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k 


( 


/ 


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t»e 


STATISTICAL  ACCOUNT 


OF 


SCOTLAND. 


A 


(  ; 


/ 


tHE 


STATISTICAL  ACCOUNT 


OF 


SCOTLAND. 


STATISTJCAL  ACCOUNT 


ov 


SCOTLAND. 

P^Wl?  UP  FROM  THE  COMMUNICATIONS 


or  THX 


MINISTERS 

PIFFERENT    PARISHES. 

Bt  Sir  JOHN  SINCLAIR,  Bajit. 

I'  .  ^ 

VOLUME   ELEVENTH. 

Jf  ^tt^fi^im  Je  rtftARea  JknJbm,  caput  ffi  noji  rempublicanC* 

CicEKo,  de  Orat.  lib.  i|« 


^      V-JJ----iEDINBURGH: 

nUKTCD.  4ND  SOLD  BT  WIUIAU  CREECH  \ 

%RD  AUO  SOLD  BT  J.  OONALDSONi  A.  GVTBIIIX,  W.  LAINO,  AND  JO.  AND 

1A«  rAIUiAXKNy  BOINBURGB  \  T.  CADELL,  J.  D£B11ETT|  AND  |. 

fHWEUf|  IiONDON}    DVNLOP  AND  WILSON,  GLASGOW} 

ANGUS  AND  SONy  ABERDXBN. 


(lyDCCjXCZV^ 


CONTENTS. 


AT*.  Home. 

J.  Kirkciulbright, 
%»  Borgue,        .         .        . 

3-  Rerrick,      -         -         - 

4-  Urr,        -        .        - 

5.  Ptcfton-kirk, 

6.  Kcclefj'reig,  or  St.  Cyrus, 

7.  Foulden,        ,        -        ^ 

8.  Kilmore  and  Kilbride^  -^ 
p.  Gartley,       .         .         - 

^^o,  Kilwinning, 

21.  Coniric,      ... 

1 2.  Forbes  and  Kearn, 

13.  Cameron,       .        •        - 
^4.  Kilmaronock, 

If.  Airlj,  -  .         - 

i^  Dunnottar,     - 

17.  Eccles,        V       -        - 

18.  Dunnet,  -  -  . 
i>  Wattin,  .  -  - 
30.  Kilchoman, 

51.  Rildalton, 

52.  KiUarrow  and  Kilmeny, 

43.  Ednam,        ... 

44.  Girthon,  -  .  . 
05  Oxnan,  -  .  • 
26.  Rofemariue, 

%^,  Denino,  -  •  - 
a8.  Fintry.  -  -  - 
29    St^Mungo, 

30.  Cambraj,  or  Qmbracs, 

31.  Ring-Edward, 
yi*  Crimond, 

33  Lochalfli, 

34  Auchinlcck, 

35  Aberoethy  .  •  . 
36.  GlenbcTTie,     - 

37-  5fi«'    •    -    - 

38.  £ddertoo» 

39.  Hantly,        -         -        - 

40.  Cimock,       -        -        - 

41.  Chapei  of  Garioch, 
4a«  Inverkeithny, 

43.  AItcs,        -        -        - 

44.  Wefterkirk, 

45.  Newton,  -  -  - 
4^  Robcrton, 

47.  ToUiallan, 

48.  Cfoy, 

^^-  i^^li     "       '^^        ' 
^o.  CaUaadcr, 


PofuiationinttSS' 
1513 
697 
1051 

"P3 
I3'8 
1271 

1200 
1328 
2541 
2546 

436 
1295 

"93 
loia 

1570 
1489 

1424 


I 


Total,— 


IncTcafe,   — 


i»l79l-3 
2295 

TO50 

1354 
II76 

»7^3 

1886 
1800 
23^0 
3000 
370 
"^5 

820 

865 

1962 

1780 

1399 
1230 


5344 

387 

5^7 

760 

XX40 

598 
891 
481 

7^5 
613 
887 
1490 
9j8 

499 

780 
1900 

583 
"35' 

57' 
1691 

549 
1199 

<^5i 
1321 
1901 

lOIO 

1750 


9500 

6eo 

1730 

690 

1262 

383 
543 
640 

509 

1577 

917 

1334 

775 

I4»5 

475 

lOOO 

3600 
970 
986 

46© 

XIII 

«55 
"35 
629 

243® 
155a 
1350 

2100 


5Ma5  <^9»o«5 
5^>8a5 


—    12,209  12,200 


782 
74 

161 

492 

685 
47a 

454 


39a 
291 
164 


4"  5^ 
ai3 


159 
250 
225 
152 
721 


349 

220 

1700 

387 


106 


I109 

340 

350 


15.890 
3.^90 


Dicr. 

X 

142 

121 
181 

66 
130 
373 
147 

X94 


70 

a'5 
348 


iia 

75 

a4 


3^S 

XII 

580 

22 
349 


z 
3* 
45 
6l 

85 
89 

1X5 

I2S 
138 

I4» 
178 
189 
198 
202 
208 
214 
230 
a43 
a59 

)i8<^ 

098 

303 
308 

317 

333 

35* 

37t 

383 

59^ 

40t 

409 

42  a 

430_ 

43S 

44SL 

455 

461 

4<^7^ 
479^ 
500 

505 
508 

514 
53* 
537 
54<S 
560 
569 
574 


3690 


id^ 


ERRATA. 


P^ge   17    liae    3    /or  this  nadtheCe 

ao  — ^  37   —  V^elt  Numitr 

'  ai      col.  9-^4  —  I 

«» a4  —  aioL  300I. 

-"— —   3^  "■""  3*  —  workmanfliip  —  working  it 

40 a5    —  the  ihot 

6i ao   —  Loch  Orb  —  Loch  Oi.i 

^8 la    after  Minerals,  add    \Jc, 

-  80  — —  Pen.  —  nefcio  read  an 

104 ai    —    Coqflt  Coaft 

160 16  for  lod.  read  «.  dd. 

-  an—     T  before  hiaoSti  infert  numhet  oi 

afo a5 it  delete  Hence 

377  8   for  248  read  348 

— ^~  453  —  as    —   than  ifiliam  —  thani  filiam 
•"^  457  —3^4^^^  »nd  have  fold  at  30  years  pnrchafe  < 

upwards, 
w 480  -     ' 


.48* 


•574 


-  la   for  Clums 
•  15    —    pia 

- 16    ■—    p29 

.18    —      58 

-  atf    tmdtr  13 
.    tf Mr. 


read  Clone 
*9io 
.927 
.    60 


L  aoi 


read  Dodbr. 


57^  ^—    3  from  the  foot  of  the  large  print,  Trofecltt 

read  Trofachs. 
— ~  577 »•  for    Glenfinlas  read  Glcnfinglas 

—  585 iofi   —    fertility  are        fertility  is 

—  597  /«»  If  laL  looL  to  — .  i»l.  to  lool. 
-^—  601  line  la/l,  for  bills                     -^  bulls 

— -«6te— 25    —  pridelidtion  -^- prediledion 

— —  611  —    9    —   flmbery  —  (hrubs 

<p-*.6i4 18   f  notes.  Kefs  fignifies,  &c.     2^1/  whole  fen% 

tente  ought  U  te  above  Lenrick,  and  next  the  Rofes, 
— —  ^15    line    6  of  notes ^  for  Gairtean        read  Goirtean 

—  tfitf  -«•.  15  fQf>  fubjoa^TC  — —  fiibftantiye 


THE 

STATISTICAL  ACCOUNT 

OP 

SCdtLAND. 

P  A  R  t    XI. 

N  U  M  B  £  R   I. 
PARISH   OF   klRKCUDBRlGHt. 

(Siewartry  and  Prejbyt&ry  6/  K%rkcuclbrighk-^yn6d  of 
GaJlowayi) 

By  the  Rev.  RoBEitr  Mi^ter^  D.  Di 

Origin  of  tie  Ndtni* 

BAiTEA,  in  his  'Glojhriufn  Anti^uitatuHi  Briiahnictiriini^ 
fuppofes  that  Kirkcudbright  ^a&  known  to  the  Romans 
by  the  name  of  Benutium^, '  Its  preCsnt  nam6,  he  thitikd,  is  of 
Sazoh  original  *. — How  far  this  antiquarian  iu  well  foiitidcd 
in  his  conjeflure^  muft  be  left  to  thofe  T^ho  ai'e  beft  acquaint- 
ed with  the  Saxon  language  to  deterniine.  l^ut  whatever  was 
the  ancient  defignation  of  this  towti,  it  is  eztfemely  probable^ 
that  its  prefent  name  is  of  a  modern  date^  and  derived  from 
Vol.  XL  A  a  diflfeferit 


I  apod  atiouymum  fe^uiori  fcripttira,  et  cafu  fexto  Fttudw  dicitur, 
"  hodieque  Tittolb  (ot  pntd),  Scoto-Saxonico  Vocabulo  KirtcuJbrigBt^  et  eft  ad 
^  Ofiium  OeVae  fluminls  in  SelgoHs;  Wtere^  Britatifii  fbrfan  dixerbt  d^ 
^  ih  mhr  rit,  ^od  eft»  ahf  trajtBui  JImmhti  MfuM^L  QttlH  et  ipftim  Merm6im' 
^  tidetiir  Hritannkl  UngxA  fokti  fcriptnoL  Jh»  jf  tiw^  ^iwd  t&.  Caput  Dcfae, 
<*  tffc  Ofiinm  Aqnie*** 


a  Statifiical  Account 

a  ditferent  ortgioaL  Abont  tbc  diftancc  of  a  quarter  of  • 
mMe  froiii  tlit  boiougb»  tkere  is  fituatid  aa  old  chuctli-' 
yardt  which,  from  tioie  knmeaMrial^  has  fenred  the  pur* 
pofeof  abttrjing  groond  to  the  town,  and  a  part  of  the  land- 
ed parifli  annexed  to  it*  la  fit>rmar  tutieti  a  large  ehotck  waa 
built  in  the  midft  l>f  this  fields  but  it  is  now  fo  completely 
dec87ed»  that  there  b  not  the  fuMiUeft  Teftige  of  it  to  be  feen* 
This  church  was  dedicated  to  St.  Gnthbert ;  and  the  church- 
jaid  is  caUed  at  this  day  St.  Cutbhitn^i  cburcbyard.  The 
ccmtigttity  of  this  burying  field  t^  the  town,  together  with  the 
different  ways  of  fpeUing  Kirkcadbrightt  in  fome  old  autheacie 
writings,  as  Kilculbrigtf  KiricmJBmrgh^  KHrMrU^We.  iiicliaea 
us  to  think,  that  whatever  might  have  been  its  ancient  de^ 
fignatKMv  its  prefeat  name  is  derircd  from  St.  Cnthbetti  m 
honour  of  the  tutelary  faint  of  this  place.  Hence  Kilcud- 
bright,  or  Kirkcudbrigfit^  fignifies  die  kirk  or  church  of  St.. 
Cnthbcrt. 

ErtOiom  and  £»/Mit.— JIHiet  is  now  called  Kiricuibrighe 
Pari/b^  formerly  confided  of  3  fepaiate  and  diftiaft  pariihes  f 
which  are  marked  in  the  ancient  Tiduation  roll  of  the  ftewattry 
by  the  names  of  Dwnrod^  Gaitwt^^.  and  KtrkcudbrigbU  The& 
names  are  ftill  retained;  and  the  diflferent  church-yards^  whieb 
arc  occupied  at  this  day,  as  the  bufyiag  grounds  of  the  inha* 
bitants  of  thefe  parifhes,  fuf&ciently  fiiew,  that  they  were  once 
feparated,  and  disjoined  from  each  other.  The  union  of  thefe 
pariihes,  or  rather  the  aane^tion  of  Duneod  and  Galtway  ta 
.the  pariih  of  Kirkcudbright^  appears  to  have  taken  place  about 
130  years  ago. — ^The  burgh  is  thefeatof  thepreftjteryr  The 
figure  of  tlie  pariih  approaches  nearly  to  an  oblong  iqoare, 
.  and  ftittches  from  N«  to  S.  The  town,  or  burgh,  lies  on  the 
W.  and  projeds  a  little  on-  that  iuie  of  the  C^uarc  The  length' 
af  the  pariih  is  7  Britiih  miles :  its  breadih  from  3  to  4: 

Tter 


Th«  geodTBl  form  of  it»  tod  the  diftria%  with  which  it  is 
furroanded,  will  appear  frooa  ^  aiiiicxed  map.  The  pariQ^ 
is  moOly  bi%,  ?i|4  has  bttt  l^is^  e^t^i^^d  jdain.  The  hUlSg^ 
however,  do  i(ipt  riie  yttf  high  ;  t^  dp  they  ti;rmi^ate  at  die 
top  ia  wqtlky  ppints.  They  flope  gxad^s^yt  and  form  «  vc^y 
obtofe  ai)^^  with  the  plaifi.  Along  the  .fides  of.  the  hills, 
aoid  c^reo  op  ^  tfa^ir  higheft  fgnw^t^,  tj^  ^rq  f/um^J  ivrahle. 
Sodi  as  are  not  abomid  with  excdleat  paftiir^  ^Ot  f«&e«>, 
qaently  the  deepcft  foil  is  to  be  found  at  the  fop  of  the  hill* 
This  perhaps  oi^y  be  owing  to  the  l^r,  operating  more  power- 
fully upon  the  high  laodst  wbidi  are  ip^re  ea^ed  to  its  in* 
floencea  and  gradually  diflcdviDg  the  rotten  rocks^  pf  wbicU 
the  tops  of  d)eic  bills  arf  here  chiefly  compo£e4i  a^^  by  tbia^ 
roiepm  fot^i;  a  (teejipr  fpil» 

J'mLer-The  foil  of  this  pariQi  ii|  chie^y  of  |wq  triads,  wet. 
and  dry*  Tfai^  wet  foil  is  ooca^ni:4  by  a  bar^t  qold  till, 
wbidi  is  generally  fomd  ifpoQ  tbefe  biUs  \  whoGe  (iirface  is 
fmoptb,  and  lies  al|pnt  6  iacb^9  below  the  fupcrficies.  The 
tiU,  by  rttainiog  the  waier,  proyes  highly  detdmepittf  to  yen 
getation*  Manure,  in  this  ciip,  is  of  little  or  no  ofe.  Foe 
fach  fo3s,  after  baTii^  been4^vere4  with  a  fnfficient  quantitj 
of  mark,  lime  or  iea  ibelU^  prove  rery  ongrateful,  either  iyi 
the  prodq^on  of  eom  or  of  grab*  The  dry  foil,  which  is 
the  moft  general,  confifts  of  a  light,  hszely  earth,  with  a  Ourp 
gravelly  bottom.  This  kind  6[  foil  is  about  6i  inches  deep  | 
and,  srtien  covered  with  any  of  the  former  manures^  and  pro- 
periy  treated,  k  inakes  a  fluoft  apiple  return  $  efpedally  if 
the  ieabna  are  warm,  and  attended  with  freqti^eot  fliowerK 
The  foil  in  this  cafe  is  aftonifliingly  produdive^  l^th  of  gralis 
sad  corn.  Although  the  lands,,  when  uot  oreccropp^,  pro^ 
dooe  ezoelleot  grain,  yet,  from  the  peculiar  quality  of  the 
grafii  that  grows  herey  the^  axa  particularly  ^spted  for  fat- 

A  a  tening* 


4  Statl/tkal  AeCBunt 

tenfng;-'  Nbljarifli  in  Scotland  freSs  cattle  richer,  or  brttef. 
There  are  at  leafl  x,oeo  acres  of  rich  pafture  grounds,  which 
wlU  feed'  as  tnanjr  bullocks  or  heifers,  laid  oa  m  Maj,  and 
taken  off  in  November,  from  20  to  30  ftones  a  piece.  And^ 
if  they  are  kept  to  the  proper  age,  (5  or  6  years  old),  upon 
the  different  flock  farms,  thej^  will' attain  from  40  to  70  ftone 
iveight.    'better  beef,  in  point-  of  fatnefs  and  quality,  is  no 

where  to  be  found. 

•     .    ■  • 

Climate;  \Se. — Notwithftanding  the  wind  blows  chiefly  from 
the  S.  and  S.  W.,'and  confequently  expofes  this  country  to 
frequent  (hewers,  and  fometimes  to  long  continued  rains ;  yet 
the  climate,  upon  the  whole,  is  neither  damp  nor  unhealthy. 
This  is  owing  to  the  nature  of  its  fliallow,  hazely  foil ;  which, 
by  admitting  the  rain  to  pafs  eafily  through  its  furface,  quicklj 
atbforbs  and  fucks  it  up.  Unlike  to  deep,  clayey  grounds  ; 
which|  by  long  retaining  the  falling  fhowers  upon  their  fur- 
face,  permit  the  rays  of  the  fun  again  to  exhale  them.  Hence 
the  air,  impregnated  with  a  confiant  fucceffion  of  watery  par- 
tides,  is  kept  perpetually  damp,  which  perhaps  occafions 
thefe  rheumatic  and  confumptive  diforders,  that  are  not  often 
to  be  met  with  here.  In  proof  of  this,  there  are  no  epidemi- 
*ekl  diftempers  peculiar  to  this  country.  In  general,  the  cli- 
mate is  remarkably  healthy,  and  people  often  attain  to  a  Tcry 
great  age.-*Inoculation  is  univetfally  ptadifed,  and  with  great 
iuccefs. 

Springsu^^ThcTe  a^e  no  mineral  fprings  within  the  parifii, 
of  much  confequence.  A  chalybeate  water,  mixed  with  a 
little  fulphur,  has  lately  been  difcovered  in  a  field  adjoining  t» 
the  bmgh;  but  as  neither  its  ftrength  nor  virtues  have  hither- 
to been  well  afcertained,  nothing  decifive  can  be  faid  con- 
cerning it.  The  town  is  fupplied  with  excellent  fpring  wa- 
fer, 


cf  Kiricudhrigbt.  g 

ier,  eCMivtyed  ia  -leaden  pipes,  from  ^a  quarter  of  a  ffiik's 
dtlltnce.  This  Tcry  ofeful  work,  nvbich  coft  upwards  of 
500L  Sterling,  was  executed  in  1164*  One  half  of  tbeez« 
pence  was  defrayed  bj  the  burgh,  and  the  other  half,  by  pri  - 
vate  fnbfcribers  :  A  great  undertaking  at  the  time,  confider- 
ing  the  revenues  of  the  town  were  but  fmall,  and  the  opulence 
of  the  individuals  not  great. 

farms^  Produce^  Improvement^  ^r.— -The  whole 

landed  property  is  divided  into  40  farms,  which,        S€aeb  atra. 
upon  an  accurate  meafurement«  contain  -  12,325 

From  a  laboured  calculation,  made  from  8  dif* 
ferent  farms,  promifcuoufly  taken,  the  contents 
of  which  were  exafily  afcertained,  the  propor- 
tion of  arable  to  pafiure  land  was  as  4  to  x. 
Hence  the  unarable  19        ^        -         -        -  3»o8i. 

Thefe,  dedu&ed  from  the  total  number  of  acres, 

leave  of  arable  ground         -         -         -        -  9*^44 

Of  this  quantity,  one  fourth  is  annually  in  tillage,  a,3 1 1 


Of  arable,  there  is  annually  in  pallurage,       « 
To  this  add  the  unarable  parts, 

Kemain  in  hay  and  pafiurage  yearly, 
^bout  one  fpurth  of  the  ground  in  grain  is  an- 
nuaHy  fown  out,        -        .        - 


As  every  acre  in  tillage  yields,  upon  an  ave- 
rage, at  lead  33  Wincheiler  bufhels,  there  is  B^peh, 
produced  annually,          ....             76,163 

Of  this  quantity,  the  fiirmer  referves,  at  an  ave- 
rage, two  thirds  to  fupport  his  family,  feed  his 
borfes,    and  fow  his  ground.— Remain   for ' 

jp»le» -        r  a5»4ax 

Fotatoe 


Potatoeflf  at  an  average,  5  bdU  par  farm,    «    -    %%9  ImUk 

Wool,  at  the  fate  of  3  ftooca  p«r|6rm,    *    ^    -    tag  &mm%m 

Milk,  bmter  aod  cbeefip,  gt  lU.  per  ^w.     •     •    3 aoL 

» 
The  fpecies  of  grain,  that  is  fown  in  the  parifli,  coofiits  of 

bear,  barley,   and  oats,  chieflj  the  latter.     Thej  are  all  veiy 

good,  though  not  fo  weighty  as  what  is  produced  upon  deeper 

foils.     Although  wheat  is  but  little  cultivated  in  this  part  of 

the  country,  it  is  however  the  opinion  of  the  moft  expcriencred 

farmers,  that  the  foil  is  equal  to  the  produdion  of  any  kind 

of  grain  \  being,  though  light  and  thin,  exceedingly  gracious. 

Yqt  manuring  the  land,  marie  is  here  chiefly  ufed.   It  is  found 

more  or  lefs  fcattered  over  the  whole  pari  lb,  in  beds,  from  2X 

feet  thick  to  3  inches,  and  at  various  depths  below  the  fur^- 

face.     Lime  too  is  brought  from  Whitehaven,  and  employed 

by  fome  farmers  for   meliorating  their  land.     But  befides 

marie,  which  is  found  within  the  parifli,  there  is  alfo  an  inez- 

bauftible  fiore  of  ihelU  lying  along  the  coafty  which  are  prin*- 

cipally  ufed  for  enriching  tb^  grounds  that  lie  condgoous 

to  it. 

Ca///^.— -The  average  number  ip  each  fiiradi  ^i4  die  total 
number  in  the  pariih  arej  as  follows : 

Average  number,  in  each,  of  borCes,      *      j     Total, 
"        milk  cows, 

■  fale  cattle, 

— — — — -^— ibeep,     - 

— — '  '  calves, 

■■  year  olds, 

Xn  all,     -    ^    .    •    3,x<i9 

Rents  and  Proprietors. — The  whole  parifh  is  rented,  at  an 
average,  at  143.  per  acre.     Some  fieldsi  however,  of  the  beft 

land 


'  tf  RrkcuStigbt.  ^ 

kHl  tite  kt  At  a  guineas  t>er  aterot  The  fanner  drpeods,  for 
At  payment  of  bis  rent,  chiefljr  opoD  the  iale  of  his  Mlccka 
and  heifera  ^  'W^ieh  ate  aanoally  teat  xo  the  Eoglifli  market^ 
about  3  jeara  old,  atid  feich  escelleat  ptioea.  But  ibould  the 
demand  lor  GftUeway  cattle  and  (keep  at  anj  time  oeafe,  in  the 
fimthem  pans  of  the  united  kmgdMn,  or  flvovM  liMr  prioea 
ftU,  for  a  few  jears  faccei&velj,  the  farmer  mad  infallibly 
become  bankrupt ;  for  he  has  little  or  no  depaadeoce  upon  the 
lUe  of  his  gmm,  whichy  fen- the  moft  part,  turns  out  toaogfeaa 
ecoomit.  From  the  thinnefs  of  the  population,  a^oanfiderabk 
qoantity  of  the  gram  produced  oanaot  be  eonfumed  in  thia 
cooatiT'.  Hcnee  it  mull  be  font  coaft^ways,  to  the  Eaglilh 
iMtf ket»  or  to  Greeiiodc  and  die  weft  of  Scotlaoid.  But  aa 
Aia  ia  attended  with  confideraUe  expeoee,  and  bcfideadependa 
apoB  a  variable  market,  it  does  not  always  make  that  profit- 
able retem,  which  the  farmer  thinks  he  had  a  right  to  ei^peft. 
It  is  lor  this  reafon,  that  proprietors,  when  gmnitog  kafea  of 
their  fitfms,  geoesiUy  eftimale  the  valoe  ef  the  rent,  from  die 
ttnmber  of  ike^  and  cattle  which  tiie  £urm  wiU  fted,  and  not 
froaa  the  quantity  of  grain  which  it  will  produce."  Accord- 
tog  to  the  aaoient  valuation  roll,  the  free  rent  of  die  parifk 
waa  6oa9l.  t||  id.  Scotch,  Its  prefent  oeot  is  morn  than 
6,oooL  SterLog.  There  are  veiy  few  prnprietcnrs  in  this  eK^> 
teafive  pariA.  The  Ease,  of  Ssuurc  poflefirs  above  fiire 
£xtba  of  the  wbols^property* 

F&r^  7r##j.— ^efidea  thofe^rarioiis  ufidEoI  improvement 
in  faolbandry,  wfaidi  aire  carrisd  on  in  the  parifli,  thefe  which 
are  alio  adapacd  &r  oraament,  as  well  as  ostilicy^  ought  not 
ID  be  omitted.  The  fiarl  of  Selkirk  has  planted,  widr  great 
tafte  aad  judgment^  ilnretal  hsndred  acres,  with  vacinha  kinds 
of  foreft  trees,  fuch  as  oaks,  beeches,  aihes,  elms,  birches,  chef* 
autsjlycamores,  hornbeams,  rowans,- walnuts,  larches,  together 

with 


8  Statiftiial  Accouni 

with  diiEerent  forts  of  pines  j  as  Scotch,  bUutk  «94  whit^  wid 
Americaa  fpruce,  We^mottth,  iUver,  and  balm  of  Gtlead« 
He  has  alio  reared  a  aarfcry,  confiftiog  of  1 5  acres,  of  grouad  \ 
which,  contains  more  than  a  million  of  plauils,  all  in  a  moCL 
thriving  condition,  and  foon  to  be  tranfplanted  for  cheriihing 
and  beaati^ring  various  other  fields. 

'  Trmt  7m/.-*His  Loidfliip  has  llkewife  laid  out  an  extea<« 
five  orchard  of  fruit  trees,  for  die  purpofc  of  eftablilhing  a 
iinall  ordiard  at  every  farm  houfe.  A  few  years  ago,  there 
was  not  a  fingle  fruit  tree  to.be  feen  in  any  part  of  the  parifli, 
except  what  grew  about  Su  Mar  ft  IJle.i  Same  veftigea  of 
old  orchards,  icattered  up  and  down,  are  ftill  to  be  traced  1 
but  neither  trees  nor  fruit  are  any  where  to  be. found.  They 
muft  have  gone  into  decay  near  a  century  ago.  A  great  many 
indigenous  plants  are  to  be  found,  along  the  (bore,  and  in 
the  environs  of  Kirkcudbrightt  and  efpecially  around  St. 
Mary's  lile,  which  would  afford  much  entertainment  for  the 
curious  botanift ;  but  as  they  are  all  fo  well  delcribcd  by  the 
Kcv.  John  Liohtfoot,  in  his  Flora  Scotica^  a  repetition  of 
chem  is  unneceffary.  In  his  Lordihip*s  garden,  at  St.  Mary's 
lile,  there  are  6  hot  houfes,  befides  forcing,  frames,  all  upon  a 
new  conftruftion,  which  contain  various  forts  of  fruits  and 
exotics.  Fruit  trees,  laid  horizontally  upon  a  baok|  in  place 
of  a  wall,  have  lately  been  tried  by  his  Lordfliip*s  gardener, 
and  have  anfwered  remarkably  well.  In  fiiort,  from  the  va* 
rious  improvements  already  made,  and  ftill  carrying  on#  the 
face  of  this  country  will,  in  the  courfe  of  a  few  years,  be  totally 
changed^  It  will  affume  a  moft  beautiful  appearance.  The 
moft  charming  landfcapes  will  ftrike  the  eye,  and  afford  de^ 
ligbtful  fiibjefis  £pr  the  poet's  fancy,  and  die  painter's  pencil. 


Jtnvrr  09d  lSllk*^Varioiu  little  ftmitoii  which  abouad 
with  tr99l99  and  •iher  fmill  fifh,  flow  iii  m  iticandetiBg  couHb 
tbrofigh  thia  pariiht  and  afford  excellent  amufeme&t  for  fach  ai 
#re  fond  ^  angling.  But  the  onlj  river  worth  noticing,  botti 
on  aooonnt  of  its  large  fize,  and  its  eztenfive  uCefulncfs,  in 
the  Dw.  ^led  bj  the  ancient  Romans  Diva.  It  riles  out 
«f  Loch  ]>ee,  which  is  fitnatcd  at  the  bottom  of  thofe  hills| 
Ihat  feparate  Ajrihire  from  Galloway.  After  running  manj 
miles  in  a  ferpentine  couricv  and  receiving  the  water)  of  tht 
gxeat  river  Ktn^  it  flows  a  confideiaUe  way,  till  it  reaches 
the  par^ih  of  Kiritcudbright ;  then  runs  alongft  the  weft  fide, 
from  N.  E.  to  S.  W.  and  empties  itfdf  into  the  bolwajr 
Frith.  The  river  Dee  abounds  with  exqellent  falmon,  iea 
froou  and  hjrlines.  The  falmon  are  fold  here  at  different 
prices,  from  6d.  to  ad.  per  pound.  They  feldom  begin  to 
run  tin  the  month  of  March,  and  then  appeat  only  iu  fmall 
numbers.  In  May  and  June  they  fwim  up  in  flioalsi  with 
the  tide,  and  are  caught  in  great  numbers.  They  are  fup- 
pofed  to  be  in  the  higheft  perfeftion  in  the  month  of  June, 
and  beginning  of  July.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  richnefs  of 
the  lalmon  caught  within  the  tide  mark.  Their  flelh,  when 
boiled,  is  generally  intermixed  with  a  white  curd,  which 
feels  hard ;  but  if  the  fifli  are  kept  for  a  day  or  two,  this  curd 
diflfolve^  into  oil.  To  fuch  as  are  unaccuflomed  to  eat  falmoU  ' 
till  ieveral  days  after  they  ate  taken,  the  diflblved  curd  ia 
moft  agreeable.  Sea  trouts  make  their  appearance  in  the  ri- 
ver, during  the  month  of  June  ;  the  hirlides  in  July^  and  thi 
grilles  in  AugulL 

Fifi0rUs.n-TYke  iflieries  within  this  parifh  are  let  fot  abont 
40ol.  per  annum^  and  belong  t6  th^  Earl  of  Selkirk,  Mr. 
MukraT,  and  the  town  ot  tiirkcudbright.  Mr.  Munay*a 
fifbery  lies  in  tha  upper  part,  both  abOvc  the  tide  mark,  and 

Y9U%1.  B  tmmirdiauljr 


1  o  Stati^tcal  Accqunt 

immediately  where  it  flows.  One  half  is  within  the  parifli  of 
Tungland,  and  the  other  in  the  parifli  of  Kirkcudbright.  Al- 
though it  is  commonly  called  the  Tungland  fiflicry,  yet  all 
the  grounds  contiguous  to  the  river,  on  the  Kirkcudbright 
fide,  belong  to  the  Earl  of  Selkirk  f-  The  fifliery  below  is 
carried  on  by  what  are  called^/^  yairs.  They  are  13  in  num- 
ber; one  half  adapted  for  the  flood,  and  the  other  for  the 
ebb  tide.  Some  belong  to  the  town,  but  the  greater  part  to 
the  Earl  of  Selkirk.  J  hey  are  rented  at  about  locl.  The 
leffee  of  the  town's  fifliery  is  reftriftcd  by  his  tack,  from  fell- 
ing his  fifh  to  any  but  the  inhabitants  of  the  burgh,  and  is 
not  allowed  to  fell  them  higher  than  3d.  per  pound,  even  al 
the  earlied  feafon.  In  the  month  of  June  h6  mull  fell  the 
l^ilmon  at  2d.,  and  the  grilfcs  at  ifd.  per  pound.  This  was  a 
very  hun.ane  regulation  of  the  mJigiflrates  and  town  council, 
for  the  benefit  of  the  poorer  citizens,  who^  by  this  indulgence, 
participate  a  little  of  the  revenues  of  the  burgh. 

The  nunnber  of  falmon,  grilfes,  and  white  t routs,  that  are 
annually  caught  in  the  doaghs  or  cruives,  in  the  upper,  or 
Tungland  fifliery,  is  almofl^  incredible.  They  are  all  fliipped 
for  the  Englifli  market,  Liverpool  and  Whitehaven,  aild  fetch 
excellent  prices,  efpccially  in  the  early  fifliing  fejfon.  But 
the  method  of  filhing,  practifed  by  the  fiflitrmen,  in  the  up. 
per  works,  is  moft  dellruftive  to  the  lower  filherics.  The 
dvaghs  are  raifed  fo  high,  that  fcarce  a  fi Ih  can  get  over,  unlefs 
there  is  an  immenfe  fwell  in  the  river  Dee,  which  feldom  hap- 
pens  during  the  fifliing  feafon. 

The  fpars  alfo,  which  are  fixed  acrofs  the  river,  in  thefc 
doaghs,  to  prevent  the  fifli  from  getting  up,  inftead  of  being 

perpendicular, 

I  A  conCJcr%Uc  part  of  thlt  fiihery,  called  the  Fand-Uit'^iihiR  the  tide  matk^ 
was  alfo  unqueftionally,  in  former  times,  the  jropcrty  of  hi>  Lordlhip.  How- 
ever, at  prcfcnt,  he  enjoys  no  part  of  thig*fifttTy.  By  a  gradual  and  iniquitouK 
encroachment  upon  hit  righf,  this  parfr«f  the  fifhety  was  un]uft4y  wrcftodfrotu 
him. 


of  Kiricvdbrigbt.  1 1 . 

perpetidiculari  are  placed  horizootallj,  and  not  near  the  diT- 
tance  from  one  another  which  Che  law  direfts.  Neither  is 
there  any  Saturday's  Jlap^  (opening  of  the  works),  obferved 
during  the  filhing  feafon,  by  which  nxeans  not  a  fingle  iifli  can 
get  up  till  the  legal  time,  26th  Auguft,  expires.  And  even, 
after  it  expires,  thefe  deftru&ive  works  are  kept  up  for  3  or 
4  weeks  fuccefUvely.  Hence  not  only  the  fiflberies  below,  but 
alfo  the  property  of  thofe  gentlemen,  who  have  confiderable 
eftates  higher  up  the  river,  and  by  their  charter  have  a  right 
to  fifli,  are  eiTentially  injured.  Some  people  here  pretend 
to  fay,  that  the  fame  number  of  fifh  are  always  found  to  re- 
turn annually  into  the  river,  notwith (landing  the  immenfe 
quantities  which  are  yearly  taken'.  But  this,  it  may  be  pre- 
fumed,  is  juft  as  abfurd,  as  if  one  fhould  aifert,  that  though 
you  weie  to  deftroy  40  out  of  50  breeders,  you  would  ftill 
have  as  many  produced  next  feafon  from  the  ic,  as  you  had 
the  preceding  year  from  the  50  breeders. 

Harbour. — The  harbour  of  Kirkcudbright  is  fituated  on 
the  N.  of  the  Solway  Frilh,  about  10  leagues  N.  E.  of  the 
Iflcof  Man,  and  7  leagues  N.  W.  of  St.  Bee's  Head,  in  Eng- 
land. It  is  a  fafe,  natural  harbour,  with  good  anchorage, 
and  fliclter  from  all  winds.  There  is  no  harbour  in  the  S» 
coaft  of  Scotland  fuperior  to  it ;  but,  being  a  dry  harbour,  it 
IS  fit  only  for  fuch  veiTcIs  as  can  take  the  ground.  At  the 
mouth  of  it  there  is  an  ifland  called  Zutle  Rojs.  The  en- 
trance between  this  and  the  £.  fhore  is  about  ii  mile.  It  is 
fafe  and  bold  on  both  fides.  About  200  or  300  yards  N.  E"^ 
of  this  ifland  lies  the  proper  road  for  veffels  to  anchor,  where 
they  ride  in  perfcft  fafcty,  unlefs  the  wind  fets  in  from  S.  W. 
by  S.  to  S.  S.  E.  J  and  even  then,  if  it  does  not  blow  a  very 
hard  gale.  In  this  road  there  is  a  depth  of  16  feet  at  low  water, 
and  40  at  high  water,  the  rife  being  about  24  feet.     At  halt 

B  2  a  mile^ 


1%  StatyHcal  Aectmnt 

%  mile^s  diftance,  within  Little  Rob,  oo  the  W.  fide  of  th« 
ifland,  there  is  a  fmali  hut  bh  harbour,  called  Bakuaigan 
Bay.  At  4  hours  flood,  there  is  a  depth  of  12  or  s  j  feet 
water  for  veflels  to  ride  iui  either  at  fpriog  or  neap  tides ; 
liefides  mooring,  and  fufficieat  rocuQ  for  ao  Urge  vrflkls  to 
lie,  on  a  fqft  clay  bottom. 

Bay. — ^About  al  miles  within  Little  Rtfls,  On  th^  £.  fide, 
there  is  a  large  bay,  called  T^orr^i  Lake^  or  Manx-man^s  Laii^ 
where  more  than  1 00  large  veflels  maj  lie  in  fafoiy,  upon  a 
foft  mud  or  clay  bottom.  At  4  hofurs  flood,  there  is  a  depth 
pf  Z4  or  x6  feet  water  in  this  bay,  either  in  fpring  or  nea^ 
tides.  Two  perches  are  placed  on  the  right  hand,  and  one 
$zed  at  the  point  of  St.  Mary's  Ifle,  to  diieA  veffi^ls  to  fleer 
|n  without  danger. 

J9ar,  t/^^— Off  St.  Mary's  Ifle  there  runs  f  bar,  nearly  aerofs 
the  harbour.  At  ord^iary  fpring  tides  the  depth  is  about  ao 
feet  water  \  and  veflels  may  either  pals  over,  or  run  chann^  1^ 
Ctfurfe  clofe  in  with  the  rocks  on  the  S.  fliore,  according  to  th^ 
•^ind  and  time  of  the  tide^  After  paffing  the  bar,  the  channel 
Ibecomes  narrow  \  audit  is  neccflary  that  large  veflels  fliould  have 
aleading  wind  to  carry  them  up  the  river.  Upon  the  fliorei  dofis 
^y  the  town,  there  is  a  fine  flielving  beach,  where  the  flsipping 
lie,  or  ^de  at  anchor  in  the  channel.  Here  the  dfpth  is  8  feet 
at  low  water,  and  a  8  at  high  water.  The  rife  being  about 
to  feet,  the  river  is  navigable  to  Tungland ;  that  is,  a  mile^ 
fbove  the  town.  There  is  fuflicient  water  fpr  veflTds  of  aoo 
tons,  though  it  is  but  feldom  that  any  except  coafiing  floops 
^cend  fo  high.  The  diilano^  from  the  entrance  into  the  har« 
^ur,  up  to  the  town  of  Kircudbright,  is  5  miles ;  and  the 
frideft  part,  at  th^ppint  of  St.  Mary's  Ifle,  ia  s  mile  and  3 


$f  KirkuSngbt.  13 

hghuHouft  propofed. — In  flormy  weather,  when  veffels 
oo  neither  keep  tlie  fea,  nor  clear  the  land*  thb  harbour  is 
the  heft  in  the  S.  coaft  of  Scotland  for  {helter,  and  on  that 
tccoiint  b  much  frequented  in  winter.  But  the  entrante  in- 
to it  being  narrow,  a  firong  tide  fetting  right  acrofs,  and  no 
light*houle  tO  iittSt  thetn»  it  is  dangerous  to  run  for  it  in 
the  dafk,  and  engage  with  a  lee  fhore.  Many  fatal  accidents 
happen  bjr  ihips  mii&ng  the  harbour,  and  being  driven,  either 
into  Wigton  Bay,  or  on  the  banks  of  the  Solwaj  Frith.  The 
iflaad  of  Little  Rofa  affoids*  an  excellent  fituation  for  a  light- 
houle.  One  might  be  ere&ed  there  at  a  fmall  ejq^ence,  and 
kept  Dp  on  moderate  terms.  It  would  be  ot  the  utmoft  ntU 
lity  to  all  ihspping,  and  particularly  to  (Irangeci,  in  the  hour 
of  danger.  Were  government  apprifed  of  the  great  benefit 
that  would  refttlt  from  this,  it  is  to  be  hoped  they -would 
thuik  the  matter  worthy  their  attention,  and  caufe  a  light* 
houle  to  be  creded  at  the  public  ezpence* 

Sea  Wart. — ^The  harbour  furniflies  diUby  tangle,  and  eom« 
mon  fea-weed.  A  confiderable  quantity  of  the  latter  is  cut« 
made  into  kelp,  and  fold  for  the  foap  and  bottle  manufa&oriea* 

Sea  Fijb  ami  JFatii/r.— Befides  lalmon,  fea*trouts  and  hirlinest 
the  following  iea  £ih  are  to  be  found  in  the  harbour :  cod, 
which  are  fold  at  i|d«  per  pound  $  fcad,  called  here  lyth  or 
Ijd;  Uochan,  mackerels,  whitings,  flounders,  foles,  Ikate,  eels, 
iaad-eela,  dubbocks,  orcodlocks;  (hrin.ps;  lefierfpottedfliarks, 
called  here  dog-^*^  angel  iharks  *  \  bull's  heads,  or  nuUer'a 
thumbs;  poipoiles,  and  herrings  f.    The  fliell  fiih  are,  rock 

oyAefBt 

*ODe  tff  tikele,  tAtn  bft  fittiltticlr, aieafufed  5  feet  inleBfib. 

f  Hm  grett  flambar  pf  herrtng  fry  found  in  this  harbour,  afford  a  ftroog 
pcfiuoptioa,  thothcfriaflieco&lhccoaftiatliefropttftilMii  hatdteypaft 
MalliacgMM. 


14  Statlftkal  Account 

ojfters^  lobdcrs,  cockles,  mufcles,  wilks,  buckieS)  limpets,  and 
crabs. — ^The  fea  fowls  are  barnaile  ^cefc,  curlews,  herons,  red 
legged  crows  or  daws,  fand  pipers,  called  here  land  trippers^  fea 
pies,  wild  ducks,  fcalc  ducks,  teals,  pufHns,  fcarfs,  or  black 
duckers,  herring  gulls,  graj  gulls,  winter  gulls,  or  maws,  com- 
xnon  fea  maws,  black  caps,  or  fea  crows,  terns,  &c. 

.  Population* — The  number  of  fouls  in  the  pariQi  of  Kirk- 
cudbright, as  taken,  with  great  accuracy,  at  different  vifita- 
tions,  both  in  the  town  and  country,  will  appear  from  the 

following 

rOFULATION  TABLE. 


In  1786 

\d  179  a. 

Males, 

Fern. 

To/af. 

Males. 

Fern.       TUal, 

Jnilictnrgh,         -          -          389 

75* 

1341 

809 

83Z         I64I 

lb  ditto,  */!«  1771, 

- 

"53 

- 

-       1153 

Increafe  in  the  burgh  in  15  years. 

- 

188— 

—In  %i 

year*,    -     4S8 

la  the  country,         -                  %S% 

«95 

577 

310 

344          654 

In  the  whole  parifli,           -          871 

847 

1918 

1119 

1 1 76       2295 

ladiito^4«M.  1755, 

- 

ts^$ 

- 

-         15IJ 

iDcrcafe  in  the  f  arlfh  in  31  years*, 

- 

4C5- 

—  Inj7ycan,    -     yti 

Number 

*  There  is  every  rcafon-  to  belieTe,  that  the  country  parifb  of  Kirkcudbright 
vas  much  mi  re  pcpulous,  ahoiit  J30  years  ago,  than  it  is  at  prcfcnt.  In  the  ja- 
rilhcs  of  Dunrod  and  Galtway,  now  annexed  to  Kirkcudhright,  fonie  veftiges  of 
tillages  may  flill  be  traced  ;  and  from  good  information,  obtained  from  old  peo- 
ple iiilVallte,  the  inhabitants  of  thcfe  villages  were  very  numerous.  The  caufe 
of  this  depopulation  muft  be  traced  back  to  the  time  of  the  civil  wart,  in  the 
reign  of  Cuarlrs  I.  and  Cromwell,  the  ufurper.  J«>hn,  3d  Lord  Kiikcud- 
bright,  who  poffeficd  almoft  the  whole  property  of  this  cxtenHve  parilb,  to<.k  up" 
arms  for  the  king,  raifcd  a  regiment  of  foot  upon  his  own  charges,  (levied  chiefly 
from  amobg  his  tenant.s  and  vaifals),  a»d  carried  them  over  to  Ireland,  front 
yheccc,  it  may  be  prcfumed,  ytr-^  few  ever  returned.    Towards  the  end  of  lafl 

ceatuf}', 


iif  Kirkcudbright.  i^ 

Nufflher  oC  married  peifoDs,    •  503  NiuHberof  ftfrgeons,           -       '    1 

wkiowcrs,      -      -.3*  '            — mcnfcivants,        •       4^ 

wldowi,         -         -       9»         worn  in  ditto,        -       xaj 

marriages  In  1792,   -    14  — ^— — — ^"apprentices,      -       -      45 

bifths  in  do.             -     65  journeymen,         -         3^ 

de>th&t^n  do.         -       24  -^- fliip  carpenters,     '-      14 

■    twm>  bom  in  1789<        a  ftilort,        -         -       81 

■  ■        ditto X790»  -    %  '"     pcffom  between '70, 

> ditto      -  ■      1791,   -    »  .  .                        and 80,      -       -      i> 

>  ditto ty^Zt    -  2        ' :— do. between  80 and  90,  18 

boofcholdert,        -     25* do*. —^—-90  and  100  f,  » 


Number  of  bouieholder*  in  the  burgh,  czdufivc  of  the  p^uprrs^  takeo  »n- 
BuaUf  at  the  Michaelmas  head  court,  during  the  lad  9  year*  precedinj^  1792  : 

X7S3    -    fta4  X7S6    -    ftl9  1789    -     931 

Z784     •     121  1787     •     219  1790     •     341 

17*5    -     »»i  X788    -    239  1791     -     248 

^  Aldiouglv 

century,  when  the  minider  made  application  for  an  augmeutation  of  {lipend,  the 
heritor!  of  Dunrod  and  Galtway  oppofed  it, Upon  thi«  ground,  that  thcfc  pariihcs 
coabl  not  afford  it,  **  heimg  m  mert  ^mJU**  From  this  fev<e#e  blow,  thcVoantry 
ixariih  hu never  yet  scgaitted  its  former  popuHtion;  nor  is  it  pcol^bte,  from  the* 
large  and  cxtenfive  farrn^,  into  which  it  is  now  ^Uvid«d,  that  U.  will,  for  many 
5  cars  to  come.  But  the  noble  Lord  did  not  only  cffcntially  injure  the  population 
«f  the  parilh,  by  his  loyalty,  but  alfo  fo  funk  and  deranged  his  fortune,  (hat  foofi 
after  hii  death,  amno  1664,  bis  eftate  was  delivered  up  to  his  creditors. 

\  rhe  deaths,  in  1 79  A,  cannot  be  compared  with  thofe  of  former  year*,  a» 
DO  rcgiJler  of  deceafcd  pcrfons  has  been  kept.  Neither  can  the  birth*  be  acca-* 
ratcly  compared  ;  becaufe,  from  the  great  extent  of  the  parifh,  and  the  occafional* 
abfence  of  the  miniftcr,  children  are  fomctiiues  chriflcncdby  other  miniftcrfc  ; 
and  from  the  parents  neglcding  to  regifter  ihcm,  the  names  of  a  few  src  left  un- 
recorded. They  may,  however,  fafely  be  taken,  at  an  average  for  the  laft  4 
ycara,  at  65.  The  exaA  number,  both  of  births  and  deaths,  being  accurately 
tAcB,  at  the  vifliation  in  1792,  may  be  perfc«^ly  depended  upon. 

$Thc  following  inftances  of  longevity,  it  may  be  proper  here  to  infert.  In 
1 7g4,  a  woman  died  in  Kirkcudbright,  who  was  a  native  of  the  place,  aged  103. 
Ixceptthelola  of  her  fight,  (he  retained  her  other  faculties  till  within  a  few 
DM>atWol  het  donth.    And  on  the  28th  of  November  1791,  William  Marihall, 

tinker. 


%6  Statf/Kcal  Aecotrnt 

Althoagh  from  the  great  inereafe  of  popohcipD  b  the  iMttfh, 
fifice  177X9  the  inhabitants  in  the  town  are  become  mn^ 
more  numerous^  jet,  from  the  conftant  emigration  of  Toung 
people,  the  growing  population  receives  a  cooiiderable  check. 
No  town  io  Scotland  fenda  perhaps,  for  iu  file,  fo  vuuxf  of 
ks  children  abroad  to  foniga  countries-  Man  j  of  them  hMFc» 
by  their  indaftry  and  application,  fuoeeeded  eitremelj  wriL 
Some  have  acquired  very  ample  fortunesy  with  a  fair  and  ho- 
nourable charafter. 

Poo^.— The  number  of  poor  people  in  die  town  and  conn'* 
try  amounts*  upon  an  average,  to  4a.  Thej  are  fnpporced 
chiefly  from-thp  weekly  collediona  at  the  chuich  doori  upon 
Sunday.  Each  perfon,  at  the  quarterly  divifion,  receives  nc- 
cording  tp  his  circumllaooes,  at  the  rate  of  Ss.  or  xos.  The 
whole  annual  colIeAion  amounts,  at  an  average,  to  70K  Ster- 
ling^* At  the  quarterly  ^ivifion  of  the  weekly  coUedion, 
^y  the  miniilcr  and  elders,  there  is  a  peculiarity  worth  men- 
tiooing.  The  minifters  and  elders  of  the  burgh  meet  toge* 
ther,  and  divide  the  quarterly  colieftion  among  the  poor 
people  refiding  in  the  town.  Then  the  minifters  and  elders 
f  f  th%  country  parifh  meet  by  themfelves,  and  diftribute  what 

they 

tbker,  died  here,  »t  the  aftonifiuog  9^  •!  xia  Though  he  was  oot  a  nati?e  of 
(|iis  place,  but  of  KirkmichaeU  >n  the  ibire  of  Ayr,  yet,  for  feTcral  yean  before 
he  died,  he  refided  often  in  this  hargh.  This  B&iracle  of  longcTity  retiined  his 
fenfes  almoft  to  the  laft  hour ;  and  diftindtty  remembered  to  have  feen  King 
'WiUiam^s  fleet,  when  on  their  wi|y  to  Ireland,  riding  at  anchor  in  the  Solway 
VKth,  clofe  by  the  Bay  of  ^iihcttdbright,  imd  the  tranljportt  lying  in  the  harbour. 
His  funeral  was  attended  by  a  great  coocourie  of  people  of  all  raniis,  wlio  paid 
4ue  refpeA  to  his  allonifhing  age. 

n  Xk.  R9>tRT  JoaN^TQKK  t«f  London  bequeathed  by  wilU  ^tat4d  September 
fe^th  1639,  the  fom  of  jool.  Sterling,  to  be  employed  in  fUcki  apd  the  intereft 
to  ^diTided  annually  amung  poor  burgefles.  The  magtfttates  are  trvfteet  (at 
IM  mantigemcnt  vf  die  principal,  and  tho  diftribvtion  of  the  intercfU 


ef  Kirki^udbrigbt.  pjt 

tkej  hav«   Gollefied,  during  the  quarter,  among  the  poor  of 

the  landward  pariih*     As  each  of  them  coIleAs  at  their  own- 

particular  doors  of  the  churchy  their  funds  by  this  means  are. 

kept  quite  feparate.    This  praSice  has  extfted  ever  fincc  the 

union  of  the  parlfhes,  and  ;no  doubt  took  its  rife,  froih  a  inf- 

picioQ  entertained  bj  the  heritors  of  the  landward  parifhi  that 

if  their  coUeSions^  for  the  fuppoxt  of  the  poor,  wers  con* 

founded  with  thofe  of  the  town,  thej  would  be  fwallowed  up 

bj  the  numerous  beggars  th^t  generally  frequent 'coantry 

towns  and  burghis.    Time  has  ihewn  that  their  fears  were  not 

groundlefs  i-  for  the  poor  upon  the  town's   roll  are  {  times 

more  in  number,  than  thoGs  upon  the  roll  of  the  pountty 

parifli, 

Kirkcudbright  United  Society ,^^lti  this  town  a  fociety  wa4 
condituted,  in  the  year  2783,  by  a  few  perfonSf  under  the 
defignation  of  the  United  Society  of  Kirkcudbright.     The  fole 
objeA  of  this  tbciety  is  to  relieve  the  didreiTed,  by  preventing 
their  want  of  fubiiftence  while  in  ficknefsy  and,  in  cafe  of  deaths 
to  defray  the  cxpences  of  their  funerals.  Ic  extends  alfo  to  the 
relief  of  the  widows  and  orphans  of  deceafcd  members.     Ac- 
cording to  the  regulations  of  this  fociety,  each  member  pays* 
upon  his  admifliop,  6s.  6d.,  and   is.  per  quarter     He  mud 
be  5  years  a  member  of  this  fociety,  before  he  can  receive  any 
benefit  from  the  funds.     In  ficknefs  be  receives  3s*  per  weelf: . 
till  he  is  recovered  ;  and,  at  death,  his  widow  or  heir  receives 
ll.  xcs.  to  defray  the  cxpences  of  his  funeral.     The  widow 
of  a  deceafed  member  receives  a  certain  fum  yearly  \  and,  in 
cafe  there  is  no  widow,  the  children  receive  what  (he  would 
have  drawn,  until  the  youngeft  is  2  9  year$  old*     Tbis  fo-f 
ciety,   which  was  eftabliihed  at  firft  by  a  few  well  difpofed 
perfons,  for  tlie  laudable  purpofes  already  mentioned^  has  now 
increafed  in  number,  from  10  or  xa,  to  no  Ief:>  than  126  mem« 
Vol..  XI.  C  bers, 


t9  Stati/iical  Account 

ben.'  Thoir  ftock  amounts  to  x6ol.  The  happy  effefts  of 
this  benevolent  ioftitution  are  daily  felt  by  lick  membersy  and 
by  the  widows  aod  orphans  of  thofe  that  are  deceafed  *•       , 

Jffr^i&.-->KiRKCUDBRiOHT,  the  head  bargh  of  the  ftewartrj, 
where  tlie  courts  of  juftice  and  public  records  are  kept*  was 
anciently  a  burgh  uf  regality,  and  held  of  the  Douglafles, 
lords  of  Galloway^  as  fuperiors.  Upon  the  forfeiture  of  the 
eftates  of  James,  9th  Earl  of  Douglas,  and  laft  Lord  of  Gal- 
loway, at  Edinburgh,  4th  Anguft  I455»  ^'"S  J'^*'^  ^I« 
erefied  the  town  into  a  royal  burgh,  by  a  charter,  dated  at 
Fertbf  %6ih  OQohir  1455 ;  which  was  renewed  and  confirmed 
by  a  novodamus  from  King  Charles  I.  dated  at  Holyrood^ 
hmfi^  20ib  July  1633.  3y  this  charter,  and  the  fet  of  the 
burgh,  the  town  council  is  unalterably  fixed  to  confift  of  17 
perfonSy  via.  a  proYoil,  3  bailies,  a  treafurer,  and  13  coun-* 
fellors,  who  are  to  meet  annually  at  Michaelmas,  and  vot« 
out  3  of  their  number,  and  eled  3  new  counfellors  in  their 
place  t. 

Rivenui. — ^The  annual  revenues  of  the  burgh,  which  confift 
chiefly  of  the  rents  of  its  landed  property  and  filheries,  b^ 

mount 

^  There  u  alfo  another  fociety,  fomewhat  fimilar  to  the  former,  bnt  upon  t 
HaQch  more  eztenfive  fcale,  aVout  to  ke  eftabliflied  in  thi«  pla^e.  It  ti  to  hff 
called  the  KxascvDaaioBT  Fxaicatt  Sociztt.  But  at  it  it  onlj  in  contem^ 
lation,  a  defcription  of  it  muft  be  deferred  until  fome  future  period. 

f  Thii  rsguhdoD,  howerer,  hat  pever  been  duly  attended  to.  Somednet 
the  old  counCellors  have  rt-daSed  tbewffiivet,  without  making  any  alteration  at 
all.  At  other  timm,  particvlarly  in  two  famQUt  political  Orugglet,  one  about 
50  yean  ago,  the  other  fo  late  at  the  year  Z790,  the  party,  forming  the  majo* 
rity,  troted  out  no  fewer  than  j;  counfellors,  and  elefted  as  many  new  onet  to 
(ttcceed  them.  However,  thit  arbitrary  proceeding  received,  in  the  laft  iaftancei 
f  cheA  fr^mtbc  Cotut  of  SeQaa, 


9f  KirkcudbrigbU  l9 

AioQBt  at  prelent  to  about  33ol*  But  upon  the  explratioa 
of  the  ptefeot  leafes  of  land,  thej  wiU  rife  confiderably  above  . 
that  fum.  Oat  of  this  food  the  burgh  pays  about  zool.  to 
the  public  teachers.  Thej  are  not  much  ia  debt,  and  what 
thej  owe  arifes  from  the  lands  thej  have  lately  purchafed*  Had 
diey  bought  more  property  at  an  earlier  period,  thej  would 
have  confiderablj  augmented  the  revenues  of  the  community. 
However,  though  they  haVe  made  but  few  purchafes,  it  does 
not  appear,  that  they  have  alienated  any  property  for  a  great 
many  years  paft.  Gontiderable  fums  have  been  laid  out  in 
public  buildings,  particularly  upon  a  large  and  elegant  court 
bonfe,  which  they  built  about  3  years  ago,  for  the  accommoda* 
tion  of  the  courts  of  juHice,  and  public  meetings  of  the  fleir 
artry.  It  coll  above  60  ol. 

Ce//.-— In  calculating  the  annual  fupply,  which  is  generally 
done  in  April,  we  cannot  avoid  remarking  a  piece  of  injuftice 
in  the  mode  of  afleiGDg  a  certain  clafs  of  the  inhabitanti. 
The  fupply,  which  is  about  4ol«  Sterling  yearly,  is  levied, 
one  half  from  burgh  lands,  and  from  merchants  and  tradetl 
men  for  their  refpedive  trades  ;  the  other  half  is  thromi  en* 
tirely  upon  the  tenants  of  houfes,  while  nopart  is  charged  to 
the  account  of  thofe  who  poflefs  and  occupy  houfes  as  their 
own  proptrty.  Such  an  egregious  deviation  from  aU  the 
rules  of  jullica  and  equity,  is  perhaps  not  to  be  parallelled  in 
any  burgh  in  the  kingdom.  But  it  is  to  be  hoped,  fuch  an 
npequal  taxation,  where  one  defcription  of  perfons  (and  thofe 
by  no  means  the  pooreft),  is  totally  exempted,  and  another 
burdened  with  the  whole  fum,  will  foon  be  lefUfied. 

7rtfii>.-~The  town  of  Kirkcudbright  had  long  ago  a  confi- 
^eraUe  inland  trade,  and  a  good  ihare  of  commerce.  No  town 
was  better  ficuated  for  it.    How  it  came  to  lofc  it  in  a  later 

C  a  period^ 


2<>  Statiftical  Acccount 

period,  can  be  accoanted  for  onlj  from  the  contraband  trade^ 
which  it  afterwards  carried  on  with  the  IHe  of  Man.  This 
iSegal  commerce  deranged,  for  a  while,  all  their  ideas  of  fair 
'  and  upright  dealing.  After  this  trade  was  fet  afide,  large 
fmuggling  companies  eftabliihed  themfelves  along  the  coaft  of 
Gallowajy  and  with  a  high  hand  braved,  for  fome  time,  all 
the  efforts  of  government  to  fupprefs  them.  However,  from 
the  vigilance  and  aftivitj  of  the  revenue  officers,  efiabliflied 
at  the  port,  and  particularlj  thofe  upon  the  coaft,  this  trade 
Has  of  late  gradually  declined* 

ManufaBures^^^fiAxmX.  a  year  ago,  fome  faint  appearance^ 
of  manufadorifs,  in  the  cotton  line,  began  to  (hew  them- 
felves.  Mules  and  jennies  have  been  ereded,  and  weavers 
brought  from  a  diftance  to  work  with  the  flj-ihuttle.  A 
woollen  manufa&ory  is  alfo  begun,  as  well  as  a  candle  and 
{bap  manufaftorj.  Should  thefe  branches  happily  fucceed, 
it  would  be  of  the  utmoft  advantage  to  this  town.  Would 
government  take  off  the  high  duty  upon  the  importation  of 
eoali^t  which  is  the  only  fuel  ufcd  in  this  place,  it  would 
afford  great  encouragement  to  thefe  manufactories,  and  turn 
the  attention  of  the  people  to  a  more  certain  profit,  than  they 
can  expeft  from  the  precarious  advantages  which  refult  froa& 
fmuggfing. 

5ir/r^iii;.— Twenty-eight  brigs  and  floops  belong  to  the 
port  and  difirid :  tonnage,  X053« 

*  The  C0AL9  imported  for  three  yean  paft,  within  the  caftom-hoafe  6\&xiA 
of  thii  place,  amounted,  upoo  an  average,  to  1490  chaldert.  Of  this  quantity 
the  town  and  parifli  take  the  half,  755  chalders,  which  are  equal  to  605  tons. 
The  duty  of  tiut  i»  %o^.    The  price,  at  the  rate  of  il«  6s.  per  ton,  is  786I.  xot« 


•f  KirkudbrigbL 


at 


In  foreigu  trade,         -         X 
In  ditto,           -          -          1 

autt  in  nu6, 

-        8 
8 

120 

20a 

In  the  coafting  ditto,   -     13 
Salmon  fmacks,          -         2 

3  &  4    from 
-        3 

30  to   80 

Shell  boats,         -         -       7 

a          

10  to    18 

On  the  flocks,  an  ezcife 

cutter,        -           -         I 

m                     *■      '                 * 

60 

On  the  flocks,  a  coafting 

vcffcl,           -          -         1 

. 

80 

JctomU  cf  Corn  and  Grain  fentcQqfiwi/e^  from  the  difiriS  of 
'  Kirkcudbright^  in  the  Tears  1790,  1791  and  1792, 


Wheat 
Tean.  ^,  Bo. 

Wh 

Flo 

Qr. 

eat. 

or. 

Bu. 

Barler. 
Qr.    Bu. 

Bea 
Qr. 

Btt. 

Oats, 
<^.  iBu. 

Oatn 

Tabs. 

leal. 
Cwt. 

Peafew 

1790  36      4 

1791  8      I 
X79»    3*     a 

0 
0 
.9 

0 
3 

13V     * 

811     0 

1598     5 

319 

a64 

4 
2 

6 

1 6)  A     7 
1846     3 
3456  [  3 

754 
694 
6»3 

8 

0 
xo 

0 
0 
7 

Tou!    7^      7 

IZ 

% 

3736     3 

699 

4 

79»5  1  5 

ao;! 

18 

7 

Atct.    %s  I  i 

3 

6 

ia4i     4 

a33 

4 

a64i  t  7 

690 

H 

a 

Coirrfi  izjv//  Public  Offices. — ^The  burgh  of  Kirkcudbright 
is  the  place  ezprefsly  appointed  bj  ad  of  parliament,  nvhere 
the  fteward's  courts  are  to  be  held,  and  no  where  elfe.  This 
court  confifts  of,  a  fieward  depute,  who  is  the  fupreme 
judge,  a  fteward  clerk,  and  7  foUcitors.  or  procurators.  The 
court  meets  every  Friday,  excepting  during  the  time  of  vaca- 
tion. There  is  alfo  a  cuilom-houfe  eftablilhed  within  tho 
hargh.  Formerly  it  was  a  member  of  the  port  of  Dumfries. 
About  50  years  ago  it  was  disjoined  from  it,  and  eilablifhed 
a  port  of  its  own.    It  conlifts  of  a  coUeftor,  comptroller,  fur- 

veyor, 


S9  Statifiical  Accbuiit 

vejor,  landwaiter,  4  tidemen,  and  4  boatmen^  Within  the 
diftriS  there  are  3  creeks,  viz.  Caicraig  on  Fket^  Bakarry 
Bay^  and  Potu  at  Barlochan  Mill^  upon  the  river  Urr.  The 
diAri^  extends  from  the  eaft  fide  of  the  river  Urr,  inhere  it 
joins  the  diftrift  of  the  cuSom-houfe  of  Dumfriesi  \o  the 
bttm  of  Carfloath,  where  it  cbnaeds  with  Wigtoa  cuftom- 
'koufe,  being  about  50  miles  in  lengthy 

5irioo/r.— Within  the  burgh  there  are,  i  redorof  the  gram- 
mar fphool,  X  teacher  of  writing  and  arithmetic,  and  I  teacher 
o£  Englilh*  The  re£tor  enjoys  a  falaiy  of  30L  per  annutn^ 
the  other  two  have  30I.  between  them.  The  fcholars  are 
numerous,  and  well  taught.  Both  the  redot  of  the  gramnaar 
fchool,  and  the  writing  mailer,  keep  boarders,  at  the  rate  of 
26I.  per  annum. 

Churchy  Sec. — The  prefent  minifter  was  ordained  the  a7tb 
of  September  1770,  is  married,  and  has  13  children,  viz* 
7  fons  and  6  daughters.  As  to  his  flipend,  he  cannot  well 
fay  what  it  is.  About  20  years  ago  he  raifed  a  fummons  of 
augmentation,  with  the  concurrence  and  approbation  of  all  his 
heritors ;  but  from  the  violent  contefts  which  afterwards  arofe 
amongft  them,  about  their  adjufling  their  tiends,  the  locality 
is  not  yet  finiihed.  The  unavoidable  ezpence,  in  which  theie 
litigations  have  involved  the  minifter,  is  not  le£s  thaa  ajo  L 
Whether  the  heritors  will  lay  this  to  heart,  and  reimburfe 
him,  according  to  their  promife  at  the  commencement  of  the 
procefs,  he  cannot  fay.  When  the  locality  is  fixed,  the  whole 
ftipend,  in  money  and  vidual,'wi]l  not  exceed  xziL^-a  poor 
fum  for  fo  rich  and  extenfive  a  parifli,  and  a  populous  royal 
burgh  .-^Though  there  are  3  glebes  in  theparifii,  yet  the  mi- 
nifter pofiefies  only  one,  and  h  is  the  wo^ft  of  the  three.  It 
is  the  worft  in  quality^  and  fcarce  the  legal  half  in  quantity. 

He 


of  KirkcudbrtgbU  t^ 

Ht  has  no  tnanfe,  notwitbftanding  there  were,  in  former  times, 
3  churches,  3  manfes,  and  3  glebes.  Inftead  of  a  manfe  he 
has  15L  per  annum.  This  he  had  to  contend  for  before  the 
Court  of  Sedion.  The  fum  is  too  fmali  for  the  rent  of  % 
houfe  in  Kirkcudbright. 

CharaBer  and  Manners The  people  of  Kirkcudbright  are, 

in  general^  of  a  pleafant,  focial  and  agreeable  difpolitiony  and 
their  morals  are  fully  as  good  as  thofe  of  their  neighbours. 
Few  or  none  arc  ever  incarcerated  for  crimes  or  mifdemeanors. 
Formerlj  they  were  faid  to  have  been  much  addided  to  drinking, 
and  perhaps  there  Vas  fome  truth  in  the  report ;  now,  except 
amongft  a  very  few  of  the  loweft  clafles,  the  charge  would  be 
nnjuft.    In   point  of  tafle,  thej  are  much  fuperior  to  mod 
people  of  the  parilhes  around  them.    Their  reading  is  exten* 
five ;  and  being  furnilhed  with  an  excellent  fubfcription  Iib« 
rarj  of  the  beft  modern  books,  thejr  have  acce(s  to  all  the 
improvements  in  literature  and  politics.     They  are  all  loyal 
to  government ;  and  no  lefs  attached  to  the  principles  of  the 
Britiih  G)ailitutiuo,  than  averfe  to  divifions  in  the  Church. 
No  minifter  in  the  church  of  Scotland  can  boaft  of  fuch  una- 
nimity amongil  his  people  :  For  among  the  whole  2,295  th^c 
compofe  the  parifh,  there  is  not  one  diflenter,  or  feceder,  of 
any  denomination  whatever. 

Prices  of  Labour  and  Provifions* 


Xfen  ferrBBtt  per  ana.   JL.8    0 

0 

.Salmon,        •        -       L.o    0    3 

Woacs  icrvaots,       -        3  to 

0 

OriUet,        «        .        -     0    0    21 

Ujoorcrsperdajyfnmi  it. 

Trouti,        .        -        -    0    0    If 

to        -        -         •        0    I 

Cod,        -        -         -        0    0    xf 

Beer,perll».£ngyfli,     .00 

Heat,  etch,        •       -0x0 

Mottooy       -        *      •    0    0 

3i 

Chickens,       •          -        003 

Liiiib»       .        -        .00 

Xggi,  per  dosen,        •        003 

Fork,       •        •        •       Q    0 

Ji 

Botter^pcrEngUlhlb.    -007 
Scotdi 

14^  Statifiical  Account 

Scotch'cfaeefe.perftoiie*,  L.O    5    4  Bear,  per  bolt, 

^glilh  ditto,  ditto  *,    •     080  Barley,  pet  boU^ 

Oat»y  per  boll  f ,        *        0x80 


X    6 


Antiquities. — ^There  are  many  yeftiges  of  Britiih  and  Ro« 
man  camps  to  be  traced  through  this  parifli.  Some  are  alznofl 
Oitire,  others  much  defaced.  In  the  Carfe  o^  Culdoacb  there 
h  one  of  the  former  ftill  viiible,  though  much  effaced.  From 
its  fitustion,  it  feems  to  have  been  fornied  with  A  view  to  dc-r 
fend  the  ford  acroCi  the  river  Dee,  which  lies  immcdiatelj  be- 
low it.  In  Little  Sypland  there  is  another  Britiih  camp,  quite 
entire.  In  Whynny  Liggat  there  is  a  Roman  camp.  lo 
Miikle  Sypland  there  are  two  Britifh ;  and  in  the  farm  of 
Bombie  there  is  one  Britifh  and  one  Roman  camp  %. 

In  the  farm  of  Drummore  there  is  one  large  Bridfii  camp^ 
almoft  entire  11*     This  camp,  which  is  furrounded  with   a 

deep 

.<^  The  Zfigtjfl  ehiefi  it  fold  «#  Englffi  tsfti^Bt,  lut  the  Jinne  9/  Sc9tth  cheefe  eonftfit 
•f  %%  mtuea, 

f  The  KirkeuSrlght  ho!l  eimjifi  ef  8  peeh^  and  is  efual  h  II  JVinchifer  hujheh. 

^Kcar  the  Roman  camp  there  is  a  Druldical  temple,  which  was  deftroyed 
If  ithin  thefe  eight  years,  by  the  hands  of  an  ignorant  Gotb^  who  carried  off  the 
ftoncs,  rplit  them,  and  applied  them' to  building  a  contemptible  bridge  over  an 
inGgnificant  rivulet,  called  Buehland  Burn.  The  (lones  were  7  in  nonibcf ,  of 
round  granite,  and  of  unequal  fizes.  The  fmalleft  at  lejft  3  feet  in  diameter* 
In  Milton  there  are  alfo  two  Britifh  campt,  akid  one  Rom^n.  fSee  the  map.) 

I  From  the  filiation  and  extent  of  this  camp,  it  is  extremety  probable  that 
the  ancient  Britons  had  here  coUe^ed  a  conilderable  force  together  to  repel  the 
invaGon  of  the  Romans,  or  perhaps  to  defend  tKemfeive$  agaioft  the  plundering 
Daniih  and  Norwegian  rovers,  who,  in  a  later  neriod,  infefted  the  coaft  of  Scdt- 
land.  At  fomc  diflasce  from  this  camp,  in  the  farm  of  Balmae,  there'  was  Found 
a  few  years  ago,  by  two  ditchers,  a  flraight  plate  of  gold,  which  was  fo:  je- 
what  thick  at  each  end,  and  at  the  middle.  It  bent  eaiily  at  the  centre,  fo  as 
to  admit  the  two  extremities  to  meet.  But  to  whom  it  originally  belonged,  or 
to  what  purpofe  it  was  anciently  applied,  it  is  impoCDble  to  inveiligate.  It  wai 
fold  for  about  20I.  Sterling. 


tf  Kirkcudbright.  25 

4^p  foSity  is  fituaied  oa  the  higheft  part  of  the  fartn,  and 
coaunaDds  a  moft  extenfive  profped  of  the  Solway  Frith.  At 
feme  diftance  below  the  cainp»  upon  a  marihj  grouad,  there 
is  a  large  well,  built  of  ftoaes,  in  a  circular  form,  which  had 
fapplied  the  camp  with  water ;  for  no  water  is  to  be  found 
'where  the  camp  ftood.  It  ia  all  rocky  ground. — In  the  farm 
of  Lnhforg^  there  is  a  large  artificial  lake,  with  two  fmall 
iflands  in  it«  One  of  thefe  is  called  Palace  IJle^  the  other 
Stuhb  J/U^  Both  of  them  bear  ftrong  marks  of  ancient 
fortificatioot  and  were  unqueftiooabl/  the  feats  or  cadles  of 
Tc&ous,  Lord  of  Gallowat. 

Cq/HeSf  lie. — In  the  farm  of  Torrs  there  are  vediges  of  a  • 
a  ftrong  batteiy^  ereded  hy  King  William  the  III.,   when 
bis  fleet  was  wisd-boaad  in  this  baj,  as  he  was  going  to  raife 
the  fiege  of  Loadoadeny.     Within  the  fame  farm  there  is  a 
remarkable  eavcf  in  the  precipice  on  the  lea  (here.     From 
the  entrance  to  the  fartheff  end  it  meafures  60  feet,  but  the 
height  is  unequal.     It  is  narrow  at  the  mouthy  then  gradually 
iTidens,  rifiog  ia  height  to  la  feet  or  more ;  again  it  contra&s^ 
and  at  the  end  of  69  feet  terminates.    The  door  had  been 
origindly  built  with  ftones,  and  had  a  lintel^  which  is  now 
fallen  down,  and  buried  under  the  rubbilh.     The  cave  itfelf 
is  the  work  of  nature.    From  its  fequeftered  fituation,  and 
difficult  accefsy   amidft  rocks  and  precipices,  it  appear^  to 
have  been  a  hiding  place  in  ancient  times.    It  was  not  impro* 
bablj  fome  Druidical  cave.— Adjoining  to  t^e  burgh  there  is 
the  veftige  of  an  old  fortification,  called  in  ancient  writings^ 
Cajlltmainsy  now  CafiUdyka  ^.     It  is  furrounded  with  a  deep 

Vol.  XI.  D  foffiEc, 

•Thit  oftle  Mnflfed  orl^nill^  to  the  Lord*  of  GAi.LowAT,wHUft  OaU 
W«rtf  coodtt^  »  fepartte  pniriitce  from  Scotland,  and  fccflu  to  hate  been  bvilt 
pa  porpoCc  to  proted  the  entnacc  into  the  harbour.    John  Ballioi.  haTios 

m«rric4 


s6  Statifiical  Account 

foflee«  aud  is  fitaated  near  the  river.  The  tide  probaUjr 
flowed  roufld  it  in  former  times,  and  fitted  the  fcMflKe  with 
water. 

The  prefent  Caftk  of  Kirteudbrigh   is  fitaated  in  a  different 
part  of  the  town  from  Cafilemains.  i  ands  higher  up  the 

river,  and  was  built,  anno  1582,  by  ^homas  M'Glellak  of 
BoMBiE,  anceftor  to  the  prefent  Lord  Kirkcndbright  *.  It  is 
a  ftrong  mafly  building,  of  the  Gothic  order.  It  is  moftljr 
entire,  excepting  the  roof,  which  was  ftripped  off  and  fold  bj 
the  late  Sir  Thomas  Maxwell  of  Orchardton,  about  40  years 

ago  t. 

The 

married  DonMAoiLLAf  the  eldeft  daughter,  and  one  of  the  co-heireffes  of  Al- 
IAN,  the  lift  Lord  of  Galloway,  faccecded  to  a  confidcrahle  fliare  of  the  pr»* 
perty  of  her  father,  and  alfo  to  this  caftle.  When  the  cooteft  boewcen  the 
defcendants  of  BaUiol  and  Robert  Bnice,  for  the  crown  of  Scotland,  tcnninatcd 
in  fayour  of  ^e  latter,  the  property  of  Balliol  in  Galloway  wu  liarfeited,  and 
heftowed  by  the  tUnj^  upon  Aechibalo  DoootAa,  brother  to  Jamec,  Lord  of 
DougUt,  for  his  eminent  fervicet  in  driving  £pwAa9  Balliol  ont  of  the  king- 
dom. Thit  caftle  remained  in  the  hands  of  the  Douglafet,  Loidi  of  Galloway, 
tiU  1455,  when  their  vaft  poffeffiona  in  thit  country  were  forfieited,  and  aonesed 
to  the  crown-  Jauii  IV  gave  a  grant  of  this  cafi)^  and  &mc  lands  belong- 
lag  to  it,  to  the  bargh  of  Kirkcudbright,  by  a  charter,  dated  at  EMmhurgb^  %6tA 
Fdmary  1509.  It  appears  by  another  pharter,  dated  at  KirJUuSHgbt  1 5  08, 
that  the  King  had  been  here  in  perfon ;  and  tiie  tradition  is,  that  his  Majefiy 
had  been  hofpitably  entertained  by  the  burgh,  and  that  they  claimed  fome  re* 
ward  for  their  former  ferviccs  to  Jamis  II.  when  he  was  befieging  the  caftle  of 
Trief,  and  for  recfnt  fervices  to  himfclf ;  wherefore  hit  Majefiy  granted,  with 
49iffimt  rf  ParliameMt^  the  Caftle  and  Caftlemains  to  the  town.  At  thit  time  it 
vn^u  not  under  the  jurifdidion  of  the  burgh ;  but  fince  the  King's  grant,  it  hat 
been  alienated  by  the  corporauon,  though  the  land  ftiU  continues  fubjeA  to  » 
)>Qrgage  tenure* 

*  He  obtained  a  charter  from  Jamet  Vt.  comprehending  **  Towm  tt  imit^mm 
**  folum  fundmm^  ei  Ueum  fmper  fuUus  Imut  tt  tccltfia  fratrum  it  KirkcuAright  ptrfriut 
%'  iMJirutkontuT^  fiu  ^tJjfieekafitur^  am  9mmihts  hpidikm  Juptr  qfkm  txtJUntikus^'kmm 
f!  ftim  p^ariis  horiU  tt /em/uuiu,**  Thit  charter  is  daud  at  ZdUw^,  tth  Df^ 
fMs^r,  15^9- 

f  960dcs  the  Caftle  of  Kirkcudbright,  there  wit  another  flftnch  more  ancient ; 

within 


rf  Kirkcudbright.  fty 

Th6  tdwn  of  Eirkctidbright  bears  fome  matks  of  ancient 
fortifications.  A  deep  ditch  and  a  wall  appear  td  hate  formerlj 
fnrroaoded  it.  Strong  gites  were  alfo  placed  at  the  entrance 
into  the  town,  to  prevent  the  apptoach  of  an  enemj.  Tbefa 
gates  were  pulled  doWn  not  many  years  ago,  to  make  way 
for  building  new  hooles.  Some  remains  of  the  ditch  and  wall 
axe  ftill  to  be  feen  *•  It  is  probable,  that  the  ditch  was  then 
filled  with  water  by  the  flowing  tide ;  but  from  the  retreat  of 
the  fea  along  this  coaft,  it  does  not  at  prefent  reach  it. 

D  a  Religiout 

within  this  pariih,  which  belonged  to  the  family  of  M'Clelhui,  called  Railerry 
l%C£r.  It  hung  o^er  a  very  dreadful  precipice  above  the  Solway  Frnh,  and  was 
diqoiaed  £r()m  the  main  land  by  a  deep  foflee,  and  a  firong  wall  next  Uie  cafile, 
with  a  draw4iridge  of  hard  free-ftone,  of  to  immenfe  fis^e.  The  wall  and 
4faw4>ridge  were  deftroyed  only  about  40  years  ago ;  the  interior  buildings 
fahips  more  than  »oo  years  before  that  period.  At  prefent  nothing  remains 
but  the  deep  foflee.  This  caftle  was  befieged  and  taken  by  William,  £AaL  of 
DoDOLAi,  and  Lord  of  Galloway,  in  145a.  Sir  Patrick  M'Clillam  of 
BoMSis,  the  proprietor,  having  incuired  the  difpleafore  of  this  proud  and  law- 
leis  butm,  partly  from  his  conoedion  with  Lord  Hiaiis,  (who  had  withdrawir 
his  dependence  upon  the  Earl,  and  was  hanged}^  and  partly  from  his  attachment 
to  his  gofueign,  wu  lieised  in  his  own  caftle^  carried  to  the  caftle  of  Trief,  con- 
dcmaedt  and  difgracefbUy  put  to  death.  This  family  had  another  caftle  at 
Jomhic,  within  this  parifti,  from  whence  they  to«'k  their  title.  It  is  now  % 
heap  of  mins  -^In  tracing  the  various  remains  of  old  caftles^  which  formerly  be- 
Ifloged  CO  this  powerfni  clao,  together  with  their  vaft  poffeffioos  in  land,  oce  can^ 
not  ht^  reflcdtiog  on  the  great  inftability  of  human  affairs,  and  the  lad  tiain  of 
BisfiBrtnaes,  vrhtch  fbmetimes  attend  particular  families  more  than  othen-  Of 
aD  the  great  tflates  that  once  belonged  to  this  f  efpe^able  family,  there  does  not 
now  rcmaiB  one  fingle  foot  of  land  u  the  heir  male  of  the  title,  the  prefent 
Loao  KiaxcuDBaiaaT. 

•  In  JVbsjA*'/  mid  Bwrfft  Bjfory  of  tit  jhtipthUt  ofWtfmvnUni  aad  Cumkr' 
hmd^  and  the  ancient  fiate  of  the  borders,  during  the  reign  of  King  £d« 
WAsn  yi.  (t547),  there  is  a  manufcript  4ccmMt^  by  Sir  Thomas  CAaLiTON  of 
Carltim'ffmOt  "  of  a  ferray  in  Scotland,  conduded  by  himfelf,  who  eommanded 
''  a  party  under  the  (then)  Loan  Wbautom,  warden  of  the  Weft  Marches.** 
JHr  Thomas  fiiyi,  <*  be  went  through  Tevidale  with  his  party,  and  plundered 

t)ie 

9 


2S  Statijlical  Account 

Ritigtcuj  Houfis.'^n  Spottijwoo^i  jtcetmnt  $f  Mfllgiou4 
Houfis  im  Sc^landj  notice  is  taken  of  the  Franoifeans,  or  Gray 
Friars,  having  been  eftabliflied  at  Kirkcudbright  in  the  latk 
centurj.  Brother  Joha  Carpenter,  who  is  iaid  to  have  beea 
an  excellent  engineer,  and  dextrous  in  contriving  all  inftru- 
ments  of  war,  was  one  of  the  perfons  profefled  in  this  place.  Btu 
there  are  no  records  here,  that  can  throw  anjr  light  on  the  hif'- 
torjr  of  this  order,  whilft  they  continued  at  Kir^ccudbrighc 
The  ancient  records  of  this  country,  efpecially  what  helongedl 
to  the  church,  were  carried  off  at  the  Reformation,  bjr  the 
Popilh  clergy,  and  lodged  either  in  the  Vatican  at  Rome,  or 
in  the  Scotch  College  at  Paris.  The  prefent  church,  however^ 
feems  to  have  been  built  on  the  fame  fpot  of  ground,  which  was 
formerly  occupied  by  the  Fratrcs  min^rti^  oc  Grey  Friars^. 

Si. 

the  country;  then  attadbed  Dnmfrlc*,  which  fubmicted  to  become  liibjcAs  of 
Edward.  He  fent  atfo  a  fuRunona  to  XirMru  (as  he  caOs  h),  to  cotne  and 
make  oath  to  the  King's  Majefty.  Upon  rcfufing,  he  marched  with  his  paity, 
and  came  to  the  town  a  little  after  fun-rifing.  **  But  they,  who  faw  us  cooung, 
»  barred  their  gates,  and  kept  their  dikes ;  for  the  town  is  diked  on  borh  fides, 
*'  with  a  gate  to  the  water- ward,  and  a  gate  on  the  over  end  to  the  feH-^srard.*' 
However,  according  to  Sir  Thomas's  accoont,  the  town,  though  attacked,  was 
not  taken.  Afterwards,  indeed,  they  fent  their  commiffioners  to  Bumfries,  and 
engaged  to  ferre  the  KingN  Majefty  of  England.  This  hiRorical  anecdote^ 
ihews  that  the  town,  at  that  time,  was  tolerably  well  fortified. 

*  From  the  ancient  records  of  the  bnrgh,  there  appears,  by  a  contraft,  dated 
44th  March  1570,  to  have  been  given  to  the  magiftrates,  ■*  the  place  and  kitk 
■*  in  the  town  of  Kirkcudbright,  qohilk  fometime  pertained  to  the  ^iart  mtmt 
•*  of  Kirkcudhright ;  alfo  anc  kirk  within  the  burgh,  called  St.  Aminxat  JQrl^ 
'*  with  the  ktrk-yeard,  Chappelanes,  am]  yeard  thereof;  refeiTing  to  John 
'*  McClelland,  and  John  Mitchell,  the  chalmars  and  yeards,  which  they  occupy 
*'  at  the  date  hereof,  for  their  liferent*** — ^After  the  reftoration  of  epifcopacy  in 
Scotland,  notice  is  taken  of  a  great  tumult  having  ha]q»coed,  in  X663,  upon 
the  admiffion  of  a  curate  into  the  pariih  of  Kirkcudbright.  The  Lorda  of  hi 
Majefty's  privy  council  appointed  comnuifioiMrs  to  go  to  Earkoidbright,  and 
examine  inte  the  matter,  and  convene  before  them  all  fueh  as  were  cooeemed 


ff  KirkcuSright.  y^ 

ti*  Mat/s  JJb^  now  the  beaptsftil  ftat  of  tke  Earl  of  Sok 
kirk,  was  fbnnerlj  a  priory^  and  ibtiiided  in  the  ceign  ^f 
Da¥D  I.  bj  FEaavs,  Lord  of  GaUoway«  It  was  csdled 
PrwtaiuM  SunOa  Maria  d$  Ttrayll^  and  bdd  of  the  Afabqr 
of  Holytoodhoufe.  Tbo  prior  was  a  lord*  of  Pulioniont. 
There  are  no  yeft^es  a|  prefent  to  (hew  that  it  was  originally 
a  prio^.  Two  gates  that  led  to  it  weio  many  years  ago  de^ 
molifticd*  Tho  ooter  one,  whieh  was  placed  aboot  hslf  % 
miledifiant  from  the  priory,  and  about  an  equal  diftaace  from 
the  town,  ftill  retains  its  ancient  name,  the  Great  Crofs.  The 
inner  gate,  which  led  immediately  to  a  group  of  cells,  the 
habiution  of  the  monks,  was  called  the  Litth  Croft.  All 
tfaefe  cells  and  buildings  were  pulled  down,  and  removed 
about  a  century  ago,  and  the  ground  now  applied  by  his 
Locdiliip  to  a  much  better  ufe,  in  extending  his  beautiful 
pleafnre  ground,  than  ferving  the  purpofes  of  folly  and  fuper« 
ftition  f .    It  is  worthy  of  notice,  that  although  the  retreat 

of 

tn  adting  thu  tomiilt,  aod  prerenting  the  conte  from  entering  the  churdu 
At  the  meetins  of  the  eommiffioners  at  Kirkcudbright,  John  Lord  Kirkcod^ 
bright^  and  many  others,  were  arreded  and  fent  priTonen  to  Edinboigh,  for  re- 
fnfing  to  qiieU  the  tumolt  and  admit  the  curate.  Many  women  in  the  town, 
wbo  had  been  moft  adive  in  railing  the  mob,  were  condemned  by  tbe  com« 
miffioneii  to  fiand  at  the  market  croft  for  fcvetml  market  days,  with  a  paper 
on  their  face,  intimating  their  crime,  and  then  bound  over  to  keep  the  peace* 
The  magiftratcs  were  appointed  to  eiecnte  the  ientence. 

t  A  Hew  years  ^o,  when  his  Lordlhip  was  extending  his  garden  upon  the 
eaft  fide  of  the  ille,  the  workmenf  in  digging  and  removing  the  fliells,  acci- 
dentally diibovered  the  flceletons  of  14  people,  who  had  been  buried  under 
them.  They  were  regularly  placed  alongfi  the  fide  of  each  other,  with  their 
heads  to  the  weft,  and  their  feet  to  the  eaft.  One  of  them  feemed  to  be  diF- 
ifogniflied  from  the  reft,  by  a  row  of  thin  fiones  placed  around  him.  Probably* 
be  had  been  fome  chief  among  them.  How  they  came  to  be  interred  in  that 
partlcolar  fpot,  when  there  was  a  burying  place  adjoining,  which  belonged  to 
the  monks,  can  only  be  czpUined,  by  fappofing  them  to  have  been  buried  there, 
long  before  the  priory  exifted.  Be  that  as  it  will,  the  prefent  Earl,  with  great 
bumaoity,  canfed  all  the  bones  to  be  carefully  coUeded,  put  into  boxes,  aii4 
sgun  interred  in  the  Oaltway  church-yard. 


39  Statijlical  Jtcbunt 

of  the  Oea  18  obfervable  along  the  whole  coaft,  yet  it  is  t&ore 
farticoho'ly  remarkable  around  St.  Mary's  Ifle.  The  fea,  ih 
former .  times,  had  flowed,  not  only  round  the  vrhde  ifle, 
but  had  alfo  covered  at  leaft  one  half  of  all  that  i^  now  green, 
mt  every  flux  of  the  tide.  The  former  line  of  high  water 
can  be  traced  with  great  accuracy,  by  the  large  (hell  bnnkSy 
that  have  been  lately  difcovered  all  along  the  eaft  fide  of  the 
peninfubu  The  weft  fide  is  high  ground,  defended  by  a  bor- 
4er  of  rocks* 


NUMBER 


cfBorguc^  jl 


NUMBER   IL 
PARISH   OF   BORGUE, 

^Strwartry  and  PreJbyUry  of  Kirkcudbright-'^ynod  of 
Calloway.) 

By  the  Rev.  Mr.  Samuel  Smith,  Minijer. 


EreSiom  and  Names. 


BORGDE,  SzNWicK  and  Kirkakbrkws,  were  united 
abont  the  jear  1670.  Borgue^  or  Borg^  the  general 
name  of  the  united  pariflies,  is  derived  from  the  Gaelic  word 
iurg^  which  fignifies  a  little  hUl^  and  is  certainly  very  de- 
fcriptive^  either  of  the  lituation  of  the  church,  which  is  placed 
on  a  beautiful  eminence,  in  the  middle  of  the  pariih,  or  of  the 
general  appearance  of  this  diftrid  of  land,  which  is  remark- 
ably unequal  in  its  furface.  Senwick  (originally  SandwicS)^ 
is  compounded  of  Jandzad  wfVi,  two  Gaelic  words,  fignify-« 
ing  a  narrow  neck  of  land.  This  is  alfo  very  defcriptive^ 
both  of  the  lituation  and  foil.  Kiriandrews  evidently  takes 
its  name  from  the  tutelary  laint  of  l^cotland,  to  whom  it  was 
4cdicated« 

Situation 


I^Z,  Stat^ical  Account 

Situatum  and  Extent. — ^Thls  parifli  is  fituated  m  die  fbatbetil 
Extremity  of  the  ftewartrj  of  Kirkcudbright.  It  extends 
farther  fouth  thaa  anj  land  in  Scotland,  one  point  in  the  ihire 
of  Gallowaj  excepted,  ks  gtvaloft  length  is  lo  miles,  and 
its  greateft  breadth  7.  The  figure  of  it  is  vtry  irregular,  and 
the  whole  extent  maj  be  computed  at  40  fquare  miles. 

Sia  Coajt  and  Fi^.^^Thert  are  upwards  of  15  miles  of 
fea  coaft,  nearlj  half  the  circumference  of  the  whole  parifh. 
On  thi$  coaft  afe  the  following  bays :  Ro/j  Bay^  which  «f* 
fords  a  b&  and  commodious  harbour  for  (hips ;  Bridgtboufe 
and  Kirkandrews  baysi  where  yeiTels  of  light  burthen  anchor 
occafionallj,  in  fine  weather ;  and  Knocibrix  Bay^  which  is  a 
better  haven  than  the  two  former,  but  much  expofed  to  fbuth 
and  wefierlj  winds.  The  other  parts  of  the  ooaft  are  all 
xock J :  For  the  moil  part  it  is  bold  and'  elevated ;  and  in 
fome  places  the  cliffs  rife  200  or  300  feet  perpendicular ;  and 
as  this  coaft  is  very  much  expofed  to  the  fouth  and  weft 
winds,  the  fea  often  rolls  in  upon  it  with  prodigious  force, 
tfnd  forms  a  fcene  grand  and  awful  beyond  defcription.  The 
fpray  formed  by  the  dafliing  furge,  is  fometimes  carried  to 
t^e  diftance  of  two  miles.  It  blaAs  the  crops,  and  implies 
vegetation  on  the  coaft ;  but  enriches  and  fertilizes  the  fields 
which  lie  beyond  it. — Samphire  grows  among  the  rocks  in 
great  abundance.  Confiderable  quantities  of  other  marine 
plants  are  gathered  for  making  kelp.  Cod,  ikate  and  flounder; 
lobfterst  oyfters,  and  other  kinds  of  fhell  fi(h,  are  alio  found  \ 
but  it  has  never  been  efteemed  a  good  fifhing  coaft.  Perhaps 
no  good  fiihers  have  ever  made  the  experiment. 

Surface^  SM^  l^^.— The  furface  of  the  ground,  it  has  been 
obferved,  is  remarkably  unequal.  Although  there  are  no 
high  hilis)  yet  an  acre  of  level  ground  is  fcarcely  to  be  found 

ip 


of  Bcrgue.  ^^ 

in  any  part  of  the  parifli*  The  little  hlUSi  which  rife  ever/ 
wbere,  and  in  all  the  varieties  of  fliapef  are  nothbg  but 
mafles  of  rocks,  covered  with  a  thin  ftratam  of  earth.  The 
foil  is,  for  the  moil  part,  a  fine  loam,  fometimes  intermixed 
with  fand  or  gravel,  and  either  founded  on  a  rock,  or  hard 
gravellj  bottom.  Hence  it  is  extremely  iindiy,  and,  in  wet 
feafona,  very  produftive,  either  in  crop  or  pafturage  ;  but  it 
is  fooa  exhaufted  by  tillage,  and  eafily  injured  by  drought. 
Any  level  ground,  which  was  to  be  found  among  the  numer- 
ODS  little  hills,  originally  conliited  of  mofs ;  which  is  now  a1- 
moft  entirely  confumed  in  digging  for  fuel  or  marl,  and  hath 
left  nothing  but  morafTes  and  pits  of  ilanding  water. 

ProfpeBi. — ^The  rifing  grounds,  in  many  different  places  of 
this  parilli,  afford  very  beautiful  profpefts.  The  writer  of 
this  article  has  reckoned  15  or  1 6  different  views  of  the  fea, 
preicated  through  the  openings  among  the  little  hills.  A  very 
exteafive  view  is  exhibited  of  the  circumjacent  country,  the 
furface  of  which  is  finely  diverfified.  On  the  one  fide  (lands 
Kirkcudbright,  and  the  feat  of  the  Carl  of  Selkirk  ;  on  the 
other,  Wigton,  Garliefton,  and  Whitehom,  the  feat  of  the 
£arl  of  Galloway.  Behind,  are  the  mountains  of  Gallo- 
way, rifing  gradually  above  one  another  at  proper  diftances: 
Before,  Whitehaven,  Workington,  and  other  towns.  The  Iflc 
of  Man,  St»  Bee's  Head,  and  the  lofty  mountains  of  England j 
ftrttching  otit  to  an  extent  of  60  or  70  miles,  form  the  limits 

of  the  varied  fcene There  are  no  rivers  or  lakes  which  dc- 

fcrve  to  be  mentioned  5  and  very  little  wood,  except  a  f*w 
fmill  plantations  around  gentlemen's  feats. 

CiimmU  and  Difiafet. — ^The  climate  does  not  admit  of  that 
extent  and  variation,  that  takes  place  in  the  inland  and  moun- 
tainous parts  of  the  country.     The  cold  is  never  fo  intenfe 
Vol,  XI.  E  in 


24  Statifiical  Account 

tp  tvinter,  and  perhaps  the  heats  are  not  greater  in  fummer, 
from  the  well  known  effeds  of  fea  breezes^  to  cool  the  air  in 
the  one  feafon,  and  to  warm  it  in  the  other.  Owing  perhaps 
to  this  caufe,  confumptions  are  lefs  common  than  in  other 
places  of  Scotland.  Febrile  dileaf(^  are  more  frequent  than  in 
the  higher  dilirids.  Agnes  formerly  prevailed  very  mnch. 
There  has  not,  however,  been  one  inftance  of  this  diforder  for 
9  or  xo  yefirs  paft  f.     Rheumatifm  feem?  pow  to  be  the  moft 

prevalent 

*  Similar  obfervations  hiive  been  made  in  other  ftatiftical  hiftoriet ,  and  va« 
rioQt  caufefl  affigned.  It  i«  furely  worth  while  to  iQYeftigatc  the  true  canfc  of 
fads  fo  remarkable.  The  fuUowii^  theory  it  fubmitted  with  diffidence  to  the 
ynblicy  if  admiflible  in  a  publication  which  it  intended  chiefly  for  a  record  of 
fada  •■'•*• 

Marjb  Miafma  is  aligned  as  the  remote  caufe  of  intermittent  fevers;  and 
when  fuch  difcafet  become  lefs  pretaknt,  it  it  Tery  natural  to  fuppofe,  that  thi; 
Gaining  of  marine  A  ot  moffetmiift  be  the  occafion  of  it.  But  in  this  difirift 
aa  moffes  or  marlhes  have  been  drained,  of  any  ^onlcqaence,  for  ma&y  yearf 
paft  ;  nor  has  any  ot|ier  remarkable  alteration  happened  to  afied  the  f^lobrity 
of  ihe  air,  except  what  may  be  fuppoied  to  arife  from  the  fuperior  cultivation 
of  ^e  ground.  When  land  i»  deepened  and  pulverifed,  in  confcquence  of  im- 
provements, bf^fime,  (heUsy  and  mar),  it  ahibrbathe  rains  more  ipncfcly  and 
plemiftt)ly.  Hence  lefs  moifii^  will  arife  in  Evaporation ;  left  water  alfi»  wlU 
run  along  the  furface,  and  ftagaate  in  the  hollows,  which  are  here  to  be  found 
Ifi  ahnoft  every  field.  The  water  thus  colleded  fooner  acquires  a  noxious  qnap 
iSty,  than  t||at  which  is  ih  mbflea,  which  are  commonly  fed  by  fubttxrancous 
^^gsand  nmni&g  rivulets;  In'creafed  'vegctatioiti  vHlldiminilh'evaporatioo; 
lor  water  is  abfotbed  hi  eonfiderable  quantities  by  the  plana  tfaemielvea ;  and 
in  proportion  to  theiy  luxuriance,  they  dimimflb  the  refledion  of  the  lun's  rays, 
and  keep  the  air  more  cool  and  temperate  during  the  heats  of  fummer  and  au- 
tumn. Moreover,  it  has  been  proved  by  JLAToisxea  and  others,  that  water 
contains  pure  air  and  inflammable  air  :  and  sAib,  that  inflammable  and  bad  airs 
are  in  a  great  mcafure  the  food  of  plants.  Thus,  by  increafing  vegetation,  that 
inflammable  air,  which  is  hurtful  to'  animals,'  is  abforbed  in  greater  quantities. 
Water  aUb  is  decompounded  by  them;  the  noxious  parts  it  contains  are  returned ; 
and  a  vafk  quantity  of  vital  air  is  produced.  Hence  we  may  conclude,  that 
cultiVatioii  of  (hit  ground  will  in  jrarious  Dvays  contribute  to  remove  the  caiife  of 
'        ■    "•  '       '•  '  igucf, 


of  Bbrgue.  ^^ 

prevalent  diford^r  In  this  parifli.  It  may  in  a  good  meafure 
be  afcribed  to  fcarcitj  of  fuel,  and  cold  and  damp  houles. 
From  greater  attention  to  cleanlinefs,  and  a  more  plentiful 
life  of  vegetables  and  fteili  animal  focfd,  fcorbutic  aind  cuta- 
neous difeafes  are  lefs  prevalent  than  formerly.  Inoculation 
for  the  fmall  pox  is  generally  and  fuccefsfuUy  employed.-^ 
The  climate,  it  appears,  is  favourable  to  longevity*  On  the 
1ft  of  January  lai^,  13  perfons  were  alive  Upwards  of  80* 
One  of  89,  a  tinker  by  trade,  bids  fair  for  rivalling  his  brothet 
Marshaix,  celebrated  in  the  annals  of  CroSmichael.  He  caa 
drink  a  glafs  from  the  fole  of  his  foot  \  and  in  feats  of  firength 
and  agility,  would  fiirpafs  m6(l  men  of  Bo.  His  teeth  were 
all  double,  and  molt  of  th^m  yet  remain  faft  in  their  fockets* 

Population. — ^The  number  of  inhabitants  has  increafed  above 
one  tenth  within  thefe  4d  years,  as  appears  from  the  follow- 
xng 

Statistical  Table  : 

JMaUf.         FmaUt.        TotaL 
Number  of  fouls  in  1793,  -  364  407  771 

Ditto  in  1755,  at  retunied  to  Dr.  Webfter,         -         -        ^9/ 

Increa£^       •        .       .        74 
t  i  Mttaabtf 


agws,  and  other  febrile  difeafet;  and  be  of  great  nfe,  in  producing  that  fiate  d 
the  air  which  b  favourable  for  promoting  general  health.  Greater  length  of 
time,  and  a  greater  number  of  iJDftances,  are  doubtleft  oeceflary  to  prove,  with 
loll  convidioo,  that  iiich  difeafes  become  lefs  prevalent  as  the  landa  aft  betted 
cultivated.  It  is  no  uncommon  thing  for  particular  difeafes  to  appear  at  certaio 
periods,  to  rage  for  a  while  with  great  violence,  and  again  to  diiappear  for 
fome  time  entirely,  until  fome  peculiar  date  of  the  air  takes  place,  whfn  the/ 
again  appear,  and  run  their  courfe  as  formerly.  Thefe  remarks,  however*,  it  i*  * 
hoped  may  be  ufeful,  to  cxdcc  farther  inquiry  into  a  matter,  which  it  I9  peci^ 
Wlj  intercfiing. 


^6  Statiftical  Account 

Namber  of  famtlte**          •         151  Number  of  mechtnict,  -         40 

p<f  font  under  10  years                               fliopkeeperi,  -  5 

of  age,  137  -^__  keepcn  of  ak  houfet,       a 

reiiding  heritort  ♦»         5  Average  of  births  f,  -           33 

—  noo-rcfident  ditto,        X)  Number  of  black  cattle,  -      ^95  8 

—  farmers,  who  pay  from              ■                 (beep,  -  2x39. 

lool.  to  aocl.  per  annum,     -     16          -■              horfet,  -  ayo 

do.  from  aool.  to  300I   %                         ploughs,  -  66 

■               do.  from  joU  to  lool.  1$                       •  carts,        -  -  yi 

■  do.  under  50,       -       14 


Cultivation. — The  farms  let  at  from  8s.  to  zL  per  acre. 
Both  foil  and  climate  are  favourable  to  early  feed-time  and 
harvell.  Seed-time  ufuallj  begins  about  the  ift  of  March, 
and  harveft  about  the  lOth  of  Auguft.  Agriculture, 
though  much  improved  of  late  years,  is  not  yet  pethaps  ia 
that  improved  ftate,  which  might  be  expeded  from  the  ad- 
vantages of  foil  and  climate,  and  from  the  eafy  and  independ- 
ent circumftances  of  the  farmers*  About  one  half  of  the  land 
is  arable;  and  feldom  one  fourth  of  the  arable  land  is  in  crop. 
The  manures  chiefly  employed  are  lime  (hells  and  marl. 
Marl  is  found  on  mod  farms  of  the  pariilu  It  ^was  ufed 
firft  of  any  of  the  above  manures,  and  anfwered  extremely 
well  for  two  rotations  of  crops.  But  it  is  obferved,  that  it 
feldom  does  much  good  when  employed  a  fecond  time  ;  nor 
do  lime  and  fliells  anfwer  well  after  it.  Shelb  are  found  in 
great  abundance  in  all  the  different  bays,  and  efleemed  the 
bed  6f  all  thefe  manures.  One  fmall  vein  of  limeftone  has 
ftlfo  been  difcovered,  but  fo  trifling  as  not  to  defray  the  ex^- 
pence  of  workmanfhip. 

