By EMMA PADDOCK TELFORD
ADAPTED TO THE NEEDS OF AMERICAN HOUSEWIVES
Now good digestion wait on appetite, and health on both,
Macbeth III, 4.
EMMA PADDOCK TELFORD
Household Editor of
The Delineator, New Ideas, and The Designer
CUPPLES & LEON COMPANY
COPYRIGHT, 1912, BY
CUPPLES & LEON COMPANY
':" "/::.'? J
I. FOREWORD AND INTRODUCTION ... 7
II. WHAT Is PAPER BAG COOKERY .... 9
III. GENERAL DIRECTIONS ..... 12
IV. TIME TABLE , ; 16
V. APPETIZERS AND RELISHES .... 18
VI. SOUP ACCESSORIES 23
VII. SHELL FISH 25
VIII. FISH SI
IX. FISH SAUCE 42
X. POULTRY AND GAME . . . . . 47
XI. BEEF 61
XII. LAMB AND MUTTON 67
XIII. PORK IN VARIED FORMS 70
XIV. VEAL 74
XV. SAUCES AND GRAVIES 78
XVI. RECOOKED DISHES 83
XVII. CHEESE AND EGG DISHES .... 87
XVIII. VEGETABLES 90
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
XIX. WARM BREADS, BISCUITS, MUFFINS, ETC. 101
XX. CAKES . > . . 104
XXI. FRUITS >, 112
XXII. PASTRY w ......... 116
XXIII. SHORT CAKES 123
XXIV. PAPER BAG MENUS .... . . 133
XXV. A FEW OF THE EASIEST DISHES FOR BE-. . . .
GINNERS . 145
IN giving this little book to the public, there has been
in mind one thing practicability.
The endeavor has been to make the directions for
" Paper-bag Cookery " so clear and concise that even
the inexperienced housekeeper may not be deterred from
trying this new-old way of cooking foods delicately,
No one is advised to try dishes as for instance soups,
omelettes, macaroni and kin, and many desserts that
may better be done by other methods.
Neither has the author called for strange and divers
seasonings and materials that are only to be found in
the kitchens of the mighty and their attendant chefs.
For the very large family or boarding house, pots and
pans need still be called upon ; but for the small family,
for the woman who does her own work and wishes to
minimize labor, or for the epicurean but frugal housewife
who looks personally after the details of her own little
establishment, this paper-bag cookery is commended. If
this little volume points the easiest way for the prepara-
tion of nice dishes with a modicum of labor and a saving
of time and money, it is all that its author and compiler
WHAT IS PAPER BAG COOKERY?
THE principles contained in Paper-bag Cookery are
not new. Woodsmen and hunters have known for ages
that if they wanted fish or game done to a turn, a jacket
of clay outside the meat which was protected from soil
by leaves or corn husks, gave, on removing the clay case,
the very quintessence of delicate, savory cookery.
Now within the last two years, a series of experiments
has resulted in the perfecting of a system of Paper-bag
Cookery that revolutionizes the old time kitchen drudg-
ery with its unending round of greasy pots and pans to
be taken into account.
The advantages of this method of cooking are mani-
fold. They may be epitomized thus :
I. It makes food more savory and nutritious.
II. It is sanitary. No dust can reach the article be-
ing cooked and, the cooking accomplished, the bag can
be thrown into the stove or kitchen scrap basket with no
temptation for a lazy maid to tuck away a greasy pan in
the dish closet for the delectation of " germs " or
III. It is economical. Not only does it save the time
and strength of the housewife with no aftermath of
dirty cooking dishes to be washed, but it prevents the
shrinkage of meats as caused by ordinary cookery.
Nothing is lost, because there is no evaporation; careful
experiments prove that the weight of the cooked food
tallies almost exactly with the weight of the raw. There
$l, some claiming as high as 40
per cent., owing to' the less time required in Paper-bag
Cookery. While this may be a generous estimate it is
certain that Paper-bag Cookery takes on the average,
one-third less time than other cooking.
IV. With ordinary care there is no danger of food
burning, and no deterioration in flavor if left in the bag
some little time before serving.
V. It is odorless; a great thing, this, for the flat-
dweller who has to cook in restricted quarters, taking
care always that cooking odors do not permeate the
VI. Its price is not prohibitive. Indeed, it is most
Paper-bag Cookery calls for no big outlay of money,
no patent stove oven, no complex apparatus or appli-
ances. All that is necessary is an oven of any sort
coal, gas, electric, wood or oil a broiler, a paper bag
specially and sanitarily prepared, grease proof and
waterproof, a wood cookery dish if the food contains
liquid or a number of separate ingredients, and some-
thing to cook therein. Another convenience are the wire
clips for fastening the mouth and corners of the bag,
which can be purchased wherever the bags are sold.
THE KIND OF PAPER BAG TO USE.
While a sheet of heavy foolscap paper made into a
bag serves for the cooking of a single chop it is self-
evident that for larger proportions, larger bags and
bags from strong, absolutely sanitary paper must be
used. While there are bags and bags now upon the
market, not all fulfill these essential conditions. After
much experimenting, the Continental Paper Bag Co, of
Rumford, Maine, and New York City, has succeeded in
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 11
producing the ideal bag which may now be found in
varying sizes, at all the large house-furnishing stores,
grocers, butchers, etc., or the bags may be ordered direct
from headquarters. These bags are put up in bulk in
bundle lots, or in sealed packages of assorted sizes.
Each of the sealed packages contains thirty bags of as-
sorted sizes with the necessary clips and a small book of
recipes with full directions. Retail price 25 cents a
package fifty packages to a shipping bundle.
In order to make paper bag cookery of the greatest
value to housewives, both as regards cleanliness and
ease of operation, to say nothing of the many cases
where the flavor of the food is actually improved, the
author heartily recommends the use of specially pre-
pared wood cookery dishes. These dishes are most in-
expensive, varying in price from about thirty for ten
cents to six for ten cents, depending upon size. They
can be purchased wherever the paper bags are sold,
department stores, house furnishing stores, grocery
stores, etc., etc., or may be obtained direct from the
Oval Wood Dish Company, Delta, Ohio. The food is
placed in the wood cookery dish and the dish is put
into the bag. The advantage lies in the fact that
should the bag break, the food and juices are saved
in the dish and the oven will not be soiled by leakage.
Then again, the food can be removed from the bag when
finished with greater ease than when the dish is not
used. The dishes are so cheap that they can be thrown
away with the bag after the food is prepared.
GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR USING THE BAG.
I. SELECT a bag that fits the food to be cooked.
When a liquid is used or a number of ingredients are
to be cooked together, use a wood cookery dish which
holds the food stuffs together and permits their ready;
removal from the bag.
II. Brush over the outside of the bag with a little
water to make it pliable. Grease the inside except in
the case of vegetables or when water is added, using for
this another little flat brush (kept for this purpose) and
pure vegetable oil, melted butter or drippings. Apply
the brush with a rotary motion greasing the bottom first
and working toward the top ; or lay the bag flat on a
table, reach inside and grease the lower side of the bag,
then press the other side against it until both surfaces
are evenly greased. The up-to-date housewife who is
adopting the paper-bag culinary cult has also discovered
that for greasing the bags, a necessary step, there is
nothing that can take the place of the high grade vege-
table oils. They are easily applied and absolutely taste-
less and odorless, a great point, this, when the bags
themselves have sometimes been condemned as imparting
a foreign odor to foods cooked in them, when in reality it
was the fault of the special fat with which they were
greased. Now place the bag flat on the table,
seam side up and lift the uppermost side while you in-
sert the article to be cooked. Press the air out of the
bag, fold over the corners and make two folds of the
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 13
mouth of the bag, fastening firmly with three or four
clips, or even pins. No harm is done if the two lower
corners of the bag are folded and also fastened with one
III. Now be sure the oven heat is right. If you are
using gas for the cooking, light for five minutes before
the bag goes into the oven. The average oven heat should
be not less than 200 degrees Fahrenheit, and may be 250
degrees. When the bag is put into the oven, the heat
must be at once reduced to 170 degrees. An inex-
perienced cook lacking an oven thermometer can test the
right degree of heat by placing a bit of paper in the
oven and noting the color it assumes. At the end of five
minutes it should be a light golden brown.
If the heat is too intense the bag will burst. Now
carefully lay the bag on the grid shelves or wire broilers
never on solid shelves, being careful to place the seam
side of the bag up.
This is imperative, as otherwise the juices of the
food being cooked may cause the seam to open, and dis-
tribute its contents over the oven. Once placed in posi-
tion, roasts and entrees on the lower shelf, about an inch
from the oven floor, fish on the middle shelf, and pastry
on the top where heat is most intense, do not move or
open the bags until the schedule time of their cooking is
accomplished. In placing the article to be cooked, take
care that the bag does not touch the sides of the oven and
that it is not too close to the flames. When the time limit
of cooking has expired, take up the bag from
the shelf by drawing with the wires, not across
them, which is apt to tear the bag made ten-
der by charring. Slip on to the lid of a pot
or flat tin held just beneath the grid and thence to the
heated platter. To secure the gravy, stick a pinhole in
14 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
the bottom of the bag and allow it to drain on to the
platter, or serving dish. Rip open the bag from the top
and throw the charred fragments away at once. If to be
served hot, arrange at once on a heated platter or other
dish, with its appropriate garnish.
POINTERS FOR PAPER BAG COOKERY.
I. In the case of a coal-heated oven with solid shelves
a wire broiler or " grid " should be substituted as the heat
must be allowed to circulate on all sides of the bag.
II. The size of the oven makes no difference but it
must be kept clean.
III. In the case of a fowl or joint see that there are no
rough edges or bones protruding that will be likely to
pierce the bag.
IV. Do not season the article to be cooked too highly
as none of the seasonings are dissipated during the cook-
ing as is usually the case in ordinary boiling or roasting.
V. For cooking fruit, grease the outside of the bag.
VI. In removing the bag from the oven, draw with
the wires, not across them.
VII. To brown things at the last of the cooking, if;
necessary, puncture a few holes in the top of the bag.
VIII. If a bag breaks in the cooking, as it sometimes
will if the heat is too intense, do not try to remove the
article being cooked from the bag, but slip the whole
into a new well-greased bag. The use of two bags is bet-
ter than one when things require long cooking or for
meats with much fat or juicy dishes. While it may cost
a bit more, it will save much anxiety lest the bag burst.
IX. To avoid havingany chance drippings soil the oven
floor, slip a thin tin baking sheet or shallow dripper un-
der the broiler, letting it rest flat on the bottom of the
oven. Put in a little hot water and this steam will keep
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 15
the bag moist and do much to discourage its breaking.
Indeed, in baking any kind of fruit cake, which requires
slow cooking, quite a little water in the drip-pan under-
neath is advisable.
X. In baking pastry and cake, a few tiny holes
should be made in the upper side of the bag before put-
ting in the oven. This will brown the surface of the cake
XI. Do not let the bag touch the sides of the oven
or the gas flames.
XII. Wire trivets such as are sold at house-furnishing
stores for use in cooling bread and cakes will be found
a great convenience. If a bag is laid on a trivet, it can
then be easily set in the oven and as easily lifted out
XIII. Never try to take things from the oven with
the gas lighted. Matches are cheaper than gas, if the
oven has to be relighted, and burned fingers or wrists
are more costly than many matches.
XIV. Use care in opening the oven. A draught from
an open door or window might cause the gas flame to
ignite the bag.
XV. Until taught by experience, follow the time table
as given in the cookery book.
As a general rule less time is required for Paper-bag
Cookery than any other way. While this approximate
time table is at your service, experience will enable you
to modify the figures to suit your own stove and your
family's predilections as to having things rare or well
lib 15 minutes
3 Ibs 30 minutes
6 Ibs 50 minutes
Beef, 3 Ibs 45 minutes
Add 5 minutes for each additional pound.
Veal, 5 Ibs 1 hour and a half.
Add 7 minutes for each additional pound.
Pork, 3 Ibs 50 minutes
Add 6 minutes for each additional pound.
Mutton, leg 8 pounds An hour and a half
Mutton, shoulder 5 pounds 45 minutes
Mutton, chops 12 minutes
Mutton, cutlets 8 minutes
Lamb, leg 7 Ibs 1% hours.
Lamb, shoulder 50 minutes
Lamb, chops 10 minutes
Sausages 8 minutes
Sliced Bacon 6 minutes
Turkey (stuffed) 15 Ibs 2% hours
Turkey (not stuffed) 15 Ibs 2 hours
Goose (ordinary size) 2 hours
Goose (green) iy 2 hours
Duck (old) 1 hour
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 17
Duck (young) 35 minutes
Guinea, 6 Ibs 1 hour and 40 minutes
Chicken (large) 1 hour and a half
Chicken (young) 45 minutes
Quail and other small birds 15 minutes
Stews (meat) medium sized 1% or two hours
Potatoes (Baked) 35 minutes
Sweet (ten minutes less than by the other methods of
TABLE OF MEASUREMENTS.
4 teaspoonfuls of liquid 1 tablespoonf ul
4 tablespoonf uls of liquid y 2 gill or % cupful
1 tablespoonful of liquid % ounce
1 pint of liquid 1 pound
2 gills of liquid 1 cupful or % pint
1 kitchen cupful y 2 pint
1 quart sifted pastry flour 1 pound
4 cupfuls sifted pastry flour 1 quart or 1 pound
2 rounded tablespoonf uls of flour 1 ounce
1 rounded tablespoonful granulated sugar.. 1 ounce
2 rounded tablespoonf uls of ground spice. .1 ounce
1 heaping tablespoonful powdered sugar. . 1 ounce
3 cupfuls cornmeal 1 pound
1 cupful butter y 2 pound
1 pint butter 1 pound
1 tablespoonful butter 1 ounce
Butter size of an egg 2 ounces
10 eggs 1 pound
1 solid pint chopped meat 1 pound
2 cupfuls granulated sugar 1 pound
1 pint brown sugar 7 ounces
2y 2 cups powdered sugar 1 pound
1 cupful stemmed raisins 6 ounces
1 cupful rice % pound
1 cupful stemmed raisins 6 ounces
1 cupful cleaned and dried currants 6 ounces
1 cupful grated bread crumbs 2 ounces
8 rounded tablespoonfuls of flour 1 cupful
8 rounded tablespoonfuls of sugar 1 cupful
8 rounded tablespoonfuls of butter 1 cupful
1 common tumbler 1 cupful
3 tablespoonfuls grated chocolate 1 ounce
4 gills 1 pint
2 pints 1 quart
4 quarts 1 gallon
APPETIZERS AND RELISHES.
APPETIZERS play a very important part now-a-days in
all up-to-date establishments and even in modest homes
where they are not only employed as introductory to the
course dinner, but as a pleasing accessory to the after-
noon tea service. They are supposed to whet the appe-
tite for the heavier dishes that follow. In Europe one
always finds them. They are considered very "smart "
and as they are but little trouble to prepare in Paper
bag cookery, when one has learned the trick, there is no
reason why the hostess who aims to keep abreast of the
times should not make frequent use of them. At very
formal affairs, they are placed on the service plates after
the guests are seated, but usually they are at each place
when the meal is announced. Canapes (which means
" toast cushions " or bouchees, small patties or " bites ")
with their accompanying spread of appetizing fish,
cheese or potted meats, are newer than the cocktails of
oyster, clam or grape-fruit that used to lead the feast.
Bouchee Cases. These are usually made from pas-
try by covering tiny but deep patty pans with rich pas-
try, cutting narrow strips to make the rim for the cup.
Put on a tin in a buttered bag and bake. When cool
they will slip from the pan. They may be made the day
before using if preferred.
Another way of preparing them is to cut good sized
circles of bread; then with a smaller cutter, scrape out
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 19
a hollow, spread with butter, put in the bag and bake ten
minutes until browned. When ready to serve, fill with
any mixture desired and serve hot or cold as appetizers
or with the salad course.
Bonne Bouchee. Make the pastry cases and when
ready to serve fill with pate-de-foie gras, made soft with
whipped cream, seasoned with salt, cayenne or paprika.
Decorate each one with an olive or bit of aspic jelly.
Bouchees of Caviare, Olives and Mayonnaise.-
Spread circles or dominoes of bread with a thin layer of
caviare. In the center place a pitted olive, green or
black, with its pit removed and the cavity filled with
minced red peppers. Hold the olive in place with a few
drops of mayonnaise, red or the usual yellow, and put
tiny dots of the same about the border.
Bouchees of Sardines. Pound one or two boned
sardines in a mortar, together with a small quantity of
cheese. Season with salt, pepper and chili vinegar, and
add, if you like, a few chopped oysters. Spread this
mixture on circles of " bagged " bread about the size of
a silver dollar, and add a garnish of hard-boiled yoke of
egg, rubbed through a sieve and a little finely minced
Bouchees of Sausage or Tongue. Cover circles of
" bagged " bread with red stars cut from boiled tongue
or the red imported sausages. Lay on the top of each
star, log cabin fashion, several tiny lengths of pickled
gherkins and crown with a sprig of water-cress.
The Making of Canapes. Bread two days old is
best for the foundation. Trim free from crusts, then cut
in uniform oblongs, diamonds, triangles, circles or
fingers as desired, using for this the cutters that come
20 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
on purpose. Butter lightly, spread with the prepared
mixture and slip into the well-greased paper-bag for five
minutes just long enough to brown the toast delicately
and heat the savory.
Anchovy Canapes. Cut white bread in oblong
strips, spread lightly with butter, and anchovy paste,
and tuck into the buttered bag. Bake five minutes, then
serve hot, adding, if liked, to each canape two strips of
boneless anchovy laid across it diagonally and a squeeze
of lemon juice.
Caviare Canapes. Cut bread in circles and spread
with a mixture of three tablespoonfuls caviare paste, one
teaspoonful lemon juice, one half teaspoonful paprika,
two tablespoonfuls of butter, and a half cupful minced]
cress. Pop in the buttered bag and cook five minutes.
Hot Cheese Canapes. Take circles or strips of
Vienna bread, spread lightly with butter, grate a little
cheese over them, sprinkle on top a little cayenne pepper
and salt and put in bag. Cook five minutes.
Cheese and Cracker Canapes. Split Boston crack-
ers and soak ten minutes in cold water. Lift out
carefully and place on a well-buttered baking tin. Drop
on each a generous bit of butter, a sprinkling of grated
Parmesan or American cheese and a dusting of
paprika. Put in the bag, seal and bake fifteen minutes
in a hot oven.
Cheese Toast Sandwiches. Cut slices of white
bread rather thicker than for sandwiches. Chop fine
one cupful of American cheese and two green peppers
with the seeds removed. Season with salt and pepper
and work to a paste. Spread one slice of bread with
butter and its mate with creamed filling. Press firmly
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 21
together, take off the crusts, and put into the buttered
bag. Bake five minutes and serve very hot.
Cracker Crisps. Dip oyster crackers or dinner bis-
cuits in melted butter, sprinkle with Parmesan cheese,
and put in a paper bag. Bake ten minutes.
Deviled Crackers. Mix three tablespoonfuls of
grated cheese, one-fourth teaspoon of dry mustard, one
teaspoon of anchovy paste, a dash of cayenne and a pinch
of butter. Spread over the crackers and put in bag in a
hot oven to brown.
Diables a Cheval. Have ready large French
prunes that have been soaked twenty-four hours in water,
then cooked and the pits removed. Insert almonds in
the cavity left by the pit. Toss in olive oil or refined
cotton seed oil or roll in thin slices of bacon, fastened
with a tooth pick, put in the bag, seal and cook eight
minutes. Serve piping hot.
Salted Almonds. Shell as many nice large nuts as
desired. The Jordan nuts are best, but the paper-shelled
ones will answer. Put into a bowl and cover with boil-
ing water. Spread a towel over the bowl to retain the
steam and let them stand five minutes. Pour off the
water and replace with cold, then rub off the brown
skins between thumb and forefinger. Shake in a
colander until dry, then put in a shallow dish adding for
each cupful of nuts, one tablespoonful melted butter,
olive or refined cotton seed oil (preferably either of the
oils, which will give the richer glaze). Stir well to-
gether. Let stand an hour, then put into the well
greased paper bag, first sprinkling with dry salt, allow-
22 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
ing one tablespoonful to each cupful of nuts. Fasten and
roast ten minutes, shaking the bag occasionally. You can
do this by the aid of two trivets.
Deviled Almonds. To devil them, add a suspicion
of cayenne pepper with the salt.
Roasted Chestnuts. Make a cross on the shell of
the nut using a sharp penknife. Put in the oiled
bag, dredge lightly with salt, and let cook twenty min-
utes giving an occasional shake.
Salted Chestnuts. Throw into boiling water as
many shelled nuts as desired. Blanch and dry, patting
with a soft towel. Then add olive oil or melted butter to
the nuts, allowing a teaspoonful to each cup of nuts and
let them remain in oil half an hour. Dredge with salt, a
heaping teaspoonful to each cup, then put in oiled
bag and let them brown in the oven from 10 to 15 min-
utes, shaking the bag frequently to keep them from
scorching and make them an even brown. These should
be crisp and delicate. To devil them, add a suspicion of
cayenne with the salt. Serve at dinner after the
Deviled Chestnuts. Shell and blanch a quart of
chestnuts. Dry thoroughly, then brown in paper bag in
hot olive oil or butter. Have ready a mixture composed
of two tablespoonfuls of chopped mixed pickle, one
tablespoonful Worcestershire sauce, one quarter tea-
spoonful salt and a dash of cayenne. Turn this over the
hot nuts, and serve at once.
Bread Sticks. IN preparing these, any bread dough
may be used, though that with shortening is preferred.
After it is kneaded enough to be elastic, cut into pieces
half the size of an egg, then roll on the molding board
into a stick the size of a pencil and about a foot long.
Lay these strips in the well-greased paper bag, let
them rise a little before putting in the oven, then fasten
the bag and bake with a moderate heat, so they will dry
without much browning.
Croutons Toasted. Slice bread that is stale but not
too dry, into pieces about half an inch thick, cut these
slices in uniform cubes and put in a well-greased bag.
Shake occasionally and let toast for ten minutes.
Crisped Crackers. Split butter crackers and spread
with butter. Put into the paper bag buttered side up
and bake ten minutes. These are delicious with vege-
table soups and in fish chowder and oyster stew.
Egg Balls. Drop the yolk of four eggs into a cup
and set in a pan of water over the fire. When the
yolks are cooked hard and mealy, pound to a paste and
season with an even teaspoonful of salt, a pinch of cay-
enne or a more liberal sprinkling of paprika. Mould in-
to balls the size of grapes, by mixing the yolk of a raw
egg with the cooked paste, rolling lightly in the white of
24 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
an egg, then in flour. Tuck into a small buttered bag,
fasten, and set in oven for five minutes to become firm.
Forcemeat Balls or Quenelles. Chop very fine
any cold meat you have on hand, and season with salt,
pepper, chopped parsley and a little onion juice. For
one cupful of the prepared meat, beat one egg until
light, stir in with hashed meat and add just enough flour
to make cohesive. Roll in the hands to the size of hick-
ory nuts, put in paper bag and cook ten minutes.
FISH and the paper bag method of cooking, go hand
and glove. The thing that every housewife hates most,
particularly in a small apartment, or in the Winter when
it is difficult to get the house thoroughly aired, is the
pervasive odor that announces to every one in the house
or block just what you are going to have for dinner.
Bagged, the odor is so minimized as to be entirely inof-
fensive. Ten minutes airing after the bag is opened will
be quite sufficient to dissipate every particle of odor.
Furthermore, the fish itself is much more delicate and
digestible with all the flavor of fish and seasoning held
in and united in a harmonious whole. Of course, this
presupposes a fresh fish to start with, or one just out of
cold storage, before it has had a chance to thaw and de-
velope ptomaines. In buying fish, look at the eyes and
flesh. Fish should be firm to the touch. If pressed by the
finger the flesh should rise instantly. There should be
no impression left. If fish is fresh the eyes are bright
and the gills red and the scales not easily rubbed off.
Never lay fish directly on artificial ice, say the fishermen,
as the amonnia used in the freezing affects them injuri-
ously. Shell fish are not so apt to spoil as the other fish.
