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SPRINGFIELD,   MASS. 


HER  PICTURESQUE  BEAUTY 

AND 

COMMERCIAL  ENTERPRISE. 


COMPLIMENTS   OF 

THE    MASSASOIT    HOUSE 

W.   H.   CHAPIN,   PROPRIETOR. 


vj-Vs 


PRESS  OF 
SPRINGFIELD   PRINTING  AND   BINDING  CO. 


Copyright,  18S9, 
By  W.    H.    CHAPIN. 


I. 

INTRODUCTORY  AND   HISTORICAL 


Springfield,  with  its  eventful  history  of  253 
years,  its  exceptionally  picturesque  and  central 
location  upon  the  banks  of  the  Connecticut  river 
in  Western  Massachusetts,  and  the  assured  pros- 
pect of  still  greater  growth  and  commercial  im- 
portance, has  much  to  invite  the  attention  of  the 
tourist.  There  have  been  few  towns  in  the  com- 
monwealth of  Massachusetts  which  have  borne 
their  part  in  moulding  its  fortunes  with  greater 
integrity,  and  still  fewer  have  retained  so  much  of 
the  staid  quality  of  the  New  England  town,  com- 
bined with  that  modern  enterprise  which  places 
America  at  the  head  of  the  commercial  world. 

The  men  destined  to  become  the  founders  of 
Springfield  were  drawn  to  the  Connecticut  valley  by 
glowing  tales  of  its  fertility  only  five  years  after  the 
founding  of  Boston.  William  Pynchon,  an  emi- 
grant from  Springfield,  Essexshire,  England,  and  a 
magistrate  vested  with  official  power  under  the 
Massachusetts  colonial  charter,  came  to  this  region, 
with  a  few  families  from  Roxbury,  in  the  spring  of 


1636,  There  is  an  indefinite  record  that  a  band  of 
explorers  a  year  before  had  given  good  assurance 
of  the  promise  of  the  place,  and  the  settlers  had  no 
apprehension  of  failure.  They  located  themselves 
on  the  west  side  of  the  river  and  named  the  little 
village  Agawam,  the  Indian  expression  for  meadow 
and  the  name  of  a  tribe  of  Indians  occupying  the 
region.  The  freshets  of  the  early  season  soon  con- 
vinced them  that  the  east  side  was  better  suited  for  a 
village  site.  Hither  they  came,  each  new  arrival 
receiving  an  allotment  of  the  land  which  now  com- 
poses the  business  portion  of  the  city  ;  the  rude 
and  scarcely  defined  street  which  these  early  pio- 
neers opened  is  now  the  Main  street  of  Springfield. 
At  first  the  new  village  was  under  the  jurisdic- 
tion of  Connecticut,  but  the  inhabitants  soon  with- 
drew from  the  "Hartford  government"  and  the 
place  was  recognized  as  a  Massachusetts  town.  In 
1641  the  inhabitants,  in  town  meeting  assembled, 
complimented  Mr.  Pynchon  by  giving  the  town  the 
name  of  his  English  home,  Springfield.  The  name 
of  Agawam  is  still  preserved  in  a  little  country  vil- 
lage across  the  Connecticut.  The  same  year,  "  the 
Great  and  General  Court"  recognized  the  town 
by  its  new  name  of  Springfield.  A  minister,  Rev. 
George  Moxon,  was  also  settled  on  a  salary  of  14 
pounds  sterling  and  the  work  of  making  the  little 


plantation  a  shiretown  and  finally  the  capital  of 
Western  Massachusetts  was  begun. 

Houses  had  been  built,  children  born,  and  outly- 
ing villages  established,  before  the  Indians  forsook 
their  friendly  tactics  for  war  ;  but  in  1675,  Philip, 
the  chief  of  the  Pokanokets,  incited  200  of  the 
Agawam  Indians  to  join  300  of  his  braves  in  an 
attack  upon  the  little  hamlet.  They  selected  the 
time  of  attack  when  the  English  soldiers,  who  were 
commanded  by  Major  John  Pynchon,  were  at  Had- 
ley.  The  inhabitants  took  refuge  in  three  fortified 
houses.  The  main  part  of  the  town  was  burned. 
The  slaughter  only  included  three  men  and  one 
woman.  This  was  the  first  local  war.  For  the  next 
seventy-five  years  there  were  occasional  frays  with 
the  savages,  but  comparatively  few  inhabitants  were 
killed. 

After  the  Revolution  the  village  had  another  taste 
of  war.  Daniel  Shays  and  many  discontented  fol- 
lowers, who  were  oppressed  with  heavy  debts,  pre- 
vented the  judges  in  several  counties  from  holding 
court  and  in  1787  they  attempted  to  seize  the  United 
States  arsenal  at  Springfield.  Col.  Shepard  of 
Westfield  with  a  small  company  of  soldiers  resisted 
the  attack,  and  after  a  few  shots  the  mob  was  scat- 
tered, thus  bringing  to  a  close  what  is  known  as  the 
Shays  Rebellion. 