Produce, 


*  Tvc  9f  theft gentleiKen  reftde  only  occx/ionttly, 

t  N.  B.  A'o  rfgifer  c/marriag.j  or  buricls  h  kept.    Tie  average  $/  hirth*  -woj  Ua 
fame  50  yare  ago.     ^reviwt  U  that  ^emd  the  fopuiatimiftemt  /•  b^vt  htmi  greater^ 


of  BorgU€.  37 

Produce. — ^The  principal  crops  are  oats  and  barlej.  Twice 
as  moch  of  both  is  produced  as  to  ferve  the  inhabitants  oV 
tlie  parifh.  The  furplus  is  exported  to  England  and  the  weft 
of  Scotland.  Wheat,  flax  and  hemp  are  alfo  reared ;  but  in 
imall  quantities.  The  foil  is  doubtlefs  well  adapted  for  tur- 
nipsy  peafcy  and  other  green  crops  ;  but  thej  have  never  been 
cultivated  to  a  great  extent.  The  land  is  feldom  laid  out  in 
fufficient  heart.  Compoft  and  dunghills,  the  moft  valuable  of 
all  manures  for  a  thin  and  kindly  foil,  are  rarely  ufed* 

Dt/aJvantages» — ^Three  circumftances  concur  to  check  im- 
provement in  agriculture :  Short  leafes  of  farn^s,  want  of 
finiw  yards,  and  fcarcity  of  labourers.  Where  the  proprietor 
gives  only  a  leafe  for  a  few  years,  fcarce  any  renriftions  he 
canimpofe,  or  any  encouragements  he  will  give,  are  fufficient 
to  induce  the  tenant  to  meliorate  his  farm.  No  manure  is 
foond  to  be  of  lafting  advantage  in  this  country,  except  dung^ 
which  cannot  be  colleAed  in  fufficient  quantities,  in  any  other 
way  but  by  keeping  the  cattle  in  faoufes,  or  draw  yards ;  which 
no  tenant  will  ere&  at  his  own  expence,  without  a  very  long 
leafe.  Of  this  proprietors  begin  to  be  fenfible.  Some  time  ago, 
the  Earl  of  Selkirk,  and  lately  Mr.  Gairie  of  Dunroad,  have 
creAed  ftraw  yards  and  farm  houfes,  on  a  very  elegant  and 
liberal  plan.  Others,  it  may  be  expeAed,  will  foon  follow 
the  example.^— Owing  to  the  great  increafe  of  manufaftures 
ia  the  neighbourhood,  it  is  extremely  difficult  to  find  a  fuf« 
ficicnt  nomber  of  labourers,  for  carrying  on  improvements  in 
agricultare.  The  price  of  labour  is  nearly  doubled  within 
tbefe  laft  15  years,  and  is  now  perhaps  as  high  as  in  any 
place  in  Scotland ;  and  as  the  price  of  grain  is  very  little  railed 
in  that  period,  this  muft  alfo  prove  a  material  obftacle  to  the 
improvement  of  lands. 

Blaci 


38  Siatifiical  Account 

Black  Cattle.— The  natural  verdure  of  the  foil,  the  teib« 
perature  of  the  climate,  and  the  great  abundance  of  (belter 
afforded  from  the  inecjualities  of  the  furface,  concur  to  render 
this  one  of  the  finefl  grazing  countries  in  Scotland  :  And  the 
farmers,  as  might  be  expe&ed,  have  long  been  famous  for 
their  ikill  in  the  management  of  cattle.  Trials  have  been 
made  of  different  forts  of  blacl&  cattle,  from  England,  Ire- 
land, and  the  Ifle  of  Man ;  but  none  have  been  found  to  an. 
fwer  fo  well  as  the  true  GkiUoways.  The  fiirmers  here  are 
as  attentive  to  the  fliapes  of  cattle,  as  a  jockey  is  to  the  propor* 
tiona  of  a  horfe.  Even  an  eje  or  an  ear  is  not  to  be  overlook- 
ed. Some  of  their  obfervations  may  appear  whimfical ;  but 
in  general,  they  are  certainly  well  founded  ;  for  one  of  good 
proportions  is  always  eafily  kept,  foon  fattened,  and,  as  Mr. 
Ramfay  has  obferved,  **  commonly  tells  well  at  the  end  of 
**  the  balance."  It  is  to  be  regretted,  that  few  of  the  cattle 
here  are  kept  to  fufficieot  age,  or  fed  out  for  flanghter.  When 
this  is  done,  no  beef  in  the  world  exceeds  it.  They  are  com- 
monly bought  up  for  the  Engliih  markets,  at  a  and  3  years 
old.  An  ox  or  heifer,  of  i  year  old,  fells  from  jl.  to  5I.  }  of 
3y  from  5I.  to  7I.  i  and  of  3,  from  7I.  to  zol. 

Sheep  and  ffor/es. — ^There  are  fix  different  kinds  of  iheep 
in  this  parifh  :  the  Spanijh  iheep,  introduced  by  Lord  Daer  j 
the  Shetland^  introduced  by  Mr.  Thompson  ;  the  Cheviot 
fine-wooUed  (beep  brought  from  the  fliire  of  Galloway ;  the 
common  muir  or  black  faced  iheep ,  the  mug,  and  the  Bake^ 
well  breeds.  The  3  firit  kinds  were  only  introduced  lail 
year.  It  is  intended  to  try  a  pure  breed  of  all  the  different 
kinds,  and  alfo  to  crofs  them  various  ways,  which  will  moil 
probably  lead  to  ufeful  difcoveries  for  the  improvement  of 
wool.  The  muir  iheep  are  only  bought  in  annually,  and  fatted 
£6r  the  butcher.    The  miig  and  Bakcwell,  or  an  intermixture 

of 


of  Borgue.  39 

of  both,  conftitutes^  tlie  ftaple  of  the  country.  The  average 
price  of  wool,  of  the  fheep  bred  in  the  parifli,  is  i6s.  pec 
floDc,  of  a8  lb.  avoirdupois.  Muir  fheep,  brought  down  in 
harveil,  anfwer  very  well  without  fmearing,  and  the  wool 
improves  in  quality.  The  wool  of  the  Cheviot  appears  to  be 
of  the  feme  quality  with  that  of  the  natives.  The  Cheviot 
ftccp  are  very  well  made.  By  crofTing  the  breed  of  them 
with  the  Shetland,  whofe  wool  is  remarkably  fine,  it  is  pro- 
bable that  both  the  quality  of  the  wool  and  of  the  mutton  will 
be  improved. — The  foil  here  is  no  lefs  adapted  for  horfes  than 
for  cattle.  Not  many  are  reared  for  fale ;  though,  under  proper 
management,  they  commonly  pay  extremely  well,  and  are 
efteemed  much  more  durable,  for  the  pnrpofes  of  agriculture^ 
than  either  the  Englifh  or  Irifh,  which  are  fometimes  intro- 
duced. 

Ca$mfurce^  ManufaBures  and  Fuel, — ^The  prices  of  vivres 
of  all  kinds  are  regulated  by  Kirkcudbright,  which  is  our 
ncareft  market  town,  being  only  four  miles  dtftant.     This 
diftrid  has  long  been  defervedly  celebrated  for  fine  honey. 
Jt  is  clear  as  cryflal,  and  of  the  richefl  flavour.-r— A  fmall 
inanofafture  of  cotton  has  lately  been  eftablifhed  at  Kirk- 
aodrews,  where  a  village  is  alfo  begun,  but  does  not  feem  to 
iocreafe  with  rapidity.     Until  the  duty  on  coal  is  taken  oflT, 
it  is  not  to  be  cxpeded,  that  population  will  greatly  increafe, 
or  manufa£lttres  of  any  kind  be  carried  on  with  fpirit.     This 
partial  and  oppreflive  tax  is  highly  prejudicial  to  agriculture, 
as  well  as  to  manufaflures.     The  farmer  mufl  be  employed 
daring  a  confiderable  part  of  the  fummer  months,  in  prepar- 
ing and  bringing  home  bis  peats  ;  the  materials  of  which  are 
with  great  difficulty  dug  from  deep  pits,  carried  to  a  confi* 
derable  diftance,  and  mufl  afterwards  be  mixed  with  water, 
kneaded,  and  formed  into  loaves,   after  the  manner  that  the 

baker 


40  Statiftlcal  Account 

baker  prepares  his  dottgh  before  it  is  pat  bto  the  oven.   The 
cottager  *  *  *  t 

Cburcb,  School  and  Poor. — ^The  Crown  is  patron.  The 
ftipends  confift  of  a  chalders  of  meal,  z  of  bear,  and  8o3l« 
Scotch  of  money,  befides  4ol.  Scotch  for  communioa  ele- 
ments, and  3  glebes,  which  lie  detached,  and  meafure  z6 
acres.  The  church  and  manfe  are  verj  much  out  of  repair ; 
bat  the  heritors,  it  is  not  doubted,  will  Toon  repair  them 
handfomely.  They  have  lately  erefted  an  exceeding  good 
fchooUhoofe.  The  fchool  is  well  attended,  and  the  emolu^ 
ments  may  be  averaged  at  30!.  a  year.  The  poor  are  fup* 
plied  from  the  colleftions  in  the  church,  which  ufually  are 
between  2  jl*  and  30L  annually,  and  from  the  intereft  of  i4ol. 
of  ftock.  Twelve  or  fourteen  (the  number  commonly  on 
the  lift),  are  maintained.  None  of  thefe  beg  from  houfe  to 
boufe;  but  beggars  from  other  diftrias  are  very  numerous. 

Antiqmius. — ^There  are  four  or  five  moats  in  different  parts 
of  the  pari(h ;  one  of  which,  (the  Dun  of  Boreland)^  is  very 
remarkable.  Its  fituation  is  confpicuous,  and  commands  a 
very  eztenfive  profpeA  of  the  circumjacent  country.  Its  form 
is  exadly  circular,  and  at  the  top  about  40  yards  diameter. 
The  foflee  with  which  it  is  furrounded,  is  10  feet  deep,  and 
7  or  8  in  breadth  at  the  bottom.     At  the  diftance  of  a  bow 

the 


f  It  it  with  no  finaU  pleafure,  that  the  author  of  this  account  hat  jaft  received 
intelligence,  that  the  duty  on  coali  it  uken  off  The  advaouget  of  thii  will 
loon  he  felt  among  all  ranks;  and  it  will  fcarcely  admit  of  a  doubt,  that  m  a 
fiiort  time  it  will  prove  equally  advanugeout  to  the  State.  For,  at  a  moderate 
calculation,  the  diftrid  of  Galloway  alone  will,  in  ten  years,  contain  1 0,000 
more  inhabitants,  who  will  pay  thrice  as  much  to  GoTemmcnt,  in  aiier  tazet, 
at  it  paid  at  prefent  by  the  duty  on  coal. 


flidi  froni  it,  ahd  on  lower  grdund,  there  is  another  of  the 
£une  kind,  and  nearly  of  the  fame  circumference.  This  is 
alfo  farxottoded  with  a  fofKe,  which  had  been  filled  with  wa- 
ter, but  is  now  become  drji  from  the  draining  of  a  mofs 

adjoining  tb  it  *; 

s 

former  State  of  'the  fdrijb. — About  the  beginning  of  this 
Centurj,  the  number  of  farms  had  been  double,  or  nearly  triple, 
IKrhac  it  is  at  prefent.  Four  or  fix  horfes  wfcre  yoked  to  a 
plough,  whith  is  ilow  drawn  by  two  6r  three.  The  lands, 
hotvrithftandbg,  were  miferably  cultivated  ;  the  cattle  poorly 
fed ;  farms  every  where  overftocked  ;  and  beads  of  all  kinds 
grazed  promifcuoufly.    Henee,  though  the  foil  was  grateful, 

Vot.  XI.  F  and 


^  In  thk  mofs,  piecei  of  ipeiri,  and  an  old  iilver  coin  (the  infcription  efiaced); 
^ere  latdy  looiid.  Ic  if  natural  to  conjedure,  from  the  above  particulars,  tha^ 
thrf  had  been  intended  for  military  ftationt ;  for  which,  in  the  opinion  of  fome 
gcntkmcn  of  the  annjr,  who  lately  vifited  them,  they  are  very  well  adapted. 
^th/t  remaina  of  a  ftrong  fortification  are  alfo  Yifible  in  the  farm  of  .^omeas.  It 
lb  fitnated  on  a  ^pendoos  rock,  which  jntt  into  the  fea.  It  is  of  a  tdangulac 
Ibcm.  On  two  fides  the  rock  niea  nearly  aoo  feet  perpendicnlar.  On  the  land  fide, 
k  Is  fianified  by  two  ftrong  entrenchmenu,  and  a  moond,  the  original  height  of 
which  canaoc  now  be  afcertained,  as  it  is  almoft  entirely  demolifiied.  In  other 
plaeea  of  the  ihorc,  at  the  bottom  of  very  remarkable  cliffs,  there  are  two  or 
flvee  cnriotts  aires.  One  of  them  evidently  feems  to  have  been  artifical ;  it  ia 
^noertaitt  for  what  pnrpofe  it  had  been  intended.  The  mod  remarkable  fa«ft,  of 
which  any  nicmocy  is  preserved  by  tradition,  is  the  robbery  of  the  church  of 
fcnwick  by  French  pirates.  The  church,  at  that  time,  contained  a  very  confi- 
deraUe  quantity  of  pUte,  which  the  Frenchmen  plundered,  and  had  fafely  e- 
Icaped  with  their  booty ;  but  a  ftorm  arifing  immediately  after  they  had  put  to 
lea,  the  ihip  was  dalhed  upon  a  rock,  at  a  little  difiance  from  the  ihorc,  oppofite 
to  the  chnrch,  and  every  perfon  on  board  periflied.  In  memory  of  this  event,' 
the  rock  haa  ever  fince  been  ftyled  the  ^remhwtaCt  jeici.^There  are  two  fine 
old  minaan  the  patiih;  one  of  them  called  th9  tvmr  of  Salmmgam^  the  other 
fimtm  Cfpttn    Tradition  hu  prefcnred  nothing  certain  conoeroing  them^ 


jf%  Statiftical  Account 

«Dd  tbe  fmak$  trifling,  yet  the  iobabi taots  appear  (e  ba^e  a»* 
jpyed  the  coOQforlj^  of  life  ia  a  vctj  iacoofidcrabk  degree. 

frefint  Stai$. — The  rents  of  laiid  at  preCent  aie  x«creafied  «i 
the  proportion  of  4  or  even  6  to  i.  The  quantity  of  ftock  t^ 
greatly  diminiflied.  Many  of  the  farmers,  notwithftanding,have 
attained  to  opulenoe;  all  of  them  aie  iodependent»  and  enjoy  the 
comforts,  and  many  of  the  pleafures  of  life,  in  no  inconfidcrw 
tble  degritt.  The  difadvantages,  under  which  they  Ux>ur,  an 
comparatively  £ew;  and  they  enjoy  advanuges  more  tha^^ 
fuftcient  to  make  ?mple  compenlation*  Befidea  the  advaa^ 
tages  of  foil  and  climate  already  mentioned,  vre  apprehend  it 
x^a^  be  added,  that  their  farms^  ia  general,  are  of  a  proper 
taunt;  that  they  are  at  a  proper  difiance  from  market 
towns  ;  that  they  need  few  articles  of  importation,  and  have 
a  ready  £i1e  and  eafy  conveyance  for  articles  of  exportation  ; 
94d  that  there  are  no  villages,  or  Imall  maaufafturiog  tovm  aa 
fhe  pariifa.  The  laft  of  theie,  we  are  aware,  is  ufaally  daiU 
under  the  oppofite  head.  The  politician,  doubdefs,  ought  to 
confider  the  want  of  villages  and  manufadures  as  9n  evil^ 
|)|K:au(e  it  la  unfriendly  to  population,  and  increafe  of  aationaj 
jfevenue  i  but  the  philo(bpber,  with  more  enlarged  and  better 
fbntiments,  forbeaffd  to  lament  the  lois,  when  ha  oonfiders^ 
their  pernicious  influence'on  the  morals,  health  and  happinels 
of  mankind.  It  cannot  efcape  the  notice  of  the  attentive  obfi 
(ef vcr,  that,  in  villages,  the  moft  worthleb  and  wretched  part 
ef  fociety  is  commonly  to  be  found.  Thither  the  dregs  of  tba 
community,  from  all  quarters,  are  poured  in.  Every  incentive 
to  vice  is  prefented,  and  no  proper  police  is  efiabliihed  to  give 
9  check  to  the  growing  evil.  Where  villages  arc  founded^ 
Ija^nufaflures  ought  indeed  invariably  to  be  eftabliibed,  as  tho 
baft  meaas  to  give  encouragement  to  induftry ;  which  will 
apperate  as  a  more  effeftual  check  to  the  progrels  of  vice,  and. 

contxibuter 


«oitribal«  more  u  the  fdidtjr  of  the  tnMbitantd,  ttx9Xi  the  bift 
code  of  municipal  laws,  cm*  the  moft  rigid  exereife  of  that 
power  which  is  vefted  in  baron  bailies.  Pafturage  and  agri- 
cultura  are,  doabtlcb,  oC  all^m^oymeats,  the  Ihofl  favottrable 
to  the  health  and  morals  of  nankktd*  Perhaps  it  is  oi  ad- 
Tantage  where  both  are  blended  together.  The  leifiiro  and 
opportnnitiefi  of  fqcial  intercourfe,  afforded  hj  the  one,  lead 
io  indbleoGC  and  diffipation;  the  hard  and  unramittcd  laboue 
«f  the  ether  inipairs  the  vigour  of  the  mind,  and  contrads 
the  leetiogs  of  the  heart :  but  the  etrk  arifing  from  either, 
are,  in  a  great  meafurei  correded  b^  the  intermixture  of 
both* 

Ciaro^rr.-— Thefe  obfervations  have  been  fugged  e  r'/rom 
taking  a  view  of  the  occupations  and  chara&er,  of  the  inhs^ 
bitants  of  this  parifli ;  who  are,  in  general,  rational  in  their 
fentiroents;  liberal  in  their  opinions;  cheerful  in  th^ir  tempers^ 
adive  and  intelligent  in  their  profellion ;  fatisfied  with  their 
own  condition,  and  fympathifing  with  the  diftrefles  of  others* 
The  cottager  lives  long  under  the  fame  mafter ;  the  tenant 
feldom  changes  his  landlord:  the  progenitors  of  the  prefent 
race,  centuries  ago,  inhabited  the  pari(h,  and,  in  manj  inftan- 
ces,  the  very  farms  which  their  offspring  now  inhabit.  Thej 
are  all  allied  by  confanguinity  or  marriage ;  a  circumilance 
which  prevents  jealoufiesi  envyings  and  contentions,  and 
donbtleis  contributes  to  that  obliging  inteltourfe  with  one 
another,  for  which  they  are  remarkable.  Religious  differences 
are  unknown  ;  and,  though  very  moderate  in  their  religious 
fentiiDents,  they  have,  from  time  immemorial,  been  regular  in 
attending  ptiblic  worihip.<-*It  is  not,  however,  to  be  denied, 
that,  from  two  caufes,  the  morals  of  the  inhabitants  of  this 
country  have  fuffered  material  injury  :  xjt^  From  fmugglin^ 
which  fiddom  fails  to  beget  habits  of  intemperance :  And, 

Fa  arf{r> 


44  StallTtcal  Account 

ndly^  From  too  great  a  number  of  alehoufes,  or  rather  dru^ 
{hops,  eftablifhed  in  different  places  Y. 


*  When  the  Iflc  cf  Man  was  an  ivclfpcndnit  princtpdity,  the  temptations  to 
finuggling  were  fo  great,  that  all  daflcs  of  people  became  adventvrrn.  Sinee 
that  period,  and  ptrticnUrlf  fince  the  dntiea  op  tea  and  fpiriu  were  kfieoef!* 
fmuggling  hath  gradually  declined;  and,  of  late  yean,  throngh  the  great  vigi- 
lance of  the  excife  and  cnfiom-houfe  oScors,  it  hath  been  ahnoft  entirely  fop- 
preiTed.  In  confequence  of  a  bte  wife  regtdation,  obliging  all  who  keep  public 
houfes,  to  take  licences,  a  regulation  which,  in  this  covntrya  is  ftri6kly  enforced, 
all  onnecefiary  pahlic  houfes  are  in  Ipie  fnanner  fupprefTed ;  t)ie  haj^  c^^^^^  ff 
which  cannftt  fail  to  be  generally  experienced. 


NUMBER 


pf  Rerrick.  ^g 


NUMBER    III. 


PARISH    OF    RERRICK, 

[fnJhjUr^  of  Kirkcudbright — Stewartrjf  and  Svfio^  «/ 


Py  the  Rev.  Mr.  James  Thomsok, 


Extent  and  Surface. 


THE  pariih  of  derrick  is  in  length  xo  miles,  and  ia 
breadth  about  6 ;  the  face  of  the  country  broken  an4 
uneven.  On  the  north  (lands  Bencairn^  a  pretty  high  moun- 
tain^ with  a  few  inferior  ones  round  its  bafe,  all  covered  wit)i 
heath ;  the  reft  confiils  of  mofs,  meadow,  plain  fields,  and 
fwelling  eminences ;  the  whole  is  arable,  excepting  thofe  parts 
on  the  north,  and  the  different  moffes,  one  of  which  contains 
about  300  acres,  another  40,  and  another  30 ;  befides  feveral 
others,  and  two  little  lakes,  that  merit  no  particular  defcrip- 
tioo. 

Sea  Coafi^  IJiand^  \Sc. — On  the  N.  £.  comer,  the  ground 
is  flat  for  about  2  miles ;  where  there  is  one  of  the  pret- 
tieft  little  bayi|   that  is  to  be  met  with  perhaps  in  the  king* 

dom. 


4$  Statijiical  Account 

4oin.  It  firikes  into  the  land  at  right  angles,  abont  i  milev 
long  and  x  broad :  Ac  low  water  an  uninterrupted  bed  of 
fmooth  fand,  with  n^c  a  reck  to  be  feen  ;  and  fo  drj  and  firm, 
that  borfe-races  have  been  held  on  it.  Small  craft  may  load 
and  unload  in  any  part  of  it.  On  tlie  \V .  fide  is  fcooped  out 
by  nature  a  eapacions  bafon,  where  many  vefltls,  of  great 
burden,  may  lie  in  fafcty  from  every  ftorm.  At  the  head  of 
the  bay  there  is  a  marih,  of  about  half  a  mile,  formerly,  to 
all  appearance,  overflowed  by  the  tide,  but  now  undir  culti- 
vation. Off,  at  one  corner,  (lands  a  gentleman's  feat,  with  mo- 
dem improvements  ;  on  the  other,  an  ancient  irregular  vil- 
lage. Along  the  edges,  there  is  a  Hrtle  rifing  ground,  fldrted 
with  natural  wood ;  in  the  mouth  of  which,  on  a  line  with 
the  coaft,  is  placed,  exa£lly  in  the  middle,  a  beautiful  green 
fimooth  ifland,  called  Hefim.  It  ftands  high' out  ot  the  water, 
and  is  paftured  with  flieep,  and  abounds  with  rabbits. 

Profpe3s,^^h%  the  high  road  leads  acrofs  the  head  of  this 
bay,  where  the  traveller  has,  on  one  hkind,  the  wild  heathy 
profpeft  in  the  neighbourhood  ot  Bencairn,  and  on  the  other, 
this  ftriking  contrail,  it  exhibits  a  fcene  (efpecialiy  while  the 
morning  fun  looks  into  it,  having  the  hiftre  of  its  beams  to- 
creafed  by  reSecUon  from  the  water,  at  the  facne  time  that 
their  glare  is  correfted,  by  the  woods  and  gncn  fields  that  en- 
viron it),  fo  variegated,  fweet,  '^vd  foothing,  that  any  perfon 
of  tafte  and  ftufibihty  n  uft  fii  i  a  degree  of  relndaoee  in 
parting  with  it.  Frcm  this  to  the  farthcft  point  on  the  S.  W., 
the  ground  in  general  is  confiderably  elevated ;  producing 
what  is  commonly  called  a  bold  ibore.  Here  the  profpefi 
lifes  from  the  fimplicitj  of  woods,  creeks,  and  green  fields, 
and  fwells  into  the  majeftic  and  fublime.  If  ;on  take  an  in- 
land view,  you  have  an  extent  of  about  50  miles,  tetmtoated 
by  Caimfmoor,  the  hills  of  Carfpbaim  and  Qt^eeniberry. 

On 


rf  Rerrici.  47 

On  tannig  rooad,  you  have  lying  bc&re  70a  tin  Frith^  10 
kagoct  broad^  extending,  <m  the  left  hand,  about  30  oiilea  9 
aad,  oa  the  right,  until  it  is  loft  io  Cfae  Irifii  Sea.  On  the 
EogliOi  coafty  yoa  have  the  towns  of  jtbtnAyj  Mwyport, 
WvrUagt^n^  Herringtm^  Parton^  and  Wbittbavin^  with  cho 
iuerveniBg  fields  aod  hedges  :  AU  of  which,  except  {he  laft^ 
are  dlfttnfily  feen  by  the  naked  eye.  On  the  back  of  thefe 
appear  the  Cumberland  mountains,  towering  one  above  ano* 
ther ;  but  all  overtopped  by  the  lofty  Siidda  /  which,  how. 
ever,  ieems  lo  have  a  competitor  in  Criffle,  on  the  oppofite 
Iherc^  in  the  oeigliboarhood  of  Dumfries.  Thele  mountain* 
hiTe  the  eftft,  as  it  were,  of  throwbg  the  Frith  into  a  (hade, 
by  which  evo'y  objefik  is  more  diftindly  perceived,  and  the 
Vcaaty  of  the  whole  greatly  increafed.  From  the  point  of 
St.  Bee's  to  the  lile  of  Man,  lying  in  the  Irifli  &a,  is  an  ex* 
teat  of  xs  leagues  ;  and  from  thence  to  the  point  of  White- 
horn,  of  about  9 ;  the  whole  track  forming  a  curve  of  about 
90  osiles ;  which,  from  feveral  parts  of  the  pariffa,  the  eyo 
tan  take  in  diftinfily  at  once.  But  what  completes  the  gran« 
4eur  of  the  iceae,  is,  the  variety  of  veflels  that  appear  fcatteredi 
tvecy  where,  often  to'the  number  of  40,  50,  and  6o«  And 
IS  moft  of  the  ftations  from  whence  it  is  feen,  ftand  high,  and 
die  view  reaches  to  the  mouth  of  St.  George's  Channel,  and 
towards  the  north  of  Ireland,  (confequently  very  extenfive), 
the  vcflels,  by  a  well  known  law  in  optics,  feem  elevated  one 
ibove  another,  according  to  their  diftance^  till  the  fartheft  ap* 
pear  as  if  dropping  out  of  the  clouds :  So  that,  in  a  certaia 
ftate  of  the  atmofphere,  it  looks  like  an  immenfe  canvas  hung 
down  from  heaven,  widi  thefe  veflels  piftured  upon  it. 

7|^.-*The  tide  in  the  Frith  runs  from  £.  to  W.  with  cott«^ 
fiderable  rapidity.  Reafoning  from  analogy,  and  calculating 
from  appearances,  it  is  generally  concluded,  that  there  are 

3.  great 


48  Statifiical  Account 

great  plentj  and  variety  of  fifli  on  the  coaft,  thongh  httbifrttf 
there  have  been  no  fptrited  exertions  to  afcertain  the  truth  of 
this.  There  have  indeed  been  feveral  feeble  attempts  made 
in  the  Bay  of  Hefton,  which  have  proved  faccefsfol,  and  cor- 
roborated the  common  opinion.  Along  the  whole  ihore,  but 
partioularlj  about  Hefton,  there  is  plentj  of  ihell  fiih  of  the 
common  kinds. 

JlfiVr^o/i.— In  the  lands  of  Lord  M^Cartket*  ther«  xi  a  rich 
iron  mine^  which  was  opened  up  and  carried  on  for  fbme  time 
by  an  Englilh  company,  but  is  now  defifted  from :  Not,  how* 
«ver,  that  it  is  by  any  means  exhaufted  ;  but  owing  entirelj 
to  the  expence  and  inconvenience  of  (hipping  it.  The  coaft 
tvexy  where  abounds  with  free-ftone,  which  hath  bten  much 
in  requeft  of  late,  for  the  ornamental  parts  of  fome  of  the  moft 
elegant  houfes»  both  in  this  and  the  neighbouring  pariflies  ^ 
and  laft  year  it  was  carried  by  land,  at  the  diftance  of  11 
miles,  to  one  of  the  moft  magnificent  ftruftures  in  the  countiy. 
There  are  no  lefs  than  three  places  on  the  ihore,  which  have 
been  laid  open,  and  declared,  by  aft  of  parliament,  to  be  free 
ports,  viz«  Bakarryy  formerly  mentioned,  on  the  £,  ;  fnrt 
Mary^  (fi>  called  from  Mary  Queen  of  Scots  taking  ihipprog 
after  the  battle  of  Langfide),  on  the  S. ;  and  Mullock  Bay  onr 
the  S.  W.  The  firft  of  thefe  is  fafe  and  commodious  by  ta^ 
ture  ;  the  other  two  might  be  made  fo,  by  a  little  affifiance 
from  art ;  that  at  Port  Mary  efpecially,  by  expending  a  few 
hundred  pounds  upon  it,  might  be  rendered  inconeeivaUy  ad- 
vantageous. And  as  all  the  gentlemen,  whofe  properties  lie 
contiguous  to  it,  are  very  public  fpirited,  it  is  to  be  hoped^ 
that,  in  this  improving  age,  they  will  foon  take  up  the  matter 
in  a  ferious  light. 


Bf  Rerrick.  49 

Exports  and  Imports^  (^cr.-^This  is  the  more  earneftlj  to  be 
wiflKd  for,  fts  a  fpiric  of  improvemeot,  introduced  here  oalj 
tbout  a5  jears  ago,  is  ftiU  advancing;  and  confequently  the 
articles  of  export  and  import  are  dailj  mahiplying  aad  m«* 
creafing.  As  a  fpecim.ent  the  annual  importation  of  lime,  for 
the  purpofes  of  building  and  manure,  is  about  io,oao  bufliels  3 
bcfide^  confiderable  internal  refonrces  of  marl,  ibells,  and 
lea  flime.  And  there  are  exported/ at  an  average,  15,280 
ftones  of  meal;  116  tons  of  potatoes ;  8ba  buihels  of  barlejj 
aji  of  bear,  and  198  of  wheat« 

Cnltwatian  and  Improvenunts^^^Vfhtther  it  is  owing  to  the 
Ibil,  which  in  tnany  places  is  cold  and  fpuiigy,  or  to  its  ele« 
vation  and  expofure  to  the  fea,  even  where  it  is  dry,  in  a 
country  entirely  naked  with  refpe£t  to  wood,  or  to  the  want 
of  convenient  and  fuffioient  fubdivifioos,  or  to  whatever  other 
aiSgnaUe  caufe,  is  not  determined  j  but  the  farmers  do  not 
find  their  account  in  cultivating  the  laft  mentioned  article, 
(wheat)  ;  Co  that  very  little  attention,  in  general,  has  hitherto 
been  paid  to  it.  Thefe  inconveniences,  however,  with  many 
other  obftmdions  to  the  improvement  of  huibandry,  are  daily 
removing,  by  the  united  exertions  of  die  gentlemen,  in  pbnt* 
ingy  repairing  roads,  inclofing  ground,  and  binding  down 
tenants  to  certain  regulations.  The  yearly  fund,  denominated 
rmiilrtmmty^  is  about  40L  ;  which  is  often  confiderably  aug* 
mented  by  handfome  donations  from  fome  of  the  proprietors. 
And  fo  prevalent  is  the  laudable  ambition  of  wiping  off  the 
reproech  of  our  country,  in  refped  of  its  wanting  wood,  (hat, 
within  thefie  few  years,  there  have  been  planted,  in  the  parifli, 
upwards  of  170,000  foreft  trees  \  befides  fisveral  new  orchards, 
to  which  the  proprietors  are  paying  the  utmoft  attention,  by 
colle&iiig  ^ants  from  the  places  moft  noted  for  nurferies. 

Vol.  XI.  Q  Cattle. 


50  Statifikal  Account 

Caiife.^Bnt  wbile  the  gendemen  and  principal  fanners  are 
thus  ftudjihg  and  promoting  agriculture,  a  principal  fiiare  of 
their  attention,  and  that  of  the  tenants  in  genera],  is  ftill 
paid  to  black  cattle,  wbich  here,  as  well  as  over  idl  Galloway^ 
continues  to  be  the  ftaple  commoditj  of  the  country ;  and  no 
{Mirt  of  the  Stewartry  perhaps  is  fup^ior  to  feveral  farms  in 
this  corner,  both  for  rearing  and  fattening*  The  lands  be- 
longing to  Mr.  Ross  ^*Kl£  give  daily  proofs,  that  this  is 
neitiiet  a  partial  nor  a  ra(h  aflertion. — ^Th^  live  ftock  of  the 
whole  parilh  b  as  follows,  viz; 

Oxen,        -        -       1150  Horfes,        -        -        xgo 

Cows,        -        -         38:^  Sheep,  -        -      2383 

The  black  cattle  are  the  produce  of  our  own  country,  with  9 
iiDairniixtore  of  Highland  and  Iriih  brted.  The  horfes  are 
moftly  Galloways  j'many  of  them  are  reared  in  the  parifli, 
efpiicaally  6t  late  years,  fince  their  value  came  to  be  rated  fo 
high.  And  the  iheep,  (excepting  tbofe  in  the  hands  of  a  few, 
of  a  fttperior  kind),  ai^  the  defcendAnts  bf  the  old  inhabitants  of 
the  moors  and  mountain^,'  of  a  fmall  fisse  and  with  coarfe  wool ; 
the  beft  here  felling  at  15s.,  and  the  ordinary  run  at  iis.  and 
las.  per  ftbne ;  there  being  iio  Woollen  mannfadure  as  yet 
tn&td  ih,  this  country,  to  induce  the  fanners  to  pay  due  at- 
tention to  the  breed. 

Natural  Ctiriofities.-^Oa  the  march,  in  the  northem.comer 
of  the  pariih,  within  the  property  bf  Mr.  Douglas  of  Or:. 
chardtown,  there  is  a  fniall  ilreiim,  which  comes  gurgling 
down  from  the  mountains,  in  which  are  found  a  certain  kind 
of  little  ftones,  of  a  very  ftrikrog  figure  and  quality,  quite 
tranfparent,  with  a  faint  colour  of  purple,  and  fo  hard,  that 


tf  Rerrick.  51 

tlsey  wiUf  cat  glals'  like  a  diamond.  They  grow  on  th^  tocks 
that  overhang  the  rivulet  in  large  cluftersv.  about  |he  fize  of 
pin  headSf  where  thej  continue  to  vegetate  (as  nuajrbe  colkft* 
•d  £Fom  the  different  ftag'es  of  their  pr6grefs,  evidently  there 
to  be  feen)  till  they  are  near  an  inch  long  and  |  diameter; 
when  dropping  out  of  their  fockets,  they  fall  into  the.  water, 
and  inix  with  the  gravel  at  the  bottom  of  the  rill.  The  end 
that  lat  in  the  focket,  very  much  refembles  that  part  of  a 
tooth  which  fticks  in  the  ja^  \  the  other  end  of  moil  of  them 
is  tapered  ;  and  (which  .  is  the  great  and  inexplicable  pbenom 
siMoa),  are  cut  into  triangular,  quadrangular,  and  various 
ether  figures,'  as  neatly  and  diftinftly,  as  if  they  had  come 
through  the  hands  of  the  bed  lapidazy  in  the  kingdom.  Hoyr 
frequently  thefe  rocks  bring  to  maturity,  and  caft  off  their 
Jkgularjrmtt  whether  in  50,  xoo,  or  xooo  yeafs,  caiwot  be 
£0  much  as  gueffed  at* 

Papulation,  and  Z6ngevity*^^Tht  return  ttf  Dr.  Webfter, 
in  1755,  was         -  •         -         -         -        -  .      idjt 

The  prefimt  number  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  parifh  is    lojo 

I       ,  ■■■«■ 

i)ecr^a(e,  •  '^  x 

As  there  is  at  prefent  no  parilh  rcgifter,'  the  average  of  births, 
l^urials,  &c.  cannot,  with  any  precilion,  be  afcertained.  Thefe 
particulars,  however,  may  be  calculated  with  an  accuracy 
quite  fufficient  foir  any  pu'blic  or  political  purpofe,  from  the 
ample  data  already  afforded  from  places  where  regifters  are 
iept;  taking  into  confiHeration  this  circum  dance',  that  the 
people  here,  in  general,  enjoy  good  health,  and  maiiy  of  them 
long  life.  As  a  proof  of  this,  there  died',  within  thefe  laft 
S  years,  00  lefs  than  9  perfons,  who  had  all  arrived  at  the  ad- 
nnced' period  of  between  80  and  90.    And  at  this  day  there 

Gi  un 


jfa  Stati/Hcal  Account 

are  living  15  more,  who  fatve  nearlj  fttuioed  the  fame  age* 
One  woman  in  particular  is  87,  and  has  the  ufe  of  all  her 
fenfes  and  faculties. 

From  certain  ^pearances  it  might,  at  firft  view,  be  eon* 
duded,  that  this  parifh  had  decreafed  greatly  in  its  populatioa 
during  the  laft  50  years,  there  being  feveral  large  farms  now 
occupied  bj  one  tenant  only,  which  at  that  period  was  divided 
amcmg  many.  One  of  thefe  in  particular,  which  pays  about  500L 
does  not  contain  above  19  fouls.  And  there  are  5  other  fanast 
in  which  tradition  fays  there  then  lived  about  50  families  ; 
whereas  they  do  not  at  prefent  contain  above  30.  But  to  thefie 
plaufible  arguments  for  depopulation,  are  oppofed  the  follow* 
ing  fadls  :  In  the  ift  place.  There  never  was  any  emigradoa 
from  the  pariQi  during  this  half  century,  worthy  to  he  term- 
ed fuch  :  2dly^  That  akhough  in  the  farms  alluded  to,  there 
is  but  one  principal  family,  yet  they  are  generally  pretty  largc^ 
through  the  number  of  fervants  that  are  necefiary  to  manage 
them  :  3^,  That  although  the  two  villages  have  been  but 
litile,  yet  they  have  been  fomewhat  enlarged :  ^hiy^  That 
there  are  now  families  rcfd^rg  in  ieieial  other  places  of 
the  parifh,  which  formerly  were  wild,  and  without  an  in- 
habitant. 

Church,  \Jc^ — It  may  be  added,  as  no  fmall  prefumption  in 
favour  of  the  increafe  of  the  population,  that  the  parifh  chuA;h, 
which  was  enlarged  in  the  year  1743,  has  for  thefe  feveral 
yearb  been  too  fmall,  and  laft  year  received  a  coniiderable  ad- 
dition. At  tilt  fame  time,  the  manfe  and  office  houfes  were 
rebuilt  i  in  which  the  heritors  have  fhewn  their  generofity, 
and  poliiely  cx^jrefTed  their  refpcft  for  the  order  of  the  clergy ; 
which  example  is  fo  compleiely  imitated  by  the  tenants, 
and  everj  other  defcription  of  the  inhabitants,  that  no  member 
ot  tlie  church  oi  Scotland  need  be  happier  than  the  incumbent 

of 


of  Rerrici.  j  j 

of  Hurick.  And  this  is  no  temporary  effufiooi  extorted  by 
difiiiigiiiflied  merit,  or  s  tribute  paid  only  to  popular  talents  ; 
but,  like  a  natural  priaciple,  operates  fteadily  from  one  ge- 
neiation  to  another ;  founded,  probably,  on  this  very  fiogular 
cinomftance,  that  there  have  been,  not  only  no  violent  fettle- 
meats,  but  there  hath  never  been  fo  much  as  a  vacancy  in  the 
pariihf  fince  the  year  1691 ;  the  late  and  prefent  incumbent 
baving  bodi  been  fo  happy  as  to  be  the  unanimous  choice  o£ 
the  people}  having  been  ordained  ai&ftants  and  fucceflbrs 
to  their  refpeAive  predeceflbrs.  The  ftipend,  exclufive  o£ 
the  glebe,  and  the  allowance  for  communion  elements,  is 
83L  6$.  td. 

Poor* — ^The  funds  arifing  from  the  weekly  colleAions,  and 
a  few  donations  from  fome  of  the  humane^and  confiderate 
proprietors,  are  quite  fufficient  for  the  fupport  of  our  poor  9 
diere  being  only  6  on  the  roll,  that  are  regularly  fupplied,  and 
4  more  occafionaly  relieved*  And  it-  now  appears,  that  the 
aid  of  the  £effion  will  be  dill  lefs  reforted  to,  through  the  ready 
aietbod  of  earning  fubfiftence  in  fome  department  or  other  of 
the  jaanofaAures*.  This  is  one  of  the  many  advantages  flow- 
ing from  this  new  Iburce  of  indnftry  •  Amidft  thefe,  ho  wever, 
two  evils  are  to  be  dreaded :  The  one  is,  leaft  parents,  either 
from  needy  circumftanccs,  or  from  an  avaricious  difpc^ioo, 
ihould  negkft  the  education  of  their  children,  and  thereby 
facrifice  the  neceflary  information  of  their  minds,  to  the  fup- 
ply  of  their  own  tables.  The  other  is,  left  thofe  who  have 
the  principal  numagement  of  the  bufincfs,  and  the.  power  of 
hiring  and  difcharging  the  hands,  fliould  not  be  men  of  a  fin-' 

cere 


^Tndcfineo,  mcchaDicsy  sad  all  ibrto  of  labomcrf,  are  fo  fcarce»  anil  their 
«agci  aic  riiiiig  fo  lafidl/,  U>at  a  ftaodard  can  hardly  be  filed  for  the  fpace  of. 
^bikyiir. 


54  Staiifiical  Account 

ttte  regard  to  morals  and  proprietj  oT  oondafi.  If  thefi? 
things  are  not  carefully  attended  to,  thej  will  evideatly,  in 
the  loog-runi  eflentiallj  injure  fociet  j. 

&ioo2r.-— ^he  only  cfefcription  of  the  inhabitants  that  are 
deftitiite  of  the  neceiTary  means  of  fabfiftence,  are  oar  fchool- 
tkiafterSf  of  whom  we  have  twd,  one  in  each  vilhge/  which 
are  difiant  4'  £'ngli(h  miles.     Ihe  falary,  it  is  true,  is   the 
maximum  allowed'  by  law*  viz.  ill.  6s.  Sd.,  of  which  7I.   go 
to  the  fchoolmaftc^r  A  the  Abbey,  (which  is  looked  upon  as 
being  properly  the  parifli  fchool);  andlhe  remaining  4I.  6s.  8d. 
to  the  one  at  Aucheneairn.     Nothing  is  more  evident,  con-. 
fidering  the  advanced  price  of  every  article,  both  of  food  and 
iaimenty  than  that  t*he  above  fttm  is  inadequate  for  the  (Jiir* 
pofes  of  a  decent  and  comfortable  fubCftence ;  particularly 
when  it  is  reflefied  on,  that  the  population' is  fuch,  that,  when 
the  children  are  divided  between  two  fdhools,  neither  of  them 
can   be  numerous ;    and   more   efpecially,  when  it  is  con- 
fidered,  that  the  quarter's  wages  are  fo  low,  that  to^  opulent 
fieirmer  cait  have  his  child  waited  upon,  and  taught  Englifli,.  6 
hours  every  dayi^for  the  fom  of  4d.  a  month.  This  is  fo  glaring- 
an  inconfiftency,  that,'  to  the  honour  of  fome  of  our  proprietors,' 
to  whom  it  has  been  (hfewn,  they  have  declared  their  readi- 
nefs  to  enter  into  an  agreement,  with  the  reft  of  the  heritors, 
to  fupply  the  defed,  by  an  annual  voluntary  contribution.  At 
the  period  when  the  law  was  enaded  with  refpefi  to  fchool- 
mailers,  the  provifion  then  made  for  them,  bore  a  fuitable 
proportion  to  the  other  ranks  and  ftations  of  the  community  ;' 
but  now,  in  the  prefent  altered  (late  of  things,  it  is  indifput- 
ably  a  radical  defe&  in  the  police  of  the  country.     It  is  there- 
fore moft  devoutly  to  be  wiihed,  that  all  perfons  of  influence,' 
who  have  a  regard  to  the  rifiog  generation,  and  feel  in  their 
minds  a  veneration  for  piety  and  morak,  would  unite  their 

endeavours 
3 


of  Rerrick.  5  c 

endeavours  in  remedying  this  evil,  bj^iving  a  reafonable  eij* 
courag^menty  to  fo  ufeful  and  necefiarj  a  bodj  of  men. 


Frofrietors  and  Rent •-^Thexe  are  2  2  heritors  in  the  parifli* 
The  rental,  as  Hated  in  the  valuation  roll  of  the  county,  is 
5,9601.  Scotch  ;  and  the  prefent  rental  is  nearly  5,000!.  Ster« 
ling,  which  will  be  greatly  increafed  when  a  few  leafes  are 
expired;  there  being  lands  in  it  which,  about  15  years  ago, 
were  rented  at  Sol.,  and  which  now  let  for  260!.  Sterling. 
Indeed  it  u  not  eafj  to  fay,  to  what  fum  the  rental  of  the  pa« 
rifli  might  be  raifed,  if  the  proprietors  would  aflift  their  te* 
nants  in  fencing  their  farms  fufficieqtly,  throwing  them  into 
fmall  convenient  fubdivifions,  laying  them  out  in  good  heart, 
and  in  building  comfortable  and  commodious  faoufiss  f  • 

Former  andfrefent  State  comfared^-^Tht  people  here,  till 
of  late,  lived  what  may  be  confidered  a  kind  of  pq/lorailife  ; 
with  that  attention  to  agriculture  only  which  was  abfolutelj 
neceffary  to  mere  fubfiftence.  But  now  they  have  taken  a 
different  turn,  and  affumed  the  appearance  of  aAivity,  tafle^ 
opulence,  and  gaiety.  All  our  heritors,  except  4,  either  refide 
conftantly,  or  occafionally.  Several  of  thefe  are  among  the 
principal  heritors ;  and,  confidering  the  public  fpirit  and  tafte 
for  improvements,  which  gentlemen  of  their  ftation  now  aU 
pioit  every  ^here  cultivate,   and  the  diftinguiihing   figure 

which 


*  Of  all  the  plant  of  improTcment,  none  i«  more  necefiarf,  perhaps,  thaa 
proper  STaAwTAMBS  for  prooiriog  dung:  But  of  the  adTantages  of  thU,  neither 
preprtetort  nor  ccDaota,  in  general,  fcem  to  be  fviRcieotly  aware.  During  the 
winter,  there  are  fed  in  the  fields,  with  hay  and  draw,  no  lefs  than  1150  black 
cattle;  now,  if  the  dung  of  thefe  were  carefullj  coUedcd,  might  it  not  coq- 
tribute  greatly  to  increafe  our  ^antity  of  wheat,  and  enlarge  our  fields  oi  giceo 
btjpif^    ■ 


56  Statifiical  Account 

vehich  men  of  their  rank  now  make,  it  muft  neceflarilj  pro* 
duce  a  material  difference  in  the  face  of  things,  in  comparifba 
of  former  dajs. 


Manmfa&ures  and  Villages. ^-JWltzl  now  givei  a  profpeft  of 
oomfort,  afflnence,  and  importance  to  the  lower  clafs,  is  a  fpi« 
rit  of  cottoa  mamifa&ure  got  in  amongft  nt ;  which  we  hope 
will  in  time  lead  to  the  woollen.  Here  we  have  two  fmall 
villages ;  one  at  the  old  Abbey ^  and  another  at  the  head  of 
He/ton  Bay.  At  the  former,  a  few  fpirited  young  men  com- 
menced bufineb  laft  fummer.  At  the  latter,  a  company  of 
farmers,  headed  bj  a  patriotic  gentleman,  are  making  pre- 
parations for  beginning  \he  next;  having  fubCcribed  a  capital 
of  x,20ol.  for  that  purpofc.  The  machinerj  of  the  lad  men* 
tioned  place  is  to  go  with  water.  And  it  is  now  alfo  in  con- 
templation, to  ere&  a  fimilar  houfe  in  the  lands  of  Mr.  Cairns 
of  Dundrancn.  Clofe  bj  each  of  thefe  villages  runs  a  bom, 
with  water  fuf&cient  to  drive  pretty  heavy  machinery ;  and, 
as  their  founuin  heads  are  fcveral  hundred  feet  higher  than 
where  they  empty  themfelves  into  the  fea,  works  of  that  kind 
might  be  ere£led  alongft  them,  in  fuccef&on,  for  miles.  Se« 
fides  thefe,  we  have  other  three  not  greatly  infetior, 

Di/advantage.'^lRut  with  all  thefe  natural  advantages,  be« 
fides  the  exportation  of  fooh  a  furplus  of  gram,  and  our 
commodious  fituation  with  refped  to  harbours,  there  is  one^ 
and  only  one,  infuperable  barrier  to  the  carrying  on  of  mann- 
fadures  here,  to  any  confiderable  extent,  viz.  the  want  of 
fuel.  For  notwithftanding  our  large  and  numerous  moffcs, 
fttch  are  the  circumftances  (which  it  would  be  needlelii  here 
to  narrate),  that  peats,  to  the  generality  of  the  inhiibitants, 
are  nearly  as  high,  and  tea  times  lets  comfortable,  than  coals 

imported 


ef  Rerrtck.  ^j 

nnported  ^rom  England,  at  the  prefent  exorbitant  rate  of  aSs* 
and  30s.  the  ton* 

ProfpiQ  of  Relief — It  has,  however,  been  long  a  prevaQ- 

ing  opinion,  that  the  lands,  now  belonging  to  Mr.  JoHNSOif 

Hannah,  contain  a  complete  remedy  againft  all  thofe  evils 

mnd  inconveniencies.     Tbefe  lands  lie  upon  the  ihore ;  and  fo 

promifing  are  appearances,  that  veins,  3  inches  thick,  of  ex* 

cellent  coal,  are  found  among  the  rocks  at  low  water.     This 

public  fpirited  gentleman,  for  the  £atisfa&ion  of  the  public 

and  himfelf,  has  this  year  begun  to  give  it  a  fair  trial,  and 

has,  already  got  down  40  fathoms.     The  fymptoms  hitherto, 

are  neither  highly  flattering,  nor  have  they  given  the  leaft 

yeafon  to  defpair.     The  public  anxiety  for  the  event  is  not  to 

lie  defcribed.     The  eyes  of  the  whole  country  hang  upon 

him  in  eager  ezpe&ation  $,and  ^^  eris  tnihi  magnus  Apollo ^^ 

is  the  featiment  that  pofieiTes  every  mind,  in  cafe  he  fucceeds. 

Probable  Con/efitences.-^Tht  advantages  accruing  from  it,  to 
the  community  at  large,  would  be  very  great,  as  peats,  the 
principal  fuel  over  all  this  country,  feem  to  decreafe  in  pro- 
portion to  the  progrefs  of  agriculture  ;  many  of  the  mofier 
and  marlby  places  being  thereby  laid  dry  and  fertilized ;  and  th« 
bruih-wood,  and  other  combuftible  materials  cleared  from  the 
fields,  for  the  purpofe  of  tillage 9  the  demand  being  greatly  aug- 
mented by  the  increafe  of  population ;  and,  even  when  peats 
are  to  be  had,  their  value,  of  late  years,  is  rendered  extremely 
precarious  by  the  wetnefs  of  the  feafons.  The  benefit  coal 
would  produce  to  manufadures,  can  only  be  efiimated  by 
thofe  who  know  their  importance.  How  inconceivably  va* 
luable  might  it  render  the  rich  iron  mine  in  its  vicinity,  be« 
longing  to  Lord  McCartney  ?  And  how  beneficial  might  it 
jTove  in  faving  men's  lives  and  properties,  by  rendering  it 

Vol.  XI.  H  praSicablc 


^  Stati/iical  Accbunt 

prftfVitabhe  to  fupport  a  light-houfe,  ere£led  on   theiflando^ 
Hefton,  or  on  fome  prominent  part  of  the  coafl  ? 

.  Manners  and  CbaraSier.'^Ml  ranks,  both  in  their  appear** 
ance  and  manner  of  living,  make  a  very  different  figure  from 
their  ifiiQkediate  foreSthers.  The  fame  reafons,  that  account 
for  iimilar  changes,  that  have  taken  place  over  all  the  country^ 
will  no  doubt  apply  here ;  thefe  alterations  being  nowife  pe- 
culiar to  the  inhabttants  of  this  pariifa.  The  people  here,  in 
general,  arc  peaceable,  iiumane,  and  hofpitablc  ;  have  a  Kvely 
fenfe  of  decorum  and  charader  ;  and  many  of  them  give  in* 
dubitable  proofs,  that  their  minds  are  deeply  influenced  with 
tational  piety.  As  an  evidence  of  their  fobriety  and  tem- 
perance, there  are  not  two  men  in  the  whole  parifh,  who 
are  fo  far  enflaved  by  a  habit  of  drinking,  as  not  to  provide 
for  their  families,  notwith (landing  the  many  temptations 
they  are  expofed  to,  from  the  variety  and  abundance  of  fo- 
reign fpirits,  ilWgally  imported  on  the  coafl  ;  and  (what  is 
perhaps  the  caufe  of  a  lliil  more  general  debauchery),  the 
cheapnefs  of  whiiky.  In  refpeft,  both  of  civil  and  ccclefiafii- 
cal  matters,  the  inhabitants  may  jullly  be  faid  to  be  a  people 
who  "meddle  not  with  them  that  are  ^i«r<ff#ofi&fl«^^."  Thcfarm- 
ers  here,  as  well  as  through  the  country  at  large,  are  a  fet  of 
civ  lized,  converfible,  and  well  informed  men,  far  fuperior  to 
thofe  in  the  fame  (lation  in  many  other  places  of  the  kingdom. 
Their  line  of  buiinefs,  being  chiefly  in  the  cattle  branch,  by 
which  they  arc  often  led  out  into  the  world,  and  frequently 
Jnti  the  company  of  gentlemen,  who,  here,  arc  all  either  fpe- 
culative  or  praftical  dealers  in  cattle,  gives  an  illumination  to 
their  minds,  and  a  polifli  to  their  manners,  which  thofe,  in  a 
Jtocie  grain  country,  are  abfolute  ilrangers  to. 

jiniiquitielb 


Kf  Rerrick.  59 

^fttiquitifs. — With  regard  to  Druidical  tcmpks,  and  Saxon, 
^oman  or  Dinirti  caxps,  fo  mucii  has  already  been  f.iid,  m 
the  courCe  of  the  Statillical  Account,  that  any  farther  def- 
criptioos,  conjedures,  and  bold  uITcrtions,  mud  appear  trite 
to  mod  readers.  Of  the  former  there  are  2,  and  of  the  latter 
12;  befides  a  heap  of  lool'e  dones,  colieded  apparently  with 
great  fatigue,  on  th^  very  top  of  tiencairn,  whofe  fammit  is 
1,200  feet  above  the  level  of  the  fca. — In  the  bottom  of  a 
4ong  and  narrow  valley,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  fea, 
ftands  the  old  Abbey  of  Dundranen*  ;  a  minute  defcription  of 

H  2  which 


♦  It  may  here,  however,  be  ohTcrved,  th»t  according  to  lyi  extra6fc  from  the 
Chrwdt  f  \Ulrofsf  and  other  authentic  dacument!«,  it  was  founded  by  Fergus, 
the  fir  t  Lord  of  Gallowat,  in  the  year  1 141.  The  firft  poffeffors  came  from. 
Rcivell  in  Yorkfliire,  and  were  of  the  Cillercian  order*;  fo  called  from  Robeiit>« 
Abbot  of  CUeau-y  or  CifleoM.f  or  Cjflertium,  in  Burgundy;  who,  about  the  year 
Ig88,  made  a  fecond  refinement  on  the  principles  of  the  Benedidlines,  the  firil 
having  been  made  about  the  year  913.  That  the  monks  of  this  defcription  were 
Tcry  numerous  we  have  'hisftrong  evidence,  that  they  had  no  lefs  than  14  con- 
vents m  Scbtland,  four  of  which  were  in  Galloway^ 

The  firft  abbot  of  this  monaftery  was  one  Svlvanu^,  who  died  in  the  year 
I189.  In  the  year  1430.  we  find  one  Henrv  granting  a  charter  to  Henrt 
CuTLAfi  of  OrreianJ;  which  was  confirmed  by  Pope  Paul  lU.  in  1437.  Wc 
/lodanoiher  of  the  name  of  Tnoi^AS,  an  honour  not  only  to  his  country,  but  to 
the  age  in  which  he  lived.  Whether  it  was  he  who  wrote  the  Chronicle  of 
Melrofs,  it  not  aflerted ;  but  it  is  allowed  on  all  hands  that*  it  was  written  by  an 
abbot  of  Oundranen,  at  lead  the  latter  part  of  it.  The  laft  abbot  of  the  place 
wasEowARD  Maxwell,  fon  to  Joay  Lord  Harries,  who  herp  afforded  au 
afylum  to  Mary  Queen  of  Scots,  in  her  flight  from  the  battle  of  Langfide,  ir 
the  year  1568 ;  and  afcer  whofe  death,  King  J^mes  VI.  annexed  this  place  to 
fait  Royal  Chapel  at  Stirling.  The  revenue  of  the  abbey  about  this  time,  as  to 
the  money  part  of  it,  was  jocl.  Scotch ;  but,  according  to  the  mode  of  endowing 
/eIigioa»  houfirs  in  thofe  da) »,  this  muft  have  been  the  fmalleft  part  of  it- 
There  is  no  veftige  of  ^ny  tomb  deferving  notice,  though  it  is  certain,  that 
Allan,  Loxd  q£  Calloway,  firnamed  the  Gaeat,  Conftable  of  Scotland  (whofe 

^ughtcf 


^d  Statifiical  Account 

which  is  deemecl  totally  unneceflkrjr.  after  the  attention  lately 
paid  to  it,  both  hj  Mr.de  GA]tDOK£tL»  and  the  celebrated 
Qiptaiit  Gross. 


4aai(hter  Doftif  ao|lla  wu  mairied  to  Josn  Baliol),  was  buried  in  tbit  place 
in  the  year  1233.  Thefe  ate  moff  of  the  icanty  hints  that  are  now  to  be  glean* 
«d  from  authentic  records;  a  minute,  cotane^ed,  and  fatisfadory  accoimt,  ha  vine 
hitherto  balBed  the  refearches  of  all  our  modem  antiquarians.  And  no  wonder, 
if  what  is  ftciried  be  true ;  namely,  that  all  the  principal  papers  bdonging  tm 
this  houic  were  carried  ovtr  to  France. 


KUMBEIt 


?^^^-  it 

NUMBER    IV, 

PARISH    OF    URR. 
^County  of  Kircudbright — Synod  and  PreJbyUry  ofDumJries.y 


^  tie  Rfv.  Mr.  James  Muirhead  of  hoQjof^  Minifiir 
o/Urr, 


Situation  and  Nami. 

J.  HE  ptrUh  of  Urr  is  fituated  in  lat.  54^;  and,  from  a 
comp^rifon  of  the  tides,  appears  to  lie  abeat  30'  of  longitude 
weft  frovD  Leith.  The  antient  orthograph j  was  VR,  and  the 
prononciation  was  WUR.  or  WHUR,  thoagh  it  is  now  fre« 
quentlj  pronounced,  and  fometimes  fpelt  Orr.  From  this  lit-i 
tie  can  be  inferred,  unlefs  the  above  manner  of  pronouncing 
the  V  or  0  ihoold  fuggeft,  that  the  inhabitants  of  Gallowaj 
were  of  German  rather  than  Celtic  cxtraftion.  The  confi- 
derable  lake,  out  of  which  the  river  Urr  iflucs,  is  called  Lock 
Whor  to  this  daj.  There  are  alfo  fome  people  in  this  country 
fimamed  Macwhur :  But  even  this  leaves  the  derivation  of 
the  name  of  the  parifh  uncertain.  -  • 

Extent 


6z  Statiflifal  Account 

Extent  and  Rent. — The  length  of  Urr  parilliy  from    the 
inarch  of  Kirkpatrick-Durham,  nearlj  from  N.  to  S.,    is  at 
lead  13  Scotch  miles.     The  breadth  varies,  and  at  its  grqateft 
extent  fomewhat  exceeds  4  miles.     The  number  of  acres  the 
parifli  contains,  is  nearlj  12,030  ;  and  though  this  eftimate  is 
given  partly  from  acquaintance  with  the  adual  furveys  of 
fome  of  the  larger  eftates,  and  partly  from  computation,  it 
will  be  found  to  differ  but  little  from  reality.     The  grofs  rent 
yielded  by  this  tra6l  of  land  is  at  prefent  4,4461.;  nor  is  it  cx« 
travagant,  whilft  the  prefent  peace  and  profperity  of  the  coun- 
try remain  undiminiihed.     The  valued  rent  of  Urr,   or  the 
rule  by  which  it  pays  the  land-tax,  is  fomething  more  than 
5,oooL  Scotch  ;  and,  in  the  reign  of  Charles  I.,  this,  was  pro- 
bably an  adequate   rent   for  the  whole  pari(h.     It  may  here 
with  truth  be  obferved,  that  at  prefent,  through  all  Galloway, 
lool.  Scotch  of  valued  rent,  imjjlies  lool.   Sterling  of  real 
rent  ^  and,  in  the  generality  of  inAances,  a  good  deal  more* 

River  and  Fijb.—  From  Loch  Urr*,  where  the  river  fo  called 
arifes,  to  the  Ifle  of  Heftpn  (where  tj^e  ftream  is  loll  in  the 

So}waj 

f  Herp  it  may  not  be  altogether  improper  feo  gUnce  at  a  fmall  controYeiff 
fubfiftiog  betwixt  certain  relpedable  antiqiiai  ies.  It  has  been  coounonly  a^ 
ferted  that  Sir  Cbkistopuer  Seaton,  the  faithful  companion  of  Wallace, 
was  killed,  or  taken  prifoner,  at  a  place  called  Loch  Orc,  in  Fife.  The  ezifteoce 
qf  a  chapel  at  Dumfries  ereSed  for  the  very  purpofe  of  faying  mafles  for  hii 
^0ul,  led  fome  people  alfo  to  think,  that  though  Sir  Chiiftopher  was  apprehend- 
ed in  Fife,  yet  he  was  put  to  death  at  Dumfries.  Nov  the  fa£t  is,  that  at  Loch 
Whur.  or  Loch  Orr,  in  the  (lewartry  of  Galloway,  and  around  the  loch,  th^ 
$eaton  family  had  a  caflle  and  a  very  large  domain.  At  this  day  the  land-hold- 
crs,  in  that  neighb«tQrhood,  have  moft  of  the  old  invcftituies  of  their  eftatei 
from  the  Seatons.  Sir  John  Skaton  of  Barnes  feems  to  have  fold  the  re- 
jnains  of  the  family  pri>perty  in  Galloway,  fo  late  as  the  year  XJ96.  That  the 
gallant  ^ir  Chiiftopher  Seaton  loft  hjs  life  upon  the  eve  of  Brucc's  coming  ta 

Scotland^ 


hfVrr.  6  J 

Solway  Frith'),  is  a  courfe  of  more  than  ao  miles'.  The  wa- 
;  ter  of  Urr  ikirts  the  parifli  of  that  name,  fo  as  to  divide  it  from 
I  (hofe  of  Croflmichael  and  Buittle  ;  but  the  fource  of  the  river 
is  about  15  miles  farther  up  in  the  country,  than  the  fpot 
where  it  becomes  the  limit  of  this  parifh,  -as  already  mention- 
ed. Vcfiels  of  60  tons  find  the  Urr  navigable  up  to  Dal- 
b.'aty,  at  fpring  tides.  At  fmall  expence,  and  with  no  confi- 
derable  efforts  of  ingenuity,  this  navigation  might  be  improve 
ed,  both  by  bringing  it  farther  inland,  and  by  rendering  it 
more  commodions  for  imports  and  exports :  But  in  this  re- 
fpeft,  as  well  as  Jcme  others^  patriotifm  and  difinterefted- 
cefs  make  but  a  tardy  progrefs* — Beiides  pikes,  trouts,  and 
fome  other  forts  of  frefh  water  fifli,  this  river  affords  falmon. 
In  wet  fummers,  the  latter  are  had  in  confiderable  quantities  ; 
but  in  dry  feafons,  fea  fi(h  can  get  but  little  higher  than  the 
flow  of  the  tide.  The  price  of  falmon  here  depends  much  up- 
on the  quantity  taken,  as  little  is  fent  out  of  the  parifh.  Two 
pence  per  pound  was  the  average  this  year  ;  and  at  no  time 
are  fifli  fold  higher  with  us,  than  the  market  rates  of  Dum« 
fries,  or  of  Kirkcudbright,  from  which  towns,  Haugh  of  Urr 
is  equally  diftant. 

Soil  and  Cultivation, — The  foil  of  Urr  is  in  general  light, 
but,  at  an  average,  very  kindly.  The  upper  parts  of  the  pa- 
riiK  are  moorxih ;  but,  in  general,  capable  of  tillage  ;  and  it 
i>  believed,  the  arable  land  in  Urr  may  be,  to  that  which  can- 
not be  plowed,  as  12  to  i. — Agriculture  is  by  no  means  come 

to 

Hstland,  Is  niuYerraUy  admitted.  Now  the  probability  of  Seacon*t  bexog  yi 
I'-'c,  i»hen  the  patuiaDs  of  Bruce  expe^ed  that  prince  at  Dumfries;  the  pro- 
t^btlity  that  any  man,  fo  obnoxious  to  Edward  I.  as  Sir  Chriftopher  Seaton, 
i-  'lM  attempt  to  conccsl  himfelf  in  Fife^  rather  than  in  Galloway,  (which  at 
i^n  time  was  one  of  the  wildeft  diftrids  in  Scotlapd),  arc  matters  that  may  b« 
VC7  i-dicXj  left  to  cooixooB  fenfc  to  determine. 


^4  Statijical  Account 

to  perfedioOy  but  hath  greatly  improved  within  tbefe  lafl  30 
years,  and  rents  have  at  leaft  rifen  in  prop6rtion.  When  it 
as  told  the  public,  that  there  are  few  farms,  within  3  miles 
of  Urr  church,  that  have  not  been  let,  within  thefe  40  jears, 
for  one  tenth  part  of  the  rent  thej  now  yield,  the  aiTertioa 
maj  feem  improbable;  the  fad,  however,  is  incontelliblc^ 
and  very  adequate  caufes  may  be  af&gned.  By  the  perfeca- 
tion,  through  which  the  weft  of  Scotland,  in  general,  aod 
Galloway  in  particular,  fuffered  fo  much,  during  the  reign  of 
Charles  II.  the  minds  of  the  people  feem  not  only  to  have 
been  alienated  from  the  labours  of  agriculture,  but  from  every 
fpecies  of  bufinefs,  flanding  diftin£l  from  religion  and  politics. 
Even  the  revolution,  in  1688,  did  not  feem  to  affi>rd  abfolnte 
fecurity  againft  the  return  of  their  former  fufTerings*  As  this 
profped  filled  the  old  with  defpair,  it  fired  the  young  with 
refentment ;  and  hence  many  of  them  inlifted  in  the  armies  I 
of  Britain  and  Holland,  duting  the  wars  of  King  William  and 
Queen  Anne,  to  oppofe  the  return  of  a  family  whofe  principles 
they  dreaded.  Slowly,  indeed,  does  a  nation  recover  of  the 
wounds  made  by  civil  difcord.  It  is  not  yet  quite  100  years, 
fince  farms  in  this  neighbourhood,  that  now  pay  a  rent  of 
above  aooL  per  annum,  were  offered  at  the  church  doors,  to 
any  tenant,  who  would  pay  the  land-tax,  minidef  s  ftipend, 
and  other  public  burdens.  Let  us  be  cautious  how  fuch  timei 
are  brought  back.  With  a  government  that  exempts  us  from 
fuch  calamities,  we  (kould  not  wantonly  quarrel  *• 

From  the  year  1688,  to  the  year  1740,  agriculture  feejESj 
to  have  improved  but  very  little ;  and  the  value  of  land  to 
have  juft  kept  pace,  with  what  degree  of  peace  ana  profpcft 

of 

*  Farmers  ovght  to  be  part*cularly  cautious  in  countenancing  intcflinc  di^ 
•rden.  In  timet  of  prcfixrity  and  peace,  a  man  ma,,  be  richer,  and  maj  li«t 
more  comfortably,  paying  aool.  a  year  (or  a  farm,  than  he  ifi  oold  be,  to  tii&ei  4 
dVil  wwi  if  be  had  it  f  jr  no.hing. 

4 


ofUrr.  €s 

i>f  tratiqtuUity  the  countrj  eojojed.     la  the  year  1740,  how- 
ever,  (hell  marl  was  difcovered  in  Galloway  ;  and  the  abund* 
ant   crops,  produced  bj  the  ufe  of  this  manure,  encouraged 
the  landholders,  to  let  out  for  tillage  large  trads  of  land, 
^irbich  had  been  enclofed  for  the  purpofe  of  grazing  black  cat- 
tle.    A  fpirit  of  indudrj  began  then  to  be  diffufed  amongft 
the  tenantry  and  labourers,  which  was,  hawever,  confiderably 
cramped  by  the  vicinity  of  the  Ifle  of  Man,  with  which  the 
infaabitantB  of  Galloway  carried  on  a  coniiderable  fmuggling 
trade.     But  that  illand  having  been  made  fubjefi,  about  the 
year  1760^  to  the  revenue  regulations  of  Great  Britain,  it  is 
inconceivable  how  much  the  agriculture  of  every  pariib,  in 
the  maritime  parts  of  Galloway,  was  benefited  :    The  impor^ 
tation  of  lime  from  England,  by  water  carriage,  foon  became 
iieqoent;  (this  manure  is  now  carried  15  miles  up  into  the 
country  from  Dalbeaty  Port) ;  a  corn  trade  fprung  up  with 
Greenock,  and  other  towns  on  the  weft  coaft  of  Scotland,  as 
well  as  with  Whitehaven,  Liverpool,   and  Other  ports  molt 
adjaoent  in  England ;  and  the  profperity  and  opulence  of  this 
pariib,  as  well  as  the  vicinity,  have  ever  lince  continued  to 
improve^ 

Product  and  Black  Caitk — Oats,  barley,  a  little  wheat,  and 
black  cattle,  form  the  far  greater  part  of  the  produce  of  Urr. 
In  the  year  1782,  it  was  computed,  that  the  oats  and  barley,- 
ibid  out  of  the  pariib,  amounted  to  the  value  of  4,oooL  Po- 
tatoes aUb  form  a  confiderable  article  of  commerce^  efpecially 
with  the  Eogliib  ports.  As  to  the  number  of  black  cattle 
difpofed  of  yearly,  it  is  impoffible  this  can  be  fixed,  with  any 
precifioD,  as  many  farmers  keep  what  axe  caBed  running 
ftocks,  i,  i*  buy  in  and  fell  out  feveral  times  in  the  year.  Pro- 
bably, however,  if  every  farmer  was  to  breed  his  own  fale 
cattle,  the  parilh  might  produce  800  bullocks,  of  two  and  a 
half  years  old,  which  might  annually  be  fent  to  England,  or 

Vol.  XL  I  other wifa 


66  Statiftical  Account 

otherwife  difpofed  of.  The  verj  bcft  Galloway  balkldCp  at 
30  months  old,  will  weigh  from  30  to  35  ftones,  and  will  ielt 
at  71,  7s.,  or  at  81. 

Sbeep^'^The  flieep  kept  in  Urr  are  not  numetons*  Bj  t!ie 
beft  information,  there  are,  jaft  now,  abont  900  in  the  parilh. 
Thofe  kept  in  the  moor  farms  are  of  the  black  faced  kind. 
Tlieir  wool  confeqnentlj  is  coarfe^  On  the  farms  that  have 
been  well  cultivated,  the  Oieep  are  generally  of  the  Englifk 
breed,  and  the  wool  is  fine  and  more  abundant. 

Here  it  may  be  proper  to  obferye,  that^  in  the  reign  of 
James  VI.,  Galloway  was  underftood  to  produce  the  fineft 
Wool  in  Scotland,  perhaps  in  Britain.  William  Lithgow  fays» 
he  had  feen  finer  wool  in  Galloway  than  ever  be  fiiw  in  Spaim 
Even  to  this  day,  in  fome  particular  farms,  the  wool  is  re-* 
markably  fine,  and  of  a  brilliant  whitenefs.  The  iheep  from 
which  this  wool  is  cut,  are  white  faced,  rather  fmall,  and  in 
all  refpefts  feem  very  much  to  refomUe  the  (beep  of  the  Shet- 
land Ifies.  Finding  that  the  white  faced  (heep,  with  fine 
wool,  had  once  been  the  common  ftock  of  every  farm  in  Gal- 
loway, it  became  a  queftion^  Whence  the  black  faced  J^ep^ 
whofe  wool  is  fcarce  worth  cuttings  were  imported  f  But  no 
inveftigation  or  inquiry  upon  this  fubjed,  was  attended  with 
any  fiicisfaAion.  It  may  be  obferved,  that  Galloway,  in  its 
uncultivated  ftate,  abounded  with  goats,  which,  in  moorilk 
and  moiTy  traAs,  are  almoft  uniformly  of  a  black  colour. 
Now^  that  the  goat  and  the  (heep  cafily,  nay  commonly,  breed 
together,  is  undeniable ;  and  that  the  mules  fo  produced  are 
as  fruitful  as  either  the  feparate  breed  of  goats,  or  of  Iheep^ 
is  a  faft  that  cannot  be  difputed.  In  every  farm,  in  the 
wilder  parts  of  Galloway,  at  this  day,  where  flocks  of  goats 
and  iheep  are  kept,  at  no  great  diflance  from  one  another, 
every  fpring  we  fee,  among  the  Iheep  efpecially,  feveral  mong- 
rels^ 


of  Urn  67 

fdsy  wliieh  are  joft  carried  on  with  the  flock  of  lambs  to^  which 
dtej  bdcmg.    Now  the  goat^  in  the  wild  and  uncultivated 
parts  of  the  country,  is  an  animal  of  much  larger  bone,  and 
far  liardier  than  the  ibeep.     About  the  time,  therefore,  that 
James  VI.  left  Scotland,  and  when  the  manufa&ures,  com- 
merce aud  agriculture  of  that  kingdom  began  to  decline,  it  is 
highly  probable,  that  the  black  faced  breed  of  flieep,  (that  is, 
the  moogrela  above  mentioned),  might  he  encouraged,  fo  as  to 
fiock  the  greater  part  of  the  farms  calculated  for  flieep* 
Woollen  manufadures  having  fcarcelj  any  exiftence  in  Scot*' 
land,  and  the  Englifli  being  hardly  able  to  work  their  own 
wool,  the  only  objefts  that  could  intereft  a  Scotch  farmer,  as  to 
flieep,  were  the  eafe  with  which  they  could  be  pre&rved,  the 
flavour  of  their  flefli,  and  the  weight  of  their  carcafes.    In 
aU  tfaefe  refpefts,  the  mongrels,  bred  betwixt  the  flieep  and 
the  goat,  are  fuperior,  efpecially  to  the  fm^U  white  faced 
flieep  already  mentioned,  the  wool  of  which  was  of  fuch  un« 
common  finenefs.     The   mongrels  are  conflantly  black  faced, 
imd  in  their  form  differ  little  from  the  flieep  thus  diflinguiflied. 
Two  or  three  removes  might  indeed  produce  all  the  diftindion 
that  obtains.    This  qnongrel  breed,  (half  flieep  and  half  goat), 
however  much  they  might  fuit  ancient  times  of  barbarifm, 
ought  no  longer  to  be  preferved,  at  a  period,  when  the  proper 
management  of  flieep,  and  the  great  profits  of  flieep  farming, 
when  ikilfuUy  conduced,  are  fo  much  better  underftoodt 

Reptiles^  fiirds  and  Plants.'^The  animals  and  plants  found 
in  this  parifli,  have  in  ibem  little  of  fingularity.  The  fmiall 
and  deadly  CQluber^  fatd  to  be  found  in  Galloway,  has  very 
probably  eziflence„  though  this  reptile  may  be  rare.  This 
probability  is  admitted,  not  only  from  numerous  traditions, 
but  becaufe  the  writer  of  this  account  has  once  or  twice 
met  with  a  copper-coloured  {worm,  or  little  ferpentj  differing 

I  2  greatly 


68  Staii/iical  Account 

greatlj  from  bnth  the  viper  and  the  common  Uikd  worm*  Hie 
heads  of  thefe  fingnlar  reptile^  ware  fo  much  brutfedt  in  tha 
killiqg  of  them*  that  it  was  impoffible  to  difleft  theai*..-.SeveT 
ral  fpecies  of  birds,  not  formerly  known  in  this  country,  feem 
lately  to  hare  taken  up  their  abode  in  it.  Amongft  thefe 
are  the  bullfineht  and  gold-crefted  wren,«-Bat  thongh  many* 
exotic  plants  grow  very  well,  upon  being  introduced  here,  it 
has  not  been  learned^  chat  the  wind,  the  tide,  or  any  fortui* 
tous  caufe,  has  increafed  of  late  the  lift  pf  indigenous  vege- 
tables,. 

3fur«ra/r— The  natural  produdions  of  Urr  pariQi  need 
hardly  to  be  mentioned,  differing  little  from  thofe  which  are 
found  generally  throughout  the  'ftewartry  of  Galloway* 
Shell  marl  there  is  in  abundance  ;  but  that  whiqh  could  be 
dug  at  the  cheapeft  rate  being  exhaufted,  the  eafe  of  procur- 
ing lime  from  England  renders  the  marl,  which  lies  deep,  of 
little  value.  Lime-ftone  too  there  is,  but  of  fo  hard  a  na^ 
ture,  that  it  is  not  meddled  with,  the  rather  as  coal  cannot 
be  had  to  burn  it.  For  the  fame  reafon,  the  abundance  of 
iron  ore  remains  an  ufelefs  gift  of  nature.  The  growth  of 
wood|  more  efpecially  of  the  Scotch  £r,  the  oak,  afli,  elmt  &c. 
(trees  with  which  the  face  of  this  country  was  once  covered), 
is  exceedingly  rapid  f :  And  if  the  prefent  unpopular  tax  on 

coals 

*  Wer«  we  to  fiatf ,  as  natural  curtofiticf,  the  great  number  of  large  booes, 
of  various  animals^  now  extin&  even  as  to  fpecict ;  the  immenfe  heads  of  ozeq, 
pr'bbably  irri ;  and  the  horns  of  deer,  larger  than  any  now  found  in  Europe,  a 
gteat  deal  might  be  wrote,  with  not  much  gratification  to  curiofity.  Suffice  it 
to  fay,  that  almoft  every  marl  pit,  or  peat  mof^,  in  the  parifli,  has  at  times 
produced  bones,  heads,  &c.  fuch  as  the  above  mentioned. 

f  One  inftance  may  be  given  of  this,  inflead  of  many.  In  the  year  2766,  Mr. 
Copland  of  Collicfton  planted  about  60  acres,  of  very  wafle  land,  near  the 
village  of  Dalbeaty.    For  thefe  4  years  now  pad,  Scotch  Crs,  to  the  value  of 

liol' 


ofUrr.  69 

cools  from  Cumberland  coi\tinues,  proprietor$  will  be  forced 
to  plant  in  every  farm  what  will  afford  a  refource  as  to  f)ie)^ 
at  leaft  this  would  be  th<^ir  intereft. 

^jift^iMf/.— In  this  parifl)  there  are  few  of  anj  importance; 
Several  moats  and  fortified  camps  are  to  be  met  with,  both  ia 
Urr,  and  in  the  adjoining  part  of  Buittle.  Thefe  moats  ap« 
pear,  however,  to  be  Daniih  or  Britifh  works,  rather  than 
Roman*  Tradition  itfelf  hath  Ipng  been  filent  as  to  their 
origin.  Earthen  urns,  filled  with  calcined  bones,  are  fre« 
quentlj  found  in  this  neighbourhood.  Bpt  the  burning  dead 
bodies  was  a  cuilom  common  to  the  Romans  with  the  north- 
cm  nations.  The  Moat  of  Urr  is  perhaps  the  largeft  work 
of  the  kind  in  Scotland.  It  ftands  on  the  wefl  bank  of  the 
river,  about  half  a  mile  below  Urr  church,  A  furvey  and 
drawing  of  this  moat  would  have  been  here  given,  had  this 
coniified  with  the  plan  oi  the  work  for  which  this  article  is 
written.  Though  the  ditches,  and  the  confirudion  of  Urr  Moat 
in  general,  are  bj  no  means  Roman,  yet,  about  30  years  ago, 
fome  outworks  remained,  fecmingly  erefted  by  that  people. 
Thefe  optworks  adjoining  to  Urr  Moat,  and  havipg  fome  re- 
lemblance  to  the  Roman  mode  of  fortifying,  were  placed  up- 
on a  rifing  ground,  where  the  moat  itfelf,  (fteep  in  other  parts), 
is  conneded  with  the  furrounding  plain,  upon  a  levis  afcen/us^ 
fuch  as  thofe  where  Csefar  fo  often  awaited  or  invited  tlie  at- 
^cks  of  the  barbarianfl^y  obtaining  decifiye  vidory  from  an  al- 

moil 


150I.  per  aosvm,  hvft  been  fold  out  of  this  plantation^  for  fupporting  the  coal 
auaes  10  Cumberland ;  not  to  fpcak  of  a  prodigious  number  of  treei  deftroyed 
bf  the  accidental  firing  of  the  heath,  in  the  year  1781,  and  a  conftderable  num- 
ber (bid  to  the  neighbourhood.  For  thefe  so  yeara  to  come,  it  it  computed  cheTc 
Scotch  firs  may  produce  the  above  annual  revenue ;  not  to  mention  the  d^dnoat 
wood,  which  is  not  yet  fit  for  cutting. 


70  '    Statifiical  Account 

fiioft  imperceptible  advaottge*   X^^^  oatworlu  lni?e|  widitii 
thefe  lo  yearsi  been  obliterat64  by  the  plough*. 


Pq/ttlation, 


*  More  dedfire  prooft,  hoveTer,  lead  in  to  bdiere,  that  the  RoaiaM  ban 
vifited,  and  perhapt  made  feme  ftay  in  this  part  of  ScotUmd,  At  Mill  of  Bait* 
tk,  about  half  a  snik  weft  from  the  moat  already  meotioned,  there  were  feud, 
leveral  yean  ago,  three  feudl  (ilTer  coini  fffitrui)  one  of  Tibbkxoi,  one  of 
Hadkian,  and  oKe  of  Commodvs.  The  two  laft  of  thefe  coioi  were  givea,  hj 
the  prefent  minifter  of  Urr,  to  Mr.  CARi^0MNEL,.aii  ingeniont antiqaary of 
Edmbnigfa.  In  the  eftate  of  Mr>  MAZfrKi.L  of  Mimlhet,  alfo  wbtmt  a  nuk 
tnd  a  hi^f  S,  W.  of  the  moat,  there  were  fonnd,  not  long  ago,  feveral  kgiooarr 
fpeara»  made  of  a  very  hard  kind  of  brali.  They  were  nearly  of  the  Dune  w> 
del  with  thole  in  the  Advocates*  Library  of  Edinburgh;  but  the  labonriog  peo- 
ple who  fottnd  them,  miftakiag  the  hard  brafs  for  a  more  precious'  metal,  thefe 
Ancient  weapons  were  molUy  broken ;  though  |  beliete  feme  of  them  yet  remsin 
entire  at  Manflies*  Upon  the  whole,  it  feem^  probable,  that  the  moat  of  Un 
may  have  been  in  the  poflei&on  of  the  Romans,  though  not  an  eredioo  of  tbein. 
If  it  was  a  Britiih  town  or  fort,  which  the  Romans  converted  Into  cme  of  tbeir 
fiativa,  there  would  be  in  it  fufficient  fpace  for  accommodating  a  legioo,  with 
auxiliaries.  More  than  half  a  mile  te  the  £.  of  this  fpot,  within  the  eibte  of 
Redcaftle,  there  is  a  mde  block  of  granite,  ftaoding  upright,  in  a  plain  fieU : 
•bont  14  feet  of  the  fione  a  1  pear  above  the  foil,  and  very  probably  J  «r  6 
feet  are  funk  in  the  earth ;  bnt  what  perfon,  or  what  event  this  monument  of 
antiquity  was  meant  to  commemorate,  no  mortal  pretends  to  lay,  tradition  itfdf 
being  filent  on  thefuhjeS. 

If  any  thing  were  to  be  added  to  the  fmall  number  of  amiqnitiesbelongiDg  ta 
this  pariih,  we  might  mention  the  ruins  of  feveral  Roman  Catholic  chapeb, 
lituated  within  the  ancient  domain  of  the  honourable  family  of  Htnaiis ;  and 
the  tomb-ltones  of  thofe  who  periihed  by  military  execution,  during  the  infstu* 
ated  reign  of  Charles  11.  Thefe  ftones  hare  from  time  to  time  been  kept  in  re- 
pair, by  the  friends  of  that  caufe  in  which  the  fufferers  periihed  ;  and  whtlft 
there  was  a  PrHemder  to  the  throne  of  Britain,  each  of  the  above  fepokhrsl 
monumentt  was,  to  governmenc,  aa  good  as  n  confiderable  military  force  io  this 
part  of  the  country. 

2 


of  Urr.  yi 

Pofmlatwm. — ^The  littmber  of  fouls  in  Urr,  at  Whitfusday 
laft,  above  to  years  of  age,  was         *•  -  .         ^j 

Aod  under  that  period  of  life,  -  •         -         357 

In  all,        -        .         1354 
The  recum  to  Dr.  Webfter,  in  1755,  was,        -         -     ixj^3 

Increafe,         -         -     z6i 

Though  the  prefent  minifter  of  Urr  could  never  diiicover 
any  roll,  drawn  up  by  his  immediate  predeceflbr,  diftindlj 
fpecifying  the  number  of  inhabitants  in  the  parifli,  yet  he  ta 
aflured  by  the  precentor,  who  did  his  duty  alfo  under  the  fot^ 
mer  incumbent,  that  about  25  years  ago,  the  whole  number 
of  people  in  Urr,  of  all  denominations,  hardly  amounted  tp 
900.  This  account  of  matters  appears  perfeftly  credible. 
The  villages  in  the  parilh  have  almoft  all  arifen,  within  thefe 
laft  I  a  years ;  and  the  inhabitants  of  thefe,  and  of  fundry 
foudl  &rms,  lately  cut  off  from  larger  pofieffions,  being  fab- 
traded  from  the  population  of  the  parifli,  as  above  (la ted» 
there  is  hardly  a  remainder  of  900  *•  It  waj  here  be  alked^ 
whence  the  increafe  of  population  above  flated  has  arifen, 
cfpecially  in  a  diftrifi  of  country  where  no  mannfaAures  are 

eftabliflied, 

•  Owing  to  the  oomber  of  DliTenten,  as  well  ts  to  the  confideraUe  extent 
of  the  parifli,  it  ia  impoffihle  to  be  putkiilar  as  to  Biktbs  and  Bxatss.  la 
a  trad  of  aowitry,  14  miles  loog  by  5  miles  broady  or  more  in  ibme  place? » 
it  woold  be  exceedingly  incoorenient  to  bring  to  church,  (efpedallf  in  winter), 
mCittts  of  a  few  days  otd.  Owing  to  this,  the  prefent  miaifter  has  not  baptifed 
tcQ  children  ia  the  chorch  during  hit  incumbency  (as  years).  And  very  few 
marriagea  haw  been  folemnixed  in  the  church  during  that  fpace.  Thus  it  be- 
csoiea  impoCble  preci(ely  to  fix  the  annual  number  of  baptifms  and  marriages : 
Aod  to  iay  the  truth,  thofe  whidi  are  Iblemnixed  out  of  the  church  are  but 
csrekfsly  recorded.  As  to  Bukxals,  no  record  of  them  was  ever  kept.-— The 
Dales  are  confiderahly  more  numerous  than  the  females.  The  want  of  labourers 
b  a  wide  country,  where  the  proprietors  are  moftly  or  all  affluent,  the  influx  0£ 
Iriflmieo,  driTen  from  home  by  tythes,  Sec.  and  the  eafineis  of  fubfiftence,  render 
ihe  anquiiitioo  of  male  citiaens,  fiich  aa  they  are,  daily  and  abundant. 


^i  Statifiical  Account 

c(Ubli(bed,  or  at  leaft  none  that  can  encourtge  populatioa  to* 
any  perceptible  extent  ?    In  aafwer  to  this,  it  may  be  obferv* 
ed,  that  the  convenience  of  fuel  feems  to  be  one  ^reat  caixfe, 
why  the  number  of  inhabitants  rapidly  increafes  here,  wfailft 
{topulation  continues  at  a  ftand,  or  rather  diminifhes^  in  the 
parifhes  adjacent.     In  moff  parts  of  Galloway,  and  efpeciallr 
in  the  flat  country,  and  on  the  Tea  coafi^  the  moiTes  are  either 
entirely  worn  out,  or  dug  fo  deep,  that  they  ftand  covered  with 
i^ater ;  nor  arc  the  proprietors  very  attentive  to  the  draimng 
of  fuch  modes  as  are  in  this  fituation.     Coals,  indeed  ibxghc 
be  had  from  England,  at  the  rate  of  about  4d«  per  cwc.^  m 
the  courfe  of  fair  trade  3  biut  then   a  very  ill  judged  tax^  on 
coalt  carried  coaftxiifc^  precludes  this  advantage,  which  equal- 
ly points  at  the  improvement  of  navigation^  manufa&ures  and 
agriculture.     If  we  add  to  the  duty  on  Coals  catried  couft- 
wife,  as  aftually  paid  to  government,  the  infoUna  of  cuflom. 
faoufe  officers^  and  the  vexatious  manner  in  ^hich  they  reduce 
their  inftrudions  to  practice,  it  may  be  averred  fafely,  that 
the  cwt.  of  coals,  that  could  be  had  for  4d.  at  farthefi,  ftatfds 
the  confumer  abcfve  a  Jhilling.     Frequent  and  continned  ap- 
plications have  been  made  to  governmcut  for  takhig  oflT  this 
^x,  equally  pernrciotts  and  impolitic.    One  anfwer,  however, 
has  conllancly  been   made  to  all  complaints  on  this  fabjed : 
What  tax  will  you  put  in  place  of  the  duty  upon  coals  carried 
coaflwfe  ?  or.  How  do  yon  propofe  to  remunerate  government 
for  th^  diminution  of  revenue  thus  occajionedf     One  can  bard* 
ly  obviate  fuch  a  childifli  difScuhy,  without  being  fomcwhat 
ruffled.   Tliere*is  not  one  fenfible  man  in  Galloway,  who  will 
^or  can  deny,  that  if  the  tax  on  coals  had  been  fupprefled  id 
years  ago,  the  king  would  have  had  io,ood  fubjefts  more  in 
the  maritime  part  of  this  country.     Now  the  taxation    oa 
ihefe,  making  the  cftimate  at  only  aos,  a  head,  muft  have 
yielded  government  ten  times  the  tax  in  queftion.     How  the 
intereft  of  the  cijlom-huvfi  might  have  Hood,  is  acc:hcr  quc- 
'  Hion. 


ofVrr.  '  73 

fttoa.  Ererj  man  (it  has  b^a  obferved),  who  can  have  a 
fimilj,  will  have  one ;  but  a  fingle  difficulty  maj  be  ai  effec- 
tual as  a  hundred.  If  to  what  has  been  already  obferved, 
we  add  this  unqueftionable  truth,  -that  nine  tenths  of  the 
dtf^afes,  which  afRift  the  poorer  part  of  the  people,  are  thofe 
of  debility,  and  chiefly  arife  from  cold,  it  can  hardly  be  won« 
dered  at,  that  the  above  tax  has  been  produftive  of  confideraUe 
difcontent,  and  much  emigration. 

VUlages.^^f^MVX  II  or  I J  years  ago,  the  village  of  haU 
heatj  was  begun,  by  Alexander  Copland  of  Kings  Grange,  and 
George  Maxwell  of  Munfhes,  Efquires,  on  both  fides  of  a 
rivulet,  called  Dalbeaty  Bum.  This  village  affords  one  of 
the  bed  lituations,  for  a  cotton  or  woollen  manufaSure,  that 
could  even  be  wiflied  for.  The  gentlemen  already  mention- 
ed feued  houfes  and  gardens  at  a  moderate  rate  ^  and  to  every 
feuer  an  allotment  was  made  for  perpetuity,  in  the  lai^ 
mofleSi  not  far  from  the  village.  The  rapidity  with  which 
this  village  has  increafed,  and  the  diftance  from  which  feuers 
haTe  come,  plainly  demonftrate  how  -much  the  tax,  upon 
coals  carried  coaftwife,  prevents  population  in  this,  and  doubt* 
lelt  in  other  parts  of  Scotland.  In  other  places  of  Urr  pa« 
rifli,  villages  are  begun,  but  they  advance  flowly ;  for  the 
chief  refource  they  have,  as  to  fuel,  is  the  remainder  of  the 
peats  that  can  be  fpared  by  MeiTrs.  Maxwell  and  Copland, 
after  accommodating  their  own  feuers.  This  refource  muft 
fail  as  the  village  of  Dalbeaty  enlarges  >  and  already  many 
farmers,  as  well  as  feuers,  in  the  pariih,  have  their  peats  to 
lead  from  3  to  5  miles  dillance*  In  one  word>  it  is  not  chi- 
merical to  fuppofe,  that,  in  to  years,  want  of  fuel  might 
drive  a  great  proportion  of  the  people  in  this  parifh,  to  Ame- 
rica, where  indeed  a  great  number  of  familieS|  that  emigrated 
from  hence,  are  already  fettled. 

Vol.  XL  K  J^phj/mtnts. 


74  Statiftkal  Account 

Emplojfments.'^^Tbougli  agrknlture  is  the  cbief  chjtSL  of 
indoflrj,  yet  there  are  a  confiderable  number  of  people,  wbcr 
follow  mechanical  profeiEons.  There  are  about  ao  weavetft 
in  the  parifh.  Other  tradefmen  too,  fuch  as  mafons,  joiners, 
Smiths,  flioenakersy  &c.  hold  fullj  as  great  a  proportion  to 
the  total  population,  already  dated,  as  could  well  be  ezpefied. 
Enliftments  in  the  army  are  very  rare ;  not  above  2  or  3  of 
the  natives  of  Urr  having  difpofed  of  themfelves  in  the  mill* 
tary  line  for  thefe  20  years.  At  prefent,  few  charaders  much 
tainted  with  idlenefs  or  diflipation  are  to  be  found  heref  of 
abiblttte  profligacy,  there  is  not  one  known  at  prefent. 

Provifitms  and  Wages. — The  prices  of  grain,  beef,  mutton, 
and  proviiions  of  all  forts,  are  eftimated  in  Urr  at  die  rate  o£ 
the  Dumfries  market. — As  the  encouragement  for  labourers, 
in  the  line  of  agriculture,  is  confiderable,  Bumufafiures  have 
not  as  yet  been  much  thought  of.  Though  fome  parts  of  the 
parifli  are  well  peopled,  others  are  not.  Even  to  this  day, 
there  is  hardly  in  it  one  human  creature  for  ten  acres  of  land. 
Much  wafle  ground,  tlierefore,  is  yet  to  be  incloled  and 
cultivated.  The  wages  of  labourers  are  high,  and  they  are 
well  paid.  Day  labourers  can  earn  from  xs.  to  is.  6d«  fer 
dtem.  Men  fervants  have  from  4I.  4s.  to  41.  xos.  in  the  half 
year,  and  fome  5I.  Women  fervants  have  from  xl.  5s.  to 
xl.  15s.,  and  even  2I.  per  half  year.  What  is  called  a  cottar» 
or  farm  fervant  has,  by  the  year,  as  follows  : 

X.  60  buiheU  of  corn,  valued  at  i6d.  pa:  bu(hcl,        -      L.5    o    o 
a.  A  houfe  and  yard,  at-         »         -         •         -xoo 

3.  A  cow,  kept  tummer  and  winter,         -         •         -        ^  xo    9 

4.  Three  peckt  of  potatoes,  fet  with  the  mafter's,         -        s  XO    o 

5.  A  fiieep  at  Martinmas,  or  in  lieu,  a  fwine  grazed,      -      O  xo    o 

6.  Waget  for  the  year,  in  money,  -       .  -  -         »    o    o 

L.  13  20    o 

Some 


i>f  XJrr.  7^ 

'Some  ptople  (but  ver  j  few)  are  difpofed  to  give  lefs  wages, 
and  to  put  up  with  more  indifferent  fervants,  than  the  above 
fates  of  hire  would  procure ;  but  fuch  econom j  feldom  proves 
advantageous.  In  a  word,  there  are  few  counties  in  Scotland, 
where  the  labouring  poor  have  lefs  caufe  of  complaint,  than 
in  the  ftewartry  of  Gallowaj ;  and  it  muft  be  owned,  that 
they  are  honeft,  happy  and  contented  accordingly.  Mechanics 
in  general  work  by  the  piece  \  their  gains,  therefore,  in  a 
daily  feofe,  cannot  be  precifely  afcertained.  Tailors,  indeed, 
work  moftly  by  the  day:  Their  wages  are  8d.,  with  viduals, 

ManufaSures^  \3c. — Only  one  manufadure  has  been  hither- 
to elUbliflied  in  Urr.  It  is  that  of  paper.  The  neceffary 
machinery  and  repofitories  were  ere&ed  at  Dalbeaty,  on  the 
the  eftate  of  Alexander  Copland,  £{q.  fome  years  ago.  Thia 
work  has  profpered  abundantly.  Indeed  it  is  conduced  by 
the  proprietor  of  the  paper  mill ;  a  perfon  fo  prudent,  fo  Intel- 
ligent,  and  fober,  that  it  is  believed,  few  concerns  would  go 
wrong  with  him.  There  is  alfo  a  lint  mill  at  Dalbeaty, 
which  is  well  conduced,  and  has  its  full  ihare  of  what  bufr. 
nels  the  country  affords  in  that  branch.  This  vicinity^  how- 
ever,  and  the  weft  of  Scotland  in  general,  feem  by  no  means 
lb  fit  for  the  growth  of  flax,  as  the  eaftem  diftrids  are.  The 
copious  rains  that  fall  in  Galloway  render  it  one  of  the  beft 
counties  in  Britain,  for  rearing  and  feeding  cattle.  Even  when 
unexpeded  and  (evere  droughts  happen,  (nor  is  this  feldom 
the  cafe),  the  abundance  of  excellent  .fprings  make  confider* 
able  amends  for  the  hardfhip.  But  as  the  heavy  rains  are  a 
difadvantage  in  the  rearing  of  flax,  the  droughts,  in  a  light  and 
dry  foil,  are  the  deftru&ion  of  this  commodity.  In  this  pa- 
riih,  therefore,  it  is  not  probable  the  culture  of  it  will  increafe, 
whilft  grain  pays  the  farmer  at  the  prefent  rate.  The  abfurd 
cuftom  of  fixing  a  rate  of  wages,  at  which  (ervants  and  other 

K  2  labourers 


% 


j6  Statifiical  Auount 

labourers  are  obliged  to  workt  is  serer  thotfgbt  of  io  tlus 
Deigbbourhood.  People  of  better  conditioQ  think  of  wbft( 
tbej  can  afford  to  execute,  and  fervants  and  labourers  are  iofc 
to  their  own  judgment,  as  to  what  they  will  undertake.  Thus 
in  all  things  oecefTarj,  labour  and  reward  meet  one  aootber 
on  equitable  terms. 

.  Health  and  Zongtoity.'^As  the  occupations,  followed  hf  th# 
people,  are  not  prejudicial  to  the  health,  fickne£i  is  not  fre« 
quent,  efpectalljr  of  late  years;  and  fince  the  hoiiles  of  the 
tenantry  and  labourers  were  built  of  better  materials,  and 
rendered  more  convenient,  warm  and  cleanly ,«-~more  parti- 
cularly, iince  thefe  dwellings  were  improved,  the  burials  of 
infants  have  decrea&d  in  a  fnrprifing  proportion.  The  di£« 
eafes  nfually  prevalent  are  thofe  arifing  from  cold,  hard  la« 
hour,  and  other  debilitating  caufes  ;  and  fuch  diftempera  acie 
fou'md  to  yield  readily  to  ftrengthening  medicines.  There  is 
one  furgeon  in  the  parifli,  who  pra£lifes  through  feveral  other 
pari(hes  adjacent,  ^ttornies  we  have  none.**Aj  not  onlj 
the  labours  ufually  followed,  but  the  air*  and  climate,  are 
friendly  to  health,  longevity  is  not  uncommon.  Within  thefe 
X5  years,  feveral  perfons  have  died  at  the  age  of  xoo,  or  above 
it.  One  Peter  Buchanan  died  in  the  village  of  Dalbeatjr, 
about  xo  years  ago.  His  age  could  not  be  exa&ly  fixed  ;  but 
this  much  is  certain,  that  he  was  above  XI5  years  old.  He 
was  furprifingly  healthy  and  aQive  to  the  day  of  his  death, 
and  died  of  about  half  an  hour's  fickoefs.  There  arc  juft 
now  two  or  three  perfons  in  Urr  aged  90,  and  feveral  above 
fourfcore.  Even  at  the  age  of  70,  or  above  it,  it  is  notiiiK* 
ufual  to  fee  a  labourer  fubfifting  himiielf,  and  earning  the 
ufual  day's  wages  :  Nor  is  there  a  poor  perfon  in  the  parifli^ 

who 

«  Upon  fair  experiment,  it  Trill  be  found,  th»t  the  thcnnomcter  ilaads higher 
'in  this  part  of  Gallovrsy  (tmwnmiktu  UtiusJ^  than  it  does  mt  London. 
•  5 


vho  ddes  not  nuke  fome  exertions  in  the  waj-  of  induSiy, 
excepting  one  or  two,  who  are  quite  fuperannuated. 

Cburcb^  School,  and  Poor.-^The  minifter's  (lipe^d  is 
Sjl.  6s.  8d.|  with  an  allowance  of  jl.  for  communion  ele« 
Qoeats  :— -aoo  merks  Scotch  (or  iiL  as.  ^rsd.  Steding)  are 
allotted  for  fopporting  the  parifli  fchool  \  but  the  large  extent 
of  the  parifli  has  occaiioned  even  this  fmall  fum  to  be  divided. 
— There  never  was  any  poor's  rate  in  the  pariih.  There  are 
at  prefent  8  or  9  individuals,  who  receive  from  the  funds 
of  the  poor,  about  a  guinea  a  year,  upon  an  average ;  and 
what  further  aid  is  neceflarj  is  cheerfully  afToried  in  the 
way  of  private  donation.  So  attentive  has  this  neighbour- 
hood been  to  matters  of  this  kind,  that  for  thefe  ao  years, 
there  have  not  been  3  travelling  beggars  belonging  to  Urr ; 
nor  did  even  thefe  go  beyond  the  limits  of  the  parifh.  At 
prefent,  there  is  no  poor  perfon  of  the  travelling  defcriptioa 
amoogft  us. 

RtUgioM.'^Ol  the  2354  perfons,  who  compofe  the  popula* 
tion  already  liated,  there  are  about  30  families  of  Antiburgher 
Seceders,  and  a8  families  of  Roman  Catholics.  The  Seceders 
have  had  a  meeting- houfe  within  the  pariih  for  thefe  45  years 
paft,  or  more  $  during  which  time,  the  Rev.  Mr.  John  Milli- 
gan,  a  gentleman  equally  venerable  as  a  minifter,  and  refped. 
able  iis  a  citizen,  has  performed  the  paftoral  duty.  The 
Catholics  attend  divine  fervice  in  a  neighbouring  pariih,  where 
tb^y  have  a  jj^ace  of  worihip*.    Their  clergy  have*  been 

always 

*  At  MoiMSKSy  in  the  pariili  ot  ^mtiii^  in  the  reign  of  Cuaklks  I« 
Gaomox  Maxwsli.  of  MuNSHts,  a  gentleman  of  great  worth  and  probitj, 
was  the  judge  ordinary  of  this  county.  Though  himfelf  a  Roman  Catholic, 
with  a  liberality  Httk  fnitcd  to  the  timef,  and  hardly  cooiiilcnt  with  his  own 

fafety. 


yS  Statiftical  Account 

^wajs  perfons  of  pietj,  erudition,  and  irreproachable  lives* 
Juftice  requires  it  farther  to  be  faid,  that  the  lives  and  de- 
portment of  the  hearers  do  no  difcredit  to  the  example 
and  infiruAions  of  the  teachers.  The  whole  amount  of  tbe 
DiiTenters  in  Urr  is  270  perfons.  The  difference  of  rcligt- 
0U8  opinion  has  never  occafioned  much  mifunderftanding  or 
hitternefs.  The  eftabliihed  minifter  has  been  in  ufe  to  vifit 
^more  efpeciallj  in  affliSed  families),  without  diftindion; 
and,  on  fuch  occafions,  to  perform  the  ufual  afts  of  devotion 
ivithont  referre,  or  fear  of  giving  umbrage. 