The wood cookery dishes will be found of great value
in cooking all kinds of fish in paper bags. In many
cases the flavor of the fish is improved and the fish can
26 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
always be taken from the bag with ease and served
whole if desired.
Clam Pies. Line little tins or moulds with paste and
put in a layer of raw clams with a seasoning of butter
and pepper. Dredge with flour, add a spoonful or two
of clam juice, cover with the paste, cut a hole in the top,
brush with beaten egg, slip into the bag, fasten and bake
Roast Clams. Scrub the shells clean and slip in the
bag. As soon as the shells open, remove carefully and
pour off the extra liquor in as may small cups as you
have persons to serve. Put a cup of the juice to which a
bit of butter and dusting of pepper has been added, in
the center of a soup dish, and arrange the clams around
it. With an oyster fork, the clams may then be removed
from the shell, dipped into the liquor and eaten. Serve
very hot with quarters of lemon.
Crabs, Soft and Hard. While soft shell crabs are
too expensive for the purse of moderate depth, the hard
shell crustacean is always in order and greatly to be de-
sired. Crabs, like all other shell fish, are best when
fresh from their native waters, and the individual who
can do his own crabbing and then eat the fruits of his
labor with the flavor of the sea still with them, has noth-
ing more to be desired from a gastronomic standpoint.
In most markets crabs may be found both alive and
boiled. If alive, keep them in cold water until ready
to cook. If already boiled, use them as soon as possible
as they do not keep well for more than twenty-four
hours. When ready to cook live crabs, take up on a
skimmer, handling gingerly so as to avoid a pinch, and
drop into a large kettle of boiling salted water. Cook
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 27
gently fifteen minutes, or until a bright red, skim out,
and cool, twist off the claws, remove the upper shell from
the under, scrape the spongy portions from the sides, re-
move the green portion and wash free from sand. Crack
the large claws and remove the meat. If you are to
serve the crab meat in the shells, wash and dry as many
of the upper ones as desired. These preliminaries at-
tended to, the crabs are ready to use, in any one of a
dozen different ways.
Creamed Crabs. Remove the meat from a half
dozen hard-shelled crabs. Cook two tablespoonfuls of
butter and a tablespoonful of finely chopped onion until
yellow, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and pour in
gradually a cup of cream. As soon as blended and
smooth, add the crab meat, salt and paprika to season,
a tiny grating of nutmeg and a tablespoonful of sherry
wine. Spread on slices of toast, grate a little cheese on
top, put into a bag, seal, set in the oven a moment to
beat through, then serve.
Crabs Deviled a la William Penn. Boil hard-
shelled crabs, then remove the under part without break-
ing the upper shell. Take out the crab meat, add about
half the quantity of bread crumbs and some chopped
hard boiled eggs, with salt, cayenne and lemon juice to
season. Form into a paste with a little melted butter
and fill the shells. Sift buttered crumbs over the top,
slip in the bag and cook ten minutes in a hot oven.
Crab Meat au Gratin. Mix the meat from six
crabs with a third the amount finely chopped, sweet,
green peppers. Add the yolks of two eggs beaten with
a half cup cream and a little sherry, and toss in a sauce-
pan until hot and creamy. Put the mixture into the
28 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOJKERY
cleaned crab shells or the little brown ramequins,
sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and fine crumbs; put in
bag and crisp in a hot oven.
Crab Flakes au Gratin. Add to one pint crab flakes,
one-half cupful cream sauce, two tablespoon fuls melted
butter and a quarter teaspoonful paprika. Mix well to-
gether, place in a small wood cookery dish or ramequins,
sprinkle the top with toast crumbs and a light sprinkling
of Roman cheese. Put into bags, bake and serve. If
any be left over, it makes a delicious salad served on
lettuce with mayonnaise.
Lobster Chops. Put into a saucepan a heaping
tablespoonful of butter and two very heaping ones of
flour. As soon as melted and frothed, add one cupful of
hot milk or cream, and stir until the mixture is smooth
and thick. Season with salt and paprika, take from the
fire, add two cups of the lobster, cut fine, mix well and
turn on to a platter to get as cold as possible. When
cold and firm, form into balls, then flatten into chops,
roll in egg, then in cracker crumbs and set away on the
ice until ready to cook. Put in buttered paper bag and
cook ten minutes. When ready to serve, tuck one of the
little claws in the small end to simulate a chop bone and
garnish with lemon and parsley. For Sunday night sup-
per these chops may be cooked early in the day, then
simply re-bagged and heated in the oven for the meal.
Coquilles of Lobster. Cook two tablespoonfuls of
finely chopped onion in a tablespoonful butter for fifteen
minutes. Have ready a cream sauce made by melting to-
gether over the fire a tablespoonful each of butter and
flour, then thinning with a cupful of white stock that has
been cooked with a small bouquet of sweet herbs. Salt
and pepper to taste, and if you like add half a cupful
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 29
chopped mushrooms and their liquor. Add to the lightly
browned onions two cupfuls finely cut lobster meat, a
tablespoonful minced parsley, one cupful of the made
sauce and salt and paprika. Cook together ten minutes,
then put the mixture into the shells, pour a little of the
sauce over each, sprinkle with buttered bread crumbs,
bag, and bake about ten minutes or until they are
Lobster in Shells. Cut the meat from two cans of
lobster into small pieces. Sprinkle a few bread crumbs
and a little salt and pepper over it. Then put in shells.
On each shell put a good sized lump of butter, two tea-
spoonfuls of wine, some more salt and pepper and some
more bread crumbs. Put prepared shells in a paper bag,
put in a hot oven and cook ten minutes.
Mussels au Gratin. Remove and clean the mussels,
straining all the liquor thoroughly. Then make this
sauce : Fry two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions in
butter for a few minutes, but do not let them brown ;
add about a teaspoonful of flour, and, while the onions
are blending, add the liquor of the mussels, stirring it in
slowly. Cook this mixture for a few minutes; then add
a tablespoonful of vinegar, the same quantity of chopped
parsley and pepper and salt to taste. Butter a shallow
earthen or wooden baking dish; in the bottom spread a
layer of the sauce, lay the mussels on top of it and cover
them with the balance of the sauce. Over all this spread
a thin coating of breadcrumbs; butter and bake in bag
until they have browned. Serve in the same dish in
which they were baked.
Boxed Oysters (Virginia Style). Take crusty
rolls cut off the top and scoop out the hearts leaving them
30 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY,
each like a box. Fill the space with oysters, seasoning
with sault, pepper and butter and sprinkling over them
some of the crumb of the roll that you have removed. Put
bits of butter on top, then replace the cover. Set the rolls
in the buttered bag and pour the strained oyster liquor
over them. Put into a hot oven and bake for fifteen min-
utes. Serve hot. Lemon juice or a little mace is some-
times used for seasoning the oysters.
Spindled Oysters and Bacon. For two dozen
large oysters have two dozen thin slices bacon, and a half
dozen slices crisp toast. Have ready a half dozen slen-
der steel skewers. Fill these skewers with alternate
slices of bacon and oysters, running the skewer cross-
wise through the eye of the oyster and threading the
bacon by one corner, so that each slice blankets an oys-
ter. Do not crowd. Lay the skewers in a buttered bag,
and cook in a quick oven ten minutes. Lay each spindle
with its contents undisturbed on a slice of toast, pour
the drip from the bag over them and serve at once.
Filet of Bass. WASH and wipe the filets dry
with a clean towel, trimming away the fins with a pair of
large scissors close to the filet. Dust with salt and lay
in a covered dish with a minced onion, the juice of half
a lemon and a bit of finely cut parsley and thyme. Let
them stand half an hour. Twenty minutes before serv-
ing wipe dry again, dust lightly with flour, dip in well-
beaten egg, then roll in fine bread crumbs. When all are
prepared, put in greased bag and cook twenty minutes
until a delicate brown. Arrange on a warm dish and
serve with parsley and lemon or sauce tartare. Filets of
sole may be cooked in the same way.
Baked Blue Fish. Clean thoroughly, cut off head
and tail and fill with a soft bread stuffing. Tie up se-
curely, rub over the outside of the fish with sweet vege-
table oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, add a squeeze of
lemon juice and slip into the greased bag. Seal and
cook from twenty to forty minutes according to weight.
Serve with sliced lemon rolled in fine cut parsley.
A Breakfast Dish of Bloaters. Few people know
how very nice smoked and dried fish can be when cooked
in a paper bag and seasoned in the French fashion. Cut
off the head and tail of the fish, loosen the skin at the
neck with a knife and holding it firmly between the
knife and finger, pull it off. Split the fish with a sharp
32 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
knife, remove the backbone and soak in cold water over
night, or if you forget to do that, for twenty minutes in
water nearly at the boiling point. Arrange the filets in a
wooden baking dish, cover with milk, dot with bits of but-
ter, put in bag and bake in a hot oven for fifteen minutes.
Garnish with a little finely chopped parsley or sprigs of
water cress and serve with paper-bag baked potatoes.
On a cool morning there are few more appetizing break-
fast dishes, while its cheapness puts it within the reach
of the most impecunious. For a change the filets may be
baked in buttered paper cases or cooked au gratin still in
Cat Fish. For the small sized cat fish clean, wash,
dry well, salt and pepper inside and out, then grease well
with butter or vegetable oil and roll in fine, sifted bread
crumbs or corn meal. Lay in a well greased bag on thin
sliced bacon, put a few more slices of bacon on top. Seal
and cook half an hour.
Codfish Cones. " Pick up " enough salt codfish to
make two cupfuls of the shreds. Cover with cold water
and let stand for two hours, then drain, make a cream
sauce, using two level tablespoonfuls each butter and
flour, and one cupful of hot milk. Mash and season
enough hot boiled potatoes to measure two cupfuls, add
sauce and fish and beat well with a fork. Shape in small
cones, brush with melted butter, dredge with fine bread
crumbs and put in a paper bag. Cook ten minutes. If
desired some thin slices of bacon can be cooked at the
same time in a separate bag and be used as a garnish for
Codfish a la Creme. Cook the fish first in boiling
salted water which has been very slightly acidulated
with vinegar. Let it cook until the flesh separates from
STANDARD PAPER; BAG COOKERY 55
the bones. After draining thoroughly and removing the
skin and bones, break the flesh into large flakes. Pour a
highly seasoned white sauce over it. It may now be cook-
ed in a wooden baking dish in the bag, or it may be pre-
pared as follows: Press it into the form of an oblong
mould, using only just enough sauce to hold the flakes to-
gether. Not as much sauce is needed as when the fish is
browned in a baking dish. Brush the top liberally with
melted butter, sprinkle with rolled cracker crumbs. Put
the mold in a paper bag in the oven, and let the fish ac-
quire a nutty, crisp crust. Send to the table garnished
with lemon and parsley or thin slices of tomato and a fevr
sprays of water cress.
Paper Bagged Eels. Eels may be cooked in a pa-
per bag without growing as hard as they are apt to do as
ordinarily treated. Allow one-half pound of eels (after
they are dressed) to a person. ^Wash them thoroughly,
removing all blood from slit in eels. Cut in two-inch
pieces, put in a dish and sprinkle a teaspoonful of salt
to every pound over them. Now pour over them boiling
water, enough to cover well, and let stand until water is
cold. Pour water off and leave eels where they will drain
until nearly dry. Take sufficient Indian meal to roll
them in, add a little pepper to it and roll each piece un-
til well covered. Place in a well-greased bag and cook
about twenty minutes, when they will be a rich brown,
thoroughly cooked and deliciously juicy.
Flounder a la Meuniere. Chop a small shallot
and mix with a teaspoonful of anchovy paste, a squeeze of
lemon juice, an ounce of butter, a little chopped
parsley, a dash of cayenne, salt and pepper
to taste. Put the fish with the seasoning inside
of a well buttered bag, after dredging the
34. STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
fish with flour. Pour a tablespoonful of melted
butter over the fish, seal up and cook. A two-pound fish,
whole, requires thirty minutes. The same weight of filets
cook in eight minutes.
Filets of Flounder. Remove the filets from a medi-
um sized flounder and cut each filet in two. Season with
salt and pepper and a few drops of lemon juice and fold
each filet in two or roll up skin side inwards. Put a
small piece of butter, or a teaspoonful of vegetable oil
on top of each and place carefully in the well-greased
bag. Seal the mouth of the bag, and cook about ten
minutes on the wire grid in a hot oven.
Remove from the bag, lift carefully on to a hot platter,
garnish with water cress or parslied lemon slices and
Finnan Haddie. Pick out a fish that is thick
through the centre, weighing about two pounds. Soak in
cold water, after washing well, for an hour. Brush all
over with melted butter, dredge with flour, put in a well-
buttered bag, skin side down, dot with butter and pour
over it a cup of hot milk. Seal securely and bake in a very
hot oven twenty minutes. The fish may be served whole,
or flaked free from bones and skin and served with
Finnan Haddie. Prepare in the regular way, lay
in wood cookery dish, skin side down, season with bits
of butter, add a small cupful of warm milk, put in bag
and seal. Bake twenty-five minutes and serve from
the dish with cream sauce. This eliminates the wash-
ing of dishes with the strong fishy odor.
Fish Cakes. Use for this two cupfuls cold fish freed
from skin and bones and chopped fine, and the same
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 35
amount of cooked, seasoned and mashed potatoes. Mix
well, season with salt and pepper, add two tablespoon-
fuls vegetable oil or melted butter and two tablespoon-
fuls of milk. Whip the mixture until as "light as feath-
ers." Shape into small, flat cakes of even size. Beat
up an egg on a plate, then egg the cakes and roll deftly
in the finest of sifted bread crumbs and again shape. Put
in well greased bag, seal and put in a hot oven. Cook
about twenty minutes.
New England Fish Pie. Have a pound of cod
steak boned and cut in pieces. Roll each piece in slightly
salted flour, and season with paprika or white pepper.
Lay in the well-greased bag and put on top of the fish a
layer of oysters with their juice and a squeeze of lemon
juice. Sprinkle with a layer of finely rolled and buttered
cracker crumbs, dot with a few bits of butter, seal the
bag and bake slowly fifteen minutes. Have ready some
hot mashed potato well sesasoned with cream and butter.
Take the grid and bag from the oven, tear off the top
of the bag, spread the potato over the fish like a crust,
brush over with a little milk mixed with a portion of an
egg yolk and set back in oven for five minutes to brown
and glaze, turning the grid with the bag twice during the
cooking. Cut open the bag, put the fish balls on a hot
platter, garnish and serve plain with a tomato sauce.
Fish Souffle. One pint of boiled halibut? or other
delicate fish, freed from bones and skin and mashed to a
pulp. Season with one small teaspoonful of salt, a dash
of pepper, and one teaspoonful of onion juice. Melt a
large tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan, and cook in
it for three minutes a tablespoonful of flour. Add slowly
a cupful of milk and the seasoned fish pulp. Beat two
eggs thoroughly and add the fish to them. Pour all into
36 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
bag, seal and bake twenty minutes in a moderate oven,
half an hour.
Planked Fish Bag-Cooked. Planked fish responds
beautifully to the paper-bag treatment, and there is no
better way of developing the distinctive flavor of any of
the delicate white-meated fish. The plank however
should not be as thick as that usually required. It must
be of hard-wood, hickory, cherry, live oak, cedar or ash
well seasoned and sawed about a half inch in thickness,
rounded and tapered at one end like an ironing board.
This to accommodate the tail of the fish. If cooking
small fish use the oval wood cooking dishes made of
Make it very hot in the oven or under the gas flame,
then grease well with vegetable oil, olive or the refined
cotton seed, and lay on it the fish cleaned, split down the
back, seasoned, oiled all over with the sweetest of vege-
table oils or butter and spread out as flat as possible with
the skin side next to the hot board. Slip into the greased
bag and fasten tightly. If you use the gas oven for
planking your fish, as most of us do, turn on both burn-
ers until the oven is very hot. Then set in the fish with
a trivet under the bag the same as if you were cooking
without the plank.
Bake from thirty to forty-five minutes, then serve pip-
ing hot on the plank which has been taken out of the
bag, set on a big japanned tray and garnished with hot
mashed potato pressed through a tube in rose fashion at
regular intervals, alternating with mounds of peas or
carrot dice, sprigs of watercress or parsley and thin
slices of lemon rolled in fine minced parsley. Accompany
with sauce tartare or parsley butter.
Halibut a la Poulette. Take two pounds of hali-
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 37
but, arrange in filets, freeing from skin and bone; then
cut into narrow strips. Season with salt, pepper and
lemon juice; cut two onions in slices and lay on the
filets, then set away for half an hour.> At the end of this
time have ready one-third cup melted butter or refined
vegetable oil. Dip the filets in this, roll, skewer into
shape and dredge with flour. Arrange in a well-buttered
bag, seal and bake twenty minutes in a moderate oven.
Serve with white sauce and two hard boiled eggs, sliced
for a garnish.
Herring au Gratin. Soak and filet the herring.
Butter a bag and strew the bottom with the bread
crumbs well buttered, a layer of grated cheese and a
little minced chives or parsley. Sprinkle with pepper
and lay in the filets of herring, plain or alternately with
sliced tomato. Cover with more crumbs, parsley, cheese
and butter, close the bag, and bake fifteen minutes until
a good brown.
Herrings With Herbs. Take four dried herrings,
bone them, fill the cavities with a little (about half a
teaspoonful to each fish) finely minced shallot or chives,
and parsley. Add a few fresh breadcrumbs and tiny
bits of butter. If liked, a tiny grate of nutmeg may be
added as well as a good dust of pepper. Put into a
well greased bag and bake in the oven for ten minutes.
Dish up and serve as hot as possible. Other dried fish
are excellent prepared in the same way.
Kedgeree. Mix one cup of shredded fish with one
cupful of boiled rice, tender and well drained. Put into a
well-buttered wooden baking dish, while you prepare the
sauce. Put into a saucepan one tablespoonful each of
butter and flour and as soon as melted and " bubbly/'
add one cup of hot milk. Stir until smooth and thick,
38 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
season with salt and pepper, take from the fire, add the
yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, that have been rubbed
through a sieve, pour over the rice and fish. Put the dish
in a well buttered bag and set in the oven until thoroughly
hot and delicately browned.
Kippered Mackerel With Fine Herbs. Cut salt
mackerel into filets, lay them in a deep earthen dish and
cover with boiling water. Leave in water half a min-
ute. Take out, wipe dry, dust with coarse black pepper
and put on top of each filet half a teaspoonful of minced
parsley and chives or onion and a bit of butter the size
of a small walnut. Grease a bag well, put in the filets;
seal and cook for twenty minutes in a hot oven. Serve
hot, with brown bread and butter.
Salmon Loaf. Mince one can of salmon, removing
all bits of bone. Add to it a cupful fine, stale bread
crumbs, two beaten eggs, a half cupful milk and salt,
pepper, parsley and lemon juice to season. Put in a
wooden mould in a buttered bag and bake or steam for
half an hour. Turn out and serve hot with a white or
Scalloped Salmon. Put a layer of soft grated
bread crumbs in the bottom of a wooden baking dish that
has been well buttered. Sprinkle the bread crumbs with
salt, pepper and bits of butter. Cover with a layer of
flaked salmon, seasoning with salt and pepper and
pouring in some of the oil and liquor from the can.
Over this spread another layer of the seasoned crumbs,
then more salmon and so on until the dish is filled. Let
the last layer be of buttered crumbs moistening slightly
with a little milk. Spread a little soft butter over the
surface and bake in a buttered bag for half an hour in
a hot oven to a rich brown.
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 39
Salmon Souffle. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter
in a saucepan and melt without browning. Add one
tablespoonful of flour, stir until blended, then pour in
one cup of warm milk. When thickened and smooth,
add the yolk of one egg, one cup of salmon flaked, a
tablespoonful of cream and a tiny bit of essence of
anchovy and pepper to season. Mix carefully and well,
fold in the white of one egg beaten until stiff and dry;
then fill ramekins or wooden dish three-quarters full.
Put in a bag and brown in a quick oven. Serve very
hot. Chopped parsley may be added if desired.
Baked Shad. In dressing the fish, cut as small an
opening as possible. Wash well, dry and fill with a
dressing made in this way. Pour over one cupful dry
bread crumbs enough cold water or milk to moisten. Add
a teaspoonful melted butter, and a teaspoonful minced
parsley. Mix thoroughly and fill the fish, sewing or
skewering the opening together. Use a wood cookery
dish and put into a buttered bag two or three
slices of wafer-thin salt pork and having salted
and peppered the outside of the fish lay care-
fully on top the sliced pork. Lay as many more thin
slices on top of the fish, or wipe over with olive oil.
Seal, set in the oven and bake three-quarters of an hour
in a moderate oven. Serve with sauce tartare or a good
brown sauce enriched with a small glass of Madeira.
Shad Roe. As soon as the fish comes from the water
or market, plunge the roe into boiling salted water to
which a tablespoonful of lemon juice or vinegar has
been added. Cook gently about ten minutes, lift out
with a skimmer and slip into a bowl of ice water to
become firm. When ready to cook, split lengthwise if
plump and full, brush over with olive oil, melted butter
40 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
or refined cotton seed oil, and tuck at once into the well
greased bag. Some cooks prefer to dust the roe with
fine bread crumbs, lay into beaten egg, then dust once
more with sifted crumbs before "bagging". Serve
simply with lemon and cress, with sauce tartare or may-
onnaise, or with a sauce prepared as follows: Put into
a saucepan two tablespoonfuls butter or olive oil, one
tablespoonful lemon juice, and chopped parsley, and a
teaspoonful Worcestershire sauce. Heat to the boiling
point and pour over the roe.
Smelts. Smelts skewered in rings, using a wooden
toothpick to hold heads and tails together, dipped in
milk, well floured and fried in deep fat, make an attrac-
tive fish course. The use of a wood cookery dish here is
strongly recommended. The skewer can be removed be-
fore serving, as the fish will usually keep its shape.
Garnish the plate on which the fish are served with cress
and slices of lemon rolled in finely minced parsley. If
the smelts are to furnish the main part of the meal, pile
them in the center of a hot platter and surround with a
border of mashed potato, or mound the potato and circle
with the fish for a border.
Bagged Weak Fish. Well grease a bag, with but-
ter or vegetable oil. Prepare a weak fish as for frying by
seasoning with salt, pepper and dredging well with
flour. Rub melted butter on both sides, place it in the
bag, skin side down, lightly dredge the upper side again
with flour and dot with butter. Peel and cut an onion in
half, put in the bag but not on the fish. Close the bag,
seal and cook on the wire rack or broiler in a hot oven
for twenty-five minutes,
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 41
White Fish Planked. Remove the head and tail
and bone of the fish. Wash carefully and place in
wooden cookery dish, skin side down. Season with
salt, pepper, bits of butter and chopped onion. Roll a
half dozen oysters in cracker crumbs, place on top of
fish, and put the dish in the bag. Bake forty minutes.
Set the wooden dish on a hot platter and serve. The
skin of the fish and remnants can be left in the dish
which can then be thrown away. Halibut and mackerel
are especially fine when prepared in these wood cookery
dishes as it holds them intact in process of cooking and
Anchovy Sauce. POUND three anchovies smooth
with three spoonfuls of butter, add two teaspoonfuls of
vinegar and a quarter of a cupful of water. Bring to
the boil and thicken with a tablespoonful of flour rubbed
smooth in a little cold water. Strain through a sieve
and serve hot.
Quick Bearnaise Sauce. Beat the yolks of four
eggs with four tablespoonfuls of oil and four of water.
Add a cupful of boiling water and cook slowly until
thick and smooth. Take from the fire and add minced
onion, capers, olives, pickles and parsley and a little
Bearnaise Sauce. This calls for four small, chopped
shallots, one branch of chopped tarragon, two table-
spoonfuls of wine vinegar, two raw egg yolks, two and
a half ounces of hot melted butter, half a teaspoonful of
chopped parsley and a teaspoonful of pepper. Put the
shallots, vinegar, tarragon and pepper in a saucepan
and let it stand on a slow fire until its contents are re-
duced to one-half their original quantity. Squeeze the
mixture through a cloth into another saucepan. Add the
egg yolks and beat the mixture four minutes without
allowing it to boil. Then add the melted butter very
gradually, still keeping the pan where there is no danger
of boiling. Season with a saltspoonful of salt and a half
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 43
Saltspoonful of cayenne pepper. It is well to make
the last an extremely scanty portion, as more may be
added if desired, but none can be removed. Stir all
again quite thoroughly for a minute. Add the parsley
Brown Sauce. Brown two tablespoonfuls of flour
in butter. Add two cupfuls of milk or cream and cook
until thick, stirring constantly.
