The sportsman in Ireland

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THE LIBRARY

OF

THE UNIVERSITY

OF CALIFORNIA

PRESENTED BY

PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND

MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID

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THE SPORTSMAN'S LIBRARY

EDITED BY

Sir HERBERT MAXWELL, Bart., M.P.
* * *

THE SPORTSMAN'S LIBRARY.

The following volumes have already appeared :

The Life op a Fox, and The Diary of a Huntsman.
By T. Smith.

A Sporting Tour. By Col. T. Thornton.

The Sportsman in Ireland. By A Cosmopolite.

In preparation.

Reminiscences of a Huntsman. By the Honourable
Grantley Berkeley.

* My gun was now in requisition."

See f>. 99.

THE

SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

BY

A COSMOPOLITE, ^^.*i*^

A NEW EDITION
WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY P. CHENEVIX TRENCH

EDWARD ARNOLD

^uilisfjer to tfje CnlJia ©fKce
LONDON NEW YORK

37 BEDFORD STREET 70 FIFTH AVENUE

1897

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37^

INTRODUCTION

This volume, which has been selected to form the third in the
" Sportsman's Library,'' is a condensed edition of a work pub-
lished in two volumes in 1840. Its authorship has been the
occasion of a singular blunder. It is attributed by Gushing in
his Dicticmary of Initials and Pseudonyms (New York, 1885) to
John Dix, afterwards Ross. This writer was denounced by Mr.
Moy Thomas in the Athenceum (5th December 1857, and 23rd
January 1858) as an unscrupulous literary forger, and his pre-
tensions were challenged further in Notes and Queries (4th series,
ix. 294, 365 ; x. 55). Among a number of pseudonyms, Dix or
Ross wrote under that of " A Cosmopolitan," which doubtless
led Mr. Gushing to confound him with " A Gosmopolite." Mr.
Frederic Fane, of Moyles Gourt, Ringwood, informs me that
"Cosmopolite" was really Serjeant Allen, as he believes of the
Irish Bar.

Of the book Mr. Fane adds : " It gave such a delightful
description of the then wilds of Kerry, and especially of Water-
ville and the Black water of that county, that I at once betook
myself to that part of Ireland, to which I have been faithful
now for more than fifty years, rarely missing, year by year, a
sojourn in the West — to me a Paradise."

There is a good deal in the original edition unsuitable to
the character of the present series, in which it is intended to
reproduce only the best sporting literature of the past. In his

lwai*.?:547

vi THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

preface the author had not a word to say about the varied
scenes of fishing and shooting which he describes with such
admirable vivacity ; he dwelt only on political and ecclesiastical
questions of a highly controversial character, and on the remedies
which he considered desirable in the interests of the people.
This preface, therefore, has not been reprinted in preparing
a new edition, and those chapters and passages dealing with
political and ecclesiastical controversy have been left out also.

It has been a matter of greater regret that some chapters
at the end of the second volume, describing Cosmopolite's
" Summer Route through the Highlands of Scotland," have had
to be sacrificed, in order to bring the work within the scope of
a single volume. The only part of the Highlands which he
traversed was the region lying between Loch Fyne and Loch
Lomond, and the reader may rest assured that the best of the
author's exploits took place in Ireland. It is hoped that Mr.
Trench's drawings will help to give a vivid impression of Irish
sport as it was sixty years ago. The illustrations in the original
edition were no more than poor, with the exception of two
which have been reproduced for the present one (pp. 1 and 110).

The scheme of Cosmopolite's tour in Ireland was somewhat
similar to that undertaken by Colonel Thornton in Scotland
fifty years previously, but the scale of his preparations was very
different from that of the opulent Yorkshireman. It will be seen,
too, that whereas Colonel Thornton, when he left his own camp,
did so to pay visits to the various county magnates living near
his route. Cosmopolite, on the other hand, contented himself
with such accommodation as he could find in humble inns and
farmhouses, varied occasionally by hospitality freely offered by
the poorer gentry and clergy of the west.

From a modem point of view the use of the " incomparable
bait," described on p. 28, is exceedingly reprehensible ; but at
that time the use of salmon -roe had not been declared illegal,
and it is curious that Cosmopolite claims to have been the first
to make its dangerous attractions known to Irish anglers.

INTRODUCTION vii

The natural advantages offered by Ireland to the salmon
and trout angler are almost incomparable — quite so, if easy
access and a moderate climate are taken into account. Com-
pared with other parts of the United Kingdom the extent of
naturally g'ood fishing water is in far greater proportion than in
England, Scotland, or Wales. Irish lakes and streams produce,
as a rule, trout of far greater weight and of finer quality than
those of the sister island ; while Irish rivers are as favourable
for salmon and sea trout as those of any country in the world.
On the other hand, it must be confessed that in no other
country have the angling resources suffered more grievously from
mismanagement, excessive net-fishing, and river pollution. In
the last-named respect, the general absence of manufactures
might be supposed to save the fisheries from the lamentable
devastation which has overtaken so many fair streams in northern
England and Scotland ; but this has been fully balanced by the
effects of the pernicious habit of steeping flax, whereby hundreds
of miles of admirable trout-fishing has been totally destroyed.
When it is considered what enormous rents men are willing to
pay for good fishing, surely it must be reckoned worthy the
attention both of the legislature and of private owners to take
measures for the restoration of such an abundant source of
wealth. It has been known for long that good salmon angling
would command plenty of customers ; but the later refinements
of trout-fishing, especially the use of the dry fly, have attracted
great numbers of people to a sport which fifty years ago nobody
thought of paying for. Many of the Irish trout streams, if
they got fair play and were protected from flax pollution, cross-
lines, and other destructive practices, would produce trout
superior to and more numerous than those of the southern
English chalk streams. As a rule, these streams are admirably
suited to dry fly fishing.

Some politicians may consider such a subject as too trivial
for their attention ; others may regard with indifference, or even
with prejudice, anything that, in their view, would only serve to

viii THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

put money into the pockets of Irish landlords. But that would
be only a small part of the effect of the restoration of Irish
angling waters. Anglers must live as well as other people, and
pay for their living. It is true that the owners of lakes and
streams would benefit in the first instance, just as they have
done in Scotland by the development of the sporting resources
of that country. But the benefit does not stop with the land-
lords ; it would be impossible to calculate to what extent the
poorest districts in Scotland have been enriched by the presence,
year after year, of wealthy strangers attracted thither by sport.
One other consideration remains. Great Britain is a vast work-
shop, working at high pressure ; the playgrounds are limited in
extent, though the numbers of those for whom healthy recrea-
tion is indispensable are annually increasing. For one angler of
thirty years ago there are it would be hard to say how many
now. The advantage of restoring to Ireland the qualities she
naturally possesses of entertaining anglers, would be a mutual
boon to the two countries ; and the man, be he statesman or
sportsman, who gives the movement a successful start, would
deserve the gratitude of workers in the British hive, not less
than of the struggling population of poor Ireland.

HERBERT MAXWELL.

MONREITH, 1897.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I

The Sportsman's Resolve — The Slow Coach — The Irish Packet — Passengers
— Irish Family — View of Ireland — The British Legioner — His History
— The Mutiny — The Spokesman — The Punishment — The Return —
Arrival in London — The Stipendiary Magistrate — Arrival at Cork —
Appearance of the Coast — Dreary Prospect to some . Page 1

CHAPTER II

Cork — The Harbour — Splendour and Misery — Imperial Hotel — High
Charges — The Assizes — Irish Eloquence — Want of Dignity and
Decorum — Irish Judges and Counsel — An Irish Case — Mike and the
Cows — Theatre at Cork — The Castle Spectre — An Acting Manager —
An Evening Party — Punch-drinking — Three-Card Loo and the Ladies
— Female Talent and Accomplishments — Beauty of the Women —
Advice to Sportsmen — Departure from Cork . . Page 12

CHAPTER HI

Start from Cork — Wild Character of the Country — An Irish Coachman
— Sporting Prospects — Warning to Improvers — Pike versus Salmon
— Arrival at Macroom — Ominous Demonstrations — A False Alarm —
Inn Accommodations — An Irish Waiter — Extravagant Charges —
Poverty and Desolation — ^Taste for Mud — Commencement of Opera-
tions— A Native Sportsman — Irish Blarney — Directions for Trolling
—Incomparable Bait ..... Page 20

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

CHAPTER IV

Advice to Sportsmen — Mode of Conveyance — An Irish Pony and his Food
— Delight of the First Cast — Failure and Success — Irish Astonishment
— An Irish Sign — Native Hospitality — A Sportsman's Dinner —
Natural Magic — Lake Inchgeelah — Directions for Fishing in this
Lake — Hints to Anglers and Sportsmen in general — Character of the
Kerry Peasantry — An Invitation to Dinner — Irish Servants — An Odd
Establishment — An Irish Kitchen — Irish Hospitality — Wine and the
Ladies — Whiskey and the Gentlemen — An Irish Dinner Party — The
Sporting Major — Longbow-ism — An Irish Angler's Exploit — Sporting
Extraordinary — A Dance— Prospective Sport with the Major

Page 29

CHAPTER V

Characteristic Scenery — Encampment of the Whitefeet Rebels — Romantic
Escapes and Dangers of an Irish Gentleman — Irish Hospitality — The
Lake of Inchgeelah — Delicious Treat — Difficult Road — Inn of the
Desert — Splendid View — Irish Ingenuity — History of an Irish Fisher-
man— His Devoted Affection — Heroic Self-devotion — Death of his
Betrothed — His Filial Affection — Character of the Irish Peasantry —
Sporting renewed — A Double Bite — Start for Killarney — The River
Flesk — Noble View — Coltsman Castle — Sporting Notices — Killarney
— A Perfect Gentleman ! — Ill-effects of English Generosity on the
Poor of Killarney ...... Page 41

CHAPTER VI

Arrival at Killarney — Strange Costume — Street Annoyances and Beggars
— Character of the Inhabitants of Killarney — Lord Kenmare and the
Lakes — Inn Accommodation — Doherty, the Fly-maker — The Lions of
the Lakes — ^The Major — Impudence and Imposition — Advantage of
Private Lodgings — Price of Provisions — Impositions of Innkeepers —
Hints to Anglers at Killarney — ^The Major's Narrative — Hoaxing — A
Fighting Tailor — ^The Major's Revenge . . . Page 63

CONTENTS

CHAPTER VII

First Day on the Lake — Ross Castle — Splendid View — Accidental Sport —
A Disappointment — The Evil of Sight-gazing — Scarcity of Salmon in
the Lakes — Island of Innisfallen — An Impromptu Breakfast — Beauties
of the Island — The Monastery — Coasting — Famous Sport — The
Eagle's Nest — Extraordinary Echoes — The Pass — The Lower Lake —
Residence of Mr. Hyde, Rector of Killarney — Trouting — Directions
for Bait — How to astonish the Natives — Wonderful success of Salmon-
roe — Lord Kenmare's Cottage — An Angler's Dinner — Turk Lake —
Its Monster Trout — Angling Exploit of Lady Headley — The Major in
his Glory — Enormous Trout — More Hints to Sportsmen at Killarney

Page 62

CHAPTER VIII

The Rivers — Residences of James and John O'Connell — Lord Kenmare —
The Gap of Dunloe — Major Mahony — Beaufort Bridge — Residence
of Mr. MuUins, Member for Kerry — The River Laune — Excellent
Sport — Izaak Walton — The Major incredulous — Sporting extraordinary
— A Cure for Everything — Killarney Scandal — Lord Headley — The
Irish Agents — A Stag-Hunt in the Lake — Extraordinary Scene of
Irish Jollity — Timber -Hunting in the Bogs — Extinct Animals —
Unpopularity of Lord Kenmare — Reasons for it — Beauties and Merits
of Killarney as a Watering Place .... Page 74

CHAPTER IX

Kenmare — Blackwater — Liberality of the Rev. D. M . — Irish Cunning

and Roguery — O'Rourke, the Salmon-Poacher — Story of O'Rourke
and the Magistrate — Gaffing at the Falls — The Poacher in Exile — The
Flood — Singular Habits of the Salmon — Ascent of the Hills — A
Sudden Storm, and its consequences — Perils and Escapes — Fatal
Catastrophe at Clydah — The whole of the Cattle and Inhabitants
destroyed by a Flood ..... Page 82

xii THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

CHAPTER X

Mountaineer — Harvest-Hunters — Kerry Agents — Influence of the
Catholic Clergy — Causes of that Influence — Safe Travelling in
Ireland — Temper of the Irish Peasantry — Means for Improving their
Condition — Abundance of Wild Fowl — The Secret — Return to
Killarney — Kellorglin — Lake Carraght — Wales's Inn — Fishery on the
Carraght River — Lob-Trout — Fishing in Lake Carraght — Disappoint-
ment — Seal-Shooting — Castlemaine Bay — Birthplace of Daniel
O'Connell — Arrival at Cahirciveen . . . Page 91

CHAPTER XI

Cahirciveen — Comfoi-table Inn — John O'Connell — Portrait of the
Liberator — Mountain Hunting — A Sportsman's Breakfast — The Mass
— State of Crime in Kerry — Party Feuds — The Lawlors and Cooleens
— A Smasher — The River Inny — W^aterville Lake — Courtesy of
Mr. Butler — Live Lamb for Dinner — Produce of the Weirs — A
Deathbed Scene ...... Page 113

CHAPTER XII

Enormous Eagle — Fishing in Waterville Lake — Morning - Breakfast —
Island Burial-Ground — Funeral — A New Friend — The White Strand —
Anecdote of the Duke of Wellington — Round Tower— Mullet-fishing
— An Extempore Fishing Yacht — ^The Knight of Kerry — Colony of
Fishermen — Fishing Arrangements — A Night's Fishing — An Un-
expected Prize — Paddy Shea — The Perfection of Sport — A Great Haul
— Cormorant Soup — Threatening Weather — Irish Superstition — A
Storm— Courage of the Irish Fishermen — Dangers and Escapes — A
Dance — An Event — Dangers of the Irish Coast — Frightful Scene of
Shipwreck — A suspicious Visit — Irish Smugglers . . Page 127

CONTENTS xiii

CHAPTER XIII

Visit to Waterville — New Mode of Angling — Mistake about the Potato
Diet of the Irish — Cobbett right as to its Mischievous Effects— Drive
to Tralee — Miserable State of the Peasantry — Prevalence of Scrofula
and Consumption — Fine Mountain Scenery — Castlemaine — The River
—The White Trout— The Lob Trout— Fine Shooting Station for Sea-
Fowl and Grouse — Sporting Exciseman — Folly and Rapacity of Irish
Landlords — The Surgeon's Tale — The Murderers — A Mysterious
Character — Irish Court of Justice — The Trial — The Defence — The
Cross-Examination — The Verdict — The Mystery explained — Three
pleasant Weeks — O'Connell as a Landlord — His Occupation at Derry-
nane — His Devotion to the Peasantry — The Dancing-Master in Ireland
— Advantages of Ireland over the Continent — Cheapness and Security
of the Living — Farewell to Cahirciveen — Departure for Dingle — Wild-
Fowl Shooting — Fishing at Dingle — Hospitality of the Resident Gentry
— Trout-fishing and Grouse-shooting — Causes and Remedy of Irish
Discontent — An Irish Wake — The Irish Howl — A Victim of the
Good People "—A Fairy Tale .... Page 148

if

CHAPTER XIV

To the Shannon — Mountain Scenery — Profusion of Wild Fowl and Hares
— Listowel — Extempore Dinner — Cheap Travelling — Excellent Sport
— Primitive Cooking — Mill Street— Extraordinary Cheapness of Living
— Extreme Wretchedness of the Inhabitants — First View of the Queen
of Irish Rivers, the Shannon — Athlone — Ballinasloe Fair — Onions and
Eels — Athlone Bridge — Lough Ree — The Shannon — Splendid Tract of
Country — Suitable Harbour for Shipping . . . Page 169

CHAPTER XV

Galway— Mr. Keogh— Fishing in Lough Corrib— First Failure of the
Infallible Bait— Its Causes— A New Acquaintance— The Monastery—

xiv THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

Claddagh — Its Antiquity — Forms of Marriage — Dress of the Females
— Respect paid to the Dead — Prevalence of the Cholera — Benevolence
of the Rev. Father Fay — Protestants and Catholics — History of James
Lynch Fitzstephen^ the Mayor of Galway . . . Page 179

CHAPTER XVI

Fishing in Lough Corrib— Enormous Trout — The Weirs — Perch and Pike
— Productiveness of the Weirs — Arrival of the Major — Difficulty of
getting a Fishing-Boat — Independence of the Fishermen — Herring
Fishery — ^The Mayor of the Claddagh — The Prior — The Priesthood —
Preparations for Sport ..... Page 192

CHAPTER XVII

Dress of a Sportsman — Embarkation — Wild -Fowl — Appearance of a
Grampus — A Haul — The Conger and Dog-fish — The Herring —
" Heads, heads, nothing but heads ! " — Accident to the Major — A
Splendid Halibut — ^A Sea-Dinner — Islands of Arran — Costume of the
Arran Peasantry — Cordial Reception — A Dance — A Beauty — Amorous
Propensity of the Major — Smuggling — Coast of Connemara — Mag-
nificent Scenery — Return to Galway . . . Page 201

CHAPTER XVIII

Superstition of the Fishermen — Execution of Lynch for the Murder of
his Wife — General Sympathy for the Murderer — The Priest — His

Disclosure of the Circumstances of the Murder — Villainy of R

Page 215

CHAPTER XIX

Departure from Galway — Coasting — The Coal-Fish, or Bace — Aground
on Roundstone Flats — The Harbour — Protestant Clergyman — The
Major's Reminiscences in America — Catching a Sea-Serpent with a
Shoe ....... Page 226

CONTENTS XV

CHAPTER XX

Connemara — Serving a Writ — Mr. Martin's Permission to Fish — Rags^
Rags, everywhere Rags ! — Character of the Inhabitants — Departure —
Bad Roads — Desolation of Connemara — Cong — The Subterranean
River and the Lady White Trout — Mountain Accommodation — A
Strange Adventure in the Gorge — Its Satisfactory Result — Bog River
Fishing — The Wilds of Lough Mask — The Desert Lands and their
Proprietors — The Major's Run and Catastrophe — The Prize Page 234

CHAPTER XXI

The Friar's Visit— The Monster of the Mountains— The Mystery Solved—
The Whiskey Store — The Unparliamentary — Traversing a Bog —
Process of Grabbling — A Brood of Otters — Castlebar — Wretched State
of the Inhabitants — Annual Subscriptions — Ludicrous Adventure of
Owen — Following a Salmon — Decency on Entering a Town Page 262

CHAPTER XXII

A Curse against Preserves — Reasons for condemning them — A Slap at the
Peers — Apology and Reconciliation — An Irish Tory — After-Dinner
Argument on Popular Education — Challenge — Preparations for a
Meeting — Satisfactory Arrangement — An Old Acquaintance — The
Spanish Legioner — His Last Trip — The Shipwreck — How to Qualify
for Exciseman — Belfast — Manufactures at Belfast — Last Evening in
Ireland — Leave-taking ..... Page 283

ILLUSTRATIONS

'^ My Gun was now in Requisition "

CONNEMARA — BaLLINAHINCH

"Car, your Honour?" . ' .

^'Here I Purchased my Tackle"

^^WiTH SOME Difficulty we Landed him"

"The Wind blew — the Torrents descended"

"A Pike had taken my Trout"

^■^ Among thebi was one Doherty"

^^Here_, indeed, the Major was Great"

The River Laune

" I raised him in my Arms " .

" Freed from Restraint, we saw him once more "

The Birthplace op O'Connell .

"The Cry of the Lad Warns them to Watch"

Night Sport .....

^^GooD Cooking, any way" . , . .

Prepared for a Night Out

'^1 WAS Close to the Bridge" .

Leaving the Claddagh ....

The Island Dance . .

An Irish Street Piper . . . .

"I Shook off the Butt"

^'The Monster Floundered on the Shore" .

"I Looked at the Major"

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THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

CHAPTER I

The Sportsman's Resolve — The Slow Coach — The Irish Packet — Passengers
— Irish Family — View of Ireland — The British Legioner — His History
— The Mutiny — The Spokesman — The Punishment — The Return —
Arrival in London — The Stipendiary Magistrate — Arrival at Cork —
Appearance of the Coast — Dreary Prospect to some.

Who that has heard of the resources and beauties of the
Emerald Isle — who that has listened to the torrents of abuse
levelled against those who are at once termed her patriots and
her destroyers, her liberators and enslavers — who that has
heard of the trackless mountains, the rushing torrents, the
splendid rivers unsullied by a line, or of the wild birds that
are undisturbed on her desolate coasts ; the honest generosity
of character, the hospitable feelings, yet, albeit, the murderous
villany, the bloodthirsty relentlessness of her children — who
that has only Jieard of all these, but will determine at once to
be convinced of the truth or falsehood of the accounts put
forth — will at once seize his rod and his gun, and, delivering
himself up to fortune, make his journey unite the pleasure of
wild sports with the philosophy of statistical observation ?

I, at all events, will for one ; and, ere I revisit the artificial
shore of my birth, the Irish as they are, and not as political
partisans would paint them, shall be known to me.

2 , THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

My preparations were simple ; and let me entreat all those
who follow me to make their own so.

In the first place, let no London fly or rod maker impose
on them by the delicate manufacture of their wares, but by
all means let the gun -maker have his chance; take a good
double-barrel, powder, and casts for bullets, and leave the rest
to fortune and my direction ; also a good woollen suit, one
change for dress, a mackintosh, a well -strapped wallet — for
there is much in its being well strapped.

These are all that can be required by or desirable to those
who would really make the tour of a sportsman through Ireland.
Every desirable comfort will follow in its proper place ; and it
should not be forgotten that the greatest inconvenience of travel-
ling is the travelling with too many conveniences. But, as I hate
people who would have to make their arrangements all tending
inevitably to embarrass their progress and restrict their indepen-
dence, we will suppose the usual horn -blowing has taken place,
the usual number of now despised coachmen have been fee''d,
and that we find ourselves half asleep and half awake at Bristol.

We judge of the distance of places by the time consumed
in reaching them ; in fact, time is distance, and Bristol is a
heavy journey. Bristol itself is a sort of a slozv coach. It has,
by its paltry efforts at inordinate gain in the harbour dues,
wrapped itself up in a dignified independence, while all other
ports have surpassed its accommodations, and withdrawn its
trade. Even the Great Western does not help it : we must still
be bugled down, and cramped in foiu' insides. But we are there.

And this is the Irish packet ? you need not answer — I
perceive it is. Those shoeless wretches, shivering under the
March blasts, and crouching midst the packages for a momentary
protection — the surly officers who have just presented them
with their Jree passage to their native land ; the hopeless gaze
of that suffering mother, who deprives herself of her ragged
shawl that she may shelter her still more suffering infant ; all
these proclaim the destination of the vessel. Midst the hoarse

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 3

orders of the bluff commander she moves in stately grandeur
down the river, and carries with her the farewells, the hopes,
the happiness of many !

It is needless to describe the Clifton Rocks. I perceive the
pencils of the lady passengers are at work, while the obsequious
gentlemen surrounding them gaze on the performances, and
admire the wonders of nature, but more those of art.

The massive rocks of the extended scene give rise to general
hilarity, and the ever -varying range on each side calls forth
the admiration of the Creator^s works.

But the sea-breeze now breaks on us. The hitherto stately
vessel yields to the coming tide. Now shawls and cloaks are
in requisition, and the sketches are left for future finishing
and future encomiums. Less is heard of the beauty of sur-
rounding objects, and more of personal comfort.

The cabin is sought by some, where fires, books, and all
the comforts which the gaudy packet can afford, are at hand.
The sea rises — the scudding squalls dash over the angry spray
— there is more silence and more self among the previously gay
and joyous crowd on the front deck; each looks to himself,
while the storm increases, and the rains descend.

Let us survey the deck. Not one of the many, now wrapped
in all the comforts which art can supply, has condescended to
do so. Each passenger has selected his bed, and made his
inquiries for dinner ; but where is to be your bed — where your
dinner, ye homeless, hapless wanderers — cursed in your birth-
place— whose crime is that you are the offspring of a doomed
land ! a land, beauteous to the eye, fertile in its resources, yet
whose shipless harbours yawn in hospitality without a guest—
upon whose shores the wild sea howls, and the angry billows
alone unite to break the silence of a gloomy solitude !

See that father and mother, with their helpless race of
children ; behold them shivering in the bleak March blast, and
now and then submitting to the spray which dashes over their
half- covered limbs! That child, squalid and bare, crouching

4 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

beneath the mother's scanty rags ; behold her ! She is human —
those blue eyes seem to speak intelligence ; she looks wistfully,
beseechingly, yet modestly. It is for food she asks. Inquire
their little history: it is the history of all. That father is
strong, active, and not deficient in intelligence. You see he
does not want feeling for those dependent on him ; he has
covered the children with his grey frieze coat, and bears the
falling rain with a manly defiance. Unable to discharge the
heavy imposts of his landlord and the tithe, he has been
expatriated ; he has sought what he imagined was the golden
land ; he has sought the English coast. Prejudice and the
poor-laws have been his unconquerable foes. Employment was
nowhere to be found ; and, after a year's travelling from place
to place, during which the hedge and the sheep hovel have been
his only covering, and the covering of his wife and little ones,
he has at length been found guilty of being destitute, and
condemned to — his native country. The surly officer, whom
you saw speaking to him at Bristol, was employed to ship him
and his family safely off by the packet. Their sea-store was
supplied, their passage was paid. The bundle, which the
enduring woman has hanging from her arm, contains potatoes ;
they have been already cooked, and you will see the father
frequently distributing a portion among his trembling children —
God help them ! But their native land is now in sight. A
joyous exclamation is heard among some — it is among the cabin
passengers. Each runs to gain a glimpse of land — of Ireland —
the place of our destination.

All are pleased, except only the miserable family whose
patient endurance of the long sea passage, whose hunger the
lowest of human food has barely appeased; — from them, and
those who surround them, no sound of delight is heard. The
countenance of the oppressed father, as he shiveringly looks
down upon his children, is marked by a stern misery; — his
native land is indifferent to his view ; it almost excites horror.
For him, alas ! and his, no home is there prepared ; — he has no

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 5

spot whereon to lie ! no store, from which the wants of his little
ones shall be supplied ! To him, his native shores present only
the barren rocks of desolation and despair.

The morning broke ; and who that has voyaged by steam or
coach does not shrink at the remembrance of the peeping morn
of March ? The face of the ocean presents a cold cheerlessness,
which even the sluggish sunrise does not dispel ; its rays seem
rather to render still more visible the ravages of watchfulness or
inebriety. Every face is without a smile; the features are
paralysed; even the mind is benumbed and depressed, and
misery looks still more miserable.

The lower deck of the steamer was the parade of those who
had known no other couch during the night. The wretched
family I had before observed were still crouching under the
packages ; the father standing, in silent suffering, over them !

Among these involuntary watchers I observed a sprightly
and good-looking young man, whose nether person a pair of
soldier's duck trowsers, and whose upper man a simple white
flannel jacket protected from the searching cold of the breaking
morning. A foraging cap was stuck a la militaire on one side
of his head. He was determinedly energetic in his promenade,
and bore the inconvenience of his slight covering and the
absence of all comfort with a cheerful philosophy. I could not
but admire his independent and erect form ; and, on entering
into conversation with him, I soon found that he had not from
habit braved so well the cold of the past night. On the
contrary, he assured me that he had felt it severely, as he had
but lately arrived from a warmer climate, and did not remember
the necessity of thicker clothing. Perhaps if his attention had
been directed to the probable severity of the night, and the
prudence of provision against it, it might not have made much
difference in his arrangements, as he happened just then to be
without one farthing in the world, or a single additional
garment. The good humour with which he made this reply
encouraged me to pursue my inquiries as to his history.

6 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

" I was tolerably well born, your honour, though I could not
live without work. I did work till I found rent too high and
produce too small to get on with. I was ' noticed ** ; that is,
served with tithe process for my little ground ; and, rather than
submit to the extortionate villain who had hired the tithes of
the clergyman, whom I had never seen, and who indeed lived
somewhere in France, I sold what little I possessed and went to
Dublin. Here I found instant employment offered me, which
required me to assist the Queen of Spain, under General Evans.
The terms were easily settled, as they were at first all on my
own side. We were promised ten pounds on our arrival in
Spain — a fortune in my own country ; and, in addition to this
liberal donation, there was the prospect of promotion and other
advantages. Of course, I and the rest never doubted but that
all these promises would be realised ; and with light hearts,
little clothes, and no money, to the number of fifty, we were
shipped from Kingstown.

" Our passage was rough, and rougher the fare, — the captain
of the transport declaring that he had no allowance for pro-
visions on our account ; or, at least, that he doubted whether he
should be ever paid for any. He exhorted us therefore to be
content, and consider ourselves happy in the enjoyment of the
meagre fare his liberality allowed. I believe all this to have
been false — that the captain had received for our provisions a
considerable sum ; but thinking, as I found many have since,
not even excepting your London magistrates, that our employ-
ment was altogether illegal, he would be justified in cheating us
to any extent short of absolute starvation.

" On our arrival in Spain, we found ourselves just in time to
be sent on picquet duty. Arms were thrown on our shoulders ; —
those who had jackets were well off; as the midnight air, acting
on empty and sea-sick stomachs, as well as on the uncovered skin,
is by no means calculated to awaken the soul to deeds of heroism.

" However, at four in the morning we were relieved, and
found good straw in an outhouse prepared for our reception.

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 7

In the morning, the jacket I now wear, and these trowsers (they
are rather thin) were presented to me, with fourpence for my
day's rations. I now inquired for my ten pounds bounty. This,
I was assured, had been expended for my benefit — that is, it had
been appHed to the purchase of my clothing and arms ; — and as,
without these, a soldier is nothing, nor likely to obtain promo-
tion, no objection could be made to so wise, just, and judicious
an outlay.

"Our piece of hardest service was the taking a fort, well
fortified by Don Carlos; and, after a severe battle, we were
successful. Several of my fellow recruits fell in this terrible
engagement. The storming lasted several hours, and, during
its continuance, we who were fresh found ourselves always in
the front.

" At last, on returning to the town where our quarters were
assigned, myself and my companions went (about thirty of us
remaining) to the superior officer ; and, without the least inten-
tion of giving offence or of breaking discipline, inquired for our
rations and pay. We were stopped by a serjeant, who seemed
to have been well enough fed. He told us that our conduct was
disorderly — that our rations and pay were the same, and would
continue the same, as the Spanish regiments engaged. Now
this pay was fourpence per day, instead of eightpence, which we
had bargained for on enlistment at Dublin. We returned to
our quarters, and one and all agreed to lay down our arms.

" I was unfortunate — for my comrades fixed upon me, being
the most learned of the party, as spokesman on the occasion.
Not that they lacked eloquence when they spoke of their in-
dignation at the state of hunger and destitution into which we
had been so unjustly deluded; — nor did they fail to promise
that in all I should say on these subjects they would with life
stand by me. I don't know how it is — but I somehow think
that being spokesman, though a post of honour at the time,
does not always bring any very great advantage after the
occasion has passed by and the object settled.

8 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

'' Somehow, I think, one is likely to get into scrapes by being
made head man. At all events, I think it is so in the army,
and especially that under the English General in Spain ; for I
found that my comrades, ibeing chiefly of the lowest order of
poor fellows, soon began to perceive what they did not perceive
when they elected me spokesman — that fourpence was better
than nothing. Certain it is, they at once yielded to the per-
suasions of some of the officers ; while I and ten others, being
seized and manacled by a guard of our own corps, those who
had been the loudest among us in their complaints and protesta-
tions of perseverance in their demands were conveyed to prison.

"Prison in England is not much; — ^it affords comfortable
lodging, good air, and something to eat. In fact, to us Irishmen
an English prison is a tolerable asylum. But a prison in Spain
is a different matter altogether. We were put into cellars, one
quart of meal and water was our food, no covering of any kind,
and nothing but the indulgence of the jailor afforded us a little
straw.

" In this plight were we left for a whole week ; till, perhaps,
from the representation of the jailor, who must have perceived
we could not last long in that condition, we were visited by a
Spanish officer who spoke English ; and who came, he said, from
her most Christian Majesty the Queen. He was very well in-
structed in English. He assured us (a fact we were before
ignorant of) that we haxi been guilty of so enormous a crime
that nothing but our lives could atone for it ; but that, in case
we were disposed to make a full confession of our sins, and
humbly sue to her Majesty for pardon, she might be induced to
extend mercy to us.

" Hereupon I told him, without difficulty or hesitation (at
that moment getting a peep, through the door which was open,
of the beautiful daylight, and also of some black bread which
had been brought by the officer's attendant), that, on behalf of
myself and fellow- sufferers, I would make any apology her
Majesty pleased ; and that, if she would give us something to

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 9

eat, and a chance of getting home to our native island, there
was no kind of sorrow and repentance which should stop us
from either.

" We were liberated, and I was not long in finding that the
extraordinary grace of her Majesty, and the kind non-inter-
ference of the English Commander, who never appeared in the
business, were owing to the exertions of the British Consul, who
had peremptorily demanded our discharge. This we learned
from the English Consul himself, who, on our discharge, sent for
us, expressed his commiseration at the plight we were in, and
regretted his inability farther to relieve us than in giving us
fourpence each, and commending us to a merchant vessel, the
captain of which gladly took us to work our passage home.

"I need say nothing of our voyage. We landed on the
southern coast of England, and were not long in making our
way to London, where we had been informed our claims would
be heard. We had too much pride to beg ; though, God
knows, we needed all things; but, in our walk (about fifty
miles) we were upheld with the hope that, by application to the
Spanish Minister, we should obtain our arrears of pay. Many
a morning saw us at his door ; but every one of them saw us
also sent off by his servant, who at last threatened prison and
the police. We were still soldiers, and had the pride of soldiers ;
so we would no longer run that risk, though we had been four
days without either food or shelter. I suppose our appearance
— you see I am not too corpulent now — attracted attention,
and a benevolent gentleman advised us forthwith to prefer our
demands on the Spanish Ambassador, before a magistrate ; and
he was kind enough to direct us where to go. We now surely
thought all was right — that we should be relieved and redressed.
We marched in good order into a dark room, where two elderly
gentlemen with bald heads were very comfortably seated. It
was a police office. The magistrates were not such as we have
in Ireland — gentlemen appointed to do what they please with
the poor, and who send any man to jail because he is a Catholic ;

10 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

— they were regularly paid magistrates who heard our story.
After I had finished (for I was still spokesman), I was accosted
in a very angry manner by the most elderly of the two gentle-
men.— ' What right had you in Spain ? — ^you had no business to
enlist — it was wholly illegal, and we will do nothing for such
fellows but this : send you to the treadmill as rogues and
vagabonds. Officer, if you find any of these fellows in the open
air, after night, take them into custody, and I will commit them
all — turn them out ! ' ""

I could not believe that such language to a band of injured,
starving, and unoffending men could have been used by a
London magistrate. The very helpless condition of these poor
men would and ought, as I imagined, to have forbidden the
gross perversion of the law against them, if humanity had no
share in the decision. My supposition was ill-founded ; for, on
afterwards consulting the newspapers, I found that this language
had been used — had been passed over without comment — and
that the paid perverter of law was still an officer of the executive !

He continued : " I, last night, reached Bristol, much reduced
in pride, as I made no scruple of begging my way. I slept in
an outhouse, not being desirous of the treadmill, which would
have been my destination if found in the streets. I, yesterday,
got a pass from the mayor to my own country, having given a
solemn promise never again to return to the free and hospitable
shores of England. I have done with being spokesman, and
return to Ireland still poorer than I left it. Those are the
shores of a land I love, but in which I have no home ! What I
can have to do with that land, or that land with me, I know
not ; — thither the English law sends me, and there I suppose I
must dwell, if a life of beggary be dwelling. No landlord will
receive me on his estate — no farmer employ me — for they are
both overburthened already ; and to whatsoever district I shall
direct my steps, the answer will still be — ' We cannot support
our own people — go to your native town "* — Sir, we are too many,
or have too little to do.*"

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 11

With the advance of day came the splendid views of coast
scenery which everywhere distinguish Ireland, and especially the
entrance to the Cove of Cork. Iron-bound as this coast is, yet
the avenues which here and there are observable between the
abrupt and occasionally terrific rocks of varied hues, heightened
by the glare of the sun, present patches of that deeply verdant
surface, the characteristic of the beauteous isle ; and as the rapid
movement of the well-appointed vessel continues to vary the
position, new beauties are as continually opening.

The dashing and roaring of the sea, against the dark and
hollow masses that form the entrance to the Cove, are distinctly
heard ; and now, the suddenly smooth water informs us that we
have entered the haven ; while the banks on each side, and the
rock itself which opposes its noble front to the angry ocean,
become speckled with habitations as it were of a fairy land,
each spot tipped with the brilliancy of the sun.

Hundreds of boats are seen pressing all canvas towards the
vessel. The coast is lined with inhabitants, all anxious to know
what the majestic mass now slowly forcing her way up the
shallow river contains. Fathers for their children — children for
their homes — are panting with expectation and long-anticipated
happiness ; and I must add, there are the multiplied sighs of
wretches who have nought but the dreary prospect of ending
their few remaining days in the land which gave birth to them
and their uninterrupted soitows.

CHAPTER II

Cork — The Harbour — Splendour and Misery — Imperial Hotel — High
Charges — The Assizes — Irish Eloquence — Want of Dignity and
Decorum — Irish Judges and Counsel — An Irish Case — Mike and the
Cows — Theatre at Cork — The Castle Spectre — An Acting Manager —
An Evening Party — Punch-drinking — Three-Card Loo and the Ladies
— Female Talent and Accomplishments — Beauty of the Women —
Advice to Sportsmen— Departure from Cork.

" Car, your honour, car ? here ! here is a car, your honour.
Oh, don't be after listening to Murdock, there ! Out of the
way, ye spalpeen — sure, didn''t the gentleman spake to me first ?
that's my fare, anyhow.''

Fifty voices at once, from as many ragged good-tempered
fellows who surround the passage leading from the steamer's
side, sufficiently prove that we have changed the country.

The cars thus numerously offered bear all the marks of a
people who are not impeded in their progress by any unnecessary
attention to outward show. The accumulated dust and filth of
years covers the vehicle ; and lest there should be any discrepancy
of appearance, the harness, horse, and man, are all of a colour,
and that the natural one — I mean the colour of the earth, in
its most impalpable form. A sportsman, however, suffers no
annoyance from these accidental changes ; and I was not long in
reaching the hotel at Cork.

It would be unjust not to say anything of this splendid city
— for splendid it is ; though I cannot spare much space for the
topography of those places which afford nothing more than the

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 13

amusements to be derived from other well-populated and ex-
tensive towns.

The harbour is excellent, and is formed by the embouchure
of the river Lee. At first view of the magnificent range of
buildings, one is tempted to ask if this be the misery of Ireland ?
Shops fitted up in the most attractive style ; abundant popula-
tion, and all bearing the appearance of the utmost prosperity
— the appearance, I say, and that is the drawback ; for, though
affectedly fine, the eye cannot fail to rest on the crowds of
desolate creatures, worn by disease or age, who, at every corner,
assail the passer-by for charity.

The Imperial is a good hotel, but partakes of the character-
istics to which I have elsewhere referred. Indeed, generally, the
traveller will find that, amidst other things which have been
adopted from England, inn-charges have not been forgotten;
and, if we doubted the extent of any acquaintance a maitre
cThStel, in Ireland, may have with English civility and attention, it
would be at once conceded, when the bill is presented, that he was
on intimate terms with the book department of the Clarendon.
To be well treated, and charged unreasonably, may be forgiven,
but it is execrable to be starved and fleeced; and, although
"marble chimney-pieces, not expressly mentioned in the bill,
inflame it most confoundedly**' — it is mortifying to find the
swelling exist, where the marble chimney-piece does not.

Cork, on my arrival, was in an excited state ; the assizes had
just commenced, and I lost no time in making my way to the
court-house, anxious to hear some of that extravagant eloquence,
for which the Irish bar is so celebrated.

On my entrance, I was at once struck by the apparent want
of decorum of the scene. Nothing can be more offensive to an
English lawyer, than that absence of dignity and order, which is
everywhere observable in a court of justice in Ireland. The
counsel, wigless, gownless — without any mark whereby they
could be distinguished from attorneys, visitors, witnesses, or
thieves ; but all appeared huddled together round the judge,

14 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

who, in a plain scratch, looks commonplace enough. There is
a familiarity among all parties that would startle the pride of
an English lawyer, and may have led to the Milesian joke, of a
suitor stopping the judge, on his way to the court-house, and
imploring him " to do justice in his favour.*"

Something has been said of Irish eloquence. I had an
opportimity, here, of judging of the style which seems to have
been universally adopted by the bar of this country. There is
no difficulty in perceiving that it differs from that which the
calmer feelings of the English, and the phlegmatic constitution
of our juries, have fostered. The mercurial temperament, and
naturally romantic tone, which are generally ascribed to the
Irish character, pervade even the commonplace matters of mere
legal considerations. It is not impossible that the ornamental
flourishes, adopted in such disquisitions, may be designed to
cover ignorance of the abstract question, or to hide errors in
practice. Nor are the Irish alone in that.

I believe no persons in the world are more constitutionally
addicted to ideality than the Irish ; and, when the superiority
of their country is the subject, the warmth of conviction which
they evince shows how little they stop to examine, how little
disposed they are, to let reason have her influence. It has been
said, that this devotion to the imaginative produces, not un-
frequently, great errors among gentlemen who have been induced
to leave their native isle. So far, indeed, has the power of fancy
not unfrequently carried them, that they at last have arrived at
the conviction of their being possessed of estates, the fee simple
of which existed nowhere but in their own productive minds.

However the imagination may be cultivated by the bar in
Ireland, it is quite certain that among the laity nothing seems
to excite more ingenuity than litigation ; nor is it uncommon to
find, among the lower orders, although utterly ignorant of all
other things, some who are adepts in the art of legal quibbling.
It was my lot to hear one case tried at the assizes, at Cork. The
corollary I afterwards learned. Patrick 0''Sullivan sued Mike

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 15

Moriarty for the value of three cows, sold to Mike during the
lifetime of the plaintift's (CSullivan's) father. To the declara-
tion, stating that Mike had had the cows, Mike could offer no
plea. True it was that Mike had had the cows — true he had
killed them, or sold them, or eaten them — but by no means
under contract of debt ; and yet a defence, under the circum-
stances, would have been impossible.

Mike took advice, and let the action go by default. But
the facts were amusing, if not quite creditable to the plaintifTs
morality. O'Sullivan, during his father^s life, had stolen the
cows, and bartered with Mike to kill and sell them, allowing him
(the stealer) certain profits and certain portions. These were
paid. Lamentations, deep and loud, were made by the elder
O'Sullivan, for the loss of his cows, which had been his chief
fortune and support. He published hand-bills for their recovery,
but no cows came back.

None joined in the pursuit of the culprit with more apparent
ardour than the son of the loser. The old man died. He bore
his loss hardly, and perhaps his death was hastened by the grief
arising from it. Whereupon the son, now heir, brought his
action for the recovery of the value of the cows, well knowing
that recrimination was impossible on the part of the defendant,
who paid the money, and who declareth on the oath of an honest
Irishman, that Patrick O'Sullivan is the greatest rogue 'tween
Donaghadee and Tig na Vauria.

Cork has a theatre, which, being open during the assizes, led
me to contemplate the state of the histrionic art in the sister
isle. The play was The Castle Spectre, and it was somewhat
droll to hear the broad Irish accent with which the old English
Baron expressed his loves and his dream. He was a man of
about four feet, either way; and if you had put him on his
side, he would have acted with as much locomotion and
agility.

I inquired who the Roscius was, and by what accident he was
pressed into the service of the first tragedy. The answer was

16 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

satisfactory — the same vanity exists here as in other places. — The
old English Baron was enacted by the manager !

Let me do justice to the hospitality of my Cork friends to
whom I had letters of introduction. One whom I had not the
pleasure to find at home, but for whom I left my letter, sent
down to my inn a warm request that I would join the evening
party, which he expected that day at his house.

The invitation was so warm and unaffected that I accepted
it, and was introduced to about forty gentlemen, who were not,
as would be said at Oxford, 'mining' but punching: It was true
I had greatly the advantage of this party, in having temperately
taken my quiet dinner alone. The sudden transition from the
ennui and gloomy loneliness in which an Englishman " abroad '"*
is inclined to indulge, to a noisy, joyous party, who had advanced
already to the fourth tumbler, will be supposed to have been
productive of some impression ; and, when I entered, I found the
glasses jingling from violent blows on the table : the party, one
and all, having arrived at that method of expressing their appro-
bation of a speech which had just been delivered.

" Hurra ! bravo ! sir — glorious country where the whiskey is
the only drink ! — let me entreat you — not a headache in a hogs-
head— most happy to see English gentlemen in Ireland — we
want but free intercourse to set aside all prejudices."

" Who says we stand in need of intercourse ? Sir, no offence
to you — you are an Englishman, proud of your country — we
are Irishmen, and, till the English learn to drink whiskey instead
of the miserably washy wine, there can be no intercourse, and
the union must be dissolved."

" Union dissolved ! " exclaimed another voice. " By the
powers, when I see that day FU not be alive ! "

" Alive or dead, you''ll soon see the day ! O'Connell for
ever ! who says no ? "

" O'Connell for ever ! " was re-echoed through the room.
The very name was sufficient to set all in an uproar. Our host
now proposed an adjournment; but the subject was not to be

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 17

so passed; agitation had begun, and this was the signal.
Every man had his opinion on the subject, and every man
thought he had a right to express it, and exhibited the utmost
impatience to do so.

The whiskey was now mixed, and disposed of in greater haste ;
it was evident the row would begin ; five or six gentlemen were
at once on their legs, all speaking at the extent of their voices,
and each appearing impressed with the notion that he was the
only party commanding attention. Glasses began to dance,
chairs to slip from under their disputants, and, amid the
complete uproar, I could only distinguish these facts — that
O'Connell was the greatest villain alive, and the only prop and
stay of his country !

Cards were handed across, — till our host opened the door,
and in the loudest tone invited the gentlemen to the drawing-
room. Many followed : and there we found the ladies, deeply
engaged in the mysteries of three -card loo, and indeed with
tolerable stakes. There were no introductions or ceremonies,
nor did the gentle part of the audience feel at all disturbed by
the riot which occasionally, as the door was opened, burst on
our ears.

I was seriously alarmed, and expressed my feelings to my
host, who assured me that twenty gentlemen would in all pro-
bability exchange cards, yet that was a ceremony which was
too common to be alarming, and too harmless to be fraught
with any considerable consequences. " In fact," said he, " out
of a hundred challenges we find few duels ; the gentlemen are
only desirous of proving the truth of their positions, and
nothing can tend so satisfactorily to do so as the passing of a
card. With the whiskey the ardour will evaporate, and the
same parties will meet again to-morrow, in all probability with
a like result."

On our entrance into the drawing-room there was no appear-
ance of alarm among the ladies. Every accomplishment was
there in requisition, which the riotousness of the party from the

18

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

dining-room did not interrupt or disturb. We are deceived by
the representation of those who have attempted to depict the
manners of the Irish fair. Although my rambles did not afford
me many opportunities of testing my opinion, yet those that
did occur to me confirm me in the belief that Irish ladies are

'gP^|;#ljill||»

I HERE PURCHASED MY TaCKLE.

generally more accomplished, and exhibit more talent in ac-
quirement than may generally be found among the English
higher classes. Their manners are gentle and unaffected, with
a dash of hilarity which renders them infinitely more fascinating.
They are beautiful to a proverb ; and it is not true that the
moment your eye rests on a lady, she immediately responds —

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 19

"port, if you please'" — nor that the second look induces the
declaration that " she will ask papa."'"'

Cork must be set down, upon the whole, as the most
flourishing town in Ireland. Its buildings, especially those
residences on the banks of the river towards the island called
the Cove, are in English taste, and bespeak close connection
with the sister country. The continual intercourse, now estab-
lished by means of steam-packets, has tended greatly to improve
the taste and manners of the inhabitants of all those towns
situated on the English side ; and although much may be found
to admire in this city, it must be observed that it still exhibits
all the prosperity and wretchedness, all the elegance and the
squalid poverty, which seem everywhere associated in Irish towns.

I here purchased my tackle. I recommend the angler to
choose a good tie rod, and a large reel that will contain 150
yards of stout hemp line, well twisted. It should be soaked in
oil and bees-wax, well melted ; then stretched and reeled. The
cost of this, which is the only line fit for use among the rocky
rivers he will have to traverse, will be one shilling. Select, also,
in Cork, a few flies of various sizes and colours, which will be
found well made and of the right kind. With these, a good
gun, a pound of the best tobacco (the most acceptable return
that can be made for the civility of a mountaineer), I took
coach to Macroom, a distance of thirty miles.

CHAPTER III

Start from Cork — Wild Character of the Country — An Irish Coachman
— Sporting Prospects — Warning to Improvers — Pike versus Salmon
— Arrival at Macroom — Ominous Demonstrations — A False Alarm —
Inn Accommodations — An Irish Waiter — Extravagant Charges —
Poverty and Desolation — Taste for Mud — Commencement of Opera-
tions— A Native Sportsman — Irish Blarney — Directions for Trolling
— Incomparable Bait.

From Cork, 27 miles; from Killarney, 28 miles; from Mill Street,
11 miles.

Fishing stations. Lake Inchgeelah, 5 miles ; and the rivers Toom,
Lee — the latter running close by the town.

Armed with all the appliances of sport, I mounted the coach
from Cork to Macroom. The ride presented a desolate country,
composed alternately of bog and rocky mountain, with little
wood, which becomes less and less as the journey is pursued
into the interior of the country. Even one mile from Cork,
no trace appears of the neighbouring refinement. Poverty of
the extremest kind is exhibited in habitations scarcely one
degree above the damp cave of the wild beast ; furze being used
for doors, and turf for the roof. Here and there a solitary
and staring creature, half of whose body is covered with a
mass of rags, which are blown about by the wind — the other
half perfectly uncovered — leads the traveller to imagine that
he has taken some sudden leap from all that is civilised into
a new and hitherto undiscovered country. No inn on the
road breaks the monotony of the scene, or relieves the gloomi-

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 21

ness of the way. The coachman, with a large glazed hat, a
home-made whip, and blue sailor^s jacket, is the only person
who interrupts the depressed tone which the mind is apt, under
such circumstances, to assume. He indeed keeps up a continual
conversation with his horses — reasons with them — threatens
them. " Ah, by the powers ! — come up there now — d'ye start
at that ! — faith youVe seen it before, many a day. — Ah ! ah !
there I caught you — don't be too forgiving now — bear malice
agin me, and remember it. — Ah! youVe too forgiving, any
way — catch a glimpse o' that, ye spalpeens — come along here
now — faith you'll have a stop at the rise."

The road follows the river Lee for some miles, and then
crosses the river Bride, a tributary to the Lee. Although the
latter river does not present any chance of good trout-fishing,
the Bride, which is of a more declivitous character, will repay
the angler, especially if he watches the opportunity of rainy
weather.

Owen's Inn will be found a tolerable station for the Bride ;
though I should not advise any lengthened stay at any place
short of Killarney, as all the streams are of an uncertain
character, and require to be visited at the exact moment to
ensure success — I mean the subsiding of a flood. The beauty
of this river consists in its varied falls — some of ten or fifteen
feet; but the country through which it flows has the air of
terrible desolation. Here and there may be observed patches
of com ; but the general view presents little but bog and
mountain.

But, to the sportsman, the wildness of the mountains — the
unhedged expanse, on which nothing appears but the thinly
scattered cots of the humble labourer — the sparkling and rapid
river, now sullenly smooth, now dashing down precipices and
dividing its streams into deep and gurgling eddies — inspire
feelings of delightful anticipation.

The river Lee, into which the Bride falls, was once highly
celebrated for its fine trout and salmon. Now, alas ! it swarms

22 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

with pike ; the sahnon have greatly diminished, and trout have
become almost extinct.

It is remarkable that, as yet, the whole county of Kerry,
to which we are progressing, does not contain a single pike;
and, till within these twenty years, there was not one known
in the noble river Lee. Its source, the Lake Inchgeelah, is a
noble expanse of water, and was once the resting-place of
immense shoals of salmon, and white trout. Latterly they
have disappeared, and from a cause which should, and I trust
will, operate as a warning to all who live in the neighbourhood
of rivers not yet infested with the destructive pike. The
injury done to the inhabitants of this part of the country,
— through whose property flows the river Lee, once so prolific
in excellent food, and from whose wild waters even the poorest
could once make an easy addition to their humble meal, — is
irreparable. It appears that a gentleman who had built a
house on its banks, not far from Cork, among other ornaments
sank a pool, which discharged itself into the river. Not
content with the abundant supply of salmon and trout which
the stream afforded, he was desirous of surprising his neigh-
bours by the possession of a fish until then unknown in this
part of the country. With a view of obtaining this distinction,
he sent for some pike, which with great difficulty were brought
fifty miles, and placed in his despicable pond. The natural
consequence ensued : the banks, during a flood, gave way,
and the pike were at once precipitated into the river. Here
food was so abundant amidst the trout and young salmon,
that, since this accident, such has been the increase of pike,
that they now occupy every hole in the Lee. The troller,
however, may find good sport, and it is not the least recom-
mendation of this river that its banks are open to all comers ;
so that, from Lake Inchgeelah, a distance by the river of fifty-
six miles, there will be found no obstruction to the humblest
sportsman.

In following this river down, the only difficulty would be

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 23

the want of accommodation, which could only be procured in
the wretched cabins of the peasantry near the road, which
crosses and re-crosses the river many times between Cork and
Macroom. It is not now unusual to find pike of from thirty to
forty pounds weight in the least frequented parts, — in the long
reaches, or wherever the fall of the stream is sluggish.

The rising smoke in that low corner of the opening valley
now warns us of our approach to our station, Macroom. The
cabins become more numerous along the side of the road, though
not better in their construction. On approaching the town, we
had attracted one or more of the inmates of every cabin ; and,
by the time we had entered the town, we had an escort of at
least two thousand persons, men, women, and children, who had
collected by degrees as the coach passed. I was somewhat
alarmed at the assembly, which increased at every yard of our
progress. The moment the sound of the coach was heard, out
poured the inhabitants of every cabin.

On our entering the broad, open space, in the middle of the
town, the crowd closed on us, and nothing could be seen but a
sea of heads. English and Irish exclamations were heard in a
confused yell. — " Come out, ye spalpeen — oh, the devil's luck to
ye, and we got ye, anyhow."" Hundreds of ragged, though
strong and handsome fellows pressed forward, through the
screaming crowd, to the coach doors, and threw them open,
with an apparent determination of violence that could not but
alarm an English traveller. Luckily, I was outside, or I should
have imagined myself the object of the pursuit. When I crept
from the roof, and forced my way into the inn, which I accom-
plished with some difficulty, I was soon informed of the cause of
the uproar. There had been a murder committed some time
before, from that exhaustless source of blood and violence, in
this unhappy country, the collection of tithes. A policeman
had deliberately shot one of the mob, which had assembled to
watch the proceedings of the proctor's constables. He had
been arraigned at the assizes at Cork, the day before, and

24 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

acquitted. It was expected by the populace that he would
return this day to Macroom, by the coach ; and had he done so,
it is not difficult to imagine the fate that would have awaited
him. Peaceable as the crowd was, had the object of their
assembling appeared, flushed with the victory of an acquittal,
the market-place of Macroom would have been strewed with his
limbs. When, however, the crowd was satisfied that the
delinquent was not on the coach, they gradually dispersed,
without any disposition to riot. I was assured that there was
no apprehension on the part of the inhabitants of the town,
notwithstanding the extraordinary assemblage of so many, and
so apparently lawless a mob. In the madness of their revenge,
the Irish seldom commit wanton mischief; and their most
violent and lawless assemblages are always unaccompanied by
the uncalled-for injuries which too often are the result of
English crowds. They have a wild love of justice, which
pervades even their acts of greatest intemperance.

I was not at first aware that in this town very tolerable
private lodgings might have been procured, and, unluckily, I
established my quarters at the inn — I say, unluckily; for,
though I found some accommodation, it was not of an order
which kept pace with the magnificence of the charges. The
traveller must not expect to find at any of the inns, out of the
principal towns, such inordinate luxuries as carpets; he may,
however, reckon pretty confidently on finding a red -headed
monster, shoeless, stockingless, and capless, acting the part of a
waiter — one who will hold back her matted locks to give her
eyes a chance with one hand, while she hands you, between her
thumb and finger, whatever edible you may demand, perfectly
good-tempered, and wondering what can possibly ail the stranger
who is surrounded, as she conceives, by every earthly luxury.

In consequence of the frequent visits of regiments, especially
during the war, there happened to have been provided for the
officers some decent apartments. These, the sportsman who
determines to take a week on this station, should secure ; though

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 25

he must take care to do here what he should do throughout
Ireland — drive a good bargain; for so impressed are all the
" parvi mercatores ^^ of this country with a belief in the exhaust-
less wealth of the English, that no scruples restrain the violence
of their inordinate expectations.

The appearance of poverty and desertion which the town
presents is much heightened by the neglect of those whose
means are not doubtful. It will be found the characteristic of
almost every Irish town, nay, of almost every mansion, that
time and mischief are suffered to do their worst ; nothing is ever
repaired. Even in well and substantially built houses, every
second pane of glass has given way to a board nailed across the
window, or a still more offensive paper patching. Bricks, or
stones, or tiles, as they fall from the piles of buildings, which
really would constitute a handsome range, if in repair, are
suffered to remain where fortune may place them, till the wheels
of the heavy carts crush them into the dust and mud which no
municipal law controls. This latter is not offensive to the
inhabitants ; on the contrary, they seem to enjoy the softness of
it, as all the female part of the population and the children are
shoeless ; and it is observable that they always choose the softest
and deepest mass of mud, in which to crowd together for their
mutual salutations or disquisitions. The smoke, which many
years of turf-fire has supplied, has contributed greatly to the
dingy desolation of the general appearance. Whitewash would
set all right ; but, though the lime-stone may be had for the
fetching, the habits of the people appear inveterate, and the
suggestion of the improvement it would make is met by a stare
of happy independence.

These particulars are stated more in the way of description
than complaint. I would give nothing for the society of that
sportsman who could view the wild freedom of this country, and
complain of the coarseness of his fare.

While thus attended by the red-headed girl, who understands
not a word of English, and while the bacon and potatoes.

26 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

unaccompanied, smoke on the board, let the remembrance of the
wild rivers and mountains come to the sportsman, and furnish
the rest. In traversing them, he will find no " Take Notice,"
in a walk of three hundred miles !

Mine host informed me that there was but one man in the
town who knew anything of fishing ; and at my request he was
sent for, as I had resolved to begin operations forthwith.

By the time I had finished my humble repast, the native
sportsman was announced. One glance was enough to show that
Owen was a character — a mild, humble, and amiable one — of
intelligence beyond his station, and in which much of native
independence of spirit was blended. His form was singularly
emaciated; and I at once learned that he lived in a secluded
manner, with a bed-ridden mother, whom nothing could induce
him to desert. He had never been known to submit to any kind
of employment ; though, during the cold months, it had been
frequently a matter of surprise that he continued to support
himself by the rod. Sometimes, indeed, in the depth of winter?
he has been known to take salmon from the river Lee; and
although his frame had little more of substantiality than the
coarse rod which was his companion, he often walks from thirty
to forty miles a day ; and a happy day for him is that which
brings to his companionship a fellow-sportsman.

Of Owen I inquired the locale. His history of the river Lee
was much that which I have given it. He shed tears, after a
glass or two of whiskey, over the failing salmon, in consequence
of the increase of pike ; and we settled to commence operations
the next morning at an early hour. Our plan was to be provided
with pike tackle, as well as for trout and salmon, and to take
with us a boy who should carry the gun, and accompany us to
the Lake Inchgeelah. I kept him with me the whole evening,
while he produced for my inspection what he called his colours^
which were bundles of feathers. These ,were his treasures —
the mine, whence he drew all that he enjoyed — and nothing
could exceed the dexterity with which he manufactured a

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 27

singularly coarse, but, upon the whole, effective imitation of
large flies.

After having listened to his instructions as to the colour, if
the day was dark — the falls, in which we might expect to find
fish — and the best way of meeting the river across the Toom
Bridge (about three miles from the town) — I astonished him by
my declaration that I held all his apparatus in the most supreme
contempt : that if there were salmon and trout in the river, I
would undertake to offer him any het that I would exceed his
skill, either measuring by number or weight, provided he adhered
to his flies ; — nay, that he should choose his ground, and I would
follow him up the river.

His astonishment soon gave way to an incredulous smile.
Yet the mildness of his character, and the natural genius for
flattery (which requires not the aid of the blarney-stone to
develop) inherent in Milesian constitutions — and which especially
pervades the lower classes — restrained him from any contradic-
tion. " To be sure and it is not for the likes of me to doubt
your honour — ^your honour knows right well how to catch fish —
and I'd be sorry and grieved to think I'd do more than your
honour's honour — but, may be, I know the river where the fish
lie; and perhaps, by chance, I'd bate your honour anyhow
without intinding it at all at all — but your honour knows best."

I now told him I relied not on flies, and at once produced
my trolling apparatus.

As this book is to be read by sportsmen, and as much of the
amusement I derived in this tour is attributable to a kind of
angling utterly unknown in Ireland, and I believe little under-
stood in England, I shall once for all describe, as I did to my
incredulous friend Owen, the means I adopt. The fullest
explanation may perhaps be excused; because, without some
patient trials, in which the angler may meet disappointment,
the real superiority of bait angling may not be achieved. But
the art once acquired, the whole genus of the salmon, even down
to the sparling, is at the command of the sportsman. He defies

28 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

even the weather, and meets all the difficulties of the longest
drought by a more astute mode only of presenting the lure.