CharaQer. — ^With  equal  truth  and  fatisfadion  it  is  alTerted, 
in  the  face  of  the  public,  that  the  behaviour  of  the  inhabitants 
of  the  parifli  of  Urr  hath  been,  for  feveral  generations  paft, 
{and  ftill  is)  fober,  inoffenfive  and  dutiful.  By  faying  this, 
it  is  not  meant  to  detraft  from  that  independence  of  fpirir,  . 
that  freedom  of  opinion,  and  that  acuteneis  of  judgment, 
which  diftinguifli  the  inhabitants  of  every  free  country,  and 
which  afford  the  beft  fupport  to  every  refpedlable  government 
upon  eiairth.  In  a  quarter  where  (till  of  late)  religious  con* 
troverfies  ufed  to  be  agitated  with  great  freedom  and  warmth, 

ic 

iafety,  he  fated  tbe  lives  of  leveral  of  thofi:  perfccuted  people,  whom  the  fsry 
of  the  £pifcopal  clergy,  and  the  time-lcrTcrs  of  the  court  would  have  hrougbc 
to  the  gallowt.  To  do  the  inCerior  people  of  this  country  juAice,  the  family  of 
Munihei,  has  not,  fince  the  Revolution,  been  much  difturbcd  in  the  ezerdfe  of 
their  religion.  Once  or  twice,  it  is  true,  the  houfe  of  Niunibes  has  been  rnow- 
maged,  for  bo«ks  coDtaauDg  the  doiftrines  of  Antichkist,  and  the  veibpcna 
and  implements  of  idolatry.  On  thtrfe  occafions,  however,  we  cannot  Icsn, 
that  the  damage  of  the  family  was  greater  than  the  lo's  of  a  Greek  Tefiamcot, 
and  of  a  book  called  "  Tbefaifb/ut  Farrier  ;*'  both  of  which  were  bjimt  on  ths 
CorbcUy  Hill,  near  Dumfries,  the  ufual  Topbet  for  fuch  captures.  The  ovt- 
Isndifli  charader,  and  a  pidure  or  two,  in  the  Teflament,  left  no  doubt  of  it* 
popery ;  as  for  the  other  book,  its  ingenious  title  was  mif-read  **  Tbeffuibfal 
**  friar,"    There  have  been  greater  miftakcs,  both  in  religion  and  politico 


ofTJrr.  79 

it  is  not  to  be  fuppofed,  that  the  minds  of  men  (hould  be  de- 
prived of  that  acutenefsy  v^hich  refidts  from  fach  diiquifitions. 
IgDoraocc  and  ftupiditj,  however,  no^Aiore  a{^ar  to  be  the 
parents  of  lojalty  than  they  are  of  devotion.  Though  it  has 
been  annoonced  in  fome  newfpapers,  vrith  an  air  of  triumph, 
that  ficditioos  writings  had  never  appeared  in  certain  trads  of 
conntry,  and  it  has  bj  fome  perfons  been  talked  of  as  a  lucky 
circnmftance»  that  the  people  in  feveral  parts  of  the  kingdom 
cnuld  nai  read  works  of  a  feditious  tendency,  fomething  bet-» 
ter  (it  is  hoped),  may  be  faid  for  the  inhabitants  of  this 
neighbonxhood.  There  is  not  one  (it  is  believed)  of  the  late 
feditious  publications,  that  has  not  found  its  way  into  Urr* 
Thcfe,  with  fome  of  the  anfwers  (particularly  a  pamphlet 
called  tht  Patriot)^  were  read,  weighed,  and  decided  upon. 
Therefnltis,  that,  according  to  every  probability,  there  is  not 
a  man  in  the  parilh,  who  would  not  riik  his  life  for  the  fup« 
port  of  the  Kbg's  authority,  and  the  Britifli  conftitution,  as 
eSablilhed  at  the  Revolution  in  i688. 

fVamis  of  tbi  Pa9^^^-^The  natural  advantages  belonging 
to  Unr  pariA,  and  the  fobriety  and  indoftry  of  its  inhabitants, 
are  its  £ble  refeurces.  Acquired  aids  it  has  but  few.  The 
military  road  which  pafTes  through  Urr,  (and  that  in  a  line  fo 
prepofterous,  that  mere  FaUy  could  hardly  have  ftumbled  up- 
on it),  is  the  only  benefit  for  which  it  ftands  indebted  to  pub- 
lic benevolence. 

It  has  been  obferved  with  juftice,  that  where  the  mere 
labourer  is  not  encouraged,  and  enlightened  by  the  man  of 
letters,  human  induftry,  and  ingenuity  too,  will  be  ftationary. 
We  may  go  farther,  and  affirm  they  will  be  retrograde.  Ig- 
norance as  natutally  propagates  ignorance,  and  far  more 
ealily,  than  knowledge  does  knowledge.  In  an  extent  of 
country,  fo  large  as  that  comprehended  in  the  p^rifl^  of  Urr, 

more 


to  Staij/fical  Account 

more  fchools  than  one  would  be  neceflarj.  The  falaty  of  tfe€ 
prefent  fchoolmafler  is  200  merks  Scotch ;  and,  from  this 
pittanoe,  3L  Sterling  is  abftrafted,  for  the  hire  of  a  perfon 
to  keep  a  fchool  in  the  mooriih  part  of  the  parift.  For  fach 
an  encouragement,  it  is  not  to  be  expeded  that  teachers  of  Trry 
refpedable  qualifications  can  be  found.  It  is  the  cry  of  namj 
affluent  people,  however,  **  The  mod  indifierent  fehooUnafter 
'*  can  teach  a  young  perfon  to  read^  and  tofuhfcribt  his  name. 
**  This  is  education  fuffieient,  Wh j  flionld  we  make  our 
••  tenants  and  cotters  better  men  than  their  fathtn  /*•  To 
xnention  no  other  abfurdity  contained  in  this  argument,  fcve^ 
ral  gentlemen,  holding  this  language,  feem  little  to  be  aware, 
how  bx  thej  ezpofe  thtir  own  fnmilus  to  the  recolledion  of 
the  world.  As  to  ignorance  of  hiflory^  it  may  well  be  ex- 
cttfed,  when  people  do  not  renrember  their  own  grandfathers. 
As  to  thofe  alfo  who  think  that  ability  defcends  by  entail^  or 
is  fecured  by  feudal  title^  it  could  be  wifiied  cfaeir  opinions 
were  more  frequently  juftified  by  their  condudL  The  jea-* 
loufy,  which  the  more  powerful  and  affluent  part  of  fociety 
hare  fliewn,  for  feme  time  paft,  with  refpeft  to  the  extanfion 
of  knowledge,  might  profitably  be  contralled  with  the  oon* 
duft  of  Scotland,  for  at  leaft  an  age  after  the  Reformation. 
If  inattention  to  the  wants  of  the  public,  in  refpeft  of  reli* 
gious,  moral,  and  even  ufeful  inftruAion,  mucb  longer  pre- 
vails ;  if  contempt  and  harfimefs  towards  thofe  moft  opprellcd, 
and  moft  deCerving  citizens,  called  parifh  fchooUmaften,  re» 
mains  unabated,  people,  who  have  moft  to  lofe,  have  greateft 
reafon  to  dread  the  confequences.  Nii  vtri^  nil  fan&ij  mUla 
deorum  metnsy  nulla  religio^  may  ibon  be  the  charafter  of  may 
mau,  or  any  number  of  men;  but,  of  this  defbriptioo,  wc 
read  but  ef  few,  in  the  courfe  of  3009  years,  who  bave  given 
caufe  for  the  doubt,  ne/cio  mirabilior  fnk  adverJU  quarn  fe^ 
cttntHf  rebus.    • 

It 


it  IS  true,  a  great  part'  of  relrgiotif  and  moral  ififtrudion,* 
is  fappofed'  Xtr  drrrcdtre  upon  the  clergy.     Bat  how  can  tbir 
happen;  wheii  a  foandstion  is  not  laid  for  their  labours  ?   Fre« 
qaentlj  it  isobferved,  that  the  clergj  of  the  prefent  day  are 
nowife'  fo  popular  as  tbeir  predece£R>rd.     And  this  hath  been 
made  an  argument,  for  the  contempt  anddeprfeffion,  under  v^tech' 
they  bave  kfctotlf ed  of  late  years;     The  faft,  however,  fiioiild* 
be  duly  weighed.    Of  latfe  years,  the  courts  of  law,  and  the* 
landed  intereft^  have  entirely  fuperfeded  the  clergy,  in  thema«« 
ifagementof  parifli  fchook.  Heritors  will  not  fo  much  as  allow 
tf  mtnifler;  to  vote  in  the  choice  of  a  fchoolmafter.     They 
willcboofe  him  from  year  to  year  ;  they  will  pull  into  frag<* 
ments  a  (alary  of  ten  pounds  ;  and  the  parifli  minifler  is  nei« 
ther  able  to  difpute  fuch  proceedings  iii  a  law  court,  nor  is  it 
believed,  that  he  would  be  well  heard,  if  difpofed  to  aft:  re^ 
dreli.     The  confequence  is,  that  a  parifh  fchool  is  now  a  mo- 
mentary, or  at  leaft  a  temporary  employment,  for  fome  ne- 
ceffitous  perfon  of  ability ;  or  a  perpetual  employment  for 
fome  languid  infignificant  mortal,  hardly  deferving  the  Iheltef 
of  a  charity  work-houfe.     Let  us  contraft  with   this  ftate- 
ment,  the  charafter  of  fchoolraafters  in  Scotland,  for  a  hundred 
years  after  the  Reformation  ;  let  us  remember,  too,  the  cha^ 
raAer  which  the  inhabitants  of  Scotland  maiqtained,  and  the 
figure  they  made  among  foreign  nations,  during  that,  and 
even  fubfeqoeot  periods ;  let  us  advert  to  the  laws  of  the  ftate 
and  of  the  church,  refpeAing  the  provifion  n|ade  for  fchool- 
mailers,  and  the  qualifications  expefied  in  them ;  let  us  re« 
colleft  too  the  periods  when  thefe  laws  were  framed,  and  the 
men  who  framed  them.     Things  are  now  changed.     If  a 
clergyman  catechifes  his  parifli  on  religion,  he  finds  they  can- 
not read  the  Bible :  If  he  fpeaks  of  morality,  they  anfwer 
him  with  a  ftare.    Learning  and  literature  are  out  of  the  que- 
flion.    At  this  xate^  in  order  to  be  popular,  the  parTon  finds 

VoL^XL  .       L  it 


S2  Staiifiical  Account 

it  indifpeaffiile  to  propagate  a  dangetous  enthufiafmt  or  Co  de* 
dare  himielf  retainer  to  a  contemptible  fnperftitioii. 

In  his  rooft  rational  efforts  alib^  to  do  goodt  the  pazifii  mi- 
aiftcr  finds  himfelf  under  one  greats  one  infnpefmUe  diffiqultj.. 
Whilft  alnoft  deprived  of  the  aid,  and  of  the  influence  of  the 
fchoolmafter,  the  clergyman  finds  the  fame  pains,  the  fSune 
care,  the  fame  attendance  ezpe&ed,  from  ererj  funily,  from^ 
everjr  individual  in  the  pariih,  that  were  ufual  a  centnrj-  ago. 
Keverthelels,  the  population  of  the  parifli  is  perhaps,  teipkd, 
the  ftipend  is  the  fame,  and  the  keepbg  an  affiftant  is  im* 
poffible.    All  this  while,  the  Diflisnters,  of  everj  denoauniu 
tion,  are  not  idle.   They  are  i^ot  only  eftablilhing,  bnt  multi* 
plying  fchools  of  their  own,  and  clergymen  of  their  own :  And, 
if  public  difcontent  and  patty  fpirit  are  permitted,  naj  pro- 
voked, to  eSeftuate  thefe  labours,,  which  might  be  expeded 
from  the  candour,  the  |uftice,  the  benevolence  of  a  nation, 
how  can  it  be  otherwife,  than  that  mattess  fhould  haften  to  a 
revolution  ?    It  has  often  been  obferved,  that  a  religious  efta^ 
Uiihment  can  only  be  difpenfed  with  in  a  republic,,  if  theru 
Thofe  in  power,  however,  are  no  doubt  beft  judges,  how  far 
the  expence  of  the  church  is  an  objed,  when  the  prefent  form 
of  government  is  kept  in  view  ;  in  which  expence,  undoubted- 
ly, the  eftablifliment  of  proper  Ichools  ought  to  be  included  *. 

NUW- 


*  Thefe  oblervationt  are  offered  to  the  ittentioo  of  alT  concerned,  by  a  day- 
man, who  never  was  a  Schoolmastik  bmfelft  nor  wai  there  ever  one  chofea: 
in  his  parUh  fince  he  was  incombfot. 


vf  iPreJhn-KirL  83 


NUMBEH    V; 


PARISH   OF  PRESTON-KIRIL 


ip^mOy  of  Haddington — Prtjhytery  of  Lunbar^^^ynod  of 
Lotbian  and  TTweeddab. 


Mj  tU  Bm.  Mr^  Samel  M^Qpuy,  Mmi/ip'. 


Jtame^  Skuaiton  and  Exteni. 

THE  pariih  o{  Presjon-kirk  (formcarly  jcalled  Tr^mh 
haugb'jf  lies  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  fertile  coon^ 
4>f  Eafi  Lotbian,  extendmg  liboilt  4  miles  from  W.  to  E^ 
on  the  line  of  the  great  roaid  to  England,  by  Berwick ;  and,  at 
its  greateft  (breadth,  about  7  miles  from  N.  to  S.  The  parifli 
ichorch,  which  is  pleafimtly  fituatod  on  a  final!  eminence,  dofe 
bj  the  liver  Tyne,  is  equally  4iftant  from  Haddington  and 
Donbar. 

Swrfac9^  Soilf  Rhfer  and  F|^.*— The  forface  of  the  groond 
is  agreeably  varied ;  and,  were  it  moM  generally  clothed  with 
planting,  would  afford  as  beautiful  views  as  any  part  of 
^€  county.  But  the  richn^  of  the  ibilt  and  the  fuperior 
profiu  derived  from  tillage,  prevent  this  from  bebg  die 
cafe.  The  river  Tyiir,  which  takes  its  rife  about  zo  milea 
above  Haddington,  winds  through  the  middle  of  the  pariib, 

La  aii4 


^4-  Statifiical  Acccwnt 

and  empties  itfelf  into  the  fea,  about  3  miles  E.  of  the  church, 
on  a  flat  fandj  beach.  On  each  fide  of  the  river,  the  fields, 
in  the  weftem  diftri&of  Ae  part(b,  Aope  graduallj  towards  its 
channel;  but  at  the  village  of  Linton,  a  little  way  above  the 
church,  the  ft  ream,  after  falling  over  fome  broken  rocks,  of 
cqqfiderable  height,  xtsni  chief^  through  a  flat  fertile  haugh, 
till  it  reaches  the  fea.  In  this  lower  part  of  the  river,  confi- 
derable  quantities  of  iaimon  .grejcaught,  asd  .excellent  trouts 
through  the  whole  cuti ;  but  it  is  thought  the  numbers  of  the 
former,  would  be  much  increafed,  were  the  rocks  that  io« 
terrupt  the  channel  at  Linton  Bridge,  blown,  fo  as  to  afford  a 
paiTage  iot  thcjpci  to  get  up  xnocie  ixttlj^  and  to  fpawn. 

HilL'^Tht  only  confiderable  hill  in  the  parilh  is  Trafrane 
LaWi  formerly  called  Dun^fender  (two  Gaelic  words  fignifying 
Steep  HiU)t  an  appellation  to  which,  from  its  appearance, 
efpecially  on  the.  foudi  fide,  it  is  well  entitled.  Its  height  is 
about  700  feet  above  the  level  of  the  fea;  and  it  forms  one 
of  the  moft  confpicuous  objeAs  to  mariners,  after  entering  the 
mouth  of  the  Frith  of  Forth.  From  the  top  of  it  may  be 
feen  part  of  13  counties.  /. 

P^ulatiQH.^^Tht  population,  as  returned  to  Dr.  Webfier 
in  i755f  was  -  -  .  -  .  -  131^ 
The  prefent  number,  (in  1793)9  of  males 

grown  up,  is  -  397 

«  of  females  grown  up*,         354 

—      of  children  under  10,        425 

In  all,         -         1 1 76         1 176 

Decreafe,        m        •  14a 

Produce* 

9, 1*he|re  is  fxfx^  uiif onvnpn  Inlban^^  of  loogoKky  at  pfcfcat  in  the  porifii ; 
a  womiOi  rciidi^g  at  Beanfioii  Mill,  aged  za?. 


.tf  Frtjlon-Ktrk.  85 

froduce. — ^The  parilh  contaioB  nearly  5000  acres.  Of  theb, 

in  the  year  1792,  there  were. 

Acres. 

In  wheat,          -        '•           .          «  700 

^—barley,          -          -           .          .  3jo 

—  oats,         -          •         -         -         -  750 

—  peafe  and  beans,         ...  ^00 

—  potatoes  and  turnips,           •        -  180 

—  clover,        -----  a8o 

—  pafture  grafs,     '  -      -        •        •  1S60 
— *fialloW|         -        -        .        -        •  4JO 

In  all,  -  4990 

The  Tahied  rent,  in  chalders,  is        -        *        •       ai£ 
The  zeal  rent  is  computed  at  «  •         L.  4700 

State  of  Agriculture, — ^Agriculture  is  in  general  profecuted 
i|i  this  parifii,  with  as  much  diligence  and  fuccefs,  as  in  any 
part  of  the  ifland*. — Drilled  crops  of  tutnips  and  beans  are 
cultivated  to  a  vtrj  confiderable  extent.  The  turnips  are  eat 
off  the  ground,  in  the  courfe  of  winter  and  fpring,  by  fheep 
bought  fVi  for  the  purppfe.  The  iheep  are  confined  within  a 
certain  part  of  the  field,  by  a  moveable  fence,  which  is  ihifted 
fuccdSvelj,  until  the  whole  crop  is  confumed.  This  praftice  has 
been  found  fo  profitable  (particularly  laft  year),  as- to  clear  a( 
the  rate  of  7I.  on  the  fcore  of  iheep.  The  ground,  thus  ma« 
naged,  being  clean,  and  in  excellent  condition,  is  very  com- 
monly fown  with  wheat  in  fpring.  The  general  tafte  for  agri- 
culture 

*  It  IS  m  ia&^  wordiy  o£  rccordiiif ,  to  the  booGur  of  thU  parifli,  that  it  fet  the 
ii^  emnple  of  fallowing  ground,  in  this  part  of  the  ifland,  now  fo  generally  a- 
doi»ted«  In  the  beginning  of  this  century,  John  Walker,  tenant  in  fieanfioo,  by 
tbe  adYicc  of  fome  gentlemen  from  England,  fallowed  about  6  acres  of  land ; 
and  finding  the  experiment  anfwer  hit  ezpedation,  he  was  led  to  extend  it,  the 
year  following,  to  upwards  of  ao  acres.  His.neighbonrs,  obferring  the  fucccls  of 
the  pradice,  gradually  followed  him  in  it,  until  at  length  it  became  uniYcrOmy 
ncvalend 


^6  Statlfiical  Account 

cultoie  which  prevails  b  this  ptrifli,  and  the  abundant  emploj« 
ment  which  it  affords  to  perfons  of  dl  ages,  are  circanftances 
unfavourable  to  the  eftabiiihinent,  or  exteniive  progre{s»  of  anj 
branch  of  manufa&ure. 

AntiquUiu — A.  place  of  rdigloos  worflup,  it  would  appear, 

bas  fubfifted  on  the  fame  fpot  where  the  church  now  ftaodiy 

as  far  back  as  a  thoufaod  years.   It  is  mentioned,  in  the  Saxon 

Afinalsy    under  the  name   of  Ecclefia  SanBi  Baldridi,  the 

tutelar  Clint  of  the  place:  And  that  record  bears,  that  the 

SazonSy  having  made  an  irruption  into  £aft  Lothian,  in  the 

eight  century,  burnt  Exckfiam  SanBi  BaUridi^  it  adjaceniem 

vi€tim  di  Tjningbam^  a  fmall  village,  about  a  mile  eaftwnrd 

of  this  place.     It  is  a  faft  fomewhat  curious,  that  upon 

taking  down  the  old  church,  aj  years  ago,  the  oak  bcaois 

bore  on  them,  in  feveral  places,  evident  marks  of  fire ;  fo  that 

it  is  probable,  they  had  belonged  to  the  ancient  &bric,  and  con* 

fequtntly  muft  have  ftood  diere  nearly  looo  years.     Some 

places,  adjoining  to  the  church,  ftijl  bear  the  the  name  of  tbe 

ancient  tutelar  faint ;  as  RaUridU  Witt^  apd  Balinffi  WbUU 

a  pool  or  eddy  in  the  river.     The  chancel,  at  the  eafi  ^nd  of 

the  old  church,  flill  remabs,  and  is  the  burial  place  of  the 

family  of  Smeaton.     Under  the  head  of  the  antiquities  of  the 

parifb,  may  alfo  be  mentioned  Hailes  Cafile^  which  bears  the 

marks  of  having  been  once  a  large  building,  and  a  place  qf 

flrength.     It  itands  dofe  upon  the  banks  of  the  Tyne,  d>out 

two  miles  above  Lbton,  and  was  in  former  times  the  feat  of 

the  Earl  of  Bothwell,  fo  well  known  in  hiftory,  for  his  dar* 

kig  and  flagitious  enterprife  in  carrying  off  the  iinfortunate 

Mart.     It  now  belongs  to  Mifs  Dalrymple,  patronefs  of  the 

parifli,  eldeft  daughter  of  the  lately  dcceafed  Sir  David  Dai^ 

KTMFLE  of  Hailes— -a  venerable  name^— which  will  convey  xb 

this,  and  to  fuccecdbg  ages,  the  rare  memorial  of  talents  which 

would 


of  Prefton^Kirk.  87 

wodd  haye  beamed  through  Indolence  kfelf ;  of  indadrjr, 
which  might  have  overtaken  even  the  career  of  genius  ;  both 
cooiecrated,  by  the  energy  of  the  pureft  principles,  to  the  glory 
of  his  Maker,  and  the  good  of  his  fellow  creatures. 

Citnl  5la/r.— There  are  6  confiderable  heritors  in  this  pa- 
riih  V  a  of  whom  only,  (Mn  Bucban  Hepburn  of  Smeaton), 
refidcs*.  This  non-refidence  of  the  proprietors,  is  an  nn- 
favourable  circuaiftance  to  the  poor's  funds,  in  refpeft  to  the 
GoUeAions  at  the  church  v  ^ol.  annually  of  afleflment  being 
ncceflaiy  to  fnpply  the  defipency. 

E€€kfiafi$eal State.^^Tht  prefent  church  was  built  in  the  year 
1770.  The  manfe  is  old,  and  in  bad  repair.  The  (lipend,  ac- 
cording to  an  augmentation  lately  granted,  confifts  of  8  chalders 
3bollsof  viftual,  and  46I.  Z5S.  jd.  of  money,  with  a  glebe 
of  7  acres. 

Mawmri  of  tbe  Peopk. — The  uniform,  unremitting,  but 
healthy  labours  of  agriculture,  which  occupy  the  great  ma- 
jority of  the  inhabitants  of  this  pariih,  are  probably  favour- 
able both  to  their  morals  and  happinefs.  They  arc»  in  general, 
indnfirioos  and  contented  with  their  lot.  PofiefEng,  as  they 
do,  tbe  Ueffings  of  liberty,  prote£tion,  and  equal  laws,  with 
the  mcaas  of  providing,  for  themfelves  and  families,  the  necef. 
farics,  and,  to  a  certain  degree,  even  the  comforts  of  life,  be 
would  not  be  their  friend,  who  would  feek  to  agitate  their 
nunds  with  fpeculative  fources  of  difcontent. 

The 


*  Smkatoii  HotrtB,  the  refideacc  of  this  gentleman,  hAs  been  lately  rebuilt, 
«o  la  clcgmoc  wad  cttenfive  plan  ;  and,  by  let  commanding  iltuation,  forms  a 
pen  onuuaeoc  of  thi«  part  of  the  country. 


8^  Statifticed  Jeceunt 

Tiht  ^vCK^tts  {or  foStical  reform^  confider  tbenfdTcs,  ikt 
doubty  to  be  engaged  in  a  good  canfe.  But  without*  calling 
their  motives  in  qneftion,  it  may  be  allowed  to  thoTe,  who 
have  a  deep  intereft  in  the  quiet  of  their  country  and  neigb- 
bourhoodi  to  deprecate  the  effi&t  which  their  zeal  in  it  may 
produce.  Such  an  intereft  every  clergyman  has,  both  as  a 
citizen,  and  as  a  paftor.  Amidft  the  keennefs  of  political  af- 
fociations,  among  men  little  qualified,  eidier  to  difcem  with 
precifion,  or  to  profecute  by  proper  meafures,  the  objeft  at 
which  they  aim,  there  is  danger  that  the  yoice  of  religion  may 
be  difregardedf  that  the  refpeft  to  extfttng  laws  may  decay, 
that  the  amity  of  neighbours  may  be  interrupted,  and  that 
the  quiet  docile  charader  of  the  people  may  be  ttf  exchanged, 
for  a  fpirit  of  difcontent,  jealoufy,  and  pertinacious  wrang- 
ling; 


NUMBER 


V  ^cckfgrelg^  or  St.  Cyrus.  89 


NUMBER    VI. 


PARISH  OF  ECCLESGREIG,  alias  ST.  CYRUS- 

{Cmnttj  of  KincareKne-^PreJbytery  of  ForiUun^^ynoi  rf 
Angus  and  Meams.) 


By  the  Rev.  Mr.  William  Walker. 


Origin  of  the  Names. 

ECCLESGREIG  is  evidentlj  a  name  of  Latin  origmy 
and  an  abbreviation  of  Ecdejia  Gregorii^  the  chnrch 
of  Gregorj.  It  perhaps  obtained  this  name  from  St.  Gregory 
the  Great,  bilbop  of  Rome,  or  from  fome  later  pope  of  that 
name,  to  whom  it  might  have  been  dedicated ;  or  more  pro- 
bably from  Sc.  Gregory,  one  of  the  firft  miflionaries  from 
Rome  to  this  country.  There  is  little  probability  that  the 
other  name,  St.  Ctru8«  was  derived  from  Cyrus^  the  Mono- 
thclite,  biihop,  firft  of  Phafis,  and  afterwards  of  Alexandria, 
unlefs  the  new  converts  here  favoured  his  doftrinc.  It  is 
more  probable  that  there  was  a  St.  Cyrus  refident  here,  either 
a  miflionary,  or  a  native ;  bec^ufe  there  is  a  fpring  of  falubri- 
ous  water  in  the  pariih,  called  St.  Cyruses  Well,  and  a  fmall 
portion  of  adjacent  ground,  called  St.  Cyruses  Ward.  From 
him  it  derive?  its  modem  and  familiar  name ;  but  in  formal 
Vol.  XI.  M  writing 


,^  Statifiical  Account 

vrritings,  in  ci^  and  cccleiiaftical  records,  Ecckfgreig  is  tbc 
name  generally  ufed. 

Situation  and  Extent. ^-^The,  pariih  of  Ecclefgreig  or  St.Gjms 
isiituated  in  the  fouthern  extremity  of  the  county  of  Kincardine. 
It  lies  in  5^^  45'  N.  lat.,  and  2^  10'  W.  long*  from  London. 
The  high  road,  from  Montrofe  to  Aberdeen*  runs  through 
the  pariih,  from  the  3d  to  a  little  beyond  the  8th  mile 
ftone  from  Monti  ofe.  It  is  5  miles  long  from  £•  to  W.,  and  5 
miles  broad  from  N.  to  S. ;  and,  being  nearly  of  a  redangular 
form,  its  whole  furface  may  be  reckoned  to  contain  15  fquare 
miles. 

SurfaccyXSc — The  furface  of  this  parifii  cannot  be  faid  to  be 
uneven  upon  the  whole,  althou^^h  it  admits  of  fome  gentle 
declivities,  and  gradual  riiings,  is  interfe^ted  by  a  few  dens 
and  rivulets,  and  rifes  into  feveral  eminences  and  little  hills. 
It  is  curious  to  remark  with  yirhat  interrupted  elevation  the 
land  rifes,  from  the  bay  of  St.  Cyrus  to  the  Grampian  Hills. 
It  riles  high,  bold,  and  rocky,  with  a  fudden  elevation  above 
the  coafl.  It  then  fubiides  a  little,  or  continues  nearly  on  the 
level  for  a  quarter  of  a  mile  towards  the  north.  It  afterwards 
rifes  gradually,  into  feveral  little  hiXls  or  eminences,  a  mile  far- 
ther north.  It  lowers  again  on  the  northern  confines  of  the 
pariih  ;  and  rifes  Aill  higher  in  the  more  extended  chain  of 
the  hills  of  Garvock.  It  iinks  almoft  as  low  as  the  level  of 
the  fea  in  the  h(xw^  or  hollow  lands  of  the  Meams ;  and  rifes 
in  fuUime  heighth,  dnd  extended  grandeur,  in  the  Grampian 
"Mountains.  ,  More  than  three  fourths  of  the  whole  furface 
are  arable.  The  hills  of  Bridgeton  and  Woodfton  are  plant- 
ed. The  eminences  of  Bidderee  and  Craigie  are  already  ar« 
able  ;  and  tne  hal  of  Morphy  is  modly  capable  of  being  made 
fo.     The  muirs  of  Cantcrland,  Murihcad  and  Craig*'e,  on  the 

N.W. 


of  Ecdefgreig^  or  St.  Cyrus.  91 

N.  W.  boundaries  of  the  parllh,  being  lefs  expofed  to  the  fea 
tlian  other  uncultivated  places,  might  be  planted,  with  profit 
to  the  proprietor  and  advantage  to  the  public.  For  wood  is 
a  fcarce  article  on  this  coaft,  and  does  not  thrive  when  much 
ezpofed  to  the  fea  breezes.  The  general  inclination  of  the 
ground  is  towards  the  S.  and  S.  E.  Some  farms  indeed  arc 
expofed  to  the  S.  W.  fun,  and  decline  to  the  river  North  Elk. 
The  whole  lies  well  under  the  benign  influence  of  the  fun  ; 
yet  the  crops  come  not  foon  to  maturity.  The  time  of  reap- 
ing feldom  begins  before  the  middle  of  September ;  and  harveft- 
wtrk  is  often  not  finilhed  by  the  end  of  Odober.  This  may 
be  accounted  for,  from  the  wetnefs  and  fliffnefs  of  the  foil, 
and  the  coldneis  of  the  climate. 

Soil. — ^The  foil  of  the  pariflx,  in  general,  is  deep  day.  In 
fome  places,  the  clay  is  mixed  with  a  little  fand ;  and  in 
others,  through  long  cultivation,  and  frequent  application  of 
manures,  a  black  loamy  earth,  from  15  to  1 3  inches  deep,  is 
fnperiuduced  above  the  ili^  clay.  The  foil  foon  becomes  wee 
after  rain,  and  unfit  for  tillage  ;  but  it  alfo  foon  becomes  dry 
again,  and  fit  for  atiy  improvement.  Its  wetnefs  is  not  fo 
much  owing  to  natural  fprings  of  water,  as  to  the  rain  water  ^ 
which  being  prevented  from  finking  to  any  confiderable  depth, 
by  the  refiftance  of  ftrong  fliff  clay,  floats  at  or  near  the  fur- 
face,  till  it  is  exhaled  by  the  fun,  or  dried  up  by  the  wind« 
This  accounts  at  once  for  the  oppoiite  imprefSons  fo  fooVi  made 
upon  it  by  rain,  or  fair  weather.  The  general  depth  of  the 
rain  water,  which  annually  falls  on  this  part  of  the  coaft,  has 
been  computed  to  be  from  24  to  28  inches.  This  computa- 
tioQ  is  thought  to  be  nearly  accurate ;  but  the  rain  that  fell 
laft  year,  (1792)  far  exceeds  it.  Such  an  immenfc  quantity  of 
ram,  in  one  year,  is  not  in  the  remembrance  of  the  oldefl  mau 
it)  the  pariih. 

M  2  Climate. 


92  Statiftical  Account 

CljmaU. — ^Thc  climate  is  (harp  and  cold  for  Uic  great(;A  part 
of  the  year.  But  this  may  be  accounted  for,  from  its  fudden 
elevation  above  the  fea,  its  ezpofure  to  the  callcrn  blafi,  its 
general  want  of  planting,  and  its  vicinity  to  the  cold,  fnow- 
covered  hills  of  the  north.  It  is  however  a  healthy  climate, 
as  appears  from  the  common  longevity  and  healthinefs  of  the 
inhabitants,  and  from  their  general  exemption  from  agues, 
and  other  chronic  difeafe».  The  iharpeft  winds  are  from  the 
£.,  the  coldeft  from  the  N.  £.  and  N.,  and  the  warmeft 
breeds,  as  well  as  the  fined  weather,  from  the  W.  The 
fonth  wind  is,  for  the  moft  part,  either  accompanied  with  or 
followed  by  rain. 

RiviT  and  Bridge. — ^The  North  £ik,  which  feparates  tbie 
pafifh  from  Montrofe  and  Logic,  is  fometimes  confiderably 
fwelled  by  rain  and  melting  fnow.  The  common  paifage 
through  it  to  Montrofe,  about  ao  years  ago,  was  by  a  ferry 
boat  and  a  dangerous  ford,  till  a  bridge  was  boik  over  it,  by 
fubfcription,  for  65C0I.  Of  that  fum  his  Majefty  was  pleafed 
to  give  700I.,  to  encourage  an  undertaking  fo  ufeful. 

» 

Salmon  Fijbing* — In  the  fpace  of  about  2  miles  from  the 
mouth  of  this  river,  the  proprietors  of  the  ialmon  fiibing, 
in  this  pariih,  draw  a  free  rent  of  upwards  of  800I.  yearly*. 
Between  40  and  50  men,  including  overfeers,  bring  in  all  this 
profit  to  the  proprietors,  befides  what  they  make  for  their 
employers,  and  their  own  wages  and  maintenance.    This  too 

happex^s 

*  Kinnabar,  being  in  the  pariih  of  Montrofe,  is  not  Included  in  this  efti- 
mau,  though  the  rent,  drawn  from  the  falmon  fiihing  upon  it,  may  amount  to 
aool.  a  year.  The  author  of  this  artick'  is  not  io  well  acquainted  with  the 
Hate  and  profits  of  the  falmon  fifliing  farther  up  the  river;  but  iuppo£es  it  will 
not  exceed  50I  yearly,  as  far  as  the  patifh  extends,  in  conjun^on  with  that  of 
Logic. 


of[EccleJgreigy  or  St.  Cyrus.  93 

aappeos  between  the  terms  of  Candlemas  and  Michaelmas^ 
which  are  fixed  for  the  commencement  and  ending  of  cur 
falmon  fiibiog.  Seldom  are  the  fame  number  of  hands  fo 
profitably  employed  !  Perhaps  ic  might  be  more  for  the  be* 
acSt  of  tlie  fifliiug,  both  to  begin  and  leave  it  off  a  month 
fboner.  Cootinutng  to  fiih  to  the  end  of  September,  comes 
too  near  the  fpawning  feafon  i  and  if  fo«  muil  flrike  at  the 
fource  of  the  increafc  of  the  fifli ;  but  to  begin  Juoner  than 
Febraaiy,  when  the  weather  would  permit,  could  do  no  in- 
jury. Fourteen  boats  aie  employed  in  the  falmon  Aihing 
during  the  fummer  montlis,  but  feldom  half  that  num-' 
ber  are  needed  in  the  fpring  and  autumn*  The  fiifpsrs^ 
or  men  who  have  the  charge  of  the  boats,  and  give  di- 
redions  when  to  draw  the  net,  have  for  their  Mr^ges,  dur- 
ing the  fi(bing  feafon,  61.,  with  4  bolls  of  oatmeal,  and  7s.  for 
fuf^mouij^  or  drink  to  their  meals.  When  they  have  only 
5].,  with  the  fame  allowance  for  viduals,  tliey  receive  the 
douceur  of  one  halfpenny  for  each  falmon  they  take*  This 
gives  them  an  intereil  is  the  fuccefs  of  the  fifhing,  whicb 
makes  them  exert  themfelves,  and  mufl  be  an  advantage  to 
their  employers.  They  are  al(b  with  propriety  called  Jigbi^ 
mttt  i  becaufe,  from  habit  and  attention,  they  become  wonder* 
faUy  qoick^fighted  in  difcerning  the  motion  and  approach  of 
one  or  more  iiadmon,  under  the  water,  even  when  ruffled  by 
die  wind,  and  deepened  by  the  flowing  tide.  The  ropemerij 
their  affiftaats,  who  draw  the  net,  have  3s.  ^d.  per  week, 
with  two  pecks  of  meal  for  wages  and  maintenance.  Of  late, 
strj  few  of  the  falmon  caught  in  this  river  have  been  fold 
for  exportation.  Indeed  there  has  been  no  occafion  ;  for  the 
hlh  being  preferved  frefli  in  ice,  or  boiled  in  a  proper  prepara- 
tion of  vinegar  and  fait,  and  fent  by  fea  to  London,  meet  with 
2  ready  market. 

Befidcs 


^j|.  Statiftical  Account 

Befides  falmon  and  grilfes,  fea-trouts,  finnacks,  feds,  and 
herrings  are  fomecimes  taken  in  the  mouth  of  the  river  by  the 
falmon  fi(hers;  but  it  cannot  be  their  principal  objed  to  take 
them  \  and  indeed  the  quantities  taken  are  inconfiderable.  Ilie 
feals  are  the  greatefl  enemies  of  our  falmon  fifhing.  They 
watch  the  mouth  of  the  river,  purfue  the  falmon  as  they  go  up 
with  the  flo^'ing  tide,  and  devour  many  of  them.  If  ay, 
when  the  fiihermen  are  hauling  their  nets  afliore,  they  fome- 
times  get  in  below  the  net,  and  fometimcs  leap  over  it,  feize 
their  ^ey,  and  inftantly  make  off  with  it ;  not  without  injur* 
fng  the  net,  if  it  obftrufts  their  paifage.  In  fummer  1791, 
the  fiihermen,  in  order  to  deflroy  thefe  enemies  and  rivals,  fa- 
hricated  a  ilrong  net,  of  fufficienc  length  ro  reach  acrofs  the 
river  at  high  water,  and  deep  enough  to  dcfcend  from  the  top 
to  the  bottom  of  it,  where  it  was  firmly  faftened  with  huge 
flones,  and  other  heavy  materials.  When  they  faw  that  the 
feal  had  got  up  the  river,  above  the  net,  which  was  lowered 
for  the  purpofe,  they  went  into,  their  boats,  with  pikes  and 
firelocks,  raifed  the  net  above  the  fur&ce  of  the  water,  and 
took  their  ftations  below  it,  to  prevent  the  feal  from  leaping 
over  into  the  fea.  Several  ^ntlcmen,  farmers,  and  others 
watched  his  motions  from  the  fhore,  and  fired  at  him  as  often 
as  he  ventured  his  head  above  the  water.  As  it  [fell  into  its 
natural  channel,  by  the  ebbing  of  the  tide,  the  feal  was  oftner 
feen,  and  of  courfe  oftener  fired  at.  At  length,  he  was  fare 
to  receive  a  mortal  wound,  and  tinged  the  river  with  his  blood. 
The  incumbent  faw  three  of  them  killed  in  this  manner.  The 
effed  has  been  beneficial  to  the  fifliing  ;  for  more  than  twice 
the  quantity  of  falmon  were  taken  the  enfuing  feafon. 

Dens  and  RtTfulets^ — It  is  only  near  the  fea,  on  a  high  coaft, 
that  dens  cxift.  They  are  very  diftinft  f torn  glens ^  which  are 
valleys  between  hills.     Thefe  you  can  cafily  furvey,  in  all 

5  their 


of  Ecclejgreig^  or  St.  Cyrus.  95 

their  grandear,  from  the  fummit  of  the  hill,  od  either  fide* 
Bnt  70U  cannot  judge,  from  the  appearance  of  the  adjacent 
grounds,  which  are  highly  cultivated,  and  riCe  not  above  the 
level  of  the  furrounding  fields,  that  there  are  any  fuch  obje&s 
as  dens,  till  you  come  clofe  upon  them  ;  and  the  illufion 
heightens  greatly  the  pleafure  of  the  fpe£tator.  Dens  fink 
fuddenly  from  the  common  level  of  the  country,  and  feem  to 
owe  their  origin  to  fome  fmall  rivulet  or  dream ;  which,  iflu- 
ing  from  fprings  on  the  higher  la^ds,  and  meeting  with  foft 
materials  in  its  way,  has  waflied  all  thefe  away,  in  the  courfe 
of  ages,  till  it  found  the  hard  bottom,  and  met  with  fuch  re- 
Cilance,  as  occafioned  its  fudden,  and  'almoft  perpendicular 
fall  in  fome  places,  which  has  formed  two  fine  cafcades  in 
this  parifii— The  dens  here  are  5  in  number :  Den  Fenelt  the 
Den  of  Laurieftou^  the  Bum  or  Den  of  Wood/ton^  the  Den  o^ 
Morpbj^  and  Den  Side.  The  3  firft  run  in  a  direftion  from 
N.  to  S.,  and  the  a  laft  from  £.  to  W.  The  rivulets  which 
have  formed  the  former,  run  into  the  German  fea  ;  thofe 
which  have  formed  the  latter  run  into  the  North  Elk.  Den 
Fenel  is  aa  abbrevation  of  FeneUa\s  Den*. 

Ca/cades»^X)vtx  this  den,  at  the  diflance  of  7  miles  from 
Montrofe,  there  is  a  bridge  of  one  arch,  reding  on  a  rock  on 
each  fide,  along  which  goes  the  great  poft  road,  from  Mon- 
trofe to  Aberdeen.  A  little  below  the  bridge,  where  the  den 
grows  more  narrow,  the  cllfTs  are  very  deep,  and  rugged,  and 

boldly 

•  Thif  Femzlla  tras  the  danghter  of  the  Karl  of  Anovs,  a  powerful  no- 
bleman 10  thofe  days.  There  is  a  tradition  in  the  parifli,  and  it  agrees  to  the 
acnttDt  given  by  Johamnes  Major,  who  wrote  the  Anti^it'm  of  the  Mearnt^ 
that,  after  the  cruel  and  bafe  morder  of  Kenneti  III.,  to  which  FanclU  was 
inftigated  by  the  lois  of  her  fon,  (he  fled  from  her  caftle  of  Kincardine,  to  this 
drn;  hat,  being  pnrfutd  and  overtaken  in  it,  foffered  the  puoiihrnent  due  to  her 
treachery. 


g6  StallJIical  Account 

boldly  projeft,  fo  as  to  form  a  very  pifturefque  and  intercftlng 
view,  Tvhich  cannot  fail  to  delight  the  eye  of  the  traveller,  and 
fix  hixn  a  while  on  the  fpot.  About  500  yards^below  the  bridge, 
there  is  tt  fine  eafcade^  which  is  not  perceived  tilt  you  come 
clofe  upon  ?t.  This  body  of  water  falls  from  a  height  of  about 
63  feet  perpendicular ;  and  when  the  rivulet  is  fwelled  into  a 
river,  or  increafed  by  rain  beyond  its  ufual  channel,  the  be- 
holder is  ftruck  with  aftjniihment  at  the  grandeur  of  the 
of  the  fcene.  The  water,  before  it  precipitates,  holds  its 
courfe  45  feet  below  the  furface  of  the  adjoining  fields.  The 
bum  of  Woodfton,  which  forms  alfo  ^  fmall  den  near  its 
mouth,  falls  in  a  broken  hypothenufal  line,  of  about  75  feet, 
into  the  German  ocean.  Though  this  fall,  deferves  a  place 
among  the  natural  beauties  of  the  parilh,  and  is  one  of  the 
finefl  objefts  that  meets  the  eye  of  the  traveller  eaft  from 
Montrofe,  yet  that  of  Den  Fenel  far  furpafles  it  Jn  awfal 
grandeur,  and  ftriking  fublimity.  The  rivulets,  in  fome  of 
thefe  dens,  have  contributed  as  much  to  profit  as  to  plcafare, 
by  fupplying  water  to  fome  of  the  corn  mills  of  the  paritti. 
The  dens  themfelVes  afford,  in  general,  excellent  and  Well 
iheltered  paflure. 

Roads,  iic. — Yet,  after  all  the  pleafure  and  the  profits 
arifing  from  thefe  dens,  they  have  their  inconveniences  :  Ther 
render  the  formation  of  high  roads  a  work  of  great  difficuhy 
and  expence.  So  late  even  as  35  years  ago,  to  travel  from 
Montrofe  to  Bervie,  (which  is  only  13  miles),  in  a  carriage, 
was  a  dangerous  journey.  There  was  a  rough,  and  often  an 
unfafe  ford,  to  pals  through  the  North  £ik  ;  then  a  ftcep  wa- 
ter*woro  path  to  climb  up  to  the  cocomon  level  of  St.  Cyrus 
parifli ;  and  tbea  3  dens  to  pafs,  without  bridges,  by  narrow 
and  winding  paths  down  their  fteep  fides,  without  one  foot  of 
made  road  all  the  way.     Now,  indeed,  thefe  inconvenicaccs 

arc 


of  Ecckfgreig^  or  St.  Cyrus^  97 

w 

tre  in  a  gr^t  meafure  remediedy  bjr  the  bridges  thrown  over 
the  North  £ik  and  Den  Fenel,  the  Burn  of  Woodfton»  and  the 
Den  of  LatirieftoQ  ;  and  it  is  with  pleafure  that  the  author  of 
this  nanative  is  informedi  that  government  have  lately  granted 
looL  to  heighten  the  Bridge  of  Laurieiloni  which  is  now  the 
moft  dtfficnlt  pafs  in  this  parifli.  Yet^  after  all,  the  gentle- 
men of  the  county  have  it  in  their  contemplation,  to  alter 
the  line  of  road  greatly  for  the  better ;  and  to  introduce  turn- 
pikes, which  are  evidently  for  the  public  goody  as  well  as  for 
that  of  the  county,  when  the  expence  of  forming  and  keep- 
ing them  up  onfwers. 

Mimraif.     Upon  the  farm  of  Eaft  Mathers,  there  is  a  very 
valoable  lime-ftone  quarry*    This  farm  is  rented  from  the 
Vifcount  of  Arbuthnot,  by  George  Carnegie,  Efq.  of  Fit- 
tarrow,  who  took  it  for  the  purpofe  of  working  the  quarry, 
to  a  greater  extent  and  more  advantage,  than  could  have  been 
done  by  a  common  farmer.    Only  an  inconfiderable  quantity, 
znoftly  for  bmlding  and  plaftering,  for  which  purpofes  it  is 
preferred  to  any  oth^r  in  the  country,  was  fold  by  the  former 
tenant.     Indeed,  he  had  neither  money  nor  genius  to  carry 
on  the  Work  to  any  great  extent ;  nor  were  the  benefits  of 
ttfing  lime,  as  an  agricultural  manure,  fo  well  known,  as  to* 
occafibn  a  gteat  demand  for  iu    The  lime  rock  begins  on  the 
Ihore  about  flood  mark,  and  the  poft  is  now  from  i  a  to  14 
feet  deep.     When  firft  difcovered  and  worked,  it  lay  very 
near  the  furface ;  but  it  dips  in  fo  great  a  declivity,  in  a  S.  W. 
direftioo,  that  there  is  now  2$  feet  of   earth,  and  brittle 
red  rock,  above  it.     And  as  there  is  no  level  to  carry  off  the 
water,  it  is  drawn  off  by  a  pump,  worked  by  two  horfes,  at 
great  expence. 

The  coals,  for  burning  the  likne-fione,  are  brought  from  the' 

Frith  of  Forth  I  and  landed  in  a  fmall  creek  near  the  works. 

Vol.  XI.  N  which 


98  Statiftlcal  Account 

which  Mr.  Caroegie  has  enlarged  into  a  tolerable  harbour  for 
fmall  vefTels.  Thej  are  fubjeft  to  the  tax  on  waUr-born  coal^ 
fo  much  felt  and  complained  of  over  a  great  part  of  Scotland, 
but  from  which,  we  obferve  with  pleafure,  there  is  now  a 
near  profpe£l  of  being  relieved  \  feeing  his  Majefty's  minifiers 
have  recommended  it  to  the  conGderation  of  the  legiflature, 
and  are  themfelves  the  promoters  of  its  repeal.  Culm  is 
moftlj  ufed  bj  Mr,  Carnegie  for  the  burning*  of  ^s  lime ; 
but  the  flone  is  fo  hard,  and  the  demand  at  one  feafon  of  the 
year  fo  great,  that  it  will  not  anfwer  without  a  mixture  of 
great  coal.  The  increaCng  expence  of  removing  the  fuper- 
flrata  of  ear^h  and  rock,  and  of  pumping  out  the  water,  to- 
gether with  the  rife  on  the  rates  of  labour  and  wages,  have 
obliged  him  to  raifc  the  price  of  the  boll  of  fhells,  bj  degrees, 
from  i8d.  to  2 2d.  per  boll,  during  a  period  of  94  years*  The 
boll  contains  2  barrels,  and  the  barrel  44  pints,  Scotch  mea* 
fur^.  It  is  the  fame  with  the  wheat  meafure  of  this  country, 
a  boll  of  which  is  88  pints.  The  quantity  fold  (commwtiBu^ 
annis)  is  2c,ooq  bolls*  It  is  aim  oil  entirely  ufed  in  agricuU 
ture  ;  and  the  demand  is  greater  than  can  be  fupplied.  It  is 
carried  to  the  diftance  of  12  miles,  by  iteep,  rough  roads, 
over  tlic  Hill  of  Garvock,  into  the  How  of  the  Mearns,  (part 
of  the  valley  of  Strathmore)  \  and  is  found  to  anfwer  all  the 
expence  a  confiderable  way  up  the  fides  of  the  Qrampians* 
With  the  thin  iharp  foil  of  tbefe  barren  heath -covered  muirs 
it  agrees  .remarkably  well ;  and  it  is  pleating  to  fee  fome 
parts  of  them  annually  converted  into  crops  of  com  s^nd  of 
grafs,  by  the  operation  of  this  valuable  manure.  The  carriage 
to  the  greateft  diflance  roention^^^  is  is.  per  boll.  The  cart^ 
load  is  from  3i  to  4  bolls. 

The  (lone  ib  of  a  blue  colour,  veined  with  white;  and  it  is 
fnppofed,  that,  if  poliflied,  it  wou}d  be  a  beautiful  grey 
marble*     It  is  very  bard,  and  takes  a  great  quantity  of  gun- 

powder 


of  l^cctefgnigy  or  St.  Cyrus.  99 

ponder  to  force  it  from  its  fubterraneous  bed.  It  is  of  an  ex- 
cellent quality.  The  bed  proof  of  this  is,  that,  for  mafon 
work,  it  requires  a  third  part  more  fand  than  is  ufualljr  given. 
If  that  fpirituous  liquor  be  allowed  to  be  of  the  ftrongeft 
quality,  which  requires  the  greatell  quantity  of  water  to  re- 
duce it,  by  the  fame  analogy  it  may  be  admitted,  that  the 
lime  isofafuperior  quality,  which  requires  the  greateft  quantity 
of  fand  to  reduce  it  to  proper  mortar  for  building.  Every 
boll  of  this  lime  requires  a  cart  load  of  pure  fea  fand,  to  pre- 
pare it  for  the  ufe  of  the  mafon. — Upon  the  fame  farm,  to  the 
weftward,  there  is  another  (Iratum  of  lime-ftone,  of  equal 
quality,  and  much  the  fame  depth,  in  a  high  bank,  clofe  to 
the  fea.  It  being  impoffible  to  remove  the  ftrata  of  rock  and 
earth  above  it,  Mr.  Carnegie  began  lately  to  work  it  by 
mining,  having  brought  an  expert  miner  from  Eaft  Lothian 
for  the  purpofe,  who  teaches  afliflants  for  himfelf.  The  ex- 
periment has  been  attended  with  fuccefs,  and  a  great  quantity 
of  lime-ftone  has  been  forced  out,  by  the  irrefiftible  ilrength  of 
gunpowder.  The  mafly  pillars,  which  are  left  to  fupport 
the  incumbent  hill,  and  which  are  open  to  view,  will  througl^ 
time  produce  a  ftriking  effeft  on  the  eye.  This  quarry  dips, 
in  a  diredion  from  the  fea,  more  rapidly  than  the  other  ^  but 
it  is  not  yet  incommoded  with  water. 

At 'Milton,  the  lime-ftone  quarry,  which  confifted  of  bare 
rocks  within  flood  mark,  is  moftly  wrought  out.  Charles 
Scott,  Efq.  of  Criggie,  has  lately  opened  a  new  one, 
which,  it  is  hoped,  will  be  ufeful  to  the  country,  and  profitable 
to  himfelf. — At  Laurieston  there  is  an  excellent  free-ftone 
quarry,  of  a  brown  colour,  formed,  probably,  by  the  chemi- 
cal procefs  of  nature,  from  a  mixture  of  red  clay  and  fand. 
The  ftone  is  eafily  cut,  and  much  ufed  for  building,  in  Montrofe 
and  throughout  all  the  country.  The  quarrying,  and  carrying 
diefiBftoaea,  afford  employment  and  bread  to  many  in  the  pariili ; 

N  2  which 


I  oo  Statical  Account 

which  18  alfo  the  cafe  with  refpe£b  to  the  lune  quarries*-—' 
On  the  eftate  of  Woooston,  there  is  another  quarij  of  free- 
ilone»  in  every  refped  refembling  that  of  Laurieftoo.  The 
only  advantage,  that  the  latter  has,  is,  that  it  eafUy  difchargcs 
the  rain  water  that  falls  into  it,  owing  to  a  ftream  chat  mna 
through  the  den. — There  is  another  quarry  at  Whitjc  CRiaGS, 
facing  the  North  £ik,  from  which  are  turned  out  ftones,  of 
any  dimenfions,  of  a  beautiful  whitiih  colour,  fimilar  to  thoCe 
ufed  in  the  New  Town  of  Edinburgh;  but  being  reckoned  too 
hard  for  the  mafon's  chizd,  they  are  ufed  only  in  ruble  build- 
ing. There  is  another  quarry  of  the  fcurdy^  or  whin-ftoiie 
kind,  in  the  Heughs  of  St.  Cyrus,  of  a  dark  blua  colour, 
which  is  alfo  ufed  in  ruble  building. 

All  thefe  quarries  are  inexhauftible.  The  two  lad  men- 
tioned are  parts  of  long  chains  of  rocks,  which  run  through 
the  pariih,  from  W«  to^E.  all  the  way  alpng  the  coaft.  Near 
the  E.  ead  of  them  begins  a  fpecies  of  rock,  confiding  of 
pebbles,  baked,  as  it  were,  with  a  hard  cement,  (which  we 
call  the  plumh-'pudding  rocf)^  which  continues,  with  fome 
interruptions,  beyond  Stonehaven.-— The  fcurdy  rocks,  called 
\ht  Heughs  of  St.  Cyrust  may  perhaps  have  been  in  a  ftate 
of  vitrification  at  fome  rpmote  period.  Upon  this  fuppofition, 
the  vf ord /curdy  may  be  a  corruption  of  the  fcoria^  which  are 
the  efie^s  of  volcanic  fire.  However  that  may  be,  the  beautiful 
pebbles,  and  fpars  of  different  forts,  which  are  interqiixed 
with  thefe  rocks,  deferve  to  be  mentioned,  as  they  are  cer« 
tainly  well  worth  the  attention  of  thofe  who  delight  in 
mineralogy. 

CVzvr— Nigh  the  fall  of  the  burn  of  Woodilon,  on  the  W., 
there  is  a  natural  cave,  formed  by  the  rude  junftion  of  ftu- 
penduous  rocks,  after  the  manner  of  a  Gothic  arch.  The  en- 
trance to  it  is  on  a  level  with  the  fea,  and  the  rocks  and  earth 

rife 


(^  Ecckjgrcig^  or  St.  Cyrus. 


loi 


ti&  200  fieet  above  it*  The  roof  is  of  unequal  height,  and 
runs  out,  it  is  fiud,  an  unexplored  length  under  the  rocks 
that  form  it. 

Flawii  and  Herbs. — ^Whilft  the  mineralogift  would  find  pleab- 
fore  in  examining  the  rocks,  the  botanift  might  alfo  be  enter- 
tained with  the  herbs  and  plants,  which  are  to  be  found  either 
in  the  Heoghs  of  St.  Cyrus,  or  on  the  adjoining  ihore.  Pro- 
feflbr  Beattzx,  junior^  of  the  Marefchal  College,  Aberdeen, 
who  has  made  botany  a  good  deal  his  ftudy,  favoured  the 
wciter  of  this  article  with  the  following  lift  of  them : 


I.  Vakraam  oflkinalif, 

%m    PMCBBlptttOilCy 

3.  PUeom  aodofiim, 

4.  Fcftnca  fylvatica, 

5.  Bmmi  fterilb, 
6>  AiPtm  &tiui, 

7.  Anodo  aiaiaria, 
%m  Eljims  vomariiis  ^, 
9.  ScabcofrvTcoeiifif, 
la  GaajnBoh  gloiiierata» 
li«  Pdmooam  maritima, 
II.  AUinm  ^iaiak, 
xj.  Ramexmaritjinos, 
X4*  £|iilq^iiim  aogofti-faliaiD, 
15.  Epflpbiom  hirfatnm, 
x4.  SilcBc  asutna,  Sp.  pi.  f , 


Great  wiU  Yalerian* 

Cat*8  tail  graffl. 

Another  fpecicf  of  cat*a  tail  graft. 

Woodfefcne  grals. 

Barren  brome  graft. 

Bearded  oat  graft. 

Sea  reed  graft.  (Bent,  Scots). 

Sea  lime  graft. 

Com  fcabios. 

Lefler  Canterbury  belb. 

Seabugloft. 

Crow  garlic. 

Sea  docl:. 

Rofe  bay-willow  herb. 

Hoary  willow  herb. 

Sea  campion  of  Linn«uf.* 

z;.  Anterrhinnm 


*Mr.  IdOBTrooT,  in  hit  appendix  to  the  FUra  StttUa,  eiclndei  this  from 
tie  lift  of  native  plants:  It  is  undoubtedly,  however,  a  native  of  Scotland. 

tThe  plant  hero  intended,  though  undoubtedly  the /i^#  mnrMff  of  LiH« 
"US,  ftems  to  be  unknown  to  our  Bnglifli  botanifts.  None  of  them,  from 
GttAU>  downwards,  take  any  notice  of  it.  The  plant  they  have  miftaken  for 
it»  though  very  common  on  our  coafts,  agrees  not  with  Linnsus's  defcriptton, 
is  loy  one  fpecific  charj^dcr.    This  any  perfoa  may  be  convinced  of,  by  con- 

fiikiflf 


loa  Statljilcal  Account 

jf.  AntirrhinQm  linaria,  •  Toad  flax.  ^ 

18.  Turrkis  l^irfau,  -  Tower  muftard. 

19.  Silene  amzna,  Bot.  Ang.  -  Sea  campion, 
sa  Bancas  cakele,  .  Sea  rocket. 

ai.  Geraniam  fangainarium,  -  Bloody  crane*8  bill.     . 

«S.  Viciarylvatica,  -  Wood  vetch. 

aj.  Vicia  ftatjva  $,  -  Tare  ▼etch. 

54.  Aftragalus  arenariu%  -  Mountain  milk-wort. 

45.  Aftragalusglycyphyllos  -  Liquorice  vetch. 

26.  Hypericum  quadranqualum^  -% 

ay.  Hypericum  perforatum,      '  V   -  Three  fpecics  of  St.  John's  wort^ 

a8.  Hypericum  hirfutum,  ->                                                  [bed  at  noon- 

39.  Tragopogoo  pratenfe,  -  Yellow  goat's  beard,  or,  John  go  to 

30.  Crupes  tiaorum,  -  Succory,  or  Hawk*s  weed. 

31.  Carlina  vulgaris,  -  Carline  thiftle. 
39.  Eupatorium  cannabinum,  -  Hemp  Agrimony. 
33.  Conyza  fquarofa,  -  Spykenard. 

34*  Fili^o  Germanica,  -        Mountain  Cudword. 

Kame  of  Mathers. — Hard  by  the  fall  of  the  ftream  of 
Woodfton,  on  the  E.,  Hands  the  Kame  of  Mathers,  the  an- 
cient refidencc  of  the  Barclays.  This  karac  is  built  on  a 
peninfular  rock,  whofe  bafe  is  waQied  by  the  fea.  A  fmall 
part  of  the  ruins  of  this  ancient  building  now  remain.  It 
muft  undoubtedly  have  been  a  place  of  great  firength.  The 
accefs  to  it  is  by  a  narrow  and  almoH  impaiTable  ifthmus. 
The  rock  on  which  it  (lands  is  perpendicular,  and  its  height 

above  the  fea  60  feet*. 

Laurieftoiu 

fulttcg  Gerard*t^  Mwifm*t  or  Parhrfint  figure  of  the  JiUne  amana^  and  com- 
paring it  with  the  defcription  of  that  plant  in  the  $p€ei*s  Plantanm,  On  the 
other  hand,  the  filene  amaena  of  the  Eogliih  botanifts,  though  one  of  the  moft 
common  of  our  maritime  plants,  does  not  feem  to  be  at  all  defcribed  by  Linnaeus. 
§  1  his  differs  from  the  common  vieiafiaiiva^  in  hiTing  milk  white  flowers, 
and  only  one  upon  a  pedicle.     It  is  not  taken  notice  of  by  botanical  writers. 

^  Tradition  accounts  for  the  ere^on  of  this  fisftnefs  in  the  following  man- 
ner  :*-^The  (hcriffof  the  Mcaros,  Muville  by  name,  czerciXed  his  authority 

with 

5 


of  Ecclef^reig^"  or  St.  Cyrus.  103 

JLmarieJioM. — On  the  fide  of  the  Den  of  Lauriefton  ilands 
the  ancient  caille.  It  was  eredled  in  the  loth  or  nth  cen- 
turj  -|-.    It  was  formerly  furrounded  wich  a  deep  moat,  and 

walb 


with  a  high  hand.  He  of  coorfe  became  ohnoxiou»  to  the  gentlemen  of  the  coun« 
ty,  who  complained  of  his  condoA  to  the  king  then  reiguiog,  who,  it  isfaid,  wat 
James  1.  of  Scotland.  Barclay  of  Mathers,  in  particular,  made  frequent  and  repeat* 
cd  complaints;  tired  of  which,  in  a  moment  of  unguarded  impatience,  the  King 
fild  to  him,  "  Sorrow  gif  he  were  fotLUm  ^nAfapped  in  iru,**  As  your  Majsiily 
pleaies,  replied  Barclay,  who  inftantly  withdrew  from  the  royal  prcfcnce,  add 
conuDg  home  in  hafte,  convened  the  gentlemen  of  the  county,  who  were  a« 
mach  dii&tisfied  with  the  conduAof  the  iheriff,  as  he  was  hioifclf.  Having  met 
in  dole  cabal,  they  agreed  to  adhere  literally  to  the  King's  words,  and  to  make 
the  innocent,  but  aoguarded  ezpreifions  of  royal  impatience,  a  pretext  for  deftroy-* 
iag  the  iheriff.  In  order  to  accomplish  their  plan.  In  a  manner  the  leaH  likely 
CO  create  fufptdon  in  the  mind  of  Melville,  or  put  him  on  his  guard,  they  agrc:ed 
to  have  a  hunting-  party  on  the  forell  of  Garvock,  and  invited  him  to  make 
one  of  their  number.  In  the  noidft  of  the  hunting  ground,  a  fire  was  by  their 
diredioo  kindled,  and  a  caldron  full  of  water  boiled  upon  it.  In  the  midft  of 
their  fpoct,  they  luihed  with  fatal  dcfign  to  this  memorable  fpot,  feized  the  un« 
fafpc&ing  flkcriff,  ftripped  him  naked,  and  threw  him  into  the  boiling  caldron. 
After  he  was  boiled  for  fbme  time,  «r  /odt^n,  according  to  the  King's  cxpreffioo, 
they  took  each  a  fpoonful  of  the  fup  ;  fu  aficr  be  tvasfoddem,  tbey  fuppcd  bim  in  brUm 
When  the  King  heard  of  this  tragical  event,  he  was  highly  incenfed  againft  the 
gentlemen  of  the  Mearns,  and  particularly  againft  Bakclat,  Wishart,  and 
Ajlbotunott,  who  were  the  adlivc  and  leading  men  in  this  horrid  bufi- 
nefs.  To  fcrecn  himfelf  from  royal  vengeance*  Barclay  built  the  Kame  of 
Matben,  where  in  thofe  days  he  mud  haVe  been  very  fecure.  So  tradition  re- 
ports the  fiory,  and  many  firmly  believe  iL  Indeed,  compared  with  the  civi* 
lized  aod  gentle  manners  of  our  days,  thofie  of  our  forefathers,  in  every  part  off 
ScotJatid»  were  rude  and  barbarouk  From  the  natural  averfion  which  we  hsve 
to  every  fjpcocs  of  inhumanity  and  cruelty,  a  tragic  tale  of  thi«  fort  appenn 
icarcely  aediblc.  It  is  affirmed,  however,  that  there  is  extant,  amongft  d» 
papers  of  Arbnthnott,  a  royal  pardon  to  the  Laird  of  Arbuthoott,  for  being  art 
and  pert  .in  th>t  murder;  and  the  ground  of  this  pardon  wat  ^  bccaulc  he  ia 
^  wichio  the  Umib  dtgru  •/ kutdrU  to  lA'jyMi^  Thaoe  of  Fife  1" 

I  Ifi  the  zcigs  of  King  Datid  II.,  ia  the  year  Z3361  it  fell  into  the  hands  of 

the 


1 04  Stati/iical  Account 

walls  of  an  immenre  thtcknefs,  part  of  which,  with  two  of 
the  towers^  are  ftill  preferved,  and  incorporated  with  a  new 
and  elqjant  ftrufture,  built  on  the  fcite  of  tlie  old  caftle,  by  the 
pfcIcDt  proprietor.  The  greateft  part  of  the  eftate  is  beauti- 
fuUj  fituatedi  between  Den  Fenel  and  the  Den  of  Lauriefton* 
It  was  for  430  years  in  the  family  of  Stratou^  of  which 
riiere  were  many  who  fignalized  themfelves  by  their  valoar 
i&  ttirbulent  times*.  The  laft  lineal  reprefentative  of  this  fa- 
mily fold  the  eftate,  early  in  this  century,  to  Falconerof  Monk- 
ton,  and  died  without  iflue.  Jos£fh  Stratok,  £fq.  is  de« 
fcended  from  this  ancient  familyt  and  his  anceftors  hare  been 
more  than  300  years  Lairds  of  Kirkfide,  of  which  he  is  the 
prefent  proprietor*  From  the  heirs  of  Mr.  Falcoker,  the 
eftate  of  Lauriefton  was  lately  purchafed  by  John  Beakd, 
£fq.;  who  is  laying  out  the  grounds  near  the  houfe»  in  an  ex- 
ceeding good  tafte.  He  has  thrown  a  light  bridge  of  one  arch 
o^r  the  den,  which  leads  to  delight fnl  walks,  through  trees 
and  flirubs,  and  is  naturally  very  romantic,  though  before 
inaccellible. 

• 
Ci^Uo/ Morphy,  ^r.— On  the  S.  fide  of  the  Den  of  Mor- 
^hy  ftood  another  ancient  caflle,  the  feat  of  the  family  of 
Graham,  in  whofe  pofleflion  the  eflate  of  Morphy  has  beea 
tor  feveral  centuries.  It  was  once  a  place  of  confiderable 
firength,  and  fecured  from  the  attacks  of  an  enemy  by  a 

ditch 

tht  Sni^,  who  phced  a  ganifon  in  it,  ind  fitcpgtbcned  it  with  fettifleMioM. 
Befare  that  year  waa  expired,  the  Scotch,  under  the  conunaBd  of  Sir  AvMitw 
MaanAT,  forced  it  to  furrender, 

^ALKXAWDxa  STftAToxt,  who,  with  ferenl  of  hi*  font,  fell  in  the  mlor- 
tanaie  battle  of  Harkw,  in  the  year  i4n,  was  one  of  the  Lairds  of  Lauriefton. 
The  SraATONS  were  a  race  of  men  remarkable  for  iise  and  firength,  down  to 
«  Terjr  late  oeriod.  Their  atucbment  to  thit  Laoiixston,  in  St.  Cyma,  which 
if  the  original  one,  wai  io  great,  that  thej  changed  the  name  of  tverj  other 
place  io  Scotland,  where  any  of  them  fettkd,  into  LAuaiisTox. 


t  . 


^f  Ecclejgreig^  or  St.  Cyrus.  105 

dkch  and  draw-bridge,  according  to  the  genius  of  thofe  dajrs* 
but  noinr  few  remains  of  it  are  to  be  feen*     A  huge  Jquart 
fifuu  pillar^  of  about  X2  feet  high,  is  fiill  (landipg  at  Stone  of 
M^rpby^  and  feems  to  have  givcQ  rife  to  the  name*. 

Cibtfrfi&.— pA^bout  x6o  years  ago,  the  church  of  Ecclefgreig 
ftood  below  the  Heughs  of  St.  C/rus,  on  the  (hore,  nigh  the 
mouth  of  the  North  i^fk*     The  cburch-jard  there  ftill  couf 
tiuues,  and  is  uled  as  a  buiTing  ground  by  the  pariih  in  ge- 
neral f.     In  the  year  16311  this  very  incommodious  fituation 
of  the  church  was  changed,  and  a  new  one  built  on  an  emin* 
cnce,  a  little  above  the  Heughs  of  St-  Cyrus,  more  conveni- 
cut  to  the  pariih,  from  its  eafy  accefs,  and  centrical  fituation^. 
By  reafon  of  the  increase  of  the  population,  this  church  be- 
came too  fmall  to  accommodate  the  pari(h :  It  was  alfo  ill 
lighted,  and  narrow,  and  going  faft  to  decay.    The  heritor^ 
£» w  the  DcceiBty  of  buildiog  a  new  one  ^  and,  in  the  year 
1787,  they  finilhed  a  church,  which,  for  elegance  and  accom- 
modation, has  met  with  i^niverfal  approbation.     It  is  adorned 
iwith  a  fmall  fpire,  which  Ls  feen  at  a  conGderable  diftance. 
The  manfe  haa  beqi  repaired,  and  the  ofSce-houfes  rebuilt, 
)duriog  the  incumbency  of  the  prefent  minifter.     The  King  19 
f he  undoubted  patron  of  ^cclefgreig.     The  prefent  Itipend  is 
Vol.  XI.  0  85 


*  Whether  this  ancient  ptlbr  was  ere«fted,  to  preferre  the  men^ory  of  fome 
gallant  warrior  of  the  name  of  Graham,  or  whether  it  be  the  only  relick  of  a 
0niidical  temple,  it  la  difficult  to  determine.  But  ths  firft  conjeAure  feemi  to 
ht  cbe  moft  natural ;  becanfe  it  ia  (he  only  ftone  at  that  place,  and  goet  by  the 
same  of  The  Stome  of  MoarnT. 

f  Near  the  ehnrch-yard,  the  fea,  in  epnflux  with  the  Tarying  conrfe  of  the 
rirer,  difirovered,  fbme  yean  ago,  the  walla  of  a  houfe,  that  had  been,  from  time 
immemorial,  entirely  buried  under  the  fand.  From  its  dimcnfions,  internal 
ditifiona,  and  fitaation,  it  waa  vpdottbcedly  the  refideoce  of  the  ^^iniftera  in  aa« 
ctflpt  tsmei. 


jo6  Statiftical  Accoynt 

85  bolls  of  viftual,  partly  meal,  and  partly  bear,  and  26I.  i  %%. 
in  money.  But  an  augmentation,  with  the  concurrence  of 
the  heritors,  will  foon  be  obtained* 

ScboqL — ^The  fchool-houfe,  with  abundance  of  accommo* 
dation  for  the  fchool-ma(ler»  was  rebuilt  about  10  years  ago. 
The  prefbytery  have,  by  a  committee  of  their  number,  now 
twice  examined  the  fchools  within  their  bounds,  and  mean  to 
continue  the  piaftice  annually,  as  they  fee  the  bed  effedls  re« 
fulting  from  it.  In  general,  attention  is  paid  to  the  education 
of  youth,  and  their  morals  are  not  negleded.  Indeed,  it 
were  to  be  wifiied  that  more  encouragement  were  given  to 
men  who  have  fuch  an  important  trufi,  as  a  fpur  to  their  di<« 
ligence  in  oiEce,  if  it  would  have  that  eflfeft. 

Poor. — The  funds,  for  fupporting  the  poor,  arife  from  the 
intereft  of  their  mortified  money,  from  the  coUedions  made 
for  them  at  the  church,  and  from  the  fees  given  for  the  ufe 
of  their  mortcloths.  They  receive  nothing  from  marriages, 
or  baptifms,  and  very  little  from  the  iines  exafted  from  thofe, 
who  have  been  guilty  of  irregularity  of  conduct.  The  fol« 
lowing  is  a  fiate  of  the  number  of  the  poor,  and  of  the  funds 
for  fupporting  them,  from  the  year  1781,  to  the  year  179(9 
incluiive. 


Xcarc 


of  Ecckfgrcigj  or  St.  Cyrus.  toy 


Nfof 

Tnt^reft  of 

Colieaioni 

Fees  for 

1    Fines  for  ' 

Annoal 

ytaxt. 

Poor 

their  money. 

at  the  church 

diftribution. 

/.    1. 

<* 

/.    #.     d. 

/.    1. 

i/. 

/.    i. 

d. 

/.    «.     d. 

I78i 

37 

16  13 

0 

.%S  10    9^ 

»     4 

0 

0    0 

0 

44     7    9: 

f7«» 

38 

16  13 

Q 

»7    3  III 
26     a  lO: 

3     » 

6 

3     4 

8 

50    4    i^: 
44  13     4 ; 

17«3 

i8 

16  13 

0 

I  17 

6 

0    0 

0 

17«4 

50 

16  tz 

6 

22     8      0 

I  II 

0 

0  18 

< 

41  10     4» 

I7«i 

49 

16  xa 

0^ 

31    5     8J 

%    8 

0 

I.  10 

0 

39     I     8i 

Z7S6 

39 

16  13 

0 

35     8  10 

I  14 

9 

0'   0 

6 

53     6     7 

i787 

4» 

16  13 

0 

3»    9    4i 

4     I 

6 

0    6 

8 

53  10     6!; 

178S 

41 

16  13 

0 

44.    6     2i 

2   16 

6 

0    0 

0 

63  15    H 

1789 

38 

16  13 

0 

39  ^0    5 

3  10 

3 

I  10 

6 

ss    4   % 

X790 

37 

16  13 

0 

38  18     ai 

^    7 

3 

0    0 

0 

57  I  85 

1 791 

47 

16  13 

0 

40  II     i| 

»     7 

3 

0    S 

8 

59  18    oj 

This  fiate  o^  the  funds,  for  tfie  fupport  of  the  poor,  in« 
eludes  4  colledionsy  of  about  4L  each,  made  and  given  for 
the  fupport  of  the  lunatic  hofpital  at  IdEontrofe,  Deducing 
thejfe  coUedionSy  the  whole  Sas  bieen  diltfibuted  among  the 
poor« 

In  the  year  1783,  when  provifions  were  both  dear  and 
fcarce,  owing  to  the  failure  of  the  crop  in  17812,  the  fefllon,' 
in  concurrence  with  the  heritors,  broke  in  upon  their  funds,' 
and  bought  meal,  which  they  diflributed  gratis  auiong  the 
poor,  together  with  29  bolls  2  iirfots  li  peck  of  xneal  which! 
they  received  from  government.  Had  not  theie  feafonable 
reliefs  been  given,  it  is  not  ea(y  to  fay  what  would  have  been 
the  coofequence,  with  refpeft  to  the  poor,  even  in  this  opulent 
pari(h.  Under  this  denomination,  is  chiefly  meant  poor  la- 
bourers and  houfeholders  ;  for  we  hslve  very  few  mendicant 
poor ;  but  the  numbef  of  vagrants  and  drolling  beggars  is 
prodigious,  and  has  often  been  complained  of  as  an  infufiero 
able  hardibip. 


State  of  jfgrtcultvte.^'^i  all  the  parifii^  within  the  county 
of  Kincardine,  St.  Cyrus  has  been  the  firil  and  the  bed  meli- 
orated by  improvementt     To  this  the  lime  quarries  at  Milton 


lo8  Stafipcd  Account 

and  Etft  Mathers,  have  greatly  coDtributed.  Batthefe  tnight 
liave  perhaps  remained  in  their  original  ftate,  had  not  the  late 
RoBERt  ScoTr,  Erq.  of  DuNNlVAULD,  been  induced,  from  the 
lime  roekf  within  the  flood  mark  at  Milton,  to  rent  die  £aim 
bearing  that  name,  on  the  eftate  of  Laurieftoa.  As  he  was 
reprefentative  in  parliament  for  the  conntjr  of  Forfar,  which 
bis  fon  now  reprefcnts,.  in  going  up  and  coming  down  from 
X#ondon,  he  was  not  inattentive  to  the  fyftem  of  agricnltore 
followed  in  England.  Finding  it  fuperior  to  anj  hither- 
to praAifed  in  Scotland,  he  tried  to  follow  it,  firft  upon  his 
own  eftate,  and  afterwards  upon  the  farm  of  Milton.  He  fet 
the  example  of  draining,  ftoning,  liming,  fallowing,  cleaning, 
manuring,  and  properlj  drefling  the  fields  on  this  farm.  The 
confequence  was,  he  raifed  great  crops  of  all  forts  of  grain,  aa 
well  as  of  grafff.  The  farmers,  who  at  firft  held  his  plana  in 
deriCon,  and  were  unwilling  to  leave  their  own  old  beaten 
track,  began  to  be  furprifed  at  his  great  crops;  and  when  eVi- 
perience  demonftrated  to  them  the  fucce(s  of  his  fchemes^ 
they  gradually  turned  round  to  imitate  them.  Hence  aiofe 
a  fpirit  of  agriculture,  and  even  of  emnlation  in  it,  which  has 
produced  the  happieft  efieQs.  The  well  filled  bam  yards  af- 
ter harveft,  are  ftriking  and  folid  proofs  of  the  fuccels,  with 
which  this  fpirit  for  improvement  is  crowned.  The  prefent 
high,  and  ftili  rifing  rent  of  land,  is  another  proof  of  the  lame 
faft.  Twenty  years  ago,  los.  or  15s.  was  thought  a  high 
rent  for  an  acre  of  the  beft  land  in  the  pariih.  Now,  from  aos. 
to  30s.,  and  even  up  to  40s.  per  acre,  is  given  for  the  fame  land, 
in  confequence  of  its  melioration ;  and  no  fooner  does  a  leafe 
expire,  than  the  farmers  ftrive  with  one  another,  who  ihall  be 
tenant.  Another  proof  of  the  fiouriftiing  ftate  of  agricul- 
ture in  this  parifti,  is,  the  comfortable  manner  in  which  the 
farmers  can  afford  to  live.  Notwithftanding  the  rife  of  rent 
now  mentioned,  and  the  high  price  of  labour,  which  Ihall 

afterwasda 


ef  Ecdejgrfig^  cr  St.  Cyrus.  f  o^ 

afterwards  be  noticed,  tbe^,  in  general,  enjoy  a  pleafing  and 
agreeable  affluence,  and  have  it  in  their  power  to  bring  up  and 
educate  nnmerons  families,  and  provide  for  their  future  fettle- 
ment  in  the  world.  Such  are  the  happj  tStSt^  of  rural  ia* 
dnftrj! 

ilf oJf  ^Cultivation^ — The  common  mode  of  treatingland  here, 
is,  after  fnnimer  fallow,  to  lime  and  dung  it ;  and  then  to  fow, 
the  firil  year,  wheat  \  the  fecond,  peas  or  beans,  or  a  mixture 
of  both,  called  maJhUi;  the  third,  barley  or  Chefier  bear,  widi 
grab  feeds.  The  grafs  is.  commonly  cut  the  firft  year  for  hay, 
and  paflured  two  years  afterwards.  It  is  then  broke  up,  wi& 
one  furrow,  for  oats ;  next  year  it  is  fown  with  barley,  os 
Chefier  bear,  after  three  earths,  or  furrows ;  the  third  year,  it 
is  wrought  itito-a  finer  mould  for  turnips,  which  are  always 
fown  in  drills,  and  well  manured  ;  and  the  fourth  year,  it  is 
fown  with  barley  and  grafs  feeds.  When  the  foil  becomes 
{bttl,  and  is  over-run  with  weeds,  a  new  fummer  fallow  be« 
cooaes  neceflary  to  clear  it  ;  and  then  it  is  treated  in  the  manner 
now  defcribed.  There  are,  and  no  doubt  will  be,  feveral  al« 
(eratioos  from,  and  exceptions  to  this  general  fyftem.  While 
men  fpeculate  in  this,  as  upon  other  {ubjeQs,  they  will  invent 
new  plans,  and  experience  alone  muft  juftify  or  condemn  the 
alteration.  Sometimes  the  ground,  after  one  crop  of  hay,  is 
broke  up  with  the  plough,  in  the  beginning  of  autumn  ;  and 
wbeat  is  fown  with  fuccefs.  To  this  facceed  tomips,  or 
pcafe  and  beans ;  and  the  third  year  barley  and  grafs :  1 1  is  made 
bajtbe  fummer  following  }  then  paftured  for  a  year  or  two  j 
afterwards  plowed  for  oats.  Sec. 

Sometimes  the  land  thus  paftured,  is  taken  for  raifing^ir« 
The  flax  raifers  are  often  different  from  the  farmers,  and  pay 
them  5L  or  61.  an  acre,  for  a  fingle  crop  of  fuch  land  as  fnits 
their  purpofe.    They  pay  theexpence  af  the  feed,  the  fowing, 

4  the 


1 1  o  Statiftical  Acccmnt 

the  weeding,  the  pulling,  the  watering,  the  fpreading  on  and 
taking  off  the  grafs ;  in  (hort,  of  everj  thing,  but  drelEng  the 
land,  which  the  farmers,  from  whom  they  take  it,  do  for  them* 
Yet,  after  all,  thej  make  a  profit  by  it ;  otherwife,  whj  would 
thej  continue  the  fame  prafiice  jear  after  year?  If  the 
farmer,  however,  were  to  cultivate  the  flax  himfelf,  which  is 
fometimes  the  cafe,  he  would  doubtlefs  make  more  profit  by 
it  \  but  it  may  be  a  queftion,  whether  the  high  rent  he  receives 
be  not  equivalent  for  it  ?  The  crop  of  flax  is  always  removed 
in  fufficient  time,  to  allow  him  to  fow  his  land  with  wheat, 
which  is  often  done  to  advantage. — About  a  third  part  of 
t^rtTj  farm  is  referved  far  hay  and  pallure. 

Blaci  Cattlt. — Confidering  how  much  of  this  pariih  is  aU 
ways  under  crop,  and  how  little  is  referved  for  pafture,  it 
mud  be  obvious,  that  the  number  of  black  cattle  ^cannot  be 
great.  Yet,  if  the  young  are  included  with  the  old,  the  whole 
number  will  amount  to  1150.  Of  thefe  there  are  100  ozen» 
all  trained  to  the  yoke.  They  are  reared  in  the  parifti  ^  and, 
after  ferving  their  matters  4  or  5  years,  are  carried  to  market, 
and  fold  to  great  advantage.  The  price  they  bring  is  often 
from  lol.  to  15].  The  number  of  milk  cows  is  about  420. 
The  reft  are  young  cattle,  none  of  them  exceeding  3  years  old. 

Horfes  and  Sheep. — There  are  204  draught,  and  10  faddle 
horfes  in  the  pariih.  The  number  of  ihecp  is  inconiiderable  : 
1000  will  comprehend  every  little  flock  in  the  parifti.  What 
Iheep  we  have,  however,  are  of  a  good  kind :  Thofe,  in  parti* 
cular,  that  feed  near  the  ihore,  furniflx  mutton  of  an  excellent 
quality. 

Floughgates  and  Produce. — There  are  50  horfe,  and  10 
oxen  ploughgates  in  the  pariih|  allowing  4  horfes  and  6  oxen 

to 


of  Ecckjgreigt  or  St.  Cyrus.  m 

to  the  plough.  From  the  number  of  work  oxen,  it  might  be 
fuppofedy  that  there  would  be  more  oxen  ploughs:*  But 
many  of  the  farmers  keep  12  oxen  to  one  plough,  yoking  one 
half  in  the  forenoon,  and  the  other  half  in  the  afternoon.  By 
(liefe  means,  they  have  time  to  feed,  and  the  men  who  manage 
theoa  are  kept  in  conftant  work.  If  we  fappofe  every  plough- 
gate,  to  fpare  from  its  produce  100  bolls  for  fale,  (and  the 
computation  is  very  moderate),  it  will  amount  to  6^00  bolls 
yearly,  partly  wheat,  partly  barley,  partly  oat-meal,  and 
'partly  beans  and  peafe,  after  paying  the  rent,  fowing  the  land, 
and  every  other  expence  that  attends  agriculture. 

Proprietors  and  U^fr/.— There  are  11  heritors  In  the  parifli*, 
and  27  confiderable  farmers,  befides  many  more  of  fmaller  note* 
The  valaed  rent  is  6,277!.  2s.  4d.  Scotch ;  the  real  rent,  include 
ing  850I.  fbrfalmon  fi(hing,  and  lol.  for  kelp,  is  3778I.  Sterling. 
This  flate  of  the  real  rent  may  not  be  perfefily  accurate,  be- 
caufe  3  of  the  proprietors  have  the  greateft  part  of  their  eQates 
in  their  own  hands  ;  but  it  is  fuppofed  to  be  near  the  truth. 
If  the  progrefs  of  agriculture,  for  20  years  to  come,  (hall  bear 
any  proportion  to  what  it  has  been  for  the  fame  number  of 
years  pad,  it  ii  more  than  probable,  that  the  real  rents  of  the 
parifli  will  be  as  many  pounds  Sterling,  as  the  valued  rents 
are  now  pounds  Scotch. 

Population. 


«  Vk.  William  Adam,  Elq.  of  Woodfton,  M.  P.— James  Scott,  Efq.  of 
Brocbcrtoa  ; — Robert  Graham,  Efq.  of  Morphy,  a  minor;— the  Earl  of  Kin- 
tore  ;— the  Vifcount  of  Arbuthnott ;— Sir  Alexander  Ramfay  Irvine  of  Balmain, 
Eart.;— John  Bmnd,  Efq.  of  Laurietton  ;— Charles  Scott,  Efq.  of  Criggic;— 
Jamea  Scott,  Efq,  of  Comifton,  a  minor  ;^Patrick  Orr,  Efq.  of  Bridgetooi^ 
^  Joieph  Stntt4Mi,  Efq.  of  Kirkiida.    The  five  Ua  rciide  ia  the  pariih. 


119  St0i/lkal  Account 

PopttJation -^Tht  populatioa  has  incretfed  coii6denUy 
wilhia  thefe  40  jears. 

In  the  yev  1 755*  die  oumber  of  foah,  in  the  piriih,  vtt     -     1271 

Ift               1781,       ...       -         ...     16S7  416 

to ^  X7«5, «r04  X7 

to    ■■■■     I7M» 1750  46 

|o I79»»       ♦ '7*3  »3 

Tetal  incmfe  in  37  yearh       •  49^ 

Tbe  nnmber  of  children  bora  in  the  parifh  is,  anummmbu^ 
0ttMu^  about  6o.  The  marriages  feldom  e;Fceed  la.  Indeed^ 
fome  years,  they  are  not  above  half  that  number.  With  re- 
gard to  funeralsi  no  regi|l^  acconut  of  them  has  been  hither* 
to  kept  in  the  pariib« 

^TbjTfy.— The  principal  village  in  the  parifh  is  Miltok, 
which  ftands  on  the  fea  coaft.  In  the  year  1781,  there  were 
46  families,  containing  170  perfons,  in  this  village.  Their 
number  is  at  prefent  on  the  increafc.  About  30  years  ago, 
three  filhbg  boats  belonged  to  Milton.  Six  men  went  out  to 
fea  with  each  boat;  who  caught  haddocks,  whitings,  cod,  ling, 
ikate,  tarbot,  and  common  flukes,  or  flounders,  in  great  abund- 
ance,  which  they  fold  at  moderate  prices.  For  feverai  years 
piaft,  there  has  been  but  one  boat  employed  in  the  white  fi(h« 
ing ;  nor  has  that  boat  been  fuccefsful.  The  redu^lion  of  the 
fifliiag  boats,  and  of  the  number  of  hands  that  went  to  fea 
with  them,  is  without  doubt,  a  real  lofs  to  the  country.  It 
leaves  no  foundation  for  a  nurfery  of  feamen,  and  prevents 
the  inhabitants  from  enjoying  that  abundant  fupply  of  excel- 
lent  food,  with  which  the  fea  is  ftored. 

Thefe  inconveniences  might,  however,  be  in  a  great  mea« 
fttfc  remedied.  The  fiihermen  are  fo  poor,  in  general,  that 
though  fix  of  them  join  their  little  docks  together,  they  can- 

oof 


of  Ecclefgretg^  or  St.  Cyrus.  113 

itot  afford  to  purchafe  a  new  boat,  when  their  old  one  fails. 
Now,  if  the  proprietors  of  fi(hing  villages  were  to  furnilh  the 
men  with  good  boats,  with  all  their  necefTarj  tackling,  upon 
their  paying  a  reafonable  rent,  as  intereft  for  the  monej,  this 
would  be  a  beneficial  public  fpirited  meafure,  and  would 
greatly  encourage  the  fifhing*  Another  ^mode  of  encouraging 
thisnfefulclafs  of  men  might  alfobe  adopted.  Every  one  knows, 
that  accidents  are  continually  happening,  by  which  the  heads 
of  the  families  employed  in  fiihing  lofe  their  lives.  The 
confequence  is  of  tb^  mod  diftreiliog  nature  to  their  numerous, 
and,  very  often,  young  families,  who  are  frequently  left  in  the 
moft  dellitute  circumftances.  Now  if  the  county,  or  if  go« 
vemment,  fenCble  of  the  ufefulnefs  of  this  clafs  of  men,  for 
recruiting  the  navy,  would  provide  fubiidence  for  them  in 
thefe  cafes,  on  this  exprefs  condition,  that  all  the  male  children 
fhould  be  brought  up  to  the  fame  occupation,  and  be  ready  to 
ferve  his  Majcfty  in  cafe  of  a  war,  it  would  have  the  efFeil, 
both  to  relieve  the  diilrefTed  families,  and  to  increafe  the 
number  of  that  hardy  and  ufeful  race  of  men  *•  Indeed,  it 
is  well  known,  that  fcarce  any  but  the  children  of  fi(hermei| 
follow  the  occupation  of  their  fathers,  and  that  they  are  a 
kind  of  diftinft  tribe,  by  their  manners,  aod  by  intermarrying 
only  with  each  other. 

TXf  Village  of  St.  Cyrus  ftands  befide  the  church,  nigh  the 
centre  of  the  pariQi.  It  contains  144  inhabitants,  who  are 
moftly  mechanics,  falmon  iiflicrs,  or  day  labourers.  Indeed, 
no  neighbouring  pariih  exhibits  fo  cheerful  and  populous  an 
an- appearance  ;  for,  from  one  end  to  the  other,  the  traveller 
fees,  on  all  hands,  numerous,  fubdantial,  lyell  built  cottages 
of  ftone,  fome  of  them  hewn  flone,  with  well  proportioned 
windows,  introducing,  at  once,  light  and  cheerfulnefs  into  the 

Vol.  XL  P  habitations  ^ 

*  It  miglit  alfo  tend,  in  a  great  degree,  if  not  entirely,  to  fuperfede  the  ne- 
ceificy  of  adopting  the4iarib,  unpopular  and  unconftitutional  meaTur^  of  lu^ 
raessiNG  Skamen, 


1 1  i^  $k:tiftkal  Account 

habitations  \  beCdes  a  number  of  gentlemen*s  feats  and  farm« 

houfes,  built  in  a  very  fuperior  ftile» 

* 
CbaraGer.—'Thc  people  of  this  parifh  are,  in  general,  aftive 

and  induftrious  :  Thofc  ewiployed  at  the  litne  quarries,  and 
the  falmon  fiflieries,  particularly  deferve  this  charader.  The 
former,  working  by  the  yard,  obferve  the  maxim,  ••  The 
more  they  work,  the  more  they  win,"  (gain).  The  latter, 
whcti  not  filhing,  employ  themfelves  in  their  refpeftivc  trades, 
or  labour  by  the  day  to  thofe  who  employ  theni  *.  The  fe- 
male part  of  the  parifh  is  not  behind  the'men  in  point  of  in- 
duflry.  They  are  excellent  fpinfters,  and  perform  the  opera- 
tion with  both  hands,  fpinning  two  threads  at  once  with  the 
greated  facility.  It  is  a  common  and  an  eafy  talk,  for  one  of 
thefe  two-handed  females,  to  fpin  3  fpindles  in  the  we^k ; 
which,  at  the  rate  of  is.  3d.  the  fpindle,  comes  to  3s.  pd. 
The  writer  of  this  narrative  is  informed,  that,  excepting  in 
harveft,  500  fpindles  of  coarfe  yarn  are  fpun  weekly  in  the 
])ari(h.  This  quantity  of  yam  muft  bring,  at  the  rate  above 
ftated,  31L  in  the  month;  and  allowing  this  to  continue  IQ 
monthSi  the  total  fum  made  by  fpinnbg,  in  the  parifh,  muft 

amount 


*  The  common  hire  of  the  day  labourer  U  Sd.  in  the  (hort,  and  xb.  the  long 
day,  without  maintenance.  But,  in  harveft,  the  men  have  is.,  and  the  women 
jod.,  befides  vidnalt.  The  farm  fervanti  are  exceUent  ploughmen.  The  Scotch 
plough  alone  is  ufed.  Their  wages  are  lately  advanced  from  61.  to  7L,  8L,  and 
even  xol.  for  the  year's  fcrvice.  They  ufually  vfork  1  horfet,  4  hours  in  the 
forenoon,  and  4  hours  in  the  afternoon.  The  married  fervants,  who  live  in 
their  own  houfes,  are  allowed  2  pecks  of  oatmeal  in  the  week,  and  one  half- 
penny a  day,  for  maintenance.  They  are  engaged  by  their  maftcrs  at  a  public 
^arkct,  without  any  certificate  of  their  chara<Ser,  and  often  without  any  know- 
ledge of  their  capacity  for  work.  One  of  thefe  markets  for  hiring  frrvants  is  ^ 
held  on  the  Hill  of  Garvock,  and  the  other  at  Laurencekirk.  T^he  congrcfs  of 
matters  and  fervants,  at  thefe  places,  is  very  numerous,  and,  almoft  in  ever; 
point  of  defer iptloo,  refcroblet  the  Saturnalia  q[  the  ancient  Romans. 


of  EccUfgnig^  or  Sh  Cyrusi  1 1  j 

vmount  to  310I.  a  year.    The  yam  is  manufa£lured,  at  Mon«, 
trofe,  into  {ail-cloth  and  other  purpofes.    In  the  above  cal« 
dilation,  the  fine  yam,  which  is  fpun  in  the  parilhy  and  made 
into  linen  and  diaper  for  the  ufe  of  families,  is  not  included. 
This  induftrlous  fpirit  in  both  fexes  is  very  cocnmendable  f  • 

The  rettgious  cbdra&er  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  parifb  13 
moderate.  They  neither  run  into  the  extreme  of  fuperll'u 
tion,  on  the  one  hand,  nor  of  fanaticifm  oii  the  other;  III 
truth,  their  i-eligion  is  of  the  calm  mild  call ;  and  they  make 
no  great  noife  or  bulUe  about  it,  though  they  are  very  regu- 
lar in  attending  its  inftitutions.  The  gentlemen  of  landed 
property,  5  of  whom  refide  in  the  pariih,  are  of  the  Epifcopal 
communion  ;  yet  they  very  frequently,  and  almoft  regularly, 
attend  the  Eftabliihed  Church,  fetting  at  once  an  example 
both  of  piety  and  liberal  fentiment,  and  increafing  the  poor's 
funds  by  their  voluntsiry  oSerings.  There  are  a  few  Seceders^ 
who  join  a  meeting  in  the  neighbouring  pariAi  of  Benholm  i 
but  their  number  is  fmall ;  and  they  make  little  noife  or  dif- 
tnrbance,  except  for  reform,  which,  perhaps,  as  indiiiidumh^ 
amtj  ftand  very  much  in  need  of. 

P  %  NUMBER 


\  Smogglisg  had  a  yttj  bad  tendenqr,  iome  time  ago,  to  mllliiige  the  prin^ 
cipks  of  moraUcy  among  the  lower  clafies  of  people  on  this  coatl:  but  the  late 
wific  regulation* 'of  government  have  gone  far  to  fapprcfs  it ;  and  in  proportion 
aa  tbcj  have  taket^cAcift,  the  morals  of  the  pco£>lc  have  improved. 


1 1 6  Slati/iical  Account 


NUMBER    VII. 


PARISH    OF    F GULDEN. 

{fiounty  of  Berwick — PreJbyUry  of  Chirnfide — Synod  ofMerJe 
and  T'rviotdahJ) 


By  the  Rev.  Do6ior  David  Young. 


Extent  and  Soil, 

HE  pariih  of  Foulden,  in  its  form,  approaches  nearer  to 
that  of  a  fquare  than  nnj  other ;  and,  in  breadth,  is  about  ^ 
nxUes^  and  in  length  2(.  The  foil,  on  the  S.  fide,  is  a  (Irong 
clay ;  towards  the  middle  of  the  parifti  it  beconoes  more  loamj, 
and  on  the  N.  it  turns  confiderablj  light. 

CuhivatioH*cmd  Prodttce.^^Thc  whole  lands  in  this  pariAi  lay 

Satmcrly  run^rigg  ;  which,  however  nnfavourable  to  improvct- 
mcnt,  was  indifpenfably  neceffary,  as  a  bond  of  defence  in 
thofe  days,  when  the  inhabitants  of  the  Borders  were  in  the 
pra£kice  of  committing  depredations  upon  one  another.  Al- 
though thefe  afts  of  plunder  were  relinquifhed,  after  the  revolu- 
tion in  i688y  it  was  not  till  within  thefe  40  years,  that  a  full  divi. 
4  fioa 


of  FoulJcrt.  lij 

fion  of  property  took  place ;  bat  fince  the  lands  were  divided, 
tbej  have  been  in  general  well  inclofed,  and  brought  to  a  coft« 
fiderable  degree  of  cultivation.  They  yield  plentiful  crops 
of  wheat,  barley,  oats,  peafe,  tomips,  potatoes,  and  gra(s« 

Renij^  Cattle^  He. — Although  thefe  lands  fully  bear  the 
ahove  defcription  of  foil  and  good  quality,  the  beft  of  theni» 
cs£q»tiog  fome  crofts,  were  let  no  higher  than  zos.  per  acre; 
but  fince  the  old  leafes  expired,  they  are  now  advanced  from 
105.,  to  aos^  30s.,  and  even  405.,  which  is  not  too  high,  con- 
CderiBg  the  ftiort  diftance  from  market  and  lime.  Formerly^ 
a  large  traA  of  land,  on  the  north  fide  of  the  parifls,  called 
FauidiH  Muitj  waft  occupied  by  the  refidenters  in  the  village^ 
by  way  of  ftents,  or  pad  are  for  cows  and  horfes,  and,  in  that 
ibite,  paid  very  little  rent.  The  grafs  of  thefe  grojtnds  being 
always  in  great  plenty,  and  of  good  quaiity,  fuggefted  the 
advantage  of  bringing  them  into  a  ftat>d  of  cultivation.  About 
30  years  ago,  when  improvements  in  agriculture  were  intro- 
duced into  this  part  of  the  country,  this  piece  of  land  was 
accordingly  plowed  up,  and  yeildcd  a  profufe  crop,  from  a. 
good  foil.  It  was  foon  after  let  out  into  different  farms,  which 
now  pay  aboat  300I.  of  yearly  rent.  Some  part  of  this  land 
has  been  found  unfit  for  hufbandry,  and  is  lately  planted  with  ' 
&n,  which  promife  a  good  return  in  due  time.  Lime  is  vety 
much  u£td  in  thia  part  of  the  country.  There  is  fiiell  marl 
id  the  parifli,  but  it  has  never  been  properly  tried  ;  and,  for  a 
number  of  years  paft,  it  has  been  entirely  negleded.  There 
i3  nodiing  remarkable  in  the  mode  of  hu&andry,  nor  in  the  in- 
Uraments  employed  in  it.  The  breeding  or  feeding  of  Iheep 
^as  not  been  triedhere,  although  great  part  of  the  lands  are 
^cry  fit  for  both  purpofes.  The  late  proprietor  had  a  fine 
laftc  for  the  breeding  and  feeding  of  cattle.  His  horfes  were 
^tcbeftin  the  country,   and  it  is  but  "3  years   fince  the  laft 

of 


\it  Statifiicd  Account 

of  his  breed  of  oxen  were  fold.     One  ox  weighed  128  Xloni:^ 
and  was  of  a  verj  fine  ihape  and  make* 

Climate^  River ^  ^r.-^This  parifli,  and  fome  other  lands  ad« 
jointag,  (land  upon  a  confiderable  elevation,  which  continues 
to  rife,  towards  the  N.,  for  a  miles;  and  then  flopes  gradumlljr^ 
until  it  reaches  the  fea  banks,  which  are  very  high  and  rocky. 
There  is  a  river,  called  Wbittadder^  which  runs  on  the  S. 
fide,  and  empties  itfelf  into  the  Tweed,  near  Berwick.      Xhe 
bed  of  the  river  is  very  deep,  l>cing  in  no  place  under  40 
yards,  and  in  many  places  50  yards,  from  the  top  of  the  bank. 
Thefe  banks  are  cut,  upon  the  N.  fide,  into  very  deep  dens 
by  nature,  through  which  rivulets  of  water  run,  from  th^ 
whole  lands  in  the  neighbourhood,  throughout  the  year.  Thefe 
circttu^nces,  added  to  an  almoft  unbounded  profpeft  to  the 
S.  and  W.,  muft  contribute  to  render  the  air  pure  and  dry, 
and  confequently  le(s  fufceptible  of  noxious   or  infieAious 
taints.     It  has  been  frequently  remarked  here,  that  the  di& 
eafes,  which  are  peculiar  to  our  climate,  fuch  as  intermittent 
and  common  continued  fevers,  putrid  fever,  and  fore  throat, 
are  fcarce  known  amongft  us,  whitd  they  are  fometimes  very 
frequent  and  mortal,  in  the  parilhes  immediately  adjoining. 
Thefe  difeafes  have  indeed  made  their  appearance  here  at  fuch 
times,  but  unaccompanied  with  that  malignity,  which  rendered 
them  fo  fatal  to  tbofe  attacked  with  them,  in  lefs  elevated 
and  more  moiil  fituations.     For  thefe  7  years  and  upwards, 
only  one  young  perfon  has  died,  a  female  of  x6  years  of  age, 
and  one  child.     Good  health  is  enjoyed  through  life,  witii 
very  little  interruption ;  and,  except  thefe  two,  none  have 
died  (refiding  in  this  pariih),  during  the  above  mentioned 
period,  who  had  not  reached  at  leait  6o  years ;  and  it  is  not 
unfrequent  to  attain  the  age  of  So,  and  even  90  years,  in  the 
full  poffeffion  of  every  faculty. 