Curry Sauce. Fry a tablespoonful of chopped
onion in butter and add a tablespoonful of flour, mixed
with a teaspoonful of curry powder. Mix thoroughly,
add one cupful of cold water, and cook until thick, stir-
ring constantly. Take from the fire, season with salt
and onion juice and serve hot.
Egg Sauce. Mix a half cup of butter, a tablespoon-
ful of flour, and a cupful of boiling water and set the
sauce pan on the stove. Stir until thickened, seasoning
with salt and pepper. Add two hard boiled eggs, chop-
ped fine, and serve.
Sauce Hollandaise. This is really a warm mayon-
naise, using butter instead of vegetable oil. It is the best
sauce for serving with salmon or other boiled fish if you
desire it hot. It requires a quarter pound butter, half a
lemon, the yolks of two eggs, a little salt and a half tea-
spoonful white pepper. The secret of its successful
making is to preserve an even temperature. The sauce
should not approach the boiling point, as the eggs would
cook and the sauce curdle. Put the eggs in a small
saucepan and add the butter, gradually stirring con-
stantly with a wooden spoon. It will soon thicken like
a mayonnaise. When the butter is all in, add salt and
pepper and lastly the lemon juice, stirring until well
44 STANDARD PAPER; BAG COOKERY
mixed. If the sauce becomes thick, add a little stock or
hot water. Surround the fish with parsley and slices of
lemon and serve the sauce in a bowl. A few sliced cu-
cumbers should be served with fish.
Egg Sauce Made From the Hollandaise. Egg
sauce may be made from the Hollandaise by sprinkling
with two finely chopped hard boiled eggs and a tea-
spoonful of parsley;.
Lobster Sauce. Phis is delicious with any white
fleshed fish. Its foundation is Hollandaise sauce, which
is also the foundation of most of the fish sauces. To
make it, stir together one tablespoonful of butter, a few
drops of onion juice, a bit of bay leaf (not too much),
pepper to season, and the juice of a half lemon. Add a
half cup of white stock or hot water and set the bowl
containing the mixture in a pan of hot water and stir
until the butter melts. As soon as very hot, take from
the fire and stir a little of the mixture in the well-beaten
yolks of one and one-half eggs, then add the rest of the
sauce and return to the fire. Stir constantly for five
minutes or until thickened. Add a teaspoonful of butter,
half the pounded coral of a lobster and a tablespoonful
of chopped lobster meat.
Maitre d'Hotel Butter. This is perhaps the sim-
plest and best sauce to serve on fried or broiled fish.
To make it, beat a heaping tablespoonful of butter to a
cream in a warm bowl; add the juice of a lemon, a half
teaspoonful of salt and two teaspoonfuls of minced pars-
ley. A grating of nutmeg or bit of chives is sometimes
added. If placed on the ice this can be kept on hand a
week or more. It is also excellent spread over a juicy
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 45
Sauce for Broiled Shad a la Murray. Fry the
milts, and while hot mash with butter, a tablespoonful
minced parsley and a teaspoonful of lemon juice. Sea-
son lightly with salt and pepper and spread over the
fish when removed from the bag. Set in the oven one
moment, then serve.
Parsley Butter. To make this delectable fish
sauce, mix one ounce fresh butter with a teaspoonful
each chopped parsley and lemon juice, half teaspoonful
chopped mixed tarragon and cress or chervil and salt
and pepper to season. Spread on a plate, set on the
ice until cold then shape into pats. This is nice with
Sauce Tartare. This is one of the standbys that no
housekeeper liable to the unexpected appearance of
guests should be without. It can be used in an emer-
gency for so many different things. It is delicious with
fish, cold or hot, broiled or deviled chicken, tongue, beef,
cauliflower or potato salad. It is easy to make, the only
essentials being good materials, everything cold, and the
oil added very slowly at first. After that it may be
poured in in larger quantities and more frequently. Mix
in a small bowl one half teaspoonful dry mustard, the
same amount each powdered sugar and salt, and a quar-
ter teaspoonful cayenne. Add the yolks of two fresh
eggs, and stir. Measure out a cupful of olive oil and
add a few drops at a time, stirring until it thickens. If
it begins to thicken too much to stir easily, thin with a
little lemon juice, adding oil and lemon alternately until
you have used all the oil and two tablespoonfuls of
lemon juice. Lastly beat in two tablespoonfuls of tar-
ragon or other vinegar. This gives the regular mayon-
naise, which should be smooth and thick. Now to make
46 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
it into sauce tartare, add one teaspoonful finely chopped
onion or onion juice, a tablespoonful of chopped pickle,
capers, olives and parsley, in any proportion desired.
You may use simply the sour cucumber pickle or part
pickle and olives, capers, etc. This may be kept for a
number of days in cold weather by keeping in glass and
in a cool place.
POULTRY AND GAME.
Capon. CAPON is the best of all poultry, having
been specially treated and fattened for the table. They
can be distinguished in the market by the head, tail and
wing feathers being left intact. They are always high
in price and considered great luxuries. They are cooked
the same as chicken. If to be stuffed, choose a delicate
dressing like oysters or chestnuts. Cut the neck off short
and remove the oil bag from the root of the tail. Singe
carefully, pluck out every lingering pin feather, wash
quickly with a rough, clean cloth and warm not hot
water ; dash cold water over it, let drain, then wipe care-
fully with a soft, damp cloth inside and out. Salt lightly
inside and dust with pepper, stuff with whatever dress-
ing you elect to have, truss, fasten thin slices of bacon or
salt pork over the breast and thighs, grease the entire
body liberally with soft butter or vegetable oils, put into
a loose fitting well-greased bag, breast down, seal, lay
on a trivet, set on broiler in hot oven, let cook till bag
corners turn very brown, then slack heat one-half, or
even a little more if the heat is fierce, and cook from an
hour and a half to an hour and three-quarters. The
capon should be a golden brown all over, except on the
back where it touches the bag and underneath the bacon
slices. But it will be as well done everywhere as in the
brown part. Cook the liver, gizzard and neck in a small
separate bag, wrapping each in a slice of bacon and sea-
48 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
soning them with salt and pepper. Add a very little
water, seal and put on to cook less than an hour before
dinner time. The slow heat will make them very tender.
Cooked with capon, they would be overdone. Serve
with sweet potatoes Southern style, or baked apples
Chicken with Parsnips. Wash, parboil and scrape
a quart of tender parsnips. Split a Spring chicken down
the back and lay in a buttered bag, skin side up. Ar-
range the sliced parsnips around the chicken, sprinkle
with salt and pepper, dot with bits of butter until a half
cup has been used, and top with two or three thin
slices of fat, salt pork. Put a half cup hot water in
the bag and bake to a delicate brown. Put the chicken
on a hot platter and arrange the parsnips around it.
Make a cream gravy from the drippings in the bag
and serve with mashed potatoes, currant jelly and beet
Chicken a la Baltimore. Take two small Spring
chickens, prepare as for broiling, but cut into joints.
Wipe dry, season well with salt and pepper, dip into
beaten egg, then cover well with bread crumbs. Place
in a well-buttered bag, pour a little melted butter or oil
over them and bake in the oven twenty or twenty-five
minutes. Serve with cream sauce and garnish with thin,
crisped slices of bacon and tiny corn oysters.
Chicken Croquettes. This may be made from left-
over cooked chicken or from canned chicken. For a
dozen croquettes allow one cupful of solid meat chopped
fine, a cupful of cream sauce, made by cooking together
four tablespoonfuls of butter and two of flour, then stir-
ring in a scant cupful of hot milk and cooking until
smooth and thick. Combine chicken and sauce, season
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 49
with half a teaspoonful each plain and celery salt, a
teaspoonful of onion juice, a little lemon juice and
chopped parsley. Mix thoroughly, then set the mixture
away to cool. When cool and stiff roll in finely pow-
dered bread crumbs so that every bit of the chicken is
covered and shape into cones, cutlets or cylinders. Have
ready a beaten egg to which a scant tablespoonful of
milk has been added, dip the croquettes in this, drain
well, roll in crumbs again, and again set aside to cool
and stiffen. When ready to cook, slip in well-buttered
bag and bake in a hot oven twenty minutes.
Paper Bagged Chicken. Split the chicken down
the middle of the back, spread flat, and put a skewer in
each side to prevent it from curling. Beat up a very
fresh egg, with a pinch of salt, black pepper to taste,
an ounce of melted butter, a teaspoonful of Worcester-
shire sauce or something similar and a teaspoonful of
made mustard. Mix well. With a brush glaze the
chicken with the mixture. Place in a greased bag with
bread crumbs around and over it. Be careful that the
skewers do not tear the bag. Seal up tight and cook
from thirty-five to forty minutes in a very hot oven.
Chicken Pie. Disjoint two chickens and cook until
tender in just enough water to cover. Remove all the
thick skin and the largest bones. Line a baking dish
with good paste, pack the chicken in layers and dust
each with salt, pepper and flour. Pour in enough of the
chicken liquor to come nearly to the top ; lay on a table-
spoon of butter and cover with a crust after cutting out
a piece as large as the top of a small cup. Moisten the
edges and press together, then ornament the top with
leaves cut from the trimmings of paste. Bag and bake
in a quick oven.
50 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
Paste for Chicken Pie. Sift five level teaspoons of
baking powder and one level teaspoon of salt with four
cups of flour and rub in one cup of butter until like
coarse meal. Mix with nearly two cups of milk or
enough to make a dough that can be rolled out. This
makes a more hygienic crust than where no baking
powder is used.
Chicken Rissoles. Chop fine two cupfuls chicken
and dressing or any scraps left. Add two spoonfuls
mashed potato, the beaten yolk of one egg, salt and
pepper to season. Roll in balls, dip in beaten egg yolk,
then in fine bread crumbs and place in paper bag. Bake
Roast Chicken. Cover the breast of the fowl OP
chicken with butter, drippings, or any refined vegetable
oil or tie a piece of fat bacon over it. Place in a bag
and set on broiler in a hot oven. Allow twenty-five
minutes for a small Spring chicken, thirty-five minutes
for a large fowl, forty-five to fifty minutes (according
to size) for stuffed poultry in a moderate oven.
Saute of Chicken With Mushrooms. Cut a young,
tender chicken into joints, trim off all projecting bones,
season with salt and pepper not too highly and brush
over with melted butter. Put into a well-buttered wooden
cook dish, with eight or twelve small mushrooms, cut in
slices. Add a pinch of herbs, a very small onion, and a
half gill of good white stock. Seal bag tight, give ten
minutes in a very hot oven, then thirty in moderate heat.
Take up on a hot dish and keep hot, while you make the
gravy. Take for the gravy the hot liquor from the bag,
put it in a bowl with the yolk of an egg beaten up in
half a gill of cream. Stir hard over hot water, but do
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 51
not let boil. When thoroughly blended, pour over the
chicken, garnish with chopped parsley, a few mush-
room heads and half moons of crisp puff paste. Serve
as hot as possible.
Smothered Chicken. Have a good sized broiler
cut into joints, taking care not to leave sharp bones pro-
jecting. Salt and pepper them lightly, dredge with
flour and lay in a well-greased bag upon thin slices of
bacon. Cover the chicken with more bacon slices, tak-
ing care to keep the chicken spread rather flat. Add
a tablespoonful of water or a couple of peeled and
sliced tomatoes. Shreds of green pepper add some-
what of flavor to the tomatoes. Seal in a bag and cook
for forty minutes, slacking the heat almost half after the
first five minutes. Serve on a hot dish with gravy from
Ducks With Banana Dressing. Wash with cold
salt water inside and out, drain, wipe dry and season
lightly with salt and pepper. Make a dressing of toast-
ed bread crumbs mixed with an equal quantity of ban-
ana. Cut in small pieces, well seasoned with chopped
celery, salt and pepper. Stuff, truss, grease all over
and tie slices of bacon over the breast. Put in a well
greased bag, add the juice of a lemon, and a wine glass
of sherry. Seal and put in a very hot oven. At the
end of fifteen minutes reduce heat one-half and cook for
fifty minutes longer.
Canvas Backs. Draw the ducks as soon as they are
received, pluck, singe and wipe them with a damp cloth,
but under no conditions wash them. When ready to
cook, truss, dust lightly with pepper, and salt and
spread them thickly with butter or vegetable oil. A very
slight dusting of flour should be given when they are
52 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
put into the oven. After eighteen minutes of intense
heat they are ready to serve, accompanied by toasted
hominy and black currant jelly.
Chicken, Italian Style. Chop fine one onion, one
small carrot, a stick of celery and a sprig of parsley.
Place in the bottom of one of the wooden cookery dishes
and season with salt, pepper and two tablespoonfuls of
olive oil. Lay a good sized broiling chicken cut into
joints on top of the vegetables, and around the chicken
a half dozen dried mushrooms that have been soaked
for fifteen minutes in cold water. Put in paper bag,
seal and bake forty-five minutes. Remove chicken to
hot platter, add a little tomato sauce to the vegetables
and stock remaining in the dish, pour over the chicken
Roast Wild Duck. If these come from salt marsK-
es, and have therefore a fishy taste, pick, dress scald a
moment in boiling salt water, then put in very cold
water for half an hour. Drain, wipe dry and having
cut a lemon in half rub all over inside and out with the
juice and pulp. Then grease the outside of the duck
with vegetable oil or butter, salt very lightly and put
in greased bag. Seal and roast in a moderate oven for
an hour. Serve with paper bag baked potatoes, tart
jelly and pickles.
Roast Wild Duck No. 2. Clean an'd singe your
duck; have a dish with boiling water enough to cover
same, in which you put a tablespoonful of salt and a
little carrot; parboil for only five minutes; then take
out and dry. Have apples peeled and cut in quarters;
stuff the duck with them. Slice bacon and wrap about
four slices around it, tied with a string, lay in a buttered
bag with a teacupful of water and a little salt and pep-
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 53
per and roast in a very hot oven for an hour. Make a
gravy from the drippings in bag thickened slightly and
seasoned with lemon juice, a little curry powder and
any good sauce.
Roast Wild Duck, Ohio Style. Dress the duck as
usual, then stuff with one quart of sauer kraut mixed
with one sweet apple sliced and a few mixed spices to
season. Place two stalks of celery in one of the wooden
cookery dishes, lay the duck on top, place in bag. Seal
and bake in a moderate oven for an hour and a half.
Frogs' Legs. Scald the legs in boiling hot water
for a minute or two, drain and wipe them dry, sprinkle
with salt and pepper, dip in beaten egg, roll in cracker
crumbs and put in a well-greased bag. The use of a
wood cookery dish is recommended. Bake fifteen min-
utes in a hot oven. Serve hot with points of toast and
slices of lemon placed around the platter.
Paper Bag Roast Goose. For roasting, a goose
should preferably be scarcely passed the gosling period,
not more than a year old at the most. Its wings should
be supple and tender at the pinions, its breast bone soft
and pliable. Its feet smooth and yellow, and its fat
white and soft. Before drawing, singe the bird, then give
it a thorough bath with soapsuds and a soft scrubbing
brush. The skin is so oily that cold water would make
no impression, and the skin is bound to be full of dust.
When purification is complete, rinse thoroughly in clear
cold water, then dry and draw. Wash the inside
quickly with clear water to which a little baking soda
has been added, then rinse and wipe. The Germans are
partial to a stuffing made of equal parts of bread crumbs,
chopped apples, seeded raisins and boiled onions well
seasoned with salt, pepper and butter. Americans as a
rule give the preference to a potato stuffing made of
54 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
mashed potato highly seasoned with onion, salt, pepper
and a little butter and sage. The yolks of two eggs al-
lowed to each pint of potato makes the dressing richer.
Before trussing the goose, remove all the extra fat.
This should be saved and tried out later for that sover-
eign remedy for croup, " goose grease." It is of no
value, however, in cooking and if left in the bird, gives a
coarse, rank flavor. Season the goose on the inside with
salt and pepper, then stuff and truss it into shape like
a turkey. Rub over lightly with vegetable oil or butter,
or cover the breast with several thin slices of fat salt
pork. This keeps the skin moist. Put into a well-
greased bag of goodly proportions, or better still, two
bags, add a tablespoonful of cold water, seal and set in
a very hot oven for fifteen minutes. Then reduce the
heat about half and cook until done, allowing twenty-two
minutes to the pound. Serve with apples baked in a
bag, mashed turnips or squash and hot corn bread that
can also be cooked in a bag.
Sage and Potato Stuffing. Should you give the
preference to the old-fashioned potato-and-sage stuffing,
Such as your grandmother used to make, fashion it in
this way: peel and boil for half an hour a half dozen
good-sized potatoes. Mash well and season with one
tablespoonful salt, and a teaspoonful pepper, two table-
spoonfuls of white onions minced fine, and cooked in a
tablespoonful of butter and a teaspoonful of sage. Mix
lightly and stuff.
Bag Roasted Young Guinea Fowl. It is but a few
years ago comparatively that the excellence of the
guinea fowl for the table was duly recognized. Most
people were afraid to try them. Now the guinea is not
only being served in all the best restaurants, but in many
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 55
private homes as well. While the young guineas make
the choicest eating, the old birds are not to be despised.
In stuffing the guinea any approved turkey stuffing may
be used, the accompaniments being as with turkey, gib-
let gravy and cranberry sauce. In roasting a very little
water goes into the bag, instead thin pieces of fat, salt
pork are skewered across the breast and around the drum
Bag Broiled Young Guinea Hen. For bag broil-
ing, split down the back and flatten. Brush over with
vegetable oil or melted butter, put in buttered bag and
bake in gas oven or hot coal oven. Lay on a hot platter,
season with salt and pepper, spread with a rounding
tablespoonful butter stirred with a tablespoonful finely
minced parsley, garnish with watercress and little
moulds or spoonfuls of cranberry jelly and serve.
Quail. As for cooking quail there is no better way
than to roast them plain, with plenty of red pepper and
a little salt. For those who prefer, an excellent way is
to serve them with bacon, which supplies the fat which
all game birds lack.
Take a half dozen quail, wipe with a damp cloth,
split them and break the leg bones. Mix together a tea-
spoonful of pure olive or cotton seed oil, a dash of cay-
enne and a tiny bit of salt. Brush the birds with this mix-
ture and put in well greased bag, seal, put in oven and
roast fifteen minutes. Arrange six slices of delicately
browned toast on a hot platter, place the birds on the
slices and baste with a mixture of good butter, minced
parsley and the juice of a half dozen lemons. Garnish
with slices of crisped bacon and watercress.
Quail No. 2. Place four quail in a wooden dish with
a link of sausage between the birds and a strip of bacon
56 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
laid on each. Put in bag, seal, and bake twenty-five
Stuffed Quail. Put into each bird a half prune or
fat raisin, with a bit of butter and a few well seasoned
bread crumbs. Wrap each bird in a slice of bacon,
fastening with string or tooth picks and put in well but-
tered bag. Seal and place on broiler and bake about
twenty-five minutes, reducing the heat during the last
half of the time.
Rabbit Cookery. In selecting a rabbit the principal
thing is to find out the age and also how long hung. A
rabbit should be ripe but not gamy. Unless in cold
storage, they should not be kept for more than two or
three days. The age of a rabbit may be determined by
testing the paw. If there is a little nut there and the
paw may be broken readily between the thumb and
finger the rabbit is young. If the nut has disappeared
and the paw resists pressure, the rabbit is too venerable
for anything but a stew. In dressing a rabbit there is a
little secret that enables the cook to dispose of the
gamy odor that so many object to. If the thin, muscu-
lar membrane that extends from the flank over the in-
testines is carefully removed before cooking, the strong
flavor will go with it, leaving the flesh delightfully
sweet. The gall bladder in the liver must also be re-
moved with extreme care, so as not to break it.
Barbecued Rabbit. Open plump young rabbits all
the way down the under side, wash and clean thoroughly.
Lay out flat in a pan of salt and water for an hour, with
a weighted plate or saucer on top to hold under the
water. Wipe dry and gash across the backbone in eight
or ten places and having brushed it over with olive oil
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 57
or melted butter, bag and bake in a hot oven forty-five
Lay on a hot dish, season with salt, pepper and plenty
of melted butter, then set in the oven for the butter to
soak in. Heat in a small cup two tablespoonfuls vine-
gar with one of made mustard and brush over the rabbit
while boiling hot. Garnish with parsley and watercress
and serve alone or with a currant jelly sauce.
Roast Rabbit. Stuff, truss, dredge with flour and
rub all over with vegetable oil, soft butter or good drip-
pings. Season lightly with salt and paprika or black
pepper, place in wood cookery dish in well greased bag,
seal and place in hot oven. Allow fifty minutes, reducing
the heat at the end of the first twenty minutes.
Roast Rabbit No. 2. For an older rabbit, put into
a stew kettle whole without dividing the pieces from the
body. Pour in one quart of water, add a little pinch of
soda when it starts to boil, and stew gently until tender.
When tender take from the broth. Meantime mix to-
gether three large cupfuls dried bread crumbs, butter
the size of a walnut and salt, pepper and sage to taste.
Pour enough of the broth over this to mix rather soft.
Stuff the rabbit, spread with butter, sprinkle with salt
and pepper, lay in a buttered bag and bake to a rich
brown in a moderate oven. It will not take more than a
few moments. Make a good brown gravy, adding onion
browned in butter if desired. A little onion may also be
added to the dressing, according to preference.
Stewed Rabbit. Cut in eight pieces, salt and pepper
and put in buttered wooden dish, set in a buttered
bag with a finely chopped onion, a bunch of
sweet herbs, a quarter cupful stock or hot water
and a tablespoonful of flour stirred smooth with
58 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
a little cold water, then blended with the hot. Seal the
bag and bake forty-five minutes in a hot oven.
Reed Birds. Most of the reed birds obtained in our
markets are in reality nothing but sparrows, and those
undrawn. If fed on grain, as they are in Chicago, they
are really very nice. To bake, wrap each one in a thin
slice of bacon or salt pork, put in buttered bag, seal
and cook in a quick oven. Still more delectable are they
cooked en surprise. For a half dozen covers, prepare
the same number of birds, six large oval potatoes, six
oysters, and some thin slices of bacon. Prepare the
birds as for roasting, and tuck into each little interior an
oyster, seasoned with salt and pepper. Then wrap each
bird in a slice of bacon. Now, having the potatoes well
scrubbed, cut off one end, and using a vegetable scoop,
cut out a hollow in each large enough to hold a bird,
Insert the bird, replace the end of the potato, cut off, tie
in place, put in buttered bag and bake in a moderate
oven. Serve as soon as done, removing the string. The
flavor of the bird, oysters and potato makes a delicious
combination that cannot be surpassed. Serve simply
with butter, or if preferred, a mushroom or oyster sauce.
Squab. In cleaning a squab, take care not to break
the little sack that holds the entrails. Split the birds
down the back, rub with salt, pepper and butter or oil.
Sprinkle with cracker dust and put into well-buttered
bag. Bake fifteen minutes and serve on slices of crisp,
hot, buttered toast with or without a thin, crispy slice
of bacon. Garnish with cress or parsley.
Barbecued Squirrel, (Southern Style.) Get two
fat squirrels, skin and draw. Cut the thin skin on each
side of the stomach close to the ribs, then wipe with
STANDARD PAPER; BAG COOKERY 59
damp cloth. Sprinkle with black pepper but use no salt.
Put a layer of fat bacon in a wooden dish, set in a well
greased bag and lay the squirrels on this bed. Cover
with more thin slices of bacon pour in the bag a half
cupful good broth, seal, and bake an hour in a moderate
oven. Serve with grape jelly or spiced grapes.