The  United  States  arsenal  has  given  Springfield 
reputation.  It  had  its  origin  just  before  the  Revo- 
lution, received  the  sanction  of  Congress  in  1794 
and  a  gift  of  640  acres  of  land  in  1798.  At  the  pres- 
ent time  it  is  the  principal  federal  station  for  the 
manufacture  of  arms,  has  received  many  liberal 
appropriations  from  Congress  for  the  building  of 
new  stocking  shops  and  other  structures,  and  under 
the  management  of  able  army  officers  and  mechanics 
has  attained  a  very  high  rank  of  usefulness. 

In  all  the  national  struggles,  from  the  Revolution 
down,  Springfield  soldiery  was  prompt  at  the  front 
and  a  liberal  quota  of  lives  was  sacrificed  in  the  de- 
fense of  the  nation.  Interest  was  heightened  early 
in  the  abolition  cause  by  the  presence  of  the  hero  of 
Harper's  Ferry,  John  Brown,  who  formed  clubs  of 
colored  men  and  made  the  agitation  here  more  in- 
tense than  in  most  places. 

The  incorporation  of  the  city  took  place  in  1852, 
when  the  population  was  about  12,000.  The  great- 
est growth  in  commercial  importance  has  taken 
place  since  that  time,  and  at  present  the  inhabitants 
number  about  43,000.  The  city's  career  has  fur- 
nished an  absorbing  theme  for  the  historian,  and  in 
May,  1886, — the  250th  anniversary  of  the  founding 
of  the  town, — its  story  was  creditably  rehearsed 
during  a  two-days'  celebration. 


II. 

PICTURESQUE  SPRINGFIELD. 


Summer  tourists  who  enter  New  England  from 
the  west,  going  to  the  Canadian  resorts,  the  White 
Mountains,  or  the  numerous  watering  places  along 
the  coast,  often  find  the  natural  beauties  of  Spring- 
field and  its  environment  of  sufficient  interest  to 
warrant  them  in  lingering  here  for  two  or  three 
days.  Such  visitors  find  Springfield  an  accessible 
center  of  many  places  of  historical  and  natural 
interest.  It  is  doubtful  if  there  is  another  city  in 
the  Union,  where  the  country  and  the  city  are  com- 
bined more  pleasantly.  A  rapid  walker  can  start 
from  Main  street,  and,  going  in  the  direction  of 
Agawam,  will  in  a  few  minutes  reach  a  point  where 
the  rural  element  is  found  so  complete  and  genuine 
that,  unless  he  raises  his  eyes  to  the  spires  and 
towers  of  the  city  across  the  Connecticut,  he  is  apt 
to  forget  that  he  has  just  left  a  city. 

Here  he  can  gain  the  best  impression  of  the  city's 
fine  location,  arising  from  the  east  bank  of  the  Con- 
necticut river.     The  city  rises  on  terraces,  formed  as 


8 

geologists  assert  by  the  river,  and  is  crowned  by  the 
broad  plateau  where  the  Armory  buildings  com- 
mand a  view  of  the  newest  portion  of  the  city, 
recently  called  "  The  Highlands."  The  absence  of 
the  rough  and  vulgar  element  in  the  people  the 
traveler  meets,  will  soon  suggest  to  him  the  purity 
of  the  city.  The  moral  quality  of  the  place  is  of 
an  unusually  high  grade,  compared  with  the  aver- 
age city  in  New  England.  This  is  the  spirit  of  the 
early  Puritan  pioneers,  which  has  descended  with 
the  generations,  and  has  been  sustained  by  the 
churches,  of  which  there  are  an  unusual  number. 
This  strengthens  the  appropriateness  of  the  name, 
''City  of  Homes,"  in  which  Springfield  has  de- 
lighted. 

The  United  States  Armory,  near  State  street, 
established  in  the  Revolutionary  epoch,  attracts  all 
visitors  to  Springfield,  for  the  interesting  work  of 
the  shops,  the  museum  of  curious  and  historical 
arms,  and,  above  all,  for  the  magnificent  panorama 
of  nature  to  be  seen  from  the  Armory  tower.  The 
city,  in  the  time  of  foliage,  is  almost  hidden  by  the 
trees,  from  which  emerge  the  church  spires  and  the 
towers  of  handsome  residences,  while  the  business 
streets  appear  prominent  in  the  clear  space  by  con- 
trast. Looking  beyond  the  immediate  surrounding, 
there  is  a  charming  view  of  the  broad  valley  ;  the 


prospect    is    world-famous,   and    has    been    aptly 
described  by  a  well-known  writer,  as  follows  : — 