PopulatiQn. 


of  IpQuldeUn  H9 

Po^iJation.'^' As  the  records  have  not  been  regularlj  kept| 
the  ancient  ftate  of  the  population  cannot  be  precifely  afcer* 
tiined.      A  confiderable  village,  containing  about  60  families, 
being  now  reduced  to  z6  only,  is  fuppofed  to  have  diminifhed 
the  population ;  and  it  is  the  opinion  of  old  refidenters,  that 
the  number  of  fouls  is  not  fo  great  now,  as  it  was  40  years  ago; 
although,  qpon  comparing  the   average  of  baptifms  for  the 
kft   7   years,  with  that  of  the  fame  number  of  years  half  a 
century  ago,  there  appears  to  be  very  little  difference.    Hence 
fome  incline  to  think,  that  although  a  number  of  old  people 
have  died,  and  feveral  others  have  left  the  bounds  to  refide 
elfcwhere,  the  permanent  population  is  fiill  nearly  the  fame  ; 
and  the  reafon  they  give,  is,  that  feveral  new  farms  have  been 
erc6ted,  with  a  number  of  houfes,  containing  many  families, 
which  bear  a  near  proportion  to  the  reduftion,  which  has  taken 
place  in  the  village.     The  former  opinion,  however,  feems 
neareft  the  truth,  the  return  to  Dr.  Webfter,  in  1755,  having 
been        --------         465 

^nd  the  number  of  perfons  at  prcfent  (1793),  being  only  344 

Decreafe,        «         X2Z 

Animal  aTcnje  of  births,        •  6  PcrfoBt  under  xo  yean  of  age,     xoo 

■                          marriages,       -  I  .  ■   ..     between  10  and  »o,      -     40 

deaths,          -  X  oo  and  50,     -     170 

Number  of  males,        -        ^  1 70  50  and  70,     -      30 

females,           •  174  *-^—      ■             70  at  d  90,      -      4 

Eechjiajlical  Staic^^Thc  number  of  Seceders  is  very  in- 
confiderable  ^  fo  that  the  people,  in  general,  attend  the  ordi* 
oapces  of  religion  in  the  parifii  church ;  which  was  rebuilt  in 
1786.  The  manfe  was  built  about  14  years  before.  The  (lipend, 
by  a  late  decreet  of  augmentation,  is  56I.  los.  in  money, 
Bod  three  chalders  and  a  half  of  barley  and  oatmeal,  equal 
parts.     There  is  an  allowance  of  al^  los.  for  the  ezpeaces  of 

the 


Xia  Statlftkal  Account 

the  facrament;  and  the  glebe  and  garden  is  worth  3ol.  Sterlbg^ 
Jamcs  Wilkie  of  FouLBENy  £fq.  is  patron*. 

AutiqttitUs. — ^There  is  an  old  ruin,  called  FoulJen^  which 
appears  to  have  been  a  place  of  fecuritj  and  ftrength,  in  the 
times  of  the  Border  contcfts.  There  is  alfo  a  property,  called 
Nwilands^  where  there  was  an  e&ablifliment  of  nuns  in  former 
times  ;  but  no  record  or  tradition  has  been  met  with^  that  gives 
Wiy  hiftorj  of  cither  f* 

Markets  and  Roads. — There  are  2  fairs  held  annually  in  the 
village ;  but  little  or  no  bufinefs  is  done  at  them.  A  very 
few  cattle  appear  fometimes  for  fale,  and  a  fmall  quantity  of 
wool.  Formerly,  great  quantities  of  flioes  were  fold  at  the 
fairs  here,  add  were  bought  by  the  people  in  Northumber- 
land.— The  roads  in  this  neighbourhood  have  lately  under- 
gone a  great  repair,  in  confequence  of  feveral  turnpikes  hav* 
log  been  ere£led. 

NUMBER 


«  Tlitin-efeat  incumbent  fbcceedcd  Mr  Jonii  BucbahaNi  whole  predccet 
lor,  Mr  Robert  Pamk,  was  the  fifft  Pnibyterian  minifter  of  thi*  pariib  aftd* 
ti^e  Revolution  in  1688  \  the  Epifcr.-pal  clergyman  having  continued  in  the 
charge  about  eleven  year^  after  Prelbyterian  churdi-govemment  was  cilablilhe 
in  Scotland. 

f  There  was  alfo  a  fortified  wall  on  the  caft  end  of  the  village  of  FouWen, 
the  remains  of  which  were  taken  down  fome  years  ago.  1  he  chief  dcfign  of 
it  fcems  to  have  been,  for  a  defence  to  the  refidence  of  Loan  Ross,  who  toA 
«n  a^ive  part  in  the  wars  between  England  aod  Scotland,  and  who  was  propric* 
for  of  the  eilate  of  Fouldcn  id  thole  days. 


bf  Kitmore  and  kiihrtdi.  Hi 

NUMBER    VllL 

tJNiTEi>  Parishes  ofkilivIore  ANit 

KILBRIDE. 

(^Countj  and  Synod  of  ArgylU^VrefbyUry  of  torn^ 

'    6y  thi  Riv.  Mr^  F^atrick  M'Dokald,  Minifer; 


Origin  of  the  Names: 

THE  oldei!  etfjmology  of  Kilmore^  is  KiLmoin:  Oy\  ok*' 
Oigb^  figtiifjingfy  in  aocient  Griaelicy  the  church,  or  pla^e  of 
^orihip,  of  the  Uefled  Virgin.  It  was  alfo  called  Kilmbeanacb^ 
tf  the  middle  burial  place,  from  being  in  the  centre  of  the  coun- 
try. Lately  it  had  beieu  called  KHmar^  that  is,  the  griat  burying 
ptace^  (fnor  figuifying  great  or  large),  becaufe  the  burial 
ground  arotrnd  this  church  was  fotmerly  of  greater  extent, 
than  any  other  hi  0iis  part  of  the  country.  Eilbkid^  is  alfo' 
derived  froni  the  fame  root,  JTt/,  and  fignifies  a  burial  place, 
dr  (dace  of  worlbip,  dedicated  to  Si,  Bridget.  The  church  was 
ftbntk  about  50  years  ago.  It  is  fuppdfed  to  have  been- 
joined  to  the  pariih  of  KilVnore,  at  the  union  of  many  other'' 
pariflies  in  the  Highlauds,  under  the  charge  of  one  miniUer. 
K^ilbride  was  a  vicarage,  and  Kilnolore  a  parfonage. 

Vot.  Xk  Q;,  Situation^' 


Il2  Statijiical  Account 

Situaiion,  Extent^  Wr— Thcfc  united  pari(hes  arc  ficiiate^ 
in  that  diftria  of  ArgyllihiK  called  Mid  Lorn.  Kilmore  is 
the  feat  of  the  prtlbylcry.-  They  are  7  miles  long,  and  6 
broad^  and  in  their  form  nearly  circolar.  The  number  of 
acres  cannot  be  afcertained.  An  ifiand  is  annexed,  facing 
0ban^  named  Ktrera^  which  is  3  miles  in  length.  It  is  tlie 
property  of  Mr.  M'Dougal  of  that  ilk,  excepting  one  farm, 
which  belongs  to  Lord  Breadalbane; 

Suffaci  and  5oi/.— The  country  is  hiHy,  but  not  motui* 
tatnous.  The  hills,-  tbough  low,  are  covered  with  heath,  ex« 
cepting  a  few  that  are  cropped  by  the  (heep,  which  are  ia« 
creafing  in  the  parilh.  The  valliea  are  generally  arable.  The 
foil  is  different  in  different  farms  ;  but  for  the  moft  part  (hal- 
low and  fpouty.  In  miiny  places  it  is  mofljr,  in  fome  clayi(h 
and.  in  others  fandy,  mixed  with  gravel.  This  parifli,  like 
moil  others  in  this  county^  is  more  calculated  to  produce  grafs 
than  com ;  yet  it  yields  as  large  a  proportion  of  the  latter  as 
any  of  the  adjacent  pariihes  ;  and  from  the  increafing  know- 
kdge  of  agriculture  in  this  part  of  the  country,  more  and  . 
more  of  the  arable  lands  are  annually  brought  into  cultiva* 
lion* 

Climate  andDifeafes^  ^c. — ^Though  the  rainy  feafon,  in  thi^ 
part  of  the  country,  continues  nearly  two  thirds  of  the  year^ 
yet  the  health  of  the  inhabitants  does  not  fufier,  fo  much 
as  might  be  imagined  y  but  the  grain  is  much  injured  by  it, 
Weilerly  winds  prevail  to  a  great  degree ;  but  fevere  frofis,* 
or  great  falls  of  firow,  feldom  occur. — This  parifli  is  liable  ta 
no  particular  maladies.  Fevers  and  fluxes  arc  not  more 
common  than  in  the  lower  parts  of  the  kingdom.  Golds  and 
iheumatifms  are  a  little  more  prevalent,  owtAg  perhaps  to  the 
humidity  of  the  air.     Inflances  of  longevitjr  fometimes  occur. 

A  few 


(f  KHmore  and  Kiliride.  195 

A.  few  are  now  Xvnng  in  this  parilhi  aged  90  jiears  and  fip- 
vnda,  aii4  a  few  oth^s  died  lately  about  the  lame  age. 

Cuhiva^n. — The  mode  of  plowing,  for  20  yean  pad,  waa 
\j  4  holies  a)M%^i  but  now,  %  ooly  are  nfed,  which  has  been 
found  by  experience  to  aufufer  better*,  The  implements  of 
hufbandry  havt  of  late  undergone  a  very  confiderable  degree 
of  improvementt  inlpmucb,  that  they  are  almoft  equal  to  any 
ufed  in  the  mod  improve^  parts  of  Scotland.  Within  thefe 
12  or  14  ycar$,  the  ufe  of  carts  has  become  congiinon,  both 
among  the  gpntry  a|id  the  fanpers,  who  are  fenfible  of  the 
great  ntility  pf  them.— The  manures  ar^  chiefly  produced  by 
^ttle  butfidj  or  iuclofed  in  movpaUe  fcJdS)  from  field  to  field. 
Sea  wafe  is  alfo  ufed,  mize4  with  mofs  and  earth.  Shell  land^ 
not  being  fo^nd  in  this  part  of  Xhp  country,  is  brought  from 
the  wel^em  parts  of  t^p  cpuoties  of  Rols  and  Inyemels.  Ic 
is  laid  on  the  lee  grounds,  prod^pes  good  crops^'and  aftervrard^ 
greatly  enriches  (be  pile  of  grafy.  liine-ftoni:  ia  found  here  ; 
bot  the  |ife  of  it  is  in  a  great  meafure  totally  prevented,  by 
the  expenfiTcnels  of  the  fuel  in  this  pariih.  The  quantity  of 
rain  which  falls  here  is  fo  great,  as  to  injure  much  the  peat  or 
turf;  yet  notwithftanding  this  difadvanuge,  and  the  ezorbit* 
ant  price  of  coals,  owing  to  the  late  heavy  duty  and  freight, 
a  few  of  the  inhabitants  have  mfide  an  effort,  and  bun;i  lim^ 
Wtthfuocels« 

Qj^  Produce f, 

efte^time  it  a^t  the  middlo  of  March;  harveft  ahoat  the  I4»h  of 
Anaofts  hvt  feme  Tcry  rainy  feafons  retard  the  har?eft  to  the  fuccefdio|f 
«wffi»fc«-  In  the  memorable  1782,  the  weather  beisg  very  cold  and  wet,  the 
price  of  meal  rofe  to  |a6a.  (per  boll ;  but,  from  the  very  great  attention  of  go- 
veraacnty  in  frndiog  a  leafisnable  lupply  to  the  poor,  and  the  management  of 
thflfie  to  whom  the  diAribation  was  committed,  together  with  the  charity  an^ 
JxacToksce  of  the  moft  able  and  bcft  difpofcd  in  the  conntryy  the  c<^itioa  ^ 
the  poor  was  rendered  tolerable* 


1 34  Stati/ikal  Account 

Pr^iuce^  \Sc. — The  common  crops  are  btfley,  attft  nm^ 
potatoes.  The  ordinary  returns  are,  of  birlcy,  from  j  to  4f 
bolls  s  of  oats,  from  3  to  4  ;  and  of  potatoes,  from  (S  to  8,  for 
X  boU.  Oats  fell  at  from  13s.  to  15s,  p^r  bo}i;  barley  froia 
X58.  to  17s.  ditto,  Linlithgow  meafure;  and  potatoes  from  %Sm 
to  56.  pet  barrel  of  3  a  Englifii  gallons. 

LaieSf  Rmrs  ond  Fj^-^There  is  6nly  one  eonfideraUe 
lake  in  thefe  parifties,  named  Lachntllj  from  which  pne  of  tnkt 
principal  heritors  takes  his  title.  It  is  2  miles  in  lengtb :  It^ 
greateft  breadth  is  i  mile.  It  Has  its  name  from  the  Gaelie 
Vi^ord  £1/,  fignifying  ayuMi^,  a  great  number  of  thefe  fewl$ 
frequenting  it.  It  is  c)ofely  guarded  by  a  zealous  friend  of 
fhe  family  of  Lochnell.  There  are  other  lakes,  but  Yefy  in« 
^nfiderable.  There  is  only  ope  fmall  river,  which  rtms  about 
5  miles,  and  then  falls  into  an  arm  of  the  Wefiern  Ocean, 
palled  Ldcb'feacban.  The  fifli  in  tliefe  lakes,  and  in  the  above 
inentioned  river,  and  (mailer  brooks,  are  falmon,  trouts  and 
jKels.  The  falmon  are  found  in  confiderable  numbers  ia  tbis 
fmall  river,  but  of  fmall  fize. 

Sta  Cpqfis^  C/f  .-i^The  coaft  is  of  a  femicircular  form ;  and, 
including  creeks  and  bays,  may  be  about  20  miles  in  extent*. 
It  is  in  general  high  and  rocky ;  but,  at  the  end  of  the  bays^ 
flat,  and  fomewhat  fandy.  The  fi(h  caught  on  this  coaft  are 
grey  fiAi  of  different  kinds,  lythe,  fome  cod  and  ling,  Ikate, 
flounders,  &c.  There  are  no  eftablilbed  fifheries  :  They  have 
bfsen  tried,  but  with  little  fuccefs  -,  perhaps  owing  tp  want  o£ 

jpropec 

*  There  ere  ve  .  ^  jiof  oI4  cftftlo,  or  watch  totren,  along  the  coafti  of  diii 
parifli.  It  is  fuppofed  thefe  towen  were  bnih  by  the  Danei.  They  are  buili 
in  rityr  of  poe  another,  that  ;he  alarm  of  an  a|>proacfaiog  enesij  might  be  giT^ 
the  more  readily. 


bJ  Kihnort  and  Kilbride.  11/ 

fcipcr  tackle  and  of  perfeverenoey  Th«  fea  animal^  planta, 
ind  fea^ware,  are  (ha  fame  as  \%  <?ofnatioii  over  all  the  High^ 
Uad  coafts.  {^ittle  kelp  is  made  here :  At  an  average,  not  above 
8  tons  per  annum.    The  tide  ilows  Northward. 

Harbomrs  and  Ferries j  ijc — There  arc  4  good  ones  5  namely, 
ObaUf  Dwi/lqffa0ge  Bay^  Jirdintraive^  oppofite  to  Oban,  in  the 
illaod  of  Kerera,  and  the  Horfsfttoe  Harbour ^  a  little  to  the  weft^ 
ward  of  Ardintraive  \t%  the  fame  ifland.  There  are  3  ferries, 
viz.  ConUFerrj^  between  this  pariQi  and  that  of  Ardchattan  ; 
Fori  Kerera^  between  the  main  land  and  thart  ifland  \  and  the 
MmU  Ferry^  between  the  latter  and  the  Ifland  of  Mull.  There 
ii  a  very  remi^rkable  cuirrent  at  the  Ferry  of  ConiL  From 
the  Semd  of  Moll  enters  an  anq  of  the  fea,  which  xuns  up 
aboot  8  milea  dtie£.  to  Bunrnw^  in  Muekaira,  where  the 
Ji^nn-Fnnnce  CompaiDj  have  their  refidence.  It  then  tume 
(o  the  N.  £•,  through  a  glen  in  Ardchattan  pari(b,  named 
£/iW,  aboot  10  miles.  At  Conil,  where  it  enters  by  a  nar« 
sow  pab,  being  confined  at*  half  flood,  and  half  ebb,  it  ruflies 
through  wiffa  impetiioas  force,  like  a  rapid  river,  over  a 
rock,  which  is  fcen  at  low  ebb,  and  reaches  almoft  from  fide 
to  fide ;  exoepdpg  that,  on  the  Kilmore  fide,  it  has  an  opening 
wide  enough  ibr  veflels  of  confiderable  burden  to  pafs  through. 
The  fiea,  at  half  tides,  pours  furioufly,  and  with  fome  noife^ 
^ver  tliis  rock,  and  forms  a  vafi  variety  of  little  whirlpools, 
rfpecially  on  the  fide  nes^t  t)]e  ocean.  The  ferry  here,  though 
in  appearance  very  fof midable,  is  yet  fafe,  by  reafon  of  the 
^ill  of  the  ferrymen  in  piloting  their  boats  through  it ;  and 
may  be  croflfed  with  fafety,  when  fome  greater,  and  feemingly 
fmootfaer  ferries  cannot. 

Pokanic  jtpp^arances, ^-^there  are  fome  appearances  of  this 
^nd  on  part  of  the  coaft.    There  are  ftones  of  different  fpe« 

ciesy 


\%6  Statifiicai  AeemuiB 

(ies,  ai|d  metali,  (many  of  them  roiind)«  found,  finclf 
^nd  cemented  in  the  fao^  of  the  rocks,  as  if  pkced  hy  9XU 
Pr.  HcjtVKT,  the  Bifliop  oiDcrry^  and  fome  other  natnraliAs^ 
who  were  on  a  tonr  through  this  country  a  few  years  ago* 
aflerted^  that  thefe  appearances  were  certainly  volcanic.  Xhey 
evidently  bear  the  traces  of  having  hcea  in  an  $gneou4  ftate  at 
(bme  dillant  period. 

Eehoei  and  Caves. — There  is  a  very  remarkable  echo,  a  lit* 
de  to  the  N.  W.  of  the  old  Caftle  of  Ounftaffnage,  lying 
near  Conil  Ferry,  2  Englifli  miles  to  the  N«  W.  of  it.  It 
comes  from  an  old  chapel,  where  fome  of  the  ancient  kings 
pf  Scotland  are  faid  to  have  been  buried.  It  is  near  a  rock* 
pn  the  S.  fide  of  it,  one  point  of  which  ftretches  towards  the 
chape).  If  a  man  is  placed  on  the  one  fide  of  the  point,  aocl 
(peaks,  reads,  or  cries  aloud,  the  found  of  his  voice  is  htard 
on  the  other  fide,  fo  diftin^y  reverberated  from  the  chapel, 
fis  to  make  him  imagine  it  conges  from  a  perfon  within  the 
f hapel  *. — Therfi  have  been  many  caves,  but  moft.  of  them 
are  filled  up  by  time.  Urns  have  been  found  in  feveral  of 
them.  The^e  is  a  very  remarkable  one,  in  the  face  of  a  rock 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  Oban,  narrow  at  the  mouth,  and  ex- 
tending to  an  unknown  length  backwards.  A  colle&ion  o^ 
|)uman  bones  and  Ikulls  ftill  remain  in  it  f « 

*  It  is  affirmed,  that  at  fome  former  period,  a  man  contraded  an  ilbefi^ 
which  terminated  in  death,  by  hearing  a  Ceimoo  on  mortality  read  to  him  by 
(VI  alarming  voice,  in  the  duik  of  the  evening,  from  the  oppofite  fide  of  the 
|)oint,  by  a  perfon  wl^o  concealed  himf<:lf.  He  believed  t!^  wddrdk  camq 
from  one  of  the  dead  in  the  chapel.    It  warned  him  to  prepare  for  death. 

f  The  account  given  of  this  coUedion  is  this,  as  related  to  the  author  of  this 
article,  by  an  old  perfon  iliU  living  in  the  nei^bourhood  :  Abottt  100  years 
»go,  a  relation  of  this  petfon,  having  taken  Ibme  umbrage  at  bis  grandfather, 
}et  his  boufe»  with  the  purpofe  of  revenge.    He  went  to  Irdaadi  and,  fome 


of  Kilmrc  and  Kilbride.  iij 

RoaJsf  BrUges^  l^r— ^There  is  one  great  line  of  toad  finifli^ 
^  from  Gonil  Ferrj  to  the  extremity  of  the  pariih,  on  thd 
S.,  about  6  miles  in  length  ;  another  from  Obaii  to  Kilmore 
Kirk,  acrofs  the  middle  of  the  parifli  eaftward^  libout  4  miles 
in  length  ;  and  a  third  from  Oban  to  Conil,  running  alfoeaft* 
ward.  It  is  now  the  common  road  for  carriages,  &c«  from 
Oban  to  Ihrerarajr«-^Btidges  are  thrown  orer  wherevef  thej 
are  neccflaiy.  Thefe  roads  have  all  been  made  during  the  in« 
cnmbencj  of  the  prefent  minifter,  within  thefe  laft  33  years* 
There  are  4  principal  inns,  vit»  at  Oban,  Conil,  Glaghchom- 
ble*,  and  Kilmore^  nigh  the  kirk,  befides  feveral  fmaller 
ones.   There  is  tather  too  much  whilky  drunk  in  all  of  them* 

Black  CdtiU  and  Hor/es^^The  breed  of  black  cattle  in  this 
parifli  as  of  the  beft  Weft  Highland  kind.  They  are  a  good 
deal  larger  than  thofe  iii  the  North  Highlands,  and  are  much 
approved  of  at  market*— Such  as  are  bred  by  gentlemen  of 
property,  bring  from  41.  los.  to  51.  los.  a  head;  and  fome 
have  been  fold  at  61.  and  upwards.     The  cattle  bred  by  th6 

tenantry, 

fCMnahtTf  retimed  with  a  banditti  df  mifcreanti,  with  whom  he  conifurcd  to 
let  ire  to  the  ^tlaj^  Dear  Oban,  in  which  hit  grandfather  dwelt.  On  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  veiTely  which  brought  them  before  Oban,  the  inhabitants  received 
intelligence  of  their  intentions,  and  likewife  of  the  crew  being  infcded  with 
the  pcftilerioe ;  on  which  the  inhabiunts  coUeded  a  ihperior  force,  watched  their 
landing,  afprcbcnded  them,  and  (hut  them  up  within  the  cave,  where,  by  thfe 
hsiBattiCf  of  the  young  nan's  grandfather,  they  were  (though  dofely  guarded)* 
fed  for  £om€  time,  till  they  all  died  of  the  diieafe  which  they  brought  to  land 
with  diem^^A  man,  who  died  lately,  ooce  vifited  this  cave  in  his  younger  years, 
m  the  hopes  of  finding  a  treaiure  in  it ;  but  found  ohly  a  gold  headed  cane,  and 
a  hrgi  filvcr  broach;  Thefe,  however,  he  afterwards  returned,  being  bmrnted* 
u  he  believed,  by  fpfHru^  tiU  he  had  done  fo.  The  ftory  has  a  fuperilitious 
ifpe^,  btic  is  eifily  accomited  for,  by  the  force  of  imagination. 

*  CUl^chombie  iHn  la  fituated  where  the  roads  from  Oban  to  Inverary,  and 
Irem  Cootl  to  Nether  JLorn-crofs,  nwet.  It  is  not  far  from  KUmore,  and  w^s 
an  the  cooumii  canbge  n»d  to  Obas,  till  of  hte,  that  iha  kwer  one  was  finiihed 


120  Stati/iical  Account 

fenantrfy  er  lower  dafs  of  people,  are  fold  from  3!.  5s.  id 
3I*  IDS.  at  pr^fcnt*.  The  horfes  are  ftroager  than  thofe  vA 
the  North  Highlands.  They  art  exceedingly  hardy  and  fit  fof 
every  kind  of  labour.  Their  iojt  ie  from  X  a  to  14  himds  high  ; 
and  they  are  ilrongly  made. 

Sbtp  and  5'u>i«#.— -«Sbeep  flocks  are  but  lately  introduced 
here.  Hitherto  they  hare  anfwered  very  well.  Tbey  are  of 
the  black  faced  kind,  bred  in  Aonandale,  and  the  high  grounds 
about  Moffat.  As  they  increafe  in  numbers,  they  contribute' 
much  to  wear  off  the  heath ;  infomuch^  that  feveral  bills, 
covered  with  it  about  50  years  ago,  have  now  got  a  beautifsl 
furface  of  grafs  \  although,  alas  !  at  the  elfpence  of  reducing 
the  number  of  the  poor  fanners  ;  many  of  the  villages  being 
quite  depopulated.  A  fewperfoos  rear  fwine^  in  fmali  nuoi^ 
hers  $  but  they  are  not  of  a  good  quality^ 

Wild  ^uadnipedj.^^<^zArTtptds  of  the  wild  kind,  here,  are 
foch  .as  are  common  in  moil  parts  of  the  Highlands  of  Scotland  > 
a  few  roes,  many  hares,  of  the  largeft  6ze,  wild  cats,  and  a 
few  badgers  and  otters,  which  are  numerous.  The  foxes  are 
nearly  extirpated.  There  are  many  pole-cats,  and  beautiful 
weafels,  befides  rats,  mice,  and  moles. 

JSirdi.'^TheTc  are  mpor-fowls,  black  and  ted  ^  hot  not  in  fuch 
numbers  as  formerly,  owing  to  burning  the  heath,, and  the  in-' 
crcafe  of  the  flicrp.  There  are  a]fo  plovers,  wild  pigeons,  crows,- 
and  i*ooks  ;  the  latter  are  become  fo  numerous,  as  to  be  very 
dtrftruflive  to  the  grain  and  potatoes.  Of  the  migratory  kind, 
we  have  wood-cocks^  f wallows,  fnipes,  a  few  green  plovers, 

and 

*  Beef,  from  3d.  to  4d.  per  lt>.;  niuttod,  4d.  to  jd.;  veil,  ji;  Umb,  5d.to' 
6d.;  pork,  ^d.;  a  gooTe  2s.  6U.',  dack  2».;  k«at  from  6d«  to  8d.;>cgg«,  ad* 
per  doieo. 

a 


of  Kilmore  and  Kilbride. .,  120 

kad  nickoos;  of  the  fmaller  birds  filch  as  are  cottitiiQil  through 
Scotland.  We  have  alfo  water  fowls  of  various  kinds:  There 
is  one  kind  of  duck,  of  the  migratorj  tribe,  called  the  widgeon* 
They  abound  much  in  our  bajs»  Thej  appear  abojut  the  be* 
ginning  of  winter>  and  migrate  about  the  end  of  fpiing*  If 
the  end  of  autumn  is  felrere  and  (lormji  they  appear  forne- 
times  before  winter* 

Rents  and  Heritor^. — The  valued  rent,  ad  dated  irt  1751^ 
was  .3891.  xos.  4d.:  the  real  rent  may  be  at  prefertt  about 
3180I,  There  are  13  heritors,  great  aiid  fmall,  in  the  pariOi^ 
of  whom  only  4  refide;  Services  are  in  a  good  itteafute  abo« 
lilhed ;  but  tod  many  fiill  remain. 

EccUJtaJiical  State.-^Tlit  chilrch  of  Kiloiore  iffis  built 
about  300  years  ago*  It  was  originally  in  the  form  of  a  ca« 
thedral,  and  continued  fo  during  the  eflabli(hmeht  of  Epifco-^ 
pacy  in  Scotland  ;  but,  on  the  introdudion  of  Prefbytery,  aa 
the  old  building  became  decayed,  a  part  of  it  was  repaired^ 
and  reduced  to  the  fize  of  an  ordinary  large  kirk,  about  60 
feet  loog^  and  20  broad.— ^The  kirk  of  Kilbride  is  of  a  leflet 
fize,  40  feet  in  length,,  and  16  in  breadth.  Tlie  walls  of  KiU 
more  church  are  very  fufEcient :  The  roof  and  windows  have 
received  repairs  at  different  tiroes.  It  id  poorly  fcslted  i  but 
there  is  reafon  to  think,  that  the  heritors  will  foon  make  up 
this  defed.  The  kirk  of  Kilbride  is  not  fo  fufficient  in  thd 
walls,  as  that  of  Kilmore  ;  and  the  feats  are  equally  bad.  It 
fiands  greatly  in  need  of  repairs.  Neither  of  them  have 
church*yards  ;  but  it  is  propofed  to  have  them  foon.  Indeed^  a 
few  excepted,  the  kirks  in  the  Weft  Highlands  are  in  a  mifer** 
2ble  condition,  compared  with  thofe  in  many  other  country 
parilbes  in  Scotland.  But,  as  improvements  of  all  kinds  ar# 
every  where  going  on  rapidly,  we  hope  the  churches,  in  this 

YoL.  XL  R  part 


i  ^o  Statijilcal  Account 

part  of  the  country,  will  foon  come  in  for  their  fhare. — The 
xnanfe  was  bnilt  in  1760 ;  but  it  is  very  flight  and  infufficieattf 
\i  underwent  ferae  repairs  not  long  ago  ;  bat  it  can  never  be 
made  a  good  hotrfe.  The  fiipend,  on  the  admiffion  of  the 
prefent  incumbent,  tras  ftated  to  him  at  60  bolls  and  a 
pecks  of  oatmeal,  (9  (tones  per  boll),  and  39I.  7s.  9|d.  Scer- 
iing  in  money.  The  meal,  at  the  old  convcrfion  of  lool. 
Scotch  per  chalder,  with  the  money,  after  deducing  5I.  Ster- 
ling for  communion  elements  included  therein,  reduces  the 
fttpehd  to  65K  1 2s.  9{d.,  together  whh  a  competent  glebe.— 
The  Duke  of  Argyll  is  patron. — The  whole  pariih  obferve 
the  rites  of  the  £ftabli(hed  Church,  excepting  a  or  3  families, 
who  are  of  the  Epifcopal  perfuafionf.  There  b  only  a  fingle 
family  of  the  SeceiBon* 

Schools, — ^There  is  oiie  paroehial  fchool  kept  at  Kilmore. 
There  is  no  (chool-houfe ;  but  it  is  propofed  to  build  one  foon. 
The  dated  falary  is  lol.  Sterling,  with  the  inter^ft  of  icoo 
snerks  Scotch  :  But  this  laft  fum  is  onr  a  precarious  footing, 
there  being  r^afbn  to  apprehend,  that  the  intereft  will  be  re- 
duced. The  number  of  fcholars  is  (hifluating;  in  winter  and 
fpring  fiom  30  to  46,  feldom  50.  The  iituatibn  is  very  cen- 
trical for  a  numerous  fch6ol ;  and  there  have  been  at  different 
{Periods  very  flourifliing  fchools  at  thid  ftation.  But,  owing 
to  the  reduftion  6f  part  of  the  funds  which  made  up  the  (a- 
Ury,  the  want  of  proper  boscrding  places,  and  the  (hort  con- 
tinuance of  feveral  of  the  teachers,  the  fchool,  fbr  (bme  years 
tack,  has  greatly  declined.  The  quarterly  payments  for 
teaching,  are,  Englifh^  is. ;  ditto  and  writing,  is.  6dL. ;  arith- 
iRetic,  2s.  6d. ;  Latin,  2s.  6d.  There  is  a  flourifliing  fchool 
at  Oban,  which  will  be  noticed  afterwards.  There  is  one 
charity  fchool  in  the  ifland  of  Kctenii  and  one  or  more  {imaller 
4  fchools^ 


^f  Kilmore  and  Kilbride.  131 

fchoolsy  kept  up  at  the  expence  pf  the  inhabitants,  in  the  re« 
inote  parts  of  the  parifli. 

Poor. — The  poor  are  fupported  chiefly  by  the  inhabitants 
of  the  parifh.  They  beg  from  door  to  door  ;  but  are  np( 
very  troublefome  in  this  way,  although  the  funds  are  by  no 
means  adequate  to  their  number^  and  wants :  The  whole 
amount,  for  many  year$,  was  from  ill.  to-  14L,  arifing  from 
the  weekly  coUe£tions,  and  from  a  f/nall  mortification  or  two. 
But  of  late  32I.  2s.  3id.  was  added  by  the  commiflioners  of 
the  cuftoms,  30I.  of  which  is  laid  out  at  intered,  and  the  odd 
money  (zl.  is.  3^^.)  was  diftributed.  among  the  poor,  at  the 
time  when  the  ordsr  was  given  by  the  commiilioners. 

Population, — ^The  number  of  inhabitants  has  greatly  in- 
creafcd  within  the  lad  50  years:  For,notwith(landing  that  many 
farms  have  been  turned  into  grazings,  yet  fuch  is  the  fpirit  of 
improvement,  in  making  roads,  inclofures  by  fione  walls 
and  ditches,  building  houfes,  &c.  that  the  population,  iuflead 
of  diminiihing,  has  increafed  above  a  third  within  that  period* 

It  is  difficult,  however,  to  afcertain  tfaeexad  number  of  the 
inhabitants  of  both  thefe  pariflies,  as  they  »re  in  a  very  fluc- 
tuating (late,  by  many  annually  going  to  the  Low  Country, 
and  from  one  part  of  this  country  to  another ;  but  from  tb^ 
two  laft  years  lifts*,  there  appeared  to  be,  at  an  average,  of 
inhabitants,  of  all  ages, 

Kxamm.  perfitu.  Stulu 

\n  179^  in  Kilmore,  about         r  -  yjQ 

In  1791,  in  Kilbride,  about         -         -         500  0O9 

In  1792,  in  Ob&n,        ^        -        -      -      440  386. 

In  all,     •    940  2886 

Ra  In 

*  Tlw  diiferentt  between  this  and  laft  year's  acconn^  (Osan  es^ted)  h 
Tfry  tsc;.flfiderablc. 


I3« 


Statifllcal  Accouni 


In  17559  the  total  number,  as  returned  to  Dr.  Webr 

ftcr,  was  only        -         -        -        -        •        -        2  aoo 

Increafc,         -         t\i6 

Acconnt  of  Baptisms  and  Marrxagf.s^  from  ift  Jj^nuary  1784 
to  zft  January  17911  in  both  parilhes*. 


Ttan, 

B^^ifmi. 

Jlifarruigtt4 

I7t4f 

• 

• 

SI 

173i. 

- 

« 

'•      45 

X786, 

- 

- 

-        46 

1787, 

- 

- 

43 

1788, 

- 

- 

•        46 

1789, 

- 

- 

53 

X79». 

- 

- 

•        i* 

3f79i. 

- 

• 

59 

ManufaElures.'^OLt  late  a  fmall  branch  of  the  cotton  ma- 
nufadlure  vras  introduced  into  this  quarter,  by  Mr.  David. 
Dale  of  Qlafgow  \  but  its  progrefs  has  hitherto  been  greatly 
retarded  by  the  dearth  of  fuel.  That  caufe  being  now  re->. 
inoved,  other  gentletnen  of  enterprife  and  public  fpirit  have  i( 
in  contemplation^  to  eftablifh  works  of  the  fame  kind. 

.  Village  of  Oban. — ^This  village  is  fituattd  on  the  N.  W. 
fide  of  the  pariih,  and  covered  from  the  Weflern  Ocean  by  the 
Ifland  of  K£R£RA.  It  has  two  entries,  one  from  the  S.,  and 
one  from  the  N.  The  firft  houfe  of  any  confequence  in  Oban 
was  built  about  8o*jears  ago,  by  a  trading  company  of  Ren. 
frew.  They  ufed  the  houfe  as  a  (lore-room  ;  Oban  being 
confidered,  even  then,  as  one  of  the  moft  convenient  fituations 

in 


*  The  above  lifts  txt  taken  from  Odober  to  OAober,  according  to  the  tax 
regulation  eftabliihed  by  goveroment.— There  is  no  lift  of  buriali  kept  in  thia 
panih. 


of  Ktlmore  and  Kil^idt.  1 33 

in  this  country  for  trade.  The  next  building  was  a  cuftom* 
faoufcy  which  was  e^eded  28  years  ago ;  Oban  being  reckoned 
a  proper  plice  <or  clear,  .g  out  vcflels  for  the  herring  fiQiery. 
It  was  foon  aTter  made  the  place  of  general  rendezvous  foe 
the  herring  boffes  ;  and  for  many  years,  they  reforted  to  it  ill 
great  numbers,  till  other  places  of  the  fame  kind  were  ap** 
pointed.  About  the  year  1778,  the  fpirit  of  building  arofe 
in  this  village,  and  has  been  gradually  increafihg  till  the  pr»« 
fent  time.  It  was  on  that  fide  of  Oban  which  belongs  to  the 
Duke  of  Argyll,  that  thefc  buildings  were  firft  erefted.  But 
now,  Mr.  Gampb£LL  of  Diunjlaffnage  has  feued  put  part  of  his 
property,  for  the  fame  purpofe,  on  the  other  fide ;  and  the 
deiiand  for  new  lots  daily  increafes.  Behind  the  village^  there 
is  a  fliallow  lake  of  fome  extent,  with  iloping  ba^ks,  which 
are  cultivated  for  hay,  corn,  and  garden  (luffs.  The  lake 
might,  at  fome  expence,  be  drained.  There  i<s  alfo  a  water 
that  runs  from  it,  into  the  fea,  and  divides  the  Dake  of  Ar- 
gyll's farm  iiom  Duiiftafihage's  lands. 

Bay  and  Siipping >--^The  Bay  of  Oban  is  of  a  femicircular 
form,  and  from  x 2  to  24  fathom  deep.  It  is  large  enough  to 
contain  500  (ail  of  merchantmen.  The  anchorage  is  every 
where  good.  About  20  years  ago,  there  were  from  20  to 
30  vefiels  reglflered  aX  Oban,  which  were  chilly  employed  in 
the  fiOieries ;  but,  frqm  the  decreafc  of  that  trade  on  the 
N.  W.  coaft,  the  number  of  veiTels  is  now  much  fmaller. 
Still,  however,  there  are  from  15  to  20  floops  employed  in 
the  fifhiog  and  coafting  bufinefs  ;  and  one  veficl,  from  250  to 
330  tons,  is  employed  in  the  Baltic  trade.  But  the  traders, 
and  inhabitants  in  general,  labour  under  great  inconvenience 
for  want  of  z  proper  quay  to  difcharge  their  goods.  It  is 
hoped  this  defeft  will  foon  be  fupplied. 

Church 


1 34  Statijiical  Account 

Church  propofed. — ^It  is  intended  to  build  a  cliapel  of  eafe  19 
Oban«  as  the  number  of  the  inhabiunts  are  rapidly  increafiag. 
snfomuchy  that  none  of  the  parifh  churches  can  contain  theau 
The  building  will  be  begun,  as  foon  as  proper  funds  are  col- 
lefied  {for  that  purpofe,  and  for  affording  a  competent  falarjr 
10  the  preacher. 

School. — ^There  is  a  very  good  fchpol-hoofe.  It  was  bijilt 
by  the  Duke  of  Argyll,  ai.d  the  inhabitants ;  who  make  up 
a  (alary, to  the  fchoolmafier  of  20I.  a  year.  His  other  emou 
luments  are  coniiderable.  The  number  of  (cholars,  is  at  a]| 
average,  from  40  t^  ^o  through  the  year. 

JPopulation  of  OJ^,— The  tptal  number  of  families  in 

Oban,  is---r---  -m 

The  number  of  fgnl^'  (^s  above  noticed),  is         *         -     jSC 

Of  the  different  profefllon?,  there  are  in  this  village, 

CIcrki,        .         -         -        .  7  Baker,        -  .         .  .         ^ 

8!aters,        -        .        •         .  5  Currier,        .  -        -  .      j 

I^abourert,        -          •          ^  ^4  Tanpcrt,        •  -        .  •        ^ 

SawerB,        -        -         -        -  7  Sailors,        •  .        •  •       x^ 

Cooper*,        ....  3  Joincrt,        .  •        •  .       j^ 

Weavers,        •        -        -        -  X7  Smiths,        -  •        •  •       xa 

Fainter,         .        -        -        -  t  Shoemakers,  -        -  -         25 

Tailors,        -        -        -        -  9  Merchants,  *          ,  .        ^ 

Carpenters,        •         -        -  xa  ■  . 

Mafons,        ....  3  Xfital,  -    4x73 

Barber,         -        ,        .        •  j 

Improvement 

\  BcCdes  thcfe,  there  are  a  good  many  other  tradcfmeB  fcattered  over  the 
ptfifh— Men  iervams  get  from  3I.  to  61.  per  annum ;->women,  from  al.  to 
dL  xos. ;— day  labourers,  from  lod.  to  r4d.  per  day  ;-^raalbiif,  ss. ;— wrigbts, 
^om  IS.  ad.  to  is.  8d.;— tailors,  8d.,  with  maiotenancc  But  tailors,  flioemaken, 
weavers,  &c.  whtn  working  by  the  piece,  earn,  at  an  average,  from  i6d.  to  x8d. 
per  day ;  Ibip  carpenters,  as,  j  axid  houic  ditto,  (rom  ^u  U.  Xo  !•.  I«^ 


"^ of  Kilmore  and  Kilbride.  13^ 

tmprtfo^meht  of  the  Vittage. — This  village  arofe  from  a  ver/ 
final]  beginning.  Till  the  cuftom-houfe  was  built,  it  confid- 
ed of  onlj  2  or  3  houfes  of  meaq  appearance.  But  after  the 
coftom-houfe  was  ereded,  and  fome  trade  began  to  arife,  from 
the  oonrenient  fituation  of  the  bay,  Ijing  near  the  Weftem 
Ocean,  and  in  the  vicinitjr  of  a  populous  country,  the  at- 
tention of  the  Duke  of  Argyll,  Mr.  Campbell  of  Dunftafi^ 
n^ge,  and  fome  other  perfons  particularly  interfefted  in  the 
profpcrity  of  the  village,  was  attrafted.  They  feued  grounds 
for  buildiiig  t6  a  very  confiderable  extent  ;  and  a  great  addi- 
tion of  buildings  is  to  be  made  this  year.  If  encouragement 
is  given  to  the  trade  of  the  place^  by  erefting  a  quay,  it  will 
go  on  to  increafe  to  a  very  great  height.-^ We  cannot  omit 
mentioning  here,  with  all  due  refpeft,  two  gentlemen,  bro« 
tbers,  of  the  name  of  SrEVENSON,  who  have  oontributed  very 
much  by  their  induftry  and  afiivity,  to  the  improvement  and 
profperity  of  Oban.  They  came  to  the  place  in  1778,  in  the 
line^  of  plain  tradefmcn ;  and,  by  their  genius  and  ability^ 
difplayed  in  various  branches  of  trafiic,  they  have  greatly  im- 
proved their  own  fortunes,  while  they  have  at  the  fame  time 
promoted  the  good  of  the  country  at  large  :  Oban,  in  parti- 
cular, may  look  on  them  as  its  founders ;  for  the  elder  bro- 
ther commenced,  and  fucceflively  keeps  up  the  bufinefs  of 
iliip-building  ;  a  branch  never  attempted  to  any  extent  before 
in  this  country.  And  the  younger  brother  employs  alfo 
aaany  artificers  in  houfe-buildiog.  In  a  word,  ObaB>  and  its 
tovirons  are  Angularly  indebted  to  them. 

CharaSer  of  the  Pro^Zf.— The  change  in  the  circumflances^ 
tlie  appearance,  and  the  morals  of  the  people  of  the  lower 
clafs,  in  this  parifii,  has  been  confiderable,  fince  the  prefent 
incumbent*!  admifiion.  In  refpeft  of  the  firft,  three  fmall 
tillages^  of  tolctable  black  farm*houfc8,  were  almoft  wholly 

docked 


i  3$  Statijiical  Accoiini 

fiockcd  with  inhabitants,  confiding  of  tenants  and  cottagers. 
The  rents  being  then  verj  moderate,  the  people  lived  com* 
fortablj  in  their  line,  though  on  fimple  farfc,  and  in  homelj 
clothing.  But|  fince  that  period,  the  rents  have  been  doubkdi 
najr,  in  fome  parts  tripled  ;  and  noany  of  their  pofleiEons  have 
been  taken  by  the  more  opulent :  The  lower  tenants  were,  of 
coarfe,  obliged  to  remove  and  ihift  for  themfelves.  The  aged, 
the  feeble,  and  the  poorer  fort,  became  cottagers  \  bat  the 
mod  vigorous,  and  bj  far  the  greateft  number,  engaging  in 
the  public  works,  which  were  carrying  on  over  the  country 
to  a  very  great  extent,  found  means  to  fubfiU  more  comfort* 
ably.  This  circumftance  afforded  them  a  very  providential 
relief,  and  tended  to  prevent  their  being  infefted  by  the  pre- 
vailing fpirit  of  emigration.  As  to  their  appearance^  if  we 
were  to  judge  from  the  change  in  their  drefs  and  manner  of 
livingi  (particularly  of  the  workpien  and  fervants),  more 
cfpecially  of  the  younger  fort,  many  of  them  have  arrived  at 
fuch  a  pitch  of  gaiety  in  the  one,  and  of  expence  in  the  other, 
that  their  circumftances  would  appear  to  be  much  improved : 
But  there  is  reafon  to  believe,  the  change  is  mote  to  be  a- 
fcribed  to  their  advance  in  luxury,  than  in  opulence.  It  de« 
ierves,  however,  to  be  remarked,  that  the  old  tenants  have 
hardly  made  any  alteration  in  their  manner  of  living.  1  he 
cxcurfions  made  to  the  Low  Country,  by  the  labourers  and 
fervants,  may  account,  in  a  good  meafute,  for  theit  advance- 
xncnt  in  luxury,  in  drefs  and  living.  Thefe  excurfions  have 
alfo  made  a  confiderable  change  on  their  languagt^,  and  on 
their  demand  for  wages,  perhaps  little  to  iheir  own  advan- 
tage, and  certainly  not  to  that  of  their  country.  The  harj- 
ihip  is  particularly  fcrit  from  the  demands  of  houiV  hold  fer- 
vants, whofe  high  wages  have  become  an  iiitolerabie  griev- 
ance. On  account  of  their  frequent  inteicourfc  with  the  Lovr 
Country,  they  very  foon  learn  the  Engliih  language,  info- 

znucfa 


of  Ki  Into  re  and  Kilbride.  137 

much  that  mod  of  them  can  fpeak  it  tolerablj.  ^  But  it  is  to 
be  regretted,  that  thej  adulterate  their  native  forcible  lan- 
guage with  Anglicifms,  which  produce  a  difagreeable  medley. 

J(fora/f--*The  people  of  this  pari(h  have  been,  fince  the 
pre&nt  incumbent's  admiffion,  as  regular,  on  the  whole,  as 
any  on  the  Weftern  Coaft.  Indeed,  he  has  obferved,  that, 
not  only  within  his  own  parifli,  but  within  the  bounds  of  the 
pre&j^ery  in  general,  there  has  been,  fince  his  firft  acquaint- 
ance with  them,  a  very  remarkable  change  to  the  better,  in 
one  Tery  important  part  of  duty,  namely,  in  their  attendance 
on,  and  decent  behaviour  at  public  worihip,  and  at  all  religious 
ordinances.  Moft  of  them  are  likewife  docile  and  food  of  in- 
ftmftion :  And  few  people  are  lefi^  fubjeft  to  religious  divi- 
fions.  A  tinfture  of  enthufiafm  indeed,  never  before  known, 
began  of  late  years,  to  infeft  a  certain  corner  within  the 
bounds  of  this  preibytery,  and  to  fpread  its  baneful  influence 
among  a  few  individuals  in  the  adjacent  pariih;  but,  by  every 
appearance,  if  is  now  on  the  decline.  The  inhabitants,  in 
general,  are  rational  in  their  religion  ;  fober,  with  a  very  few 
exceptions ;  laborious  and  induftrious :  The  gentlemen  are 
well.bred,  polite,  difcreet  and  hofpitable. 


Vol.  XI.  S  NUM- 


t^$  Statiftical  Account 


N  U  M  B  E  R    IX;       ^ 


PARISH    OF    GARTLY 

(fiounty  qf  BariffL^PreJbytery  of  Strutlbogie — Synod  o^ 
Moray.)     \ 


Bf  the  Rev.  Mr.  James  Scott,  Minifter. 


Form  and  Extent. 


THE  parKh  of  Gartly  is  of  an  oval  form,  though  not 
very  regular.  It  is  about  i^  Engliih  miles  in  length, 
from  E.  to  W. ;  and  6  in  breadth,  from  S.  to  N.,  about  th» 
middle. 

River  and  Ftjb. — It  is  divided  nearly  in  the  centre,  by  tli« 
rivulet  Bogie  ;  which,  running  in  a  ferpentine  form,  alfo  di- 
vides the  counties  of  Banff  and  Aberdeen,  as  it  falls  to  the 
N.,  and  forms  a  very  pleafant  flrath,  from  which  this  county 
derives  its  name,  Strathbogie.  Its  banks  are  moflly  covered 
with  aller ;  and  it  abounds  with  excellent  yellow  trouts,  and 
falmon  in  the  fpawning  feafon. 

Surface  and  5of7,  %ic. — ^The  boundaries  of  this  pariib,  both  on 

the 


of  Gartly.  139 

Ae  £•  and  W.  fides^  are  hiUjr,  and  moftl/  covered  with  heath* 
In  thefe  hills  there  is  pleoty  of  mofs,  which  not  onlj  fupplies 
the  inhabitants  of  the  parifli,  but  alfo  the  town  of  Huntly^ 
With  fiiel.  From  thefe  hills  feveral  fmall  brooks  fall  into  the 
Bogie.  The  vallies,  fupplied  bj  thefe  brooks,  are  very  fer-i 
tile,  as  well  as  the  lands  on  the  different  fides  of  the  Bogie^ 
when  properlj  cultivated,  though  in  general  rather  late. 

Cultivation  and  Produce^-^The  cultivation  of  the  foil  haa 
been  annually  more  and  more  attended  to,  fince  the  year  1770 
At  that  time  there  were  only  two  gentlemen  farmers,  (both 
of  whom  had  been  in  the  army)^  who  had  a  field  in  turnips 
or  fown  grafs ;  whereas  now  there  is  not  one,  who  has  not 
more  or  leis  of  his  farm  under  thefe  crops.  One  of  thef# 
gentleman,  who  firfi  fet  the  example,  and  who  is  ftill  refident 
in  the  pari(h,  is  now  carrying  his  improvements  ftill  farther, 
by  introducing  horfe-hoeing ;  whereby  he  raifes  moft  lux- 
uriant crops  of  cabbages  and  turnips.  The  crops  are,  bear, 
6ats,  peafe,  and  potatoes;  arid  the  returns  from  thefe  do  much 
more  than  fupply  the  wants  of  the  padfh. 

Catile, — ^The  lands  are  now  moftly  tilled  with  horfes, 
which  are  of  different  fizes,  fitted  for  the  different  ways  they 
are  employed ;  and  are  in  number  above  340*  The  black 
cattle  here  are  generally  fmalU  but  of  a  very  tight  Highland 
breed,  and  about  1,500  in  number.  The  fheep  are  alfo  of 
St  fionall  kind,  and  in  number  betwixt  4,000  and  5,000. 

Minerals ."^ThtTt  is  a  lime  quarry  in  the  parifli,  but  fo  deep, 
and  expenfive  to  work,  that  the  farmers,  rather  than  dig  ftone 
from  it,  choofe  to  bring  their  lime  from  the  diftance  of  4  or 
5  miles*     There  is  alfo  a  Very  fine  flate  quarry  in  the  pariih. 

Sa  The 


140  Statifiicai  Account 

The  flates  found  in  it  are  of  a  dark  blue  coloar,  aad  very 
durable  and  light. 

Propriety  and  /{#«/•— The  Duke  of  Gordon  is  fole  pro- 
prietor of  the  pariih.  The  yearly  rent  is  about  1,600!.  Ster- 
ling $  and  the  valued  rent  a,o8oU  Scotch. 

Population. — The  number  of  inhabitantSi  about  xo  years 
agOy  was  greater  than  it  is  at  prefent.  This  decrcafe  can  only  ^ 
be  imputed  to  the  principal  tenants  extending  their  farms, 
and  removing  their  cottagers.  Within  thefe  40  years^  how- 
ever,  it  has  increafed  coofiderably,  as  appears  from  the  fol- 
lowing table : 

Population  Table  of  the  Fariih  of  Gartlt. 

Nambcr  of  fouls  in  z  ^tl^    -     aoco  Annual  arerage  for  the  laft  10  yean. 

Ditto  in  X793,         -         -        1800  Of  birthsi         .         .         •        tz 

— ^  —  oaarriagesy        -        -        -        6 

Decreafe  in  zo  yeart,     -     aoo  -»  biuiaU  *•        -        *        -       14 

Nambcr  of  fouls  in  z  755,     -     xjaS 

—  *  Several  of  thefe  are  from  other 

Increafe  in  38  years,      -      47ft        parilhes* 

Wages. — Day  labourers,  in  winter,  get  6d«  per  day  \  in 
fummer,  8d. ;  in  autumn,  is«,  with  their  viftuals.  Men  fer- 
yants  receive,  per  annum,  from  61.  to  7L  Sterling :  Women 
fervants,  by  the  year,  from  ah  los.  .to  3].,  and  herds  in  pro- 
portion. Country  wrights,  that  go  from  houfe  to  houfe,  get 
6d.  per  day  in  winter,  and  8d.  in  fummer,  with  their  victuals. 
Tailors  receive  6d.,  belides  their  maintenance. 

Cburcb  and  School, — The  kirk  was  built  in  the  year  1621, 
and  was  lately  repaired  very  fubftantially.    A  new  manfe  was 

7  built 


of  Gartly.  141 

bailt  in  the  year  1756:  Both  it  and  the  fchool*houre  are  in 
good  repain  The  ftipend  is  not  quite  6eL  Sterling.  The 
Duke  of  Gordon  is  patron. 

Poor*— The  poor's  funds  are  from  about  150I.  to  200I. 
The  number  of  poor  on  the  roll  is  from  aq  to  23  \  among 
whom  are  divided  from  141.  to  271.  annually,  arifing  from 
the  coUeftions,  intereft  on  the  funds,  mortcloth,  &c. ;  befides 
occafional  fnpplies  to  fome  neceffitous  perfons  not  on  the  roll. 

Lifeafes  and  Cbara&er^  lie. — ^It  cannot  be  faid,  there  is  any 
dlfeafe  peculiar  to  this  parifh ;  but  feverat  of  its  inhabitants 
are  affeded  with  fcrofiilous  and  gravelliih  complaints*— 
Thej  are,  in  general,  indufirious,  orderly,  and  well  affeded 
to  government.— -There  are  two  licenfed  diftillers  in  the 
parilu 

NUMBER 


*  loiliocet  of  longevity  are  not  uncommoii.  A  fanner,  named  John  Fii- 
iitA,  died  at  Kirkney,  in  this  parilk,  in  the  year  Z7S8,  aged  I02.  The  only 
utiquity  in  the  pariih  it  an  old  ruin,  called  the  Plast  •/  GmtHj. 


,142  Statiftical  Account 


NUMBER    X. 

tARlSH   OF  KILWINNING. 

(County  0/  jfyr — PnJbyUry  of  Lrvim^^ynod  of  Glafgow 

and  Ayr. 

By  the  Rev.  Mr 4  Thomas  Pollock. 


Ori^n  of  the  Name, 


THE  Kelxdees,  or  Culdees,  are  fuppofed  to  have  been 
originally  Chriftian  Britons ;  and,  about  the  latter  end 
of  the  third  century,  to  have  fled  into  this  country,  to  avoid 
the  barbarous  and  inhuman  cruelties,  inflxded  upon  the  Chrif- 
dans,  during  the  perfecution  under  Dioctefan  the  Roman  Em- 
peror. They  were  faid  to  have  been  diilinguiihed  for  their 
great  learning,  extraordinary  piety,  exemplary  decency  and 
purity  of  life  and  manners ;  and,  as  minifters  of  religion, 
being  unwearied  in  the  faithful  difcharge  of  their  duty,  they 
were  univerfally  held  in  the  higheft  efteem  and  veneration. 
From  their  retired  and  folitary  way  of  living,  their  ufual 
places  of  refidence  were  called  cells  ;  and,  after  their  deaths, 
were  turned  either  into  pariih  churches,  or  monafteries.  Thefe 
religious  houfcs  were  often  dedicated  to  the  memory,  and 

bore 


of  Kilwinning.  143 

bore  the  name  of  the  Keledee,  who  had  been  borni  or  educated, 
or  buried  in,  or  near  fuch  places.  From  Cella  Winnini^  there- 
fore, it  is  highly  probable  this  pariih  takes  its  name.  There 
is  a  welU  ait  no  great  diflance  from  the  manfe,  called  Winning*s 
Will;  and  a  fair,  held  annually,  on  the  firft  day  of  February, 
is  called  Winning^ s^day  Fair,  Not  many  years  after  the  erec- 
tion of  the  monaftery,  Kilwinning,  all  over  this  part  of  the 
country,  was  called  Saig-town  ;  and,  by  this  name,  it  is  dill 
Tery  well  know  to  the  inhabitants.  Saig^town  is  evidently  a 
corraption  of  Saints^town.  From  the  mortified  and  contemp- 
lative lives  of  the  monks,  from  the  frequency  of  their  devo- 
tions, and  other  religious  ezercifes,  and  from  their  reputation 
for  learning  and  knowledge,  they  were  regarded  by  the  fu- 
perftitious,  ignorant,  and  credulous  laity,  as  an  order  of  fu- 
perior  beings.  Nothing,  therefore,  could  be  more  natural, 
than  to  call  the  place,  where  perfoxis  of  fuch  charaders  lived, 
Saig-town,  or  the  Town  of  the  Saints.  It  ought  alfo  to  be 
obferved,  as  it  very  ftrongly  marks  the  fpirit  and  manners 
of  thofe  dark  ages,  that  the  fairs,  in  all  the  towns  and  village^ 
conne&cd  with  the  monaftery,  were  named  after  fome  parti- 
cular faint,  who  was  afterwards  accounted  the  proteftor  or 
tutelar  iaint  of  the  place :  Such  as,  St.  Anthwy^  St.  Colm^  or 
Columba^  St,  Margaret,  St.  Bride^  or  Bridget.  The  days  on 
which  thefe  fairs  are  held,  are  dill  called  after  the  faint  whofo 
name  they  bear ;  as,  Colm^s^day^  Margaret^ s-^day^  \Sc. 

Situatiim  and  Extent.^-lt  b  fituated  in  Cunninghame,  one 
of  the  diftrifta  or  fubdivifions  of  the  county  of  Ayr,  and  is 
feparatcd  from  the  Weft  Coaft,  or  Irifli  Sea,  by  part  of  the 
pm(Les  of  Irvine  and  Stevenftown.  It  is  fuppofed  to  be  9 
£oglifli  miles  in  length,  and,  in  fome  parts  of  it,  not  much 
kfc  in  breadth.  The  figure,  however,  it  forms,  is  very  irre- 
{olar,  bebg  in  feveral  places  interfered  by  the  neighbouring 

parilhes 


144  Statifiical  Account 

pari{hes.  There  is  no  map  of  the  pariih,  nor  has  any  regular 
meafurement  ever  been  made  of  it.  For  this  reafon,  the  pre- 
cife  number  of  acres  it  contains  cannot  be  afcertained. 


General  Appearana.'^t  lifes  gradualtj  from  the  W.  and 
S.  and  S.  W.,  to  the  £.  and  N.  £•  In  both  thefe  dire£kions» 
it  terminates  in  what  majr  be  reckoned  high  landsi  but  with- 
out any  intervening  high  hill,  or  mountain*  The  face  of  the 
pariffi  is  beautifully  diverfificd,  by  thefe  eafy,  natural  rii^ngs, 
-which  flope  gently  towards  the  fea.  The  fummits  of  many  of 
them,  and  particularly  of  fuch  as  are  in  the  more  immediate 
neighbourhood  of  the  town,  were  planted  by  the  late  £atl  of 
EcLiNTOUNE.  The  greater  part  of  thefe  plantations^  being 
rather  more  than  40  years  old,  give  a  rich  and  very  highly 
cultivated  appearance  to  this  part  of  the  country, 

Clwiate^  Difeafts^  and  Longevity* — The  frequent,  and  fome- 
times  heavy  rains  that  fall  here,  are  probably  owing  to  the 
pariih  being  fo  very  near  the  fea,  and  to  its  ilcuation  with  refpe£t 
to  Kintyre  to  the  Hands  of  Arran,  of  Bute,  and  the  other 
Weftern  Ifles.  The  atmofphere,  by  thefe  rains,  is  often  ren- 
dered thick  and  cloudy.  The  denfer  parts  of  the  clouds,  how- 
ever, being  attraded  by  the  high  bills  on  the  S.  and  N.,  the 
air  is,  for  the  moft  part,  drier  and  purer,  than  in  thofepariflies 
which  are  near  or  contiguous  to  thefe  high  hills.  The  rains, 
therefore,  which  fall  here,  though  frequent,  and  at  times 
fevere,  are  not  known  to  produce  any  malignant  epidemical 
diforders.  Difeafes  of  this  kind  are,  almoft  always,  brought 
into  the  pariih  from  its  intercourfe  with  other  places,  either 
nearer  or  more  remote  ;  and  they  are  even  lefs  malignant,  or 
not  fo  fatal,  as  in  thofe  parts  from  which  they  are  brought. 
From  this  peculiar  wholefomenefs  and  purity  of  the  air,  the 
inhabitants  are,  in  general,  very  healthy.     Many  of  tbem 

live 


of  Kilwinning i  145 

live  to  a  verj  advanced  age.  Within  thefe  40  years,  feveral 
have  died  confiderably  above  8o.  During  this  period,  a  man 
died  at  9I9  and  a  woman  at  the  very  great  age  of  104.  There 
are  now  living  2  men  of  85,  one  of  91,  and  not  a  few  per- 
fons,  of  both  fexes,  between  70  and  82. 

SmaUPox. — ^Thiai  difeafe;  it  rnuft  bie  acknowledged,  is  a 
mdancholy  exception  to  thefe  fafts.  It  rages  here,  at  times, 
with  the  utmoft  violence,  and  is  often  extremely  fatal.  IvL 
the  fnmmer  and  autamn  of  1791;  upwards  of  90  childrezt 
had  the  natural  fmaU  pox,  and  more  than  one  half  of  them 
died.  The  chin-cough  and  natural  fmall  poi:  not  tiinfreqaent- 
Ij  prevail  at  the  fame  time.  When  this  happens,  as  was  the 
cafe  at  the  above  period,  the  ravages  cdmmitte<l  by  this  laft 
dileale,  are  tnily  dreadful.  The  coincidence  of  thefe  difeafes 
might,  in  a  great  meafure,  be  prevented  by  inoculation.  But 
though  in  this,  and  in  every  other  fefpeS,  inoculation  is  at- 
tended with  th^  happieft  confequences,  it  is  only  praAifed 
here  in  two  or  three  families.  From  ignorance,  and  the 
moft  fnpefiitious  prejudices,  the  parents,  regardlefs,  or  iii- 
lenfiUe  of  confequences,  inftead  of  inoci^lating  their  children^ 
crowd  into  thofe  hoofes  in  which  the  difeafe  is  of  the  mol£ 
malignant  nature,  and  at  a  time  when  it  is  the  moft  infe^ious« 
The  very  worft  kind  of  this  dangerous  and  loathfome  difeafe 
is,  in  this  matnner,  commanicated  and  fpread,  and  thoufand^ 
of  valuable  lives  are  loft  to  the  community.  This  impious 
prefumptioo,  thefe  illiberal  and  groutdlefs  prejudices,  are  not 
peculiar  to  this  parifti ;  in  every  other  country  pariih  in  2>cot« 
land,  the  great  bulk  of  the  people  think  and  ad  pretty  much 
in  the  fame  way.  It  is  well  known,  at  leaft  to  the  clergy, 
that  every  argument  in  fupport  of  inoculation,  however  con* 
clnfive  or  felf-evident,  makes  no  impreffion  upon  their  minds. 
To  make  a  law,  bbliging  all  perfolns,  without  diftinftion,  to 

Vol..  XI.  T  inoculate 


146  Statiftical  Accwnt 

inoculate  their  children,  would  be  thought  inconfifient  inritfc 
the  liberty  of  Britiih  fnbjefis,  and  even  with  the  common 
principles  of  hunumitj.  But  as  the  profperity,  naj  the  very 
exiftence  of  every  country,  is  infeparably  connefied  with  the 
number  of  its  inhabitants,  fomething  certainly  ought  to  be 
attempted,  to  render,  if  poffible,  inoculation  in  Scotland  more 
general  than  it  is  at  prefent.  With  a  view  to  this,  the  fol- 
lowing outlines  of  a  fcheme  are  humbly  propofcd. 

1^,  That  by  an  aA  of  parliament,  all  the  furgeons  in  Scot- 
land be  appointed,  under  certain  penalties,  to  keep  regular 
fcparate  lifts,  both  of  thefe  children  who  are  inoculated  by 
them,  and  of  thofe  under  their  care,  who  take  the  difeafe  in 
the  natural  way  \  and  to  ftate  the  precife  number  of  fuch  as 
die  of  the  inoculated,  and  of  the  natural  Imall  pox. 

ftd/f ,  In  order  to  fix,  with  the  utmoft  certainty,  the  exaA 
number  of  thofe  children  who  take  the  natural  fmall  pox, 
that  all  parents  be  appointed,  by  the  (sme  authority,  and  un- 
der the  ikme  penalties,  to  inform  their  family  furgeons,  even 
of  fuch  of  their  children,  as  have  the  difeafe  in  fuch  a  £i- 
vourable  way  as  not  to  need  the  ailiftance  of  a  furgeon* 

3^/^,  That  thofe  lifts  be  figned,  and  fent  to  Edinbut^ht 
once  every  year,  or  oftener,  if  it  fliall  be  judged  neceflary  ; 
and  printed  under  the  particular  direftion  of  government. 

/{My^  That  when  printed,  thefe  lifts  ftiall  be  immediately 
tranfmitted  to  the  magiftrates  and  clergy  of  every  town,  and 
to  the  juftices  of  the  peace,  and  the  clergy  of  every  country 
pariih,  to  be  by  them  diftributed,  and  made  as  univerfally 
known  as  pof&ble  among  the  people. 

Sthly,  That  a  falary  to  the  furgeons^  adequate  to  tiieir 
trouble,  be  eftabliflied  by  government ;  as  well  as  a  fund  for 
inoculating  the  children  of  the  poor. 

5  A  feries 


of  Kilwinning.  147 

A  feries  of  faAs,  thus  dearlj  and  I11II7  ftated  and  authen* 
Qcatedy  will,  by  degrees,  it  is  hoped*  convince  even  the  moit 
%iionnit  and  prejudiced  of  the  propriety  and  neceflitj  of  ino- 
colattoa  i  and,  at  bft,  make  them  readily  and  cheerfully  fall 
in  with  a  pra&ice  lb  wonderfully  calculate  under  Gos,  to 
prefisrve  life« 

Lakesy  MimralSf  and  Mineral  Waieri.-^Thtre  is  only  one 
lake  in  the  parifh,  called  the  AJhin^yard  Loch*  It  abounds  in 
excellent  pikes  and  perches. — There  are  quarries  of  free-fton^ 
in  different  parts  of  the  parifh*  Some  of  thefe  ftones  are  of  a 
veiy  fine  quality ;  and  are  carried  in  confiderable  quantities  to 
Irvine,  and  to  feveral  other  places  i^  the  neighbourhood- 
Lime-fUme,  of  the  very  heft  kind,  and  in  very  great  plenty, 
is  to  be  found  in  almoft  every  quarter  and  divifion  of  the  pa« 
riflii"  There  is  one  chalybeate  fpring  clofe by  the  town;  from 
the  nie  of  which,  perfbns,  labouring  under  nervous  pon»j»}aiKtf« 
have  received  confiderable  benefit. 

Caillbrw/.— -There  are  three  collieries  in  the  parifli,  viz^ 
Eqfier  Dowra^  belonging  to  I^otd  Liile,  which  lets  at  1401. 
per  annnai.  At  this  work  from  la  to  z6  colliers  are  emr 
{doyed.  Laigb  Fergus JnU%  belonging  to  the  heirs  of  the  late 
Mr.  M'Sowal,  which  is  at  preCent  under  leafe,  for  a  year,  at 
xooL  Moni^greenaUf  the  property  of  Mr.  Bowman  of  Aihe 
grove.  From  4  to  6  men  are  here  ufiially  employed.  It  is 
let  at  lol.  a  year.  From  the  two  firft  of  thefe  co^tUworks^ 
there  is  fiill  an  ezportatioa  to  Ireland,  from  the  port  of  Ir« 
vine.  Tliis  trade,  however,  is  now  very  triflbg  and  inconfip 
deiablci  compared  to  what  it  was  formerly, 

Staie  of  Property.-^Tht  valued  rent  of  the  pariih  is  630I. 
Scotch;  The  real  yearly  rent  is  thought  to  be  about  6ooo|. 

T?  Sterling; 


143  \StatifiicalAccqunl 

Sterlbg  ;  and  thr  rent  of  the  houfea  in  the  town  47|I.  %6m. 
The  Earl  of  Eglintoone  is  proprietor  of  niore  tha«  a  tfaaxd 
part  of  the  lands  of  die  partih.  There  are  9  other  coofider* 
aUe  proprietors ;  4  of  whom  refide  in  it)  and  $0  fiuaU  pro* 
prieto^,  called  fcners,  15  of  wbpm  are  npnfcefidkig*  There 
have  been 

Kewhoafesbnilt,  wiUun  thefezoyein,  -  -  -  -  16 
Hoofei  pQlled  down,  tnd  itlkoik  on  a  mndi  neater  and  mare  commodkma 

plan  ten  futterly,          •••*..  s( 

heaven  fliopt  new  bttilt,        •-*•••  ^ 

Thennnlierof  ftfonit  .  *  .  .  •  i^^ 
Thefise  of  the  fiurmt  is  reckoned  to  be  from  15  to  opwardt  of  zooacret. 

Number  of  honfet  in  the  town,             •              -             •           -  183 

Average  rent  yearly,           .            •            •            •            •           tiL  isa. 

Ubinhabited  hon&i%           -           -            .           -           •          •  4 

Rivers  and  Fi^f  iffr— —There  are  a  rivers  in  th«  pariflit 
Gtnmoci  and  Lugton.  The  laft  c^  thefe  rifes  In  the  pwiii  of 
NeiLflon  in  Reafrewfhire.  It  runs  through  a  great  ptft  of 
this  pariihy  and  falls  into  the  Garoock,  about  an  Engliih  mile 
below  Eglintonne  Caftle.  There  is  plentj  of  Tcry  iae  tmuts 
in  it.  Gamock,  bj  fo  the  moft  oobfideraUe  of  diefe  a  rivers, 
has  ks  fonrce  in  the  high  hills  in  the  parift  of  Kilbinfej, 
about  the  diftatice  of  10  Engliilh  mtiea  from  i^  towa  of 
Kilwinning.  A£ttt  running  for  fome  myes  through  this  pa- 
riih,  it  fidis  into  the  Iriik  Sea  at  the  harbout  of  Irvine.  It  is 
well  ftored  with  falmon,  ai^  with  d^rent  kindtt  of  e^codleot 
trouts.  The  fsdmon  fifhiag,  in  this  river,  is  at  the  beft  in  the 
snonth  of  July;  and  is  the  exchifive  property  of  Lord  Eglin« 
toune,  ffbm  about  one  fourth  of  a  mile  above  the  town,  to 
where  the  river  falls  into  the  icz.  Ifike  all  rivers  which 
have  their  fources  in  very  elevated  iituations,  it  is  liable  to 

fiiddeii 

/ 
*  Thefe  sbonfet  are  in  the  pariih.  Id  the  towD»  the  honlei  arc  all  inhabited. 


'  of  Kilwntdf^.  1 49 

fsdte  inmidatiott8*>  On  this  river,  and  aKo  on  the  Lugton, 
there  «re  fomc  ficnations  eztremelj  proper  for  ere&ing  cottoa 
niUi.  There  is  a  plentiful  and  conftant  fupplj  of  the  very 
beft  water  for  all  kinds  of  machioerj  \  a  populous  and  highly 
caltivaied  countrj,  in  the  near  neighbourhood  of  fome  goo4 
market  towns  \  oatmeal,  the  ordinary  food  of  the  labouring 
people,  is  cheaper  by  id.,  and  fometimes  by  ad.  a  peck,  than 
is  Glafgow  and  Paifley ;  and' all  other  kinds  of  provifiona  are 
ia  the  lame  proportion* 

^%aii  and  Bridges. — ^There  are  4  turnpike  roads  in  th^ 
parifii.  Thefe  were  originally  made  and  kept  in  repair  by 
the  ftatote  labour.  This  was  exacted  formerly  in  kind ;  but, 
for  more  than  ao  years,  it  has,, by  an  aft  of  parliament,  beea 
converted  into  money.  Every  farm,  whether  in  tillage  or  in 
gca£^  pays  at  the  rate  of  jd-  Sterling  for  every  pound  Scotch 
of  valued  rent ;  and  eyery  houfeholder,  who  does  not  occupy 
land  to  the  amount  of  lal.  Scotch  of  valued  rent,  pays  3s. 
Sterling  yearly.  Such  poor  families  as  produce  a  certificate 
10  the  c<dle&or,  from  the  miniiler,  of  their  inability  to  pay 
this  tax,  are  exempted  from  payment.  The  average  annual 
aflMont  of  the  money  levied  for  fiatute  labour  is  99L  This 
fttm  bciag  f^fficient  for  making  the  roads,  and  keeping  them 
ia  piioper  repair,  there  is  no  toll  levied,  nor  any  toll-bar 
Acfiid  ia  the  parilh*  Unfortunately,  the  4  roads  are  almoft 
jtt  the  voy  citremities  of  the  W*  and  S.  W.  parts  of  the  pa* 

rilh. 

^  Ob  the  t9lii  of  Septonber  1790,  there  was  a  Tcry  remarkable  inundatioD. 
The  lirer  rde  4  ktx  higher,  than  eTcr  it  was  known  to  have  done  at  any  former 
Knod.  This  flood  did  great  damage  to  the  growing  corns,  and  carried  into 
dK  fa  great  quantities  of  fnch  as  were  cut  down.  The  town  lies  on  both  (idea 
■f  the  river ;  and  the  lower  parts  of  it  were  hud  almoA  quite  under  water.  Aa 
dkis  ioandatioo  happened  m  the  night,  many  of  the  inhabitants  were  ia  thegreatcft 
dH|er,aBd had  jvft  time  to  tk^t  with  their  lirea. 


150  Stctf/fical  Account 

rifh.  Th«  other  roads,  not  included  in  the  preCent  aft  of  par* 
Uament,  are  totally  negleAed,  and  are  nfezt  to  impaflable  for 
snore  than  three  fourths  of  the  je9x.  One  of  theniy  leading 
from  th^  town  to  the  very  eaftem  boundary  of  the  parifh,  mud 
nearly  through  the  very  middle  of  it,  is  about  6  Englilh 
miles  long.  This  line  of  road,  the  very  worft,  perhaps,  in 
the  whole  county,  is  effentially  neceflary  to  every  agricoltaral 
improvement  in  the  parifli ;  and,  if  made,  would  open  a  com-> 
munication  between  this  part  of  the  country  and  Glafgow, 
feveral  miles  nearer  than  the  prefent  line  by  Irvine  and  Stew- 
artown.  It  is,  therefore,  moft  eamcftly  requefted,  that  when 
a  new  county  road  bill,  is  applied  for,  this  road  may  be  pur* 
ticularly  included  in  \U 

Birisj  Plants^  Woods  and  Soil, — ^The  migratory  birds  are 
the  cuckoo,  the  wood-cock,  the  bulfinch,  and  the  green  mad 
gray  plover. — There  is  no  curious  plant  to  be  found  liere. 
The  greater  part  of  the  parifli  being  cultivated,  no  rare  indi- 
genous plants  are  to  be  met  with,  except  a  few  of  the  Cryfto^ 
gamia  of  Linnaeus.— There  are  no  natural  woods  in  the  parifli. 
Befides  the  very  extenfive  plantations,  the  property  of  Lord 
Eglintoune,  there  are  feveral  other  plantationa  in  diffBrenc 
parts  of  the  parifli,  and  fome  very  fine  full-grown  old  trees 
of  afli,  plane,  beech  and  elm.  The  weather  on  the  whole  of 
this  weft  coaft  is  often  very  variable.  There  are  frequendjr 
very  quick  tranfitions  from  heat  to  cold,  from  froft  to  rain* 
Thefe  tranfitions,  attended  fometimes  with  violent  S.  W.  and 
W.  winds,  are  hurtful  to  vegetation.  Trees,  in  general,  and 
efpeciaUy  all  fuch  trees  as  are  of  the  refinous  kinds,  fuffier  very 
much  from  them. — About  one  half  of  the  parifli  is  a  ftiff,  wet, 
clay  foil,  a&d  the  other  a  light  fand  and  loam, 

Rfntj 


of  Kilwinning.  15 1 

> 
Rentt^  jigriculture^  \Jc.f ^The  average  rent  of  the 

fanns,    per  acre,  is   x8s.     The  whole  of   the   parifh  is 

aodofed   with  hedge  and  ditch.      Such  of  the  hedges   a^ 

ar» 


f  By  wif  of  contraft  to  the  prefent  improTcd  (btte  of  the  parilh,  i^ 
■Xf  HOC  be  improper  to  infert  the  reiU^  mode  of  eultivaiiou^  prUet  of  privi^ 
fm»^  f!f«.  t^«.  that  took  place  ahout  50  years  ago.  In  the  year  Z741,  the 
aYcra^e  rent  of  an  acre  was  i%  The  parish  was  then  wholly  unindofed,  ' 
cicepting  an  iadofare  or  two  about  EgUntoune  Caftk.  The  fonnera 
flowed  with  4,  and  fometxmei  with  6  hories,  and  3  men.  The  bnfineis  of 
«f  die  third  man,  it  was  pracended,  would  keep  the  plough  fteady,  and  prevent  its 
fiartiDg  allde,  or  g«ng  out  of  the  firaight  line.  The  ridges  were  exceffiTel  j 
hroad,  and  raifed  very  high  in  the  middle.  Nearly  two  thirds  of  every  ridge 
were  left,  in  a  great  meafnre,  without  any  of  the  foil,  and  even  the  very  little 
thatfemttBed  being,  during  the  winter,  ahnoft  covered  with  water,  was  iiMured, 
and  eoolequeatly  in  a  ftate  that  produced  very  little,  either  of  grafs  or  grain. 
Every  farm  was  confidered  as  divided  into  ourrirLo  and  iMriiLD,  or,  as  this  tail 
vras  odle^  lit  enft.  The  infield,  or  the  croft,  was  in  proportion  to  the  iise  of 
the  Cum,  from  6  to  16  acres.  It  was  kept  conftantly  in  tillage.  The  tmtfi  ^ 
tnpf  vraa,  xft,bear;  ad,  peafe  and  beans ;  3d,  oau;  then  dnngedfor  bear.  The 
•atfield  vraa  never  manured*  It  was  divided  into  two  parts,  crept  with  oaU  % 
yeui^  and  paffantd  %•  Tbii  was  the  general  pradice.  There  were  ibme  who  cropt 
it  %  years»  and  pafinrcd  3.  Produce  from  i^  to  %  county  bolls.  This  produce 
did  little  more,  (if  So  nrach),  than  to  defray  the  expences  of  feed  and  labour 
There  vraa  no  iown  graft ;  confeqnentty  no  bay,  except  in  Ibme  few  farms,  s 
fittfe  cQorle  meadow  hay.  F^om  thisflovenly  and  abfurd  mode  of  management^ 
the  paftnre  vraa  extremely  fcanty,  and  of  a  very  poor  quality.  There  were  no 
carta.  The  produce  of  the  £um  was  brought  to  market  in  facks  on  horfeback. 
The  dsng  was  carried  to  the  croft  in  finall  creels  on  horfeback,  or  in  fledges. 
Though  the  ibil  was  wet,  and  entirely  without  any  flielter,  every  farm  kept  a 
certain  numbet  of  (beep.  The  number  varied  according  to  the  extent  of 
the  iamu  They  were  conftantly  houfed  at  night.  The  wool  they  produced 
waa  coarie,  and  in  very  ihiall  quantities.  There  were  very  few  milk  cows. 
From  their  ignorance  of  a  dairy,  the  profits  the  formers  made  of  the  few  cowa 
they  kept, were  extremely  inconfiderable.  Skimm*d  milk  cheefe  was  the  only  kind 
they  knew  how  to  make.  The  little  fweet  milk  cheefe  which  wu  then  ufed, 
wa»fflRpBrted  firom  Ireland.  Lizpe  was  very  little  known,  and  ftill  lels  ufed  as  a 
nuonre*  There  were  no  potatoes  planted,  except  perhaps  a  very  few  ia  a  gar- 
den, or  in  the  concr  of  a  field- 


i^i  StoHJlical  Account 

are  kept  cleaov  aod  btherwife  properly  attended  to,  thrite  ex- 
tremely welly  |ind  become,  in  a  few  years,  a  Teiy  ftrong 
fence.  On  feme  farms,*  tfees  are  planted  in  the  hedges.  It 
is  much  to  be  regretted,  that  this  mode  of  inclofing  was  not 
more  generally  praftifed.  Thefe  hedge  rows,  befides  the 
warmth  lind  (belter  whidh  they  afford,  embellifli  and  enrich^ 
to  a  very  great  degree,  the  whole  face  of  the  country.  What- 
ever reludance  and  averfion,  from  ignorance  or  prejudice, 
the  farmers  ttigh't,  at  firft,  difcovei  to  indafiogt  they  now 
leel  and  acknowledge  its  advantages,'  and  co&fequeatly  are 
univerfally  fond  of  it.  Difregarding  the  former  abfutd  divi- 
iion  into  outJUld  and  infield^  or  croft,  farms  are  now  divided 
into  3  or  4  inclpfures,  as  nearly  equal  as  poflibly  can  be  done. 
Such  fiums  as  are  divided  into  3  indofufes,  or*  as  they  are 
comoaonly  called,  breaks^  the  tenant,  by  his  leafe,  is  bound, 
under  a  certain  ftipulated  penalty,  to  plow  dne  only  of  thefe 
.at  a  time  \  to  crop  3  years,  and  pafture  5.  Hie  4th  year  it 
is  cut  for  hay.  The  principal  crop  is  oats.  He  (bwd  between 
<  and  7  bufliels  an  acre :  Reaps,  at  a  medium,-  frbni  5  to  6 
boUs.  On  a  clky  foil,  or  a  rich  loam,  beans  are  fon^'n,  at  the 
rate  of  between  5  and  6  bnfliels  an  acre.  The  average  pto-' 
duce  is  7  bolls,  j  bufhels  to  the  boU.  Four  bu{Iiels  bear  pro- 
duce 5  bolls,  8  bttlhels  to  the  boll.  There  is  however  very 
little  bear  now  fown,  and  no  wheat  nor  barfey,  and  but  few 
beans.  The  alinoft  univerfal  crop  in  the  parifh  is  oats.  Some 
time  in  the  month  of  Auguft  it  is  limed  on  the  fward  ;  and, 
about  a  fortpight  or  three  weeks  before  plowing,  whatever 
dung  the  farmers  have,  is  laid  out,  and  fpread  over  the  Ume. 
The  price  of  lime  at  the  draw-kill,  is  from  4id.  to  $A*  a  bn-- 
ihel.  The  ground .  is  fown  down  the  3d  year  with  xye-grafs* 
and  clover,  at  the  rate  of  3  bufhels  rye-grafs  an  acre,  and 
from  6  lb.  to  xo  lb.  red  and  white  clover.  The  produce  is 
'  from  150  to  2ao  ftones,  24  Englifli  lbs.  to  the  ftone.    Farms, 

divided 


of  Kilwinning:  i  j3 

divided  into  4  inclofures,  are  managed  precifely  in  the  fame 
way  ;  with  this  only  diScrence,  that  every  inclofure  refts  9 
years  inftcad  of  6. — ^The  Scotch  plough,  of  the  lighted  and 
beft  kind,  is  generally  ufed  ;  and  it  is  drawn  by  3,  and  fome- 
times  by  4  horfes,  with  a  man  and  a  boy.  The  price  of  the 
ploagh  is  from  25s.  to  30s.  When  the  feafon  happens  to  be 
uncommonly  dry,  oats  and  beans  begin  to  be  fown  about  the 
middle  of  March ;  but,  in  general,  very  little  is  fown  before 
the  month  of  April.  Bear  continues  to  be  fown,  from  about 
&c  beginning  to  the  latter  end  of  May.  There  is  no  general 
harveft  till  about  the  iirft,  and  fometimes  the  fecond  week  pf 
September.  It  is  moftly  over  about  the  latter  end  of  October. 
By  far  the  greateft  part  of  the  hay  and  harveil  work  is  done  by 
women,  at  from  is.  to  ijd.  a  day,  without  visuals.  When 
hired  till  the  whole  of  the  grain  is  cut  dowti,  which  is  the 
more  general  praAice,  they  have  from  2  js.  to  30s.,  with 
boscd. 

Faiiure  of  the  Crop  in  X  78  2.— •Different  caufes,  no  doubt,  con- 
tributed to  this  failure,  in  different  parts  of  the  country :  But 
in  this  parifh,  and  in  others  immediately  on  the  fea  coaft,  the 
chief  caufe  of  its  failure  was  owing  to  a  very  fevere  weft 
wind,  about  the  middle,  or  towards  the  latter  end  of  the 
month  of  Aoguft^  which  continued  with  the  utmoft  violence 
fior  a  confiderable  time.  The  corns  had  their  roots  loofened, 
and  were  otherwife  much  damaged  by  this  ftorm.  From  be- 
ing in  general,  very  green,  when  it  happened,  in  a  few  days 
afterwards  they  grew  white,  but  never  filled.  Snow  alfo,  in 
fnch  parts  of  the  pariih  as  were  at  the  greateft  diftance  from 
the  lea,  fell  earlier,  and  in  greater  quantities,  than  ever  had 
been  known  at  that  feafon  of  the  year.  A  boll  of  well  ripen- 
ed oats  yields,  at  an  average,  from  17  to  ao  pecks  of  meal, 
and  even,  fometimes,  more:  But,  in  1782,  the  boll  of  oats. 

Vol..  XI.  U  of 


ijf4  Statlftical  Account 

ef  i6  pecksy  yielded  only  from  lo  to  1 2  pecks  of  meal.  The 
price  of  the  peck  of  meal  that  year,  was  from  I4d.  to  i8d« 
The  parifh  produces  grain  aimed  equal  to  the  confumptioQ  of 
its  inhabitants,  though  more  than  one  third  of  it  be  in 
pafture. 

Pajlurage^  \3c,F^iTi  a  wet  clay  foil,  it  generally  takes  3 
acres  to  feed  a  milk  cow  $  but,  in  a  light  dry  foil,  li,  or  at 
mod  a  acres,  are  fufficitnt.  The  weight  of  a  milk  cow  is 
from  16  to  20  ftones ;  the  average  produce  from  4l*  to  5!. 
For  grais  to  a  horfe,  50s. ;  for  ditto  to  a  milk  cow,  from  30s. 
to  40s.  There  is  a  great  quantity  of  fweet  milk  cheefe  made 
in  the  parifh,  and  of  the  very  beft  quality  j  for  which  there  is 
«  conftant  demand  in  Glafgow  and  Paifley,  and  of  late  in 
Edinburgh.  Every  farmer  has  one,  or  more,  one-horfe  carts, 
worth  from  $\.  to  81. 

Poiatee  Hujbandry^  C^r.— -Potatoes  are  raifed  by  hor(e*hoe« 
ing,  and  are  planted  at  the  diftance  of  '3  feet  between  the  rows, 
and  6  inches  from  plant  to  plant  in  the  rows.  The  ground 
is  dunged  at  the  rate  of  from  50  to  70  carts  an  acre.  It  gets 
5  plowings  i  the  2  firft  with  3  horfes,  and  the  other  3  with 
2  and  z  horfe.  The  planting  and  raifing  cofts  from  8s«  to 
I  OS.  The  potatoes  are  commonly  raifed  with  the  fpade,  in«- 
ftead  of  the  plough,  owing  to  the  heavy  rains,  which  generally 
fet  in  at  the  time  they  are  raifed.  The  produce  is  from  30 
bolls  an  acre,  and  upwards  j  the  average  price  6d*  a  peck.  A 
potatoe  crop  is  reckoned  an  excellent  fallow  for  oats  or  bear. 
Lord  Eglintoune  has,  under  his  own  management,  a  very  ex^ 
tenfive  farm,  the  greater  part  of  which  is  of  a  light  fandy 
foil.  The  high  broad  ridges  are  now  reduced  to  low  ridges,  of 
8  feet  each.  One  year  before  it  is  broken  up,  it  is  limed  on 
the  fward,  at  the  rate  of  from  80  to  15P  bolls  an  acre.     The 

rotation 


of  Kilwinning^  i  ^^ 

rouaiom  of  crops  ia,  the  a  firft  years  oats, ;  the  3d,  a  fallow, 
or  a  horfe-hoed  crop  of  potatoes  and  turnips.  This  crop  is 
danged»  at  the  rate  of  60  carts  an  acre.  The  4th  year  barley, 
and  ibmetimes  oats.  It  is  then  laid  down  with  natural  grafs 
feeds,  and  clover  and  lye-grals,  and  allowed  to  reft  from  8  to  10 
years.  The  produce  is  from  6  to  10  bolls  an  acre.  Gompofta 
of  dang,  earth  and  lime  are  fpread  on  the  field  in  the  2d  and 
3d  years  after  it  has  been  laid  down.  Cattle,  fed  on  the  farm, 
clear  from  aos.  to  30s.  an  acre_There  are  now  only  3  malt 
kilns. 

Prices  ofProvifions.'^The  average  priceof  oatmeal,  for  thcfe 
laft  ao  years,  has  been  i  ifd.  a  peck  -,  beef,  per  pound,  44d.;  veal» 
4d. ;  lamb,  3d. ;  pork,  from  4id.  to  jd.;  fweet  milk  cheefe, 
from  5  id.  to  6d.;  fkimm'd  milk  ditto,  from  ij^d.  to  4d.;  butter, 
9*^*  f  ^SS^f  pcf  dozen,  from  4d.  to  6d. ;  a  hen,  from  is.  to 
Is.  4d. ;  a  duck,  from  9d.  to  is.  id. ;  candles,  per  pound,  16 
ounces,  7id. ;  hard  foap,  8d.  j  foft  4itto,  (d. ;  a  pair  of  ihoes, 
6s.  For  the  prefent  prices  of  labour,  fee  the  table  of  profef«< 
lionsj  Sec.  pages  160  and  i6x. 

U  a  Manmr 

*FrQia  the  very  imperfed  fiate  of  agriculture  in  X74l»  and  forfeveral 
years  afterwards,  the  price  of  oatmeal  was  Tariable  ai^d  uncertain.  It  was 
fiMBctinies  as  ht^  as  x8d.  a  peck,  afld  again  ta  rery  low  as  jd.  a  peck.  The 
prices  of  butter,  and  other  providoos,  per  lb.  (94  Englifli  ounces  to  the  lb.},  were 
butter  3d.;  beef,  from  x^  to  l}d.;  Teal,  ad.;  iamb,  i{d.;  mutton,  X'jd.; 
ikimmM  milk  chcefey  x^.;  candles,  x6  ounce  to  the  lb,  4d ;  hard  foap,  4d.;  foft 
ditto,  3d. ;  eggs,  a  dozen,  xd. ;  a  hen,  from  3d.  to  4d. ;  a  duck,  4^*  >  >  P^ 
of  flioes,  from  as.  to  as.  6d. ;  a  load  of  coals,  (8  loads  in  the  ton),  6d. ;  b^ary 
per  boU,  (S  Winchefter  bulhels  per  boU),  from  9s.  to  xos. ;  malt  ditto,  from  xos. 
to  X3t.  4dt  "^c  wages  of  a  male  farm  fenrant  were  from  358.  to  40s.  per  an  n. 
of  a  female  ditto,  from  a6s.  to  30s.  Domeftic  female  fenraats  had  the  famf 
wages.  There  were  no  domeftic  male  ferrants,  except  foch  as  were  in  liTcry. 
The  wages  of  a  day  hboufer  wae  3|d«  or  4d.  with  his  mMnteaa&ce ;  and  8d« 
irithoBtit. 


156  Skiti/iical  Account 

Manner  of  Lining^  t^r.— It  is  to  be  obferved,  that,  not- 
withftanding  the  very  great  rife  of  rents,  and  of  fetvants 
wages,  the  farmers  live  much  more  comfortably,  and  make  a. 
more  decent  and  refpefiable  appearance,  than  they  did  30 
years  ago*.  Their  rents  are  more  regularly  and  punftnally 
paid,  and  there  arc  fewer  bankruptcies,  or  failures  among 
them.  There  is,  however,  a  ftill  greater,  and  more  ftriking 
difference,  in  the  drefs  and  manner  of  living  of  the  tradefmen, 
than  of  thefarmers.  Agood  deal  of  Englifli  broadcloth  is  worn 
by  the  men  ;  and  both  miftrefles  and  fer van t* maids,  (for  in 
point  of  drefs  there  is  little  difference  between  them),  have 
their  filk  cloaks  and  bonnets,  their  muflin  and  calico  gowns  ^ 
their  ribbons  and  flounced  petticoats,  with  cotton  and  thread 
ilockings.  Tradefmen  do  not  live  nearly  fo  much  on  oatmeal 
as  they  did  in  1741*  There  is  fcarcely  one  of  their  families 
in  which  tea,  with  wheaten  bread,  is  not  ufed  for  breakfall  \ 
and  very  few  that  do  not  drink  it  in  the  afternoon.  Farmerst 
tradefmen,  and  day-labourers,  live  a  good  deal  on  butcher 
meat,  with  potatoes.  In  1792,  upwards  of  aoo  fatted  cows 
were  made  ufe  of,  befides  veal,  lamb,  and  pork. 

Leafes* 

*  In  1741,  the  mm  irore  firoDg  coBrfe  doth;  the  greater  parr,  if  not  the 
whole,  of  which  was  fpun  in  their  own  families,  and  woven  and  drcflcd  in  the 
pariih*  Knit  woollen  ftockiogs  were  then  only  beginning  to  be  nfed  by  a  few 
of  the  men.  Plaiding  hofe  were  ftill  the  general  wear.  There  were  no  hats; 
bonnets  were  uniTerfally  in  ufe.— The  wives  of  fome  of  the  mord  wealthy  and 
fubftantial  farmers,  and  tradefmen,  had  fUk  plaids;  but  by  far  the  greater  part 
of  the  married  women,  red  or  firipcd  worfied  ones.  Young  women  wore 
woollen  cloaks,  with  hoods  of  the  fame  kind  of  doth.  This  cloih  was  of  home 
manufadure.  They  had  no  buckles  in  their  (hoes;  thefe  were  tied  with  a  piece 
of  red  or  blue  tape.  The  women  in  general,  and  particularly  the  yonngerpart 
of  them,  feldom  put  on  flioes  and  fiockings,  eicepting  to  the  church,  or  to  a 
fair  or  market.  Their  head-drefs  was  extremely  plain  and  fimple. — ^They  lived 
chiefly  on  oatmeal  and  milk,  or  butter  and  (kimmed  milkchcefe.   Butcher  meat 

was 


of  Kilwinning.  2  r  7 

Za^/-— The  leafes  are  commoolj  of  19  or  a i  jears  endur-* 
ace.  Theie  (horc  leafes  are  a  verj  great  difcouragement  to 
tbemduftryof  the  farmer,  and  confequently  highlj  injariousto 
tke  intereft  both  of  the  proprietor  and  the  tenant.  With  fuch 
a  Ihort  leafe  he  will  make  no  new  experiments ;  be  will  not 
even  proceed  with  fpirit  and  animation,  in  the  common  beaten 
trad  of  hnfbandrj  pradifed  by  his  neighbours,  or  impofed  on 
htm  by  the  terms  of  his  leafe.  Or  ihould  he,  at  the  com- 
mencement of  it,  make  any  uncommon  exertions,  he  very 
foon  becomes  difpirited,  if  not  carelefs  and  remiis.  The . 
thought  of  the  (hortneis  of  his  leafe  forces  itfelf  upon  his 
mind,  almoft  inceilantly ;  and  he  is  fcarcely  entered  on  poflef- 
fioB,  when  he  thinks  he  fees  the  end  of  it.  He  has  a  young 
increafing  family  of  children.  They  are  unaUe  to  ailift  him : 
He  is  neceifiirily  obliged  to  hire  fenrants,  at  very  high  wages* 
The  education  of  his  children,  the  board  and  wages  of  his  . 
fenranta,  and  other  unavoidable  expences,  embarais  him  to 
fuch  a  degree,  that,  with  all  his  induftry  and  attention,  he 
can  with  the  utmoll  difliculty  pay  his  rent.  After  i a  or  14 
years,  his  profpefts  begin  to  brighten.  The  oldeft  of  his 
children  arc  now  of  fome  ufe  to  him,  in  the  cultivation  of  his 
farm.  He  knows,  from  experience,  the  different  foils  that 
are  in  his  farm,  and  the  different  kinds  of  grain  that  are  beft 
adapted  to  thefe  foils.  In  a  very  few  years  he  will  have  it  in 
his  power  to  difmifs  all  his  fervants,  and  to  work  his  farm 

with 

v»  (cldom  nfcd  by  the  farmcn,  cicept  in  feed-time  and  harveft ;  and  veiy  lit- 
tle of  it,  at  any  time,  by  tradcfmen  anu  day  labourers.  About  the  beginning 
of  November,  a  few  finall  Highland  cows  were  brought  from  the  iflands  of 
Arran  aod  Bute,  and  fold  at  from  13s.  4d.  to  oos.  One  of  thefe  was  divided 
among  three  or  more  familiea.  Such  farmera  as  were  reckoned  in  very  opulent 
dfcunftaaeei,  fometimes  killed  a  cow  in  November,  which  had  given  milk  till 
the  beginniofr  of  Auguifc.  There  were  only  4  tea  kettks  in  the  parifh  m  X742* 
TlMre  waft  not  one  in  it  before  1 709* 


158  Statiflical  Account 

with  the  aififtance  of  his  childreo.    But,  anotdft  thefe  tMber^ 
ing  profpefts,  his  leafe  is  at  an  end.     With  his  family^    be 
xnuft  remove  he  knows  not  whither,  and  leave  the  fruits  o£ 
his  laborious  and  painful  induftrj^  to  another;  a  ftranger,  per* 
haps,  or  even  an  enemy,  who  has  long  envied  him»    While 
fnch  is  th«  ftate  of  leafes,  can  the  country  be  cultivated  witli 
fpirit  and  e£Fe£t  ?     To  accomplifli  this,  the  farmer  muft  have 
fomething  like  the  idea  of  property  in  his  poffeiBon,  or,  at 
kaft,  the  higheft  degree  of  probability  of  tranfmitting  it  to 
his  children.     To  render  this  equally  advantageons  to  the 
landlord  and  to  the  tenant,  the  form  of  a  leafe,  propofed  ia 
his  book  on  hufbandry,  by  the  very  ingenious,  learned,  sod 
patriotic  Lord  Kames,  feems  to  be  more  efieftual,  than  any 
other  hitherto  ofiered  to  the  public  *• 

Horfes. — There  is  «  very  excellent  breed  of  large,  ftroog, 
handfome  horfe^.  They  are  brought  from  Lanarkihire  when 
about  a  year  old.  The  average  price  is  ill.  After  being 
kept  for  4  or  5  years,  they  are  Ibid,  from  ajU  to  40I.,  for 
the  draught  or  carriage. 

population. — ^The  return  made  to  Dr.  Webfter,  io  ITS 5% 

5  of 


*  As  this  book  is  not  in  the  hands  of  a  great  many,  and  as  it  is  read,  par* 
liapSy  but  by  few,  bis  Lordibip*8  form  of  a  leafe  is  here  copied.  "  In  order  tp 
"  excite  the  induftry  of  tiic  tenant,  at  the  end  of  the  leafe,  he  Ihall  be  entitled 
«*  to  a  renewal  of  it,  upon  paying  the  proprietor  a  fifth  part  more  of  rent,  on- 
'*  lefs  the  proprietor  give  him  ten  years  {urchafe  of  that  fifth  part.  For  ex- 
**  ample;  the  rent  is  xooL;  the  tenant  offers  laol. :  He  (hall  therefore  continue 
**  in  the  poflcfiion  another  19  years,  at  the  advanced  rent,  unlefs  the  landlord 
**  pay  him  aool.  Should  the  tenant  ofier  a  ftill  higher  additional  rent,  the  pro- 
**  prietor  cannot  turn  him  out,  unlefs  he  pay  him  ten  years  purchafe  of  that 
«  ofier." 


of  Kiholnning.  i^ 

of  the  populatioii  of  this  parifli,  was  -         2541  Souls, 

From  alateeaumenition  there  are,  in  the 

country  part  of  the  pariih,  -  iioo  n 

And  in  the  town,  -  -        -  ia6oJ*3  ^ 

Decreafe,         -        -        -      181 

Thefe  are  all  of  the  eftabli(hment,  except  212  Antlburgher 
Seceders,  a  few  families  of  Burghers,  and  an  equally  fmaE 
number  of  the  Relief  perfuafion.  There  are  no  Epifcopaliaos 
nor  Roman  Catholics.  From  the  moft  unqueftionable  tradi« 
don,  it  appears,  that,  about  50  years  ago,  the  country  parilh 
was  confiderably  more  populous  than  it  is  now.  The  caufes 
of  thu  decreafe  in  the  population  feem  to  be  the  three  fol- 
lowing :— -1^1  The  union  of  two  or  more  fmall  farms  into  one 
large  fium.  This  has  happened  in  not  a  few  inftances,  2d/^^ 
The  barony  of  Eglintoune,  formerly  one  of  the  moft  populous 
qnaiters  or  divifions  of  the  parifh,  is  inclofed  and  &rmed  hy 
Lord  Eglxktoune,  and  inhabited  only  by  a  very  few  families 
of  his  Lordfhip*s  fervants.  Sdfyf  The  almoft  total  want  of 
cottagers.  Every  farm  had  formerly  one  or  two,  or  more  o£ 
thele  families  upon  it.  The  cottages  are  now,  in  a  great  mea« 
fvci  demoliflied ;  and  this  numerous  and  induflrious  clafs  of 
people  has  been  under  the  neceiEty  of  removing  to  IrvinCt 
and  to  the  other  towns  in  the  neighbourhood.  From  the  want 
of  trade  and  manufaOures,  very  few  of  them  fettled  in  Kil- 
winning. Owing  to  the  rapid  progrefs  of  manufaftnres,  how« 
ever,  the  population  in  the  town  has,  for  fome  years  pafi,  been 
on  the  increafe.  From  the  fpirit  of  induftry  and  enterprife 
nniverially  fpread  throilgh  the  country,  there  is  every  degree 
of  probability,  diat  thefe  will  make  a  ftill  more  fuccefiful  and 
cxtenfive  progrefs ;  and  that  the  population  will  proportionablj 
increafe* 

The 


i6o 


Statifiical  Account 


The  following  table  exhibits  a  view  of  the  prefent  nam1>er 
of  the  different  artifts,  their  journeTmen  and  apprentices,  their 
rates  of  wages,  Skc. 


IFi^x 

fr^^Sm.. 

.Mrf. 

Jiir. 

-f/^r«. 

r«to/. 

' 

31  i 

From  08  to  0   xo 

— —  iilkgtuxch 

5«- 

I  6  to  »     6 

146- 

— —  I  6  to  »     6 

loalJ, 

t7 

104 

6% 

a33 

Tsmbonren*, 

u- 

ScMnftrcflct*, 

7  ■ 

-*—  0  6  to  0     9 

Smiths, 

% 

la  - 

z     6 

Shoemakers, 

I 

6 

X     4 

Mafons, 

a 

9  • 

—  I  8  to  »     0 

TaUors, 

0 

10 

Md.  wkbTia. 

CooperSy 

0 

5 

X    6 

Honle  carpeoursy 

II 

7 

»4 

a    6 

MiU-wrights, 

% 

4 

z    8 

Vheel-wrights, 

». 

"q 

I 

% 

fintchersy 

0 

3 

Biken, 

0 

0 

a 

Siosceo. 

0 

0 

I 

Writers, 

0 

I 

% 

SUter, 

0 

0 

z 

Barber, 

0 

0 

X 

Dyer, 

0 

0 

z 

Tanoerfy 

0 

0 

a 

Chandlers* 

0 

0 

a 

Clocknuker, 

0 

0 

t 

Keepers 


**  Women,  andgirU  from  7  years  old,  arc  employed  in  tambonrlng  muflins. 
The  othen  flower  mufims  with  the  needle.  The  gaozes  and  miiflias  ave  feac 
here,  for  that  purpefe,  by  the  muattfa^urers  of  CUTgov  and  Faifley. 


of  Kilwinning.  1 6 1 

Keepers  of  public  houfct  in  the  town  *^  •       .        .         .       .        j  • 

Skopkeepere,  grocers,  &c.  •....  .  •-zi 
Shipmaflen  3,  fetmen  ix  f,  -  •  .  •  .  j^ 

Soldiers  in  the  amy  f,  •  -  .  •  .  •!» 