The rod should be about twenty feet, running tackle ; and,
at the end of the line, use eight or ten feet of fine gut — Hook
No. 3 or 4. Load the gut with split shot, according to the
power of the stream, always remembering that the bait must be
carried down at the bottom of the stream — that bait is the roe
of the salmon. It is prepared by Scotsmen, who take the salmon
in November, for the purpose of securing the spawn. The receipt
for preserving it is as follows : —

Take the full roe of a salmon, wash it carefully from all
particles of blood, and then separate the grains : when this has
been carefully done, pour over the whole a strong brine, made of
common salt and saltpetre, equal parts, and let it remain six
hours ; then drain it thoroughly, and place the whole in a slow
oven, till it assumes a toughness. Then pot the whole down,
so as to exclude the air, and it is fit for use.

On the production of my store, Owen expressed his surprise
at the clear scarlet of its colour ; but he still doubted its efficacy
in Irish rivers. Appointing, therefore, our meeting for five in
the morning, my red-headed ancilla led the way to my half-glazed
apartment.

CHAPTER IV

Advice to Sportsmen — Mode of Conveyance — An Irish Pony and his Food
— Delight of the First Cast — Failure and Success — Irish Astonishment
— An Irish Sign — Native Hospitality — A Sportsman's Dinner —
Natural Magic — Lake Inchgeelah — Directions for Fishing in this
Lake — Hints to Anglers and Sportsmen in general — Character of the
Kerry Peasantry — An Invitation to Dinner — Irish Servants — An odd
Establishment — An Irish Kitchen — Irish Hospitality — Wine and the
Ladies — Whiskey and the Gentlemen— An Irish Dinner Party — The
Sporting Major — Longbow-ism — An Irish Angler's Exploit — Sporting
Extraordinary — A Dance — Prospective Sport with the Major.

At five o'clock my Mercury was with me. The excitement
of the new comitry, and the wildness and irregularity of all I
had seen, had so hung on my imagination, that I had slept
little ; I was ready, therefore, at his call ; the pony and chaise,
which I had bought at Cork, and ordered to be sent on to me
at Macroom, had arrived, and was led to the door.

Ere we start, let me advise every sportsman to adopt this
mode of conveyance. A mountain pony, with a light gig, will
supply all the wants of post-horses, which, excepting in the
beaten tracks, are hardly to be found. The mode, too, of feed-
ing an Irish pony, namely, on potatoes, is convenient, as they
may be had at all cottages ; and the animal thrives greatly on
them.

I found Owen had neither scrip nor staff. His long rod over
his shoulder, and his gaff strapped on his back, a short pipe and
a tobacco-pouch, were all the store he had prepared to face the

30

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

blast of a March morning. The wind blew and the torrents
descended ; but what were wind and rain to us ? they constitute
the fisherman's fine weather, and amidst these mountains there
was little other.

After a drive of three miles, we resigned the gig to a staring
mountaineer, who was directed by my companion, in Irish, to

- - -"-//i'""**/ ^>;9t

•/cj*-i

The Wind blew — the Torrents descended.

take it to Inchgeelah Lake, and there await our arrival. I shall
not soon forget the feeling of delight with which I ran across
the bog that intervened between the road and the dark and
dashing river, to take my first cast in so wild a stream.

Owen had already commenced for salmon, while I elected to
troll for pike. For this purpose I had procured a small samlet.
Mile after mile did we trudge, sometimes stopped by bog, and

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 31

compelled to journey round — no traces of former footsteps to
direct our course, yet uncheered by a rise or a run. We at
length arrived at a waterfall, where once, in happier times, had
stood a mill. Here I changed my tackle, and adopted the roe ;
convinced that if there were trout in the stream, they assuredly
would be found in a spot so congenial to their habits. Weary
with my walk, and the fatigue of trolling, I threw down my rod
with my line at length in the eddy, and was watching the
success of Owen''s casts with the fly. " Hurrah ! ^^ exclaimed he,
" your honour's rod is clear gone entirely."

I had just time to catch the butt, which was slowly moving
on the edge of the stream, and lifted it upwards. It was fast
at the bottom — it cleared — and up sprang a fine sea-trout of
four pounds weight, fresh run from the sea, by the silvery white-
ness of his scales. With some difficulty we landed him ; but
who shall describe the aghast expression of my companion's
countenance ? It was clear he had imagined my infallible bait
was some delusion of my own ; nothing that I had said of its
virtue had made the slightest impression on his mind. Regard-
ing me, while he held the fish in his right hand, with a stare of
astonishment and wonder, he at last burst forth — "Your
honour's a fisherman anyway — your honour has got the power
of bewitchment — the likes was niver seen in Ireland. Faith it's
a fresh run ; the devil a fly they'll touch to-day ; hurrah, but
your honour's a fisherman."

Recovered from his surprise, we pushed our way upwards
towards the source of the river Lee and the Lake Inchgeelah.
The route was in the highest degree picturesque, though the
morning was cloudy, with occasional rain. Owen had succeeded
in taking one salmon, and myself three sea- trout.

At length we arrived at what is called " the public," a small
cottage, with a piece of turf dangling at the door, to indicate to
the initiated that, if nothing else at least, good potheen might
be had there. It was situated on the edge of the lake. The
only neighbours were two policemen, whose station was also on

32 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

the banks of this neglected and almost unkno^^-n expanse of
watei-s.

The lake is about five miles in length, and varying from one
to three in breadth. A few straggling cabins may be seen mider
the suiTounding rocks, whose inhabitants were of the most
destitute order. Into whatever cottage or cabin we entered,
however, the proprietors were all civil, and anxious to oblige the
stranger. The feeling of hospitality is indigenous. The turf
fire was instantly made up; the kettle — the only article of
cookery, and almost of furniture — was immediately suspended ;
the potatoes washed ; and the wooden platter prepared.

Our mountain walk had made these preparations acceptable.
The trout were soon split and scored, and laid across the now
clear turf; and they furnished an excellent meal.

The conversation between Owen and the listeners was con-
ducted in Irish, and, although I could detect that I was the
chief subject of it, I was not quite aware that the superstitious
feelings of my companion had literally induced him to represent
that there must have been some magic in the mode of taking
the sea-trout. The men examined my tackle, looked cautiously
at me, and seemed to be impressed with some suspicions. The
arrival, however, of the policeman, who, I had understood, was
the only fisherman of the lake, and who spoke English, reheved
me from all further embarrassment.

Inchgeelah Lake is romantic, and in the highest degree
beautiful. It is the recipient of another range of lakes, situated
about five miles from the spot I am now describing, but into
which no pike can ascend. The upper lake, therefore, which is
laid down as Lake Alua, is filled with trout, not large, but of
singular beauty and flavour. The lower lakes present no other
sport than may be had from trolling and night-lines.

So simple and poor are the wretched inhabitants of the
banks, that they have not the means of adding to their deficient
food by fishing. Not even a boat has yet graced the broad ex-
panse of the lake.

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 33

I found that the poHceman was furnished with a rod, which
he now produced, and we sallied forth to adopt a mode of
trolling that has been very little used in English water. As we
were obliged to fish from the banks, it is no doubt the most
effectual way ; though, if this water had been furnished with a
boat, trailing would constitute excellent sport. The mode to
which I allude is trolling with a fly. It is thus made : on the
largest sized pike-hook bind round coarse worsted of light and
gaudy colours, and with the two eyes of peacock's feathers for
wings, the whole bound on to strong whipcord, cast with the
wind, and jag the fly along the surface.

In this way we were all successful, and had the pleasure of
presenting our entertainers at the cottage with three or four
very fine fish, resolving to carry the rest home. The sport,
however, is not exciting. The pike is a dull fish, and, though
he will sometimes run very freely, it may happen a dozen times
that he will not stir, however tempting the lure.

This spot presents varied fishing : the river, for salmon and
trout ; the Lake Inchgeelah, for pike ; and the upper lake, for
fly-fishing, for trout of a smaller kind. If accommodation could
be had at the " public '*'' — which, indeed, might be managed, by
sending thither some little furniture — a short time might be
very delightfully spent in these wilds. It should not be for-
gotten, also, that the wild fowl are numerous in the autumn and
winter — that the whole district is free as air to the sportsman —
and that there is not the least apprehension justly to be enter-
tained of any violence from the inhabitants. Their manners
here, as throughout Keny, will be found obliging and amiable ;
and let me observe, in common justice, that whatsoever repre-
sentations it may please certain political bawlers to make, or
cause to be made, against the general subordination of the
peasantry, it should be remembered that the calumny is uttered
against those who have no means of rebutting it. In fact, I
believe a more peaceful and inoffensive race does not exist, than
that inhabiting the county of Kerry.

34 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

On our arrival at Macroom, I found an invitation to dine
with a gentleman in the neighbourhood, and immediately dis-
patched Owen with the fish, and a note, containing my accept-
ance of the invitation.

It would amuse an Englishman, who, for the first time,
dines at the table of a genuine Irish family, to contemplate the
immense profusion of the substantials, and the droll appearance
the servants cut, fresh from the stable, in their master's old
clothes. As one passes through the passage to the drawing-
room, it is not unusual to see four or five shoeless and stocking-
less women, with their hair over their eyes and faces, flying
before you, into the dirt holes, called, in this country, kitchens.
These are helps for the occasion, and are reinforcements,
generally drawn from the neighbouring cottages. One turns
a spit, the other sits by the fire to blow the turf; one smokes
a pipe over the ragouts, while a fourth looks on — it being an
acknowledged principle, that it will require ^\e times as many
women servants in Ireland as in England to do a given quantity
of work.

In general, a dinner at "the house,'' as any respectable domicile
is termed, is a day of rejoicing and jubilee. Every cottager on
the estate claims privilege to offer suit and service, and if he
can assist no one, or his services are not accepted, he can ever
avail himself of the old request, viz. to light his pipe — which
he not only lights, but smokes in the kitchen — into which, if
by any wrong turn you should unhappily chance to put your
nose, so vile a compound of villanous smells would assail you
as would effectually damage the ardour of your mastication.

It is fair to do justice to the Irish in their feasts. They
mean to be hospitable, and deem excessive profusion of edible
matter the greatest proof of that intention. Unwilling, how-
ever, that you should lose that idea by any desultory succes-
sion, the whole is crammed on the table at once, without any
regard to order or consistency; of wines, nothing is known.
It is true, wine is placed on the table, as a matter of form, to

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 36

amuse the ladies, who, indeed, are the only persons who do not
treat it with negligence. But the instant the loads are removed
from the table, a tumbler and wine-glass, together with a small
jug of hot water, are placed before each gentleman. In the
middle of the table are two glass flagons, each containing
about a gallon of whiskey, and every one proceeds to use, what
are significantly termed (par excellence) " the matarials.*" Then
commences the true Irish ebullition of feeling. No sooner are
"the matarials '" produced, than, as by a sudden inspiration,
those who had previously been restrained and silent, at once
conceive that they have patriotism and sense, and are determined
to prove that position.

On my arrival at the house, I found the company to consist

of the host, an hospitable and kind one — Major K , who, I

believe, in compliment to myself, had been invited, as he was a
thorough fisherman — the priest of the parish — an Irish barrister
— and a couple of those young gentlemen who may pass for
anything; they were, however, I believe, in this instance, law
students.

On our introduction, I learned soon from the major, that he
had been, since the battle of Waterloo, resident as a fisherman
at Killarney. It did not require much to discover, from him-
self, that his funds were restricted to the allowance of the
government, which, with all his soul, he detested, or, that he
had told stories of his exploits in the art of fishing, till he
absolutely himself believed them. It was difiicult to reconcile
the perfect honesty of his character with the broad assertions he
made ; nor was there even apparent in his manner, while so
making them, the least distrust of credence; he took it for
granted that every man believed what he would indubitably
have upheld, at the risk of life, had it been doubted. The
priest was the only man who dared to ask if the major was sure
of anything ; and, to him, the reply was, " Do you question it ?
By my sowl, and the blood of the K's, it never was doubted
before ! There was that affair of the salmon : Lord V told

36 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

me, that, if any other man had told the story, he wouldn't
believe it. I sent my friend to him. Father, and he acknow-
ledged that he believed every word of it."" Then, turning to
me, "You may do as you like, sir; you are an Englishman,
and know little of Irish fishing. By the powers, you'll larn
what it is to be a sportsman ! "

" Hear the major,*" says the priest ; " he'll tell the story."

" By the sowl of me, and I'll tell it anyhow."

" Tell it right, major."

" Is there a man would say that to me but your own good-
looking self, now. Father ? "

I begged to hear the story.

" You must believe it," said the priest.

"And who doesn't?" said the major, gulping down his
third tumbler of punch, and slamming the glass on the table.
Then, turning to me — " Sir, everybody knows the fact — I caught
a hare and a salmon at one cast of the fly ! "

" Oh, Benedicite ! " says the priest.

" None of your holy bother, now, Father. I'm after relating
to the gentleman this remarkable adventure. Give me the
matarials."

The needful was soon prepared; and the major, directing
his conversation exclusively to me, proceeded to say that, while
fishing in the Lee, not far from Macroom, he saw a fine fish
rise under the opposite bank. He immediately drew out his
line, so as to enable him by a cast to reach the exact spot. He
had previously put on two large flies, such as are commonly
used for salmon in high water. He drew back the line which
would extend thirty or forty yards behind him. On endeavour-
ing to make the cast, he found he had, as fishermen call it,
"hitched behind." At this moment the salmon rose again in
the same spot, and, in his eagerness to cover him, he gave a
strenuous jerk, with the intent of breaking one fly, and covering
the salmon with the other. Splash into the river went some-
thing heavy, which immediately took to swimming towards the

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 37

opposite bank, close to the spot where the salmon had risen.
The action of the animal so effectually played the other fly
before the salmon, that he forthwith seized it, and both were
well hooked. The major continued to relate that hereupon
commenced a hard struggle ; sometimes the salmon was on the
surface, and sometimes the other was drawn under water, till,
by judicious management, both were safely landed, and proved
to be a fine hare, hooked by the leg, and a salmon of twenty
pounds weight !

" I made them both a present to our worthy host," added
the major, " and it's myself that ate part of both.*"

"FU bear witness to the eating, at any rate,"" said the
priest.

"And it's rilbear witness to the catching,'' said the major,
"and who'll deny it?"

So earnest was the major, that I would offer no dissent ;
but, on the contrary, intimated my surprise at the singularity
of the adventure, with the utmost confidence in the fact. This
so pleased him that he begged to be allowed to make my punch,
which he could do in rale Irish proportions.

The next story the major warmed into was of his catching a
rat by a dexterous cast of the fly ; and a pike, which at once
seized the rat, was safely landed.

" Oh," cried the priest ; " is it the rat you're after ? now be
aisy, major ; you know we never had the rat for dinner."

" To be sure you didn't ; but everybody knows the fact, and
none but an unbelieving Jew or a priest would dare to cast dis-
credit on the account."

" It's impossible to surpass the story of the rat and the pike,
and I defy the major himself to go beyond it," said the priest,
appealing to me. I admitted that I thought it was the extent
to which such exploits could be carried by any concurrence of
circumstances.

"Extent!" cried the major; "drink your punch. Here's
to our host ! Oh, it's in Ireland you'll see the wonderful things."

38 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

" And hear them, too,'' said the priest.

" Troth and you will, if you listen to the whining preach-
ing of the Fathers of this day. Extent, indeed ! ''

It was evident the major was on his mettle, and he ever and
anon seemed boiling with some concealed yet important mystery.
The students grinned applause and acquiescence, while the
barrister thought that it would, in ordinary cases, have required
stronger evidence to convince the world in general, although for
himself he could entertain no doubt.

Our host now invited us to replenish, and the conversation
took a general turn. Politics, the wrongs of Ireland, the
Catholic claims, and Protestant ascendency, in turn, were dis-
cussed ; in all which the major was inobtrusive. I could not but
observe that he gulped down draught after draught, hastily ; and
when matters had settled into a calm train, and the affairs of
Ireland were undergoing a fearful review, smash went the glass
of the major on the table, and immediately followed his brawny
fist, which made the numerous tumblers ring a violent change.

"Extent! is it extent you mane.? Look ye, sir — I am a
Major in his Majesty's army, and am paid by a rascally govern-
ment: and, sir, I have never lost my character for veracity.
Extent ! — by the honour of the commission I hold, I once rode
a salmon astride out of the stream, and spurred him ashore ! "

A burst of surprise and admiration, from those least ac-
quainted with the major, followed this assertion.

" Rode a salmon ashore ? Impossible ! " says the priest.

" Verum quia impossibile, I presume you mean," said I ; " the
major will explain."

" Troth and I will, and the devil help the spalpeen that is
not satisfied with it. I repeat again, I rode a salmon astride,
and spurred him ashore. — Father, you know the shallows leading
to the mill of Ballyvoumeen."

" A good spot for a salmon," says the priest, " but bad for
riding him."

"You shall hear — I had been to Ballyvoumeen, and was

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 39

returning to Macroom, on horseback, in the evening. I had had
a long ride. Where the road passes by the side of the river, and
along the shallow which falls into the good people's hoh^ whom
should I see, hard at work with a salmon, but Phelim, the piper.
Hold on there, says I — and, booted and spurred as I was, I
dashed into the stream, and seized the rod from the piper, who
never had a steady hand, and was timid. The salmon was in
the hole, above which I stood in the shallows, and about mid-
stream. The moment the fish moved, I knew his weight to be
above forty pounds, for it's meself can tell to an ounce the weight
of a fish at the first plunge. Away went the salmon, and away
went the reel. I held on firmly and tightly till the line was
nearly out ; when, all at once, the fresh-run fish dashed up the
stream. I reeled away as quick as lightning, lest I should lose
my hold ; and, as the stream was strong, I bent my knees in the
water to get a firmer hold on my legs, and to give me the power
of winding quick. Suddenly I felt myself lifted off* my legs ! Oh,
Bubbaboo ! says I — it was but an instant — Is an Irishman ever at
a loss ? — I caught hold of the line for a bridle, stuck my spurs
into the side of the fish, which I now found closely stuck between
my legs, and with one bound we were both in the high shallows,
where I safely landed the monster, to the immortal honour of

fishing and the excellent dinner of Lord V , who swore if any

other man had said he had caught him in the same way, he would
not have believed him.''

Whatever the surprise excited by the former stories, it was
nothing to this. The priest thought the major must have been
mistaken ; I assented to the fact, because the major told it ; the
students laughed ; but the lawyer was silent. The major had
enough to do to assure all parties, over and over again, that the
relation was true — one of the party had winked, and all forthwith
acquiesced.

^ Good people's hole — a spot supposed to be haunted by fairies ; who,
although the cause, as the Irish suppose, of all possible mischief, are thus
designated in deprecation of their wrath.

40 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

Each gentleman having now done his duty with the punch,
the piper was called in — and amid the joyous revels of the dance,
the priest, with a good humour which greatly pleased me, was
the first to volunteer the jig with a lady who happened (of
course by the merest accident) to be the prettiest of the
party.

It was late ere we rose to depart. My leave-taking was a
matter of difficulty ; the cordiality and warmth with which I was
pressed to prolong, or to repeat my visit, being echoed from
every part of the family. Having at last, however, succeeded in
making my acknowledgments all round, and while hastening to
the door, I was arrested by the grip of the major, who assured
me he should with much pleasure join me at Killamey, and
would show me some real fishing ; adding, that he had still in
store some surprising stories of the philosopher''s art. " Extent,
sir ? I shall yet have the honour of surprising you.*"

CHAPTER V

Characteristic Scenery — Encampment of the M'^hitefeet Rebels — Romantic
Escapes and Dangers of an Irish Gentleman — Irish Hospitality — The
Lake of Inchgeelah — Delicious Treat — Difficult Road — Inn of the
Desert — Splendid View — Irish Ingenuity — History of an Irish Fisher-
man— His Devoted Affection — Heroic Self-devotion — Death of his
Betrothed — His Filial Affection — Character of the Irish Peasantry —
Sporting renewed — A Double Bite — Start for Killarney — The River
Flesk — Noble View — Coltsman Castle — Sporting Notices — Killarney
— A Perfect Gentleman ! — Ill-effects of English Generosity on the
Poor of Killarney.

From Macroom to Ballyvoumeen, a distance of fourteen miles,
the road lies along a branch of the river Lee, and through scenery
of the wildest character, consisting of sudden projections of
rocks, with here and there a cultivated patch. Here the plough
is unknown ; all the husbandry is performed with the primitive
spade, and even the labour of other animals would be unknown,
but that the carriage of the turf from the bogs to the isolated
huts gives occasional employment to wretched hacks, which
speak, by their condition, the grinding poverty of their owners.
The silence of the wilderness is alone broken by the occasional
low of the straggling cattle ; while, to the mind of the traveller,
miles of uncultivated bog, here and there broken by masses of
projecting rocks, present a proof that he is indeed in a land
neglected and oppressed.

The road which pursues the course of the river Lee is pro-
tected to the right by a chain of mountains of precipitous
character, cutting off all communication from that side of the

42 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

country, except by such narrow passes as the goat may have
established ; upon the brow of these mountains, once the scene
of human massacre, can now only be seen the hovering eagle.

On the height of this chain it was that the Whitefeet rebels
— to the number of 20,000 — poorly armed, and worse led,
once encamped themselves. Harassed by the severest pursuit,
cut off from supplies of every kind, in this ill-judged position
they awaited the attack of the military, till, by hunger
hundreds expiring, and surrounded on all hands, they made
a rude and defenceless assault on the troops, to whose discipline
and judgment these misguided creatui*es fell an easy prey. The
bloody history of this insurrection is too well known to require
remark ; seventeen were hanged in the market-place of Macroom,
amidst the silent but deep execration of the populace, whose
revenge had been excited by the reckless disregard for property
which the insurgents had evinced.

The track is now without a mark of the carnage by which
its beauty was once defaced. The clear turbulent river rolls on
in silent grandeur ; the peaceful angler may now cast his line on
its bright waters, and meet none but unoffending peasants !

I must not forget to do justice, as I pass, to the character of
a gentleman whose seat is in this neighbourhood, and who is
mixed up in the tragical events to which I have referred ; I

mean Mr. B , of Kilbarry. It was by his courage, skill,

and prudence, that the effects of the insurrection were averted.
Amongst others, he was especially marked for destruction, and
singularly romantic were the stratagems he used in gaining
intelligence of the rioters' movements, and in evading their
designs. His house was suddenly beset and as suddenly reduced
to ashes. The rebels had been taught to believe that, in this
act of destruction, they had accomplished their revenge by
burying him in the ruins. So well were his plans laid, and
so well were they acted on, that, having prepared the military
and put himself at their head, many hundreds fell into the
hands of the authorities. He now enjoys a pension from

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 43

government as some small remuneration for the heavy losses his
property sustained, and as a testimonial of the valuable services
he on this occasion rendered. The character he has acquired
for hospitality — a quality, indeed, valuable in these wilds — ^has
aided the general esteem in which he is so deservedly held. All
the guides to strangers who visit these mountains have full in-
structions to bring their charges to his house ; nothing can more
offend him than the neglect of the guides to obey this injunction.
Owen was strenuous on this point, and I yielded to his solicita-
tion : although I had the misfortune to find the excellent pro-
prietor from home, there was no absence of friendly cheer on
my presenting myself.

The lake above Inchgeelah is one that will repay the visiting.
It has already been remarked that it is separated from the
lower lake by a waterfall, up which the pike cannot ascend. It
is crowded with trout of a small size, but very delicious quality.
They will take any fliy that is not too large, and, as I fished for
them, I used seven flies, frequently bringing two, three, or four,
to land at once. The largest did not exceed half a pound.

Mr. B , of whom I have spoken, has here erected what is

termed a lodge, for the purpose of offering accommodation to
the visitor ; should it not be occupied by any previous applicant,
there is no danger of a refusal when applied for.

Having filled my basket with trout, and the rain beginning
to descend, I dispatched Owen for the pony which we had left
at a hut on the road. We were soon on our road, and bad
enough that is. Some of the acclivities we were obliged to
assist our pony to surmount. At length, however, an isolated
tower appeared in the valley — the once proud residence of
nobles, whose names exist no more. It is now the dreary retreat
of a few policemen, under whose protection is established an inn
— truly an inn of the desert — every second pane, as usual,
patched with paper, although obviously bearing indications of
an expensive structure. Through the village of Ballyvourneen,
if it may be so dignified, flows a branch of the river Lee, and on

44 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

it is erected a mill. The situation is splendidly picturesque,
formed by an abrupt valley flanked by declivitous masses of
rock.

No sooner had we arrived, and the refreshment Owen and
myself stood so much need of had been supplied, than I prepared
to try the stream at the mill-tail. It was now evening; the
cold rains had subsided, and, for the first time on these
mountains, the sun broke forth in peculiar splendour, tipping
all the rugged masses above us with gold. The face of the
landscape at once altered by the sudden gleam : and, with that
change, a change came o''er our sports. These were not damped
by the success we met. I found the fly useless, and betook
myself to the salmon-roe. In about one hour I had taken
thirty trouts ; not large, indeed, but of a very excellent quality.
It was quite dark as I retiuTied to the inn, resolving to devote a
day to this stream.

The untiring ardour of a sportsman, who has a new country
before him, is not difficult to account for ; but the elasticity of
spirits which kept up my attendant began now to excite my
surprise. He had walked nearly thirty miles of a mountainous
country — wet the whole day — ^yet ever cheerful, uncomplaining,
and full of alacrity. My own sense of weariness directed my
attention to his comforts. He modestly declined all but a little
tobacco which fortunately the inn supplied.

There is a good-humoured ingenuity in Owen''s mode of
making a request, which I should do him injustice in not re-
cording : —

" Well, Owen, I have determined to stay to-morrow, and try
the stream above the mill."

" It's your honour will kill the trout, to-morrow, any way."

" But I shall start early — what hour ? "

" Oh, your honour will never be too early ; and we'll see
Killamey in the evening."

"I hope we shall have better weather. The rains are
endless."

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 45

" To be sure, the rain will come down to-morrow, but your
honour's niver bothered by the rain. Oh, it will be fine weather,
anyhow, for your honour — it will be fine weather for me — rain
away — barring the price of tobacco.""

" But you'll be wet again, Owen, and you will have to put
on your wet clothes."

" That's barring the price of tobacco, you know."

Rain, wind, and damp clothes, were all one thing in the
consideration of my patient and ever cheerful companion, if
accompanied by tobacco. Of this I ordered a supply.

The desolation of the place, joined with the howling winds
without, threw me at once on the society of this wild philo-
sopher, who had rather adopted me as a master than I him for
a servant. The first glass of punch opened his heart, and I
found no difficulty in extracting his history. It was simple,
and more touching from his own lips than I can pretend to
render it. Perhaps it consists only of circumstances which are
of daily occurrence, yet I fear that a being in every respect so
kind, and generous, and devoted, is not frequently the inhabitant
of any country.

I have already said Owen was the sole support of an aged
mother, from whom no inducement could sever him. He was a
tall and gaunt figure, though of slight make, and of a counte-
nance sunken as with premature age. The eye, nevertheless,
bespoke intellect and vivacity, and would sometimes lighten in
an arch drollery, which gave great effect to his general conversa-
tion. He had been born and bred at Macroom, and though his
knowledge extended little beyond the streams of the neighbour-
ing valleys, his mind had cherished the most refined affections.
He had never swerved from his original bias, the native freedom
of the soul which animated him ; and this which in others of
better fortunes might have made a statesman of the highest
character, or a conqueror of countries, had made him a fisherman.
Wild was the sport — exciting and uncertain the effect of the
labour — calling and admitting no man his master, he felt that

46 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

he bounded over the well-known rocks, through which the rivers
dashed, a free man !

He had been betrothed to the daughter of a farmer, whose
home he had in his wanderings frequented. The idea of
marrying with fortune even enters into the calculations of
these cottagers ; and a small array of furniture, with the site
of a cottage and the promise of a lease, are considered a fair
ground on which a youth may propose for his bride. These
had not Owen ; and the absence of them was enough to ensure
his dismissal by the stem father of his light-haired girl, who,
nevertheless, admired his character and determinedly favoured
his suit. So rigid, however, was the guardianship of the father,
that little or no opportunity was afforded of their com-
municating. At length, in the general distress, when the
cholera visited these remote deserts, and, with a fatality
unknown in other and more civilised districts, the father fell
a victim to the raging contagion. A ban was put on his
house ; his little stock was seized for arrear of rent and tithe,
and all refused to receive the destitute and afflicted daughter
of a home where the deadly contagion had been known to rage.
Owen immediately brought her to his own humble home ; and
his aged mother, who ever adored her son, offered every con-
solation within her little means to assuage the anguish of the
afflicted girl.

Night and day did Owen traverse the mountain streams,
sometimes ten hours a day ; up to his middle in water, without
food or comfort did he throw his unattractive fly, in hope of
the success which would supply the means of subsistence for
his dependent family. The mind of the poor girl, by her
sudden calamities, and, perhaps, by long watching during her
father's disease, had contracted a melancholy which nothing
could alleviate. The devoted mother of Owen had watched
by the bed of her son's betrothed with unceasing affection,
while the lover spared no labour that would lead to the
production of those little comforts which her declining health

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 47

required. Strange that having by great success accumulated a
sovereign, he set off for Dublin on foot, without any provision
for his own expenses, but relying on the resources of the numerous
streams over which he must traverse for the supply of his
daily food and lodging (the latter I believe more frequently in
the clefts of the rocks than elsewhere), and all for the purpose
of consulting an eminent physician of whom he had heard !

Sad is the story of the invalid. The mother watched and
prayed by her bedside for three lingering months, while fell
consumption made its fearful and undeviating progress. She
died as my humble friend re-entered his cottage with the
prescription in his hand, and which he had that day borne
for fifty Irish miles, with bright anticipation of its sanative
effects. As he entered his lowly abode, the pallid lips of the
innocent cause of his labours could but bless his name, and
recommend to his unceasing care and affection his kind, en-
during, and benevolent mother, who never for an hour had
left the sufferer alone during his absence, but had even denied
herself common necessaries (and those, alas, in that country,
are contained only in potatoes and turf for fuel) to supply the
young and patient creature with the little comforts her store
could furnish.

She died, blessing the name of her betrothed ; with one hand
in that of the mother, and one embalmed in the tears of her
lover, she breathed forth a spirit as pure, as grateful, as angelic,
as ever inhabited the breast of the high-born daughters of
wealth and refinement.

" At that moment,^' said my humble companion, " I vowed
to cherish my mother ; at that moment I called on the
beloved being to hear my oath that nothing should separate
her from me ! No thought of other woman has entered my
mind from that day to this. I love my mother, not only
because she was ever a kind and good one, but because, in the
day of my distress and anguish, when my whole soul was
concentrated in another, she was my staff and my support.

48 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

She did for my angelic girl all that I had wished to do — my
only hope and incentive in life is her preservation and comfort
— to supply them I think no labour too much; and when,
after a day's disappointment, I return home with an empty
basket, I have the satisfaction of thinking that this is but
a test and a trial of my affection to my beloved parent ! "

These were not, indeed, Owen's words, but they were
faithfully his sentiments. The brogue with which they were
clothed rendered them more simple, but not the less affecting.
In a ragged mountaineer did this noble affection betray itself —
in the humble, laborious, and contented creature, who, for his
own gratification, amidst storms, and wet, and cold, and fatigue,
sought only a little tobacco, did I recognise as proud and as
honest a heart as ever dignified the form of man !

My readers will forgive this episode — I took it as it passed
me — I noted it amidst the search for amusement, and it gave
a train to my thoughts in studying Irish character, which may,
perhaps, be referred to the source by those who follow me.

Affection, filial affection, is the strongest trait in the
Irish character. In the course of all my travels never did I
see that sacred affection violated. In the number of their
children do the Irish peasantry rejoice — in the hope of an
early family do they marry young. They calculate on their
children as their wealth, and look upon their offspring as the
resources from whence, in age and in sickness, they must derive
their subsistence and their happiness. As yet there are no
poor-laws — ^Nature steps in and supplies the place of legislation
by the warm gratitude of the child to the parent. In every
cottage may be seen the decrepid and the infirm of the family
peacefully passing the remainder of their days, their wants
supplied by their children ; and I believe nothing would appear
to an Irish mountaineer more unnatural than the neglect of
filial duties. In England, the father, tired of the burden of
his children, seeks to be freed from the alliance ; and the child,
not unfrequently seeking amidst the world a better home,

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 49

neglects that of his infancy, and forgets the claims of those
to whom his being and early nurture are owing. Too frequently
may be seen the parents supplied by the parish with those
necessaries which would have been unnoticed in the luxurious
household of the child.

Nor does this state of things seem to create surprise, or to
excite reflection on an ingratitude so generally shared. In
Ireland it is otherwise; the ban would be put on that child
who should neglect to nurture and provide for the authors of
his being ; and, though other virtues be neglected, no quarter
would be shown to him who should forget the duties of the
child to the parent.

By four in the morning Owen was on the alert, and, with
pipe in mouth, rod in hand, was ready for the sport. We
fagged up the stream about a mile above the bridge, where we
found a broad expanse of water, not dignified by the name
of a lake, but designated the Inch.^ Here I changed my roe
for flies, and, after the second cast, found myself tolerably well
engaged with a white trout. Not, however, quickly reeling
up, I was suddenly astonished by a heavy weight, for which I
was little prepared. I was not long in ignorance : a pike had
taken a fancy to my trout. Of course I troubled him little.
My fly-gut stood till I had convinced myself of the determined
voracity of the creature, which would rather suffer himself to
be restrained by the line than abandon his prey.

Owen had secured a tolerable salmon; and, as usual, the
rains descended in almost heavy sheets of water rather than in
separated particles. We agreed, therefore, to abandon our post
at Ballyvoumeen, and push on for Killarney.

To this end our arrangements were soon made. Leaving
Owen to bring on the pony, I mounted the Cork and Killarney
coach.

We soon reached the river Flesk, at the point where the

1 A common name in all Erse or Gaelic districts, from inis, an island
or water-side meadow. — Ed.

E

60 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

Clydah pours in its waters, Avhich form by their junction a
broad and rapid stream, falling into the bosom of Killarney.
On ascending one of the hills, the whole view at once burst
on the sight. Lakes of immense extent, here and there dotted
with islands, covered the expanse, and called forth the liveliest

A Pike had taken my Trout.

feelings of admiration. The wild beauties of Switzerland seemed
here blended with a more sober variety of objects; while the
anticipations of the sportsman were excited by the beauteous
variety of water and mountain.

We now passed one of the prettiest modern objects in the
neighbourhood of Killarney — a castle on an abrupt ridge of the
Flesk, which, at the distance of the road, presents a very

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 61

imposing appearance. It is named, from the builder and
master, who has exhibited considerable taste in the choice of the
site, Coltsman Castle.

Although the Flesk, which runs by the castle, is at certain
seasons celebrated for the variety of its fish, it is by no means a
river to which I would direct the angler's attention. In the
summer, when the waters get low, no fish are to be found
beyond the smallest species of trout ; but, in the autumn, when
the mountain floods begin to descend, the whole tribe from the
lakes of Killarney push up to sandy and gravelly beds to lay
their spawn. This is the time when the spear is in requisition,
as the large trout and salmon may be found in the shallowest
parts, digging holes with a determination and strength that
would hardly be ascribed to them. They are easily taken, but
are out of season; and, though I have frequently fished this
stream through the autumn, I never took one fish which was
not sickly and poor. It would appear that the extensive waters
of the lakes are necessary to the renovation of trout, as the sea
is to the salmon after spawning.

As we approached the miserable cluster of houses which
constitute the town of Killarney, there was a manifest alteration
in the appearance of the peasantry ; and the baleful effects of
an indiscriminate generosity (if it may be so dignified) in the
visitors to this spot became everywhere conspicuous. There
were two gentlemen on the coach, armed with every implement
for the destruction of game and fish, but evidently as yet
unseasoned to the climate. It was not difficult to collect that
they were pel-feet gentlemen, their conduct throughout the
journey from Cork having evinced irrefragable proofs of their
claims. As the coach passed the ragged and shoeless creatures,
one amused himself by throwing halfpence, and at length
challenged a miserable -looking youth, who had pursued the
coach, by the offer of half a crown if he would keep up with us
a mile. The road was newly covered with broken flint, and the
lad's anxiety to select the shortest way wholly overcame the

62 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

caution which should have directed his steps. He had almost
achieved the undertaking, when the loss of blood from his
wounded feet, and want of power to continue the exertion,
overcame all his efforts, and he sank on the road amid the
violent laughter of the liberal patron who had excited his
attempt.

There is altogether a new character observable among the
poor, and they are the chief inhabitants of Killarney ; there is
idleness exemplified in its most intense degree ; and the effects
of it, among all classes of expectants, are almost sufficient to
deter the visitor from any long stay at these beautiful lakes.

CHAPTER VI

Arrival at Killarney — Strange Costume — Street Annoyances and Beggars
— Character of the Inhabitants of Killarney — Lord Kenmare and the
Lakes — Inn Accommodation — Doherty, the Fly-maker — The Lions of
the Lakes — The Major — Impudence and Imposition — Advantage of
Private Lodgings — Price of Provisions — Impositions of Innkeepers —
Hints to Anglers at Killarney — The Major's Narrative — Hoaxing — A
Fighting Tailor — The Major's Revenge.

On our arrival at Finn's Hotel, we were surrounded by a
host of human beings covered with rags, or having rags of all
possible variety of colour and fashion hanging from their bodies
rather than covering their bodies, the nether limbs of the more
juvenile being absolutely naked. The dress of the boys, even
those of twelve or fifteen years of age, was whimsical ; and, as I
find that it is a style which is everywhere adopted, I may as
well describe it particularly ; it consisted of some sort of jacket
and a shirt, the latter extending about a foot below the waist,
and hanging in strips, which, as the rough wind visited them,
formed flags little calculated to accomplish the purpose of
clothing.

Hundreds of men, women, and children flocked round the
coach, and beggars of all descriptions impeded the entrance into
the inn. All seemed bent on one determined purpose — that of
robbing the unfortunate traveller ; some by prayers for long life
to him, others by offers of assistance to see the lakes, others by
the display of the most trumpery specimens of shells, little boxes
made of the arbutus tree which abounds on the islands of the lakes,

54 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

by the offer of flies, etc. ; the whole constituting such a din and
clamour as make a hasty retreat into the inn a work of difficulty
as well as necessity.

The crowds of idlers of all descriptions which constitute the
residents of this town exhibit the character of the Irish in an
unfavourable light, and may, by persons who extend their
inquiries no farther than a visit to Killarney, be mistaken for
the general one.

Here are congregated an immense mass of persons who are
attracted by the hope of gome good fortune, which they suppose
is to arise from the numerous and wealthy visitors who arrive in
search of the picturesque. Through the winter they have no
settled employment; they rely upon the coming summer for
their store, of which they never accomplish the accumulation ;
and though more money is, I doubt not, spent at Killarney than
in any other town in Ireland of equal population, poverty is
nowhere more extreme, or wretchedness more congregated. They
are, nevertheless, a romantic and problematical race.

It is their object to appear as poor and destitute as possible.
They fully expect you to open your purse the moment you look
into their cabin, and have no notion but that every visitor's
business is to give something to them. Too indolent to make
provision for the future, and unassisted in their extremity by
poor-laws, they are infected by a sort of constitutional disposition
to begging, which enervates their own energies, destroys all
feeling of manhood, and renders them a speculative and chance-
calculating set, every one looking for some singular advantage
which is to arise they know not how or when ; perhaps by the
providential advent of a stranger, or the all-promised influence
of O'Connell. Meanwhile, however, it is not worth the trouble
to set their house in order, or to do anything that is not
absolutely necessary to their present existence. If you ask a
wretched naked Killarney man to hold your horse for five minutes,
he expects you will throw him at least a sovereign for the trouble,
and looks with wonder at a few halfpence. Every man of this

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 65

class looks in the smallest service for enormous gains ; and he
would rather wait in expectation of such a remuneration for a
year than secure that which is within his reach by steady
industry.

This disposition to begging and hope of accidental advantage
has banished every feeling of independence. If any landlord
should build comfortable cottages (as some have), the people
would only inhabit them in their own way, viz. by making
pigsties of them. They make no effort at cleanliness; and
though the interior of their cabins, which are here of the most
wretched description, is ever black with the smoke of the turf —
and though they have lime at every corner, and in such abund-
ance that it needs only the fetching — you would never induce
one to apply it to his walls ; if he did so, it would give an air
of cleanliness and comfort to his habitation, much against his
disposition and his interest ; he would appear too happy to excite
commiseration ; his landlord would expect some rent, which is
ordinarily paid by an appeal to the debtor's utter destitution ;
and begging (the besetting vice of the town) would be less
profitable. The pride of independence and the endeavour to
make appearance of well-doing, which are generally seen among
the lowest orders of the English, are here wholly reversed, where
a wretch deems himself rich in proportion to his poverty, and
appeals ever to his squalid destitution, which he regards as the
best means of getting a livelihood.

Although arrived at Killarney, so kindly has the main land-
lord dealt by the inhabitants and visitors that from no part of
the town can the lakes be seen. The great charm which the
view of those lovely waters is calculated to create is effectually
extinguished by the high walls and inclosed domain of the Earl
of Kenmare, the proprietor of nearly the whole of this side the
lake. This he has walled in, wholly depriving the town of
Killarney of any peep at the waters, which, I suppose, his lord-
ship deems his own.

On my alighting at the inn, I found tolerable accommoda-

66 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

tion. I was surrounded at the door by a host of ^2/-mongers.
Crowds of fishermen and boatmen beset the inn at the news of
an arrival ; and many with books of flies, which there could be
no hesitation in pronouncing the greatest impositions on the
unsuspecting stranger. Among these was a veteran in the fly-
tackle manufacture, one Doherty, who has a hump-backed son,
with some ingenuity. He showed me an immense collection of
gaudy affairs, for which he demanded an enormous price. To
get rid of him, I bought a few, manifestly to the chagrin and
displeasure of Owen, who had just come up with the pony, and
who did all that winks and nods could do to save my money.
'' Sure now, Misther Doherty, his honour knows right well you're
a capital fly-maker and fisherman anyhow; but his honour
knows the wathers, and ifs meself that knows 'em too, Misther
Doherty, so don't be bothering his honour just now."

" Och, is it yourself, Misther Owen, that wants to tache me ?
My flies are the only flies for the wathers here. His honour
will want a boat, to be sure, and it's meself, too, will have the
getting."

" Troth and it's never yerself, honey, that'll have the getting
the boat."

" Boat, your honour, for the upper lakes to-morrow ? "

Four or five free and easy gentlemen, under the disguise of
sailors, now thrust themselves half a foot in the door. " There's
the Eagle's Cliff*, your honour ; and there's the wonderful echo
of Ross Castle, where, if you ask Paddy Blake how he is, it's
himself will say pretty well, thank ye ! "

Pestered with this posse comitatus, not to mention the
additional annoyance of the windows and doors surrounded with
beggars, from among whom escape were hopeless, in endeavour-
ing to see the town, I was glad to excuse myself by ringing for
the landlord, who did not think the intrusion of so many
applicants for my patronage at all unseemly or uncommon.
With some difficulty, therefore, I deferred my arrangements, and
dispatched Owen to see if Major , my Macroom friend, had

Among them was one Doherty "

Facing page 56.

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 57

arrived at home on the banks of the lake at Cloreen, where he
had given me his address.

In about an hour the major returned, and insisted on my
forthwith coming to his cottage, where he had some of the best
whiskey in all Kerry. I found under the major''s protection a
manifest difference in the importunity of the beggars, bugle-men,
and boatmen, who retired when they saw the major. " Faith,""
said he, " and ye may thank me for saving ye from the train of
locusts which infest the place. Not a boat goes up the lakes
(for they are all in the hands of the two innkeepers, and their
lubberly, idle crew) for less than two pounds a day, what with
aiting, and drinking, and bugling, and humbug. These fellows
play into one another's hands, and get a dishonest livelihood, bad
luck to 'em. FU have the honour myself to show you the lakes,
and, if we have a wind to-morrow, some tolerable sport."

As I purposed to stay at Killarney some time, I did at once
what I strongly recommend all sojourners there at once to do.
By the major's assistance I engaged very comfortable private
apartments at eighteen shillings a week, including attendance,
fire, and cooking. I then visited the market-house, which was
well supplied with abundance of sea-fish and meat. The prices
were as follows: — pork, 2d. per pound; beef, 3d. to S^d.;
mutton, 4d. ; a cod-fish, six pounds. Is. ; fowls, lOd. a pair ;
chickens, from 6d. to S^d. ; potatoes, 4^d. per stone.

With all the necessaries of life, therefore, at so cheap a ratio,
it is rather surprising that the inn charges should be as large at
Killarney as in London ; and it shows how necessary it is that
strangers, by their arrangements, should defeat such unfair
imposts.

My next step was to secure a boat ; this the major kindly
undertook, and agreed with a man at Ross Island, at four
shillings per week, for a small, but very convenient one for
fishing.

I am particular in all these matters, because, without this
information, English anglers and tourists will be deceived by

68 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

the persuasions of persons, that the lakes can only be properly
visited in one of the inn boats, at a charge, for crew and all, of
about two pounds per day; an amount very ill suited to the
real amusements of the sportsman. The fisherman, indeed,
requires privacy ; and fishing from a boat, with a crew of ten
or twelve, would be useless.

These arrangements complete, I accompanied the major to
his cottage, where no sooner had we arrived than the proof
of friendship was produced — "the matarials''; and no sooner
had he dispatched the first tumbler, and given all directions
necessary to his two gardeners, and boatmen, and domestic
servants (for two ragged good-tempered boys fulfilled all those
offices) than I could perceive that a suppressed rage was forcing
its way to ebullition. By his second tumbler, and when he had
been joined by one of two of his fiiends whom he had sent for
to meet me, he became communicative. His first injunction to
me was, that I should be aware how I accepted the acquaintance
of any Killamey visitors. A wound was still rankling in his
bosom.

It would be difficult to follow the major through the dis-
jointed variety of his exclamations, by which he made me
understand the source of his chagrin, for a true knowledge of
which I was indebted rather to the running commentary of his
friend than to his own explanations. It appeared that two
gentlemen had arrived at Killamey, armed with all the im-
plements of piscatorial destruction which cockneyism could
devise. Hearing that the major was the genius loci., they had
presented their compliments to him, and requested the honour
of sharing a bottle with him, an invitation the major could not
answer to the rubicundity of his nose, if he had refused. After
some time, the strangers informed the major that it was their
intention to make a book — a vice very common amongst all
visitors to Killarney ; and hinted not very delicately that the
inhabitants of Killamey had better pay respect to them, if they
valued a good character with Europe and the world. Now the

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 59

major had a great contempt for books and book-makers ; and
had, I believe, seen, during his residence at Killarney, as many
of the latter as the former. Hereupon the major had begged
to be informed of the nature of the intended work, and, finding
it was to celebrate the wondrous beauty of the lakes, at once
had proffered all his knowledge and assistance. These had been
gratefully accepted.

We have said that the major mortally hated books — and
especially that kind of book-making rather prevalent among
the English — which professes to enlighten the world on matters
which they, the book-makers, have gathered from the foolish
impressions of an ignorant peasantry or prejudiced natives.
The major was determined that the wonders of Killarney should
not be forgotten amongst the gentlemen's notes, and forthwith
proceeded to describe the wonders of the Deaf Lake, a small
pool so called, at the top of one of the mountains that surround
the town. He explained that the most extraordinary pheno-
menon existing in Ireland, and for which philosophy had been
wholly unable to offer any explanation, was this — that though
the lake was not more than three hundred yards wide, yet it
was impossible to convey across it any sound. This, he said,
had been frequently tried, and he offered to accompany one of
his new friends to the morning''s trial. So singular a pheno-
menon was worthy of note ; but the major made a stipulation
that one only should attend the trial.

After considerable labour, they the next morning had
reached the pool ; and the major, planting his friend on the one
side, proceeded himself to the other. He then commenced a
series of grimaces and contortions, indicative of the most
boisterous efforts to convey some words to his listening com-
panion, who adopted the most approved system of acoustics, by
putting his hands to his ears and stretching as far as possible
over the verge of the lake. Not the slightest sound reached
him. The surprised listener now ran round to the major and
protested that he could not hear one word, although it was

60 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

manifest that the major had made every possible effort. They
then changed places ; and great, indeed, was the surprise of the
stranger to find all his bellowings met only by the same efforts
on the part of the major that he himself had previously used.

" Is it possible you did not hear me ? '*"

" Not a word."

" Why, I shouted as loudly as possible.""*

" You seemed to do so. I could perceive you were opening
your mouth and inflating your lungs, but no sound reached me.*"

" Did you not hear me request you to speak out, major .'*'"

" Certainly not."

"Wonderful!"

On their return, the expressions of astonishment were
repeated, and the time of descending the mountain was fully
occupied in discussing the merits of so wonderful a case.

Here, had the joke rested, it had been more satisfactory;
but the note-taking stranger published the unexplained mystery
so ubiquitously, that he soon became aware of the imposition
which had been practised on his credulity, and purposed most
furiously to resent it.

In a day or two, our major received an intimation that an
explanation or an apology would be necessary, and he heartily
d d himself and the note-making knight together — him-
self for volunteering a dangerous joke, and the other that he
had so little Irish blood in his veins as to be unable to bear it.
As an apology was out of the question, the old pistols were
rubbed up. The affair, however, getting wind, both the parties
were summoned before a magistrate, and then a singular dis-
covery was made. To the magistrate's question as to his
station in life, our note-maker first described himself as a
gentleman.

"Of what class .?^"

" Of the London class."

" Have you any trade or profession ? "

" Yes, a profession."

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 61

"What is that?''

" Am I bound to answer ? ""

" I conceive so.*"

With much hesitation, therefore, he confessed that he was
an eminent tailor in Bond Street.

The indignation of the major now broke out. "What,"
said he, " have I been wasting my time and lowering my honour
by associating with a tailor! Thunder and turf! he is the
first snip that ever cut me before. To be called out by a snip ! '"*

Whereupon he appealed to the magistrates, and expressed
his hope that the tailor might be instantly transported, at
least, for having offered so incurable an indignity to an officer
in his Majesty's service.

The magistrate, seeing that the affair could go no farther,
dismissed the case; but the major's indignation could not be
stayed ; he deemed it his duty to give full explanations of his
blamelessness in the affair. Indeed, so cast down had the major
been by the dishonom- of having been called to account by the
tailor, that he had scarcely been able to face his friends until
that day, when an unhoped-for revenge was by accident thrown
in his way. The tailors had been shooting on the lake. By ill
luck the boat was capsized just as the major and his little crew
were passing them. The major's magnanimity prevailed — he
saved them — but could not resist the admonition which the
circumstance suggested.

" Oh, Bubaboo !" cried the major, having brought both into
his boat. "By the powers, you should be after staying at
home and minding your own hot goose, and not be bothering
here to get nothing but a cold duck."

The tailors were no more seen; but the major still boiled
with abhorrence of Killarney note-making visitors.

CHAPTER VII

First Day on the Lake — Ross Castle — Splendid View — Accidental Sport —
A Disappointment — The Evil of Sight-gazing — Scarcity of Salmon in
the Lakes — Island of Innisfallen — An Impromptu Breakfast — Beauties
of the Island — The Monastery — Coasting, — Famous Sport — The
Eagle's Nest — Extraordinary Echoes — The Pass — ^The Lower Lake —
Residence of Mr. Hyde, Rector of Killarney — Trouting — Directions
for Bait — How to astonish the Natives — Wonderful success of Salmon-
roe — Lord Kenmare's Cottage — An Angler's Dinner — Turk Lake —
Its Monster Trout — Angling Exploit of Lady Headley — The Major in
his Glory — Enormous Trout — More Hints to Sportsmen at Killarney.

It was a cool, cloudy, yet, to the sportsman, a beautiful morn-
ing, as I entered my little boat, which Owen had already
brought to the landing-place of Ross Island, with a view of
trying the first or lower lake, sufficient of itself, indeed, to
supply a continued change of fishing-ground for some weeks.

Ross Castle, which is the only place allowed for embarka-
tion, is an ancient ruin of some beauty. It consists of a lofty
square tower with embattlements, on the very verge of the lower
lake. From the castle itself the view is splendid, and will repay
the trouble of mounting ; it forms a perfect panorama of
Mangerton, Turk, and Glena mountains, and the lakes which
are named from them.

There was an aspect of gloom over the lake, which, in the
opinion of Owen, augured favourably for a salmon. We first
mounted, therefore, two salmon flies of a temperate order, and
started for what is called the salmon course. That is, the deep
ridges by the sides of the several islands which everywhere spot

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 63

the lakes of Killarney. It is to be rioted that for salmon fishing
these courses must be strictly observed, while trout will only be
found on the flats in the neighbourhood of the shores.

The wind being off Ross Castle, we at once suffered the
boat to drift, and began our cast. As we continued to throw
with the wind, and before the boat, the lower lake in all its
majesty opened by very gentle degrees, and expanded itself in
boundless beauty. As we drove onward, the noble Toomies
and Glena arose, abruptly and boldly, from the very bosom of
the waters. Overcome by so singularly beautiful a scene, I had
thrown down my rod, and had almost unconsciously taken the
pencil, the boat still drifting down the course. O'Donoghue's
Prison, a perpendicular rock, thirty feet from the surface, now
presented itself; having passed which, the modest, arbutus -
clothed island, Innisfallen, came in view. It is a spot covered
with verdure, and in charming contrast with the barren pro-
montories which everywhere else presented themselves. As I
was engaged in contemplating the agreeable variety it presented,
I was startled by Owen's sudden exclamation : " Oh, bad luck to
it, but your honour's rod is gone : a salmon, huzza ! '"

I had just seized the reel as it was passing the edge of the
boat, and found that I had indeed a heavy fish to contend with.
He held taken the fly while trailing (as it is here called) behind
the boat, the breeze just giving sufficient way to keep the fly
on the surface. Now came the tug of war. The danger of
being Avrecked was imminent, for rocks everywhere surrounded us,
while the power of the fish gave evident proof that he was fresh
from the sea. All difficulties, however, appeared in a few minutes
to have been overcome, and my prize was at the surface, hardly
capable of another effort. While just on the point of drawing
him gently to the boat, that Owen might gaff him, the mouth
gave way, and the fish remained at two or three yards distance,
motionless on the water; before, however, we could approach
him, he recovered his power, and slowly moved downward.

Our disappointment was extreme ; Owen threw the hat from

64 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

his head, and tore his hair. " If your honour had been minding

the fly, perhaps '' Owen hardly dared to proceed, but it was

manifest he thought I had ill-managed the fish. I was in disgi'ace,
it was clear. " But,"" said Owen, " your honour played him well.""

Fortune seldom forgives a bungler, and we had no further
chance of a salmon, having now completed the whole course.
We, therefore, put on our trout flies, and drifted towards
Innisfallen. In this kind of fishing we were immediately suc-
cessful ; and, indeed, scarcely a cast was made as we approached
the land without a rise. It was not long, therefore, before we
had secured two dozen trout, though not any of very large size
— generally from a quarter to half a pound each.

The great decrease of salmon in the lakes of Killamey is
attributable to the river fishery established all up the Laune,
of which we shall afterwards speak, by nets. The run from the
sea to the lakes does not exceed twelve miles ; the river is drawn
at every spot calculated for the halt of the fish, nightly ; and
few, therefore, now escape to the lakes. Indeed, the salmon
fishery of the lakes may be considered almost extinct, though
sufficient is still taken by nets on the shallows to supply the
town at 4d. per pound.

We now landed on Innisfallen, which was spread with a
beautiful carpet of verdure. Here and there are occasional
openings, which, through the luxuriance of the foliage, give
views of the lake. The lofty trees, in almost every variety,
form arbours of considerable extent ; and amongst them the
arbutus, which appears to have been indigenous. Smith, in his
history of Kerry, seems to think that it was first planted by the
monks on this island, an opinion which its existence on all
the other islands seems to contradict.^

We now descried the major''s boat rowing hard towards the
island, and we made a signal that we recognised him. He was
soon with us, accompanied by his two men-of-all-work, and a

^ The arbutus is indigenous to this district, and to no other part of the
British Isles. — Ed.

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 65

bugler. " By the powers, and you were stirring early this cool
morning ; that's a proof of the sportsman ; what luck ? "^

We exhibited our trout, and related our discomfiture ; he
expressed his surprise at our having met a salmon so early in
the season, for which he said he had now ceased to fish on the
lakes, at least till the autumn should return. But from his
boat was produced a fine lake trout of five pounds, which he
had taken by trailing. The lads were active, and in a few
minutes an excellent turf fire was blazing; three sticks, gipsy
fashion, were stuck up, the tea-kettle was boiling, the cloth
laid on the velvet green, and the trout suspended for roasting.
The major had not forgotten a good dried salmon, which,
broiled with some of the smaller trout, furnished forth a noble
breakfast.

We employed some time in rambling over the island, which
has been so long and so generally celebrated for every species
of romantic invention. I find that Archdall speaks of the
monastery, the remains of which give grandeur to the otherwise
beautiful spot. He says that, in 1180, "this abbey being ever
esteemed a paradise and a secure sanctuary, the treasure and
most valuable effects of the whole country were deposited in
the hands of her clergy, notwithstanding which this abbey was
plundered by Maoldwin, son of Daniel O'Donoghue ; many of
the clergy were slain, and even in their cemetery, by the
McCarthys.''

It is said that a collection of bones were discovered beneath
the threshold of the oratory, and supposed to have been the
bones of the clergy thus slain. I think, however, the practice
of making the islands of these lakes burying - grounds, which
will be noticed of Lake Waterville, will give a better account
of them.

Having sufficiently admired the beauties of Innisfallen, we
now proceeded to coast the other islands, and the day's sport
began in earnest. The major's boat having di'awn off about
a hundred yards, we both drifted towards a cluster of rocks.

66 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

There were two rods going from each boat; and, as the sun
occasionally broke forth and was again clouded, we found as
much as we could do in taking trout. At mid -day the
major hailed us, and, on comparing notes, we found our
number to be 67, his 108 — all fish of the same character,
and about the same size. We, therefore, set forth, wearying
of the monotony of trouting, towards the pass of the upper
lake, the major being the leader.

At the Eagle's Nest, which is a splendid promontory over-
hanging the pass between the lakes, an explosion took place
that had been nearly fatal to my equilibrium, as I was standing
in the boat, and carelessly throwing my fly as Owen rowed.

" Ha, ha ! " said the major ; " d'ye hear the answers ? "

These were the echoes from the different mountains, which
returned many times the sound of the major's duck-gun, which
he had just discharged, and as distinctly as the original explosion,
till it died into a kind of thunder. The succeeding silence,
broken only by the dashing of the waterfalls which supply the
lakes, was singularly impressive, and we paused on the oars to
enjoy the change. After a few minutes the major's bugle sent
forth a shrill blast, which was repeated in a varying key from
mountain to mountain ; the scream of the rock birds formed a
chorus, and the mountains seemed to vivify.

We now came to the pass of the Old Weir Bridge. The
lakes were not high, and the small river which separates them
was hardly deep enough to allow our boats to be rowed up.
We, therefore, lightened burdens, while one lad brought the
boats through.

The sight of the upper lake was more surprising, though
not of such extended beauty as the lower. The shores are
abruptly rocky, and there are few places that will admit of a
landing. The islands, which are numerous, present less beauty
than those of the lower lake. On a green base, however,
between the lofty ranges of mountains, may be observed one
dot of white, surrounded by plantations of variegated hues.

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 67

It is the residence of Mr. Hyde, a clergyman, and rector of
Killamey, and forms the only feature which recalls one from
the belief that we are in an uninhabited wild.

At the major's instance we now changed our tackle, and
for flies substituted small trout of two or three inches long,
which the major had provided, and which will be readily found
in all the little brooks falling into the lakes. These we put
on in the following manner: pass one large hook, the curve
of which should be a full inch, through the mouth and body
of the bait, and bring the hook out through the tail, so that
part of the body may be on the curve, in order to make the
bait spin well. Then, with a needle, sew up the mouth of the
bait, and fasten it tightly to the hook to prevent its slipping.
This done, attach two good swivels to the line, and let out
thirty yards as the boat is gently rowed. One rod from each
side the boat will keep all clear.

Having thus provided ourselves, we proceeded to row
round the lake, which is of about two or three miles in length,
and, in places, of about one broad ; nor had we traversed far,
before an halloo from the major indicated his success. He had
taken a sea trout of four or ^ve pounds. While he was holding
up the fish for our admiration, a sudden check was given to
one of my own rods, and a clattering of the reel called me
into action. This was a good beginning ; for, in a few minutes,
I was in possession of a lake trout of about six pounds. I
did not, however, succeed so well afterwards ; for, though
there were several runs, the inconvenient manner in which the
hook is necessarily placed defeated its object. By this mode
of fishing it more frequently happens that the hook takes
effect outside the mouth, as the running fish always seizes its
prey in the middle.

Having now arrived at the top of the lake, we entered a
fine rapid river. It was my turn to instruct the major; my
tackle soon changed — I produced the salmon-roe.

Owen began to smile in anticipation of the surprise by

68 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

which the major and his crew would be overwhelmed, as I
ti-udged up the rocky banks. This is a river which feeds the
upper lake, and is apparently its principal spring. It falls
from the mountains through a long chain of cataracts and
alternate bog valleys, which, though difficult and sometimes
dangerous to get through, will amply repay the enterprising
bait-fisher who shall visit it. At Killarney the fly or trailing
only are in use, neither of which is suited to the fishing of a
river of this description. Yet it is in this river, being the
head of the lakes, that the fish are commonly found of the
best order and size. A fly would be useless on the surface of the
boiling whirlpools below the cataracts, and trailing impossible.

Having loaded my line with a heavy bullet, I stopped at
the first fall, and commenced the fatal mode of angling. Fatal
— as I believe it to be the only certain mode of taking trout,
salmon, and all of that order, without reference to weather
or season.

The major was incredulous, and smiled. Having examined
my tackle and the bait, he pronounced it more curious than
effective, and was certain, whatever effect it might produce
elsewhere, it could avail nothing in Ireland.

"By the powers, but that's an odd kind of fishing,"" said
the major, whose countenance had undergone a complete
change as he saw me deliberately land a fine trout of two
pounds, and immediately drop my line into the same place.
Trout after trout appeared in continued succession, till the
major declared he would burn his flies, for the true secret of
fishing remained yet to be learned.