Toward  the  north,  midst  the  interval  of  wooded  hills  and 
spreading  meadows,  with  the  Chicopee  river  flowing  through  and 
framed  by  the  graceful  outline  of  Mt.  Tom  and  the  Holyoke  range, 
are  the  manufacturing  chimneys,  towers  and  spires  of  Chicopee, 
Chicopee  Falls,  and  Holyoke,  the  fertile  bottom  lands  of  old 
Chicopee  street,  and  the  higher  plains  of  Ludlow.  Toward  the 
east  is  the  wide  expanse  of  champaign  country  through  which  the 
old  Bay  Path  highway  and  the  Boston  and  Albany  railroad  thread 
their  course  towards  Palmer,  with  the  Wilbraham  road  diverging  to 
the  "  Springfield  mountains "  on  the  right.  Toward  the  south, 
the  lovely  Pecousic  vale,  and  Pecousic  hill  merging  into  the  long 
stretches  of  the  Longmeadow  forest,  with  East  Longmeadow  on 
its  left,  and  on  its  right  the  old  village  of  the  "  long-medowe  " 
itself,  its  spacious  street  and  elevated  plateau  looking  down  upon 
the  fair  expanse  of  level  acres  whence  it  derives  its  name,  and 
along  which  glides  and  winds  and  gleams  the  bordering  river. 
The  westward  view  beyond  the  silver  stream  includes  the  green 
expanse  of  the  farther  meadows  belonging  to  West  Springfield  and 
Agawam ;  the  towering  elms  and  leafy  maples  under  which  nestle 
the  village  mansions  and  the  scattered  farm-houses ;  the  old 
sentinel  white  meeting-house  on  West  Springfield  hill :  the 
fresher  beauty  of  Mittineague  as  it  creeps  up  the  terraces  of  the 
fitful  Agawam;  and  the  magnificent  stretch  of  broken  interval 
that  vanishes  in  the  distant  horizon  of  the  Berkshire  hills. 

Springfield  is  well  supplied  with  pleasure  grounds 
for  the  health  and  enjoyment  of  its  people,  and  with 
monuments  and  statues.  The  grounds  and  other 
surroundings  of  the  United  States  Armory  are 
always  kept  in  fine  order.  The  cannon  and  senti- 
nels about  the  place  and  the  broad  stretches  of 
greensward   invite  a  stroll,   while  beyond  are   the 


shops,  to  the  interior  of  which  visitors  are  admitted 
on  application  for  pass.  The  museum  is  the  prize 
exhibit  here,  however.  It  has  a  complete  display 
of  weapons,  both  offensive  and  defensive,  and  of 
armor  covering  well-nigh  the  whole  history  of  the 
world's  warfare.  The  evolution  of  the  gun  down 
from  the  awkward  and  aimless  blunderbuss,  to  the 
perfected  and  certain  rifle  of  to-day  is  shown. 
Beside  these  things,  there  are  individual  pieces 
"  with  a  history,"  specimens  of  Gatling  guns  and 
many  other  curiosities  of  absorbing  interest. 

Only  a  few  years  ago  the  city  received  through 
the  generosity  of  Mr.  O.  H.  Greenleaf  a  tract  of 
land  at  the  southern  end  of  the  city,  remarkably 
well  adapted  by  nature  for  the  forming  of  a  hand- 
some public  pleasure  ground.  The  tract  contains 
95  acres  and  is  accessible  by  a  horse  car  at  some  cen- 
tral location  of  the  city,  requiring  a  short  walk  from 
the  terminus  to  bring  the  sight-seer  to  it.  This  gift 
under  the  hands  of  a  skilled  landscape  artist  has 
been  transformed  into  a  beautiful  retreat  with  slop- 
ing lands,  places  for  picnics,  glades  and  glens,  lakes 
and  streams,  and  a  labyrinthine  driveway,  which 
offers  a  constantly  changing  scene  as  one  ambles 
leisurely  through  its  mazes.  This  has  been  done 
without  the  destruction  of  the  natural  attractive- 
ness of    the  place,  and  it  is  rather  by  "bringing 


out "  nature  in  her  own  splendor,  than  by  attempt- 
ing artificial  beautification,  that  the  charm  of  this 
place  has  been  wrought.  The  city  government  is 
constantly  adding  to  the  park,— Forest  Park,  as  it  is 
known, — and  it  will  be  several  years  before  the 
entire  acreage  has  received  its  permanent  perfect- 
ing. 

Court  Square,  another  pleasure  ground,  just  aside 
from  Main  street,  has  been  recently  relaid  in  new 
turf,  curbing,  and  walks,  under  the  direction  and 
expense  of  the  city.  This  land  was  made  over  to 
the  city  in  182 1,  by  a  syndicate  of  liberal  and  far- 
sighted  men.  The  spot  is  not  only  in  the  business 
heart  of  the  city  but  is  on  the  land  first  given  out 
to  the  settlers  and  is  located  among  the  choicest  his- 
torical associations  of  the  city.  The  shade  trees 
and  elms  about  the  square  are  very  ancient,  and  one 
at  the  southeast  corner  of  the  square  casts  a  shadow 
on  the  site  of  the  old  tavern  on  Court  street,  where 
General  George  Washington  tasted  liquid  refresh- 
ments of  a  strong  flavor  while  on  his  way  between 
Cambridge  and  New  York. 

The  soldiers'  monument  located  on  Court  Square, 
given  by  Mr.  Gurdon  Bill,  was  a  proper  recognition 
of  the  city's  appreciation  for  the  heroism  of  her  citi- 
zens in  war.  The  statue  of  Miles  Morgan,  erected 
by  one  of  his  descendants  of  the  fifth  generation,  is 


12 

the  typical  figure  of  the  Puritan,  bearing  a  bell- 
mouthed  blunderbuss  over  his  shoulder.  It  was 
given  by  the  late  Henry  T.  Morgan  of  New  York 
city,  and  executed  by  J.  S.  Hartley.  Its  fidelity  to 
the  costume  and  manners  of  the  time,  and  its  beauty 
of  workmanship,  have  been  pronounced  upon  by 
art  critics  and  it  is  reckoned  as  one  of  the  finest 
works  of  a  skillful  sculptor.  The  Wesson  fountain, 
just  in  front  of  the  Square,  is  another  adornment 
worthy  of  notice,  given  by  Daniel  B.  Wesson,  in 
1884. 