Cttriers  to  Oh%o«r  aod  Pkiiky,  -  .  .  .  ^       % 

Cuttrsychiefly  employed  in  bringing  coals  to  the  towa,  .  •  .  ^ 
Diybboarers,  -  ....  37^  from  n.  to  11,  6d,  a  day 
Male  fum  iiervantSy  per  annflm,  .  .  «         from  zoL  to  xal. 

Female  ditto. 4L  to    61. 

Bometic  ditto,        ---..-..  3I,  jq,. 


A  Lift  of  BiiiLTHS,  Deaths,  and  Marriages,  for  the  lafl 
eight  years ;  extrafte^  from  the  pariOi  regifter. 


BiaTHs. 

Dkatrs.          I 

Ma  a  11. 

Years. 

Males. 

FemaL 

Total. 

Males. 

FcmaL 

Total. 

AGES. 

1785 

%% 

30 

58 

XA 

10 

a:» 

ai 

1786 

36 

ao 

66 

9 

X5 

24 

^1 

I7«7 

%A 

%t 

50 

40 

«9 

39 

«9 

17M 

34 

34 

6S 

SI 

x8 

39 

ai 

I7t9 

3X 

33 

64 

14 

13 

a7 

X2 

1790 

36 

»3 

59 

10 

i« 

4a 

>3 

1791 

aj 

»7 

50 

11 

»3 

44 

15 

«79» 

39 

35 

74 

10 

x6 

36 

ax 

Totat    . 

aji 

»38 

489 

m 

X36 

^73 

1-39 

Ann.Arcr. 

3lf 

.95  1 

6xi 

I7f 

17 

34J 

17* 

ManitfaQures.^'^ne  xnanafa6lnrer  employs  9  looms,  in 

weaving  lawns^  and  linen  gauzes,  for  the  Iriflx  market.  There 

Vol,  XL  X  is 

^  There  are  noite  in  the  country  pvifli  i  Thde  in  the  town  are  by  far  too 
many  for  the  nomber  of  inhabitants,  and  are  hot  too  often  nurferies  of  idlenefs 
and  vice,  Whiflcy  is  what  they  chiefly  drink.  From  its  cheapneis,  the  diflt- 
pated  and  profligate  indulge  themfeWes  in  it  to  exceis,  to  the  hort,  and  fre* 
^emly  the  rnin  of  their  familiei.  Were  gofemment  to  raifc  the  daties  on  whj/iy^ 
and  Wwer  them  on  «i^,  this,  in  all  probability,  would  inereafe  the  revenue,  and 
tend  molt  cfledtually  to  promote  the  indnflry,  the  health,  and  the  moials  of  the 
peopk. 

1 1  During  the  laft  war  there  were  in  the  navy  13,  and  in  the  arm/  5,  from 
thisparift. 


1 62  Statiftical  Account 

IS  a  tannery  lately  ereded,  which  carries  on  a  good  deal  of 
bufinefs.  This  laft  year,  the  company  bought  400  hides* 
Within  thefe  3  years,  2  houfes  have  been  ereAed  for  fpinning 
cotton,  with  common  and  mule  jennies  ;  alfo  a  cotton  mill, 
on  a  fmall  fcale,  for  carding  the  cotton.  In  thefe  2  houfes 
there  are  x  a  mule  jennies,  and  16  common  ones.  The  per« 
fons  employed,  arc 

Men«  Women.        Boyift  Girls.    TouL 

ao  zx  30  6z 

Who  tarn  from       *        ->    it.  8d.  to  ai«    zod.  tmiu       6d.  to  zod. 

None  of  the  yarn  is  manufa&ared  here  into  cloth*  It  is  fold 
in  Glafgow  ^nd  Paifley.  As  long  as  this  is  the  cafe,  the  cot- 
ton manufafiure  can  never  be  carried  on  to  any  extent. 
Though  a  large  capital  be  no  doabt  necci&ry,  for  bringing 
cotton  goods  of  all  kinds  into  the  market,  it  is  not,  how- 
ever, fo  mnch  the  want  of  a  capital,  as  of  a  marker,  that 
prevents  the  manufafturers  in  this  place,  and  on  the  whole 
of  this  weft  coaft,  from  manufaAuring  their  own  cotton  yam. 
The  ceadieft,  and,  every  thing  confidered,  perhaps  the  moft 
advantageous  market  for  this  weft  country,  would  be  Ireland. 
But  fo  very  high  are  the  Irifli  duties  on  Scotch  muflins,  and 
on  every  kind  of  Scotch  goods,  in  which  there  is  (b  much  as 
a  fingle  thread  of  cotton  yarn,  as  amounts  to  a  total  prohibi- 
tion of  carrying  thefe  goods  to  the  Iriih  market.  This  gives 
the  greateft  encouragement  to  fmuggling,  and  has  alfo  made 
feveral  very  confiderable  cotton  manufadurers  leave  Glafgow, 
and  other  places  in  its  neighbourhood,  and  fettle  in  Ireland* 
At  the  fame  time,  it  is  not  a  little  furprifing,  that  Irifli  linens 
are  brought  into  Scotland  duty  free.  Does  not  this  difcover 
an  undue  partiality  in  favour  of  that  kingdom  ?'  It  is  thoughty 
that  no  lefs  than  Xoo,oool.  worth  of  Scotch  muflins,  and  other 
Scotch  cotton  goods,  would  be  annually  fold  in  the  Iriih  market, 

were 


ef  Kilwinning.  163' 

were  it  not  for  thefe  exceffivelj  high  duties.  An  objeft  of 
filch  importance  to  the  commercial  intereft  of  Scotland,  merits 
the  aioft  ferious  attention  of  the  Britifh  parliament.  Should 
the  Iriihy  upon  an  accurate  and  fair  (latement  of  the  matter, 
refofe  to  lower  the  duties  on  Scotch  cotton  goods,  it  is  hum- 
U7  fubmitted,  how  far  it  would  not  become  the  wifdom  and 
jullice  of  the  Britilh  parliament,  to  lay  a  proportionable  duty 
on  all  Iriih  linens  brought  into  Scotland. 

flax  and  Jlff//f.-»From  zi  to  14  hogflieads  otjtax  feeds  are 
IbwD  annualljr.  The  flax  is  fpun  and  manufaAured  for  the 
various  family  ufes  of  the  inhabitants.  A  very  (mail  quan- 
tity of  it  only  is  made  into  a  coarfe  kind  of  cloth,  called  ham^ 
whioh  is  brought  to  market,  and  fold  for  Ihirts  to  the  lower  • 
claffes  of  the  people.  There  is  a  flax  mill,  at  which  137 
ilones  of  flax  are  drefled  annually  ;  befides  a  waulk  or  fulling 
loil] ;  4  for  grinding  corn,  z  for  wheat,  and  a  for  barley*. 

TCbirlage. — ^A  great  part  of  the  parilh  is  thirled  to  the  Kil- 
winning mill,  called  the  ^bhey  Mill^  and  to  the  Mill  of  Seven 
AcreSf  the  property  of  Lord  Eglintoune.  Some  farms  pay 
an  exceiSvely  high  multure,  no  lefs  than  the  lath  peck.  This 
iervitnde  is  evidently  a  very  great  hindrance  to  improvement. 
It  makes  the  millers  n^ore  negligent  than  otherwife  they 
would  be.  They  know  that  the  corns  of  fnch  lands  as  are 
thirled  mnfl  be  brought  to  them,  in  whatever  carelefs,  or  even 
fraudulent  a  manner,  they  may  juftly  be  fufpeAed  of  hav- 

2^  A  ing 

*  Fifty  yeari  ago  there  were  no  \nx\ty  piills.  Inftead  of  tbefe,  sJmoft  every 
family  had  a  pretty  large  fione,  called  a  morter  done.  This  ftone  was  hollowed 
fcy  a  oialba  to  what  was  reckoned  a  proper  depth.  Into  it  wai  put  at  much 
bear  or  barley  as  could  be  eafily  wrought.  A  little  water  wai  thrown  upon  it, 
to  make  it  part  with  the  hvflci.  It  was  then  beat  with  a  large  wooden  melt,  or 
mailety  till  it  was  fit  to  be  vied  for  auking  broth. 


1 64  Statiftical  Account 

ing  done  their  duty.  Small  proprlerorsi  dierefore,  ought  cer<r 
tainlj  to  purchafe  their  thirlage,  at  almoft  any  price ;  ancl 
proprietors  of  mills  ought  to  free  their  own  lands  of  this  bur* 
den,  aod  lay  an  additional  rent  on  their  tenants,  equal  to  what 
is  paid  by  the  miU  to  which  they  are  bound.  Thirlage  being 
once  abolifhed,  and  farmers  at  liberty  to  go  where  they  pleafied 
with  their  corns,  mills  would  beerefted  in  the  moft  convenient 
parts  of  parifliesi  grain  of  conrfe  would  be  better  gromidg 
and  at  a  much  lower  rate,  and  a  great  deal  of  time  and  labour 
would  be  faved  to  the  fisirmer. 

FueL — ^The  mofles  in  die  pariih  are,  the  Mofs  MvHoch^ 
the  Jucbenmodi  and  Auehtniyhir  Mojfis.  This  lad  mofs  is 
fuppofed  to  contain  more  than  200  acres.  In  fome  parts  of  it, 
it  is  ver/  deep,  no  lets  than  from  z  a  to  16  feet.  It  produces 
very  good  peats.  When  the  fnmmer  is  dry,  tfaefe  make  ex* 
cellcLt  firing,  and  are  nfed  as  fncfa  by  the  neighbouring  fitrmr 
ers.  But  the  ufnal  and  common  fuel  of  the  inhabitants  19 
coals.  In  no  parifli,  perhaps,  in  Scotland,  is  there  coal  in 
greater  plenty,  or  of  a  better  quality,  than  in  this  pariih.  Very 
lately,  however,  the  price  of  coals  has  been  raifed  ezceffively 
high.  A  load  of  coals,  8  loads  to  the  ton,  which,  50  years 
ago,  coft  from  3d.  to  4d.  at  die  cool  pit,  is  now  8d. ;  and  the 
probability,  at  prefent,  is,  that  it  will  be  advanced  to  a  ftiU 
higher  price.  Tliia  fcarcity  and  dearnefs  of  coals  is  owing 
entirely  to  their  not  being  wrought.  Not  to  mention  the  in- 
humanity of  fuch  a  conduft  to  the  deftitute  poor,  proprietors 
of  coals  certainly  mifiake  their  own  interefi,  in  fuffering  them 
to  remain  unwrought.  An  additional  rife  on  coal,  is  to  them, 
when  properly  confidered,  a  very  trifling  objed,  compared 
Tvith  the  rife  of  the  rents  of  their  lands  ;  and  this  can  be  e£. 
feded  only  by  the  improvements  in  agricultuie,  and  the  in- 
creafe  of  trade  and  nanufaAures.    But  it  is  a  fed  univerlally 

acknowledged. 


of  Kihoinning.  i6g 

icknowkdgcd,  that  few,  if  any,  real  improvements  in  agri. 
culture  can  be  made,  and  that  trade  and  manufadures  cannot 
be  extended  to  anj  great  and  permanent  degree,  without  cheap 
fncL  Influenced,  then,  by  a  fenfe  of  their  own  itrtereft,  let 
proprietors  immediately  work  their  own  coals,  and,  at  the 
Ikiiie  time,  lower  the  price  of  them.  This  will  induce  &rmei9, 
manafadurers  and  tradefmen,  to  leave  thofe  places  in  which 
firing  is  fcarce  and  dear,  and  fettle  in  this  parifh. 

Pmt.^— There  are  at  prefeat  on  the  poor's  roll  36  perfons, 
who  receive  from  as.  to  53.  per  month.  Befides  thefe,  a 
joung  men,  fatuous,  are  maintained  at  the  rate  of  8s.  8d* 
»  month,  each*  The  annual  amount  of  thefe  penfions  is  55L 
Siftribntion  is  $dfo  madoi  occafionally,  to  other  poor  fick 
perfoos,  not  on  the  penfion  lift  ;  and  even  to  thofe  penfioners, 
wbofe  circumftances  require  additional  fupply,  to  the  average 
f am,  yearly,  of  i8l.    The  following  is  a  ftate  of  the  funds. 

Tbe  weekly  colle&bns,  at  a  medium,  amount  to  ;£.  30  o  o 
Mortdodis  at  funerals,  -*  -  ^  *  690 
Procbmations  for  marriages,        «  -  *        i  29    o 

Rents  of  fieats  in  the  church,  «  -  «  3  9  o 
Private  charities,  fome  years,  have  amounted  to   •  10    o    o 

As  thefe,  however,  are  lb  liable  to  be  withheld, 
they  cannot  be  confidered  as  making  any  part  of  a 
permanent  fund  for  the  fupport  of  tbe  poor. 
The  intereft  of  1481.  at  3  per  cent.        •  «         780 

%  farma^,  the  property  of  the  poor,  bring  at  pre. 

fent  a  yearly  rent  of  •  -  30    a    o 

Total,         ;C.  89     4     o 

There 

«  One  of  ibde  itfm»i  oUed  th«  Woaooaaav,  ii  foppsM  to  contain  «p- 

wardf 


1 66  Statiftical  Acccount 

There  are  3  charitable  focieties  belongiog  to  the  parlili. 
When  any  of  their  members,  from  (ickoefs  or  age,  are    on- 
abk  to  'work,  they  are  regularly,  and  even  liberally  fupported 
by  thefc  focieties.     At  prefent,  there  are  only  3  beggars  in 
the  pariih ;  but  the  inhabitants  are  greatly  oppreffed  with 
beggars  from  other  parifhes,  and  even  with  feveral  from  Ire« 
land.    The  nomber  of  poor  has,  of  late  years,  very  much  in* 
creafed,  and  is  flill  on  the  increale.     From  the  very  advanced 
wages  of  the  manufaduring  and  labouring  people  of  every 
defcription,  and  from  the  idlenefs,  the  diffipation  and  profli- 
gacy of  manners,  the  ufual,  and,  indeed,  the  almoft  infepar- 
aUe  confequences  of  very  high  wages,  it  is  next  to  an  abfolote 
certainty,  that  the  poor,  in  a  few  years,  will  increafe  in  a 
proportion  hitherto  unknown  in  Scotland.     The  common  and 
ordinary  funds,  particularly  in  populous  manufaduring  pa* 
riflies,  will  be  unable  to  fupport  them.     In  thefe  parifliea  the 
poor's  funds,  from  many  very  obvious  caufes,  are,  for  fooM 
years  paft,  greatly  diminiflied.    One  very  general  and  prin- 
cipal caufe  of  this  decreafe  is,  that  MEN  of  ravk  and  for* 
TUNIS  are  very  irregular,  and  even  crimisuilfy  ntgltgcnU  in  their 
attendance  upon  divine  fervice  on  the  Sabbath.   This  condud, 
however  fafhionabki  is  not  only  difrefpe£kful  to  religioo,  dif- 

graceful 

wardf  of  80  acres,  all  araUe,  of  aa  excellent  improveaUe  foily'and  lying  within 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  the  town.  Were  it  out  of  leafe,  it  would  bring,  at  leail, 
a  yearly  rent  of  80I.  to  the  poor.  In  Z743,  the  immediate  predeccflbr  of  tlie 
jprefent  incumbent  let  it  for  the  very  loag  period  of  76  years,  at  the  extremely 
low  rent  of  12I.  The  tienant  alfo  pays  1  boUt  and  6  pecks  of  meal  yearly  to 
the  pariih  minifter,  and  the  half  o£  the  cefs  and  fchodmafierVialary.  This 
^lery  extraordinary  length  of  a  leafe  was  thought,  by  many,  to  be  beyond  tfie 
powers  of  the  minifter  and  fefion  to  grant.  By  the  advice  of  a  lawyer,  of  the 
very  firft  charader  for  profcfConal  knowledge  and  abilities,  the  prefent  incom* 
hent,  with  the  concurrence  of  the  feflion  and  principal  heritors,  commenced  a 
proccfs  of  redttftion  before  the  Court  of  Sefllon.  The  Coart,  however,  gave  a 
^efitUHfifattttue  agai^ft  tbt  pHr^  and  in  f^^voor  of  the  teumt*  . 


of  Kilwinning.  167 

gracefol  to  the  laws  of  jtheir  coantrj,  and  peraicious  in  the 
highefl.  degree  to  die  morals  of  the  people  at  large,  but  muft 
eveotaallj  bring,  upon  tbem/ehes,  aiTeflcnsnts,  or  poor's  rattSm 
Of  all  the  taxes  impofed  on  the  people  of  England,  this  is  one 
of  the  moft  oppreffive,  and  ruinous  to  the  profperitj  and  im- 
provement of  their  country.  In  England,  the  poor's  rates  are 
lapidly  increafing  to  the  enormous  fum  of  three  millions 
STKiiLiva  yearly  !  An  evil  of  fuch  magnitude  ought  moH 
anxiouflj  to  be  guarded  againft,  and,  if  poffible,  to  be  pre- 
vented bj  every  clafs  of  men  in  Scotland,  and,  in  particular, 
by  the  landed  interefi.  To  render  this  tax  unneceflary,  or,  at 
all  events,  to  leflen  it,  (hould  it  be  found  impolfible  to  be  al- 
together prevented,  every  man  of  property,  once  a  year,  or 
oftener  if  neceflary,  ought  regularly  to  fend  the  amount  of 
his  weekly  charity  to  his  own  parifli  church  \  and  to  every 
other  pariih,  a  fum  proportioned  to  the  property  he  hoh)s  in 
that  parifh. 

EccUfiaftical  State. — ^There  is  at  prefent  but  one  clergyman, 
the  miniiier  of  the  Eftabliihed  Church.  An  Antiburgher 
ndnifter,  ordained  in  176a,  died  about  3  months  ago.  The 
ftipend  was  augmented  in  1786.  The  living  is  now  worth 
140].,  beiidcs  a  glebe  of  between  4  and  5  acres,  and  a  very 
excellent  manfe,  built  in  X773.  The  church  is  a  very  beauti- 
ful ftrufiure,  built  partly  in  the  ancient  Gothic  tafte,  to  cone- 
fpond  to  the  venerable  ruins  of  the  monaftery*  But  though 
it  be  almoft  ao  years  (ince  it  was  built,  it  has  never  been 
ieated.  This  has  been  owing  to  an  unhappy  difference  of 
opinion  among  the  heritors  about  the  divifion  of  the  area  of 
the  church,  and  which  is  ftill  unfcttled*  The  Earl  of  Eglin- 
TOUNE  is  patron  of  the  pariih.    - 

6  Scbools. 


t6d  Staii/Hcal  JccottHt 

Schooli^^^Tht  faiaiy  of  the  parilh  lehoolmaftor  is  9!.    g^^ 
This,  with  the  ichool  fees  and  other  emdiiments,  makes  the 
office  of  fchoolmafler  worth  about  251.  a  jea^.     There  is  a 
fchoolJionfe,  but  no  houfe  for  the  fchDolmafter.    Engliih, 
ivritiiig,  arithmetic,  imd  book4ceeping,  with  the  Latin,  Greek» 
and  French  languages,  are  taught  in  the  parifli  fcbool.  There 
are  al£b  a  other  fchools  in  the  town,  and  a  in  the  country  psrt 
of  the  parifli,  inteiided  chiefly  for  teaching  Englifli  and  writ« 
ing.    The  edticatioo  of  youth  is  indifputably  of  the  very  ut-J 
moft  importance  to  the  reUgbus  and  civil  intereft;i  of  fociety  • 
No  clafs  of  mta,  therefore,  can  be  of  more  (if  indeed  of 
equal)  conlequence  and  utility,  dian  parifli  {choolmafters.  But, 
So  the  difgrace  of  an  enlightened  and  liberal  age,  thefie  men 
have  been  moft  amaxmgly  neglefied.    Their  fidarics,  when 
originally  fixed  in  Scotland,  bore  a  reafonabie  proportion  tcf 
the  value  of  money,  and  to  the  price  of  labour  and  provi-s 
fions.    Even  then,  however,  it  was  only  by  the  greateft  at«« 
tention,  and  the  moft  rigid  economy,  that  they  were  enabled 
to  live  with  any  kind  of  decency,  and  fecure  that  degree  of 
refpeA  To  abfolutely  neceffaiy  to  their  nfefulneis.    For  many 
years  after  that  period,  parifli  fchools  were  filled  with  men 
highly  refpeftable  for  their  exemplary  lives,  and  for  their  fu- 
perior  parts  and  learning.    Hence  that  tafte  for  literature, 
that  general  knowledge,  for  which  the  Scotch  were  fo  deferv* 
edly  celebrated,  whilft  the  great  mals  of  the  people  of  the  other 
nations  of  Europe  were  funk  in  the  moft  favage  ignorance. 
Since  that  time,   the  mode  of  living  is  entirely  changed. 
Every  article  of  drefs,  provifions  and  houfehold  furniture  is 
rifen  to  a  degree  almoft  incredible ;  and  a  fltilliog,  in  real  va- 
lue, is  worth  little  more  than  a  penny  was  then.     For  thefe 
reafons,  the  Salaries  of  the  judges  in  Scotland,  and  the  livings 
of  the  greater  part  of  the  clergy,  have  been  confiderably  in- 
creafed  $  but  no  addition  whatever  has  been  made  to  the  (a- 

laries 


of  Kilwinning.  1 69 

Uries  of  parifh  fchoolmafters.  A  common  tradefman,  or  day 
labourer,  if  fober  and  induftrious,  will  earn  a  great  deal  more 
than  the  generality  of  fchoolmafters  can  poffiWy  do.  Is  it  to  be 
imagined,  that  a  man  having  any  thing  like  a  liberal  education, 
and,  in  other  refpeds,  of  an  unblemifhed  cli  a  racier,  will  en- 
gage in  an  o£Eice,  the  duties  >of  which  are  fo  extremely  labo- 
rious, for  the  miferably  narrow,  fcanty  pittance  at  prefent 
amiexed  to  it  ?  Should  trade  and  commerce  make  the  fame 
rapid  and  cxtenfive  progrefs,  which  of  late  ihey  ha^  done, 
parifli  fchools,  it  is  to  be  feared,  will  be  filled  with  perfons 
tvretchedly  ignorant,  or  of  grofsly  indecent  and  immoral 
lives.  The  confequenctfs  of  this,  to  the  riling  generation,  are 
too  painful  to  be  dwelt  upon.  Some  evils,  in  order  to  be  ro. 
dreflcdy  need  only  to  be  mentioned.  A  fenfe  of  duty,  and  genu- 
ine patriotifm,  it  islioped,  will  ftrongly  and  efL^liially  impel 
parents,  and  the  friends  of  humanity  and  virtue,  to  unite  ia 
applying  to  the  legiilacure,  to  make  a  tar  more  decent  and 
comfortable  proviEon  tor  pariib  fchoolmafters,  than  is  done^t 
prefent. 

Monaflery* — This  monaftcry  was  founded  in  the  year  1140, 
by  HucHDG  MoR£ViLLE,  a  very  opulent  and  powerful  baron, 
Lord  of  Cunninghame,  and  Lord  High  Ccnftable  of  Scotland. 
It  was  dedicated  to  St.  Winning.  The  monks  were  brought 
from  Kelfo*. — In  1360,  Alexander  £ari  of  Glencaikn, 

Vol.  XL  Y  one 

•  They  were  cailcd  Tyronenfej^  from  Tyron,  in  the  diocefc  chartrcs.  There, 
RoiKOU^,  Earl  of  Ferche  and  AlBriagne^  gave  a  Ictikmcnt  to  St.  Beknakd, 
ihcir  Crft  abbot*  From  him  they,  as  well  as  the  Ci/lertiaitt,  were  called  Ber- 
ffAAOiNZS.  They  followed  the  rule  of  St.  Cenedict,  or  Bcnnet,  but  reformed 
acd  enlar^^ed  by  St.  Bernard.  K<n{;  Robeiit  I.  gav^  to  this  monaflcty  the  lands 
of  YisWAUd  Jwxta  hurgitm  lie  Jrvine  ;  as  alTo  •viginti  fotiJos^  quot  aMffuatim  de  terra  fua 
^  K:Iasernecb  LereMut  dt  Bal'tolo  reddere  fclcbant,  JoiIAI^NES  dc  MeneTHETH 
i)ouitiM%  de  Akxah  tf  de  KnaFDai-E^  grants  to  the  cioLlis  of  this  abbcy>//a- 


1 70  Statiftical  Account 

ODt  of  the  moil  diftinguifhed  and  active  promoters  of  the  Re- 
forroation«  in  confequrnce  of  an  order  from  the  States  of  Scot- 
land, in  a  great  meafure  demoliihed  this  venerable  and  magni- 
ficent monaftery*.  The  only  entire  ruins  of  the  abbey,  novr 
remaining,  are  a  fteeple  and  gable.  Thefe  were  lately  re- 
paired*  at  a  very  confiderable  expence,  by  the  prefent  Earl  of 
Eglintoune. 

Mafonry. — It  is  the  remark  of  a  hiftoriao,  that  from  about 
tlie  beginning  to  the  middle  of  the  X2th  century »  the  woribip 

of 


\  fronaiut  et  advocatiMih  ttcUparwm  SmBs  MarU,  ei  ScnB^  Brtgeiey  infitU  de  Arrmm^ 

tumfutt  cafeUU  et  UrrU,  The  charter  i»  given  at  KilwinDing,  the  lath  of  OAo- 
ber  1357.  In  the  r  igs  of  Robert  III.,  Sir  fViUiam  CuHmrm^Ume  •/  Xilmares, 
*'  for  the  health  of  his  ov^nfitU,  and  for  the  fouls  of  ht»  emceftws^  g^^c,  in  pure 
*  alms,  Co  the  mcnka  of  this  abbey,  the  laods  of  Grange.**  In  Z538,  died 
James  Bithude,  Archbifhop  of  Glafgow,  and  Commeodator  of  Kilwinning. 
He  wa«  fuccecdcd,  as  Abbot  of  Kilwinning,  by  Gavin  Hamilton,  the  laft 
Popilh  abbot  of  this  place.  Abbot  Hamilton  was  a  firm  and  zealovs  friend  of 
the  Queen  Regent,  and  of  her  beautiful  but  unfortunate  daughter.  Queen 
A/Iaet  ;  and  was  employed  by  them  in  fcveral  very  important  negotiations. 
He  Was  killed  in  the  Canongate  of  Edinburgh,  June  aSth  ZJ71.  In  the  year 
X552,  he  made  Huob,  Earl  of  Eclintouke,  jufiiciary,  chamberlain,  and  bailie 
of  Kilwinning,  and  gave  him  a  confiderable  faiary  for  difchaiging  tbeie  oi&cea. 
This  grant  was  confirmed  by  the  Queen  t« 

*  The  above  Earl  of  Glbncaieii  obtained  a  grant  of  the  abbey,  and  made 
fci«  fon  ALEZANOta  commeodator  of  it.  To  him  fucceeded  William  Mkl* 
viLLE,  of  the  family  of  Raith.  On  his  refignation,  January  5th  X603,  Hugh 
Earl  of  Eglintoune  got  a  new  grant  of  the  abbey,  with  all  the  lands,  and  titles, 
and  patronage  of  the  churches  at  that  time  belonging  to  it,  erefted  into  a  tem^ 
poral  lordihip.  At  the  Reformation,  the  revenue  of  the  monallery,  exdufive  cf 
the  property  lands,  amounted  to  840I.  3s.  4d.  Scotch,  8  bolls  of  wheat,  14  chal- 
dcrs  I  boll  and  15  pecks  of  bear,  67  chaldcrs  of  oatmeal,  13  ftirks,  Z40  capons, 
xcc  hens,  268  checfes,and  9  fathom  of  a  pe;tt  ftack.  According  to  the  tradition- 
try  account  of  the  entire  revenue  of  the  monajftcry,  it  ia  aflcrtcd*  that  ita  prcieo^ 

f  StipuhUc  ret9rdt,  2ift  ho$h,  chari*  7f* 


of  JGlwinntng*  171 

t>f  Gob,  in  Scotland,^  was,  in  a  great  meafare,  laid  afide,  ot 
could  with  the  greateft  dif&cuUj  be  performed,  on  account  of 
the  noife  of  the  hammers  and  trowels,  which  were  employed 
in  erefting  monafteries  and  other  religious  houfes.     It  was 
during   this  period  that  a  number  of  mafons  came  from  the 
Continent  to  build  this  monafter j,  and  with  them  an  archite£t 
or  matter  mafon,  to  fuperint^nd  and  carry  on  the  work.   This 
archtteft  refided  at  Kilwinning ;  and  being  a  gude  and  true 
inafon,  intimately  acquainted  with  all  the  parts  of.  mafonry 
known  on  the  Continent,  was  chofen  mailer  of  the  meetings 
of  the  brethren  all  over  Scotland.   He  gave  rules  for  the  con- 
dud  of  the  brethren  at  thefe  meetings,  and  decided  finally  in 
appeals  from  all. the  other  meetings  or  lodges  in  Scotland. 
From  this  time,  down  to  the  15th  century,  very  little  of  ma- 
fonry can  be  known,  with  any  degree  of  certainty ;  ,only  it  is 
£iid,  that  at  Kilwinning  the  head  meeting  of  the  brethren  was 
held.     King  James  I^   of  Scotland,  eminently  diftinguifkcd^ 
for  his  knowledge  and  tafle  in  polite  literatare,  and  in  the  fine 
arts,  not  long  after  his  return  from  England,  patronized  the 
mother  lodge  of  Kilwinning  ;  and  prefided  as  grand  mailer,, 
till  he  fettled  an  annual  falary,  to  be  paid  by  every  mailer 
mafon  of  Scotland,  to  a  grand  mailer,  chofen  by  the  brethren, 
and  approved  by  the  crown.     This  grand  mailer  was  to  be 
nobly  born,  or  a  clergyman  of  high  rank  and  charader.     He 
had  his  deputies  in  the  different  counties  and  towns  of  Scot- 
land.    Every  new  brother  paid  him  a  fee  at  entrance.     As 

Y  a  grand 

«ii]i«al  atnonnt  would  be  at  lesift  ao,oooL  Sterling  *.  This  fuppofitioD  feems  to 
be  pretty  well  founded,  from  the  following  number  of  chu'che«.,  w  ich  are  welL 
known  to  have  held  of  it :  Kiiwinning,  Irvine,  Kilmarnock,  Loudon,  or  New 
MilU,  ArdroiTan,  Kilbtrney,  Kilbride,  Bfith,  Dunlop,  Dreghorn,  Dairy,  Ste- 
▼enftown,  and  Stewartown;  (all  thefe  chuiches  are  in  Cunninghame) ;  Kihna- 
roDOck  and  Dombarton,  in  Dambartonfliire ;  South  and  North  Koapdale^  la 
the  ibirc of  Argyll;  and  Siliaory  and  Kilbride,  ia  the  Ifland  o(  Arran. 


172  Stati/iical  Account 

grand  mailer,  he  was  empowered  to  regulate  and- determine 
every  matter  in  difpute,  between  the  founders  and  builders  of 
churches  and  monafteries,  and  which  it  would  hare  been  im« 
proper  to  have  decided  bj  a  court  of  law.  King  James  11. 
conferred  the  oiRce  of  grand  mafter'on  William  Sikclair, 
Earl  of  Orkney  and  Baron  of  Rosltk.  By  another  deed  of 
the  fame  king,  this  office  was  made  hereditary  in  this  very 
ancient  and  ijluftrious  family*  Earl  William,  and  his  fuccef- 
fors,  barons  of  Roflin,  held  their  head  courts,  or,  in  the  ttjle^ 
of  mafonry,  aflembled  their  Grand  Lo2>ges,  at  Kilwinning, 
as  being  the  mother  lodge,  or  the  place  where  regular  and 
ftated  lodges^  had  firft  been  held  in  Scotland.  The  fobriety 
and  decency  of  the  brethren  in  all  their  meetings,  the  very 
peculiar  and  diftlnguifhing  union  and  harmony,  in  which  they 
lived  together,  and  their  humanity  and  liberality  to  the  fick 
and  indigent,  made  the  mother  lodge  highly  refpected  in  the 
l6<h  century.  An  uncommon  fpirit  for  mafonry  |h«n  difco- 
vered  itfclf.  Laws,  founded  on  the  original  a£ls  nnd  conilitu- 
tlons  of  the  mother  lodge,  were  renewed,  and  are  flill  inva- 
riably adhered  to.  Ttiis  is  evident  from  her  records  ilill 
extant*, 

Archery. — It  is  well  known,  that  in  former  times,  the  bow 
and  arrow  were  ufed  in  war  throughout  the  whole  of  Europe. 
By  one  or  more  of  the  old  acls  of  the  Scotch  parliament,  the 

*  young 

♦  Thcfc  records  Contain  a  fucctffion  of  grand  niafters,  charters  of  ereSion  to 
other  lodges,  as  daughters  of  the  mother  lodge,  &c.  The  Earls  of  Eglin- 
tounc  have  fucccffively  patronized  this  lodge.  Some  y<;ar8  ago,  the-prefcnt 
£ari  made  a  donatioir  to  the  fraternity  of  a  piece  of  ground,  for  building  a  new 
and  very  elegant  lodge  ;  and,  with  many  other  gentlemen,  anxious  to  prcfervc 
the  rights  of  the  vciy  ancient  and  venerable  mother  lodge,  liberally  contributed 
to  its  erection.  There  is  a  common  fcal,  cxprcfGvc  of  the  antiquity  of  the  nlo- 
iher  lodjre,  and  of  the  emblems  of  the  ancient  art  of  mafortry,  and  by  ivhick 
charters,  and  til  other  public  deeds  of  the  Ibciet/,  are  ratified* 


of  Kilwinning.  173 

rrang  men  in  every  pari(b  were  ftricUj  commanded  to  prac* 
fee  archery,  for  an  hour  or  two,  evfrj^  Sunday  a/ief  divine 
iroice^     After  the  invention  of  fire  arms,  archery  wa»  laid 
side,  as  no  longer  ufeful  and  neceiTary  in  war.     Though  for 
this  reafon  it  was  difufed  in  moft  other  places  in  Scotland*  it 
\%%  been  prafiifed  here,  as  an  elegant  and  manly  amufemeut, 
almoft  without  any  interruption*  to  the  prefent  day.     At  the 
iame  time*  the  laws  and  ufages  of  the  Company,  (the  term 
afcd  for  the  Society),  are  known*  and  that  too  very  imperfeft- 
Ij*  onl^  by  tradition,  prior  to  the  year  1488,     This  dale  is 
acknowledged  and  rendered  authentic*  by  a  minute  in  the  re^ 
cords,  dated  September  1688.  This  minute  is  figned  by  a  num^ 
ber  of  gentlemen  of  the  moft  refpedable  chara£lers»    From  this 
time,  .archery  has  been  praftifed  annually*  at  a  certain  ftatcd 
time  of  the  year,  generally  in  the  month  of  June.     What 
has  contributed,  perhaps  more  than  any  thing,  to  its  continn* 
ance,  has  been  the  monaftery.     This  fuppolition  is  rendered 
highly  probable,  from  the  fpecies  of  archery  in  ufo  h^re  from 
time  immemoriah     It  is  of  two  kinds.     The  one  is  a  per- 
pendicular mark,  called  a  popingoe*     The  popingoe  is  a  bird 
known  in  heraldry.     It  is,  on  this  occafion,  <:ut  out  in  wood^ 
fixed  in  the  end  of  a  pole,  and  placed  X20  feet  high,  on  the 
fteeple  of  the  monaftery.     The  archer,  who  (hoots  down  this 
mirk,  is  honoured  with  the  title  of  Captain  of  the  Popingoe. 
He  is  mailer  of  the  ceremonies  of  the  fucceeding  year,  fends 
cards  of  invitation  to  the  hdies,  gives  them  a  ball  and  fupper* 
and  tranfmits  his  honours  to  pofterity  by  a  medal,  with  fuit* 
able  devices*  appended  to  a  Giver  arrow.     The  prize,  from 
1488  to  1688*  was  a  (afli*  or,  as  it  was  called,  a  benn.     This 
was  a  piece  of  taffeta  or  Perfian,  of  different  colours,  chiefly  red* 
green,  white  and  blue,  and  not  lefs  in  value  than  2cl.  Scotch, 
This  honourable  badge  was  worn  by  the  captain*  which  he  kept* 

and 
1 


174  Statifiicd  Account 

and  produced  another  of  equal  value  the  following  year.  At 
the  revival  of  archery  in  1688,  there  was  fubftituted  a  piece  of 
plate,  which  continued  to  be  given  by  every  captain  till  1723. 
The  prize  was  then  converted  into  the  prcfcnt  filver  arrow. 
•^The  other  kind  of  (hooting,  is  for  prizes  at  butts,  points 
blank  diftance,  (about  26  yards.)  The  prize  at  butts,  is  fome 
ufefiil  or  ornamental  piece  of  plate,  given  annually  to  the 
fociety  by  the  fenior  furviving  archer. 

Eminent  Mai.— Eglintoune  Gaftle,  the  feat  of  the  family 
of  Eglintoune  for  upwards  of  400  years,  is  in  the  parifli* 
Of  the  men  of  this  family,  eminently  remarkable  for  their 
patriotifm,  their  loyalty,  their  high  fenfe  of  honour,  and  dif- 
Unguiihed  abilities  in  peace  and  war,  the  two  following  only 
fliall  be  mentioned.  At  the  battle  of  Octerburn,  Sir  Johk 
MoNTGOM£.Ri£,  married  to  the  heirefs  of  Eglintoune,  and 
niece  to  King  Robert  II,,  had  the  command  of  part  of  the 
Scotch  afmy  under  the  brave  Earl  of  Douglas  ;  and  his  per- 
fonal  valour  and  military  condud  contributed  not  a  little  to 
the  celebrated  vidorj  obtaii.ed  over  the  Englilh.  The  re- 
nowned  Henry  Perot,  well  known  by  the  name  of  Hotjpur^ 
and  general  of  the  Englifli  army.  Sir  John  Montgomerie  took 
prlfoner  with  his  own  hands,  and  with  his  ranfom  built  the 
cafile  of  Punnoon,  in  Renfn  wihire. — All  the  valuable  im- 
provements in  gardening,  planting,  and  agriculture,  which, 
within  thefe  50  years,  have  been  made  in  the  pariib,  and  in- 
deed in  the  greater  part  of  the  county  of  Ayr,  are  owing  in 
a  great  meafure  to  the  uncommonly  fpirited  exertions,  to  the 
very  refined  and  corre^  tafte,  of  Alexamber,  the  late  Earl 
of  Eglintoune.  By  minute  and  accurate  inquiry  and  obfer- 
vation,  he  made  himfelf  acquainted  with  the  ftate  of  Englifli 
agriculture,  with  the  truly  noble  and  generous  defign  ofbe^ 
fiefiting  his  native  country.     Deeply  regretting  the  idlenels, 

tht 


of  Kilwinning.  1 75 

die  lazinels  and  the  poverty  of  the  farmers,  and  the  very  igno- 
nntand  abfurd  nianner  in  which  thej  cultivated  their  lands,  his 
Lordfhipt  at    a  great  expence,  engaged   and   brought  to  his 
e&ates  ia  the  parifh,  and  other  parts  of  the  county ,  men  of 
real  knowledge  and  experience  in  agrtcuhure,  who  had  been 
regularly    bred  to  it,  and  who  had  long  lucce&fuUy  praftifed 
it.    By  the  converfation  and  example  of  thefe  pra&ical  im- 
proyers,  the   people,  roufed  from  their  former  torpid  ftate, 
YCDtured  to   deviate  from  the  mode  of  management  handed 
down   by  their  forefathers ;    and,    convinced  at  lait,  of  tho 
infinitely  fuperior  advantages  of  this  new  fyilem  of  hufbandry, 
bj  degrees  adopted  it.     His  Lordihip  alfo  inflituted  an  agru 
cultural  Jociety^  confining  of  the  moil  adive,  intelligent,  and 
refpedable   farmers.     In  this   fociety  he  prefided  for  feveral 
years.  By  communicating  fuch  obfei  vations  as  were  the  effeds 
cf  his  own  experience,  and  fuch  as  he  had  coUefted  in  con^ 
Tcrfing  with  men  of  knowledge,  his  Lordihip  excited  and  dif« 
fuCed  a  keen  and  enterphfing  fpirit  of  induftry  and  experi- 
ment ;  the  very  happy  effe&s  of  which,  in  the  improvement 
and  wealth  of  the  country,  had  little  more  than  appeared, 
when  he  died  by  the  hands  of  an  unprincipled  and  mercilefs 
tiTiffin.    His  Lordihip's  farm  of  Eglintoune,  with  the  planta* 
tioos,  contains  about  aooo  acres  Scotch  meafure.     The  whole 
is  planned  and  executed,  with  fuch  an  exquifitely  fine  tafte, 
AS  to  render  the  ancient  feat  of  the  family,  one  of  the  nobletb 
aod  mod  beautiful  of  any  in  ikotland.     To  the  patriotic  ex* 
ertloos  of  this  truly  great  man,  his  country  chiefly  owes  the 
ad  of  parliament,  which  aboliihed  what  was  called  the  optional 
doufi  of  the  Scotch  banks.     By  the  aboVe  claufe,  the  banks 
liad  it  in  their  power,  to  refufe  payment  of  their  notes,  for  no 
kfs  than  Jix  months  after  it  had  been  demanded.     This  cer- 
uiiily  was  a  very  great  national  grievance,  and  had  it  continued, 
Scodand  could  never  have  made  the  improvementS|  which  it 

has 


176  Stat'i/lical  Account 

has  done,  in  agriculturey  in  commerce,  and  in  msnufaftnres. 
Sincere  and  fteady  in  his  friendthips,  humane  and  generous, 
the  patron  of  unfortunate  merit,  of  the  moft  pohflied  and 
agreeable  manners,  and  pbflefled  of  all  the  more  amiable  and 
efpeAaole  virtues,  the  death  of  the  late  Earl  of  Eglintoune 
will  be  long  and  painfully  regretted  by  every  good  man,  by 
every  friend  of  humanity,  and  of  hi&  country*. 

Names  of  P/orr^i— Not  a  few  of  thefe,  it  is  faid,  are  ori- 
ginally Gaelic ;  ll'ch  ns,  Auchentncuie^  Auchentyhtr^  Auchen^ 
wnjie^  Aucbenfarvie^  iSc.  Other  names  are  evidently  Englifh. 
or  thefe,  fome  are  delcriptive  of  their  particular  fitoations, 
as  IVoodf  JVcod'Jtde,  Wood^end.  Tradition  fays,  that  in  thefe 
places,  there  was  in  foriner  time^  a  very  eztenfive  wood;  but 
there  is  not  the  lead  veftige  of  it  now  remaining.  Other 
names  defcribe  their  ancient  proprietors ;  as  SmitVi^towa^ 
Ft^rgus^biU-ball^  \Sc. 

Wit  ttnd  Cold  Summers.*^\t  is  in  the  recolledion  of  many 
flill  living,  that  the  fummers,  in  this  pan  of  the  country  at 
leaft,  are  now  much  more  wet  and  cold  than  they  were  50 
years  ago.  By  men  of  undoubted  veracity  it  is  alTerced,  as 
an  abfolutely  certain  faA,  that,  at  that  period,  the  farmers, 
in  plowing  for  bear,  about  the  middle  of  the  month  of  May, 
were  under  the  neccflSiy  of  beginning  to  plow  fo  very  early 
as  at  3  o'clock  in  the  morning  and  to  leave  off  at  8.  The 
beat,  at  that  hour,  became  fo  very  intenfe,  that  it  was  impoiV 
fible  for  them  to  continue  their  work  any  longer :  Nor  could 
^hey  begin  again  till  between  4  and  5  o'clock  in  the  afternoon. 

For 

*  Cui  pi' dor,  et  juftitix  foror 
Tncorrupta  fide«,  nudaque  Veritas, 
Multii  ilk  bonis  flcbilit  occidit. 


of  kiltmnning.  1 77 

For  a  number  of  years  paft,  quite  the  reverfe  has  been  the 
cafe.  The  month  of  Nfajr,  in  particular,  has  been  Very  cold 
and  wet,  and  unfavourable  to  vegetation ;  and,  infome  yearst 
we  have  had  very  little  of  what  may  be  reckoned  fummer 
wiatber.  Tbp  barvpft  of  courfe,  then,  w^  aiuch  earlier  than 
it  has  been  fince.  In  Several  places  in  the  neighbourhood,  it 
is  bUt  rift  h^veft  was  finilhed  about  the  latter  pnd.of  An^oft. 
The  fafts  themfelve^  are  here  barely  ftated :  The  phyfical 
caufes  of  fo  very  rem'ar£able  a  change  are  left  to  be  accOtint<^d' 
for  by  others. 

Ciara^er  p/  ibf  P^o^if— The  people  arr,  iij  ^eneralf  "^^7 
decent,  fober,  honeft  and  induftriotts.  Owing  to  t^e  iilk.  and 
muiiin  manufaAures,  feveral  ftrangers,  of  late,  have  fettled 
in  the  town.  What  effe&s  thefe,  in  time,  may  have,  on  the 
morals  of  the  people,  cannot  as  yet  be  faid.  Though  the  only 
civil  officer  in  the  place  be  a  conffable,'  there  are  fewer  riots 
conunitted,  than  in  moll  othej:  places  equally  populous  and 
extenfive.  It  is  now  upwards  of  2 a  years  iince  the  prefent 
incumbent  was  ordained,  during  which  time  no  inhabitai^  of 
die  parilh  has  beeh  banilhedy  or  fuffered  a  capital  puniifament. 


V0L23.  t  NUK. 


178  Stattftkal  Account 


NUMBER    XT. 


PARISH   OF    COMRIE. 

(County  of  Perth — Prejhytiry  of  Auchttrarder^^ynoi  of* 
Perth  and  Stirling.) 


Drawn  up  hy  the  Rev.  Mr.  Colik  Baxter,  Minifier  of  Mo^ 
nivaird^  from  Materials  chiefly  colkSed  by  the  ReVn  Mn 
Hugh  M'Diarme^,  Minifler  ofComrie. 


Origin  of  the  Name* 

THIS  parifli  takes  its  name  from  the  village  of  Comrh, 
in  vuYxxch  the  church  ftands.  Gompe  is  derived  &091 
the  Gaelic,  Comb^ruidh^  which  iignifies  the  con^uence  of  two 
rivers.  Thefe  are  the  Erne^  and  the  Ruchil^  which  join  their 
fireams  a  few  yards  to  the  weftward  of  the  chnrch,  and  flow  ia 
one  body,  till  they  fall  into  the  Taj.  There  is  another  pa- 
rifli,  called  TuIlichetU^  united  to  Comrie»  The  foundation  of 
the  church,  whieh  is  ftill  vifible,  is  furrounded  by  a  pretty 
large  church-yard,  and  is  diftant  from  the  village  of  Gomrie 
about  a  Scotch  mile.  Tullichettl^  in  allulion  to  the  dead 
buried  there,  fignifies  in  Gaelic,  the  plain  ofjleep. 

Extent.<^The  extent  of  this  parlih  is  very  confiderable, 
being  about  13  miles  long,  and  between  9  and  10  broad.    It 

confifis 


of  Comric.  1 79 

^oofifis  of  the  ftrathi  ox  fiat  ground^  from  Gomrie  to  Locberne* 
bead,  ood  of  4  glens  ;  1  of  them  large,  GUnairtnty  and  Glen^ 
teJmttig  s  and  two  fmall,  Finrngkn  and  GlenUariin,  The 
figure  of  the  pariih  U  irreguW. 

SitiuUum^  SoU^  aui  Surface. — ^It  is  fituated  in  the  county  of 
Perth,  and  is  the  weftem  boundary  of  Stratherne.  The  foil, 
in  general,  in  the  low  grounds,  is  light  and  gravelly,  and  full 
of  fmall  fiooes.  In  fome  farms,  efpecially  in  the  glens,  it  ia 
deeper  and  rather  fwampy.  On  the  fides  of  the  glens,  and  of 
the  ftrath,  to  the  £•  end  of  Locherne,  and  of  the  loch  itfelf^ 
diere  is  a  continued  chain  of  hills.  Thefe  hills,  which  com- 
prehend by  far  the  greateft  part  of  the  parifli,  confift  moftly 
of  flieep  farms.  In  the  higher  parts  of  the  glens,^  there  is 
litde  encouragement  to  plow  and  fow,  as  the  crops  are  al- 
ways late,  and  often  deftroyed  by  die  froft  and  rains. 

Climate  and  Difeafesw^^Tht  air,  in  general,  is  very  pure  and 
healthy  j  but  the  climate  in  the  ftrath  differs  confiderably 
from  that  in  the  hilly  part  of  the  pariQi.  In  the  glens,  there 
is  a  great  deal  of  rain :  In  the  ftrath,  which  is  pretty  broad 
near  the  village,  they  feldom  think  they  have  too  much.  Be- 
fore the  j^oats  were  baniflied  from  the  country,  this  pariih  was 
much  refbrted  to  by  invalids,  from  Edinburgh  and  Glafgow, 
for  the  recovery  of  their  health.  Moft  of  the  inhabitants  live 
to  a  good  old  age.  There  are  among  them,  at  prefent,  8  men 
and  9  women  between  80  and  90  years  old,  and  a  great  num« 
bar  between  70  and  So*  Colds  and  rheumatifms  are  the  moft 
common  complaints.  A  few  have  of  late  been  attacked  by  bilious 
diforders,  efpecially  in  fummer  and  harveft.  Colics  too  have 
ibmetimea  proved  fatal,  particularly  (it  is  remarked)  to  thofe 
of  the  name  of  Ftrgujfon.  The  (mall  pox  were  formerly  very 
deftroftive^  bnC|  about  7  years  ago,  the  people  were  prevail- 

Za  ed 


X  8o  Statifikal  Account 

ed  upon  t6  allow  their  children  to  be  inocaltted ;  and  ever 
fince  the  pradice  has  been  general,  and  very  fucoelkfiil. 

Rivers  and  Lakes. — ^The  principal  rivtrtf  kre  the  Em€  av4 
the  RucbiL  The  Erne  iiTues  from  the  lake  of  that  niamey 
about  4  qiiles  W.  from  th6  village  of  Cdmrie.  Rachil  figpi- 
fies;  in  Gaelic,  the  red  flood ;  and  it  is  fo  called*  from  the  red- 
nefs  of  its  waters,  when  fwcUed  with  rain^.  It  takes  its  rife 
among  the  high  hills  at  the  head  of  Glenftirtaej ;  ib  a  fite 
fiihing  ftream,  and  remarkable  for  the  great  numbers  of  fei 
trouu  which  are  to  be  found  iil  it.  Thefe  rivers,'  and  the 
Zednaig^  the  third  largeft  iti  the  pariih,  abound  with'  bum 
trouts;  but  there  are  few  falmon  in  any  of  them,  except 
during  the  fpawning  feafo'n.«— £o^i  Erne  is  about  8  miles  long, 
and  I  broad«  It  is  called  Emef  in  Ga^ic  Erinn^  itQVk  \ii 
weflerljr  iituation.  Its  banks,  for  above  5  miles  on  both 
fides,  are  covered  with  natural  oak  wood,  of  great  extent  and 
value.  The  roftd  from  Crieff,  through  the  parifitea  of  Moni- 
vaird  and  ComHe,  tO.Locib.£me  head,  prefenta  a  greUt  va* 
riety  of  natural  beautiful  ofafeds,'^  and  is  pethajis  not  inferior 
to  any  of  the  fatne  extent  in  the  Highlands*  of  Scotland^ 
X<och-£me  is  not  difiinguiihed  as  a  jBibing  lake.  It  is  istd^ 
that  it  never  freezes*  '  Near  each  tiid  of  it,  there  is  a  fmafl 
ifland,  evidently  drtificiil,  on  which  the  rfeanfaia  of  a  caftk 
are  ilill  vifible;  There  are  only  %  other  imaU  fadces  iii  tiie 
parifh ;  the  one  above  Dnnira,  the  othet  in  the  biaes  of  6kn* 
lednaig,  both  of  which  fwarm  with  trosts  lAout  the  hJk  of 
herring^.   '^     ^*'      ■         — 

Hills ^  Woods f  and  Springs.-^Thi^  parifli  haa  massy  .fa%h 
hills  in  it;  but  the higheft,  not  only  here,  hot  in  all  Strath* 
erne,  is  B^nvurlich,  that  is,  iie  mountain  of  tie  great  Jbie : 
And  Loch-Erne  is  certainly  great,  when  compared  vnih  the 

other 


odier  ^kes  in  Stratherae*    lo  a  clear  dajr,  this  mountiiin  U 

diftin&lj  £een  from  ferth,  from  the  Caftle-hill  of  Edinburgh, 

and  from  a  rifing  ground  at  Loudon  Cafile,  in  Ajrfliire.     Its 

devation  above  the  ^evel  of  the  fea  is  about  3,200  feet.     Be* 

fides  the  oaks  on  each  fide  of  Loch-Erne,   above  mentionedt 

there  is  ^Ifo  an  extenfive  and  valoable  oak  wood  on  the  eilates 

of  Ihadra^  ^ulUlannacbar^  Comrie,  and  jiberrucbiL     A  great 

varxet J  of  other  trees,  particularlj  of  the  fir  fpecies,  have  alfo 

been  planted  of  late,  in  feveral  parts  of  the  pari{h«  and  are 

in  a  very  thriving  condition. — The  only  remarkable  fpring 

here  is  that  of  St.  Fillan  f,  the  Fopiih  faint  of  Breaidalbane; 

at  the  W.  end  of  Stratherne. 

Aumals. — ^T^he  number  of  fheep  is  about  161500  (  of  black 
cattle,  3,Bao  j  of  horfes,  726  \  of  deer,  in  the  foreit  of  Glen- 

airtney, 

^  Thit  rprigg,  tradition  reports,  reared  its  head  on  the  top  of  Dun-F^aMm^ 
(Fxllan's  BHt)^  for  a  long  time  doing  much  good;  but  in  di/gnji^  (probably  at 
the  Reftrwutint  i )  it  rewwvtd  fuddenly  to  the  foot  of  a  rock,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to 
i1^  foothiran!,  whex'e  It  fliU  rmakm^hwMti  indeed,  btit  not  forfalteh.  It  it 
ftiU  rifitdd  by  Hbtletudisary  people,  efjpcflaUy  on  tlie  xft  of  May,  and  the  xft  ^ 
Aagoft,  No  fewer  than  70  perloAi  Yiiiud  it  in  May  and  Auguft  X79I.  The  ib- 
validf ,  whether  men,  women,  or  children,  Walk,  or  arc  carried,  round  the  well, 
three  timet,  in  a  dire^ion  Deijial,  that  is,  from  E.  to  W.  according  to  the  courfe 
of  the  Sun.  They' alfo  drink  of  tbe  water,  and  bathe  in  It.  Thefe  operations 
are  aceoimted  a  certiin  remedy  for  various  difeafes.  They  are  particularly  ef- 
icadons  for  cvmiDg  barreoncfs ;  on  which  account  it  is  freqoently  vifited  by 
tbofe  who  are  very  deilrous  of  offspring.  AU  the  invalids  throw  a  white  (lone 
on  the  iaint's  cairn,  and  leave  behind,  as  tokens  of  their  confidence  and  grati- 
kttde,  fome  rigs  of  linen  Or  woollen  dnth.  The  rock  on  the  fummit  of  the  h3J, 
fortncdt  erf*  itfilft  a  chair  for  the  faint,  which  ftiH  remains.  Thofe  who  complain 
of  rbettnatifoi  in  the  back,  mufl  afceod  the  Kill,  fie  in  this  chair,  then  lie  down 
on  their  back,  and  be  pulled  by  the  legs  to  the  bottom  of  the  hill.  This  opera* 
tion  is  0iU  performed,  and  reckoned  very  efllcacious.  At  the  foot  of  the  hiil, 
there  is  a  bifon,  made  by  the  faint,  on  the  top  of  a  large  (lone,  which  feldom 
wants  water,  even  in  the  ^ateft  drought :  And  all  who  are  dlilxeB'cd  with 
fcsc  eyes  muft  walk  them  three  times  with  this  water. 


i8t  Statifiical  Jccount 

airtney,  between  loo  and  300  $  of  goats,  about  too.  The 
iheep  are  of  the  black  faced  kind,  and  on  mod  of  the  faratis 
are  eVerj  year  improving.  The  fmall  Highland  breed  9 
once  very-Butnerons  here,  is  now  almoft  entirely  baaiflied. 
The  hill  horfes  loo,  to  fnake  room  for  the  fbeep^  are  reduced 
to  a  very  fmall  nnmber*  The  fmeared  or  tarry  wool,  is  fold 
at  from  45.  to  5s.  per  ftone ;  the  white  wool  at  75.  6d« — ^There 
•are  in  Che  pari&  hares,  rabbits,  foxes,  martins,  partridges, 
groufe,  and  a  few  ptarmigans  and  heath  fowL 

Prcducct  C^r.-— The  principal  crops  are  oats-and  bear*  Potatoea 
are  planted  every  where  in  great  quantities,  and,  with  milk, 
conftitute  the  principal  part  of  the  food  of  the  lower  dafles, 
for  8  months  of  the  year.  A  good  deal  of  meal  is  bought 
from  the  neighbouring  parifhes  of  Monivaird,  GriefF  and  Mo- 
thil.  Thofe  parilhes  alfo  fupply  qut  finall  whiiky  ftiUs  with 
about  xaoo  bolls  of  barley  yearly* 

Jlftfuv/a^vrf j.«— Our  flaple  manufafiure  is  linen  yarn,  of 
which  a  great  quantity  is  fpun  and  fold  every  year.  With  the 
money  which  this  yam  briogSt  moft  of  the  farmers  pay  a  great 
part  of  their  rents.  This  yam  fells  at  about  as.  4d.  per 
fpindle.  From  the  tow  of  the  lint  they  fpin  ham  yarn,  which 
is  made  into  cloth,  that  brix^gs  from  9d.  to  is.  per  yard. 
The  finer  fort  is  ufed  for  men  and  women's  (birts ;  the  coarfcr 
for  failors  jackets  and  troufers.  The  women  make  alfo  a  great 
^quantity  of  plaiden  cloth,  which  is  fold  at  from  lod.  to  is. 
per  yard ;  and  a  confiderable  quantity  of  tartan,  of  which 
they  make  plaids  and  hofe*  Thefe  are  partly  for  home  ufc^ 
and  partly  for  the  market. 

Prices  of  Labour. — The  wages  of  fcrvants  and  labourers 
have  riCen  very  much  within  thefe  zo  years*     Day  labourers 


of  Ccmrte.     '^  183 

get  from  lod.  to  xs.  in  fttmmer,  and  from  7d.  to  pd.  In  win* 
ter,  when  their  provifions  are  not  allowed  them*  When  they 
take  work  bj  the  piece,  and  are  employed  in  making  roads^ 
in  ditching,  building  ftone  fences,  quarrying  lime-ftone  and 
flues,  th^  often  earn  from  xs.  to  xs.  6d.  per  day*  The  men 
femmts  receive  from  the  farmers,  from  5!.  to  lol.  a  year  $ 
The  women  fervants  from  2I.  xos.  to  3!.  xos. 

Union  of  Farms,  l/r.— About  a  third  part  of  this  pari(h 
once  belonged  to  the  family  of  Perth  ;  and  when  their  eftite 
was'forfeited,  and  put  under  the  management  of  commifllonerg» 
federal  farms,  fdrmerly  poflefTed  by  many  tenants,  were  givea 
to  one  perfon.  This  leflened  the  number  of  inhabitants  con- 
fiderably.  The  village  indeed  has  increafed  vexy  much  o£ 
late;  but,  by  comparing  what  the  large  farms  have  loll  of 
tenants  and  cotugers,  with  what  the  village  has  gained,  the 
population  does  not  appear  to  be  on  the  increafie.  A  great 
part  of  the  vUlage  is  inclofed,  efpecially  what  belongs  to 
Mr.  Drummokd  of  Perth  }  and  fome  of  the  finrms  are 
lubdivided. 

JUnMs  and  Profrietors^^—Tht  farms  on  the  Perth  eftate  are 
allowed  by  all  to  be  low  rented ;  and  they  are  certainly  fa, 
when  compared  with  the  reft  of  the  country,  The  higheft 
grab  farm  pays  about  20ol. :  The  reft  are  from  80L  down  to 
5I.  In  the  neighbourhood  of  the  village,  the  land  lets  at  from 
xL  to  xl.  xaU  per  acre. — ^The  valued  rent  of  the  parifh  is 
4133L  6s.  8d«  Scotch :  The  real  rent,  though  many  of  the 
beft  £uins  are  let  very  low,  is  about  267GI.  Sterling.  One 
catting  of  the  oak  woods  in  the  parifli  will  yield  about 
13,0001*  There  are  xo  greater,  and  6  fmaller  proprietors* 
None  of  the  greater  refide  conftantly  in  the  parilh,  but  almoft 
all  of  them  vilit  it  annually ;  and  3  of  the  greateft  refide  ia 

the 


1 84  Slatifiical  Account 

the  neighbourhood,  at  leaft  for  half  the  yean    Fhre  of  tbo 
Sthaller  heritors  refide  conftantlj. 

PopuJaiion. — ^The  popuUtien  of  this  parifli  is  not  thought 
to  fae  iacreafiogf  although,  witbin  thefe  40  years,  it  has  aug— 
fiiCDled  coofiderabiy.  The  nambcr  of  iAhabitantSi  ci  all  ages, 
amounts  to  about  -  -  -  .  -  •  -  3000 
The  return  to  Dr.  Wcbftcr/  in  1755,  was  only       -        ^S^^ 

Hence  thefe  is  evidently  an  increafe  of         •         454 

Wheii  the  number  of  arable  acres,  the  infant  ftate  of  trade 
and  manufafiufesy  with  Che  Scarcity  and  high  price  of  fuel,  are 
confidered,  this  part  of  Stratheme  is  fufHciently  populous. 
Many  boys  and  girls  are  employed  as  herds,'  and  many  young; 
Inen  and  women,  as  fervants,  every  year,  ixi  the  neighl)ourin^ 
Lowland  parifhes.  Were  a  coarfe  woollen  nianufafiory  efta- 
bliihed  at  Comrie,  it  would  meet  with  encouragement,  do 
inudi  good,  and  employ  many  half  idle  hands/  For  8  years 
pail,  none  have  emigrated  from  the  parifli,  but  6  cottagersi  with' 
their  families,  to  Blair-Drummond  M ofs,  in  Monteith'. 

Ecctefiafiical  Stare. — ^Th'e  prefent  incumbent^  Mr.  Hugh 
M^DiARMED  was  admitted  minifier  of  Comrie  in  July  X78i. 
iThe  church  is  old,  too  fmall,  and  not  in  very  good  xepair. 
There  is  another  church,  4  miles  weft  from  the  village,  in 
which  divine  fervice  is  performed,  almoft  wholly  in  Gaelic, 
every  fourth  Sunday.  The  manfe  and  offices  were  built  in 
X784.  The  glebe  confifts  of  near  9  acres,  6  of  which  are  pretty 
good ;  the  others  are  very  poor.  The  ftipend  is,  in  money, 
521.  as.  3d. ;  and,  in  grain,  16  bolls  of  meal,  and  8  bolls  of 
b^r  ;  in  all,  about  69U ;  and  in  this  fiim  is  included  what  is 
allowed  for  communion  elements.  There  is  a  Imall  meeting 
of  Antiburgher  Seceders  in  the  village  ^  and  there  are  6  Pa- 

piftis 


6f  Comrie.  185 

pillsy  who  attend  the  Roman  Catholic  chapel  in  the  neigh* 
homing  pariOi  of  Muthil,  in  which,  as  well'  as  iii  Criefip 
many  ot*  them'  refide. 

Schools. — ^Befides  the  parochial'  fchool,  at  which  are  Caught 
from  70  to  100  fcholars,  thiere  are  3  others,  foppdrted  hj  the 
Society  fo^  propagating  Chrtflian  Knowledge  ;  one  of  whick 
has  often,  during  the  winter  feafon,  ioo ;  the  other  a  from' 
50  to  6d  fcholars.  In  the  remote  parts  of  the  parifh,  there 
dre  1  or  3  fmall  fchools,  fopportcd  b/  (ht  tenants,  whofe 
children  derive  benefit  from  them. 

Poor ^-^^Thc  nuttober  of  poor  on.  the  parifli  roll  is  I  a.  Some 
of  thefe  receive  a  weeklj,  and  fome  on! j  an  occafional  fup- 
p\j»  The  weekly  penfioners'  receive  6d.  or  is. ;  the  occa- 
sional ones  as.  or  3s.  three  or  four  times  in  the  jear ;  and,  at 
Martinmas  and  Candlemas,  even  the  weekly  penfioners  receive 
as.  or  as.  6d.  each.  The  annual  fum  expended  for  their  re* 
Kef  is  about  40I.  This  fum  is  produced  by  the  coUefiions 
in  the  church,  by  proclamations,  and  mortcloth  dues,'  by  fines 
for  irregular  marriages,  and  other  trefpafles,  and  the  intereft 
of  xool.  The  poor  ai'e  pei'mitted  to  beg  in  the  pariQi.  Somo 
poor  boufe*  keepers  beg  for  corn  in  fpring  j  and  many  poor 
honfb-wiVes  beg  for  wool  in  fnmmer. 

Roads  and  Bridges^ — There  is  one  gr^t  road  through  the 
pariih,  leading  from  Crieff  to  Loch-Erne  head ;  and  feverat 
fmalle^  roads  through  the  glens.  Between  Criefi*  and  Loch« 
£me  there  are  5  done  bridges  acrofs  the  river  Erne,  3  of 
which  confift  of  4  arches.  There  are  befides  feveral  Hone  and 
Wooden  bridges  on  the  RuchiF,  the  Lednaig,  &c.  The  roads 
in  this  and  the  neighbouring  parifhes  were  formerly  made  by 
fbe  ftatute  labour  i  but  this  was  lately  converted  into  money. 

Vol.  XI.  A  a  Tenants, 


i96  Statl/ikal  Account 

TeoantSy  who  poflefs  farms  of  30L  yearlj  Ten%  paj  from  91^ 
to  145.  All  above  and  bdow  this  fam  pay-  in  proportioiu 
Cottagers^  villagers  and  tradefmen,  pay  2S.  or  is.-  6d/each«. 
The  converfion  monej  is  very  well  laid  oat ;  bat  the  inhm- 
bitants  of  the  glens  complain  of  late  that  too  much  is  expead-i^ 
ed  oa  the  great  road*  The  fum  coUeded  is  infuflkient  for 
keeping  all  the  roads  in  proper  repair,  as  thej  are  very  niw 
morousy  and  liable  to  be  hurt  by  the  mountain  torrents. 

CbaraBtr  and  Language^ — Like  the  generality  of  the  com-i 
^on  Highlandersi  the  lower  ranks  here  are  modeft,  peaceable^ 
and  very  obliging.  There  are  few  law^fuits  among  them  9 
and  there  have  been  none  for  thefe  xo  years,  except  about 
legacies,  multures,  and  marches.  They  are  frugal,  moderate^ 
and  indufirious;  and,  except  at  merry  meetings,  are  not  much 
addided  to  drioking. — The  common  knguage  of  the  people 
is  Gaelic.  All  the  natives  underftand  it;  but  many,  efpecially 
of  the  old>  do  not  underftand  Englifh  well.  AU  the  young 
people  can  fpeak  Englifh ;  but,  in  order  to  acquire  it,  they 
mud  go  to  fervice  in  the  Low  Country.  The  Gaelic  is  not 
fpoken  in  its  purity,  neither  here  nor  in  any  of  the  bordering, 
parilkes. 

Advantages  and  Difadvantages.-'^^tbh  parilh  having  good 
roads,  particularly  on  the  £•  and  W.,  has  a  fafe  and  eafy 
communication  both  with  the  Low  Country  and  the  High4 
lands.  The  traders,  in  the  village,  traffic  much  with  the  people 
of  Balquhidder  and  Killin.  Thefe  they  ferve  with  oat-mealt 
barley-meal,  and  whiiky  ;  and  get  in  return  flax,  linen  yamy 
and  wool.  There  is  a  good  flate  quarry  near  the  foreft  of 
Glenairtney.  It  is  the  only  one  in  this  part  of  the  country* 
There  is  likewife  an  excellent  lime  quarry,  at  the  W.  end  of 
the  pariih,  very  near  the  fide  of  Loch-Erne,  which  has  beett 

lihe 


tf  Comrie.  187 

the  sieans  of  improving  a  great  part  of  the  land,  in  this  and 
the  neighbouring  pariih  of  Monivaird.  The  raw  lime-ftone 
15  brought  in  a  large  boat  to  the  £.  end  of  the  loch,  and  there 
foU,  burnt  or  unbumt,  as  purchafers  incline.-— The  greateft 
difbdvantage,  under  which  manj  pares  of  the  pariih  labour,  is 
the  fcmrcitj  and  high  price  of  fuel.  White  timber,  or  peeled 
oak,  once  plentiful  and  cheap,  is  now  fcarce  and  dear.  Peats^ 
at  beft  a  troublefome  and  ezpenfive,  though  the  mod  common 
fuel,  are  diflaat  from  the  village,  and  moft  of  the  farms,  a  or 
3  miles.  Tht  neareft  ^ood  coal  lies  at  the  diftance  of  25 
mfles  from  the  village.  Were  the  (hort  road  made  acroft  the 
hills  to  the  fouthward  of  Comrie,  which  is  eameftlj  longed  for, 
coals  will  become  cheaper  and  more  plentiful.  This  road 
will  leflen  the  diftance  verj  confiderablj,  and,  when  procured, 
will  tend  much  to  advance  the  happineis  and  profperitj  of  this 
part  of  the  couotr  j, 

jintiquitUs. — ^In  3  different  places  in  the  pariihes,  there  are 
to  be  feen  the  remains  of  fmall  Druidical  temples*.  The 
greateft  piece  of  antiquity  here  is  the  Roman  camp  on  the 
pUin  of  Dalgincrofs^  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Comrie.  On 
this  j^ain  are  ftill  vifible  very  diftinA  remains  of  two  camps, 
with  only  an  inconfiderable  diftance  betw.een  them,  and  joined 
J)7  an  agger  f. 

AzTi  Eartbquaiiif 


•  The  ftonci  of  one  of  thcfc  near  the  ^hge  were  broken  to  piecet,»bout  10 
fan  ago,  anditfed  is  bmlding  one  of  the  new  houfe< :  And  it  has  been  remark- 
ed, by  fome  lovers  of  antiquity,  that  thofe  who  were  guilty  of  this  ad  of  iacrilege 
•etcr  profpetcd  a/terwards. 

*  Mr.  Gordon,  in  his  Jtiurarittm  St^temtrimuUef^MxOiicd  in  1726,  (hews 
thk  to  have  bees  the  plain,  on  which  the  battle  was  fought  between  AoRicoi.4 
Bad  Oaloacvs.  One  of  the  camps  u  40%  paces  long,  and  39)  broad.  The 
Cher  ii  now  confidcrably  dixainiihed  by  the  encroachmeati  of  ihe  Ruchil. 


|[  88  Statiftkal  Jccount 

Earthquakes, — ^This  parilh,  and  the  neigbbonrhood,  haye^ 
for  more  than  3  years  pa(t,  been  iiot  a  little  alarmed  by 
feveral  fmait  ihocks  of  an  earthquake.  It  was  firft  felt» 
or  rather  loud  noifes,  unaccompanied  with  any  concnflioot 
were  heard  bj  the  inhabitants  of  Glenlednaig,  dnring  autuaaxK 
17.89.  Thefe  noiCss  were  firft  fuppofed  to  be  peab  of  thun- 
der i  afterwards,  as  thej  were  heard  foo^etimes  when  the  Ikj 
was  quite  clear,  the  people  imagined  thej  were  occafioned  bj 
the  firing  of  the  carronades  at  Dnnira.  Finding,  however,  on 
inqnirj,  that  they  did  not  proceed  from  this  eaufe,  they  were 
at  a  Io(s  how  to  account  for  them,  till  the  5th  of  November 
9789,  when,  about  6  o'clock  in  the  evening,  they  were  alarm« 
ed  by  a  loud  rumbling  noife,  accompanied  with  a  fevere  (hock 
of  an  earthquake.  This  ihock,  which  is  generally  fuppoled  to 
be  the  moft  violent  of  any  that  has  happened  here^  was  very 
fenfiUy  felt  over  a  traft  of  country  of  more  than  10  miles  in 
extent.  Since  that  period  the  fliocks  have  been  very  frequent, 
and  at  times  pretty  violent ;  but  hitherto  they  have  done  no 
harm.  Within  thefe  3  or  4  weeks,  fince  the  weather  has 
iettled  into  drought,  they  have  ceafed  altogether.  The  cen- 
tre of  the  earthquake  is,  as  nearly  as  can  be  guefied,  about 
the  mouth  of  Glenlednaig,  a  mile  or  two  north  from  th»  vi}* 
lage  of  Comrie.  What  fupports  this  conjedure  is,  that  the 
people  who  live  on  the  £.  fide  of  the  glen,  feel  the  earth- 
quake  begin  in  the  N.  W.,  and  proceed  in  a  fouth-eafterly 
direftion :  Thofe  again  who  inhabit  the  country  on  the  W. 
fide  of  it,  think  it  takes  its  rife  in  the  Nt  E«,  and  expires  in 
thcW.' :.•..-.. 


>IUMBEJR. 


pf  Forbes  and  Kearn.  JS9 

N  U  M  B  E  R    xn. 

UNITED  PARISHES  OF  FORBES  AND 
KEARN. 

{Prejbytery  of  jUford^^Cauntj  and  Synod  of  Abirdan*) 
B^  the  Rev.  Mr.  Bekjamzk  M£RCER»  Minijier  of  the  PariJIf. 


Origin  of  the  Names. 

TQE  a&cient  n^me  of  the  parifh  of  Forbks  is  totally  uq-i 
known.  The  parlfli  feems  to  derive  its  prefenc  appel- 
lation from  the  noble  family  of  Forbes,  who  have  been  pro- 
prietors of  it  for  feveral  centuries  pall.  Kearn  has  its  name 
from. a  cairn  in  the  parifh  ;  which  feems  to  have  been,  in  an- 
cient timeSf  an  extenfive  dry  fortification  ;  but  when,  or  by 
whom  erefted,  tradition  itfelf  pretends  not  to  fay. 

Siittaium  and  Extent^  %ie. — ^Thefe  pariiheb  are  difiant  from 
Aberdeen  about  2  a  miles,  fouth-weflerly ;  their  length,  froni 
N.  W*  to  SX.,  is  about  6i  miles  i  their  breadth  1.  They  meet 
in  a  point,  in  the  middle  of  «  ridge  of  mounuins,  which  cx« 
tend  10  or  II  miles  from  tte  chapel  of  Garrioch,  on  the 
N.  £.,  to  Auchendoir  and  Kildrummy  on  the  S.  W.  Thefe 
mooncauos  have  various  appellations,  according  to  their  dif- 
ferent 


i  90  "Statifllcdl  Account 

Cerent  fituitions.  That  part  of  theto  which  feparat^s  Porbe* 
aad  Kearn,  ^nd  whicb  .is  about  5  miles  over,  is  called  Careen^ 
which,  thej,  who  are  acquainted  with  the  Gaelic,  faj,  fignifies 
>the  HUl  of  the  Muirfowl^  and  with  which,  indeed,  it  pretty 
n^UQh  abounds.  On  the  S.  E^.  fide  of  this  mountain,  and  otk 
a  gentle  declivitj,  extending  about  a  miles  along  the  banks  of 
the  river  Don,  lies  the  -pariih  of  Forbes.  It  contains,  bjr  a 
-late  meafurement,  4075  acres ;  of  which  there  arc* 

^n4er  tillage,         -  .«        807        Pafture,  ^  ^  58  a 

Ia»me&4ow  f  ni«,  -  53        Muix;,  ^  -  %Slt 

In  wood  and  grafi,  -  60        Mofs,  •  .-  -       40 

«— Kearn  Kes  on  the  N«  W.  fide  of  the  faid  mountain,  on  n 
very  eafj  declivity  to  the  river  Bogie«  As  the  meafureroent 
of  this  parifli  never  happened  to  come  into  the  hands  of  the 
author  hereof,  he  cannot  afcertain  its  extent  with  precifion  i 
but  it  is  fuppofed  to  contain  2716  acres,  of  which  there  may 
be  about  600  under  tillage,  the  reft  in  pafturci  mdb  and  muir. 

Soil  and  ProduBions^  (^r.— The  foil  throughout  the  whole 
^i{tri£t  is  naturally  light  and  dry.  This  quality  renders  i% 
favourable  for  early  harvefts.  The  crop,  however,  in  dry 
(eafons,  is  generally  thin  and  (hort ;  but,  when  refreihed  with 
frequent  Ikowers  of  rain,  it  becomes  very  weighty  and  luxu- 
riant, where  the  foil  is  in  good  heart.  The  principal  produc? 
tions  of  this  diftrift  are  oats  and  bear :  Some  tenants  fow  a  few 
peafe,  but  to  no  great  extent.  All  of  them,  however,  fow  a 
few  turnips ;  and  plant  fuch  quantities  of  potatoes,  greens 
and  cabbages,  as  are  fufficient  for  their  own  confumption* 
•The  diflrift  fupplies  itfelf  with  provifions,  and  fends  a  confi. 
^erable  'quantity  to  market* 


^f  Forbes  and  Keam.  igx 

Cultivaiiam^ — The  old  mode  of  cultivation  continues;  tho 
old  Scotch  plough,  drawn  by  8,  lo,  and  i%  oxen,  and  fome 
with  horfes  and  oxen  together  ;  one  crop  of  bear  and  3  of 
corn,  after  diinging  the  infield  ;  and  5  crops  of  com  on  out- 
field, after  lathing.  The  outfield  lies  other  5  years  in  natural 
gab ;  but  the  infield  generally  goes  on  in  the  forefaid  rota- 
tion. There  is  not  an  acre  of  land  improved  in  this  diftriA^ 
excepting  a  fewy  which  Mr.  Grant  of  Driminner  has  improv- 
td,  in  the  farm  which  he  has  in  his  own  hands  ;  all  the  reft 
lies  in  the  lame  ffate  in  which  it  was  30  years  ago. 

Woodj  Rivers  and  Fi/bf  ^c. — There  are  no  artificial  planta- 
tioQs  of  timber  in  this  diili i£t.  There  isfome  natural  wood  along 
the  banks  of  the  Don  and  the  Bogie,  coniiiling  of  aller,  birchf 
and  fome  hagberry ;  but  of  no  great  extent  or  value. — ^The 
rWer  Don,  which  runs  through  a  fmall  part  of  the  parilh  o£ 
Forbes,  and  almoft  bounds  it  on  the  S.  £.  smd  St,  is  a  beau« 
tiful  limpid  ftream,  and  abounds  with  fine  bum  trouts,  ibme  o£ 
them  3  lb.  and  4  lb.  weight.  Some  falmon  come  upin  the  fpring, 
and  are  uken  with  the  rod  and  fpear  in  fummer.  It  often 
everflows  its  banks,  and,  as  its  motion  is  rapid,  it  does  great 
burt  to  the  crops  in  fummer,  and  fometimes  carries  ofiT  great 
quantities  of  corn  in  autumn.  The  Bogie,  which  bounds  Keara 
on  the  N.  W.  having  its  fource  and  part  of  its  courfe  in  moii^ 
ground,  is  naturally  black  and  muddy.  It  abounds,  however, 
with  fmall  burn  trouts ;  but  no  (almon  come  up  fo  far  as  Keam. 
It  frequently  alfo  overflows  its  banks  ;  but,  as  its  motion  is 
flow,  it  does  little  hurt  to  the  com  fields,  either  in  fummer  or 
dntumn.  There  is  another  fmall  ftream,  called  the  Efiel,  which 
divides  Forbes  from  Tillinefsle,  and  which  has  z  lint  and  3 
Cora  mills  on  it. 

Motntatht^^Tht  hill  of  Correeni  which  feparates  Forbes 

from 


igi  iStatifiicdl  Account 

ifrom  Keaniy  is  covered  with  heath,  mofs  and  turf.  It  makes 
an  excellent  (heep-walk  in  fammer.  As  thej  ftroll  in  it  night 
and  day,  thejr  afford  excellent  mutton  in  the  months  of  Sep* 
tember  and  0£^ober,  in  drj  feafons.  Its  perpendiculSir  heighc 
from  the  bed  of  the  tlver  Don,  will  be  between  400  and  300 
yards.  Immediately  on  the  oppofite  fide  of  the  river,  there  is 
linother  mountain,  nearly  of'  the  fame  height,  called  Calwar ; 
at  the  foot  of  which  there  is  one  farm  belonging  to  the  parilh 
of  Forbes:  That  part  of  the  hill  which  belongs  to  this  farm,  is 
covered  with  heath,  and  makes  a  good  fii^ep-walk. 

FueL — ^Peati  abd  turf  are  the  only  fuel  made  ufe  of  in  this 
diftriA,  which  the  hill  of  Correen  affords  in  great  plenty,  and 
of  the  beft  quality.  The  tenant,  however,  cannot  accommo- 
date his  family  with  fo  neceffary  an  article,  but  at  a  very 
high  txpence  yearly*.  For  befides  the  expence  of  cafting  up 
^eats  and  turf,  the  whole  fummer  quarter  is  fpent  in  drying 
and  bringing  them  home ;  and  if  to  this  be  added  the  lofs  of 
the  fummer  feafon,  for  preparing  dung  for  the  land,  it  will  be 
impolSble  to  calculate  the  damages,  either  to  the  tenant  as  an 
individual,  or  to  the  public  at  large.  Heath  is  generally  made 
tife  of  for  drying  com  for  the  mill,  as  well  as  for  houfe  ufe.* 
No  coal  is  ufed  in  this  diftrifi  but  for  fmithy  work. 

Manure. — Animal  dung  (mixed  with  earth  and  peat  adies}/ 
3s  the  only  manure  ufed  in  the  diftrifi.  Although  there  be  a' 
Iime-ftone  quarry  in  the  hill  of  Correen,  of  a  very  fine  qua« 
Kty,  and  plenty  of  peats  and  turf  to  burn  it,«no  perfevering 
ittempt  has  yet  been  made  to  bring  it  to  a  proper  bearing. 
The  heritors  are  carelefs  and  remifs,  and  the  tenants  have  nei« 
ther  abilities  nor  encouragement  to  work  it. 

•       CUmate 


^f  Fprbes  and  KcArn.  193 

C&maU  and  Di/ta/es.—'The  air  is  drjr^  clear,  and  healthfal; 
and  as   tiie  couotiy  in  general  is  mountainous,  it  has  a  fine 
drculiition  at  all  feafons,  thQugh  "Ofteja  very  fliarp  and  cold« 
The  difitafes  incident  to  the  people  of  this  diftrift,  and  of  the 
country  in  general,  ace  yarioos  :  lingering  feyers,  of  ithe  nefy« 
oas  kind,  few  inflaneimatory  ;   gout,   rheumatifm,  Ja\Midice>, 
fcrophnla,  fcurvj,  gravel  and  ftone,  fmaU^pox,  meafles^  hoop-* 
ing  conghy  &c.     Inftances  of  all  thefe  ace  frequently  to  be 
met  with  among  the  people.     Some  children  ate  loft  by  the 
liaxalUpox,  meafles  aad  hooping  cough.     But  as  the  peoplr, 
in  ft  great  meafure,  have  got  oyer  jtheir  prejudices  agaihft  ino^ 
colatioo,  very  few  now  die  in  the  fmaU*po^.     But  of  all  the 
difeafes  that  prevail  in  this  country,  the  (ci^vy  is  the  moft 
epidemical,  and  may  juftly  be  cidled  the  bane  and  fcourge  of 
human  nature.    This  diftemper  may  primarily  be  contrafted 
from  various  caufes  ;  idle  iodoteat  habits,  unwholefome  food, . 
impure  air,  the  want  of  attention  to  cleanlinefs,  4  fedentary 
life,  &c.  mfty  occafion  it.     Sedentary  employments  are  evi- 
dently nourifhers  of  this,  as  v^ell  as  of  all  other  putrid  dif- 
orders  ;  and  when  any  putrid  diforder  gets  hold  of  the  humaa 
conllitution,  it  is  not  eafily  expelled,  agd  of  confcquence  be- 
comes  hereditary,  and  is  handed  down  to  pofterity  with  all 
its  woeful  incjeaiing  force.     Tliis  in  reality  is  but  too  much 
the  cafe  with  the  fcurvy  among  the  people  of  this  country. 
When  this  diftemper  is  cutaneous,  its  tfftAs  are  often  dread- 
ful ;  but  9  opt  of  zo  have  it  latent  in  the  body,  and  then  its 
<ffeds  are  baneful  indeed  !    It  falls  upon  the  fofter  and  warmer 
parts  of  the  body,  mixes  itfelf  intimately  with  the  circulation 
of  the  blood,  corrupts  it,  weakens  and  enfeebles  all  parts  of 
the  frame,  and  corrodes  the  lungs,  ftomach  and  inteftines  ; 
hence  foetid  breath,  perfpiration  and  (lool  j  collive  habits,  ob- 
ftrudions  of  the  menfes  j  various  pains  throughout  the  body ; 
coughs  and  difficulty  of  breathings  fofu  eyes  and  throats; 
Vol.  XT.  B  b  ilitche*, 


1 94  Statijlical  A^cowt 

iticched;  headachs ;  fwellings  and  boils,  now  and  iheiif    ox^ 
various  parts  of  the  body  ;  lafiitudes  and  melancholy  habtts« 
&c.  All  thefe,  apd  many  more  that  will  not  bear  defcription, 
are  the  difmal  efieSs  of  this  dreadful  fcourgei  and  are  all 
feverely  felt  from  time  to  time  among  the  people  at  large  , 
and  preipature  death  is  often  the  confequenpe;  feveral  inftance^ 
of  which  could  be  given  in  this,  ^nd  in  other  neighbouring 
diftriftsy  within  thefe  lo  yeai:s  paft.     It  is  dreadful  to  think 
in  how  many  ways  this  (hocking  diftemper  preys  on  the  hu* 
man  frame,  and  often  renders  the  unhappy  fuSerer  a  nuilancc 
to  himfelf  and  to  fociety.     Befides,  the  nature  of  this,  as  well 
as  of  all  other  putrid  diftemper^,  is  extremely  infedioos ; 
The  clothes  fcorbutic  perfons  wear  and  fleep  in,  and  the  ai^ 
they  breath,  will  convey  inlenfibly  the  contagion  to  a  clean 
perfon ;  and  they  who  fleep  with  them  piuft  foon  feel  the 
woeful  coufequences*.  It  is  ft  pity  that  no  fpecificbas  yet  been 
found  fuificient,  to  eradicate  this  growing  evil,  or  ^t  leaft  to 
counteract  its  malignant  force.     Nothing,  perhaps,  would  be 
more  worthy  the  attention  o£  government,  than  to  offer  pre- 
miums for  the  mod  effedual  fpecifics  againfl  fo  deftruftive  a 
diftemper ;  the  confequence  might  be,  the  hardy  fold^er,  and 
the  healthy  fubje6t. 

Population^ 

*  Of  the  troth  of  tlifi  above  remarki,  there  u  a  mclancholf  infiance  io  thu 
pariOl,  of  a  perfao,  who,  after  having  enjoyed  the  beft  ftate  of  health  for  the 
fpace  of  48  yean  of  hit  age,  unfortunately,  by  deeping  with  a  perfon  deeply 
tinAured  with  this  difteffiper.  in  a  fioaall  cloie  room,  eaught  the  lofeAioo,  and, 
for  xo  yean  paft,  hat  experienced  all  ttt  dreadful  effedt ;  and  indeed,  for  three 
of  thefe  jeart,  bat  been  rfndered  incapable,  in  a  great  meafure,  of  attending  to 
any  bufineft;  aii4»  after  laying  out,  of  a  (joaall  inconae,  a  coniiderable  fum  of  mo* 
ney,  on  dodort,  medicinet,  goat*i  whey,  flee,  endeavouring  to  get  clear  of  the 
diftemper,  he  hat  little  other  hopes  left,  than  to  fpin  out  the  remainder  of  hit 
dayt  in  the  fame  woeful  lituation,  and  to  wait  for  purification  in  the  grave. 
Thit  ought  to  be  a  warniog  to  every  individual  in  health,  to  beware  with  who;a 
they  aftociate,  left  they  meet  with  the  Jbme  fatal  coufcquencrt. 


of  Forbes  and  Keartf.  1 95 

Pojmlation.^As  no  regular  regifter  has  been  kept  here  for 
tnaoj  years  paft,  no  proper  account  can  be  given  of  the  po- 
pulation at . different  periods;  onlj,  in  the  year  1722,  when 
Forbes  and  Kearn  were  united,  the  number  of  examinable  per- 
fons  in  both  was         .  «  -  •         .        300 

And,  in  17551  Vi:hen  the  return  was  made  to  Dr.  Web- 

fter,  the  number  of  fouls  was  -  -  -*         43^ 

At  prefcnt  (179^)1  it  amounts  only  to         -         -         f  37© 

Uecreafe,         -         -         -         66 
Of  thefe  there  are  Males.     Females,  Total. 


At  and  under  zi  years  of  age,        -         49 

44 

•    93 

Between  13  and  69,  inclufive,        «        ilz 

137 

»58 

At  and  above  70,        -        -        -         it 

8 

»9 

z8i 

189 

370 

The  number  of  families  in  both  parifhes  is 

. 

'~ 

The  average  number  of  perfons  in  each, 

* 

4 

Manvfa£iures .^^Thc  chief  tnanufadure,  carried  on  in  this 
and  the  neighbouring  parishes,  is  knitting  of  (lockings ;  in 
which  occupation  moft  of  the  women,  thoughout  the  whole 
year,  and  fome  boys  and  old  men,  during  the  winter  feafon, 
are  employed.  They  receive  for  fpinning,  doubling,  twifling 
and  weaving  each  pair,  from  lod.  to  2s.  Sterling,  according 
to  the  finenefs  or  coaifenefs  of  the  materials,  and  the  dimen- 
fioDS  of  the  ftockings.  Some  few  women  are  employed  in 
fpbninglint. 

B  b  1  Cattle. 


t  The  oumUr  of  foult  ih  thefe  f  arilhci  bat  been  Kvch  the  fame  u  at  preient 
ior  16  yean  paft. 


196  Statijiical  Accwnt 

Cattle. — The  number  of  black  cattle,  in  the  dift  t  i£l,  is  $i§ 
— — —  iheep^ — ^  ^074 
—————  horfes,  105 
carts, — 5^ 

Church  and  School. — ^At  what  time  the  churches  of  Forbes 
and  Kcam  were' built,  ho  perfon  living  knows.  Thej  are  at 
prefent  in  lad  re{>air  ;  and,  at  the  death  of  the  prefent  incum- 
bent, the  pariihes  are  to  be  annexed  to  Auchendoir  and  Til- 
liaefsle.  The  manfe  was  built  about  70  jears  ago,  and  has 
got  many  partial  repairs  (ince,  but  is  ftill  a  mean  habitation. 
The  ftipend  is  'i}L  Sterling,  indnding  4U  Scotch  for  com- 
munion elements,  and  3  cbalders  of  Tiftual^  together  with  a 
glebe  of  about  8  acres,  grafs  included.  The  tithes  are  faid 
to  be  valued  and  exhaufted.  Lord  Forbes  lately  was,  but 
now  Lord  Fife  is,  patron.  There  never  has  been  any  legal 
fchool  in  this  diftrifi  \  only  fome  of  the  minifiers  either  kept 
a  fchool  themfelves,  or  kept  a  boy  for  educating  their  own 
children,  and  admitted  the  children  in  the  neighbourhood  to 
partake  of  the  benefit.  The  prebnt  incumbent  applied  for  » 
fchool  4  years  ago ;  but  the  application  was  uofuccefsfuL 

Poor. — Before  the  year  178a,  the  funds  for  the  poor  were 
only  about  30I.  Sterling,  befides  the  ordinary  coUedions,  which 
fcarcely  amount  to  il.  Sterling  per  annum.  But  in  l*]Z^•^ 
the  j[aid  funds  were  totally  exliaufled ;  and  therefore  no  pen- 
fions  can  be  beftowed  on  any,  but  only  Come  aiSftance  given 
where  it  is  abfolutely  neceflary.  No  poor's  rates  have  yet 
tnken  place  in  this  country.  In  the  years  178a  and  1783,  by 
the  a&ivity  of  the  fefHon,  partly  by  the  forefaid  funds,  and 
partly  by  the  government's  gratuity,  together  with  the  ufe  of 
private  money,  the  poor  in  this  diftrift  were  equally  well  Inp- 

piled 


of  Forhes  and  Ktarn.^  i^j 

plied  ^^  itih  any  in  the  neighbourhood.  But  the  heritors  nei* 
thcr  tcol^  any  coacem,  nor  expended  a  fingle  fliilliog  for  their 
reUcf. 

Heritors^  Remts^  and  Roads. — There  are  3  hefitors  in  this 
diftn£b»  odI/  x  of  whom  refides.  The  valued  reQt  is  ii66h 
Scotch  ;  the  prefent  rent,  reckoning  the  viftual  paii  to  the 
berstors  at  tis.  Sterling  per  boll,  is  65  2I.  Sterling.  The  roads 
in  this  diftri^  are  made  and  repaired  by  the  flatute  labour  on- 
ly ;  and,  of  confequence,  they  are  in  a  moft  wretched  Aate, 
being  fcarcvly  paffiible  in  the  winter  feafon. 

jtntiquHks. — There  are  no  antiquities  in  this  diitriS  worth 
mentioningy  excepting  fome  Druidical  places  of  worihip,  and 
m  few  trifiing  tumuli,  ishicb  bcm  to  have  been  burial  places 
in  the  times  of  heathenifm.  None  of  them  haye  yet  been 
opened.  Driminner,  the  ancient  feat  of  jthe  family  of  Forbes, 
is  the  only  caiUe  af»d  ^ntlemau^s  &ftt  .in  (he  diftrifi:.  It  feems 
to  hsTc  been  built  about  the  middle  of  the  16th  century;  the 
oldeft  date  is  1 577» 

C&ara£F#r.— That  the  people  in  this  dtftti^  we  (atiafied 
with  their  prcient  fituation,  cannot  with  propriety  be  faid  | 
their  rents  being  triple  and  quadruple  what  they  .formerly 
were,  their  lands  ftill  unimproved,  their  leafes  ihofti  Hior  flock 
exhaufted  in  the  years  1782  and  1783,  befides  the  high  rates 
of  femnts  fees.  All  tbefe,  as  well  as  other  circuniftattoet  that 
could  be  mentioned,  keep  them  ftill  in  pinching  poverty,  ia 
fpite  of  their  utmoft  iodollry*  They  are,  in  Aature,  about 
the  middle  £2^^  and,  in  general,  of  a  fomewhat  fvrarthy  con* 
plezion.  As  to  their  manner  of  life,  they  ate  indttftciocst 
feber,  regular  attendants  on  public  worlhip  and  other  ordinances 
of  the  gofpel  $  charitable,  and  of  an  obliging  temper  and  A\U 
pofitioHi    There  are  no  feftaries  among  them. 

NUMBER 
6 


i^^  Statift'tcal  Account 

NUMBER    XIII. 
PARISH    OF    CAMERON. 

{fnJhyUry  of  St.  Andrews — Synod  and  County  ofFifo.^ 
By  tbi  Rev.  Mr.  John  Mair,  Mmifter: 


£riaiont  SUuationi  and  Extent. 

4 

THIS  parifli  was  disjoined  from  St.  Andrews  about  z6ar 
years  ago.  The  church  and  manfe  lie  almoft  in  the  centrep 
mbbut  3  computed  miles  S.  W.  from  the  citj  of  St.  Andrews. 
Its  extent,  from  N.  to  S.,  is  3  computed  miles  9  and  4  from 
£'.  to  W. ;  but,  from  N.  E.  to  S.  W.,  and  from  N.  W.  to 
S«  Em  4  computed  mHes  each  waj. 

Cmkwationt  Mineraltf  Scil^  %ic. — About  30  years  before 
the  disjunftiouy  there  was  plenty  of  game ;  and  long  after  that 
period,  even  no  farther  back  than  60  years  ago,  almoft  all  eaft- 
ward  £rom  the  church,  there  was  one  continued  trad  of  heath ; 
but  atpzefent  nothing  of  that  kind  is  to  be  feen,  excepting  upon 
the  lands  of  Lathocker,  belonging  to  Mils  Scott,  who,  it  is 
to  be  hoped,  when  fhe  arrives  at  majority,' will  give  proper 
encouragement  to  cultivate  that  barren  fpoc.    What  has  been: 

of 


of  Cameron^  ipg 

M  Cogulac  fervlce  in  making  fach  an  alteration  is  the  lime.ftone 
^od  coal,  with  which  this  parifli  abounds*  The  foil  differs 
Tcrj  mach  through  the  whole  pariQi ;  and  though  fome  verj 
good  grain  is  produced,  (efpecially  on  the  farms  to  the  northr 
waxd  of  the  church),  yet,  in  general,  it  is  better  adapted  for 
pafturage.  The  proprietors  are  fo  fenfible  of  this,  that  more 
than  one  half  of  the  pari|h,  \vhich  was  all  open  fields  30  years 
ago,  is  now  inclofed  ;  and  fimilar  improvements  are  daily 
making  upon  the  reil  of  it. 

Farm  Rents ^  Prices  of  Labour ^  ^c. — Rents  arc  confiderably 

raifed  within  thefe  30  years.     All  the  farms,  of  which  leafes 

]xive  been  lately  granted,  produce  to  the  proprietor  double, 

and  fome  of  them  triple,  of  what  they  did  formerly.   The  price 

of  labour,  in  fome  meafure,  keeps  pace  with  the  rents.  Tailors, 

whofe  wages  were  po  more  than  4d.  per  day,  demand  zed. ; 

ma(bn5,whoufedtoworkfora  merk,  (13s.  4d.  Scotch),  look  for 

IS.  8d.  Ster.;  day  labourers  cannot  be  got  under  is. ;  common 

ploughmen  have  raifed  their  wages,  from  40s.  and  a  pair  of 

ikoes,  to  5K  Snerling ;  and  they  who  fow  and  iigg,  exped  7 

goineas.    Women  (iervants,  who  ufed  to  be  fatisfied  with  20s. 

in  tbe  year,  will  not  now  engage  under  2I.  zos.  at  the  loweft, 

and  few  can  be  got  un  Jer  3I.   The  article  of  coals  is  very  much 

advanced  in  price  within  thefe  40  years :  A  cart  load  at  the 

hill  coft  only  is.  4d.  i  but  now,  for  the  fame  quantity,  3s., 

axid  ibmetimes  3s.  6d.  is  paid.     Indeed,  it  muft  be  owned, 

tbtt  the  expence  of  working  coal  is  greatly  increafed.     Two 

fire  engines  are  employed  for  that  purpofe,   in  this  pari(h,  by 

Mr.  Durham  of  Largo,  and  the  coal-hewers  receive  more 

wages.    Adjacent  to  one  of  thefe  fire  engines,  he  has  lately 

trefted  a  number  of  houfes  to  accommodate  the  workmen. 

Population* 


fQO  Stati/lkal  Ace^ufU 

Population. — ^Though  this  be  a  new  village,  the  nnml^ci'  of 
inhabitants  in  the  parifii  has  iiicreafed  Tcry  little  within  thefc 
13  years,  afid  has  decrcafed  confidcrably  within  thefe407ears, 
as  appears  fiom  the  fbUowing 

Population  Table  of  the  Parifli  of  CAHCiioir. 

Ildmber  of  foul*  m  1 755,           1095  Nuqibcr  pf  weavers,          -  .          ao 

Jlitto  in  I7JS,         -         -        1165                 •   ■    ■   taaors,        .  .         ^ 

wrigfitt,        .  .         f 

Decreafe  in  38  years,        130  Ihocmalcens  -           » 

Population  in  1780,         -  Iiji         maibn^        .        -         j 

—  I     ■       imitht,        -         -        6 

iscreafe  within  the  latt  13  ye»s,    14        ■  *«  drc^eri,        -         x 


The  above  decreaip  is  to  be  aUrib^tcd  to  the  many  mclo* 
fures  which  have  taken  plao€»  which  natttrallj  operauxA  dii- 
xninifiiing  the  aecefiity  of  having  9  number  of  fervants. 

Climate  and  £oif^/Kzii>j;.-^There.i9  no  difeafe  peculiar  to  thi« 
parifli ;  and  when  any  become  epid«mictl  in  the  .neighbour^ 
hoody  they  fpld^m  find  their  ^y  fo  hi^  as  to  seach  thie^  ez» 
cepting  the  fmall-pos  and  the  meafles,  which  the  ftraggling 
poor  fometimes  introduce.  The  climate  is  remarkably  healthy  \ 
and  as  an  evidence  of  this,  fix  p^rfons,  within  theft  40 
years,  were  al)  alive  about  the  fame  time,  aged  upwards  of 
90.  At  prefent,  a  few  can.  reck^on  80  years  \  aod  the  mini- 
fter  himfelf  (who  writes  this  narrative)  is  71  complete,  and 
has  been  41  years  in  the  parifii,  having  been  oidatnef  jo  March 
275a. 


Cburcb^-^Tht  ftipend  is  made  up  by  10  bolls  and  3  firlots 
of  bear  j  ^  bolls,  2  firlots  and  6  lippies  olfufficient  oats,  (the 

ezprefiion 


if  GmerfOh  Ckoj 

vxpieffion  in  the  decreet  of  locality),  and  by  98  bolls  a  firlots 
of  black  oats,  at  hdlf  pricCy  >vith  Z58U  133.  4d.  Scotch,  aa 
the  parfianage  tithes^  and  the  vicarage  of  St.  Andrews  and 
Cameron  parilhesi  the  coUeding  of  which  is  both  ezpeofive 
and  troublefome,  being  paid  bj  110  perfons,  and  fome  of  th^ 
articles  not  excefdbg  om$  fttmy  an4  ihr^e  faHhing$  /  a  verj 
trifling  income  \  Indeed,  under  the  denomination  of  commu^ 
nion  elements,  one  particular  farm  is  fitddled  with  la  bolls 
and  a  firlots  of  black  oats,  at  half  price  \  and  there  is.  a  fuffi. 
dencj  of  jinexhanfted  tithes  to  anfwer  a  tolerable  augmen« 
tation,  which  will  certainly  be  obtained,  whenever  an  incun^ 
^t  ihall  purfue  fw  it 

ltM#,  Scbwil^  ond  Paor.— The  valued  rent  is  $859!.  7s.  lod. 
Scotch,  and  yet  affords  no  more  than  zoo  merks  of  falary  to 
the  icboolmafter.— The  minifter  and  elders  have  hitherto  main- 
tained the  poor  by  the  weekly  colle&ions  in  the  church,  and 
die  emoUimenta  arifing  from  the  mort««loth. 


Vot.  !?U.  C  9  NUM. 


^o$  ^a^ica/  AccwMi 


NUMBER    XIV. 
PARISH   OF  KILMARONOCK, 

(jpmfij  and  Pr^jtery  pf  DunAarton^^Syftod  of  Glafgoj^ 

and  Ayr. 

By  thi  Rtv^  Mr*  Andrew  Whits,  Min\fitr^ 


jMaMtf,  ErtBum^  ^nd  ^xtnU. 

KILMARONOCK  fignifies  the  cell,  chapd,  or  bniylog^ 
place  of  Sc  Maronoch,  or  St.  Mtrnoch.  About  the 
middle  of  laft  centuxy,  g  confiderahk  part  of  the  parifli  was 
disjoined  from  Kilmarooock,  and  annexed  to  BonhilL  Its  pre- 
fent  extent  is  about  5  miles  iq  length,  and  from  ^  to  4  miles 
in  breadth.  From  the  Dumbarton  moors,  the  ground  has  in 
general  a  gentle  declivity  towards  the  north. 

