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I
r .
THS
STATISTICAL ACCOUNT
OF
SCOTLAND
I
THE
STATISTICAL ACCOUNT
OF
SCOTLAND.
JDRAWN UP FROM THE COMMUNICATIONS
or THK
MINISTERS
OF THE
T
j DIFFERENT PARISHES.
Br Sir JOHN SINCLAIR, Bart.
VOLUME TWELFTH.
u j&4 c»nfilium it republica dtmdum, eafmt tft nqfl* rempublitam."
Ctcwo, de Or at. lib. ii.
EDINBURGH:
PRJKTED AND SOLD BY WILLIAM CREECH ;
AND ALSO SOLD BT J. DONALDSON, A. GUTHRIE, W. LAING, AND JO.. AND
J A. FAIRBAIRN, EDINBURGH J T. CADELL, J. DEB RETT, AND J.
«6W£LL, LONDON^ DUN LOP AND WILSON, GLASGOW}
ANGUS AND SON, ABERDEEN.
I
CONTENTS.
P
Population h
Ko* Name,
^i. Peebles,
2. Dalkeith, -
3. Pettinain,
4. Cold ing ham, -
5. Abbay of St. Bathans,
6. Southdean, .
-k £eijr. - - -
8. Barr, -
9. Dairy, - - -
30. Bai ony of Glafgow, -
XI. Cairny, -
12. Weem, -
13. Culleti, -
14. Olrick, -
15. St. Vigcans, -
1 6. Kirriemuir, -
17: Kemnay,
1S. Glenmuick, Tulloch, and Glengairn,
19. Kinghorn, ....
«o. Cromarty, -
*x. Kiimuir Wetter and Suddy, -
22. Forgue, -
23. Ruthven, . ' -
24. Auchterlefs, ...
25. Jura and Colonfay, ...
2$. Girvan, ....
27. Northmavcn, -
28. Traquair, -
29* Nairn, - ....
30. Monktown and Pre (lick, . .
31. Weft Kilbride, -
32. Kirkmichael, -
33. Saddel and Skipnefs, ...
34. Auchindoir, ....
, 35. Dyfart,
36". Markinch, - - - -
37. Lyne and Megget, -
38. Cambufnethan, -
39. Aberdour, -
40. Fettercflb, -
41. Waraphray, -
42. Eflulalcmuir, ^
Totals, —
Increafe in 1701 — ^. —
1755-
1&96
3110
330
*3»3
&o
4S0
495
85S
1408
3925
-2690
"95
900
«7S
»59»
3409
*43
2270
*3S9
2096
668
1S02
280
1264
1097
1 193
1009
169S
♦ 582
8S5
12S8
1369
839
2367
2188
265
1419
1397
306Z
458
675
I701-*
192O
4365
3™
*J9»
164
7*4
52o
750
2030
»8»45i
2600
13*4
1214
533*
4358
611
2117
176S
•2184
1805
1778
22a
1200
1858
f7*5
17S6
446
2400
7*7
698
1276
i34i
57*
4862
2790
160
16S4
1306
t337°
619
59i°*°°
85.H5
59,*o°
«5.7 1 5
JD«r.
24
I2Sr>
.^
7s
**'r
234
*5
108
502
*4546
90
69
3H
126
J744
949
3*
*53
6zi
88
"37
*4
60
64
761
53*
777
205
702
■ '
135
_
,87
12
28
267
M95
602
105
26s
•
91
28S
29
27,8 tS
2,103
*5.7*5
5*
X
18
28
43
61
67
73
8x
90
109
127
130
*43
15*
i*5
187
199
ais
229
*45
262
279
290
30*
317
335
34*
3*9
38i
394
404
4*5
475
490
50*
5*5
5S*
5*8
575
59i
tfo«
607
ato 3
* In Dr. Webfter's report, the Parifli of Monktown, Preftick, and Newtown
upon Ayr, is faid, in 1755, to hare contained 1163 fouls, one half of which* if
is fuppofed, might belong to Monktown and Preftick.
J- This was the population in 1790.
i
♦ .
R R R A T A,
**g* *5.
line 15,
fir
point,
m*rk
cemraa.
— i77t
8,
—
breach,
read
branch.
3**
7»
—
flopping,
Jloping.
II,
—
favours,
favour.
448»
",
—
intereci.
interfol.
-—504,
a*
—
vulcantia,
—
▼ulcasia*
— t58i,
line Isrt,
—
diftantof,
_-.
diftanf*
STATISTICAL ACCOUNT
OF
SCOTLAND*
*.
/
PART XII.
NUMBER I.
Parish of Peebles.
(Count* or Peebles, Synod or LothIan and TW£e»dale,
pRESBTTERT OF PEEBLES.)
By tb* Rev. William Dalgliesh, D. D.
- ■ • - * .. . — -.■■_-.... . -_
Name and Situation of the Toivn and Pati/b.
PEEBLES, the name of the burgh And pariA* in the oldeft
writings Piblis, feems plainly to have been taken from
the pebbles with which the foil abounds, particularly where'
the town was flrft built. Being the county towQ^ and the
feat of a prefcytery, Peebles gives name to both. The town'
Hands on the N. fide of the river Tweed, white Peebles' Wa-
ter falls into it j the old town on the W.f and the new 'on the
E. fide of that water, joined by two bridges carried over it,
Vol. XII. A and
2 Stati/iical Account
ana communicating with the country on the S.t by an anw
cient and well built bridge of 5 arches over the Tweed. The
landward parr of the parifh is from E. to W, J-J miles, and
from N. to S. 10 miles, and contains 18,210 acres. The ri-
ver Tweed, running through it from W. to E., divides it in*
to nearly equal parts. Peebles, called alfo Eddleftone water}
fubdivides the N. part of it. The royal- burgh of Peebles
Hands in* the centre, and in a fituatfanr remarkably pleafant-
It is built in a beautiful and healthy opening in a hilly coun-
try. It has the Cattle of Horf&urgh, fituated on a gentle e-
xninence on the E. ; the Cattle of Needpath, embofomed m
an amphitheatre of wood, on the W» ; the rich ft rath of Ed-
dleftone water, adorned with gentlemen's* feats, on the N. ; and
a variety of thriving plantations on the & Like as in the
Tempe of Theffaly, the river, in clear ftreams, and beautiful
windings, flows through the middle of the vale, which, on
both fides of the river, is adorned with rich meadows, and
fields of eorn. Verdant hiHsr covered with flocks and herds,
rife gently all around ; and higher mountain!, emitting fprings
more (alubrious than Ofla or Olympus, rear their lofty fum-
mitS behind, and terminate the profpeft. The fltuation of
Peebles is as healthy as it is pleafant. The foil is dry, and
the air well ventilated and pure. The Tweed runs through:
a track of 80 miles, taking the ftraight, and 100 miles, fol-
lowing the ferpentine line of its courfe, and falls 1500 feet ~
But though it has finUhed one^third only of its courfe, it has
feUfl* two-thirds of its defceot at Peebles, which is only $00
feet above the level of the fea. Situated in a centrical part of
the country, Peebles- has the rains from all quarters, in a very
moderate degree ; fo that the average quantity yearly is only
a 5 inches.. And guarded on the N. E. by the higheft part
of th%t long range of, mountains which runs from Lammtis
nuiirto the h? ad of Eddleftoae water, Peebles commoaly is
Hot vifited by the eaftern £ag one day in the year.
Of PcebUu 3
Sot% Culture, and Rent ff Lands.-— The foil on the level of
the Tweed, and Eddleftone water, is clay mixed with fand*
•find fit for com or gra&. The lands rifing a little higher are
generally loam on a gravelly bottom, and produce excellent
barky, oats, and all green crops. The foil on the ikirts and
£des of the hiUs, is an eafy and rich earth, and tbefe grounds,
where not incloied, are kept alternately in natural grafs and in
ooro. Improvements in agriculture bare of late years madf
« rapid progress in the parkh of Peebles ; 1500 acres are al»
ready esclofed. There are 700 acres more of infield ground,
a great part of which will be endofed in a fcort time. Of
.outfield ground, which is fometimes in tillage, but more com*
m'only in natural grafs, for pafluriag cows and horfes, thepe
are 800 acres* The other lands, being hilly, afford excellent
failure for Jheep, and are employed for this purpofe. The
Jands nigh the town are let at from 40 s. to 50 s. the acre*
Within thefe ao years, the rental of the parilh is become don*
bit \ and in 110 years, (cptpple; for the valuation in \6%X
was 3036 1. Scots. The prefent rental is now above '3000 1.
Sterling, paid to i£ heritors, of which two only, and the bur*.
gefles, who are many of them proprietors of lands, refide in
.the pariih. The JPeebks grey pea has long been in high efti-
tnation all over the country for feed ; as alfo are the oats,
which, raifed from a warm foil, make excellent feed for lands
that are higher and colder. Wkh regard to potatoes, firt
imported into Britain by Sir Walter Raleigh, and the moft
ufeful root that ever was imported into this, or any other
country, they are nowhere cultivated wkh more care, and
raifed in greater excellence and incntafe than at Peebles.
Ground is parceled out for planting from x to 6 pecks, at
<X s. 6 d.tbe peck s no or tic fquare yards are ufually at
lowed to the peck. . The proprietor or pofiefibr of the ground
ploughs it till it is clean, drives out the dung, and plants the
A a potatoes
4 Statiftical Acctunt
potatoes with the plough ; and befides having his grotfnd
cleaned and manured, has a reasonable rent for his lands, and
price for his labour. The little tenants furnifli the dung and
feed, affift in cleaning tjie ground, and planting the potatoes,
hoe and dig them after their hours of working, which contri-
butes'to their health, and have their potatoes for half of the
price at which they could otherwife purchafe them, and which,
to many families, furnifli a third part of their fubfiftence at
a very cheap rate.
Animals. — The Tweed abounds not only with trout, but
falmon, which vifit the higher parts of it for fpawning, to-
wards the end of the year. Accordingly the Peebles Arms
are 3 falmon. In the parifh there are 200 horfes, and 50*
cows, both much better than in former times. The number
of iheep is about 8000. The ancient kind is ftill generally
retained $ but by their being kept fewer in number, and being
better fed, they are much improved in quality. As the
grounds in this part of the country are generally dry and
healthy, the iheep are not fo liable to difeafe as in many other
places. Of thefe, what is called the Jtcinefr, is generally the
inoft common and the mod fatal. It is an inflammation in
-the bowels, brought on by the full habit of the animal, by
fudden heats and colds, by eating wet and firofted grafs, or by
lying on wet grounds ; and might, in moft cafes, be prevent-
ed by bleeding, by gentle treatment, and by change of pas-
ture. • It is a pity that the moft harmlefs, and the moft ufeful
of all animals ihould, iff this refpeft, have fo long been the
moft negle&ed. By a better knowledge of the difeafes of the
iheep, their natural caufes, and the means of preventing or
curing them, many thoufands of them might be annually fav-
ed to (heir proprietor! and to the cpuntry.
~, *
Population^
Of Peebles. * g
' Population, lsV.«— According to Dr. Webfter's report, tho
number of fouls then was 1896. The inhabitants in this pa-
rifh, of all denominations, in 1791, are 1920, diftinguifhed as;
follows :
• In the Old Town, - 350
- In the New Town, ~ * - 1130
In the landward part of the parilh, - » 440
Under 5 years of age,
263
from 50 to 60
158
From 5 to xo - -
484
v— 60 to 70 -
- 164
f— — 10 to ao » -
365
— 70 to 80 -
- 50
,—-20 to 30 _ .
*58
— — 80 to 90 -
- 8
f 30 to 40 - -
192
— 1 — 9<? to 100 -
%
j 40 to 59 - -
176
1910
Seceders and Cameronians, 61 Average of marriages
Minifler of the eftablifhed yearly for the l»ft x*
church, ,- i years, - - za
Minifier of the feceffion, 1 JJirths for ditto, 56
* Burials, - • ffc
Inoculation has been pra&ifed for many years in this
county by able furgeons, with jyreat fuccefs, and becomes
more and more general. Above a thoufand have been ino-
culated, without one dying* Nay, fojne patents have even
inoculated their children themfelves, and have perfe&Ly fuo»
cecded. The inhabitants of the parifh, in towrj and country,
are generally healthy, aud live many of them to very advao-
ced
* From the number of communicants in each parifli, entered laft century oa
the records of the prefbytery, as the rule by which the m'oney then given to
their borfar was levied from the feveral pftriihes, it is evident that the popula-
tion of this parilh, and of this county in general, has, fince that time, decreased
more than one-fourth part. This is owing to fhe annexation of farms, and throw-
ing down of cottages, by which the great tenants are enriched, but the (mail
ones, and the cottagers, are.'almoft wholly estinguUhed ; and manufactures not
Jawing baen eftablifhed in towns and villages, the people molt go elfewhere, as
-aeoeifity impels, ox inclination leads them.
6 Statiftical Account
ced age. Lately there were 6 men living at the fame rim*,
within fifty yards of one another, in the old town of Peebles,
whofe ages together amounted to ji8 years, and who, feveral
of them, died near 100 years old. The people are regular in
their attendance on the institutions of religion, fober, peace-
able, and virtuous j fo that, in the memory of the oldeft per*
fon living, no native of Peebles has either been baniihed, or
differed capital punifhmeot. In the way in which holidays of
human inftitution are now obferved in Europe, it ts of advan-
tage to induftry, to virtue, and to religion itfelf, that we have
fo few of them in Scotland. In every age and country, the
Sabbath has been, and ever mud be, the great fupport of reli-
gion and of virtue among mankind. Nothing has fo much
hurt the devout falsification of that holy day in other coun-
tries, as men's being accuAomed to employ one part of a ho-
liday in devotion, and the other in diverfion ; And nothing
has tended more to preferve a due obfervance of the Sabbath,
a reverence of God, and veneration for religion and its ordu
nances in Scotland, than this, that Our holidays are moftly ob«
ferved with the fame religious fanftity as the Sabbath.
' Stipend, Poor, Schools, Sce-^Tbe chvrch, which is elegant
and fubftantial, ornamental to the town, and commodious for
the parifli, was finilhed in 1783. And the manfe was built
in 1770. The (Upend is 1200 1. Scots, and 50 1. Scots for
'communion elements. The glebe contains 6 acres* The
Duke of Queeniberry, as Earl of March, is patron. The
poor have no regular fupport but from the intereft of between
400 1. and joo 1. Sterling in the management of the kirk fe£-
$on, the collection* at the church doors on Sabbath, and the
froall funis arifing from the ufeof the pall andhearfe, amount-
ing to about 60 1. Sterling yearly : Befides what the magif-
trates give to indigent pcrfoos from the xev&oes of the town,
and
OfP'eMtt. *• )
and which they jultly vary as the exigencies of the times re-
quire. As the burgh is the greateft part of the parifh, the
magiftrates and council have always appointed fchoolmaftera
for the n(e of the whole pari(h ; one for teaching the Gram*
mar, another the Englifh fchool, and have provided them with
proper houfes and {alaries. Private fchools alfo have always
citified, and of late have become rivals for fame of education
with the public ones* All the matters are able, and all of
them are emulous, which to make the bed fcholars. At thefe
fchools no fewer than 150 children are at prefent educated;
many of them from different parts of the kingdom, and who,
for boarding and clothing, bring into the town annually above
looo 1, Sterling. Poor children are educated by the kirk-fef-
Son from the poor's funds, and no part of them is more pro-
perly applied. The mftitution of parochial fchools is to the
honour, as well as the utility of Scotland. It flxows the wis-
dom and patriotifm of our anceftors in a high degree. At
thefe neceflary and ufeful little feminaries of literary and reli-
gious knowledge, eftabliihed by law in every parifli, man*
have received the firft principles of literature, who have be-
come ornaments to their country, and bleffings to mankind.
What a pity is it, that in a country of increafed, and of year-
ly increafing opulence and ezpenfe, the (alaries of fo ufeful •
clafs of men are not increafed in proportion !
Modern Improvements in Trade and Manufa8ure9 (/?•—*
Formerly Peebles was fupported chiefly by the houfes and
burgh acres belonging to the burgeffes, by their merchan-
dife and their trade, and by the many valuable common ties
granted by the king* of Scotland to the burgh for its loyal-
ty and good fervices. Now, improvements begin to be car-
ried on upon a larger fcale. Of late years, about fifty houfes
have been built or thoroughly repaired* Woollen, linen, aa4
cotton
$ Statiftical Account
cotton weavers are making greater exertions, and larger hpufcs
are built for them. • The magiftrafes have long pipvided the
community with excellent floor, barley, corn, and falling
mills* Dr. James Hay of Hayftown, befides improving his
valuable eftate, and letting an example of general improve*
meot, has built a lint-mill for the accommodation of the
country. Mr. William Ker of Kerfield, has ere&cd one of
the completed breweries and diftilleries, and made a new. and
ufefal improvement in the art of brewing : Perceiving a part
of the fine effluvia of the hop to fly off during the boiling. of
the worts, he contrived a mod ingenious and effectual method
of preferving it. lie covers his copper with a dole, but
moveable top of the fame metal, having a pipe descending
from it, and carried through cold water, like the worm of a
ftill, by which means the fleam is condenfed and condu&ed
into a common receiver, where the oil of the hop floating on
the furface of the watery part, is Hummed off, and returned
into the worts when the boiling is finiJhed. By this means a
third of the hop is faved, and the moft aromatie part of it is
prcfefved, fo as to give the beer a finer flavour, and keeps it
from fouring till it is brought to a greater age and excellence*
He ha* formed a defiga of ere&ing a woollen manufacture ac->
cording to the moft approved plan, which will alfo be of ge-
neral utility. — By the great. JQQreafo-of trade and opulence*
the price of labour of all kinds has increafed one third part
within thefe twenty years. Men ferVants have 61. or 7 L, and
maid fervants 3 1. Sterling of yearly wages* befides their vic-«
tuals. Common labourers have 1 s. a~day, without vi&uals*
and mafons and carpenters 1 s. 6 d. All clafles are better edu-
cated, better lodged, better clothed and fed than in former
times. It is alfo happy for thofe in the lower clafles, that
though Peebles is the thoroughfare for oatmeal, carried from
the richer corn country on the eaft, to the mining and rnanu-*
faduring
Of Peebles. p
ra&uring country on the weft* yet the average price of this
meal for twenty years paft, has not exceeded 5 d., or at moft
sod. the peck; and it is a received maxim, that while 9
labourer can earn a peck of oatmeal in a day, be will, in com-
mqfi cafes, be able to fupport his family.
Antiquities and Curiofities. — The Celtae, a numerous and
powerful people, who fpread over a great part of tba qorthanij
weft of Europe, and who, as Julius Csefor informs vs, were, in
the neighbouring country, called alfo GaHi> were, the firft in-
habitants of Britain, and the Celtic or Gaelic was its firft and
univerfal language. About the beginning of the Chriftian
*ra, the Romans fubdued and provinciated <whgt of the iiland
lies fouth of the Forth and the Clyde, and introduced in many-
places the Latin* The Saxons in the jth, and the Danes in
the 9th and nth centuries, made iiwrafions and fettlement*
in Britain, and introduced their language. By thefe means,
and by the great numbers qi the Engjifh, who, upon the
Norman conqueft, came into the fouth of Spotland, apd had
lands given them, the Celtic language gradually gave way in
this part of the country, to the Roman and the Saxon, of
which 4>ur present English language is compofed. Of thefe
things ve(iiges,ftill remain in thi* paiifti and \ntbe neigh-
bourhood. At Lyne, four miles weft from Peebles, is a dit-
tind Rpman Caftxa Stativa, |oo feet tyuare, with two ditcher
and three, tampacts, containing between fi* and £even acres.
Three miles fouth from this oan*p, apd on the other fide of
the Tweed, is a hill called Cademuir, anciently Cadhmoref fig-
nifying in Gaelic, "the great figbfj" on the top of which are
four Britilh camps, one of them much flronger than the reft*
furrounded with itooe walk, without cement, in lame places
double, and where Cngle, no lefs than five yards in thicknefs j
without which, and out of the ruins of which, have been
Vol. XII. B eroded
to StatiJHcai Account
ert&cA near 300 monumental (tones, many of them ftfll (land-
ing, and others fallen down,— indications that in very early
times, when die Gaelic was the common language of the
country, and when the Romans had as yet been the only in-
vaders of it, a great battle had been fought on that hill, and
that at the Arong camp on the top of it, numbers had been
killed, and were buried. On the extremity of the pari(h to*
ward the N. W., is a high hill called Melden, properly MeU
tein, " the Hill of Fire," from the fires kindled on the top of
it, anciently in worfliip of the Sun, or afterward to give fignsl
to the furrounding country, when enemies appeared in the
Frith of Forth ; and round the top of it a large inclofure or
camp is vifible. Toward the eaft part of the parifli is a hiU
called Frineti, or properly Daneti or Danes?-braet with two
circular camps, of which the higheft has been furrounded
with a ditch above ten feet in depth. Many other camps are
to be feen on eminences and on the tops of hills, all over the
country, veftiges of ancient invafionand danger. , In later ages,
when the ancient fmaller kingdoms in theifland were formed,
into the two larger ones of Scotland and England, as the Che-
viot hills were a natural barrier between tbem in the middle
of the country, invafion and war were made by the mouth of
the Tweed on the E. and of the Solway on the W. ; yet
final! parties of the army often penetrated for plunder into
the interior parts. The' predatory difpofition, but too much
exemplified by the nations, was pra&ifed all over the coun-
try, and particularly toward the borders, where troops of
freebooters made incurfions into this part of the country every
fummer, for carrying off, under night, horfes, black cattle,
and deep. In defence againft thefe various depredations,
ftrong cafHes were built, by the kings of Scotland, on the
lower part6 of the Tweed, and were continued by the land-
holders along die higher parts of it, and on the waters which'
on
Of Peebles* II
ok each fide fall into it. They were built of ftone and line
prepared in the beft manner, aod where larger, or fituated
nigh the caftra of former times, they were called Caftlesy or
when fmaller, were called towers. They confided common-
ly of three ftories, the lower one on the ground floor vaulted,
into which the horfes and cows were brought in times of dan*
ger ; the great hall, in which the family lived $ and the higheft,
in which were the bed chambers, defigned for public as wejl
as for private fafety. They were, by general confent, built al-
ternately on both fides the river, and in tf oontinued view one
of another. A fire kindled on the top of thefe towers was
the known fign of an incurfion of the enemy. The fmoke
gave the fignal by day, and the flame in the night ; and over
a track of country of 70 miles long, from Berwick to the Bield,
and 50 miles broad, intelligence was, in this manner, convey-'
ed in a very few hours. As tbcfe buildings are not only anti-
quities, but evidences of the ancient fituation of the country t
and are now moft of them in ruins, it will not be improper to
mention thofe along the Tweed for ten milea below Peebles,
and as many above it. Thus, Elibank tower looks to one at
Hollowlee, this to one at Scrogbank, this to one at Caherr*
tone, this to one at Bold, this to one at Purvis hill, this to
thefe at Innerleithan, Traquair, and Grieftone, this laft to
one at Ormiftone, this to one at Cardrona, this to one at
Nether Horfburgh, this to Horfburgh caftle, this to thefe at
Hayftone, Cafilehill of Peebles and Needpath, this laft to one
at Caverhill, this to one at Barns, and to another at £yne9
this to thefe at Eafter Happrew, Eafter Dawic, Hillhoufe and
Wefter Dawic, now New Poffo, this laft to one at l)reva,
and this to one at Tinnis,or Thanes caftle near Drummelzier.
Of thefe the caftle of Needpath,- not far from the old town
of Peebles ; and in the line of its principal ftreet, is the ftrong*
eft one in the beft prefervatio*. Its walls are 11 feet in
B a- thickaefc,
I* ' Stati/ticat Account
thicknefs, and cemented with lime almoft as hard as the ftrong
whin ftone of which they are built. It was anciently the
property and chief refidence of the powerful family of the
Frafers, firft proprietors of Oliver cattle, and afterward of a
great part of the lands from that to Peebles, and fheriffs of
the County ; and from whom fpring the families of Lovat and
Saltoun, in the N. The laft of that family, in the male line,
in Tweeddale, was the brave Sir Simon Frafer, who in 1303,
along with Sir John Cummin, with only 10,000 men, repulfed
and defeated 30,000 Englifh in three battles fought on one
day en Rodin moor. He left two daughters co-heirefles to his
great eftate ; one of whom was married to the anceftor of the
Marquis of Tweeddale, and the other to the anceftor of the
Earl ot Wigton, which families, therefore, quartered the arms
of the Frafers with their own. And the tattle and large ba-
rony of Needpath continuing the property of the Tweeddale
family, and the town of Peebles much under its patronage,
the Frafers arms are to be feen on the crofs to this day. There
is good evidence, that Peebles and the neighbouring country,
have been confiderably populous for above a thoufand years,
and that they have been enlightened with the gofpel from a
ftill more ancient period ; and that in after ages they received
from the kings of Scotland, many expreffions of royal re-
gard and munificence. The firft teachers of Chriftiatiity in
Britain, were called, in the original Gaelic language, Kule
Dia or Culdees, that is, fervants of God, in diftiti&ion to
the former teachers of heathenifm, the Druids, and taught
the religion of the true God and our Saviour in much purity
and fimplicity for Tome centuries. When the ambitious bifhops
of Rome, in fucceflion to the empeiors, formed their deugn
of univerfel empire, various religious orders were inftituted,
and various religious houfes were built and endowed, in this,
as in the other nations in Europe, to increafe the votaries, |
riches,.
Of Peebles. ij
riches, and power of the Romifh hierarchy. The high church
of Peebles, dedicated to St. Mary, which, from the remains
of it in the church yard, was large enough to accommodate
the parifh at this time, i% reckoned to have been built, or ra-
ther rebuilt, in the nth century, when the churches were ge-
nerally rebuilt in a better manner, as from fome very old free-
ftone rebuilt in its walls, it is evident that it only fucceeded
to one that was greatly more ancient. To the chaplains of
St. Mary in Peebles, K. David granted the corn and wauk-
mills of Innerleithan, with the adjacent lands and very exten-
five multures.
On the difcovery of the remains of a human body that had
'been cut in pieces, and buried in a (hrine of ftone, and of a
crofs depofited near it, bearing the name of St. Nicolaus, it
was believed, that St. Nicolaus of the order of the Culdees,
and who was reckoned to have fuffered martyrdom tibout the
end of the 3d century, when the perfecution of the Chrifti-
ans under Dioclefian andMaximian raged in Britain, had been
buried in that place. About the year 1260, Alexander III.
at the requeft of William then bi&op of Glafgow, to which
diocefe Peebles belonged, erefted on that fpet a large conven-
tual church, dedicated to God and the holy crofs, and called
the Crofs Kirk of Peebles, as an account of its eredion ob*
twined in 1617, from records in St. John's college, Cam-
bridge, and in poffeffion of the magiflrates of Peebles, more
fully bears. It was built in the form of a fquare, with a
court in the middle, 124 feet by no over all. The church
formed the fouth fide of the fquare, and was 104 by 26 feet
within walls. The front wall was built with a fmall arch
over the fpot where the crofs and the remains of the Saint
were depofited ; fo that the religious, whether within or with-
out the church, might perform their devotions at the facred
ihrine* The fide walls were 22 feet in height, and the front
adorned
14 StaHfiical Account
adorned with 5 large Ciotbic windows. The other three fides
of the fquare formed the conrent, of which the fide walls
were 14 feet highland 16 feet diftant from each other, and
the ground floor "vaulted* It was of the order of churches
called Miniftrics, and contained 70 red or Trinity friars, an or-
der inftituted in honour of the Holy Trinity, and for the re-
demption of Chriftians who were made flaves by the Turks,
to which a third part of their yearly income was to be ap-
plied. Befides other endowments, its royal founder gave
to the Crofs Kirk, about 50 acres of excellent land lying all
around it. Friar Thomas its minifter, was chaplain to K.
Robert IV. who gave to it the lands called the King's Mea-
dow, juxta Pillam de Peb/isf which defcription makes it pro-
bable that Peebles was not as yet cre&ed into a burgh royal,
though the charters granted to it afterward, Jhow that it re-
ceived thfc honour foon after, either from that prince, or from
James I.
A mile and an half below Peebles flood the hofpital of
St. Leonards, called afterward by corruption, Chappel yards,
founded for infirm and indigent perfons. In 1427, James I.
gave this hofpital to his confeflbr David Rat, of the order of
the preachers ; a probable evidence that Jamea lived frequent-
ly at Peebles, and wrote there his poem, entitled, Peebles to
the Play, in which he represents a great annual feftival of
mufic, diverfions, and feafting, that had long been in ufe to
be held at Peebles, attended by multitudes from the Forth
and the Foreft, in their heft apparel. The time of this feftival
was at Beltein, which, in the Gaelic language, fignifies the
$re of Bell or Baal, becaufe on the firft day of May, our
heathen anceftors, by kindling fires and offering facrifices on
eminences or tops of mountains, held their great anniverfary
feftival in honour of the fun, whofe benign influences on all
mature begun to be ftrongly felt at this time, and men wiihed*
more
Of Peebles. 15
uorfe and more to fed as the fummer advanced. The name
Beltein-day, continued and gare defignation to theBeitcin fair
of Peebles, long after the religion of the country,, and the
feftivals of the feafon, were changed. Peebles is only to miles
fonth from Edinburgh, fituated'itfelf in a fine fporting coun-
try, and on the ftpight road to the King's Foreft of Etterick.
The kings of Scotland made Peebles their ufual fummer re-
treat, for rural diverfion or the adnrinift ration of juftice.
Many of the nobility accompanied them, whofe houfes in
Peebles Hill bear their names. Extcnfive lands all around, af-
terward granted by royal charter in- property or commonty
to the burgh. Cadmuir, Hornidoun, Venlaw, and Glentorie,
were the king's property and hunting grounds. The bridge
over the Tweed feems to have been built at different times,
and the whole ftru&ure to carry evidences of Gmilar anti-
quity, as the Crofs Kirk, and mod probably was erc&ed by
king and fubjetts, as being moft neceffary and convenient for
both. On the S. E. of Peebles, and other fide of the river, is
the gallows hill, where criminals were hanged. On the King's
moor, between that and Peebles, were the ancient tourna-
ments exhibited. There the county militia, amounting com-
monly to 300 horfemen, mutter every year at their weapon-
(hawing in June and O&ober. Their horfe races continued to
be held at Beltein, till the middle of the prefent century y and
hft year, wflfen a part of that moor was converted from its
original to a more improved fiate, in a cairn of ftones, was
found a Roman urn inVetted, containing the blade of his
dagger, and\ the afhes of feme ancient hero who had been
buried there. The town of Peebles originally extended from
Eddleftone water weft ward to the meadow wel/Jlrand, the crofs
ftanding oppofite to the Ludgate. It was feveral times plun-
dered and burnt by the Engliih ; fo that nothing was left un-
deftrpyed but the churches, the manfe, an<rthe crofs, which
being
l$ Statlfiical Account
being held facred, were commonly fparcd. This induced t}ie
principal inhabitants to build a new town on the £. fide of
that water, as being a fituation more eafily fortified, and to
furround it with ftrong walls and gates, which continued till
the two kingdoms were united* In confederation of thefe
great loffes, and that the town of Peebles bad always been
diftinguiJhed for loyalty, fidelity, and good ferrices, not only
the ufual privileges of royal burghs, but the extenfive lands
already mentioned, and a toll on the bridge of Tweed, were,
by royal charters, granted to it at the reformation of religion
in Scotland in the ij6o,f when the needlefs multiplicity of
churches, was abolifhed, and convents were di Solved. The high
church in the old town was demolifhed, and the crofs church,
as being nearer to the new town, was converted into the pa*
rochial one, and employed in the offices of reformed religion
till January 1784, when the new church having been built
within the town, was opened for religious worfhip by the pre-
fent incumbent. The clotfter was converted into houfes for
the fchoolmafters, and public fchools, and was ufed for thefe
purpofes to the beginning of this century, when it became
ruinous. In the year 1621, James VI. renewed and confirm*
ed all the rights, privileges, and lands granted to the burgb
by his royal predeceubrs : and whereas a number of churches, "
chapels, and altars had, in times of Popery, been ere&ed and
endowed by pious perfons, in honour of angels and faints, foe
the purpofe of faying mafs for the fouls of their own friends
deceafed, all thefe, with their revenues, his Majefty granted,
in all time thereafter, to the magiftrates, council and communi-
ty of Peebles, on condition of a finall annuity to be paid into
the Exchequer, and their offering their daily convent prayers to
Almighty God for his Majefty arid his fucceffors. In times of
Epifcopacy, the minifter of Peebles was Archdcan of Glaf-
gow, parfon of Peebles and 'Mannor, and had the parfonage-
tithef
0/PeibUsi *jr
titHed df both parifhes, then worth 6000 nlerks yearly. The
k Vicar in Peebles had the glebe of 80 acres, ftill called the Kirk-
lands, though at the Reformation very little of thefe lands
were left to the church, together with the vicantge^tithes.
part of which is giveii by the patrdn of the parifli to the mas-
ter of the grammar*fchool. At the Reformation, and after-
ward, when the lands and revenues of the church were dif-
pofed of to other pttrpofes, it would have been wifer to hav$
referved a proper portion of thefe lands for the tonftant fup*
port of the parochial clergy, a fmallet part of it to be occu-
pied by themfelves, and the reft to be let by them for their
life. This would have been a better provifion for the efta-
bliihed clergy, than either the iffa corpora tithes* which are
Often a check to agricultural improvements, and a bone of
contention between the pallor and people, or ftipends modified
tint of thefe tithes, which decreafe m value as the expefifis elf
living increafes. The fmall legal glebe of 4 acres of arable
land, when ploughed by the parifhioners, as was formerly the*
Cafe, might be fome advantage to the midifter. Now, when
he muft keep two horfes and a fervant to cultivate' it, it is a
lofs, in place of a gain. Whereas, if every minified in the
Church of Scotland, having a country pariih, had been pro*
vided in a glebe of td or 30- acres, he wouldj without either
lofs to himfelf, or avocation from the facred duties of his ok
fice, have directed the proper culture of it, and generally
would have fet an example of improvement in every pariih,
which would have been followed, and proved of great and ge*
sural advantage to the country;
Vox.. XII< C HVH*
iS Statijllcal Account
NUMBER IL
PARISH or DALKEITH.
(CoutfTr or Edinburgh, Synod of Lothian and Tweed-
dale, Presbytery of Dalkeith.)
by the Rev. Mr. William Scott.
tiame, Extent, l$c.
THE name of this parifh is faid to be derived from the
Gaelic language, and fignifies *' a plain Ctuated be.*
" tween two rivers." If this be fo, it is perfe&ly defcrip-*
tive of the Situation of the village, which ftands on a narrow
ftrip of land between two rivers, both known by the name of
Elk, the banks of which are beautifully wooded, and embel-
lished with the feats of feveral families of the firft diftin&ion.
The extent of the parifti is vety moderate, as it nowhere ex-
ceeds 2 miles, either in breadth or length. The foil is vari-
ous, but, in general, the lower grounds are light, and inclin-
ing to fand, and the higher, of a pretty deep clay. The whole
of the parifh is arable, except a little on the banks of the ri-
vers, which, for the mod part, are deep, and beautifully frin-
Of Dalkeith. 1 9
ged with wood. The foil produces every kind of grain, and
is well adapted for railing every fpecies of forefl. trees, which
arrive here at great perfection. There are no mountains nor
hills in the parifh : indeed almoft the whole of it might be
confidered as a plain, did not the Apep banks of the rivers give
it, in fome places, an uneven and broken appearance*
Farms, and Rent of Land, — The farms are few in number,
and neither large nor extenfive. This is owing to a nraltil
plicity of portioners, who either farm their own land, or let
it out to gardeners, who pay a high rent for it. Agriculture
is well underftood, not only in the parifti, but in the whole
country around, and has attained a high degree of perfection.
Materials for the improving of land are at no great diftance,
as lime may be procured in abundance in the neighbourhood,
and the village affords a coniiderable quantity of excellent ma-
nure. The rent of land here is, in general, high. Meadow,
or pafture ground, when inclofed, lets at from 3 1, to 5 1. the-
Scotch acre, according to its quality or vicinity to the village.
Thofe farms which lie in the remoteft parts of the pariib, are
let, fome of them at 1 1., fome at 1 1. 15 s., and others at % L
the acre, in proportion to the* quality of the foil. Land that
has been under the plough, is, at prefent, picked up with a-
vidity by gardeners, and brings from 3 1. 3 s. to 5 1. 10 s.
yearly, according as the leafe granted happens to be of a long-
er or dorter duration. When there is any land in the mar-
ket here, it fells at from 50 1. to 100 1. the acre, in propor-
tion to its quality or local fituation \*ith refpeft to the vil-
lage* The pariw contains a coniiderable quantity of coal, but
as it lies fo deep in the earth, that it cannot, in general, be
come at with advantage to the proprietors, without the help
of fire engines, there is little of it wrought at prefent. The
inhabitants, however, fuffer no inconvenience from this cirT
C % cumftancet
ft . Stati/tical Account
fumftance, as they are plentifully fupplied from a variety of
$oal-pit9y with which the pariih is furrouoded. The ordinaT
tj price of this neceflary article, is from Jjd. to 3rd. the
cwt. according to its quality ; but during the courfe of la$
winter, it was much highes^ on account of an univerfal fear*
city, and an additional rife of price at the pits*
Mar iet j. -rWitb refped to inarkets, the pariih is very
tonveniently fituated. One of the mod confiderable, perhaps
fhe greateft market for grain of any in Scotland, is held in
Palkeith every Thurfday, to which is brought, a very great
quantity of oats (in particular) from all the neighbourhood,
and efpecially from this fouth country. If is remarkable, that
jail the grain fold here brings ready money; a cirpumftance of
much importance to the farmers, who generally purchafe heref
fuch articles as fhey fjofl neceflary for th^mfelyes and their
families, before they leaye the town. A great proportion of
the grain and meal fold at palkeith, goes to the fupply of the
weft country, about Carron, Glafgow, and Paifley. Froo}
Martinmas till about Whitfunday, there is likewife a market
for meal, every ^londay, jand one for cattle, every Tuefday.
We have alfo an annual fair h$ld on the third Tuefliay of
Prober fbrliorfes and black cattle, fee. This fair, it is (aid,
was formerly of much more eonfequence, and better attended
than it is at prefent t .
Population*
* Price* ami Wa&s~~T\x yi}tage. if abundantly fupplied with excellent bot-
cher meat* which may he had in great perfection oo the fhuridays, and Satur-
days. The batchers here contribute confiderabJy to the fupply of the Edinburgh
market, and (bine of them fell there the whole of what they kilL During the
feafon of winter and fpring, the price of beef ja 4 d. the lb. avoirdupois, veal s<t»
muttym 5d^ and pork 4<L From the month of September till about the middle
of January, the price of beef and mutton, is 3d- or 3 \ <L the pound, but during
{he reft pf the year, it ii cot lower than what ha* been mentioned above. In the
{ummtf
0/ Dalkeith. »f
PopuIdtton—*-htcotdit\g to Dr. Webfter's report, the num«
fcer of fouls at that time was 31 jo. The pariih contains 1094
families, of which about 50 refide in the country, and alt
the reft in the villages of Dalkeith, Lugton, and Bridgend*
Of thefe, there are at prefent, including journeymen and ap«
prentices,
Weavers, » j6 Hammermen (including
Shoemakers, - 6a mafons, wrights* &c«), 99
Tailors, 44 Clergymen, - 5
Dyers, - * 1* Students at the Univerfity, 3
Gardeners, - 53 Carters, * 60 or 70
Butchers, . - 30 Farmers, ~ u
Candlemakers (befides *p- Bakers, 36
prentices) - J Brewers (befides journey-
|>ra&itianers in phyfic, 6 men and apprentices), 4
Weavers (not incorporat- Uairdreficrs, - 5
ed), - - Zt Watchmakers, - %
The number of fouls amounts to 4366. The annual ave-
rage of marriages, births, and burials, is as follows :— Mar*
pages 3a, births 134, burials 124. This ftatement of births,
however, is by no means complete, as many of the duTenters
neglect to regifter the baptifms of their children. There is
good rcafon for fuppofing that there may be 30 c* 40 chil*
tfren born here annually t whofe births are not regiftered.
Manufa&ures.
summer feafan chickens fell at about Set the pair, and hens from i6d. to i9cL
In ibmmer the price of batter U 10 d. the lb. Batter ij fold here by tron weight
a*oz. to the lb., and in winter, it rifts fometimes to 1 s. or I *• 1 d^The wages of
labourers in husbandry, during the fummer feafon, are from is. to is. 3d. the
flay. Mowers receive from 1 s. 8 d. to 2 s. Gardeners from j s« a d. to x s. 6 d. I»
printer, common labourers receive from 8<L to lodn and gardeners is. The
pages of domeitic femaje ferrants, a-year, are from »L {os. (04!.
$3 St at if tic al Account
Manufactures.— Though the fituation of this parifh appears
to be peculiarly favourable for manufactures, yet there is
little done in that way. The only articles worth mentioning,
ore, a tannery, a foap«work, and the making of candles, which
have juftly acquired a high character* Mr. Ruffin, too, erect-
ed a tambour manufacture here in February 1790. He in-
dentured no girls as apprentices, from 9 to 12 years of age,
befides 4 boys. He alfo erected, at the fame time, a manu-
facture of the fame kind at MufTelburgh, and had 22 appren-
tices bound on the fame day. Thefe apprentices are bound
for 4 years, and are paid as follows : — For the firft year, they
have 2 s. a- week paid them every Saturday ; for the fecond,
ts. 66, a- week; and for the laft 2 years, they have 3s. week-
ly. Mr v- Ruffin was the firft who introduced this branch of
manufacture into Scotland, in the year 1782, under the pa-
tronage of the Honourable Board of Truftees in Edinburgh,
from whom he received three different premiums, one of 40 10
one of 30 1., and one of 20 1., bcfides his houfe rent paid
him for three years. This branch of bufinefs is now fo much
increafed, that it employs not fewer than 30,coo young girU
in Scotland.
Heritors^ Church, Manfey Stipend, Poor, Schools. — The num-
ber of heritors is 24. The whole of the pariih holds ef the
Duke of Baccleugh, who is proprietor of about two-thirds of
it. His Grace is alfo patron and titular of the teinds. The
church, though old, is in good repair, and in winter is ren-
dered comfortable, by being warmed with ftoves. The manfe,
which appears from an infcription over the door, to have
been built in the year 1681, is a large, lodgeable houfe, but
badly fituated, and fo gloomy as to refemble a prifon, being
Jiemraed in with buildings on three fides, and deprived of the
|>enefit of fun-fhine for nearly the wfyole winter half year.
It
Of Dalkeith. *$
It is believed that the various reparations which it has un-
dergone, have coft as much as would hav/e been fufficient to
build an excellent new houfe on a more defirable fituatioru
The ftipend is 95 1. ; but there is a profpeS of its being fooa
augmented, as the patron * with his ufual public fpirit, has
generoufly propofed it, though the whole burden of the aug-
mentation falls on himfelf. The glebe is about 6 acres, all
arable, and from its vicinity to the village, is, on that ac-
count, the more valuable.-— As the parifh is populous, fo the
poor are proportionably numerous. A good many of them
receive a weekly allowance from the kirk-funds, of which
the kirk-feffion has the management. Thofe who receive fup-
ply in this manner, may, at an average, be about 16 or 18
jn the fummer feafon ; but < in winter, their number is com-
monly greater, as at that time of the year, fuch of them as
have health and ability to labour a little in the fields, find no
employment. Be fides the money arifing from the weekly
collections at the church doors, which, at an average, is about
15 s, or 16s. a-week, the kirk-feffion has the management
of the rents of a few acres of land, and fome fmall feu-duties
belonging to the poor, the amount of which is about 30 1.
Sterling a*year« To this may be added, the money arif-
ing from the loan of mortcloths, which is, communibus annis9
about 24!. There is like wife a charity workhoufe belonging
to the pa rim, in which a con fide r able number of poor are
lodged, fed, and clothed. There are at prefent in the houfe,
about 23 or 24, but fometimes there are 40 and upwards*
To fupport thefe poor, the khk-felfion pays annually, the
fum of 40 1. Sterling, the heritors 50 L, and a. contribution
by the inhabitants produces about 45 1. yearly. There is a
houfekeeper to fuperintend the poor in the houfe; and the ac-
counts are carefully kept by a treafurer appointed for the
pufpofe, and regularly examined, every month, by a com*
, . mittce
$4 Statiflical Account
mittcc of managers, who are annually chofen from the kirtU
feffion, trades, merchants, and heritors. In the years fj8§
and 1783, the poor of this place were in great diftrefs ; bat
the liberal donations of her Grace the Ducbcfc of Bacclengh9
and Robert Craig, Efq. greatly contributed to enable the
kirk-feffion to relieve the poor, both of their own, and other
congregations. In juftice to both thefe diftinguiflied charac-
ters, it ought to be obfervcd, that their attention, humanity*
end liberality to the poor of this place, hare, at no time,
been wanting. The charity of the family of Boccleugh, ixt
particular, is worthy of the higheft rank and moil opulent
fortune— —The grammar fchool here has long been in high
repute, and at one period was confidered as the firft in the
kingdom* It has produced fomc of the greeted geniufes, and
brighteft ornaments of the age ; fomc of the moft diftinguifl**
ed characters in the literary* and political world, having here
received the rudiments of their education. A confiderable
time ago, it feemed to be on the decline, owing to a variety
of cauies, which it is unneceflary to enumerate ; but the me-
rit and abilities of the late and prefent refiors, have done
much to reftore it to its former reputation. The teaching
room is large, pleafant, well aired, and inferior to none cm
this fide of the Tweed, in point of convenience and accom-
modation. A confiderable number of young gentlemen are!
boarded with the re&or, who pays unwearied attention to
their health, morals, and education. They amount, at pre-
fent, to 20 or upwards ; and when the mailer's houfe flball be
enlarged, of which there is no very diftant profpeft, there is
no doubt that there will be many more. The falary is about
33 1. Sterling ; befides which, there is a very good dwelling**
houie, and a large garden. There are likewife 4 Engiiik
fchools here, all of which are well attended. The principal
EngiiQi mailer, who teaches geometry, navigation, and draw-4
A
Of Dalkeith. ~ 2S
fbg, has had, at an average, for 10 jears paft, sot fewer
than 80 or ioo fcholars almoft conftantly under his care.
SeBariet.— In this parifli there is a great number of difc
{enters of various denominations. Thofe of the Burgher,
Antiburgher, Relief, and Methodiftical perfuafions, hare all of
them their refpc&ive places of vrorfliip in Dalkeith, to which,
as to a common centre, they aflenftle from all the country
round. Thofe of the Relief congregation are by far the moft
numerous* Next to them rank the Burghers, then the Anti-
burghers ; and the Methodifls are inferior to them all in point
of numbers. There is likewife one family of Cameronians,
and another of Anabaptifts. Notwithflanding this great din
rerfity of opinions, which prevails among the inhabitants in
matters of religion, they live together, at leaft as far as is
known to the writer of this account, in the pra&ice of that
Charity, meeknefs, and moderation, which the Chriftian reli-
gion requires of all its profeflbrs. There may, no doubt, be
fome here, as elfe where, addi£ted to cenfure, calumny, and
detra&ion $ but the number of fuch, it i$ hoped, is very in-
confiderable,
Dalkeith CaJHef Houfe, \$c. — The only thing under the ar-
ticle of antiquities, worthy of being mentioned, is the Caftle
of Dalkeith, which formerly occupied the fame fpot where
now ftands Dalkeith Houfe, the principal feat of his Grace
the Duke of Buccleugh *. About the beginning of the pre-
Vol. XII. P fent
• In ancient .times, it appears to have been a place of cpnfidcrable ftrength,
and to have flood fome fieges. It was fituated on a perpendicular rock of great
height, and inacceilible on all fides, except on the eaft, where it was defended
by a foflfc, through which the river is faid to have formerly run. It was, for
fome centuries, the principal refidence of the noble family of Morton ; and hifto-
f7 records, that James IX, and laft Earl of Douglas, e*afperated againft John
Douglatj
&6 Satiftical Account
fcnt century, a very magnificent houfe was built on the fite of
the old cattle, by Ann Duchefs of Buccleugh and Monmouth* /
The fbffe* already mentioned, which guarded the caflle on the
eaft, was filled up, and a large mound of forced earth raifed
around the rock. It is now a pleafant bank, and adorned
with a variety of delightful fhrubs. The beauty of the fitua-
tion, which is defervedly admired, is greatly heightened by
the windings of the rivers, and the abundance of thriving
wood with which it is furrounded. The Duke has lately .
built an elegant bridge of beautiful white (lone over the North
Elk, which is a great addition to the furrounding fcenery,
and forms a fine object, when feen, as it is in great per fed ion,
from the windows of the houfe. It confifts of one large arch,
70 feet wide, and 45 in height* By means of this bridge, a
new approach will be opened to the houfe, and one of the moft
delightful that can be imagined. The park in which Dal-
keith Houfe is fituated, is of great extent, containing about
800 Scotch acres. It is completely furrounded by a wall built
\vith ftotie and lime, and about 8 or 9 feet high. There is a
great
!
bougla*, Lord of Dalkeith, for efpouflng the caufe of King James IT., who had
bafely murdered William VIII., Earl of the illuflrious Houfe of Douglas at Stir.
ling, laid fiege to the caftle of Dalkeith, binding himfelf by a folemn oath, not 1
to defift till he had made himfelf mafter of it. It was, however, fo gallantly de- |
fended by Patrick Cockburn and Glerkington, that the Earl of Douglas, and his i
followers, after undergoing much toil, and receiving many wounds, found them-
felves unable to reduce it, and were obliged to raife the fiege, On the defeat,
of the Scotch .army at Pinkie, Anno Dom. Z547, many fled to the caftle of Dal-
keith for refuge, among whom was James Earl of Morton, afterward regent of |
Scotland, and Sir David Hume of Wedderburn. It was befieged by the Englifb,
and defended for fome time; but as it contained not a fufficient ftore of provifions
for fuch a number of men as had fled to it, and as the befieged had no hopes of
fuccour againft the victorious army, it was obliged to furrender ; in confequence
of which, the Earl and Sir David were made prifoners.
In the year 1*42, the eftate of Dalkeith came into the ,poffeffion of the Fa*
mily of Buccleugh by purchafe from the Earl of Morton* #
Of Dalkeith, 37
great variety of excellent wood id it, particularly a number
of fine venerable oaks of great antiquity ; but fevefal of them
begin to experience the effe&s of time, and are feeming to de-
cay. The North and South Eik run through the park, and
unite their winding dreams abcfut half a mile below Dalkeith
Houfe. , Both thefe rivers produce fine trout, eels, and fame-
times falmon. The banks are cut into walks of great extent*
with much tafte, and are the delight of every vifitant. There
is in the park a confiderable number of deer and fheep. The
fit nation of the village of Dalkeith is allowed to be uncom-
monly beautiful. It Hands in the heart of a rich country ;
the two rivers which run fo neat it on the N. and S. with
the fine woods on their banks, render it a pleafant abode.
This account ought not to clofe without mentioning a little
fpot of peculiar beauty, about a quarter of a mile from the
village, where an elegant houfe has been lately built, which
does much honour to the tafte of the proprietor. A fituatioa
more truly delightful can fcarcely be imagined. It com-
mands a view of the pleafure grounds of four of the fined
country feats in the country, of the Fritb of Forth, the Fife
Cbaft, the Pentland andMoorfit hills ; while, immediately un-
der the windows, the windings of the North £fk are feen in
full perfe&ion.
P * NUM.
a* Statiftical Account
NUMBER III.
PARISH or PETTINAIN.
(County of Lanark, Synod or Glasgow and Air, Prk-
sytery of Lanark.)
By the Rev. Mr. Jamks Ferguson.
Situation, Extent, Surface, Climate, \3c-
^X1 HIS is one of the fmalleft parilhes in this part of Scot-
-*- land, and affords but little fcope for ftatiftical obfer-
vation. Tne parifh of Libberton bounds it on the E., thofe
of Carnwath and Carftairs on the N., and that of Lanark on
the N. W. Thefe parifties are fituatcd on the oppofite fide of
the river Clyde, excepting a fmall part of the haugh ground
belonging to Libberton. Upwards of fixty acres belonging to
Pettinain are likewife, at different places, thrown on the other
fide of the river. The frequent changes of its courfe has, tnoft
probably, been the caufe of this inconvenient fituatioil. Its
figure is irregular, but may be confidcred as a rectangle, near*
ly 3 miles long, and * broad: About 1700 acres are, in their
cotufey
OfPrttinain. i&gj
•courfe, employed in tillage : the remaining part, which may
be nearly of the fame extent, is either coarfe pafture-ground ,
and mofs, or is covered with plantations of trees. The church
and village are fituated towards the N. E> extremity of the
parifli, about half a mile from the neareft part of the river ;
5t miles to the eaftward of Lanark, and 7 miles to the north,
weftward of Biggar. There is only one hill in the parifli
that divides itfelf into. two fummits, which are fometimes
diftiaguiihed by the names of Pettinain and Weft raw hills.
The laft, and moft wefterly of thefe is the higheft, and rifes
about 500 feet above the level of Clyde, and about 1000 feet
above that of the tea. ; The other part of the hill extends it-
felf, in a long bending ridge, towards the S., and runs into
the neighbouring pariih of Covington. Thefe high grounds
are.moftly covered with fhort heath, intermixed, in feveral
^places, with bent, and other coarfe grafs. This gives them a
bleak appearance, and renders them, comparatively, of fmall
value. A large track of moorifli and mofiy ground lies im-
mediately behind the hill, on the S.; and in fuch a high fitu-
ation, that it would not be advifable to attempt to cultivate
any part of it. The reft of the lands in the parifh, which lie
lower, are generally of much better quality, and more agree-
able appearance. The haughs, or holms, belonging to this
and the neighbouring pariihes on the oppofite fide of the river,
are very extenfive ; and are clad in beautiful verdure during
*he fumrner months. The Clyde, which has formed thefe
haughs, by depofiting its mud, and which, by its frequent in-
undations, annually enriches them, adds greatly to their beau-
ty, by its various windings. The grounds, interpofed be-
tween thefe haughs and the hill, are finely diversified by beau-
tiful fwells. The extenfive plantations of Weftraw, and the
hedges, which feparate or fubdivide the farms, give a plea-
fing look of cultivation to this part of the parifli. The weft
and
jjo Statijtical AccoUnt
and fouth parts are likewife much beautified by fmall plants*
lions at Weftownand Clow burn, and by the hedges and other
fences, which enclofe a great proportion of the low grounds.
Part of the enclosures belonging to Carmichael, one of the
feats of the Earl of Hjndford, falls within the boundary of
this" pari(h on the S. W. and greatly improves its appearance
in that quarter. From the height of the ground, the air mud
be cold and penetrating. The river, where it runs flowly, is
frequently frozen over for feveral weeks together, in a fevere
winter. The froft is, probably, rendered more intenfe by the
mooriQi and wet lands, which lie around the fkirts of the hill,
as well as by the river itfelf. In the year 1782 and 17849
the crop was greatly damaged by it.
River, Fijby t5^.~ The Clyde, which rifes about 25 miles
to the fouthward, is here fwelled into a large river. Along
the upper part of the haugh-grounds, it runs with a pretty
rapid current ; but, about 2 miles below, its motion becomes
much flower, and its depth increafes. For feveral miles down-
wards, except in a few places, it continues very deep, and
makes many beautiful windings through the haughs. About
half a mile before it leaves the parifhr, it rufhes with an im-
petuous torrent over the rocks which lie in its bed. In the
upper part of this courfe, there are feveral good fords ; but
they are often rendered impaffable, especially in winter, by
the heavy rains, or melting of fnow. In fuch cafes, the com-
munication to the eaftward is by the bridge at Thankertpn,
in the parifh of Covington, which is at the diftance of 2£
miles from the village of Pettinain. This very ufeful bridge
was built about 14 years ago, by voluntary fubfcription, and
coft upwards of 700 1. The country, on this . account, is
much indebted to the public-fpirited exertions of the clergy-
man who was then miniiler of that parifli, and of fome of
the
; Of Teltinain. %i
the neighbouring farmers. Hyndford bridge, which is placed
about the fame diftance weftward, opens a ready paflage to
Lanark, and other places in that quarter. The inundations
of Clyde, though, in general, they undoubtedly fertilize the
adjoining haughs, are hurtful at particular feafons. In the
fpring, the ploughed ground is, fometimes, fo much wafhed
and fmoothed, that the feed cannot be fufficiently covered ; in
fome places, where the current is ftrong, the foil is fwept
away ; the feed is frequently difplaced, and laid in the fur-
yows. The funimer floods, by covering the paftnre-grafo
with fand or mud, make it unfit for the cattle, till it be waih-
ed by the rains* But the greateft damage is fuflained when
the corns are in the ftiort-blade, immediately after the ear be-
gins to make its appearance. A high flood, at that time, de-
stroys, in a great meafure, the crop. The farmers are care-
ful to prevent the lofs that might be occaiioned from inunda*
tions in harveft, by removing the corns, as they are cut down,
to higher grounds. Trout of a large fire, and delicate tafte,
abound in this part of the Clyde. They afe often caught
about 20, and fometimes even 39 inches long. The red co-
loured are preferred to the white. The deepeft places of the
N river produce, likewife, pike and perch. The beft feafon for
catching large trout with the rod, is reckoned to be from the
middle to the end of June.
■ Soil, Agriculture, Produce, \3c. — The lands in the parifh
are very different in quality. A confiderable part of them id
moorifh and fpongy on the furface ; and as this kind of foil
readily imbibes the rain, fe, when it lies upon a clayey till,
which, in many places, is the cafe here, it retains it long,
and continues wet through a great part of the year. The
grounds which- form the (loping fides of the hill, are moflljp
tf this fort ; and cannot be cultivated by the plough to any
confiderable
J 3 Stati/iical Account*
tionfiderable advantage. Some parts of them, however, are
more clayey, and yield pretty good crops : Other parts, which
have a gravelly bottom, are dry and light ; and though they
do not give very plentiful returns, are more to be depended
on than the wet lands. But the greater part of the arable
ground, which lies towards the river, is of a dry and good
foil. Near the village it is a rich loam, inclining, in fome
places, to day. Towards the N. £., it becomes light and
fendy. In the weft end of the parifli, it is partly fandy, and
partly clayey ; and, in the Clowburn lands, it is, in fome
places, gravelly and fharp, in others, foft and mixed with
clay or mofs. The bottom of thefe arable grounds is vari-
ous ; fand, clayey till, or gravel. jBy proper management
they may all be made to produce good crops. The foil of
the haughs or holms is a mud which the river has brought
down from the higheft parts of the country. In general, it
appears to have a confiderable proportion of clay in its com*
pofition, from its adhefive quality when it is moiftened by
rain or the overflowing of the river* The depth of this mud
is various, from 2 to 7 or 8 feet. Below it, there is gene-
rally found fuch a ftratum of gravel and fmall ftones, as lies
in the fords. This ftratum may, perhaps, ferve the purpofo
ef a drain to the haughs, which are generally dry. A An-
gular fad feems to fupport this conje&ure. A large haugh,
towards the weft end of the parifli, is not fo dry as the other
grounds of this kind, nor do the crops ripen fo foon upon i^
as lipon them. The foil of that haugh is not depofited upon
a ftratum of gravel, but of mofs, which probably imbibe*
the water of the river, and communicates an uncommon de*
gree of moifture to the fuperincumbent mud.
The mode of farming is not very different from what it
Was 10 or 30 years ago. Men are naturally attached to 0I4
guftoms i and it requires fome time, and repeated ©bferva*
tiont
Of Pdtinain. 33
tidn, to be convinced' of the propriety of changing them for
riew ones* Improvements in agriculture, however, when real
and lading, are gradually communicated and adopted. The
attentive former fees it to be \n& intereft to imitate the prac-
tice of thofe of his neighbours who turn their lands to better
account ; and he learns, by experience, to follow that plait'
which is bell fuited to the foil and climate of his oWn grounds*
There afe feveral very judicious farmers in this parifh and'
its neighbourhood, who have introduced many fiibftantial im-
provements, and whofe example will have its proper influence
upon others.. It is ftill, however, the praftifce with many to
lay all their dung upon* the croft-land; except what the out**
field may redbive by folding, or in the criurfe of pafture ; to*
take 1 ctops of oats, and 1 of Barley (or beer) * 'from tha
former, and 3 or 4 ctops of oats rtfnning from the latter {
and to lay out their grbuhd without fowing any grafs-feeds.
Too little attention, likewife, is paid to the killing of quick*
grafe and other rioxioui weed?. A great part of the landrf
here is Well adapted to the culture of turnip and*' potatoes*
This has been carried bn, for fbme year*, to a fmall extent ;
and the good efie&s of it, m cleaning the ground, and pre-
paring it for barley and grafs-feeds, ought to render it more
prevalent. The turnip are employed in feeding milch-cows,
once, or, at moft, twice a-day, upon the fading of the paf«*
tnre grafs after barveft. When given Qftener; they impart &
4ifagreeable tafte to the milk and butter : but this may be,
in a great meafure, prevented, by mixing with the milk,
when it is put warm into the veffels, a fmall quantity of fait-
petre difiblved in water. They are, likewife, very ufefully
employed in rearing young black cattle, and in fattening for
Vol. XII. E the
* Barley is the name ufualJy given to a better kind of grain that is not muck
fcwn in this higher part of the country ; and the inferior fort that if more ge.
pexaily cultivated, is called beer or rovgb ben.
34 Stdtifiiofl Actourit
the butcher ; but (o fmali a quantity has hitherto been raifed-
here, that little attention has been paid to the lad of thefc
objeds, .though, in other places, it has ju/Uy been reckoned
a very important one. The potatoes are either confumed at
home, or fent to Lanark, where they bring from 5 s* to 6$.
the bol}.. They are found to he an excellent food both for
horfes and black cattle. Formerly they were ajmoft qniverT
fally planted with the foot-dibble ; but thip work is upw geT
nerally done with the plough, in the drill- way. The haughr
ground js generally ploughed g, and fpmetime* 4 years, for
oats, and then allowed to lie as long in natqra} grais. UfualT
ly if getf no ojher manure but what it receives from the caw
tie in pattering, or from phc mpd or flime, which is left upon
jf by the inundation; of the river. Sqme very fuccefsful ex*
periments were lately made \y manuring a part of if with
dung and lime. The .crops were greatly improved by this
$ew treatment. Excellent wheat and barley have been raifed
^pon it. PeaCe are reckoned a precarious crop, in this part
of the country ; yet they axe fpmejimes fown, with *dvanr
tpge, upon fliarp and clayey grpund** Be*?*s are feldom plant-
ed, and only in particular fppt* of ri$h clayey land. Flax
thrives well if many places of the parjfl). 1% is common to
hfive 4, and eyen 5 ftones of fentched lint from a peck*. It
is not, ^owevet, <}f fuch a fine quality a? in the lower parts
#f the comity y and it is juftly reckoned a fevere crop. Se-
veral plough made after the mode) of Mr. Small's, and
drown by a horfes, are nqw ufed here. They are found to
be well adapted to the foil of the haugh?, and to all ground
that is free of ftones. Iq cparfe and ftony land, the common
jplough is found to anfwex better. The number of farms may
^e reckoned 16, befides fmaU poffeffions : but one of thefe is
rented by a farmer who lives in a neighbouring parifh j and
another was lately thrown into grafs. The principal crops
art
Of Pettinain. 35
6te oats, barley or beer, and potatoes. Of oats, the befi croft
land may be reckoned to yield from 8 to xa bolls (Linlithgow
meafure) the acre ; the haugh or holm ground from 3 to 6
bolls ; and the other outfield ground from a to 4* ' An acre
df bat ley (*hat is here tailed beer) gives from 8 to 13 bolls,
of land that has been properly cleared of weeds, and other-
wife1 prepared ; of the foul land, from 6 to 9 bolls. From
40 to 8b bolls of potatoes, planted generally without dung
upon the Croft-land, is reckoned a good return from the acre.
The produce of an acre of peafe Varies from a to 8 bolls.
Wheat has been tried with fome advantage, in a favourable
feafoh ; but the fituation of the ground feems to be too high,
and the frofts too feVere, to allow its being cultivated to any-
great extent. The fowing of grafs-feeds has increafed of
late; and the good crops of hay that have been produced, give
reafon to hope that a ftill greater proportion of land will be
employed in this manner. Two crops of hay have generally
been taken from the fmatl fields that were laid Sown with
{own grafs, after which they were pallured for a or 3 years :
But a fpecies- of rye-grafs has lately got into the country,
which continues only for x year, and which often difconcerts
this plan. Many of the farms here are remarkable for pro*
ducing good butter and oheefe ; and perhaps there i$ not a
greater quantity produced from t|ie fame extent of ground in
afiy place of this country. The pafture on the haugh* is un-
doubtedly very rich : and much attention is paid both to tha
breed of the cows, and management of their milk.
The horfes are of a large fixe, and very fit for draught. A
few are annually fold, at good prices. The number of work-
horfes may be reckoned about 90 ; and of young horfes 44.
That of the black cattle, of all ages, 366 ; and that'of theep
about 450. Thefe numbers may vary a little occasionally.
The valued rent of tfye parifh is x j7cL 8d. Scoter. The rea\
£ 2 xeftt
$6 Statiftical Account
rent may be nearly 900 1. Sterling* The yearly rent of as
fere of arable ground may be reckoned from 25 s* down to 53./
according to its quality*.
Population. — The return to Dr. Webfter in 1755, was 33c
There is reafon tq think that the number of inhabitants ha*
decrcafed fince the beginning of the current century. It ap~
pears, from ap old regifter, that the average number of hap-
tifms in a year was then x 1 £. About 30 years ago it was 9 ;
and, for 12 years paft, it has been nearly 4f. .The account
which dm oldeft perils give of the ftate of the pariih in their
youth, fnpports this conje&ure. The farms, by being in*
created in fire, have decreafed in number 5 and many cotta-
ges have been ctemoliihed. In 1780, when an exa£t lift was
taken, the total number was 409 ; At the prefent time (May
J 7 92), it is only 386. Of this number of perfons there are*
Under to y*arc of
*g«*
94
Of whon» tjiewi are,
From 10 to 20,
m
«7
Males,
180
— — 20 tO 50^
•»
»44
Females,
*o$
— 50 to 70,
V
44
•*—
Xbove 70,
m
»7
The number of families is 77 $ the average number of per*
feus in a family, therefore, is 5. In the village, which con-*
tain*
• Triee of Labour, "fcV.— The wages of fervants and day-labourers have
tifen coniideraMy of late, from the great encouragement that has been ghretv
a£ the iroo-fbundery in the neighbouring pariih of Carnwath, at the cotton*,
mamifiaAure near Lanark, and other great works* For particulars, lee the ao>»
count of the neighbouring pariih of libberton. The demolishing of the cot-
tages may juftly be redeemed one great caufe of the increafed price of labour^
in this part of the country, By this- the number of hands has been dimi nifficd»
from other caufes, the demand for them ha? become greater.
3
Of Pettinmn. 37
tains 26 families, and no perfons, it is about At : In the
country parifh, which includes 27#iH*rfoiisf who refide in 51
feparate houfes, it is nearly $\. This difference nrifiss from
the numerous families of fome of the farmers, who live in
the country part of the parifli. The number of married per-
fons is 84 ; that of widowers and widows 18.
The great part of the people are employed in farming, or
in occupations relative to it. At prefent, die number of pro*
felled farmers, or of fuch as may be faid to live by this bnfi*
nefe, is only 14 ; and of thefe fome poflefe but finall farms.
The Servants which they ufually employ, are about 6o» But
befides thefe, there U a confideraUe number of perfons who
have fmall pofleffions of land, and who follow, at the fame
time, fome other employment. There are, likewife, a few
tradefmen, fuch as are ufually employed in the country;
wrights, mafpns, weavers, and fhoemakexs. Of tbefe the
weavers are the moil numerous, amounting, with journey*
men and apprentices, to 11 or 1a. Some of them are em*
ployed in the cotton mauufafture, and life the fly-fhuttk.
The inhabitants are generally healthy; and many attain to a
great age. Very lately there were 5,andftillthere are 4 per.
fons above 80 years j % of them near to 87. A fewyears agok
a, man died about the age of 9a, who had been bred a mafon,
and had r elided, in this parifl* till a Abort time before his death.
He was fo ftottt and healthy, at the age of 86, that he was
able to work, for fome time) at his particular occupation.
The health and longevity of the people may be owing, in
fome degree, to their being much employed in the open air*
Stomach complaints, however, rheumatifm, and confumptions,
are not unfrequent ; and the fmalUpox and meafles carry off
a nuaaber of the young. Inoculation for the fmalUpox has
not yet becomt general, though it has been very fuccefsful
wherever it was tried. The houfes in the village, and over
* great
38 Statiftical AccHnt
great port of tht partfh, are generally pretty neat aftd cottf-
modious. This muft contribute to the health, as toll as to
the comfort of the inhabitants.
- Poor.— The number of poor has been vtfry finaD, for feve-
ral years paft. This has been owing, Among other caufes,
to the care taken by the kiik*feffiott to give a little aid be-
times, to thofe that were likely tb foil into neceffitous ctr*
cumftaoces ; and thus, to prevent ffceir coming upon the poor1*
lift. It is too often found that many of thofe, who are accnf-
tomedto a regular f apply, becotne idle and improvident. By
lofing their ienfe of independence, they lofe regard to cha-
racter. The mannef of fupporting the poor, in this part of
Great Britain, though it be well calculated to check fhefe
evils, cannot ^together prevent them. When a (mail affift-
ance, fe*foa*t>ly adoiiniftcrcd, will enable a poor man to con-
tinue his occupation, and to earn his bread for many yean,
it is certainly much better to afford it, than, by allowing him
to fink into extreme poverty and wretchednefs, to be obliged
to admit him as a conftant penfioner. The price of meal was
fo much raifed in confequence of the great froft in harveft
1782, that it was thought neceffary to give fome temporary
affiftance to a number of the poorer clafs of people in this
pariih. Meal, and beef (which was then-cheaper than meal)
were fold to them confidently below the market price* till,
by the next plentiful harveft, provifions were brought dowxt
to their ordinary rate. The fame plan, to atfmaUer extent,
was adopted in the end of 1784, another hard year : and, by
thefe means, the diftrefe, in which feveral induftrious perfona
muft have been involved, was prevented. The annual intereft
of 40 1. of ftock, together with the ordinary colle&ions, mort-
cloth-money, &c. has hitherto been fafficient for the fupport
of the poor. ,
Ctmrcb,
Of Pettinain. 39
Chmrchy School, Heritor*, &c.— The church is {aid to have.
Veen built towards the end of the lajft century. The date 1698
i* found on the bell-houfe. The ftipend confifts o£ 80 bolls
of meal, 11 of bear, and 7 h money. The Earl of Hyndfbrd
is patron. The glebe contains abort 8 acres, part of which
h very good land. . The xwutfe was built in 17x1 ; but has.
lpeen repaired at different times.— There is a good houfe for
the School and fchoojmafter, and a fmall garden. His falary,
including, the annual produce of a mortification, 16 gl. x is. 3d.
The number of fchoiars is about 30.— .There are only three
heritors, none of whom refide iri the parilh. 1 be far greater.
Jart of the lands Vel°9g9 to the Earl of Hyndford*
Antiquities. — In the confines of the pariih on the S., ant?
on the high moorifli ground formerly mentioned, the veftiges:
of a large camp, or fortified ftatkm, are ftill very vifible. It?
contains about 6 acres, which form an irregular figure, ap~
ptoaching to that of a circular area. The wall feems to have
been very thick and high, and to have been compofed chiefly
of coarfe ftones, jnany of them a kind of flag, collected, pro-
bably, from the adjoining grounds ; but there is no appear-
ance of mortar or cement. It is fituated upon the fide of a-
deep mofs, within which, at a little diftanee, are the remains
of a fmall fort, fcarcejy including a rood of ground, which has
evidently been connected with the large one by a paflage
made through the mods. The figure of this finall fortification
is likewife round, and the wall of it has been built with the
fame kind of ftones. The large camp includes feveral fprings
of excellent water. Some urns were found, under the ruins
of the wall, a great many years ago, by fome people that
were digging out the larger ftones, for the purpofe of build*
ing. They were each of them enclofed within four coarfe
flag ftones, fet on edge, and covered with one laid flat. The
fpace
49 Statistical Account
rpaee included by thefe flag •> was fitted to a confiderabie depth,
with a fine whitiih fand, among which the urn was (landing
in aa inverted pofirion. Upon removing the urn, fomething
of a foft flimy nature was foutd upon the'fand, which, pro*
bably, might be the aihes of human- bones. A large urn,
farrounded with five (mall ones, was found -fn the bottom of
a cairn of ftenes, about a quarter of a mile diftant, and enclofed
in a fimilar manner. This large camp had two {mailer ones
in its view ; one of then? to the north weftward, upon the
higheft top of the hill, and the other to the fouth eaftward, on
die top of a little hill in Covington pariih, each about the
diftance of half amile. The firft of thefe appears to have
been fuxronnded with two walls, between which there has
tteea a deep ditch. The walls have been built of large rough
fanes, foch as are round upon the hill. A vaft number of
them fiill remain upon the place. This fortification* has like-
wife been of a roundifh figure.
On the top of a little rifing ground, about half a mile W.
from the village, there has flood one of thofe long ftones
which are known by the name of Croflcs. It ft ill lies near
the place, and a focket of ftone remains, in which it is faid
to have been fixed. From this place, which is connected
with the plantations of Weftraw, thefe is a delightful view of
the houfe and enclofures of Carftairs, on the oppofite fide of
the river.
• The houfe of Weftraw, or WcfterhaH, (as it is fbmerimes
fpelt in old writings), is probably ancient ; but it has under-
gone fo many alterations, that it has loft, in a great meafure,
the appearance of antiquity. The lands of Wefterhall were
given to Sir Adam Johnfton of that ilk, in the time of James
II. King of Scotland, in reward of his loyalty, and, in parti,
eular, for his activity in fuppreffing the rebellion of the Earl
of Douglas. (Vide Crawford's Peerage.) It is probable
that
{hat whw tWb lamds iu i<anai$^hir* V«rs«l«.iWt*d, the faro;
W9it ¥W WU^ed VJQA a, pvt of ft* eftatc in. A^andale,
in awfcr to keep up the xoqm»jgr of thia event, TM prefenf
Jut Jaaaoa Johnftou; of WefterfeaU & * defcen<fcn* of {his fa*
luily* There barve Uciv feveral oflytf old houfes of fom$ note
ill the pbrifl^ of wbiob fonje ar$ in ruins« and Qtbers entirely
deinoUiW. One of tbefe wa$ at .Clgwhum, in ttbich tl\e firft
|^a i&4 ia diis couaxry % fajd to l^ave beea drunjc toward*
ft* en4 of toft ceatutjt. Jt had been brought frpoa Holland
aqoor4ing to the tradijioa, \*j Sir Andrew Kenne^i wfo was
then proprietor of tfcat part of the pariflx; and^ ^Uo, being
I*w4 CortfcTYaW of &$ S<?*3 Privileges at <^y^*et ha^
JWeiwi it a* a pttfeat fr^n* the Ou.t<& 4&tt Indjp GQihjpacyr-
• MifisUmf<m QkJttyt^i^ni^X^ c»apm of thi? J4g9 tP wlU
ftiU jramlft IP fM* pv* tf *h* cc*u*rj : l^t there is fain*-
tbing fiagfcla* 19 Ac ftaje of thi* pajift in, that refneft, A
^sv ve&j ftf the fern*? we tfeirlpi (or bo^o4 to grind corn) at
the. mik WHiiq tbft pariife } the great part are thirl*} to. that
of CannichaeL It is but a little more diftantthan the other,,
and the multure is only one half. — A confidexable quantity of
meal, as well as of butter and 'cheefe, is ufually fent to mar-
ket from this pari£h. Formerly it was the prafiice to fend
the meal to Carluke* or farther, in its way to Glafgow. ' Of
late a great part of it has been fold at Lanark, where the de-
mand was much increafed fince the ere&ion of Mr. Dale's
cotton- works— The mooriih and high grounds in the pariih
might be rendered of greater value, and the country much
beautified, by large clumps and belts of plantations. The great
*ife in the price of wood is another motive to this improve-
ment. Within the laft 40 years, the price of hard wood has
been doubled, and that of fir quadrupled. The large fize, and
thriving ftate of the larches at Weftraw, feem to recommend
Vol. XII. F this
4* Statiftical Account
this kind of trees in particular.-— The fuel generally ufed in
the parifli is coal, and a few peats, which are brought from
the other fid£ 6f the river. *The coal is moftly brought from
PonfeTghj Which is near 7 miles diftant from the village.
The roads have been greatly mended within thelaft 10 years;
but the materials are generally foft, which renders frequent
repairs' neceffary. Some of the crofs roads are very bad.
The ftatute-labour is converted into money, and amounts to
about 12 1. a-year. This 211m, judicioufly laid out, will foou
accommodate the parifli better in this important refpeft. Th«
people, upon the whole? may be laid to live comfortably in
their fituation. They are induftrious and fober,- and, in ge-
neral, pay a commendable regard to religious inftitutions.
There has only been one or two feceders in the parifh for ma-
ny years paft. There are 3 ale-houfes, which are fo little
frequented, that the indnftry, or morals of the people, do not
appear to be, in any confiderable degree, hurt by them. No
pcrfon belonging to the parifli has been profecu ted' for any
capital crime, within the memory of the oldeft inhabitant. •
NUJJ,
Of Goldingbatrii 43
NUMB E R IV,
PARISH of COLDINGHAM,
(County of Berwick, Synod of Merse and Tiviotdale,
Presbytery of Chirnsibe)*
JBy John Rentokj Efq> of Chefterbani* .
. Extent^ Surface, &c>
'T^ttiS parilli is the largeft of any in this country, t*ut not
-*- of the greateft value, as it includes a common moor*
whicli contains above 600 tnglifh acres, of a very poor qua- >
lity* There is no map of this parifh. In fome parts, it is
between 6 and 7 miles in length, and .as much in breadth,
and is of a very irregular figure* The appearance of this pa-
tifh is rather flat, there being no high hills in it, but a grerit
proportion of riling grounds, of eafy afcent^ and gentle declivi-
ty* which are, -with a few exceptions, all acceffible by the
plough, and which, as well as the valleys and plain ground,
ate Of a fertile foil, excepting the heights about7 St. Abb's
F a Head,
* The J>ariflivaf Celctingtum being tt prefent racantj the StatiftteaJL Account
•f that diftrift was vary obligingly undertaken by Mr. Renton.
44 Statijfkal jftcoitfrt >
Head, and other lefler parcels, which are bare and rocky, and
part of the farms upon the edges of the common moor, which
are of a cparfe and co!4 foil, *tid eicepting alfo the far great-
ell part of that moor itfelf, which, in its natural date, produ-
ces nothing but heath on the dry parts, and bent, and the
coarfeft fort of graft oh the tftfarapy fcrettiih parti. This
great common was, about 20 years ago, divided by the Court
1 of Seffion among the heritors having interefl therein* after .
•wretch Wtigaticfo, Uiid *t the etfpenfe of 1 J60 I. and upwards*
confiderable improvcittetfcs* by endonftg, draining, and lim-
ing, have been made thereon, by feveral of the heritors. But
it is believed few of them will find thofe improvements tura
cut to their ttdvaatage, as the foil is;, i* tooft part*, thin, mar-
fhy, and of the molly kind,, and the bottom of a tough, cold •
bluifii clay. The general opinion feems to be, that the beft
uTe that Tt can T>e turned to, is T>y planting it. TKete are 1b-
veral peat mofles in this extenfive moor ; but few of the peats
are of the black hard kind : they are generally of a brownifli
colour, foft and porous, and "burn away in a blaze, are fitter
/or kindling than lafting fires, and as fuch they are now com-
monly ufed. The modes themfqlves beiqg much worn #ut,
the digging and drying the pcau has become more difficult
and expenfive, and they are now, from different caufes, in a
good meafure, deferted, alt'hough peats and turfs were 'the
principal fuel ufed in this parilh from the earlieft times 4 and
.this accounts for the barrennefs and fterility of the moor, as
the furface mult have been repeatedly paired and carried off
by the inhabitants, in the courfe of many ages.
River, Fijbf Sea-Coq/l, &c. — The water of feye^ is ther
only water worth mentioning in this parifh, it rifes in the pa-
rifli of Cockburnfpath, very near the weft boundary of this-
pariib, aadJtts its--cottrfetiwough t&M and*hc,p*rifh«ef Ay-
Of tid&ngfam. '45
ton, and tuns into the fea at Eyemouth, fe -this water iheife
are plenty of fronts of excellent quality, generally ftnail :
there are indeed fome pretty large, from 16 to 24 inched in
length, Vat none of the true faltnon kind. There xa *Hb fc
t>eanttftd lake of water, about a mile weft of St* AW* Head,
tailed CbUKngham Loeh. It is of a triangular figure, about
a mile in circumference, and faid to be feveral fethoms deej>
•in fome parts : the water is clear, and muft be produced from
tfprmgs, as there are no burns that ran into it, and although
it Tlas no vifibje outlet, the depth always appears to be the
'fame, The only filh in it, are the perch from 5 to 8 inches
long, cotnpaft and firm in appearance, but dry eating. This
hike appears, to T>e well fuited for a plea£u*e*boat, %ut there
is none on it at prcfent. It is fituated many fathoites above
the level of the fea. The extent of the fea-coaft, in this pa-
rmS, is about 6 mile's from Eyemouth pariih to that of Cock-
fjtrmfpath, and upon this part1 of the ooaft, the promontoty
""of St. Abb's Head is fituated, about which, and on fhe weft-
*Ward of it, the ihore is dangerous and inacceffible, except at
lumfden (bore, at which there are feveral fifting boats,
and, on the eaftward of St. Abb's Head, a considerable part
tf the fhore is fmooth and of eafy accefs, particularly at Cold-
itrgham fends, and the farm of Northfield, where there are
aUb feveral filhing boats: but there is no harbour for {hips in
this pariih ; the only harbour in Berwickfiiire being at Eyc-»
mouth; the beft and moil acceflible of any between Hoty-
Ifland and Leith. There is a fine bay between St, Abb's
Head and the fort of Eyemouth, in which (hips bound far
Eyemouth caft anchor and wa:t the time of tide for going
into the harbour. Great plenty of fiili are caught in the fea,
on this part of the coaft, fuch as haddocks, whitings, cod,
'and ling; lobfters, crabs, and other fhell fiih-$ turbot, lkatc,
and herrings, all of excellent qualities, which, after fupply-
ing
46 Staiiftical Amount
ing the people in this neighbourhood, art carried to Dan4e»
Kelfo, &c., and a great pajrt are carried to Edinburgh* Th*
haddocks have almoft deferted this coaft for thefe a or 3 yean*
but the cod and ling are more plentiful, and of better quality
than formerly. The difference between the higheft and low*,
eft tides, on this (hore, is about 20 feet j and there are great
quantities of fea-weed, commonly called fea-ware, thrown
aihore here, the coarfer part of which is carried off with,
avidity, and applied as manure to the land near the ihore.
The finer parts are manufactured into kelp, and produce from
30 to 40 tons yearly. The greateft part of this finer fort*
grows upon the rocks fituated between the high and low wa-
ter-marks, and is cut and manufactured into kelp only once
in 3 years.
'Town of Coldingbam.—The town of Goldingham appears
to have been of very high antiquity ; for the monaftery was
.one of the moft ancient and flouriihing on the eaft of Scot-
land, and previous to the confecration of the famous St. Cuth-
bert, the biihop of Lindisferne, u c. Holy Ifland, which was
performed in the Cathedral of York, in the year 685. This
monaftery, then a famous and (lately edifice, was confumed
and burnt *. The town of Coldingham ftands in a fnug dry
valley,
• It is faid (Sir D. Dalrymple's Annals, vol. I. p. 4S/) to have been rebuilt
by King Edgar, in the year icoS, and that at its confecration to the Virgin, he
aftifted in pcrlbn, when it was couftituted into a priory of Bened&Hnes, to which
• colony of Monks from Durham were introduced ; and that for federal fucceed*
ing generations, it continued to depend upon the convent of Durham ; that
K- Edgar ordered a houfc to be built for himfelf, at a fmall diftance from the
church (part of the walls of which houfe are ftill to be fcen, and are called Ed-
gar's walls'at this city) ; and befides this manfion-houfe, he bellowed en the
priory, the lands of AuJd Cambus, Lnmfdeo, Reaton, Swinewood, Fairneyfide,
the 2 Aytons, Prendcrguelr, and Grainfmouih, all places in the neighbourhood,
aud
Tff ColJingbam. 47
▼alley, having a fmall rivulet of excellent water .running
upon each fide of it, and is about a mile diftant from die fea.
It is fur rounded with rifing fields of gentle afcent, all ot ex*
cellent quality ; but there are no profpe&s from the town be-
yond half a mile's diftance. It appears from old writings,
and by parts of the foundations of old buildings, that feveral
of the crofts about the town, now arable, had been anciently
the fites of houfes and gardens. It muft, therefore, have been
much more populoiis than it is at prefent *. Before the com-
mon moor was divided; this town was dull and unpleafant, in
appearance, as ill the houfes were covered with turfs and
divots from that moor. All the inhabitants were a^erfe to
the divifion, t>ecaufe they forefaw, that this fervitude, and
that of the peats and turfs for fuel, would be much con-
fined.
and at prefent known, by the fame names ; as alio, the lands of Swinton, and 24
bcafts for tilling them ; and Hkewife the lands of Paxton, Filhwick, and all the '
lands adjoining to the latter,, lying between Harnden and Knabton, places of
great extent and value' on the banks of the river Tweed, and ftill called by the
fame names ; and that he alfo gave to this church, the fame privileges whicJt
.were at that time poflefied by Holy IQand and Norham, vis. 37 days to all who
iled thither, and half a merk of filver to the Monks of Coldingham frbm every
plough in Coidingbam fliore, for which the pofieffors of thefe lands voluntarily
fubmitted and engaged' for its punctual payment.
* The prior refided here with all his train and dependents ; and the church
and other buildings, about it were extenfive and magnificent, but are all now in
.complete ruins, except the prefent kirk, which is dark within, and mabby with-
f ut. The revenue of this priory muft have been very confiderablc ; for, befidea
the temporal lands which belonged to it, thty had right to the diawn teinds of
13 parishes. After the general annexation, this priory was erected into a tea*
jtoral lordibip in favour 0$ John Stuart, a jMtural fon or grandfoa of K»
James the 5^ Irfeems he had fold a great part of the lands and teinds, and
the remainder were carried off| by the Earls of Ji*me, by decreets of apprising
and other legal diligences. They have been long in pofleffion, and partly by
voluntary, and partly in confequence of decreets of valuation tad fate, .her*
*bld the fiibje&s adjudged, at fcaft the far greateft part of them, but have ftiU
rfgfit to the feu-duties of a great number of feuais and heritors.
4$ StMtyfctt 4a;oHnt
fined. Bttt m place of their being (ufertfs by d*e divifion,
it has turned out much to their advantage, for great numbers
of them were employed all the foamier time in digging *q£
preparing peats aM t^rfa } tat after they were, in a great;
ppaihie, reftri&ed ftom that fervitude, they found jpore
pnsfitable taipjoyoient, from the fpirit of improvements whic^
ijtad become general, and were f jou able to get coals for tfceti;
fael : and they are now ip a more thriving condition ii)
•very tttpe&, than they efyoyed before the divifiou* for,
fincn that period* thftj have not only built a good many new
hanfes, which they have covered with tiles, and fome with
blue dates, but they have rebuilt feveral of the old houfe?
and poverod them with tt^i^ fort of layering ; and the town
has now, a more lively and cjieerfyj appearance, and their
wealth and population are vifibly increafing. The number
of fouls in this town, at prefent, is 718, whereof 317 are
males, and 401 females.
Pt/iifcwi— ^-According to Or. Webfter's report, the num-
ber of fouls then, was 2313. By an accurate lift made out
in the year 1791, the heads of families in this pariiharejip;
the number of fouls 2391, of whom 1136 are males, and 1255
females. There were 643 under xo years ; 502 between 10
and 204 939 between ao and Jq j 213 between 50 and 70 ;
and 95 between 70 and 100. By the feffion-clerk's attcfta-
tion, it appears, that from the ift of January 1790 to ift Ja-
ftipqy 4793* there have been U3 baptifms, 70 deaths, and
■jr marriages : That the rfefijn*qt& laid on by the heritors,
fbr the paupers-, have been at the rate of 4 months land-tax,
communibus annis, for thefe laft 3 years, or 69 1. 7 s. 4 d. Ster-
)*og jezfijt exclufive of the collections at the church doors ;
sad ifae nambers of the poor are increafing, whict joay be
tfcribed to the too common ufe of tea, and the inqmoderate
ftfe
2 .
Of Gcldingham. 49
ufeof whifky. There is not a fingle furgeonin this parifli.
The people in general are moderate and healthy ; few agues
of late years ; fevers and confumptions are the ordinary fatal
difeafes here, efpecially to young women. Few of <the com*
xnon people will allow inoculation ; they fay it is an encroach-
ment upon the prerogative of providence; and it is in vain to
tell them, that prudence is the gift pf providence, and that it
is their indifpenfible duty to u(e every prijdential and apr
proved means to feve the lives of their children.
Stipend, Heritors, &c. — The Crown is patron. The manfe
and offices are in good repair, and the kirk, was divided a-
mong the heritors, new feated and repaired about 20. years
4go. The glebe and the garden are amqng .the bed in, this
prefbytery. The ftipend, which, by a prpcefs of augmenta-
tion in 1739* wafl converted into money, is 881. 13 s.; and
the minifter has right to the teinds of the 7 fiihing boats in
this parifh, for which the laft incumbent accepted of 20 s.
yearly for each of thofe boats. By the converfion of the
vidual ftipend in 1739, into money, the minifter thought
himfelf a confiderable fuficrer. By the land-tax or cefs-roll
of this county, it appears there are 67 heritors, great and
(mall, in this parilh, and that oar monthly eels is 208 1. a 9.
Scots ; that 1 1. lis. Scots, or is. 8d. Sterling of monthly
cefs, is equal to icol, Scots of valued rent, being the quali-
fication of a commiJBoner of fupply ; and that there are only
1 9 of thefe 67 heritors, whofe valued rent amounts to that qua*
iification. None of the heritors whofe real rent exceeds 400 1.
Sterling, refide within the parifli ; and alrooft all the fmattet
heritors ppflefs their owh lands. Some of tfcm are in eafy cir-
tumftances, otbeis net. Within thefe 40 years, the full half
of the lands in this parifli have been fold by chehr former
proprietors, acid have always met with ready purchasers; and
Vol. XII. G the
jfo Statifcical Account
the rcftts, as Well as the price of land here, are dill ad-
vancing.
Agriculture*— Before the fpirit of improving land began to
appear here, there were 3 confiderable villages Ifcfides the
town of Coldingham, viz. Renton, Auchencraw, and the 2
Preftons ; but fince that, the heritors have built good farm-
fteadings upon the mod centrical parts of their outfields.
Hence, the villages of Renton and Eaft Prefton, have difap-
peared, and Auchencraw and Weft Prefton have dwindled to
Iefs than the half of what they were before that period. There
are above 60 farms in this parifli, befides the acres that lie
arotind the towa of Coldingham. The rents of the farms
are from aol* to 500 1. and upwards. Several of the heri-
tors who poffefe theif own properties, as well as our princi-
pal farmers, are inferior to none in induftrj and (kill for the
improvement and management of land to the belt advantage *.
Some
* Previous to the year 17*0, almoft the whole farms in this and the neigh-
bouring parishes were laboured and cropt in the following manner, viz. about
One-fourth of tb'c arable land as infield, and the other three-fourths as outfield ;
hut for the Better underftanding that mode of cropping and management, fup-
pbfe a farm confifting of 400 acres of arable land (befides meadow and marihy
ground unfit for tillage) to have been let, the tenant became bound by the
leafe to follow and dung one-fifth part of the infield yearly, and not to take
above v4 crops thereof between fallowings, one of which to be barley, and an-
other a'peafe crop, andTo'on through the courfe of the tack : and with refpeel
to the outfield, he was allowed to have Only one-third part of it in corn, in any
jtoe year, which third he was obliged to fallow, and to give it 3 or more plough-
ing* between Whitfunday and the enfuing feed time ; and after taking 3 crops of
oats off it fucceffively, he was obliged to allow it to lie in ley for 6 years before
it was again riven out fnd followed, and fo on with the other two-thirds of the
outfield, until the expiration of his tack. By that mode of management, the
4ftad was fo much wafted and worn out, that the fourth crop of the infield*
«od the third from the outfield, frequently did not produce the double of the
feed 5 and the only paftsre fuch a former had for fupporting his (locking of
hbrfes,
Of Coidingham. 5 1
Some years prior to 1769, a few individuals, of more than
ordinary penetration and difcernment, having discovered the
mighty effefts of lime in Northumberland, they ventured to
make experiments of its effedb upon the lands in Berwickshire ;
and from {heir exertions and fuccefs, a fpirit of improvement
became general : and in confequqnee of the great demand for
lime, additional lime-kilns were ere&ed, both upon this, and
on the other fide of Berwick, and the great quantities pro-
duced from tbem, as well as*what was brought in flaps from
Sjundfrland, and landed &t Eyemouth, have been truly amaz-
ing ^ Pur farming heritors and freeholders above alluded to,
in this . parifli, Jbon began and carried on the improvements
*>f their feveral poffeffions, with equal fpirit and fuccefs. They
foon difcovered the inejficacy and impropriety of their former
mode of cropping, and relinquifhed it unanimoufly; and, in
place thereof* adopted a quite new and different fyftem. They
began it by fallowing and cleaning all their old infield, and
then fowing upon it barley pr oats, and red and white clover,
with a fmall mi^tur? of rye-grab ; fome of them did, and o-
tjiers did not lay their muck upon tha£ fallow : becaufe old
infield, even when it appears to be worn out and wafted by
cprii crops, will produce luxuriant crops of. plover and rye-
grafs, without manure \ and fo it happened with thofe im-
provers. They did not even bellow any lime upon that old
infield fallow, as lime has been found tQ have little effeft up*
on old infield ; and it only discovers its powers upon frefh
land* Airf baying thus difpofed of their infield, by laying
horfes, black cattle, and fheep, was the poor grafs upon the two-thirds of out-
field ley, and the meadow and marlhy fpots in the farm in thefrauner and au-
tumn, and dry ftraw in winter and fpring. The poor condition in which thefe
animals appeared, in the months of March and April every year, demonftrated
the fcarcity and poor quality of their food. They wen faftU, lean, and very
fnk.
$2 Statijticdl Acctuni
it off in grafs, partly for hay, and partly for pafturage, which
afforded them plenty of meat for their horfes employed ia driv.
ing lime, and carrying on their improvements in the next, and
other years, they then applied their whole ftrength for ma-
nuring their outfield, at the rate of 40 to 50 bolls of lime*
fheUs* to the ErigRlh acre, which, after being fallowed, and*
fo limed, produced three good crops, vit. oats, barley, oats ;
or, oats, peafe, barley. They then fallowed, and, laying all
their muck upon the fallow weS pulverised, they formed it
into drills, ted fowed turnips on the dritys, which were eaten
by their fhcep is tire winter, and then ploughed arid fowed it
lip with grafs-feeds, in the fame tnanner as the infield \ and
fo they went on with the raft of the ootfieM, and by the end
of 10 or 12 years, their farms were all thus improved, and
were all managed and cropt thereafter as infield, and in the
following manner, vix. They commonly allowed their fewn
up grab ground to remain in graft for at hid 3 years, feme
4 or 5, and having and paftnring it alternately; and after low*
ing it odt for corn-crops, they took only three crops from the
jlcheft and belt parts of the firms ; thefe were oats, barley,
oats; or, oats, peafe, wheat, if the land had any tolerable mix-
ture of good clay in it ; and they then fallowed it, fowed op
the turnip-land with barley, oats, and grafa-feeds, as before.
In their middling foil, they took only two crops of corn, oats
and barley, 4nd thereafter fallow, turnip, barley and grafs*
feeds ; and in the weakeft and lighteft of their foil, they only
took one crop of oats, and then fellow, turnip, barley, and
grafs-feeds ; and in this fecohd courfe they alfo gave it ano-
ther liming of 2 j to 30 bolls lime-Qiells the acre, and com-
xwoly with the fecond crop of the flrongcft and middling foils j
and
- • Oar boll of Kmc is 4 bufoets or half a quarter. The price of what is im-
ported at Eyemouth, is is. ad. the boll 5 and that brought front beyond Ber-
wick is Sd., betides the carriage.
Of Goldingbatn. $$
and their whole dung and fulzie Was always bellowed *n the
turnip fallow.
Their chief objeft is to hare the lands laid dowir into grafa
in good heart, and it will improve everj year, if pafturcd with
flieep ; and after a farm is improved, in manner above writ,
ten, our farmers have never lefs than half of it in graft, and
fomeoftheift two-thirds; becaufe they find that fitch rich
gtafs fields bring them as much profit as their corn ftridt do.
IF fo, the lands mtrft be in tfie bigheft condition, *ftd may b»
Kept fo by pruderft management, at 60 eonfidetaUe expenfe.
* It is by too inariy cotn crops, and too freqtfent cfops of bay,
that lands1 are deteriorated, to prevent which ftould be the
chief attention of landlords and theft managers. No fenfible
honed farmer will ever attefopt tt> injure or ran cm his farm
by fceurgihg crops, towards the end of hi£ tack 3 and no ca-
pricious fool will ever find fuch di&otieft mean* profitable*
fiy departing from the old, and -adopting this new fyftem of
management, our farmers have reaped profits equal to their
expectations j their corn fields have been far more productive,
and their flocking of all kinds being them more than triple
the prices they *ere fold at, before their farms were fo im-
proved. Of late years, they have feM their hogs at or above
20 s* a -head; their two-years old frorii *$a. tbjbs. ; and
their older (beep between 30 s. and 40 $., and fome at higher
prices. Nd pains nor expenfes have been fpared to procure
the breed both of black cattle and {beep fitteft for their fcve*
ral paftures. In fmall farms, where there are no Sleep* the
tenants let their turnip crops from a 1. to 4 1. the acre. The
turnip belonging to the greater farmers are eaten by their
own flieep. Our beft landlord* have no feruple to let their
forms to good farmers for 25 to 31 years, where the farms
are net improved » and indeed no tenant will take a leafe of
vnf ffiorter duration, where he has the farm to improve at his
own
J 4 Statical Account
curt* expense* Many of the landlords. allow the incoming te«.
nants a confiderable dedu&ion from the yearly rent, for buy-
ing lim^for gifting them in their improvement *.
MafwflaOuret. — Wye hjve few manufactures in this parifhf
awing to ourdiftance from collieries. But although our coals
are dearer* ourgraio is cheaper by x8d* or % $. a boll, than
it is about Glafgow an4 Pauley. Our fupernumerary young
npn gfrpartly to England, and partly to Edinburgh, and or
ther populous towns in Scotland, in gueft of employment*
Very few of them rehflj either the failor Qr foldier's way of
life* Our youpg women are. fqr the mod part, employed ia
spinning, of which they make very fmall wages,, not exceedr
iog i s. a-week* It is faid *Jiat fundry mauufa&urers in E-
dinburgh, and other places, have of late years fent them quan-
tities of lint to fpin here, which they return in yarn; and that
tilis employment increases every year. Our bandicraftLmen
■• ■ ??4
* The yearly gains or wages of a fingle hind in this parifh, are Io bolls oats,
2 bolls barley, i boll peafe, a houfe and a fmall kail yard, a cow's meat, land
for fowing a firlot of potatoes, the carriage of 3 or 4 carp coals, from 20s. to^
30s. fin fheep-money, their victuals while working at hay, or in harveft ; his
wife, reaps in harveft for the houfe, and fbe and her bairns, that can work, get
from 3 d. to 6d. a -day, for weeding turnips and potatoes, and for gathering and
carrying off ft ones from the fown grafs grounds. The lotmen or threfhers of corn,
get the 25th boll in name of wages; fome farmers give, them a bottle of faalU
beer at a certain hour of die day, which js very neceflary, a°d it enlivens them
much. A ploughman or carter who lives in the farmer's houfe, gets from 61 .
to 7L yearly : a day-labourer gets lod. in winter, and is. the reft of the year,
winter being reckoned at 4 months: mafons and wrights from 16 d. to tod. a-
day : the other tradefmen are commonly paid for piece work : a maid fenrjmf
gets from 3 1. to 4 1, a-year. All thefe wages, except the hinds and herds, who
are paid in kind, have been raifed one-third part, at leaft, within thefe laft 40
years. Even the hind's and herd's are increafed, by the difference of their cow's
meat and the fowing of potatoes ; fome of them are allowed to fow a peck or ft
half of lintfeed, and emy faithful fervant cojnmooly gets feme additional gra*
ligations from their maftcrs and miftrefics.
Of CoUtngham. $$
and labourers feetn to depend upon the Farmers' for their fub-
fiftence, as they are principally employed by them. There
are, however, about 36 mafter wearers in the parifh, who,
befides what they weave for the inhabitants, manufacture a
good deal of linen and woollen cloths for fale. Tntfy are ge-
nerally in eafy circumftances, and fome of them are"becoming
rich in that Hae of life, 1
Pro/ejions, Manners, &c. — There are federal fhopkeepedf
in the town of Coldingham, but none of them deal exten-
lively. No writers or attorneys of influence ; nor is there
one fingle juftice of peace refident in this large parifh. No
Papifts, Epifcopals, or Unitarians. The efiabliihed Prefby-
terian religion is the only manner of worfhip attended to and
profeffed here ; there are, however, a few feceders, who at-
tend the Burgher and Antiburgher meetings at Ayton. They
tax themfelves with a proportion of the expenfe of building
the meeting-houfes, and the preacher's ftipend. Thus they
facrifice their money, as toll -dues, for the fafeft or fureft paf-
fage to the regions of complete happinefs in a future Qate.
The generality of the people in this parifh are fober, frugal,
and induflrious, plain and decent in their drefs and deport-
ment, and very few of them difcover any defirc for fineries,
or expenfive amufements. The only extravagance they are
guilty' of is their breakfafting upon tea, in place of pottage,
the conftant morning diet of their more athletic anceftors,
which debilitates them ; (here I do not include the princi-
pal families) and the immoderate ufe of whifky, which too
many of the lower clafs are guilty of, which deftroys them;
This is owing to the cheapnefs of thefe two fuperfluous and
pernicious articles, which appear to be objects more fit for
taxation than coals, candles, leather and foap, which are as
neceffary in the pooreft families, as their meal and milk.
Exports,
56 Statifikal Account
Exports, &c— The quantities of grain, particularly oats
and barley, for we do not grow much wheat or peafe, as
veil as the numbers of black cattle and (beep, fold from this
parifli, at Eyemouth, Berwick, and to mealmakets, commumius
annis, are very coafiderable, but cannot be ascertained with
*ny degree of exadnefs j and it i? impoffible to know the
number of quadrupeds, without a fpecial forvey. AH roots
and vegetables neceflary for the kitchen are raifed in great
|ftenty in this parifli j and we fell a great {bare of our pota-
toes ; but there is neither heinp nor lint raifed here, except bf
feme individuals, who rtfe a little of the latter for their fa-
mily purpofes, and their fervanta for theirs ; and all our grain
is commonly got into the barn-yards by .Michaelmas 0. S*
except in cold, vet feafpns, fuch as the lad, and alfo except*
ing the farms adjoining the common moor : there the corns are
three or four weeks later in ripening titan thofe in the vwok
er and more ferule fields.
bif advantages. — The greeted disadvantage peculiar in this
parifli, is the 4i&*nce and dearth of fuel. Since the diyi-
fion of the common moor, our chief fuel is coals, which wjb
bring in carts from the collieries in Northumberland, at the
diftance of 14 miles from, the centre of this parifli. The Au-
thor of Nature, who always ads for gopd and wife purpofes,
for the general good of the whole creation, hath denied the be*
nefit of coaUmines to every part of the county of Berwick; at
leaft none fuch have as yet been difcovered. The legislature, ui
Supplement and addition to our want of that neceflary article,
did, in Queen Anne's days, laddie all water-borne coals that
jbould be landed at Eyemouth, our only lea-port, with &
duty of 3 &• $ d» the ton, and at fame time exempted Dunbar,
North Berwick, and all the other ports in the Frith of Forth
from payment of any duty for coals. How far that law can
be
6
life reconcikdnridr equity and juftie*, which are; or ought to
beUhe foundation of all laws, cannot be ccifily conceived;
Birth tsf Paffiaget &v~Fb*!, $*.— Thene ate only two
binds of paffage, the woodoocfk aiid the dotterel, ever fecn
hdret the firflJrtqdentr the woods, and' are few in number J
the fecomf appear in vaft numbers dn the heights. They
both arrive in the fpringi and art feldom feen here after the
ifaonthof June. There is alfo a prodigious number of f»a«
fowl*, known by the.nariies of fcottts and kittywakes, with a
mixture of featgults, tfastt arrive in the fprihg yearly, upon
the high and inacceffible rocks on the fouth (ide of St. Abb's*
Head; They breed incredible nbtnters of young $ and about'
the end of May, when the yonng are fa id' to be ripe« but be-
Are titty cam fly, the gemktneftr in the neighbourhood find
excellent fpbrt bjr going out inboats, and (hooting great num-
bers of them ; when they art killed or wounded, they fait
from the rocks into the fea^ and the rowers haul tUem inter
their boats. Their eggs are pretty good, but their flefh is ve-
ry bad j yet the poor people eat thetn. They leave the rocks
about harVeft ; and none of them are e?e> feen here before the
tlixt fpring. Where they go to in Winter, nobody knows.
Antiquities v— There are the remains of a church* or chapel
of cafe, on the heights of St. Abb's Head. Fart of the fidc-
wall* ate flill Handing* upright #*
Vox,. XIi: H iaft
4 It is (M that this promontory got it* name from Lady Ebba, wno \v*t
daughter of orie of fhfe kmgs of Northmnbertand, in the time of the heptarchy ;
that a violent w*i hiving bappenfed in her father* dominions, in which he was
defeated, (he fottnd it advifablc to take refuge in Scotland ; arid that according-
ly (he, accompatiied by foffle friends and dooiefties, went to fea in a final! vef.
ft}, bound for fome port in the Frith of TPortfc ; but a contrary wind having
fprung
5 8 Statlfiical Account
Faft Caftle is fituated on the banks of the fea, oti the N. W»
corner of this parifin It is now in complete ruins. It muftr
from the fteepnefs of the rocks on which it flood, have been
inacceffiWe on all parts, except bj a narrow neck, or entry from
the land, of a few feet in breadth. At the date of Gowryf*
confpiracy, it belonged to Logan of Reftalrigg* Every body
knows his fate, or rather that of bis family. Several years af-
ter he was in his grave, he was. tried and condemned, and his
whole eft a tea were forfeited, and beftowed upon the then Earl
cf Dunbar, for his being engaged in that confpiracy : A fil-1
ly body of the name of Sprot, a notary in Eyemouth, pro-
duced fome treafonable letters that pafled between Gowry and
Logan ; and he was rewarded by being hanged at Edinburgh,
crofs. There was a fortalice, or family caftle at Renten, an-
other at Houndwood, one at Weft Prefion, and one at Eaft
Pnrfton, in which the proprietors of thefe eftatesrefided. They
have been all demolifhed, fihee the commencement of this cen-
tury, and the ftones and materials applied to other purpofes.'
The
iprang, they -could not weather the Head, but landed in fome part near it, pro-
bably at Cokiingham fands ; and being hofpitably received by the biffiop or
prior of Coldingham, (he was foon appointed Abbefs, or fome fuch dignified
rank in that church, and, from a principle of gratitude, built that chapel at
her own-expenfe, alter which the promontory was known by the name of St.
Abb'i head. There is alfo a tradition, andf it even appears in fome part of the*
hiftory of thefe times, (which by the by the writer hereof never read), that upon
an invaiion of the Danes, this Lady Ebb'a, Or fome of the fuccceding AbbefTes,
and her or their nuns of Coldingham, Cut off their nofes, for preventing theuc
being violated by thefe terrible foes. And by way of con trait to that very
Angular mode of preferring their, chaitity, it is fa id that the Pope, in fome of kis
charters to this Convent, indulged the Monks with the »fe of fome females at
certain periods, vb purgandis renis ; and that fome of thefe charters are pre-
fer ved in the cathedral of Durhr.m to this day. And it has been always current-
ly reported and believed here, that all the principal writing* and archives of
this priory were carried off and depoiited at Durham, fome time before the Re-
formation, and alfo fome of their largeft bells.
Of ColMngbam* 59
The only camp that now appears to have been in this pa-
rifl), is that upon the height called Warlaw, on the weftward
of Auchencraw. It is of an oval form, and contains 5 or 6
acres of very poor moor land} but hiflory and tradition are fi-
Jent about it,
Rtads, &c— Previous to the year 1772, the roads in this
county were repaired by the flatute-work in kind, but which
was much neglcited*, and what part thereof that was performed,
was always done in the moft flovenly and injudicious manner.
By that time feveral inclofurea were made by our improvers,
upon the fides of the highways, Neceffity is the ftrongeft
prompter ; and the gentlemen being fenfible of the continual*
trefpafies that mutt happen to their fences, unlefs the roads
were made pafiable, they applied for, and obtained an aft of
parliament for making turnpike roads, and for converting the
ftatute-labour into money. , No turnpikes were, ever ercfted
in confequence of that law, in this parifli ; but the ftatute-
work, fo converted, was rigoroufly exafted, and applied un- '
der t}>e direction of the diftrifi meetings. The amount of
thefe converfions in this parifh, fince 1772, may be about
3900 1. Sterling. The great poft-road leading acrofs the com-
mon moor,, naturally rough, wet, and deep, fwallowed up a
great part of thefe converfions fpr many years, and a new Se-
parate turnpike aft was thought necefikry, for completing
and upholding the repairs of that great road from Dunglafs-
bridge to Berwick bounds, which was accordingly obtained ;
and at fame time a fine new bridge was built over the Peafe
water, and that whole great poft7road is now completely re-
paired. Hence this part of the poft-road, through Berwick-
{hire, which was formerly the word and moft dangerous part
of it, between Edinburgh and London, is now in perfeft
good repair ; and the increafe of travellers, efpecially in car*
£p Siatiftifal Aaoupt
xiages, £ar exceeds all expedition ; and our ftatQte oonvcr-
dions, which exceed 140 1. Sterling yearly, will, it i* believed,
be £ ujfficient for forming and fupporting all th£ o*b«f roa4* in
good condition, under .proper management, iphich bttbert*
feems to have been exceptionable.
The greateft part of the lands in this pariih have been en-
plofed within ifcefe laft thirty years, (if we «*cept «the cam-
moo moor), generally by ditch and hedge, and Dome wkh
^one-fences ; and there is little doubt of xhe whole feeing *n-
cjojted in A few years hence, (with the above exception).
Thorji hedgos tbtive well here, fb do ttees of aU forte ; but
our artificial pfcnj^eioos are few. There are a good aunjr .na-
tural wopds, near the head of the water ,of Eye. Tbejr »»t
&L cfritfly of Mk, baiel, and birch. Some parts of thefe wood*
lire Jfit to taniKH* who peel and carry off the barfc of the oak
trfles,. j»njl fcU the timher to farmers. The brushwood aa$
loppings ace bought for fuel.
»C»,
X
Of Jii&Of *f St, Stibans. Gt
.NUMBER V.
^AUISH of ABBAT w'St, 3ATHANS.
(COUNTT OF B&RWIC*, STNOD OF MeRSE AND TjTIOTDAIE,
j&y jht JtiV. Mr, JftHV {&»•
fituftfan, Extent, &*/, £#*•**, tfr.
THE fmsAkiefs of this pariflj, and its retired fituation, af-
ford but little fcope for ft at i (Ileal inveftigation ; being
fituated in that mountainous part of Berwickihire which
ftretches into the middle of the LammermooT hills, where the
foil in general is barren, and the country but thinly inhabit*
ed. Its form- is irregular ; its greateft extent from E. to W.
|s about 6 or 7 miles in length, and in fome places its breadth
from S. to N. about 3 miles. The parilh in general is hilly,
greater part of which is covered with heath. On the fide of
the water of Whitadder, and the fmall rivulets which run in-
to it, there are, in many places, confide rablc tracks of low
lying grounds which are naturally fertile, and which, when
properly cultivated, are capable of producing all kinds of
grain,
fo Statj/tical Account ~
grain, wheat not excepted. Betides the haugh lands, them
are, in many of the higher parts of the parifb, confiderable
quantities of the land in tillage, the greater part of which
has been improved by lime brought from Eaft Lothian j and9
in favourable feafons, the farmer commonly finds a very good
return. The foil is light and dry. Though, from the ele-
vated fitjoation of the parilh, the climate is cold, yet it is in
general healthy, and few difcafes prevail among the inhabU
tuts.
River.— The only river in the parifh is Whitadder, which
is here a confiderable dream, being about 15 miles from its
fcurce, and having received, in its courfe, the river Dye, the
rivulet Moonyn&k, and numberlefs other fmaller ones. It
abcunds with plenty of trouts, and affords excellent fport to
the angler. Salmon and fea- trout are fometimes foungl in it
in fummer, N though feldon* in great quantities. Prodigious
numbers of them come up during the prohibited months for
fiihing, and lodge their fpawn in the channel of the river*
There is but too much reafon to regret, that the inhabitants
deft roy them at that time, as it tends both to injure their owq
health, by making ufe of the fifli in the weak and unhealthy
flate in which they then are, and is a great prejudice to th^
falmoa-fiJiing in the river Tweed.
Population. — According to Dr. Webfter's report, the num^
ber of fouls then, was 80. There are at prefent 164 inha-
bitants in the pariib, of whom 85 are males, and 79 females \
all of whom, except a few mechanics, are employed in pur.
pofes of hufbandry, either as day-labourers, hired fervants to*
farmers, or Ih'pherds. They are in general fober, frugal,
ajid induftrious, and are contented with their fituation. When
the
Of Abbay of St. Batbant. 6$
the prefenf incumbent was fettled here in I775» ^e number
of inhabitants was 145,
- Agriculture — Though, like other parts of Lammermoor, the*
lands are in general more adapted to the breeding of cattle
aftd iheep than the railing of corn, yet, on all the (^S^ent
farms there are confiderable parts of the ground under culti-
yation ; and on fome of them different kinds of grain, parti*
cnlarly early oats are produced, little inferior in quality to
thofe that are raifed in the lower parts of Berwickfturc. The
chief objeft, however, that the ikilful farmer has in view in
making ufe of the plough in this part of the country, is not
fo much the immediate return from the corn he raifes, as the
meliorating the pafture for his cattle and deep, by fowing his
fields with artificial grafs feeds, particularly rye-grafc and
white clover, which thrive well on all the dry grounds that'
have been improved with lime. Thofe who have followed
this method, have not only been able to keep a much greater
quantity, but have alfo, by this means, an opportunity of
greatly improving the breed both of theircattle andflieep. Tur-
nips are alfo raifed on xnoft of the farms in this neighbour-
hood, though in much fmaller quantities than might be ex-
pe&ed, as the foil is peculiarly adapted to the cultivation of
that ufeful plant *.
* Heritors, Stipend, &c— There arc 6 heritors in this parilh,
none of whom, excepting one of fmall property, are refident.
The
* Priet of £a*0i*r.~*The wages of male Servants who get their board in the
Itoufe, are from 7 1. to 8 J. a-year ; of female fervants, from 3 1, to 4I. Servants
who have families and keep a houfe, are paid in grain, have a cow grazed, and
other perouifitea, which may altogether amount to between I4L and 15I. The
wages of day-labourers are about 1 s. ia winter, and above it ia fusuner ; but is
hay time and harveft, they have coofiderably more.
4
1$ SlaltyliMl' Account
Tbfc rental of the parilh ia about 6ool« anyeor* Tbe6rowA
ispatron of the church. The value of the living; taOcbtBvtdt
the manfe and glebe of 14 acres, is about 52 1. a- year. The
obureais *very ancient building; it Was< fdrtn«rlyrkrgr^n*ea*
fifriBg 5? feet bj 36; but a part of toenail was lately takent
down by the defire of the heritors, and the fiae of 'the cfafcfc
greatly contracted ; it is Hill fufficientiy large ta afccOMffledata?
the inhabitant* of the parifh.
.^ftotyaaVfVx.-— Between the church and the water of Whk*
adder, are the remains of an ancient nunnery; it is ahwoft to-
tally demoE&ed, the ftones halving been carried away- fxfc
other purpofes; from the veiftgee, however; which arefliH1
tobefeen, the building, feema ta have been of cbnfiderabR*
extent; From any materials. that I • have been able to *oHe£rV
this nunnery* of Abbay of St* Bathttrfs, feems to hatcheto
fbsnded by onfe of the Gonnteffes of Mar*, during the reigir4
of King WilHara the Lyon, who facceeded to the Crowrf oP
Scotland 1*1165, and reigned 49 years ; fo that it intiftr hattf
happened, between 1165 and 1214. In 1295, Ada; Counters*
of Mitch, fwore fideKtjrfor this^ntranery to Edward I. Ring'
of- England, who had'thta fubdued great part of ScothM>
awl in return* dareffaed-aWTit to the Ihetiff of BfcrWfck to re-
store to the nunnery all its lands and tenements. It Was a'
cell of South Berwick, and the nuns were of the order of
Bernasdines or Cifrertians, This religions order' had been
begun by Robert, Abbot o* Milefme, fn thr'diocefcof Boiw*
gm in France, in 1098 — were called -Monachi Abbi, White.
Monks, from their wearing white robes, except a black coul
or fcopular— .were called Bernardrnes from Fernard, the great
propagator of the order, who founded 160 raouafteries, di*.
vided into 36 provinces, whereof Scotland was 26th, ^ndhaoV
13 mopafterie*~»werje called* CiOertiaft* from their chief houfo'
*- an©?
Of Ahbay of St. Bat bans. 65
and mooafteries in Ciftejrtiaiii in France. There is in the
wall, near the altar-place in the church, a font ftone with a
lead pipe in the hot ton, and from fprings in the braes to the
loath, the church and buildings adjoining had been fupplied
with water by means of lead pipes, part of Which have been
fcen by people thereabout, after being dug up about 40 years
ago* To the fouth, and round the church and nunnery, were
gardens, now arable land, and on that account were called
*he Precinct Yards, and round the whole had been a walk of
3 tire of (tones, which have alfo been ten by thofe who
raifed part of them. After obferving that the nunnery lies
upon the fouth fide of the water, of Whitadder, it may be
added, that there are pleafant haughs adjoining, (heltered
from the north, by Shannabank wood of natural oak, on a
fteep brae, rifing to a great height, and forming at top a fe-
micirck, and from the eaft, by Blackerftone braes and natu-
ral wood there. On the fouth of tbefe haughs, and at a fmall
diftance from the nunnery, iffues a fpring called St. Bathan's
well, that neither fogs nor freezes, and prevents a dam-lead
from Whitadder ferving a corn-mill below, being locked up
with ice in winter. About a quarter of a mile from the nun-
nery, on the fame fide of the water, lie the foundations of a
fmall chapel and yard holding that name ; but there are no
marks of people having buried in it : about a mile from the
nunnery, on the other fide of the Whitadder, is fituated Trois
Fontaines (3 fprings or wells) on the fide of Manegnnt water
which empties into the Whitadder here, where the remains
of a chapel and burying- ground are yet extant. It has al-
ways been handed down, that a fubterraneous paffage went
from the nnnnery of St. Bathan's, below the water of Whit-
adder, to this chapel, where the nuns pafled along to be con*
feffed by the clergy from Goldingham, who had a houfe at
God's croft in this parifb, and at a little diftance from the
Vol. XII. I chape}.
66 Satiftical Account
chapel. Trots Fontaines was alto a cell of South Berwick ;
but I have not been able to find any writings relating to it, and
fo can give no further account of it.
Trees, Game, &c. — On the lands of Abbay and farms ad-
joining, grow naturally the oak, the mountain-a(h, the hazel,
the birch tree, befides other trees ; the honeysuckle, the a-
nife, the rafp, the juniper, the brier, and bramble, &c. On
the lands are plenty of moorfowl, partridge, gray plover,
hares, rabbits, &c.
Country Seat — T beg leave to add, that about a mile eaft
from the village of Abbay, is a country feat of the Earl of
Wemyfs, called the Retreat. It was built by his Lord flap about
-32 years ago, upon his eftate of Blackerftone, and though
not within the bounds of this parilh, deferves to be taken no-
tice of in the fiatiftical account of it, as it tends very much
to beautify this part of the country. The houfe is of a cir-
cular form, and built after a new and fiogular plan : as the
•elegant fimplioity of the archite&ure, the neatnefs and con-
venience of the different apartments, and the manner in which
the grounds around it are laid out, do great credit to the tafte
of the proprietor ; fo its retired iituation on the banks of the
Whitadder, in die heart of a mountainous country, together
with natural wood, and the extenfive plantations with which
' it is furrounded, render it a truly delightful and romantic re-
treat.
NUM-
Of Southdean. 67
NUMBER VI.
PARISH o* SOUTHDEAN.
(Couktt of Roxburgh, Synod of Merse and Tiviotdale,
presbytery of jedburgji.)
By the Rev. Mr. William Scott.
Name j Extent, Surface, Climate*
SOUTHDEAN, the name of the pari(b, is evidently de-
scriptive of its local fituation, and the former ftate of
the furrounding country, as it is probable that all the neigh*
bouring pariflies were anciently one continued foreft. The
extent of the parifh is about 1-2 miles long, and 7 broad ;
this proportion continues about 9 miles, and gradually di-
minifhes into a narrow fpace. There are different kinds of
foil ; gravel, a light black earth, and a ftrong clay, in the
lower parts ; along the Jed, it is gravel, inclining to heath ; :
from thence, to the afcent of the hills, it is light earth, and
upon their declivity, it is flrong clay. The prefent arable
ground is very inconfideiable, as great part of the parifh is
I 2 more
6$ &tatiftical Account
more adapted to (beep paftnre. The few hills are green and
dry. The air is moift and chilly ; greatly changes in different
parts of the parilh : all kinds of farm work can be carried 09
in the lower grounds, wh£n it rains, or even a fall of (how .
appears in the heights. It is, however, a healthy parUh.
There are at prefent inhabitants above 80 years of age. The
difcafes moft common, are rkeumatib&s* pains » die ftomach
and bowels, owing, likely, to^tjie low and damp firuation of
their honfes. Jn former times, the fmall-pox frequently pre-
Tailed, and in fome feafons almoft depopulated the country.
About 1 a years ago, tjiis fatal difeafe raged in the- lower parts
of Tiviotdale, which determined Lord Douglas to hold out
the advantages of inoculation to the poorer fort in this pa-
rifh. The phyfician, employed by his Lordihip, was fuc*
ceisful. Inoculation is now become almoil univcrfally the
pra&ice.
Po^K&rion— According to Dr. Webfler's report, the num-
ber of fouls then, was 480. From tradition, as well as in-
numerable veftiges and wins of houfes, population muft have
been confiderable about a century ago, and, from general opi-
nion, it is greatly diminiihed. In a late measurement of the
Foreft eftate in this pariih, the arable land is computed al
4865 acres, the evident traces of former times j the prcfen*
arable ground is limited to a few hundred acres. It is laid,
the examination- roll in 1724, amounted to upwards of 1600*
An accurate lift of the inhabitants was taken about 17 years
ago, and fell (hort of 900. T^is decreafe became rapid, from
the junction of farms. There are at prefent 714 fouls in the
pariih : above 10 years of age 369. The number of deaths
cannot be fo well ascertained, and the marriages ftill lefe.
'The annual number of births is 10.
OfScutbdtan. 69
Steep, Hor/ti, fee.*— It has long been the farmers greateft
ftudy to introduce the beft kinds of {beep. Individuals have
much improved their flocks, both from acquired knowledge
and information, and with more certain advantages, by their
own experience, obfervation, and dailj prafiice. Moft farm-
er* keep a part of their (beep white. Smearing, however, is
$ill generally in pra&ice in this parifli. It is faid to increafe
the quantity of wool. It prefcrves the flieep alfo from the in-
fluence of rains, from fcab, and vermin of every fort. There
are 130 bodes in the parifli, 418 black cattle, and it is be-
lieved about 17,000 iheep. The laid wool in this parifli, fold
Jaft year from 18 s. to aos. the ftone, and the white wool ae
1 L 4s. the ftone. Seven or eight fleeces go to a ftone.
Stipend, Stbocl, Poor, &c.— The King is patron of the old
parifli of Abbotrule, and Lord Douglas of Soutbdean. The
ftipend is ioa 1. 1 s. Sterling, a manfe and a glebe ; in all
amounting to 117 1. Sterling yearly. The church was
built in 1690, and the manfe in 1 736, both in extremely bad
prder. The fchoolmafter is accommodated with a houfe and
garden. The (alary is 81. .4$. 8d. Sterling. This, with
. fhe fchool wages, and various emoluments, makes a living of
20 1. Sterling. The number of poor is about a a. Their
maintenance amounts to 56 1. a- year, arifing from aflefiments,
Sundays collections, and the morteloth dues.
Crops.— The chief crops in this parifli are oats and barley.
Potatoes are common. The culture of turnip has been at-
tempted with good faced*. Part of the annexed lands of Ab-
botrule is well adapted to turnip-hulbandry. Grounds covered
with broom, heath, from this beneficial pra&ice, produces a-
bundant
70 Statjftical Account
bondant crops of clover and rye-graft. Valued rent is 6j?7 1.
5 s. Scots i real rent may be ftated at 3500 1. Sterling*.
Proprietors, Tenants, &c, — There are 4 proprietors, % cob-
ftantly refidc. There are 22 greater, and 19 fxnaller tenants ;
36 ftiepherds, 4 mafonsf 7 Wrights, 2 blackfmiths, 5 tailors, 8
weavers.
Jju/.— The fuel made ufe of is of various kinds. Peat,
from different moffes, constituted formerly the principal fuel,
and turf from the moors ; the whole fummer was fpent in
colle&ing fuel. Peat and turf are now u&d in fmall quanti-
ties. Coal at 4 d. the load, chiefly from Ryechcfter in Nor-
thumberland. A double cart carries 6 loads : the diftance is
about 1 j miles* The carriage colts 8 s. befides the pufchafc-
znoney.
J^ttflrri//.— There are many quarries of free-ftone, and in*
exhauftible quarries of lime-ftone, in the higher parts of the'
parifli. There is alfo an excellent quarry of white hard done,
which is ufed for chimney-grates, as it endures the greateft
beats, and will laft for many years,
Antiquities* — Many tumuli, commonly called cairns, are to
be fcen in different parts of the parifli. Stones have been led
away
• Scarcity 178a and 1783.— The crop was very deficient, and the poor were
reduced to great diftrefs. Every method was taken by the attention of the he-
ritors* to increafe the poor's funds. This could only reach to fuch as were upon
the roll, and found inadequate to their neceffities. Many labourers fuflfered ta«
ntraoft hardships ; and what added to the general calamity, the frofted oats and
barley gave a noxious quality to the meal. In thefe deplorable circumftances,
Lord Douglas humanely directed his agent in the country to buy good whole,
fome food. The bounty was continued, both to the poor upon the lift, and all
indigent householders in the parifli.
OfSoutbdcan. 71
away to the turnpike roads. In the centre of the heap, fquare
ftones were placed, fo as to form a kind of cheft, and human
bones were difcovered. There is alfo one place, where it is
laid a chapel ftood before the Reformation, 3 miles from
the old church, but almoft no veftige of its walls now appears.
There are ruins of many old towers, in mod parts of the pa-
rim. None of them appear to have been large. In fome
places they ft and nearly entire. At the village of Che Iters,
and maify other places, on the adjacent heights, there are like-
wife to be feen the ruins of ftrong fortifications or camps. The
form is round, and, in general, quite diftinft. None of the
camps are large, may comprehend &bove an acre of ground,
and are furrounded with a double wall of earth. There is no
appearance of any ftone-woik about them, except in the mid-
dle, which feems paved with freeftone. Each camp is appa-
rently ftationed within view of Southdean-law, as tradition
fays, a place of pbfervation, on which fires were kindled at the
approach of an enemy.
Advantages and Disadvantages.- -This parifh long laboured
under the greateft op^reffion ; the numerous droves of black
cattle and fheep pafling into England, infefted and overfpread
the bed p aft are ground. Every returning feafon opened a
new fcene of difpute, teafing, anxiety and diftrefs to the tenant.
Many regulations were framed. Boundaries fixed. Lawlefs
trefpafs maintained its ufual inroads. It does great honour to
the gentlemen in this part of the country, that they have, with
fpirited and determined exertion, defigned and extended roads
of ^public advantage, and of parochial utility. The road
from Ncwcaftle at the Carter-toll, branches into this pa-
rifh in two directions : the one line leads to Jedburgh, and
the other to Hawick, which at once reftores the farmer to
the free and peaceable pofleflion of his lands, g< ves an eafy ac-
cefs
jz Statijiical Account.
ccfs to coal rod lime at Ryechefter, and perpetuates a comma*
nication with the neighbouring kingdom, without moleftatioa
or injury. The principal disadvantage is want of fbelter, de-
fence from the fcorching fan in furamer, and prote&ion ia
winter from the piercing winds, frequent and violent rains,
and deftroying blafts of fnow. The arable land in this pariih,
under the mod cautious and prudent management, fpeedily
xeturns to its native barren foil. From the lame caufe, the
heft breed of fheep may degenerate into the moft unprofitable
animal; whilfi growing Jhelter furnilhes certain experience,
and eftabliflhes the means of recovering high and expofed fili-
ations into a found and healthy ftate, and of improving and
preserving the quality of the flock*
NUM-
Of K*ir> 73
NUMBER VIL
PARISH of KEIRi
(County and Stnod of Dumfries, Presbytery of Ftfu
FONT.)
By tie Aev. Mr. James Wallace.
Extent, Soil and Rivers.
THIS parifh is about 8 miles long from &• to W. Th4
breadth is unequal ; about 24- miles, or near 3 on an
average. The foil is, in general, light, dry, and fertile, with
a fandy, gravelly bottom, and produces heavy crops of grain
and grafs, in wet fliowery feafons, but is greatly parched, and
far lefs produ&ive in hot dry feafons. There is fome holm
land on the banks of the Nith and Scarr, confifting of a deep
rich loam, and produces fine crops in any feafon. The land
that lies higheft and neareft the hilly ground, is, in general,
excepting the holms, the deepeft yid ftrongeft, but fo full of
Hones, as to render the cultivation of it difficult and expen*
five. More than a third part of the pari(h confifts of hilly
ground, or (heep-walks, moftly covered with (bort heath, in-
Vol. XII. S tcrfperfe*
74 Statiftical Account
terfperfed with bent, and other kinds of grafs, neither very
coarfe nor very fine, but generally allowed to be very good
flieep-pafture. There are no rivers in the pariih, except thofe
already mentioned, which run along the N. and S. £. fide of
k» Into thefe, feveral little rivulets, or, as they are common-
ly called, burns, from the high or hilly grounds, empty them-
selves.
Woods and Plantations. — There is a eonfiderable extent of
statural wood in different parts of the pariih, confiding chiefly
of oak and afh, with fome birch and alder* In the woods up-
en theeftatc of Barjarg, is an oak tree remarkable for its great
fize and age. At the root, it is about I4f feet in circumfe-
rence, and it lofes very little of its thicknefs at the height of
30 feet. Its age cannot now be afcertained, but it mult cer-
tainly be feveral hundred years old. The higheft branches*
feem now to be beginning to decay. There are alfo fome
plantations, confiding moftly of fir. Thefe plantations, toge-
ther with the natural woods, add much to the beauty of the
place, and in ftormy weather afford fhelter to the cattle graz-
ing in them, and in the adjoining fields. '
Climate and Difeafes.*—Tbt climate is rather moift and damp,
owing to the continued ridge of hills, on the S. fide of the pa-
rifli, intercepting and breaking the clouds into rain, which
is poured down on the fides of the hills, and thofe places that
are near them,, much more frequently, and more plentifully p
than on the plain and level grounds at a greater diftance from
them. To this caufe, perhaps, are to be afcribed the flow
nervous feVets, rheumatifnts, and afthmatic diforders, which
ftern to be more prevalent here, than any other difeafes.
Proprietors, Agriculture, &c. — There are 5 proprietors,
oner
Of Ktir, 75
-one of whom refides conftantly, two occaGonally, and two ne-
ver. The farmers, in general, when they break up a field,
.take two or three white crops from it, after that a green crop,
•or a fummer fallow, which is fucceeded by a crop of barley,
along with which they fow grafe-feeds, and ky out the field,
-cutting the grafs two years, and pad u ring it two or three
more, before it is broken up again. They, for moil part, ufe
the little clofe jointed Scota plough, commonly drawn by two
Tories, and fometimes by three, where the land is ftiff, and
has never been well cultivated, and properly dreffed before*
Lime is much ufed here as a manure, and is found to anfwer
very well. Many of the farmers fpread it upon the furface
9 or xo months before they plough their field. Others again
plough their field, and give it a flight harrowing, before they
ipread the lime upon it, after which th^ey fow their oats, and
then harrow it completely. This method leems to anfwer
better, as, by thefe means the lime is fooner mixed and incor-
porated with the foil. The quantity of lime mull be adapt-
ed to the nature of the land on which it is laid. Deep, ftrong,
ftiff land requires more than a ihallow, loofe, open foil does.
The quantity ufed for one acre is from 50 to 80 meafures of
ihells, the meafure containing two ^ anchefter bufliels. One
liming is found to ferve very well for two courfes of crops,
and fometimes three, before the liming is repeated. And
when it is repeated, half the quantity that was laid on the
field at firft, or little more, is found to be fufficient. It is ob*
ferved, Jiowever, that at the end of every courfe of crops, the
field is renewed with dung, along with a green crop, or by *
/ummer fallow *•
K a There
* Seed Time and Harvcft. Wheat is (own from t,hc beginning of October
to the end of November. Oats, peafc, and flax, from the middle of Match to
<the loth of April. Barky and potatoes from the 20th of April to the%mid(Jle
4>i May. Turnip from the middle of June to the loth of July. Harvests or-
dinary
7$ Statiftical Account
There is bat little wheat raifed in the parifb, as the foil, in
general, is found to be too light, for producing an advanta-
geous crop of it, not more than 15 or 20 acres yearly, worth
from 7 L to 8 1. Sterling the acre. Barley is raifed in much
greater abundance, from xoo to 120 acres yearly, worth, at
an average, about 4L 10 s. the acre. Between 400 and 5C0
acres of oats are fown annually, worth, at an average, about
3 1. 10 s. the acre. There alfo are large fields of potatoes, a-
bout 70 or 80 acres yearly, worth from 8 1. to xol. the acre,
70 or 80 acres of peafe are raifed annually, worth from 3 1. to
4 1. the acre. The farmers in the pariih have hitherto fown
no more flax than is neceffary for the ule of their own fami-
lies. The real rent is about 1509 1., reckoning 10 1. per cent*
on the graflums given for fome farms, and adding that to the
yearly rent of them *.
Towns, Villages, Inns, and Ale-Houfes.SEhtt* are neither
towns nor villages in the parifli, a few houfes near the church
hardly deferving the name of a village. Nor are there any
inns. There are a or 3 ale- houfes, or, as they fhould more
properly be called whifky-houfes, for whifky is the principal
article they deal in, and they have a great demand for it*
The pernicious practice of drinking whiiky has made a very
rapid
dinary feafons, begins a]>out the acth of Auguft, and ends about the beginning
of October, but for fome years paft has been confiderably later.
• Wages of Servants and Labourers, fcc—The wages of men labourers are
8 d. a-day with victuals, and i s. 2 d. without victuals. The wages of women
for working at peats, hay-making, and other farm work, is 5 d. with their diet*
and 9 d. and ipd. without it. In barveft, both men and women are commonly
8 d. a-day, with victuals, and 1 s. ifli 1 s. 2 d. when they furnifh their own pro*
Tifions. The day's wages of a mailer mafon, carpenter, and flatcr, are 2 s. ; of a
ttuTo", 8 d. with victuals. The average wages of farming men fervants are
| L yearly with bed and board ; and of women 3 I. 10 s. The wages of domeftic
fcrrantf are much the fame with thofe of farm fervants.
Of Keir. 77
rapid progrcfs in this corner of the country within a few
years laft paft. It is purchafed at a very low price, and a
fmall quantity of it is fofficienti not only to intoxicate, but
even to make a man mad. Its pernicious effe&s upon the
morals, the induftry, and the confutations of thofe who are
addi&ed to it, muft be vifible to every fober obferver.
Roads.— The principal road in the parilh is in very indif-
ferent repair. A part of it is Hill in its natural ftate, and
thofe parts of it, that have been repaired, were done in a
very fuperficial manner. The converfion of the ft at ute- la-
bour, amounts to little more than t^\. a-year, which might
keep our roads in repair, if they were once fufficiently made ;
but will by no means borh make, and keep them in proper
order. The badnefs of our roads is a great bar to improve-
- ments of every kind.
Church, Stipend, School, Poor, &d — The church was re-
paired* about 30 years ago, but has never been properly feat-
ed, and the number of inhabitants having increafed confider-
ably of late years, it is rather too fmall for their accommoda-
tion. The manfe and offices were all new built in the year
1778, and are in very good repair. His Grace the Duke of
Queenfberry is patron of the parifh. The ftipend is 700 1.
Scots money, and 3 chalders of victual, two- thirds of which
are meal, and one-third bear ; which, with the manfe, and
glebe of about 8 acres, may be reckoned worth about 90 1.
yearly. — The pariih fchool is inconveniently fituated, being
about a miles too near the upper or weft end of the parifh,
by which the lower or eaft end is in a great meafure deprived
of the benefit of it. The number of fcholars, in the winter
feafon, is between 30 and 40, during the reft of the year they
*re not fo numerous, many of them being employed in herd*
iflgt
$B ' St atj/ilcal^it count
ing, or any other occupations fuited to their years and ftrengtb*
The fchool falary is 100I. Scots, with a free houfe. Hie
fchool fees are very trifling : far teaching Englifh is, 3d. the
quarter ; writing and arithmetic 1 s. 6d* No Latin has been
taught here for many years, — The poor who regularly receive
alms from the kirk*fefiion, are 6. They are f applied from
the col ltd ions in the church on Sundays, and the rntercil of
a fmall fum appropriated to their ufe, amounting in all to
about 1 2 1. a-year. They are all maintained in their own
houfe s. They earn about a half or tw.o- thirds of ttyeir own
maintenance ; and none of them beg from door to door. The
pari&y however, is much infefted with beggars who do not
belong to, nor refide in it.
Population, &c— According to Dr. Wehfter's report, the
number of fouls then, was 495. The population of the pa-
rifh has increafed confiderably of late years. In the year 1778,
the number of fouls did not exceed 300, whereas they are
jjow 52c. This increafe is chiefly to be afcribed to two
caufes j the divifion of large farms into f mailer ones, and t
lime work which was begun a few years ago, of which we
ihall take more particular notice afterward. Of the inha-
bitants of the parifh, 1 a are Anliburgher Seceders ; 12 are
Cameronians ; all the reft are of the Eftabliflied Church.
There are 3 blackfmiths, 4 carpenters, 2 mafons, 8 weavers,
and 4 tailors. All the other inhabitants of the parifh are
farmers, and their cottagers, who live in detached houfes,
.there beings as was before obfetved, neither towns nor viU
lages in it. .
Number of Horfes, Black Cattle, Sheep, &c— There are
120 horfes, moflly of the Scots breed, ftrong made, and very
jhaxdy. There are a few of the breed of Ireland, which gene-
rally
Of Kciu 79
rally improve here, and are found to anfwer every purpofe of
the farmer. Their value, at an average, may be about 14I.
Sterling, each. There are about 280 milch cows, with, their
calves, or followers as they are called, ufually kept in the
parifh; worth, at an average, about 61. Sterling each. The
number of fheep in the diftrid does not exceed 1880; they
are the common Scots kind, white on the body, and black oa
the face and legs ; they are very hardy, but their wool is
ftrong and rather coarfe. No fwine are bred in the aiftri&«
Moft of the farmers bay a pig or two annually, which they
feed for the ufe of their own families.