"The divil a fish any soul but yourself can extract from
this execrable river,*" exclaimed the major, "though we all
well knew that the finest fish are to be found up this stream
in the spring. Netting is out of the question — flies useless —
groping impossible — so that we have been always constrained
to regard this bog as holy ground, which would never repay
the angler for traversing."'

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 69

Here was the day's best sport, but, as I felt that it was at
the expense of the major's pleasure, after having secured a dozen
fine fish from one fall, I put up my tackle, resolved when alone
to revisit this river, and abandon the fly-fishing on the lake.
Some few days after I did so ; and putting up at a little cabin
on the Kenmare road, six miles from Killarney, and dignified by
the name of the half-way house, I had incredible success on the
banks of the stream. The only drawback was the wretched
accommodation at night, it being nothing more than a pallet
and what covering my own clothes afforded, used blanket- wise ;
while the whole culinary catalogue of the hut was comprised in
one pot to boil potatoes. If, however, any succeeding angler
should, warned by my example, take with him all the necessaries,
he will find the poor people willing to afford him all they have —
their labour and attention ; while the sacred river — for so I
must term it — will prove an inexhaustible fund of amusement.

On our return homeward we again landed at the cottage
belonging to Lord Kenmare, which contains a room for the
accommodation of visitors, and affords a decent salle a manger
for those who bring the mangibles with them. Although
persons live at the cottage, and, under the hope of very con-
siderable and disproportionate remuneration, afford you an
opportunity of cooking, yet they are permitted to sell nothing.
If, instead of this kind of rental, his lordship had procured a
proper license to allow some decent person to sell for the relief
of visitors on the lake, who are frequently overtaken by un-
expectedly boisterous weather, and who have not provided
themselves, the accommodation had been more complete. Here,
however, the foresight of the major was not at fault. A collec-
tion of all his little household would afford was quickly spread
before us, and, I believe, the air of the lakes had well qualified
us to do all his preparations justice. We made trial of the
large lake trout, which, though of a deeper red than the salmon,
was not equal in flavour to the inviting appearance. It was
dry, and required the assistance of condiments, with which, of

70 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

course, we were not provided. The smaller trout, however, are
delicious. They should be scored crosswise, and put on a grid-
iron ; no further preparation is requisite to render them a most
agreeable dish.

Our repast finished, we returned through the pass ; and the
major, having reloaded his gun, repeated the experiment of the
echoes ; but they Avere by no means so clear or distinct, as by
this time the wind had arisen. To hear them under every
advantage, the day should be still ; the reverberations are then
perfect.

Having regained the lower lake, we found that it had lost
all its solitary grandeur. Numerous boats floated on its surface ;
parties, accompanied by flags and bands of music (if so execrable
an association of performers can be so called), were everywhere
seen and heard, while we made the best of our way to Turk
Lake.

This, after an hour^s hard row, we reached. Turk Lake is
separated from the grand, or lower lake, by a range of islands.
There are two passages into it ; that by the side of Denis island,
on the Glena side, is the most convenient, and certainly the
most agreeable route.

On entering the lake the ear is immediately arrested by the
sullen roar of a distant cascade, which falls through a chasm
which separates Turk from Mangerton mountain, and forms one
continued sheet of foam from the fall to the basin below, and
thence, through a bridge, joins the lake. Although this lake is
generally esteemed the best for the sportsman, and does some-
times yield trout of a better character than either the upper or
lower lake, the height of the mountains, which on all sides
surround it, renders it generally so calm that few opportunities
exist of effectually throwing the fly on its waters.

After some attempts, which were attended by no success, I
proposed to proceed to the fall, and again try the bait under
the cataract. Here I was again successful; and, after having
secured several fine specimens of the dark lake trout, the major

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/ /:

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THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 71

seized my hand in an ecstasy of delight, and protested that I
was the only English angler who he had ever believed under-
stood anything of the art. He insisted on my passing one day
more with him on the lake at the top of Mangerton, to which,
the next morning, we proceeded.

The lake to which I allude is Lake Gutane, four miles from
Killarney. We arrived there in my pony gig, and found a boat
in waiting. The fly was not attempted, as, in this lake, trout
of fifty and sixty pounds are to be found, which can only be
taken by trailing. Here Lady Headley succeeded in landing a
trout of twenty -seven pounds weight. Although that size is
considered ordinary, it was spoken of as an exploit worthy of
being recorded ; performed, as it was, by a lady.

For two hours we were wholly unsuccessful, until a breeze,
or rather a gale of wind, began to create some anxiety as to our
power of keeping the windward side of the lake. With the
boat running rapidly before the wind, smash went the rod in
the middle. Owen secured the butt, and we now found our-
selves in a most dangerous position. To abandon the fish,
which was obviously a monster, was impossible; indeed, had
certain destruction been before Owen, he would never have
yielded his hold. Meanwhile, the boat was drifting rapidly
towards the rocks, and I was myself obliged to seize the oars ;
and employing all the strength of which I was master, hailed, in
terms of distress, the major, who, in the other boat, made the
best of the way to our assistance. Here, indeed, the major was
great. He jumped from his own boat to ours, directing the
lads to take us in tow, and brought the trout to the best bearing
he could with the broken tackle. An hour at least was employed
before we could safely anticipate success. The fish was sullen,
and would frequently betake himself to the bottom, whence,
until he pleased, it was impossible to dislodge him. Luckily,
however, he ran towards the middle of the lake, and we were
safe from the rocks which threatened danger to ourselves and
release to him.

72 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

" Forty pounds, on the honour of a British officer ! *" exclaimed
the major.

I ventured to express my disbelief.

" Forty pounds to an ounce ; feel him.^**

The major placed the rod for a moment in my hands. The
effect was that of being fast to a log of wood, which occasionally
rose and descended — nothing more. After the major had
gradually reeled up a great portion of his line, before he or any
of us expected it, the creature gave a bound from the surface,
three or four yards high, and exhibited, indeed, one of the
monsters of the Loch Gutane. The major's dexterity was now
really worthy of admiration. The rod was down in a moment,
so that his antagonist took nothing by his leap. That was his
last effort ; he soon appeared on the surface, occasionally shewing
the whiteness of his stomach, and was cautiously and safely
gaffed by Owen.

The length was two feet one inch and a quarter, which,
however, was very disproportionate to his weight ; he appeared
to have grown only in thickness and breadth ; and, on our
weighing him in the evening, at the major's cottage, he proved
to be just nineteen pounds and some ounces.

The major protested he never was out before — that my
tackle had deceived him — and that he despised the capture from
the unnecessary trouble it had given.

Several times during my stay at Killarney I fished this lake
with no better success than two or three trouts of from two to
five pounds : and, although I do not doubt that there are still
to be found fish of from forty to fifty pounds, yet the distance
is too great to enable the sportsman to fish for those of the
larger size at the proper time, viz. at daybreak in the morning,
or late in the evening. The road down the mountain is
dangerous, and though I intended for this purpose to have
passed one night on the banks of the lake for the purpose
alluded to, so many new and interesting scenes of action
presented themselves, that I did not realise my intention. It

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 73

would be quite worth a night^s trial ; and I am assured that the
enterprising sportsman who would fish during the night with a
very light-coloured trout, well swivelled, would be rewarded by
a prize worthy his perseverance. The lake is very little known,
and seldom attempted, from its dreary position among the most
frightful mountains which even this wild scenery presents.

CHAPTER VIII

The Rivers — Residences of James and John O'Connell — Lord Kenmare —
The Gap of Dunloe — Major Mahony — Beaufort Bridge — Residence
of Mr. MuUins, Member for Kerry — The River Laune — Excellent
Sport — Izaak Walton — ^The Major incredulous — Sporting extraordinary
— A Cure for Everything — Killarney Scandal — Lord Headley — The
Irish Agents — A Stag-Hunt in the Lake — Extraordinary Scene of
Irish Jollity — Timber-Hunting in the Bogs — Extinct Animals — Un-
popularity of Lord Kenmare — Reasons for it — Beauties and Merits of
Killarney as a Watering Place.

Having now tried all the lakes, I took leave of the major's kind
surveillance, and, accompanied by Owen, proceeded to try the
rivers; the most beautiful of which is that which carries the
united waters of the lakes into the Castlemaine Bay, and thence
into Dingle Bay and the Atlantic. This river, which is in the
lower part continually disturbed by netting for salmon, is little
fished by the angler; the lakes presenting a much broader
expanse, and a much more convenient bosom for the fall of
the fly.

There is a good road by the side of the lake, by which are
passed the residences of James O'Connell and John O'Connell,
brothers of the immortal Daniel, and gentlemen of independent
possessions ; retired in their mode of living, and, I believe, highly
respected and beloved by all parties, even here, where the per-
verse conduct of Lord Kenmare, himself a Catholic and a
professed reformer, has occasioned a dissension among those who
are professedly liberal in their politics.

The fall of the stream from the lake is at first hardly

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 75

perceptible, but increases as it advances to a noble river ; it is
bounded by varied and bold banks, covered with trees, and, to
the fly-fisher, almost inaccessible. It here receives several tribu-
taries, and, if the lakes of Killarney were absent, would alone
form a fishing station of no ordinary promise. Passing along
its banks, we arrive at the opening, celebrated as the Gap of
Dunloe, at the foot of which is situated the residence of Major
Mahony. It is a wild and sudden severance of the mountains
which confine the lake, through which there is a mountain pass,
and now a road of considerable picturesque beauty. The en-
trance to the Gap is very naiTow, and the mountains on either
side are perpendicular. The pass is directed by the side of a
small black lake — black from the reflection of the high and per-
pendicular mountains which overshadow it — and narrows so
fearfully, yet so wildly, that many have failed in achieving the
ascent from the horror which is calculated to overwhelm timid
and nervous persons.

These magnificent scenes, which make the passes of Borrow-
dale and the DeviPs Bridge mere nature's toys, the angler will
leave unexplored, and pursue his journey to Beaufort Bridge, a
handsome structure, leading to the lodge and park of the
Honourable Mr. Mullins, member for Kerry.

Into the park the angler may enter, without let or hindrance ;
the porter of the lodge will civilly open the gate for his admis-
sion, and, though the grounds for nearly a mile on the banks
are beautifully and tastefully laid out, he will find himself free
as air to pursue his sport. In all probability he will receive an
invitation to avail himself of the accommodation of the house,
which stands at no great distance from the river.

From March to May there is no better sport for the angler,
content to seek what is here called the brown trout, than may
be found in the river Laune. Its extent is about twelve miles,
Steven of which are well calculated for the salmon-roe ; and here,
on Owen's arrival with the pony, and such refreshments as I had
ordered him to bring, I had, from the bridge falls alone, extracted

76 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

upwards of eighty of good size and in excellent season. Owen
had now given up all surprise at the use of the bait, and con-
fessed he was no fisherman. He, therefore, occupied his time
in laying the cloth, which he had brought, on the green lawn,
before the house of Mr. Mullins, and close to the verge of the
river. A neighbouring cottage added to our treat the luxuries
of hot potatoes and boiled trout ; and, as we sat down to our
repast, I threw my line into the river and lodged my rod on a
tree. Not a moment had I to enjoy Owen''s ample arrange-
ments ; no sooner had I selected my fare than a tug at the rod
required my attention; and, indeed, so magical was the bait,
that it appeared (which I believe to be the fact) to have con-
gregated the fish. My success on this river was so great, that I
fear to weary my reader by recounting it ; but it must be re-
membered that this mode of fishing was w^holly new, and that
the bank, from which my rod was suspended, was covered with
trees, and consequently impervious to the fly-fisher.

The visit to the river Laune was pregnant with amusement,
constituted of that calm and reflective enjoyment, which is the
true source of the fascinating art; — covered with the now abundant
foliage from the sun's rays — our meal spread on the turf — the
inspiring spring-note of the numerous birds ; and, above all, the
exciting success of the day brought to my fullest recognition the
peaceful delights of our father and ;^friend Izaak, who, albeit
unused to this mode of securing trout, enjoyed all the pleasures
of the more moderate victory over the roach, chub, and dace.
One of his maxims I have never omitted to act on — one which I
can confidently recommend as the grand panacea for all the
annoyances of the world — one that will outlive the rest — " study
to be quiet.""

On our return to Killarney, I found myself possessed of
upwards of eighty fine trout, varying from one quarter to two
pounds, and began to consider how I should dispose of so mon-
strous a store. I at length resolved to dispatch the whole to
the major, who, knowing better than myself how they would be

The River Laune.

Facing page 76.

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 77

properly distributed, would, I was assured, apply them to the
use of the really deserving poor. It is a fault among anglers
that sufficient care is not taken in the disposal of their produce.
It is his duty to seek proper objects on whom to bestow the
fruit of his success, and this determination reconciles his amuse-
ment with the object of usefulness.

In a short time the major was with me ; and I lost no time,
in my really comfortable lodgings, in ordering a supply of the
" matarials."" He pressed my hand with an ardour which, I was
sure, denoted that I had risen in his respect, and I saw I was
fixed for an evening.

" What size is your English net ?'''' said the major.

" Net ? — I never used one.'''

" Be aisy ; let Owen produce it ; d'ye mean to assert here to
me — an officer holding her Majesty's commission under a rascally
government — to me, who have fished these lakes and streams
ever since the year 17 — , that that load of fish came out of the
Laune by the help only of a rod ? — impossible ! "

" Never mind, major ; it is true."

" Then you will depopulate Ireland with your magic bait ;
and the sooner I give you your billet and route, the better it
will be for the fishermen who remain behind. But you must not
leave to-morrow. At six I have ordered you to be chanticleered
— to view the stag-hunt — it will be a glorious day."

I readily ceded all my previous arrangements to this occa-
sion, and gave my promise to attend the major at his appoint-
ment for the next day.

As "the matarials" attenuated, I found the major relax into
his old disposition to communicate the wonders of sporting,
and, indeed, of all other things ; and the evening closed with a
description of the effect of some grand medicine, which, being
of the quack order, possessed, of course, the most contradictory
virtues, and was equally applicable to every species of disorder or
accident.

"Cure? by the powers, and nothing can equal the grand

78 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

preservative ! it cures all diseases and mends all mischiefs. If
you \von''t believe me, hear what happened to myself, which,
without the aid of this extraordinary medicine, you would have
never heard. I was drying powder for grouse-shooting, and had,
for that purpose, spread it on a large sheet of paper, before the
fire ; while stirring it, some unlucky spark fell on the stuff, and
blew us all up together. Away went one of my arms here,
another there ; my head into the ceiling, and my tail out of the
doorway. I was a lamentable sight to look upon, as I could not
be seen at all, but by three or four different looks. 'The
cordial,' exclaimed I ; the cordial was brought — poured into my
mouth ; the first draught brought back my legs, the next my
arms, to their proper places ; the third attached the trunk to the
rest ; and I was whole and sound as ever ! "^

I had also the several facts, that, at one stag-hunt, the animal
had dived from one island and come up at another, two miles
distant ; and also that a boatman, who had seized one by the
horns as the hunted deer was swimming, had securely mounted
his back, and fairly traversed the lake, throwing a fly and catch-
ing trout at the same time.

Although these stories seem monstrous, they all undoubtedly
had some foundation ; and the good-humour and kindliness of
heart, which were manifested in the major's every act, had
begotten for him an indulgence in his amplification, on which
no one who knew him would be desirous of trenching.

The morning arrived, and with it came the major and his
posse comitatics, to escort me to the lake, to witness, and, if need
were, to assist in the stag-hunt. The weather was boisterous,
and even dangerous, for I shall be well understood by any
nautical reader when I describe the seas of the lakes in a gale as
singularly short and rapid. Nothing but keeping the boat's
head to wind will brave the difficulty ; and, on embarking, even
the major expressed some apprehension. Seeing, however,
others start, we set forth ; the major at the helm, encouraging
his little crew, among whom Owen was now associated, much to

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 79

his disapproval. I would not understand his winks ; and, amid
the roaring of the winds, and the shouts of the assembled parties,
our little launch was pulled out. The rendezvous was at Innis-
fallen ; and, I believe, every boat that the lake afforded was
crowded by visitors and others, who were seeking to congregate
on the island, forming a motley group not very easy to describe.
Numerous parties were already on the island ; some dancing to
the pipers, who had severally selected some flat spot for their
adherents, while many, too great or too aff*ected to join in the
general hilarity, contented themselves with a dignified parade.

The major and myself joined the dance till the cry was heard
that the stag was started. A hundred bugles from all directions
of the lake now summoned each party to their boats, which
crowded the shores of the island, and ludicrous were the scenes
of apprehension, screaming, and splashing, as the lake, now wild
with storm, dashed its angry spray over the dignified segregators.
Many boats put back to the lee of the island ; but the major,
relying on the skill of his little crew and his own steady hand at
the helm, set forth, and we arrived at the opposite shore just as
the hounds were descending to the strand. Splash went the
affrighted animal into the lake, amid the shouts of the hundred
boatmen who were immediately at utmost stretch to follow him.

Each crew was now put to the test of strength, and I must
record the fact, that the major was not last; the shores were
crowded with spectators — the mountains reverberated the sounds
in continued echoes — the clamping of a thousand oars — the
resounding bugles from the boats — the cries of cargoes upset in
the melee — the alarm of the drowning, and the shouts of the
foremost, raised all together a din that must fail in description.
The chase, however, was not of long continuance. The sea was
too high to allow the tired animal a chance, and he was secured
by two boats in a state of exhaustion that took from the captor
all the credit of difficulty or danger. The stag was then recon-
ducted to his native wood, and turned loose for a future day.

Although I give this short account of the stag-hunt at

80 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

Killarney, I must, injustice, observe, that it afforded me individu-
ally no pleasure. The whole arrangements were artificial, and
therefore, to the true sportsman, uninteresting. It is a piece
of absurd pageantry; the only amusing part of which is the
assemblage, after all is over, at the island of Innisfallen, where
every true and loyal Killarney-man thinks it his duty to dance
and get drunk, if he should have the misfortune to be sober for
the rest of the year. The evening, however, unlike other Irish
festivals, passed peacefully; and, with the exception of a few
broken heads and one or two drowned, on returning to the main-
land, the stag-hunt at Killarney was fraught with no particular
consequence.

The deer which are preserved in the woods in the neighbour-
hood, and which furnish the hunt, are of the red species, and
were originally brought from France. ^ Although they are still
found in a wild state in Scotland, I believe Devonshire and
Cornwall are the only counties in which they are now found in
England. With the wolves they appear to have been destroyed
in Ireland ; once, doubtless, productive of those of a much larger
and more splendid character of deer, now extinct.

The bogs of Ireland were once woods — ^the proof of which
exists in the fact, that, in all parts, trunks of trees of immense
size are found ; and even now the traveller will not unfrequently
find the natives boring, by long iron rods, to search for timber.
Havins discovered the existence of some hard substance, which
they immediately recognise as timber, they proceed by continued
boring to ascertain its length, and the depth from the surface,
and by these discoveries decide whether the exhumation would
be worth the labour. The timber so discovered is hard as iron,
and perfectly black, and it is not extravagant to believe may
have been thousands of years imbedded in the bog, its preserva-
tion being accounted for by the total exclusion of the atmospheric
air. The Rev. Mr. Isaacson, in passing one of these numerous

1 This is an error. There is no reason to doubt that the red deer of
Killarney are of an indigenous stock. — Ed.

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 81

tracts where persons were thus employed, discovered the head
and horns of an immense animal ; the former considerably larger
than a bullock's, and the horns standing nearly seven feet high,
and of a weight which could hardly be lifted by one person.
The proportionate dimensions of such a creature must have been
enormous; but, with the destruction of the woods, by some
convulsion of nature which philosophers have not explained, also
fell this noble race of deer.i

Wolves, however, still escaped; for we find a presentment
made to the grand jury for their destruction in the county of
Cork, so late as 1710 ; the inhabitants then complaining of their
devastation.

^ The horns and head of the elk were presented by Mr. Isaacson to the
late Duke of Beaufort, in whose possession they now are.

CHAPTER IX

Kenmare—Blackwater— Liberality of the Rev. D. M .—Irish Cunning

and Roguery — O'Rourke, the Salmon -Poacher — Story of O'Rourke
and the Magistrate— Gaffing at the Falls— The Poacher in Exile — The
Flood — Singular Habits of the Salmon— Ascent of the Hills— A
Sudden Storm^ and its Consequences— Perils and Escapes — Fatal
Catastrophe at Clydah — The whole of the Cattle and Inhabitants
destroyed by a Flood.

From Killarney to Kenmare, 14 miles.

The most unfrequented, yet by far the most magnificent scenery
lies between Killarney and Kenmare. The latter is a small town,
containing a good inn ; seldom, however, boasting any other
guests than the poorer attendants of the markets, and the
occasional visits of the tourist. Although, on arrival at the
town, little beyond a wild and barbarous country meets the eye,
the road will amply repay the journey. One miserable cot
alone, dignified by the name of a half-way house, breaks in upon
the general impression which steals over the mind, that the
traveller is passing through an uninhabited country. The
succession of mountains, displaying all the varied grandeur
which forms so distinguishing a characteristic of Kerry, is here
incessant, till, having traversed the now well -planned road
fourteen miles, the sea bursts upon the view as suddenly as
beautifully.

My purpose of visiting the Blackwater, a river celebrated for
its fishing, though by English travellers little known, prevented

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 83

my staying at Kenmare. This river presents to the tourist
and the angler at least a fortnight's varying amusement ; and,

in the liberality and kindness of the Rev. D. M , whose

property it is, full reliance may be placed. His establishment
is the oasis of the desert, while all around presents nothing but
wild neglect and desolation : not an acre of land for miles under
cultivation.

The strictness with which this river has been preserved has
rendered nearly all the scattered inhabitants adepts in the art
of fly-fishing ; and even his domestic servants have been afflicted
with the general desire to assist in gaffing, spearing, and hunt-
ing the salmon, although it has been always held a serious
crime.

While I partook of an early breakfast, among others, who,
like myself, were allured to the county by the high reputation
it bears for sport of every kind, our host made frequent inquiries
for one O'Rourke. At last O'Rourke appeared. There was a
conscious knavery in his countenance, an archness in the eye,
which betrayed the motive of our host's inquiries.

" Are there any salmon in the river, O'Rourke ? '''

O'Rourke smiled, scarcely knowing whether he ought or
ought not to answer the question. At length an imperious
repetition of the inquiry brought a confused reply : " To be
sure your honour knows right well ; how should I know, your
honour.? sure it isn't for the likes of me to be looking for
salmon, or peering about the river any way.""

" I ask you, sir, if there are any salmon in the river ? ""

"There are seven, your honour, in the first lodge, and
eighteen in the upper pool."

" Then you do know V

" Plase your honour, I don't pretind to know more than the
Test, but the fish will show themselves, your honour, and one
can't help seeing them, your honour."

" That will do. Be ready with the gaff*."

" To be sure and I shall, your honour."

84 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

The light flashed from his eye, as, with a hasty step, he
retreated from the room evidently overjoyed.

"That," said our host, "is the best salmon-fisher and the
greatest knave on my estate. Notwithstanding the terror of
dismissal, and the utter starvation which would be consequent
on it, such is his propensity to poach salmon, that no considera-
tion of this kind can restrain him. Salmon-catching is, indeed,
a constitutional disease with him, and I am compelled to give
special orders to my keepers to be ever on the look-out against
all poachers, and especially against O'Rourke. Although he is
now nothing more than a labourer on my estate, he was once
in a higher employment ; and such was the pleasure my father
took in his company, especially when fishing, that he might
have taken any liberty save that only of catching salmon. The
cause of his degradation, however, was the irrepressible love of
salmonry, which overbore all other considerations. It was his
office to caiTy my father across the stream, which, as you may
have observed, is, in many parts, exceedingly shallow and broad ;
yet, during the floods, to which we are sometimes subject, we
have found bridges of little avail. It was the old gentleman's
custom to visit his summer-house on the opposite side, and
O'Rourke's duty to carry him across the stream, as the gout had
at that time rendered him wholly helpless. About a year before
his death, 0''Rourke was performing his office with due care, and
had already reached the middle of the stream with his gouty
burden, when, as though struck with sudden madness, and
uttering an Irish scream indicative of joy, he precipitated the old
gentleman headlong into the stream, and threw himself into a
hole which was close to the spot. Fortunately, my father
recovered the sitting posture, and, perhaps, as fortunately, had
presence of mind to keep it, although the stream was rapidly
flowing as high as his arms. His screams brought assistance
from the neighbouring cottage, whereupon O'Rourke jumped up
with a monstrous salmon in his hands, which he held up by the
gills. The curses of the old gentleman brought him to his

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 85

senses ; he awoke to the terror of his situation, which he knew
would, during the paroxysm of his master, be fraught with
danger. Throwing down, therefore, the salmon on the bank, he
took to his heels, and was never heard of for at least a month.

" On regaining his home, the first business of the enraged
magistrate was to grant his general warrant for the apprehen-
sion of O'Rourke ; and, had he been then found, I do not doubt
but that sentence of instant execution would have been passed
against him. No warrant, however, availed ; he was not to be
found.

"It was not till some time had elapsed that a sportsman,
who well knew the worth of O'^Rourke as a companion, dining
with the still offended magistrate, and having listened to the
details of this enormity as accounting for O'Rourke's absence,
presented a petition for the culprit's pardon. This, with great
difficulty, was at length obtained, and proclamation being
made forthwith, the delinquent came out of his retreat, which
had been no other than the immense mass of rocks which form
the last fall of the river. Here had he endured a month's im-
prisonment, living on shell-fish, obtained from the shore, which
was within a few yards of the spot, and perhaps mainly assisted
by the better fare which the river supplied. Nothing, however,
could wholly reconcile my father to him, and, though restored
to his employment on the estate, yet has O'Rourke never held
up his head since he plunged the magistrate in the river to catch
a salmon with his hands."

Armed with the gaff*, O'Rourke, myself, and Jidus Achates
Owen, now set off* for the river. When arrived there, I was
somewhat amused at O'Rourke's account of the mode of life he
had adopted while in retreat. The bridge, which is sixty feet
above the rocks, where the last fall mingles the river with the
sea, is of the wildest and most picturesque construction. After
having shown us the precise hole where he boiled his potatoes
at night, and the upper part of the hollow where, on dried sea-
weeds, he had made his bed, with the nimbleness of a monkey,

86 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

though at that time at least sixty years of age, he jumped from
one ledge of rocks to another, till he had gained the point of one
which overhung the descending torrent, and there, with gaff in
hand, awaited his opportunity. Strange as it may appear, this
spot, if it could be maintained during the increasing flood after
rains, would present continual opportunities of gaffing the
salmon and sea- trout as they endeavour to jump the fall.

" Ah, your honour, we'll have a glorious flood to-day.*"

This prognostication was formed on an experienced observa-
tion of the habits of the salmon.

The river Black water is subject to sudden floods — torrents
falling down from the immense range of mountains, each con-
taining its lake. These lakes become sometimes overcharged,
and it is not unusual to find a simultaneous burst over the
precipitous falls of the stream, so that from a ripple to a flood
is the change of a moment. Indeed, some parts of the river
are so shallow, that a child may, at every two or three hundred
yards, ford it. On the approach of a flood, of which the most
experienced inhabitants of these glens can, perhaps, form no
prescience, the habits and instincts of the salmon and trout
from the sea are singularly evinced.

The fall from the bridge, to which we have just referred,
forms a dark basin, protected on each side by perpendicular
rocks. Such, however, is the transparency of the salt water,
that, from the side of the bridge, although so much elevated
from the level of the water, it is not uncommon to see crowds
of salmon sulkily awaiting the increased stream to make their
first leap. Whenever, even in the most settled state of the
weather, and while the river is nearly empty, excepting only
the occasional lodges, these fish are observed to congregate
under the bridge, be sure of an impending torrent.

Convinced that, with this intimation from O'Rourke, and
the dull and dense atmosphere above us, there would be little
chance of sport, we proceeded up the river, leaving O'Rourke
at his post, with the gaff*, to supply the salmon for dinner.

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 87

As we ascended the hills by the side of the river, the stream
exhausted, the pools motionless and transparent, the mists
awfully capping the abrupt and prodigious heights, by which,
on all sides, we were surrounded, weary with our walk towards
the first lake, which is one of the sources of the stream (a
journey undertaken more with the view of marking the ground
for future operations, than with any hope of present sport), I
dispatched Owen to the solitary house of the hills. It was the
habitation of one, who, in this unhappy land, is termed and
esteemed a mountain farmer ; and within five miles is no other
cot. While I uselessly threw a fly on the undisturbed surface,
awaiting his return, and ruminating on the solitary grandeur of
the scene, a sudden crash of thunder startled me ; and, looking
towards the heavy ranges of mountain which towered above
me, I beheld black and threatening masses, that, in any other
country than these regions, would not be described as clouds,
but as substantial volumes, portending some grand catastrophe.

I stood on the verge of the stream, on a jutting rock, and
turned quickly on these demonstrations from above to reel up
my line and prepare for my retreat. There was an air of terror
among the cattle, which were here and there scattered about
the ledges of the river; and, to my astonishment, the rapidly
increasing stream had already encompassed me; a new arm
had been formed behind, while the rising torrent threatened
me before.

There was a scream of birds, whose wildness seemed to
belong to the sea; and I could distinguish human voices
between the intervals of thunder. At length I beheld Owen
and the farmer, on the opposite side of the river, directing me
to some mode of escape which I could not comprehend, and
using gesticulations of the utmost anxiety.

I now became seriously alarmed. Crash succeeded crash ;
the rain fell as in heavy volumes, hardly separated into drops ;
and I resolved to ford the stream which had grown behind me,
not conceiving that so short a period could have so wonderfully

88 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

increased its depth. The first step convinced me of my error.
I slipped from the rock, on which I thought there was safe
standing, and was instantly immersed in eight or ten feet of a
rapid stream.

The first sensation which I recognised was a blow of some
severity on my shoulder. I had met in my quick passage an
obstacle, to which the preservation of my life was owing ; — it
was a sharp ledge of rocks, which formed the barrier to the
stream. By one of those prodigious efforts with which in the
moment of danger we are endowed, I threw myself out of the
course on the bank, and now perceived that the current had
already saved me three or four hundred yards of my journey
homeward.

Panting and shaken by the roar of thunder above, and the
dashing riot of the torrent below, I had but time to remove the
blinding water from my eyes ere a fresh danger presented itself
in the form of huge masses of rock, which continuously fell into
the river, unable longer to endure the sudden shock. A bog
was before me, over which I knew it to be impossible to pass ;
and I resolved to shelter myself, as well as circumstances would
allow, by a projecting mass which still braved the current,
until some advice or assistance should be offered by Owen, who,
I knew, was on the look-out. Then it was, and for the first
time in my life, I beheld and felt the power of the mountain
storm. The enormous masses of clouds simultaneously burst
over my head, and, for the few minutes they were discharging
their unequal weight of water, I was still drowning ; the torrent
being hardly greater below than above me, and all seemed by
one sudden convulsion to have become a raging sea.

To ward off the power of the descending cataract, I had
covered my head with my hands, and, on my knees awaiting my
fate, my arm was suddenly seized and I fell backwards, as I
supposed, on some demon of the stream : it was the drowning
wretch, who, to save me, had tempted the torrent's danger, and
now lay extended on the rock. I raised him in my arms ; he

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 89

recovered quickly from his exhaustion, and entreated me to
swim the lesser stream, as, in a few minutes, one more flood
from the mountains would inevitably entomb us both.

Desperation was in the effort : I made it and succeeded,
while my faithful mountaineer kept me fast by the waist ; and
I, being the taller of the two, was enabled to afford him the
assistance he needed.

The bog was well known to him. Under his guidance it
was soon traversed, and we arrived at the farm-house with no
further hurt than some severe bruises and excessive cold.

The effects of these sudden storms were more deplorably
manifested on the river Clydah, a stream which falls into the
Flesk, and thence into the lower lake of Killarney. It is a
shallow and rocky stream, sometimes falling down cliffs and
rocks of immense height. Small as it usually is, it was once
guilty of terrible destruction.

In the year 1832, the month of June was singularly dry.
The 15th of that month put forth the appearance of a brilliant
day; the sun shone out in unalloyed splendour, and diffused
heat and life around. On the banks of the Clydah might be
observed the rustic dwellings of numerous humble families, and
in the midst of them the mansion of a gentleman who had
devoted himself to the exercise of that hospitality which is
almost the distinguishing characteristic of the Irish; at least,
of those who are unpolluted by the extravagance of a residence
in England. On the morning of the day above mentioned, he
was surrounded by his family ; the cottagers were enjoying the
loveliness of the day; the cattle everywhere grazing on the
abundant verdure which covered the slopes towards the river.
Suddenly the sun became obscured — the roar of distant thunder
shook the dwelling — fear started into every countenance — and,
before any had time to communicate with another, a terrific
cataract rushed from the mountains, sweeping all before it —
bridges, cattle, houses, and their unlucky inhabitants, all hurled
to an instant destruction. Such was the fury of the flood.

90 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

that rocks of fifty tons weight were thrown from the bed of
the river into the adjoining fields — the habitations of the poor
retained no vestige of their existence — bridges, built on granite,
at once disappeared, and the power of the flood reigned supreme.
In one hour all was again still. The river assumed its usual
form, trickling among the rocks, and here and there forming
a slight bay. The sun shone forth with his accustomed
splendour; but the inhabitants, whose smiling dwellings had
before given a charm to the scene, were no more heard ! Every
human creature, whose habitation was on the banks of the
Clydah, suddenly perished, without warning and without
apparent cause.

CHAPTER X

A Mountaineer — Harvest-Hunters — Kerry Agents — Influence of the
Catholic Clergy — Causes of that Influence — Safe Travelling in
Ireland — Temper of the Irish Peasantry — Means for Improving their
Condition — Abundance of Wild Fowl — The Secret — Return to
Killarney — Kellorglin — Lake Carraght — Wales's Inn — Fishery on the
Carraght River — Lob-Trout — Fishing in Lake Carraght — Disappoint-
ment — Seal-Shooting — Castlemaine Bay — Birthplace of Daniel
O'Connell — Arrival at Cahirciveen.

The mountains about Kenmare are of the most wild and
stupendous order, and I am in doubt whether the finest of the
Swiss scenery in any degree surpasses this. With mine host,
whose humble roof had sheltered myself and Owen, I remained
the whole day, the waters not having subsided. He was a

tenant of Lord , whom he had never seen or heard of in

the country, further than that he is the proprietor of the soil.
This man's condition may be taken as the general one of the
mountain serfs. His family consisted of three daughters, an
aged mother, a wife, and two infant sons. Being literally
without all other provisions, I joined in their meals, which
consisted of potatoes alone, poured out on a table with a ledge.
The family stood around, and all partook of the humble fare
with a kind of contentment and cheerfulness which would, I
apprehend, be exhibited by no other persons in the world. The
refuse of the meal was carefully collected and applied to the
feeding of some fowls, which the daughters kept for the
purpose of supplying clothing by their sale. For this purpose

92 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

alone does any of the family visit a town ; and on such occasions
they have to traverse an almost trackless country, shoeless.
There was no pig — the sign of prosperity in an Irish cabin ;
nor, on inquiry, did I find that any of the cotters could afford
to sustain this useful animal.

Notwithstanding the utter destitution of these poor creatures,
the man was by no means deficient in intelligence ; and, from
his inquiries as to what was doing in parliament, and what
measures Mr. O'Connell proposed to bring forward in aid of
the Irish, I learned that he had the means of acquiring in-
formation on these subjects, which were seldom in the power,
even in England, of persons so situated. The numerous
families we meet with in England, who come over to the
harvest, are of this order. He paid £S : 10s. for his cottage
and plot. Labour was at fourpence per day, when it could
be had, and that was seldom, as his own ground required his
care at the time labour was in demand.

The plot having been planted, the whole family set off for
Cork; this they accomplish by carrying with them as many
potatoes as each can bear, and the stock of fowls, which are
disposed of at the first town. They find no difficulty in
traversing Ireland. Every cabin is open to them, and the
sympathy and kindness of the lowest order of Irish poor for
each other are worthy of admiration. The duties of charity
to their fellow -beings are strongly inculcated by the priests,
and it is on this class alone that their instructions appear to
have full effect. The houseless and destitute wanderer will
seldom want a meal of potatoes, or, at least, a contribution
towards one ; wherever he applies, his bag is burdened by the
addition of a few potatoes, till the whole amounts to a good
meal. By this mode of charity, the destitute are sustained
from town to town. Their passage - money, by a butter-boat
from Cork, is paid from the small proceeds arising from the
sale of the fowls ; they take, as their sea-store, all the remains
of the potatoes first boiled, and generally arrive in Bristol

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 93

utterly destitute. On the road, one of a party gets employ-
ment, and the earnings of one are amply sufficient for the
sustenance of the whole. They sleep in hovels, generally by
the permission of the farmers through whose grounds they
pass on their way to the interior of England ; and, I believe,
it is but justice to say, that they have on no occasion been
found guilty of depredation.

The harvest having commenced, they generally get from
two to three shillings a day, all of which they keep with the
greatest care, sustaining, sometimes, sixteen hours^ labour for
successive days, without better sustenance than potatoes and
milk affiDrd.^

On preparing for return, one of the party carefully sews up
the whole of the earnings in some part of his dress least likely
to be examined, and they proceed homewards, still exhibiting
all the outward destitution which accompanied their arrival.
Applications for assistance are regularly made, and generally
received at each parish through which they pass homeward ;
and so careful are they of what small sums are given them in
this way, that out of them they frequently make an additional
store. Their journey homeward is prosecuted in the same
way, assisted by the kind contributions of the poorest, for they
never apply to the rich ; and, on their arrival, the amount is
carefully shared amongst them, and their rents duly paid. By
this time their potatoes are fit for digging; and, if the produce
be good, the family is sustained by them alone, in the way
I have described, for a considerable portion of the year —
while the few days' labour at fourpence, or, at best, sixpence
per day, serves to eke out the rags which can hardly be said
to cover them.

" Is this the way you usually live ? '' I asked at the end of
our second meal.

1 The use of reaping machines has almost put an end to Irish labour in
English and Scottish harvests. Farmers who used to require twenty
harvesters can now dispense with more than three or four. — Ed.

94 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

" Faith is it ; sometimes worse when the crops are poor.*"

" And you live peaceably and cheerfully in this way ? "

" Peaceably enough, your honour.'^

" But you are content ? "

" Your honour sees we are content. Content till the Liber-
ator, all honour to him, shall restore our rights — ^give us labour
and its value — not that we shouldn't be content and peace-
able without this. Your honour sees the helpless old woman,
and the good girls there — better children never breathed. My
heart has been sometimes near to breaking when the crop has
failed, and they have been obliged to walk every day to the
shore, six miles off, to bring each a load of sea- weed as manure,
at twopence per load. Many a time have I seen them fainting
under their burden ; but it was that or death : they are good
children."''

The poor fellow could hardly refrain from tears, while the
daughters, conscious that he was speaking of them, left the hut.

" But why have you not sought the town in the neighbour-
hood ; there would surely be respectable employment for them ? "

" That might be, but I wouldn't part with my children, and
your honour knows little of the numbers that are already starv-
ing in the towns : where would they get kindness or assistance
in sickness and distress? In your honour's country there are
poor-laws — hospitals ; and your people are not left to die ; but
here are none. I couldn't part with my children, though, God
knows, there is little enough for us here, and our English
journeys have not been so profitable as formerly : the farmers
refuse to employ us since some change about the English poor ;
and we are a small arrear in rent, which the agent threatens to
distrain for. However, the fowls go next week, and we shall
make up that. But we are content — we must be content."

" Does the agent take no interest in your welfare ? "

" None."

" Does he never call ? "

"If the rent is in arrear. The country is bleak, your

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 95

honour : there is but one person who traverses these mountains,
or feels for the inhabitants in a time of scarcity or of distress.^^

" And who is he ? "

" The priest;'

" Does he visit you often ? '*'

" Whenever we require him/''

" What remuneration can he receive from you ? '*''

" Remuneration ! *"

" What do you give for the attendance required of him in
sickness ? "

" Our thanks, our respect, and our love are all he receives
from us ; but he has these, and he should have our hearts'* blood,
if it were wanting to prove that he has them/'*

This devotion to the priesthood, throughout the south of
Ireland, has been the subject of the grossest misrepresentations.
Anathemas against their influence and the abuse of it have been
uttered in both houses of parliament, at all public meetings, and
almost in all societies. To the superstition of the Romish
Church is that influence wholly ascribed — the power given by
confession, and the utter darkness and ignorance in which its
communicants are held, are referred to as sufficiently explaining
the source of the blind obedience which is paid to the Irish
Catholic clergy.

Religion has nothing whatever to do with it. The influence
they enjoy, and everywhere I took occasion to seek information,
arises from those causes which — over the minds of an oppressed
and starving population, a population not deficient in intelligence
and warmth of feeling — would succeed, under any religion, in
achieving the same results.

Nothing can be more unjust than the violent attacks made
on this generally useful body; and it is to be lamented that
those attacks are made in places where they have no opportunity
of defence, where the audience is one-sided, and where they
themselves are unrepresented. Full of prejudice against their
supposed misdeeds, I sought everywhere an introduction to the

96 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

priests. I found them, I may with truth say, universally well
informed; many of them persons of the highest acquirements,
yet humble and content with the smallest remuneration — they
have no personal wants. They have no families to distract and
divide their attention, or to inspire the wish to possess and
amass wealth. The donations by which they are supported are
voluntary ; the performance of their duties, severe as they some-
times are, exemplary. They have, individually, and as a body,
but one grand object — the furtherance of the interests of their
religion, and the acquirement of the love and respect of their
people. That those objects are achieved by the unceasing-
attention they pay to all, in sickness and distress ; at the hour
of midnight, called from their beds to traverse a trackless
mountain to administer comfort to the sick and dying, where
not even the meanest accommodation exists; even under such
circumstances the Catholic priest will be found watching by
the departing, and comforting the mourners. He is, in such
districts as these, the father and the friend. With this what
can the form of religion have to do ? The complaining-
Protestant incumbent, who receives for no service, because none
is ever called for, the ample income which is drawn from the
produce of a soil already overcharged, from the poor earnings of
the poorest people in the world, joins in the outcry, so univers-
ally set up in England, against the priestly influence — the
priestly dictation. Have the Protestant clergy ever used the
same means ? "When did a Protestant clergyman start from his
bed at midnight, at the call of a wretched cottager .f^ When
did he journey behind his guide over miles of mountains, to
administer comfort and the forms of religion to beings in destitu-
tion, who have nothing to offer in return but their gratitude.
But this is nightly the labour of the priest ; in this, and the
exercise of the kindly offices to his destitute flock, consists his
power ; and to the use of that power, in a way deserving, if the
truth were known, the highest commendation, is the internal
peace of Ireland mainly owing.

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 97

' While I am on this subject, let me endeavour to remove
an impression which militates much and unfairly against the
interests of Ireland. The districts on which I now write are
little known, because little visited ; and, among inquirers on the
subject, I have found a distiTist of the inhabitants — a suggestion
of danger. There is none. Every Englishman may be assured
that in no country in the world is he more safe. My route
throughout Ireland was out of the ordinary track — ^the sports-
man will always choose the most unfrequented paths — but,
during a residence of two summers, spent chiefly in places little
known to the English, I never experienced a loss of any kind.
The crimes of the Irish poor, destitute as they are, are not those
of ^ theft. But were property lost, an application to the priest
would immediately be the means of its restoration; a general
exhortation at the mass would have that eff*ect, while of personal
violence there is no instance. No stranger, I believe, was ever
yet molested among them. On the contrary, every cottage
would be open for his accommodation ; and whatever it con-
tained would be at the service of the traveller.

But let us not be deceived by the notion that the Irish
peasantry are or will be content in the state of destitution to
which they have been gradually brought; let us not imagine
that they are unconscious of the deprivations they suiFer, or of
the inequality of their lot, in comparison with other nations.
They will be found generally intelligent, and even clever — they
endure their fate in silence, it may be, but in hope — they look,
through their priesthood, to the power of one man — a power,
which, originating in the instructions of the priesthood, has
been established by a daring perseverance never before exercised
in their behalf — a power, which, as long as the oppressions of
the people last, will not only endure but increase.

It was said by Cobbett that the cultivation of the potato
was a misfortune — I believe it.^ It is the lowest sustenance to
which the human frame can descend — below it, there is nothing

1 This was written ten years before the great potato famine. — Ed.

H

98 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

but death. To this, the absent landlord, the grasping middle-
man, and the oppressive exaction of tithes, have reduced all the
rural districts of Ireland — one step farther, and destitution and
despair will be fraught with their natural results. Why should
they starve.? Why should any people starve.? It is against
the common law of nature, which is, above all, the law of society.
If regard for the law, and obedience to its mandates, bring
death — nature cries out, break it, and live. It is a cry not to
be resisted — it is a cry that will be obeyed.

Contending interests and factions repress the melioration of
the condition of the Irish peasantry. It is not poor-laws, for
the peasantry are exemplary in their kindness to their relations
— it is not hospitals or subscriptions — it is the residence of their
landlords, and employment for a now redundant population.
It is the reclamation of lands, to meet the demands of an in-
creasing people — it is the establishment of manufactures on the
broad and splendid streams, which everywhere irrigate the
country — to give a market for produce, and wages to the
labourer. The first of them would produce all the latter — the
first would reinstate the poor, and, perhaps, bring the lord of
the soil to some slight knowledge of the state of those thousands
who starve under his dominion.

The surprise and gratitude which beamed in the countenance
of mine host and his wife, as I placed a small sum in the hand
of the infant while taking leave, showed how far I had exceeded
their expectations, and how little accustomed they were to
kindness of any sort. There was an indisposition to receive it,
and a protestation that they were too happy to have had the
honour of sheltering me ; all which being overcome by my
request that they would refer to it no more, the man requested
to be allowed to accompany us over the mountain pass. I visited
again the banks of the river — it had fallen to its ordinary
volume — and all the flats were covered with sea-fowl, attracted,
no doubt, by the shoals of small white trout, with which the
river, after the storm, abounded. Among the rest, the

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 99

cormorants were numerous, pieces of rock, which jutted from
the river, being here and there covered in one dense mass. My
gun was now in requisition — so unaccustomed were these animals
to any annoyance from man, perhaps even to his sight, that I
found no difficulty in approaching a flock, thus settled, and
sending the contents of both barrels amongst them. The death
of many of their number scarcely disturbed them — they flew
upwards, and, in a few moments, again assembled on the same
spot. The screams of every class of sea-bird, which followed
the report of my gun, conveyed the idea of our being amongst
an interminable flock. As we passed down the rocks, following
the course of the river, new coveys met us at every turn. It
was hard work to load — my powder was becoming exhausted —
and I regretted I had not a better supply, as one of the flat
pools of the stream exhibited a dark mass of ducks, widgeon,
and teal.

" Your honour^s our friend ? *" said my host.

" Certainly.'^

" It's pity your honour has no powder, and another gun — a
heavier gun would send better — your honour will be secret ? "

" You may trust me, safely. *'''

" I will fetch your honour a gun — an old one, but a true
one — and powder. ""^

" Where have you these things ? '"

" Not a man on these mountains but knows where both are
to be found. Your honour will own the gun, if any inquiry.
God knows when we shall want it.*" The confidential whisper
in which this was conveyed disclosed much of the state of
general content in which the Irish mountaineers are held. It
would be dangerous to break the peace of such a people.

From Kenmare I returned to Killarney ; and, having taken
leave of the major, who promised again to join me so soon as
I should arrive at Galway, I dispatched Owen with the pony,
and followed the course of the town to Kellorglin. This is
a singularly interesting walk of twelve miles, though the lower

100 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

part of the river becomes tame and flat as it approaches the
sea. The late rains had greatly swollen the river, which was
now clearing, and I was anxious not to lose the golden moment.
Trout were abundant ; many of good size, notwithstanding the
continual netting of this river ; and, as I crossed one stream, a
tributary to the Laune, about six miles from Killarney, I found
the fall, under the bridge, crowded with those fresh run from
the sea. A fly was useless — a good worm, well scoured, would
have been effectual at this moment — and the best substitute for
the resistless bait I offered. I took upwards of forty common
trout and sea -trout, from a quarter to a pound and a half,
under this fall alone. I met with many anglers — rude ones
indeed — they were fly-fishermen, and had met no success. The
fish they had taken were all small ; and, from observation on all
the rivers I have fished, I ever find the smaller size most greedily
rise at a fly, while the heavy fish are generally to be found in
falls, where the fly could never attract. The bait is, therefore,
the only mode of fishing these fastnesses ; and, even then, it
must be offbred with some skill. Much will depend on the
weight attached to the line, as trout invariably take the salmon-
roe at the bottom. If, therefore, the fall be deep and turbulent,
I append a heavy bullet, three feet from the hook; that the
former, lodging on the ground, plays the bait in the eddy with
such effect as to attract fish even from a hundred yards distance.
There is much in this plan. I now approached the sea; the
river wsis still, and subject to the tide. I therefore put up my
tackle, and pushed on towards the little town of Kellorglin.
All the civilisation of Killarney had vanished ; I was now
approaching the wildest part of Kerry, where no intercourse
with England existed, and where the Irish language was in its
native purity. Most of the peasantry, however, understood
something of English, and had little difficulty in directing my
route.

At Kellorglin will be found a very humble, but not an
uncomfortable inn ; and, above all, I recommend the angler to

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 101

spend one evening here, for a very essential purpose, that of
procuring flies of a gaudy feather, exactly suited to the fresh-
run salmon, among which he may anticipate abundant sport.
There is a very ingenious artist at Kellorglin, the only fly-fisher
of the place. I sent for him ; and, supplying him with hooks and
gut, he made for me a dozen salmon-flies, not easily to be
surpassed in the delicacy of their construction, and certainly
not at all in the attraction they present. He was well rewarded,
by a glass of punch and a shilling, for his evening's work.

The Lake Carraght, which is situated about six miles from
Kellorglin, is a splendid, though utterly neglected lake ; and, in
visiting it, the sportsman must lay his account with the loss
of all the usual comforts. He should provide himself with
necessaries at Kellorglin; and, among other preparations, he
must £isk leave of the renter of the river to fish the stream up to
the lake. This permission, although granted by a person who
pays a heavy sum annually for the river-fishing, I believe to Lord
Headley, is never denied. On my application, I was informed
that the river was quite open to me, and that the renter would
have great pleasure in meeting me on the banks, near the weir,
in the morning.

The only house on the road towards Cahirciveen, which
presents any accommodation, is at Wales's, the bailiff* of Lord
Headley, which is about seven miles from Kellorglin, and very
invitingly situated between two rivers, each about half a mile
from the house. One is the Carraght river, the other a mountain
stream, of considerable volume ; and there is this extraordinary
peculiarity attached to them — up the Carraght is found nothing
but salmon ; I believe there is scarcely an instance of the white
trout making up that river ; the other is crowded with white
trout, and not a salmon disturbs them. Both these rivers fall
into the sea, within a mile of each other, behind Wales's house ;
yet, as by a marine arrangement, the fish never invade each
other's dominions.

Wales himself carries on a fishery of considerable extent, at

102 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

the mouth of the latter river, where, at one draught of the net,
it is not uncommon, at the end of May, or the beginning of June,
to take from six to seven hundred white trout, some of from
three to four pounds in weight. Nor does this appear at all to
decrease the supply, so entirely are they unmolested in the river.
On my arrival at the little inn, I found that the host was an
Englishman, many years, however, resident in Ireland, so many,
indeed, that he appeared wholly to have forgotten the relative
value of things, and to have adopted, to the fullest extent, the
delusion so general among Irish innkeepers, that all the English
are afflicted with Vembarras de richesses. No doubt a very
reasonable agreement might be made with him, as at all other
stations ; but I, having made none, the more strenuously advise
all who follow me to establish a clear understanding of that
nature. His house is well situated as a station ; and, should the
weather be rainy (which in these mountainous districts may
generally be expected), exhaustless sport would be found. Here,
having established my headquarters, I sallied forth to keep my
appointment. I found the proprietor at the weir, accompanied
by my ingenious friend, the fly-maker, who had brought the
whole of his feathers, for the purpose of suiting the day. From
the weir to the sea, it should be known that there is but one
lodge for salmon ; and, though the distance is a mile, not one
will be found at any other spot below the weir. The lodge is a
flat, about a hundred yards from the weir ; and, though I had
fished carefully, from the road upwards, without a rise, no sooner
had my fly fallen fairly on that spot, than a fish, of six or seven
pounds, rose to meet it. He broke off*. It is very difficult to
hold the young salmon, especially in streams. Their mouths are
tender, and if the hook should not take effect in the bony part
of the jaw, they break off* at the first struggle. My new friend
and myself now began in earnest, and, out of twenty which were
hooked in the course of two hours, on the same spot, we were
successful in landing only three. One of these I took to Wales^s,
and, having invited him and the fly-maker to join me, a sub-

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 103

stantially good dinner was put before us, and ample justice
done to it.

It is a mistake to cook salmon quite fresh. The flakes are
hard — the oily matter which, by keeping, insinuates itself into
the flesh and renders it tender, is curdy. Although fresh salmon
is generally sought, and as generally esteemed, a day's hanging
is a manifest improvement.

I now visited the river on the other side ; and, changing my
fly-tackle for the roe, invited my company to view a new style
of fishing. They were perfectly incredulous till they saw my
success, which, indeed, was almost incredibly great; the late
heavy rains having brought the white trout into the river in
such abundance, that it was impossible to find a spot, below the
bridge, and towards the sea, which possessed not its silvery
tenant.

In this river I met a species of trout new to me ; it is
common, however, in Ireland, and in some of the rivers in
Scotland ; and appears to be a bastard between the common and
the sea, or white trout. ^ It is called a lob. It is found only in
brackish water, in such parts of rivers which are frequented by
the fish from the sea, as are subject to the tide. On the retire-
ment of the tide, these fish are most ravenous, and may be taken
with almost any bait, but especially with the salmon-roe. They
are found of three and sometimes four pounds, are exceedingly
muscular and violent, but by no means good for the table. I
was assured that these fish are so destructive of the spawn of the
sea-trout and salmon, that a premium would be given by the
proprietors of rivers for their destruction. Certainly, their
eagerness for the roe was unprecedented, taking it even from the
surface, before it was well in the water. They are less timid
than other fish of their species, and would afford sport even in
the finest weather, when neither the salmon nor white trout
could be moved.

1 It is now held by the best authorities that this fish is merely the com-
mon river-trout {Salinofario) which has acquired an estuarine habit. — ^Ed.

104 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

This day deserved to have been marked with a white stone.
It was a day of splendid amusement — the success such as would
have gratified a wholesale fishmonger — but, alas ! the produce
here was of no value ; after all my labour, and after the exhibi-
tion of my pride, in depositing eighteen fine trout at the inn,
mine host, with a coolness that almost made him mine enemy,
requested the pleasure of my company at his salting-house;
where, fi'om one di*aught at the low water, at the mouth of the
same river, that very evening, I beheld a heap of not less than
two hundred fish, chiefly of larger size than any I could boast.
The chagrin and mortification I experienced were heightened
by the smile of all parties, as they took their leave, and bade
me good sport.

The Carraght lake, however, was untried, and I dispatched
Owen, on the pony, to endeavour to procure a boat, so that it
should be ready in the morning, at a certain spot, nearest to the
road, or rather pathway, which led to it. A dreary path it is,
by the side of the rocky stream, which sometimes falls down
heavy precipices, at others, spreads over a vast space ; not a tree
or shrub to vary the monotony of the vast masses of black stone,
which seem to have directed its course. After an hour's difficult
riding, early the next morning we arrived at Lake Carraght.
There were traditions of trout, of sixty, and even eighty pounds,
taken from this water. I was fired with the accounts I heard
everywhere, and resolved to try my fortune for the highest
prizes alone. Having, therefore, put on our trailing tackle, and
young samlets for bait, we set off*, keeping, as Owen recommended,
the deep courses. Four times round the lake did we industriously
row, without an indication of an inhabitant ; and it was late ere,
wearied and disappointed, we sought the hovel, where the pony
had been left, to return to our inn. We could not condescend
to attack the white trout in a spot where every retiring tide
gave hundreds to the net.

That evening Owen and myself held a council of war. It
had been disgracefiil to have abandoned so fine a lake. It was

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 105

clear we had not adopted the right means of fishing it, and I was
determined to make a bolder attempt. I was aware that, in
many large lakes, the best trout are only to be taken by a ground
bait ; and this I determined to try. I therefore directed Owen
to take some salmon-roe, load it heavily, and endeavour to secure
from the river some eels, which, it must be remarked, through-
out this part of Ireland are regarded as noxious vermin, not
only unfitted for food, but even for sight, so horror-stricken do
all the Kerry people appear in their presence. Meanwhile I
arranged a stout cord, one hundred and fifty yards long, with a
hook of good size at every second yard. This I wound round a
deal board of exactly the width of the hooks, so that they were
not entangled in the process. Owen was successful in eel-catch-
ing, and brought a basket full, with which, the next morning,
we started.

On arrival at the lake, my first care was to select two stones,
of sufficient weight, for each end of the line. Alternately on
the hooks were put a small trout (which are easily caught by
the hand, under the stones, in the tributary rivulets) and an eel,
cut in two. The line was then sunk, at length, with a large
cork, as a buoy, in the middle of the lake. Having done this,
we commenced our trailing with better tackle — I say better, for
I attributed our want of success, the previous day, to the un-
skilful arrangement of the bait, which was not properly swivelled.
Now, however, I had corrected that error, so that the fish twirled
in a most inviting manner ; and, being resolved to employ our
time like real sportsmen, I directed Owen to row, while I
attended the two rods, one from each side the boat, and also
threw a line, with four flies of different sizes and colours. This
was fishing a lake in earnest ; and, I believe, never was success
greater. The first fruits were from the flies, and I landed a
small salmon ; next from the trailing line, both of which were
run together ; and, in the agitation of the moment, had nearly
proved fatal to myself and my companion, as he threw down the
oars, forgetting where he was, to seize the rod, which was

106 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

quietly disembarking itself at the summons of one of the lake
monsters.

The anxiety of both, as the fish ran foul, can hardly be de-
scribed. I blamed Owen whenever his game crossed my line,
and he thought it was just possible that I might keep mine clear
of his. After some bickerings, blamings, and, I fear, intemper-
ance on my part, Owen landed his fish. It was a lake trout of
twelve pounds, which we had both determined to have been
thirty — short, thick, black, and ugly — with a mouth almost as
large as that of a pike. What my candidate for the honour of
the atmospheric region may have been, I cannot tell ; he threw
himself once out of the water, disengaged himself from the hook,
and left nothing but my mutilated bait.

This disappointment, however, did not check our exultation
at the safe arrival of Owen's fish. We both burst into a fit of
laughter at the appearance of the ugly creature, while Owen
assured himself and me that there were trout still to be caught
in that lake of seventy pounds, and that we had only received
this as an instalment.

We now proceeded to take up the dead line ; and, flushed
with our recent achievement, I will not attempt to describe how
anxiously we drew up this buoy rope. On raising the stone
towards the boat, a struggling power, which I could hardly
resist, indicated the presence of some of the lake monsters.
Yard after yard was hauled in — I paused — Owen swore it was
one of the celebrated trout. I thought so till the line reached
the surface and betrayed a dark-coloured and ferocious-looking
eel, of seven pounds. The butts of our rods were now in requisi-
tion ; and, after a flagellation that would have been ill sustained
by any other creature, he was landed ; next hook, still a struggle ;
an eel again — again and again. As I proceeded, however, a
dash was made that showed the presence of a more vivacious
creature. I held on the line in the utmost anxiety — I brought
it to the surface — it was, indeed, one of the lake monsters, of
which we had been so laboriously in pursuit — but I had no

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

107

power to govern him — ^for a while darting ahead — then towards
the stem — now leaping from the water, and falling with an
appalling splash — at length, he made one dart under the boat —
one of the hooks caught — the line broke, and our hope was

Freed froai Restiiaint_, we saw Him once more.

annihilated. Freed from restraint, we saw him once more dash
from the surface, and then disappear for ever.

Who shall paint our mortification. Owen's countenance,
always lengthy, was greatly elongated. I stood in surprise for
a moment, drew in the remainder of the line in an affected re-
signation, but spoke no word. I motioned Owen to row towards
the shore, quietly packed up my tackle, and we proceeded on
our road homeward. I dared not trust myself to speak — all our

108 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

arrangements were made in silence — nor was it till we had half
accomplished our journey to the inn, that Owen ventured to hint
that it was a large fish.

"What fish ?^'

" The trout your honour lost.*"

"Host?"

" No ; that the line lost. By St. Patrick, he was a rale one."

" It is impossible to say."

" Sixty, at least, your honour. I knew him by the breadth
of his tail ; his tail was broader than both my hands."

" You think so."

" I saw him a dozen times."

" Owen, say no more about him ; he was a large trout. If
we told the story, we should hardly gain credit, and neither of
us any satisfaction from reciting our ill-luck — let us forget it —
but that trout was the largest of the lake."

On arrival at our inn, we found our host busily employed in
boiling down seals for their oil. This led me to inquire, and. I
soon learned that they abounded along the Castlemaine bay. I
therefore ordered the gig early, and made preparations for an
attack. The road from Wales^^s to Cahirciveen is now excellent,
and perhaps one of the most picturesque in Ireland ; sometimes
elevated on eminences, above the beautiful green bay, from
which, on a calm day, can be seen the fish scudding over the
white patches of sand. Not a hut interrupts the wildness of this
lovely region, which I passed through on a singularly fine morning.
Whenever the shore, which it frequently does, approached
the road, I left Owen in charge of the gig, and beat out my own
track among the rocks. Although I could frequently see the
seals, mounted on little jutting eminences, before I could creep
towards them, within the distance of two or three hundred yards,
they splashed into the sea. At length, when the curve of the
bay suddenly presented me no less than ten or twelve, of all
sizes, I rushed towards the sea to intercept them. They had
the benefit of both barrels among them ; but, failing to strike

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 109

the head of any, nothing but the rising blood on the wave showed
that my load had taken effect.

Although unsuccessful with the seals, I was not so with the
cormorants, puffins, and teal. The abundance of these birds
supplied continual sport, although it is to be lamented that the
useless birds predominate greatly. The teal were shy and few.