Turkey a la Bonham. Pick out a young hen tur-
key, plump and delicate with small bones. Carefully re-
move all pin feathers and complete the drawing which
may have been imperfectly done by the butcher. Cut off
the neck close to the body which will make the turkey
fit in the bag better, and make a proper appearance
when placed on the table. Wash thoroughly inside and
out and wipe dry. For the stuffing make two kinds one
for the body and one for the breast. It is a good plan
to make these different so as to suit all tastes. For the
body, make a chestnut stuffing. Boil and peel one quart
of large chestnuts and mash with a fork. Season with
pepper, salt and a little butter. For the breast, take a
pint of bread crumbs free from crusts. Fry a half onion
cut fine in a very little butter or vegetable oil until ten-
der but not brown. Season nicely with chopped parsley
and thyme, not too much. Salt and pepper and moisten
with one beaten egg. Fill the breast and sew body and
breast neatly, pulling the skin of the breast over the
stuffing, and fastening in place with the wings which
should be turned back to hold the skin in place. Rub
the outside of the bird with flour mixed with salt and
pepper, cover the breast with slices of fat salt pork tied
on. Now slip breast down into a thoroughly greased bag
or preferably two bags, one outside the other,
the outside one also well greased. Lay some
of the fat from the turkey or a few strips of bacon
over the bag, and put on the grate, seam up. Slip under
60 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
the grid on the bottom of the oven a dripping pan half
full of water to keep the bird moist, and prevent any fat
leaking through in case the bag should burst. Be care-
ful not to let the bag touch the side of the oven. Light
both burners of the gas stove for five minutes to get the
oven hot for the start. Turn out one and roast about an
hour and three-quarters for a twelve pound bird. Lift
out carefully, sliding the pancake turner under it to get
it out easily and put it on hot platter.
For the gravy, clean the giblets thoroughly and put to
cook with the neck in water to cover well. Add one
onion cut up and cook until tender. Chop fine and
thicken slightly with browned flour or caramel which is
simply sugar browned in a pan with a little boiling
Venison. For roasting, the saddle is best. As the
meat is naturally dry, it must be well larded with strips
of firm fat pork. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and rub
over with pork drippings. Put in large well greased
bag, add two glasses of port or claret, seal and bake in
moderate oven. For a roast of three pounds, allow an
hour and ten minutes. For an eight pound roast, two
hours and a half. Serve very hot with red or black cur-
Venison Steak. Prepare in the regular way, place
in wooden cookery dish and season with salt and pepper.
Put in bag. Seal and cook an hour and twenty minutes.
The wooden dishes add to the flavor of all game.
Bullock's Heart.- THIS is an inexpensive portion of
the beef, but a very tasty one when properly cooked. It
should always be served on very hot dishes, both plates
and platter. If you elect to roast your heart, put in a
basin of warm water and let soak for an hour to draw
out the blood. Wipe dry, brush with oil or butter and
tie or skewer in shape. Put in well greased bag and
roast about two hours. Serve with a border of carrots
sliced and fried.
Stewed Bullock's Heart. Soak in a basin of warm
water for an hour, then drain and wipe dry. Cut in
halves, rub each side with flour and put in a frying pan
with a little hot butter. As soon as browned, transfer to
a buttered bag, adding four or five onions sliced and
browned lightly in the same butter, together with a sprig
of thyme and salt and pepper to season. Add a half cup-
ful of water and cook slowly about three hours.
Filet of Beef. Cut from the end of a tenderloin o
beef, slices about 5-8 of an inch thick. Flatten down to
about 3-8 of an inch and trim round. Salt lightly on
both sides, dust with pepper, and lay in a little hot
melted butter, flavored with a tiny scraping of garlic for
an hour, turning three or four times in the meantime.
Take out, put in a well buttered bag, seal and cook
twenty-five minutes. Serve on small pieces of toast that
have been spread with butter and browned in a bag,
pouring over them the juice of the meat that will have
collected in the bag.
62 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
Hamburg Steak. Hamburg steak, which is too of-
ten a delusion and a snare as furnished by the inexperi-
enced cook, can be so manipulated in paper bag cookery
as to emerge a very delectable and decorative dish. In
the first place never telephone for hamburg steak nor
buy that already chopped and mounded ostentatiously
on a platter with a garnish of parsley. Naturally the
butcher works up his trimmings and inferior cuts into
this comparatively inexpensive and much patronized
form. Having purchased your cut of round steak in the
slice, its lack of natural fat must be made up by the addi-
tion of a little beef suet (preferably from the kidney).
A piece of suet the size of a butter nut may be allowed
to each pound of lean meat. Next, if possible, get the
butcher to chop it by hand rather than by the easier-to-
him method of running it through the meat grinder. Now
having your good meat at home it may be prepared in
any one of a half dozen ways. For the Hamburg steaks,
press lightly together into cakes about the size of a chop.
If onion is desired a little onion juice may be added
with discretion, but for most tastes boiled onions served
separately, to accompany the steak, will be found pre-
ferable, or a few rings of raw onion added to a lettuce
salad. The closely packed Hamburg steak is bound to
be tough and dry. Better add a beaten egg to hold the
chopped meat together than press the small and delicate
particles of meat compactly.
Season lightly, brush over with oil or melted butter
and lay in buttered bag. Seal and roast for half an
hour. Take up on a hot platter, season, add a little
melted butter mixed with finely chopped parsley and
serve hot with baked or mashed potatoes. A tomato
sauce may go with the steaks or a brown gravy made
from beef stock. A pleasant change in the appearance
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 63
of Hamburg steak can be effected by shaping it. to
look like lamb chops. When these are bag broiled with
a bit of marcaroni in each end to simulate the chop bone
they can be arranged to stand on a bed of parsley
stacked against a pretty bowl containing tomato sauce
or stewed tomato, a spoonful of which is to be served
with each portion. The bed on which the chops are to
rest may be mashed potato or peas, if preferred to the
Pot Roast. While this does not eliminate washing
the pot, the juices and flavor of the beef are so con-
served that instead of the usual dry pot-roast it is moist
and tender and so well worth the trouble.
Peel and slice a good sized onion and brown in a
round bottomed iron pot with a piece of beef suet. Wash
a four or five pound piece of bottom round, place in the
pot without any water and brown quickly on all sides,
turning it without piercing with a fork. When very
brown add a small cup of water, push it back and let
simmer for one hour, turning frequently. Season and
cook for ten minutes longer, then place it in a well
greased bag, seal and put in a hot oven on a broiler, add-
ing about a cupful of the liquid in which it was cooking,
before sealing. Reduce the heat of the oven after ten
minutes and cook an hour and a half to two hours ac-
cording to size. Potatoes may be peeled and browned
in the gravy left in the pot. When done, the liquid in
the bag should be added to that in the pot and thick-
ened for gravy, first skimming off the fat if too rich.
Rib Roast of Beef. Grease the roast lightly with
idrippings or vegetable oil, season with pepper, but not
with salt, dust lightly with flour and place in well
greased bag, seal, and place in a hot oven, at the end
64 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
of fifteen minutes, reduce the heat one-half and continue
cooking for half an hour longer in case of a three pound
roast or for a seven pound one, a little over an hour.
Roast Round of Beef in Paper Bag. Get three or
four pounds of beef from top round, asking the butcher
for a high chunky piece not a slab from the tenderest,
juiciest part. Have him tie it up securely and add a
piece of suet. Well grease the bag inside. Season and
flour the meat, place a small piece of suet on top, insert
in bag, fasten with paper clips, and put on a broiler in
a hot oven, reducing the heat after about five minutes.
Allow fifteen minutes for each pound. It will be a rich
brown on the outside but rare and juicy. With an ex-
ceptionally sharp carving knife the meat should be cut
in very thin, appetizingly rare and tender slices.
This is a most economical and nutritious roast, having
no waste in bones and trimmings, and if cut from good
beef is as delicious as a porterhouse roast.
Sauer Braten. Rub a solid piece of the round of
beef with vinegar, dust lightly with salt and pepper and
a bit of bay leaf rubbed to a powder. Let the meat
stand over night or twelve hours. Cut several slashes
in the meat, put in two small onions cut in quarters and
two carrots cut in strips and the same amount of turnip.
Dust a pinch of poultry seasoning or sweet herbs over.
Lay three thin slices of salt pork in the well greased
paper bag, add a half cupful boiling water and if there
is room in the bag tuck in a few more carrots or onions.
Seal and place in a very hot oven for eight minutes,
then reduce the heat at least half, and cook about two
hours. Have a dripping pan with an inch of water in it,
set under the oven rack so that if by any mischance the
bag should burst, nothing would be lost. The steam
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 65
from the water in the pan serves the same purpose as
wetting the bag before filling, keeping it from becoming
too brittle. Two bags will be found better than one in
Beef Steak. Wipe the meat, trim off extra fat and
brush over with oil or butter. Season lightly with salt
and pepper, put in well-greased bag, seal, place on
grid in very hot oven and cook from fifteen to eighteen
minutes, according to thickness of steak. At the last,
pierce a few holes in the top of the bag, if there is any
doubt about the steak being sufficiently browned. Take
up on hot platter and spread with parsley butter, pour-
ing any gravy remaining in the pan over the meat.
Toledo Beef Steak. Place a top sirloin steak in a
wood cookery dish, season with salt and pepper and
place in bag. Seal and cook twenty minutes. Remove
from the oven, open the bag and turn the steak. Spread
over the top a little dry mustard and season with salt,
pepper, two tablespoonfuls of drawn butter and a large
tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce. Place on the
top grate of the oven without the bag, and leave ten or
fifteen minutes until crisp and brown.
Stuffed Roast Beef or " Mock Duck." Take two
flank steaks or one large round steak. If the former,
sew together with coarse strong cotton, leaving one side
open like a bag to be filled with the dressing. If the
latter, place on the meat board and spread with a dress-
ing made from mashed potato, well seasoned, sweet po-
tatoes sliced and seasoned, or a forcemeat made from two
cupfuls bread crumbs, a quarter cup butter or vege-
table oil, in which a chopped onion has been cooked,
with salt, pepper and cloves to season. The Germans
like a half cupful of seeded raisins or chopped prunes
66 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
added to this. Roll the meat about the filling and tie
with strips of cotton cloth, or if you are using the flank
steak, stuff the pocket and tie in shape. Butter the
pocket or roll well on the outside, slip into a large well
buttered bag, add a tablespoonful of broth or hot water,
seal, and cook in a hot oven ten minutes.
Reduce the heat and cook forty or fifty minutes more
according to weight of the steak. A second bag over
the first is advised here when the roll is heavy.
LAMB AND MUTTON.
THE paper bag seems made expressly for lamb and
Breast of Lamb With Tomato Sauce. Get three
pounds breast of lamb, boil until tender, and slip out the
bones. This is best done the day before you are to bag
it. Half an hour before serving, egg, crumb, season and
put in a well greased bag. Seal and put in a very hot
oven for twenty minutes. Serve with tomato sauce.
Lamb Chops. If you use the rib chops have them
frenched, saving the trimmings for the stock pot. If you
have the loin chops, skewer to keep in shape. Season
with salt and pepper and brush over with oil or melted
butter. Put in a well-greased bag, seal, place on the
grid shelf in a hot oven, and cook for ten or fifteen min-
utes according to the thickness of the chop. When done
put on a hot platter and spread with parsley or mint
Lamb or Mutton Cutlets With Tomatoes. Cut
the best end of the neck into neat cutlets, flatten and
trim. Season with salt and pepper, brush with melted
butter or oil, sprinkle with mint or chopped parsley and
chives, and place in a buttered bag, with a tablespoonful
of tomato on each chop. Seal and cook in hot oven
twelve or fifteen minutes.
68 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
Lamb Fry. Wash thoroughly a pound and a half of
lamb's fry and put in a pan of cold water. Simmer five
minutes, lift out and pat dry on a soft cloth. Divide in
nice pieces, dip in a batter made of one egg, one table-
spoonful of milk, salt and pepper to season and flour
to make of the consistency of cream. Arrange these
pieces in a buttered bag. Seal and bake ten minutes.
Serve with fried parsley.
Lamb's Kidney. > Skin, split, dip in butter and place
on skewer. Dust with salt and pepper, and place in
buttered bag. Seal, place in hot oven and cook eight
Leg of Mutton Cooked in Cider. Buy the leg of
mutton two or three days before you wish to serve it.
Take off the " woolly " skin that has the strong taste on
the outside and wipe carefully with a damp cloth. Then
rub with a mixture of spices, using half a teaspoonful
each of cinnamon, cloves, allspice, pepper and nutmeg.
Rub thoroughly and hang the mutton in a cool place for
two days; then put in a well-greased bag, adding four
onions chopped fine, a cupful seedless raisins and a cup-
ful of sweet cider. Put in hot oven and bake half an
hour, then reduce the heat, and cook an hour and a half.
Serve with a hot cider sauce.
Mutton Chops and Sausage. Place two thick chops
in a wooden dish with three links of sausage. Season
lightly with salt and pepper, lay two strips of bacon
over the top of the chops and seal in bag. Bake from
twenty minutes to half an hour in a moderate oven.
Ragout of Lamb. Grease the bag well, and lay in a
layer of sliced raw potatoes, seasoned lightly. Put on
top of the potatoes a layer of meat, seasoned with salt,
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 69
pepper and chopped parsley, and lay thin slices of onion
across meat. Add one-half cup canned tomato or to-
mato sauce, cover the whole with another layer of sliced
potato, seal, and bake thirty-five minutes. You may use
a wooden cooking dish here to advantage.
Roast Leg of Lamb. Trim nicely and rub over
with oil, dredge with a little flour and season with salt,
pepper and powdered mint. Seal and bake two hours.
Serve with mint sauce.
A Genuine Irish Stew. Cut two pounds of chops
from the best end of a neck of mutton, and pare away
nearly all the fat. A portion of the breast may be cut
into squares and used, but a neck of mutton is the best
joint for the purpose. Take as many potatoes as will
amount after peeling to twice the weight of the meat.
Slice them with eight large onions sliced. Put a layer
of mixed potatoes and onions at the bottom of the but-
tered paper bag. Place the meat on this and season it
plentifully with pepper and lightly with salt. Pack
closely, and cover the meat with another layer of potato
and onion. Pour in as much water or stock as will
moisten the topmost layer, seal tightly, and let the con-
tents cook gently for two and a half hours. You may use
one of the large wooden cooking dishes here.
PORK IN VARIED FORMS.
Bacon and Apples. CORE, but do not peel, well
flavored apples and cut in crosswise rings about a quar-
ter of an inch thick. Lay on thin slices of streaky bacon
in a well buttered bag, dust lightly with sugar, seal and
cook eight minutes in a hot oven.
Bacon and Bananas. Peel firm bananas, halve them
lengthwise, dust lightly with pepper and wrap each in a
thin slice of streaky bacon. Put in a well greased bag,
seal and cook in a hot oven ten minutes.
Bacon and Calf's Liver. Pour boiling water over
thin slices of calf's liver and let stand ten minutes.
Drain, pat dry and dredge with flour, seasoning with
pepper and a little salt. Lay slices of bacon in a greas-
ed bag and on top put a layer of the liver, seal and bake
fifteen minutes. Serve on hot platter.
Baked Pork Chops. Season with salt and pepper,
then cover each side of the chops with a forcemeat made
moist enough to stick to them. Place in a well greased
bag, adding a spoonful of water, seal and bake twenty-
Pork Chops and Sweet Potatoes. Select six sweet
potatoes of uniform size. Peel, cut in half lengthwise,
brush each piece all over with melted butter and dredge
lightly with powdered sugar. Place in a thoroughly
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 71
buttered bag flat side down. On top of them put pork
chops, seasoned, rolled in flour and from which the fat
has been partly trimmed. Seal and bake in hot oven
on broiler for twenty-five minutes.
Pork chops cooked in this way are as tender as
chicken, not hard in fibre as they usually are when
Ham and Scalloped Potatoes. Peel and slice po-
tatoes very thin. Put a layer in the bottom of a buttered
bag and on top of the potatoes a layer of raw ham sliced
very thin, and with the most of the fat trimmed off.
Sprinkle with a little flour. Add little bits of butter
rolled in flour and salt and pepper to season. Proceed
in this way until the desired amount is obtained, having
the top layer of potatoes sprinkled with flour and bits of
butter. Turn in enough sweet milk or cream to come
even with the top layer, and bake twenty minutes or un-
til the potatoes are tender. The trimmings from the fat
of the ham can be used in place of the butter if pre-
ferred. One of the wooden cooking dishes is convenient
1 Ham, Spinach and Lamb Chops. Place two or
more slices of ham in a wood cookery dish. Spread over
it the contents of a small can of spinach and on top
of the spinach place Frenched lamb chops. Put in
greased paper bag, and surround by six potatoes pre-
pared for baking. Close the bag, and bake 45 minutes
in a moderate oven. This makes a very easy dinner
as the whole meal can be cooked in the oven without hav-
ing to be watched and the mistress of the house can
be ready dressed to entertain guests without danger of
spoiling her frock by spattering grease.
72 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
Stuffed Fresh Ham or Shoulder. Have tlie
knuckle and bone removed, wash, wipe dry, season with
salt and pepper and fill the bone space with a forcemeat
to which apples or stewed prunes have been added. Sew
or skewer into shape, then lay skin side up in a large,
well greased bag. Add a half cup of water or cider, a
few slices of onion, seal and bake for fifteen minutes in
a very hot oven, then reduce the heat one-half and bake
Roast Loin of Pork. Sprinkle with salt and pep-
per, dredge lightly with flour and put into a greased bag
with a half cup of water or tomato. Seal and bake an
hour and a half. Serve with apples baked in another
Roast Spare-Rib. Cut the skin of the spare-rib in
checks, season with salt and pepper and put in a well-
greased bag surrounded by apples or sweet potatoes cut
in halves, and bake three-quarters of an hour.
Baked Sausage With Apples. Put links of sau-
sage or sausage cakes in greased bag, and surround with
well flavored apples cored and cut in halves but not
peeled. Stand the apples flesh side down. Seal and
bake fifteen minutes.
Baked Sausage and Potato. Get the best country
sausage meat and mould into a little roll. Dust lightly
with flour and put into a well greased bag. Peel enough
potatoes to make a wall about the meat and cut them in
halves. They should stand with the cut side against the
meat. Seal the bag and bake about thirty minutes until
the potatoes are tender and brown and the sausage well
done. If desired, use the drippings that come from the
sausage as the foundation for a cream gravy to serve
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 73
with the sausage or serve without Sausage cooked in
this way is also nice sliced cold and makes appetizing
sandwiches for the school lunch basket.
Baked Sausage With Toast. Put a half dozen link
sausages in a well-greased bag, separating them by
as many slices of bread cut the same height. Add a half
cup of good brown sauce and a few mushrooms if desired.
Seal and bake twelve minutes. Serve with the sauce
and a little minced parsley sprinkled over the sausage.
Baked Sausage With Tomatoes. Put into the
greased bag sausage cakes or links. Chop fine one small
onion, a teaspoonf ul of parsley and two tomatoes, spread
over the sausage, seal and cook twenty minutes.
Tenderloin of Pork. Get fat, large tenderloins and
have them split, but leave connected down the side. Fill
with a good forcemeat or potato dressing well seasoned,
skewer the edges together or tie with string, put in well
greased bag adding a tablespoonful of water and bake
twenty minutes. Serve with curried apples, made in this
way and baked in another bag at the same time. Peel
and core the apples and fill the cavities with a mixture of
curry powder, grated cheese and fine breadcrumbs. For
eight apples use four tablespoon fuls and a half of curry
powder and eight of the bread crumbs. Moisten the
mixture with milk. Bag, seal and bake. These apples
are nice served cold with cold roast pork.
Baked Calf's Liver. ONE calf's liver washed and
dried, slashed and scored inside. Have bread dressing
ready well seasoned with onions. Stuff the liver with
this and tie with cord. Skewer to liver with toothpicks
several pieces of bacon, put a little hot water in the bag
and bake at least one hour in a hot over. Send to table
hot, with a parsley garnish.
Calves' Brains in Tempting But Inexpensive
Ways. Carefully prepared few can tell the difference
between sweetbreads and calves' brains though the
housewife will appreciate the fact that sweetbreads cost
about four times as much as the brains. In whichever
way one elects to cook the brains, the preliminary treat-
ment is the same. Parboil fifteen minutes in water, to
which has been added a teaspoonful of salt and a table-
spoonful of vinegar. After this, let them lie in cold
water a few moments, then remove all membranes and
dark streaks. They are now ready to be cooked in any
Breaded Brains. Separate the lobes of a pair of
brains that have been parboiled as directed. Then with
a sharp knife split each division. Beat the yolk of an
egg lightly, thin slightly with cold water or milk, dip the
brains in this, then into finely rolled crumbs. Put in a
buttered bag and bake twenty minutes. Serve on a hot
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 75
dish with a garnish of quarters of lemon that have been
rolled in finely minced parsley.
Sweetbreads. The initial treatment of sweet-
breads, when they come from the market, is always the
same. Parboil at once in salted water, from fifteen to
thirty minutes, never allowing them to boil. Then
plunge into ice water and lemon juice or vinegar (a
tablespoonful to a quart of water) and leave for an hour
to blanch and become firm. After parboiling, the little
strings and membranes can be very readily removed.
Now they are ready for the finishing culinary touch,
in anyway the cook may elect.
Baked Sweetbreads. Sprinkle with salt and pep-
per, roll in crumbs then beaten egg to which a spoonful
of milk has been added, then in crumbs again, the last
time having the crumbs well buttered. Put in greased
bag and bake half an hour in a moderately hot oven.
Serve on toast with the brown gravy poured over the
Sweetbreads With Bacon. Slice sweetbreads, roll
in seasoned crumbs, then in egg and again in crumbs.
Put on a skewer, alternating with slices of bacon cut
thin, put in a greased bag, and bake twenty minutes in
Larded Sweetbreads. Lard the boiled sweetbreads
with strips of bacon and lemon peel, having the bacon in
the centre and peel on the sides. Lay in paper bag with
brown gravy to half cover, and let them bake for an
hour, or until brown. Arrange on a hot dish, thicken the
gravy with a little flour and season with catsup, lemon
juice and spices to taste. Pour over the sweetbreads and
serve with peas.
76 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
Sweetbreads Straight. Parboil the sweetbreads,
take off the skins, dust each sweetbread with salt and
pepper very lightly and pour over each a tablespoonful
of cream. Slip the sweetbreads into a thickly greased
bag and cook in a moderate oven slowly for forty min-
utes. Serve on a hot dish with a border of asparagus or
Vealettes. Purchase veal cuts from the leg in slices
as large as one's hand and about half an inch thick. On
each slice lay a large tablespoonful of dressing made
from seasoned bread crumbs, a beaten egg and a table-
spoonful of melted butter. Roll up the slices, pinning
with toothpicks to keep the dressing in. Put in a well
greased bag, seal and bake about three-quarters of an
hour. When done, thicken the gravy, pour over the veal
and serve on a hot platter.
A variation in vealettes is made by getting from the
butcher two slices of veal and a slice of ham the same
size. Put together like a sandwich with the ham in the
center and skewer together. Trim the edges evenly and
bake in a bag. When the veal is done take up on a hot
platter, thicken the drippings remaining in the bag, add-
ing enough hot water to make a good consistency.
Veal Loaf. Mince three pounds raw lean veal and
a quarter pound of fine fat pork, salt or fresh. Season
with half an onion, grated fine, a tablespoonful of salt,
a half teaspoonful of pepper, a half teaspoonful pow-
dered thyme, quarter of a spoonful sweet marjoram, the
same amount Summer savory and a saltspoonful celery
salt. Next mix in two-thirds of a cup of rolled cracker
crumbs, a scant cupful veal gravy or hot milk, the yolk of
one egg and the whites of two beaten together until light.
Mix thoroughly and form into a compact loaf. Roll it
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 77
until coated in yolks of the two eggs left over, then in
sifted cracker or bread crumbs, and put in buttered bag
and bake in a moderate oven. Roast two hours and
serve cold, cut in very thin slices.
Shoulder of Veal Stuffed and Braised.^-Buy a
shoulder of veal and ask the butcher to bone it and send
the bones with the meat. Cover the bones with cold
water and when it comes to a boil, skim, then add a little
onion and carrot, a few seasoning herbs and any
spices desired. Simmer gently for an hour or so until
you have a pint of stock. To make the stuffing, take a
stale loaf, cut off the crust and soak in a little cold water
until soft. Rub the crumb of the loaf as fine as possible
in the hands, then add to the soaked and softened crust.
