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Full text of "Standard paper-bag cookery"



STANDARD 

PAPER-BAG 

COOKERY 



EMMA 
PADDOCK. 
TELFORD 



STANDARD 
PAPER-BAG COOKERY 

By EMMA PADDOCK TELFORD 
ADAPTED TO THE NEEDS OF AMERICAN HOUSEWIVES 

Now good digestion wait on appetite, and health on both, 

Macbeth III, 4. 



STANDARD 

PAPER-BAG 

COOKERY 



BY 

EMMA PADDOCK TELFORD 

Household Editor of 
The Delineator, New Ideas, and The Designer 



NEW YORK 
CUPPLES & LEON COMPANY 



COPYRIGHT, 1912, BY 
CUPPLES & LEON COMPANY 



':" "/::.'? J 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER PAGE 

I. FOREWORD AND INTRODUCTION ... 7 

II. WHAT Is PAPER BAG COOKERY .... 9 

III. GENERAL DIRECTIONS ..... 12 

IV. TIME TABLE , ; 16 

V. APPETIZERS AND RELISHES .... 18 

VI. SOUP ACCESSORIES 23 

VII. SHELL FISH 25 

VIII. FISH SI 

IX. FISH SAUCE 42 

X. POULTRY AND GAME . . . . . 47 

XI. BEEF 61 

XII. LAMB AND MUTTON 67 

XIII. PORK IN VARIED FORMS 70 

XIV. VEAL 74 

XV. SAUCES AND GRAVIES 78 

XVI. RECOOKED DISHES 83 

XVII. CHEESE AND EGG DISHES .... 87 

XVIII. VEGETABLES 90 



405365 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

CHAPTER PAGE 

XIX. WARM BREADS, BISCUITS, MUFFINS, ETC. 101 

XX. CAKES . > . . 104 

XXI. FRUITS >, 112 

XXII. PASTRY w ......... 116 

XXIII. SHORT CAKES 123 

XXIV. PAPER BAG MENUS .... . . 133 

XXV. A FEW OF THE EASIEST DISHES FOR BE-. . . . 

GINNERS . 145 

INDEX 147 



FOREWORD 



IN giving this little book to the public, there has been 
in mind one thing practicability. 

The endeavor has been to make the directions for 
" Paper-bag Cookery " so clear and concise that even 
the inexperienced housekeeper may not be deterred from 
trying this new-old way of cooking foods delicately, 
digestibly, economically. 

No one is advised to try dishes as for instance soups, 
omelettes, macaroni and kin, and many desserts that 
may better be done by other methods. 

Neither has the author called for strange and divers 
seasonings and materials that are only to be found in 
the kitchens of the mighty and their attendant chefs. 

For the very large family or boarding house, pots and 
pans need still be called upon ; but for the small family, 
for the woman who does her own work and wishes to 
minimize labor, or for the epicurean but frugal housewife 
who looks personally after the details of her own little 
establishment, this paper-bag cookery is commended. If 
this little volume points the easiest way for the prepara- 
tion of nice dishes with a modicum of labor and a saving 
of time and money, it is all that its author and compiler 
asks. 



CHAPTER I. 
WHAT IS PAPER BAG COOKERY? 

THE principles contained in Paper-bag Cookery are 
not new. Woodsmen and hunters have known for ages 
that if they wanted fish or game done to a turn, a jacket 
of clay outside the meat which was protected from soil 
by leaves or corn husks, gave, on removing the clay case, 
the very quintessence of delicate, savory cookery. 

Now within the last two years, a series of experiments 
has resulted in the perfecting of a system of Paper-bag 
Cookery that revolutionizes the old time kitchen drudg- 
ery with its unending round of greasy pots and pans to 
be taken into account. 

The advantages of this method of cooking are mani- 
fold. They may be epitomized thus : 

I. It makes food more savory and nutritious. 

II. It is sanitary. No dust can reach the article be- 
ing cooked and, the cooking accomplished, the bag can 
be thrown into the stove or kitchen scrap basket with no 
temptation for a lazy maid to tuck away a greasy pan in 
the dish closet for the delectation of " germs " or 
roaches. 

III. It is economical. Not only does it save the time 
and strength of the housewife with no aftermath of 
dirty cooking dishes to be washed, but it prevents the 
shrinkage of meats as caused by ordinary cookery. 
Nothing is lost, because there is no evaporation; careful 
experiments prove that the weight of the cooked food 
tallies almost exactly with the weight of the raw. There 



10 



BAG COOKERY 

$l, some claiming as high as 40 
per cent., owing to' the less time required in Paper-bag 
Cookery. While this may be a generous estimate it is 
certain that Paper-bag Cookery takes on the average, 
one-third less time than other cooking. 

IV. With ordinary care there is no danger of food 
burning, and no deterioration in flavor if left in the bag 
some little time before serving. 

V. It is odorless; a great thing, this, for the flat- 
dweller who has to cook in restricted quarters, taking 
care always that cooking odors do not permeate the 
house. 

VI. Its price is not prohibitive. Indeed, it is most 
reasonable. 

Paper-bag Cookery calls for no big outlay of money, 
no patent stove oven, no complex apparatus or appli- 
ances. All that is necessary is an oven of any sort 
coal, gas, electric, wood or oil a broiler, a paper bag 
specially and sanitarily prepared, grease proof and 
waterproof, a wood cookery dish if the food contains 
liquid or a number of separate ingredients, and some- 
thing to cook therein. Another convenience are the wire 
clips for fastening the mouth and corners of the bag, 
which can be purchased wherever the bags are sold. 

THE KIND OF PAPER BAG TO USE. 

While a sheet of heavy foolscap paper made into a 
bag serves for the cooking of a single chop it is self- 
evident that for larger proportions, larger bags and 
bags from strong, absolutely sanitary paper must be 
used. While there are bags and bags now upon the 
market, not all fulfill these essential conditions. After 
much experimenting, the Continental Paper Bag Co, of 
Rumford, Maine, and New York City, has succeeded in 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 11 

producing the ideal bag which may now be found in 
varying sizes, at all the large house-furnishing stores, 
grocers, butchers, etc., or the bags may be ordered direct 
from headquarters. These bags are put up in bulk in 
bundle lots, or in sealed packages of assorted sizes. 
Each of the sealed packages contains thirty bags of as- 
sorted sizes with the necessary clips and a small book of 
recipes with full directions. Retail price 25 cents a 
package fifty packages to a shipping bundle. 

In order to make paper bag cookery of the greatest 
value to housewives, both as regards cleanliness and 
ease of operation, to say nothing of the many cases 
where the flavor of the food is actually improved, the 
author heartily recommends the use of specially pre- 
pared wood cookery dishes. These dishes are most in- 
expensive, varying in price from about thirty for ten 
cents to six for ten cents, depending upon size. They 
can be purchased wherever the paper bags are sold, 
department stores, house furnishing stores, grocery 
stores, etc., etc., or may be obtained direct from the 
Oval Wood Dish Company, Delta, Ohio. The food is 
placed in the wood cookery dish and the dish is put 
into the bag. The advantage lies in the fact that 
should the bag break, the food and juices are saved 
in the dish and the oven will not be soiled by leakage. 
Then again, the food can be removed from the bag when 
finished with greater ease than when the dish is not 
used. The dishes are so cheap that they can be thrown 
away with the bag after the food is prepared. 



CHAPTER II. 
GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR USING THE BAG. 

I. SELECT a bag that fits the food to be cooked. 
When a liquid is used or a number of ingredients are 
to be cooked together, use a wood cookery dish which 
holds the food stuffs together and permits their ready; 
removal from the bag. 

II. Brush over the outside of the bag with a little 
water to make it pliable. Grease the inside except in 
the case of vegetables or when water is added, using for 
this another little flat brush (kept for this purpose) and 
pure vegetable oil, melted butter or drippings. Apply 
the brush with a rotary motion greasing the bottom first 
and working toward the top ; or lay the bag flat on a 
table, reach inside and grease the lower side of the bag, 
then press the other side against it until both surfaces 
are evenly greased. The up-to-date housewife who is 
adopting the paper-bag culinary cult has also discovered 
that for greasing the bags, a necessary step, there is 
nothing that can take the place of the high grade vege- 
table oils. They are easily applied and absolutely taste- 
less and odorless, a great point, this, when the bags 
themselves have sometimes been condemned as imparting 
a foreign odor to foods cooked in them, when in reality it 
was the fault of the special fat with which they were 
greased. Now place the bag flat on the table, 
seam side up and lift the uppermost side while you in- 
sert the article to be cooked. Press the air out of the 
bag, fold over the corners and make two folds of the 

U 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 13 

mouth of the bag, fastening firmly with three or four 
clips, or even pins. No harm is done if the two lower 
corners of the bag are folded and also fastened with one 
clip each. 

III. Now be sure the oven heat is right. If you are 
using gas for the cooking, light for five minutes before 
the bag goes into the oven. The average oven heat should 
be not less than 200 degrees Fahrenheit, and may be 250 
degrees. When the bag is put into the oven, the heat 
must be at once reduced to 170 degrees. An inex- 
perienced cook lacking an oven thermometer can test the 
right degree of heat by placing a bit of paper in the 
oven and noting the color it assumes. At the end of five 
minutes it should be a light golden brown. 

If the heat is too intense the bag will burst. Now 
carefully lay the bag on the grid shelves or wire broilers 
never on solid shelves, being careful to place the seam 
side of the bag up. 

This is imperative, as otherwise the juices of the 
food being cooked may cause the seam to open, and dis- 
tribute its contents over the oven. Once placed in posi- 
tion, roasts and entrees on the lower shelf, about an inch 
from the oven floor, fish on the middle shelf, and pastry 
on the top where heat is most intense, do not move or 
open the bags until the schedule time of their cooking is 
accomplished. In placing the article to be cooked, take 
care that the bag does not touch the sides of the oven and 
that it is not too close to the flames. When the time limit 
of cooking has expired, take up the bag from 
the shelf by drawing with the wires, not across 
them, which is apt to tear the bag made ten- 
der by charring. Slip on to the lid of a pot 
or flat tin held just beneath the grid and thence to the 
heated platter. To secure the gravy, stick a pinhole in 



14 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

the bottom of the bag and allow it to drain on to the 
platter, or serving dish. Rip open the bag from the top 
and throw the charred fragments away at once. If to be 
served hot, arrange at once on a heated platter or other 
dish, with its appropriate garnish. 

POINTERS FOR PAPER BAG COOKERY. 

I. In the case of a coal-heated oven with solid shelves 
a wire broiler or " grid " should be substituted as the heat 
must be allowed to circulate on all sides of the bag. 

II. The size of the oven makes no difference but it 
must be kept clean. 

III. In the case of a fowl or joint see that there are no 
rough edges or bones protruding that will be likely to 
pierce the bag. 

IV. Do not season the article to be cooked too highly 
as none of the seasonings are dissipated during the cook- 
ing as is usually the case in ordinary boiling or roasting. 

V. For cooking fruit, grease the outside of the bag. 

VI. In removing the bag from the oven, draw with 
the wires, not across them. 

VII. To brown things at the last of the cooking, if; 
necessary, puncture a few holes in the top of the bag. 

VIII. If a bag breaks in the cooking, as it sometimes 
will if the heat is too intense, do not try to remove the 
article being cooked from the bag, but slip the whole 
into a new well-greased bag. The use of two bags is bet- 
ter than one when things require long cooking or for 
meats with much fat or juicy dishes. While it may cost 
a bit more, it will save much anxiety lest the bag burst. 

IX. To avoid havingany chance drippings soil the oven 
floor, slip a thin tin baking sheet or shallow dripper un- 
der the broiler, letting it rest flat on the bottom of the 
oven. Put in a little hot water and this steam will keep 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 15 

the bag moist and do much to discourage its breaking. 
Indeed, in baking any kind of fruit cake, which requires 
slow cooking, quite a little water in the drip-pan under- 
neath is advisable. 

X. In baking pastry and cake, a few tiny holes 
should be made in the upper side of the bag before put- 
ting in the oven. This will brown the surface of the cake 
delicately. 

XI. Do not let the bag touch the sides of the oven 
or the gas flames. 

XII. Wire trivets such as are sold at house-furnishing 
stores for use in cooling bread and cakes will be found 
a great convenience. If a bag is laid on a trivet, it can 
then be easily set in the oven and as easily lifted out 
when done. 

XIII. Never try to take things from the oven with 
the gas lighted. Matches are cheaper than gas, if the 
oven has to be relighted, and burned fingers or wrists 
are more costly than many matches. 

XIV. Use care in opening the oven. A draught from 
an open door or window might cause the gas flame to 
ignite the bag. 

XV. Until taught by experience, follow the time table 
as given in the cookery book. 



CHAPTER III. 
TIME TABLE. 

As a general rule less time is required for Paper-bag 
Cookery than any other way. While this approximate 
time table is at your service, experience will enable you 
to modify the figures to suit your own stove and your 
family's predilections as to having things rare or well 

done. 

FISH. 

lib 15 minutes 

3 Ibs 30 minutes 

6 Ibs 50 minutes 

ROASTS. 

Beef, 3 Ibs 45 minutes 

Add 5 minutes for each additional pound. 

Veal, 5 Ibs 1 hour and a half. 

Add 7 minutes for each additional pound. 

Pork, 3 Ibs 50 minutes 

Add 6 minutes for each additional pound. 

Mutton, leg 8 pounds An hour and a half 

Mutton, shoulder 5 pounds 45 minutes 

Mutton, chops 12 minutes 

Mutton, cutlets 8 minutes 

Lamb, leg 7 Ibs 1% hours. 

Lamb, shoulder 50 minutes 

Lamb, chops 10 minutes 

Sausages 8 minutes 

Sliced Bacon 6 minutes 

POULTRY. 

Turkey (stuffed) 15 Ibs 2% hours 

Turkey (not stuffed) 15 Ibs 2 hours 

Goose (ordinary size) 2 hours 

Goose (green) iy 2 hours 

Duck (old) 1 hour 

16 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 17 

Duck (young) 35 minutes 

Guinea, 6 Ibs 1 hour and 40 minutes 

Chicken (large) 1 hour and a half 

Chicken (young) 45 minutes 

Quail and other small birds 15 minutes 

Stews (meat) medium sized 1% or two hours 

Potatoes (Baked) 35 minutes 

Sweet (ten minutes less than by the other methods of 
cookery). 

TABLE OF MEASUREMENTS. 

4 teaspoonfuls of liquid 1 tablespoonf ul 

4 tablespoonf uls of liquid y 2 gill or % cupful 

1 tablespoonful of liquid % ounce 

1 pint of liquid 1 pound 

2 gills of liquid 1 cupful or % pint 

1 kitchen cupful y 2 pint 

1 quart sifted pastry flour 1 pound 

4 cupfuls sifted pastry flour 1 quart or 1 pound 

2 rounded tablespoonf uls of flour 1 ounce 

1 rounded tablespoonful granulated sugar.. 1 ounce 

2 rounded tablespoonf uls of ground spice. .1 ounce 
1 heaping tablespoonful powdered sugar. . 1 ounce 

3 cupfuls cornmeal 1 pound 

1 cupful butter y 2 pound 

1 pint butter 1 pound 

1 tablespoonful butter 1 ounce 

Butter size of an egg 2 ounces 

10 eggs 1 pound 

1 solid pint chopped meat 1 pound 

2 cupfuls granulated sugar 1 pound 

1 pint brown sugar 7 ounces 

2y 2 cups powdered sugar 1 pound 

1 cupful stemmed raisins 6 ounces 

1 cupful rice % pound 

1 cupful stemmed raisins 6 ounces 

1 cupful cleaned and dried currants 6 ounces 

1 cupful grated bread crumbs 2 ounces 

8 rounded tablespoonfuls of flour 1 cupful 

8 rounded tablespoonfuls of sugar 1 cupful 

8 rounded tablespoonfuls of butter 1 cupful 

1 common tumbler 1 cupful 

3 tablespoonfuls grated chocolate 1 ounce 

4 gills 1 pint 

2 pints 1 quart 

4 quarts 1 gallon 



CHAPTER IV. 
APPETIZERS AND RELISHES. 

APPETIZERS play a very important part now-a-days in 
all up-to-date establishments and even in modest homes 
where they are not only employed as introductory to the 
course dinner, but as a pleasing accessory to the after- 
noon tea service. They are supposed to whet the appe- 
tite for the heavier dishes that follow. In Europe one 
always finds them. They are considered very "smart " 
and as they are but little trouble to prepare in Paper 
bag cookery, when one has learned the trick, there is no 
reason why the hostess who aims to keep abreast of the 
times should not make frequent use of them. At very 
formal affairs, they are placed on the service plates after 
the guests are seated, but usually they are at each place 
when the meal is announced. Canapes (which means 
" toast cushions " or bouchees, small patties or " bites ") 
with their accompanying spread of appetizing fish, 
cheese or potted meats, are newer than the cocktails of 
oyster, clam or grape-fruit that used to lead the feast. 

Bouchee Cases. These are usually made from pas- 
try by covering tiny but deep patty pans with rich pas- 
try, cutting narrow strips to make the rim for the cup. 
Put on a tin in a buttered bag and bake. When cool 
they will slip from the pan. They may be made the day 
before using if preferred. 

Another way of preparing them is to cut good sized 
circles of bread; then with a smaller cutter, scrape out 

18 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 19 

a hollow, spread with butter, put in the bag and bake ten 
minutes until browned. When ready to serve, fill with 
any mixture desired and serve hot or cold as appetizers 
or with the salad course. 

Bonne Bouchee. Make the pastry cases and when 
ready to serve fill with pate-de-foie gras, made soft with 
whipped cream, seasoned with salt, cayenne or paprika. 
Decorate each one with an olive or bit of aspic jelly. 

Bouchees of Caviare, Olives and Mayonnaise.- 
Spread circles or dominoes of bread with a thin layer of 
caviare. In the center place a pitted olive, green or 
black, with its pit removed and the cavity filled with 
minced red peppers. Hold the olive in place with a few 
drops of mayonnaise, red or the usual yellow, and put 
tiny dots of the same about the border. 

Bouchees of Sardines. Pound one or two boned 
sardines in a mortar, together with a small quantity of 
cheese. Season with salt, pepper and chili vinegar, and 
add, if you like, a few chopped oysters. Spread this 
mixture on circles of " bagged " bread about the size of 
a silver dollar, and add a garnish of hard-boiled yoke of 
egg, rubbed through a sieve and a little finely minced 
parsley. 

Bouchees of Sausage or Tongue. Cover circles of 
" bagged " bread with red stars cut from boiled tongue 
or the red imported sausages. Lay on the top of each 
star, log cabin fashion, several tiny lengths of pickled 
gherkins and crown with a sprig of water-cress. 

The Making of Canapes. Bread two days old is 
best for the foundation. Trim free from crusts, then cut 
in uniform oblongs, diamonds, triangles, circles or 
fingers as desired, using for this the cutters that come 



20 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

on purpose. Butter lightly, spread with the prepared 
mixture and slip into the well-greased paper-bag for five 
minutes just long enough to brown the toast delicately 
and heat the savory. 

Anchovy Canapes. Cut white bread in oblong 
strips, spread lightly with butter, and anchovy paste, 
and tuck into the buttered bag. Bake five minutes, then 
serve hot, adding, if liked, to each canape two strips of 
boneless anchovy laid across it diagonally and a squeeze 
of lemon juice. 

Caviare Canapes. Cut bread in circles and spread 
with a mixture of three tablespoonfuls caviare paste, one 
teaspoonful lemon juice, one half teaspoonful paprika, 
two tablespoonfuls of butter, and a half cupful minced] 
cress. Pop in the buttered bag and cook five minutes. 

Hot Cheese Canapes. Take circles or strips of 
Vienna bread, spread lightly with butter, grate a little 
cheese over them, sprinkle on top a little cayenne pepper 
and salt and put in bag. Cook five minutes. 

Cheese and Cracker Canapes. Split Boston crack- 
ers and soak ten minutes in cold water. Lift out 
carefully and place on a well-buttered baking tin. Drop 
on each a generous bit of butter, a sprinkling of grated 
Parmesan or American cheese and a dusting of 
paprika. Put in the bag, seal and bake fifteen minutes 
in a hot oven. 

Cheese Toast Sandwiches. Cut slices of white 
bread rather thicker than for sandwiches. Chop fine 
one cupful of American cheese and two green peppers 
with the seeds removed. Season with salt and pepper 
and work to a paste. Spread one slice of bread with 
butter and its mate with creamed filling. Press firmly 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 21 

together, take off the crusts, and put into the buttered 
bag. Bake five minutes and serve very hot. 

Cracker Crisps. Dip oyster crackers or dinner bis- 
cuits in melted butter, sprinkle with Parmesan cheese, 
and put in a paper bag. Bake ten minutes. 

Deviled Crackers. Mix three tablespoonfuls of 
grated cheese, one-fourth teaspoon of dry mustard, one 
teaspoon of anchovy paste, a dash of cayenne and a pinch 
of butter. Spread over the crackers and put in bag in a 
hot oven to brown. 

Diables a Cheval. Have ready large French 
prunes that have been soaked twenty-four hours in water, 
then cooked and the pits removed. Insert almonds in 
the cavity left by the pit. Toss in olive oil or refined 
cotton seed oil or roll in thin slices of bacon, fastened 
with a tooth pick, put in the bag, seal and cook eight 
minutes. Serve piping hot. 

NUT APPETIZERS. 

Salted Almonds. Shell as many nice large nuts as 
desired. The Jordan nuts are best, but the paper-shelled 
ones will answer. Put into a bowl and cover with boil- 
ing water. Spread a towel over the bowl to retain the 
steam and let them stand five minutes. Pour off the 
water and replace with cold, then rub off the brown 
skins between thumb and forefinger. Shake in a 
colander until dry, then put in a shallow dish adding for 
each cupful of nuts, one tablespoonful melted butter, 
olive or refined cotton seed oil (preferably either of the 
oils, which will give the richer glaze). Stir well to- 
gether. Let stand an hour, then put into the well 
greased paper bag, first sprinkling with dry salt, allow- 



22 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

ing one tablespoonful to each cupful of nuts. Fasten and 
roast ten minutes, shaking the bag occasionally. You can 
do this by the aid of two trivets. 

Deviled Almonds. To devil them, add a suspicion 
of cayenne pepper with the salt. 

Roasted Chestnuts. Make a cross on the shell of 
the nut using a sharp penknife. Put in the oiled 
bag, dredge lightly with salt, and let cook twenty min- 
utes giving an occasional shake. 

Salted Chestnuts. Throw into boiling water as 
many shelled nuts as desired. Blanch and dry, patting 
with a soft towel. Then add olive oil or melted butter to 
the nuts, allowing a teaspoonful to each cup of nuts and 
let them remain in oil half an hour. Dredge with salt, a 
heaping teaspoonful to each cup, then put in oiled 
bag and let them brown in the oven from 10 to 15 min- 
utes, shaking the bag frequently to keep them from 
scorching and make them an even brown. These should 
be crisp and delicate. To devil them, add a suspicion of 
cayenne with the salt. Serve at dinner after the 
cheese. 

Deviled Chestnuts. Shell and blanch a quart of 
chestnuts. Dry thoroughly, then brown in paper bag in 
hot olive oil or butter. Have ready a mixture composed 
of two tablespoonfuls of chopped mixed pickle, one 
tablespoonful Worcestershire sauce, one quarter tea- 
spoonful salt and a dash of cayenne. Turn this over the 
hot nuts, and serve at once. 



CHAPTER V. 
SOUP ACCESSORIES. 

Bread Sticks. IN preparing these, any bread dough 
may be used, though that with shortening is preferred. 
After it is kneaded enough to be elastic, cut into pieces 
half the size of an egg, then roll on the molding board 
into a stick the size of a pencil and about a foot long. 
Lay these strips in the well-greased paper bag, let 
them rise a little before putting in the oven, then fasten 
the bag and bake with a moderate heat, so they will dry 
without much browning. 

Croutons Toasted. Slice bread that is stale but not 
too dry, into pieces about half an inch thick, cut these 
slices in uniform cubes and put in a well-greased bag. 
Shake occasionally and let toast for ten minutes. 

Crisped Crackers. Split butter crackers and spread 
with butter. Put into the paper bag buttered side up 
and bake ten minutes. These are delicious with vege- 
table soups and in fish chowder and oyster stew. 

Egg Balls. Drop the yolk of four eggs into a cup 
and set in a pan of water over the fire. When the 
yolks are cooked hard and mealy, pound to a paste and 
season with an even teaspoonful of salt, a pinch of cay- 
enne or a more liberal sprinkling of paprika. Mould in- 
to balls the size of grapes, by mixing the yolk of a raw 
egg with the cooked paste, rolling lightly in the white of 



24 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

an egg, then in flour. Tuck into a small buttered bag, 
fasten, and set in oven for five minutes to become firm. 

Forcemeat Balls or Quenelles. Chop very fine 
any cold meat you have on hand, and season with salt, 
pepper, chopped parsley and a little onion juice. For 
one cupful of the prepared meat, beat one egg until 
light, stir in with hashed meat and add just enough flour 
to make cohesive. Roll in the hands to the size of hick- 
ory nuts, put in paper bag and cook ten minutes. 



CHAPTER VI. 
SHELL FISH. 

FISH and the paper bag method of cooking, go hand 
and glove. The thing that every housewife hates most, 
particularly in a small apartment, or in the Winter when 
it is difficult to get the house thoroughly aired, is the 
pervasive odor that announces to every one in the house 
or block just what you are going to have for dinner. 
Bagged, the odor is so minimized as to be entirely inof- 
fensive. Ten minutes airing after the bag is opened will 
be quite sufficient to dissipate every particle of odor. 
Furthermore, the fish itself is much more delicate and 
digestible with all the flavor of fish and seasoning held 
in and united in a harmonious whole. Of course, this 
presupposes a fresh fish to start with, or one just out of 
cold storage, before it has had a chance to thaw and de- 
velope ptomaines. In buying fish, look at the eyes and 
flesh. Fish should be firm to the touch. If pressed by the 
finger the flesh should rise instantly. There should be 
no impression left. If fish is fresh the eyes are bright 
and the gills red and the scales not easily rubbed off. 
Never lay fish directly on artificial ice, say the fishermen, 
as the amonnia used in the freezing affects them injuri- 
ously. Shell fish are not so apt to spoil as the other fish. 