River,  Lah^  HUls^  and  ^01/,— The  wmdings  of  <  he  river 
Endrici^  through  a  plain  of  more  than  3000  acres,  the  Houfe 
of  Buchanan  fituated  in  the  middle  of  the  plain,  with  the  ex« 
tenfive  lawns  and  forefis  belonging  to  the  Duke  of  Mootrofeg 
prefent  to  the  traveller  through  this  parifli  a  moft  beautifbl 
landfcape.  Lochlomond,  with  its  numerous  iflands  and  va« 
7ic|ate4  banksi  the  furrounding  hills,  and  towering  moun* 


bf  KitiiUironocL  itb^ 

tiiii^  with  the  dond-capt  Benlomond,  Gombine  t6  rendet  thd 
fetneiy  vety  pifturefdittc— On  th«  banks  of  the  Endrick,  the 
fid  is  a  deep  rich  loam,  verj  faTonrable  for  pafturage  or  til's 
hge  ;  on  the  rifing  gronnd  above  the  pltfint  the  foil  is  in  ge^ 
Kill  a  €old  wet  till ;  and,  towards  the  moors,  of  a  mofly 
^iiali^^ 

AgneMkmr€,i''-^r\M  there  are  feldom  ioffances  of  good  hnU 
haodry  on  finall  farms^  except  on  (bils  of  the  greateft  fertility^ 
or  where  there  is  a  command  of  manure,  is  a  maxim  which  \% 
verified  in  this  pariih.    Many  of  the  frrms  are  fo  (mall,  as  to 
yield  bnt  a  fcanty  fubfiftence  to  the  farmer  i  and  as  no  lime 
or  ftinrolating  manures  can  be  got  but  at  a  high  price,  little 
attention  is  paid  to  the  melioration  of  foil,  or  rotation  of  crops* 
From  the  price  of  hbbur  and  mannrei  compared  with  the  be^ 
iMfit  of  rearing  and  fattening  cattle,  fome  of  the  moft  judicious 
tenera,  in  ihia  psrilb  and  neighbottrhood^find  their  intereft  itl 
having  dieir  groands  in  paflnre  rather  than  tillage.    But  as 
■gricttkimS  is  acknowledged  to  be  the  mod  permanent  bafis  o£ 
die  weakh  of  a  coantry^  it  woidd  certainly  redound  to  the  ho- 
aonr  and  intereft  of  gentlemen,  who  are  poffefled  of  large 
sAates,  to  exhibit  d  pattern  of  iinpcoTemait ;  or,  if  this  is 
fiot  found  conyenient,  judicious  and  eitperienoed  farmers  might 
be  more  encoiAaged,  by  letting  I^Kfes  od  one  or  more  lives. 
Such  a  prafttce,  it  is  evident,  would  be  attended  vrith  thd 
inoft  beneficial  cdnfequences  ^  at  leafl,  it  ^buld  cerfaioly  fab  * 
prieferabfe  to  tiie  cuftomp  of  granting  leafes  of  arable  farmf 
Um  nioe^  or  even  nineteen  years  9  where  the  fiirmer  no  foonef 
begins  to  improve,  than  he  purfues  an  oppolite  fyftem,  of  ex^ 
haoftittg  hb  farm  by  too  frequent  cropping,  from  the  tde* 
ftat  he  may  be  tamed  out  at  the  expiration  ol  die  kafie,  woA 
a  fttai^gcr  who  oSsrs  more  sent  preCertoib 

•  ci 


ta/f.  SiatifUcal  AcctUfnt 

Mitts  Mi  Mmlturet. — ^Thcie  aiie  three  corii'^iuHt  in  die  p^ 
fifit ;  ^e  greateft  part  of  the  lands  are  thirled*  or  aftrided  f^ 
one  or  other  of  thefe  mills.  The  multure,  in  geiierd»  after  ik 
dedudion  of  feed  and  horfe^^com,  amounts  to  about  a  tweUU» 
fiart  of  the  crop ;  a  ferritude  not  Only  bighlj  oppreffite  tm 
tiie  farmer,  but  which  has  a  tendencj  to  prevent  em«latifniii> 
among  the  millers,  in  the  execution  of  their  bufinefs. 


tyberiiiu^Tht  Endrick  abounds,  at  eertain  feafiMt ,  < 
fiilmons,  pikes,  trouts,.  perches,  pars,  Sec.  Theee  is  an  cs» 
client  falmon  fitherj  iti  Lochlomond,  near  the  plaeo  where 
fhfe  Endriok  difeharges  iAto  the  bke.  Ai  the  falmoe  ait  «ot 
l>ow  interrupted  ia  their  courfe  up  the  Lcven,  as  fovmerlj-^ 
the  filheries,  on  the  banks  of  the  lake,  are  WuAj  toteaiovt 
^tj  profitable  to  the  diflferent  propcietorsk 

'  Po/ii£rf  Me.-^The  popubtion  of  this  parifi  is  en;  the  dtob 
Mine,  chieflj  o^ing  to  the  increafh  of  trade  and  manttfii£huee« 
ec  BonhUl  and  Balfroo,  where  many  of  the  people  have  fet* 
tied*  The  return  to  Dr.  Webfter,  in  1755,  ^*  *  ''93 
Ftx>m  an  enumeratioe  m  179%  there  were  found  to  be 
only        *-•--*.-       8te 

Oecreafe^        «        •        •        •        3^^ 

Of  thefe  theremrere,. below  to  jears  of  age,.  •  aie* 

The  number  of  families  was        -         «-        -        •        175 

No  authentic  account  can  be  giveh  of  the  births,  as  many  of 
the  people,  and  paf ticularlj  the  DiiTenters,  decline  to  hare 
them  inferted  in  the  pari(h  f^tfter. 

Serii^s  and  Reni.^'The  number  of  heritors  Is  54,  THe 
greateft  part  of  them  have  but  £aiall  properties ;  3%  are  refi* 

denty. 


toc»  wsA  aa  n<ni»refident.  The  vidued  rent  is  %y^.  i6s.  6d* 
Scoccfa  :  Xhe  real  rent  cannot  be  eafilj  afoertained,  as  a  great 
part  of  the  laoda  are  in  tlie  handa  of  tbe  proprietors. 

&m^h  and  Seiootf^^^Tb^  cimrch  has  much  the  appear^ 

tece  of  antiqiutj.     The  mft&fe  was  built  in  175X,  and  fince 

dwt  tk&e  it  has  been  enlarged  and  repaired%    The  ftipend,  hf 

a  late  augmentation!  beiUes  die  glebe,  is  6  chalders  of  meal^ 

I  dmlder  of  bear,  and  40U  58.  Sterling,  in  money,  xnclnding 

•onuDimion  elements.    Lord  Stonefield  is  patron.— -The  pa*' 

rodiinl  fchooknafter  has  too  merks  ftlarj.    The  vnmber  of 

feholan  is  ufuallj  abbnt  40.    His  living  is  onlj  about  15L 

per  anavm.     Befides  tht  parochial  fehool,  there  are  generalljr 

ether  two.     The  fchoolmafter  of  one  of  them  has  50  merka 

fidarj,  befides  fchool  fees.    If  feme  fuitabie  encouragement 

ia  not  foon  given  to  Ichoelmafters,  it  is  apprehended,  that^ 

in  manj  places,  the  education  of  children  will  be  totally 

■tKkftcd. 

Prices  ^  imb^ur^  Tud  l^^— -The  wages  of  a  good  ploughs 
man,  for  the  year,  befides  board  and  lodging,  are  from  81.  to 
taL  Sterling.  Thofe  of  a  woman  fervant,  for  the  year,  be« 
fides  board,  are  from  3!*  to  4l*  Sterling.  The  prices  of  pro« 
vifions  are  nearly  the  fame  with  the  Glafgow  and  Dumbanoir 
market8.-*Peats  are  the  common  fuel.  Coals  are  brooght^ 
fh)m  Kilpatrick,  a  difiaace  of  i  a  or  24  miles. 

Jtooir.— The  military  road  from  Stirling  to  Dumbarton^ 
after  croffing  the  Endrick,  by  an  excelknt  modern  bridge^ 
pafles,  from  £•  to  W.,  through  the  parifii.  There  is  alfo  ao^ 
excellent  turnpike  road,  which  is  now  nearly  completed,  lead^ 
ing  froA  this  place  Igr  £attf»  Kilpatrick>to  Glafgew* 

Springs 


lad  StStiJkdi  Accwfit 

Springs^  fVodit,  aiUl  Gami.^l^erj  field  ilmoft  ihtmAdM 
tlidi  perennial  fprings^  ooziiig  from  rock8  of  free-ftone.      Of 
thefe  St.  MartnoeVs  WM  is  the  moil  famous.    From   d^ 
fprlngs  coUeded,  fmall  rivalets  run»  interfefting  the  grounds, 
add  render  them  very  eoihrenieat  fcfr  paftiiTage.^^There  ^re 
federal  woods  in  the  parifli,  die  valoe  of  which  has  confider- 
ably  increafed  within  thefe  few  years.    The  woods  on  the 
basks  of  Lochlomondy  belonging  to  Mils  Buchanan  of  Dmio* 
kill,  and  John  Buchanan,  ECj.  of  Ardoch,-  abound  with  wood^' 
cocks,  in  the  beginning  of  winter^ — 'The  moors^  on  the  con-^ 
flnes  of  the  pariik,  are  much  reforced  to  by  the  fportfrnea,  ist 
the  hunting  feafon.     There  is  a  general  complaint,  that  the 
birds  are  much  foarcer  within  thefe  few  years.    This  maj* 
be  partly  accounted  for  from  the  increafe  of  the  ftock  of  (beep, 
and  the  fimall  indueement  the  lliepherds  have  to  preferve  tbo^ 
gtme. 

Antiquhiiu — I'here  are  the  remains  of  i  RomUh'  cKipeb^ 
At  Catter^  now  the  property  of  the  Duke  of  Momtrosb^ 
there  is  a  large  Artificial  modnd  of  earth,  where,  hi  anc^t 
tiroes,  courts  were  held  \  near  to  which  the  Duke  of  Letmoc 
had  a  place  of  refidence.  There  is  not  now  the  fimalleft  veC^ 
tige  of  the  building.  The  catftles  of  Kilmaronoek*  and  Bau 
turret  f ,  now  in  ruins^  appear  to  have  been  formeily  very 
magnificent  edifices. 

Mi/cellamous  Ob/ervaiions.'^'theTt  are  no  towns  nor  vib 
lages  in  the  patifli,  libr  any  manUfadures  carried  on.    l*he 


'The  prftpetty  of  RoSert  M*lOoiiiie, Efq.  of  MaiiSi. 
f  The  property  of  George  Hd4aoe,  Efq.  of  Gkneagle^r 


^  Ktlmaronodt.  1207 

«ca  are^  in  generail,  employed  in  haibandry^  but,  as  the 
farms  arc  fmall,  they  ar^  not  opprefled  with  hard  labonn 
The  iMromcn  are  engaged  in  fpinning  flax,  or  in  work  they 
receive  from  manufafiurers.  The  people  arc  grave  and  foberi 
hoc  fi^me  of  thepi  are  rather  difpoied  to  be  litigious*  • 


NUM- 


^  Abom  tke  tegliiaiag  of  tlie  prefcnt  iiCfitpry,  the  pirifli  was  nrach  eipofei 
to  tbe  de|itc«UtiaiL  of  certain  frcebqptcrt,  who  cafried  off  |he  pittle ;  fo  that  the 
bnaera,  fior  thdr  prote^ion,  engaged  to  pay  them,  or  othert, a  certain  tax,  i»iBe4 
fktek  ■«■/,  which  waa  regvlaxlj  exa^ed  ua;il  1/4^,  when  a  better  police  ww 


sol  Sk^/Hctd  Aceomt 

K  U  M  B  £  R   XV. 

PARISH  OF  AIRLY. 

C^ff/httty  •/  MngU^— County  cf  Tvrfar-Synoi  •/ jimguf 
I  and  Mtanu. 

Sjf  ibt  Rev.  Mr.  Jamzs  SroKiiOKTa,  Miaj/ftr, 

> 


Form^  Ext  mi  ^  and  Soil, 
'nnHE  form  of  this  pariik  is  an  irregular  panllellograa-   I9 
***     length  it  is  between  5  and  6  miles;  in  breadth  between 
3  and  4f  and  in  fome  places  more.    The  foil  is  varioust  go- 
Berallj  a  light  (and»  or  deep  Uack  mouldt 

Situation^  CUmaie  and  Difeafi4.^Tht  parifli  may  be  divid* 
cd  into  2  diftri&s.  Abont  two  thirds  of  it  lie  in  Strathmore, 
and  the  other  forms  the  higher  ground,  which  feems  to  ter- 
minate the  ftrath  on  the  N.  In  the  former  the  climate  is 
jnildeft  ;  but  the  air  is  inoft  pure  and  healthj  in  the  latter, 
and  freeft  from  the  fogs.  Rheumatifms,  flow  fevers,  and 
fometimea  agues  prevail,  efpecially  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
the  mofl/.  and  fwampy  ground. 

Snrfa00 


tf  Airly.  209 

Smrfaee  and  Cultivation — ^The  lower  part  of  the  parifb 
has  the  appearance  'of  being  flat ;  but  ia  maay  places  it  is 
▼erj  uneqaaL  About  a6  years  ago,  it  was  almoft  in  a  ftate 
of  oature,  vith  icarcely  an  enclofure  in  it:  NoW,  the  greateft 
paxt  is  cultivated  to  a  high  degree,  and  about  two  thirds  of 
it  fubftantiallj  enclofed,  either  with  flone  dikes,  ditch  and 
hedge,  or  ditch  and  paling ;  which  fences,  with  the  ftripes 
and  damps  of  planting,   well  drefled  fields,  and  bandfome 

farm  fteadings,  make  a  moft  beautiful  appearance. 

Acres. 
Of  arable  land  it  is  fuppoTed  there  are  aibont  -  4300 

Of  moify,  fwampy,  and  wafie  ground,  about         «  700 

And  in  planting,  about         .         .         -  *         .         900 

In  all,        ^         -         -         59^^ 

Produce  and  Catiffe,  lie. — ^The  common  returns  from  the' 
arable  ground*  in  oats  and  bear,  are  from  4  to  6  bolls  per 
acre;  and  of  wheat  from  8  to  lo.  There  is  but  little  haj 
made,  the  fkrmer  finding  his  account  rather  in  fattening  cattle.* 
Of  thefe  there  maj  be  reared  in  a  feafon  abont  500,  and  fat* 
lened  on  turnips  from  180  to  20c.  There  are  about  400  mord 
cattle  in  the.pariih.  The  mod^  of  culture  is  much  the  fame 
with  what  has  been  defcribed  in  other  improved  pariihes. 
Farmers,  who  pay  from  Z50I.  to  300I.  of  rent,  pofie(s  about 
one  half.  There  is  qne  farmer  in(leed  who  pays  more.;  but 
he,  with  other  two,  does  not  refide.  There  is  one  threlhiDg 
machine  in  the  pari(b.  There  is  onlj  one  flock  of  (beep.  The 
ewes  were  brought  from  Northumberland  about  a  year  and 
a  half  ago,  and  thrive  remarkably  well.  Their  fleeces  bring 
about  45.  each ;  and,  when  fat,  they  weigh  about  22  lb.  per 

Vol.  XI.  Dd  .  leg. 

^Tbe  pticctof  labour  tnd  provifioDt  are  touch  the  fame  -at  ki  the  nri^- 
bonriog  pariihet  of  Meigle  and  Kingoldmm. 


2IO  Statifilcal  Account 

legf    Their  namber,  aod  that  of  the  ploughs  and  miUsy  as  as 

follows : 

SHiBPt  Ploughs.  Mills. 


9  fcfire  ewei,     -  z8o 

9  fcore  lambs,    -  I  So 

7  fcorc  hogs,     -  X4C 

Total,       -  500 


Two-hoife  plM^hft    -  33 

Thrcc^horfc  ditio,      -  7 

Fourhorfe  ditto,      -  z6 

Total,           -  56 


Com  milk,  «>  4 

Flour  ditto,  -  i 

Lint  ditto,  r  X 

Total,  -  6 


Heritors^  Rmt^  and  Fuel. — The  heritors  are  7  in  nuaibcr  ; 
none  of  whom  reCde,  excepting  one  gentleman,  a  few  months 
in  fumm^r.  There  is  onljr  one  gentleman's  feat  in  the  parifli ; 
but  Airly  Caftle  will  foon  make  another. — The  valued  rent  is 
33x01.  Scotch.  The  real  rent  is  about  ^850!.  Sterling,  in- 
duding  what  arifes  from  mofs  and  marl.  The  former  will 
bring  for  per^ts,  the  chief  fuel  of  thp  lo\yer  clafs,  near  looL, 
and  the  latter  about  300I. 

Churchy  School^  and  Poor.— The  church  i^as  rebuilt  in 
X783y  and  the  manfe  in  1792*  The  Hying  is  85  bolls  3  fir- 
lots  z  peck  f  lippie  meal,  and  43  bolls  3  firlots  bear,  with 
about  9^.'  of  vicarage  tithes,  a  glebe  and  garden.  The  Earl 
of  Strathmor£  is  patron. — The  fchoolmafter's  falary  an4 
fcbool  fees  amount  to  about  x61.  or  i7l.-^The  poor  are  fup- 
plied  by  the  weekly  collections,  mortcloth  money,  and  the 
lAtereft  of  about  130I.  The  number  upon  the  roll,  during 
the  lad  10  years,  Has  been  from  4  to  9,  befides  many  who 
have  received  occafional  fupplies.  In  1782,  aol.  Sterling 
were  expended  in  purchafing  meal  for  the  mod  neceflitou^ 
families. 

Population* — The  number  of  pariibioners   has  decreafed 

within  thefe  40  years,  owing  to  the  improvements  of  land 

find  junftion  of  farms,  which  have  alfo  greatly  diminiihed  the 

number  of  inhabited  houfes. 

Pofu- 


^f  Airly. 


211 


P0PUI.ATION  Table  of  the  Parifli  of  Airlt. 

iWberof  TonU  in  Z755,     -    1 01  a        Members  of  the  Eftabliihed 


Dittoiai79ay    . 
DccFcsfey 


«6j 


147 


Church, 

- 

- 

854 

Secedersy 

^ 

- 

1 

Epifcopalians, 

- 

4 

S65 


— '  honlSes  uninliabited,  or  pulled  Peribns  under  10  years  of  age,     187 


down. 

70 

-     150 

wca«Bn»              * 

A9       - 

— —      ■          2©  and  50, 

-    ^^9 

taOof^ 

5 

-    no 

Iboenuken,              *  - 

4         - 

-     x6 

fimtfaa,            -              -          5        — 

-      3 

ttghf. 

9 

MAKaiAOtSy  BiMTHi,  aod  Bo&ials,  for  the  lail  xo  years. 


Yean 

Mar. 

Births. 

Bor. 

MaL 

Fem. 

178» 

14 

7 

Z6 

1783 

II 

8 

zz 

1784 

ZQ 

8 

za 

1785 

10 

Z8 

14 

2786 

zo 

n 

9 

1787 

7 

17 

Z5 

Z788 

zz 

20 

14 

1789 

8 

za 

14 

y9o 

7 

Z4 

8 

I7fi 

X3 

ZO 

14 

Tot. 

lOZ 

U4 

1*7 

m 

AiRLT  Castle. — Airly  Gallic,  which  gave  title  to  Ogilvjr 
Earl  of  Airly,  is  fituated  ia  the  N.  W.  comer  of  the  parifli, 
U  the  cooflttz  of  the  Melgin  aud  Ifla.  It  ia  built  on  a  pro« 
aioiitQry,  fbnned  by  tbefe  two  rivers,  aod  elevated  above 
tbeir  bed  more  than  zoo  feet.  It  has  been  a  very  large  and 
flrong  fortreCi,  feemingly  inacceflible  on  every  fide  but  the 
Southy  on  which  it  has  beenfecured  by  a  ditch  and  draw-bridge, 
niore  than  20,  perhaps  30  feet  wide,  and  a  wall  (the  front  of 

D  d  a  the 


2 1 2  Stati/iuai  Accmint 

the  callle),  lo  fieet  thick,  and  35  feet  high*.  For  romantie 
fitoation,  and  natural  beauties,  (fuch  as  the  Terpentine  wind- 
ings of  rivers>  trees  and  fhrobs  ftarting  fnom  the  brows  of 
fteep  rocks,  and  lining  the  fides  of  deep  dens),  it  exceeds  anj- 
thing  in  this  part  of  the  oountrj.  Till  within  thefe  3  yemrs 
it  has  remained  a  ruin ;  but  now  an  elegant  mddem  houfe, 
built  on  the  principal  foundations  of  the  caftle,  is  joft 
fiAifliing. 

Cajlle  of  Balrie^^^Tht  caflle  of  Balrie,  another  ruin,  fitip* 
ated  in  Strathmore,  has  been  built  upon  a  rifing  grdund,  to- 
wards the  W.  end  of  the  prefent  mofs  (formerly  a  large  loch^, 
containing  about  1 20  meres,  to  the  eaftward  of  the  caftle,  and 
6  or  8  to  the  weftwaxd.  The  prefent  proprietor,  about  xo 
years  aga,  dug  up  a  part  of  the  caufeway  which  led  into  the 
draw-bridge ;  fo  that  there  is  little  doubt  of  this  place  having 
been  once  very  flrong,  and  almoft  impregnable.  The  vralls, 
in  general,  are  about  8  feet  thick ;  but  the  houfe  has  been 
fmall,  and  rather  Intended  for  a  place  of  refuge  in  times  of 
danger,  than  the  conftant  refidenoe  of  a  family  f  • 

Mofs  of  Balrie* — ^The  mofs  of  Balrie  was  begun  to  be 
drained  about  40  years  ago^  and  has,^  at  various  intervals,  un- 
dergone d liferent  degrees  of  draining ;  the  great  objeCt  of 
which  has  no  doubt  been  the  immenfe  quantity  of  fine  ihell 
marl  found  In  it,  as  well  as  peats.     Th^  one  has  contributed 

as 

•  At  what  time  \i  wu  boilt,  h  not  fo  certain,  u  that  it  was  deftroyed  by  tbe 
Marquis  of  Argyll  in  1640 ;  wkich  was  repaid  in  kind  by  the  Mar^nis  of  MoMT- 
mofla  and  the  royaiifts,  a  few  yean  after,  when  they  burnt  I^vckaet  and 
DoLLAK,  and  overthrew  Lqchow,  Argyll's  principal  rciidence. 

f  The  neighbouring  lands,  with  the  caftle,  were  the  pro  perty  of  the  lall  JLord     ^ 
VifcGUOt  Fenton,  whofe  eldeft  daughter  married  into  the  family  of  SraATn^ 
atoas,  and  of  which  lands  the  Earl  of  Strathmore  is  fiill  foperior.    It  it  Gud  to 
iJr  more  than  Xoo  years  iincc  any  part  of  the  roof  of  the  cattle  wafftanding. 


rf  Airly.  215 

s  nmch  to  tlie  improTement  of  the  neighbouring  countrj,  as 
die  other  has  to  the  conofort  of  the  poor.  Several  thoufand 
Mb  of  marl  are  dug  out  of  this  mofs  jearlj,  which  in  price 
hs  arife^  firom  ^fiA.^  to  zed.  per  boll,  8  cubical  feet  being 
allowed  to  the  boll.  And  there  are  ftill  beds  of  marl  in  it 
16  fleet  perpendicuhri  bj  the  boring  iron,  and  the  bottom  not 
iimnd;  but  inpoffible  lo  work  ont,  without  more  water  being, 
tiken  off^  ipvhich  will  be  as  difficult  as  ezpenfive*.  Confider- 
aUe  quantities  of  marl  have  likewife  been  found  in  the  moiTes 
of  other  proprietors. 

NUM- 


*  Screral  very  Urge  deep*t  honu  have  been  foond  in  the  Mofs  of  Balzie  \ 
«K  of  which,  prcfented  hy  the  proprietor  to  the  Antiquarian  Sodety,  weighed 
aboat  ^Ih.  There  are  other  two  in  hb  pofleffion,  one  of  which  weight  aboof 
16Tb.  and  the  other  abont  I4lbw  In  the  year  1775,  the  tufk  of  a  wild  boar  was 
dag  np  upon  a  marl  fpade.  The  length  of  it,  from  the  fuppofed  itcat  in  the  jaw- 
bone^ia  4  inches;  the  greateft  breadth  near  two.  It  rcfembles  vtsy  much  th» 
cdoar  and  fabikuice  of  ivory,  but  is  faid  to  be  only  bone. 


214  Statifiical  Aaount 


'        NUMBER    XVI. 


PARISH    OF  DUNNOTTAR. 

(Couniy  of  Kincardim — Prejbytery  of  Fardonu^Sjuod   of^ 
Angui  and  Mtartu^ 


By  the  Rev.  Mr.  James  Walker,  Mimijler. 


Name^  Extent^  and  Situatioa. 

DUNNOTTAR  is  Taid  to  have  been  anciently  vfrittcn 
Dunotyr^  which  is  of  Gaelic  original^  derived  from  the 
fituation  of  the  old  callle  bearing  that  name,  the  ruins  <^ 
which  ftsind  upon  a  rock  on  the  coaft,  almoft  infulated  from 
the  land. — ^This  parifh  is  nearly  of  a  triangular  form,  extend- 
ing about  4  miles  on  each  fide.  It  is  divided  almoft  into  two 
equal  parts,  bj  a  den,  pc  hollow,  which  takes  its  origin  at 
the  N.  £.  angle ;  and,  widening  as  it  reaches  the  fouthern 
boundary,  gives  beginning  to  the  great  How^  or  Holiow  of  the 
Meams  ;  which  alb  extends  through  the  Ihire  of  Angus, 
under  the  name  of  Strathmore ;  being  bounded  all  along,  on 
the  W.,  by  the  chain  of  the  Grampian  mountains,  which 
reach  obliquely  acrofs  the  ifland,  from  this  neighbourhood  to 
the  weft  coaft  *• 

Surface^ 

*  Here  it  may  be  obferTed,  tluit  along  this  hollow  »ppein  to  have  been  the 

iinc 


ofDunnoitar.  215 

Surface^  Soil,  and  Minerals. — The  farface  of  this  parifh, 
in  general^   is  uneven,  with  fmall  rifings,  but  no  confiderable 
tin.     The  foil  is  various :  Toward  the  fea  coafi,  loamy  and 
dajey ;  in   the  middle,  wet  and  mollj ;  towards  the  Weft, 
gravelly  mnd  moorillu     The  Jlraia  appear,  both  from  the  fea 
coaft  and  inland  quarries,  to  ^ep  toward  the  S«  W. ;  which 
obferratioa  is  alfo  applicable  to  all  the  country  round.  The  foil 
is  full   of  round  fmall  ftones,  of  various  kinds,  having  the 
appearance  of  being  water-worn.     Thefe  ftones  are  very  ufe- 
fol  for  improvement,  in  filling  drains  in  wet  land,  almoft 
every  field  having  fnfiiciency  in  itfelf ;  and  the  harbour  is 
fuTTounded  with  excellent  free-ftone  quarries,  of  a  moft  dur- 
able quality,  which  prove  extremely  valuable  for  building. 

• 
Climate^  D\/eafBs^  Rivubts^  \3c. — The  air  and  climate  here 
are  much  the  fame  as  along  the  whole  eaft  coaft ;  variable, 

giving 

fiar  of  Biarch,  which  ill  invaden  from  Eoghnd  followed,  at  the  diifereot  periodt 
wb^".  they  0Ter-ran  Scotland.  To  this  they  were  particularly  direded,  by  th» 
fordable  paiTages  of  the  river  Tay,  above  the  flow  of  the  tide  at  Perth,  and  coiw 
fined  by  the  Grampian  chain  on  the  weft.  The  progreia  of  the  Romaxii,  parti- 
cohrly,  in  this  diredion,  is  evident,  from  a  regular  fcries  of  encampmcnu  all 
the  way  along  the  foot  of  the  hills.  And  it  appears  probable,  that  in  this  nelgh* 
boorhood,  where  the  hills  join  with  the  fea,  the  famous  battle  was  fought,  nar- 
rated by  Tacitus,  of  the  Scotch,  under  Gai.oacos,  with  the  Romans, ilopt  at 
the  end  of  their  progrefs,  by  the  mountains  and  moraffes;  which  are  defcribed 
as  being  at  the  foot  of  the  Grampians,  in  fight  of  the  Roman  fleet.  But  at  no 
other  place  in  Scotland  do  the  Grampian  hills  approach  the  fei.  And  in  the 
neighbouring  parifh  of  FetlerelTo,  about  three  miles  to  the  northward  of  this 
place,  there  are  the  remains  of  a  very  Urge  irregular  camp  in  the  hills,  flrongly 
entrenched  oo  the  quarter  next  the  fea.  This  would  feem  to  have  belonged  to 
tbe  Scotch  army ;  whereas,  at  the  diftance  of  about  two  miles  farther  down,  doCe 
to  a  flat  fea  beach,  there  were  evident  veftiges  of  a  Roman  caop,  a  few  years 
ago,  though  they  are  now  defaced  by  the  improvement  of  the  ground.  And 
upon  a  moor  nigh  to  the  foppofed  Scotch  camp,  there  are  a  nnmber  of  tomnls, 
indicating  it  to  have  been  the  field  of  battle* 


a  i6  Sfatiftlcal  Account  ^ 

f  iviog  occafion  to  rheumatifm  and  confumpdon ;  but  not  re- 
tnarkable  for  any  other  difeafe.     Agues  are  here  quite  un- 
4Lnown»  though  prevalent  through   all   the   pariihes  to    the 
dfouthward. — No  rivers  run  through  this  pari(h,  but  feveral 
imall  rivulets,  which  chieflj  find  their  way  into  the  Carrom 
upon  the  N« ;   the  reft  of  the  water  running  toward    the 
fouthern  boundary^  and  forming  there  a  fmaU  ftream.      la 
the  Carron  there  are  excellent  trouts,  and  at  its  mouth  a  fal^ 
moo  fiihing  in  the  fea,  t)f  which  the  produce  is  verjr  incoo- 
fiderable, 

Sea  Coqfl  and  Fowls. — ^The  Tea  coaft  is  very  1>oIdy  formed 
-of  fiht  plumlh^udding  rock^  and  containing  feveral  deep  caves. 
The  moft  remarl^able  part  of  the  coaft  is  called  FowtsJfeugb, 
"ribout  ti  mile  in  extent,  and  50  fathoms  high,  bhabited  by 
fea  fowls  i  fuch  as  gulls,  coots,  and  kittjweaks,  in  fuch  num- 
bers, that  it  is  an  employment,  during  the  fummer  months, 
Co  climb  thefe  perpendicular  rocks,  by  the  help  of  .a  rope  tied 
round  a  man's  middle,,  in  which  he  is  let  down  from  the  top 
«to  catch  the  fowls.  The  feathers  and  down  of  thefe  fowls  are 
in  great  demand  ;  and  the  kittyweaks,  whofe  flefh  resembles 
that  of  folan  geefe,  are  fold  at  high  prices  in  the  neighbour- 
ing towns.  A  rent  of  about  al.  los.  is  paid  to  tlie  proprietor 
for  the  liberty  of  catching  the  fowls.:  And  €  men  are  com- 
monly employed  in  the  work  $  5  of  thefe  being  required  to 
lc;t  down  and  draw  iip  the  perfon  in  the  rope.  Thefe  fea  fowls 
are  all  migratory,  appearing  in  April,  and  removing  fouth- 
Ji«ard  in  JSeptember. 

Fijb  and  Kelp. — The  fifliing,  upon  this  part  of  the  coaft, 

Ixgs  much  declined  for  fome  years  paO,  the  fea  not  producing 

fiear  its  ufual  quantity  :  But  what  are  caught,  are  of  excellent 

^quality.     Three  boats  and  a  yawl,  with  -6  men  in  each,  are 

•  commonly 


^f  Dunnottar.  217 

fcomntodljr  tihplojed  from  this  parifli.  TIte  filfa  caught  are  cod, 
ting,  haddocks,  Whitings,  and  flounders  \  befides  a  cotiltderable 
quaotity  of  crabs  and  lobilers,  which  are  moftlj  confumed  in 
ihe  ticighbourhood.  Some  kelp  is  made  along  this  coaft, 
once  in  three  jears,  the  fea  weed  requiring  that  time  to  grow* 
But  the  quantity  is  very  iuconfiderable. 

Town  and  Harlour. — .At  the  N.  E-  comer  of  the  p^ariffa, 
where  the  Carrbn  runs  into  the  fea^  is  fituated  the  fmall  town 
of  Stok£Rav£K,  or  Stonehive.  The  principal  circumftance 
obfervable  with  refpe£b  to  it^  is  its  harbour,  for  which  there 
is  the  beft  natural  fituation.  It  is  a  bafon,  fheltered  from  the 
S.  £•  by  a  very  high  rock,  which  fiands  out  into  the  fea  } 
and  on  the  N.  £•  there  is  a  head^  or  qtlay^  which  in  fome 
me^&fure  defends  it  from  that  quarter.  At  high  tides  there  is 
a  depth  of  22  feet  wHter  at  the  entrance.  If  the  prefent  qiiay 
^ere  carried  farther  out,  and  another  built  oppofite  to  it,  vef- 
fels  could  lie  in  perfe£t  fafety.  And  it  would  be  of  the  utmoft 
importance  to  all  the  {hipping  upon  the  E.  coaft  of  Scotland, 
^hat  fome  improvement  of  this  kind  were  made  :  For  there 
is  not  a  harbour  betwixt  the  Frith  of  Forth  and  Cromarty, 
that  veSeis  in  diftrefs  can  fo  eafily  get  into  ;  as  all  t\\t  fea« 
faring  people  can  bear  witnefs.  A  fmall  aid  from  gorem- 
ment  would  bte  requifite  for  this  improvement,  to  be  joined 
to  the  (hore^does  and  private  contributions^ 

Commerce  and  Government — ^There  is  very  little  trade  here, 
except  by  3  or  4  fmall  velTels,  which  are  employed  for  fup- 
plying  the  neighbourhood,  in  bringing  lime  and  coals  from 
Sunderland  and  the  Frith  of  Forth,  with  a  few  cargoes  of 
Wood,  iron  and  flax  from  the  Baltic**     The  town  eonfifts  o£ 

Vol.  XL  E  e  feu»\ 

*  Thit  town,  at  well  at  the  reft  of  the  pariib,  bt»  labovrcd  under  a  fpm 

dUadvutift 


2i8  Statijlical  Account 

feus  granted  by  the  Earls  Mati/cbaloi  Scotland*  within  wbofe 
cftate  it  was  fituated.  It  is  a  burgh  of  baronj,  of  which  tha 
jurifdidion,  bj  charter,  is  vefted  in  magiSrates,  chofen  by 
the  fuperior  and  feuers.  The  principal  fupport  of  the  town 
has  been  derived  from  the  iheriff  court  of  the  county,  which 
has  its  feat  here  ;>-retail  (hops  for  the  accommodation  of  the 
neighbourhood  ; — commiffion  upon  flax  given  out  to  fpin  for 
inanufaftures  in  Aberdeen  and  Montrofe  ; — and  the  provifion 
for  (hipping,  which  occaiionallj  put  in  here,  or  are  detained 
by  contrary  winds* — The  number  of  procurators,  or  attor- 
nies,  before  the  fheriff  court,  is  4. 

MaMufaShires^'-^ln  point  of  natural  fituatipn,  no  place  has 
greater  advantages,  for  the  eflablifliment  of  manufadures, 
than  Stonehaven,  having  a  good  fea  port,  an  excellent  com- 
mand of  running  water,  a  populous  diftrift  of  country  around 
it,  and  abounding  with  the  bed  fpinners  f  •  In  the  courfe  of 
lad  year  (1792),  fome  branches  of  manufadure,  of  the  Ofna- 
burgh,  iheeting,  linen  cheque,  and  cotton  woolfey  kinds,  have 
been  here  fet  on  foot,  chiefly  by  merchants  in  Arbroath^ 
iThefe  manufa£l:ure&  are  as  yet  but  in  their  infancy  ;  but  are 

propofcd 


^Ifadvantagc  for  nany  yean  paft,  Sy  Setng  part  of  the  forfeitures  of  17  rj,  ioVi 
to  the  York  BuUdiog  Company.  The  alEuxii  of  that  Company  having  faUea 
into  diforder,  about  the  year  1740,  ever  fince  that  period  there  has  been  no  fu- 
perior to  forward  the  trade,  and  fupeiintend  the  police  of  Stonehaven :  And  few 
of  iu  inhabitants  being  poflefled  of  any  ftock,  little  was  to  be  czpeded  from 
them.  Hence  all  improvement  was  prevented,  and  matUrs  continued  in  th% 
finne  ilate  of  backwardnefs. 

f  A  confiderable  manufadure  of  fatl-cloth  was  carried  on  here  Ibme  yeart 
ago,  by  a  merchant  in  Aberdeen,  which  employed  about  50  looms  within  this 
town,  and  15  in  the  neighbourhood.  But  though  attended  with  great  fnccelt^ 
it  was  given  up,  upon  the  death  qf  that  gentleman,  and  an  end  put  to  the  trade 
•f  the  place  ilcGe  that  period. 


^f  Dunnottar.  219 

^opofed  to  be  confiderably  extended.     Their  prefent  ftate  is 
as  follows : 

The  number  of  weMws^emploftd  it  4»,  who  earn,  at  «b  myerage» 

8a.  6d.  per  week,  amouoting  in  the  year  to        ••        •        -     L.  928  4  e 

•Six  fiaxdreflert,  at  zos.  per  week,  amounting  to  -  -  1^6  o  • 

TweWc  labourerf,  $%.  per  week,  ....      1^5  o  o 

Total  wages  paidtomanufadnren  in  the  year,    -    X^  Z140    4    • 

And,  fincc  the  comtpencement  of  the  prefent  year  (1793), 
another  manu£a£lare  of  fail-cloth  has  been  eftabliihed,  coo- 
taining  12  looms,  requiring  a  capital  of  300I.  each.  Sut  to 
ihew  to  what  extent  the  manofadures  might  be  carried  here« 
it  is  to  be  obferved,  that  there  are  wages  given  to  fpinners  in 
fills  neighbourhood,  bj  perfons  in  Stonehaven,  who  give  out 
flax  for  manufafturers  here  and  in  other  places,  to  the  annual 
anount  of  a652L  9s.  6d.  Of  this  fum,  a  large  proportion  is 
on  account  of  manufadures  in  Aberdeen,  Montrofe,  and  PiX^ 
broath,  which  have  the  burden  of  carriage  of  the  flax  and  re«- 
turn  of  the  yarn,  to  and  from  thefe  towns,  at  the  refpedive 
diftances  of  15,  2a,  and  36  miles.  To  Montrofe  alone,  there 
are  fent,  weekly,  at  an  average,  30  cwt«  of  yarn  throughout 
^e  year. 

Manner  of  Livifig.^'Tht^j\e  of  living  here  is  much  above 

'<what  might  be  fuppofed  in  fo  fmall  a  town,  poiTefled  of  fo 

little  trade.     But  it  is  much  to  be  regretted,  that  among  the 

tradefmen,  and  }ower  fort  of  people,  the  praftice  of  drinking 

fpirits  is  much  too  prevalent,  to  the  ruin  of  their  morals, 

health,  and  circumflances.   The  native  beverage  of  our  coun. 

try*  ale,  is  defpifed,  though  it  is  fitted  to  fupport  the  labourer 

for  his  work,  and  encourages  agriculture  and  manufadures^ 

while  fpirits,  which  enervate  body  and  mind,  alfo  confume 

ihe  profit  of  labour* 

£  e  ^  JZ^anf, 


220  Statiftical  Acccount 

fi^evenue^  Imports^  V^.-^The  pvUic  refcnae  of  SMMliaviei| 

confifts  chiefly  of  the  flu>re  dues,  amounting  annually  to  ab^u^ 
45I.,  in  which  there  has  been  a  very  great  incrcafc  of  late 
years,  from  the  great  qaamity  of  Hme  brought  by  fca,  for 
the  improvement  of  Tands  in  the  neighbourhood* — Upon  ai^ 
average  of  3  years,  10,566  bolls  yearly  have  bc^n  imported 
from  Sunderland  and  from  the  Frith  of  Forth,  each  boll  be- 
ing 118  Scotch  pints.  The  reft  of  the  revenue  arifes  from 
4  fairs  in  the  year,  and  foroe  tmall  patches  of  ground,  pro« 
ducing  together  about  20I.  more.  This  fum,  if  properly  ap- 
plied,  would  do  much  to  the  improvement  of  the  harbour : 
fiut,  till  of  late  years,  it  has  been  levied  to  little  account* 
From  this  fund,  however,  the  town  has  lately  been  provided 
in  excellent  water,  conveyed  in  leaden  pipes ;  the  ftreets  pui; 
in'  good  repair ;  and  a  new  fteeple  built,  with  a  public  clock. 

Fuel. — ^No  lime-ftone  or  coals  have  ever  been  difcovered  ii^ 
this  neighbourhood;  nor  are  there  the  leaft  indications  of 
them.  The  general  fuel  of  Stonehaven,  is  coals,  however, 
which  are  brought  partly  from  the  Frith  of  Forth,  and  partly 
from  Newcaftle  and  Sunderland :  The  Scotch  coal  at  the 
iifual  rate  of  8s.  64.  per  ^oll,  of  72  done  ;  the  Englilh  at  38. 
for  24  ftone  avoirdupoife ;  of  which  the  laft  are  found  cheapei^ 
and  moft  econonaical  *.  9iit  while  coals  arefo  heavily  taxed, 
the  greateft  bar  is  laid  in  the  way  of  manufaflures  and  im- 
provement; which  is  bene  the  more  fenfibly  felt,  as  our  neigh- 
bours in  Forfar0iire,  {rom  a  local  exception,  are  free  from 
this  obnoxious  tax,  no  duty  being  paid,  on  Scotch  coal,  all 
along  the  coaft  of  Fife  and  Angus,  till  they  are  brought  ta 
the  borders  of  this  county.  But  it  is  with  great  pleafure  we 
underftand,  that  government  have  it  in  view  to  grant  us  re- 
lief in  this  neceiTary  article.     Peats  in  this  neighbourhood 

•re, 

^  Id  X793,  Scotch  coal  wai  up  at  Iit.>  and  Engliihat  31.  6<l. 


tf  Dunnottar^  jjl 

arc  fe  very  diftanl  (about  6  miles),  that  every  perfon  is  coa«» 
vioced  that  coals,  even  high  priced  as  they  are,  yield  thQ 
d^eapeft  fir«. 

P^puLuiom — ^NotwithAandingallthe  difadvantagcs  this  pa- 
rifii  bas  long  laboured  under,  there  has  been  a  gradual  increafo 
of  the  population  within  thefe  40  years,  as  appears  from  the 
foUowtng  comparative  view  of  feveral  ezac^  enumerations, 
taken  at  different  periods. 

Iiurea/k 
In  X7i5.  the  total  number  of  fouls,  returned  to  Dr.  Wcbftcr,  was    1570 
)n  177a,  there  were  tn  the  town,    923,  in  the  country,  939;  total  zt6}     %^% 

In  1775,  — ' 917, 94»;  1869        7 

In  T791,-..- loia, ^ 894; X906      37 

U  179a,— J07a, S90; 19^      5d 

Total  inacafe  within  thefe  40  years,        •         •        •        31^^ 

It  appears,  however,  that  the  number  has  been  almoft  fta« 
tionary  for  the  lad  20  years,  with  only  a  fmall  addition  in  the 
town,  of  late,  owing  to  the  eftabliibment  of  the  new  mapu- 
fa&ares,  and  a  trifling  decreafe  in  the  country,  from  the  ex« 
pulfion  of  cottagers  by  the  farmers. 

It  has  been  found  impoffible  to  keep  bills  of  mortality^i 
with  any  accuracy,  owing  to  feveral  circumftances.  The  peo-. 
pie  never  were  in  the  praAice  of  regularly  giving  in  their 
childrcns  names  for  regiilration,  particularly  the  Diflenters ; 
and  fince  the  impofition  of  the  late  tax,  hardly  any  have  ap- 
plied for  that  purpofe**    The  number  of  births  entered  on 

the 

*  Ia  the  law  refpeding  the  tax  on  births  aii6  burials,  there  appears  a  defe A 
of  not  oading  a  compulfatory  upon  people  to  regiftrate,  agreeable  to  the  fpirit 
9f  the  lA,  by  empowcdng  the  keeper  of  each  pariih  regifter  to  f ae  dcfaulten, 


^21  Stsni/ilcal  Account 

the  regiftcr,  has  generally  been  only  about  25.   The  nnmbtfr  cf 
marriages  is  afcertained^  by  the  proclamation  lift,  to  be,  at  an 
average,  15.     A  regifter  of  deaths  has  never  been  attempted 
here ;  and  to  attain  ahy  accuracy  in  it*  would  be  ftill  more 
difScult  than  with  refpe^t  to  births*  as  not  one  hidf  of  -the 
people  who  die  in  this  parifli  are  buried  within  it,  but  are 
carried  to  the  neighbouring  parifh  of  Fetterefib,  partly  to  the 
church-yard  there,  and  partly  to  ftbe  burying  gtound  of  aa 
old  chapel  within  its  bounds  f  • 

Produce. — ^With  refpefi  to  prodpce^  this  pariQi  is  roore 
than  fuf&cient  to  fupply  itfelf,  affording  confiderable  quantities 
of  bear,  barley  and  meal,  to  the  Aberdeen  market,  which 
forms  ihe  fl^andard  price  here,  after  deducing  the  expence  of 
cs^riiage.   Since  the  late  faleof  the  York  Buildings  Company'^ 

^  ^andsi 

pnd  recover  a  penalty :  whereas  it  \%  onlj  cnaAed,  that  every  perfcn  erawmg  % 
regiHration,  iliall  pay  fucb  a  tax.  A  Dew  regulation  to  this  piirpoic  i^pears  tt 
\t  a  very  proper  improvement  of  our  police. 

f  from  the  flightcft  obfcryation,  the  deaths  appear  confiderably  to  exceed 
the  births,  on  account  of  numbers  of  old  people,  and  perfont  decayed,  boUi 
jn  health  and  circtraifi antes,  whoo'etire  to  Stonehaven  from  the  neighbouring 
jdarilhcs,  when  unable  to  hold  poirciBonK  in  the  country.    It  is  alfo  obfervablr, 
that  notwithfiaoding  the  decay  of  manufadures  forfeveral  years,  already  mcn» 
tioned,  yet  the  population  of  Stonehaven  not  only  continued  nearly  the  fame, 
t)ut  alfo  a  coniidcrable  addition  of  buildings  has  fpread  out  from  it,  into  the  neigh- 
^uring  parifli  of  Fettereflb,  which  is  feparated  from  it  only  by  the  Carrog« 
This  circumftance  is  to  be  explained  from  the  {late  of  the  adjacent  conntry. 
Upon  the  fale  of  the  York  Building  Company's  lands  in  the  pariihes  of  Don« 
nottar  and  Fettereflb,  a  confiderable  revolution  took  place,  by  eje^d  cottagers 
zemoving  from  tbe  country  to  the  town.    And  from  the  progrefs  of  impnive- 
inent  upon  thefe  eftateSjHnce  that  time,  not  only  tbefe  perfbns  find  Mnployment 
a«  day- labourers,  but  a  number  of  Grangers  from  other  plaees  have  been  dntvA 
liitiier  for  the  fame  purpofc.    All  thefe  have  fought  refidence  hi  Stonehaven; 
>vhich  has  occafiened  the  increafe  of  houfes,and  kept  up  the  population  wit^Qt 
ihc  alTiAance  of  mannfadurcs  or  trade. 


of  Dunnottar.  223 

Isods,  enclofing  and  planting  have  been  rapidly  carried  for^ 
ward.  Hard  wood  and  larches  are  found  to  fucceed  beft,  par* 
ticfdarlj  the  latter.  Scotch  firs  are  mod  backward. — ^Th« 
moft  general  crops  of  grain  are  bear  and  oats>  with  very  little 
bailey,  and  no  wheat.  Turnips  and  potatoes  are  likewib 
verj  much  cultivated.  The  culture  of  turnips  particularly, 
has  been  greatly '  extended,  which  here  fucceed  remarkaUj 
well.  Formerly  they  wer^  chiefly  ufed  for  fattening  cattle; 
bat,  of  late,  the  high  prices  have  induced  moft  people  to  ufs 
tbem  for  rearing.  They  are  commonly  (own  in  broad  caft 
with  moft  advantage,  the  foil  being  generally  dry,  A  con- 
(derable  quantity  of  clover  and  rye-grafs  is  now  (own ;  but 
sot  fo  much  as  is  requifite  for  good  farming  ;  the  horfes  being 
chiefly  fed  upon  ftraw,  and  the  ground  not  fufficiently  refted 
after  improvement  by  fallow  and  lin^. 

Stati  of  Property. — A  very  accurate  map  of  this  county 
was  executed  in  the  year  1774  ;  by  which  it  appears,  that  in 
the  pariih  of  Dunnottar  there  are  6418  Scotch  acres ;  of 
which  about  3600  may  be  fuppofed  arable,  the  reft  being 
green  paflure  and  moor.  The  greateft  part  of  the  land  lies 
open;  and  much  of  it  is  let  in  fmall  parcels,  from  4  to  10 
Mres.  The  rent  is  various,  according  to  the  diflTerent  foils 
and  the  diftance  from  Stonehaven,  being  from  8s.  to  2I.  pejr 
acre.  Few  farms  are  above  50I.  rent.  The  whole  rent  of  the 
pariih  is  about  ax  col.  The  heritors  are  4  in  number,  cf 
whom  only  x  refides  within  its  bounds. 

Catih^ — ^The  labour  is  here  chiefly  performed  by  horfes ; 
there  being  x88  work  horfes  in  the  parifti,  and  only  24  oxen. 
"-There  is  only  i  farm  in  the  parifli  with  a  fiock  of  iheep  ; 
))ttt  they  have  never  been  attended  with  any  fuccels. 

PriciS 


C44  Siatifiical  Account 

Prices  of  XflJo«rr.— The  inhabitants  of  the  countrj  pariJb 
iirc  inoftly  farmers  and  cottagers,  with  very  few  tradefmcn  ; 
thefe  latter  commonly  refiding  in  Stonehaven.  Of  late,  the 
praftice,  of  farmers  letting  ground  to  cottagers  who  do  their 
work,  is  much  laid  afide ;  and  they  either  keep  their  fervants 
in  their  own  families,  or  depend  upon  labourers  from  the 
town.  The  ordinary  wages  of  a  farm  fervant  or  ploughman^ 
living  in  his  mailer's  family,  are  from  61.  to  7L  per  annum : 
The  wages  of  a  labourer,  per  day,  from  icd.  to  is.,  without 
Tiduals ;  and,  in  harveft,  the  fame  wages,  with  viduals.  The 
women,  in  this  neighbourhood,  are  generally  employed  in  fpin* 
ning  flas:  to  mtnufafturers  in  Aberdeen  and  Montrofe,  as  well 
AS  Stonehaven,  by  "^hich  they  gain,  in  ordinary  times^  about  ^ti 
per  week.  But  of  late,  the  price  of  fpinning  has  fo  much 
advanced,  by  the  increafed  demand,  that  many  reach  as  high 
as  4S.  per  week.  Of  confequence,  the  wages  of  women  fer^ 
Vants  are  alfo  raifed  to  about  2I.  ics„  and  31.  per  annam^ 
and  xl.  for  harved  work,  when  engaged  for  by  itfelf. 

Poor.-— Since  the  intr6du&ion  of  improvements  in  land,  an  j 
the  eftablifhment  of  manufaAures  in  this  neighbourhood,  the 
number  of  poor  in  Stonehaven  has  greatly  increafed ;  parily 
owing  to  the  cottagers  and  old  people  being  banilhed  from 
the  country  around,  and  repairing  to  the  town  ;  and  partly 
to  the  luxury  too  commonly  introduced  by  high  wages  among 
labourers  and  tradefmeo  ;  fo  that  they  ftill  rife  in  their  ex- 
pences  above  the  proportion  of  their  gains.  The  number  of 
poor  now  receiving  alms  in  this  pariih  is  71,  of  whom  35  are 
refident  in  the  country,  and  46  in  the  town.  The  annual 
fum  expended  Upon  them,  of  public  charity,  is  about  50I., 
of  which  3al.  arifes  from  the  weekly  coliedions  at  the  church, 
upon  an  average  ef  feveral  years  paft ;  and  the  reft  from  in- 

terefi 


^   of  biinnbttaK  1225 

Hreft  of  a  fum  funded  for  their  benefit,  and  the  feveral  in- 
cidents in  the  parilh,  fuch  as  fines,  proclamation  of  hanns, 
thd  burials.  In  the  country,  the  poor,  being  generally  fober 
and  induftrions,  earn  a  large  (hare  of  their  own  maintenance* 
In  the  town,  befides  relief  from  the  public  funds,  the  poor 
i^ceive  frequent  fupplies  from  charitable  perfons,  in  private, 
otfaerwife  a  legal  aiTeflinent  would  be  necefiary ;  which  has 
never  yet  taken  place  in  this  part  of  the  country. 

Ecekfiqfiical  Staie  and  SthooL — ^The  cftablilhed  clergy mln» 
by  a  late  augmentation,  has  a  living  of  about  X15I.  value, 
befides  a  gliebe,  which  might  rent  at  about  8h  The  church 
tvas  rebuilt  in  1782^  and  the  manfe  in  1786.  In  Stonehaven 
thefe  are  2  diiTenting  meetings,  onfe  of  the  qualified  Epifco^ 
palians  of  the  Church  of  England  ;  the  other  of  Scotch  Epif- 
copalians* ;  to  each  of  which  belong  about  1 50  fouls.— The 
parifli  fchool  is  placed  in  Stonehaven,  where  there  is  a  very 
confiderable  number  of  fcholars^  having  fometimes  amounted 
to  ICO.  l*hefalaty  and  emoluments  may  be  abont  40I. ;  and 
in  fome  jears  haVe  amounted  to  30I.  in  proportion  to  the 
number  of  fcholars,  and  the  adivity  of  the  teacher  f  • 

Vol.  XI.  Ff  Roadt^ 

*  The  Epifcopal  oonjaratit  pHnciple  was  ihoft  prevalent  iti  this  neighbourhood, 
for  many  years  after  the  late  rebellions,  owing  to  attachment  to  the  forfeited 
MaeischaI  family.  But  the  fpirit  of  that  fcA  has  here  fubGded,  as  well  as  in 
bther  placets  and  the  people  of  the  difierent  communions  live  together  in  the 
greateft  harmony.  As  an  iiiftance  of  the  liberality  of  mind  fubfifiing  ambn^f 
Uiem,  in  the  year  1 78a,  when  the  pariih  church  was  rebuilding^  the  clergyman, 
with  the  congregation,  had  accels  to  the  qualified  Episcopal  meeting- honfe,  to 
perform  divine  fervice;  and  the  two  congregations  were  blended  at  each  of  the 
ttrnctu 

t  There  are  few  objeds,  that  merit  more  df  the  pubb'c  attention  than  the  edu« 
cation  of  youth,  and  the  improvement  of  por  fchools,  which,  in  general,  through- 
^t  Scotland,  are  in  a  hmcntablc  fituatioa.     Ii  would  fecm,  that  by  attempting 

to 


^26  StaiiftUal  Account 

.  Roads. — Two  highways  pars  through  thi5  pariih  ;  the  out 
direaij  for  Perth,  the  other  bebg  the  poll  road  from  Edin* 
burgh  along  the  coafi,  by  Pundee,  Arbroath,  and  Montrofe  f 
which  two  roads,  uniting  at  Stonehaven,  are  continued  in  one 
to  Aberdeen.  It  mud  be  acknowledged,  that  no  highways 
in  Scotland  are  in  worfe  condition }  the  ftatute  labour  having 
been  very  imperfeSly  applied,  although  there  is  reafoo  to 
believe,  it  would  have  been  tolerably  fufficient  for  their  fup* 
port,  if  commuted  for  money  s  the  country  being  populous, 
and  tlieie  being  no  great  towns  to  occaGon  heavy  carriages. 
The  fame  remark  may  be  applied  to  the  greateft  -^part  of 
this  country  But,  by  the  ruinous  date  into  which  the  high- 
ways have  fallen,  the  county  have  become  fcnfible  of  the  ne- 
ceifity  of  turnpikes,  for  which  an  application  is  refolved  to 
be  made  to  parliament  next  feiGon,  as  well  as  for  a  commata- 
tion  of  the  ftatute  labour. 

Caftle. — Tlife  Castle  of  Dvkvottax,  now  iq  rnins,.!s  the 
only  antiquity,  in  this  pariih,  deferving  particular  attention. 
It  is  fituated  on  a  perpendicular  rock,  level  on  the  top,  of 
feveral  acres  extent,  proje&ing  into  the  fea,  and  almoft  fepa- 
rated  from  the  land  by  a  very  deep  chafm.  By  this  (ituation. 
It  forms  one  of  the  moft  majeftic  ruins  in  Scotland.  From 
fome  old  papers  ftill  extant  f ,  it  appears,  that  upon  this  rock 
was  formerly  fituated  the  pariih  church;  and  that  the  fortrels 

was 


to  make  them  all  LatU  fchooU,  their  eod  it  much  lofl.  Perhaps  the  eredion 
of  only  a  few  of  thefc,  with  an  annual  vilitation  of  the  whole,  by  the  Commi£- 
iionerf  of  Supply  and  Prelbytery  of  the  bounds,  would  be  attended  with  the  beil 
cfieds.  Thefe  vifitors  might  alfo  have  the  power  of  fixing  and  augmenting  the 
f alary  each  year,  to  be  afTefled  upon  the  refpe^vt  parilhcs,  according  to  the 
merit  of  the  teacher. 

•f  Thcfe  papers  are  in  the  cuftody  of  Mr.  Kjcitb  of  Ratilstonk,  who  caa 
give  a  particular  account  of  this  place. 


of  Dtinoiiar*  21  j 

vm  built  there,  daring  the  conteft  between  the  parties  of 
Bei7C£  and  Baliol,  bjr  ao  anceiior  of  the  Marifchal  familj  * 
who  acquired  this  right,  upon  condition  of  building  a  parifli 
diorch  in  a  more  convenient  place,  which  probably  occafioned 
a  tranflation  to  the  prefent  fituation.  Before  the  ufe  of  artil- 
lery, this  caftle,  from  its  fituation,  muft  have  been  altogether 
impregoablef;  but,  by  the  modem  art  of  war,  could  be  eaiily 

Y  i%  approached. 


f  la  great  reputation  for  firength  gare  occafioD  to  a  circnmfiaDce  which  ren- 
dered it  very  remarkable.  The  Regalia  of  Scotland  (the  crown,  fceptre  and 
^Pord),  were  depofited  here,  in  the  year  x66i,  to  preferve  tbem  from  the  Eng* 
liih  amy,  which  ofcr-ran  this  coantiy  daring  the  civil  wars  of  that  period.  Be- 
ing lodged  in  this  place  by  order  of  the  Privy  Conncil  of  Scotland,  Earl  Maex- 
scBAL,  proprietor  of  the  caftle,  obtained  from  the  public  a  garriibn,  with  an  or- 
der for  foitable  ammunition  and  provifions.  He,  joining  the  King's  forces  in 
England,  appointed  Giorce  Oxiivrt  of  Bakras,  a  neighbouring  proprietor* 
who  had  been  officer  for  feveral  years  in  the  King's  fervice,  to  be  lieutenant 
governor  of  the  caftle.  This  ttuft  Mr.  Ogiivy  maiouined  wit^  the  greateft 
relblotion.  For  after  all  the  other  forts  and  piaces  of  ftrength  in  Scotltod  weie 
redaced  by  the  Engliih  army,  a  body  of  troops,  under  the  command  of  Lambert, 
lat  down  before  Dunnottar.  It  was  firft  fUmmoned  to  furrender  in  November 
li^l,  and  repeatedly  afterwards  during  the  courfc  of  the  winter.  About  the 
begioning  of  May  following,  the  iiege  was  converted  into  a  blodLade.  And 
thoogb  Governor  Ogilvt  was  in  the  greateft  ftraits  for  provifions  and  ammu- 
nition, with  a  moft  fcanty  garrifoo,  and  though  he  received  orders  from  the 
Earl  Marilchal,  by  that  time  a  prifoner  in  London,  to  deliver  up  the  place,  and 
was  repeatedly  urged  by  the  Chancellor  cf  Scotland,  and  others,  to  convey  away 
tfao  regalia  to  fome  fecure  place  in  the  Highlands,  and  thereafter  capituUte  ; 
yetbe  iUll  held  out,  till  preffed  by  famine,  and  by  the  mutiny  of  the  garrifon, 
and  having  found  means  to  convey  the  regalia  privately  to  the  clergyman  of 
KincrieC  in  which  pariih  Mr.  Ogtlvy's  property  chiefly  lay,  he  at  laft  capitu- 
lated upon  honourable  terms.  The  EogUfh,  not  finding  the  regalia,  as  they 
cipcded,  were  highly  difappointed,  and  (hut  up  the  Governor  and  his  wife 
dole  prilbiiers  for  a  year,  uiing  every  feverity  or  allurement  for  years  afterwards, 
to  induce  them  to  a  diicovery  :  But  in  vain.  Mr.  Ogiivy  continued  his  fidelity 
dqripf  aU  the  interval,  till  the  reftoration  of  Charles  II. ;  when,  addreiling 
him,  he  madt  known  hit  trofii  and  received  orders  to  delif  er  the  regalia  to  the 

Earl 


a  a  S  Statj/fical  Account 

approached,  and  commanded  on  every  fide.  In  the  year  t^H^p 
Duppottar  Caftle  ^as  employed  as  a  place  of  ccmfinemcn^ 
for  a  body  of  Frefbyterians,  to  the  number  of  167  men  and 
women,  who  bad  been  fqzed  at  different  times  in  the  weft  oi 
Scotland,  ^i^i'ii^g  the  perfecution  under  Charles  II« ;  and  aftef 
being  fome  time  prifoncr$  in  Edinburgh,  wer^fent  to  Dunnnt- 
tar,  upon  the  news  of  Argyll's  invafion.  Here  they  were  treated 
with  the  greateft  cruelty,  which  is  particularly  defcribed  ia 
JVoodrow^s  HifiQry}\  the  whole  number  being  confined,  dnriaff 
the  warmeft  feafon  of  the  year,  in  one  vaplt,  which  is  ftiU 
to  be  fccn  entire,  and  called  **  the  Whi^s  VauU!^  A  lift  of 
their  names  is  upon  record,  in  the  iberifflcourt  office  of  thc» 
county  J  and  a  grave  ftonc,  in  the  church-yard  of  Dunnottar, 
placed  upon  a  number  pf  theI^  who  died  under  confinement, 
narrates  the  faft.  The  falfe  policy  of  thofe  times  requires  no 
comment:  And  it  muft  afford  latisfadion  to  every  liberal 
mind  to  refleft,  that  the  principles  of  toleration  are  now  fiiUy 
eftabliflied  j  which  not  only  fecure  the  fights  of  confcience  to 
every  individual,  but  alfo  tend,  in  a  high  degree,  to  prefervq 
the  peace  of  fociety,  if  not  abufed  and  perverted  by  &aious 
and  defigning  men* 

CbaraBern 


Earl  MarircW,  who  gnnted  a  receipt  for  them,  which  it  1?  the  cuftody  of  the 
family  of  Barras  at  this  time.  ' 

For  aU  thii  dead  J  fcrwe  to  the  Crown,  attended  in  its  confeqneocet  with 
many  yeart  confinement,  and  piuch  loft  of  property,  Gonmor  OgilTy  wceiTe4 
no  farther  mark  of  royal  favour,  or  reward,  bnt  the  HtU  of  Barmn,  and  a  new 
coat  of  arms,  exprefliTe  of  the  adion,  as  the  motto  heart,  "  F««ct aevm  atox 
«  «T  acGNo  tiayiTioii  f'  while  fome  other  pcrfont,  of  higher  intereft,  claim- 
ing  merit  on  the  fame  ground.  teceiTed  ample  hononn  and  emolnmentt.  The 
whole  original  letters,  relating  to  the  fiege  of  Dnnnottar,  and  the  prefemtioo  of 
the  regalia,  are  in  the  poflcflion  of  Sir  David  Ooilvt,  prefest  proprietor  of 
Barras,  in  this  parilh. 


^  Dunnottar.  %%^ 

iSkaraB^r^^^Tht  labouring  people  in  the  .country,  in  gene^ 
nl«    are  very  fober  and  induftnous.     Thofe  in  the  town,  are 
of  tbe  (ame  charafter  as  in  other  towns  along  this  coaft.     It 
is  to  be  regretted,  th^t  the  depopulation  of  the  country,  by 
banifhiog  cottagers  into  towns,  has  fo  much  prevailed  every 
where  pf  late  i  by  which  the  breed  of  men  is  enervated,  their 
inorals  corrupted,  and  the  firength  of  the  (late  impaired.     It 
is  from  the  temperate  and  healthy  family  of  the  country  la- 
bourer, or  tnuiefman,  and  not  from  the  Ipathfome  fink  of  a 
town,  that  the  race  is  to  be  fought,  who  are  to  cultivate  our 
fields,  or  defend  onr  property  in  the  time  of  danger.    In  ge<« 
Bendy  the  chara&er  of  charity  may  with  great  jullice  be 
afciibed  to  the  body  of  the  people  here  ^  fo  that  no  fubjeS  of 
diftre(s  can  be  long  without  relief  voluntarily  offered.    And 
perhaps,  in  a  moral  view,  the  encouragement  of  this  virtuj; 
may  be  none  of  the  leaft  arguments  againft  the  eftabliflimenC 
qi  foofs  raUt.    For  the  extrcifi  of  private  charity^  and  comm 
fajffion^  mujl  always  dfcline  wbfre  there  is  a  public  affejfment. 


NUM. 


'^3d  Statyiical  Accomit 


NUMBER    XVII. 


PARISH    OF    ECCLES. 


{County  of  Berwick — Prejbytery  of  Dunfe — Synod  of  Mtrje 
and  Tiviotdak* 


By  tbi  Rev.  Mr.  Adam  MuHrat,  Miniftir^ 


Origin  of  the  Name* 

ECCLES  is  evidentlj  derived  from  the  word  Eeckfia^ 
which,  in  the  Greek,  fignifies  a  congregatioiii  aiTemblj, 
or  meeting  of  people.  Sometimes  it  fignifies  the  place  where 
the  meeting  is  held  \  and,  in  modern  times,  it  is  confined  to 
an  aflemblj  of  Chriftians  meeting  together  for  devotion  and 
worfliip,  and  agrees  with  the  Latin  phrafe,  Ctetus  fanSut 
Chfifiianorum^  cut  adesfacra. — From  an  appendix  to  Hofe's 
Minor  PraQics^  hj  the  late  John  Spottiswood,  Efq.  of 
Spottifwood,  advocate,  (which  takes  notice  of  all  the  religions 
houfes  in  Scotland,  at  the  time  of  the  Reformation),  it  appears, 
that  EccLES,  in  the  county  of  Berwick,  was  ancientlj  the 
feat  of  the  nunnery  of  the  Benardine^  or  Cifiertian  Nuns.  It 
was  founded  in  the  year  Z154,  according  to  Harj>en  ;  bnt 

COWPAK 


xf  Eccki.  231 

CoWFAR  &7S,  ia  his  book,  anno  dam*  11$  $9  conve$Uus  moncom 
Uamfecunio^  venit  ad  Eccles** 

Extent  and  Situation. ^^Tht  extent  of  this  parifli  is  very 
coofiderable,  being  no  lefs  than  8  miles  from  E.  to  W.y  and 
nearly  6  from  N.  to  S.  It  lies  adjacent  to  the  county  of 
Roxbarghy  on  the  W ;  and  contains  above  ii|Ooo  acres  of 
gToiuidf  fcarcely  one  acre  of  which  is  wafte  or  ufelefs. 

SoU  and  Improvement. ^^1)^9  foil  is  in  general  good,  and 
Gooiifls  of  various  kinds  ;  loami  gravel,  and  deep  clay.  The 
clay  foil  is  moft  prevalent;  and  as  there  is  a  confiderable 
mixtare  of  fand  in  it,  when  it  is  properly  cultivated,  and 
proper  manure  applied,  it  bears  very  luxuriant  crops  of  every 
kind.  It  is  the  opinion  of  fome  writers,  that  lime  is  not 
fitted  to  improve  a  clay  foil.  The  reverfe  of  this,  however, 
has  been  found  in  this  parifh.  Without  lime,  we  can  neither 
have  wheat  nor  grab  ;  but  with  it,  the  moft  abundant  crops 
of  both.  Indeed  it  requires  a  greater  proportion  of  lime 
than  foils  of  a  lighter  texture  f.  Towards  the  S.  it  is  more 
inclined  to  gravel  \  and  in  feveral  farms  there  is  found  a  very 
rich  loam,  capable  of  producing  almoft  any  crop.  Our  crops, 
in  general,  when  not  hurt  by  a  wet  fpring,    or   excef&ve 

drought, 

•  It  wu  founded  by  Corfpfttrick  Earl  of  March,  father  to  Earl  Waldave, 
■ad  confecratcd  to  the  Virgin  Marj.  Ada  de  Frazer  was  priorefs  of  Ecdei, 
ta  the  year  XS96.  There  is  in  the  public  records,  lib.  ax.  No.  537,  a  charter, 
whereby  Marieta  Hamilton,  priorefs  of  Eccles,  difponei  to  Alexander  Hamiltoa 
of  Inoenrick,  the  Tillage  aad  bnds  of  Eccles,  in  the  year  1569 ;  which  charter 
waa  coofinned  by  Qneen  Mary,  at  Edinburgh,  the  xxth  of  May  the  fame  year. 
This  place  was  eaaAed  into  a  temporal  lordfbip,  ia  favour  of  George  Hume, 
afterwards  Earl  of  Dunbar. 

f  The  late  Mr.  Trotter  of  Belchcfter  Uid  on  no  lels  than  90  bolk  of  ihells 
to  the  EngUfli  acre;  and  though  the  foil  wai  a  deep  clay,  it  produced  as  rich 
graft  «fl  aay  in  Benrickfhire. 

4 


i^i  Statjfticat  jiccotint 

Aroogbt,  ht  rains  in  fuminer,  are  very  prolific ;  and  perhapi 
tbece  is  no  place  in  Scotland  more  diftingniOied  for  luxuriant 
crops  of  wheat,  grafs  and  peafe,  than  Eccles.  The  forface, 
heing,  in  general,  low  and  flat,  is  apt  to  be  injured  in  fpring 
ttod  autnmn  bj  exceffive  rains  ;  and  confequentlj  the  rifiog 
grounds  are  the  beft,  becaufe  not  expofed  to  the  pernicious 
lofluence  of  ftagnant  water.  The  whole  of  the  pari(h  is  arable. 
The  farms  are  all  enclofed  in  the  verj  beft  modern  manner  ; 
and  on  many  eftates,  the  hedge  rows,  which  are  all  in  a  thriv- 
ing ftate,  when  feen  at  a  diftance  by  the  traveller,  exhibit  the 
appearance,  of  a  highly  cultivated  garden.  Of  late  years^ 
great  improvements  have  been  made  in  agriculture,  through 
the  whole  county  of  Berwick ;  but  in  no  parilh  have  they 
been  carried  on  with  greater  rapidity,  and  to  greater  advan-* 
tage,  than  in  this.  Notwithftanding  the  diftance  from  lime^ 
which  is  above  14  Englilh  miles,  the  carts  and  horfes  of  al^ 
moft  every  farmer  in  the  parifh  drive  6  days  in  the  week^ 
during  the  fummer  months ;  firft  for  lime  to  the  turnips,  and 
afterwards  for  the  fallow.  In  confcquence  of  this  induftry, 
the  farmers  in  general  are  wealthy  and  opulent,  and  live  in  a 
fiile  and  manner  very  different  from  their  fathers  f. 

jigricukure. 

f  The  writer  of  thtt  srtlde  is  oU  eaough  ttf  remember,  th«t  butcher  meat 
WM  feldmn  feea  00  a  fiuiner's  table,  eicept  on  a  Sunday,  fiut  how  n  the  fccne 
Oianged !  Mo  perfon  now  entertains  better  than  the  fanner,  nor  u  there  more 
neatner»or  elegance  any  where  to  be  foand,  than  in  their  hoafei;  and  ma  atf 
this  is  the  effeft  of  induftry,  they  have  an  unqueftioDable  title  to  enjoy  the 
fruiu  of  their  honed  bibour.  Formerly,  in  this  county,  eftates  ^ere  made  only 
by  geatlemen  10  the  law  department.  But  the  cafe  is  now  entirely  altered. 
Tberc  are,  in  the  county  of  Berwick,  above  a  do2ea  farmers,  who,  by  their  in* 
gcnuity  and  induftry,  have  acquired  very  coniiUerable  eftates ;  and  there  is 
erery  reafon  to  believe,  that  many  more  will  foon  be  in  the  fame  independent 
iitaatiipn«  The  price  of  labour  has  kept  pace  with  the  progrefi  of  improvement. 
Tweoty  years  ag6,  domcftic  mca  lervaBU  could  hate  bcci)  had  for  4I.  and  5I. 

a  year, 


of  Eccks.  a^j 

AgrkuUure  and  Produce, — ^If  not  prevented  bj  rain  in  the 
fpringy  oats  are  fown  in  the  month  of  Mareh  and  beginning 
of  April ;  and  if  the  fammer  is  favourable,  they  are  common- 
ly reaped  from  the  end  of  Augoft  to  the  middle  of  September. 
Barliy  is  generally  fown  in  April  and  the  beginning  of  May* 
and  i$  reaped  as  foon  as  the  oats.  Peafe,  cdd  feed,  if  the 
weather  ^mits,  are  fown  in  February  and  the  beginning  of 
March.  When  fown  later,  they  feldom  come  to  perfeAion. 
Wheat  (a  great  qu^itity  of  which  is  produced  in  the  parifli), 
is  generally  fown  updi^  fdlow  in  the  end  of  September. 
A  nnmber  of  farmers  Ijpw  wheat  after  peafe  \  and,  if  the 
land  is  clean,  and  the  pea^e  a  good  crop,  it  generally  fucceeds ; 
though  feme  are  of  opipfiop,  that  it  is  a  fpecies  of  hulbandry 
not  to  be  imitated. '  Wheat  is  alfo  fometimes  fown  in  th6 
fpring,  after  turnips  ;  but  the  crop  is  feldom  good,  as  it  is 
generally  very  late,  and  neither  gives  muoh  wheat  nor  flour. 
Akbough  there  are  no  lands  in  Berwickflrire,  that  will  produce 
turnips  of  greater  fize  and  quantity,  than  fome  farms  in  tbie 
parifli,  yet  the  moft  judicious  farmers  are  of  opinion,  that 
they  can  turn  their  lands  to  greater  acceant.  Theincon* 
veaiences  attending  turnips,  on  a  clay  foil,  are  the  following  : 
s/f,  They  cannot  be  taken  off  without  injuring  the  land  roa« 
terially,  as  the  water  ftands  the  whole  winter  in  the  tracks  o^ 
the  wheelsr  and  the  ground  cannot  be  properly  prepared  for 
the  next  crop.     %ily^  It  is  abfolutely  impraSicable  to  fud 

Vqu  XI.  G  g  flieep 


a-yctf,  they  ceanot  now  begot  for  Ids  than  9I.  ud  lol.  per  anmiiii.  Fcaule 
fdvuiti  are  lA  the  lame  proportion.  Formerly,  they  could  bave  been  got  for  sL 
B  year ;  they  ha^e  npw  got  up  to  4I.  and  5I.  The  wages  of  men  labourers  at 
hedge  and  ditch,  are  (rom  is.  to  is.  3d.  a  day,  from  the  xfi  of  March  to  the 
sft  of  November ;  and  from  8d.  to  rod.  the  reft  of  the  year,  except  that,  in 
tine  of  harveft,  they  are  from  X|i  ^d.  to  as.  a-day.  Work,  howtter,  fncfa  as 
Sfldpfing,  aad  weeding  turnip*  &€.  is  gencraUy  done  by  the  piece* 


^34  Statlfiia^  Account 

flMsep  uyiM  fnch  land,  as  the  animals  oe v«r  faavfl  a  diy  bed,  and  • 
%ff  9flaa  Qp  10  tbe  belly  in  mnd  aod  water,  la  Uieib  plaovQ 
of  iHe  parilb  where  the  ibil  is  light,  great  pffoftts  are  aiiade  bjp 
feeiiiig  iheep  oo  tumipfl.  They  are  generally  l^t  at  fro|»  4!^ 
to  5I.  the  Englifli  acre ;  aad  the  ymtgt  ^(oof  b^  opce  ao4 
^gaia  fold  tbeeDi  for  5  gisioeas. 

.  CUmi^H  amd  BifMftu^^Jl^t  Qtioiate  of  Cccle6»  from  its  lew 
aod  flat  iittiation,  is  by  00  aaeans  the  moft  healthy;  aod  frooa 
the  meiik  miafma^  (arifing  from  vain  water  ftagnatiog  on  tt^ 
fttrfaoe  of  a  foil,  chiefly  clay),  the  people  are  peculiarly  oIk 
aoadous  to  difeafes  of  debility,  fucU  1^  agues,  nervous  fevers^ 
ehionic  rbeumatifins,  feo.  Within  thefe  left  zo  years,  thefe 
difeafes  were  aknoft  epidemic,  amopg  the  lower  clafies  of  the 
people.  Of  late,  however,  they  are  tnueb  le(s  frequent,  and 
greatly  milder.  This  mey  be  attributed  to  two  oaufes :  |>9^ 
To  the  advanced  ftate  of  agriq|ltan|l  impfovemcnt,  and  efpe* 
eially  draining  of  laad  if  which,  by  drawing  off  the  rain  water 
Aat  formerly  ftagnated  on  the  furface^  has  rendered  the  foil 
dryer,  aad  conieqitently  more  wboklbme :  a4tf^i  To  thelowet 
dafliBs  being  more  comfortably  clothed  and  lodged,  and  living 
more  on  animal  food  than  formerly.  That  the  iafluenoe  of  a 
damp  climate  is  correfted  by  a  generous  mode  of  living,  \% 
abundantly  evident  from  this  eh^umftanee,  diat  while  the 
pocfrer  fort  are  often  vtfited  by  the  abovementioned  diftafira, 
the  gentry  apd  opulenf  farmers  almoft  always  efcape«  Among 
the  canfes,  which  have  contributed  to  leflen  the  influence  of 
the  difeafes  peculiar  to  thi^  climate,  there  is  one,  which  the 
incumbent's  perfonal  knowledge  of  its  happy  effefls  will  not 
allow  him  to  omit  y  the  vo$armg  f/T  vlamhel  nt»t  the  fdn. 
Nor  18  it  diQicuIt  to  aticoont  for  this  effeft.  Rheumatifm 
proceeds  evidently  from  the  perfpiration  being  obdrufied  on 
the  furfaoe  of  the  body ;  and  notbbg  b^t  flannel  will  pr^rve 

tlus 


^  Etxks.  23  jf 

tim  difcliarge  niiiibtftt  ^d  ibquablb,  m  a  tiimate  which  is  Tub- 
)tded  to  fogSy  add  to  thi  Vapbutt  which  arifie  from  Water  flag* 
natiag  oti  the  furfiice  of  thb  gtodnd.  Coxihl  people  be  pre** 
Tailed  <Ax  tuiiverfally  to  adopt  this  ptaftice,  it  wouM  do  more 
to  allevi&tei  if  not  extirpate  nervous  difeafes,  than  the  united 
powers  of  the  whole  nmttrU  ffuiica.^^^Tht  raTages  made  by 
the  Gaaall  pbx  were  fbrmerly  Very  great;  not  tefs  than  a  third 
part  of  all  thofe  infeded  being  carried  off  by  this  malignant 
difeafe  :  But  fincie  the  introdudion  of  inoculation^  which  of  ^ 
late  has  become  Very  general,  the  baneful  in^uence  of  this 
difeafe  has  bten  greatly  taitigated  \ 

Rhfer  asid  Fj^.^^This  parifii  has  no  river  that  runs  through 
it,  but  the  Tweed  I  which  feparacea  Scotland  and  England, 
waflics  the  ifoutbeni  boundaryi  and  affords  a  very  lucrative 
lalaoon  filbiag,  though  at  the  diftance  of ''near  ao  miles  fcom 
die  fea«    The  ptoperty  belongs  to  the  £arl  of  Hom£. 

Population,^^\ti  a  Ihrvey  made  by  Dr.  Webfter,  about  40 
ytarl  ago,  the  number  of  examinable  perfous  in  the  pariih  of 
Ecclesy  was         -  -         •         •        -         .        •     1240 

And  the  number  of  foiils,        •>...•  2469 
From  a  very  accurate  furvey  of  the  prefent  inhabitants, 
taken  by  the  writer  hereof,  the  number  is  not  lefs 
thaft        .        -        -        -         -.-        -        -     1783 

Confiequcntiy,  in  the  {pace  of  40  years,  there  has  been  an  in* 

crvafe  of  ai^t. 

Oga  As 

•  ftbtafCM  hair  •fMsdytag out  of  mrily  fcmidfeds  wlio  Mam  to  tliit 
fitotyffmddm^  wfcik  thafe  fiunilM^  iH»>  firaai  igaptmoB,  M^tauj  •r  prt» 
jndicei  coaU  mm,  be  promfled  apoa  to  txj  die  ftlutuy  ciperiment.  have  beta 
piaiiMd  by.  the  io6  of  mcve  thsn  half  tbeir  daldren.  It  it  mvch  to  the  hoaour 
of  the  gentlemen  in  thii  pariih,  that  Uiey  hate  dooe  erery  thing  m  their  power 


236  Statiftical  Account 

As  agricuhare  is  the  principal  bufinels  carried  on  m 
the  parifli,  the  inhabitants  are  mofilj  employed  in  that 
particular  branch*  There  is  a  conCderable  number  of 
tradefmen,  fuch  as  Cmitbs,  carpenters,  and  plough-wrights* 
yiho  are  all  employed  by  the  farmers,  and  are  generaUy  in 
eafy  circumflances.  No  man  in  this  parifli  is  unemployed  ; 
and  there  is  rather  a  want  of  hands  for  kbourt  than  a  fuper- 
fluity. 


Abdraft  of  Marriages  f,  Baptifms,  and  Burials,  for  3  Years, 
viz.  from  the  ift  of  Oaobet  2789,  to  the  xft  of  Oaober 
179a. 

BtpdL        Marr.       Bur. 
From  I.  Od.  1789  to  ditto  1790,  80  zo        ^3 

From  i.  Oft.  1790  to  ditto  1791,  7a  13         ao 

From  I.  Apr.  1791  to  z.  Apr.  1792,       86  z6        aa 

Cattle^  l^r.^-.The  number  of  cattle  and  ploughs  in  the  pa- 

riih  is  as  follows  : 

Number 

to  reconcile  the  minds  of  the  commoo  people  to.thii  ufeful  pradke,  Vj  psying  t^ 
eipence  of  inoculating  the  children  of  the  poor  around  thenu  In  thia  way,  they 
have  done  more  to  promote  the  pradice,  than  either  reafon  or  eloquence  could 
ha?e  effeded. 

f  To  account  (tft  the  tmall  number  of  regiffered  marriagea,  it  is  to  be  eb-> 
ferved,  that  the  pradice  of  marrying  in  a  clandeftine  and  irregular  manner  iUU 
fubfiib  upon  the  Borders;  and  though  the  fyngd  of  Merie  and  Hviotdale  have 
done  every  thing  in  their  power  to  reprefs  it,  yet  it  is  fUU  kept  up  by  fimie 
mcmbets  of  the  Church  of  Bngland,  who  lacrifice  the  dignity  of  their  profcfiioQ 
to  a  little  tranfieot  emolument*— 'There  are  alfo  many  more  baptifins  than  thefe 
whidi  are  regiftered;  but  of  late  yean,  fince  the  te»  of  Aretpemu  was  paid  to 
the  King,  over  and  above  the  ufiud  fees  of  regiftration,  many  cannot  be  prevailed 
on  to  enrol  their  childrens  names.  The  minifier  has  done  every  thing  in  his 
power,  to  convince  them  of  the  propriety  of  the  mcafure  s  but  aaaay  individnalt 
iliU  continue  obllitMtte  and  refradory. 


of  Eccks*  ^37 

Kinber  of   labouring   horfes,  Number  of  cal^Ks  reared  an- 

iblely  employed  in  the  plougb,    a 66  Dually  hj  ditto  and  labour- 

-^  ditto  from  a  to  3  years  old,   70  crs,        ...        -      XOOd 

^n&ttgaod  carria^  ditto,       50  Ditto  of  black^cattle,    "    -         aSjS 

^^-fbakiearedbytbc farmers,    200  —  pbnghs*,        •        -.       j^^ 

"58^ 


Sbetp  and  Wool. — ^Oar  farmers  do  not  breed  manj  (heep« 
This  is  owing  to  the  nature  of  the  foil,  which  often  produces 
that  baneful  difeafe,  well  known  by  the  name  of  the  rot.  The 
greateft  proportion  is  confequentlj  bought  In,  and  fed  off. 
The  Iambs  are  generally  fold  in  the  months  of  June,  July, 
and  Auguft,  and  the  ewes  about  Michaelmas  and  Martinmas. 
The  wool  of  thefe  flieep  is  not  very  valuable,  as  they  are  ge» 
nerally  bought  in  from  mountainous  counties,  fuch  as  Tweed* 
dstle  and  Lammermuir.  Such  wool  fells  from  los.  to  las.  per 
Hone.  As  for  the  ihecp  purchafed  from  Northumberland  and 
Bi/bopricif  they  are  of  a  very  fuperior  kind.  The  wool  of 
that  fiaple  generally  fells  from  z8s.  to  one  guinea  per  done, 
and  the  carcafe  weighs  from  70  lb.  to  80  lb.  There  are  only 
1  farmers  in  the  parilh  who  are  breeders  of  flieep ;  which 
turn  out  to  great  account.  The  flieep  which  they  breed,  are 
^nal  to  any  bred  in  Northumberland,  both  for  weight  and 
fioeneis  of  fleece ;  and,  as  a  proof  of  this,  100  lambs,  with 
the  wool  of  the  ewes,  were  fold  for  zco  guineas ;  and  a  con- 
fiderable  profit  was  made  of  them,  both  by  the  butcher  and 
nia&afa&nrer. 

Union  of  Far  mi. '^  About  25  or  30  years  ago,  the  farms  m 
tbe  parifli  of  Eccles  were  very  fmall,  and  feveral  gentlemen 

of 


*  There  wovld  be  many  more  plongbi,  if  there  was  not  a  cofifidenble  fua^ 
titj  of  isQ^  ]||[d  off  ia  the  heft  order,  both  for  breeding  and  feeding. 


i^i  Siaiijikcd  Account 

of  fmall  Atit%  fannlid  their  own  lands.  Ai  this  period^  little- 
profit  arofe  from  agriculture;  and  it  is  onl^  finoe  farms  were 
trailed,  that  great  profits  hnve  been  made*  It  is  bow  to  be 
Icared,  however,  that  farraiog  is  going  to  the  ofipofito  ntronic; 
and  the  writer  hereof  cannot  help  thinking,  that  too  great 
property,  and  too  eztenfive  farming,  is  a  rety  great  lofi  to 
any  coiintty*  In  the  parifh  of  Ecclea,  fome  farms  are  far  too 
titenfive,  tonfldering  the  good  quality  of  the  land.  Some  tenants 
^oflefs  abov*  906  acres,  feveral  806,  atid  fcafcdy  can  a  fai-m 
of  56  tit  66  acres  be  got  for  any  rent.  In  land  ihch  as  that 
tt  Eccles,  thet«  ought  not  to  be  a  fafm  exceediug  300  acres; 
Ithis  quantity  of  land  would  fupport  a  family  very  decently, 
a<id  befides  alFord  an  ample  provifion  for  their  children ;  and* 
in  the  opinion  df  fome,  it  is  very  improper  to  elevate  men 
too  high  abtfVe  their  ftation.  As  many  of  our  farmers  have 
got  a  tery  narrow  education,  tiches  have  often  the  unhappy 
effed  of  making  them  proud,  and  leading  them  to  treat  their 
fttperiors  with  infolence  and  contempt. 

Kent  and  Propriitors^  t^r.^;^The  rent  of  this  parifh,  at  pre- 
fcnt,  is  nearly  ii,oool. ;  and  it  will  advance  coiifiderably  in 
a  vety  Ihort  time,  as  fome  old  leafcs,  upon  extenfive  eftates, 
mud  foon  expire.  There  is  no  farm,  fince  the  author  has 
been  mihiller  of  the  parifli,  but  what  has  been  doubled  in  rent, 
and  fome  of  them  have  been  tripled ;  and  if  grain  and  ftock 
continue  to  bold  the  value  they  do  at  prefent,  it  vfdixiA  not  be 
furprifing,  if,  in  the  courfe  of  a  few  years,  the  rental  of  this 
patiih  ihould  exceed  x8,oool.  or  even  20,cooL  per  annum. 
There  is  a  farm,  near  Eccled,  that  expires  in  a  year  or  two, 
fented  at  tSol.,  and  it  is  credibly  reported,  that  480I.  has  been 
Ofiered,  and  refufed.— There  are  above  30  gentlemen,  pro- 
prietors of  eftates;  fome  of  whom  poflefs  i,40ol.|  many  800I. 
dnd  900I.  per  annnm,  many  confidtrably  lefs,  and  fome  fmall 
6  heritors, 


ff  Eccks.  |it^9 

kcritofSy  who  do  not  e^cred  xooL  p^r  tooim.  Oar  tenanu 
trt  XQ  QUXQlieT  36;  and  huqj  of  pur  geotleinen  retain  as  mttcli 
hod  10  th<ir  owq  handf  a9  ^camn^Qdatea  their  fami}ies  vriti? 
tbc  Mreflkrifa  9f  life. 


Ecckjiqfiicml  Staif. ^Tht  incimbent  has  bad  grrat  d\At^\ty 
ro  afcertam  tl^  ei^tetil  pf  the  aocieat  Numurf.  Ii  appears  to 
have  Wttfi  i||»rl J  a  fqaare  of  6  acres  i  eKteodiog  rather  farthar 
to  tht  S.  wd  W.  than  to  tha  £.  aod  N.  The  ooly  Teftiga 
itmainiog  of  it  it  two  raulted  cells  f,  which  the  late  Sir 
John  Pal^r&m  converted  inti^  two  cellars^  for  holding  winot 
ikst^c.— The  old  chorch  wa$  %  Gothic  boUdiogt  ia  the 
li»riii  of  a  erofsv  vanUed  and  covered  with  large  0ag  ftones, 
dcdieated  tQ  St*  Andrew,  the  tutelar  (aiot  of  Scotland,  and 
arnamenf  ad  with  a  crofs^  and  a  vevy  elegant  ileeple.  The 
baiUtng  might  have  flood  for  i|iany  eenturies»  and  it  waa 
with  Che  greateft  diScnltj  it  was  taken  down*  But  as  it  wa^ 
too  CmaU  to  accommodate  the  inhabitants,  the  proprietors  of 
the  parifh  took  it  down  about  ao  years  ago,  and  built  a  very 
kandfome  modem  phurch  on  the  fiime  ground,  75  feet  long, 

b7 


t  The  btfiil  groood  cootigaoos  to  thde  vanlts  it  all  flagged  with  fine  ftooe, 
4  ha  beneath  thf  fnfCftc* ;  whadi  »  a  cl^ar  pniof  that  there  h^nt  been  manj 
wmt  cella,  of  a  flmilar  kind  to  the  toner  $  and  a«  the  groendiwhen  tened  up, 
obibiu  only  a  mixture  of  Iknd,  liine*  and  earth,  it  appears  to  be  nothing  but 
the  mbbtfli  of  the  fallen  fudti.  It  at  <kid,  that  the  prmeipal  entrance  to  the 
aoaacrf  mt  fr»A  the  W^  ntae  then  way  a  very  fpackiis  gate,  beastifiiUf 
Mpcnred,  and  adaread  with  a  nriaif  at  igerce.  9e£9re  the  Iront  door  of 
the  maniion  heale  «f  So^et,  a  ft^ae  $oSa  waa  dag  outt  above  6s  feet  long,  and 
€«? cred  above  with  flag  ftona.  At  it  ha^  been  baraed  ybove  aoo  yean,  every 
part  of  the  body  wa«  reduced  to  aihes.  At  the  infide  of  the  flone  waa  pretty 
fi&eeth,aad  dK  wiMie  portrait  of  the  parte  vifibie  (thoegh  in  aflles).  Sir  John 
Pateribo  had  the  cvriofity  to  coUeft  the  whok,  and  (Windcifiil  to  tcU !)  it  did*' 
i  ia  wei^  ane  ovaca  «n4  »  hllf  I 


S4^  Statiftical  Account 

l»7  35  broad;  where  lodo  people  are  very  coovenientljr  feated. 
It  was  built  after  the  model  of  the  Chapel  of  £afe  in  Edin- 
burgh, is  in  every  refpeft  well  finilhed,  and  is,  without  dtf- 
pute,  the  heft  and  handfomeft  country  church  in  Berwickihire* 
The  prefent  incumbent  was  the  fiirfi  minifter  who  preached  in 
it*  The  manfe  and  offices  were  built  at  the  fame  time*  They 
were  removed  from  the  place  where  they  fbrmeily  ftood, 
which  was  a  little  to  the  S.  W.  of  the  manfion-honfe  of 
Eccles ;  and  as  the  heritors  would  not  confent  to  the  removal, 
nnleis  Sir  John  was  at  the  whole  expenee  of  the  new  build- 
ings,  he  acceded  to  the  conditions.  The  glebe  was  exchanged 
at  the  fame  time,  and  placed  very  conveniendy  in  the  front 
of  the  manre.  It  confifts  of  rather  more  than  lo  acres  of 
good  arable  ground,  and  is  well  worth  as  many  pounds  Ster- 
ling. As  the  ftipend,  when  the  prefent  minifter  entered  to 
the  charge,  did  not  exceed  72!.,  every  thing  included,  he  was 
obliged  to  purfue  for  an  augmentatio|i.  The  Lords  of  Seffiod 
granted  one  to  the  extent  of  30L :  But,  what  is  extremely 
hard  on  him,  although  it  is  above  18  years  finoe  it  was  ob- 
uined,  the  allocation  is  not  yet  finally  fettled,  Several  of  tho 
heritors,  indeed,  paid  by  the  firft  allocation,  bat  many  more 
have  refufed  payment ;  and  there  are  arrears,  ^t  this  moment 
due,  to  the  extent  of  feveral  hundred  pounds, 

Poar^ — The  poor,  that  are  rated  in  the  books,  amount  to 
the  number  of  30  perfons;  and  the  pariih  is  aiTefled  in  X2ol. 
per  annum  for  their  fupport.  As  for  the  induftrions  poor« 
when  ftmilies  may  want  occafional  fupport^  they  are  relieved,* 
either  from  the  money  coUefted  on  the  Sabbath-day,  or  by 
the  gcnerofity  of  the  gentlemen  in  the  pariih.  The  author 
mentions  it  to  their  honour,  that  on  a  proper  reprefentatioa 
of  diftrefsi  he  has  always  found  them  liberal  and  beneficent. 

AtttifuttUu 


ff  Eccku  a4i 

Jbui^piluit^^twsk  our  TiciAky  to  Engltad,  it  augkc  hsM 
%ec&  ezpefied,  that  we  fliould  liav«  had  maDy  memorials  of 
thofe  blobdy  cooteibt  which  formeriy  fubfifted  between  dift 
•eighbbttring  kingdoms.  We  have  onlyy  however,  one  of 
thu  idnd.  It  is  a  monttment  erefted  tooite  of  the  paROtn^ 
yjrtio  fell  hv  ftlildo^  engagement  with  one  of  the  rival  fiunUy 
of  DoDGLAS.  It  confifts  of  a  large  fqnare  ftoiie,  fiill  9  fieet 
tbovo  die  furface.  On  one  fide  of  the  ffaate  i^pearftthe 
jgiej)iottn4t  which  is  thePercte*^  creft  ;  on  another,  the  Sguft 
«f  a  ndkxA  maait  in  mde  fcnlpture ;  and,  on  the  4ther  two 
fidetf,  the  ancient  fword  i(nd  battle-ax  are  poortrajediki  \\ 
ftlnda  nearly  a  mile  to  the  N.  *£.  pf  the  village  of  Ecdes. 

DiJadpnntagu^i'^Amofig  the  natural  defefts  h  tfie  fituatioa 
of  Ecdes,  null  fifS  be  mentioned  the  want  of  running  wattrm 
]n  times  of  fevere  drought,  our  brooks  and  rivulets  are  oftea 
entirely  dried  up ;  and  our  farmers  are  fometimes  obliged  to 
drive  their  cattl^  to  the  Tweed,  a  diftance  of  between  a  and 
3  miles.  Another  di&dvantage  under  which  we  labour,  is 
our  difiance  from  coals  and  lime.  We  are  obliged  to  brin|{ 
both  thefe  articles  fifom  Northun[iberland,  whith  is  not  lefo 
remote  than  from  14  to  18  miles.  Hence  fuel  becomes  amoft 
expeofive  article  in  houfekeeping ;  and  (he  diftrels  of  the 
lower  ranks,  in  fevere  winters,  is  unfpeakably  great.  Our- 
diflance  from  market^  is  alfo  another  inconvenience.     Our 

Vol.  XL  H  h  farmers 

f  Tlwrc  M  DO  laTcnption  whatever  to  be  traced  on  thit  ilone ;  fo  that  it  i« 
iayoffibie  to  aicertaiD  its  antiquity.  It  muft,  howeTCTt  have  beeo  coniiderably 
prior  to  the  Union.  The  bte  Sir  John  Paterfon  wiflied  to  have  it  removed 
near  the  manfion  of  Ecckt,  but  found  the  thing  impradicable.  The  monument 
St  fixed  in  a  large  ikone  baiuy  which  it  penetrates ;  and  the  workmen  followed 
it  Ibme  feet  imo  the  earth,  without  being  able  to  get  to  the  foundation.  The 
place  where  it  ftands  is  called  Buul  Xiggt,  from  the  great  number  of  the  flain  ; 
and  fo  dreadful  was  the  flaughter,  that  tradition  reports,  that  a  little  (Ireamlet, 
ia  its  odghboarhood,  ran  vUh  hlt^djw  S4  hmtn  i 


^4*  Statj/iicai  AcccuMt 

fiurmen  cannot  depend  on  a  ready  fale,  and  quick  return  of 
money,  in  any  market  nearer  than  Berwick^  which  is  diftant 
•Imoft  ao  miles ;  and  it  is  to  that  place,  accordingly,  that  thej  ^ 
commonly  fend  all  their  wheat  and  barley.  Kelfo,  indeed,  is 
within  6  mileS  of  Ecdes ;  but  as  no  com  merchants  attend 
there,  to  buy  grain  for  eicportation,  the  only  purchafers  are 
country  millers,  who  buy  it  for  internal  confumption,  an4 
with  whom  it  is  generally  difagreeable,  and  often  uniafe  to 
deal*  The  circumftance,  which  enables  us  to  ftroggle  under 
thefe  inconveniences,  is  the  goo^nels  of  our  public  roads ;  and 
the  gentlemen  of  the  county  deferye  high  praife  for  the  at« 
tcntion  they  have  paid  to  this  impprtaot  particular,  and  thf 
regulations  they  have  made  for  keeping  the  roads  in  a  ftate 
pi  good  repairr 


IfUMi 


ij  U  M  B  E  R    XVlil. 

PARISH    OF  DUNNET. 

{fitmUy  (Md  PnJbjfUry  of  Caitlmtjs^Symd  of  Gakhmfi  aad 

Sdtberiand.) 

By  the  Rni  Mr.  Thomas  JdLXT,  Minifien 


Origin  of  the  Name. 

^  I  ^HERC  is  no  certainty  ad  to  the  origin  of  the  name  of 
JL  this  pariih.  Some  fttppofe  it  to  be  from  the  Gaelic; 
in  that  language  it  is  called  Dunnivit^  which  is  probably  taken 
from  tome  part  or  property  in  the  Hcad-land»  that  being  the 
inoft  remarkable  place  in  the  parifh*.  The  names  of  many 
places  in  the  parifli,  however,  are  clearly  of  Daniih  extraftion; 
as  Ratter^  Sjifler^  Reqfler^  Holm  (fince  called  Hiam\  Sunnigoe^ 
^Jbigoti  Gtitriegtiif  Aljbigoe^  \3cm 

H  h  a  ExUntf 


^  Wlttt  rebdefs  ditt  prbbabie,  U,  diat  die  8.  W.  part  of  bannet  llea^ 
Itert  a  ftrodg  n/kaMaoiU  to  the  groimd,  upon  which  the  Caftie  of  Dmuiottar 
(^  aoie  BOt  ufimtfaur  in  (band  to  Doaact) ,  ia  the  coaaty  of  Mcanii  ii  boitof 


«44  Statj/luai  Account 

Extent,  Situation^  and  SoS. — ^The  pmfk  is  tlilmt  xo  wSkm^ 
long,  from  N.  W^  to  S.  £ ;  and  4  mfles  bfoad«  ftbout  the 
middle,  but  much  narrower  towards  thecxcsemitiea.  It  bone 
of  the  moft  northern  pariflies  in  Scotland ;  and  indeed  the  ex- 
tremity of  Dunnet  Head,  by  the  lateft  obfervatbns^  is  fonod  to 
be  fomewhftt  ftftfier  N.  than  cveti  DuncaifbayBiad,  or  Jobs 
o'  Groat*8.  The  foil  is,  ni  general,  of  a  light  nature,  widi  litde 
ftiff  cUj,  or  deep  loam.  On  the  W.  it  is  fandj,  and  toward* 
the  E.  it  IS  chiefly  a  Kght  Mack  (oil ;  but  not  without  the  eio- 
€eption  of  feveral  farms,  which  are  rich  clay.  The  Cmt  greater 
part  of  the  parith  is  uncultivated,  and,  indeed,  a  great  part  of 
it  unfit  for  cultivation. 