Stearns  park,  a  tract  of  land  extending  from 
Worthington  to  Bridge  street,  was  given  to  the  city 
by  the  late  Charles  Stearns  thirty  years  ago  and  un- 
til recently  was  chiefly  notable  as  a  barrier  to  the 
spread  of  flames  in  the  great  fire  of  1875,  when  the 
loss  was  upwards  of  $400,000.  This  park  has  been 
favored  with  rich  gifts  of  late,  and  its  surroundings, 
it  is  believed,  with  the  assured  growth  of  the  city, 
will  be  worth}^  of  its  handsome  adornments.  Here 
the  statue  of  the  Puritan,  Deacon  Samuel  Chapin, 
an  early  settler,  attracts  all  lovers  of  fine  art.  It 
was  the  work  of  the  well-known  sculptor,  Augustus 
St.  Gaudens,  and  was  procured  at  great  expense  by 
the  late  Chester  W.  Chapin.  It  is  considered  by 
many  as  the  handsomest  statue  in  the  city  and 
makes  a  striking  feature  of  the  park,  as  it  represents 


13 

the  Puritan  on  his  way  to  church,  speeding  along  so 
rapidly  that  his  cloak  is  spread  out  to  the  breeze. 

There  are  many  other  parks  in  the  city  of  less 
importance,  but  not  so  closely  distributed  as  to 
make  them  the  less  useful  as  grateful  resting-places. 
Hampden  park  is  well  known  in  the  sporting  world; 
Springfield  has  the  good  fortune  to  belong  to  the 
Eastern  Trotting  Circuit,  and  "  racing  week "  is 
one  of  the  exciting  features  of  the  year  on  this  park. 
Beside  these  there  are  the  following  parks  :  City 
Hall  park,  in  the  rear  of  City  Hall  ;  Winchester 
park,  at  the  head  of  State  street,  named  for  the  late 
ex-Mayor  Charles  N.  Winchester ;  Kibbe  park,  at 
junction  of  Federal  and  Armory  streets,  given  by 
Horace  Kibbe  ;  Buckingham  park,  bounded  by 
Buckingham  place  and  Buckingham  and  Bay 
streets,  adorned  with  fountains  and  given  to  the 
city  by  John  D.  and  W.  H.  McKnight  ;  Gladwood 
park,  at  the  junction  of  Armory  road  with  North 
Main  street  ;  Hanover-street  park,  at  the  corner  of 
Elmwood  and  Hanover  streets  ;  Calhoun  park,  on 
Jefferson  avenue,  between  Sheldon  and  Montmo- 
renci  streets ;  North  Main  street  parks ;  Edge- 
wood,  a  forest  tract  of  loo  acres  bordering  on  the 
east  side  of  the  old  Bay  road,  and  made  accessible 
to  the  public  ;  and  Benton  park,  near  the  United 
States  Armory,  named  in  honor  of  the  late  Col.  J.  S. 


14 

Benton,  who  was  commandant  at  the  Armory  for 
fifteen  years  and  died  in  service. 

Springfield,  so  centrally  located  in  Western  Mas- 
sachusetts, invites  excursions  which  can  be  com- 
passed in  a  day.  The  historic  town  of  Deerfield, 
the  scene  of  the  famous  Indian  massacre,  is  a  tempt- 
ing jaunt  to  the  lover  of  nature  and  history  alike. 
The  old  Newgate  prison  at  Simsbury,  Ct.,  has  been 
the  Mecca  of  many  a  tally-ho  ride.  Indeed,  border- 
ing so  closely  upon  Connecticut  it  is  a  w^onder 
that  Springfield  w^as  so  fortunate  as  to  be  a  part  of 
the  grand  old  Commonw^ealth  of  Massachusetts. 
Lenox,  the  fashionable  Berkshire  watering-place, 
is  easily  reached,  and  the  Berkshire  hills,  and  Will- 
iams College,  at  Williamstown,  are  within  a  few 
hours'  ride  by  rail,  while  Amherst  College  is  nearer 
yet.  Smith  College,  at  Northampton,  is  only  i6 
miles  away. 

The  drives  within  a  radius  of  20  miles  of  Spring- 
field offer  a  variety  of  calm  rural  scenery.  Down 
the  Connecticut,  into  the  "Nutmeg  state,'^  the  land 
is  level,  rich  in  vegetation,  and  affords  a  constant 
panorama  of  charming  vignettes  of  river  scenes. 
Mounts  Tom  and  Holyoke,  up  the  river,  offer  an 
entirely  different  sort  of  picturesqueness.  Another 
jaunt  that  tempts  the  students  of  human  destiny, 
as   well   as  the   lovers  of   a  genuine  old-fashioned 


15 

spread,  is  a  visit  to  the  Shaker  families  at  Enfield, 
Ct.  They  always  receive  their  guests  with  open- 
handed  hospitality — for  a  consideration. 

Indeed,  one  can  hardly  exhaust  the  attractions  of 
Picturesque  Springfield  in  a  brief  sketch.  There 
are  many  picnic  groves,  fine  vantage  points  for  an 
expansive  view,  opportunities  for  boating  on  United 
States  Watershops  pond,  and  for  sailing  and  canoe- 
ing on  the  Connecticut. 