The wood cookery dishes will be found of great value 
in cooking all kinds of fish in paper bags. In many 
cases the flavor of the fish is improved and the fish can 

25 



26 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

always be taken from the bag with ease and served 
whole if desired. 

Clam Pies. Line little tins or moulds with paste and 
put in a layer of raw clams with a seasoning of butter 
and pepper. Dredge with flour, add a spoonful or two 
of clam juice, cover with the paste, cut a hole in the top, 
brush with beaten egg, slip into the bag, fasten and bake 
twenty minutes. 

Roast Clams. Scrub the shells clean and slip in the 
bag. As soon as the shells open, remove carefully and 
pour off the extra liquor in as may small cups as you 
have persons to serve. Put a cup of the juice to which a 
bit of butter and dusting of pepper has been added, in 
the center of a soup dish, and arrange the clams around 
it. With an oyster fork, the clams may then be removed 
from the shell, dipped into the liquor and eaten. Serve 
very hot with quarters of lemon. 

Crabs, Soft and Hard. While soft shell crabs are 
too expensive for the purse of moderate depth, the hard 
shell crustacean is always in order and greatly to be de- 
sired. Crabs, like all other shell fish, are best when 
fresh from their native waters, and the individual who 
can do his own crabbing and then eat the fruits of his 
labor with the flavor of the sea still with them, has noth- 
ing more to be desired from a gastronomic standpoint. 
In most markets crabs may be found both alive and 
boiled. If alive, keep them in cold water until ready 
to cook. If already boiled, use them as soon as possible 
as they do not keep well for more than twenty-four 
hours. When ready to cook live crabs, take up on a 
skimmer, handling gingerly so as to avoid a pinch, and 
drop into a large kettle of boiling salted water. Cook 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 27 

gently fifteen minutes, or until a bright red, skim out, 
and cool, twist off the claws, remove the upper shell from 
the under, scrape the spongy portions from the sides, re- 
move the green portion and wash free from sand. Crack 
the large claws and remove the meat. If you are to 
serve the crab meat in the shells, wash and dry as many 
of the upper ones as desired. These preliminaries at- 
tended to, the crabs are ready to use, in any one of a 
dozen different ways. 

Creamed Crabs. Remove the meat from a half 
dozen hard-shelled crabs. Cook two tablespoonfuls of 
butter and a tablespoonful of finely chopped onion until 
yellow, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and pour in 
gradually a cup of cream. As soon as blended and 
smooth, add the crab meat, salt and paprika to season, 
a tiny grating of nutmeg and a tablespoonful of sherry 
wine. Spread on slices of toast, grate a little cheese on 
top, put into a bag, seal, set in the oven a moment to 
beat through, then serve. 

Crabs Deviled a la William Penn. Boil hard- 
shelled crabs, then remove the under part without break- 
ing the upper shell. Take out the crab meat, add about 
half the quantity of bread crumbs and some chopped 
hard boiled eggs, with salt, cayenne and lemon juice to 
season. Form into a paste with a little melted butter 
and fill the shells. Sift buttered crumbs over the top, 
slip in the bag and cook ten minutes in a hot oven. 

Crab Meat au Gratin. Mix the meat from six 
crabs with a third the amount finely chopped, sweet, 
green peppers. Add the yolks of two eggs beaten with 
a half cup cream and a little sherry, and toss in a sauce- 
pan until hot and creamy. Put the mixture into the 



28 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOJKERY 

cleaned crab shells or the little brown ramequins, 
sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and fine crumbs; put in 
bag and crisp in a hot oven. 

Crab Flakes au Gratin. Add to one pint crab flakes, 
one-half cupful cream sauce, two tablespoon fuls melted 
butter and a quarter teaspoonful paprika. Mix well to- 
gether, place in a small wood cookery dish or ramequins, 
sprinkle the top with toast crumbs and a light sprinkling 
of Roman cheese. Put into bags, bake and serve. If 
any be left over, it makes a delicious salad served on 
lettuce with mayonnaise. 

Lobster Chops. Put into a saucepan a heaping 
tablespoonful of butter and two very heaping ones of 
flour. As soon as melted and frothed, add one cupful of 
hot milk or cream, and stir until the mixture is smooth 
and thick. Season with salt and paprika, take from the 
fire, add two cups of the lobster, cut fine, mix well and 
turn on to a platter to get as cold as possible. When 
cold and firm, form into balls, then flatten into chops, 
roll in egg, then in cracker crumbs and set away on the 
ice until ready to cook. Put in buttered paper bag and 
cook ten minutes. When ready to serve, tuck one of the 
little claws in the small end to simulate a chop bone and 
garnish with lemon and parsley. For Sunday night sup- 
per these chops may be cooked early in the day, then 
simply re-bagged and heated in the oven for the meal. 

Coquilles of Lobster. Cook two tablespoonfuls of 
finely chopped onion in a tablespoonful butter for fifteen 
minutes. Have ready a cream sauce made by melting to- 
gether over the fire a tablespoonful each of butter and 
flour, then thinning with a cupful of white stock that has 
been cooked with a small bouquet of sweet herbs. Salt 
and pepper to taste, and if you like add half a cupful 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 29 

chopped mushrooms and their liquor. Add to the lightly 
browned onions two cupfuls finely cut lobster meat, a 
tablespoonful minced parsley, one cupful of the made 
sauce and salt and paprika. Cook together ten minutes, 
then put the mixture into the shells, pour a little of the 
sauce over each, sprinkle with buttered bread crumbs, 
bag, and bake about ten minutes or until they are 
browned. 

Lobster in Shells. Cut the meat from two cans of 
lobster into small pieces. Sprinkle a few bread crumbs 
and a little salt and pepper over it. Then put in shells. 
On each shell put a good sized lump of butter, two tea- 
spoonfuls of wine, some more salt and pepper and some 
more bread crumbs. Put prepared shells in a paper bag, 
put in a hot oven and cook ten minutes. 

Mussels au Gratin. Remove and clean the mussels, 
straining all the liquor thoroughly. Then make this 
sauce : Fry two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions in 
butter for a few minutes, but do not let them brown ; 
add about a teaspoonful of flour, and, while the onions 
are blending, add the liquor of the mussels, stirring it in 
slowly. Cook this mixture for a few minutes; then add 
a tablespoonful of vinegar, the same quantity of chopped 
parsley and pepper and salt to taste. Butter a shallow 
earthen or wooden baking dish; in the bottom spread a 
layer of the sauce, lay the mussels on top of it and cover 
them with the balance of the sauce. Over all this spread 
a thin coating of breadcrumbs; butter and bake in bag 
until they have browned. Serve in the same dish in 
which they were baked. 

Boxed Oysters (Virginia Style). Take crusty 
rolls cut off the top and scoop out the hearts leaving them 



30 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY, 

each like a box. Fill the space with oysters, seasoning 
with sault, pepper and butter and sprinkling over them 
some of the crumb of the roll that you have removed. Put 
bits of butter on top, then replace the cover. Set the rolls 
in the buttered bag and pour the strained oyster liquor 
over them. Put into a hot oven and bake for fifteen min- 
utes. Serve hot. Lemon juice or a little mace is some- 
times used for seasoning the oysters. 

Spindled Oysters and Bacon. For two dozen 
large oysters have two dozen thin slices bacon, and a half 
dozen slices crisp toast. Have ready a half dozen slen- 
der steel skewers. Fill these skewers with alternate 
slices of bacon and oysters, running the skewer cross- 
wise through the eye of the oyster and threading the 
bacon by one corner, so that each slice blankets an oys- 
ter. Do not crowd. Lay the skewers in a buttered bag, 
and cook in a quick oven ten minutes. Lay each spindle 
with its contents undisturbed on a slice of toast, pour 
the drip from the bag over them and serve at once. 



CHAPTER VII. 
FISH. 

Filet of Bass. WASH and wipe the filets dry 
with a clean towel, trimming away the fins with a pair of 
large scissors close to the filet. Dust with salt and lay 
in a covered dish with a minced onion, the juice of half 
a lemon and a bit of finely cut parsley and thyme. Let 
them stand half an hour. Twenty minutes before serv- 
ing wipe dry again, dust lightly with flour, dip in well- 
beaten egg, then roll in fine bread crumbs. When all are 
prepared, put in greased bag and cook twenty minutes 
until a delicate brown. Arrange on a warm dish and 
serve with parsley and lemon or sauce tartare. Filets of 
sole may be cooked in the same way. 

Baked Blue Fish. Clean thoroughly, cut off head 
and tail and fill with a soft bread stuffing. Tie up se- 
curely, rub over the outside of the fish with sweet vege- 
table oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, add a squeeze of 
lemon juice and slip into the greased bag. Seal and 
cook from twenty to forty minutes according to weight. 
Serve with sliced lemon rolled in fine cut parsley. 

A Breakfast Dish of Bloaters. Few people know 
how very nice smoked and dried fish can be when cooked 
in a paper bag and seasoned in the French fashion. Cut 
off the head and tail of the fish, loosen the skin at the 
neck with a knife and holding it firmly between the 
knife and finger, pull it off. Split the fish with a sharp 

31 



32 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

knife, remove the backbone and soak in cold water over 
night, or if you forget to do that, for twenty minutes in 
water nearly at the boiling point. Arrange the filets in a 
wooden baking dish, cover with milk, dot with bits of but- 
ter, put in bag and bake in a hot oven for fifteen minutes. 
Garnish with a little finely chopped parsley or sprigs of 
water cress and serve with paper-bag baked potatoes. 
On a cool morning there are few more appetizing break- 
fast dishes, while its cheapness puts it within the reach 
of the most impecunious. For a change the filets may be 
baked in buttered paper cases or cooked au gratin still in 
paper bags. 

Cat Fish. For the small sized cat fish clean, wash, 
dry well, salt and pepper inside and out, then grease well 
with butter or vegetable oil and roll in fine, sifted bread 
crumbs or corn meal. Lay in a well greased bag on thin 
sliced bacon, put a few more slices of bacon on top. Seal 
and cook half an hour. 

Codfish Cones. " Pick up " enough salt codfish to 
make two cupfuls of the shreds. Cover with cold water 
and let stand for two hours, then drain, make a cream 
sauce, using two level tablespoonfuls each butter and 
flour, and one cupful of hot milk. Mash and season 
enough hot boiled potatoes to measure two cupfuls, add 
sauce and fish and beat well with a fork. Shape in small 
cones, brush with melted butter, dredge with fine bread 
crumbs and put in a paper bag. Cook ten minutes. If 
desired some thin slices of bacon can be cooked at the 
same time in a separate bag and be used as a garnish for 
the cones. 

Codfish a la Creme. Cook the fish first in boiling 
salted water which has been very slightly acidulated 
with vinegar. Let it cook until the flesh separates from 



STANDARD PAPER; BAG COOKERY 55 

the bones. After draining thoroughly and removing the 
skin and bones, break the flesh into large flakes. Pour a 
highly seasoned white sauce over it. It may now be cook- 
ed in a wooden baking dish in the bag, or it may be pre- 
pared as follows: Press it into the form of an oblong 
mould, using only just enough sauce to hold the flakes to- 
gether. Not as much sauce is needed as when the fish is 
browned in a baking dish. Brush the top liberally with 
melted butter, sprinkle with rolled cracker crumbs. Put 
the mold in a paper bag in the oven, and let the fish ac- 
quire a nutty, crisp crust. Send to the table garnished 
with lemon and parsley or thin slices of tomato and a fevr 
sprays of water cress. 

Paper Bagged Eels. Eels may be cooked in a pa- 
per bag without growing as hard as they are apt to do as 
ordinarily treated. Allow one-half pound of eels (after 
they are dressed) to a person. ^Wash them thoroughly, 
removing all blood from slit in eels. Cut in two-inch 
pieces, put in a dish and sprinkle a teaspoonful of salt 
to every pound over them. Now pour over them boiling 
water, enough to cover well, and let stand until water is 
cold. Pour water off and leave eels where they will drain 
until nearly dry. Take sufficient Indian meal to roll 
them in, add a little pepper to it and roll each piece un- 
til well covered. Place in a well-greased bag and cook 
about twenty minutes, when they will be a rich brown, 
thoroughly cooked and deliciously juicy. 

Flounder a la Meuniere. Chop a small shallot 
and mix with a teaspoonful of anchovy paste, a squeeze of 
lemon juice, an ounce of butter, a little chopped 
parsley, a dash of cayenne, salt and pepper 
to taste. Put the fish with the seasoning inside 
of a well buttered bag, after dredging the 



34. STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

fish with flour. Pour a tablespoonful of melted 
butter over the fish, seal up and cook. A two-pound fish, 
whole, requires thirty minutes. The same weight of filets 
cook in eight minutes. 

Filets of Flounder. Remove the filets from a medi- 
um sized flounder and cut each filet in two. Season with 
salt and pepper and a few drops of lemon juice and fold 
each filet in two or roll up skin side inwards. Put a 
small piece of butter, or a teaspoonful of vegetable oil 
on top of each and place carefully in the well-greased 
bag. Seal the mouth of the bag, and cook about ten 
minutes on the wire grid in a hot oven. 

Remove from the bag, lift carefully on to a hot platter, 
garnish with water cress or parslied lemon slices and 
serve. 

Finnan Haddie. Pick out a fish that is thick 
through the centre, weighing about two pounds. Soak in 
cold water, after washing well, for an hour. Brush all 
over with melted butter, dredge with flour, put in a well- 
buttered bag, skin side down, dot with butter and pour 
over it a cup of hot milk. Seal securely and bake in a very 
hot oven twenty minutes. The fish may be served whole, 
or flaked free from bones and skin and served with 
cream sauce. 

Finnan Haddie. Prepare in the regular way, lay 
in wood cookery dish, skin side down, season with bits 
of butter, add a small cupful of warm milk, put in bag 
and seal. Bake twenty-five minutes and serve from 
the dish with cream sauce. This eliminates the wash- 
ing of dishes with the strong fishy odor. 

Fish Cakes. Use for this two cupfuls cold fish freed 
from skin and bones and chopped fine, and the same 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 35 

amount of cooked, seasoned and mashed potatoes. Mix 
well, season with salt and pepper, add two tablespoon- 
fuls vegetable oil or melted butter and two tablespoon- 
fuls of milk. Whip the mixture until as "light as feath- 
ers." Shape into small, flat cakes of even size. Beat 
up an egg on a plate, then egg the cakes and roll deftly 
in the finest of sifted bread crumbs and again shape. Put 
in well greased bag, seal and put in a hot oven. Cook 
about twenty minutes. 

New England Fish Pie. Have a pound of cod 
steak boned and cut in pieces. Roll each piece in slightly 
salted flour, and season with paprika or white pepper. 
Lay in the well-greased bag and put on top of the fish a 
layer of oysters with their juice and a squeeze of lemon 
juice. Sprinkle with a layer of finely rolled and buttered 
cracker crumbs, dot with a few bits of butter, seal the 
bag and bake slowly fifteen minutes. Have ready some 
hot mashed potato well sesasoned with cream and butter. 
Take the grid and bag from the oven, tear off the top 
of the bag, spread the potato over the fish like a crust, 
brush over with a little milk mixed with a portion of an 
egg yolk and set back in oven for five minutes to brown 
and glaze, turning the grid with the bag twice during the 
cooking. Cut open the bag, put the fish balls on a hot 
platter, garnish and serve plain with a tomato sauce. 

Fish Souffle. One pint of boiled halibut? or other 
delicate fish, freed from bones and skin and mashed to a 
pulp. Season with one small teaspoonful of salt, a dash 
of pepper, and one teaspoonful of onion juice. Melt a 
large tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan, and cook in 
it for three minutes a tablespoonful of flour. Add slowly 
a cupful of milk and the seasoned fish pulp. Beat two 
eggs thoroughly and add the fish to them. Pour all into 



36 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

bag, seal and bake twenty minutes in a moderate oven, 
half an hour. 

Planked Fish Bag-Cooked. Planked fish responds 
beautifully to the paper-bag treatment, and there is no 
better way of developing the distinctive flavor of any of 
the delicate white-meated fish. The plank however 
should not be as thick as that usually required. It must 
be of hard-wood, hickory, cherry, live oak, cedar or ash 
well seasoned and sawed about a half inch in thickness, 
rounded and tapered at one end like an ironing board. 
This to accommodate the tail of the fish. If cooking 
small fish use the oval wood cooking dishes made of 
maple wood. 

Make it very hot in the oven or under the gas flame, 
then grease well with vegetable oil, olive or the refined 
cotton seed, and lay on it the fish cleaned, split down the 
back, seasoned, oiled all over with the sweetest of vege- 
table oils or butter and spread out as flat as possible with 
the skin side next to the hot board. Slip into the greased 
bag and fasten tightly. If you use the gas oven for 
planking your fish, as most of us do, turn on both burn- 
ers until the oven is very hot. Then set in the fish with 
a trivet under the bag the same as if you were cooking 
without the plank. 

Bake from thirty to forty-five minutes, then serve pip- 
ing hot on the plank which has been taken out of the 
bag, set on a big japanned tray and garnished with hot 
mashed potato pressed through a tube in rose fashion at 
regular intervals, alternating with mounds of peas or 
carrot dice, sprigs of watercress or parsley and thin 
slices of lemon rolled in fine minced parsley. Accompany 
with sauce tartare or parsley butter. 

Halibut a la Poulette. Take two pounds of hali- 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 37 

but, arrange in filets, freeing from skin and bone; then 
cut into narrow strips. Season with salt, pepper and 
lemon juice; cut two onions in slices and lay on the 
filets, then set away for half an hour.> At the end of this 
time have ready one-third cup melted butter or refined 
vegetable oil. Dip the filets in this, roll, skewer into 
shape and dredge with flour. Arrange in a well-buttered 
bag, seal and bake twenty minutes in a moderate oven. 
Serve with white sauce and two hard boiled eggs, sliced 
for a garnish. 

Herring au Gratin. Soak and filet the herring. 
Butter a bag and strew the bottom with the bread 
crumbs well buttered, a layer of grated cheese and a 
little minced chives or parsley. Sprinkle with pepper 
and lay in the filets of herring, plain or alternately with 
sliced tomato. Cover with more crumbs, parsley, cheese 
and butter, close the bag, and bake fifteen minutes until 
a good brown. 

Herrings With Herbs. Take four dried herrings, 
bone them, fill the cavities with a little (about half a 
teaspoonful to each fish) finely minced shallot or chives, 
and parsley. Add a few fresh breadcrumbs and tiny 
bits of butter. If liked, a tiny grate of nutmeg may be 
added as well as a good dust of pepper. Put into a 
well greased bag and bake in the oven for ten minutes. 
Dish up and serve as hot as possible. Other dried fish 
are excellent prepared in the same way. 

Kedgeree. Mix one cup of shredded fish with one 
cupful of boiled rice, tender and well drained. Put into a 
well-buttered wooden baking dish, while you prepare the 
sauce. Put into a saucepan one tablespoonful each of 
butter and flour and as soon as melted and " bubbly/' 
add one cup of hot milk. Stir until smooth and thick, 



38 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

season with salt and pepper, take from the fire, add the 
yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, that have been rubbed 
through a sieve, pour over the rice and fish. Put the dish 
in a well buttered bag and set in the oven until thoroughly 
hot and delicately browned. 

Kippered Mackerel With Fine Herbs. Cut salt 
mackerel into filets, lay them in a deep earthen dish and 
cover with boiling water. Leave in water half a min- 
ute. Take out, wipe dry, dust with coarse black pepper 
and put on top of each filet half a teaspoonful of minced 
parsley and chives or onion and a bit of butter the size 
of a small walnut. Grease a bag well, put in the filets; 
seal and cook for twenty minutes in a hot oven. Serve 
hot, with brown bread and butter. 

Salmon Loaf. Mince one can of salmon, removing 
all bits of bone. Add to it a cupful fine, stale bread 
crumbs, two beaten eggs, a half cupful milk and salt, 
pepper, parsley and lemon juice to season. Put in a 
wooden mould in a buttered bag and bake or steam for 
half an hour. Turn out and serve hot with a white or 
Hollandaise sauce. 

Scalloped Salmon. Put a layer of soft grated 
bread crumbs in the bottom of a wooden baking dish that 
has been well buttered. Sprinkle the bread crumbs with 
salt, pepper and bits of butter. Cover with a layer of 
flaked salmon, seasoning with salt and pepper and 
pouring in some of the oil and liquor from the can. 
Over this spread another layer of the seasoned crumbs, 
then more salmon and so on until the dish is filled. Let 
the last layer be of buttered crumbs moistening slightly 
with a little milk. Spread a little soft butter over the 
surface and bake in a buttered bag for half an hour in 
a hot oven to a rich brown. 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 39 

Salmon Souffle. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter 
in a saucepan and melt without browning. Add one 
tablespoonful of flour, stir until blended, then pour in 
one cup of warm milk. When thickened and smooth, 
add the yolk of one egg, one cup of salmon flaked, a 
tablespoonful of cream and a tiny bit of essence of 
anchovy and pepper to season. Mix carefully and well, 
fold in the white of one egg beaten until stiff and dry; 
then fill ramekins or wooden dish three-quarters full. 
Put in a bag and brown in a quick oven. Serve very 
hot. Chopped parsley may be added if desired. 

Baked Shad. In dressing the fish, cut as small an 
opening as possible. Wash well, dry and fill with a 
dressing made in this way. Pour over one cupful dry 
bread crumbs enough cold water or milk to moisten. Add 
a teaspoonful melted butter, and a teaspoonful minced 
parsley. Mix thoroughly and fill the fish, sewing or 
skewering the opening together. Use a wood cookery 
dish and put into a buttered bag two or three 
slices of wafer-thin salt pork and having salted 
and peppered the outside of the fish lay care- 
fully on top the sliced pork. Lay as many more thin 
slices on top of the fish, or wipe over with olive oil. 
Seal, set in the oven and bake three-quarters of an hour 
in a moderate oven. Serve with sauce tartare or a good 
brown sauce enriched with a small glass of Madeira. 

Shad Roe. As soon as the fish comes from the water 
or market, plunge the roe into boiling salted water to 
which a tablespoonful of lemon juice or vinegar has 
been added. Cook gently about ten minutes, lift out 
with a skimmer and slip into a bowl of ice water to 
become firm. When ready to cook, split lengthwise if 
plump and full, brush over with olive oil, melted butter 



40 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

or refined cotton seed oil, and tuck at once into the well 
greased bag. Some cooks prefer to dust the roe with 
fine bread crumbs, lay into beaten egg, then dust once 
more with sifted crumbs before "bagging". Serve 
simply with lemon and cress, with sauce tartare or may- 
onnaise, or with a sauce prepared as follows: Put into 
a saucepan two tablespoonfuls butter or olive oil, one 
tablespoonful lemon juice, and chopped parsley, and a 
teaspoonful Worcestershire sauce. Heat to the boiling 
point and pour over the roe. 

Smelts. Smelts skewered in rings, using a wooden 
toothpick to hold heads and tails together, dipped in 
milk, well floured and fried in deep fat, make an attrac- 
tive fish course. The use of a wood cookery dish here is 
strongly recommended. The skewer can be removed be- 
fore serving, as the fish will usually keep its shape. 
Garnish the plate on which the fish are served with cress 
and slices of lemon rolled in finely minced parsley. If 
the smelts are to furnish the main part of the meal, pile 
them in the center of a hot platter and surround with a 
border of mashed potato, or mound the potato and circle 
with the fish for a border. 

Bagged Weak Fish. Well grease a bag, with but- 
ter or vegetable oil. Prepare a weak fish as for frying by 
seasoning with salt, pepper and dredging well with 
flour. Rub melted butter on both sides, place it in the 
bag, skin side down, lightly dredge the upper side again 
with flour and dot with butter. Peel and cut an onion in 
half, put in the bag but not on the fish. Close the bag, 
seal and cook on the wire rack or broiler in a hot oven 
for twenty-five minutes, 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 41 

White Fish Planked. Remove the head and tail 
and bone of the fish. Wash carefully and place in 
wooden cookery dish, skin side down. Season with 
salt, pepper, bits of butter and chopped onion. Roll a 
half dozen oysters in cracker crumbs, place on top of 
fish, and put the dish in the bag. Bake forty minutes. 
Set the wooden dish on a hot platter and serve. The 
skin of the fish and remnants can be left in the dish 
which can then be thrown away. Halibut and mackerel 
are especially fine when prepared in these wood cookery 
dishes as it holds them intact in process of cooking and 
serving. 



CHAPTER VIII. 
FISH SAUCE. 

Anchovy Sauce. POUND three anchovies smooth 
with three spoonfuls of butter, add two teaspoonfuls of 
vinegar and a quarter of a cupful of water. Bring to 
the boil and thicken with a tablespoonful of flour rubbed 
smooth in a little cold water. Strain through a sieve 
and serve hot. 

Quick Bearnaise Sauce. Beat the yolks of four 
eggs with four tablespoonfuls of oil and four of water. 
Add a cupful of boiling water and cook slowly until 
thick and smooth. Take from the fire and add minced 
onion, capers, olives, pickles and parsley and a little 
tarragon vinegar. 

Bearnaise Sauce. This calls for four small, chopped 
shallots, one branch of chopped tarragon, two table- 
spoonfuls of wine vinegar, two raw egg yolks, two and 
a half ounces of hot melted butter, half a teaspoonful of 
chopped parsley and a teaspoonful of pepper. Put the 
shallots, vinegar, tarragon and pepper in a saucepan 
and let it stand on a slow fire until its contents are re- 
duced to one-half their original quantity. Squeeze the 
mixture through a cloth into another saucepan. Add the 
egg yolks and beat the mixture four minutes without 
allowing it to boil. Then add the melted butter very 
gradually, still keeping the pan where there is no danger 
of boiling. Season with a saltspoonful of salt and a half 

49 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 43 

Saltspoonful of cayenne pepper. It is well to make 
the last an extremely scanty portion, as more may be 
added if desired, but none can be removed. Stir all 
again quite thoroughly for a minute. Add the parsley 
and serve. 