Fuel, Sec* — The greater part of the parifh is but indifferent-
.]y provided with fuel, for though there is Come mofs about
the middle of the parifh, it is at a confiderable diiiance from
the extremities of it, and consequently to the inhabitants of
thefe parts, very expenfive. The greater part of the fuel
ufed here, is coal from Sanquhar, which is likewife very ex-
penfive, being carried about 14 miles. Nor is this all : of
late years it has been of a very bad quality; and the demand
for it is fo great, that the carters are often detained 24, and
fome times 48 hours, before they can be ferved. And it can-
not but be fuppofed that there mull be a great demand for
coal at Sanquhar, when it is confidered that there is no other
coal-work in Nithfdale, Annandale, the (hire and ftewartry
of Galloway. The lower parts of Annandale, and of Nithf-
dale, and all along the fca-coaft of Galloway, would be fup-
plied with coal from England, at a moderate and eafy rate,
were it not for the high duty, amounting alfo to a prohibi-
tion, laid upon them. Were this duty abolifhed, the de-
mand at Sanquhar would be greatly leflened, and confequent-
ly this part of the country much better fupplied.
About
8e Statijiical Account
About 6 years ago, a lime rock was difoovered in the.
eftate of fiarjarg, and from that time has been carried on
with confiderable fuccefs* The rock feems to be inexhauili-
ble, but has about 14 feet deep of earth above it ; the remov-
ing of which is attended with no fmall expenfe. Between 30.
and 46 hands are conilantly employed for 7 or 8 months in
the year, when they continue to burn lime ; but not fo many
during the reft of the year. Between 20,000 and 30,000
meafuits, in (hells, have been fold annually ; the meafbre, as
before obferved, containing % Winchefter bufhels. It is fold
at gd. the meafure, and as the lime is of an excellent qua-
lity, it is not improbable that the demand for it will in-
crease*
Chara&er of the People, Sec. — The people, in general, are
fbber and induftrious, though it mull be confefied, that, fince
the pernicious pradice of drinking whifky became fo pre-
valent, fhere are too many exceptions. They enjoy, in a
reasonable degree, the necefiaries, and even the comforts and
conveniences of life, and are, generally, as contented with
theit^'fittiation, a% moil people. Their condition, however,
iB^ghtlrc meliorated, were our roads put into proper repair*
the duty on the Englifh coal abolifhed, the inhabitants bet-
ter fupplied with coal from Sanquhar, and the heavy mul-
tures, which they are bound to pay to the mills to which
they are thirled, removed. More than one-half of the pa-
rift* pays the eleventh peck as multure, befides paying the
miller for working or grinding their grain. This is cer-
tainly a very great difcouragement to improvements ia agri-
culture.
NUM-
pf Bam • 4%
Dumber vni
i>ARiSH of BAftR.
(toisvii or" Aril, Stood* or Glasgow amd Atr* Prksi*-
• tert or Atr.).
By the kev. Mr. Stephen Yo^kg.
Patron, Stipend, %$c.
BARR was eie&ed into a parifh in the year 1653, former-
ly anriexed to the parities of Girvatf and Dailly. The
parifh feemi to have felted it* name from a final! eUate called
Barr, ttpott which the kirk Hands; The Crown to patron*
The ftipend is xeo 1. a-yerir, Befidea glebe and maafe.
Population.— -According to Dr. Webfter's report, the mat-
ter of fools then #as 858; Of inhabitants at prefent them
are 75*, of whom 115 are tinder 8 years of age ; males $96,
females 364, Fot 20 years prior to 179X9 there' appears from
the parHk records, male* born in the parifh x$t, females' 155 5
in all J50; marriages in the above time 129 * and burials
286. For 20 years prior to 1791.9 upon an average, them ap-
Vol. XII; . L peats
<|p Statijliccd 4ce<mnt
pears to have been annually males bom in the parifh 5 (hoi*
of xo ; females 5 fliort of 8 ; total to fhort of 18 ; of mar*
riages 7 fliort of 7 annnallj \ and of burials 6 fliort of 15 an*
anally. The parifh feems to have contained more inhabitant*
in former times than at prefent. In the year 1770, there
Were born in the parifh, males 15, females la, total 17. la
the year 1790, males 7, females 4, total 11. In the year 179ft
males 9, females 6, total 1 5. Popolatipn in this parifh has de-
creased much for thefe 30 years ; and die reafon is obvious,
proprietors of lands of late years have caft two or more of
their farms into the hands of one tenant ; by which means, in
place of a family with cottagers and fervants upon almoft cvc~
ty farm, there are fome farms in whicl} there is not one in-
habitant, and many where a fhepherd man fervant and bis fa-
mily alone occupy the farm, which is no more than is abfo*
lutely neceffary to herd the grounds.. Of mechanics, there, are a
millers, 4 blackfmiths, 1 2 weavers, 6 mafons, 3 carpenters, %
ihoemakers, 5 tailors, 5 inkeepers. Of farmers 46 ; there are
many more farms in the pariih ; fome individual farmers hold
fome a, others 3, 4, or 5 farms. There is onefeceder.
Antiquities. — There is, about a mile S. W. of the parifli
ehurch, the remains of an old Popifh chypel, Handing on an
eminence, by a (mall river called Stenchcr. There axe no
traditional accounts worthy of communicating concerning this
chapel : it is called Kiri Domuur9 the Kirk of our Lady, fup-
pofied to.be dedicated in hooonr of the Virgin Mary. When it
was built, is uncertain.; but k had been in fome repair in the
year 1 6 J3, as the roof was then taken down, and put upon tbe
parifh church. Though there is no village at this chapel, but
one. (mall farm-houfe only, yet there is a great annual fait
held here upon the lad Saturday of May, called Kirk Domi*
jjas}J?air,
Afineral
pf Bart. S3
Mineral Spring and ' Minerals.— This parift being a hilly
country, abounds with fprings of fine water, many of then*
mineral* But there is one called Shalloch-well,* vrhich has
defervedly the pre-eminence. The virtues of this water are '
well known in this country ; it is a pretty ftrong chalybeate, *
and partakes of the fulphur alfo to no inconfiderable degree.
About 3t> years ago, people of the firft rank and faQrion in "
Carrick and the neighbourhood, attended this well ; but this
is not the cafe at prefect; every feafon, however, produces
fame company, and the waters have been rarely known to fail '
in giving relief to perfons affli&ed with ftomachic or fecfrbutfc :
diforders. The reafon why this' water Is in a great meafnre '
deferted, is the want bf proper accommodation at the weH. '
There is freeftone in the parifli, and; abundance of liraeftone.
No coal has yet been found in it ; and through want of a road '
to the coal-pit, on the water 6f Girvan,' the inhabitants are ne- r
ceffitated to depend 'principally upon turf and peat for fuel. £
It is fuppofed that this, like many high countries, foffefles r
valuable minerals $ for certain, there is lead in it; but the trial,
properly • fpeaking, has never been made ' (though once at- •
tempted) to find out whether it would be to the advantage of
the proprietor to follow after this valuable artiole.
Climate. — The climate is not by any means unfavourable to
health. The parifli is extenfive ; the inhabitants fparfe,' and
families living «t a diftance from each*other, con tribute* much
to the felubrity of the place, Tliere is a village at the parifli '
church, {rut it does not contain above 85 inhabitants, old and
young. An eminent furgeon in this neighbourhood, now fome :
years dead, who -pra&rfed in this country near 50 years, wis *
in ufe to obferve, that in all that time he never knew an epi- '
demical diftemper in this parifli. * There have been many in*
$ances of longevity in the parifli, of people living confidently
If * abpvn
8^ Statiftical 4ccomft
above So years. There js a poor old woman in the village
wjio mud, from her own account, hje above 90 ; £ke remcm?»
bers well ih,e yoijng men in tibia place learning tfre *fe of arms
in the year 1715, and was reaping on a corn-ridge, * big Uf*
about 18 yep? of age, when the above men p^flcfl by to join
the fyyaliijb ; fee j^very bealjtjby, and a£le t^ walk abouf
with her £aff. Coafriagtiops prevail moft io t^a place.
j$gric$Uure.—-Thi3 parifli is partly arable, ^ cectfifis
principally of pafture-grounds. ^JLs to improvements of any
fopt, it jpaay be faid to be in its naturaj ftajc. Though there if
plenty of lime io the p vUfr, yet the jranjt of roads readers i%
difficult*? ppcure <?aajs, io ofder to prepare Jfjnfrfton* fo
the pnrpofe of improving die ground* a but ff a free ooqa-
mnnicariori wa$ ppened between the coal-worjts ppon the v*,
*er of <f iiyan and this pjacp, *y majtfog a gmd road, wbfeb
is in extent about 4^ miles only; improvements flPgpit fi»A
their jray tp this parf of tfce country alfo, dp qtfqre of (ho
grounds in this parifb is fiicb, that tfcey produce but very
poor fcanfy crops, without limp, or marie $ therefore the far-
mer? here plough but very lif tie ,, bat tfrofc yrho lpve made
any attempts by paeans of the lime, have had considerable re*
turns*
Jttati CatfZr.—In tbis pariih the farmer's a^teatiqphas been
principally dire$? d to the breed of b}*ck cattle, and has fnc*
ceeded. Jp tbis particular, ttyey have ajfained to great per-
feftion. Carrick produces, peri|aps, as buutfomc bjack cattle
as any gWt of Scotland $ bflt not the duke only, but the utiU
is to be ta^en iffto conspiration. It is a fad founded upon
repeated experiment, that the haadfome Qarrick cattle are
mifch ^a^gr {fed, and at mv^ch left ex penfe, than the crofs mado
hpok-bp^cd ca^Je of lie % ^ that paft we wbkb can bring
''~ th$
. Of Barn 85
tfc#j$atft feode cattle to a keeping condition only, will make
the Carrick blade cattle thorough fat ; and that pafture which
can bring this tat*? into a middling condition only, will fcarce
be cibljQ te k*ep the former in life. Cattle reared in this
country, and £44 tt.tfep igc of j, or ji years (from die moors)
will ^riogfrom 4L io.$» (0 5 L J s. each ; and'if put upon low
lying *n$W«d p«ftt|t* for an year, they will be ready for the
Fjgtifli marked and bring from 6 1. xo s. to 8 1. efrti. Thia
jpafi% i* foppofed tq hold from 1500 to aooo black cattle.
Cbtvi** £$*>/, &c.t~Ij: would be well for the farmers here,
pewld fs nw^h be faid for their (keep ftock ;. but thia cannot
J* nxpe$ed, fo long as fo many black cattle are reared in the
pariih; They not onjy.lefleu the quantity of food, being per.
mitted to pafture among the (beep, but poach the furface with
fbftf fcet, and even the grafs which fprings where the cattle
dung, if nnwfcolnfome frr A*«P« Sheep in thia pariJh are in*
ftrior in point pf ftrength to the iheep in Crawfordmoor, but
jmk& bette* ftt. Wedders 3 and 4 years old from the comma*
Jiill pafture here, when come to the beft . flate of flefii the
grounds bring them, between Michaelmas and Martinmas,
will weigh from 10 to 14 pound Euglifli the quarter, and pro-
d&c£tallorwlrom 9 to 1 a pounds EngKfli, and fell at from tol.
to 13L the fcore. The pafture ground of this pariih is for
xaoft part dry ; ita hilla confift partly of heath, but moftly
what is pelted white ground, and, as one might judge, not un-
favourable to the improvement of wool, by means of the Che*
viot breed, . The writer of tbefe remark* is the rather inolin-
ed to think fo from die following experiment, now making in
th# pariih : Two fcore of' ewe hogs; and a ram of the Che-,
vipc breed, were put upon a form called Tarrafeflbck, Juno
*Ha, Ike property of the Earl of Caflttis, pofiefled by Mr.
WHutofyta of Ghangue. This farm is one of the higbeft in
the
86 Statijlical Account
the pari(b, and confequendy fubje& to florin. The hogs hare
plenty of coarfe grafs, and fuch attention paid to them a*
ought to be paid to ftranger, or what is called hefting
{keep. But, considering the wetnefs of the* harveft, die
ftormy winter and fpring, the hogs and ftranger hogs, too,
brought to a high cdld farm; from aU this it1 might have been
expected, that moft, if not all of this Cheviot breed, would
have died during the courfe of the winter. But, what is afto-
nifhing, upon the 37th March 1 793, two days ftnce, they were .
all alive, and likely to do well, which is by no means the cafe
with the natives either upon that farm, or thole of the neigh-
bourhood. This. has been a very fiekly feafon, and, by all :
accounts, every where upon the S. and W. of Scotland, the-
fall of fheep has been confiderable, through -poverty and difc
cafe.
• The wool of thk parifli is greatly faperior to that at Crtwt*
ferdxnoor, bnt inferior to the fmall white faced fheep in Pen- ;
ningham or Mochrum in Galloway, or that of the fheep on -
the Shore of Dunnure in this county. Wool in this parifh -
fells from 4I. 10s. to 6 1. the pack ; from 7 s. 6d to 10s the*
flone ; and as it takes 10 fleeces for moft part to the ftooe, -
each fleece fold in wholefale, brings from $d. to 1 s. die fleece.
Ayrfhire ftone is 24 lib. Engtifh. This pariih is fuppofed *
to keep 15,000 fheep.
It muft be obferved in favour of the Cheviot breed, (but
by no means to exaggerate in favour even of them) ; thofe
of the Cheviot breed in this parifli, though hogs (and every ;
ftoremafter knows that hog wool is by far the coarieft of the ■'
wool) laft feafon produced wool greatly fuperior in quality '
and quantity to the wool of this pariih. The wool of the ;
natives, or, what may be called the fhort fheep Of the farm "
of Tarrafeffock, where the hogs of the Cheviot breed, or long «
£heep, p^fture, and of the farms in the neighbourhood, fells at
7 s. 6d.
Of Bat r. 87
jp»»6d. the ftone, pd* the fleece, taking zo fleeces to the
Hone. 50 fcore of iheep at this rate will bring in wool 37 L
103.} but die wool of the long iheep, or Cheviot breed in
the parifh, gave laft feafon 15 s. the ftone, 7^ fleeces to the
.ftone, % s. the fleece ; 50 fcore of which, at this rate, would
bring zoo L Fine wool in the lower parts of Galloway brings
from 12 s. to 14 s. the ftone. Suppofe it to bring 15 s. the
Hone, there is ftill this confideration in favour of the Cheviot
breed. The Galloway fine wool will take 14, 15, or even 16
fleeces to the ftone ; fuppofe, in general, 15 fleeces, the Che-
viot breed in this pariih, though of the finall kind, take Ji
fleeces only to the ftone. It therefore follows, that when 30
Galloway iheep bring 1 1. zos. for two ftone of wool, 15
fleeces, and 15 s. the ftone, the Cheviot breed, in number 30,
.will bring 3 L, four ftone of wool taking yi fleeces, and giv-
ing 15 s. each ftone* *
It is aflerted that the Cheviot breed will require much bet-
ter feeding, confequently more grafs than the natives of this
country. This obfervation may be well founded ; but the
queftion is, how far, and whether, upon this fuppofition, the
Cheviot breed of iheep called the long iheep, may not be the
moil advantageous ftock ftill ?
Suppofc a farm holding 50 fcore, or zoco fhort iheep, the
natives of the country, ihould not be able to keep above 40
, fcore, or 800 of the long iheep, 50 fcore of ihort iheep will
bring 37 1. zos., at the rate of 7 s. 6d. the ftone, 9d. each
fleece, taking zo fleeces to the ftone ; 40 fcore of long iheep,
taking 7* fleeces to the ftone, giving 15 s. the ftone, will
bring 80 1. Further, if 40 fcore of long, eat the grafs of
50 fcore of ihort iheep, it may be prefumed that the long
iheep is a fifth part ftronger in the bone, and, if brought to a
like ftate of fat with the fhort, will, in their carcafe, weigh a
fifth part more, give a fifth part more tallow, confequently a
fifth part more money. Therefore the produce of* 40 fcore
of
• 88 Stati/iical Account
of long {keep, in point of carcafe, ihould bring" as moch ma*
ney la that of 50 fcore of fluxrt {beep.
It may be obferred that the fltins of flteep flaughttf r** it
er after Michaelmas, are of confiderabfe value, and principal-
ly from the wool upon them. But it has been already flwwa,
that the wool of long iheep is 1 s. 3d. the fleece prfcffcrtehfe
to the generality of the wool of this place. Suppose, then,
40 fcore of long iheep caft off annually for fale, fat wedelers
and ewes, and parking ewes to fcore, 1 s. 3d. each ikin, *al.
so a. ; call it 1 s. e%ch ikin preferable to thofe of the fhbrt
iheep, 10 fcore of flrins, at this rate, will bring 10 I.f which,
together with the Sol. formerly mentioned is the price of the
wool ftorn from off the long iheep, makes, in whole, 90 1.
Therefore a farm holding 50 fcore ftort iheep, and able to
keep 40 fcore long, will advance the wool by means of the
Cheviot breed, from 37 1. 10 s. to 90 1. ; and' the foregoing
observations being juft, will, in other refpeds, be equally ad-
vantageous. Suppofe fuch a farm brings of grofs produce
from 50 fcore of ftort Iheep 1 50 1, annually, the fame farm,
by means of the Cheviot breed, keeping 40 fcore, wiH; of
grofo produce, bring 200 1.
The writer of the above remarks has feen and examined thfe
llato in which the long fheep in this parrfir are. He had an
opportunity of feeing the wool, alfo die produce of the Che-
viot hogs kft feafon, he has certain information of the price
that wool brought ; and he believes, both from the general
charader of the Galloway fine wool, and from information,
that he has not undervalued it ; that it is not higher, if fo high
a^ the price ftated *.
IffiaB
* If the above profit is fo great, calculating the wool at 15 s. the ftotte, bmtr
much more would it not be, if the wool had fetched its real value of ao s. the *
Hone ? And it is hoped that the Cheviot breed will foon be improved, fo aa to
produce wool worth even 30 s. the ftoue.
.Of #*r/v .- t?
I fhall only add as a further proof of the experiment of the
Cheviot breed of fheep taking place in this parifh, and of their
doing well, the farmer, whofe property they are, is refolved
to bring Upon the fame farm, this enfuing feafon, fome fcores
more ; and it is hoped others will fee it their intereft to fol-
low the example, to purchafe into {heir refpeftive farms a
number of the Cheviot breed, lefs or more, as is mod anfwer-
able. Perhaps it might not be advifable to change the whole
flock of Jthe fhort fheep at once ; but by degrees, in this way,
there can be nd riik. Even bringing in rams of the Cheviot
Dreed, and eroding them with the ewes of the ihort fheep,
Would greatly improve the wool of thfe parifh.
Vtti-.*JL M NUM.
Statifticat Jchuni
NUMBER IX.
PARISH of DALRY.
(County of A**r, Synod of Glasgow and Ayr, Presby-
tery of Irvine.)
By the Rett. air. John FthxARTdN.
Name, Extent, Situation, and Soil.
DALRY is faid to fignify " King's Valley." It gives
fl title to the Earl of Glafgow. It is about 9 Englifh
miles from N. to S., and nearly the fame diftance from E. tm-
W. The village of Dairy, where the parifli church {lands,
is fituated on the weft fide of the parifli, and is about a quar-
ter of a mile diftant from the parifli of Kilwinning; in that di-
rection, the 2 pariihes being divided by a fmall, water. Per-
haps fome regard to waters was paid in the firfl divifion of
parifhes, and when bridges were not fo common as now thejr
are. From this fituation of the village and parifli church,
many of the inhabitants of the parifli are obliged to travel
to kirk and market from confiderable diftances. The village
of Dairy is much admired by ftrangers for its fituatitn. It
ia
is fituated on a rifing ground, with a commanding profpefl W
the S. and an extenfive view to the N. E. It is almoft
{unrounded by waters* and thefe run in their different di*
regions, fo near the village, that when extraordinary rains
fall, and waters fweU> the village, when viewed at a distance,
puts o* the appearance of an ifland ; but from its elevated
fituation, is never, at any time in danger, even irom the.
greateil floods** The foil varies much, according to the
different fituations of (be grounds* All the fiat grounds lying
along the water of Garnock, are in general a deep loamy foil/
with a dry bottom, and from their being often overflowed-
with water, they are evidently enriched by the dime and
mud left upon them ; and the farmer has often experienced*
good crops frqm fbh very pircumftance alone. Trench plough-'
iag, or hand trenching of fuch ground, would affnredly turft.
qut to advantage, as the foil below feems equally good, and-
with a fmaU help of dung or lime, would foon become better
than the upper foil, that has been long cultivated. But a*
Ma. trial.
* JPisfcr/.— Tfcere are £lv*ters that hm. near the. village, Caaff, Rye, and
(fcrnock. All thefe take their life from the liighmoor lands, at feveral miles dift-
ance from the village, consequently they are foon. filled, run with great rapidity,
and are foon emptied again. The % firft, empty themfelves into Garnock, near the
village. And Garnpck empties itfelt into the fea at the bar of Irvine. From *
t^e rapiditj p/ thefe different waters, and when much fwelled, great mifchief
is often don* to the flat grounds near the village, through which they run ; fa .
that many fields of rich grain have been, in harveft, either laid flat on the
ground, covered with wreck, or entirely fwept away when cut down. In har-
■veft 1791, more than to acres were thus deftroyed and loft. Hereby, the value
of: fuch lands; however rich* is greatly ldTened, as fanners vannotraH their '
crops their own, till they are fecured in their bams. There are plenty of trouts
in the above waters, generally of a fmaU flze, and vary in colour, according to -
the waters they are caught in. Some fea-trouts and falmon are caught in Gar- '
apek, but not in fuch quantities, as to bring much profit to the proprietor of
tip water, though the price of late years has. advanced ftdm i$d. to 3d. the
£nglifli lib.
X *
9* Stati/iical Account
trial of this has not been made. Bat the greateft quantity o£
ground in the parifb, is of a very different quality, much in-
clined to clay of different colpurs, and of a tilly, wet bottom.
There is alfo a good deal of mofs-ground, not pnly in the
billy part of the pariih, but alfo in the lower parts of in
Some of which, has of late, by a fenfible procefs, been brought
from its natural ftate, to bear very good crops, both of oats
and grafs, and this, by digging it with a f^ade in winter, and
expofing it to the firoft, ridging it up, and allowing pro-
per drains and furrows, throwing feme quick Hjne upon
it* and harrowing it in with the feed : The digging repeated
%r fometim$s 3 years, then feeing graf*-feeds upon it, either
■*ith a view to eat or to feed, ^and fropi ifs not being former-
ly worth a 6d., or indeed any thing, the acre, by this proceft,
it has become equal in value, to moi} of the grounds that lie
around it* The eacpenfe of diggjng, ridging, and draining,
does not exceed al. the acre the firft year, and x 1. 6s. the two
following. The proprietors of fttch grounds, are fo fully
fenfible of the advantages of fuch a procefs, that in a few
years it is expe&ed, that a great part of them will be made
fit to bear very good crops both of oats and graft.
Divifien and Rents. — Within thefe 49 years p^ft, the great-
eft part, if not almoft the whole of the pariih, has been en-
dofed. When enclofing firft began, i% was cfle&ed with feme
difficulty, as the adjoining heritors or tenants, were not only
unwilling to bear half of the cxpenfe, but could not think o£
b^ing deprived of a liberty they had long been accuftomed to
take, of paftnring their cattle upon their neighbour's ground,
which was often of inore advantage to their cattle, than feed-
ing upon their own. But when they got the better of thefe
}ittle felfifb views, which they foon did, a fpirit of ^d^fatg
took place, as they evidently perceived, that endo&n'g, not;
onl y
pnly prefinrved every m*n's pfdperty entire, but was ufefut
to the ground itfelf; by keeping it from being potched in win-
ter and fpring ; the enclofures keeping the ground warmer,
and aferding Ihelter to their cattle, both in the heat of fum-
saer, and from the cold in Winter. Senfible of thefe, and
other advantages, enclofing went rapidly on, either at the ex-
penfe pi the proprietor, or of his tenants. And fo eager
have tenants been, for a long while paft, about it, that they
have not only their grounds in general enclofed, but properly
fubdivided, and fcruple not to pay the intereft of the money,
the proprietor of the lagds lays out in fuch enclefings, even
to 5, and fometimes to Jlptr cent., according to the different
fences made. In the low part of the par ifh, the enclofiires
are moftly ditches pf different widenefs, and rows of thorns
fometimes mixed with feme aft 6t beeches, which, when they
thrive* give good (helter to the ground. The moor farms of
the parifb, are all eaclpfed with ftone fences of different heights.
The farms, in general, are not large in the low part of the
pariflu They feldom exceed <5ol. ih rent, and many let at 20I.
10 1., and feme even lower. The moor farms being more e*-
tenfive, let from iCoh to 200 1., and even more. The grounds
in the low part of the pariCh, and that lie along the waters,
ate never rented beloifr 1 1.» and fopie fuch, are alfo rented at
%h 10 s. the acre, and fometimes above that. The grounds
adjoihifcg to thefe, and of a different quality, are, in general,
rented from 12s. to 153. the acre* The ftioor farms where
there id tolerable good grafs, and no heath, about 7 s. 6d. the
acre. The heath pafture is not generally let by the acre, but
by die lump. The Valued rent of the parilh is 6538 1. 14 s.
Scots ; the real rent about 6350 1. Sterling. The number of
heritors may be about $0. Only one confiderable landholder'
refides, and who poffefles, I fuppofe, not much lefsthan one-
third
$4 Statifikat Atcfant
third of the pariih. There are alfo fame others who p©fle%
pretty good eftates; o/ whom, fome refide.
Agricylturt, &c.— TTi$ method of farming is a good deal
improved within thefe 20 year* Before that period, farmers
thought they could not plough enough, even though, they
had but too frequently, very poor returns for their work and
ejcpenfe* Put they have feen their miftake. And every in-
telligent farmer now among u*, feldom thinks of opening his
ground, till it has refted 4, and fometimes 6 years, and even.
then, to enrich it with dung or lime. Tenants, in general,
are bound, and they look on it as no hardfhip, to have no.
more than a third of their ground in tillage* Their outfield
l&nd, which, in general, is w$ll limed (to the extent of 16a
bolls an acre, and fometimes more, eaoh boll containing 5
Winchefter bume|s) commonly produces a crops of oats, with
a crop of rye~grafs fucceeding, and is afterward turned to.
pafture. The infield land or crofting, is that on which they
lay moft of the dung they make from their own cattle (for.
dung is not to be bought) and raife 3 crops from it, bear,
qats, and beans, and then return to dunging again* As bear,
is a very uncertain crop, both by reafon of the bulk of th*
land being inclined to clay, and a wet bottom, and alfo t<*
the great quantity of rain that generally falls, about the end
of fummer, and the beginning of harveft, this being, the cafe*
many farmers have adopted another method, and, I believe,,
much to their advantage, viz. of laying their dung upon their
outfield or pooreft ground, allowing 2 acres about the fame
quantity of dung, they would have given to 1 acre of bear, "
and taking a crops of oats, and fometimes x of rye-grafs hay ^
and in this way, their future grazing crops on fuch land, are
much improved, and the whole farm in procefs of time, is
brought into a date of improvement. And, as many are fall-
ing
■ Of Dairy. \ If
&£ iii with tliis method, there is nowf very little hear raifed
for the market, but only a fmall quantity for family ufe. In-
deed, oats is the crop mod to be depended on by the farmer j
as being a more hardy grain than bear, a more certain crop*
tnd always Commanding a ready market, Peafe are feldom
fown. Though luxuriant crops of them can be raifed, yet the
tains that generally fell about the autumnal equinox, lays
them flat with the ground, to the lofs of both grain and fod-
der. Beans are fown by many farmers, only in fmall quan-
tities* From the grounds along the water, large crops are
got. Wheat is not fown by the. common farmers, though
fome gentlemen in the pariih fow it in fmall quantities for fa-.
mily ufe, and have returns from 30 to 40 Winohefter bufliels
the acre. It is fown after a fallow or potatoe crop, and the
feed generally ploughed down with a fliallow furrow, and
lightly harrowed. This method is preferred, as hereby the
feed being deeper buried, winter or fpring frofts, are not fo-
ready to throw out the plants ; and it is alfo thought, that if
the crop is luxuriant, by having a deep hold of the ground^
it is not fo apt to lodge. Clover-feeds are but feldom fown*.
A few who fow them,, after proper preparation, have found
great profit from them, both in enriching their hay crops,
and adding greatly to the value of pafture-grafs. It can"
icarcely be told, to what extent, an acre of good red clover
will go, in feeding cows and horfes in the houfe, when 1 or
3 crops are taken from it. There is furely no fuch cheap
way of. feeding horfes in fijmmer, and having plenty of milk
from cows, as by allowing them red clover in abundance, not:
to mention the dung that is hereby faved. But, till cleaning-
the ground from weeds by fallowing, be more frequent than
it is, little advantage will be gained by -Cowing of clover-
feeds. Fallowing is not pradifed in this pariih by common
farmers, but by a few gentlemen it is going on, and whether
it
$& Statlfiicat Actount
it will influence othe^ to follow their example, time wilt
fliow. If they were to adopt it, certainly their grounds would
be much better prepared for fucceeding crops, flax is fown
chiefly for family ufe, and but feldom for market. Turnip*
farming was only introduced into the parifh laft year* Tta
gentleman who introduced it, has fucceeded, himf«lf, in hav-
ing a, large crop, which probably will induce others to follow
his example. Potatoes is a crop univcrfally raifed by ever/
farmer, but feldom to any further extent, than barely for the
fcanty ufe of his own family. But I have long thought, that
every farmer might profitably confume, the double or triple
of the potatoes* he commonly raifes. If he were to cultivate
but one acre yearly, what a large provifion does he lay in for
the fupport of man and beaft ? One acre, if properly culti-
vated, will, on an average, yield 40 bolls, at 6 Winchefter
bufliels the boll, each bufhel heaped. And even more bolls
will be got, if the ground is good on which they are planted,
and proper dunging and cultivation given. I have known ft
large family, not under 15, plentifully fupplied for 6 months
in the year, with a large quantity given every day to % or
3 horfes inftead of corn in the winter months, and alfo t6
Cows and poultry > and after all, felling 5 1. worth of them
that remained, and all from the produce of 1 acre. No fuch
valuable crop then can be raifed, and when freely given, will
fatten cows, horfes, hogs, and poultry, to any degree you d£~
fire. An acre of potatoes -of 46 bolls, at the low price of
is. the buihel, is 16I. It were to be wiflied, therefore, that
farmers were more attentive to their intereft, and plant more
potatoes than they commonly do*. The implements of hus-
bandry
* The common method of planting this rort, is ploughing and harrowing the
ground once, and do'*g the reft of the work with the Tpade ; but this method
11 both flow and expensive. A better method is adopted bj others, afttr giving
Of Dairy. . 97
Landry for carrying on the common method of farming, are
but few: The old bcotcb plough, drawn with 4 horfes; a
brake harrow drawn by % ; and common harrows for each
horfe. A few have rollers for breaking of clods and fmooth-
ing the ground* Some gentlemen in the pariih who pradife
fallowing and turnip-farming, have Englifh, and Eafl Coun-
try ploughs of a light conftru&ion, drawn by 2 horfes, and
X man holds and drives the plough. But till the ground un-
dergo a different cultivation from what it has yet done, and
be cleared of Hones* with which it abounds, the old Scotch
plough muft be better adapted to the prefent mode of culti-
vation, than the Englifh plough can be. As the grain that is
raifed in the pariih is# in general, confumed in it, and few
farmers have much to want after maintaining their own
families, this cannot be called a corn country, when fo
little of their grain is brought to market* The pariih, in
general, is better adapted for grafs than for corn. What 4
pity then is it, that better methods were not fallen on to im-
prove the grafs ? This will not be done, till the ground be
properly prepared by fallowing, cleanfed well from its old
Vol. XII. N roots,
the ground, at teaft, 3 different ptougfemgs and harrowings, or till properly pul-
verized, furrows are made with a horfes at die diftance of 3 feet, dung is pot
into the furrows, the potatoes are laid, then the furrow is fiHed op with tfct)
plough, by going down one fide and coming up the other, and thereby giving fuch
a depth of covering as you choofe. An acre of potatoes can be covered in this
way, with a fingle horfe and a fmaH plough, in 6 or 7 hours. By the cultiva-
tion the ground receives before planting, and a or 3 more ploughing* after thtf
plants appear, hereby it receives all the benefit that can refult from a fallow,
with a rich crop to the bargain, and the ground in order for bearing fome cleaa
and weighty crops. I know a field of about 10 acres, that after this cultivation,
has been cropped for above 20 years, and the crops, in general, rich and luxu-
riant. The dung of the farm is moftly employed on the potatoe crop, and the
rotation of crops that follow, are, I. wheat, 2. beans, 3. barley, and if a little
dung can be fpared, the better ; 4. oats, and then return to potatoes again. ^
proper rotation of crops, is one way to fecure fucceis to the farmer*
9$ Statijlical Account
roots, and proper grafs-feeds thrown into it. It is by grafs
that the farmer at prefent pays his rent ; all pains, therefore,
fliould be taken to improve it. For foroe years paft, the pro-
fits of the 'dairy have been great ; and it may be faid with
certainty (if wc except the moor farms) that the rents of the
parifh are, in general, paid from the butter and cheefe made
in it. The grazing farms in the pariih, are employed either
Jn fattening Highland cows, to the extent of about 300, of
rearing up young ones, for the tenant himfelf, or for others,
and at the prices, from 12s. to 15s. for 1 year old, 'and from
aos. to 24 s. for 2 and 3 year olds, and that from the ift of
May to the 1 ft of November. The fheep or heath farms in
the parifh are but few ; the ftock of the whole amounting
to about 1200. The fheep are of a fmall fize, and the wool
not of a fine quality ; when fattened, are generally fold to
the Pauley or Glafgow markets. Few fheep are kept in the
low grounds fince enclofing took place *.
•' ' Cows
* Prices.— The average price of oats is as. bear as. 6d. barley 3s. beans and
peafc 3s. 9 d. wheat 5s. the Wincbcfter bulhel. Bee£ at flaoghter time, is ^\d.x
^nd at other feafons jd. and 6d. the |ib. ; veal from $d. to 6c|.; mutton from
5d. to 6d.; pork from 5d. to 6d. ; lamb from 5d. to 6d. the lib., the lib. being
24 ounces. The price of a fat goofe is 2 s. <Sd. ; of a turkey from 3$. to 5 s. ; of
% hen from i^d. to i6d. ; of a duck is. ; of a chicken 4d. ; and eggs from 4d.
to 6d. a-dozen. Butter is fold from od. to xod. ; fkimmtd milk cheefe from 3d. to
4d. ; fweet milk from 5d. to 6d. the lib., according to its age, the lib. being
24 ounces. "pie wjipie 91 the above articles of provLfions, except grain,, has ad-
vanced in price, at leaft one-third, within thefe 10 years. The average wages of
ferm fervants, when they eat in the houfe, arefrcm lol. to 111. a-year; women
ferrantsfrom 4L to 5I. ; men labourers from i4d. to -od. a-day, without provi-
sions, and according as their work is. ; women for hay working xod. and reap-
ing 15 d. a-day, without; provifions; the day's wages of a wright 20 d. ; of a
mafon as.; and of a tailor iod. a-day, with his meat. All thefe have near
doubled their wages within thefe *o years.
Seed-time and Harveji. — The time of (owing wheat on a fallow, is from the
■aiddle of September to the lit of O&ober, ami, on potatoc ground, from the
middle
Of Dairy; 99
C 0ws. end Jforfes.— The cows and horfes kept by the farm-
trsj are in proportion to the extent of their farms. To do
them juftice, they do not overftock their farms, as in former
times. They find it their intereft, to keep no more cattle
than they can fully maintain, otherwife, their horfes would
not rife to the prices they are at, nor their cows give fo much
milk as they do. When once a farmer has flocked himfelf
with cows, he feldoxn thinks of going to market again for
more, but raifes up young ones to fupply the room of thofe
that are old, and keep9 up his ftock by his own rearing. The
breed of cows is greatly improved from what they were. At
prefent, the farmer can fell his cows from 61. to 10 1. Ster-
ling, and fome even at higher prices* Having fo much de-
pending on a good kind, they fpare no pains Or coft to come
at them. The young cows, now rearing in the parifh, may
be about 500,- and milch cows about 11 00. From each of
which, on an average, may be got 1 2 Hones of fweet milk
N 2 cheefc,
middle of O&ober to the firft week of November. I have known it fown later,
and feen a good crop! *fhe tinle of fowing oats, beans, peafe, and flax, from
the I ft of March to the middle of April ; of bear or barley, and planting pota-
toes, from the middle of April to the middle of May, arid turnips, from the firft
week ff June, to the middle of it : later does not anfwer welt in this country;
The harveft generally begins about the firft of September, and the crops are
feidom al! got in before the middle of dclober ; and in cold and wet feafons, I
"have knov;n crops in the field during the whole month of November. The farm-
ers, in general, are healthy, fober* iodtfftrious, and thriving ; and though they
do not indulge themselves in high living, yet they live ptaitttilly on whole fome
fare ; and when they appear in public, the dreffes both of men, women, and
children, mow that they have plenty at home.-*-Tbirhige has long anc{ juftly
been complained of, as a difcouragenfent to improvement in agriculture. About
15 years ago, a part of the parifh was freed from that fcrvitude by purchafing
its thirlage ; but a confiderable part (till remains fubjedfc to that difcountgmg
burden. — Draining is much wanted in many parts of the parifh, and if judickrak
ly defigned, and properly executed, would bt a permanent and prafitablt my
jfoYcment. < .
loo Statijlical Account
cheefe, amounting in whole to 1 3,399 ftones, the ftone being
16 lib., and the pound 24 ounces. The cheefe, in general, is
of as good a quality as any made in the weft country, and is
tnoftly fold in the Greenock, Paifjey, and Glafgow markets*
The horfes raifed in the parifli are but few. Thofe kept by
the farmers, are generally young, and of a large fize. The
common method of fupplying themfelves is, they buy them
when 2 or 3 years old, from the yearly market at Lanark,
where large quantities are fold of all fizes. They keep them
for 1 or 2 years, and with the eafy work of ploughing their
farms, with little more work they put them to, this with
good feeding, raifes them to a large fize, and then they fell
them, often at double the prices they bought them at ; and in
this way many farmers have confiderably increafed their
ftock. Many fuch horfes have of late been fold from jol.
to 40 1. The amount of horfes in the pariih may be about
Roads and Bridges. — The great roads in the parifli are, by
a proper attention of the truftees, in good repair, and all
made by the ftatute-labour. The by-roads will probably alio
foon be attended to. And, as to bridges, few parifhes can
boaft of having fo many ; no fewer than 9, great and fmall,
are to be found within half a mile of the village, and thofe
moftly built at the.expenfe of the pariih, which fliows a pro-
per attention to their own fafety, as well as that of travellers (
and much to their credit furely it is, as the village cannot be
approached without crofling fome water or burn, and on each
of which a bridge is to be found.
1
Stipend, School, Poor, &c. — There are 3 clergymen in th6
village of Dairy, the minifter of the Efhblifhed Church,
vo£the Antlburgher, and the Burgher Seceders, both of whom
were
Of Dairy. lot
were eftablifhed lately in the parifh. There are no Eplf copals;
bo Reman Catholics. The patron is Mr. Blair of Blair. The
manfe and offices were built in 1766 ; the church in 1771 ;
and an excellent fchool-houfe fit to accommodate 100 children,
with «n houfe to the fchoolmafter, in 1790. All which build-
ings are in good order and repair. The ftipend, one^ear
with another, is about 97 1., including 50I. Scots for com-
munion elements, and exclufive of manfe, and a glebe of about
7 Scots acres arable. The fchoolmafter's falary is 81 1. 10 9.
Scots, he has a fchool-houfe, dwelling- houfe, and garden. The
ground occupied for the fame, was a prefent of 12 falls, made
by David late Earl of Glafgow, to the heritors, about the
> year 1725. The fchoolmafter has, at an average, about 60
fdholars through the year. He teaches Latin, French, Engliih,
and Arithmetic ; is feffion-clerk ; has the charge of the poor's
money ; has perquifites from marriages and baptifms. The
amount of his living, on the whole, may be about, 30 1., a
fum furdy too inconfiderable to encourage a man of educa-
tion and ability, to undertake fuch a laborious and uleful
charge. And it is to be hoped, that heritors, not only in this,
but in other parifhes, will foon be inclined to hold out better
encouragement to fuch an ufefulfet of men. There is alfo a
private fchool in the village, which has, at an average, about
30 attending it ; befides fome private fchools in the country
part of the pariih. — The number of poor who are maintain-
ed weekly from the poor's funds, may, at an average, be about
*2, befides others who are occasionally fupplied. They are
fupported by the collections on Sunday, mortcloth money,
and the intereft of a fmall ftock they have on hand. The
yearly fum expended may be about 54 1. There has not been,
for many years paft, one in the parifh that has gone about
begging, yet plenty of fuch, from other parifhes, are conti-
nually infefting us. Though) what our own poor get from
the
102 Statlftlcal Account '
the parifli^funds, may not always be fufficient fully to mollis
tain them, yet, by their own little induftry, with what they
get, they .are enabled to live with fome. degree of comfort.
And, in cafes of old age and ficknefs, more ample proyifions
are made for them. From is. to 2 s. a-week is generally al-
lowRi. And all this is conducted by the acjvice of the feffion,
who make it their bufinefs to inquire into every one's parti-
cular neceffities ; and this they do with the greateft attention.
Orphans and idiots are generally boarded at the yearly ex-
penfe of 4I., and fometimes a little mpre« The parifii has
not been affeffed for the maintenance of the poor, fo far back
as can be remembered.
Baptiftns in the year.
Marriages in ditto, ^ at an average, may be about
Burials in ditto,
Coals y Lime, &c. — There are 3 coal pits generally going, with*
in lefs than a mile of the village. Coals are not fold by the
weight, but by a meafure called a hutch, 4 of which fills a cart*
fufficient for an ordinary horfe to draw, and the cart is bought
at the pit for 2 s. The feams of coal are different in thick*
nefs at the different pits, from 27 inches, to 5 feet 4 inches*
The pits are not deep, from 3 to 22 fathoms. Coals abound
fo much in fome parts of the parifii, that farmers, in digging
their ditches, often difcover a thin feam, which they dig out
for the ufc of their families, and fometimes alio in fuch quaiw
tities, as are einployed in burning limeftones for their farms
Limeflones alfo abound in many parts of the parifii, in feams
of confide r able thicknefs. Thefe are fold at different prices,
according to the trouble that attends the. working them, and
in proportion to the quantity of lime they produce. The low-
eft price is 3 d., and the higheft 7 d. for a cart-load, or as ma-
ny
Of Dairy. 103
ny as one horfe can "draw. A chalder of lime, or 80 Win-
chefler bulhels, is generally got from 4 fuch carts. Farmers
generally burn their own lime for the ufe of the farm. Lime,
when bought from thofe who prepare it for Tale, is got for
6s. 8 d. for the farm, and, when prepared for building, at 8 s.'
the chalder. Owing to the plenty and cheapnefs of lime, a free
ufe is made of it by farmers, this being the only manuft that
can be come at, as no dung can be bought, and no marl as
yet difcovered, fo as to become of general ufe. Peat alfo a-
bounds in many parts of the parifli, fo that many farmers pro-
vide themfelves with fuch large quantities, as to depend almoft
wholly upon it for fuel. Peats, when fold, are at 14 d. or
13 d. the cart; and the cart is fo conftrufted, as to hold a large
quantity, no meafure being in ufe for fuch an article. They
who live at a di fiance from the mofs, provide only a fmall
quantity. Peats are generally employed in heating of milk
for cheefe-making, and in drying all kinds Of grain for the
mill. There is plenty of iron-ftone in feveral parts of the pa-
rifli, but none of it as yet wrought.
Manufa&ures* — Thefe are moftly confined to the village.
Some years ago, when the filk manufacture flourished, there
were above 100 filk weavers in the village, befides a few in
the country part of the parilh ; and thefe were generally em-
ployed by the filk manufacturers in Paifley or Glafgow. But
now the number of fuch weavers is greatly reduced, and cot-
ton weaving has become the chief trade of the place. I hare
been at fome pains' to find out the numbers of men, women,
And children now employed in the different branches of filk
and cotton workmg ; and they are as follows ;
Silk weavers, - 36
Women to prepare the filk yarn for the loom, - 8
Cotton
f 04 Stati/lical Account
Cotton weavers, - • »- jo*
Women and children to prepare the yarn for the loon, J2t
Some more than a year ago, a few belonging to the parifl^
began the fpinning of cotton on mule jennies, which they arp
fiill doing, having 15 conftaotly going, and a (mall carding
mill which goes by water, for preparation. And as they
mean to extend their work to the number of 30 jennies, they
are now building a carding mill on a larger fcale, to go by
water, to anfwer the purpofe of preparation for the above
number. The cotton yarn is not manuCa&ured in the place,
but is font to the Paifley or Glafgow markets. Thofe at pre*
lent employed in the above work, including men, women, and
children, may be about 50 ; and when the work is doubled,
thofe employed will be in proportion. There is in the vil-
lage, and country part of the parifh, a fufficient number of
common weavers, (hoemakers, fmiths, wrights, tailors, and
thofe who fell grocery goods, and all kinds of men and women's
apparel, of the bed and fineft kind. And as to ale and whif-
ky-houfes, of them there are more than is neceflary, to the
great prejudice of the temporal intereft and morals of too
snanj , and efpecially of thofe who can, with eafe, earn from
as. to 3 s. a»day ; the profperity of fuch perfons often de-
ftroys them. The village is a moil convenient fituation for
manufactures, on account of its healthy fituation, eafy rents,
and cheap fuel, when compared with many places in the
neighbourhood. And for carrying on a bleaching buiinefs, I
fuppofe a more convenient fituation cannot be found, having
fo many flreams of water all around ; but nothing of (his kind
has as yet been tried.
Population*— According to Dr. Wcbfler's report, the num-
ber
Of Dal
feet of fouls then Was 1498. The prefeot ftate of population^
from a lift that was lately taken* is as follows :
Examinable perfons in the country part of the parifh, 904
Not examinable (;. e. all below 6 or 7 years old} in do. 282
Examinable in the village, ... 607
. Not examinable in do. •» — - 207
2COO
The dbove lift includes Seceders.
In the country part of the parifh, the population has de-
creased during the laft 30 years, owing to the enlarging of
grazing farms, by which many tenants aud cottagers were dif-
lodged. But in the above period, the village ha* increafed in
population almoft doubles And in the fame period, the pa-
rifli has increafed in population, at leaft 300. And as the
Village has thus increafed in population, fo houfes have been
built in proportion. So that now, a number of new Hated and
well jinilhed houfes may be fcen, fuited to the manufactures*
that are going on.
Mineral Springy &c. — Some years ago,* by boring frr fearch of
coal, wad raifed a very ftrong fulpriureoiis fpring, at 9 fa-
thoms depth, that has been ufed with fuccefs in fcorbutic,
eruptive, and ulcerous difordtrs, and in ftomachic complaints*.
Cave. — In the farm of Atfchfnikcith, and on the fide of a
limeftone crag, is a remarkable cave, fcooped by the hand of
Vol. XIL O Mature.
♦ Antiquities —There is adjoining tht village, 4n artificial moUnt called
6otuthUL It is of a corneal figure, of considerable height and thickiiefc, and
everj* way- regular in its Ihape. It has been bored with iron rods' to a confider-
able depthy and found to btf wholly made uu of e'arth. The deiign of thefe'
io6 Statiftical Account
nature. It is 44 feet above the bed of a rivulet, is covered
with 30 feet of rock and earth, and crowned with wood. The
entrance is adorned with a raft prominent rock 27 feet broad,
and 30 long, Hoping a little upward. The inward ftrufture
is
mounts, which arc not uncommon, may be guefled at by antiquaries. They
are generally fuppofed to be places where the ancient barons held their courts of
law, gave oiders to, and harangued their retainers, and where they frequently
Covered the remains of a departed ChriAun, There is to be found the remains
of a ruin, called a Chapel, fuppofed to be a Romifh one. Lately a cairn of
ftones was removed from the top of a hill, called Lawhill, and there was found
a ftone coffin containing human bones. About 1 6 years ago, on removing a-
large heap of earth and (lanes, there was found a (tone coffin, with 3 Or 4 urns,
containing burnt bones. The urns are faid to hate had letters or figures on
them, but were broken by the workmen in hopes of treafure. Campbill, near
the borders of the parifli of Largs, is faid to be the place, where the Scots army,
under Alexander Hi. encamped, previous to the battle of Largs 1*63. Between
that and Largs is Rontdon-burn, fuppofed to derive its name from a detachment
of King Haco of Denmark's army, being there attacked and put to the rout,
And that don, is a contraction of Dane. What renders this more probable, on
the banks of the tloutdon burn, is a large cairn, upon removing part* of which,
lately was difcovered a done coffin. 'Hie knights Templars had lands m this
parifh, and arc called Temple lands at this day.— Anciently, there were *
churches in the parifli ; the one on the eaft, the other on the weft of the village,
and little more than a quarter of a mile diftant from the prefent church. With-
in thefe laft 40 years paft, the remains of the eaft church have been feen by
fome now living. The weft church, though no remains of the building can be
traced,' yet from a piece of ground being there, ftill called the old glebe, it Is
probable the church may have flood near to it. This old glebe, was exchanged
about 3o years ago, for the prefent one. At what period, the % churches were
united, and the church 6rft built where the prefent one now ftands, is uncer-
tain, but thought to have been between the years 1600 and 1608. No aug-
mentation of ftipend of Dairy fince 1S50; when, at the inftance of Mr. Ro-
bert Bell, then minifter, purfuer, the ftipend was then fixed at what it now is.
The decree bears to have proceeded on an agreement between Blair of Blair,
tackfman of the teinds of the pa nth, by tack granted to him by John, Arch-
bifhop of St. Andrew's, Comrocndator of Kilwinning, dated the laft d*y of May
r6i5, and t coromiffions from the prdbytery of Irvine, in ffame and behalf of
Mr. Bell the -purfuer. — The moffes in the lew part of the parifli, do evidently
cover
Of Dairy. X07
if like Gothic arched work, fupported with maffy columns aiuj
fcutrefles. Its width varies in different places from 5 to 1Q
feet ; its height from 5 to 12 feet ; and its length, fo far as
is acceffible, is about 183 feet. About the middle of it is a
O a * fpacious
cater the remains of ancient forefts. Trees of different fpecies and dimenfions
•are often found, fome of them very large, particularly oak and elm, which are
the prevailing kinds, and ufually broken off near the roots, and lie along in a
direction from S. W. to N. £. The roots all ftand in a perpendicular polture,
and as clofe as the roots of trees in a foreft. All the limefione quarries abound
with marine petrifactions of numerous varieties, and incumbent on fome fuch
quarries, is a bed of ftone marl from 3 to 5 feet depth. It has been analysed
mnd found to Contain from 30 to 50 parts of calcareous earth, and falls foon to
powder when eipofed to fun and weather. No proper trial of it as a manure
has been made,
MifctUantovs Obfervations —-It is thought by many, that the Clyde and let
at Irvine or Saltcoats might be connected with a Canal, and that from the level
nature of the intervening ftrath, and plentiful fupply of water to be got front
the lochs of Lochwinnoch and Kilbimy ; and as coal much abounds in many
parts of that ftrath, it might be conveyed to thole towns near to which the
Canal might go, perhaps on much eafier terms, than otherwife they can be pro-
vided, with many other articles that would be conveyed through fuch a long
and fertile part of the country.— From the (mall number of lheep in the pariJh,
little attention has yet been paid to the improvement of the breed, or wool. In
the (heep farms no attention has been paid. In the low part of the parifl),
many farmers keep from 2 to half a-dozen of £heep, that feed with their milch
cows, thefe are generally of a mixed breed between Scotch and Engliih, of a
larger fixe (from 12 to 14 lib. a quarter) and the wool of a much finer quality
than what is got from the fmall moor (heep, and will bring one-third more when
fold. I have known xo or 12 Englilh pounds, and fometimes more, got from,
them. The number of fuch in the parifh, may be about 100.— Lately died in
the parifh, a couple who had been married 52 years, both were above 80 years
old, 16 hours only intervened between their deaths, and both were buried in
one grave. Died in the parifh, in 1789, a woman about 60 years of age. She
had been thrice married* By her firft huiband (he became pregnant, and her.
pains came feverely upon her, about the ordinary time ; but (he was not de-
livered. She continued ever after to have the appearance of pregnancy. Her
firft huiband dying, flic was again married to a farmer, who alio died in a few
years,
1 6$ Statifiical Account
fpacious opening, 35 feet long, 12 feet wide, and 12 high!
The whole internal furface is varioufl/ indented. Its floor is*
nearly dry j its fides and corners run ofF into many crevices j
and its roof is emblazoned by calcareous incruflatrons.
NUM.
years. She was laftty married jo another farmer, about the year 1772. He
died in 1788, and (he fuivived him about g months. She was of a full habit of
body, and enjoyed good health, till about 5 months before her death, when me
begun to fall off much, was confined to her bed, and her legs f welled. Her
pregnant appearance ftill remained, ^n4 (he told fome of her neighbours, that
about $3 years ago, (he expected to be delivered, and felt life and motion in
fhe child. This excited the defire of the furgeons to have her body opened af-
ter her death. Leave was granted by her friend', to a ikilful furgeon in fieith .
to open her. But he not coming at the appointed time, two perfons of fmall
fltill and experience, performed the operation in a cparfc manner, and could not
give a proper account of the filiation in which they found the foetus. They,
however, did find a child come to maturity, and in a perfect ftate of prcferva-
tion. It was immediately laid on the tabic, before more than a dozen of people
that were prefent. The operators were allowed to carry it away ; and J faw it
afterward myfclf. The incruftation round it was tough, and of a horny ap-
pearance when I few it, and in laying the incruftation open, it appeared one of
the child's arms had been harmed. I heard it was afterward in the pofleffion
.of the late Dr. William Hamilton, and Mr. Monteath furgeon, Glafgow, for,
.fome time, who took a drawing of it, as the perfons who extracted it, would
not part with it, but at an extravagant price. I have alfo heard, that fome of
the medical gentlemen at Edinburgh, are in pofleffion of it at this very time.
Of Barony of Glqfgow. iojj
NUMBER X.
PARISH of BARONY or GLASGOW.
(County of Lanark, Synod of Glasgow and Ayr, Pre*.
bttert of glasgow.
By the Rev. Mr. John Burns.
Extent, Soil, Surface, SJc.
*T*HE city of Glafgow, and the barony parifli, till the year
-*- *J95t made but one parifli. But population having
fo much increafed, that it was inconvenient for the inhabi-
tants .of the town and country to meet in one place, they were
at that time disjoined ; and the landward part of the parifli,
as diftinguifhed from the town, was called the barony. This
parifh is both large and populous, extending from a to 5 or 6
miles around the city, of Glafgow, except on the faith fide.
The foil is various. In fome places it is a rich clay, in others
a light (and : towards the N. and N. E., it is a cold clay, or
fpongy and mooriih, but confiderably improved by the atten-
tion paid to draining, liming, and a better mode of cultivation
fidopted by the formers ; ftill, however, there is much room
for
1 1 o Statijtical Account
for improvements, and thefe are carrying on with considerable
fpirit in different parts. Though there are no high hills in
the parifli, there are many beautiful fwejls, which greatly di-
verfify the appearance, and add' much to the beauty of the
country. On the banks of Clyde, at Weft thorn, and in many
other places, the landfcape is rich, various, and delightful.
The river winding through richly cultivated fields, and fre-
quently loft among the trees, which grow upon its banks ;
interfperfed with many gentlemen's houfes, and the large and
populous city of Glafgow% with its numerous fpires and ve*
nerable cathedral, prefent to the eye various ftriking views,
and fill the mind with the pleafing ideas of induftry, wealth,
fecurity, and happinefs.
'Climate and Itiftafes. — The climate is temperate, the air
healthy, though rather moift, when compared with the eaftern
parts of Scotland, and many of the Inhabitants live to an ad-
vanced age, though at prefent there are none above 90 years
old. The difcafes moil prevalent are confumptions and fe-
vers ; which laft, ior want of proper attention to cleanKnefs,
and a free circulation of frefh air, prove fo infcdious, as gew
serally to go through the whole family, and relapfes are very
frequent. The common people, however, are now beginning
to be more attentive than formerly to the cleanlinefs and ven*
tilation of their houfes. ' Indeed, from the increafe of trade,
find of wealth amoog them, their houfes, and the whole ftyle
of their living is much improved .within thefe few years.
This feafon the fm all-pox has been very frequent among the
children, and vaft numbers have died. Inoculation is yet far
from being generally pra&iicd, though the unreafonaUe pre-
judices entertained againft it are gradually wearing off. In
the villages, the great bulk of the inhabitants being employed
in manuXadures, many of them are very fubjed to flatulency),
and
Of Barony of Glafgow. ill
tad the difeafes incident to fedentafy people* And the wea-
vers, probably from the want of due circulation by the pref-
fttre of the feat, are very often afflicted with what they call
Jbre legs, or bad ulcers in their legs, very difficult to be heal-
ed. Lime-water has been ufed of late in many cafes 'with
great fuccefs.
Mineral Springs, and Mi*erals.~There are chalybeate fprings
fn different parts of the parifh, particularly on the fide of the
river Clyde, above Rutherglen bridge. At Anderfton there
is a fpring which contains one grain of mineral alkali or foda
in the pint of water. And at Northwoodfide, there is a ful-
phureous fpring upon the fide of the river Kelvin, which for-
merly was often ufed, it is (aid, with fucceis, in fcorbutic dif*>
orders. But for a confiderable time paft no attention has been
paid to it, and the water of the, river now runs into ir. This
parifh abounds with coal of an excellent quality, and fold at
a very reasonable price, being laid down in the city of Glaf-
gow, at the rate of 3 s. gd. the cart of 12 cwt. This cheap-
nefs of fuel is of the utmoft importance to the comfort of the
inhabitants, and the thriving of manufactures : And as the
fields of coal in the neighbourhood are imftienfe, it is to be
hoped the price will always continue fo moderate as to pre-
ferve to Glafgow the fuperiority (he at prefent enjoys above
mod places. Indeed, were the price of fuel to be raifed fo
high as to injure the manufactures, the coalrowners themfelves
would equally fufier. The. value of the coal produced from
the different mines may amount to about 30,009 1. annually.
Thofe belonging to James M'Nair, Efq. of She tt left on, pro-
duce from jcoo L to 6000 1. Sterling annually *.
ManufaBures.
* On his colliery, the firft fteam-engine for drawing off the water from the
coal-pits, was ere&cd, in the /ear 1764- Since that time near so fleam, engines
have
lis Statlftical Account
Manufa&ures. — The weaving manufacture is carried on W
a great extent in this pariGi, there being at prefent upwards of
3000 looms employed* Within thefe 19 years, however, this
branch of manufaAure has undergone an almoft total change*
Before that time, they were employed in lawns, fhirting,
check, and handkerchiefs, linen handkerchiefs for printing,.aad
blonnks, confifting of linen-warp, and cotton-weft, which were
printed for neck-handkerchiefs, gowns, and bed-furniture.
But now they are almoft wholly in the muflin line, very few
lawns or checks being manufactured in this place. Though
the muflin trade has been but lately eftablilbed, yet it has al-
ready rifen to great perfection. And were the importation
of Eaft India xnuflins in fomc meafure rcftrained, and the fine
.cotton wool brought home, it is irapoflible to fay to what ex*
tent this branch might be carried, and how much this coun*
try
have been fet up in the neighbourhood of Glafgow. There are fevcral ftrata or
feams of coal of different thickneffes, and at different diftanoes from one an-
other. Thefe all lie nearly parallel to each other, but not parallel to the fur-
face of the earth, having their dip, as it is termed by the colliers, or their de_
clioation towards the river Clyde, and rifing, as you retire from the river, neaf-
cr to the furface of the earth till they crop out. And what is very remarkable
the feams of coal on the other fide of Clyde, alfo have their dip towards its
bed ; lb that the ftrata on the different fides of the river, initead of lying in the
fame phne, are inclined to each other at a certain angle. In fdme pits, the
ihrata of coal are of the following thickneffes ; 1 ft, The upper coal from 4 tfe
4§ feet thick : ad, Ell-coal from 2 J to 3 feet : And 3d, Main coal from 4$ tp
5* feet* Thefe are the only feams that have as yet been wrought. Above the
coal there lies a thin but very rich ftratum of iron-ftone. Till within thefe
lew years that the Clyde iron-works were ere&ea' on the borders of this parifn*
the whole iron-ftone in this part of the cojxitry was di {"regarded, and fvmetimes
proved a great incumbrance. Now, it is » fource of wealth,- and gives em-
ployment to feveral hands in this parifli. Befides coal Ad iron-ftone, there are'
beds of very good free-ftone, particularly at Poffit, much ufed in .tbe city ©f
Glafgow for building and flagging the fide* of the ftreets. And on the eailjide
of the fir park adjoining to the city, there is a large whinftone ouarry, whence'
all ths fiones ufed" fdr paving the ftreet* have been brought.
2
Of Barony ofGla/gow. 1 1 3
try might be benefited by it. Bat as the manufactures of this
f>ariih are immediately connected with the city of Glafgow,
they will be more properly and fully treated of there. It is
therefore unoeceffary to fay any thing farther of them in this
place. Only it may be proper to take notice of the improve*
ments introduced by Mr. George MackintoQi, a gentleman
whole fpirited and fuccefsful exertions have been of the great*
eft benefit to the manufactures of this country, and by whom
I have been favoured with the following account: The end-
bear manufacture carried on here,' under the firm of George
Mackintosh and Co. Was begun in the year 1777, occupying
about It acres of ground, compactly built, and well walled
round with done and lime. This is a manufacture for mak-
ing a dye-ftufF, now becoming an ufeful article, and employ-
ed chiefly in the woollen and (ilk manufactures of Britain,
said is made from an excrefcence that grows upon rock* and
ftones, a fpecies of die liechen or rock-mofs, which, with cer-
tain chemical preparations, makes a dye-ftuff called cudbear.
It was known and ufed as a dye-ftuff in the Highlands of Scot-
land by the name of corked or crottel, fome hundred years ago.
But it was Meflr*. George and Cuthhert Gordon, (now Dr.
Cuthbert Gordon), who firft attempted, and had the merit of
bringing the procefs to a regular fyftem. They, in conjunc-
tion with the Meffirs. Alexanders of Edinburgh, erected a ma-
nufacture for it in Leith, in which they perfevered for feve-
4al years. But it proved in the end unfuccefsful. Gonfidcr-
able improvements have been made in the manufacture fince
its cftablifhtnent in Glafgow^ And the Company finding that
the rock-soofii in Scotland would foon be exhaufted, early fent
a perfon of Hull to explore the rocks of Sweden and Norway,
wbfcnct they, for fome time paft, import all they ufe. But
there k is alfo beginning to be fcarce. Rus$ a. appears to pro-
duce none of it. This manufacture confumes a very confi-
Vou XII. P derable
U4 Stat iji leal Account i
derable quantity of human urine ; above 2000 gallons a-day*
They have about 15 00 iron-bound cades difperfed among the
manufacturing and tradef men's houfes in Glafgow and fub-
urbs. For each* calk full they pay a certain price, which, with
the expenfe of collecting, colls them about 800 1. a-year, for
an article which formerly ran in wafte through the kennels
and drains of the ftreets. The dying of Turkey red on cot-
ton, though a very late difcovery in this kingdom, was efta-
bliihed in Glafgow earlier than in any part of Great Britain*
In the year 1785, Mr. George Mackintofli being in London,
fell in with Monfieur Papillon, a Turkey red dyer from Rou-
en, carried him with him to Glafgow, and, in conjunction
with Mr. David Dale, built an extenfive dye-boufe at Dal-
marnock in this parifli, upon the banks of the river Clyde,
where cotton is dyed a real Turkey red, equal in beauty and ,
folidity to Eaft India colours. There is another dyehonfe*
equally extenfive, lately erected for the fame purpofe, in the
neighbourhood of this one, alfo in the barony parifli, under j
the management of Mr. Papillon, who. is now connected with
another Company. At both places the Turkey red colours
are now made in great perfection. By means of thefe eftabtifli-
mects, the ingenious and induftrious manufacturers of this
place are enabled to make cotton- pulicate handkerchiefs, e- '
qual in beauty and quality to any in the known world* And
although the Meflrs. Bouilles (one of whom is fixed at Man-
*hefler)did obtain a premium from Parliament for the Tur-
key red, the bufinefs was firft eftabliflied here 5 and fpecimens
of manufactured pulicates of a fuperior colour, it is (kid, were
produced before a committee of the Houfe of Commons, (made 1
.by Mr; Mackintofli > who was the firft who manufactured any
here) while Mr. Bouill'e could only produce cuts of cotton-
yarn done by him* It is now computed that there are above
1500 looms employed in this branch of pulicate alone, in
Glafgow
Of Barony of Glajgow. 115
Glafgow and neighbourhood* This colour is fo fall, or fixed,
that when wove with brown cotton, or linen yarn, it re*
fids and (lands the whole procefs of bleaching, and acquires
more beauty and luftre by this trying operation ; and when
wrought in with bleached yarn, requires 24 hours boiling in
4oap and afhes, to reduce it to its vivid ftandard. Acids,
which deftroy mod other reds, in a moderate degree, improve
.this* Making Turkey red is a mod intricate and troublefome
procefs, requiring about 15 different operations in the com*
rnon courfe of dying.
Near to the cudbear manufacture, is juft now commenced
a bufinefs carried on by George and Charles Mackintofh, en-
tirely new in this, or, we believe, in any other country. Jit
is the making of a newly difcovered chymical preparation,
which anfwers as a real fubftitute in dying and printing, for
faccharum faturni, or fugar of lead and allura. It is hoped it
will be an ufeful undertaking, as hitherto all, or by far the
greateft part of the fugar of lead ufed in Britain has been im-
ported from Holland. Thefe ingenious and economical peo-
ple, though a duty of 3d. the pound is impofed on this ar-
ticle when imported, and though receiving their lead from
Britain, yet have hitherto been able to underfell all who have
made any attempt of the lame kind in this kingdom. Mr.
Mackintofh and his fon Charles intended this for a fugar of
lead bufinefs ; but in the courfe of their experiments in that
way, this improvement occurred to Charles Mackintofh, who
is a very able chymift ; and the work is now entirely employ-
ed for this purpofe. They fupply the printers with this pre-
paration at a lower rate than that which is ufually made from
the Dutch fugar of lead. The principal printfields in the
country have tried, are now ufing, and approve of it, as mak«
ing an equally fixed, and, at the fame time, a more beautiful
f olour than that done in the ufual manner with fugar of lead
" * * and
1 1 6 . Statijiical Account
and allum. And I nnderftand thcj can fupply the wholfe
confumpt of the country *.
Divtfion
• In the year 1784, a cotton mill was built at North Woodfide in this parim,
by Mr. William Gillefpie, which gives employment to about 400 periaaa, men,
women and children. This, with the people engaged in the bleacfcneld, and
otherwife, has made Woodfide a considerable village, while it has become the
feat of plenty and comfort, the happy co;*fcquence of induftry and manufac-
tures. Senfible of the advantages of religion and good morals, to promote tht
induftry and happineft of the people, the benevolent proprietor pap particular
attention to thefe. He has not only engaged a mailer to teach the children,
through the week, to read, but he has alfo fitted up, and fupports at his own
expenfe, a place for public worfliip on the Lord's day, where a decent congre-
gation regularly afiembles. And in the afternoon, the preacher publicly cate-
thifes and inftructs the children. The knowledge thus difufed among the chil-
dren and the inhabitants of that part of the paafli» U an honourable testimony
to the fidelity and diligence of Mr. James Steven {he. preacher ; and the good
effects, it is to be hoped, will extend, at lead among fome, much farther than
merely that regularity, fobriety, and induftry, which ferve fo much to promote
'their temporal prosperity and comfort. The yam faun at this mill, employs
about 450 weavers* exclufive of thofe who get their bread by winding, torch-
ing, our.
In 1772, the fame gentleman eftablilhed a printfield at Anderfton, which,
with the bleachfield, give employment to between 300 and 400 people. The
vJoth there printed, may employ 500 or 600 operative weavers. Befides thefe,
there are feveral other bkachnelds at Fmmefton, Calton, Springfield, and other
places, conducted upon the moft improved principles, and which give bread to
a great number of perfons. About 30 years ago, a very large brewery was
erected near Axtderfton, for brewing ale and porter, both for foreign and home
confumpt. To fo great in extent do they carry on bulnefs, that near e 9th
part of the whole excife of Scotland has been paid by them.
At Partick on the river Kelvin, there are very eatenfive wheat mills erected:
the greateft part of which belong to the incorporation of bakers in Glafgow;
The mills are well conftructed, and much machinery introduced for the abridge,
knent of labour. At the bakers wheat mills alone, at an average of the 4 laft
years from May 1786" to May 1790, 36,1 13 bolls of wheat and a-half have been
annually milled. <*
Seed-time and Barvefl.— The time of fowing wheat, is from the middle of
September to die middle of October ; oats, peafe, beans, and flax, from the
middle
Of Barony of Glajgew. i 17
Df^fiM and Rati ifLond^Tbc whole valued not of the
patiih, as dated in the eels-books for the- county, is 13,000 L
Scotch ; bat of this 4000 1. is held by the CoJlege of Glafgow,
as the teind of the archbiflioprick, for which they have ne-
ver yet paid any public burdens. The heritors are 9a in
number, of whom 59 refide in the pariih, either conftantly or
.occafionally. The farms are* in general, about 60 .acres,
/though there are fome of 160, and feme as low as ao acres.
In the neighbourhood of the villages* a great deal of the Itfud
is rented in very faaall parcels by the tradefmea, for the push,
pole of rearing potatoes, &c. The foil t>eiag very different,
rthc testa are alio different ; but from the fpirit for imprave-
jment which prevails, and the iocnsafiog demand in the city of
Glafgow for the ptoduoe of the farms, the rents are every
where riling. The greateft part of the land is eoclofed, the
face of the country much improved, and the tenants better
Able to afford a higher rent than formerly* At prefent, there
is
middle of March to the middle of April 5 potatoes and barky in May j and
turnips in June and July. The harveft generally begins about the middle or
end of Auguit, and the crop is got totally in about the middle of October, ex-
cept in cold and wet ftafons. The price of grain and provifions m this purifh,
is regulate^ by the Glafgow markets, and need not be litre fep&rately fitted.
Tbt PrUe of L**#i*v— The wages of day4abbureps are, in winter, from iod.
p> 1 s., and in fummer from 1 s. *d. to 1 s. 4 d. a-day. Journeymen weavers earn
from los. tp 14s. a- week, and fome 20s. In harveft, the men's wages, a-day,
For reaping, are from Is. 4d« to is. 6d., and the women's is. ; both of them
fnrakh their own provifions oat of their wages. Colliers earn from as. od. po
3 s. each day; but are fo sjaany days out 01 the pit, that they feldom, at an
average, earn above 30 L annually. The wages of domeftic fervants are, for
men iol., and for women from 3I. to 5L a- year. A ploughman's wages are,
in general, abont 10L or iaL ; but fome who have excelled at the ploughing
matches, fome rime ago introduced into this country, have got their wages ad-
vanced to 25 L a-year, befides bed, board, and warning, The expenfes of a
cosmnon labourer's family, when married, are generally about 1 61. a-year.
, ji8 Statiftical Account "
is fome of tbe worft ground tented at 109. die acre, and the beft
arable land at 3I. ; garden ground is let at from 4 1. to 6 1. a-
year. There are 3 different kinds of ploughs ufed, according
*o the nature of the foil ; hut the old Scotch plough is the moft
^common.
Villages, Rents of Houfes, and New Houfes. — As manufac-
tures are carried to a great extent in the city *f Glafgdw, their
influence is felt on all the country round ? and a number of
very populous and thriving villages have been built in this
pariih. Thefe are Calton and Bridgeton, Grahamfton, An-
derfton, Finniefton,' Olayflap, North -Woodfide, Cowcaddens,
Parkhoufe, Catniaohic, Parkhead, Wiftmuir, Shettkfton,
Lightburn, Callcndar and Deoniftouu. In thefe, the general
rent of the houfes is from a I. to 5 1. a-year, though there are
many much higher, and fome as low as 15 s. Within die laft
ten years, 486 new 4 welling. houfes or tenements, have been
built : and of thefe the greater part have been ere&ed within
the laft 4 or 5 years. It is to be obferved, that many of thefe
houfes are made to accommodate a, 3, or $ or 6 families.
None of the houfes ere&ed inr the New Town of Glafgow are
included in the enumeration, though the greateft part of ip j|
{ituated within the Barony pariftj.
Population.- -According to Dr. Webfter9* report, the aamf
ber of fouls then was 3905. In the beginning of the year
1791, there were living in the Barony parilh of Glafgow, ex-
clufive of the whole of the New Town of Glafgow, 18,431
perfons. The proportion of fouls to a family is 4T nearly.
Tho
Of Barony ofGldfgow. 1 1 9
The Papulation of the villages is as underi :
Calton and Bridgeton, 6695 Shettlefton and Riiddle-
Grahamfton, - 896 Quarter, - 766
Anderfton, - - 3900 Callendar. and Denni-,
Cowcaddens and North- ftoun, - - 608
Woodfide, - 1 158 Sandyhills, &c. 34*
Parkhoufe - 499 — —
Camlachie, -' • 977 Total, l6,ji8*
Parkhcad and Weft muir, 678
TABLE of Marriages and Births.
Yean.
Marriage*.
birth*.
fata*
Females.?
1700
21
J*
I750
4|
lOO
149
177a
3M
166
I48
1781
lit
3»o
158
l6l
"7»3
IX*
3*9
1 6a
*57
1784
137
374
197
177
»785
*5«
4»3
210
213
1786
"73
434
>ai4
2lO*
1787
306
490
149
24I
1788
179
47*
*53
217
1789
i7j
498
247
25I
1790
aia
534
269
265
1 1791
246
520
261
1 *<JQ
Both the marriages and births are, in faft, fome what more
numerous than ftated above, becaufe every year the number
of irregular clandeftine marriages is increafing ; but the above
table contains only thofe who have been regularly married, or
have judicially acknowledged their marriage before the fef-
fion. And the number of births is taken from the regifter of
feaptifms ; but fome of the duTenters, from principle, and fome
other inhabitants, from 'inattention, negled to give in their
children's names for regiftration. No account can be given
of
120 Statifticd Account
of the burial*, beeaufe, though there *» now thtee burying
places in the parifli, yet a great part of the inhabitants are in-
terred in the burjing grounds belonging to the city.
Public Houfes* — In the beginning of the year 1791, there
were 169 public houfes for retailing malt and fpiritou$ li-f
quors* The vaft increafe of thefe houfes is one of the great-
eft: injuries to the morals, the health, and the profperity of
the inhabitants. In almoft every village, feveral low houfes
of this fort are to be found; and the confequences are at once
both obvious and melancholy. If the number of virtuous in*
habitants be the ftrength of a ftate, then enlightened policy
fhould lead to the fuppreffion of many of thefe houfes, and
particularly to difcourage the ufe of all fpititous liquors.
Ecckfiqfiieal State of Ae Partfi, School, Poor, \£e — The
parifh church is a part of that venerable building, the cathe-
dral of Glafgow, and has been occupied by the Barony fince
the year 1595* Being of an arched roof, which u low, and
fupported by a great number of many pillars, it is exceeding-'
ly dark, dirty, and incommodious ; of this the heritors are fa
fenfible, that a vifitation of the prefby tery has been called up-
on it this year ; and there is fome probability of another
church being built for the accommodation of the inhabitants.
At Shettlefton, in the eaft end of the pariih, a Chapel of Eafe
was ere&cd about 50 years ago ; aod there is Another, ap
mentioned above, at North Woodfide, fupported at the fole ejfr.
penfe of Mr. William Gilkfpie. Another chapel is much'
needed in the village of Cakon, and, it is to be hoped, witf
be provided. At Andcrfton, there is a Relief Church, built
about 20 years ago ; one Cameronian meeting in the Calton,
and another at Sandyhills, in the eaft end of the pariflu
Though there are many diffenters of different denomination*
in*
Of Barmy of Glafgtm. t*l
at the parffc, thefe are the only places of worlhip, becemfc a
great namber of the inhabitants are accommodated io the city
of Glafgow. The numbers oonnefted with each of the dif-
ferent denominations of Chriftians in the parifb, including
their children, is as follows :
•
Souls.
Conne&ed wifh the Eftabliihed Church,
1*369
Relief, -
»793
IJurghers, -
- 1564
Antiburghers, r -
*©54
Reformed Prefl>yt*ry, or Cameronians,
- aao
Episcopalians, •
171
Independents, or Congregationalifts,
x6a
^fethodifts, r
64
jiaptifts, •
25
Raman Catholics, •
• 20
Quakers, •
4
jtereras, - - ' * *
3
Plaffites, - - • - -
2
Total fouls, - 1 845 1
Of thefe 608a are difieaters *. .
Vox.. XII. Q^ Thfc
♦. Though, from the above ftatement it appears, that the number of diflent-
ers from the Eftabltfhcd Church is very coafiderable, yet, perhaps there are few
pari&es where lefc of a party-fpirit is to be found. The people of various pes-
fuafions meet ia the intercourfes of focial life, and even cultivate habits of in-
timacy and triendmip with each other, without differing their minds to be em-
bittered wkh diipates refpedmg their differences of opinion or profeffion. In
this liberality of mind, they have an amiable example let them by their mini-
iters, who are men of good feafe, learning, and piety. And it is with pleafure
I do them the juilice to acknowledge, that the diflenters, in general, are t£
pious, virtuous, upright, iaduftrious, and refpeclable, as any in the parilh.
Ill . StatiJIical Account
The King is patron. The ftipend is about 165 1. annual*
]jr, including the value of the glebe, confifting of about 6
acres and a half, and the rent allowed by the heritors in lieu
of a manfe,— There are few of the inhabitants who have beeu
bred in this parijh, who have not been taught to read ; and
moft of them can write, and underftand the common rules of
arithmetic. Education is fo cheap, as not to be placed be-
yond the reach t>f the pooreft. Andjthe people are fo impref-
fcd with a fenfe of its importance, that all parents, if not moft
profligate themfelves, are exceedingly anxious to have their
children intruded in reading. They often cheerfully deny
themfelves many of the comforts of life to give their children
education ; and many of them have been rewarded, by feeing
them rifing to affluence and refpeft in fociety. As the Baro-
ny parifti-is very extenfive, the children could not be accom-
modated at one fchool. In the beginning, therefore, of this
century, the legal falary was divided into four equal parts,
and four fchools erected in thofe places of the parilh then
judged moft convenient for the inhabitants : One at Shettle-
flon, where an excellent fchool-houfe, in which the matter it
alfo accommodated, has been very lately built by private fub-
fcription ; the matter has alfo the benefit of two ftnail morti-
fications, paid by the fefiion i one fchool at Rachazie, for the
jiorth-eaft quarter of the parilh : one at Lambhill or Ruch-t
hill, for the north-weft quarter : and one at Anderiton, where
a fchool-houfe, was mortified by the laird of Stabcrofs. Be-
fides .theie, there are fifteen private fchools, attended fame of
them by above 70 ohildren : a charity fchool in the Caltpn,
Supported by Mr. David Dale, the matter has 15 1, falary an-
nually * and one in the mill at Woodfide, fupported by Mr*
Gillefpie, for the inftruftion of the children attending his
Cotton-mill. There are alfo 4 Sunday's fchools, very well at-
tended* viz* two m Calton, of about, jo children, boys and
(irl9
Of Barony of Clajgow. iaj
girls each; on6 in Camlachie, only for boys ; and one at
Shettlefton. The fchool*wages paid in the villages are as. 6d**
or 3s. the quarter; and at one fchool, 4 3. ; and in the country,
in general, 2 s. a*quarter. Many children alfo in the neigh-
bourhood of Glafgow attend fchools in the city, for different
branches of education**— s-The number of poor upon the roH
of the feffion laft year, (1790), amounted to 186* And the-
futn expended for their relief was 147 1- 8s. 4d , which, at
an average, is 2 s* a-month nearly to each* The leaft given
Co any perfon is t s. a-month, and none received mote than
5 s. a-month, excepting one woman, who is infane, for whoa*
t% s. a-month is paid by the feffion ; and feme children, who
are boarded till they are able to do fomething for themfelves,
at the rate of 3I. ia s. 8 d. a»year. The ieffion alfo pays for
their education, as they do for all the children of the poor up*
op their roll *•
(^3 Roads
• The feffion indeed are particularly attentive to thi$, being folly perfuaded .
that a proper education and habits of fobricty and induftry are of the greateft .
importance to the comfort of the individual, and die benefit of fociety. The
funds, provided fox the fupptrt of thefe poor, under the management of the fcf.
fkm were.
The collections at the chnrch-doott, amounting to »
For proclamation of banns for marriage,
Intereftpf money, ...
For a few feats in the pariih church belonging to the feuion, and
fomc other incidental funis.
And ah afleflment paid by the heritors,
The fefEon are fo much convinced, that regular afleffments for the (import of
the poor, have the moft dangerous tendency, that they exert themfelves to the
utmofl to prevent the neceffity of them. It is but a few years fince they were
obliged to have recourfe to them, and they hdpe fooh to be relieved from th<-
neceffity of reporting to fo dangerous an expedient, as they expoft a comir.o.
dious
L. 143 14
zi
46 xo
9
%2 IO
0
14 14
104
«5 0
0
L. %$% 0
J*
124 Statiftlcal Account
Roads and Canals.— All the great roads leading to the city
of Glafgpw, except by the two bridges an the & fide, pals
through this pariih. They are all kept in gdod order j but
on the N. fide of the city they have been originally formed
upon a jnoft improper plan, being carried over the top of
erery hill, in&ead of being led about the fide, which would
have both as ibort, and nearly level* The Great Canal be*
tweed
dious place of worfbip will be provided for the inhabitants. It is proper to
mention, that by the care of the elders in the distribution, no afleflment has
ever been laid on the heritors, to a greater exteiit, than the fum ftated above ;
and feme years no afleflment has been required. Before any perfon or £310117"
is admitted to receive any feffional charity, a Ariel examination a made into
their employment, date of health, circumfiancel arid earnings, all of which
are diftinclly entered into a book kept for the purpofe, and to which recourfe
is bad at any time, that the charity may be economically and properly diftri-
buted. The fums given by the feffion, are, in many cafes, very inadequate tdf
the neccftities of particular perfons ; when this is the cafe, private contributions
are made among their neighbours to fupply the deficiency, and a great deal of
money is annually raifed In this mariner, which is always beftowed at the fight
of the elder of the portion. Befides this, there are many charitable focie^
ties eftablifhed in the parifh, which afford much relief to tradetihen aftd la-
bourers when laid tffide from work by ficknefe. In general, the members, wfcew
in health, befides their firft entry-money, pay a certain fmall fum quarterly inttf
the funds 6f the focicty, for which they are entitled to a weekly provifion id
ficknefi; funeral expenfes alfi> are allowed, in cafe of death, and fome of them
alfo give a certain allowance to the widow, Mtny tradefmen are members of
feveral of thefc foci fe ties at the fame time ; fo that in ficknefe, they are better
provided for than in health. Thefe focieties are of much advantage ; becauft
in this way, youth and health make a provifion for old age and ficknefs. The J
are alfo friendly to the morals of the members, becaufe riotous, diforderly per-
fons forfeit their right in the fociety, and, in general, they are cut off from' any
fupport in difeafes evidently brought on by intemperance and vice. Of tnefe
focieties, there are 16 in the parifh. Some of them distribute annually frmtt
yl. to 10 1., and one of them diftri butcs from 45 1. to 50 1. Iu general, the mem-
bers receive from 4s. to 5s. a-week, when confined to bed, and 2s. or 3s. whefi
able to go about, but not to work. One fociety alfo, befides defraying funeral
charges, gives to the widow 10s. yearly, fox the education of any children tfn--
d*cf 10 years of age.
bf Barbny of Gtafgov). i 1 J
fcWeen Forth and Clyde pafles through part of this parilh, as
does alfo that from Monkland. The Forth and Clyde naviga*
tioa was begun to be cut on the ioth bf July 17(8, and was
opened as far as Stockingfield in this parifh, tcth July 1775 ;
a fide-cot was brought forward to Hamilton-hill, November
*777* *here a large bafon was formed for the reception df
veflels, and large granaries and other buildings etefted. They
are now carrying forward this fide-cut, in order to form «
jun&ion with the Monkland Canal, which runs eaftward
through this parifh to the collieries in Monkland parifh, and
extends to 12 miles in length. On this fide-cut, a new bafoa
is to be formed at Hundred Acre Hill in this parifh, within
half a mile of Glafgow; here granaries, and other buildings
are to be erefied, and a new village built, to be called Port-
Dundas. The Canal was opened from fea to fea on the 29th
day of July 1790, and is carried over four aqueduft bridges
in this parifli. The great bridge over Kelvin was begun in June
1787, and fiailhed in April 1791. It is carried over a valley
400 feet long, and 65 deep. It confifts of 4 very large ar«
ches of excellent mafon work ; is in height about 83 feet
from the bed of the river to the top of the bridge, and is one
of the rnoft ft upend ous works of the kind perhaps in the
world. The Canal is about 56 feet wide at the furface, and
27 feet at the bottom, is 8 feet deep, and admits veffels of 19
feet beam, and 68 feet keel. On the Canal there are 5
locks in this parifh, within the fpace of 2co yards, each lock
is 74 feet between the gates, and 20 between the walls.
There is alfo a very good dry dock for the veffels employed
upon the Canal. -
General Character of the People* — The general character of
the people, as yet, is that of fobriety and induftry, though, from
the great iuereafe of wealth, and the number of publichoufes
for
ta6 Btdttfikal Account
for retailing' fpiritous liquors, intemperance, with its long
train of evils, is becoming more prevalent than formerly a-
mong the labouring people. And it is t* be lamented* that
by the cheapnefs of fpiritous liquors, and the increasing ufe
of them, many young people of both fexes are early corrupt-
ed and ruined. Happy would it be for the health, the mo-
rals, and the profperity of the people, if fewer public-houfes
were licenfed, the ufe of fpiritous liquors checked, and good
wholefome ale iubftitutcd in their place.
NUM.
OfCairnj, jaj
DUMBER XI.
PARISH op CAIRNY.
(Countt of Aberdeen, Synod qf Murray, Presbyter? Of
Straxhbooz£.)
JBy the Rev. Mr, Alexander Chalmers
Situation, He.
'£"* AIRNY is mode up of the united pariflies of Botary,
^-^ Rathven, and part of Drumdelgy. This parifh lies in
the county of Aberdeen. It is a part of the lordlhip of Strath-
bogie, taken from the Cummins by King Robert Bruce, and
given to Sir Adam Gordon* This was the original eftate
of the family of Gordon. Since that period they have es*
tended their dominion from the E. to the W. Sea*
Population, &c. — According to Dr. Webftert report, the
numbers then were 2690. It contains at prefent 2600 people.
They confift of Prefbyterians, Papifts, and Epifcopals. They
frere more numerous at my fettlement here j the decreafe is
chiefly
1 28 Statf/iical Account
chiefly owing to their wi&ing to rcfidc in the neighbouring ma*
nufa&uringyillages of Huntly and Keith. The manufa&urers
there always find employment for a number of fervants. The
births are about 20 yearly ; but indeed they cannot be well
ascertained. Every perfon has his child baptized by his own
paftor. They are carelefs of inferting them in the public re*
gifter. The number of deaths cannot be known ; for there
are three church-yards in the pariih : St* Peter's is indeed con-
fidered as the mod holy ground, and confecrated to the Catho-
lics. The difeafes are generally of the inflammatory kind.
Some years the fmall-pox makes great ravages. The coun«
fry people are not yet reconciled to inoculation.
Agriculture, &c— The foil is generally deep and good, efpe*
cially in the lower part. If farming were encouraged, it is ca-
pable of producing grain for exportation. The ground is ge-
nerally let out in fmall tenements or crofts. Thefe are occu-
pied by a number of tradefmen, who pay their rent by their
bufinefe. The others breed fome cattle ; but indeed their
rents are chiefly paid by the women fpinning linen yarn.
They always allot a piece of their land for fowing flax-feed,
which turns out to great account. Were this branch attended
to by the land proprietors, it would much increafe the riches
and profperity of the country. The great tenants live upon
their farms, but they depend efpecially on raifing of cattle.
The pariih is tolerably well accommodated with grafs. Large
quantities are fold yearly. It may be faid, that during win-
ter, this pariih contains about 3000 black cattle. This is nof
a theep country, though there are many parcels in the pariih.
The flormy winters are unfavourable to thefe animals*
Mtfcellaneavt Obfervat ions. ~The people in the pariih of
Cairny are naturally fober and induftrious. The late incle-
ment1
OfCmruy: i»9
trait fcafons have run them into arrear of rent. This hangs
over, and much difpirits them. Were this pafled from but in
part, it would give new life to their endeavours. — Tradition
fays, that fome of the hills in Cairny were once covered
with (lately oaks. Now they prefent their nakednefs to e«
very paflenger. Not one tree has been planted here for 60
years, though the river and burn-fides are favourable to their
growth. Hard wood is fcarce, which will hurt both the far*
mer and maauf»&uftr*--Good roads (which was the foun-
dation of the profperky of the Couth country), are unknown
here. Our mpfs is exhaufted. The people muft go to Port-
foy for coals, by a road f warming with bogs and Hones. — In
the flatiftical account of this country, the manufacturing vil-
lages of Huntly and Keith fhould never be forgot. They
are the fources of much riches. They pay a great part of
the landholders r*ofc» Hwwriy promifes to be- the Paifley
of the north. Here is a large importation of flax from
Holland and Flanders. Here are bleachfields, weaving lin-
ens and cotton; threads for Nottingham. It. may be laid
that 500 1. weekly is in circulation for many months of
the year. The town is increafing. The Duke of Gordon,
the proprietor, is yearly givijig off new feus. The town
of Huntly is thriving amidft many difficulties, fortfoy,
their fea-port, is 15 miles dtftant. Thence they bring their
fuel, though the road is many times almoft impaflable.
Manufactures are of great importance in any country,
and flioold always be encouraged. They enlarge out
views, and introduce a fpirit of liberty. A manufa&urer
has always more liberal notions than a farmer.
The snaoufa&ure of linen has introduced a certain clean*
linefs over all this country. It has almoft banHhed the itch.
On a holiday, or at a fair, it is pleafont to behold the pea.
pie well drc&d, fliowing away k their clean linen and
tferead-ftockings.
Vol. XII, * NU»fc
1 30 Stati/lical Account
NUMBER XII.
PARISH or WEEM.
(COUKTT OF P£RTB, SYNOD OF PERTH AND STIRLING, PRES.
BYTERY OF DUNKELD.)
By the Rev. Mr. James M'Diarhep.
Name.
"¥TTTEEM (Wamha, a cave) is faid to have taken its name;
* * from a remarkable cave in a high rocky bank nea^
the pariih church, but of which, from the falling in of earth.
or fome other accident, no veftige now remains *.
Rivers
• This parifh is fo intermixed with thofe of Logierait, Dull, Fortingal, Ken-
more, and Killin, that it would be to little pujpofe to attempt a geographical •
defcriptioo of it. The different parts of it are pretty accurately marked in Mr.
£tobie's map of Perthfhire. From the uncommon maimer in which parishes
are divided in the prefbytery of Dunkeld, in which this parifh lies, it would
appear, that when parifhes were firft eftablifhed, every proprietor endowed the
pariih church molt contiguous to his place of refidence, with the tithes of his
own lands, at whatever diftance they happened to be fitoated. This feems to
be the moft probable reafon why the very ncareft farm to the church of Killin,
in one fide, is in the pariih of Wcem, though at the diftance of la miles from
the
OfJVcem. 131
Rivers and Lakes. — Parts of this parifh lie along the rivers
Tay, Lyon, Lochay, and Dochart. The two laft fall into
Loch Tay at the S. W, end, as the firft runs out of it at the
£. N. E. end, and is joined by the Lyon about 2 miles be-
low. A diftrift of this parifh called the 12 xnerk-land of
Achmore, lies at the S. W. corner of Loch Tay, and another
12 merk-land called Crannich, about the middle of it on the
north fide. Loch Tay is 15 miles long; and about 1 broad,
yields falmon, trout, char, pike, and perch. Salmon is caught
in drag-nets from October to Auguft* and is fent to Perth and
Edinburgh. There are alio two lakes or lochs in the hill-,
grazing of the diftrid of Roro in Glenlyon, each of which
is more than a mile long, and about half as broad, which af-
ford a great variety of trouts, and in great abundance. A
man with his fifhing-rod, has been known to catch 20c in a
day, from 4 ounces to a. pound weight a-piece.
Highways, Bridges. — The great military road leading from
Stirling to Invernefs, paffes through this parifh, and is joined
by feveral county roads at Tay bridge, which is about half a
mile from the parifh church. The military road is kept in
repair by the Government, and the other roads by the ftatute-
labour. Since thefe roads were made, 5 or 6 double carta
ply conftantly between this country and Perth. In fummer
R 2 they
the church of that parifh ; and there are other farms belonging to it at (till a
greater, both in Glenlyon and Glenlochay, fome of which arc above 30 miles froni
the parifh church ; and parts of feveral other parifhes, and even feveral parifh
churches intervene. All thefe lands ftill hold of the family of Menztes. This
divifion of parifhes would be extremely inconvenient, both for the pallors and
people, were it not for the harmony that has always fubfifted among the for-
mer. Every clergyman performs the* feveral functions of his office to thofe who
*ive moft contiguous to him, whether they are his own parifhioners or not, ex.
cepting only parochial vifitations an4 catechifing, which every minifter confines
to his own parifhioners.
\yi Statifiical Account
they come and go twice a- week, in winter only once a- week*
They are commonly well loaded going and returning. Be-
fictes thefe, fhopkeepers and farmer? fend a number of carts
to Perth for merchant goods, fak, iron,, tar, and other neccf-
faxies. Before the roads were made, a very few horfes car-
ried in back-loads, all the goods that were brought to, or font
from this country. Here are likewise very good bridges on
the rivers' Lyon and Lochay*
Mountains, Climatt, &c— The moft remarkable mountains,
of which a- part belong to this pariflt, are that of Lawers on
the north fide of Loch Tay, and Benteflterny m Gienlaehay.
The firft of thefe is- reckoned the higheft in Pertbftke, be-
ing, according to a measurement, 4015 feet from t&e level
of the lea. Thefe mountains produce a. great* variety of al-
pine plants that are rarely to be met with in other parts oi
Britain. The air in this country is, in general, pure and
healthy. Epidemical difeafes feldom make their appearance,
excepting flfteafles, fmaU-pox, and chin-cough. Before the
praftice of inoculation was introduced, the fmaft-pox gene*
rally carried off one in 7 ; but fince inoculation has become
pretty general, not 1 in 200. Even thofe who are- feized
without being inoculated, efcape much better than formerly,
a? the cool regimen is univerfally obferved. The moft com*
mon difeafes, are rheumatifms both acute and chronic, pleu~
rifies, quinfies, and other inflammatory diforders. The jaun-
dice, before the year 1789, was a very uncommon difordes
in this country ; but fince that period, hundreds have been
feired with it of all ages, and feres. It is indeed but a flight
diforder whet^ taken in time, and properly treated, efpecially
when the patient is young, or ,in the vigour of life ; but
where it attacks old people, or women with child, or when
it is neglefted, or improperly treated, it often proves a te-
dious,
Of Witm. 133
dions, and in fane cafe*, a dangerous diibrdcr. No change
ia the way of liviog can account for this difofder- being fo
frequent. In the cure of the pleorify, aa uncommon me-
thod of cupping was anciently uied in- this country, as well
as m many ocher parts of the BigMaads* Th* part aflfefted
was iightty fcarified with araaor, in- the form- of a circle,
and the bread end of ft large cow horn wa* applied1 over it,.
and a- piece being ea* off the top, ie was ftrongry fucked by
a; perfonY mouthy by wktefe meads' a cwnflderable quantity of
blood: was flakes away, a&4 oftet* almoft immediate relief was
procured; Sineefth*u£e of b&fters and- proper cupping apw
pova&ss have- been inflpodbetd; this awkward method is, in
meft places,* <K4coft«inaedk A few tertian, and many putrid
an** nervous fever* are frequently brought from the Low
C&ufttfy. The' tertian* art efcfiry cured j but the other kinds
06 fever pro** often infe&ious, Ipread over confiderable dif-
tods, an&feinefeme* etrt off a greg* many lives.
. &i/» Produce, &c.-~The foil of this parilh varies accord-
ing to-tft* dMfefene parts of the* country in which it is firuat-
edt The accounts gfoen of the foil in the parilkes of Dull,
Fomngal, Kenmotfe, and Killin, apply refpefiively to the
parts of this paritfh that are interwoven with thefe. The
ftttiber of ploughs is 7c, mod- of them now drawn by %
horfes. The number of carts is at leaft double that of ploughs,
as many keep a cart who do not yoke a horfe in a plough.
In* the fewer paste of the pariih, ao acres arable may be
seekoned stpkyerghgate ; but in the higher parts, not above
7 o* 8. There are fown annually in this pariih, 500 bolls of
oats, Linlithgow xiieafure* which yield, at an average, four-
fold; ro>5 bolls of banrley, or rather bear, yielding about fir-
fold ; peafe, 40 bolls, yielding three-fold ; potatoes, 125 bolls,
yielding twelve-fold ; and 15 hogflseads of flax feed, yielding
• between
134 Statiftical Aicount
between 3 and 4 Hones the peck of fcutched flax. The whol*
of this flax is dreffed in water mills, which are ere&ed in
different parts of the country. The owner of the lint pays
xs. 4d. the {tone, for dreffing it at the mill. The whole of
the flax, except what is neceflary for linen for the people
themfelves* is fpun into yarn of 4* 5, or 6 hanks fronl the
pound weight, and fold in that Hate to mannfa&urers in
Perth and Glafgow. There is a good deal of lime ufed for
manure ; and were it not for the fcarcity and expenfe of fuel
to burn it, there would be much more ufed, as the limeltone
is in great plenty in mod places of this country ; and as it is
invariably found to fucceed wherever it can be procured.
Dung of the cattle and horfes is almoft the only other ma-
nure ufed here. No marl has been difcovered. There have
been of late years, a few patches fown with turnips, and af-
terward laid down with clover and rye-grafs feeds, and both
hay and turnips have anfw^rcd very well. Turnips and po-
tatoes are laid down in drills, and carefully hoed. There is
very little of the ground ericlofed or fubdivided. March-fences,
and head-fences to feparate the arable from the pafture grounds;-
have been built in moil places within the lait 30 years. Be-
fore that period, the whole might, for the greateft part of
the year, be confidered as a common; but jnow, in mod
places, marches are ftriSly pbferved to the very tops of the
mountains.
Animals — Quadrupeds of the wild kind, are, a few red
deer, roes, foxes, hares, wild cats, martins, otters, badgers,
polecats, weafels, ermines, and moles. The foxes, before
the year 1760, made great havock among the fheep, goats,
&c. ; but from that time, regular fox-hunters have been em-
ployed at fixed falaries, by whofe diligence and Ikill vaft num-
bers of foxes have bren deftroyed j fo that their number is
now
0/ Wccm. 135
now greatly reduced. Eagles, hawks of various kinds, ravens,
hooded crows, and kites, breed in great numbers in rocks
and woods ; and deftroy lambs, and a great deal of game and
poultry ; and yet there has been no public, and fcarce any
private encouragement given for their deftru&ion. While
the game laws are fo fevere, that (hepherds, and others, whofe
occupation leads them to the places where thefe deftru&ive
creatures mod abound, dare not carry a gun or kill a fingle
moorfowl, no great effects can be expeded from any plan
laid down for deftroying birds of prey, though it may be
fafely averred, that one of thefe will deftroy more game in
a feafon, than 10 {hepherds would do, though they were at
perfect liberty to kill as many as they could *.
There are- in the parifh 1236 head of black cattle, and 290
horfes. Cows are worth from 2I. ios. to 5I., according to
the part of the country in which they are bred, thefe in the
glens being of greateft value. Horfes coft from 5I. to 15I.
Before the introduction of fheep-farming, a great many fmall
horfes were reared in the hilly parts of the country; but now
moft of the horfes required in this parifli, are bought from
Argylefhire, or from the Low Country.
There are about 8000 fheep, befides the ufual proportion
of lambs and year olds. Thefe are moftly of the Lammer-
moor breed. A few of the long Englifli kind, and alfo of
the Cheviot breed, have been introduced; but we have not
had
* There are both black and red game in the parilh, ptarmigans, plovers,
fnipes, partridges, and dotterels. Malards, gulls, and other water fowl come
to hatch in the lochs. Birds of pafiage are, cuckoos, woodcocks, fieldfares,
bullfinches, and fnowflakes. A few of thefe laft hatch in our higheft moun-
tains. Birds that are not reckoned game, birds of prey, or migratory birds,
are, rooks, magpies, jays, daws, woodpeckers, ring ousels, water ouzels (very
deftru&ive to the fpawn of fim) thruraes, blackbirds, larks of feteral denomi-
nations, linnets, and a great variety of fmall birds. #
136 Satljthcl Account
had them long enough to give a decided opinion, whether ap
not they will anfwer with our pafture. Ewe and lamb fell
for 12 s. or 14 s., 3 year old wedders at about the fame price,
and younger Jheep in proportion* The wool is, in general,
ooarfe, and fetches only between 79. and 8 s. the'ftoue tron ;
j9 9, and even 9 fleeces go to the ftoaetron. What is not ma-
nufa&ured for the ufe of the inhabitants, of the wool, is Cent
to Perth, Stirling, and AHoa* Before keep-farming was in-
troduced, about 30 years ago, we had a fmall fpecics of iheep
with white or reddiih faces, and fine wool ; but thefe wewj
confidered to much inferior to the black faced kind in the
fue of the carcafe ((he only objeft attended to till of late),
that the race is either adulterated or extirpated. Many of
the moft fenfible Jheep farmers begin to regret (his, as they
now perceive that the difference in the value of the wool, and
in the great number of the fmall ftieep that might be kept
on the fame pafture, would more than compenfate for the
difference in the weight of the carcafe. Till the period above
mentioned, fiieep were confidered as of little value in this
country. Fanners kept only as many as were fufficient to
clothe their families and afford them a little mutton, as there
was very little demand for either wool or mutton from ether
countries. There were befides, feveral circumftance* m the
management of (Keep that prevented their thriving. They
were thought fuch tender animals, that they could not be left
with fafety to lie in the open air during the night in winter.
Independent of this prejudice, the number of foxes rendered
it a neceffary precaution to houfe them at night. The lambs
were allowed to come too early in the feafon before the ewes
had any new grafs* There was indeed no winter graft re*
lerved for them. From the middle of May they were miUu
ed every morning, the lambs being feparatod from them ever*
r^ ht, till about the end of June, when the lambs were wean-
ed.
OfWtem, 137
cfl. This prevented tfa* lamb* from erer coming to their full
xc. The ewes continued to be milked evening and morn-
ing till the end of September, being for moft part of that
time confined all. night in very narrow folds. It is now be-
lieved by very judicious farmers, that the old fpe&es, with
the fame treitment, would prove fall as hardy as the black*
laced kind, and that 5 of them at leaft might be kept on the
fame grafs that is fnfici^nt for 4 of the other,
Populmtion.— According to Br. Webster's report, the poptK
lation then was 1195. There are at prefent 1364 fouls in the
pariih, of whoqi 63a are males, and 7*0 females.
Below xo jrears, . 315 From 50 to 70, - 167
fromxo to ao, * 249 From 70 to 80, - 45
From ao to jof - 571 From 89 and upwards, 17
Farmers, • (08 Coopers, 6
Crofter*, . . .50 Weavers, 14
Cottagers, ,. no Ftacdreflers, - 19
Smiths, • 3 Woolcombers, - 3
Wrights, 10 Tailors, 6
Wheelwrights, - 6 * Millars, r - 4
Vol. XII. S &*nt0
• The registers of baptifias and marriages afford Jiqtle injvrmatioii, by which
one can judge of the population of the parilb, as a great proportion of both
marriages and baptifms are regiftered in the j>arifhcs of Kiilin and Fortingal,
that belong to this parilh. There is no regifter of buria^ kept, nor would it
indeed be eafy, as the people in this country do not bury either in the neareft
.burial ground, nor in that belonging to their parilh ; but they always endea-
vour, at whatever diftance, to bury with their anceftors. From an average of
fa-families, taken at random, the number of children bora of each marriage,
\
1^1 Statyik&l Account
Rent, I&ritors, &c— The valued rant of -.the pariih is
16X3L Seoti, the real rent about 1650I. Sterling, The whole
pariih, except one f*rm belonging to Mr. Men^ies of Cul-
dares, 19 tbu property of two heritors, the I£trl of Breadal-
Vane, and Sir John Menzjgs of Msnzies, Baronet. Sir Job*
Menzies is patron, and haj» bis principal refidemce at Caftla
ifenztes in this profit, Trhere he refides for a part, of the
year. It is a baudfotn* edifice bail* io the forin. of a caftje,
with turrets, Sec. It was built in the year 1571. The grounds
around it \yp*e greatly attorned by the late Sir Robert Men-,
aid, wi& gardens, plantations, and beautiful walk*. It is
fituated under a mod beautiful bank* which i» covered with
trees of various kinds, and is of confiderable length and
lwight, having am eitfeniwe Jlain in front toward? the forth*
ipbich is- divicje4 into a nujnber of euclofures. Here are
]jl|ewife; t flrcfearfc, vybifih yield a great quantity pf apples,
pears, cherries, and the fineft of geans both black and red.
The Earl of Breadalbane's kitchen" garden is alfo in this pa*
X}Qx9 aud yiejds a good quantity of fruit pf different kind*
on the walls anjd efpaliers, and a . great variety of vegetables.
fof the table in high perfection.
Churchy Mflufe, Stipend^ Sfbcet, PoQr. — The church wag
fouilt, according to an infeription above the door, in the year
1609, and repaired in 1752I When it was firft built, and
many
is €i nearly. For, though in the grazing parts of the country there are un-
doubtedly fewer perfons, yet the increafe in the lower parts, it is prefumed, at
lead compenfates for that decreafe. There are no diffenters from the EftablUh-
ed Church of any denomination. Servant's wages are increafed rapidly for
fomc years part. In the year 1778, a man fen-ant got 3 1, and maintenance,
who now gets 61. or 7I. ; a maid fervapt's wages have rifen during the fame
period from z 1. 10 s. to 3I. in the year, ana* all labourers and tradefmen's wages
in proportion.
OfWcm* 139
lliany years Afterward, it was fully fulficieht to contain all
*he congregation that affembled to it ; but fince the know-*
ledge and pra&ice of true religion have been mote widely
diffufed, the church is by much too fmall for the congrega-
tion, efpecially in the fummer months, when at leaft a fourth
of them are obliged to fit without, the windows being thrown
open, and a great many old and infirm people obliged to re*
main at home, who cannot venture to fit in the open air.
Two-thirds at leaft of the congregation are from the parifhes
of Dull, Logierait, and Fortingal, their own parifh churches
being at too great a diftance. The manfe was built in 1744^
and had fome reparations fince, but is ftill the tnoft inconve-
nient manfe in this country. The glebe is * about 3! acres
arable, of a good light foil, and about an acre of pafture and
meadow, befides a garden J of an acre* The living, exchu
five of the glebe, was formerly 36L 3 s. 7d. Sterling in mo-
ney, and 32 bolls, Linlithgow tneafure, half oat meal, half
bear. Laft fummer-feffion (1792) it was augmented to 64
bolls viftual, and 661. 3 s. 7d. money, including communion
elements *.— There is a fchool maintained by the heritors.
S a The
• It was ufual for the minifters of Weem and fcettmore to officiate, the Uu
f er every 5th Sunday, and the former 4 times a-year, at Lawers, on the north
fide of Loch Tay, where there is a pretty good chapel built by the Earls of
Breadalbane. About % years ago, the Society for Propagating Ghriftian Know-
ledge, out of a fund bequeathed them by the late Lady Glenorchy, for the pur-
pofe of encouraging religion and induftry on the eftate of Breadalbane, fettled
a miffionary minifter, who officiates alternately at La were, on the north fide,
and at Ardeonaig on the fonth fide of Loch Tay. The Society allow him 20 k
a-year, and the Earl of Breadalbane as much, with, a houfe and a piece of land
in name of a glebe. This eftabliftunent precludes the neceffity of the minifters
of Weem or Kenmore preaching at Lawers, and the minifter of Killin from
preaching at Ardeonaig. l*he minifters of Fortingal and Weem, ftill officiate
in Gleidyon, the former once in 5 or 6" weeks, the later 5 or 6 times a-year, at
a pUot
140 Stati/Hcal Account
The fakry was only 61. 13 s. 4<L 'Sterling, till this yt*t
(1793) that the heritors have, of their own free motion*
raifeditto 11 1. as. 3jd. This, with fchool-wages, feffion^
clerk's fees, &c. may amount in whole to 24 L There is a
good fchool-houfe, fchoolmafter's dwellingrhoufe, and a fmall
garden *. — There are few poor in this pariih, and they are*
for the moft part, fupported by their own induftry, and occa-
fional fupplies from the parifli funds. There are at prefent
12 per*
a place about 20 Aatute miles from the church at Weem. There is a good
chapel built there a few years ago, by the voluntary contributions of the inha-
bitants of that valley, and forae fmall donations from a few of the neighbour-
ing gentlemen. The inhabitants of Glenlyon, about a fourth of whom are in
this pariih, have been remarkable for honefty, induftry, and fobriety, for many
generations, before the furrounding countries were brought to the ftate of ci-
vilization'they arc ia a£ prefent. "this mult be attributed to two concurring
caufes ; I ft, The pioprfetors of this valley (the Campbells of Glenlyon) were
tbtmfelves, for many defcents, men of great integrity, and encouraged fuck of
their retainers only as were of the fame difpofition. ad, A fpark of religion
was early kindled among them, which being, for a little time, confined to a few
families, has long ago diffufed itfelf over the whole valley. The religion of
tiiefe people is not of the fpeculative difputatious kind, but ftich as influences
the whole of their conduit in their intercourfe with mankind*
* There are ltkewife 3 other fchools fupported from a fund of 6oeo merles
Scots, mortified for that purpofe by Mr. Archibald Campbell, firft PreJbyterian
minffter of this parifli, who was admitted about the year 1703. The interest
of that furt only, is* employed according to the deed! of mortification, for the
maintenance of 3 fchools in the moft remote parts Of the parifli, i. e. 5L 11 a.
x}d. to each of the 3. This furti, at the time it was firft given (about the
year 1740) was fufficitnt for iupporting a lad to teach for 7 months in the year,
which at that time was all that was required, as the people difperfed through
the mils with their cattle in tht riionth of May, and* tne fchools did not con-
vene till after the harveft was finiflied. Since Aeep farming was introduced,
the people remain at home the whole year, confequently the fchools would be
of the fame confequence in fummer as in winter. The Society for Propagating
Chriftian Knowledge, allow one of fhefe fchopls 5I. a year (that at Roro In
Glenlyon) in addition to the former falary, which enables the fchoolm after fo
teach through the greateft part of the year. Thefe 3 fchoohnafters a& like-
wife as catechifts.
OfWcem< 14.1
II perfons, ftioftly old women, on the poor's lift. The funds
irife from the Sunday collections, and the rents of a few feats
•in the church. The yearly diftributions amount to about 24 1.
The weekly colle&ions have greatly decreafed of late years ;
the family of Menzies having refided in the parift only a few
months in the year.
Mifcellaneous Obfervations.— Few or none have emigrated
beyond feas from this parifh ; but whole troops of boys and
girls go annually to the low country for fervice, and of late
to the cotton-works, many of whom fettle there. — There is
only one inn in the parifh, and five ale-houfes, or whifky-
houfes. Thcfe laft are very little frequented but at weddings,
markets, and other public meetings. — The Gaelic language
is that commonly fpoken, but Englifh, of the Scottifh dialed,
is generally underftood— Peat?, which are made at a confider-
able expeofe, carried from a great di fiance, and in many pla-
ces becoming fcarce, are the only fuel of this parifh. There
have never any attempts been made for finding coal, though
it is laid there are favourable appearances of them in the
Earl of Breadalbane's lands. His Lord (hip has it in contem-
plation to caufe a fearch to be made. The greateft hindrance
to improvement in agriculture, arifes from this fcarciry and
expenfe of fuel, as thereby the farmers, in many places,
are precluded from burning any lime for manure, though
the limeftone is in gTeat abundance, and the greateft part
of the fummer, which might be profitably employed in fal-
lowing, draining, enclofing and making different kinds of
compoft for manure, is entirely fpent in calling, drying,
and carrying home peats. More horfes and carts are like-
wife deftroyed in this work, than by all other farm-la-
bour.—Another great hindrance *to agriculture in gene-
ral, is the want of leafes. While a man poffefles a farm
only
X4& SUttijlkal Account
only from year to year, ** the will of his landlord (whkh
is the cafe here) he can have little fpitit for improvement,
as he is altogether uncertain who is to reap the fruits of his
induftry.
All tfre general obferranons made on the parishes of Dull,
Fortingal, Kenmore and Killin, apply alfo to the pariflt of
Weem, as it is fo curioufly interwoven with them.
NUM.
or Cuttt*. i+%
NUMBER XIII.
PARISHot CULLEN.
(County of Banff, Synod of Aberdeen, Presbytery op
Fordtcj.)
By tie Rev. Mr. Robert Grant.
Royalty Extent, Climate; W*.
CULLEN, as appears from old charters, was originally
called Inverculan, becaufe it ftands upon the bank of
the Burn of C alien, which, at the N. end of the town, falls
into the fea : but now it is known by the name of Cullcn on*
ly. Cullen is a rojal burgh, formerly a cooftabulary, of
Which the Earl of Findlater was hereditary conftable. The
fet, as it is called, of the council, confifts of 19, in which mn6«
ber are included the Earl of Findlater, hereditary prefes, 3
bailies, a treafurer, a dean-of-guild, and 13 councilors. The
parilh extends from the fea fouthward, about % English miles
in length, and about 1 mile in breadth* The annexed part
of the parHh of Rathven, quoad /acra, is of extent about 3
miles in length, and a in breadth, forming together the figure
of a quadrant, having a flraight line on the N. and E. and
lbs
t+4 Statifiical Account
the fegment of a circle on the W. and S. The face of xh%
country is neither hilly nor flat ; in general the fields have
an eafy gentle flope. - Jne foil is of 3 Junds \ the greateft
part is a fine rich loam, upon a foft clay bottom ; fome field*
of a ftrong rich clay, and a few of a light loam, upon a tilly
bottom. As the fields in general are dry, and as the hills in.
the neighbouring parifhes of Rathven and DeMojod attract the
clouds and vapours that arife from the fea, the air of this pa*
rjfiz is pure and extremely wholefome ; as a proof of this, ma*
ny of the inhabitants live and enjoy comfortable health, till
far pad 80, and feverals above 90 years. And no local or epi?
4emxcal diftempcr has been known to prevail in the memory
of any perfon alive. Even the finall-pop, in the, natural way,
is become mild* and in no proportion fo fatjal as in former
times ; but this may be owing to the greater degree of clean*
linefs among the people, and learning the modern treatment
4>f that loathfome diftemper.
Agriculture.— Tat, farms are fmall, from 5 1. to 50 1, of
sett* and the fine field about the town is let in fmall lota, to
accommodate the inhabitants. Although the foil is fit to pro-
duce ,any kind of grain, yet the crops generally railed are,
oats, barley, peafe, bepna, turnip, potatoes, fowu grafs and
flax* Flax feeigs to be a precarious crop upon the eaft coaft
of Scotland; the foil and donate axe *oo dry for it, but in a
moift feafon .there are good crops. This observation might,
perhaps, be worthy the attention of landholders and farmer*
is moifler climates, where crops of corn are more precarious,
to encourage the culture of flax ; efpecially as it is an early
crop, and fit for pulling before the feafon of the rnildews, fq
fatal to grain, generally fets in. The average rent of the land
is from 10 a* to a 1. 10 ». the acre. The only plough ufe4
liefl
Of Culkn. 145
here is the light Yorkfhire plough, commonly drawn by 9
fiorfes,
Fi/berus.— The fea affords, plenty and variety of fiikes,'
haddock, whiting, flounders, mackerel, holybut, turbot, cod,'
ling, tu(k, flcate, dog and cat. The only fhell-fifli in aburi*
dance is crab and lobfter, which lift are caught in great quarii
titles, 2nd of late fent to the London market. There are two '
fiflriag villages, one at the north end of the town of Cullcn^
where there ate 7 fifliing boats ; and one called Portkhockies;
2 miles weft of CuUien, in the annexed part of the parifli of
Rathven, where there are other 7 boats. Each boat has 6
men ; by whofe induff ry the town and country arotind are am*
ply fupplied with good fifli. Befides what ii fold daily, th4
fifhers cure and dry a considerable quantity of cod, ling, fkate
and haddocks, which, after ferving the country, they carry to
Montrofe, Forfar, Dundee and Letth, where, befides their oil,
each man fells at an average, 16 1. value of fifli ; and the^
bring home hemp, w6ol, and (kit for their own ufe*.
^ Manufa&ureil — fiefote the year i74'8, the inhabitants of
C alien were as poor and idle as any fet of people in the north4*
There wis no induftry, trade, nor manufacture among them :
their oily employment wal to hbour a fe* acres of hind, aid to
keep tippling houfes ; and often to drink with one aether*
fo confume the beer for want of cuftomers. The late Earl of
ftncllater, that trite patridf, pitying the fituation Of the people,
refolved to introduce the linen manuffefture among them.
And here, perhrfps, it may not be improper to . mention the
method he adopted to promote this purpcfe. He brought %
or 3 gentlemen's fons fro& Edinburgh, whd had been regu-
larly bred there to the bri&nefs, and who had fome patrimony
of their own ; but, for their encouragement to fettle td far
Tst. XII. ' T north,
ty$ Statijtlctit Actbuni
north, he gave' to each 600 1. frete of intereft for feveh years \
after which, the money waj to be repaid by 50 1 yearly, the
Remainder in their hands t6 be always free of intereft. Be-
sides this, he built excellent weaving fhops, and furniihed
every accpmmodation at very reafonable rates : and as his
lordfliip prefided at the Board of Truftees at Edinburgh, he
obtained for his young manufa&urers, premiums of looms,
heckles, reels, and fpinning wheels, with a fmall (alary to a
fpinning miftrefe. So good a plan, and fo great encourage-
ment, could not fail of fuccefe. In a few years, the manu-
facture w*s eftablifhed to the extent defired. All the young
people were engaged in the bufinefsj and even the old found
employment id various ways by the manufa&ures : and thus
* fpirit of induftry was diffufed over the place and neighbour*
hood in a very fliort time, which foon appeared in their com-
fortable mode of living, and their drefs. The manufa&ure
here, as well as in other places, has had its viciffitudes, owing
to good 07 bad markets and demands ; but ftill it continues
on the whole in a comfortable ftate. There are in this fmall
^lace 65 looms, reonftaotly employed ia weaving linen, fome
few of them m weaving damalk* The manufa&urers aUb
give out a great number of webs to be woven by country
weavers in their own (bops. There are alfo 7 locking looms
jniifiantly employed;
. Population. — According to Dr. Webfter's report, the popu»
lation then was 900. About xoo years ago, at the average
of 7 years, multiplying the baptifms by 26, the number of
people m Cullen, and the annexed part of the parifli of Rath-
ven, amounted to 8p6. 60 years fince, by the fame rule, the
Bnmber was 1&40, but the accuracy of the regifters, I am a*
fraid, caimeft be depended upon* By a lift taken in 1791,
cferamber of fouls in the parifh of Cullen, tfhd the annexed
part
Of Cu&n. H7
part of the piriih of Rat^ven, amounted to 1 7 ig» Of which*
in the parilh of Cullen 1*14; of thefe, rnales 550, female*
(64. In the annexed part of Rathvcn 50 j \ males ^71, fe«
males 234. Of the above numbers in Cullen, and the annex-*
ed part of Ra^hven, there are under 7 years of age^ males 140,
females 115. The increafe of jfhq population has been only
in the town of Cullen, and in the fea-towns of Cul}en and
Portfcnockies : for during the periods of the above average*
calculations, there were feyeral farms well peopled, which,
after that, were enclofed for the Earl of Findlater's own ac*
commodation, and aje fince uninhabited. The average, q£
baptifms annually, is about 45, marriages l%. The bulk of
the people are of the Eftablifhed religion* Before the year
17829 there was not one Catholic in the pari(ha atpjefenl
there are about 30, and ,8 Episcopalian^
Churchy Stipend^ Schpl^ Charitable foundation tx Poqn, ?^f •— i
Cullen feems originally to have been a CJhapel of Eafe for tho
accommodation of the people of that corner of the pariih of
Fordyce, and the contiguous part of Rathven ; there were 2
churches or chapels, that of St, ^ary and St. Anne; thelau
ter was a prebend. The prefent church is compounded of the
(wo former j it is very old, not well lighted, and too fmall
for the congregation. The Earl of Findlater and Seafield is
patron. The {Upend confifts of 40 1. 18 s. to^* d. in money,
including jo merfes for communion elements, % chalders of
barley and a chalders of weal, fhe glebe Qojpfifts of 4I acres
and fome faUs ; but the miuiftor has no, graft* hot tty allow-
ance for it. The jnanfe was repaired about 7 years fince, at
which time there was a complete fet of offices built and co-
vered with jiates. I<Qrd .Fi.pdla.ter is proprietor of the whole
pftri&t «vcept fome property J^ionging to the taj^n-co^ncil *
Wf JsnaH heritage coofiflmgof a >hodEi» a garden, tndM*oi*
Tj of
-.^
1 48 Statijlical Account
pf land, and fomc few acres mortified for pious ufes *.— There
is generally a good fchool in Cullen, where from 40 to 5$
Boys are taught Latin, tnglifh, writing, arithmetic, and book!
keeping ; but the fchoolmafter's falary is very final! : he has
only about 61. 10 s. a-year, the greatcft part of which arifes
jrom trfo pious donations, to be afterward mentioned There
15 a pretty good fchool-houfe, and a convenient room for the
accommodation of the mafter. School-fees for teaching Eng~
Elh is. 6 d.t writing and arithmetic % s», and for Latin as 6d.
the quarter.' There is a fchoolmiftrda who has a {alary of jl.
for teaching girls to read and few. "And there are generally
other two fchools, where young children are taught to read
Engliih, and are inftrufted in the principles of fchriftianity.
The Earl of Findlater had a bede-houfe in the town of Cullen,
which accommodated & poor men,'1 who tad' peats allowed
them for fuel, and each had 6i bolls pf meal yearly. The
fcede-houfe being ruinous, was lately takeiTdown ; but the
Earl allows a houfe free of rent, and the fuel, to fuch of the
bede-men as incline to poflefs it, but few of them feem in*
clined to do it j but the meal is regularly given to poor per-
fons, and fometimes divided between two poor families, which
makes it more extenfively ufefult.— The number of poor re-
' " ceiving
• Lord Findlater has his chief feat of refidence here, called fuljen houfe. It
is literally founded upon a rock, which is above 50 feet high, almoft perpendi-
cular, hanging over the bum of Cullen. The fituation of the houfe is romanti-
cally pleafant, having a beautiful prbfpecl to the S., and a fine view of the Mc^
ray-frith id the N. To the W. of the houfe there is ah excellent bridge of one
arch, caft over the burn, 84 feet wide, and 64 feet high, which makes an eafy com-
munication with the park and woods, where the ground admits of endleis beau-
ty and variety,
f William Lawtie of Myrehoufe, appointed a croft of land, with fome houfes
and a fum of money, "with'which were £urchafed fome additional acres of land;
which pay of yeaily rent for behoof of the poor, to bolls and an half of barky;
and 13s. of money* This foundation is under the management of the heirs of
• - the
Of CuUcn. 149
/teiving alms is 80 5 which is very great, confidering the nam*
her of the people ; the chief reafon of this is, the liberal fup-
plies which they receive from the beneficence of the noble fa-
mily here, snakes them preb in from all corners. As there
are
the lt*e Rev. Mr. Lawtie of Fordy**, John Lawtie, burgeft of Cnllen, be-
queathed Jus whole property, confining of a houfe, a (mall garden, and a croft
of land for behoof of the poor of Cullen, which pays of yearly rent to the kirk-
fcffion, 1 guinea. William Leflie of Bird&ank, an heritor in the pariu, be*
nueathed the fum of a 1000 merles Scotch, the intereft of which/ was to be ap-
plied as an encouragement to a fchoolmafter in Cnllen, under dire&]o?*,of the
jnagiftrates of Cnllen. This money, by a negotiation of the magistrates, was
fettled in the hands of the Earl of Findlater, upon his agreeing to make fome
addition to it, and he thereby is become patron of the fchool, the magiftrates
and council paying ll. is. ad. tf-iaths, of a farther addition, which makes the*
falary in whole 5I. Sterling yearly. A man of the name of Smith, who had a
pnall honfe, a garden, and a croft of land, left them and the rents of them as
an additional encouragement to tlje fchoolmafter of Cullen— the rent of the
whole is about ll. 10s. yearly. John Lorimer, town-clerk of Cullen, appoint-
ed a piece of land, with 1 or a houfes upon it, for the education of a boy at the
fchool of Cullen, of )um own name, or related to him. Befides the rent of the
Jioufes, the land paid, in the end of the laft century, 6 bolls charitat bear, that
is, 6 bolls, 6 pecks barley, yearly. This foundation has -been very ufeful in
jgiYing education to a number of the founder's relations ; and among others, to
a great nephew of his own, Mr. William Lorimer of St. James's parilh, Lon-
don, who out of gratitude for the benefit of his own education upon his great
uncle's burfe at the fchool of Cullen, appointed by his laft will, a fum of money
fit to produce, by intereft, 1 L Sterling yearly, to purchafe books for his great
uncle's burfar at Cullen; and alio, 10 s. yearly to the fchoolmafter at Cullen, for
his attention to (aid burfar : And further, the. fatd Mr. William Lorimer ap-
pointed the intereft of 200 1. Sterling, for a burfary at the Marifchal College of
Aberdeen ; and that bis great uncle's burfar at Cullen, when found qualified,
jfhould enjoy this burfary at the college, with the relations by his mother alter-
nately. Mr. William Lorimer's burfary is under the direction of the mafters of
^fffarifchal College, and the magiftrates and church-feffion of Cullen. John
Watfon, merchant in Edinburgh, appointed the intereft of 1000 merks Scotch,
for affifting in the education of a boy at the fchool of Cullen, related to himfelf
by father or mother ; alfo, the intereft of xooi Scotch, to be paid to the maf.
ter of the fchool of Cullen for the boy's education. Collector John Ogilvie of
the
X|9 Sfatifikal Afftvnt
are oo poor'* rates, the only ordinary /applies arife from the'
w.eejdy cplle&ipns at the church, with the intereft pf fome
fettled money, amounting in whole to about 35 J. a-jear : out
pf which the feffionnclerk .and oncers fees are paid. This
would be by no means an adequate fupply for fuch a number
of poor, if Lord Findlater did not onlj give 10 bolls and a fir-
lot of meal yearly tp be distributed by the church feffion, bat
utfo appoint fupplies of meal «nd money for aH their estgen*
cies, which makes their ftate here better than anywhere ejfc
i$ the neighbourhood *f
Woods. — -ft may not be improper from Cullen, the prin-
cipal feat ojf the Earl pf Findlater and Seafield, to take a ge-
feft&l view of the immenfe plantations of trees made by tha£
family. Before the year if 44, little in that way was 4eae*
The whole country, and even about Cullen houfe, was naked
and deftitute of cover or ornament from trees. Since the
above period, it appears by attefted lif^s before the writer!
that the Earls xrf Findlater have planted upwards pf 8ooq
Scotch
'the cuftoms at Iavernefi, and his fon bailie William Ogilvie, merchant hi Bann*
bequeathed the fum of 44 1. os. Sterling, the intereft of which is to be applied
"by the chureh-feffion of Cullen, for behoof of their poor relations, and the poor
of the parilh in equal parts. James Ogilvie, formerly wadfetter of Logic, be*
queathed for behoof of the poor of the parilh of CuHen, the fum of 300 merk*
Scotch.
* Although the whole produce of grain in the • parilh is never firfficient for
the confuxnpt of the people, yet meal is always here in as great plenty, and as
good in quality, and as cheap, as in any part of Scotland ; owing to the atten-
tion of Lord Findlater and his managers. 20 or 30 years fince, eggs fold 14 foi
a penny, now they are 2 d. for 13. Hens, which were fold for 4 d. each, now
give 7 d. and 8 d. Beef and mutton, which ufed to fell from 1 d. to % d. the
£ound, now fell from %\ d. to 4 & the pound. Haddocks, which were from x d.
to 2d. the dozen, fell now at 7 d. and 8 d. the dozen, and other articles in pro-
jportion. The price of labour is riling lb fait, that it may be (kid not to be fet,
tied atprefent.
bfCuBeit. 15*
Scotch acred, about Culleh, add in their other eftirtes itl the
counties of Banff and Moray j and, if we allow 4000 $!arits,
As ufual, for every Scotch acre, the mimber originally plant-
ed, will exceed the amazing fum of 32,000,000 of trees. All
thefe plantations, which at firft were generally planted with
Common firs, have been, with great Care and rfttentroir, pro*
£erly filled up with larch, and great variety df hard wood
plants, fuited to the different foils ; and* all this upon ground
which never returned one farthing of rent to the proprietor.
For the encouragetnent of thofe who have wafte ground fit
for planting, t (hall beg leave to quote the following curious
paragraph, from an account before me, attefted by Mr. George
Brown, furveyor of land at Elgin, arid feftbr to Lord Find*
later there. " To fiiow in fome degree the value if Lord
Findlatef *s plantations, and the Very rapid progrefs they make
in this country near Elgin, there was a good deal cut out of
one plantation of common firs, to muke todfci for rtior e fau
luable and ufeful trees ; many of thofe cut out nidtftrred of
girth 2 feet io inches and 3 feet, and fold at 3d. Sterling th#
tree, and, in general, when fawn down the middle, are large
Enough for paleitag and other ufes.' Thk » 4 fingulaf in-
ftknee of Wood duly planted 18 years, and QtoWs theg*ettt
Wealth that will accumulate from thofe plantations.*
Mountains. — Thdre is dnly one rematfablS mountain caHed
the Bin-hill ; it has two tops, the orfe higher thin the other,
it lies about a: mile S. W. of the town of Gvfflen, about two
miles from the fea, and ferves as a land-mark to the fiiher*.
Its elevation above the fea is faid to be from rooo to 11 00
feet. It was formerly coveted with heath, but is now jflftnt*
fed with trees.
CharaRer of the Pfplc— The people, in general, tat fobef
and
i$z Statiftical Account
and induftrious. They enjoy a reafonaUe Autre of die com*
forts of life, and feem ftroagly Attached to the place of their
abode. They have long been remarkable for their charitable
difpofition, not only to their poor neighbours, but alfo to
ftrangers. They live peaceably with one another. In proof
of this, although they have town-courts at their door, and
the iheriff-court within 8 miles of them, these is hardly fuel*
a thing as a law-f uit heard of among them.
Advantages and DiJ advantages. — The town of CuUen, by
its fituation, has many advantages. It lies on the poft road,
which is kept in good repair. It has, in general, good fchools.
It has the advantage and accommodation of a poft-office, a
pretty good butcher market, plenty of all the neceflaries of
life fupplied from a rich country^ on the one hand, and an "
ample fupply of all kinds of fifli from the fca, on the other,
with command of plenty of mofs for fuel. The, difed van-
tages are, a fcanty fupply of good water. There is not a
goodfpring in the pariih of Cullen but one, and that lies
without the town. To the burn of Cullen, there is accefs
only at two places, end there the roads are fo fteep, that it is
difficult to carry up water. The only fupply, is a oiftern in
the centre of the town, where water is brought in leaden
pipes from the annexed part of the pariih of Itathven. To
accommodate the town properly, they would need at leaff
other two cifterns. The houfes, in general, though cheap
rented, are mean and bad ; and moft of them being placed
with their ends to the ftreet, it offends the eye of die tra-
veller. If Lord Findlater were either to lock up his moffes,
or to alter the roads, and thereby render them more diftanv
the inhabitants would foon be obliged to remove, except his
Lordihip were pleafed to make a harbour for fhips to brings
coal, which would be far preferable to their prefent fijel. If
* % it
Of Cullen, 153
it were agreeable to his Lordfliip to erefi better houfes, and to
build a harbour at the fiiore, which it is believed, wauld not
be attended with a great expenfe, Cullen would perhaps be
one of the mod comfortable and convenient places in the
north of Scotland to live in.
#
Antiquities. — At the north end of the town of Cullen, there
is a beautiful green hill, called the Caftle-hill, hanging over
the fea, which before the ufe of cannon, was extremely well
fituated for a place of ftrength, being inacceffible from the
north by an ahnoft perpendicular high rock, and having a
deep ditch in all other dire&ions fox its defence. There is no
record concerning it, when, or by whom built^ or when de-
stroyed ; but it is evident from the calcined ftones dug every
where, that it has been deftroyed by fire. And the only tra-
jdition concerning it is, that the town of Cullen lay at the
eaft fide of it, and when an enemy appeared, the inhabitants
parried their moft valuable effects into the caftle for protec-
tion ; but when the caftle wa? burned, that the inhabitants
remoyed to the prefent fituation of the town, to be under the
protection of the conftable at Cullen .houfe, the refidence of
the Earl of Findlater. Near Cullen houfe, there is the veflige
of a houfe, in which, it is faid, Queen Elizabeth, Queen of
King Robert Bruce died. In the annexed part of the pariflx
of Rathven, there is the ruin of a chapel at Farikanc, upon
the fea bank, which is fuppofed to have been . a Chapel of
Eafe in the parifh of Rathven, and worihip was probably per*
formed there by the clergymen from CuHen.
* Royal Deaths. — It is fomewhat curious, t^at fo far
Vol. XII. U north
* With regard to the death of Io^ulfus, tbert is no doubt. The accounts
given of it by Buchapan, aod Abercrombie in h» Martial Achievements, agree
perfectly
1^4 Statljlical Account
riorth as Cullen, in Lord Findlater's eftate, a King an4
Queen of Scotland fhoqld bave died, namely, King Indul-
fus,
perfectly with the then fituation of the country : That the King having pre-
vented the Danes from landing at the Frith of Forth, at the Tar, and Aber-
deen, upon being informed that they had unexpectedly landed at Cullen/ batt-
ened forward with his army, attacked and totally routed them, and made them,
fly to their fliips ; but hearing that there (till remained a fmajl body of them
together at the fide of a wood, he raflily ruflicd forward with a handful of men,
and attacked them, where he fell fighting valiantly in defence of the liberty of
fris country. Upon the place where the King fell, there was, as ufual, a huge
cairn of ftonea collected, which, to this day, is called the King's Cairn. It
lies a mile weft from Cullen houfe, in the annexed part of the parifli of Rath-
ven. The ground which was formerly an open moor fit for a field of battle, is
now covered with fine trees, and around the cairn there are about 3 acres of
ground enclofed, and ufed as a nurfery for raiting young trees. A great many
pf the Hones of the cairn were ufed for this enclofure, but the remainder of the
cairn is as yet very diftinct. Whether the body of King Indulfus was buried
under this cairn, or whether, according to the Scoti-chronicon, it was carried
to the Bland of Calumb Kill or Jona, I fliall not pretend to judge ; but it would
certainly be worth while to examine the bottom of the cairn, to know whether
there is-any urn or ftone coffin in it, according to the cuftom of our anceftors in
thofe days. With regard to the death of Queen Elizabeth, the writer aflerts
nothing pofitively ; but he thinks it proper to mention the circumftances that
have come to his knowledge, which at leaft make the matter appear probable.
In the 1 ft place, The tradition mentioned above, concerning the houfe in which
Queen Elizabeth is faid to have died, is very diftinct in the place. But what
tends to confirm this j zdly, From the charter of the town of Cullen, a copy
of which is before the writer, it appears, " That Robert of Bruce, King of the
Scotch, granted and gave in gift for ever, 5 L of the money of the kingdom
(that is, 8 s. and 4fL Sterling) for the fupport of a chaplain in the parifh church
of the bleffed Wary of our burgh of Cullen, always to pray for the falvation of
the foul of the moft ferene Princefs Queen Elizabeth, confort of the fame King
Robert." And, $dlyt There is a tradition that Queen Elizabeth's bowels are
erded, that is, buried in our Lady Kirk of Cullen. Now, it tnay be alked, if
the Queen had not died in Cullen, what could have given rife to thefe diftinct
traditions, and particularly, why would her huiband have endowed a chaplain
to pray for the falvation of her foul in the church of Cullen ? But the great
c^eftipn is, what coulji have brought Queen Elizabeth to Cullen ? The moft
probable
Of CuUem i£$
fiiS) and Qtt<5en Elizabeth, fecond Qneen of King Robert
ferucei
Us N U M*
probable anfwer to this Is, that as (he had a daughter married to the then,
Earl of Sutherland, (he had come upon a vifit to her daughter. And as
the family of Sutherland had then confiderable property in the Boyn and Enzie,
probably fome friend of that family lived in this houfe, where the Queen is
faid to hare died. Whether the burying' her bowels in the church implies the
burial of the whole body, or whether the bowels only were interred in Cullen,
I mall not take upon me to determine j but I never heard of any other place fbf
her iatermcnb
1 56 Statiflical Account
NUMBER XIV.
PARISH of OLRICK.
(County of Caithness, Synod of Sutherland and Caitb*
ness, Presbytery of Caithness.)
By the Rev. Mr. George Mackenzie.
Name, Extent, General appearance, \£c.
OLRICK is unqucftionably of Norwegian derivation. It
may be interpreted, " the fon of Erick," in allufion to
an eftablifhment made by fome illuftrious chief of that name
on this part of the coaft. Thte invafion, which feems to have
been general along the £• and N. of Caithnefs, is fuppofed to
have taken place about the end of the 8th, or the beginning
of the 9th century. The length of the parifh from N. W. to
S. E. may be reckoned 4 roeafured miles ; and its breadth,
at a medium, a, or fome what lefs. The parifh may be faid
to be neither mountainous nor plain. The uncultivated parts
are wholly green, and equally clear both of heath and rock.
In the Southern parts of it, a number of green tumuli, or little
htll*,
Of Olrick. 157
tills, form themfelves into the fliape of three extended amphi-
theatres, interfered by a multiplicity of vallies and rivulets,
affording the moft luxuriant pafturage for cattle in the fum-
mer months, and natural hay for their fupport in winter.
Towards the fea, the whole is one continued track of rich
cultivated foil. Mofs is not very abundant in the parifh ;
and the want of good peat-fuel may be reckoned one of the
greateft inconveniences which the inhabitants labour under;
Along the fea-coaft, and towards the rifing grounds, the air
is pure and healthy 5 but from the fwamps abounding in the
hollows, and the infalubrious vapours they emit, all the com-
plaints arifing from obftru&ed perfpiration, are not unfrequent
among the inhabitants. It is much to be regretted, that great-
er exertions are not made for the draining of thefe marines ;
for, independent of the influence of fuch operations in melior-
ating the air and climate, and thereby confulting the health of
the people, the marl to be found in them for the purpofes of
agriculture, would amply compenfate the expenfe of the work*
The loch of Duran, in particular, calls for an exertion of this
fort ; it is the only one in the parifli, and is nearly 3 miles in
circumference ; a part of it was drained fome years ago, by a
former proprietor, and bog-hay, as it is called, now grows
in great abundance, where pool and putrefaction heretofore
prevailed. The outlet to the fea is of eafy operation 5 and by
continued exertions, it is not to be doubted but this expanfb
of water might, in a few years, be reduced to a fmall rivulet*
and the foil it now occupies rendered as productive as any
part of the parifh.
Soil and Produce.— -The foil, in general, along the coaft,
and in the flat parts of the parifli, is a deep clay, with here
and there a little intermixture of fand and till. Remote from
the coaft, the foil is lighter, and lefs produ&ive, and more cal-
culated
i$8 Statiftical Actount
culated for pafture than cropping. The ftaple produce of the
parifh is bear, oats, and potatoes. Flax heretofore was raifed,
thongh but in fmall quantities, from the extreme difficulty of
manufacturing it through the want of mills. As this incon-
veniency is now completely remedied, and as the foil is na-
turally favourable to the rearing of this valuable article, it is
expe&ed, from the induftry of the inhabitants, and the en-
couragement and countenance they daily meet with from one
of the principal proprietors *, that this branch of hu&andry
will foon turn to a very great account in this place.