We now passed the bridge, which leads over the river,
forming the little harbour of Cahirciveen. Here I resumed the
bait -tackle, and found tolerable sport, among a small -sized
white trout, which were now abundant in all the rivers of this
district. As we approached Cahirciveen, the black and desolate
mountains of Iveragh broke through the clearing atmosphere ;
while the sun, now flashing on the broad Atlantic, presented a
scene of wild splendour. I now deemed that I had, indeed,
reached those regions into which no civilisation had yet pene-
trated,— immense tracts of uncultivated bog, abruptly broken
by a sudden mountain, behind which another of greater elevation
rears its head, itself again and again succeeded by masses, if
possible, still more black and awful in their combinations.

Little as this road is traversed, considerable sums have been
expended on it ; and, assuredly, its boundaries present sites for
marine residences of an extraordinary beauty. The view over
the Castlemaine bay, of the Atlantic, and, in the distance, the
fairy island of Valencia, possesses a rare combination.

If I were to fix on a spot where I would hope to pass the
rest of life's fitful dream, in quiet retirement, it would be im-
possible to select one of more accumulated advantages.

On the right, between the road and the arm of the sea,
which receives the Cahirciveen river, is Cashen — now, alas ! a
ruin — used only for the occasional shelter of cattle. It is
prettily situated, and was once the residence of the chief
proprietor of much of the surrounding country. It was the
hospitable mansion of the father of that extraordinary man,
who is now inextricably associated with all the destinies of
Ireland. It was the residence of the father of O'Connell.

110 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

I could not pass this spot without a closer examination ;
the now unglazed window of that room in which the "best
abused man in the world "*"' first drew breath was pointed out ;
and I paused, to carry with me a faithful reminiscence of so
interesting a spot. My sketch occupied some time; and, on
its completion, I walked towards the i*uin. I disturbed vayjidus
Achates; Owen was on his knees, uttering a prayer for the
welfare and success of his country^s indomitable friend. As
what he uttered was in Irish, I had some difficulty in arriving
at the substance of his orisons. " Your honour will forgive an
Irishman. Long life to him who liberated Ireland ! ''''

" What benefit has the liberation bestowed on Ireland, Owen.^^''
" Is it your honour asks that question in earnest ? "
" In earnest.*"

" Sure it is not for the likes of me to tell your honour what
the 0'*Connell has done for his country — the world knows it.
Faith, ifs to him we owe that your honour^s parliament ever
cared about us at all. Ifs to him we owe that your honour
visits our country and inquires about us; and ifs to him we
owe that we are represented at all in the master country, which
conquered us, and kept us under martial law for many a day.
Oh, it's meself that remembers the time when a candle shouldn't
be lighted, but a troop of soldiers would hunt in upon us and
abuse us. Oh, we were slaves then, any way."
" But how has O'Connell remedied all this ? "
"Long life to him, and he has remedied all he can. We
may have a light, if we please, now ; and we may walk about,
without being stopped by the soldiers; and it'll not be long
before we get law and justice, and Catholic magistrates, that
will believe the truth from a Catholic. Oh ! the devil fly away
with all Protestant magistrates that find all Catholics guilty ! "
" And do you believe the Protestant magistrates so decide ? "
" Faith, and your honour may say that. Sure all the world
knows it. If we had among us a spalpeen who would swear
anything but the truth, he had only to turn Orangeman and

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 111

Protestant ; he couldn't swear too stoutly or too much.
0''Connell has smashed the Orangemen, and an honest man may
now have law, and sometimes justice."

That this was a feeling too generally disseminated, whether
justly or not, was evident ; that there had existed grounds for
such impressions, may be readily inferred. It must not be
imagined that the services of O'Connell are not understood by
the Irish. Frequently have I been astonished by observations
from the poorest class, which have betrayed more judgment
than even the refined London press has sometimes exhibited, in
discussing the groundwork of his popularity and influence. The
frequent announcements of the decline of that influence, from
some ill -explained or party squabble, can create nothing but a
smile in the traveller who has made himself acquainted with
the firm reliance placed in him. The reproaches of mendicity,
which seem to constitute the standing thesis of abuse, " pass by
him like the idle wind.'*'' He is no beggar ; he had, long before
he received one farthing from his countrymen, in the way of
contribution, added to the independence bequeathed him, a
fortune, and a fame that was better than fortune ; an income,
that, with half the personal labour he now undergoes, would
have ensured a more certain, and, perhaps, not more contracted
income than he now receives from his countrymen. If he
receives, like a beggar, he has the redeeming quality of spending
like a prince. He is not rich, nor can ever be so ; his hospitality
and devotion to his country*'s interests forbid it.

We now passed the handsome mansion of Charles 0''Connell
(late member for Kerry, and son-in-law of the O'Connell), and a
handsome erection, that seemed to stand forth as an example of
the use to which the noble streams, which everywhere irrigate
this part of the country, might be applied. It was a mill, built
and carried on by a relation of O'ConnelPs. A few minutes
more brought us into Cahirciveen. It is a pretty town, for
Ireland; and the appearance of comfort which pervades it at
once evinced the power of resident proprietorship. In 1815,

112 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

the entire village consisted of fifteen houses, and those of a
mean order. Now will be found two streets, some handsome
shops and buildings, a good inn, and vessels, of one hundred
tons, at the quay, and between 1500 and 2000 inhabitants;
perhaps the most peaceful, increasing, and prosperous spot that
Ireland can boast. Such is Cahirciveen ; in the wilds of
Iveragh, without the local advantages of direct roads to any
large market, but with the paramount benefit of a considerate
and popular landlord.

CHAPTER XI

Cahirciveen — Comfortable Inn — John O'Connell — Portrait of the
Liberator — Mountain Hunting — A Sportsman's Breakfast — The Mass
— State of Crime in Kerry — Party Feuds — The Lawlors and Cooleens
— A Smasher — The River Inny — Waterville Lake — Courtesy of
Mr. Butler — Live Lamb for Dinner — Produce of the Weirs — A
Deathbed Scene.

From Killarney, 40 miles ; from Tralee, 36 miles ; from Dublin, 183
miles ; from Waterville Lake, 6 miles ; from the River Inny, 8J miles.

The town of Cahirciveen is of very recent origin — it bears all
the marks of rapid improvement — the houses recently erected,
and of a handsome structure. Its situation is singularly beauti-
ful, being sheltered by the island of Valencia, and having a
navigable river of two miles. It is protected from the great
northern storms by the range of mountains composing the
district Iveragh, and affords a site, particularly adapted to
embrace the commerce (such as it is) of the whole southern
coast of Ireland. Here is a comfortable inn, kept by no less
a person than John O'Connell, Esq., one of the many cousins
of the renowned member ; although I say kept by him, I must
have it distinctly understood that he interferes not in that or
any other portion of the business which is canied on under
his name. He is, at once, a wine and whiskey merchant, store-
house-keeper, and general dealer. At his store may be found
almost any matter of convenience, and even of luxury. His
house, which he has himself erected at considerable expense,

114 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

furnishes rather the hospitable mansion of the friend, than the
venal accommodation of the innkeeper. This is, by no means,
an uncommon combination of trades and character amongst
some of the Irish districts ; and, after having afforded you all
the accommodation which you could reasonably expect or
desire, you are left rather to form your own estimate of the
expense, than be made subject to any charge ; indeed, so
unreasonably moderate were the expectations of the host, that
it became necessary to add voluntarily to the carte, in order
to constitute a fair remuneration; nor will the traveller find,
in putting up at this inn, if I may so term it, any want of
education or intelligence in his landlord ; whom, however, he
must not scruple to meet on terms of equality, which will not
be long ripening into those of friendship. Here the traveller
will find what is not common in Ireland — excellent beds, and
a snugly - furnished room. Over the mantelpiece, the first
object which struck my attention was a large print of Daniel
O'Connell, Esq., framed, but not glazed. Daniel appeared in
his travelling-cap, for an indulgence in which the Times news-
paper did not forget to assail him with all the epithets of
puppyism ; there was, however, a somewhat outre addition to
his face, as it appeared over mine host''s fireplace, and indications
of war, not, as it should seem, very congenial with his interests,
had been liberally added; I mean a pair of large mustachios,
obviously appended by the hand of an unskilful artist; and,
lest the characteristic of his country should be wanting, an
enormous pipe was stuck into his mouth. Aware of the high
veneration that is, throughout these districts, accorded to the
great original, my curiosity was excited to discover how this
contemptuous mark of disrespect had arisen : it appeared that,
a few days before my arrival, some officers had been quartered
in the peaceful town of Cahirciveen, and, as a matter of
necessity, had taken up their residence at O'ConnelPs, there
being no similar accommodation at least within twenty miles.
After having partaken of the best the house could afford.

i^ 9^

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iyr:}-^jf-^

'^■y.:

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-^ ":^.^-

r^^V

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N

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"The cry of the lad varns them to watch in all directions."

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 115

perhaps not having been too chary of the excellent whiskey,
which was always there to be found, these soi-disant gentlemen
had amused themselves by offering, perhaps, the only insult
in their power, to what they considered the democratic land-
lord; and, after their retirement to bed, the indignation of
their otherwise hospitable host had been displayed by turning
them all into the street; in this, it appears, he had met at
first some resistance, but, before so athletic and powerful a
form, little in the way of personal objection could be opposed,
and those who had wantonly offered this unprovoked insult
were glad to make the humblest apology which meanness could
suggest, before they were readmitted. The insult, however,
was not to be wholly pardoned, even by apology, and the next
day freed the house of the aristocratic warriors.

Perhaps there is no one who enjoys greater general esteem
among his friends than Mr. John 0''Connell, and he may rank
among his most intimate the chief of his name. I was shown
several dogs, and, on the second day after my arrival, found
my excellent host prepared to give me a day up the mountains.
Starting at four in the morning, in about two hours we reached
a summit of one of the gigantic and almost trackless mountains
of Iveragh, and overhanging the broad expanse of Lake
Waterville, of which I shall hereafter speak. The view at the
opening of day was magnificent ; the silence unbroken but by
the cries of the numerous wild - fowl that hovered over the
surface of the water. The process of hunting in these pre-
cipitous districts, where the hares abound, is thus conducted.
A small terrier is dispatched under the charge of a lad,
accustomed to the dangerous crags which afford shelter to the
victim : the hunters and the greyhounds remain stationary till
the cry of the lad warns them to watch in all directions ; as
soon as the hare appears, the dogs are loosened, and the
scramble then is among the sportsmen to the highest crag to
obtain the best point of sight. So fatigued, indeed, would
one unaccustomed to this sport be, that I was compelled to

116 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

entreat my leader to desist, after three excellent runs, killing
two hares ; but, alas ! we found we had four Irish miles to
walk before we could gain even the humblest roof.

This is the sport of Daniel O^Connell, who, as soon as
released from the anxieties of political turmoil, with the utmost
gladness escapes to his retreat at Derrynane (about six miles
from Lake Waterville). Day after day will he be first to
rouse the slumberers — his fellow huntsmen : it will not be un-
interesting to give an account of the last day's sport of this
kind, which he enjoyed in the year 1838.

At four, he was found at the window of John O'Connell,
rough in his dress, and wholly Irish in his manner and brogue.
" Hurrah, boy ; the day will be over, any way, before you're
up." John, recognising his cousin's voice, was in a few minutes
by his side, accompanied by three pairs of greyhounds, in which
Daniel took the utmost pride; off to the mountains trudged
the Liberator, beating, in his strides, even his brawny and
athletic companion ; they stepped over the ledges of rocks,
which overhang immense ravines, with the lightness of a boy,
and, by his shouting and hilarity, manifested a lightness of
heart which would hardly be reconcilable with one whose mind
must have been charged with so many heavy considerations.
Equal even to the fatigues which in his boyhood these
mountains had so abundantly created, and entering into the
sport with every demonstration of delight, it was not till long
after his companion had surrendered that he proposed ad-
journing for refreshment. Having accomplished the journey

to the house of Mr. B , who resides at the head of

Waterville lake, the two sportsmen sat down to breakfast. I
shall be minute in describing the statesman's. First, a large
bowl of new milk, which instantly disappeared ; then a liberal
allowance of cold salmon, soaked in vinegar — a very common
dish — of this he ate very heartily; after which he finished a
bottle of port wine, took leave of his entertainers, and set off
to walk six miles to his home.

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 117

I am not aware that any commixture could be more
iniquitous, nor that any would have agreed better with the
stomach of the Liberator.

Dura ilia messorum !

How much of all that has been achieved in battle, in the
senate, at the bar, has been owing to a strong digestion. How
many thousands have sunk under the bare difficulty of facing,
without trembling, the apprehended evil ! How often the
weakness of the nervous energies alone depresses powers capable
of the highest objects ! It is not unreasonable to refer the
phlegmatic contempt of reproach, the indomitable perseverance
through every difficulty, the moderation under success, and the
calm determination under adversity, so manifestly the dis-
tinguishing characteristics of Daniel 0''Connell, to a strength of
digestion, seldom the concomitant of the great mental acquire-
ments which are conceded to him by all parties.

On Sunday I attended, first, the established church, which
is a neat little edifice ; a rectory of about .£600 or ^700 a year,
but, as usual, the rector is an absentee — residing, I believe, in
France, while the duties were performed by a curate. Our
congregation consisted of about seven persons, among whom
were the official Protestants, I mean the policemen. Yet, the
service was performed in an exemplary manner ; and I had the
pleasure of receiving from the clergyman an early visit. The
mass, however, presented a congregation of upwards of two
thousand persons, collected from all parts of the mountains ;
hundreds walking shoeless many miles to , attend the solemnity.
I afterwards became acquainted with the priest, and found in
him a mild and amiable man, with none of the pugnacious and
anathematising spirit which is so generally represented as the
characteristic of the Catholic clergy. On the contrary, he had
obtained the veneration and love of his numerous and scattered
communicants, by the same means that have been so successful
elsewhere — by the spotlessness of his private character, and his

118 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELANT)

devotion to the religious consolation of the poorest as well as
richest of his flock. It would be difficult to find him absent at
the time of distress; he knew all his communicants, and they
knew him. He did not, however, visit them in a carriage, or
refuse a midnight attendance on the most destitute of his
mountain dependants.

Nothing, up to this part of my journey, could be more
subordinate, obliging, and kind, than the conduct of the
peasantry ; and I looked in vain for any of those exhibitions
of violence which fill our newspapers. In answer to all the
inquiries I made, I found no one who could recount any
atrocities which could have justified Mr. Inglis, in his book on
Ireland, in the expression of his wonder at the gross amount of
a Kerry sessions. The numbers, as he places them, indeed looh
large, if the offences be not nicely discriminated : they were, in
his time, for one quarter, 199 ! and " of these,"" as he says, " 174
cases implying the undue exercise of physical force.'' Yet, on
examination of his own account, there were but ten for larceny,
all the other cases being riotous assembly, Hibemice, a row, and
the cracking of divers heads at a " pattern.'' Ten only, in his
own list, are set forth as even charged with crime ; but " these
cases implied the undue exercise," etc. : that is a very awful
announcement, and well calculated to promote the views of a
rabidly Tory newspaper, and prevent the benefits arising from
English visitors who would, if the beauty of this and most
of the stations in Kerry were well known, and the truth
relating to them ascertained, crowd to Ireland instead of the
Continent.

The Irish peasantry are very much addicted to the " undue
exercise of physical force " among each other. At a " pattern "
(patron saint's day), which is a fair, where vast numbers assemble
for all purposes — hiring and being hired — of meeting old
friends and separated relatives — of purchasing or selling — the
whiskey does its mischief. Stick-combats are the consequence ;
and a broken head or two are healed by shaking hands with the

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 119

head-breaker, and being better friends than ever. There is,
indeed, a kind of feud which must be spoken of more seriously ;
I mean the assembly of clans for the purpose of trying their
strength against each other ; although much of this has been,
by the exhortation of the priesthood, abolished, yet a feeling of
rivalry and jealousy has been handed down to the clans, which
it seems almost impossible to subdue. The Rathkenny riots
did much to impress the peasantry with the dreadful conse-
quences of these feuds, and I have heard of no subsequent out-
break. That, indeed, was a terrible affair. The Lawlors and the
Cooleens were parties, between whom had been nurtured a feud
of centuries' standing. Neither party knew the offence of the
other, but a boast that a Lawlor was a better man than a
Cooleen was sufficient to awaken implacable ire. In 1834, the
two parties met at Rathkenny; a regularly ordered combat
ensued, till, at length, the Lawlors gave way, and made towards
the river in retreat, to which they were pursued by the con-
querors. To avoid the stones and blows of the pursuers, too
many crushed into the boats, which were overset, and forty
persons, chiefly young men, were drowned. It is but just to the
Cooleens to say, that, at the occurrence of this distressing mis-
fortune, none could be more active than themselves in giving
assistance to the drowning rivals, and but for their assistance
many more must have perished.

Although this catastrophe gave occasion for sweeping
condemnation of the Irish, when calmly considered, it will be,
by the unprejudiced, regarded rather as a misfortune than a
crime. The conquerors had never contemplated the effect
which ensued ; the circumstance had occurred in the hereditary
rivalry, which excited an annual trial of strength and skill.
But even these exhibitions have given way to the better
instruction the people have received.

While, however, I speak generally in favour of the peace-
able and subordinate dispositions of the Kerry peasantry, I
cannot omit to notice one crime that did come under my own

120 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

observation. Whatever atrocity is contained in it will be well
extracted, and put forth by some noble marquis or Tory hireling.

An old man, whose bald head was streaming with blood,
was introduced to the magistrate. In the custody of the
constable was, also, a strong, good-humoured -looking fellow,
who seemed anxious to tell his tale. The injured party, how-
ever, was directed to state his case, which he did, by assuring
the magistrate that he was peaceably going to his home, at
Currane, and had met the prisoner. He had " given the time of
day to him,"" and walked on ; the sun being very hot, he had
taken off his hat for coolness, when, to his surprise, without the
least warning, and without having offered the least provocation,
he received a blow on his head from a stick, which felled him
to the ground. The magistrate indignantly demanded what
excuse the prisoner could have for so unprovoked an assault upon
an old man. The prisoner considered for some time ; at length,
he burst out into the following defence : —

" It's true, your honour, as the ould man says ; he passed me
on the road, and, just at that moment, took off his hat, and
showed the most beautiful shining head ; the sun lit upon it,
as it bobbed up and down in the ould man's gait. By the
powers, all the blood came to my fingers at such a head ; oh !
what an elegant head intirely for a crack, sis I ; and, before I
could consider, your honour, I had fetched him the smasher,
and sure your honour's self could hardly have done less, may be,
if your honour had been unluckily thrown into so powerful a
timptation."

It is needless to say that the powerful temptation did not
operate as a justification, and the smasher of impulse was con-
signed to a fortnight's durance.

The river Inny, which lies between Cahir and Waterville
Lake, will be found worth exploring by the angler. In August,
I am told, it is literally crowded with sea-trout ; and, indeed, I
found abundant sport at an earlier period. It is a drawback,
however, that not even the humblest inn can be found in its

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 121

neighbourhood, and it must either be visited from Waterville or
Ceihir, at both which stations the sport is superior. The Inny,
therefore, is httle known ; and I question if one angler in a year
visits it. It may be said to be a maiden river; and, though
dreary, the walk along the banks of the lower part, and the
rocky crags of the mountainous passes, through which it runs,
will be found replete with all the wild scenery which here
abounds.

Three miles farther on, and the summit of a hill at once dis-
closes the broad expanse — the deep, sullen, and dark waters of
Waterville Lake. From this summit its whole extent may be
viewed, which stretches five miles in length, and is divided only
by a small river, if it can be so called, of five or six hundred
yards long, from the bay of Ballinskelligs, which adds its cerulean
beauties to the gorgeous beauties of the scene. At first, the
stranger is impressed with an idea that the lake itself is nothing
more than an arm of the sea ; the fall is ten or twelve feet only
from it to the bay, but sufficient to protect it from the influence
of the tide, and affording, for the whole tribe of the genus salmo,
an easy transition from the salt to the fresh water. A small
cluster of cottages, which forms the newly -arisen village of
Waterville, and situated at the very edge of the fall, covers from
the view the mansion of Mr. Butler, whose property the short
but productive river is, and whose house is almost attached to
the profitable fishery.

Having j^ secured my lodging, which consisted of a single
room, the only one vacant in the village, and which was, indeed,
the lodging of th'e priest of this district, who was then absent
on one of his rural peregrinations, I dispatched a note to Mr.
Butler, requesting permission to fish the river. To this I
received a courteous and immediate reply, containing full leave
to do so ; and having sent also for Segueson, the only fisherman
of the place, Mr. Butler's boat was put at my disposal for the
lake. The next thing was a selection of flies. If supplied with
the materials, I found Segueson an excellent hand ; he knew the

122 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

exact colours above and below the fall ; and having learned the
particulars that, at the head of the lake, there were two rivers,
both celebrated for trout, that the lake itself was redundant in
sea-trout and the heavy brown lakers, as they are called, I pro-
ceeded to arrange my swivels, and prepare for the morrow^s
attack. My commissariat was not so easily arranged; there
was nothing to be bought; the nearest market for bread was
Cahirciveen — as for all the other necessary luxuries. I dis-
patched, therefore, the running messenger, who should not be
forgotten ; he is the Waterville postman, and, without a shoe,
has, I believe, for years, run twenty miles a day without an in-
termission. My inquiries for the butcher's supply, for I had
really lived on trout and salmon till I was tired, was met by a
stare of surprise. I learned, however, that, by giving due notice,
lamb might be had from the mountains. At this prospect I
cheered, and requested the requisite notice might be given. On
the following morning, my ancilla announced its arrival, and I
was luxuriating by anticipation on the splendid dinner it was to
afford.

" Would your honour wish to see the man ? "

" By all means ; let him bring in the lamb also."'

After waiting a few minutes, open flew the door, and in
bounced a lovely little creature, which, for a moment, stared me
in the face, and then ran to hide under the table.

" Why, the lamb is alive ! "

" I drove him and carried him seven miles down the mountain
for your honour, as word was sent up last night.*"

" Why, what am I to do with a whole lamb ? — What is the
price ? " It was a very fine one.

" Why, it's dear any way, your honour — three shillings is the
price, but, as I have had a good step to bring him, perhaps
your honour would not be backward in giving three and
sixpence."

Three and sixpence was paid, to the delight of the moun-
taineer, who had doubtless exceeded the market-price by a

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 123

shilling ; and the little trembler was soothed into confidence —
not converted into a meal. He became my attached companion
during my stay, sharing every meal with an acquired air of right,
for, if he were not first attended to, he adopted the offensive
style — butted at my legs, and pulled off the scanty table-cloth.
On my departure from the country, I made a present of him to
a gentleman, who assured me that he would never part with
him, and that he should have full liberty in his fields for life.
I heard afterwards that he had fulfilled his promise, in giving
the little fellow ample liberty, but that the object of his kind-
ness had soon lost all his engaging and impudent tricks, and
had become quite sheepish.

I walked down to the weirs, the produce of which amounts,
as I am informed, to =£^700 or ^800 per annum. In four traps
it is not uncommon to take from 500 to 600 fish, nightly, in the
full salmon season ; and, perhaps, a more astonishing sight could
not be presented than the shoals of these creatures, one over the
other, constituting, in their confined cells, almost a solid mass ;
the boiling stream, which rushes through the bars of their
prison-house, keeps them not only alive, but perfectly well, till
the arrival of the higglers, who take them alive up the
mountains, and to the towns, many miles distant. None, I
believe, reach England. The land-carriage is too great, and
they have no means here of pickling or preserving, otherwise
than by common salt. But, when the length of the river, from
the weirs to the sea, is considered — not greater than 400 yards
— that immense sport will be found for the angler, in that short
run, will easily be believed.

It had rained the whole day ; and, towards the evening, I
mounted the salmon-roe, determined to try its effect on fish just
up from the sea. The water was a little discoloured, and highly
favourable to my experiment. A more glutting evening I never
spent. The moment the bait was in the water, it was seized ;
and I believe that I should have had no difficulty, had my
industry kept pace with my success, in loading a donkey with

124 THE SPORTSxMAN IN IRELAND

white trout of all sizes. I was obliged to change my situation
for salmon, four of which I caught on the same evening. I will
not attempt to depict the surprise of Segueson, at whom Owen
directed continual gibes, as the fish made their appearance on
shore ; the former had never seen or even heard of the salmon-
roe, nor could di\4ne what charmed compost it was. He pro-
tested that, on such an evening, the most skilful fly-angler
would not have secured a fish. But here, also, the same dis-
appointment arose; the fish were of no value, as the poorest
cottagers, whose food is the potato, and generally that alone,
care little for fish, which abounds under their very doors.

On returning to my lodging, my attention was arrested by
an arrival, indeed extraordinary in these parts ; it was absolutely
a post-chaise, and contained two gentlemen, who had fully ex-
pected to have found some magnificent hotel. As it was, there
was neither food nor stable for horses, nor accommodation for
themselves, beyond that which a cabin and two beds, or a wet
mud-floor, could supply. Like true anglers, however, they had
not been deterred from the prosecution of their sport by such
small hindrances; wisely judging that, where tlie fish are^ the
fisheraien commonly are not. As soon as I thought the aiTange-
ments were complete, I assumed the superior, because the first
arrived tenant, and invited the strangers to partake of the
prepai'ations made in my own little camp, perfectly convinced
that they must otherwise have remained destitute till the
morning : they very gladly accepted my invitation. They were
Irish gentlemen ; one, I believe, an eminent surgeon of Cork ;
a fact which he had in confidence communicated to me, as it
was by no means his wish that he should be professionally called
on. This, however, did happen ; for, as my attendant, a little
fat Irish girl, brought in " the matarials,"''* she was in tears. On
inquiry, I found that " the spirit of Patrick Macguire was pass-
ing,"" and that all the village had assembled to view the solemn
sight. There was no getting at the nature of his illness, or the
object of the assembling of so many persons. I looked at my

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 125

companion and solicited his inquiry. "I was afraid of this,*"
said he, " but I must go.'^ Sending, therefore, for his Httle
package, in which he always kept a few common drugs, we
sallied forth to the cabin.

What a scene was there ! In a mud hut, with a small hole,
covered with paper, for a window, had congregated, at least,
fifty persons of all ages, relatives and friends. The widow, by
anticipation, was, with her face covered with her apron, rocking
herself on a chair by the fire ; the crippled grandam occupied
the other side, seated on an inverted tub ; while knots of busy
talkers crowded round the straw couch of the dying man. No
one offered to assist him ; his spirit was passing, and it was all
hopeless to interfere.

The first act of my friend was to clear the hut ; this was not
done without my assistance. I was obliged to explain that the
gentleman was a medical man, whom I had brought ; that air
was the first requisite for the sick man. Incredulity seemed to
mark the countenances of all, as they sullenly left the cabin.
We then broke the windows open, and proceeded to examine
the man, whose spirit was passing. It was now ascertained by
my friend that he was in the last stage of a kind of cholera ; no
remedies had been applied, nor sustenance, but of the usual
kind, offered. The poor fellow was dying of exhaustion, not of
disease. No sooner had a little brandy, and a few drops of
laudanum been given him, than he rallied greatly. Boiled milk,
in very small quantities, was ordered to be given hourly, and
my humane companion promised to see him again that night.
On our return with that object, we found the hut crowded as
before, at which both I and the surgeon expressed serious anger ;
but we failed in making the people understand that there was
any possible chance of existence for one whose spirit was passing.

Their astonishment and gratitude, however, at discovering
that poor Patrick Macguire was not only living the following
day, but rapidly recovering, were fatal to my friend's amusement.
The fame of this salvation of a dying man travelled with

126 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

wonderfiil swiftness through the mountains, and, in the evening
of that day, the door of his cabin was beset with the halt,
infirm, and diseased. It was useless to protest against such an
attack ; each case was introduced by such humility and earnest-
ness that resistance was in vain, and the mud cot became the
dispensary of a district of seven miles, during the remainder of
the visit of the professional angler. He assured me that he had
never, from any previous experience, thought it possible that
such dreadful effects could follow from want of the due applica-
tion of the simplest remedies, as numerous instances disclosed in
this district. The disease most prevalent, and, to the sufferers,
generally fatal, was rheumatism; the patient required only to
be removed from the wet mud floors, well clothed, kept warm
and dry, to be restored to the use of those limbs which had
wasted to nothing from want of action ; paralysis, arising from
the watery diet on which they fed; young cripples, whose
distorted limbs had never been set after a fracture, all combined
to show how necessary the extension of the provision the
government has made, with regard to medical attendance on the
poor, has become.

If I were a surgeon or physician, and contemplated retire-
ment from the remunerative exertion of my profession, and were
desirous of spending my latter days as usefully as possible to
my fellow-creatures, and as happily to myself, I would not stick
up a cockney dwelling in the neighbourhood of some large
town ; I would drop on the romantic mountains of Iveragh,
where the charitable exercise of my aii; would unite with the
beauties of Nature to create a happiness, which none but those
who can estimate life's value, by the power it gives of assisting
our fellow-creatures, can enjoy.

CHAPTER XII

Enormous Eagle — Fishing in Water ville Lake — Morning -Breakfast —
Island Burial-Ground — Funeral — A New Friend — The Wliite Strand —
Anecdote of the Duke of Wellington — Round Tower — Mullet-fishing
— An Extempore Fishing Yacht — The Knight of Kerry — Colony of
Fishermen — Fishing Arrangements — A Night's Fishing — An Un-
expected Prize — Paddy Shea — The Perfection of Sport — A Great Haul
— Cormorant Soup — Threatening Weather — Irish Superstition — A
Storm — Courage of the Irish Fishermen — Dangers and Escapes — A
Dance — An Event — Dangers of the Irish Coast — Frightful Scene of
Shipwreck — A Suspicious Visit — Irish Smugglers.

After the heavy rains of the preceding day, what angler
but would arise to greet the morning sun, gorgeous as he
appears, shedding his brilliant flashes on the regenerated
pastures, which present a green carpet over all the scene, save
only where huge and parti-coloured masses arise in independent
grandeur, the impervious abodes of the wild sea-fowl, the eagle,
and the fox.

Owen was at my window by four. The lines were all ready,
having been well baited with small trout, which he had taken
by hand in the streams. The swivels were on ; Segueson had
made the flies ; our day's provisions were prepared, and, with as
much delight as the anticipation of a glorious day could inspire,
we rowed up the flat river which leads into the lake. The
boundary is marked by some scattered rocks, which divide the
stream from a long plain of bog ; just as we arrived at this spot, a
caution was given by Segueson ; he seized the gun ; our oars had
scarcely ceased a moment, when a wild scream, and the discharge

128 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

of both barrels, startled me. " Hurrah ! '*' exclaimed Segueson ;
" down at last. St. Patrick, and he''s an ould offender ; row
on, row on, take care of your legs." In a moment we were on
shore, and I was in the midst of a danger I had little appre-
hended. A wounded eagle, of the largest size, lay screaming
on the ground; there was life enough left to render him
dangerous, as he crawled, or rather jumped towards us, flapping
his enormous wings, and with revenge and mischief in the
furious expression of his eye. The savage nature of this animal
was never so powerfully exemplified. One snap with the beak
had been enough to sever an arm from one**s body ; ^ by stones,
the butt-end of the gun, and oars, he was at length dispatched.

He had been long and unfavourably known on this lake.
Thousands of chicken, fowls, and salmon, had been buoyed in
the air to serve his annual family, whose habitation no one dared
approach. Segueson declared that there was a tradition of his
having carried off children, and that his age was undoubtedly
above a hundred years. However that might have been, it
certainly was the largest of the largest kind of eagle, and, when
erect, must have carried his head between three and four feet
from the ground. I regretted that no one understood the art
of stuffing; and, after several trials myself, I was satisfied to
retain his feet in token of the victory ; which I afterwards had,
mounted in silver, converted into the handles of bell-ropes. The
body of the noble marauder was consigned to the dogs of Mr.
Butler. I fear they found him tough. We now advanced to
the middle of the lake, and, under Segueson's direction, cast our
baited long line, put out the swivels, and proceeded to throw our
flies ; Owen being pilot, and gently rowing the boat, so as to
give full play to the swivels.

The flies were quickly successful, at every cast small white
trout or those of the lake were landed — but no indication of
any of the lake monsters. Twice had we made the likely course

Mt is a pity that the author has marred this part of his story with
such a gross exaggeration. — Ed.

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 129

and no run. The sun had now become powerful, and a proposi-
tion was made that we should visit the beautiful island, which
is one of the most remarkable ornaments of the lake. Within
twenty yards of the landing-spot, both swivels were simultane-
ously run. I seized one rod, Owen the other ; the length of line
which was out gave us little power ; the two fish darted across
each other, and were in great danger of entangling and breaking
the lines. Mine, at twenty yards distance, gave a leap, at least
three yards from the surface ; and, before I could provide
against the shock of his fall, he had thrown his whole weight
into the water, and departed with swivels, hooks, and a great
portion of my line. I now assisted Owen, who had a less
mercurial subject to deal with, and, after some time, landed a
fine lake trout of eleven pounds. This formed a valuable addi-
tion to our contemplated meal ; he was crimped and hung by
the tail, while Segueson made the fire by the side of the ruined
chapel, whose roofless walls contained myriads of human skulls.

Here I will describe a morning repast. First, a large iron
pot, slung by three sticks over a good clear turf -fire; well
washed, but not skinned potatoes; a fowl, split and well
seasoned, and a crimped trout of eleven pounds — ^hot, even unto
burning ; plenty of lake water, clear as crystal ; and finally, an
infusion of the best Cork whiskey. All this, on a lovely island
in the middle of the lake, a delicious warmth, a glowing sun,
and appetite from exercise and free ocean air, which gently
ripples the surface of the waters, who shall demand " what are
the pleasures of the sportsman ? '''

Amidst the enjoyment of all this, I was aroUsed by a long
and lugubrious cry, which seemed to issue from the opposite
mountains to be reverberated by those of the lake's boundaries.
Segueson crossed himself, took off his hat, said a few words in
Irish, and replaced it; Owen did the same, and there was a
silent mystery in the act which excited my curiosity. I found
that this island was the burial-ground of the district for many
miles round ; that it had been so time immemorial ; but that

130 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

this peculiarity in the time of burial was preserved. No corpse
was ever brought to the spot, excepting while the sun shone ;
and it was not uncommon for the relatives of the deceased to
delay the last offices for weeks, that the custom might be com-
plied with. I am not disposed to complain of the Irish howl ;
there is a demonstration in it which is well suited with the liveli-
ness of feeling, which is a strong characteristic of the Irish ; the
cold formula of an English funeral would ill suit them.

The body was now embarked, and two other boats were
filled with followers, who all continued the loud lamentation,
which produced an awful effect in these wild regions. On
arrival at the island, Segueson and Owen immediately covered
their faces and fell on their knees. I also reverently removed
my hat as the body was borne along; the widow, with dis-
hevelled hair, and beating her bosom with her hands, then
throwing herself on the coffin, till, at almost every step, ex-
hausted by the violence of her cries, and the apparent madness
of her grief, she fell to the ground — was raised by the others
around her, again to join in the lament, again to inflict blows
on her bared and bursting bosom.

The body was, in the deepest silence, committed to the
grave ; the young priest gave a short exhortation, and the people
returned to the boat, supporting the now fainting widow. It
was a scene that made a strong impression on me. The
numerous assemblage which had attended the remains of the
departed, showed a general feeling of attachment towards each
other, for which in vain we look in more civilised countries ; the
kindness and sympathy which were by all shown towards the
hapless widow, showed also that in her distress she would not
be without friends to assist and protect her.

I was not wrong in this view. The young priest, whose
unassuming yet pleasing manner much interested me, assured
me that a subscription would be entered into by all the
attendants on the funeral and others, to provide some mode of
life for her ; and that, though the deceased was a cotter only, by

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 131

the help of her children she would be enabled to continue to
meet her rent. That though there were no poor-laws to relieve
the destitute, the private charities among the middle order were
very extensive ; in these, however, the greater proprietors of the
soil seldom join.

After the departure of the mourners, I took a survey of this
island. It had once been undoubtedly of greater extent ; and,
perhaps, the residence of some order of monks. The continual
dashing of the waves of the lake against the side jutting towards
the west, had materially diminished its size, and had probably
rendered residence on it dangerous. Nothing remained of the
buildings which must have at one time been extensive, but the
tower and roofless walls of the chapel. It contained, as I have
said, myriads of human skulls, heaped together against the
walls ; the numbers, indeed, were such, that it would have been
impossible that they should have been accumulated from the
ordinary burials which have, during the last half century, taken
place on it ; and it is reasonable to believe that this country,
now wild and desolate as it is, was once much more numerously
inhabited.

On leaving the island, we made for the head of the lake, and,
in our progress, secured two very fine lake trout, of six and
seven pounds each. The waters are supplied by two rivers, of
distinct character ; the one being of a mountainous, rapid, and
rocky description ; the other, a dull, sluggish stream, issuing from
a long valley of bogs. Both are excellent for angling ; the former
for white trout and salmon, the latter for the brown or lake trout,
which may, by the salmon-roe, be taken in almost any numbers.

At the head of the lake stands a farm-house; one of the
most delightful spots, for sport of every kind, that can be
imagined. It is a good house, and was originally erected, I do
not doubt, for a better purpose than it is now put to. But here
accommodation might be had; it would depend on the good
spirits of the sportsman to make it a happy retirement.

On our return to Waterville, the whole village had assembled

132 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

to see the eagle ; countless stories were related of his depreda-
tions, and the cottagers spoke of his destruction as though some
midnight robber had been removed from among them. Indeed,
none of them dared at any time to let their fowls out of their
dwellings until they had themselves arisen; and, generally, I
found that the reason of their keeping them in their own houses
was the dread of the eagles and the foxes, of which the impudence
was irrepressible, coming almost to the very doors to pounce
on their prey.

My friend, the surgeon, and his companion, had been on the
river all day. The sun had been too bright for any great
success, but they had, nevertheless, landed three salmon. They
joined in my little dinner ; so that, even in the wilds of Iveragh,
I did not find myself without a companion. In the evening I
tried the roe, from the bridge, with considerable success; but
the salmon I there took were in bad season, having come down
from the river after spawning. The flesh of one was quite
white, and I regretted I had killed him.

As I stood on the bridge, I was accosted by a gentleman, in
the English accent, to which my ear had been so little of late
accustomed, that I almost fancied he must have been an old
friend — he was not so — but a new one. He had the undress of
an oflicer ; and the gold band, round his blue cap, denoted that
he belonged to the navy. He invited me to visit him, at White
Strand ; it was, he said, a lonely place enough ; he was the
commander of the coast-guard station there ; but, as I should
pass Derrynane, on my way, he solicited me to give him notice
of my arrival, the day before, that he might have the deep-sea
lines ready. I was much pleased with his hospitable invite, and
determined to accept his offer.

In niy way to fulfil this engagement, I passed Derrynane.
So much has been said of the residence of the great proprietor,
that I am disposed to dismiss it with a word. It is a straggling
building, on the verge of the sea; its furniture is plain, but
there is a hearty welcome to every sojourner. During his

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 133

autumnal residence at the abbey, it is almost an open house;
and not unfrequently are congregated within its walls much of
the talent and worth that Ireland can boast.

On my arrival at White Strand, I found the lieutenant (for
such he was) ready to receive me. I was welcomed by a very
lady-like person, his wife, who had obviously made considerable
preparations for my reception. After a very good mountain
dinner, my host and myself put to sea, where we had nothing to
do but to take up the long sea-lines, which his men had pre-
viously laid down, in about fifteen fathoms. The haul was
tremendous ; the whole of these shores, which are flat and sandy,
peculiarly adapted for the best sea-fish, are, I believe, untroubled
by a single fisherman. One would suppose, from the ease and
quickness with which we took small cod, whiting, haddock,
gurnet, and occasionally turbot, that the whole bottom was
covered with them. Sea-fowl, of all descriptions, abounded ;
and, as the lieutenant furnished me with a gun, we made a
tolerable selection of teal and ducks for the next day's dinner.

My host was a gentleman of refined manners, of the middle
age, and had seen much active service. But he had eight
children, now requiring education. This necessity weighed
heavily on his spirits, as the small income which the government
added to his half-pay, for the performance of the heavy duties
of the coast-guard, would not allow him to send his sons to any
distant school, and there was no human being of intelligence,
above that of a cotter, within many miles. He had been
stationed at the White Strand for nine years, cut off from all
society, and all intercourse with persons of his own grade. He
had ventured, on the resumption of power by the Duke of
Wellington, to address a prayer to his Grace, not for any
advancement of rank, but for a change of situation, where he
might obtain education for his rising family. In preferring this
very humble petition, he had referred to a circumstance which
might possibly have recalled him to his Grace's remembrance.
He had been the young officer who had safely landed his Grace's

134 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

horses and baggage, on his first arrival in Spain, to take the
command; on which occasion, he had been so fortunate as to
have been honoured by Sir Arthur Wellesley''s commendation.

He had received an answer, written by the duke's own hand
— and it was almost with tears that he showed me the document
— it was a cold and unfeeling refusal to interfere for the removal
of the applicant; and that refusal was accompanied by the
stoical and profoundly virtuous declaration, that he (the duke)
should never consider any personal service to himself as a proper
ground for bestowing any public office^ or of interfering in the
arrangement q/ public duties. Nothing can be more self-denying
and magnanimous than such a resolution, in the First Lord of
the Treasury, though something a little more polished might
have been added to the style, in refusing the reasonable request
of a meritorious officer. We are bound, however, to believe
that his Grace's declaration is founded in perfect truth ; and
that it was services done to the state, and the state alone, that
had gained so handsome a pension for Mrs. Arbuthnot.

While I was in this neighbourhood, I visited one of the
round towers. The only opinion I can give, from a careful
examination of the remains, is, that they were certainly not of a
warlike character. It is remarkable that there are no remains of
any entrance. The thickness of the walls, without any windows,
would indicate the purpose of burial ; which, perhaps, was the
original object. The only inlet to the building was an opening
of modern and rude construction, obviously not forming any
relation to the original design.

That these round towers of Ireland may have been an
improved form of the pyramid, is, perhaps, more easily shown
than the wild theories of the writers on this subject can be
established.

On our return from the White Strand to Waterville, a new
kind of sport had presented itself. The mullet, which at this
season of the year congregate around the entrance of the river,
had formed a black mass at the embouchement of the lake. It

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 135

was impossible to use a net, the shore being covered with rocks.
Neither bait nor fly had the least attraction for them ; and,
although they might be seen in the sun as shoals of myriads,
and as closely packed together as was -consistent with their
power of motion, no means had yet been devised of securing
this excellent fish. Their annual visits, therefore, were always
paid with impunity. I was angry at this, and spent some hours
in endeavouring to allure them with flies, worms, bait, all to no
purpose. On inquiry, I found that Segueson had taken some
by salmon-flies; not in the usual way, but by accident. He
had hooked them in the side, gills, and tail. An idea struck me
that such a system might be available ; and, stringing together
about twenty stout pike hooks, I awaited the bubbling which
indicated the presence of the shoal. I threw over them with a
long rod, and jagged the line after it had sunk amidst them.
This plan was comparatively simple, and I had the pleasure of
adding to my fish-dinner, in which my friend, the surgeon, was
generally joined, the exquisite mullet.

My quarters at Cahirciveen were, after a few days'* stay at
Waterville, resumed. I had heard, and was resolved to be con-
vinced, that the iron-bound coast of Kerry was celebrated for
sea-fishing. I had no difficulty at Cahir in setting up a good
fishing yacht, which consisted of a newly-built sand boat, which,
at a very moderate rental, was easily procured. With the
assistance of the carpenter, we soon turned it into a very con-
venient vessel of about twelve tons.

There are no fishermen at Cahir ; although the coast on the
outer side of Waterville is abundant in every kind of fish, yet
no regular market exists. The farmers, therefore, at particular
seasons, make common cause in attacking the herrings and
mackerel ; few attempt any other method, notwithstanding the
supply of fish in a Catholic country would be deemed so essential.

To remedy this want, during his stay in the country, the
Knight of Kerry, whose property the isle of Valencia is, had
invited a small colony of fishermen, consisting of four men from

136 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

Dingle. The terms he gave them were apparently advantageous ;
they were supplied with houses and small plots of land, a small
hooker and tackle. The Knight, I believe, was to be supplied
with one-third of the produce as his share, and the residue was
to be equally divided among the men.

The plan had not succeeded, for I found that the poor
fellows had gone through a very dreary winter, with little or no
sale for their fish ; and, on my arrival at the island, which is not
more than three or four miles from Cahir, they were on the
point of abandoning their engagement, and returning to Dingle.

It will be a satisfactory guide to my successors to set forth
the terms I entered into for the services of this crew. Four
were by no means too many for the heavy rigging in use among
fishermen here. The boats have two masts without stays, and
two very large sprit-sails, simple enough in construction, but by
no means easy of management in a rolling sea, such as we were
liable outside the island to encounter. In calms, also, it was
absolutely necessary to have considerable strength in the boat ;
so that I at once engaged the whole crew. The captain''s wages
were, per week, seven shillings ; the others received six shillings
each. To this I subsequently made an addition, by supplying
the potato store myself. Small as these wages were, in the
course of a month the sum each had accumulated amounted to
a small fortune. Having made all arrangements, among which
the most important were the long lines and deep-sea tackle — a
good cooking apparatus — we set sail down the Cahir river, the
evening being beautifully serene. We arrived about six at the
island of Valencia, where I found a very snug little inn, the
hostess being an Englishwoman ; and the welcome the English
gentleman received was indeed cordial. Having supplied all
little omissions here, we set forth for a nighfs fishing.

There are two outlets round the island, which will admit
ships of considerable burden. Both, however, are of a dangerous
character, unless under very skilful pilotage ; the southern out-
let passes by, on either side, immense and towering ranges of

Night Sport.

Facing fage 137.

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 137

perpendicular rocks of awful height. The sea has worn immense
caverns under their bases ; and, even in the calmest weather, the
roaring of the Atlantic, as each succession of waves retires from
the immovable mass, is singularly terrific. On the extreme
point of Valencia there are the remains of CromwelPs fort; a
position commanding the whole island, and effectually prohibiting
all hostile entrance into the harbour. Once having passed this
fort, there is no landing-place for twenty miles round the coast,
either way. A depth of twenty fathoms is found within a yard
of the rocks which compose the coast.

With a gentle breeze and a favouring current, we reached
the fishing-ground just as the evening was closing, first threw
out our long lines, and brought to an anchor. We had hit the
exact moment; no sooner were our lines at the bottom, than
whiting, of a very large size, and such as are never seen in
England, were drawn up. These were immediately piit on the
large hooks, and set out. Four lines, baited with mussels, were
continually going, till darkness stopped our further sport. We
now trimmed the fire ; put on our enormous kettle of potatoes ;
erected a very comfortable tent, by the help of the sails and
yards; and, with the addition of boiled whiting and good
whiskey, enjoyed a capital supper.

While, however, we were busily employed in discussing these
comforts, sundry vehement tugs at the boat's side indicated the
neighbourhood of some of the tyrants of the deep. The first I
was impatient to haul with my own hands.

" AiTah ! Paddy Shea ; is it yourself that'll be afther litting
his honour lose his hands ! catch hould and haul.''

I found this assistance timely, as I had just come to a stand ;
the fish having, as the sailors call it, bored downwards. After
another impetus, however, supplied by the assistance of Paddy
Shea, an enormous creature of the skate kind was secured. He
was as large as an ordinary table, and weighed very nearly one
hundredweight.

The only mode by which we could, on our arrival at Cahir,

138 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

carry him up the town, was by thrusting one of the spars
through his body, and thus suspending him between two men.
Conger -eels were a terrible annoyance ; but the occasional
landing a ling, which is here held in high esteem, and which is
indeed an excellent fish, again inspirited my little crew.

Paddy Shea, I soon discovered, was in high repute as a
dancer, while my captain was somewhat celebrated as a singer.
There was no lack of amusement between the frequent calls
made on us by our lines. At length, however, one hand being
constituted the watch, all were ordered to turn in. Our beds
were by no means uncomfortable. The foresail, well folded,
served every purpose of a couch ; our time was short, as, with
the grey of morning, we were to make our first haul at the long
lines. We had now a good stock of ordinary fish, and I was
impatient to see the result of the long line in the deep water.

Certainly the perfection of sport is the opportunity of fishing
new ground. When I call the coast around the isle of Valencia
new ground, it must be understood to convey this meaning —
that it has never been attempted with a net, trail, or any other
means than the deep-sea line, and even that has been very
sparingly used.

The delight I felt at the first violent movement perceptible
on the long line will be easily understood; and, as the white
body approached the surface, the conjecture as to the kind of
prey was highly amusing. The first was a fine cod; next,
conger-eel ; third, a large ling, skate, haddock ; then only a row
of heads, the bodies having fallen victims to the ruthless com-
munity by which, in their thraldom, they had been surrounded.
Flat fish, and here and there a tolerable turbot, served to supply
us with so splendid a cargo of fish as to render all further
pursuit useless.

On our return homeward, millions of cormorants, forming
black masses on the projecting rocks, attracted our attention.
So little had these been disturbed, none of the fishermen who
frequented the coasts around being possessed of fire-arms, that

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 189

there was no difficulty whatever in approaching within gun-shot.
With the first volley, however, all dived ; the second barrel was
ready for those who appeared first on the surface, many popping
up their heads within three yards of the boat. The hand and
eye must be quick, for the instant they perceive their mistake
they as suddenly disappear. The sport, however, is very
exhilarating, as it is endless ; while, under a steady foresail and
good breeze, the ground is continually changed. Puffins, teal,
cormorants, gannets, and gulls, would, with a good breeze and a
good shot, soon load a boat.

On returning to Cahir, we found we were possessed of about
three hundredweight of fish of all descriptions. The weather
had now become too warm for salting. I sent, therefore, a few
to the inn ; and gave public notice to all the poor of Cahir, who
chose to come for their share, that they should be supplied. In
this division, the produce really of value to the destitute and
helpless, I took much pleasure; and I felt that the life of a
sportsman is not necessarily a useless one; for, although the
coast is so abundant in the produce, there are none possessed of
the means or skill to furnish the Friday's meal. Of the birds,
with the exception of the teal, which are not so numerous as
the rest, I can say little in praise.

The cormorants make, I am told, a good soup, not unlike
that derived from the hare; and, although the priests have
decided that the puffin is not a bird, but a fish, and there is in
consequence a general dispensation that it may be eaten on a
Friday, I availed myself but once of the privilege. I was
perfectly satisfied that, without the dispensation, I should have
little sinned in that way. The plover, however, abundance of
which are here found, roast well.

As yet, all my experience on these seas had been accompanied
by singularly fine weather; but, on our third or fourth day,
when about twenty miles from the Skelligs, we perceived a heavy
roll of the sea coming in from the Atlantic; a hazy dulness
gradually covered the horizon, and mixed its clear blue with the

140 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

darker cloud; the breeze, which had hitherto carried us, now
died to a perfect calm ; nature seemed at once to fall into a
sudden repose ; not even the cry of the wild bird disturbed the
distant echoes of the caverns, whose hollow recesses sent forth
the accumulated wave, as if indignant at the intrusive volumes.

The darkness of day is solemn, and the spirits unconsciously
flag. Not a fish was moving, aware of the coming change ; the
sea-monsters ceased from their prey ; and nothing now was seen
upon the increasing masses, which appeared causelessly to blend
one with another, but an occasional shoal of porpoises making
towards the land.

The crew looked at each other, and spoke in Irish, in a low
and mysterious tone : at length, my captain ventured to hint
that, as the sails were useless, and the weight of the masts
increased the rolling of the boat, we might as well have all in,
and take to our oars. Our compass was duly consulted, that we
might not lose in the coming mist our exact position; there
was little or no curi'ent, and, should we lose sight of land, the
entrance to Valencia might be easily hit. It was on Friday ;
the effect of superstition was becoming manifest, and it was not
difficult to perceive that my little crew, accustomed as they were
to the sudden gales which come in upon this coast from the
broad Atlantic, looked as much for approaching danger in the
day as the elements.

Two hours were laboriously spent in pulling towards land ;
but the sea had, as we approached it, increased to a mountainous
roll, while a few large drops of rain, and a suffocating heat,
betokened the arrival of the storm. A scudding breeze tipped
the surface of the swell ; a distant crash was heard, which
reverberated around the shores. The oars fell from the hands
of my little crew, and each was momentarily on his knees,
uttering a prayer in Irish, and crossing himself in great apparent
agitation.

This done, for I would not interrupt their devotions, I began
to remonstrate with them on the terror they seemed to exhibit.

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 141

I found myself utterly mistaken ; there was no fear of danger ;
and as each rose from the performance of what he deemed an
humble acknowledgment of the divine power, I could perceive a
resolution and determination which reassured me in the coming
difficulties.

The wind had now begun steadily to increase ; scudding
squalls passed rapidly ; while, at intervals, the heavens opened
with liquid fire. The masts were to be stepped; and here it
was the coarse and rude style of rigging presented its difficulties.
The weight of the sprits, which was enormous, aided by the
sudden lurching of the boat as she fell into the trough, rendered
the setting the foresail a matter of danger ; but we were rapidly
drifting towards the island, and no time was to be lost in getting
the boat close to the wind. This at length accomplished, she
became more steady, but the gale rapidly increased ; and, as she
mounted the now breaking summits of the heavy and long seas,
it became apparent that we should not fetch the upper entrance
of the island.

A consultation was now held, as to the propriety of getting
up the mainsail, and at once putting her on the sea tack. The
objections were, that we might lose our reckoning, and miss
the entrance, while nothing but destruction awaited our falling
below the island. The mainsail was at length got up ; and
now, indeed, we began to feel the value of good ballast. She
stood up admirably — wet, indeed — but stiffly ; and, though we
found ourselves, by my unluckily letting her fall off a point just
as she was rising, once or twice buried in the crest of a sea, we
had no apprehension but that she would, in one tack, stand up
for the harbour.

We kept well out to sea — ^gunwales under — just shivering
the sails as the gusts increased, and still she kept to the wind.
Another terrific crash of thunder, which appeared close over our
heads, again prostrated my men. I began to be angry, as I,
being at the helm, needed their assistance at the sheets.

It was at this moment that a squall came off the headland.

142 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

catching the sea at about a quarter of a mile from our little
struggling vessel. The surface seemed uprooted; the foam
danced over the ocean in a white mass ; and, ere I could summon
the attention of the men, the boat was on her beam ends.
Luckily, on the first touch of the squall, I had put the helm
a-lee ; she ran up into the wind suddenly ; and this, perhaps, was
the cause of her righting. But I had run her too sharply up ;
the squall caught the foresail aback, smashed the mast, and, in
an instant, our vessel presented a wreck.

The coolness and determination of my men was imperturbable,
though I confess my own courage had long since flagged.

We had no difficulty, except from the tremendous rolling,
in shipping the mainmast forwards, and again bringing our bark
to the wind ; but, no sooner had we done so, than a new and
unforeseen danger sprang up ; our compass, in the fall of the
foremast, had been demolished, and I immediately fixed my eye
upon an opening stream of light, which had emanated from the
direction in which the island stood.

The gale now increased to a hurricane. Our spare sail was
drawn round the leeward side, to form a bulwark, as nothing
but keeping her well to windward could effect our safety.
Every minute we were covered with a breaking sea ; and one
with a crest, that denoted the extent to which the gale had
arrived, broke in upon the forecastle, and literally smothered
Paddy Shea. The good-humour of the fellow, as he rubbed the
water from his eyes, almost caused, in our state of danger, that
kind of uncontrollable laughter from which even the condemned
cannot on occasion refrain.

The danger of missing CromwelPs fort, at the southern end
of the island, was pregnant with a frightful alternative — that of
running before the wind, round the island, and entering by
Bray Head. Fortunately, we were not reduced to this, for the
wind came more free round Doulus Head ; and, to our satisfac-
tion, when we made the point, we found ourselves midway. The
entrance became now the last danger ; the sea, rolling in from

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 143

the southern Atlantic, had assumed by this time a terrific height,
and as each wave was rejected by the bold shores of either side,
the mid-channel, through which our course lay, formed a mass of
raging confusion, through which we ultimately dashed, with one
or two seas completely over us.

" Hurrah ! " exclaimed Paddy Shea — " we'll want no more
washing for a week."" " Hurrah ! "^ exclaimed the rest — " It's
the boat that'll do it, anyhow."

All confidence and honour seemed now, by general consent,
to be placed in the boat. Our short passage round the island,
to the quay, was readily accomplished, amid the utmost hilarity,
which the cold, wet, hunger, and even the deprivation of the
consolatory pipe, could not repress.

Thou who wouldst enjoy the pleasure of such an arrival,
must undergo the disagreeable part of such a trip ; and the cost
is rather extravagant. We met every accommodation and
comfort at the little inn, where we had, for an apparently in-
definite time, established our quarters. Our absence had, it
seems, occasioned considerable apprehension, and several boats
from the island had gone round the Bray Head passage to look
for us. They were returning just as we anived; and, at the
suggestion of Paddy Shea, we were to have the piper, "any
way." He was sent for; the inhabitants of the island soon
assembled, for a dance is an attraction not to be resisted.

As the storm raged, the piper played the louder ; and, just
as I had accomplished the difficulty of the jig, a half-drowned,
shoeless, hatless islander burst into the room. He uttered
something in Irish — the piper dropt his instrument, and each
betook himself to his covering. It was some time before I could
get any explanation. " It was no matter to my honour — my
honour was to go to rest, any way."

Insisting, however, on hearing what was the cause of this
sudden excitement, I learned that there was a large ship beating
against the perpendicular rocks of the island, where every soul
must inevitably perish.

144 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

It is to be lamented that so little is known of the Irish coast.
From their ignorance of the appearance or situation of the few
lights which are barely sprinkled along it, captains of foreign
vessels continually mistake the Blasket lights for the entrance
of the Shannon, and thus run up a blind bay — which Dingle
bay is — without a harbour, and with very little possible protec-
tion from the weather.

This had been doubtlessly the case in the present instance.
Ha\dng accompanied the rest to the heights which overhung the
spot where the devoted vessel was dashing her sides against the
huge masses of granite, a scene of the most harrowing character
presented itself. A mastless ship was lifted up by a wave,
twenty or thirty yards, and dashed against the rocks. Three
of the doomed crew spread forth their hands to us as we hailed
them from the cliffs in hopeless supplication.

" A rope ! a rope ! '''' was reiterated on all hands. On letting
it down to the deck, one caught hold ; but, before he could be
raised one half the necessary distance, he fell from his grasp,
and was buried in the raging sea.

We were mute spectators of the scene below. The cries of
the two remaining crew were heartrending. One of those
had been injured; for, as the vessel heeled, and apparently
was settling downwards, the other took him in his arms and
placed him in a momentary safety. This done, both wrung
their hands, and looked towards us in their extremity. Once
more did the vessel rise with the swell — one dash against the
stem mass which formed their doom, and the whole fabric, with
its burden, disappeared. The bursting waves rolled on, and the
noble vessel, with all that she contained, passed away as a
phantom.

This was the Henry Brougham — a noble vessel — and many
a hut which now cheers the coast of Cahir and Valencia has
been erected with the timbers of which she was composed.

The relation may seem trite — the reality was terrific. Little,
indeed, is known of the horrors of this iron-bound coast ; and,

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 145

were it not for the occasional aid presented by the coast-guard,
hundreds of stately vessels would here meet their fate, unpitied
and unseen.

After having done all that our limited means would allow,
to secure aid to any possible survivors of the wreck, we returned
to the inn, greatly depressed by the awful scenes of which we
had been witness. Here we found another arrival ; a boat from
Kinsale had pushed her way mastless through the lower passage
round the island. The crew had by mere personal labour
accomplished this extraordinary feat, having rowed sixteen
hours, as they declared, without rest or food.

I could easily believe the latter to have been the fact.
Those who are acquainted with Irish seamen cannot but have
observed the patient endurance of hunger and labour which
they manifest, without the least complaint. The fishermen on
the Dingle side of the bay are accustomed throughout the year
to endure the cold and wet necessarily attendant upon their
dangerous occupation, with no further comforts than boiled
potatoes and very slight covering afford ; yet, without the least
murmur, they are not unfrequently subjected to the deprivation
of the potatoes, where the sea is high and smothers their little
fire.

It is perfectly wonderful, that, with such miserable tackle as
that with which their boats are rigged, more losses should not
occur. I believe, however, I am correct in saying, that, in three
years, not one boat's crew had been lost.

I visited the newly -arrived crew, and was shocked at the
poor covering which had been opposed to the inclemency of the
storm. Legs naked — nothing but a mass of rags, suspended
from the middle, formed their dress. Neither hats, caps, nor
shirts, encumbered their physical energies. But they were
perfectly happy. Wet as they were, the panacea for all evils,
the pipe, afforded the consolation which the possession of all
other comfort would not have supplied.

They were not communicative, and seemed rather to fence

L

146 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

off all inquiries as to their mode of fishing, and the success they
had met. It appears they had been overtaken before they had
commenced their labours, and the first squall had carried both
their masts by the board. Determined, however, to ascertain
what the coast eastward produced, I applied my inquiries to one
who seemed more disposed to frame answers than the rest.
There was a look of suspicion directed to his comrades, as he
replied to my interrogations, and a cleverness in the answers,
that induced me to regard him with a stricter eye. I was
confident I had seen him before. He acknowledged that it was
so, and disclosed his under jacket, which I immediately recognised
as the slight uniform which had been presented to him in Spain,
in lieu of his ten pounds.

He informed me that he had starved through the country,
till chance had brought him to Kinsale, where he had joined a
fishing-boat, under hope of share. This was his first trip — and
it had ended, he said, as all his other ventures had, in total dis-
comfiture. He informed me that, notmthstanding the storm,
they purposed to put to sea that night ; a resolution 1 strongly
opposed, as unlikely to meet with anything but destruction.

He took me aside. " Sir,'^ said he, " I know I can trust you
— you were kind to me in the packet — I have not forgotten it.
Do not oppose our putting out to-night. We know the coast,
and the wind is abating. This is, to us, glorious weather — the
only weather, in fact, in which we dare face the sea. We have
already done our business here, and hope to accomplish another
wreck before morning on the coast of Dingle."

" Your fishing will be useless on such a night."