Brown Sauce. Brown two tablespoonfuls of flour 
in butter. Add two cupfuls of milk or cream and cook 
until thick, stirring constantly. 

Curry Sauce. Fry a tablespoonful of chopped 
onion in butter and add a tablespoonful of flour, mixed 
with a teaspoonful of curry powder. Mix thoroughly, 
add one cupful of cold water, and cook until thick, stir- 
ring constantly. Take from the fire, season with salt 
and onion juice and serve hot. 

Egg Sauce. Mix a half cup of butter, a tablespoon- 
ful of flour, and a cupful of boiling water and set the 
sauce pan on the stove. Stir until thickened, seasoning 
with salt and pepper. Add two hard boiled eggs, chop- 
ped fine, and serve. 

Sauce Hollandaise. This is really a warm mayon- 
naise, using butter instead of vegetable oil. It is the best 
sauce for serving with salmon or other boiled fish if you 
desire it hot. It requires a quarter pound butter, half a 
lemon, the yolks of two eggs, a little salt and a half tea- 
spoonful white pepper. The secret of its successful 
making is to preserve an even temperature. The sauce 
should not approach the boiling point, as the eggs would 
cook and the sauce curdle. Put the eggs in a small 
saucepan and add the butter, gradually stirring con- 
stantly with a wooden spoon. It will soon thicken like 
a mayonnaise. When the butter is all in, add salt and 
pepper and lastly the lemon juice, stirring until well 



44 STANDARD PAPER; BAG COOKERY 

mixed. If the sauce becomes thick, add a little stock or 
hot water. Surround the fish with parsley and slices of 
lemon and serve the sauce in a bowl. A few sliced cu- 
cumbers should be served with fish. 

Egg Sauce Made From the Hollandaise. Egg 
sauce may be made from the Hollandaise by sprinkling 
with two finely chopped hard boiled eggs and a tea- 
spoonful of parsley;. 

Lobster Sauce. Phis is delicious with any white 
fleshed fish. Its foundation is Hollandaise sauce, which 
is also the foundation of most of the fish sauces. To 
make it, stir together one tablespoonful of butter, a few 
drops of onion juice, a bit of bay leaf (not too much), 
pepper to season, and the juice of a half lemon. Add a 
half cup of white stock or hot water and set the bowl 
containing the mixture in a pan of hot water and stir 
until the butter melts. As soon as very hot, take from 
the fire and stir a little of the mixture in the well-beaten 
yolks of one and one-half eggs, then add the rest of the 
sauce and return to the fire. Stir constantly for five 
minutes or until thickened. Add a teaspoonful of butter, 
half the pounded coral of a lobster and a tablespoonful 
of chopped lobster meat. 

Maitre d'Hotel Butter. This is perhaps the sim- 
plest and best sauce to serve on fried or broiled fish. 
To make it, beat a heaping tablespoonful of butter to a 
cream in a warm bowl; add the juice of a lemon, a half 
teaspoonful of salt and two teaspoonfuls of minced pars- 
ley. A grating of nutmeg or bit of chives is sometimes 
added. If placed on the ice this can be kept on hand a 
week or more. It is also excellent spread over a juicy 
steak. 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 45 

Sauce for Broiled Shad a la Murray. Fry the 
milts, and while hot mash with butter, a tablespoonful 
minced parsley and a teaspoonful of lemon juice. Sea- 
son lightly with salt and pepper and spread over the 
fish when removed from the bag. Set in the oven one 
moment, then serve. 

Parsley Butter. To make this delectable fish 
sauce, mix one ounce fresh butter with a teaspoonful 
each chopped parsley and lemon juice, half teaspoonful 
chopped mixed tarragon and cress or chervil and salt 
and pepper to season. Spread on a plate, set on the 
ice until cold then shape into pats. This is nice with 
any fish. 

Sauce Tartare. This is one of the standbys that no 
housekeeper liable to the unexpected appearance of 
guests should be without. It can be used in an emer- 
gency for so many different things. It is delicious with 
fish, cold or hot, broiled or deviled chicken, tongue, beef, 
cauliflower or potato salad. It is easy to make, the only 
essentials being good materials, everything cold, and the 
oil added very slowly at first. After that it may be 
poured in in larger quantities and more frequently. Mix 
in a small bowl one half teaspoonful dry mustard, the 
same amount each powdered sugar and salt, and a quar- 
ter teaspoonful cayenne. Add the yolks of two fresh 
eggs, and stir. Measure out a cupful of olive oil and 
add a few drops at a time, stirring until it thickens. If 
it begins to thicken too much to stir easily, thin with a 
little lemon juice, adding oil and lemon alternately until 
you have used all the oil and two tablespoonfuls of 
lemon juice. Lastly beat in two tablespoonfuls of tar- 
ragon or other vinegar. This gives the regular mayon- 
naise, which should be smooth and thick. Now to make 



46 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

it into sauce tartare, add one teaspoonful finely chopped 
onion or onion juice, a tablespoonful of chopped pickle, 
capers, olives and parsley, in any proportion desired. 
You may use simply the sour cucumber pickle or part 
pickle and olives, capers, etc. This may be kept for a 
number of days in cold weather by keeping in glass and 
in a cool place. 



CHAPTER IX. 
POULTRY AND GAME. 

Capon. CAPON is the best of all poultry, having 
been specially treated and fattened for the table. They 
can be distinguished in the market by the head, tail and 
wing feathers being left intact. They are always high 
in price and considered great luxuries. They are cooked 
the same as chicken. If to be stuffed, choose a delicate 
dressing like oysters or chestnuts. Cut the neck off short 
and remove the oil bag from the root of the tail. Singe 
carefully, pluck out every lingering pin feather, wash 
quickly with a rough, clean cloth and warm not hot 
water ; dash cold water over it, let drain, then wipe care- 
fully with a soft, damp cloth inside and out. Salt lightly 
inside and dust with pepper, stuff with whatever dress- 
ing you elect to have, truss, fasten thin slices of bacon or 
salt pork over the breast and thighs, grease the entire 
body liberally with soft butter or vegetable oils, put into 
a loose fitting well-greased bag, breast down, seal, lay 
on a trivet, set on broiler in hot oven, let cook till bag 
corners turn very brown, then slack heat one-half, or 
even a little more if the heat is fierce, and cook from an 
hour and a half to an hour and three-quarters. The 
capon should be a golden brown all over, except on the 
back where it touches the bag and underneath the bacon 
slices. But it will be as well done everywhere as in the 
brown part. Cook the liver, gizzard and neck in a small 
separate bag, wrapping each in a slice of bacon and sea- 

47 



48 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

soning them with salt and pepper. Add a very little 
water, seal and put on to cook less than an hour before 
dinner time. The slow heat will make them very tender. 
Cooked with capon, they would be overdone. Serve 
with sweet potatoes Southern style, or baked apples 
slightly sweetened. 

Chicken with Parsnips. Wash, parboil and scrape 
a quart of tender parsnips. Split a Spring chicken down 
the back and lay in a buttered bag, skin side up. Ar- 
range the sliced parsnips around the chicken, sprinkle 
with salt and pepper, dot with bits of butter until a half 
cup has been used, and top with two or three thin 
slices of fat, salt pork. Put a half cup hot water in 
the bag and bake to a delicate brown. Put the chicken 
on a hot platter and arrange the parsnips around it. 
Make a cream gravy from the drippings in the bag 
and serve with mashed potatoes, currant jelly and beet 
greens. 

Chicken a la Baltimore. Take two small Spring 
chickens, prepare as for broiling, but cut into joints. 
Wipe dry, season well with salt and pepper, dip into 
beaten egg, then cover well with bread crumbs. Place 
in a well-buttered bag, pour a little melted butter or oil 
over them and bake in the oven twenty or twenty-five 
minutes. Serve with cream sauce and garnish with thin, 
crisped slices of bacon and tiny corn oysters. 

Chicken Croquettes. This may be made from left- 
over cooked chicken or from canned chicken. For a 
dozen croquettes allow one cupful of solid meat chopped 
fine, a cupful of cream sauce, made by cooking together 
four tablespoonfuls of butter and two of flour, then stir- 
ring in a scant cupful of hot milk and cooking until 
smooth and thick. Combine chicken and sauce, season 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 49 

with half a teaspoonful each plain and celery salt, a 
teaspoonful of onion juice, a little lemon juice and 
chopped parsley. Mix thoroughly, then set the mixture 
away to cool. When cool and stiff roll in finely pow- 
dered bread crumbs so that every bit of the chicken is 
covered and shape into cones, cutlets or cylinders. Have 
ready a beaten egg to which a scant tablespoonful of 
milk has been added, dip the croquettes in this, drain 
well, roll in crumbs again, and again set aside to cool 
and stiffen. When ready to cook, slip in well-buttered 
bag and bake in a hot oven twenty minutes. 

Paper Bagged Chicken. Split the chicken down 
the middle of the back, spread flat, and put a skewer in 
each side to prevent it from curling. Beat up a very 
fresh egg, with a pinch of salt, black pepper to taste, 
an ounce of melted butter, a teaspoonful of Worcester- 
shire sauce or something similar and a teaspoonful of 
made mustard. Mix well. With a brush glaze the 
chicken with the mixture. Place in a greased bag with 
bread crumbs around and over it. Be careful that the 
skewers do not tear the bag. Seal up tight and cook 
from thirty-five to forty minutes in a very hot oven. 

Chicken Pie. Disjoint two chickens and cook until 
tender in just enough water to cover. Remove all the 
thick skin and the largest bones. Line a baking dish 
with good paste, pack the chicken in layers and dust 
each with salt, pepper and flour. Pour in enough of the 
chicken liquor to come nearly to the top ; lay on a table- 
spoon of butter and cover with a crust after cutting out 
a piece as large as the top of a small cup. Moisten the 
edges and press together, then ornament the top with 
leaves cut from the trimmings of paste. Bag and bake 
in a quick oven. 



50 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

Paste for Chicken Pie. Sift five level teaspoons of 
baking powder and one level teaspoon of salt with four 
cups of flour and rub in one cup of butter until like 
coarse meal. Mix with nearly two cups of milk or 
enough to make a dough that can be rolled out. This 
makes a more hygienic crust than where no baking 
powder is used. 

Chicken Rissoles. Chop fine two cupfuls chicken 
and dressing or any scraps left. Add two spoonfuls 
mashed potato, the beaten yolk of one egg, salt and 
pepper to season. Roll in balls, dip in beaten egg yolk, 
then in fine bread crumbs and place in paper bag. Bake 
twenty minutes. 

Roast Chicken. Cover the breast of the fowl OP 
chicken with butter, drippings, or any refined vegetable 
oil or tie a piece of fat bacon over it. Place in a bag 
and set on broiler in a hot oven. Allow twenty-five 
minutes for a small Spring chicken, thirty-five minutes 
for a large fowl, forty-five to fifty minutes (according 
to size) for stuffed poultry in a moderate oven. 

Saute of Chicken With Mushrooms. Cut a young, 
tender chicken into joints, trim off all projecting bones, 
season with salt and pepper not too highly and brush 
over with melted butter. Put into a well-buttered wooden 
cook dish, with eight or twelve small mushrooms, cut in 
slices. Add a pinch of herbs, a very small onion, and a 
half gill of good white stock. Seal bag tight, give ten 
minutes in a very hot oven, then thirty in moderate heat. 
Take up on a hot dish and keep hot, while you make the 
gravy. Take for the gravy the hot liquor from the bag, 
put it in a bowl with the yolk of an egg beaten up in 
half a gill of cream. Stir hard over hot water, but do 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 51 

not let boil. When thoroughly blended, pour over the 
chicken, garnish with chopped parsley, a few mush- 
room heads and half moons of crisp puff paste. Serve 
as hot as possible. 

Smothered Chicken. Have a good sized broiler 
cut into joints, taking care not to leave sharp bones pro- 
jecting. Salt and pepper them lightly, dredge with 
flour and lay in a well-greased bag upon thin slices of 
bacon. Cover the chicken with more bacon slices, tak- 
ing care to keep the chicken spread rather flat. Add 
a tablespoonful of water or a couple of peeled and 
sliced tomatoes. Shreds of green pepper add some- 
what of flavor to the tomatoes. Seal in a bag and cook 
for forty minutes, slacking the heat almost half after the 
first five minutes. Serve on a hot dish with gravy from 
the bag. 

Ducks With Banana Dressing. Wash with cold 
salt water inside and out, drain, wipe dry and season 
lightly with salt and pepper. Make a dressing of toast- 
ed bread crumbs mixed with an equal quantity of ban- 
ana. Cut in small pieces, well seasoned with chopped 
celery, salt and pepper. Stuff, truss, grease all over 
and tie slices of bacon over the breast. Put in a well 
greased bag, add the juice of a lemon, and a wine glass 
of sherry. Seal and put in a very hot oven. At the 
end of fifteen minutes reduce heat one-half and cook for 
fifty minutes longer. 

Canvas Backs. Draw the ducks as soon as they are 
received, pluck, singe and wipe them with a damp cloth, 
but under no conditions wash them. When ready to 
cook, truss, dust lightly with pepper, and salt and 
spread them thickly with butter or vegetable oil. A very 
slight dusting of flour should be given when they are 



52 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

put into the oven. After eighteen minutes of intense 
heat they are ready to serve, accompanied by toasted 
hominy and black currant jelly. 

Chicken, Italian Style. Chop fine one onion, one 
small carrot, a stick of celery and a sprig of parsley. 
Place in the bottom of one of the wooden cookery dishes 
and season with salt, pepper and two tablespoonfuls of 
olive oil. Lay a good sized broiling chicken cut into 
joints on top of the vegetables, and around the chicken 
a half dozen dried mushrooms that have been soaked 
for fifteen minutes in cold water. Put in paper bag, 
seal and bake forty-five minutes. Remove chicken to 
hot platter, add a little tomato sauce to the vegetables 
and stock remaining in the dish, pour over the chicken 
and serve. 

Roast Wild Duck. If these come from salt marsK- 
es, and have therefore a fishy taste, pick, dress scald a 
moment in boiling salt water, then put in very cold 
water for half an hour. Drain, wipe dry and having 
cut a lemon in half rub all over inside and out with the 
juice and pulp. Then grease the outside of the duck 
with vegetable oil or butter, salt very lightly and put 
in greased bag. Seal and roast in a moderate oven for 
an hour. Serve with paper bag baked potatoes, tart 
jelly and pickles. 

Roast Wild Duck No. 2. Clean an'd singe your 
duck; have a dish with boiling water enough to cover 
same, in which you put a tablespoonful of salt and a 
little carrot; parboil for only five minutes; then take 
out and dry. Have apples peeled and cut in quarters; 
stuff the duck with them. Slice bacon and wrap about 
four slices around it, tied with a string, lay in a buttered 
bag with a teacupful of water and a little salt and pep- 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 53 

per and roast in a very hot oven for an hour. Make a 
gravy from the drippings in bag thickened slightly and 
seasoned with lemon juice, a little curry powder and 
any good sauce. 

Roast Wild Duck, Ohio Style. Dress the duck as 
usual, then stuff with one quart of sauer kraut mixed 
with one sweet apple sliced and a few mixed spices to 
season. Place two stalks of celery in one of the wooden 
cookery dishes, lay the duck on top, place in bag. Seal 
and bake in a moderate oven for an hour and a half. 

Frogs' Legs. Scald the legs in boiling hot water 
for a minute or two, drain and wipe them dry, sprinkle 
with salt and pepper, dip in beaten egg, roll in cracker 
crumbs and put in a well-greased bag. The use of a 
wood cookery dish is recommended. Bake fifteen min- 
utes in a hot oven. Serve hot with points of toast and 
slices of lemon placed around the platter. 

Paper Bag Roast Goose. For roasting, a goose 
should preferably be scarcely passed the gosling period, 
not more than a year old at the most. Its wings should 
be supple and tender at the pinions, its breast bone soft 
and pliable. Its feet smooth and yellow, and its fat 
white and soft. Before drawing, singe the bird, then give 
it a thorough bath with soapsuds and a soft scrubbing 
brush. The skin is so oily that cold water would make 
no impression, and the skin is bound to be full of dust. 
When purification is complete, rinse thoroughly in clear 
cold water, then dry and draw. Wash the inside 
quickly with clear water to which a little baking soda 
has been added, then rinse and wipe. The Germans are 
partial to a stuffing made of equal parts of bread crumbs, 
chopped apples, seeded raisins and boiled onions well 
seasoned with salt, pepper and butter. Americans as a 
rule give the preference to a potato stuffing made of 



54 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

mashed potato highly seasoned with onion, salt, pepper 
and a little butter and sage. The yolks of two eggs al- 
lowed to each pint of potato makes the dressing richer. 
Before trussing the goose, remove all the extra fat. 
This should be saved and tried out later for that sover- 
eign remedy for croup, " goose grease." It is of no 
value, however, in cooking and if left in the bird, gives a 
coarse, rank flavor. Season the goose on the inside with 
salt and pepper, then stuff and truss it into shape like 
a turkey. Rub over lightly with vegetable oil or butter, 
or cover the breast with several thin slices of fat salt 
pork. This keeps the skin moist. Put into a well- 
greased bag of goodly proportions, or better still, two 
bags, add a tablespoonful of cold water, seal and set in 
a very hot oven for fifteen minutes. Then reduce the 
heat about half and cook until done, allowing twenty-two 
minutes to the pound. Serve with apples baked in a 
bag, mashed turnips or squash and hot corn bread that 
can also be cooked in a bag. 

Sage and Potato Stuffing. Should you give the 
preference to the old-fashioned potato-and-sage stuffing, 
Such as your grandmother used to make, fashion it in 
this way: peel and boil for half an hour a half dozen 
good-sized potatoes. Mash well and season with one 
tablespoonful salt, and a teaspoonful pepper, two table- 
spoonfuls of white onions minced fine, and cooked in a 
tablespoonful of butter and a teaspoonful of sage. Mix 
lightly and stuff. 

Bag Roasted Young Guinea Fowl. It is but a few 
years ago comparatively that the excellence of the 
guinea fowl for the table was duly recognized. Most 
people were afraid to try them. Now the guinea is not 
only being served in all the best restaurants, but in many 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 55 

private homes as well. While the young guineas make 
the choicest eating, the old birds are not to be despised. 
In stuffing the guinea any approved turkey stuffing may 
be used, the accompaniments being as with turkey, gib- 
let gravy and cranberry sauce. In roasting a very little 
water goes into the bag, instead thin pieces of fat, salt 
pork are skewered across the breast and around the drum 
sticks. 

Bag Broiled Young Guinea Hen. For bag broil- 
ing, split down the back and flatten. Brush over with 
vegetable oil or melted butter, put in buttered bag and 
bake in gas oven or hot coal oven. Lay on a hot platter, 
season with salt and pepper, spread with a rounding 
tablespoonful butter stirred with a tablespoonful finely 
minced parsley, garnish with watercress and little 
moulds or spoonfuls of cranberry jelly and serve. 

Quail. As for cooking quail there is no better way 
than to roast them plain, with plenty of red pepper and 
a little salt. For those who prefer, an excellent way is 
to serve them with bacon, which supplies the fat which 
all game birds lack. 

Take a half dozen quail, wipe with a damp cloth, 
split them and break the leg bones. Mix together a tea- 
spoonful of pure olive or cotton seed oil, a dash of cay- 
enne and a tiny bit of salt. Brush the birds with this mix- 
ture and put in well greased bag, seal, put in oven and 
roast fifteen minutes. Arrange six slices of delicately 
browned toast on a hot platter, place the birds on the 
slices and baste with a mixture of good butter, minced 
parsley and the juice of a half dozen lemons. Garnish 
with slices of crisped bacon and watercress. 

Quail No. 2. Place four quail in a wooden dish with 
a link of sausage between the birds and a strip of bacon 



56 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

laid on each. Put in bag, seal, and bake twenty-five 
minutes. 

Stuffed Quail. Put into each bird a half prune or 
fat raisin, with a bit of butter and a few well seasoned 
bread crumbs. Wrap each bird in a slice of bacon, 
fastening with string or tooth picks and put in well but- 
tered bag. Seal and place on broiler and bake about 
twenty-five minutes, reducing the heat during the last 
half of the time. 

Rabbit Cookery. In selecting a rabbit the principal 
thing is to find out the age and also how long hung. A 
rabbit should be ripe but not gamy. Unless in cold 
storage, they should not be kept for more than two or 
three days. The age of a rabbit may be determined by 
testing the paw. If there is a little nut there and the 
paw may be broken readily between the thumb and 
finger the rabbit is young. If the nut has disappeared 
and the paw resists pressure, the rabbit is too venerable 
for anything but a stew. In dressing a rabbit there is a 
little secret that enables the cook to dispose of the 
gamy odor that so many object to. If the thin, muscu- 
lar membrane that extends from the flank over the in- 
testines is carefully removed before cooking, the strong 
flavor will go with it, leaving the flesh delightfully 
sweet. The gall bladder in the liver must also be re- 
moved with extreme care, so as not to break it. 

Barbecued Rabbit. Open plump young rabbits all 
the way down the under side, wash and clean thoroughly. 
Lay out flat in a pan of salt and water for an hour, with 
a weighted plate or saucer on top to hold under the 
water. Wipe dry and gash across the backbone in eight 
or ten places and having brushed it over with olive oil 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 57 

or melted butter, bag and bake in a hot oven forty-five 
minutes. 

Lay on a hot dish, season with salt, pepper and plenty 
of melted butter, then set in the oven for the butter to 
soak in. Heat in a small cup two tablespoonfuls vine- 
gar with one of made mustard and brush over the rabbit 
while boiling hot. Garnish with parsley and watercress 
and serve alone or with a currant jelly sauce. 

Roast Rabbit. Stuff, truss, dredge with flour and 
rub all over with vegetable oil, soft butter or good drip- 
pings. Season lightly with salt and paprika or black 
pepper, place in wood cookery dish in well greased bag, 
seal and place in hot oven. Allow fifty minutes, reducing 
the heat at the end of the first twenty minutes. 

Roast Rabbit No. 2. For an older rabbit, put into 
a stew kettle whole without dividing the pieces from the 
body. Pour in one quart of water, add a little pinch of 
soda when it starts to boil, and stew gently until tender. 
When tender take from the broth. Meantime mix to- 
gether three large cupfuls dried bread crumbs, butter 
the size of a walnut and salt, pepper and sage to taste. 
Pour enough of the broth over this to mix rather soft. 
Stuff the rabbit, spread with butter, sprinkle with salt 
and pepper, lay in a buttered bag and bake to a rich 
brown in a moderate oven. It will not take more than a 
few moments. Make a good brown gravy, adding onion 
browned in butter if desired. A little onion may also be 
added to the dressing, according to preference. 

Stewed Rabbit. Cut in eight pieces, salt and pepper 
and put in buttered wooden dish, set in a buttered 
bag with a finely chopped onion, a bunch of 
sweet herbs, a quarter cupful stock or hot water 
and a tablespoonful of flour stirred smooth with 



58 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

a little cold water, then blended with the hot. Seal the 
bag and bake forty-five minutes in a hot oven. 

Reed Birds. Most of the reed birds obtained in our 
markets are in reality nothing but sparrows, and those 
undrawn. If fed on grain, as they are in Chicago, they 
are really very nice. To bake, wrap each one in a thin 
slice of bacon or salt pork, put in buttered bag, seal 
and cook in a quick oven. Still more delectable are they 
cooked en surprise. For a half dozen covers, prepare 
the same number of birds, six large oval potatoes, six 
oysters, and some thin slices of bacon. Prepare the 
birds as for roasting, and tuck into each little interior an 
oyster, seasoned with salt and pepper. Then wrap each 
bird in a slice of bacon. Now, having the potatoes well 
scrubbed, cut off one end, and using a vegetable scoop, 
cut out a hollow in each large enough to hold a bird, 
Insert the bird, replace the end of the potato, cut off, tie 
in place, put in buttered bag and bake in a moderate 
oven. Serve as soon as done, removing the string. The 
flavor of the bird, oysters and potato makes a delicious 
combination that cannot be surpassed. Serve simply 
with butter, or if preferred, a mushroom or oyster sauce. 

Squab. In cleaning a squab, take care not to break 
the little sack that holds the entrails. Split the birds 
down the back, rub with salt, pepper and butter or oil. 
Sprinkle with cracker dust and put into well-buttered 
bag. Bake fifteen minutes and serve on slices of crisp, 
hot, buttered toast with or without a thin, crispy slice 
of bacon. Garnish with cress or parsley. 

Barbecued Squirrel, (Southern Style.) Get two 
fat squirrels, skin and draw. Cut the thin skin on each 
side of the stomach close to the ribs, then wipe with 



STANDARD PAPER; BAG COOKERY 59 

damp cloth. Sprinkle with black pepper but use no salt. 
Put a layer of fat bacon in a wooden dish, set in a well 
greased bag and lay the squirrels on this bed. Cover 
with more thin slices of bacon pour in the bag a half 
cupful good broth, seal, and bake an hour in a moderate 
oven. Serve with grape jelly or spiced grapes. 

Turkey a la Bonham. Pick out a young hen tur- 
key, plump and delicate with small bones. Carefully re- 
move all pin feathers and complete the drawing which 
may have been imperfectly done by the butcher. Cut off 
the neck close to the body which will make the turkey 
fit in the bag better, and make a proper appearance 
when placed on the table. Wash thoroughly inside and 
out and wipe dry. For the stuffing make two kinds one 
for the body and one for the breast. It is a good plan 
to make these different so as to suit all tastes. For the 
body, make a chestnut stuffing. Boil and peel one quart 
of large chestnuts and mash with a fork. Season with 
pepper, salt and a little butter. For the breast, take a 
pint of bread crumbs free from crusts. Fry a half onion 
cut fine in a very little butter or vegetable oil until ten- 
der but not brown. Season nicely with chopped parsley 
and thyme, not too much. Salt and pepper and moisten 
with one beaten egg. Fill the breast and sew body and 
breast neatly, pulling the skin of the breast over the 
stuffing, and fastening in place with the wings which 
should be turned back to hold the skin in place. Rub 
the outside of the bird with flour mixed with salt and 
pepper, cover the breast with slices of fat salt pork tied 
on. Now slip breast down into a thoroughly greased bag 
or preferably two bags, one outside the other, 
the outside one also well greased. Lay some 
of the fat from the turkey or a few strips of bacon 
over the bag, and put on the grate, seam up. Slip under 



60 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

the grid on the bottom of the oven a dripping pan half 
full of water to keep the bird moist, and prevent any fat 
leaking through in case the bag should burst. Be care- 
ful not to let the bag touch the side of the oven. Light 
both burners of the gas stove for five minutes to get the 
oven hot for the start. Turn out one and roast about an 
hour and three-quarters for a twelve pound bird. Lift 
out carefully, sliding the pancake turner under it to get 
it out easily and put it on hot platter. 