III. 

PUBLIC   INSTITUTIONS   AND 
STRUCTURES. 


Springfield's  quota  of  public  buildings,  for 
county  and  municipal  government,  her  churches, 
educational  and  charitable  institutions,  and  hand- 
some business  houses  have  been  greatly  admired. 
The  makers  of  her  architecture  have  been  masters 
of  their  art,  and  especially  famous  is  the  late  H.  H. 
Richardson,  who  when  a  poor  youth,  struggling 
against  great  odds  for  a  livelihood,  achieved  some 
of  his  earliest  and  best  work  in  this  city.  The 
buildings  he  constructed  trace  the  development  of 
his  individual  genius. 

Some  of  the  best  specimens  of  Mr.  Richardson's 
work  will  be  the  first  to  attract  the  notice  of  the 
stranger.  The  Hampden  County  Court-house,  a 
granite  building,  located  on  Elm  street, — an  unfort- 
unate spot  indeed  for  so  fine  an  edifice, — was  built 
in  1874,  at  a  cost  of  $300,000.  This  is  one  of  the 
latest  of  the  great  architect's  work  in  Springfield, 
and  is  constructed  after  the  modern  Italian  style, 


17 

from  granite  quarried  at  Monson,  a  neighboring 
village.  It  is  of  a  massive  and  compact  appearance, 
in  full  sympathy  with  its  use, — the  administration  of 
justice, — and  "  Lex  "  is  the  motto  graved  on  the 
entablature  beneath  its  eaves.  It  is  surmounted  by 
a  heavy  square  tower,  150  feet  high,  modeled  after 
that  of  the  Palazzo  Vecchio  at  Florence,  Italy. 

Three  churches  were  built  by  Richardson.  The 
church  of  the  Unity  on  State  street  was  one  of  his 
earliest  productions.  This  is  a  Gothic  structure, 
true  to  that  type  in  the  minutest  details  and  counted 
as  one  of  the  architectural  gems  of  the  common- 
wealth. It  was  erected  before  Mr.  Richardson's 
independent  ideas  had  asserted  themselves  in  his 
work.  The  South  Congregational  church  on  Maple 
street  bears  more  of  his  own  individuality.  It 
stands  as  a  rare  specimen  of  church  architecture, 
and  its  original  details  have  been  closely  studied  by 
many  of  Mr.  Richardson's  followers.  This  edifice, 
mainly  Romanesque  in  type,  followed  the  North 
Congregational  church,  which  was  of  Norman  style. 
It  is  of  freestone,  built  in  the  shape  of  a  cross,  with 
a  massive  tower  which  resembles  Trinity  church  of 
Boston,  Richardson's  greatest  work.  A  handsome 
dwelling,  one  of  the  gems  of  the  city,  corner  of 
School  and  Union  streets,  deserves  notice,  as  de- 
signed by  this  artist. 


i8 

Beside  these  churches  built  by  Mr.  Richardson, 
there  are  many  others  equally  as  costly  and  very 
handsome.  Among  these  are  Christ  (Protestant 
Episcopal)  church,  on  Chestnut  street.  The  fine 
building  with  the  Episcopal  parish  house  and  resi- 
dence adjoining  has  recently  gained  a  most  effective 
setting  by  the  sloping  Merrick  park,  the  latest  addi- 
tion to  the  city's  free  resorts,  corner  State  and 
Chestnut  streets.  Memorial  church,  at  the  "North 
End,"  is  one  of  the  most  liberal  in  thought  and 
unique  in  its  founding  of  all  religious  societies  in 
the  city.  It  reflects  the  character  of  the  late  J.  G. 
Holland,  who  was  one  of  the  founders.  There  are 
many  others,  Methodist,  Baptist  and  orthodox 
churches.  Hope  church  is  one  of  the  newest  of 
the  orthodox  creed  and  is  located  near  the  end  of 
State  street  on  the  hill. 

Under  the  guidance  of  Hope  church  has  grown 
the  School  for  Christian  Workers,  where  a  singular 
course  of  instruction  is  pursued.  Its  object  is  to 
train  men  for  an  evangelical  career,  and  the  stu- 
dents are  instructed  to  lead  meetings,  trained  in  the 
elements  of  science  and  above  all  in  physical  cult- 
ure. The  gymnasium  is  well  equipped,  and  its 
compulsory  use  is  one  of  the  paramount  features  of 
the  education  gained  there.  The  school  has  only 
been   open   a   few  years,  but  already  the  demands 


19 

on  its  space  are  more  than  it  can  fill.  It  has  gained 
a  wide  reputation  in  the  United  States,  and  its 
graduates  are  at  once  established  in  useful  posi- 
tions, with  good  salaries. 