The oats in this parifh are in fuch estimation, as to be
bought for feed throughout the country ; a diftindion folely
owing to the quality of the foil, which is peculiarly adapted
to this fpecies of grain. The bear is alfo comparatively good,
weighing from 16 to x8 ftone the boll. The whole produce
of the pariih may be at lead reckoned 7000 bolls meal and
bear, and the average export about 4000 bolls. Marl and
fea-weed are chiefly ufed as manures, and are found in great
abundance, and without much expenfe of labour*
Agriculture. — There are perhaps few parifhes in the N.
which have of late made more commendable exertions in agri-
cultural improvements, than the pariih of Olrick. On the
.eftate of Caftlehill, the property of Mr. Traill, a rotation of
crops among the tenantry begins to prevail. The following
is an account of the improvements made on a fmall farm on
.this eftate, occupied by one Donald Coghill. The rent of
the farm is 20 1. Sterling. In fpring 1791, he laid down 3*
acres under rye.grafs and clover, from which he raifed 809
ftone
• The gentleman bete alluded to, is Mr. Traill of Hobbeftef, (heriff-depufe
of the comity, who has lately got ere&ed a lint-mill, a barley-Mill, and corn-mill
of the beft eonftru&ion, and has alfo a threflung-machine, air excepting the lint*
mill,»OTedby one wheel, and driven by tie fame dream.
Of OlricL tjg
ftotke weight of *hay in autumn 179a, which he could have
fold on the field for 6d. the (lone weight. In fpring 1792*
he laid down under rye-grafs and clover, 3 acres ; under tur-
nip, i of an acre ; under potatoes, 1 acre, and had 2 acres in
•fallow. From the advantages already reaped, he is determi-
ned to perfevere in this mode of managing his fai m ; and o~
thers are preparing to follow his example. Draining, ditch*
ing, and enclofing are carried on with fpiric in this part of
the parish ; this is entirely owing to the granting of fuch
leafes as give the farmer the profpect of enjoying the fruits
of his induftry : Befides, the proprietor a&s in every refpeft
more as the father than matter of the people under him. He
farms himfelf to a large extent ; and his returns are anfwer-
able to his attention and induftry. Another farm on his e-
ftate, occupied by Mr. Jolly, minifter of Punnet, is in a date
equally flourifliing and refpe&able with his owij. Mr, Traill
has alfo made, and is now making very laudable exertions in
plantations, on a flieltcred part of his eflate, nor, as yet, has
he any reafon to repent of his attention to this important ob*
}t&.
It is unneceflary to defcend to much minutenefc as to live
flock, when it can be afferted with truth, that the black cattle
reared in the parifh are not adequate to the culture of the foil.
As to horfes, an import above what are reared, is neceflary e-
very year. The number of fheep, valuable neither for their
wool nor flefh, may be from 7200 to 1500. There is a great
number of fwine reared, of a fmall fize, but peculiarly deli-
cate, when well fattened $ they are generally bought up by
bntchers in the parifh, and fold in the weekly market at Thur*
fo. The real rent of the parifli is about 90c 1. Sterling.
Population, &c — According to Dr. Webfter's report, the
pumber of fouls then was 875* The number of inhabitants
at
p£o
Statiftical Account
at prefent, is precifely loex, of which 464 arc males, *n4
C37 females* There is nothing noticeable as to their longe-
vity ; nor does it appear that they have been much on the in*
creafe or decreafe for a number of years back.
Marriages, Births and Deaths, for the loft lyearu
1786
Maik'ia^tS.
Birthi.
Deaths.
3
30
16
1787
6
29
*4
1788
J
l6
4
1789
4
a3 .
6
1790
7
3»
8
1791
., ? 1
21
12
The inhabitants are, in general, a fober, civilized, induftri*
oiis, honeft people, and regular attentats on divine worihip.
Theft may be faid to be unknown among them ; a few, and
but a few, from particular modes of living, are fom^what ad«
'di&ed to excefs in drinking.
Ecclefiaflical State, Stipend, School, Poor. — The religion is
that of the Eftabliflied Church, with a few Seceders, who at-
tend a preacher of that; perfuafion in the town of Thurfo.
Thefe, in number, are not above 12, and are nowifenbify nor
uncharitable in the fupport or propagation of their own te.
nets. Unlefs it be that notions of witchcraft arc not wholly
eradicated from the minds of fome weak and ignorant perfons,
fuperftition of any fort has little or no hold of them. The
Tcitk feems to have been built in 1633 ; it has been frequently
repaired lince, and will, in a very fiiort time, require another
confiderable repair, or be built anew. The manfe and offices
are entitely new, and fully adequate to the minifter's accom-
1 modation.
Of Olrid. l£i
fnodation. T* he (Upend principally cohfiSs of visual, and
inay be reckoned worth 68 1. Sterling, befides a gUbe of 8
acres land of tolerably good foil. Mils Scott of Scotftanret
is patrdnefs.— There is at parochial fcbool in the place, with
a falary of 9 1. Sterling, befideg clerk fees, fchool dues, and pa-
riQt emoluments There are fom6 private fchools in the re-
mote carriers of the pariffi, fiipported by the people, whofe
children are unable to travel to the parifh fchool. There are
nofociety fchools in the place. — There are no feffion funda-for
the fnppoft of the poor, excepting the Sunday's colle&ions,
which may amount to 81* Sterling a-y£ar j jet from the cha-
ritable fifpofition of the peopfte, the poor, though fometimta
numerous, are trot left a pfcey to the hardfiiips of their lou
M&rkitt* kiftotftifiii Pur0~fEbt life tit coaft belong-
ing to' this parifh» beginning at Stangergel, and ending a lit*
tie beyond the boufe of Murkle, is not mora than a Englifh
miles from £. to W. The coaft is rugged and (helvy, but
not bold. At the extremities of this" line ire the Bays of
Durihet and Murkle (the latter of which belongs Wholly to
this pariQN), and are the receptacles of the greateft abundance
of fea-tfare in the winter tad fpring nfonths* From 15 to ao
tons of kelp are made yearly. Confiderable quantities of fifh
ate caught in thefe bays. In foffle years to,ooo cod and ling
Have been dried in the cotfrfe of one fammer at Murkle ; and
between Jo and 80 barrel* of orad-fiJh have teen caught in the
winter feafcta. Every other fpecies of fifli peculiar to the
country, abounds there. The bay of Murkle merits a parti-
cular defcription in the maritime account of this pariih. It
i* believed, that, were it better known, it would be in higUer
tftimation, and fnore frequented by feafating people, from the
ihelter it can now afford, and the additional' (belter it might,
*t 00 great expenfe be made to afford to vtffels in diftrefe, or
V«.XIL X setatde*
1 6 z. Statiftical Account
retarded rn their progrefs by wind or tide* Murkle Bay is>
in fa£t, within the Bay of Dunnet, and is, on that account,
pofleffed of additional tranquillity, from its connexion with
the latter, and farther removed from their ftormy affociate>
(he Pentland Frith, with which both are connected. In Dun-
net Bay, however, befides the anchoxing ground, the preflure
of both wind and fea into it, is often fo great, that a veflel
runs the rifk oC unavoidable deiiruclidn, by entering, it. In
Murkle Bay, the anchoring ground is a blue tenacious clay,
and has the character from feamen of being as good as is to
be found in mod places. The bay extends inland from Dun-
pet Bay about 2000 yards ; its breadth acrofs is about 1 50a
yards. At futy fea it is not lefs than 5 fathom deep, where
veffels anchor, and at low water about 4 fathom ; from the
Shelter it now receives from Holburnhead on the W.f and
from Duunethead on the N., it is believed to be calmer in a
ftornv than any part of the whole coaft. A pier, in confe*.
quence of the immediate vicinity of a quarry, and all requifitc
-materials, might be conftrufted at no confidexable expenfe.
On thefe accounts, it is recommended to the particular notice
,and confideratioif of the friends of navigation, and lovers- of
ttheir country, that the fubject may be further examined, and
.the truth known,
. Afi/wra/f.^-Jliimeftone an,d . f rceitones grey flates of a light
.durable kind, and blue flags, abound in this parifh. The
flags are uncommonly .good, are from 1 to 6 inches thick,
and may be raifcdof alrnoft any extent of fuperficies : they, bear
^re, and,, from trials already made, axe faid to be capable of
Receiving, .a ;.polifh.. little, inferior; to marble. Considerable
.qtjsuitities of thefe flags, have lately, been fent to Aberdeen,
and, they have ^ been found to anfwej the different purpofcs
.ipr which they were^ intended fo welj, that feveral cargoes.of
*. 'them
• Of Olrick. * 163 '
them are to be Gripped from Caftlehill, for that place, in the '
courfe of fummer 1793.
1 .r-.i ...
fierttorSy and* Places of Chief 'Note — The number of heri-",,
tors is 4, Sit Robert Sinclair of 'Murkle, Mr. Traill, Cap-
tain Patrick Sinclair of the Royal Navy, and Mr. Smith of
Olrick. Caftlehill, the fefidence of Mr. Traill, has its name'
from an old caftle, of which fcarcely a veilige is now cBJ-'
cernible. Murkle is "believed to have been originally Mort-
Hill, or the Field of Death, in allufiori to a great battle
fought between the Danes and natives, in which the latter
were victorious. It is alfo added, that the Scottifh chief, on
feeing a large hollow at the head of Murkle Bay filled with
the enemy, called out to his troops to clear the den, which
they did with fuch havock of their invaders, that the place
got the name of Clear-Den or Clairden, which it bears till
this day.
Antiquities— Pi&s houfes are frequent in different parts of
the parifh ; their number may amount to 6 or 7. On the top
of the hill of Olrick, there are evident veftiges of a watch-
tower. From the top of this hill, though of no confiderable
elevation, there is a commanding profpeft of the coafl and
country : From this fpot, owing to the champaign fituation
of the country, the bays of Sandfide, Scrabfter, and Murkle
Dunnet Head, and the hills of C^nifbay, the bays of Fref-
wick and Riest and the caflle of Old Wick, all in Caithnefe,
and fome of the fouth iflands in Orkney, and fome of the
mountainous parts of Sutherland, Strathnaver, Moray, Banff,
and Aberdeen {hires, are under view.
Mifcellaneous Observations. — From the rifing profperity of
the tenantry on the eftate of Caftlehill, owing folely to the
X 2 humane
1 64 Statifikal Account
humane and judicipus condud of the propriejgpr, it w^
greatly to be wiflied that the other heritors, ?q4 erpry Mentor
in Caithnefs, would adopt fimilar measures for the improve^
meat of their eftates, and the happinefs of their people.
While fhort leafes and feudal fervitufe* prevail, thejr mnft
operate as an infurmountable ]bar to every fpeciea of civili^-
tion and improvement. It is now in contemplation to intro-
duce £qxqc little branches of manufacture on the eftate of
Gaftlehi^ which, if got effected, will be of efleutial benefit
to this parifh fin^J Beyond it.
NUftf.
Of St. Vigcans. l&$
NUMBER XV.
f ARI3H of St, VIGEAN5.
{Co wtt of FoRFMt Stood of Ahoos 4*9 Msakv*, Pms*
BTTfiRT OF AfUAEOTQOOKi)
JBJy /** £f*. Mr. Join* Aitjcjh.
ilsW " . Jl
Nam, Church.
THE parifl* of St. Vigeans has, according to tradition,
received its name from a reputed Saint, who is hid to
tave lived before, or during the 12 th century ; for, in that
century the church was built, about the time, or foon after
the ereftion of the abbej of Aberbrothock *. The church
fe
* The plan of the abbey and church of St. Vigeans, is fatd to have been
drawn by the fame architect, whofe grave is (hown to ftrangers in this church-
yard. The above mentioned Saint, is faid to have refided, for fome time, a-
bout 3 miles from the place where the church Hands, at a farm called Grange
of Conan, where the veftiges of his chapel (rill remain, 28 feet long, by 15
broad* A few yards from the chapel, there are 3 or 4 acres of good land for-
merly belonging to it, but long fince become the property of t of the heritors
•f the pariih. The prefent proprietor, fome years ago, enclofed a few falls of
ground
1 66 Statifiical Account
is built in the form of a cathedral, 6o feet long, by 54 over
walls, on a fmall mount, the top of which is about 40 feet
above the level of the circumjacent groimd. The fummit of
the mount is of an elliptical form ; the greateft diameter go-
ing from S. to N., and the length of the church being from
E. to W., there are only about 8, feet- at each corner more
than is fufficient to contain the foundation of the fabric. The
afcent on the W. N. and E. fides of the mount, is exceeding-
ly fteep *. ■ : t. .ft3. .;, .-'•/•
Extent, Surface, Produce, Rent, \§c. — Formerly the ex-
tent of this parifh was confiderably larger than it is at pre-
fent. The town and, abbey of Arbroath belonged to it, till
about the year 1560, when * Arbroath became a diftinft pa-
rifh* But as no legal divifion was ever made, the boundaries
of the 2 parifli.es cannot be exactly afcertained f. The noun*
daries of what is. now reckoned the parifh, may be defcribed
as
ground round the veftiges of the chapel, with a done fence, and planted it.
Within, a few yards of the chapel, there is 1 of the xnoft copious fprings, of ex-
cellent water, in this country, called to this day St. Vigean's well.
* The ihount Teens to be partly natural and partly artificial ; for,' on the S.
fide, when graces are digged, rock appears about 3 feet below the furface; hoi
on the N. fide, there is fine mould for feveral feel deep. There is not, perhaps,
in Scotland, a church fo remarkably fituated. The fmall river Brothock, from
which the neighbouring burgh has its name, runs within a few feet of the £.
fide of the church-yard, and is faid to fignify the " muddy dream,*' as it runs a
great part of its courfe on a muddy and clay bottom. The church is an EogUui
mile diftant from Arbroath northward.
t Perhaps it may be proper to obferve, as an uncommon thing, that the S.
fide of the church of Arbroath, for about 10 feet at the E. end, and a few fcer,
on the W., ftands in this parifh, and not many years ago, the minifter and
fchoolmafter of Arbroath refided in it. The eftate of Guynd, in the. parifh of
Carmylie, about 5 miles from St. Vigeans, belonged alfo to this parifh, as ap-
pears from writings belonging to that family, but when it was disjoined, is no\
now known.
Of St.Vigeans. 167
as follows : The weft end of it borders on the fea for about
3 miles from the town .of -Arbroath, to about a quarter of a
mile beyond the fifher»town of- Auchmithy. ; For about a mile
eail of Arbroath, the . coaft is flat, with a fandy- beach \ but
within flood-mark, the bottom confifts of ribbed rocks, vifi-
ble only at low water. At the end of this extended plain,
the coaft rifes abruptly, and becomes high, bold, and rocky,
being the weftern extremity of the rubrum promontorium, or
Red Heao^ which extends to about 3 miles beyond the limits
of the parifli. From the point beyond Auchmithy, to the N.
W. corner of the pariih, the length is about 7 miles, border-
ing for. about. 6 miles on the pariih of Inverkeillor, and 1
mile on the pariih of Carmylie. From the N. W. point to
the S. W. corner, it is about 3 miles along the confines of
the.laft mentioned pariih. From the S. W. point to the -E.,
the length is about 3 miles, lying on the N. fide of the parifh
of Arbirlot, and a part of the country pariih of Arbroath.
JBut this laft line is not fo regular as thofe on the other fides *•
The pariih, properly fo called, is divided into nearly/*
equal parts, E. and W., by the fmall river Brothock. The
E. fide is by far the beft foil, and the moft favourable cli-
mate, and consequently the moft fruitful. » From the river
Brothock, the ground rifes gently for a mile towards' the E.,*
to the top of a hill called Dirkmountlaw, and afterward
Hopes in the fame gradual manner towards the fea, where the
.coaft is about ico feet above the level. of the wat6r. .On the
W.fide,
* Betides the extent comprehended within the above limits, there are *
eftates entirely detached from this part of the parifh, and alio from one another.
-One called HofpitalHeld, fo, called from being the place where .the hofpit*! for
the fick of the Abbey of Arbroath flood, lying a mile W. from the burgh w ajid
divided from this parifh by the burgh ror.ds of faid tcn'n. The other eftatc,
called InvcrJ>cfforf lies about 4 miles from St. Vigeans, \ras formerly the feat
.•of the Fletchers, now of-Saltcn, and purchafed by the family of Fammiir fome
•time in the laft ccnturv.
i$8 Siatifiitai Account
W. fide; the ground lifts ftiH more gradually for about £
miles weftward, till it reaches rke futftmit of Craagt of Co-
nan bill, where the parHh borders on Carer/lie. The f eft of
the parifh may be faid to be pretty flat, ^mfc a few gentW
elevations in (Efferent places.
There is no map of the parffe ; but by a pretty exaft te-
veftigation, aided by information from the proprietors and
farmers, it is found to contain about £385 Scotch acred,* in-
truding the 1 detached eftates above mentioned; £355 acre*
of wHcit are arable, of which 1334 acres are enclofed, th'fc"
greater ffrt with ditch; and the reft with hedge and ditch ?
1359 acta enclofed with flone fences ; i jtf acre* planted,
ehiefly with Scotch firs 5 780 acres of moor, of Which tfcerh
art stbeve 300 acres under improvement alreadfy, andrnorfc
will loon be taken in for cultivation j and, it h thought, thai
in a few years there will be no moor remaining in the pirlflf.
The number of enclofed acres will appear mot a furprifing^
when it is obferved, that in the year 1754, there wtfe not
40 acres, gardens excepted, enclofed in the parifli.
There are, in die parifli, 138 carts, 300 horfes, 132 plough^
1633 black cattle, 510 flieep, a few of which are of Engfcfl*
Breed, and 30 fwine. There are about 127 bolls of peafe
fown yearly in the parifh ; 140 bolls wheat; 976 bolls barley
and common bear ; 1578 bolls of oats. The yearly returns,
at an average, may be 9 of wheat, 5 or 6 of oats, and 7 or
8 of barley. But perhaps this calculation may be rather
high for the W. fide of the parifli j but, it is thought, the E.
fide will make up the deficiency. The valued rent of the'
parifli is 8*991. 6s. 8d. Scots, which is the higheft valuation
of ft country parifli in this county, and the real rent about
6000 guineas \ the number of proprietors* about 40 ; the
feuars fome hundreds. The higheft valuation of any heritor
if xaooL Scots, and the loweft »L Scots, Ten heritors 20-
fido
Of St.Vigtans. i6g
fide in the parifh. One heritor keeps a 2 wheeled carriage j
but there is not a 4 wheeled chaife belonging to any heritor
refiding. Moil of the eftates in this pariih belonged former-
ly to the Abbacy of Arbroath, and were fold by Cardinal
Beaton;
Soil, &c— The foil, as may be fuppofed in fuch an extent;
Varies very much. In fome parts of the pari fa, it confifts of
fine loam of a brownifh colour, many inches deep ; lying, in
fome places, on clay, in others, on a fandy bottom, coarfe
grave], or fand and clay intermixed* In others, it confifte of
a black infipid loam on clay ; and this clay, in fome places, is
fo compact and impenetrable, that by the rain-water lying on
or near the furface, a great part of the winter, the manure
laid on it is much weakened, and, in fome feafons, fails con-
fiderably of its effeft. This laft, is the cafe with what has
been formerly moor, and not fo early brought into cultiva-
tion as other parts of the pariih. There is, in fome places of
the pariih, very fine foil, and pretty deep, lying on extenfive
beds of ftone. There is, in general, a large extent of good
foil, capable of producing any crop raifed in Scotland ; and
alfo, a confiderable quantity of ground that will require no
little attention and induftry from the farmer, before it can
repay the expenfe bellowed upon it. But the fpirit of in-
duftry that has of late pervaded almoft the Whole heritors
and tenants here, has produced an amazing alteration upon
the foil, furface, and appearance of the pariih ; fo that in
many farms, there is not a fingle acre uncultivated ; and if
the fame fpirit fliall continue, it is fuppofed, that in a few
years the whole extent of the parifh Will be under cultiva-^
tion. It is generally allowed here, that the railing of the
rents in this diftriS, has, among other caufes* contributed to
the a&ivity, attention, and induftry of the farmers; who have
Vol. XII. Y of
1 jo Statifiical Account
of late been roufed from that torpid Hate and infignificant
rank thej formerly held in fociety, and are become, in this
part of the country, an acute, fenfible, and intelligent fet of
men, capable of converting, and being in company with per-
fons of fuperior rank, and able to give advice and inftru&ion
to thofe who wifh to apply themfelves to the cultivation of
the country. Confidering the fmall advantages, which many
of them enjoy, for the improvement of their minds, it may
be queftioned, if there is any rank of men in fociety that
has fo rapidly emerged from ignorance, inattention to bufi-
nefs, and rudenefs of manners, as they have done in a few
years ; and by confequence they have become entitled to all
the efteem and encouragement that is in the power of the
landed intereft to confer upon them ; for, on their fkill and
labour, under providence, the very exiftence of fociety de-
pends.
In fome eftates in this pariih, a variety of fervices are re-
quired, fuch as ploughing, reaping, making hay, carrying-
coals from Arbroath, kain fowls, Sec. ; in other eftates no
kind of fervices are demanded. There are but a few farms
that are exempted from aftri&ion to mills ; the multures pay-
able to Jpme mills are high, to others moderate. There are
4 meal mills, x flour mill, 2 barley mills, 2 malt mills, z
mill for waihing yarn, 1 mil] with 8 ftamps for beating yam
When dry, and 1 waulk mill, all going by water. There is'
a bleachfield, where about 1000 fpindles of yarn, and about
5500 yards of linen are bleached annually.
Pillage of Aucbmitby. — Auchmithy is a fmall village fitu-
ated about 3 miles eaftward from the church, on ground ele-
vated about 100 feet above the level of the fea, the defcent
to which is rough, fteep, and rocky. It contains 180 peo-
ple of all ages. The men are generally employed in fflhing.
They
Of St. Vigeans. 171
They have 6 boats, value about 120L, with 5 or 6 men to
each boat* The people of that place are become fober and
iaduftrious, and much civilized in their manners within 30
years pail. Thej find a ready market for their fifh in the
neighbouring diftrid, but efpecially in the town of Arbroath*
which qlone would confume ten times the quantity they
catch*. There is no harbour at Auchmithy, and from thp
number of rocks lying near the place where the boats land,
it would be very difficult and expenfive to make one. When
the boats come in from fifbing, they are drawn out on the
beach above reach of high water. The value of what they
call great line*, is about il. 53. Sterling, and of the fmatt
lines half-a-guinea, and their creels for catching lobfters 25.
In 179a, there were about 16,000 lobfters taken there, at 3d.
a-piece, the whole of which almoft were fent to London. The
property of the village belongs to the Earl of Northefk, who
allows ground to the filters for houfes, at the yearly rent of
from is. 6d. to 3s. 6d. the houfe. The fifhers build their
houfes on their own expenfes. His Lordflup draws the tithes
of the fifh, which are juft now let at 4I. 10s. Sterling a-year,
and 7 years ago at 81, The fiflting at that place appears to
have been in a declining ftate for fome years paft. The Earl
of Northefk has lately caufed a cart road to be made from the
village down to the beach, about 12 or 14 feet wide, for the
Y a conveniency
• The fin* 011 this part of the coaft, are cod, ling, fkate, mackerel, -hollybut,
liere called torbot, fea-dog, fome turbot, called bannakfluke, and haddocks, few
of which have been got here for the laft 4 years ; whitings and flounders are ta-
ken, lobfters alfo, and crabs in great plenty ; vaft numbers of feals formerly fre-
quented the rocks along this coaft, lying in hundreds together, but few of them
have been obferved for fome time paft. For fome years, the price of fifh has
rifen here very much. In 1 7 54, and feveral years afterward, haddocks fold
here for ad. 3d. and 4 A. the dozen, of late, they have coft 10 d. and Is. a-piece,
and fometimes ctnfiderably higher. The price of other kinds of fiih is ftfll
moderate.
% 7* Stati/tical Aecount
convenience of the inhabitants, though it is reckoned rather
fteep for a carriage *• In Auchmithy, as perhaps in moll
fiflung villages, the accent of the inhabitants differs remark*
ably from that of their neighbours, even to fuch a degree,
that the writer of this can eafily diftinguifli the voice of any
perfon belonging to that village, though fpeaking in a difr
ferent room.
Stipend, School, He. — The (Upend, by a decreet as old as
the year 1635, is 11 bolls and 1 firlot of wheat, 47 bolls, 3
firlots, 1 peck, 3 lippies, and f of a lippie of bear, and 89
bolls and z firlot meal, at 7 ftones the boll, equal to 70 bolls,
3 firlots, and 2 lippies, at 8 ftones the boll, and 7L 17 s. nijd.
Sterling vicarage ; but there is no allowance in the decreet
for theexpenfes of communion elements f. The church con-
fains
* Thi* place was burnt down by fome fifl^ermen in the end of the laft cen-
tury. In digging the floor of a houfe in Auchmithy, a few years ago, in order
to erect a partition wall, 33 coins were found in a ftnall earthen pitcher, fome
of Henry IV. of France, others of feveral German Princes, the reft of Charles
JJ. and William the III- Some of $< pieces were pf a fquare form. About
iS miles fouthward from Auchmithy, in the German ocean, there is a large
rock about half an EngHih mile long, and one quarter broad, vifible at low
water, where large cod are caught. Tradition relates, that in the toft century
there was a bell erected there on pillars of wood, and a machine fa contrived,
as to make the bell ring with little wind ; that a Dutch matter of a fhip re*,
moved the pell, and that the next time he vifited the place, his flup was
wrecked.
t The decreet makes the te^nds payable ipfa, corpora and It is not known
when the above converfion was made. At the date of the decreet, James
Marquis of Hamilton is mentioned as titular of ttye tein4s of the faid parochine,
and the ftipend is faid to be given in full contentment and fatisfa&ion to the
faid minifter and his fuccefibrs, of any farther prpvifion which they, or cither of
them, might claim thereafter, from Patrick Archbilhop of Glafgow, out of the
penficra granted to him out of the rents of the Abbey of Aberbrothock. This
was Patrick Lindfay, of the family of Edzell, in this county, who was fettle^
muiiiUj
Of St. Vigeani. 173
tains about ieoo people, but bow not half- fufficient for the
accommodation of the greatly increafed number of parifhion-
ers t- The glebe, of about 6 acres, is one of the worft in
the count j ; the manfe was built in 1663, has been feveral
times
minifter of St. Vigeans in 1 5 14, was depofcd by the Affembly in 1638, and is
faid to have died at Newcaftle in 1644. It may be proper to mention, as per-
haps a lingular cafe, that a part of the ftipend, amounting to 3$ bolls of victual
of different kinds, oat of an eftate in the parifh, is mentioned in the reddendo of
the proprietor's charter from, the Crown, as payable by him to the minifter of
St. Vigeans.
f Patronage of the Pari/b.— The patronage of the church belongs to the
Crown, and is one of 54 that were in the gift of the Abbacy of Arbroath, All
theie devolved to the Crown at the Reformation, and, it is faid, were afterward
gifted to the family of Dyfart, and were bought from that family in the laft cen-
tury by Patrick firft Earl of Panmuir, and forfeited to the Crown, along with
th ejeftate, in 171 5, by James Earl of Panmuir; the eftate was fold by the Crown
in 1 7 1 7, to the York-building Company, but the Crown retained the patronages.
In the times of Popery, public worfhip was generally performed in the church
of St. Vigeans, by a Monk fent out from the Abbey, who was allowed the vi-
carage, tithes, which were then paid ipfa corpora, for his falary. The Abbots ~
referved to themfelves the parfonage-tithes ; and this cuftom, it is faid, prevailed
in all the churches belonging to the Abbacy. Tradition relates, that the laft
Monk who officiated here, was one of the name of Turnbull ; and in the year
7754; pa** °* tnc ^oor' °f 2 r°o™s in the fteeplc, faid to be poflefTed by him, re-
mained. He is faid to have been frightened from his chambers by the devil
appearing to him in the fliape of a rat ; and no Monk after him would be per-
fuaded to refide in the fteeple. Such was the ignorance that prevailed in thefe
times. But this foolifh conduct of the Monk will not, perhaps, appear in fuch a
contemptible light, when the following more recent inftancc of ignorance, cre-
dulity and fuperftition, is attended to. From the' year itfop to 1736, the. Sacra-
ment of the Lord*s Supper had never been difpenfed in this church. A tradi-
tion had long prevailed here, that the water-kelpy (what Mr. Hume, in his tra-
gedy of Douglas, calls •• the angry fpirit of the water") carried the (tones for
building the church ; that the foundation of it was fupported upon large bars of
iron ; and that under the fabric there was a lake of great depth. As the admi-
niftration of the facrament had been fo long delayed, the people had brought
themfelves to believe, that the firft time that ordinance fbould be difpenfed, the
church would fink, and the whole people would be carried down and drowned
I74 Statifiical Accvunt
times repaired, and is now much decayed.— The fchoolmafter's
Jioufe is dated, confifts of 4 rooms and 1 clofets 5 and there is
alfo a fchool-houfe of 38 feet long, lately built by contribu-
tion* The falary is 100 1. Scots, which, witlj the dues a-
rifing from his office of feffion-clerk, and from marriages, bap-
tifeas, &c. makes his living worth 30 L Sterling. He has al-
fo a fmall garden. The fcholars are generally about ^50 or
6o9 feme of whom are boarded in the fchoolmafter's houfe.
The fees for reading Englilh are z s.9 for reading and writing
1 8* 6 d., for arithmetic 2 $., and for Latin as. 6 d. the quar-
ter.
Papulation*— According to Dr. Webfter's report, the po-
pulation was 159a. Between the years 1770 and 1780, the
commencement of the increafed pppul^tion of this parifh may
"be dated. For feme years in that period* the increafe was
flow j but fince the year 1780, it has been very rapid, general-
ly above 56 perfons in a year. This increafe has been chief-
ly, if not entirely owing to the flouriihing ftate of manufac-
tures in the town of Arbroath. An eftate, lying in detached
parcels near that town, was fold very lately to feveral per-
fons, who immediately feued out ground to tradefmen, for
houfes and fmall gar4ens. A number of houfes have been al-
ready
in the lake. The belief of this had taken fuch hold of the people's minds, that
on the day the facrament was adminiftered, fome hundreds of the pariihionera
(at on an eminence about 100 yards from the church, expecting every moment
the dreadful cataftrophe. They were happily difappointed ; and this fpirit of
credulity " foon vanilhed, like the bafelefc fabric of a vifion." In the prefent times,
it would prove a matter of great difficulty to make the people believe fuch ab-
fordities. Perhaps the local fituation of St. Vigeans, in the vicinity of the Ab-
bey, might have difpofed the people to imbibe fuch principles as are not eafiiy
rooted out. This much, however, may be faid in' favour of credulity, that it
generally flows from an honeft heart, though, on the other hand, it is fefdom th$
offspring of a weU informed head.
O/St.Vigeanf, ty$
ready built; many are juft now building ; and thefe are occu-
pied moftly by weavers. In fome few farms,- the number of
people has decreafed, particularly In one, where the cottagers
in 17 $4 were 18, and now there is only 1 family in that place*
Jh April 1793, the houfes in this parith were 730, and th$
number of people of all ages is 3336 ; and in that number
there are 6$ females more than males. In 1754, on the lamf
contiguous to the town of Arbroath, there were but xa fami-
lies, by an exafi lid taken by 3 elders, from houfe to houfe,
3 weeks ago, there are inthisparilh, around the town, no lef*
than 1369 perfons of all ages, 669 males and 700 females *•
In the parifh, there are 115 weavers, 40 wrights, 13 fmiths,
22 tailors, 17 mafons, 23 Ihoemakers, 4 coopers, a dyers, 91
ihopkeepefr, if public houfes, the moft part of thefe near
Arbroath, 12 gardeners, za flazdreflers, 2 Haters, 2 bakers,
8 wheelwrights, % midwives, z tan-yard and a tanners. la
the above diftrid near Arbroath, there are a focieties, one of
which takes the name of the St. Vigeans Weaver Society, in-
ftituted
* Baptifms. Marriages. Baptifms.
Males.
Fern.
Total.
17*8 34
*5
59
1788
33
»754
60
1780 50
35
•5
1789
3«
*75S
47
1790 36
3*
74
1790
*4
»75*
53
1791 16
39.
H
1791
33
»757
40
*79* SS
38
93
179a
33
1758
5©
37* x59 *$<*
The avenge number of baptifms for the laft 5 years, is 75 ; but it would
have been greater, if the parents had been more regular in giving in the names
of the children to the parUh-regilter. The baptifms for the year 179s, which
were 93, may be depended on as the eiacl number adminiftered by the Efta-
blHhed minifter, as he baptised none during that period, which were not regif-
tered before baptifou But there may have been about 4 or 5 more baptized
laft year by minifters who are not of the EftablUhment. The average number
of baptifms from 1754 to 2758, both inclufive, is $a There has never been any
regiOer of burials kept in this parifb.
x j6 Statijllcal Ace (ami
flituted in 2787, and governed by a prefes and counfeUort*
chofen annually. This focietj confifts at prefent of 8 J mem-
bers, all weavers ; and ihej admit none but thofe who have
been regularly bred to the bufinefs. The prefes buys from
800 to 1000 bolls of meal yearly, and from 400 to 500 boll*
jq£ coals, all which is given out to the members at 3 or 4
months credit ; this fociety affords 2 s. a-weak to their poor,
which is paid out of the general fund ; and when th^fund
happens to be reduced to a certain fum, their poor are fup-
pliedby a contribution among the members. The other is cal-*
led the Townhead Society, is managed in much the fame man-
ner as the former, but admits members of all occupations,
and has no ftated allowance for their poor, but bellows as
their funds will allow. The chief defign of the eftablifhment
of thefe focieties was for providing coals and meal for the fa-
milies concerned in them, which they are enabled to purchafe
at a cheap rate, by laying in large quantities at proper feafons^
and they find ample credit, by the whole members being
bound for the payment. The members of both focieties fhow
particular attention to the moral character of the perfons they
admit.
It is but doing juftice to the inhabitants of tliefe newly e-
re&ed villages, to obferve, that they are generally fober, and
remarkably induftrious ; by which means the moft part of
them are enabled to live comfortably. By their refidence in
the vicinity of Arbroath, where manufactures are carried on
to a very great extent, they enjoy every advantage for know*
ing the goodnefs and value of the materials they make ufe of,
the method by which they may be beft manufactured, the cha-
racter of the merchants with whom they deal, and when to
embrace the fitted opportunity for difpofing of their goods.
It is proper here to obferve, that the firft manufacturer of
the cloths called Ofnaburghs, in this country, and perhaps in
, Scotland,
Of St. VigcanK . iyj
jJcoilandi was the late Mr* John Wallace, merchant, and fome
time provoft of Arbroath, who began that bufineis about the
jrear 1740; and for many years after that period* all that kind .
of cloth manufactured in this part of the country centered in
his (hop. But now that bufiiiefs has been extended through
ftlmoft every town, village, and pariih in the county, and is
bow carried ori to fuch an extent, that the very large fum of
money brought into this county by that breach of bufinefs^
cannot be eftimated without an infpeclion of the cuftom-houfe
nooks. By information fent die writer of this, from the maf*
ter of the (lamp-office in Arbroath, taken from his books, it
appears, that from November 1791 to November 1792, there
were ftamped 1,055,303 yards of Ofnaburgh and brown linen;
and that one-fourth part of that quantity was manufactured
in this parifli. The value of the above cloth was 39,660 L
6 s. iofd. Sterling. The bounty paid by government is 1 d.
Sterling on each yard of Ofnaburgh valued 6 (L and li d. od
each yatd above 6d. of price.
Rife t* the Dafae 6f land*— The property of many eftates in
this pariih has been frequently transferred fince the year 1754*
One eftate on the W. fide of the pariih, of about 300 acres,
was fold about the above period for leis than 600 1. \ fome
years after that it gave 13001.'; foon after 2300 1. ; after*
wafd for 25001. ; it is jnft riow In the market, and 6000 1.
at lead is expe&ed for it. Another eftate, on the W. fide;
but near Arbroath; confiding of 150 acres, was fold in 1765,
for 2300 1. atid 3 years ago it gave 5800 1. Another eftate^
on the eaft fide, of 363 acres, was fold about 30 years ago for
1260I., foon after for 1400 1. 5 about 3 years ago it gave
40CO guineas* A farm of about 8co acres m the W. fide of
ihe pariih, a part of which is moor, was feued about 20 years
ago, and divided by the proprietors into 2 fa'rms ; the whole
Vox. XII. Z farm
178 Statistical Account
farm paid of rent in 17 $4, and for feveral years after, abowT
70 1. One of the farms was let fome years ago for abovfe
200 1., and the other for 160 1. Another eftate, lying near
Arbroath, in detached parts, was fold about 43 years ago for
1750 L, feyeral years after for 47501., and two years ago fo*
8000 1. in fniall parcels. Another eftate in the E. fide of the
patiQi, was fold in 1765 for 850 L, and a years ago foe
9000L
Crtpi, Ploughs, farmers — There are about 76 farmers ill
the parifli, who pay of yearly rent from a 1. to aool. Of 35
heritors, the number in 1754, only a are aKve; and there 1$
not one farmer tflive in the parifli, and now poffclfedof a farm,
who was a farmer in 1754. Scots ploughs, very neatly made,
and covered with yetKng, are the only kind ufed in this pa-
lift. They are drawn by * horfes, and worked by one roan.
The Writer does not know of a plough drawn by oxen in the
parifli. In fttch variety of foil, difference of climate in the
Ee and W. fides of the parifli, degrees of knowledge and tafte
of the farmers, power of habit, &c. the rotation of cropping
xnuft Be very different. It is thought that the % following
modes are the 010ft common here. When a farmer breaks up
fcy ground, which has not been formerly improved; about 3*
bolls of Kme-fhells are kid upon the acre ; th* fliells are deli-
vered with the barley meafure, the firft crop oats, the fecond
barley, without any manure, the 3d crop oats, the 4th a green
crop, or, according to the condition of the ground, barley with
grafs feeds, and ltes under graft generally 4 fears. Or, they
breakup ley generally at Lammas, lay 00 lime and dung ifor
wheat, id crop oats, 3d crop turnip, and 4th barley, with
grafs-feeds. There are raifed here from 50 to 60 bolls of 1$
Hones Arafteidam weight of potatoes upon the acre, and of
this ufeful root, great quantities are produced in the parifli*
A con-
Of St.Vigeans. 179
A confideraMe quantity of flax is alfo raifed here, generally
the ad crop after breaking up ley ground* 9 or zo pecks of
Riga or Dutch lint- feed are fown on the acre, which produce
from 25 to 30 ftones avoirdupoife weight of drefled flax; rent
of the acre about 5 1. About aoo ftones of hay are raifed on
the acre. For threflnng corns, the farmers allow their barn*
men the aift boll, without any vi&uals, or the 25th, with t
meal a-day. There are now in the parifh 4 or 5 threfliing
machines ; but it will require fome time and experience, be-
fore it is known whether or not they will prove advantageous
to the farmers ; they feem to think that the working of them
is hurtful to their horfes* It is fuppofed that the parifli docs
aot now produce meal fufficient for the coofumption of th#
inhabitants; but there are about 1500 bolls of wheat, an4
between aooo and 3000 bolls of barley fold yearly, the great*
er pfcrt of which is fent to Leith and Glafgow* Turnips art
raifed on almoft every farm ; and fome black cattle are fe4
and fold to the butchers of Arbroath, from 10 L to 14 U th*
head*.
Poor, i$V— There are generally between 20 and 30 poor
perfons, who receive alms from the public fund of the pari(b9
irhich coafifts of an annuity paid out of an eftate in the parifh
Z 2 amounting
• Prictf, Wages% fcfr «-~Day labourers hav$ here from X s. to Z s. 4 d.f ma-
ffps from 1 s, 8 d. to 2 s. and tailors from 6 d. to $ d. a-day ; thefe laft have their
victuals alfo. Ditchers for the rood 6 yards long, 5 feet broad, and J deep, 1 s<
J)ikers {for 36 fquare yards, the ftones laid down to them, from os. to 10 s»
Ploughmen having viituals in the farmer's houfe, from 7 L to p L and 10 L ;
Ploughmen married, have a houfe from the farmer, the fame wages, with 6§
bolls of meal in the year, with a Scotch pint of milk a-day< In place of milk*
fome have a cow maintained by the farmer, and have 5I. wages. Beef from
4 4. to 4$ d. the Dutch pound, and veal 4d.f mutton 44 d. ; fowls 1 s., eggs 3 d.
4 d, 5 d. and 6 d. a 4ozer& Wages arc more than double, and prices iperallj
f* 3 to a, in 1754.
I $4 Stati/tkJ Account
amounting tp 2L 15 s. 6*d. Sterling, mortified by Geprg*
Chaplin, Efq. a native of this country, and feme time mer-
chant in Jamaica ; alfo of the intereft of 83 1. 6$. 8 d. Ster-
ling, at 4-J per cent ; alfo of the intereft of 17 1. Sterling, of
fome feat rents in the church, dues on mortclotbs, proclama-
tions, collodions, and presents, of which laft 15 1. Sterling hai
Wen given at 3 different times, within the laft 3 years, by an
opulent farmer in the parifli. The whole fum arifing annually
from the above articles, will amount to between 6? 1. and 70 K
Sterling ; all which is generally diftributed to the poor with-*
in the year ; and they receive their (hares 00 the laft Sabbatfj
tf every month, from 2 9. to 4 s according to their filiations
and Heceffities. The heritors contribute nothing to their fup*
fort*.
Curioftius, Amtiqukies, tirf.— On the top of a mount of
much the lame height with that on which the church is Stu-
nted* and about r8© yards diredly eaft, there is heard a very,
remarkable echo, proceeding from the £• end of the church*
It repeats very diftin&ly 6, and in a calm evening 8 fyllables,
or
• When the poor are entered upon the roll, they are fuppofed to have give*
up their effects, in the event of their death, to the poor's fund ; but thefe fel-
dom fall to'thc feflion, as there are generally claims offered by relations for at-
tendance, occafional fupply, and the expenfe of burial. There are very few
fagging jjoor In the parifli.
In the parifli there are about 20 perfons of the Church of England, 70 of the
$cotch Epifcopal church, 30 Independents, 35 Method! fls, 40 Seceders, 10 Beie~
ins. The Eftablifhcd Church is generally well attended, ahd the parifbioners
contribute liberally for the fupport of the poor, to the amount of between 10
and 13 s. every Sabbath during the fummer. The difference that prevails here,
and in Arbroath, in religious opinions, appears to have no difagreeable influence
on the minds and manners of the people. However much they may differ in
their fentiments, they aflbciate together, tranfacT: bufinefs, and meet in a facial
and convivial manner, without an inftance almoft of* any injury or perfonal a~
bufc of one another.
r
OfSt.Vigeani. itf
<*r a line of our pfalms in metre, and does not begin to rever-
berate till the voice of the fpeakcr has eeaftd. When th*
(peaker moves a few yards from his firft ftation, % echoes est
fcearu, and, proceeding a little farther, in the (ague direction,
3 echoes are repeated. The form of the ground from the
church to the ftatien of the fpeajter is hollow, and ncarlj
?n the Qiape of a femicircle. — About 3 miles weftwaid
from the church, are feen the veftigea of Caftlegory, or
Caftlegiegory, whet e it is faid th*t Gregory, king ef Scot*
land, refided ; and the names of feveral places in the neigh*
bourboodfeemto (bow, that it had been once a royal residence,
fuch as Grange of Conon, or Koning, Miltown of Conon, and
Park Conon. A proprietor in the periih has informed the
Writer of this, that his houfe was built of the ftones of th»*
caftle in the x6th century. Several flone coffins have been
lately dug np in the pari(h, above 5 feet long, and 3 broad*
and Come earthen jars with attics in them. A deer's horns}
in high preservation, were found a few years ago in a moi%
feme feet below the furfece, with mob above and mail be-
low.
There is a hill called Dick, or Dickmount-law, which ie
{aid, in one of the ftatiftical accounts, to fignify a rampart of
prote&ion or peace. It is about a mile E. of the church, and
teems to have been very much adapted to both the above
mentioned purpofes. On the top of this hill there is a large
fairn, now covered with gnus, and hollow in the middle*
where the baron held his courts. From it there is one of the
moll extenfive profpe&s in this country. There is a view of
the Grampian hills, for more than. 30 miles, the ooaft of Fife
for aboot 18 miles, the Ifle of May, the Lowmonds of Fifty
Largo-law, and the German Ocean for above 50 miles.
, For many years after 1754, agues were fo common in this
parifh, that the incumbent has often feen* in the months o£
March,.
1 81 Staliftlcal Account
March, April and May, and fometimes in autumn, from 15
to a 5 perfons in that diftemper. He does not remember-to
have feen a fingle perfon in the ague for 20 years paft. There
never feems to have been what could be called a lake in the
pariflt ; but as a great part of the ground lies on a clay hot*
torn, and formerly muft have been very wet, it is thought
that this muft have contributed to the prevalence of this dif-
temper. The climate muft, no doubt, now have become
much more healthy by the great number of ditches lately
made here.
There are feveral caves in the rocks, along the W. between
Arbroath and Auchmithy, one of which can be entered only
at low water; When feals abounded on this coaft, it was cuf-
tomary to let people down to this cave with a rope round
their body, to the depth of 40 feet, with ropes of ftraw rol-
led round their legs, and bludgeons in their Hands, in order
to kill feals. There is another, called the Maiden CaflJe cave,
the entry to which is about 10 feet above high water-mark.
The mafon-lodge of Arbroath built a gate to it, and gave it a
door many years ago. They walked in proceffion every year
•n St. John's day from Arbroath to this cave, where they ad-
spitted new members. It is about 231 feet long, and from 1%
to 24 feet broad. At the farther end there is a fpring of fin*
water, but exceedingly cold. Above the cave are the vefti-
ges of a fort, about 100 feet above the level of the fea, and
on the land fide the remains of the fofle and rampart are ftill
vifible. There is another cave, which appears as if it had
been cut out of the face of the rock, the entry to which is a»
bout 40 feet above the fea. It is about ia feet long, jo broad!
and 8 high. The acccfc to it is difficult and dangerous *.
MifctUancou*
• * About a Quarter of a mile weftward from Auchmithy, there it a curious
1 called the gayler, or gayiet-pou It lies ia an arable field, and ia,
x diftao*
. Of St. Ttgtans. 183
Mifcelianeous Ohfervatiotu.—Upon the fide of the fknalt
tiver Brothock, and near the church, a brewery was ereded
in 1787, and in the fame place a diftillery in 1790, both be*
longing to one perfon. The ft ill is 40 gallons, and pays 40 1.
a-year to die Exrife. The diftillery oonfumed 500 bolls of
barley in 179a, when there were a (40 gallon) ft ills; and the
brewery,
dtftant too yards from the front of the rocks that hang oter the fea. The pot
is of the Jhape of an inverted urn, 50 yards in diameter, but towards the weft-
it iofes a part of its circular form, and the ground afcends in a gentler flop than
the other parts of the circle, for 54 yards, till it terminates in an angular point,
at the place where it reaches the level of the adjacent field. The entry to it
from the fea is I30 feet below the top of the rock, and the depth of the pot ii
110 feet, below the level of the ground round the edges of it. The opening
from the fea is grand and awful, being about 70 feet high and 40 broad. The
water from the fea runs into the pot by a fubterraneous paflage, which gradu«
ally contracts till it enters the bottom of the pot, where it docs not exceed 10
or is feet in breadth and height. When the fea is rough, the wind eafterly,
and high water, the boifterous element burfts in at the mouth of the pot, with
amazing impetuofity, and roars, and boils, and froths, till the waves of the fea
fall back, and allow it to retreat, which it does with great violence, and a loud
noife, which, on account of the depth of the cavity, is not heard at any great
diftance.
About halfway between this place and Auchmithy, there is a large excava-
tion in the rocks, in the form of a femicircle, and about 160 feet wide in the
front towards the fea. It has a large pillar of rock* in the middle of the en-
trance, almoft in a line with the rocks on each fide. The extent is fo large,
that a fiming boat with four oars can fail round the pillar, without being in
danger of ftriking on the rock. There was a chapel dedicated to St. Ninian$»
fituated about 2 miles from the church on the fca-£de, near the place where the
coaft begins to rife, between Arbroath and Auchmithy. No veftige of the cha-
pel sow appears, but a part of the burying ground remains, through the middle.
of which a road has been lately cut, and the ends of fevcral coffins of ftone are
vifible. St. Ninians well, near the church-yard, was in former times of great
repute for the cure of fevcral difeafes, but now totally negle&ed. One of the
annuel fain of Arbroath was dedicated to this faint; it (hould be held on the
firft Wednesday after Trinity Sunday, but it is fome time ago fixed the third
Wednesday of June.
1 84 Satiftucl Account
brewery, about 870 boll* the fame year. The brewery payi
between 300!. and 400 1. a-year of excife duty .—There is
nothing uncommon or remarkable in the feature, form, or ap*
pearance, or inhabitants of the parifh. They are generally
from 5 feet 6 inches, to 5 feet 9 inches high \ their fhape and
fize feem to indicate health and ftrength, and in raft, they
poffefs a confiderable fliare of both. There are few 6 feet
high. Several young perfons betake themfelves to a featur-
ing life, and a few to the army. There are fome people in
the parifh from 79 to 84 years of age, and a gentlemen died
fome years ago, each in his 86th year. One Alexander Burns
died fome time fince in the 96th year of his age* On almoft all
the large farms in the parifh, both young men and married
cottagers are employed as fervants. The farnters generally
drefs in a plain manner ; the common colour of their clothdl
is blue ; and many of them ftill wear the Scotch broad bon-
net. The drefs of a number of the men fervants is a little
jhowy, and rather fuperior to that of the females of the
fame rank. Many of the farmers are now accommodated
with good houfes, built of ftone, and dated, and generally of
the fize of ordinary manfes *.
In the W. fide of the parifli, the farmers fow earlier tjian
thofe in the E., yet the corns are generally earlier cut down
in
* Their mode of living is cotifiderably altered fince the year 1754, ftnd yet
fijw of them live up to what they could afford. Their attention to their bufi*
nefs, and their finances, prevents them from going to any excefs in their family
e*pcnfes. In 1754, there were not 3 farmers in the parifh who had half a dosen
knives and forks in their houfes, now thefe implements abound in almoft all
their houfc*. Few of them at that time drank tea, it is now common among
people of inferior ft at ion. There were not then 6 watches among the farmers ;
now many of the men fervants have them, and there are above loo watches
and about So clocks in the parifh. In 1754, it was common for the farmer and
lus wife to eat at the fame table with the fervants ; now they eat in a feparate
*©om.
7,
Of St. Vigtanu 185
ia the E. tftfla i* tfce W. fide— The oldeft record* belonging
t»4te.a]M»tb-leAoiif commence in 1665, when Mr. Strachan
jkU etdained mmiftat bare, by* mandate from tbe Arch-
bi&Dp of St. Andrew**, and they are continued down to the
ytar 1694* From that date, to the year 1717, there are no
record* extant. Since that time they have been regularly
kept.*-Ther* are feveral quarries in the pari£h of a reddifh
eoorfe granite, but featcely any (tones found in the fields that
can be ufed in building. In confequenee of an aft of parlia-
ment 1789, % turnpike roads are making here, and toll-bars
have been eroded about 3 years ago. The one from Ar-
broath to Forfar, paflfes through a part of the parifli on the
W. fide, far about 4 miles/ The other, from Arbroath to
Montrofe, on the E. fide, lor 3 miles. The aft alfo enjoins
a commutation of the ftatute-febour at the rate of 24 s. Ster-
ling for tech 100 1. Scots of valued rent in the county, and
the fum ahfing from the above aflefiment, is appointed to he
laid out on private roads within each refpeftive pariih. The
fum eoBefted out of this pariih for the above purpofe, a-
mounts «e between 90 1. and 100L Sterling— The writer of
this has been told, that in the year 1750, there were" hut &
box carts, or, what is here called coup-carts, in" the pariffi,
but at pretest there is no other kind made ufe of here.^— Tne
only eminent man, that has appeared in this pariih, during
this and a part of the laft century, was Sir James Woc-d of
Bonnington, Colonel of the Scotch Fufifcers, in the reign of
Queen Anne. He ferved in Flanders under the Duke of
Marlborough, and acquired confiderable reputation in his pro-
feffion. Letham, once his feat, is half a mile diftant from the
church.
j&UuintagtSi &c— The advantages which the people of
this pariih enjoy, are many ; and the difadvantages few or
Vol. XII* A a none*
1 86 n Statiftical Account.
none, but fuck as are in their own power to remedy. A
healthy climate, and, in general, a fruitful foil ; no epidemic
cal diftempers prevalent among them, -Coals from Arbroath,
the common fuel, 70 ftones Dutch weight, at 6s. and 6s* 6cL;
but laft winter at 8 s* 6d., when they were (career and dearer
than ever known. Every perfon who choofes to work, finds
immediate encouragement, good wages, and ready payment
for his labour. Every perfon who has. any of the aeeeflaries
of life to difpofe of, finds a ready market* The farmers en-
joy, in moderation, many of the conveniences pf life, and
their married fervants, when they behave honeftly add dif-
creetly, find protection and fupport from their mailers Many
of the tradefmen, particularly the weavers, are in comfort*
able circumftances ; they appear to knew their intercft, and
to attend to it carefully. And people of all rpafa feem to
aim at what is ufeful and fubftantial, rather than what is
ihowy or fuperfluous. Was the writer of this to exprefs
what he believes to be the general fenfe of the people in this.
pariih, with refjped to their fituation and circumftances as
members of fociety, it might be comprehended in the follow*
ing words : " May the bleflings of providence we ft prefent
enjoy, be continued to us ; may the prefent Brittfh conftku*
tion remain unihaken, and may agriculture, manufactures,
and trade flourifli. What remains to complete our temporal
prosperity, depends on our . own activity, diligence, aq4 IHv
4u#ry, Wc want i?o xpore, we wifh po }efs,"
NUM.
Of Kirriemuir. i%j
NUMBER XVI.
PARISH o* KIRRIEMUIR.
(Countt of Forfar, Synod of Angus and Mrarhs, Pres-
bytery of Forfar.)
By the Sfiv. Mr. Thomas Ogilvy.
Naf*t> Extent, Surface, and Soil.
KIRRIEMUIR, comtoonlj pronounced Kellamuir, is*
Gaelic word, and figriifies Maty Kirk. The form of
the parifli is irregular. Its greateft length frofn S. E. to N.
W., is 7 or 8 miles, its leaft 4. The greateft breadth from
S. W. to N* E«, is about 7 miles ; the leaft 6. Hie northern
part, called Glenprofen, from the river Profen which runs
the whole length of it, is bounded on the S. by Kingoldrum;
on the E. and N. by a ridge of mountains which feparates it
from Cortachy and Clova ; and on the W. by another ridge
of mountains which feparates it from Glenifla and Lintrathen.
This glen is about 12 miles long; and, with the traft of
Country which lies along the burn of Lednathie, Glenuig,
Glenlogie, and fome fmaller glens which are comprehended
A a a under
X$8 StatifticalJfmtt
under the general name Glenprofen, may contain 24 or y*
tyiare miles. The face of the country is various. For about
a mile to the N. of the pariflies of Glammis and Forfar, it
is almoft flat. Then it rifes gently about 2 miles more, form-
ing almoft one continued Hoping bank, till within a few hun-
dred yards of the town, which Hands nearly in tjie centre of
the fouthern part of the parilh, and is feparated by a narrow
ralley or den, about 100 feet deep, from the above bank.
To the £. and W. of the town, it is almoft level. The reft
of the parifh is beautifully diverfified with hills, and dales,
rivers, woods, and plains. The hills, however, thofe xa
Glenprofen excepted, are of no great elevation, and are either
cultivated, or planted, or afford tolerable pafture. Glen*
profen is altogether hilly and mountainous. A few of the
hills are covered with grafs, except on their fummits ; and a
few of them are rocky ; but they are, in general, covered
with heath, interfperfed, however,, with innumerable patches
of grafs, probably produced by the many rills which tumble
down their fides. Some of thefc hills are interfered by ri-
vulets which have their fource in the glens formerly men-
tioned ; and in the glens are feveral hundred acnes of ft sjr
mofly ground, partly covered with bent and sough grift*
which afford good pafture for young cattle during the fum*
mer months, as the hills do for fheep. In Glenprofen, the
foil is partly thin and light*, partly mofiy, and, in. general*
wet. In the fouthern part of the parilh, are all kinds o£
foil; but a black mould, on a bottom of mortar, predominated.
This, when dry, produces heavy crops of all kinds of grainy
but being in many places wet and fpongy, the harvcft. is often.
late, and the grain of rather an inferior quality.
Rivtrs, and Woods*— The river Elk, which has it fcwce-
in Clova, forms the N. £• boundary of this parifh for about
a mile*
Of Kirriemuir i8£
3 miles. The Profien takes its rib in the N. W. extremity
of it ; runs the whole length of the glen to which it girt*
name; afterward feparates the pariihes of Cortachy and King*
•Idtum for about a miles ; then Kirriemuir and Cortachy for
about a miles more ; and falls into the Eik near Invemtityt
The Carity has its fource in die parifli of Lintratben j tta*
verfes that and the pariib of Kingoldrum ; and* after a me*
andering courfe of about 4 miles in this parifb, is loft in th*
Eik at Invercarity, to which it gives name. Thefe fiver*
fwarm with fmall trout, which afford excellent fport for the
angler ; and, in the iummer months, a great number of fob*
trout refort to the Eik and Profien. This trout is red, of an
excellent flavour, and by many people preferred to felmon*
Some years ago, falmon were likewife pltnty in the Efk;
but now, owing to the dam-dikes towards the mouth of the
river, their numbers here are inconfiderablc. The Gairie
has it fource about a miles to the W. of die town in the
meadow, formerly the Lake of Kinnordy* After pafSng the
meadow, it glides along a channel cut for it out of iblid redt,
till within 300 or 400 yards of the town. Then, changing its
courfe to the S« E., it defcends into a narrow valley ; and,
in its fall, turns a corn and malt mill, a flax, and a foiling
mills* Dire&ng again its courfe to the E., it meanders a*
long the den, which is of a Terpentine form, about loo yards
to the S* of the townr and 60 feet below the level of the
loweft part of it. At the caftern extremity of the den, which
is about a mile long, it takes a fouthern diredion, and after
beautifying and enriching the parks of Logic, again turns to
the S. E., and, after a courfe of about to miles, which, in a*
direft line, would not exceed 5, falls into the Dean a little to
the E. of Glammis Caftle. Before the Lake of Kinnordy
was drained, in 1740, this was a considerable ftream ; but
now, in a dry fummer, it is fcarcely fufficient to turn a mill.
5 This
x 90 Stattjiical Account
■ This pariih, to the £. of the town, was once a contmtitl
foreft, called Platane.' At prefent there are no woods of great
extent ; though a confiderable quantity both of hard and foft
timber, of all kinds and ages, is interfperfed up and down
the pariih, efpecially on the eftate of Kinnordy, the proprie-
tor of which is giving his feat every embellifhment which
wood can bellow, as well as ornamenting the country, by
planting every piece of wafte ground on his eftate. Mr.
Ogilvy of Clova, has likewife planted, within thefe few
years, 300 acres of Scotch and Larix firs, befides hard wood j
and continues to plant a certain number of acres every year.
There is, befides, in Glenprofen, a confiderable quantity of
natural wood, moftly birch ; and, were it not for the fheep#
it would foon become a foreft, as the upper part of it, which
is ftill called the Foreft of Glenprofen, has evidently been*
Climate, &c. — The climate varies confiderably. The lower
part of the pariih is far more mild and temperate than Glen*
profen, except in the middle of fummer, when, owing to the
reflexion of the fun's beams from the hills, the latter is per*
haps warmer than the former. And, about the boundaries
of the parifhes of Glammis and Forfar, the air is milder
than about the town, and to the northward of it. Scrofula
and confumptions are the mod common diforders ; and we
are fometimes, though rarely, vifited with putrid fevers*
The air is clear and falubrious ; the people rather above the
common fize, well made, ftrong, a&ive, and healthy. The
ague, which is common in the lower parts of Strathmore, is
unknown here ; and, often, whilft Forfar, Glammis, and
Meigle, are enclofed in mill, there is none at Kirriemuir*
There are no inftances of a remarkable longevity j but many
arrive at 80 j and 2 or 3. died lately who were above 90.
Cultivation 9
Of Kirriemuir. tgi
Cultivation, &c.—Part of this parifh was cnclofed man/
years ago, and is in a ftate of high cultivation; and, in every
part of it> improvements are carrjftig on. Such, at prefent,
feems to be the fpirit for improvements in agriculture, both
among the proprietors and tenants, that if they go on for a
few years longer, as they have done for 15 years paft, there
will be little wafte ground in the parifh. What is wet, they
are draining; what is uncultivated and arable* they are bring*
ing into tillage ; what i* not arable, they are planting. Much
has: been done in all thefe ways; and a great deal Mil re-
mains to be done. And here the means of improvement are
to be had in great abundance. The Lake of Eonnordy, which
is completely drained, and the meadows of Logic, which are
not drained, contain an inexhauftible fupply of fine marl.
Jtfer is encouragement wanting to engage; the tenants to ufe itt
For the proprietor of Kinnordy fella it confiderably cheaper
than any other marl in the county ; though* in quality, it is,
by many, reckone4 inferior to none. Accordingly, it is caiw
ried not lefs than 14 miles. The town Ukewife affords *
great deal of jnanure, which, within thefe 3, years, has rifea
from 8d. and od. the cart load, to 16 d. and x8d. This is
a clear proof of the fpirit for improvement ; and, as another,
it may not be improper to mention, that a {mall eftate about
% miles to the N. of the town, fold laft, year at 60 years pur-
chafe, though one half of it is under leaf* for a life, and the
other for 9 or 10 years. Few, if any, leafes are now lee, in
which the tenant is not bound to a regular rotation of crop,
ping ; and thofe who have old leafes, and are not boumi, be*
gin to find it their intereft to follow one. The rotations moft
common are, ill, oats or flax, after ley ; ad, turnip or pota-
toes ; 3d, oats ; 4th, barley with grafs-feeds ; 5th, hay ; 6th,
9 th, and 8th, pafture ; then oats or flax, &c. as before. In-
Head of 3 years, fomc pafture 5 ; and, in place of making
hay
1 ga Stats/Heal Account
htj the firft year of the grafs, fame, are beginning to pafture
that year, . and to cut for hay the fecond. This* they think,
gives them hay of a fuper&r quality, and rye-graft feed in the
greatefl perfe&ion. A few never make any hay for fate ; but
pafture all the years. Inftead of taking only 1 crop of com
after the ley, fome take *. The whole dung of the farm is
laid on with the turnip or potatoes ; and when it is not fuf-
ficient for all the ground allotted for green crop, they fallow*
and fometimes dung and fow wheat m OAober. At pre-
fent, however, wheat' is not a common orop here ; the far-
mers finding that barley i*, in general, more proitable, es-
pecially when the ralue of the turnip is contldcred. Ano-
ther rotation much approved of, when duag can be command-
ed, is, 1 ft, oats' after ley ; ad, turnip or potatoes ; 3d, bar-
ley with graft-feeds $ 4th, hay, or the graft cut green ; 5th,
pafture; 6th, oats* or flax, Sec. as before. Here Kkewife the
dang is laid on with the turnip, Stc, which are always horfc-
hoed. • Another mode of culture predifed here, defcrves to
be mentioned. Mr. Kinlocb of Kilrie, having the command
of the river Oairie, begins, in the month of November, to
flood his enclofores at Logic* and continues to do Co at inter*
pah, till the middle of April, Thefe eoclofures have been in
graft fince the year 1770.; and, in eonfequence of the above
practice, ere now the earlieft aud beft grafs fields in the coun-
ty ; and there is not, perhaps in Scotland, any fiiperior to
ahem. Before the above period, they let at from ies. to i%s.
an acre. Laft feafon, 179a, from $k to 4 1. ies. Sterling the
acrcf.
Neither oats nor barley are raifed in fufficient quantities to
fcpply the consumption of the parith 5 but black catde, lean
and
f SsmJIV plough, with a metal mould-beard, if gettfof into general ufe ; and
ft* farmers are without a roller.
Of Kirriemuir* 193
and fatted ; flieep for the batcher, poultry, butter, cheefe, ho-
ney, wool, and tallow, to a confiderable amount, are annually
exported. The farmers have lately turned their attention to
the breeding of horfes. By cenfequence the breed has been
much improved, and a large fum of money faved the parifli,
which ufed to be fent out of it for that ufeful animal. Thd
moil intelligent of the breeders of {beep have likewife chan-
ged their fyftem ; and, inftead of buying the greateft part of
their dock, when a year old, at the Linton market, as was the
practice fome years ago, they are begun to rear nearly as many
lambs as ferve them* The fheep reared here are altogether
white. They are not fo heavy as the Linton flieep: but their.,
wool is finer, and their mutton of a higher flavour*
Town, Manufactures, &c— Kirriemuir, a burgh of barony ,i
is of confiderable antiquity; but the date of its ere&icn is
here unknown *.
Situated near the foot of the braes of Angus, in a fertile,
extenfive, and populous diftrift, Kirriemuir is the mart to
which the inhabitants of the neighbouring .parilhes chiefly re-
fort. Hence no town in the county has a better weekly mar-
ket ; in none of its fize is more trade carried on. Nine car*
riers go regularly to Dundee twice, and often thrice a-wcek,
Vol, XII. Bb loaded.
• It is, however, certain, that the jurfltficlion of its- bailie wastry great ;t
and, it is faid, extended even over the hill of Dundee. It ftands in a very healthy
and pleafant fituation, partly on a flat, and partly on an inclined plane, on the
S. W. fide of a hill of the fame name, along the northern brow of a beautiful
den, through which runs the fmall river Gairie. In form, it very much refem-
bles an anchor ; that part of it which lies along the deiv, in the level fituation, *
fdrming the arms ; and that which ftands on an inclined plane, the ihank of the
anchor. The profpedr. of the lower part of the town is bounded by the fouthern''
brow of the den ; but from the higher part is feen almoft th6 whole of Strath* -
more.
194 Statiftical Account
loaded with the produce, or manufactures of the 3iftri&, and
bring from thence flax, fugar, tea, porter, rum, and all kinds
of merchant goods; and two come twice a-week from Mon~
trofe. And it is to be obferved, that, thefe carriers feldom
bring coals. The town is fupplied with that article by Dan-
dee carriers, or the farmers in the neighbourhood *. Two
annual fairs are held here, in July and O&ober, for fheep,
horfes, and black cattle ; and for flax, wool, labouring uten-
fils, and houfehold aecefiaries. It contains 49a houfes;. 471
families, 10 brewers, who are ltkewife innkeepers, 12 retail-
ers of foreign fpirits, 3 of wine, about 20 of ale and whifky,
27 merchants, 228 weavers, and 1584 fouls.
Two tan-yards have been eftablilhed here for fome time,
and a third is ere&ing. A diftillery was begun fome months
ago, in a fituation than which none could be better adapted for
thepurpofe; and in building the houfes neceflary for it, tha
proprietor had in view the eftablilhment of a brewery at the
fame place, would a proper perfon be found to undertake it.
About 1200 pair of woes are made annually for exportation;
and the manufacture of coarfe linen is carried on to a very
great extent. Ofoaburgh, fcrim, and birdy, to the amount of
about 38,000 1. Sterling, were manufactured from September
1791 to September 179a* This is. more than was ever be-
fore manufactured in one year, and muft have been owing. to
the flourifhing date of the trade, which was never better than
it is at prefent, December 1792!.
Population.
* It is 16 miles from Dundee, ao from Arbroath, 15 from Brechin, 5 3-4UU
from Forfar, and 5 from Giammis.
f A jouroejman weaver can, with cafe, gain itfcL a-day, and a woman 8 d.
at fpinning. And to fuch perfection have fome of the people here arrived in
this bufinefs, that many women, when they exert themfelves,;can gain ia d. and
even 15 d. a-day $ and % weaver lattJy wrought, on a wager, in 18 hours and
20 minutes,.
* Of Kirriemuir. 195
Ity&aiw*.— -According to Dr. Vfobfter's report, the ftum-
fett of fouls thtn> was 3409. At prcfcnt they amount to be-
ttfefcti 4600 and 500a, Males botti hi 1 792, 68, females 7o,
marriage* 43.
Ecete/taJHcdl State, Stipend, Schools; Poor; &c— It appears
that there were once 4 religious houfes in the parifli, befidesi
the one prtfently ufed as A parifli church, stad the chapel in
Gleaproferi, where the minifter ftill officiates 1 or 3 times a-
Jear*;
B b a Aii
io minutes, a web of bird?, confiding of *i yards, for working which 8 s. Was
then paid. This has greatly railed the price of all kinds of labour. In 178$,
the wages of a labouring man fervent were from 5 L to 7 1. ; of a woman from
it 10s. to 3 1. ; of a mafon from 15 d. to x8 d. a-day ; of a joiner from is d: to
15 d. At prcfcnt, 179a, they are as follows : of a man fervant, from 7 L to 10 jf
of a woman, from 3 1. to 4 L 4 s. ; of a mafon, from 20 d. to 24 d. a-day ; of a
joiner, from 15 d. to 1 3d. All kinds of provifidns h4ve likewife rifen in pro-
portion; if we abftracl from the quality, which has been much improved fince
the above period. Beef, mutton, and lamb, fell at from 3 d. to 4$ d. the pound ;
veal at 2$d. to 4d.; honey at 6 d. to 12 d. the pound, Butch weight; fowls at
od. to i^d. ; eggs at 3 d. to 4 d a dozen; butter at pd. to xz d. the pound of
if os. ; cheefe at 6 s. to 8 s. the fto'ne, of 27 Englifh pounds. The price of vic-
tual is very much regulated by the market at Dundee. Oatmeal and barley
are, at a medium, about 14 s. the boll.
• One at a place calied Cbapeltcwn, about 3 miles to the N. of the town ;
one at Killhill, about 3 miles to the £. of it ; one near Balinihoe ; and one in
Kirriemuir. It is probable that the one near Balinihoe was built by the pro-
prietor; for the ufe of his own family ; as the fee of it is ftill enclofed with »
good wall, and ufed as the burying place of the Fletchers of Balinihoe. Whe-
ther the others belonged to private families, or the parifh in general, and when
any of them were ufed as places of public worihip, is uncertain^ But the pro*
prietor of the fite of the one in Kirriemuir is, to this day, called Sainty, and not
thirled to a mill in the neighbourhood, which is the cafe with every other pro-i
prietor in the town ; and a piece of ground adjoining,' tfo# ufed as a garden, is
in Old writs called the Kixk-yard.
i<)6 Statifiicjti Recount
An elegant church was built here in £787, to which CJhatiei
Lyell, Efq. of Kinnordy,. the principal heritor and fuperior'
of the town, added a handfome. foist, which is feen through
the whole of Strathmore. The manfe was built in 1774 >
but fo ill executed, that it was found neceflary to repair it
in 17.87. It is now a fubfcantial and .commodious houfe.
The (Upend is 112 bolls of vi&ual, \ meal, and x beary and
470 1. Scotch, including 50I. for communion elements,, and
20 1. for grafs-money, with a glebe of 4 acres. Lord Don*
glas is patron. — The fchoolmafter^s falary is 200 merks, with
a commodious houfe and a fmall garden, befides xl. 12 s.
Sterling, mortified to him, many years ago, by a Mr. Ogilvy
a clergyman in London, for teaching 4 boys, of bis. own
name*.
The number of fcholars varies from 60 to zoo. There-are
2 private fchools in the town, at one of which the numbers
ire much the fame as at the parochial fcfaool. At the other,
are taught from 20 to 40 fcholars. In the country part of
theparifh; there are 4 fchools, at which from 100 tax y>
children are taught to read Englilh. N
The* number of poor families which conftantly receive alms,
i&
* Mr* Hendry of the parifh of Kenfingtcm, London, a native of this partih,
by his will,' bequeathed to the mini ft er and elders 1400I. Sterling, in trull, the
intereflof xaocL to be laid out in educating/ and fumiihing. with books, pen',.
Ink, and paper, 1% boys, or, as many more as it will educate; and the intereft
of the remaining .zoo 1. to be paid to the fchoolmafter for keeping the account:.
Some difficulties artfe about Come parts of Mr. Hendry's property, and the ex*
clufion of the-truft in his will; fo that his executors did not think themfeive*
f*fe to pay the mtiney without an amicable fuit ia Chancery. This was begun
in 1784; and in 17S6, the Chancellor found the money due, with ij years in-
tereft ; but, initead of ordering it to be paid,, he directed it to be laid out in
the fuud>, and a plan to be given in how it was to be expended. This was done
fooa alter ; but the legacy has not yet been paid. It is, however, expeded that
nayu»e:.t' will be ordered in the courfe of neu term.
* Of Kirriemuir. tpjp
13-fct prefent 19* -The only fond for their fapport arifes feom
the intereft of a fmall fum laved by the feflioa in former
/ears, to aftfwer any emergence, collections in the,, church,,
dues for lending mortdoths, fines from delinquents, and the
fide of the effe&s of penfioners after their death* Thefe, for
thfeyear 1791, amounted to 99 1. 93. 8±d. The diftribu-
ttoos to the above penfionecs, and fome other occafionai cha-
rities, with 4L 4>s% paid to die feffion-elerk and beadle, a-
monnted to* 861. 16s. ad. j fo that in 1792* there was a fay-
ing of 12L 180. 6f<L, although the allowance to each pen-
fioner was never more liberal, being from 3 s. to 7 s. a-month,
befides the rent of their houfe, and from 53. to. ros. to affiii.
them in buying fuel *..
MifaBaneous Obfervations.—A little to the W. of the town
is a globular hillock, and contiguous to it, a circular pond
evidently excavated to form the hillock. In a difpofition to
the eftate of Kinnordy by one of the Douglas family, this
hillock, which is called the Court Hillock, and a road to it,
is referved. The pond is commonly called the Witch Fool,
and was lately converted into a refervoir for the mills on die
Crairie x a much better ufe than* if we may judge from the
name,
* In. 196a, the collections made in the church were, each Sunday, at a me.
dium, including what was collected at the difpenfation of the Lord's Supper
9*. $£d. In 1.772, the church was vacant; but in 17 70, they were 14s. 2d.;
and in 1700, 1 1. 8 s. tod. : A clear proof this of the growing opulence of the
pariih, as well as of their charitable diCpofition. But in order to have the a~
mount of their charity, we miift add a. conuderable fum given to. be diltributci
among poor families, not penfioners, by two of the heritors who are Epifcopa-
liaas, and, therefore, feldom or never attend the church ; and a very large fum
given by the people to ftrvlling beggars, moft of whom, inftead of being ob-
jects of charity, are very fit objects for a houfe of correction.. Such, however,
is the difpofition of the people, that their purfe is open to every vagabond who
oan tell a planfibie tale of woe ; and as much fquaodcred in this way. as would
make all- the poor in the parilh live comfortably*
i$4
Siatiflicdt Accoknt
attte, the fuperftition of Our atfteftof 4 leA thcftt to apply St*
At Iftvercarity there is a Gothic building of cult ftone i&
good repair. When it was ere&ed, is uncertain* fetit It ttfcft
have been before the 15th century. It confifts of 4 fcories;
and each ftorey, except the uppermoft, which i»4ividfed into
a, of only one apartment. The Walk arjp about 9 feet thick,
projeft confideratty near the top, and terminate in a parapet
not more than a foot thick. Between the parapet and roof;
there is a fpace for 2 or 3 men to walk abreaft, and imme-
diately above the gate 3 fquare apertures,* through the pro-
jection of the wall, fo placed, that a ftone dropped through
them muft fall upon a perfon Handing at the gate. To the
E. of the gate which fronts the S., are feme veftigea of a
wing, demolifhed, it is faid, by the Earl of Crawford, in
1445, in feme family feud between the Iindfays andOgilvies,
one of whom was then proprietor of Invercarity *.
ft uife-
• litis tttwn was in great diftrefs in 1781, not fo much from * Scarcity of vie-
tail, for fome of the farmers never had a better crop, as from a refdlution en-
tered into by the people not to give above a certain price. Confequenajy the
farmers carried their victual to the beft market ; and this place was threatened
with a famine. To prevent this in future, a fdciety was eftabiiflted in 1785;
called Ac Weaver Society. Each member, at his admiffion, pays a certain
fum, and ib much a quarter afterward ; and, in cafe of Gcknefs, or friability to'
"work, he is entitled to a certain allowance a-week ; and in the event of his
having a widow, (he receives a fcriall annuity. The fdnds, which are now con-
fiderable, are employed in purchafing meal, which is fold to the members at
£rime coll, and to others, at a trifling profit. This fbeieiy has been of great
ufe to the parifh, Another, on much the fame plan, called the Society of Shoe-
makers, was eftabiiflied fomc months ago. There are 3 moffcs in theparifh.
and feveral others on the boundaries of it. From thefe, the common people
are fupplied with fuel ; but the mofTcs being much exhaufted, it is now pro-
cured with difficulty ; and after a wet feafon, the poor are almoft ftarved*
l"his is the chief difadvantage under which the parim labours ; and is likely to'
be, in Come* meafurf, remedied by the great quantity ot thriving timber lately
planted here, and in the neighbourhood ; add by the Wmpikc rofd making flf
Dnndee, the nearcft fea port. *
7
tyKmmy, *9*
NUMBER XVIL
PARISH of XEMNAT,
(Cowm? ajid SnoB tte Askrdiex, PiguHTfCftT 01 Ga*
RIOCH.)
JSj the Rtv, Mr. Patrick Mitchell*
Name, Extent, Surface, ifc,
npiIE name of this diflrift is laid to be derived from the
4* Kembs, a chain of little hills which takes its rife
pearly at the middle of the parifh, and extending along the
N. fide of it, terminates . in die parifh of Cluny, by Which
Kemnay is bounded on the W. and S. W. There are 2 mi-
neral fprings at the foot of the Kembs, about an Englifl*
lfcQe diftant from each other, one of which is called the
Kemhrwell, and the other the Spa-well. The water is pretty
ftrongly impregnated with iron, but has not as yet got any
reputation for its medicinal virtues. The parifli lies 14 miles
W. from the capital of the county. It is bounded on the
N. N. E., and N. W., by the river Don* It i* of an irre-
gular
t oo Stati/iical Aciount
pilar figure, and about 4i EnglHh miles in length, and near-
ly 3 broad. It is rather hj% than flat ; but there are no hills
in it of any considerable height.
Rivtrt, jFjft.— The Don, which is our only river, abounds
in excellent falmon. The way in which they are caught
here, is by cruives, of which there are £ belpnging to Mr.
Burnett of Kemnay. The falmon are fent frefli to Aberdeen
for exportation, and are fold to the merchant at 4d. the pound^
from the beginning of the fiihing feafon to the middle of
April, and thence, to the end of the frtfoiv at jJjL the,
pound.
Soil.—'ihe foil is, for the moft part, a light mould, very
Ilony, and lying on a bed of fand. The haughs, indeed, op
the banks of the Don, are, in general, a fine rich loam,
deep, and perfeftly free from ftones ; but they are of no
great extent in this diftrifl. We have here great abundance
of peaNmofs, a confiderable part of which has been in tillage
for ^ges, and is called Burntland. It was heretofore the
pradice to plough fuch grounds early in fummer, and as foon
ae the furrows were a little dried, to fet fire to them ; a prac-
tice of confiderable advantage, to the fanner for a few years
after the burning, but very ruipous to the fail* Since this
pra&ioe ot?s prohibited, the crops of oats on our mofly
grounds have been poor, and, in late feafons, are generally
loft. But trees of all kinds thrive wonderfully in our peat-
notifies. The late Lord Kaimes takes notice of this faft uf
his Gentleman Farmer ; but he dates it inaccurately, and .
draws a conclufion from it, which by no meaiu follows. -
di At the feat of Mr. Buxnett of K^cmnay," fays his Lord*
kip (page 305, of the edition 1776) u 10 miles from Aber-
deen, a kitchen-garden, a flQwer-gardcn, a wildernefs of trees, .
indigenous
Of Kemnay. 4oi
indigenous and eiotic, are all in a peat-mofs, where water
ftagnates from i foot to 2 under the furface." This, Lord
Kaimes advances as a proof, that " a plant may acquire a
conftitution fitting it for growing partly in earth, partly in
water." But the kitchen-garden and flower-garden at Kern,
nay, are not in a pcat-mofs. On the contrary, the foil of
both is a light mould, very mallow, and lying on fand of a
deep brown colour. It is true that the wildernefs is in a
peat-mofs; and that almoft all the trees, both indigenous and
exotic, that have been planted in it; have come away with
extraordinary rapidity. But the tap iroots ftop immediately
when they come to the ftagnant water, that is; to the quick
mofs, as we call it, and pufh no further. The other roots
ihoot horizontally to a great distance from the tree, but never
go below the dry or dead part of the mofs. Tt is neceflary to
obferve farther, that in planting in peat-mofs, it is always
found expedient here, to throw into the pit that is dug for
the reception of the plant, a certain quantity of good earth,
either loam or mould, among which it takes root ; and that
in no inftance has a tree been obferved- to vegetate abdve 2 or
3 years, where this was omitted.
Air% Climate. — NobHthftandiflg the abundance of peat-
mofs in thi4 parifli, which has, doubtlefs, rather a bad effect
upon the air, the inhabitants, in general, are not unhealthy.
The greater number of the little villages in which they live,
is in elevated fituations. No local diftemper has ever been
known to prevail among them, unlefs that kind of dropfy
which phyficians call the anafarca, and which frequently ap-
pears here, may be called fuch. This diforder, however, is
ieldom mortal, as it yields to a very fimple cure, if tbe old
advice is followed, " venienti occunite morbo."
Vol. XII. C c Sui-
aoa. Statijlical Account
Seed-time and Harvejl.— The time of fowing oats is, ge*
serally, from the 2d or 3d week of March to the middle of
April ; bear, from the end of April to the 20th of May j
and turnips, from the 10th to the 20th of June. No other
crop befides thefe is raifed in the diftrift ; and it is* only about
4 or 5 years fince any perfon but the principal heritor * be-
gan, to fow turnips in the fields. They are dill fown in very
fmall quantities by the tenants. Harveft generally begins
about the end of Auguft, or the ift week of September -r
and the crop is brought into the barn-yards by the end of
October. In 17759 harveft was completely finifhed by the
end of Auguft ; but fuch early feafons are, generally, followed
by a fcarcity of draw, our only winter food for horfes and
cattle.
Agriculture. — This ufeful art is very far from being in- an
improved ftate in this parifti. The late Mr. Burnett of Kern*
nay fet an excellent example, as a farmer, to his tenants. Of
nearly 130 acres, which he enclofed and improved, between
90 and zoo acres were moor or marfh, which he broke up,
drained, and cleared of {tones, of which there was an amazing
number, and the mod of them fo large, that they could not
be removed till they were blown up withr gunpowder. While
Mr. Burnett was improving thefe grounds, which he left in a
high date of cultivation, and paying well for the expenfe be-
dowed upon them, he planted, with trees of different kinds-,
130 acres, befides hedge- rows, in the Englifh mode,, round
every field in his farm, on each fide of the avenues leading to
his houfe, and in the little gardens of his tenants. The wiL-
dernefs already mentioned,* was alfo enclofed and planted, while
Mr.
* Th* late Mr. Burnett of Kemnay, is faid to have been the firft farmer in
fhe county of Aberdeen, who raifed turnips in the fields.
Of Kernnay. 203
Mr. Burnett's improvements in agriculture were going on. It
contains 24 acres of the mod thriving wood, fhrubs, &c. and
is one of the moft delightful pieces of pleafure-ground in the
N. of Scotand, though afi in a peat-mofs. But Mr. Burnett's
example, in refpeft of improvement, has produced very little
effeft on his tenants, among whom, in general, the fame mode
of agriculture prevails that was followed a century ago. There
is, indeed, an inclination among them to alter it. A tafte
for cleaning their grounds by green crop, and fowing artifi-
cial grafe, begins to appear. But they have feveral obfiacles
to improvement to furmount. They have not fufficient (lock.
Indeed, there is not a fubftantial tenant in the parifli. They
have fcarcely any enclofures. Their leafes are Qiort, none of
them exceeding 19 years. The carriage of lime from the
port of Aberdeen, where alone it can be got, is a very heavy
expenfe, as we have neither a canal nor a navigable river.
The tenants pay a high multure * at the mill. Tbey have no
fuel but peats, the digging and carrying home of which afford
full employment to their fervants and horfes, from the end of
May till harveft begin. Goals are too high-priced for them,
in confequence of the unreafonable tax on that article, which
has been fo often complained of, and is at lalt to be taken off,
I hope for ever f.
Cca Scarcely
* The multures on Lord Kintore's part of the parifli were lately commuted
for money ; and I have the pleafure to learn, that the proprietor of the eftate
of Kemnay has it in contemplation to commute his multures alfo.
\ Remarkable Storm.— Txvo years ago, a calamity befel the greater part of
this pariih, and of the parilhes of Cluny and Kintore, which produced great dif-
trefc, and is (till, in fome raeafure, felt. On the 30th of July 1790, about 10
o'clock before noon, there came on a ftorra of thunder and lightning, attended
with a heavy fall of hail, or rather of pieces of ice. The ftorm continued with
fcarcely any intermiffion, tiU 3 o'clock in the afteraoon, when the ground was
quite covered with ice, and, where there was ao (landing corn, exhibited as
nucH-
$04 Statijlkal Account
Scarcely any part of this pariih is enclofed, but what is iff
the immediate pofleffion of the principal landholder* The
farms are, in general, rather fmall, and rent from 60 1. down
as low as 6 !. I do not mean that they are fmall in point of
extent. If all the grounds in every farm were improved, that
are capable of improvement, feveral of the farms would be
very
much the appearance of winter as it does in the end of pecernber, after a fall
of fnow. I was informed, upon good authority, that the hail, at the foot of the
wall of Cattle Frafer, which is in the pariih of Cluny, jneafured 5 feet in depth
on the evening of the 30th. It lay there, and in many other places in this
neighbourhood, for feveral days. It did not occur to any body to meafure or
weigh the nail-ftones ; fo that I cannot fay any thing particular reflecting the
fize of them. After the thunder and lightning ceafed, the hail was fucceeded
by fmall drizzling rain, which continued to 6* o'clock in the afternoon. All end-
ed at night 'in a moft intenfe froft, attended by a mildew, which Waited almoft
every thing which the lightning and hail had fpared. The bear and oats being
in the ear, and the moft forward of them beginning to fill, a great deal of the
grain was knocked from the ear by the hail. On the firft clear day after the
ftorm, the bear began to put on a brown colour, and in left than a week, the
ears were almoft all white. The ftraw continued green and juicy, till it was -
cut down in harvcft, and proved excellent food for the cattle. I remarked,
that fome grains in the blafted ears continued to vegetate after the ftorm, and
came to perfection. But they were very few. To give fome idea of the general
failure of our bear crop, in confequence of this ftorm, I moft irate, that from a
fmall field of fomething' more than half an acre, which I had limed and dreffed
with turnips in 17S9, 1 reaped not quite half a peck of bear in 1700. The oats
not being fo far advanced as the bear, fufFered left. But, in general, it was es-
timated that we loft at leaft three-fourth* of our crop of oats. The potatoes
lik -wife tailed, the items having been firft mattered by the hail, and then en-
tirely deftroyed by the fucceeding froft. Some Surinam potatoes, which I had
planted that feafon, did, indeed, put forth again with ^reat vigour ; but it was
too late. The cabbage.% greens, turnips, and all broad leaved vegetables, were
much torn, and confequcntly checked in their growth. The grafs, both natu-
fal and artificial, was greatly damaged. In a word, every vegetable lufiered by
the ravages of this deftruclive ftorm. Yet as they did not extend over a fpace
above 24 or %6 miles in circumference, we felt none of the haidfliips of fcarcity.
Grain was to be got in great plenty in our neighbourhood, aad at a moderate
|rke. No lives were loft by the ftorm.
Of Kcmnty. %q$
very large and very rateable. There are a good many fmall
parcels of land, which we call crofts, held immediately of the
proprietor, and renting from 1 1. ios. to 3 1. Thefe are gc
perally poflefled hy day-labourers and mechanicks. No part
Of the lands here is let by the acre, and I believe they are mo-
deratly rented upon the whole \ and, in fome particular cafes,
very low. I have not, as yet, got an account of the number
o£ acres which this dill rift contains ; and I cannot ftate pre>
cifely the amount of the rest. Perhaps it may be between
690 1. and 700 1* yearly.
The vegetable produce of this parifli has already been men-
tioned. With refpeft to animal productions, there are in it
about 500 black cattle, of a fmall fixe ; between 80 and 90
horfes of middle fixe, and about 1300 fheep, all white, with,
very few exceptions, whofe carcafes are fmall, and their wool
coarfe, and not very plentiful, the fleeces weighing fcarcely
X lib. each, at an average. I cannot ftate exadly what part
of the produce of this diftrift is carried to market out of the
Darifb. But in all ordinary feafons, a confiderable quantity
of oatmeal, bear, and oats, is fent to Aberdeen, befides do-
meftic fowls, eggs, cheefe and butter, and fometimes fed cattle,
particularly calve*, and fopae lheep, for the butcher *•
Pofuktion*~&ccox&mg to Dr. Webfter's report, the popu-
lation then was 643. At the prefent time the whole number
* of inhabitants is 611, of whom there are 150 under xo years
of
* There are hares, foxes, fome deer that vifit us occafionally, and moft of the
{owls which axe natives of the north part of Scotland. The birds of paflage
are wild-geefe, which appear in autumn, and leave us in fpring, the houis-
fwallow, and the hirundo riparia, which builds its neft in the high banks of the
TiTer, the green-plover or lapwing, the cuckoo, and two or three different
kinds of birds from the fea-coaft, which bring forth their young about the banks
tf the Don, and then retire*
eo6 Statiftical Account
of age, 104 from xo to 20, 3 from 80 to 90, and % above 9*,
There are few widowers ; but there is a confiderable number
of widows ; only one old bachelor, who is a houfekeeper, but
a good many unmarried women, who are pretty far advanced
in life. The number of females exceeds that of the males by
92.
Abstract of the Baptisms, Marriages, and Burials for
the laft 9 Tears.
Yeari- Baptifms. Murage* Burial**
*7*4
8
2
3
1785
«3
4
»9
1786
*S
3
$
1787
*5
»
7
1788
10
4
6
1789
11
2
7
1790
17
9
4
1 791
16
3
11
179a
22
3
»4
Average nearly, 15 4 8
.. Occupations and General CharaBer, &c. — There are 4 wea«
vers, 3 tailors, 1 blackfmith, 3 fhoeipakers, 2 joiners, and 1
cartwright. None of thefe manufacture articles for fale, bu(
work for the inhabitants of the parifli and neighbourhood.
There are alfo a grocers, one of whom is a diftiller. All the
reft, except the principal landholder, his family and domeftics,
are farmers, cottagers, and farm fervants. The women never
work in the fields but in harveft. They are conftantly em-
ployed in houfehold affairs, and in knitting coarfe wprfted
ftockings for exportation, which is the only manfadure which
ha$
Of Kemriay. tof
has been introduced into the diftrift. The Aberdeen hofier*
take in the manufactured ftockings, and give out wool once*-,
month. A woman who is confidered as a good knitter, will
finiih a pairs in a week, if the worfted is fpun to her*- for
which (he receives from the hofier 23.4 d., or a 3. 6 d. The
fpinning cofts 8 d. So that the utmoft that a woman employ*
ed in this manufa&ure can earn, is a s. 2 d. a. week. Several
of the men, when they become old, and unfit for working in
the fields, employ themfelves in fpinning and knitting* Some
of the boys likewife are fo employed in winter. My ac-
quaintance with my pariihioners commenced very early ; for I
was born in the pariih, and, unlefs when I attended the uni-
verfity, refided conftantly in it, till I was 17 years of age;
and I have always obferved them to be, with few exceptions,
fober, frugal, and induftrions, very decent and ferious in what
regards religion, but far from being wild or fanatical ; much
attached to their minifters, of whom they have had fix with-
in the laft 40 years, and much beloved by them ; peaceable
in their iatercourfe with one another, and, in general, honeft
in their dealings. No perfon remembers to have heard of an
inhabitant of this pariih undergoing a criminal trial *• There
are two public houfes ; but they are very little frequented,
unlets by travellers, and about 5 or 6 of the inhabitants of
the pariih, the only perfons in it who have not a good title
to the chara&er of fober. Several of the natives have, in my
memory, inlifted in the army ; but the people, in general, are
not fond of a military life. They are all Scotch, mod of them
natives
* There was, indeed, a murder committed in it about 30 years ago. It was
the confequence of a drunken quarrel. The murderer, who, by the by, was
hot a native of the pariih, and had been but fliort time in it, evaded a profecu-
tion by an immediate flight. H any fuicide has ever been committed in the
pariih, it mull have been long ago, for no fuch event is remembered by tht oli.
eft nonliving.
io8 Statjfticat Account
natives of the pariftu They are all of the Eftabli&ed Church;
except 5 Burgher Seceders, 15 Episcopalian*, (formerlj Non-
jurors), and 1 Catholic, a very late convert from the Efta-
blifhed religion. The Epifcopalians appear fometimes in the
parifli chllrch : the Seceders and the Catholics' are never feed
there.
The inhabitants of this parifli feem, in general, to be as well
pleafcd with their lot as any in fimilar ftations in this part of
Scotland. I know of no oppreffion that they labour under ;
and I have always obfervcd, that it. is with reluctance, that
any perfon or family, who have been for fome time in the pa-
rifli, remove from it to another: There is no doubt, however,
that their fituation, and that of all the inhabitants of Aber*
deenflure of their rank, might be meliorated, if agriculture,
and the eftablifliment of manufactures, were properly encou-
raged. And I fufpect that the landholders Cannot effectually
promote thofe two great objects, without public aid, however
much they may be difpofed to do fo. Without bridges, bet*
ter roads than we have at prefent, and navigable canals, it is
not likely that any confiderable improvement will take place
in the county. The eftablifliment of great manufacturing
houfes at Aberdeen, operates, as yet, againft the landed inte*
reft. While it is every year railing the price of labour, it has
in no degree raifed the price of grain, and has had very little
effect on that of cattle. It has produced a mod diftreffing
fcarcity of farm -fer van ts, which, in a country fo little improv-
ed, muft be ruinous in a very high degree.
Poor. — The number of parifh-poor is commonly between"
10 and 30. The whole yearly fum which the kirk-feffiori
have under their management, for the benefit of the poof, is
about 18 1., which arifes from the weekly collections in the
church, and the intereft of fome legacies. There is alio the
fiutf
of i# h a-yeart bequeathed by * M*. Anderfon of the
Ifiaad of St* Christopher's, (who was once a beggar boy, and
educated in this pari(h at the public expenfe), under the ma-,
nagement of the principal landholder, and diftributed by him
in meal, to ihofc whom he deems rood proper objeSs of cha*
rity, whether they are on the feffion's lift or net. Yet, not*
withftanding the fcantinefs of our jJlovifion for the poor, there
are but g common beggars in the pariib j only one of whom
is a native, and be oxvar bc§* without the bound? of th*
yarifli.
Emiamt Mtn^L hare beard of np eminent men to whom
this pariib has ghrea biitb. it .gave burial to one^ who madf
no inconGderaWe figure both in the literary and political
World ; I mean Thomas Burnett, Lfij. the grandfather of the
prefent Mr. Burnett of &eainay, and the firft of the family
who pofieffed the eftatc. This gentleman travelled over a
great part of Europe, and waa the friend and correfpoodeat
of Leibnitz, and of feveral other learned men of his time*
He was the relation and intimate friend of J>r. Gilbert flnr-
liett, B&op of Sarum *,
Vol. XII. D 4 &ami$
♦ » HewMlaogattbe Ceast.rf Hanover/' fyt * mmfofr ujwdx of
fain, that » iatfc*f*ncteef Iwgrajtfoa, " wheie hawas homnad wtthmaaj
dHKagniftiit saaths 0/ fmar , and. ate the psafetd of tiit iwaseffion of ft*
PBftiMMteilf t» the frown tf ftcitaiA, b*g*n to opa* he was tfvtf*d bj
ate Maccfe Sophia, JEfeetafttf Banovar. ia conveying har tatiiatats, «o fro*
at the aw* critical anil da&ata ttgafioaaj tafema of the great acpin JSnglaaA
HazsalttJAfeityfeiOii fenice tow an him the retetaioat of the Japo*
frites, by whpje iafiacatte he wasisapntaad i» the Eaftile, in p%ffiqg tbrougfr
fVaace to Hanover* wheat ha was detained, titt the Dachefii of Orkaaaavo*
eaeaa kj* liberty, at the aapeated inftaaaef of the £le&c^ ana4 the Qjtaa of
lUifisy her daughter.
V Mr. Bntnttt was honoured with many letters from her St reae Hfebaefr the
1 in ai» fcrrket, aad wiibxag for aa oc-
cafioA
2 lb Statical Account
Names of Places**— The names of places in this parifii ate
partly Engliib, and partly Gaelic. Of the former descrip-
tion
«
eafion of being ufefal to him in his own country. Yea, fo sfnxiftus. was that
gracious Pxincds to carry her food intention into execution, that ihe wrote f
letter to my .Lord Sunderland, intvhich (he defires his good offices in procuring
lome mark of favour from the Court of England, to Mr. Burnett, which, (he is
pleafed to fay, will be very acceptable to her and all her family, who intereft
themferWin him. But this letter was not delivered till the day befere thee
Xord was removed from all his employments- and it was not, at that feafim, a
recommendation at the Court of England. In 17x0, when Baron Bothmer was
lent Envoy extraordinary from the Court of flanover to that of Great Britain
on a very critical occafion, he was inftructed to communicate, in every thing
relating to whet be was charged with *t the Court of London, with Mr. Bar*
net*, then these, and Mr. Burnett was.deired.by.her Electoral Highncit to givf
JJaron Bothmer bis advice and affiftance, in a letter written by the Secretary,
iealed with the Ele&refs's Genet, and accompanied with this gracious declara-
tion of her intentions. ' ' S. A. £. Madam m'ordonne de vous bien remercier de
h part, du aele que vous continue* de lui marquer pour fa perfonne, et pour
les intents de cette maifon lUedoraJe, dont elle vous temoignera, dans 1'occa-
fton, fa recooooiffance par des effet*.' Mr. Burnett lived fame years after thfe
mcceffion ; but, being old and infirm, had retired from the world ; and he did
not live to receive thofe rays of the late lung's (George the L) goodnefs, which
his Majefty was lb gracious es signify he intended him, in anfwer to a letter
that Mr. Burnett took the liberty Jo write, acquainting bis Majefty of bis hav-
ing a Ion born on the acceffion, whom be had named George, that he might
mlways remember, with his name, the bleffibgs which were derived to the na-
tion from that day. This fon. the only one Mr. Burnett ever had, sent to bit
coufin the Honourable Thomas Burnett, Judge of the Common fleas, several
letters from her Serene Highnefs the Eldftrefs to bis lather, that (bow bow
much he was traded, and bis fervices approved of; with the original letter
from that Princefi to the Earl of Sunderland mentioned above. Judge Bur-
nett was defirous to have thofe papers in his hands, as bis father the Biihop waa
mentioned in them, and as he hoped for an occa6on of employing them for the
fervice of this fon of Mr. Burnett, Whom he knew and efteemed."
Thus far the matmfcript*— Judge Burnett died fueldenly of a fit of apoplexy
foon after he received thofe papers, and the fon of Mr. Burnett mentioned in!
them, never received any favour from the descendants of the Ele&refr Sophia.
His only Ion, the prefcnt Mr. Burnett of Kemnay, was at the Court of Berlin.
with
Of Kemnaf. fin
ibn arc Miltown, Alehoufewell, Glenhead; Srapehard, &c;
of the latter are Craigearn, or Iron Stone, Lachintillie, or
the Hillock of Sawins, &c. All thefe names are eyidentljr
expreffive of the particular fituation of the refpeftive places,
tacepring Lachintillie, which very probably has beeb origi-
nally a nickname.
Roads*— There are only two public roads in this pari$i
the one leading to Aberdeen, the other to Inverury and Old
MeMraw. They were originally ndade, and are kept in re-
pair by the ftatute-labour.
Wages, Prices; Scc.-^-Very little of the firm work is done
hy cottagers ; the farmers, in general, employing unmarried
men fervants, who eat and lodge in their matter's boufes*
Their wages are from jl. to 7I. yearly;: by far too high fot
the prefent (late of agriculture in Aberdeen/hire. Laft fea-
fon, t s. a-day, befides tiftUals and lodging, was given to
men for harveft work; and we heard of 2I. ios. having
been given as wages for the hafrveft, by lump, at no great
diftance from this diftrilt. This exorbitant price of farm-
work is owing, as 1 had occafion to hint before, to the great
and increafing demand for hands at the Aberdeen manufac-
tories *•'
tf d i Antiquities
with the late Sk Andrew Mitchell, as Secretary 6f Legation, and with hint
attended Frederic the Second, in all his campaigns during the famous 7 years
war. When Mr. Burnett left Berlin, on the appointment of a facceflbr to Sir
. Andrew, he brought with him an effort of royal genius, that deferves to be
. mentioned as a curiofity. It is a painting done bj the father of the late King
if Praffia, in a fit of the gout. It is now at Kemnay, and is a perform aoce
. much fuited to procure entire credit to the rafcriptipn at the foot of it ; " Fre-'
. dericus pinxit in tormentis."
• The common wages of a day4abourer are rod. in fammer, and 6d. in win-
ter.
six Statljlical Account
Antiquities. ~-!T\art are too remains of antiquity !t» this pu
ri(ht but a long (Iobc fet on end, no perfon knows how or
when •»
Proprietors, Stipend^ Scbotil, bV— The Earl of Kioto**
who is proprietor of two extenfive farms, and Alexander Bur-
nett,
ttr, when he fWraiihes ins own nrnviGoT* ; i^tfita tommer, and ad. fn win*
ter, when lie eats in the aouie of hit employer. The wages of women lervant*
have not as yet exceeded *L cos. aTyear ; bat they axe likely to rtfe* Woaen
ordinarily get 1 1. in harveft.
Eafenfft of a labourer's Family.— There is no day-labourer here who does
AOt rent a (mall piece of ground, cither of the proprietor or of a tenant, which
enables him to keep a cow or two, to fuppJy his ntmily with milk, and to. rear
Tome young cattle almoft every year. As it is not eafy to eftimate the advan-
tage* he derives from his little farm, it is difficult to a&ertain exactly either his
income or his eapeafo. His wile and children |re commonly fed and clothed-
with as much frugality as is confifteat with any degree of comfort;, and me
children of both tee* are very early taught to knit Aockingsfor the manufac-
turer.
Price if Rrovifia***-Xti$&amik* Aberdeen market chicly that the fieri!*
is fupplied with the little bm*char.ta*at which is confusaed in k. Meal is ge-
nerally 1 d. or \ d. the peck cheaper than in the Aberdeen market, and the or-
dinary price is regulated by the quantity to be (old in the country in general*
Hence, it is of very great confeqnenee, both to the felters and cenfumers, that
we have judicious corn-laws, if we muft have corn-laws, the propriety af
which is very difputsble. Batter Cells onmmxmly for 7 d. the pound, of 28 ounces.
Hens from 6d. to red..**
* This Irene meafooes abdot Vt\ feet above ground ; tow ttnen below, eta.
exrt be afcettained, witfiout incurring the ri(k of felling k. Its mean girth is
9 feet. There is no figure nw inscription upon it, and no appearance of hewing.
The fmiller ead is uppermoft, onlifce another flane, af moch the fame descrip-
tion in all other reffcedta, *tiicfc has been eia&ed near the border between this
farilh and Chiny, aftd Hands en the ftnalkr end. sis thefe ftene* cannot be fe>»
•©fed to have been parts «f .Briridical temples, it is net improbable that they
have been erected in memory of fame illuftrious peWbns or events, or as men*.
• aceots of &fana treaties between hoiftife nations or tribes. Tradition es entire-
ly fijent upon the fubject.
Of Kmnay. Ai$
nett, Efq. of Kecrmay, are the only heritors of tho pariih.
Mr* Burnett refides in it. The living is 30K x6«. 8d. Ster-
ling of money, 28! bolls of meal at 81 Hone the boll, and
154- bolls of bear, whxh, with the glebe, may amount to
nearly 60 1. a-year. The Earl of Kintore is patron. Tn#
mania was built in 1680, by Dr. James Willox, then mini-
ster of Kemnay, and at his fole expenfe *. The church is
48 years older than the manfe. It was new roofed, plafter-
ed, and adorned in the infide, with great tatte and elegance,
by the late Mr. Burnett of $emnay ; but the walls are oot
likely to ftand long.— I bexe 14 a tolerable fchool-houfe here +.
The
* The Bilhop of Aberdeen end his affeffors had, upon Dr. Willox's petition,
appointed a new manfe at Kemnay, which was built by the heritors, and pro-.
Bounced fufficient by the Biibop and his preJbyters. But Dr. WUIqx was fo
much difpleafed with it, that he immediately began to build a houfe for him,
felf, which was finilhed in 16*80, as appears from the infeription over the entry,
which contains bis own and his wife's name, and the date of the building. The
houfe built by the heritors was converted into t barn, and continued to be
occupied as fiich till the year 1786, when it made way for a new brew,
houfe, all the offices having been new built in that year. The walls of the
manfe are built of ftone and mortar. They are very thick, and plaftered on
the infide wilh clay. It was, when it was built, and many years after, fo
much fuperior in every refpe& to the otfaer manfes in this part of Scotland, that
from its Gn^ulamy, and from the circumftar.ee of the minifter having been at
the expenfe of the building, it was long known by the name of Caftle Folly.
The floors and roof have been occaficnaliy repaired ; but no addition to it has
been made. And yet, though there is not fo much room in it as in modem
nanfc*, it is ftill no uncomfortable houfe.
t State of the farijb rVt 1762 and 1783.-— I did not refide in Kemnay dur-
ing thofe two yean. But from occasional vifits to it, which were pretty fre-
quent, I learned that a great number of the inhabitant* were in extreme dif-
trefs, owing to the latenefs of the harveft, and the unexampled fe verity of the
Jeafon in 1761, and the impoffibility of procuring good feed in fpnng [783.
Scarcely any of the corns were ripened here, before the froft came on in 1782.
The majority of the inhabitants lived on pe ale and bjrlev-mcal, imported at
Aberdeen*
4 1 4 btati/lkal Account
The fchool mailer's living, by the account of the prefent ioU
cumbent, including the parochial (alary, the in te reft of (bote
legacies,- fchool-fees; and all other emoluments, doea not, ante
year with another, exceed 81- Sterling a%year.
Ntk.
Aberdeen. The poor got fomc part of the fupply that was given by Government
to the northern counties ; and the kirk-feffion bought fome grain, which
war fold to the poor corifiderabry below prime' colt No perfon died of want.
OfGUnmuick, TuHocb, and Clertgainu * tjf
NUMBER XVIIJ.
UNITED PARISHES or GLENMUlCK, TUL.
LOCH, a*j> GLENGA1RN.
(County ahd Stno© or Abvrdeik, Prisbttirt or KlK-
CAJLDIMJt O'Nltli,.)
£y *4* itou Mr. GfQftPE B*own.
Situation, Heritors, Extent, Surface, %£c,
•T^HESE ur.ited pariflies are about 40 ftatute miles W. of
••*• Aberdeen, which 19 the neareft pod town. The he.
ritofs are the Eari of Aboyne, the fole patron, James Far*
qubarfon, Efq. of Invercauld, William Farquharfon, Efq. of
Monaltree, Charles Gordon, Efq. of Abefgeldie, William
Macdonaid, Efq of St Martin's, Captain John Macdonaid of
Gairnfdale, and John Erikine, Efq of Achalatar. Mr. Gor-
don of Abergeldie, and Captain Macdonald, are the only re-
siding heritors. Thefe pariflies form a very irregular figure,
ftnd are about 18 miles in length, and 1 5 in breadth, and are
interfe&ed by the Dee, a large and rapid river, abounding
with
ff6 Statifiufll Account
with falmon, and troats of different kinds The eountryff
mountainous, and, in the upper parts, very ftormy in win*
ten
Agriculture, &c.— The foil, in general, it hot and (hallow, but
produces good grain, though proportionablj little fodder.
Sowing begins about the middle or end of Mrcb, and leaping
aBoiif the middle or end of Auguft, except in the upper parts
of the parifbes, where the foil is cold and wet, and there feed-
time and harveft may be % or 3 weeks later. The crops are
bear, oats, rye, p^afe, potatoes, and fmall quantities of fiaju
The arable grcrmnd bears bat a fmall proportion to tbe fiuy
rounding mountains, which a€brd excellent pafture for Jheepf
and the people have hitherto paid much more attention to
their flocks than to their farms. Agriculture may be faid to
be only in its infancy here ; but it is capable of very great im-
provements. And if the inhabitants would adopt and perfe*
▼ere in that fpirit of induftry which is beginning to appear
«mong a few of them, I have not the leaft doubt but ttat, in
a few years, they would be independent of other countnes for
% grain. Several things, indeed, are agaiuft them ; their coun«
try is open, and wintcr-beiding is not known, or, at lead, it
is looked upon as an intolerable grievance, and therefore tot
pra&Lfed j many of them have no leafes on their poffeffioas,
and. the others but {hot-tones: and, which pernaps is worj^
of all, being accuftomed from their infancy to a paftoral life,
they cofttraft a babtf of indolence incompatible with a goo4
farmer. From tbe time that harveft is over, which is gene*
rally about the middle of O&obec, .they neither yoke a plough*
nor do any thing about their farms till the feed time comet
on, when man, woman, and child are employed in huddling
over the work in the moft fuperficial manner. And when,
the buflk of .Cowing is over, all concern about the farm i*
again
Of Glcnmulcky Tullbcb, and Gkngairn. 21 7
again laid afide till harveft begins. I fpeak this in general;
there are a few excepted who pay more attention, and whofe
farms make them very grateful returns. Their farms, or ra-
ther crofts, are by far too fmall, few of them exceed 12, and,
in general, they are from 5 to 8 acres. It occurs to me, that
the befl means for improving the country, and exciting a fpi-
rit of induftry among the people, would be to annex 2 or 3
farms together, and to have none under 20 or 30 acres, to
grant leafes of 19 years at leaft, to give the tenant encourage-
ment to enclofe, and trench balks, &c« and even to give him
for fome time a fmall premium for the acre of good turnips,
or hay raifed after turnips. This would have a tendency to
raife a fpirit of emulation, which would turn to the advantage
both of the proprietor and tenant. By managing their ground
in this way, the face of the country would be improved, a
fufficrency of grain raifed, and the flocks better fupported in
florm than they are at. prefent. For one acre of hay or tur-
nips would go farther in that way, than all the fodder that
grows upon fome of their fmall farms by the prefent manage*
ment. I am aware of one objection againft reducing the num-
ber of farms, and that. is, that it would reduce the number
of inhabitants alfo. This, no doubt, in fome degree, might
be the cafe : but if every tenant mould be allowed 3 or 4 fub-
tenants, who might be ufefully employed about the farm, or in
looking after the flocks, the decreafe of population would be
very little, if any at all. But I leave it to thofe who are
more interefted to determine, whether it be better to allow
the country to remain in its prefent unimproved Hate, and to
fofter the indolence of the people, or to lead them on by in-
duftry to improve the country, and their own circumftan-
ces.
Mr. Gordon of Ahergeldie's farm of Birkhall is an inftance
of what the ground in this country is capable of producing,
Vol. XII. E e when
a 1 8 Statiftical Account
when properly managed. He took this farm, which confiits
of nearly ioo acres arable, and about the fame number of
pafture among natural wood, into his own hands only a few
years ago ; he enclofedand fubdivided it with ftone-fences and
hedges, levelled and ftraightcd the fields ; trenched up balks,
and drained marfhes ; and now raifes from it bear, oats, peafe,
potatoes, turnips and hay, of as good quality as any in Aber-
deen (hire. The acre, after turnips, yields at an average, 8 bolls
of bear, and the whole of the farm, under crop, gives the 6th
return. His garden produces as early, and well flavoured fruit
as any in the N. of Scotland ; apples, pears, plumbs, cher-
ries, goofeberries, &c. — And while Mr. Gordon farms to ad-
vantage, he has not loft fight of neatnefs and elegance ; he has
cleared away the rubbifh of nature about his villa, and dif-
played her beauties, which are many, to the beft advantage.
But the example of Mr. Gordon, or of any gentleman, will
never be attended with any good confequences to the tenants;
they look upon *11 that he has done as the fole efie& of mo-
ney, and far beyond their reach. And until fome a&ive en-
terprifing genius among themfelves fteps forward and fets
the example, they will never go out of the old track ; and this
cannot be expe&ed till they get leafes upon their poffeffions.
But if ever they fliall be brought to pay more attention to
their ground, I am certain a regard to their own intereft will
make them perfevere \ for the climate is temperate, and the
foil, though thin, is early and fertile. But while I accufe
the men of indolence, I fhould do great injuflice to the wo-
men, if I did exempt them from the charge ; by whofe in-
duftry and diligence their families are in a great meafure fup-
ported. Their chief employment is fpinning flax, fent up by
fome manufa&urers from Aberdeen, which brings a great deal
of money into the country. During the funsmer months, ma-
5 ny
Of Glenmuicl, Tulloch, and Glengairn. 219
ny of them manufa&ure their own wool into coarfe blue, or
tartan webs, which fell at 2 s., or 2 s. 6 d. the ell.
Manners, &c. — The people are honeft, economical, fober,
contented, and hofpitable ; very regular in attending upon di-
vine worfhip, and warmly attached to their country ; their
language is Englifh, except in the upper parts of the parifhes
of Tulloch and Glengairn, where fome of them ufe a barba-
rous dialed: of the Gaelic among themfelves, but they all un-
derhand the Englifh. Their fize, in general, is from 5 feet
5 inches, to 5 feet 8 inches high ; they are flout made, healthy,
and capable of great fatigue. Fevers of different kinds pre-
vail fometimes ; but there is no difeafe peculiar to the coun-
try. The air is pure and dry, and reckoned very wholefome:
and yet there is only one inflance of extreme old age remem-
bered here. A John Mitchell, aged 124, born in the parifli
ofGlenmuick in 1598, and died in 1722; the date of his
birth and death is ftill very legible on his tomb-ftone. The
fuel ufed here is peats and turfs from the adjacent hills ; they
are both good of their kinds, but attended with great ex-
penfe, as they lie at the back of very ftcep mountains.
Population, &c.— According to Dr. Webftcr's report, the
number of fouls then, was 2270. At prefent the population*
&c. is as follows :
Population,
Protectants,
* That the number of males fhould be fo much lefs than that of the females,
is owing to many of the young men going to the South and Low Countries t*
£ervice, becaufe they cannot get employment at home.
21 1 7 Papifts,
354
1763 Males*,
'- - 965
E e 2
Females,
220
Statiftical Account.
Females, - - 1152
Square wrights, - 16
Infants below xo years
Millers, - 8
of age,
279
Tailors, - - 15
Families,
476
Weavers, - - 18
Fcrfons, at an average, Fn
Shoemakers, ... 4
a family, nearly
5
Blackfmiths, «. - 7
Births, at an average, for
Merchants, 9
. 33 years,
34
Schbolmaflers, - 3
Marriages, at an average,
Children and young people
for 16 years,
14
learning reading, writ-
Bachelors above 50 years,
14
ing, and arithmetic, 236
Unmarried women above
Taverns, 8
45.
56
Black cattle,. - 1563
Perfons above 50,
**3
Horfes f, r 716
Above 70,
7*
Sheep, - 13,263
Above 80,
29
Ploughs yoked, - 208
Above 90, *
2
Caits, 6i
Above 100 •.
1
Carriage, 1
Widows, •
70
Bolls of oats fpwn, r 971
Widowers,
43
Bear, - - 407
Men fervants,
63
Potatoes planted, - . 61
Maid fervants, r
87
Acres under turnips in
Mafons, - -
4
the field, . 8
L. fk
. d.
L. (h. d.
Men fervants wages
A day-labourer, with
for the year, 6 0
O
his victuals, - 0.0$
Womens ditto, .30
6
Do. without vi&uals, 009
A woman
* This old woman faid to be 102, died lately, fince the table was made out.
f The generality of the horfes here, are of the fmall Highland breed, very
hardy, and eafily fupported. There are fome of, the, tenants who keep better
horfes; and Abergcldic's are valued at from x 81. to 30 1. Sterling each ; fcvft
none of thefe arc included in the above valuation.
Of Glenmuick) Tullocb, and Gkngaim. a 2 1
L. ih. d. L, fh. v d,
A woman makes for Value of beft fheep, 014 o
fpinning flax a- Ordinary ditto, 076
week, - 030 Worft ditto, • 034
Meal the boll, at an Cattle, at an average, 3 10 o
average, - o 15 o Horfes, at an average, 5 o o
B, F. P. B. F. P.
Produce of oats, the Produce of bear, the
boll, - 300 boll, - 4*0
Valued rent of the three parifhes, 3384 1, 16 s. 8d. Scots
money,
Poort Sec. — The poors funds here, are the intereft of 160I.
mortified money, which is lent out at 5 per cent*, the weekly
collections, and an annual donation from Invercauld, of from
10 1. to 12 1. Sterling. From which 93 poor receive aid. A
JVlrs. Elizabeth Farquharfon, late of Jamaica, and a native of
the parifh of Tulloch, bequeathed at her death, which hap-
pened between 20 and 30 years fince, 400 1. Sterling for the
benefit of the poor here, and the like fum to keep a fchool
and fchoolmafter in thefe parifhes. There were 4 tmftees ap-
pointed to execute this part of her will ; but fomchow or
other it was negle&ed for upwards of 20 years, when at lafl
one of the tmftees who had friends in Jamaica, recovered the
400 1. of principal, and 200 1. of intereft ; and the 600 1. have
now been in the bank at Aberdeen for feveral years ; but the
parifhes have as yet received no benefit from them. It fure-
ly could not have been the intention of the teftator, that the
money fhould be fo long in being applied to the purpofes it
was defigned for.
Ghnmuici
222 Siatijlical Account
Glenmuick Pari/b. — Glean muc, are two Gaelic words, which
fignify the u Sow's Valley," from which it fhould fcem, that
that animal had fome time run wild here, as none are now
kept by the inhabitants. This parifh is about 15 miles in
length, and lies entirely on the S. fide of Dee. The prefent
jnanfe and glebe Hand in this parifh on the N. bank of the
fmall river Muick, about 200 yards from its jun&ion with
the Dee. The manfe is an old houfe, fmall, but in tolerable
repair. The glebe, by a late addition, contains 6± acres.
The ftipend, including the fmall tithes of the parifli of Tul-
loch, 1S67I. 12 s. Sterling, all in money. The church1 of
Glenmuick Hands clofe by the manfe. It is a very old houfe
thatched with heath. It feems to have been dedicated to the
Virgin Mary, from an annual meeting of the inhabitants on
Candlemas day. There is a parochial fcbool here, with a
falary of xoo merks in money. The fmall river Muick takes
its rife in the Grampian hills, from a large lake or loch of
the fame name, S. W. of the church, and after forming a
large water-fall, called' the Lin of Muick, is loft in the Dee,
after a courfe of xo miles. Acrofs the Muick, and near the
church, there is a very ufeful and fubftantial ftone bridge of
one arch, built about 50 years ago by fubfcription, and about
half a mile below the church, a beautiful bridge of three
large arches ; and a fmall one at each end, called the Bridge
of Ballatar, was lately built by fubfcription, and other contri-
butions, under the patronage of the late Francis Farquharfon,
Efq. of Monaltrie ; a gentleman who has left many lafting
monuments of his public fpirit in this country. In this pa.
xi(h are the celebrated wells of Pananich, on the N. fide of
a hill of the fame name, about 2 miles E. of the church *.
They
* They were difcovered accidentally to be of ufc, about 33 years fince, by
am old woman lrring in the neighbourhood, who had for many yean been dif-
tref&d
QfGknmuicki Tullocb, andGkngairn* 0,2 ;£
They are a mineral of a very agreeable tafte, light water, and
allowed to be of ufe in gravelifb, fcorbutic, and fcrofulous
complaints. The wells being the property of the gentleman^
already mentioned (Mr. Farquharfon) he cleared out the
fprings, which are three, and covered them j and ere&ed not
only feveral houfes upon the fpot for the accommodation of
the water drinkers, as a public and private bath, an o&agqn
for the better fort to retire to, and feveral houfes for flicker-
ing the poor j but alfo built a large and commodious houfe
called Pananich Lodge, pleafantly fituated upon the banks of
the Dee, about a mile W. of the wells, containing a largo
public room, and a number of private ones,, with accommo-
dation for fervants and horfes, which, with a tolerable farm,
and the houfes at the wells, is let to a landlady at 50 1. year-
ly, who has the good fortune to give univerfal fatisfa&ioa to
the company who vifit her. Mr. Farquharfon likewife made
out good roads on both fides of the wells to the public road :
nor did he confine himfelf to this fpot ; he paid particular at-
tention to the roads wherever he had the leaft concern ; he
made new, repaired old ones, and threw ftone arches over
feveral fmall, but rapid rivulets, which, when flooded, were
often impaffable, at fii* own private expenfe. In a word,
pollened
treffed with fcrofulous fores ; and who, after being reduced almoft to the Iaft
flage of weaknefs and decrepitude, took a fancy (for (he had no expectations
' of a cure) toscrawl upon her crutches every good day to the wells, which were
then a bog remarkable only for the blueilh fcum on the-iurface of the water;
here (be bathed her fores, and laid rags dipped in the water upon them ; and
-perfevering in this courfe for fome time, (he was agreeably furprifed to fee her
fores heal up, and to find her health and ftrcngth return. This brought the
wells into immediate repute. And the country people abfurdly imagined that
they were an' infallible cure for every diforder, and perfons under all complaints
crowded to them ; fatal experience, however, foon taught them that they were
hoftilc to confumptive habits.
424 Stati/iicat Account
poffefled of an ample fortune and generous mind, he employ-*
ed both in improving his country *.
Itftllocb Part/b. — Tulloch is a corruption of Tulacb, a Gaelic
-word, fignifying " rifing grounds or hillocks ;w and is very de-
fcriptive of the fmall village of Tulloch, which gives name
to the church and parifli. The church is faid to have been
founded by St. Nethalen, and an annual meeting of the in-
habitants is regularly kept on the 8th of January, in honour
of his memory. It is termed the Mother Church, and (lands
(as the whole parifli does) on the N. fide of Dee, about 2
miles N. E. of the church of Glenmuick. This parifh is the
moft populous and extenfive of the 3, and by a lid of the re-
ligious houfes in Scotland, feems to have belonged in whole,
lor in part, to the Knights Templar. It is 18 miles in length
from E. to W., and iriterfe&ed at the Crags of Ballatar, by
the parifh of Glengairn, which divides the lower parts of
Tulloch from the upper. It does not appear that there has
been any fettled miniiter, particularly in this parifh, fince the
laft Fopifli Prieft, of the name of Sandifon, who is faid to
have conformed at the Reformation, and afterward married :
fome of his pofterity are ftill in the neighbourhood. The
glebe and toft of the manfe are ftill pointed out 5 but the rai-
nifter now has no benefit from either. In the lower end of
this
* Mificllaneous Obfervations.-^Vhsxt are two ruins in this parifli, the one
ftands about a mile N. W. of the church called the Caftle of the Cnoe, a Gaelic
word, fignifying a hill upon the top of which the ruin ftands. It belongs to Mr.
Gordon of Abergeldie, and is of a very old date. The other ftands in the E.
extremity of the parilh called Dee Caftle, formerly Candacorl, the Head of the
Wood, faid to be built by the family of Gordon, and now the property of the
Earl of Aboyne. There is a birch tree growing in a room of the ruin where
the firfl Marquis of Huntly is faid to have been born. It is faid, that there is
a rock of coarfc warble in the hill above Pananich Lodge, and another aboter
Birkhall.
CfGUnmuick, Tuffocb) and Glengairn. a* j
this parifli, and at the foot of the hill of Culbkan, there is a
beautiful lake of about 3 miles in circumference! called Loch
Cannor, containing feveral fmall iflands, upon the largeft of
which, there flood formerly a fmall fortrefs, faid to have been
built, and occafionallj occupied as a hunting feat by Malcolm
Canmore ; from whom, it is not improbahle, the lake might
have got its name ; as Cannor is not far in found from Can*
more. In this fortrefs, many of the Cumings took flielter af-
ter their defeat in the famous battle of Cuiblean, fought be-
tween them and the troops of King David Bruce in 1335.
There is now no appearance of the fortrefs, the ftones are all
cleared out and thrown into the furroundtng lake ; and the
ifland, which meafures near an acre, is under culture* The
people in the neighbourhood, fome years fince, were in ufe
to drag up large planks of oak from the bottom of that part
of the lake between the ifland and main land on the N. fide,
evidently part of a draw-bridge which connc&ed the ifland
with the land ; the wood was perfeftly frefh and wholefome ;
and upon one of the planks there was this date, 11 13, which
is now in the pofieffion of a gentleman in this neighbourhood.
There is another ifland fmaller than the former, and at fome
diftance from it, which tradition fays, was the prifon of the
eaftle, and which goes to this day by the name of the Tol-
booth. The principal ifland where the fortrefs or caftle Hood,
is about 60 or 70 yards diftant from the land 4 and the water
between them, where the draw- bridge was, is 16 feet deep.
The lake abounds with pike and eels. Wild ducks, wild
geefe, and fometimes fwans, frequent it in winter* There is
a done fe( on its end on the N. bank of the lake fronting the
caftle, with a great deal of carving upon it ; but the figures
are now unintelligible. It is told, that it was put up in me-
mory of fome of the Cumings who fell in the chafe or battle
Vol. XII. Ff of
226 StatiJIical Account
of Culblean, and as the Earl of Athole fell that day, it may
have been here *.
Glengairn Pari/b. — Glengairn is a corruption of 3 Gaelic
words, glean, " a valley or hollow,'* and garbh amhatn, ** the
rough water,,? which are very properly applied to the water of
Gairn, the channel of which, in many places is exceedingly
rocky • The church ftands on the N. fide of Dee, and at the
influx of the Gairn into that river about 2 miles W. of Tul-
loch, and nearly the fame diftance N. of the church of Glen-
muick. This church feems to haye been dedicated to St*
Mungo, from an annual meeting of the parifhioners on the
13th of January. Some fay, that this was a feparate charge
about the middle of the laft century, when a Mr* Alexander
Gordon, a proprietor in the parifli, was minifter ; but neither
the glebe, nor where the manfe flood, can now be pointed
out. This parifh is the leaf}, and moil compafi of the 3.
The greateft part of it lies upon both banks of the Gairn,
extending 6 miles N. W. of the church, where the upper
parts of Tulloch begin and feparate it from the parifh of
Crathie. A fmall part of it lies on the S. fide of Dee, call-
ed
* In the fore mentioned hill cf Culblean, there is a moil remarkable hollow
rock, which, from its fliape, bears the name of the Vatt, and through which
a rivulet runs. In going up to vifit this natural curiofity, a ft ranger is much
flruck with the narrownefe of the entry to the Vatt (being lefs than an ordi-
nary door) and the large fpacious area, in which he immediately finds himfelf
enclofei by rocks from 50 to 60 feet high, and from the fiflures of which tall and
healthy birch trees are growing. There is one particular clift of the rock
which the eagle generally occupies as a fafe and fecure afylum for hatching and
nouriflung her young, and where her neft is always to be feen. The rivulet
falls down at the upper end through broken lhattered rocks, and when flooded
adds greatly to the piclurefque appearance of the whole. The moft remark,
able hill in this, or the 3 parifhes, is Morven, which in Gaelic fignifies a large
hill ; and the well known crags or Pais of Ballatar, where the tremendous im-
pending rocks threaten the aftonifhed traveller with immediate definition,
Of Glenmmck, Tuttocb, and Glengairn. 227
ed Strathgirnie. ' There are 2 of the Society's fchools in this
parifli, and are an unfpeakable advantage to the people. I
am told that 60 or 70 years ago, it wa9 rare to find one in
all thefe three parilhes who could read. But now all the
young people read diftinftly, and underftand the principles of
religion ; and many of the young men leave fohool, and im-
mediately enter as clerks to commercial companies in diffe-
rent corners of the world. And it is but juft to obferve, that
much of this is owing to the labours of Mr, George Thom-
fon, who has ferved the Society about 50 years, during which
time he has taught, with, the greatcft honour to himfelf, and
advantage to his pupils. The people, in general, have got a
tafte for education, and as the parifhes are extenfive, they
engage young men to teach in the winter feafon in thofe
places which are at a diftance from the eftablilhed fchools.
Three young men, engaged by the people, taught in different
corners this laft winter*
Mifcellaneous Obfervations. — At the church of Glengairn,
(here is a very old ftone bridge of one arch over Gairn, and
there is another over the fame river at the N. W. extremity
of the parifh, and 6 miles from the former, built by Go-
vernment upon one of the Highland roads j both are in good
repair. There is another of one arch over the burn of Gir-
nie, built a few years fmce by fubfeription. There is a river
in the lower end of this parifli, near the Pais of Bajlatar,
called the Cattle of Glengairn. It belonged to the family o(
Forbes, and was ufed as a hunting feat. It is now the pro-
perty of the Earl of Aboyne— A Popifh Prieft refides in this
pariflj, and performs divine worihip every 2d Sunday, in a
chapel built for the purpofe.— It is believed there is a lead*
mine near the caftle of Glengairn ; many pieces of lead have
been found ; but from the expenfe of working it, no exer-
F f a tiona
228 Stati/lieal Actount
tions have been made to find out the vein of the metal. There
is plenty of limc-ftone in this and the other two parishes; but
from the difficulty of getting fuel, there is not much of it
burnt. The mountains in the 3 pariihes are all -covered with
heath, and the bottoms of many of them beautifully fringed
with natural wood and plantations. Plots of natural birch,
oak, afh, alder, &c. are interfperfcd among the arable fields $
Which, with the rivers, give the country a very pleafant ap-
pearance in fummer. The hills afford plenty of moor game,,
particularly Morven, upon the higheft grounds of which,
ptarmagans are always to be found *.
NUM.
* The moft remarkable of die other wild creatures^ are red and roe deer,
foxes, badgers, wild cats, polecats, martins, weafels, otters, white and grey-
hares ; eagles and lefler hawks ; the black cock, wood cock, wood pecker, plo-
vers, partridges, otc. with a great variety of finging birds.
The charge is ferved by the miniftcr, and -a mifiionary minifter, who has a
falary of 25 1. from the Committee on the Royal Bounty. And, betides the 3
churches, there is another place of worfhip at the upper bridge of Gairn, where
the miulonary is appointed by the Committee to preach every ad Sabbath ; and'
by thefe means there can be fermon but once in the 2 weeks in each of the places
of worfhip, which is very much complained of by the people. But, as a cen-
trical church would remove this grievance, fo no place can be better adapted
for one ; for the 3 churches immediately form nearly an equilateral triangle of
s miles each fide ; and if a large houfe fhould be built near the middle of this
angle, the bulk of the 3 parishes would be accommodated with fermon every
Sabbath, and the mifiionary would preach in the remote corners. This plan,
has been long in the view of the heritors ; and, as 2 of the churches are goiifg,
fait into difrepair, it is to be hoped they will foon carry it into execution.
€f Kinghorn. az$
NUMBER XIX.
TOWN and PARISH of KINGHORN.
(Coitxty and Synod of Fife, Presbttert of Kirkcaldt.)
By tie R/v. Mr. John Usher*
- -
»
Situation, Name, Extent, Soil, &c.
THE town of Kinghorn, is pleafantly fituated upon a de-
clivity on the N. fide of the Frith of Forth, nearlj
oppofite to the town of Leith, and diftant from it about 7
miles. At what time this town was firft built, it is perhaps,
impoifible for us> at prefent, to determine. It is not impro-
bable, that the aborigines of the country, would fettle here,
at a very early period, for the conveniency of fifhing *, even
before either commerce, or agriculture, or pafturage, had
become objects of attention to their uncultivated minds. How-
ever this may be, it is next to certain, that when Edinburgh
began to rife into a capital, and to become a place of refort,
fifhermen
• There was formerly a confiderabk quantity of fiih caught between the
town of Kinghorn and the* ifland of Inch-Keith ; but of late the fiih have re-
tired nearer to the mouth of the frith.
a 3a Statiftical Account
fiihermen and faitors would naturally be induced to build and
take up their refidence here for the fake of ferving the paf-
fage between Fife and Leith, the port of Edinburgh *. With
refpeft to the origin of the name of this town, we have not
been able to difcover any thing certain, and will therefore
venture to offer a conjecture. Upon a riling ground, imme-
diately behind the town, overlooking it, and commanding a
view of the whole Frith of Forth, from Kinghorn down-
wards, and of all the oppofite coaft, there formerly flood &
caftle, the ruins of which were very lately to be feen, which
was one of the ordinary feats of our ancient Kings. This
place of refidence was probably chofen by the Scottifh Mo-
narch s, not only for the fake of the profpeft which it com-
mands, and the falubrity of the air, but for the conveniency
and pleafure of hunting. For, tradition fays, and the names
of places in the neighbourhood confirm it (fuch as Woodfield-
park, and Kingfwood-end f) that the ground behind the
town, and to the weftward, was once covered with wood.
From the winding, therefore, of the King's horn, when fal-
lying out with his attendants to take the diverfion of tha
chafe,
* In confirmation of this, we may otfcrve, that the part of the town which
ftands upon the fea-fliore, and ncareft to the harbour, is evidently the oldeft.
So early, as about the middle of the 1 ith century, in the reign of Duncan I.
we are informed that Canutus King of Norway, fent s large fleet with 0000.
men, commanded by his brother, who landing at Kinghorn, over-ran and ra-
vaged the adjacent country ; but that M'Beath, Thane of Fife (with whofe
character and hiftory every admirer of the inimitable Shakefpeare muft be in
fc>me meafure acquainted) attacked and defeated them with great daughter,
forcing the farvivors to retire to their mips. It was not,, however, till near*,
century after this, that the town of Kinghorn was inverted with the privileges^
of a royal burgh, by King David I.
+ Woodfield-park, Kingfwood-end. The former of thefe is a farm about
a mile to the W. of the town, the latter is a high aBd rugged rock, at much.'
about the fame diftance from the town, and on the fame fide o& it, where King^
Alexander HI. was killed by a fall from his horfe when hunting in. this foreft.
1
Of Kinghorn. 231
chafe, the town of Kinghorn may have* derived the name
which it ftill bears.
The parifh of Kinghorn is about 4 miles in length, and 3!
in breadth. It is bounded by the Frith of Forth on the S.
and E. *. Few places are more beautifully diverfified than
the face of this parifh. It exhibits, it is true, neither lofty
mountains nor deep valleys ; neither high hills, nor exten*
five plains ; but there is a variety of foil and of furface, and
an undulation of ground, which is very feldom to be met
with. The long extended fides of little hills covered with
furze, ever-green, and almofl always in bloom, or planted
with young and thriving trees of different kinds ; the rich
and fertile land that lies between the great number of gen-
tlemen's feats and farmer's houfes, with trees and enclofures
around them, and with here and there a ruin interfperfed, as
mementos of the viciffitude of human things, prefent to the
eye a moft pidurefque and fanciful fcene, and produce upon
the imagination the fineft effect. The foil is, in general, very
good, being moftly a rich black earth upon a rotten rock.
Along the fea-coaft, for upwards of 2 miles, it is deep,
ftrong, and fertile in the higheft degree. As you retire from
the fea, it gradually becomes more and more light and (hal-
low, for about a mile, as the ground rifes. Behind this,
the ground begins to fall, and the nature of the foil becomes
more variable, being fome of it inclined to clay, upon a
whin-ftone bottom, but moft of it, thin and light upon a dry
gravel. Almoft every where throughout the whole parifh,
it is fjiarp and very fertile, when properly managed.
. Antiquities, Natural Curiofities, and Mineral Waters.—*
There can fcarcely be faid to be any antiquities within the
bounds
• The extent of fea-coaft is about 3 Englifli miles, the greater part of it 19
Jy'gh and rocky, and produces very little kelp.
23 * Statlftical Account
bounds of this parifl), unlcfs perhaps the ruinous tower of
Seafield, the ancient feat of the Moutrays, /which (lands upon
the fea-fliore, about a mile to the eaftward of Kinghorn j and
St. Leonard's tower, which ftands in the middle of the town,
which, in times of Popery was a place of worihip, but is
sow converted into a town-houfe and common prifon, defervc
to be fo called. Glammis tower, a feat of our ancient kings,
already alluded to, is now no more ; and as for the monaf?
tery which ftood fomewhere about the bottom, of the tow*,
there is not fo much as a vcftige of it to be feen, and even
the place where once it was, cannot be afcertained. At a
Jittle diftance from the ruins of Seafield tower, there i? a
large cave, which appears either to have been formed by
fame violent concuffion of the earth, or to have been exca<»
vated by the fea, which has fince retired. There is the ap-
pearance of fome kind of building having been, once at its
entrance ; but whether it had been thus fortified and fecured
as a place of refuge from the fudden defcent* of the Danes
and Norwegians, with which this coaft was formerly fo much
infefted, or, as a den for thieves and robbers, and as a place
for concealing their ill-got booty, we have not been able to
difcover. About halfway between Kinghorn and the Petty.
cur *, clofe by the fea, there is a fpecimen of the Bafaltes,
which well defcrves the attention of the curious, who may
not have had an opportunity of furveying thofe more ftu-
pendous works of nature of the fame kind, the Giants Caufe-
way, in the county of Antrim in Ireland, or the rock Pere*
neire near St. Sandoux in Auvergne, in France. The Bafal-
tic columns are of different diameters, with between 4, 5, 6,
j, faces. They are, in general, about 12 or 14 feet in
height,
• Petty-cur, a fmall harbour for the pafiage-boats at tbe diftance of about
J of a mile from the town, to the S. W.
Of Kingborn. 233
Txelght, with a few joints or cracks in each, all parallel to
one another, and inclining towards the fca, to the E. The
fiream of lava, of which this mafs of matter is compofed,
appears to hare flowed from W. to E., and pouring into the
fea, in this dire&ion, from its impulfe and refiftance, to have
cooled, and ihryftalized, and taken the eafterly inclination
which it holds. At a little diftance from the Petty-cur, there
is a medicinal fpring, commonly called the Kinghorn Spa *-
Upon Inch-Keith, a fmsdl ifland about half way between
Kinghorn and Leith, and which is confidered as belonging to
this pariih, then are the ruins of a fort which was in repair
in the reign of Mary Queen of Scotland, and which was then
garrifbacd with French foidiers.
Papulations— Upon comparing the late with the prefent
ftate of die population of this parifh, the number of inhabi-
tants appears to have decreafed to a confiderable degree. Re-
cording to the returns made to Dr. Wobfter in the 1755, the
number of (mils within the bounds of this pariih, was 2389.
It now amounts to no more than 1768, including perfons of
Vol. XII. , G g every
** Id the year 16x8, the celebrated Dr. Anderfon, inventor of the pills that
ftillgo bar W* n**M, wrote a Treattfe upon the nature and properties of this wa-
fer, with diftt&ioas lor ufing it.
It is impregnated, he fays, with chryftal, gyffam, and nitre; is a power&l
diuretic, gives vigour and ftrongth to debilitated conftitatwns, relieves fuch as
are troubled with a di&culty of breathing, and alUyeth all iaflaniinations in.
ttroal and external ; that It ought to be taken iu the owning fading, and
taken at the rock from which it uTues.
But} jar farther particulars, both with refpeel to the nature and properties -of
this waller, and the way of ufing it, we muft refer the reader to the forefsid
Treattfe. We wall only add, that Dr. Anderfoo concludes his account of it,
with, informing us, that in his time, " this fair fpring" was much frequented ;
and that he himfcif had many opportunities of observing its lalutary efie&s,
from his attending patients that were drinking the water.
«34 Statiftical Account
every age and denomination *. Of the prefent inhabitants of
this pariih, there are 1118, that refide in the town, and 653
that dwell in thfe country, and in a village called the Bridge-
town, about a miles N. E. from Kinghorn. Of thefe, there
are 1237 that adhere to the Eftablifhed Church, the remain-
ing 531, are Seceders of different denominations, but moftly
Burghers. Of the whole body of the people, both in the
town and country, there are, under 10 years of age, 401 ;
between 10 and 20, 321 ; between 20 and 50, 778; between
50 and 70, 240 : and between 70 and 100, 28- The number
of married people amounts to 610 j of bachelors, to 295 ; of
unmarried women from the age of 15 and upwards, to 323 j
of widows, to 102 ; and of widowers, to 33. The number
of marriages for the laft 10 years, amounts, at an average,
to 13 ; and that of births, to 30 annually. To account for
the feeming difproportion between, the marriages and births,
and the population of this pariih, we may obferve, that there
are annually, feveral irregular marriages, and feveral bap-
tifms (particularly among the Seceders) that are not entered
in the pariih regifter. The inhabitants of the town, and of
the village called Bridgetown, are moftly failors, weavers,
tradefmen.