For the gravy, clean the giblets thoroughly and put to 
cook with the neck in water to cover well. Add one 
onion cut up and cook until tender. Chop fine and 
thicken slightly with browned flour or caramel which is 
simply sugar browned in a pan with a little boiling 
water. 

Venison. For roasting, the saddle is best. As the 
meat is naturally dry, it must be well larded with strips 
of firm fat pork. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and rub 
over with pork drippings. Put in large well greased 
bag, add two glasses of port or claret, seal and bake in 
moderate oven. For a roast of three pounds, allow an 
hour and ten minutes. For an eight pound roast, two 
hours and a half. Serve very hot with red or black cur- 
rant jelly. 

Venison Steak. Prepare in the regular way, place 
in wooden cookery dish and season with salt and pepper. 
Put in bag. Seal and cook an hour and twenty minutes. 
The wooden dishes add to the flavor of all game. 



CHAPTER X. 
BEEF. 

Bullock's Heart.- THIS is an inexpensive portion of 
the beef, but a very tasty one when properly cooked. It 
should always be served on very hot dishes, both plates 
and platter. If you elect to roast your heart, put in a 
basin of warm water and let soak for an hour to draw 
out the blood. Wipe dry, brush with oil or butter and 
tie or skewer in shape. Put in well greased bag and 
roast about two hours. Serve with a border of carrots 
sliced and fried. 

Stewed Bullock's Heart. Soak in a basin of warm 
water for an hour, then drain and wipe dry. Cut in 
halves, rub each side with flour and put in a frying pan 
with a little hot butter. As soon as browned, transfer to 
a buttered bag, adding four or five onions sliced and 
browned lightly in the same butter, together with a sprig 
of thyme and salt and pepper to season. Add a half cup- 
ful of water and cook slowly about three hours. 

Filet of Beef. Cut from the end of a tenderloin o 
beef, slices about 5-8 of an inch thick. Flatten down to 
about 3-8 of an inch and trim round. Salt lightly on 
both sides, dust with pepper, and lay in a little hot 
melted butter, flavored with a tiny scraping of garlic for 
an hour, turning three or four times in the meantime. 
Take out, put in a well buttered bag, seal and cook 
twenty-five minutes. Serve on small pieces of toast that 
have been spread with butter and browned in a bag, 
pouring over them the juice of the meat that will have 
collected in the bag. 

61 



62 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

Hamburg Steak. Hamburg steak, which is too of- 
ten a delusion and a snare as furnished by the inexperi- 
enced cook, can be so manipulated in paper bag cookery 
as to emerge a very delectable and decorative dish. In 
the first place never telephone for hamburg steak nor 
buy that already chopped and mounded ostentatiously 
on a platter with a garnish of parsley. Naturally the 
butcher works up his trimmings and inferior cuts into 
this comparatively inexpensive and much patronized 
form. Having purchased your cut of round steak in the 
slice, its lack of natural fat must be made up by the addi- 
tion of a little beef suet (preferably from the kidney). 
A piece of suet the size of a butter nut may be allowed 
to each pound of lean meat. Next, if possible, get the 
butcher to chop it by hand rather than by the easier-to- 
him method of running it through the meat grinder. Now 
having your good meat at home it may be prepared in 
any one of a half dozen ways. For the Hamburg steaks, 
press lightly together into cakes about the size of a chop. 
If onion is desired a little onion juice may be added 
with discretion, but for most tastes boiled onions served 
separately, to accompany the steak, will be found pre- 
ferable, or a few rings of raw onion added to a lettuce 
salad. The closely packed Hamburg steak is bound to 
be tough and dry. Better add a beaten egg to hold the 
chopped meat together than press the small and delicate 
particles of meat compactly. 

Season lightly, brush over with oil or melted butter 
and lay in buttered bag. Seal and roast for half an 
hour. Take up on a hot platter, season, add a little 
melted butter mixed with finely chopped parsley and 
serve hot with baked or mashed potatoes. A tomato 
sauce may go with the steaks or a brown gravy made 
from beef stock. A pleasant change in the appearance 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 63 

of Hamburg steak can be effected by shaping it. to 
look like lamb chops. When these are bag broiled with 
a bit of marcaroni in each end to simulate the chop bone 
they can be arranged to stand on a bed of parsley 
stacked against a pretty bowl containing tomato sauce 
or stewed tomato, a spoonful of which is to be served 
with each portion. The bed on which the chops are to 
rest may be mashed potato or peas, if preferred to the 
parsley. 

Pot Roast. While this does not eliminate washing 
the pot, the juices and flavor of the beef are so con- 
served that instead of the usual dry pot-roast it is moist 
and tender and so well worth the trouble. 

Peel and slice a good sized onion and brown in a 
round bottomed iron pot with a piece of beef suet. Wash 
a four or five pound piece of bottom round, place in the 
pot without any water and brown quickly on all sides, 
turning it without piercing with a fork. When very 
brown add a small cup of water, push it back and let 
simmer for one hour, turning frequently. Season and 
cook for ten minutes longer, then place it in a well 
greased bag, seal and put in a hot oven on a broiler, add- 
ing about a cupful of the liquid in which it was cooking, 
before sealing. Reduce the heat of the oven after ten 
minutes and cook an hour and a half to two hours ac- 
cording to size. Potatoes may be peeled and browned 
in the gravy left in the pot. When done, the liquid in 
the bag should be added to that in the pot and thick- 
ened for gravy, first skimming off the fat if too rich. 

Rib Roast of Beef. Grease the roast lightly with 
idrippings or vegetable oil, season with pepper, but not 
with salt, dust lightly with flour and place in well 
greased bag, seal, and place in a hot oven, at the end 



64 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

of fifteen minutes, reduce the heat one-half and continue 
cooking for half an hour longer in case of a three pound 
roast or for a seven pound one, a little over an hour. 

Roast Round of Beef in Paper Bag. Get three or 
four pounds of beef from top round, asking the butcher 
for a high chunky piece not a slab from the tenderest, 
juiciest part. Have him tie it up securely and add a 
piece of suet. Well grease the bag inside. Season and 
flour the meat, place a small piece of suet on top, insert 
in bag, fasten with paper clips, and put on a broiler in 
a hot oven, reducing the heat after about five minutes. 
Allow fifteen minutes for each pound. It will be a rich 
brown on the outside but rare and juicy. With an ex- 
ceptionally sharp carving knife the meat should be cut 
in very thin, appetizingly rare and tender slices. 

This is a most economical and nutritious roast, having 
no waste in bones and trimmings, and if cut from good 
beef is as delicious as a porterhouse roast. 

Sauer Braten. Rub a solid piece of the round of 
beef with vinegar, dust lightly with salt and pepper and 
a bit of bay leaf rubbed to a powder. Let the meat 
stand over night or twelve hours. Cut several slashes 
in the meat, put in two small onions cut in quarters and 
two carrots cut in strips and the same amount of turnip. 
Dust a pinch of poultry seasoning or sweet herbs over. 
Lay three thin slices of salt pork in the well greased 
paper bag, add a half cupful boiling water and if there 
is room in the bag tuck in a few more carrots or onions. 
Seal and place in a very hot oven for eight minutes, 
then reduce the heat at least half, and cook about two 
hours. Have a dripping pan with an inch of water in it, 
set under the oven rack so that if by any mischance the 
bag should burst, nothing would be lost. The steam 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 65 

from the water in the pan serves the same purpose as 
wetting the bag before filling, keeping it from becoming 
too brittle. Two bags will be found better than one in 
this case. 

Beef Steak. Wipe the meat, trim off extra fat and 
brush over with oil or butter. Season lightly with salt 
and pepper, put in well-greased bag, seal, place on 
grid in very hot oven and cook from fifteen to eighteen 
minutes, according to thickness of steak. At the last, 
pierce a few holes in the top of the bag, if there is any 
doubt about the steak being sufficiently browned. Take 
up on hot platter and spread with parsley butter, pour- 
ing any gravy remaining in the pan over the meat. 

Toledo Beef Steak. Place a top sirloin steak in a 
wood cookery dish, season with salt and pepper and 
place in bag. Seal and cook twenty minutes. Remove 
from the oven, open the bag and turn the steak. Spread 
over the top a little dry mustard and season with salt, 
pepper, two tablespoonfuls of drawn butter and a large 
tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce. Place on the 
top grate of the oven without the bag, and leave ten or 
fifteen minutes until crisp and brown. 

Stuffed Roast Beef or " Mock Duck." Take two 
flank steaks or one large round steak. If the former, 
sew together with coarse strong cotton, leaving one side 
open like a bag to be filled with the dressing. If the 
latter, place on the meat board and spread with a dress- 
ing made from mashed potato, well seasoned, sweet po- 
tatoes sliced and seasoned, or a forcemeat made from two 
cupfuls bread crumbs, a quarter cup butter or vege- 
table oil, in which a chopped onion has been cooked, 
with salt, pepper and cloves to season. The Germans 
like a half cupful of seeded raisins or chopped prunes 



66 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

added to this. Roll the meat about the filling and tie 
with strips of cotton cloth, or if you are using the flank 
steak, stuff the pocket and tie in shape. Butter the 
pocket or roll well on the outside, slip into a large well 
buttered bag, add a tablespoonful of broth or hot water, 
seal, and cook in a hot oven ten minutes. 

Reduce the heat and cook forty or fifty minutes more 
according to weight of the steak. A second bag over 
the first is advised here when the roll is heavy. 



CHAPTER XI. 
LAMB AND MUTTON. 

THE paper bag seems made expressly for lamb and 
mutton cookery. 

Breast of Lamb With Tomato Sauce. Get three 
pounds breast of lamb, boil until tender, and slip out the 
bones. This is best done the day before you are to bag 
it. Half an hour before serving, egg, crumb, season and 
put in a well greased bag. Seal and put in a very hot 
oven for twenty minutes. Serve with tomato sauce. 

Lamb Chops. If you use the rib chops have them 
frenched, saving the trimmings for the stock pot. If you 
have the loin chops, skewer to keep in shape. Season 
with salt and pepper and brush over with oil or melted 
butter. Put in a well-greased bag, seal, place on the 
grid shelf in a hot oven, and cook for ten or fifteen min- 
utes according to the thickness of the chop. When done 
put on a hot platter and spread with parsley or mint 
butter. 

Lamb or Mutton Cutlets With Tomatoes. Cut 
the best end of the neck into neat cutlets, flatten and 
trim. Season with salt and pepper, brush with melted 
butter or oil, sprinkle with mint or chopped parsley and 
chives, and place in a buttered bag, with a tablespoonful 
of tomato on each chop. Seal and cook in hot oven 
twelve or fifteen minutes. 

67 



68 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

Lamb Fry. Wash thoroughly a pound and a half of 
lamb's fry and put in a pan of cold water. Simmer five 
minutes, lift out and pat dry on a soft cloth. Divide in 
nice pieces, dip in a batter made of one egg, one table- 
spoonful of milk, salt and pepper to season and flour 
to make of the consistency of cream. Arrange these 
pieces in a buttered bag. Seal and bake ten minutes. 
Serve with fried parsley. 

Lamb's Kidney. > Skin, split, dip in butter and place 
on skewer. Dust with salt and pepper, and place in 
buttered bag. Seal, place in hot oven and cook eight 
minutes. 

Leg of Mutton Cooked in Cider. Buy the leg of 
mutton two or three days before you wish to serve it. 
Take off the " woolly " skin that has the strong taste on 
the outside and wipe carefully with a damp cloth. Then 
rub with a mixture of spices, using half a teaspoonful 
each of cinnamon, cloves, allspice, pepper and nutmeg. 
Rub thoroughly and hang the mutton in a cool place for 
two days; then put in a well-greased bag, adding four 
onions chopped fine, a cupful seedless raisins and a cup- 
ful of sweet cider. Put in hot oven and bake half an 
hour, then reduce the heat, and cook an hour and a half. 
Serve with a hot cider sauce. 

Mutton Chops and Sausage. Place two thick chops 
in a wooden dish with three links of sausage. Season 
lightly with salt and pepper, lay two strips of bacon 
over the top of the chops and seal in bag. Bake from 
twenty minutes to half an hour in a moderate oven. 

Ragout of Lamb. Grease the bag well, and lay in a 
layer of sliced raw potatoes, seasoned lightly. Put on 
top of the potatoes a layer of meat, seasoned with salt, 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 69 

pepper and chopped parsley, and lay thin slices of onion 
across meat. Add one-half cup canned tomato or to- 
mato sauce, cover the whole with another layer of sliced 
potato, seal, and bake thirty-five minutes. You may use 
a wooden cooking dish here to advantage. 

Roast Leg of Lamb. Trim nicely and rub over 
with oil, dredge with a little flour and season with salt, 
pepper and powdered mint. Seal and bake two hours. 
Serve with mint sauce. 

A Genuine Irish Stew. Cut two pounds of chops 
from the best end of a neck of mutton, and pare away 
nearly all the fat. A portion of the breast may be cut 
into squares and used, but a neck of mutton is the best 
joint for the purpose. Take as many potatoes as will 
amount after peeling to twice the weight of the meat. 
Slice them with eight large onions sliced. Put a layer 
of mixed potatoes and onions at the bottom of the but- 
tered paper bag. Place the meat on this and season it 
plentifully with pepper and lightly with salt. Pack 
closely, and cover the meat with another layer of potato 
and onion. Pour in as much water or stock as will 
moisten the topmost layer, seal tightly, and let the con- 
tents cook gently for two and a half hours. You may use 
one of the large wooden cooking dishes here. 



CHAPTER XII. 
PORK IN VARIED FORMS. 

Bacon and Apples. CORE, but do not peel, well 
flavored apples and cut in crosswise rings about a quar- 
ter of an inch thick. Lay on thin slices of streaky bacon 
in a well buttered bag, dust lightly with sugar, seal and 
cook eight minutes in a hot oven. 

Bacon and Bananas. Peel firm bananas, halve them 
lengthwise, dust lightly with pepper and wrap each in a 
thin slice of streaky bacon. Put in a well greased bag, 
seal and cook in a hot oven ten minutes. 

Bacon and Calf's Liver. Pour boiling water over 
thin slices of calf's liver and let stand ten minutes. 
Drain, pat dry and dredge with flour, seasoning with 
pepper and a little salt. Lay slices of bacon in a greas- 
ed bag and on top put a layer of the liver, seal and bake 
fifteen minutes. Serve on hot platter. 

Baked Pork Chops. Season with salt and pepper, 
then cover each side of the chops with a forcemeat made 
moist enough to stick to them. Place in a well greased 
bag, adding a spoonful of water, seal and bake twenty- 
five minutes. 

Pork Chops and Sweet Potatoes. Select six sweet 
potatoes of uniform size. Peel, cut in half lengthwise, 
brush each piece all over with melted butter and dredge 
lightly with powdered sugar. Place in a thoroughly 

TO 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 71 

buttered bag flat side down. On top of them put pork 
chops, seasoned, rolled in flour and from which the fat 
has been partly trimmed. Seal and bake in hot oven 
on broiler for twenty-five minutes. 

Pork chops cooked in this way are as tender as 
chicken, not hard in fibre as they usually are when 
fried. 

Ham and Scalloped Potatoes. Peel and slice po- 
tatoes very thin. Put a layer in the bottom of a buttered 
bag and on top of the potatoes a layer of raw ham sliced 
very thin, and with the most of the fat trimmed off. 
Sprinkle with a little flour. Add little bits of butter 
rolled in flour and salt and pepper to season. Proceed 
in this way until the desired amount is obtained, having 
the top layer of potatoes sprinkled with flour and bits of 
butter. Turn in enough sweet milk or cream to come 
even with the top layer, and bake twenty minutes or un- 
til the potatoes are tender. The trimmings from the fat 
of the ham can be used in place of the butter if pre- 
ferred. One of the wooden cooking dishes is convenient 
here. 

1 Ham, Spinach and Lamb Chops. Place two or 
more slices of ham in a wood cookery dish. Spread over 
it the contents of a small can of spinach and on top 
of the spinach place Frenched lamb chops. Put in 
greased paper bag, and surround by six potatoes pre- 
pared for baking. Close the bag, and bake 45 minutes 
in a moderate oven. This makes a very easy dinner 
as the whole meal can be cooked in the oven without hav- 
ing to be watched and the mistress of the house can 
be ready dressed to entertain guests without danger of 
spoiling her frock by spattering grease. 



72 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

Stuffed Fresh Ham or Shoulder. Have tlie 
knuckle and bone removed, wash, wipe dry, season with 
salt and pepper and fill the bone space with a forcemeat 
to which apples or stewed prunes have been added. Sew 
or skewer into shape, then lay skin side up in a large, 
well greased bag. Add a half cup of water or cider, a 
few slices of onion, seal and bake for fifteen minutes in 
a very hot oven, then reduce the heat one-half and bake 
an hour. 

Roast Loin of Pork. Sprinkle with salt and pep- 
per, dredge lightly with flour and put into a greased bag 
with a half cup of water or tomato. Seal and bake an 
hour and a half. Serve with apples baked in another 
bag. 

Roast Spare-Rib. Cut the skin of the spare-rib in 
checks, season with salt and pepper and put in a well- 
greased bag surrounded by apples or sweet potatoes cut 
in halves, and bake three-quarters of an hour. 

Baked Sausage With Apples. Put links of sau- 
sage or sausage cakes in greased bag, and surround with 
well flavored apples cored and cut in halves but not 
peeled. Stand the apples flesh side down. Seal and 
bake fifteen minutes. 

Baked Sausage and Potato. Get the best country 
sausage meat and mould into a little roll. Dust lightly 
with flour and put into a well greased bag. Peel enough 
potatoes to make a wall about the meat and cut them in 
halves. They should stand with the cut side against the 
meat. Seal the bag and bake about thirty minutes until 
the potatoes are tender and brown and the sausage well 
done. If desired, use the drippings that come from the 
sausage as the foundation for a cream gravy to serve 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 73 

with the sausage or serve without Sausage cooked in 
this way is also nice sliced cold and makes appetizing 
sandwiches for the school lunch basket. 

Baked Sausage With Toast. Put a half dozen link 
sausages in a well-greased bag, separating them by 
as many slices of bread cut the same height. Add a half 
cup of good brown sauce and a few mushrooms if desired. 
Seal and bake twelve minutes. Serve with the sauce 
and a little minced parsley sprinkled over the sausage. 

Baked Sausage With Tomatoes. Put into the 
greased bag sausage cakes or links. Chop fine one small 
onion, a teaspoonf ul of parsley and two tomatoes, spread 
over the sausage, seal and cook twenty minutes. 

Tenderloin of Pork. Get fat, large tenderloins and 
have them split, but leave connected down the side. Fill 
with a good forcemeat or potato dressing well seasoned, 
skewer the edges together or tie with string, put in well 
greased bag adding a tablespoonful of water and bake 
twenty minutes. Serve with curried apples, made in this 
way and baked in another bag at the same time. Peel 
and core the apples and fill the cavities with a mixture of 
curry powder, grated cheese and fine breadcrumbs. For 
eight apples use four tablespoon fuls and a half of curry 
powder and eight of the bread crumbs. Moisten the 
mixture with milk. Bag, seal and bake. These apples 
are nice served cold with cold roast pork. 



CHAPTER XIII. 
VEAL. 

Baked Calf's Liver. ONE calf's liver washed and 
dried, slashed and scored inside. Have bread dressing 
ready well seasoned with onions. Stuff the liver with 
this and tie with cord. Skewer to liver with toothpicks 
several pieces of bacon, put a little hot water in the bag 
and bake at least one hour in a hot over. Send to table 
hot, with a parsley garnish. 

Calves' Brains in Tempting But Inexpensive 
Ways. Carefully prepared few can tell the difference 
between sweetbreads and calves' brains though the 
housewife will appreciate the fact that sweetbreads cost 
about four times as much as the brains. In whichever 
way one elects to cook the brains, the preliminary treat- 
ment is the same. Parboil fifteen minutes in water, to 
which has been added a teaspoonful of salt and a table- 
spoonful of vinegar. After this, let them lie in cold 
water a few moments, then remove all membranes and 
dark streaks. They are now ready to be cooked in any 
way preferred. 

Breaded Brains. Separate the lobes of a pair of 
brains that have been parboiled as directed. Then with 
a sharp knife split each division. Beat the yolk of an 
egg lightly, thin slightly with cold water or milk, dip the 
brains in this, then into finely rolled crumbs. Put in a 
buttered bag and bake twenty minutes. Serve on a hot 

74 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 75 

dish with a garnish of quarters of lemon that have been 
rolled in finely minced parsley. 

Sweetbreads. The initial treatment of sweet- 
breads, when they come from the market, is always the 
same. Parboil at once in salted water, from fifteen to 
thirty minutes, never allowing them to boil. Then 
plunge into ice water and lemon juice or vinegar (a 
tablespoonful to a quart of water) and leave for an hour 
to blanch and become firm. After parboiling, the little 
strings and membranes can be very readily removed. 
Now they are ready for the finishing culinary touch, 
in anyway the cook may elect. 

Baked Sweetbreads. Sprinkle with salt and pep- 
per, roll in crumbs then beaten egg to which a spoonful 
of milk has been added, then in crumbs again, the last 
time having the crumbs well buttered. Put in greased 
bag and bake half an hour in a moderately hot oven. 
Serve on toast with the brown gravy poured over the 
slices. 

Sweetbreads With Bacon. Slice sweetbreads, roll 
in seasoned crumbs, then in egg and again in crumbs. 
Put on a skewer, alternating with slices of bacon cut 
thin, put in a greased bag, and bake twenty minutes in 
medium oven. 

Larded Sweetbreads. Lard the boiled sweetbreads 
with strips of bacon and lemon peel, having the bacon in 
the centre and peel on the sides. Lay in paper bag with 
brown gravy to half cover, and let them bake for an 
hour, or until brown. Arrange on a hot dish, thicken the 
gravy with a little flour and season with catsup, lemon 
juice and spices to taste. Pour over the sweetbreads and 
serve with peas. 



76 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

Sweetbreads Straight. Parboil the sweetbreads, 
take off the skins, dust each sweetbread with salt and 
pepper very lightly and pour over each a tablespoonful 
of cream. Slip the sweetbreads into a thickly greased 
bag and cook in a moderate oven slowly for forty min- 
utes. Serve on a hot dish with a border of asparagus or 
green peas. 

Vealettes. Purchase veal cuts from the leg in slices 
as large as one's hand and about half an inch thick. On 
each slice lay a large tablespoonful of dressing made 
from seasoned bread crumbs, a beaten egg and a table- 
spoonful of melted butter. Roll up the slices, pinning 
with toothpicks to keep the dressing in. Put in a well 
greased bag, seal and bake about three-quarters of an 
hour. When done, thicken the gravy, pour over the veal 
and serve on a hot platter. 

A variation in vealettes is made by getting from the 
butcher two slices of veal and a slice of ham the same 
size. Put together like a sandwich with the ham in the 
center and skewer together. Trim the edges evenly and 
bake in a bag. When the veal is done take up on a hot 
platter, thicken the drippings remaining in the bag, add- 
ing enough hot water to make a good consistency. 

Veal Loaf. Mince three pounds raw lean veal and 
a quarter pound of fine fat pork, salt or fresh. Season 
with half an onion, grated fine, a tablespoonful of salt, 
a half teaspoonful of pepper, a half teaspoonful pow- 
dered thyme, quarter of a spoonful sweet marjoram, the 
same amount Summer savory and a saltspoonful celery 
salt. Next mix in two-thirds of a cup of rolled cracker 
crumbs, a scant cupful veal gravy or hot milk, the yolk of 
one egg and the whites of two beaten together until light. 
Mix thoroughly and form into a compact loaf. Roll it 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 77 

until coated in yolks of the two eggs left over, then in 
sifted cracker or bread crumbs, and put in buttered bag 
and bake in a moderate oven. Roast two hours and 
serve cold, cut in very thin slices. 

Shoulder of Veal Stuffed and Braised.^-Buy a 
shoulder of veal and ask the butcher to bone it and send 
the bones with the meat. Cover the bones with cold 
water and when it comes to a boil, skim, then add a little 
onion and carrot, a few seasoning herbs and any 
spices desired. Simmer gently for an hour or so until 
you have a pint of stock. To make the stuffing, take a 
stale loaf, cut off the crust and soak in a little cold water 
until soft. Rub the crumb of the loaf as fine as possible 
in the hands, then add to the soaked and softened crust. 
Chop a half cupful of suet fine, put into a frying pan a 
tablespoonful of the suet, and when hot add an onion 
chopped fine. Cook until brown, then add to the bread 
with regular poultry seasoning or else salt, pepper and 
a bit of thyme. Mix well and stuff the cavity in the 
shoulder, then pull the flaps of the meat over and sew 
up. Put the rest of the suet in the frying pan, and hav- 
ing dusted the meat with flour, salt, pepper and a 
sprinkling of sugar, brown on all sides in the fat. Into 
the bottom of the bag put a layer of thin sliced onion 
and carrot, a bit of bay leaf and sprigs of parsley, and 
on this lay the meat. Add two or three cloves, pour the 
hot stock around it, cover closely and braise in a hot 
oven for two and a half hours. 



CHAPTER XIV. 
SAUCES AND GRAVIES. 