Chop a half cupful of suet fine, put into a frying pan a
tablespoonful of the suet, and when hot add an onion
chopped fine. Cook until brown, then add to the bread
with regular poultry seasoning or else salt, pepper and
a bit of thyme. Mix well and stuff the cavity in the
shoulder, then pull the flaps of the meat over and sew
up. Put the rest of the suet in the frying pan, and hav-
ing dusted the meat with flour, salt, pepper and a
sprinkling of sugar, brown on all sides in the fat. Into
the bottom of the bag put a layer of thin sliced onion
and carrot, a bit of bay leaf and sprigs of parsley, and
on this lay the meat. Add two or three cloves, pour the
hot stock around it, cover closely and braise in a hot
oven for two and a half hours.
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
Bignon's Sauce. THIS is a delightful appetizer
with meats cold or hot, or with fish. Chop fine equal
parts, say one tablespoonful of each, capers, parsley,
chives, gherkins, tarragon and green Chili peppers.
Mix together; season with salt, pepper and cayenne and
cover with tarragon vinegar; let it stand an hour and
add three tablespoonful s of oil and a teaspoonful of
Bread Sauce. Mince an onion and boil in milk until
soft. Then strain the milk over one cupful of grated
bread crumbs and stand aside, closely covered, for an
hour. Add the minced onion, two tablespoonfuls
of butter, pepper, salt and a bit of mace to season. Set
over the fire, boil up and serve with roasted or broiled
Brown Sauce. The formula for this is the same as
for the white sauce, except that the butter and fat are
browned before the flour is added, or browned flour is
used for thickening. Use a little more flour proportion-
ately, in a brown sauce, as the browning destroys, in a
measure, the thickening qualities of the flour. Reduce
with brown stock or water.
With this as foundation, any number of palatable
sauces can be invented which will be found useful in dis-
posing of many odds and ends of vegetables, cold meats
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 79
and left-over fish, that might otherwise "go begging."
Celery Sauce. Prepare a smooth, white sauce by
blending over the fire two tablespoonfuls each butter,
and flour, then reducing with a pint of warm milk. Add
a dozen stalks of celery that have been minced fine and
cooked tender in just enough water to cover. Cook two
minutes, season with salt and pepper and serve with
Currant Jelly Sauce. This makes a delicious addi-
tion to roast venison or mutton. Cook together in a
saucepan one tablespoonful butter and a teaspoonful
minced onion. When the onion is lightly colored, (not
blackened) add a teaspoonful of flour and stir until
smooth. Add gradually a half cupful stock, stirring all
the time, and when it boils up add a bit of bay leaf, a
teaspoonful vinegar, a half teaspoonful salt, and eighth
teaspoonful pepper, one clove, and a tablespoonful of
currant jelly. Simmer five minutes, strain and serve
Curry Sauce. This is nice with any delicate meat
or fish or can be poured over boiled rice for a side
dish. Put two tablespoonfuls butter in a saucepan, then
stir into it two tablespoonfuls flour. Add a scant table-
spoonful curry powder and a teaspoonful onion juice,
and cook a moment or two, but do not allow them to
brown. Stir in gradually one cupful milk and cook until
smooth and thickened. Add a cup of cream, season with
salt and just before serving, add, if you like, a hard
boiled egg chopped fine.
Hollandaise Sauce. Put one-half cup of butter in-
to a bowl of cold water and wash it to take out the salt.
Divide it into three parts and put one-third into the top
80 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
of a double boiler with the yolks of two eggs and a
tablespoon of lemon juice. Stir and cook until the but-
ter melts, add another piece of butter and continue stir-
ring. As the sauce thickens stir in the last piece, add
one-third cup of boiling water, a speck of cayenne and
a saltspoon of salt and cook one minute.
Horseradish Sauce. Put a saucepan over the
fire with a tablespoonful of butter and a half tablespoon-
ful of floor. Stir and cook two minutes, then add a half
cupful of strained soup stock and a half cupful of milk,
six whole peppers, a bit of bay leaf and an even half
teaspoonful of salt. Cook five minutes, remove bay leaf
and peppers, and add three tablespoonfuls grated horse-
radish. Cook two minutes and serve.
Maitre d'Hotel Butter.- To make it, rub a quarter
cupful of butter to a cream, add a half teaspoonful of
salt, a good dash of pepper, white or paprika, a table-
spoonful of fine chopped parsley and a tablespoonful of
lemon juice. If you are partial to nutmeg, a grating of
that is sometimes added.
Mexican Sauce. Take four large tomatoes or the
equivalent in canned, three green peppers and one onion.
Chop pepper and onion in a wooden bowl, add the to-
mato and salt and pepper to season. To one-half cupful
of vinegar, add the drippings from four slices fried ba-
con, pour over the chopped vegetables and serve in in-
dividual salad dishes as an accompaniment to meats.
Mint Sauce for Roast Lamb. Put one cup of vine-
gar and one rounding tablespoon of sugar together and
stir in one-quarter cup of finely minced mint. Let stand
fifteen minutes before it is served.
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 81
French Mustard Sauce, Creole Style. Work to-
gether three tablespoonfuls mustard and one cupful
sugar, then beat in one egg until smooth. Add one cup-
ful of vinegar a little at a time, set over the fire and cook
three or four minutes stirring constantly. When cold
add one tablespoonful olive oil beating all well together.
An Excellent Mustard Sauce for Cold Meat.
Two teaspoonfuls flour, one teaspoonful sugar, one tea-
spoonful mustard, a little pepper and salt. Mash all to-
gether, add boiling water, to make thick paste. Beat
constantly till lumps are all out. Add sufficient vinegar
to make it thinner. Be sure the water is boiling.
Onion Sauce. Prepare a smooth white sauce by
blending over the fire two tablespoonfuls of butter and a
tablespoonful and a half of flour. When bubbly, turn in
two cupfuls of hot milk, and stir until smooth and thick-
ened. Add two large boiled onions minced fine, cook a
moment, season with salt and pepper and serve with
poultry or boiled veal.
Spanish Sauce. For veal, lamb or mutton chops,
broiled or fried fish, chicken, etc. One large onion, one
full section of garlic, one-half large sweet, green or red
pepper. Put in two tablespoonfuls of butter, one tea-
spoonful of olive or vegetable oil. When effervescing
stops add a half teaspoonful of salt, and the onion, gar-
lic and green pepper which has been finely grated. When
this begins to brown, giving it time to cook rather well,
add four good sized tomatoes, skinned and chopped, or
the thick part of one can of tomatoes. Let all simmer
for fifteen to twenty minutes with occasional stirring to
prevent burning. Add salt and pepper, paprika, or cay-
enne to taste, two tablespoonfuls tomato ketchup and one
desertspoonful Worcestershire Sauce, before taking off
82 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
fire. It should be the consistency of good cream. If too
thin, cook down, or if too thick add a sufficient amount of
boiling water. Use red pepper as a seasoning.
Thick Tomato Sauce. Blend over the fire two
tablespoonfuls of melted butter and two tablespoonfuls
of flour; add a little at a time, and stirring all the while,
one large cupful of tomato juice. Stir until the mixture
thickens; then season to taste with sugar, salt and cay-
enne pepper. The seasoning may sometimes be varied
by adding a little chopped parsley or chopped onion or
even both. For a thinner tomato sauce use but one table-
spoonful of butter and one of flour to each cupful of
Sauce Tartare. Make first a good mayonnaise, then
finish with the addition of a tablespoonful each of chop-
ped gherkins, olives, parsley and capers; mix together
in a bowl a half teaspoonful of salt, a half teaspoonful
mustard, a half teaspoonful of powdered sugar and a
half saltspoonful of pepper; add the yolks of two raw
eggs that have been in the ice box long enough to be as
cold as possible and beat lightly; measure out a half cup-
ful of olive oil and have this cold also ; add the oil slowly
at first, then as it begins to thicken it can be poured in
more rapidly. When quite thick, add three tablespoonfuls
of vinegar, then the chopped ingredients. This will keep
several weeks. Tarragon vinegar may be used in place
of the cider vinegar if preferred.
Beef Steak Left Overs. MINCE fine and for eacK
cup of meat add a tablespoonful of chopped ham and
half as much bread crumbs as you have meat. Moisten
the crumbs with a little hot milk and add to the meat.
Season highly with salt, pepper and chopped parsley or
substitute a little sage or onion juice for the parsley.
Beat one egg light and add to the other ingredients.
Make into a brick shaped loaf, grease over with warmed
butter or oil, put in paper bag also greased. Seal and
bake twenty-five minutes. Dish on a hot platter, pour
tomato sauce about it or serve with horse radish sauce.
Chicken Croquettes. To one solid cupful of meat
chopped as fine as powder, add one half teaspoonful of
salt, and a half saltspoonful of white pepper. Make a
pint of thick cream sauce, allowing to two level table-
spoonfuls of butter, two heaping tablespoonfuls of corn-
starch cooked together diluted with a pint of hot milk or
cream and stirred and cooked until smooth and thick.
Season with salt and pepper and add enough to the
chicken to make stiff enough to handle when cold. When
cold shape into balls, roll in fine, dry bread crumbs and
beaten egg diluted with a little water, then crumb again
and place in well greased bag. Seal and cook ten min-
84 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
Mock Fried Oysters. To two cupfuls cold boiled
rice, add one tin of sardines, from which all bone and
skin have been removed. Roll this coarse paste into flat,
circular cakes, put into well-greased bag and bake fifteen
minutes in moderate oven.
Turkey Croquettes. Chop the fragments of turkey
or other left over meats very fine, adding for seasoning
a small portion of bologna, ham or tongue together with
a bit of fine minced onion or onion juice, salt, pepper
and parsley. Make a thick cream sauce, allowing for a
pint of the chopped and seasoned meat the following
Put into a saucepan a heaping tablespoonful butter
and two level tablespoonfuls of flour. As soon as blend-
ed, pour in a cupful of hot milk stirring until thick and
smooth. Salt to taste. Add the meat and beat until well
Season more highly if desired, then set away in a
cold place until cold and stiffened. Form into cones.
Dip in beaten egg, roll in fine crumbs and place in a
cold place again until quite dry. Bake in well greased
bag and stick a little sprig of parsley in the end of each
cone before serving.
Edinboro Hot Pot. You will need for this one
pound of cold meat sliced and browned in sweet drip-
pings, one large onion sliced and browned in the same
drippings, a half tin of tomatoes, a half dozen cold
boiled or baked potatoes sliced and a little good stock
made from the bones and seasoning. Put a layer of
meat in the well greased bag or in one of the oval wood
cookery dishes made specially for the purpose. On top
of the meat put some of the onions, tomatoes and pota-
toes. Season with salt, pepper and butter or vegetable
shortening and pour over all about a cupful of good
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 85
stock. Seal the bag and bake for a half hour in a mod-
Individual Meat Pies. Chop fine any cold cooked
meat. Season highly with mustard, pepper sauce and
catsup, salt and pepper; add one egg; moisten with
liquor of oysters. Make a rich biscuit crust, roll out to
a quarter of an inch thickness, and cut in squares. Fill
half of each square with one tablespoonful of the pre-
pared meat. Fold remaining half of square over, first
moistening edges with oyster liquor, and press closely to-
gether. Put in buttered bag and bake twenty minutes in
hot oven, reducing the heat after the first ten minutes.
English Pasties. Cut any cold meat up into small
pieces, add a cupful of sliced potatoes, raw, and an
onion chopped fine, some parsley and pepper and salt to
taste. Stew this until the potato is done and thicken
with flour rubbed in butter. Make a crust of flour and
salt, using chopped suet and butter in equal quantities
for shortening and a teaspoonful of baking powder to
each quart of flour. Roll the crust out thin and cut into
large discs the cover of a two quart pail makes a good
pastie cutter. Put two large spoonfuls of the meat mix-
ture on the crust and roll over, pinching edges together
like a fruit turnover. Bag and bake one-half hour in a
hot oven. If there is any of the meat gravy left serve it
with the pasties.
Olla Podrida Pie. Grease one of the oval wood
dishes and line with a crust about a quarter of an inch
thick. Fill with meat scraps of any sort cut small and
heated together in a little stock or gravy, well seasoned
with tomato and powdered herbs. Small leftovers of any
vegetable, peas, corn or cauliflower may also be minced
and added with good effect. Cover with strips of good
86 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
paste lattice fashion, slip into a well greased bag and
cook half an hour in a moderate oven.
Oyster Bundles. Cut generous, uniform slices of
cold turkey or veal, lay a slice of bacon on each, then an
oyster on each slice of the bacon. Roll the three to-
gether, fasten with tooth picks and put in buttered bag.
Bake fifteen minutes and serve with potatoes baked in
CHEESE AND EGG DISHES.
Cheese Ball With Tomato Sauce. Mix together
two cupfuls grated cheese, a cupful of fine
bread crumbs, a quarter teaspoonful of salt and a
few grains of cayenne. Then add two eggs beaten stiff,
shape in small balls, roll in crushed cracker crumbs and
lay in well buttered bag. Bake ten minutes and serve on
triangles of buttered toast with tomato sauce.
Cheese Fritters to Serve With the Salad Course.
Beat two eggs, season with salt, pepper and a sus-
picion of mustard and then lay in this seasoned egg as
many thin slices of American cheese as it will hold.
Have ready tart apples cored and sliced crosswise with-
out peeling. Put a slice of cheese between two rounds of
apple, sandwich fashion, dip the sandwiches in the egg,
lay in a well greased paper bag seal and cook ten min-
utes. Serve very hot.
Pepper Cheese. Take green peppers, scorch
slightly in hot oven or over the coals, then remove
the outer skin with a sharp knife. Split the peppers,
remove the seeds, and put in their place a small roll of
cream cheese. Roll up again, skewer together with a
wooden tooth-pick, dip in beaten egg and cracker crumbs
and put in well buttered bag. Seal and bake fifteen
minutes in hot oven.
88 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
Cheese Ramekins. Roll out a sheet of pie crust
and sprinkle liberally with grated cheese. Roll up and
roll out again. Sprinkle on more cheese and repeat the
rolling. Stamp out with a biscuit cutter (the pastry
should be about a quarter of an inch thick), put in but-
tered bag and bake in a hot oven. When done, dip both
sides in melted butter and serve hot.
Cheese and Eggs. Butter the bottom of a baking
dish and cover with slices of rich cheese. Break several
whole eggs over the cheese, taking care that the whites
and yolks do not become separated. Season with salt
and pepper, and pour over all a rich cream, a half table-
spoonful to each egg.
Baked Eggs. Butter little casseroles or gem pans,
and drop an egg in each. Season with salt and pepper and
put a little cream on the top of each egg. Put in bag,
seal and bake five minutes. These are exceedingly deli-
cate, as the steam being retained they bake quickly, yet
do not become hard. Set each on a plate for serving.
Baked Eggs With Cheese. Break into a buttered
pan the number of eggs required. Pour over each one
tablespoon of rich, sweet cream, sprinkle over all a thin
layer of grated cheese and a few fine rolled crumbs.
Season with salt and pepper, put in bag, seal, and bake
about six minutes.
A Paper Bag Omelette. Beat two eggs for about
five minutes. Add a dash of salt and pepper and a
heaping teaspoonful of flour. Beat again until flour is
well mixed in and add a small cupful of milk. Put a
tablespoonful of minced breakfast bacon into a pie tin,
when quite hot pour egg mixture over it. Put in paper
bag, seal, and bake a delicate brown in a quick oven.
Cut in squares and serve immediately.
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 89
Cheese Omelette. A savory of cheese omelette may
be made from one egg if the following recipe is used.
Soak one small cupful grated bread crumbs in two cup-
fuls of sweet milk into which a pinch of soda has been
dissolved. Beat one egg very light and add to the soft-
ened bread. Stir in one teaspoonful of melted butter
and a dash of cayenne. Beat the whole well, add a
small cupful grated cheese and a teaspoonful of salt.
Beat again, turn into a buttered bag, bake twenty
minutes and serve at once.
Swiss Eggs. For Swiss eggs spread the bottom of a
bag with two ounces of fine American cheese. Place
four eggs on the cheese, taking care that the yolks are not
broken. Season with pepper and salt. Pour around
the eggs two tablespoonfuls of rich cream and cover the
top with grated cheese. Put in bag, seal and bake for
ten minutes. Garnish with parsley and serve with
fingers of crisp toast.
Eggs in Tomato Cups. Cut fresh tomatoes in half
and scoop out part of the interior. Fry the tomato cups
until half done. Then break into each of them an egg.
Put then in a buttered bag, seal and cook ten minutes.
The tops of the eggs may be sprinkled with minced ham
or grated cheese, or they may be served plain. Season
and serve hot.
WHILE no claim is made that all vegetables are im-
proved through paper bag cookery, experiments prove
that quite a number can be successfully cooked by the
paper bag process. Vegetables of strong flavor as a
rule are best cooked in a large quantity of water and are
not recommended for paper bag cookery; only the more
delicate vegetables that need to have their flavors con-
served. Dried peas, lentils and beans are excellent
cooked in paper bags but require a longer preliminary
soaking than is usual with other methods of cooking.
Asparagus. Trim and scrape as for boiling; wasE
very clean. Tie in bundles and put into a buttered bag
with a little salt and a quarter cupful of water. Seal
and cook from thirty-five to forty minutes in a hot oven
Asparagus With Chesse. Boil two bunches of as-
paragus twelve minutes in salted water. Drain, but
save the water. Put the asparagus in a buttered bag or
in one of the oval wooden dishes, scattering grated
Swiss or Parmesan cheese between the layers. Turn
over all a cup of the water in which the asparagus was
boiled, sprinkle the top of the scallop with a little cheese
and a few buttered bread crumbs. Seal the bag and
cook fifteen minutes in a moderate oven.
Lima Beans. Add to a quart of shelled Lima beans
three tablespoonfuls of butter or vegetable oil, a quarter
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 91
pound of diced bacon or ham, a little minced parsley or
other seasoning herbs, and a teaspoonful of flour. Put
in a greased bag with a cupful of water, seal and cook an
hour in a moderate oven.
String Beans, Oriental Style. String the beans,
cut in two lengthwise, then break in inch pieces. To
every pint of beans, which should be young and tender,
allow one cupful boiling water, two tablespoonfuls vege-
table oil, one small onion sliced, and a half cupful tomato,
Salt and pepper to taste. Put all in greased paper bag
and cook forty-five minutes. A wooden cookery dish can
be employed to advantage.
Boston Baked Bean Cakes. These are made of
left-over baked beans. Heat with a little water to
moisten, rub through a colander, season with salt, pepper
and mustard. Put a tablespoonful of pork drippings or
butter in a frying pan, and cook in it, when hot, a table-
spoonful of minced onion, taking care not to let it
blacken. Add to the beans, make into cakes and lay in
well-greased bag. Cook twenty minutes and serve with
Bean Croquettes. Soak one pint white pea beans
or the little brown Mexican frijoles over night in cold
water. In the morning cook until soft in water to which
a saltspoonful of soda has been added, changing the
water after it first comes to a boil. Rub through a
colander, then add to the pulp one cup grated bread
crumbs, one tablespoonful minced parsley, two table-
spoonfuls melted butter, two eggs well beaten, one
small onion grated and salt and pepper to season. Mix
thoroughly, shape into cylinders, dip in beaten egg, then
in cracker dust and put in buttered bag. Seal and cook
ten minutes in hot oven.
92 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
German Cabbage. Take two small hard heads of
red cabbage and cut in slices half an inch thick, discard-
ing the hard stalk and veins. Put onto a greased wooden
cookery bowl two rounding tablespoonfuls of melted but-
ter or vegetable oil, then add the cabbage, sprinkle with a
level teaspoonful of salt, three tablespoonfuls of vinegar
and one onion chopped fine. Put in bag, seal, and put
in oven. Bake one hour with only one burner on after
the first ten minutes.
Cabbage Hot Slaw. Chop a small hard head o?
cabbage fine and salt it lightly. Let stand half an hour
then put in wooden bowl with two tablespoonfuls of but-
ter. Put in bag, seal, and cook slowly in the oven for
twenty minutes. No water is necessary, as the salt will
draw out the juices of the cabbage so it will have mois-
ture enough. At the end of twenty minutes take up with
a hot dish, add a teaspoonful of flour that has been stirred
in a little cold water, then cooked until thick with a half
cupful of cream. Lastly, add one tablespoonful of pure
vinegar and serve at once.
Carrots. Wash and scrape a half dozen tender
carrots. Slice thin and season with salt, pepper and a
good tablespoonful of butter. Add a half cupful good
stock, put in a well greased bag, seal and cook thirty-five
Carrot Saute. Scrape and cook young carrots in
boiling salted water until tender. Cut in halves length-
wise, roll in fine cracker crumbs, then in egg and cracker
again, and put in well greased bag. Bake fifteen
minutes, sprinkle with fine chopped parsley and serve
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 93
Stuffed Eggplant. Select purple fruit and of small
size. Halve them, sprinkle them with salt, turn them
cut side down on a fine sieve, put a heavy plate on them
and let them drain for an hour. Wipe dry, take from
each a tablespoonful of the center, chop it fine and for
each tablespoonful allow the same amount of bread
crumbs, a teaspoonful of chopped onions, olives and vege-
table oil, with a little salt and adustingof paprika. Mound
this dressing on each half, arrange the halves in a but-
tered bag, pour in water to the depth of an inch, add a
generous piece of butter, salt and pepper, and place the
bag in a hot oven; twenty minutes should be sufficiently
long to cook the eggplant thoroughly.
Lentil Cutlets. Soak one cupful dried lentils all
night with a cupful dried lima beans. In the morning
drain, add two quarts of water, a stalk of celery and half
an onion sliced. Cook until soft, remove the seasonings
and rub through a puree sieve. Add one cupful stale
bread crumbs, one beaten egg, the juice of a half lemon
and seasonings to taste. Melt a heaping tablespoonful
of butter in a small saucepan, add to it a tablespoonful
flour and pour on, when blended, a third of a cup of
milk. Let the mixture cook until thick and smooth, then
add to the lentil mixture and set aside to cool. Shape
into small cutlets, dip in beaten egg, then in fine cracker
crumb, put in a well buttered bag and bake twenty
minutes. Serve with a tomato sauce.
Mushrooms. Choose fine fat musfirooms, cut the
stem close, peel and wipe delicately with a damp cloth.
Sprinkle lightly with salt and lay in a well-greased bag
together with a big tablespoonful of butter rolled in
flour and a half cupful of rich cream. Seal and cook
twelve minutes in a hot oven.
94 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
Baked Onions. Parboil for fifteen minutes Bermuda
or Spanish onions, chill in cold water, then if very large
cut in halves, otherwise, cut a little wedge out of the
hearts and fill the cavity with butter or vegetable oil.
Put in the well greased bag, adding a little water and
more butter or oil, seal and cook twenty minutes.
Stuffed Baked Onions. The next time you have a
roast leg of lamb or mutton, try baked onions prepared
in this way as an accompaniment: Take large onions,
preferably Spanish or Bermudas, peel, cut a slice from
the top of each, and with a small spoon scoop out about
half the pulp. Put this in a dish, mix with it an equal
quantity of bread crumbs, well flavored with chopped
parsley, sweet marjoram, salt and pepper. Moisten the
whole lightly with cream and a little melted butter; mix
well, fill the onion cavities with the stuffing, crown with
a slice of bacon for a cover, put in a bag and bake one
hour in a moderate oven.
Onions With Cheese. Skin large Spanish onions
and boil until quite soft. Press through a sieve and put
into a well buttered wooden baking dish. Season with
salt, pepper and plenty of butter, add a little stock or
milk, grate a little cheese over them, put in bag and
bake to a golden brown.
Parsnips. Scrape and parboil some parsnips. Cut
in two lengthwise. Season with pepper and salt, roll
in melted butter, dripping or olive oil. Flour again and
place in a well-greased paper bag. Seal up and
bake in a hot oven on a wire rack for half an hour.
They should be a golden brown.