* As we do not find^ that by the return given in to Dr. Wdjfter, above men;.
tion:d, a diftinction was made between the population of the town, and of the
country, it is impoffible for us now to difcover with certainty, where the de-
ficiency lies ; whether in the one, or in the other ; or fuppofing it in both, in
what proportion- it has taken place. We are difpofed to think that it is prin-
cipally in the latter ; and that it may be accounted for, from the following
caufes :— iftt From the diminution of landed proprietors refiding in the parifli ;
feveral fmall eftates having been fwallowed up by the larger, zdly, ^rom the
union of farms. ydly9 And principally from the expulfioir of cottagers, and
from the employing of hired fervants in their ftead, for carrying on the opera-
tions of husbandry. What the town may have loft in refpect of population, front
the decay of its trade, we confider a* compenfated by the growth of manufac*.
tures, as will afterward appear under the article of commerce.
Of Kingbom. 235
-tradefmen, innkeepers, and horfe-hirers ; thofe of the coun-
try, farmers, their children, and fervants, who ar$ employed
in agriculture.
Eccfyiqftkal State, Stipend, Poor, \3c. — There are two pla-
ces of public worfhip in the town of Kinghorn 5 the parifh
church, and a Burgher- feceder meeting-houfe. The Earl o£
Strathmore is patron of the parifh. The ftipend confifts of 3
chalders of viftual, half meal, half bear, and 58 1. 6 s. 8 d. in
money, together with 4 loads of coal, deliverable at the manfe,
and the teind of the fifli. The laft of thefe articles has fail*,
ed entirely, as there is no more at prefent, but one family of
filhers in the town, and the quantity of fiih caught £b fmall,
that the teind thereof is not worth the trouble or expenfe of
collecting it.
There is alfo mentioned in the decreet of' modification and
locality of the ftipend of Kinghorn, 14J. loads of coal at the
pit of Garden ; but as this pit is not now wrought, this part
of the living has likewife failed. The glebe confifts of very
little more -than 3^ acres of arable ground, with 10 s. a-year
to compea&te for the deficiency of meafure ; and about an a-
cre of grafs, which lets at 16 s. 8 d. The manfe is old, but
got a thorough repair about 3 years ago, at a very confider-
able expenfe. The church was rebuilt in 1774. The flaell
of the houfe is refpeftable enough ; but within, it has rather
an awkward and paltry appearance, from its not being as yet
completely feated, and from the mixture of new, and of old
pews and forms *.
€ga The
• The Burgher meeting-houfe was built about 16 years ago, partly by difia-
tiified and difcontented Seceders ; and partly by people belonging to the £fta-
blilhed Church in this place, who did not think that the late incumbent, Dr.
Iflfebfter, was fafficiently warm in his zeal againft the Popiih bill, which raifed
■frch a none and clamour in this part of the country at that period.
Jhi*
236 Statiftical Account
The number .of poor is great, and the funds for fuppotting
them are, comparatively, but fmall. There are commonly be*
tween 60 and 80 upon the poor's roll ; and for maintaining
thefe, the whole fam to be diftributed annually by the church*
feffion, does not amount to 40 1. This fam arifes partly from
the intereft of legacies left for the behoof of the poor ; and
partly from the colle&ions that are made for them at the door
of the parifh church. The legacies amount to 500 1., 400 h
of which was bequeathed by the Rer. Mr. Henry, tninifter
of this parifb, before the late Dr. Webfter ; and 100 1. by a
gentleman of the name of Shanks, who lived in Kinghorn ;
for both which, the church-fcffion receives annually (at the
rate of 4 per cent, intereft) the fam of 10 f. The yearly col-
le&ions do not come to quite fo much ; and of this the land-
ed proprietors contribute but a very fmall proportion, as the
greateft part of them do not refide in the parift, and as moft
of thofe that do, dwell at a diftance from the parifh church.
The mod which any pauper in the parifh receives, (and in-
deed which the church-fcffion have it in their power to give,
as the heritors have not as yet agreed to affefs themfelves for
the maintenance of the poor) is t s. a»month ; and perhaps
33. 6 d. more at ejtchof the quarterly diftributtans. This
(canty
This houfe wis at firft connected with what is called the Pretoytery of Re-
lief; upon which footing it flood, til} withia thefe few years, when the propri-
etors of the houfe, finding their nttetmg ufo* the decline, and The feat-rents
and collections unequal to the ezpenfe of fupporting a clergyman, and of pay-
ing the intereft of the money which they had advanced, they very prudently
agreed to change their ground, to join themfelves to the Burgher Seceders, and
to gtre S call to a licentiate of that dertjainatioB. The talk of what remain-
ed of their ftatteted congregation weat along with them, and they were joined
by others** ate Came daft or ltd, reading in the taw* and its fseighbouVhooi.
Amidft all thefe manoeutrtsaf their leaders, howem, the name 4f a patten was
not heard of. And it waa all very well.
Of Kinghorn. *yj
fcanty fapply is erideotlj inadequate to the exigencies of fttch
•s are unable to work ; the confequence of which is, that they
flmft ekhor beg, or ileal, or ftarve. What others receive it
proportionally left; and thua, even the labour of filch as could
do a little, were the deficiency *f their earnings to be made tip
to them by regular fuppliee, is loft to the community, from
their being forced by neceffity to have recoutfe to begging ;
after which, every idea of labour and tnduftrv is at an end *.
Cemmtrct and Man*f*&nres<~Tht town of Ktngborn has
2 harbours ; one at the bottom of the town, which is called
the Kirk-harbour, from its vicinity to the church, which
ftands upon a point of land clofeby it j and another called the
Petty-cur, at about half a mile's difyanc* from the town to
the S. W. The former of thefe is of very ancient date : How
old
• And here, by the way, we cannot help observing, that tegacJn left far turn
behoof of the poor, at leaft in parifhet, where the lawt with refpeeT: to the main*
teaance of the poor is not enforced, have a tendency to defeat the very end far
which they were bequeathed. For that, trailing to.thefe, the heritors of fuck
parimes, ate ftp* to ncgleA what the law, what res/on, what religion and ha~
inanity fo loudly call upon them for, via. " to confider the cause of the poor.**
We would not be underftood, from what we have here (aid, either to condemn,
or difcourage the donations of the charitable at the time of their death, to the
poor of parUhes to which they may belong, or to which they may be attached ;
paly let them be left in fuch a way, as to be distributed immediately, and not be
hung up, fo at to intercept that provision which the wifdom and benevolence of
our Legislature has made for them. Having had occafion to mention legacies* .
we may here obferye, that the forefaid Mr. Henry bequeathed the fum of 300 1.
for the purpofe of founding a buriary, fo affift young men, in the profecution of
their ftndies, at the Unfverfity of St Andrew's. The nomination of the burfar
is veiled in $ bodies of men ; the tnagifirates and town-council of Kinghorn,
the kirk-feffion of Kinghorn, and the prefoytery of Kirkcaldy. Each of thefe j
bodies choofe a delegate out of their own number ; the delegates meet by ap-
pointment of the minifter of Kinghorn, and, after having examined the qualifi-
cations of the caadidatef, proceed to the election. The borfar enjoys his bene-
#ce for 4 years.
%
238 Statijlical Account
old it is, we cannot certainly fay. The latter was built about
50 years ago, as being a more convenient fituation than that
of the former, for the paflage over to Leith. This harbour
was lately very much choked up, and in danger of being loft,
from the great quantity of fand continually drifting from the
W. at low water, with the wefterly winds, and accumulating
within it. But by means of % bafons, the largeft of which
was only finifhed within thefe few months, (the former hav-
ing been found infufficient for the purpofe), it is now thought
that this bank of fand will be completely removed, and the
harbour be kept clear of it, and open for the future. With-
in thefe few months alfo, there has been a light-houfe ereded
Upon the end of this key, for the benefit of the paflage-boats.
It is, however, the opinion of many, that had the money
which has been expended upon the Petty- cur, and its bafons,
been laid out upon the extending of the key, and upon the
otherwife improving of the old harbour, not only all the pur-
poses of the Ferry might have been equally well anfwered,
but a fafe and capacious bafon might have been formed, for
the admiffion of (hips of considerable burthen. As they are
at prefent, neither the one nor the other will admit veflels of
above 150 tons. Should ever Kinghorn become a great ma-
nufa&uring and commercial town, this plan might ftill be put
in execution. Hitherto, it cannot be faid to have ever been
either. Formerly, indeed, there were a few brigs, and feve-
ral (loops belonging to this town ; but thefe were generally
either freighted by merchants refiding in other places, or en-
gaged in fxnuggling. At prefent there are only two fmall
{loops employed in the coafting trade, that fail from this port,
with 9 paflage-boats, of about 50 or 60 tons each, and a few
pinnaces that ply the ferry. As for manufa&ures, though
till of late, fince the introdu&ion of flocking-frames, there
was, for a long time, a confiderable quantity of thread-flock*
inga
" Of Kittgborn. 239
trigs, manufactured annually by the women, with the kitting-
needle, yet it was always but an unprofitable, and poor em-
ployment. Within thefe few years, however, a manufacture
has fprung np, which promifes fair at prefent to render King-
horn one of the mod flourHhing towns upon the cuaft of Fife;
this is, the teafing, and rolling, and fpinning of cotton and flax,
by means of the Arkwright and Darlington machinery*
Through the middle of the town there runs a ftream of wa-
ter, which iflues from a lake called the looh of Kinghorn, and
diftant from it only about half a mile. Upon this ltream
there have already been ere&ed, and £tt a-going, 4 mills for the
purpofes above mentioned ; a fifth is- to be built this fummer,
and there might ftill be falls of water found for 1 or 2 more*
The number of hands which thefe mills will employ, muft
amount to foime hundreds ; but the a fergeft of them, which
were built laft feafon, owing to the {hock which has been late-
ly given to public credit, and the consequent ftagnation of all
bufinefs, have not as yet been completely fitted up, and filled
with machinery by the proprietors. Before adventuring too far;
they wifli to fee what turn affairs may take. Already, how-
ever, the beneficial efie&sof thefe works are to be fcen by all;
and they are fenfibly felt by almoft every description of peo-
ple in the place.
Toung women, who before were not able to earn by the
needle, or by the knitting of ftockings, or by the fpinning of
flax, above is. 6 d. or 2 s. in the week, can now eafily earn
between 5 s. and 7 &» 6 d. in the fame fpace of time. Little
girls, between 8 and 12 years of age, who before were a bur-
then to their fathers and mothers, by engaging at thefe works,
are not only able to fupport themfelves, but to afM their aged
and indigent parents. The boys, who before thought of no-
thing but the fea, or of running about idle, or, which was lit*
tie better, of running about the country at the horfes*s heels,
as
44* Stafj/Iicai Account
as boric-hirers fervants* have now generally turned their 4t*
tendon to due loom, and bind themfelves «s apprentices to th*
wearer. &ach are thceffo&s of capital well employed ! Such
are the effcds of regular and well dire&cd induftry ! Bat the
command of water for working machinery, is not the only
advantage which gingham enjoys : Befides the ftfeam alrca*
dy mentioned, there ana two other rivulets, one at each end
of the town, bjroaeans of which Meachfidds might be Corned,
and, it is to ho hoped, wil^in a little time be formed, for far*
ther facilitating die operations of the manufacturer.
"As a beginning has now been fairly made ; as a fpirit of
jodnftry and of enterprife has now been rou&d, by the exer-
tions of a few a&ive individuals, it is to be hoped, (feat k
wiU continue to fpread, and will foon begin to operate in o-
ther directions. The cheapnefs of coal for foci, and of lima
for building ; its vicinity to the fea, and to the capital of this
paitjof the kingdom, might alfo have been .mentioned among
die advantages which Kinghorn derives from its local fili-
ation*
lAfiJiaUfrj, Rem mmi Divifion of Lzmd.~-Thc number of
landed proprietors in this pariflt is 13 ; bat by for the greater
part of them do not refide in it. There is 00 map of the pa-
rifli ; by confequence, the nnmber of acres which it contains
cannot bo exaftly afcertained. But they amount; to nearly
§050 arable, and 340 inarable. The gteateft part of the lat-
ter is hilkgtound, either covered with furze, or planted with
ticcs. Of the former, there are, at an average, 170 acres an*
nuatty employed in raifing wheat, 397 in barley, ai 1 in peafo
mid beans, which are commonly fown in drills ; 749 in oats*
14S in potatoes, ixo in turnip, 328 in hay, 836 in peAure,
and 100 lying in fummer fallow. The quantity of flax fowa
is fb inoonfiderable, as not to be worth the mentioning. A
great
5
Of Klnghorn. 241
great part of the land of this parifh is now enclofed, either
with hedge and ditch, or, what is called Galloway-dike. The
' farms are, in general; from 8b 1. to 200 1. a«yearf confifting
of between 60 and 150 or aoo acres* The bed arable ground
in the neighbourhood of the town, has, of late, let at 3 1., and
fome of it at *1. 10 s. an acre. At a diftance from the town
the average rent is about 1 1. 10 s. The belt pafturag* lets at
a 1. 5 sM and the inferior kind, from 15 9. to 1 1. t is the acre.
The valued rent of the whole parifh is 13,280 1. x8s. ad.
Scotch ; the real rent about 5000 1. Sterling.
Hcrfts, Black Cattle, Ploughs and f^fV.— There are in this
parifh 150 horfes, including young horfes reared by the far-
iners in the country. About 70 of thefe horfes are kept by
people in the town for poft-chaifes, for letting out to hire, for
carrying coals, and for labouring a few acres of ground,
which moil of them endeavour to get in the neighbourhood.
There are 65 1 cows, and young cat tie (exclufive of cattle grated
in parks during the fftmmef), 99 carts and 91 ploughs, almoft
all of the Small-conftni&ion, and drawn by 2 horfes ; the old
Scottiih plough having now fatten into general difulc*.
Vol. XII; H h Sthoot.
* fVafes.—TTGm the rapid increafe of manufactures in this, and fome neigh*
touring pariflies, the price of labour of every kind has rifen to an uncommon,
height. The wages of a male fervant kept in the tymfe, are from 8 ]. to 10 1*
a-y ear ; thofe of female fervants are generally J 1. A labourer,,' lor the day*' gets
from t s. to z u 6 dM finding hit own pnmfiona : For mowing; and reaping, from
i s. 4 d. to % s., and fometimes % a. 6 d. Or, with bmsKfaJt and dinner, from
l s. to i s. ©* d. : And women from e d. to x t*f with the fame pwrnfiom.
£ffc&s of difcontbtuing Cottagers as Agriculture*— One bad efieA of this has
been already alluded to ; the decreafe of the papulation of the country. This
efieel begins now to be teh, and lamented by the tanner, particularly in the
neighbourhood of tfanum&uring towns, la this whole* paTtfh, where this de.
fcription
*4* Statiftical Actount
Scbdol.—Tht fchtfolmaftcr's (alary, paid wholly by the
town, is ioo merks Scotch ; the number of fcholars is about
60 ; the fees for teaching to read English, 1 s. 6 d. a* quarter,
reading and writing, a s., Latin, 2 s. 6 d., arithmetic, a s. 6d.
The fchoolmafter has alfo an official houfe, with a fmall gar-
den, provided for him by the town. And here, we cannot
\ help obfenring with regret, that a body of men, fo highly ufeful
to the community as country fchoolmafters, that a body of men,
from whofe fuccefsful labours Scotland has derived that repu-
tation for literature which flxe fo defervedly enjoys ; and upon
whofe future labours, the preservation of this reputation, and
the profperity of her fons, in every quarter of the globe, muft
in a great meafure depend, ihould be, in general, fo poorly
provided for by the country.— *" Sic vos, non vobis*"
Chara&er of tbt People— —The general chara&er of a peo-
ple commonly takes its complexion from their local situation,
their engagements and their purfuits. The public ferry may
juftly be confidercd as having been hitherto the ruin of King-
horn, both in refpe&of induftry and morals. It opens, it is true,
aneafy road to an immediate fubfiftence, but it introduces, at the
fame time, all thofe vices andmiferies to which people are ex-
pofed, Whofe time is not half occupied, whofe thoughts are never
1
turned I
frription of innocent and ufeful people was once fo numerous; there is only 1 farmer ,
who, patriarch-like, has continued this practice of employing and cheriihing the
cottager, in its full eiteut ; and in this, he is now become the envy of all his
neighbours around him ; efpecialy in bad harvefts, fuch as we have lately had,
when reapers could not be? tempted to come Scorn the towns even for high wa-
ges. There are other effects, which might likewifc be ftated, as anting from
- th~e«fubftitutidn of hired Servants in the place of Cottagers, viz. the diminution
of the quantity, and confequently the rife of the price of feveral ufeful article
•of life, fuch as batter, eggs, and poultry.
Of Kingbcrn. 243
turned towards theacquifition of capital, and whofe Idomloq&be*
jond the prefent moment. Drunkennefa, diffipation, and de-
bauchery in youth, poverty atid wretchednefs in old age ; and,
befides this, to fay nothing of the tendency of burgh-politics,
the fcum of the creation continually floating.here, cannot fail
to taint whatever it touches. All the banditti and vagabonds
of the country continually paffing and repaiftng through this
great thorough-fair, and occafionally flopping, and lodging for
days an^ weeks together, cannot fail to poifon the principles,
and to corrupt the morals of thofe with whom they mingle,
and among whom they neftle. Not but that there are ex-
ceptions to be found, even among thofe that are the moft ex-
pofed to thefe temptations. Not but that there are many
here, as fober, as indnftrious, and as refpedable in their fe-
veral ftations as in any other place. Even where the plague
rages with the grerfteft virulence, there are always fome that
efcape the fatal infe&ion. And here we muft do juftice to. a
clad of men, whom we have frequently had occafion to hear
reprefented as drunken, rude, and intblent to a proverb ; we
mean the boatmen. That fome fuch there are, we readily
admit ; but at the fame time we will venture to affirm, that
there is not in the ifland, nor perhaps in Europe, a public
ferry, where the watermen are, in general, inpre adive, more
civil, and mote obliging. If to the rough and infolent, they
fometimes behave with rudenefs, the fault, furely, is not en-
tirely theirs. To their {kill and activity, and even general
fobriety, it may, in fome meafure, be attributed, that there is
not an inilance of fo much as one of thefe boats having been
loft, within the memory of man, or even upon record. With
refpeft to the inhabitants of the country parilh, who are moft*
\j employed in the cultivation of land, we may obferve, that
{hey are, in general, a fober, induftrious, and charitable peo*
0 H h % pie,
6
244 Statj/lical Account
pie, fcveral of them intelligent and flulfui in their profeffiot,
and that, amidft all the corruption of rotten and lotting burghs
in the neighbourhood, they ftill retain much of that fimplici-
ty of life, and purity of manners, which renders paftoraj de*
fcxiption fo pleafing to contemplate*
NUM.
4"» *' *Ff
:■'■ ~ . > :
Of Cromarty, 345
NUMBER XX,
PARISH of CROMARTY,
^County or Cromarty, Synod of Ross, Presbytery of
Chanonry.)
By the Rtv. Mr. Robert Smith.
Name, Extent, Surface, Soil, He.
JTHHE want of accefe to any particular record, makes it dif-
-■" • ficnlt to trace, with accuracy, the etymology of tho
name Cromarty : it is generally allowed to be<3aelic, denot-
ing " crooked bay ;" and as this interpretation feems natural,
it may be concluded a pretty juft one. The Gaelic name of
the place is Crof* Ba9 or " crooked bay ;" the defcription of
the bay, on which the town is fituated, having a noble wind-
ing curve, evidently favours this etymology of the name*
The extent of this pariih is from 7 to 8 miles in length, and
from 1 to{4 in breadth. It is bounded by the bay of Cro-
marty on the N. j by the Murray Frith, and the pariih of
Roflmarkie on the E. and S. The town of Cromarty is built
on
346 Statiftical Account
on a neck or point of land, which fl retches out on a level with
the fea, there being a fimilar point on the oppofite fhore ex*
tending, in like manner, into the fea, as if tp meet it. There are
alfo two points of exaftly the fame description, a fhort way op
the bay, which, together, occafion the curvature in the appear-
ance of the bay mentioned above. Along the N. fide of the pa*
rifli, and immediately above the towp, tljere is a beautiful ver-
dant bank, extending from the eaftern to the weftern extremity of
the parifli ; the bulk of the arable land hangs over this bank,
in a floping manner, and prefers one uninterrupted corn*
field, without any eminence to intercept the view. To a
traveller riding through the parifli, by the public road to In*
vernefs, the arable land lies concealed, and the appearance of
the country is fla{ and mooriftu The town of ^Iromarty was
formerly a royal burgh, but was disfranchifed by an aft of
the Privy Council of Scotland, in confequence of an applica-
tion from Sir John Urquhart, proprietor of the eftate of Co*,
marty, to that purpofa* The foil about the town is fertile, of
a deep black mould ; it is, in general, however, remarkably
wet, owing to a hard pan,, or rocky fubftance in the bottom,
which prevents the water from finking beneath the furface.
The foil in the country part of the parifli k various ; it is al-
fo,? in general, wet, and the labour of the hirfbandman often mucb^
retarded, by confequence, in the fpring fcafon.
Natural CuruJUus. — Of thefe, this parifli is not very pro*
dudive ; it would, however, be adefeft in this account, were
no mention made of a large rock, confiderable in height,
which is termed " M'Farqohar's Bed.'* What renders this
rock remarkable, is the grandeur of an arch, which forms a
natural bridge under the rock, admitting the waves of the fea
to pals out and in with a tremendous appearance. A ftill
mare remarkable curiofity than the former, is a cove or ca-
vern
Of Cromarty* 447
verfi, formed in a rock clofe by the Tea*' having an entrance
fufficiently large to admit an ordinary fixed man. From the
roof and fides of this cavern, there is a continual dropping of
water, fome of which falls to the bottom of the cave, bnt by far
the greater quantity is quickly petrified into a white hard fub-
ftance, with which the roof and fides of the cavern are co-
vered, and make * beautiful appearance. This cavern is quite
acceflible, and is truly a curious phenomenon.
Climate, and Dijgqfcs*— The climate, is generally more mild
in the town and its vicinity, than above the bank and in the
country. Froft is frequently intenfe a mile or 2 from the
town, when k is little felt immediately around it. The cold
is moft piercing in this place, when the wind blows from the
JL,' which rufhea in as if by a funnel. There are no dif-
cafes peculiarly prevalent among the inhabitants. The poor-
er idafs have been much diflreffed at all times for want of
fuel, fcarce having had accefs to any other, than the fcanty
fuppty furnilhed from the thinnings of the fir plantations in
the neighbourhood of the town. It is to be hoped, that the
tax on coals now to be taken 0% will put that comfortable
fuel more within the reach of all ranks; it is beyond a doubt,
that many of the difeafes incident to the lower ranks, were
occafioned by the,£c$rcity and high price of proper fueL The
inhabitants . are, in general, healthy, and many inftances of
their living to the age of 80 years, or thereby, might be ad-
duced ; aninfiance or two there have been of the age of 90.
The fmall-pox raged, in this place, to a great degree, during
thefirftj months of 1792, and proved very. mortal; when
the infection was caught, in the natural way, upwards of ,50
children, during the above period, fell a facrifice to them.
It is, with pleafure, however, to be obferved, that the peo-
ple were never more reconciled to the falutary mean of ino-
culation.
*4* Statifikal Account
dilation, than at the above period. Of thofe who took th4
difeafe by the latter, there were a only died, and thefe, by
the phyfician's account, had other diforders which bore heavy
upon them.
Sea-Coaft, &c— There is a eonfiderable extent of faucoaft
on the N. and S. E. fides of the pariih, not far ihort of 9
miles ; that on the N. is flat, and after paffing the Sutor Bay
about half a mile, there is fcarce a rock to be met with on
either fide of the bay. The coaft upon the S. and S. £• is
high, being lined all along with a continued rock, derated in
fome places, upwards of 150 feet above the level of the fea.
There are feveral filh-boats belonging to the place; and though
this be one of die nobleft fitting ftations, that can be, yet, of
late years, from the fmall fize of boats made ufe of, and die
extreme timidity of the fifhcrs, this ufeful article of life htis
been much lefs plentiful than was -formerly known in this
place. What feems to have introduced the trie of fuch (mail
boats was, that till within thefe laft 16 or 20 years, fifli was
got in abundance within the bay, which is not now the cafe ;
they now begin to fee the neceffity of large boats, and by go-
ing out fome eonfiderable diflance down the Murray Frith/
fi(h are caught in greater abundance, fuch as cod, haddocks,
whitings, flounders, fltait, turbot -very rarely, and fole; her-
rings have been caught in great abundance in the bay, but
not for feveral years pail. The price of fifli has rifen more,
in proportion, than any other article of life, but fiill they
are the cheapeft provifion which a family can ufe, notwith-
ftandingthat id., about 12 or 16 years ago, would go fur*
ther in the purchafe of this commodity, than 1 s. now *•
Covrjk
* Haddocks are in feafon from the month of May to February; cod, from'
February to the month of June ; flounders fall off in the harveft months ; fltilt'
and'
Of Cromarty. 249
Covrfe 0/ thi 9Rdef and Sea-Weed.— Thtre is a very ftrong
^idc flows in and out between the Sutors ; and it is remark-
able, that die fea has made confiderable encroachments on
the E. end of the town, and falls in on the W. There it
tradition among the inhabitants, that the ground on which
the old town of Cromarty flood, being towards the E., is
now wholly under water, and there are ftrong preemptions
to favour the tradition in part. It is well known, that what
was formerly called the weftern extremity of the town, is
now the eaftern ; neither are there any houfes to the E. of
the old crofs of Cromarty, which is generally fuppofed to
have been placed about the centre of the old town. But
what tends to confirm this tradition moft of all, is, that many
of the inhabitants now living have feen feveral fmall tracks
of garden ground, which are now either cut away, or cover-
ed by the fea. A ftorm from the E. covers the fhore of this
place with great quantities of fea- ware, which proves excel-
lent manure of itfelf, and anfwers well as a mixture in the*
dunghil. The quantity of kelp made on the fliore, does not}
exceed xo tons annually ,
Sutors Bay and Harbour.— -The Sutors of Cromarty, fa
generally known, ajre two promontories jutting out into the*
Vol. XII. I i fea,
and whitings are found good at all feafons. All the kinds of fiih, except her-
lings, are generally taken by bait. Cromarty finds market for the greater pro*
portion of fifh caught by our fijhers. It frequently happens that feveral of the
boats go up ta Dingwall, where the bay terminates, and. there find a ready.
market for all their cargoes. It may not be improper to obferve here, that this*
place labours under, a great disadvantage, from the want of a weekly meat-
market, which proves very inconvenient for fmall families. Beef is fold, when*
cheapeft, at a-|d. the pound ; it advances in the fpring feafon to 3$d. and 46.
Mutton much about the fame price ; pork fomewhat lower. A good fowl is
never below 6"d. Butcher meat of all kinds is generally very ill to be had diuv
log the fpring feafon, and until the latter end of July.
ZSQ Statiflical Account
fea, considerably derated above its level ; the pne on the N.
fide of the entrance to the bay, and in the county of Rofs,
the ofher on the S. fide in die county and parifb of Cromarty.
The body of w&tei; between the Sutors, is about a mile and a
half in breadth, and forms the grand entrance to the bay o£
Cromarty *. There is the fineft anchorage ground that can
be (after pfuHag the Sutors) for feveral miles up the bay*
There is * vaft depth of water, on both fides, alnaoft clofe to
the fliore ; and fuch withal is (he favourable and fmooth flate
of the fbore, on both fides, that were a veffel driyen from
her cables, and caft a&ore, there would be little or no da-
mage incurred , fuch iaftances feldom happen, and without
any material injury to the veffel. . Such is the vaft extent of
(b-rtom in this bay, and fuch the capacious description of
its length, depth, and breadth, that almoft the whole Britifh
Navy might, with the greateft fafety, ride within the view
of this place. Accordingly, it is remarkable, that in a 1 vio-
lent eafterly floras, when no veffel can venture to look into
any port of the E. coaft of Scotland from the Frith of Forth
northwards, all veflels, thus fituated, flock into this bay as a
place of fafety. Upwards of 30 veflels, at a time, have re-
peatedly been driven up here, and found lhelter from the
Aorm. There was a moft commodious quay built here, in
•'■■■■•■ ^
* The etymology of the name Sutor, is uncertain. In a curious, though
whimfical production, written bj Sir Thomas Urquhart of Cromarty, it is af-
ferted, I know not upon what authority, that thefe promontories were named
by the Greeks snuasn, and that, from this they retain the name Sutors. Other
derivations might be fought out, but fo fanciful as force to merit notice, as in-
deed there is great (tape for imagination' on fuch fubjecls. Sir Thomas Ur-
quhart's account of the matter, fo far accords with the description of the bay
of Cromarty, that when a veffel, of whatever fize or burden, and in the moft
boifterous ftorm that blows, gets once fairly within the Sutors, there is no
frfer riding in the world. Other caufes, however, confpire to entitle this bay
to the name of Partus SalutisK as Buchanan terms it*
Of Cromarty. 45 i
fh6 y&r 1785, partly at the expenfe of Government, and
partly that of Mr. George Rote late proprietor of the eftate
of Cromarty ; it receives veflels of 350 tons burden, and fur-
niihes a fmooth landing place for the ferry-boat, in the moll,
boiftenros weather. The prefent proprietor of the lands of
Cromarty, in concurrence with the other truftees who are
appointed; "by a& of parliament, to attend, to the fupport of
the quay, have it in contemplation, io build a pier upon the
bppofite fliore, in order to procure a fmooth landing to the
ferry-boat upon the Rofs-fhire fide. Such a fcheme, wheii
carried into execution; will be greatly in favour of this
place, iiifomuch, that fcarce any weather will prevent the
courfe of the ferry-boat, between the two counties of Rofs
and Cromarty. The fafety of this ferry may be judged ofj
when no accident has been known to have happened upon if
in the memory of mstnJ
Population, &c. — According to Dr. Webfter's report^ the*
population in 1755, was 2096. The prefent incumbent finifh-
ed a fiirvey of the population of the pari(h on the ift day of
April 1790, fince which time no alteration as to number has
taken place. The number of fouls in the country part of
the parifli, amounts to 727; and in the town, to 1457, mak-
ing in all 2184. There was a lift of the inhabitants in the
coiintfry, taken by the former incumbent in the year 1785;
from which it appears, that there is a decreafe of about 40
flnce that period ; this, pfbbably, has been occafioned by fe-
veral fmafl farms being joined into larger, thougli, upon the*
whole, no great change, of this nature; has taken place in
this parifli ; another caufe,' is the emigration of labourers to
the fouth country, fome of whom do not again return. The
Inhabitants of the town have, without cloubt, increafed con-
fidcrably within thefe iaft 18 years,' which has been occafion-
1 i a ed
252
Statiftlcol Account
ed by the extenfive manufacture of hemp, etefted hare bf
the late Mr. George Rofs. The number of males in the pa*
rhji amounts to 1020, the number of females to 1164.
Abstract of Baptisms, &c. for the lajl 8 yiars.
Teats.
Bapttfms.
Marriages.
Buritk.
1784
56
9
29
1785
59
15
57
1786
61
10
30
1787
55
14
a«
1788
59
ia
3*
1789
6%
10
»8
1790
47
12
«7
1791
<*
9
47
443
Yearly average 55,
Souls under 10 years, 488
From 10 to 20, - 458
From lo to 5 c, * 868
91
XI
276
14
From 50 to 70, - 3*3
Above 70, and not ex-
ceeding 87, - 47
The above ftate of ages, though not perfectly exad, will
be found not fax from the truth*" The number of fanners in
the parifh m y amount to 5c There may be about 800 cattle
which are, in general, of a fuperior kind : the number of
horfes may amount to 300, and of iheep to 600*
Number of uteres, Improvements, &e — There was a fur-
vey of the eftate of Cromarty taken by the late Mr. George
Rofs ; as alfo, of the eftate of Udal by Mr. Anderfon the
prefent
Of Cromarty. 253
prefeot proprietor, and accurate maps of both properties made
out. From which it appears, that there are, in all, 6343 acres,
2 roods, 31 falls ; of which 1639 acres, 2 roods, 35 falls, are
arable ; 1832 acres, 1 rood, 7 falls, in plantation; 2871 acres,
2 roods, 29 falls, in pafture and moor. Here it will be pro*
per to obferve, that few parifhes can boaft of larger fums
having been laid out in improvements of all kinds, than were
applied, t© this purpofe, by the late proprietor of the eftate
of Cromarty, whofe memory ihould ever be held in eftima*
tion, by the inhabitants of this place, for the many public
fpirited, as well as difinterefted fchemes he preceded for pro-
moting the welfare of the place, and rendering its many lo-
cal advantages productive of the mon\ extenfive ufefulnefs -y
and, while he lived, no perfonal expenfe was thought too
great by him, which might be fubfervient to carry fuch plans
into execution* Upwards of 50,0001. was laid out by him,
in enclosures, the cultivation of a vaft extent of moor ground,
and other improvements ; good crops are now raifed, where
many of the inhabitants have feen nothing but bare moor.
A considerable proportion of the above fum was applied to-
wards beautifying, and enlarging the pleafure-grounds around
the houfe and hill of Cromarty. The latter is covered with firs
and foreft trees of all kinds, and beautifully interfperfed with
delightful walks ; the grandeur of the profpe& from many
parts of this hill, or fouth Sutor, is beyond defcription, being
enriched, on one fide, with an extenfive view of the Murray
Frith, the whole coaft, with which it is lined \ and, on the
other, it takes in all the principal gentlemen's feats in the
counties of Rofs and Cromarty, including the bay, which
Completes the richnefs of the fcene, and conftitutes, upon the
whole, the moft beautiful variety of land and water that is to
be met with in Britain. Travellers of the firft rank and
tofte have traverfed the hill, and fpoke of its beauties, with
admiration,
4j4 Statiftical Account.
admiration, in exceeding any thing they had efer ieeu fol
grandeur and extent of profped *•
Language, Manners, Sec, — The language of aU born and
brdd in this parilh; approaches to the broad Scotch, differing,
however, from the diale&s fpoken in Aberdeen and Murray-
Aire ; this being one of the three parifhes in thfe counties of
Rofs and Cromarty, in which, till of late years, the Gaelic'
language, which is the Utiiverfal language in the adjacent
parifhes, was fcarce ever fpoken. There has been a confi-
derable change, of late years, in this refpeft, among the in-
habitants here ; the Gaelic having become rathet more pre-
valent than ufualf. There is a very genteel fociety, in this
place, compofed of feveral refpcftable and good families, re-
markable for fobriety, for decency and propriety of condU&j
in every refpeft. There are alfo in the country part of the
parifh, and among the farmers, feveral judicious heads of
families
* The crops raifed in the parifh, are, oats, barley, peafe, very little wheat;
potatoes. Oats are generally fown in the end of March and beginning of April f
potatoes and peafe in the month of April, and barley in the month ox May*
Barley harveft begins, in general, about the middle of Auguft, other crops are
reaped in September. The parifh finds confumption for the greater part of the
vi&oal railed among us. Some indeed is exported to the neighbouring counties,
but in no great quantities.
f This change has been partly occafioned by the great nuntber of labourer!
from other quarters of the country, employed in carrying on Mr. Rofs's im-
provements ; many of whom took up their refidence in the place ; the number*
of facb labourers may be judged of, from this circumftance, that in one year/
there war known to be no lefs a fum than ioool. distributed among them at 6<L
today. What makes the Gaelic language now have any footing, is the efta-
blifhment of the manufacture, which has collected many inhabitants to the
place, who never knew any other than the Gaelic tongue. It is to be obferved;
in general, that the Gaelic is wholly confined to thofe who have fettled here*
from the neighbouring pariihes. It is worthy of notice, that there is t Qtcofialf
ftnuuae, Mallard, among the people here, not common elfcwhere.
%
Of Cromarty. 855
families who conduft tbemfelves, through life, in ftn honeft
[ and induftrious manner, and poflefs a degree of civility an4
difcretion, not always to be met with among people of their
ftation. A regard to religion, and the duties of public wor«
ihip, form a leading part of the chara&er of all ranks in this
J pari£h, and among many, the duties of morality are happily*
.conjoined to give confiftency and beauty to their religious pro- -
feffion *.
I Rent, Proprietors, &c — The valued rent of the pariih it
0579 1. 17 s, 2d. Scots. The grofs rent in vi&ual and money1
will be little fhort of 1600 1. It is hfgre worthy of notice,
that there has been no rife of rent, in this pariih, except about
the town, for a long courfe of years ; and the tenants have
an advantage, not now very general, by having a third part
of their rent converted at ies. the boll ; the confequence of
Which is, that thole of them who are fober, keep decent fa-
milies, and live comfortably. The lands about the town are
I let at 2 1. the acre, and are all enclofed. Scarcely any of the
country farms are enclofed ; they are let, at an average, from
12s. to 15s. the acre. In the year 1763, the property of
this
* The principal exception to this latter obfervation, is a habit of drunken-
nefs which has long been prevalent among the lower claffcs in this place. The
late proprietor, faw the fad confluences, with which the intemperate ufe of
fpirilous liquors was daily attended in the above clafs of people, and to check
the evil, as far as in him lay, did erect a very extenfive brewery in the place
to furoifh the inhabitants, at an eafy rate, with a wholefomer and left noxious
liquor ; but the cheapness of fpirits has totally aboliihed the ufe of beer a*
mong the lower ranks ; fcarce a gallon, of the latter is drunk among them in
the week, while too many have run into the exceffivc and pernicious ufe of the
former. It is to be hoped, however, that the late wife commutation, which
transfers the tax from coals to fpiritous liquors, will fuperfcde the neceffity in
the people, of having recourfe fo much to what heated them internal^, by af-
fording them more eafy acceis to comfortable heat of an external nature.
2$6 Statijlical Account
this parifh was divided among 18 or 20 different proprietors.
The principal heritor, at that time, was Captain John Ur«
quhart, who was a branch of the old family of the Urquharts
of Cromarty ; a lineal defcent of which, from Adam, has
been whimfically attempted, by Sir Thomas Urquhart, who
reprefented the family of Urquhart about the middle of the
17th century *. There are now but 8 proprietors in the pa-
rifli, except the Lairds of Cromarty and Udal, the property
of all the reft put together is but trifling. The former, re*
fides conftantly in England, the latter, lives upon his proper-
ty. It is worthy of remark, that the eftate of Udal has been
in poffeffion of the {feme family for a period of 200 years.
The prefent proprietor, Mr. Anderfon, has* planted a confi-
derable extent of it with fir^ and foreft trees, which come oi*
very well,
Ecclefiqftical State, Stipend, Poor. — There are two clergy,
men in the parifli ; the parifh minifter, and the minifter of
the Gaelic Chapel. There was no Gaelic preached in tbi*
place, until the ere&ion of the chapel ; and the principal rea-
fon of introducing it was, for the accommodation of Mr*
Rofs's numerous labourers, and others who came from the}
neighbouring
* The property of this family was once very efctemlvc in the county of Cro-
marty, and comprehended much more than what is now called the eftate of
Cromarty. Sir John Urquhart, who died about the year 1659, left his affairs
in great diforder, which obliged his fon Jonathan to bring the eftate to fale
The purchafer was George M*Kenzie9 Vifcount of Tarbat, afterward Earl of
Cromarty, being the firft who bore that title. The Earl of Cromarty gave the
eftate to his 2d fon Sir Kenneth M'Kenzie. Sir Kenneth was fucceeded by his
fon Sir George, and fliortly before his death, the eftate was brought to a judicial
fale, and purchafed by the above mentioned Captain Urquhart of Craigfton.
jBy him it was fold to Mr. William Pultney, who made fale of it to Mr. George
Rofs, the late proprietor, and whofe nephew, Mr. Alexander Rofs, is now pro-
prietor of moft of the lands in the pariih.
t)f Gromartyi %$j
Neighbouring parifhes to the manufa&ure of hemp. Accord*
inglyf the place of worfliip was built folely at the expenfe of
Mr. George Ro£s, in the year 1783 j and he obtained a grant
from the Exchequer of 50 1., paid annually from the bifhop
rents, as a living to the Gaelic minifter. The manfe under-
went a partial repair* at the admiifion of the prefent incum-
bent, and is a good fubftantial houfe. The church was roof-
ed anew, in the late incumbent's time ; the old roof, at that
time, taken off, was all of oak, faid to have been cut down
from the hill of Gromarty, upwards of 140 years before.
The living was augmented by the Court of Teinds, during
their laft feffion, having got an increafe of 28 1. 13s. 7d. Ster-
ling. The ftate of the living now Hands, as follows : 8 ch al-
ders of vidua], and 38 1* 8s. Sterling of money. The glebe
may be valued at 12I. a^year. The Crown is patron both of
the parifh church and the Gaelic — The number of poor, up-
on the town's roll, amounts to 77, and upon the country's,
to 33> making in all no. The funds, for their relief, are as
follow : In meal there are 9 bolls, 6? pecks, payable from
mortified lands left for the behoof of the poor 138 years ago,
by one M'Culloch of Good-tre£. Along with this, there is
the annual intereft of X2cl. Sterling, of a fund ; five guineas
given annually, for a courfe of years back, by a Lady for-
merly conne&ed with this place, and about 4 1. Sterling an-
nually, of feat rents. The weekly contributions, at both
congregations, have confiderably increased within the two laft
years, and may be eftimated annually, between 30 1. and 40 L
Sterling ; fo that between meal and money, there wiil be a
fum amounting to 60 1. Sterling annually, for the above num-
ber of poor, which is diftributed among them, in two parts,
at thofe feafons of the year* when the neceffaries of life are
purchafed at the eafieft rate. It is worthy of remark, that
in the year 1783, there was upwards of 30I. Sterling col-
Vol. XII. K k kfted
t
3^8 Statiftical Account
le&ed in one day's time, in this fmall place, for tiie relitf of
the deftitute. Several of the tenants ftill fpeak of their fed-
ing the hard efie&s of that and the preceding year.
Manufa&ure— -The Cromarty hempen cloth manufadur*
was ere&ed in 1773 by the late proprietor, and feveral other
country gentlemen, and is now carried on by a company of
merchants in London. The fabricks, which are chiefly de-
signed for cotton and coal bagging, are, in general, for export-
ation, and very little made ufe of in Scotland. The build-
ings for this bufinefs are large and extenfive beyond any for
the fame purpofe in Britain. Within the walls, there are a-
bout 200 people employed, men, women, and children; a-
inong whom there is a weekly circulation (exclafive of over-
feeds wages, and incidental expenfes) of about 37 1. Sterling ;
to thofe who fpin in their own houfes in town and parifli,
there is a weekly circulation of 4 1. To thofe who fpin in
the adjacent parifhes, there is a weekly circulation of 9 1.
Sterling, making in all the fum of jol. Sterling, circulated
weekly over the country from this manufa&ure, or 2600 1.
Sterling annually.
Antiquities.— Among thefe is to be mentioned, the old
caftle of Cromarty, which flood hard by where the prefent
houfe is built, but came nearer to the Hope of the bank: ir
was pulled down by the late proprietor, in the year X773;
and feveral urns were dug out of the bank, immediately a-
round the caftle, compofed of earthen ware ; there were alfo
feveral coffins of ftone. The urns were placed in flags of (lone,
which formed a fquare around them, and a flag covered them \
when the labourers touched thefe urns, they immediately
mouldered away, nor was it poffible to get up one of them
entire : they contained the remains of dead bodies, which
fccmed
Of Cromarty. 359
fbemed to have been burnt almoft to a&es, before the/ were
pat into the urns ; fome fmall parts of the bones, which were
not reduced to aflies, had the appearance of having been burnt,
by which means they were preferred from mouldering. , Tho
coffins of ftone contained Jkeletons, fome of which wanted
the head ; Others having it, were of a very uncommon fixe,
meafuring 7 feet in length. On a bank, to the £. of Cro-
marty Houfe, there ftand the remains of a place of worfhip,
called St. Regulus's Chapel, probably it was the family cha-
pel of the Urquharts. From an ancient record, the fubjoiaed
account of St. Regulus is taken *•
About 3 miles to the S. of this place, there is a very dif-
. tin A appearance of a camp in the figure of an oblong fquare,
fuppofcd to have been a Danilh camp. At one 'corner of it,
. there is the appearance of a number of graves, which makes
it probable that many mud have fallen in fome attack upon
it. It is generally conje&ured that the Danes were wont to
land at this place, and that the inhabitants of the country met
them in a large moor, called Mullbuy, where they often
(ought, as graves are to be traced .diftin&ly, for fcveral miles,
4 " It is reported, that one Regulus, a Grecian, having, in purfuance of or*,
tiers given him in a vifion, put out to fea in company with fome of his colleagues,
carrying the arm-bone, 3 fingers, and 3 toes of the Apoftle St. Andrew in a lit-
tle box ; and after they had long fuffered under horrid ftorms of ill- weather,
eing caft into that part of Fife, now called St. Andrew's, without any thing
faved but the relicks, Herguftus, king of the Pi&s, entertained them nobly, and
at their defire, erecled a church, which, to this day, bears the name of St. Rule,
from Regulus ; upon whom that prince bcftoWed his own palace, with lands
adjacent. This is- laid to have happened about the 7th century." Buchanan
alfo fpeaks of the fame St. Regulus, under the article Fanum Reguli of the No*
menclatura Latino Vernaculo. It is not improbable that fome of his canons,
regular were placed in the chapel here, as they had been in the cathedral of St.
Andrew's. There are the remains of another chapel in the country part of the
l6o Stattftxcal Account
in diflftrent parts of it. About a mile from the encampment,
there is a very large col left ion of round ftones, and hard by
it a fmaller one ; fome of the ftones of a great fize, which mud
have cod great labour in gathering it : It is beyond a doubt,
that thefe ft}ones were colle&ed by the people, after battles
fought in the moor, in order to cover th* graves of their he-
roes and chief captain?; and to ftand as monuments upon the
ground where they lay: what ferves to confirm this account
is, that flone-coffins have been found on the fpot, containing
the bones of fuch heroes *•
Mifcellancous Ohftrvations. — There is a considerable altc-»
* ration in the drefs of the people of late years. Englifh cloths,
and thofe of Scotch manufacture are now much worn by all
ranks, and printed cottons have become a very general drefo
among houfe- maids and others, who were wont to be clothed
with coarfe woollen ftuffs of home manufacture. The trade
of this place has hitherto been but very inlignificant, not with-
' {landing of its many and fuperior local advantages. AH the
•veflels trading fiom London, Leith, and Aberdeen, to the
northern counties, generally land at this place firft, and take
fheir departure from it to thefe different quarters. The quan-
• Sir Thomas Urquhart's account of this matter it to the following purpofe^
leaving it to the reader to give it what credit he may think fit. Speaking in
his genealogical table of Aftiorcmon one of the forefathers of the Urquhart fa-
mily, and whom he makes grandfon of Alcibiades the Athenian ; he goes on to
obferve, * That in the year before Chrift 361, this Aftioremon, by killing the
ontlandiJh king Ethus, firft king of the Picls, in a duel, before the face of both
armies, gained the great battle of Farnua, fought within a mile of Cromarty :
the relicksof that ft ranger king's trenches, head quarters and caftramentation of
hi* whole army being, to this day, conspicuous to all that pafs by." Thus far
Sir Thomas. Whatever be in this account, the farm town which, according to
him, g:<ve name to the battle, is ftill called Faxnafs, and is within a few gna-
fhots 01 where the encampment was.
Of Cromarty. «6f
tity of goods landed for this place, is proportionally fmall ;
but there is a great increafe in the quantity fent to other quar-
ters around, of late years. The London traders alone annual-
}y carry to the four 'northern counties, yalue to the amount of
at leaft 100,000 \. Sterling *.
NU M-
* There is a cuftom-houfe boat (rationed here, having a matter and fix men
under his command; from all I can learn, fmugg'ing in thefc quarters is knock-
ed in the head. It would be wrong to omit mentioning here, a grievance much
and juftly complained of;' it is ihortly {his : That the pfficers of tfie cuftoms here
are mftructed from the cuftom-houfe, to Hop all boats freighted with vicinal,
however fmall the quantity, unlefs a regular clearance or permit for fuch boat
is fent for and obtained from the cuftom-houfe at Invernefs. From this prac
aice, aoy of the inhabitants of this country who may have occafion to fend but %%
bolls of barley acrofs the Frith, up to Invernefs, or any of the neighbouring
creeks, are under the unaccountable haidfhip of detaining their boat until the
return of an exprefs from Invernefs, which lies 30 miles diftance from many
quarters of the country; and even from this place; the ezpenfe incurred by fuch
a procedure, including the officer's fees, which amount to lis. or 12 s., and
paying the egprefs, will be nothing ftiort of 16 s. or x 8 a. This is mentioned,
that the grievance, if not fan&ioned by law, as is ftrongly fufpe&ed, majr be
checked, and a ftop put to any longer continuance of it*
f
*6z Statijiical Account
NUMBER XXI.
UNITED PARISHES of KILMUIR WESTER
and SUDDY.
(County and Synod or Ross, Presybtery of Chanonry.)
By the Rev. Mr. Roderick M<Kehzik.
Name, Extentx Climate, Soil, iSc.
KILMUIR is a Gaelic name, Ggnifying"achurch dedicate^
to Mary:" it has Wetter affixed to it, to diftraguifb it
from a parifli of the name of Kilmuir, fituated in Eafter Ro&%
within 6 miles of Tain, which is near the extremity of this
county. Suddy is a Gaelic name alfo, that fignifies *• a good
*' place to fettle in," both from its fertility and local fituation.
The kirk and manfe of Kilmuir were built on the S. fide of
jhis parifli, clofe by that branch of the Murray Frith, leading;
towards Beauly, Commanding a view of the town of Invernefs,
the place of Cuiloden, Fort-George, and all the way along
that coaft to the town of Forres ; and for a beautiful filia-
tion
Of Kilmuir Wefter and Suddy. 363
lion was inferior to no place in this country. The kirk and
manfe of Suddy were built to the N. fide of the pariih, in the
heart of s rich and fertile country*. This parifh, which
now goes commonly by the name of. Knockbain, (from the
kirk and manfe being built on a fpot of ground of that name),
is rather irregular in its form, being divided by a branch of
the Murray Frith that goes toward Beauly, called the Bay
of Munlochy. It is alfo covered on the N. and N. W. by a
part of the parifh of Killearnan, for at lead 2 Engliih miles*
Its length from E. to W. is fuppofed to be from 5 to 6 miles,
and from S to N. from 6 to 7. The air is clear and falubri-
ous, which is in a great meafure owing to the immenfe quan-
tity of open country and moors, which ftill lie uncultivated
in
* Thefe two parifhes, together with the parifh of Killearnan, were united in
• Che year 1756, at the joint requeft and application of all the heritors, (except
Mr. M'Kenxie of Suddy), and of the 3 incumbents, viz. Mr. Donald Frafer of
Killearnan, Mr. Munro of Suddy, and Mr. Robert Munro of Kilmuir, to the
Lords of Council and Seffion, as commiffioners for the plantation of kirks and va-
luation of teinds : and upon the death of the minifter of Suddy, which happened
in 176a, the^kirk and manfe of ttfe united parishes of Kilmuir and Suddy were
built upon a bleak and barren moor, to the S. fide of Munlochy, called, by way
0/ burlefque, Knockbain, where it had a glebe affixed to it of confiderable ex-
tent, but of little vajue. This place, no doubt, was cho&n for the accommoda-
tion of the pan Ihi oners being centrical ; but with little regard to the minuter**
comfort or advantage. The ftipend of the three parifhes was equally divided
00 the death of Mr. Munro of Suddy, which happened May 1 7 6 2, between the
minifter of Killearnan, and the minifter of the united parifhes, and a confider-
able part of the parifh of Kilmuir, and a fmall part of the parifh of Suddy, were
annexed to the parifh of Killearnan, and a part of the parifh of Killearnan was
was disjoined from it, and annexed to the united parifh of Kilmuir and Suddy. ,
One thing worthy of remark in this divifion of the parifhes, is, that in order to
make the ftipends equal, there is from one town, Wefter-KelTock, S bolls of lti—
pend payable to the minifter of Killearnan, although the minifter of the united
parifh is obliged to perform every part of the paftoral office quoad facra% and
the inhabitants of the town accommodated with room in the church of the u-
nited parifh.
364 Statiftkal Account ' ' ,
in this parifli, and to there being no high mountains, nor any
large tracks of wood to prevent the free circulation of the
air. The inhabitants are healthy,, and fubje& to no difeafes*
but fuch as are* peculiar to their neighbours *. Th? nature
of the cultivated foil is various ; that along the fea coaft is
thin and ftony, but, when properly cultivated, yields good
crops of grafs and com, especially if the fummer months be
moift and rainy ; that in the middle of the parifli is deep, rich,
and having a clay bottom, produces luxuriant crops on fuch
farms as are kept in a good date of culture : as it extends to-
ward the Mullbuy, (a long track of common, extending from
Cromarty to the public road leading from Beauly to Ding-
wall, and covering a confiderable part of this parifh to the N.)
the foil, though good, from its high fituation is cold ; and
though it yields tolerable crops of oats and peafe, the barley
crops are generally poor, owing, in a great meafure, to the
wetnefs of the ground, and no drains nor fences being made to
carry off the hill-waters, or fhelter the fields, excepting on the
heritor's mains, as alfo from the people's not giving it a Suf-
ficient quantity of good and rich manure. This parifli, not-
withftanding, yields a much greater quantity of grain than is
fufficient to Support the inhabitants ; and from the grain's be*
ing always early fown, and as early gathered in at harveft,
it is found to be of a fuperior quality for the brewer, the dif-
tiller, and mealmonger, and being in the clofe neighbourhood
of
• The fmall.pox generally makes dreadful havock among the children ; and
this is in a great meafure owing to the averfion the common people have at ino*
culation, which, I am told, has never been praclifed here* but by the gentle^
men, and fuch of their dependents as have b-en prevailed upon, by earncft pcr-
fuafion and entreaty, to permit their children to be inoculated ; however, it is
to be expecled, that as the people becon e a little more acquainted with this
happy mean, which has already faved the lives of tboufands, and fee its falutary
effects, that they may be brought to yield to the practice of it, and fo fave the
lives of their own young ones.
Of Kihmir Wefiet and Buddy. 265
ff the town of Inverness, it is always fare of a ready market :
the whole of the harveft laft year, though late all oyer Eng-
land and Scotland, was fafely iagathered in tbi* pariih before
the ift of Oftober, although expofed . in feme of the njeigh-
bouring pariftes till the middle of November.
Population— According to Dr. Webftert report, the po-
pulation in 1755 was 668. The number of fouls at prefe&t
in this pariih is 1805 : °f thefe there are above the age of 10
years 13 > 3, and below 10 years 450 ; of which there are-male?
704, females 1101 : of the above 704, there are 341 above the
age of 15. Number of marriages in 1791, — ty 4 in 179a, —
90. Births in 1791,— 41 ; in 179a, — 45 f. The number of
tenants is 106, cottagers and mealers 404 ; of thefe there is
x merchant, 62 widows, 13 widowers, 49ihoe andbrog-mak-
ers, 5 fmiths, 17 fquare and cart-wrists and millers, 11
wavde? lafles keeping houfe, 3 bachelors keeping houfe, 41
weavers, 1 8 tailors, 1 fiddler, 4 pipers, 3£ardeaers, 1 excife-
man, 9 whiiky fellers, 1 regular inn at Kefibckferry, 6 diftil-
Jiers of whiiky, 1 ferry, with a fufljcient number of boatmen,.
Vol. XII. M This
f There are many more) children born in this parifh than the number con-
tained in this report, fuch as are baptized by the Epifcopal clergymen, and the
names of thofe children are not engrofled in the parifh regifter ; and, I fuppofef
they keep no, regifter of their own, fe that the iwmber cannot be afcertained
pith any degree of exaclneis, but may he fuppofed at 10. No account af all
can be given, of the number of deaths in this pariih, as there is no regifter of bu-
rial* kept, betides, that many of the inhabitants-bury in the neighbouring church-
yards, although there be two burial places in this fame pariih, one at Suddy,
and one at Ktlmuir. The people of this pariih, in general, are healthy, though
pot long Ujed. There are few inftance* of men's arriving at the age of 80 years;
and this may be owing to their being inured to hard labour from their youth,
from their eating little or none of butcher meat, and but very little milk ; the
principal food of the common people being oatmeal and potatoes, with a little.
jjjh in the fiflung feafon. There are a few women now living in this parifh, wly>
Jjpve attained to the age of oc jears. ■
$66 Statiftkal Amunt
This ferry is the property of Mr. Grant of Redeaftle, who it
to boild a pier and un inn, and ftables at die ferry, for the ac-
commodation of the public, which, with proper boats, will
eoft between 700 L add 800 1. Sterling.
The population of this parifli has, of late years, confojer*
ably increafed ; and tl|is is to be chiefly attributed to the en-
couragement given by the family of Kilcoy to mealers and
cottagers on that eftate. This plan was originally adopted by
Mrs. MfKenzie Dowager of Kilcoy, during the minority of
her fon, aa4 carried on with fpirit and fuccefs ; and as there
is ftill a considerable quantity of wafte lands in his property,
that is fit for culture, he continues to encourage thefe new
£tders upon liberal and advantageous terns both to himfe}f
and them *.
Rt*t, Htritvts, t£*.~The valued ***nt is 314$ 1- ?t a. OcL
$eota, and the real rent, including the heritor's mains, may
be eftimated at 26*00 1. Sterling, ibme of which is paid in kind,
fuch as barley and oat-meal, the reft in money. Indeed, the
gentlemen are converting all their jeats into money, all the
euftoms, carriages, and ferviees being converted feme tune
ago, I think, at the rate of z L Sterling for every boll of ok)
rent, and now only aflels the tenants with as much victual a*
pays the clergyman's ftipend. There are 9 heritors in this
parifli, 5 of whom have their manfion-houfes in it, and re-
fide in them, except Colonel Graham of Dryney, who is with
bis regiment in America, and Mrs. M'Kenzie of Suddy at
"Chatham,
* There ire no Papifts, Seceders, Method ifta, nor any other religious fee* from
the Eftabltihed Church in this parifh, except about 200 Bpifcopaliant, who have
a chapel of their own, and i clergyman to preach to them once in 10 days. This
clergyman regularly adminifttrs the facraments, and marries hit own hearer*,
but never without * line from the feffion-cfcik of this pariih, certifying Hit
parties having been proclaimed, and the does paid.
bf Kulmuir Weftcr and Suddy. ft 67
Chatham. Two have their family feats in the patifli of Ktl-
learnan, where their property is confiderable ; and one, Mr.
M*Kenzie of Pitiundy, one of the fheriff-fubftitiftes of Rofs;
lives on a farm belonging to Mr. Davidfon of Tulloch, dofe
by the town of DingWall. Property has been, for feveral
years back, rather changeable ; but no proprietor has been
introduced into the parifh for upwards of 50 years, except
Mr. Grant of Redcaftle, and Sir Roderick M'Kenzie of Scat-
well, who fold his property in this pariih to the Kilcoy fami-
ly; the reft of the property, to a confiderable quantity of land,;
that was fold, being bought up by the family of Kilcoy, who
is the largeft proprietor, and principal heritor in this parifh,
except a fmall property purchased of late by Colonel Graham,
bf Dryney.
Language— The Gaelic is the language commonly fpoken
here 5 and though there are a few who hate no Gaelic, yet
moft of the inhabitants fpeak and underftand both languages.
All the names of the heritors places of refidence in this pa-
fiih, are derived from the Gaelic : Thui, AUangrange, or;
JUan-Chrain, u a fertile field of corn »" Suddy; Or Siii-us-Jbin,
u a good place to fettle in ;" Belmaduthy, or Ball-ma-duicbt
" a good country town," or Ball~ma-dutb9 " a good black
" town," from its being fituated hard by % black moor.
jijfricttkure, &c— Agriculture is, as jtt; in this parifh,
though a corn country, in a date of infancy: excepting on th$
proprietor's mains, and x farm^ the reft all adhere to the old
mode of culture. The heritors, who have all extenfive mains,-
are improving them with great judgment and fpirit ; but, be-
ing all young men, few or none of them have had fufficient
titne to complete their pleafure ground, or bring their mains
W a proper ftate of cultivation, although they are making
LI) faft
•i68 Siatiftical Account
faft progrefs toward it. From this I muft except Mr. Mac-
kenzie of AH an grange, who has brought his mains and the
pleafurewground of his place, to as high, if not higher perfection
than any man I know in this or the neighbouring counties ;
he has, for feveral years back, paid the clofeft attention to the'
improvement of his pface; and now, while the traveller is de-
lighted at feeing thofe improvements, he himfelf taftes the
profits, and enjoys the comforts of them. This gentleman
has, within my knowledge, recovered from 70 to 80 acres
from a perfect morafs> which is now completely drained, fen-
ced, and yielding ftrong crops of* hay and corn, and has there-
by not only beautified his place, but confiderably added to his
rent-roll: for thefe lands, which only paid his father 3I. 6s. 8d.
he could now fet at from 15 to 20 millings the acre ; and he
ftill continues to go on improving other parts of his eftate
with great affiduity and attention in the farming, fhepherd,
and planting way. At the place of Allangrange are to be
Teen feveral beedi trees and poplars of a very large file, as
alfo yew trees of an uncommon magnitude, and two filver firs
that greatly furpafs in height and circumference any fcf the
fame kind in this country. The mode of farming is various,
according as the tenants choofe ; only thofe upon the eftate of
Allangra* ge are reftri&ed, I am told, to a certain rotation ;
but I do not fee tttat they hold by it, or if they do, I do not
find that their circumftances are bettered by it.' There are
^18 ploughs in this parifh, fome of oxen, fome of horfes, and
fome a mixture of both ; none but the gentlemen ufe 2 horfe-
ploughs. There is not a farmer in this parifh, independent
of heritors, who rents 70 acres, except Mr. Munro, factor to
Kilcoy ; he is the only one who has adopts! the new mode
and plan of farming, and manages his farm to great advan-
tage. Lands in general let at from 12 s. 6 d. to 20 s. th*
acre; and on one eftate, I am told, they let higher. Th6
caufes
Of Kthnuir Wefler and Suddy. 269
caufes that generally obftruft the improvement of agriculture
here, in my opinion, are the poverty of the people, the fmall-
ftefs of the farms, the prejudices of the farmers in behalf of
old eftabliflied praftices, and the ibort leafts granted by he-
ritors ; all thefe co-operate to ftrengthen each other : And al-
though the heritors improve their own mains with fpirit, and
are well inclined to give long leafes, yet not one among the
whole fet of tenantry has followed their example, but Mr.
Munro, whom I have already mentioned, and has his farm
managed with great regularity and judgment.
The ftock of this parifli confifts of black cattle, horfes, s
few fheep and hogs, and, after fupplying the parifli with
grain, there are large quantities of meal and barley fold to
fuch as are inclined to purchafe. It is impoffible to afcertain
the number of acres under crop, as the eftates of the feveral
heritors have not been regularly furveyed ; and, I am forry
to fay, that it is my opinion there are ftill in this parifli two
uncultivated acres for every one that is in culture. But in
this calculation I include the planted grounds.
The people follow, in general, the occupation of hufbandry.
Although there is a Sufficient number of tradesmen of vari-
ous kinds, yet they hold fome little ground, which they cul-
tivate. The people, in general, are fober and induftrious ;
they confine their whole attention to the working of their
lands and their fmall crofts, and as there is no manufacture of
any kind eftablUhed in this parilh, both men and women are
equally dextrous at handling the Xpade, the muck-fork and
{hovel. The chief crops are rots, barley, peafe, potatoes, a
little wheat, and fome. rye ; there is alfo a conflderahle quan-
tity of clover and rye' grafs fown every year on the heritor's
mains, and anfwers extremely, well ; and a few of the tenants
low fmall fpots of ground .with the fame. Potatoes are a
great crop, as they make the principal food of the common
farmers
tjQ Statiftical Jccount
farmers and the poor people, which, with the herring that fro-*
queat this coaft almoft every autumn, and continue till the
fpring, make a good and wholefome diet. The herrings are
the only filh caught in this coaft, except a few falmon caught
at Stale fiihing, and fome cuddies, of a very fmall fize, in the
fummer months. Thefe were fo numerous this feafbn, as to
be taken with nets, although the common way of fiihing them
is with a hook and bait. I cannot here omit mentioning aa
uncommon kind of fifli called gobichs, that made its appear*
ance on this coaft about 3 years ago ; they darted to the (bore
with the greateft violence, fo that the people took them alive
in large quantities. The body of this fifli was long, and its
head refembled that of a ferpent's : its weight never exceeded
3 or 4 ounces : many of them were found dead on the ihore<
The fowing of oats and peafe commences here at February,
barley and potatoes in April ; fo that the whole crop is fowH
on or before 12th of May. Harveft generally begins along
the coaft about 12th of Auguft, and is general by the 12th
of September.
Stipend, Poor. — The kirk was built in 1764, and themanfk
in 1766} the latter was repaired in 1791 ; and both are now
in a tolerable ftate of repair. The church holds, for ordinary,
from 600 to 700 people. Captain M'Kenzie of Cromarty is
patron. The ftipend is 9 chalders and 1 boll of barley, 3
chalders and 3 bolls oat-meal, and 98 1. 9 s. 8 d. Scotch of mo*
ney, of which there are 60 1. for communion elements. Ther*
is, befides, half the glebe of Kilmuir, and a glebe about the
manfe, of between 30 and 40 acres, which rented at the time
of the annexation 7f bolls, but by its being totally negle&ed
fince that time* was of little or no value at the acceffion of
the prefent incumbent to the living, being moftly all covered •
over with .heath. — The number of poor on the roll of the
pariflr
Of KUmmr. Weftcr and Suddy. ijl
parifli is 35, too many for ell the funds : however* there Wet
triple this number, until the heritors and feffion, in July
1792, faw the nepeffity of ftriking off a great many, or rathet
they ftruck off tbemfelves, as the heritors and fcffion would
admit none, but fuch as would fign a bond (under certain li-
mitations), to leave all they were pofleffed of at their death,
as a fund for the poor of the parifli ; the feffion obliging them-
felves to fee fuch as figned this bond regularly fupplied, as far
as the funds would allow, and, in the end, have them decent-
ly buried. The Sunday collections amount to 61. or 7L ; a
mortcloth, brings in about 30 s. ; a fmall mortification of 16 s.
$d. from the lands of Bellmaduthy,— -is all the poor have to
depend upon : There is alfo a bond of 115I. due to the poor,
but which, from fome untoward circumftances, yielded no re*
lief to them for feveral years back : however, there is ftill rea-
fon to hope, that the principal funi may.be recovered. Ma-
ny of the poor beg from houfe to houfe ; and it would be
deemed impious to refufe alms, or a night's quarters to any.
A great many beggars fwarm to this parifli from other places,
particularly from the Highlands,- in the months of June, July
and Auguft.
Roads, bridges, Flirtations.—- .The roads of this pariih are
Tkept in excellent repair, as are alfo the bridges : thefe have
been hitherto done by ftatute-labour ; the people have now
an option of commuting it at as. the plough, or 18 d. the
man, or elfe to work at the roads for 6 days. There are 4
£?eat roads paffing through this parifli, one from Keflbck to
jFortrofe, Cromarty, Invergordon, Alnes and Fo'wles, for the
(pace of 6 miles in each direction, and the road from Inverness
to Dingwall, at the extremity of Allangrange's property, dofe
to Park-town of Redcaftle. There is alfo a road from Keflbck,
leading along the fbore from Redcaftle, and the Weft High-
lauds.
Vj% StatifticQl Account x
lands. There is no great deal of natural wood in this parlfk |
that of any extent is upon the eft ate of Ejlcoy, confiding of
alder, and is kept with great care and attention. 7nere arc
very large plantations of firs of various kinds, a(b, beech, oak
&c., on theefiates of feveral of the heritors; but the moft
extenfive, is that on the eftate of Bellmaduthy, being above
500 acres, ajl in a thriving condition, and many of them fie
for market. By the time all thefe plantations come to per*
fe&ion, or are fit for falet there will be great abundance of
wood for fupplying the pariihionejrs with timber and fuel, aa
article much wanted here, as the moffes in the parHh are
quite cxhaufted, and the inhabitants will be qeceffitated to
purchafe coak, which, with the high duty, is far beyond the
reach of the poorer, and middle clafs of people, and which,
if not fpeedily withdrawn, will oblige the inhabitants to emi-
grate to other countries, where fire is to be had in greater a*
bundance. Every poor man's countenance here fparkled with
joy, at being told of Mr. Secretary Dundas's intention of
bringing a bill this feffion into Parliament, to take the duty off
coals coming to this country, ,
Antiquities— -There are evident marks of a battle's being
fought in this parifh. It is faid to have been between the peo-
ple of Invernefs and the M'Donalds, and to have happened
in the 13th or 14th century. The plain on which this bat-
tle was fought, is to this day called Blair-na-coi ; a name
given it from this particular circumftance, that as one of the
contending parties was giving way and flying, a tenant and
his fon who were ploughing on that field, had taken off the
yokes with which the oxen were fattened together, rallied the
routed troops, and with them recommenced the aftion and
carried the day *.
Scboolr.
t It would appear the battle was bloody, and defperately fought, from the
Of Kilmuir Wtfher and Suddy. 2 73
Schools. — There are no Jet than 3 fchools in this parifh; a
parochial fchool with a (alary of 300 merits, a flated fchool
and dwelling-houfe, and a kail-yard, attended by 50 or 69
children ; a fociety fchool with a (alary of 16 1., attended by
from 35 to 45 children ; and a Sunday-fchool eftabliihed here
by Charles Grant, £fq. where 100 or inore poor people are
taught to read Gaelic and Englifli, and inftfu&ed in the prin-
ciples of the Chriftian religion ; and a]} ^ho attend this fchool
?re not only taught, but fupplied with books at Mr. Grant's
folc expenfe* It is propofed this feafop, to caufd the teacher
of the Sunday- fchool open a weekly fchool in a remote but
.populous corner of the parifh, fo as to render this institution
more beneficial to the parifhioners,
Vol. XII. M m Birds*—
vaft number of cairn* of ftoncs that are ftiH to be fcen there, covering the dead.
Thefe the people ftill hoidfo (acred, that though the place w$s in tillage "when
the battle was fought, the marks of the ridges being Hill vifible there, and
though a great deal of the adjoining moor is now cultivated, not one of thefe
cairns has been ever touched. Another circimftance that ftrengthens this opi-
nion is, that -the heights and adjacent places go by the name of Drtum-na-4tcrt
* the height or the Hill of Tears." To the E. of where the battle was fought,
are to be feen the remains of a Druidical temple, called James's Temple ; and
no the W. of the field of battle, are to be feen the traces of a camp, and a fimi-
lar one to it to the S. on the hill of Ke flock, the higheft hill in -this parifh,
tohere there is alio a pretty large cairn of ftones, called Cairn-glas. This hill,
which goes by the name of Ord-hill, belongs to Mr. Grant of Redcaftie, who
has already begun to plant it with firs and other forcft trees, and which, when
ilnifhec), will be an ornament to this and the neighbouring counties, as it lies
on the coait oppofite to Inveraefs, and is to be feen as far down as from the
tdfrvn of Elgin. I could get no fuch traditional -account of this battle, as could
induce me to commit any thing more about it to paper. One crrcumftance wor-
thy of remark is, that a very honeft and refpc&able family of farmers, date
their introduction to this parUh from that period ; and what is (till more extra-
ordinary, amidft the various changes and revolutions of time and proprietors*
they have continued in the fame poflefuon, and on the felf-fame Larach ; and
their antiquity is fuch as to become a proverb, fo that when people fpeak of a
very remote circumftance, it is a common faying among then). It is as old as
the Lohans of Drnmderfit.
./.
2 74 Statiflical Account
Birds, — There are all forts of common fowls, fuch as hens,
turkeys, geefe, ducks, &c. reared in this parilh, and it a-
bounds with fuch other birds as are peculiar to this climate
and country. The cuckoo makes his appearance at the end
of April, and the fwallow in the beginning of May. The
lapwing or grt en plover in March, and the wood-cock in Oc-
tober. There are a few moorfowl, and a black-cock has been
feen in the fir plantations of Mangrange, frequently this fea-
fon. The ground abounds with many partridges. Immenfe
numbers of fea-fowls frequent this (bore, especially in the
fifliing feafon, and the flocks of ducks of various kinds that
frequent the bay of Munlochy, are almoft incredible ; for
they fometimes cover the bay from fide to fide for a miles,
and it is aftoniftiing what it is they get there to fupport them,
as the herring never enter it. Rude geefe and fwans fome-
times come there in the winter and fpring, efpecially when
the froft is intenfe. There are a few finging birds alfo in
this parilh, fuch as the thrufh, blackbird, linnets, goldfinches
in great abundance, the bullfinch, which, I am told, has made
his appearance in this country about 20 years ago, and a great
plenty of larks.
Mifcelfaneous Qbferyations.—ThtTZ is one large cove in,
this panfh, at a place called Craig-a-chow (a name given it
for its famous echo) at the entrance of the bay of Munlochy,
it is very large and reaches far into the rock, fo far indeed
that the farmers in the neighbourhood were obliged to fhut^t
it up toward the hill with rubbifh ; for, when their iheep and
goats ft rayed into it, they were never again feen nor heard of.
The mouth of the cave was made up with ftone and lime fe-
veral years ago, by traders who fecured and fecreted fmuggled
goods in it ; but fince that contraband trade has been abolifh-
ed
Of Rilmuir Wcfter and Suddy. 275
«d on this coaft> the mafon work is fallen to decay.. The cave
could eafily contain, I am told, a whole Clip's cargo *.
There is a good deal of fea ware or wreck along the cdaft,
which is feldom converted into kelp, 'the farmers ufe it for
barley and potatoes, though a bad manure for the latter, as
the potatoes are always foft and watery that grow upon it* I
am told, it is excellent manure for raifing kail. There are 8
mills for grinding corn in this paritn ; 2 of thefe are wrought
by the {alt- water. There are but 2 lakes, one of them con*
fiderably above the level of the fea, is called the loch of Pit-
lundy. The neighbouring people allege that there have been
water cows feen in or about this lake ; but it is of too fmall
ao extent to give any (hadow of credibity to fuch an i& rtion.
In feveral parts of this pariih, quarries of free ft one have been
found, and wrought with fuccefs, and all the moors abound
with plenty of grey (lone fit for building houfes and Hone
fences. For an half mile to the W. of the village of Mun-
lochy, which lies at the head of the bay, there are evident
traces of the fea's having once covered that rich and ferule
flat, fuch as beds of (hells, Sec. ; but there is none now liv-
ing who remembers to have feen that ground overflowed by
the fea at any period.
Prices, Wages, &c— Mutton fells from 3^ d. and 4c!. down to
3 d. and 2f d. the pound. Beef and pork fell at the fame rate.
M m a Hens
* In this cave, there is a fpring of water to which the fuperftitious part of
the people attribute a medicinal effect, and (till repair to it on the firft Sunday
of every quarter, for a cure to any malady or 4ifeafe under which they happen
to labour. The water is faid to be particularly famous for reftoring the fenfe of
hearing, by pouring a Jew drops of il into the affected ear ; but this, in my
opinion, mult be owing to the cold and piercing quality of the water forcing
its way through the obftruclions of the ear. The coldnefs of this water is
greater than any I ever tailed, and no wonder, for the fun never (hincs upon it,
and it oozes through a confidcrable body of rock. '
2j6 Statifticd } AccWHt
Hens at 6d. There is little butter and cheefe fold here* Theft
articles' are bought at the neighbouring markets at los. 6&+
the ftone of butter, an.d from 4 s. to 5 s. the (tone of cheefe *»
Advantages and DiJ advantages. •— One great advantage which
this pariih enjoys, arifes from its being m the near neighbour-
hood of Inverhefs, from which it is only divided by a nar-
row kyle of the fea, over which there is a regular ferry-boat
renting 128 L Sterling. There the inhabitants get a ready-mo-
ney market for any commodity they have to offer for fale,
and get to purchafe, any article they wifli for, with little trou-
ble, and as little lofs of time* Another, arifes from the clofe
neighbourhood of Fairntofh, from whence there is a conftant
demand for their barley for making whiiky. Another advan-
tage is, that there is great plenty of freeftone quarries in the
parifli, and great abundance of clay for building comfortable
houfes and fencing their fields. Mr. M'Kenzie of Kilcoy has
been making brick of fome of this clay for % years paft for
his own ufe. They have anfwered exceedingly well; and a ma-
nufacture of this kind could be eflablifhed to a large extent
dn his eflate, within a quarter of a mile of the fiea. Another
is; that the inhabitants have water-carriage for any heavy ar-
ticles they may need, either by Keffock or Munlochy bay.
And the lait I fhall mention is, that the parifh every where
abounds with great plenty of frelh water, furhcierit not only
for the ufe of the inhabitants, but for carrying on any manu-
facture that might be cflabltlhed among them* that required
fetch an> aid*
'V Ttte
* bay-labourers get 8dl in rummer and harveft, and j.d. in winter, a-day ^
in out-fervant gets 6 bolls of meal of o ftones to the boll, and from 4I. to 5I.
wages, with fome potatoe ground, a houfe and fome fuel. Houfc fervants get"
'from 4L to 4L 10 s., a^d the common fervants who work at the farm get from'
io*»to 30 s. in the year.
Of Kihnuir Wtficrand Suddy. 277
The difadvantages, on the other hand, are many. The great-
eft, and that whfch is moft fenflbly felt by thfe* inhabitants,
axHiw from the warit of fuel ;' the whole mofles in the parttb
being quite exhaufted, and the people's having recourfe to no-
thing elfe to make op this want, bat the parchafing of a few
young planted firs which have little laft, and as littk warmth
or heat in theto. The id, arifes froifa the want of limeitone
to help to mantra the lands, or any marl, except on the
eilatca of Kilcoy and Bellinaduthy, which, from its fcatcity,
has be€n wholly cOnfih^d to their own mains, and when and
where applied, has been found tb anfwer well. A 3d difad-
vantage arifes from the want of manufactures. There are Se-
veral eligible ftations for eftablifliing manufactures in this pa*
ri£b, efpecially an woollen or linen manufacture which might
be carried on here to any extent. Indeed there are a ftations
1 in this parifli fo naturally calculated for fuch a bulinefs, tha$
it is rather furprifing that they fliould, till now, be quite ne-
gleCted; the one of thefe » at the village of Munlochy, where
there is plenty of frelh water to work any machinery, a plain
of a confiderabk extent, at leaft 100 acres, through every
part of which water may be carried with the greateft eafe,
and it is furrounded with a fine green bank facing the S. for
drying clothes, within kfs than a quarter of a mile of the
fca, and in the midft of a populous country where the inha-
bitants are defirous of employment ; and Mr. M'Kenzie of
Kilcoy, the proprietor, I am well perfuaded, would encou-
rage a company on liberal terms to fet up a manufacture
there* The other ftation is on the fliore of Kcflbck, oppofite
to the town of Ioveraefs, the property of Mr. Grant of Red-
cattle. Ships of any burden can come quite clofe to that fhore;
and Mr. Grant has told me, that he would feu out the ground
on his property along the fhore, on eafy terms, to fuch tradef-
iben a* would wUh to fettle there, and give a manufacturer
all
278 Stattflical Account
all due encouragement. This place is alfo furroundedby avaft
number of people. The laft difadvantage I fliall condefcend
upon, axifes from the fmallnefs of the farms aW (hortnefs of
the leafes ; but this I well know is owing to the poverty and
indolence of the prefent inhabitants, and I am well convinced,
if gentlemen farmers, poffefled of capitals, came to fettle in
this place, they would meet with all due encouragement, both
as to leafes and melioration, from the proprietors, who all
wifh to encourage agriculture ; and I am perfuaded, that fuch
adventurers would find, upon trial, that it would turn out. to
their own private advantage,.
NUM.
Of Forgue^ 279
NUMBER XXII.
PARISH of FORGUL
(County and Synod of Aberdeen, Presbytery pf Tur,
R£FF.)
By the Rev. Mr. William Dingwall.
Name, Extent, \3c*
np'HE ancient name of this parifh is Forig, as appears from
-*• an infcription on the communion cups. The modern
name Forgue. This name is faid to be of Gaelic original, as
are alfo many names in this parifh and country. The length
pf the parifh from N. to St may be about 9 Englilh miles j
its breadth from W. to E. variable, but the greateft between
5 or 6 miles. From fprings in the hills, defcend through the
fields various rivulets, which empty themfelves into a burns,
namely, the barns of Frepdraught and Forgue, the latter of
which is beautifully edged with natural wood.
Soil and Produce. — The foil along {he lower parts of the
pariib, 15 generally a deep loam, with a bottom of flrong ftiff
clay,
3&a Statjfiical Account
clay, and produces barley, oats, peafe, turnip, and good crops
of hay. Little wheat is fowo in the parifh, not fo much as
there was about 12 years ago, owing to the backward late
rainy feafons. The fouthern parts of the parifli, which are
called Foudland, are moftly in a ftate of nature, and covered
with heath. There are a few farms on the extremities of it,
of a light black foiL In feveral parts of the parifh, hedges
have been planted with fuccefs. When they receive proper
care and attention, they thrive amazingly* There is a quarry
of limeftone at Pitfancy, which affords a confiderable, though
not a fufficient quantity for the parifhionera and this neigh-
bourhood. The furplus grain of this parifh, which is very
confiderable, is fold to merchants in Portfoy and Banff, who
export the barley, oats, and meal, annually by fea, to the
other parts of the ifland *.
Hills. — The moll remarkable hill is called Foreman t, a part
of which is in the parifii ; it affords an ex ten five, beautiful
profpeft to thofe who vifit the top of it. Along the S. E,
expofure of this hill, ftands the houfe of Cobairdy, the pro-
perty of Sir Erneft Gordon of Park, Bart, furrounded with
a variety
* I mentioned above, two ftreams or rivulets, the one called the Burn of
Frendraught, near which is Gtuated, the feat of Alexander Morifon, Efq. of
Itagnie, beautiful by nature, but no lefs fo by the elegant and judicious tafte
of the intelligent proprietor. The other, the Buxo of Forgue, rcfemUing «
ftrath, nearly 2 miles in length, beautifully covered with alder, afh, birch, and
various kinds of trees. Thefe rivulets meet a little below where the church
ftands, running on near by the houfe of Haddo in this parifh. After a variety of
beautiful windings delighting the eye, the compound ftreara discharges itfetf
into the Dovern near the church of Inverkeithing. To the traveller and ma*
of tafte, thefe rivulets, both before and after they meet, afford many beautiful
and pi&urefque fcenes.
f Its Gaelic name is For-mon, and its perpendicular height from the Do-
vern 1006 feet.
Of Forgue. 281
a variety of fields in the higheft ftate of cultivation, enclofed
and fubdivided j an extenfive plantation of all kinds of hard
wood, which promifes an additional fource of riches to the
induftrious proprietor, and accommodation to the country*
On the N. £. fide, part of which is the property of Major
Duff of Mayen, improvements and plantations are going on
with great rapidity.
Church, Stipend, School, Poor, Sec,— The church which is
in tolerable good repair, as is alfo the manfe and office- houfes,
are fituated on the N. fide of the burn of Forgue. From the
manfe, which is about 200 yards N. of the church, there is
a beautiful variegated view of hills and dales, of groves and
plantations of various kinds. Mr. Morifon of Bognie, is pa-
tron of the church, and proprietor of more than one half of
the parifh. The oldeft date about the church, is 1638 *• The
glebe is above the legal flandard. The prefent ftipend is
500 merks Scots money, with 44 bolls of meal, at 8 ftone
the boll, and ao bolls of bear, with 50 merks Scots for com-
munion elements. — The fchoolmafter's falary is ill. as. **Ad.
Sterling, with al. 4 s. 5d. Sterling, for feffion-clerk fee* School-
fees for Latin and arithmetic, as. 6d. a-quarter ; and 2s. for
Eoglifh. — The number of poor on the roll, is 24. The col-
lections made. annually for their fupport, amount to upwards
of 40I. Sterling, including 5I. 4s. Sterling of interefl; 4L of
feat-money, and other incidents.
Population, — According to Dr. Wcbfter's report, the popu-
Vol. XII. N n lation
• Several inferiptions on the feats in it are fuppofed to refer to thofe dreadful
feuds, which in thofe days fubfifted between the family of Huntly and the fa-
mily of Frendraught in this parifh, fuch as, God fend grace without fear.*— Pa.
tience overcummis tiranny.— O paffi graviora dabit Dens, his quoque fincm.
Deus nobilcun, quis contra.— Cum omnibus pacem, adverfus vitia bellum.
282 Statiftical Account
latton in 1755, was 1802. The parifli contains in all, at pre-
fent, 1778 fouls. Of thefe, ^%o Episcopalians, a few Sece-
ders, a few Roman Catholics, and all the reft of the Efta-
blifhed Church. Our marriages annually, at an average, a-
mount to 15 ; baptifms to 36 $ and burials to 25 ; excluding
tbofe that are buried at other pariihes ; but, notwithstanding
that the number of deaths comes greatlj fliort of the births ;
yet, on account of the farms becoming larger, the lands be-
ing thrown into pafture, laid down jwith grafs-feeds, the great
advancement on fervants wages, and the increafe of manu-
factures in towns, the inhabitants of the parifli are gradually
decreafing.
State of Farming, &c— Improvements in farming are
making great progrefs. The horfe-hoeing hufbandry has been
introduced with fuccefs. Cabbages, in the field, have fcarce-
ly been raifed any where in the parifli except by the mini-
fter ; they are of the Scotch grey fort, and grow to a great
fize. They are chiefly applied for feeding the cows, and are
all horfe-hoed ?. Turnip crops have been cultivated for many
years in the broad caft, and now a great part of the crop in
the drill. The following year, thefe fields fo cultivated are
laid down with grafs-feeds. The cattle are of the Scotch
breed ; but are, of late, much improved in fize by the cul-
ture of green crops. Thefe are confumed in rearing cattle,
which is found more profitable to the farmer, than in fatten-
ing
* About 20 years ago, cabbages were raifed in the opea fields of Cobairdy,
by Sir Erneft Gordon, the outer blades of which exceeded 4 feet, and fome-
tines 4$ feet diameter; thefe cabbages, after being ftripped of their flem and
pater blades, generally weighed from 38 lib. to 48 lib. Dutch weight. Alfp»
in the fame fields, turnip had been often ra'ifed from 16 lib. to 22 lib. Dutch
weight, including the top, or blades that grow above ground. What a pity is
it that the cultivation of thefe cabbages js bow fo much negle&ed.
Of Forgue. 283
ing thbfc that are grown. There are about xooo fheep, mod
of them in the fouthern part of the pariih, of the fmall kind
owing to the peculiar nature of the pafture. Some of the
Engliih breed, and of a crofs breed from them, hare been
introduced, and are paftured upon fown grafs. The farmers
are uncommonly attentive to the breed of horfes. They fell
at 20 1. ajl., and even fome of them bring, in the market,
30 1. and upwards. Cows bred here, have been fold from 81.
to i oh; oxen at 16I. : but the common prices are greatly
[ below thefe fums. Small fized cows fell from 4I. to 5I. ;
and oxen from 61. to 10 1. The farms are of various fixes,
from 200 acres downwards ; and fome of thefe are almoft
wholly enclofed, either with Hone fences or hedges \ and fub-
divided with hedges, The rent varies, according to circum-
ftances, from xl. 10 s. to as. 6d. the acre. Many of out
farm-houfes are neat, commodious, and of the modern caft,
and covered with (late. The high eft rent in the pariih is
nol. Sterling. The valued rent of the pariih is 3936 1. 6s.
I 8d. Scots. The real rent may amount to about 2500I. Ster-
i ling. There are 14 proprietors or heritors belonging to the
pariih ; 4 of them refide in it, and one of them occafionalJy.
Moil of them have given evident marks of their tafie for
plantations and improvements. The face of the country here,
is variegated and beautiful. The proprietors and their te-„
nants, in general, extremely aftive in improving their lands,
in planting their wafte grounds, and in covering the rugged
appearance of the barren foil, with various kinds of wood.
On the property of Mr. Morifon of Bognie, there are
many thriving plantations of trees and natural wood. Upon
hills and wafte ground, there are 10 different enclofures, con-
taining about 300 acres, covered with various kinds of fir,
and hard wood interfperfed, where the foil admits. Near to
Frendraught houfe, and upon an out-farm, occupied by the
N n a fame
284 Statiftlcal Account
fame proprietor, there arc about 11 different divifions or
patches of better ground, containing about 50 acres enclofed,
and beautifully covered with larix, hard wood, and other va-
rieties of trees. Upon the fame property, along the water
fides, called the Burns of Forgue and Frendraught, there is
~alfo a large quantity of natural growing alders, perhaps to
the extent of 25 acres. From thefe woods, the people in the
parifh, and others at a diftance, have been fupplied with tim-
ber annually. And the thriving appearance of thefe planta-
tions, promifes a long continuance of that ufeful article ia
this corner.
There are feveral fpirited, induftrious, judicious, and thriv-
ing farmers in the parifh. They have brought their fields
into high culture, many of them well fenced ; being encou-
raged, in various refpefts, by their different proprietors. The
. leafes are of a peculiar nature, and highly advantageous both
for the proprietor and tenant ; particularly thofe of Mr. Mo-
ri fon, who has encouraged the tenants on his eftate, to plant
trees in wafte ground, convenient places in meadows, corners
of fields, or in hedge rows *. When we confider the utility
of
* Upon the following conditions, viz. If the field or fpot to be planted con*
tain 4 acres, the proprietor is at one half of the expenle of enclofing, and pays
the other half to the tenant at the iffue of the lcafe, if the fence be in repair.
When the trees grow up, the farmer is at liberty to weed or cut timber for any
ptirpofe about, or neceffary for the farm, ftill leaving an equal cover on the
ground. But he is prohibited from felling or difpofing of any trees, until the
iflue of the leafe, when the proprietor of the land has an option to take the
whole growing timber on the farm, and to pay the value thereof to the tenant,
as it (hall be appreciated by 2 men mutually chofen for that purpofe, or allow
the tenant 2 full years to cut down, fell, and difpofc of the whole wood on the
farm, ft> agreed upon. Thefe are the general terms of encouragement for plant-
ing ; - but where the fields or corners to be planted contain more or lefs than 4
acres ; the conditions vary according to that and other circumftances. The
proprietor has alfo hitherto given a fupply of young trees, gratis, to the plan-
ter, from his own nurfery.
Of Forgue. %%$
of plantations of trees in Scotland, not only for fupplying
the fanners, mechanicks, and others, with materials in their
refpe&ive callings ; but for warming and improving the cli-
mate, we mud allow great merit to Mr. Morifon for his
own exertions, but dill more on account of encouragement
given, and example mown to his tenants. For, I apprehend,
he Hands among the foremoft country gentlemen of the N.,
who have cither given fuch generous terms, or have been at
fo much pains to induce the tenantry to employ a little fpare
ground and time to purpofes fo patriotic, bs well as ultimate*
ly beneficial to themfelves and families. An Earl of Moray
may plant his 3000 acres, and other patriotic noblemen and
gentlemen may each exert themfelves on their own farms, or
particular corners of their eftates ; but what are thefe points
to the whole of the country ? A province, a country, a dif-
tri89 cannot be properly wooded without the afHAance of the
farmer. In that cafe, there would be a continuation of wood
to break the N. E. and other blighting winds which are the
bane of this country. When I refledl upon this, I think it
a pity, that Mr. Morifon has not conne&ed all his different
plantations into one continued extent, which would nearly
reach from one extremity of the parifh to the other, forming
an irrefiftible barrier againfl thofe points of the compafs that
bring us the word weather.
Nor is Mr. Morifon of Bognie, the only gentleman, in this
very extenfive parifh, who has diflinguifhed himfelf by at-
tempts to improve and beautify the country. Captain Shand
of Templand, has exhibited a plan of drawing water over,
and railing timber on that fmall fpot, which at firft, indeed,
attrafted fome notice, merely from its novelty and lingula-
rityfl but his plantations having fucceeded beyond what was
expc&ed, his fcheme has rather become exemplary, at leaft,
I am fure, that all the tenants on the eftates of Bognie, who
have
286 Statijiical Account
have embraced the liberal propofal of their landlord, have
executed their plantations on the Captain's principles and
ideas. This officer, after an abfence of 12 or 13 years in the
fervice of his country, returning again to his native foil, in
the year 1784, and finding his property then a perfect wafte,
took up the resolution of enclofing it with double ftone fences
and ditch. After which, it occurred to him, that the interme-
diate fpace included between the fences, might as well take in
(if it could be fo contrived) all, or greateft part of the word
fcil ; and thus he at laft conceived the comprehenfire and un-
common defign of fencing the arable by the barren ground ;
not doubting, when the latter was filled with all proper kinds
of young trees, that his bed fields would thereby, in due
time, be well fee u red and protected from blighting winds and
fiorms. Every fucceeding year gives frelh teftimony of the
propriety of the original plan : For it has been executed un-
der almoft every difadvantage, particularly his own abfence,
and the intermediate management of people incapable of en-
tering fully into his views. The plan for watering the farm
of Templand, is no lefs worthy of notice, than the planting,
though the proprietor's abfence, and many other unfavour-
able circumftances, have united to render the fuccefs lefs*
However, there is fuulcient evidence from the little that has
been done, that water fediment, and other effects arifing from
flooding, with large dreams, is probably the very bed me-
thod of meliorating ground, and exterminating the mod per-
nicious weeds. It alfo appears from the Captain's experi-
ments, that water properly conducted through young timber
plantations, is the cheapeft and bed method of encouraging
their growth. This gentleman's ideas in conducting great
currents of water for agricultural purpofes, have been ex-
tended to carry plans of inland navigation into execution,
upon moderate expenfes, as appears by his epidolary cprrc-
fpondence
Of Forguc. 287
fpondence with gentlemen in this country, and from fome re*
cent publications. But this, not belonging to a ftatiftical ac-
count, I (hall leave it to others.
We niuft not pafs by the improvements and plantations of
Captain George Morifon, laie of Haddo. Haddo lies on the
N. W. fide of the burn of Forgue, about an Engliih mile
below where the church (lands, keeping the courfe of the ri-
vulet. The houfe (lands on a gradual (loping bank, a few
yards from the burn, built after the modern tafte, and af-
fords genteel accommodation for a large family. On the
haugh between the rivulet and water courfe to the mill, lies
the garden, fenced with a high (lone wall, and well ftored
with a great variety of fruit trees and bufhes. At no great
diftance from the houfe, there are feveral patches of thriving
plantatiops of fir, alder, birch, &c. The fields are well cul-
tivated, and yield good crops. Taking the whole in one
view, Haddo is one of the mod pleafant fituations in this or
the neighbouring country, and is juftly admired for it$ va-
riegated profpeft, by every perfon of tafte and difcernment.
Some of the other heritors have begun to plant, enclofe, and
improve their fields ; but their improvements are in an infant
flate *.
Antiquities. — Till lately, the Roman antiquities have been
little attended to in this country. By many, it was even be
lieved
* Wages and Price /.— The wages of fervants have increafed greatly within a
few years. A capable ploughman receives from 61. to 7 1. It is faid, that fome
of them draw 81. A female fervant zL 10s. to 3I. a.year. To a man in
harveft is.; to a woman od.t with victuals ; to a day-labourer from 6 d. to Sd-9
with victuals ; to a mafon 1 s. 2d. ; to a wright Sd. ; and to a tailor 66. to 8d.
with victuals. The price of provifions has increafed confiderably fince 17S0.
A hen which fold at 4d.f now gives Sd. and pd. Beef and mutton fell from
s|d. 3d. to 4d. the pound. Butter fells at 8d. the pound, %z ounces; an£
cheefe from 4s. 6<L to 5 s. the ftone weight.
288 Statl/iical Account
lieved that the troops of that warlike people, had never pe-
netrated, by land, beyond the Grampian mountains, fiat
Captain Shand of this parifh, juftly admiring the wife policy
of the-Romans, in their military arrangements* was anxious*
fome years ago, to trace the remains of the numerous field
works, executed by their armies, during their operations in
• North Britain, and from an accurate infpe&ion of them, was
convinced, that the fortifications on the Barra-hill, and the
extenfive camp oppofite to Glenmealin, were as much Ro-
man, as the topographical veftiges he had oblerved in Strath-
more, and other South- Grampian countries *.
Roads*— The roads are not in very good repair, owing, in
a great meafure, to the nature of the foil, and the ftatute-la-
bour being commuted. It would be better to levy the mo-
* It is not a little remarkable, that the larger works in this parifh, are at-
tended the fame as in the fouth country, with fmaller one% fome round, and
others of a rectangular figure. The circular redoubt' on the S. E. acclivity of
the feed-hill of Auchaber, about a fliort m'Je from the camp, is well prefervcd.
and appears to have been an entrenched guard for a fmall number of men, be-
ing only ?o common paces in diameter, including both the vallum and the
body of the place. Proceeding from this remarkable fpot, in a nearly N. W.
direction, for 5 or 6 miles, by Woodfide in the lands of Frendraught, the Riach-
hill, the Riach-burn, and Auchingoul, one very frequently meets with remains
that are not farmers works ; and though tradition, and the prevailing opinion
of the country people, place them ameng military, yet they can fcarcely be
called fo, on account of being fo much mutilated. But it feems worthy of ob-
fervation, that if the Statio ad Itbwtam, u fituated (as there is great reafon to
think) at the confluence of the barn of Auld Davit in this parifh, with the
Ythan, the track juft pointed out, cannot be widely diftant from the great
coniulor road, in Ptolemy's Itinerary ;' and a learned antiquary, a friend of
mine, now deceafed, thought he had difcovered the actual antique can few ay
leading on through Forgue, Deflcford, and towards Spey, upon the fame paint
of the-cempafs. There axe alio veuiges of feveral Druidical temples in the
parifli.
Of Forgue. 289
Ticy, and to employ labourers, under direction of an attentive
and capable overfecr. We have reafon to conclude, that were
there a bridge thrown over the Dovern, at Marnoch, and an-
other over the burn at Auchintender, on the great road to
Aberdeen, through the Garioch, it would contribute much to
the advantage of this country,
Mifcellaneous Olfervations. — The crop in 1782, was re-
markably deficient, and the oat-meal very*bad ; in fo much,
t^at fra^l it not been .for the importation, numbers would bape
perifhed. Some of the heritors pommiflioned a cargo of peafe,
and fold them out at prime cod to the mod necefiitous fami-
lies, Mcffrs. Fhyn and Ellis *, merchants in London, gave
a liberal gratuity of barley and peafe, amounting to 800
bufhels, to be diftributed among the moft diftreffed families in
Forgue and Auchterlefs. It was fuppofed, that the crop did
dot yield proviiion for the pariftnoners, for the half of the
year 1783. At the defire of the heritors, the feffion lifted
40 1., and difpofed of it to the fame purpofe, over and above
their ordinary diftribution. The air is falubrious, the peo-
ple, in general, healthy, fober, induftrious, charitable, hospi-
table, and moft pun&ual in attending public worlhip f .
Vol. XII. Qb NUM-
* Mr. Pbyn is an hertor of Forgue, and Mr. -Ellis a native of Auchterlefs.
f There is no village in the pariih, and consequently no manufacture. The
women are occupied in^fpinning lineu yarn, from flax given out by merchants
in the pariflu
The ufual fuel in this parifh, is peat and turf, which is brought from Foud-
Jand; but, on account of the great diftance and difficulty of procuring it, many
of the parishioners are obliged to bring coals, at a great expenfe, from J^anff
and Portfoy, our nearcft fea-port towns ; which are diftant from the centre gf
. the pariih, at leaft, 17 Englifh miles. Which circumftance, we think, maybe
adduced as an argument for taking off the prefent heavy duty on coaL
4
2$9 Statyticat Acc&unt,
NUMBER XXIII.
PARISH of RDTHVIN.
(Cotjktt or Forfar, Synod of Angtjs^ Presbtoux 9?
Msiolx.)
By the Rev. Mr. James Will.
Situation^ Extent, S*i/t and Produce.
rT1H£ parifli of Ruthvcn is pleafantly fituated on the N«
-*• fide of Strathmore, near the foot of the Grampian
moimtains, doping gently towards the S. Nearly of a fquare
form, it contains about 1700 acres, of which 63 are covered
with natural oaks, 240 with fir and hard wood, 40. of heath,
to be planted, 30 of marl-mires, and 16 of peat-mob : The
reft is partly arable, and partly tp be improved during the
currency of the prefent leafes. The foil, 18 general, is a light
hazel mould, with a gravelly bottom, producing excellent
grain, but liable to be parched in a dry fummer. The pre*
fent proprietor has been at great pains to introduce the mo*
dent improvement* in agriculture^ which he has accompliflied
OfRutbveri* >
iit * eonnderable degree, by reftri&iag his tenants to ft rota*
tioo of cropping the laft time their farms were let. The ro-
tation is as follows : field, 1 ft, graft; ad, ditto ; 3d, ditto ; 4th,
oats; 5th, barley; 6th, oats; 7th, fallow! or green crop; 8th,
barley with grafs-feeds. The tenants, from the prejudices of
education, came into tfcefe improvements rather relu&antly at
firft. They are now, however, as forward in them as their
neighbours, and begin to experience the advantages of them.
They are reftri&ed from railing wheat or flax, in considerable
quantities, becaufe thefe have been found to be rather exhauft-
ing crops for the foil. The parifli, however, was always re-
markable for producing fine flax, but more fo, it is faid, be-
fore the introduftion of marl. A greater quantity, indeed,
might be raifed now than formerly, but, in the opinion of ex-
perienced farmers, there is no companion as to the quality.
The foil is favourable for turnip and trees of every kind, fuit«
ed to the climate. The larix, in particular, grows with nn«
common quicknefs, fome of diem only 1 j years old, having
meafured 46 inches root girth. Oaks grow naturally ; and
in a former period fome of them were of great fixe, if we may
judge from two which have remained time immemorial in the
old courfe of the river Ifla, about a mile below the church.
Name amd Proprietors.— -The etymology of the name is
doubtful *• It was anciently exprefled in the plural, Ruth-
Vens, having been divided into two parts, and belonged to two
different proprietors : That on the £• fide of the river Ifla wa*
termed Earls Ruthven, as having been the property of the
O o a Earl
* It is pronounced Riven ; and, if a conjecture might be hazarded in a mat*
ter of fo much uncertainty, might be fnppofed to be compounded of the Gaelic
words roy (red), and vean (white), perhaps from the foil in general abounding
with fmall white ftones, or rather from the appearance of the rocks, on the
banks of the river in the N. fide of the parifli, which are of a red colour, but in
many places whitened over with age.
19 * Statifticai Account
Earl of Crawford, who, at one period, pofleffed a great part
of the county of Forfar ; the other part was called Ruthvens
Davy, as having belonged to the laird of Kippen Davy. A-
bout 1380, both thefe eftates came into the poffeffion of
a branch of the family of Crichton, who kept them until
1742*. After the Frendraught family became extind, and
the Dumfries family failed in the male line, the head of the
Ruthven family became chieftain of the ancient and illuftri-
ous name of Crichton. Upon the death of the late Thomas
Crichton, Efq. of Millhill, and his brother William, the fa-
mily of Crichton of Ruthven failed in the male line alio* The
remaining part of their eftates, which had been once very ex-
tenfive in this neighbourhood, was purcbafed 50 years ago by
Thomas Ogilvy, Efq. of Coul, and is now in the poffeffion of
his fon James Ogilvy, Efq. of Iflabank, who refldes in this
parish, and has built an excellent modern houfe, near the
.much admired fituation of the caftle of Ruthven, which, be*
ing ruinous, was pulled down fome years ago.
JKilij, River, Black-fijbing, Bridge*— -There are no hills in
this
•The firft of tnat family who held the barony ef Ruthven was James, fecond
^on of Stephen Crichton of Cairns, brother to George Crichton, Earl of Caithnefc,
And coufin to Sir William Crichton of Crichton, Lord Chancellor of Scotland.
In the year 1477, James Crichton of Ruthven was Lord Provoft of Edinburgh ;
another of the fame name, who had the honour of knighthood, was mailer of
horfe to King Charles II* It is faid, that the haughty difpofition of Sir James
prevented him from enjoying long his elevated ftation ; and that his merry mo-
narch having, on a particular occasion, made him a prefent of 500 1., with a re-
commendation to " creilh his boots" with itr alluding to his country and his
office, the knight took offence at the expreffion, returned the money, refigned
his office, and retired to Scotland. But, habituated to the extravagance of a
court he had abandoned, he diffipated his fortune, and gave a blow to the fa-
mily eftate which it never recovered. There is a fine portrait of Sir James by
Vandyke, in the pofleffion of his descendant, in the female- line, John Kinloch,
SK}. of KJIrie.
Of Ruthwn. ft$j
this pariih, though fome rifing grounds improperly retain *hat
name. Upon one of thefe, called Candle-bill, the place is to
be fcen where the barons of Ruthven erected a gibbet in feu-
dal times. Two of thofe eminences are diftinguiibed by th*
name of Laws, upon one of which there was a large cairn
fome years ago. The only river in the pariih is the Ilia,
which, after bounding it for upwards of a mile on the N*
fide, turns fuddenly in die direction from N. W. to S. E., di-
viding the pariih into two unequal parts, leaving the largeft
on the £• fide. The upper part of its courfe is rocky and
winding, with bold and fteep banks, covered in many places
with natural woods, and affording fome very romantic fcenery.
After paffing the Lin, which is a fall over feveral ridges of
broken rock, the river refolves itfelf into a pool, called the
Corral, probably a corruption of Quarry-hole, there appear-
ing to have been a quarry on the E. fide* at fome remote pe-
riod. This pool is deep and broad, but becomes more {hal-
low toward the S., and ends in the broad ford* famous in the
annals of black fifliing. Upon leaving the ford, the river di-
vides itfelf into two branches* forming a fmall ifland, called
Stanner I (land, containing about 6 acres : afterward, diverfi-
fied with rapid ftreams and gentle meanderings, it continues
to expend through level and fertile fields. In winter, the low
grounds are greatly injured by the river fliifting its courfe,
carrying away the rich foil, and depofiting barren fend and
gravel in its place. It would be greatly to the advantage
both of proprietors and tenants, that a ftraight channel was
cut for this river, through its baughs or low grounds, for
about 8 miles, from the S. fide of this pariih, where the river
begins to take a direction to the weft ward, to the bridge of
Cupar Angus. The river is well flocked with trout and fal-,
mon. In the months of October and November, the latter
CQmc here to fjpawn, at which time great hayock is made a*
snong
&$4 Statijiical Account
moDg them by the Mack fifhers. The pra&ice of black* h(fci
ing is fo called, becaufe it is performed in the eight time, of
becattfe the filh are then black or foul. At this feafon, they
frequent the gravel I j (hallows, where the female digs confi-
derable holes, in which (he depofits the roe. Daring this o-
peration, which ufually continues for feme weeks, the male"
attends her, and both are in a very torpid flate. The black-
fiihers, provided with fpears, compofed of 5 barbed prongs*
fixed upon a ftrong (haft, wade up and down upon the mal-
lows, preceded bj a great torch, or blaze, as it is called, con-
fiding of dried broom, or fir tops, fattened round a pole. By
this light the fi(h are foon difcerned, and being then very dull,
are eafily transfixed. Formerly regular, fifli courts (as they
were called), were held once a-year at lead, before the juftices
of the diftrid, where perfons fufpeded of this pra&ice were
put upon oath, and if they refufed to clear themfelves in that
manner, or if their guilt was proved by proper evidence, they
were liable to fines and imprifonment. At prffent, no atten*
tion is paid to prevent a practice equally againft the laws of
the country, deftruftive of the health, and fubverfive of the
morals of thofe who follow it. The fifli, at this feafon, are
very unwholefeme food; the ftrongeft conft i tut ions often fuf-
fer from wading up to the middle in water for hours together
in the dead of the night of all the year ; and a black-fifhing
match often ends in drunkennefs and debauchery. There is
a bridge of % arches over the river Ida in this parifli, on the
high road from Dunkeld and Blairgowrie to Kerriemuir and
Brechin. It is not known when it was built, but, from its
conftruftion, being narrow, appears to be ancient. It was
lately repaired, and is of great fervice to the country, there
being only other 2, befides it, upon the river, from its fource
at Caentochan, in the head of Glenifla parifh, to its junction
with the Tay at Kinclaven, in a ftretch upwards of 40 miles.
The
• Of Ruthven. 994
The many melancholy accidents which have happened at ou«
of the fords of this river, might be expe&ed to work upon
the feelings of all concerned, fo far as to induce them to ad^
pne more at leaft to the number..
Ecclefiaftical Matters, Stipend, Poor, tfi.— Tradition fays,
that the church of Ruthven was eroded by the Earl of Craw-
ford, proprietor of the barony of Inverquiech, for the accom*
modation of b,is tenants, feveral of them having been killed
by the Rollos of Balloch, in going to their parish church of
Alyth. Afterward, when the turbulent neighbours were re*
moved, and the church became of no further ufe to the te-
nants of Inverqutech, the proprietor of Ruthven got that Imu
rony crofted into a {Separate parifli, and obtained the Earl of
Crawford's chapel, which lay convenient, to be the parifli
fhurch, and the laqds mortified to its minifter to be a glebe*
It does not appear how this tranfa&fon was brought about,
probably it might have been through the interference of tho
abbot of Arbroath, who was both patron of the parifli, and
titular of the tithes. Upon the forfeiture of the Panmuir fa-
mily, in 1715, the right of patronage devolved to the
Prow* : the minifter is titular of the tithes by a gift in the
year 1634, from the Marquis of Hamilton), then proprietor
of the Abbey.lands, to Mr, Patrick Crichton, minifter of
Ruthven, and his fucceffors in office. The flip end is below
the minimum, and has never been augmented. The glebe,
confiding of upwards of 20 acres of good foil, is pleafantly
fituated on the W. bank of the river Ifla, with a gentle flope
to the S. and E. The living, including, the glebe, may be
reckoned rather better than 60 1. communibus annu. — There
is a fund of upwards of 100 1. for the fupport of the poor,
which was lately augmented by a legacy of 20 1. from Mr„
^ndrew Pitcairn, writer in Dundee, whofe father, Mr. Ro-
bert
29$ Statiftical Account
bert Pitcairn, was the firft minifter here after the Revolution,
The colle&ions amount to about 5 1. yearly. There is at
prefent only one poor family, confiding of a mother and 3
children, who receive a weekly allowance from the fund*
Rent of the Pari/b, Population find Manners. — The prefent
rent of the parifh is 630 1. All the lefifes have 17 years to
run, except one, which will expire in 3 years ; and a confr*
derabfe rife of rent is expected from that farm. The above
rent is exclufive of the oak, and ^other plantations, the mofs-
marl, the annual value of which cannot eafily be ascertained.
The oaks are fold once in 20 years for the bark ; the lad time
they were cut down, about 18 years ago, they gave nearly
200 1. From the increased value of oak-bark, a very great
rife is now ejcpeded. At the laft cutting, between 3000 and
4000 of the bed trees were refcrved, which have thriven re-
markably.
According to Dr. Webfter's report, the population in 1755
was a8o. The number of the parifhioners in all, is now
a20 : The medium number of births, for the laft 7 years, is
7, and of deaths 4. The parifh has been gradually on the
(Lecreafe, owing to the enlarging of the farms. This has alfo
contributed, in a great degree, to the removal of the cottagers *•
The
• The tenants being reftricted from ftibfeuing more .or left, are effectually
prevented from having cottagers upon the old eftablifhment. Until very lately*
all of them had their proportion of theie ufeful dependants. Every cottager
family in this parifli, poflefled a houfe, garden, grafs for one cow, and one com-
puted acre of good ground. The aground was laboured by the farmer, who alfo
drove out their dung, brought home their corn and fuel, confiding of peat ai*J
turf. The one half of their acre was in oats, the other in barley. The rent
was x L a-man reaper in harveft. The cottager and his family were fubjeel to the
call of the farmer, for what other work he might need, and were paid accord-
ing to the rate of the country. With jthefe advantages, and their awn induitfy
I
Of Ruthvcn. 297
The pariftrioners are all of the Eftabliflicd Church, except a of
the Church of England, who attend publk worihip regular*
lj in the parifh church, while they refide here. The pariihi-
oners, for the mod part, are employed in agriculture ; there
are, however, a few manufacturers, tradefmen, millers, and
day-labourers. They are, in general, honeft, fober and in-
duftrious, living peaceably tod comfortably. The ague waa
formerly very common among them, probably from their
poor Way of living ; but now it is fcarcely ever heard of.
Antiquities. — On the S. and W. fide of the parifh, there is
in ccclofure of great antiquity, concerning the ufe of which
tradition gives no account. It is nearly of a fquare form,
and contains about an Engliih acre of ground. The walls,
-Which are of earth, as far as can be judged, have been origi-
nally of Confiderable height and breadth. A deep and wide
ditch on the outfide of th#wall, filled with water from an ad-
joining morafs, is ftill almoft entire. This fort, now known
by the name of Caftledykes, was probably a piace of retreat
to the neighbourhood in times of turbulence and barbarifm.
The north part of this parifh is faid to have been the fcene of
engagement between the Engliih and Scotch forces, under
King Edward and Robert Bruce. Although there is no men-
tion of this fkirmiih in hiftory, yet it is confirmed by feveral
monuments of antiquity and tradition : confirmed in this man-
her, it muft ever be valuable in a country where authentic re-
cords have been deftroyed by the barbarous policy of its in-
vaders. The Engliih army feems, at this time, to have been
Vol. XII. . P p ftatxoned
At home, the cottagers, in general, lived comfortably according to their ftation,
and brought up a numerous and hardy offspring. For the molt part they have
emigrated to the manufacturing towns, and their removal has proved, in many
fcefpects, an eflential loft to the interefts of agriculture, particularly for one ar-
ticle, having rendered country fervaau and day-labourers yery expenJive» and
difficult to be got*
298 Statiftical Account
ftationed on the S. fide of Strathmore, at Inglifton, (i. e. Eng-
Hfli town) where remains of their camp are ftill dUcernible ;
the Scotch forces, or a confiderable part of them, at leaft, on
the N. fide of the ftrath, at the foot of the Grampian moun-
tains, having their front covered by the river Ifla. A coni-
cal mount in this parifh, called Saddle-hillock, is faid to have
been made ufe of by the Englifh, perhaps to command the
ford at Dellavaird, whilft their troops marched over to at*
tack, the Scotch, and to have received its name from fome cir-
cumftance which took place on that occafion* but which is not
diftinftly related. The hillock ftands upon a very level field,
is of confiderable height, and has upon its top the remains of
a fmall earthen fort, evidently artificial ; and appears from an
opening made in its fide, to have been compofed of large
{tones, fome of which are fmoothed, as if they had been taken
from the bed of the river. Whether it was erected on this
occafion, or whether it might not Ave been much more an-
cient, it is not eafy to determine* It Would appear that the
Englifh were repulfed in their attempt to ford the river, pur-
fued by the Scotch, and bfbught to an engagement, to the
S. of the river, and hillock above mentioned, where, under
a huge cairn in the E. moor (heath) of Ruthven, their dead
are faid to be buried. On the S. fide of the river, in the pa-
ri(h of Alyth, the place where the Scotch forces were fta-
tioned, ftill goes by the name of Brucetown ; and 2 large
Handing ftones are ftill to be feen erected in remembrance of
this event. Upon one of thefe is a reprefentation of a horfe-
fhoe, an emblem fufficiently expreffive in the eventful hiftory
of the celebrated Scottifh hero *.
In
• This evidentJ f alludes to Brace's narrow efcape from England, when Ed-
ward had reiblved to murder him. " Bruffius interea per comitecu Goraeriae a~
▼itum axnicum certior de repeatiao pcriculo fa&us ; qui son aufui fugse confix
Hum
Of Ruthven. 399
In the E. moor above mentioned, are two large granites, a
fpecies of ftone rather uncommon in this neighbourhood,
Handing ereft, between 5 and 6 feet above ground, at the dis-
tance of 12 feet from each other, and having each a flat fide
fronting due S. There are 2 fmaller ftones to the S. of the
large ones, and 48 feet diftant 6*901 them, and at right angles,
&ut 12 feet diftant from each other. The largeft granite is
cm the W. fide,- and 20 feet in circumference. Thefe ftone*
wght be confidered as fome Druidical monument ; the more
fo, as the farm adjoining is called DrafFan, which, according
to feme, is a corruption of Druidum Fanum, that is a temple,
or place of worfhip of the Druids *.
Several ftone coffins have been dug up in the parifh, con-
taining fragments of human bones, apparently of great fize.
Befides the cairns above mentioned, there is a number of
fmaller ones in this parifh, one of which, known by the name
of Grian^s Gref, faid to have been erected upon the grave of
a noted robber, feems™ indicate, that the fepulchural tumulus
was not always raifed in honour of the dead.
Minerals, Mofs and Marh — The parilh abounds in mineral
fprings,
Hum litteris commit tere, Eruflii excmplo monitus, ad eum calcaria inauratt,
f.ummcfque aliqmot aureos miiit, tanquam fuperiore haec die mutuo ab co acce-
piflct. Robertus, ut in periculis homines funt fagaciores, non ignarus quid co
manere' fignificaretur, fabram de nocle accerfit, trium c quorum foleas inverfas ac
prepofteras equis affigere jubet, ne veftigia, veluj abeuntiuro, per nivem fugam
proderet. — Buch.
* Unfortunately for this conjecture, the following doubts occur :— I. It i*
doubtful if the Druids had any temples that were rectangular, or even circular,
or any places of worfhip whatever, except groves. 2. It is doubtful if any
Druids inhabited this part of the ifland. 3. Granting they did, it is doubtful
if they or our forefathers, at that time, knew any thing of the Latin language.
If the learned antiquary could fufficiently remove the two firft of thefe, the
Jatter might eafily be got over, by fuppofing the name to have been of a latter
4*te.
300 Statijiical Account
fprings, feemingly of different kinds, but their medicinal qua-
lities have never as yet been ascertained. A fteel fpring was
difcovered lately near the manfe* It is generally pure, but
at times turbid, emitting periodically confiderable quantities
of reddifli ochrey fubftance. There is a peat-jnofe in the pa~
rifli, but it is difficult of accefs, except in a very dry flimsier.
The principal dependence of the parishioners for fuel, is upon
coal from Dundee, the neareft fea port. The parifh contains
(hell mar]9 of very fine quality. It is found, for the moft part,
under peat-mofs ; fometimes, however, under fand, and, what
is remarkable, at one place, under a bed of pure clay, upwards
of 3 feet thick. There is, indeed, a field of clay in the neigh*
bourhood, but, as there is no running water near it, except
final! fprings, it is not eafy to conceive the length of time re*
quifite for thefe, or the ordinary wafhing of rain-water, to
have carried away and depofited fuch a tenacious fubftance as
clay, to fuch a thicknefs above the marl, which, from its na-
ture, mull have been formed by degrWs in the bottom of a
lake! It is upwards of 50 years fince this ufeful manure was
difcovered; but, fuch was the ignorance and obftinacy of the
country people, that it was a long time before they would a-
vail themfelves of it. It is even told, that fome of the neigh-
bouring proprietors were under the neceffity of binding their
tenants under a penalty to make ufe of a certain quantity of
it yearly. Afterward, however, when they began to per-
ceive its effe&s upon the foil, from want of reftri&ion, they o-
vercropped fome of their fields to fuch a degree, that they
feel the effe&s of it to this day, and, in fome places, are re-
duced to a caput mortuum. A darg of marl i. e. as much as
could be cad up with one fpade in one day, amounting often
to aoo bolls, did not coft then above i8d. or as.; it is now
fold at 10 d. a-boll, at the neighbouriog mofs of Baikie, in
the pariih of Airly, their being none difpofed of at prefent in
this
f
Qf Rutbvtn. 301
this parifli. A vein of clay mail, of a rtd and yellow colour,
was obferved hem feveral years ago, and fouad to anfwer well
with the dry ground*. It was afterward discovered to be a
ipocies of fuller's earth ; but the d&overy came too late, a*
the vein by that time was nearly cxhanfted*
Advantageous Situation for Machinery.— At Balbiraie, up-
on the E. iide of the river lux, there is a good fitnation for a
diftillery. Farther up the river, and on each fide of the Ion,
where the corn and waalkmilla ftand, there are excellent fitu-
atioas for machinery, where, with lktle expenfe, a great bo-
dy of water could be procured duriag the whole year, to any
aeceffary height. There are two other fituattons for mills,
at prefent unoccupied. The one at the bridge on the N- fide,
where there was a waulk (or fulling) mill formerly ; the o-
the* at a little diftance on the S. fide of the bridge, where a
lint-mill flood ibme years ago. It might he mentioned, that
there would be a capital fituation for machinery on the wa-
ter ridge of the glebe, with an excellent freefloae quarry,
within 200 yards of it* What would be greatly in favour of
this fituation, is, that the low glebe, confiding of about zo
acres of fine foil, lies diredly above the water ridge, is very
level, and might be watered, in every direction* for bleaching
ground, by a fmall rivulet which never dries up, called the
Kirkton burn. The abundance of freeftone in this parifli, \t&
centrical fituation to the manufacturing villages of Cupar An*
gus, Alyth, and Kirriemuir, its moderate diftance from the
flourifhing to*a of Dundee, being only 15 miles, and I a of
thefe upon a turnpike road ; the pleefantnefs and fertility of
the country, and the reafonable price of provisions added to
the water-falls above mentioned, feem to concur in pointing
out this little parifli as a deferable fpot for machinery and 1
gufafture* Something of this kind is much wanted to quick-
fn
302 Statiftud Jenunt
en the induftry of the tenants, and give a ready market to
many articles at present of little value. It is to be hoped,
that tbefc natural advantages will not always be overlooked,
and that an obierving and iadnftrioos age will at length avail
itfelf of rircumftances lb Jtrikingly favourable*
State of tie Parifb 50 years ago. — Agriculture was in the
fame rude ftate in this pariih 50 years ago, that it had been
for time immemorial, without any improvement or alteration
whatever. A (mall portion of the farm, called the infield,
which lay contiguous to the houfe, received all the dnng, and
was kept conflantly in crop with barley and oats, or fame*
times with flax, as the ground was in condition to bear it.
The reft of the farm was called the outfield, and kept for
paflute, in fuch natural gnus as it could produce. That
part of the outfield which was arable, after remaining three
years in grafs, was cropped far other three years fuccef*
fively with black oats, an inferior kind of grain, of which a
bolls at leaft were required to give z boll of meal. Unac?
quainted with the method of raifing artificial grafies, and un-
able to maintain their beftial upon their fcanty pafture, the
tenants were under the neceffity of fending the greater part of
them to the glens in the Highlands, from the conclufion of the
feed-time, about the beginning of June, until about the mid-
dle of September. From the want of turnip, and other green
food, their cattle were poorly fed in winter, and their cows,
gave little or no milk. In place of milk, they were necefli-
tated to have recourfe to the wretched fubftkute of (krine, or
unboiled flummery, prepared from the refufe of oatmeal faaked
in water. A cow was never known to have a calf oftener
than once in two years. Animal food was never feen in a
farmer's houfe above once or twice a-year. The rent was
trifling, but the tenant was ina&ive, perfiltiog in the beaten,
track
Of Rutbvtn. 303
track of imperfeft agriculture, and feldom feeking beyond
doily fubfiftcnce. Yet thofe who have lived to experience the
wonderful change which half a century has produced, do not
fay that they were formerly unhappy ; fatisfied with little,
if none of them were rich, neither were there any really poor.
Their great dependence at that time was upon their iheep, of
which they bred and maintained confiderable numbers. Af-
ter the Separation of the crop from the ground, the fields be-
came then a kind of common pafturage, until the enfuing feed-
time ; but upon the introdu&ion of fown grafs and turnip, it
became neceffary to put away the Iheep ; and there are now
only a very few for private ufe. The whole of the wool
was manufa&ured in the parifh into a kind of coarfe wool-
len cloth, with part of which the farmer, clad himfelf and
family; the remainder was fold to help to pay the rent. • All
the flax which was then raifed, and which, like the wool, was
confiderable in quantity, but more fo in quality, was manu-
fa&ured in the parifh for home confumption, or fold in yarn*
The following table, from good information, may ferve to give
a comparative (late of this parifh, and even throw fome light
on the date of other parishes, not only at the period alluded
to, but for a long time back*— ATcf* : 50 years are mentioned,
becaufe fome authentic documents refer to that period. No al-
teration whatever was obferved here, until about 35 years
ago. In thefirft column in the article Servants Wages, there
are fome perquifites called bounties, amounting from 5 s. to
iqs. yearly, not included ; in the fecond column all thefe
perquifites are included.
Compa-
3*4
Statiftkal Accent
CotftARATive SfATfi of the Parish for Years 1 7 41 tad i^#*
1
Ittofe marled thus *, ar# conversion prices, and may be
reckoned a JhUling at leqft below the market*
Number of pariftiioners,
— — of tenants, -
• ■■ of ploughmen, -
«■ ■ df work-horfes, - *
■ of work-cattle, -
■ of young cattle bred
yearly, -
. of cattle maintained
yearlyr -
■■■ ■ 1 of fheep, -
of lbs. of wool, -
of ftones of hay, -
of acres of turnip,
Rent of the pariib, -
Wages of a man ferrant. -
of a halflin (between
man and boy), - - -
r of a herd, - - -
. of a woman fcrvant,
. ■ . ■ of a man reaper, -
■ of a woman reaper,
of a day labourer,
with vidtiafo,
Price of a horfe, - - -
*- of an ox, - - - -
of a calf, - - - -
■ of a ftieep, - - - -
■ of a hog, - - - -
of a cart, - - - -
■ ■ of a plough, • * - -
of wheat, the boll, -
— of barley and oatmeal,
— of peafe, - - - -
— — of feed oats, - - •
*74*-
280
40
3*
1;
40
210
105a
5*5
None
None
L. 280 o o
200
o 11 8
° 5 <?
o *3 4
0 11 if
0 8 xoi
o
5
o
o
2 10
O 4
O 4
O II
• 15
o 2
3
o
o
o
o
o
6
* o 8 icf
0 11 i\
220
12
37
5*
None
82
378
12,000
50 ''
L.630 o o
10 o o .
5 o 6
1 id o
400
1 10 a
19 0
O O IO
25 o o
o
a
0
o
o
o
o
0
o
o
Price
8 o
0 16
6 XO
ft 6
9 o
2 2
1 1
o 16
o 15
o 16
Of Ruthven.
3°5
1741.
1793.
Price of malt, r - - -
L.o iz
**
L.x 4
0
■ of corn with fodder, -
z 0
0
.1 0
0
— — of hay the ftone, - -
0 0
4
of flax, - - - - -
0 15
0
0 12
0
of butter, . - - -
0 5
0
O X2
0
of cheefe, -
0 3
6
0 5
6
of wool the lib. - -
0 X
0
0 0
xo
— — of beef, motion and
pork, ------
0 0
X
0 0
3i
■ of a hen, * - - -
0 0
4
0 1
0
of a chicken, - - -
© 0
2
0 0
4
— — of eggs the dozen, -
0 0
1
0 0
4
Vol. XII.
Q^q
NUM.
306 Stafiflical Account.
NUMBER XXIV.
PARISH of AUCHTERLESS.
(Countt ajwd Synod of Aberdeen Presbytery of Tu&»
REF.)
By the Rev. Mr. Alexander Rose.
Name, Situation, Extent, Soil, &e.
THE name of the parifh is faid to be derived from the
Gaelic. It is about 7 miles long and 3 broad. The
foil is various ; in fome places a deep black mould, but the
greater part is light and gravelly, intermixed with clay, which
is early, and produ&ive of good crops. There are no moun-
tains nor hills. A fmall river or rivulet called Ythan, abound-
ing with trouts, which takes its rife from two fprings, runs
from the S. W. to the N. E., and paffes through the parifh.
In fummer it can be ftepped over in many places* but gradu-
ally increafes by the addition of many other ftreams as it
glides along towards the fea, and becomes a pretty large river
at Ellon, where a fine bridge has lately been built.
Population*
r
Of Aucbterhfs. 307
Population— According to Dr. Webfter's report, the po-
pulation in 1755 was 1264* When the prefent incumbent
was fettled here in 17749 and vifited his parifh next fpring,
there were 1360 fouls in it; at prefent there are fcarcely
1200. This decreafe is owing to feveral caufes. On one e-.
date fome extenfive farms have been wade, and feveral crofta
for a number of years. On other eftates, two farms have
been put into one. On all thefe were many families, who
have gone to manufacturing towns, or otherwife, where they
have daily employment. There are not 40 duTenters in the
parifh ; 3 of them Roman Catholics, 5 Seceders, and the reft
Epifcopals. There are 6 heritors, one of whom only refides
in the parifh at prefent. From January 1775 to January
1793, there have been 536 baptifms and 170 marriages,
which, at an average, is 10 marriages and about 31 bap-
tifms in the year.
Church, Stipend, Poor, %3c* — A sew handfome church was
built in 1780, and the manfe in 1769. The ftipend, includ-
ing communion elements, grafs-money, Sec. is about 40I. ios*
with 48 bolls oat-meal. An augmentation of 48 bolls meal,
and a fmall addition for communion elements was decreed by
the court of teiqds in February 1791, but never yet localled.
The glebe, and a fmall garden, meafure 6 acres. The patron-
age is claimed by the Crown, and Mr. Duff of Hatton, the
principal heritor : When a vacancy happens, both prefent to
the living.— There is a parochial fchool here. The falary ia
81. 6s. 8d. By the feulon-clerkflup, marriages, baptifms, and
fchooUfees, the living will be, communibus annis, upwards of
20L — There are at prefent 16 poor and indigent perfons on
the roll, principally reduced to poverty by old age and dif-
tempers. The fund for their maintenance arifes from the vo-
luntary contributions of the pariihioners on the Sundays, and
Q^qa at
308 Statiftical Account
i
at the time of the celebration of the facrament of the Lord's
Supper. It amounts, at prefent, to about a 5 1. Sterling ;
which, with money for the pall, fines from delinquents, and
the intereft of no 1. Sterling at 4 J per cent, diflributed quar-
terly and occafionally, is adequate to their neceffitics, with
what little fome of them can earn for themfclves. None of
the parishioner* are allowed to beg, as they are all fupported
in their own houfes *.
Rint.— The valued rent of the parifli is 3153 1. 7 s. Scots.
The real rent about 1500 1. Sterling. The rents are paid
partly in money and oat-meal, and a variety of cuftoms and
fervices. On fome eftates the tenants are bound to pay but-
ter, ducks, hens, capons, &c. to dig* dry, carry home, and build
up a certain quantity of peats, and to carry from the neareft
fea-port, coals for the proprietors ufc. They are alfo bound
for
* By the famine m 1782 tod 1783, the inferior ranks weje reduced to the
greateft extremity of want, and many would have perUhed without extraordi.
nary affiftance, which waa cheerfully afforded. Happy for this country, provj*
dence brought about a peace ; fo that the peafe which were laid up for the
navy, were fold off, which was the faving of the North of Scotland. By large
purchafes of thefe and EnglUb barley, and by a noble and feafonable fupply of
thefe articles, gratnitpufly feat from London, by the humane and benevolent
Meflh. Ph— n and E— is, the lives of the parifltioncra were preferred. The
kirk-feflion's funds were reduced by the exertions made, from I Sol. to laol.
Sterling. It is worthy of obfervation, that notwithftanding the fcarcity, and
that three-fourths of the people lived for feveral months almoft wholly on peafe-
meal, to which they had not been accuftomed, yet there never was in the me-
mory |f the oldeft man living, better health enjoyed by the partihioners. The
phyfician's aid was feldom wanted.
Wages— \ day-labourer has 8 d. a-day ; a wright 8 d. ; a tailor 6<L, all ex-
clufive of vidtaals; men fervants, for farming, from 7I. to 81. a-year ; women
fervants3l.; men hired for harveft al., and women 20 s. All ihefe arc nearly
double of what they were 30 years ago.
Of Aucbterlefs. 309
for a certain number of fhort and long carriages, z. e. errands
with horfes and carts ; a certain number of reapers a day in
harveft, and plough yoking* and harrowing on the heritor's
mains. Thefe are all eftimated as part 'of rent. On other e-
fiates few of thefe areexa&ed. On cftates where the proprie-
tors live at a diitance, the cufloms and carriages are convert-
ed. Thefe fervices and cuftoms are great difcou rage men ts and
hard (hips on the induftrious improving tenant, which, it is
to be hoped, will, ere long, become obfolete.
Agriculture, &c»— About 20 years ago, oxen-ploughs were
snoftly in ufe. Now there are only 14 oxen-ploughs in the
parifli. The improving tenants, in general, ufe the light Eng-
lish plough, drawn by 2 horfes, of which fome employ 3 or 4.
Though the expenfe of horfes is great, yet the large quanti-
ties of meal and bear they carry to market, or a fea-port, and
the great quantity of lime they bring home for their grounds,
obliges them to ufe horfes for every purpofe. Double carta
for fome years have been ufed by all the farmers who have
ftrong horfes. Oats, bear and peafe, are the only kinds of
grain fown here, -principally the two firft. Of thefe great
quantities are raifed, and much meal exported every year. Ex-
tenfivc fields are laid out yearly for hay and pafture. The
grafs-feeds are fown in with bear or oats ; what is defigned
for hay is generally after turnip, of which large quantities are
fown, fome in broad call, fome in drills. Tfte tarnips are
ufed for feeding, not only for the butcher and their own fa-
milies, but principally for their young cattle, which the far-
mer finds much more for his advantage ; as being fed on tur-
nip through the winter and fpring, and full grazing in the
fummer, they rife to a confiderable fize, and bring from 5 1.
to 7 1. or upwards, at 3 years of age. Potatoes are planted in
great abundance on every farm and croft. Upon the S. fide
of
jio Staiijlical Account
of the fmall water of Ythan, there is a great deal of rifing
ground, covered with fhort heath, little capable of improve-
ment; yet there are fome fine extenfive farms on that fide,
well improved, except the moor ground. On the other fide
of faid rivulet, a beautiful profped prefects itfelf to every
(I ranger* The farms large and clofe, in general in high cul-
tivation. Little more than 20 years ago, the greateft number
of thefe fine and extenfive farms were in the fame negle&ed
ftate with many others in the country. The leafes were ge-
nerally for 19 years. On one eftate moftly liferents. By
the firft, the farmer tried to improve his ground for 9 or 10
years, and the remainder of his leafe, he fcourged and over-
cropped it, by which he both injured himfelf and the pofief-
fion. By the fecond, or liferent leafes, the judicious farmer
faw he might ruin himfelf, by launching out too far in im-
proving his farm, and might be cut off by death before he
drew in any return for the expenfes he had been at, and leave
his family deftitute. Therefore, to remedy thefe evils, feve-
ral of them applied to the proprietors to have their leafes
lengthened out to a longer period. This feveral of the moft
improving tenants obtained, and got new leafes for their own
lifetime, 19 years after that, and a lifetime to one; of their
fons, upon paying a graffum or fine, or a moderate rife of
rent at the commencement of each of thefe periods* This en-
couraged the fpirited and enterprifing tenant, which has had
a moft happy effed. The exertions they now make are very
great. Englifh (hell lime is now brought from Banff or
M'DufF, at the diftance of 18 or 20 miles in large quanti-
ties. Inftances are not wanting here of farmers carrying
40c, 500, and even from 1000 to 1200 bolls to lay on their
poffeflions in the courfe of one year, which will foon amply
compenfate them for this great expenfe. It has anfwered
another valuable purpofe, viz, fetting fuch an example be-
fore
Of Juchterlefs. 3 r r
fore thofe in the lower walks of life, that has excited in them,
(where properlj encouraged), the like fpirit of improvement,
by bringing lime at the fame diftance to their crofts, or fmaU '
pendicles, even when they have but one fmaU horfe and cart.
Such farmers, fbme of them men of enlarged ideas, are pub-
lic bleflings. Confcioua of the inconvenience and hardships
they labour under, by the aforementioned fervices and cuftoms,
they have let off part of their grounds to fubtenants at a rea-
fonable rent, have built houfes for them, given them leafes,
and exact not one ' day's fervice from them ; only when they
have occafion to.hire them as day-labourers, that they (hall
ferve them in preference to another.
Mifcettaneous Observations.— Pczts and turf have always
been the fuel ufed here, which, in digging, drying and carry-
ing home, employed the farmer and his fervants the greateft
part of the fummer, as the moffea are at the diftance of 6 or 7
miles from many of the farms. Now the more enlightened
farmers ufe no more peats than is neceffary for their kitchens,
and drying their corns for meal, but choofe rather to bring
Englifh coal from Banff or M 4Duff, though the price is ex-
travagantly high, fometimes 22 d. the barrel, of 12 ftone
weight. A few draughts of their carts will bring coal fuffi-
cient to ferve them through the year : and thus they have
time during the fummer for carrying lime for their farms.
If the unequal and oppreffive duty on coals carried coaft-ways
were taken off, it would be the greateft advantage to this pa~
rifh, (where the ordinary fuel is fcarcely to be had, efpecial-
ly in wet fummers), as well as it. would be to the whole of
the north of Scotland. There are about 1500 black cattle in
the parifti ; 200 horfes of various fizes ; and 1600 {heepy
moftly of the fmall Scotch breed ; they have been improving
in foe and wool for fome years, by the introduction of lar-
3 1 2 Stati/iical Account
ger tups. Sheep have decreased here in number fince the ge»
neral pra&ice took place of laying down fo much ground with
clover, and other green crops. — The people are, in general,
very regular in their attendance on public worfhip, and at
pains to have their children educated. They are fober, in*
duftrious, charitable and humane, and live in great harmony
with the few diffenters in the parifli. The principal farmers
have now good hbufes, live in a very genteel ftyle, are fecial
and hofpitable, and their drefs cor refponds with their manner
of living. — Neither lime nor marl are found in the parift.
There are a few ftone quarries, but of a bad quality, and very
inaccefEble, for which reafon there are no ftone fences. Earth-
en fences and ditches can only be obtained. On thefe, fome
have planted thorn hedges. There is great fearcity of wood:
Only 3 plantations of firs, two of them young, and not fit, as
yet, for any purpofe. There is much ground covered with
heath, and fit for no purpofe but planting. No hard wood,
but a few trees about gentlemen's houfes. . There is only l
inn in the parifh, on the pofUroad leading from Aberdeen to
Banff; and as there is no poft-office, letters and newfpapers
are left there by the poft, and returns forwarded the fame
way to the firft office. There are 7 corn-mills -w and laft year
3 threflung mills were ere&ed, 2 of thefe go by horfes, and z
with water. Two or three others are in fbrwardnefs. There
is only 1 fair, principally for fheep. No brewery or diftille-
ry. There are no manufa&ures eftablifhed. Women are
employed by the flocking merchants in Aberdeen in knitting
ftockings, and in fpinning flax for the linen manufaftures.
There are a few Druidical circles, but not fo large as in ma-
ny other places. Superftition ftill fpares them, though ftones
are fo fcarce. Alfo many cairns, &c.
Antiquities. — The mod remarkable piece of antiquity in
5 this
Of Auchterlefs. 313
tills pariih, and mod worthy of attention, is the camp oppo-
fite to the farming village of Glenmailen, from which it is
only divided by a deep ravine ; the fmall river of Ythan run-
sing in the bottom. One fide of the work follows the gentle
windings of the river's lofty bank; two others are ftraight
lines, the profiles of the vallum correft, and all the parts well
defined, and in great prefervation : The fourth fide is oblite-
rated fo far by the plough, that it appears only like a large
ridge of land, raifed to a fuperior height. The interior area
comprehends 90 acres Scotch, or 120 of Engliih meafure.