"Useful as it ever was to us. The coast-guard are still
quietly asleep in their cottages, never dreaming of boats or
landing on such a night and in such a hurricane — a whiff of
good tobacco is, after all, the best thing in the world — and it is
hard the poor should not be allowed the only comfort they ask,
in their destitute and miserable condition. They will have it
however, after this storm."

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 147

I now comprehended the whole affair. It was only in gales
of wind such a crew dared venture to sea ; or, having done so,
would dare to land ; to them and the stormy petrel the tempest
brought joy. They were smugglers of the poor man's luxury —
tobacco ; they had that night run part of their cargo ; and I was
not long in discovering that even my own crew were their aiders
and abettors. I did not blame them — and, as Owen would say,
" small blame to myself for that same."

CHAPTER XIII

Visit to Waterville — New Mode of Angling — Mistake about the Potato
Diet of the Irish — Cobbett right as to its Mischievous Effects — Drive
to Tralee — Miserable State of the Peasantry — Prevalence of Scrofula
and Consumption — Fine Mountain Scenery — Castlemaine— The River
—The White Trout— The Lob Trout— Fine Shooting Station for Sea-
Fowl and Grouse — Sporting Exciseman — Folly and Rapacity of Irish
Landlords — The Surgeon's Tale — The Murderers — A Mysterious
Character— Irish Court of Justice— The Trial— The Defence— The
Cross- Examination — The Verdict — The Mystery explained — Three
Pleasant Weeks — O'Connell as a Landlord — His Occupation atDerry-
nane — His Devotion to the Peasantry — ^The Dancing-Master in Ireland
— Advantages of Ireland over the Continent — Cheapness and Security
of the Living — Farewell to Cahirciveen — Departure for Dingle — Wild-
Fowl Shooting — Fishing at Dingle — Hospitality of the Resident Gentry
— Trout-fishing and Grouse-shooting — Causes and Remedy of Irish
Discontent — An Irish Wake — The Irish Howl — A Victim of the
" Good People "—A Fairy Tale.

As I felt that I had been personally obliged by my friend,
the surgeon, at Waterville, I drove over to pass two days with
him, previously to his quitting the country; and ordered my
little yacht round to Ballinskelligs Bay, for the purpose of
joining me there, and trying the sea-fishing of that celebrated
spot. The time of the surgeon's visit had run out, and my
purpose was to show him at parting as much amusement as the
varied sports of the delightful Waterville would allow.

All our lake lines were in requisition, and it most fortunately
turned out one of the best days we had experienced on the lake..

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 149

I found, however, that it was by no means a day of uncommon
success with him ; having followed my plan of night-lines and
trailing, he had, with little labour, supplied all his poor patients
with that which, indeed, many of them more immediately needed
than physic — I mean nourishment. He had hit upon a new
mode of angling, which had turned out very amusingly during
the hot weather and fine sunny days, when exertion was by no
means desirable. He had been fitting up three or four very
long rods from the woods, which everywhere cover the sides of
the lake. To these he had attached lines loaded with lead;
and, baiting with the earthworm of the largest kind, had planted
himself on some of the rocks at the back of the little island on
the lake. Throwing himself on the grass, which covers the tops
of the ledges, he had amused himself with a favourite book,
while, as Izaak says, his " angles fished for him, and were put
out to interest."" He succeeded in killing very fine trout by
this means, the only particular caution being necessary of
keeping out of sight. He had discovered, also, that the lake
had another species of fish, unknown to the inhabitants of its
banks — a flat fish of the flounder kind, but exceedingly delicious
for the table. They, no doubt, make their way up from the sea,
as I have not unfrequently discovered them in the lakes of
Scotland, where the communication was easy.^

The salmon and sea -trout had afforded him, during my
absence, unremitting sport ; and he expressed himself in terms
of the warmest gratitude, such as a sportsman can really
entertain for the amusement I had secured him in the communi-
cation of the secret of the infallible bait — the salmon-roe. He
had not, however, been allowed to pursue the even tenor of his
way at Waterville. His fame had for him too rapidly and too
widely spread; and the calls on his humanity had become so

^ This statement may appear of dubious veracity, but I can confirm the
fact that flounders frequently ascend the streams for several miles and
make their way into fresh- water lakes. — Ed.

150 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

incessant, that he hardly regretted the return to his professional
pursuits elsewhere.

We found the bay crowded with mackerel and gurnet, which
afforded a good afternoon's sport, but it was of too monotonous
a character to be worth the labour. The shooting was improved
by the late gale, as it had brought to land innumerable flights
of gannet, some of which we secured. The bay, however, having
no harbour, is an unsafe station for a boat ; and I ordered the
crew to take her round again to Valencia, while my friend and
myself proceeded next morning to Tralee.

Nothing is more fallacious than the opinion generally enter-
tained, that the Irish are healthy on the meagre diet the potato
affords. From the prevalent diseases of these mountains, as
well as from the illness which I find in towns where the potato
is the staple, I have arrived at the fullest conviction that it is
not suited to human food for any continuance.

" The disregard to human life,"" said the surgeon, " exhibited
in the hard measure of justice, dealt out by a British govern-
ment to these unhappy islanders, is worthy only of execration.
What is now to be done I know not, but it is impossible not to
perceive that nearly all the fatal diseases among them originate
in the absence of proper and generous nutrition. Wherever
skill is applied to a failing constitution, we find it unavailing ;
there is no native strength to sustain a change, or to apply
sanative resources. When sick from any cause, they generally
die ; and a disorder which, among a well-fed people, would bear
no danger to them, brings death even in youth. You cannot
but have perceived the rigidity of expression in the countenance
of the youngest here. The prevalence also of scrofula, the sore
eyes, and frequent blindness, are referable to the potato diet.
Out of fifty, who at an early age meet death, more than half
that number have expired, not from the ostensible disorder by
which they were first attacked, but by that universal curse — the
potato. Cobbett was quite right in deploring its introduction
as an irremediable misfortune. It enabled the landlords to

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 151

compel their vassals to subsist on a lower and less nutritious
diet, from which they will hardly ever be able to escape but by
a determined effort, which may, while it procures food proper
for man, at the same time establish their independence as a
people.'**

The drive to Tralee displayed to me more than I had yet
observed of the terrible state of misery to which the rural
population of this district is reduced, — children, literally with-
out any covering, or, perhaps, only a ragged shirt, defying the
rain and wind, and apparently not aware of the possible comfort
of any superior clothing. At one cottage, where we stopped,
we found nine children, all under ten years of age ; the mother
nursing two, and consequently herself helpless, while the father's
wages did not exceed fourpence per day.

It is remarkable that the children, throughout Ireland, bear
all the indications of strong health. This appearance is de-
ceptive ; the tendency to scrofula and consumption everywhere
exists ; and both these diseases need only some exciting cause to
display their horrors.

The passage by the side of the mountain, on entering Castle-
maine, is of the finest order of scenery ; and, from a considerable
elevation, the beautiful bay bursts upon the sight. The river
which forms this bay is the Alang, composed of two rivers, the
Flesk (not the Killarney Flesk), and another mountain stream
of some volume.

The stream at Castlemaine is sluggish, but there will be
found excellent fishing for white trout and the common trout,
two miles from the town. There is also in abundance, in the
river, what is called the M-trout, which I have before described.
Here they become large; indeed I found them quite three
pounds in the tide's way.

Although the accommodation is not very good, yet a station
might be made for shooting at Castlemaine during the winter.
The entrance to the bay is safe, and the shores easy of access.
It is crowded with every variety of sea-fowl, while the neighbouring

152 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

mountains afford continual amusement in an undisturbed stock
of grouse. I say undisturbed, for I believe they are seldom
shot over. The only sportsman I could discover, resident at
Castlemaine, was the exciseman. Of him I learned, and he
affected to make a considerable favour of the communication,
that there were abundance of grouse on the hills.

On inquiry of my landlord, I found that he was not deceiv-
ing me ; for, having abandoned his rule, like a bold exciseman,
on the first day of the season (a day not very scrupulously re-
garded) he had produced at Castlemaine more than thirty head
of grouse. They are not esteemed by the residents; and
there are no means of sending them to the other side of the
island.

The entrance into Tralee is now so much improved as at
once to inspire the notion, that we have as suddenly emerged
from all that was wild and uncultivated to a high state of
civilisation. The town is nearly all new, and has, I believe,
been built within a few years; cottages and really handsome
houses adjoining each other, in an agreeable variety. There
are here, even, rows of houses, built in the English fashion, with
the exception only of the usual inattention to the entrance ; a
disregard of which, either for cleanliness or appearance, the Irish,
on this side the island, share in common with the Spaniards
and Portuguese, their immediate neighbours^ from whom no
doubt many of their habits have been borrowed.

The bay of Tralee presents the most eligible site for building ;
but I am informed that the land cannot be leased for a less sum
than ten pounds per acre per annum, an effectual barrier to
anything like possible improvement.

The rapacious folly of these wretched landlords is worthy of
reprobation. Thousands of acres remain uncultivated, producing
nothing but the rank and useless reed, yet at such an elevation
from the sea as would render the effectual recovery of them
a matter of easy execution. Yet, I believe, a lease for lives —
even of such property — can only be obtained on such exorbitant

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 153

terms as to render the attempt hopeless. The land, therefore,
remains uncultivated ; the people are idle, and starve.

My friend, the surgeon, marshalled me into the head inn.

" This is my second visit to Tralee,*" said my companion. " I
had once visited it under other circumstances, and such as made
so deep an impression on my mind as will not easily be effaced.
It was in this very room that I took my solitary dinner. On
that day the assizes were held at Tralee; and, finding the
accommodations in the way of lodgings all bespoken, I was
necessarily obliged to resort to the inn. An Irish inn is a
spunging-house, when situated in the capital of any district,
where the charges are immoderate, the attendance bad, and the
provisions worse.

"As I took my solitary meal, the door of what is here
called the coffee-room — but, in comparison with such rooms as
you are accustomed to in England, would be considered a tap-
room— was thrown open, and in walked a person of some
apparent pretensions. His whiskers were enormous, and his
moustaches were of considerable growth. His appearance was
of the inconsistent order; his countenance bespoke rather a
bold defiance than any engaging interest. He bowed, however,
politely to me; and inquired if there were any objects worthy
of note in this dull town, which he professed not before to have
visited.

"I explained my ignorance of the locale, and also the object
of my visit, which was then made for the purpose of fishing.
He also drew from me that I was unacquainted with any person
in that neighbourhood, and then stated that he was similarly
circumstanced.

" It is singular by what trifles we are sometimes induced to
form an estimate of character. My first impressions were that
this stranger was a gentleman ; I, however, wavered when I saw
him throw off an elegant and most expensive great-coat, and,
for a moment (the error was immediately detected by himself),
exhibit a marvellously foul shirt. This, however, might be a

164 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

national inattention to the person. His conversation was
shrewd, and by no means vulgar, though the chain of his watch
was brass, and the gorgeous eye-glass, which was suspended
round his neck, was gilt.

" He informed me that he had travelled nearly throughout
Ireland, with a view of forming some opinion of the capabilities
it possessed of more extensive trade and manufacture ; that he
had examined all the mines which had been opened, and that
he had hope of introducing the iron trade to some extent. He
familiarly referred to persons of high mercantile character,
whom he connected with his views ; and, having dispatched his
breakfast, with an air of authority he demanded of the waiter
what would be procured for dinner, and whether his horse was
properly attended to, and fed.

" The first inquiry was easily answered, as the catalogue of
an Irish larder is not difficult to be run through. This point
settled, his next inquiry was relating to the lions of the place.
The waiter informed him that, in addition to the church and
the harbour, the assizes had that day commenced; and that
there was a trial of some interest expected to take place, relative
to a murder. Of this he expressed great indifference, and
thought an Irish court of justice not likely to be very amusing.
As he had little of the Irish accent, though in some words he
uttered it was sufficiently marked, I concluded that he wished
to pass for an Englishman. He said he was English, but that
he had caught a little of the brogue from the frequent visits he
had paid this country.

" He now invited me to join him in the dinner, to which I
expressed my assent ; and we both proceeded to view the lions,
and thence to the court-house. Having found our way into the
gallery of the court, and obtained good seeing-places, we found
the jurymen already assembling, and answering to their names.

"The important cause was just coming on, and the prisoner
was now conducted to the bar. He was an elderly man of fifty,
perhaps more, decently dressed, and wore a brown wig. His

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 155

face was expressive, though entire confidence seemed to pervade
that expression. His appearance altogether, however, created
no prepossessing effect. During the charge, he was in constant
communication with his attorney, and frequently shook his head
with a sort of smiling dissent.

" The charge was that, in company with others, he, on the
night of the 14th of May, had murdered and robbed the Rev.
in wood.

" The counsel for the prisoner now applied to the court for
a postponement of the trial, on the ground of the absence of
material witnesses, whom every exertion had been made to find.
It was stated that a clear and convincing defence could be
established in the form of an alibi, but that it had been im-
possible as yet to find the parties, whose testimony would
effectually clear the prisoner of every imputation. This applica-
tion was refused by the judge, and the trial proceeded.

" Witnesses now stated that, on the day in question, they

were passing down the road which skirts the wood of ,

about one in the morning, on their return from fair. They

distinctly heard the cry of murder, and at first feared to enter
the wood. On its repetition, the witness and his fellow-traveller,
arming themselves as well as they could, proceeded to the spot
whence the cry had emanated. They clearly saw two men
rifling the pockets of the murdered man. They fell on them,
and, after some blows, the murderers fled. Two others then
rushed from the thicket, and joined the retreating party, who
were soon out of sight; and the witnesses now directed their
attention to the dying man, whom, on being brought to the

road, they recognised as the Rev. Mr. . He was not

dead, but faintly declared that he had been set on by four men,
who had stabbed him in three places, and robbed him of one
thousand pounds, which it was known he had that day received

as tithes at . He particularly described one man, who was

dressed in a white great-coat : that was the man the witness had
seen running from the deceased — it was the prisoner at the bar.

156 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

"On cross-examination, both witnesses admitted that the
dress was a considerable ground of their belief in the prisoner's
identity. They both agreed that he had a wig, which corre-
sponded with that he now wore.

" It was some days after the murder that the prisoner had
been apprehended. He had only some silver in his possession,
and professed his entire ignorance of the crime at the time of
being taken. He added, also, that he was not in the country
at the time the murder was committed.

" On re-examination, the witnesses swore positively to the
identity of the prisoner, and adduced many circumstances to
show that they could not have been mistaken. Indeed, it was
impossible to shake their testimony ; and, with this evidence,
the case for the prosecution closed.

"The prisoner was now called on for his defence. He
stated, in good language, that he had ever felt the utmost con-
fidence in the providence of God, and his case was a signal
instance of it. Notwithstanding all his exertions, and those of
his solicitor, to procure the attendance of some witnesses, who
could establish his innocence, he had failed in finding them ;
but at that moment he beheld a gentleman in the gallery, who
could certainly give the court very satisfactory evidence.

" As the stranger and myself were now the objects of general
attention, we both unconsciously rose, and the prisoner at once
pointed out my companion as the gentleman to whom he refeiTed.
Hereupon the stranger addressed his lordship, and assured him
that he knew nothing whatever of the cause, the crime, or the
prisoner ; that he had never heard of the murder itself, much
less of the prisoner, or the circumstances connected with it ; that
he was there by entire accident, being on his way to the north
of Ireland, and that he only waited in the town while his horse
rested.

"The judge intimated that, as the prisoner demanded it,
he must be sworn. Again protesting against the necessity of
being made a witness in a matter of which he was wholly

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 157

ignorant, he reluctantly descended, and was sworn. He was
then examined.

" The Judge. ' Do you know the prisoner at the bar ? '

" ' I do not. To my remembrance I never before saw him.
My being in this town, much more in this court, is purely the
effect of accident. There must, therefore, be some mistake on
the part of the prisoner. I never saw him before.^

" Prisoner. ' Look on me. Are you certain you have never
seen me before ? "*

" ' I am morally certain I never before saw you.'

''Prisoner. 'Pray, sir — ^for much depends on it — look care-
fully at my features. Do you remember no traces of them ? '

" ' None.'

" ' Can your memory suggest no occasion on which we have
met?'

" ' I have distinctly answered that I know nothing whatever
of you. I have no recollection of either your person, manner,
or voice. I cannot, therefore, but wonder at the extraordinary
accident or mistake which has forced me to stand here to repeat
it, after the declaration of my entire ignorance of the whole
business before the court.'

" Prisoner. ' Now, sir, do you remember me ? '

" The prisoner here took off his wig, and exhibited a head
nearly bald, but with a large unhealed scar on the scalp. The
witness, after carefully looking at the prisoner, manifested some
confusion and surprise, and addressed the court.

" ' My lord, I must beg pardon of your lordship and this
court ; I do now remember the prisoner, and more particularly
by the scar on the head. The circumstance which recalls him to
my remembrance is, that, on my passage from Liverpool to
Dublin, this man, during the evening and night at sea, was
exceedingly entertaining. He sang comic songs with great
talent, and appeared in such bad circumstances that, among a
few gentlemen in the packet, we made a trifling subscription for
him. While he was receiving the amount from the hands of a

158 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

gentleman who had much admired his singing, and had taken
off his hat in returning thanks, a block which had been hanging
loose from the rigging fell on his head. The fall inflicted, what
we considered then, a very serious wound ; but, after it had
been dressed by a surgeon, who happened to be on board the
packet, he recovered, and there were some jocular observations
as to the cause of the accident — remarks on his being too polite
— and, in the end, a second subscription was entered into for
the purpose of purchasing a wig, when he might be quite as
polite at a much less cost. This is all I know of the prisoner ;
as, from that time to this, I have never seen or heard of him —
nor could I have at all recognised him unless he had removed
the wig in which he first appeared in this court.'

" Prisoner. ' Now, sir, on what day was it that you passed
over from Liverpool to Dublin ? '
" ' I cannot remember.'

" The Judge here intimated that it might be most important
that he should accurately state the day.

" The witness said it was impossible, from memory, to do so ;
as, however, being concerned in heavy mercantile affairs, and
travelling much, he had always regularly kept a diary of every
day's proceedings, by a reference to it he could accurately
ascertain the day. This journal, however, was at his inn, where
he had that morning arrived, and, if an officer were directed to
fetch his portmanteau, he would at once confidently state the
day.

" This was agreed to, and the portmanteau produced. On
opening the journal to which he had referred, he stated that he
had passed over in the packet on the 14th day of May.

''Prisoner. 'That is the day on which I am charged with
having committed this murder.**

"There was a general murmur of satisfaction among the
auditors, which was repressed by the judge, who asked to see
the journal. It was handed to him ; he went carefully through
it; put a few questions as to other parts of it, which were

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 159

satisfactorily answered ; and he returned it to the witness, with
every demonstration of entire satisfaction.

"After a few inquiries as to the witness''s name, business,
residence, etc., which were answered agreeably to the account
which he had previously given me, the case was sent to the jury,
and the prisoner at once acquitted.

"I now left the court, ruminating on so extraordinary a
coincidence of circumstances, which had saved the life of a
human creature, who was, doubtlessly, innocent of the crime laid
to his charge.

" On arriving at my inn, I found the stranger had hastily
devoured his dinner, and was already about to start. He barely
wished me good day, and disappeared.

" The truth remains to be told. The ' mercantile gentleman **
was the accomplice and fellow -murderer of the acquitted
prisoner ! "*' ^

On my return to Cahirciveen, having taken leave of my
excellent and philanthropic friend, the surgeon, I began to make
preparations for my own departure. I had now spent three
weeks at this lovely spot ; and, I believe, three weeks of more
unmixed amusement could hardly again, by any circumstances,
be achieved. There had been no lack of society — the mild,
modest, and learned priest, Mr. F , had been always a re-
source ; and between him and my hilarious and downright host,
Mr. John O'Connell, all my unemployed evenings were pleas-
ingly disposed of.

I cannot bid farewell to the Iveragh, without bearing testi-
mony to the effect produced among the populace by a kind and
judicious intercourse with their superiors. No part of Ireland
will be found more tranquil or free from crime than this district
— the very meanest of the tenants, poor though indeed they are,
still cherish, in honour of their landlord, D. O'Connell, a jealous

1 Since this recital was made, I am informed some of the outlines have
been before published. The facts and particulars are, however, I believe,
exactly those I have set forth.

160 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

regard to the general reputation. What I have elsewhere said
of the Kerry peasantry will be found peculiarly applicable to
this — here, indeed, are not seen any of those exhibitions of
violence among themselves, so much to be deplored in many
counties — ^here we shall not find, as elsewhere, a spirit of litiga-
tion, too much encouraged by the cheap law which the courts
of the assistant barristers present. I have, indeed, been informed
that O'ConnelPs tenants, by far the larger proportion of the
inhabitants of this district, have a court of their own — a court
of appeal personally to him, and to the settlement of their dis-
putes— to an investigation into their wants, and an unremitting
endeavour to alleviate them, is he, during his stay at Derrynane,
chiefly devoted.

I cannot say that the peasantry are unhappy — their wants
are of the simplest order, and they appear perfectly content
when those are supplied. The proximity of this county to the
lively inhabitants of the continent has also had its influence —
and I was at first somewhat surprised to find men and women,
without shoes or stockings, submitting to the instructions of
the dancing-master and piper, evening after evening. I found,
indeed, that the former wsis a regularly-paid official, and his
labours were in continual demand through the summer. The
Sunday evening is, of course, a general jubilee, in which all
passers-by are requested to join. My prejudices were soon
overcome.

How can the English suffer themselves to be so grossly
deluded as to fly to the continent in search of scenic beauty or
economy ! This beautiful spot presents both, without the con-
comitant opprobrium of exile. What part of the continent
presents the combined advantages of all wild sports to be in-
dulged in, without the landlord's leave — ^good society, and
cheapness that will erect a pittance into a handsome income ?
Where are our half- pay sojourners.? — in Tours, Boulogne, or
Bordeaux, where they are considered only intruders, and
despised as persons necessarily expatriated. The danger of

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 161

living in the remote parts of Ireland is a general suggestion.
Danger ? In no land is peace more profound — in none are the
inhabitants more gentle and obliging than in the wilds of
Iveragh ?

Cahirciveen, farewell ! Had not pursuits that necessarily
call me to a varied intercourse with the busy world heavy claims
on my exertions, I could be well content to erect my cottage on
thy verge, and tranquilly eke out the remainder of life amid thy
sports and beauties !

My movables being all safely stowed on board my little
bark — my crew in high spirits at the prospect of revisiting
their native town — we set off for Dingle, the capital of the ex-
treme west of Kerry. This passage is sometimes effected in three
hours, and abounds in objects of beauty ; bold shores, skirted
by lofty rocks, tenanted by innumerable wild birds of every
species, while the surface of the bay is blackened with flocks of
puffins and teal. The mackerel were now in the bay, and, with
the glass, I could perceive the opposite shore dotted with black
specks, formed by the numerous fishing -boats from Dingle.
There was no lack of amusement in the passage. Our lines, out
astern for mackerel, were productive, and we were continually
under the necessity of altering our course to take up the produce
of my double-barrel. I had by this time become skilful in
shooting wild-fowl. It is not an easy acquirement. The boat's
motion, being always crossed by the motion of the birds
swimming on the rising seas, will render some practice necessary.
They must be caught just as they attain the summit of the
wave.

As we approached the Ventry shores, numerous boats stood
towards us, and many and hearty were the greetings of the
fishermen, who had so long lost their companions, constituting
my crew. The attachment of these people to each other is
remarkable — there is not even any competition in the sale of
their produce. The hucksters, who attend their arrival every
evening, for the purpose of conveying the fish up the mountains

M

162 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

to Tralee and through the country, are always prepared to
take the whole, and the prices rarely vary. They are generally
at this rate : — whiting, 5d. per dozen, of thirteen ; mackerel.
Is. 4d. per hundred ; cod, or hake, 9d. per dozen ; and all
other fish in proportion. The mode of division of the proceeds
is on a principle also that ensures unanimity. There are six
men to a boat, which is generally hired of some large pro-
prietor. For the boat is put aside two shares ; the rest equally
divided.

The harbour of Dingle is well adapted for yachting; yet,

with the exception of a pretty vessel belonging to Dr. B ,

a physician of considerable eminence, it has none of the
advantages arising from aquatic amusements. The town is
superior to those in other parts of Ireland of much greater
pretensions ; it affords excellent lodgings, and is surrounded by
seats of resident gentry.

The inhabitants of Dingle appear to have more comforts
— are better employed, and better paid than at most other
places — while the improvements, continually progressing under
the influence of landlords who take an interest in the manage-
ment of their own property, have contributed much to the
social advantages of the poor. The bay is a source of endless
wealth, being never without abundance of fish of all kinds.
Here also, with letters of introduction, good society would be
found ; and the open hospitality of Ireland, so fast disappearing
from the more mercantile districts, would be fully recognised.

In addition to the sea-fishing, a white trout river will be
found very abundant in the smaller kind; as, also, excellent
grouse-shooting. I believe none of the mountains are preserved.
I wish I could speak of the general state of this part of Kerry
in the same favourable terms as of that on the Iveragh side.
Here the chief landlord, as usual, deserts his domain — here
the tenants are abandoned to the tender mercies of agents,
while the proprietor dissipates in a foreign land the sums
extracted from the extreme wretchedness of the poor.

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 163

What can be the object of the elaborate dissertations daily
issuing from the press on the causes of distress in Ireland?
The cause is as obvious as the remedy is difficult of attainment.
No money is spent in Ireland. The produce of the soil, either
in the shape of money or exportations, is transmitted to the
original proprietors, who return no portion to the labourer —
the whole is elsewhere dissipated. The only source of employ-
ment— tillage of the ground — furnishes no means of provision
for a rapidly increasing population. Manufactures — the arts —
all but the meanest exercise of man''s faculties, tillage — are
absent. Rents increase in the ratio of increased numbers, and
the competition for land among those who must live — and
live only by the labour applicable to it — has reduced the
peasantry to the lowest means of subsistence. Money they
have none — labour they can alone offer as rent — and it is by
no means uncommon to find one hundred and fifty days of
the year devoted to the payment of the rent for a miserable
hut and plot of bog ground, that would not be valued in
England at three pounds per annum.

What might not a patriotic spirit in the proprietors of
the soil effect for the Irish people ! Nothing is required but
another direction for labour. Mills on the streams — manu-
factories on the coasts — ships for their naturally formed
harbours — all not only within the means of the landed
proprietors, but, offering certain success, might raise this
country to a noble competition with any. As it is, neglected,
or utterly deserted by those who should direct the people's
energies, it presents only a scene of destitution and misery,
which, with the number of the sufferers, must continue to
increase. Poorer, however, they can hardly be — they are
already reduced to the potato alone — braver and more
determined they may be !

" Sure, and myself will spake to his honour ; faith and it's
I have the best right. Keep back, Paddy Shea — would you
be 'truding to his honour's own room ? "

164 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

Confused voices accompanied this remonstrance, till I gave
out intimation that Owen should singly appear.

" Well, Owen, what do the crew want ? ^

" Faith, they want a holiday — it's a wake up the hill ; and
sure, sis I, his honour must go to the great wake.*"

" Whose wake is it, Owen ? "

" It's the wake of a great farmer, your honour, and he fell
down the other day.*"

"Fell down!"

"Faith he did, and died outright. His widow is making
a wake for him that would do honour to the country, and has
sent to beg your honour to be one of the howlei's.*'*'

"But how can I assist .^ I never knew the deceased, nor
the way to lament.""

" Oh, ifs no lament, any way. Your honour will be sure
to be plased there.****

Owen**s importunities were not to be overcome ; and, as it
was quite clear that nothing was to be done without the
assistance of my crew, I promised to accompany my Jidits
Achates to the scene of mourning.

We had to walk three or four miles up the mountain, a
task I did not perform with the same ease as my attendants ;
and I really began to estimate, at the full value, the opportunity
about to be afforded us of refreshing our griefs. On our
approach to the door of the deceased farmer, a lamentation
burst forth that at once showed the fact that our arrival was
the appointed signal for the ebullition. The widow, with
dishevelled hair, was at the foot of the bedstead which
sustained the coffin, her head buried in her hands, which were
only occasionally raised to beat her breast, which was nearly
bare, and thump the coffin. Such demonstration of violence
in grief was really painful, but remonstrance was in vain.
The bystanders took no notice whatever of the hard thumps
she inflicted on her bosom; her face, which one occasionally
caught a glimpse of, was heated with her exertions in screaming

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 165

— every one joined — indeed, before my little band had entered
the house, they had commenced with all energy, and entered
howling. The din was distracting — as, in every variety of
tone, men, women, and children, all seemed determined to
show their affection for the deceased by the goodness of their
own lungs.

The first impression made on the mind by the Irish howl
is really a painful one. The tone of lamentation, so prolonged
and loud, conveys the feeling of a sudden and irremediable
grief; but, as my ear became accustomed to the sound, I
ventured to look into the faces of the most sonorous of the
party — there was almost an instant revulsion to the ridiculous.
Not an expression of seriousness even seemed to accompany
the howl — the muscles of the face were all perfectly quiescent ;
and so great was the philosophic bearing of some of the ladies
of the party, that I perceived they were examining and altering
some parts of their dress, but in no degree relaxing in their
stentorian efforts. One was deliberately putting on her
stockings, which had been, as usual, carried with her shoes,
not worn while walking to the scene of grief, and were to be
put on only for effect on her arrival. Another was arranging
the stray bands over her forehead ; while here and there, amid
the party, might be observed a steady and ragged old gentle-
man, who would suspend operations for a few whiffs at a short
black pipe, and then recommence as a giant refreshed.

While the din was at its height, a person, obviously of some
importance, stalked into the room — there was an instant
cessation of the howl. Every one for himself; the widow arose
and calmly headed the party, now consisting of at least forty,
and led the way to the large kitchen. There were pipes, porter,
whiskey, and a blazing fire. It was amusing to see Owen,
who had howled as effectively as the best, entreating the ladies
to suffer him to assist them to whiskey, and performing all
the little offices of attention with an air that soon constituted
him a favourite. Of course he took care of me, and I was

166 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

soon seated, with a long pipe and a tumbler of whiskey-punch,
in the best chair the kitchen presented. The conversation,
which now became general, was translated to me by Owen,
but did not at all refer to the solemn cause of the meeting.
I learned, however, that the deceased had been one of the
numerous victims of the " good folk '"' ; that is, had been be-
witched by some fairy. No greater or more satisfactory proof
of the fact could exist than in the circumstance of his having
been, previously to his death, utterly incapable of swallowing
a glass of whiskey — an operation he had never for many years
omitted. The man had really died of jaundice ; I doubt not,
indeed, by intemperance; but which, had it been subjected
to medical treatment, would not, in all probability, have proved
fatal. The impression, however, that he had been " banned " by
the " good folk " was irremovable.

"Is it the good people?" exclaimed the steady old man,
who now intermitted his whifFs and burst into tolerable English ;
" and if it was night, now, Td tell the story of 'em."

This appeared to give proof of determination enough.
These temble good people are powerless, it seems, in the daylight.

" Wasn't it myself escaped by a wondrous miracle ? "

"To be sure and it was yourself, any way,*" reiterated
numerous voices.

" It was night, and I slept alone by myself, only the childer
and the pigs, when what should I hear but a knocking that
would have aroused the dead. ' Oh, oh ! ' sis I, ' the whiteboys
are up and doing, and it's meself will see the fun, any way ' ; so
with that I got on my clothes, and looks cautiously through the
door-cranks. The moon was bright — the divil a whiteboy there.
Knock ! knock ! again at the door. ' Hallo there ! ' sis I,
courageously, seeing there was nobody there, and open I throws
the door. There were rows of little people all dressed in fine
scarlet cloaks, and mounted upon small chargers, for all the
world as complate as a regiment of foot, with drawn swords no
bigger than a needle. ' Come on,' sid they, ' to the wood, Paddy

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 107

Brady.** 'And that' s meself,' sis I, 'and here's for you.' Off
went the elves at full gallop, and faith it took my best strides
to keep up with 'em. Over rocks and bogs we went — never a
sink for horse or foot till we halted on the ridge of a lake.
There was a dead silence, and I wondered what next was to
come ; when a small fairy, with a long flowing red mantle, spoke
to me. ' Paddy Brady,' sis he, ' if you are secret, you'll come to
no harm.' — ' Faith, and I'll be that same,' sis I. — ' Look down
on the lake,' sis he. Oh, the wonderful sight ! — the bottom of
the lake, clear as day, was covered with skeletons of men, all
alive and kicking. ' It's the skeletons of the race that spoke of
the good people,' sis he ; ' and beware, Paddy Brady ! ' Hereupon
began a dance, the likes of which one wouldn't aisily see again,
though Murphy, the dancing-master and piper, should try his
hardest. All at once a stop — and the little man with the red
cloak again comes up to me. ' Read,' sis he, ' that paper.' —
' Faith and I can't,' sis I. — ' Tim Murdock's wife,' sis he. — ' Tim
Murdock's wife,' sis they all, and fell to dancing again. The
little man agin ordered the stop, and cried out, ' A cooleen ! ' —
' A cooleen ! a cooleen ! ' cries all the band.

" There stuck I, wondering what the divil was the maning of
all this — my knees began to totter as I looked into the lake
again — there were all the skeletons, dancing as the elves danced,
and doing in imitation all that they did.

" Oh, fear came upon me thin — my hair bristled up till it
forced the hat off* my head. ' What for is this ? ' sis I. — ' Silence,'
sis he ; ' you're hearing the names of the banned.'' — ' Och hone ! '
sis I ; ' I'll be after telling them,' sis I, unawares like. Crash
went the rock — in went the moon — down tumbled I from crag
to crag, an endless fall, till, after travelling in this disagreeable
manner, cracking my ribs against rocks as I rolled, slush into
the lake I fell — 'twas there that Terry O'Rourke found me —
and sure, haven't I the marks of the wounds I got in my fall ? "

All signified perfect conviction in the truth of the events
related by the ragged old gentleman, who resumed his pipe with

168 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

a consciousness of dignity that greatly tried my ability to restrain
laughter.

Our life is twofold, sleep hath its own world.

The truth is, that Paddy Brady had doubtlessly got very
drunk and had fallen down in his road homeward. Paddy Brady
had dreamed the rest, and had recounted the story till he almost
himself believed in the reality.

The whiskey and pcyriher ^ had now progressed, and perhaps
would have proceeded much further, but that a sudden och hone
from the adjoining room denoted the recommencement of the
orgies. Down went the glasses and pipes. "Och hone, och
hone," joined all, and in two minutes all were again around the
corse of the departed. At every cessation there was the same
recourse to whiskey and pipes — the same fairy stories were told,
only with less perspicuity ; and it was one o'^clock when, accom-
panied by Owen, I left the company, to fight out the remainder
of the night (an exercise they had already begun), or to sleep
off the effects of their inebriety.

Such was the Irish wake ! the original institution was, per-
haps, intended to have been expressive of grief and condolence.
It is as much a custom with the mountaineers, and fraught
with as little real feeling as the attendance of mutes at an
English funeral. I must not, however, do these poor people the
injustice of allowing it to be inferred that they are wanting in
attachment to each other, or in sorrow for their bereavement ;
they are remarkable for both ; but the custom of congregating
their friends on the occasion of a death is one, by me at least.

More honoured in the breach than in th' observance.

^ Visitors to remote districts in Ireland who dislike Irish whiskey, will
do well to remember that, in the humblest villages, it is nearly always
easy to get the very best porter. — Ed.

CHAPTER XIV

To the Shannon — Mountain Scenery — Profusion of Wild-Fowl and Hares
— Listowel — Extempore Dinner — Cheap Travelling — Excellent Sport
— Primitive Cooking — Mill Street — Extraordinary Cheapness of Living
— Extreme Wretchedness of the Inhabitants— First View of the Queen
of Irish Rivers, the Shannon — Athlone — Ballinasloe Fair — Onions and
Eels — Athlone Bridge — Lough Ree — The Shannon — Splendid Tract of
Country — Suitable Harbour for Shipping.

The time had now arrived when I had proposed to try the
celebrated Shannon, the Queen of Rivers. Discharging, there-
fore, my little crew (and, I confess, with extreme regret, as they
had, by their unflinching industry, hardihood, and general
temperance, greatly attached me to them, and contributed in a
high degree to my amusement while lingering in the peaceful
Kerry), I set out, accompanied by Owen, but to what point I
should direct my wanderings I had not determined, leaving much
to chance. The convenience of my pony carriage assisted my
views of stopping wheresoever the scenery amused or the rivers
gave intimation of sport.

After leaving Tralee, we traversed the base of the Stacks and
Glanruddery mountains ; immense ranges, which seemed to guard
the island from the encroachments of the wide and cerulean
Atlantic, over which, from the road, were presented splendid views.
The immense concourse of wild-fowl, which here seem wholly
unmolested, would perhaps have seduced a more devoted shot
from his way ; but I pressed on, only carrying my gun as we
ascended the precipitous hills on foot. I found no difliculty in

170 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

killing a few hares ; plentiful, indeed, throughout Kerry, and of
so little value that the extreme price is sixpence at any time.
I found also immense flights of cormorants, wild geese, and
swans, which evidently have, time immemorial, bred in these
untraversed mountains. I could get no opportunity of securing
any of them.

On our arrival at Listowel, I was resolved to spend at least
one day in traversing the river, which passes through the town
and falls into the sea at Mill Street. With this view we slept
at Listowel.

The appearance of the town is in the highest degree wretched,
presenting all the worst features of the Kerry villages. Civilisa-
tion has yet made no stride towards the skirts of the mighty
Atlantic, for here nakedness among children seemed the prevail-
ing fashion.

We had traversed with great difficulty the banks of the Feale
without any chance of rest or refreshment, until we arrived at a
few huts, dignified by the title Innsmore, which boasted only of
a " public,''* of the poorest order. We were heartily wearied, as
the banks were boggy and rocky alternately, the former com-
pelling us sometimes to go a mile round before we could, with
any safety, rejoin the river.

The result of our labours amounted only to a few trout, and
those not of the best order. However, a selection of the largest
among them soon furnished a tolerable dinner. It consisted of
excellent potatoes, whiskey and water (which we had brought
with us, uncertain that we could be supplied on the road),
boiled and baked trout. The cost of our banquet was six-
pence for potatoes, oatmeal, bread, and cooking, and a good
turf-fire.

From Innsmore we pushed forward to the point about two
miles from the village, where the Feale receives the river Gale,
a shallow but rapid river, from the mountains. Notwithstand-
ing the objections of Owen, I was determined to give this fall a
fair trial. At a distance of some yards from the spot we lighted

Good Cooking, any way."

Facing page 171

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND l7l

a good fire, which may be almost everywhere among the rocks
easily accomplished by the abundant supply of dry weeds and
bog-wood, which the overflowing streams have lodged in the
clefts. This arrangement first made, I prepared two rods, fitted
with strong tackle, as the appearance of the water, the deep
lodges which here and there terminated the streams, gave good
token of a salmon. On endeavouring to decide on the depth, I
was somewhat surprised to find my reel nearly naked of line.
I am disposed to believe that it was above thirty yards deep.

We had no success with the salmon-roe, while Owen, pursuing
the river, was busy with the small brown trout, which had
doubtless belonged to the smaller river, and had come down
from the mountains. They were worthless, as, indeed, are most
of the mountain trout. At length, a tug at the end of my rod
indicated the presence of some stronger antagonist. I called to
Owen for his gaff, and began to reel up my prize. The first
spring from the surface showed that we had a chance of a
" good cooking, any way,"" as Owen expressed it ; and, after a
labour of some minutes, our prey was duly crimped and supported
across the turf-fire by three triangular sticks, which presented a
dish fit for a noble's banquet.

Perhaps I am travelling out of the record in saying a dish —
if it constituted one, it was of easy manufacture, being nothing
more than a large flat stone from the shallows of the river,
polished by many an age of flood. Owen baked the potatoes,
and my small wallet furnished the few condiments our desert
journey rendered desirable.

While we were busily engaged in performing the last oflices
for the defunct salmon, I was again called to the relief of my
second rod ; it was a salmon again. I had in this pool three
runs, and killed three fish; two of which, being about eight
pounds each, we carried to Mill Street.

I had disdained to attempt the trout of this river; and,
therefore, fished no part but the hole where the two streams
meet. I do not doubt, however, but that this spot, after floods

172 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

especially, would furnish almost continual sport through the
year.

The rivers in this neighbourhood appear to have remained
untouched. The fishermen of Mill Street being all seamen,
the splendid supply which in fine weather they can command in
the mouth of the Shannon, supersedes all attention to the minor
rivers.

Mill Street is beautifully situated at the termination of the
Feale, bounded on one side by a high range of mountains.
There is, also, a small stream, which runs by the town, abounding
in small trout from the sea, taken, not unfrequently, after floods,
by the hand in the shallows.

Less, perhaps, is known of the inhabitants of this part of
Ireland than of any other. The intercourse with any large
town is confined to such communication as necessarily springs
from the supply they receive of such articles as are required for
the ordinary wants of life. There is not even a road by which
the produce of the sea, their chief wealth, can be conveyed to
any considerable distance. The consequence is, that every
article which is of native production is sold at ruinously low
prices. I saw a pig hanging from one of the cottages — killed
to pay rent. It weighed eighty pounds, and was offered to me
at six shillings. Of course the luxuries of life — that is to say,
tea, sugar, and clothing — are in the same ratio, dear.

The miserable state of poverty in which the inhabitants pass
their lives is almost indescribable; and if one had not beheld
destitution even more destitute in the larger towns of Ireland,
from a view of Mill Street, the traveller would be induced to
say, " Surely life cannot be less life than here."'

It was at four o*'clock on the first dawn of a glorious summer
morning that, on ascending a hill out of the town of Listowel,
on the road to Tarbert, the wide expanse and magnificent
waters of the justly celebrated Shannon burst on my view. The
green surface of the land on either side, which now bore the
appearance of a velvet carpet spread over the beauteous face of

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 178

the soil, was reflected in the dark and silent stream with a
brilliancy that no glass could imitate. Every object, however
minute, was faithfully portrayed in the Narcissian mirror.

And this is the Shannon, whose course divides almost into
natural provinces the vast regions through which its waters
glide — the Shannon — Nature's canal — formed to convey to and
from the inhabitants of a prolific land their manufactures and
productions.

In the lower part of the river, however, there is little hope
for the sportsman ; the body of the stream is too large for the
angler ; with the exception, therefore, of the tributaries which
fall into the Shannon, which, with no great success, I en passant
tried, the sportsman would be ill employed who would follow
this stream.

Packing up, therefore, our apparatus, we determined, without
loss of time, to push forward for Athlone — the embouchure of
Lough Ree, of which station report had highly raised our
expectations.

Athlone, however, bears more marks of civilisation ; it has a
tolerable street ; women occasionally wear stockings and shoes,
and some of the children are clothed. I found it impossible to
obtain lodgings, from the crowded state of the town, this being
the Ballinasloe fair — perhaps the largest cattle fair in England
or Ireland. The inns make this their harvest ; and the reader
will be surprised to hear that ten shillings and sixpence per
night, for a miserable bedroom, was demanded at the meanest
of them. As, however, my purpose was not to deal in cattle, I
sent Owen to the little " public "" situated on the mouth of the
lake. Having made some arrangements, he returned to me,
horror-stricken at some sights which had not very favourably
impressed him with the population.

" If s impossible they should be rale Irishers. Ifs enough to
condemn them all — eels, snakes as long as my arm, onions stuck
in their mouths — and they offer to cook them, and give ''em
as food."

174 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

I found Owen was right; there were, indeed, eels — and in
such abundance, exposed at every shop, whiskey-hovel, or lodging
window — eels of three, four, or five pounds, which would seem
to imply that they constituted the chief food of the people.
This turned out to be the fact. These animals descend the
Shannon in such multitudes, that, in the autumn, after the
flood, the rapids and falls in the narrower parts of the river need
only be crossed by a purse net, and tons weight of eels are
frequently taken in one night. Although, throughout Kerry, I
could never prevail on the people to cook, much less to eat them
— at Athlone, if one may judge from the abundant display, they
are in the highest repute.

We now took possession of our little apartment on the
borders of the celebrated Lough Ree.

The first thing that aroused my surprise at Athlone was the
continued exposure for sale of trout of eight, ten, or fifteen
pounds each, which seemed to excite no admiration among the
people. I believe the Shannon produces the largest in the
world; and, though difficult to capture, yet success in one
instance amply repays days of disappointment. I was almost
angry at the sight of such splendid creatures, sold for the merest
trifle, and apparently regarded with less respect than the eels
which satiated the town.

At the old town bridge there will be found a considerable
fall in the river, which afterwards joins the main body of the
stream below Athlone, constituting a little vortex. After
having procured a boat, I first cast my line on this spot.
Owen's labour and my own were without effect. Not a rise —
not an appearance of a fish. We floated down the stream two
or three miles, still accompanied by disappointment ; nor was it
till the evening began to set in, that we returned to the spot
from whence we had first started. I now changed my tackle for
the salmon-roe, and, having well loaded my hook, sent it off to
seek its fortune in the whirlpool. The difficulty I found in
fishing this spot was the extreme depth, at least forty feet ; and.

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 175

unless the roe was well put on, and wholly covered the hook, I
found, before it had reached the bottom, the latter was frequently
bare. As soon as I had corrected this error and effectually
commanded the bottom, success followed. A tug, that nearly
took rod and all from my hand, aroused my hopes of the new
bait — new, indeed, to these fish, among which it had never been
tried.

" Huzza ! '*'* exclaimed Owen, in an ecstasy ; " here's the
Shannon trout, any way ; and it's your honour's the only man
can catch 'em." But, alas ! I could not hold them ; fish after
fish broke away, and, after an evening's hard work, we found
ourselves only masters of five fish, from three to seven pounds
each.

The day is unfavourable to Shannon fishing. Like other
large animals of prey, their motion is too slow to enable them
to catch the smallest fish in full light; twilight, therefore, is
the time of their hunting, and should be that of the fisherman
in all these rivers and lakes. Having returned to our little inn,
I requested permission to accompany two of the Lough Ree
fishermen, who lived in cottages close by our little hotel, and
who principally supplied the inns and inhabitants of the town
with fish. In this I had little difficulty ; and, making prepara-
tions, therefore, for a night out, and not forgetting those
essential portions of such arrangements, whiskey and tobacco,
we set forth with muffled oars. The navigation of Lough Ree
is dangerous in the extreme. My crew luckily knew every turn ;
and, as they prepared their long lines, I and Owen were busy
with our flies. The success with the lake trout was trifling, not
one having been captured of more than a pound weight.

The process of shooting the long lines was now begun. At
every yard was a hook of the size of the whiting hook, and
about two inches of a tolerably-sized eel, well twisted on each
hook. I did not anticipate that such a bait would be effective
for trout.

The number of hooks was two hundred, and the line was

176 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

cast, or, as the boatmen say, shot, just as has been previously
described. The result, at daylight, was twenty- two trout, vary-
ing from three to five pounds, several large eels, and two very
large pike. The amusement was not exciting, and, though we
endeavoured to keep up the hilarity of the evening by Owen's
songs and our boatmen's stories of their English wanderings, it

Prepared for a Night Out.

must be confessed that fishing on Lough Ree is, to use the
current expression — slow.

There is a change of character worthy of remark as we
approach the more northern part of Ireland ; Owen's disgust
had manifestly assumed a more intense feeling, as he besought
me not to remain on the Shannon ; the inhabitants, he assured
me, were heartless and cruel ; that they had larned every kind
of cheating; and that, for himself, he could have no chance

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 177

whatever with them ; even the boatmen expressed extreme dis-
satisfaction on Owen's presenting them, for their midnight
company, three shilHngs, a sum that would exceed the produce
of many a night's toil. I was not long in discovering the true
cause of these peculiarities, for so I must term them, in the
Athlone and Shannon "boys." At Athlone there has been
long established a barracks, and it is now held as a station for
several regiments. The officers have, in some measure, imitated
the Killarney visitors ; and I took leave of Lough Ree without
regret, and abandoned all the joys of onions and eels for the
better fare of Galway salmon.

The Shannon is, indeed, the queen of rivers ; navigable for
nearly two hundred and thirty miles through the interior of the
richest tract of country in the world ; abundant in every pro-
duction that a river should present to the angler ; but the sail-
ing on the loughs is dangerous, and the river itself too rapid.
Although, on all the loughs, vessels, or rather yachts of all
kinds may be observed, like beautiful phantom ships, gliding
over the dark waters of the endless lakes, yet the continual
occurrence of hidden rocks, and those just emerging from the
surface, renders the utmost skill of the pilot necessary; nor,
indeed, without his assistance, should any one venture on the
water. It were safer sailing on the wide Atlantic.

Upon the whole, I do not think the fishing of the Shannon
agreeable. I say little of it, indeed, on that account ; it is a
style too much resembling sea-fishing; it must be long line
sport or none, as the fly may in general as well be cast on the
broad sea-shore as on these inland oceans. The river presents
no better sport ; a week's trial convinced me that nothing but
the baited line at night, or the sweeping and execrable net, can
be rendered available. I did not, however, try the tributary
streams, where, I do not doubt, in the spring and autumn, great
sport might be found; as, at those periods, the best fish are
found in the shallowest rivers. It must, however, be remembered
that nothing but the salmon-roe or the minnow will at those

N

178 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

seasons succeed ; with these the natives are wholly unacquainted,
relying on the more wholesale methods of netting or night-lining.
In speaking of the splendid tract of country through which
the Shannon flows, it is impossible to refrain from expressing
deep regret that so little has been done to secure the advantages
which ought to have been derived to Ireland. Nature, indeed,
seems to have pointed out this tract as the harbour for shipping,
commanding the whole continent of America by a direct and
safe passage. If to the lower harbour, formed by this splendid
river, could be cut a railroad, either from Dublin or Cork,
Ireland would at once become a new country, and commercial
prosperity would begin to relieve the oppression of a now too
abundant population.

CHAPTER XV

Gal way — Mr. Keogh — Fishing in Lough Corrib — First Failure of the
Infallible Bait — Its Causes — A New Acquaintance — The Monastery —
Claddagh — Its Antiquity — Forms of Marriage — Dress of the Females
— Respect paid to the Dead — Prevalence of the Cholera — Benevolence
of the Rev. Father Fay — Protestants and Catholics — History of James
Lynch Fitzstephen, the Mayor of Galway.

Having left the valley of the Shannon, the country again
assumes the barren and uncultivated garb ; masses of rocks,
with scarcely a spot of verdure, arising abruptly from amidst
the deep green plains of bog, over which, as the coach rolled
on, might be observed, for hundreds of yards, a succession of
undulations that carried somewhat of fear to the inexperienced
traveller, lest the road, the only firm spot over the boundless
morass, should at any part give way and entomb the voyagers.
The entrance to Galway, however, gave back all the beauties of
land and ocean ; at one burst from a hill the broad Atlantic
presents herself, covered with white dots, the boats of the
Galway fishermen ; and the white smoke, extending along the
shore of the creek, indicates the approach to what is still a large
and considerable city ; but what, alas ! was once the capital of
Western Ireland.

I cannot easily describe the sensation of pleasure I experi-
enced in my first walk through Galway, a spot to which my
highest hopes of success in angling had been directed; the
town, through which a salmon river still runs, and in which the
silvery tenants had not, through a succession of ages, decreased.

180 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

Taking my stand on the venerable bridge, through which the
trembhng waters of Lough Corrib, a lake of sixty miles extent,
fall into the bay, I gazed steadfastly on the transparent stream ;
masses of black, here and there, covered the bottom, forming
the appearance of seaweed, gently moved by the course of the
waters, till occasionally by a silvery flash, here and there, was
seen the delicate white of the salmon ; those masses were con-
stituted of fresh-run fish, congregated in preparation for their
annual voyage to the vast lake.

Having marked the spots where they were thus clusteringly
placed, I betook myself to the inn, soon unpacked my tackle,
and, presenting myself at the gate of Mr. Keogh, the liberal
renter of the river, requested his permission to try my fortune.
This was promptly given, and in a few minutes I was on the
wall which divides the stream from the weirs. Mr. Keogh
accompanied me, but did not give me hope of success. A short
time convinced me that his knowledge of the habits of the
Lough Corrib salmon exceeded mine ; not a rise to the most
attractive fly I could present cheered my expectations; and,
after two hours' hard labour, during which I had cast over the
very heads of some thousand salmon, I retired in disappointment.

This was not to be borne, and I immediately sought the
acquaintance of a gentleman, to whom Mr. Keogh recommended
me, as a thorough fisherman. I record what I consider my
good luck, because it may be serviceable to any sportsman who
may follow in my track. With that gentleman, at a very
moderate price, I immediately domiciled ; having, for twelve
shillings per week, an excellent furnished drawing-room and
two bedrooms, with all necessary attendance. I lost no time
in making my permanent arrangements for a sojourn in so
interesting a town.

I now learned that the only chance of success on the river
was at the dawn of day. At that time the fish, unscared by
the continual view of objects moving over the bridge, were on
the feed ; but that, in- fine weather, any attempt during the day

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 181

was fruitless. Furnishing ourselves, therefore, with a gaudy fly,
such as fresh-run fish are most likely to be attracted by, before
daylight in the morning my host was with me.

Early as we were on the scene of action, we had, neverthe-
less, been anticipated. Two anglers were there, and had well
thrashed the stream before us. My companion introduced me
to one, the Rev. Mr. F., who expressed his regret that he had
not known my intention to visit the river, as he would un-
doubtedly have left it for my amusement. This was so kindly
said that I was immediately prepossessed with my new acquaint-
ance, and requested his company to breakfast. In accepting
my invite he pointed to a fine salmon of nine pounds weight,
which he had just landed, as an addition to our commissariat.

It was necessary to allow the river some quiet before the fly
was again cast, and, changing our tackle, we threw for white
trout at a spot higher up than the salmon lodges. Success
quickly followed here; but with the humbler species of the
salmon I was dissatisfied ; the nobler game had already possessed
me, and I longed to try my chance with the roe. Candour
obliges me to record that in this river, for the first time in
Ireland, I was foiled; for, although I was convinced I so
managed to present the bait that it must have passed the noses
of the fish, not one noticed it.

The cause of this I at length discovered ; in this river the
fish do not spawn; they proceed through the lough to the
mountain streams, and, being fresh-run from the sea, they have
scarcely recovered from the violent transition from which they
necessarily suffer. The truth of this opinion was well established
by my subsequent success in the tributaries to the lake; in
those, the roe was the most effectual bait for the salmon.

On resuming the fly, however, I was successful, and my
companion not less so. In twenty minutes we had landed two
fine fish, which I was assured and found was the extent of the
sport we should meet; as the river, once fished down, was
generally no further productive for the day.

182 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

On my return to breakfast, I had the pleasure to find that
my new acquaintance, the priest, was my opposite neighbour ;
being the head of the monastery, a plain, though extensive
building, situated on the banks of the river. The establishment
consisted of twelve monks, and himself the prior. Their in-
comes arise from bequests, and were about fifty pounds per
annum each. They all had separate apartments, a common
hall for dining, the means of which were amply supplied by the
presents of the laity.

There was, indeed, abundance — but an abundance well
directed — at a certain hour, daily, might be seen the aged, the
destitute, and diseased, knocking at the door of the monastery,
and each receiving a portion, from the hands of the priest
himself, of that which charity had supplied.

We are greatly misled in estimating these institutions. The
services of the monks are, like those of the priests, services of
hardship ; nor is it uncommon for them to be absent among the
mountaineers for days, visiting and consoling the afflicted and
the dying. In this country, also, where no regulated provision
for the poor exists, they form the authority for the judicious
direction of charity; while themselves, independent of the
world, and having no claims on their assistance but those of
duty, are free to bestow all that is not necessary to the sustain-
ing their institution.

The prior had, as was the case with the rest, been educated
at Rome. Seven years had he passed within the walls of a
monastery, wholly devoting his labours to literature of all kinds.
I need not say that he was highly learned ; for, in addition to
that ordinary education which a college affords, he had traversed
the whole Christian world. I shall not easily forget the happi-
ness I derived from his society, nor be ungrateful for the
advantage it afforded.

Perhaps one of the most interesting features of Galway is
the fishing village called Claddagh. The name signifies in Irish
the sea-shore, on which it is situated. It is irregularly built,

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 183

and intersected by several narrow lanes, and contains about four
thousand inhabitants, who are exclusively employed in the bay
fishing. It has, like every part of this curious town, strong
characteristics of antiquity, and by some is assumed to have
been the original site of the earliest settlers' first habitations.
It constitutes a perfect colony ; and has, time immemorial, been
ruled by one of their own body, periodically elected; he is
dignified by the title of mayor, and, though a ragged repre-
sentative of the municipal power, satisfactorily settles all dis-
putes, and propounds laws by which the whole population are
governed. To him are all disputes referred, civil as well as
criminal ; and by him are they generally decided, without any
apparent disobedience to his decree. It appears they still
remain exempt from all government taxes, have no party feeling,
and never interfere with politics. In short, so perfect a speci-
men of the imperium in imperio will nowhere else be found.

The forms of marriage among these singular people are
worthy of notice ; they have no connection with the towns-
people, to whom they appear to entertain a decided dislike, and
their own marriages generally take place at a very early age :
fifteen being the usual time that is recognised for the man.
Having made his choice, the young couple elope, and, having
been two or three days absent, return, are pardoned, assigned a
dwelling, and commence as independent members of the com-
munity. It is remarkable that infidelity is unknown among
them ; nor, from all I could gain from my intelligent informant,
the priest, could I understand that jealousy was ever known to
exist. The fortune of the wife is the share in a boat.

The dress of the females, as among those of the inhabitants
of Galway and Connemara, still retains the characteristic of
their Spanish origin — the blue mantle, and red body gown,
petticoat of the same colour, and a blue or red cotton handker-
chief bound round the head. Sometimes the gaudy ribbon may
be observed, but the regulation among the Claddagh people is
strict, that none shall be allowed the use of this ornament who

184 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

cannot speak English. There is no difficulty in selecting the
lady one would address, though I should by no means advise
any brother sportsman to cultivate any particular admiration of
the Claddagh damsels ; the consequences might be more direct
than those of damages in an action duly recovered.

The respect shown to the departed friend is manifested in
an especial manner, by adjournment to the whiskey-shop; and
the measure of grief is ordinarily established by that of the
inspiring liquor served out to the survivors. The lamentations
continue the whole of the night, which is consumed in carousal
with the party attending the funeral. It has been observed
that this peculiarity seems to connect these people with the
Arabs, whose peculiar constitution it is to rejoice at the death of
their friends. There can be no doubt that the Irish wake ever
has been and still is a festival ; whether established for such an
occasion by sound philosophy or not, is still a problem I am
unable to solve ; this, I think, is certain — life is not made for
happiness — death may be so.

It is to us laymen, who presume to understand nothing of
the matter, but who are happy enough if we do all that we can
in the fair and right way, and can, as Izaak says, obtain health
and strength and leisure to go a-fishing — it is to us sometimes
amusing to listen to the opinions one set of reverend priests
express of priests of another class — it is amusing to hear the
Rev. Sydney Smith, the mouthpiece of all that is liberal in the
Church, in his bold and round manner lay down this position :

The Catholic faith is a misfortune to the world.

Yet can no one step into the humble habitation of the
dying labourer in Ireland, whose life, as it has been without
comfort, so the loss of it is attended with little to regret — ^yet
whose sorrowing relatives suiTOund him in all the bitter anguish
of the parting hour — no one can step in and view the consola-
tions offered by the priest, consolations not of forms, as too
often are all the solaces of the Catholic faith supposed to consist

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 185

of, and say the " Catholic faith is a misfortune to the world.""
To the Protestant world, our reverend friend and militant should
have said ; and to the Protestant world, small as it is in Ireland,
in particular.

But let us see how the Catholic religion is a misfortune to
the world.

In the summer of 1832 the Claddagh was more than any
other spot in Ireland the resting-place of the destructive and
horrific cholera; then might be seen in one house the dying
father laying out the lifeless corses of the mother and her
children ; the physician, even the druggist doctor, had abandoned
the place ; and death in his most frightful form, unchecked,
held on his way of devastation. The cholera was by no means
exclusive, nor made it any particular favourites, either with the
Protestant or Catholic — if one may be allowed to personify so
deep a blite, it may be well observed that the lady swept all
before her in Ireland; and even the decencies of life, which
protected as it was thought the rich in England, were here
unavailing.

Galway has its Protestant church, and takes all the tithes ; but
the Protestant clergyman, seeing how useful his services at that
moment might become elsewhere, bid adieu to Galway as the
cholera entered. Why should I hesitate to name the man who
has entitled himself to the love of all his parishioners. It was
the Rev. Father Fay, who, so far from abandoning his post, he
being at the time in the cure of the fishermen"'s city, ordered a
room to be fitted for himself in the very midst of destitution,
that he might be at hand to administer to the wants of the
countless sick and dying. Here was not only religious consola-
tion, but also for the exhausted and the fainting all the comforts
and restorations which the active priesthood had accumulated
from the general contributions of the people.

Nor were the inhabitants of the convent idle — not a call was
disobeyed — the habitations of wretchedness, disease, and death,
were alone entered by the priests ; their whole labour, and even

186 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

their slender means of support, were generously devoted to the
succour of the poor ; at the hour of midnight would the wearied
inmate of -the convent obey the summons, to traverse the
mountains during the descent of rains and floods, to give, as
they thought then, and believe now, consolation to the sick and
wretched. From such communicants could be obtained none of
those ENORMOUS fees which excite the indignation of the Pro-
testant clergy. No ! the fee, by which their exertions through
this terrible and destructive time were remunerated, was the
affection and confidence of their flocks, which can never be
removed.

Preach to the peasant the villainy of Catholicism — show him
how vile a faith he follows, and bid him remember the conduct
of the Irish priesthood during the cholera, and recall that of a

reverend rector of ! The result might possibly be that

the attentive listeners would, because it would be very impolite
to do otherwise, admit the proposition of the Rev. Sydney Smith,
that " the Catholic faith is a misfortune to the world," but he
might at the same time insinuate that it is useful in times of
cholera !