Dunnet  Hifai.— Dunhet  Head  is  an  extenfive  promootoiy 
on  the  W.  It  confills  of  feveral  ^  hills,  but  none  of  them  of 
confiderable  height*  imerlpctCid  with  vaUicSt  in  whidi  these 
is  a  great  extent  of  pafture  for  fmaU  cattle  or  Iheep.  It  was 
formerly  well  flored  with  the  latter ;  which  are  laid  to  have 
{ucceeded  well :  But  as  thefe  were  deftroyed  by  the  introduc- 
tion of  a  difeafe,  it  has,  for  many  years  paft,  turned  to  littk 
account  to.  the  neighliouring  proprietors^  who  have  it  iaoom 
moQ.  Donoet  Head  prefents  very  bold  rodts,  towards  the 
fiea,  from  lOO  tr  400  feet  high,  \hrou^  its  whole  cticuiH 
which  is  not  led  than  9  miles,  exclufive  of  2  miles  of  low 
hndt.bj  which  it  is  joined  to  the  reft  of  the  pariih.  Thetfe  is 
no  part  of  it  inhabited.  The  foil  is  chiefly  mols,  vunaing  on 
freewftone,  or  fiMidy  clay.  The  free-ftone»  which  is  the  enlj 
kind  of  ftooe  found  there,  is  exceedingly  hard^  and  feems  to 
be  very  little  affe&ed  by  the  influence  of  the  air«  as  appearr 
by  the  comer  ftones  of  a  fi&all  fteeple,  adjoining  the  charcfa» 
which  ft  ill  bear  the  original  marks  of  the  iron,  though  it  has- 
iK>t  ilood,.by  the  beft  accounlsi  lefs  tbiaa  aoo  years*  Soeh  an 
eslostof  daod)iefree.AonB.quarc|r|  wooldv  ia  feme  posts  of 

Iht 


of  Dufmtf.  .-145 

AtkiflgdolBt  W  a  treafarc;  bat  here  it  yields  nothing,  except 
%  firnril  vent  to  one  of  the  neighboortog  proprietors,  for  the 
ffinkge  of  qnarxying  mtUftones ;  an  article,  in  which  the 
giceCer  pert  of  the  county  are  fupplied  from  thence.  There 
aie  fifveraS  fmall  look  in  different  parfs  of  the  Head,  which 
fax^i^  water,  fefficient  for  a  milt,  through  the  greater  part  of 
the  jcat  # 

Sm  C$ti0t  £A^f  Laie$^  &c.^JOn  the  E.  of  Dnnnet  Bay, 
Acfe  u  a  beautiful  level  fimd,  for  two  miles  along  the  {bore,- 
ew  tirhich  the  fea  ebbs  and  flows,  above  a  quarter  of  a  mile. 
fiat  as  Ibere  ta  commonly  a  great  breach  npon  the  ihore,  veij 
few  (betl  £ih  are  found  in  it,  and  thefe  of  little  value.  The 
iaM,  above  high«> water  mark,  is  loofe  ^  and  by  being  expo&d 
to  driviflig,  from  the  fu&ion  of  the  bay,  frequently  huru  the 
irighbeiging  lands.  Adjoining  to  that,  there  is  a  trad  of 
banen  bnd,  nearly  a  miles  in  diameter,  which  is  faid  to  have 
Wen  arable  ^ottod,  or  rich  pafture,  feme  time  about  the  end 
4f  laft  oentury.  The  rutn»  of  cottages  are  now  appearing,  in 
different  paiti  of  it ;  but  they  feem.  to  be  of  a  much  older  date. 
The  pert  of  the  paridi  to  the  £•  of  Dunnet  Head,  along  the 
Pcailand  Frilh,  has  a  low  rocky  (hore,  which,  on  an  average, 
may  prodniee  about  ao  tons  of  kelp  per  annum.  A  few 
tone  amy  likewife  be  made  on  the  (hores  to  the  N.  of 
DoMMt  Bay.  The  odier  uncultivated  grounds  are  chiefly 
bmIs  and  moor;  and  of  the  lad  a  great  part  is  capable  of  cul- 
thradon.  There  is  fcarcely  an  eminence  in  the  pariih,  except 
in  Duaaet  Head,  that  deferves  the  naote  of  a  hill.  Three 
lakes,  each  about  a  mile  in  length,  and  half  as  much  in  breadth, 
fiipply  the  principal  mills  with  water.  A  few  fmall  trouts  are 
finaod  in  one  of  thefe  y  the  other  two,  being  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  fimd,  ant  £cequented  only  by  a  few  eels. 


i4^  StoHJikal  Jctount 

Ttidis ^The  current  in  Pendand  Frith  is  eieeedlagl  j  &6ar|i 

during  fpring  tides,  fo  that  no  veffel  can  ftem  it.  The  flood  ikSt^ 
runsy  from  W.  to  £.,  at  the  rate  of  to  miles  an  hottr,  withi 
and  full  moon.    It  is  then  high  water  at  Scal^fsktny  (« 
the  ferrj  boat  crofles  from  Dunnet  for  Orkney),  at  9  o*doclc* 
Immediately  as  the  water  begins  to  fall  upon  die  (hore,  tli^ 
current  turns  to  the  W. ;  But  the  ftrength  of  the  flood  is  fe 
great  in  the  middle  of  the  frith,  that  it  continues  to  nm  £^ 
till  abcnt  twelt^e.     Thefc  contiguous  Currents,'  niaiiing  withi 
amazing  velocity,  in  oppofite  direftions,  have  a  ftfinge  aj^ 
pearance  from  the  land,  io  a  day  favourable  for  obftnrmg 
them.   With  a  gentle  breete  of  wefterly  wind,'  about  8  o*clock 
in  the  morning,  the  whole  frith  feems  as  fmooth  asT  a  flieet  of 
glafsi  from  Dunnet  Head  to  Hoy  Head,  in  Orkney.     Abcmt 
9  the  fea  begins  to  be  in  a  rage,  for  about  100  yards,  to  appear- 
ance, off  the  Head,  while  all  without  that  continues  fmoodi  as 
before.  This  appearance  gradually  advanaes  towards  the  fridt* 
and  along  the  (here  to  the  £.,  though  the  effeflis  of  it  are  not 
much  felt  upon  the  fliore,  uU  it  reach  Scarfskerry  Head,  which 
is  about  3  miles  diitant  trom  Dunnet  Head^  as  the  land  bCi^ 
twecn  thefe  tivo  points  forms  a  confiderable  bay.^  By  a  o'clock^ 
the  whole  frith  feems  to  be  in  a  rage.     About  3  in  the  afker^ 
noon,  it  is  low  water  on  the  fliore,  when  all  the  former  phcnou 
mena  are  reverfed ;  the  fmooth  water  beginning  to  appear  on 
the  land,  and  advancing  gradually  till  it  reaches  the  middle  of 
the  frith.     From  the  ilrengch  of  the  tides,   and  the  furprifing 
Velocity  of  thefe  contiguous  currents,  in  oppofite  dir«&ionSt 
Pcntkud  Frith  is  a  very  dangerous  navigation  to  ftrangers; 
cfpecially  if  they  approach  near  the  land.     But  the  nadves; 
along  the  coaft,  are  fo  well  acquainted  with  the  dire&ion  of 
the  tides,  that  they  can  take  advantage  of  every  one  of  thefe 
Gurrenis,  to  carry  them  fafe  to  one  harbour  or  another.  Henoc 
very  few  accidents  bappcni  but  from  want  of  flciU  or  know. 

ledg^ 


9/ Dunnet.  $^y 

Mge  of  die  tidet •  The  fiifeft  waj  for  ftrang^vs  is  eifter  to 
take  a  pilot  on  board,  or  to  keep  at  a  confiderable  diftance 
fiom  the  land  *•  The  frith  is  faid  to  be  about  12  miles  broad^ 
oppofite  to.  Bannet,  thoagb  no  exaft  meaLuresoent  has  pto^ 
baUj  been  taken. 

Harhours, — ^Though  Dunnet  Bay  runs  far  into  the  land,  \t 
affords  no  flielter  for  any  veflel  upon  the  N*  fide  of  it,  which 
is  cootiguons  t.  Dnnnet  Head,  as  it  is  ezpofed  to  the  W.  But 
on  the  Pentland  Frith,  to  the  £.  of  the  Head,  there  are  feveral 
Tery  iccnre  havens  for  boats  or  fmall  craft.  The  haven  of 
Bromgb,  dofe  by  the  Head,  is  well  iheltered  from  every  wind 

but 


*  la  fpriDg  179X}  there  was  a  veflcl  from  Dant^ic,  of  about  500  or  4oo  ton^ 
Vurden,  paflSog  through  the  frith,  on  a  voyage  to  Liverpool.  The  mafier,  find- 
iBg  tbe  cnrreDt  pgmmfi  him,  to  the  middle  of  the  frith,  when  about  8  or  9  miles 
£.  ol  Baaoet  Head,  bore  in  for  the  fliore,  where  he  fell  in  with  the  laft  of  the 
ebb,  caUrd  by  the  people  here  tb*  W«r  khth.  The  wind  was  about  N.  W, 
Tbe  current  broueht  him  up  paft  Scartskerry ;  but  he  was  fo  near  the  (bore, 
that  the  people  on  land  were  much  alarmed  for  his  fafety.  Soon  after,  a  boa* 
went  out,  and  offered  him  a  pilot,  which  he  rcfufcd  ;  on  whic!  they  advifed  him 
to  ftand  Utmt  auks  out  to  fea.  When  he  came  up  dofe  with  Dunnet  Head,  he 
tacked,  and  ftood  out  only  about  a  milo  to  fea.  Fmding  the  current  ftrong  to 
tbe  W.,  he  thought  it  unBecefiary  to  continue  longer  on  that  tack,  as  be  knew 
it  was  not  near  low  water  in  the  frith ;  upon  which  he  tacked  again,  and  ftood 
to  tbe  W.,  hoping  all  danger  was  over.  He  cleared  Dunnet  Head;  but  hf 
that  time  it  had  begun  to  flow  upon  the  ibore ;  and  the  eafter  birth  fetting  in, 
Ibes  reached  him  with  confiderable  ftrength.  Upon  finding  his  veflcl  carried 
to  tlie  B^  by  the  ftem,  and  laft  appcpacbing  the  bead  land,  he  attempted  to 
tacky  but  found  that  impoflible,  as  the  wind  and  current,  being  nearly  in  the 
fame  direAion,  the  veflel  would  not  anfwer  the  helm.  He  then  attempted  to 
mar,  but  with  no  better  d[tA,  The  people  on  fbore  obferved,  that  nothing, 
ia  ibat  fituation,  could  have  fiived  him,  but  dropping  an  anchor  over  the  ftern; 
and  die  moncot  he  found  that  Jold,  fo  as  to  turn  the  veflel,  flipping  the  cables 
and  ftaading  to  fea.  Ncgledtng  that  preautton,  he  was  driven  afliore  and 
wrecbcd,  ind  that  through  oMre  ignoAace,  without  the  leaft  ftreis  of  weather. 


949  $tatiJHealj€C9fmt 

hot  the  M.  W.;  ma  •  tmUl  expeoce  might  render  It  i 
agaii^  it  too,  by  throwinK  a  pier  from  die  land,  to  a  hrge 
ctett^  or  ottt-fltodiog  rock,  which  u  about  too  yards  fcona 
the  (hore«  Nature  has  already  done  tfagt  in  part,  by  fermin^ 
a  barr,  or  ridge  of  large  ftones,  out  to  that  rock ;  ba|  that 
barrier  Li  not  fuflkiently  high,  to  prevent  the  feas  breal;.ing 
over  it,  at  high  water«  Mr.  Kkox,  in  the  poiirie  of  his  tour, 
was  much  taken  with  that  harbour,  and  feemed  to  think  the 
e;p:ecUtiog  fuch  a  pier,  an  objeft  worthy  ^  attenticm.  This 
could  be  effefted  with  the  greater  eaie,  as  there  woold  be  no 
Occafion  for  quarrying  a  fingle  ftone^  or  for  ^rryingone  above 
aoo  yards.  The  fpace  to  the  £•  of  the  pier,  being  cleared  o£ 
ftones,  would  form  an  excellent  harbour  for  fmall  veilels  \  the 
CDtrance  to  which  is  about  3  fathoms  deep  at  low  water,  an4 
without  any  bar.  Brough  has,  befides,  the  advantage  of  be* 
ing  very  contiguous  to  the  bell  fiihiog  ground  for  cod  and 
ling ;  and  hence  is  not  only  capable  of  being  rendered  a  ia£e 
harbour,  but  the  inoft  commodious  fijfaing  ftation  in  the  pariib, 
or  even  on  this  fide  of  the  Pentland  Frith.  The  harbour  of 
Ham  or  Holm^  is  fcarcely  a  mile  to  the  caft  of  Brough.  It 
might  alfo  be  rendered  fafe  for  fmall  vefTels,  at  little  expence. 
There  is  a  fupcrficial  pier  erc^ed  there  already  ;  and»  the 
ground  within  it  being  pretty  well  cleared  of  (tones,  veffds  of, 
or  beloW  100  tons,  find  no  inconveniency  of  loading  or  un- 
loading a  cargp,  or  even  lying  there  for  weeks  in  the  fununer 
feafon.  It  has,  however,  the  inconveniency  of  a  bar,  or  ridge 
of  fand  and  gravel,  acrofs  the  enti^ance  of  it,  upon  which 
there  is  not  fufficient  depth  Of  water  for  vefiels  in  any  great 
burden,  but  with  fpring  tides.  S^arfshrry  is  a  narrow  creek 
between  two  rocks,  and  affords  a  convenient  landing  for  boats 
with  eafy  wcather|  but  is  not  capable  of  bciog  much  im^ 
proved. 


t>f  DunncL  449 

F|^.— -DunnetBaj  affords  excellent  flounders^  and  haddocks; 
and  is  fonaetimes  frequented  by  ihoals  of  herrings,  in  Julj  and 
Augull.  Bttt  their  continuance  in  the  bay,  or  even  their  coming' 
to  it,  has  hitherto  beeh  reckoned  fo  uncertain,  that  no  ex- 
tenfive  herridg  fifhery  has  been  attempted.  Befides  thefe^ 
great  quantities  of  cuddinr^  as  they  are  called  here,  or  fmall 
laiths,  are  ufually  caught  in  the  fumhier  fedfon.  Pentland 
Frith  abounds  with  excellent  cod  and  ling  ;  not  of  a  very 
large  fize,  but  remarkably  thick  and  of  a  good  quality.  The 
haddocks  and  flounders  are  taken  with  fmall  lines,  mounted 
with  5  or  6  fcore  of  hooks,  which  are  fet^  and  left  in  the  fea 
cooimonly  through  the  night.  The  cuddens  are  taken  with  a 
n>d  and  line,  to  which  is  fixed  a  iingle  hook,  and  for  the  mod 
pait'inlhallow  \^ater^  dr  near  the  ihore.  The  cod  and  ling 
«re  found  principally  in  deep  water,  in  the  tide  way,  and  taken 
with  a  line  of  50  or  60  fathoms,  to  which  a  fingle  hook  is  fixed, 
and  a  lead  weight  or  finker.  There  are  various  other  kinds 
of  fifh  occafionally  taken,  as  turbot,  ikate,  whitings.  Sec.  In 
harveft,  t0O|  amazing  ihoals  of  fmall  fifli,  cvXLtd  feUacii  (which 
are  no  other  than  the  young  of  faiths,  and  fome  fpecies  of  the 
cod),  frequent  the  fliores,  and  ar«  often  taken  in  a  fmall 
fweep  net,  to  the  quantity  of  feveral  bufhels  at  once.  There 
are  fcarcely  any  fhell  fi(h  to  be  found  here,  but  lobfters,  ci^bs, 
and  limpets. 

Birds* — A  great  variety  of  fea  fowls  frequent  the  rocks  of 
Sunnet  Head ;  though,  ad  the  higheft  rocks  front  the  W. 
and  N.  W.,  they  are  not  fo  numerous  as  they  would  other* 
wife  probably  be.  There  is  a  bird,  called  a  Azjr^r,  h^re,  that 
hatches  in  fome  parts  of  the  rock.  It  is  reported,  that  it  is 
only  to  be  found  in  Dunnet  Head,  Hoy  Head  in  Orkney,  in 
Wales,  and  in  the  Cliffs  of  Dover  (where  it  is  faid  tobeknowft 
by  the  name  of  the  fvffin)^  and  in  no  other  place  in  Britain, 
.Vol.  XL  -      li  The 


i^^Q  Statiftkal  Account 

The  old  ooM.  are.  little  eideemed ;  bnt  the  yduBg  are  reckoned 
^tremelj  delicate.  As  there  is  no  way,  however,  of.  gQcdn^ 
to  their  nefts,  but  by  defceadiog  from  the  top  of.  the  rock«  hy 
the  afiiftance  of  a  rope,  no  perfoo  in  this  pariih  has  attempt* 
^  to  catch  any  of  them  for  many  years  paft.  A  £ew  eagles, 
a  varie^  of  hawks,  ravens,  crows,  and  wild  pigeons,  likewifb 
l^atch  in  the  rocks.  The  other  birds  moft  common  in  the' 
I^rifli,  are  plove^  and  groufe  i  but  the  latter  are  not  in  gteaft 
i^undance* 

W(iU  ^uadruf€ds^''-'Oncx$  are  occafionaUy  found  in  Dunnei 
Hc^ ;  and  feals  often  frequent  the  Ihores,  but  not.  in  fo  great 
numbers  as  in  n^iny  other  parts  of  the  county.  The  only 
xavenoiis  animals  here  are  foxes  andweaiels.  There  are  a 
good  many  hares  in  different  paru ;  and  the  fandy  ground,  iis 
the  neighbourhood  of  Dunnet.Bay,  would  make  a  good  rab- 
bit warren^  if  they  were  prcferved:  But,  as  they  ezpofe  die 
fand  to  driving,  by  breaking  the  ground,  the  proprietor  al«^ 
lows  every  perfon  to  flioot  them,  without  reftrifiion.  It  has 
not,  however,  been  pofliible  wholly  to  extirpate  diem,  though 
they  dp  great  mifchief.  Some  of  them  have  found  their  way 
into  Dunnet  Head,  where  they  would  probably  multiply  ra* 
pidly,  were  they  not  a  prey  to  the  foxes  and  eagles. 

Climate  ^nd  Lifeafes^  lie. — ^The  climate  varies  according  to^ 
the  dj;ft9pce  from  the  fea.  Along  the  Pentland  Frith  the  air 
is. generally  temperate  in  fummcr,  and  cold  and  iharp  in  win*, 
ter  i  but  foow  feldom  continues  upon  the  ground,  for  any 
great  leiigth.  of  time.  Towards  the  S.  £^  or  more  inland 
parts  of  the  parifh,  the  frofts  are  much  keener  in  winter ;  and 
the  coru§  ate  more  liable  to  be  hprt  by  hoar  frofts,  in  fpring^ 
apd  avitumn.  The  village,  or  rather  farm,  of  Duknet,  iituated 
tQ  the  .£•  of  Dunnet  Head,^  and,  to  the  N^  £•  of  the  Bay,  has  k 

beauA 


of  I^nneU  ^5^ 

tamtifol^xpofare  and  dediVity  to  tht  S.»  and  is  reckbned 
4xk  exceediogly  healthy  fituatiou ;  yet  there  a^e  few  Wdl  iit- 
tefted  inflances  of  longevity  in  it.  This  may  be  owing  to 
the  people's  mode  of  life.  They  have  all  of  them  very  fmatt 
inms ;  and  moft  of  them  depend  upon  the  fea  principally  for 
itfaeir  fubfiftence.  By  theTe  means^  they  oBferve  little  rega« 
hiity  in  diet,  being  fometimes  obUged  to  live  chiefly  on  ve- 
getables, and  at  other  feafons,  confined  perhaps'  wholly  to 
aniihal  food*  They  are  befides  frequently  ezpofed  to  cold 
and  damps,  and  fometimes,  like  other  feafaring  people,  to 
excieffive  Bitigue,  which  brings  on  rheumatifms  and  coughs. 
Thefe  are  no  doubt  greatly  increafed,  by  their  being  ill  ac- 
isommodated  in  lodging.  Tbeir  houfes  ^re  for  the  mo(l  part 
erc&ed  of  tnrf,  exceedingly  low  and  ill  aired.  I^or  have 
they  that  regard  to  deaslinefs  which  is  neceflary  for  health. 
They  are,  however,  improving  in  th^t  refpeA«    . 

Fopubaian. — All  the  infortnaribn,  diat  is  delirable  on  this 
article,  cannot  be  obtained,  from  the  want  of  authentic  re- 
cords. That  of  baptifms  is  the  only  regiller,  that  has  been 
kept  with  any  degree  of  accuracy^  Indeed,  the  principal  re- 
gifter  of  the  parifli  is  faid  to  have  been  deflroyed,  or  carrie4 
off  by  a  clerk,  in  revenge  of  a  difference  between  him  and 
fome  of  the  heritors.  There  were  in  thii  parilb,  oti  the  id  bf 
Maith  1791,  ttialfes  645t  andfeindles  754*;  in  all,  xJ99f6uls« 
The  return  to  pr.  Webtter,  in  1755,  was        -       1235 

Hence  there  is  an  increafe  of        -^        264       . 
lia  The 

*  The  peit  ^proportloDi  between  the  malet  and  fenjaljer»  ii  prebably  owing; 
{0  the  ntuttber  that  enHfted  with  dlffh'ciit  recrui^ng  partiet,  during  the  Ame-« 
tican  war  \  Vcfidea  a  greit  many  that  have  gone  to  fea.  And  being  m  the  tI- 
ftnic J  of  Orkneji  where  die  HndfoD't  Bay  Aect  generally  call«  very  few  ycara 

P*fra 


aS2  Statiftlcal  Account 

The  number  of  houfeholders  was        -   .     •:         -        Soq 
.,/  of  married  men  (befides  widowers),      -      243 

The  annual  average  of  births  for  the  laft  5  jcars,  is     -     4cf 
Ditto,  fron^  i.  Jan.  1752,  to  i,  Jan.  1757  ♦,        -       -      35^ 

piSerencei  only  -  -  -  if 

Occupations. — ^In  the  inland  parts,  tlie  people  depend  chief- 
ly on  their  farms  for  fubfiftence ':  But  along  the  coaft,  their 
chief  fupport  is  from  the  fea.  And  there  are  fcarcely  any 
handicraftfmen  in  the  parifli,  who  do  not  occafionally  follow 
the  profeflion  of  farmers,  or  fiflierracn  f. — ^The  women  are 
generally  employed  in  fpinning  linen  yam,  which  they  make 
of  a  good  quality,  though  the^  cannot  do  a  great  quantity  in 

a  da^. 


Ba(t»  without  fome  Yovng  tnen  going  thither.  A  few  have  Hkewife  gone  oC 
fate  to  ^e  fouth  of  Scotland,  in  gueft  of  emplpynient :  But  thefe  laA  cannot 
have  much  affeded  the  proportion,  as  feveral  females  have  alfo  gone  thither, 
with  the  fame  view.  » 

"*  It  is  generally  believed,  that  the  parifli  has  incrcafed  in  population  withia 
thefe  40  jeafs ;  and  Dr.  Webfter's  report  affords  a  proof  of  it.  But  it  would 
appear,  from  the  above  averages  of  baptifms,  that  the  difference  is  not  confider- 
»l>le.  Yet  there  are  finqaeftionabl^  great  trads  of  common  that  have  beeQ 
peopled  within  that  period. 

f  The  employment  of  fiihing  feemi  to  be  a  great  bar  to  indoftry  in  other 
branches,  as  it  partakes  too  much  of  the  nature  of  fport»  as  well  as  of  labour.  Tlie 
fiiccefs  never  being  known  till  the  experiment  be  made,  one  day's  fuccefsiful 
iiiking  will  prevent  a  week's  application  to  any  other  bufinefs.  Women,  when 
hired  by  the  day,  draw  irom  4d.  to  6d.,  according  to  the  work  in  which  they  are 
employed.— >The  wagea  to  a  man,  per  annum,  is  about  45s. ;  and  his  allowance 
for  food,  is  3  bolls  of  oat-meal,  at  8^  ftone  per  boll,  and  3  bolls  of  bear-meal,  at 
9  ftonc  per  boll.  A  woman  fervant'^  wages  and  allowance  are  about  «ie  half 
of  the  former.  The  veages  of  fervants,  however,  are  upon  the  increaie,  Me^, 
hired  by  the  day,  draw  8d.  without  maintenance  :  But  as  mofi  of  the  anbabitanu 
arc  fiihcrmcn,  it  is  ^ery  difficult  to  procure  day  labourers. 


of  Dunnet.  ^53 

iA%j.  Some  of  them  have  of  late  begun  to  fpin  on  two. 
banded  vheels,  and  are  making  ^ftonilhing  progrefs  with 
them. 

Agriculture, ^^ll  is  fuppofed,  that  there  are  about  z6co  acres 
in  cultivation  in  the  parifii.  The  onlj  grain  cultivated  is 
oats  and  bear»  wij:h  a  very  fmall  quantity  of  peafe.  Of  late, 
Jiowever,  confiderable  quantities  of  potatoes  have  been  raifed, 
particularly  in  the  farm  of  Dunnet,  where  the  foil  is  well 
adapted  to  that  Toot»  the  benefit  of  which  was  much  felt  in 
the  late  bad  years*  Small  quantities  of  lint  are  raifed  alfo  in 
different  parts.  The  quantity  of  grain  raifed  is  fufiicient  to 
fupport  the  inhabitants,  and  admit  of  an  export  of  about  509 
bolls  of  bear*  and  the  faipe  quantity  of  oatmeal,  per  annum. 
Pf  the  hoi^eholders,  194  occupy  fmall  farms.  Mod  of  thefe 
have  one  plough,  and  a  few  of  them  two  ;  but  the  farms  of 
ibme  are  fo  fmall,  that  two  or  three  of  them  unite  in  fumiih- 
ing  q^ttle,  to  labour  their  joint  pofleilions.  There  are  190 
ploughs  in  the  pari(b,  befides  14  on  4  farms  laboured  by  the 
proprietors*.  The  tenants  ploughs  are  generally  drawn  by 
4  horfes,  or  oicen,  yoked  a  bread.  That  praAice  ,  appears 
ridiculous  to  firanger^ :  But  a  better  acquaintance  with  the 
people's  circuipft^nce9  would  lead  to  a  more  favourable  opi- 
nion. The  cattle  are  very  fmall  and  ill  fed  ;  and  hence  their 
iirength  is  not  fufficient  for  drawing  a  plough,  if  they  were 
yoked  in  any  manner,  where  p$irt  might  have  an  opportunity- 
of  throwing  the  whole  burden  occafionally  upon  the  red.  This 
pradice,  however,  is  attended  with  the  inconveniency,  that 
pne  of  the  cattle  mud  walk  on  the  plowed  ground.    Of  this 

fome 


*  Thefe  4  ianni  contain  about  mo  acres ;  which,  being  taken  from  the 
•bove  i6oo  acfcfl,  the  remaining  13SOJ  laboored  hx  190  plojnght,  w  abaut  7^ 
fcret  per  plough,  on  ao  average. 


'254  Statijlical  Account 

9 

iome  are  begmniiig  to  be  fenfible,  and  are  fubHil^riiig  3  caftlb 
•a-breaft,  inftead  of  4 ;  endeayoaring  to  get  tbcfe  of  n  better 
quality.     The  great  lol^  this  pariih  fuflains,  in  refpeft  of 
agriculture,  is  fro^iji  the  fcarcitj  of  grafs  and  provender  ;  % 
defieft  that  can  never  be  fupplied,  till  the  infaafaitantB  fee  the 
propriety  of  cultivating  artificial  gtafey  and  grean  chips.    Nor 
-would  it  be  difficult  to  periuade  them  of  the  advint&ge  of 
thefe,  were  it  not  for  their  .rooted  prejudiee  againft  winter 
herding.     So  far  as  they  are  not  prevented  by  that  preju- 
dice, they  are  beginning  to  afpire  to  the  ftid^ing  of  fmall 
inclofures  about  their  houfes,  and  fowing  theft  with  clover 
and  tye.gra{s«     Twenty  years  ago,  there  were  not  above  15 
carts  in  the  pariih  ^  and  now  there  are  more  than  4  tio^ea  that 
nmnber.    Progrefs  in  improvement^  however,  ftnill  We  flow, 
while  the  farms  are  fo  fmall,  and  fuch  a  numl^  (Hf  ^wretched 
^bouriog  cattle  kept  upon  them. 

Biaci  Cattle^  Hprfis  and  Sieep.-^As  the  pariii  ia  not  wel^ 
fupplied  with  pafture,  few  cows  can  be  kept  by  the  ftrniers  ; 
and  hence  there  is  fddom  any  cattle  reated  for  eipottatioh. 
A  fupply  of  horfes  from  Orkney  is  needed  aotitially.  &y  the 
way,  the  greater  part  of  Caitbnefs,  eiccepting  the  Highland 
parifhes  of  Latheron,  Halkirk,  and  Reay,  is  fupplied  with 
horfes  from  Orkney  5  and  yet,  what  may  appear  ftrangei  very 
few  breeding  mares  are  kept  in  that  county.  They  antaally 
import  feveral  hunditd  colts,  of  1  or  a  years  old,  from  Strath- 
naver  and  the  high  lands  of  Gaithnefs,  and  t±pott  their  owtt 
horfes  to  Caitbnefs,  about  the  age  of  6  Or  8  years.  That 
plan  they  follow  fo  regularly,  that,  in  fome  parts  of  Orkney, 
a  dead  bor/e  is  thought  a  curiofity.  Unhappily  that  is  not 
the  cafe  in  Caitbnefs,  and  particularly  in  the  pariih  of  Dun- 
net,  where  numbers  every  year  fall  a  (acrifice  to  age  and  po- 
ycrtv.    The  greater  part  of  the  horfes,  imported  from  Ork« 


tf  BUMCU  2J^ 

nef^  ate  Isnded  at  Squrfskorrjy  about  At  Lammas  feaTosu. 
The  &ai€  boats  that  cany  over  the  colts^  geoeiAlIj.  mtum 
loaded  with  horTes^  There  are  about  500  fbeepjo  the  pa«. 
rilk,  of  a.  very  indifiexent  quality ;  a.  very  inconfiderablenunifi. 
her  indeed,  coofidetiQg  the.ekteot  o£  pafture  in  Donoet  Head*. 
Bat  as  the  proprietors  bai^e  not^  for  manj  years,  paid- 
say  atCentioQ  Ho  that  objoft,  it  is  not  poffiUe  for  the  pooc 
fsmicrs  to  reap  much'  advantage  frcpn  it ;  as.  the  fheep  therft< 
iiiaft.bc  ezpofed.  to  xMny  accidents,  from  the  height  of  tho- 
rocks,  and  from  the  ravenous  animalSf  if  not  pmperlyi 
attended. 

AriNr/  and  Ibn^r-^The^parifli  belongs  to  3  heritors  ;  andb 
%  of:  thefe  refide  o^cafionally  in.  it.  The  valued  rent  i>a; 
i309l«  i-as.  6d«  Scotch ;  and:  the  real  rent  about  95f2L. 
Sterling* 

Ecfbfiq^ical  Siati^^—Tht.  value  of.  the  livfang,  is  about 
9aU  Sterling,  incl^diog  the  glebe.  Sir  Johk  SikcLlAUl  o£ 
Utf  snK«  B%rt«  is  patrgin*    The.  parifli  church  is  an  ancieni^ 

bnildingi;: 


a  It  JMt  not  Jieefi  potfible  toafceffttio  an  averajg^ei  ehher  riF  tbo  export  or  ini^ 
fffty  with  accancy.  But,  from  the  beft  infomiation  that  cf 0  be  got  on  the  fob- 
jc^  aboot  300  coltt  are  annually  imported  into  Orkney ;  mnd  bmewhat  more 
than  half  .at  many  hoii«a  retomed.  Such  aa  arc  carjried  to.  the  north  iflcs'  of 
Qtkoey,  ficldom  return,  but  ar^  alloiff ed  .t^  renaia..tliefic:f  till  they  die  of  old; 
ag^  as  in  other  paru  of  fl^e  kingdom. 

f  Mf^  James  FuUerton  waamiaifter  at  the  Revohtsont  and  waa  foccccdtd  by. 
Ma.  George  Ofirald,  fomc  time  before  the  cod  of  USk  century^  Dr.  Jame» 
Qfcrnld  foccecdad'hta  father  in  tjtji  and  being  rtfjioTed  to  McthTen,  in  JPcrth- 
ibirc,  in  1750,  waafucceedcd  by  Dr.  George  Trail ;  to  whom  the  prefeot  incum. 
Wnt  was  fettled  affiiUnt  and  fuccclTorv  in  1 784,  and  fuceesded  to  the  chaage  u^ 


4£6  Statiftical  Account 

baildibg*i  but  It  b  Neither  commodious,  nor  in  good  repair. 
The  laft  manfe  was  built  in  1765.   But  as  the  undertaker  had 
only  I  cool.  Scotch  for  executing  the  work,  it  was  never  pro- 
perly finiihed.     As  the  incumbent,  however,  had  a  numerous 
family,  he  found  it  convenient  to  give  the  old  manfe  foxne 
repair,  at  his  own  expence.     The  prefent  incnmbent  had  a 
fmall  allowance  from  the  heritors,  for  giving  it  «  farther  re«- 
pair.     Neither  the  roanfes,  however,  nor  the  offices,  are  ia 
good  condition.     There  are  no  feftariesy  excepting  9  or  5 
families  of  Seceders.' 

School  and  Poor.— -The  fchoolmaller's  falary  is  only 
til.  133.  4d.  Sterling ;  and,  as  the  emoluments  frdm  teaching, 
and  other  perquifites,  are  inconliderable,  it  is  not  Worth  cheT 
acceptance  of  a  perfon  of  education.  The  prefent  teacher's 
knowledge  extends  only  to  reading  £ngli(h,  writing,  Ind  the 
common  rules  of  arithmetic.  The  pari(h  has  the  benefit  of  a 
Society  fpinaing  fchool.  Apd  as  tHe  different  partis  of  it  are 
much  detached  from  one  another,  it  has  been  found  convenient 
to  have  2  or  3  private  fchoob,  in  the  remoteft  corners.  At 
thefe  diffierent  fchools  theje  have  been,  for  the  laft  3  years, 
generally  about  90  fcholars,  male  and  female.  The  only  lan- 
guage taught  and  fpoken  is  Englifli. — ^As  the  people  are,  in 
general,  in  low  circumftanoesf  the  weekly  coUe&ions  for  che^ 

poof 

*  It  is  not  known  it  what  period  it  wasbntlt;  but  fi'om  traditibD,  and  from' 
c^hercirctunihmcM,  if  wm' probably-  fome  time  before  the  Refonnation.  There 
is  a  gravc-ftone  in  the  church-yard,  the  tnfcription  of  which  hat  a  ftroog  re* 
femblanre  to  the  ftory  of  the  itsfoftuoate  Mi£i  Rae,  which  was  fo  much  the 
fubjetft  of  convcrfation  fome  years  ago.  The  inlcription  is,—**  Here  lies' 
^  Margaret  Wallace,  daughter  of  William  Wallace,  who  was  murdered  by 
■<  Alexaodei  Caldcr,  fon  of  Alexander  CaUer  in  Dusftaet,  becaufe  he  could  not 
^  have  har  in  marriage.  Augjuft  th<  a9th,  in  the  year  of  God  1 635.**— There 
is  ftill  a  tradition,  that  the  murder  was  committed  on  a  Sunday  morDing;.asd 
that  the  znvrdcrcri  by  fleeing  to  Orkney,  efcaped  puniihment, 

5 


xff  DunneL  257 

poor  are  ezceediagly  finadl.  Hencs  Aey  woidd  hare  beea 
-wtxj  dcftitute,  b^d  It  not  been  for  the  liberality  of  the  late 
]Rcv.  Dr.  James  Ofwdd,  who  was  a  native  of  the  patifli,  and 
vho  fettled  an  annuity  of  aol.  Sterling,  for  charitable  pui^ 
.poCes  in  it. 

^iB/f9ii/ir}V#.-*-Tfaei%  are  few  namral  cnriofkies  in  the  pariSx^ 
excepting  a  or  3  caves^  in  the  rocks  of  Dnnnet  Head,  and 
^one  at  Ham.  But  as  thcaccefs  to  them  is  dtiBctilt,  they  htive 
not  been  fuiSciently  ex;iflMned  to  permit  a  defcnption.  None 
of  them,  however,  exceptiog  the  laft,  are  fuppofed  to  be  of 
great  extent.  Veftiges  of  3  chapels  are  ftill  yifible.  One 
of  thefe  is  fituated  in  Dunnet  Head,  and  fuppofed  to  have 
been  a  place  of  penance.  Two  inner  cells  of  PiAs  houfea 
are  dill  entire  at  Ham.  Thefe  appear  to  be  divided  only 
)>▼  a  ftone  partition,  3  or  4  feet  thick,  probably  hearted  with 
earth*. 

CharaBer. — The  inhabitants  are,  in  general,  a  lagacious 

people  \  and,  excepting  in  fo  far  as  they  are  prevented  by 

Vol.  XI.  Kk  their 


"  The  entnnces  are  tboat  8  feet  afuisder,  and  fee«  to  have  led  from  2  outer 
drcolar  apartmenta,  of  about  17  or  t%  feet  diameter,  which  appear  to  haye 
had  a  communication  from  the  one  to  the  other.  The  entrance  to  tiie  largeft 
cell  it  near  30  inches  wide ;  but  at  it  it  much  filled  up  with  earth,  it  it  not 
known  what  the  heighth  of  it  nay  have  ocigioaUy  been*  The  cell  it  about  y 
feet  long,  and  -6  feet  wide  about  the  middle;  but  becomes  narrower  towards 
the  farther  extremity,  which  U  circular.  The  roof  it  at  prefent  about  5  feet 
from  the  earth  in  the  floon  The  wallt  are  conftru<&ed  of  large  rough  ftones, 
apparently  without  any  kind  of  cament.  Every  courfe  in  the  walls  project  a 
Utile  over  that  immediately  below  it,  till  they  approach  within  about  3  feet  of 
one  another.  That  fpace  it  covered  by  a  courfe  of  (Irong  done  lintelt.  The 
iJoatler  cell  it  finiihed  in  the  iame  nuuaner.  And  the  whole  is  covered  with 
earth,  which  forms  a  beautiful  greea  mount,  about  8  or  p  feet  above  the  level  of 
ibe  adjacent  ficl4* 


a^B  Staff/iical  Account 

(their  ▼icinitj  ^  the  lee,  i^peer  to  want  nothing  bat  a  ibffi- 
|nent  fpnr  tp  make  them  induftrious.  Thej  have  not  jet, 
bowe?er>  overcome  all  thelMd  habita  that  unlimited  Cervices, 
npon  ^e  fmnp  of  the  proprietor?,  naturally  produce.  But 
as  that  pernicious  fervitude  is  now  almoft  wholly  abolifliedp 
there  is  every  reafon  to  hope,  that  the  moft  happy  efi^fis  will 
(oon  aj^pear.  And  as  fome  of  the  tenants  are  obtaining  mo* 
derate  leafes,  and  beginning  to  improve  their  fmall  pofleffions» 
it  is  not  to  be  doubted,  that  they  will  enjoy  a  degree  of  iiU 
dependence  and  comfort  unknoiP?n  to  (heir  predeceflbrs. 


^MP^ 


i'-  *•  •• 


ff  Wiatiri.  «59 


N  n  M  B  E  It    XI& 


fARilSH  OF   WATTINi 

^County  md  Prefiyierj  of  Caitinefs^^ynoi  tf  CiUhhefs  and 
'  Suth'etldnd.') 


hf  the  Reif.  Mr.  Joseph  TaTLOR,  Miniftirl 


Name,  Siiuatum^  and  Extioi* 


WHENCE  or  Kow  this  ^aridi  obtained  the  name  of 
Wattin^  cantibt  be  determined  with  nnj  certainty* 
Perhaps  it  Was  from  the  large  lake  of  that  tta[me»  as  thote 
who  pretend  to  an  acquaintance  with  the  Danilh  lay,  that  the 
word  Waitm^  in  that  language^  is  the  fame  with  waUr  in  onrs. 
tt  is  an  inland  pariih,  fitjiated.  in  the  centre  of  the  eonnty  of 
CaithneCi.  It  is  of  coniiderable  extent,  fiietching,  from  S. 
to  N«,  between  8  and  9  computed  miles  $  andi  from  £;  to 
W.,  about  7. 

Soil  and  Cttmdte.^^Thi  (oil,  in  general,  is  of  an  excellent 
Quality  I  confiding  of  a  rich  deep  loam,  ftiff  and  friable  elay } 
land  mixed  with  day  $  and  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  moon 

Kka  and 


^6ct  TStati/Hcdf  Accwnt 

and  tnofleSs  of  which  there  is  great  extent,  it  is  for  the  moff 
part  verj  light.— The  air  is  fluirp  and  pure,  and  die  cliiaate 
verj  chang^hle  from  heat  to  oold,  Cromwet  to  dry,  and  frooi^ 
fre(h  to  fsoft.  Snow  feldora  lies  for  any  length  of  time ;  nc^ 
▼ertheleis,  the  inhabitants  are  yary  healthy. 

JRfvrr,  Laief,  and  fijb^  %3c — ^The  fmall  river  Wick  has  iu 
Iburce  in  the  rifiog  grounds,  which  diride  this  parifh  from  that 
af  ,Latbefon«  In  its  courfe,  it  is  joined  by  %  ftreams ;  the  ono 
ifluing  from  the  lake  of  Thfttngmll^  lying  on  the  S.  W* 
boundary  \  the  other  from  that  of  Watting  fituated  nearly  in 
the  centre  of  the  pariih.  It  is  a  large  and  beautiful  fheet  of 
water,  extending  full  3  miles  from  £•  to  W.,  and  nearly  % 
from  S.  to  N%  Eek  and  trouts  are  caught  in  it.  Sea  fowls, 
and  ducks  of  different  kinds,  frequent  it. 

Po^/flr^fOJf.-^From  the  catechlfing  rolls,  made  up  at  differ* 
ent  periods,  it  appears,  that  there  has  been  a  gradual  decreafe 
in  the  population^  within  tiiefe  ao  years. 

)n  the  year  1774,  tbeparUh  cootaned  X435  ^^^ 

.1780,. 1 1 s^^i^  13)58.    Decreafe,     67 

:jr-- Jt79^»     ^  xas^t    '3* 

-  Totaddecrcafe  in  18  years,         -        205, 

IBut,:  m  th^year  tjs$t  the  fetom  to  1 
•   Br.  Wabfter  having  bean  S 

Jltucfr  it  sppetrs,  th«t  ^t^  hitd  been  an-  iiicreafe,  in 
19  years,  of         -         -        -  -         -    .      -         rr 

^And  that  the  tQ,^il  de(:reafe,,  in  3.7  yetrS|  is  only.       i*    ^  i^ 


rfWattui.  i^t 

XiM»  dtcreafe  i^pivdy  to  be  afcvibtd  ta  t&e  ttore  eify  and 
faemiMi  nievcQiitie  with  xhn  mord  fcutheni  ooiiBiies,  whew 
wages.  o£  eycry  kinil  a»  dMugkt  aioi«;i»viMig;  pardy  to^ 
title  finlate  of  ooops  .xfSaaod  1783,  whiofa  forocd'niaay  from 
Oeir  BirtiTe  faamet  ^  aad  psrtly  to  tb«  gsomng  eaiMnt  of  farttK. 

lotliejear  1730  there  were  59  Bapti(hii»aad  19  Marri»gcit. 
1740  «4  9 

1750  fe  <J 

»?«•  47  ir  ' 

i77«  •©    •  ''     H 

»790;  45  8 

,  .  335  .     «i  . 

Annual  aTcra^  of  eqlii-difUnt  pe» 

riodi  wkBiii  60  yean,  •         47  6-7ths  i»  i«7tb 

SiritorSf  Renf^  and  Poor.— This  parifh  is  the  ptoperty  of 
9.  heritorsi  a  of  whom  only  refide. — The  valued  rent  amounu 
to  X9391*  4s«  rod.  Scotch..^ince  X782,  the  number  upon  the 
poot^s  roll  has  been  greater,  than  at  any  period  fince  regular 
rolls  appear  to  have  been  kept  here.  It  cannot,  however,  be 
faid  that  their  funds  increafe  in  proportion.  CHur  ordinary 
colledions,  at  an  average,  do  not  exceed  xs«  Sterling  pet 
Sabbath.  Thofe,  on  facraraental  occafions,  amount  only  te^ 
between  2l.  and  3!*  This,  with  the  intereft  of  about  xool.,  and 
the  occafional  fines  paid  by  delinquents,  are  all  that  the  poor  o£ 
this  parilh  have  to  look  to.  And,  were  it  not  for  the  charity 
of  their  ai&uent  fellow  men,  their  wants  would  be  infupport* 
able.  All  that  thefe  funds  will  admit  of^  is,  the  price  of  a 
pair  of  fhoes  tp  fome  i  as  much  as  will  buy  a  coarfe  covering 
toothers;  and  what  may  purchafe  a  firlot  or  6- pecks  of  meal^ 

during 

P  There  heiog  feveral  hxupng  placet  within  the  bmindt  of  the  pariib,  b«fidM 
die  chvchHyard,  the  nvmhcr  of  deaths  cannot  be  afccrtained* 


%62  ^tatjfiical  Jbcount 

i^na^  die  fearceft  ieaioiiy  to  thft  moft  iadigeot.    Bj  Ae  com-*' 
«»€iid9ble  liberalitj  of  our  heritor^  who  latdj  pnrdiiiiBA  tbe' 
krgeft  cfiate  in  the  psrifli,  the  more  neceffitous  have  hpd  dieir 
yearly  allowance  intoreafied.     This  is  not  neocioned  watfa  a 
view  to  flatter,  but  as  an  esample  worthy  the  imi'taticm'  of 
non*refiding  heritors  in  general.     It  is  a  duty  incuoibeae  up- 
on them  to  remember  the  poor,  within  the  bounds  of  fihAr  re- 
fpedive  parilhes,  by  contribnting  aniiaally  (omewhat  (or  their 
Support.     Heritors  draw  a  great  part  of  the  produce  of  their 
eftates,  to  fpend  whefe  they  will,  and  at  their  pleafure ;  wInliE 
the  poor,  upon  that  very  fpot  which  maintailis  them  in  eafe 
and  affluence,  are  deprived  of  ttfting  the  (inalkft  offid  which 
itaay  come  from  their  table. 

Church  and  SchooL^-'From  2744  to  l^g2t  the  living  was 
joo  merks,  ao  bolls  oatmeal,  and  la  bolls  bear,  widi  40L 
•Scotch,' in  name  of  communion  element  money ;  befides  a  gXebe, 
Confiding  of  about  12  acres,  part  of  which  is  of  a  very  indi& 
ferent  quality.  L'aft  fumnier,'  an  augmentation' was  obtained,' 
inodifying  the  yearly  iBpend  to  j^l.  ids.'  Sterling,'  ao  bolb 
batmeal,  il  bolls  bear,  and  401.  Scotch  for  communion  ele- 
inents'.  Tlie  manfe  and  offices  were  rebuilt  in  fummer  I7'8i; 
the  church  wa^fe^aired  in  1784;  abd  the  fchbol-^'oiife  is  about 
to  be  rebuilt  the  enfuin^  feafon.  The  fchdolmaller's  &lary 
was  modified  in  the  year  17(6,  by  the  Commilbonen  oIT  Sop- 
^y,  to  be  X  chalder  oatmeal,  and  56  merks  in  money,  yearly; 
leaving  it  optional  to  the  fevefal  heritors  to'  pay  their  pro^ 
portion  of  the  visual,  either  in  kind  or  in  money,  at  the  rate 
of  5!.  Scotch  per  boll.  AH  of  them  chofe  to  pay  their  rei 
fpefiive  proportions  in  moiiey,'  to  iht  no  fmatl  prejudice  rf 
The  teadher.  It  is' much  to  be  regretted,  that  in  tbu  our  cl!. 
vilized  country,  fuch  an  ufeful  body  of  men  (bould  be  fo  much 
negleded.    The  education  of  youth  is  an  objeft  highly  de- 

fetying 


of  Wattin.  26j^ 

fcrving  the  attention  and  encouragement  of  every  enlightened 


Occmpaiions^  ImpnmeminiSf  ^c. — There  being  neither  vily. 
lage  nor  manu&Aory  within  the  bounds  of  this  pariih,  its  in-* 
Jiadtttants  are  all  enplojed  in  the  bufinefs  of  fanning.    Even 
our  tradefmen  (of  whom  there  are  fufficient  numbers  of  everj 
idnd  to  fupply  the  demands  of  houfeholders),  as  well  as  our 
femotSy  betake  |hem((Blves  to  that  opcupation,  dividing  their 
time  between  the  labours  of  the  field,  and  their  particular  pro* 
fcflSMMis.    As  to  our  improvements  in  farming,  it  muft  be  al- 
lowed^ w^  are  ftiU  greatlj  behind  ou^  fellow  fubjefts  in  the 
moce  {bndiern  counties.  At  the  fame  time,  every  one,  capable 
of  snaking  the  observation,  fees,  that  confiderable  progrefs  has 
lieeo  made,  during  the  pourfe  of  12  or  14  years  paft.     Now, 
the  fpirit  becomes  daily  more  vigorous  ;  and,  in  a  few  years 
hence,  large  trads  will  afliime  a  different  appearance.  Nature 
has  been  uncommonly  favourable  to  us.     Our  com  fields  are„ 
fi»r  die  ssoft  part,  extenfive,  though  as  yet,  in  many  places. 
irregular."'  They  hang,  with  an  eafy  declivity,  from  S.  to  N., 
amd  from  N.'  to  S. :  And  the  moors  and  commons,  though  not 
rich,  afford  an  eztenfive  pafture  to  fmall  black  cattle,  iheep, 
andhories,  '^ 

PfWure-^Bear  and  oats,  with  as  many  potatoes  as  are  fuf- 
ficient to  ferve  the  people,  are  the  cfops  generally  cultivated. 
Our  oats  are  partly  of  the  black',  and  partly  of  the  grey 
^ind :  The  former,  weighing  from  10  to  zif  ftones  per  boll, 
according  to  the  foil  and  culture  they  meet  with  ;  the  latter 
from  7  to  8  Ilones,  and.  of  a  very  poor  quality.  The  only 
Teafon,  which  can  be  affigned  for  continuing  to  fow  them,  is, 
that  they  fland  almoft  any  wind.  Several  of  the  gentlemen 
farmers  fow  fome  white  oats ;  and,  where  the  land  is  good,  and 
*    •'  wcl^ 


umil  prepartd,  tb^  oofwer  to  thek  £m«£iflki«eu    Xhe  ] 
nlitj,  however,  of  farmers  are  prejudiced  againft  them^  fe 
a  belief  that  thej  are  not  fo  fruitful  as  either  the  hlwck,  or 
gcey  i  befiides  being  much  more  liable  tio  be  ibaloM. 

^rfVir/torY-*-Tboiigb  -this  be  the  coomon  plan  of  oKop-^ 
jptag,  it  is  oeverthclefs  allowed,  bj  ever7  one  ikiUcd  in  inrm- 
jng,  that  our  foil  is  exfieedtngly  well  adaj^ted  for  iprecn  cnopn 
of  every  kind.  And,  upon  trial,  it  has  been  foond  to  be  the 
wcafe.  For  fereral  years  paft,  large  fields  have  been  laid  down 
in  grab,  tumipst  peafe  and  beans  ;  ail  of  which  have  anfwered 
«he  moft  fangttine  expeftation.  Triai^is  making  jnft  mw, 
whether  wheat  may  not  be  raifed.  Eight  bolls  wene  town 
2aft  fenfon ;  an4«  though  the  winter  has  been  very  mlnvour-. 
pki^  it  promifes  £sicly.  fiedgesy  too,  have  the  appeoxnnce  of 
Aicceeding  to  advantage.  Mose  vi^rou^  healihy  jhooca  could 
not  .be  defiiwd,  than&<rfe  to  be  feengtowing^ironnd  the  ditclics 
.upon  the  Mainfl  of  Watdn*  Abont  oo  years  ago,  the  out*. 
Jiines  of  a  large  farm,  on  Che  S.  fide  of  the  loch,  were  laid  with 
thorns ;  and,  though  toealty  neglefted,  both  is  to  cleaning  and 
4ieffiflg,  feveral  dtains  lengths,  widiont  a  breach,  have  come 
to  fuch  per£edion«  as  to  he  a  f uficient  £enoe  againft  ^  kinds 
of  cattle.  The  fields  under  culture  are  mucl)  infeftod,  both 
with  top  and  root  weeds.  But  this  is  owing  to  the  eftabliflied 
mode  of  farming,  and  not  to  any  natural  t,endeocy  in  the  (oil* 
The  iofield  groimd  is  perpetually  under  tiUage.  One  jpcar, 
a  third  part  goes  to  bear^  and  the  other  two  thiuds  to  oats  ^ 
and  ib  00^  in  conftant  rotation.  The  ikiaHnfffs  of  thek  pof- 
ieflions,  and  the  uncertain  tenor  by  which  ^ticy  hold  ifaem^ 
prevents  their  attempting  to  fiiUow.  Indeed,  they  have  tittle 
jinclination  that  way ;  nor  will  their  prefent  circiiinft«noes|>eF- 
init  tbem  to  undergo  an  immediate  la&,  far  Che  pmfpcjft  of 
future  gain.     Without  flock  to  begin  upon,  very  few  -ever 


bf  Wattin.  (i6s 

jet  atove  the  world.  Aitd  this  feems  to  be  the  principal  rea- 
fon  of  their  being  fo  averfe  to  hold  their  pofleffions  by  leaf*. 
Unable  to  bear  an j  great  lofs,  either  by,  failure  of  crop  of 
tattle,  they  think  themfelves  fafeft,  when  free  to  remove  at  any 
term  they  choofe,  after  finding  matters  likely  to  go  againft 
tbem.  And  yet,  notwithftanding  of  this,  removals  are  by  no 
means  fo  frequent  as  might  be  expeftcd.  It  is  very  common 
to  fee  the  fon  fucceed  the  father,  and  end  his  days  within: 
the  Waifs  of  the  fame  dwelling  in  which  he  was  born. 

Farmi^  \3c. — ^The  ordinary  extent  of  farms,  is  from  x 2  to  20 
acres  infield,  from  2  to  6  oatfteld,  from  i  to  2  meadow;  off 
'Which  they  cut  a  {hort  kind  of  natural  hay,  with  fome  acres 
of  pafture  ground,  and  the  liberty  of  common.  The  yearly 
rent  of  fuch  pofleiBons  is  from  2!.  to  jl*  Serling,  and  from  6 
to  9  bolls  oatmeal,  at  9  ot  ^  flohesper  boll.  Tbey  like  wife 
pay  fome  feet  of  cufiom  peats,  as  they  are  called ;  the  nutiiber 
almoft  nniverially  ill  proportion  to  the  £ftance  they  are  at 
from  the  moft  ;  from  8  to  12,  or  13  fowls,  with  iht  cutting 
down  of  an  acre,  or  an  acre  and  a  half  of  corn*  Such  fmall 
poffeflion^,  amd  there  are  very  many  below  this  extent,  cannot 
afford  mu6h  for  the  fabfiftence  of  the  labourer  and  his  family ; 
sod  may  be  affigned  as  a  reafon  why  the  inhabitants  in  general 
ate  fd  very  poor.  A  fpirit  for  larger  farms,*  however,  now 
begins  to^ break  otit  amongft  them.  Several  are  venturing  to 
join  two  into  one.  Unlimited  fervices,  fome  time  ago  exa£led 
almoff  by  every  proprietor,  are  nearly  aboHIhed  in  this  place* 
The  abolhiott  of  this  pra£^ice,  baneful  in  the  highed  degree, 
both  to  the  intetefts  and  morals  of  the  people,  has  made  a  very 
perceptible  change^  not  only  on  their  fpirit,  but  oii  their  indnf« 
try.  Still,  however,  they  require  to  be  encouraged,  if  not 
nurfcd  by  their  landlords.  Improvement,  even  in  hnibandry, 
is  not  to  be  expeAcd,  but  by  the  labour  of  the  aftuol  farmer. 

Vol.  XI.    ,  L 1  Proprietors 


a66  Statiftical  Account 

Proprietors  may  trim  up  and  adorn  a  few  acres,  around  their 
own  manfions,  but  it  is  only  the  judicious,  diligent,  perfevetinj; 
efforts  of  the  hufbandman,  which  extends  improvement,  and 
renders  it  bene ficiaUy  lading  to  the  public  at  large. 

Method  of  Plowing. — Their  yoke  confifts  of  4  beafts  ; 
horfcs,  oxen,  or  cows,  as  they  happen  to  have,  or  can  afford 
them,  all  going  abreaft,  and  drawing  by  thiets.  One  treads 
conftantly  upon  the  tilled  land,  another  goes  in  the  furrow,  and 
two  upon  the  ftubble,  or  white  land.  The  perfon  driving 
walks  backwards,  holding  the  cattle  tied  with  halters, 
and  taking  care  that  each  beaft  has  its  equal  {hare  of  the 
draught.  This,  though  moft  aukward  to  appearance,  is  a 
method  of  yoking,  by  which  the  creatures  evidently  fieem  to 
have  mo&  power.  Were  they  yoked  in  any  other  way,  it  does 
not  appear  that  they  would  be  able  to  ciraw  a  plough,  with 
any  thing  like  a  furrow,  after  them.  One,  not  accuftomed  to 
their  manner,  upon  looking  at  their  pitiful  fize,  and  lean  con« 
dition,  would  not  think  they  were  able^  many  of  them,  fo  fiv 
to  blacken  a  rig  (raife  a  furrow),  as  to  cover  the  feed :  Yet 
fome  of  them  will  turn  ov6r  the  mould  to  the  depth  of  about 
4  inches  \  and  it  is  furpriiing  what  good  crops  their  Jbufflmg 
labour  produces,  both  of  bear  and  oats.  When  the  feafbn  is 
^ry,  a  part  of  the  ground  is  plowed,  after  the  corns  are  ga^ 
thered  in,  generally  for  the  following  bear  crop.  During  the 
winter  feafon,  and  the  firft  month  of  fpring,  nothing  without 
doors  is  done.  The  whole  of  their  time  is  employed  ia 
threihing  down  and  manufaduring  the  crop.  As  foon  as  the 
weather  fets  in  dry,  and  the  land  becomes  fit  for  plowing, 
which  generally  is  not  before  the  beginning  or  middle  of 
March,  they  are  on  the  fields,  labouring  from  morning  to 
night.  When  once  they  begin,  greater  aftivity,  or  more  per- 
ievcrance^  is  not  to  be  feea  amongil  aay  body  of  people.  The 

lame 
-5 


of  Watttn.  iCj 

fiune  fpirit  is  obleryable  during  the  harveft  feafon.  In  fam- 
mer  and  winter,  it  mud  be  allowed,  the  like  praife  is  not  due 
to  them** 

Seofons. — ^Vegetation  here  makes  but  flow  progrfefs  during 
the  firft  part  of  the  feafon.  Until  towards  the  fummer  fol« 
ftice,  both  corn  and  grafs  make  but  a  poor  appearance.  In* 
deed,  as  to  the  latter,  few  think  of  keeping  off  their  cattle 
before  they  fioith  their  labouring;  and  naany  ftill  permit  them 
to  traverfe,  and  feed  even  upon  the  fown  land,  till  the  bear 
feed  is  begun*  But,  when  once  cattle  of  every  kind  are  care« 
fiillj  kept  off,  and  the  night  begins  to  lengthen,  it  is  fur- 
pri6ng  what  vigour  vegetation  affumes,  and  what  ^uick  pro«- 
grefs  it  makes  f. 

•  Afwot  to  yeari  ago,  few,  if  any,  thought  of  plowing  before  the  middlo 
«f  Bifanh,  even  when  the  feafon  wat  favourable.  And,  when  they  did  begin,  it 
wai^  for  the  moft  part,  with  giving  the  firft.forrow  to  their  beat  land  I'bcy  ne* 
vtr  thought  of  laying  down  their  oa^  before  the  middle  of  April ;  and  every 
Aoe  was  defirous  that  the  feed  fliould  follow  the  plough  at  faft  as  poflible.  But, 
ever  fioce  the  year  1783,  they  turn  out  at  any  time  When  the  ground  is  fit  for 
piowtog,  and  are  anxioni  to  have  the  feed  fown  as  ibon  as  poffible ;  from  a  con* 
«idioD,chat  an  early  laying  down  is  both  laieft  and  moft  fobftantial. 

f  Oar  harvefts  are  not  fo  kte  as  might  be  expc&ed,  confidering  how  far 
north  we  lie.  For  foveral  years  pad,  they  have  not  been  either  fo  early,  or  fo 
good,  as  they  were  wont  to  be.  But  this  has  not  been  peculiar  to  us.  Lcff 
damage  is  fuftained  here,  by  a  ratpy  feafon,  than  in  moft  countries.  High 
winds  fometimes  break  down  a  good  deal  of  corn,  about  the  time  they  are 
ocirly  fbU;  but  any  thing  confiderable  of  this  kind  fcldom  happens,  our  grain 
hciog  of  a  hardy  qo^ity.  To  prevent  lols  by  rain,  great  care  is  taken  to  fe« 
cure  the  corns,  when  cut,  as  foon  as  polfible.  Little  attention  is  paid,  by  the 
general  run  of  farmers,  to  win  the  grain  in  the  ftook.  They  are  careful  to  cue 
when  dry ;  and,  if  poffible,  before  it  gets  focked  with  rain,  they  put  it  together 
in  very  fmall  ftacks,  allowing  it  to  Ue  in  that  ilate  for  feveral  weeks.  When 
deadened  by  lying  in  this  manner,  they  lay  it  open  a  fecond  time,  by  building  it 
^pcnia  i(ackt,  coniiderably  larger  than  the  former,  and  fit  to  (Und  the  wint^ 

fc4»a% 


2 68  Statj/iical  Account 

FuiL — The  labouring  being  ended,  the  next  work  which 
conaes  oo,  is  to  make  provifion  for  winter  firing4  We  have 
fuel  in  great  abundance,  and  of  an  excellent  quality.  Caftifig« 
winning,  and  carrying  home  their  peats,  however,  coafunies 
a  greit  deal  of  time,  iiotwith (landing  thej  be  at  no  great  dif* 
taace  from  them,  mod  places  having  readj  accefs  to  the  ad«* 
jacent  moors  and  commons.  Their  labour,  in  this  refped, 
however,  will  become  lefs,  as  the/  oow  begin  to  ufe  carts 
even  for  that  purpofe.  As  yet  they  are,  in  general,  of  a  ver  j 
trifling  kind,  though,  at  the  fame  time,  tolerably  well  adapted 
to  the  fi^e  of  their  cattle;  and  the  principal  ufe  made  of  tbcmi 
is  to  carry  out  their  dung  in  the  bear-feed  feafoa.  Amongft 
the  gentlemen  and  more  fubftantial  farmers,  carts  of  a  verj 
good  fize  are  ufed  ;  fome  drawn  by  horfes,  others  by  a  oxen, 
and  applied  to  all  the  purpofcs  of  farming  and  carriages. 

Houjcs^  Cattle^  y^:.— After  the  peals  are  l^rought  home,  their 
next  labour,  is  the  repairing  and  trimming  of  their  houfes :  And 
this  they  are  under  the  neceffity  of  doing  annually.  We  have 
no  wood  growing  ;  and  what  is  imported  fells  at  a  very  high 
rate.  This  circumilance  obliges  the  people  to  ufe  as  little  of 
that  article,  in  jthe  condruftion  of  their  houfes,  as  polilble. 
Though  their  poflei&ons  be  fmall,  they  keep  a  number  of 
cattle,  poorly  fed,  at  all  feafons.  A  fiarmer  here,  who  rents 
only  to  the  extent  of  31.  and  9  bolls,  makes  a  {hift  to  keep 
'alive  from  4  to  6  little  horfes,  from  16  to  20  head  of  black 
cattle,  and  from  20  to  30  head  of  flieep.  This  ftock  (for, 
during  all  feafons,  they  are  houfed  in  the  night  time,  except 
their  horfes,  which,  throughout  the  fummer,  lie  on  the  com- 

monsy 


jTcafou.  By  thcfe  means,  thty  hftve  an  opportunity  of  dtfcovering  any  IheaTet 
that  tnay  chance  to  be  fpoiled  by  rain  or  heat,  and  of  l<rpanidDg  them  from 
what  is  entirely  found. 


of  Waltln.  ^69 

S|  aoda  ia  harveft,  ftand  upon  Uthir^  during  the  night 
as   well  as   dsij)^  requires  confiderable   extent   of  houfing* 
Tkough  heritors  furniQi  wood  for  the  firil  crcdion,  or  give 
allowance  to  the  tenant  upon  his  removal,  ftill  lie  is  ezpofed 
Xo  confiderable  ezpence.     Seeing  they  bold  their  poiTefEons 
without  anj  leafe,  and  being  themfelves  but  in  flraitened  cir^ 
/camfiancesi  it  is  neither  fafe  nor  convenient  for  them,  either 
to  laj  out  monej,  or  fpend  a  great  deal  of  labour,  for  their 
accommodation  in  the  article  of  houfing.     On  thefe  accounts* 
they  /themfelves,  as  well  ?s  their  cattle,  are  but  poorly  accom- 
modated in  that  refped.     The  walls  of  their  dwelling  houfes 
conCIl  of  a  or  3  feet  of  ftone,  coarfely  huddled  together  with 
3  or  4  feet  of  feal  laid  above  them  :  Their  roofs  very  thinly 
wooded,  aud  covered  with  the  lighted  divots  (or  turfs)  they 
can  procure,  tied  dowo  with  ropes  made  of  heather,  to  prevent 
blowing  oflF  by  the  wind.   Bams,  byres,  and  fiablcs,  it  may  be 
believed,  are  not  more  elegant  and  fubilantial.     Compofed  of 
fuch  coarfe  materials,  and  put  together  with  fo  little  art,  they 
cannot  be  very  lading,  efpecially  when  expofed  to  the  (everity 
pf  a  boifterous  climate. 

i)^£&ri>/.— Qf  late  years,  the  greater  part  of  their  bear  is 
diftilied  by  themfelves ;  and,  it  is  to  be  feared,  too  much  of 
it  is  drank,  without  bringing  what  it  otherwife  might  into 
their  pockets.  From  the  number  of  fmall  dills  in  the  coun- 
try, they  have  an  opportunity,  as  often  as  they  choofe,  of 
drawing  3  bolls  of  malt,  upon  paying  the  owner  of  the  dill  a 
certain  confideratton.  This  produce  they  difpofe  of  as  they 
bed  can;  and,  while  they  are  employed  in  the  manufa&uring 
and  difpofiog  of  it,  they  have  likewife  an  opportunity  of 
fafiing ;  and  thus  lofing  their  time,  and  fpending  parr,  at 
lead,  of  their  profits.  Neither  their  conditutions,  nor  morals, 
are  gainers  by  this  new  branch  of  buiinefs,  whatever  advan- 
tage 


2  70  Statiftical  Account 

tage  It  maj  briag  to  the  revenue  ;  and  it  will  bear  a  queftion^y 
"whether  their  profits  are,  upon  the  whole,  mach  incrcaTeci 
by  it. 

Commerce. — ^What  quantity  of  grain,  of  the  growth  o€ 
this  parifli,  mav  be  fold,  is  imp(^ble  to  fay  with  certainty. 
There  muu,  however,  be  fotnething  confiderable,  befides  the 
viftual  rent,  which  is  at  leaft  the  half  of  what  is  paid,  and 
which  feldom,  if  ever,  fails  to  be  exported.  The  Weft 
Highlands  is  the  common  market.  Indeed,  it  requires  na 
fmall  quantity  of  grain  to  maintain  the  inhabitants f.  Befides 
what  vi£tual  they  may  difpofe  of,  after  paying  their  rents, 
and  maintaining  their  families,  which  is  more  or  lefs  in  pro* 
portion  to  the  extent  of  their  farms,  and  the  number  of  eaters, 
they  fell  annually  i,  a,  or  3  ydung  cattle,  as  they  can  fp«re« 
Thefe  being  poorly  fed,  at  all  feafons,  bring  but  little  money. 
And  when  no  demand  oomes  from  the  South,  t^ey  are  at  a 
lofs  to  difpofe  of  them,  owing  chiefly  to  the  narrownefs  of 
the  country.  The  general  run  of  ftots  and  qneys, '  reared 
here,  from  3  to  4  years  old,  feldom  fetch  above  30s.  or  40s., 
according  to  their  fite  and  fliape.  Milk  cdws  and  labouring 
oxen,  particularly  the  latter,  give  a  tolerable  price,  and,  of 
late  years,  have  rifen  greatly  in  their  value.  Horfes,  confix 
dering  their  fmall  fize,  fell  exceedingly  high.  This  circum- 
fiance  is  juft  beginning  to  induce  gentlemen,  and  fome  of  the 
more  fubftantial  farmers,  to  ufe  a  larger  fizc  than  the  original 
breed  of  the  country.  Inftead  of  4  garrma^  as  they  are  here 
called,  drawing  a  plough,  a  tolerable  fizcd  horfes  are  ufed  by 
ieveral.  From  the  great  number  oeceflary  to  carry  on  work 
of  every  fort,  agreeable  to  the  praftice  of  thexountry,  they 

do 

t  Oat  and  bear  meal,  with  what  nilk  they  can  afford,  are  the  chief  article 
«f  their  fubfiftence.  Very  little  butcher  meat  i«  ufcd  amongU  them.  The  qqa 
^  wj;cublet  are  a  few  cabbajres  and  poutoea. 


of  Waifin.  %j\ 

do  not  rear  fo  many  as  are  needed.  Indeed,  from  feme  miC* 
taken  notions,  they  feldom  keep  what  they  rear,  till  they  are 
£t  for  the  purpofes  of  labour.  When  about  a  year  old,  they 
are  fold,  and  carried  into  the  Orkneys ;  from  whence  they  are 
brought  back,  in  their  prime,  and  fold  again  at  a  very  high 
rate.  Strathuaver,  too,  furnifhes  a  good  many  horfes  anA 
mares  for  the  accommodation  of  this  quarter. 

£i^^._The  few  flieep  they  may  have  to  difpofe  of,  are 
confumed,  either  in  the  towns  of  Wick  and  Thurfo,  or  in  the 
families  around.  Indeed,  that  ufeful  animal  does  not  profpex 
here  fo  well  as  could  be  wiihed.  The  moors,  moiles,  and 
commons  are,  it  is  thought,  too  wet  for  them.  But,  befides 
this  natural  difadvantage,  they  are  not  fo  well  taken  care  of, 
as  they  ought  and  deferve  to  be.  The  pafture  is  not  only 
poor,  but  greatly  overftocked :  and  they  are,  all  the  year 
round,  confined,  during  the  night  time,  in  very  low  clofe  huts. 
The  winter  feafon,  too,  is  changeable,  boifterous,  and  rainy. 
Thus  ezpofed,  upon  bare  open  fields,  without  any  thing  na<* 
tural  or  artificial  to  ihelter  them,  numbers  often  die,  during 
the  courfe  of  winter  and  fpring,  of  what  are  here  called  the 
rott,  pock,  and  fcab. 

Jl/am^^vr^/.— *The  only  thing,  befides  corn  and  cattle, 
which  brings  any  money  amongft  us,  is  a  little  fpinning,  for 
the  manufadurers  in  feme  of  the  more  fouthem  counties. 
This,  by  the  by,  is  but  a  mere  trifle.  Our  women,  perhaps, 
are  more  employed  in  the  field,  for  at  lead  8  months  in  the 
year,  than  in  mod  other  places  of  the  kingdom.  This  affords 
the  generality  of  them  but  little  time  for  making  any  thing 
confiderable  by  that  branch  of  bufinefs.  Almoft  every  family, 
too,  fows  what  linfeed  they  think  will  anfwer  the  purpofes 
of  their  own  wearing.    The  produce  thereof|  and  the  fmall 

parcel 


4  yl  Siatiflical  Account 

ptreel  of  wool  which  their  few  (beep  yields,  exhaufls  the 
greater  part  of  the  time  thej  can  fpare,  from  the  labour  of 
their  little  farms.  No  fmall  lofs  is  faftained  bj  the  coantrj 
at  large,  that  more  cloth,  efpeciallj  woollen,  is  not  made 
amongft  them. 

MiWflfir,  Wr.— This  comer  is  capableof  very  great  iraprove- 
xnent.  Befides  the  natural  quality  of  the  foil  already  under 
tiliagCi  there  ate  vaft  trads  of  ground  fit  to  yield  crops  of  every 
kind,  at  liltle  or  no  espenee.  It  requires  only  to  be  plowed 
ftp  and  reduced.  In  different  places,*  coniiderable  quantities 
of  marie  have  been  found ;  and  in  fome,  lime-ftone,  of  a  very 
excellent  quality,  though  difiicttlt  to  work.  In  general,  the 
country  abounds  with  it. 

Prejudicial  Cnfioms,^Jfrom  our  remote  iituation,  and  little 
intcrcourfe  with  other  countries,  we  have  hitherto  been  neglcff- 
ed,  if  not  defpifed.  Of  late,  flrangers  have  begun  to  creep  in 
amongft  us  ;  And  a  litde  time  will  convince,  both  ftrang^rs 
and  natives,  that  our  remote  fituatton  is  by  no  means  fo  un- 
friendly, cither  to  happinefs  or  ioJtereft,  as  has  too  ^generally 
been  believed.  No  douht  there  arc  local  praSices,  and  tecaf 
prejudices  arooogft  us,  which  require  to  be  laid  afide,  before 
great  improvement  can  take  place,  or  flrangers  refide  with 
teid  comfort  to  themfelves.  From  time  immemorial,  it  had 
been  the  pradice  here,  for  cattle  of  aU  kinds  to  travel  and  feed 
jnromifcuoufly,  without  diftindlion  of  property,  from  the  day 
the  laft  iheaf  was  put  into  the  farm-yard,  till  the  concloiioit 
of  the  bear  feed,  iii  the  end  of  May,  or  beginning  of  June** 
The  prejudice  this  praftice  is  of,  to  land  in  general,  but  to 
arable  land  in  particular,  is  now  fcen  by  many,  and  begins  to  be 
aboliihed.  Few  men  will  obfltnately  perfift  in  prejudices  or 
eufloma,  whoa  they  are  jodicioufly  ezpoled,  and  ihewn  to  h^ 

contraxy 


contrary  to  their  inCercft.  Still,  however,  the  geoerBlicj  are 
•gaiiift  winter  herding*  And  it  is  mmtter  of  great  regret  to 
every  friend  of  improvement  in  agriculture,  that  the  laws  re. 
fpeaing  that  praftioe  are  not  oaiverlally  enforced  and  obfeiv^ 
ed.  The  aOive  enterprifing  fanner  can  never  aVail  himfelf, 
of  all  the  advanuges  to  be  derived  from  his  poflelSoa,  unlela 
he  be  at  liberty  to  uft  and  lay  it  out  as  he  pleafes.  He  can 
never  benefit  himfelf,  either  by  fallow  or  green  crops,  fb  long 
as  cattle  of  every  kind,  his  neighbours  as  well  as  his  own, 
are  at  freedom,  for  8  months,  nearly,  out  of  la,  to  Uwerfe 
his  fields,  day  and  night,  wet  and  dry.  Such  a  coAom  may, 
and,  no  doubt  does,  profit  die  Jt^ggurA.  His  cattle  are  half 
maintained  almoft  at  the  expenoe  of  his  neighbours,  Bvt 
men  of  this  dcfcription  ought  not  to  be  fupported,  at  the  ez« 
pence  of  the  walling,  induftrioos  farmer*  His  fpirited  endea- 
vours to  provide  for  himfelf,  and  ferve  the  pnblic,  ought 
not  to  be  rendered  abortive,  merely  to  gratKy  the  indolence 
of  the  floven ;  who,  rather  than  «xert  himfelf  in  conftant  a£b 
of  indufiry,  is  contented  to  live  in  a  hovel,  to  be  dothcd  w 
rsgs,  and  to  feed  upon  bread  and  water. 

Jioais^  (^^•— -Another  ciicomfiance,  which  gready  retarda 
the  improvement  of  this  place,  is  the  want  of  good  roads. 
Some  attention,  indeed,  has  been  paid  to  this  firft  and  moft  eflen- 
tial  ftep  towards  improvement.  Our  roads,  in  general,  have 
been  lined  out,  and  fbmething  done  upon  them,  rduftantly, 
by  the  ftatut^  labour  of  the  people.  By  thefe  means*  we  have 
a  more  plain  and  direA  tniA,  during  the  dry  feafon  of  the 
year,  to  the  ports  of  Wick  and  Thutfo,  for  travellers,  as  well 
as  riders  and  carts :  But  from  this  neglefi,  and  the  infufficient 
manner  in  which  they  are  executed,  they  become  £0  foft  after 
rain,  and  are  fo  Uown  by  die  frofl,  tkat  in  many  ^aoes,  dauw 
ing  winter  and  fpring,  the  beft  horfes-are  not  fit  to  drag  a  cart 

Vot.  XI.  Mm  with 


C74  Statjflical  Account 

with  fafctj.  Tiiis  circumHanoe  Tenders  the  carriage  of  grain^ 
woodt  and  indeed  every  otfa^r  article,  to  and  frooa  port  ex<« 
trenielj  difficult  ^nd  tedious.  From  the  oarrowneb  of  theiv 
farms,  they  can  keep  only  horles  of  a  very  fmall  fize  ;  which* 
with  the  badnefs  of  their  roads*  obliges  ^«n  to  make  feveral 
joumies,  where  one  might  otherwife  ferve.  Every  thing,  by 
tbefe  means,  muft  be  carried  on  horfe*back,  and  that,  too,  in 
very  fmall  quantities. 

CbaraSer  Ijf .-.^Fond  of  drefs,  rather  to  escefs,  too  much 
of  their  eamingSi  particularly  of  the  younger  part  of  both 
fexes,  goes  to  gratify  their  fancy  in  thatrefpeft  ;  and  it  is  not 
always  with  the  heft  or  mod  fubftantial  articles  of  any  kind, 
that  thpy  are  fiipplied.  Being  naturally  of  a  fprightly  turn, 
what  appears  the  rood  Ihowy  gains  their  choice;  and,  while 
it  pleafes  for  a  little,  itsfervioe  is  foon  at  an  end.  This  lively 
turn,  is,  perhaps,  oi|e  reafon  why  our  young  men, 'in  general, 
ihow  fuch  a  relilh  for  a  military  life.  No  fooner  does  a  recruit., 
ing  party  make  their  appearance,  than  numbers,  even  before 
they  are  fit  to  carry  arms,  are  willing  to  inliil.  Wages,  it 
muft  be  allowed,  do  not  bear  a  proportion  with  what  is  given 
in  more  fouthem  counties  ;  but  thefe,  like  every  other  thing, 
are  dsiily  increafing*.    Sripp^ngs  now  get  n^re  than  39s.  per 

half 


*  About  15  'or  so  yean  ago,  a  man  fervant,  qualified  for  all  the  por« 
pofet  of  ivmiDg,  did  not  look  for  more  than  z8t.  or  10s  per  half  year,  tritk 
3  bolb  fuMifiepce,  h«lf  oat,  half  hear  meal ;  the  fbnner  at  9i  fiones  per  hoU, 
the  latter  at  9  done.  Women,  qualified  for  tending  cattle  throughout  the  win- 
ter, driving  the  plough,  and  filling  the  dung  cart  in  fpring,  had  only  ahout 
8s.  Sterling,  with  juft  half  the  fubfifience  allowed  the  man.  Why  fo  little 
fnbfiften^e  was  and  fUll  is  allowed  to  women,  no  good  reafon  can  be  affigned. 
£ftablilhed  cnftoma  cannot  always  be  accoonted  for,  nor  are  they  eafily  or  fad* 
flenly  •▼erturned.  Thia  artide  of  wages,  however,  ha*  of  late  ri£^,  and  ftil) 
contipaes  to  iDcreafe* 


of  Wottiri.  275 

ikulf  year,  and  th«  better  qualified  nearer  to  4^^.,  with  the  old 
ullowance  for  fubfiilence;  and  the  women  from  128.  to  15s. 
IS'cverthelefs,  numbers  of  both  fexes  annually  leave  the  place, 
in  hopes  of  higher  wages,  and  in  the  belief  that  better  living 
is  to  be  had  dfewbere,  than  what  they  are  accuftomed  to  at 
borne. 


Mma  NUMBER 


2j6  Statifiical  Account 

NUMBER    XX. 

PARISH    OF  KILCHOMA'N. 

{County  and  Synod  of  ArgyU^PriJbytery  of  ISmtyreJ) 

By  thi  Riv.  Mr*  John  M^Liesh,  Minifier. 


Ifamif  Situation,  and  Extent. 

TRADITION  fays,  that  Chomanus  was  fent  from  the 
mooaftcry  of  IcolumiiU^  bj  St.  Columbus,  to  plant  the 
gofpd  in  Iflajy  and  beiog  buried  in  this  placet  gave  name  to 
the  pariih  of  Kexl^chomak.  It  is  fituated  in  the  ifland  of 
of  Iflay,  is  20  mUes  long,  and  6  broad,  and  is  of  a  peninfa- 
hx  forms  ^  Lochgrunart  and  Zocbindab^  two  amcis  of  the 
fee,  cut  deep  into  the  country. 

Coq/l,  Harbour^f  and  ^irr/ar#.-— The  ihore^  to  the  W*,  is 
rough  and  bold,  affording  no  anchoring  ground  ;  but  Lochia- 
dale,  to  the  E.,  Is  a  fair  fpacions  harboitr,  with  a  fine  quay 
at  the  viUage  of  Bowmore;  and  very  much  frequented,  as  the 
fca,  to  the  W.  of  Iflay,  in  fiormy  wefither,  is  very  rough, 

rifii^ 


if  KUcbomafiw  2  77 

nfhig  licenily  meuniain  high.    A  ridge  of  moor  laiklsi  fa- 
mous for  grazingi  runs  through  the  pariflx. 

SoUf  FroiMKif  Exports^  \3c. — ^The  ground  all  sronad  the 
coaft  is  araUe,  producing  corn  and  barky,  flax  and  potatoes. 
The  foil  is  of  dtSereot  qualities ;  mofs,  clay,  loam,  and  (and  ; 
but  no  other  crops  are  raifed,  owing  to  the  open  ilate  of  the 
country.  SheH,  fand,  and  fea-weed  are  made  ufe  of  for  ma^ 
Dure,  as  there  is  no  lime-ftone  in  the  parifli.  Thefe  are  found 
to  give  good  crops,  and  to  mend  the  grafs :  When  mixed 
with  mofs,  they  proY«  an  exeeUent  compoft.  Large  fields  of 
potatoes  are  annnaHy  raifed  by  it,  which  is  very  fertuiiate 
for  the  poorer  fort  of  people,  who  can  get  no  other  manure, 
and  who  live  upon  potatoes  and  fiih  for  three  fourths*  of  the 
jear.  The  rearing  barley  and  flax  is  much  praftifed  by  the 
common  tenantry,  wlio  by  thefe  make  up  the  greater  part  of 
their  rent,  yam  being  one  of  our  principal  exports.  The 
{tfodttce  of  die  country^  in -.good  ieafoos,  is  fofficicat  to  fup- 
port  its  iahabitaMtt  ;  but,  ia  bad  feafiMiSy  they  have  been  ob- 
liged to  import  a  good  deal  of  meal, 

Cubiwaifm,  He. — Of  late,  the  farmers  have  got  into  the 
way  of  fowing  early  oats,  which  gives  them  an  earlier  har- 
▼eft  i  for  our  cropa  have  been  ofiteo  much  hurt  by  the  winds 
and  rains,  that  fet  ia  from  the  W.  early  in  aucnmo,  Seed». 
time  coBUttnces  about  die  a  ad  of  March  ;  and  by  the  middle 
of  OBbBbct  all  the  crop  is  generally  got  in.  The  broad 
Scotch  plou^  with  4  horfes,  is  moil  generally  ia  ufe.  There 
are  ieveral  tacUmen  in  the  parifli,  who  employ  cottagers  to 
work  their  &rms,  and  tend  their  dairy.  This  mod  be  the 
cafe  with  gentlemen  who  have  large  farms,  as  it  would  be 
impoffible  to  take  fervants  into  their  boufes  to  carry  on  all 
their  bnfiueCs  \  and  as  there  may  be  feme  of  them,  whofe 

circumftances 


\ 


478  Statiftiad  Account 

drcmnftaiioes  eoaUe  them  to  be  tteve  taklag  fuch  dradg^ry 
upon  tbemfelves. 

CHimUi  ani  Dtfitafts.-^Xytit  climate  is  the  fame  with  thac 
of  other  maritime  places.  If  we  have  our  wefterly  wiods  aad 
ndnst  we  are  free  of  the  frofts  and  (bows  of  the  eaftj^  fiiow 
aerer  oontiauing  above  a  daj  or  two  with  us*  An  inftance 
of  the  wholelbmeoefii  of  that  cKmate,  maj  be  Seen  ia  the 
healthfulneb  of  oar  people,  who  are  feldom  or  never  vifited 
widi  any  epidemical  diftemper,  and  generally  live  to  a  good 
age.  The  fmall  pox,  which  ufed  to  make  a  vaft  devaftadoo, 
is  now  eafily  got  over  by  inoculation  y  one  futgeon  having, 
laft  feafon^  performed  that  operaUon  upon  more  than  800 
children^  very  few  of  whom  died.  Some  people  advanced  in 
years  were  alio  inoculated,  with  good  eSefts.  The  poor 
were  inoculated  gratis,  and  the  operator  enjoys  their  blei&ng« 

WiU  Ammais**^Anj  oi^e,  thae  has  a  right  to  Keep  a  gna 
and  dog,  may  find  plenty  of  game  here ;  foeh  as  partridges, 
woodcocks,  Uackcocks,  moorfowl,  plovers,  wild  geefe  anS 
ducks,  and  wild  pigeons ;  alfo  otters,  rabbits,  and  hares,  fea 
and  land  bamicles. 

Blaei  Ca^Z/f.^— The  rearing  of  cattle  is  a  principal  ob^ 
jtSt  with  the  gentlemen  of  Iflay,  who  have  the  merit  of 
having  brought  the  Iflay  catde  to  vie  with  the  beft  of  their 
neighbours  at  market,  and  to  be  much  run  upon.  The  farm* 
ing  bniinefs  may  be  purfued  to  advanuge  in  Iflay ;  bat  black 
cattle  have  been  its  greateft  riches  of  late  years.  There  are 
about  800  of  thefe  annually  fold  out  of  this  parifli,  at  the 
avarage  price  of  3!.  15s.;  they  arc  carried  by  drovers  to  Dam* 
barton  and  Falkirk,  and  even  to  England,  occaiionally* 

Horfesz. 


of  Kilcboman.  279 

Horfis.^^^  are  faid  to  keep  too  many  horfes,  which  is  a 
gainft  the  fyflem  of  black  cattle :  Tet  thefc  borfes  bring  a  good 
deal  of  money  into  the  conntrj,  the  Irifli  being  Tcrj  fond  of 
them,  as  they  arc  neat  lively  creatures,  and  fit  for  the  faddle, 
Onr  manner  of  hufbandry  requires  alfo  a  good  many  horfes,  4 
i'^ng  yoked  in  each  plough  ;  and  peats,  com,  and  fulzie  car- 
ried home  on  horfeback.  As  the  country  is  champaign,  anj 
the  roads  good,  an  Iflayroan  will  fcarce  flir  from  home  with« 
out  his  pad. 

Sheep. — It  is  much  to  be  wiihed,  we  had  got  more  into  the 
rearing  of  (heep  than  we  have,  as  the  country  would  anfwer 
them  well ;  and  the  higher  lands  would  be  excellent  flieep 
walks,  being  green  to  the  top,  and  there  being  no  foxes  or  other 
vermin  to  deflroy  them.  The  tenantry  content  themfelves, 
bowever,  with  rearing  no  more  than  ferves  their  own  families: 
Hence  mutton  and  wool  fell  high. 

Popttlaiiant^^'By  a  late  enumeration,  the  number  of  inha«. 
bitants  in  this  parifli  amounts  to  -  *        -         2300 

The  population  in  1755  is  uncertain.  Dr.  WebAer  fays^ 
that  the  ifland  of  Iflay  contamed  then  only  the  two  parifiies 
of  Killar ow  and  Kildalton ;  under  which,  it  is  probable,  that 
Kilmenie  and  Kilchoman  were  included.  We  are  enabled, 
however,  to  ftate  the  exaft  increafe  of  population  in  the 
whole  ifland;  as  the  total  number  of  people  in  Iflay,  at 
prefent,  amounts  to  above        -  ,  -         -         9500 

From  which  dedufting  the  return,  in 

1755,  from  Killarow,  -  -  1762  "> 

/Uid  that  from  Kildalton,  -         -         3583  j    '    ^344 

The  total  increafe  in  the  ifland  is        <-        4x56 

The 


zSo  Statj/iical  Account 


The  following  Is  an 

abflrad  of  birt^M  aoc)  nanruiges*  far 

8  jears  paft : 

Y«rt. 

Bkthi. 

Mtfriagai, 

1784 

3» 

16 

X785 

54 

36 

X7S6 

JO 

I7«7 

54 

X7M 

5< 

1789 

5« 

1790 

^y  . 

1791 

«4 

Total, 

-    445 

X4X 

ATcrage,     » 

•    sA 

17f 

£f7i^^ff»tfii#x,&c..«~The  inhabitants  are  all  employed  in  d» 
farming  and  gtvfing  liact  there  being  no  mannfa&oty  cftablilh- 
cd  in  the  country  \  but  they  are  well  fnpplied  with  tnuief- 
xnen,  in  the  common  and  moft  neceiSTary  arts*  who  ooake  a 
good  livelihood  of  it.  Travelling  merchants  gather  our  yarn, 
and  bring  home  our  flsx-feed,  grocery  goods,  and  rather  too 
many  Jmeries.  But  our  people  like  to  appear  to  advantage. 
There  are  about  80  hogibeads  of  laz-feed  annually  imported 
into  the  pariih ;  the  cultivatioi^  of  which,  and  mannfaAuring 
the  produce,  conilitnte  the  princi|pal  bufineis  in  the  ifland.  The 
people  are  much  more  given  to  the  making  of  linen,  tfaaii 
woollen  cloth,  this  being  a  flaxen  country.  Many  of  the  gen* 
teeler  families  keep  weavers  employed  for  themfelves,  all  tho 
year  through.  The  Highland  drefs  has  not  made  fnch  rapid 
progrefs  among  us,  as  with  our  neighbours  to  the  N.  We 
are  more  clad  in  the  long  coat,  hat,  and  breecbeSi  than  the  in« 
habitants  of  any  of  the  Hebrides.  Befides  the  fcarcity  of 
%vocl,  there  is  anotheri  and  indeed  a  veiy  great  diiadvantage, 

that 


*  No  regukr  regifter  of  buriils  has  been  kept,  on  account  of  the  great  1 
ber  of  burial  placet  in  the  parifli.  On .  occafiont  of  baptifinii  marriagea,  and 
burials,  the  ezpcnct  incurred  border*  on  eatraTagancCi  through  a  iMj  com<» 
pliance  with  the  old  faihion. 


of  kUcbiyman.  48t 

4:b«t  Ifl«7  lies  under,  hj  a  fcarcitj  ef  wood;  timber. being 
brought  from  the  northern  lakes,  at  a  very  high  price,  and 
dittcttlc  to  obtain  evea  for  it,  owing  to  the  great  demand  for 
charcoal;  Hence  implements  for  huibandrj,  houre-buildingi 
ftnd  carpenterj  bufinefs,  come  to  be  very  espenfire. 

Fififeriis^  Fuil^  Scc«-*Bat  if  the  fea  has  bared  ottr  coun- 
try of  wood,  it  has  filled  its  coafts  with  fifli.  Lochindale 
affords  all  kinds  of  fea  fiih,  and  Portnah^en,  a  fifliing  village^ 
in  the  Xioiis  of  Iflay,  is  famous  for  its  cod  fifliing  :  And  for 
tb^r  encourageanent,  Mr;  Cam^ell  of  Shaw&eld  has  gives 
them  fome  boats,  lands,  and  timber  for  houfes.  Another  very 
great  advantage,  v^e  have,  is,  that  no  country  is  better  fupplied 
with  fire  and  watbr.  Atmoft  every  farm  has  peatmofs  within 
itfelf,  of  ad  excellent  kind,  affording  charcoal  for  the  fmith,  as  ' 
we  have  no  coals.  Theft  peats,  with  the  fifli  oil  they  bural 
in  lamps,  make  tbe  habitation  of  the  meaneft  cottager  warm 
and  cheery.  As  to  qiir  waters,  thef e  txt  alembics  enough  to 
inake  them  light  and  wholefome.  They  are  remarkably  good 
taut  bleaching,  which  the  ctearnefs  of  eur  linens  can  ihow ; 
•fid  it  is  probable  the  bleaching  bufinefa  might  be  profecnted 
Widi  gffcot  advantage  in  Iflay. 

Laie  and  Ifland.'^^TYktrt  are  no  waters  in  tbe  pafifli  that 
Beferve  tbe  name  of  rivers.  There  is  one  lake,  which  covers 
abotit  loo  acres  of  land,  and  is  well  fupplied  with  fine  trouts. 
Tbere  are  feveral  latge  oak  trees  at  thfi  bottom  of  it,  wbidn 
ihews  tbe  country  was  once  under  woo4«  In  thia  lake,  there 
is  a  finall  ifland,  fortified  very  ftrong.  Its  baftions  are  all 
entire.  To  this  fort,  it  is  faid,  M'Dokald  of  Islay  betook 
bimfelf  in  his  difEculties*.  Now  the  owls  of  the  defert  nefilf 
in  it. 

VoL.X|.  Nil  Roods 

t  Tbe  battle  fought  between  tbe  M'X>0Dald«  and  the  M'Leani,  ia  1588,  u 

tbe 


ttSi  Statifiical  Account 

Roads  and  Bridges — None  of  the  Wefiern  Ifles  ean  boafl 
of  fuch  good  roads  and  bridges  u  Iflay.  The  iohaUtants  are 
every  year  called  out  to  work  upon  them  }  and  aoj  gentleinan 
naj  drive  for  30  miles  thr6iigh  the  ifle  in  his  carriage*  To 
complete  the  line,  our  communication  with  the  main  (bora 
is  kept  up  bj  a  packet,  which  goes  and  returns  regularly 
every  week,  with  the  mail,  paffcnger^  and  goods  on  board. 
This  packet  baa  40L  of  lalary  from  the  country,  and  joh 
from  government.  The  expence  of  government  ia  more  than 
defrayed  by  the  poft-office  here,  as  fisafariog  people,  along 
with  thofe  in  the  country,  fend  a  great  many  letters  through 
that  channel.    . 

Prcprutdr  and  Rent. — ^Mr.  Camfbell  of  Shawfield  is 
proprietor  of  the  whole  ifland,  and  poffefles  one  of  the  beft  and 
noft  coropafi  eftates,  enjoyed  by  any  commoner  in  Britain. 
On  the  forfeiture  of  the  M'Donalde,'  Illay,  Jura,  and  the  famda 
of  Muckaim,  were  made  over  to  Campbell  of  Calder,  who 
was  then  a  favourite  at  court,  on  condition  of  his  paying 
500I.  yearly  of  a  feu*duty  out  of  Iflay,  which  is  the  reafon 
of  the  duty  being,  fo  high  }  and  Calder  fold  all  thafe  lands 
again  to  Shawfield,  for  X2,oool. ;  which,  if  the  rage  for  renU 
ing  land  continues,  will,  by  and  by,  be  the  income  from  it. 

Church. 


die  moft  remarkaBle  CT«t  of  this  diftriA.  M'Lean,  being  married  to  NPDoif. 
mkl's  daughter,  was  to  hare  part  of  Iflaj  as  her  portion ;  hot  the  treaty  not  bck 
ing  implemented,  he  came  from  MuU  with  1400  of  his  clan,  to  force  IkCDooald 
to  a  compliance.  M*Dooald,  with  looo  of  hit  tribe^  gave  him  battle,  and  def- 
troycd  the  flower  of  his  army.  M'Lcan  himfclf  was  killed  with  an  arrow,  and 
lies  interred  in  the  kirk  of  Kilchoman.  A  favage  courtfliip  indeed  !  bot  (uch 
were  the  times !  It  is  not  certain  how  long  the  M'Donalds  maintained  thei^ 
dominion  in  Iflay,  and  other  places^  after  that  mxx ;  but  fnrc  it  if^thak|  by  theiff 
vcftlcfsdilpoiltion,  they  at  lafl  forfeited  them. 


tf  Kilcboman.  283 

fjtvr^i.— .The  charch*  now  made  ufe  of,  ftands  in  the 

«iiddle  of  the  parifli.     The  minifter  goes  occafionally  to  the 

Hurts  of  it,  and  preaches  for  more  than  one  half  of  the  year, 

in  both  languages ;  a  dtitj  which  none  but  the  clergy  in  the 

Highlands  have  to  go  through.     He  has  50I.  of  ftipend,  a 

glebe,  and  manfe-monej,  with  5].  for  communion  elements  \ 

"has  been  fettled  xo  years  in  the  parifli,  and  is  married  to  his 

predccefibr's  widow,*  by  which  her  children  drew  aool.  out  of 

tbe  widow's  fund.   The  King  is  patron  of  all  Iflav,  and  draws 

500L  yearly  feu^duty  out  of  it.     All  the  inhabitants  belong 

U>  the  Eftablilked  Church.     There  are  4  parifhes,  but  only  3 

jnimfiera  in  the  iffland,  notwithftanding  the  great  number  of 

the  inhabitauts. 

S«&ooZr.— .The  parochial  fchool  is  taught  in  the  church. 
There  axe  at  prefent  about  40  fcholars  attending  it.  The 
mmfler  has  100  merks  of  yearly  falary,  with  dues  from 
chriftenings  and  marriages.  There  are  feveral  other  fchools  in 
different  parts  of  the  parifli ;  the  mafters  of  which  are  main- 
tained and  paid  by  the  contribotions  of  individuals.  An  in- 
doftrions  good  fchoolmafter  is  a  moft  valuable  member  of  fo- 
ciety,  and  much  needed  in  this  parifli,  to  affiil  in  guarding  the 
youth  from  the  errors  of  Popery,  as  we  are  juft  in  the  very 
neighbourhood  of  Ireland.  A  fourth  minifler  is  alfo  much 
to  be  wiflied  for  in  the  ifland  ;  as,  upon  fome  occafions,  3 
elergymen  have  to  difpenfe  the  facrament  to  no  fewer  than 
1100  communicants. 

N  n  a  Improvements. 


*  This  pariih  it  obliged  to  the  devotion,  or  rather  to  the  foperftition,  of  iu 
iormer  innabitanu,  for  the  many  vefiiget  of  chapels,  or  placet  of  worihip,  that 
Are  to  b«  feen  in  it ;  thefe  being  no  Icfs  than  6  in  number,  whofe  walls,  croflcf, 
and  fonts  are  pretty  entire.  Bot  bow  could  it  be  othcrwife,  whh  a  place  that 
is  within  a  few  leagues  of  the  monaftery  of  the  lamout  Ion  a,  which  difper&d 
in  otiEoD wici  all  over  Britain  I 


a  84  Statjfiical  Account 

ImprovBmffUs. — ^Onie  other  circttmftftnce  that  tfderres  to  hta 
noticed*  in  the  hiftoiy  of  liaj,  is  the  attedfioii  that  has  of  late, 
been  effefied  in  the  polica  of  it.    Changes  and  ioiproveiDenCs^ 
la  all  countries,  take  their  rife  from  the  fpirited  exeftioiu  of 
particular  indiTidualsi  who  feem  bom  for  the  purpofe  of  rcmf- 
ing  the  multitude   from  a  ftate  pf  ignoraaioe  and  torpor« 
Within  thele  doxen  of  years,  the  prefent  proprietor  has  flhore 
than  doubled  his  rents  ;  jet  the  tenantiy.  as  n^ell  as  himfelf^ 
ure  better  off  than  ever.     They  have  giftti  trim,  as  it  were, 
an  addition  to  his  eftate,  hj  re&uing  many  acres,  of  moor  and 
mofs,  from  a  ftate  of  nature,  and  briagtng  them  to  yield 
good  crops  of  corn  and  grab.    On  the  other  handi  the  pro>A 
prietor  has  given  the  tenants  fuch  advantageous  leafes,  that 
thej  have  greatlj  bettered  their  circumllances,  as  well  as  in« 
creafed  their  nombers,  and  are  enabled  to  live  mueb  more 
comfortably  than  formerly.     And  indeed. they  ape  fe  fenfible 
of  the  advantages  they  enjoy,  and  are  in  general  fo  contented 
with  their  fituation,  that  vtrj  few  have  emigrated  from  the 
ifland :  And  the  farms  of  thofe  who  have^  have  never  con«^ 
tinned  long  unpoiTeffed.     When  tenants  are  emaaeipated  from 
the  avarice  of  monopoltfers,  they  feem  to  breathe  a  purer  air, 
and  improyepents  go  on  rapidly »  for  nothing  has  tended  more 
to  excite  the  fpirit  of  emigration,  than  the  Drason  of  Monopcrfy, 
^hich  leads  the  avaricious  to  add  land  t*  laad,  nsld  £irm  to 
farm.   The  writer  of  this  article,  cannat  approve  of  the  maxim^ 
V  That  thf  men  rents  you  lay  pn,  the  tenants  will  wori  tbt 
hetter.^^    This,  like  the  Egyptian  bondage,  is  exafting  bricks 
without  firavv,  and  tends  to  check,  rather  than  incite,  the  fpirit 
of  induilry.     But  if  the  moderation  and  lenity,  that  have 
hitherto  been  obferved  in  Iflay,  continue  to  be  adhered  to,  we 
may  vetiture  to  proiftife,  that  the  people  will  rather  flay  at 
home,  to  improve  the  lands  of  their  native  ifland,  than  go 
abroad  to  cultivate  the  wilds  of  America.     Ameai 

^raSer. 


of  KilcbtmMf  %%f^ 

CharaSer,  and  Afanners.^^'So  objeftlon  can  be  made  againft 
Hhcir  natural  parts  and  abilities^  which  are  fubtle  and  ingenious. 
Th«7  are  fond  of  tbdir  own  country,  and  are  not  much  addid- 
cd  to  enlifting  in  the  army  or  navy.  They  marry  young,  and 
are  greatly  conneAed  by  intermarriages,  which  mud  always 
be  the  .cafe  with  infolar  fuuations  ;  and  yet  they  ate  very  kind 
to  all  ftrangers,  who  come  to  refide  among  them,  or  vifit  them. 
They  are  in  general  as  contented  with  their  fitQation  as  mod 
people,  as  they  have  the  comforts  and  conveniences  of  life  in  a 
reafonable  degree.  The  Gaelic  is  the  general  language  of  the 
commMi.  people ;  yet  Engliih  is  pretty  well  underffood,  and 
Uoght  in  all  our  fchoolsr  The  dance  and  the  fong,  with 
ihinty  and  putting  the  (lone,  are  their  chief  amufements. 
Numbers  of  them  play  well  on  the  violin  and  bagpipe.  They 
have  a  natural  eafe  and  gracefulnefs  of  motion  in  'the  dance, 
which  is  peculiar  to  themfelves.  The  gentlemen,  once  a  year, 
treat  the  ladies  with  a  ball,  where  cheerfulneis  and  propriety 
of  condud,  always  prefide ;  and  more  elegance  of  mannei:| 
are  to  be  feen,  than  could  well  be  expefied  in  lb  remotif  a 
fituj^tion. 


NUM^ 


I 


§■85  Sicuiftkal  Account 

NUMBER.    XXI. 

PARISH   OF    KILDALTON. 

(^Qoutaj  and  Synod  of  ArgylU-TnJbyttry  t^  ^ntyn.) 

^y  the  Rev.  Mr.  Argbuals  Robertsoh,  MUnfiir. 


Namff  Situation^  and  Extent. 

THE  name  of  this  parifb  is  probabl/  derived  from  fomo 
eminent  perfon  who  had  been  the  firft  that  was  buried 
here.  It  is  fituated  on  the  S.  E.  end  of  the  ifland  of  Iflajp 
«nd  extends  along  the  fca  fliore,  from  the  Motile  of  Keann-outb^ 
to  M^Carture^s  Head^  near  the  entrj  of  the  Sound  of  Iflay* 
from  the  £•  It  is  above  15  miles  in  length,  and  about  6  iii 
breadth. 

SoUj  Cultivation^  Roadsf  &€.— There  is  great  variety  in  tli« 
foil  over  all  the  pariih ;  for,  in  the  fame  farm,  you  will  find  a 
very  poor,  light,  fandj  foil,  and  fome  verj  good  ground, 
that  would  produce  a  rich  crop,  if  it  had  tillage  and  manure. 
There  is  fome  clay  ground,  and  a  great  quantity  of  mofs. 
But  the  great  lofs,  in  this  country,  is,  that  the  fmall  tenant 
are  almoft  every  year  plowing  down  all  their  arable  ground; 
and  they  feldom  manure  any  ground|  except  for  potatoes  and 
a  barleys 


ff  Kildalton.  C87 

.torley  \  b  tbat  tbey  cannot  have  a  good  crop  of  oats.  Tbm 
gentlemen  farmers,  ^g^io^  employ  aknoft  their  whole  time  in 
zearing  good  black  cattle,  and  lay  out  their  fine  araUe  ground 
in  feeding  them ;  in  confeqaence  of  which,  the  cultivation  o£ 
grain  is  very  little  attended  to.  All  the  farmers  here  plow 
with  4  faorfes^^exeeptiBg  a  very  few,  who,  having  light  ploughs,' 
employ  only  a.  The  reft  make  ufe  of  heavy  clumfy  ploughs^ 
of  their  own  manufadure.  They  carry  out  their  manure  ia 
fmall  creek  on  horfebaek,  and  they  bring  home  their  peats  in 
the  fame  manner ;  whereby  much  time  is*  fpent  in  doing  vety 
little  work.  This  is  partly  owing  to  the  want  of  good  public 
roads  ;  fot  the  inhabitants  only  work  at  them  a  days  in  tho 
year,  and  the  ftatute  labour  is  never  commutedi  They  do 
little  or  nothing  for  the  reparation  of  private  roads*  It  is 
much  to  be  wiflied,  that  the  tenants  knew  the  vsdue  of  good 
roads,  and  that  they  would  employ  carts  to  manure  the 
ground,  as  they  do  in  the  next  parilh,.  where  they  have  a 
good  public  road,  which  is  upheld  at  a  fmall  expence  to  titt 
tenants.  The  people  of  Killarow  are  encouraged  to  improve 
m  little  in  agriculture,  by  the  example  of  Mr.  Campbell  of 
Shawfield,  who  is  one  of  the  beft  farmers  in  the  weft  of  Soot«« 
land :  And  perhaps  his  Iflay  eftate  is  capable  of  as  much  iokm 
provement  as  any  in  the  kingdom* 

lnclofire^,^^Thete  is  only  a  very  fmall  part  of  this  pariih 
indofed  ;  and  the  large  parks,  that  the  principal  tenants  have 
made,  are  employed  for  feeding  their  young  black  cattle  in 
winter.  Thefe  parks  are  very  feldom,  if  ever,  plowed ;  and 
in  barveft  no  beaft  is  fed  in  them,  as  they  are  kept  for  winter 
grals.  The  parifli  might  eafily  be  inclofed,  for  we  abound  in 
ftones  ;  and  the  want  of  inclofures  is  feverely  felt  in  this  pa« 
ri(b,  where  we  are  fo  much  expofed  to  every  wind  that  Uows, 

and 


%ti  ISiati/iUal  Accbuni 

ttod  vlicre  we  lofe  fo  much  griiti  in  autumn  bj  (hakitig  witfcl^V 
But  we  want  ifumej  and  the  fpirit  for  agriculture ,  for  if  wc 
had  a  real  defirc  of  improviag  our  lands^  we  might  live  com* 
fortablfi  and  be  of  great  ufe  to  focietj. 