Bignon's Sauce. THIS is a delightful appetizer 
with meats cold or hot, or with fish. Chop fine equal 
parts, say one tablespoonful of each, capers, parsley, 
chives, gherkins, tarragon and green Chili peppers. 
Mix together; season with salt, pepper and cayenne and 
cover with tarragon vinegar; let it stand an hour and 
add three tablespoonful s of oil and a teaspoonful of 
French mustard. 

Bread Sauce. Mince an onion and boil in milk until 
soft. Then strain the milk over one cupful of grated 
bread crumbs and stand aside, closely covered, for an 
hour. Add the minced onion, two tablespoonfuls 
of butter, pepper, salt and a bit of mace to season. Set 
over the fire, boil up and serve with roasted or broiled 
birds. 

Brown Sauce. The formula for this is the same as 
for the white sauce, except that the butter and fat are 
browned before the flour is added, or browned flour is 
used for thickening. Use a little more flour proportion- 
ately, in a brown sauce, as the browning destroys, in a 
measure, the thickening qualities of the flour. Reduce 
with brown stock or water. 

With this as foundation, any number of palatable 
sauces can be invented which will be found useful in dis- 
posing of many odds and ends of vegetables, cold meats 

78 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 79 

and left-over fish, that might otherwise "go begging." 

Celery Sauce. Prepare a smooth, white sauce by 
blending over the fire two tablespoonfuls each butter, 
and flour, then reducing with a pint of warm milk. Add 
a dozen stalks of celery that have been minced fine and 
cooked tender in just enough water to cover. Cook two 
minutes, season with salt and pepper and serve with 
boiled fowl. 

Currant Jelly Sauce. This makes a delicious addi- 
tion to roast venison or mutton. Cook together in a 
saucepan one tablespoonful butter and a teaspoonful 
minced onion. When the onion is lightly colored, (not 
blackened) add a teaspoonful of flour and stir until 
smooth. Add gradually a half cupful stock, stirring all 
the time, and when it boils up add a bit of bay leaf, a 
teaspoonful vinegar, a half teaspoonful salt, and eighth 
teaspoonful pepper, one clove, and a tablespoonful of 
currant jelly. Simmer five minutes, strain and serve 
hot. 

Curry Sauce. This is nice with any delicate meat 
or fish or can be poured over boiled rice for a side 
dish. Put two tablespoonfuls butter in a saucepan, then 
stir into it two tablespoonfuls flour. Add a scant table- 
spoonful curry powder and a teaspoonful onion juice, 
and cook a moment or two, but do not allow them to 
brown. Stir in gradually one cupful milk and cook until 
smooth and thickened. Add a cup of cream, season with 
salt and just before serving, add, if you like, a hard 
boiled egg chopped fine. 

Hollandaise Sauce. Put one-half cup of butter in- 
to a bowl of cold water and wash it to take out the salt. 
Divide it into three parts and put one-third into the top 



80 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

of a double boiler with the yolks of two eggs and a 
tablespoon of lemon juice. Stir and cook until the but- 
ter melts, add another piece of butter and continue stir- 
ring. As the sauce thickens stir in the last piece, add 
one-third cup of boiling water, a speck of cayenne and 
a saltspoon of salt and cook one minute. 

Horseradish Sauce. Put a saucepan over the 
fire with a tablespoonful of butter and a half tablespoon- 
ful of floor. Stir and cook two minutes, then add a half 
cupful of strained soup stock and a half cupful of milk, 
six whole peppers, a bit of bay leaf and an even half 
teaspoonful of salt. Cook five minutes, remove bay leaf 
and peppers, and add three tablespoonfuls grated horse- 
radish. Cook two minutes and serve. 

Maitre d'Hotel Butter.- To make it, rub a quarter 
cupful of butter to a cream, add a half teaspoonful of 
salt, a good dash of pepper, white or paprika, a table- 
spoonful of fine chopped parsley and a tablespoonful of 
lemon juice. If you are partial to nutmeg, a grating of 
that is sometimes added. 

Mexican Sauce. Take four large tomatoes or the 
equivalent in canned, three green peppers and one onion. 
Chop pepper and onion in a wooden bowl, add the to- 
mato and salt and pepper to season. To one-half cupful 
of vinegar, add the drippings from four slices fried ba- 
con, pour over the chopped vegetables and serve in in- 
dividual salad dishes as an accompaniment to meats. 

Mint Sauce for Roast Lamb. Put one cup of vine- 
gar and one rounding tablespoon of sugar together and 
stir in one-quarter cup of finely minced mint. Let stand 
fifteen minutes before it is served. 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 81 

French Mustard Sauce, Creole Style. Work to- 
gether three tablespoonfuls mustard and one cupful 
sugar, then beat in one egg until smooth. Add one cup- 
ful of vinegar a little at a time, set over the fire and cook 
three or four minutes stirring constantly. When cold 
add one tablespoonful olive oil beating all well together. 

An Excellent Mustard Sauce for Cold Meat. 
Two teaspoonfuls flour, one teaspoonful sugar, one tea- 
spoonful mustard, a little pepper and salt. Mash all to- 
gether, add boiling water, to make thick paste. Beat 
constantly till lumps are all out. Add sufficient vinegar 
to make it thinner. Be sure the water is boiling. 

Onion Sauce. Prepare a smooth white sauce by 
blending over the fire two tablespoonfuls of butter and a 
tablespoonful and a half of flour. When bubbly, turn in 
two cupfuls of hot milk, and stir until smooth and thick- 
ened. Add two large boiled onions minced fine, cook a 
moment, season with salt and pepper and serve with 
poultry or boiled veal. 

Spanish Sauce. For veal, lamb or mutton chops, 
broiled or fried fish, chicken, etc. One large onion, one 
full section of garlic, one-half large sweet, green or red 
pepper. Put in two tablespoonfuls of butter, one tea- 
spoonful of olive or vegetable oil. When effervescing 
stops add a half teaspoonful of salt, and the onion, gar- 
lic and green pepper which has been finely grated. When 
this begins to brown, giving it time to cook rather well, 
add four good sized tomatoes, skinned and chopped, or 
the thick part of one can of tomatoes. Let all simmer 
for fifteen to twenty minutes with occasional stirring to 
prevent burning. Add salt and pepper, paprika, or cay- 
enne to taste, two tablespoonfuls tomato ketchup and one 
desertspoonful Worcestershire Sauce, before taking off 



82 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

fire. It should be the consistency of good cream. If too 
thin, cook down, or if too thick add a sufficient amount of 
boiling water. Use red pepper as a seasoning. 

Thick Tomato Sauce. Blend over the fire two 
tablespoonfuls of melted butter and two tablespoonfuls 
of flour; add a little at a time, and stirring all the while, 
one large cupful of tomato juice. Stir until the mixture 
thickens; then season to taste with sugar, salt and cay- 
enne pepper. The seasoning may sometimes be varied 
by adding a little chopped parsley or chopped onion or 
even both. For a thinner tomato sauce use but one table- 
spoonful of butter and one of flour to each cupful of 
liquor. 

Sauce Tartare. Make first a good mayonnaise, then 
finish with the addition of a tablespoonful each of chop- 
ped gherkins, olives, parsley and capers; mix together 
in a bowl a half teaspoonful of salt, a half teaspoonful 
mustard, a half teaspoonful of powdered sugar and a 
half saltspoonful of pepper; add the yolks of two raw 
eggs that have been in the ice box long enough to be as 
cold as possible and beat lightly; measure out a half cup- 
ful of olive oil and have this cold also ; add the oil slowly 
at first, then as it begins to thicken it can be poured in 
more rapidly. When quite thick, add three tablespoonfuls 
of vinegar, then the chopped ingredients. This will keep 
several weeks. Tarragon vinegar may be used in place 
of the cider vinegar if preferred. 



CHAPTER XV. 
RECOOKED DISHES. 

Beef Steak Left Overs. MINCE fine and for eacK 
cup of meat add a tablespoonful of chopped ham and 
half as much bread crumbs as you have meat. Moisten 
the crumbs with a little hot milk and add to the meat. 
Season highly with salt, pepper and chopped parsley or 
substitute a little sage or onion juice for the parsley. 
Beat one egg light and add to the other ingredients. 
Make into a brick shaped loaf, grease over with warmed 
butter or oil, put in paper bag also greased. Seal and 
bake twenty-five minutes. Dish on a hot platter, pour 
tomato sauce about it or serve with horse radish sauce. 

Chicken Croquettes. To one solid cupful of meat 
chopped as fine as powder, add one half teaspoonful of 
salt, and a half saltspoonful of white pepper. Make a 
pint of thick cream sauce, allowing to two level table- 
spoonfuls of butter, two heaping tablespoonfuls of corn- 
starch cooked together diluted with a pint of hot milk or 
cream and stirred and cooked until smooth and thick. 
Season with salt and pepper and add enough to the 
chicken to make stiff enough to handle when cold. When 
cold shape into balls, roll in fine, dry bread crumbs and 
beaten egg diluted with a little water, then crumb again 
and place in well greased bag. Seal and cook ten min- 
utes. 

83 



84 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

Mock Fried Oysters. To two cupfuls cold boiled 
rice, add one tin of sardines, from which all bone and 
skin have been removed. Roll this coarse paste into flat, 
circular cakes, put into well-greased bag and bake fifteen 
minutes in moderate oven. 

Turkey Croquettes. Chop the fragments of turkey 
or other left over meats very fine, adding for seasoning 
a small portion of bologna, ham or tongue together with 
a bit of fine minced onion or onion juice, salt, pepper 
and parsley. Make a thick cream sauce, allowing for a 
pint of the chopped and seasoned meat the following 
portions: 

Put into a saucepan a heaping tablespoonful butter 
and two level tablespoonfuls of flour. As soon as blend- 
ed, pour in a cupful of hot milk stirring until thick and 
smooth. Salt to taste. Add the meat and beat until well 
mixed. 

Season more highly if desired, then set away in a 
cold place until cold and stiffened. Form into cones. 
Dip in beaten egg, roll in fine crumbs and place in a 
cold place again until quite dry. Bake in well greased 
bag and stick a little sprig of parsley in the end of each 
cone before serving. 

Edinboro Hot Pot. You will need for this one 
pound of cold meat sliced and browned in sweet drip- 
pings, one large onion sliced and browned in the same 
drippings, a half tin of tomatoes, a half dozen cold 
boiled or baked potatoes sliced and a little good stock 
made from the bones and seasoning. Put a layer of 
meat in the well greased bag or in one of the oval wood 
cookery dishes made specially for the purpose. On top 
of the meat put some of the onions, tomatoes and pota- 
toes. Season with salt, pepper and butter or vegetable 
shortening and pour over all about a cupful of good 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 85 

stock. Seal the bag and bake for a half hour in a mod- 
erate oven. 

Individual Meat Pies. Chop fine any cold cooked 
meat. Season highly with mustard, pepper sauce and 
catsup, salt and pepper; add one egg; moisten with 
liquor of oysters. Make a rich biscuit crust, roll out to 
a quarter of an inch thickness, and cut in squares. Fill 
half of each square with one tablespoonful of the pre- 
pared meat. Fold remaining half of square over, first 
moistening edges with oyster liquor, and press closely to- 
gether. Put in buttered bag and bake twenty minutes in 
hot oven, reducing the heat after the first ten minutes. 

English Pasties. Cut any cold meat up into small 
pieces, add a cupful of sliced potatoes, raw, and an 
onion chopped fine, some parsley and pepper and salt to 
taste. Stew this until the potato is done and thicken 
with flour rubbed in butter. Make a crust of flour and 
salt, using chopped suet and butter in equal quantities 
for shortening and a teaspoonful of baking powder to 
each quart of flour. Roll the crust out thin and cut into 
large discs the cover of a two quart pail makes a good 
pastie cutter. Put two large spoonfuls of the meat mix- 
ture on the crust and roll over, pinching edges together 
like a fruit turnover. Bag and bake one-half hour in a 
hot oven. If there is any of the meat gravy left serve it 
with the pasties. 

Olla Podrida Pie. Grease one of the oval wood 
dishes and line with a crust about a quarter of an inch 
thick. Fill with meat scraps of any sort cut small and 
heated together in a little stock or gravy, well seasoned 
with tomato and powdered herbs. Small leftovers of any 
vegetable, peas, corn or cauliflower may also be minced 
and added with good effect. Cover with strips of good 



86 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

paste lattice fashion, slip into a well greased bag and 
cook half an hour in a moderate oven. 

Oyster Bundles. Cut generous, uniform slices of 
cold turkey or veal, lay a slice of bacon on each, then an 
oyster on each slice of the bacon. Roll the three to- 
gether, fasten with tooth picks and put in buttered bag. 
Bake fifteen minutes and serve with potatoes baked in 
another bag. 



CHAPTER XVI. 
CHEESE AND EGG DISHES. 

Cheese Ball With Tomato Sauce. Mix together 
two cupfuls grated cheese, a cupful of fine 
bread crumbs, a quarter teaspoonful of salt and a 
few grains of cayenne. Then add two eggs beaten stiff, 
shape in small balls, roll in crushed cracker crumbs and 
lay in well buttered bag. Bake ten minutes and serve on 
triangles of buttered toast with tomato sauce. 

Cheese Fritters to Serve With the Salad Course. 

Beat two eggs, season with salt, pepper and a sus- 
picion of mustard and then lay in this seasoned egg as 
many thin slices of American cheese as it will hold. 
Have ready tart apples cored and sliced crosswise with- 
out peeling. Put a slice of cheese between two rounds of 
apple, sandwich fashion, dip the sandwiches in the egg, 
lay in a well greased paper bag seal and cook ten min- 
utes. Serve very hot. 

Pepper Cheese. Take green peppers, scorch 
slightly in hot oven or over the coals, then remove 
the outer skin with a sharp knife. Split the peppers, 
remove the seeds, and put in their place a small roll of 
cream cheese. Roll up again, skewer together with a 
wooden tooth-pick, dip in beaten egg and cracker crumbs 
and put in well buttered bag. Seal and bake fifteen 
minutes in hot oven. 

8T 



88 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

Cheese Ramekins. Roll out a sheet of pie crust 
and sprinkle liberally with grated cheese. Roll up and 
roll out again. Sprinkle on more cheese and repeat the 
rolling. Stamp out with a biscuit cutter (the pastry 
should be about a quarter of an inch thick), put in but- 
tered bag and bake in a hot oven. When done, dip both 
sides in melted butter and serve hot. 

Cheese and Eggs. Butter the bottom of a baking 
dish and cover with slices of rich cheese. Break several 
whole eggs over the cheese, taking care that the whites 
and yolks do not become separated. Season with salt 
and pepper, and pour over all a rich cream, a half table- 
spoonful to each egg. 

Baked Eggs. Butter little casseroles or gem pans, 
and drop an egg in each. Season with salt and pepper and 
put a little cream on the top of each egg. Put in bag, 
seal and bake five minutes. These are exceedingly deli- 
cate, as the steam being retained they bake quickly, yet 
do not become hard. Set each on a plate for serving. 

Baked Eggs With Cheese. Break into a buttered 
pan the number of eggs required. Pour over each one 
tablespoon of rich, sweet cream, sprinkle over all a thin 
layer of grated cheese and a few fine rolled crumbs. 
Season with salt and pepper, put in bag, seal, and bake 
about six minutes. 

A Paper Bag Omelette. Beat two eggs for about 
five minutes. Add a dash of salt and pepper and a 
heaping teaspoonful of flour. Beat again until flour is 
well mixed in and add a small cupful of milk. Put a 
tablespoonful of minced breakfast bacon into a pie tin, 
when quite hot pour egg mixture over it. Put in paper 
bag, seal, and bake a delicate brown in a quick oven. 
Cut in squares and serve immediately. 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 89 

Cheese Omelette. A savory of cheese omelette may 
be made from one egg if the following recipe is used. 
Soak one small cupful grated bread crumbs in two cup- 
fuls of sweet milk into which a pinch of soda has been 
dissolved. Beat one egg very light and add to the soft- 
ened bread. Stir in one teaspoonful of melted butter 
and a dash of cayenne. Beat the whole well, add a 
small cupful grated cheese and a teaspoonful of salt. 
Beat again, turn into a buttered bag, bake twenty 
minutes and serve at once. 

Swiss Eggs. For Swiss eggs spread the bottom of a 
bag with two ounces of fine American cheese. Place 
four eggs on the cheese, taking care that the yolks are not 
broken. Season with pepper and salt. Pour around 
the eggs two tablespoonfuls of rich cream and cover the 
top with grated cheese. Put in bag, seal and bake for 
ten minutes. Garnish with parsley and serve with 
fingers of crisp toast. 

Eggs in Tomato Cups. Cut fresh tomatoes in half 
and scoop out part of the interior. Fry the tomato cups 
until half done. Then break into each of them an egg. 
Put then in a buttered bag, seal and cook ten minutes. 
The tops of the eggs may be sprinkled with minced ham 
or grated cheese, or they may be served plain. Season 
and serve hot. 



CHAPTER XVII. 
VEGETABLES. 

WHILE no claim is made that all vegetables are im- 
proved through paper bag cookery, experiments prove 
that quite a number can be successfully cooked by the 
paper bag process. Vegetables of strong flavor as a 
rule are best cooked in a large quantity of water and are 
not recommended for paper bag cookery; only the more 
delicate vegetables that need to have their flavors con- 
served. Dried peas, lentils and beans are excellent 
cooked in paper bags but require a longer preliminary 
soaking than is usual with other methods of cooking. 

Asparagus. Trim and scrape as for boiling; wasE 
very clean. Tie in bundles and put into a buttered bag 
with a little salt and a quarter cupful of water. Seal 
and cook from thirty-five to forty minutes in a hot oven 

Asparagus With Chesse. Boil two bunches of as- 
paragus twelve minutes in salted water. Drain, but 
save the water. Put the asparagus in a buttered bag or 
in one of the oval wooden dishes, scattering grated 
Swiss or Parmesan cheese between the layers. Turn 
over all a cup of the water in which the asparagus was 
boiled, sprinkle the top of the scallop with a little cheese 
and a few buttered bread crumbs. Seal the bag and 
cook fifteen minutes in a moderate oven. 

Lima Beans. Add to a quart of shelled Lima beans 
three tablespoonfuls of butter or vegetable oil, a quarter 

90 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 91 

pound of diced bacon or ham, a little minced parsley or 
other seasoning herbs, and a teaspoonful of flour. Put 
in a greased bag with a cupful of water, seal and cook an 
hour in a moderate oven. 

String Beans, Oriental Style. String the beans, 
cut in two lengthwise, then break in inch pieces. To 
every pint of beans, which should be young and tender, 
allow one cupful boiling water, two tablespoonfuls vege- 
table oil, one small onion sliced, and a half cupful tomato, 
Salt and pepper to taste. Put all in greased paper bag 
and cook forty-five minutes. A wooden cookery dish can 
be employed to advantage. 

Boston Baked Bean Cakes. These are made of 
left-over baked beans. Heat with a little water to 
moisten, rub through a colander, season with salt, pepper 
and mustard. Put a tablespoonful of pork drippings or 
butter in a frying pan, and cook in it, when hot, a table- 
spoonful of minced onion, taking care not to let it 
blacken. Add to the beans, make into cakes and lay in 
well-greased bag. Cook twenty minutes and serve with 
tomato sauce. 

Bean Croquettes. Soak one pint white pea beans 
or the little brown Mexican frijoles over night in cold 
water. In the morning cook until soft in water to which 
a saltspoonful of soda has been added, changing the 
water after it first comes to a boil. Rub through a 
colander, then add to the pulp one cup grated bread 
crumbs, one tablespoonful minced parsley, two table- 
spoonfuls melted butter, two eggs well beaten, one 
small onion grated and salt and pepper to season. Mix 
thoroughly, shape into cylinders, dip in beaten egg, then 
in cracker dust and put in buttered bag. Seal and cook 
ten minutes in hot oven. 



92 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

German Cabbage. Take two small hard heads of 
red cabbage and cut in slices half an inch thick, discard- 
ing the hard stalk and veins. Put onto a greased wooden 
cookery bowl two rounding tablespoonfuls of melted but- 
ter or vegetable oil, then add the cabbage, sprinkle with a 
level teaspoonful of salt, three tablespoonfuls of vinegar 
and one onion chopped fine. Put in bag, seal, and put 
in oven. Bake one hour with only one burner on after 
the first ten minutes. 

Cabbage Hot Slaw. Chop a small hard head o? 
cabbage fine and salt it lightly. Let stand half an hour 
then put in wooden bowl with two tablespoonfuls of but- 
ter. Put in bag, seal, and cook slowly in the oven for 
twenty minutes. No water is necessary, as the salt will 
draw out the juices of the cabbage so it will have mois- 
ture enough. At the end of twenty minutes take up with 
a hot dish, add a teaspoonful of flour that has been stirred 
in a little cold water, then cooked until thick with a half 
cupful of cream. Lastly, add one tablespoonful of pure 
vinegar and serve at once. 

Carrots. Wash and scrape a half dozen tender 
carrots. Slice thin and season with salt, pepper and a 
good tablespoonful of butter. Add a half cupful good 
stock, put in a well greased bag, seal and cook thirty-five 
minutes. 

Carrot Saute. Scrape and cook young carrots in 
boiling salted water until tender. Cut in halves length- 
wise, roll in fine cracker crumbs, then in egg and cracker 
again, and put in well greased bag. Bake fifteen 
minutes, sprinkle with fine chopped parsley and serve 
very hot. 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 93 

Stuffed Eggplant. Select purple fruit and of small 
size. Halve them, sprinkle them with salt, turn them 
cut side down on a fine sieve, put a heavy plate on them 
and let them drain for an hour. Wipe dry, take from 
each a tablespoonful of the center, chop it fine and for 
each tablespoonful allow the same amount of bread 
crumbs, a teaspoonful of chopped onions, olives and vege- 
table oil, with a little salt and adustingof paprika. Mound 
this dressing on each half, arrange the halves in a but- 
tered bag, pour in water to the depth of an inch, add a 
generous piece of butter, salt and pepper, and place the 
bag in a hot oven; twenty minutes should be sufficiently 
long to cook the eggplant thoroughly. 

Lentil Cutlets. Soak one cupful dried lentils all 
night with a cupful dried lima beans. In the morning 
drain, add two quarts of water, a stalk of celery and half 
an onion sliced. Cook until soft, remove the seasonings 
and rub through a puree sieve. Add one cupful stale 
bread crumbs, one beaten egg, the juice of a half lemon 
and seasonings to taste. Melt a heaping tablespoonful 
of butter in a small saucepan, add to it a tablespoonful 
flour and pour on, when blended, a third of a cup of 
milk. Let the mixture cook until thick and smooth, then 
add to the lentil mixture and set aside to cool. Shape 
into small cutlets, dip in beaten egg, then in fine cracker 
crumb, put in a well buttered bag and bake twenty 
minutes. Serve with a tomato sauce. 

Mushrooms. Choose fine fat musfirooms, cut the 
stem close, peel and wipe delicately with a damp cloth. 
Sprinkle lightly with salt and lay in a well-greased bag 
together with a big tablespoonful of butter rolled in 
flour and a half cupful of rich cream. Seal and cook 
twelve minutes in a hot oven. 



94 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

Baked Onions. Parboil for fifteen minutes Bermuda 
or Spanish onions, chill in cold water, then if very large 
cut in halves, otherwise, cut a little wedge out of the 
hearts and fill the cavity with butter or vegetable oil. 
Put in the well greased bag, adding a little water and 
more butter or oil, seal and cook twenty minutes. 

Stuffed Baked Onions. The next time you have a 
roast leg of lamb or mutton, try baked onions prepared 
in this way as an accompaniment: Take large onions, 
preferably Spanish or Bermudas, peel, cut a slice from 
the top of each, and with a small spoon scoop out about 
half the pulp. Put this in a dish, mix with it an equal 
quantity of bread crumbs, well flavored with chopped 
parsley, sweet marjoram, salt and pepper. Moisten the 
whole lightly with cream and a little melted butter; mix 
well, fill the onion cavities with the stuffing, crown with 
a slice of bacon for a cover, put in a bag and bake one 
hour in a moderate oven. 

Onions With Cheese. Skin large Spanish onions 
and boil until quite soft. Press through a sieve and put 
into a well buttered wooden baking dish. Season with 
salt, pepper and plenty of butter, add a little stock or 
milk, grate a little cheese over them, put in bag and 
bake to a golden brown. 

Parsnips. Scrape and parboil some parsnips. Cut 
in two lengthwise. Season with pepper and salt, roll 
in melted butter, dripping or olive oil. Flour again and 
place in a well-greased paper bag. Seal up and 
bake in a hot oven on a wire rack for half an hour. 
They should be a golden brown. 

Green Peas. Shell the peas, put into a well buttered 
bag with a little salt to season, a little sprig of green mint 
and a half cupful of water. Seal and cook twenty-five 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 05 

minutes. Slit open the bag, pour its contents into a hot 
dish, season well with butter and serve. 

Stuffed Peppers. In preparing peppers for stuffing, 
select those of uniform size, wash and plunge in boiling 
water for about ten minutes; then drop into cold water 
to keep them green; cut off the stem ends and scoop out 
the seeds and inside of the peppers; fill with any of the 
following stuffings or a combination of your own de- 
vising. 

Stuffing No. 1. Wash half a cup of rice; cover with 
boiling water and cook rapidly for ten minutes; then 
turn into a sieve to drain. Peel three large tomatoes, re- 
moving the seeds and cutting the pulp in small pieces. 
When fresh tomatoes are out of season, their equivalent 
in canned may be used. Mix the rice and tomatoes to- 
gether; add two tablespoonfuls of olive oil or melted 
butter and season with salt. Fill the drained peppers with 
the mixture, sprinkling a few buttered crumbs over the 
top and replace the covers. Oil the peppers on the outside^ 
and set m a buttered bag. Turn enough stock into the 
bag to come half way up the sides of the peppers (if you 
have no stock use hot water in which a tablespoonful of 
kitchen bouquet has been dissolved and several slices of 
onion and carrot added), and bake in a moderate oven 
three-quarters of an hour. Rice that has been left over 
from dinner may be used, leaving the tomatoes out and 
seasoning with chopped celery, parsley, salt and pep- 
per. When done, dish on a hot platter and pour a rich 
brown sauce over them, scattering a little minced parsley 
over the top. A wooden cookery dish is advised here. 