I am no Catholic, but I reverence the religion which produces
humane feelings and cherishes the exercise of kindness of heart.
What is it that some — slight enough — distinctions are to be
made, in those nobody seems agreed — shall such a cause take
from the deserving labourer in the vineyard of generous devo-
tion all the honour which his sincerity and exertion challenge !
Protestant England — alien in blood, language, and religion —
having seized for the propagation of her own religion, which is
not and cannot be that of the people, all the funds originally
intended for far other and more useful purposes, would at length
strip the Catholic priesthood of the influence which their merits
have created. It will be easy to curse the power of the Irish
priesthood; but, to destroy it, the same means must be used
which have created it among the people; let me see the
Protestant clergyman vie in good deeds to his fellow-men with

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 187

the priest ; let me see the same absence of all personal motive,
of pride, of state ; let me see the same conduct adopted, and the
Catholic power will be in jeopardy — not till then.

The singular good fortune of the priesthood, throughout the
prevalence of the terrific scourge to which I have referred, is
worthy of record. I believe not one fell a victim to the exercise
of his office and the discharge of his difficult duty. The venera-
tion now expressed by the populace must be to them the
proudest reward, and obviously exceeds that vast amount of
wealth which is delivered to the tender mercies of the aliens in
religion. Father Fay, whose courage in casting his lot amid
the dying fishermen has been spoken of, may be found in simple
guise, with an unassuming and quiet demeanour, peacefully cast-
ing his fly on the stream that runs through Galway ; as ready
with any information he can affbrd a stranger who seeks it, as
he is in the performance of the high duties attached to his office.

The scrupulous reverence which is paid to the ancient habi-
tation of the Lynch family, though now occupied by meaner
tenants, will, necessarily, excite the inquiries of the stranger ;
nor shall I deem any apology necessary for giving the whole of
the story with which it is connected. The romance of history
greatly exceeds that of imagination ; and, Avhile the stem deeds
of a Roman Father have been for ages extolled, the still firmer
mayor of Galway has fallen into oblivion, and nothing now
remains but the skull and cross-bones reverently preserved to
indicate the spot where the most terrible sacrifice of feeling to
justice was once made.

James Lynch Fitzstephen, an opulent merchant of Galway,
was elected mayor in 1493, at which time a regular and friendly
intercourse subsisted between the town and the several parts of
Spain. This mayor, who from his youth had been distinguished
for his public spirit, had, from commercial motives, on all
occasions encouraged an intercourse that proved so lucrative as
well to his fellow-townsmen as to the Spaniards ; and, in order
the more firmly to establish the connection between them, he

188 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

himself went a voyage to Spain, and was received when at Cadiz
at the house of a rich and respectable merchant named Gomez,
with the utmost hospitality and with every mark of esteem suit-
able to his high reputation, and to the liberality of his entertainer.
Upon his departure for his own country, wishing to make some
grateful return for the numerous civilities he had received from
the Spaniard, he invited his son, a youth of nineteen, to accom-
pany him to Ireland, promising to take parental care of him
during his stay. Young Gomez, who was the pride of his
parents, was rejoiced at this opportunity, and seized with ardour
the kind offer of his father's friend.

On their arrival at Galway, Lynch introduced the young
stranger to his family ; he was kindly received, and especially
taken as a companion to the son of his host, a young gentleman
of great acquirements, and enjoying the general respect of his
fellow-townsmen. His popularity was' so great, indeed, that he
might at any time have become the leader of the Galway men,
and could even have commanded the affections of his choice
among the Galway ladies. There was, nevertheless, some dis-
position to freedom in his attachments, which had in some degree
afflicted his father, who had ever been remarkable for the purity
of his life. The latter had, however, conceived hopes of an
entire reformation in his son, from the discovery of the fact
that he was deeply attached to a lady of great personal beauty
and accomplishments, the daughter of his warmest friend.

Anxious as he was that the mayoralty, an office which had
been thrust on him the year of his return from Spain, an office
of high importance and dignity, inasmuch as he was invested
with the full powers of judge, both in civil and in criminal
matters, should be sustained with unsullied honour, the prospect
of his son's succeeding him gave new pleasure to his life.

The attachment of the young men was matter of general
observation; they were seen together on all occasions; and,
even in the visits to the beautiful Agnes, they were seldom
separated. At length the English youth conceived a jealousy

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 189

of his companion''s attentions. It was confirmed by watching,
from the house of the beautiful Agnes, him who had been his
nearest friend. It was night : the streets were dark : his dagger
was buried in the bosom of the stranger, who, though wounded
unto death, staggered some distance towards the shore, whither
the relentless assassin pursued him, and cast the now lifeless body
into the sea.

On the coming morning the body had been cast up by the
tide, and the whole town was in consternation ; the mayor had
been summoned — a dagger was found on the shore, red with the
blood of its victim — one was only absent — it was he to whom
the dagger belonged — it was to the son of the mayor, who sat
in deliberation on the murder !

On the discovery of the criminal, he made no denial of the
deed, but avowed himself the murderer amidst the deepest
exclamations of remorse for the frenzied act. The disconsolate
yet determined parent consigned him to a prison ; public disgrace
awaited him, should he shrink from the performance of his
duty; the violated laws of hospitality must be vindicated.
The rigid severity he had, during the discharge of his functions
as mayor, exercised towards an unhappy criminal guilty of a
similar act, shut out the possibility of compromise, and sealed
the fate of his son.

Once only in the annals of men had so terrible a scene been
witnessed ; and it was left for the upright magistrate of a small
town in the west of Ireland to revive the glory or the horror of
consigning to death the son of his affections, as a sacrifice to
public justice.

On the promulgation of the inflexible sentence of death the
people became tumultuous and violent : they surrounded the
house of the heart-stricken magistrate; and, incensed by the
belief that justice was second to the feelings of nature, determined
on the rescue of their admired fellow-townsman. Some sugges-
tions were made, in order to pacify the people, that mercy would
be extended, and that the actual execution of the son was not

190 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

contemplated by the father. This was effectual, and prevented
the outbreak, which had become otherwise irrepressible. It was
at midnight that the stern father entered the cell of the criminal
— announced to him the certainty of his fate on the coming
mom, and banished from his mind all hope of escape. The
father wept and prayed by the side of his prostrate son, who
spoke no word: the exhortations of the priest were without
effect — with hope had departed reason ; still the father watched,
till the first ray of daylight warned him to act. At that
moment, looking into the vacant countenance of his son, the
heart gave way, and he fell on the upreared body, overwhelmed
by his feelings.

At length he arose, gave the necessary orders to the guards,
and, between the files of the soldiery, who had formed a strong
guard by the orders of the mayor — the priest supporting one
arm, and the father the other — the subdued culprit was con-
ducted to the place of execution. Who shall paint the conclud-
ing scene ? — a frantic mother, heartbroken sisters, met him at
the spot — the reproaches of the frenzied parent were loud against
the sternness of the magistrate, but ineffectual.

Demonstrations, however, among the populace arose ; shouts
from the armed mob of relatives, whom the wife had excited to
the rescue, surrounded the place of execution : it was amidst the
threats of the crowded thousands that the mayor took his son
in his arms. "My boy,'' said he, "thou hast only a few
moments of life. God may pardon thee ; I dare not. I may
end my life with thine, but cannot save it."*' And, before the
multitude could be aware of the intention, with his own hand
he placed the deadly cord round the neck of the criminal, and
launched him into eternity.

In the full expectation of instant death, from the fury of the
mob, the calm magistrate, with a dauntless countenance, presented
himself to their threatened vengeance : they were stayed by his
determination — a sudden sentiment of awful admiration prevailed,
and all peaceably retired. It was his last public act. The

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 191

father was never again seen but by the members of his secluded
family.

The house which was the scene of this terrific tragedy still
exists in Lombard Street, Galway ; and, though now tenanted
by more humble citizens, is still a spot regarded with reverence.
Over the window from which the unhappy culprit was suspended
may still be seen the monument which was erected to record the
deed. A skull, carved in stone, and cross-bones beneath, are all
that remain to mark the public virtue of the mayor of Galway.

CHAPTER XVI

Fishing in Lough Corrib — Enormous Trout — The Weirs — Perch and Pike
— Productiveness of the Weirs — Arrival of the Major — Difficulty of
getting a Fishing-Boat — Independence of the Fishermen — Herring
Fishery— The Mayor of the Claddagh— The Prior— The Priesthood-
Preparations for Sport.

On the second morning after my arrival at Galway, I took
care to be early on the wall. It is, perhaps, hardly credible
that, with dressing-gown and slippers only, I daily stepped from
my lodging, crossed the bridge, and secured a salmon — some-
times two, and, not unfrequently, white trout of a good size.
The latter are considered of little or no value, but are, never-
theless, of most dehcious flavour.

During one of the autumnal floods, when these fish run in
shoals into the lake, I was surprised by one of extraordinary
magnitude. I had two flies on my line, the dropper had been
chosen, and, in darting towards the bottom, a salmon took the
stretcher — I was close to the bridge — one fish took one arch,
downwards, and the other made a different choice, and, for
several minutes, so stout was the tackle, that the two fish were
suspended between the arches — a stream of immense volume
bearing on each.

My friend and host, seeing my difficulty, hastened to my
reHef, and with one blow of the boat-hook, which was close at
hand, so stunned the salmon, that, though by the concussion
freed from the line, he was easily taken by the landing-net ; the
other, being the stronger of the two, dashed down the stream,

>^ ^y v''„,.r.„..,...,,..'f. '-vf ii ■ 't f*

bo

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 193

and to him I abandoned my rod, which easily passed through
the arch to the dark pool below. Having with some difficulty
recovered it, I now began a fair contest, and, in a short time,
succeeded in landing a white trout of sixteen pounds. This size
is not unusual, and, when they are taken so large, exceed in
value the best salmon ; although, I believe, very few of this class
of fish are seen in London. Indeed, they seldom attain such a
size but in lakes of enormous magnitude, such as Lough Corrib.

From the lake to the weirs there is a long, flat river, in
which the more contemplative and unambitious angler may find
excellent sport, should he be adept in perch fishing. I believe
the whole of the river, at least, wherever the waters form a still
pool, is crowded with perch, and, with a common stick, and the
coarsest tackle, hundreds may be taken from one spot in a day.
They are not, however, esteemed, and the style of angling is
below the noble game the glorious lake and falling streams
should suggest. Pike are also taken with great ease, either by
trailing from a boat, or by the long line, baited with eels. So
abundant, however, is the supply of sea-fish from the noble bay,
that, when taken by the few fishermen who frequent the lake,
they are considered valueless. Threepence is considered a great
price for a pike of ten pounds.

Really, this is mortifying. The English angler, who, by a
due application, has at length extracted leave for a "day's
fishing" in some dull ditch or putrescent pond of an English
landholder, exults in having captured a pike or two; nor is
there any lack of broad direction on the basket he fills, addressed
to his nearest friend or most liberal patron. The prize is
spoken of as worthy of record. Visit Lough Corrib, and fill
your boat daily, without the mortification of having asked a
favour from the selfish owners of the water whence the supply
comes. The broad expanse of Lough Corrib — as are all the
lakes of Ireland, with the exception of those which are situated
in the desert of Ireland, Connemara — is open to all.

I must not, however, fail to notice that the river feading

o

194 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

from the Lough to the weirs presents admirable sport throughout
the summer and autumn, when the salmon are, as it is technically
called, running ; nor is it at all preserved. The fishery is below,
and at the weirs — all that escape the traps are free game, while
the salmon season lasts. So productive are the weirs, that, I
believe, the present rental is from c^SOO to ^^400 per annum.

According to an engagement made with the major, I deferred
my sea-fishing till his arrival at Galway, where we had appointed
to meet for the purpose of exploring the coast of Connemara.
I had written a full account of my success at the weirs and on
the lake, the relation of which so hurried his arrangements that
I was surprised by his presence some time before his promise.

His greeting was that of an old friend — obviously excited,
nevertheless, by feelings of strong jealousy — jealousy at the
advance I had made mthout his tuition and superintendence.
My friend, the prior, readily joined the evening party, to which
was added mine excellent host, whose society was really an
advantage, not included in the small sum which had been fixed
on as rent. His knowledge of the locale was invaluable, and I
owed much of the enjoyment I experienced, in my Galway visit,
to his assistance and direction.

The difficulty of getting a fishing-boat was discussed. We
had already visited the Claddagh, but, such was the independ-
ence of the fishermen, that there was no hope of obtaining, at
any reasonable remuneration, assistance from them.

The Claddagh men look upon the bay of Galway as their
inheritance — one which they have defended with a courage
which speaks better for their determination and spirit than for
their knowledge of law. They have, however, up to this period,
effectually prevented the use of the trawl, although frequently
attempted by gentlemen who had possessed yachts. Their
opinion is that such a mode of fishing is destructive of the
spawn, and that the disturbance of the shallows would end in
the destruction of the deep-sea fishing, from which, for a great
part of the year, they draw their subsistence.

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 195

At the herring time, however, the nets are in requisition,
and in this fishery all are joined. They have not the same mode
of taking the herring as will be noticed in the Scotch fisheries.
Whenever a shoal is indicated in Galway Bay, every boat is at
sea ; the nets are all fastened together, forming a circle of nearly
half a mile in circumference ; these are gradually drawn together,
and then begins the work of sport. The herrings are literally
scooped into the boats, as solid masses, and many tons are
frequently the reward of one night's toil. This is the harvest
of the fishermen, and, from the immense profit derived from the
short period of the herring visit, they are sustained through the
dreariness of the winter, when the sea-fishing is attended with
considerable danger.

But the Claddagh men are a noble race of independent
fellows, innocent in their lives, and determined in character.
Of their honesty, generally, there can be no suspicion ; and if
they do not possess the polish of citizens, they, at least, are not
deficient in the sterner virtues.

"The divil take the selfish loons!'' said the major: "not
^take hire for their beggarly washing-tubs of boats .? Maybe it's
a high market they want."

"I think not," said the prior. "There is little to tempt
them in money. They are wholly free from the characteristic
vice of the towns."

" Oh, by the powers. Father, they want to be in a regiment ;
a little military law would aid them ; but they have at least the
satisfaction of being free from the patronage of a rascally
government, from which I draw a paltry pay quarterly."

" No doubt they purpose to remain so. Although neglected
now, many a family among them has suffered deeply by the
ruthless demands of the state, which, if applied to in their
affliction, is tardy in affording assistance. You know not how
many widows and orphans are there whom the pressgang has
rendered such. Finer sailors were nowhere to be found. But
they were not enslaved easily; and in the contest for liberty

196 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

many a life has been lost. Although these people would resist
to the uttermost, even to blood, the impost of a tax, or the
subjugation to municipal authority, they are open to all the
feeling of gratitude which kindness can inspire. What is it
you want ? "*'

I explained that we had determined to try the sea-fishing
of the bay ; to visit Arran and Connemara ; and for that
purpose our intention was to fit up a good boat, such as the
fishermen used, with some additional comforts.

" It can immediately be obtained," said the prior ; " I will
write to the mayor — not of Galway, but of the Claddagh."

The note was soon dispatched, and as soon answered by
the presence of the mayor himself. He was an elderly man,
of the roughest exterior; the tanned complexion bespoke a
long life of exposure to the roughest breezes; but there was
an intellectual boldness that might, under other circumstances,
have raised him to eminence among a community more powerful
than the Claddagh fishermen. He bowed as he entered the
room, and his countenance brightened at the prior's presence.

" What can the Claddagh do for your reverence's honour ? "
said the sturdy official.

"Not much, Michael. My friends, here, are anxious to
have one of the fishing-boats that happens to be unemployed,
and a good hand to attend them in their excursions. I am
told it is difficult to find a boat."

" Difficult ! Sure is it your reverence that talks of difficulty
in getting a boat ? the whole fleet is ready."

"It is not for myself, Michael, but for these friends I
want it."

" It's enough, your reverence ; when shall it be ready ? "

" To-mon'ow."

"Your reverence would have two hands any way to the
boat. The sprats are in the bay, and there will be glorious
sport to-morrow with the white fish."

" Take a glass of whiskey, Michael."

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 197

" Oh, long life and blessings to your reverence ! "

He was impatient to be gone, bowed with profound respect
to the prior, and retired.

A short time only had elapsed before we were literally beset
with applicants for the honour of attending us. A selection
had been made, and several of the best hands, anxiously hoping
to become the choice of the prior, had been permitted to
present themselves. The two first were at once appointed to
the office; and, though full intimation was given that the
choice had been made, nothing could repress the anxiety of the
poor fellows to secure the happiness of obliging their kind
pastor.

"You must offer these lads no money for their services,*"
said the prior; "they will really feel aggrieved if they have
not the opportunity of serving you without being suspected
of any mercenary views. While in your service I know you
will treat them well ; but give no wages. I will contrive that
you shall not be without the means of rewarding them, but
it must be done with delicacy, and through the medium of
their families."

" By my soul, they are noble fellows," said the major. " Why
the devil was not I a priest? I shouldn''t then have been
paid by a rascally government.""

"There would certainly be no chance of that," said the
prior, smiling ; " we are not tlie paid of any government ; but
our usefulness, I trust, is not the less on that account."

I suggested that it was probable the strong prejudices of
the English would one day yield to the irrefragable proofs of
the importance of sustaining the influence of religion amongst
a people whose education and improvement were so much the
apparent objects of parliamentary solicitude, and that an
adequate remuneration would be ultimately awarded to the
services of the priesthood.

" Remuneration ! " said the prior, while a blush of excite-
ment mounted to his cheeks. " I trust I shall never be one of

198 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

the body that could be induced to accept it. Nothing can
be more untrue than the suspicion that, as a body, the Irish
priesthood aim at any state assistance. We war not with
the tithes ; if they were collected from the right sources, they
would become nothing more than burdens upon the tenure of
the land ; we would scorn to accept any part of them, if offered.
Our influence and our usefulness might date their downfall
from the moment the Catholic priests condescended to be
sustained at the expense of a Protestant government.^"'

"Condescend!^"* said the major; "faith, and we must all
condescend ; and whenever I draw my quarterly — this is
quartering upon the inimy, says I.''''

"The priests,'"* said I, "have no enemies to quarter on,
but those who have not known them.''

" And,"" said the prior, while he took my hand in token of
a grateful cordiality, " it is not from strangers we would derive
the reward of our labours ; we are content to receive it, humble
though it be, from those who know us."*""

Our evening was spent as an angler''s should be. The
subjects discussed were indeed various, but none were passed
by the prior. We learned the process of education adopted
in Rome for those intended for the priesthood ; the discipline
is severe : seven years of absolute confinement within the walls
of a monastery ; the utmost labour exacted, each hour bringing
its appointed task ; while the personal comforts awarded to
the novitiate are of the most meagre order. The range of
the studies, however, is extensive, comprehending not only the
learning of the ancients, but the controversial productions of
the fathers, whose voluminous tomes would alarm an English
collegian. Nor is modern literature neglected ; the priests are
generally excellent linguists ; their manners subdued and
amiable, affected, doubtless, by the severity of their education ;
but the reward attendant upon the sacrifice of all the worldly
happiness of their youth is, when viewed in reference to other
professions, of a very inadequate amount ; there must be.

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 199

therefore, other motives than the selfish ones too liberally
ascribed to them.

Having taken om- leave of the Father, the major produced his
basket ; it contained a supply of every sort of tackle calculated
for deep-sea fishing, an art very little understood, as the mere
pot-fishers of the coast pursue it in the cheapest and, therefore,
the coarsest manner. The science of sea-fishing has indeed been
wholly neglected where nets are not available ; but it is a
science that will repay the trouble of acquirement.

The ordinary coarseness of the tackle used by the seamen
is very ill adapted for the better sort of fish, such as turbot,
ling, and cod. The hake, indeed, is a very voracious creature,
and partakes of the qualities of the dogfish, although the
former, properly dressed, forms by no means a contemptible
dish. Galway Bay presents, however, sport of every kind, and,
on the approach of the herrings, which is indicated by the
arrival of immense shoals of cod, ling, and halibut, there is,
perhaps, no variety of the northern tribes, some of whose
fraternity do not appear on the coast.

Preparing, therefore, for impending business, we selected
the finest tackle. Our mackerel hook-lines were composed of
good twisted gut, instead of the heavy hemp lines of the
Galway fishermen, and our whiting crosses were made of the
same material, vice the common tarred string. To each of our
long line hooks, which were an inch and a half in the diameter,
was affixed a swivel to preserve the tackle against congers ;
villains who abound on the coast, and whose dishonesty is so
intense that on the discovery of any fish fast hooked, no matter
of how large an order, they never hesitate to convert it into
an extempore meal, politely, however, leaving the head to
communicate the intelligence when the line is drawn. If,
however, by any accident, he should also take a fancy to the
head, or should himself be induced to attack the original bait,
and find no accommodation for his contortions, in the way of
a swivel, it will not occupy him long to destroy a whole line.

200 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

Although this difficulty may be guarded against by the use
of the swivel, there is no such thing known among the Galway
fishermen.

Our long line prepared, and hand lines duly stretched, we
appointed an early hour in the morning for our essay, determined
to visit Arran in the evening. Full of anticipation, we separated
for the evening, the major having drained the whiskey bottle
to the dregs, declaring that there was nothing in the Galway
Bay, or on the coast of Connemara, that could come near the
ridi7ig a salmon ashore.

CHAPTER XVII

Dress of a Sportsman — Embarkation — Wild -Fowl — Appearance of a
Grampus — A Haul — The Conger and Dog-fish — The Herring —
'^ Heads, heads, nothing but heads!" — Accident to the Major — A
Splendid Halibut — A Sea-Dinner — Islands of Arran — Costume of the
Arran Peasantry — Cordial Reception — A Dance — A Beauty — Amorous
Propensity of the Major — Smuggling — Coast of Connemara — Magni-
ficent Scenery — Return to Galway.

The morning was glorious ; the grey tinge, which covered the
mountains and amalgamated with the cool and unbroken clouds,
gave token of a goodly day.

The major's voice was my alarum. " Hallo ; is it yourself
that keeps the fleet waiting? — Daylight, and a fisherman
asleep '' — and thump went his heavy fist at the slight panel-
ling of my chamber-door.

There was no time lost. TTie canvas dress was soon shipped ;
and, on opening the door, I could not refrain from immoderate
laughter. There stood the major ; a pair of coarse well-tarred
trousers ensconcing his nether man, and a rough pilot jacket
over all ; a tarred straw hat, lined with green silk, while the
wrists betrayed linen of the most delicate texture and hue. It
is odd, but no disguise of dress removes a certain air of refine-
ment— it is inseparable from the possessor. It was impossible
not to see that the major was a fisherman in masquerade only.

Owen stood behind, loaded with baskets, from some of which
might be seen to peep certain corks, indicative of an attention
to the possible privations of a sea- voyage. All was hilarity;
the freshness of the morning air, the anticipation of success,

202

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

amid scenes of novelty, and, above all, the merry companionship
I had secured, conspired to make such opening days little gems
of remembrance.

The guns had not been forgotten, and the major, a second
Robinson Crusoe, had slung them behind his back, forming
altogether a most picturesque figure, while the gravity with

Leaving the Claddagh.

which he sustained the metamorphosis did not constitute the
least amusing part of the scene.

We were soon at the Claddagh : here a surprise awaited us ;
a huzza from a long lane, formed by double rows of fishermen,
at once evinced the cordiality with which we were to be received;
our two visitors of the preceding evening quickly unloaded
Owen and the major, and conducted us to our boat, which,
though of the ordinary kind, that is, about twenty-five tons,

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 208

half-decked and sloop-rigged, had been thoroughly cleansed and
ornamented by all the means the poor fellows possessed. On
our embarking, the admiral of the fleet, who is also the mayor
of the Claddagh, paid us his respects, and wished us good
sport.

The major said not a word, but seizing one of the bottles,
and breaking, by a dexterous blow, the neck, without losing any
of the contents, proceeded to hand round the whiskey in an
ecstasy of delight. As he shook hands with the mayor, there
was another shout of the fishermen ; the hawser was loosened,
and, in a few minutes, we were gently gliding with the tide out
of the harbour of Galway.

The rising sun illumined the bay ; the bold and rocky coast
of Clare now opened, till the broad Atlantic, obstructed only
by the shining spot called Arran, presented a gorgeous picture.
The surface of the sea, for miles, was spotted by the white sails
of the returning fishermen, or those putting out in search of
prey. The fresh ocean breeze soon caught our sails, and we
formed one of the group which completed the morning picture.

The scream of wild birds of every kind, congregated on one
spot, put every sail in requisition ; and in an instant might be
seen a fleet of five hundred vessels, with all canvas spread,
dashing forward, as in a race ; we were not behind, but, to our
gratification, discovered that the vessel selected for our accom-
modation was one of the fastest sailers of the fleet. Our two
boatmen were in the bows, each armed with a long pole, at the
extremity of which was a deep bag -net, for the purpose of
scooping up the sprats, which, at this season of the year, con-
stituted the only bait.

The major and myself, each with a double-barrel in readi-
ness, were silently watching the approach towards the mass of
birds. It was a perfect trial of the fleet. The breeze was fresh,
and the shouts of the different boats, as they passed through
the shoal of herrings, and scooped up a basket of them, did not
disturb the wild -fowl, which seemed perfectly aware of the

204 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

purpose of the visit, dashing a yard or two under the water, and
again appearing on the surface at the stern of the boat.

A space of a hundred yards was dense with ducks, teal,
widgeon, gannets, gulls, and cormorants. Within twenty yards
of the spot our four barrels were discharged ; all in an instant
disappeared for a few seconds ; first one quietly rose and rolled
on his back ; another, another, and another, were scooped up by
the nets, till we steered into the midst of the mass of fish, so
thickly crowded together as to give the appearance of discoloured
water. At that moment two other boats dashed through, and,
as we were all closing, the appearance of a third party put a
sudden stop to our proceedings ; up went the helm of every
boat, and blanched became the cheek of every boatman ; the
shout of hilarity was in a moment changed to the silence of
utter terror. The monstrous grampus had arisen in the very
midst of the shoal, and, within thi'ee yards of the boats, opened
his frightful jaws, entombing hogsheads of the small fry at
one gulp.

The view I had of the monster was distinct ; the head was
completely out of the water as he opened his expansive jaws,
which were lined with sharp teeth, in several rows, of about an
inch long. On sinking, he flourished his tail on the surface;
and this, it seems, was the great object of danger.

On our escape, it will be supposed, inquiry was soon made.
The grampus is a continual visitor of the bay, on the approach
of the herring season, and is regarded by the fishermen as the
most deadly of all foes. Boats have frequently been sunk by
one dash of his tail ; and it was not without reason that the
sailors expressed so much terror at his proximity to our little
bark. The major was for setting up means of capturing him, a
sport in which I begged not to be associated ; but as my dissent
became positive, the major's courage increased, till, having seized
the gun, he fired at the spot, in the overboiling of his valour,
where the monster had disappeared. This seemed to appease
the major's wrath, and, threatening a future attack on this

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 205

monarch of the bay, he betook himself to preparation for the
deep-sea line, which was now ready for the bait we had taken.

Upon sounding, we found twenty-five fathoms a good depth
for the larger sort of fish ; and having prepared our hooks, upon
each of which was a sprat, and on some two, we proceeded to
sink the long line, attached to a buoy.

This done, and the bearings taken, we stood over towards
the Clare shore, where we found the water deeper, and in thirty
fathoms cast anchor.

We now let out the hand -lines, each person having the
management of two. These we continued to sink and draw,
but not long, as we soon found a dash at one : then commenced
the real labour of fishing. Thirty fathoms of line, with a cod
of twenty pounds weight at the end of it, was not a light
amusement ; but we got through it manfully. No sooner had
we unhooked the fish, re-baited and set off the line, than the
other was ready. This continued for an hour, till one of our
new friends, the boatmen, cried out that it was time to up
anchor.

" Oh, the divils are here, your honour ! Up anchor, or our
tackle^s done."

He was right; we were all busily engaged. The major
declared he had nothing less than the grampus at the end of his
line, and we were all in glorious expectation of a simultaneous
haul. Up they came, indeed, writhing in all directions ; running
foul of one another, darting across each other^s lines ; congers
and dog-fish all — and of so terrific a size, that nothing but the
sledge-hammer made any impression on their skulls, or could
reduce them to any reasonable conduct. The scene was
ridiculous in the extreme : each bellowing ineffectually for the
assistance of his neighbour.

In the melee ^ however, it was discovered that the major's
was really a ling, a fish of great value on this coast, and
apparently of forty or fifty pounds weight. Every man, there-
fore, abandoned his own difficulties to remove those of the major :

206 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

he was landed — our estimate was not incorrect as to his weight.
One conger was also landed of enormous size, but the rest were
sent adrift, as we thought it better to cut the hook than en-
danger the safety of the boat's bottom by their violence.

The congers, I know not why, are never used by the Irish
for any purpose. There can be no doubt that they form, well
cooked, excellent food. In Jersey and Guernsey they constitute
the staple of the inhabitants. Here, however, they are held in
detestation, as is also the dog-fish, which, at Boulogne, and at
the other fishing ports of France, one may see daily exposed for
sale, at no very cheap rate.

The intimation our last haul had given of the invasion of
our quarters by the congers and dog-fish soon put us again
under sail. The produce of our long line now became the
object of our solicitude. In the present disturbed state of the
bay it was impossible to conjecture what would be captured, as
it was obvious that every part of the bottom was covered with
fish of some order.

What the herring eats no one knows. There are not want-
ing fishermen who record the catching of these spiritual creatures
by the exhibition of a bright hook, without bait; but it never
fell within my observation that they were in any way addicted
to the gastronomic vices.

However involved the means by which they are sustained
may be, it is certain that the purpose of their existence is no
matter of doubt. They form the chief food of all other sea-fish ;
they are an unlucky set, go where they will ; from the whiting
to the whale they are diligently followed, and if the enemies of
their own element are not sufficient, they have an ample assist-
ance in the population of every country they are unhappy
enough to visit. He who never before fished, but who hath
spent the year in attendance on his flocks, is called on in the
herring time. Common cause is made to prosecute the war
against the unoffending visitors, who appear to migrate from
one shore to another, for the sole purpose of affording a general

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 207

chance to all. But the herring is a capital fellow, and must not
be quarrelled with, forming, as he does, the only security against
utter famine among the poorest, and the most delicious dish
possible for the opulent.

Whenever the herring can be obtained, let no sea fisherman
attempt any other bait. The flavour of the herring is omni-
potent among the villainous community which inhabiteth the
deep — I say a villainous community, because in it is no respect
of kindred or of genitorship. The father, remorseless, devoureth
the son; and the mother her own spawn, the moment it has
become enlivened. I have no pity in consigning such ruthless
savages to the bottom of the boat, especially when in doing so
a noble revenge presents itself in devoting them to the mosaic
equity of mastication.

The breeze was still fresh, and enabled us to come up with
the buoy without difficulty. It was the first draught in the
Galway Bay, celebrated throughout Ireland as the beau ideal of
piscatorial achievement. The major drew the buoy, it was
heavy, and he swore there must at least be a ton weight of fish
on the lines. Our two boatmen coiled the line as it was drawn
in silent doubt. At length the first hook appeared.

" A head ! '*' cries the major.

" A head ! '' cried the boatmen ; " the divils are here again."
It was the head of a fine cod.

" Fifty pounds, if an ounce ! " says the major.

" A good cod ! " said the fisherman.

" A head!" exclaimed the major, as the second hook appeared.

The boatmen crossed themselves, and wished the bay wasn't
spoiled by the carrion.

"Oh, by the powers," cried the major, "your prayers are
heard. Cross again, ye spalpeens; here's a flat gentleman, at
any rate."

The boatmen crossed themselves.

" Cross again," says the major, " as if it was pay-day, when
every man must make his cross."

208 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

"Aturbot;'

It was one of the largest order ; he had not, however, been
unassailed ; the marks of teeth in his side were visible.

" Cod ! " cried the major.

A cod was landed.

Then followed a long list of empty hooks, or rather strings
from whence the hooks had been broken.

" Cross again, ye spalpeens ! " cried the draughtsman. The
rite was performed, and a fine ling made his appearance.
" Heads, heads, nothing but heads.""

" Halloo,"" said the major. " We are done ! the divil himself
is in the line "" ; all rushed to his assistance — it was stationary —
no power could move it. " On a rock, by St. Pathrick ! "" as he
threw down his hat, and stamped in a violent fury on the crown.
" All lost ! — we are on a rock.""

" Will your honour allow us to try,"" said the boatmen.

They took the line, and, having jagged for some minutes,
the obstruction gave way.

"A fish— a fish.""

"What divil of a fish,"" cried the major, "couldn"t I move !
hold on, hold on."'

All hands now seized the line. The boatmen implored us
to stand clear, for, should the prey once get his head downwards,
the danger to all was great, from the numerous hooks which the
line would run out, and which ought to be clear. They were
right. The fish gave a sudden dash downwards, and, in an
instant, all the line which had been previously hauled in and
coiled in a basket was thrown overboard.

Themajor stared in astonishment. "What! let the monster
go, out of pure fear ? Faith, it"s meself that would have held
on any way — haul in again.""

The process was soon recommenced, and as quickly abandoned.

"Hould on, ye spalpeens,"" screamed the major; "hould on,
for the love of the Trinity ! ""

We all ran to his assistance — it was too late; one of the

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 209

hooks had caught his hand, and, although what by the sailors
is termed a round turn had been taken, it was impossible to
prevent the accident.

The line was now seized by all.

" Oh ! for the love of St. Pathrick, hould on the fish ; here,
help my hand ! ''

Without using the least ceremony, and with none of the
surgeon's skill, I thrust back the hook, which had penetrated
the major's hand. It was but one effort, a strong one, indeed,
and he was free.

"Haul in," cried the major, "I have a hand still'" — I had
bound the lacerated one with my handkerchief — " haul in, and
let every spalpeen that has a hand to spare cross himself."

There was, however, no crossing now, the tackle was too
good to yield, and we soon found on the surface of the water a
splendid halibut. The size is unknown in England, but will be
imagined when I say that it weighed upwards of one hundred
and twelve pounds — a magnificent specimen of the tribe, not
valuable, but still convertible to the purposes of sustenance.
We resolved, therefore, not to lose him. The boat-hook was in
requisition; blows with the oars, large hooks stuck into the
body and the tail, all contributed to reduce to subjection the
overgrown tyrant of our line.

He was secured, safely slung at the stern (for we did not
dare to introduce him to the boat), the rest of the line was hauled
in, and, the maj or's hand dressed secundum artem, that is, bathed
in salt water and properly bound, the fore-sheet was hauled to
leeward, and we directed the boat's head to the beautiful speck
on the ocean, which was our destination.

This was the signal for all culinary preparations. The fire
was resuscitated, the potatoes put on — a bushel, at least — the
finest cod, whiting, and smaller fish selected, split, and washed
in the sea, ready for cooking.

The dinner was splendid. It is absurd to say that a man
makes only a gastronomic journey who records his eating. So

210 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

indissolubly is this necessary process bound up with our happi-
ness, that I cannot think him a fallacious philosopher who sets
forth the necessity of strictly providing for that which constitutes
the chief act of every day, and, therefore, the prime purpose of
our lives — dining. I have no respect for a man who dines ill.
It is a proof of bad taste, and ought to be resented by his
stomach, the source of all our enjoyments. Commend not me
to the philosopher who eats not, or who eats in had taste : he is
ungrateful to the powers of Nature, and unjust to the energies
of his constitution ; he is ever cynical, surly, severe, and segre-
gative ; but to him commend me, and to him alone, who, in
glowing gratitude, pays that respect to his organs of resuscitation
which is due to the happiness they engender, and to the sound
doctrine they inculcate.

No doctrine is sound which hath not its basis in a good dinner.
The kind sympathies of our nature then bm'st forth, the best
acts of our lives are attributable to its influence. It is poverty,
i.e. the absence of a good dinner, which teaches misanthropy ; it
is a false philosophy which exists not among the children of
plenty. A lean, squinting abortion may be sometimes seen,
contorting his detestable visage into an expression of general
hatred of the convivialities of man — he is an impostor. Poverty
and special pleading have destroyed the powers of his stomach,
and he no longer feels that the remedy is timely — that man has
no digestion. Put him on the Galway bay, let him see the
happiness of a sea-dinner, and, though he may be an adept in
other matters, he will confess that he is none of the real happi-
ness of man, or of the purposes for which a good digestion was
accorded to beings of intellect.

Retournons a nos moutons, and our moutons, on this occasion,
consisted of broiled sea-fowl, split, and washed in the salt water,
broiled haddock, whiting, and cod, with a splendid corollary of
potatoes, cooked in water from the Atlantic. Those who have
never partaken of the " fruit ''' thus prepared, know little of the
real gout which may be imparted to it. The occasional inter-

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 211

ruptions, which stopped the course of the feast, arose from the
frequent crossing of gannet, geese, and gulls ; scarcely had one
a fair chance ; the moment all appeared arranged for the due
exercise of the knife and fork, they were changed for the double-
barrel.

Arran now began to assume a specific form. The sandy
shores shone brightly in the sun, and we could distinguish the
little pier, which the poor inhabitants have constructed, covered
with moving dots ; they constituted the chief of the inhabitants
of this strange spot. As we still neared the landing-place, we
could distinguish shouts, and waving of handkerchiefs, or rags
so estimated ; but we were all at loss to conjecture the cause
of such joyous demonstrations. Our boatmen smiled, but at
length confessed that they were in honour of our arrival ; some
of the fishing-boats had already apprised them of our approach,
and the people of the island had all assembled to bid us welcome.

Having moored our bark, we were hailed on landing by
about a hundred men, women, and children, the whole of the
inhabitants the island could boast ; and, certainly, so strange a
concourse had never been beheld forming a part of a community
which considers itself civilised.

It has been ridiculously said that the only true fashion of
the Irish peasantry is a blanket, two burnt holes for the arms,
and a wooden skewer for the waist. Such a costume would be
really luxurious. Here the women were covered from the waist
only — some rag thrown over their shoulders; while the men,
with old pieces of sack or sail-cloth, carelessly tied round the
middle, and children literally naked, altogether formed so strange
a group that it would, in persons less accustomed to such a sight,
have occasioned some alarm lest they had arrived indeed among
savages.

There was, nevertheless, no lack of hilarity; joyousness and
the piper go hand in hand ; nor was the procession towards the
huts impeded but by the want of discretion in the major, which
occasioned a general huzza. A fair girl, whose hair was hanging

212 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

over her naked bosom, just covering a countenance of extra-
ordinary beauty — her large blue eyes, constantly fixed on us as
in astonishment — at length attracted the major''s observation.
Whether the sea-air or the whiskey had aroused the elderly
militant, I know not ; but he burst forth into rapturous exclama-
tions, caught the unconscious beauty in his arms, and inflicted
divers kisses before the poor girl was at all aware of his intention.

"That's for luck !" says the major, as the girl regained her
liberty.

" Huzza ! '' cried the crowd ; " Kate's the gentleman's partner."

There was no more to be said : the piper struck up, each
roughly seized his particular favourite, and, in one minute, the
whole island population, shoeless, were jigging on the sandy
shore. The major availed himself of the happy incident — soon
wooed his former favourite ; while I, more modest, am ashamed
to confess that a lady offered herself to my notice as a partner.

How long this kind of welcome would have lasted I know
not ; but the major exhibited symptoms of breaking down, and
began to puff so audibly that I thought it a good opportunity
to desist, and save the major's reputation. He took the hint,
and we quietly proceeded to the huts.

The largest was selected. The whiskey which the major had
brought was put under the command of Owen, who, as master
of the ceremonies, had acquired a high character already among
the islanders.

We now strolled round this interesting spot, having, with
great difficulty, shaken off our new acquaintances for a time,
under a promise of joining the evening dance.

There can be little doubt but that these islands once formed
a long neck of land at the mouth of the bay of Galway, and
stretching to the coast of Clare. The Atlantic at last burst
through, and the remnants of the highest lands may be now
viewed as the three islands of AiTan. The remains of wood,
which are still to be seen, favour this notion. The ruins of a
very extensive monastery may be still viewed, and the burial-

Mm:mm

'km

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 213

ground, which is attached to them, furnishes records of a once
extensive population. The writer of the hfe of Kierian sets
forth, in reference to Arran : " in qua insula multitudo virorum
sanctorum manet et innumerabiles sancti, omnibus incogniti nisi
soli Deo omnipotenti ibi jacent."'''

From the burial-ground is a splendid view of the Atlantic
on one side, and the whole coast of Connemara on the other.
The lofty Twelve Pins seemed to bury themselves in the heavens.

The few persons who now inhabit the island seldom visit
any other land, and many of the women have never left their
native sward — bounded, indeed, in their notions of the world,
which to them this little tract encloses, their manners were
simple as their lives ; and, but for the occasional visits of the
coast-guard, they have learned nothing of the restrictions of
law. They are, it is said, very naughty in sometimes assisting
two or three poor fellows, drenched by a gale of wind, in burying
certain packages ; nay, I believe some of the Arran men have
been known to pollute their pipes with the very contents of
those packages, for which no duty had been paid. A few of
them had been sent to Galway prison for a year, convicted of
this appalling crime.

In the evening, the assembly had greatly increased in
numbers ; the fishermen had arrived, and soon joined the dance,
which now had attracted the whole population. The major's
spirits never flagged, and Owen had become a perfect Lothario,
and seemed to have for a time shaken off the sad reminiscences
which had so strongly marked his thin countenance. It was
indeed a jubilee for the islanders, with the joyousness of which
they were unwilling to part; and, long after I and the major
had retired to the pallets which had been prepared for us, the
dance-shout still continued to ring in our ears.

Having divided the whole of our fish among the aged and
helpless of the island, and left some little gratuities among the
rest, we set sail for Galway, determined to shoot our way along
the coast. The weather was still fine, so that we could direct

214 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

our course as we chose. Having made, therefore, for the high
coast of Connemara, we crept along the shore, so that the vast
projections concealed our little bark from observation till we
were in the midst of the numerous flocks of wild -fowl which
bred there. We were very successful, though it is an amuse-
ment of danger, for, should the voyager have the ill-luck to be
caught on this shore by a westerly from the Atlantic, his chance
of ever landing again, otherwise than by the gentle assistance of
the waves, would be little.

Magnificent, indeed, is the scenery of the Connemara coast.
Immense masses, of greater height than any part of the shores
of Ireland, still present their dark fronts to the wide ocean's
roar. The unbroken Atlantic rolls its immense mountains
against these bulwarks of nature, which, still unscathed, sustain
the shock. The deep and thunder-like echoes add to the solemn
grandeur with which the whole scene is invested.

The prior was awaiting our arrival, and we had again to go
through the gratulations of the Claddagh men. The major
shared the last drop of whiskey with the high functionary, who
received his portion with a becoming dignity, and informed us
that our crew would be ready at all times, and the boat would
be considered as wholly devoted to our service. We repaid all
this with our thanks alone — the prior had forbidden that we
should do otherwise — as good Christians should, we submitted
to the Church.

An Irish Street Piper.

Facing page i\i,.

CHAPTER XVIII

Superstition of the Fishermen — Execution of Lynch for the Murder of his
Wife — General Sympathy for the Murderer — The Priest — His Dis-
closure of the Circumstances of the Murder — Villainy of R .

Although on the following day nothing could be finer than the
weather, or more calculated for fishing, on my arrival at the
Claddagh, I was astonished to find all the fishermen standing
about in clusters — not even a net spread to dry, or a needle
plied among the wives and children — their common and almost
endless occupation. There was a deep feeling of sorrow per-
vading the expression of every face, as though some common
calamity had befallen this segregated horde. Not even the
offer of gold could, I believe, have tempted any one to get under
way for the lovely island of Arran, which, as one looked towards
the broad Atlantic, seemed Hke a diamond sparkling in the sun,
and set in splendid emerald.

Having at length found my own compagnon de voyage^ I
questioned him as to the cause of this sudden idleness of the
fishermen. Owen shrugged his shoulders.

" Faith and it's all up, this day, your honour — we'll have the
lake, any way, if your honour rows up yourself against the
stream — and we may have some pike and perch, but the divil a
sea-going fish we'll take."

Disappointed by this sudden refusal, my preparations having
been of a very laborious kind, I answered pettishly, which Owen
immediately felt.

" It's true, as your honour manes to say — there's no use in it

216 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

— if the man must die, he must die — and faith it's not of their
work, anyhow — but your honour's considerate — the poor deluded
people of this place will neither wet an oar nor set up a sail to-
day— and, perhaps, it wo'd be as well for your honour's self not
to do the like — your honour knows what is a sudden squall off
the coast opposite — divil a man can tell when it will come, but
it will come, and like enough to come at the moment of murder
ashore ! — There would be a curse upon the man who should go
to sea to-day."

I could not but perceive that in the attempt to conceal the
effect of this delusion, there was also much of belief in the
reality in poor Owen. His devotion to my service, however,
prevented his at once declining to accompany me on the lake.

At this moment two of the sturdy sea-fishermen came up.
The eldest, as if he had been acquainted with the subject under
our consideration, "begged his honour's pardon — he might be
too bold, but his honour would do a great service to the men if
he wouldn't any way go to sea to-day — perhaps his honour
would spake to the priest."

On this day the execution of a Lynch was to take place in
front of the gaol — solemnly and sacredly was such a day to be
held, as the parting spirit of the dying man should pass amid
the S3rmpathy of all.

Unlike the sight-seers of om- more enlightened population,
who regard the violent death of a fellow-creature as an occasion
worthy of a holiday, that their unfeeling and heartless curiosity
may be gratified — nothing here was observable but a solemn
grief that did honour even to the prejudices and superstition of
the people.

The crime of the condemned man was that of murder —
murder, too, at which the best feelings recoil with extremest
horror — murder, the most determined and ferocious, of his own
wife — her whom it was his duty to protect and sustain.

I was, indeed, astonished at the general interest the fate of
such a malefactor seemed to have excited, and expressed my

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 217

surprise to Owen, after having assured him that it was by no
means my intention to violate the feehngs of the fishermen by
persisting in going to sea that day.

" 'Tis true, 'tis a bad murther, your honour, and I suppose
the law must have it murther ; but, if I was judge, I wouldn't
harm a hair of his head — faith, but it's murther — he's guilty,
no doubt, of murther; and it's myself, and everybody else,
will be sorry to see him kilt after all."

I inquired the reasons Owen had to become the apologist
of so hateful a criminal ; he referred me to the priest, who had
attended him all night — who, regardless of rest or food, had
preferred the damp and cold cell of the doomed wretch to all
the comforts his convent afforded.

On reaching the gaol I beheld a concourse of persons,
evidently comprehending the population of many miles round,
and exceeding, in number, twelve or fifteen thousand. All
was perfect silence. There was a dignity under even the rags of
this multitude which commanded and received respect. With
some difficulty I made my way to the gaol-door, and sent in

my card to the Rev. Mr. I was admitted to the outer

room, leading to the gallows, which was before the gaol-door ;
there stood the condemned man ; his lip curled ; his eye still
bright in dogged resolution; he leaned carelessly against the
wall, and seemed to be little excited by the horror of his
approaching fate. The kind sympathy of the priest — the
sympathy which every word carried with it — seemed to give
an unnatural vigour to the nerves of his auditor ; he was steady,
attentive, determined, yet was he within a few minutes of death
in its most frightful form.

I was not permitted to hear the last words whispered into
his ear by the father; but they excited a calm smile in the
features of the condemned, who let fall his head upon the
bosom of the priest in token of the strongest affection. I
wondered at the cool deliberation of th^t man — while I, and
all around me, felt that some terrible and unnatural shock was

218 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

impending — while the horror of contemplating so sudden a
death in another unnerved us ; with a firm and unflinching
step he mounted the stairs leading to the fatal window.

"Father, you ^vill not forget me in your prayers; — you
know all.'"*

As he spoke this, he stood upon the platform. To measure
the dense mass of heads which surrounded it would be im-
possible; yet was there the most awful silence; the stillness
of night alone could equal that dreadful pause; it was but
for a moment — a crash — and then a simultaneous groan among
the people, so dreadful in its tone, so terrible in import, that
I needed not to lift my eyes to the spot to be convinced that
he, whose words still rang in my ears, had passed into eternity !

I met my friend, the priest, as he came forth from his
long and painful duty; he was pale and fagged, and would
hardly reply to my questions concerning the effect of so
immense a concourse of persons. On his way homeward, how-
ever, he assured me they would separate peaceably — that a
word from any of the Fathers would disperse them. I could
not refrain from pressing on him the expression of my surprise
at the sympathy which seemed so generally to have been felt
in the fate of so atrocious a murderer ; at last he replied : — " I
cannot now divulge all that I know concerning that unfortunate
being ; but, in the evening, I will do so ; meanwhile be satisfied.
Murderer though he was, he is entitled to our deepest com-
miseration ; he has been more sinned against than sinning.""

" Your anxiety to know the facts of the murder shall now
be gratified,"*"* said my reverend friend, as he seated himself by
my turf fire; "and though it is not often we disclose what
is under the strictest confidence revealed to us, yet the circum-
stances of this case are so extraordinary that justice demands
the disclosure. Nor need you hesitate to attach to the tale
entire credence. So perfect was the conviction on the mind
of the malefactor, that he had, by fully revealing every fact
relating to the horrible act, as much as remained in his power,

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 219

atoned to his Maker for its atrocity ; so entire is the beUef
among our followers, that confession is an indispensable
ingredient in the means of salvation, that, trembling as he was
on the grave, I am certain he has not in the minutest point
deceived me. It is under circumstances alone of this awful
character that we may penetrate into the real feelings of the
heart, when all hope in this world is gone, and disguise becomes
a crime : a crime too, that would shut out futurity. It is
then we find the real motives, and sometimes, alas ! the real
facts of a case, in judging of which mankind have greatly
erred.

" Lynch, who this day expiated his crime on the scaffold,
was the son of a poor cottier, and was born and brought up
amidst the mountains which divide this country from Connemara.
He was not possessed of more than very ordinary talents, but
was inoffensive in his manners, and affectionate in the highest
degree towards those who reared him.

" The poverty of the district in which he was bred is, perhaps,
hardly conceivable by you who have not yet passed through
the drear and neglected tract, which has depended wholly
upon the attentions of the priesthood, unaided by the ex-
patriated and dissolute lords of the soil, even for the common
information that its inhabitants are of the human order. Any
employment to be obtained, therefore, among those whose
means promise comfort, is, among this destitute class of beings,
looked on as a provision of fortune : and it was with the
utmost joy that this poor lad, whose age this day does not
exceed nineteen, accepted an offer of engagement as working-
gardener on the estate of R , a resident magistrate, and

agent for some absent proprietors.

" R is a person of great influence among the extensive

community around him — to him the ragged and half-starved
cottier pays his hardly-hoarded rent — to him it is he looks
for compassion and forbearance, under inability and misfortune ;
and when I tell you that he is the only resident in the district

220 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

of several miles, above the rank of a turf tenant, you will easily
believe that his will is law.

" I Avill not say more of his character than you may gather
from the circumstances. At the time to which I refer, he was
living not very respectably with one of his own servants — a
young female, who had exhibited symptoms calculated to disclose
to the world the nature of the connection which had existed
between them. A circumstance of this kind could not be
concealed ; and R was, at that moment, under an engage-
ment of marriage with a lady of considerable fortune — a matter
of great import to him, who, notwithstanding his seclusion,
was deeply involved in debt.

" After Lynch had been some days in his new employment,
the di'eadful train of occurrences which have closed by this
day's awful execution commenced. In the evening, on returning
from his work, he repaired to the small study of his master to
report his labours, and to take orders for the next day. On
entering the room, he there found the girl to whom I have
alluded — the door was shut and locked. Screams of murder
echoed through the hall.

" R , attended by his bailiff, who was constable of the

district, rushed downstairs from an upper room, burst open
the door, and there beheld the woman, with her hair dishevelled
— her clothes torn and disordered — struggling with Lynch as
in deadly contest : they were instantly separated ; the girl fell
screaming to the ground, while Lynch, freed from his antagonist,
stood apparently in a state of stupefaction.

"Explanations were soon made by the recovering female,
that Lynch had come unexpectedly into the room — had locked
the door, and had proceeded to accomplish too fully a diabolical
purpose. Her solemn assertions of the completion of the
crime by the still amazed and silent Lynch were vehement and
repeated. By the orders of her master she was removed to bed.
Lynch was immediately taken into custody by the constable,
who proceeded to bind his legs and hands. The lad protested,

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 221

as soon as he could be made to comprehend the nature of the
charge, against its truth — his denial was regarded not, or was
overborne by the denunciations of his master, who threatened
death to the accused. An interview, a short time after, took
place between the girl, the constable, and magistrate : before
them she made a statement on oath, that the crime of Lynch
had been completed.

" On communicating this statement to the accused, all the
horrors of a legal execution were painted ; he was made aware of
the certainty of his conviction on such evidence, and the necessity
the master was under of forthwith consigning him to a gaol to
take his trial, was fully set forth. Overcome by terror, the
apparently kind suggestion that there was still a mode of saving
his forfeit life was caught at eagerly by the accused — it was the
usual amends — the girl might be persuaded to marry him.
After suffering hours of agony, between love of life and strong
disinclination to the means of preserving it, the priest was
sent for, the sudden license procured, and Lynch became a
husband.

" During the ceremony he was passive and cool, uttered no
word beyond the necessary responses, nor betrayed any feelings
either of satisfaction or dislike. On the completion of the form,

R was the first to speak. He generously offered to provide

a supper for the bride and bridegroom, and forthwith ordered
his people to be sent for to mix in the festivities. He encouraged
the bridegroom to be gay, to shake off the impression of his recent
troubles, and to show the happiness he ought to feel when his
master declared his intention of providing for the young couple.

" To all this Lynch answered not a word ; but, on the return
of the bailiff, who was loaded with viands for the evening's cheer,
he stood boldly up, and demanded to know if he were relieved
from all charge, and if he were now free. Both master and man
assured him he was so, whereupon he thrust his wife from his
side, darted out of the room, and disappeared.

" It was some weeks after this circumstance that R was

222 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

married, previously to which event the widowed wife of Lynch
had returned to her mother''s cottage. On receiving, however,
some money from her late master, she set off in search of her
fugitive husband.

" The difficulty a stranger finds in obtaining even the common
necessaries of life by employment in a part of the country in
which he is unknown, perhaps would hardly be conceived by the
English, where poor-laws always present relief to the destitute
stranger. In these wild, though over-populated countries, the
appearance of a stranger begets jealousy and distrust; the
observation is common to them, that as they have too little
employment for themselves, they need not strangers. Lynch
had, however, been fortunate ; he had traversed the mountains
of Connemara, till he had found on the borders of Galway the
means of comfortable living. His employer had overcome the
prejudices to which I have referred ; and, approving his quiet
industry and inoffisnsive behaviour, had even promoted him to a
place of trust.

" The good fortune this situation seemed to constitute was
suddenly obscured by the appearance of his wife. She had
previously presented herself to Lynch's employer, and bore in
her arms an infant, which she declared was the first of their
marriage. She had represented her husband as one who had
been dismissed from every employment in his own country, in
consequence of his dishonesty ; that he dared never show himself
in Connemara, in consequence of the prosecutions for theft which
hung over him. She declared that he had first seduced, then
married, and abandoned her and her child.

"Much, I believe, of the attachment which exists among
families, even in this wild population, is the offspring of necessity
and destitution — the crime of deserting their wives and children
is of uncommon occurrence in this country, as it is held to be
one of the deepest iniquity. The utter dependence of the child
upon the father, where neither the poorhouse nor the hospital
exists, renders the connection more indissoluble, and the recip-

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 223

rocal dependence of the parent upon the labour of the child
repays the devotion of each.

" It will not surprise you, therefore, to hear that this state-
ment had already determined the mind of Lynches employer :
he was dismissed. Silently receiving his sentence, and without
bestowing a look on the abusive woman who had thus sought
and maligned his character, he departed.

" The jeers of the wife at his discomfiture rang in his ears as
he sullenly directed his steps over the mountains — jeers that
spoke of a revenge at his neglect, which no bosom but that of a
slighted woman could entertain. Need I repeat the accumulated
wrongs the enduring wretch suffered ? Why should I say more
than that he found rest nowhere. Employment in every place
denied — stigmatised as a thief — conscious of the deepest wrongs
— believing himself destined to perish by the calumnies of a fiend
— weary and stung with hunger — he was making his way
towards Galway, having been that day again dismissed from
employment by the appearance of his wife, in the hope of finding
some vessel that would convey him to a foreign shore.

" Unhappy chance ! he was too late ; the very path he was
treading the figure of the to-him-tormenting fiend crossed — it
was his wife — waiting his arrival with the savage vengeance of a
successful conqueror. On his approach she assailed him with
loud and insolent laughter, took her place by his side, and ceased
not a moment her threats of spending her whole life in marring
his peace wherever he should go. For some time the inflamed
mind of the wretched husband was kept in control ; for some
time he bore the exasperation of the fiend-like tongue of the
woman with fortitude ; till, at length, as struck with a sudden
thought, he turned upon her, and, ere reason could regain her
power over his maddened brain, his clasp-knife had penetrated
the heart of his wife, and her warm blood was reeking from the
ground !

" The rest is soon told ; the proofs of the act at the trial
were undoubted — not even denied by the prisoner. His fate

224 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

this day has closed the scene to him for ever. But there remains
yet one, who, buoyed with the hope that his villainy is buried
with the wretched malefactor, yet remains for the exercise of

retributive justice. It was R who instructed the wretched

girl to make the charge of violation against the unsuspecting
Lynch ; it Avas he who had promised much, if she succeeded by
that plan in gaining him as a husband, who would relieve the
real seducer from the suspicions which might have obstructed
his scheme of marriage ; it was he who had placed the girl in
the study, had sent for his bailiff to be witness of the scene, that
the terror of the threats of the law might accomplish the view
of the master !

" He has not dared to remain in the country ; of that I am
glad. I will not — dare not name him ; but I trust there is still
an honest pen that will not fail to set forth the truth, which, if
ever he should see it, will bring on him the heaviest punishment
justice can claim. I was right in saying, that the dying male-
factor, who perished on the scaffold to-day, was entitled to our
deepest commiseration — ^that he was more sinned against than
sinning."

CHAPTER XIX

Departure from Gal way — Coasting — The Coal-Fish_, or Bace — Aground
on Roundstone Flats — The Harbour — Protestant Clergyman — The
Major's Reminiscences in America — Catching a Sea-Serpent with a
Shoe.

I DID not leave Galway without sincere regret ; to a sportsman,
it presents every attraction, while the social kindness of those to
whom I had the good fortune to be introduced had contributed
highly to enhance the amusement I had enjoyed. My landlord,
indeed, expressed deep sorrow at our parting ; and I must in
justice say that I had never before met, in any country, a more
disinterested and obliging one.

But the advance of autumn warned me of approaching
term ; and pictured the necessity of movement over the unbeaten
track which the Irish map presented.

Our preparations were soon made, having resolved to coast
it round to Connemara, and then cross the mountains on foot.
For this purpose our boat was in readiness, and our compagnons
de voyage still on the alert to attend us. Transmitting, there-
fore, all om' baggage to Belfast, and putting our wardrobes in
travelling order, we sailed from Galway, our kind friend, the
prior, attending us to the water''s edge. We had determined to
shoot our way round to the Connemara coast ; and certainly
never did more abundant sport present itself. But we had long
since given up all hope of rendering the produce of our guns
available to the commissariat; the abominable toughness and

Q

226 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

fishiness of flavour which all sea-birds have forbid their use,
except after very adroit culinary preparation.

The coast, after leaving the Black Head, which is the ex-
tremity of Galway Bay, though in part traversed by us before,
presented continual objects of admiration. The picturesque is,
indeed, here concentrated, and the wildness of coast scenery
unapproached by the shores of any other country.

As the breeze was favourable, we were soon among the
cluster of rock islands which are scattered as breakwaters along
the Connemara coast : to some of them we approached with
perfect safety within twenty yards, sending our four barrels
amidst the cormorants and gannets, which stood on the points
of each rock, fluttering and drying their wings in the air,
unconscious of any danger from the boat.

While we were listlessly viewing the varying beauties of the
coast, Owen started from his seat in the stem of the boat, seized
the boat-hook, and plunged it into the sea — the effect was
instantaneous : a large fish floated in a few moments on the
surface : we could not, however, stop to take the prey on board ;
but, looking over into the wake of the boat, the major and
myself were greatly surprised at perceiving thousands of a large
kind of fish, which I immediately recognised as the coal-fish of
the Scottish lakes — bace on the Welsh shore. They are of the
salmon size, and not unlike the salmon in form, and average
about eight or ten pounds each. In bringing the boat to, for
the purpose of getting tackle ready, they immediately dis-
appeared. They had followed our course as in pursuit, and the
moment our way ceased they sank.

This did not prevent immediate preparations: our swivels
were soon ready, and the only bait at hand was a piece of
cormorant's thigh. This we soon attached to a double hook,
and bound it with white silk. The major was in a ferment of
haste, and Owen commenced snapping his fingers and dancing
the Irish fling in undisguised delight. As the sails again filled,
we watched at the stem with gi'eat care. First, one appeared

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 227

in the wake — another and another, till the vast shoal had
become as numerous as before. Out went our two swivels —
the baits were instantly seized, and our tackle as instantly
smashed.

We had forgotten that the rate at which we were going
through the water added enormous impetus to the original
strength of these strong animals, against which we had to
contend. It was curious, however, to see the very creatures
which had thus discomfited our preparations swimming close
to the boat, having the double gut visibly hanging from their
mouths, in utter disregard of the danger they had passed.
Swivels were out of the question. The common sea-line was
resorted to ; and, whether with or without bait, was a matter of
perfect indifference to these voracious animals. The bare hook
was sufficient : one after the other snapped at it under the very
stem of the boat. The amusement was, for a short time, highly
exciting. Owen had attached large salmon-flies to a line, each
of which was instantly seized, and the fish securely hooked.

While the bustle of this new mode of fly-fishing was occupy-
ing our attention, we had not perceived our approach to
Roundstone flats. Our Claddagh sailors, being themselves
fishermen, had abandoned all look-out ahead, convulsed with
delight at the drollery of our sudden captures. One shock,
however, while excitation was at the highest, recalled us to more
sober contemplation. We had run up the shoal all standing,
and had become safely moored in the sands, eight miles from
the coast, and as equally situated as possible between two ranges
of rocks. Luckily, we had run so far up the sands that our
boat was wholly motionless, and the sea between the ranges of
rocks was not high.