Green Peas. Shell the peas, put into a well buttered
bag with a little salt to season, a little sprig of green mint
and a half cupful of water. Seal and cook twenty-five
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 05
minutes. Slit open the bag, pour its contents into a hot
dish, season well with butter and serve.
Stuffed Peppers. In preparing peppers for stuffing,
select those of uniform size, wash and plunge in boiling
water for about ten minutes; then drop into cold water
to keep them green; cut off the stem ends and scoop out
the seeds and inside of the peppers; fill with any of the
following stuffings or a combination of your own de-
Stuffing No. 1. Wash half a cup of rice; cover with
boiling water and cook rapidly for ten minutes; then
turn into a sieve to drain. Peel three large tomatoes, re-
moving the seeds and cutting the pulp in small pieces.
When fresh tomatoes are out of season, their equivalent
in canned may be used. Mix the rice and tomatoes to-
gether; add two tablespoonfuls of olive oil or melted
butter and season with salt. Fill the drained peppers with
the mixture, sprinkling a few buttered crumbs over the
top and replace the covers. Oil the peppers on the outside^
and set m a buttered bag. Turn enough stock into the
bag to come half way up the sides of the peppers (if you
have no stock use hot water in which a tablespoonful of
kitchen bouquet has been dissolved and several slices of
onion and carrot added), and bake in a moderate oven
three-quarters of an hour. Rice that has been left over
from dinner may be used, leaving the tomatoes out and
seasoning with chopped celery, parsley, salt and pep-
per. When done, dish on a hot platter and pour a rich
brown sauce over them, scattering a little minced parsley
over the top. A wooden cookery dish is advised here.
Stuffing No. 2. For eight good sized peppers take a
pint of chopped meat, veal or chicken, or veal mixed with
sausage, a cupful of soft bread crumbs and a cup of stock,
gravy or water in which a spoonful of beef extract has
been dissolved. Season with an even teaspoonful each
96 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
of salt and pepper and half teaspoonful each summer
savory, thyme and sage. Mix well, fill the peppers,
sprinkle fine buttered bread crumbs over them at the end
where the stuffing is exposed, put in a buttered bag and
bake until well browned. This will take about a quarter
of an hour. Serve with chicken or roast beef, and with
or without a sauce.
Peppers With Creamed Fish. Parboil the peppers
ten minutes, then fill with creamed fish of any kind,
which may be seasoned with a tablespoonful of sherry.
Then sprinkle with a layer of fine crumbs, dot with
butter, bag, and brown lightly in a quick oven. Creamed
carrots, cauliflower, sprouts, and many other vegetables
may be baked in the pepper cups and served either as a
vegetable or an entree. Filled with potatoes au gratin
and browned they are a delicious accompaniment for
chops and steaks.
Baked Irish Potatoes. Scrub thoroughly and rinse
as many good sized potatoes as will be required. Make
a few slits in them but do not peel. Place in the paper
bag with a tablespoonful of water, close tightly and
cook from thirty-five to fifty minutes, according to size.
Baked Potatoes Without Their Coats or Jackets.
Select as many potatoes of the same size as desired.
Peel and let them stand in salted, cold water for ten
minutes. Then drain without drying and place in a
greased bag, bacon fat is good for these potatoes and
cook in a hot oven, without disturbing, for forty-five
minutes if small, one hour, if large .They will have a
crisp, brown coat, every part of which can be eaten.
Potatoes en Surprise. Choose potatoes of smooth
shape, not too large and of even size. Scrape out from
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 9?
the top of each a space large enough to hold the yolk of
an egg. Salt and pepper the nest, drop in a tiny bit of
butter, then the egg yolk, follow with a thin slice of
bacon just large enough to cover the egg and set in
greased paper bag. If necessary to keep them upright
cut a thin slice from the bottom of each potato, add a
spoonful of cold water, seal, set in a hot oven and cook
for thirty minutes.
Potatoes Farci. A new and very delicious way of
serving stuffed potatoes is as follows: Wash large po-
tatoes and bake in bag until nearly done; take from the
oven and nearly cut off one end, leaving the skin for a
hinge and a bit of potato for a lid. Pull out the undone
heart with a fork and in its place lay shavings of smoked
bacon, peppered and tightly rolled after having been
laid for an instant on a hot frying pan; close the potato
and set in the oven to finish cooking.
Sauer Kraut. Put enough to serve six people in one
of the largest size wood cookery dishes, salt and sea-
son to taste, add a half cupful of water, put in bag, seal,
and bake one hour in moderate oven.
Waldorf Sauer Kraut. Soak the sauer kraut in
cold water until just palatably salt. Put into greased
paper bag on a wooden cookery dish with a little bacon,
pickled pork or sausage, add a half cupful of hot water
and cook about twenty minutes. Drain, put in a hot dish
with or without the meat as desired and serve. When
boiled sauer kraut is cold it may be chopped and reheated
in a buttered bag with butter, gravy or a white sauce.
Sweet Potatoes and Bacon. Peel boiled sweet po-
tatoes, fasten a slice of bacon around each, using a
wooden tooth pick to hold in place. Put in buttered bag
With a spoonful of water, and bake ten minutes.
98 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
Sweet Potato Straws. Cut potatoes in slices
lengthwise, peel, then cut into straws. Dip in bacon fat
or melted butter, put in buttered bag, seal, and cook
fifteen minutes. Take out on soft paper to absorb any
grease, dust lightly with salt and serve.
Sweet Potato en Brochette. Peel and cut in half
inch, uniform slices. Put on skewers in groups of four,
place in boiling water and parboil ten minutes. Drain,
brush over with vegetable oil, sprinkle with brown sugar,
put in greased bag and bake twenty minutes in moderate
Spinach. Pick over carefully, thoroughly wash, then
put into a bag, leaving the vegetable quite damp. Add
a little salt, seal and cook thirty minutes. Before lifting
the bag from the oven slide a pan under it, and prick the
bottom of the bag so the water will drain out. Dish,
adding butter to season and serve.
Summer Squash in Butter. Cut into narrow strips
and season with salt and pepper. Put into well greased
bag, add a generous lump of butter and cook about half
Stuffed Summer Squash. Boil in lightly salte3
water until tender. Cut off the top and scoop out the
inside. Mix well with seasoned and buttered crumbs,
chopped onion and grated cheese. Fill the shell, sprinkle
the top with buttered crumbs, put in bag and bake until
Stuffed Tomatoes With Cream. Mix together
three-quarters of a cupful of cold-chopped chicken or
veal, three tablespoonfuls of soft bread crumbs, a table-
spoonful of melted butter, one teaspoonful of chopped
parsley, half a teaspoonful of salt and quarter teaspoon-
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 99
ful of paprika. Wash and wipe six medium-sized to-
matoes, take a small piece from the stem end, carefully
remove a portion of the pulp, and fill the hole with the
stuffing; place in a buttered bag and cook for thirty
minutes in a moderate oven. Remove to a hot platter,
whip three tablespoon fuls of rich cream, add to it two
tablespoon fuls of melted butter, and pour a small portion
over each tomato.
Turnips. Peel and slice your turnips and put them
in a well-greased bag with a light seasoning of salt, a
lump of butter barely dusted with flour, and enough thin
stock to half cover them. Seal and cook in a moderate
oven for an hour more or less according to the tender-
ness of the vegetable. Empty into a hot dish and if not
rich enough add more butter, and dust with black pepper
Turnip Balls. Peel fine grained turnips, then cut
into balls, using a vegetable scoop. Put into a well-
greased bag with a light seasoning of salt, a little sugar,
a dusting of pepper, a tablespoonful of butter or vege-
table oil and a quarter cupful of hot water, seal, and cook
half an hour until tender, but not brown. Take up, add a
half cupful hot cream sauce, stir lightly in it, sprinkle
with minced parsley and serve very hot.
Stuffed Vine Leaves or Dolmas. Choose tender
vine leaves and scald them, after which roll a little of the
following stuffing in each leaf, making it round and firm
so that the stuffing will not come out when the balls are
boiled. Chop three onions, put a teacupful of good salad
oil in a stewing-pan, and, when it is boiling hot, throw
in the chopped onion. As soon as this begins to cook, add
a small cupful of Carolina rice, some chopped parsley
and mint, salt and pepper and a tablespoonful of currants
100 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
and mix well on the fire till the rice begins to brown.
Then take a vine leaf in your left hand and wrong side
upward and put a little of this prepared rice into it. Put
some of the coarse vine leaves at the bottom of the paper
bag and arrange each little ball beside its neighbor,
packing them rather tightly. When this is done, put in
sufficient water just to cover the dolmas, add a little oil,
seal the bag and bake till the rice is soft and the water is
all absorbed. This is a very delicate and characteristic
dish, but will be a failure if the vine leaves are not
tender or the oil is rancid. Serve with lemon.
;WARM BREADS, BISCUITS, MUFFINS, ETC.
Baking Powder Bread. SIFT together, five times
over, four quarts of flour, six rounded teaspoonfuls bak-
ing powder and four level teaspoonfuls salt. Have the
oven quite hot. Add to the sifted flour enough milk and
water in nearly equal proportions, to make a moist, not
wet, dough, stiff enough to handle, then divide into four
portions, mould lightly into shape and put into brick
shaped pans. Brush over the tops with milk, put into
bags and bake an hour.
Bannocks. Sift together one pint of corn meal, one
tablespoonful of sugar and a teaspoonful of salt. Pour
over the mixture enough milk or milk and water to
moisten. Let stand until cool, then add three well-beaten
eggs, spread half an inch thick in well-greased bag.
Seal and bake in hot oven. Cut into squares, split and
serve hot and well-buttered.
Baking Powder Biscuits. Sift together three times
over one quart of flour, two rounded teaspoonfuls baking
powder, and a teaspoonful of salt. Rub in with the tips
of the fingers one rounding tablespoonful vegetable
shortening or butter, and when the flour feels mealy, add
slowly a cup and a half of milk or milk and water mixed.
Mix lightly with little handling, turn out on board, roll
into a sheet half an inch in thickness, stamp out with
102 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
small round cutter and lay in greased bag. Brush the top
of each biscuit with milk. Seal and bake twenty minutes
in a very hot oven.
Egg Biscuits. To make these delicious biscuits, beat
one egg until light, then mix with it two-thirds of a cup-
ful of milk. Add to one pint of flour a heaping tea-
spoonful baking powder and one-half teaspoonful salt,
and sift. Blend with the mixture one tablespoonful of
butter and two tablespoonfuls of sugar. Add the egg
mixture, make into a dough and knead lightly. Roll into
a sheet a quarter of an inch thick, stamp out with a round
cutter, brush over the top of each biscuit with cream,
prick with a fork, bag, and bake in a hot ove&.
Maple Biscuits. Make a very rich baking powder
biscuit dough and roll out to half the thickness of biscuits,
cut out with a small cutter, sprinkle grated maple sugar
over the tops of half of them, moisten the under sides of
the others and lay them on top of the sugared ones,
pressing them on well. Lay close together in a bag,
brush over with milk or melted butter, seal and bake in a
Nut Biscuits. Sift together two cupfuls flour, one-
half teaspoonful of salt, and a teaspoonful and a half of
Rub in one heaping tablespoonful of butter or vegetable
shortening, and add one cupful of nuts, pecans, hickory
or English walnuts chopped and a tablespoonful of sugar.
Mix to a soft dough with milk or milk and water, mould
with the hands into small balls, place in a greased bag,
brush each biscuit over with milk or melted butter, put a
pinch of chopped nuts on each, seal and bake in a hot
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 103
Raisin Biscuits. These are excellent for home lunch-
eon or the children's school or picnic lunch. Sift
together one quart of flour, a half teaspoonful of salt and
two heaping teaspoon fuls of baking powder. Work into
the sifted flour a cupful of shortening, then add a cupful
each seedless raisins and milk. Mix well and roll out on
the molding board. Cut in small round biscuits, bag,
and bake in a quick oven.
Hot Cross Buns. Sift together one quart of pastry-
flour, three teaspoonfuls of baking powder and a tea-
spoonful of salt. Rub into the flour a piece of butter the
size of an egg. Mix together a cupful each of milk and
water and add one cupful of sugar. Stir into the flour,
add two beaten eggs, and mix soft. Cut into small bis-
cuits, make the cross on the top of each, bag, and bake
in a very hot oven. Sift powdered sugar over them as
soon as taken from the bag. A half cupful chopped
raisins or currants may be added to the dough if de-
Warmed Over Breads. It is a trick worth knowing
that cold biscuit, rolls, gems and the like can be brushed
over with water, put in a greased paper bag, sealed and
set in the oven for eight minutes to emerge as fresh as
though just newly baked.
CAKES baked in paper bags will be as brown as if
baked without the bag and will retain their moisture in-
finitely better; therefore plain loaf cakes and all fruit
cakes are greatly improved by the paper bag cooking.
While drop cakes, oatmeal cookies and the like can be
baked directly on the bottom of the bag, better results
as far as form is concerned, will come from using very
thin tin moulds or baking sheets or paper souffle cases.
Before putting a cake in the oven, particularly if it be a
fruit cake, it will be found advisable to set on the bot-
tom of the oven, a shallow pan with a little water in it.
Put in the bag, close the oven door and leave ten min-
utes with the gas on, then reduce the heat at least one-
half. Bag cooking prevents cake crusting over and there-
by permits it to rise to its full height. It also saves from
burning. Midway in the baking the position of cakes can
be changed, those on the grid itself set low on the broiler
and vice versa so all will cook evenly. To test whether
the cake is done or no, make a hole in the bag top and
thrust in a clean straw or thin knife blade. If it comes
out dry with no stickiness, the cake is done.
Cheese Cakes. These are a modern adaptation of the
old " flawns," a favorite Eastertide cake. As formerly
made, there was a tedious separation of curds and whey ;
but the housewife of today eliminates that by taking
STANDARD PAPER; BAG COOKERY 105
a Neufchatel or cream cheese as the foundation. This is
crumbled fine and added to the other ingredients, allow-
ing to each Neufchatel cheese, one small cupful of sugar,
the grated rind and half the juice of one lemon, a half
cupful each sifted cracker crumbs and currants, one
tablespoonful melted butter, half a nutmeg grated, half
a cupful of cream or rich milk, a saltspoonful of salt and
four eggs. Crumble the cheese and crackers together,
beat the eggs and add, together with sugar, salt and
spices. Next add the butter and cream and lastly the
currants, lemon juice and rind. Mix thoroughly and fill
patty tins lined with puff paste. Ornament the top with
currants and slender strips of citron, put in buttered
bag. Seal and bake in a quick oven.
Cinnamon Cake. Cream one-quarter cup of butter
and one cup of sugar, add one-half cup of milk, one well
beaten egg, one and three-quarters cups of flour sifted
twice with three even teaspoons of baking powder, and
pour in a shallow pan to make a sheet rather than a loaf.
Just before setting the cake into the oven sprinkle cinna-
mon and granulated sugar over the top. Put into a bag.
Seal and bake twenty minutes. Serve fresh and cut in
English Fairy Cakes. Sift together six ounces of
flour and a half teaspoonful of baking powder. Grate a
lemon rind and add to the sifted flour together with three
ounces chopped candied cherries. Beat to a cream four
ounces of butter and four of sugar, then add three eggs
one at a time, beating thoroughly. Add the flour and
cherry mixture and stir lightly. Have ready some but-
tered patty-tins, half fill with the batter, bag, and bake
in a moderate oven twenty minutes.
106 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
Fruit Cookies. One cupful and one-half of sugar,
either white or brown, one cupful of butter and lard or
vegetable shortening, (half and half is good) three
tablespoonfuls of molasses, the same amount of hot
water, three eggs, one cupful of raisins, one teaspoonful
each of soda (dissolved in hot water), ginger and cinna-
mon, a light sprinkling of cloves, and flour to make very
stiff. Half a cupful or more of chopped nut meats
makes a nice addition, but is not necessary.
Cream the sugar and shortening, as for cake, then add
eggs well beaten, molasses and water, spices and soda,
then flour, and lastly fruit. When the batter will take
up no more flour, lift it up by teaspoonfuls, pat it flat and
in shape in the baking pan, which must be well buttered,
put in bag, and bake in fairly hot oven, being careful not
This will be found much easier than rolling the dough
on a board, and will make about forty cookies.
Mrs. Godfrey's Soft Gingerbread. In a sympo-
sium on gingerbreads held one Summer afternoon at Sun-
apee Inn, New Hampshire, this was given as an example
of a most delicate inexpensive cake. Add to one cupful
molasses, one cupful softened butter or lard, filling up
the cup in which it is measured with boiling water. Add
two even teaspoonfuls soda, a small teaspoonful of gin-
ger, a pinch of salt, one beaten egg, and two heaping cup-
fuls sifted flour. Beat lightly (not too much lest it
make the ginger bread light colored), put in bag and
bake in a moderate oven.
Good Friday Cake. This is a simple tea cake, not
very sweet, and is served hot or cold as preferred. To
make it, beat to a cream a scant cupful of butter and a
quarter cupful of sugar. Add a teaspoonful of the
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 107
grated yellow rind of lemon, a half teaspoonful of lemon
juice, a pound of flour and enough water to make a stiff
paste. Divide the dough into two equal parts and roll
into large, round cakes about the size of an ordinary pie
tin. Mark the edges with a "jigger " into some fancy
design, or simply pinch with the fingers. Cut each cake
into quarters, brush over with the white of an egg, lay
a strip of candied lemon peel on each, sprinkle with
granulated sugar put in bag, and bake.
German Honey Cakes. These are fine for lunch-
eon or the kaffee klatch. Put into a saucepan two cupfuls
strained honey and one cupful sugar. Warm, add a cup-
ful of butter and a half tablespoonful soda dissolved in a
little warm water. Add a half cupful caraway seed and
flour to roll. Roll into a rather thick sheet, mark into
squares, put in bag, and bake. When done cut in small
Pecan Kisses. Into the whites of six eggs put four-
teen little more than level tablespoonfuls white sugar and
beat long and thoroughly until stiff enough to stand
alone. Have ready a small cup pecan kernels having
them in as perfect halves as possible. Beat in lightly,
drop in greased baking sheet, put in bag. Seal and bake
in a moderate oven.
Mrs. Kelder's Loaf Cake. Beat to a cream one and
one-half cupfuls sugar and one-half cupful of butter.
Add the yolks of three eggs beaten until light and thin.
Add two and one-half cupfuls flour measured after sifting
with two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Lastly
fold in the stiffly whipped whites of three eggs and flavor
to taste. Put in light tin, set in paper bag. Seal and
bake thirty-five minutes.
108 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
Hickory Nut Macaroons. To one whole egg beaten
light, add one cup sugar and beat well. Add two table-
spoonfuls flour and one cup nut meats and lastly fold in
the stiffly whipped whites of three eggs. Drop by
spoonsfuls into a well greased bag and bake in a moder-
ate oven ten or twelve minutes.
Walnut Macaroons. One and one-half cupfuls of
sugar, one-third cup of butter, three eggs, three cups of
flour, one teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in water, one
teaspoonful of cloves, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, one
cup of English walnut meats, one cup of chopped dates.
Do not roll the mixture as in ordinary cookies, but drop
into a greased bag with a spoon. Seal and bake slowly
for thirty minutes.
Maple Sugar Cake. Add to one cup maple syrup
one beaten egg, a pinch of salt, one cup of thick, sour
cream, into which has been stirred a teaspoonful (scant)
of soda, a teaspoonful of ginger and flour to make a thin
batter. Bake in a bag and cut in squares.
Molasses Coffee Cake. Then right here let me give
you a recipe for a fruit cake or gingerbread with fruit
as you may elect to call it. Cream together one cupful
of sugar and three- fourths cup of butter. Add one cupful
black molasses, one cupful strong coffee with a teaspoon-
ful of soda dissolved in it, four beaten eggs, one tea-
spoonful each cinnamon and nutmeg, three-fourths tea-
spoonful cloves, one half pound shredded citron and
three cupfuls sifted flour. Do not beat longer than
necessary. Put in tin, then in bag, and bake in a slow
Nut Cake. To make a light, delicious cake, cream
together one cup of sugar and five tablespoons of melted
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 109
butter. Into this beat two well beaten eggs, a pinch of
salt and a cup of milk. Stir into this two heaping cupfuls
of flour, sifted with two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking
powder. After this is well beaten, stir in three-quarters
of a cup of chopped walnuts. Bake in square cake tin
in bag. Ice when cold with plain pulverized sugar icing.
Cut in squares, placing a piece of walnut meat on each
Oatmeal Cakes. Beat to a cream three- fourths cup-
ful vegetable shortening or butter and a cupful and a
half of brown sugar. Dissolve one teaspoonful of soda
in one cupful of boiling water and add to butter and
sugar mixture. Mix together two cupfuls of dry oatmeal,
two cupfuls of flour and a half teaspoonful of salt and
add to the other ingredients. Flavor to taste. Lastly add
two well beaten eggs and drop from spoon into greased
bag or flat tin and place in bag. Seal and bake in mod-
erate oven about fifteen minutes.
German Peach Cake. Make a rich baking powder
biscuit dough and roll out in sheets to fit a long biscuit
pan. It should not be more than a half-inch thick.
Brush the top with butter and cover with slices of peach
arranged in symmetrical overlapping rows, or half
peaches with the rounded side up. Sprinkle generously
with sugar, cover with another tin to prevent the fruit
from becoming mushy or hardened, put in bag and bake
about half an hour in a hot oven. This is a good substi-
tute for peach pie.
Pork Cake. This is an old New England dish that
has been relegated to the background these many years,
but is lately coming to the fore. A gray haired New
York physician, dining at my house the other night, de-
clared that his old Connecticut aunt's pork cake was one
110 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
of the dearest remembered gustatorial delights of his
To make it chop one pound of fat pork fine. Pour
over it a pint of boiling water, then stir in three cupfuls
brown sugar, one pound of seeded raisins, eight cupfuls
of flour and two rounding teaspoonfuls of soda dissolved
in a little water. Add a teaspoonful of cinnamon, a half
teaspoon ful cloves and nutmeg, mix thoroughly and bake
in a slow oven like fruit cake. If preferred, two beaten
eggs may be added in which case less flour will be re-
Potato Chocolate Cake. To two cupfuls of sugar
and two-thirds cup butter beaten to a cream, add yolks of
four eggs beaten until lemon colored and light and a half
cupful of sweet milk. Next add a teaspoonful of soda dis-
solved in two tablespoonfuls of hot water, one cup mash-
ed potato, two cups of flour, and four squares of chocolate
melted, one cup chopped walnuts, a teaspoonful of van-
illa. Lastly fold in the stiffly beaten whites of four eggs.
This may be baked either in a large loaf or in layers in
a paper bag.
Potato Caramel Cake. Beat to a ceram two-thirds
cup of butter and two cups of sugar, add the yolks of
four eggs beaten until light and mix with a half cup of
sweet milk and one cup mashed potato. Add two squares
of bitter chocolate melted, one-half teaspoonful nutmeg,
and two cups flour sifted with two teaspoonfuls baking
powder. Fold in whites of four eggs beaten stiff, a cupful
of nut meats, preferably English walnuts, chopped. Bake
slowly for about an hour in a gingerbread tin in paper
bag, making the cake an inch and a half or two inches
thick; or else in layer tins together with white icing
This will make four layers.
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 111
Auburn Pound Cake. Beat to a cream three-
fourths pounds of butter and one pound fine granulated
sugar. Add the yolks of nine eggs beaten light and one
pound flour measured after sifting and then sifted again
with a teaspoonful and a half of baking powder. Fold
in the stiffly whipped whites and flavor with vanilla, al-
mond or the grated rind and juice of a lemon or a wine
glass of sherry. Pour into well buttered thin tin mould
and seal in bags. Bake an hour and a quarter or an hour
and a half in a moderate oven.
Raisin Nut Cakes. For raisin nut cakes for after-
noon tea, beat six eggs lightly, beating the whites and
with an even teaspoon of soda, one teaspoon of
sugar creamed with a cupful of butter, a cupful and a
half of milk and three cupfuls and a half of flour. Add a
cupful of chopped walnuts, two pounds of chopped rais-
ins, a wineglass of brandy, two teaspoonfuls of baking
powder and spice to taste. Make into small cakes, put on
tin in bag and bake in a moderate oven.