The fituation of this grand work appears advantageous, judi-
cioufly placed, juft where the Ri-hifl, (a part of the extenfive
moors of Fond-land), by a gentle declivity, is joined to the
plain champain country below, and covered at the diftance of
about 12 miles by another great work on Barra-hill, by a
jfmall ftation oppofite to Pitcaple on the Urie, or Glen-water,
and fur rounded by numerous other fmaller fortified polls. In
its near vicinity are found double lines of intrenchment on
the hill, and farming ground of Tilly1 Murgen, having all the
appearance of military works thrown up in ancient times :
And ftiil nearer, not far from its N. E. angle, on the N. fide
of the Ythan, and foot of the Berry-hill of Auchterlefs,
there is a part of a ditch and rampart very diftinft, the reft
worn out by the lapfe of time, and the conftant operation of
the plough. From the nature of the ground, however, where
it {lands, it could never have been of any confiderable extent,
probably no larger than the above mentioned military work
near Pitcaple *. The figure of the gamp (by fuppofing it
Vol. XII. R r bounded
• The appellations of ri-dikes, and grim-dikes, that hate been given by the
country people, fometimes only declare a pretty high antiquity, becaafe the
former being Gaelic, muft have been given when that was the mother-tongue
vf the country ; and the latter grim or grumm being Teutonic, might have been
' impofed
314 Statifiical Account
bounded on the fide of the river by a right line) is a paral-
lelogram, but not re&angular, two of the oppofite angles be-
ing acute, the other %wq ofetuf<5, and the ratio of its fides nearr
17
impofed after the arrival of the Norwegians, which feme ingenious hiftorians
think was about the 2d or 3d century of our aera, when they wer.e called in
by the old inhabitants to affift them againft foreign enemies. But who were
the authors of all the ftupendous military works, whether roads or places of
defence, fcattered over the country, we are no longer at a lofs to know. An
ingenious and worthy gentleman, a native of the neighbouring parifh of Forgue,
and who has ferved as an officer in the Royal corps of Artillery, fincc the year
1758, was defirpus tQ compare what he had feen during his own time, with
what could be ft ill traced in the country, of Roman field fortification, and other
topographical marks of their wife military inftitutions. His'fituation at Perth,
in the duties of his profeffion, from the year 1785 to the end of 1787, gave
him opportunities of fpending a great deal of his fpare time, in thefe wifhed-
for researches, which having purfued with unremitting affiduity, he was at laft
enabled, contrary to an opinion which then prevailed, to demonftrate that the
Roman armies had paffed the Grampians by land, as well as that they had fur.
rounded the coft-land by their (hipping ; the character, ftyle, and manner of
field fortification, being as evident, and as well fupported in fhe Caftellum or
Barra-hilL, and in the Caflra seftiva at Glenmailen, as any where between
them, and the prsetentura of Agricola extending from Forth to Clyde. The
fortified poft oppofite to Pitcaple, and a paved way of 14 feet wide, pointing
upon it from a ftone fortrefs on the fummit of Bennachee, bear firong marks
of Roman character, and Roman exertion. Nor are fhe fmaller ppfts of rivers
near mill of Eaftertown in Fyvie, the work qn the farm of Ellis near Udny,
and the elegant circular redoubt near the fummit of the Seed-hill of Achabar,
any ways inferior to works of the fame kind on the other fide of the Grampian
mountains. But if it lhould ft ill be thought that thefe obfervations and rea-
fonings on the progrefc of the Roman armies are inconclufiye, the teftimony of
D10 and Herodian, the Itinerary of Ptolemy, and above all, the Britannia Ro-
man a of Richard of Cirencefter, lately found in Denmark, muft necefiarily re-
move all doubts. Nor is it exceeding doubtful that the very Statio ad Ithunam
mentioned in the Itineraries, was near the great camp already defcribed : For,
our neighbouring gentleman, already quoted, has made many inquiries about
antique intrenchments at Fyvie, Methlick, and Ellon, among the clergy and
fcme other well informed people, but has met with no remarkable veftrges of
that
Of Auchterlefs. 315
Yf as 1 to 3. No monumental, or infcriptional ftones, bricks,
pottery, heads of fpears, belts, fpurs, or coins* brafs, copper
or filrer, have been yet difcovered to demonftrate by what na-
il r 2 tion
that kind as yet, lower down the river than the above mentioned fragment at
the foot of the Berry- hill. Neither is it any objection that the ft ream is too
inconfiderable to be called by any proper permanent name within a fiiort mile
of its Iburce, by a foreign nation; but that river, rather brook, is no fooner de-
parted from its two fprings, than it is called Ythan, and even thofe are called
the Wells of Ythan ; and it is well known to all who have perufed the Roman
Itineraries, that names given by indigenous inhabitants, efpecially of rivers, are
retained with no other alteration than giving them a Latin termination : Such as
Hierna, the Erne; Tina, the Tine; Taus the Ta, or Tay ; Efica, the Efk; Dona,
the Don, fee. Ithuna, the Ythan. The ingenious author (Captain A. S.) of
the inveftigations, juft recited, was at firft inclined to believe the Statio ad Ithu-
nam, was the work of the Emperor Severus, yet fome of the beft informed, and
learned antiquaries will have it, that all the pofts N* of the Grampians were
contacted by Lollius Urbicus, the brave and gallant Lieutenant of Antoninus ;
and the late ingenious Major-General Roy, as foon as he perufed the plan of
Glenmailen and environs, with its explanation and references, put it down im-
mediately in his Mappa Britannise Septentrionalis, Caftra Agricolac, Therefore,
it is to be prefumed, it will be publifhed in the next edition of the General's
map of Scotland, and that fome account of it will be given in the Appendix to
his Pofthtfmous Work, now probably printing off by the Society of London An-
tiquaries, to whom one of his manuscripts was bequeathed by latter will, the
ether remaining in the King's library.
The fame ingenious gentleman, to whom the public is indebted for thefe
obfervations, takes notice that fomething more (hould have been introduced
about the Roman roads, as he is of opinion that the investigation of the great
via confulares, and alio the virinalts, is of more importance than a knowledge
of the camps ; but having heard that the late Mr. Lawtie of Fordyce, had
made a difcovery of fome very ancient roads paffing in a N. W. direction through
the parifh of Delkford, he did not add any thing farther on that fubjeel, as Mr.
Lawtie, no doubt, had taken notice of that in his report : Only the gentleman
obferves, if the intelligence concerning Mr. Lawtie is well grounded, it makes
him (till the more inclinable to believe, that the track of the itinerary, croiTed
the Ythan and the Devoran rather at Glenmailen and Auchingoul, than at
points lower down the river, and that it is by no means impoffible that there
may be found fome part of it paffing through this pajiHu He alio takes notice,
that
3 16 Statiftkal AccbUnt
tion this, or the other military works already meatioacd have
been conftraded.
NUM.
that the principal or eonfular roads on the N. fide Forth and Clyde, are iS feet*.
and thofe of leffer note 16, 14, and 1 2 feet wide, and they are often paved with
(tone, fometimes done with gravel and fand, like the modern practice, and fre-
quently raifrd above the level of the adjacent ground 3 feet high, with very-
deep ditches on each fide.
Of Jura and Cdon/ay. 3 iy
NUMBER XXV. ::
PARISH of JURA and COLONSAY-
(County and Stnod or Argyll, Presbttert or Kzntyre.)
By the Rev. Mr. Fxancis Stewaet.
rTlHIS parilh has the ifland of Hay on the S., and that of
-*- Mull on the N. ; it is hounded on the W. by the At-
lantic, and on the E. by the Sea, which wades the coeft of
Cregniih, of north and fouth Knapdale, and part of Kintyre.
Including fea, it is 5$ miles long, and 30 broad. It confifb
of 9 iflands, of which 6 are inhabited. Colonfay and Oron-
fay are Separated by a narrow found, which ebbs dry at low
water, and they form the weftcrn divifion of the parilh. A-
bout a league and a half to the E. lies the ifland of Jura. At
the north end of Jura, are the iflands of Scarba, Lunga, Bal-
nahuaigh, the Garveilcachan, and Eileachan-naomh. As the
ifland of Jura forms by far the moft confiderable part of the
parilh, we fhall give it the firft place in this account.
Name,'
% t 8 Statijlical Account
Name, Situation, Extent, and Surface. — There are various
etymologies given of Jura. Some think that it was fo deno-
minated from the great quantity of jew trees which grew in
the ifland. The name of the yew, in Gaelic, is Juar ; hence,
they fay, Juarey ; and, in a contracted form, Jurey, the ifland
of Yew Trees. Buchanan fays, that the ancient name of the
ifland was Dera, which, in the Gothic language, fignifies a
flag. This account of the name feems the mod probable, as
there is {till a considerable number of deer in the ifland, and,
as the Gael pronounce it Diura, very near the Gothic Dera.
The tutelary faint of the ifland was Fernadal ; from him the
bnrying-ground is denominated Kil-f hearnadail, or the Cell
of Fernadal ; alfo a large oblong ftone on the fhore, 3 miles
S» W. from the Cell, Leac-f hearnadail, or the ftone of Fer-
nadal ; and a farm, 2 miles N. E. of the Cell, Ard-f hearna-
dail, or the hill of Fernadal. The ifland of Jura, with its
appendage of little iflands at the N. end, ftretches along op-
]>ofite the coaft of Cregnifli, of Knapdale, and nearly as far
S. as the N. end of Gigha. Towards the S. end it may be
about 6 leagues from the continent, towards the middle a-
bout 3, and at the N. end not above 1. The length of the
ifland is about 30 miles, the breadth various, but no where,
it is believed, above 7 miles. As jthere has been no actual
furveyf the length and breadth are not exactly afcertained.
The appearance of the ifland is very romantick, and calcu-
lated to raife fublime emotions in the fpectator's foul. There
is a ridge of towering mountains, which run from S. to N. .
along the W. fide, terminating the profpect from the conti-
nent, and very often covered with clouds and darkne£s. Thefe
mountains are 4 in number. That to the S. is called Bein-
achaolais, or the Peak of the Sound, as it ftands over the
Sound of Hay ; the ne*t Bein-an-oer, or the Gold Peak ; the
third a Bhein-iheunta, the Confecrated Peak ; and that to the
N. Corra.
1
9/ Jura and Colon/ay* 319
N. Corra-Bhein, the Steep Peak. Thefe peaks are feen from
the continent of Argyllfliire, and from part of Perthshire,
from Butefhire, Ayrihire, Dumbartonshire, and, it is faid,
from part of Lanarkfhire. They are feen at a great diftance
to the W., and are the firft land which the failors make, com-
ing in their direction from the Atlantic Ocean. There is very
little vegetation on thefe peaks, their fummits and fides are
covered over with fragments of ftone, and exhibit a (tupen- .
dons monument of the refiftlefs. force of time. The W. fide
of the ifland is not fit for cultivation ; it is wild and rugged,
interfered with many torrents, which come ruining down
from the mountains ; and has been deemed fo inhofpitable,
that no perfon choofes to fix his habitation in it. All the in-
habitants live on the £. fide of the ifland. Along the margin
pi the fea, on this fide, the grounds are pretty level ; but at
a little diftance from the fhore, there is a gradual afcent. The
whole of this fide forms no unpleafing fcene. The coaft is,
in feveral places, variegated with hays and harbours, and
points of land ; the arable and pafture grounds fpread on a
declivity before the eye, and terminate at the bafeof thofe
towering mountains, which form a romantick and awful back-
ground,
jfir, Climate f and Difeafes. — The air is pure and falubri-
qus, as it is generally in the fea-coaft, and in hilly countries.
The clouds are, indeed, often intercepted by the high hills,
and defcen'd in torrents ; but we have conftant breezes, fome-
times brifk gales of wind, ^to dry up the rain. The tops of
the mountains are covered with fnow a confiderable part of
winter, but it feldom lies long on the low grounds. The in-
habitants are very healthy, and many of them live to old
age. A few weeks ago, died, a lady at the age of 96. She
retained the ufe of her faculties to the laft. , Till within a
few
320 &talijlical Account
few months of her death, fhe could walk about vith ponfi-
derable vigour, could read the fmalleft print, or thread the
fined needle without the help of glafles. The difeafes are
few in number, owing, perhaps in a good meafure, to the
iimple mode of living of the inhabitants. They are fome-
times feized with inflammatory disorders ; this feems to be
occafioned by the lightnefs of their clothing, particularly of
their bed-clothing, which is not fufficient to keep up the
perfpiration while they are at reft- They are liable to thofe
disorders, which are occafioned by Hring much upon milk
and fifh. Of late, rheumatic complaints have become more
general among the lower clafles. We have had one dropfical
cafe, laft fummer, that proved fatal ; feveral have died with-
in the laft twelvemonth of ftomach complaints. There is no
furgeon in the ifland, and they never fend for one, except in
cafes which are deemed extremely dangerous. A great pro-
portion of children die in infancy, and many of the mothers,
though of a ftrong constitution, recover (lowly in child-bed.
Both thefe circumftances feem to be owing to unfkilful treat-
ment, for there is not a fingle bred midwife in the ifland.
The fmall-pox, in the natural way, carried off many chil-
dren in autumn 1791. The people entertain no prejudice
againft inoculation, but grudge the expenfe of it.
SqiI and Produce.— "The foil along the more is thin and
very ftony ; towards the moor it is clayey, and, in fome
places, there is improveahle mofs. As the arable ground lies
on a declivity in the neighbourhood of high hills, the water
is conftantly oozing down through it, and, in many places,
burfting out in little fprings ; fo that it is what the low coun-
try farmers call fpouty ground. The crops are oats, barley,
potatoes, and flax. There has been no trial made of artificial
graffes, though there are fome fpots proper for them. Com-
mon
Of Jura and Colon/ay. $ii
iion field peafe, likewife, arc not faifed here, though, from
the nature of the foil along the fliore, they rfught prove a be-
neficial crop. Oats are, in general; a very unproductive
crop, the greateft average returns are nat above two and a-
half. Potatoes and barley ate more productive, and, were the
ground properly managed, might prove very valuable crops.
The fyftem of farming here, has made very flow advances to*'
wards improvement, and is; at leaft, half a century behind
that, in many parts of the low country. The farmer, does
nothing to his grounds all the fummer. Although there is plen-
ty of lime- ft one on the oppofite fhore of Knapdalej and in the
adjoining iflandof Hay, and plenty of peat in Jura,' for burn-
ing lime, yet no perfon remembers a fingle trial made of that
manure. The only manure ufed is the fea-weed; which is to
be had in great abundance, and gives one tolerable crop. This"
anfwers the contracted views of the farmer, who keeps the
bed patches of his ground constantly in tillage, and labours
like one who is not certain of his pofleflion beyond* the pre-"
fent year. The farmers of this country are utter ftxangers to
the mode of abridging labour. It is no uncommon thing to'
fee 12 men and 20 horfes at work in a farm, which 3 men
and four horfes would, on an improved plan/ labour to much
better purpofe.
Quadrupeds 9 Birds, &c — The tame animals are cows, hor-
fes, Iheepj and goats. The fmall tenants, in general, over-
ftock their grounds, fo that the black cattle arc rather ftnall,
and inferior to thofe of Hay. The horfes alfo, though hardy,
are a very diminutive breed. The" flieep of Jura" are remarkable
for the fincnefs of their wool, and the delicacy of their fiefli.
Were proper care taken to keep this breed from degenerating,
by mixing with the Galloway fhecp now introduced into the
ifland ; were it allowed to increafe, and cover the greateft pait
Vol. XII. . S f *i
. $24 Statijiical Account
of the ifland, Jura, in the courfe of a few years, might h*V6
very corifiderable returns from its wool, and tranfport annual-
ly the increafe of its flocks tcrricher paftures on the continent,
where the mutton would greatly excel that of the Englifh, or
Low Country (beep. There are feveral flocks of goats in Ju-
*a, but they are much on the decreafe. They are not fo pro*
Stable as iheep ; they carry no fleece, and their flefli is infe-
rior. The inhabitants of this ifknd would find it their inte-
reft to banifli two-thirds of the horfes which they keep, to
tear fewer black cattle, and to extend their dock of (beep and
goats. As there is vcty little meadow ground in the ifland,
and the arable ground makes fuch poor returns in oats, it
ought certainly to be the grazier's objeft to keep fuch a ftock
principally as would (hift for itfelf in winter.
There are one dr two herds of red deer traverfing the moun-
tains. We have plenty of groufe, fome termagan, and black
game ; but no partridge, no hare, and very few rabbits. A-
niong our birds of prey are the eagles, which build their nefts
in the inacceffible precipices on the W. fide of Jura, and prove
very deftru&ive to the kids and lambs. The filh commonly
caught here are cuddies, and fayths. In autumn there are
fome lythe, and fmall cod. There is a very delicate fiih that
may be had through the whole year, called by the country peo-
ple murloch. It is very long in proportion to its thicknefs,
«nd, in fhape, refembles the dog-fiih ; it is covered with a ve-
ry rough flrin, like fhagreen, of which it muft be ftripped.
In an arm of the fea that runs in on the W. fide, and almoft
divides Jura in the middle, there are great quantities of lob-
fter, oyfters, and craw- fiih. The marine plant, of which kelp
is made, grows in great abundance on the fhores. Before the
general ufe of Barilla, the kelp of Jura was a confiderable ad*
dition to its rental.
Earl ours.
Qf7ura at*d Colon/ay. 323
Harbours— There are two very fine harbours on the E.
fide of the iflapd ; that to the S. is called the Small Ides ; and
that to the N. the Lowland-Man's Bay. They are within a
few miles of each other. The harbour at the Small Ifles is a
capacious bay, about 4 miles in extent. Into the mouth of
this bay are thrown longitudinally 3 or. 4 iflands, which leave
but narrow openings into the harbour, and form a ftrong bar-
rier againft the violence of the fea. It ia from thefe iflands
that the harbour takes its name. Lowland-Man's Bay opens
towards the S., is contracted at the entrance by % points of
land, which run out, like two arms, but is pretty capacious
within. The harbour of Small Ifles is rather (hallow for vef-
fels of great draught of water, but this is deep enough for any
veflcl. Notwithftanding the excellence of thefe harbours,
and that Jura is only a few hours failing from the lochs where
herrings are fifhed, there is no veflel above 5 or 6 tons bur-
then belonging to the ifland, and of thefe there is none em-
ployed in the fUheries. The cpurfe of the tides along the
coaft of Jura, particularly in the found of Scarba, and in that
of Ilay, is very rapid. The navigation of the found of Hay is
dangerous, not only from the rapidity of the tides, running
6 miles an hour, and from the fudden fqualls which come
from the neighbouring hills, but alfo from foul ground. Many
vefiels have been loft in this dangerous found. As a confider-r
able number of thofe trading to the north feas have occafion
to pafs through it, one fhould think that it ought to be care-
fully examined and furveyed, to fee what improvements are-
practicable.
Population. — According to Dr. Webfter's report, the num-
ber of fouls in 1755 was 1097. To afcertain the prefcnt po-
pulation of this parifli, a furvey was made in June 1792.
S f 2 Island,
3 24 StatiJIical Account
Island or Jura.
1 Inpafturage, i* J • "
Families [n the ifland, 204 Females, - - 471
Souls, - - 925 Widowers, 6
Males, - - - 458 Widows, 4a
As the prefent incumbent has not been long in the pariflj,
of jura, and as he has not been able to procure former exa-
mination rolls, it is out of his power to give a fl ate merit of
the population prior to the date of his own furvey. Emigra-
tions to America have proved, once and again, a drain to this
ifland ; but, in the prefent mode of management, it may be
faid to be ftill ovcrftocked with inhabitants. Near half the
farms in the ifland are in pafture, and require very few hands
to manage them. Of courfe, the great body of the people
live in the farms, which are in tillage. In lome of thefe there
are between 50 and 60 fouls. Such a fwarm of inhabitants,
where manufactures, and many other branches of indufiry are
unknown, are a very great load upon the proprietors, and in
a great meafure ufelefs to the Hate. The flighted furvey of
the fituation of the people fhows how much improvements in
farming, and the introduction of indufiry, are wanted. The
fpirit of emigration is ftill powerful in the ifland, and requires
confiderable alterations to extinguifh it *.
Mttals,
* As there was no regiftcr of births and marriages kept in the parifli till
within thefe few years, the author found it impracticable to trace back the
natter fo far as might be wiihcd ; but has gone as far J>ack as the commence-
ment of the jEirifli records.
Ma*juaoes. Births.
*• a • ••
No.
18
Years.
No.
"17S7
6
1788
8
Of Jura and Colonfdy. 32$
Metals, Minerals, &c. — There is iron-ore, and manganefe
in Jura : about the middle of the ifland, there is a confider*
able body of date ; fmall quantities have been quarried, and
the colour and quality feem to be very good. There is to be
found alfo, on the W. fide of the ifland, in great abundance,
a very fine kind of fahd ufed in the manufa&ure of glafs.
Antiquities and Citriqfities. — There are feveral barrows
through the ifland ; there are alfo pillars, and caftellums, or
duns. There is one relick of antiquity of a Angular kind. In
more places than one,' we can trace along the declivity of a
hill, the ruins of a wall, that was about 44* feet high, termi-*
nating, perhaps, at a lake, or fome very abrupt fteep place*
At the lower extremity of the wall, there is a deep pit, a*
bove 12 feet diameter at the mouth, and very much contract
ed at the bottom. This, the tradition of the country fays,
was a contrivance ufed in former times for taking the wild
boar* The huntfmen drove him along the wall, till he took
refuge at lad in the pit, and there was made captive. At the
N. end of the harbour called the Small Ifles, there are the re-
. main*
Mark, i a ois.
Births
Years.
No.
No.
1789
7
24
1790
7
«6
1791
7
18
175*
IX
«S
4* 134
The tax upon marriages and baptifms is matter of complaint, efpeeiall j in
facb a pariih as this, where there is very little circulation of money. It is fuch
a trifle, that it feem* beneath the dignity of taxation, and goes contrary to the
famous jus trium liberorum^ to ftrike at the very roots of national ftrength and
glory. Inftead of exacting fuch an odious tax, a fmall encouragement for keep*
ing pariih records with greater attention, might turn out of much greater acL
vantage to the date.
326 St uttftical Account
mains of a confidcrable encampment. On the fide toward the
Ihore, there is a triple line of defence, with deep ditches :
from the centre of the work, the earth was Scooped out, to a
confidcrable depth, in the form of 3 cllipfes placed longitudi-
nally, and thrown up in large mounds on the right and left.
On the fide toward the hills, there were regular baftions form-*
ed all along ; and at the £. end, on a line with the centre, is
to be feen a .pretty large mount, which feems to have heen a
place of arms. The famous Gulf of Breacan lies between
Jura and Scarba. The found between thefe two UUnds is
narrow, and forming a communication between the Atlantic
and the internal fea on the coaft of Argyll $ the rapidity and
violence of the tides are tremendous. Tn* gu^ 1S mo& aw-
ful with. the flowing tide; in ftormy weather, with that tide,
it exhibits an afped, in which a great deal of the terrible is
blended. Vaft openings are formed, in which one would
think the bottom might be feen ; immenfe bodies of water
tumble headlong, as over a precipice, then rebounding from
the abyfs, meet the torrents from above ; they dafli together
with inconceivable impetuofity, rife foaming to a prodigious
height above the furface: the noife of their conflid is heard
through the furrounding iflands. This gulf is an objed of
as great terror to the modem, as Sylla and Charybdis were
to the ancient mariners. It is induftrtoufly avoided by all
who navigate thefe found*: there are inftances, however, of
veffels being drawn into it., Large (tout veflels make their
way through it in its greateft rage, but to fmall craft it proves
immediate deftru&ion.
It will be proper, in this place, to give a ihort account of
the iflands at the N. end of Jura. Scarba is very rugged,
and mountainous ; it is about 3 miles long, and nearly as ma-
ny broad. Lunga is not fo mountainous, and is about a mile*
long, and half a mile broad. Balnahuaigh is about a mile in
circum*
Of Jura and Colonfd}. 317
Circumference, and is all a (late quarry. This qUarry has
been worked for many years back, and found to yield very
good flate. There are generally about 30 men employed m
it, who work by the piece, or at fo much the thoufand of
flate.
Island of Soarba.
Island of Lunga*
Population.
Farms, * *
- 2
Farm, - * • 1
Families, -
- 14
Families, - 6
Souls, - *
- 5°
Souls, * 29
Males, -
- *7
Males, 13
Females, -
- *3
Females, - - 16
Widowers,
0
Widowers, • a
Widows,
- 3
Widows, - 9
Island ot Balkahuaigh.
Population*
Families, - «
» 28
Females, - 68
Souls, -
- 132
Widowers, 0
Males, - -
64
Widows, - . • 4
Having finilhed our account of Jura, and its appendage of
iflands at the N. end, forming the eaflern divifion of this im-
menfe parifli, we proceed to give a fhort account of the weft-
ern divifion. The iflands of Colonfay and Oronfay form this*
divifion, and from their contiguity, the found between them
being dry at low water, may be coufidered as one ifland.
Name* — Colonfay and Oronfay, derive their names from
two faints, Colon and Oron. Oron had his cell in Colonfay,
•a the farm in which the preient proprietor's houfe Hands,
4 but
328 Statijlicai Account
but though his cell was in Golctafay, he feems to have- beeri
revered in Oronfay, which is fo called after his name. Co-
lon, who feems to have had no cell in either of the iflaods,
was lucky enough to have his memory preferred, by giving
his name to Colonfay.
Situation, Extent* and Surface. — This weftern divifion of
the pariih, being confidered as one ifland, has Mull on the
N., is wafted by the Atlantic on the W., and ftretches acrofs
the found of Hay on the E; ; from which circumftance, it is
called defcriptively,EileanTarfuing, or the Crofs-lying Ifland.
Ireland is the next land to it on the S. It is a fiat iflaad,
when compared .with the towering peaks of Mull and Jura
in its neighbourhood. The furface, however, is* very un-
equal ; {here is a confiderable number of rugged hills, cover-
ed over with heath* This divifion of the pariih has been fur-
veyed, and found to meafure about 8090 acres, of which a-
bout 3000 are faid to be arable.
j£r, Climate, Soil; $£c. — The temperature of the air, and
, the climate, are nearly the fame as in Jura. The inhabitants
are rojiuft and healthy ; they live in the fame fimple manner
with their brethren in Jura, and have neither lawyer nor fur-
geon in the ifland. The foil is generally light 5 along the
ihores it is fandy, but more fertile, and not fo ftony as that
of Jura. Barley and potatoes are more productive crops here
than bats. Artificial graffes have been tried, and are found
to anfwer. The fea-weed,' of which there is great abundance
for kelp and manure, has been tried with fuccefs upon mea-
dow ground. When the furface is quite covered with it in
Winter, a diflblution and incorporation with the foil takes
place, the natural clover and finer graffes are encouraged to
(hoot up, and a moll luxuriant crop follows. The pafture
v on
Of Jura and Cohnfoy. 3*9
*n the low grounds, efpecially in the S. ead of the ifland, it
uncommonly rich,
Quadrupeds, Birds, ^r.— The fyftem of converting arable
into pafture, is making rapid progrefs in Colonfay. The beft
part of the ifland is under black cattle; thefc are in great re-
<jueft among the grazier*, and thought to be a very fine breed*
The breed of hoxfes is final!, and handy, like that in Jura,
"The art of abridging labour, and keeping* a few good cattle*
has Hot a? ytt eftabliihed kfeif in this diftant corner. Thofe
innocent animals, the -fheep, *re totally baniftied, although
these are no qnickfet hedges » and nature fcems to have def«
fined the heath-covered hills for their ufe. There are great
numbers of rabbits in the ifland j but no hare, no partridge,
«dd very few grotife.
Population*
FarmB * {"tillage, - 7 ) Total .
i in pafture, - 8 j '
*5
Families, - - 134 Females, •
- 366
Souls, - - - 718 Widowers,
- 6
Males, - - • - 35a Widows, «
- 12
There are above 40 rGaulsy lit an average* in each of the
farms ; but fome of thefe being vvery fmall, not having above
5 or 4 families, the number of ibub in the beft inhabited
•farms is very great. The average nimbtr of font to a farm
in Jura is 38. A few emigrated from Colonfay to America,
fummer 179a ; but in fummer 1791, a confiderable proportion
of the inhabitants crofled the Atlantic. Thofe who remain,
give out that they are waiting only good accounts from theit
gelations* and a proper opportunity of being tranfported to
Vol.XII% Tt the
330 Statiftical Account
the other hemifphere. Pity it is that fuch numbers flbould
bid farewell to their native country, when their is fo great
a demand for ufeful citizens ; and their fituation might be
rendered more comfortable at home *,
Antiquities, iic. — The remains of fevcral Romifh chapels
are to be feen in Colonfay. There was* a monafteiy of Cis-
tercians in this ifland. Their abbey flood in Colonfay, and
its priory in Oronfay. The remains of the abbey were, with
Gothic barbarity, torn afunder not many years ago, and the
Hones put into a new building. The walls of the priory are
ft ill ftanding, and next to Icolmkill, is one of the fineft reli-
gious monuments of antiquity in the* Hebrides. No metals
of any kind, fo far as I eould learn, have been difcovered in
Colonfay. There are great quantities of fea-coral on ths
fliores, and it proves a very good manure.
Parish of Jura anq Colonsat.
This parifh belongs to 6 heritors, of whom only a refidev
The Duke of Argyll is patron.
Rental
Valued rent, - L. a86 18 5 1
Real rent, - - 1656 % * j Sterling.
Churchy Manfiy Poor, Schools, &c.— ^The church and maafic
are in Jura. The church has flood for is years at leaft, has
* The legiftevs of marriajes and baptums haw been kept fo negligently in
Cqlonfay, that, however defective this account may be without extracts from
fhem, they cannot be admitted. The affiftant preacher refides in Colonfay, but
there is no proper hoofe built for his accommodation ; and there u 00 chvrct}
ftibeltcr tip peonle from the iacka^ncj of the weather* •
Of Jura and Colon/ay. 33 1
ho place for a bell, and was never feated. The manfe was
built about 18 years ago ; till then there was no manfe in the
parifh. New office-houfe* were built, and the manfe was re-
paired about 4 years ago, but fo infufficiently, that it needs
new repairs. The ftipend is 2000 merks, out of which the
.minifter pays, in terms of the decreet of augmentation, 800
merks to his affiflant in Colonfay* The manfe and glebe
maybe worth about iol. The allowance for communion
elements is al. ios. This fum is exceedingly fmall, and not
at all adequate to the purpofe. It is a peculiar hardfhip to
.the minifter of Jura to be tied down to pay fuch a large pro-
portion out of his benefice to an afliftant-preacher, while he
muft, at the fame time, incur the expenfe and danger of croff-
ing broad perilous ferries to marry and baptize in the other
iflands. It is believed that there can be very few inftances
produced in Scotland, where the minifter is not allowed to
ftipulate with his affiflant, but obliged to take his chance of
payments himfelf, and regularly pay his affiflant a fum equal
to a-5ths of his ftipend— There are no funds for the poor
except the weekly colle&ions, and the cafualties from fines
and marriage-money. Thefe different items may amount to
iol. a-yean The poor in this parifh are not much in the
habits of going about and begging ; they are generally affifl-
ed by their relations, and very few of them have their fole
dependence on the parifh box. — There are 3 fchools ; a pajriih
fchool, and 2 charity fchools. The parifh fchool is in Jura $
the falary is 7 1. One of the charity fchools is in Colonfay,
and the other in Jura. The falary of each of thefe is 15I.
Thefe fchools are of prodigious fervice towards enlightening
the underflanding, and improving the heart of a generation,
that otheqpife would be negle&ed. So many inftances can
be produced from the hiftoty of mankind, and from the noble
exertions of the Society for Propagating Chriftian Know-
1 T t % ledge^
3 3 2 Statiftkal Account
ledge, to prove that induftry, probity, and every virtue,
grow and flourffh, not in a ftate of favage ignorance, bat of
civilization, of light, and of religion, that every encourage-
xnent ought to be given to this excellent inftitution. It can
be fliown in the cleareft manner, that the landlords in the
Highlands and iflands, ought not only to be pun&ual in fulfil-
ling the eafy requifitions of the Society ; but that it is their
intereft, fhould the charity fchools be withdrawn, to educate
the youth at their own expenfe V
Mifcellaneous Ohforvations. — The language universally fpo-
ken in the parifh is Gaelic. Very few of the old people un-
derftand Englifli. But from the laudable endeavours of the
fchoolmafters to- teach their fcholars the vocabulary, and ufe
of that language, and from a general opinion gaining ground,
that it will be of great fervice in life; it is hoped that the rid-
ing generation will make confiderable progrefs in acquiring
the Englifli language. The inhabitants do not feel that
ftrong defire of bettering their circumftancts, that would fti-
mulate them to exertion and enterprize. Inftead of trying
*he efFefts of induftry at home, they fofter the notion of get-
ting at once into a ftate of eafe and opulence, with their rela-
tion^ beyond the Atlantic.
Ad<omntages and Dif advantages. — Among the difadvastages
of this pariih, are its remote fkuatioo, the breadth and diffi-
culty
• Price of labour*— A male fervant employed in the bufinefs of farming, gets
Tor the half year al. ; a female fervant employed in the fame bufinefs, gets for
the naif year 1 1.; a day labourer is paid 6"d. and his victuals; a tailor 6d. $ a
fhotmikcf *<J. j *a "boat-carpenter is. a day and victuals. The price of labour,
•hough considerably higher than it was fome years ago> is frill apparently low ;
but the labour is in proportion. Induftry and the arts, have made fuch How
progrefe* that the «xpenfe of labour is full higher than in the low coun*-
OfJtraandCnhmfay. 3J3
eulty of its ferries to the main Ibore. Had die iftkabiuafc
eafier accefs to fee the induftry, and mode of living m tie i*.
terior parts of the country, they would probably follow die
example of their more enlightened neighbours* trader this
difadvantage, the landed gentlemen ought to beftow double di-
ligence in opening the minds of die people \ turning their at.
tendon to the common branches of education *, introducing *r
mong them a fpirit of induftry and improvements. Thte
ifland of Jura labours under a peculiar difadvantage from the
great number of rapid rivers with which it is interfe&ed.
Thefe come tumbling down from the mountains 5 and as they
are not bridged, render the roads often impaffitbie. Thefe
are no lefs than 6 of them in the fpace of 4 miles. The fuel
ufed in this pariSh is peat, which, from the frequent rains in
this watery climate, becomes very precarious. Laft fummer
not above half the fuel was got home, and even that in very
bad condition. But it is hoped that the legiflature will adopt
proper meafures to take the duty off an article fo univerfally
and absolutely neceflary as coal.
The advantages of this parifh are its nearnefa to the lochs,
where herring are caught ; the great quantities of fea-weed
every where on the fliores, both for the purpofes of kelp and
of manure. The fea-coral of Colonfay is a valuable article.
The date of Balnahuaigh brings considerable returns to the
proprietor. The fand for glafs manufa&ure, and the flate in
Jura, furely deferve attention. What in this ifland might be
turned to great advantage, is its excellent wool. Were a few
(pinning machines introduced, and blanketing, and ftockings
manufactured, the hands that could be fpared from agricul-
ture and pafture would be ufefully employed, and, inftead of
being a dead weight on the proprietors, furnifh an example
of ufeful induftry to their neighbours. The white herring-
fifhery is an objeft which might be profecuted with advantage
from
334 Statiftical Accmnl
£ram every corner of the parilh. The harbours of Jura, in-
deed,, give it great advantage for large veflels, but through
all the iflands there are creeks for (mall filhing boats. Per-
haps the beft mode of encouraging the young men to embark
.in this undertaking, would be for the gentlemen tp join with
them in fitting out a few boats of moderate fize for that pur-
pofe. Should thefe boats be • fuccefsful, they would be the
means of .circulating money, an article which, from the ab-
fence of trade and manufactures, is very fcarce among the
lower clafles. The little fums introduced in this way, would
roufe a fpirit of adventure, and give new fprings to every
kind of (nduftry. From fuch fmall beginnings the extenfivc
fifhery carried on by our buflcs took its rife.
NUM.
OfGirvan. 335
NUMBER XXVI.
PARISH of GIRVAN.
(County of Ayr, Synob of Glasgow and Atr, Pres-
bytery of Ayr.)
By the Rev. Mr. James Thomson.
Name, Geography and Natural Hiftory.
FHpIJE origin of the name is unknown. In a decreet of Io-
+ cality, dated 1666, it is written Griffan, and was pro-
t>ably, at that timet fo pronounced. The change of Griffaa
into Girvan, is fomewhat fimilar to that of Striveling into
Stirling. The greateft length of the parifh from S. W. to
JJ. E. is about 9 Englilh miles ; and it varies in breadth from
9 to 6 miles. About two-thirds of the foutbermoft part of
the parifh is hilly. The hilL never rife to a height, which,
£n Scotland, is confidered as mountainous. They are, fox the
jnoft part9 green j and when they are heather, the heath U
ftoft, and generally mixed with grafs. Even in what may
be
336 Staiifiical Account
be called the lowlands of the parifh, fituated on the fea-coail,
and the banks of the Girvan, though there be a confiderable
proportion of flat ground, yet the furface prefents, in general,
n hilly appearance. A great variety is to be fouod in the
foil ; but that which k mod prevalent, confifts of a dry light
mould, on a fandy, or gravelly bottom. In the low part of
the pariih, the air is remarkably dry and mild ; and in the
light lands, vegetation begins % or 3 weeks earlier than in the
country in general. In the high grounds, the air being much
colder, and more moift, vegetation of every kind is much more
backward. It is generally thought there- is abuodauceof coal iq
the low part of the pariih ; but no attempts to difcover it have
been yet made. The inhabitants are plentifully fupplied from
the coal* works in the parifii of Dailly. There is a great quan-
tity of lime-ftoae is the high part of the. parfth ; but owing
to its diftance from coal, the want of roads, or the unfitnefc
of the neighbouring grounds for agriculture, it has hitherto
Been but little ufed. The lowlands are well fhpptied from flu
cxtenfivc lime-work in the neighbourhood. Little or no free*
{lone has, as yet, been difcovered in the parUh. Pudding*
flone, and a kind of rotten rock, abound altaoft every 'Where.
In fome placed the grey and blue whin-ftone is found. la
'one fpot a fmall quantity of gypfum, or plafter-ftone ; and* in
another, a confiderable bed of rhell-marl have been difcovered.
The houfes are all built of whin-ftone, gathered partly from
the land, but chiefly from the fea-beach.
The fea-coaft extends upwards of 8 miles along the W. fide
of this parifli. Above a third part of the fhore is bold and
rocky ; andf when flat, the beach is very generally covered
•with large whin-ftones. In fome parts a confiderable quanti-
ty of fea-weed is otcafionally left by the tide ; and is ufed in
manuring the neighbouring lands. A little kelp is made
' tmcfc
O/Girvafa 337
tact 10 3 years. A quantity of Salmon is annually caught at
the mouth of the Girvan *.
Population— According to Dr. Webfter's report, the num-
ber of fouls in 1755 was 1I93* Of tllc ancient ftate of popu-
lation in the parifh9 no certain information can be obtained.
No regular regifter of deaths and marriages was kept prior to
Auguft 1783, when the tax on regifters was impofed. For
about 5 years after that period, this regifter was accurately
kept f. A regifter of births has been preferved fince the lat-
ter end of the year 1733* From an attention to this, fo far
as it goes, fome probable conjefiure concerning tie ftate of
population at different periods may be formed : and a compa-
rative view of the former and prefent fituation of the parifh
in this refpeft may be taken. For this purpofe^ there is an-
nexed a table of birth* for 10 years fucceeding December
1733 > *n4 aarther for 10 years prior to January 1791 : to
which is added a table of deaths and marriages for; 5 years fuc-
ceeding December 1783.
Vol. XII. 0u Tears.
* They are moft in feafon in the month of June. When fold* on the fpot,
they bring from a d. td 3 d. the lb. EnglUh. Bat the greater part is carried by
Jand to Kilmarnock or Glafgow. It i* believed that abundance of cod, ling,
haddock, 6tc. is alfo to be found of? this coaft ; but the inhabitant* of this pa-
rifh have never much availed themfelves of their Advantage in this refpelt.
f As foon as it Was generally known that the a& impofing a tax on regifters,
did not oblige any perfon to keep a regifter ; and that the only penalty for ne-
glecting to pay the tax, was the non-entry of the name in the regifter * the con»
fequence in this parifh has been, that the regifter of deaths has, for fome time,
been totally given up, and thole ef births and masriagei are not fo accurate ts
tteyfhouidbe.
to*
Statical jAecount
S*AM. t
<
feETBl. !
{Males.
Fern.
Tottl
1734 «
16
77 1
1735
9
18
3
1736
16
11
«737
14
13 -
36
»7
16
33
a 739
»4
«0
33
1740
16
»7
33
J741
»9
>3
3»
*74»
9
«3
as
*743
»3
*4
37
Totals,
x58
150
30*
Average
15.8
*5-
30.8J
Tam«.
BtKIS*. ,
Main.
Fcm.
Toul,
1781
26
28
54
1781
»4
'*3
47
*783
16
*3
39'
1784
»4
28
5*
1785
a6
36
62,
1786
31
20
5i
1787
ji
35
66
1788
»9
36
55;
1789
»5
35
60 ,
*79°
33
*7
60
Totak,
165 |i8i
546
Average,
36.5
26.1
!<**•
7Jmx><
^784
»785
1786
T787
* 1788
Totals,
Average,
DftATHS. f;
Males.
Fern.
rrutai.1
g
17
26 1
18
15
33
11
18
29
12
IO
32
30
30
60
80
90
170
16
z8
34
YXAMU [MaUIAO**.]
17*4
1785
1786
1787
1788
Totals,
Average.
XX
*3
*3
54
10ft
Fnm
••A gmt*M^berof children died this year *f the fmall-ftox. All of them
Aid thedifeaiein the natural mzy. There is ftil], in this perira, -a conitderabftB
•** judice *gainft inoculation.
f From the foregoing tables, it «pp«ars, that the sanaal average «f births far
4R0 yeata, pftfcediitg Jaoueiy 1744, was ^.8. TWa, if muKiptied by a*,
-fhres 800, as thr average number of inhabitants daring t that period. If -multi-
•plied by at, the number mft be ftated at 96% ; and, if by 49, at 803. From
4he regifter 4>f births, it is found, that the annual average for 5 years, preceding
1*756, was 4©. This, When multiplied by 26, gives only 1040, as the number
about the period of Dr. Webfter's reports : but, when multiplied by *8, the
number at that period is brought to 1 1 20. The annual average of births, for
5 years prior to 1791, was 58 a~5ths. It is neceffary this mould be mutiplied
by 20, before the population can, in this way. be brought neaily to correfponi
with what it was is 170U
QfGirvwt.
a#
From an accurate lift taken in the year 1791 , U ajqwars,
that the total number of fouls was then 17 jj :—Qf which
there .were,
Males, -
* $49 Unmarried above 2Q» 3x9
Females, - 876
Under ^q years of age, 70c
Above aoyearsof age, 1024
Married aad widows, 71a
JJomarrWd, ^ « 1^3
la the town of Girvan, xqi i
la the country, - 7*^
Born out of Scotland*
ebieflj in, Irelsndt (Jj
According to their different occupations, the inhahfamf
Hay bgdiftribyted a* follow* :
Handicra/rfmen, ioohi-
pay labouxew, - »
49
ding 33 apprentices, 203
Surgeons %nd sipotfi^w
Servants, - - 153
ries, « - .
3
Seamen, * %%
Student* a* the Vulvar-
Shopkeepers, * * 9
fitj» . , „
*
fccenfed ij*n and tavern
Minifter of th* Rfta*
keepers, * - 8
hUQuiieor^ . • *
*
Farmers, - - * 78
Fseache? tf di«<fc *
I
From the stove ftatem*ata concerning the population of th*
pnri(h of Girvan, it appears, that for upwards of half a ccq^
$ury it has been gradually increafiug s that it is now double
of what it probably was 50 or 60 years ago. Though it b»
probable that the number of inhabitants in the country port
of the psriib, efpeciajly in the Rowlands, may be foniewhat
greater then it formerly was ; yet, without ctob*, by far thp
greateft pari of the in created population is owing to the f*»
tenfion of the town of Qirvan. 49 or 50 years ago, this tam
W Yery ra»n6dtTab& According to th$ btft W*nn?sa it
U u a confiftefl
'3 4<> Statijiical Account
confifted of about 24 houfes only ; and probably contained not
many more than xoo fouls.- It now contains upwards of iooo*
For this great increafe various caufes may be aifigned, A-
bout 30 years ago, a confiderable herring fifliing took place
at the mouth of the river very near the town* This fifliing
continued for 2 or 3 years. By the concourfo of people it
drew together, and by the wealth it produced, a fudden and
cppfiderable extenfion of the town was occafioned. The
throwing of a number of fmali farms together, which, at one
period, was frequently pra&ifed in this country, with the al-
moft total exclufion of cottagers from the farms, obliged a
number of families to take up their refidence in the towns
and villages. The pra&ice of fmuggling, too, which, for a
number of years, was carried on to a confiderable extent on
this coafi, contributed, in no fmali degree, to the increafe of
the town of Girvan.
ProdufHonff \3c. — The number of trees is very fmall.
There is fcarcelyany natural wood better than brufh-wood,
A few. trees have been planted in the low part of the parifli,
and in flieltered fituations have grown tolerably well* It is
believed, that on many parts of the high grounds, trees might
be reared with fuccefs and advantage. All the low part of
the parifli is capable of bearing grain; and, with the exception
of a few enclofures near the fhore, has been chiefly employ-
ed for that purpofe. Confiderable advances have been made,
within thefe 30 years, in the improvement of agriculture. .
The low lands have been almoft wholly enclofed. By the
proper ufe of lime, marl, and tea-weed, together with a more
regular rotation of crops, the produce, both in quantity and
•qUalky, has been, to a great degree encreafed. Oats, barley,
bear, peafe, beans, and potatoes, are the only kinds of crops
commonly raifed. A fmali quantity of wheat and rye is oc-
cafionally
O/Girvan. 341
eafionafly fown ; but the former is thought an uncertain crop,
and the latter is found profitable only when the fell is ex-
tremely light and fandy. On one farm, fevexal acres of tur-
nips are annually raifed with good fuccefs. The kind of
plough mod commonly ufed, is one with an Engliflt mould*
board, and a Scotch fock. Even in the hilly part of the pa*
«fh, they have begun to cultivate fuch fppts of land as are
capable of it. For the moft part, lime is ufed as their ma*
nure. In fome places the furface is pated and burnt, and die
ground manured with the allies. In general, however, the
-disadvantages of the climate, together with the want of fhel-
ter and enclofures, render the crops, in this part of the parifb^
both fcanty and precarious; The high grounds are, therefore^
chiefly employed in the pafture of cattle and fheep. The
greater part of them is indeed capable of being ufed in no
other way* There are about 1700 head of cattle in die pa-
rift. Though, occafionally, there may be fingle inftances of
their rifing to a great fize *, yet the catde, in general, are ra-
ther fmalL In feme parts of the parifli they are completely
fatted ; but the bulk of them are fold for the purpofe of be-
ing driven to England. In the low' pafture grounds, the
grafs is remarkably rich. A fingle acre is fometimes more
than fufficient to fatten an ox or cow of moderate fize. There
are about 114 fcores of flieep. Except a very few of the
mixed breed between Scotch and Englifli, they are all of the
fmall black-faced kind common in this country. Attention is
paid by almoft all the farmers to the improvement of the kind
they already poffefs ; but no attempts have been yet made to
introduce a different breed.
The property of this parifli is very unequally divided a-
mong
* An ex bred by Mr. Kennedy of Dtmnre, on his farm in tjrif parifh, wis
killed when 6 yean old ; the beef and tallow of which, together* weighed ft
ftone t pound, reckoning §4 pound Englifli to the tone.
24* Stati/Hccd Ateount
jnoag to different heritors. Ote only of tbem rcfidts. Bfr,
Hamilton of Bargeftj, id proprietor of the town of Gtrvajj,
and of by far the gfeateft part of the eoontiy pariih. There
ia a fpot of ground aoeorjg the hills, fapppfad to be above 3*
acre* in extent, which ma j b* confidercd ?£ a Mod of com*
mom It he* ne**r, in' tbo memory, of man, been claimed or
poficfled by any individual; bo* is pafturcd ia common bj the
tenants of thofe proprietors, who have land in ks immediate
neighbourhood. In oooiequenoe of the improvement* in.agri*
culture, the advance in (be price of caftle aqd (heap, and the
increafe of the town of Girvan, the tent q{ land ia this pa-
lift has, within thefc 40 years, been vary confiderably ad*
wanted. At prefent (*?9i) the rente of the whole tn^y bo
ftated at about 320*1., and, when fome old leafes are out, they
will atoount to a good deal more. Its valued rant is 4(21 i.
41. laid Scott. With the exception of a few, whofe leafes are
of an old data, the tenants pay .their whole rent in mojoey.
In fbme inftancea, they aro bound to lead coals to thajr lane*
lords, oa to pay a certain fum for this purpofe.
. du$ifvitks.-->Tbfe aae, in this jartth, 5 of tbofe fmall
round enclofures on the tops of rifrng grounds, which are
commonly called camps. Two of them are very near the
fea-fide, and none of thorn more than a miles from the coaft.
One of thefc is remarkable for having a ditches, the 1 pa-
rallel to the other, and each furrouading the hill on the top
of whiah it is fituated *•
EtCclejiqfticat
• A number of cairns were formerly to be* tea fa theputih; fever*! of them
*re noto fcarcety 4iftiaga»mtjble, the (tenet being alnttft wholly removed. In
one among the hills, which, about 7 years ago, was laid open, there was found
a ▼eflel fomewhat like an urn, open at top, made of earthen ware, unglased,
and redely ornamented* It will hold about two Xngliih pints, and, when found,
contained a (mail quantity of duft or aihes. It was encjafe4 in a |c|nd of coffin,
confining of V*oad' thin ttoaes laid looielj together.
/
Of Girwau+ 3^
jBcettfiq/licat Stati, 4/ijfraW, School*, JW.— The iru
habitants of this partfh belong aknoft Wholly to the Eft*,
bliJhed Church. There ate not more than 10 Seoeders, and
only a Roman Catholics. The King i* patron. By the left
decreet, given in the year %6$6", the minifter's iftipead is fix-
ed at 57 bolls 12 J pecks of meal, paid et<the rate of eight
ftone and an half the boll ; 31 bolls 8 pecks of bear ; 1 boll
4 pecks of oats 9 with 369I. 4*. 8d. Seats, of money* He
has alfo a manfe and glebe, which *aay be valued at i*«l. or
* 5 1.— There is one efliablUbed fchoolmafter, who retides ia
the town of Girvaa. He has, at an average, about 50 fcho*.
tars. Of thefe, 30 are taught GogUfh, at the rate of as. a-
quarter; 16 are taught writing and arithmetic, at the rate of
as. 4d. 1 and 4 are -taught Latin at 3 s. Thefe wages, and
icel. Scots of ialary, wkh his emoluments as <effioa-clerk
aad precentor, reader his place worth about 30 1. a-year. A
number of private feboels ace alfo ocoafioaatty kept, both sa
the town and the diftant parts of the pariih.— SChe poor's
tf unds of this pariih ate wholly under the manageaaent of the
fcirk4effioB. They arife from the intereft of 165 {. of ftock,
•from voluntary contributions, and from penalties received
4rem thofe who fubjeft themfelves to the difcipline of the
church. From the accounts for 5 years preceding January
j 391, it appears, that the (urn of 4* 1. Sterling has, at an
average, been annually received $ that during the lame pcv
-xiod, the fum of 38 1. has, at an average, been annually dif-
tributed; and that in thefe years, the average number of
thole
In the town of Gtrvaa, there 11 a whin-tone 1?M 4*tk fea-gncn ookmr,
'OTaLAapcd, its circamference .metfaring i feet 4 inches, by * feet 9 inches.
Concerning this ftone, tradition fay*, that in former times, when a peifon pit
Iris foot on it, be could -not be attached for debt. From tune munemoritJ, (t
has -faun behind ibme feoafts, "Which, with their yardt, fermerly belonged to tbte
church.
344 Statijiical Account
thofe who were regularly on the poor's roll, amounted ttf
36, befides a number of others to whom oceafiooal affiftance
was given. . It is to be obfenred, that out. of the above fum#
. received chiefly on account of the poor, between 2 1. and 3 U
are annually given to the prefbytery and feffion-clerk*, the
precentor, and kirk-officer;
Town of Girvan.—Tht town of Girvan is fituated at the
mouth of. the river bearing that name. It is a poll town*
and lies on the great road between Ayr and Port- Patrick *.
The town of Girvan poflefles many advantages for trade and
mannfa&ures. In the neighbourhood of a plentiful corn
country, with abundance of coal within a or 3 miles, and
probably much nearer, it enjoys in fufficient quantity, all the
neceflaries of life. Standing* very near the fea, and built on
a dry fandy foil $ its fituation is remarkably healthy. Its
harbour, far from being now a bad one* is capable of much
improvement. In its prefent natural ftate, the entrance into
the harbour is, at high .water, from 9 to xz feet deep ; and
were a key to be built, which, it is faid, might be done for
aopol. or 3000L, it would be rendered confiderably deeper.
The
• Thi* town Is a burgh of barony. A charter of ere&km was originally
granted to Thomas Boyd,- Eiq. proprietor of the lands o&Ballochtoul; on which
the town is chiefly built. This charter was afterward renewed by King WiU
fiam to Sir Archibald Muir of Thornton, in the year 1696*. The powers and'
privileges granted by it to the proprietor of Ballochtoul, were regularly carried'
down, in all the fubfequent charters and inveftitures, from the Grown. Thefe
powers were, however, never ufed ; till, in confequence of the great increafer
of the town, Mr. Hamilton of Bargeny,the prefent proprietor, thought of exer- •
cifingthem. Accordingly, in the year 1785, the town of Girvan did, by his'
direction, aflume the form of a burgh of barony. It h governed by % bailies,'
and a council of 10. The bailies are annually chofen by the council, and the
vacancies of the council are filled up by themfalyes. But the fuperior has a ne-'
gative unon both election*. The town, by its charter, enjoys all the liberties
and privileges belonging to other burghs of the fame kind*
6
i
The large never rifes here to any very great height ; and fa
happrly is the harbour fituated, that veffels can get I out to fe*
with a wind from almoft any quarter, if it does not blow very
hard. With £uch advantages, any kind of trade, and efpecialljr
the coal- trade, might, with good profpeft of fucceb, be carried
on. Hitherto, however, little or nothing has been done in
this way. There is at prefent, no more than one veffel above
ao tons burden, belonging to this place, ortfadtrrg to it. The '
reft are all fmalL, open, or half-decked boats, ufed for run- .
ning fait from Ireland, or freighting goods from pne part of »
the coaft to another. Nor, till very lately, was there any
thing deferving the name of manufacture to be fovnd in Gir-
van. The weaving of cotton-cloth has of late been intro-
duced by the manufacturers of Glafgow. Upwards of 100
looms are now «m)>loyad, aftd the buftbeft is extending every
day. That a fituation fa advantageous for trade or manu-
factures ibould fcave been fo long negle&ed, may appear fur*
prifing; but mav perhaps be in fome degree accounted for by
pbferving, that Girvan is placed at a coafiderable diftanc*
from any great tradipg or manufacturing town ; that no per-
fen bred to bufinefs, and at the lame time poflefling a good
Jfcapital, ever happened to fettle berfe, of in the neighbour-
hood $ and that habits of regular induftry were probably pre-
vented or dqgroyed by the pra&ice of fmuggling, to which
the inhabitants were, for fr long time, fo much addidted*
Therfe is reafon, however, to hope, that if trade and manu-
factures Continue lo flourish in the country, in general, Girr
%an will, In a Hiott time, acquire that {hare in them, to
trhich, from its natural advantages, it appears to be entitled
Vot.^IK 3U tttfM*
ifticat Account
NUMBER XXVII.
I FAMSH qe ISfOfLTHMAVEN.
(Count? of Orkney, Presbytery or Shetland.}
By the Rtv. Mr. Wiluam Jack.
NORTHIIfl AVEJjJT \s one pf the mpft northerly pariflief^
fubjeft to Britain, commodioufly fituated for navigation
and commerce, abounding in excellent harbours, from whence;
there is a fafe and ready paffage fo the different ports of Bri-
tain, to the Greenland feas, to the Baltic, Norway, apd Spain,
and having around its coaft vaft (opals of filh of various kinds ;
Ling, cod, tuik and herrings, which form valuable articles of
commerce, befides variety of fmaller fifties, which fupply tba-
inhabitants with a great part of their fubfiftence. Alfo many
Jarge beaches, and every requifitc to render it commodious foe
parrying on an cxtenfive fiihing,
Name,
bf Ndribiriavcrii 34?
Name, Extent; Situation and tf&^fe.— NoftKmaveh lies in the
idfdfhip and preffiytery of Shetland, fltUated between: 6o° 38"
*hd6o9 57" N. latitude, and in W. longitude from London aQ :
Ihthe eleventh nofrth climate, (according to Ricciolus, who has
regard to the refra&ion), hairing the fnn on the (horteft day;
4 hours and 3 quarters above the horiton ; though Smollet;
lift his modem Kiftofy, defcribihg the Hebrides, writes, «• that
id the molt northerly ifles, the fun, at the famine* foHlice, ii
not above ah hour undet the horizon, at midnight, 2nd not
Idnger above at mid-day in the depth of winter/* At prefent
the variation of the compaft is if points W. On the waft fide)
of the patifh, it is high water at 9 o'clock on the full and
change of the moon, but oh the eaft fide it ii ah hour and
a quarter later. The names of tho& places in this p'ariflt
ate from the Norwegian language, and are expreffive of their
fituatioh. Some fancy Notthmaf eh to fignify North Main;
Or north part of the Mainland ; others, that as the neck of
ltad which is the entrance to the parifti, fc called Mavin,' and
the whole parifti lying to the N. of it; that it has thencb
it* hame; - This parift is a penmfula, and the ifthmus which
fcoime&s it tb the Mainland of pafrifti of Beltings is froni
high water-mark oh one fide, to the fame on the other, near
4 00 yards, and fe low, that with high fpring- tides, the water
freafly covers it; Oh each fide of the ifthmus, the bills rife
fdmoft perpendicular. The eicent of this parifti is 16 com-
puted miles from S. to N., and from E. to W. 8 miles, but
df meafured miles it would be many more. .Iti ihoVes are
Very uneVeh, being interfered with numerous -inlets of the?
fea, called here Vats. It is walhed oh the eaft fide by Yell,
found and Sulem voe, which feparates it from the ifiand of
Yell and parifh of Belting f on the N. arfd W. fides by the?
Atlantic Ocean ; and on the S. by St. Magnus Bay, whith di«
iidts it from part of Dehing and Aithfting parifhes, and from]
&S Stafijicd Ac&W*
the iifead of Papa and Sanbefe ptriA. The cultivated fcrtiifr
op farms, called bere Room?, are {kiaU feattered ffQts, lying
near due fea fhjore, and' rou&4 the toys* They beer- a *erj
ftpall proportion to the hills and paftnxe ground* The figure
of the pariih approaches' neareft to-' a triangle* but witb awwjj
irregularities. The climate is mild, egi*aj, aeft temperate* the;,
air puse apd healthy in al| feafons* The winters are oaiUpe
than perhaps in aqy ether part of Britain, bei*g t*i*pe*ed by
the circitfnatabieiit ocean*. The beats of fuowwer are 1*6, foe
the fame reafon* High aqd fuddea winds are frequent. The
aurora borealis, in-^he winter, often cover* the* whole? henaif-*.
pfcwy, making a very brilliant appearance, and of different *o*.
lours :. It generally bar a fbong. tfjea*uk«s. motion fr©»
end to end* Th* h^heft hill i* thi$ epuptry, ip> o» the W.,
fide of tju*. parigiy eaj]*d R>oa**s bill, and extends, from the*
middle to the N. end of th* paxifi* * being & miles tag* 4
broads and near £ta& of a poiie perpendicular height, fc waft-
found by gpoaieiwcal menfaratioi* to be 394% f«$t above, th*
level of the fe*. Frora die fenn^rt of the hill, is exhibited
ap exten&ve, noble, and pleafiag prefpefo SO spies at leaft^
in every. dire&toa* having the ocean for an, horigQQv The n«K
nacrous- i&inde feattered beatfajfe, and CD*ioofly interbred b^
the fea, and often a diftant view of veflels which fpe^Uentr thefi*
eoafts in the fumoaer feafcn, afford: a profpe& infinitely divert
fified and agreeable. On the bigheft eminence, there is a*
honfe conftruQed of 4 la/go fl.ones^and a covering the top &e
a roof, wider which 6 or 7, perfons may fit. }t is called the/;
Watch Hottfe, and was probably *f«d, in ancient times,, to/
give notice of the. enemy* o£ any approaching danger j a*
pyramidal tower of fraall fioaes is ere&ed en tfce top cj£
i&. This hill is a landmark to* the fitters all round the;
coiytfry * apd gcfteraUjr the fiflft land feen, h$ flijjfc if they
Of Nvrtbman&i. pfe
fjjk 'H> t&t W« %f the country caawng from damnaatthera
tcpagea *.
lJto*4sf Bolmty JEQ0fx.4-Jnu8 parifh is bordered all axoondV
with fsnall iflaada, holms, and foots* or pillaura. near die &orcw
Theee ia only one inhabited ifiend called Lainbav on the £•
fide* pofib&d by one family ; it has but little corn knd, but
can graze a law cattle aad fbecp. At the S* end* and on the
W* fide* near the entrance into the pariflx,. lies Eagicfiicy» aa>
excellent ifiand for grazing, and in it* ace many rabbits N.
of thta lie a iitands, Nihon and Giioifter, and, like, the &r-t
mer, gvaoo cattk and (beep. Front this, there is a long ranges
e£ looks, holms, and iflands, to the N. end of the pariihv
The aaoft remarkable arc, a rock fifing pecpeedieuhr on all
fides to a. great height abotse the fiwface of the fee, and at a
few mile* cHftarae, hat the appearance of a fltip with all her
fella fetv It makes a good dire&ion for wJEoIb coming into*
HiUfwrck harbour, keeping to the E, o£ that nock, aad half'
Ira/ Jaom the (horc. Near to this, are 2 very high pillars*
ejt tohjeh the larger kind of cormorants neftle j- and what ie»
vcmarkabler only fuecefii vdy, for the rock that ia pofleflcd
by them one year, is deferted the nest, and t e turned to again*
aite* being a year unpofiefled. In this manner have thefia
socks, been, occupied time immemorial. Both jocks are in*
acceffible. Thcfe tmxnenie pillars, ate of the fame, materials*
with
* There are no river* nor wood"* in this parira, nor indeed in the whole coun-
try ; but it abounds in lochs- or frefh-water lakes, in which are sound fmall
Omits. From tnefe lochs, now rivulets, brooks or bums, which, after great falls
<$ rain, render travelling difficult, having no pope/ bridges. There are man*
tarings and wells of excellent water, and font mineral furings impregnated with
iron, but have never yet been properly inveftigated, nor ufed in the cure of anj
dtftemper. Apple trees, and fome barren (hrubs grow in gardens, but no high*
«r than the walk There are in many mofies, roots of trees found lying hoti*
aontaUfy from which fome think, that trees once grew ia this country.
j£0 Stdtijiical Account
with the crags on the fhore; which are off a (f upendotis height/
and feem to have been feparated by the force of the wave*; -
father than by volcanoes or any other eruptions. There i*
ah holm, called Dbrholm, from a remarkable arch patting
through its centre, which is very lofty and fpacious, and un-
der which boats fiui ; and there is an opening from the top,
which gives light to thofe below. Next to this, is die holm
and ifle of StennefS, which abound with kettywakes filling
every proje&ion and fcvery hole,- which can afford them any
fhelter. The new fledged young, are much efteemed, as de-
licate food; and taken in great plenty. To the northward of
this is a rock, the fummit of which; has never been trodden by •
man, and is called the Maiden Skerri*. In the fummer feafbtf
it is occupied by the largeft or black-backed gulls, who neftle '
on it undifturbed. About a miles from this flaorre, there is *
large and high rock called Ocean Sherry ; it is a good direc-s '
tton for (hips from the N*, if wanting an harbour.- Under it
bur fiflring boats, tfith eafterly wind, are happy to reach at
£lace, which will give them leave to reft upon their oar*. OtaT
the N. end of Rona's hill, is the ifland of Uya* efteemed tbtr
snoft valuable; for feeding cattle or fheep, of any belongiog
to this parifli. The northmoft point of the parifh is a fmaff
£eninfula, enclofed by a (tone fence, called Fetheland ; about
3 miles thence* there are high rocks called Ramnaftaeks. Chi
the E. fide of the parilh, going from N. to S. are the holm*
of libefter, Stourholm, and the holms of Skea, with Graft
ifland*
Harbours dnd I\/king Station*. — On the S. fide of the pa*
ri(h is a fpacious bay* called St. Magnus Bay, whieh leads tt£
the harbour and creek of Hillfwrck, where there is fafe a&df
excellent anchorage, for any number of veflels, or of any
burthen > having good moorings from 7 to ao fathoms water/
Hero-
0/ Nortbtnavco. 3 j|
ffere is a large and commodious beach for drying fifli, witk
ffood warehouses, and fait, and «fifli cellars, and every other
peceflary accommodation. From this creek, all the fith caught
fn the parifli are loaded for exportation, A little diftance
from this, is -an inlet called Hammerfvoe, a fecure retreat for
(hips in the mod tempeftuous weather. The rood wefterljr
point of this parifli is Stennafa, an excellent ftation for fi th-
ing, with an extenftve beach, and a warehoufe built for the
ponvenieucy of the fifhing. Here, there are from 40 to 50
|x>ats from this and the neighbouring parifhes during the fi(h»
ing feafon. A little further N. there is a fmall bay called
1 Haiunavoe, a fafe harbour for fmall veflels, the entry into
it being narrow j and here alfo is another fifhing ftation for
za or 15 boats, with fuitable conveniences. Still further
N. on the S. fide of Rona"s hill, is a hay called Rona's Voe,
punning up into the land 6 mile*, a large and fafe harbour ;
and here alfo is a fiihing ftation for 4 or 5 boats. On the N,
fide of the hill, i$ a ftation for 14 boats. It is called Uya.
The filh caught here are carried frelh to Fetheland, as there
is no beach at this place. The reafon of this ftation being
phofen, is its vicinity to the fiihing grounds. From this to
Sandvoe, a bay runs up 4 miles, which is a very good bar*
bour. From this Voe, 5 boats fail to the fame fiihing grounds
as the boats from Uyat Fetheland, the northmoft extremity,
is a chief fifhing ftatipn, frequented by about 60 boats. From
this and the pariibes pf Yell and Delting, is a road only for
large boats, and fmall floops in fummer, A (hort diftance
from this, on the £. fide, is Bqrravoe, a tolerable harbour $
but in the middle of the entrance, there is a flat broad rock
pnly feen at low water, which makes it a pilot's fare way.
Here alfo is ap excellent beach and ftorehoufe. Of late, the
proprietor has built a convenient pier for boats landing their
fiflij apd drained a Ipcfr at the back of the t*actu lie applied
fof
35<i Stt&mxt Jtttoxvt.
dor making this harbour « creek, tfcat he might get his M|
Atpped voder the infyeftion of the c*ftomh«wfe oftoers $ but
it not being granted, h obliged to catty his fifti to Hillfwkjfc,
wand Roaa's hill, the moll dangerous navigation on this
waft, ait much expend and rifle. South of this, are Gol.
fofirth and Quefirth voe«, both goad harbours, as alfo Gins
we* On the S. end, there is a long inlet of 6 miles, ealtod
fiuflam vee, a fine toad for flwps, and could keep a great
iisvjr. There are fevers! other fmafitr harbours, but not (6
fefe or fo mnch frequented as thofe now mentioned*
Paymtntsy Burthem, fee—The cultivated fends in this
fariih, as well aft in all Shetland, are fcattored ffct**, environ*
nd either by deep mofies, or by thio bare grounds* whereof
the tnofe his been cut for peats, or by fteep hills covered
with heath sod naked nooks. Thefe fpots are called RooO*^
which have, at ati early period, been divided into merk*,
but not equally. The value of oaeh merit* being afcertain*.
od by the number of pennies of tent it is denominated by,
So each merk of land is deemed to contain Co many penny
lands, from a to 4 penny land fhe merk, l£tch penny lan4
is uniformly valued at if merk wtigbt of bftttct i Mid th%
■Honey having come in place of the wadtnale -(being 4 oourifc
kind of cloth tnsnufaaared in thefe ifles) 1 s. and f«. Scot*
of rent. payable to the proprietor; that quantity of butts*
being origins lly held of equal value to this fum of if s. Scots 4
fo that lands efteemed at |a penny lands* paid of land teat
yearly, 16 marks of butter, and 16 s. Scots, whkh taken
together, was originally equal i* value to 3 as. Spots, t*
penny, 9 penny, £ penny, s5 penny, and 4 penny land, pai4
in the fame proportion to the landlords j Who, in proeefs o£
time, laid on their tenants, by way of fine or entry, en an*
*us& Jpm<of Ss, Soots, for each tnerk of land, without re*
*< % gafdia^
Of Nortbmavzn. 353
gartfing the penny rents ; and this is called the graffura. Be*
(des the payment of land tent to the proprietors of the lands,
the poffeffors pay a tax called Scatt, which was aneiently the
revenue of the Kings of Denmark ; and fince this country
being annexed to the Crown of Scotland, has been paid to »
the Crown or its grantees. There is another payment exact-
ed by the grantees of the Crown, called ox and flieep money,
which is laid to have been introduced by the Earls of Ork*
neyf when they lorded it over this country*
In the year 160c, Patrick Earl of Orkney, built the caftle
of Scalloway ; among the exa&ions made by him for carrying
on this building, one was, his compelling the inhabitants to
deliver a certain number of oxen and ftieep yearly for the
ufe of his table. It is (aid, that he demanded 24 fheep ancj
a oxen from each parifti, which oxen and fiieep were after*
ward converted into a yearly money-payment on the lands
in each parifti. Another payment exa&ed by the grantees
of the'Crown, is called the Watde. la the beginning of the
16th century, when Popery blinded mankind, the pried*
begged from thefe iflands, money under he name of Wattle,
in con&kration of the extraordinary benefit which the peo-
ple were to receive from the liberal diftribaition of holy wa«
ter among them. Another payment is the cefs, or land-tax ;
and as the lands of thefe illands pay fcatt, or a land-tax pecu-
liar to themfelves, it was, after fome ftrnggle, chat fhe pay*
ment of cefs took place in Shetland* Befides the above pay-
ments, the tenants pay com«-tiend: In this parifu the one
half to Sir Thomas Dundas, the other half to the incumbent,
according to ufe and wont. Befides, to the incumbent is pai4
cow and ftieep tiend, and a compofition of 1 5 lings for every
6 oared boat, and xo for every 4 oared boat. Further, the
tenant pays to the proprietor an hen and cock for every $
xnerks land, and 3 days * work to the proprietor and as many
, Vol. XII. Yy to
354 Sifftiftical jkcount
to the minifter, being maintained during that time, Befidesj
the tenant engages to fit out, at his own expenfe, a certain ihare
of a boat to the ling fifhing, which is proportioned to the va-
lue or number of merks of land. Alfo, to fell his fiih at a
certain ftipulated or underitood price to the landlord, and to
make the firft offer of all his other produds to him, prefers
able to all others. An annual falarj of about ix 1. Sterling
to the parochial fchoolmafter, coqcludes the payments and
burthens in this parifh.
Agriculture. — The foil, ftom eur northern and infular fitu*
ation, rather unfavourable for vegetation, muft be confide?*
ably barren. The bed crop of black oats and bear being tho
only grain which the foil will nourMh, is never fnfScient
for the inhabitants 9 months in the year $ and often when,
the feafons are unfavourable, not fufficient to maintain them;
4 months, though their allowance of bread is by far left thaa
in any other part of Great Britain. Their fifhing is the priq*
cipal, if not the only refource, to enable them to provide the
neceflaries of life, which venders their fupply very precarious^
To the particular account of the ftate of agriculture in the
neighbouring parifti of Delting, very little needs be added^
being the fame as here. About the year 1 750, potatoes be*
gan to be planted, and have proved of great advantage to the
inhabitants, being an early food in harveft, when bread is al*
snoft not to be had, and very comfortable with their fatal}
fi(b, of which, then, they haye ufually plenty. That grea{
imprtvements might be made ;n their mode of farming, is not
to be doubted ; but it may be a question if the country is ca-
pable of yielding an increafe f efficient for their fupport.
It feems better adapted for pafture, and carrying on the
fifhing. The predilection and fpirit of the people for the lat-
ter, fyas rendered them quite carelefs as to the former. CoufcJ
they
Mifey fee perfuaded to keep (hepherds, and the ibepherd to be
pftid out of the flock, it is not to fay what an increafe might
be in this parHh ih a few years* as the paftures are very ex-*
tenfive, and yet the iheep fewer in number than in other pa-
tches. In the winter, the iheep and horfe feed on fea-weed*
and endure all the rigour of the feafon without any flicker.
The number of ploughs has been decreasing in this parifh
for many-years^ At this time there are about 16 ploughs ;
the ground is moftly digged, or turned up wif h fpades, The
oats are fown* and the kail and potatoes planted in, the month
of April, and from the beginning to the middle of May the
bear-feed is fown. The harveft is between the firft of Sep*
tembef and firft of November* The rentallcd lands of this
pariih amount to 1 145 saerk land ; befides, there ate about
100 outlets* or new improvements, commonly eftlmated at 3
fcietfks each, and pay the landlord accordingly \ but are ex*
'ampted from paying foatt, cefe, or corn-tieod. Including
tbcfe improvameats with the rcntaUed lands* all will bear but
a fmalt proportion to the hills and pafture grounds* Every
900m or rooms contiguous to each other, are enclosed with
turf.fences* There is not one farm or houfc at prefent unpof*
fcfied or uninhabited.
Popxlationi— According to Df • "Webft^r's report* the num-
ber of fouls in 1755 was 1009- The population here has
been increafing fince the year 1760, owing to the fplitting of
forms and breaking ont new grounds. This was promoted
by the landlords for increafing the number of filhers. In the
year 1768, the prefent minifter of the parifh, upon his firft vi«
fitation of families, took a lift of ail examinable perfons*
which was obtained with difficulty,' owing to the prejudices
of the people. He found then 1 169 examinable perfons. In
the following vifitations the number was increafing, and the
Y y a people
Females,
m
99°
Widowers,
-
IO
Widows,
- «
34*
356 Statijlicld Account
people giving up their prejudices to taking "Tuch an account)
He, in the year 1777, took an exad lift of perfons of ever/
age, when thej amounted to 1594. They were found to io-
creafe gradually to the year 1784, when they amounted to*
1657, and in the year 1792, to the number of 1786, of whitb
an account follows .*
Inhabited houfes, - 290
Souls, - - - 1786
Males, - - - 796
Churchy Stipend, Sebvoi, Poor, — Sir Thomas Dundas is pa-
tron of this parifh. All the inhabitants are of the Eftablifhed
Church of Scotland. There have been two churches in this
parifh, each of them near to the middle of it, one on the E.
and the other on the W. fide. The former has been in ruins
fince the year 1761. The latter, at Hillfwick, is now the
only place of public worihip. The prefent incumbent, be-
caufe of the vaft diftance that many are from Hillfwick,,
preaches 3 ox 4 times a-year at the north, and moft diftant
end of the parifh, and at OUaberry, the former place of wor-
fhip. The church of Hillfwick was rebuilt in the year 1733,
and repaired in the year 1764. The manfe is at Hillfwick,
was built in 1768, but not being completed, it had repairs in
1790;-
* No regifters of marriages, baptifm^ or deaths, could be di&ovcred by the
yrefent incumbent upon his admiffion : Since, the marriage rcgiftcr has been
kept very diftindlly, and from it, on an average, there appear to have been 10
marriages yearly. The baptifm regiitcr cannot be regularly kept, on account
of the many private baptifms, in which they muft be indulged, becaufe of their
great diflance from their place of worQiip. But by the beft account that can
be taken, they amount on an average to 50. A regifter of deaths has not yet
been attempted to be kept, becaufe of the many burial places in the pariih, acui
the many accidents by Tea;
4
Of NortbnHWtn+ 357
1790 ; fo that at prefent it is pretty commodious. The va-
lue of the ftipend cannot be ascertained, being paid in kind,
yrhich renders it very variable. The glebe is fituated in, 4
. different places, each 3 miles diftant from the manfe, and 3
r/ierks land, which are contiguous thereto.— A legal fchool
was eftabliihed here in 1772, with a f alary of 197 merks 8 s.
9 pennies Scots, raifed by 2s. 3d- Scots on the merk land. The
ufual number of boys at this fchool was from 20 to 25. At
prefent they are only 14. There has not yet been a charity
fchool in this parifii. It is not to be doubted, if a proper re-
presentation was laid before the Society for Propagating
Chriftian Knowledge, that they would readily grant one for
fuch an extenfive pariih as this.
There are commonly from 14 to 18 poor on the parochial
roily each of whom are ftatipned on a certain number of fami-
lies in a corner, who maintain them as many days and nights
as they have merks of land. They will make 3 or 4 rota-
tions yearly in that corner. The weekly collections may a.-
mount yearly to 5 1. Sterling ; and the collections on . facra-*
mental occauons to 10 1. Sterling. From thefe collections,
the above dated poor, receive from 5 s. to io's. for clothes,
and from 8 s. to 12 s for ezpenfe of burial *.
Employment
' * Thefe poor are fuch as are arrived at extreme old age. Befides the above,
there are commonly on the lift one or two infants, who have loft their parents,
recommended by the kirk-feflion to fomc difcreet family, who receive 20 or 30 s.
yearly until they arrive at to years of age. After which time, they are treat-
ed and confidered as a child of the family. There is a fum of 25 1. Sterling
mortified by the Rev. Mr. James Buchan, formerly minifter of this pariih, the
intereft whereof is given to fuch, as, though now reduced to low circumftances,
were formerly in a more affluent ftate than the ordinary poor. "Befides, there
are feveral families reduced by misfortunes, who receive from 5 s. to 20s. Ster-
ling, though not on the poor's roil. In the year 1792, 24 families received 10s.
#&ch from the poor's funds. When any extraordinary misfortunes happen a fa-
mily
358 Stati/lkat Account
Employment of the Inhabitants. — The women look aftrf
domefttc concerns, bring up their children, cook the vi&nalf 4
look after the cattle, fpin, and knit ftockings \ they alfo af-
§ft, and are no lefa laborious then the men in manuring and
labouring the grounds, reaping the harveft, and manufactur-
ing their crop. The children are taught very early to be
helpful in the affairs of the houfe ; many of the young wo*
men are employed in May and Auguft in catting fea-weed
for kelp. The boys are early employed in fiflimg. The pro-
vince of the men is managing their fmali farms, the fifhing,
boat building, and cutting their peats, which are their only
Aid ; befides, they are generally tailor, fhoemaker, weaver,
Sec. to their own family, and many are ftnith and wright.
There are only 3 perfons in this parifh who make their Kv*
teg by their, trade alone ; two wrigbts and one flioemaker.
In
mily, or perfon, the ordinary method for their fupply isu to reprefent their ft ate-
from the pulpit, with fuitable exhortations, and appoint a day for a collection to
be made for their account* It is common to receive from 2 1. to 5 L Sterling on
fuch occafious. From this account, it is obvious, that in times of general cala-
mity, little more can be done by the kirk-feffion, or by the inhabitants of this
parilh. From the year 1782, the crops failed, and a great death prevailed a-
mong the horned cattle and fhecp, fo that thefe iflands, during that period, were
in very great diftrefc, anjl many muft have perifhed from want, if they had not
received feafonable and large fupplies. In the year 1783, they mared in the
fupply given by Government to the northern counties of Scotland. In 1784, a>
conuderable fupply was fent them by a vote of the Houfe of Commons. In the
following years, Thomas Parker, Efq. of Hull, and Alexander Alifo«,Efq. De-
puty Cafhier of Excifc at Edinburgh, fct on foot fubferiptions for their relief)
The former collected 3081. 16 s.; and the tatter 1049 1. S s. 7d. both which
funis Mr. Alifon fent, from time to time, to Shetland, in meal for food, and grain
for feed. On the night of the loth June 1791, many of our nfliing-boats were
loft at lea, which left many families in the greateft diftrefs. An early account
of this reaching Edinburgh collections were made for them there, and the poor
widows and orphans have, at three different times, received of this liberality r
ttaatoaitted by Mfcflrs. Robert Strong and Son merchants Leito.
Oflhrtbnmven. 359
Jn this northern climate, more attention, care, and toil, mull
be given to procure a bare fubfifteuce, them a comfortable oae9
with fomc fuperiuitics, where the earth yields a more certain
and plentiful increafq. When doth or ruifnaanagerjoent pre*
▼ail in the managers of a family, want and famine for a great
part of the year mult be the confequeace. And, alas ! this
js often the cafe, with the moft careful and provident, whe*
their crops ace Walled, and the fmall fifhing in winter fails.
Of the Fi/bing. — About the end of lafl, and beginning of
this century, the Hollanders reforted to this country to pur*.
fhafe fiih of the natives. They paid a gratuity annually for
this privilege to the proprietors. In May they arrived with
their vefieli, and fnpplied the natives with the neceffaries for
their families and fifliing apparatus. They received the fiih
$refh, which, after being faked and dried, and having made
in agreement with the proprietors for the next year's pro-
duce, returned with their cargoes *• It is ufual for every
flcipper
* To this day, it is common to point out the Dutchmen's lodges and beaches
in the feveral parts of the parifh. About the year 1712, the proprietors of land
took the fifliing tinder their management, when the debenture and regulations
refpe&ing duties on (alt were pafled. Then the landlords appointed fifliermeo*
imported fait, and all timing neceffaries, and freighted veflels for exporting their
fiih, which then, and for feveral years afterward, were fent to Hambuigh. The
landlords receive their fiih at a ftipulated price. From that period, to the year
I740, the fifhing was not diftant from the fhore above 8 or 10 miiesy carried on
in four oared boats, with few lines ; fo that the quantity then caught was few#
compared to the numbers now. But thofe few were more profitable to the fiih.
er; and, in confequence, they then lived comfortably, and indebted to none. A- ,
bout 1740, the boats increafed much in number, which induced them to fcek out
Anther to fea, to avoid their lines entangling, when crowded along (Lore. Find-
ing a new bank, they enlarged their boats, and increafed their number of lines,
till they gradually arrived to the prefent ftate. The proprietors now purchafe
their fiih by weight. The fifher, on an average, has 4d. each ling. But it'maft
J* allowed, that boats, lines, and all fifting neceffaries, arc now double the price
they
36a $tali/tical Account
(kipper or mailer of a boat, to appear ready at the fifhing (ta«
tico the firfl week of June, with their boats properly equipped,
and fifliing tackling in order. Each boat carries from 100 to
120 lines, of 50 fathoms length 5 each line having 10 hooks;
placed 5 fathoms from each other on a cord 4 foot long, A
boat's lines will extend 6000 fathoms, or about 6 miles and
an half when laid in the fea. Each boat has alfo 4 haddock
lines fitted ; their firft work is to obtain proper bait, and this
is their employment every evening and morning they are
afliore, as they wiih always to have frefli bait. Haddocks are
moft efleemed, of which it will take 6 or 7 fcore for the lines
of one boat. Piltocks are next valued, of which it requires
05 or 30 fcore; failing of thefe, hallibut, cod, tuik, or ling,
are ufed for bait* They fet out to fea, when weather per-
mits, from zo o'clock A. M. to 2 o'clock P. M. according to
Che fiflung ground they intend to vifit, being from 10 to 40
miles diftant from the fhore. When arrived there, about 6
or 7 o'clock at night, the ift end of the line is funk by a
ftone of 24 pounds weight ; then 2 or. 4 men pull to feaward:
the remainder fet out the lines, and fix pieces of bait pro-
perly cut, on every hook ; and at the diftance of every two
lines, are (tones fixed about 8 pound weight ; and, at the
other end of the line, a large ftone as at the firft. There are
buoys at each end of the line, made of fheep Ikin, and 2
mid-buoys, for finding the lines, lead they break while haul-
ing. Every line for the buoy, is 120 fathoms and more. The
lines being joined together, fo as to form a long train, the
boat keeps clofe by the buoy laft dropped, for 2 or 3 hours,
according to the tide and weather. When they begin to haul
or
they were before 1750. In the account of the fifliing from the neighbouring pariih
of Delting, there is an accurate ftatement of the annual ezpenfes of boats, lines,
Jtc. and the annual returns and balances in favour of iharers in boats, which fu«
^erfedes any thing being (aid here on the fubjcdl.
(jf Nortbfnaven. $6t
6f uke in their lines, every fi(h, as brought into the boat,
they cut off the heads, and throw them into an apartment by
themfeiyes, then take out the guts and entrails. It fome-
times happens, that they cannot carry their draught with
fafety to the ftiore ; in which cafe, they firft throw the heads,
ikate, hallibut, tufk, cod, and fometimes ling. Boats have
taken afhore 20 fcore lings j is or 14 (core, with cod and tuik,
is efteemed a great haul ; 5 or € fcore is c deemed a medium.
In moderate weather, they commonly reach their landing
place, from 12 noon to 4 P. M. They have been known to
be out 3 days and 3 nights. All the ftores they ever carry
with them, is an half anker filled with the drink called Blan-
da, a cake of bread to each man, and a bottle Geneva. The
filhing ends the 13th Auguft. Old men and boys are em-
ployed at the fifhing ftation for curing the fifli. The old men
cut out the back bone, after which the boys wafh the fiih in
the fea, bring them again to the old men, who fait them in
tubs or vats, for the purpofe, where they lie a competent
time (baking in brine. When taken out of tkefe vats, they
rnuft be carefully wafired with a broom in fait water. They
are then laid in heaps for a day or two, and then, at proper
intervals, eipofed to the fun, till perfectly dried, taking care
gradually to increafe the piles or fliples into which they are
built as they harden. In this way, they are kept on the
beach for 6, 8, or 10 weeks until cellared or Ihipped *.
Vox. XII. Z z Some
* A committee of Parliament in vj 86", declared, that the beft means of im-
proving the fifheries, was to encourage the inhabitants living neareft the feat of
them to become fifliers. What defcription of men, then, can have a better title
than the poor inhabitants of this parifli ? Who ftiould be more encouraged, or
iuitably rewarded, than a (tout, hardy, and laborious race of men,* who have a
predilection for the employment of fiihing, above all other purfuits, though none
attended with more fatigue and danger, or hitherto rewarded fo meanly ? The filh-
era complain that they are not permitted to difpofe of their fiih and produce to the
beft
362 Statifiical Account
Some time after the white fiihiog is ended, it gederaHjr
happens that herring crowd into our bays and voes, on the
W. fide of this parifh. Many of our fmall boats are then
employed daring the night in catching herrings, and old men.
and boys in the day time in caring them. The herring com-
monly leave the coaft in November. From the above, it is
obvious that there cannot be a more laborious and induftri-
ous people, than the lower clafs in this parifh, from March
to* November, and that every perfon is a&ively employed
during that time ; but, in the winter months, except pro-
curing fmall fifli for their own confumption, and a few lings
which are caught occafionally, they are employed to little
advantage *•
Dif cafes.
be fr advantage'; that the toil and peril of fiftiing is impofed upon- them, without
a profpeft of profit. The landlords fay, that the tenant pays but half rent for
his lands, and every necefiary for the fiftiing provided firft by them. Bat not to
enter farther into the caufe, although the prefent practice may have advantages
equal to its difadvantages, yet the appearance of a monopoly is a rircumftance,
which feldom fails to be confidered as a {grievance. This connexion betweea
proprietors and tenants v has often been the origin of difputes, between proprietors
and others, as interlopers,, and trafficking with their tenants and filhers. A
friendly and benevolent behaviour towards their tenants, is a characteriftic that
will apply, in general, to proprietors in this country; but their granting no leafes,
it- much againft improvements,, and keeps the tenants in conftant dependence*
* lite bays afford great plenty of fhell-fifli,. fuch as oyfters, cockles, mufclee
fpouts, fttc. Thefe, in time of general fcarcity, have often proved a great re-
lief to poor families. It may be obferved, alfo, that fometimes there are vaft
fhoals of fmall whales. When feen near the more, all the people around ancm~
ble, and with their boats drive them aground. Anno 1741, in the bay of Hillf-
wick, 36*0 were forced a-(hore, and yielded from 2 to 4 barrels of oil each : m
1768, ten were taken at the fame place ; and in 1791, above 100 were caught
there alfo. A falfe refinement, or fenfe of delicacy, prevents the people from
making the fmalleft ufe of the flefli of thefe fmall whales, although there is
every reafon to think, from the fmallnefs of the fibres, and appearance of the
flefh, that, fetting afide prejudices, it would make not indelicate food. In 1741,
by
f)f Northmavtn* 363
sDj/#«/tj.— Epidemic difeafes prevail but fcldom, owing
•probably to our free air, and our houfes being feparated from
each other. The rheumatifm is a very common complaint,
both among the poor and rich. There is a fpecies of leprofy
that has been more prevalent than at prefent, and of which
we have had feveral miferable inftances in this parifh ; it fel-
dom afiefts any but the lower clafs of people. Its fymptoms
approach nearer to thofe of elephanthiafis, than any other
description. It is fuppofed to proceed from low living, un-
wholefome, or ill prepared food, and living nattily. Many
poor obje&s under this difeafe have been fent to the infirmary
of Edinburgh, but they either died , there, or returned un-
cured, and foon perifhed miferable fpe&acles of wretchednefs.
This difeafe does not feem to be infectious ; but in many in*
fiances there is reafon to fufped an hereditary taint. The
fufferers are, however, always fet apart, and provided for, and
fupplied by the parifk. When taken early, there are in-
ftances of its being cured. Convulfions were once very com-
mon in this parifb, efpecially during the time of divine fer-
vice ; but are now quite extinct. The cure is attributed to
a rough fellow of a kirk-officer, who toffed a woman in that
ftate, with whom he was often plagued, into a ditch full of
water. She was never known to have it afterward; and o-
thers dreaded the like treatment. The fmall pox heretofore
proved extremely fatal. Mod of the old people in this pa*
rifh, date their age from fuch a year before or after the mor-
tal pox, which was in 1700. Inoculation was perfectly ge-
Z z % neral
py reafon of the extreme fcarcfty then prevailing, fome families were induced
privately to make afe of their flefh, and all fuch declared it to be equal to any
other beef. It may be objected, that hunger is a good fauce ; but in Iceland and
Faro, where thefe whales are caught annually, their flefh is much efteemed.
jOur coafts are alio infefted with the large grampus whale, from Auguft to J)e»
member. Of thefe, our others are afraid, and avoid them as much as poffible.
364 Statijiical Account
neral in 179?, and extremely fucce&ful. The people hert
have no prejudices againft it.
Drefs, longevity, Stature, &c. — The gentry drefs fuiu
able to their character, and fimilar to the fafbions in Ediu~
burgh. The lower clafs wear cloth of a coarfe quality of
their own making. When employed in fifliing, they have
coverings of barked (kins of (beep which they put over their
clothes, and large wide boots. On Sabbaths, the ufe of
cloths from Scotland or England, is becoming very frequent
among them. The kirk-officer who died in 1791, was aged
95. He calculated, as was ufual with old people, from the
time of the mortal pox, viz. 1700, and afferted, that then
he was able to run a fliort errand of a mile or two. There
are at prefent living, 3 perfons above 90 years old, and 10
from So to 86 years of age, fome of the latter flout and vi-
gorous ; but no report nor record of any being loo years
old. The men are generally robnft, ftrong, and talL There
is one man 6 feet 5 inches. There are 6 men above 6 feet,
and many from 5 feet 8 inches to 6 feet high. The people,
in general, are difcreet and kindly, remarkably attentive to
ftrangers, and charitable to the needy, even fuch as are them-
felves but in narrow ciircnmftances. There is not one inftance
of a criminal profecution againft any of the inhabitants of
this parilh.
Animals and Birds.— The beef, mutton, and pork, reared in
this parilh, are juicy and delicious. The horfes little, but
a£kive and hardy; The fowls reared, are geefe, ducks, and
hens. No pigeons in dove-cots, but a good many wild flocks
of them nettling in caves f •
Antiquities.
* Migratory Wnfr.— Swans vifit the lochs, or frelh-watei lakes in this parilh
twice
Of Nortbmavenn 365
A*iiquitus. — There is a xange of watch-houfes, fimilar to
that defcribed on Rona's hill, and many remains of burghs,
duns, or Pi&s' houfes, but none of them of remarkable mag-
nitude, or entire. Their deiholition is owing to the waftejof
time, and ftones removed for the conftru&ing of neighbouring
buildings. The molt entire of this kind is on the W. fide of
the parifli, fituated on an holm in a loch, from which there
has been a narrow path laid with Hones to the oppofite bank ;
the circular wall can be traced, and fome fteps of flairs, which
have afcended circularly in its interior. The watch-houfes
or ward-hills are built within fight of the fea, and one or
more within fight of each other. Befides the ufe they might
be of in giving an alarm in times of danger, a probable inten-
tion of them might be, in times when flioals of fmall whales
were far more freauent on this coaft than at prefent, to ob-
ferve and colled the inhabitants in the vicinity, when any
flock of thefe appeared. They are applied to that purpofe to
this day in the Tawe iflands. There are feveral ftupendous
caverns made by the force of the fea ; in fome, the wild pi-
geons neftle* and bring forth their young, others ferve for
flielter to feals and otters.
Mifcellaneous Ohfervatioru* — Tfce average value of annual
pxport.
Ling, cod, and tulle, from 6$ parifh boats, L. 2300 o o
Oil, - 350 o o
Carried over, L. 2650 o o
twice a-year, but do not nettle here. The kettywakes, and Thomas None birds,
aeftle in great numbers, and come here in May, and return in Auguft. The
chalder, a bird which lives on lempots, which it feparates from the rock very
jlexteroufly with its long red bill, vifits us in April, and leaves us in Auguft.
The native birds are not peculiar to this parifli, but common to the whole coun-
try, and mnft be referred to the accounts given by others.
$66 Stati/iical Account
.Brought over, L.
1650
0
0
. Herrings, - - -
30©
0
0
Beef, hides and tallow,
35o
0
0
Butter, - - -
150
0
0
Fine and coarfe ftockings, gloves, and caps,
300
0
•
Kelp,
xoo
0
0
' Calf, otter, and feal fldns,
3°
0
0
L.
3880
0
0
In the year 1732, boats went out from Hillf wick upon the
appearance of wreck, and different quantities of wood in St.
Magnus's Bay, and found the captain of the flap and cabin-
boy on a float of the wood. The captain reported that the
veffel fplit at fea two days before. The greateft part of the
cargo was faved and brought to Hillf wick, and fold for the be-
hoof of the captain*.
After
* In 1 741, a large Dutch vcflfcl, men and cargo, were loft off Uya, the N.
part of the parifh, and molt dangerous part of our coaft. Her guns are yet to
be feen. In 1745, another large Tcflel of the fame nation was wrecked on the
fame place. The men, and great part of the cargo faved, and fold for the be*
hoof of the owners. In 1783, a boat went from Hillf wick to pilot in a veffel,
feen off the mouth of the harbour ; upon boarding her, found her deferted, and
upon endeavouring to fteer her, all fails being up, found the helm could not di-
rect her, not discovering that ihe was dragging % anchors. Upon the boat coming
a-fhore, and giving fuch account, feveral boats were manned and fent to her.
The weather being ftormy, a high fea, and a dark night, the men in the boats
could not board her, and in the morning were furprifed to find her at anchor
near the ihore. Some hours after which, lhe parted her cables, and came a-Jhore
on a fand ; ihe was loaden with logs of wood, andxpot-a(hes, from the Baltic
Two days afterward, lhe was claimed by the captain, who, with the crew, had
left her only a few hours before the firft boat came to her. Ship and whole cargo
were fold for behoof of the owners. She belonged to Waterrord, and was called
t^e Sea-Flower. Two or three other Hoops were loft 00 this coaft ; but owing to
mtfaanagement.
Of Nortbtnavcn. 367
After confidering the above accout, can it be doubted that
the fitoation of the tenants might be much improved, by
granting leafes, by larger farms, by indulgence and aid from
the proprietors at the beginning, to enable them to flock,
their farms, and make the proper improvements ; by a full af-
furance and confidence that they were entirely free from all
reftraints in their dealings with others, when they paid their
landlord, agreeable to contrad. Is it not alfo obvious, that
if 3 or 4 ikilful farmers, and as many fliepherds from Scot-
land, were fettled commodioufly in the parifh, that the far-
mers in the place would imitate their example ? For it can-
not be faid that they are wedded to their own pra&ices and
ways $ fo that a few years might make a great alteration to the
better in their circumstances. It is clear alfo, that the te-
nants pofiefling the larger farms, and flieep paftures, fhould be
employed folely in that way, and by no means engaged in the
fifhing. I have heard it advanced by gentlemen well known
in the ftate and fituation of this pariih, that it would be much
for its advantage, if one fifh was not caught by them in feven,
years. However that be, it is not to be doubted that it would
be of great advantage to the people that a great many of the
tenants were confined to the improvement of their farms*:
though
mifmanagement, more than to weather, or any other misfortune. Since the
year 1745, there have been 30 fifhing boats loft at fea, belonging to thi» parifh,
by which many a widow and fatherleft child have been left in the greateft difc
trefs.
* That employment which gives the readieft relief to poor people, will be
purfued before that which is more profitable, if the returns be at a more diftant
period. As there mould be many farmers who were not fifliers ; fo it would be
alfo of advantage that every mafter of a fiflung-boat was not a farmer. And, as
it is faid, that fuch mould be idle the half of their time, might they not alfo be
employed m fpinning and making their lines and herring nets ? might they not
alfo be carpenters, tailors, weavers, among them, but not fo as to prevent their
attention to the fiihing. The making of coarfe foap, tanning their leather on a
fmall
368 Statiftical Account
though the tenants in a lower clafs might be employed i)f
turns in fanning and fifhing, and indeed an attempt to prevent
it altogether would be fruitlefs.
NUM.
(malt fcale, as the place affords the neceffary materials, would be of benefit ; as
* tlfo, the making of fait from fea-water. The women to be employed in fpin-
■ sing coarfe linen for fails, and the eftabltfhment of an woollen manufa&ufe
would be of the greateft benefit. In ihort, there is, perhaps, fcarcely any parifli
whatever, that admits of more improvements for the benefit and comfort of the
people than this pariih of Northmaven.
Of Traqvair* $69
NUMfiER XXVIII.
PARISH op TRAQJJAIR.
(County of Peebles, Synod of Lothian and Tweed-
dale, Presbytery of Peebles.)
By the Rev. Mr. John Walker.
Name.
THE parifh of Traquair confifts of the old parilh of St*
Brydc, and the greateft part of the parilh of Kailzie,
Which was fuppreffed as far back as the year 1674, and part-
ly joined to this parifh, and Innerleithen* The water of
Quair, which has its rife, and its Whole courfe in the parifh,
has given origin to the name, which, until the annexed part
of Kailzie was added, lay upon the flopping fide? of the hills
which fupply its current : and as the valley of a ftream is
called its ftrath in Scotland, it is eafy from Strathquair to de-
duce Traquair. In a charter granted by Robert, Duke of
Albany, in favours of William Watfon, fon to William Wat-
Vol. XII. 3 A Ion
3 7° Statiftical Account
fon of Cranfton, containing a grant of the lands of Traquair,
&c. dated at Edinburgh, anno 1409, it is fpelt Traquar.
Extent, Situation, Surface, Wr, — The greateft length of the
parifh is along the fouthern bank of the Tweed, which lies in
*he dire&ion from E. to W. between 8 and 9 miles. From
the Tweed to the fource of Qjwir is from 4 to 5 miles, which
is its greateft breadth is the direction from N. E. to S. W.
It contains, according to Armftrong, who made a furvey of
the county about 16 years ago, 17,190 acres, about 40CO of
which are arable. The figure is very irregular, being fre-
quently interfefled by the parifli of Yarrow. It is bounded
on the N. by the Tweed. The general appearance of the pa-
rifli is hilly, rocky, and mountainous. Minchmoor, over
which the old road to Selkirk paffes, is more than 2000 feet
above the fea, and Gumfcleugb, and fome other heights in the
parifli are at leaft 200 feet above Minchmoor. The hills, in
general, afford excellent pafture for ikeep. The foil on the
low grounds, though in general ftiallow and ftony, is fertile ;
and on Tweed haughs there is a confiderable depth of loam
depofited by the river in the courfe of. ages. The fbutb fides
of the hills are generally green, while their northern expofure
is heathy, and of a darker complexion. There are no volca*
nic appearances in any part of the parifli, though many of the
neighbouring mountains, according tp fome theories, may be
thought to fupport fuch an opinion ^ as they are piked or co-
nical^ The common whin rock, a finer kind approaching to the
bafaltes, a coarfe fort of granite, and a confiderable quantity
of flate.are the only kind of Hones found in the parifh. The
flate was formerly wrought in confiderable quantity, but they
have of late rather dug at the top, than opened the quarry
properly, and on that account the flates are found not to bear
expofure to the air without fluvering. The noble family of
Traquair
* Of Traquair. 371
Traquair have made feveral attempts to difcover lead mines,
and have found quantities of the ore of that metal, tfiough not
adequate to indemnify the expenfe of working, and have
therefore given up the attempt. Not long fince, a fpecimea
of the Galena ore was found in one of the ltreams which falls
into Quair water.
Climate, Bifeafcs. — The air is dry and healthy, though
there are no well authenticated inftances of longevity. The
lower part of the parifli enjoys a mild and temperate air,
though the tops of the hills are covered with (how, and the
attraction of the mountains often deluges the upper part with
rain, when almoft none of it is felt in the vallies. The clouds
are often feen floating in the air, attracted from mountain to
mountain, when there is funfliine beJow. The inhabitants
generally enjoy good health, and are fubjeft to no epidemi-
cal difeafes. Rheumatifm more generally prevails than any
other diforder, which is generally denominated the pains ; the
caufes of which, perhaps, are the poor manner of living, the
badnefs and dampnefs of the houfes, the fcarcity and dearth
of fuel, and an attachment to fifhing at night with lights,
which is principally pra&ifed early in the fpring, and late in
the autumn feafons, after the Tweed is flooded with rain. In
fummer 1789, the fmall-pox, which, for feveral years, bad
not vifited the parifli, prevailed very much, and cut off feve-
ral children ; but though there was a great prejudice in the
minds of the inhabitants againft inoculation, many aQf them,
were prevailed upon to inoculate their children, and all of
them did well, the experience of which has gone far to re-
move their former prejudices.
Fifty Birds, &c« — The river Tweed, which runs along
the whole N. fide of the parifli, formerly produced a great
3 A 2 quantity
yjt ^ Statiftical Account
quantity of fidmou, which are now bat feldom caught, ex-
cepting after the river has been flooded : it is probable, there*
fore, that the methods employed to prevent the filh from get-
ting up the river, are the caufes of their decreafe. Coufidet*
able quantities of trout are caught in Tweed and Quair wa-
ter. What is called the fea-trout is more frequently found
in the Quair ; both the fea and burn-trout are of an excellent
quality. They are principally diftingoiihed by the whiteqeis
and rednefs of the fifli. . The trout are caught from die be-
ginning of April to the end of September ; they are chiefly
taken by the net, which deffroys angling. The king's fifber
- has been frequently feen on the banks of the Tweed* Large
flights of wild gecfe are frequently feen paffing from the S. to
the N. in the harveft feafon. The plover, fieldfare, woodcock,
dotterel and cuckoo, are frequently feen in their feafira* The
krgeft kind of ;raven, and the true hunting hawk, annually
hatch their young in Gleadeau's banks. The fox. is alfo •
conftant inhabitant of -them. «
Population. — According to Dr. Wcbfter*s report, the num-
ber of fouls in 1755 was 651; From the beft information,
there is reafon to believe that the parifti, about 40 years agor
was double in population to what it is at prefent. There were
then % confiderabk villages in it; the one is entirely gone; and
a few ftraggling houfes are all that remain of the other. Farm*
now poflfefled by one, were then in the hands of a, 4, nod e*
ven 6 farmers, and the number of cottagers, befides the iaha-
bitants of thefe villages, greater. The number of perfoo*
from 40 years old, and upward, might then amount to 400,
when, at prefent, there are not above 239 ; of thefe 1 29 are
females, and no males. The whole fouls in the parifh at
prefent are 446: Under *o, — 118; Under ao, — 88 j> 48 of
whom are males, and 40 females ; under 50,-181 ; under 70,
— 39 >
Of fraquair. 373
*-39; under 100,-19: of thefc laft, the oldeft is 89, who
enjoys foch health as fometitaes to walk to church, though
diftsnt from him above three miles, and to return home again
without being greatly fatigued,
Sheep, Horfes and Cattle. The ftaple commodity of the
parifli it Jheep, of which there are fuppofed to be about 10,000.
Large diftri&s are occupied by one farmer, feveral of wh6m
have part of their flieep- walks in the pariih of Yarrow, though
their houfes are all in the parifli of Traquair. There are 98
horfes, and about 200 head of black cattle.* The value of
wool has greatly increafcd within thefe few years, though
they, in general, bare their farms ftocked with Scottish black
faced fheep, they being reckoned better adapted than any o-
ther for the lands in the parifli.
Agriculture, Heritors, Tenants, MV— The whole of tht
ploughs employed by the farmers, are the old Scottifli ploughs,
excepting two, which are of an improved conftrudion : but
the old plough is fuppofed to anfwer beft ; they are feme-
times drawn by 4 horfes, generally by a. When % horfes are
e&ployed, they are dire&ed by the man who holds, when
there are 4, they are conducted by a boy. It is impoffible to
afcfertaiu the number of acres employed annually in tillage*
The principal crops in the pariih are oats and barley. There
is a fmall quantity of ground fown in wheat, but nothing e-
qual to the confumption, The pariih exports confiderable quan-
tities both of oats and barley* It is believed from good au*.
thority, that there are annually exported of the lad mention*
ed grain 500 bolls. A fmall quantity of turnips is annually
raifed; which anfwers very well ; and almoft every individual
in the parifli has hit crop of potatoes. Either turnips, po-
tatoes,
374 Statijiical Accbunt
tatoes, or peafe (of which a confiderable quant it y) are fawrt
as a preparation for a fucceeding barley crop *.
The fheep lands, and the ground employed in tillage, are,
in general, occupied by the fame perfons. One who has no
iheep, but employs the ground he rents folely in tillage, pays
for fome of it a 5 s* the acre ; but, in general, the arable
ground is not the half of that price, nor worth it* There are
5 heritors in the parifh. By far the greateft proportion of the
lands belong to the Earl of Traquair, who formerly refided in
it at Traquair Houfe ; but the whole family, for feveral years,
have been on the Continent. There is only one refident he-
ritor at prefent. The greateft part of the .pariw is poffeffed
by 10 farmers, one of whom pays above 300 1. a.year, 3 a-
bove 200L, 5 above xoo 1. There is a number of fmaller
tenants. The whole inhabitants of the parifh are employed
in agriculture, except the few following : 6 weavers, 5 joiners,
1 blackfmith and an apprentice, 1 mafons, x fkinner, and an
apprentice, x (hoemaker ; the whole of whom are employed
by the inhabitants, except the fkinners, who export their dref-
fed (kins to Edinburgh. There are, befides, 5 tailors, who
are likewife employed by the inhabitants f. There are 1%
Seceders,
V
* Oats arc fown from the beginning of march Old Style, to the end of April :
larley from the middle of April to the end of May : Peafe from the toth of
March till the middle of April : Wheat from the middle of September to the
middle of October. The crops are generally cat down early in the feafon, the
reflexion from the hills cauHng them to ripen quicker than might be expected*
f The number of fervants in the different branches of husbandry vary ac-
cording to the feafon of the yeaf . Female fervants are more numerous in fura-
mer than in winter, being engaged for ewe-milking and harveft work in gene-
xal, at 3I. and from 1 1. to 1 1. 10 s. in winter. A male fervant at 6 1. Out-
herds are paid by the free grafs to a certain quantity of fheep, or the ufual wa-
ges, 5* (tones of meal and a cow's grafs. The married fervants, of which Uiere
are a great many, have, in general, 5 L 10 s., their provtfions in their mailer's
family, a free houfe and a garden, with as much land as they can manure, to
plant
Of Traquair. 375
Seceders, raoftly of the Antiburgher congregation, and 3 Ro-
man Catholics. The proportion of the annual births to the
whole population, is as 1 to 27 ; the annual deaths as I to
38, and* fmall fraftion. Each marriage, at an average, pro-
duces from 5 to 6 children. There are from 3 to 4 marria-
ges annually. The union of farms is to be confidered as the
great caufe of depopulation in this parilh. And the ahfence
of the noble family who formerly constantly refided in it, and
muft have given employment to a variety of labourers, muft
likewife have greatly contributed.
Stipend, Cburchx Mart/e, Poor, &c — The value of the
living, including the glebe, is about 78I. Sterling. The mo-
nied (Upend is 54L 16 s. nd., and 16 bolls of oatmeal, and
8 bolls of bear. The glebe contains about 11 Scots acres,
which, together, make the fum above fpecifjed. The King,
in right of the Archbifhop of Glafgow, is patron of the old
parifh of St. Bryde. The Earl of Traquair was patron of
the fupprefled pariw of Kailzie ; but that family being Ca-
tholic, could claim no right in the fettlement of Traquair.
The church was rebuilt about 9 years ago. The heritors, in
fpring 1790, very liberally contributed for rebuilding the
manfe for the prefent incumbent, which is not as yet finifhed,
and they are likewife to rebuild part of the offices, which,
when completed, will render the minifter's accommodation
very comfortable,— There are, at prefent, ic perfons receiv-
ing alms, who ate all, excepting one, who, it is faid, has
been bedfaft upwards. of 23 years, able to do a good deal to-
wards their own maintenance. Thefe 10 perfons are upon
the feffion's roll, and the annual amount of money for their
relief,
plant potatoes, or (of barley upon. The male fervants are more numerons in
winter than in fammer. The married (enrants, be&les their former emoluments,
have their fuel brought home by their maften.
376 Stailftical Account
relief, is 231., arifing from mortified money, a voluntary af~
feffment of themfelves by the heritors of 61., and the collco*
tions at the church.' The beginning of the mortified money
belonging to the poor of the parifh, was a donationftf 1500
merks left by a Mr. Gerome M'Call, minifter or parfon of
the parifli before the Revolution, to which 300 merks by Mr*
Alexander Veitch of Glen, one of the heritors ofcthe parifli \
and 100I. Soots by Mr. Thomas Moffat merchant in Peebles*
were foon after added. Thexmoney now belonging to the
poor, amounts to 207 1., laid out at 4 per cent, intereft. Be*
fides this fum, Alexander Brodie, Efq. who was born in the
parifh, now living in Carey Street, London, has fihce i?83,
fent, at different times, the fum of 65 1. 16 s. to be diftributed
among, both fuch as are upon the feffion's roll, and to poor
houfeholders. This gentleman's liberality, both does honout
to himfelfj to the place of his nativity, and to human na*
tare : and are the beft evidences to mankind that he merits
that affluence which his genius and induftry have acquired-
Mr. Brodie's liberality, added to the fum above mentioned,
makes the fituation of the poor vejy comfortable.
Moral*. — Within, lefs than 30 years, the people of tht
parifli have changed their chara&er very much to the better.
They were then much addi&cd to drinking to excefs. There
were at that time more than 6 alehonfes ; at prefent there is
only one public houfe, which is feldom, if at all frequented,
but by thofe who are tranfafting buiinefs, or by travellers,
and is on thefe accounts neceffary. They are now fober, and
induilrious, and are generous, and humane, when called to
the exertion of thefe qualities, as was evidenced both in tht
dearth of 1782, and fince, to a poor widow, who was left
with 6 children. They enjoy, in a confiderable degree, the
comforts and advantages of civilized life. Even the pooreft
in
Of Traquair. 377
in the parifli, are, by the generality of Mr. Brodie, former-
ly mentioned/ furniflied with the means of having their chil-
dren properly educated, who has, for a confiderable time paft»
fent annually to the fchooimafter 5I. 5 s. for educating the
poor children in the parifli ; which, as it furnifhes the means
of inftruftion to fuch as might either* be deprived of it, or
who might enjoy it in a more fparing manner, is a very con-
fiderable advantage, and muft redound to the honour of the
liberal contributor. No inftances are known of any being
baniflied from the parifli, nor of any who have left it for mif-
condudt of any kind. There is not one of them but what is
$ native of Scotland.
School. — At an average, there are 30 fcholars who may be
faught englifli, writing, arithmetic, and book-keeping. The
teacher can alfo teach menfuration. The greateft number of
his fcholars, are fuch as are learning englifli. For a country
fchoolmafter, he has an exceeding good hand of writing,
and teaches both arithmetic and book-keeping very well ;
though few of his fcholars are able to attend fo long as to
feel much benefit by his accomplishments. The emoluments
of his office are very fcanty, and no way adequate to his ufe-
fulnefs, which, though no partial evil to that race of men,
fenders it the mote to be regretted. He receives 61. from the
. heritors, 5 1. 5 s. from Mr. Brodie $ the fees ariiing from the
office of feffion-clerk, annually may amount to il. 10 s.
He has likewife a free houfe and garden. As a confiderable
number of his fcholars are upon the charity, the fchool-
wages are no great matter, being but a peffed trifle a-quar-
ter. As a precentor, he is very well qualified for his office*
His whole emoluments can hardly exceed aol., and with that,
by great economy, he fupports decently, a wife and 5 fmall
children.
VpL. 2£II. 3 B Antiquities
3 78 Statyiical Account
Antiquities and Natural Curiqfitits. — The bufh aboon Tr*»
quair, which in former times might be a confiderable thicket,
of birch-trees, the indigenes of the foil, is now reduced to 5
lonely trees, which fblitarily point out the fpot, where love,
and its attendant poetry, once probably had their origin.
Part of the houfe of Traquair is of very remote antiquity,
was built on the bank of the Tweed, eafily defenfible from
that fide, and might poflibly, in the days of hoftility, be pro-
perly guarded on the other. It was in the form of a tower.
There have been feveral other tower houfes in the pariih, one
of which is ftill almoft entire at Cardrona. The tradition
of the country is, that there was a continued c^ain of thefe,
houfes fo fituated on both fides of the Tweed, as by lights
placed in them, intimation might be given from one to an-
other of the approach of any foe. There are feveral places
dendminated Chefters, where there are evident marks ftill
remaining of lines of circumvaUation, moftly circular in their
form, which feem rather places intended for a fecurity to
their cattle againft fudden incurfions, than regular encamp-
ments. Tradition dignifies them by the denomination of Ro-
man camps. They are all conftru&ed upon the top of emin-
ences not eafily available, and every particular diftrid has its,
own. Their frequency is perhaps the beft indication of their
ufe. Glendean's banks are remarkable for their extent an<j[
precipitous elevation. They are more than half a mile in
length, and from 200 to 300 feet in height, and are truly a,
tremendous chafm, as denominated by a certain author.
Names of Places. — Kaijie, Cardrona, Glen, Fethen, Glen-
lude, Fingland, Teniel, Bold, and Quair, are probably de-
rived from a Celtic origin. Griefton, Know, and Scrogbank,
gcc. are not of fo remote derivation. Griefton abounds witji
ilates, and has given origin to the name, expreflive of the
colour
Of Trayuain 379
tblour of that ftone. Know is borrowed from its fituation,
being on a fmall' elevation above the courfe of Quair ; and
the name of Scrogbank is borrowed from the farms, being
partly covered with juniper bullies, and other bruih-wood,
which, in the old dialed of the country, received the general
denomination of fcrogs. Though many of the places ftill
retain their Celtic names, the language has been for many
hundred; years, perhaps, loft. The inhabitants, in general*
fpeak the old Scottiih dialed.
State of the Poor in 1782 and 1783. — During this period
of public calamity, the poor of the parifh were liberally af-
filled. Such as were upon the poor's roll, received their
ufual monthly allowance ; befides which, according td their
neceffity, they were ferved with a proportionable quantity of
meal, partly at the expenfe of the heritors, tenants, and kirk-*
feffion, and partly at the reduced price of aid. the ftone *.
Advantages and Dif advantages. — The diftance from coals,
is a difadvantage under which, the whole of the inhabitants
labour, and the ill repair in which the public roads are kept,
makes the difadvantage the greater. The parifh is equally
diftant from lime ; fo that both comfortable accommodation in
the inclemency of winter, and the improvements of agricul-
ture, would be greatly benefited by a proper attention being
paid to them. It is believed, that the ftatute-work not ex-
afted in kind, as was formerly the cafe, but demanded in
money, would be fufficient to make proper roads through the
3 B a parifli,
* The money laid out in the parifh for relief to the poor in that period of
fcarcity, befides the ordinary contributions, was upwards of 40 1. The parilh
adopted their plan of procedure at that time, from the method ufed during the
fcarcity of the year 1740; Since the years 178* and 17S3, the fe^Iiou's contri-
bution* ate more than doubled.
380 Statlftical Account
parifh, though a toll-bar has been, eroded without any VifiWe
advantage within the parifli *.
NUM.
* It is faid, that the road between Edinburgh and Carlifle, would be (hort-
ened about 27 miles, was it to pafs through the parifh ; and report likewife
adds, that a public fpirited gentleman has offered to contribute one half to-
wards building a bridge over the Tweed, which, if it were carried into exe-
cution, would be a coufiderable advantage to the whole parifh and neighbour-
hood, as, in place of going more than 20 miles for coal and lime, it would bring
thefe neceffary articles within lefe than 14 miles of the parifh, and befides open,
ing the intercourse between England and Scotland, produce many other fahi-
tary advantages. The road, fo far as the line of direction is known to me, is
perfectly practicable.
OfNmrn* 38*
NUMBER XXIX.
PARISH of NAIRN.
(County of Nairn, Synoi* of Moray, Prismttery of
Nairn.)
By the Rev. Mr. John Morrison.
Name, Extent, Soil, and appearance.
THE parifli of Nairn derives its name from the river
whteh runs through it, called in Gaelic, " Uifge
Nearne/' or Water of Alders, from the great quantity of
trees and fhrubs of that fpecies of wood which grows upon
its banks. Some are of opinion that Iiiverneame implies the
influx of the weftern, as Inverear, or Findhorn, does that of
the eaftern river into the fea. From E, to W. it meafures
6 miles, and from N. to S. upwards of 8. The figure fome-
what refembles the letter X. In the environs of the town,
•and along the coaft by Delnies, as alfo about Kildrumie, the
foil is light and fandy. On the river fide, fand mixed with
* kind of aorftar or day. The S. fide of the pariflt is rather
of
382 Statijiical Account
of a rich and heavy mould. On the N. fide of the river;
the ground is flat and level ; and on the S. it rifes with a
gradual afcent, terminating at one corner of the parifh in the
hill of Urchany, the only eminence in the parifh deferring
the name of a hill.
Town. — The town is a royal burgh. In conjun&ion with
Invernefs, Forres,, and Fortrofe, it returns a member to ferve
in parliament. At what period it was ere&ed into a royal
burgh, is uncertain *• The immunities of Nairn originally
appear to have been very extenfive ; however, in the lapfe
of time, thefe have been greatly leflened ; fo that the com-
mon good now confifts only of a few moors, which of late
have been let on various leafes, and which, in procefo of
time, will be of confiderable advantage to the community.
There are likewife fome lands, befides the burgage lands,
which pay eques and feu-duties to the town ; therefore, though
the public revenue be now but fmall, yet it is increafing, and
in a few years will be confiderable. The town originally*
being fituated in a different place, probably, from where it
now Hands, was defended by a caftle. As far back as the
time of King Malcolm the Firft, Buchanan informs us that
this caftle was taken by the Danes, and that by them the
cuficdcs or keepers thereof were cruelly ufed. Since that pe-
riod,
* The firft charter, of which any copy is extant, was obtained from James
the Sixth of Scotland, in the year 1 589, being the renewal of one granted by
Alexander, perhaps the firft of that name who fwsryed the Scotch fceptre, as it
is only faid to have been granted by Alexander. There is alfo another charter
by Charles the Second, in confirmation, of the abovementioned one, dated \66ii
The town-council confifts of 17 members, viz. the provoft, 3 bailies, dean of
guild, and treafurer, with 11 cdunfellors, 0 of which make a quorum. The
3 bailies, the dean of guild, and treafurer, in confequence of a late dccifion
•f the Houfe of Peers, muft be letdeut. The whole trades make but one co**
poration.
Of Nairn. 3*3
jriod, however, the fea has made great encroachments, and
the courfe of the river is greatly altered. Where the caftle
then flood, is entirely covered with water, and the river which
then run hard by the caftle, now flows into the Moray Frith
nearly half an EagliJb mile to the £. of that place. Never*
thelefs, there are fome perfons ftill alive, who at ftream or
fpring tides, remember to have feen fQme veftiges of the foun-
dation of the ancient caftle *,
Agriculture, Heritors, Rents, See.-— Improvements in huf-
bandry are here as yet very little known. The fowing of
Clover ^nd rye-grafs feeds, though introduced many years
ago, yet for want of enclofures, turns out to little account.
The field around the town, comprehending fomething more
than 400 acres, is fo remarkably pleafant, tfrat perhaps
there is nothing like if in the north of Scotland. The lands
of which this field is compofed, and which are all contiguous,
were formerly runridge, or acre smd acre alternately ; but
pwing tQ an excambion which took place about 4 years ago,
the different proprietors will now have it in their power, if
they pleafe, to enclofe their lands, which heretofore, conve*.
niently, they could not have dpne. The grounds of a or 3
of the proprietors are now enclofed with ftone and feal fences
or funk fences j and 1 has fubdivided part of his lands in the
•neighbourhood. The ordinary crops railed about the town,
and
* In the town there are a very good inns, comraodionuy fitted op, and well
kept. The one is of a long Handing, and the other, which is a very large
houfe, was lately built by Mr. David fon of Cantray, at his own ezpenfe ; fo
that perfons travelling through this country, may, at this ftage, expect to be
well accommodated. There are, befides thefe inns, fe many alehoufes an^
whiiky mops in the town, that to mention the number, might, to ftrangers,
perhaps appear incredible. It were fincerely to be wifhed, that thefe tippling
houfes were entirely abolUhed, as they are a nui fence in any place, and highly
detrimental to the health and morals of the people.
3&4 Statiflical Account
and throughout the parifh, are barley, oats, and peafe ; po-
tatoes in great quantities are like wife reared. Thefelaft men-
tioned, make up the food of the common people for nearlj
two-thirds of the year. In the neighbourhood of the town>
oats are a very unprofitable crop, feldom yielding the third
feed in return* In the parifh there are about jo farmers.
The farms fmall; few of them exceeding aol., and only 2 a*
mounting to about 5c 1. Sterling a-year. In this parifli are
xo heritors and 1 wadfetter. 4 of the heritors only refide.
The valued rent of the parifh, as taken from the cefs-books
of the county, amounts to 1106I. 8 s. Scotch money, exclu*-
fire of the burgage lands, which may be nearly half as much.
The prefent real rent, is about 1300I. Sterling, befides about
*oo bolls of vidua!. The rent of lands has rifen greatly of
late years, both in the town and country diftrifts of the pa-
rifh. In the immediate vicinity of the town, the acre lets at
35s., a little farther diftant, at from 18s. to 30s., and ia
the country from 5 s. to *cs. the acre. Of old, the greateft
part of the rent was paid in vi&ual ; but now it is moftly all
converted into money. Few cuftoms ot carriages are exalt-
ed. And it is to be hoped, that every remain of feudal Ser-
vitude will foon be entirely aboliflied.
Ecchfiafiical State, Schools, Poor .—Nairn originally was a
menial church attached to the Deanry of Auldearn. Hie
prefent kirk, manfe, and offices, had a partial repair 1789,
and a^e juft now in a tolerable ftate. The ftipend is 5 chal-
ders of vi&ual, and 27 1. of money, exclufive of the fum al-
lowed for communion elements, which is only 5I. ; fo that a|
the ordinary converiion, the ftipend does not exceed 67 1. Ster-
ling. Brodie of Brodie is patron. — The grammar fchool is,
and has been in a very flourifhing condition for maqy years
back* The prefent incumbent, who is extremely attentive
8^
Of Nairn. 385
•and affiduous, has been remarkably fuccefsfal in his line.
The number of fcholars is feldom below 80, and often ex-
ceeds 100. Gentlemen from all quarters of the country, and
fome from England, fend their children to be educated here.
Every branch of education, which now makes fuch a noife in
the academies, is taught at Nairn, in perfection. Several fcho-
lars are annually fent to fome one or other of the uni verfities ;
and many gentlemen who now make a figure in'diftant parts
of the world, and not a few who are an ornament to their
country at home, in the learned profeffions, received their edu-
cation at Nairn within thefe 25 years from the prefent teach-
er. The falary is only a chalder of victual ; and even that
paid in pecks and lippies by the tenants *. — The poor are ex-
tremely numerous, and many of them very indigent indeed.
The roll contains upwards of 150 names ; and therefore, any
relief they can receive, muft be but very inconfiderable.
The funds for their fupport, arife from the church colle&ions
tm the Sabbath days, a fmall mortification, and the intereft
of fome money laid up by the feflion in good years for the
'behoof of the poor. A public diftribution is only made once
a-year ; but they who are greatly reduced, and very needy,
receive occafional fupplies. None, even in 1783, died for
want. Independent of the vidual beftowed by Government,
the feffion advanced a confiderable fam for the wants of the
neceffitous. The weekly colle&ions are but trifling, feldom
exceeding 3 s. Sterling of good copper. Many of thofe who
Vol. XII. 3 C receive
• What a pity, that men of abilities and«fcaradterf who dedicate their time
and labours to the improvement of youth, fhould be fo poorly rewarded, as the
generality of the fchoolm afters of Scotland are ! It is truly melancholy to
think, that grooms and footmen (hould receive fuch extravagant wages, whilft
a body of men, on whofe labours the welfare of fociety doth fo much depend,
(hould, in a manner, be neglected and overlooked. There is alfo in the town
a fchool for girls, with a houfc for the miftrcfs, and iol. of falary.
386 Statiftical Account
receive fome afiiftance at the annual diftribution, work alfo
for their own livelihood. The heritors never have been af-
feffed for the maintenance of the poor.
Population.— According to Dr. Webfter's report, the num-
ber of fouls in 1 755, was 1698. From an accurate lift taken of
the catechifeable perfons in this parifh, in the years 1789 and
1790, by tht prefent incumbent, from 7 years old and up-
wards, the total number amounts to 1780. But as there are
feveral families of Antiburgher Seceders in the parifh, and
fome of the Epifcopal perfuafion, whom the minifter at that
vifitation did not fee, the number of catechifeable perfons, at
the loweft computation, exclufive of the fcholars at the gram-
mar fchool, cannot be below 2000 ; fo that eftimating \ be-
low 7 years of age, the number of fouls in town and parifh
is, at leaft, 2400. From the foregoing lift, it appears, that
in the town there are fome what more than ncc, and in the
country part of the parifh, fomewhat lefs than 1300 fouls. It
is faid, that about 40 years ago, there were only 600 inha-
bitants in the town ; fo that the increafe is very confiderable.
Some time ago, there were a Antiburgher clergymen in this
parifh : One of them is now fettled in Perthfhire. Seceffion,
in this country, is not gaining ground. The proportion of
males to females, is nearly as 30 to 27.
Abstract of Births and Marriages for- 13 years paji.
BixTas.
Marriages.
Males.
Temalct.
Total.
1780
24
H
48
25
i;8i
38
3i
69
18
1782
38
*3
6l
17
»7»3
30
*9
49
17
Birth;
Of Nairn. 387
BlftT«S.
ft
(arriagrs.
Males.
Females.
Tttal.
1784
27
18
45
14
*78j
»4
20
44
17
1786
3=>
39
69
15
1787
*9
22
51
12
1788
»3
36
59
18
1789
21
27
48
. 3t
1790
3*
3°
62
14
1791
30
33
63
*3
1792
22
»3
45
16
Totals,
368"
345
7i3
227
Average of births nearly 55, and of marriages i7f .
Abstract of Births and Marriages for 5 years previous
SlftTM.
Marriaoej<
Mala.
Females.
*753 N
28
16
7
1751
»9
15
12
»75*
3»
29
21
J753
22
35
.21
1754
28
24
24
129
119
%
129
Totals,
248
85
Annually, there are perhaps from 6 to 10 children of fe-
ceding parents, whofe names are not inferted in the feflion
records. No regifter of deaths* In the town, there are a-
3d • bout
388 Statiftical Account
bout 16 merchant (hops ; only about 6 or 8 any thing con-
fiderable.
Fs/bings, Boats, lie. — The falmon fifhing on the water of
Nairn is the property of Lord Findlater, and of Mr, Davidfoft
of Can tray ; and alfo a ft ell fifhing at the mouth of the river*
Thefe fiihings are let to tackfmen (36 1. each), two in num-
ber, who drag or draw the river and ftell fiihings alternately,
or day about. James Brodie, Efq. of Brodie, has a ftell fifh-
ing on the E. fide of the river mouth. The greateft part of
the falmon caught in this parifh is carried to Findborn, and
fold there to a company of merchants from Aberdeen, who
cure and export it either to the London or a foreign market*
There are 6 fifhjng boats in the town, and a in the country
part of the parifh, in each of which about 7 men are employ-
ed. Formerly there were from H> to 22 boats * but on ac-
count of greater encouragement, feveral of the fifhermen, par-
ticularly young lads, have removed to other parts of the
kingdom. Haddocks, Jkate, cod, flounders, and fome ling,
Sec. are caught in the Murray Frith. Some herrings are like-
wife, in the feafon, found on the coaft ; but for this lafl fpe-
cies of fifh, the fifhermen mud frequently go as far to the W.
as the Ferry of Keflbck, and even to Beauly. In this Frith,
fifh of all kinds are much fcarcer fince 1782; previous to
that year, they were caught in abundance, juft oppofite
to the town, but fince that period, the feamen are fome-
times obliged to go to the coaft s of Sutherland and Caithnefs
for them *.
Roadr
• Prices of Prtvifionj, Labour ; b?r. — Within thefe 30 years back, the price
of provifions hat rifen almoft beyond belief. Moft articles are tripled in value,
-many quadrupled, and (banc far exceed that proportion. Mutton, beef; and
f*rk, which, at the forementioned period,, feldom drew more tjian z penny a
poundV
Of Nairn. 38$
Roads and Bridges. — The great military road leading from
Forres to Fort-George, is in very good repair. The Highland
road from Nairn to the Bridge of Dulfie is remarkably bad.
Statute labour is not commuted, and therefore cannot be fup-
pofed to be fo well executed. The only bridge in the parifl*
worth mentioning, is that of Nairn. It was built in the year
1631 or 1632, as appears from an infcription on a (tone of
the bridge, now fallen into the river. The infcription is,
" Guliclmus Rofe de Clava." The motto, " Non eft falus,
nifi in Chrifto." " Soli Deo Gloria." In the year 1781,
nearly one half of the bridge- was carried off by a flood or
fpeat in the river. In that fituation it continues to this day ;
and were it not owing to the attention of the magiftrates and
council, who have made a temporary repair with timber, on
many occafions, the river would be impaffable. It ia exceed-
ingly ftrange, that an affair of fuch public utility ihould have
been fo long negleded and overlooked ; for furely it is well
known* to every traveller, that a bridge over the water of
Nairn is much more neceffary kthan either over the Spey or
the Findhorn, becaufe the two laft mentioned rivers have efta-
bliihed paflage-boats. It is therefore earneftly to be hoped,
that Government will foon take a grievance of fuch public
notoriety
pound, now fell at an average from 3 <L to 4 d. the pound. Fiih, even 95 year*
ago, could be had commonly at 3 d. the fcore of haddocks, 26 to the fcore, now *
they commonly fetch from 18 d. to, 2 s. and fometimes 2 s, 6 d. a fcore. Hens
fell at 6 d. and 7 d. each ; ducks ditto ; and fo on. Men fcrvants hired during
the year, receive from 4 1. to 6" 1., with victuals in the houfe. Lads and boys in
proportion. Maid fervants from 12 s. to 20 s, in the half year. Labourers en-
gaged by the day receive different wages at different feaibns of the year. In
fpring, fummer, and harveft, a man receives commonly is. a-day, without meat ;
in winter, from 8 d. to 19 d. ditto. At cafling peats, women get 6"d., and in
harveft 8 d. without meat.
A
390 ' Statiflical Account
notoriety into confideration, and grant aid for building a new
bridge at this place.
Antiquities, \£c. — On the N. fide of the hill of Geddes are
to be feen the veftiges of an old edifice, about 26 yards long,
and nearly half as broad. It is called Caijleil Fionlah, i. e.
Finlay's Caftle. It has been built with run, or burnt lime,
and furrounded at fome yards diftance with a ditch. The
ditch is drawn round the middle of the detached hill, or rifing
ground on which the houfe wa9 built, and is ftill very vifible.
At the bottom of this little hill, on the S. E. there appears to
have been a funk, or draw-well for the ufe of the caftle. Even
tradition does not fay by whom, or for what purpofe this e-
difice was ere&ed. A little to the E. on the fide of the fame
hill of Geddes, are the remains of the Caftle of Rait, built
probably by Rait of that ilk, but at what period is uncertain.
It was, for fome time, the refidence of one of the Cummines ;
and confidering the time at which it feems to have been built,
it appears to have been a houfe of great ftrength. A little
below this caftle, is a place called Knock-na-gillan, i. e. the
bill where the young men or lads were killed. Here, it is
faid that 18 of the Mackintoshes were deftroyed by the Cum-
mines, who then lived at Rait, on account of fome grudge
that fubfifted between the families. At the place of Eaftcr
Geddes, are the remains of an old chapel, with a burying
ground around it. In this chapel is the burying place of the
family of Kilravock ; and here they have been interred for
many generations back, perhaps ever fince the flofes came to
this part of Scotland. How long the Rofes were in pofleflion
cf the lands of Geddes, previous to the marriage of the Laird
of Geddes with Mary de Bofco, lady and heirefs of Kilravock,
cannot now, with certainty, be ascertained, as the writs of the
family relative to that eftate were deftroyed in the cathedral
churc
Of Nairn. 391
church of Elgin, \*rhen it was confumed by fire. Lady Kil-
ravock, and her huftmnd Hugh Rofe of Geddes, obtained a
charter (pofterior to the lofs of the writs above mentioned)
from King John Baliol in the year 1293, confirming to them,
and to their heirs, the lands of Geddes and Kilravock *.
Advantages and Dif advantages. — The climate here is re*
markably good. No difeafes peculiar to the place. Rheu-
matifms and nervous complaints are perhaps the moil preva-
lent. This town was, of old, greatly renowned for the cheap-
nefs of all forts of vivres. All the neceffaries • of life, till
within about thefe 20 years, fold very low. An excellent
peat-mofs, at little more than a mile in diflance from the
town, was a great inducement for bringing numbers of peo-
ple
• Concerning the family of Kilravock, it would be needlefe, on this occafion,
to fay any thing particular. The figure they have made in the world, in vari-
ous departments in Hie, their talte for the fine art% for literature, for politeneiv
hofpitality, &c. is too well known to require the pen of a panegyrift. Geddes
probably derives its name from Gee Id a, a Pietifh Saint, to whofe memory, oa
this fpot, it feems a place of worlhip was dedicated.
The charter of foundation of the Chapel of Eafter Geddes, part of the walla
of which is ftill extant, and granted by Hugh Rofe of Kilravock, bears date
I473. This chapel was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and endowed with 5L
Scots of ftipend, together with a fraall croft, as a glebe, and on which to erect a
manfe. The prieft or chaplain was to perform daily offices, not only for the
ibul of the founder, but alfo for the fouls of his pre dece (Tors, and of his heirs and
facceflbrs for ever. The bull of privileges for faid Chftpel is dated at Rome,
atfth April 1475, in the 4th year of Pope Sextus the Fourth.
The lite of the Conftabulary is ftill vifible in the town of Nairn. The Lajnh
of Calder were, for afeiies of time, high conftables, and heritable fheriffs of the
county. Notice is taken of the Kebback-ftone, in the ftatiftical account of the
pariih of Arderfier. In the N. £. Corner of this parifh is a place called the
King's Steps. Even tradition doth not fay on what account this royal appella-
tion was affixed to this fpot of ground. There is an excellent quarry of freeftone
below flood mark, eafily wrought, and of no contemptible quality. There are
fome chalybeate fpri&gs of water, but not of fuch confequence as to deferve a
particular defcription.
39a Statijiical Account
pie to refide here. But the prices of provifions of every kind
having rifen greatly of late, and the mofs being almoft entire-
ly exhaufted, have contributed to increafe the number of men-
dicants who infeft the place, and added confiderably to the
poor's roll. B«fides the bridge before mentioned, there are
two other great difadvantages, which bear hard upon the town
and country, and thefe are9 the want of fome manufa&ure,
and the want of a pier. Both thefe might, it is fuppofed, be
removed at no very confiderable expenfe, and to the great e-
molument of Nairn and the neighbourhood. By altering the
prefent courfe of the river, many people fay that a pier might
be built, capable of receiving {hips of confiderable burthen.
Were a fpirit of improvement once introduced, either a linen
or a woollen manufa&ure might be eftablifhed, which, if well
conducted, would add greatly to the advantage of proprietors
of (hares, and to the country in general. The number of peo-
ple who apparently want employment in the town and its
vicinity, is absolutely incredible. If induftry, which in a
great meafure feems to be dormant, were aroufed, there is
little doubt but Nairn might become* a flourifhing place.
Mifcellamous Obfervations.— -The people, in general, are
about the middle fize, affable enough in their manners, with
a few exceptions, pretty regular in their attendance on the
ordinances of divine inftitution, and rational, without an over-
heated zeal, or too much coldnefs in their religion. Thofe
of the Eftabliflied Church, fome few of the Episcopalian per-
fuafion, and the Antiburgher Seceders, Hve in good terms
with one another, * Few perfons from this pariih have beeo
criminallj
* Unfortunately, however, this fpring two lads were tried and condemn**
at Ifirernefs for (hop-breaking and theft One of them was hanged. It *5 ****'
Jy much to be wifhed that his fate may prove a warning to others, to avoid the
Of Nairn. 393
criminally tried before the Court of Justiciary for many
years.
V01..XII; iti NUM-
like crimes. The other youftg man (brother to the lad who was executed), has
been reprieved. The writer of this account is forry to obferve, that petty
thefts are not fo ftvefely curbed by parents .in the lower ranks in life, as they*
ought to be ; and he is alio forry to fay, that the fatal effects of fpiritoos li-
quors become more apparent every day. Nairn is remarkably well calculated
for fea bathing. For the accommodation *f perfons who require the benefit of
the fait bath, Mr. James Brandex, ooe of the innkeepers, has a bathing machine
provided.
394 Stat$kol Account
NUMBER XXX.
PARISH of MONKTOWN and PRESTIGE.
(Couctt of Ayr, Synod of Glasgow and Ayr, Presby-
tery of Ayr.)
By tie Rev. Andrew Mitchell, D. D.
Nam/, Extent.
THE parifli receives its name froni the manor-place of
Monktown, which, before the Reformation, is report-
ed to have been a religious convent pertaining to the abbacy
of Paifley, from which the village, and many of the farms
had their names. This manor and barony have now the'
name of Orangefield, and had formerly a jurifdi&ion of re-
gality*.
the^
f * The pariih formerly extended to the river Ayr, and comprehended the pre-
tent pariih of Newtown, which, for the accommodation of the inhabitants of
hat part, had * church erected* that' was ufed as a Chapel of Eafe, for a years,,
and an ordained mimfter, preceding 1779* At that period, the community of
Newtown?
Of Monktown and FreJIick* 395
The pfcrifii, at prefent, extends in length from the N.
^here it adjoins the pariin of Dundonnald, and Symington.
*ipoh the N. E., ji miles towards the S. where it ii bound-
ed bj the parifh of Newtown ind St. Quivo*. From the E.
inhere it borders upon Tarbolton and Criigie, $ miles iA
breadth; but in •thet parts, beyond ihe Pow-Bdfn, fcatte
above half that meafnre. Oh the W;, it is bounded by the
Frith of Clyde, oppofite to the illand of Arran. The village
and church of Monktown are diftant from the fea about *
mile. The profped is agreeable and pleafant, and ihe air isu
Jubrious. Seldom any epidemical difeafes prevail, but fuch
as are common. The village contains about 34 dwelling-
houfes, and 46 families, and is interfered by 4 toll-road* ;
pne leading from Ayr to Irvine, another to Kilmarnock and
jGlafgow, and the third to Tarbolton and St. Quivox.
Church of MonttoMin, Surgb o/Preflicl, &c — The church
of Monktown is an old fabric ; no perfon alive can give any
account when it was built •• The burgh of Preftick con-
jDi tains
t
Newtown purchafed from Sir William Majrwell, then patron, die right of e*
iecting their own minifter ; and with the content of the heritors of Monktown,
the Lords Commiffioners of Kirks and Teinds, erected the burgh into a feparate
parifh, and the church wan pat upon the eftablilkment. The freeholders of the
burgh are fubje&ed to the payment of the minifters ftipends, which they now
raife from the rents of the feats. Before this disjunction and erection took place ^
the inhabitants of Newtown were diftant from the paiiih church of Monktown,
about 4 Engltfh miles, and were the moft numerous part of the pariih, amount-
ing to between 800 and 000 perCbns. The raluation* of the bufgh being finally
fhoy had only a feat in Monktown church that could contain 13 or 14 peribns
at moft. They are ftill liable to all public burdens, and future augmentations
of (Upends, as heritors of the parifh of Monktown and Preftick, and pay ttyeir
ufual proportion of ftipend.
• The fide walls are 3}, and the weft gable 3 feet 10 inches thick ; and (till
ftauds, though bended\ off the perpendicular on one fide, and rent in the weft
gable. The roof is moftly oak. It has ftood fioce the Reformation, and. is pro-i
' bably.