One  of  the  most  useful  of  recent  enterprises  of 
philanthropy  has  been  the  building  of  the  new 
city  hospital  from  legacies,  and  private  and  muni- 
cipal benefactions.  Mrs.  Dorcas  Chapin,  widow  of 
Chester  W.  Chapin,  started  the  enterprise,  with  a 
bequest  of  $25,000,  which  was  followed  by  one  of 
$100,000  from  the  late  William  Merrick  ;  and  with 
$28,402  from  the  citizens  of  Springfield,  and  $5,000 
from  the  city,  and  what  has  been  gained  from  enter- 
tainments, the  sum  has  reached  $158,567.  The  hos- 
pital has  cost  $90,000,  which  leaves  a  comfortable 
endowment.  The  edifice  was  dedicated  in  May  of 
1889  and  was  a  memorable  social  event.  The  wards 
and  general  equipment  are  of  the  best  style  and  the 
walls  are  adorned  by  100  fine  pictures  given  by 
James  D.  Gill. 

Springfield  has  several  fine  school  buildings  and 
a  well  conducted  system  of  public  schools.  There 
are  also  several  private  institutions,  including  Miss 
Catherine  Howard's  family  boarding  school  ;  "  The 
Elms,"  Miss  Porter's  school  for  young  ladies  ;  and 
the  French  Protestant  college,  recently  moved  from 
Lowell,  Mass.,  and  installed  in  a  new  building  this 


June.  The  parochial  schools  are  under  the  direct 
supervision  of  the  Springfield  Roman  Catholic  dio- 
cese, which  has  its  seat  of  government  in  this  city. 
The  residence  of  the  bishop  and  the  Roman  Catho- 
lic cathedral  and  St.  Joseph's  convent  adjoin  the 
parochial  school,  corner  of  State  and  Elliott  streets. 

There  are  many  institutions  of  amusement,  and 
the  assurance  of  a  new  theater  to  be  built  on  Elm 
street  within  a  few  months  will  remedy  one  of  the 
few  weak  points  in  the  city's  completeness.  The 
principal  clubs  are  the  Springfield  Club,  an  institu- 
tion of  long  standing,  and  the  Winthrop  Club,  a 
younger  but  no  less  thriving  social  organization. 
Beside  there  is  a  well  equipped  tennis  club,  where 
some  of  the  most  expert  players  generally  appear 
annually,  and  a  branch  of  the  American  Canoe 
Association,  with  a  house  and  excellent  water  course 
at  Calla  Shasta,  on  the  Connecticut  river,  a  few 
miles  below  the  city. 

The  charitable  institutions  number  over  a  score, 
and  possess  endowments  that  reflect  the  character 
of  generous  citizens  who  have  passed  away.  Nota- 
ble among  these  are  the  Springfield  Home  for 
Friendless  Women  and  Children  ;  the  Union  Relief 
Association  ;  the  new  almshouse,  costing  over 
$60,000  ;  and  many  masonic,  military,  and  fraternal 
relief  associations,  and  similar  organizations. 


Springfield  owes  no  small  part  of  her  fame  abroad 
to  her  newspapers  and  periodicals,  which  have 
always  thrived  in  her  midst.  Many  have  been  estab- 
lished for  years,  have  outrun  their  usefulness,  and 
died,  but  at  the  present  time  the  city  is  well  supplied 
with  a  readable  and  complete  record  of  local  and 
foreign  events  by  the  competing  daily  newspapers. 
The  Springfield  Republican  stands  first  in  length  of 
service,  and,  moulded  into  a  leading  and  popular 
journal  by  the  second  Samuel  Bowles  and  still 
continued  by  his  son,  has  been  a  creditable  institu- 
tion to  the  city,  in  its  influence  for  good  abroad. 
The  Evening  Union,  the  leading  evening  journal, 
was  started  in  more  recent  years  and  has  estab- 
lished itself  in  the  homes  of  the  people.  The 
Daily  News  is  an  evening  penny  paper,  edited  by 
Charles  J.  Bellamy,  author  of  "The  Fall  of  the 
Breton  Mills  "  and  other  novels.  Among  the  other 
publications  are  the  Springfield  Homestead,  a 
weekly  journal  of  local  gossip ;  The  Farm  and 
Home,  published  by  the  Homestead  Company,  and 
the  Paper  World  and  Good  Housekeeping,  con- 
ducted by  Clark  W.  Bryan. 

Springfield  prides  herself  in  her  city  library, 
which  as  a  building  and  institution  justifies  the 
sentiment.  It  stands  on  one  of  the  finest  sites  in 
the  city  on  State  street,  is  built  of  brick  and  cost 


22 

$100,000.  Its  library  of  upwards  of  60,000  vol- 
umes is  patronized  in  a  way  that  is  creditable  to 
the  people,  and  there  are  beside  a  free  reading  room, 
museum,  and  portrait  gallery  of  the  citizens  who 
have  made  their  mark  on  Springfield's  record. 

Ground  was  broken  for  a  handsome  federal  build- 
ing for  the  post-office  and  the  use  of  government 
officials,  in  1888.  It  is  Romanesque  in  style  and 
will  be  numbered  as  one  of  the  handsomest  in  the 
city.  Its  location  is  only  a  few  minutes'  walk  from 
the  new  depot,  another  recent  addition  to  the  col- 
lection of  fine  structures.  Within  a  few  years  a 
new  jail,  modeled  after  the  most  approved  style  of 
the  day,  has  been  completed  at  a  cost  of  $100,000. 

The  Armory  buildings  are  of  a  plain  colonial 
type,  and  the  many  that  have  been  built  recently 
cling  to  the  style  of  the  early  days  of  the  century. 
The  Watershops  buildings,  where  the  forging  for  the 
product  of  the  United  States  Armory  is  done,  are 
located  some  distance  from  the  Armory  grounds, 
on  Mill  river,  and  are  an  interesting  place  to  the 
traveler. 