The two Claddagh men became eloquent in the exchange of
complimentary anathemas, each throwing the whole blame on
the other. Owen let down his rod in consternation ; while the
group, which the major and myself completed, might have
formed a subject for a painter. The Claddagh men knew the

228 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

extent of the danger : it was, perhaps, as well that we did not.
Having appeased their reciprocal wrath, and represented that it
was as well to try some remedy, we at length got down the sails,
lightened the boat, and got the anchor astern. The difficulty,
however, was this — that we had no sound bottom to work on.
Oars and spars buried themselves in the sand, and required
greater efforts to release them than could be devoted to the
impetus necessary to clear the boat. Once having, however,
moved her, by all bearing on one side, and just as we supposed
she was about to float, a roll came in and set us higher than
ever up the strand.

There was nothing for it now but our all getting overboard :
this was effected by first securing her to an anchor astern —
tying on to our feet the boards ripped from the lining of the
vessel, and ranging ourselves along the side, up to our arms in
the surf.

After continual slippings from the gunwale, and one or two
immersions, the major threw himself into the boat, and gave up
the affair as useless.

It was not so ; the tide fortunately assisted us — and in two
hours we were again safely under sail : shipwrecked mariners
indeed, but shipwrecked in the finest weather which could have
ever invited a voyage.

We now resuscitated our fire. The coal-fish were prepared,
cooked, and — thrown away ; for more execrable creatures were
never presented for food. This addition to our meal was
attempted and rejected by all ; not, however, without the
drollery of our Claddagh men, who knew and avoided these
pests of the coast.

It appears that these creatures follow the herrings, and
make sad havoc with the nets; they are sometimes taken in
extraordinary quantities, salted, and sent to England, where a
sale is found for them, in Lent, under the disguise of salted cod.
Iliey must form a very inferior substitute for that excellent fish.

The harbour of Roundstone now opened to us, in all the

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 229

majesty of a fine, deep bay, well protected from the Atlantic
gales by numerous islands of rocks, forming a natural break-
water. The passage up to the rude quay, which the natives
have constructed, was easy; the regret that accompanied the
view of a harbour, by Nature^s hand alone constructed, capable
of receiving ships of almost any burden, but uncheered by a
single mast, save from the wretched turf- boats, was inex-
pressible.

A few straggling houses along the quay formed the town —
the town of Roundstone — the capital of this immense tract,
where, from the park gates to the house of the proprietor, it is
boastingly put forth that fifty miles may be numbered.

Having secured our lodging at the little public on the quay,
the only one the town afforded, our first care was to provide for
the poor Claddagh men. Their wants were easily supplied : a
pipe and the eternal iron pot of potatoes satisfied their demands.
But our own were not so easily complied with — the major''s
bustle, and Owen''s importunity with the landlady, however,
soon extracted the important information that a dinner was
preparing — but it was for the clergyman, the Protestant minister,
who lived at the public. We were soon admitted as guests to
the only boarded room in the house, and permitted to share the
preparations of the reverend pastor of the Roundstone flock.
But, without this permission, we should have had nothing but
the smoky kitchen, and the humble fare of eggs, potatoes, and
butter.

Our new acquaintance was communicative. It is not
difficult to remark the effect of want of society — the change
which the constant absence of intercourse with our fellow-men
will engender. The order of our friend's conversation was that
of monologue — we had scarcely a chance of a remark — and yet,
so long had the small things of Roundstone achieved greatness^
in the estimation of the segregated minister, that he never
doubted all the little affairs which related to himself were
fraught with the highest interest to us.

230 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

It appeared, however, that his stipend was fifty pounds per
annum, which was awarded him by the bishop of the diocese,
not as a curate, but as a missionary, whose business was to con-
vert from the fatal errors of Popery the inhabitants of these
wild coasts. His success he himself recounted — appealed to the
great increase of his congregation, and solicited the honour of
our attendance on the following Sunday; on which day, we
hoped to find ourselves near Belfast.

His church was the very room in which we were dining, and
his whole congregation consisted of the police and the coast-
guard. They were, I believe, ready-made Protestants, provided
by government regulation ; but I could not discover that he had
gained one communicant from the inhabitants. Our meal soon
finished, and the major having dozed through the ecclesiastical
politics of Roundstone, " the matarials '" were the signal for the
sportsman''s evening ; and, willing to get some information from
the major''s travels, I gently excited his reminiscences.

He had travelled in America, when serving in the British
line there, and he had not arrived at the fourth tumbJer, when,
aroused by a reference to the salmon horsemanship, he took um-
brage at the bare hint of that story being deemed extraordinary.

" What think you of catching a sea-seipent with my shoe ? ''"

We all begged to have the story.

" I can assure you, sirs, that the fishing of America is beyond
all that could be conceived in a country like this, whence
monsters have been long since banished. Would you believe in
a salvation from a shoe ? — Faith and the thing happened."

" Salvation from a shoe ? '''

" Be aisy — youVe too much in a hurry, any way " — and the
major settled himself to a story. I endeavoured to give every
demonstration of absolute attention.

" I served in the British line, in America, during the last
war. We were stationed up the country — a few detachments
of outposts, on the borders of our American possessions. The
divil was always in me for a fisher, and the regulations could

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 231

never restrain my wanderings wherever a fish could be had.
One of my peregrinations was interrupted by a tribe of Indians,
whose purpose was poHtely that of depriving me of any necessity
of again dressing my hair for parade, or any other purpose. I
was to be scalped ; and nothing but showing my fish, which a
good day's sport had afforded, and the tackle, which I always
carried with me in abundance, saved the natural covering of my
head. Such delight did the savages express at the delicate
manufacture of my flies and hooks, that they immediately
formed a circle and danced around me. I was invested with all
the honours of the tribe — a detestable compost was thrust into
my mouth, in token of kindness and patronage ; and, though
I understood no word of their speech, I had little doubt of
the maning of the ladies. Oh ! ifs the ladies will get an
unfortunate out of difficulties ! *"

This tribute was heartily responded to, and the young
clergyman was by no means backward in the expression of his
conviction of their power.

" It was soon intimated to me that there was a place full of
fish, to which I was to be led. I followed with alacrity enough,
glad of the possession of that organ by which I signified my
ready consent — I mean my head. I was conducted by the two
chiefs to a splendid waterfall, into which two rivers emptied
themselves. The constant dry weather had so exhausted the
streams, that the fall had become gentle, and nothing but a dull
and undisturbed basin presented itself. A boat was soon pro-
cured, my flies were soon ready, and the divil may tell the rest
of the sport, for I'd hardly be believed.'"*

I protested that nothing but the most perfect conviction
followed all the major's assertions. He was appeased, but not
without some misgivings; for I could observe that, in the
particular parts of his narrative, his attention was addressed
particularly to me and Owen; every startling point being
accompanied by a close examination of our countenances.

" The huchos were there. The hucho is a fish, half pike and

232 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

half salmon ; they are known in Norway and the lower rivers
of America. Och! it's impossible to tell their number. It's
enough to say, that eax;h cast had its fish ; and, as I threw the
monsters ashore, the Indian chiefs danced round them in an
ecstasy of delight. This went on till my arms were tired of
reeling up. In a moment there was a solemn silence ; not a fish
rose ; the water was clear as crystal :^' What's up in the in-
fernal community ? ' thought I. It was then I looked down to
the bottom ; the whole was as clear as daylight ; the sun shone
with extraordinary brightness, and I could distinguish the
minutest stone — not a fish was there.

"At length I observed something black, and of an extra-
ordinary length, exactly like the sunken trunk of a tree, taper-
ing towards the end, and the tapered end waving, as though in
a current. ' The deuce a current is here,' thought I, and, while
I examined the form, two red eyes struck me with terror. The
trunk gradually rose to the surface ; och, it was terror then that
seized me; the red eyes showed a monster, that made me
heartily wish myself ashore — it was the work of a moment — I
jumped up in the canoe, over went the execrable craft, and
myself was in a moment precipitated into the basin. You needn't
doubt but that I struck out like a frog ; the monster rose to the
surface ; away swam I, in all the horror of impending death — I
was seized by the foot — fortunately, my shoe came off; the
monster struggled with it in his throat, so tough was the
material, that, before he could recover his power of a second
attack, I had reached the shore.

" It was then the Indians embraced me, took out their red
betel, and marked my face in extreme kindness : — ' To the ford,'
said I ; but the divil a word they understood ; but, brandishing
their tomahawks, we followed the stream to the shallows — there
was my monstrous antagonist struggling in all the agonies of
death — hatchets and bludgeons were in instant use, and the red-
eyed vermin was chopped and beaten into submission — he
measured fifteen feet, with his head off."

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 233

" That was a surprising adventure," said the clergyman.

" It was a terrible one," said I.

"By the powers, and saving the major^s presence," said
Owen, as if awakening from a train of ratiocination, " but that
was a fishing, any way ! "

"It's more than surprising," said the major; "it happens to
be true, and this is the tooth of the brute that was caught by
my shoe."

The major produced a large ivory tobacco-stopper, held it
up, placed it in the bowl of his pipe. The fact became indis-
putable !

CHAPTER XX

Connemara — Serving a Writ — Mr. Martin's Permission to Fish — Rags,
Rags, everywhere Rags ! — Character of the Inhabitants — Departure —
Bad Roads — Desolation of Connemara — Cong — The Subterranean
River and the Lady White Trout — Mountain Accommodation — A
Strange Adventure in the Gorge — Its Satisfactory Result — Bog River
Fishing — The Wilds of Lough Mask — The Desert Lands and their
Proprietors — The Major's Run and Catastrophe — The Prize.

It required no great trouble on Owen's part to rouse us from
our beds — they were bad enough, and constructed on the most
approved plan for preventing rest. Our Cleiddagh men had
taken their leave the preceding evening, and were far on their
journey homeward. They had parted with us in regret — having
entreated us, in any future visit to Galway, not to recount the
adventures on the sands.

With good spirits the major and myself, burdened with
nothing but a wallet strapped across our shoulders, our fishing-
rods and baskets, strode over the rugged masses which constitute
the entrance of this almost unexplored country.

Connemara is the most desolate waste on the face of the
civilised globe ! Many have spoken of it, yet few have dared to
enter the savage dens which are here and there scattered along
the undrained bogs — one continuous mass of rocks, piled on
each other by some extraordinary convulsion of nature, till they
overhang their base — here and there patches of green alluringly
presenting themselves between the abrupt projections, on which,
should the luckless traveller place his foot, he is buried for ever !

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 235

Fifty miles from the lodge-gates to the proprietor's house ! —
that is, from the first mud hut that stands on the domain of
Ballinahinch — lodge - gates ! — description is beggared ; holes
dug in the bogs by the road-side, broken rocks for a floor, and
turf for a roof, at once furnish the habitations of the tenantry,
and the lodge-gates of Connemara !

This is the free desert into which it has been said that the
king's writ never but once came ; how, on that occasion, it dis-
appeared, ought to be no secret.

Two officers, more daring than their brethren, undertook to
serve a writ on a proprietor. Having entered the confines of
Connemara, suspicion as to their purpose was soon awakened ;
the wild inhabitants assembled, and, as the luckless strangers
proceeded, they found their retreat cut off* by hundreds of
followers, whose numbers increased at every turn. The attend-
ance continued to their arrival at the destined spot, when the
people closed around, with every mark of civility, off*ering their
assistance. They were surrounded. The officer's credentials
were produced, which, on the spot, he was compelled to swallow,
seal and all, himself crammed into a sack, and precipitated over
the bridge into the river. The other escaped. Hundreds were
present at this inhuman act, but not one was ever betrayed.

But the writ has, I believe, run into Connemara, nevertheless ;
and the power of the law is vindicated in the wretched poverty
and destitution of the inhabitants, whose welfare is under the
immediate guardianship of the receivers of the rents appointed
by the law.

As we approached the bridge which leads to Ballinahinch
Castle, as a wretched white farmhouse is termed, we observed
girls and lads, almost naked, watching our progress from behind
the rocks, and peeping, as it were, in terror of our appearance.
Whenever we turned our full gaze on them, they ran from their
hiding-places up the rocks, evidencing all the agility and timidity
of the savage, who had, for the first time, seen a new animal.
Our observers increased as we advanced to the bridge; men

236 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

stayed their occupation to gaze on us; while here and there
clusters of human beings might be seen, fully intent on examining
our strange appearance. Six miles had we traversed without
having discovered a dwelling beyond what a night's labour
might construct. Those we did observe consisted of holes cut
in the bog, and covered with the dried turf ; the staring inmates
regarding us with astonishment and suspicion.

The little cottage of Kelly at length presented itself; he is
the fisherman in the employ of the proprietor, as he is termed,
Mr. T. Martin. I presented my permission from that gentleman
to fish the lakes. We were utterly astonished to find that the
permission was of little avail ; it was indeed a permission to fish,
but the means were in other hands. We found the boats in the
hands of some vulgar person, who took umbrage at our expecta-
tion of leave to fish being regarded if coming from any person
but himself. The boats, he said, were his own, and he cared
not for Mr. Martin's leave ; he should do as he liked. Our
error was in not having solicited the permission of this official
receiver of the rents. Hitherto, however, the liberality of the
Irish landlords had utterly disarmed us of suspicion. Through-
out the south of Ireland, even where the rivers were rented at
high sums, no obstruction to the angler had ever been offered.
It was left for our entrance to Connemara, to which dismal
region the visit of the tourist would bring more advantages than
could be returned by the hospitality of the inhabitants, to find
all the laws of proprietorship strictly enforced. It excited only
a smile to look around the wild morasses, the herbless rocks, the
uncultivated plains, and remember that leave was necessary to
angle in measureless lakes, from which the combined wealth
of the inhabitants would hardly supply the means of capturing
a single fish.

It is but just to Mr. Martin to say that he was not in
Connemara, and it is equal justice to say that he was ill repre-
sented in the authoritative person who assumed his power.

Disappointed in the use of the boat, we nevertheless pursued

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 237

our purpose ; but the lake-fishing was difficult ; the sides were
composed of bogs, and could with difficulty only be approached.
We did not feel that security which had elsewhere attended us ;
and, as the evening approached, having met little success, we set
out on our return to Roundstone.

Rags ! rags ! everywhere rags ! The singular ingenuity with
which those are held together astonishes, and the only means of
keeping them on the limbs would appear to be the veritable
wooden skewer. The beings who had in groups assembled as
we retraced our steps, presented most grotesque figures ; standing
up to their ankles in the wet bog, they regarded us, apparently
ill-disposed, unlike the Irish of other districts, to exchange the
civil recognition. Had they been met anywhere but in Conne-
mara, it would have been impossible to have restrained from
laughter at the various devices which had been resorted to for
the purpose of covering parts of their bodies. But the Conne-
mara peasants are not to be ridiculed. Their deeds have been
deeds of seriousness, and we remembered them as we passed.

It was a matter of wonder with Foote what the beggars in
England did with their cast-ofF clothes, for at some time they
must be worn out even for beggars ; yet one never hears of
their ultimate destination or use. Foote had never visited
Connemara, or his difficulty had been at once solved — they
must be bought by the Connemara freeholders !

But Connemara has indigenous wealth; its natural pro-
ductions are marble, tin, lead, and coal; all which invite the
labour and enterprise of civilised man. Alas ! there is neither
talent to suggest, means to prosecute, nor safety to complete
the undertaking !

We lost no time in preparing for our departure ; having,
with some difficulty, procured a cart, which was dignified by
the name of a car, we rather sailed than bounded over the
roads. The undulations, occasioned by the unfixed bogs, over
which the roads pass, being formed only of a wood foundation,
would create alarm, and not, in some places, without cause.

238 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

These roads, which have been constructed at immense public
expense, are continually giving way; rendering the journey
through this dismal region a work of exercise, as every five
minutes the traveller is warned to alight, to avoid the danger
of being entombed in the morass. The major's industry
prevailed ; he was our driver : and an unintermitting dis-
ciplinarian, as the gentle mode of persuasion made no impression
on the sullen brute on which we depended for our arrival at
a lodging better than the bogs presented.

Oughterard at length appeared; the major thanked his
stars that he had at length got out of such ruthless dominions ;
and Owen crossed himself, in token of gratitude that he had
passed the dangers of a visit to Connemara.

I cannot dismiss this neglected district, however, without
expressing my high admiration for its scenic beauties. They
are various as the productions of nature, and call loudly for
the interposition of the skill of man. But, until the habits of
the uncultivated creatures who dwell amidst them are greatly
changed, however vast the natural advantages, there can be
no inducement for the capitalist to risk his energies among a
people who have long been trained to consider themselves above
all law.

So general and so great is the apprehension of the lower
orders of other districts, that, even where employment has
been offered, they have declined to undergo the danger of
fixing their habitations in Connemara. The jealousy entertained
by the aborigines is sufficient to deter new-comers; while the
secrecy with which the most atrocious crimes have been com-
mitted, and the utter fearlessness of the law's visitation, have
given a long-fancied impunity to their conduct.

But Ireland must not be blamed for Connemara, nor
Connemara spoken of as Ireland. Once over its borders, and
the civility and courteousness so characteristic of the Irish* in
general are at once recognised. Nor, if I were plainly to give
my opinion, would I throw too much blame on the inhabitants

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 239

of Connemara themselves; when the time shall amve that
may give to many proprietors this now neglected tract — and
that time we may hope is not far distant — instruction and
improvement will contribute to place these unhappy and
hitherto hardly - treated people at least on a level with the
rest of their countrymen.

To Oughterard the civilisation of Galway has extended;
and accommodation and comfort may be procured. I should
certainly never advise the English tourist to trespass farther
into Connemara than this post. There is nothing to invite the
angler ; as no place of rest, from the laborious lake-fishing, is
anywhere offered ; nor, indeed, do I believe the fishing itself
good. The white trout we secured were of no very inviting
size ; and the one salmon, which by accident we had captured
at the bridge, was of a bad colour and quality. It is a preserve;
and the preservation, I doubt not, will continue to be easy, at
least as far a^ English tourists are concerned.

Our boat to Ashford, a small creek of the Corrib, was
ready — we were already denuded of all personal incumbrances —
the major had tightened his wallet, Owen strapped his sack —
travellers indeed ; and now prepared for the worst that a desert
could inflict. Our greatcoats and cloaks, however, which had
been sent on to meet us at Oughterard, were now not forgotten ;
and the tent, which had long been the theme of the major's
laudations, was well packed. The morning was fine, and,
luckily, the wind was in our favour; the beautiful islands
which cover the lake — each having, in the rising light, its
peculiar and distinguishing hue — formed an addition to the
scenic charms of this splendid expanse. But the major saw
no beauty in it, and declared that he never knew anything
come of the picturesque — if there was no fishing there was no
beauty — and Lough Corrib was beneath his contempt, harbour-
ing, as it did, the detestable destructionists of all waters, the
vermin pike. His indignation, indeed, was great at my pro-
position that we should trail over the Lough ; and he expressed

240 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

sui'prise that a rale fisherman could be induced to stoop to
such a profanation of sporting. I submitted — and we shot
our way over Corrib.

It was mid-day when we arrived at the creek, and we had
some difficulty in procuring assistance to transport our luggage
to the main road. This, however, was at length found, and
a rough pony and a lad hired. The route we purposed to
pursue prohibiting any vehicle, the tent was slung across the
animal, which a little ragged, but good-humoured fellow, who
spoke no word of English, was to conduct. We soon reached
Cong, a village of a few huts, if it may be so dignified, about
midway between Lough Corrib and Lough Mask. A river
connects these lakes — but not a river to be traced — one of the
most extraordinary freaks of nature has sent the full stream
through the earth; it disappears for a considerable distance
and again bursts forth, in the neighboiu-hood of Cong, in an
enormous whirlpool, the object of general curiosity, as its depth
has never been clearly ascertained. It is no matter of surprise
that such a place should be the scene of much superstitious
and romantic invention. The river, where it was suited to
the angler, did not present much attraction, and we passed on,
with a hope of reaching, before evening, Craigh, on Lough Mask.

" The divil a white trout did I see in the cave, Owen."

«NorI."

" Your honours didn^t look long enough — maybe she''s there
still."

" Well, tell us of the white lady."

" Faith, and it's a doubtsome story, any way — but the ould
woman swears it's true — and it all happened in the time of her
own particular grandmother, that lived at Cong, and kept a
potheen shop, where the identical sergeant was billeted. There's
many accounts of her, poor lady."

" Tell us the old woman's."

" It was in Irish she tould it ; it mayn't be quite so believable
in English."

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 241

We protested that should make no difference.

" Why, formerly, all the rocks here — and the deuce a bit of
anything else there is now — were beautiful praty fields, all
smiling like ; and there was, on the top of that kill devil range
that covers the road, an ilegant house entirely, of the great
king of Connaught. It was his daughter. Oh, she was just
what your honour would call beautiful — with long hair and a
muslin cap, for all the world like the fairies themselves. Well,
there comes a great king of the Connemara bogs — bad luck to
^em and the divil mend them ! — and makes a great to-do about
marrying the beautiful young crathur in white ; and a bargain
was struck, and the day was named, and the portion paid, and
all were joyful like, except the beautiful young crathur herself,
who did nothing but grieve because she had lost her choice in
battle, and wouldn't be comforted anyway. Just as the priest
was going to pronounce the benediction, a fine little crathur,
exactly like herself, appeared, but nobody but the lady could
see her. Oh, it was thin they had the private talk, which
nobody heard but the priest. ' Save me,' sis the lady. — ' Och,
it's meself that'll do that same,' says the fairy ; ' your husband's
to be no king of the bogs, but a noble soldier, home from the
wars.' — ' Go on,' sis the father, sternly like, to the priest. ' To
be sure I mustn't,' sis the priest ; and, just at that moment, the
book fell from his hand, and away vanished the beautiful lady,
all elegant to behold^ in the shape of a white trout. Splash
went the fairy and she into the stream, and under ground they
wint together ; and sure that's the rason she'd never be caught,
but comes out, once a day, to look for her soldier — never caught
but once."

" How was that ? "

"Faith, and a long time passed, and a great big hulking
sergeant came to be quartered at Cong ; and, hearing what had
happened, he swore he would have the lady, for he was the
soldier waited for. Oh ! the spalpeen ! with a beautiful fly he
tempts the darling from her dark hole — she caught at the fly —

242 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

the soldier landed her without any play at all at all, and ran up
to the potheen shop, where he determined to have a capital
dinner off the lady trout. There she lay on the table, saying
nothing for herself, as if she was really a dumb crathur like,
while the soldier takes the knife and gives one score down the
side of the fish. Oh, then was the bother entirely — a cloud of
smoke and a room full of fairies scattered the soldier's brains —
the room turned around, and the roof fell off, and out flew the
beautiful white trout and the whole band of the good people to
the dark cavern again. Oh, ifs many have seen her since, with
the red stripe down her side, peeping into the daylight.'*'

" Is this all the story of the Cong white trout ? '*"

" Faith and it is.''

"Then it's a confoundedly bad one," said the major.

" Whisht," said our companion, " I was thinking so myself
— but we may as well get out of the country of the good people
before we say so."

Ridiculous as this account may appear to the reader, it is,
nevertheless, of such high credit among the ordinary travellers
who stay at Cong, that they generally visit the cave of the
white trout, with a view of catching a glimpse of her ladyship.
I was unable, by any inquiries, to explain on any reasonable
supposition the groundwork of the belief that trout do inhabit
the subterranean river. The absence of light would probably
prevent it.

We halted at Craigh — the major being obviously wearied,
and having too much calculated on the resources we should
meet on the road. Here, beyond a turf fire and potatoes, was
nothing : and we had to dispatch Owen some distance to pro-
cure eggs. I regretted that we had not fished our way, or
preserved some of our birds, all of which we had abandoned as
useless addition to our luggage. Luckily the major had his
flask, for the whiskey we procured was what the Irish call a
"durthy drop." Our pallets, which were of straw, did not
exactly suit with the recent good accommodation we had met,

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 243

and we required little inducement to proceed early in the morn-
ing. A little warm milk refreshed us, and we set forth on a
dull misty daybreak, resolved to traverse the wilds of Carragh.

We soon came in sight of the lake, which leaving to the
right, we pursued our way on the Westport road. The Agha-
gower mountains contributed to increase the gloom of the day,
and shut out from the dark waters of the mountain lakes the
view of the Atlantic. The road now crossed the two rivers
which lead from the very sources of the broad Corrib ; and we
halted to resolve. I proposed following the mountain river,
while Owen and the major should try the lake, and join me
down the stream. This plan was adopted, and the boy with
the luggage was directed to follow me over the rocky masses as
well as his stifF-legged pony would allow. It had rained during
the night, and the water was slightly coloured, giving goodly
expectation of sport. The trolling tackle, therefore, was adopted,
and not long ineffectual. The white trout were up the rivers,
attracted by the unusual height of the stream — they were not
large, but, in our perishing condition, I secured all that gave
me the least chance.

There is, between the road and the first fall of the river into
the great Lough Mask, a magnificent gorge ; the rocks on each
side were nearly perpendicular, overhung with brushwood. Its
darkness was awful, while the angry stream dashing into the
basin below sent forth a hollow sound, that was re-echoed from
the many walls of rocks up which the sound ascended. I paused
at the attempt to descend, but, lured by the prospect of finding
here a maiden fall, which, in all probability, the line of the
angler had never yet polluted, I consulted my young companion,
as far as signs could be called a consultation. He shook his
head ; but I cheered him on to the attempt, fastened the pony
to the brushwood, and showed the way. The boy followed with
my rod, which, however, it was found necessary to abandon in
the descent ; and, in a fit of determination, I let it down to the
bottom of the gorge : where the rod goes, thought I, the angler

244 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

must follow ; and, supporting myself amidst the stunted trees
which lined the sides of the rocks, and never daring once to
look downward, scrambled along the ledges. At some distance
down, when return was hopeless, we discovered that there was a
blank in the ledge; the whole view of the country, and the
splendid cataract at a dizzy height, were presented : but the
precipice was not to be descended.

Mortified and fatigued, I rested for some time undetermined
how I should proceed, and regretting my hasty determination
in having dispatched my avant-courrkr, the companion of so
many and so cheerful scenes. " Hun-ah ! '" cries my little ragged
attendant. I turned suddenly, and beheld him suspended from
a branch, and about to drop on the lower ledge. There was
joy in his countenance ; I followed him — the ledge on which he
had descended was the first of a series which led to the gulf.
It was a dangerous journey; but what angler could resist the
dark and boiling basin, in which, during a partial flood, the
trout and salmon would necessarily be congregated in their
peregrinations upward. It was but an effort, and we were both
landed on the rugged rocks, which formed the bed of the winter
stream. My rod was soon recovered ; nor was I long in making
my way towards the fall, which now became almost deafening.
I directed my little Mercury to bring round the pony to the
lower part below the precipice, where I should be able to
join him.

It is not easy to describe the sensation of loneliness I felt.
Pictures of a new country are nothing to the reality of such a
spot as this. Though it was day, there was hardly sufficient
light to enable me to direct my steps with due care, while the
slippery surface of the rocks contributed to divers prostrations,
not claiming the respect of religious rites, nor accompanied
by that resignation which excluded some short exclamatory
apostrophes. But the basin was at last achieved. It was about
one hundred yards in diameter, and required no great strength
to command it. The fly was useless : the short but darkening

1 Shook off the Butt."

Facing page 245.

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 245

trees reached nearly to the surface ; no net ever could have been
used in so deep and irregular a hole, if even the superstition of
the natives would have allowed the attempt. Having well loaded
my line with lead, I passed it gradually down the foaming fall
into that part of the pool which formed the deep and boiling
eddies. The run was instantaneous, and I was immediately
rocked by a large fish. I had now gained some experience in
this kind of resistance, and determined to give time to the
enemy, who seemed disposed enough to take it, as, with all my
jagging, he remained immovable. I now set up a second tackle,
laying my rod over the rocks, determined not to lose a first fish
by any want of temper or management. By the time I had
completed my second tackle, up sprang the fish at the lower end
of the basin : I seized my rod ; and, I believe, never had a more
determined or spirited enemy to combat. He yielded, however,
and I was drawing him gently to land, delighted with the
success the adventure promised.

As I turned towards the shore, I encountered the face of a
man close to mine, whose lineaments can never pass from my
remembrance. He was enclosed within a mass of rags : the hair
and beard covered the whole of his face, with the -exception only
of the high cheek-bones, which, protruding through the matted
locks, gave an awful effect to the deeply sunken face ; the eye
was quivering in alarm ; and there was an agitated expression,
which evidenced some terrible emotion under which he laboured.
I caught the infection. I saw nothing but death in such a spot,
beyond the possibility of assistance, and opposed to a being
whose state could not be rendered more desperate. I threw
down my rod without a word. The fierce eye of the stranger
pursued my every act. I shook off the butt, and took an attitude
of defence. A slight smile passed the features of the man, as he
drew from under his dress a pistol.

" You are here in search of me ? "''*

"No.''

" You are no Irishman.'*

246 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

"None;'

" Then, for the love of God and your own life, tell me — am
I sought for — will you betray me ? "

" I will not;'

" Thanks, Englishman, you are safe ; I wall take the word of
the Saxon, though the Saxons are our oppressors. How could
you descend these rocks ? I believe no man has, before myself,
attempted to penetrate to this dark and dangerous hole — a
sudden flood and you are swept away without the chance of
escape — ^this pool has chambers underneath the fall, that would
bury for ever the creature whose step should slip. — I heard a
gun an hour ago ? are the bloodhounds on the track ? *"

" It was my rifle — be satisfied, you are perfectly safe, as far
as I am concerned : shake off* the horror that seems to have
imnerved you. What, in the name of Heaven, can have rendered
you so desperate ? "*'

" Your honour shall know. Look into this cavern '' ; he led
the way into a fissure of the rock, which was wholly obscured
from the view by the thick clusters of brushwood and short oaks.
At one end of the cave were a heap of rushes and the smoulder-
ing embers of a turf fire, over which had been suspended an iron
pot ; the aspect of the man, as he leaned over the fire to restore
its flame, was ghastly, and I involuntarily drew back from so
uninviting an apartment. My new friend followed, and,
familiarly laying his hand on my shoulder, as if to detain me,
" Sure, sir, it's yourself will listen to my miseries. Fd show you
hospitality, if I could, here ; but maybe ye'd rather not sit in
the cave.*" I declined that honour, while he pursued the train
of his narrative. " You see, sir, an outcast — if the bloodhounds
once caught him, would hang a thousand times, if a thousand
lives he had."

" A criminal ? Say no more — I wish to hear nothing of your
life or deeds — as yet you are safe."

" Safe ! I am safe. I have continued safe, even through the
bloody butcheries of Rathcormack. Even where the widows —

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 247

made so by the Church — send up their morning'^s curses on the
murderers. Through all this I am safe ; yet, by this hand —
you see it is a strong one — by this hand four villains of police
fell ; their blood is unatoned, and I am free.^' I shuddered at
the wretch who could so exultingly make a declaration of horrors.
" They were upon my track once ; you see my pistoV — he grasped
it — "the leader of the party gained on me ; I fell ; as he was about
to bind me, a ball passed through his heart — you are one of the
hunters — you are seeking me — beware — I have a load remaining.^'

Bloodthirsty villain ! — I had determined now to await my
opportunity and seize the ruffian — the only difficulty was the
pistol, on which, during his exclamation, he continually laid his
hands. I could not but remark that his language little accorded
with his appearance ; the former evincing an intercourse with
persons of the higher order. Although tinged with the brogue,
his expressions were sometimes even elegant. He took an
evident pleasure in the concern which my manner indicated.
There was a pause for some moments, during which I had
collected my tackle, the salmon having long since made his
departure.

I began, within myself, heartily to regret this adventure, as
putting upon me the necessity of a very serious duty, besides
spoiling my fishing, the duty of delivering a murderer over to
the laws. My own safety was hardly ensured in the rencontre, and
I was deeply calculating by what stratagem I should manage to
betray him into my power.

" Sir,"' said the man, confidentially approaching me, " you
have heard of the affair at Rathcormack — fifty murders in one
day will hardly be forgotten — the police were the murderers —
the police, pushed on by the parsons — they were told to spare
nor man nor child — they spared none. This is a dark place —
the light of day sometimes hardly penetrates — the viceroy is, at
this moment, in search of me. I heard it from some emissaries ;
I would meet him at once, but that there is a difficulty about the
passage to the road, and the ground is better here. When,

248 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

therefore, the fight comes, my dagger will pierce his heart. I
have sworn that a thousand times to the saints, and there are
plenty to help me."

There could be no doubt of the danger which encompassed
me. I had, therefore, arrived at the fixed determination to
arrest the monster in his lair. The only difficulty was the mode
of disarming him of the deadly weapon which he held in his
hand, and scarcely for a moment seemed to relinquish. Stratagem
was necessary. I found it hard to restrain my natural impetu-
osity, which directed the attack at once. I resolved better, and
proceeded to fish the fall again with an assumed calmness.

The horrible stranger took his seat near me as I rested on
the rocks attending to my two rods. The familiarity and
boldness of his manner disgusted me. I was rising to an
ebullition, when he again gently seized my arm : —

" You have heard of the murder. '"'

"What murder.? — The noble lord who fell by the pistol-
ball ? — I have heard of that atrocious act.*"

The wretch smiled — and, standing erect, exclaimed,
"'Twos I!'"

" Then it shall be your last ! ''

I had the advantage — ^he was seated — I fixed my hand on
his throat, and he was prostrate. I found my strength greatly
superior to his struggles. At the very moment he was lifting
his hand to discharge the deadly weapon, I seized and wrested
it from his grasp, and threw it on the rocks. Great, indeed,
was my sui'prise to find that no further resistance was offered.
Anticipating some deep design in this, I bound both his arms
together by a silk handkerchief, so tight, indeed, that he
became utterly motionless.

All this passed so rapidly that the time of the narration
seems tedious. The moment I felt my triumph, and that I
had secured one of the most atrocious malefactors, I scrambled
towards the opening at the end of the fall, the point to which
I had directed my little attendant with the pony. On emerging

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 249

into the light, I was greatly relieved by the view of the
major and Owen, picking their way in great haste through the
bog ; they had with them two strangers. Having hailed them,
and enjoined their haste, I returned to the prisoner, who had
done no more than raise himself against one of the rocks, and,
to my astonishment, was in a convulsion of laughter. I paused
to behold so blood - stained a wretch, and could not refrain
from uttering the reproaches which so naturally suggested
themselves.

" Sir,'' said he, " you would laugh, also, if you knew all —
will you accept my confession? — by St. Patrick, you shall
have the truth, if you will undo this confounded handkerchief
— listen — come nearer — it is a secret that the world is dying
to know — the great truth which is kept with me and me alone.
I am — come nearer.'"'

" Speak whatever you please — I will faithfully report it."

" I am the Pope himself."

As he uttered this he drew himself up, pinioned as he was,
with a degree of dignity ; his eyes again assumed that peering
and anxious look which had at first so powerfully struck me : —
" Hear — if you are a good Catholic — I am the Pope himself —
fall down and worship."

As he uttered this, the major, Owen, and their companions,
had forced their way through the pass. The greetings were
mutual, my exultation complete.

" There," said I, " is the atrocious malefactor who has so
long escaped justice — there is the monster whose murders cry
out for vengeance."

"Oh! be aisy, there," said one of the strangers; "all a

mistake — this gentleman is a friend of mine. Hollo, W ,

why what the divil brings you to the fairy's fall ? "

" I am the Pope," said the malefactor.

"Oh, Pope be bothered! you're Lieutenant W , any

way, and you've got a greater crack than ever in your un-
fortunate head to-day."

250 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

The whole mystery was explained; the poor fellow was,
indeed, a half-pay militia officer, who, having dissipated every-
thing he had possessed, had been consigned by his relations to
the care of the person who now addressed him. A full and
clear explanation followed. It was frequently the case that,
after having procured by the false kindness of friends any
quantity of whiskey, he would disappear from the house of his
host, and hide himself in inaccessible caves. This had happened
in the present instance, and he had been missing two days.

" But,"''* said I, *' how can such a man be entrusted with fire-
arms ? he had a pistol, which was directed to my breast.""

" A pistol ! '" exclaimed the farmer ; " a precious pistol ! one
of his own manufacture.^"*

I produced it ; a general laugh followed ; a blackened piece
of bent iron was all the weapon which had occasioned me so
much real terror.

"Is there no truth in the murders in which he avers he
has been concerned .^ ""

" Murther ! """* exclaimed the farmer ; " the poor fellow

wouldn"'t injure a worm. Come, W ,"*"' continued he, "we

must go.''

He took him by the arm, all his former violence had vanished,
he became perfectly docile, and, without uttering a word, went off
in care of his friend, who gave us an invitation to his cottage,
about a mile distant. It appeared that the two strangers had
been in search of the wanderer when they met the major.

That veteran had been more successful than myself, and
produced a couple of fine salmon, which were really acceptable.
I led to the penetralia^ where turf and the iron pot were ready.
Owen soon made up the fire, and we enjoyed a hearty meal,
enlivened by the store which we had brought on the pony, and
our appetites suffered nothing from their being ministered to
in the madman's cave.^

' I learned subsequently the death of this unfortunate ; in one of
his wanderings he had died, no doubt, from cold and hunger. Althougli

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 251

"Is there such a swamp in England as this?'*'' said the
major, as the whole plain broke on our view, in following the
river between Lough Mask and Lough Corrib; "look about
you — not a blade of grass — here and there, indeed, upon the
rising grounds, a few patches of oats, the rest bog and reeds —
nothing but bog and reeds. Misery in this uncultivated waste
is at the highest sustainable point; the want of food among
these cottagers daily forms the theme of your newspapers, and
sometimes the ground of your subscriptions. A villainous
robbery of the English — those subscriptions. It is only another
way of putting money into the pockets of the landlords. Here,
amidst thousands of uncultivated acres, a wretched patch is
let for three times its value — the poor crop fails, for even the
small tracts that are cultivated are ill managed — all is seized
for rent, and the crathurs die, or would die but for a sub-
scription ; and the liberal landlord, who views this desert, puts
his own name down for a trifle, and expects the public to do
the rest ; while he reaps all the benefit, and showers his favours
among the inhabitants of London or Paris. Among all the
estates you have passed through, what landlord have you found
at home ? *"

I was grieved to be obliged to admit — not one of the
higher order.

" It is to the higher order that these enormous tracts belong.
Give me a grant of a thousand acres of this morass ; in two
years you should see smiling corn-fields where now you behold
nothing but reeds. Just view the depth of the bed of this

the persons who attended him appeared to show him every kindness, I
cannot but think his friends, if such a creature of affliction had any,
should have taken more effectual means for his restraint. Although
generally harmless, as I learned, his passions and feelings were all con-
nected with murder — a tendency in a disordered mind that should
certainly have suggested the necessity of confinement. We found he
was well known among the cottagers of these mountains, among whom
he had been some years located.

252 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

river ; several feet below the bog-suiface. The whole moisture
of this bog might be conveyed into the stream; the shallow
passes might be with little labour deepened ; employment would
be given to the poor, and wealth would be the result to the
landlord. But, no ! the landlord knows nothing of the soil, or
has nothing to spare for its improvement."

" May not this neglect be attributed to other causes ? "

"The accursed restrictions of the tenure,"''' said the major.
" AVhy, half of them have no power to grant leases to those
who would undertake the recovery of the land. Then, there is
the still more iniquitous act of agistment. The instant a plot
of ground is drained, and turned to the purposes of agriculture,
the tithe-owner comes in ; but there must be an end of that.''

" Is it possible,'"* I exclaimed, " that so splendid a country
as this should be unknown or neglected .^^ I see before me
expanses of water, crowded with every kind of fish ; land, capable
of the highest production, and a climate of great mildness and
salubrity; but, when I look at the wretched hovels of the
thinly -scattered inhabitants, I cannot but believe that some
great error exists. What can be the inducement to emigration
to New South Wales, while millions of acres here are untouched
by the hand of the agriculturist ? "

"Push on," said the major; "these are reflections that
bring no good effect. We are in a wild country, but its
wildness is our sport ; that river, noble and bounding as you
see it, knows but one angler, a poor fellow whom we met at
the top of the rocks, with a hazel rod, a stout string, and flies
of the coarsest texture; he, I believe, is the lord of this
stream."

" And can catch a fish, any way," says Owen.

"Millions of salmon pass this stream annually; they are
never touched or sought for until in the shallow tributaries : a
villainous system of poaching is earned on when the fish are
spawning. This evil arises from the poverty of the people, and
their ignorance of the proper art of fishing."

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 253

" There is, it appears, no enforcement of the penalties."

" Enforcement ? "" cried the major ; " all the enforcement here
is about a pipe of tobacco and a drop of potheen ; by neither of
which do the government lose a farthing, for, if they were not
both smuggled, they could never be consumed. To the bottom
of the lake, say I, with their coast-guards and excisemen. Here^''
continued he, striking the sod with the butt of his rod, " here is
the real wealth of the country ; here is employment for their
trumpery coast-guard and their poor. But the prevention of
crimes committed from necessity is never regarded ; it is honour
to a government if it punishes them with rigour. It is pleasing
and satisfactory to find all the noble lords of the United Kingdom,
in one burst of virtuous indignation, exclaim against any lenity
in the punishment of crimes, which are the offspring of ignorance,
and to which their own neglect of the unhappy criminals has
mainly contributed. Where are the capitalists who affect a
fondness for wild sports ? where the numerous classes who yearly
transport their dependants for interfering with the game, the
object of all their solicitude and care ? Let them behold this
void — view those lakes."

I confessed to the inviting nature of the scene, and could
not but join in the wonder expressed by the major, that these
attractions had never yet been sufficiently known to cause the
erection of a single edifice. The economy of such a location
would be no small consideration ; labour is abundant at sixpence
per day for an able man ; stone of excellent quality only for the
bringing; lime everywhere produced. A small income, judi-
ciously invested here, would be wealth in comparison with a
residence in any other country in the world !

" Hould on," cried Owen, in the midst of our apostrophes ;
" he's here, your honour." He had hooked a fine fish on the flat.

" Faith and there's corn still in Egypt," exclaimed the major ;
" where the deuce is my fly-book .? "

He was soon prepared, and as soon rose a salmon — another
— ^he is hooked.

254 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

" The landing-neV cried Owen.

" The landing-net," cried the major.

I stood between the two combatants, knowing not which
to assist.

" ITie gaff,"' cries the major ; " let the spalpeen hould on.**'

At that moment a magnificent fish leapt from the water —
down went the major's rod — "and that's a fair one, any way,'**
said the major; "he'll give us a nm, yet. A hand, for the
saints ! "

I assisted him to disencumber himself of his coat and hat.
" Now we start fair " — but the fish was lodged ; it was the largest
salmon I had seen, and I confess I shared all the sportsman's
anxiety with the major. " Off again " — he was off, indeed ; and
it was impossible to follow, so ludicrous a figure did the major
present, puffing down the stream, utterly unable to guide his
steps, his whole attention being on the reel which was running
at a fearful rate, notwithstanding his own exertions to follow
the fish.

"Gone, by St. Patrick !" exclaimed the major, dashing the
rod into the stream, and falling squat into a bog on his face.
I hastened to his assistance ; and Owen, having landed his fish,
was before me. We raised the major in anxiety — he scraped
the mud from his eyes and mouth, and, as quickly as he could,

exclaimed, " Never mind me ; follow the fish — I'm done " and,

in a pathetic but earnest manner, made out in signs what the
masses of mud in his mouth would by no means allow him to
utter.

We were both sportsmen too well seasoned to hesitate ; but
the rod was gone, and a long run we had to overtake it. There
it was, in the middle of the stream — nothing but the top to be
seen, the weight of the reel sinking the butt; and, to our
mortification, a slack line.

"That's a misfortune, any way," said Owen; "the fish is
gone."

"Gone !" cried the major, who now came up, and who had

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 265

by this time so well effected the process of cleansing by his
pocket-handkerchief, that he had succeeded in well covering
every part of his face, hair, hands, and clothes, with the brown
bog mud — he looked like an animated masterpiece of Vandyke.

" Give me your rod ^ — with a dexterous cast he covered the
top, and caught the line with the flies of Owen''s apparatus —
" gently, and don*'t disturb him if he's there/"* It was a moment
of real suspense — the rod was recovered — the line reeled in, which
had at least one hundred yards out. It was now found to have
taken a different course, and the fish had again turned up the
stream — the line was fixed.

" He's here,*" cried the major.

" Huzza ! '"* exclaimed Owen, in extreme delight ; " this is a
fishing ! ''

"Now, major, for your skill — if you lose that fish '^

"Be aisy,'' said the major, "the time's against me — he has
not been idle all this time — he has been busy enough grubbing
at the bottom, to get the hook out of his mouth — faith and he'll
give us another leap yet."

As he approached the spot where the fish was sulkily
ensconced, I could perceive the paleness of the cheek — the quiver-
ing of the lip — both so indicative of extreme excitement, that I
began to question my own nerve. I was not much more calm —
this was a prize. The major did not venture to hint at the
weight, but it was obvious that he felt he had an enemy worthy
his utmost skill.

The fish now gradually and gently moved up the stream ; a
steady but tight strain was kept on the line, which the reel
gradually received, giving token of an approach to the surface.
He came, like a log of wood, to the top. A fish, indeed — for
one minute I had a perfect view of him as he broke the water
with an enormous tail.

The major grew still more nervous; yet the steadiness with
which he held the rod was admirable. " Beware now," says he.
Up went the fish, at least five yards into the air ! — the rod was

266 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

again down, and recovered at the moment of the splash occasioned
by his fall. " He's safe,'"* whispered the veteran — " that last
spring has tired him."'' He struggled with some violence for
some minutes — I was ready with the gaff — he came gently to
the shore, turned two or three times on his stomach, and I
plunged the hook into his side.

It was well that I did so at that moment — the fly had worn
out of his mouth, and he was free from the line. " Huzza ! '^
cried Owen and the major, in which I heartily joined — up went
our hats, in token of our triumph — the monster floundered on
the shore.

" Salmon,"' cries the major — " the devil a salmon at all ! ""
It was, indeed, no salmon, but one of the great lake trout,
the largest that had been seen for many years, even from the
broad waters of Lough Corrib. Its weight exceeded thirty-three
pounds. The memory of this fish has not passed away — it may
still be heard of among the cottagei*s, many of whom saw it.

Although fish of this size are very rarely taken, I can have
no doubt but that they are abundant in the Lough. The mode
of taking them is not yet discovered. In the lake itself they
are rarely captured but by night-lines, which must always be a
very inartificial mode of taking so timid a fish as the trout.
Yet the expanse is so immense that it is hopeless to traverse it
with flies or the trailing lines : — the small brown trout are
continually infesting the former, and the pike the latter. Nor
am I certain that the large lake trout would be induced to rise
at all at a fly on the lake. In the river, when making their
annual migrations to the tributary streams of the upper lake,
they may be lured by the fly ; but it is a sport of so uncertain
a character that I should hardly recommend the angler to pursue
it beyond an hour or two.

We had now two fish — one seven pounds, a salmon; the
other thirty-three pounds, as we afterwards proved. They were
really a load ; and, from certain intimations from Owen and the
major, I found an appointment had been made to spend the

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 257

night up these dreary mountains which surrounded the bog.
But there was some suspicion of me — why, I know not ; and
Owen was the spokesman, while the major looked on in a quiet
but peering manner, that indicated some doubt of the effect.

" We have five miles, your honour, to return to the road.''"'

" Well, we must trudge it — there is the pony.*"

" But your honour's weary ; and the major is not an over-fine
figure for a gentleman to make among the roaders ; there''s a
good resting-place across the bog.''

" Well, Owen, Fm for the resting-place."

" But maybe your honour will be disturbed."
. "By what.?"

" That's it, your honour — ^you may be disturbed, you see —
but the major will tell how."

" Oh ! you're a rale Kerry man to make out a case. By St.
Patrick and we'll have a fresh drop to-night, anyway — leave all
to me, and we'll keep clear. With the big trout no bad luck
can come to us."

I protested, that after such a day's sport, I feared nothing.

" Give me your hand — you are a sportsman worth coming
to the land of the floods. On with you, Owen, across the bog —
look out."

This was no easy matter ; the pony was the only and the
best guide. Not a step would he take that he had not well
examined ; and we had only to follow the route he made for us.
It was amusing to see the little ragged animal pawing every
spot which was in the least degree suspicious. The boy had
no control when the pony had entertained doubts; and not
unfrequently were we compelled to retrace our steps, at the
suggestion of our mountain guide. At length, by numerous
crossings and recrossings, we reached the base of the rugged
masses of rock, among which there was an ascent. The major
gloried thereat, for he was really overcome; nor can I boast
much of my own endurance, which had given way marvellously
under the difficulty of recovering one foot, while the other was at

2.58 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

least two feet immersed in the bog. The rough and rugged
ascent was, therefore, a relief, and we acquired new spirit, as we
found the foundation firm.

A shrill whistle was now heard, and as immediately replied
to by Owen. It was clear that the major was in the mystery,
for he smacked his thighs with a peculiar satisfaction, an indica-
tion of his perfect approbation, to which I had long since
become accustomed. Some yards farther a mountaineer
appeared ; he was of the roughest order, but had on the veritable
brogues, the great characteristic of the inhabitants of the
mountains. We stooped to enter between two masses of rock,
the passage between which had been well roofed with turf, but
still showing evident symptoms of a hasty and recent erection.
He spoke in Irish to Owen, who translated for us a thousand
welcomes.

There were two apartments : in the first was a noble turf
fire, rough seats made of bog wood, and a table in the centre.
Here were also plates ready prepared — and roasted hares were
soon produced. Our companions had increased to four, and we
sat down to the game with excellent appetites, while one pre-
pared the fish for a broil.

The repast finished, the major intimated that I should have
a drop of the i^aU — a jar was brought in, covered with mud ; it
had been dug from the ground, and from it the major prepared
my tumbler. It was smoky stuff, but anything was acceptable
in a country where absolute starvation would by no means con-
stitute an impossibility. Pipes were produced, and all joined in
the fumigation which filled the cabin.

Owen soon warmed into a toast : " Here''s the honest drop
that a poor man may drink, and parliament be none the wiser."'
The loud huzza that followed this toast explained the whole
affair : just then, also, I caught a sight of the inner apartment,
and did not fail to observe that there was a huge fire in it, as
also a singularly long chimney flue; there was also a very
particular flavour. It was a mountain distillery. I now professed

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 259

myself in the secret, and ■ begged to see the apparatus. There
was no disinclination expressed ; and it is worthy of remark
that there ^v^as entire absence of all suspicion. I was suffered to
examine the apparatus, which was then at work, and consisted
of a large still, which could easily, at a moment^s notice, be
removed. I found, also, that one of the party was absent, and
that he was relieved by another about every hour.

"Do you never deviate?"'"* said Peregrine to the Cornwall
Dan. " No, I always whistles,""* replied he of the Red Cow ; and
whistling was the order of telegraph here ; for while we were all
enjoying the luxuries of a good fire, a long pipe, and fresh
whiskey, a blast so loud and shrill was sent forth, that needed
not a prophetic soul to understand. The still was out of the
hut in an instant. Perhaps it was the sudden excitement which
prevented any due estimation of the enormity ; but the fact
must be recorded that we all joined in this. It was not difficult
to remove the apparatus a distance of twenty yards, where, by
some accident, there was a hole ready cut to receive it, and even
covering of turf and wood, as though Fortune, blind as she
notoriously is, had foreseen the necessity. The quiet was
wonderful, as all drew round the fire in the cabin.

"Stand fast,"' whispered the major; "we may get into
trouble if we remove.""

I took the hint, and endeavoured to look as simple and com-
posed as my friend Owen, who puffed away with all the philosophy
he of the tub would have exercised while enjoying his pipe, had
he known that luxury. There were some slight under-skirmishes
in Irish, but I considered the major a sufficient guard, and did
not interfere to have it translated.

" There are strangers up the mountains," said an authoritative
person to the simple Paddy outside the hut.

" Faith, and ye may say that,"' replied he, " and rale gentle-
men, too, and small blame to 'em, Mr. Exciseman, for coming
where they could find a good fire, and a respectable cabin like

260 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

The stranger entered; we perceived he was armed; two
others followed : they bowed to the major and myself, and then
addressing himself to the veteran, he begged to know who and
what he was.

"You are little likely to know,"" replied he, "unless you
first give us your own birth and education, and more than
that, your authority to make me pass my examination before

ye."

" Hurush ! "" said our friends, in an undertone, " he's got it
there.''

" I am the appointed exciseman of the district — there is my
authority."

" With all my heart, and a very well appointed exciseman
you seem. By the powers, I would have appointed you
myself."

"You must be aware, sir, that our duty compels us to
examine every hut in these mountains : we know that there are
stills regularly at work."

" Stills ! " cried the veteran.

" Stills ! " re-echoed all voices.

" The thing's impossible," replied Owen ; " a still ! "

" Faith, and the likes of a still has never been seen for many
a day up the mountains," added one of our party, with im-
perturbable gravity : " where would the poor crathurs get a
still, except from the bottom of the bog, where our forefathers
may have left it ^ "

" The still, sir, is a very good thing to make whiskey with,"
observed the major, "but I carry my own; my name is Major

, and this gentleman is , and that's Owen, our

attendant, and the divil a drop he'd taste anyway that wasn't
rale parliamentary — would you, Owen ? "

" Saints forbid ! " replied he, as he removed his black pipe
from between his lips.

" Good-night," says the exciseman, " good-night."

" Oh, the bist of nights to you," said the butters, bowing in

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 261

mock gravity, "and give you a snug berth, where the nights
last for ever '"* — sotto voce. They departed.

Another whistle in a few moments, and the still somehow
recovered its lost dignity, and was again spluttering and steam-
ing in the inner cabin.

CHAPTER XXI

The Friar's Visit — The Monster of the Mountains — The Mystery Solved —
The Whiskey Store — The Unparliamentary — Traversing a Bog — Pro-
cess of Grabbling — A Brood of Otters — Castlebar — Wretched State
of the Inhabitants — Annual Subscriptions — Ludicrous Adventure of
Owen — Following a Salmon — Decency on Entering a Town.

As we were congratulating ourselves on the comfortable housing
we had found in so dreary a night, and our good fortune in
having escaped the gauger's lengthened visit, we were again
alarmed by a knocking at the door.

The scout had given no intimation, and the host expressed
less apprehension than ourselves ; he went fearlessly to the door.
An old man wrapped in a blue cloak presented himself; there
was an immediate reverence awarded. Every man rose from
his seat as the stranger entered. It was not difficult to perceive
that he was a priest — one of the mendicant order of friars. He
bowed to the major and myself, and took his seat with an air of
subdued humility. He was obviously weary, and exhibited no
great disposition to stir from the comfortable quarters which
the cabin presented. The torrents descended with increased
violence, while the cottiers shuddered at the peals of thunder
which echoed through the ravines. The reverence that the
friar's presence inspired restrained any observation; the major,
however, girded himself up to another glass, and ventured to
offer his congratulations that we were so well housed.

" Come, worthy father," said he, " it is by no means necessary

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 263

that we should sacrifice to drought while the elements set us the
example of drenching the earth.'''

" I have seen,**" said the friar, " the Monster of the Mountains/'

All crossed themselves, while some whispered to each other,
as though struck with melancholy forebodings : the pipe was
taken from their lips, and each centred his gaze on the friar's
countenance.

" You need not be alarmed," said the friar.

"Faith, and the alarm is all their own," said the major;
"we are strong enough for any monster of the mountain or
flood. Let us know who he is."

" I shall relate the history, because I think it right to in-
struct all in the facts. I have had some difficulty, indeed, in
the explanation which should always be the business of those
who relate wonders, lest the superstitious effect of their recital
should produce some of the many evils which have arisen from
the Monster of the Mountains.

" Four hundred years have passed since the enormous and
terrifying being first appeared in these mountainous wilds. For
centuries has he continued to assume a form sometimes of a
mile in height, of varied colours ; and whenever this apparition
takes place, there are few of the inhabitants of these wild dis-
tricts who do not anticipate some terrible evil.

" Roderick O'Connor was the earliest king of the mountains
of Maamturk. In his time war was unknown ; the peaceful
flocks were fed without interruption on the mazy surface of
these boundless tracts. Beloved was he by all ; the service the
people paid was a service of the heart. Never did the wanderer
pass his noble castle unrefreshed ; nor did the follower of Christ
fail to find in him a patron and a help. He paid neither service
nor suit to any; and the protection his people enjoyed was
effectual even against the Saxon invaders, who had penetrated
to all other, even the remotest, parts of this suffering land.
There was but one greater than he — it was the Monster of the
Mountain !

264 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

*' It was on the eve of a splendid day, when the produce of
the cultivated tracts had been secured — when all within the
dominions of Roderick were assembled at the castle — when the
joyousness of plenty and happiness enlivened the countenance of
every being — that Roderick led his new-married bride in front
of the concourse. She was the loveliest of the daughters of
Erin. Her dark eye beamed with the sweetness which was
inherent in her nature, and as she smiled in recognition of the
cordial shouts which greeted her, the beauteous sun shone forth
as if in unison mth the splendour of her charms. The cup was
raised to every lip, as the O'Connor stood forth by her side.
At the command of the chief, the harpers struck their instru-
ments, and, joined by the well-skilled voices in the native songs,
the noble pair gave their blessing to the crowding thousands
who surrounded the throne of the open avenue.

" Suddenly there was a stillness — the harpers ceased, as if by
a magical command, while every eye was turned upon a tall
majestic figure, who, dressed in knightly armour of a brilliant
green, a plume of feathers of the same colour nodding over his
helmet, with a firm and solemn step advanced towards the
throne of the O'Connor. The chief arose to receive the stranger,
who, having arrived >vithin a few yards, plucked from his hand
the gauntlet, and threw it on the ground. The beauteous bride
uttered a piercing scream, and threw herself on the breast of
her betrothed.

" ' It is enough,' said the stranger, * I have been wronged.
Not the tears of the fair can wipe off the dishonour.' Un-
accoutred as he was, the O'Connor descended, took up the fatal
gauntlet, and, brandishing in his right hand his shining blade,
offered the other to the stranger.

" ' Let no man offer violence to this knight,' exclaimed the
O'Connor ; ' he dies who interferes between us.' The multitude,
which had already risen in token of protection to their lord,
were suddenly awed by the voice of their chief, and every sword
was sheathed.

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 265

" ' The wrong thou hast done me,' said the stranger, ' death
can alone repair ; thou darest not refuse my honour a fair con-
test. I gave thee credit for as much.'

" ' Thou shalt have it.'

"'That syren fair whose hand this day crowns thy bridal
feast is, as thou knowest, my affianced bride — thou hast known
the pledges that have passed between us.'

" ' Never ! '

"'Let me whisper to thee, then, thy madness and thy
misery. She hath been mine already.'

" ' Liar and braggart ! ' exclaimed the chief ; and ere the
stranger had time to draw, he was prostrate with the blow from
the heavy gauntlet, and the blade of the O'Connor was sheathed
in his heart. The stranger threw back his vizor ; the O'Connor
staggered back a few paces, and fell on the lifeless corse of a
murdered brother.

" He was borne unconscious to his castle chamber, while the
clan, excited by the unexpected issue of the meeting, seized the
body of the green knight — ignorant of his rank or name — but
attributing to his sudden and unexplained appearance some
deep injury to the house of O'Connor, conveyed it to the
mountains, and threw his still quivering limbs among the rocks.

" Years rolled on : the beauteous bride of the chief had
brought him three sons — finer lads the light of heaven had
never shone on. The green knight had been forgotten — his
bones had whitened in the sun, on the desert recesses of the
mountain cliffs. It was the anniversary of the wedding-day of
the O'Connor, and the clans again assembled; revelry and
feasting again elated all hearts. In the midst of the shouts,
silence once more suddenly occurred. The green knight,
accoutred as before, stalked boldly up the avenues formed un-
consciously by the terrified people — his vizor down, and the
green plume waving in the air. The O'Connor alone quailed
not, but descending boldly from his throne, took up the
gauntlet which the stranger had cast at his feet, and, as before,

266 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

offering his hand to the knight, passed through the wonder-
stricken crowd.

'' ' Not here,** said the stranger. ' I would meet thee if thou
hast the courage, alone, on the mountain, where the blue craig
thou seest overhangs the precipice : thou hast courage, or thou
wert no O'Connor. ''

" ' I pledge myself to meet thee.'

" ' Enough,' said the knight, who disappeared with almost
incredible swiftness.

" The O'Connor returned to his bride ; she spoke not, but,
trembling, caught her partner in her arms. But there was a
foreboding in her heart, that could not find utterance.

" The people were dismissed, and the gorgeous sun was fast
falling over the mountains. Just as the O'Connor, having fixed
his armour, had received from his attendant the sword which
had once before dispatched his rival, ' Go not,' cried one, who,
in breathless haste, seized the arm of the chief, ' go not to the
mountain — I have seen with my own eyes the slain knight —
green as the moment thy sword pierced his heart — swollen into
a monster of immeasurable size.' ' Go not,' said the lady, on
whose countenance a terror of an unearthly kind was visible.

" ' My honour is pledged, and I go.'

"At that moment, they looked towards the mountain.
The form of the gi^een knight was there. His head reached
the very top of the highest promontory — the wild birds screamed
around him. At the sight, the chief, for the first time,
trembled. The lady fell horror-stricken at his feet.

" ' The young knight,' exclaimed she, ' is my son ! Forgive
me — I was betrothed to the father, whom thou hast slain. He
forsook me — you know the rest.'

"The chief gazed on his beauteous bride for a moment —
his cheek blanched with rage — the white lip trembled, as he
thrust the sword through her heart. The gigantic figure of the
mountain was still there. Casting the body on the ground, he
rushed forth to the combat ; the green knight awaited him ;

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 267

the mountain no longer sustained the monstrous form — he was
slight as before.

"'Thou art come,** said he, 'to meet thy doom. The
murderer of my father shall never triumph. Long have I
waited till the years of manhood came, that I might deal retri-
bution on the cowardly assassin.''

" ' Thy guard ! '' cried the chief.

"'Know first thy injuries, that thou mayst bite the dust in
bitterness. Thy faithless wife — she who saw and directed my
father's murder — it was she who bore me. Thou wast dis-
honoured ere thy bridal night.'