Stuffing No. 2. For eight good sized peppers take a 
pint of chopped meat, veal or chicken, or veal mixed with 
sausage, a cupful of soft bread crumbs and a cup of stock, 
gravy or water in which a spoonful of beef extract has 
been dissolved. Season with an even teaspoonful each 



96 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

of salt and pepper and half teaspoonful each summer 
savory, thyme and sage. Mix well, fill the peppers, 
sprinkle fine buttered bread crumbs over them at the end 
where the stuffing is exposed, put in a buttered bag and 
bake until well browned. This will take about a quarter 
of an hour. Serve with chicken or roast beef, and with 
or without a sauce. 

Peppers With Creamed Fish. Parboil the peppers 
ten minutes, then fill with creamed fish of any kind, 
which may be seasoned with a tablespoonful of sherry. 
Then sprinkle with a layer of fine crumbs, dot with 
butter, bag, and brown lightly in a quick oven. Creamed 
carrots, cauliflower, sprouts, and many other vegetables 
may be baked in the pepper cups and served either as a 
vegetable or an entree. Filled with potatoes au gratin 
and browned they are a delicious accompaniment for 
chops and steaks. 

Baked Irish Potatoes. Scrub thoroughly and rinse 
as many good sized potatoes as will be required. Make 
a few slits in them but do not peel. Place in the paper 
bag with a tablespoonful of water, close tightly and 
cook from thirty-five to fifty minutes, according to size. 

Baked Potatoes Without Their Coats or Jackets. 
Select as many potatoes of the same size as desired. 
Peel and let them stand in salted, cold water for ten 
minutes. Then drain without drying and place in a 
greased bag, bacon fat is good for these potatoes and 
cook in a hot oven, without disturbing, for forty-five 
minutes if small, one hour, if large .They will have a 
crisp, brown coat, every part of which can be eaten. 

Potatoes en Surprise. Choose potatoes of smooth 
shape, not too large and of even size. Scrape out from 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 9? 

the top of each a space large enough to hold the yolk of 
an egg. Salt and pepper the nest, drop in a tiny bit of 
butter, then the egg yolk, follow with a thin slice of 
bacon just large enough to cover the egg and set in 
greased paper bag. If necessary to keep them upright 
cut a thin slice from the bottom of each potato, add a 
spoonful of cold water, seal, set in a hot oven and cook 
for thirty minutes. 

Potatoes Farci. A new and very delicious way of 
serving stuffed potatoes is as follows: Wash large po- 
tatoes and bake in bag until nearly done; take from the 
oven and nearly cut off one end, leaving the skin for a 
hinge and a bit of potato for a lid. Pull out the undone 
heart with a fork and in its place lay shavings of smoked 
bacon, peppered and tightly rolled after having been 
laid for an instant on a hot frying pan; close the potato 
and set in the oven to finish cooking. 

Sauer Kraut. Put enough to serve six people in one 
of the largest size wood cookery dishes, salt and sea- 
son to taste, add a half cupful of water, put in bag, seal, 
and bake one hour in moderate oven. 

Waldorf Sauer Kraut. Soak the sauer kraut in 
cold water until just palatably salt. Put into greased 
paper bag on a wooden cookery dish with a little bacon, 
pickled pork or sausage, add a half cupful of hot water 
and cook about twenty minutes. Drain, put in a hot dish 
with or without the meat as desired and serve. When 
boiled sauer kraut is cold it may be chopped and reheated 
in a buttered bag with butter, gravy or a white sauce. 

Sweet Potatoes and Bacon. Peel boiled sweet po- 
tatoes, fasten a slice of bacon around each, using a 
wooden tooth pick to hold in place. Put in buttered bag 
With a spoonful of water, and bake ten minutes. 



98 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

Sweet Potato Straws. Cut potatoes in slices 
lengthwise, peel, then cut into straws. Dip in bacon fat 
or melted butter, put in buttered bag, seal, and cook 
fifteen minutes. Take out on soft paper to absorb any 
grease, dust lightly with salt and serve. 

Sweet Potato en Brochette. Peel and cut in half 
inch, uniform slices. Put on skewers in groups of four, 
place in boiling water and parboil ten minutes. Drain, 
brush over with vegetable oil, sprinkle with brown sugar, 
put in greased bag and bake twenty minutes in moderate 
oven. 

Spinach. Pick over carefully, thoroughly wash, then 
put into a bag, leaving the vegetable quite damp. Add 
a little salt, seal and cook thirty minutes. Before lifting 
the bag from the oven slide a pan under it, and prick the 
bottom of the bag so the water will drain out. Dish, 
adding butter to season and serve. 

Summer Squash in Butter. Cut into narrow strips 
and season with salt and pepper. Put into well greased 
bag, add a generous lump of butter and cook about half 
an hour. 

Stuffed Summer Squash. Boil in lightly salte3 
water until tender. Cut off the top and scoop out the 
inside. Mix well with seasoned and buttered crumbs, 
chopped onion and grated cheese. Fill the shell, sprinkle 
the top with buttered crumbs, put in bag and bake until 
brown. 

Stuffed Tomatoes With Cream. Mix together 
three-quarters of a cupful of cold-chopped chicken or 
veal, three tablespoonfuls of soft bread crumbs, a table- 
spoonful of melted butter, one teaspoonful of chopped 
parsley, half a teaspoonful of salt and quarter teaspoon- 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 99 

ful of paprika. Wash and wipe six medium-sized to- 
matoes, take a small piece from the stem end, carefully 
remove a portion of the pulp, and fill the hole with the 
stuffing; place in a buttered bag and cook for thirty 
minutes in a moderate oven. Remove to a hot platter, 
whip three tablespoon fuls of rich cream, add to it two 
tablespoon fuls of melted butter, and pour a small portion 
over each tomato. 

Turnips. Peel and slice your turnips and put them 
in a well-greased bag with a light seasoning of salt, a 
lump of butter barely dusted with flour, and enough thin 
stock to half cover them. Seal and cook in a moderate 
oven for an hour more or less according to the tender- 
ness of the vegetable. Empty into a hot dish and if not 
rich enough add more butter, and dust with black pepper 
and salt. 

Turnip Balls. Peel fine grained turnips, then cut 
into balls, using a vegetable scoop. Put into a well- 
greased bag with a light seasoning of salt, a little sugar, 
a dusting of pepper, a tablespoonful of butter or vege- 
table oil and a quarter cupful of hot water, seal, and cook 
half an hour until tender, but not brown. Take up, add a 
half cupful hot cream sauce, stir lightly in it, sprinkle 
with minced parsley and serve very hot. 

Stuffed Vine Leaves or Dolmas. Choose tender 
vine leaves and scald them, after which roll a little of the 
following stuffing in each leaf, making it round and firm 
so that the stuffing will not come out when the balls are 
boiled. Chop three onions, put a teacupful of good salad 
oil in a stewing-pan, and, when it is boiling hot, throw 
in the chopped onion. As soon as this begins to cook, add 
a small cupful of Carolina rice, some chopped parsley 
and mint, salt and pepper and a tablespoonful of currants 



100 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

and mix well on the fire till the rice begins to brown. 
Then take a vine leaf in your left hand and wrong side 
upward and put a little of this prepared rice into it. Put 
some of the coarse vine leaves at the bottom of the paper 
bag and arrange each little ball beside its neighbor, 
packing them rather tightly. When this is done, put in 
sufficient water just to cover the dolmas, add a little oil, 
seal the bag and bake till the rice is soft and the water is 
all absorbed. This is a very delicate and characteristic 
dish, but will be a failure if the vine leaves are not 
tender or the oil is rancid. Serve with lemon. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 
;WARM BREADS, BISCUITS, MUFFINS, ETC. 

Baking Powder Bread. SIFT together, five times 
over, four quarts of flour, six rounded teaspoonfuls bak- 
ing powder and four level teaspoonfuls salt. Have the 
oven quite hot. Add to the sifted flour enough milk and 
water in nearly equal proportions, to make a moist, not 
wet, dough, stiff enough to handle, then divide into four 
portions, mould lightly into shape and put into brick 
shaped pans. Brush over the tops with milk, put into 
bags and bake an hour. 

Bannocks. Sift together one pint of corn meal, one 
tablespoonful of sugar and a teaspoonful of salt. Pour 
over the mixture enough milk or milk and water to 
moisten. Let stand until cool, then add three well-beaten 
eggs, spread half an inch thick in well-greased bag. 
Seal and bake in hot oven. Cut into squares, split and 
serve hot and well-buttered. 

Baking Powder Biscuits. Sift together three times 
over one quart of flour, two rounded teaspoonfuls baking 
powder, and a teaspoonful of salt. Rub in with the tips 
of the fingers one rounding tablespoonful vegetable 
shortening or butter, and when the flour feels mealy, add 
slowly a cup and a half of milk or milk and water mixed. 
Mix lightly with little handling, turn out on board, roll 
into a sheet half an inch in thickness, stamp out with 

101 



102 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

small round cutter and lay in greased bag. Brush the top 
of each biscuit with milk. Seal and bake twenty minutes 
in a very hot oven. 

Egg Biscuits. To make these delicious biscuits, beat 
one egg until light, then mix with it two-thirds of a cup- 
ful of milk. Add to one pint of flour a heaping tea- 
spoonful baking powder and one-half teaspoonful salt, 
and sift. Blend with the mixture one tablespoonful of 
butter and two tablespoonfuls of sugar. Add the egg 
mixture, make into a dough and knead lightly. Roll into 
a sheet a quarter of an inch thick, stamp out with a round 
cutter, brush over the top of each biscuit with cream, 
prick with a fork, bag, and bake in a hot ove&. 

Maple Biscuits. Make a very rich baking powder 
biscuit dough and roll out to half the thickness of biscuits, 
cut out with a small cutter, sprinkle grated maple sugar 
over the tops of half of them, moisten the under sides of 
the others and lay them on top of the sugared ones, 
pressing them on well. Lay close together in a bag, 
brush over with milk or melted butter, seal and bake in a 
quick oven. 

Nut Biscuits. Sift together two cupfuls flour, one- 
half teaspoonful of salt, and a teaspoonful and a half of 
baking powder. 

Rub in one heaping tablespoonful of butter or vegetable 
shortening, and add one cupful of nuts, pecans, hickory 
or English walnuts chopped and a tablespoonful of sugar. 
Mix to a soft dough with milk or milk and water, mould 
with the hands into small balls, place in a greased bag, 
brush each biscuit over with milk or melted butter, put a 
pinch of chopped nuts on each, seal and bake in a hot 
oven. 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 103 

Raisin Biscuits. These are excellent for home lunch- 
eon or the children's school or picnic lunch. Sift 
together one quart of flour, a half teaspoonful of salt and 
two heaping teaspoon fuls of baking powder. Work into 
the sifted flour a cupful of shortening, then add a cupful 
each seedless raisins and milk. Mix well and roll out on 
the molding board. Cut in small round biscuits, bag, 
and bake in a quick oven. 

Hot Cross Buns. Sift together one quart of pastry- 
flour, three teaspoonfuls of baking powder and a tea- 
spoonful of salt. Rub into the flour a piece of butter the 
size of an egg. Mix together a cupful each of milk and 
water and add one cupful of sugar. Stir into the flour, 
add two beaten eggs, and mix soft. Cut into small bis- 
cuits, make the cross on the top of each, bag, and bake 
in a very hot oven. Sift powdered sugar over them as 
soon as taken from the bag. A half cupful chopped 
raisins or currants may be added to the dough if de- 
sired. 

Warmed Over Breads. It is a trick worth knowing 
that cold biscuit, rolls, gems and the like can be brushed 
over with water, put in a greased paper bag, sealed and 
set in the oven for eight minutes to emerge as fresh as 
though just newly baked. 



CHAPTER XIX. 
CAKES. 

CAKES baked in paper bags will be as brown as if 
baked without the bag and will retain their moisture in- 
finitely better; therefore plain loaf cakes and all fruit 
cakes are greatly improved by the paper bag cooking. 
While drop cakes, oatmeal cookies and the like can be 
baked directly on the bottom of the bag, better results 
as far as form is concerned, will come from using very 
thin tin moulds or baking sheets or paper souffle cases. 
Before putting a cake in the oven, particularly if it be a 
fruit cake, it will be found advisable to set on the bot- 
tom of the oven, a shallow pan with a little water in it. 
Put in the bag, close the oven door and leave ten min- 
utes with the gas on, then reduce the heat at least one- 
half. Bag cooking prevents cake crusting over and there- 
by permits it to rise to its full height. It also saves from 
burning. Midway in the baking the position of cakes can 
be changed, those on the grid itself set low on the broiler 
and vice versa so all will cook evenly. To test whether 
the cake is done or no, make a hole in the bag top and 
thrust in a clean straw or thin knife blade. If it comes 
out dry with no stickiness, the cake is done. 

Cheese Cakes. These are a modern adaptation of the 
old " flawns," a favorite Eastertide cake. As formerly 
made, there was a tedious separation of curds and whey ; 
but the housewife of today eliminates that by taking 



STANDARD PAPER; BAG COOKERY 105 

a Neufchatel or cream cheese as the foundation. This is 
crumbled fine and added to the other ingredients, allow- 
ing to each Neufchatel cheese, one small cupful of sugar, 
the grated rind and half the juice of one lemon, a half 
cupful each sifted cracker crumbs and currants, one 
tablespoonful melted butter, half a nutmeg grated, half 
a cupful of cream or rich milk, a saltspoonful of salt and 
four eggs. Crumble the cheese and crackers together, 
beat the eggs and add, together with sugar, salt and 
spices. Next add the butter and cream and lastly the 
currants, lemon juice and rind. Mix thoroughly and fill 
patty tins lined with puff paste. Ornament the top with 
currants and slender strips of citron, put in buttered 
bag. Seal and bake in a quick oven. 

Cinnamon Cake. Cream one-quarter cup of butter 
and one cup of sugar, add one-half cup of milk, one well 
beaten egg, one and three-quarters cups of flour sifted 
twice with three even teaspoons of baking powder, and 
pour in a shallow pan to make a sheet rather than a loaf. 
Just before setting the cake into the oven sprinkle cinna- 
mon and granulated sugar over the top. Put into a bag. 
Seal and bake twenty minutes. Serve fresh and cut in 
squares. 

English Fairy Cakes. Sift together six ounces of 
flour and a half teaspoonful of baking powder. Grate a 
lemon rind and add to the sifted flour together with three 
ounces chopped candied cherries. Beat to a cream four 
ounces of butter and four of sugar, then add three eggs 
one at a time, beating thoroughly. Add the flour and 
cherry mixture and stir lightly. Have ready some but- 
tered patty-tins, half fill with the batter, bag, and bake 
in a moderate oven twenty minutes. 



106 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

Fruit Cookies. One cupful and one-half of sugar, 
either white or brown, one cupful of butter and lard or 
vegetable shortening, (half and half is good) three 
tablespoonfuls of molasses, the same amount of hot 
water, three eggs, one cupful of raisins, one teaspoonful 
each of soda (dissolved in hot water), ginger and cinna- 
mon, a light sprinkling of cloves, and flour to make very 
stiff. Half a cupful or more of chopped nut meats 
makes a nice addition, but is not necessary. 

Cream the sugar and shortening, as for cake, then add 
eggs well beaten, molasses and water, spices and soda, 
then flour, and lastly fruit. When the batter will take 
up no more flour, lift it up by teaspoonfuls, pat it flat and 
in shape in the baking pan, which must be well buttered, 
put in bag, and bake in fairly hot oven, being careful not 
to scorch. 

This will be found much easier than rolling the dough 
on a board, and will make about forty cookies. 

Mrs. Godfrey's Soft Gingerbread. In a sympo- 
sium on gingerbreads held one Summer afternoon at Sun- 
apee Inn, New Hampshire, this was given as an example 
of a most delicate inexpensive cake. Add to one cupful 
molasses, one cupful softened butter or lard, filling up 
the cup in which it is measured with boiling water. Add 
two even teaspoonfuls soda, a small teaspoonful of gin- 
ger, a pinch of salt, one beaten egg, and two heaping cup- 
fuls sifted flour. Beat lightly (not too much lest it 
make the ginger bread light colored), put in bag and 
bake in a moderate oven. 

Good Friday Cake. This is a simple tea cake, not 
very sweet, and is served hot or cold as preferred. To 
make it, beat to a cream a scant cupful of butter and a 
quarter cupful of sugar. Add a teaspoonful of the 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 107 

grated yellow rind of lemon, a half teaspoonful of lemon 
juice, a pound of flour and enough water to make a stiff 
paste. Divide the dough into two equal parts and roll 
into large, round cakes about the size of an ordinary pie 
tin. Mark the edges with a "jigger " into some fancy 
design, or simply pinch with the fingers. Cut each cake 
into quarters, brush over with the white of an egg, lay 
a strip of candied lemon peel on each, sprinkle with 
granulated sugar put in bag, and bake. 

German Honey Cakes. These are fine for lunch- 
eon or the kaffee klatch. Put into a saucepan two cupfuls 
strained honey and one cupful sugar. Warm, add a cup- 
ful of butter and a half tablespoonful soda dissolved in a 
little warm water. Add a half cupful caraway seed and 
flour to roll. Roll into a rather thick sheet, mark into 
squares, put in bag, and bake. When done cut in small 
cakes. 

Pecan Kisses. Into the whites of six eggs put four- 
teen little more than level tablespoonfuls white sugar and 
beat long and thoroughly until stiff enough to stand 
alone. Have ready a small cup pecan kernels having 
them in as perfect halves as possible. Beat in lightly, 
drop in greased baking sheet, put in bag. Seal and bake 
in a moderate oven. 

Mrs. Kelder's Loaf Cake. Beat to a cream one and 
one-half cupfuls sugar and one-half cupful of butter. 
Add the yolks of three eggs beaten until light and thin. 
Add two and one-half cupfuls flour measured after sifting 
with two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Lastly 
fold in the stiffly whipped whites of three eggs and flavor 
to taste. Put in light tin, set in paper bag. Seal and 
bake thirty-five minutes. 



108 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

Hickory Nut Macaroons. To one whole egg beaten 
light, add one cup sugar and beat well. Add two table- 
spoonfuls flour and one cup nut meats and lastly fold in 
the stiffly whipped whites of three eggs. Drop by 
spoonsfuls into a well greased bag and bake in a moder- 
ate oven ten or twelve minutes. 

Walnut Macaroons. One and one-half cupfuls of 
sugar, one-third cup of butter, three eggs, three cups of 
flour, one teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in water, one 
teaspoonful of cloves, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, one 
cup of English walnut meats, one cup of chopped dates. 
Do not roll the mixture as in ordinary cookies, but drop 
into a greased bag with a spoon. Seal and bake slowly 
for thirty minutes. 

Maple Sugar Cake. Add to one cup maple syrup 
one beaten egg, a pinch of salt, one cup of thick, sour 
cream, into which has been stirred a teaspoonful (scant) 
of soda, a teaspoonful of ginger and flour to make a thin 
batter. Bake in a bag and cut in squares. 

Molasses Coffee Cake. Then right here let me give 
you a recipe for a fruit cake or gingerbread with fruit 
as you may elect to call it. Cream together one cupful 
of sugar and three- fourths cup of butter. Add one cupful 
black molasses, one cupful strong coffee with a teaspoon- 
ful of soda dissolved in it, four beaten eggs, one tea- 
spoonful each cinnamon and nutmeg, three-fourths tea- 
spoonful cloves, one half pound shredded citron and 
three cupfuls sifted flour. Do not beat longer than 
necessary. Put in tin, then in bag, and bake in a slow 
oven. 

Nut Cake. To make a light, delicious cake, cream 
together one cup of sugar and five tablespoons of melted 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 109 

butter. Into this beat two well beaten eggs, a pinch of 
salt and a cup of milk. Stir into this two heaping cupfuls 
of flour, sifted with two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking 
powder. After this is well beaten, stir in three-quarters 
of a cup of chopped walnuts. Bake in square cake tin 
in bag. Ice when cold with plain pulverized sugar icing. 
Cut in squares, placing a piece of walnut meat on each 
square. 

Oatmeal Cakes. Beat to a cream three- fourths cup- 
ful vegetable shortening or butter and a cupful and a 
half of brown sugar. Dissolve one teaspoonful of soda 
in one cupful of boiling water and add to butter and 
sugar mixture. Mix together two cupfuls of dry oatmeal, 
two cupfuls of flour and a half teaspoonful of salt and 
add to the other ingredients. Flavor to taste. Lastly add 
two well beaten eggs and drop from spoon into greased 
bag or flat tin and place in bag. Seal and bake in mod- 
erate oven about fifteen minutes. 

German Peach Cake. Make a rich baking powder 
biscuit dough and roll out in sheets to fit a long biscuit 
pan. It should not be more than a half-inch thick. 
Brush the top with butter and cover with slices of peach 
arranged in symmetrical overlapping rows, or half 
peaches with the rounded side up. Sprinkle generously 
with sugar, cover with another tin to prevent the fruit 
from becoming mushy or hardened, put in bag and bake 
about half an hour in a hot oven. This is a good substi- 
tute for peach pie. 

Pork Cake. This is an old New England dish that 
has been relegated to the background these many years, 
but is lately coming to the fore. A gray haired New 
York physician, dining at my house the other night, de- 
clared that his old Connecticut aunt's pork cake was one 



110 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

of the dearest remembered gustatorial delights of his 
boyhood. 

To make it chop one pound of fat pork fine. Pour 
over it a pint of boiling water, then stir in three cupfuls 
brown sugar, one pound of seeded raisins, eight cupfuls 
of flour and two rounding teaspoonfuls of soda dissolved 
in a little water. Add a teaspoonful of cinnamon, a half 
teaspoon ful cloves and nutmeg, mix thoroughly and bake 
in a slow oven like fruit cake. If preferred, two beaten 
eggs may be added in which case less flour will be re- 
quired. 

Potato Chocolate Cake. To two cupfuls of sugar 
and two-thirds cup butter beaten to a cream, add yolks of 
four eggs beaten until lemon colored and light and a half 
cupful of sweet milk. Next add a teaspoonful of soda dis- 
solved in two tablespoonfuls of hot water, one cup mash- 
ed potato, two cups of flour, and four squares of chocolate 
melted, one cup chopped walnuts, a teaspoonful of van- 
illa. Lastly fold in the stiffly beaten whites of four eggs. 
This may be baked either in a large loaf or in layers in 
a paper bag. 

Potato Caramel Cake. Beat to a ceram two-thirds 
cup of butter and two cups of sugar, add the yolks of 
four eggs beaten until light and mix with a half cup of 
sweet milk and one cup mashed potato. Add two squares 
of bitter chocolate melted, one-half teaspoonful nutmeg, 
and two cups flour sifted with two teaspoonfuls baking 
powder. Fold in whites of four eggs beaten stiff, a cupful 
of nut meats, preferably English walnuts, chopped. Bake 
slowly for about an hour in a gingerbread tin in paper 
bag, making the cake an inch and a half or two inches 
thick; or else in layer tins together with white icing 
This will make four layers. 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 111 

Auburn Pound Cake. Beat to a cream three- 
fourths pounds of butter and one pound fine granulated 
sugar. Add the yolks of nine eggs beaten light and one 
pound flour measured after sifting and then sifted again 
with a teaspoonful and a half of baking powder. Fold 
in the stiffly whipped whites and flavor with vanilla, al- 
mond or the grated rind and juice of a lemon or a wine 
glass of sherry. Pour into well buttered thin tin mould 
and seal in bags. Bake an hour and a quarter or an hour 
and a half in a moderate oven. 

Raisin Nut Cakes. For raisin nut cakes for after- 
noon tea, beat six eggs lightly, beating the whites and 
with an even teaspoon of soda, one teaspoon of 
sugar creamed with a cupful of butter, a cupful and a 
half of milk and three cupfuls and a half of flour. Add a 
cupful of chopped walnuts, two pounds of chopped rais- 
ins, a wineglass of brandy, two teaspoonfuls of baking 
powder and spice to taste. Make into small cakes, put on 
tin in bag and bake in a moderate oven. 

Sour Cream Cake.- Beat together one cup of pow- 
dered sugar and one cup of sour cream, add two eggs 
beaten light, one and one-half cups of flour sifted twice 
with an even teaspoon of soda twice, one teaspoon of 
vanilla and one cup of seeded and cut raisins rolled light- 
ly in flour. Beat to make the batter creamy and bake at 
once in a rather shallow pan sealed in a paper bag. 



CHAPTER XX. 
FRUITS. 

Baked Apples. WASH, but do not peel; cut out 
specks and bruises, core, fill the bottom of the core-space 
with a bit of butter, over which pile sugar and add a 
dusting of cinnamon. A clove stuck in the side may take 
the place of the cinnamon. Seal inside a well-greased 
bag and bake eighteen to twenty minutes in a fairly hot 
oven. Serve hot with sugar and cream or a hard sauce. 

Baked Apple Dumplings. Make a regular short- 
cake crust, using one pint of flour, two teaspoonfuls 
baking powder and a saltspoonful of salt, sifted together 
three times, one-quarter cup butter rubbed in with the 
tips of the fingers, and one egg beaten and mixed with 
three-quarters cup milk. Roll out and cut in five-inch 
squares. Have ready three large apples, peeled, cored 
and halved and lay each piece on a square of the paste. 
Fold the pastry over each apple like a blanket, lapping 
the four corners at the top and pressing them down firm- 
ly. Turn the dumplings upside down in a well-buttered 
bag, dot with bits of butter and sprinkle with sugar. Set 
the bag in a quick oven and bake to a russet brown. 
This will take about half an hour. Serve with any 
sweet sauce, or rich, sweet cream. 

Cold Baked Apples With Rum. Peel, core and 
bake the apples in a buttered bag, with a teaspoonful of 
sugar to each apple. Put in the serving dish, and while 

112 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY. 113 

still very hot pour over each a dessertspoonful of rum. 
Let cool and serve with cake or crisped water biscuit. 