IV. 
SPRINGFIELD  AS  A  BUSINESS  CENTER. 


It  has  often  been  remarked  by  persons  who  have 
made  a  study  of  Springfield's  career,  that  her 
greatest  pride  has  been  her  industrial  success.  In 
her  earliest  days  she  had  an  exceptional  opportu- 
nity to  build  up  trade  and  manufacturing ;  there 
was  the  Connecticut  river  to  furnish  means  of 
transportation — the  best  in  those  days — and  Mill 
river  to  turn  the  wheels.  From  this  germ  the  city 
has  grown  to  be  one  of  the  most  thriving  manufact- 
uring towns  in  New  England. 

Her  location  among  a  cluster  of  busy  and  grow- 
ing towns  and  cities  made  her  the  industrial  capital 
of  Western  Massachusetts.  The  immense  popula- 
tion gathered  so  near  the  city,  readily  transported 
by  horse  and  steam  cars,  has  supported  extensive 
establishments  for  mercantile  trade,  retail  and 
wholesale. 

When  railroads  were  introduced  to  take  the 
place  of  the  steamer  traffic  on  the  Connecticut, 
Springfield  at  once  had  another  advantage,  for  she 
became    the    chief  point    of  this   region   along  the 


24 

line  of  the  new  Western  railroad.  This  distinction 
she  has  retained  up  to  the  present  time.  Beside 
these  roads  there  are  centering  at  Springfield  the 
New  York  and  New  England,  and  the  New  York,  , 
New  Haven  and  Hartford  roads.  The  prospective 
extension  of  the  Connecticut  Western  road  from 
Connecticut  to  the  Poughkeepsie  (N.  Y.)  bridge 
offers  an  outlet  to  a  rich  manufacturing  and  agri- 
cultural section  in  Northern  Connecticut.  New 
York  is  only  a  distance  of  136  miles,  and  Boston 
98  miles,  while  Albany  is  102  miles  away. 

Some  of  Springfield's  manufacturing  concerns 
are  worthy  of  note.  The  Wason  Car  Manufactur- 
ing Company  are  car-builders  of  world-wide  fame. 
Their  plant  at  Brightwood,  in  the  northern  part  of 
the  city,  is  the  largest  of  the  kind  in  New  England. 
Costly  passenger  coaches  have  been  made  by  this 
firm  during  its  career  of  over  twenty  years. 

The  Smith  &  AVesson  revolver  works  have  grown 
and  prospered  with  the  city  for  over  a  quarter  of  a 
century.  The  firm  was  founded  by  Horace  Smith 
and  Daniel  B.  Wesson  in  1857.  Mr.  Smith  retired 
many  years  ago  and  the  business  has  since  been  con- 
ducted by  the  Wessons.  The  firm  is  now  the  larg- 
est one  making  revolvers  in  the  world  and  the 
finished  product  is  of  the  most  superior  make. 
About  five  hundred  men  are  employed. 


25 

Other  local  industries  with  a  capital  of  over  $ioo,- 
ooo  each  are  as  follows  :  Papeterie  and  envelopes, 
capital  $1,070,000,  annual  production  of  $3,000,000  ; 
cigars,  capital  $250,000,  product  $600,000 ;  bicycles, 
capital  $100,000,  product  $250,000  ;  boilers,  capital 
$225,500,  product  $650,000  ;  boots  and  shoes,  capital 
$150,000,  product  $250,000  ;  brass  foundries,  capital 
$500,000,  product  $550,000  ;  breweries,  capital  $100,- 
000,  product  $1 10,000  ;  bricks,  capital  $200,000,  prod- 
uct $250,000  ;  buttons,  capital  $140,000,  product, 
$350,000  ;  calendars,  capital  $200,000,  product  $150,- 
000  ;  cars,  capital  $500,000,  product  $700,000  ;  car 
axles,  capital  $100,000,  product  $75,000  ;  confection- 
ery, capital  $200,000,  product  $100,000  ;  cotton 
waste,  capital  $250,000,  product  $750,000  ;  bakeries, 
capital  $150,000, product  $125,000  ;  doors, sashes,  and 
blinds,  capital  $125,000,  product  $175,000;  electric 
light,  capital  $150,000,  product  $60,000  ;  firearms, 
capital  $450,000,  product  $540,000  ;  gas,  capital 
$500,000,  product  $125,000;  gas  machines,  capital 
$150,000,  product  $100,000  ;  iron  founders,  capital 
$300,000,  product  $800,000 ;  knit  goods,  capital 
$280,000,  product  $450,000  ;  needles,  capital  $100,- 
000,  product  $110,000  ;  paint,  capital  $100,000,  prod- 
uct $200,000  ;  patent  car  boxes,  capital  $300,000, 
product  $250,000  ;  publishing  firms,  capital  $250,- 
000,    product    $500,000 ;    skates,    capital    $100,000, 


26 

product  $250,000  ;  stone  workers,  capital  $200,000, 
product  $250,000;  textile  fabrics,  capital  $115,000, 
product  $200,000;  wood  workers,  capital  $125,000, 
product  $250,000. 