39<? Stalijiical Account
t^is about 66 dwelling-houfes, and 266 perfons, 53 of whopf.
sure under 7 years of age *. There are 36 freeholders in the
burgh, whofe freeholds, at prefent, are reckoned, at an ave-
rage, at 593. yearly, wit]} a privilege of pafturage for 72
foums of fbeep upon the common, 5 fheep being reckoned to
a foum. Sometimes poinds are driven and executed at the
crofc pf Preftick. A freeman, w)ien incarcerated, cannot be
confined
baldly the fame Jrirk that was in the time of Sir William Wallace, Warden of
Scotland, when the cbnteft about the freedom and independence of the Scbttifh
Grown commenced, under' Edward I., 'and continued for about the fpace of 40
years. , Wallace is reported to' have1 had a remarkable dream near this kirk,
where Sir Ronald Crawford of Croiby, his uncle, fheriff of the county, had
appointed a convention before that fatal Juftice Ayre, held by the Engltfh in
the totfn of Ayr. After performing his devotions in the church, he fell afleep
in fome place 'nigh to it, and had a delineation of his future fortune in a vi*
fionary fcheme upon his imagination ; and upon his awakening, had a particular
interpretation of it, by a man whom he found upon the fpot. The whole, is
related in the Poem of Blind Harry, in his 7th Book, who copied *he facts
from the hiftory of Wallace's life, written in Latin by Mr. John Blair, Wallace's]
intimate friend and Companion. k' * •■ ]
*' The charter erecting it into a free burgh of barony, was renewed and con*
firmed by James VI., as adminiftrator for his (on, Henry Duke of Rothfay, Earl
of Kyle, Carrfek, and Cnnninghame; Lord of the Ifles; Prince Steward of Scot*
land, at Holyroodhoufe, 19th June 1600, in the 33d year of his reign. The I
narrative of the charter exprefcly fays, that it was known to have been a free |
burgh of barony beyond the memory of man, for the fjpace of '6*17 years before j
its renewal ; but there are no papers tofides the charter,- that can instruct it to j
1?e fo ancient. It was the head burgh of barony of the bailiery of Kyle Stew- \
art, when the county was divided into 3 districts, Kyle, Carrick, and Cun-
ningham*. Kyle was fubdtvided into King's Kyle, and Kyle 'Stewart : the laft
extended from the river Ayr to the river Irvine ; the former from the river Ayr
to the river Doon, and had Ayr for its head burgh. Camden fays, that the
Stewart of Kyle Stewart had his refidencc at the Caftle of Dundoonald. Bf
their charter, they have a right to choofe* provoft and a bailies, with coon-
fellors, and to grant franchifes for feveral trades ; to bold a weekly market, and
r fair in the month of December, at the feaft of St: Nicolas, which is the 6"th
of that month, according to the Bopilh kalesdar ; but moft of thefe privileges)
are fallen into difufe.- * •
Of Monktown and Brtftick 35^
.confined with locked doors ; but if he comes out, he lofes bU .
freedom, unlefs liberated by the judicial fentence of the ma-
giftrates. None can fell their freedom but to the community,
lyho have power to fell it to whom they pleafe, upon paying
the agreed price. Males and females equally fucceed to the
freeholds, in which their charter differs from that of Nevr-
town, renewed much about the fame time. The kirk of
Preftick ftill (lands, and is an old fabric that fubfifted in the
time of Popery. The walls are thick, and fupported with (tone?
buttrefies at the £. end ; is diftant from the fea lefs than a
quarter of a mile, and much expofcd to the ftorms. From it,
there is a beautiful profped of the Crag of Ailfa, the Heics
of Ayr, and the Frith of Clyde, where the fliips from Green-
ock, Saltcoats, and Irvine, are frequently paffing outward
and inward bound ; and it ferves as a land-mark for mips at
fea. Divine fervice was performed in this church before the
disjunction and the ere&ion of Newtown, every third Sunday,
£pr the mod part ; but the burgh of Newtown having ob-
tained a feparate ereftion for themfelves, the neceflky is fu-
perfeded, Preftick church being no more than 1 Englifli mile
from Monktown, and the pariih church at prefent being as
centrical as could be well devifed.
Patron, Stipend. — Patron, Robert Reid, Efq. of Adamton.
The ftipend of Monktown, Preftick, and Crofty, confifts of
50 bolls bear, 29 bolls 2 firlots meal, 25 1. 5 s. 3-rrd. Ster-
ling, to which the Lords Commiffioners of Kirks and Teinds
have added, by decreet of augmentation, lately obtained, 4
chalders, half meal, half bear, with 5 1. Sterling for commu-
nion elements, belides manfe and glebe.
Soil. — The foil of Monktown and Preftick is, in general,
fruitful, diverfifyed in its quality. Upon the E. and higheft
part
Jgg Statiflical Account
3>art of it, it is an earthy clay, iri the middle, deep and loamjf,
and, as it approaches the fea, is fandy and benty downs, that
anfwer for the pafturing of young cattle ; and, from faltnefs of
the water, and warmth of the climate; judged conducive to
■the recovery of weak flieep. Snow and froft are of Ihort de-
ration in the winter, and the pafture open. The grounds are
moftly enclofed with ditch and hedge in the Monktown part
of the parifh, and properly fubdivided into parks, with ex- m
tehfive belts of planting. In Preftick, the enclofures are few,
the foil fandy, and the tenure by which they hold their free-
doms unfavourably for fuch improvement, being fubjecT: to m
revolution every 19 years, when, by a rule now eftablifhed,
they are to caft lots for the refpe&ive freedom each freeman
is to poffefs. The foil is better toward the •&., where it join$
the Newtown loch and St. Quivox. The lower part next the
village produces crops of rye, oats, and bear, which aye goo<|
in wet feafons. The foil there is found good for crops of poT
tatoes, and might produce turnip. The moil of the enclofiiig
and planting has been made within thefe 60 years, and there
are people ftill alive, who remember when it began. The
ground rents paid by the tenants, at prcfent, are generally
from 25 s. to 35 s. and 40 s, the acre, and fome pay more.
Grafs lets at 21 s. 25 s. and fome 30s. the acre. The foil be-
ing light rich mould, naturally runs into grafs and white
clover, when fallow. Before encloflng, fome people remem-
ber, that the higheft rent for croft land was ie merks Scots ;
and outfield 2 s. 6d. or 3 s. 4d. Sterling.
^Agriculture, &c. — The cultivation is ufually 2 years oats,
then bear or barley laid down twith grafs-feejs, fometimes
peafe and beans, and afterward a crop of oatst When the
ground is laid down with grafs-feeds, or, after cutting 1 or
2 years, in hay, it ufually lies iri ley 4 or 6 years. The
farmery
Of Monktevon and Preftici. 39$
farmers generally ufe 3 hprfes, with a plough after the Eng^
Jifli form, and fc^ne ufe qnly % horjea. The ufual tixne 0/
lowing, is about the piddle of March, and ginning of
April j and bear or barley f$oat the middle of Af aj $ rein-
ing in Auguit and September y h^y harvefi in June and July.,
The maaiAe ufed bj ttye farmers ne$r th$ ft a, who hare the
privilege, is fea ware, reniark$l* Sox raiipg crops of fowi}
grafs, and crppf of bear pr barley ; but does- not meliorate,
above 2 year* : They $b ^ ^W> ?* F^iqh they hjive n<>
quarries, but buy and driye at the $$gnce of 3 or 4 xaijes*
There axe not above 3 freeftone quarries in the p^rifli, whiclj
increafes the price of building connderably : and as yet^ no
coal-mines have been found ; but there are appearances that
indicate that fuch may be found Jn proeefs of time, asd ^ill
undoubtedly turn out to great advantage, as lying near the/
fea. The quantity of natural wood, is 36 acres, befides tyflf
plantations.
There are no rivers in the psrifh; but there are 3 rivulets:
%. The Pow-burn, over which thejre is one bridge, on the
to^l-road leading from Monktown. to Ayr, and another lately
begun to be c reeled on the road to St. Quivox and Tarbolton.
The other a rivulets are called Rumbler-burn, and Fall-burn,
which all run info the fea, and in fummer are moftly <|ry*
^t prefent, there is only x mill in the parith for grinding
grainy and another for flax,* kept by the feme miller. Fe\ij
are aftri&ed to it, the farmers being at liberty to carry their
grain to any mill they pteafe, without being onprejkd witl^
multures, which ^re a gr^at diTcoiuragenjent to agriculture.
The ufual produce after n^ing oa{s, is i99 iJb and %o
geeks the Winchester boll, now the ftandard meafurc of thi$
country. The amount of oats milled by the different farmer*
in Monktown and Prcftick, by an account given by them*
£plye£ in the year 17919 was 131 5 bolls y and bear fold, and
otherwise*
.. 46b Stutiftical Account
©therwife difpofed of, 399 bolls. The oats, bear, and barley/
are reckoned to be of the beft quality, and bring a high pried
in the market There is little wheat fown, though in motf
places the foil is fafficiently ftrong, and wlten fown, produces
good crops. The culture of turnips is only beginning to be
introduced. One fanner has fowed 6 ot 7 acres? and finds
his account in it, by feeding black cattle for the market, and
preparing the foil for bear and wheat, and likewife fending
them to the market of Ayr. Potatoes are fhoftly planted for"
family ufe, and reckoned to amount to about 23 or 24 acres?
in the whole pariih at prefent, about 13 m Monktown, and
zo in Preftick.
Population* — According to Dr. Webfle^s report; the num-
ber of fouls in 1755, was XI^3« IQ Monktown there are 6
heritors, 3 of whom rtffide.
Examinable perfons,
J*7
Average of baptifms,
a*
Below that age, - -
tjd
Marriages,
7
Deaths,
10
717
The ptefent calculation will not correfpond td Dr. Web-
fter*s, as that account was given to him before the disjundion
and ere&ion of Newtown. That the population is greatly
incr&fed, cattnot be doubted, as the farms have been divided
into finall proportions, and new farm houfes built. There
have been built, 8 new houfes in Monktown village, and 4'
new farm houfes, befides a cotton houfes for hand jennies, x
of them for 9, the other for 6, which employs a confiderable
number of hands within thefe few years.
Trades
Of Monltown and PrtfticL 401 .
In Monktowh, are
Houfe-wrights, - % Tailors, - - %
<Jart and plough wrights, 2 Cooper, X
Weaver, 1 Excife officer, - I
Mafon, - 1 Tobacco manufacturers, a.
Shoemakers, - 4 Public houfes, - 5
Blackftnith, \ Jeuars, - - ' 16
In. Prestick, are
Weavers, 16 Blackfmith, - - 1
Stockingmakers, - a Public houfes, - %
Wrights, 4 New built houfes within
Mafon, ■* 1 thefe 7 or 8 years, 13
Farm houfes in the whole parifh 37, including 4 gentle*
mens feats, who all have farms in their own hands.
Rent. — The valued rent of the whole pariih, including
Newtown, is 1755I. 18s. Scotch money. The real rent of
Monktown and Preftick, is fuppofed to be between i8ool«
and 2000 1*
School. — There is an eftablifhed fchool for teaching englim*
writing, arithmetic, and church mufic. The falary is very
fmall, being only 100 1. Scots, with a houfe and garden*
40 fcholars ufually attend for 3 quarters of the year ; the
other quarter being diminiJJied by the feed-time and har-
veft work. The wages for teaching are very fmall, being
is. 6d. a-quarter for reading, 2s« for writing, 3s. for arith-
metic and church mufic *.
Vol.^XIL 3 E Antiquities,
+ Wages, Poor, fitc^Men fenrrtbts wages are from 81. 8 s. to oL} and fome
zoL
V
4P? Statiftical Account
Antiquities, £tc. — At Low Monktown hill, 3 quarters of a
jnile from the church, near the farm houfe, fituated upon a
rifing ground, a large done is placed. Upon digging for ma-
terials for making a road, feveral urns containing human
bones were found. There is no tradition how they were de-
pofited, if it was not in the time of the Romans, when Ju-
lius A gricola commanded, who was faid to haye Tent Roman
forces into that part of "the country, with the view of in-
vading Ireland. * About a quarter of a mile £. from the
church, upon a rifing ground, (lands a handfome fepulchraj
monument,, erected to the memory of Governor M'Crae,
formerly governor of Madras in the Eaft Indies, which is
now the burying-place of Mr. Dalrymple of Orangefield.
Upon the eftate of Ladykirk, belonging to Alexander Gardi-
ner, Efq. there are fbme remains of a chapel, dedicated to
the Virgin Mary, called in old writings, Ladykirk in Kyle,
fituated in the common pafture of the lands of Adamtown,
being a part of that barony belonging formerly to the family
of Blair, who had the right of patronage in the times of
Popery. The building was a fquare, and turrets placed up^
6n each corner ; the chapel placed in the middled One of the
turrets ftill remains, which fome time ago was repaired. The
whole is enclofed in the garden at prefent. When digging,
"L many
xol. Steri. yearly : Women's wages are from 3I. 10s. to 4I. ditto : Day-labourers
are is. a-day; and in harveft from 14 d. to i6d.,and in winter lod.'from Mar-.'
tinmas to New Yeai's-day : A mafon's wages are from is. 8d. to ss. a-day : A
Wright's wages from' z s. 4<i. to i s. 6"d. : And a tailor's wages Iod. and his vic-
tuals, a-day. Men's fliocs from 6 s. to 6*s. 6d., women's 45. 6*d. and 5 s. — The
poor's funds of the parifb, amount to 130I. Sterling, in ftock, betides collections.
The poor upon the box, at prefent, are 12, who receive moftly 3s. a-month,
anl more when exigencies require. This, with their own induftry, is judged a
Sufficient fupply : none are allowed to beg. The yearly collections at the
church, amount to about azL or 23I. Sterling. The yearly diftributiozu to JU
bout the fame Aim.
* Of Monhtown and Prefiickl 4°i
many human bones were found, as probably ^ the' burying-
place was nigh to it. There is a beautiful profpeflt from it
of the country around, and the weftern fea. Nigh Preftick^
upon the toll- road to Ayr, is fituated Kincafe, or Hang's Cafe,
a charitable inilitution in the time of Po£erjr *.
3E2 NUM.
• The traditional account is, that King Robert Bruce gave a certain terri-
tory of land for maintaining S perfons that were affii&ed with the leprofy,
which was denominated God's loan to Robert, and now Robert's loan, general-
ly pronounced loans, lying in the pariih of Dundonnald, out of which are paid
64 bolls of meal, and 8 merks Scots, with fomc threaves of ft raw for thatch-
ing the hofpital, payable out of other lands in the parifh of St. i)uivcx, being
S bolls meal, and 1 merk, to each yearly ; and if there fhould be but one, he
has a right to the whole. Sir Thomas Wallace of Craigie, and his ancestors » '
were in ufe to prefent thefe perfons, and caufc an inquiry to be made into their
cafe before they were received. As no difeafes of that defcription appear, per-
fons labouring under difeafes thought incurable, or in indigent circumftauces,
are admitted to the charity. The right of prefcntation was fume time ago ibid,
along with the eftate of Craigie, by judicial faie, and purchased by the towa
of Ayr.
404 Statijlical Account
NUMBER XXXI.
PARISH of WEST KILBRIDE,
(Count* of Ayr, Synod of Glasgow anu Ayr, Preset*
tery of Irvine.)
By tie Rev. Mr. Arthur Ouohtrrsow.
Name, Extent, Surface^ &c.
IN the Monkifh 4fges, it was very common for religious
reclufcs, to give names to the places where thej either
chofe to fix their folitary refidence, or to have their remains
codtgned after death. From thence, the name of this pariih
is obvioufly derived, being compounded of the Gaelic word
•• Kile," a burial-place, or the Latin, " Cella," and Bridget,
the name of the titular female Saint of the place. This pa-
riih is of moderate extent, ftretching, in length, from the
mouth of the Frith of Clyde, direfily N. along the fhore,
for above 6 finglifli miles. From the promontory of fortin-
crofs,
Of Weft Kilbridt. 40^
Cfof3, to the remoteft inland parts over the hills, it is about
3i Englifih miles broad ; in other places, between 2 and 3
tailes. It is bounded upon the whole of the W. by the fea
and Frith of Clyde. It comprehends in it, the leffer ifland
of Cumbray, which is feparated from the mam land, by a
found 3 mile* over. Upon the rnoft eminent part of this
ifland, a light-houfe was ere&ed, about the year 1750, which
hath proved of great benefit to the trade ; but, from its too
lofty fituation, it is often fo involved in clouds, as not to be
perceptible, or, but very dimly feen. The managers have
therefore judged it neceflary %o ereft another upon a lower
ftation, upon which is to be placed a refle&ing lamp. This
will not be liable to the inconvenience attending the other,
and will afford a more certain direction to veflels navigating
the Frith in the night time. This work is now executing,
and will foon be completed*
The whole of this parifh is a part of that mountainous
track of country, which, commencing at the fouthern boun-
dary of it* continues all the way to Greenock. It therefore
prefents every where, a broken, unequal furface, rifing in
many places into high hills, inter fperfed with a number of
' romantick rivulets, and fome of them green to their very
furhmits. From the tops of thefe hills, a profpefl prefents
itfelf, which, for variety and grandeur, is fcarcely to be c
quailed. At one view, the eye takes in the broken land and
fmall founds formed by the iflands of Arran, Bute, the two
Cumbrays, and the coafts of Cowal and Cantire ; the exten-
five coaft of Carrick, from Ayr to Ballintrae \ a wide expand-
ed Frith, with the rock of Ailfa rifing majeftic in its very
bofom ; the ftupendous rocks and peak of Goatfield in Ar-
ran ; while the diftant cliffs of Jura are feen juft peeping over
the whole, in the back ground. Such a landfcape is exceed.
inglf
406 Statijtica! Account.
ingly rare, and has always been particularly pleafing to Aran*
gers.
Climate, &c. — From the vicinity^of this diftrift to the feat
the air is generally moift, and the climate variable ; great
quantities of rain, falling in the fpring and autumn, which
proves a considerable hinderance to farming operations. Not-
withftanding thefe circumftances, the inhabitants are for the
moft part healthy, few difeafes being epidemical among them ;
and many of them live to a great age. An example of un-
common longevity oceurrcd fome years ago, of a man in the
lefler iflaird of Cumbray, who died at the advanced period of
101. The difeafes moft common, are the rheumatifm, arid
what is called the baftard peripneumony, which moft fre-
quently attacks old people. Paifies too, fometimes occur.
And here it may be proper to obferve, that all the different
kinds of nervous difeafes, are found to prevail more in coun-
tries fituated upon the more, than in inland parts. Whether
this is to be afcribed to. fome peculiar quality in the air, that
predifpofes to thefe nervous affe&ions, there being no mate*
rial difference in the manner of living, the writer will not
take upon him to determine. A very malignant fpecies of
quinfy, vulgarly called the clofing, in fome feafons, proves
fatal to children of between 3 and 5 years of age. It makes
its appearance in the fpring and autumn, and baffles every re-
medy. The fmall-pox, when they are of a virulent kind,
carry off a good many j and hitherto, all efforts to introduce
inoculation have failed. No arguments can overcome the ftt-
perftitious opinions of the peoplef or their dread of the po-
pular odium.
Soil, Agriculture, &c— As this quarter abounds fo much
in hills, the foil, upon the whole, mull be poor, and in many
places
Of Weft Kilbridu 407
places wet and fpringy : but to this general defcription there
are exceptions ; and there might be ftill more, were any juftice
done to the land, or proper attempts made, with judgment
and per fevering induftry, to overcome or alleviate its natu-
ral disadvantages. The 3 following foils are the moil com-
mon ; A very light, dry, fandy foil, with a mixture of good
earth 5 the mofly i and a ftrong tijly clay. Thefe different foils,
point out to the intelligent farmers, what method of cultiva-
tion they would require. It is agreed, that compoft of dung,
eafth, and lime, would fuit the firft mentioned foil ; and that
when laid down richly, it would produce excellent crops of
clover and other grafles ; yet this hath never been fufficiently
tried : and until- of late years, the farmers in this part of the
country, who had adopted the very worft practice of the old
hufbandry, remained utterly unacquainted with the method
of laying down land in this manner. However, nature has
done a great deal for them here, by affording a fpontaneous
manure, which is well adapted to the light land, and, in a
great meafure, fuperfedes the neceffity of any other, and that
is fea-weed, which is thrown in in fuch vail quantities by
the winter gales, that the people have only to be at the pains
to lead it out and lay it upon their fields. This manure,
from its hot ftimulating nature, is of quick operation, and
when aided by a moid fummer, and refrefhing mowers,
throws up bountiful crops. For many years, this was the
only manure ufed xor general cultivation ; and it was applied
to all foils indifcriminately, to which it could be tranfported ;
and where this was not practicable, the land was left without
any other means of improvement, than what it derived from
mere reft ; any little dung made upon the farm, being ufed
for railing potatoes and bear. The method of management
for the outfield land of fuch farms as lie without the reach
of fea-weed, is to let it reft for 4 years j then plough it for a
4 fcourging
40$ Stattfitcal Account
fcourging crops of oats ; then let it reft as before ; next fue«
ceed the 2 ploughings; and fo on, in this rotation.
For the other 2 foils mentioned, lime is certainty exceed*
ing proper ; but very ftrong prejudices were long entertained
againft it. When the prefent incumbent entered to his charge,
there Was not an ounce of lime laid upon land within the
parifh, and no reafoning could prevail with the farmers to
try it : they pleaded their ignorance of its operation, the me-
thod of applying it, and the great expenfe attending the con-
veyance of it from a diftant kiln. But, whether from ob-
lerving the great advantages arifing from it in neighbouring
parifhes, where it hath been long introduced, or that they
are fubjefted to certain regulations by the late leafes, or
from the more enterprifing fpirit of fome new proprietors, a
mighty change has taken place in the people's ideas with re-
gard to lime, in confequence of which, vaft quantities of it
have been laid upon the land within thefe 3 years j greater in-
deed, in proportion to the extent of the parilh, than any
other within the county. This gives ground to hope, that a
better method of hu(bandry, though yet in its infancy, will,
in a few years, from perfeverance, and the influence of a,
laudable example, become more general *,
The
* The prejudices of the people, are not the only hinderance to the progrefc
qE agricultural improvements in this parifh. One local disadvantage which it
labours under, mull have contributed much to retard them, and that is, that
there is neither coal nor lime-ftone to be found within itfelf, though pains have
teen taken to difcover them, and attempts made to fink pits for that purpofe.
£jid what renders the only expedient for fupplying this defeel, more erobarraf-
fing is, the duty upon coals carried coaftways, and even to places within the
precin&s of the fame port, and where the coal-works are fituated. This hath
difcoaraged farmers from bringing lime-ftone by water, from Arran, and the
greater Cumbray, where it is to be had in abundance, becaufe, though it might
be procured from thofe places, at no great charge, there is no coal to burn i{
with, but what mult be fetched at an extraordinary expenfe* The barbarous
polk*
OfWeJi Kilbride. 409
The crops chiefly raifed in this pariih, are oats and bear :
the quantity produced from an acre, is from 5 to 7 bolls. In
ftrong clean land, dax fucceeds well, and, for a reaTon which
will hereafter be mentioned, the attention of the people hath
been much turned to the cultivation of this plant, and great*
er quantities of flax are raifed in Kilbride, than in any neigh-
bouring did rid ; it is moil commonly fown after potatoes.
The foil being peculiarly adapted to potatoes, they produce
luxuriantly. Wheat is feldom fown here, and no attempts
hitherto made to introduce it into general practice, have fuc-
ceeded to expe&ation. Beans and peafe are not much culti-
vated ; for, befides that, the foil in moft places is reckoned
too light for them : in a climate where the weather and fea-
fons are fo variable, they are, not without reaion, confidered
as a hazardous crop. One circumftance, which ought not to
be omitted, in defcribing the ftate of agriculture in this pa-
rifh, is, the improved tafle fome proprietors have discovered,
of late, in the conilrufting of Headings^ or farm-houfes, up-
on their eftates : in place of the old dirty, cold, inconvenient
huts, the tenants are now accommodated with clean, fubftan-
tial, well aired habitations, where equal attention hath been
paid to rural elegance and conveniency.
Manufa&urcs and Fifberies,— It hath been already ob-
served, that the people here, are particularly attentive to the
Vol. XIL 3 F raifing
policy of this law, mull appear evident to every perfon ; it bath been the death
of agriculture, wherever its baleful influence hath extended. It muft give
pleafure to every lover of his country, to obfervc, that it is now become an ob-
ject of .attention to a virtuous Lcgiflature, who, liftening, at length, to the voice
of juftice and humanity, have judged it expedient to take it off*. In this event,
gentleWn, whofe eftates are fituated upon the ihbre, will be induced to ere&
draw-kilns. The fanner will .have lime afforded him at a moderate rate. A
vigorous cultivation will take place. The quantity of grain will be incrcafed,
and the country affume a new face.
4i& Btatiftlcal Account
railing of flax. The reafon of this is, that confiderablc quan-
tities of coarfe linen are made every year, which is the only
fpecies of manufacture among them, cultivated to any extent.
It employs the female hands during winter, and brings a con-
fiderable fum into the place. It is bleached and whitened at
home, at a fmall expenfe. There is an annual market for it,
in the month of June, where it is bought up by the linen
dealers from Glafgow and Paifley, who export the greateft
part pf it to the Weft Indies. Near 7000 yards of cloth, of
this coarfe fabric, are manufactured yearly, which fells at
the rate of from is. to ijd. the yard, At the medium of
1 3rd. the yard, the fum produced, will amount nearly to
389I. its. 8-d. ; which fum, divided among the farmers and
houfekeepers, enables them to pay off their domeftic debts
with more eafe and punctuality •• Another fmall branch of
manufacture is- kelp, of which about zo tons are made, up-
on an average, yearly, and which feHs at 3I. and 5 1. the ton.
At fome former period, a felt-work was carried on, upon the
eftate of Hunterfton. Several old men remembered to have
feen the ruins of a building upon the fliore, that had been
employed in the work ; but, from fome unknown caufe, it
was given up. Of late, the filk and cotton branches have
been introduced, and employ a competent number of hands.
From this circumftance, and the attention paid to the making
of linen, the number of weavers mud greatly exceed that of
any other clafs of mechanicks* • Their numbers are, linen
weavers 17, cotton 19, filk 3. The other handicraftfmea
are, joiners 2, blackfmiths 3, (hoemakers 2, tailors 5.
In the diftritls of the parifh, fituated upon the fltore, Hik-
ing was purfued to an extent that ought not to be overlook-
ed in this account. It appears, from the beft information,
that, at the beginning of this century, upwards of 30 boats,:
belonging to the place, were employed annually in the her-
ring
OfW<ftKttbrlde, 411
ring and cod filbcry 5 each boat bad 4 men, when at the her-
ring-fifliing. From the month of July to O&ober, they were
all occupied in this branch. In the months of February and
March, about a dpzen of thefe boats, doubly manned, ftretch-
ed away to the coafts of Galloway, Ireland, and Cantire, in
fearch of cod, ling, and oy Iters* The number of men em-
ployed in thefe fifheries, when in their mod flourifhing ftate,
could not be lefs than 150 $ and the average fum acquired
upon them both, might amount to about 600 1. Sterling. For
man^ years, however, this trade was on the decline, and the
few boats that remained, when depopulation, to be mention-
ed in the fequel, took pUce, were, in confequence fuppreffed ;
fince that time, no attention has been paid to it, and the art
feems now totally loft.
Rent j Farms, See— The real rent of this parilb, is 25281,
Sterling. There are about 40 farms in it, which let frotq
300 1. to 36L There are 19 heritors, of which, 2 of the
greater, and 8 of the lefler, are non-refident. The number
of (beep is 2000 ; the mod of them are the fmall black-faced
breed. A few of the English breed have been introduced,
and are multiplying fail. The wool of the flxeep, whofe
walk is upon the ihore, is of a finer quality than that of
tbofe who graze upon the hilly grounds, and fells for at leaft
a third more. The fheep upon the higher walks are l^id
with tar, thofe upon the lower are not, which, perhaps, may
be one reafon of this difference in the pile of the wool. The
average quantity of wool f?ld off the different walks, is a-
bout 625 (tones yearly. The pafture in this pariih, is re-
markably favourable for feeding*; and both the mutton and
beef fattened upon it, upon account of their fuperior quality
in point of flavour and fweetnefs, have the preference in every
market where they are expofed. Of black cattle, there are
3 F 2 about
4 1 % Statjftical Account
about 620 : Horfes 155 ; of which, within thefe 12 years,
the oreed is mightily improved *.
«' « ... * - . 1
Population. — According to J^r. Webfter's report, the po-
pulation in 1755*- was 885. From a pretty accurate account
lately taken" of the number of inhabitants, it appears to a-
mount to 698, young and old. The average number of
births, for the lad 10 years, being 180 ; of marriages 50 ;
of deaths ioo* There is not the fmalleft doubt that the po-
pulation of this parifh, was much greater about 50 years ago, <
than it is now. The many veftiges of demolifhed farm-
houfes to be feen in different places, and the reports of old
men, afford fufficient proofs of 'depopulation. At a medium
calculation, there are 100 families fewer now, than former-
ly ; fo that reckoning at the rate of 6 to a family, makes the
number of inhabitants to have decreafed from that period, no
lefs than 600 f.
Ecckfiqflical
.»
* For fome years paft, the prices of labour and provifions have been gradual-
ly increafing. The wages of an artift have rifen from 151!. to iSd. and a 2d.,
and of a common labourer from is. to 1 5 d. and i3d. a-day. A flieep, which
formerly might have been bought for ios., now brings 16s. and 20s. A lamb* ,
cannot now be pufchafed for much below the old price of a flieep. Butter has
advanced from 6d. to od. and nd. the pound: And all other articles in pro*
, portion. -The caufe of this rife is eafy to be affigned, from the rapid increafe
of luxury ; the different mode of living introduced into every rank ; the great
demand for hands to be employed in the various branches of manufactures ; and,
of courfe, the vaft influx of people from the country to the great towns, where* |
they immediately find work and good encouragement, which necefiarily creates I
an increafing demand, and a ready market' for every article of life.
f The reafons for this, may be here' affigned. About the time above men- !
tioned, fome gentlemen of very confiderable property in the pariih, adopted the
Idea of grazing, as being better fuited to the -foil than ploughing, becaufe, front j
the lightnefs of it, it naturally runs into graft : In confluence, whole baronies 1
and large tracks of land, formerly planted thick with families, were thrown
wafte, to make way for this new mode of management'; and numbers of thefe
fmaJT
Of Weft Kilbride. 413
Ecclefiqftical State, Poor, &c— About 2 years ago, the
jninifter obtained an augmentation to his ftipend of 3 chal-
ders of vidual, and 20 1. Scots for communion elements ; fo
that the whole living, exclufive of the glebe, which is a very
fmall one, amounts now to 5 chaJders of meal, 2 of bear,
Linlithgow
(mall farms being conjoined, continued to be occupied by. one tenant, while the
former occupiers ejected from their little pofleflions, were obliged^ to remove to
other places in queft of bread, and thus carried away from that where they
were born, and many of them reared to manhood, the fruits of their labour
and their numbers. We may conceive reaftms exifting at that time, which
might induce proprietors to adopt this practice. The principles of husbandry
were not then fo well understood ; proper attention could not therefore be paid
to the land, to work and manage it fo as to render it duly productive. The
farmers, in thofe times, had neither the induftry nor the enterprifing fpirit
which characterifes their fucceffors. There was not the fame demand for the
produce of a farm, which, at that earlier period, did not bring one-third of the
price it does now ; consequently, one powerful encouragement to agricultural
exertions was wanting. The matter had his rent paid with lefs trouble.
But all thefe teafons taken together, will not compenfate the local evils pro-
duced by this mode of management : For, in the firjt place, it introduced a
fpirit of engrofling and monopolising farms, which, as it diminilhes the popula-
tion, has ever been deemed pernicious to the interefts of a country. Secondly^
It enriched a few individuals, at the expenfe of numbers, who were caft out of
bread. Thirdly^ It gave an immediate check to the progrefs of agriculture.
The old huibandry, even with all its defects, was better than none. The ob-
ject of the monopolizer^ being to rear cattle only, he paid little regard to
ploughing ; of courfe, the quantity of grain was diminilhed. The land was ne-
glected and luffered to run into a ftate of abfolute wildernefs ; fo that whole
tracks of it are now covered with furze ; and, from certain ftations, the coun-
try prcfents nothing to the eye, but the bleak appearance of a fbreft. The con-
fequence, upon the whole, has been, that when, in other places, farming, in
its prefent improved forms, had made confiderable advances, in this partth it
had made none. In the laft place, as has been obferved before, it gave the finifh-
inghandto the d'eftruction of the filhery. Gentlemen, it would appear, are
now fenfible of thefe evils, at leaft, in as far as the interefts of agriculture have
been affected by them ; and it Teems to be their wifh to have their eftates re-
peopled, and they have put their tenants upon fuch a footing, by the late leafe*,
as to make it their intereft to clear and cultivate the land ; from which the
ihoft beneficial effects may be expected*
414. Statijlical Account
Linlithgow meafure, and 429 1. Scots j in value, when yio
tual is at a high price, about 126 1. Sterling. The Earl of
Eglintoune is patron, and titular of the tiends. The manfe
is but an indifferent one ? and though it has received repairs
at different times, it is very little mended, but ftill remain*
a fmoky inconvenient houfe. Jt is fubje&ed to a grievance, or,
rather a curfe which attends mod manfes, that it (lands hard
by the village, and part of it proje&s into the church-yard.
The church is built upon a very bad conftru&ion. It is a
long, narrow, mean looking edifice ; low in the walls, and
deep roofed. There are few difleaters from the Eftabliiha}
Church, in proportion to the number of parifiuoners j there
being only about 50 belonging tp the 2 common feds of Se-
ccu^rs and Relief, who repair to their feveral meetings in the
neighbouring congregations .—As a proof' of the induftry, and
comfortable Qtuation of the inhabitants, in general, the num-
beV of poor is fmall, there being only 7, s*t prefent, upon the
penfion lift of the parifli : And, what is much to its cre-
dit, there are no wandering beggars belonging to it. There
is not an inftance in the recolleftion of any one living, of a
fingle pauper ftrolling without the limits of the place. Tbe
fund for the maintenance of the poor, is made up moftly from
the calle&ians at the church-doors. Of late, it hath received
aid from the liberal donation? of feme generous individuals,
to whofe bounty, a ftatiitical biftory, ought to pay the juft
tribute of encomium.
4ntiquitus> Remarkable Occurrences, &c This article
would afford abundant matter ior the antiquary and inquifi-
tive naturalift ; but we mud abridge as much as poffible. W?
begin with the ifland of Little Cumbray. This ifland is a-
bout a mile in length, and half a mile in breadth. It lies in
the parallel dire&ion to Bute, from S. W. to N. E. The
ftrata
6
Of Weft Kilbride. 41 §
firata of the rock of which it is compofed, are diftin&l/
marked by nature. Viewed at a diftance, they feem to lie *
nearly horizontal ; but, upon a nearer approach, they appear
to incline to an angle of fome elevation. They begin ffoirf
the water's edge, receding backwards froxfi, and fifing one a-
bove another to the top, like the fteps of a ftair. Upon the
S. fide, are a few dwelling-houfes, and an old Gothic cattle,
fituated direftly oppofite to another of the fame kind upon
the main land. Concerning the antiquity of this cattle, no-
thing can now be learned, and no date 6r infcription, front'
which it might be ascertained, has ever been difcovered. It
fcems to have been a place of fome ftrength. It is furround-
ed by a rampart and a fofle, over which has been a draw-bridge.
It was furprifed and burned by Cromwell's foldiers. The
ifland was then in the poffeffion of the family of Eglintoune,
which it has continued to be ever fince. In this ifland, are
no fewer than 7 caves *.
There are yet to be feen, the ruins of a very ancient chapel .
or place of worihip, faid to have been dedicated to Saint Vey,
who lies buried near it ; probably, it was a dependency of I.
Colm Kill.
Proceeding to the main land, we meet with another old
caftle, called Portincrofs, direclrly oppofite, as has been ob-
ferved, to the one upon the Little Ifle. Of the hiftory of this*
we are able to trace almoft as little as the other; but, from
its appearance, it bears vifible marks of great antiquity. It
ftands
** "two of them" only are very remarkable. One of thefe, is a fquare room
of 31 felt, fo high in the roof, that a perfon may ftand upright, and feems to
be the work of art. The other, which is the largeft of the whole, penetrate*
fo far, as never yet to have been explored. The certainty of meeting with
damps and mephitick air, renders fuch an attempt dangerous, if not impracti.
cable. Concerning the ufe of thefe caves, tradition conveys nothing certain,
and the legendary tales of fuperftition refpe&ing them, are too ridiculous to
defcrre notice.
4 1 6 Statijlical Account
•
ftands upon rocks fo clofe to the fea, that the waves daft a-
gainft its defaced walls, and at the very entrance of the in-
let or creek that forms the port. It feems to have been a
royal hunting feat, one of thofe places to which the Court
retired, to enjoy the diversion of fifhing and the chafe *.
Hitherto, no fatisfying account has been given of the ori-
gin of the name of this place. In the common language of
the country, it is Called Pencrofs, which, is juft a corruption
of its proper ancient name, Portincrofc ; but, for the reafon
of the name, we have only conje&ure. And, upon a fab«
jeft fo uncertain, we may be allowed to hazard one, juft as
tenable as any other, in the note below f.
The
. * What leaidi to this conje&ure,' is, that there is ftill extant in the poflcf-
fion of Robert Hunter, Efq. of Hunterfton, a charter of feafin, figned bj Ro-
bert the Second, at this caftle, in the 1374, being the 4th year of his reign,'
vefting the family of Hunterfton, in the property of certain parts of the lands'
•f Ardneel ; and to which deed, the names of feveral nobles who attended the
King in that excurfion, and compofed part of his court, are appended as wit-
neffes.'
f The promontory, near to which, this port and caftle are fituated, is the
extreme point of land direclly W. from Edinburgh. To this day, the track of
a line of road, can be diftin&ly traced through the country, leading from the
capital to this port. From this circumftance, as well as from the very name,
we conclude it muft have been a place of fome confequence. In thefc barbar-
ous and remote times, there could be no trade carried on in it, to give it that
tfonfequence. Neither can it be imagined, there was fo much communication
between the Highlands and the main land, as that this place might be con-
verted into a mere ferry port, for the conveniency of paflengers, who, we may
believe, would hardly be induced, either from profit or curiofity, to vifit thefc
inhofpitable regions. '
The rnoft probable account,' therefore, of the matter, feems to be, that this
was the place where they took boat to go over to the celebrated monaftery of
I. Golm Kill, the moft ancient foundation of the kind in Scotland, and which,
it is well known, was, for many ages, the burial-place of cur Scottiih Kings.
And, as this monaftery was eftablifhed long before .any other in this country, it
may be fuppofed, that, in that period of the gloomy reign of fuperftition, many(
pilgrimages were made to it. Hence, the name Portincrofs, being a compound
of
QfWtftKsMdi. 417
*Tite next objeft of attention in this quarter, is the precU
pice called Ardneel Bank, which lies a little to the north*
Vol. Xlli 3 G ward
of Portus and Crucis; becaufe, from this port, was the ncarcft and moft direct: .
paflage over to the royal cemetery, and from it too, the pious travellers took
their departure to do pennance, or make their offerings at tKe (acred place.
What corroborates this conjecture foniewhat, is, that at Lochranfa in the N.
end of Arran, there is an old caftle, where, tradition reports; the companies
pafiing to the weftern ifles, (whether thefe funeral and pilgrimage proceffions, is
uncertain), were wont to (top and refrefh ; and then, as may be concluded, crof-
fing over the narrow Ifthmus of Cautire, and again taking boat, after failing
through the found between Iflay and Jura, were immediately at Jona, the ob-
ject of their destination. This port and cattle have become (till more remark-
able, from an occurrence that happened near them, and which defervestobe
taken notice of here, namely, the lofs of one of the Spanifh (hips, that com-
posed the famous Armada, intended for the conqueft of England, in the year
1589, in confluence of their difperfion by a florin, after the action with the
£ngli(h fleet. She funk in about to fathom water, at no great diftance from
the (bore. It is difficult to affign a reafon for the accident ; the probability is,
lhat coming up the Fritn, with eafy weather, and all fail up, and ports open,
m fudden gttft from the land, which often happens in narrow ferfs, had overfet '
her. An attempt was made, fome more than 50 years ago, by means of a
diving machine, to examine her fituation, and whether it walpoffible to weigh
her up, or to recover what was moft valuable belonging to her. The diver re-
ported, that from the fize of her guns, (he appeared to have been a capital (hip;
-and a very large cheft was pereeived fixed upon deck. The operation fucceed-
ed fo far, that focae fine brafi guns were brought up, and a fnraller iron one,
which (till lies upon the beach.- This piece of ordnance, has undergone many
inflections, and various opinions have been formed about the Weight of its (hot.
'To judge from the caliber of it, in its prefent corroded (tare, it feems to have
been a 14 or zlpounden A fecomr attempt was to have been made, with a
.new and more complete apparatus, When, it is probable, much more of the
wreck would hate been recovered, bat the death of one of the undertakers,
unfortunately put an end to the fcheme.
Within the very fame place where the Spanifli (hip went down, a fine vefifel
fcelongbfg to Glafgow, the richeft that ever was fitted out from this country,
and the property of Olaaford and Company,- was alfo loft, in the fpringof the
year 1770. This difafter was occafioned, not by ftrefs of weather, but through
the inadvertency of the (hip's company, in allowing the veflel to drift too far
ip during night, ere the light-houfe was perceived, and in endeavouring to pa*
her about, (he miffed flays, and went upon the rocks.
41 8 Statiftical Account
ward of Portincrofs, and forms the promontory or extreme
point of land above mentioned* The name is of Gaelic oriw
ginal, and fignifics a high point, or Neel's high point. It is
truly a noble precipice. A fmall plain is interjected between
it and the water's edge, from which it rifes abruptly to the
height of more than 130 feet perpendicular. As we ap-
proach it ujton the S. fide, we meet with a vaft mound of
curious heterogeneous matter, which, if there was any veftige
of a crater nigh it, one might be ready to pronounce of the
volcanic kind. But as there is every reafbn to conclude,
that, not only the plain between the precipice and the water,
but the inland valley which runs along the back of it, have
been once occupied by the lea, and the precipice itfelf form-
ed into an ifland, another theory occurs, gamely, that this
mound has, at fome period, been thrown up by the influx
anc^eddy of the tide, and muft have been collecting there for
ages ; but being at laff left dry by the retiring of the fea,
through length of time it is consolidated into a firm com-
pacted mats. As we advance, the rock, compofed of differ-
ent kinds of (lone, grows more fleep and elevated. At bot-
tom, it is finely fkirted with natural ft rubbery ; farther up, its
aged front is adorned with an endlefs variety of plants, fuch
as hoar-hound, wild thyme, capillus veneris, &c. Toward
the fummit, it is lined with a thick covering of mofe, which
gives it a very venerable and grotefque appearance ; and here,
the whole terminates in 3 diftiaft cliffs, which, from their
exact firoilarity in figure and altitude, have, time immemorial,
obtained the appellation of the Three Sifters. In this fequef-
tered fcene, where there is fo much of the grand and the
beautiful, a perfon given to contemplation, and who loves fo-
litudc, may enjoy a walk to great advantage ; he will have
an opportunity of tracing nature, in fome of her more ftrik-
ing features of awfulnefs and majefty.
This
0/ Weft Kilbride. 419
This parifli, it hath been obferved before, abounds with
Jrills ; it may indeed be called a fyftem of them. The names
of feme of them are Gaelic. The moil remarkable are, the
Tarbet hill, the Law, the Auld hill, and the Comb or Cacnb,
which fignifies crooked. Thej have all been ufed as fignal
pofts in the times of the Danifh invafions. By fires from
their tops, the alarm was foon given of the appearance of an
enemy. Upon the Auld hill, there are the remains of a cir-
cular building, which, it is likely, was occupied as a watch
tower. At the foot of the fecond, (lands another Gothic
caflle, which takes its name from the hiU, die Law, it is one
of the completed of the kind to be feen any where. It was
formerly one of the {eats of the Kilmarnock family, who had
large pofleffipns in this part of the country j but at what time
it was built, no account can be given ; but from its appear-
ance, it mud be much more modern, than any of the other
two already defcribed. The laft mentioned hill, is famed for
affording fine millftones, compofed of a fort of coarfe granite, .
and are of an uncommonly hard and durable quality. Thefe
millftones are in fuch high repute, as to be demanded from
places at the dtftance of 8© miles j they are difperfed through
the Highlands and iflands, 'and feme of them exported to Ire-
land, to America, and the Weft Indies.
There are no rivers in this parifli, but a number of fmaller
ftreams or burns, which, after heavy rains, fometimes come
down in vaft torrents from the hills. One of thefe, near the
northern boundary of tbe parifli, taking its courfe through a
romantic glen, called the Glen of Southannan, is remarkable
for a feries of beautiful catara&s, which diqunifh gradually
as the ftream approaches the fea. The largeft of thefe rails
at the head of the glen, is indeed a linking piece of nature's1
work. The whole ftream ifluing with a rapid current from
between a high hills, precipitates over a rock from tbe height
3 G a ^
4*9 Statlflical Account
pf 50 feet, into a deep and awful chafm, the bottom of which,
is formed into a capacious fphere, as if it had been hollowed
out with a chifel, and refembling a bafon tumbled upon its
fide ; over it9 the rocks at top, projeft with threatening mar
jefty. The wildnefs of the fcene is much jncreafed by the
fine natural wood that encircles the abyfs, where the oak, the
hazle, the birch, from to vie with each other, ip flifplayiog
their mingled verdure.
Near to this fpot, are the ruins of the fine houfc of South-
annan, former}/ the residence of the family of Seuorple, now
the property of my Lord flglintoune. It is built in the Ita-
lian tajte ; a Lord Semple, who refided fome time in Italy, iu
the reign of James the Sixth, brought the model of it from
that country. A beautiful green hill, of a fecoadary order
to the Comb, btit attached to it, rifes with a hold and fuddea
fwell behind the houfe, from thence we look down upon the
difmantled fabrick of a once fplendid dwelling, hiding, as it
were, its deformity, among a number of .very fine old elms9
beeches, and aflies, wbofe veperable boughs, now bending tq
the earth, befpeak their age ; and over the tops of the tree^
and the ruins, an expanded ihcet of water, which at full fea,
feems tq come in contad with them. Viewed from this
point, the landscape is abundantly charming and diverfified.
A few paces in front, are the remains of a fmall chapel ; the
font yet entire.
Eminent Men— Dr. Robert Simpfon, late profefior of m**t
{hematics in the Univerfity of Glafgow, whofe celebrity in
bis profefDon, refle&s honour upon the fpot that gave him
birth, was a native of this place. He long enjoyed a pretty
confiderahle eftate in it, which he inherited from his ancestors,
but which is now* by purchafe, gone out of *the family, into
the hands of another proprietor. In this obfeure retreat, he
fpent
Of Wtf Kilbride. 42k
fpent the firft years of his life, a period, be often recollected
with pleafure. At Glafgow, he received the rudiments of
that knowledge, which afterward raifed him to fo much emu
aence among men of letters* In his Euclid, his Conic-Sec*
tioas, and other mathematical works, be has left a monument
of genius and intellectual ability*
» sere perennrat
Quod non imber edax, non impotens aouilo
Poilit diruere, aut innumerabilia
Annorum feries, et fuga temporurn.
CharaBer of the Peopte% Manners, &c«-+-It may well be
accounted a fortunate circumftance for the inhabitants of this
place, that their fequeftered fituation has, hitherto fecured
{them from the incroaching influence of that corruption, which
in other places pf more bufinefs and refort, has produced fo
great a change in the morals of the people. They, on the
contrary, have uniformly fup ported a chara&er for induftry,
fbbriety, and decent condu&. The oldeft man living, does
sot recoiled an inftance of one convi&ed of a capital crime.
Their feftive meetings are conduced with much cheerfulnefs
and 'rural gaiety/ but without riot. Their pun&uality in
paying their debts, at two terms in the year, is now grown
into local ufage. They are uncommonly regular in their at-
tendance upon public worihip ; and at church, exhibit a very
decent appearance, from the neatnefs of* their drefs, and at*
tention to the facred fervice. In their behaviour, efpecially
to their fuperiors, and to ftrangers, there is an affability and
discretion, that diftinguifhes it remarkably from the morofe
and fullen rufticity of fome of the more inland peafants. In
$ne, in their labours, their amufements, and the general te-
por of their conversation, one may readily recognife the hap-
pineb,
4t2 Statiftical Account
pinefe, contentment, and comfortable independence, of an io*.
aeft and peaceable people.
m The men are, in tbeir ftaturc, generally above the middle
fize, flout and well made, and make hardy hufbandmen and
failors. And this leads us to obfenre, that perhaps no coun-
try parifli in Scotland, has afforded fo many men to the fea,
as Weft Kilbride. From a calculation made in the year 1782,
it appeared that upwards of 63 men were employed in the
fervice of the Navy, or aboard trading veflels, and fome of
them were in every great adion fought at fea, during the late
war. At prefent, the number is considerably lefs, upon ac-
count of the great encouragement, of late years, held out to
manufacturers, which induced many young men, who would
otherwife have gone to fea, to become weavers j die wages
and pay of a feaman, being fo much below what can eafily
' be earned by the commoneit manufacturer. What a pity is
it, that thefe brave and ufeful men, from whofe toils and
dangers, their country acquires fo much wealth and glory,
are not more adequately rewarded ! This change in the incli-
nations of the young men, which determines them to prefer
the inanufa&uring to the feafaring line, may indeed be more
gainful to individuals, but, in a moral view, promifes no ad-
vantage to the community ? as there is feme reafon to dread,
that the ingenious, frank, and manly chara&er of the tar,
may, in time, give place to the petulance and effeminacy, the
turbulent, factious, and fanatical fpirit, which experience has
proved to be but too* generally attached to people who folloyf
Che more domeftic occupations.
Concluding Observations. — We already took notice, that
one capital hinderance to the progrefs of agricultural improve-
ments, in this part of the country, is the duty on coals 5 the
repealing of this duty, therefore, will be a moft produdivc
mean
Of Weft Kilbride* 404
m£aar of promoting thofe improvements* It will facilitate
the procuring of lime, without which9 nothing effe&ual can
be done $ and when joined to the additional advantage of an
excellent read, which the people now enjoy, the great road
leading from Greenock to Port-Patrick, paffing through the
whole length of the pariflb, will give a fpirit to the exertions
of the hulbandman hitherto unknown. It will fecure the good
effed of the example of thofe more indufirious. and enter-
prifing farmers, who have already done a great deal, under
all the difadvantages of driving lime from a diftance. And
it will render the more lazy and obftinate ones inexcufable,
when every caufe of complaint, arifing from the great ex-
pense of this article fhall be removed *• This meafure may
likewife
* Another thing of great importance to be attended to is, the reviving and
restoring the fiJheries. As farming and fifliing cannot conveniently and ef-
fectually be carried on together, the laft ought to be put upon fuch a footing,
and fach encouragement given, as to* render it worth any perfon's while to pur-
ine it as a feparate branch. In order to this, it is absolutely requifite to have
fome proper ftation, to which boats may have eafy acceft upon all ©ccafioot;
and may lie in fafety ; and alio proper habitations for the accommodation of
the filhen and their families. Upon a bleak and open coaft, fuch as this is, and
where there is fo much foul ground, a (table and regular fifliing can never take
place without thefe provisions. Hitherto, this fhore has afforded nothing of the
kind. The port of Fortincrofs does not anfwer the purpofe, the entrance of it
is fo environed with rocks, that boats can only take it in eafy weather, and they
muft be drawn up without the reach of an impetuous furge which drives in
with every gale. A little to the northward of the old port, between it and a
place called the Thxoughlet, the entrance to the precipiqe above defcribed,
nature points out a fpot, which, by the hand of art and induftry, might be
formed into an excellent fifliing ftation. There is a fine natural inlet, upon
which there is always fufficient depth of water, and which could be eafily
widened to the deiign ; within, a fpacious bafon might be fcooped out, where
boats and (macks of all dimenfions might enter and lie in the moft perfect fe-
curity imall weathers. Around this place, is a great deal of barren land, which
at prefent yields nothing but indifferent pafture. This might be pro6tably laid
•ut in (tradings and gardens for the convenience of thofe employed in the fifli-
ing.
%
424 Statiflical Accvutit
likewife be of great benefit to fome proprietors, in anodwt
refpeA, as it will probably induce them to ere& fialt-woiksj
a branch of manufacture that might be purfoed here with
profit ; as this part of the Frith, being not liable to be af«
feded with fireflies from large rivers, the water, from ill
ftrong marine impregnation, promtfes to be produ$iv«;
NUB*.
lag. The execution of this fcheme, no doubt, would be attended with cob*
fiderable expenfe ; but if it is practicable, what can men of property do with
their money that is better ? are they not to be blamed for neglecting under*
takings, where they might lay it out with advantage, and do eflential ferric*
to their country ?
If fifliing was confidered as an object 80 yean ago, when the price of fflh of
all kindk was low ; and even under all the difadvantages anting from the want
of a convenient harbour : much more would it be an objed now, when tbt
prices are advanced in a four, fix, and tenfold proportion, and when' every cn»
coungement was given that the nature of the bufineis requires.
bf kirkmlchaei 425
(NUMBER XXXIt
PARISH of KIRK MICHAEL;
(Counti or Banff* Synod of Morat, PREtatMRY of
Aberneth*.)
Bj the Rev. Mr. John Grakt.
Name, Extent, Surface, &c.
IN Monki(h hiftory, this parifli derives its ecclefiaftic name!
from St. Michael, to whom the chapel, where how the
kirk (lands, was anciently dedicated. If this account be
true, it may be obferved, that the tutelary patron, ever fince
the period of his ele&ion, has paid little regard to the mo-
rality of his clients. In the Gaelic, the vernacular idiom;
it is called Strath-ath-f hin* from " Strath," a dale, " ath,"
a ford, and " Fin,9' the hero Fin gal, fo highly celebrated in
the Poems of Offian. It is generally written Strath-avan,
avan being the appellative for a river ; but the former ety-
mon approaches much nearer to the provincial pronuncia-
Vol. XII. 3 H tioft.
1
4*6 . Statiftical Account
tion. It is further confirmed by a ftanaa, which is ftifl t&*
cited by the old people of the country.
Chaidh mo bheauis bhatha',
Ain uifg ath-f hin, nan clachan fleamhnin f
*S bho chaidh mo bheans' bhatha',
Bheirmeid ath-f hin, ainm an amhuin.
*' On the limpid water of the fiippery ftones, has my wife
been drowned, and fince my wife has there been drowned,
henceforth its name fhall he the tfater of FingaL" It is the
tradition of the country, that in one of Fingal's excurfions,
jn purftfit of the deer of the mountains, after having croffed
the river, he was followed by his wife, who being carried
down by the violence of the ftream, funk, and was drowned*
To commemorate this melancholy event, in which the hero
was tenderly interefted, he uttered the above ftanza. Since
that period, the water, which was formerly called An-uifge-
geal, or the White Water, in allufion to its tranfparency, af*
fumed by an eafy tran&ion, the name of the ford or river of
Fingal.
The parifh of Kirkmichael * is £vided into 10 little di£»
trids,
* It is prefomabk, from its defolated fituation, the natural barriers 5y which
it is fcparated from the circumjacent countries, the detached hills, and numer-
ous ftreams, by which it is interfe&ed, that the parkh of Kirkmichael has not
been inhabited till of a late period. Several old people, now alive, remember
the firft culture of a fpace of ground within its precincts, that may contain, at
prcfent, a tenth part of the whole population. To this circumftance, and the
coldnefs of the climate, it has been owing, that the pofleffion of the property
has undergone fo few changes. The firft proprietor, as far as can be traced
back by the light of authentic records, feems to have been Macduff, Thane of
Fife. In a charter, where he makes a gift of the contiguous parifh of Invcr-
8tven, it is faid, " Malcolmus de Fife, falutem. Sciant prefentes, me dediife,
*t hac carta confirmaflc, Deo et Epifcopo Moravieafi, ecclefiam beati Peteri dtf
Inwaven,
Of Kirktmcbaeh $iy
trifts, called Davochs *. Several antiquaries have miftakea
the etymon of Davoch ; but the word is evidently derived
from Daimh, oxen, and Ach, field. In its original accepta-
tion, it imports as much land as can be ploughed by 8 oxen.
In the Regiam Majeftatem, it is clearly defined f.
3 H a This
Inveraven, quam Briciua tcnuit, ct cum omni parochia totins Strathaven, cum
dccimis et oblationibus, in pcrpetuam Eleemofynam." This gift was made in
the 13th century ; and, upon the decline of the ancient family of Macduff, the
property was transferred to Alexander Stewart, Earl of Buchan, of the Royal
Family. In 148a, Sir Walter Stewart, grandfon of the Earl of Buchan, in
the illegitimate line, refigncd it to King James the III. By King James the
III., it was given to the Earl of Huntly. In 1492, this gift is confirmed by
King James the IV., in favour of Alexander, Lord GorYlon, Matter of Huntly.
This noble family have continued the proprietors of the pariih of Kirkmichael
ever fince. So that during a period of near 50* years, the observation of a
Qreek poet, juftified by general experience, upon the fluctuations of property*
can fcarcely be applied to (his diftrict,
Aypog A^aifumitt ytfopm W9n4 mtv U Minor**
Km *mXn s( irtpv, finsfuu ut iTiffv,
* One of thefe belongs to that refpectahle character, Sir James Grant ; the
other 9 are the property of his Grace the Duke of Gordon, a nobleman not
more diftinguiihed by his great and opulent fortune, than for the antiquity of
his family, his fplendid hofpitality, his patriotifm and humanity. What the
poet Buchanan applied to one of his anceftors, may, with equal propriety, fub*
ftituting the paft for the prefect, be applied to his Grace :
Dives opum, luxuque carens, domus hofpita cunclis*
Pacis amans pectus, fortis ad arma manus*
* It is obferved by an eminent hiftorian, that Charles V., was not more eon.
fpicuous for his own good fenfe, than for that proof which he exhibited of it, in
the choice of his miniftry. This obfervation will apply to his Grace, in its full
latitude ; as the gentlemen, to whom his Grace has intrufted the management
of bis buuneft, have acquired an efteem, to which candour, integrity, and af-
fability have juftly entitled them. In this character Mr. Tod is too well known
to require the feeble panegyric of the writer of this Statiftical Account.
* f " Davata," fays that writer, " apnd prifcos Scotos, quod continet quatoor
gratia terrx, quorum unumquodqute trahitur odlo bobu?. Alii quatuor aratra du-
plicia
£zB Statiftical Account
This pariflb lies at the weftern extremity of the county nf
Banff, from which it is diftant between 30 and 40 computed)
miles. On every fide, there are natural barriers which fe>
parate it from the furrounding countries ; frozn the pariih of
Strath-don, toward the S.f by Leach '-mhic-ghothin, the de-
clivity of the ftnith's fon ; from the parifh of Cromdale to-
ward the N. by Beinn Chromdal, the hill of the winding
dale* Thefe are two long branches of hills, that, running in
an eafterly. direction, projefit from the northern trunk of the
prampian mountains *. From the parifh of Aberaethy to-
ward the W«, it is feparated by moors and hills, that conned
Cromdale hill with Gknavon j from the pariih of In vera van,
by moors, and hills, and narrow defiles. The length be-
tween the extreme points that are habitable, may be about
10 computed miles. The breadth is unequal. Where it
tapers at the extremities, in feme places, it is lefs than a
mile ; between the verges (hat bound the middle, it may be
about;
plicia intelligunt, qup ftint o&o fimplicia : fed fervari debet ufus, et confiietttdo
locorum. In nonnullis libris hoc legitor bavata terrtfc contra fidera veterum co-
dicum authenticorum. Bavata autem terns continct tredecem acras, cuju*
odtava pars comprehendit unara acrara, dimidium acne, et octavarn partem
acre/' This paflage (hows, that in ancient times, in the Highlands, a fmall
portion of land was cultivated, in comparifon of the prefent. A davoch of the
brdinary extent of thefe diftri&s, would now require, at leaft, three times as
many cattle to labour it, as were formerly employed according to the above
paflage from the Regiam Majcftatem. Hence, it may be inferred, that the
population has increafed in proportion.
* Grampian, from Grant and Beinn. Grant, like the kyn of the Greeks,
has two oppofite meanings. In fome fragments afcribed to Offian, it fignifics
beautiful. This meaning, now, is obfolete, and it fignifies deformed, ugly, &c-
The old Caledonians, as thefe mountains abounded in game, and connecliog
beauty with utility, might have given the name in the former fenfe. Mr.
Henry SaviUe, and Mr. Lhuyd, two eminent antiquaries, call them Griut
Ecinn, from which comes the foft inflected Grampian of the Romans,
Of Kirkmicbaef. 4*9
about 3 computed miles. In its fliape, it rcfembles an irre-
gular oblong oval.
Cairn-gorm, or the Blue Mountain, one of the high,
though perhaps not the highelt of thofe lofty mountains that
ilud the Grampian defcrt, rifes 4050 feet above the level of
the fea ; and Loch-avon not more than a mile from the foot
of the Cairn.gorm*, 1750 feet. At the fouthern extremity
of tlic, pariih, there is a catarad. falling from a height of 18
feel* From this cataraft to Lochavon, the fource of the river,
there are 8 computed miles ; between die manfe of Kirk*
,rnichael, which lies within % miles of the northern extremitj
of the parifli, and the above cataraft, there are 7 computed
miles. As the fource of the river there, is fituated fo near
the cultivated part of the country, it may be inferred, that,
fhe fituation of the whole ground is very confiderably ele~
yated above the furface of the fcaf. The face of the coun-
try,
* For the height of this mountain and Lochavon, the writer is obliged to
James Hay, Efq. of Gordon Cattle, a gentleman of much knowledge, whofe
feill in obferving, and whofe accuracy in describing natural appearances, are
well known to the Linnsean Society in London.
f CJotc by Lochavon, there is a large (lone called Clach-dhian, from clach,
a ftone, and dhian, protection, or refuge. It. has been a cavity within, capable
of containing x8 armed men, according to the figure made ufe of in defefibing
it. One corner of it rifes 6 feet 4 inches in. height. The breadth of it may be
about 1 % feet. Plain within, it rifes on the outfide from the feveral verges of
the roof, into a kind of irregular protuberance of an oblong form. In times of
licence and depredation, it afforded a retreat to freebooters.
Clach -bhan, from clach, a ftone, and bean, a woman, is anofher ftone fituat-
ed upon the fummit of a hill, called Meal-a-ghaneirnh, from meal, a knoll or
mound, and ganeimh, fand. On one fide, it meafures 20 feet in height. On
the other fide, it is lower and of a floping form. In the face of it, i feats have
been excavated, refembling that of an armed chair. Till of late, this ftone
ufed to be vifited by pregnant women, not only of this, but from diftant coun-
tries, imprefTed with the fuperftitious idea, that by fitting in thefe feats, the
pains of travail would become e&fy to them, and other obftetrical afliftance
rendered unneceffary.
43& Stati/iical Account
fry, in general, exhibits a bleak and gloomy appearance. In
croffing the centre of it, few cheering objeds attraft the eye
of the traveller. From detached hills covered with heath,
and deftitute of verdure, where here and there a lonely tree
marks the depredations of time, he naturally turns with a-
verfion. Bat, fhould he happen to pafs after a heavy fall of
rain, when the numerous brooks that interfefi the country
pour their troubled dreams into the roaring Avon, he muft
commiferate the condition of the inhabitants, at fuch a fca-
fon, precluded from the reft of the world, and even from en-
joying the fociety of each other. Frequently in winter, the
jfnow lies fo deep, that the communication between it and
other countries, becomes almoft impracticable. * The banks
of the Avon, .however, are pleafant enough, and in different
places tufted with groves of birch, mixed with fome alder.
This being the largeft ftream that waters the country, from
its fource to where it falls into the Spey (the Tueffis * of An*
toninus's Itinerary), it flows over a fpace of 24 or 25 miles,
including its windings. In the parifli, there are a other lcffer
ft reams, befides a variety of brooks ; the one called Conlas,
from cuthin, narrow, and glas, green, and the other, ailnac,
from eil, a rock, and nidh, to wafiiv
Climate .— < From its elevated Situation, the numerous brooks
by which it is interfered, and its vicinity to the Grampian
mountains, it might naturally be expe&ed, that the atmon
fphere of this country has little to recommend it. Of this*
the inhabitants have fufficient experience. Their winters aro
always cold and fevere, while their fummers are feldom warm
an4
* Toeffis, from Tuath, north, and uifg, water, by way of eminence, being
the largeft river in the N. of Scotland, it was afterward called Spey, from
Spadha, a long ftiide, in allufion to the length of its courfc.
Of Kirkmicbael 431
and genial* The diforders confequently to which they are
fubjeft, may, in a great meafure, be attributed to their cli-
mate. Thefe, for the moil part, are coughs, confumptionsv
and affe&ions of the lungs, by which many of thofe advanced
in life' are cut off, and frequently feverals of thofe who die
at an earlier period. In fummer and autumn, what the Me-
dical Faculty call nervous fevers, chiefly prevail, and fre-
quently prove fatal* Thefe are the common diforders.
Soil, Springs, Natural Hi/lory, See. — As the face of this
Country rifes into hills, or finks into valleys, as it flopes into
declivities, or extends into plains, the foil accordingly varies*
Along the banks of the Avon, and the brooks, it generally
confifts of a mixture of land and black earth ; in the more
elevated plains, of a pretty fertile black mould, on the Hop-
ing declivities, of a kind of reddiih earth and gravel ; the
nearer it approaches the fummits of the hills, it is mixed with
roo£s and gravel. In ibme few places, it is deep and clayey.
In the parifli, there are feveral fprings of mineral waters :
One in particular, is much frequented by people troubled with
the (lone, or labouring under ftomachic complaints. Some
medical gentlemen, who have made the experiment, affert
that it is foperior to the celebrated wells of Pananich On Dee-
fide. It has been obferved, that the hills of this country are
covered with heath, and deftitute of wood ; yet, in the in-
terfaces of the heath, there grows a rank grafs, and a plant
called Canach an Shleibh, or the mountain down, on which
cattle and fheep feed in fummer, and grow tolerably fat. The
foreft of Glenavon which is 11 miles in length, and be-
tween 3 and 4 in breadth, contains many green fpots, and
during 4 months of the fummer and autumn feafons, affords
pafture for a 1000 head of cattle. This foreft is the pro-
perty of his Grace the Duke of Gordon. Further, toward
4 the
43 2 Statiftical Account
the S., and forming a divifion of the forcft of Glen a von, lie*
Glenbuilg, alfo the property of the Duke of Gordon. Glen-
builg will be about 5 miles in length, and between 2 and 3
in breadth. If no part of it were laid under iheep, it might
afford pafturage for 500 or 600 head of cattle.
' The long and narrow defile that bounds the fouthern extre-
mity of the parifh, and contiguous to the Avon, exhibits a
beautiful and picturefque appearance; It is every where co-
vered with grafs, the ever-green juniper, and the fragrant
birch. From the beginning of April, till the middle of No-
vember, Iheep and goat9, in numerous flocks, are conflantly
feen feeding on its pendent fides. In many of the Grampian
xnonntains are found, precious ftones of a variety of colours*
But whatever may be their fpecific difference, they are all
denominated by the well known name of Cairn-gorm ftones,
that being the mountain in which they hate been found in
the greateft abundance. Some of them are beautifully po-
liced by the hand of nature, while others are rude and fhapc-
lefs. They are ranked by naturalifts in the clafs of to-
pazes *•
Population^
* Limeftone is fo plenty, that there is fcarcely a farm in the whole parifh
above a mile and a half's distance from a quarry of it. Freeftone is alfo found,
but of a foft and friable quality. A Hate quarry has been opened many years
ago, and occafionally wrought ; the ftone is of a greyi/h colour. It is hard and
durable, and fupplies the neighbouring countries in that article, particular!/
Strathfpcy. So little tenacious is his Grace the Duke of Gordon of his right of
property, that he allows every perfon to ufe thefe quarries at pleasure, free from
!' all reftraint. Two marl pits have been discovered, but lying on the diftant
! (kirts of the parifh. Farmers have not availed themfelves of the marl as a ma-
nure; there are few, however, who ufe not lime for this purpofe. In the year
J x73*> an "on mmc waft epened in the hiU Leach- mhic-ghot hi n, which feparate*
this pariih from Strathdon, by a branch of tjie York-Building Company, then
refiding in Strathfpey. It was continued to be wrought till 1739, when, by *
derangement in their affairs, they left that country. Since that period, it has?
I been totally abandoned. This mine alfo, .is the property of the Duke of Gordon.-
!
<y kirkmcbatl. 433
bulatioft, &c— According to Dr. Webfter's report, the
population in 1755, was ii88. No feffional records are now
in exiftenee belonging to this pariih, previous to the 1725;
when the incumbent before the laft was admitted. Ever
fince, it has not been poffible to keep them with accuracy.
Difienters, of whatever denomination, wateh the opportunity
of encroaching upon the prerogative of the Eftahlilhed Church*
As the third, then, of the people of this pariih are Roman
Catholics, the prieft generally takes the liberty of fharing in
theT fund ions that belong to the Proteftant clergyman *.
By the moft accurate inquiry, it has been found that this
parifh contains 1276 inhabitants, young and old, and of both
fexes. Of thefe, 384 are Roman Catholics : all the indivi-
duals of each profeflion are included, in i$$ families, con*
taining, at an average, 5 perfons to a fariiily, with 165 chil-
Vol. XII. 3 I dren
* From this ckcumftance, it muft happen,' that there will be feveral mar-
riages and baptifms unknown to the feflion, and consequently cannot have place
in its records. Hitherto, the prefent incumbent has not checked this encroach-
ment, from his averfion to every kind of illiberal intolerance ; but, on the con*
trary, allowed the Roman Catholic prieft to ufe every liberty, as if toleration
had extended to this country. He allows him to marry and baptize, im-
pofe penalties, and exact them among his own people, in the fame manner a*
if he were of the Eftabliihed Church. The writer of this ftatiftical article
mentions this circumftance, as he thinks it ought to be an invariable rule of
conduct to pfa&ife that divine precept, in doing to others, as we would wife
others do unto us. Some years ago, too, the taxes impofed upon deaths, mar-
riages, and baptifms, made them be confidered as a kind of contraband goods,
and for that rcafon, many of them were as much" as poffible concealed from
pnblick view, that they might elude aa impcfition, which they called tyran-
nical and oppreflive. Though in a different language, this novelty, to their ex-
perience, incited the people frequently to utter the indignant fentiment of Ba-
jaculus, general of the Anfibarii, as mentioned by Tacitus, " Deeue," fays he
•* terra in qua vivamus, in qua moriamur, non poteft." To the operations of thefe
caufes, it muft be imputed, that fo little fatisfaclory light, refpecting the popu-
lation, can be derived from the mutilated records of the feflion of Kirk*
michaeL
434 Statiftical Account
0
dren under 8 years of age *. During the 4 laft years, accord
ing to a late furvey, there have been bom, at an average, an-
nually, 32 children, in the proportion of 21 males to 19 fe-
males. Old women are found to be more numerous than old
men, in the proportion of 3 to a. In this period, 10 have
died of each ; two men at the age of 95 and 86 years 9 and
two women at the age of 93 and 95 years. During the
fame period, 14, at an average, have died annually. There
is juft now living, two men 88 years each, and three wo.nen,
87, 89, and 91, each. The average of marriages for the laft
4 years, has been 6 annually. ~-*By a pretty accurate calcula-
tion, the total of black cattle in the parifh, amounts to 1400*
with 7050 fheep, 310 goats, and 303 horfes. No other do-
mefticated animals are reared, except fome poultry, and a
few geefe.
Acres, Rent, &c — The whole parifh, exclufive of the
foreft of Glenavon, Glenbuilg, and the hill pafture belong-
ing to the davoch of Delnabo, the property of Sir James
Grant, contains 29,500' acres, of which little more than 1350
are arable. The whole rent may be about iiool. Sterlings
but to a certain extent of grafs following each firm, no rent
is affixed.
Ecclefiajlical State, Schopls, Poor, &c.— The glebe, manfe,
and garden, occupy a fpa«p of between 9 and xo acres, fitu-
ated on an eminence, and hanging upon the Hoping fides. A
part of the foil is poor, and a part tolerably fertile. The
value
• By confultirig the feffion records for the years 1749, T750, and 1751, when
the records appear to have been kept with more than ufual accuracy, in the
firft of thefe periods, there were born 14 males, and 14 females; in the fecond,-
33 males, and *© females; and, in the third, 16 males, and t6 females.
, Of Rirkmicbacl. 435
value of it may be about 6 1. *• The church was built in
1747, and has been never fince repaired. As a boufe of
worfiup, it would appear to a ftranger to be totally deferted.
A few broken windows mark the fable walls : the glafs is
broken, and gives free accefs to the winds from all the car*,
dinal points. Were the people enthufiaits, a little current of
air might be neceffary to cool them ; but in their prefent difc
polition, they frequently complain of the inroads of the cold,
to difturb them in their fober meditations ; yet they never
exprefs a wife to remove the inconvenience. Their apathy
is the more extraordinary, as his Grace the Duke of Gordon,
is ever ready to liften to the reprefentations of his people,
and never refufes to grant them a juft and equitable requeft.
Sir James Grant id patron of the parifk. From 1717* till
1786, .the ftipend of this parifli was no more than 47 1. 4 s.
5fd. Sterling. During the latter of thefe years, his Grace the
Duke of Gordon, informed of the fmallnefs of the living,
was pleafed to bellow upon the prefent incumbent, without
(he painful feeling of felicitation, a gratuitous augmentation $
and this at a time when the Court of SeiSon were inimical
to fuch claims. The ftipend, at prefent, is 68 1. 6 s. 8 d.
Sterling, with iol. Sterling, allowed by his Grace for a houfe.
It will not be deemed a digreffioq, to mention that his Grace
gave a farm to the prefent incumbent, at a moderate rent,
when an advanced one, and a fine of ao guineas were offered
\>j others.— There are 2 fchools- a Society one at Tammtoul,
3I a with
• No grafs is annexed, except a fhare of the common hill pafturage. It lies
at the diftance of 3 computed miles from the mofs, to which there is a bad road,
riling into aicents, and falling into declivities. In rainy weather, a kind of
gully contiguous to it, becomes impaffable, which frequently prevents the mi-
nifter from getting home his fuel in the proper feafon. Owing to this circum-
stance, he is generally ill fupplied, and obliged to accommodate himfelf at fome
ijiHance in the neighbourhood, at a confidcrable expenfe.
43$ Statical Account
with a fidary of 13 1. tos., and 3 parochial me atTafed*-
laggan, with a felary of 8). 6 s. 8<L— No funds appropriated)
for the relief of the poor, have been hitherto eftabli&ed ill
this parifb. Three jears ago, the trifling fum of j 1. Ster-
ling, was bequeathed by an old woman ; and, without ex-
aggeration, few parishes ftand more in need of the charitable,
contributions of the well difpofed. The number of the old
and ipfirm at prefent on the lift, amounts to 3 a perfons ;
while the annual colleftion, diftributed laft week; came to no
more than 42 s. 6+ d. Sterling. In this large treafnre, defign-
cd to be incorruptible, beyond the power of moths and raft,
there were 1 s., j fixpences, 443 d., and 50 farthings *•
The price of provifiona in this country has been different,
at different times. In the reign of King William, it is well
known
* la the yean 17S9 and J7*3» ta€ incumbent felt experimentally, t)ie wretch^
ed condition of the poor here, and from the neighbouring countries. Though
his own income was only, at that time, 47 1. 4s. 5$d. ; yet, of this pittance, he
Expended, at a moderate calculation, 7I. Sterling, each of tjiefe years, in cha-
rity. Preaching that virtue to others, the forlorn urged their claims to him for
the practice of his do&rine ; nor were their claims, proportionate to his abili-
ties, refufed. During the above years, his Grace the Duke of Gordon extend-
ed a humane concern to the diftrefies of the inhabitants, by fupplying them in
meal and feed-corn, at a moderate price. No perfon, as far as the writer of
this ftatiftical article knows, died of want, though, it may be prefumed, that
a portion of aliment unufually fcanty, might prove the ultimate caufe of the
death of feveral. As the poor are peculiarly under the protection of provi*
dence, and left as a tax upon the affluence and luxury of their more fortunate
brethren of mankind, it were to be wlflied, that in parilhes where there arc
no funds, where the contributions are fmall, proprietors would be pleafed to
beftow fome little annual fum, under proper reftri&iens, to afford them relief.
Such charity might contribute to fecure themfelvet a property in a more per.
manent country, and better climate than the prefect, where, even according te
Homer,
On wfirif , «r «* X^f' wtXv( *" *** q*&fH
AXX tui Z*Qup4u Xtytrtnitcrrtf «**-«;
€f Kirkmicbael 43$
known that a famine prevailed over the whole kingdom, and
continued during feveral years* Either agriculture, at that
rime, maft have been imperfeftly underftood, or the calamity
muft have been fevere, when a boll of meal coft 1 1 6 s. 8 d.
Sterling- The year 1709, ,is alfo noted for a dearth, and
winter, uncommonly rigorous over every part of Europe *.
Among
* la France, it is defcribed by a Poet of the time, a$ blading trees, and af-
e&ing even the vine.
•« _— _ . bine,** fays he, ** noftros et nux et oliva per agros
Interiit, brumssque uuci vix reftitit ilex."
The eflfe&s were felt in this country, and victual rofe in proportion ; the boll
of meal coft 1 1. 3 s. Sterling. There are many ftill alive, who remember the
year 1740. The frofts came in September, and the fnow fell fo deep in Octo-
ber, that the corn continued buried under it, till January and February follow-
ing. At that period, the boil of meal rofe to the exorbitant price of 50s* the
bull : and to increafe the mifery of the people, thofe who fold it, frequently
mixed it with lime, which to many proved fatal. To rapport life, the people*
over the Highlands, in general, were obliged frequently to let blood from their
cattle, a practice now that is never ufed in this country. About 30 years ago,
thefeafons being favourable, the boll of meal fold at the low. price of 6"s. 8d-
During the lait ac* years, the average price, exclufive of 178a and 1783, haa
been about io*t. Sterling. The price of black cattle and iheep, for 8 years
backward, has been, upon the whole, high ; cows and calves have fold for 51.,
61., and 7L each ; iheep and lambs for xos. and ias. each; oxen for 5 1, and
yL each, fome times 8L For the 3 laft years, the prices have abated near a
third. Poultry fell for tfd. and 7d. each, and puilets for ad. and 3d. each;
eggs fell at ad. and 3$d. the doxeu. The difference between the prices of
thefe articles at prefent, and in ancient times, cannot be accurately ascertain-
ed ; but before the year 1745, which forma a remarkable sera in the Highlands,
oxen fold for ft 1. and 50 s.; cows, with their calves, for 258., and aos., and 30s.;
and iheep, with their lambs, at> 6d», and 3 s» id. ; and other articles in pro-
portion.
From a consideration of the ciicnmiteacea of the Highlands, which, previa
au* to the X745, were in fome meafure stationary, it may be prefumed, that
during a considerable time, thefe were the ftandard prices ; but the fpirit of
commerce introduced into the S. of Scotland, operates with extended influence,
458 Statlflical Account
Among other grievances, it muft not be omitted, that th$
inhabitants in this, and the contiguous diftri&s, defcant with
melancholy declamation, on the heavy and increafing taxation
impofed by Government. Salt, leather, and iron, whether it
be, in order to increafe the revenue, they are, as it were,
farmed out, and have hecome a kind of monoply, or that an
additional tax is laid upon them 5 whatever be the caufe, they
bitterly complain of the unufual and exorbitant prices of thefe
Articles. It is pleafant to hear them obferve, that from the'
tax upon leather, in particular, they will derive one advan-
tage : it will diminifii the number of beggars* by confining
them in winter to their booths to die at ieifure, without the
trouble of expofmg them, as the Scythian Alani did their in*
firm,
and makes the prices vary here, according to the changes and fluctuations whiclj
it produces.
Male fervants receive 3I. Sterling, in the' half year, the period for which
they ufually engage ; boys, 30s. and 30s. ; and maids, 20s. and 25s. Sterling,
in the half year. The price of day's labour, to men, is 8d., tod., and is. ; and
to women 6d., and fometimes 8d. In thefe, their meat is fometimes includ*
ed, but in haryeft, thefe wages are given, exclusive of their victuals. The
advanced price of labour, is one of the grievances of which farmers chiefly com-
plain. They feel, from experience, that, in point of eafe, comfort, and inde-
pendence, the condition of fervants, is more eligible than that of their matters.
The (hort term of engagement, wages immoderately high, infpire them with a
pride, infolence, and indifference, that would frequently require a meek and
patient fpirit to brook. Nice in the choice of their food to fqaeamifluieft, it
nuft neither fall (hort, nor exceed that exact proportion of cookery, which
their appetites can relifh. Care too muft be taken, that no offence ihall be of-
fered them. They muft fleep in the morning as long, and gp to bed at night a»
£b©o, as their pleafure dictates. Expostulations are oppofed by rudenefs. If
their behaviour is dtfagreeable, their matters are at liberty to provide the m-
felves with others, againft the firft terra. And feldom do they fail to give
{Lope for this liberty. When the term arrives, then, like birds of paflage, they
change their refidence, or migrate to diftant countries. In the prefent period
«f their hiftory, in this and the neighbouring countries, they feem to be the
■qnly clafs of fubje&s who enjoy the molt, and abufe the freedom of the EngliA
Constitution.
Of KlrkmichaeU 439
firm, to the frozen Wafts of their bleak mountains. Of every
tax impofed, as felt from experience, the feller is ever fure
to avail himfelf, bj exacting doable in the price paid by the
purchafer. May not then the queftion be put, whether Poli-
ticians, and the (harp-eyed Argufies of the date, (hould not
make provifion againft this fpecies of frand. The rent of
land is no doubt confiderably augmented, but it ill not beyond
a j uft proportion to its productions. But when all the bur-
dens under which the farmer labours are pot together, the
exactions of Government, advanced price of labour, aug-
mented rents, fhort leafes, and confiderable fines, it muft be
acknowledged, that the condition of the farmer is far from
being eligible ; arid that what Virgil faid of that profeffion,
in his own time, cannot be aflerted at prefent.
O fortunatos nimium fua fi bona norint *.
Village, &c. — Tammtoul is the only village within the pre-
cincts of this pariih. It is inhabited by 37 families, without
a fiugle
• It is the lot, however, of the generality of this clafs of men, in moft parts
of the Highlands of Scotland, to be better acquainted with the reverie of the
description. To go into their houfcs, and take a view of their contents, feats
covered with duft, children pale and emaciated, parents ill clothed with care*
furrowed countenances, exhibits a ftriking picture of Bythiniari Phineus, as
defcribed by Apollenius Rhodius, whofe vidbials the harpies continually de-
voured, and left the miferable owner to hunger and defpair.
Afirmmt srqutrt %'ufm r*w§ ypfffrmt
But in equity, moderation, and humanity, his Grace the Duke of Gordon, is
as much diftinguifhed from many of the other proprietors in the Highlands, as
by his great and opulent fortune. From that rage which now prevails for co-
lonizing the country with fheep, his Grace is happily exempted, and is deter-
mined at the expiration of the prefent leafes, to difcourage a practice, that, by
an unreftrained liceafe, would foon depopulate the country of its ancient inha-
bitants, t
44$ Staiifttfcl Account
a £ogle manufacture; by which fuch a number of people?
might be fuppofed Co be able to acquire a fubfiftence. The
Duke of Gordon leaves them at full liberty, each Co purfue
the occupation mo(l agreeable to them. No monopolies are
eftabiiQied here ; no reftraints upon the induftry of the com-
munity. All of thcrri fell whilky, and all of them drink it.
When difengaged from this bufincfa, the women fpin yarn;
kife their inamoratos; or dance to the difcotdaot founds of an
old fiddle; The men, when not participating in the aohufe-
xnents of the women, fell final! articles of merchandife; or
let themfelves occasionally for days labour, and by thefe means
earn a fcanty fubfiftence, for themfelves and families. In
moulding human nature, the effeQs of habit are wonderful.'
This village, to then*, has more than the charms of a Theffa-
lian Tempe. Abfent from it, they are feized with the mal
de pais } and never did a Laplander long more ardently for hi*
fnow-clad mountains, than they ficken to revifit the barren
moor of their turf- thatched hovels* Here the .Roman Ca-
tholic prieft has got an elegant meeting-hoofe, and the Pro-
tectant clergyman, the reverfe of it; yet, to an expiring mode
of worfliip, it would be illiberal to envy this tranfierit tupe-
riority, in a country where a fucceffion of ages has witnefled
its abfurdities. A fchool is Rationed at this village; attended
by 40 or jo little recreants, all promifing to be very like their
parents *.
Antiquhiei;
* In pcrfonal refpedfc and fortune, at the head of the inhabitants, muft be
ranked, Mrs. M'Kenzie, of the beft inn, at the fign of the horns. This he-
roine began her career of celebrity, in the accommodating difpofitton of an eafy
Tirtue, at the age of 14, in the year X745. That year (aw her in a regiment
in Flanders, carefling and carefled. Superior to the littie prejudices of her fex,
fee reiinquiflied the firft object of her affection, and attached herfeif to a no.
Vie pet fonage high in the military department. After a campaign or two fpent
i» acquiring a knowledge of man/ and the world, ScothiH fSw her again ; bat
wearied
Of KirkmicbacL 441
•Antiquities, Eminent Men, &c. — No croffes, no obeliiks, no
remains of antiquity have been hitherto difcovered in this pa*
Ti(h. That it was ever vifited by the Romans, is not proba-
ble* In that expedition, in which Severus loft 50,000 men,
-as recorded by the abbreyiator of Dio Caffiug, no veftige e*«
ids that any part of his army purfued their rout through .the
mountains and defiles of Strath- ath-f bin : no marks of en*
campments arc to be feen ; there is no tradition, that either
Roman urns, or Roman coins have been ever difcovered* la
the year 17 15, a fmall fort was ere&ed in the fouthern ex-
tremity, but foon after, it was abandoned, and now lies in
jruins *•
Vol. ZH, 3 K As
wearied of the inactivity of crural retirement, (he then married, and made her
huwand enlift in the Hoyal Highlander!, at the commencement of the war in
%f$6. With him file navigated the Atlantic, and (allied forth on American
ground in queft of adventure*, equally prepared *o meat her ftiends, or encoiuv
lex her enemies, in the fields of Venus or Mart, as occanon offered. At the
conclufion of that war, (he revifited her native coantrj. After a variety of
vkt&tttdes in Germanic, France, Holland, England, Ireland, Scotland, Ame-
rica, and the Weft Indies, jier anchor is now moored on dry land in the village
-of Tammtpttl. It might be imagined, that fuch extremes of climate, filth diC
cordan? modes of living, (itch afcents and declivities, Jo many ragged paths, fe
many fevere brufliej, as (he muft have ejeperienced in iter progrets through ii£t,
would have impaired her health, especially when it is confidercd,,that (be added
04 children to the aggregate of general births, befides feme homunculi that
flopped (hqrt in their paflage. Wonderful, however, at it may appear, at this
moment (he is as fit for her ufual active life as ever; and except a or 3 grey hairs
vegetatiog from a mole upon one of her cheeks, that formerly (at off a high
ruddy complexion, (be ftill retains all the apparent frefcneis and vigour oi
youth.
• The great road that paffes through the country, 40 facilitate the march of
the troops between Perth and Fort-George, was not made till the year 1754 :
and now the ftages are fo bad, that few travel it. The roads here, in general,
are wretched beyond description ; and yet the people, in terms 0/ the (tatute,
are annually called out to work at them. This only can be imputed to their
fpdolcnre, their want of the neceflary implements, and the ignorance, or i*-
dUTorcftjce
442 Statifiica! Account
As far as tradition can be depended upon*' no battle, nor
Ikirmifti of confluence, ever happened in this country. The
only one mentioned, was fought between Macdoliald of the
Ifles, and an Alexander Stewart, chief of that name. The
Former, with the greateft part of )}is men, was killed, and
from the carnage of that day, the place is ftill called Blar
jian Mairbh, the mofs or field of the dead *.
If any perfons of eminence were ever born in this diftriS^
time has fwept them from its annals. But, if fuch there have
been, Mr. George Gordon of Foddaletter, is juftly entitled
to be ranked in the number. This gentleman's abilities rofe
beyond that mediocrity, which fometimes acquires celebrity
without the poffeflion of merit. As a chymift and botanift,
his knowledge wa* considerable ; and tjiis knowledge he ap-
plied to the extenfion of the ufeful arts. At an early period^
pf life, he difcovered, tha,t by a certain preparation, the ex-
crefcence of the ftones and rocks of the mountains, forms a
beautiful
difference of the perfons appointed to fuperintend them . No good roadt can
be expected according to the prefent mode of management. To effect this, a
commutation is abfolutely necefTary. On the river Ath-fhin, there is a bridge,
where it is crofted by the great road. Two other bridges, one at Delvoran, and
one at Delnacairn, a little E. of the kirk, would prove eflentially ufefnl, as
they woald facilitate the water-courfe, which at prefent is frequently inter,
rupted, and render the communication fafe and commodious. Another upon
Ailnac at Delnabo, and one upon Conlafs at Ruthven, would alfo be very ne-
ceflary.
• Cafual rencounters have frequently happened. Manflaughter, murder, and
robbeiy, at a period not very remote, form a diftinguiihing feature in the cha-
racter of the Highlanders. But from the detail of fuch fceues of barbarity, the
human mind turns away«vith horror. One inftance, however, it may not be
improper to mention : In the year 1575, foon after the eftablifliment of the Re-
formation in Scotland, a prieft who had refufed to marry the uncle to the niece,
was feized by the ruffian and his party, laid upon a faggot, bound to a ftone,
and in this manner burnt to death. The remembrance of this attrocious deed
is (till preferred in the name of the ftone, which to this day, u called Clach-aat*
Jhagairt, or the Prieft's Hone.
Of KirkmicbatL 443
beautiful purple dye. It is palled in the Gaelic, crottal, from,
trot, a bunch, and eil, a rock. He e reded a manufacture of
it at Leith. At that place, in i/6j< the inventor died, much
regretted.; while his mind was teeming with various and orU
gin a] projects for the improvement of his country *.
3 K a Stature^
* As a contra ft to the above gentleman, niay be mentioned James an Tuim,
or James of the Hill. His real name was Grant, and the nephew of Grant of
tiarron, * gentleman, of property. • While: a very young* ban, he committed
manslaughter at Elgin. Being rigoroufly profeeuted, be "betook bimfelf to .to*
hills and woods of this country for fhelter. From that wandering kind of lif«
to which necefiity had reduced him, he foon became noted for addrefs, ftrata-
gem, activity, and thofe talents tnat are the reliift of the fchool of adverfity.
In coufequence of the fuccefs attending fome of his folitary adventures, a band
«f defperadoes belonging to this parith; attached tfcemfelves to his4 fortunes; un*
der his conduct, they became the terror of the furrounduig countries, till a*
length embracing a wider range, their Iavvlefs depredations drew the attention
of the parliament of Scotland. A confiderable reward was offered for appre-
hending him. A gentleman of the nan>e of r^acintolh undeitook the achieve-
ment. By corrupting the landlord of a^rfinn, which Jame* an Tuim frequent-
ed, he expected to accomplish his puxpofe ; but an hour or two before the
time concerted for the perfidy, fuch was the intelligence of the freebooter, that
he came with his party to the houfe, forced away the landlord, and hung him
to ail apf>le-tree, that marked fhe march of the contiguous parifh. There 2s a
letter ftill extant at Cattle-Grant, written by the Privy Council, thanking the
laird of that name for having apprehended him. Imprifoned in the caftle of
Edinburgh; his wonted prefence of mind did not defcrt binr. His wife came
to vifit him in his confinement, and brought a kit full of ropes with her, cover-
ing the furface with butter. By the aid of this machinery, James an Tuim made
his efcape. He went over to Ireland, where having killed one of the mail for-
midable freebooters of that country, Lord Antrim, as a reward, procured him
a pardon from the Crown ; and having returned to this country, he died a na-
tural death. Such frequently is the exit of the profligate, as well as the virtu-
ous, with refpect to this world. A ftanza is ftill recited in this country, dcr
fcriptive of his character, according to the fiandard of excellence that prevail-
ed at the time.
'Ta mo ghradh 's thar gach duinne
Air S hennas an Tuim',
' Ruidh
444 ' Statiftical Account
Stature, fcc. — Many have aflerted, that in fize and ftatnre^
the people of modern times, have decreafed considerably fronv
that of their ancestors. The calculations of a Mr. Hennao*
of the French Academy, npon this fnbje&, are curions and:
eccentric. This gentleman afferts, that Adam meafared lay
feet, and Eve ii8. To what diminutive dwarfs is die pre-
fent generation dwindled down, in coroparifon of thefe vene~
xdble prototypes of the human race. If this account were
true, die fable of Tithonus fltould have been realized long:
ago } and before this period, we nraft have been reduced to sv
fixe left than that of the grafs-hopper. But laying afide the
chimeras of cenje&ure, every old man in this diftrid can re-
eolkft the time when many of the inhabitants were ftronger,
bigg*** mA more robaft than at prefent *. In this and the
ferroundiflg countries, the mean fixe may be about 5 feet 7
inches*
ftuidfc in, UnttA thu, *§ dTuhfaA fa eruinn,
♦S chuireadh tm tfeun-fhir, a bhlr am buinn,
'S cha d' ffcaimich riamh d mhifoach, do
Thappa', na d' loam.
*" Above all oAeny Jaawa of the Hill is the obje& of my attention, expet*
m ruumAg, in leaping* and dancing, and in overcoming the brave in wreftlkig,.
Them art the obja& of my fecret atte&oa." Such aocompliuments, under the
direction of an enlightened reafon* might have converted the freebooter into a
* Some little difference may be accounted for, from the operation of natural
caafci. When the feafons were more favourable, the population left crowded,-
when neither a heavy taxation, augmented rents, nor conftaat labour cnUbei
4fce body, nor enfeebled the mind ; there is no abfurdky in fuppofing, that in
Jacfc ckcumltanceai men' might have attained to a fuller growth and dcvelope*.
•osent of nature. The tree planted in a kindly toil, ftrikes a ftronger root, and
breads more verdant branches, than that of the.defert, Hinted in it* vegetable
nutriment, and afiailed by the Malts from the N. And it is remarkable, that
in that rank of fociety, that is, neither on the one hand, opprcfled by poverty,*
nor on the other, pampered with luxury, the fymmetry of the human form, i*»
the moll beautiful and perfect.
Of Khrkrmchacl 445
inches. There are 3 individuals in this pttiiffi above 6 feet »
*3> 5 fct* 10 inches j. and fome of them 5 feet tl indies *
•here are many who meafure 5 feet 8 inches in height.
Means <^ Improvement .^Frttti the geogrephieel view of
this country, it will occur to the attentive obferver, that the
condition of (he inhabitants appears to- admit of little me*
lioration. For the improvements of agriculture and manuv
fcdurcs, the country is HI calculated* Till the country b+
encfofed, artificial grafs cannot be raifed f and enclofitre*
would be attended with an expenfe difproportiooite to their
tircumftances, as the farms* are broken and difcontigttous y
befides, that to foeceed in this branch of husbandry, they
would be obliged to difpenfe with (beep* at grefent their ftaplo
eotttmodity. Upon the fuppofition that fueh a ehange iheuld
happen* as the people are far from the market, graft would,
become a drug upon their hands; and to febftitute it in place
of ftraw for provender, would not indemnify them for the
expenfe. Such reafoning may be fallacious, but it is their
own, and hitherto has determined them to follow the pradice
•f their anceftors, to which they have invariably adhered, ex-
cept in the articles of turnips and potatoes. OF thefe, they
raife a confiderabk quantity, what may be equal to two
months of the annual confuoiption of the whole iababU
tants.
Manufaffmrtt. — In this parifii, there are 4 mills ; the mul*
tures of tbefe together, will fcarce amount so 80 bolls of
meal, and this quantity multiplied by 5a, the proportion paid
tto each, will make the whole quantity of vidua! raifed in
the country 2560 bolls.. When this number is divided by
mvj6 individuals, it will be found, that each will have little
more to live upon, during the. year, than a bolls of meal ; be-
fides,
44$ Staiijikal Account
fides, that from the whole quantity of vi&ual, as mentioned;
above, foreign beggars fabtra&, at a moderate calculation^
60 bolls. No manufactures of any kind have as yet been,
efiabliihed in this country; and the prefumption is, that a con-*
fiderable time muft elapfc before fuch au event can happen *•
. Learned Profe]Jtons*+—A\\ retainers to the law, except ono
{heriff-officer and three conft ablet, if they can be claficd a-r
mong that fpecies of men, feel this country rather coty foe
their refidence* Never was the folemn brow of a Jul! ice of
Peace feen in the pariih of Kirkmichael, before lali aptumn*
At that time, two gentlemen, natives, were inualled in the
office. Nor is there any danger like the poor moemaker and
tailor, that they will not find fufficiem employment. A tpi-
rit of litigation, during many years ago, has prevailed among
the people. Unfortunately for them, this fpirit was original-
ly imported by ftrangers, perfons whom the courtefy of the
country dignified with the name of gentlemen, but as much
entitled
* Precluded from an cafy communication with the countries arounjl, living
in the mid ft of hills and fc altered defiles, at the dhtance of 40 id e if u red miles
from the neareft fea-port, the fituation of the people is very unfavourable for
fuch an attempt ; beGdes that, they have few materials to work upon. Theit
cattle and (heep, the ftaplc commodities, are driven to the S., and fold there,
and their wool raw and un wrought, to the low countries of Banff and Moray-
mires. Even fliould that fpirit of entcrprife roufe them, it could not be of
long duration. The difficulty of getting fuel where the centre of the country
lies far from mofies, the dearnefs of provifions where the land feldom produce*
a fufficiency to fopport its inhabitants, would dampen their efforts, as they
would foon experience the manifeft advantage of others over them, in the com-
petition of the diltant market. Before the year J 745, that sera of innovation
in the Highlands, every one almoft m this country, like the famous Crufoe, was
his own artifan. No later than laft fummer, a fhoemaker from Edinburgh, and
a tailor from Dundee, were obliged to defert the country for want of employ-
ment. Where there are almoft no handicraftunen, there can be no apprcaticca,
In a country fo remote from that element, there can be no (cameo.
1 Of Kirkmicbael. 447
entitled to that character as a Ruffian tear. Now, at a ati»
hnal fairs held at the village of Tammtoul, one may fee the
law- fed vampers walking in confeqtrential ftate, attended by
their clients, while words fweet as honey from their lips
fliftil. But this honey, in the ifTue, never fails to change into
gall, to fome one or other of the contending parties *. Medi-
cal gentlemen are feldom called to this country. Mountain
air, and con flan t e^ercife, render their aid, for the moll part,
unncceJTiry ; befides that, the people can ill afford to pay doc?
tors and retainers of the law at the fame time,
Animals*— The domcfticated animals here, have no pecu-
liarity to diftinguHh them from fuch as may be met with al,
moil in every other part of the Highlands. Thefe have been
jlefcribed already. The wild ones are deer, foxes, badgers^
polecats, otters, and hares. In former times the ravenous
wolf f, and the bounding chamois, were numerous in the.
prampian mountains \. As a proof of this, it may not ba
unacceptable
* The gentlemen of the law may be offended at the fuggsftion, but it is
much to be defired, that proprietors would interpofe their authority, by ap-
pointing fenfible and impartial men to decide upon the differences arifing a-
roong their people. Such, or the like expedient, might preferve induftrious fa.
mi lies from ruin, and the unwary parents, from the dangerous imposition of
pettyfoggers.
\ The laft faid to be killed in this country, was about 150 yean ago; yet it
is probable that wolves were in Scotland for fome time after that period, as the
laft killed in Ireland was in 1700.
% It has been already mentioned, that the Grampian mountains bound this
Dirifh toward the W. From this country they ftretch in a continued range, al-
rooft without interruption to the Corran of Ard-gothar, where Invernefsfhire
is divided from ArgylHhire, by an arm of the Diu-caledonian fea. Din-Caledo-
nian is derived from Tail, a body of water, and Cael-dome, the Celtic men.
This word the Romans inflected into Caledonia. Mr. Whitakcr of Manchcfter,
fays, that diu figriifies water. In the Caledonian dialect of the Celtic, at pre-
fent, fuch a word fignifying water, is not known ; yet, fuch a word may be fop-
pofed\
44' Statfflical Account
unacceptable to the curious reader, to fubjotu a paJTage from
44 Barclay de Regno, et Regali poteftate," defcribing a lingular
Jtiod of hunting feaft9 with which the Earl of Atholl enter-
tained Mary Queen of Scots *.
Im
.pofed to have exifted formerly, as it may ft ill be traced in the name of fotne
drivers. The Caledonian Tea, according to the Alexandrian geographer, extend-
ed from the Mull of Galloway to Faro Head. Afwraw, fays he, wJtop* mp-
* " Anno/' fays be, " 1563, Coves Atholiac ex tegio fanguine princcp\
venationem ingenti apparatu et magnis fumptibus, optirae atque illuftriflimsc
rcginae Scotiae exhibuit, cui ego tunc adolefcens intereci. Cujufmodi venationem
.Tegiam noftraies' appellare (blent. Habebat autem comes ad duo millta Scotoma
montanonim, quosvot hie Scotos fyhreftrcs appeUatis, quibus negotiusa<dod*i
lit cervos cogerent ex fylvis et montibus Athqliae, Badenachae, MarrisB, Mora*
vise, atiifque yicini* regionibus ; at que ad locum agerent venationi deftinatum.
Illi vero, ut funt valde pemices et expediti, ita dies noclcfque concurfarunt, 11*
intra birnefifis tempus amplius 2000 cervorum, cum damis et capreb trmim ia
.locum oompulecint : quos rogins*, principibufque in vmUe eonfidentsbus, et cm-
teris qui .una aderant omnibus vifeudos venandofque propofuerint. Scd tea
jnihi crede, omnes illi cervi, velut agmine compofito incedebant. Hssret enim,
hasrebitque fern per id animo fpe&aculnm meo, tit ducem unum et recto-
rem eemews prteeuntem, quern alii quoquo iret fuWequebantur. Is autem,
cervus eat forma pwfcanti et cornibua, iagen* qua ex re no* roediocrem)
ammo cepit voluptatem ; ccpit max et timorem, ubi ad earn Atholius, qui -ta-
iibus a pueritia venationibus auuevtrat, vide* inquk ducem ilium cornigerojn,
qui turmam pneit? periculum nobis ab illo eft. Si enim aliquis eum furor, ti-
morve ab ifto montis dorfo in hanc planitiem compulcrit noftrum fibi quifque
prefpiciat ; nemo certe ib injuria tutus erit : quandoquidem cssteri eum feqnen.
tur confbrtim, et viam, fibi ad hunc, qui a tergo eft mentem nobis proculcatis
ftatim aperient. Cujus fententis* veritatem alius illico cventus patefecit. Laxa~
tu» enim reginsa j una atque immiflv* in Jupum infignis admodum atque fcrox
cards fugientem infequitur, ita cervum ilium du&oxem exterruit, ut retro wide
venerat fugam capeJTeret : cunctique cum eo regrefla eruperunt ea parte, qua
montanomm corona ar&iwm& cingebantur, ipjb vero montsnis nihil fpei, nihijl
perfugii reliquum fuit, nift ut ftrati in erica pronos ie proculcari, aut practcriri
paterentur ; quorum nonnaUos eenri tranfiiiendo ▼ulncranuit, alterum quoque
aut tcrtium percmerunt, ut ftatim regince nuueiatum fuit. fit vero ita glome-
jTati eiaJuTent omnes, ni homines illi venatus .peri^ffimi ipfes e* vcftigio fecuti
Of Kirkmicbacl 449
In thefe mountains, it is qflerted by the country people,
*hat there is a fmall quadruped which they call famh. In
fummer mornings it iffues from its lurking places, emitting
a kind of glutinous matter fatal to horfes, if tbey happen to
eat of the grab upon which it has been depofited. It is fome-
what larger than a mole, of a brownifti colour, with a large
head difpropoprtionate to its body. From this deformed ap-
pearance, and its noxious quality, the word feems to have
been transferred to denote a monfter, a cruel mifcbievons per-
fon, who, in the Gaelic ' language, is ufually called a famh-.
f hear. Other quadrupeds once indigenous to the Grampian
mountains are now extinA, and no?r known only by name 5
Inch as the Torc-neimh, or wild boar *, an loo, or the bifon.
Lizards, and ferpents, may be frequently met with, and,
of the latter, different fpeciefes, fome of them ftriped and
variegated, others black and hairy. It is a curious fad, that
goats eat ferpents, without any prejudice from, their bite.
Hence, it has palled into a proverb, cleas na gaoithr githeadh
na nathrach, " like the goat catiog the ferpent," importing a
querulous temper in the ipidft of plenty, Incredible as this
fa& may appear, it may not be improbable. Goats are ani-
mals that feed much upon plants and herbs ; and upon the
fuppofition that the bite of ferpents were more poifonous than
what they are known to be in our northern latitudes ; yet,
by an inftin& of nature, goats might be led to have re-
Vol. XII. 3 L courfe
arte quadam extreme* ab ipfo agmjne diftraxuTent, qui mpx rtgitm et nobilium
canibus in proedam ceflere. Confetti autem eo die fuernnt circiter 360 cum 5 lupis
et capreis aliquot.**
* It has been afierted by ibme antiquaries, that the bear was never a na*
live of Scotland. It is a fact, however, well vouched, that during the refi*
deuce of the Romans in Britain, bears were fent from it to Rome and baited
there. In an ancient Gaelic Poem afcribed to Offian, the hero Dermis) is fairf
IP have been killed by a bear on fieinn Ghielleinn in Perthihire,
45 o Stalifticat Account
courfe to fuch plants and herbs as are an antidote againft their
bite *.
Wood,
* la confirmation ef this fuppofition, there is a pleafant little ftory told in
elegant Latinity, by Vanier the Jcfuit. It will not perhaps be altogether a di-
greffion to cite the Yerfes.
Muftela didicit quondam monftrante colony
TabifiCos, quid futa valet ferpentis ad idhis.
Ilk relu&antem cum »«e lacefleret anguem ;
InTecTis quoties membrii lethale veaenum
Hauferat, ad rutam fugiens, tacluque falubri
Occulte medicans, non fegnior ibat in hoftem,
Rufticus eacelfo rem demiratus ab agro,
Avuh%, qtfse ftrfa flirt, radktbue hcrbtm
AbftuHt ; e^aiwmb cadit heu ! muftela veneno
Tnrgida «am toto retain dum qu^ritat agro,
Intima corda fubit, jam non medicabile virus.
After this.cajfual majuier, many of the medicaments of modern pharmacy,
have been originally difcovered.
There is alfo a fmall kind of reptile called bratag, covered with a downy-
hair, alternately fpotted into black and white; if cattle happen to eat it, they
generally (well, and fomethjaes die. It has the fame efied upon flnttp. The
>ird» in- this partfh ire of the fame genus and fpecies with thofe of the neigh-
bouring countries; fuch as moorfowl, partridges, wild duck, crows, magpies
wood pigeons, hawks, kites, owls, herons, fnipes, king's fifher, fwallows, fpar-
rows, blackbird, and thruih. In the higher hills, are ptarmagans. In the fteep
and abrupt rocks, of Gknawti, tht eagle bailds its eyty ; and during the
Utter end of 4>rio& and beginning ef fummer, is very deftrudive to kida*
lambs, and fawns. Some of the more adventurous lhepherds, watching them
at this feafon of depredation, frequently fcale the rugged rocks, where they
nettle, and (hare with their young in the fpoil. Till of late years that his fe-
qiteftered haunts have been dtfturbed by the iotrufion of more Mififefous flocks
of flieep, the black cock, or gallus Scoticatnts, was vta&t to hail the daw* of
. the vernal morning amidft the heaths of this country. If, like \ht feathered
tribe in JEfop, this fine bird could articulate, he might coraplam with the Pact,
" Nos patriam Rigimus, et dulcia linquimus arva.** ' Now he has tied to Stratfc-
fljey, where the numerous and extenfive woods afford him a'feenre retreat. The
black cock is well defcribed by Leflie, m his Hiftory of Scotland. «* Alia •♦is,**
(ays he, •• eft etiam in hi* regionibas numerofe, fvperiarc minor [Ac cape*.
coiUel
bf kxrhrikbati 45 i
tVood, Shrubs, Herbs, &c.— At a period perhaps not yery
gemote, this country was covered with wood. In the hill*
and mofles by which it is bordered, fir-root is fouad in fuch
abundance* that it fupplies the inhabitants with a warm and
luminous light during the tedious nights of winter. Fre-
quently large trunks of the fir are found at a confiderabl*
depth below the furface. Occupied in this employment, many
of the porter people drive the root to the low country, from
which they bring meal9 iron, fait, and other articles in ex-
change 5 and by this mode of ioduftry* earn a precarious fub-
fiftence for them&lves and families during the fummer fea-
fons. No fir-wood, however, at prefent exifts, except a few
Scattered trees in the fouthern extremity, upon the banks of
the Avon. The only woods to be feen, are birch and alder;
and tbcfe covering but a fmall extent of ground. Till of late,
groves of alder, in which were trees of pretty large dimen-
fions, grew, in Several places along the banks of the river,
but now they are almoft cut down, and will foon be totally
tonfumed. Thefe, with a little hazel, thorns, haw-thorns,
holly, willows, and mountain-alb, are the, only fpecies of
wood that Dili remain. Indigenous ihrubs of different kindd
grow wild in the hills, that carry fruit, fuch as wild ftraw-
3 L 2 berries,
coille] birfutis pedibus, palpebris rubricantibus ; nofiri gallum nigrum tefijuo-
rum appellitant." The caper-coille, once a native here, is now totally extinlt,
and known only by riame. He continued in Strathfpey till the year 1745. The
iaft feen in Scotland, was in the woods of Stratbglas, about $% yeart ago.
If the fwallow may be excepted, the cuckoo' and lapwing, M firing its echoes
with unvaried cries/' arc the only migratory birds that pay their annual vifite
to this country ; and after a Ihort ftay, wing their flight to more genial cli-
mates. The former, feldom appears before the beginning of May, and often its
arrival is announced by cold blafts from the N., and (howers of fnow, which'
sure confidered as an aufpicious omen of the approaching fummer. This tem-
porary rigour of the weather is called by the people, glas4hiontachd as cunchy
or the heavy ftorm of the cuckoo.'
452 Statiftical Account
berries, tw6 kinds of black berries, and two of red berried
In the beginning of harveft, when thefe fruits are ripe, they
are fought for with avidity by the poorer children, to whom*
during the feafon of their maturity, they fupply a portion of
food. It is probable, that formerly, if at any time the la-
bours of the chafe proved unfuccefsful, even the men and
women2 of ancient Caledonia allayed their hunger by thefe
fpontanboutf ptodudions of nature. Dio Caffius exprefsly af-
ftrts, that our ahceftors made ufe of a vegetable preparation,
by which they repfeffed, for a time, that importunate appe-
tite. Csefar feems to allude to it in his defcription of the
Chara. The foft infle&ed Cham of the Roman, evidently points
to the Cor of the Caledonians^ Cor fignifies excellent, fuper-
eminent, a very expreffive and appropriate name, if it f up-
plied the place of food. It grows' a little below the furface
of the ground, and fpreads laterally into feveral ramifica-
tions, carrying larger or imaller knobs' according- to the foil;
and at irregular diftances. In fpring it protrudes a finali
greenifh (talk, and in fummer bears a beautiful flower, which
changing into pods, contains feed; when the root becomes in-
lipid and lofes its virtue. The country people, even at pre*%
fent, are wont to fteep it among waterr where having conti-
nued for fome days, it becomes a pleafant and nutritive
drink. Till of late that the little wood of the kind has been
better preserved, the inhabitants ufed in the month of MarcB.
to extraft a liquid from the birch, called* fion-na-uifg, a
bheatha, which they confidere& as very falubrious and condu-
cive to longevity. By an eafj_ metaphor, the name has been
transferred to denominate that well known fpirit diftilled
from malt; but a, fpirit of different efie&s in its confluence.
It
. * The Wine or water of the birch, or the water of l^e» in aUafion to iu fiu
kbrity.
Of KifkmicbatL # j
tt tuty not perhaps be improper to obferve, that a tradxJ
tion prevails among the Highlanders, that together with thefe*
the Pi&s were acquainted with the art of extra&ing a deli-
cious beverage, from heath, and of an intoxicating qualitj.
Except to make a yellow dye, the uies of this flirub at pre*
fent, are unknown. But there is a probability, that in An*
guft, when it carries a beautiful purple bloom, if it were
cropped in fufficient quantities, what is now confidered as a
fi&ion, might, by proper fkill, be realized ; for, at that fea-
fon, it emits fragrant and honied effluvia *.
Languagtm
* The writer of this ftatiftical article is not fo well acquainted with the
fcience of botany, as to be able to enumerate the various plants and herbs that
grow in this diftrict. He believes few uncommon ones are to be met with;
unlets among the Grampian mountains, which might afford a rich field of ob*
fervation to the naturalift. The plant called an dubh-chofach, black footed, or
maiden hair, is frequently gathered among the woods and rocks, and ufed as a
tea in afthmatic complaints. Another plant grows in feveral parts of the parilb,
and rifes on a ftaJk near a feet in height. It fpreads into fmaU branches, with
gaarp-pointed leave*,of a pale green, and bears a pretty large berry, red at firft*
but changing into a livid hue as it ripens. Perhaps it may be the folanum
fomaiferum of the hiftorian Buchanan, by the aid of which, infufed in the
drink, and mixed with the meat prefented by King Duncan to the Danes, he
and his generals gained a decifive victory over that barbarous people. This
Wiry is (till confidered as poifonous by the country people, and they caatioufly
abftain from it.
Modern feeptie'rim rejects the above pafTage of the hiftory, and confiders it as
fictitious; but in ancient times when the wants of the inhabitants were few,
gratified from the fpontaneous productions of the field, or the beafts of the fo-
reft ; as they lived almoft conftantly in the open air, climbing ragged moun-
tains, or plunging into woody dales ; they mnft neceflkrily acquire a confider-
able knowledge of plants and herbs, together with their various and fpocific
qualities : befides that agriculture being in a rude ftate, and many of the pre.
fent domefticated animals unknown, owing to thefe caufes, the vegetable race
Would arrive a*. a higher degree of perfection, and their virtues would confe-
quently operate with more energy and effect. In the lift of plants, muft be.
reckoned the feamrog, or the wild trefoil, in great eftimation of old with the
Druids. It is ftUl confidered as an anodyne in tfce difeafes of cattle : from this
circumiUaCD
4$4 Statiftical Accoknt
. ' Language. — The common idiom of this country, is t disu*
left of the ancient Celtic, which in remote ages pervaded the
fouthern and weftern regions of Europe ; and together with
the Gothic, divided this quarter of the globe into two radi-
cal and diftinft languages. Though the latter, owing to the
better fortune of the people who fpoke it, has prevailed over
the former, jet may a cofcfiderable portion of the roots of
Several modern languages be traced to a Celtic original. This;
however, is not the place for Aich difcuffions. The dialed
fpoken in this country is growing daily more corrupted, by
the admiffion of Anglicifms, and a number of terms unknown
to the fimple arts of the ancient Highlanders. Such is the
folly or bad tafte of the people, that they gratify a prepofter-
ous vanity from this kind of innovation. It may therefore
be well fuppofed, that the language is upon the decline ; that
the harmony of its cadence is gradually changing, and the
purity of its ftru&ure mixing with foreign idioms. Thft
young people fpeak Gaelic and Englifh indifferently, and
with equal impropriety. Their uncouth articulation of dis-
cordant words and jarring founds, refembles the mufick of
frogs in a Dutch canal, harfh and difguftihg to the Attic ear
of a genuine Highlander. * Some of the old people fpeak the
Gaelic, and confequently with a degree of propriety. On
fubje&s of common occurrence, they are at no lofs for ex-
preffion in well chofen and natural language. Hence, it may
be inferred, that the parifh of Kirkmichael fpoke the fame
dialed of the Celtic that is now fpoken in Badenoch, making
allowance for Come little difference, in point of pronunciation*
In
4
circumftance it has derived its name. Seisin, in the Gaelic, fignifying pacw
£ck and Toothing. When gathered, it is plucked by the left hand. The pexw
fen thus employed, mutt be filcnt, and never look back till- the bufineft be sV
nifhed.
Of KirkmkbacL 455
In terms defcriptive of the objefts of nature and local fixa-
tions ; in the names of the feafons of the -year, of mountains,
lakes, brooks, and rivers, their language is as juft and ap-
propriate as any in the Highlands of Scotland* There ^re a
few words, however, that would feem peculiar to themfelves,
but which may be traced to the parent Celtic ; fome words
are ufed by them metaphorically and not unappofitely applied;
of the latter are brath, fignifying in the Druidical mythology,
fire, particularly the fire of the univerfal conflagration*
Brath is ufed in this country to denote a high degree of ve-
hemence and paffion. Thanig-brath-air — he was feized with
rage. When they would exprefs the impoffibility of per-
forming any thing ; they fay, cha neille linn domh a dheaun-
eatnh— no age of mine can perform it. Line in its primi-
tive acceptatibfi, fignifies a generation, but figuratively that
period of time in which a generation becomes extinft. Mane
too, in this country, is ufed to denote good fortune. Ata
mane an eifg air-— he has the luck of fifh. From this word,
the manes of the Romans have been originally derived. Ac-
cording to Varro, Manus Deus was a propitious deity with
the ancient inhabitants of Latium. Armun is another word
in ufe among the people here, efpecially in their fongs. They
borrowed it from the Hebrid Ifles. It is of Norwegian ex-
traftion, and ufed as the appellative for a hero, derived from
Arminius the celebrated hero of Germany, mentioned by Ta-
citus. Praeliis, fays that admirable writer, ambiguus, bello
non vifius. — caniturque, adhuc barbaras apnd gentes. In
this country they have ftill many proverbs, and many of them
beautiful, both with refped to language and fentiment. The
infertion, however, of one of thefe, at prefcnt, may be fuf-
ficient. Eifd, fay they, ri gaoth non gleann, gus an traogh
g$ 'huifgachaibh — Liften to the winds of the hills till the
waters
456 Statt/iical Account
waters afluage ; importing that paffion fliould be reftnumd tilt
(he voice of re*foo bp heard *•
Suptrfiitions,
* The fevexal branches of the Celtic now exifting in Europe, are a venerable
monument of antiquity. Independent of the intrinfic excellence, were all the
words contained in them digefted and formed into a dictionary, it might throw
confiderable light upon the hiftory of a people, whofe manners, cuftoma, arts,
and fciences, the revolution of ages has (hatched from authentic records. Mr.
■Gibbon in his Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire, obferves, that there is
room fcr a very interesting work, to lay open the connexion between the Ian*
guage and the manners of a people. Few languages are better calculated for
pus purpofe than the Celtic. Every one acquainted with it, and endued with
a taftc to relifli its beauties, muft acknowledge its energy and descriptive powers.
Equally adapted to melt, or to roufe, it has a ftyle appropriated to the various
paffions. Irrftead of conveying feeble ideas, it exhibits lively pictures. Sono-
rous and impreffive, when the occaion requires, it penetrates the inmoft re?
ceffes of the foul. When the Greek and Roman languages, were in their in-
fancy, the Celtic lent them its aid ; for, many words of the two former are ob-
vieufly derived from the latter. In a period then of fuch enterprise and im-
provement as the pre Pent, when philofophic cvriofity explores the remeteft cor-
ners of the globe, to enlarge the circle of human knowledge, it is fomewhat
extraordinary, that a language fo ancient, and once fo widely diffufed, (hould
be configned to its fate, without one public effort to preferve its^re^icks and
tranfmit them to poftcrity. To accomplish fuch a deferable object, would not
be unworthy of the patronage of the Highland Society of London. As that re*
fpectable body confifts of noblemen and gentlemen of independent fortunes, a
imall ftiare of the Superfluity of their affluence, might be fuccebjaiUy employed
lo arreft what ftill remains of the Celtic, and retrieve it from oblivion. Several
attempts of this kind have been made, but they have been partial and im-
perfect. There is ftill wanting a work to embrace the whole, and which
cannot be accomplished without the patronage and munificence of the great*
If the Empref* of Ruffia has fent learned men to collect and explain the jar-
gons fppken by the various tribes of barbarians inhabiting the inhofpitable Cau-
casus, fliould not fuch a liberal example engage the attention, and excite the
imitation of a more refined and civilized people ? A dictionary of the Gaelic
is now in contemplation in Argyllshire, and the letters of its alphabet are di-
vided among an equal number of clergymen ; but as thefe gentlemen are con-
fined to a particular county, and confider their own as the ftandard dialect of
the Highlands, they make little inquiry concerning the modes of fpeech that
ffevailin other countries j consequently many pure and genuine Celtic words
mo*
Of KirkmichatL 45 7
Superftitums, Gbofts, Fairies, Genii, &c.— In a ftatiftical
ac&unt, even the weaknefles of the hnman mind may afford
fame little entertainment* That ftfar and ignorance incident
to a rode ftate, have always been prodn&ive of opinions,
rites, and obfervancea which enlightened reafon difclaims.
But among the vulgar, who have not an opportunity of culti-
vating this faculty, old prejudices endeared to them by the
creed of their anceftors, will long continue to maintain their
influence. It may therefore be eafily imagined, that this
country has its due proportion of that fuperftition which ge-
nerally prevails over the Highlands. Unable to account for
the caufe, they confider the efiefis of times and feafons, as
certain and infallible. The moon in her increafe, full growth,
and in her wane, are with them the emblems of a riung,
flourifhing, and declining fortune. At the laft period of her
revolution, they carefully avoid to engage in any bufinefs of
importance ; but the firft and the middle they feize with a-
vidity, prefaging the moil aufpicious iffue to their undertak-
ings. Poor Martinus Scriblerus never more anzioufly watch*
ed the blowing of the weft wind to fecure an heir to his ge-
nius, than the love-fick fwain and his nymph for the coming
of the new moon to be noofed together in matrimony. Should
the planet happen to be at the height of her fpkndour when
the ceremony is performed, their future life will be a feene
of feftivity, and all its paths ftrewed over with rofe-buds of
delight. But when her tapering horns are turned towards
the N., paffion becomes froft-bound, and feldom thaws till
the genial feafon again approaches. From the moon, they
Vol. XII. 3 M not
muft efcape their researches, and be loft to the language ; for this reafon it
-would be neceflary that every corner of the Highlands fliould be ranfacked, and
the words peculiar to each, collected and explained. It may further be obferved
that the Celtic philologift (hould be well ikilled in the Latin and Greek Ian.
guages, and perhaps in thofe of France and Italy.
45^ Siatijlical Account
not only draw prognostications of the weather, .bat accord-
ing to their creed, alio difcover future events. There they
are dimly pourtrayed, and. ingenious illufion never fails in
the explanation. The veneration paid to this planet, and the
opinion of its influences, are obvious from the meaning ftill
affixed to fome words of the Gaelic language. In Druidic
mythology, when the circle of the moon was complete, for-
tune then promifed to be the moil: propitious. Agreeably to
this idea, rath, which fignifies in Gaelic, a wheel or circle,
is transferred to fignify fortune* They fay, " ata rath air,"
he is fortunate. The wane, when the circle is diminilhing,
and consequently unlucky, they call mi-rath. Of one that
is unfortunate, they fay, " ata mi-rath air." Deas uil, and
Tuath uil, are fynonimous expreffions, allufive to a circular
movement obferved in the Druidic worihip.
Nor i& it to the moon alone that they dired their regards ;
almoft every feafon of the year claims a {hare of their fuper-
ftition: Saimh- theinc, or Hallow Eve j Beil-teine, or the firft
day of May ; and Oidhch* Choille, or the firft night of Janu-
ary. The rites obferved at Saimh-theine, and Beil-teine, are
well known, and need not be defcribed. But on the firft night
of January, they obferve, with anxious attention, the difpo-
fition of the ataiofphere. As k is calm or boifterous; as the
wind blows from the S. or the N. j from the E. or the W.,
they prognoflicate the nature of the weather, till the conclu-
fion of the year. The firft night of the New Year, when
the wind blows from the W.,they call dar-na coille, the night
of the fecundation of the trees j and from this circumftance
has been derived the name of that night in the. Gaelic * lan-
guage.
* The opinion o; the genial and fertilizing nature of the weft wind, fo pre-
valent in many countries of- the Highlands, is one of thofe opinions that feem
u> have defended to them from t'le Diuidi. Virgil who was born in the Cif-
alpine.
Of KirkmicbacL 459
gnage. Their faith in the above figns, is •couched in the
following verfes :
Gaoth a deas, teas is torradh,
Gaoth a niar, iafg is bainne,
Gaoth a tuath, fuachd is gailinn,
Gaoth a near, meas air chrannaibh.
• ' The wind of the S- will be produ&ive of heat and fertili.
ty ; the wind of the W. x>f milk and filh ; the wind frona
the N. of cold and ftorm ; the wind from the £• of fruit on
the trees/'
The appearance of the firft three days of winter is allb
ohferered :
Dorach doirauta' dnbh,
Chead tri la do'n gheamthra }
Ge be bheire geil dhe'n chroi,
Cha tugainn 's e gu famthra.
3 M % " Dark,
alpine Gaul, and from bis fituajtion had an opportunity of being well acquaint-
ed with the do&rines of that order, has adorned his poetry with fcvcral beauti-
ful dilutions borrowed from their phiiofophic fyftem. It was the imprcffion of
the fame belief with them, of the impregnating power of the air, that influen-
ced his fancy in that fine pafiage in the Georgicks.
Turn Pater Omnipotens fsecundis imbribus .£ther
Conjugis in gnemium laetse defcendit, et omnes
Magnus alit, magno coromixtus corpore foetus.
In a fimUar ftraiu of belief, he wrote that paflag^ in the Third Georgick,
where he defcribes the effects of the weft wind in a latitude borderir% upon -Ui«
marvellous.
• ills.
Ore omnes verfse in zephyrum, ft ant rupibus altis,
Except antque lcves auras : et faepe line ullis
Cojijtigiis, lento gravidas
460 Statifiical Account
" Dark, lurid, and ftormy, the firft three days of winter ;
whoever would defpair of the cattle, I would not till fum-
mer."
The fuper^litious regard paid to particular times and fea-
fons, is not more prevalent in this country, than the belief
in the exiftence of ghofts. On the fequeftered hill, and in
the darkfome valley, frequently does the benighted traveller
behold the vifionary femblance of his departed friend, per-
haps of his enemy. The. former addrefies him in the lan-
guage of affe&ion ; if danger is approaching, he is warned
to prepare againft it, or the means of avoiding it difclofed;
By the latter, he is attacked with the vehemence of refent-
ment. The inhabitants of this, and the vifitant from the
other world, engage in furious combat. For a while, the
viSory is in fufpenfe. At length the ghoft is overthrown,
and his violence appealed : a few traits of his life upon earth
are defcribed. Tf he Hole a ploughihare from his neighbour,
the place where it lies concealed is pointed out. His anta-
gonift is requefted to reftore it to the owner ; and if he fails,
punifhment is threatened to follow the breach of promife ;
for, till reftitution be made, fo long mail the miferable cul-
prit be excluded from the regions of the happy *•
Not
* Thefe illufions of fancy operate fometimes with fuch force, that feveral*
have died in confequence of them ; and fome have been deprived of their rea-
fon. Fragments of the fpeeches of ghofts are frequently recited ; and, like the
refponfes ef the Grecian oracles, are generally coached in verfe, efpecially the
more ancient fragment?. Two of thefe it may not perhaps be improper to cite
in the original. The one is an apoftrophe from a beloved wife, to foothe the
melancholy of a defponding hufband.
Na bidhea* (fays (he) ro ghaol, 's na bidhea' math,
Agad air fluagh innh thr£ud ;
Na fmuanaigh air na chaidhe bhuait,
*S cfcuid nach teachaidh bhuait, gun deid*
« Indulge
Of KirkmcbaeU 461
Not more firmly eftabliihed in this country, is the belief
in ghofts, than that in fairies. The legendary records of
fancy 9 tranfmitted from age to age, have affigned xtheir man*
fions to that clafs of genii, in detached hillocks covered with,
verdure, fituated on the banks of purling brooks, or fur-
rounded by thickets of wood. Thefe hillocks are called fioth-
<$hunan, abbreviated fioth-anan, from fioth, peace, and dun,
a mound. They derive this name from the praftice of the
Druids, who were wont occafionally to retire to green emi-
nences to adminifter juflice, eftablifli peace, and compofe
differences between contending parties. As that venerable
order taught a Saoghl hal, or world beyond the prefent, their
followers, when they were no more, fondly imagined, that
feats, where they exercifed a virtue fo beneficial to mankind,
were ftill inhabited by them in their difembodied flate. In
the autumnal feafon, when the moon fhines from a ferene
Iky, often is the wayfaring traveller arretted by the mufick
of the hills, more melodious than the ftrains of Orpheus,
charming the ihades, and reftoring his beloved Eurydice to
the regions of light.
Cantu commotSB Erebi, de fedibns imis,
Umbrae ibant tenues.
Often
M Indulge crcefc neither of joy nor grief toward frail mortal* ; dwell not on
the remembrance of the dead ; for thefe that now are, muft foon depart."
The other is a ftanza dcfcriptWe of the unembodied ftate, anof fuppofed to be
uttered by a ghoft, not unlike that of Patroculus in Homer.
^Pn^n tuu iAwXm armf fftm ■» in wu/urm*
Bha mi (fays he) fad an cein an roir,
W eatrom 's bu luainach mo chcim ;
*N duradan 'n gath na greine,
Gha neille connam fein do neart*
u Far diftant laft night, was my journey ; light and bounding were my fteps;
wnfabftantial as the atom in the beam of the fun, is the ftreagth of my form."
462 Statiftical Account
Often ftruck with a more folemn fcene, he beholds the vi-
fionary hunters engaged in the chafe, and purfuing the deer
of the clouds, while the hollow rocks in long-founding echoes
reverberate their cries.
Chorus aequalis Dryadum *, clamore fupremos,
Implerunt montes t-
The
* If one were allowed to indulge in conjecture, and reafon from analogy, £t
might be aflcrtcd with an appearance of probability, that the dryads and ha-
madryads of the Romans, were the fame with the druids and dmidefles of the
Celts. It is univerfally acknowledged, that the dryads of the Greeks and Ro-
mans derive their name from the Greek word J^, fignifying an oak, a&4 druid*
in the Celtic, from darach, or deni, to which the fame meaning is affixed. Ha-
madryad, is evidently derived, from oi', or oigh, a virgin, always afperated af-
ter the prefix article of the oblique cafe in the Celtic. Notwithftanding the
progreffive increafe of knowledge amd proportional decay of faperftition in the
Highlands, thefe genii are ftill fuppofed by many of the people to eaift in the
woods and fequeftered valleys of the mountains* where they frequently appear
to the lonely traveller, clothed in green, with dUhevclled hair floating over their
(boulders, and with faces more blooming than the vermil blufh of a fnramer
morning. At night in particular, when fancy affimilates to its own precon-
ceived ideas, every appearance, and every found, the wandering enthufiail i»
frequently entertained by their mufick, more melodious than he ever before
heard. It is curious to obferve, how much this agreeable detufion correfpands
with the fuperftitious opinion of the Romans, concerning the fame clafs of genii,
represented under different names. The Epicurean Lucretius defcribes the cre-
dulity in the following beautiful verfes:
Hsec toca capripede* fatyros, nymphafque tenere
Finitimi pingunt, ct faunoa effe loqmuttur ;
Quorum no&ivago Arepito, ludoque jocanti
Adfirmant volgo taciturna filentia nunpi
Chordarumque fonos fieri, dulceifque querelas
Tibia quas fundit digitis pulfata cancntum :
The fauni are derived from the eubates, or faidhin of the Celtic Faidh is a
prophet ; hence is derived the Roman word fari, to prophecy.
I There are feveral now living, who aflert that they have feen and heard
this aerial hunting ; and that they have been fuddenly furrounded by vilionary
foots, mort numerous than leaves ftrcwed on the streams of VaUumbvofa m
HoTember
Of Ktrimicbaei. 4^
The fame credulity that gives air-formed inhabitants to
green hillocks and folitary groves, has given their portion
of genir to rivers and fountains. The prefiding fpirit of that
element, in Celtic mythology, was called Neithe. The pri-
mitive of this word, fignifies to wsih, or purify with water.
In the name of fome rivers, it is ftill retained, as in > the
river Neithe of Abernethy in Strathfpey. To this day,
fountains are regarded with particular veneration over every
part of the Highlands. The fick who refort to them for
l^ealth, addrefs their vows to the prefiding powers, and of-
fer prefents to conciliate their favour. Thefe prefents gene-
rally confift of a fmall piece of money, or a few fragrant
flowers. The fame reverence, in ancient times, feems to
have been entertained for fountains by every people in Eu-
rope. The Romans who extended their worfhip to almoft
every obje& in nature, did not forget in their ritual, the
homage due to fountains. It is to this, Horace alludes in his
addrefs to his limpid fountain of Blandufia.
O fons Blandufiae fplendidior vitro,
Dulci digne mero, non fine floribus,
Cras donaberis hatdo *.
Near
November blafts, and afiailed by a multitude of voices, louder than the noife
of milling waters.
About 50 years ago, a clergyman in the neighbourhood, whofe faith was
more regulated by the fcepticifm of philofophy, than the credulity of fuperfti-
tion, could not be prevailed upon to yield his aflent to ihe opinion of the times.
At length, however, he felt from experience, that he doubted what he ought
to have believed. One night as he was returning home, at a late hour, from a
f refbytery, he was feized by the fairies, and carried aloft into the air. Through
fields of aether and fleecy clouds he journied many a mile, deicrying, like San-
cho Fanza on his Clavileoo, the earth far diftant below him, and no bigger than
a nut-fhell. Being thus fufficiently convinced of the reality of their existence,
they let him daiwn at the door of his own houfe, where he afterward often re-
cited to the wondering circle, the marvellous tale of his adventure.
* Soma modern antiquaries have affcrted, that the Celtic nations never wor-
shipped
> *y e**njtical Account
Near the kirk of this partth, there is a fountain xmcehigh-
Jj celebrated, and ancientlj dedicated to St. Michael. Manj
a patient have its waters reftored to health, and many more
have attefted the efficacj of their virtue*. But, as the pre-
siding power is fometiine* capricious, aAd apt to defert hies
charge, it now lies negle&ed, choked with weeds, vnho*
noured, and unfrequented. In better daja it was not fo ; for
the winged guardian under the femUance of a fly, was never
abfent from his duty* If the fober matron wifbed to know
the
ihipped rivers, and hid no divinities appropriated to them. Several ancient au-
thorities, however, might be adduced to evince the contrary. Gildas ezprefslj
fays, " Ut omittam,*' talking of the Britons, " montes ipfos, aut colles, tut flu.
vios, quibus diviaus honor a c«cb tunc populo cumulabatur." The vulgar in
many parts of the Highland*, even at prefent, not only pay a facred regard to
particular fountains, but are firmly perfuaded that certain lakes are inhabited
by fpirits. In Strathfpey, there is a lake (kill called Loch-nan Spioradan ; the
lake of fpirits. Two of thefe are fuppoied frequently to make their appearance,
the one under the form of a horfe beautifully caparifoned, with golden trap-
pings. 'With the bit of his bridle, the anti-conjurer of this parifli expels jea-
loufy, and cures other maladies of the mind. The other under that of a bull
docile as Jupiter wafting Suropa over the Hellefpont. The former is called,
an each uifg, the horfe of the water ; the latter, an tarn uifg, the bull of the
water. The mhaidan mhare, or mermaid, is another fpirit fuppofed to re-
fide in the waters. Before the rivers are fwelled by heavy rains, (he is fre-
quently feen, and all the attributes of a beautiful virgin afcribed to that part
of her perfon that is vifible. Her figure is enchanting, and her voice melodious
as that of the Syrens. But fair as (he is, her appearance never fails to announce
fome melancholy accident on her native element. It is always confidered as a
fure prognostication of drowning.
In Celtic mythology to the above named, is added a fourth fpirit. When the
waters are agitated by a violent current of wind, and ftreams are fwept from,
theii furface and driven before the blaft, or whirled in circling eddies aloft in
the air, the vulgar, to this day, confider this phenomenon as the eJfecl of the
angry fpirit operating upon that element. They call it by a very expreffive
name, the mariach (hlne, or the rider of the ftorm. Anvona is alio reckoned
as a divinity of the waters, derived from anfadh, a ftorm or hurricane, a com-
pound from an, a particle of privation, and feadh, ferenity, tranquillity.
&f tttrkmichatii &$
the idac of her nuflnnd's" ailment, or the iove-fick nymphs
that of her languifhing fwain, they vlGted the well of St.
Michael. Every movement of the fyrripathetic fly was re-
garded in filent awe ; smd as he appeared cheerful or dejected^
the anxious votaries drew their prefages ; their breads vU
briated with correfportderit emotions. Like the Delai Lams
of Thibet, or the King of Great Britain, whom a fidion of
the Englifh law ftfpptffea never to die, the guardian fly of the
well of St. Michael, was believed to be exempted from the laws
hi mortality. To the eye of ignorance he might fome times
appear dead) but, agfeeably to the Brnidic fyftem* it wast
only a tranfmigration into a fimilar form, which made little
alteration on the real identity **•
Afdong the branches into which the mofs-growh trunk of
fuperftition divides itfelf, may be reckoned witchcraft and
magic. Thefe; though decayed and withered by time, (till
retain fome faint traces of their ancient Verdure. Even a£
J>refentj witches are fuppofed* as of old, to ride on broom-
fticks through the air. In this country, the 12th of May is
one of their feftivals.* On the morning of that day, they are*
frequently feen dancing on the furface of the water of Avonj
i>rulhing the dews of the lawn; and milking cows in their;
fold. Any uncommon fickncfs is generally attributed td
their demoniacal practices; They make fields barren of fer-
VcfL. XII. 3 N ttiet
* Not liter then ft fortnight ago*, the writer of this .fictotffit wis" much etii
iertaincd, to hear ah' old man lamenting With regret, the degeneracy of the
times; particularly the contempt ra wbfcji ohjc&s of former venWatio'n were
held by the unthinking crowd; If the infirmities' of years; and the di&ance o'
his refiderice did not prevent him, he would ftill pay his devotional vifits to the
well of St. Michael. Hft would Clear the bed of its ooze, open a paffage fqt
the ftresftnlet, plant the borders with flagrant flowers ; and once more, as ift
the d&Jtf of y«utb, enjoy the pkafqge of feeing the guardian fly flcim in fporti*€
circles over the b»bblmjjf wave, ami with its tittle piotofcis, imbibe the Pan**
466 Statiftieal Account
tile, raife or ft ill whirlwinds, give or take away milk at
plcafure. The force of their incantations is not to be re-
fitted, and extends even to the moon in the midft of her
aerial career. It is the good fortune, however, of this coun-
try to be provided with an anti-conjurer that defeats both
them and their fable patron in their combined efforts* His
fame is widely diffufed, and wherever he goes, crcfcit eunda.
If the fpoufe is jealous of her huftand, the ami-conjurer ia
eonfulted to reftore the affections of his bewitched heart.
If a near connexion lies confined to the bed of ficknefs, it
is in vain to expeft relief without the baUamick medicine
of the anti-conjurer. If a perfon happens to be deprived of
his fenfes, the deranged cells of the brain muft be adjufted
by the magic charms of the anti-conjurer. If a farmer
lofes his cattle, the houfes muft be purified with water
fprinkled by him. In fearching for the latent miichief, this
gentleman never fails to find little parcels of hetrogeneous
ingredients lurking in the walls, confiding of the legs of
mice, and the wings of bats \ all the work of the witches*
Few things feem too arduous for his abilities ; and though,
like Paracelfus, he has not as yet boafted of having dif-
covered the Philosopher's flone $ yet, by the power of his
occult feience, he ftill attracts a little of their gold from
the pockets where it lodges ; and in this way makes a ihift
to acquire a fubfiftence for himfelf and family. What Dry-
den faid of Shakefpear, may, with propriety, be applied t»
him:
" Shakefpear's magic could not copied be ;
. " Within that circle none durft move but he."
If the fhort limits of a ftatiftical effay permitted, mom
juftice might be done to this lingular character, but, expede
HercuUm;
Of KirkmicbaeL 467
TJerculem ; the outlines already given, will enable fancy to
draw the portrait.