Sour Cream Cake.- Beat together one cup of pow-
dered sugar and one cup of sour cream, add two eggs
beaten light, one and one-half cups of flour sifted twice
with an even teaspoon of soda twice, one teaspoon of
vanilla and one cup of seeded and cut raisins rolled light-
ly in flour. Beat to make the batter creamy and bake at
once in a rather shallow pan sealed in a paper bag.
Baked Apples. WASH, but do not peel; cut out
specks and bruises, core, fill the bottom of the core-space
with a bit of butter, over which pile sugar and add a
dusting of cinnamon. A clove stuck in the side may take
the place of the cinnamon. Seal inside a well-greased
bag and bake eighteen to twenty minutes in a fairly hot
oven. Serve hot with sugar and cream or a hard sauce.
Baked Apple Dumplings. Make a regular short-
cake crust, using one pint of flour, two teaspoonfuls
baking powder and a saltspoonful of salt, sifted together
three times, one-quarter cup butter rubbed in with the
tips of the fingers, and one egg beaten and mixed with
three-quarters cup milk. Roll out and cut in five-inch
squares. Have ready three large apples, peeled, cored
and halved and lay each piece on a square of the paste.
Fold the pastry over each apple like a blanket, lapping
the four corners at the top and pressing them down firm-
ly. Turn the dumplings upside down in a well-buttered
bag, dot with bits of butter and sprinkle with sugar. Set
the bag in a quick oven and bake to a russet brown.
This will take about half an hour. Serve with any
sweet sauce, or rich, sweet cream.
Cold Baked Apples With Rum. Peel, core and
bake the apples in a buttered bag, with a teaspoonful of
sugar to each apple. Put in the serving dish, and while
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY. 113
still very hot pour over each a dessertspoonful of rum.
Let cool and serve with cake or crisped water biscuit.
Cinnamon Apples. Peel, core and quarter six good
cooking apples, preferably greenings. Melt a table
spoonful of butter in a warm bowl and stir the apples in
it until coated with the butter. Mix a teaspoonful of
ground cinnamon with a half cup of granulated sugar, and
stir into the apples. Have a paper bag thoroughly but-
tered and put the apples in it. Rinse out the bowl with
a cup of hot water, add it to the apples, seal carefully,
place on a broiler which rests on a pie plate and bake in a
hot oven fifteen minutes. Half a pint of whipped cream
over the apples when served is an addition, but they are
delicious, cooked in this way, without it.
Apples Stuffed With Figs. Steam tender as many
figs as you desire, chop into dice and roll each piece in
powdered sugar seasoned with cinnamon. Core large,
tart apples and fill the cavities with the figs. Bag and
bake in a hot oven, adding a little hot water. When ten-
der, remove carefully to the serving dish and pour over
them a syrup made by boiling a half cup of sugar with
an equal quantity of water. Flavor to taste and pour over
the apples. Serve cold with whipped or plain cream.
Baked Apples and Nuts. For a half dozen large
apples a good three-fourths cup of nut meats, butternuts,
black walnuts or hickory nuts will be required. Chop
the meats fine and add a half cup of sugar. Core the
apples and fill the centres with the nuts and sugar. Put
in a rather deep pan, with a cupful of boiling water add-
ed, bag and bake. When tender remove carefully, place
in a pretty dish, pour the juice over the apples, and
crown with whipped cream or a meringue made from the
whites of two eggs.
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
Raisin Apples. A simple dessert enjoyed by the
children consists of apples, cored and each cavity filled
with sugar, nutmeg, a bit of butter and two or three
raisins. Add one cupful of hot water, put in bag and
bake in a slow oven. This may be varied occasionally
by placing a meringue on the top of each apple when
done, and cooking in a slow oven for seven minutes
longer. Serve cold.
Baked Apple Sauce. Peel and core firm apples of
good flavor. Stick three cloves in each and put bits of
mace and cinnamon in the core spaces. Put them in a
well buttered bag with two heaping cupfuls of sugar and
a half cupful of water. Cook thirty minutes. Have the
oven very hot at first, but slack heat after seven minutes.
Lemon juice instead of water makes a richer flavored
sauce. In that case add a half cupful more sugar at the
Baked Bananas. Peel and remove coarse threads,
cut the pulp in halves lengthwise, dust with sugar and
sprinkle with lemon juice, put in buttered bag and bake
fifteen minutes, or roll the bananas in hot marmalade,
Stuffed Dates. Select large, fine fruit, wash quick-
ly and remove the pit. Put into the cavity a bit of crys-
tallized ginger or citron, a nut or little candied peel, roll
in confectioner's sugar and lay in lightly buttered bag
left open at one end. Put in coolish oven to harden.
Baked Gooseberries. Put into a greased bag a pint
of " topped and tailed " gooseberries, add a cupful each
sugar and water, seal and cook twenty minutes.
Baked Peaches. Pour boiling water over the fruit,
then rub off the skins and place in buttered bag without
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 115
removing the pits. Add a teaspoonful of water for each
peach, seal and bake about twenty minutes in a hot oven.
When done, sweeten to taste and set aside to chill before
using. Serve with sweet cream.
Baked Pears. Select ripe, fine-flavored fruit, snip
out the blossom end and stick in a clove. If the skin is
thin, do not peel., but if tough, remove, put in buttered
bag with a little water, seal and cook from fifteen to
thirty minutes according to the quality of the fruit.
Baked Plums. Put in buttered bag with a little
water and cook twenty or twenty-five minutes. Sweeten
to taste when done.
Baked Quinces. Wash, core and peel, fill the cen-
ters with sugar and put in greased bag with two table-
spoonfuls of water allowed for each quince. Seal and
bake slowly for an hour, until the quince is tender but
not mushy. Serve with the quince syrup and a spoonful
of whipped cream on top of each quince.
Baked Raisins. Remove stems, clean well, put in a
colander and wash thoroughly. Put in buttered bag with
a cupful of water for each cupful of raisins. Seal and
cook slowly for half an hour. A mixture of dried apri-
cots, prunes and cherries is nice with the raisins, but
these fruits need long soaking in cold water before add-
ing to the raisins and cooking.
Chestnut Patties. Beat together, until smooth, one
egg and one cupful of pulverized sugar. Add one cup-
ful of chestnut meats that have been put through a nut
grinder, five tablespoonfuls of flour and one teaspoonful
of baking powder. Beat lightly, then drop by spoonfuls
on buttered tins. Dust with pulverized sugar and cinna-
mon. Put in bag and bake in a quick oven.
USE tin or agate pie plates for paper bag cookery.
Line with a delicate crust, and prick the bottom with a
fork. Turn in whatever filling you elect to have, and
put on top crust or the latticed bars. Cut a cross in the
center of a solid crust and turn back the points or prick
with a fork. Any pie can be baked in a paper bag with
advantage. Cook two pies at once, shifting midway in
the cooking from the upper to the lower shelves and vice
versa. Have the oven hot when the pies go in, but re-
duce the heat as soon as the bag corners turn brown.
Average pies require about half an hour for the baking.
Plain Pie Crust. For each pie allow a heaping cup-
ful of pastry flour and sift into a cold bowl with a half
teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of baking pow-
der. Have ready a quarter cupful of butter that has
been washed in cold water, then chilled on the ice. Work
into the sifted flour a quarter cupful of lard or
vegetable shortening, using the tips of the fingers
or a case knife. As soon as the flour begins
to feel like coarse meal, moisten to a dough with
cold water. Add a little at a time, handling the crust as
lightly as possible. It will take about a quarter of a
cupful of water to a heaping cupful of flour. Toss on a
smooth board, dredged lightly with flour, pat and roll a
quarter of an inch in thickness, keeping the sheet of
paste a little wider than it is long. Now place the chilled
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 117
butter on the center of the lower half of the paste and
cover by folding the upper part of the sheet over it.
Press the edges together so as to inclose as much air as
possible. Fold the right side of the paste over the in-
closed butter and the left side under. Turn the paste
half way around, pat into shape and roll out lightly hav-
ing the sheet of paste longer than it is wide, and lifting
often to prevent its sticking to the board. Dredge slight-
ly with flour when necessary. Fold again so as to make
three layers, divide in halves, pat and roll out the one in-
tended for the lower crust having it a little larger than
the pie plate, to allow for shrinkage. Fold back the
rolled out crust and readjust in the pie tin letting it
come well up over the edge, then pressing back. Turn
in the filling then roll out the upper crust. When this
reaches the required size, fold over and perforate the
center, piercing with a fork or using a knife to make anjr
pattern desired, and place in position over the pie.
Apple Pie. Peel and slice thin, tart, well flavored
apples. Put in crust, sprinkle with sugar, dust with
cinnamon or nutmeg, cover with latticed or full crust,
put in bag, and bake half an hour in a steady oven.
A New Apple Pie. Peel and core about eight or ten
apples or as many as are wanted. Make a rich pastry
dough and cut in strips about two inches wide. Wind a
strip around each apple, but do not cover it. Fill the
center of each apple with butter, sugar and water.
Sprinkle with nutmeg, put in bag, then in the oven and
bake. Serve with or without cream.
Deep Apple Pie With Cream Cheese. Bake a
nice apple pie about three-quarters of an hour before
dinner. Have a small cream cheese pressed through a
ricer and mixed with a cup of whipped cream and a little
118 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
salt. Press through a pastry tube or tin funnel on top
of the pie in a pattern, and serve warm for dessert.
The cheese and cream combination may also be used on
a two crust apple pie.
Cranberry Pie. Line a rather deep pie plate with
a plain crust. Put on a border of richer paste, fill with
cranberries cooked according to directions for stewed
cranberries, and put strips of crust over the top, making
squares or diamonds as preferred. Put in bag and bake.
Cranberry and Raisin Pie. Allow to each pie a
cup and a half cranberries and a half cup of raisins. The
latter should be seeded and the berries washed and cut
in two. Mix with them a cup of sugar, a tablespoon of
flour, and a teaspoonful of butter. Fill a pie plate lined
with crust, heaping up slightly in the middle. Cover
with an upper crust, bag, and bake in a hot oven.
Lemon Pie. Beat the yolks of three eggs lightly, add
one cup of sugar slowly and then the juice and grated
yellow rind of one lemon. Beat hard and stir in two
even tablespoons of flour made smooth in one cup of
milk. Turn into a paste lined plate and bake about half
an hour in a paper bag. Cool partly and cover with the
whites of three eggs beaten stiff with six even table-
spoons of powdered sugar. Pile roughly and set in a
very cool oven to become firm.
Mince Pie. A simple rule for making mince meat by
measure, calls for a pint bowl of well cooked beef chop-
ped to the finest mince and measured after chopping, two
bowls of tart apples chopped into coarse bits and a half
bowl chopped suet. Add to this a pound of seeded
raisins, also chopped, a pound of currants, a quarter of
a pound of citron cut in thin slices, a tablespoonful each
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 119
of powdered cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg. Use enough
sweet cider to make moist, then add a bowl of sugar and
an even teaspoonful salt. Scald well and put away in
a stone jar. When you make the pies add a few whole
raisins, chopped nut meats or any jelly you have on
When mince pie is to be reheated for dinner and
served hot, grated cheese may be sprinkled over the top
just before setting it in the oven to .heat.
Mock Mince Pie. To four quarts green tomatoes,
chopped fine, allow three pounds brown sugar, the juice
of two lemons and their yellow rind, grated, a table-
spoonful each cinnamon, allspice and salt, half a tea-
spoonful cloves and a tablespoonful of grated nutmeg.
Put into a porcelain lined kettle and simmer gently until
reduced one half in bulk. Now add two pounds and one-
half seeded raisins, or part raisins and part currants or
chopped prunes and a cup of boiled cider. Then cook an
hour or two longer until thick. Bake as any mince pie.
Pecan Pie With One Crust. One cup of sugar,
three eggs, one cup of sweet cream, one cup of pecans
well mashed. Beat very light, pour into two pie pans
that are lined with good rich paste, put in bag and bake.
Real Old Fashioned Pumpkin Pie. If you are fortu-
nate enough to get a genuine old fashioned field pump-
kin, you may be thankful. If forbidden that privilege,
the canned pumpkin or the dried pumpkin flour, or again
a Hubbard squash or a big yellow one, may be so man-
ipulated as to deceive even a connoisseur on pumpkin
pies, into thinking he has the very kind that " Mother
used to make," and giving thanks accordingly. If the
field pumpkin is yours, wash, cut up without peeling,
scrape out all the wooly fiber, then put over the fire on
120 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
the back of the stove. Add just a little water to keep
it from sticking on the bottom, cover closely and steam
gently for six or eight hours. At the end of this time
the pumpkin pulp should be thoroughly cooked in its own
juices. Take up, cool a little, then pull off the skin with
a sharp knife. Press through a sieve and let it stand
overnight in a press so as to remove the superfluous
liquid, which should be saved to use in making Boston
brown bread. When ready to bake, measure the pulp
and to every five cupfuls allow one teaspoonful of salt,
half a grated nutmeg, a tablespoonful of mace, two tea-
spoonfuls of ginger and a large cupful of sugar. Beat
four eggs and stir into the pumpkin pulp, together with
four cupfuls of sweet milk and a half cupful cream.
Beat well and taste to see if it is sweet enough. Turn
into plates lined with good pastry, bag, and bake three-
quarters of an hour until a golden brown and firm in the
center. Serve with good American cheese. Some old-
fashioned cooks like their pumpkin pies flavored with a
little rose water.
In making pies of the canned pumpkin, observe the
same proportions. If the pumpkin flour is used, spread
on a tin and brown before adding the milk.
The English fashion of baking pumpkin as well as
mince pies in individual shells, is preferred by many
who do not feel the compelling force of tradition. A
new wrinkle for the woman who holds to her pumpkin
pie for Thanksgiving, but wishes to present it in very
modern guise is to serve it with cottage cheese balls and
strained honey. The combination of flavors is certainly
a most happy one. The cheese balls are piled in a pretty
dish and the honey served from a glass bowl.
Individual English Apple Tart. Peel and core tart
apples, put into a large saucepan, cover with boiling
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 121
water, stew gently until the apples are tender but un-
broken. Sweeten to taste. Line the edges of a deep
pie tin with crust, then fill the center of the dish with ap-
ples, dropping into the center of each a spoonful of
orange marmalade. Cover the top of the dish with
strips of pastry arranged lattice fashion, bag, and bake
quickly until brown. Serve hot.
Colonial Pumpkin Tartlets. To one quart of
cooked and sifted pumpkin add one tablespoonful each
of butter and flour, six well beaten eggs, a cupful of
sugar, a quarter teaspoonful each of mace and nutmeg,
four teaspoonfuls of ginger and one gill of milk. Bake
in patty-pans lined with rich flaky crust, set in paper bag.
Remove from pans before serving. A touch of novelty
is given by topping each tartlet with a generous portion
of maple syrup or strained honey.
Apple and Cheese Turnovers. Make a crust,
using six heaping tablespoonfuls of flour, three table-
spoonfuls lard and butter, half and half, a saltspoonful
of salt and just enough water to roll out. Mark out into
squares of about four inches. Have ready some nice tart
apples sliced fine, and also cheese sliced very thin. Fill
each one with apples, sprinkle sugar and cinnamon over
the apple, put a tiny piece of butter on top, then turn
up the edges of the crust, overlapping the upper side
about two inches. Place in a buttered bag, and having wet
the edges of the crust with milk, bake to a nice brown.
Remove from the oven, raise up the upper crust, put in
the cheese, re-cover, turn a tin over the turnovers and
stand in the oven again for ten minutes, leaving the oven
door open. This softens the cheese. Eat while warm.
Caraway seeds may be used in place of cinnamon if de-
122 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
sired. The turnovers may be eaten plain with cream or
with a liquid sauce as preferred.
Apricot or Plum Jam Turnovers. Make a good
crust and roll out twice. Mark a square and spread
thickly with jam. Fold over two sides first and pinch
together, then fold over the other two sides in the same
way. Brush over with milk and sprinkle with brown
sugar. Put into well greased bag and bake thirty
Mince Turnovers. Make the original round of
paste about four inches across. Put a tablespoonful of
mince meat upon it, fold over very neatly and pinch the
edges together. Flatten and cook inside a buttered bag.
Banana Short Cake. BEAT to a cream one-half cup-
ful butter and one of sugar. Add two well-beaten eggs,
a pinch of salt and a teaspoonful of baking powder sifted
with a pint of flour. Flavor with vanilla. Mix lightly
and roll out into a sheet about half an inch thick. Cut
into rounds about four inches in diameter, and having
brushed each one over with melted butter, pile on top of
each other and put in buttered bag. Bake twelve
minutes, separate, and spread between the layers a thick
filling of sliced bananas flavored with lemon juice and
sweetened to taste. Serve with Foamy Sauce.
Peach Short Cake. Use for this either fresh peaches
or canned and make in one large short cake or individual
ones which are really nicer in paper bag cookery. For
the latter sift together a pint and a half of flour, two
tablespoonfuls of salt. Rub in with the tips of the
fingers two tablespoonfuls of butter, then add one beaten
egg and milk to make a soft dough. Cut out like biscuit,
bag and bake in a quick oven. When baked, split in two,
spread lightly with butter and fill with the sweetened
peaches and whipped cream, a layer of peaches first and
cream on top. Cover the little short cakes in the same
way, piling up the whipped cream on top.
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
Rhubarb Short Cake. Stew rhubarb and sweeten
to taste. Make a short cake batter, using one-quarter
cupful of butter and a half cupful sugar creamed to-
gether, one egg well beaten, one quarter cupful sweet
milk and one cupful of flour sifted with one teaspoonful
of baking powder. Make in two large layers or indi-
vidual ones, and bake in paper bag. When done, spread
with the rhubarb filling and serve with whipped cream
or a cream sauce.
Old Fashioned Strawberry Short Cake. The real
old-fashioned strawberry short cake may be made with
sour cream or rich sour milk and soda, or sweet milk and
baking powder. Sometimes an egg is added and a
tablespoon ful of sugar, but it is a far cry from the
French strawberry short cake of hotels and restaurants
which is really a cake, either sponge or layer, with whole
berries between the layers and thick whipped cream or a
meringue on top. To make the genuine old-fashioned
sour milk biscuit short cake, which is really more tender
than that made with sweet milk, put four cups sifted
pastry flour in a mixing bowl with a half teaspoonful of
salt and mix well. Add three tablespoonfuls of butter
and chop fine, using a silver knife. Dissolve a level
teaspoonful of soda in a little hot water and stir into a
large cupful of sour cream or rich sour milk. When it
stops "purring" add a tablespoonful of sugar and one
well beaten egg to the milk and turn into the sifted flour.
Mix well together with a spatula or flexible knife,
handling as little as possible, then turn out on to a floured
board. The dough should be soft enough to roll easily.
Divide and roll lightly and quickly into two thin sheets.
These may be baked separately in well greased round
tins in a paper bag or laid one on top of the other with
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 125
a thin coating of butter between and baked in one bag.
Bake in a very hot oven. When done, separate. Have
ready a quart of ripe berries washed, crushed and su-
gared. This should have been done before beginning
the dough, so that the sugar will have time to draw out
the rich juice of the berries. Cover the lower half of
the short cake with a thick layer of these berries, place
the second cake on top and cover with the rest of the
crushed and sweetened berries or large whole ones dusted
with powdered sugar. Serve with thick cream or a
crushed berry sauce.
Almond Pudding. Blanche one pound of almonds
and grind to a smooth paste with two teaspoonfuls of rose
water. Add a wine glass of wine and a half cupful of
cream thickened with a large spoonful of bread crumbs.
Add a half pound of sugar, seven well beaten eggs and a
half teaspooiiful of grated nutmeg. Put in a thin walled
pudding dish, set in bag, seal and bake half an hour.
Apple and Fig Pudding. Select large tart baking
apples, wash and core. Stuff each apple with a fig rolled
small as possible or chopped, as preferred. Put in but-
tered bag and bake slowly until tender, but not broken.
Place in a glass dish and cover with a thick boiled cus-
tard. Decorate each apple with a candied or Maraschino
cherry and serve with sweet wafers.
Banana Pudding. Beat the yolks of three eggs and
whites of two. Add a cupful of sugar, a scant half cup-
ful softened butter, a cupful stale cake crumbs and a
cupful of milk. Beat all together well, then add three
126 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
bananas sliced thin, and the juice of a half lemon. Put
into a basin then in a well buttered bag, seal and bake
half an hour, take out, cover with a meringue made from
the whipped white of the egg that was left over and a
tablespoonful of sugar with a little lemon juice to flavor.
Strew a little candied peel over the meringue and set in
the oven, which should be quite cool for the meringue to
rise slowly and stiffen. Serve with lemon sauce.
Farmer's Plum Pudding. Put into a basin two
cupfuls of flour sifted with two level teaspoonfuls baking
powder, a pinch of salt and a level teaspoonful ginger
and cinnamon. Add one-half cupful sugar, one cupful
chopped suet, one-half cupful each candied peel and cur-
rants and raisins. Make to batter consistency with one-
half cupful each molasses and milk and one beaten egg.
Put in small buttered molds, set in paper bag, pour in
enough cold water to come three parts up the sides, seal
and bake two hours, reducing the heat of the oven after
the first ten minutes. Serve with hard or foamy sauce.
Peach Betty. Sprinkle a layer of crumbs in a but-
tered baking dish and over this a layer of peach quarters.
Sprinkle with sugar, then repeat a layer of crumbs and
peaches and sugar until the dish is filled, having the
crumbs on top. Put in buttered bag and bake thirty-five
minutes in a moderate oven, and serve with sweetened
cream. To prepare the buttered crumbs melt a little
butter and pour over the crumbs.
Peach Cobbler. For this the richest and ripest
peaches are none too good. Some variety of the yellow
peach is usually chosen because of its superior richness.
For its baking a pudding dish at least three and a half
inches deep is chosen. This is lined with a rich crust, a
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 127
square of the dough being taken from the bottom. Now
peel enough ripe and luscious peaches to fill the dish,
tearing them apart but leaving the pits in to impart their
superior flavor. Sweeten abundantly, add about two
tablespoonfuls water, and a tablespoonful of butter cut in
bits. Cover with a layer of puff paste, sealing it down
carefully on the sides to the border, so as to lose none
of the juices. Bag and bake in a quick oven for forty-
five minutes. When nearly done, draw to the edge of
the oven, open the top of the bag, dust with pow-
dered sugar and set back a few moments longer for the
crust to glaze. This is perfection, whether eaten hot
or cold, serving it alone, with cream or with a hard
sauce as preferred.
Peach Roly Poly. Make a sweet biscuit dough.
Roll out thin and spread with a layer of sliced or chopped
peaches and roll the dough over as for jelly roll. Put
in buttered bag and bake in a moderate oven.
Plum Roly Poly. Wash and stew any ripe sound
plums and remove the pits. If very juicy, drain away
the most of the juice. Sweeten to taste. Make a good
biscuit dough or puff paste as preferred, roll out in long
strips, sprinkle sugar on the upper side, then spread
thinly with the stewed plums, roll up and pinch the ends
tight. Put in buttered bag and cook thirty minutes.
Serve with a sauce made from the extra juice sweeteend
and slightly thickened with a little cornstarch.
Rye Bread Pudding. Toast stale rye bread to a
golden brown, then roll into fine crumbs. Brush small
custard cups or a mould with melted butter, sprinkle
over a few currants, raisins, prunes (cut fine) or figs,
128 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
then fill with crumbs. Beat three eggs without sep-
arating until light, add three tablespoonfuls of sugar, a
pint of milk (with vanilla or nutmeg to flavor) and pour
carefully over the bread crumbs. Let them stand ten
minutes, until the mixture has soaked into the crumbs;
then set in a paper bag in a pan of cold water and cook
like a custard in the oven. It will take about half an
hour. Test by slipping the blade of the knife down the
side of the bag. If it comes up clear, the pudding is
sufficiently baked. Serve hot with lemon or egg sauce
or fruit syrup.