The  Morgan  Envelope  Company  has  gained 
much  national  repute  for  its  government  contracts. 
There  are  important  button  works,  iron  works,  and 
lithographing  establishments.  The  Milton  Bradley 
Company,  by  its  many  games,  has  gained  a  name. 
In  recent  years  this  firm  has  taken  up  the  kinder- 
garten goods  and  has  manufactured  them  with 
great  success.  Its  production  is  one  of  the  largest 
on  this  side  of  the  ocean. 

The  publication  of  Webster's  unabridged  diction- 
ary, by  the  firm  of  G.  &  C.  Merriam,  is  another 
industry  that  has  been  for  years  an  established 
distinction  to  the  city.  The  same  house  publishes 
"Webster's  spelling  book,"  that  up  to  the  present 
time  has  a  strong  demand. 

Springfield's  banks  are  numerous  and  prosperous, 
and  the  clearing  house  record  has  excelled  that  of 
Worcester  and  New  Haven,  cities  of  twice  the 
population.  There  are  nine  national  banks  and 
three  successful  savings  banks.  Several  insurance 
companies,  reckoned  among  the  most  reliable  and 
sound  in  the  Commonwealth,  have  their  home  in 
Springfield. 


27 

A  brief  look  beyond  the  town  to  the  communities 
close  at  hand  reveals  one  cause  of  Springfield's 
commercial  prosperity.  Three  towns,  the  smallest 
having  over  ii,ooo  inhabitants,  are  closely  con- 
nected to  the  city  by  the  frequent  trains. 

Holyoke,  eight  miles  from  Springfield,  with  a 
population  of  over  30,000,  has  gained  the  name  of 
the  "Paper  City"  from  the  fact  that  she  manu- 
factures, doubtless,  the  bulk  of  the  writing  paper 
used  in  the  United  States.  The  tremendous  water 
power  at  Holyoke  was  not  measured  till  1847, 
when  it  was  found  to  be  equal  to  30,000  horse 
power.  Capitalists  willingly  invested  in  the  enter- 
prise of  building  a  dam,  and  the  first  company 
started  in  with  a  capital  of  $4,000,000.  Before 
much  was  done  the  leaders  in  this  company  with- 
drew, and  there  was  a  reorganization,  virtually 
forming  a  new  company,  with  the  same  capital. 
The  present  Holyoke  Water  Power  Company 
gained  possession  of  the  property  in  1859,  and 
began  with  the  comparatively  mt)dest  capital  of 
$350,000.  The  building  of  the  canals,  through 
which  the  power  is  distributed,  is  an  ingenious 
piece  of  engineering.  The  fall  of  each  level  is  not 
of  course  the  same  ;  all  are  of  sufficient  force  to 
move  heavy  mills,  and  to  make  a  busy  city,  and 
one    of   unusual  appearance  with  its    many  canals 


2$ 

and  bridges.  The  paper  mills  are  the  principal 
industry  and  a  list  is  given  below  :  Albion  Paper 
Company,  Beebe  &  Holbrook  Company,  Chemical 
Paper  Company,  Connecticut  River  Paper  Com- 
pany, Crocker  Manufacturing  Company,  Dickinson 
&  Clark  Paper  Company,  Excelsior  Paper  Com- 
pany, Franklin  Paper  Company,  George  R.  Dickin- 
son Paper  Company,  Hampden  Glazed  Paper  and 
Card  Company,  Holyoke  Paper  Company,  Massa- 
soit  Paper  Manufacturing  Company,  Newton  Paper 
Company,  Nonotuck  Paper  Company,  Parsons 
Paper  Company,  Parsons  Paper  Company  No.  2, 
Riverside  Paper  Company,  Syms  &  Dudley  Paper 
Company,  Valley  Paper  Company,  Wauregan  Paper 
Company,  Whiting  Paper  Company,  Winona  Paper 
Company,  and  Whitmore  Paper  Company.  There 
are  many  other  important  manufacturing  indus- 
tries, notably  the  Lyman  cotton  mills. 

Chicopee,  situated  between  Holyoke  and  Spring- 
field, has  a  population  of  11,528,  and  is  chiefly  given 
up  to  manufacturing,  also.  Northampton  completes 
the  list  of  cities.  She  has  12,896  and  differs  from 
the  other  two  in  many  respects.  She  has  less  com- 
mercial activity  and  more  of  the  intellectual  life. 
The  place  abounds  in  places  of  historical  interest, 
like  Springfield,  and  is  the  home  of  many  cultured 
and  literary  people.     It  is  the  seat  of  Smith  College 


29 

for  women,  which  was  chartered  in  187 1.  Among 
the  other  manufacturing  communities  in  the  vicin- 
ity are  Thompsonville  (Ct.),  Ludlow,  Pittsfield, 
Westfield,  and  Palmer. 

Springfield's  future  is  bound  to  be  as  progressive 
as  her  past.  The  number  of  new  blocks  that  have 
been  erected  on  Main  street  within  two  years  ex- 
hibits an  unusual  impetus,  and  the  demand  for 
houses  and  business  quarters  is  growing  louder 
every  year.  The  opening  of  the  proposed  Connec- 
ticut Western  railway  will  be  the  promise  of 
greater  business  for  the  city  and  will  give  greater 
facility  to  local  manufacturers  and  shippers. 


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