Dre/i. — Since the year 174 s, there is a considerable change
on the drefs of the people of this di ft rift. 8/ a lingular kind
ef policy, as if rebellion lurked ia the lhape and colour of a
coat, at the above period, the ancient drefs was proscribed
mnd none durft wear it without running the rife of a rigor-
ous profecution. It was confequcntly fuperfeded by the Low
Country .drefs. To the ancient braces, or truifli* arid belted
plaid, fucceeded ft rait Vetches, aad an awkward coat of a
uniform colour ; fome times a long furtout dangling down to
the heels, encumibring the freedom of motion. The barbac-
ons policy of Edward the Firft, did not more cffe&ually de-
ftroy the fpirk of the indignant Welfh, by the murder of
their bards, than the prohibition of their ancient garb, that
of the poor Highlanders. In the enthufiafm of patriotifm,
Mr. Frafer of Lovat got the prohibitory aft repealed, in or*
der, according to his own emphatic words, " to divert the
minds of the people from Transatlantic notions." Let meta-
physicians, if they choofe, trace the connexion. But, though
this refpe&able gentleman, with the view of making them
good fubrjefts, procured liberty to die Highlanders of expofing
iheir naked pofleriprs to the north wind, on their bleak
mountains, few have availed therofclves of the privilege.
Habit reconciles tfcem tp the prejfent, and they feem to have
no defire of Tefuming their ancient garb. The blue bonnet,
however, with the exception of fome round h»tt» Hill main-
tains its,ground, Siipe the year 174^5, the women too, like
the men, hewe altered conficjerably in their apparel. Before
jhat period, they wore fomerimes white blankets covering
£ Xruiflt top truia, or drcft.
468 Statiftical Account
their head*, fometiraes their ftouldcrs, drawn forward by
their hands, furrounded on' ekch fide fay a ff»Jd. Tbefe, as
fafljipn varied, were fucceeded by barred plaids, of blankets,
where different colours blended, eroding each other at right
angles, fomewhat diftant, and bearing a fquare fpace in the,
middle. Wearied of barred plaids, they betook themf elves
fo Stirling ones, add now duffle cardinals begin to have the
pfcendanf. Formerly their hair flowed in eafy ringlets over
their fhoulders j not many years ago, it was bound behind in-
to a cue, 99 w it fprcads into sr protuberance on the forehead,
Supported by cufhions ; fometimes, it is plain, and fplit iq
the middle. Hut who can defcribe the caprice of female or-
nament more various than the changes of the moon !
Manner of living. — Nojt more than 50 years ago, their
mode of living in this country was different from what it 15
fit prefent. Pi ces that were at that time wade, are now plant*
ed with inhabitants. And though fljeep, upon the whole, be
more numerous than formerly 5 yet they are chiefly the pro,
pefty of thofe who occupy the out-fkirts, and to whom the
hills and glens Jie more convenient, In the centrical places,
the farms are enlarged, at leaft as much as the nature of the)
ground can admit -f consequently the fmaller tenants are fewer,
£nd liye lefs at their eafe : but previous to the above period,
even cottagers kept a few meepf becaufe the hill pafture was
a common, and there were few of any description who did
not occasionally feed upon fleffy. But at prefent, unlefs it be
it Qhriftmast qr when inj little festivals are celebrated, the
fold is kept facrej for the market, in order to make money
fo fupply the exigencies of the "family, and fatisfy the many
demands to ^ which it is expo fed, from bad feafqns, precarious
jgtops, and increafing taxes ; befides that, the luxury oT the
timW
. Of KirkmifhatU \ifi^
rimes Jias imported into this country, inacccffible as it is Jo
jother improvements, a portion of fa&itious waotg, which
muff be gratified Fifty years ago, they ufed burnt plates p£
frfnfky, inftead of that fpir'it, which nuift now be, diluted with
warm water, and fweetened with fugar. It muit? however,
fre acknowledged, that it is feldom they indulge in this be-?
ycrage; they of tefier drink it raw and. unmixed. . It may
eafily be fuppoH^d that a plant of, fuch univerfaj confumption,
as tea, ftouldiipt be unknown to the people of this country,
few of the bettpr families are without ,it, though fpariagly
ufed ; and fqme of the otd women, even when they cannot
afford fugar, infufe it in boiling water, and drink it for their
headachs. Thefe headachs frequently return, but fortunate*
)y by the aid of fhe'grand elixir, they are fctyom of Ipng du-
ration,
tl&araBer, &c— The ,chara£er of a people never fails to
change with their phanging condition. In contemplating
fliem at the extreme points of a period of4 70 or $0 years, it
would be as difficult to recognife their identity, as that of Sir
Join Cutler's worfted ilockings, when fcarcely an atom of?
the original texture remained. Not further removed thao<
the more diftant of thefe extremes, the people of this country
were generous and hofpitable. If they were occafionally fub*
jeft to the foibles, they pqffeffed the yirtues of genuine High-
landers. If they referited injuries with vehemence and paf-
fion, their breafts felt the glow of affe&ion and friendihip.
Attached to their chieftain, they followed his ftandard where-
fever it led ; and never fhrunk from danger in the defence of
Jiis caufe : Connected with the freebooters of Lochaber, they
imbibed no inconfiderable portion of their fpirit and manners :
^Vddrefs and Jiratagem marked their enterprises ; Active a-
broa^
47& Statiftical Account
broad, they tare indolent at home : Addi&ed to depreciation,
they negle&ed the .arts of induftry and agriculture : Difen-
gaged from thofe purfuits that require vigour and exertion,
they pJMTed the vacant hour in focial enjoyment, in fong and
festivity, and in liftening to the tale of other years : Rude in
their manners, their bofoms frequently opened to the warm
impreffions of a difinterefted benevolence. The indigent and
the ftranger found: them always ready jto fympathize with
their diftrefs. What Paul the Deacon, in his barbarous
Latin, (aid of the Lombards of Italy, might be applied tt
them;
Terribilb facies, hirfutaque barba,
Sed oorda benigna foerunt *.
But, in contemplating |he nearer extreme of the above pe-
riod, a different piEhire appears. The fpirit of commerce
which, in a certain degree has pervaded every corner of the
Highlands, with its natural concomitants, avarice and felfi(h-
jiefs, has penetrated hither. In the private views of the in-
dividual, the interefts of the community are difregarded.
Cunning has fnpplanted fincerity, and diflixnulation candour :
Profeffion fupplies the place of reality, and flattery is ufed as
•a lure to betray the unwary- Obligations are rewarded by in-
gratitude ; and when the favour is paft, the benefit is no long-
er remembered. Oppofed to intereft, promifes ceafe to be
binding ; and the moft fuccefsful in the arts of deception ac-
quires the efteem of uncommon merit and abilities. It may
^therefore be fuppofed, that, in a field where .the prize is fo at-
tractive,
* A 4w«lfal cwinttaaiu*, with rough beards, bat with heart* bcacv*.
lust.
Of KtrkmlcbacL 47 1
tractive, there will be many candidates. To aid them in this
career of ambition, it muft be acknowledged, in alleviation of
their bias, that they have had models of imitation not unwor-
thy of the do&rines of a Machiavel. Unfortunately for them,
thefe models have been Grangers, and of that rank in life who
have always the mod powerful influence in making profely tea
among the vulgar.
Such are the caufes to which it muft be imputed, that there
is fo little discrimination to be obferved in the character of
the people of this country ; for, where one object is purfued*
the means of attainment will be generally uniform. Sufpend-
td between berbarifm and civilization, the mind is never fo
ftrongly influenced by virtue, as it is attracted by the mag.
netiim of vice. In this view, however, they are not Angu-
lar from their neighbours. From a combination of caufes,
particularly high taxation, and increafing commerce, avarice
and feHHhnefs muft nteceflarily conftitute a prominent feature
in the character of many. At the fame time, these may (till
be found the ufual proportion of perfons of a different charac-
ter, confpicuotts for honour and integrity, humane and bene*
volent, juft and upright in their transactions,
MifceEatuous Olfervations.— It has been obferved, that the
centrical parts of this country lie at a confiderable diftance
from mots, which is yearly diminifhing in proportion to the
confumption. From the inereafe of population, and ab the
natural woods are every where decaying, the period is ap-
proaching, when the Highlands muft fenfibly feel the difficul-
ty of procuring the necefiary accommodation of fuel. To
anticipate fuch an event, is an object that peculiarly calls for
the attention of proprietors. There are few of this defcrip-
tion ip the Highlands, who are not poffefled of confiderable
3 tracks
47* Statijtkdl Account
tracks of moof and hill. In this diftrift,- tnefc art* alt 1catt
i8,coo acres that lie barren, and at prefeht of little yalue.
This fpace of ground laid under fir, would contain, at ? mo-
derate calculation, 80,000,000 plants, exclufive 01 the fo-
teft of Glenavon, and without much injury to the pafKire,
By converting the wafte ground to this purpofe, the Sent of
the proprietors would increafe, while the farmer wouEf oe
fupplied in fuel, and materials for building FlantatfohT of
fir fo extenfive, may* appear an .arduous undertaking ; Wt'by
giving farmers long leaks, indemnifying them at rtmoraj*
appropriating a portion of the rent for flie'purp'ofe, arid va-
rious methods that might be devifed, it T might be fuccefsful-
ly carried into execution ; and when accomplimed, wottfd "be
■worthy of a great and patriotic proprietor. It has been af+
ferted, that mofs grows ; but this is a fallacy too obvious tar
le credited. Being the produftion of wootf and moiftnre, it
is well known from experience, that when the component in*«
gredients are once exhaufted, the fubftance itfelf cannot h#
reproduced. Upon the formation of mpfs, there is a curious
la& mentioned by Lord Cromarty^ and recorded in the sth
volume of the Abridgement of the Philofophical Tranfac-*
tions *.
No
w j» tin ytu 1051, fctf lordfhip being then to yea* of 4ge, he faw a-nlaai
in the parUhof Loch^ooro, covered oser with a $rm Handing wood, which
was fo old, that not only the tree* had do green leaves, but the bark was to-'
* tally thrown off, which he was there informed, by the old people, was the uni-
vetfal manner in which fir wood terminated; and that in *o or 30 tears the*
, trees would caJft themfclves up by the roots. About 1$ years afterwards, he ha*
tecafioo to travel that way, and obferved that there was not a tire, nor %kt ap*
£ear*nce of a root, of any of them ; hut that, in their place, the whole plain"
'where the wood itood, was covered with a flat green mofs, or morafs: And, on
•&ktg the country people what was become of the wood, he was anfwered,
that np one had been at the trouble of parrying it away, but that it had been
«Tertnrncd by the wind ; that the ttere lay thick over one another; and that
the-
Qf Kirkmicbotl. 4.73
No eoaphiQt fcema to be nose univerfal over the High*
lands, nor in this country in particular, thqn the incrcafing
incleaeney of the feafons. Modern pbilofophers attribute
tibia phenomenon to the vaft (hoals of ice accumulating in th*
northern fieas. But whatever be the caufe, the opinion of
the effefi prevails among the people. Since the year 1768,
they obferve, that the fummers are colder, and produ&ive of
greater quantities of rain, than was remembered in the fame
jfpace of time, during any preceding period. The aflertion,
though conjedural, appears to be founded upon probability.
Even within thefe so lad years, the beds of brooks and ri-
vers are confidently enlarged, and much of the contiguous
grounds deftroyed by die floods* The t routs, that formerly
(warmed in lakes and rivers, are exceedingly decreafcd. The
few migratory birds that vifit the country, are later in their
arrival, and fooner take their departure: The hum of th$
mountain bee is not fo frequently heard: even the infcft tribes
that fluttered in the air of a warm fuxumer, are lefs prolifick
than ufuaU Jq Grlenavon, of this parilh, are moffes, near
3000 feet above the level of the fea, full of the fix root ;
where no wood at prcfent, owing to the cold, could grow.
Some of the higheft hills in the Grampian defert, are deno-
minated from the wood which formerly grew upon them,
fuch as beinn a chaorin, the mountain of the fervice tree.
Are thefe then appearances the refult of a temporary ceffa-
tion, or has nature become more languid in her energies ?
Such, however, are the affenions of the old people, the never-
Vol. XII. 3 Q failing
the mofs or bog had overgrown the whole timber, which they added, was oc-
casioned by the moifture which came down from the high hills, and fiagnated
upon the plain ; and that nobody could yet pafs over it, which, however, his
lordibip was fo incautious as to attempt, and dipt up to the arm-pit. Before
the year 1699, that whole piece of ground was become a folid mofs, where the
aeafants dug turf or peat, which, however, was not vet of the belt fort»
474 Siatijiical Account
failing panegyrifts of the times that are elapfed. Mr. Ham*-
and the Abbe da Bois, are of a different opinion, and aflert^
that in ancient times, the feafbrw were- colder than at prefent,
but the fads adduced by thefe refpeftable writers are to*
▼ague and remote to overthrow the experience of feeling *. :
NUM.
* William the Norman, after the cqnqueft of England, purveyed that
try, and committed the adraeafurement to Doomfday Book, defigned to be a
permanent record of the nature and value of the foil ; that gradation of offices,
and thofe inftitutions which he embraced in his political fcheme. The imita-
tion of a model that might be fo conducive to promote the welfare of the great
body of the people employed in agriculture, ihpuld perhaps, with that varia-
tion required by circuraftances, be in fome meafure adopted by all the proprie-
tors in Scotland. It is well known that the value of land muft rife or fall, ac-
cording to the flourishing or declining condition of the (late. Reafon dictate*
that it is by this criterion the rents of a landlord ought to be regulated. When
at a certain term lands are to be let, and expofed, as it were to a public fale,
the higheft biddder to have the preference, it muft occur, that in fuch a colli-
sion of paffions, and jarring interefts, as muft necefiarily arife upon thofe occa-
lions, the defperate and' unprincipled wilt frequently be preferred to the honeft
and induttrious ; befides that, the rents of fome farms will be low and mode-
rate, while that of others will be high and exorbitant. To prevent, therefore*
this inequality, and to extend diftributive juftice to every individual, proprie-
tors fliould not only furvey their properties, but alfo affix a value to the farms,
according to the value of the productions at the time, and the probable conti-
nuance of that value. Every circumftance of convenience and inconvenience,
whether, with regard to fuel, the nature of the foil, and the condition of the
farm, fhould likewife be taken under confederation, and a rent proportionate
affixed. Judicious men acquainted with the place, and obliged, by proper
ianctions, to obferve a ftricY impartiality, would perhaps be the moft proper to
accomplish fuch a defirable object. Thefe hints may appear chimera!, but there
would be no harm in the experiment ; and, if practicable, might prove highly
advantageous, both to the proprietor and tenant, by promoting their reciprocal
interefts. Such a plan, without having recourfe to the levelling principle of
modern innovations, might have a happy tendency in duTufing the comforts of
life more equally, and at the fame time, maintain that diftinctxon of ranks fm
ncceflary to the existence of fociety.
6/ Saddel and Skipfofs. 475
,; NDMiEit xxini.
tjNItED PARISHES or SA.&DEL and SKIPNESS.
L. * * . .
: (GOCITTT AX* SltfOD Of ARGYLL, PMSBTTEUT OF KlK-
TTRE.)
ijy tit &v. Mr. G£orge Macliish.
Name; Extent, Glneral Appearance} Agriculture > XSc.
"IN the year 1753; the old £arHhes of Saddel and Skipnefs,
•*• with a large track of country between them, were di£
joined from the pafifhes of Killean andKilcalmonel, and erect-
ed into an united pariih. It retains its ancient names. Saddel
feems to be derived from its principal object the monaftery,
iignifyihg the plain of the priefts, by an eafy contraction of
the word Sa£aift, i, t. prieft, add dail, a plain. The other
name Skipnefs, is evidently from the Norfe language, and fig-
nifies (hip-point; alluding probably to its being a ftation of
the Daniih fleet; when this part of the kingdom was under
their dotninioh. This parifli is fituated on the eaft coaft of
ihe peninfula of Kintyre. It extends about 25 miles in length,
ind a tfriles mean breadth. . The face of the country is, in
3 0a general,
47& Statifttc/d Acctukt '
general, rough and hilly, and better adopted to- 1
tillage. The hills are neither fteepv barren, norrockjr, tar
rife gradually from the fea- fhore, wiih an eafy afccnt, are' fiat
at the heights, and covered with heath, and grafs intermixed^
fo that cattle, as well as fheep, graze upon them even in win-
ter* .The arable land on the declivities is not of a good qua*
lity, being a mixture of mofs, clay, and gravel, or till. But
the low ground near the fhore, and in the gI<Ais, is warm and
fertile. It is remarkable, that all the glens run in the fame
direction from N. W. taS. K., and are covered near the bot-
tom or lower ends with fiat points jetting into the fea, and
forming beautiful bays. This happy expofure give* them the
benefit of the early fun, and during the whole day ; a cir-
cumftance extremely favourable to vegetation. During the
fummer and autumn, the degree of heat in thefe glens is very
• great, but they are frequently refrefhed with, drizzling rains-
and flying (bowers ; the good effects of which, conftantly fol-
low ; for, though the fowing here be later two weeks or more
than in the uplands, yet the harveft is fooner over, and the
grain much heartier and better filled. For this reafon, a-
aiong others, all the farms (except a few moor farms) are fet
off fo as to have a ibare cf hill and dale, with accefs to the
ihore. The farm-honfes are, in general, very decent, parti-
cularly thofe lately built, of which there is a great number,
and are judicioufly placed near the middle of the .grounds, fo
as to bave the bed land between- them and the fhore, on which
they lay out all their dung and what fea- weed they can find,
as fitted for their principal crops, bear, potatoes* peafe, beans,
fee. and is under a perpetual rotation of crops. This divi-
fion of the farm is called the Wintertown* Next above the
farm-fleadings, are the Outfields, alternately under oats, paf-
tnre, and feparated from the hill or moor by a head-watt.
Thefe outfields ate fubdivxded into fmall enclosures witji
earthen
Of Gaddddtd Skiptttfs. 477
i &*%&>, JmBpdf «&d as folds for their cattle, when
taachiita** eneft, apd <*aie*jag vaere die only mwas of un«
ptttveaaegL. > Thtf* ft** laA ace ftili uf«d, but the former it
givmoapyvas being inppafed ; prejudicial to the milk cows*
Asa goeafcpaat atf the parife. bat not yet been meafured, it it
iapo&ble Co afcertokr with any precifion, the number of
acres, or the proportion between arable and pafture ; but the
length and breadth being given, a tolerable calculation may
be made of the tfuperficial contents of the whole pariih.
There are 94 neck-lands in the parifh. A merit-land is
fuppofed to be as much as one plough can manage. But, in
a Highland country, \t is evident this divifion muft be very
vague* and of very dUferest value, according to the difference
of the foil, and the proportion of arable and gAfs contained
init+«
Poputation+~*Accordm% to Dr. Webfter's report, the po*
pulatioff
* •
• The origin of this denomination of lands is, by fome, referred to a very
Siftant era, and clafled with the famous Alpinian laws. It is now of little
confequence, being neither uniform .nor univerfal. I know nothing regulated
by it, except perhaps, eels, teinds, and fome other public burdens. The rent
is fixed by a furer rale, the number of bolls- fewing, and fauns of cattle of all
kinds it will maintain. One cow makes a fount, a horfe two ; ten (beep (and in
tome places fewer) are confidered as a foum. It is evident, that in a country
Hke this, fo infinitely diverfified as to the proportions as well as quality of both,
arable and graft in every farm, with the accidental variations of ftock arifing
from the rife and fall of markets, and die confequent preference of one kind of
ftock to another, which fo frequently happens, no certain account can be given"
«f the total amount of ftock in the parifli, neither* could it aniwer any valuable
pdrpofe, and by fome, might be confidered as an invidious inquiry. Let it fuf-
•fice to obferve, that the average ftock of m merk-land^ is 4 horfes, 12 milk cows,
with their followers, and 40 flieep, with theirs. The average of fowiog is, t^
bolls oats, 1 boll bear, 4 bolls potatoes. From this calculation, however, which
is applicable only to fuch farms as are in the hands of common tenants, muft be
accepted, fuch lands as are in the natural pofieffion of the proprietors, and un-
der proper cultivation, and fome others under flocks of (heep and black cattle
4)8 Statiflicdl Jecouni
filiation in 1755, **9 l3^9* The number of fouls in df£
parifli, 25 years ago, was 1200; in July laft (1:791) 1341!
males 719 ; females 612, tinder 10—389 • from 10 to ao-4
305 ; ffQin 20 to 30 — 203 ; from 30 €0 40— l8r ;<from^l
to 50 — 98 5 from 50 to 60— 86 ? from 60 co 70 — 51 ; from
70 to 80—22 ; from 80 to 90—5 ; from 90 td 100— o j 'a^
bove loo— x, Incteafe in 25 years, notwithftanding confide^
table emigrations formerly to America, and lately to the tow
Country, is 141— AT B. A lift of fervants is not give*
feparately, there being few of them who are not natives, on4
theft are taken in their own, of parents families, and include
ed in the above table*. 1
The number of proprietors is 7 ; 3 refiding, 3 not refiding;
and t Occafionally. There are 6 tenants, who pay ffoin 50 1
to 100 1. ; all the reft have farms from 30 1. to 5 1. ; many of
thefe laft are cottagers and day-labourers. There are 4 millers,'
6 tailors,- 9 fhoemakers; 9 Weavers, 3 wrights, 3 hoopers,'
1 boat-Carpenter. Exclufive of the farming bufinefs, mod of
the fmall farmers, and almoft all the young men, are em-
ployed in the herring-fifhing, during the feafon ; and the Wo-
men in fpinning, Sec/
Rent. — The valued rent is 31 1 1. 1 7 s. 8* d. Sterling : a great
part of the parifh being in the pofleffion of the proprietors';
the prefent rent cannot be exa&ly known, but it has rifenf
very considerably within thefe 25 years,- and is ftiU rifing*
Roads.— -The great line from fnverafy to Campbletown;
and from thence to fouth end of Kintyre, where there is a
ftated ferry to Ireland, of about 7 leagues only,* runs through
the whole length of this parifli : And though there is another
-line on the weft fide of the country, yet it muft be admitted,
that this lino is preferable in many refpe&s. It is equally
fliort;
pfSadM and Skipntfs, 479
ffortv afld''taiitfi fatfte-ptetfant, from the great variety of
fettttftiftl obfeds which pfefent themfelves fucceifively to tra,
Tellers, as they journey either along a delightful bank within
view of the fea, or are fuddenly fnnk into pleafant woods
and vallies, where every fenfe is entertained, and the mind is
relieved from that difgufting famenefs, which in open extend-
ed plains, fatigues the traveller more than the length of the
road. The roads here are very good, and kept in good re-
pair ; they were made partly by the ftatute-work, and partly
by the voluntary contributions of the gentlemen ; but it was
found neceflary to apply for an aft of parliament for impofing
a (lent, in order to finifh and keep them in repair. It is but
juftice to the gentlemen of this country, to obferve, that they
exerted themfelves in a very fpirited manner to carry on this
great improvement of roads, not only in their own diftriA,
but alio in other parts of the (hire, particularly Shav-goil, an
undertaking of fuch magnitude, expenfe, and utility to the
publick, that it does the higheft honour to his Grace the
Duke of Argyll, and the gentlemen of the fliire, in general,
who contributed fo liberally to the completion of it.
Rivers and B ridges. —There are 7 large, and 1% finall ri-
vers or waters croffing the line of road, which require bridges
over them. Only 3 large, and 8 fmali bridges are built, of
courfe 4 large bridges are dill wanted, eftimated in cumulo, at
350 1., and 4 fmall bridges eftimated at 50 1., in all 400 L
A fum by much too heavy for a few individuals, however
generous they may be, or well difpofed to promote the in-
tereft of the parifh and the publick, efpecially in the prefenf
#ate of their funds, exhaufted by former exertions, with the
annual burden of keeping the road in repair, and building
fmall bridges ; fo that unlefe fome publick aid is given them9
\t is much to be feared this parifh muft long lie under th?
many
4$o Btatlfikal Account
many lofles and inconvenieocies arifing from Ac mot of
bridge* over thefe rapid and dangerous rivers. This circum*
ftance has often produced very frrious and dttfaeffiog efteda,
particularly in the cafe of the port, furgeons called to the
fick, the minifter of the parifli, and the parifliiooers in gottuig
to and from the church# and in travelling about their affairs,
marriages, christenings, burials, auufcets, mills, fmithies, £cc»
The commiffioners of fupply, and furveyora of roads .weft
lb feufible of thefe dangers and inconycoieocie*, that they
have had recourfe to an expedient for removing them, which,
though inadequate, was all they had in their power, namely*
to put largo planks aorofe thole waters which want bridgest
for the fecority of foot*travellers ; yet this is but partial re.
lief, fince fame times the fpeats or floods arc fo high and ra*
pid, that the ftrongeft hoc & cannot crofs them*
Herring JR^kry— This is a moil important objeft., {t i*
the principal occupation and chief fburce of the indufcy ppd.
maintenance of a confiderable number of the inhabitants*
The parifli furniihes about 30 fmall wherries, from 6, to 19
tons, and 60 row-boats 5 thefe, at % men to a wherry, and 4
men to a boat, employ 300 men. The wherries are for car-
rying the herrings Co market, and the fmall boats for {jibing
them ; but both are fometimes promifcuoufly employed, At
the end of « good {idling feafon, they will divide about 100 L
Sterling, t. «. aol. to each man, and aoL for the owner of
the boat ; but the average may be about 6 1. to fuch as give
only ** partial attendance on the fiihing (being in harvefi.
obliged to fecure their crop, fuel, &c.), jand from lo 1. to
15I. to thofe who profecute the filing during the whole Jfea-
Jbn, Which is generally from the beginning of J«oe to ChriiU
snas. The herring filhery.has nor totally failed any one year
for t&efc laft 20 or 30 years, though fume fcafpi^ have great*
Of Srtttttl mtf Skifntfs: 4.8*
i If ekceedei other* is the rfjuantity. It is observed, that the
1 bettings catitfht here, aid in the Lochs Fine, Long, &c. ait
I of Arfcher anil more dclifcate tafte, than thofe caught either
I tt the Wtftern Ifles, or the coafl of Ireland. Though the
I tetter utfc lfetith larger, thtey have a ftrong tafte, and anfwer
1 beft for exportation to hot climates. It is to be regretted,
that Government, and the focieties eftabliflied for fuch bene-
flritd fmrpofes, hate not paid more attention to this branch
of trade, in which, exclufive of buffes, who have a bounty,
lb many uieful hands are yearly employed, and from which
fo Witch advantage might be derived. The chief thing
Wanted for this piirpofe is, to have harbours difpofed in
proper places, and at convenient diftances along the coaft.
Tfreri are feveral fmajl bays and creeks, half formed by na- '
fare, fehere harbours, fufficfefit for the fleet, might be made
without any enormous expenfe. There are three places on
this coaft, I mean the points of Carradell, Skipnefc, and
Sunadale, the two former near the extremities of the ufual
£(hing ground 9 and the laft near the centre, which, on the
flighted fUrvey; would occur to any perfon as exceedingly
{ *toell adapted for principal harbours; to accommodate veffels
from 15 to 30 tons; feveral fuch attend every feafoa, for the
purpofe of faking herrings, or carrying them freflt to the
red-herring hbtifes in Liverpool, Ifle of Man, &c. and to
other markets, Veffels of this defcription, are of Very great
advantage to the fifhery, in keeping up the prices, and defecve
to have fome attention paid to their fecurity. Yet, the fmall
I fiihing-boats being of ftill greater confequence, ought to be
encouraged, and accommodated with places of fafety. There
is a great variety of fmall Creeks, which a moderate fum
would clear and fit for their reception. From 200 to 30a
boats have been frequently feeu here of an evening, and all
of them difperfed before morning, for watt of thefe accotti-
Vol. XIL 3 P modatioos,
482 Statijtical Account
modations, and obliged to run from the fiflung grounds t#
Tarbert, Lochfine, the Kylos of Bute, Lochranfay, Campble*-
town, and under the lee of head-lands and points, being their
only fluft to fave their lives. Though there are forac natu-
ral harbours formed by the mouths of the rivers, yet thefe
are often dangerous, from drifting or filling with fand, fome-
times inacceifible to veflels of 15 or 20 tons \ and, exclufive
of thefe disadvantages, have not capacity to receive any con-
fiderable number *.
State of Impr&vement. — From the general description given
of the face of the parifli, it appears, that though it is better
calculated for grazing than agriculture, yet, that a confider-
able part of the low grounds is capable of cultivation, and
fit. to produce the moll valuable crops. On the eftates of Sad-
del,
* It is here to be obferved, that betides the advantages of thefe three place*
above mentioned, for principal harbours, from their local fituation with refpect •
to one another, and the fiihing grounds, there are other* peculiar to them, a-
bove any other ft at ions along the coaft. The country near them is better adapt-
ed for crops, and confequently more populous. And the proprietors have of
late divided fome large farms into fmall plots, and built houfes on them for the
accommodation of fifhers and tradeftnen ; fo that if a few harbours were once
made, and the above accommodations of land, houfes, Sec. fomewbat mare ex-
tended (which the proprietors will find it their intexeft to do), the herring fiiherj
on this coaft would flourifli, to tlic great advantage of individuals, the publick,
and Government. More praife is due to thofe, who lay out their time, their
talents, their money, or their influence, for promoting thefe and fuch other
plans of real, utility, than to all the race of politicians put together. It is but
juftice, therefore, here to add, that, with the laudable view of promoting the
improvement of this valuable branch of our trade, his Grace the Duke of Ar-
gyll, and another gentleman (Mr. Campbell of Carradell), who has paid great
attention to the herring fifhery for a feries of years, and is fuppofed to have fu«
perior (kill in every thing which concerns it, have got red-herring houfes built
on their eftates here, in which a very confiderable quantity of red-herrings*
have been manufactured, and for which there has been a great demand both at
home and abroad.
Of Saddd and Skipnefs. 48 J
Jel, Carradell, and Stdpnefs, every fpecies of improvement
has been carried on to a high degree of melioration. From
the manfion-houfes, the eye is entertained with an extenfive
profpeA of regular enclofures, fheets ef verdant pafture, na-
tural woods and clumps of planted trees, with all the variety of
crops, which fyftematical cultivation, carried on with a libe-
ral hand and perfevering attention, may be fuppofed to pro-
duce, in a foil naturally adapted for fuch valuable productions*
But with thefe, and a few other exceptions, the reft of the
arable land in the pariih, is in the fame ftate of non-improve-
ment with every country under fimilar difadvantages. The
chief obftrudions to improvement in agriculture, hitherto,
have been the want of manure, and fuel ; or, at leafl, the too
high expenfe of money and time necefiary for procuring them.
There is no kind of manure in this pariih, except dung and
fea-weed, no limeftone nor marl being yet difcovered in it ;
and the inhabitants have been long fubjeded to many incon-
Tcniencies as to their fuel. Turf or peats were their only
, fuel : they are found in the hills ; but the cutting, with the
whole expenfive procefs of drying and carrying them home,
ufed to occupy the farmer and his whole family for a great
part of the fummer feafon ; and in a wet feafon, he ran the
dreadful rifk of wanting fire to drefs his vi£hials, or warm
him during the inclemency of winter. This was the de-
plorable fituation of the people here, and over all the High-
lands, two years ago, and is in a great meafure fo, even this
feafon (1793)* It is very evident, that neither agriculture
(that furcft and moil permanent fource of national wealth),
nor any manufa&ures, can ever be carried on to any purpofe,
in a country without manure and without fuel *.
3 P 2 Dif advantages.
* But now that the duty on coals carried coaftways is taken off, it will {aye
-the farmer a great deal of time and labour, and enable him to pay proper at-
tention
484
Sfatiflical rfatHflt
Difaduaotagu.—Vut there are other obftru$ipnq to iip7
provement, which dill prevail too qiuf b? and which U WPul4
he the infereft of landlords $n$ farmers tp fove removed :
Tbefe arife from top fyort Jeafes ; paying * gi^t number of
toall tenants, and their houfe? cojle^ed tqgetfyn; in U^p
centre of the fortn ; payment of <p?ny frpall items, aqd pref-
ration of feryicea tp the proprietor, to p>iU>, fmithies, gtc«
ivhichf sfS being prcjudici*^ are in moft places 1^4 a£<J*.
^rYg KiVi^.— The al^bey qf Saddel, a mon^ftfry of the Cif-
tertian order, was begun by Soiperle4, J-prd of I^intyre, and
the Ifles (whp died in {{63), afld ftnifhed by his f<m Regi-
nald. It was built in the form of a crpft. fnc length from £•
to W., is about 1 36 feet, by 24 pyer walls, and the tr^nfcpt
from N. to S«9 about 78 feet, by 24. The S. end of the tran-
fept wai extended 58 feet more, and made {he fide of * fquare,
which ferved for cjoifters. There is very little of the chpstfi
or cloifters now Handing— Near the point of §kjpneis, ftand^
the caftle of that name. Its appearance is very uoble. }t
can fcarcely, even at this day, be palled a ruin, though it
muft be a ftru&ure of great antiquity, being probably built
by the Panes* It is fomewhat lingular, and much to be re-
gretted,
tention to his farm. The time he formerly fpent about his peats, he may now-
lay out in carrying home coal and lime (lone. The great number of boats in
the parilh, with its vicinity to Clyde and Ayrlhire, are circumftances in favour
of the farmer, both for exporting what he can fpare of his produce, and getting
home coal and limeitone in return, and this will open a new fource of employ-
roent for many hands, who, in the late ftate of non-improvement, wert often
idle, except in the herring-fifhing feafon. What pity was it then to deprive the
poor induftrious people, for fo long a period, of fuch a resource for bettering
theijr condition in fo many refpecls, for the lake of a duty trifling to Govern-
ment, but highly impolitic, when conf.de red in all its train of calamitous cool
feqnences, to the families of many ufeful and deferring fubjecls !
Of Saddtl and Skipncfs. 485
grettedf that no mention is made in the hiftoric$ of the tinges
of fuch a magnificent building *.
Scboqht
• It is built ^P a cement, apparently made up of a compoGtion of lime ,
fea-fhell, and earth of a dunnifh colour, fo exceedingly firm, that it were eafier
tp quarry a whin -rock. Some parts of the walls feem to be of a later date than
others, being thinner and in a different ftyic of architecture. The outer wall if
7 feet thick, 33 feet in height) and 450 feet in length, in all, but none of the
fides are exactly of the fame length. It has two projections of 13 feet fquare
over walls, one at the S. £. corner, and the other at the N. W. corner, ftil X
called Tur-an-t'agairt, or the Prieft's Tower, clofe by which, there was a fmaH
chapel or oratory. At the N. £■ corner, and within the outer wall, there is a
large tower or citadel, considerably higher than the outer wall, which is kept-
in good repair by the prcient proprietor, who roofed and floored it, fo as to make
exceeding good lodgings. Below, there are excellent vaulted cellars ; the ftairt
to the feveral apartments above, run through the wall, and are far from being
bad, though rather narrow, according to the tafte of the times. The entry to,
it was (ecu red by a wall ftretcbing acrofs the area to the N. W. fide of the outer
wall, with a large gate in the middle : This gate, now partly taken down, at
well as the two outer or principal gates, were in the Gothic ftyle. The area
within this crofc wall, was probably ufed as barracks, now converted into a
bandfeme cpurt of offices with great propriety. Thefe, with other improve*
menu, both within and without the caftlc, have a very pleating effect, exhibit*
ing to the eye at one view, modern elegance and ancient grandeur happily com*
bined together.
Upon almoft every point or projection along the coaft, there are to be feen
fcnall Danifh forts; the mod confidence is, the caftie of Aird at Carradell, it
js fituated on a high rock clofo by the fea,on which fide it is inacceffible, and fe-
curcd on the land fide by a deep broad ditch. Nothing remains but a part of
the outer wall, built with mud, and above 6 feet thick, and 1% feet high, where
entire. It is 340 feet long, and 72 broad- Near this, at the extremity of the
point of land, which forms the fine bay of Carradell, there is a fmall ifland, in
the centre of which is to he feen, the foundations of a vitrified wall of an ellip-
tical form, furrounding about a rood of ground. The lava or cement is of a
dark gray colour ; but of what materials, and by what procefs it was made, it
not eafily determined. There is no tradition to throw any light on this puz-
zling monument of antiquity. It* infular fequeftered fituation, and particularly
its form, which was peculiar tp the ancient Druids, and a large opening on the
£. toward the rifiog fun, would tempt one to conjecture that it was built by
phat venerable order, as a place of retreat and fecurity, when they fell into
difgrace,
486 Statijlical Account
Schools % Poor. — There is no parochial fchool (properly fa
called) in this parifh, and there is only one fociety fchool for
reading, Sec. at 5L, and another for knitting, &c. at 61., both
placed at Skipnefs. There are two annuitie^^ft to the for-
mer, one of %h 1 os. Sterling, by Daniel Campbell, Ef<j. of
Shawficld; and the other of 5I. left to it by Mrs. Ann Camp,
bell, relid of Captain Colin Campbell of Skipnefs ; both
which annuities ,are regularly paid. The parifh would re-
quire three other fchools at leafi ; one in the centre, one at
Carradell, and one in Glenfaddel *.
Such is the modefty of the poor in this parifh, and their
averfion to begging, that the feffion lift feldom exceeds 13,
except
^ifgrace, and had drawn upon themfelves the difpleafure of the race of Fingal^
by afluming a greater degree of power, than thefe haughty heroes were willing
to allow them. As there is a fimilar building in the ifland of Bute, and othe*
placet, it is hoped a more fatisfa&ory account may be obtained*
* Application was made by memorial, about 15 years ago, to the Society in
Scotland for Propagating Ghriftxan Knowledge, reprefenting the ftate of tho
poor people for want of fchools, and craving the aid of the Society. No relief
was then granted, on this ground, that there was no parochial fchool in the
parifh. This is ft ill the cafe, for this obvious reafon, that one parochial fchool
would be of little benefit in this parifh, on account of its great length and com-
parative narrownefs, interfered by fo many rapid and dangerous rivers. But a
plan much better adapted to the purpofes of education and general advantage,
was adopted in lieu of it, namely, to divide the parifh into convenient diftricls,
with a fmall fchool in each ; the inhabitants contributing a falarj to the teach-
er, which falary amounted considerably above what they could legally, or rea-
sonably be afiefled iu. Thde i'alaries, however, though not very confiderable,
being loo heavy a burden on the poorer fort, who ace by far the greateit num-
ber, thefe fchools were frequently discontinued, and in fome districts dropped
altogether. But it is now to be hoped, that the furvey lately made by a Re-
verend Gentleman, will (how the Society the propriety of erecting more fchools
in this parifh, for the relief of the poor, encouragement of teachers, and the
intereft of religion. The landed intereft in the parifh, mud certainly canfidex
it as a right meafure to concur with the Society, in promoting a fchemc, not
only benevolent in its nature, but attended with many advantages to tfcem>
fclves. " He that lendeth to the poor, lendcth to the Lord.**
Of Uddel and Skipnefs. 487
except In, the fummer feafon, and in times of great Scarcity.*
They are fupportcd partly oy the colle&ioas in church, pri-
Tate charities, and their own induftry ; very few of them
beg from doorfcta doOr. But the parifh is much harrafled with
ftrolling beggars from Ireland, the Highland Ifles, the Low
Country, and from the northern parts of Scotland.
Eccl$fiqftical State. — There are two churches, neither of
them old, being built fince the ere&ion 1753 ; they are 13
miles diftant from each other, apd about 6 miles from the
extremities ; they axe in good repair, but ft ill unenclofcd,
and without bells, and other conveniences oeceflkry for the
clergyman, when performing duty at a diftanee from his own
houfe, and where he can find no proper accommodation for
himfelf, or his horfe j to be forced to look for it in a publick
houfe, is both difagreeable and expenlive. The glebe was
defigned,- and the manfe built in 1772, in a fituation extreme-*
ly cold, and expofed to violent florjns ; 4 miles from one
church, and 9 from the other. The glebe confifts of about
30 acres, Scots meafure, of very bad moor, and two acres
arable. The fum allotted for building the manfe, was only
246 1. ios.; a part of the finifhing within, and the offices,
were put off to a future period; and nothing has been done as
to either, except what the incumbent has done for his interim
accommodation, at his own expenfe. He believes the herw
tors intend foon to make up thefe deficiencies. The prefent
living is 49 bolls bear, 15 bolls meal, and about 17 L Ster-
ling money, per decreet of locality, by which all the recover-
able teinds are cxhaufted.— Patron, his Grace the Duke pf
Argyll.
General Char after. — The people of this pariih are, in ge-
neral, of a fober, honeft, and hofpitable difpofitiou. Few
crimen
4§& Statijiical Account
entire*, or high tirififciheatiours have been krioWn attio&g thdfi."
TW fitted, for mihmce, for fornication and adultery, have not
exceeded $\. fiote the iricumbent came to the partfh, 25 yeartf
ag*. As to theft religious knowledge, they are happily ig-
ftttfant of thofe party diftiriflioris, and cflntrdverfUl difpUte*
which difgrace and divide the religions in fothe part* of the
kingdom, as well teachers as people. Senfible, however, of
the difadvantages they have lbng lain under from their Ideal
fituatiori, in a pariih tti oddly laid off, when the communica-
tion Is to frequently interrupted by intervening thtts, and
the donfequerit diftctilty of enjoying the* meaiis of teliglotig
imprtiVemeht, they anil ou fly look forwani td that period
fthen thefe obftrudttohs flull be removed.
One Very great obftru&iori to religious improvement irt this
parifh, is riot only the great diilance of a confiderabtfe number
of the people from the churches, and the interruption of
rivers, &tfc. but fchiefly their having publick woiflrip only-
eV^ry fecond Sabbath in each Chutcll, and ev*n.this fubjeft
to the uncertainty and difappointment which nrtift frequently
arife from the above mentioned caufes. It is evident, that if
publick ordinances are the principal channels bf religions im-
prove men t (which no fenfible man will deny), this improve-
ment will advance more or lefs in proportion, as theffe mfe&ns
fcife enjnyed. To Want them, therefore, every fecond day, is
plainly a deduction of one half of the qudhtutfl of kfloW^
ledge add Virtue they are calculated to produce. If to this
Ife added, the force of thofe consequent habits of negled *n&
roifapplication of that day, dedicated to the performance of
the thoft natural and indifpenfible duties of & reasonable be-
ing towards his beft Benefactor, and to the attainment Of the
eflential requifites of private and public, prefent and future
happinefs, it will faggeil confiderations of the ffloft atfedmg
nature to every perfon who is not totally diverted of every
becoming*
Of Saddcl and Skipnefs. 489
becoming regard either to God or his fellow creatures ; yet,
ftuuneful as it is, in this blefled land of religion and liberty,
fuch, and worfe than can now be defcribed, is the fituation
not only of this parifli, bat of tntfny other parifhes in the
Highlands and Iflands of Scotland. But it is to be hoped,
that in the reign of the beft of Kings, and during an admini-
ftration which pays every attention to the temporal profperity
of the nation, this gteat objeft will* not be overlooked ; that
means will be adopted not only of rendering the fituation of
the prefent clergy comfortable, but that provisions will be
made by Government for the fupport of fuch an additional
number, as are neceflary for reducing fuch pariflies as are at
prefent too large and extenfive within reafonable bounds.
This would render the duties both of miniftcrs and people,
not only eafy and pleafant to themfelves, but profitable to the
nation, by facilitating the means of adding to the ftock of
publick virtue, and publick profperity ; for, it is the fureft
way of attaining to that righteouinefs which exalteth a na-
tion.
Vol. XII. 30 NUM.
499 Stattyical Account
NUMBER XXXIV*
PARISH ot AUCHINDOIR,
(Cototy and Stood of Aberdeen, Presbytert ot AMm
ford.)
By the Rrt. Mr. Jamis Rfiiife
Name, Extent, Surface, &c.
'T'HE name of the parifh is Gaelic. Its etymology is un-
'* certain. It is faid to fignify " the field of the chafe,*
or, " the field of the purfuit." But, though its iituatioo a-
mong hills, the greateft part of which have been covered
with wood, mud have rendered it fit for the chafe ; and
though a great number of cairns, faid to have been" r&ifed
over the bodies of the (lain, and fome other circnmftancesr
make it not improbable that a bloodj battle has been fought
here; little more than conjefture can be offered why it ihould
have taken its name, either from the hunting of wild beafts,
or
Of Auchindoir. 49 1
•
#r the purfuit of an enemy *. The form of the jMrifii is ir*
tegular, and in many places it if interfered by the neigh*
bouring pariflies. There is no map of the pariih ; and, ex-
eepc the eftate of Craig, none of it has been meafured. It
may contain about 35 fquare miles, being about 7 miles from
N. to &, and, at a medium, 5 miles from E. to W. ; bat by
far the greateft part of this is hill or moor ; fo that the ex*
tent of arable ground does not exceed 2000 acres. This
country is, in general, hilly, or even mountainous, and fome
of the mountains are of coofiderable height. The Buck in
particular, the top of which is a boundary of this pariih, is,
according to Ainfiie, 2311 feet above the level of the fea, and
though more than 30 miles from the seated fea, is feen at the
diftance of 10 leagues from the land. The mountains, in ge-
neral, are covered with heath, and fupply the fportfman with
plenty of moor game, though for fome years with confider*
ably lefs than ufual, owing, as it is fuppofed, to the ftormy
weather in the breeding feafon. Some of the hills are green,
and though the grafs be for the mod part coarfe, afford tole-
rable pafture to a good many fbeep.
Rivers, Hills^ &c— The number of rivers, or even rivu-
lets, is not (b great as might have been expe&ed in fuch a
mountainous country. The only river in the pariih is Bogie.
3 (£2 It
• Buchanan tells us, that Luthlac, fon to the ufurper Macbeth, haying been
jrarfued northward by Malcolm, was fiaiii " in the valley of Bogie." The fpot
where he was (lain is thought to be about 2 miles to the north of the church of
Ajickmdoir, bot hi the pariih of Rhynie, in a place where a large ftone, with
fome warlike figures on it, has been fet up. If fo, it is not improbable that
Luthlac has been overtaken about a mile to the S. of the church, in the place
where the above mentioned cairns now are ; that being defeated, he has been
jmrraed through the valley of Auchindoir, which lies between the cairns and
the figured ft<me^ and that from this purfuit, die pariih of Auchindek ha*
takes its name.
49? Stati/lical Aetount
It is formed by two rivulets, called the Barn of Craig, and
the Burn of Corchinnan, which meet at the manfe. Thi&
beautiful little river, after having run through a rery rich
ftrath or valley, to which j[t gives name, and after having fup*
plied the bleachfields at Huntly with very foft and pure water*
falls into the Dovern a little below that village, i* miles:
from the place where it firft took its name, without reckon-
ing the windings of the river. There is plenty of fine trout
in it, but fcarcely any falmon, except in the fpawniog fca?
fon. Don touches the S. £• corner of the parifh, and there*
receives a fmall river, called Moffat, which divides Aucbin-
doir from Kildrummy. Salmon are caught here by the rod
or fpear ; but in no great numbers. If we include a part of
Kearn and Kildrummy, which are very much mixed with
this parifh, the valley of Auchindoir is nearly, furrounded by
a range of hills. From thefe, feyeral leCs hills fhoot forward
into the valley ; and the hills are indented by gullies, and cat
by dens or deep and narrow hollows, fome of which reach a
great way back into the mountains. The valley is exceed-
ingly diverfified and uneven, every here and there, either
riifag into hillocks, or finking into hollows ; the whole pre-
senting a profpecY, which, though confined, and in moil places
bleak, to the admirers of wild and romautkk icerjfery, is by
pq means unpleafant f.
Minerals.
« Notwit jf anding the farrounding hills, Auchindoir is dry and healthy, the
hollows probably ferving as fo many -ventilators to purify the air. Out of the *
14 perfons that died laft year, the fura of the ages of o, is 666: and within
lefs than 20 years, 6 men have died, all fervants in one family, whofe ages a-
mounted to fall 500 years. The laft of them, who died a few months ago, had
been gardenec at Craig fincc the year n2^» retained his faculties, both mental
and bodily, in considerable perfection, and managed the garden with great at-
tention to the laft ; rode 7 miles the day on which he died, and at the age of
. S6, 'probably fell a faenfice to a facial and convivial difpofttion* There are no
diftempers
Of Auchindoir. 493
MineraJf^Frttfione is found 10 the greateft abundance*
A quarry of it is wrought, which gives employment to 8 or
10 hands. There is alfo a vein of tolerably good limeftone,
which in different places appears even at the furface; but ow-
ing partly to the want of good roads to the places where it is
found, partly fo our Ihort leafes, and principally to the man-
ner in which the ftones have been quarried, every one taking
them where he ould mod cafily find them, without ever re-
moving the ruboUh, very little lime is burnt in this pariflu
T<> is is the more to be wondered at, as there is plenty of good
peut for burning it : 2nd the more to be regretted, as it an-
fwers uncommonly well with the foil. The little lime that
is ul>d in Auchindoir, is chiefly brought from Cabrach, at
the difUnce ot ic miles, and through very bad roads. We
have alfo a loofe gritty fubftance, which ftrongly effervefces
with aquafortis; but, as the place where it is found is of
difficult accefs, the effe&s of it as tt manure have not been
tried* Were we to value what is curious, rather than what
is ufeful, Auchindoir might boaft of being one of the few
pariihes in Scotland which produce albedos. It is found on a
hill called Towmreef, in the bed of a little rill, but in no
great quantity. One Jeans, from Aberdeen, found a great
deal of it by digging in the neighbourhood*
Population. — According to Dr. Webfter's report, the num.
ber of fouls in 1755, was 839. As the regifters here have
been very inaccurately kept,, it is impoffible to (ay what the
ancient population has been. The regifter of baptifms, which
appears
diftempers but fuch as are common in the north of Scotland. Rhenmatifm is
the moft prevalent, and gravel among perfons in the decline of life. Inocula-
tion for the fmall-pox hai taken place of late. Laft fpring 50 were inoculated
by a furgeon in the neighbouring parifli, who very humanely gave attendance
and medicines to the poor for nothing.
494 Statifiical Account ,
appears to be the lead inaccurate, begins in 1694, at which
time the parifh feems to have been more populous than at
prefent, the> annual average of baptifms for %i years being
26, a greater number than any fince that period. Prom 1697
to 1702, h falls as low as jf i but, in a few years, rifes to
about 20. For the lalt 8 years, allowance being made for
thofe who are not regiftered, it has been only 14*. The pro*
portion between the males and females, is nearly as 7 to 6.
By an a&ual enumeration in fummer 1 785, the parifh con-
tained 661 fouls, and by another enumeration laft fpring, k
contained only 572 ; fo that the decreafe, in lefs than 8 years,
has been 89. The decieafe is partly owing to the removal of
cottagers, who had pendicles of land, and privilege of pafture
from the tenants, at the foot of the mountains ; the former
being difcouraged by the latenefs of the feafons, and conse-
quent lofs of a great part of their crops fince 1781, and the
latter finding they could make more by the rearing of cattle,
than the xents that were paid them. It is alfo partly to be
attributed to the demand for labour in the manufactories at
Aberdeen. Of the 57a inhabitants which the parifh contains,
the ages are as follow :
Males.
Females.
Males.
Fema]
Below ic, -
62
4»
From 50 to 60, 28
18
From 10 to 20,
54
48
From 60 to 70, 22
21
From ao to 30,
38
43
From 70 to 80, 14
16
From 30 to 40,
29
44
From 80 to 90, 7
7
From 40 to 50,
3*
4»
98, _
1
Id all 290 males, and 28a females.
Of
Above io years,
Of Auchindoifi aq$
Of tbefe there are :
*0f the Eftablirticd Church, - 441 .
Seceders, [Burghers, and Ami-
burghers], x^
Scotch Epifcopalians, - 5
Papifts, 4
Quaker, - • - 1 *
Soil, Agriculture, &c. — The foil of Auchindoir is, in ge-
neral, thin, dry, and early, confifting of a pretty rich mould
mixed with fand, and lying on freeftone. From this, how-
ever, there are many exceptions. The N. E. part, at leaft
the infield, is a ftrong deep clay, and the glens or hollows a-
xnong the hills are wet, fpongy, and late, much fitter for
pafture than tillage. Improvements in this parifh, and in-
deed in all this country, have made little progrefs. The
Scotch plough drawn by 10 or 12 oxen, or by 2 fmail horfes
and 4 or 6 fmall oxen and cows, is chiefly ufed. The land,
in general, ia neither ftraighted nor levelled, and the quanti-
ty of turnip or fown grafs is inconfiderable. The infield is
. kept in conftant tillage, without being cleaned or relied : the
outfield, which is more than two-thirds of the whole arable
ground, is fown with oats for 5 or 6 years, and then allowed
to
* The Burgher-Scceders attend public worfhip In the parifh of Tough, and
the Antiburghers in Cabrach. The hitter have public worfhip 4 times a-year
in Auchindoir, but have no church. The Epifcopalians have a church in the
paxiih, in which one of the neareft clergymen of that perfuafion officiates once
a-month. DifFenters of all denominations are much on the decreafe. There is
•ne pexfon who was born in Flanders : all the other inhabitants are natives of
Scotland, and almoft all of them of this and the neighbouring parimes. We
have no phyfician nor lawyer. No manufactures are carried on here. The wo-
men knit a good many ftockings, and fpin a good deal of linen yarn for the
manufacturers of Aberdeen and Huntly ; but how much money this may bring
into the paxiih, it is not eafy to determine.
495 Sfatijllcal Accouht
to run to natural grafs for 8 or 9 years, after which it is ii
gain broken up and treated as before. This wretched mode
of farming, however, though too general, is not univerfal.
Mr. Gordon of Craig, one of the heritors, has a farm fub-
ftantially enclofed, fnbdivided, and improved, in which the
ufeful and the ornamental are happily united. Another of
the heritors, Mr. Forbes of Brux, has alfo a farm in the pa-
riih. At an age, when the fpirit of enterprize and exertion
generally fubfides, he undertook a work which required even
youthful activity. When above 6c, he took under his ma-
nagement, about 156 acres of his eftate, confifting partly of
outfield, and partly of heath. This he has enclofed, and
more than three-fourths of it , is carrying weighty crops of
turnip, corn, or grafs. He is now in his 84th year, and is*
ftill pufliing on his improvements with cbnfiderable vigouf .
A few of the farmers have likewife adopted the modern huf-
bandry, and with fome fuccefs. One improvement only, and
that on fo narrow a fcale as to be fcarcely worth mentioning,
is pretty general. Not above 20 years ago, hardly attly of the
tenants had potatoes, turnip, of fown grafs, except in their
gardens. Mr. Gordon of Craig, recommended failing them in
the fields, and feat his gardener to teach the mode of culture.
Now, every one has a few falls of potatoes and turnip, and
fume a little rye-grafs and clover, in the fields *. There are
rd
* It is, however, to be feared, that without the operation of forae unfore-
seen caufe, the progrels of improvements here will not be very rapid. The
following are among the reafons that lead to this uncomfortable -conciufion •
ijl, It requires a coniiderable time to draw men from long confirmed habits,
arf/y, If money be the finews of war, it is no lefs the unews of farming > and
that is wanting among the tenants of Auchindoir. $d/yt The principal market
for our produce, is Aberdeen, and it is at the diftance of 36 miles. 4*&/y, The
leafes are lhort, and not a few of the farmers are tenants at W'll, without any
leate at ail. 5*i>/y, All the tenants pay mill-multures, which are a tax on in-
duftrj'/
1
Of Aucbtndotr. 49.7
in the paiifh^ about 60 ploughs, 140 carts, 170 horfes, 90a
black, cattle, and 3000 fheep. The valued rent of the parifli
is* 1322I. us. 4d. Scots. The real rent is about 650I. Ster-
ling. After fupplying itfclf, the parifh exports annually a-
bout xoo bolls of bear, and 200 bolls of oatmeal. The bear
is reckoned of an excellent quality, not unfrequently weighing
Vol. XII. 3 R from
ouftry ; and fervices, which draw off their attention from their own farms, and
axe much more hurtful to the tenant than beneficial to the proprietor. It is ac-
knowledged that the inconveniencies o/ either, are not fo much felt here as in a
country where improvements are going on, and the value of labour is better
underftood ; but that they have a tendency to check improvements, cannot ad-
mit of a doubt. It is alfb acknowledged, that the fervices are not rigoroufly
exacted, the tenants being treated with great lenity and indulgence ; but the?
notwithftanding keep them in a date of dependence, as degrading to the cha-
racter as inimical to exertions. 6tkly, We have no winter-herding. As foon
as the corn is off the fields, the cattle are let loofe without a keeper. The fown
grafs and turnip, are the objects of their depredations ; and thefe, as the coun-
try is open, it is impoffible for the owners to preferve. The fmall patches of
turnip are indeed taken up, and after their tops are cut off, are put into houfes,
Or piled up in heaps and covered with earth ; but where the fields are exteiuive»
this cannot be done. It may indeed be faid, that winter-keeping may be forced;
but the meafure is fo very unpopular here, that few have the rcfolution to at*
tempt it.
Some of thefe difcouragtments to improvement, it is evident, cannot be re*
moved, and it is equally evident, that others can. If the beft tenants, not the
higheft bidders, were preferred ; if judicious encouragement, particularly long
leafes, were given to the mdft fpirited, Jkilful, and fubftantial, and if thofe weia
aflifted with a little money who feemed capable of making a good ufe of it ; s
fpirit of improvement might be excited, the condition of the tenants bettered*
and a permanent, though not immediate increafe of rent obtained. It may ap-
pear improbable, yet fome facts would almbft incline us to fuppofe, that agri-
culture at fome remote period had attained a greater degree of perfection than
at prefrnt. Many places bear the traces of the plough, which are now cover*
ed with heath ; and, what is very remarkable, the ridges are all ftraight, level,
and of equal breadth. Some of thefe places too, are at an elevation, at which,
it is now thought, corn cannot be brought to grow ; but this is eafily account-
ed for, if we cooiider that a great part of the country has formeily been cover-
ed with wood .
498 Statijiical Account
from 20 to 22 flone a boll, which has been known to yield
X 8 flone of meal. If the rife of the price of labour be a
proof of increafing profperity, we muft entertain a very flat-
tering opinion of the north of Scotland in general, and of
this country in particular. Within thefe 30 years, it has
been doubled, and tripled in little more than 40. In this
-pariih, it is pretty tnuch the fame as in the reft of the
county.
Language, Antiquities, &c. — The only language fpokea
here, is that dialed of the Englifh which is common in A-
berdeenfliire. The peculiarities of it, a native is perhaps
little qualified for pointing out. The people in the fouth of
Scotland fay, that the tone is harfli, and to them has the ap-
pearance of paffion and bad humour. Almoft all the names
of the places are derived from the Gaelic, as " Auchinleith,"
or the grey field, " Toumriach," or the fpeckled hill, " Ful-
ziemont," or the blood of the mountain. The laft is the
name of a farm, lying at the foot of a pretty high conical
hill called Knock-chailich. The hill has been fortified by a
double wall, and the farm has probably received its name
from fome bloody battle that has been fought there. On a
little hill clofe by the church, there was a cattle, faid to be
mentioned by Boetius ; but no traces of it remain. It has
been defended on three fides by rocks and precipices, and on
the fourth fide by a moat or deep excavation which has evi-
dently been the work of art. There are feveral other anti-
quities, fuch as tumuli, barrows, and fome little hillocks
called peft-hillocks, about which laft the tradition is too
vague and uncertain to deferve a place here *•
Heritors,
• In the fouth-eaft corner of the parilh, there is a ipring called, •*. the Nine
Maidens' Well," near which, tradition fays, nine young women were flain by
Of Auchlndoir. 499
Heritors, Stipend, School, Poor. — The number of heritors
is 6, none of whom refide in winter, and only 2 in fummer.
JThe living is 40I. is. 6d. ; 19 bolls, 1 peck, £ of a lippie,
meal, at 9 ftone ; and 6 bolls, 1 peck, i\ lippies, bear ; with
3L 6 s. 8d. of communion element money: the whole amount-
ing to fcarcely 60 1. The Earl of Fife i* patron. The manfe
was built in 1765 ; but is in very bad repair. The church
is in pretty good repair.; but by much too fmall for the ac-
commodation of the parifh *. — The fchool falary is very
fmall, being only 7 bolls, 3 firlots, 2 pecks, meal, at 9 ftone ;
all paid by the tenants, and collected with a great deal of
trouble. The whole emoluments of the office do not exceed
9 1. — We have no ftated funds for the fupport of the poor,
except the intereft of 200 merks Scots, paid by the family of
Craig. Altogether, they receive little more than idI. an-
nually : yet this fum, fmall as it is, feems to be fufficient for
3 R a fupplying
a boar that infefted the neighbouring country. A ftone with fome rude figures
on it, maiks the fpot where this tragical event is faid to have happened. The
boar was (lain by a young man of the name of Forbes, the lover of one of the
young women, and a ftone with a boar's head cut on it, was fet up to preferve
the rememberance of his gallantry aud courage. The ftone was removed by
Lord Forbes to his houfe of Putachic ; and it is from this circumstance that a
boar's head is quartered in the arms of that family.
* There are fcveral dates on it, one as old as 1557. It has undoubted! ybeen
a Popifh church. In the north-eaft corner, there is a very complete crucifix
cut in ftone. Below it, is a niche in the wall, with the following infeription
immediately over it, in very legible characters : *' Hie E. corpus D. N. I. C-
V. M." 1. c. Hie eft corpus Domini noftri Iefu Chrifti. Whether the laft two
initials ftand for vere mutatum, and allude to the doctrine of tranfubftantiation,
every one may judge for himfelf. On the lower edge of the niche, but now
concealed by one of the feats, are thefe words : " Hie eft fervatum corpus ex
virgine natum," Laft year, by a decreet of the Court of Teinds, the pari flies
of Forbes and Keam were disjoined ; and the former annexed to Tullynefsle,'
the later to Aochindoir : but, as the annexation does not take place till there'
i{ a vacancy at Forbes and Keam, no account is taken of Keam in this re-
port*
500 Statiftkal Account
fupplying their neceffiries. There is a general reluctance to
become a burden to the parifh, which leads to induftry and
economy. Oar young people coniider it as a point of ho-
nour to fupport their parents ; and, when any cafe of extra-
ordinary diftrefs occurs, to which the public funds are un-
equal, tne people cheerfully and amply make up the defi-
ciency. There is no ftrolling beggar belonging to the parifh;
but we have great numbers of them from other parifhes.
Some of thefe, particularly the women, are young and healthy;
and they are ufually attended by feveral children of different
siges, whom they train up to the fame habits with themfelves.
If there be laws for remedying thefe and fimilar abufes, it is
a pity they are not put in execution.
MifctUancous Obfervations*—Somp of our difadvantages
have been already mentioned. To thefe may be added, one
want of wood, which we are obliged to bring from great
difiances, even for the moil common ufes. This complaint,
however, will foon be removed. Mr. Gordon of Craig, has
planted about 600 acres, with *U the kinds of foreft trees that
are to be found in the north of Scotland. They are in a very
thriving ftate, and, while they have nearly doubled the value
of his eftate, have rendered Craig one of the mod beautiful
places in {he county. The poet Arthur Johnfton, in order to
draw his learned * friend from his retirement at Craig, re-
prefents this country as bleak, and fbockingly ugly. Had he
feen Craig in i$s prefent ftate, he would have made ufe of
other
• Johnfton's letter is published in his '* Parerga." The gentleman, to whom
it was addrefled, feeros to have been a man of abilities and accomplishments.
•* Tu dofuie fontes ficcafti cohortes" — " Tu mores hominum ridifti et urbesw—
" Te fpectant curia, roftra, forum ;" even if allowance be made for the par-
tiality of a friend/ and the colouring of a poet, applied to a man of ordinary
rnerit, would have been an infult tather than a compliment.
Of Aucbindoir+ $q ^
other arguments. The rocks and precipices, the caves and
dens, which he reprefents as fo horrible, covered as they now
are with trees and flirubs, are obje&s fitter to invite than
frighten away.
It is not to be fuppofed that every little diftrift Jhould
poflefs any ftriking peculiarity of chara&er ; and to touch
the nice difcriminatiqg fiiades, is neither eafy in itfelf, nor
neceflary in a work of this nature. The following faft places
{he character of the people of this parifh in no unfavourable
light: Within the memory of man, there has been no in-
stance of filicide, nor of any criminal profccutio^ againil an
inhabitant of Auchindoir.
NUlVf.
JQ3 Statijlical Account
NUMBER XXXV,
PARISH of DYSART,
(Count* and Synod of Fife, Presbytery of Kjmu
caldy.)
By the Rev. Mr. George Muirhead.
Name, Extent, Surface, Soil, Climate, fSc,
nf^HE name is of Gaelic origin, fignifying the Temple of
■*• the Moft High *. The form is irregular. It is about
xo miles in circuit. Its extreme length is about 4 mijcs ; its
greateft breadth near to 3. It contains 3054 acres. The
ground rifes gradually from the fea above a mile northward ;
and then flopcs down to the river Orr, which forms the boun-
dary on the N. E. The foil is generally light : near the coaft
it is well cultivated, and the harveft early. In the N. W. of
the parifh, a track of land between the Orr and the rivulet
Lochty,
• The parifli of Gletrarchay was formerly called Clachan Dyfart, or the
church of the High God. Clachan fignifies (tone or building, Dy, (©EOS) God,
art, high.
4
Of Djr/art. $oJ
Lochty, which there forms the boundary, is wet and very
ftony. In the fpring, £• winds prevail, and bring mifts from
the fea, which are unfavourable to pulmonic complaints : at
other times, the climate is not unhealthy *. The fea coaft
extends about % miles. It is high and rocky : but the rocks
do not projeft far into the fea ; and in fome places there is a
fandy beach below them* Sea* ware thrown aihore by ftorms,
is occasionally ufed as manure with fuccefs. The ware upon
the rocks is cut once in 3 years, and produces a few tons of
kelp. The courfe of the tides is regular, high-water being
two hours after the moon comes to the meridian. But io
fhore, the current fets down the Frith 2 hours before high*
water, -and up the Frith, 2 hours before low-water. The
harbour is much expofed to ftorms from the £., which, in
winter are fometimes very violent. It may contain 12 large
vdfels at a time. The depth at a ftream, I2f feet.
Minerals. — There is plenty of good freeftpne at no great
diftance from the furface. lameftone has been found of axi
inferior quality, and is not quarried* as there is plenty of
good limeflone in the neighbourhood. The mines are coal
and ironftone. There are 14 beds of coal in the Sinclair
eftate.
* Epidemics are not frequent * when they come, they prove moft fatal ia
Pathhcad, not from the fituation of the town, which is high, on rock or fand j
bat from the houfes being crowded with inhabitants, and from want of fuffi-
cient attention to cleanlinefs. More attention is paid to this than formerly ;
J but there is ftill room for improvement, in this refpeel, throughout the parifli.
! It is a pity, that what tends fo matetially to promote health and comfort, mould
I not be confidered of great importance. There are two mineral fprings. The
one, impregnated with vitriol, had once forae reputation for its medicinal qua-
lities ; but has for many years been entirely neglected. The other, impregnat-
ed with iron, was much reforted to about 1 a years ago ; but is now generally
abandoned. Both are from coal mines, and come to the furface on the fea-
/hpre.
564 Staij/iical Account
feftate. Mod of them are thin, and have been wrought out
above the level of the fea. Three of the chicked of tbefe
beds, which are near oae another, are bow working. The
Bppermoft bed is 5 feet thick. The diftance between it and
the fecond bed, is 18 inches, being a foot of coal, with 3
inches of till above and under it. The 2d bed of coal is 8
feet thick ; under it, is a bed of ftone and till 2 feet 3 inches 9
and under it the 3d bed of coal, 5 feet thick *. They are now
working thefe beds of coal 60 fathoms below the furface.
The water is raifed by 2 fleam engines : the coals are raifed
by 3 horfo gins* Horfes are employed under ground to bring
the coals to the pit bottoms. The average quantity of coals
railed annually for 7 years preceding 1791, is 15,26} tons;
value 4000 1., and 7000 tons of culm, value 583]. ; 105 per-
sons are employed f. There are 5 beds of ironftone, which
being
* The metals cut through in getting to the coftl, are, \fly nest the furface,
s fathom browniih ftone ; id, 14$ fathom till, very clofe ; $dt S fathom brown,
iih ftone, porous, and mixed with iron veins ; 4*6, 7 fathom till,- mixed with
thin beds of freeftone, hard ; $tb, a fathom blaeiih ftone, very hard, muft be
wrought with gunpowder ; 6tb$ 6 fathom till, mixed with thin beds freeftone ;
jtbt i fathom, a hard cbarfe coal, mixed with ftone, which is immediately a~
bove the beds of coal that are wrought, and is left for a roof.
f Dyfart coal was amongft the firft wrought in Scotland, having been began
more than 300 jears ago. It was on fire nearly as far back. It is faid to have
had periodic eruptions once in 40 years ; a remarkable one in itftfa. This fire
is fuppofed to have been occafioned by pyrites, which is found in this coaL It
is defcribed by Buchanan,
" Vicini defrrta vocant : ibi faxea fubter
M Antra tegunt nigras vulcantia femina cautes."
Buch. Fhancijcanus.
The effects of it may (lill be traced by the calcined rocks from the Jiarbour,
more than a mile up the country. The road from the harbour is called Hot
Pot Wynd, and another near it, the Burning. In the beginning of this cen-
tury, tho flames were fcen at night coming out of the pit mouths. In 1741,
the
OfDjf&t. 405
befog near each Other, are wrought at the tame time. They
lie below the coal ; and as they dip the lame way, are wrought
to the W. of it, where they come nearer the fuurface * 34
men are employed in this work, who raife 2080 tons an-
nually. A ton of ftone yields about 1400 weight of iron*
Population, &c.~ According to Dr. WebfteVs report, the
number of fouls in 1755, was 2367. Little is known of the.
ancient ftate of Dyfert. Trade is faid to have flouriihed these
in the end of the, 13th century ; 50 tail, probably {mall vef-
fels then belonging to the town. Many of the inhabitants,
particularly tailors, accompanied Lord Sinclair to the battle
of Flodden* who were xnoftlj cut off. This gave a great
ihock to their trade *• The Auppir^g has incxeafcd confider-
Vol. XIL 3S *bjy
the coal was fet on fire by a lime kiln, which had been placed (00 near it. Jt
did not burn violently: but was not extinguished for forae years. In 1790, it
again took fire, from what caufe is unknown. It did not burn with fury ; but
occafioned much fmoke and bad air* The colliers were prevented from work-
ing far fome months. It is now eittnguiftiei The means ufed, were to oc-
clude the. air as much as pofiiUe, and .to allow the water to rife by flopping, the
engines. Dyfart coal has a ftrong heat : but being flow in kindling, and bav*
ing much allies, is not fo pleafant for rooms as fome lighter coals. It dips to
the S. £. (moft oi the metals on the (ea coaft of this parifli dip the feme wa^}
* sathom in 3 near the (here ; but is flatter .as it goes north.
* It was made a royal burgh in the beginning of the 16th century : but the
original charter, and old records are loll. In 1545, it is mentioned as one of
the principal trading towns on the Fife coaft. In the beginning of the prefent
century, its trade was much decayed : but from the number of well built hotifes
wit then, it had the appearance of having been in a flourishing ftate. At that
time much fait was made, there ; and their. trade coafifted chief\y in expertiaf
coal and fait to Holland. At that time too, malting and brewing were carried
on to a great extent. In 1756', foreign trade revived. Severals commenced
wine merchants, and imported wine and fpirits in their own vefifels. This trade^
fupported partly by defrauding the revenue, is new happily done away. Indi~
vitals might gain by it : but the town. was. much hurt. Its effects on the
moult
506 BtatiJHcal Account
ably of late years ; mamifa&ures have been introduced ; ancj
the town may be pronounced in a thriving ftate. In 1756^
the number of inhabitants was 1378. In 17929 1827. The
revenues of the town are fmall, arifing from fome landed
property and the harb#ur dues.
Path head is named from its fituatian near a deep defcent
called the Path. It is divided into Pathhead Proper, or Duni-
keer, fituated on Dunikeer eftate, and Sinclairton fituated on
Sinclair eftate. Dunikeer is the old town : the gre*teft part
of Sinclairton has been built within thefe 40 years. The
chief employment in Pathhead was, for a long time, the mak-
ing of nails. They fent great quantities to Edinburgh, tq
Glafgow, and to the nor/th of Scotland. Two things favour*
ed this trade, plenty of good coal near them, and the facility
of getting old irop, by the fliips trading from Dyfart tq Hol-
land. But when other places came to have the fame advan-
tages, anfl nail factories were ere&ed in different quarters, the
profits of this trade were diminiflied. Manufactures have
been introjiuce4 fince that time. Many bred fmiths have be^
come weavers : the women too are beginning to handle the
fhuttle with fuccefs. Several manufacturers of fubftance now
refide there, who have raifed themfelves by fober induftry :
and the town is in a fair way of flourifliing, if the fudden
rife of wages do not lead die young men into habits of diffi-
pation. Symptoms of this have appeared of late : but the
practice is as yet happily not general ; and we hope the inha-
bitants, in general, will continue to {how that regard to the
laws of the land, and that refpe£b for the precepts, of the
gofpel, without which they cannot hope to profper. In 1756,
Pathhead,
morals of the people are not yet entirely effaced. New laws and greater vi.
gilance on the part of government rendered the trade very hazardous ; and it
is now feldom attempted. A fair trade has fucceeded it, where the profits
may be left, but the feenrity is greater.
t)f DtfatL
507
Pathhead, including Sinclair ton, contained 1 107 inhabitants 3
in 1792, 2089.
There are two villages, Galaton and Borland. In the for-
mer, nailing was the chief bufinefs j and is dill carried on.
But many weavers now refide there, who are employed by
the manufacturers in Dyfart and Pathhead. In 1756, it con-
tained 203 inhabitants^ in 1792, 432. Borland was begun in
1756, for accommodating the colliers, and has been fince in-
creafed. It contains 196 inhabitants.
In 1756, the numbers in the country were 241 ; in 1791,
409. This increafe is not from more farmers redding than
formerly, but from a number of weavers and fome fmiths
having from time to time built houfes along the high road,
and in other places of the country*
TAfiLE oi the Population of Dyfart Parifh*
Fami-
Numbers in the Families.
Incrcafcd
Of thefe built
lies
Male.
Female.
TotkL
fincei756.
Houfes.
fince 17S1.
Dyfart,
451
819
917
*736
358
224
10
tathhead,
581
I062
1027
2^89
982
320
100
Galaton,
137
227
205
43*
227
70
12
Borland,
41
87
109
196
127
30
6
Country,
84
190
219
409
i63
80
8
1294
1385
*477
4862
1862
724
126
The caufes of this increafe of population are, an Anti-
burgher meeting-houfe being erefted at Pathhead, which
drew thofe of that perfuafion near it ; the advantage of be-
ing near coal, and the encouragement for labour about the
coal-works ; and what has contributed much more than either,
the rapid increafe of the manufactures.
3 S 2 Improvements
508 Statiftical Account
Improvements hy Proprietors. — In the Siaclair eftate, the**
was originally an extenfive moor, burdened with feal, divot,
turf, Sec. to the burgh of Dyfart. Servitudes of this kind
are a great bar to improvements : and, in effates where coal
is an obje&, the attention paid to it, too often prevents the
cultivation of the furface. When the inhabitants of Dyfart
came to give up the ufe of turf, either for burning, or other
purpofes, their privileges on the moor could not be of great
importance. An agreement concerning them feemed evident-
ly for the advantage of all concerned. This was accomplifh-
ed at different periods. As a compenfation to the town, a-
bove ioo acres were conveyed to them in property : and the
family of St. Glair were at liberty to cultivate what remain-
ed. In the beginning of this century, a few years after the
firft tranfa&ion with the town, Lord St. Clair began to plant
and enclofe near the Orr. His example was followed by his
fucceflbrs : and what ftill retains the name of Dyfart moorr
now confifts of good enclofures, chiefly in pafture, furround-
ed with belts of plantation. Within thefe 50 years, between
300 and 400 acres have been planted and improved, no more
remaining in its original ftate, than what is necefiary for fuch
of the feuars as ufe divot for a covering to their houfes. The
whole eftate, a few acres excepted, is enclofed with (tone
and lime, or ditch and hedge. The laft is preferred as a
cheaper, warmer, and more beautiful fence. The eftate is
ftill capable of improvement.
The proprietor of W. Strathorr, while he is bufied in car-
rying on an extenfive manufacture in a neighbouring parifht
dedicates his leiiure hours to the improvement of his eftate
in this. The ground has been cleared of (tones, which al-
xnoft covered the furface : the fields have been enclofed, drain-
ed, and n .anured: belts have been planted to fcreen it; it
aflumes a very different appearance from what it did a few
years
QfDjfart. $&g
years ago. It already makes fame return for the* motey
laid out upon it ; and will foon repay it with intereft.
Farms in the Hands of Tenants. — Thefe are 15 in number,
containing from 30 to 280 acres each. Upon theft, are j*
men, including the farmers and their fervants ; 94 horfes ?
350 cattle; 34 ploughs*; 38 carts. They breed annually
16 horfes, 29 calves. There are feveral extenfive enclofore*
in pafture, on which ioa cattle are fed annually; 339 bolls
of oats are annually fown, which produce 1824 bolls; lot
bolls of barley, which produce j8y bolls ; 43 bolls of wheat,
which produce 351 bolls; 70 bolls of peafe, whieh produce
971 bolls. Potatoes, turnips, hay, and flaxf, are alfo railed
in no great quantities ; and the proportions cannot be eafily
ascertained. The rent of the beft grafs.ground in the burgh
acres is, al. 15s. the acre: of the beft arable land, 3L In
the farms, there is little above 1 1. an acre ; and much below
it* There is a confiderable extent of ground not above 7 s.
6d.jthe acre. The leafes being only for 19 years, is againft
thefe farms. Had the farmers a leafe of double that time,
they would be encouraged to improve by the hope of a re-
turn ; or, were the proprietors to take them for fome time
into their own hands, and improve them, they would after-
ward get more than double the rent, and do an important
fervice to the publick. The produce of the parifh goes but
a little way to fupply its confumption. Meal and flour are im*
ported from Lothian ; meal, wheat, barley, and hay, from
the neighbouring parifhes. Little manure can be got but
lime, which is ufed in confiderable quantities. For fome
time,
• Small** ploughs are now generally ufed.
f More flax was formerly cultivated ; but in the late leafes, the farmers hare
been re drifted in this article, from fome miuakea notion of its being too fcoarg-
ing.
5 1 o Statijiical Account
time, fervants were preferred to cottagers : but fince the Iatf
rife of wages, and great demand for labour about the roads
and manufactures, they feel the want of them, particularly in
harveft, when hands are with difficulty procured. Men-fer-
vants wages are 6 1. a-year. Our farming cannot be (aid to be
in a very advanced ftate : but there has been great improve-
ment within thefe 20 years. The advantages of enclofing and
laying down in grafs are now felt : the diftin&ion between
infield and outfield is doing away : * balks are difappearing ?
and green crops are fubftituted in the place of fummtr fallow.
The foil is none of the beft ; but might be made much better
than what it is at prefent.
Burgh Acres. — About Dyfart, Pathhead, and Galaton, numV
bers who keep cows and horfes, find it neceflary to farm as
few acres at a high rent. Where farming is only a fecondarj
objed, perfection cannot be expeded. They have the ad-
vantage of the country farmers in more eafily procuring dung ;
and accordingly the foil near the towns appears richer than in
the country. They often fow too thick ; and are feldom at
pains to keep their fields clear of weeds. Drilling was in-
troduced about 40 years ago. Wheat, barley, beans, and
oats, are fometimes fown in this way ; turnips and potatoes
always. Where the ground is over-run with weeds, as is the
cafe with the burgh acres, from their being almoft conftantly
in tillage, the drilling is furely a great advantage ; feed is
faved ; the crop is generally more vigorous, and more eafily
kept clean. There are a few of thofe who have the burgh
acres, who pufli the farming with vigour, and have their
grounds
* In ftony ground, the (tones ufed to be thrown into the hollow between the
ridges, by which one-third of the ground loft thefe ridges called baftf*
QfDyfari. 511
grounds well dreffed. Such examples are needed, and are
worthy of imitation *•
Manufa&ures.—Tht number of looms in the parifli, is from
700 to 750, employed in making checks and ticks. The
quantity of cloth made annually, is about 795,000 yards,
which being, at a medium, about nfd. the yard, makes the
annual value of this manufa&ure 38,093 1. 15 s. About half
the cloth is fold in London ; a fourth, chiefly the coarfe kinds,
in Glafgow ; the other fourth in Manchefter, Liverpool, Not-
tingham, Leeds, and fome other towns in Yorkfliire. In th*
linen trade, 10 hands are reckoned to be employed by each
loom ; but as three-fourths of the flax confumed in this trade
are foreign, 7 to a loom may be a proper medium, which, for
725 looms, is f 5075 people employed. Seven-eights of the
flax ufed in making white or bleached yarns, are imported from
Riga, and fpun in Fife. What is ufed fot the blue and dyed
yarns, is chiefly made from home grown flax : bnt, as a fuf-
ficient quantity cannot be got, Dutch flax is imported and
fpun to make up the deficiency. Of late years, a confides
able quantity of coarfe yarn has been imported from Bremen
and Hamburgh. Not above a fourth of the yarn ufed in the
parifli is fpun in it. The greateft inconveniency the trade la-
bours under, is a fcarcity of good weavers. People not qua-
lified to teach, take apprentices for a or 3 ye«jrs, inftead of a
longer period. The apprentices, not attended to, get into
bad
• From being in fuch variety of hands, it was difficult to form any calcula-
tion of the produce of thefe acres. More wheat, and potatoes, and turnips, in
proportion, than in the country farms.
' f That is more people than the parifh contains, becaufe a great proportion
of the flax is dreffed and fpun out of the parifli. The number of hands employ,
ed in this parifli in this manufacture, is between aooo and 3000, beginning at
the flax-dreffera,
£12 Gtatijlical Account
bad habits ; and many of them never can make a piece of
good cloth.
This manufa&ure began in this parifh between 17 10 and
1720, and increased (lowly till 1776, when it did not exceed,
in value, 8;ooL annually. About that time, a or 3 of the
eftablilhed manufacturers got into the English trade, and mak-
ing goods fuitable to that trade, increafed their demand be-
yond what their capitals were equaj to ; or, though they had
had funds beyond what they could find bands to execute.
They of courfe gave their orders for coarle goods to roanu-
fa&uuers in the neighbourhood, who employed from 2 to 8
looms. Thefe, by economy and induftry, faved money from
the orders they got ; and fooo increafed the number of their
looms* But the value of the goods made, has increafed much
more rapidly than the capital of the manufacturers, owing
chiefly to the many branches of the banks, by which credk
is got too eafily. On this foundation, about a third of the
goods is at prefent made, and of an inferior quality to what
is made by tbofe of charade* and capital. Thofe who began
this manufacture here, had to work with the fweat of their
brow for 8 or 10 years, ere they gained the firft iqo 1. of
their capital : now, a weaver * without xo 1, capital, will get
credit for 200 1. or 300 1. value of yarn, or cafh for a bill,
with 2 or 3 names upon it, to the fame amount. To retire
thefe bills, the goods muft be expeditiously niani|fa&ured«
To effect this, they feduce by drink, and offers of extrava-
gant wages, the workmen of eftablilhed manufacturers : the
confequences.
* Since the above account of the cloth manufacture was frnt me, aftagna-
tion has taken place ; and fcarcely any money can be procured at the hanks.
As yet, this parifh has been iefe «ffecled by it than many other places. JBut
few hands have been difmifled : the wages have been lowered, but are AiU
good. But uakfo there come a favourable turnibon, manuia£uroK cannot «£*
lord to make goods, when the fates are fo low.
bfbtfari. Jij
fconfequences mull be obvious. The fates of the parilh of
late, are not under from 48,000 1. to $0,000 L a-year *• If
inuft be obferved, to the honour of the Englifh, that in the
trade with them, there are very few bad debts.
5&/>.— A (hip-carpenter employing about 6 men, feftleof
nere in 1764. His* buiinefs gradually increafed, till he found
Employment for upwards of 30 men. Ete has built here, 43
veffels rrieafuring 51 89 tons. Of thefe, 1$ vfrefe for Dyfart ;
8 for Greeriork ; the reft chiehy for the neighbouring ports.
In 177$, another carpenter bred under the} former, began to"
build, and has had very good' encouragement. Bte has builC
31 f veffels meafnring 3445 tons. About 4$ men are at pre-
fent employed, including both. At an average, for 15 years
back, 501 tons have been built annually, which at 5 1. the
ion, makes the annua? value of this manufacture 1 5 05 1. The
crooked timber is imported from Hamburgh and Bremen, and
the oak plank from Dantfick. The foreign timber, aftef
paying duty, is cheaper than what can be brought from any
place in Britain. A confiderable proportion, howeVef, of
Englifli oak is ufed, where it is moft ufeful. The reparation
Of the American Colonies from' Britain, and the amendment
of the navigation act in 1786*, have contributed much to the
rapid progrefs of (hip-building in this country. The em-
ployment which this bufioefs gives to {hipping in importing
the materials ; the numbers employed in building, manufac-
turing (ails, cordage, iron work, &c. ; and the duties paid
Vol. XIL 3 * os
* Thefales of the parifli exceed the produce, becaufe ottr iAihttf»6taref5 but
cloth from other paftthe*, and employ weavers there. It may be otfervtd, to6*
that a nualbcr of the wearers in this pariuTare employed by the Kirkcaldy m*.
ftufadarers.
f Only one of thefe Veflelsis yet known to be loft; 11 were for Dyfart, the
reft chiefly for the neighbouring ftorts.
1 1 4 Stati/Hcal Account
on importing the foreign articles, render it of importance ;•
and it muft be confidered as a valuable acquifition to com-
merce,. It is hut jnftice to fay, that the improvements in
this art, have kept pace with the other improvements of the
country* It is thought a boat-builder might find encourage-
ment here.
Nails.— In Pathhead there are 43 fmiths, who make about
6 million of nails annually, value about 1000 1. They are
fold in the country round, and cortfiderable quantities carried
to Edinburgh, and fome to the north country. In Galaton
there are alfo 43 fmiths, they* do not make the fame number
of nails, as feveral of them are far advanced in life, and a
number of them make nails of a larger fize for fliip-building.
The value of their manufacture, alfo about 1000 1. Their
nails are fold in the neighbourhood, and quantities carried to
Perth, Montrofe, and Aberdeen.* The nails are made of old
iron imported from Holland : and the merchants who f urnifli
the fmiths with old iron, take their nails and fend them to
market.
•
Salt. — Salt was made here, at leaft fome time before 1483. .
as appears by an agreement with the family of St. Clair, of
that date. The works were more eztenfive than at prefenu-
There are veftiges of many falt-pans, which have' been de-
jtaolifhed long ago. Much fait was exported to Holland j bud
none of late years* Seven pans ate now going, and employ
14 biters, befides a or 3 other hands occafionally to carry
the fait to the granaries. About 17,100 bufliels are made an-
nually, value 1200 1. The fuel employed is chiefly culm.
lao loads are required to make ioe bufliels of fait. The
bittern has been fometimes I'ought after by the cbyznifts ; but
is generally allowed to go to wafte.
Brewery
O/Dyfart. 515
Brewery and Ropery* — In the former, about xooo boR| of
barley are malted annually, moftly the growth of this county*
About 2500 barrels of ale and beer are brewed, from ios. tp
36s. the barrel, value aijol. A considerable quantity of
this Is fold in * Kirkcaldy, to which the brewery pays 40 1.
annually, impoft. A manager and 4 labouring fervants are
employed. An addition is now making to the works, to
carry on a diftillery there. la the latter, about 6 men aro
employed in making (mall ropes,
Domefiick Commerce. — There are 4 annual fairs in Dyfart,
one for linfeed, one for white cloth, one for white cloth and
'wool, and one for black cattle. In Pathhead, one for white
cloth and wool. In Galaton, one fof white cloth. About
50 years ago, great quantities of cloth were expofed at thefe
fairs, and bought by .merchants from Edinburgh, Glafgow,
and Stirling. This trade has gradually fallen off ; and very
little bufinefs is now done at any of the fairs, except that for
black cattle. Lefs white cloth is made in Fife than formerly,
To many of the weavers being taken up in the check and tick
manufacture : and the merchants choofe rather to pick up
the cloth at the bleachfield, than after it has been dreffed for
the market. The woqI market top is entirely gone. For-
merly many families fpun wool, and made cloth for their
own wearing : now Englifli cloth is generally worn* And
fince enclofing became general, very few iheep are kept in
Fife. The eafy intercourfe by mesjis pf polls and carriers,
and fhops being eftablifhed in every little village, render fairs
lefs neceflary. Bufinefs is thus better managed. When every
lx>dy reforted to the fairs, they were generally a fcene of dif*
fipation. Whatever day the fair began on, no bufrie&wa^doqe
3 T % that
* lt\* fituated juft on the boundary of the Kirkcaldy parifU.
$ 1 6 Statifiical Amount
that week, There is 4 wetkly iparket in Dyfart during thf
fumraer, for the articles of the cQuotry produce : and a flefi}?
xnarket in Dyfart and Path head, in which abcfut 300 cattle
are jkilkd annually, befideg mutton, and veal, and Jamb, in
their feafpn. Mutton is often brought from Perth. The lancj
fale of coal annually, is 7100 tops ; and of fait aopo buihels*
f here arc alfo cpnfldorablc (ales of meal and of wood *•
Maritime Commerce— Twentyrthrec fyuare rigged veflels.
and two (loops belong to Dyfart, meafuring, by regifter, 4075
tons, value 30,0001., and employing 349 men. There is not
trade from this port to employ this (hipping. They are mod-
ly in the carrying trade, going out in )»aUa(i, or loaded with
coals, and bringing home wood and other articles from the
Baltic^ to Leitht Scalock, Dundee, Perth, and other ports*
A few of then* trade from. London, Liverpool, and other
Englifh posts, to the Mediterranean, Weft Indies, and Ame«
rica. . Three, of ..them are at prefent in Government fervice,
as armed (hips, and one as a tender. As to foreign exports
and imports from and to Dyfart annually, there were export-
ed 4584 tons pf coal, chiefly to Copenhagen, Gottenburgh,
aajl
* Prww .—■ Beef fcom 4 d. to J & the pound- Iron ; veal and mutton the fame ;
mutton* when fc'arc*, $|d. a#d (id. ; Umb from 1 9. to is. 8 d. the quarter ;
jfclmon from. 5 d. to 8 & the pound ; fowls from % s. to 2 s. 6 d. the pair ; chick-
ens from 8 d. to is. 4d. the pair j eggs from 4 d. to 6"d. the dozen : fowls and
eggs very fcarce, from our vicinity to the capital ; butter from 8 d. to xb d. the
pound tron; cheefc from 3 s. 4 d. to 4 s. the (tone tron ; Englifh cheefe 5{d., or
4 d. the pound BnglttL Maidferants room il. to $L 10 s. a-year ; dayJabour-
ers from 1 1. to is. ad* a-4ay; joujnejmen mafons l%. 6d. a»day; ihip car-
penters from lo s. to 12 s. a- week ; houfe carpenter* 1 s. 8 d a-day ; moemakers
from 7 ?• to 8 s. a- week ; tailors 6 d« a- day and their victuals ; weavers from
4 s. to 4 s. 6 d. a-day ; gardeners is. o"d. a-day ; failors from 2 I. to 2 1. 10 s.
a-month ; a falter, with his fervanfc, from 1 1. to 1 1. 4 s a-week.
Many of the above articles are double in price of what they were 40 years
O/Djfart. 517
jud tfce ports of Holland. Imported from IVJcrael, Eafterizer,
£hriftiaofand, Dantzick, Hamburgh, and Bremen, about 14
cargoes of wood* From Rotterdam, Campvere, Hamburgh,
^Jemel, and Daotzick, % or 3 cargoes of other goods *•
Goods fent coaftways annually, are, ao8o tons iron-ftone to
£arron-works ; 3583 tons coal to Dundee, Perth, Montrofe,
Aberdeen, &c ; 15,109 buftiels fait to Aberdeen and Invejr-
jiefs ; 160 bales cloth to Leith. Imported from Leith, 1000
bolls oatmeal f, 160 bolls flour, 130 bolls oats, and a variety
of other articles £. From Aberdeen, tiles, bricks, cheefe, and
butter. From John's* haven, fome cargoes of dried fifh. This
coafting trade is carried on in fmall veflels.
The people are fond of a feafaring life : but generally a*
verfe to go into the navy, owing partly to the horror with
which, from their infancy, they are taught to look upon a
preft-gang. Many of the feafaring people think, that were
the failors in Government fervice, to get 30 s. a- month, and
fome fmall allQwance to their widows and families, in cafe of
death,
* The detail of wood, and other articles imported from thefe places laft year,
}% as fellows ; 1614 fir baulks, 1544 fir deals, 687 oak plank, 196 1 pieces of oak,
74 fpara, 300 deal ends, 230 plank ends, 5.600 tree nails, 1500 clap-boards, 11*
parting boards, % fathom, and 90 pieces lath-wood, 4S bundles hazle rungs, 244
handfpikes, 000 Haves, 148,000 hoops. Other goods; 17 pipes Geneva, 2 calks
14 tons and 17 cwt old iron, 499 matts flax, 6$ 2 hogfheads linfecd, 78 bags
and 7 hoglheads clover feed, 94 calks tallow, 40 bags rags, 2 calks pearl aihes,
i$f hulhels apples, ao barrels onions, 265 kegs fpruce bear, 3 cafes books, 39
tons oak-bark, a bales linen, 5 bales yam, imported in 17 vefiels, 3, Daniih, the
reft belonging to Dyfart, and the neighbouring parts.
f More than double that quantity of meal is brought over to the parifh ; but
as what comes to Pathhead h generally imported at Kirkcaldy, it does not ap-
pear with the Dylan imports.
X Such as 25 barrels fait herring, 30 anker* fpirits, a few pipes of wine, 15
hoglheads porter, 48 calks alhes, 15 barrels tar, 200 mats flax and tow, 16 bales
yarn, 4 bales leather, cordage, &c. for the (hips built here. Thefe Leith im-
ports are in a pafTage-boat that goes twice a-week from Dyfart to Leith.
51 8 Statijllcal Account
death, the navy might, at any time be manned, without hav-
ing recourfe to a pra&ice, not ftri&ly conformable to the fpi-
?it of the BritiQi Conftitution, and which is often cruel ia
its operation, upon a brave and hardy race of men, who, in*
-war, have fpread the terrors of the Britifh arms, to the moft
-diftant parts of the earth, and who, in peace, convey to us*
from every quarter, the comforts, conveniences, and luxu-
ries of life. The expenfe attending the imprefs fervice, it is
thought, would go far to defray the neceflary addition to the
feamen's wages. The fubjed certainly deferves the atten-
tion of every politician, of every patriot : and any hints,
however imperfeft they may be, and from whatever quarter
they may come, in a matter of fuch importance, would not
1>e entirely overlooked.
Stipend, Schools, Poor, <^r.— The charge is collegiate. Thej
iirft minifter has a commodious manfe, built in 1779, and %
garden, but no glebe. His ftipend is 5 ch alders meal, 5 cha7?
<lers barley, and 16]. 13 s. 4d., two load of coals a- week, and
a ch alder of fait annually, while the coal and fait- works pre
carried on : the teind of fifli caught and fold in the parift*,
and half teind of 6(h brought for fale from other parifhes.
The fecond minifter has neither maufe nor glebe, nor any al-
lowance for them. His ftipend is 55 1. us., two chalders of
meal, and two of barley, and a load of coals a-week, while
the works are carried on. The heritors are, Sir James Er-»
dkine St. Clair of Sinclair, Bart., who is patron of both
charges, and titular of the teinds ; James Townfbend Ofwald
of Dunikcer, Efq. the Countefs of Rothes, Walter Fergus of
Strathorr, Efq. Major St. Clair of Skeddoway, the Town Qf
Dyfart, and 4 others who have each a few acres. None
of the principal heritors refide, except Sir James St, Clair
occasionally. The church is old j its date unknown ; tradi-
tion
• Qf'Bj/art* }i$
tion (ays it wis built by the Pi&s. The architeft, if he in-
tended it for preaching, cannot be praifed for his contrivance,,
It is dark, the fide walls low, and the incumbrance* of pil-
lars, &c. fo many, that it is difficult to make the roice reach
it. It dbes', not" feat above* half the congregation *'. — T*he
ibhobl-houfe belongs td the towrf. They deft the fchool-'
mafter, and pay" his falary. The prefent matter 'is aHb fef-
fion-clerk* His falary, perquifites, and wages, amount to
50 1. He teaches latin, engliih, book-keeping, arithmetic,
Hod" navigation. About 70 at prefent attend' his fchool. There*
are feverat private fchools in Dyfart and Pathhead, and one
hi Galaton. The matters hive no falary nor fchool'-houfes,
but depend entirely on the fmaH wages they get from their'
fcholars, which are often bat ill paid. About 230 attend
fbefe fchools f. — Twelve perfotts go* from door to door once;
a-week,
• * About a year ago, the kirk-feffion applied to the heritors to make it more
commodious. An. architect was defired to infpe& it,, who gave in fame plans
•f alteration, and there the matter rafts :- but it is to be hoped the heritors will
fee the neceffi ty of doing fomething. foon. Numbers are obliged to take feata
in neighbouring congregations; tome go to the fe&aries; others, it is to be
feared, take advantage of this circumftance, to forfako public wosflrip altoge-
ther. Were heritors eager to promote religion by their inflwrnrit and example,
they would do much to fupport government and good order, and would have
left caufe to complain of the corruption of the lower ranks, at leaft they might
do it with a better grace. Almoft the only fe&arie* in the parifh are Burgh-
ers, Antiburghers, and Relief, amounting in all to 55a families. The two lad
mentioned feels have churches in this pariih ; the former attend worflup in
Kirkcaldy perifh. The anijneuty between the church and fecei&on, is now hap-
pily much abated. The. people, in general, attend church regularly; bat a
few are beginning to be to fawiouable as po attend only occasionally.
f It » much tobe wilted tome better provifion could be made for the educa-
tion of youth. Dyfart and Pathhead would require each two eftabliihed mat-
ters, Galaton and Borland each one. A Sunday fchool was begun in Dyfart two
years ago, fupported by fubfeription. At firft, upward} of 100 attended ; but
afterward, many who had come from novejtyr gradually dropped oE At pre.
feni,
$id Siati/lical Account
aVweek, and receive alms in meal or money. Few have re-
courfe to this mode; and fuch feldom get from the funds. Tire
funds are :
Collected at the church -door annually,
Interest of ftock,
Seat rents, - -
L.46 6
9 4
6 6
0
0
0
L. 61 16
0
jt perfons are now upon the roll, who receive from x s, to
js. monthly. Few of the in'duftrious born and bred in the
pariQi, come to be a burden on the funds. But numbers in
the decline of life, come into the parifh, and in a few years
muft of courfe be fupported ; others who have been idle and
<houghtlefa in youth, when diflrefs or age come* are caft up*
on the public *•
Advantage*
fenf*, abotrt 40 attend. It has had good efie&s : tile children are regular in at-
fending church, and attentive when there ; but thofe parents*** mu<fr to banner
who, wanting ability or inclination to inftruA their children far the primjptes)
of religion, do not avail themfelvtsof toe aJHkaoce they might hove, by (tad*
ing diem to the Sunday fehool. As the foods railed for tbia fehool were marc
than equal Wits^upport, they aft portly applied to porchti* bibta, ajtdpo*
moor children to the weekly fehool.
* There are federal private food* of great ufe. la Itymrt, the failorvdao
mataneir, the bakers, hare eteh their botes for afiMKng their members in dif-
trefi. In Pathhead, there are two aflbtiotiont of weavers, and one of faiths a
in Cfelaton one-: In Borland one. In 178a, the poor were in great ftraits. The)
patron (then Gokmel James Si Clair) bought quantities Of meal and peafe, to
be Ibid at reduced prices for their behoof, and gave- money to be dHtributod to
the ffloft needy. In Dyfert aneV Pathhead, money was nuTed by fubfcrtptjon\ to>
ftaurchafe meat rot them. When, by any unforefcen accident, a perfon or aunt*
ly is reduced to- great dhtrefs, the neighbours frequently procure a temporary
fupply, by a contribution among themfelves. None, I believe, get from the
funds who do not fraud in need : but the fupply afforded 10 rather fcenty. Soon-
er or later, it is- nippofed the heritors will be brought in : as few of them refide,
they by no means- pay their proportion. The kirk-fefton at present manage
the funds: but are always ready to allow the heritors to infpcdfc their books,
mod take a (hare in the management.
r
OfDyfart. 511
. Advantages mi Difadvantages.—Thc firft advantage is,
plenty of coal ; bnt pofterity will not thank us for wafting it
fo faft by exportation, ad, Its vicinity to the fea, convenient
for Commerce and fiihing. Little attention is paid to the laft*
We have only one family of fiihers. the town is fnpplied
with fifll from Wemyfa pariih. They are carried on Women**
backs. The fiih caught here, are, cod, whiting, flounder,
mackerel, baggety, fand-eel, crabs, and lobfters. The lobftert
art Cent to Edinburgh. 3d, A good public road through the
partth. So much cannot be faid for the crofs roads, which
are next to impaffable. When the public roads are finifhed,
it is to be hoped attention will be paid to them. Tolls have
been ere&ed in the neighbourhood, and one in the parifh,
not without grumbling. It is generally thought they were
neceflary ; and few will grudge to pay them, when the roads
are well made. The chief difadvantage is, a fcarcity of good
water, particularly in the town of Dyfart ; the furface in
much drained by the working of the coal.
Improvements faggefted.—x. It would be of great import*
ante to the trade of the place, te have the harbour deepened*
and rendered more fecure. The town can do very little in
this way from their own funds ; but as upwards of 3000 1.
are annually paid to Government from goods exported and
imported at this harbour, and a great value of flapping i*
there annually efcpofed to danger, they think they have a
claim for fome aid from Government, for carrying onfo necef-*
dry and fo ufeful a work. 2. A dry dock might be eafily
made in the W. fide of the harbour. The (tones are daily
quarried for building : at fome additional expenfe, they might
be fo quarried as to form a dock in the folid rock. 3. Ground
might be gained from the fea, 'nfcar the harbour, which is
much wanted to contain the wood ufed in fliip-building. Some
Vol. XII. 3 U thonfand
5 a a Statifitcal Account
thbufand carts of ballaft are annually csft upon the fiiore, at
the back of the harbour. Were proper means ufed to pre-
vent the fea from wa&mg it away, it would foon accumulate
and become folid. 4. Our trade is chiefly to- the Baltic,
which is frozen in the winter, of courfe the failors are at
borne 3 or 4 otoliths in the year. It is a pity they were not
employed during that time ; £0 much labour is thus loft to
the community, and fo much comfort to the individual. They
would be happier employed than idle. . Thofe who are bred
weavers or fmiths have an advantage in this refpe& : they fome-
times follow thefe employments when at home* 5. The engines
and fait pans occafioa much fmoke, which is very di {agree-
able, deftroying vegetation in the gardens, and penetrating
the inmoft recefles of the houfes. By ere&ing the proper ap-
paratus on the chimney tops, it might be converted into tan
Thus the nuifance would be prevented, and a manufaduret
citabliflied, peculiarly adapted to a fea-port town.
Remarkable Events, — On the 7th of January 1740, a num.
ter of boys, according to cuftom, on ift Monday of the year,
were diverting themfelves on the fands below Pathhead} 13.
Ijiad gone into a cave, when the roof fuddenly fell in ; 3 only
were taken out alive, and one of thefe .died foon after. The
friends of thofe who met this untimely fate^ for many years
kept the firft Monday r f the, year as a fail. An inftance of
j at a birttt has happened 5 times during the incumbency of
the prefent miniiler. Few of them furvived long **
* General
* Antiquities. — ^ncTe was a priory of Bfack Friars in the town of Dyfart.
Their chapel* called St. Dennis, was long in a ruinous ftate, but was lately con-
ferted into a forger The Romans had a fttftion here. A high roefe^ cottmaud-
fp j the harbour, is -called the Fort, and is faid to fcave been fortified by Oliver
Cromwell, hfo remains of any works there appear. There is a ftone ercted la
tf field to the N. -of the town. The tradition is, that a battle with the banes
had
QfDjfart. $23
General Ohfervations.— The people are well clothed, have
good houfes, and live comfortably. They ought to be, and
it is to be hoped, are, contented with their lot. No doubt
complaints are heard, and not altogether without reafon, from
fome in the lower Tanks, of the hardnefs of the times. Wo-
men, especially in the decline of life, find it hard to gain a
livelihood by Cpinning, which is almoft their -only employ-
ment. Farmers too complain -of *the difficulty of getting
bands for their work. And it is to be regretted, that agri-
cu tare* ufeful to heakh, favourable to morals, and indifpen-
fably neceffary to the well-being of a ftate, mould be (o muck
negle&ed. But we cannot expedk every thing to our wifh in
this world : and if .the above account of this paxifli be juft, it
will appear they have their own (hare of the comforts of this
life. May they never forget the obligations they are under
to Him from whom their blef&ngs flow ; and that godlinefs is
the only fure foundation they can Jay for lading profperity
and true enjoyment. M It i* profitable for all things, hav~
3 V 2 ing
Wbeen fought there. A -rivulet running through that field if called Kings,
law-burn. The caftle of Raveafcraig is fituated on a rock, projecting into the
fea, at the £. end of Pathhead. It was given by James III. te William St. Clair
Earl of Orkney, with the lands adjoining to it, when he rcfigucd the title of
Orkney. It has been ever fince poffefled by the family of St. Clair. It was in-
habited in Oliver Cromwell** time, and was fixed upon by a party of his troops.
It has, for many yean, been .uninhabited, and in a ruinous ftate. Three old
trees ftood together near the road from Dyfart to Pathhead. Two tradition*
'were handed down concerning them ; the one, that three brothers of the St. Clair
family had encountered there, during the night, miftaking one another for rob-
bers, and had fallen by each others hands ; that they were buried there, and
three trees pUnted on their graves. The other is, that all the ground on the
neighbourhood of Dyfart had been originally in wood ; and that when the wood
was cleared away, thefe three trees were left as a memorial of its former ftate.
They were much decayed, and three young ones have been planted in their
jriace. The arms of the town of Dyfart bear one tree : and it has long hee$,a
.proverb here. As old as the three trees of Dyfart*
j«4 Stotijtical Account
kig die promife of the life that now is, and of that which
is to come." To fee religion profper among them, wouh}
gratify the lagheft wifli of their pallor, who, having the com-
fort to be fettled in the place of his nativity, and being called
to be a fellow labourer with his father in the fame charge,
could not poffiblj dcfirca more eligible fituation for the ejer-
cife of his minifterial functions. He cannot but be interested
in every thing that relates to them, and efpeciallj in what
concerns their eternal welfare ; and his joy would be great, t%
perceive, from their conduft, th*t frjp labour* among then*
frave not beepi in vaiifc
NUM.
Of Markiwb* |t|
NUMBER XXXVL
PARISH or MARKINCH.
(Couvtt ajtd Synod of Fife, Presbttery of Kirkcaldt.)
Bj tbi Rn. Mr. Jp9w TapsfSQK*
m» ■ ■ ■ ti i .•* i i ■ ■ . *■■ ;
Name, Exttpt, Swfati, &c.
THE parifh church and village of Markinch ftaad upon
the fouthern declivity of an eminence, or little hill,
furrounded on all fides by a marfli ; and from this infular fi«
tuation, the laft part of the name is obvioufly derived. Mark,
or Merk, according to the moft ancient fpelling, has probably
been prefixed, from the valuation put upon this inch, or fpot
of ground. The greateft extent of the parifh from N. to S„
is five miles and a half ; and, from E. to W., about five miles,
-frhich may contain about 7000 acres. The form of the parift.
^s very irregular, being deeply indented in feveral places, by
die adjacent parishes* The village of Dubicfide, which con-
tains
£2$ SteH/lical Accoknt
has been mdftly put into elccellttit repair. Oh this road thtU
are feveral bridges withitt the boutids of this parifli ; but j
taly of fiich cdnfequence as to deferve notice ; one over thi
Orr, another ovfer Lochty, a fihall Watery about * faille N. of
the Orr ; and another over th* Leven, neat Balbirqje. Th£
firft of thefe is very old arid narrow *. The tfthet two havd
been lately rebuilt. There is another line of road, which
leads from Kirkcaldy to Cupar, and pants through the eaft-
etn jpatt of the parifli. Oh this rofcd there is an excellent
bridge over the Leven at Cameron. Theffe is alfo 4 public
toad, Which leids front Kinrofs tb Leveti * Largo, and the <iaft
coaft, and nfearly divides the parilh in the middle. It is in
tolerable briter* though not yet in the fame ftate of repair
with the two juft now mentioned. On the W. foad, there
is a toll-bar near the northern extremity of the parilh ; and
another oh the E. road, at Wihdygates, hear Cameron bridge.
Befides the bridges already taken notice of, there is one over
the Orr, about a mile and a half above its inn1** into the Le-
ven ; and two over the Leven, one at fialgonie j and the other
at BaHbur. The by-roads are in a Very bad condition. I*
wihtfcr, and in wet weather, even durhig the fummer month**
they are, in many places* alinoft impadable. This evil th€
parilh of Mar kinch feels in common with the reft bf the coun-
ty ; to remove which* feme efte&ual remedy ought futely t<*
be, as foon as poffible, applied; Good tdll roads are doubt-
Ms highly advantageous to a country: but the advantage will
be almoft entirely confined to paflengers, and thofe who lire
in the immediate neighbourhood, unlefi a ready coriiniunica-
tion with thefe be opened up for thfe remoter parts of th£
country, by putting the by-roads into a proper ftate of re-
pair.
* * It ftas built about 260 years ago, by James fiethiiae, arcablihop of Stl
Andrew's, fon to the laird of Balfour in this parilh.
3
Of Markinch. 529
Population— Markinch is, perhaps, one of the moll popu-
lous country parifhes in Fife ; the number of fouls amounting
to nearly 280c The return to Dr. Webfter in 1755, was
only 2188. Hence there is an increafe of about 612. This
extraordinary population may be accounted for from the fol-
lowing circumftances : There are 7 villages in the pariih,
which contain' about 400 families; and two large collieries,
which employ a great number of hands. The feuars are ve-
ry numerous, being about 120. There are a great many mills,
of different kinds, upon the Leven. Every farm of any con-
siderable extent has a cottage town upon it ; and there is a
great proportion of the heritors refident* who, befides the ex-
traordinary number of fervants they keep, employ a much
greater number of labouring people, than tenants could be
fuppofed to do *.
Heritors and Rent. — The principal heritors are the Earl of
Leven, Mr. Balfour of Balbirnie, Colonel Wemyfs of Wernyfsi
♦Mr, Bcthune of Balfour, and the Counters of Rothes. Be-
sides thefe, there are feveral other refpedable gentlemen, who
poffefs confiderable property in the pariih, and a number of
fmall proprietors. The number of the whole is 21, of whom
11 are refident. The valued rent amounts to 10,4561. 5 s.
Scotch money. The real rent cannot be exadly afcertained, a§
many of the proprietors are refident, and have a confiderable
Vol. XII. 3 X quantity
* Since the year 1785, when the prefent incumbent was admitted, the po-
pulation of the parifh has increafed about 200, owing to the re-erection of Eal-
gonie colliery, which had not been wrought for 40 years, and a great many nevr
feus, granted lately by the Earl of Leven. Within the laft fix or feven years,
about 80 new houfes hare been built, and 8 rebuilt, befides a great many more,
which are building. The expenfe of thefe buildings may amount to 4000 1.
Sterling. The divilion of the inhabitants, and any other circumstance relative
to the population of the parifh, neccfiary to be.remark.ed, will be ices in thee Sta-
tistical Table hereto annexed.
$yy Statifficol Account
quantify of their land in their own pofleffion. As nearly as
it can be calculated, it may amount to upwards of 5000 1.
a-year. Within the laft 20 yearsr the rents have rifen above
aooo 1.. a-year ; and they are daily advancing. The rent of
land, let in large farms, is from 10 s. to 2*s. the acre. Small
pieces of ground, if of fuperior quality, or in the immediate
neighbourhood of the villages, will bring from 30 ft* to 40*.
the acre*
Agriculture. — Some Jrars ago, the method of farming, in this
parifh, was extremely rude, flovenly, and unproductive. Ex-
cepting the pleafure*ground around gentlemen's feats, and fome
enclofures, which the refidmg proprietors kept in their owb
hands, the whole parifh almoft Jay open and unenclofed. Few
turnips were Town ; and very little ground laid out in clover
and rye-grafs. The land was ill tilled ; no pains taken to make,
tor to keep it clean,* and the fcanty allowance of manure in-
judicioufly applied. In confluence of this, the grain was oE
an interior quality, and brought a lower price at the market.
But of late* by the example of the gentlemen, who begin t»
pay more attention fo the improvement of their eftates, by
the regulations fixed in the new leafes, and by the exertions
of fome intelligent, fubilantial, and enterprifing farmers, agri-
culture begins to aflame a more promifing afpecl. Though
much of the parifh ft ill lies open, enclofing is going on very
rapidly. The turnip hufbandry, becomes more and more exten*
five every year. A great deal of land, is fown with clover and
rye-grafs. More attention is paid to fallowing, and cleaning ;
and more, judgment fhown in cropping the lands. The ju-
dicious farmer keeps more of his land for hay and pafturc,
and lefs in tillage than formerly $ by thefe means, as well aa
by the quantity of turnips railed, and con fumed upon his farm,
ihe quantity of manure is increafed, and he enabled, to do
' more
Of Markincb. 531
mere juftice to his grounds. The ufe of Kme -too, -as a ma-»
niire, is becoming very general. One tenant lately laid up-
on his farm, upwards of 1500 bolls of (hells, or unflacked
lime, in one feafon. The Scots plough is ft ill ufed by many,
1>ut its conftrudtkm has been miuh in proved, by which
means it is rendered eai:er i\:r t'ie htfrfes, an.l makes better
work, than formerly. However, the En glim plough, with
the curved mould bonrd, of cuft m«tal, is twining fatt into ufe.
Where the land is dry and clean, a c uple of horfes are only-
yoked into the plough, and the man who holJs the plough,
drives the horles : but in wet, d^ep, a d ftrung land, catile
are (till ufed along with the horfes. This method is certain-
ly very proper, torfuch a foil; as the fleady, deliberate ftep
of the cattle gves a due check to the huiry and impatient
ardour, natural to horfes, in wet deep ground*.
Produce— <Oats, andl>afky, or 1>landed bear, are the pre-
vailing crops. Blanded bear, or rammel, as the country peo-
ple here call it, is the produce of barley and common beat
4b wn in a mixed (late. Thcfe are diftinguifhed chiefly by the
form or ftru&ure of -the ear ; the barley having only two
rows of grain, and the common bear fix. Barley is a ftrong-
*r and larger grain than the bear. It lies longer in the ground
fcefore it fprings, and is later in ripening. And thefame dif-
3X9 icrence
* Though improvement? in agriculture «re making confdetable advances,
fftt there is one bar, which, unjefs removed, muft greatly retard their progrefs,
and prevent their ever coming to perfection ; I mean the difindi nation of the
proprietors to give leafes of a fufficient length of time. To enclofe, and fub-
tfivide, and clean, and- manure to purpofe, a farm of any confiderabk extent,
svould require from 500 1. to ioqe I. But there are few farmers who woujA
rtfk fuch an expenfe upon a leafe of xp yean. To accelerate the improvement
of land, and to bring it to its higheft date of cultivation, the proprietors mult:
either encourage the exertions of the farmer, by granting longer leafes, or Ufcc
t£e trouble,and jxpenfes upon themfclvcf,
J3 * Statiftical Account
ference is obfervable, when they are made into malt. It if
remarkable, however, that when barley and common bear
Lave been cultivated, for fome time, in a mixed ftate, they
fpring, and ripen, and malten equally ; and little difference
in point of ftrength or fize is difcernible. This is probably
owing to the pollen of the two fpecies mixing and falling in*
difcriminately upon both, when the plant is impregnated, and
thereby producing a famenefs in the quality of the grain*
wbilft the external form of the ear of each is preferred dis-
tinct. Correfponding to this idea, the blanded bear holds a
middle place, in point of quality, between barley and com-
mon bear. Though inferior to the former, it is of a better
quality than the latter. This mixed kind of grain is wear-
ing out, and the culture of clean barley becoming more ge-
neral. Till lately, little wheat was fown in this parifh : at
prefent, between 80 and 100 acres may be raifed annually.
It is doubtful, however, when the nature of the foil, in ge«
serai, is considered, whether it would be advantageous to the
farmers here, to pufli the cultivation of wheat to any confi*
jierable extent, at leaft, till the improvement of the ground
is brought to a higher degree of perfection than it is at pre*
fent. Nearly as much land may be employed in railing peafe
jand beans ; and upwards of 100 acres for flax. It may be
proper to obferve here, that whilft improvements of other
]tinds have been attended to, the culture of flax dill conti-
nues to be conducted in a very injudicious and unprofitable
manner* The fanners, befides fowing a quantity for them.
felves, their fervants, and harveft reapers, let fo much of
their land to others, who cither are adventurers in that ar*
tide, and raife considerable quantities, or who raife it folely
for the ufe of their own families. Little attention is paid
either to the choice of the foil, or the preparation of the
ground i and of cqurfc, whilft the produifc is fmall, general «
Of Marluncb. 553
Ij not above two, and fotnetimes not above one tron (lone,
from the peck of feed, the land i9 fcourged, and a great deal
of extraordinary labour and manure necefiary to fit it for a
facceeding crop. Potatoes too are raifed in large quantities;
Betides what every farmer plants for his own ufe, all the
cottagers upon the farm, and many of the inhabitants of the
adjacent villages, take as much land for potatoes as they can
plant with their afhes, and what dung they can procure ; and
for this, they either pay money, or labour in harveft. The
jent at which land is let, for flax or potatoes, is generally from
3 1. to 4 1. the acre ; and when let in fmaller quantities, it is
from 13d. to i8d. the 100 fquare yards*
Cattle. — The breeding of horfcs, and particularly of black
cattle, has of late become an objeft of general attention.
Moft of the principal fanners* befides rearing young cattle,,
graze in fummer, and feed upon turnips in winter, .a con*
fiderable number for the butcher* Formerly, every farmer,
almoft, kept a quantity of flicep : but now they are totally
banifhed, except a few, which fome of the refiding proprie-
tors breed for their own ufe, and thefe are moftly of the largo
white faced kind. The farm fteads, with a few exceptions,
are ample and commodious, and every farm of any confider*
able extent, has a cottage town upon it. This is of great ad-
*antage,to the fanner ; as it enables him to furnifh a houfe and
garden, or kail-yard, to fuch of bis men fervants as are mar*
ried ; and the other houfes he can kt upon fuch terms, as to
fecure the labour of the cottagers in harveft, or at any other
feafoo, when extraordinary aftftaace may be neceflary.
Mills and Mvlt*rej*~*-Then are a great many earn mills
in the pariGi; every heritor of any confiderable property, or
fcrbo baa the command of water, having a mill upon ki$ eftate,
5 34 Stdtifikal Account
to which his tenants are ufually thirled. The multures are
vety high, amounting to one 13th part of the value of the
^rain carried to the mill. For this, it is true, the mill mat-
ter does a great deal of duty. He .carries the grain from the
farmer's barn, dries, and grinds it, and brings it home.
. Manufactures. —On the Leven, near Balbirnie bridge, a
manufacture of linefeed oil hath been eftablifhed for a good
many years* which hath been carried on to a confiderable ex-
tent. This manufacture is not only profitable to the manu-
facturers themfelves, but advantageous to the country around,
as it furniihes a ready market, and ready money, for all the
lintfeed produced in the neighbourhood, which, being unfit
for fowing, could not turn to acoo»nt any other way.— There
16 alfo in this parifti, a Meachfield, where a large - quanti-
ty of cloth is whitened every year. It is under the beft
management, and gives general fatisfa&ton. In the vil-
lage of Markinch, a flocking manufacture has been fet oa
foot lately, and promifes to do well. Some time ago, a con-
fiderable quantity of brown linen was manufactured for lale*
But of late, that kind o£ work has been moftly relinquish* d,
and the weavers, not engaged in country work, have been
employed by the great manufacturers on the eoaft, in making
checks and ticks, and from the flourishing ftate of thefe nuu
imfa&ures, and the extraordinary rife of wages, the number
of weavers hath greatly incieafed. There are a few who
carry on bufinefs for themfelves, on a fmall feale, and employ
from 6 to 12 hands. Manufactures of different kinds, par*
ticularly of fpinning and weaving, might be carried on ia
this parith with much advanuge. The water of Leven af-
fords mjmy excellent fituations for machinery. Coal is at
band, and abundant. There is great plenty of good freeftone
£ox building? and, therefore, flioulcj any man of ability and
«nterpri&
Of Markincb. j^j
•etcrprifc fet a bufmefs of this kiod on foot, it might be
highly beneficial to himfelf, and to the country around ; and
would be well worthy the countenance and encouragement of
the gentlemen in the immediate neighbourhood ; as, by em-
ploying a number of hands, it would furnilh a ready market
for the produce of their eftates, and of courfe heighten their
yalue.
Ecclefiqftical State. — The church of Markincb is a very an-
cient place of religious worfliip*. The King is patron. The
living conMs of 1 28 bolls of victual, Linlithgow meaiure,
half meal and half barley, and 500 1. Scotch, in money ; in-
cluding iool. Scotch for communion elements, befides a manfc
and 8 acres of glebe f. There are no Seceding meeting-
houfes in thk parifh. The great body of the people conti-
nue ftedfaftly attached to the Eftablifbed Church, about one
16th part only having joined the different fe&aries.
Schools*
* It was given by Maldvimu, Bi(6op of St. Andrew's; to the Culdees in the
10th century. Towards the end of the 12th century, it was mortified to the
Priory of St. Andrew's, by £ugenius the fon of Hugo, a fecond fon of Gilli-
nichol M'Duff, the 4th Earl of Fife, which deed was confirmed by a chartes
©f King William. From this Eugenius, the family of the Earl of Wemyfs is
fuppofed to htfre fprung. About the beginning of the 17th century, the fmall
parfonftge of Kirkforthar, belonging to' Lindfay of Kirkforthar, a cadet of the
family of Crawford, was fupprefled and annexed to Marlunch. The ruins of
the church of Kirkforthar are it ill to be feen : they (land iu the middle of the
•Id church -yard, or burying- ground, which is enclofed by a wall ; and there
many of the people belonging to that diftrict ftill bury their dead.
f In the year 1636, the ftipend received a fnaall augmentation, on account of
the annexation of Kirkforthar. Since that period, it has been but once aug-
mented, and the augmentation got, was only a el. of money, and the conver-
fxon of fome oats into meal. Among the predeceflbrs of the prefent incumbent
was Mr. TuUideiph, afterward Principal of the College of St. Andstw's*
5 $6 Stati/Hcal Account
Schools.-— There is one eftabliihed fchoolmafter in this paw
tifiu He has a good houfe and garden, with a falary of 10 L
a- year. The fcbool-fees are, 33. for teaching latin, as. 6d\
for arithmetic, 25. for writing, and is. 6d. for cngltw. And,
as the village of Mark inch, and the country in the imme-
diate neighbourhood, are very papulous, the emoluments are
confiderable. Including precentor's fees, and other pcrqui-
fites, thej ma j amount to 50I. a-year. Befides the eftablifh-
ed fchool, there are 6 private fchools in different parts of the
parira, the moil confiderable of which, is fixed at the CoaU
town of Balgonie. This is under the immediate patronage
of Lady Balgonie, who has built* at her own expenfe, a
fchool-houfe, and a houfe for the fchool mailer ; and by the
encouragement (he has afforded, and the perfooal attention (he
has paid to it, has greatly contributed to its profperity and
fuccefs. Her Ladyfhip has alfo eftabliflied, at the fame place,
a fchool for teachings young-girls to few ; and has provided a
houfe for the miftrefs, with an apartment for teaching, and
has given fuch encouragement, as to induce a woman of cha-
racter and abilities to undertake the management of it. At
thefe different fchools, upwards of 200 children are conftaet*
ly taught, a^moll all of whom belong to the pariih*
State of the Poor. — There are at prefent 20 poor people on
the roll, who get regular fupply every week j befides feveral
others, who are affiled occafionally as their neceffities require.
The fum expended annually for this purpofe, is ab'.ut 60 L
Sterling, arifing from a fund of 320 1., the weekly collec-
tions at the church-door, and the dues of the mortcloths*
There are no begging poor belonging to the pariih.
Prices of Grain and Provifions*— For fome years pad, the
average price of wheat has been 20 s», of barley 15 s. of
3 blanded
Of MarKncK $37
%lan4ed bear 14 s., of common bear 13 s. 4d., of oats xas.,
and of oatmeal 15 s. the bolL The wheat boll is nearly 4
Winchefter bufhels, the barley and oat boll 6 Winchefter
bufhels, and the meal boll 8 Dutch ftone. Beef, mutton,
pork, lamb, and veal, fell commonly at 4^ d. the pound, o(
a a ounces. At particular feafons, however, when thefe ar-r
ticlea ave plentiful, they fall to 3* d., and at other times*
when they are Jcarce, rife to 5 cL» or even to 6* d. the pound.
The price of all kinds of poultry has advanced greatly of
late* A fed goofic will fell at 3 s. 6 d., a turkey at 4 3., a hen
at s a*, and chickens at 6 d. or 8 d. the pair. Butter fells at
9d.9 common cheefe at 3 d., and fweet. milk cheefe at 44 d.
the pound* Batter and chet£t are fold by the fame weight
with butcher meat. Some years ago, £& of all kinds were,
abundant and cheap. But new the price tamore than doubled.
This extraordinary rile is owing partly to fcarcity, anjl partly
to the increafed confumption of the Edinburgh- matke ft,
. Prices of Labour.— The, wages of day4abourers, fron^
March, to O&ober, ase from is.toii.ady and for the reft
of the year from &d» to so d., varying according to the na~
ture of the work in which they axe employed. In harveft,
men get 10 d.,. and women 8d. a-day, with their meat.
When hired- for the* whole harvef^, men have a guinea, and
women xj s. or %6 s. and their maintainance ; and generally
the privilege of feme lint fowa. Men Servants, who eat in
the houfe, get of wages from 5 1. to 7 h a-year, and maid fer-
yants from 2 1. to 3 J- Farm fiervants* who feraifh their own:
provifions, get 64- bolls of meal, and an allowance fox milk^
befides their wages. Sometimes they have a houfe and kail-
yard, and a cow fed through the year, and, in that cafe, their
wages are not fo high. Tailors get 8 d. a<»dayv with their
nieat ; mafops have x s. 8 d. ; and carpenters I s. 6d. Withv
Vol. XIL 3 Y in
538 Statiftical Account
in thefe laft ten years, the price of labour, in general, has ad-
vanced in the proportion of 3 to 2.
Innsj and Ak-houjhs. — Upon the W. road, there are two
excellent inns, the New Inn at Pittillock-ford, and the Plafter-
ers, near Balbirnie bridge, Thefe are fnperior to mod, and
equal to any in the county. "There are 10 ale-houfes in the
parifh, which fell porter, whiiky, and fmall-beer. Some of
thefe brew, and the reft purchafe fmall-beer from brewers,
partly for fale in the houfe, and partly to fupply private fa-
milies with that article. Though ale-houfes are generally
hurtful to the induftry and morals of the people, thefe bad ef-
fects have not been fenfibly felt in this parifh* '
Minerals and Foffils* — In the eftate of Balbirnie, there is
an extenfive bed of {hell marl. The {hells are moftly wilks
(periwinkles) and mufcles. When expofed to the air, they fall
in a fhort time to powder. The medium thicknefs of the bed
is 3*- feet under a cover of 7 or 8 feet. This marl was disco-
vered a great many years ago ; and it is furprifing, that fucti
a fund of manure {hould have been1 neglected for fo long a
time, efpecially as there is level enough to drain it, at no
great expenfe. There is abundance of freeftone in the pariih,
and fome of it of excellent quality. On the N. fide of the
parifh, there is a large mofs, from which a confiderable quan-
tity of peats is dug every year. Thefe are partly ufed by
the poorer people in the immediate neighbourhood, and part-
ly carried to more diftant places, and fold for the purpofe of
Jundling fires. * '
But what chiefly deferves to be mentioned under this
article, is the plentiful fupply of excellent coal, which this
pariih enjoys. Balgohie coal * is within a mile and a half
" S.E.
• Balgonie coal, the property of the Earl of Levcn, was difcovered and
wrought
Of Markinck 539
' « ,. .
S. £• of the yillage, and Balbirnie coal within half that
di&ance to the W. Both thefe collieries are too diftant from
a fea-port for exportation j but the whole inland part of Fife,
for many miles round, ai»d even N. to the river Taj, is top-
plied .from them. The former has a water engine, with a
wheel 16 feet diameter, which works two pumps to the depth
3Y2 , of
wrought upwards of 300, foffle fajr'500 Jears ago. As far back as the year 1517,
the Coaltown of Balgonie is mentioned in a fcheote of divifion and valuation of
the county of Vife, of that date. The name of the village evidently indicates, that
it had been originally built for the accommodation of the colliers, or, becaufe
bnilt on* the ground where coal had been found and wrought. But fince it had
grown to fuch confederation at the above mentioned period, as to be taken no-
tice of in the general defcription and valuation of the county, it muft have ex-
ifted, and, of courfe, the coal muft have been wrought for a confiderable time
before. That this coal had been wrought at an early period, to a confiderable ex-
tent, appears from the coal wafte, which can yet be traced for upwards of
3 miles along the line of bearing, and which had been dried by a free level to
the depth, at an average, of 14 fathoms. It would appear, however, that when
the free level coal was wrought out, the workings ceafed. How long ago this
happened, it is impoffible to fay. The grandfather of the oldeft man living on
the (pot 66 years ago, had neither feen it wrought, nor had he Seen any perfon
who could tell at what period it topped. In the year 1731, it was again fet
a-going by Alexander Earl of Leven, who erected a water engine, which
wrought two fets oi pumps, with o inch working barrels, and which dried the
coal to the depth of 30 fathoms. In the yeaf 1732, this coal was let to tackf-
mon, who carried it on for fome years, but meeting with large hitches yielding
much water, their engine was overpowered, which obliged the tackfman to a-
bandon this fpot, and erect, a wind-mill at A Httle diftance on the crop, leaving
a fufficient barrier to keep off the water, which drained « fmall b re aft of the
coal. This mill wrought an 8 inch bore 14 fathoms deep, which enabled then!
to carry on a more extenfive winning * farther on the dip, than the old level free
waftes. During this operation, George Balfour, Efq. of Balbirnie, wrought up
a level to the coal in his eftatc, anno 1740, which enabled him to undcrfell the
tackfman of this coal; by which means, in 1743, they were obliged to give it up,
there not being demand for both. Nothing more was done till the year 1785,
when Lord Balgonie erected it again, by fittiug up the preient engine.
* Whatever extent of coal is dried, either by a free level, or an engine, it is
called, in the language of the collier st ^winning, i. e. a gaining of the coal.
jf 40 StatiJHcal Account
of 30 fathoms, with 12} inch working barrels. What tike
late tackfman intended, is now carried into effeft by die prc-
fent winning, which commands a very fine breaft of corf ii*
both feams. The lowerxridft feamr is yfet untouched wWb
this winning. The main feam, not* working, confifts of
Feet.
lack.
A mixture of fplirit cherry coaj 2nd rough coal,
3
O
Stone, -.-•--
0
4
Rough coal, which includes 9- inches of fine cherry,
3
O
Stone, - - -
0
4
Rough coal, •
1
2
Stone, - * * - .
0
3
fine ftrong fplint, ~
1
6
fine Chetrjv - - ' -
0
\
Total between roof and pavement, 9 11
The roof confifts of hard blue till, about 10 feet thick, above
which are ftrong pofts of freeftene, fome of which are very
tard. The other feam lies xo fathoms deeper 5, it is (aid tor
be a very fine coal, 7 feet thick, but hat fame fmall ribs of
ftone in it. The average out. put for the laft Ibur years ft a-
bout 30 tons a-day^ and fo much is the cafe altered fince 1743^
that there is a great demand,- anil the confumption is daily
increafrog. This coal dipt to the E. at the engine, but to the
& E., after paffing a large hitch about 500 yards from the
engine pit, on the line of bearing at the crop, the dip, or de-
clivity, is exa&ly a fathom in 3 ; but, in the dip workings,,
only one fathom in 4f ; which gives ground to believe that it
will at laft flatten altogether, and even crop out at the ©ppo-
fite point of the compafsr which, if the cafe, will make it a Ve-
ry productive colliery.
Balbknie coal Ues both in the Balbirnie eftatertfae proper.
Of Markinth. 541
tf af>hn Balfour, E*q. and hi Lett!* eftdte, the prtfcetty df
the Counteft of Rathe*, fefclrJg on* and the fafoe fear* : and h
catted Leflie of BalUtiftitf tfbd, afccording to the tftafe, ifr w&kh
th* works are 4tr tike tine* But as akoefft the whole of k*
lew! toe, afid in*** than K^f the aade*k*el *ft in Balbirnfe
eftate, it is generally known by the «ame of Baftime eoai %
and coafifts of two fptrie*, edited the Bttf 6 coal tod ffe gr e*f
cool, Tte quality <rf (** litg* ec*l it extremely g&nL It is
a cherry eoal, baa fase&ng tftht eating qnality, as it work*
km *aty waU^ an* k th* «*% eofcl k this part of Fife that
will d* fo ; ft* which purptfa the Ve*y fiftsSfeft parfkfcs of
k are fold to tte iltofcto ofo the eftaft of File, froifc Dyfart €*
St. Andrew's, and the whole inland part of the country, er-»
tending to ieeo tons annually, befides the quantity of great
teal, in the ftate aftermentioned. It varies in thicknefe {torn
6 feet to 4 feet. The diftance between roof and paveihcnt is
generally the fame. When a ft one is found in the middle of the
Seam, the coal diminifhes in tbicknefs, as the ftone increafcfc,
till at laft, if the ftone be very thick, the coal is fo much thin-
dad as to be hardly worth working. This field of coal is not
a regular
* When this coal was firft difcoveved, cannot now be known, but it appears
to lave been wrought at an early period near Balbimie Burns, firft by a free
level, and afterward by tome fort of pump*, at a place called the Puthp Sink,
to the northward of BaUrirnie hooXe. Old pits can be here traced along the
crop, but the period thefc were wrought,- is unknown. About the year 1730,
George Balfour, Etquire of Balbirnie, a gentleman who had paid coafiderable
attention to the ftudy of mineralogy, began firft to trace tile ftrata by bote*
and othetwife, from thefc old waftes* through great part of his eftate to the
river Levcn, nearly one mile diftant; — then began at the river, andr by a ftone
mine acrofs the metals, wrought into the coal, and thus made it level free to a
great extent, about the year 1740. By this level, it was wrought from that
date, till the year 178a In finking the firft pit on the level, a feain was found
it. inches thick of the little coal, and through the whole field it is exactly 21
feet above the main coal every where. The fame gentleman bored la. fathoms
through the main coal in fearcbef other fleams, but found none above 3 inches
thick.
^ I
54* Statiftkal Acrthnt
ft regular one : it lied very deafly in the form of a hoHe-Jhoef
fappofing ft 5 or 6 titnes broader than ordinary* and the opert
fpace of the common fi^e. At the place where firft difcover-*
ed, a little to the N* df the river Leven* the dip was direcUy
S. In forking forward, the field divided in two ; onfc level
run toward .the N. W., another to the N. E., and the crop
was wrought till Within 14 feet of the furface* The two
branches of the level fejJarated further and further; and the
two crops did the fame* leaving a fpace of many hundred fa*
thorns between; in which was neither coal* nor appearance of
it : this fpace refembled the open part of thehorfe-flioe. The
encreafing confumption of coal will appear from the following
ftate :
From 1740 to 1763, the 4u*°tity of coal Ibid at Balbtrdie appear* to
have been 4M35 loads, or 8,427 tons annually, which, in 23 years, is 192,811
From 1763 to 1777, DOtn inclufive, the average Tales were 46,719
loads, or 9,343 tons annually, - Z4°it57
From 1778 to 1792, both inclunve, the average quantity was 54,660
, loads.*, or 10,933 tons annually, - 163,980
In 1784, owing to a fcheme of lowering the price of the coal to all
who were more than ten miles diftant from the coal-works, there
was an additional quantity fold; not included in the foregoing aver- "
age*df - 4,047
Total number of tons fold in 32 years, 500,995
On the Ihppofition* that the demand for coal fhould not in-
crease above the avferage of the laft 15 years, being 10^932
tons annually, but continue the fame ^ and although one half
of the whole field of coal were yet entire (which certainly is
not the cafe), an equal quantity would be entirely exhaufted
in lefs than 46 years. But die increafing confumption mtift
beimmenfe, when it is confidered, that during the firft 40
years, there was no other coal-work, except this; to fupply
this
* The loads in the above computation contain 27 ftone Dutch weight each,
which is one ^hird more than the fale load, or load fold to the country* The
.former is known by the name of the collier's load*
Of Markincb. 54 3
this part of Fife, and that during the laft feven years the coal
pf Balgonie has alfo been wrought, and has fupplied the coun*
try with 9000 tons annually, notwithftanding of which, the
ponfumption of this coal is continually on the increafe *.
Antiquities*
* Since 1780, 3 witcr engines haye been erected upon this coaL The firft
works 2 pumps, 14 inch working barrels ; the fecond, a pumps of n inches dia-
meter; the third, 2 pumps 15 inch diameter, of the working barrel; and a-
bout 20 fathoms left from the coal, to a mine in which the water is delivered
5 fathoms below the furface of the ground. Above the rock is gravel, which
admits the winter fains to pais through the numerous cutters in the ftrata,
conveys it down to the coal, and is the great caufe of fuch powerful engines
being neccflary to drain the coaL It is a pretty general opinien, that all coals
are as good in quality, or better, in the dip than towards the crop. Alfo, that
any coal once discovered, may be wrought to any depth from which it is pof*
Able to draw the water. But what has recently happened in this very coal,
gives reafon to believe that opinion, however general, to be erroneous ; for,
when the engines were firft erected, from the favourable appearance of the
furface of the ground, compofed of flat and gently riling fields of vaft extent,
and from the extreme flatnefe of the coal, which did not dip above 1 in is, of-
ten not above 1 foot in 20, it had the appearance of being almoft inexhauft-
able, or, at leaft, that the under level coal would be much more extenfive than
the crop already wrought ; but the very reverfe of this was found to be the
cafe. 'An engine erected at the trifling depth of 20 fathoms, in the fliort fpace
of 10 years from its erection, was found not only deep enough, but actually
deeper than any coal In that field. In working up the engine level, it was
found to go deeper than any part of the coal : dead water was kept till the coal
was found entirely cut off in the dip by a gravel dike, compofed of gravel and
large bullet whirr /tones, all of them rounded as if they had been long tofled
about in water. The level was puttied on through this gravel, till it was found
impracticable to proceed with fafety to the workmen : the coal was, therefore,
wrought along the fide of this dike, as deep as there was any coal, and in the
progrefs of the work, the coal to the dip on the weft fide of the field, which
this engine was erected to drain, not only turned out to be of bad quality, but
its thicknels was diminished by a hard ftone which divided the feam in two,
extending from 1 to 4 feet in thicknefs, fo hard as only to be wrought with
gunpowder ; which added fo much to the expenfe, that the coal could not be
wrought with profit, and' was therefore abandoned altogether, and the third
engine erected on the E. part of the fame coal where the feam was found s3
* feet
544 Sfatjflkd Account
Antiquities, ^fc.r*-Balg<raie cattle* one of the teats of the
Earl .of Levqn, is a fabric of gr$a$ antiquity, and confU
dcrable
ieet thick, without any ftone at all. The proprietor wrought up a level along
the fide of the river Lcven, about half a mile fn length, which kneiied the lift
of the engine 5 fathoms. In working up this mine, about 150 fathoms from the
place where he intended to erect his engine, he found the metals on edge perfect-
ly perpendicular ; a little further, he found them dip I fathom in 3, and that to
the weft, directly contrary to the dip of the coal, and there he found two feama
«f coal, with 7 fathoms of ftone between them ; the firft, i{ feet* sad the other,
3 feet thiek, dip 1 in 3. About 50 fathoms farther, he found flat metal rifiog
to the weft, the proper rife of the coal in that part of the field. Thcfe ap-
pearances gave him reafon to believe the main coal did not. extend far to the
dip, but was either cut off by thefe edge metals, or would be found on the dip
fepara.ted by a ftone into two feams, and Suddenly thrown out to the furface in
the form of the two feams he had mfcovered in his mine, by* a rife of- 1 fathom
m 3, directly contrary to the ordinary crop of the coat Is osdrr to dtfcowet
this, as foon aa the engine was ete&ed, a tare} mine we* pnlhed on to the
eaftward ; The coal was found perfectly good till he approached within 50 &~
thoms of the edge metals, where a ftone made its anpeatmnee in the middle
of the coal,ene inch thick, 6 fathoms farther, i* incxeaied to 1% inches thick,
and continued to incoeafe tiU it was found impracticable to be wrought, and
appeared fairly to divide the feasn of coal in two, correfponding in thickness tsj
the two edge feams he had discovered in the (aid mine. The coal continues flat,
but it can hardly be doubted, that if the level is driven 20 fathom* farther* it
will rife the oppofite way, 1 fathom in 3 *. Since this. is. the cafe upon the E,
part of the field, it is not eafy to acoount, why the fame thing has not happened
on the weft part of the Came field, where the gravel dike intervenes, and cute
off the coal in place of the edge metals : the probability; is, that the edge
metals are alfo there, and that the coal will terminate and be thrown out to
the furface by them in the fame way, though in this part the gravel dike feema
to be thru (I in, between the flat and the edge metals ; and is of great thick-
eels, as a trial was made at right angles, a hundred fathoms distant* and 17 fa-
thom*
• Since ^writing the above, an upfet hat been pTtftted forward, ami the coal.
eSually found to rife, at f uppo fed-above t 1 fatbom us 5 ; awtit. will, na doubt,
a little further on, fife x fathom in 3, and crop out at the furface ; and the
fione will increafe in tbuknef;, till it, U> fount 7 fathoms at the furface, atuk
the main coal it thrown out there, in the fount of the two feams, above men-
tioned. l
6
Of Marklncb. 545
Aerable ftrength. The time when it was built cannot be
exa&ly afcertained ; but from the beft information that can
Vol. XII. 3 Z be
thorn Jeep, Where, ill place of the rock and ordinary metal* above the coal,
nothing bat gravel wat found ; from which it may be concluded, that the dike
exceeds 100 fathoms in thicknela, how much more, it is hard to fay ; at the
diftance of another 100 fathoms, the edge metals are feen m this part of the
field alfo, which deftroys every hope of the main coal being again found be-
yond the dike. From what has appeared in the ealt part of the field, it feems*
pretty certain, that if the coal is found at all, it will be in the form of two ,
learns on edge, thruft fcddenly up to the furface by thefe edge metals, and con-
fequently of fmall extent and little value.