Cinnamon Apples. Peel, core and quarter six good 
cooking apples, preferably greenings. Melt a table 
spoonful of butter in a warm bowl and stir the apples in 
it until coated with the butter. Mix a teaspoonful of 
ground cinnamon with a half cup of granulated sugar, and 
stir into the apples. Have a paper bag thoroughly but- 
tered and put the apples in it. Rinse out the bowl with 
a cup of hot water, add it to the apples, seal carefully, 
place on a broiler which rests on a pie plate and bake in a 
hot oven fifteen minutes. Half a pint of whipped cream 
over the apples when served is an addition, but they are 
delicious, cooked in this way, without it. 

Apples Stuffed With Figs. Steam tender as many 
figs as you desire, chop into dice and roll each piece in 
powdered sugar seasoned with cinnamon. Core large, 
tart apples and fill the cavities with the figs. Bag and 
bake in a hot oven, adding a little hot water. When ten- 
der, remove carefully to the serving dish and pour over 
them a syrup made by boiling a half cup of sugar with 
an equal quantity of water. Flavor to taste and pour over 
the apples. Serve cold with whipped or plain cream. 

Baked Apples and Nuts. For a half dozen large 
apples a good three-fourths cup of nut meats, butternuts, 
black walnuts or hickory nuts will be required. Chop 
the meats fine and add a half cup of sugar. Core the 
apples and fill the centres with the nuts and sugar. Put 
in a rather deep pan, with a cupful of boiling water add- 
ed, bag and bake. When tender remove carefully, place 
in a pretty dish, pour the juice over the apples, and 
crown with whipped cream or a meringue made from the 
whites of two eggs. 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

Raisin Apples. A simple dessert enjoyed by the 
children consists of apples, cored and each cavity filled 
with sugar, nutmeg, a bit of butter and two or three 
raisins. Add one cupful of hot water, put in bag and 
bake in a slow oven. This may be varied occasionally 
by placing a meringue on the top of each apple when 
done, and cooking in a slow oven for seven minutes 
longer. Serve cold. 

Baked Apple Sauce. Peel and core firm apples of 
good flavor. Stick three cloves in each and put bits of 
mace and cinnamon in the core spaces. Put them in a 
well buttered bag with two heaping cupfuls of sugar and 
a half cupful of water. Cook thirty minutes. Have the 
oven very hot at first, but slack heat after seven minutes. 
Lemon juice instead of water makes a richer flavored 
sauce. In that case add a half cupful more sugar at the 
outset. 

Baked Bananas. Peel and remove coarse threads, 
cut the pulp in halves lengthwise, dust with sugar and 
sprinkle with lemon juice, put in buttered bag and bake 
fifteen minutes, or roll the bananas in hot marmalade, 
then bake. 

Stuffed Dates. Select large, fine fruit, wash quick- 
ly and remove the pit. Put into the cavity a bit of crys- 
tallized ginger or citron, a nut or little candied peel, roll 
in confectioner's sugar and lay in lightly buttered bag 
left open at one end. Put in coolish oven to harden. 

Baked Gooseberries. Put into a greased bag a pint 
of " topped and tailed " gooseberries, add a cupful each 
sugar and water, seal and cook twenty minutes. 

Baked Peaches. Pour boiling water over the fruit, 
then rub off the skins and place in buttered bag without 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 115 

removing the pits. Add a teaspoonful of water for each 
peach, seal and bake about twenty minutes in a hot oven. 
When done, sweeten to taste and set aside to chill before 
using. Serve with sweet cream. 

Baked Pears. Select ripe, fine-flavored fruit, snip 
out the blossom end and stick in a clove. If the skin is 
thin, do not peel., but if tough, remove, put in buttered 
bag with a little water, seal and cook from fifteen to 
thirty minutes according to the quality of the fruit. 

Baked Plums. Put in buttered bag with a little 
water and cook twenty or twenty-five minutes. Sweeten 
to taste when done. 

Baked Quinces. Wash, core and peel, fill the cen- 
ters with sugar and put in greased bag with two table- 
spoonfuls of water allowed for each quince. Seal and 
bake slowly for an hour, until the quince is tender but 
not mushy. Serve with the quince syrup and a spoonful 
of whipped cream on top of each quince. 

Baked Raisins. Remove stems, clean well, put in a 
colander and wash thoroughly. Put in buttered bag with 
a cupful of water for each cupful of raisins. Seal and 
cook slowly for half an hour. A mixture of dried apri- 
cots, prunes and cherries is nice with the raisins, but 
these fruits need long soaking in cold water before add- 
ing to the raisins and cooking. 

Chestnut Patties. Beat together, until smooth, one 
egg and one cupful of pulverized sugar. Add one cup- 
ful of chestnut meats that have been put through a nut 
grinder, five tablespoonfuls of flour and one teaspoonful 
of baking powder. Beat lightly, then drop by spoonfuls 
on buttered tins. Dust with pulverized sugar and cinna- 
mon. Put in bag and bake in a quick oven. 



CAPTER XXI. 
PASTRY. 

USE tin or agate pie plates for paper bag cookery. 
Line with a delicate crust, and prick the bottom with a 
fork. Turn in whatever filling you elect to have, and 
put on top crust or the latticed bars. Cut a cross in the 
center of a solid crust and turn back the points or prick 
with a fork. Any pie can be baked in a paper bag with 
advantage. Cook two pies at once, shifting midway in 
the cooking from the upper to the lower shelves and vice 
versa. Have the oven hot when the pies go in, but re- 
duce the heat as soon as the bag corners turn brown. 
Average pies require about half an hour for the baking. 

Plain Pie Crust. For each pie allow a heaping cup- 
ful of pastry flour and sift into a cold bowl with a half 
teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of baking pow- 
der. Have ready a quarter cupful of butter that has 
been washed in cold water, then chilled on the ice. Work 
into the sifted flour a quarter cupful of lard or 
vegetable shortening, using the tips of the fingers 
or a case knife. As soon as the flour begins 
to feel like coarse meal, moisten to a dough with 
cold water. Add a little at a time, handling the crust as 
lightly as possible. It will take about a quarter of a 
cupful of water to a heaping cupful of flour. Toss on a 
smooth board, dredged lightly with flour, pat and roll a 
quarter of an inch in thickness, keeping the sheet of 
paste a little wider than it is long. Now place the chilled 

116 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 117 

butter on the center of the lower half of the paste and 
cover by folding the upper part of the sheet over it. 
Press the edges together so as to inclose as much air as 
possible. Fold the right side of the paste over the in- 
closed butter and the left side under. Turn the paste 
half way around, pat into shape and roll out lightly hav- 
ing the sheet of paste longer than it is wide, and lifting 
often to prevent its sticking to the board. Dredge slight- 
ly with flour when necessary. Fold again so as to make 
three layers, divide in halves, pat and roll out the one in- 
tended for the lower crust having it a little larger than 
the pie plate, to allow for shrinkage. Fold back the 
rolled out crust and readjust in the pie tin letting it 
come well up over the edge, then pressing back. Turn 
in the filling then roll out the upper crust. When this 
reaches the required size, fold over and perforate the 
center, piercing with a fork or using a knife to make anjr 
pattern desired, and place in position over the pie. 

Apple Pie. Peel and slice thin, tart, well flavored 
apples. Put in crust, sprinkle with sugar, dust with 
cinnamon or nutmeg, cover with latticed or full crust, 
put in bag, and bake half an hour in a steady oven. 

A New Apple Pie. Peel and core about eight or ten 
apples or as many as are wanted. Make a rich pastry 
dough and cut in strips about two inches wide. Wind a 
strip around each apple, but do not cover it. Fill the 
center of each apple with butter, sugar and water. 
Sprinkle with nutmeg, put in bag, then in the oven and 
bake. Serve with or without cream. 

Deep Apple Pie With Cream Cheese. Bake a 
nice apple pie about three-quarters of an hour before 
dinner. Have a small cream cheese pressed through a 
ricer and mixed with a cup of whipped cream and a little 



118 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

salt. Press through a pastry tube or tin funnel on top 
of the pie in a pattern, and serve warm for dessert. 
The cheese and cream combination may also be used on 
a two crust apple pie. 

Cranberry Pie. Line a rather deep pie plate with 
a plain crust. Put on a border of richer paste, fill with 
cranberries cooked according to directions for stewed 
cranberries, and put strips of crust over the top, making 
squares or diamonds as preferred. Put in bag and bake. 

Cranberry and Raisin Pie. Allow to each pie a 
cup and a half cranberries and a half cup of raisins. The 
latter should be seeded and the berries washed and cut 
in two. Mix with them a cup of sugar, a tablespoon of 
flour, and a teaspoonful of butter. Fill a pie plate lined 
with crust, heaping up slightly in the middle. Cover 
with an upper crust, bag, and bake in a hot oven. 

Lemon Pie. Beat the yolks of three eggs lightly, add 
one cup of sugar slowly and then the juice and grated 
yellow rind of one lemon. Beat hard and stir in two 
even tablespoons of flour made smooth in one cup of 
milk. Turn into a paste lined plate and bake about half 
an hour in a paper bag. Cool partly and cover with the 
whites of three eggs beaten stiff with six even table- 
spoons of powdered sugar. Pile roughly and set in a 
very cool oven to become firm. 

Mince Pie. A simple rule for making mince meat by 
measure, calls for a pint bowl of well cooked beef chop- 
ped to the finest mince and measured after chopping, two 
bowls of tart apples chopped into coarse bits and a half 
bowl chopped suet. Add to this a pound of seeded 
raisins, also chopped, a pound of currants, a quarter of 
a pound of citron cut in thin slices, a tablespoonful each 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 119 

of powdered cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg. Use enough 
sweet cider to make moist, then add a bowl of sugar and 
an even teaspoonful salt. Scald well and put away in 
a stone jar. When you make the pies add a few whole 
raisins, chopped nut meats or any jelly you have on 
hand. 

When mince pie is to be reheated for dinner and 
served hot, grated cheese may be sprinkled over the top 
just before setting it in the oven to .heat. 

Mock Mince Pie. To four quarts green tomatoes, 
chopped fine, allow three pounds brown sugar, the juice 
of two lemons and their yellow rind, grated, a table- 
spoonful each cinnamon, allspice and salt, half a tea- 
spoonful cloves and a tablespoonful of grated nutmeg. 
Put into a porcelain lined kettle and simmer gently until 
reduced one half in bulk. Now add two pounds and one- 
half seeded raisins, or part raisins and part currants or 
chopped prunes and a cup of boiled cider. Then cook an 
hour or two longer until thick. Bake as any mince pie. 

Pecan Pie With One Crust. One cup of sugar, 
three eggs, one cup of sweet cream, one cup of pecans 
well mashed. Beat very light, pour into two pie pans 
that are lined with good rich paste, put in bag and bake. 

Real Old Fashioned Pumpkin Pie. If you are fortu- 
nate enough to get a genuine old fashioned field pump- 
kin, you may be thankful. If forbidden that privilege, 
the canned pumpkin or the dried pumpkin flour, or again 
a Hubbard squash or a big yellow one, may be so man- 
ipulated as to deceive even a connoisseur on pumpkin 
pies, into thinking he has the very kind that " Mother 
used to make," and giving thanks accordingly. If the 
field pumpkin is yours, wash, cut up without peeling, 
scrape out all the wooly fiber, then put over the fire on 



120 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

the back of the stove. Add just a little water to keep 
it from sticking on the bottom, cover closely and steam 
gently for six or eight hours. At the end of this time 
the pumpkin pulp should be thoroughly cooked in its own 
juices. Take up, cool a little, then pull off the skin with 
a sharp knife. Press through a sieve and let it stand 
overnight in a press so as to remove the superfluous 
liquid, which should be saved to use in making Boston 
brown bread. When ready to bake, measure the pulp 
and to every five cupfuls allow one teaspoonful of salt, 
half a grated nutmeg, a tablespoonful of mace, two tea- 
spoonfuls of ginger and a large cupful of sugar. Beat 
four eggs and stir into the pumpkin pulp, together with 
four cupfuls of sweet milk and a half cupful cream. 
Beat well and taste to see if it is sweet enough. Turn 
into plates lined with good pastry, bag, and bake three- 
quarters of an hour until a golden brown and firm in the 
center. Serve with good American cheese. Some old- 
fashioned cooks like their pumpkin pies flavored with a 
little rose water. 

In making pies of the canned pumpkin, observe the 
same proportions. If the pumpkin flour is used, spread 
on a tin and brown before adding the milk. 

The English fashion of baking pumpkin as well as 
mince pies in individual shells, is preferred by many 
who do not feel the compelling force of tradition. A 
new wrinkle for the woman who holds to her pumpkin 
pie for Thanksgiving, but wishes to present it in very 
modern guise is to serve it with cottage cheese balls and 
strained honey. The combination of flavors is certainly 
a most happy one. The cheese balls are piled in a pretty 
dish and the honey served from a glass bowl. 

Individual English Apple Tart. Peel and core tart 
apples, put into a large saucepan, cover with boiling 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 121 

water, stew gently until the apples are tender but un- 
broken. Sweeten to taste. Line the edges of a deep 
pie tin with crust, then fill the center of the dish with ap- 
ples, dropping into the center of each a spoonful of 
orange marmalade. Cover the top of the dish with 
strips of pastry arranged lattice fashion, bag, and bake 
quickly until brown. Serve hot. 

Colonial Pumpkin Tartlets. To one quart of 
cooked and sifted pumpkin add one tablespoonful each 
of butter and flour, six well beaten eggs, a cupful of 
sugar, a quarter teaspoonful each of mace and nutmeg, 
four teaspoonfuls of ginger and one gill of milk. Bake 
in patty-pans lined with rich flaky crust, set in paper bag. 
Remove from pans before serving. A touch of novelty 
is given by topping each tartlet with a generous portion 
of maple syrup or strained honey. 

TURNOVERS. 

Apple and Cheese Turnovers. Make a crust, 
using six heaping tablespoonfuls of flour, three table- 
spoonfuls lard and butter, half and half, a saltspoonful 
of salt and just enough water to roll out. Mark out into 
squares of about four inches. Have ready some nice tart 
apples sliced fine, and also cheese sliced very thin. Fill 
each one with apples, sprinkle sugar and cinnamon over 
the apple, put a tiny piece of butter on top, then turn 
up the edges of the crust, overlapping the upper side 
about two inches. Place in a buttered bag, and having wet 
the edges of the crust with milk, bake to a nice brown. 
Remove from the oven, raise up the upper crust, put in 
the cheese, re-cover, turn a tin over the turnovers and 
stand in the oven again for ten minutes, leaving the oven 
door open. This softens the cheese. Eat while warm. 
Caraway seeds may be used in place of cinnamon if de- 



122 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

sired. The turnovers may be eaten plain with cream or 
with a liquid sauce as preferred. 

Apricot or Plum Jam Turnovers. Make a good 
crust and roll out twice. Mark a square and spread 
thickly with jam. Fold over two sides first and pinch 
together, then fold over the other two sides in the same 
way. Brush over with milk and sprinkle with brown 
sugar. Put into well greased bag and bake thirty 
minutes. 

Mince Turnovers. Make the original round of 
paste about four inches across. Put a tablespoonful of 
mince meat upon it, fold over very neatly and pinch the 
edges together. Flatten and cook inside a buttered bag. 



CHAPTER XXI. 
SHORT CAKES 

Banana Short Cake. BEAT to a cream one-half cup- 
ful butter and one of sugar. Add two well-beaten eggs, 
a pinch of salt and a teaspoonful of baking powder sifted 
with a pint of flour. Flavor with vanilla. Mix lightly 
and roll out into a sheet about half an inch thick. Cut 
into rounds about four inches in diameter, and having 
brushed each one over with melted butter, pile on top of 
each other and put in buttered bag. Bake twelve 
minutes, separate, and spread between the layers a thick 
filling of sliced bananas flavored with lemon juice and 
sweetened to taste. Serve with Foamy Sauce. 

Peach Short Cake. Use for this either fresh peaches 
or canned and make in one large short cake or individual 
ones which are really nicer in paper bag cookery. For 
the latter sift together a pint and a half of flour, two 
tablespoonfuls of salt. Rub in with the tips of the 
fingers two tablespoonfuls of butter, then add one beaten 
egg and milk to make a soft dough. Cut out like biscuit, 
bag and bake in a quick oven. When baked, split in two, 
spread lightly with butter and fill with the sweetened 
peaches and whipped cream, a layer of peaches first and 
cream on top. Cover the little short cakes in the same 
way, piling up the whipped cream on top. 

123 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

Rhubarb Short Cake. Stew rhubarb and sweeten 
to taste. Make a short cake batter, using one-quarter 
cupful of butter and a half cupful sugar creamed to- 
gether, one egg well beaten, one quarter cupful sweet 
milk and one cupful of flour sifted with one teaspoonful 
of baking powder. Make in two large layers or indi- 
vidual ones, and bake in paper bag. When done, spread 
with the rhubarb filling and serve with whipped cream 
or a cream sauce. 

Old Fashioned Strawberry Short Cake. The real 
old-fashioned strawberry short cake may be made with 
sour cream or rich sour milk and soda, or sweet milk and 
baking powder. Sometimes an egg is added and a 
tablespoon ful of sugar, but it is a far cry from the 
French strawberry short cake of hotels and restaurants 
which is really a cake, either sponge or layer, with whole 
berries between the layers and thick whipped cream or a 
meringue on top. To make the genuine old-fashioned 
sour milk biscuit short cake, which is really more tender 
than that made with sweet milk, put four cups sifted 
pastry flour in a mixing bowl with a half teaspoonful of 
salt and mix well. Add three tablespoonfuls of butter 
and chop fine, using a silver knife. Dissolve a level 
teaspoonful of soda in a little hot water and stir into a 
large cupful of sour cream or rich sour milk. When it 
stops "purring" add a tablespoonful of sugar and one 
well beaten egg to the milk and turn into the sifted flour. 
Mix well together with a spatula or flexible knife, 
handling as little as possible, then turn out on to a floured 
board. The dough should be soft enough to roll easily. 
Divide and roll lightly and quickly into two thin sheets. 
These may be baked separately in well greased round 
tins in a paper bag or laid one on top of the other with 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 125 

a thin coating of butter between and baked in one bag. 
Bake in a very hot oven. When done, separate. Have 
ready a quart of ripe berries washed, crushed and su- 
gared. This should have been done before beginning 
the dough, so that the sugar will have time to draw out 
the rich juice of the berries. Cover the lower half of 
the short cake with a thick layer of these berries, place 
the second cake on top and cover with the rest of the 
crushed and sweetened berries or large whole ones dusted 
with powdered sugar. Serve with thick cream or a 
crushed berry sauce. 

PUDDINGS. 

Almond Pudding. Blanche one pound of almonds 
and grind to a smooth paste with two teaspoonfuls of rose 
water. Add a wine glass of wine and a half cupful of 
cream thickened with a large spoonful of bread crumbs. 
Add a half pound of sugar, seven well beaten eggs and a 
half teaspooiiful of grated nutmeg. Put in a thin walled 
pudding dish, set in bag, seal and bake half an hour. 

Apple and Fig Pudding. Select large tart baking 
apples, wash and core. Stuff each apple with a fig rolled 
small as possible or chopped, as preferred. Put in but- 
tered bag and bake slowly until tender, but not broken. 
Place in a glass dish and cover with a thick boiled cus- 
tard. Decorate each apple with a candied or Maraschino 
cherry and serve with sweet wafers. 

Banana Pudding. Beat the yolks of three eggs and 
whites of two. Add a cupful of sugar, a scant half cup- 
ful softened butter, a cupful stale cake crumbs and a 
cupful of milk. Beat all together well, then add three 



126 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

bananas sliced thin, and the juice of a half lemon. Put 
into a basin then in a well buttered bag, seal and bake 
half an hour, take out, cover with a meringue made from 
the whipped white of the egg that was left over and a 
tablespoonful of sugar with a little lemon juice to flavor. 
Strew a little candied peel over the meringue and set in 
the oven, which should be quite cool for the meringue to 
rise slowly and stiffen. Serve with lemon sauce. 

Farmer's Plum Pudding. Put into a basin two 
cupfuls of flour sifted with two level teaspoonfuls baking 
powder, a pinch of salt and a level teaspoonful ginger 
and cinnamon. Add one-half cupful sugar, one cupful 
chopped suet, one-half cupful each candied peel and cur- 
rants and raisins. Make to batter consistency with one- 
half cupful each molasses and milk and one beaten egg. 
Put in small buttered molds, set in paper bag, pour in 
enough cold water to come three parts up the sides, seal 
and bake two hours, reducing the heat of the oven after 
the first ten minutes. Serve with hard or foamy sauce. 

Peach Betty. Sprinkle a layer of crumbs in a but- 
tered baking dish and over this a layer of peach quarters. 
Sprinkle with sugar, then repeat a layer of crumbs and 
peaches and sugar until the dish is filled, having the 
crumbs on top. Put in buttered bag and bake thirty-five 
minutes in a moderate oven, and serve with sweetened 
cream. To prepare the buttered crumbs melt a little 
butter and pour over the crumbs. 

Peach Cobbler. For this the richest and ripest 
peaches are none too good. Some variety of the yellow 
peach is usually chosen because of its superior richness. 
For its baking a pudding dish at least three and a half 
inches deep is chosen. This is lined with a rich crust, a 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 127 

square of the dough being taken from the bottom. Now 
peel enough ripe and luscious peaches to fill the dish, 
tearing them apart but leaving the pits in to impart their 
superior flavor. Sweeten abundantly, add about two 
tablespoonfuls water, and a tablespoonful of butter cut in 
bits. Cover with a layer of puff paste, sealing it down 
carefully on the sides to the border, so as to lose none 
of the juices. Bag and bake in a quick oven for forty- 
five minutes. When nearly done, draw to the edge of 
the oven, open the top of the bag, dust with pow- 
dered sugar and set back a few moments longer for the 
crust to glaze. This is perfection, whether eaten hot 
or cold, serving it alone, with cream or with a hard 
sauce as preferred. 

Peach Roly Poly. Make a sweet biscuit dough. 
Roll out thin and spread with a layer of sliced or chopped 
peaches and roll the dough over as for jelly roll. Put 
in buttered bag and bake in a moderate oven. 

Plum Roly Poly. Wash and stew any ripe sound 
plums and remove the pits. If very juicy, drain away 
the most of the juice. Sweeten to taste. Make a good 
biscuit dough or puff paste as preferred, roll out in long 
strips, sprinkle sugar on the upper side, then spread 
thinly with the stewed plums, roll up and pinch the ends 
tight. Put in buttered bag and cook thirty minutes. 
Serve with a sauce made from the extra juice sweeteend 
and slightly thickened with a little cornstarch. 

Rye Bread Pudding. Toast stale rye bread to a 
golden brown, then roll into fine crumbs. Brush small 
custard cups or a mould with melted butter, sprinkle 
over a few currants, raisins, prunes (cut fine) or figs, 



128 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

then fill with crumbs. Beat three eggs without sep- 
arating until light, add three tablespoonfuls of sugar, a 
pint of milk (with vanilla or nutmeg to flavor) and pour 
carefully over the bread crumbs. Let them stand ten 
minutes, until the mixture has soaked into the crumbs; 
then set in a paper bag in a pan of cold water and cook 
like a custard in the oven. It will take about half an 
hour. Test by slipping the blade of the knife down the 
side of the bag. If it comes up clear, the pudding is 
sufficiently baked. Serve hot with lemon or egg sauce 
or fruit syrup. 

Tapioca Apple Pudding. Soak one cupful tapioca 
in three pints cold water over night. In the morning put 
on to boil and cook twenty or thirty minutes, until it looks 
clear. Add a quart and a half peeled and quartered 
apples, one cup of sugar, a teaspoonful salt, and lemon 
juice or extract to flavor. Turn into a buttered dish, 
put in bag and bake an hour in a moderate oven. When 
cold serve with cream and sugar. 

A White Plum Pudding. Beat to a cream a half 
cup of sugar and three-quarters cup of butter. Add four 
eggs well beaten, a saltspoonful of salt, two cups milk, 
a quart of flour mixed with one-half cup shredded 
citron, one-half cup currants, a teaspoonful grated nut- 
meg and a teaspoonful vanilla. Just before turning 
into the mould stir in two even tablespoonfuls pure bak- 
ing powder. Put in bag, surround with water, steam two 
hours and serve with any good sauce. 

PUDDING SAUCES. 

Caramel Sauce. Put one-half cupful of sugar over 
the fire in a clean, smooth saucepan and stir until it be- 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 129 

comes a light brown color. Pour in a half cupful of 
boiling water, simmer ten minutes, add a tablespoonful 
of butter and serve with pudding or fritters. 

Cornstarch Pudding Sauce. Beat together one 
tablespoonful cornstarch, two tablespoonfuls of butter 
and a half cupful of brown sugar. Set on the stove until 
heated, then turn in hot water a little at a time and cook 
until consistency required. Add four tablespoonfuls of 
grape or apple jelly with spices or other flavoring to 
taste, and serve hot. 

Cream Sauce. Mix together two tablespoonfuls 
each of cornstarch and sugar. Add one beaten egg and 
cook in double boiler until thickened. Add a table- 
spoonful of butter and flavoring to taste. 

Cream Sauce a la Hotel Astor. Beat together one 
cupful each sugar and butter until perfectly blended. Add 
cream until mixture is like thick cream, dust with nutmeg 
or mace and serve. 

Delicious Fruit Sauce for Plum Pudding. Boil to- 
gether one cupful of water and two of sugar for ten 
minutes. Thicken slightly with three level teaspoonfuls 
arrow root or two teaspoonfuls corn starch mixed with 
a little cold water, simmer five minutes, then add a half 
cupful candied cherries, cut in halves and a few pistache 
nuts quartered. Flavor with nutmeg or vanilla as pre- 
ferred. 

Hard Sauce for Plum Pudding. Beat one cupful 
of butter to a cream. Add sugar gradually, two cupfuls 
in all, beating until very light. Add the whites of two 



130 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

eggs beaten to a stiff dry foam. Arrange on a flat glass 
dish and grate a little nutmeg over it. 