Tapioca Apple Pudding. Soak one cupful tapioca
in three pints cold water over night. In the morning put
on to boil and cook twenty or thirty minutes, until it looks
clear. Add a quart and a half peeled and quartered
apples, one cup of sugar, a teaspoonful salt, and lemon
juice or extract to flavor. Turn into a buttered dish,
put in bag and bake an hour in a moderate oven. When
cold serve with cream and sugar.
A White Plum Pudding. Beat to a cream a half
cup of sugar and three-quarters cup of butter. Add four
eggs well beaten, a saltspoonful of salt, two cups milk,
a quart of flour mixed with one-half cup shredded
citron, one-half cup currants, a teaspoonful grated nut-
meg and a teaspoonful vanilla. Just before turning
into the mould stir in two even tablespoonfuls pure bak-
ing powder. Put in bag, surround with water, steam two
hours and serve with any good sauce.
Caramel Sauce. Put one-half cupful of sugar over
the fire in a clean, smooth saucepan and stir until it be-
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 129
comes a light brown color. Pour in a half cupful of
boiling water, simmer ten minutes, add a tablespoonful
of butter and serve with pudding or fritters.
Cornstarch Pudding Sauce. Beat together one
tablespoonful cornstarch, two tablespoonfuls of butter
and a half cupful of brown sugar. Set on the stove until
heated, then turn in hot water a little at a time and cook
until consistency required. Add four tablespoonfuls of
grape or apple jelly with spices or other flavoring to
taste, and serve hot.
Cream Sauce. Mix together two tablespoonfuls
each of cornstarch and sugar. Add one beaten egg and
cook in double boiler until thickened. Add a table-
spoonful of butter and flavoring to taste.
Cream Sauce a la Hotel Astor. Beat together one
cupful each sugar and butter until perfectly blended. Add
cream until mixture is like thick cream, dust with nutmeg
or mace and serve.
Delicious Fruit Sauce for Plum Pudding. Boil to-
gether one cupful of water and two of sugar for ten
minutes. Thicken slightly with three level teaspoonfuls
arrow root or two teaspoonfuls corn starch mixed with
a little cold water, simmer five minutes, then add a half
cupful candied cherries, cut in halves and a few pistache
nuts quartered. Flavor with nutmeg or vanilla as pre-
Hard Sauce for Plum Pudding. Beat one cupful
of butter to a cream. Add sugar gradually, two cupfuls
in all, beating until very light. Add the whites of two
130 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
eggs beaten to a stiff dry foam. Arrange on a flat glass
dish and grate a little nutmeg over it.
Molasses Sauce. To make molasses sauce, which is
an excellent accompaniment to a plain rice or apple
pudding, mix together one cupful of molasses, a table-
spoonful of vinegar or the juice of one lemon, a salt-
spoonful of salt and a tablespoonful of butter. Boil ten
MENUS AND INDEXES
PAPER BAG MENUS FOR WINTER.
BREAKFAST NO. 1.
Sweetbreads with Bacon (Paper-bagged)
BREAKFAST NO. 2.
Spindled Oysters with Bacon (Paper-bagged)
Warmed over Rolls (Paper-bagged)
BREAKFAST NO. 3.
Baked Apples (Paper-bagged)
Beefsteak Leftovers (Paper-bagged)
Sweet Potatoes Southern Style (in paper-bag)
STANDARD PAPER, BAG COOKERY
LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 1.
Chicken Croquettes (Bagged)
Hot Biscuit (Bagged)
LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 2.
Pyster Bundles (Bagged)
Baked Potatoes (Bagged)
Pork Cake (Bagged)
Baked Quinces (Bagged)
LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 3.
Mock Fried Oysters (Bagged)
Sally Lunn (Bagged)
Sponge Cake (Bagged)
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 135
DINNER NO. 1.
Grapefruit with Maraschino Cherries
Smelts Milanaise (Bagged)
Roast Chicken (Bagged) Baked Potatoes (Bagged)
Currant or Cranberry Jelly (Bagged)
Baked Onions (Bagged) Lettuce Salad
Plum Pudding (Bagged) Hard Sauce
DINNER NO. 2.
Grilled Sardines on Crackers (Bagged)
Ripe Olives Celery Salted Almonds (Cooked in Bag)
Ducks (Roasted in Bag)
Candied Sweet Potatoes Southern Style (in Bag)
Cranberry Molds, Biscuit (Bagged)
Baked Apples Stuffed with Nuts (Bagged)
Served with Cream
DINNER NO. 3.
Anchovy Canapes (Bagged)'
Roast Veal (Bagged)
Baked Potatoes (Bagged)
Spinach (Paper Bagged)]
Endive and Roquefort Cheese Salad
Cheese Straws (Paper-bagged)
Mince Pie (Paper Bagged)
136 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
PAPER BAG MENUS FOR SPRING.
BREAKFAST NO. 1.
Baked Rhubarb and Raisins (Paper-bagged)
Crisped Sweet Potatoes (Paper-bagged)
Rolls (Reheated in bag)
BREAKFAST NO. 2.
Strawberries au Naturel
Eggs in Cocottes (Paper-bagged)
BREAKFAST NO. 3.
Baked Prunes (Paper-bagged)
Sweetbreads (Bagged) Water Cress
Baking Powder Biscuit (Bagged)
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 137
LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 1.
Bhubarb Short Cake (Paper-bagged)
Cold Veal Loaf (Paper-bagged)
Chocolate Cake (Bagged)
LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 2.
Crab Meat au Gratin (Paper-bagged)
Mrs. Kelder's Loaf Cake (Bagged)
LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 3.
Chicken Croquettes (Paper-bagged)
Good Friday Cake (Paper-bagged)
138 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
DINNER NO. 1.
Caviare Canapes (Bagged)
Salted Nuts (Bagged) Olives
Roast Leg of Lamb (Bagged) Mint Sauce
Baked Potatoes (Bagged)
Stuffed Baked Onions (Bagged)
Rhubarb Pie (Bagged)
DINNER NO. 2.
Bouchees of Sardines (Bagged)
Deviled Almonds (Bagged) Radishes
Breast of Lamb with Tomato Sauce (Bagged)
Baked Potatoes without their Jackets (Bagged)
Rhubarb Short Cake (Bagged)
DINNER NO. 3.
Strawberries au Naturel on Orange Slices
Mussels au Gratin (Bagged)
Irish Stew (Bagged)
Scalloped Tomatoes (Bagged)
STANDARD PAPER' BAG COOKERY 139
PAPER BAG MENUS FOR SUMMER.
BREAKFAST NO. 1.
Creamed Mushrooms (Bagged)
BREAKFAST NO. 2.
Blackberries with Cream
Crisped Bacon and Liver (Bagged)
Bolls (Bagged) Radishes
BREAKFAST NO. 3.
Corn Fritters (Bagged)
Baked Egg in Tomato Cases (Bagged)
140 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 1.
Veal Loaf (Bag-cooked)
Raspberry Short Cake (Bag-cooked) with Cream
LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 2.
Cold Game Pie (Cooked in Bag)
Hot Biscuit (Cooked in Bag)
Oatmeal Crisps (Cooked in Bag)
LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 3.
Stuffed Tomatoes with Cream (Bag-cooked)
Baked Lamb, Sweetbreads (Bag-cooked)
Bread and Butter
Raspberries Potato Caramel Cake (Bag-cooked)
STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 141
DINNER NO. 1.
Lamb Chops (Bagged) Mint Jelly
Green Peas (Bagged)
String Bean Salad
DINNER NO. 2.
Sardines and Lemon
Saute of Chicken with Mushrooms (Bagged)
Sweet Potatoes en Brochette (Paper-hagged)
Sliced Tomatoes with French Dressing
Potato Chocolate Cake (Baked in Bag)
DINNER NO. 3.
Roast Lamb (Paper-bagged) Mint Sauce, Currant Jelly
New Potatoes (Bagged) Parsley Sauce
Oriental String Beans (Paper-bagged)
Cucumbers (Dressed with oil and vinegar)
Neufchatel Cheese and Wafers
Lemon Ice Chocolate Wafers (Bag-cooked)
Iced Tea with Lemon.
142 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
PAPER BAG MENUS FOR AUTUMN.
BREAKFAST NO. 1.
Peaches and Cream
Fried Tomatoes (Paper-bagged) Cream Gravy
Blueberry Biscuit (Paper-bagged)
BREAKFAST NO. 2.
Baked Apples (Bagged-cooked) with Cream
Eggs Baked in Tomatoes (Paper-bagged)
Baked Potatoes (Bagged)
BREAKFAST NO. 3.
Ham with Apples (Bagged)
Sweet Potatoes (Bagged)
Corn Meal Gems (Bag-cooked)
STANDARD PAPEBS BAG COOKERY 143
LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 1.
Cold Roast Chicken (Paper-Lagged)
Baked Potatoes (Bagged)
Tomatoes with Mayonnaise
Bread and Butter Folds
Baked Sweet Apples with Cream (Bagged), 1
Chocolate Cake (Bagged),
LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 2.
Corn Patties (Bagged)
Scalloped Potatoes (Bagged)
Farmer's Fruit Cake (Bagged)
LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 3.
Baked Potatoes en Surprise (Bagged);
Chicken Croquettes (Paper-bagged)
Sliced Tomatoes with French Dressing
Baked Apples with Nuts (Bagged),
144 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
DINNER MENU NO. 1.
Caviare Canapes (Cooked in Bag)
Sauer Braten with Carrots and Onions (Bagged)
Baked Potatoes (Bagged)
Lima Beans (Bagged)
Peach Short Cake (Paper-bagged)
DINNER MENU NO. 2.
Caviare Canape's (Cooked in Bag)
Deviled Chestnuts (Paper-bagged)
Roast Pork (Bagged)
Sweet Potatoes (Bagged)
Baked Egg Plant (Bagged)
Apple Pie (Paper-bagged) with Cream Cheese
DINNER MENU NO. 3.
Grapes and Peaches
Cream of Chestnut Soup with Croutons (Cooked in Bag)
Roast Duck (Bagged) Spiced Grapes
Sweet Potatoes (Bagged)
Baked Tomatoes (Bagged)
Grape Pie (Baked in Bag)
A FEW OF THE EASIEST DISHES FOR
Baked Potatoes in their Jackets Page 96
Baked Potatoes without Jackets " 96
Bacon and Apples 70
Sausage and Apples " 72
Bacon and Bananas 70
Sausage with Tomatoes " 73
Roast Loin of Pork " 72
Hot Cheese Canapes " 20
Caviare Canapes " 20
Cheese and Cracker Canapes 20
Cracker Crisps " 21
Roast Clams " 26
Lobster in Shells " 29
Baked Blue Fish " 31
Filets of Flounder " 34
Lamb Chops " 67
Roast Leg of Lamb " 69
Roast Chicken " 50
Vealettes " 76
Baked Onions " 94
Sweet Potatoes and Bacon " 97
Spinach " 98
Peas " 94
146 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY
Turnips " 99
Baking Powder Biscuits " 101
Baked Apples " 112
Cinnamon Apples 113
Apple Dumplings " 112
Baked Pears " 115
Mrs. Kelder's Loaf Cake " 107
Oatmeal Cakes " 109
Pork Cake " 109
Mince Turnovers " 122
Individual Apple Tart " 12Q
APPETIZERS AND RELISHES: PAGE
Bouchee Cases 18
Bonne Bouchee 19
Bouchees of Caviare, Olives and Mayonnaise 19
Bouchees of Sardines 19
Bouchees of Sausage or Tongue 19
Canape's, The Making of 19
[Anchovy Canape's 20
Caviare Canape's 20
Hot Cheese Canape's 20
Cheese and Crackers Canape's 20
Cheese Toast Sandwiches 20
Cracker Crisps 21
Deviled Crackers 21
Diables & Cheval 21
Nut Appetizers 21
Salted Almonds 21
Deviled Almonds 22
Roasted Chestnuts 22
Salted Chestnuts 22
Deviled Chestnuts 22
Bullock's Heart 61
Stewed Bullock's Heart 61
Filet of Beef 61
Hamburg Steak 62
Pot Roast 6
Rib Roast of Beef 63
Roast Round of Beef in Paper Bag 64
Sauer Braten 64
Beef Steak 65
Toledo Beef Steak 65
Stuffed Koast Beef or "Mock Duck" 65
Cheese Cakes 104
Cinnamon Cake 105
English Fairy Cakes 105
Fruit Cookies 106
Mrs. Godfrey's Soft Ginger Bread 106
Good Friday Cake 106
German Honey Cakes 107
Pecan Kisses 107
Mrs. Kelder's Loaf Cake 107
Hickory Nut Macaroons 108
Walnut Macaroons 108
Maple Sugar Cake 108
Molasses Coffee Cake 108
Nut Cake 108
Oatmeal Cakes 109
German Peach Cake 109
Pork Cake 109
Potato Chocolate Cake 110
Potato Caramel Cake 110
Auburn Pound Cake Ill
Raisin Nut Cake Ill
Sour Cream Cake Ill
CHEESE AND EGG DISHES:
Cheese Balls with Tomato Sauce 87
Cheese Fritters to Serve with Salad Course 87
Pepper Cheese 87
Cheese Ramekins 88
Cheese and Eggs 88
Baked Eggs 88
Baked Eggs with Cheese 88
A Paper Bag Omelette 88
Cheese Omelette 89
Swiss Eggs 89
Eggs in Tomato Cups 89
FISH [(also see Shell Fish);:
Filet of Bass 31
Baked Blue Fish 31
Bloaters, A Breakfast Dish of 31
Cat Fish 32
Codfish Cones 32
Codfish a la Creme 32
Eels, Paper Bagged 33
Flounder a la Meunie"re 33
Filets of Flounder 34
Finnan Haddie 34
Fish Cakes 34
New England Fish Pie 35
Fish Souffle* 35
Planked -Fish Bag Cooked 36
Halibut a la Poulette 37
Herring au Gratin 37
Herrings with Herbs 37
Kippered Mackerel with Fine Herbs 38
Salmon Loaf 38
Scalloped Salmon 38
Salmon Souffle* 39
Baked Shad 39
Shad Roe 39
Bagged Weak Fish 40
White Fish Planked 41
FISH SAUCE (also see Sauces and Gravies) :
Anchovy Sauce 42
Quick Bearnaise Sauce 42
Bearnaise Sauce 42
Brown Sauce 43
Curry Sauce 43
Egg Sauce 43
Sauce Hollandaise 43
Egg Sauce Made from the Hollandaise 44
Lobster Sauce 44
Maitre d'Hotel Butter 44
Sauce for Broiled Shad a la Murray 45
Parsley Butter 45
Sauce Tartare 45
Baked Apples 112
Baked Apple Dumplings 112
Cold Baked Apples with Rum 112
Cinnamon Apples 113
Apples Stuffed with Figs 113
Baked Apples and Nuts 113
Raisin Apples 114
Baked Apple Sauce 114
Baked Bananas 114
Stuffed Dates 114
Baked Gooseberries 114
Baked Peaches 114
Baked Pears 115
Baked Plums 115
Baked Quinces 115
Baked Raisins 115
Chestnut Patties 115
GAME [(see Poultry and Game) :
LAMB AND MUTTON:
Breast of Lamb with Tomato Sauce 67
Lamb Chops 67
Lamb or Mutton Cutlets with Tomatoes 67
Lamb Fry 68
Lamb's Kidney 68
Leg of Mutton Cooked in Cider 68
Mutton Chops and Sausage 68
Ragout of Lamb 68
Roast Leg of Lamb 69
A Genuine Irish Stew 69
Plain Pie Crust 116
Apple Pie 117
Deep Apple Pie with Cream Cheese 117
Cranberry Pie Hg
Cranberry and Raisin Pie 118
Lemon Pie 118
Mince Pie 118
Mock Mince Pie 119
Pecan Pie with One Crust 119
Real Old-Fashioned Pumpkin Pie 119
Individual English Apple Tart 120
Colonial Pumpkin Tartlets 121
Apple and Cheese Turnovers 121
Apricot or Plum Jam Turnovers 122
Mince Turnovers 122
PORK IN VARIED FORMS:
Bacon and Apples 70
Bacon and Bananas 70
Bacon and Calf's Liver 70
Baked Pork Chops 70
Pork Chops and Sweet Potatoes 70
Ham and Scalloped Potatoes 71
Ham, Spinach and Lamb Chops 71
Stuffed Fresh Ham or Shoulder 72
Roast Loin of Pork 72
Roast Spare-Rib 72
Baked Sausage with Apples 72
Baked Sausage and Potato 72
Baked Sausage with Toast 73
Baked Sausage with Tomatoes 73
Tenderloin of Pork 73
POULTRY AND GAME:
Capon , 47
Chicken with Parsnips 48
Chicken d. la Balitmore 48
Chicken Croquettes 48
Paper Bagged Chicken 49
Chicken Pie 49
Paste for Chicken Pie 50
Chicken Rissoles 50
Roast Chicken 50
Saute of Chicken with Mushrooms 50
Smothered Chicken 51
Ducks with Banana Dressing 51
Canvas Backs 51
Chicken, Italian Style 52
Roast Wild Duck 52
Roast Wild Duck, Ohio Style 53
Frogs' Legs 53
Paper Bag Roast Goose 53
Sage and Potato Stuffing 54
Roasted Young Guinea Fowl 54
Broiled Young Guinea Hen 55
Stuffed Quail 56
Rabbit Cookery 56
Barbecued Rabbit 56
Roast Rabbit 57
Stewed Rabbit 57
Reed Birds 58
Barbecued Squirrel, (Southern Style) 58
Turkey la Bonham 59
Venison Steak 60
PUDDINGS AND PUDDING SAUCEES:
'Almond Pudding 125
Apple and Fig Pudding 125
Banana Pudding 125
Farmer's Plum Pudding 126
Peach Betty 126
Peach Cobbler 126
Peach Roly-Poly 127
Plum Roly-Poly 127
Rye Bread Pudding 127
Tapioca Apple Pudding 128
A White Plum Pudding 128
Caramel Sauce 1 28
Cornstarch Pudding Sauce 129
Cream Sauce 129
Cream Sauce & la Hotel Astor 129
Delicious Fruit Sauce for Plum Pudding 129
Hard Sauce for Plum Pudding 129
Molasses Sauce 130
Beef Steak Left Overs 83
Chicken Croquettes 83
Mock Fried Oysters 84
Turkey Croquettes 84
Edinboro Hot Pot 84
Individual Meat Pies 85
English Pasties 85
Olla Podrida Pie 85
Oyster Bundles 86
SAUCES AND GRAVIES:
Bignon's Sauce 78
Bread Sauce 78
Brown Sauce 78
Celery Sauce 79
Currant Jelly Sauce 79
Curry Sauce 79
Hollandaise Sauce 79
Horseradish Sauce 80
Maitre d'Hotel Butter 80
Mexican Sauce 80
Mint Sauce for Roast Lamb 80
French Mustard Sauce, Creole Style 81
Mustard Sauce for Cold Meat 81
Onion Sauce 81
Spanish Sauce 81
Thick Tomato Sauce 82
Sauce Tartare 82
Clam Pies 26
Roast Clams 26
Crabs, Soft and Hard 26
Creamed Crabs 27
Crabs Deviled a la William Penn 27
Crab Meat au Gratin 27
Crab Flakes au Gratin 28
Lobster Chops 28
Coquilles of Lobster 28
Lobster in Shells 29
Mussels au Gratin 29
Boxed Oysters (Virginia Style) 29
Spindled Oysters and Bacon 30
Banana Short Cakes 123
Peach Short Cake 123
Rhubarb Short Cake 124
Old-Fashioned Strawberry Short Cake 124
Bread Sticks 23
Croutons Toasted 23
Crisped Crackers 23
Egg Balls 23
Forcemeat Balls, or Quenelles 24
Baked Calf's Liver 74
Calves' Brains in Tempting but Inexpensive Ways.. 74
Breaded Brains 74
Baked Sweetbreads 75
Sweetbreads with Bacon 75
Larded Sweetbreads 75
Sweetbreads Straight 76
Veal Loaf 76
Shoulder of Veal Stuffed and Braised 77
Asparagus , 90
Asparagus with Cheese 90
Lima Beans 90
String Beans, Oriental Style 91
Boston Baked Bean Cakes 91
Bean Croquettes 91
German Cabbage 92
Cabbage Hot Slaw 92
Carrot Saute 92
Stuffed Eggplant 93
Lentil Cutlets 93
Baked Onions 94
Stuffed Baked Onions 94
Onions with Cheese 94
Green Peas 94
Stuffed Peppers 95
Peppers with Cream Fish 96
Baked Irish Potatoes 96
Baked Potatoes without their Coats or Jackets 96
Potatoes en Surprise 96
Potatoes Farci 97
Sauer Kraut 97
\V aldrof Sauer Kraut 97
Sweet Potatoes and Bacon 97
Sweet Potato Straws 98
Sweet Potato en Brochette 98
Summer Squash in Butter 9
Stuffed Summer Squash 9
Stuffed Tomatoes with Cream 9
Turnip Balls 9
Stuffed Vine Leaves or Dolmas 99
WARM BREADS, BISCUITS, MUFFINS, ETC.:
Baking Powder Bread 1
Baking Powder Biscuits 101
Egg Biscuits 102
Maple Biscuits 102
Nut Biscuits 102
Raisin Biscuits 103
Hot Cross Buns 103
.Warmed Over Breads ^ 103
\ i/ you us.e onlif
* COOKERY BAGS
for Paper Bag
The perfected prod-
uct of much invest-
igation and many
/CONTINENTAL Cookery Bags are White,
^ Sanitary, Strong, Waterproof, Grease-
proof and entirely Odorless. In every way
they are Safe and Suitable.
Packages of 30 Bags, Conveniently Assorted,
with Special Clips and Book of Directions and
Recipes, 25c. A variety of sizes at the same
price per package.
CONTINENTAL PAPER BAG CO.
WHITEHALL BUILDING, NEW YORK
They are as Important as the Bags
Because they conserve all the delicate meat and vege-
table juices, adding a savory flavor to everything cooked
With our Cookery Dishes you can give to all meats the
delicious taste which has heretofore been secured only by
planking steaks and fish.
The sweet wood we use sugar-maple only is always
fresh, giving an effect that cannot be maintained perma-
nently by the ordinary plank.
Everything that can be cooked in a paper bag tastes
better if you use our Cookery Dishes also.
ASK YOUR DEALER ABOUT THEM
They are packed in cartons suitable for all purposes, assuring the de-
livery of clean and sanitary dishes in your kitchen.
THE OVAL WOOD DISH COMPANY
127 Franklin St., New York 436 Gravier St., New Orleaw
Manufacturers of "O.W.D." Butter Dishes, Picnic Plato, and Clothes Pins
Is recommended by physicians and culinary ex-
perts in place of butter and animal fats for all
cooking; it is more healthful and economical.
Wesson Snowdrift Oil
The Best Refined Vegetable Oil
Is Unexcelled for
Greasing Paper Bags
Y'OU can buy many different kinds of
* vegetable oils, but you can't get any-
thing equal to Wesson Snowdrift Oil. It
is refined by the Wesson process (the
only process yet discovered for properly
refining vegetable oils) and we control
that process. No other manufacturer can
use it. <| Wesson Snowdrift Oil has just
the right smoothness and consistency to
make rich and delicious salad dressings.
AT ALL GROCERS
On request, we will mail you our Wesson
Snowdrift Oil book of 150 recipes.
Please mention your grocer's name.
The Southern Cotton Oil Company
24 'Broad Street, New York, N. T.
Savannah Chicago New Orleans
This illustration shows a bag
properly closed ivitb clips.
The Cookery Bag Clip
is the only successful device for
effectually closing Paper Cookery Bags
The projecting lips permit the clips to slip on to
the bags easily; the free ends projecting outwardly
prevent the clips slipping off the bag when in use.
THE OAKVILLE COMPANY
Makers ot Sovran Pin s and the Clinton and T>amas cut
RETURN NATURAL RESOURCES LIBRARY
TO ^ 40 Gianinni Hall Tel. No. 642-4493
LOAN PERIOD 1
ALL BOOKS MAY BE RECALLED AFTER 7 DAYS
DUE AS STAMPED BELOW
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, BERKELEY
FORM NO. DDO, 50m, 1/82 BERKELEY, CA 94720
U.C. BERKELEY LIBRARIES