From what is above recited, it may be inferred, that it is not always fafe to
irufl^to the dip fide of a feam of coal being of value, though the crop has been
found good, which was the cafe here, the crop having been wrought for 40
years, and every where in the natural level found good, and yet the <iip on die
weft half of the field has been exhaufted in lefs than 1 2 years, at leaft, all that
was found valuable in it ; how long the dip of the eaft part of the field now
working may laft, it is hard to fay, though it is fcarce poilible, allowing the
quality to be good through the whole extent of the known field, that any coal
will remain to work 50 years hence.
From the foregoing hiftory of two Valuable fields of coal, and fa&s above re-
cited, fome veiy important conclufions may be drawn, viz.
1. The limited and fmall extent of coal fields.
2. Hie increafing confumption of the coal and its limited extent, gives rea-
fon to apprehend its being totally exhauiteti;
The limited extent of all coal, may be inferred from its being impoffible to
trace any, very far in the line of bearing. Balgonie coal may be ranked a-
mong the regular ones, as the line of bearing is the fame with the general bear-
ing of the ftrata in the greateft part of Britain, where they are not thrown out
of their courfe by adventitious caufes, fuch as dikes, mountain rocks of a dif-
ferent fpecies from the ftrata that accompany coal, and fometimes by the wav-
ing and twilling of the coal metals themfelves, which frequently alter the line
of bearing, as well as the dip of the coal, to all the points of the compafs.
Such regular feams as this, with fo confiderable a dip, may be thrown out of
their courfe by dikes and flips, but generally keep the fame line of bearing.
The very flat feams, fuch as Balbirnie coal, being much more liable to wave
and twift, till the dip and crop are in the oppofite direction from the regular
courfe of bearing. It may be worth inquiry, why the moft regular feams of
coal can be fcldom purfued in the line of bearing above a few miles, for the
faft
j4<§ Stattflical Account
be got, if appears to 1>e of the fame age with the t3rffce>
dral bf St, Andrew's, which was built in the 12th cen-
tury.
hCt is, few or no feams in this partftf Fife, reach above 2 or 3 miles in length*
at moft, and many not half that diftanle ; iqi inftance, DyCurt coal which has jhe
fame line of bearing with Balgonie, has been wrought from the fca-fide about
a miles, where, near the water of Orr, it is entirely cut off and no more feem
Aboat half a mile E», and 1 mile N., the S. extremity of Balgonie coal ap-
pears, and keeps the fame line of bearing, as well as refembles Dyfart coal
fame what in quality, but not in thicknefe ; Dyfart coal being 22 feet, and Bal-
gonie'coal only 9 feet thick ; the declivity pretty much the fame. At the dif-
tance of 3 miles, this coal, and all the ftrata accompanying it, is alfo cut off;
And not the leaft veftige or appearance of that eoal, or any other, has been dif-
eovered within fome miles of it. Wemyfs coal, Methel, and Durrie coal, are
as regular feams as either Dyfart or Balgonie, bot none of them can be traced
farther fcrlhevlihe of bearing ; (hey are all cut off in the fame manner before
they are -2* Wiles from the* fee* The more inland coals distant 8 or zo miles
from the Frith* of Forth, rucb as Burnturk, PirieOie, Divan, and Glatty, are
fituated on the fides of biUs of fmall extent, the -metals of which have no con-
tinued line either'of bearing or declivity ; and the - coal in thefe -fituations con-
fequently fubject to all the irregularities ever found in coal works. Some of
the feams are evert feen to crop out quite round a fmall eminence. And even
fmall as the extent of thofe fields is, the coal is found full of dikes, hitches,
and all imaginable troubles ; which render them fcarce worth working. Be-
yotfd'this, in the fiat country, along the banks of the Xden, no coal has ever
been difcovered. And from this to the Tay, there are no ftrata ever difcovered
that indicate coal being there : nor. are there fufficient fymptoms even to en-
courage trials for coal, with any rational hope of fucceft.
The Fife coals, even the moft regular, being -thus contracted in the line of
bearing, are comparatively of very fmall extent, compared with the idem a
ft ranger has of them, on a flight view of the number of pits he fees at work
on the various feams. Such a perfon, if unacquainted with the natural biftorjr
of coal and its ftrata, is apt to fuppofe the whole country full of coal ; the very
dikes and interruptions in the bearing of the ftrata, racreafes the deception,
ihowing, as he fuppofes, a ftill greater number of feams and extent of coaL
For inftance, a perfon unacquainted with the interruptions met with in -coal
fields, fees Dyfart coal and Balgonie both at work, he imagines the one may be
wrought N.xra the line of bearing, as far as the lomonds, 6 miles diftant, and
the other S. to the fea, and N. to the Eden, whenever the proprietors ohoofe to
do fo j and hence he concludes, both coals almoft inexhauftibie ; but investigate
the
• Of MarBncb. % 547
tury. This cattle is pleafantly fituated on the S. bank of the
Leven, elevated about 36 feet above the ]>e4 of the river. It
3 Z 2 is
.the fubject thoroughly by proper judges, and they will -declare the attempt
•Vain, to jrarfue the one further N., or the other either S. at NM than it hti been
already done. And what he imagined inezhauftible feams, may poffibly be
entirely wrought eut in lets than too years. I mall not attempt to account foe
the frequent interruptions in, the line of bearing of the coal, and all other ftrata.
I have only painted out the fee**, that neither coal nor tny other, ftrata what-
C*cr, can be traced to any considerable diftance, without (uch interruptions be-
ing met with. What actually happened in working the dip of Balbirny coal,
may happen in a hundred others, where the probability of the dip being both
good and extenfive, cannot poffibly be greater, than it was in that very coal,
till it was a&ually tried. One fact feems to be eftablilbed by it, that fome
coals do not extend to any very great depth from the furface. But after contU
nuing to dip for fome time, they rue the contrary way, an£ ctop cut to the
furface on a point of the compafs diametrically oppofite to the former crop-
Many could be pointed out which actually do fo, though the greater part of
feams may reach to fo great a depth, and may at that depth be fo altered by
dikes and flips, as to throw the oppofite crop, or rife to fuch a diftance, as often
prevents its ^eing perceived to be the fame foam, though it actually be fo.
This example, proves ooal to be limited in extent; in a different way. And
that it is by no means certain that coal can be had in the dip, though good in
the crop, and wrought there above 40 years.
i. The increafing confumption of coal, and jts limited extent, gives reafon to,
apprehend its being totally exhauftcd.
It feems to be the opinion of the publtck, that coal is intxhauftible. Govern-
ment appears to have adopted the fame opinion, in allowing fuch immenfe
quantities of coal to be exported to all the nations in Europe. It is greatly to,
be wifhed, that this opinion were well founded ; but it is contradicted by incon-
trovertible facts. It is not above ico years fince coal came into common ufe,
and it is highly probable the firft 1 50 years of that period did not cxhauft fo
much of it as the laft 50 years. Examine all the coal fields, not in Fife only,
but through all Britain, and it will be found that every part of them near to a
fea-port, and many of the inland feams of coal, are not only exhaufted to the
depth of the natural level, but a! mo ft ail of them already wrought, and exhauft.
ing faft by fire and water engines, many of which are very deep. It will alfo be
found, that the quantity already wrought is probably at lead equal to the quanti-
ties yet to work of all the known feams of coal within the ifland. It might, per*
baps, be aa object wot thy of b;ing investigated by Government ; foj if the if-
fue
54-8 Statical Account
is of a quadrangular form, and ftands upon an area of 134
feet bj 105, The open court within, is ic8 feet by 65. Thq
towcr^
foe of their refearch fliould be, as there is a high probability it would, that there
was not a diffident fund of coalunexhaufted in the Ulaad of Britain to fupply the
prefent demand for aoo years to come, it is probable they would think it proper
to interfere and prevent the too rapid comumption of an article indifpenfibly ne-
ceffary to the very exiftence, not only of the capital and other great cities, but to
ahnoft every fpecies of manufacture, and to the many thoufand artificers em-
ployed in them. Such could not even exift without a plentiful fupply of coal,
in a country fo deftitute of wood as Great Britain is. The fuperiority which
the pofieffion of coal gives to her manufactures, on the failure of that fupply,
would be inftantly transferred to thofe nations in Europe, pofleiTed of a fuifi-
cient quantity of wood for their cqnfumption.
Is is not difficult to account how Government, an4 the nation at large, are
Jailed into fecurity on this point. The proprietors of coal have an intereft in a
great and immediate confumption. No matter from whatsit arifes ; immediate
profit is the object, whether from the home or foreign market. The reft of
mankind have little opportunity, and (till lefs inclination to inveftigate a fub-
je6l of which the' greater part have a very fuperficial knowledge. It is net the
lefsneceflary that the alarm be given; the danger, upon candid inquiry, will net
be found ideal. Great dependence is fometimes placed upon the difcovery of
new feams of coal, never before known ; but if it be confidered, that there U
fcarcely a feam of coal of any confeqwience in Great Britain, which has not beea
known to exift for half a century, and that fcarce a new difcovery of coal has
been heard of during that period, to what is this to be imputed ? Not to the
want of trials, for of thefe numbers have been mad)* without fuccefs 5 Jmt as it
is an eftabliihed fact, that every feam of coal, as well as all other ftrata, rife and
crop out, at or very near the furface of the ground, there is a high probabili*
ty that few valuable feams of coal could remain fo long undifcovered. As in
every extenfive field, the chance is, that fome part of the crop will approach fo
near the furface, as to be laid open by rivers, canals, rivulets in little glens, tad
not feldom the rife or outburft of the coal, will be feen in the form of a black
duft, mixed with fmall particles of coal, in common ditches, where nothing it
meant but the enclofure of the ground. Such appearances mould, end, I fup*
pofe, generally are examined. By fuch means the greater number of coals al-
ready known, have been difcovered. And though others may exift not yet dis-
covered, there is tittle reafon to fuppofe the number or extent of fitch undifco-
vered feams to be very conGderable.
The extent of the coal fields in Britain is very inconfiderable, when compared
with
Of Marking. 549
t
tower *, which (lands on the N. fide, and near the N. Wf angle
i£ 45 feet by 36 over the walls, and 80 feet high. The top
witb the immenfe tracks that have no coal metals (or ftrata that ufually ac-
company coal), nor any appearance to indicate coal being contained in then.
But the coal fields them/elyes are very far from containing coal every where.
The county of Fife, for in&ance, is a coal field* and has been fold pat in a (ate.
publication, on the caufes of the fcarcity of coal, as containing an almoft inex-
haustible fund of that ufeful mineral, and as every where containing coal. No
aflertkm could be more llendojiy founded ; it is probably much nearer the truth,
that for every acre in Ftfe containing unwrovgbt coal, there is not lefc than 50)
that have no coal in them, nor any rational probability of any being found.
That there is (till much coal in Fife, is a certain fact ; but if ap other part of
Britain is better (tared with it, it is equally certain, that mere than one half of
the whole quantity in the kingdom is already exhaufted. Add to this, that the
remaining half rnuft be wrought with engines at a vaft expenfe j and it is not
absolutely certain whether* in quantity or quality, it may equal that part of th*
coals already exhaufted. To prove what is above alleged, would not, perhaps,
be very difficult. Take all the coals in Fife, wrought out, or now working,
one after another, examine conramption, and the quantity of ground wrought out
within the laft ten years, and compare this with the quantity of ground which
the proprietor fuppofes to contain coal as deep as. there is a poffibUity of .work,
ing, it would immediately be known, fuppofing the . consumption the fame,
what number of years the remaining coal would fupply the demand, at the fame
rate of confumption. Such an inquiry, I am afraid, would amount to a full proof
that another century will confume the whole.
* Connected with the tower is a houfe of 3 ftories, built by General Sir Alex-
ander Leflie, extending to the N. E. comer ; and on the E. fide of the court is
another houfe of the fame height, built by the prefent Earl of Leven's grandfa-
ther. From the vaults under thefe new buildings, and the thicknefc of the
walls in th- lower ftory, it appears probable that the old buildings had been
equally exteniive, and that the new honfes had been raised on the foundations
of the old. On the S. and W. fides of the court, there is a high ftrong wall,
which appears to be coeval with the tower : and without the wall there has
been a large foflfe, the remains of which are frill to be feen. The gate -way is
on the W. fide, befide which, and under the wall, there is a pit. There is alfo
a dungeon, or dark cell in the bottom of the tower. This cattle Hands in the
middle of an oblong fquaxe, inclufive of 300 acres, fenced by a ftone and lime
wall. Near it there is a garden of about 7 acres, enclofed by a wall of ia feet
^igb, and a great deal of fine old trees around. Balgonje, which anciently
belonged
£$<& Slati/lical Account
is furrounded with battlements, projecting about a foot be*
jond the Walls. The roof, which appears to have been re-
peatedly repaired fince it was firft built, is raifed in the mid-
dle, and between that and the battlements, it is flaf, and co~
yered jflrith ftones. The walls of the two lower ftories, both
of which are vaulted, are %\ feet thick : but above that, they
are only 7 feet thick. There is an apartment in it called the
Chapel, and, in the wall on the oppofite fide of the court, the
ruins of a room are ftill Jtq be feen, which was called the
Chaplain's Room. The architecture of this tower is ftill ve-
ry perfect and entire, and the third ftory hath been lately re-
paired by the prefent Lprd Balgonie. About half a mile to
E. of Balgonie, and on the fame fide of the Leyen, is Bal-
four or Balor, an old building, ftanding in the middle of
feme fine enclosures, and furrounded with a good deal of old
plantations. This place gave the name of Balfour to a very
ancient family, from which the Balfours in Fife, of whom
there is a confiderable number, it is thought, moftly fprung *.
On the weft fide, and about half a mile from the parifb
church, Hands Balbirnie, which anciently belonged to Bal-
birnie,
belonged to a family of the name of Sibbald, was purchased m the reign of
Charles I., by Qeneral Lellie, who was created Earl of Lcven by that monarchy
in 1641. Towards the end of the laft century, David, fecondfonof George
EarlofMelvill, married the Countefs and heirefsof Leven, iii confequence of
which, the eftates and titles of the two Earldoms came to be united in the fame
Jamily, *» Lord rVaitfc, the oldeft Ton of the (aid EajJ of Mejvill died without
* In the 5th of the reign of Robert II., John, laird of Balfour, dying without,
male iflue, Robert Bethune, alfo of an ancient family in Fife, married his daugh-
ter, the heirefs of Balfour, ftill, however, retaining the name of Bethune. From
this houfe, fcveral refpectabie families of the name of Bethune hare defcended.
James Bethune, archbifliop of St Andrew's, and Chancellor of Scotland, his ne*.
phew David Bethune, Cardinal and Chancellor of Scotland, and the Cardinal's
nephew, James Bethune, archbifliop of Glafgow, were all three of this houfe 0/
Balfour,
Of Mdrhhch. jj«
Mrnie of that ilk, but which, for (bene generations back*
hath been in the poffeffion of a family of the name of Bal-
four. A considerable part of the old houfe ftill remains^ and
is kept in good repair $ on the fouth fide of which, and con-
nected with itr the prefent proprietor hath built a neat com*
modious modern houfe. The fituation is rather low and con-
cealed \ but delightful! j romantick. In front, there is z
pretty extenfive lawn thinly and irregularly planted with dif-
ferent kinds of trees. The furrounding eminences, as wetf
as all the low msriby ground near it, are covered with fine
thriving plantations of barren wood* Befides the attention
paid to the pleafure ground around the houfe, the prefent
proprietor has of late greatly beautified, as well as meliorated
his eftate in the neighbourhood, by enclofing regular fields
with belts of plantation; and by placing ctymps of trees on
the higher grounds, arranged and difpofed in fuch a manner,
as at once to pleafe the eye, and to afford Shelter to the ad-
jacent fields.
The fteeple of Markinch is another ancient building, and
from the fimilarity of the workmanflup, is probably of the
fame age with Balgonie caftle. It is about 15 feet fquare,
and prefcrves its thicknefs till it rifes to 80 feet high. From
that to the top, it is about 24 feet, drawing to a point, in a
pyramidical form. From its elevated fituation, it is fcen at
a considerable diftance in feveral directions ; and forms the
termination of a beautiful view from the houfe of Leflie, the
feat of the Countefs of Rothes, which ftands about 3 miles
to the weftward of Markinch. Markinch hill is a beautiful
objed. It lies on the north fide of the village, and is of an
oblong oval form, and 200 yards in length. On the northern
declivity, there are 6 terraces of about ao feet broad, and
which extend the whole length of the hill, winding round
the caft end of it. They are evidently artificial 5 but nothing
certai*
§$i Statijlical Account
certain can be learned as to their anginal ufe anddefign*;
The pufelick road from Markinch to the north, paffes th*
Weft end of this hill, and; on a riling ground; on the oppofite
fide of the road, ftaods a broad ftone about 7 feet high, called
the Stobb Crofc. It is a very coarfe piece of *ork, without
any fcillpture or characters on it, that can lead to the know-
ledge of the defign of its erection -f.
On the eaftern extremity of the parifn, hi the farm of
Dnniface, mortified to the United College of St. Andrew**,
by a gentleman of the name of Ramfay, for the education of
4 bnrfars at that college, there it a hill of eminence not un-&
like the one juft now mentioned. Ori the north end of this
hill, there is a fpot of ground which rifes higher than the reft*
and is called the Maiden CaJlie, fenced on the fouth fide by
ditches* the veftiges of which remain to this day %.
Chara&er
* Two reports prevail ; the one is, that thefe terraces were originally ditches,
intended to ffcrengthen an encampment, or military poft on the top of the hill;
bnt that they have been levelled flnce for the purpofe of tillage. The other
report is, tint they were made to accommodate fpe&atots, affembled to bcholi
certain public games, performed in the plain below ; which plain it called the
Play-fields to this day.
f Vulgar tradition fays, that it was ere&ed to the memory of a gentleman;
who fell on this fpot, in a mortal rencounter with one of his neighbours. At this?
croft Hands upon the very edge of the roan1, and ft or io feet above its level, it
has been m danger of tumbling down, by the earth'* falling away from it. The
prefent Earl of Leven, therefore, caufad it to be fecured, by facing up the earth
with a wall of ftone and lime. ,
% Boethius calls it " An feptinalis totidem foffis munita, olim pofleflio Fifi
Duffi, cujus pofteritas, per molta fecula, earn tennere." Some pretend it was a
feat of M'Duff, Earl of Fife, and that there was anciently a fubterraneout paf-
fage from it to Brunton, which lies about a quarter of a mile to the £. pf Mark-
i^ch church, and where Malcolm, Earl of Fife, had a caftle. It is faid that the
entrance to this paflage at Brunton was fliut up fo lately as in the time of the
late John Simpfon of Brunton. Near the Maiden CalHe a battle hat been fought,
probably between the Scots and Danes, as a great many ftone-coffins, with hu-
man bones in them, have been lately difcovered in the immediate neighbour-
hood.
Of Markinch. 553
Character of the People.— It would be facrificing truth to
complaifance, to fay that there are no worthlefs or excep-
tionable characters in this parifh. The number of fuch, how-
ever, is comparatively fmalL The great body of the people
are fober, peaceable, and indubious. Their attendance on
the public ordinances of religion is punctual and exemplary,
and their moral conduct correfpondcnt to their profeffion. It
is worthy of notice, that the colliers of Markinch poflefs a re-
fpe&ability in point of character, to yrhich few other colliers
in the kingdom can pretend. In thern you fee nothing of
that grofs ignorance, that roughnefs and barbarity of manners,
that extravagance and diforderly behaviour, but too generally
chara&eriftical of this description of men. On the contrary,
with a very few exceptions, they are remarkably intelligent,
attentive to the duties of religion, civil and obliging in their
manners, fober, frugal and diligent; in confequence of which,
they and their families live comfortably, and make a decent
appearance. It deferves alfo to be mentioned, to the honour
of this parifl), that during the late ferment, when defigning,
factious, and turbulent men were endeavouring to difturb the
public tranquillity, and to alienate the affections of the people
from the mild and equal government under which they live,
their loyalty to their King, and attachment to the Conftitution
remained uncorrupted. They joined no difcontented aflbci-
ations ; they imbibed no feditious principles ; but every man
attended to the duties of his ftation, and left the modelling
and mending of conftitutions to others, as a bufinefs beyond
their fphere, and above their abilities.
Vol. XII. 4 A Statistical
hood. In feveral other parts of the parifh, coffins of the fame kind have, at dif-
ferent times, been difcovered. One, in particular, was found about 7 rears ago
on the Headlaw, between Markinch and Balgonic. It was of a fquare form,
made of four unhewn dabs of freeftone, fet edge-wajs, and covered with a broad
(tone of thi fame kind, upon which was laid a large unformed mats of Hone, and
above all, aheap or cairn of fmail ftones. The bones cnclofed in it were calcined.
554
Statifthal Account
Statistical Table of the Parish of Mauuncu.
Number of fouls, - 2790
— males, - • 1364
— females, - - 1426
— families, - - 653
•— - married couples, 475
— widowers, - - 36
— widows, 65
— average of marriages
annually, - - , ao
— of births *, - - 63
— under 2 jearsof age, aeo
— between 2 and 10, £38
— . 10 and 20, 524
— ___ 20 and 30,
— ■■ 30 and 40,
— ■ 40 and 50,
•*. » ■ ■ 50 and Co,
r^ 1 60 and 70,
_ ,,, 70 and 80,
— ■ — 8p and 90,
— heritors,
— refidinglieritors,
— feuars,
— farmers,
— teachers,
— notary publicks,
— plafterer,
— weavers, -
— pafons,
Number qf weights, - i<$
— fmiths, r - *?
— fljoemakers, - - 20
— tailors, 9
— brewers, 4
— gardepers, - N - 5
— - midwives, 2
— colliers, including o-
verfeers, drawers,
&c. - - xoo
— coopers, 2
— bakers, 3
— wheelwrights, • - a
469 — flaxdreffers, 8
393 — ftocking-m&kers, - %
272 -— dyers, %
176 — turner, 1
147 — ihopkeepers, - 4
58 — . male fervants, - 136^
13 — female fervants, 120
21 — labourers, 65
11 — - horfes above 1 year
120 old, - - 383
60 — black cattle above I
7 year old, - - 1540
a — iheep, - . 300,
1 Valuedrent,87il.7s.id.
160 Sterling.
24 Ileal rent of land belong.
ing
* There is no regifter of byrials.
Of Markinch.
55J
ingto the heritors,
5000I.
Number of corn-
-mills,
xo
Sterling.
— lint-mills,
-
7
Rents of feuars property, 480I.
— barley-mills,
-
4
Sterling.
— wauk-mills,
-
a
Number of inns,
%
— flour-mill,
-
1
— poft-chaifes,
- 5
— oil-mill,
-
z
*— carts, - -
- 100
— collieries,
-
%
— ale-houfes,
- ii
— coal engines,
.
4
** bleachfieldy J
1
4 A »
NUM.
$ $6 Slatiftlcal Account
Dumber xxxvn.
UNITED PARISHES* or LYNE and MEGGET.
(CotJNTT and Presbytery of Peebles! StNoD ot Lothian
AND TWEEDDALE.)
By the Rev. Mr. Andrew Handyside.
Extent, Name, Soil, Culture, &C. of Lyne.
THE parifli of Lyne is between 3 and 4 miles long, and
near 3 broad. The origin of the name is uncertain*
prehaps from the Gaelic word Linn, " a pool or water." The
river, which rnns from one extremity of the parifli to the o-
therf
* It appears from the Scots Alb of Parliament, (vol. i. p. 960.) tfcat the pa-
rifli of Rodonno, or Megget, was annexed to that of Lyne, about the year tfci ;
and that this took place in confequence of a joint petition from the proprietor
and inhabitants of the former parifli, to the Lords Commiflioners for Plantation
of Kirks, defiring that they might henceforth be uiiidercd as a part of the lat-
ter. It is lingular that Megget fhould not hare been united to one of the neigh-
bowing
Of Lyric and Megipt. 5J7
»
ther, is fo called, and being one of the largeft that falls into
Tweed in this county, might obtain the name of linn, or the
Water, by way of eminence j and the name might afterward
be transferred to the parifli* The lower part of the parifli is,
in general, of a fharp gravelly foil, requiring frequent (bowers
in fummer. The upper part is hilly, and affords good pafture
for fheep, confiding of a proper mixture of heath and grafs.
In the year 1782, the crop in this parifli did not ftrffer fo
much from the froft, as in feveral of the neighbouring ones.
The (harp nature of the foil, and the fouthern ezpofure of the
corn-lands, may accouot for this. The whole parifli is, at
prefent, divided into two farms ; but about 60 years ago, it
was pofleffed by no fewer than 7 fmall tenants. The quanti-
ty of grain raifed in it is not great, as the number of acres
under tillage does not, at an average, exceed 160, The rota-
tion of crops obferved, is the old one of bear with dung, then
oats, then peafe. Potatoes are alfo raifed for family ufe. No
graft has hitherto been fown, nor turnips cultivated by the
farmers. This is to be afcribed chiefly to the want of enclo-
fures, without which, thefe crops cannot be eaiily protected
from the fheep and cattle, during the winter and fpring.
Extent, Surface, &c. of Megget. — The parifli of Megget is
ficuated in the fouthern extremity of the county* It is be-
tween 6 and 7 miles in length, and near 6 in breadth* The
furface is very hilly. The tops of the hills are, in general,
covered with heath, and coarfe grafs, but the lower parts pro-
duce excellent pafture both for fhecp and cattle. The climate
is nor, upon the whole, unhealthy, though from the high fi-
tuation of the country, it is damp and cold. On this account
the
bowing parishes, rather than to Lytic, which is fo diftant from it. Perhaps the
fmallncfs both of the ftipends and cures might be the chief reafon ; befides, both
parishes at that period belonged wholly to one proprietor, Lord Hay of Ycfter,
and it is more than probable that he had confiderable influence in procuring the
annexation.
5ji Statijlical Auouni
the inhabitants are more fubjed to rheumatifms, than to any
other complaint. The water of Megget rifes at the head o^
the parifli, and, after running the whole length of it, falls in*
to St. Mary's Loch, a beautiful expanfe of frefh water. This
lech, with the loih of the Lows, from which it is (eparated
by a narrow neck of land, may be near 5 miles long* and, in
fome places* a 4 broacl. Trout, pike, and eel, are found in
both j they are frequented by water-fowl of different kinds,
particularly by wild-ducks. The quantity of grain raifed in
Megget is very inconfiderable, and infbfficient, even in the
beft feafons, to maintain its inhabitants. But the quantity
that Lyne can annually fpare, would, upon an average, fully
anfwer all the demands of Megget.
Population, &c. — According to IJr. Webfter*s report, the
number of fouls in Lyne and A^egget in 17 J5t was 265. The
population of Lyne parifli in the 279a, was 72.'
Under tie age of fo, 16 Females, - - - - 38*
From to to ao, - 25 Number of horfes, * 28
From 20 to 50, - - 22 ■ ■ black cattle, 6{r
From 50 to 70, - - 5 - ploughs, - 4
From 70 to 100, 4 - carts, • , - 9
Males, ----- 34
The population of Megget in 17929 was 80.
Under xo years, - - 10 Number of inhabited hou-
From 20 to 20, - -16 fcs, -.---- 1%
From 20 to 50, - 42 — — of acres under tillage, 40
From 50 to 70, • * 20 of horfes, - - - 25
From 70 to ioo, - - a of black cattle, • 54
Males, ----- 37 —of ploughs, - 3:
Females, - - - - 43
Th*
6
Of Lyme and Mcggtt, 559
The number of fliccp in both parifhes i$ between 1 0,009
.and 11,000.
As during the fummer there are 12 or 13 Servants more
in Megget, and 3 or 4 more in Lyne parifli, moftly females,
employed in milking ewes, making hay, &c the population
of both parifhes will amount, at a medium, to about 160 +.
There are no artificers nor mechanic^* in either partth, ex-
cept x carpenter at Lyne, who has commonly a or 3 appren-
tices. The relt pf the inhabitants are wholly compofed of
formers, fhepherds, and labourers, with their families. Their
mode of living apd drefs is much improved of late, and they
enjoy, in moderation, the comforts and conveniences of life.
They are far from being illiberal in their religious fehtiments,
and are truly exemplary for decency and hofpitality . . All the
pariihioners join in communion with the Eftablifhcd Church,
except 4 or 1 Gameronians, and fometimes a or 3 Seceders.
Church, Stipend^ Heritors % &£.— rThe church is aa old edi-
fice, and appears to have been originally a l^oman Catholic
chapel. It was, till lately, in a date almoft ruinous, but 19
gow undergoing a thorough repair. It will afterward be a
commodious place fqr divine fervice, In Megget, their is nei?
ther church nor chapel of any kind. Public worihip is there-
fore performed in the different farm-faoufes by rotation, which
is far from being either deceit or convenient. The yalue of
the flipend, including the glebe, is about 83 L, befides the
rnanfe. His Grace of Queenfberry is patron. Hp is alfo
proprietor of both parifhes, except the farm of Henderland,
j*nd a fmall lieritage, called Lyn-townhead. Lord Hender*
land,
• No parochial regifter, either of births, marriages, or deaths, is to be found ;
but it is highly probable that the population of both pariflws has decreased con-
.'"'dcr.ibljr. (taring the laft 40 years.
j6o Statiftical Account
land* one of the fenators of the College of Juftice, is pro-
prietor of the former, and takes his title from that farm. It
is not eaiy to afcertain the real rent of the parifh, as fines or
graffums are taken at the beginning of leafes, inftead of ad-
vanced rent.
Inflame of Longevity, &.c— The only remarkable inftance
of longevity that can be remembered, is that of the late mini-
fies the Rev. Mr. Johofton. Though his age cannot be ful-
ly authenticated, as the regifter of the partih where he was
born is loft, jet there is good reafop to believe, that he died
at the advanced age of about 10a. In his drefs and diet be
was very homely and firople. Regarding the manners and
cuftoms to which he bad been fo long habituated, a& a model
for fucceeding ages, in the decline of life he confidered every
deviation from them as a corruption. He had a ftrong anti*.
pathy to medicine of every kind, and it is doubtful if ever he
made ufe of any in his life, except once. He enjoyed a (late
of health almoft uninterrupted, officiated in public the Sab-
bath before his death, and was getting out of bed, in order to
prepare for the duties of the next Sabbath, when he expired
faddenly, in a fainting fir, without a groan.
Poor.— There are no poor in this . parifb, nor have there
been any upon the poor's roll for many years paft. This is
owing not only to the frugality and induftry of the inhabi-
tants, but alfo to their fenfe of honour, and independent fpirk.
In eftabliflring poor's rates, the defign is certainly laudable,, but
experience teaches us that they are attended with many bad
confequences. Wherever men can depend on fuitable provifiog
being made for them, when reduced to indigence, they are di-
verted of the proper ft imulus to exertion ; they foon lofe the fenfe
of fhame, and are tempted to fqqander away in diffipation,
what
f
CfLynt and Meggct. 561
what would otherwife have been laid up for the evil day*
Some of the neighbouring pariihes are ftriking instances of the
truth of this obfervation. In our fitter kingdom, the evil is
ftill growing werfe and worfo, If not fpeedily corre&ed, the
burden of poor's rates will, in a ihorj time, become altogether
grievous and oppreffive.
Sheep. — Both in Meggct and Lyne, the iheep are all of the
black-faced, common Scotch kind, and they are not inferior
in quality to any of that kind in this part of Scotland. Af-
ter repeated experiments, the farmers in this diftrid, ?re con-
vinced that their own breed is more hardy, of a better ibape,
and more eafily fed than any other breed with which they are
acquainted. Betides, they maintain, that there if $ greater
demand f rpm England for Scotch iheep, than for thole of any
pther kind. Foi thefe reafons, they apprehend that it wopljl
be yery dangerous for them,4 who£s dependcpce is Wely upon
their iheep, to attempt any innovation, in this refpeft, pnkft
it were done on a yery fmall (bale. Upon the banks of Yar-
row water, a croft breed, with finer wool, has bees gaining
ground Cor fome time paft, but they are foupd not to thrive
fo well when carried to the higher grounds in Tweeddale, It
is true, that an attempt has been lately made, with coafider-
abie fuccefs, to change the breed upon a farm near the head
pf Moffat water ; but it ought to he confidered, that though
fome of the land in that farm be among the higheft in the St
of Scotland, yet a confiderable part of it is not only low,
Jrnt flickered in focb a manner, that when the farms in Meg*
get are comjdetely formed with ihow, the iheep on that farjp
are at no lofs for pafture. It is admitted, that the wool of
the black-faced iheep, is, in general, very coarfe, but per-
haps confiderable improvement might be auide on it, by pay-
ing more attention than is uiually done, to the fleece of the
Vol. XII. 4 B ram*
5 6* Statiftical Account
fams and ewes, which are kept as a breeding flock. Aftec
all, if it can be afcertained, from experiment and undoubted
fa&s, that any change whatever, either in the kind or ma-
nagement of fiieep, will, upon the whole, be more adtan.
tageons to the farmers, than the mode at prefent adopted, it
is not to be doubted, that the fagacity of that clafs of men,
in this county, will foon induce them to purfue that plan*
* , - • .............. ? ••»
Caujis of Depopulation.— Tht caufes commonly affigned
for the decreafe of population in this diftrift, are the demo-
lishing of cottages, and the janftion of fheep-farms. With
refpe& to the firft, farmers are now generally convinced of
the neceffity of encouraging cottagers, by building houfes for
them, though the reverie was too much the pra&ice a few
years ago. Cottagers, by living at a diftance from towns, are
commonly ftrangers to diffipatibn and vice, their children arfe
often numerous and healthy, and almoft always make the be$
country fervants. But, with regard to the fecond caufe, men
of obfervation are not fo unanimous. For it has been warm**
ly difputed, whether eztenfive farms be, upon the whole, fa-
vourable or unfavourable to the population and profperity of
a eoqntry* Before we can determine this point, it is necef,
fery that we attend to the fituation and circumftances of the
eountry where the farms lie. In the vicinity of a large town,
where plenty of manure can be procured, or, in a rich foil,
where, by means of lime and marl, cultivation may be car-
fied to a high pitch, farms of a moderate extent are certain-
ly proper, becaufe the culture of them requires many hahds,
and much attention. But in proportion as farms are more
diftant from the means of improvement, and the foil of them
led rich, in the fame proportion, it would appear, may they
increafe in fize, becaufe tfie quantity of land under tillage be*
ing neceffarily (mall, lefs attention and induftry are requisite.
Of Lync and Megget. 56 J
If this reafooiog be well founded , it is evident that fmall
farms may fome times be United, and larger farms, in fome
cafes, divided to advantage. Bat it may be faid, does not
the jun&ion of fmall farms tend* in every inftance, to dimi-
nish the population of a country, and is not the publick a
fufferer by it? We muft admit, that where the induftry of
the fmall firmer and his family cannot be turned into another
channel equally beneficial to themfelves* and the community;
ihis will be the cafe. On the other hand, at a period when
the demand for manufacturers is great, and their wages high,
it may be advantageous both to the individuals and the publick;
that fome of the fmall farmers become manufacturers. The
cafe of this ufeful elafs of men, is indeed much to be pitied,
when the^ are turned out of their fmall poffeflions, whercv
there is no demand for their labour in any^ other line ; they
rauft then either emigrate or iiarve, and the country will, in
a (tort time, feverely feel the lofs. It appears, then, that the
date of trade and manufactures muft have confiderable influ*
ence in regulating the fixe of farms ; fo that what would bo
found policy in this refped, at one period, would be the re-
verfe at ahother. If it be faid, that after all, the intereft of
the proprietor will naturally induce him to prefer the higheft
offer for his lands ; and that as the extenfive farmer can af-
ford to give more rent than fmall tenants, the former will ob^
tain the preference, and farms will continually irifreafe in
fizc ; in anfwer to this, it may be observed, that neither the
proprietor nor the farmer, even in a iheep country, will find
it his advantage that the farm be more extenfiVe thaA what
one perfon can properly manage. The proper Check, then,
when farms become overgrown, appears to be at hand \ and
the wifdom of providence is equally confpicuous in this, as*
£n many other inftances, which often efcape our obfem*
rion.
4 B af % ; ©*
5^4 Statiftkat Accburtt
On the whole, it will perhaps be found to be the founder!
policy, that no reftraint whatever be impofed either upon
farming, commerce, or manufactures* When left to themfelves,
they will have a ftrong mutual influence on each other, and
though one of them may appear to gain too great an afcend-
ancy at a time, yet it will foon be checked by the1 others, and
defcend to its own proper level. When Government is fa
wife as not to interfere in thefe matters, it will find its advan-
tage in the increasing profperity of the whole ftate*
Antiquities. — About -*• of a mile W; of Lyne church, there'
is a famous Roman camp of about 6 acres in extent. The
Situation of it appears to have been chofen with great judg-
ment. The road leading to it is Hill vifible, and runs through
the prtfent glebe. The ground within the encampment has
been frequently ploughed, and it is faid^ that Roman coins,
&c. were frequently found in it* But as this camp has been
often defcribed, it is judged tfnneceffary to infift more on it.
In Megget there are the remains of 1 old towers, which ap-
pear to have been built, partly for defence, partly for accom-
modating the Kings of Scotland when oa their hunting par-
ties in the foreft. The traces of 5 or 4 roads in different di-
rections acrofs the hills are dill vifible, at what period, or
trith what defign they were formed, is uncertain. Perhaps
When the country was covered With wood, they were cut out
for the Ring and his fuite when they went a-huftting. • At
Henderland, there are the remains of an old chapel and bury*
ing-ground. The inscription on the tomb-ftohe of the famous
freebooter, Cockburn of Henderland, is ftitt legible. Boetius,
Buchanan, and other hiftoristns, inform us, that gold was for-
merly found in Glengaber water, and fome (mall traces ftill
remain of the ground which had been dug in fearch of that
precious metaL
Mifcdlaneous
Of Lytic and Mtggit. $6$
' Mifcetlaneous Obfir+atidns — Though a great part of the
land in Lyne and Megget has been formerly covered with
wood, yet, at prefent, there are only a few trees around the
Church and fotne of the farm-houfes. The old trees natural-
ly decay through time, and the growth of young ones is ef-
fe&ually prevented by the iheep and cattle. In Megget, there
is plenty* of moorfowl in good feafons. The earn, a fpecies
of eagle that builds its neft in a fmall ifland in LocMkene*
fometimes carries otf a young lamb, even in view of the fliep-
herd. Refides the neceflary attention which the Socks ef (beep
require, the inhabitants of Megget are moftly employed dur-
ing the fummer and autumn' in making and carrying homer
their peats, in cutting and leading in their hay, and in laying
up provifion for the winter.
Advantages and Dif advantages. -^Pit Lyne, the diftanc*
from coals and lime is not great, the roads are good, and thertf
are a convenient bridges over the Water. Thirlage is a griev-
ance juftly complained of. The want of a falary for a fchool-
mafter, is hard on the lower clafs of people. Megget labours
under particular difadvantages. There is no fchooi of any*
kind nearer to it, than that of Yarrow, which is 8 or 9 miles
diftant* This want is Severely felt, efpecially by fervants
who have large families, who riiuft either fend their children
to a great diftance for education, or be at the ezpcnfe of
teaching them at home. Yet, much to their credit, they at*
not inferior in religious knowledge to any of their neigh-
bours. This muft be afcribed chiefly to the diligence and at*
tention of thtir parents* who are at confiderable pains to in-
ftill into the tender minds of their offspring, the principles of
jriety and virtue. There was indeed the fum of 50 1. Ster-
ling mortified by a former minifter of Lyne, and the intereft
of it was intended as a falary for a teacher ; but, though that
fum
$66 Statiftical Account .
film be scow tacreafed to 80 1. Sterling, yet the intereft of ft?
is far from being fufficieot to fapport an eftablilhed fcfcool-
ttafter. Among the difadvantages peculiar to Meggett its
great diftance from Lyne church, which is about 14 miles,
ought not to be omitted. The river Tweed runs between
th*mt abd the road h remarkably bad and fteep.
Means ef MtRtratiotL—A.* Megget is fometimes almoft
inacceffible during % or 3 months in winter, on account of
die fteep hills and rough toads, nothing would tend more to
promote die Comfort and convenience of its inhabitants, thai*
apaflable road up Manor water* If it Were carried up the
Harrow glen oppofite to Manor-bead, which is practicable,
and Afterward cfown GlcngaW water, great part of the pre-
fent fteep pull would be faired, and the traveller would' de^
rive effential benefit from it. It is true, that the expenfe
would be confiderable, but the fum which was lately expend-'
ed in obtaining an aft of parliament for making roads in the
county, would have been fufficient for making that road.'
It is certainly very hard, efpecially on poor counties, when
they a^e obliged to fpend about 400 1. Sterling, in order to
obtain leave to lay out their own money in the way they
think bed. The writer of this has no objeft in view, bur>
die good of his country' ; and it will be admitted, that few
things are more conducive to its improvement, than good
roads upon a liberal plan, and ih a proper direction. As this
is a national concern, and not confined to any particular dif-
tri&t it is to be hoped, that at feme future period it may meet
with all the attention it defences.
That confiderable improvement has been' lately made on
the roads, cannot be denied ; but it tf ill alfo be admitted,
that they are far from having attained that perfection, either
is the dire&ion or execution of them, to which they may be
carried.*
Of Lytic and Megget. f6y
carried* It is certainly the intereft of every member of £h?
community, that the communication from one place to an-
other be renderejd as eafy as poffible ; but gentlemen of land-
ed property appear to be more concerned in this than others ;
for, if their tenants are obliged, on account of the fteepuelf
and roughnefs of the road, to employ 4 carts in carrying
what would otberwife have been an eafy load for J, it is
evident that the expenfe*muft ultimately fell upon the pro-
prietor. Though the management of the money anting from
turnpikes is, with great propriety, committed to the trustees
of the different p ounties, yet it may be doubted if the plan-
ning and original direction of the roads be fafeft in the fame
hands. Wherever men are interefted, there they are not
/competent judges ; this is perhaps the reafon, that, in making
pads, the pytyick intereft is fomctipes jpcrifced to the pre-
tended intereft of individuals. Were the gentlemen of th*
different counties to agree, that the planning of the rood; in
their own county (hould be left to a deputation of gentlemen
from a neighbouring one, the objeftion would, in a great
meafure, be obviated ; for, in that cafe, private or political
intereft would have fmaH influence. With regard to the great
roads through the kingdom, woulf} it not be of adyanjage to
the nation, were commiffionep appointed by parliament, un-
der proper reftri&ions, to fuperintend this branch of publick
police ; and if 9 or 3 engineers were added to the eommif-
{ion, we might reafonably expeft, that beauty and utility
would foon be united, and their joint labours tend, in a cop*
fidcrable degree^ to promote t]xe publick good*
NUM.
g6B . Statiftical Account
NUMBER XXXVIIL
PARISH or CAMBUSNETHAN^
(County of Law ark, Synod of Glasgow and A?*t
Presbytery of Hamilton.)
By the Rev. Mr. John Lockbart.
Name, Situation, Extent, Riven, &c;
CAM-UISE, ia the Gaelic language, fignifies li curve,
or bend of water." The old church of this parifli
was fituated near a fine bending of the river Clyde, and feem^
to have been dedicated to St. Nethan, whom Archbifhop Uiher*
in his Britt. Ecc. Ant. calls " Religiofiffimus et do&iffimus
Nethan.9' This faint is fuppofed to be the St. Ne&anus, men*
tioned in D. Chambers's catalogue. This parifli is fituated
in the middle ward of Lanarkfhire? and commiflariot of Ha-
milton and Campfic. The length of the parifli, in a N. £•
direftipn from Clyde to the confines of Whitburn, is nearly
1 2, and its average breadth about a£ EnglHh miles. It is
14 miles
Of Gambufnttban. $$g
14 miles diftant from Glajgow, 9 from Lanark, and 4 froai
Hamilton, which is the market and pgfUtown. The Clyde
affords falmon, pike, trout, and parrs* The Calder is little
pore than a rivulet, and is remarkable for the beauty of its
banks. There is another fmall ft ream, which runs ifivofy the
higher part of the pariih, called the A*chtcr«
Surface and Soil.— Tht hangbs on the Clyde are extenfive
and beautiful. A confiderable part of them forms * lawn io
front of the manfion-houfe of (iambufnethan j the other part
is regularly enflofed, and well cultivated. On the bank,
which riles over the haugh-grounds, there are exten^ve or-
chards i behiod {heft, coppice- woods, or regular plantations,
afford a complete flicltffl from the eafterly winds. From the
river to the fummitof the bank, the average diftance is about
£ of an Englifh mile : from this fummit, the pariih has, upon
the whole, a gentle rife to its fartheft pointy which muft be
of confiderable elevation. The foil is generally clay, with a
till bottom ; but as the day is, in feme places, much ftronger
than in others, or the foil much deeper, there are very differ*
ent degrees of fertility. In the middle, and higher part of
the pariih, the foil is mofiy, or mixed with a black fand, pe-
culiarly unfavourable to vegetation. The foil of the lowe$
4iftri& produces very good graip, and is capable of great la*
provemeDt.
Agriculture. — Oata are the chief objeA of attention. Many
content themfelves with railing two or three crops of this
kind, and then lay their fields in grafs. In the cafe of fum-
mer fallowing (a pra&ice which has not, till of late, been
introduced into this pariih), the ploughing is performed
with two borfes: however, except in this cafe, the old
Scotch plough, which cannot be drawn by lefs than three
Yol. XI*. 4 C horfc*
$ 70 Stati/iical Accouit$
horfes, is almoft univerfally employed. The farmers, wh<^
pcrfift in the ufe of this inftrument, feem difpofed to think,
that where the ridges are properly levelled, the two hoife-
plough is, in all refpe£ts, preferable. It is found mod expe-
dient to have the ridges gently rounded, and of a moderate
breadth *. The farmers fn the lower part of the pariih fre-
quently adopt the following rotation of crops, and mode of
culture: i ft year, oats, flinie on the fward ; ad, peafe, or
beans ; 3d, oats ; 4th, fummer fallow and wheat ; dung laid
on the land in fallow ; 5th, peafe, or beans ; 6th, oats or bar-
ley, laid down with grafs-feeds. The ground then lies in grafs
for 5 or 6 years, 'fhe following rotation and mode of cul-
ture have been lately introduced by an Englifh improver : lit
year, oats ; 2d, fallow and wheat. The dung arid lime are
wholly applied to this crop : the lime is put on hot in pow-
der \ after which there are two ploughings, then the dung is
put on ; the dung is ploughed down, the lime up ; 3d, peafe,
or beans ; 4th, barley and grafs-feeds.
Rents. — Good land rents from 20 s. to 30 s. the acre. The
valued rent of the whole pariih is 5400 1. ios. Scotch. The
real rent is moderately calculated at 3300 1. Sterling, ex-
'' % clufive
• The fcarcity in the year 17S2, led Mr. Rankin of Glafgow, who was mi-
ni ft er of the pariih at that time, to calculate the annual produce of grain on aa
' average, whetf it appeared that there was a produce of 11,520 bolls, of which!
it was fuppofed 2080 might be for exportation. As the farmers, in this pahih,
many of them againft their intereft, depend on the plough for payment of their
rent, they muit have fufferea' confiderably on that occafion. The ufual furplus
above mentioned, and 1760 bolls flour and w'hite peafe Imported, mow a total
deficiency in crop 1782, of 3S40 bbils. ' "I*he white peafe, from England, gave
great relief to the poor, as they were fold at 1 s. a peck, which is the average
price of oat-meal.
f The lime is brought from a fpot in the pariih of Carluke 7 or 8 mile;
aiffuit. •' - - • •■••■•.•.. * ■«•
Of GambufntthaiC $7 \
f lufive of the rent paid for coal and iron-flone, which is only
J43 1. The rate of feus the rood is, in general, io s. a-year.
Fences and Orchards. — Thorn-hedges are generally pre-
ferred, bat as the nature of the foil expofes them to the dan-
ger of becoming fogged; it has been found neceflary to have
the mound, in which the thorns are jnferted, highly raifed and
enriched with dung. The ftrongeft clay is. preferred for or»
chard ground. On an average, the annual value of the fruit
raifed on an acre of land, is fuppofed to amount to 10 1. Ster-
ling. When we reckon, along with this fum, thje value of
the undergrowth, which is little (hort of what the land would
yield, if cultivated in the ordinary way, Hill more, when we
confider that fruit* trees thrive belt on thofe inacceffible fpots
which could not be employed advantageoufiy in railing any-
other ptoduce, we {hall be fenfible of the great profit to be de-
rived from this way of employing land, where the foil and
climate are favourable A profitable orchard has a large pro-
portion of pear-trees.
Minerals, &c— There h abundance of excellent coaf, ca-
pable of being wrought with great eafe : It is, therefore, er*
tremely probable, that the propofed canal -between Edin-
burgh and Glafgow, will have its courfe through this parifh.
The price of 8 cwt. of coal, is is. 6d. The colliers have,'
in general, half the coal put out, as wages. Many, of the
colliers employed here, betook themfelves to their difagree-
able labour at an advanced period of life ; but' they abundant-
ly compen&te for their want of regular training, by their fo-
briety and diligence. In this, as well as in all the neigh-
bouring pariihes, there are great quantities of iron-done.
There is likewife abundance of free-ftone. As the materials'
for making roads are very bad, it requires conftant attention,
and great expenfe to kttp .the. roads in proper repair.
4Ca Population/
$7*
Siatiftkat Ate writ
Population.— Since die Return was made to Dr. Wet>fter*9
in the year 17551 the population of this parifi* has greatly
increafed, .as will appear from the following population table
of the pari& of Cambttlhethan*
Pwolatioh Tails, fee
Number of fouls m Vfil,
•
*5°"*
Total Intreafc.
fittto in 1755*
-
14x9
Xncreafe in 46* ywtfs;
y
u
H3
*4J
Population in 1791,
-
*
1684
Incwafe in To years,
-
-
tar
n*
Total increafe in 36" years,
-
-
**S
Number of inhabitants in villages,
4°*
Members
of the Eftablimed
s*tf
Church; - <• roye
]>ifbiters,cmie&y Burgber-Se-
■ * -' ■■- unmarried above 40
years of age,
-
47'
ccders,
6*14
■ ■•>■ between 10 and
*«•
aafr
* under io*
-
45»
r* ■ males, - 77*7
females, - 91a >
1684
* Burials regiftered lor 10 years, eaw
Baptiims registered for 10 years*
clufive of children and poor j****
pic. '
178*
«*
ft
178*
**
t%
1783 - -
3°
28
T7S4 - -
3«
s»
*7'«S
3*
30
•1796 - -
3*
it*
i7«7 - -
aS
•a
1788
34
33
1789 - -
34
ip
1790 - -
at
r,y> ,
Total,
3"
2x4
Animal average,
511
.10*
ai4-iotfts
• Epidemical difeafes, except thofe peculiar to chtfdiwu, axefcarcely known
•here. There are feveral parfonf in the parim, whofe «ge weeds poyoattt
Upon the whole, the climate if tgtredftly favourable to health,
Of Camhufnttban. $fj
Ptfogts.—Tht late increafe of inhabitants is partly owing
to the proximity of the Omoa iron- works, in the pariih of
Shotts, but chiefly to the convenient fituatton of a Tillage «*
the lands of Wifliaw and Coltneis. This village had no <
iftence 20 years ago* In confequence of its ereftioa,
ire few cottages attached to particular fimns9 mod another
village, k& conveniently fituated, which was formerly «£
coufideraUe extent* is faft going into decay. Of the tradef >
men, who inhabit the village, and indeed the partm at large,
there are few employed by manufaå compaiiiea ; and
therefore it feems uaneceffary to give a pat tkalar lift of df£*
xerent protemons*
Roads* — The great road from Glafgow to Lanark,
through the pariih. It will be little frequented, when the
-new road on the S. fide of the Clyde is finimed. The &*•
tute-labour has been chiefly devoted to the lower port of the
pariih.
Ecckfiqftical State.—lt appears that this pariih was for-
merly attached to the abbacy of KeHb. When the Reforsnaw
tiontook place, the teinds were granted to the family of
Roxburgh. The Duke of Hamilton is now titular. Mr*
Lockhart of Caftlehill, proprietor of the eftate of CambuC*
nethan, is patron. The value of the living, exclufive of
manfe and glebe, amounts to nearly 1 30 1. Sterling. The
ftipend is chiefly paid in oat-meal.
School and Poor. — The fehoolmafier's (alary is 200 merks.
He has a free houfe, but no garden. The average number
of fcholars is about 60. The fchool-wages a-quarter, are, for
reading englifli, is. 6d.f reading and writing, is. $d.f arith-
metic and latia, as* 6d« each,— la order to avoid the imp*.
fitioa
574 Stdtifiicai Account
fition of a legal ftent for maintaining the poor, the non*.re-i
fiding heritors, and the members of the Burgher congrega-
tion voluntarily contribute ail. 5 s. Steeling, annually, which,
with the intereft of 83 1. flock, the weekly colle&ions, and the
mortcloth money, ufually makes up the fum of 66 L Sterling.
This {urn is found fufficient, for the maintenance of the poor,
when the prices of proviiions are moderate: On extraordinary
occafions, the charity of individuals, of every rank, is liberal.
The kirk-feffiou takes the entire management, of the poor's
money, but they fubmit an exaft ftatement of their expendi-
ture, every half year, to the heritors : Upon thefe occafions,
the poor's-roll is made up, and when it is neceffary, the mem-
bers of the Burgher feffion, report the ftate of the paupers
Attached to their congregation.
Libraries* — The inhabitants of this parifh, have given a
good fpecimen of their chara&er and tafte, in the inftitution of
two libraries, fupported by an annual fubfeription, and con-
taining a judicious feledion of books, entertaining, hiilorical,
moral, and religions.
For the prices of labour and proviiions, with other articles
of the fame kind ; reference is made to the ftatiftical account,
of contiguous paxUfcs,
NUM.
QfAberdonr* $7$
NUMBER XXXIX.
PARISH or ABERDOUR.
(County and Stnod of Aberdeen, Presbytert 07 Deer.)
By the. R*v. Mr. Andrew Youngsoh.
Name, Extent, Surface, Sot/, &c.
THE parifh takes its name from a rivulet, or burn, which
difcharges itfelf into the fea, about 200 paces below
the church. The form of the parilh is irregular, its extent
from E. to W. along the fea-coaft, or Murray Frith, is 6\
miles, the church being nearly in the middle, and clofe to the
fea ; from the N. E. to the S. W., it extends about 9 miles
habitable, befides a large extent of mofs and moor ground.
Its breadth from the church on the N. coaft fouthward, is 6f
miles ; but between the S. E. corner of the parilh, and the
reft of the parifli of Aberdour, part of the parifh of Tyrie,
for about a mile of breadth, intervenes, and cuts off 3 farm
Jowns, extending, where broadeft, about a mile and a half,
and
57* Statifticol Account
end much about the fame length ; and where there are ga. is*
habitants. This detached part of the pariih is believed to have
been formerly grazing places for the tenants on the fea.coaft
of the lands of Aberdour, of which barony it is ftill a part.
The face of the country is very uneven, and the foil of very
different qualities : the foil of the corn-fields on the fea-coaft
is partly clay, or red loam, but moftly of a light black, or
gravelly quality ; and in the moors, the foil is light black, cold
and watery. In the W. fide of the pariih are 3 deep hollows,
with a rivulet in each, called the den of Aberdour, the den of
Auchmedden, and the den of Troup. Each of thefe dens, as
they advance from the fea-coaft, branch out on each fide into
many other lefler ones, till they end at laft in modes and
moors, about ft or 3 miles from the fea. On each fide of
thefe dens (as they are called), for about a mile, or liftle more,
from the fea, the ground is moftly arable, and, in general, of
A kindly foil, producing pretty good crops of grain, when pro-
perly managed ; but the high ground, or ridge between them,
is a wretchedly poor heath, incapable of any improvement
for the moft part, but at an expenfe far beyond what it C011I4
ever repay, unlefs fituated in the neighbourhood of a great
town. The burn in the weftmoft of thefe dens is the bonn-t
dary between the parifhes of Aberdour and Gamery. The
E. fide of the pariih is more level, and confifts of corn-fields,
fome of a pretty good foil, others very poor, interfperfed
with heath, and near the fea, with large tracks of ground,
producing a coarfe kind of gra£s( called by the country peo-
ple reefk. In the S. part of the pariih is the den of Glaiby,
in which runs alfo a burn, the head of the N. branch of the
river Ugic, into which it difcharges itielf at Rora, in the pa-
riih of Longficle, palling by the church of Strichen in its way.
On the N. fide of this den, and facing the S., are pretty large
ct}rn^nelds; but the greater part of this fide of the pariih con-
4 ' fift*
Of Aberdour. $y 7
fifts of mots and moor, and here and there corn-fields, gained
from thefc, with farm-towns at a confiderable diftaace from
one another ; on the W. border of the pariih, and along its
whole bieadth, are continued inofies and moors.
Sea-Coqftf Covet, CaftU, Cmm*% &c.— The fta-coaft in this
diftrift confifts of high rocks 3 thofe to the W. of the church re-
markably fo, and in the whole length of die pariih there are
only 3 openings, where boats can land, one near the borders of
Pitfligo, one immediately below the church, and one at the
N. W. comer of the parirh, where the burns of Troup and
Auchmedden difcharge themfelves into the fea, and where,
about 50 years ago, was a fmaB neat and convenient harbour,
where {hips from the neighbouring fea-ports ufed to winter,
as well as to land, but which being negle&ed, is now totally
deftroyed, not a veftige of the piers remaining, but the ftonesc
of which they were built, and which have fo entirely filled
up the former bafon, that it is with difficulty that the frfhing
boats, 3 in number, with 6 hands each, can land. Here is a
fifliing-town, confifting of no inhabitants, in general very fo-*
ber, induftrious, well behaved people. Along the fea-coaft am
many caves, entering from the fea. The moft remarkable
one is at the N. E. corner of the pariih, near the borders of
Pitfligo pariih, called Cows-haven, which runs up through
the country, no body knows how far, though feveral people
have proceeded as far as the air, which is foul (the entrance
of the cave being moftly choked with the fand and pebbles
thrown up by the fea), would allow them to do with fafety *.
Vol. XII. 4D About
* There arc two others in the bay of Aberdour, near the charch, through
which the tide flews. The eaftmoft of thofe is quite dry at low water, cow
-vered with a fine fand, and affords a pleafrnt retreat in a warm fummer'a day,
as well as aa agreeable paflage to the rock* on the other fide : It is 00 feet long,
« feet
. I
57? Statiftkal Account
About half a utile Englifli E. from the church, is the fite and
remains of the ancient caftle of Dundargne, upon a rock of
red free-ftone, 64 feet high from the beach immediately below,
161 feet in length, 38 feet mean breadth, making an area of
nearly 29 falls, fufrounded by the fea, when the tide flows,
ejccept a 'narrow neck of rock and earth, which joins (he caftle
rpcfc. to the land, the breadth ia feet, where it join* tfee Jand,
but decreases gradually, fill it reach the. ent^y o£ the cafte*
where it is only about 4 feet wide. Sere the rock has been
cut, but in place of the draw-hric|ge, which (*t if probable)
has formerly given accefs to the caftle, the narrow rock is
made up witl* ear|h, in order to enable the tenants' cattle to
get at the fine graft which grows on the rock *• There is a
Jarg^
21 feet broad, 11 feet high, and the arch njoft neatly jointed. The other
cave is parallel to this, and diftant from it only 4* feet, is never quite dry at
low water, but can be palled through' with dry fool, upon a number of large
ftones whjeh lie in it: it is iqo feet long, 24 feet broad, 13 feet high, and
the rock over thefe is 70 feet high, and is joined to the main land by a neck of
earth, of about a feet wide ; a part pf the rock runs off on the £. floe, al-
moft at right angles from the caves, and forms an arch 46 feet 'broad, and 21 feet
high, through which the feaalf© flaws at high water. n #.«*.»•%
* The only part of the caftle now ftanding, is fre entry. The whole breadth
of the front is only 14 feet, the door is 4 feet 2y inches wide, 6 feet high, and is;
arched; the height of the walls i% feet 7 inches ; the length of the fide-walls
frill ftanding, is 10 feet 6 inches ; there are no other remains of the caftle walls,
jexcept the infide of the foundation, the outfide having fallen down, owing to the:
mouldering away of the rock on which, it was built. There is a fine level green,
where the- outworks have been, which has J>een fecured on the land fide, by 4
wall (the foundation of which ftill remains) of the fame kind of ftone with the
caftle rock, cemented with lime, after the manner of what is commonly called
"rim-lime, as the remains of the caftle have alfo been, and which renders the
walls fo firm, that you may more eafily break the ftone, than feparate it from the
lime ; 6n the outfide of this wall or' rampart, is a dry ditch aof feet long, and
ftill 30 feet wide, and 6 feet deep : running parallel to this, are a other ditches,
of the fame length with it ; the firft of thefe is 1% feet wide, and 10 feet deep,
.the mound, or the diftance between it and the dry 4?tcb, or moat laft mentioned,
- '' '• ' ia
6/ Aberdour* 579
largfc ckirh of ftones at Cobiirty, about if miles £.' from the)
fchurch ; from this cairn a confiderable part of the ftones being
taken away to build enclosures,, and the earth below where
they lay being digged up for making dunghills, it was found
to be mixed with a number of human bones * j
Difeafesi— Theft are. ncr difeafes peculiar to this diftrid,
the bodily complaint that moft prevails among all ranks,
young and old, is rheumatifm.
»•*•'•■ .,
Proprietor s'$ Church, Scbool-haufe, &c.— ■ There ate only (wo
4 D a heritors
is 40 feet. The breadth of the Iaft, and outer parallel, is irregular, from 5 to I
feet, and its depth 4 feet ; the ditance between it and the former parallel is i'%
feet. . Though this fprtrefs could now be of little fexvice, even if remaining fl*
its former ft length, being commanded by the neighbouring ground, yet before
the ufe of great guns, it muft have been a veiy ftrong place, and could have re-
ceived fupplies of men and provisions by fea, as at full tide a fmall veflel could
have lain to at the very foot of the c&ftle rock ; the garrifon, however, might
have been ftarved, for .want of water, by cutting the pipes, which convened the
water to the cailk, from a fpring about 200 paces d&ant, fome remains of
which pipes have been found of late years by the tenants, in digging the ground
between t!ie c a file and Tpring. And tradition fays, that it .was this clrcumltance
which obliged Henry de Beaumont, the Englifh Earl of Buchan, to capitulate,
when befieged therein by Andrew Murray, regent of Scotland, during the cap*
tivity of King David Brtfce, in the* year f 336*.
* The tradition is, that the Banes Having landed on the Buchan coaft, and
pillaging the country in their way to Mnrraf , then in potTefltan of their coun-
trymen, were' come up with, at the place where now fiend the cairns of Metnfie
in the £arilh of Hathen, by the Scotch* Army, and defeated, three of their leaders
being flain,' over whole buried bodies the 3 cairns there were raifed, on the very
toot where' *ach of them fell ; that the Danes retreated, and wer<* again over-
taken and defeated at Cotiurty,' the cairn being raifed over the graves of their
4ain ; and that the! renins of this Daniih army were finally defeated' and cut
to pieces, on a heath' about a quarter Of a mile W. from the church of Gamery,
which ftill retains the name of the Bloody Pots ; in memory of which victory,
- the ikulls of 3 of their flain leaders were built into the infidc of the church wall
Where two of them ftill remain, the other Wing confumed through length of
tune.
.$8d * Statifticel Account
heritors in the pariih, the Earl of Aberdeen, who has that p&tt
of the pariih W. from the church, and Mr* Gordon of Aber-
dour, that on the £• of it, and who refidesonhis eftateat Aber-
<dour houfe. The fabrick of the church is very old, being
built before the Reformation, but in what age is not known.
About 30 years ago, the aile was rebuilt, and fome years af-
ter, the fteeple was rebuilt ; but the reft of the fabrick is in a
<bad ftate of repair, and the fchool-houfe is quite ruinous *•
Language, Difpqfition of the People, Sec.-— Though the Ian-
tguage fpoken in this diftrift is a dialed of the Englifh, known
«fcy the name of broad Buchan, yet the ancient names of pla-
ces Teem to be derived from the Gaelic, fuch as Achlin, Ach-
nagan, Auchmadden, Bracklamore, Achintum, &c. The peo-
ple, in genera], are fober and induftrioos; and, till of later
years, were fo peaceable, and fo little inclined to litigation,
that for ia or 13 years after the year 1766, there was only
one fingle inftance of a law-fuit going from this pariih to the
courts at Abenjjeen, and that arofe from a difference between
'two tenants, about the boundaries^ their refpedive farms ;
every other difference fufcfifting between pariihioners being fet-
tled
* Betides the pariih fchoof, there is another fchool in the W. corner of the pa-
riih near the felling-town, the teacher in which inftro&s young children in read-
ing englifh, in writing and arithmetic, and is commonly a tradeiman, and re-
. eeives from the church feffion, befides the ordinary fees paid by the fcholars, a
yearly falary of tl. is. 8d. Sterling, out of the intereftof money mortified
for that purpofe by one of the lairds of Auchmedden, and his lady's fitter, Lady
Jean Hay, a daughter of the Earl of Kionoul, of which mortification the church
feffion are made truftees. This fchool has been of great fervice to that corner.
There is alio a woman Uvea within a quarter of a mile of the church, who has
taught young children to read engiiih, and knit (lockings, upwards of 40/
years with great (uccefs ; and what is very, extraordinary, has ftijl a few fcho-
lars, who make very good progreCs under her uulruc*r>ionv though Xhe is upwards
. °f 9° years of age. Her name is Jean J^efly ; (he has been a very ufeful <mcnbev
of fociety.
Of Jhcr&mr* fii
tied by arbitration. But of late yean, from the frequent fe-
queflrations or preJecutious for debts, the parifhanera am bet-
ter acquainted wkh lawyers, and oanfequently are more fre-
quently engaged in law-fuits. *
Manufactures* — Th* wotten are employed, pardj for mak-
ing coarfe ferge* for home consumption, hot principal! y in
Ipinning linen yarn for the merchants, and by means of thefc,
and breeding black -cattle, the fubtenfeats and fmaller farmers
make a fliift to paj their rents to tiieir landlords. Mo other
kind of manufacture is carried on in this parifli. What would
be moft profitable for us would be fiflung; but the re*
.ftraints laid upon that bufinefs, by die falt-laws, difcouxage
private perfons from engaging in it j frauds, no doubt, ought
to be prevented, but certainly feme remedy might be found
for feveral of the many hardfhips brought upon thole concern-
ed in the fifiiing bufinefs by thefe laws, without prejudice to
the revenue.
Produffioas.—As to vegetables and plants, there are none
but what are common in the country, except in the den of
Auchmedden, where there are fome rare herbs. And for trees,
except a few fruit-trees m the gavden of Aberdour, and in
the minifter's garden, theve is not one that deferves the name
of a tree, though, in former times, it is evident that there has
been plenty of growing timber. The principal productions
of this parifh are barley, bear, beans, peafe, oats, turnips, po-
tatoes, greens, and cabbages. The ftaple commodity along
the coaft, is barley, bear, and beans ; and, in the moors,
oats. In the year if 66, there were fcarcely xo acres of fown
grafs within the paiiih, and not one ounce of hay aaade ; now
every ^Subtenant or cottager Who has a croft of land (and
there are only 3 tradesmen in the parifh who have no croft),
6 has
/8i Staiiftical Account
has lefc or more of fown graft. The quantity of grain p*0-
duced cannot be afcertained, as few of die formers meafur*
their corns, or weigh their meal,' except what part of theft
the j fell.
Modi of Cultivation, &c*— Sine* the introduffion of tor-'
tiip crops, the farmers, in general, takfc a rotation of crops-
in their infields. After the turnip crop, they fow the field
with War/ clover, and rye-graft feeds': when die grab is
broken up die third or fourth year, the ground is fo*n with
oats* next year with tear or barley, the third with peafe or
turnip, and the fourth with bear arid graft-feeds': But this
only during the former years of their fhort leafes.' The out-
fields, when unimproved, are *orn out with crops after lime,
are employed as folding for their cattle, or as fanghs (as
they are called), a partial kind of follow, and according to
the old abfurd pra&ice, carry fucfceffiVely 3 or 4 crops of
eats* The old Scotch plough, and a mixture of Scotch and'
Englifh ploughs, are ufed in this diftrift. Befides the dung
of their dattle and peat afhes, Which are eVery where ufed *d
a manure, the farmers cm d>4 fea~coaft make ufe of fe*>ware';
and they, as well as the other farmers tbroughotft the parifii,
*fe lime and likewile broken ihells mixed with fea-fand, which1
laft they draw from the neighbouring parifb of Pitfligtf, and
which produces the fame eflbft as lime. This mixture of fheH
and fhod was difcovered only a fow years ago, by MGr* Wil«
Uamfon, a gentletimn employed by tbt Society at Edinburgh/
for making new di'fboVeries of mines,' £ric. and who recom-
mended the ufe of it to the late Mr, Garden of Troup, on
whofe eftate it was difcovered, who fhrft ufed it himftlf*'
and encouraged his tenants to follow his example, which
is now become the general praftice. The lime is partly
brought from the parilh of Rathen, diflant of 6 or 7 miles^
part!/
Of Abtrdour* $9$
partly the prodaft of limeftone brought by lea from tbe
qparries in tbe Boyn, and partly from limeftone dug up
within tbe flood-mark of tbe £eav in tbe bay of Abcrdour,
at low-water ; but this laft begins to be fcarce and hard to be
got at. There are, befides, two other quarrie? of a kind of
red ftpne, tbe lime of which, though of a fandy quality, an-
fjvered very well when laid upon the ground, but requited a
Jarger quantity ; but both theft quarries are either worn out
or over-rup, and b*ve not been worked for ftveral years,
. Improve?***** — Notwithstanding what is (aid above, very
jfcw.folid, fubftantial, and permanent improvements have been
lpade in this, parifh for the laft 30 years, except upon two
farms, where the tenants have longer leafes than is ordinarily
fiven here ; the one of theft had a leafe of tbe Mains of Co*
burty, to himfolf and bis heics, for tbe- fpaoe of 19 years,
and after thje expiration of theft, a liferent to the then pof-
leflbr ; the tenant of this farm and his fqn have done a great
4eal, and moll fubftantially, by draining, trenching, liming,
and dunging their farm, by enclofing a considerable part of
it with good ftone fences, for which purpofe, they were (ap-
plied with ftones from the cairn formerly mentioned, and by
building a fet of elegant officc-houfes, for which houfts and
fences, the heirs of the prefent tenant are allowed the efti,
mated value at the expiration of his leafe. The other tenant
has alio very much improved his farm, but has ptade no en-
clofuscs, having nothing allowed him by the proprietor fist
that purpofe, he has a liferent tack for himfelf, and 19 years
for his fon, upon a rife of rent agreed upon. That others
have not imitated their example, is not owing to thteir igno-
rance of the advantage, nor of the methods of improving
their farms ; nor do they want tbe means and materials tie-
ceffary for that efieft j but to various other caufes, which
have
584 Statjpkal Account
have hkberto hindered, add Mil wait impede the improver-.
ment of oar country. The principal of which, if fttorr
leafes, which (except in the. inftaaces mentioned above) never
exceed 19 years, often not fo many. When the farmer en-
ters upon the poffeffion of his farm, be generally proeeeds
with great fpirit in improving it according to bis ability, and
fometomes even beyond itt for the ficft *6 or %% years of his
leak ; but being fcnfible that this will only tempt others to*
envy aad fapplant him, and the more fo, as there are fo few
inflances of farms to be had, but in an exhaufted ftate ; he
therefore not onry flops fhort in his improvement*, bat con-
tinues to fcpurge the ground to the expiration of his leafe, as
the proprietor is not inclined to renew his leafe with him,
till it is upon the point of expiring,, And thus, after all he-
has done upon it, his fanh is left by him j* as bad, if not
a worfe condition, titan v*hpn be entered to it. Another
hindecance to improvement, is the done neceflariry taken ttj>
in cutting and bringing home pjsats for the tenants them-
felvea, and feet peats (as they are called) for thetf landlords ?
this takes up moft of the fuimmeF, the mpft proper fcafon for
carrying on their improvements. Add to this, their ftralcen**
ed.arcumftanees, the rents of their farms being donbled, an4
in feveral inftances more, in the laft 30 years, and upon the
expiration or fall of a leafe, fines pr graflunqs being ftill paid,
and that to a pretty high extent, though the ground ftill ecm-»
ti&nes in its priftine, or in a worfe, ftate : and the only ad-
vantage, the prefent tenant has over his then predeceflbrs, i»
a little higher price for his grain, and the advanced price of
cattle : and to balance this, the expenfe of managing his farm
is in that period of time almoft tripled. It is hoped, how-
ever, that the proprietors of land will fee their miftake, and
g«mt thane tenants longer leafe* ; for it is the fettled opinion
of the moft intelligent people in this country, that if tenants
got
Of Ahcrdvur. §§§
got leafes of their farms to thcmfclvcs and their heirs, for
*t 3? Q* 4 *9 years, they could »ot only afford to pay thp
prefeat rent, which diftrefies thetn, but live comfortably,
and at the fame jime improve their farads, render them far
more valuable to the proprietor aad bis family, and pre-
vent the disagreeable neceffity of frequent fequeftrations for
rents* As to the obftacle of improvement, arifing from the
time oeceflarily taken up in providing and fringing homo
their fuel, it is hoped, that the laudable and ufeful ftep taken
l>y the Legiflature in abolifhing the duty upon coals carried
coaftways, will be productive of the happieft confequences.
Were all fuch obftacks to the improvement of the country,.
and other bars to induftry, which impolitic laws throw iate-
the way, removed, our country bids fair to advance in im-
provement, with a rapidity hitherto unknown.
MiUftant Quarries.— There are two millftone quarries ia
the parifh, one belonging to the Earl of Aberdeen, in the
land of Auchmedden, in the face of a very high rock, over-
looking the fca, and whole foot ia waflied by it at full tide ;
to this quarry, the workmen, from a tremendpus height, de-
fcend by a kind of ftair cut out of the rock, and where this
fails, by ladders reaching from one fhelf of the rock to
aitttther* When the miUftones are finiibed, they are push-
ed over the remaining precipice, and fall at the foot of the
rock, on a fmall fandy beach dry at low-water, but covered
by the tide when it flows. From this the millftoncs are con-
reyed by lea, and landed at the inouth of the burn of Troup,
the weft boundary of the parifh. The other millftone quarry
is alfo ctofe by the fea, upon the lands of Coburty, belongs
Jng to Mr. Gordon of Aberdour, but is now neglefted. And
all aljpng (he coaft is found a kind of red freeftone.
' Vol. XII. 4 E Statistical
*86
Statiftical Account
Statistical Table of the Parijb of Aberdour for tb*
Tepr 179a.
Length of the pariih,Eng, miles, <{
Breadth, - - - - 6
Population, according to Dr. Web-
fter, in 1755, - - 1397
Population in 1760, - * 13*9
In 179a, - 1390"
tylales under xo years of
ifoufea inhabited by families
of 4 perfons, - 53 %i%
— by families of 5 perfons, 44 aao
€ perfons, a* 13a
' ■> ' 7 perfons, 17 ujr
1 8 perfons, 7 56
1 o perfons, 6 54
age,
— from 10 to *o, *
from ao to 30, - -
from 30 to 40, -
-— from 40 to 50, - r
from 50 to 6o, -
140
to perfons, 4
40
*3*
33
79
86
46
13
'3
16
49
. from 60 to 70, - -
5*
— from 70 to 80, -
*3
Sum total of families and
from to to oo, - -
- 3
609
perfons, - 340
Seceders, 3 families^ - 19
'3*
Females under 10 yean,
»a4
— individuals, , - 3
from 10 to ao, - -
XOI
—
U
— - from ao to 30, - -
*3S
Episcopalians, 1 family, -* 4
from 30 to 40, - -
9»
——-individuals, r • 3
— - from 40 to 50, - • -
tf
-**
i
from 50 to 60, - -
79
f apifts, w - - -,
%
from 60 to 70, - -
*S
Members of the Eftabliihed
. ■■ from 70 to 80, - -
to
Church,, 1
*77
— from 80 to 90, - -
1
Proprietor refilling, -
from 90 to ioo, - -
4
— — non-rending, • -,
697
Clergyman, - „ .
Married perfons, -
486
Schoolmafters, ...
Widowers, - - , •
9
Surgeon, -
Widows,
4«
Farms above 50 L a-year, - a
Unmarried men above 50*
3
Ditto, under 50 J. - . 53
aa
Subtenants having ploughs, 18
Houfes inhabited, -
34*
73
— - by fingle perfons, -
43
43
Shopkeepers, 4
— by families of a perfons,
da
"4
Innkeepers, r . . 4
«— by families of 3 perfons, 76 s
lat.
—
«
Wcave^
Of AUrdour*
&1
Weavers, 24
Apprcntides to ditto, • a
Shoemakers, - - 16"
Apprentices to ihocmakert, 3
Carpenters, -
Apprentices to ditto, -
- 3
bailors, ...
Apprentices to ditto* -
- 7
- 3
Mafons, - - -
Sailors and filhermen, -
Millftone quarrie'rs,
killers,
Dyers,
Male domeftic Servants, -
Female ditto,
Male farm ferrants under
20, 56"
to, it
20
female ditto under 26,
Ditto above 10, -
^erfons (Serving in the arnajr in
the late war, - 14
Ditto in the nary, - • ij
' Emigrants to North America
fince the year 17)0, mi.
Weavers, . - - i
Wright, ... 1
Ditto to Weft Indies :
Wrights, or carpenters, - - a
burgeon • i
Clerks, .... t
Average of children taught at
l*thfchool3,engliib, writing,
and arithmetick, for 1791,
and 9 preceding years, 50
26* Number of children t aught la-
tin in faid fpace of time, 7
of poor en the roll
xo for 1702, and 6 preceding
years, - - - 30
Average of diJburiements to
15 ditto, - . LaoSterL
Capital of their funds, L. 1 50 dittju
Average of burials, 1791 and
!• 9 preceding years, - ao
3 Average of births for 1791
20 and 9 preceding years, - 30
12* of children from each
4 marriage, - 4
ft Number of perfons married in
ft the laft 10 years, - - 106 21 if'
a lloth parties in the pariih, 54 108
The men in the pariih, . 26
'The women in the pariih, - 26
87 The men from other parilhes, 26
The women front other parilhes 2 6*
5& aia
To go to the account of other
parilhes, . ." . $z
27 j^umberofpariihidncrs married
ihz79i,ahd9pfecedingyears, zoo
fcumbef of (addle horfes, * %
— — of horfes for farming,
3 young and old, - 1 340
• of black cattle, • . 1429*
^ — offljeep, - !99o
*—— of carts, by computation, 279
— of wains drawn by oxexv *
5 Wages of men fervants employe
ed in husbandry annually,
from - . . Clio^U
4 * 2 Wage*
588 Statistical Account
Wages of boys, ditto, from 1 1. to 4 1. Rent of the parUh, inclufing
— of female fervants, % L to 5 L 40 1. for rent of a millftone
— of da j -labourers, with quarry, and 8 1. for rent of
meat anfl drink, a-day, - 6d. kelp-ftiores, about - - 1600I4
ditto without meat, - - is. Minister's ftipend, money, L.43 17 6
— tailors, with entertain- Meal, %o\ bolls, at 10 s. the
ment,. 6"d Voll, - 10 5
- mafons, with ditto, - is. Money for communion ele-
- ditto, without meat, - 1 s» 6 d. meats, - - -* ft 15
\
— of wrights, with enter- ■
tainment, - - - 7*. L. 55 17 6
— plough- wrights, with do. is. Glebe, including grafs, acres
— reapers during harveft, 7^,
men, - * - - il. ios., Scheolmafter'* falary, meal,
—-women from - - 15 s. to 1 1. bolls 5$, and money, ^ % 10 4
Observations on tbeforegding Table.
The number of the inhabitants, as ftated in the table, is from ac*t*al enu-
meration : fo is the number of tradefmen, and thofe of other occupations,
Their ages are as near the truth, as could be obtained, and k itf prefumed,
pretty accurate. The fmall decreafe of the inhabitants of this pariih fince tho
year 1769, is not owing to the number of deaths exceeding the births, as ap-
pears from the table ; but to a conftant drain of young people, who leave the
psriih. Many of the young men, defpairtng of getting a comfortable, or in-
deed any kind of fettlement here, remove to towns, either to learn or profe-
cute their refpe&ive trades ; others of them to (uch places as^give higher wages
to farm-fervants. And young women repair to towns, where they are em-
ployed as fervants, and not only to the neighbouring towns of Aberdeen, Banftv
Sec. but even to Edinburgh and London. Betides, in this current year, a great-
er number than ordinary have died, feveral young people of putrid fore throats,
but the greater part old people. The people here are very Inattentive to the
jregiftrating their children's births or baptifms ; fo that no authentic k informa-
tion can be got from the pariih regifter ; but the annual average of births, ac-
cording to the regifter, and making allowance for fuch as may have been ne-
glected to be regiftratcd, may amount to the number ftated in the table. No
regifter of deaths or burials was kept here, till the late aft of parliament lay-
ing a tax upon burials, Sec. Since that time, the fchoolmaftcr has kept one,
but many people are averfe to the meafure of regiflrating their friend's death ;
befides, feveral of the parifluoners of Aberdour ire buried elfewhere, and Gran-
gers,
Of Abtrdo\tr. $%%
gcrs, on the otheT nand, bury here: But the annua! average, as in the table,
frill be found to be v*ry near the truth. The regifter of marriages has all a*
long been accurately kept ; and from it is the article of marriages in the table
taken. The average of births from each marriage, is calculated from a hun*
dred known inftances in the neighbourhood of one another. It appears from
the table, that the number of foldiers and failors employed in his Majefty's fer-
vice in the laft war, amounts to upwards of the eight part of the whole males
reliding in the parifh at this time, from 20 to 50 years of age ; a very large pro*
portion indeed, befides thofe employed in the merchant fervice, which farther
accounts for the fmall decreafe of inhabitants. The number of the horfes, as in
the table, is from actual enumeration. And fo is that of the black cattle an2
Iheep, as it ftood in fummer 179a, when their numbers are hSgteft ; with this
difference, however, that being obliged, from the reluctance of .the Ibwer rank
•f people (through ignorance or prejudice) to inform as to the number of their
Hack cattle and iheep, to employ others than the owners in the enumeration,
their reports cannot be equally depended upon : but of thefe laft, the number
was but fmall, and deviates, at moft, only a little from the truth. The iheep,
in general, are of the north country breed, only about 20 of the Engliih breed
ef the polled kinb^j but along the coafty are a good many of a mixed breed be-
tween the two. The number of iheep has much decreafed fince the introduc-
tion of winter keeping, the (beep walks being too confined to enable the owner
fo pay a ihepherd for the whole year, and reap any profit befides from his finall
flock. All thefe feveral forts of cattle, being, in general, but fmall, may be
estimated at pcefent, at the following average value, vis. horfes from 5I. to 61.,
black cattle from al. to 3L, and iheep at 6 s. Sterling. This is the opinion of
the moft knowing people the writer of this article has converted with upon the
subject, but he does not fuftain himfelf a competent judge in thefe matters.
Generally fpeaking, and with few exceptions, there are as many carts as horfes
employed in the fummer time in bringing home fuel ; but as a good many young
horfes are reared, who are unfit for drawing in the cart, the carts, as in the
table, are computed to be in proportion to the horfes, in the ratio of 4 carts to
5 bones. The ploughs are drawn, fome few in the moorland part of the pariib,
oy 6 fmall horfes, a or 3 ploughs by 8 oxen and a horfes ; and through the reft
of the pariih, a few are drawn by 2 horfes, but the greater part by 4, or %
horfes and 2 oxen, and thefe laft are moft approved of.
In Hating the funds belonging to, and difburfements made to the poor, it was
not thought fair to go back fo far as the years 1783 and 1784, when the wants
of the poor required an extraordinary fupply ; and accordingly a confiderable fum
was actually diftributed : But the average is taken from the year 1792, and 6
preceding years, when there has been no extraordinary demand ; and the funv
mentioned in the table, as given to the poor, feveral of whom have families, has,
with
J90 Statifiical Account
-with their ow* induftry, where able to work, kept them in their own homes, ft
4hat sot above one or two at a time hare gone a-begging.
The miniiler's ftipend ftands in the table, as it has hitherto been paid, but
there is a procets of augmentation prefently depending before the Court of Seffion.
Befides the land-rent, as in the table, paid by the tenants, partly in mosey,
partly in meal and bear, they alfo pay cuftoms, fuch as wethers, hens, peats,
and a certain number of carriages, as verbally agreed upon, or as contained ia
their letters of agreement (for there are very few leafes or afiedations extend-
ed on damped paper in the pariih), and all the fubtenants, befides the rent they
pay for their reipedive poflefnons to the tenants, their matters, do over and a-
bove that, each pay yearly to the proprietor a hen, and three days work. And
to the refiding heritor, the tenants pay Iikewife a certain number of reaper*
inharoft*
NUM.
OfFcttcnfi. 59t
NUMBER XL.
PARISH or FETTERESSO.
(Cowty of Kincardine, Synod of Angus and Meakn%
Presbytery of Fordoun.)
By tit Rev, Mr. John Hutchkon.
Name, Rivers, Extent, Sail, \3c*
^THHE name of the parifh is Gaelic, and means a place
■*• between the banks of two rivers, which is high-
ly defcriptive, not only of the place where the church
Hands, but likewife of a tract of ground about a mile fquare,
extending towards the coaft, on the N. of which runs the
Cowie, and on the S., the Carron, two fmall rivers with
high banks. The parifh is about 10 ftatute miles in length,
between 5 and 6 in breadth, and contains 19,606 Scotch
acres, or 24,914 Englifli, according to a furvey of the county
fey Mr. VL Garden. Of the above, one-third may be ara-
ble;
19* Statjftical Account
ble ; the reft is barren ground, confiding of inofles and moot*
covered with heath and ftones, chiefly granite*
Face of the Country., — The parifh may be divided into three
diftri&s The trad of country lying between the Cowie and
Carron from the coaft, about 3 miles to the W., has a rich
and fertile appearance. Clofe to this diftrid, ftands the man-
fion-houfe of Mr. Barclay of Urie, on a rifing ground near
the river Cowie, the floping banks of which are planted with
trees towering one above another. This plantation, which
extends an Englifh mile to the W., and as far to the E. of
the houfe, on both fides of the river, prefents a moft de-
lightful appearance, and the vaft extent of highly cultivated
ground divided into largr fields, and enclofed with thorn
hedges, greatly heighten the beauty of the profpe& The
trad of ground in this diftri&, between the church and the
coaft, about 20 years ago, was chiefly moor covered with
fhort heath, furze, and broom ; now it is almoft all en-
clofed, and in a ftate of high cultivation. What part is not
fo, is planted with Scotch firs, larix, afh, Sec. which are in a
very thriving ftate, and will add confiderable beauty to the
appearance of the country in a few tears. At regular dis-
tances, neat commodious dweliing-houfes of ftone and lime*
and covered with dates, are built by the proprietor, Mr. Bax>
clay, for his tenants. This circumftance is mentioned to
fhow the rapid progrefs of improvement in this place. A-
bout two m les S. W. from Urie, is the manfion-houfe of
Fetterefib, formerly the refidence of the ancient and noble
family of Marifchal, and now of Mr. Duff, fpn of the latf
Admiral Duff, who purchafed the eftate from the York-build-
ing Company in 1782. The fite of the houfe is fnug and
warm, and f unrounded with fine old trees, which, together
with the adjoining improved fields, exhibit a beautiful ap-
pearance*
jktrincc. The fitcond dtftria ftr* tchca along the cos*ft, and
comprehends the eftates of Cowie, Muehnls, and Elfick.
Here the fact of the country has hut a bare appearance, as
there are no trees, excepting a few at die otauhuuhoufes of
Muc bal* aad I^lfick. There are, however, rich corn fields
endofed with ftone «r earthen fences on both fides of the
poft-ro*4 that runs through this part of the perilh,. whicli
j^es the country * fertile appearance* The lands of M oun^
quieh, lying 5 miles W, from the cpeft, form the third dif-
trift. The face of the country here, in general, 23 not fiu
Teurable* In one particular fpot, however, great improve,
ments hate been mad* of late, which, amidft the gloomy
wefte which every where furrounds it, prefents an agreeable
profpe& Mr. Silver, * native of tbb diftrift; made a pur*
chafe of the eftate of Metherby, on his return from the Weft
Indies, where he built a genteel modern dweJling-hqufe, with
% complete &t of offices, which, fince his death, have been
greatjy improved by his fan. He likpwifo planted feveral
pieces of moarilh ground with Scotch fira, aft) and oak, Sec.
which are in a very thriving flat* ; and highly improved and
Cultivated about 100 Scotch acres; which hi enclo&d in finatt
fields, with ilone fences and hedge row* of aft ; by which
means; and the very gteat improvements' he made on the ftate
of the ros4s> the inhabitants hete are happily put on a foot-
ing with tbofo on the coeft.
Climate artd Difeafes.—Tht air is in general dry and healthy,
and the people little fpbje& to contagions diftempers. The
Jnoft prevalent areiheomatifms and nervous fevers. It de-
fovea to be remarked, that the people who rtfde near the
spofles fbd marfty placfe* eftjoy as good health, and live UL
as great age, ?s thofie near the eoaft. Many of them live to
70, and fome of them to So years of age, and Mpwasds.
*0l. XII. 4 * • Ctafii
594 Statiftical Actfdunt
• Co aft, Tijb% Harbours, &c— The coaft from Stonehavetf
fco the N. boundary of the pariQi, extends nearly 7 Engliflv
miles. - It is bold and rocky. There is one bay, called the
Bay of Stonehaven, which flretches from Downy to Garron
Point, that is, about two miles. In this bay, there is a fidU
jnon fiQiing, the property of Mr. Barclay y and a whke fil-
ing, the property of Mr. Innes of Cowie. Three boats are
employed in this fifhing, with fix hands to each boat. The
fi(h caught here, are ling* cod, turbet, ikate, haddocks, &c*
which- are con fumed by the people in the neighbourhood*
There are Kkewife two creeks or fmall harbours, one at
Muchals, another at Sketraw. At the former, there were
two fifliing-boats, which were loft in a ftorm about $0 years
ago, and the crews perifhed, fince which time they have not
been replaced. At the latter, there are 7 boats of much the
fame fize, and having the fame number of hands with tbofo
*t Cowie. The fiih caught here are like wife confumed by
the people in the adjacent country. Here, by die way, it
deferves to be remarked, that a Mr. Mackie, lately from the
Weft Indies, made a pnrchafe of the lands of Sketraw, ia
3788, where he has built a very good dweliing-boufe, and
made very great improvements, having, in the fpace of 3
years, enclofed with ftone fences, and highly cultivated, about
60 Scotch acres, part of which was formerly barren, covered
with heath and furze. He continues- to carry on his im-
provements with great fpirit and induftry.
Population.— The population ef Fcttereffo is not fo great
as it was formerly, though it is fUll fomewhat higher than it
was 40 years ago. By an exaft furvey taken in 1764, the
number was 3500. The return to Dr. Webfter in 1755,
was only 308a. Increafe in 9 years 418. The number of
fouls, in 1790, was 3370. Dccreafe in 26 years 130. In-
creafe,
Of fettereff*. 595
credit, upon the whole, in 35 years, from 1755 to 179% is
a88. The above mentioned decreafe, is owing chiefly to two ■
or more farms being turned into one ; a pra&ice not uncom- ,
moo here. The births, at an average, are 70 ; the marriages
25 ; the deaths cannot be afcertained, no regifter «f them
having been kept. There is a Chapel of Eafe, and an Epis-
copal mecting-houfe in the N. part of the parilh. The nu«b>
her of Episcopalians is about 400 : they are an obliging, peace*
able, decent fet of people, and live in good habits with thofc
p£ the EftabUQunent. There are no other fe&ariea in the pariih,
Church, School, and Poor* — Formerly Earl Marifichal was
patron of the pariih ; but upon the forfeiture of the titles and
eftate of that family in 171 5, the right of patronage de-
volved to the King. The church is old, inconvenient, and
unfit to contain the congregation, when fully afieinbled toge*
then It is 94 feet in length, within walls, and 19 in breadth,
Oppofite to the pulpit, there is an aiie, which is of fervice
to the preacher, by enabling him to fpeak with greater eafe,-
The aile was built in 1730 ; hut when the church was built, 1
if not known, there being no date upon it* Neither wall*
nor roof are plaftered ; and as the floor is from 3 to 4 feet
lower than the furface of the ground on the outfide of the
walls, poo}s of water ftand in the area feveral days after a*
heavy rain. The buryiog-ground is much larger than any
in this part of the country. There are about 250 tomb or
grave Hones in it, fome of which are of an ancient date; and.
a few have very fine engravings upon them, done by a Mr,,
Crefiwell, a fanner in the pariih, who could not form a finglo
letter with the pen. The manfe was built in 1726, and has'
undergone few repairs, excepting new windows in 1784*.
The ftipend is 71 1. as. 6d. Sterling, a chalders of meal,
and ii obalder of bear j the glebe, including the garden and
4 F 3 pafture
p$ Statifaai dtctofit
pdtture STdilndi is 64 *fcr<*^— Tt* ftfcoelfMfter** falajy U 8^*
6 b. 3d. Sterling, which, together wfeh the emritMifcats t$
the ofice, make Us living stoat ve i. Sterling a-yetr. Twelve
years ago* the beritoiB built an esteMent fcboel, and t hosjfc
for the enafter* under one r*of, trhieh toft they neatly ihiib-
ed to *ncr>*Yttge feint 0* fceep bbarderft^The httntber *f poor
who receive oebsffanri fu^pl y is> at ita overage* 36. There
are 5 or * betides; ^ho receive weekly from t s. t* s*i eactu.
The aaowey helmgiAf to the £001% is fch Sterling the m»
tcrthft «rf tftoich, with the weekly eoltoftioa** tet^M»t^ dM>rt>
cloth dues, See. amounts to about 40 1. Sterling yearly.
j^^n^wVftf>i— The veftige 6f a* old eatnpy oa on hill called
Ree-Bikea, or the King's Dik*B> appear* v**y diftihft. It
3* ana oblong %vare df ai nores, has four oodaft and redtoubt*
before tkm, and thariy of the trenches ate AMI pretty <teep++
la afaroft cverip past af the parfft, remans* %ti Drtiidital
temples are to be net *rith f„ On the «oaft about a toil* aittt
a half N. «n>m Btoatobaven, appear the remains etf a cattle*
the reGdencc «£ the Thaoes tof Cowie or IKeaxtott* On *
afieg
* It is fuppofed by fome to have been a Roman encampment, and to be the
very fpbt occupied by Agricola's troops before his engagement with tSalgacus
tne Scotch Idng. Oh a moot 1 mites £. of the cam£, there ttre a gtfcat many
tumuli, or fmail cairns, fend feme vety Uuge ones, which *cfc fuppofed to be Se-
pulchral monuments raifed on the field of battle to the memory of the dead.
The moor is called the Kemp-ftane Hill, on each fide of which, there is a mo-
rafs, which would coVer the flanks of the army that firft readied the ground*
and it is not iiAprtroable the battle was fought between the monties.
f Since the incumbent wa* fettled, there was one that itemed to be ftfettjr
entire, the three circles formed by ftones of different fizes being very diftindfc.
But the farmer on whbfe poffeffion it flood, demoliflied it a few years ago, by
carrying ofr the fames Tor building.
t Bachnuan cafk the Hi ate *f Cowre Macpetitftru*. Donald Dane the tfro-
tber of Makoim Canmore (be fays) bribed Macpeadaus *» Gomes nterm>e, *»
aflaffinate
* Bvchan. Hift. Scot. Lib. vit\
Fifefe (pou** near to the Than* caftle, there had formerly
t>ee« * place of wbrfliip ; the gahks and part of the walls at*
ftfll Handing* Adjoining Co this* there is a hurying-greundl
enclofet with ftone wails* Where ihariy of the people in tha
N» ptrt of die pariA, on account of its vicinity to then*
bury their dead*
£tnt mi Prxfrietvrs^Tkv vatned rent of the pariflx io
|lj}«|l. At. ftdw Scotch, and the red rent is about 4200 L
Sterling; The nnsnfcer of heritors is 6, and of feuara 8. Tw<»
of the fcrmter* and 4 of the latter^ ate refidenh. Thirty year*
age* about one half of the rent of the porifti wsa paid in
grain, hot bow the grain is aimbft ail converted, and the rent
is chiefly paid in dinner. Improved land if let from iL to
il. xoe« Sterling the acre* Softie pieces on the coaft nfcant
Stonenaven ate let much higher. Unimproved land from {0»*
to 15s* the acre *«
Agriculture. — Before 1763, farming was little ftudsed here
ns a fcsehce* and for that reofbn was not carried 00 according to
any regular plan. The fpixit of inquiry into tha methods prae-*
tiled in the S. parts of the country had not gone forth. Hence
the mode of farming that had been in ufe for ages paft, was
ftill continued. Every farmer followed the coilrfe which hi*
father taught him, and was fatisEcd. In this Rate, the
country
ftAaffixikte Duncan the baftard. Sir David Dairy m pie call* bim Malpedir;
which he tranflates from the Gaeiic, " the fervant of Peter." After him, one
of the name of Frafer was railed to the rank of Thane of Cowie. Sir David
ftalrymple in his Annals, to which the reader is referred, mentions fome re-
markable fads relating to this family. The ancient and noble families of Lovat
and Saltern, are descended from them, and perhaps molt of the families of that
name Ho Scotland*
• The daily wages for labourers in hufbandry, are from xod. to It., whereat
so years fince, they were not above 8 cL The ufual wages of a male-ferrant are
7 1, a-year
fr*
Statiftical Account
country might have remained till now, had not Mr. Barclay,
who is poflfefled of an enterprifing fpirit, and extenfive know*
ledge in agriculture, which he acquired by reading the beft
publications on that fubjeft, and by his own obfervations in
the different tonrs which he made on foot in his younger
years through Scotland, and a great part of England, intro-
duced a new fyftem. Before the above period, lime, as a
means of improvement, was little known, and had never
been ufed ; clearing the land of ftones, ftraighting and level,
ling, fumtner fallow and green crops, dividing and enclofing
ground in feparate fields, had never been attempted. AH this
was left to be done by Mr. Barclay, who embarked in the
arduous, undertaking with animation and fortitude $ and not-
witbftanding die many obftacles that neceflarily occurred to.
obftruft his progrefs, he perfevered in the profecution of his
defigns with ardour and refblution : But as he was fo oblig-
ing as give the writer of this an account -of his operations
and improvements, he fliall publifh it in the terms he re-
ceived it.
" Land improved by Mr. Barclay of Ury, in the fpace of
a 5 years, about 800 acres j 500 of which were arable, and
30Q
7 L i-year ; and that of a female-feivant 3 L Twenty years ago, their wages
were little more than a half of what they are now. When the incumbent was
fettled, the wages of the firft* male-fervant he had was a 1. 6 s. 8 d. Sterling a-
year, and of his firft female-fervant 1 1. 6 s. 8 d. Sterling. Every article of liv-
ing is increafed in proportion. Beef coft then i-J d., or at moft * d. the pouruj.
Mutton was not fold fey weight ; on an average it was o d. the quarter. Veal
and lamb were feldom brought to market ; few people thinking it worth while
to fatten them. Now beef cofts 3 d. the pound in autumn and winter, and 4 d.
in fpnng and fummer. Veal, mutton, and Iamb, are from 3d. to 3Jd. the
pound. Butcher meat is to be had in Stonehaven, the neareft market town,
every lawful day ot the week, which is very convenient for the inhabitants, and
the people in the neigh boar hood. Poultry and eggs are almoft double the price"
they were fome years face.
Of Tettertjfo. $§§
joo barren, covered with fhort heath, furze, and brooms
The land was improved in this manner, by clearing it of
ftones, many of which were fplit by gunpowder, draining^
levelling, and eaclofing, chiefly with thorn herigea.
" Mode of Cropping^-BirH year, fallowed and improved
by lime ; 50 bolls of Scotch ihells, water meafure, to each
acre ; 4 firlots to each boll, and 34 Scotch pints to each firlot*
The lime ploughed into the land, before winter, andfbme-
times the land was ploughed a Second time before it. The
firft crop oats or barley. Second year, dunged, and fawn with
turnips, in broad caft, and hoed while any weeds appeared*
The turnips fometimes fed off by fheep, but moft commonly
one half drawn, and the other half fed off in alternate ridges,
the whole ground being included in the fold. Third year*,
barley and grafe-feeds. If intended to be broken up for
wheat, 1 a pound of broad clover, and 2 pecks of rye-grafs
to each acre. If intended to remain for pafture, a greater
quantity of rye-grafs, with the addition of 6 pound of white,
and 6 pound if yellow clover, and 4 pound of rib grafs to
each acre. That part of the land propofed for grain, (wa»
folded the firft or fecond year of the grafs, and ploughed up
for wheat or oats, which were fucoeeded by turnips $ and the
above courfe continued.
" Mr. Barclay has planted about 800 acres with Scotch firs*
great part of which are fince filled up with oak, afh, beech*
and larix. Bis tenants * in the parifb have alfo improved
nearly the fame quantity of land which he himlelf has done,
and follow, in general, almoft the fame mode of cropping.
Twenty-two wheel-ploughs are at this time at work upon
and thofe farms* The farm houfes and offices are built of ftone
lime,
• Se* StatUKcal Accouat of KiaodT, voL VL
&>$ Staiyiitol Jceeuni ■
lime, and reofrd with flales or tiles. He haa kid down by 4
tegular plan, above la acres of ground, with ftraets 48 feet
wide, and a fijtfare of 9 acoeq is the middle, pajft «f which!
is feued and built .' All the houfes are roofed with fates o&
tiles. This village adjoins to the town of Stonehaven, where
{fore is a faie and convenient, harbour.'*
To the above account, it may be added, that Mfr . Bar-
city's exftcnnve improvements are chiefly round the manfioa*
heofe ; that die fields are all fmooth and level like a bowling*
green ; and that they atfe let to a hatcher for grating, whtf
baa from 50 tQ 60 hiack -cattle; and between 800 and 1000
iheep feeding in diem ; by which mean* the value of the'
ground muft be increafed in a few years.
Jt is to be regretted,- that the farmers on the lands of the'
£fckefr proprietors^ made no attempts towards improving their
farms for s long' while after Mr. Barclay's tenants commenced
their operations,' becaufir they had no encouragement given
them by their landlords: At length, however, fome of the
jfcoft judicious* who were in good circumftances, began to
drefir and time a few acres by vray of trial, for they wiflied
to proceed with flow ?nd cautious ftcp*. Finding by the
erops which they produced, that their labour and expenfe
were folly repaid ; they made a fecond and a third trial. AIT
Which, anfwering beyond expectation ; they annually dreftcf
jttd improved pretty large fields, laying down the firft grain
prop with graft-feeds, till their whole farm waar cultivated.'
Animated by their example, mere than by Mr. Barclay's/
feecaufe more on a level with their capacity and circumftan-
ces, /others were induced to improve their ground. Thus/
by degrees, the fpirit of improvement is become univerfal
here, infbmuch that people who poffefs but a few acres, fbw
\ turnips, plant fome potatoes, and lay down a ridge 0/
Of Fettcrcffb. fat
two with grafs- feeds. Upon the whole, by the agricultural
improvements in this pariih, the ftate of it is rendered effen-
tiallj better than it was 20 years ago ; and by the advan-
tages which Mr. Barclay's operations and example have pro-
duced, not. in this parifh only, but through the greater part
of this county, he has juftly merited the thanks and efteem
of all around him.
Vol. XII. 4 G NUlft
<Sos Stati/lical Account
NUMBER XLI.
PARISH of WAMPHRAL
(County and Synod of Dumfries, Presbytery of Loch-,
MAB£N.)
By a Friend to Stati/lical Inquiries*
Naifie, Extent, Surface, Soil, &c.
"VTITAMPHRAY is fuppofcd by fomc who underftand the
* * Gaelic, to fignify " the deep Tale in the foreft."
Others equally well acquainted with that language, can give
no account of its etymology. If not from the Celtic, it is
perhaps derived from the Saxon language. The length of
the parilh from N. to S., is about 5 miles, and its breadth 3.
Its N. E. extremity is mountainous ; that part of it which
lies along the Annan, is fertile and populous. A large brook,
called Wamphray Water, divides it diagonally from N. E.
te S« W. The fituatioa of the church and manfe on the
winding
Of Wamphray. G03
winding banks of this rivulet, in a deep and woody reeds, i$
fingularly romantick.
Climate, &c. — More rain falls in this country, than in
many other parts of Scotland. The beft built walls, where,
expofed to the S., become damp within. The air therefore
nuft be moid, but the longevity of the people, and the in-
frequency of epidemical diftempers, fufficiently prove that it
is a healthy diftrid. The water is very pure. The foil,
when it is cultivated, is in fome places clayey, in others gra*
▼elly. There is marl of various kinds ; but, on account of
the difficulty of digging it out, and fome other circutnftances,
it has hitherto been little ufed. Attempts have been made,
but without fuccefs, to find* coal and lead.
Population. — The number of the people in 1755, according
to Dr. Webfter's report, was 458. The population of the
parifh feems to have been anciently greater than at prefent.
One farmer now poffeffes what was occupied 60 years ago by
jo or 12 tenants. The population, however, has increafed
of late, and now amounts to 487 : males 235 ; females 25 V
Inhabited houfes 90. Number to each inhabited houfe al-
xnoft $i r. Of births, deaths, and marriages, there has been
no regifter kept for many years paft. There is now living,
one perfon aged 96, one <)2% one 89^ three or four 86 and
upwards. A woman whp died about 12 years ago, was ge~
nerally believed, in the neighbourhood, to be z 13 years old*
There are 3 mafons, 2 joiners, 4 tailors, 9 weavers, 2 fmiths*
% {hoemakers, 1 furgcon*
Heritors, Stipend, &c. — The number of heritors is 5. Two
of them refidc in the parifh. The Earl cf Hopctoun is prin-
fi^al heritor and patron. The flipend is about 75 1., include
\ G * «&
6d4 Statiftical Account
iiig one chalder of oat-meal, valted at 81. 6 s. 83. The glebe
is worth 5 L or 6 1. a-year. The prefent incumbent is the
eighth minifter fince the Revolution. It is fomewhat fiogu-
gula'r, thai: not one of thefe died in pofleffion of this living,
and the prefent minifter i* on the point of refigning it.
Se&aries.—Thttt is a meeting-houfe belonging to the fe&
of Relief, which was built about 16 years ago, and which,
till it became vacant lad year, was attended by many, chiefly of
the lower clafs of people, from this and fome of the neighbour-
ing parifhes. The people of this parifh will readily return to
the church, if a minifter whom they refpeft is fettled among
them ; and that event would probably put an end to the Re-
lief Eftablifliment here. Of Seceders of different denomina-
tions, ezclufive of thofe who ufed to attend the Relief meet-
ings, there are about 36.
Poor, School. — The number of poor who, fome years agof
were relieved by colle&ions in the church, was about ao.
The parochial fchool is commonly attended by 30 or 40 chil-
dren, who are taught reading, writing, and arithmetick.
Agriculture, &c. — The land-rent is about 1570I. The num-
ber of iheep is about 6000 *; black cattle 500 ;• ploughs 40;
acres in tillage about 480 ; in big and barley 40; potatoes 40 ;
peafe 8 ; turnip 4 ; fown grafs annually cut 70. The re-
mainder of the land annually ploughed, is fown with oats,
fome of which are of the red, and other early kinds. They
begin to fow in the end of March, and to reap in the begin-
ning of September. There have been about 90 acres planted
with fir within the laft 30 years. There is befides, a con-
fiderablo
• The iheep are of the common Scotch biceiL
Of Wamphray. 60$
fiderable quantity of natural wood, viz. oak, afli» birch,
hazel, 8cc.
Great improvements have been made in agriculture vtithi*
the laft 10 years. Thefe are hi a great meafure * wing to
the encouragement given by the Earl of Hopetoan* Moil of
his LordQiip's lands were let laft year upon leafes, for the
arable farms, of 21 years, for the fiieep farms, of 14. None
•of the former tenants were removed. They are, in general,
very aftive and intelligent, and by the ufe, not only of lime,
bat of green and drilled crops, keep the land in excellent
condition. Little or no lime was ufed till of late: laft year
above aooo bufhels were laid on, all brought from a diftanoe
•f at lead 16 miles. Several farms are well enclofed, moftly
with thorn hedges *. There is one corn-mill in the parifti ;
by the laft leafes, the tenants are relieved from the payment
of multure f, and the miller is now paid for his work, about
a thirtieth part of the meal.
Mifattaneous Obfervations.— The common wages of a man-
fervant, are from 6 1. to 8 1. a-year ; of a woman, from aL ios.
to 4 1. A confiderable quantity of falmon is killed in the
Annan, with an inftrument refembling a trident, called a
lielter, in the ufe of which, fome of the young men are very
expert. They ofte^ fifli in winter, and in the night by torch
light, not fcrupling to follow the falmon in the water in the
time of froft and fnow. Thefe fifli are fold at an average, at
a^d. the pound.
The belief in witches and apparitions feems to have pre-
vailed here to a wonderful degree, about a hundred years ago*
Songs
* The farms rent from aol. to 150 L Scarcely any farm rents fo high as ios,
the acre.
t A certain proportion of grain of the crop of each farm, doe to the miller,
fcmetimes amounting to s ninth part.
606 StatiJHcal Account
Seogi are ftill fung defcriptive of the barbarous deed* tad
bloody feuds of fome former age, of which this parifh was
the fcene. The road between Glafgow and Carlifle runs
trough the parifli. It was made about 20 years ago. A*
long this road, a mail-coach pages and repafles every day.
jbttiqMUi*** — In die track of the above, there was a Ro~
van road, by the fide of which, a few large ftones, each a-
bout 5 feet high, are Hill landing, nearly at the diflancc of
* Scotch mile from one another, and, therefore, fuppofed by
fame to have been milcftones. Befide one of thefe^ Charles
II. is faid to have pafled the night in going ta England, a
little before the battle of Wprcefter. There ia. a. DnwUttl
circle almoil entire*
NtfB*
Of EJkdalcmuir. foj
NUMBER ZLIL
PARISH or ESKDALEMUIR.
(COVHTT AKD STNOD OF DCTMTRIIS, pAESBTTERT Of l*AX(U
HOLM.)
J> *i* ij/v, Mr. William B&owk.
tfaflif, Extent, Surface, Sot/, Climate, &c.
ESKD ALEMUIR takes its name from its being fituated
at the head of the Efk, or Efck, which fignifies " ft rife ;n
this river having been famous in former times for the battles
fought on its banks between the Scots and Englifh. The
length of the parifh from N. to S. is ni miles ; and its ex*
treme breadth from E. to W. about 8 miles. According to
the neareft calculation, the number of acres will be about
45,250. It was originally a part of the parifh of Wetter*
kirk ; but in 1703, was ere&ed into a feparate parifh by the
prefent name. The principal rivers are, the White and Black
Elks, which run to the fouthwaxd, and meet at the foot of
the parifla, forming the well known river of Efk, which dis-
charges
(off Stetijkal Account
charges, itfelf into the Sol way Frith. The mod remarkable
hills are, the Pen of Efkdalemuir and Loch fell. The foil is,
in general, very deep, but, owing to its high fituation, not
rery fertile. Moft part of it is mofs, covered with a coarfe
kind of grafs. Along the banks of the White Elk, however,
the hills are, in general, green, and afford excellent pafture.
From the height of fituation, and the nature of the foil, the
air is, in general, damp ; but fince the introdu&ion of drain-
ingi it is greatly improved. Property in land has changed
•ften in the memory of tjie prefent inhabitants. It common-
ly gives about 15 years purchafo. Meadow and arable grounds
rent at about 10 s. an acre. •
jigriculturi.— In former times the inhabitants were much
fonder of agriculture than they are at prefent. At a mode-
rate calculation, they ploughed twice as much as they do now*
The reafon of their leaving it off, was owing in part to the
uncertainty of the climate, but chiefly to the great demand
in late years for fheep and wool. At prefent, there are about
aoo acres in confiajit triage- Rut if the deoiand for fheep and
wool increafe as it has done for fome years paft, it is probable
that flail fewer will be in ofe ; for they think that, in many
places, it either hurts the fheep walks, or might be of more
advantage in affording them a retreat in times of ilorm. For-
merly they were wont to dock much with black cattle among
their Iheep ; but experience has taught them their error.
They render the grounds unhealthy for iheep, and introduce
difeafes. There are ftill fome, however, who retain the old
practice, from a defire to make fure of a part of their ftock ;
wet years being found to prove lefs hurtful to them than to
the iheep. They are ready, however, to acknowledge that
they are far from being profitable ; for, after the trouble of
keeping and finding for 6 or & months, they feldom gain more,
one
Gjf EjkJalcrhuir. 609
oft* Jmmup with toother, than 10s. a-head. There are at pre-
femt iri die parifb, about 445 black cattle. The number of
fcorfes wilt be about 75, befldes the yoting ones that are as
yet unfit for husbandry.
B^t the principal firodn&ion of this parifh is fheep; which
are coming daily tfiore into requeft. At the head of the pa-
rtth, they are all of the fhort kind ; but lower down* they are;
jfor the moil part, of the Cheviot breed. Sonde attempts were
made to introduce them on the higher grounds, but without
faccefs. The general opinion of the farmers is, that the
grounds are too wet and ftormy ; that the ftidden changes
hurt them more than the fhort fheep ; and that the death a-
mong the lambs ii greater. The number of ihtep at pre-
sent is about 25,440; The farmers here are particularly at-
tentive to the treatment of their flocks. They generally flock
light; that they may preferte grafs for the winter and fpring;
They have laid afide* in a great meafure, the cvxftom of milk-
ing, being of opinion that it weakens the ewes; and tnake*
them lefs able to endure the winter. The wool of both kinds
Is of good quality; and meets . with a rfeady market. It i*
generally fmeared with tar and butter ; but fome of them art
beginning to ufe the African greafe* fofteao* of the latter:
Mr. Gideon Curll in Yetbyre, fmeared, fome years ago, th£
one fide of a fheep with tar and butter, and the other with
tar and African* greafe; and found them run equally well.
The only difference was, that the wool fmearod with the tar
and greafe was yellower than the other, but became equally
white after being wafhed. The fuccefs of this experiment
made him fmear all his fhort fheep in 1791, with the greafe
inftead of butter, arid the coufequene* was; that he never had
Vol. XII. 4 H fo
•" The African greafe ft coming much Into repute. It is Id. a-ftone cheaper
this year thai butter ; has about a choppin more of oil in the ftosc when melu
H& ; runs eouall> well on the (beep, and produces better wooL
6 1 o Stati/Htal Account
fo weighty a^crop of wool as be had that year. On eakukt*
ing, he found that he had 4% more than ever he had any yeaf>
before, or than he had laft year when he again fmeared with
the butter. The wool, he aflures me, was alfo more open*
and of better quality. This year, a number of the farmers
have purchafed greafe inftead of butter. The difeafe to which
the (heep here are moft fubjeft, is the rot ; which is owing,
partly, as was faid, to the mixture of black cattle, but chiefly
to the wetnefs of the feafons and the foftnefs of the grounds *•
Population!
* Since t nave mentioned* tdts as tne principal calamity to which this parifla
is fubjed, perhaps it may not be improper, were I to add a fliort ftatcment of
bad yean, which t had from perfons of veracity and experience. In 1674, there*
were t$ drifty days in the end of February and beginning of March, O. S.v
which proved fatal to moft of the weep in this pariih. The whole fheep on
Black Elk were deftroyed, except 40 dinmoots on the farm of Weftfide. In
1739, the Cummer and harveft were very wet. This was followed by fevere
froft and faowt which came on about New Tear's day 1740, and lay without
intermilion till it was melted by the fun. On the 90th of May, the froft waf
fo intenfe, that the people were unable to caft their peats. Before harveft 1741*
oat-meal fold at 3s 3d. a-ftone ; but after harveft it fell to is. Tears were ra-
ther better, though far from being good, till 1 745, when another wet fummer
and hanreft, fucceeded by another ftorra of froft and fnow (which began 25th
January 1746, and lay for 6 weeks), dcftroytd alcnoft the whole ftocks of Efls-
dalemuir. All the farmers, excepting 6", were ruined by this (hock. Sheep*
hogs fold then from 4s. 6 d. to 5s., long wool was 5s., and (hort wool from sod*
fo a s. The fummer of 1747, was fo wet, that no hay could be preferved ; but
not fo lafting as to do much hurt to the fheep. Tears were good till 171*,
when another run of bad years commenced, which lafted till 1755. During
this period, the farmers fuffered the moft dreadful calamities; their old Iheep
were deftroyed by the inclement feafons, and' their lambs killed by froft and
{now. To this day, they are looked back upon with horror. From 1755 till
1762, years were good ; in which year, the black cattle, which were then far
more numerous than they are now, were in great want from an exc«ffive drought*
Stirks were bought that year by the Laird of Davington at Lockerbie, for 4 s.
Id. and 5s. The years 17*3 **d 1764, were very good. In 1765, both iheep
%n4 black cattle fuffered greatly from another drought, accompanied with a
{jpeeics of worms which deftroyed the graft, by cutting its roots. They were of
a green
Of E/kdakmuir. 6it
Population, &c. — According to Dr. Webfter, the number
•f fouls in 175*5, was 675* ^e population is confiderably
decieafed in the memory of the prefent inhabitants. The
reafon affigncd, is the common one of converting feveral of
the fmaller farms into a large one. From a lift taken bj the
4 H % prefent
• green colour, and about an inch long* They appeared about the end of May,
and continued till the beginning of Auguft ; when they were deftroyed by great
flocks of crows and heavy rain*. After the rains, great quantities were found
on the fides, and at the joinings of the rivulets. They were not confined to this
parifh, fcttt extended to Liddiioalef Tiviotdale, and Annandale. in X77 *, more
than onetthird of the fliecp die4 by a fevere ftorm «C froft and inow. In 1773,
owing to the great demand from Roxburgh and the. Fprrcft, which places had
fuffered more than (his parifh, long ewes and lambs fold here for ias..6d. and
13 s. ; long ewe lambs fold at 6"s. ; long hogs at 7 s. 64. and 8 s. ; long wool at
ya. and ys..6d. ; and Ihoit woet at 3 s. 6 d. In 1774, the winter was very fe-
vere, but the farmers retired with their Jheep into Annandale, and by thai
means fuftained little loft. In 17*3, the market with Amesfca.bejng; in a great
meafure (hut, (hort wool fell very low. Some of the largeft parcels were fold
Here for 20 d. a-ftone. The long wool, however, fuffered no change, becaufe «f
the ready market it always found in England. Some tofc was fuftainedthii yea*
from mocjt thaws •, but not conffderable; for the farmers retired again, into An-
nandale. In 1785, there was. one continued ftorm from the a©*th of Nqvember
till the end of March, but no lofs was felt, for the high winds always cleared
ground fufficient for the Iheep. Sheep fold very dear this year, owing to the
general demand, occafioned by the toffes of 178a and 1783, in other parts* Long
hogs fold then for 10s. and 10s. *<k ; favt ones at the fame, and diamontsfos)
ia s. and 13s. ; long wool was from 9 s. to 10s. ; and foort ditto from 3s. to 4 s.
From 1785 till 1701, feafons were excellent, and folly compensated thofe who
were not ruined by the former ones, for all their lofles. But laft year they be.
gan to turn worfe ; and this year flocks have fuffered very much. The general
opinion is, that the rent of the parifh, which is far from being in^onfiderable,
would not make up the prefent deficiency of dock. From the foregoing ft ate-
ment of facts, we have a full confirmation of a former remark, that the great-
eft calamity to which this parifh is fubjedr, is occafioned by the wetnefs of the
feafons and the foftnefs of the grounds. How far this may be remedied, comes
to be confidered afterward.
♦ That t/9 deftShH thaws % when the ground is afoi» entered wifb/now, ic-}
fir* the thaw if computed. r " ..7
6 1 9) Stotiftkat jkcomi
prefent minifter lad harveft, the population then UDOUMi tQ
pi}> ages, &c< as follow:
Male*. Wimtttes.
Below 10, ... $8 • 73
Between xo and 2Q> -69 - 73
■ r 20 and 30, -40 61
— 30Wd4*» - 33 - 36
— 40 and 50,-37 - 27
— 50 and 60, - 18 - 34
t- <o and 70, -19 - 13
— 70 and 80, - 13 » 10
a
— 80 and 90^ . 4
*$a 337*
t
The wages of men fefvants employed, either id the houfe^
pr in the fields, are about 8 1., an4 of the women fervants abou(
3 1. 5 a. Many of the fiiepherds get iheep for their wago^
There are 3 merchants, 1 miller, 3 Wrights, a fnuths, 4 on*
tors, x dogger, and 9 weavers, a of whom are apprentices.
, Rent, — The valued rent of the parilh h UtlSl ntxk^
Soots ; the veal vent about 2717 1. Sterling.
Stipend, Poor, &c. — ^The prefent church was built about
* It is proper to remark, that the population of this patilb, like that of every;
other of the kind, varies confiderably in the fummer and winter months. Per-
haps the medium population may be £90. From want of proper regifters, and^
ajfo from the practice of burying in neighbouring church-yards, it was found
*mpoffib)e to get a lift of the births, deaths, and marriages, for anjj length of
time back. By inquiring, however, at the different families during the diet*
of- examination Ja& Jfppf,it was. found, that from xft Jamaaijr i)0V W I* Ja-
nuary 1793, there were 17 born, x6 died, and 12 marj»o&
tff Efkdolemuifii 6%x
$ yia, and hat beta twice repaired. Thf atanfe was built a,
bout 10 years ago, audit ia good order. The ftipeud, 70 L
|6s. 544 d. in money, ia paid by 7 heritors ; 3 of whom re-
fide in the pariih, A procefs for augmentation is ai prefcat
Speeding. The glebe coofifts of about 34 acres, but fiooa
the aatait of the jclimate, it is pot very produ&ivt. One
year with another, it may be worth about x jL Sterling* — The
poor, before 1773* were fupplied from the weekly celleAioue
at die church, and the charity of the inhabitants* Bet thtfc
being fraud to be inadequate, the heritors, at Martinmas
<?73» »«roed to fapply the deficiency. Oh the 6th of J*,
unary 1774, they afiefied themfclve* ia the fata of 36L »»
year, to begin at Mertiames preceding, and paid qaajjteriy,
the one half by themfirives, and the other half by theiv t*»
aants, according to the Valued rent fit their dflates* This, t6
be dtfpofed of by a committee at they hm eaufe* The num-
ber of poor then taken en the lift waa *9» Since that, timey
the poor's rates Have gradually inevpstfed to 6jL i&a. The
number of poor {applied 14 thie wej *, at an eve«*ge, be*
tween so and aj.
Fmel.— The fuel coaunouly wfed » p*ats, which are to be
had ia great quantity ; but it as of tcA difficult from the we*.
peCi ef the feafbns lo get them dried* The ncaacfl coal is ia
Ganoby, 1* miles diftaat.
Jt«u£r— Formerly this pariih was much at a kfs for want
p{ proper communication from one place to another ; but now
there is an excellent road from Langholm to the head of the
moor; and another from the church to Mofik, Dumfries, aud
Lockerbie. Then* ia only a bridge wearing am the E4k{
and this is to be fet about hi a fhort time.
614 Statlftical Account
Antiquities *-l-Oxl the farm of Yetbyre, is a very complete?
encampment of an oral form, named Caftle-o*er, or Overbte.
The general opinion if, that it is a Roman camp which com*
municated with thole of Middlebie and Netherbie ; and that
the difference of form may have been occaioned by the fitua*
tion ; it being placed on the top of a hill where the fcjuare
form could not be adhered to. The name of Orerbie, or Up*
per Station,, favours this opinion. As Mr. Crawford k at
prefent taking a furvey of this parifli for his intended map of
Duinfries-Qkire, and will infert a iketch of this, among other
remains of antiquity* any farther defcriptien of it won to be
unneeeiTaTy. There is fcarcely a hill within fight pf itt on
<wftioh there is net feme vefiig* of an outer encampment.
From Gaftle-o'et, a communication by encampments of this
kind can eafily be traced down the Elk to Netherbie, on the
-one hand ; and do** the Water of Milk to Middlebie, on the
other. A Roman capfeway has elfo been traced from Nethetw
bie to near Langholm ; and there are reports that it has been
discovered at the head of this parifli near the farm-houfe of
Qver-caufeway. One thing is certain, that immediately be-
fore the houfe of that name, a pretty ftrong outer ftatien is
eafily difcernible. On the farm of Coatt, there are two cir-
cles of tied ftones, in the form of Druidieal temples, the one
entire, measuring about 90 feet ; and the other, having' a part
ef it worn away by the Elk, meafuriag about 340 feet *• la
mentioning the remarkable things in this parifli, it would be
wrong
* At for the rock on the farm of Twiglees, commonly called the Letter
Stones, from toe appearance of letters that fome think may be traced on them,
end of which they tell fi> many fabulous ftories, they are fcarcely worth notice;
P&ag evidently nothing elfe than the effecls of time on the rock, which h com*
pofed of two kinds of (tone, .the one+of which is harder than the othe^r. Fully
at ftrong an appearance of letters may be feen on the Watch-craigs, which are
* part of the lame range of rocks, and lie about a mile and a half nearer tbt
White £fe
' 0/ E/kdalcmuir. 6tf
Wtofig to pais oyer in filence, that piece of ground at the
meeting of the Black and White Eiks, which was remark*
able in former times for an annual fair that had been held
there time out of mind, but which is now entirely laid afide.
At that fair, it was the cuftom for the unmarried perfons of
both flexes to choofe a companion, according to their liking,
with whom thej were to live till that time next year. This
was called band-fqfling^ or hand in fift. If they were pleafed
with each other at that time, then they continued together for
life ; if not, they feparated, and were free to make another
choice as at the firft* The fruit of their connexion (if there
were any) was always attached to the di&ffe&ed perfon. In
later times, when this part of the country belonged to the
Abbacy of Melrofe, a prieft, to whom they gave the name
of Book i' bofom (either becauie he carried in his bofom a
bible, or perhaps, a regifter of the marriages), came from
time to time to confirm the marriages. This place is only a
'mall diftance from the Roman encampment of Caftle-o'er.
May not the fair have been firft inftituted when the Romans
refided there ? and may not the " hand-fading" have taken its
rife from their manner of celebrating marriage, ex ufu, by
which, if a woman, with the content of her parents or guar-
dians, lived with a man for a year, without being abfent for
3 nights, (he became his wife ? Perhaps, when Chriftianity
was introduced, this form of marriage may have been looked
upon as imperfefi, without confirmation by a prieft, and,
therefore, one may have been font from time to time fox this
purpofe.
Improvements.— The principal improvement for fuch a foil
as this, is draining, which has been attended to of late, and
with good fuccefs. There is, however, an inconvenience accom*
panying this kind of improvement, which, if not attended to,
render*
(Ml testified Account
venderi it in a great meafure abortive. As the foil it ctiiefiy
moft, add becomes dry bj draining; great numbers of moletf
work among the dtains and throw up a black mould, which;
if allowed to lie undifperfed, produces a coarfe kind of graft
Very unhealthy for fheep. The^next ftep, therefore, after
graining; is to catch the moles. At firft fight, this appears
an ebdlefc talk: But experience hath mown, that it is neithct
lb tedious ner fo expenfive as1 at flrft fight may appear. Some
of the farmer* bate aftually accomplished it, and find the
happicft effe&s from it; PropbfaU have been made to cleatf
the whole parifli for 3 d. the pound rent the firft five years;
and for id., or i4d. ever after; Plantations would alfo be st
great improvement, not only for beautifying the country, but
alfo for weltering the flocks in times of ftonn. There had
been a report; that two he*w roads are to be made, which
wonkl be very beneficial to this parifli. The one* is from the
fchurch (where the road from Dumfries ends) to Hawick;
either by Borthwick water; or by Glendiniiing' and Tiviot
head; By ihis, people from Hawick or Dumfries, would bo
laved the trouble of going by Wangh-hope-dale, or Eccle-
fcchan* The other is from Langholm to Edinburgh, by Efk-
dalcmutT, Tima, Grofclee,* Benbengerburn, Traquair, Inner*
leithan, and Middkton. It would be confideraUy nearer
from Langholm ; has few difficult ftcps, and a good hard
hatftnu
APPENDIX.
APPENDIX,
Containing fome Picas of additional Information, received af-
ter the Accounts of the reffeclive Pdri/hes, to which they
re/ir, were gone to the Prefs*
NUMBER XVL— P. 187.
Statistical Table of the Parijb of Kirriemuir, for 179a,
Length in Englifli miles, about aa
Breadth,— from - - a to 7
Population in 1748, ' - 3407
< ** I79a. - 4358
Inhabitants in the town m 1748, 670
* in 179a, 1584
Inhabitants in the country in 1748, 3737
. in 179 2% 2774
Number of males, • 3190
~— Females, - - ai68
— Perfqns under 10 yean of
age,
xoaa
— — under 20,
2079
r— under 50,
37i9
•— under 70,
4*47
j— under So,
4S5*
1— under 90,
- 4358
. VtL. XIL
4
Average of births for 10 years
preceding 1791, - - "Sttt
• Marriages in 1792, - - 4a
Births, - " - ' - 139
Number of families, • 1047
— houfes inhabited, - 929
— houfes built within thefe
10 years, - - iar,
— — ditto pulled down, - 45
— married perfons, - 748
— »— children, at an average,
from each marriage, - G.
twins born in the parifh for,
the laft id years, - 49
— bachelors above 50, - 13
— unmarried women above 45, 37
— widowers, - - 78
I Number
* No regular regi/ler either of marriages, or deaths, bat been kept. But
in 1784, 109 deaths are recorded. In fhrne fubfequent years, enty 48, 56, fcfra
are recorded. Nor can the regifter of haptifms be depended on : for^Bnee the
duty on regijlration was laid on, many> xtfhl&b*''0^^^*^^^ ylUu
4
6i8
appendix;
Number of widows, -
140
Members of the Eftabliined
Church, ...
4069
Seccden, about
180
Roman atholics,
a
Epifcopalians,
197
Proprietors refiding *,
3
a
Clergymen f, ♦ - -
Merchants and fhopkeepers,
30
Surgeons, - -
%
Schoolmaften, *
7
Farmer above 50c 1. a-year,
- ,i
Farmers above 1 col.
4
Ditto above 50 1.
15
Ditto under 30I. and above 10 L
t. 58
Innkeepers, -
14
Smiths, ...
ia
Mafons, -
28
Carpenters, ...
5°
'Weavers, •
Si*
Shoemakers, n - .
5«
Tailors,
3P
Butchers, - - . »
4
Millers,
*5
Bakers, -
7
Crardenen, - ' -
9
Male domeftick fervants, -
4
Female domeftick feryaajs, •
9*
Male farm fervants, -
»5P
Female fervants occasionally, • t$%
Flaxdreners, |8
Carriers, - £
Day-labourers, - - 47
Poor,---fTom - - - 15 to 3a
Capital of their funds about - 70 Ij,
Annual income, — from 70 1, to lool.
Young perfons taught englilh,
writing, and arithmetic 300 t» 40Q
Latin,-r-from . - f to 24.
At the Univerfit)% - - a
Perfons ferving in the army dur-
ing the laft war, fuppofed, - 36
Ditto in the navy, fuppofed - jfi
Number of acres in Scotch mea-
fure, fuppofed, from the belt
information, to be as follows,
exclufive of the hills and glens:
Arable, - - 66*54
Meadow, or natural graft, - 117$
Woods and plantations, - 1560
Wheel-carriages, at prefent - %
Cacts, , as%
Ploughs, - i»7
Valued rent, in Scotch
• money, - L.S104 lb 4
§ Real rent,! 792,1a Ster-
ling, about - 6700 o 4
Rents fpent in the parUh,
about * - 4)00 o *
Valu*
• Befides the above, there are/raw 40 to 50 fmall proprietors here, coiled*
feumrs, mefi of whom ref.de.
f There is in Kirriemuir, * Scotch Epifcopal Chapel; hut the clergyman re*
Jides at frefent in the pari/b of Kingpldrum.
\ A part of the parifb is divided into fmall portions, from 2 to 10 acres,
%uhich, in general, are occupied by weavers, who pay from iLto lot. of rent.
As farming is their employment only occafonally, they are numbered among,
thofe of the trade -which they follow.
§ In the aho-e fumt the rent of the town, which it between ItpoL apt
liool., if included*
±m»mx. 61$
Value of Stock.
Itumber of draught horfes, about 507, valued at • 8 1. each. Total, L. 405* o o
— faddle and carriage horfcs, 13, 30 L - -. 3^0 o o
— cattle, about - f 194% 6"i- - 11,670 o •
— iheep, about - • 3100, — — — — ios. 6"d. - itfSo o •
Total value of ftock, - L. 17*796 o o
* The value of the horfes ufed in the parifb, is from 10 /. to 30 /., when at
their prime ,* but, becauft many of tbem may be aged, tbey are valued as a~
hove.
f In the above number, are not included the cattle grazed and fed in the
graft tnelofurcs, which may amount to 6 30. Many of the cattle reared here
have been fold at 10 /., 15 /., and fame even at IS /. ; but, becaufe the greatefi
number are of an inferior quality, 6 1, has been judged to be the medium.
No. XVII.— P. 199.
The Contents of the whole pariJh amounts to 3830 acres, 3 rood*, and 4 falls,
divided as follows :
Acres. Roods* Tails*
Infield,
Folds,
Taughs,
Burnt land,
Wood,
Mofs,
Moor,
Pafture,
543
2
10
3*3
3
*
*79
1
37
V°3
l60
2
3
17
3*
*43
1
3»
1609
•
3*
306
a
3*
3830
In'explanation of the above ftatement, the furveyor obferve% firjt , That the
pound marked infield and folds, amounting to 927 acres, 1 rood, 16 falls, make
the whole of the arable ground that is in regular fields, that is, without much
4 1 a intervention
6io appendix;
intervention of baulks (patches of untitled ground between the ridges) or cairn)
(heaps of fmall ftones). And the reporter adds, that thefe are the only grounds
in the diftxict that are ever dunged ; and the folds are dunged merely by the
cattle and fheep lying in them at night, and in the middle of the day, during
the Cummer. The furveyor obferves,
2. That the faughs, in moil cafes, disjomed by baulks, do not really occupy
the quantity of ground marked for them nr the ft ate, the arable of them being
fometimes }, often about {, and even fometimes only { of the whole. The
fame, he adds, may be faid of the grtund marked burnt land, though in it
the arable, in general, bears a much greater proportion to the uncultivated.
3. Under the head of pafture, is included the ground occupied by the (mall
roads on farms, houfes, yards, dike-fides, loans (grounds around which the
hcufes of villagers are built, and which are commons), ftripes along the river
fide, where the lands lie contiguous to the Don, morafies, broom, &c.
The furveyor has corrected the Abatement given in the account of the length
and breadth of the diftrict, which the minifter gave merely upon conjecture*
According to him, the length is feme thing more than 5 miles ; as to the breadth
he co»vM not afcertain it precifely, as he furveyed only the eftate of Kenmay,
whofe mean breadth is little more than a miles. Lord Kintore's lands add at
lcaffc another mile to the breadth, confequently the whole parifli covers a fur.
face of about 7 J fquare miles. The furveyor fuppofes, that the higheit of the
hills in this parifii, are not much more than 400 feet above the bed of the river
Don. He mentions a very curious fact with regard to thofe hills. Thefe are
his words : " The ground on the top of Paradife" (one of the hills in this dis-
trict), " and all round the fummit for fome diftance down on every fide, is an
** excellent foil, but gradually becomes of an inferior quality as you approach
" the bottom ; and it is not a little fingular, that all the ground on the decfivi-
'" ties of the hills throughout the whole eftate, is of a much fuperior quality,
" to the land of the fields below, even/ on the banks of the river, a very few
•• acres of haugh onlj excepted." •
NUM.
JKEITOIZi
'»
NUMBER XXVI.— P; 335.
TABLE of Deaths, Births, and Marriages in each Month,
for 1792.
January, - i
February, - -
March, - - -
April, - - -
May, - - -
June, - - -
July, - - .
Auguft, -
September,
Oaober, - -
November,
December, - -
Total for the year,
Death*
llrthi.
Marriage*
1*
2
w
tr
I
1
S
s
|r
3
5"
5?
B
i
S
9
sr
3
sr
3
1
B
j
O
3
*
3-
B
I
3
2
1
1
I
I
3
5
2
I
-4
3
I
7
I
2
I
5
2
7
1
1
5
2
1
5
I
5
5
10
2
2
4
I
4
3
1
7
1
I
1
3
2
2
4
2
3
I
2
4
4
6
5
2
1
I
5
3
I
j
1
J
5
2
1
5
3
a
1
1
1
3
3
a
12
'3
30
32
11
1
I
»5
62
»3
► ift Quartets
► 2d Quarter*
► 3d Quarter.
4th Quarter*
NUM.
NUMBER XXXIL
Rifirring to p. 473*
tr is curious to ofcferve the oppofition between the opinion of the Highlander**
founded upon experience, and the reafoning of philofophers derived from fpe*
eolation, with refpec*k to the varying degrees of the heat and cold of the fea±
*ens in ancient and modern times. Thofe who aflert that the feafons have be-
come more mild and genial, maintain this opinion upon the authority of the
claffick writers, without conndering, that in eftimating the cold and heat of
other countries, a Greek or Roman, would naturally make their own warm
latitudes the ftandard of their feelings. In forming a fyftem, few fads ferve at
a foundation for rearing a fpecious fuperftru&urei That the quantity of water
upon the face of the globe is decreafing, has beep attempted to be proved from
the induction of experiment. The philofophers of Sweden, by measuring the
waters upon the (bores of the Bftltick, have found that they fink in the pro-
pox tion of half an inch annually. But are there no inftances in other countries^
where they rife in a fimilar proportion. During the ninth century, the Danes
in their predatory excursions, built a fort upon the Moray Frith, which is now
covered by water, but ftill vifible in its ruins when the fea is tranquil on a fc*
xene fummer day. It muft, however, be acknowledged, that the above opi*
lion of the gradual decreafe of the waters, is not a novelty in {peculation. It
was embraced, in part, by the ancient fca of the Druids, who held the de-
ftradlion and renovation of the world by fire and water alternately. The Stokfcs
alfo taught the fame do&rine, as may be feeu, by confulting the fecond book of
Cicero's beautiful Treatifc, u Dc Natura Deorum."
End of Voltjme Twelfth*
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