Molasses Sauce. To make molasses sauce, which is 
an excellent accompaniment to a plain rice or apple 
pudding, mix together one cupful of molasses, a table- 
spoonful of vinegar or the juice of one lemon, a salt- 
spoonful of salt and a tablespoonful of butter. Boil ten 
minutes. 



MENUS AND INDEXES 



CHAPTER XXII. 
PAPER BAG MENUS FOR WINTER. 

BREAKFAST NO. 1. 

Grapefruit 

Cereal 

Sweetbreads with Bacon (Paper-bagged) 

Scones (Paper-bagged) 

Coffee. 

BREAKFAST NO. 2. 

Oranges 

Cereal 

Spindled Oysters with Bacon (Paper-bagged) 

Water Cress 

Warmed over Rolls (Paper-bagged) 
Coffee. 

BREAKFAST NO. 3. 

Baked Apples (Paper-bagged) 

Beefsteak Leftovers (Paper-bagged) 

Sweet Potatoes Southern Style (in paper-bag) 

Scones (Paper-bagged) 

Coffee. 
133 



STANDARD PAPER, BAG COOKERY 



LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 1. 

Chicken Croquettes (Bagged) 
Olives Pickles 

Hot Biscuit (Bagged) 

Gingerbread (Bagged) 
Cheese 

Tea. 

LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 2. 

Pyster Bundles (Bagged) 

Baked Potatoes (Bagged) 

Celery Olives 

Pork Cake (Bagged) 

Baked Quinces (Bagged) 
Cocoa. 

LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 3. 

Mock Fried Oysters (Bagged) 

Pickles Celery 

Sally Lunn (Bagged) 

Sponge Cake (Bagged) 

Baked Apples 
Tea. 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 135 

DINNER NO. 1. 

Grapefruit with Maraschino Cherries 
Olives Pickles 

Smelts Milanaise (Bagged) 
Roast Chicken (Bagged) Baked Potatoes (Bagged) 

Currant or Cranberry Jelly (Bagged) 

Baked Onions (Bagged) Lettuce Salad 

Plum Pudding (Bagged) Hard Sauce 

Demi-Tasse. 

DINNER NO. 2. 

Grilled Sardines on Crackers (Bagged) 
Ripe Olives Celery Salted Almonds (Cooked in Bag) 

Ducks (Roasted in Bag) 
Candied Sweet Potatoes Southern Style (in Bag) 

Cranberry Molds, Biscuit (Bagged) 
Baked Apples Stuffed with Nuts (Bagged) 

Served with Cream 
Gingerbread (Bagged) 
Tea. 

DINNER NO. 3. 

Anchovy Canapes (Bagged)' 
Olives Celery; 

Roast Veal (Bagged) 

Baked Potatoes (Bagged) 

Spinach (Paper Bagged)] 

Endive and Roquefort Cheese Salad 

Cheese Straws (Paper-bagged) 

Mince Pie (Paper Bagged) 

Black Coffee. 



136 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 
PAPER BAG MENUS FOR SPRING. 



BREAKFAST NO. 1. 

Baked Rhubarb and Raisins (Paper-bagged) 

Cereal 

Omelette (Paper-bagged) 

Crisped Sweet Potatoes (Paper-bagged) 

Rolls (Reheated in bag) 

Coffee. 



BREAKFAST NO. 2. 

Strawberries au Naturel 

Cereal 

Eggs in Cocottes (Paper-bagged) 

Scones (Paper-bagged) 

Coffee. 



BREAKFAST NO. 3. 

Baked Prunes (Paper-bagged) 

Cereal 

Sweetbreads (Bagged) Water Cress 

Baking Powder Biscuit (Bagged) 

Coffee. 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 137 

LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 1. 

Bhubarb Short Cake (Paper-bagged) 

Cold Veal Loaf (Paper-bagged) 

Chocolate Cake (Bagged) 

Tea. 

LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 2. 
Crab Meat au Gratin (Paper-bagged) 

Biscuit (Paper-bagged) 

Mrs. Kelder's Loaf Cake (Bagged) 

Strawberries 

Cocoa. 

LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 3. 

Chicken Croquettes (Paper-bagged) 

Biscuit (Bagged) 
Pickles Olives 

Good Friday Cake (Paper-bagged) 

Custard 

Tea. 



138 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

DINNER NO. 1. 

Caviare Canapes (Bagged) 
Salted Nuts (Bagged) Olives 

Roast Leg of Lamb (Bagged) Mint Sauce 
Baked Potatoes (Bagged) 

Stuffed Baked Onions (Bagged) 
Rhubarb Pie (Bagged) 
Coffee. 



DINNER NO. 2. 

Bouchees of Sardines (Bagged) 

Deviled Almonds (Bagged) Radishes 

Breast of Lamb with Tomato Sauce (Bagged) 

Parsnips (Bagged) 
Baked Potatoes without their Jackets (Bagged) 

Lettuce Salad 

Rhubarb Short Cake (Bagged) 
Black Coffee. 



DINNER NO. 3. 

Strawberries au Naturel on Orange Slices 
Mussels au Gratin (Bagged) 

Irish Stew (Bagged) 

Scalloped Tomatoes (Bagged) 
Lettuce Salad 
Lemon Pie 
Coffee. 



STANDARD PAPER' BAG COOKERY 139 



PAPER BAG MENUS FOR SUMMER. 

BREAKFAST NO. 1. 

Raspberries 

Cereal 

Creamed Mushrooms (Bagged) 

Toast (Bagged) 

Coffee. 



BREAKFAST NO. 2. 

Blackberries with Cream 

Moulded Cereal 

Crisped Bacon and Liver (Bagged) 

Bolls (Bagged) Radishes 

Coffee. 



BREAKFAST NO. 3. 

Canteloupe 
Moulded Farina 

Corn Fritters (Bagged) 

Baked Egg in Tomato Cases (Bagged) 

Scones (Bagged) 

Coffee. 



140 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 1. 

Peach Puree 
Potato Salad 

Veal Loaf (Bag-cooked) 

Raspberry Short Cake (Bag-cooked) with Cream 
Iced Tea. 



LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 2. 

Cold Game Pie (Cooked in Bag) 

Hot Biscuit (Cooked in Bag) 

Oatmeal Crisps (Cooked in Bag) 

Blackberries 

Iced Tea. 



LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 3. 

Stuffed Tomatoes with Cream (Bag-cooked) 

Baked Lamb, Sweetbreads (Bag-cooked) 

Bread and Butter 

Lettuce Salad 

Raspberries Potato Caramel Cake (Bag-cooked) 

Iced Tea. 



STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 141 

DINNER NO. 1. 

Canteloupes 
Radishes Olives 

Lamb Chops (Bagged) Mint Jelly 
Green Peas (Bagged) 

String Bean Salad 
Lemon Ice 

DINNER NO. 2. 
Sardines and Lemon 
Olives Radishes 

Saute of Chicken with Mushrooms (Bagged) 

Sweet Potatoes en Brochette (Paper-hagged) 

Sliced Tomatoes with French Dressing 

Fruit Syllabub 

Potato Chocolate Cake (Baked in Bag) 
Iced Tea. 

DINNER NO. 3. 

Watermelon 

Roast Lamb (Paper-bagged) Mint Sauce, Currant Jelly 
New Potatoes (Bagged) Parsley Sauce 

Oriental String Beans (Paper-bagged) 
Cucumbers (Dressed with oil and vinegar) 

Neufchatel Cheese and Wafers 

Lemon Ice Chocolate Wafers (Bag-cooked) 

Iced Tea with Lemon. 



142 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 



PAPER BAG MENUS FOR AUTUMN. 

BREAKFAST NO. 1. 

Peaches and Cream 

Cereal 

Fried Tomatoes (Paper-bagged) Cream Gravy 

Blueberry Biscuit (Paper-bagged) 

Coffee. 



BREAKFAST NO. 2. 

Baked Apples (Bagged-cooked) with Cream 

Cereal 
Eggs Baked in Tomatoes (Paper-bagged) 

Baked Potatoes (Bagged) 
Biscuit (Bagged) 
Coffee. 



BREAKFAST NO. 3. 

Canteloupe 
Ham with Apples (Bagged) 

Sweet Potatoes (Bagged) 

Corn Meal Gems (Bag-cooked) 

Coffee. 



STANDARD PAPEBS BAG COOKERY 143 

LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 1. 

Cold Roast Chicken (Paper-Lagged) 
Baked Potatoes (Bagged) 

Tomatoes with Mayonnaise 

Bread and Butter Folds 

Baked Sweet Apples with Cream (Bagged), 1 

Chocolate Cake (Bagged), 

Tea. 



LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 2. 

Corn Patties (Bagged) 

Scalloped Potatoes (Bagged) 

Olives Pickles 

Farmer's Fruit Cake (Bagged) 

Baked Quinces 

Tea. 



LUNCHEON OR SUPPER NO. 3. 

Baked Potatoes en Surprise (Bagged); 
Chicken Croquettes (Paper-bagged) 

Sliced Tomatoes with French Dressing 
Baked Apples with Nuts (Bagged), 
Gingerbread (Bagged) 
Tea. 



144 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

DINNER MENU NO. 1. 

Canteloupe 

Caviare Canapes (Cooked in Bag) 
Sauer Braten with Carrots and Onions (Bagged) 
Baked Potatoes (Bagged) 

Lima Beans (Bagged) 

Sliced Tomatoes 

Peach Short Cake (Paper-bagged) 
Coffee. 

DINNER MENU NO. 2. 
Caviare Canape's (Cooked in Bag) 
Deviled Chestnuts (Paper-bagged) 
Roast Pork (Bagged) 

Sweet Potatoes (Bagged) 

Baked Egg Plant (Bagged) 
Cucumbers 

Apple Pie (Paper-bagged) with Cream Cheese 
Coffee. 

DINNER MENU NO. 3. 

Grapes and Peaches 

Cream of Chestnut Soup with Croutons (Cooked in Bag) 
Roast Duck (Bagged) Spiced Grapes 
Sweet Potatoes (Bagged) 

Baked Tomatoes (Bagged) 
Grape Pie (Baked in Bag) 
Coffee. 



CHAPTER XXIII 

A FEW OF THE EASIEST DISHES FOR 
BEGINNERS 

Baked Potatoes in their Jackets Page 96 

Baked Potatoes without Jackets " 96 

Bacon and Apples 70 

Sausage and Apples " 72 

Bacon and Bananas 70 

Sausage with Tomatoes " 73 

Roast Loin of Pork " 72 

Hot Cheese Canapes " 20 

Caviare Canapes " 20 

Cheese and Cracker Canapes 20 

Cracker Crisps " 21 

Roast Clams " 26 

Lobster in Shells " 29 

Baked Blue Fish " 31 

Filets of Flounder " 34 

Lamb Chops " 67 

Roast Leg of Lamb " 69 

Roast Chicken " 50 

Vealettes " 76 

Baked Onions " 94 

Sweet Potatoes and Bacon " 97 

Spinach " 98 

Peas " 94 

145 



146 STANDARD PAPER BAG COOKERY 

Turnips " 99 

Baking Powder Biscuits " 101 

Baked Apples " 112 

Cinnamon Apples 113 

Apple Dumplings " 112 

Baked Pears " 115 

Mrs. Kelder's Loaf Cake " 107 

Oatmeal Cakes " 109 

Pork Cake " 109 

Mince Turnovers " 122 

Individual Apple Tart " 12Q 



INDEX 



APPETIZERS AND RELISHES: PAGE 

Bouchee Cases 18 

Bonne Bouchee 19 

Bouchees of Caviare, Olives and Mayonnaise 19 

Bouchees of Sardines 19 

Bouchees of Sausage or Tongue 19 

Canape's, The Making of 19 

[Anchovy Canape's 20 

Caviare Canape's 20 

Hot Cheese Canape's 20 

Cheese and Crackers Canape's 20 

Cheese Toast Sandwiches 20 

Cracker Crisps 21 

Deviled Crackers 21 

Diables & Cheval 21 

Nut Appetizers 21 

Salted Almonds 21 

Deviled Almonds 22 

Roasted Chestnuts 22 

Salted Chestnuts 22 

Deviled Chestnuts 22 



BEEF: 



Bullock's Heart 61 

Stewed Bullock's Heart 61 

Filet of Beef 61 

Hamburg Steak 62 

Pot Roast 6 

Rib Roast of Beef 63 

147 



148 INDEX 

Roast Round of Beef in Paper Bag 64 

Sauer Braten 64 

Beef Steak 65 

Toledo Beef Steak 65 

Stuffed Koast Beef or "Mock Duck" 65 

CAKES: 

Cheese Cakes 104 

Cinnamon Cake 105 

English Fairy Cakes 105 

Fruit Cookies 106 

Mrs. Godfrey's Soft Ginger Bread 106 

Good Friday Cake 106 

German Honey Cakes 107 

Pecan Kisses 107 

Mrs. Kelder's Loaf Cake 107 

Hickory Nut Macaroons 108 

Walnut Macaroons 108 

Maple Sugar Cake 108 

Molasses Coffee Cake 108 

Nut Cake 108 

Oatmeal Cakes 109 

German Peach Cake 109 

Pork Cake 109 

Potato Chocolate Cake 110 

Potato Caramel Cake 110 

Auburn Pound Cake Ill 

Raisin Nut Cake Ill 

Sour Cream Cake Ill 

CHEESE AND EGG DISHES: 

Cheese Balls with Tomato Sauce 87 

Cheese Fritters to Serve with Salad Course 87 

Pepper Cheese 87 

Cheese Ramekins 88 

Cheese and Eggs 88 

Baked Eggs 88 

Baked Eggs with Cheese 88 

A Paper Bag Omelette 88 

Cheese Omelette 89 

Swiss Eggs 89 

Eggs in Tomato Cups 89 



INDEX 149 

FISH [(also see Shell Fish);: 

Filet of Bass 31 

Baked Blue Fish 31 

Bloaters, A Breakfast Dish of 31 

Cat Fish 32 

Codfish Cones 32 

Codfish a la Creme 32 

Eels, Paper Bagged 33 

Flounder a la Meunie"re 33 

Filets of Flounder 34 

Finnan Haddie 34 

Fish Cakes 34 

New England Fish Pie 35 

Fish Souffle* 35 

Planked -Fish Bag Cooked 36 

Halibut a la Poulette 37 

Herring au Gratin 37 

Herrings with Herbs 37 

Kedgeree 37 

Kippered Mackerel with Fine Herbs 38 

Salmon Loaf 38 

Scalloped Salmon 38 

Salmon Souffle* 39 

Baked Shad 39 

Shad Roe 39 

Smelts 40 

Bagged Weak Fish 40 

White Fish Planked 41 

FISH SAUCE (also see Sauces and Gravies) : 

Anchovy Sauce 42 

Quick Bearnaise Sauce 42 

Bearnaise Sauce 42 

Brown Sauce 43 

Curry Sauce 43 

Egg Sauce 43 

Sauce Hollandaise 43 

Egg Sauce Made from the Hollandaise 44 

Lobster Sauce 44 

Maitre d'Hotel Butter 44 



150 INDEX 

Sauce for Broiled Shad a la Murray 45 

Parsley Butter 45 

Sauce Tartare 45 

FRUITS: 

Baked Apples 112 

Baked Apple Dumplings 112 

Cold Baked Apples with Rum 112 

Cinnamon Apples 113 

Apples Stuffed with Figs 113 

Baked Apples and Nuts 113 

Raisin Apples 114 

Baked Apple Sauce 114 

Baked Bananas 114 

Stuffed Dates 114 

Baked Gooseberries 114 

Baked Peaches 114 

Baked Pears 115 

Baked Plums 115 

Baked Quinces 115 

Baked Raisins 115 

Chestnut Patties 115 

GAME [(see Poultry and Game) : 
LAMB AND MUTTON: 

Breast of Lamb with Tomato Sauce 67 

Lamb Chops 67 

Lamb or Mutton Cutlets with Tomatoes 67 

Lamb Fry 68 

Lamb's Kidney 68 

Leg of Mutton Cooked in Cider 68 

Mutton Chops and Sausage 68 

Ragout of Lamb 68 

Roast Leg of Lamb 69 

A Genuine Irish Stew 69 

PASTRY: 

Plain Pie Crust 116 

Apple Pie 117 



INDEX 151 

Deep Apple Pie with Cream Cheese 117 

Cranberry Pie Hg 

Cranberry and Raisin Pie 118 

Lemon Pie 118 

Mince Pie 118 

Mock Mince Pie 119 

Pecan Pie with One Crust 119 

Real Old-Fashioned Pumpkin Pie 119 

Individual English Apple Tart 120 

Colonial Pumpkin Tartlets 121 

Apple and Cheese Turnovers 121 

Apricot or Plum Jam Turnovers 122 

Mince Turnovers 122 

PORK IN VARIED FORMS: 

Bacon and Apples 70 

Bacon and Bananas 70 

Bacon and Calf's Liver 70 

Baked Pork Chops 70 

Pork Chops and Sweet Potatoes 70 

Ham and Scalloped Potatoes 71 

Ham, Spinach and Lamb Chops 71 

Stuffed Fresh Ham or Shoulder 72 

Roast Loin of Pork 72 

Roast Spare-Rib 72 

Baked Sausage with Apples 72 

Baked Sausage and Potato 72 

Baked Sausage with Toast 73 

Baked Sausage with Tomatoes 73 

Tenderloin of Pork 73 

POULTRY AND GAME: 

Capon , 47 

Chicken with Parsnips 48 

Chicken d. la Balitmore 48 

Chicken Croquettes 48 

Paper Bagged Chicken 49 

Chicken Pie 49 

Paste for Chicken Pie 50 

Chicken Rissoles 50 



152 INDEX 

Roast Chicken 50 

Saute of Chicken with Mushrooms 50 

Smothered Chicken 51 

Ducks with Banana Dressing 51 

Canvas Backs 51 

Chicken, Italian Style 52 

Roast Wild Duck 52 

Roast Wild Duck, Ohio Style 53 

Frogs' Legs 53 

Paper Bag Roast Goose 53 

Sage and Potato Stuffing 54 

Roasted Young Guinea Fowl 54 

Broiled Young Guinea Hen 55 

Quail 55 

Stuffed Quail 56 

Rabbit Cookery 56 

Barbecued Rabbit 56 

Roast Rabbit 57 

Stewed Rabbit 57 

Reed Birds 58 

Squab 58 

Barbecued Squirrel, (Southern Style) 58 

Turkey la Bonham 59 

Venison 60 

Venison Steak 60 

PUDDINGS AND PUDDING SAUCEES: 

'Almond Pudding 125 

Apple and Fig Pudding 125 

Banana Pudding 125 

Farmer's Plum Pudding 126 

Peach Betty 126 

Peach Cobbler 126 

Peach Roly-Poly 127 

Plum Roly-Poly 127 

Rye Bread Pudding 127 

Tapioca Apple Pudding 128 

A White Plum Pudding 128 

Caramel Sauce 1 28 

Cornstarch Pudding Sauce 129 

Cream Sauce 129 



INDEX 153 

Cream Sauce & la Hotel Astor 129 

Delicious Fruit Sauce for Plum Pudding 129 

Hard Sauce for Plum Pudding 129 

Molasses Sauce 130 

RECOOKED DISHES: 

Beef Steak Left Overs 83 

Chicken Croquettes 83 

Mock Fried Oysters 84 

Turkey Croquettes 84 

Edinboro Hot Pot 84 

Individual Meat Pies 85 

English Pasties 85 

Olla Podrida Pie 85 

Oyster Bundles 86 

SAUCES AND GRAVIES: 

Bignon's Sauce 78 

Bread Sauce 78 

Brown Sauce 78 

Celery Sauce 79 

Currant Jelly Sauce 79 

Curry Sauce 79 

Hollandaise Sauce 79 

Horseradish Sauce 80 

Maitre d'Hotel Butter 80 

Mexican Sauce 80 

Mint Sauce for Roast Lamb 80 

French Mustard Sauce, Creole Style 81 

Mustard Sauce for Cold Meat 81 

Onion Sauce 81 

Spanish Sauce 81 

Thick Tomato Sauce 82 

Sauce Tartare 82 

SHELL FISH: 

Clam Pies 26 

Roast Clams 26 

Crabs, Soft and Hard 26 



154 INDEX 

Creamed Crabs 27 

Crabs Deviled a la William Penn 27 

Crab Meat au Gratin 27 

Crab Flakes au Gratin 28 

Lobster Chops 28 

Coquilles of Lobster 28 

Lobster in Shells 29 

Mussels au Gratin 29 

Boxed Oysters (Virginia Style) 29 

Spindled Oysters and Bacon 30 

SHORT CAKES: 

Banana Short Cakes 123 

Peach Short Cake 123 

Rhubarb Short Cake 124 

Old-Fashioned Strawberry Short Cake 124 

SOUP ACCESSORIES: 

Bread Sticks 23 

Croutons Toasted 23 

Crisped Crackers 23 

Egg Balls 23 

Forcemeat Balls, or Quenelles 24 

VEAL: 

Baked Calf's Liver 74 

Calves' Brains in Tempting but Inexpensive Ways.. 74 

Breaded Brains 74 

Sweetbreads 75 

Baked Sweetbreads 75 

Sweetbreads with Bacon 75 

Larded Sweetbreads 75 

Sweetbreads Straight 76 

Vealettes 76 

Veal Loaf 76 

Shoulder of Veal Stuffed and Braised 77 

VEGETABLES: 

Asparagus , 90 



INDEX 155 

Asparagus with Cheese 90 

Lima Beans 90 

String Beans, Oriental Style 91 

Boston Baked Bean Cakes 91 

Bean Croquettes 91 

German Cabbage 92 

Cabbage Hot Slaw 92 

Carrots 92 

Carrot Saute 92 

Dolmas 99 

Stuffed Eggplant 93 

Lentil Cutlets 93 

Mushrooms 93 

Baked Onions 94 

Stuffed Baked Onions 94 

Onions with Cheese 94 

Parsnips 94 

Green Peas 94 

Stuffed Peppers 95 

Peppers with Cream Fish 96 

Baked Irish Potatoes 96 

Baked Potatoes without their Coats or Jackets 96 

Potatoes en Surprise 96 

Potatoes Farci 97 

Sauer Kraut 97 

\V aldrof Sauer Kraut 97 

Sweet Potatoes and Bacon 97 

Sweet Potato Straws 98 

Sweet Potato en Brochette 98 

Spinach 98 

Summer Squash in Butter 9 

Stuffed Summer Squash 9 

Stuffed Tomatoes with Cream 9 

Turnips 9 

Turnip Balls 9 

Stuffed Vine Leaves or Dolmas 99 

WARM BREADS, BISCUITS, MUFFINS, ETC.: 

Baking Powder Bread 1 

Bannocks 101 

Baking Powder Biscuits 101 



156 INDEX 

Egg Biscuits 102 

Maple Biscuits 102 

Nut Biscuits 102 

Raisin Biscuits 103 

Hot Cross Buns 103 

.Warmed Over Breads ^ 103 



/FIND THE 
1EW COOKERY 
111 EASY 

\ i/ you us.e onlif 

CONTINENTAL 
* COOKERY BAGS 





MADE expressly 
for Paper Bag 
Cooking. 

The perfected prod- 
uct of much invest- 
igation and many 
experiments. 



/CONTINENTAL Cookery Bags are White, 
^ Sanitary, Strong, Waterproof, Grease- 
proof and entirely Odorless. In every way 
they are Safe and Suitable. 

Packages of 30 Bags, Conveniently Assorted, 
with Special Clips and Book of Directions and 
Recipes, 25c. A variety of sizes at the same 
price per package. 

CONTINENTAL PAPER BAG CO. 
WHITEHALL BUILDING, NEW YORK 



OVAL WOOD 
Cookery Dishes 




Should 
be 

Used in 
All 
Paper 



Cooking 

They are as Important as the Bags 

Because they conserve all the delicate meat and vege- 
table juices, adding a savory flavor to everything cooked 
in them. 

With our Cookery Dishes you can give to all meats the 
delicious taste which has heretofore been secured only by 
planking steaks and fish. 

The sweet wood we use sugar-maple only is always 
fresh, giving an effect that cannot be maintained perma- 
nently by the ordinary plank. 

Everything that can be cooked in a paper bag tastes 
better if you use our Cookery Dishes also. 
ASK YOUR DEALER ABOUT THEM 
They are packed in cartons suitable for all purposes, assuring the de- 
livery of clean and sanitary dishes in your kitchen. 

THE OVAL WOOD DISH COMPANY 

Delta, Ohio 

127 Franklin St., New York 436 Gravier St., New Orleaw 

Manufacturers of "O.W.D." Butter Dishes, Picnic Plato, and Clothes Pins 



Refined 
Vegetable Oil 

Is recommended by physicians and culinary ex- 
perts in place of butter and animal fats for all 
cooking; it is more healthful and economical. 

Wesson Snowdrift Oil 

The Best Refined Vegetable Oil 

Is Unexcelled for 
Greasing Paper Bags 



Y'OU can buy many different kinds of 
* vegetable oils, but you can't get any- 
thing equal to Wesson Snowdrift Oil. It 
is refined by the Wesson process (the 
only process yet discovered for properly 
refining vegetable oils) and we control 
that process. No other manufacturer can 
use it. <| Wesson Snowdrift Oil has just 
the right smoothness and consistency to 
make rich and delicious salad dressings. 

AT ALL GROCERS 

On request, we will mail you our Wesson 
Snowdrift Oil book of 150 recipes. 
Please mention your grocer's name. 

The Southern Cotton Oil Company 

Dept. B 

24 'Broad Street, New York, N. T. 

Savannah Chicago New Orleans 
San Francisco 





This illustration shows a bag 
properly closed ivitb clips. 



The Cookery Bag Clip 

is the only successful device for 
effectually closing Paper Cookery Bags 






The projecting lips permit the clips to slip on to 
the bags easily; the free ends projecting outwardly 
prevent the clips slipping off the bag when in use. 

Made by 

THE OAKVILLE COMPANY 

Waterbury, Conn. 

Makers ot Sovran Pin s and the Clinton and T>amas cut 

Safety Pins. 



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