'"Thy guard!' cried the chief; and he fell on the up-
raised sword of the knight without a blow. ' Thou art avenged ! '
exclaimed the dying O'Connor.

"The attendant, who had followed the chief, hastened to
the clan ; the war-cry was raised, and a thousand armed men
rushed forth to the scene, burning with determination to revenge
the fall of their chief. They had attained the foot of the
mountain, when the monster again rose before them : even
while all were struck with consternation, the knight descended
with five hundred bowmen, rushed among the panic-stricken
crowd, of which none escaped the sword. Frightful was the
slaughter among the inmates of the castle ; the two sons of the
chief were among the first who fell. The very morass was
tinged with the blood of the slain.

"Over all, the Monster of the Mountain presided. His
form was visible till the English had laid all waste. The green
knight, the recreant O'Connor, was the general of Strongbow,
and from that hour have the English held dominion over those
beauteous wilds ; from that hour have the noble race, once the
proud and manly attendants of the O'Connors, sunk to mere
wretched cottagers, without liberty or spirit V) achieve it ; from
that hour has every inhabitant of northern Connemara trembled
at the appearance of the Monster of the Mountain, believing
that some further ill is to fall on their devoted heads.

268 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

" ITie explanation of all this,*" said the friar, as he regarded
with a stern look the terrified distillers, " is not difficult ; it is
certain that thousands will never be otherwise persuaded than
that they have seen some spiritual being of enormous dimensions
upon the mountains. Often, indeed, have I reproved those who
repeated this story ; but they were themselves deceived, and
had no intention to deceive others.

" It is in one month of the year only that the Monster of
the Mountain appears ; that is in September, when the sun sets
about six in the evening. Should there be a cloudless sky — a
circumstance not uncommon at this season — the shadow of the
opposite rocks is reflected with a peculiar strength of outline
on the high mountain, and, the glare of the Atlantic falling on
the sunny parts, presents the exact outline and form of a man
in armour. The peculiar greenness of the mountain furnishes
the origin of the story. It is by no means wonderful that, to
persons little accustomed to examine into the causes of things,
and suddenly coming on the sight of so peculiar a picture, the
approach of night adds to the delusion ; and many who were
strangers to the country, on reaching the brow of the opposite
ridges, have sunk under their apprehensions. That the destruc-
tion of that once noble pile took place in the time of Strongbow
is true ; how much of the rest of the tale may be relied on I
know not. I have repeated only the tradition of the country.""

" Long life to the Monster ! '*'' cried the major, as he gulped
down another joram of whiskey, "and thanks to you, father,
for the tale ; but it is day, and we have many miles yet to
traverse of this river ere we meet a breakfast."

The friar bid us a hearty farewell, which was accompanied
by as hearty a blessing. We took also a cordial leave of the
whiskey manufacturers, and begged to have a drop of the " bran
new '^ to fill our pocket bottles.

" Whist,'''' exclaimed the architriclinos, " would you be after
drinking the fresh rum ! FU show you some ten months ould,
as mild as mother''s milk, without a headache in a hogshead.'"

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 26&

He led us on our way till we arrived at the base of the
rocks, and, rolling a large stone from the mouth of a well-con-
cealed hole, displayed several large stone jars, out of which he
furnished our store, and bade us farewell.

I believe a man may be benighted, and knock at many a
park -gate entrance, and find less hospitality and amusement
than we experienced at the hands of the lawless distillers of the
iinparliamen tary. ^

I cannot tell whether dyspeptic people ever become fisher-
men, or whether fishermen can ever become dyspeptic; but it
would be as hard a trial as any I can conceive — even to one of
the guards who finished at the battle of Waterloo the tender
discipline of the Peninsular war — to drink whiskey punch all
night in a cabin, and set forth at daybreak, for the enlivening
purpose of traversing a bog, of twenty miles extent, saturated
with rain. If the powers of digestion are a little irregular and
fastidious, perhaps this would be an occasion to call forth some
of those extraordinary antics their defective subordination so
frequently suggests.

Owen's face looked, if possible, more lengthy than ever ; and
I thought I could discover the major's eye somewhat of the
golden tinge, which, though in the main rather a pretty colour,
is not highly esteemed even by gentlemen from India, who come
to drink Epsom salt water at that pleasant vortex for invalids
— Cheltenham. But I was afraid to venture an observation,
fully impressed with the conviction that the Tu quoque would
form a just rejoinder. I won't say that I was quite well, or
that a good bed, with a nice clean-capped chambermaid, lighting
me thereto, and fumbling about the clothes with an old frying-
pan, with holes in the lid, would not have o'ertopped the hopes
of the fresh in the river. But here was nothing but the wild
heath, the resounding river, now charged to its banks' edge,
bursting through the chasms of solid granite, and in the stillness
of the dawn roaring through the glens. The mists still covered
1 All whiskey which has paid the duty is called parliamentary whiskey.

270 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

the tops of the mountains, and showed forth the dreariness and
desolation of an unexplored expanse.

Nature has made some little confusion in what philosopher
Square calls " the eternal fitness of things *" ; the heat without
is by no means in a proper ratio of that within the body ; for,
though both the major and myself had taken especial care and
used considerable diligence in fortifying the inner man with all
the warmth which new whiskey could possibly excite, it is a
curious fact in physics, for which I am wholly incompetent to
account, that the exterior man did shiver most intolerably.
There was a disinclination to parlance also — at other times little
to be charged on the major; and I believe, friends as we were,
nothing would have been more easy at that moment than to
have concocted a very nice quarrel. None of us were quarrel-
some, but the discourse was monosyllabic, and our words were
chilled ; but neither dared confess the discomfort under which
we all three laboured.

I thought of nothing but the twenty miles, and continued
to occupy myself in ratiocinative deductions, arising from the
fact that a man had been knoAvn to achieve the distance even
without once throwing himself horizontally on a wet bog — an
inclination, however, which ever and anon assumed considerable
force. Not unfrequently did I persuade myself that I could
walk, and sustain the dignity of the ad sidera vtdtus, with my
eyes shut. Nothing could be seen ; the bog was level ; nor was
I roused from the favourable view I had been induced to take of
this very pernicious fallacy but by the practical squash into the
morass, which generally invited the other foot to the rescue of
the offending member, which it was not then exactly convenient
to amputate. There was no inequality of wretchedness, there-
fore, both feet being well saturated with the porter-like over-
flowing of the bog.

As to Owen, I had conceived hopes that he at least would
break down, and give me some colour for following his example.
The imperturbable villain had secured a piece of lighted turf.

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 271

and, as I looked behind to observe how he got on, I had the
mortification of witnessing a countenance of the utmost com-
placency, in the principal feature of which was stuck a short
black pipe, and out of which very principal feature issued long
volumes of detestable -looking smoke. There was no chance
from him. There was nothing for it but to push on.

The river was swollen to a flood ; but, as the rain had now
ceased and the fall was rapid, we anticipated a good cast by
mid-day. The major grumbled at the disappointment, as he
had determined to carry into the town the wherewith of a good
dinner. I found in this state of the water the roe useless — the
fish were scattered by the extended volume of the stream. We
were at least three hours too early, as the major ventured to
observe after a few casts.

" It's a glorious morning, however ,'' said he.

"Splendid."

" The fresh morning air is very refreshing."*'

" I daresay it is.""

" This is a grand specimen of the fisherman's life. Now, I
just observe to you that nothing gives a greater relish to a
breakfast than the mountain air — it's perfectly astonishing what
it will do for the health."

" And the comfort too."

"Why, I was thinking that the smallest drop of whiskey
might do no great hurt, and help us onward."

This was the point the gallant officer had been aiming at
ever since our departure. I could not resist the temptation of
assuring him that it was, of all things in the world, the proper
thing : the stimulus should be kept up when there was no sport
to enliven the labours. The major's draught was not loud but
deep ; and there was a manifestation of enterprise almost simul-
taneously engendered.

" Huzza for the lob-trouts this day ! — the thick water will be
off in an hour. It was just after such a day that I grabbled
fifty of the best salmon I ever saw — all fresh run from the sea."

272 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

" What is the process of grabbling ? ""

" After a fresh flood, the salmon come up in shoals to the
falls, and there rest till they are sufficiently recovered to make
the leap. They are then sulky — will take neither bait nor fly,
but stick like logs under the fall. I then quietly take a dozen
large cod-hooks, tie them back to back, and, with a stout stick,
a strong cord, and heavy lead sinker, let down to the bottom,
every now and then twitch to the right, then to the left, then
upwards, and in-wise, and outwards. Fifty of the silvery villains
fell victims to my industry, till the proprietor of the fall came
personally to pay me a visit, and had the audacity to question
both my right to fish and the fairness of the style of it. As to
the fairness of it, said I, all is fair in love, war, and fishing ; and
as to the right, you*'ll particularly honour me by the acceptance
of this card, where my name and rank are neatly engraved for
the satisfaction of all gentlemen who may render themselves
worthy of my notice. Will you believe that the spalpeen refused
to fight, and talked something about the law ? I wished him
good day — regretted I had mistaken his calling — the mistake
being exactly the converse of Hamlet's, as I had conceived a
Jishrrumger was a gentleman. I gave him no chance for his law,
as I pushed on beyond his district before he had obtained the
summons. But the fifty salmon were capital. I distributed
them among all the poor cottagers as I passed along. Faith,
it was many a day since any of them had seen such a meal,
although living on the very banks of the river. — Did you see
that rise.?''

The intimation was enough. The fish had begun to stir, and
the water was now clearing. We were within four miles of the
town, which the major represented as bad enough at all times,
but worse without notice. It was arranged, therefore, that Owen
should push forward to apprise the landlord of our coming, and
give the necessary orders. He was especially enjoined, if possible,
to take with him a salmon, which was to be ready on our arrival.
Owen pocketed his black pipe, and, charged by so important a

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 273

mission, in which his skill as an angler was to be put to the test,
with an air of offended dignity at the doubt implied, strutted
over the bog, while the major and myself prepared our tackle.

The major's first throw instantly rose a fish, but he rose
short. The same fish rose again at my fly, still short. Down
went the major's rod, and, regardless of the recent rains, he
proceeded to seat himself on the grass.

" Now, what fly do the wilful vermin want ? A flood, and a
light yellow golden pheasant not do for the epicurean villains ? "

We produced the books, and, after a long examination and
due balancing of probabilities, we selected a light blue hackle and
gray wing. We were right ; the first cast produced a salmon
firmly hooked; he was my prize. In a minute, the major was
fast linked to another. In the hilarity of the moment, the
major hurled up his hat, as his fish steadily pushed up the stream.

I was not less exulting ; but the moment of conflict I knew
had not yet arrived. In due course, my fish conceived it more
agreeable to travel downwards — a disposition I had no means of
restraining — and, favoured by the strong current, had thought
proper to adopt the railroad rate of travelling; I mean that
rate expressed in the splendid schedules, about arriving here and
there at such particular hours, but which schedules, and the
columns they contain, have no further effect than that of dis-
appointing elderly gentlemen who look for a hot dinner at 3.80,
and get it cold at 5.20. My salmon had none of this irregu-
larity ; he pushed downwards in earnest, and not according to
any schedule. In doing so — I could not help it, whatever my
gallant colleague may say when he reads these pages — he crossed
the major's line, whose fish was travelling upwards at the slow
coach pace, checked the lines, and, I grieve to say, with such
violence as to smash both. The remnants came up without
trouble. The major looked at me, and I looked at the major.
^- * * * *

These asterisks express a pause — it was a long one. It is
altogether wrong, and very wicked, to ejaculate, — and so is it

T

274

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

to write down apostrophes that have immediate reference to a
state of misfortune not quite applicable to sublunary matters,
but which exclusively belong to a particular extent of heat
hereafter, and, therefore, I refrain. But I must record the fact
that my gallant companion in arms did throw down his white
hat — that he did stamp upon it, notwithstanding its intrinsic

I Looked at the Major.

value as a hat — that he did commit devastation on the very
small proportion of hair which remained at the back of his head,
regardless of its inestimable beauty — and that he did then and
there declare that I had no right — that it was wholly against
the common law of angling, and, as he believed on his soul,
against a particular act of parliament — to allow my fish to run
down while his was taking the opposite direction !

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 275

There was nothing to be said ; I had no excuse to offer ; the
fish was pertinacious, and the act of parliament referred to did
not extend to him, however applicable to me. That was all I
could urge; but if it had not happened that the major had
some respect for me on other accounts, I verily believe our
friendship had been from that moment at an end.

" That was the right colour," I observed, after some time,
and looking cautiously at the major as he gazed on the stream
in a certain inert state of intellect and bodily function. He
looked towards me peeringly, as though he was examining the
extent of my grief, expecting, doubtlessly, to observe a height of
mental anguish which equalled or exceeded his own.

" It was a tolerable colour, by St. Patrick ! ''' and he began
to mend the disposition of his hat, by thrusting his hand rather
energetically into the crown, and using other persuasives to a
resumption of its original form. " You may say that ; it was a
tolerable colour.*"

I like to see a man recovering from a violent passion, the
cause of which is irremediable. The indignation evaporates,
but a strong pride remains, which will not allow the possessor to
acknowledge that the cause was irremediable. The major had
been unhappy but for the opportunity of casting all blame on
me ; and I ventured, therefore, to hint that the statute to which
he had so learnedly referred really applied to himself, as it
strictly forbade any person or persons whatever, under a penalty
thereinafter named, holding, playing, drowning, or following
any fish, whensoever it shall or may happen that another person,
etc. The recitation of this act did not convince him ; but it
sufficiently soothed him to endure the renovation of the tackle
with some coolness, although the knots were completed with
some jerks, each being accompanied by a consignment direct to
inferior regions.

We were presently surprised by a succession of leaps ; four
or five salmon at once cleared the surface. Our surprise and
curiosity were soon satisfied ; the nose of an otter was elevated.

276 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

then another, and another. We were up in a moment; the
rifle had been left with Owen. It was a brood.

" Pelt them with stones ! *" cried the major.

This I did with all imaginable industry, and succeeded in
separating the young ones from the parents. The latter had
gone down the stream, while the three whelps, unable to sustain
themselves under water for so great a length of time, popped
up their heads in exactly the most inconvenient places. The
chase now began ; as the young ones had started up the
stream, we had no difficulty in keeping them in that direction.
At length the three perched on a rock, and began to cry
with the small voice of a cat; they were obviously in the
wrong, and had missed the old ones, who were doubtless not
far off.

The skill of the major was now in requisition; he had hastily
tied to his line all the large salmon-flies he could find, and, at
the distance of twenty yards, ere I was informed of his intention,
covered the three whelps by a foot ; they immediately started,
and the major as immediately drew.

" Here's one at least,"" exclaimed he.

It was true ; he had one of the otters fast ; but the difficulty
of holding him was not trifling. The fight was exactly in the
style of a large and heavy fish ; first he was down to the bottom
of the pool, then, with the rapidity of lightning, he rose at
another part where he was least expected. The contest was
one of most singular dexterity on one part, and of strength and
agility on the other. At length, the smaller of the two fisher-
men began to yield, and, in a few minutes, he was dragged by
main force to the shore. I now assisted in the fight, but warily,
as the little animal bit ferociously at everything that was put
towards him. He died the death of honour ; he was stoned to
death, and crammed into the creel as the most remarkable
trophy of expert angling.

It was hopeless to expect any success, at least within a con-
siderable range of the river, the otters having taken down the

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 277

stream ; and I was by no means unwilling to dismomit the flies,
and go in search of comfort, a very attenuated portion of which
had, for the last twenty -four hours, been our lot. In the
triumph of his skill, my companion had forgotten the contre-
temps in which he affected to believe me so deeply implicated,
and we improved in good-humour and courtesy as we shortened
the distance to Castlebar.

The road was indeed a rough and boggy one ; but, after the
difficulties we had encountered by the river side, even this
seemed tolerably direct ; every second step did not, as before,
give us one foot in the bog.

At length the turfy smoke of Castlebar met our view, and
the exhilaration I immediately felt at the near prospect of food,
raiment, and lodging, would not be repressed ; strength returned
to my previously tottering limbs, and my companion^'s heavy
stump became more energetic.

The gorgeous beauty of the sun reflected on the glassy
bosom of the Castlebar Lake, and the pure green of the moun-
tains, regenerated by the late torrents, formed a cheering scene,
to which the miserable huts we occasionally passed but ill
responded. We had deemed that more extreme wretchedness
than that we had hitherto seen could nowhere be found; yet
the huts we examined, as we entered the county of Mayo,
convinced us that the last and most meagre sustenance might
be absent. Here, indeed, many of the cottagers, if they can be
so termed, were without any article of food. Their small plots
of ground, which were planted, from the damp nature of the
soil had not yet matured the potato, which, in its early state,
is watery and unwholesome.

Some of the poor creatures were huddled over the turf-fire,
while other members of the family were begging around, even
among those destitute as themselves. Starvation was in every
countenance. There was neither spirit nor life in the eye of the
forms which appeared at the hut-doors; the wife sat moodily
nursing an infant, which found no nourishment in the squalid

278 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

parent. The husband looked gloomily by the road side, as if
waiting some impending outbreak.

The state of human creatures once reduced to this condition
is fearful indeed. While their tenants are brought by a succes-
sion of absentee proprietors to the verge of human starvation,
none are louder than those very absentees in soliciting the assist-
ance of the English, and in promoting subscriptions for the
relief of wretchedness which themselves have caused. Nor
should it be forgotten, while these appeals are annually made to
the sympathies of the English, that on few, I may almost say
on no occasions, have the rents been remitted; so that the
enormous amounts generously awarded by those subscriptions
have literally found their way into the pockets of the landlords,
they having first stripped the peasantry, by a ruinous rental, of
all that should have resulted to their labours for sustenance,
and the liberal contributions of the English furnishing that
sustenance.

It is true that the inhabitants of these districts are idle ; it
is a common reproach to them. God help them ! who is there
to direct or foster their industry? Millions of uncultivated
acres surround their miserable huts, on which the hand of man
has never yet been exercised. No leases would be granted;
there could be no remuneration for the labour requisite in the
reclamation; and thus is a destitute population doomed to
view the rank reed covering a soil which would, under a kinder
destiny, supply all their wants, and create their content and
happiness.

Nothing can be more unjust than the system of subscrip-
tion, by which, from year to year, the unemployed population
of Mayo is supported. It is not a subscription for the poor,
but for the rich. It is an annual subscription towards the
extortionate and monstrous rents which are demanded and ex-
acted from the wretched beings who, unknown to other employ,
must till the soil at any impost, or starve.

It is not in disregard of the value of freedom that I observe

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 27D

the readiness with which twenty miUions of the pubHc money
were granted to a maudKn sympathy with the well-fed West
Indian slave, while whole districts, in this our home-land, con-
tain people hurrying to an early grave by the utter want of
food. It is time that something be done. The sight of those
peaceful, yet starving faces, which are presented at every hut,
would affect the heart of a stoic : but the stoics who are the
lords of the soil take good care never to behold them !

On our entrance into Castlebar, and on inquiring for the
inn, we found that the town was really in a hubbub. It
happened to be market-day, and groups of persons surrounded
us. At last we were accosted by one of the country people,
who seemed more capable of addressing the strangers than
the rest, who informed us that oiu- attendant, Owen, was in
trouble — in truth, at that moment, in durance — for an offence
of rather an extraordinary character. The landlord, who was
of the roughest order, received us at the door.

"If ifs your honour's man that's taken up, he has sent
a dozen times to inquire for you, to clear him before the
magistrate.''

The major, who had contracted a real friendship for our
humble attendant, was on fire.

"Who is the magistrate that dares to take up my man,
without first informing myself? Och, it's myself will settle the
matter without the law at all at all."

I could perceive, without much difficulty, that my friend
was in an unlikely mood to become just then a very successful
advocate. Leaving him, therefore, to the pocket-book from
which he was selecting a card, with no very friendly intention
towards the magistrate, I proceeded to make fiirther inquiries,
and learned that our Achates had been exhibiting himself in a
state that would have offended even the ladies of the Connemara
wilds — in fact, that he had been stopped in a state of entire
nudity, running like a madman among all the people coming to
market — that he had been seized, covered, and brought before

280 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

the magistrate, to whom he gave so lame an account of our
honours, that he had been consigned to durance till our arrival.

Our astonishment was immeasurable, and could only be
appeased by the supposition that Owen's peculiarity of character
had at length subsided into absolute madness. We forthwith
proceeded to the rescue, the major burning with indignation,
and determined to get up a fight with some one on this score.
I succeeded, however, in prevailing on him to allow me to be
the manager of the business; and, having sent up my name
to the magistrate, we were immediately admitted. His account
was that our companion had really been taken as described in
the road ; and that the people were fully impressed with the
notion that he was deranged — a conviction to which he himself
had arrived upon hearing the facts. For our satisfaction, he
would send again for him, to enable him to give what ex-
planation he pleased of the matter.

Owen was soon produced. At sight of us he forthwith
brightened up.

" Och, and it's all right now, an3rway ! Your honours have
got the salmon ; I left him to be dressed ; and is it myself
would go to disappoint your honours of a breakfast along with
a few spalpeen market people ! I wonder what divil of a
county this, that a man mayn't catch a salmon, because the
river runs by the side of the road. But your honours will
spake for me, and explain it, anyhow, to his nobleness the
justice.""

I requested permission to ask Owen for his own version,
which being readily gi'anted, the prisoner began : —

"It's clear, your honoui-s will remember ordering me to
catch a salmon, and go on before to the inn. Well, bum the
rise I'd get, your honour, till I came within half a mile of the
town ; there I sees as fair a rise at the nathural as ever my
eyes was blest with. Och ! be aisy, sis I — is it there you are,
and I wanting ye for my master's breakfast? With that, I
makes a clane cast, and covered the beauty to an inch. Up

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 281

he came — away went my winch, and I thought of my sowl heM
niver done running till my line was smashed. Into the river
I pitches my rod — away run the fish, and away run I — and,
faith, rd enough to do to keep up, any way, for the stones and
the bogs bothered my speed intirely. At last he stops ; oh !
sis I, it's my turn now, and with that I goes up towards my
rod ; off boults the fish to the other side the stream. There
was nothing but a swimming or a ducking for it, and, to
keep all clane and go dacent into the town like, I pulls off
my bits of things, and swims over the river to the place where
the wild brute had carried my rod. The divil a bit he stand
a minute. Off went the salmon again ; and it was then I had
a run for it after the river, so, seeing my rod going doubts
tide, and, finding the road alongside the river far best for
running, to the road I went; and it's a pity your honours
weren't there to see the sport — run salmon, run I, for a good
half mile — there I caught my rod; and it's a good to the
heart to see the way he played. But I soon landed my fish,
and what do your honours think ? In a fine country like this,
a lot of spalpeens, without with your leave, or by your leave,
or any politeness at all, seizes hould of me, crams an ould
frieze or two over me, and brings me to be put to prison. ' Oh ! '-
sis I, ' but I'm a free-born Irishman,' sis I ; ' and there are two
rale gintlemen that'll see me righted,' sis I ; ' and what have I
done?' sis I. — 'Done.?' sis they; 'haven't ye been running
stark naked among the people, and them women ? ' sis they. —
' The divil a woman or man,' sis I, ' did I see at all at all ' ;
and if your nobleness and honour will give me the book, I'll
swear the same on my Bible oath this moment. What do
they tell his honour, but that there were lots of women coming
to market, and his honour believes 'em, maybe because I am
a Catholic. I saw nobody all the time but the rod, and that
was running swately."

I assured the magistrate of my entire conviction that Owen
was innocent of any intentional wrong ; and such was, I believe.

282 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

the ardour with which he pursued the sport, that I did not
doubt his declaration that he had seen nobody.

The magistrate was pleased to find that the affair was of
no further consequence, and ordered Owen to be discharged,
assuring him, however, that his being a Catholic had had
nothing whatever to do with his detention or discharge, and
in this declaration I joined ; but the major, seizing the hand
of Owen, and in the presence of the magistrate, declared his
entire approval of the fisherman's whole course of conduct ;
"and, for myself, Fd follow a salmon into the very palace
rather than lose him, any way. So, say nothing of being a
trifle deficient in the cut of your surtout."

The major was now about to wax wroth in approval of
Owen''s conduct ; and just as he was fumbling about for the card,

on which was neatly engraved "Major , — th regiment,"

I thrust my arm within his, bowed to the man of authority,
and we were at our inn before the gallant officer could determine
in what way the proper insult ought to be conveyed to a
magistrate. Owen was admitted to dine with us off the
salmon which had been the cause of all his distress and de-
gradation.

We were indeed weary, but had acquired in our peregrina-
tions a perfect knowledge of what will be reasonably expected
in a night up the mountains by the sportsman in Ireland.

CHAPTER XXII

A Curse against Preserves — Reasons for Condemning them — A Slap at
the Peers — Apology and Reconciliation — An Irish Tory — After-
Dinner Argument on Popular Education — Challenge — Preparations
for a Meeting — Satisfactory Arrangement — An Old Acquaintance —
The Spanish Legioner — His Last Trip — The Shipwreck — How to
qualify for Exciseman — Belfast — Manufactures at Belfast — Last
Evening in Ireland — Leave-taking.

" I'll hold any man a dozen that this country will never prosper.
I'll hold any wager, against any man, that, while all the rest
of old Ireland is prospering, this will be the county accursed.
What ! I that hold his Majesty's commission — who have con-
descended to receive pay quarterly of as bad a set as — but
never mind, it's a bad track we're in, and the sooner our
marching order is beat the better for all anglers."

" What, in the name of Fortune, is the matter, major ? "

" The matter ! a set of rent-driving maniacs, that live upon
gorse and subscriptions every spring "

" Of whom do you speak ? "

" Speak ! who should spake of or to 'em ^"

The major's countenance was swollen with indignation.
Owen's, who accompanied him into the room, was by no means
indicative of less, though ot more subdued anger.

" Of whom do you speak, major ? "

" Bring in the matarials — a good way to travel — Owen, some
whiskey; here, gulp down your passion as I do, and let the
horror of the place be eternal. Let 'em keep their bogs and

284 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

their porther colour rivers, and drink 'em ; it's all they have to
drink four-fifths of their time. Presarve ! oh, the divil presarve
^em, and keep all honest fishermen away from 'em. No wonder
their mountains bring nothing ; no wonder they call out starva-
tion, and are hurried by droves to the grave for want of the
food the miserable masters cannot furnish. Will you believe
that in this county here, in Mayo — we'd scorn it in the south —
the very renters of the weirs would scorn it — all is presarved,
and the deuce a fly you'll be allowed to cast ? Whiskey, Owen ;-
keep your temper, man."

Owen kept his temper, and swallowed the whiskey.

" It's not long since but the whole of these tracts were free
as air. The mountain eagle was not more unfettered than the
stranger, who, with a rod, made way by the lakes ; nay, it would
go further ; it would be odd, indeed, if the weary fisher did not
meet some of the hospitality for which our fathers were celebrated.
But now ! The matarials."

The major was soothing himself by pottle-deep potations.

"Now, every scanty possessor calls himself a manor lord,
assumes a royalty, issues an edict, and claims that for himself,
or rather for nobody — since he can neither fish himself, nor will
allow any other — which hitherto had been the only attraction
such desert wastes afforded. Presarve ! hadn't they better cry
royalty over the broad sea, and tell us that's presarved — or over
the air, and forbid us to breathe. Presarve ! Heaven's name !
what have they to presarve ? Can these petty bog princes tell
us that the fish are their property? do they score and name
them?"

" Your honour sarved him right," said Owen.

" Right ! and who would doubt it ! a spalpeen keeper.
Keeper! capital joke in the wilds of Connemara — up to your
ankles in bog — squash every minute — keeper — Capit — d — n such
keeping ! "

"^The major emptied the second tumbler.

I now found that, while I had been endeavouring to regain

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 285

some of the freshness which my night's bivouacking and
morning's walk had a Httle damaged, my two companions had
sallied forth to the lakes, and that, in the exercise of the gentle
craft, they had received a peremptory order to desist. The
major's astonishment little qualified him for reasonable explana-
tion, and he had therefore returned the intimation that the
lakes were a preserve, by a polite assurance that the messenger
should forthwith proceed to ascertain the exact depth of the
pool he was fishing ; and this would, in all human probability,
have been the destination of the hapless keeper, but that Owen
had stepped in between the threatening combatants.

Owen, indeed, had become the more immediate object of the
keeper's rage, and had sustained divers blows before the major's
heavy fist settled the affair, and gave, as I prognosticated, good
cause for proceedings at law against our party.

I represented to my companion that the consequences might
be serious ; but it was impossible to make him comprehend any
just reason why one man should not, on what he deemed a fair
provocation, inflict personal chastisement on another. The
pretence to preserve waters which had once been free to the
world, was such a provocation, and, had it been the master
instead of the man, I verily fear the major's want of personal
control had been the same.

" What ! " exclaimed he, " presarve in a country where the
least attraction held out to foreign visitors is indeed a chance of
its advantage? where every stranger more that visits it is so
much added to the general wealth, and deducted from that
amount which is sent to the absentees ? Yet, in such a country,
for a small-souled, petty proprietor to assume the dictatorial air
which nothing but park walls ought to justify ! yet whose park
walls, if they should ever arrive at such a pitch of eastern
magnificence, would be made of turf soaked in bog water, with
here and there a block of granite for a gate.

"Thousands of fish come up and descend these rivers and
lakes ; they are destroyed by the otter and the wild bird. Not

286 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

a hut offers the common shelter of a civilised country near the
banks of the morasses that enclose them. What preservation
is necessary under such circumstances ? Summon the whole
population of the district, and their collected wealth would
supply nothing beyond a hazel rod and a coarsely spun fly.
Who, then, are the strangers against whom such particular
orders should be issued ? those only who bring civilisation, and,
in some instances, wealth with them : civilisation, I say, because
their intercourse with so rude and barbarous a people as this,
is calculated to soften the manners, and, perhaps, make other
countries known to them. If / were a proprietor, not only
should all strangers have full permission to amuse themselves,
but I would stretch forth the hand of hospitality to encourage
their visits.

"Anglers are never dangerous men. Show me a man
devoted to the art, and I will show you a person whose feelings
are well attuned to the exercise of the kindlier intercourse of
friendship and affection. There would be no danger in showing
hospitality to the angler.

" Where is now the hospitality of bygone days, when honest
landlords held no peerage. What ! a peer ! The empty badge
of an enslaved wretch, who sold his birthright for such a mess of
pottage as an Irish peerage ! A livery servant is the meanest
and most contemptible of men ; I hate the yellow and gold with
which their monkey manhood is bedaubed: he is the walking
monument of his own baseness and his master's pride. There is
but one step lower in humanity : it is the peerage obtained by
the hireling villain who betrayed his country's independence for
so paltry and ignoble a bribe.

"Look at them. Who, what are the Pitt Union peers.?
Exiles — their domains in the hands of the receivers of the courts ;
or, if at home, the despised abettors of their country's ruin.
That's a peer — an Irish peer — a Pitt Union Irish peer ! Send
for some gold lace, in God's name, tie it round his hat, and let
him stand behind the chairs of honest men. That will be one

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 287

step at least for their character. That's my opinion of the
peerage ; but I think less of the petty shades of shadows who .
call themselves proprietors.""

The major had run himself out, and fortunately at that
moment the servant presented a card. I foresaw the difficulty
we were in, and entreated my companion to allow me to deal
with the new-comer, promising most fervently to do nothing
which should compromise the major''s reputation of courage and
dignity. On his retirement, therefore, I desired the stranger to
be shown in.

He was a young man, of a somewhat military appearance,
and presented himself with the utmost civility. I was the first
to remark that I believed I could anticipate what was the cause
to which I was indebted for the honour of his visit.

There had been, he feared, some misunderstanding on all
sides. Nothing could be further from his intention than offering
any obstruction to the fair angler, and his servant had mistaken
his instructions ; but one of our party could not, he thought, be
excused in inflicting violence on the poor man, who was, in fact,
doing no more than he conceived his instructions had directed.

The awkwardness of my situation was apparent ; therefore I
proceeded to acknowledge that the abstract assault was not to be
justified, and that I should be most happy to offer to the keeper
the reasonable recompense he should demand, and to present to
my visitor the apology I thought was due to him.

Just as I had completed these arrangements satisfactorily,
the major burst into the room, impatient to be made acquainted
with the subject of our discussion. I introduced him, and the
result was that both the belligerent parties were perfectly

satisfied : Mr. S assuring the major that he was most

welcome to all the angling he could find, under the fullest
impression that I had used his authority in the apology I had
presented ; and the major accepting most graciously the per-
mission thus given as a full apology for the obstruction he had
met with.

288 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

It was not my business to undeceive either, both being
perfectly satisfied with the conduct of each other ; and, indeed,
so pleased were the parties, that a warm and pressing invitation
to dinner was on the spot given and accepted.

I congratulated myself on my skill at diplomacy, in having
made two persons friends, who might have been very dangerous

in hostility. Mr. S took his leave, and in a few minutes,

Paddy, the keeper, was in attendance, ready to show our honours
the best pools. I slipped a sovereign into his hand, and left
him to stare at the wondrous luck which St. Patrick had brought
him by means of a broken head, a matter he at no time would
have felt as a great misfortune, and one that now, with its
present concomitant, he would have been too happy to receive
daily.

Our host''s preparations were of the usual abundant order.
His cottage was on the banks of the lake, which he had so
carefully preserved, and presented a pretty sporting-box. The
interior was indeed well supplied with all the means of rendering
a secluded life agreeable. I must observe also that the prepara-
tions for the repast, to which we were invited, were of more
than ordinary elegance; although the attendance was to be
supplied by bare-footed trotters over the bog.

The numerous assembly in the kitchen betokened a rout for
the dependants, one running in the way of the other, with the
accustomed and " most admired disorder."

Our reception was cordial. Our host, himself an Irishman,
possessed, I believe, of a patrimony more ancient and respectable
than extensive, had figured in the records of hospitality ; and
in the course of a few years had managed to dispossess himself
of an inheritance of considerable value. He had at last thrown
open his house for a year to all comers, determined to place an
honourable seal to the desultory extravagance, which was slowly
but surely impoverishing his means. The end of the year
brought the end of the rental ; and his retirement to the lovely
spot, which formed an island on the lake, was adopted with the

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 289

view of recovering by seclusion the lost revenue. But even here
his liberal habits pursued him ; and though he was strict in the
preservation of the fishing and shooting of the domain he
rented, he was always ready to grant permission to any respect-
able applicants.

He was a Tory, — not of the vacillating and unsettled order,
who sometimes rejoice in one name, and then eschew it for
another, but a well-founded, honest, and intolerant Tory, — one
who, with " Sir Charles '"* of honest notoriety, never could compre-
hend what the rights of the people could mean. He understood
the privileges of the order, and the enjoyment of patronage ; he
knew also the full meaning of the supplies when properly
appointed and distributed. But what the newspapers meant
by the people and their rights, he could never be made to com-
prehend ; and the difficulty he had found, while endeavouring
to become enlightened on this point, had at last terminated in
the very laudable resolution, should he ever arrive at the post
of prime minister, of shooting down the masses like dogs.

There was not much to hope from the major's prudence,
when Mr. S and his friend, well mustachoed, and both hav-
ing the honour to hold Her Majesty's commission, bowed to each
other in the dining-room. But the dinner treated not of war
— the punch had commenced its inspiration, I congratulated
myself on all being safe, and passed off, with some adroitness,
the observation of my host, that the pest of the country was
the Catholic religion, but that the worst of it was that all

the people were Catholics, which Mr. S could by no means

account for.

I replied, sotto voce, that it was very odd, and challenged
my friend opposite to a tumbler. It was of no use ; the word,
the fatal word had caught the major's ear, and at the sudden
gurgling which denoted the descent of at least a full pint, I was
alarmed by the consciousness that the magic word had been
effectual.

" It's a Catholic country we're in, sir," said the major.

u

290 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

" And a good country too,*" said I complacently.

" Good country ! — I should like to see the one that's better,
and I wouldn't lave this for it."

" The country is a fine country," said our host, " but it is
ruined by the religion which seems to overrun it. Look at
England! there the parsons are knowable people — men that
decent persons may speak to — they are not always stirring up
the poverty of the labouring classes to make them dissatisfied.
What is the case here.? every rascally vagabond is hand and
glove with the priest; the priest instructs and directs him.
What has the priest to do with instruction ? people that have
to work should work, and let education alone. It must end in
the ruin of any country to be always teaching the people ; they
are too knowing already."

The major never argued well ; it was by no means his forte.
When he did express himself with a view to implanting convic-
tion in the mind of another, it was done rather manually than
logically, and the force of his position was rather established
by the concussion of the fist and table than by any formula of
verbal ratiocination.

" And why by St. Patrick shouldn't the people be instructed
by their priests, since they can get no instruction elsewhere ? "

The major made a pause; his fist was gathered up for the
grand climax of the position he was about to establish, which
waited only the reply of his opponent.

"That's the question I ask?" added the major with
impatience.

Who could answer this question.? It was unfair in the
major to put it. The best reason I ever heard, even at a Tory
parson dinner, or a public speechifaction, against the mischiefs
of educating the people, was that they might, when servants,
read their master's letters ; and I believe it is on record, that
one of our most talented early bishops recommended as the safe-
guard of the empire, the careful preservation of ignorance
among the people, though he himself was, at that time, a

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 291

*' marksman.'" It was an unfair question, and there was no
answer to it ; but the friend with moustaches declared that it
was very unpleasant to have fellows who ought to be digging
affecting to know anything of books.

" I'd hang every priest," said our host, " that presumed to
teach a letter to a peasant."

" And so would I," said the military friend.

The fist was ready, and down it went ; the glasses rang a
long and inharmonious peal.

" And the devil a priest you'd either of ye hurt, while I had
an arm to defend him ! "

This was plump in the major.

" You would hardly prevent me," said our host.

"Twenty of ye !" said the major; he was determined.

"Sir," said our host, with every indication of suppressed
wrath, " after the apology you this morning made to me, I had
not expected to meet such rudeness."

" Apology ! — faith and if it had not been for the very proper
one you presented me with, the devil a dinner I would have
shared with you, here or anywhere ! "

" Apology ! "

" Apology ! " re-echoed the major.

I was in the exact dilemma I had been fearing. It was
useless to explain; neither would give up the conviction of
having received and not given an apology to the other.

The grievances therefore were re-stated; the broken head
of the keeper was again declaimed on ; while the villainy of any
man, in a free country, daring to prevent fishing on the open lake,
met all the condemnation my friend's vocabulary could furnish.

The confusion of tongues was overwhelming — matter ex-
planatory, condemnatory, and contradictory. It was hopeless
to interfere ; so the major took the last gulp at his tumbler of
punch, proceeded towards the door, bowed with affected calm-
ness, and assured Mr. S he should hear from him in the

morning.

292 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

I bowed myself out also, resolved to attempt no explana-
tion then, but fully impressed with the hope that I should
effectually remove all the animosities of the parties in the
morning.

I was deceived; with the morning came my friend in the
moustaches, who claimed precedence in the message to tTie
major. I assured him that I was perfectly prepared to make
all reasonable allowances, if he were similarly disposed. To
this I received so imperative a denial, that I became satisfied
that nothing but the meeting was intended.

Nothing could equal the suavity of the lieutenant entrusted
with this embassy, after he had obtained my appointment that
we should be ready on the side of the lake in one hour from
that time.

The major was stumping up and down his room, with his
hands thrust into the very bottom of his pockets. He hardly
perceived that I had entered; but my eye fell instantly on
certain preparations, which were obviously made in contempla-
tion of the probable result of the evening''s conversation. On
one table a pair of old horse-pistols newly rubbed up ; the balls
carefully deposited in an old horn, and the ramrod ready for
the charge. On the other side were papers containing curious
scratches, or marks which the major had deluded himself into a
conviction that he had written.

" I am sorry,*" I observed, " to be compelled to say *"

" I**m ready, my boy — all right ! It's myself will larrup the
lot of 'em. But, there is one thing — if I should fall "

" Entrust all to me, our time is short."

" Why, it's a grievous thing to have a boy's random shot
through one's liver."

"Whatever be the event of the day," said I, taking the
veteran's hand, " be certain that there are no instructions you
may give me that will not to the letter be obeyed. If there be
anything near your heart, I entreat you now to disclose it —
perhaps family affairs."

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 293

"I have been upwards of fifty years bandied about this
bothering world, and the divil a family affair I ever had.""

" No relation to whom I could convey your last wishes ? ""

The major snapped his fingers, and assured me he valued
not that simple evolution any living relation.

Still there was something which oppressed him. It was
impossible not to observe, from his anxious eye and occasional
changes of countenance, that some regret weighed on him. I
pressed him to disclose it, and for some time ineffectually ; nor
was it till I had made all the necessary preparations for de-
parture to the rendezvous, that he gave way to my importunity.

"You have pressed me to communicate my distress. I
have a deep and insurmountable distress; but you cannot
help me.*'''

" At least I can endeavour to alleviate it, if it should con-
cern others.*"

" Impossible ; my distress is this. I have served through
the Peninsular and American war, obtained my rank by work,
and never spent an idle week at home in fifteen years. I am
here reduced, and compelled to accept a paltry half-pay for my
services, which has never yet been raised even to the nominal
rank I hold. The sum is small, to be sure, and everything has
its comfort — the smallness of it is some comfort just now.
But the distress I feel that a rascally government should pocket
the amount at my death, gives me a determination to shoot
straight ; — so now, my boy, come on ! and we'll not be the last
on the ground."

This being the only regret, I no longer sought the major's
disclosures, but set forth, perfectly satisfied that no man was
ever better prepared to meet the worst as far as his worldly
affairs stood.

We reached the ground, and I must do my comrade the
justice to say that cooler or more imperturbable courage was
never displayed ; nor was it long till the proof was demanded.

A bow from our friend in the moustaches showed that we

294 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

were really met in earnest ; although I had great difficulty in
believing such trivial causes should produce an effect of so
serious a character to persons so lately in the enjoyment of
friendly and hilarious communication.

I stepped aside with the second of our late host, and again
demanded whether anything short of an apology would be satis-
factory. An abrupt negative closed that part of the converse.
I repeated, therefore, that if extremities must be resorted to,
we might well understand the cause of the quarrel.

" There's no difficulty or dispute on the cause,'' said the
lieutenant. " Your friend thought proper to break the head of
my friend's keeper. No apology is offered, and it is clear some
satisfaction must be had."

The belligerents took their ground. We had placed the
pistols in their hands, and were in the act of retiring, that the
proper signal might be given by the lieutenant.

" Hurush ! " cried twenty voices, issuing from twenty persons,
who in a moment jumped over the hedge : — " Hurush, and bind
and secure 'em ! Oh, it's a spalpeen's head that was broken,
any way ! "

Among the multitude, it was by no means difficult to dis-
tinguish the voices of Owen and the keeper.

" Oh, master dear," cried the latter, as he threw himself at

the knees of S with all the genuine ebullition of feeling

which is always the characteristic of an Irish servant : — " Oh,
bad luck to Paddy Brady's head ! — and that's my own — it's a
whole head, any way. And, if it isn't, it's myself and Paddy
Owen will fight it out. Long life to your honours, and we are
the boys for a shindy ! "

" Come along, Paddy Brady," cried Owen, as he seized the
major's arms, with a full determination to allow of no combat
in which he took no part.

The anxious sincerity of the poor fellow who had been the
innocent cause of all the mischief, and the cool determination
of Owen, were irresistibly droll. I met the eye of the lieutenant,

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 295

who could no longer refrain from a smile. I gave way to a
bm^t of laughter, while Paddy Brady descanted on the fact in
language far too rapid for the best reporter to follow; the
upshot of his dissertation being that his head had been most
satisfactorily mended by a sovereign; while he heaped very
profuse ill luck on his own destiny that had induced him to
complain of a "thrifle of a crack, which was nothing to an
Irishman at a patheern."

I looked at the lieutenant.

" Why, if the man is satisfied, I don't see that it is absolutely
impossible to arrange," said he, confidentially.

" Enough ! " I held forth my hand — it was frankly taken :

the major and S bowed to each other at our intimation,

and the affair terminated without the " apology."

A council of piscatorial war was summoned on the succeeding
morning. We had found disasters enough in Connemara, and
some of our escapes had not been without interest. The major's
grand intention of visiting Ballina was much weakened by the
specimen we had already found of preserving; and the full
knowledge that one might as well be in Scotland (where the
salmon are marked every succeeding day, and regularly trained
to consider themselves no longer as choses in action, but as so
many tenants already reduced into absolute possession) as in a
country where the broad lakes are preserved, induced the major
to forego his purpose of further prosecuting the tour of discovery
into this unsocial tract.

On making inquiries for some mode of conveyance, I en-
countered a person of whom I had some, but an indistinct,
remembrance. He was attired in respectable black, strutted
with a military air, and smiled as he addressed me with all the
ease of an old acquaintance.

" Is it your honour I see at last, and well and hearty ? Faith
and it does meself good to find you still in Ireland ; and, above
all, in the splendid country of Connemara. What shall I do
for your honour .? " '

296 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

It was my old friend of the steamboat. I had fiiUy recalled
his features and manner before his address was complete.

" Faith and ye have good right to inquire by what manes I
have turned gentleman at last ! But it's cold talking in the
streets of Castlebar. The wind cuts down the streets like a razor
sent to shave off every rascally vagabond not well clothed, as
all proper and respectable people should be. Why don''t the
people put on proper clothing for the weather, and accommodate
their diet to their necessity ? It is a difficulty not to be got
over or explained. But if your honour will accept the comfort
of the Black Lion here, I shall be overplased at the opportunity
of thanking you for a past piece of friendship that I owe your
honour for. The whiskey is capital.*"

I was so far interested in my early Irish friend that I readily
complied with his wish, and was soon supplied with the " clanest
throp imaginable.""

My inquiries were soon made. The obvious change in the
circumstances of the Spanish Legioner formed the first matter
of question.

" It's the fault of the Irish themselves,"" said he, " that they
don't do well in a country where the wealth only requires to be
looked after. What did I get but starvation for my trip.?
WTiat do I get by staying in my native country ? Sir, it's
meself that you see is appointed exciseman to a large district ;
and, by my soul, I mane to take good care of the duties."

" Appointed exciseman ! " I exclaimed — " why, the last time
I had the pleasure of seeing you, it seemed rather your business
to avoid any particular intimacy with the officers of the revenue."

" Whisht ! you are an Englishman, and a kind one. By St.
Patrick ! I may trust you well enough. You have a right to my
history, because you may tache your children the way to achieve
an excisemanship in Ireland. When I left you at the Valencia,
the divil a rap I could muster. We went to sea that night with
as pretty a cargo of tobacco as you would need to be happy with
for a year. It was all carefully stowed when we saw you at

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 297

Cromwell Fort. It was soon got on board, and, before daybreak,
buried on the shoals at the mouth of the Shannon. We had a
night of it, you'll be sure ; but our well-trimmed Kinsale boat
mounted like a bird, and weathered the lights bravely. At

we were again shipwrecked fishermen, and soon sold all

the tobacco that was waiting only for our sending. By that
gale of wind, which lasted two days, we cleared enough for a
month's fine weather. This was a fine living, and I was delighted
with the change in my condition. Not a gun fired at us, and
abundance of whiskey, with a good bed, to be paid for hand-
somely. No straw dungeon or spokesmanship — both which I
thoroughly despise — as also the honour of serving any imperial
and Christian majesties who never pay but in stripes.

" While musing on the chance of the next trip, one of my
comrades communicated that there was a chance, if it was well
done, of our getting a good order ; but secrecy was the word.
I was the boy for a secret, so I betook myself to a big house, to
which I had been directed, and was shown into a fine library by
a lace-coated footman. Faith and I thought my fortune was
come at last. 'Oh! oh!' cried I — 'if one could but get
domiciled in such a place as this, the devil a storm I'd again
venture ! ' But there was no such luck for me at that time, so I
bowed my best, and I had learned the bowing well in Spain, and
began to converse with myself just as the door opened, and a
little bald-headed gentleman, with a pigtail, entered. He shut
the door in a perfectly distinguished manner, and motioned me
to a chair. To be sure, I was hardly qualified to sit in the
company of the likes — but there I sat, on a morocco chair, with
the little bald-headed gentleman opposite, for all the world as
though we were two privy councillors and the immortal Dan
rading them a lecture.

" ' You belong,' says the gentleman — ^who first helped me to
a glass of real good whiskey — ' you belong to the Kinsale boat ? '

" ' Faith, and it's myself, your honour, that has weathered
the storm in her that has been blowing all the ships off the seas.'

298 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

" ' I know it — you landed your tobacco last night.'

" ' Oh, murther ! ' says I. ' I'm transported now, at any rate
— here's a blow I'll never recover.' But, then, thinks I, 'tis odd
before he sends me to gaol, that he should fill me with whiskey.

" ' You needn't be alarmed.'

" ' Not in the laste, your honour — sure when your honour's
worshipful self says we landed the tobacco last night, it isn't me
that says it — and so there's no splitting any way — and it
wouldn't be manners to contradict your honour.'

"'Well,' says he, 'I know your crew well, and intend to
employ you.'

" ' Oh,' says I, ' it's all along of the good character we've got
among the poor people.'

" ' Yes, yes — I know the character you have — ^it blows now
from the south-west — there will be a gale towards the morning.
Do you dare venture out ? '

" ' Venture ! faith we'll venture anywhere.'

"'I thought as much. About eighteen miles from the
Head, you will discover a schooner, either this or to-morrow
night. She will deliver to you some packages, which you must
manage in the night to get on board your own vessel, and then
run her up high and dry near the sand beach, between the
Heads. That's all you have to do. But there is one thing
more — if you should be discovered, you must never give any
name. I'll manage, if you are silent, to see you safe through all
difficulty, and will get any penalty mitigated, and furnish you
with the means to pay it ; so you must be secret, and hold out
to the last.'

"Hereupon, I assured him that there was not the least
danger of our breaking faith, while it was so clearly our interest
to keep it, and with one tumbler more we parted, the little
gentleman himself seeing me safe to the door.

" Having got our little vessel repaired, and duly stored with
all variety of provisions, consisting of potatoes and red herrings,
we beat out to seaward, with a stiff breeze blowing dead in.

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 299

We comforted ourselves with the remembrance that we could be
shipwrecked at any time, and at any part of the coast we
should please to take a fancy to, and when the wrecking came
about, we could not be very far from the shore. Indeed, we
could run her up high and dry, if there was anything like
a surf.

" All that night wejished very carefully in forty-five fathoms
water, and about eighteen miles from the Head. The bait was
not particular, as it consisted only of a line and hook, and some-
how the cod-fish took no particular fancy to it. So, that with
the exception of the red herrings, we were not overburdened
with the Friday's banqueting.

" All that night we had the pleasure of being alone, and the
next we were visited by the revenue cutter, towards which we
made, and very manfully solicited some prog. This we knew to
be the best way of getting rid of her ; for, if a boat at any time
begs provisions of Her Majesty's cutter, or shows any symptoms
of the crew being in distress, it is ordained, I suppose, by the
government that the helm should be forthwith put up. This
was the case on the night in question ; for the crew on board
Her Majesty's craft are kind-hearted creatures, and hate to see
poor boatmen in distress !

" Not three hours after the cutter had parted company, we
descried a sail. It was a schooner, bearing down upon us with
all sail set. As she passed under our stern, she put her helm
hard a-lee, and sprang up alongside of us in very seamanlike
style. A rope was immediately thrown on board of our boat,
and, though there was a roughish sea running at the time, we
were dead alongside. There was nothing said — in fact, the
people could say nothing but French, and that is the same as
saying nothing : — ' So, on with the packages ! ' cries I — and one
after another — I thought they'd never end, about three hundred
very nice white deal boxes, neatly screwed down, and directed to
nobody. We shifted all the ballast, which consisted of sand,
put the packages carefully at the bottom, and covered them

300 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

well over. The schooner cast off, hauled close to the wind, and
was soon out of sight.

" ' What the devil will we do ? ' says I to my two comrades
in the boat. ' Ifs morally impossible to be shipwrecked such a
night as this. We can''t reasonably be drowned with a fine
beating breeze."*

" ' It would be a scandal and a shame to us ; for the coast-
guard boat would be sure to come to our assistance in such a
night if we were in distress.'

" So on we went, fishing with empty hooks, till in the morn-
ing the cutter again appeared in sight. We cracked on all sail,
and endeavoured to pass under her stem. The crew knew we
were come begging, so they put up their helm, and walked away
from us in the most easy manner imaginable.

" ' Ifs a thought of my own,' says I ; ' if you don't agree to
it, don't ! but I should like to see, just for curiosity, what the
deuce can be in those pretty boxes.'

" ' Quite proper,' said both my crew; 'we ought to know the
cargo we've got, for fear of offending the law in ignorance.'

"'Nothing more sensible ever observed — I know the law,'
says I — ' magistrates' law — and they say that we have no right
to do the things that's illegal, although we don't know it.
Therefore we are bound to know it ; so haul the foresheet to
windward, and put the helm fast down — she'll ride like a duck,
while we obtain the proper information.'

" To this both agreed ; and we were not long in getting up
a case, or in smashing it. Of all the long-necked bottles it was
ever my good fortune to see whiskey in, these were the longest.
Off they went — phiz ! — one after another, all froth and bubba-
booism.

" ' Capital whiskey,' says Pathrick, my comrade.

"'Glorious,' says I; and a bottle never gave a wry face.
Oh ! it would have done the hearts of the cutter's crew good to
have seen how comfortable we were — helm up — dead in upon
the land — pipes lighted, and a smart breeze. This was a ship-

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 301

wreck the likes I never before heard of ; and, I believe, a happier
crew never approached the lee-shore with the certainty of running
on it. It was dead dark. Just as we were debating on the
propriety of further making ourselves masters of the legal effect
of our cargo, smash went the boat's head against a range of
rocks. The force of the shock would have roused a dying or a
dead man — and it did rouse us ; but we could not get up — some
unaccountable influence held us at the bottom of the boat.
But, not knowing myself that the feeling was general, I took
the command at once, and gave orders that were unquestionably
of the best.

" ' Up and be doing, you spalpeens ! ' says I ; for nothing
assists soldiers or sailors, under your command, so much as
swearing at and calling them hard names. This I learned in
Her most Christian Majesty's most Christian army. And so I
began in the regular way. 'Up with ye, spalpeens, and the
devil give life to ye, for a set of short -pipe -smoking villains,
when the vessel's on the rocks ! Have ye no fear of death before
your eyes ? ' This last I said to terrify them.

"Pat Murphy only takes his pipe out of his mouth for a
moment. ' Git up yourself, and see how you like it,' says he.
' What d'ye bother about death ? sure we're only being ship-
wrecked, and what else would ye have us do ? ' says Pat. And
on he went smoking, as if he was in one of the smoky comfort-
able cabins ashore.

" With that a sea takes the boat in the stern, lifts her clane
over the reefs, and one more, catching her on the quarter, sent
her twenty yards up the sands, and broke right into her.

"'By St. Pathrick! this is drowning,' says I, 'and not ship-
wrecking at all.'

" ' Drowning ? ' says Pat Murphy ; ' the pipe's out, so now
for a rale move.' But he couldn't move when he tried.

" Another sea washed clane over us. ' Over the bows,' cried
I, as soon as the surf fell back, ' over the bows ! '

" It was slow work that same. I think I fell ten times in

302 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

getting forwards; and as to Pat Murphy and the boy, if I
hadn't given them a shove, they would never have escaped the
boat at all. As it was, Pat fell upon his head in the soft sand,
and went up to his middle in it, just like a bed of mortar. The
boy and I pulled him out as well as we could. As soon as Pat
had wiped the sand from his mouth and eyes, he didn't thank
us for the trouble we took, but sent us, without the priest's
blessing, to the infernal regions for shipwrecking him in sand.

" ' More whiskey with the long necks,' cried Pat. ' More
whiskey,' cried I. 'Whiskey,' said the boy; and just upon
that our heads all turned round, and we couldn't, for the soul
of us, help the most audacious robbery that ever took place.
Twenty fellows, for all the world as if they knew we were
there, jumped on board the boat, handed out the cases, slung
them across each other's backs, and disappeared in a jiffey. Of
course I couldn't guess who they were, but I thought they
were very respectable thieves — they did their business so
cleverly.

" After all was gone, they popped us on hurdles, and carried
us off, I couldn't imagine where; and I didn't long try to
find out, for the effect of the sea water makes one drowsy, and
the motion of the wattle sent me fast asleep.

"That was our shipwreck. In the morning I woke, and
found myself in a comfortable bed, and a doctor and the little
old gentleman with the bald head and the pigtail standing
over me.

" ' Poor man,' says the doctor ; ' he may take refreshment
now if he likes.'

"'What will you take?' says the kind little gentleman,
wagging his pigtail.

" '^ Oh ! ' says I, ' I'm not particular — but a small drop of
the same clane whiskey out of the long necks.'

" Ah ! ' says my friend, ' I understand him ; a little broth
or gruel, doctor.'

" ' By all means,' says the doctor, and left me.

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 303

"A little whiskey was soon produced, and I never felt
better.

" ' You had a successful voyage ? "* says my friend.

" 'Capital — only we were robbed of all the cargo."*

" ' Yes, those robberies generally happen on these occasions.
You need not distress yourself about it. I am quite satisfied
with your exertions, and mean to provide for you. Now, what
comfortable little situation can I get for you ? '

"Comfortable situation, thought I. What if I ask for
a farm ?

" A farm wouldn't do ; it would be a great temptation to
me, as my kind friend assured me, and would certainly, if it
happened to be on the coast, lead me into trouble.

" * I am afraid,' said he, ' that when once these evil habits
of smuggling have been successful, nothing cures them but
one method. Your conduct, young man,' says he, with all
the feeling imaginable, ' has been very irregular, and you have
really, in the eye of the law, been criminal. There is danger
also of yourself, at some unhappy moment or other, accusing
yourself. I shall, therefore, take the only effectual means to
prevent that. You must be silent, for your own sake — and
you must cease to smuggle, as your business and profit shall
be to prevent it. I have now thoroughly tried your skill — of
which you must be silent, or instant dismissal would be the
consequence. I have it in my power, through great interest,
to recommend young, active, and talented men to the service
of the excise. You have all the qualifications which it was
my bounden duty to investigate before I sent any one for the
appointment. You are selected.'

" ' An exciseman ! ' exclaimed I — ' I am the happiest man
in existence.'

"I was soon rigged out — you see, sir, how improved my
exterior is since I had the honour of seeing you when dressed
in Her Majesty's most Christian ten pounds' worth. 1 have
money in hand, and am proceeding to the general office for

304 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

due instalment in my government duties. Sir, I am most
happy again to have met you. I am surprised only that you
have not made your fortime. Patronage, sir, is the thing in
Ireland. Any man that can get patronage is a made man ; but
patronage isn't got by going about in the straightforward way
that every poor man can go — that will never do — patronage
of the kind I enjoy, sir, is gained by real services — and I am
a made man ! ""

I heartily congratulated my companion on the change of
fortune which had befallen him ; and I could not help thinking,
as I reflected on the man's history and recalled his remarks on
the all-powerful influence of patronage, that in Ireland, as
elsewhere, the straightforward services of honesty and truth
do not always ensure it. It is but justice, however, to remark
that, in this instance, I thoroughly believe the government was
never served by a more dauntless and, excusing the errations
of his necessity, a more honest officer. I believe he is now in
the service.

The major had tried the lake again during my long absence,
and was little successful. His indignation had not cooled
against the inhabitants of a preserved country, and I could
perceive that Owen's spirits gradually declined as his lengthened
absence from his sick mother had increased his anxiety for
her safety! He had regularly made small remittances to her,
which had been kindly acknowledged by the priest to whom
they were addressed. It was resolved, therefore, that the
major and Owen should accompany me to Belfast, and there
take the Cork packet.

The next difficulty was the conveyance. A car, the only
alternative, was obtained — the pony having been long since
abandoned; and, by a forced march, we reached Galway in
time for the Tuam mail.

Our journey will be uninteresting, as we lingered nowhere,
and it is no part of my business to make any but a piscatory
road-book. My readers, therefore, ought not to be disappointed

THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND 306

if I proceed at once through the beaten track, without notice
of those particulars which do not appertain to the sports the
country affords. Misery, rags, and poverty, however, still met
the eye ; deformity and disease presented themselves at every
post ; and the pertinacious importunity with which their claims
were enforced constituted a severe impost on our loose change.
But this kind of begging, which is perfectly systematic, will
be found only in the more populous towns; wretchedness in
the country is more modest, and certainly less obtrusive.

Belfast is no longer Ireland. The proximity to the Scottish
shores is at once perceived ; there is a bustle and an activity
which declare a commercial enterprise, unknown in other Irish
cities. While Dublin is half untenanted, and while the pretence
to grandeur is mocked by the empty rows of houses and the
squalid poverty of its listless and idling population, in Belfast
every nook seems to boast its occupant, and every occupant
his employment.

Belfast is a new town, one of the present century, and speaks
in its prosperity a lesson which the Irish landlords do not
understand, nor can be taught. The manufactures of linen
and cotton goods have rendered the population of this district
prosperous and happy ; wages are fairly remunerating, and the
rent of land is much less than in the degraded districts through
which I had so lately passed. Other and more remunerating
employment, for an increased and increasing population, has
been found, than the mere cultiure of the land — the lowest of
all human employment — and the competition for the tenure
is consequently repressed.

The last evening in Ireland was passed amid real regrets ;
and, though the enlivening sallies of the major, and the
affectionate attachment of Owen, should have tended to create
cheerfulness, I felt that I was leaving a people and a country
which had become greatly endeared to me. To the sportsman
its freedom and wildness constitute attractions which the more
cultivated and prosperous countries present not. It is just to

X

306 THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND

say, that a more obliging and hospitable people will nowhere
be found.

The farewell of the major was sincerely responded to, as I
stepped into the Glasgow packet. The steam was roaring,
and the bustle of the coming passengers and luggage was
confounding. Amidst the din, however, which all this created,
I contrived to make an intelligible promise to visit the north
next summer.

Ireland, farewell ! Thy wildness and thy beauties have touched
me ; and, when I behold the aristocratic display which every-
where covers England, I cannot but exclaim, " I love the land
of mountain and of flood ! *"

THE END

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