas 302.
Ventas de Alcol^a, Las
303.
Ventorillo de la Guardia
306.
Vera 174.
Vera Cruz, Church 120.
^, Cerro de 329.
VerdA 214.
Veredas 463.
— , Puerto de 453.
Vergara 19.
Vergil 272.
Verina 489.
Vermoil 663.
Verride 558.
618
INDEX.
Veruela 174.
Vesuvlo fi87.
ViaAuguJta393.U9.465.
Vn)oru, Sierra de las 467.
Viana 178. 177.
— de Cega 19.
Vianna do CasteUo 584.
Victflvaro 152.
Vich 191.
Vicor, Sierra de 167.
Vienna 54S.
Vigo 498.
Vilabella 227.
Vilabrodona 227.
ViladecabaUs 212.
Vilagraja 214. .
Vilftjuiga 187.
Vilamalla 188.
Vilasar 198.
Vilaaeca 2S^.
Vilavert 238.
Vilches 807.
ViUabona 489.
— Cizurquil 18.
Villaeanas 277.
Villada 473.
ViUadangos 479.
Villa do Conde 683.
Villaeacusa 41.
Villa Fernando 673.
ViUafranca 14.
— de los Burros 460.
— de Cdrdoba 308.
— das Naves 673.
— del Panadas 229.
— del Vierzo 481.
ViUaFranca (de Xira)613.
ViUagarcte 469. 495.
Villalba 50. 52.
— del Alcor 423.
ViUalonga 272.
ViUaluenga 445. .
Villalambroso 473.
Villamanin 484.
Villamartin 431.
Villa Mea 5S6.
Villamiel 446.
Villamnriel deCerrato 39.
Villa Nova 548.
de FamalifSo 584.
de Bainha 513.
Villanuera del Ariseal
423.
— del Oillego 179.
— y Oeltrtl 227.
~ del Orao 265.
— de las Mines 469.
— de la Reina 903.
de la Serena 456.
~ de Sigena 180.
ViUaquiMtn 18.
VilUr 278.
— Formoso 473. 664. 573.
Villares, Llanos de los
279.
Villargordo 306.
Villarrasa 423.
Viliarreal 217.
— de Alava 16.
Villa del Bio 301
ViUarrobledo 278.
ViUarrabia 804.
Villaseca y Mocej<5n 452.
VillasequiUa 276.
Villaumbrales 4T3.
Villa Velha de B6dao 510.
511.
ViUaverde 276. 446.
— de Pontones 44.
— de Trucios 44.
Villayiciosa 491.
Villa Visosa 458.
ViUavieja 218. 637.
Villena 279.
ViUodrigo 18.
Vimbodi 238.
Vimeiro 651.
Vinaixa 238.
Vinalapd, the 241. 279.
Viiiar6z 246.
Violada, Llanos de 179.
Vrrgen de Bel^n, Ermita
-deiPrado, £rmita446.
Virtudes> Las 279.
Visillo, El 302.
Vitoria 16.
Vivens, Sierra de 275.
Viv^r 251.
Viacaya, Prov. 2. 20. 44.
— , Puente 24.
Vizella 581*
Viaeu 578.
Viznar 368.
Xabregas 519.
,|[eres de la Frontera 429.
Tanguae 51.
TfSbenes 453.
-*-, Sierra de 452.
Tcela 279.
Y^^as, Sierra de 319,
Yeles y fisquivias 452.
Yelves 609.
Yepes 276.
Yeeuas, Laguna de las
369.
Yunquera I5i.
Yuste, convent 447.
Zadorra, the 15.
Zafra 459. 426.
Z^hara 431.
Zaida, La 181.
Zakynthos 248.
Zalamea 423.
Zaldlvar 20.
Zamora 472.
Zdncara 717.
Zapardiel, the 19.
Zapateros 307.
Zaragoza, see Saragossa.
— la Vieja, Ermita 181.
ZaramiDo 45.
Zarauz 13.
Zarza, La 51.
Zegri, Venta del 306.
Zeneta 281.
Zonar, Lake of S19.
Zorita 443.
Zurnoza 20.
Zorreras, Las 50.
Zorroza 24. 45.
ZuastI 176.
Zaazo 20. 25.
Zubilburu 21.
Zubia, La 348.
Zuera 179.
Zugasfieta 20.
Zujar 804.
Zum^rraga 14. 19.
Zurgena 298.
Zurriola 10.
^r
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