Pro(/ir^^.«— The  tenants  fow  yearly  about  18  hogfheads  of 
flax'feed ;  but  the  quantity  of  oatSy  barley  and  poUtoes,  that 
mre  fown  here,  cannot  be  knowo^  beeaufe  the  farmers  feldom 
neafure  any  thing  that  they  fow.  The  number  of  ploagfas 
employed  here,  is  more  or  lefs,  according  to  the  ieafbn.  Whes 
we  have  a  great  quantity  of  rain  in  fpring»  which  is  often  the 
cafe,  we  are  obliged  10  employ  mc^e  ploughs,  in  order  to 
finilb  the  work  of  the  field  early ;  for  a  late  hanreft  is  very 
dangerous  in  this  ifland,  where  we  have  fuch  a  deluge  of  rain 
in  the  end  of  autumn. 

Imporis  and  Exports. — ^This  parifli  imports  annually  meal, 
felty  fugar,  tea,  iron,  flazfeed,  green  hides,  and  other  goods, 
to  a  confiderable  amount.  The  chief  articles  exported,  are 
black  eattle,  horfes,  and  linen  yam  ;  for  the  women  here  are 
always  employed  in  fpinning,  excepting  a  few  weeks  during 
harvefl. 

/br^otrr/..— >Tliere  are  many  anchoring  places  along  this 
Ihore,  where  fmall  veffels  may  be  fafe  in  time  of  danger.  Ope 
of  thefe  is  about  3  miles  to  the  S.  W.  of  the  Sound  of  Iflay, 
and  is  known  by  the  name  of  Locb^Knoci.  The  name  is  taken 
from  a  very  high  hill,  which  rifes  in  the  figure  of  a  (bgar 
loaf,  near  the  head  of  the  lake  or  bay,  and  is  the  firft  part  of 
this  end  df  the  ifland,  that  is  feen  by  mariners,  when  they  are  at 
n  great  diftance  from  the  fliore.  There  are  two  very  large 
flag  ftones  erefted  near  this  lake.    They  are  placed  about  24 

ftct 


Ibiac   (iom  eaoh  otber,  and  Aef  aTe'CHHed  the  Two  Stones  •/ 

J/lmidM^  4^r^— Theve  are  tiSo  «  fiew  fmaH  iflands  on  each 

fide  of  this  ^ntiy  to  the  Idee.     Strangers  fliould  therefore  be 

ipery  dfefiil  to  keep  at  a  proper  diftance  from  thefe  iflands, 

"wlicn  near  this  fliore,  -as  they  are  very  near  the  main  ifland. 

Xhefe  is  another  aiicboring  place,  about  3  'miles  to  the  S.  W» 

of  *Loch-Ki3fbck,  which  is  'known  by  the  name  of  Laga^ 

HdhiftlM.  There  are  3  #ays  of  comhig  to  ihis  anchoring  place, 

iwllich  is  oppofite  to  a  fmtU  villiigei  and  diey  ufually  caft 

Mdior  near  a  quay,  that  Kes  below  diis  village.    The  entry 

next  the  maoile,  on  the  W.  fide  of  the  bay,  is  the  beft  f  •    The 

Vol.  XI.  O  o  church 

*  The  coiainop  tnufitioD  conccrainf  tKde  ^Umes  it,  that  a  daughter  of  one 
of  the  klflgt  of  Denmark  was  buried  here,  wbofe  name  was  Y«la  ;  and  that 
from  her  this  ifland  was  called  Islat,  or  Iila;  which  fcenis  to  be  the  moie 
probable,  that  a  Highbinder  pronounces  both  thefe  words  nearly  in  the  fame 


f  On  the  £•  fide  of  this  ^bce  khttt  Is  a  tower,  or  caftle,  Vitowii  by  the  name 
of  Dmr-iiAOMaAto.  This  caiUe  is  bulk  on  a  large  roek,  which  isfutronnded 
^  the  fea  pD  aUiide^  asetpt  the  N.  There  are  ttlU,  ^oa  the  N.,  the  rcmaias  of 
many  old  hoofes,  that  had  been  boilt  for  barracks  and  ilorehoufes.  Some  of  the 
cellars,  and  a  baker's  boufe,  arc  ftill  Ttfible  here.  There  is  a  very  ftrong  wall  art 
the  W.  fide,  between  the  caftle  and  the  barracks ;  and  the  fide  walls  of  a  large 
gate  aie  ftill  ftamliBg.  This  gate  is  ealkd  the  Irm  Cfate ;  and  it  is  reported 
here,  that  the  iart  wasfu|ipUcd  with  water  IrQm  a  fmall  river,  that  mna  paft  the 
end  of  the  manfe;  and  that  it  was  tonduAed  in  pipes,  under  the  fca,  acrois  tliis 
bay,  to  the  diftance  of  about  half  a  mile.  There  is  a  large  (lone  ro«-)m  on  the 
top  of  the  Ibrt ;  and  here  the  gun  ports  are  entire.  On  the  N.  fide  of  this  room 
there  i§  an  earthen  mound,  which  is  very  thick ;  and  it  appears  to  hare  been 
boilt  np  to  the  top  of  the  furr,  as  a  kind  of  defence  to  that  part  of  the  buildiog  | 
Ibr  the  N*  is  die  only  piece  where  an  enemy  could  make  an  attack  on  thia  fort. 
There  is  a  high  hill  on  the  W.  fide  of  the  bay,  oppofite  to  this  fort,  where  there 
aras  alio  a  tower,  'for  the  defence  of  Don^naomhaig ;  and  as  bi/th  places  are 
aMfly  of  chetttiie  height,  and  oaly  about  the  diftance  of  about  a  quarter  of  a 

mile 


^ago  Statiftkai  Acct>9ml 

ehurch  now  emplojed  for  public  worikip  is  at  tbk  phce^ 
and  the  village  contains  loo  fools.  There  is,  to  the  W«» 
of  this  place  about  a  miles,  aa  ifland,  called  7#»a  /  and, 
on  the  N.  fide,  a  very  good  phce  for  anchoring  krge  ibips. 
The  anchoring  is  oppofite  to  an  old  chapel,^  that  is  about  the 
middle  of  the  ifland.  Thofo  who  are  fisaogevs  here,  fliould 
keep,  if  poffible,  at  the  diftance  of  a  mile  from  the  W.  end 
of  this  ifland,  when  they  arc  going  through  the  found,  between 
this  and  the  main  ifland,  or  when  they  are  obliged  to  caft 
anchor ;  as  there  is  a  ridge  of  rocks  that  lie  out  frotti  the 
W.  end,  un^  you  are  on  a  level  with  the  N.  fide  of  this 
ifland.  The  £•  end  of  the  ifland  is  £Me  from  vooks,  and  the  beft 
ground  for  anchoring  is  near  the  fliore.  This  ifland  ib  near 
%  miles  in  length,  and  above  ^  mile  in  breadth.  There  is 
good  pafture  in  this  fmall  ifland;  and  there  is  a  burying- 
pkce  around  the  chapel,  the  waHs  of  which  are  partly 
Handings.  Thefe  are  the  remains  of  other  2  or  3'  chapels  in 
this  parifli,  where  they  were  formerly  wont  to  bury  thofo 
who  were  of  the  popifli  religion ;  but  the  whole  inhabitants 
of  this  parifli  now  belong  to  the  £ft«hliflied  Church ;  fo  that 
there  are  none  now  buried  at  thefe  chapels,  unlefo  when  n 
ilranger  happens  to  die  here,  who  is  of  the  Roman  Catholie 
religion. 

Bayi^  and  Rod*,  Mc^Pl  little  to  the  N.  W.  of  this  ifland, 
there  is  a  bay,  called  the  Lowdinas^  where  many  fmall  veflfels 
may  anchor ;  for  it  is  large,  and  w'ell  flickered  on  all  fides  but 
the  S»    The  whole  of  thefe  anchoring  places  are  very  dan- 
gerous 

mile  fnm  each  other,  it  wuen  eafjr  nutter  lo  preunt  tauiU  vdUU  bom  coeiios 
to  this  place ;  for  no  vcflcl*  that  draw  above  6  or  7  feet  water,  can  c<ime  her* 
at  any  time.  It  u  faid,  that  the  M^DopaUs  of  Iflaj  lived  here  about  the  be- 
ginning of  the  Uft  centuryr  There  are  a  great  maaf  foru  and  buildiagp 
siib  within  a  Cqw  niilei  of  thi>  place. 


geram  ibr  flnngen  to  come  intOi  becaofe  «M  of  rtiem  aro  for- 
scamitA  widi  large  rock«,  chat  run  along  the  whole  ooaft,  and 
in  man  J  places  jnt  oat  into  the  fea  3  or  4  miles  ;  «nd  fome  of 
them  are  vifiUe,  others  not*    When  Grangers  are  obliged  to 
take  Aelcer  hete  from  a  ftorm^  tb^  ibouldi  if  pofllble,  g^ 
out  fome  boat  from  the  fhore,  thattiiejr  may  have  fome  of  the 
natnvs  of  the  ttaod  to  pilot  them^hrongh  thefe  rocks^  and  to 
condnA  them  into  the  beft  ground  for  anchoring.     The  in- 
liabitantt  here  are  very  ready  to  perform  this  fervice  to  att 
fiffangers,  if  it  lies  10  their  power  to  give  ihem  .aiBftance* 
There  are  many  other  joreeks  along  this  ooaft,  into  which  the 
natives  ma  wiHi  their  fmall  boats  ;  bur  ftrangers  :are  in  very 
gseat  danger,  when  they  venture  into  any  of  thofe  creeks,  be** 
canfe  many  of  them  are  full  of  fiink  rocks.     There  is  a  place 
called  Dmn^AiA^  where  a  Danifli  iort  was  formerly  ■  built. 
Ttfe  rock  on  which  this  fort  ftood  is  very  large,  and  its  height, 
from  the  boctom  of  the  foa,  is  very  extraordinary.    The  top 
of 'die  rock  is  now  covered  widi  grals  ;  for  there  is  no  ap«i 
peannce  of  tey  building  now.semaimog.    The  wall,  on  the 
N«  fide,  is  nearly  covemd  with  earth,  and  the  whole  N.  fide 
is  £oe  pnflure  for  fteep.  Tbeivs  is  mora  than  an  acse^f  ground 
between  theitop  and  the  N*  fide  of  il^  rock.  There  is  a  deep 
vaBcy  boih  on  the  W«  tnd  die  £•  -of  this  roek;  and  the 
afcent  b  fo  very  fteep  on  each  ^e,  that  it  is  alnioft  impoffibfe 
for  any  man  to  creep  up  Upon  his  hands  and  feet  to  the 
tap.    Nonoadinary  gun  is  foppofied  to  be  capable  of  carrying 
U  ball  from  dip  bottom  of  this  valley  ti>  the  top  of  dierock^ 

Qoa  There 


*  It  U  iaidy  that  the  ool/  wsy  of  accelt  iq»  to  it  was  on  the  iirf  edge  of 
this  greit  ^Uey ;  and  that  there  waa  a  cave  made  here,  where  a  £ew  men  were 
lad ;  who,  when  they  faw  any  perfon  coming  near  the  entry,  either  lMB  them 
hooi  the  cave,  or  drove  them  over  the  precipice,  whereby  they  were  daihcd  ta 
f  ieces  before  they  reached  the  botton  of  thia  immenic  vallejr. 


agz  Statifikal  Acfotmi 

Tberd  b«  pait  o£  K  wftH  j«e (UodiBg*. in  a  piaot  Itet  i«  ] 
very  daogerons  to  Apfrotf«b»  This  m41  i»  a)K>qC  iS  fce^ 
thick.  The  iieay  alinoft  every  daf,  deOiea  againft  it  iii  a  OMift 
tremendiletes  maoiier ;  fbr  this  place  ia  vet jr  near  Ae  MfHe  mf 
Clmmn^tMh,  and  it  is  the  raoA  daagaraua  pteae  in  this  fuHk 
for  an  J  vtSA  ta  come  near.  AU  the  famnS'  rauad  thia  fort 
hare  Dantfii  names,  fach  as  KgmAms^  Jljjfbu^  KMmM^  lirrw 
lus^  aad  Cragjokut* 

laies,  HUbf  Sce.^^Thcfe  ace  4  lakes  in  thia  codof  tliep»« 
riiky  and  thece  are  alifb  fadie  lakes  in  die  High  aa^ontaias  h^ 
lofigivg..to  it ;.  but  the|i  ar^  c£  litde  ufe  ta  the  peopk  hen» 
v/ho  have .  alaaoA  theiir  wfacie  fifli  from  the  fta ;  only  tfaafe 
who*  are  aear  thefe  Idtes  aaay  foobetiiBea  eat^  a  few  trouta 
iathem.  The  moantaiiibiUi  putt  of  the  parilk  is  Terj  cju 
tc0five»  and  part  o€  it  it  a  eofasnon  to  aH  the  teaants,.  where 
thejr  padiire.  their  ftraog  black  cattle  and  hocfea  ta  ftMUOMC^ 
and  a  pait  of  autunm*  Some  pacta  of  thafe  mountaias  aic 
barren  apd.  wet;  hut  tfaete  iafiBenadfy  foil^. where flietp  aaigbc 
gnd  gaid  p^kntt ;  and  if  .a  great  pttanhcc  of  them  were  fed 
here,  tl^&gca^  would,  gradually  becooae  betlcr  every  jear^ 
Thece.arc  only  a  flew  fliee^  of  airery  faaall  hiad^  that  feed  on 
'  thefe  mounmina,  Irana  tlieidaie  they  fow  aheir  feed  till  ilia 
%«hole  epop  ia>g0t  ia. 

fVcodsifid  Fkii. — The<  giaatefk  part  gf  the  wood  of  IfiiQp! 
lies  omeaeh  fide  of  Locfa-Knack-    llns  wood^  adnch  coafifia 

of  fmall  timber  of  various  kiada,  extends  above  a  miles  alon^ 
the  fea.  The  whole  inhabitants  have  liberty  to  cnt  dowa 
timber,  and  carry  it  away  at  pleafure,  out  of  this  wood.  Here 
they  g&l  bark|  and  wood^  fat  their  farming  utenfits ;  and  finne 
of  t^^.uie  the  timber  for  fuel,  when  they  are  fcarce  of 
,    .         ^  peats^ 


vrihiob  v«  the  pnacieal  £«b1  we  have,  and  ve  very 
ylfiDlifvl  thi^iigbom  all  this  ifland. 

Pi»)lfi£iih(Mr«Y-»-Tbis  parilh  containa  above  1600  Sbula ;  «id 
4»e  &maka  are  move  av^rous  tkan  ebe  males,  ^  great  aumr 
Wf  o£  jKHing  mem  baviag  left  tbe  paviib,  aad  gene  to  the  Low 
Cou»ti7  fay  eaaplp^jiaent :  SoBie  have  (oae  te  Amerka  aii4 
f>Aer  places  ^  fo  thai  the  nOHibeff  of  kifaabkaat^  had  dtninUh* 
cd  mihifii  thefe  40  yeais*.  There  is  no  regifter  kept  of  the 
Iroxsals.  The  foll&wiag  is  a  lijCt  of  the  bapufms  aad  akarriag^i 


MARRIAGES. 

BAPTISMS* 

Anno 

■Male*. 

Femates, 

TotO. 

1789 

34 

»5 

18 

33 

1790 

22 

31 

z6 

47- 

r79t 

8 

10 

a? 

37 

J79» 

11 

'    3» 

a? 

58 

Tofal, 

66 

»7 

88 

«7S 

^Dwtl  anrcnges 

>6i 

*ii 

%% 

4li 

fl^pif  Manner  pf  Lmng^  dcc.«-^The  wages  of  men  far- 
I  ate  jL  Sierfingv  befiAes-ibac  little  advantageff,  fiich  as 
ground  fnc  fiowing  flax4ieed^  or  potatoes.  Womea  fervanta 
have  flboot'the  half  of  that  fuos*  The  Ime  of  bech  is 
dowdiie  what  it  was  ao  ycais  ago ;  and  theta  is  aloooft  an 
aniual  iacfeafe  ia  dietr  wa^.  There  are  very  few  employ, 
ed  by  the  day;  but  wbca  tbcy  avr,  tbey  get  6d.  a  day  and 
Aeir  maimaiaaiice.  Tradeikaci^  art  generaUy  paid  to  much 
per  piece ;  but  as  wm  have  oa  kind  of  maaufaftare,  the  num- 
ber of  tradefmeu  is  very  few.    The  poor  people  who  have 

faaiiKea, 

e  For  the  decreaiie  10  thii  psrilh,  at  well  a|  the  total  iocrcafe  10  tbc  iflsad. 


^94  Statical  Jccatmt 

families,  fpend  much  of  their  timet  infprmgv  inprepsriag 
fome  poutoe  land,  and  in  canybg  manufe  from  the  (hoca 
on  their  backs,  which  thej  fprtad  on  fuch  mod  land  as  they 
procure ;  for  the  fea-ware  is  very  abuhdant,  and  proves  good 
manure  for  mofs  ground.  The  fummer,  again,  is  omplojcd 
in  cuttbg  their  own  peats,  and  the  peats  of  Dhole  on  whom 
they  depend  for  a  houfe,  or  a  oow's  graft,  or  any  other  ad« 
Tantages  they  enjoys  which  are  aH  paid  for  in  labour  of  this 
kind.  They  are  alfo  fireqnendy  employed,'  -on  fimilar  terms, 
iajiarveft,  as  they  get  ground  forfosring  flax-fieed,  which 
they  pay  for,  by  alfifting  the  farmers  in  cutting  down  Aeir 
barley  and  oats  ;  nothing  elfe  being  fown  here  excepting  potn- 
.toes,  which  is  the  o^ly  fupppxt  of  the  poor.  They  $Uo  catch 
ibme  ^y  fiih  and  cod,  which  they  dry,  and  keep  for  winter 
provifions ;  and  they  fomjBtimes  get  a  few  herrings  in  the 
winter  feafon ;  but  the  herrings  aje  only4riveu  here  in  fl^oi^wj 
weather,  and  feldom  continue  any  time. 

Poor.*— The  number  of  thofe  who  apply  to  the  kiik-feffiou 
for  charity,  feldom  exceeds  so,  as  we  have  no  fund  for  their 
relief,  except  what  is  coUeded  on  Sabbath  in  the  church, 
which  is  very  trifling.  However,  the  wants  of  the  poor  are 
par.tly  fqpfiilied  by  the  tenants  at  their  own  honfes,  wbere 
they  give  freely  what  is  neceflary  for  their  maintaiaance  and 
clothing.  The  natives  are  very  hofpitaU^  to  ftrsngers ;  and 
are  often  impofed  upon  by  vagrant  beggars,  who  are  very 
capable  of  working  for  their  own  fupport.  Givii^  charity 
to  fuch  perfons  is  an  encouragement  to  idleoels  and  vice, 
which  every  friend  to  mankind  ought  to  difconrage,  and  t^ 
ViAtd  the  oppofiie  virtues  of  induftry  and  fobriety. 

Churchy  (^f .— The  old  church  walls  are  entire,  though  the 
iroof  was  demoliihed  many  years  sgo.     It  is  about  a  century 

fiQ9fi 


f^f-KxldaltMl  79^ 

fifiee  pubKc  wbrflii  was  performed  m  it.  There  is  at  pr». 
fisnt  00  appearance  of  any  honfe  near  this  ehnrch^  There  is^ 
kowever,  wi^in  the  chardi-yard,  a*  very  large  cro&  %  and 
tfiereis  another  crob  on  the  outfide  of  the  wail  that  inclofes 
the  burying  ground ;  and  both  of  them  have  the  appearance 
of  havug  been  very  long  in  this  place.  This  church  ftands 
in  the  N.  E.  end  of  the  parifli,  and  within  a  few  miles  from 
the  entry  to  die  Sound  of  Iflaj.  There  is  alfo^  in  the  other 
end  of  the  parifli,  the  remains  of  an  old  churohi  at  a  place 
known  by  the  name  of  KUnaughian.  The  walls  of  this  kirk 
mre  very  much  decayed  ;  and  in  a  few  years  both  the  kirk 
and  the  burying  ground  will  be  covered  over  with-  fand^  that 
is  driven  from  the  ihore  in  great  quantities.  There  is  much 
•f  the  burying  ground  already  deftroyed;  for  there  is  no  wall 
or  fence  around  this  burying  place,  and  it  is  veiy  difficult  to 
fence  it,  fo  as  to  prevent  the  fand  from  blowing  over  the 
whole  chnrch-yardf  as  it  is  fonear  a  ftormyiea.  The  greateft 
part  of  the  inhabitants  are  buried  in  this  place.  The  nearefl: 
fiumt  to  this  is  called  BaiUe  Vicar ^  or  the  Ficar^s  Town ;  and 
there  is  joined  to  this  farm  the  clerk's  fattb^  which  is  now  o£ 
tome  value.  There  is,  at  the  diftance  of  4  miles,  a  farm 
called  Baiib  Narngbtani  and,  as  that  farm  is  the  centre  be- 
twete  the  two  kirks,  it  was  judged  a  proper  fituation  for  the 
ninifter's  manfe.  Thefe  a  farms  are  juftly  efteemed  the  beft 
land  in  the  whole  parifli.  The  church  now  employed  for 
public  worfliip  was  built  about  60  years  ago,  near  this  lail 
fiirm ;  end  it  is  flill  a  good  edifice;  only  the  roof  wants  fome 
repairs.  Public  worlhip  was  performed  here  before  the  new 
church  was  built.  Thereis  a  convenient  manfe  near  this  church, 
whidi  was  built  a  few  years  ago,  and  was  lately  plaiftered. 
Good  office  houfes  were  alfo  built  within  thefe  a  years.  The 
glebe  is  large,  and  maintains,  through  the  whole  year,  la 
cows,  and  4  horfea*     It  produces   la   Iflay   bolls  of  oat$, 

Z  bolls 


ft  iwlls  of  bodlej^  anl  4  kdHs  d£  -piolBloes ;  ibeSdes  theiftofli 
groilnd,  that  fomt  poftr  peofde  lisve  for  |  jetfs  gfstUMf  fMt 
pofiatoe  fzonndf*  Tiie  Aipead  is  naij  $dL  Stfldiag,  iphich  is 
ftU  paid  bjr  the  faAor  of  Iflsj  ;  a9  the  'Odiole  fuiAi  Moagi 
to  BCr.  CMiq^ieli^f  StMurfidd. 

^S^ioo/r.*— There  heve  beea  afdheolAouTes  Initlt  hefe  widus 
ihefe  3  years,  and  both  the  fcbeolmaders  aie  hidged  Hftdor  die 
iame  roof,  in  a  hofufe  joined  Id  each  of  die  &haol-hoidea. 
'the  one  is  the  parochial  Hohocil,  and  the  other  a  charity  fchooL 
Befides  thefc,  we  foiaelintts  have  other  a  fAotA^  at  the  taopt 
diftant  comers  of  this  large  parilh ;  and  there  is  great  need  of 
Ihean  aU  die  year,  if  k  wese  poffibte  to  ftt]qiort  the  teacbera. 

PecmMar  Privilege^  aud  €on/ejuenciSs*^This  ifland  hoth  « 
liberty  of  brewing  Tehiikj,  without  heiag  under  the  neoeffit j 
«f  paying  the  pfoal  exctle  doty  to  govemaieot*  We  have 
net  an  cxcife  oAcer  in  the  whok  iflaad«  The  quanlaty  these-* 
foie  of  -whi&y  made  here  »  very  great ;  and  the  evil,  itat 
foUows  drinking  to  eiccefs  of  this  li^uori  is  Very  vifibk  in 
this  ifiand.  This  is  one  chief  canfe  of  onr  poverty;  for  the' 
barley,  that  ibould  fuppott  the  £nnily  of  the  poor  tenant*  ia 
fold  to  a  brevrer  for  i7s«  the  boll ;  and  the  Unne  fisnner  m 
«fken  obliged  to  boy  nseal  at  il.  js.  Sterling,  in  order  to  keep 
Ilia  family  from  ftarving.  When  a  brewer  knofws  that  a 
poor  man  is  at  a  lofs  for  money,  he  advances  Jum  a  trifle,  on 
condition  that  he  makes  him  fore  of  his  bscrky  at  the  above 
price  ;  and  it  is  often  boaght  by  the  brewers  even,  at  a  lower 
fate ;  whiie  thofe  who  aire  not  obliged  to  alk  aaoney  until  they 

deliver 

t  These  U  a  ^ny  Urge  qvantit/  of  mois  land  in  this  illi&d,  that  tmghi  eafily 
be  improvedi  if  the  poor  people  had  it  for  1  or  3  yemc»,  rent  free,  they  might 
iiipport  their  own  iiumlicti  and  be  of  grcaffcrvlce  to  the  tenants  whofb  lands' 
arc  cultivated. 


of  Ktldaltdm  igy 

Oliver  iheir  bsfrle/,  receive  26s.  6r  more  for  ilf.  This  evil, 
of  <fiftiUiog  as  much  h^tjts  might  itokintain  mahy  families, 
it  i^  hoped,  hj  fome  means  or  other,  will  be  foon  aboliihed* 
It  nlaj  take  fome  time,  however,  to  prevent  the  people  from 
drinking  to  excefs ;  for  bad  habits  alt  not  eafiiy  otercome  ; 
but  there  wooM  furelj  be  fome  hopet  of  a  gradual  reforma- 
tion,* if  fpiritotts  li<juors  were  nOt  fo  abundant^  and  fo  eafily 
purchafed. 


Vol.  XI.  ?p  KUMBEIt 


2^  Stati/lical  Account 

NUMBER    XXII. 

UNITED  PARISHES  OF  KILLA    ROW 
AND  KILMENY, 

IN   THE  ISLAND   OF   ISLAY. 
(fioitniy  and  Synod  •/ Argyll— Frejbytiry  ef  Ktntyre.y 

Bf  the  Riv.  Mr.  JoHK  Murdoch*  Mimfltr. 


Origin  9f  the  Nanus. 

ISLAY  is  tntditionallj  derived  from  Isla,  daughter  of  oae 
of  the  kings  of  LochIia»  or  Norway,  who  lies  buried  im 
a  neighboaring  farm.  Killahrow  took  its  name  from  St. 
Marrow,  whofe  cell  or  burying  place  was  in  the  parifli :  And 
KiLMEKT  has  doubflefs  had  a  fimilar  derivation.  Killarrow 
is  now  frequently  called  Bowmore ;  the  old  church  at  Killar- 
row having  been  thrown  down,  and  the  piefent  church  built 
at  the  village  of  Bowmore. 

Extent,  Surface,  Rivers,  Tijb,  &c — The  parifli  of  Bow- 
more  is  of  great  extent,  being  17  or  1 8  computed  miles  long, 
and  8  broad.  Th6  lands  are  generally  low ;  the  hilb  arc  not 
very  high,  nor  rocky,  but  covered  with  heath  and  fern.   The 

river 


of  KHlarrow  und  Kilmenj^  299 

tiver  ^huggan^  where  there  is  a  falmon  fi(hing,  is  one  oT  the 
largeft  in  the  diftrift,  emptying  itfelf  into  a  baj  of  the  fame 
name»  in  the  S.  corner  of  the  pariih.    The  rtver  of  Kiffarrow 
runs  a  great  waj  in  the  coantrj,  and  empties  itfcif  into  the 
bay  or  harbour  of  Lochendaal,  which  harbour  runs  from  the 
Mull  of  Klaj  and  the  Hunn's  Point,  about  za  miles,  to  Shaw- 
field's  pleafure grounds.  It  is  an^xcellent  harbour  for  ihippingt 
ta  very  much  reforted  to,  and  of  late  more  than  ever  ;.  as  the 
proprietor  has  lately  built  a  fiue  quay  at  the  village  of  Bow« 
more,  which  will  contain  many  veflels  from  8  to  xo  feetwa* 
ten   The  harbour  abounds  with  all  forts  of  fi(h ;  and,  in  good 
weather,  the  inhabitants,  with  fmall  boats,  fupply  themfelvea 
abundantly.    Salmon  fells  at  i^d.  per  pound;  when  deareft^ 
at  ad.  per  pound.     As  every  farm  round  Lochendasd  has  a 
boat  of  its  own,  fi(h  are  in  no  great  demand,  nor  is  4ere  a 
market  conventent*^ 

Sb//,  Produce  and  Cultivation^  iSc.^-Tht  foil  varies  in  moft 
of  the  farms.  The  farmers  plow  too  much  ground.  The 
average  produce  of  oats  is,  from  3  to  4  returns,  of  barley  from 
4  to  5;  but  where  marl  and  lime,  or  ibell  fand,  are  eafily 
obtained,  and  the  lands  are  drained,  the  increafe  is  much 
greater.  Mr.  Campbell  has  improved  large  trafts  of  moor 
ground,  within  view  of  his  own  houfe,  which  lies  about  3 
Eaglifii  miles  from  the  vfllage ;  and,  from  his  method  of  cul- 
tivation, they  have  produced  large  crops.  He  fpares  neither 
pains  nor  expence;  and  in  this  refpeft  feveral  of  his  te« 
nants  attempt  to  imitate  him.    It  is  computed  that  he  lays 

P  p  a  out 


*  JKboot  ao  iMsrs  ago,  foiae  gendemeti  adveatiirers  (rom  Liveifoal,  fitce4 
oat  3  finacki,  with  wells,  and  caught  great  quantities  of  cod  and  ling  at  tha 
Bmd  Lsmdit  which  fupplicd  the  Liverpool  markeu  abundantly;  bnt^  ihe  bad<«oa» 
dod  of  the  periea»  ca^Ioyed  obliged  tham  to  give  it  t^. 


300  StaHftical  Account 

out  jtwAj  from  700!.  to  zoool.  pej  annom  upoa  impTMr^. 
meats,  though  his  ftsjr  here  be  hut  a  or  3  mouths  ia  Am 
jear.  X)at9  «rt  fown  from  xhp  middle  of  Marcl^  to  the  middle 
of  Ap^'U  '^^  barlej  iya  April  and  lif  ay^  as  well  as  the  Aaxp» 
ieed»  of  yrhidi  the  people  of  this  ifland  iow  f  ao  hogihead^ 
(new  fkpi)  auouallj  ^  befides  what  i«  reared  in  the  cooutry, 
.the  vali^  of  which,  m  the  year,  may  amount  to  aoocd. 
There  is  a  great  4^al  of  lioeo  clQth  manufa^red  for  homo 
coiifumption,  and  fome  for  (ale.  The  harve^  is  as  early  ia 
Iflay,  as  in  the  aeighhourhood  of  Glf%ow 

CHmqie^  |fc.-*^The  air  is  generally  ipoift,  froo^  its  lop4  iitu* 
jation,  being  fijinounded  by  th^  fea,  an/d  haying  pp  i)ielter  from 
the  ftorms  of  |he  Atlantic  Ocean,  neai]er  than  North  America^ 
1J^^J  is  the  moft  wedem  part  of  Scotland,  The  prevailing 
winds  are  the  W.  and  $•  W.  The  feafpns  of  late  \^^vt  pfaanged 
to  the  diCMlyantage.  The  2  laft  years  we  had  little  or  no 
froft  or  fpring ;  foretimes  the  tops  of  the  trees  were  covered^ 
The  rains  and  high  wti^ds  \n  the  fuc^jseding  fumnoers,  hurt 
the  crops,  which  obliged  the  inhabitants  to  import  meal  % 
whereas,  in  former  years,  they  ufed  to  export  lar|(e  quantities 
to  other  macketp. 

Co/fiSf— There  Ut  tifici;  a  year,  a  in^rket  for  black  cattle  i 
%o  which  drovers  frpm  the  main  land  always  refort,  and  buy 
up  great  nufubeirs.  The  cattle  are  of  an  excellent  ijuality, 
aud  dff w  high  prices. 

ff^buifm^'^lStom  %  Ifat^  furvey,  th^  number  of  fouls  ii| 

KillarroWf 


^  Klllarrow  and  Klltneny.  301 

KiUarroWy  including  thofe  in  the  village,  amount  to    •  2^00 
Tiiere  ate  in  Eiimtojr  about        .««.«-        aooo 

^  4500 

The  return  to  Dr.  Webfter,  in  1755,  was  only        •       1761 

^ence  there  is  an  incr-eafe  tS,        «         ^739 

Indeed  xhe  whole  population  of  lilaj  has  inpreafed  greatlj 
within  thefe  40  jears  f ,  owing  principally  to  the  ten^Qt^,  who 
are  in  poffeflion  of  large  farms,  dividing  their  ppiTeffiona 
among  their  children,  wh^h  encourage^  marriage*  Some, 
however,  who  are  reduced  in  their  circumfliances,  are  obliged 
ito  emigr:%te« 

V^Ilagf.'^The  village  of  Bqwmore  was  beguu  in  the  year 
17  68,  and  laid  out  on  a  regular  plan.  By  order  of  the  pro- 
prietor, the  new  church  was  built  at  the  end  of  one  of  the 
principal  fireets,  in  a  very  elegant  manoeri  and  iipon  a  new 
plan»  It  is  ornatmen^ed  with  afteeple,  fronting  thequay,  bui}c 
from  tbe^  foundation  with  freed  one*  It  coil  about  xoooL 
There  are  already  no  houfes  built  in  the  village,  50  of  which 
aire  covered  with  blue  flates,  20  with  tiles,  and  the  reft  are 
thatched.  The  inhabitants  are  increafing.  The  number  at 
prefect  ((793)9  of  o]4  and  young,  is  al^oiit  500, 

Church f  School^  and  Poor*— Befides  the  new  church  in  Bow« 
more  above  mentioned,  there  is  another  in  the  parifh  of  Eal« 
meny,  7  miles  diflant.  The  value  of  the  livings  is  but  fmall, 
and,  including  the  glebe  and  manfe,  not  worth  above  foL 
a  year.  J^e  King  is  patron.— There  is  only  one  charity 
ichool  in  both  the  pariihes,  though  the  people  are  fond  of  be« 
^ng  ioftroded. — ^The  poor  of  both  pariihes  are  not  very  nii» 

merous* 

i  For  the  par^cabn  of  t^e  total  lacreafe,  fie  |piCBOiCAV|  page  279. 


302  Statiftical  Account 

■lerous*  Sach  as  are  able  to  travel  from  door  to  door  avo 
trell  fapplied ;  fuch  as  are  coafiaed  are  affifted  bom.  the  col- 
iediona  on  Sundays,  and  fome  little  fonds  in  the  poor's  box* 

Roads  amd  jBrft(f n •— The  roads  in  Iflaj  are  carried  on  to 
great  perfeftion*  Thofe  already  finiflied  are  excellent^  parti* 
cularly  from  the  Sound  of  Iflay  to  Bowmore,  a  diftance  of 
al>out  ta  miles,  wherein  there  are  7  bridges,  built  with  ftonc 
ai>d  lime*  The  reft  of  the  roads  go  on  in  courfe;  and,  in  Ids 
than  20  years,  they  may  be  all  travelled  with  carriages. 

Minerals. — ^There  is  plenty  of  lime*l(one  and  marl,  which, 
when  the  roads  now  making  by  the  proprietor  are  finiJbed, 
will  be  the  means  of  improving  large  trafis  of  land,  ftill  in 
a  ftarte  of  nature,  but  very  capable  of  improvement. 

CbaraBer  of  Ae  Pfo//r.— The  inhabitants  are  moftly  na- 
tives of  the  ifland,  and  all  belong  to  the  Efiablifhed  Church. 
They  are  hofpitable,  generous,  and  humane ;  and,  like  all 
iflanders,  attached  to  their  country. 


NUMBER 


^  Edcnbam^  ^03 


NUMBER    XXIIL 


PARISH  OF   EDENHAM,    OR    EDNAM. 


{Qwnty  of  Roxhurgln^PreJbytery  of  Ketfo^^Synoi  of  Mtrfi 
and  T'ivioidaiiJ) 


By  the  Rev,  Mr.  Datid  Dickson,  Minifter. 


Namif  Situation^  ami  Rivers, 

THIS  parlih  derives  its  name  from  a  compound  of <  Edem 
and  Ham;  being  fituated  on  the  banks  of  the  river  Edett^ 
and  Ham  fignifjing  a  village.  The  vUlage,  where  the  church 
fiands,  is  built  on  the  N.  bank  of  the  river  Eden^  which 
runs  for  more  than  3  miles  through  this  diflrifi,  and  joint 
the  Tweed  at  Edenmouth.  The  pariih  is  placed  in  one  of  the 
mod  delightful  fituations  in'  Scotlandf  on  the  banks  of  the 
river  Tweed.  This  beautiful  river,  after  being  joined  by  the 
Tiviot  at  Kelfo,  bounds  the  pariih  of  Edenham,  about  a  mile 
below  it«  OB  the  S.  and  S.  £•  The  pariih  is  not  quite  a  mile 
and  a  half  diftant  from  the  Engliih  border,  at  the  bum  of 
Carham,  on  the  oppofite  fide  of  the  Tweed,  formerlj  well 
known  by  the  name  of  the  March  Burum 

Exuut 


564  StAtlfllcal  Account 

Extent  and  Climate. — In  extent,  it  is  about  3  miles  broad, 
end  rather  foine  what  more  in  length.  The  elimate  of  Edenham, 
from  its  fitaation  00  the  two  rivers,  is  undoubtedlj  falabri- 
oas ;  yet,  firce  the  prefent  incumbent  was  fettled,  it  has  been 
viiited  by  different  epidemical  fevers,  that  fometimes  proved 
mortal. 

Cultivation,  Surfaeti  Hills,  Soil^  He. — Agriculture  is  carried 
on  to  a  great  extent  in  this  pari(h.  The  indnftrj  and  &£tivity 
of  the  farmers  cannot  be  exceeded,  and  they  are  all  opqjent  and 
profperoos.  The  furface  of  the  grounds  confifls  of  feme  beauti^ 
f ul  flats  in  many ;  laces,  efpecially  on  the  fides  of  the  rivers  Tweed 
and  Eden.  The  parifh  contains  alfo  fe«^eral  fields,  lying  on  in* 
clined  plains.  There  are  ttvorifing  grounds,  one  on  theN.  fide 
of  the  Eden,  near  the  village,  called  Edenham  Hill^  and  another 
between  the  Tweed  and  the  Eden,  called  Henderjide  Hill. 
The  height  of  neither  is  great,  though  not  afcertaincd  ;  but 
they  are  both  highly  cultivated.  The  foil  is  of  various  kinds : 
Some  part  of  it  ftrong  clay,  fome  of  it  light  fand  and  channel^ 
and  fome  of  it  a  mixture  of  both.  In  a  few  places  there  is  a 
thin  bed  of  mofs,  covering  rich  ftores  of  marl.  The  marl  has 
been  dug  for  manure,  at  confiderable  expence,  and  it  has  been 
attended  with  great  luccefs.  Burned  ]ime*flone  is  brought 
in  great  quantities  from  Northumberland,  at  the  dlflance  of 
17  or  18  miles. 

Prodnce  and  Tarm  Rents — ^The  ground  produces  wheat, 
barley,  peafe  and  beans,  and  oats,  all  of  the  bed  quality, 
Wbich  can  fcatccly  be  exceeded  in  any  part  of  Scotland.  It 
produces  aMb  turnips,  and  broad  clover,  in  abundance ;  and  the 
paftnre  land  is  of  the  richeft  kind.  Land  rent  is  confequent- 
]y  high  in  price :  3!.  an  acre  has  been  given  here  both  for 

arable 


of  Edcnbanu  305 

•nbk  aod  paftore  laad^  and  inferior  prices  acoordiag  to 
the  qualitj. 

CattU  and  fW/.— -The  £irmers  confider  the  land  as  too  good 
for  breeding  cattle  or  Iheepv  and  therefore  few  are  reared  ia 
the  pari(h :  The  fheep  and  cattle  are  moftlj  all  bought  in,  and 
fed  for  the  butcher  to  great  valtte.  Fuel  is  ▼exy  expenfive,  as 
there  are  no  coals,  but  "what  are  brought  from  Northumber- 
land, at  the  diilance  of  x  6  or  x  8  miles. 

Po/si&/fOff-— The  number  of  inhabitaata  has  laereafed  con- 
fiderablj  within  thele  40  years* 

The  pre&nt  number  of  fouls  is  about        «        «         .      tfoo 
The  return  to  Dr.  Wehfter,  in  X  755,  was  onljr      -      -   387 

Increafej^         «        «        113 

The  number  of  births,  burials,  and  marriages  is  not  eafily 
albertained*  Seceders,  though  obliged  bj  law  to  regifter  the 
births  of  their  children  ia  the  parifh  regifter^  confider  the  tax 
on  baptilms  as  a  profauaiiQn^  and  often  negleft  it  on  that  ac-i 
count;  though  afterwards  it  may  be  prejudicial  to  their 
children.  And  marriages  are  often  made  fo  irregularly,  by 
perfons  not  legally  qualified,  that  thofe,  who  belong  to  tho 
SeceiSon,  do  not  willingly  fubmit  to  the  difcipline  of  the^ 
Church. 

Improvements  and  ManufaBuret^  &c.— The  population  of 
this  parifli  has  not,  however,  increafed  in  proportion  to  what 
It  once  promified.  When  the  late  James  Dicksok^  £{q.  M.  P. 
became  proprietor  of  Edenham,  being  a  perfon  of  public 
fpirit,  he  indofed  all  his  lands,  planned  and  built  a  neat  tH* 
lage,  the  boufes  being  all  of  brick,  covered  with  pantiU^  or 
ilaies  ^---^brought  manufaOurers  from  England,  and  efta« 

VouXI.  0^4  W>^^* 


3o6  Statiftical  Account 

bliibed  yrooUen  miioufadares  for  cloth»  particulau-Ij  for  Eng« 
liih  blankets.  He  alfo  erefied  a  waulk  mill,  to  promote 
this  ufcful  undertaking  \  but  his  death  marred  the  pro^refs  of 
thofe  public  fpirited  fchemea.  He  built  alfo  an  extenfivo 
brewcrj,  which  i^  ftill  carried  on  with  great  fuccefs ;  and 
great  quantities  o(  the  ale  and  porter,  brewed  in  it,  are  export- 
ed to  England.  We  have  likewife  a  corn  mill  and  a  good 
bleacbfield  in  the  parifh. 

i?oai2r.-*-The  roads  are  verj-  bad.  They  are  repaired  bj  a  con^ 
▼erfion  of  the  flatute  labour.  Lail  winter,  however,  (i 79 2-3)9 
an  a£l  of  parliament  was  obtained  for  making  feveral  roads 
near  Kelfo,  and  eftablifhing  toU-bars.  Bj  this  ad,  three  new 
roads  will  be  made  through  thb  parifli,  which  will  be  of  great 
ftrvice  in  this  part  of  the  country,  where  they  have  been  mucl^ 
wanted  for  thcfe  many  years  paft* 

C&iirtf&.— The  church  is  very  fmall,  was  built  about  3^ 
years  ago,  and  is  very  infufficient.  There  are  fome  Quaker^ 
and  Epifcopals,  but  no  Roman  Catholics*  The  number  ctf 
Seceders  is  not  eafily  afcertained,  as  aU  (he  denominations  of 
them  have  hoiifes  of  worfliip  in  Kelfo,  and  Edenham  lies  fp 
near  it,  that  many  of  the  inhabitants  attend  thefe  meetings ;  but 
aU  the  principal  farmers  attend  the  Efiabliflied  Church.  The 
King  is  undoubted  patron* 

Heritors  and  Ppor.-p-Thc  number  of  heritors  are  four.  As 
none  of  them  refide  in  theparifli,  the  coUedions  at  the  church 
doors  are  but  trifling ;  in  confequence  of  which  the  poor  are 
obliged  to  be  maintained  by  afieflmentSi  regularly  laid  on  fpr 
thpir  fupport. 

MsPitne^tm 


of  Edcnbatn.  307. 

Eminent  Men* — Mr.  James  THoMsoir»  the  celebrated  author 
bf  the  Seq/bns,  gcc.  was  the  fon  of  the  reverend  Mr.  Thomas 
Thomfon,  the  fecoiid  mimfter  of  this  p<iriih  after  the  Revolu- 
tion, and  was  born  at  Edenhami  in  the  year  1700.  It  is  un- 
neceffarj  here  to  enlarge  upon  the  merits  of  an  author  fo  well 
known,  and  whofe  genius  and  abilities  do  Co  much  honour  to 
his  native  Country.  A  p^pofal  ^as  mstd^,  fome  years  ago, 
to  ereft  a  monument  to  his  'memory,  on  Edenham  Hill,  with- 
hx  view  of  the  mahfe;  biit  the  plan  has  not  yet  been  accdn- 
pllflied.  Several  noblemen  and  gentlemen,  however,  with  a 
laudable  zeal  for  the  literary  fame  of  their  country,  have  met 
annually  at  Edenham,  for  fome  years  paft,  to  celebrate  Thom- 
fon's  birth  day,  as  well  as  with  a  view  to  forward  the  execu- 
tion  of  that  defign; 

jfHtiquitiesi — ^Tbere  is  a  fmall  riling  ground,  W.  from  the 
▼illagt,  called  the  PiUs  Kn6w ;  out  of  which,  fome  years  ago, 
tvere  dug  three  ftone  coffins,  with  an  urn  in  one  of  them.  The 
Know  is  fince  inclofed,  and  planted  with  ttees^. 

QJii  NtlM. 


*  A  £uiii  in  this  parilh  it  aamed  C«ii^/itf,  which  feemt  to  be  io  calleif  from  it^ 
comaifUDg  eitenfive  earthen  mounds, called  Cami'inow*,  At» before  the  union  of 
tiic  kingdoms,  this  was  the  warlike  part  of  the  country,  thefe  ttttnuU  tUm  to 
izrt  bedta  mifed  by  art,  as  meazis  of  defence. 


^oS  Stati/iical  Account 

NUMBER    XXIV. 

PARISH    OF  GIRTHON. 
{C*iMty  andprtjbyttry  ofKiricudi)rigit—^jii»do/Gmikviay^ 

By  the  Rev4  Mr.  Wbluam  Thouvrh. 

Kttunwn  and  Exieni* 

GIRTHON  lies  9hout  6  mSLtn  N.  W.  of  the  bufgh  of 
Kirkcudbright*  It  no  where  aflumes  a  regular  figure. 
The  extent  from  N.  to  S.  is  about  ao  miles;  and  the  breadth, 
from  £.  to  W.,  from  3  to  5. 

Soil  and  SmfaCij^^thxSt  are  extremely  varied.  For 
about  10  mjles  from  its  northern,  and  all  along  its  eafiem 
boundary,  it  is  bleak,  unequal,  hill  j,  and  covered  with  heath. 
For  xo  miks  to  the  S.,  within  a  mile  of  the  Fket^  it  prefent» 
a  beautiful  level  furface,  which  yields  grain  and  grafs  of  aa 
excellent  quality.  Except  the  extenfive  wood  of  Cafiramoni^ 
there  is  little  natural  wood ;  though  the  foil  feems  higklj 
favourable  for  rearing  tsees  of  overy  fpeoies« 

V 


ofCirthoi/.  ^6§ 

Ctimati.  —The  air  and  climate  vary  with  the  (oil  and  tvit* 

face.     In  Che  high  lands,  and  to  the  £•  aUd  N.»  they  are  coUl 

mod  ttaplea£uit :  la  the  low  lands,  and  towards  the  S.,  they 

are  mild  and  agreeable.    Though  die  frequent  rains  rendc^ 

tlie  foil  there  rather  moid ;  yet,  from  its  being  defended  wit& 

the  hiUa  and  high  lands,  ezpofed  to  the  fun,  and  opea  to  the 

fea  breezes,  the  atmofphere  which  covers  it,  is,  in  general,  purd 

mnd  healthy*     The  di&afes,  which  appear  here,  are  in  ao  re« 

fpeft  pecalian    They  are  fuch  as  afflift  the  inhabitants  €^  aU 

the  foothera  diftri£U  of  Scotland. 

CtthmUkm^  jSaimab,  Futl^  t/^.—- The  fyftem  of  agriculture 
is  the  ikme  here,  that  is  generally  adopted  by  all  who  cultivate 
knd  near  the  fea  coail*.  The  horfes  are  mdlly  bred  by  the 
farmers.  The  eows  are  of  the  well  known  Galloway  breed. 
The  iheep  arc  af  the  fmall  aioor  kind.— ^various  forts  of  game 
and  wild  animals  are  found  here :  Groufe,  Uack-cocks,  par-^ 
tndges,  hares,  nbWts,  woodcocks,  badgers,  foxes  and  pole«< 
cat!.*  Peats,  the  fuel  nfed  by  the  farmers  and  cottars,  are 
dear,  owing  to  the  diflance  of  the  mofies,  aiid  the  bad  roads 
Ivhich  lead  to  them. 

Rivers^  Fifty  and  Latti. — The  Fint^  which  bounds  this  pa« 
iifli  to  the  W*  is  a  beautiful  winding  river,  and  difembogues 
itfolf  into  Wigton  Bay.  There  is  a  falmon  fifhing  belonging 
to  it,  now  oT  littfe  value ;  owing  probably  to  the  lime  import- 
ed, and  to  a  foap  houfo  lately  ereAed  on  its  banks.  The 
lakes  are,  Locb»  Fleets  the  fource  <^  the  river,  abounding 
withtrouts:  Loch^Sctro^  abounding  with  pike:  Locb^Grun^ 
itoHi,  about  3  miks  long^  and,  in  fome  places,  i  mile  broad, 

remarkable 

*For  a  deffiri^ion  of  flw laptaaeau of  hvibaodry, nuioiin, csopi^ lice. » 
TCferwce  it  nude  to  the  ft>tiftk«l  accoiintt  of  the  oeighbouriof  piriihci ;  pwtW 
•akrlj,  ^Mm  WU.,111  and  IV.  y  iMr  ^Wkfr#. 


j  i  o  Siatifiical  Account 

tcmatkaUe  for  its  vaft  numbers  of  charr,  a  fpecks  of  fiflr  rar^ 
in  Scotland:  aifd  LochWbifmyamt  aboondiog  with  troats« 
This  lake*  it  deferves  notice,  fumilhes  the  cotton  mills  at 
Gatehoufe  with  a  copious  ftreafm  of  wuter ;  the  courfe  for 
conveying  which  from  the  lake,  was  cuit  a  long  way  throngbr 
a  hill,  at  the  expence  of  above  xaooL 

Prepruior\  Maftfion^Himfe^  Sec. — The  whole  parifh  is  the 
property  of  James  Murray,  Efq,  of  Brougbton,  whofe  man- 
iiott-houfe,  Catty,  flands  about  an  £ngli(h  mile  below  Gate- 
houfe,  at  a  fmall  diftance  from  the  borders  of  the  Fleet.  The 
fituation  is  extremely  plealant.  The  houfe  is  modem,  and 
amongft  the  largeft,  and  moft  princely,  in  the  fouth  of  Scot* 
land.  The  place  ia  laid  out  on  an  extenfive  fcale.  About 
looo  acres  are  in  planting,  gardens,  orchards,  and  pleafure-^ 
grounds*  The  gardens  were  made  at  a  great  expence,  and 
have  eqiialled  the  proprietor's  expeftatioas.  Befides  the  com* 
jnon  fruits,  they  yield  apricots,  figs,  grapes,  and  nefiarines^ 
equal  to  any  in  the  hot-houfes  of  this  country*  There  is  alfo 
a  deer  park,  well  ftocked ;  the  venifon  of  which  is  reckoaed 
equal,  if  not  fuperior  to  any  ia  Britain* 

Rita,  Ltafes^  Strvituies,  \ic. — ^The  total  valuation  of  the 
pariih,  in  the  cefs-book,  is  3181L  3s.  6d*  Scotch,  or  2731*  8?* 
7  Id*  Sterling.  The  prefent  rent  is  about  3500I.,  including  a 
moderate  average  rent  for  the  lands  not  in  leafe*  The  leafcs 
arc  generally  given  for  19  years.  The  greater  part  of  the 
moor  lands  are  let  by  the  lump :  The  low  lands  bring  about 
IDS*  per  acre :  The  fields,  near  Gatehoufe,  from  il.  to  al. 
The  opprefiive  practice  of  thirlage  prevails,  and  hurts  their 
lands.  The  barony  of  Caftramont  is  thirled  to  the  mill  of 
Kelleren,  in  the  parifh  of  Anwoth  }  and  the  barony  of  Cally 
to  the  tnill  of  Burby,  in  this  parilh.     The  proprietor  has  eon- 

fidcrably 

9 


ef  Glrtbon.  ^i% 

fderablj  leifened  the  multares  of  the  mill  oti  his  own  eftate^ 
to  the  no  fmall  enconragementof  its  agricalture.  The  cotton 
works  eftablifhed  at  Gatehoufe,  have  much  advanced  the 
inrage^  of  &rm  fervants. 


Population. — ^As  no  regular  regifter  has  been  kept,  the  an* 
.cient  ftate  pf  the  population  cannot  be  afcertaiaed  precifely^ 
From  Dr.  Webfter's  report,  however,  we  are  certain,  that  it 
has  increafed  greatly  within  thefe  40  years,  even  excluding 
the  vaft  addition  made  to  it,  by  the  new  village  of  Gatehoufe« 
The  reft  of  the  pari(h  at  prefent  (1792)1  contains^ 

Males,     -     %%!'%  Weavers,        .  *  •        •      9 

FenuijMp    -    199$        Total, -580  hoopers,        -  -  -        .        i 

Tht  retnni  in  1755,  was     •    '367  Millers,        -  .  .        -        | 

■     '  ■  Dyer  and  apprentices.  -        -     4 

Increafe,    -    aJ3  Joiner  and  ditto,  -  •        •      4 

When  to  this  is  added  the  nnra*  Farmer^  about  -  »      •       200 

l^r  of  Ibpb  in  G?tchotti)e,  -  S15Q 

The  toul  increafe  is  1363 

Church  and  Poor.— The  living,  every  thing  included,  ts 
about  i2oI.  yearly.  The  manfe  was  built  a  conliderable  time 
ago,  and  is  in  a  very  uncomfortable  ftate.  The  church  is 
fnaall,  and,  from  its  fituation,  extremely  inconvenient  for  the 
bulk  of  the  inhabitants.  The  weekly  coUeftions,  fines  for 
irregularities,  &c.  amount  to  about  ijl.  a  year.  Paupers,  to 
the  number  of  10,  are  affifted  therewith. 

Gtnerat  Chara£ier. — Six  M'Millanites  excepted,  the  tenants 
and  cottagers  are  all  Prefltyterians.  Much  praife  is  due  to 
their  religious  and  moral  conduft.    A  circulation  of  good 

ofScers 


jl  f  Stati/Hcal  Account 

ioflces  takes  place  amongft  tbem:  Thej  are  orndid,  fober^  aal 
isduftrious :  They  afied  no  parade  of  fanAitj :  Thej  have 
nothing  of  ah  indtfcreet,  or  intokrant  zeal :  Firm  to  the  re» 
ligion  of  their  countrj^  ^*  thej  meddle  not  with  thi^e  that  arf 
••  giyen  to  change.** 

GATEHOUSE  OF  FLEET. 

Siimiion  and  Origm.^'SthiB  neat.aad  beantifnllj  fituatcd 
village  ftands  to  the  S.  W.  |of  the  pari(h»  on  the  banks  of  the 
Fleet.  Its  Increafe  has  jbeen  rapid.  Though  the  firft  honfe 
in  it  was  built  as  an  inn,  not  aSove  30  years  ago,  it  now  con« 
tains  upwards  of  160  houfes,  aqd  iZ5oinhabitant|».  The  cot^ 
ton  works,  which  have  fwelled  it  to  its  prefent  file  and  popu* 
lation,  promife  fodn  to  give  it  a  rank  among  the  towns  di& 
tinguiibed  for  induftry  and  comnierp^. 

Hottfes^  Rents,  i/r.— ^The  village  is  )ield  in  fea  £rom  Mrt 
Murray.  The  ground  fteads^  of  30  feet  in  fipont,  150  back» 
for  a  kitchen  garden,  paid,  till  within  thefe  few  years,  only 
IS.  annual  feu-duty  each.  Since  that  period,  they  pay  at  the 
rate  of  3d.  per  foot  in  front,  with  150  back.  The  bonfes  are 
built  of  brick,  or  of  whin-ftone,  and  are  moftly  2  flories  high. 
Owing  to  the  vaft  influx  of  inhabiunts,  they  l>ri^g  ^  S^^% 
rent.  A  houfe  of  3  ftories,  with  but  indifferent  convenience 
and  accommodation,  will  let  fo  high  as  30L  yearly.  The 
village  is  divided  into  3  ftreets,  which  rife  parallel  frqm  th^ 
river.  It  is  well  watered,  and  allowed  to  be  by  far  the  plea- 
fanteft  in  Galloway.  Though  its  induflry  has  kept  it  as  yet 
quiet,  a  burgh  police  is  certainly  neceffary  for  the  cftabliihing 
and  perpetuating  good  order.  It  is  matter  of  pleafute  to  the 
inhabitants,  that  the  fuperior  has  fignified,  that  his  attention 
ihall  fbon  be  turned  to  this  important  obje6l.  It  deferves  re- 
mark, 


of  Girtboni  313 

fidark,  that  there  is  not  a  lamp«poll  in  anj  of  its  (Ireets.  This, 
vrith  many  other  difadvantages,  would  be  attended  te,  and 
remedied,  by  feveral  refpeftaUe  inhabitaatSi  if « they  were  in- 
veiled  with  any  external  authority. 

/o«y  Road^  ^r.— *Belides  a  good  inn,  there  are  about  15 
Koufes  in  which  fpiritous  liquor^  are  fold.  The  road,  betwixt 
JDumfries  and  Portpatrick,  runs  through  this  village,  andmakes 
its  principal  inn  well  frequented.  Two  miiil  coaches  arrive 
here,  at  7  o'clock  every  morning,  one  from  Carlifle,  the  other 
ixom  Portpatrick. 

Bank,  Commerce^  Shippings  y^.— A.  Branch  of  the  Paifley 
Union  Bank  was  lately  eftabliflied  here,  ahd  tranfafis  bufineCi 
to  a  confiderable  amount.-.-The  right  of  a  weekly  market, 
-which  the  village  charter  gives,  has  not  yet  been  ufed.  The 
beft  frequented  markets  are,  for  eight  focceffive  Fridays,  after 
the  firft  Friday  of  winter  \  and  at  fom^  of  thefe  there  is  a  con- 
fiderable ihow  of  black  cattle*.  &!veral  vefiels,  of  80  tens  and 
under,  belong  to  this  port.  They  trade  chiefly  to  the  weft  of 
Scotland,  and  to  the  north  of  England.  One  of  them  trades 
conftantly  to  London.  The  commodities  imported  are,  ale, 
porter,  wine,  grocery  goods,  raw  hides,  tallow,  timber,  lime, 
cotton  wool,  coals,  &c.  Cotton  xnanu&&ureSf'  tanned  leather, 
^^Pf  g^iOf  potatoes,  &c.  are  exported. 

JldKaiuy/^^arrei.— Many  branches   of  commerce   thrive   in 

Gatehoufe.    It  has  a  tannery  and  foapery,  both  carried  on  to 

Vol.  XI.  R  r  a 


*  Butcher  meat  is  in  general  to  be  got  here.  Beef,  mutton,  veal,  and  pork,  fell 
from  3  id.  to  4id.  the  pound ;  butter,  at  6d.  the  pound ;  Scotch  checfe,  at  3d. 
the  poBttd :  The  pound  to  all  it  x6  os.    Meal  it  from  t^  7d.  t^  as.  the  ftone. 


314  Statijiical  Account 

ft  good  extent.  But  its  indutlry  is  principally  directed  fo  tb€ 
manufaSuring  of  cotton  wool.  Befides  about  50  mules  and 
jennies,  managed  bj  private  hands,  it  has  4  milb  in  conftaifC 
employment ;  and  will  probably  have  3  more  in  a  (hort  time. 
Of  thofe  built,  the  2  largeft  are  twift  mills  ;  the  2  others  are 
mule  mills.  The  mule  mills  are  3  (lories  high,  70  feet  by  20  ; 
have  about  130  mules  each,  which  give  employment  to  up^- 
wards  of  100  labourers.  The  largeft  of  the  twift  mills  is  4 
ftories  high,  110  feet  by  30;  and  employs  about. 300  labour- 
ers. The  other  twift  mill  is  3  ftories  high,  84  feet  by  32  ; 
and  is  not  yet  completely  fet  agoing.  There  is  alfo  a  cotton 
fadory,  in  which  are  wove  muflios,  and  other  cottonsi  of  neat 
patterns  and  good  fabric  *. 

Fuel. — Coals  are  the  general  fuel  here.  They  are  imported 
from  Whitehaven,  Newcaftle,  &c.  and  run  from  30s.  to  40s. 
the  ton.  Notwithftanding  the  extravagant  price  of  this  necef* 
fary  article,  the  inhabitants  are  often  in  abfolute  want.  This 
tends  to  hurt  the  manufaAures,  as  it  caufes  many  of  the  la- 
bourers to  remove ;  and  will,  when  known,  prevent  ftrangers 
from  fettling;.  Employers  would  therefore  confult  their  own 
intereft,  would  they  adopt  fomc  method  of  fuppljing  their 
workmen  conftantly,  and  upon  as  moderate  terms  as  poffiblc. 
The  duty  upcn  coals  was  a  frequent,  and  juft  caufc  of  com- 
plaint, which,  fmcc  the  commencement  of  this  account^  has 
been  hap^jily  removed. 

SclooL 

«  The  cotton  workcri  arc  paid,  fdme  by  the  day,  othen  by  the  poond,  others 
by  tl.c  piece.  A  picker  will  earn  I8.  prr  day  ;  a  carder  is.  2d, ;  a  fpinncr 
as.  6d.  One  male,  houfc,  or  fama  fcrvant,  has  from  7I,  to  9I  a  year;  a  female 
diti  >  from  3I.  to  4I.  Mal.ns  and  carpenters  have  from  is.  6d.  to  as.  per  day, 
without  meat ;  mjI^js  8d.  per  day,  with  mea't.  Shoemakers,  weavers,  &c.  ajQK 
paid  according  to  tlic  ^uauti:/  and  quality  of  their  work, 


of  Girtbon, 


Z^S 


SchooL^^Thert  is  one  fchool  here,  very  well  endowed.  It 
is  fubjed  of  regrety  however,  that  fo  large  a  pariih  has  only 
oii«.  Xhis  is  a  great  difadvantage  to  the  farmery  and  cottagers 
ohildren,  who  cannot  travel  as  far  as  Gatehoufe.  .  What  de- 
ferves  commendation  is^  that  the  fchoolmafter  has,  though 
urith  little  encourage  oent,  opened  a  Sunday  fchool,  for  the  in- 
ftruftion  of  fuch  children  as  are  obliged,  from  the  ftrattened 
circumftances  of  their  parents,  to  attend  the  cotton  mills  dur- 
ing the  reft  of  the  week. 

Population  and  fw/ZoyOTf/ir/.— At  Whitfunday  1792,  th« 
nunaber  and  profeiBons  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  village  itood 
as  follows ;  ^ 


Males, 
Females, 

Souls,      * 
MinUker, 
Surgeons, 
Schoolmafter, 
Writers, 

ExciTemeD,         • 
Shopkeepers, 
loflkeepers  and 
whilky  fellers, 
fakers. 


549  Carriers,        •  -    a 

60  X  Soap-boilers,  •        % 

—  ChaiTc-dnvers,  -      3 

ZZiO  Slaters,.       -  -       a 

X  Founders,        •  '   % 

Q.  Saddler,        •  -      Z 

X  Gfover,        -  -       I 

4  Butchers,        -  -    4 

3  Barber,        -  -       I 
X3  Stocking- weavers,    -  % 

Mafotts*,          -  %4 

-    13  Turners,        -  -     5 

4  Joiners,        -  -    ^4 


Smiths, 
Bricklayers, 
Tanners,' 
Shoemaliers, 
Tailors, 
Weavers, 
Ditto,  female, 
Ditto,  employed  in 

the  cotton  manu- 

fadory. 
People  employed  in 

the  cotton  works, 

in  general,  above  500 


17 

-    4 
17 

ro 

z 


%% 


CbaraSier  and  Manmrs. — As  the  mixture,  of  which  the 
population  of  Gatchoufe  is  compofcd,  has,  as  yet,  affumcd  no 

R  r  a  uniform 


•  Among  thcfe,  aod  aU  the  foUowiogprofeflioni,  joorneymen  vd  apprenticci 
arc  included. 


31$  Sfati/ikal  Account 

uniform  or  regular  appearance,  general  lineaments  cannot  be 
given  of  its  charafter  and  manners.  This,  however,  may  be 
fafelj  afferted,  of  the  inhabitants,  that  tbej  are  attentive,  and 
iadnftrious.  The  greater  part  of  them  are  Freib jterians ; 
And  even  thofe  of  them  who  belong  to  the  Church  of  Eng- 
land, whofe  moral  conduft  is  (bber  and  orderly  (having  no 
minifler  of  their  own  communion),  regularly  attend  the  efta* 
Uifhed  place  of  worihip ;  receive  the  (acramencs  as  difpenfed 
by  the  Church  of  Scotland  ;  walk  by  its  rules,  and  fubmit 
peaceably  to  its  difcipline. 


NUM^ 


of  Oxnam^  317 


[NUMBER    XXV, 


PARISH    OF    OXNAM. 

(fio9My  of  Roxhurgb^-'PreJbytery  of  JeSurgb — Synod  of 
Mtrfe  an4  iiviotdakJ) 


fy  the  Rev.  Mr.  John  Hunter,  Minifies 
[with  a  map  of  the  parish.] 


Origin  of  the  Name^  \Sc. 

IN  all  ancient  writings,  the  name  of  this  pari/h  is  fpelled 
Oxenham,  whereof  the  prefent  mode  of  fpelling  it  is 
an  abbreviation.  Several  names  in  the.  parifh  are  evident! j 
taken  from  animals,  and  mod  probably  from  thofe,  for  which 
the  various  places  have  been  moft  eminent :  As  Hindbope^ 
from  hind,  where  there  had  been  a  foreft  ;  Swinjide^  from 
fwine,  one  of  thefe  having  been  kept  in  many  places  bj  every 
cottager ;  Stotjield^  from  flot,  a  young  bullock  ;  Oxenbam, 
from  oxen  and  ham,  which,  in  the  Saxon  language,  fignifies  a 
hamlet  or  village.  The  names  of  many  other  places  defcribe 
and  ezprefs  their  local  fituations,  and  other  concomitant  cir- 
cumftancet.  Thus,  MiUbeugb,  the  heugh  by  the  mill  \  Mofs^ 
bum/ordf  through  which  the  burn  from  Scraefburgh  Mufs 

runs, 


3 1 5  Statlflical  Account 

runs,  and  where  paffengers  crofs  the  water  of  ^ed;  Bloody^ 
laWSf  a  riiing  ground,  where  much  blood  was  £bed  bj  the 
licentious  Borderers  ;  Pear/laws^  another  rifing  ground,  where 
perhaps  there  had  been  an  orchard  ;  Sec.  Plenderleitb^  Rtc-- 
ca/ton,  and  Dolphijlon^  are  moil  probably  the  names  of  their 
original  projirietors. 

Form,  Extent,  and  General  Appearance, ^^TYi^  figure  of  the 
parifli  bears  a  (Iriking  refemblance  to  that  of  Scotland.  The 
greateft  length,  from  the  head  of  Coquet  water,  on  the  £ng- 
lilh  border,  in  a  line  by  Swinfide,  to  Capehope,  a  farm  ilead 
on  the  N.  point  of  the  pariifa,  in  a  direction  N.  W.  f  N.,  is 
9f  Englifti  miles  ;  the  greatell  breadth,  in  a  perpendicular  di« 
le&ion,  from  Kaimburnfoot,  on  the  W.,  in  a  line  bjSwinfide, 
to  Conzierton  march  on  the  £„  is  4f  Englilh  miles  \  on  the 
N.  it  runs  nearly  to  a  point ;  and  about  ii  miles  from  the  S. 
end,,  it  is  only  2  miles  broad.  The  general  complexion  is 
rather  bleak,  interfperfed  with  beautiiul  green  hills,  fertile 
fields,  and  dark  heath  ;  and  almoft  uninclofed.  But  though 
it  is  hilly,  yet  there  are  no  hills  of  very  confiderable  magnitude. 

Climate,  Soil,  and  Difeafes. — The  country  is  damp,  and 
the  air  often  moid,  by  rains  from  all  diredions,  and  in  parti- 
cular from  the  £.  The  rains  ariiing  out  of  Solway  Frith,  on 
the  S.,  are  condu£ted,  as  it  were,  along  the  vale  of  Liddif- 
dale,  and  frequently  fall  in  great  quantities  on  the  adjoining 
fells,  whilft  they  fcarcely  touch  this  parifli.  The  foil  is  vari- 
ous, admitting  both  the  amufements  of  pafturage,  and  the  la- 
bours of  agriculture.  At  the  fame  time,  the  agreeable  inter- 
change of  hill,  dale,  and  ftreams  of  water,  gives  a  vibration  to. 
the  air  which  renders  it  healthy,  and  free  from  agues.  Certain 
it  is,  however,  that  rheumatifms,  confumptions,  and  nervou& 
fevers  are  pretty  frequent. 

Riveri 


'■'■'■■■'  '■■'■  n- 


pa  t 


320 


Statiftical  Account 


gronfe.  The  woodcock,  and  fieldfare  appear  in  the  beginning 
of  Odobcr,  and  remain  during  winter.  The  curlew,  the  greea. 
and  the  grej  plover,  come  in  March,  breed  in  the  moors,  and 
go  in  the  latter  end  of  harveft.  The  cuckoo,  fwallow,  dottrel, 
and  land  and  water  rail,  appear  in  Maj,  hatch  their  youngy 
and  then  dilappear* 


Population. — The  population  of  Oxnam  h^s  decreafed  with- 
in thefe  40  years  f. 

The  return  to  Dr.  Webfter,  in  the  year  1755,  was      -      760 
Theprefent  number  of  inhabitants  (April  1793),  is    «     690 


Decreafe, 


70 


Population  Table  of 

the  Parijb  of  OXNAM. 

Ages. 

N*   Tot. 

Emflotments,  &c.      Tot* 

Under  so  years  of  age,   - 

175 

Refident  heritors. 

% 

From  zo  to    ao, 

X»4 

Mininer  of  the  parifli. 

t 

aoto    30, 

103 

Students  io  divinity. 

S 

30  to   40, 

77 

3 

40  to   50, 

74 

Mafon, 

X 

50  to    60, 

44 

Smiths, 

3 

60  to    70, 

5» 

Weavers, 

5 

31 

Taylor, 

X 

9 

Apprentices, 

S 

r 

Day  labourers. 

x» 

690 

Male  labouring  ferrants,    - 

53 

Sexis. 

Female  ditto. 

33 

Males, 

a9S 

Tenants, 

*5 

females, 

3f» 

In  their  fabiilies. 

I0> 

690 

Herds, 

13 

Conditions. 

In  their  families, 

44 

Widowers  and  widows,     - 

47 

Wives,  children  and  friends 

Married, 

185 

of  tradeiincn,  cottagers. 

Bachelors, 

17 

&c.        -         . 

377 

Unaiarried, 

^^^^ 

" 

—  690 
Awrage 

t  This  decreafe  of  the  popalation  has  been  chieflf  occalioned  by  the  monopoly 

of' 


of  Oxnam.  32 1 

«  V  .  ••  •         1  .  .  ^ 

HiTchge  of  births*,  for  the  laft  ro  years,  -             «•             •            15 

!■■                 marriages,    .      .  -    .         -  -            •            *•            •           5 

— —  produce  of  each  t>     -  -     -     "     •     7 

■       of  deaths  |,     -     -  -     -     --6 

Villages. — OxKAM  was  once  large  and  populous ;  but,  at 
prefont^  there  are  hardly  cottagers  in  it  fufficient  for  the  pro- 
per culture  of  the  land,'  and  only  4  tradefmen.  NewSiggin^ 
has  been  pofTefTed  by  pdrtioners,  wha  bold  of  the  Marquis 
6£  LothiaOff  fince  161  i.  The  fote  property  of  it,  how- 
ever, falls  to  his  Lordfliip'  at  Martinnfias  18159  according  to 
the  decifioix  of  Lord  Juftice  Clejk,  to  whom  it  was  referred 
}ry  both  pardesJ  Swinfide^  Dolphi/lon^  and  Mofsburnfird^ 
ist  inconfidefable  villages. 

Churchy  lie. — The  church  was  built  in  1738,  has  undergone 

confiderable  altefatTbns,  and  is  in  pretty  good  repair  §•     T£ie 

Vol.  XI;  S  s  manfe 

of  farms.  Not  to  mnkiply  inftances,  in  the  village  of  Oznam,  hetween  4o  and 
70  years  ago,  there  were  %%  tenants,  who  kept  about  16  ploughs,  drawn  by  % 
ozfen  and  %  horfes,  driven  by  a  boy ;  whereas  now,  3  perfons  occnpy  the  whole, 
and  have  only  7  ploughs,  drawn  by  9  Eorfes. 

*The  pfriih  regifter  was  accurately  kept,  from  1700  to  1710,  during 
irhich,  the  births  amounted  to  398,  annual  average  40  nearly.  Since  that  pe- 
riod, the  regiiler  has  not  been  fu  accurate ;  occafioned,  chiefly,  by  the  ne^leA 
cf  parents  to  fave  a  very  trifling  ezpence.  Within  the  laft  10  years,  the  annual 
a^age  of  births  has  h6tn  about  ts,  of  which  only  xo  are  ^gi&d-edl 

f  TBere  is  an  inftance  of  one  marriage  producing  a»  births,  and  of  %  mar- 
riages oat  of  theie,  producing  each  jj. 

%  paring  the  above  period,  the  mortdoth  has  been  ufed  Z07  times,  99  of 
lAiich  were  for  interments  in  this  chdrch-yard.  There  is  a'ftboe  in  the  church- 
yard, bearing  the  ages  of  a  father  and  mother,  a  fons,  a  daoghter-in-law,  and 
3" grandchildren,  amoanting  to  6 J 8,  aver^  77  years;  the  oldeil  of  whom  was 
^,  and  the  youngeft  70. 

{  There  is  a  remarkably  diftinift  echo  from  the  church  to  a  (mall  eminence, 
tyo  yards  diredlly  £,  of  it,  in  th%  lerel  of  tiie  gallery. 


322  Statj/fical  Aecoit^ 

manfe  was  built  much  ab6ut  dife  btne  time,  and  lab  oftdr* 
been  repaired  at  a  great  expence.  'thn  Crown  and  the  Marquis' 
of  Lothian  both  gare  prefentaddnt  lo  ^ach  of  the  4  laft  mini- 
fters.  The  living  confifts  of  30  bdls  of  barley,  ai  bolls  i  firlot 
ll  (tone  of  oatmeal,  Tiviotdale  meafuref,  and  30I.  as.  a  Ad- 
Sterling  ita  money  *•  The  glebe,  meafuring  la  EngUfh  acres, 
is  worth  about  r4L  There  are  a  church-yards,  one  at  the 
kirk,  and  one  at  Plenderleith,  about  4  miles  S.  of  it  ^  where, 
in  all  pro)iability,  there  has  been  arefiding  vicar.  The  mini-' 
Her  has  alfo  the  privilege  of  tutf,  alternately,  from  3  ftock 
farms  belonging  to  the  Marquis  of  Lothian.  A  confiderable 
proportion  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  parifli  are  connefted' 
with  the  diOfeuting  meetings  in  Jedburgh.' 

School. — The  fcholmafter's  (alary  is  5I;  lis.  i}d.,  and  he' 
has  4L  3s.  4d.,  intereft  of  money  mortified  by  Lady  Yefter, 
for  teaching  poor  children ;  4!.  x^s.  for  ooUefting  poor's  rates  i 
and,  being  clerk  to  the  feffion  and  heritors,  4d.  for  every  re- 
giOration  and  extra£l,  and  zs.  6d«  for  each  proclamation.  The 
fchool  is  in  general  well  attended.  The  wages  are,  is.  per 
quarter  for  Engliih,  is.  6d.  for  Englilh  and  writing,  and  as« 
6d.  for  arithooietic.  The  higher  branches  are  tauj^ht  by  agree* 
ment.  The  above  is  the  minimum  legal  (alary  of  Scotland, 
and  the  fchool  wages  are  flill  the  original  appointment.  As 
the  value  of  money  is  now  fo  much  funk,  and  as  the  wages  of 
all  the  other  daffes  are  greatly  increafed,  an  augmentation  of  the 

fchoolmafter-a 

*  The  Tiviotdale  boU  of  barley  ii  5  flrlots,  and  of  meal  i4  done. 

t  Befides  the  above  Ripend,  the  former  miniften  let  in  leafe  to  th^  Doke  of 
Roxburgh,  during  their  refpedive  incambenciei,  the  Ticarage  tithei  of  three 
fiock  farms,  now  let  at  loool.,  for  a  graiTum  of  loool.  Scotch,  and  an  juAj 
leu-daty  of  looL  Scotch.  His  Grace,  wiihing  to  convert  the  graflum  and  tent 
into  VI  yearly  ftipcnd,  took  no  leafe  from  the  prefent  incurobeat ;  and,  it  bein^  • 
a  point  of  law,  it  is  bow  depending  before  the  Court  of  Seffion* 


IdioclmaAers  falaries^  an4  fchool  feesy  (eejogis  to  be  indif- 
ipenlibly  oeceflfarj. 

-t 

PooTwr^lvk  coafeqneaoe  of  s  legal  iatimation  of  10  free 
daj8«  the  heritors,  tenants^  and  kirk«(eiSon  hold  meetings 
about  the  terma  of  Candlemas,  Whitfiuiiday,  Lammaa  and 
Martinmas.  Upon  the  daj  of  meeting  thej  choofe  a  prefes  ; 
after  which  their  clerk  reads  the  minutes  of  laft  federunt, 
Tvhen  they  proceed  to  the  roll  of  the  poor,  confider  their  cir« 
cnmftances  individually,  and  appoint  them  correfponding  ali« 
ments.  This  inrolled  poor  amount  to  24  ;  and  the  quarterly  af* 
ieflment  for  their  relief  is,  at  prefent,  about  X9].,  being  of  lata 
greatly  increafe^,  by  the  high  prices  of  provifioas,  as  well  as 
by  the  advanced  age,  and  growing  infirmities  of  moft  of  them* 
The  higheft  yearly  allowance  for  a  fingle  perfon  is  4  guineas, 
and  for  a  frail  old  couple  61.  9s,  9ut  when  any  perfon  is  fo 
circnmftanced  at  to  require  a  nurfe,  the  heritors  provide  one* 
In  order  to  their  enrphneat  they  ppuft  give  inventories  of  their 
cffeAs,  which  become  the  legal  piroperty  of  the  heritors,  and 
are  expofed  to  fale  at  their  death.  The  heritors,  fteadily  and 
uniformly,  infill  upon  having  thefe  inv^toriesi^  both  for  en* 
livening  their  own  induftry,  and  for  fiimulating  their  children 
and  near  gelations  to  give  them  aid.  It  is  much  to  be  regret- 
^,  that  a  tafte  for  finery,  inconfiftent  with  their  fiation,  pre- 
vents many  from  relieving  their  aged  and  indigent  parents, 
and  other  near  relations,  ai^d  expofes  .them  to  want,  upon  the 
approach  of  ficknels  or  old  age ;  whik,  at  th^  fame  time,  ic 
deprives  them  of  a  luxury,  far  fupcrior  to  that  of  fuperfluous 
ornament,  the  coBUKX  FLEAsyaE  of  difpeljing  grief,  and 
fOMMUVicXxiyo  HAPPINXSS.  The  afleflment  is  divided  a- 
mongft  the  heritors,  according  to  their  valued  rents ;  and  the 
proportion  which  falls  to  each  is  paid,  one  half  by  the  pro* 

S  8  a  prietor 


324  Statifi'kal  Accwnt 

prietor  bimfelfy  and  the  other  bj  his  tenants.  In  propor^on  t<^ 
their  real  rents*. 

Heritors  and  i?^«tf.— There  are  7  heritors ;  but  only  a  re- 
fide.  The  valued  rent  of  the  pariih  is  i4,ioiL  los.  8d.  Scotch, 
and  the  real  rent  about  31679].  Sterling.  The  yearly  rent  oC 
the  arable  land  is  from  los.  to  upwards  of  aos.  per  acre,  and 
of  ftock  land  from  33.  to  3s.  6d.  per  acre.  Farms  are  rented 
from  4oU  to  about  6ool.  per  annum.  Two  confiderable  ftock 
&rms  are  poffefled  by  tenants,  who  do  not  refide. 

Produce^  CattU^  Provi/ionSf  gtc. — ^The  pariih  contains  fuUj 
10,500  Englifli  acres  f,  which  are  laid  out,  nearly,  in  the 
following  manner : 

STAT£  or  AGRICULTURE  IN  SPRING  I793. 

£mg.  Acres.  £^.  Aertf* 

In  wheat,       -         •         -        Xs^  Brought  forward,      1,685 

—  oats,        -       -        -       -     8ao        In  pafture,       .       ,        -     28,8x{ 

—  barley,        .         -  -        aio  ■ 

—  peafe,        .        -        -        •    140  Tota!,    -     •     20,500 

—  turnips,         -         -        -         X40 

—  pOtatQCS,  -  -  •  3^  MVMBSR  OF  CATTLt. 

—  flax,        -        -        -        -        14        Horfes,        -        -        -        -r      l6x 

—  fown  graii,        -        -        -    146        Cows,  &c.        -  -         -        449 

—  firs,        -        -        -        -       140        Sheep,  about         -         -         15,000 

Carry  forward,      -        1,685 

PRICES 

♦  Pame  Margaret  K;err,  La4y  YcAer,  by  her  letters  af  mortification,  date4 
4th  November  1630,  aod  14th  March  1638,  caufed  to  be  built  a  fchool,  and  a 
fchoolmafter's  houre,  at  Oznani  bridge  end,  and  little  dwelling  houfcs,  for  ac- 
commodatiDg  4  poor  people,  commonly  called  alms  houfes^  at  Oxnam  Rawfoot ; 
and  hkewife  mortified  loool.  Scotch,  the  annual  rent  of  which  being  4I.  38.  4d.J 
together  with  the  weekly  coUcdions,  isdiibibuted,  in  i^naU  proportions,  amongl|^ 
&ch  ind^cnt  poor  as  are  not  on  the  roll. 

f  There  is  no  map  of  the  pariih,  diftind  from  Mr.  Stobie's  of  the  county  ; 
but  all  the  heritors,  except  one,  have  accurate  plans  of  their  cftates. 

)  The  above  calculations  were  made  from  the  quantity  of  feeds  fown,  in  the 

following 


£/*  OxnanL 


32| 


f  RICES  OF  GRAIN  AND  CATTLE. 


^Vfcett,  per  boll,  of  4  firlots, 
pats,  per  ditto,  of  5  ditto, 
B  vley,  per  ditto,  of  5  ditto, 
Peafe,  per  ditto,  of  4  ditto, 
Tomipi,  per  Eoglifli  acre. 
Potatoes,  per  boll,  of  5  firlott,     .  - 
FlM,perftone,of  a4ib^ 
Calves,  tmfed,  -         ,         , 

Ditto,  fometimet  fed  to 
Bbck  cattle,  year-olds,         ^ 
bitto,  two-year-olds, 
Pitto,  three-ycar-olds, 
iVedders  ditto, 
PittOf  two-year-olds, 

Praughe  ewes,         ?  < 

*       Z  '       ■  iip 


/«  1763.        /«  179^. 


X  o 
o  »3 
o  13 
o  x6 


o  10 

o    7 

O  10 


/.  *. 

z  10 

0  15 

1  o 
I  4 
3  o 
o  7 
o  xz 

o    S 

%  to 

1 18 

S  IQ 
z  o 
o  x6 
o  1% 
•  li 


^aicit  or  WOOL,  chiise,  &c. 


)Vhite  wool;  pef  ftofie,  of  »4  lb.  Troy, 

Jt'id  ditto,  per  ditto, 

fewe  cheefe,        per  ditto, 

Cow  ditto,         -        - 

Butter,  in  firMns,  per  ditto,         -         • 

^rcih  batter,  per  iUoe,  of  H  ^«  P^  lb*» 


o  zz 

o    5 

o    4 

o    7 
o    6 


♦o  Z9 
o  7 
o  5 
o  z» 
o  xo 


Cultivation. 


foUowbg  maimer :  |t  was  fnppofied,  that  4  firlott  of  oats  were  Town  on  each 
^QgUfli  acre :  The  wheat  and  peafe  were  proportioned  as  6  of  oats  to  4  ;  and 
the  barley  as  10  of  oats  to  7  :  8^  fiilots  of  potatoes  plant  an  acre ;  and  Z9  lip- 
pies  of  liotfeed  may  be  fown  on  the  iame  qaantity  of  ground* 

«  «  To  prevent  confiifion  in  the  table,  the  higheft  prices  of  wool  are  here 
ftated.  White  wool  fomctitres  fold  at  aos.,  in  Z79S,  and  laid  wool  fometimei 
fo  low  If  x6s^— Wool  is  fuppofed  to  drop  coniidcrably  this  cUp^  Z793« 


J 


326  Statical  Account 

Cu&ivatioH^^liht  upper  part  of  the  parifli,  towards  the 
Englifii  Border,  is  found  healthy  dock  land,  but  very  ftormy  ^ 
the  hills  being  high,  and  the  vallejs  deep  and  narrow.     The 
hills  are'  moftlj  green  and  fertile,  with  an  intermixture  of 
heath,  mols,  bent,  ling,  fprat,  Sec. ;  parti/  drj,  and  partly  wet 
and  marflij-     The  arable  land,  in  this  part  of  the  parilh,  is 
almoft  wholly  laid  into  grab.     Towards  the  middle  of  the 
parifh  they  raife  rather  more  com  ^  but  their  principal  de- 
pendence is  upon  ftock.     The  land  is  inferior  in  quality,  but 
not  fo  ftormy,  as  the  Border  hills.     On  the  lower  end  of  the 
parifb,  they  depend  more  upon  their  crops  than  upon  their 
flocks.    Three  (mall  farms  in  this  part  of  the  parifh  keep  no 
iheep  at  prefent. 

Improvtments. — ^The  ftock  land  has  bfeen  muah  improved 
of  late,  by  draining  the  wet  and  marihy  grounds  i  by  plant- 
ing clumps  of  firs,  for  ^elis  to  (helter  the  flocks  in  ftorms  i 
snd  by  inclofiiig  fome  part  of  the  lands  contiguous  to  the  farm 
houfes,  for  hay  to  the  (beep  in  lievere  winters  and  fprings. 
For  a  nuinber  of  years,  excellent  crops  of  turnips  have  been 
raifed  on  the  lower  end  of  the  parifh,  to  which  the  foil,  wbici| 
is  dry  and  gravelly,  is  well  adapted.  The  lime  ufed  for  thefe^ 
and  for  wheat,  is  brought,  both  frpm  Tillfide  on  the  £.^  and 
from  Redwater  on  the  S.  A  cart  load,  of  5  bolls,  cofts  iis.  i 
and  5  loads  are  commonly  fpread  upon  an  Englilh  acre.  The 
general  pradice  is  to  allow  the  fheep  to  cat  them  upon  the 
field*  Throughout  tlie  whole  parifli,  potatoes  are  raifed  in  fuch 
quantities,  as  to  become  the  principal  food  of  the  lower  ranks 
of  life  for  8  months  in  the  year.  They  are  alfo  ufed  in  feeding 
fwine,  horfesi  poultry,  ficc.  afid  fome  are  fold  to  the  people  oa 
the  fells, 

Sheep^ 


of  Oxnam.  327 

Sbup  Sec— On  the  upper  end  of  this,  and  of  the  neighbour- 
ing pariibes  bordering  on  Northumberland,  the  flieep  haye  been 
greatlj  improved  of  late,  in  fhape,  in  weight,  and  in  qualitj  of' 
\¥ool.    This  has  been  eSefted,  partlj,  by  purchafing  tups 
from  Northumberland,  and  other  counties  in  England,  or  bj 
purchafing  from,  and  exchanging  them  with  each  other  ;  and 
partly,  bj  adopting  a  different  mode  of  breeding  their  tups* 
The  farmers  of  the  laft  generation  took  thcfir  tups  dut  of  the 
whole  flock,  when  thej  cut  their  lambs  ;  whereas  now,  they 
feled  a  few  of  their  beft  ewes,  and  fuch  as  have  the  fioeft  fleece,' 
which  they  keep  apart  from  the  reft  of  the  flock,  during  the 
^pping  feafon,  with  a  good  fibe  woolled  tup,  procured  as  above ; 
and  out  of  the  lambs  bred  from  thefe,  they  cb<x>fe  their  tup 
hmbs.^-There  b  a  good  breed  of  horfes  in  the  parifli,  and' 
diaoy  prefer  them,  with  a  little  blood,,  for  long  carriages. 

Commerce, — ^The  produce  of  the  lands  far  exceeds  the  con« 
ibmption  of  the  inhabitants;  Part  of  the  redundancy  is  fold 
at  Jedbufgh,*  and  part  is  manufafiured  at  the  mills  of  Swin« 
tide  and  Oxnam,  and  carried  over  the  fells  to  the  ftockfmea 
and  their  herds.  A  gteat  quantity  of  cbeefe,  of  butter,  and 
of  veal  is  fold  at  Jedburgh ;  the  eggs  are  carried  weekly  to 
Berwick,  and  the  poultiy,  both  there  aitd  to  Edinburgh,  by 
perfon^  who  return  loaded  with  lalt,  groceries,  and  other  com« 
ihodities,  fbt  fupplying  the  inhabitants,  and  merchants  in  Jed^ 
burgh. 

Seed'timi  and  JEEurv^^— -Wheat  is  fown  from  the  o^dle 
to  the  clofe  of  Odober ;  oats,  peafe,  and  flax,  from  the  xoth 
61  March  to  the  middle  of  April;  barley,  rye-grals  and  clover^ 
from  the  middle  of  April  to  that  of  May;  potatoes  are  put  in- 
to the  ground  during  the  fiime  period;  and  turnips  are  drilled 
during  the  conrfe  of  June  and  to  the  middle  of  July.    The 

harveft 


^2%  Stati/Kcal  Attouiii 

hanreft  beginSy  for  the  mod  part*  with  S^ptetnber ;  the  dbm 
16  all  cut  in  20  or  ii  working  days ;  and,  in  5  or  6  after,  if 
is  generally  feciired  in  the  barns,  and  barn-jards,  except  when 
the  feafons  prove  cold  and  wet. 

ImpUmtnti  of  Hujbandry. — ^There  are  '41  ploughs  and  53 
iarts  in  the  pariffa.  The  old  Scotch  plough  is  entirely  laid 
afide,  and  the  new  conftru&ion,  with  metal  mould  boards,  oni- 
verfally  adopted.  Two  ilout  horfes,  driven  by  the  plough** 
nan,  are  quite  fufficient,  except  in  a  few  inlt^ances,  where  jp 
faorfes  are  ufed,  and  a  driver.  Carts,  of  a  light  mike,  on 
wheels  4  feet  8  inches  high,  commonly  ftajed  with  iron  at 
each  comer,  are  ufed  for  coal  and  lime ;  and  the  loa^f  cart 
with  rung  and  iheth,  for  com,  peat  and  tttrf  ^: 

K^^^/.— Tradefmen  are  paid  as  follows  : 

Joinen mceive  per  day,  without  Ttduals,  *             -»             h,o    l    6 

Mafons,           -           -            «           -  -           -           -ox  10 

Tailors,            -            -            •            -  -            -            -01     » 

JLabonrert,  ito  fummer,            -            -  -^           -           .           0x4' 

■  I  ■  ■  ■  in  winter,  •-  •  ■  •  •  ox  a' 
A  man,  in  harreft,  receitret,  till  the  crop  be  cut,  with  Tiduali,'      -      X     7    o 

And  a  woman,  daring  the  fanie  period,  -           -           .          i    x    o 

Male  fenrantf,  per  annum,  with  board,  ^    \. 

J  from  -  •       3  10    o* 

to  •  -  4x0    * 


Female  ditto,  ditto, 


Cottagers  are  taken  bound  to  weed  turnips,  and  make 
h%j  t%  days,  at  3d.  per  day,  with  their  maintenance,  and' 

to 


*  Before  the  iotrodtt&i6n  of  carta,  a  clnmfy  unweildy  carriage*  upon  %  wheek,' 
drawn  by  %  oxen,  and  a,  or  fometimet  4,  horfes,  called  a  vfaim,  was  ufed  merely 
i'or  dragging  dang  to  tlie  fields,  and  bnogtog  bomc  com,  hay  and  wood. 


6f  Oxnani.  329 

to  reap  in  harvcft  without  receiving  any  thing  but  their 
bbard ;  for  which  they  pcfiefs  a  honfe  and  yard,  have  one 
or  two  dargs  of  turf  or  peat,  which  their  mafters  bring 
home,  and  give  them  as  muk:h  ground  as  the  alhes  will 
cover  for  fowing  barley.  They  have  like  wife  tw©  lippies 
of  lint-feed  fown,  and  half  a  firlot  of  potatoes  planted. 
Their  crop»  when  it  is  good,  conflitutes  a  great  part  of 
their  living  throughout  the  year;  and,  in  that  cafe,  their 
houGes  coft  them  little.  Hiiids  receive  S  bolls  of  oats,  2  bolls 
of  barley,  I  boll  of  pefafe,  a  cow's  grafs,  and  il.  5s.  for  fheep,* 
ds  the  wages  of  their  own  labour  j;  s^nd  are  bpuiid  to  the  fame 
fervitude  with  a  cottager  for  theif  hoHiTes,  lint,  potatoes,  Sec 
The  wages  of  herds  are  coniiderably  higher  than  thofe  of  hinds, 
and  differ  according  to  the  extent  o^^  their  charge.  They  are 
J>aid  with  iheep,  and  cows,  which  rjcquire  a  ftock  at  beginning/ 
and  fubjed  them  to  frequent  loffes. 

Antiquitxei^^^Tht  only  remains  of  antiquity  are,  a  chapel 
at  Plenderleith,  3  old  forts,  and  a  Roman  caufeway.  The 
chief  fortification  is  a  tower  at  Dolphiflon,  faid  to  have  beep 
built  by  one  D'olpaus,  from  whom  it  took  its  name.  The 
walls  are  from  8  to  10  fee^  thick,  bui(t  of  hewn  ft6ne,  and  fo 
elofely  cemented  with  lime,  that  it  is  found!  more  difficult  to 
obtam  fiones  for  building  from  it,  than  from  a  quarry.  It 
has  been  estenfive,  and  divided  into  fmall  apartmeitts  by  ftone 
partitions.  Several  vaulted  apertures  are  in  the  middle  of 
the  walls,  large  enough  for  a  fmall  bed,  and  fome  of  them  fo 
long,  as  to  be  ufed  by  the  tenants  for  holding  their  ladders* 
On  a  rifing  ground,  a  little  to  the  S*-  there  is  an  area  of  a 
chain  fquare,  which  is  faid  to  have  been  a  watch  tower  or 
light  hotife,  and  ihows  that  Dolphifton  Yower  had  been  ufed 
as  a  fort,  or  place  of  refuge.  The  tower  on  Mofsburnford 
ground,  N.  from  Dolphifton,  which  is  nearly  entire,  is  built  and 
Vol*  XL  Tt  divided 


3  3  o  Statiftical  Account 

divided  in  the  lame  maimer,  bat  far  inferior  in  flrength*.  The 
Roman  road,  or  canfewaj,,45  the  eaftem  boundary  of  the  parifli^ 
and  runs  the  whole  length  of  itf.    This  ftrect  has  been  traced 

to 

•  *  The  Ckag  Towtk  was  Imilt  on  a  rock  of  base  emiDencCy  oa  die  E.  fi^e 
of  Oxnam  water,  about  500  yards  W.  of  the  church.  Within  thefie  to  yeart, 
it  wai  a  place  of  the  fame  conllnidUon  with  thofe  already  mentioned,  hut  modi 
Wronger  from  iti  natural  fituation,  heing  furronnded  with  water  os  three  fideb 
In  the  memory  of  many  now  living,  there  was  a  pit  in  the  middle  of  it,  which 
tt  faid  to  have  heen  a  road  cntthroogb  the  rock  to  the -water,  by  ^ndiidi  it  wia 
fuppUed  when  bdicgcd*  It  it  alTo  faid  to  haiprbeen  furronnded  on  iheacc^hle 
iidc,  with  a  flrong  wall,  within  which  the  iohahitants  of  the  netghboorfaood 
iifed  to  (hut  up  their  cattle,  to  prcTcnt  the  plunderen  from  carrying  them  off  is 
the  night.  Anciently,  the  nppoiite  bank  of  Osmam  water,  00  the  W^  was  co- 
vered with  wood^deoominaxed  httnutod^  and  it  fcid  to  have  bees  the  rendesvout 
of  the  inhabitant*,  to  oppofe  the  £ngli(h  freebooten,  when  the  watch  word  was, 
a  hemwQody^  A  quarter  of  a  mik  to  the  W^  on  Millheagh^&rm,  theffe  is  a  hil* 
lock,  called  Gallala«Kk9w,  which  it  iaid  to  have  been  ufed  in  the  Border 
wars  at  a  place  of  eiccution.  Many  buildtngi,  flmttar  to  thofe  deCcrihed,  are 
icattered  over  the  country,  efpcctally  on  th(  fiorderi  which  wore  ea&d  ^ca&.— 
There  it  a  tradition,  that,  dnring  the  animofitiet  between  the  twokingdomi^  one 
of  the  principal  belli,  now  upon  the  cathedral  of  Durham,  wat  carried  from  this 
parifh.  Certain  it  is,  that  Oxmam  is  iafcrihod  upon  it ;  but  whether  it  he  the 
name  of  this  parish,  or  of  the  founder,  it  not  determined.  Some  are  of  opi- 
nion, that  as  Oinam  wa»  fub}ed  to  the  abbacy  of  Jedburgh,  the  Crag  Tower 
might  be  a  reUgiotit  honfe,  and  the  bell  it  faid  to  have  been  bung  upon  it. 
Before  the  onion  of  England  and  Scotland,  which  fcem  dciUned^by  their  fitna. 
tion  to  conftitute  a  mighty  monarchy,  among  the  military  and  twrtmlent  Bor^ 
derers,  fo  little  acquainted  with  the  arts  of  peace,  and  fo  averfe  to  indoftry  and 
labour,  juflice  was  feebly, irregularly,  and  parCiaBy  adminiftered;  and  great op- 
prcfiion  and  vtoleiKe  prevailed,  when  rapine  was  the  only  trade,  and  bloodflied 
often  kd  the  way  to  the  fvccefefal  profecution  of  it.  By  the  interpofal  of  iht 
authority  of  both  houfe«  of  parliament,  the  reij^n  of  good  lavi  n  efiablifbed, 
tending,  in  an  eminent  •  .rce,  to  form  habits  of  order,  iodudry,  and  virtue,  to 
iflcreafe  the  hapj^iaefs  of  individuaU,  to  promote  national  prefpeiity,  and  to  in* 
f  roduce  a  ta<>e  for  general  improvemem,  throughout  this,  as  well  as  other  parts 
ti  t|^e  kingdom. 

f  A  number  of  years  ago,  in  a  fiild  belonging  to  Cap-hope,  on  the  R  point 

of 


of  Oxncm.  3  3 1 

to  Borougbbridgc  in  Yorkflilre,  and  has  its  direftion  to  the 
Lothiaos  by  Bofweps  Green,  where  oar  of  the  largelt  fairs  ia 
Scotlmnd  is  anniullj  beld«  on  the  z3tb  of  Julj^ 

£0a/£f^-^Forfnerly,  the  ftatulc  labour,  for  county  roadi, 
from  2o  to  22  feet  broad,  wa3  levied  from  the  number  of  men 
attdhoffesy  •^f  .lftt«<at  is.  for  *a  <aisiiH  and  is.  6d.  for  a  horfe. 
In  cottfequence  of  ^n  applitratton  froil>  the  gentiemeu  of  this 
county,  a  few  years  ago,  an  aift  of  parliament  was  granted  to 
colled  it  from  the  tenants  according  to  theic  valued  reptt>,  but 
HOC  to  eaccft^.  10s,  Starting  Afji^ap  itlie  ioqU  Scotch^  The 
conoty  is  dmded  into  ftttK  diAri^a,  JfdbUrgb^K^yh^  Hataick^ 
and  Melro/e^  tii^  each  of  them  has  a  conftable  for  iufpe^ing 
the  roads,  and  for  feizing  vagrants.  Thongh  thefe  do  not  all 
collea  to.  the  full  .auaoiiut  fjpecifieii  iu  .tjh<j  a0,  y^t  i%  is,  found 
ncQcfiary.  ta^da  i»  in  tht9}diitei#  fof  JH^urgh,  pn  apcoont  of 
its  bcaog  inteffefled  by  fewer,  public  roadsi  h,  road  is  novf 
making,  from  WooiinJ)Urn  Bridge^  in  the  parilh  of  Crailing, 
and  Kaimbumfoot  in  this  parli]},  coni^eft'bg  J^hc  great,  turn* 
pike  .roads  from  Kclfo .  tp.  ^fawipfe,.  j»d.iJrQm  iuliuburgh,  by 
Jedbar^,  t#Na«m4te«  in  «rd4r404«onip)eteat  Speedily,  fome 
pttbiio  fpirited  %i^a^miH  Htfv^  t^keti  o^t  a  CAJh  ajccountj  to 
be  paid  off  every  half  year  w!th  the.ftatute  money.  Atten- 
tion has  alfo  been  ^id  to  other.  roa4s  .in  th.e  parifb,  whereby 
Ml.   ■'    •    .1.    .   n       "  ; 'JTJ;!-..  w..  ,'        'communication 

,  of  the  pariih,  coptigowM  U>  t]i«  X9^^  a  Ji«a4  piece  of  plate  irpn,  fuppofed  to  b^ 
Romao,  wai  tutaed  up  by  the  plough,  and  is  \n  the  poficirioo  of  the  prcicnt 
tenanL  It  weight. «)U>«  Mroirdupotfe;  and,  ■Ji-.hough  a  little  willed,  could 
sever  nceigh  »ib»  •  lu  tmo^  ji  an  oval  «f  ?  *  9  ifiches  hf  6 « 9,  withoDt  any 
edgci,  only,  bent  /or^ard  ab<Htt  baif  9^  ifich^  b<;^re  and  cm  the  iidc*  VX^  the 
brim  oC  a  pat.  It  u  5  .  ^inchei  deop,  and  the  top  is  a  very  flat  Gothic  arch, 
10.  a  inches  long,  jutted  out  befurc  and  bchiod.  It  is  evidciuly  hammered, 
but  has  not  the  fmallcft  appearance  of  any  joining.  In  autumn  1 791 ,  a  ftiJlUng 
of  HoBiaT  BaucB  was  found  at  a  garden  in  Ncwbigging,  and  was-  UM  ta 
Cjtoaoc  Cvaai^,  Efq.  adrocaie. 


33^  Stati/iical  Afcotmt 

comtaunication  is  greatlj  facilitated.  Not  long  ago»  fmalt 
coal  was  brought  from  Rjecbefter»  and  great  coal  from  Ital, 
.on  horfeback,  but  tbejr  a,re  now  brought  ia  carts,  which  have 
been  univerfajly  ^dop,ted  fipcc  jthe  bettering  of  the  roads. 

Lijadvantaget. — One  of  the  chief  difadvantagec,  the  greateft 
part  of  this  parifh  labours  under,  is  its  diftance  from  coaI« 
which  is  ililli  notwithftanding,  the  cheapeft  iyxt\  to  thofe  who 
have  horfesy  but  which  poor  people  cannot  afford  topurchaf«. 
A  two-horfe  cart-load  of  coal,  f^om  Ryechefter,  cofts  lis.  6d.y 
and  ODc  from  Ital  coQs  about  148.  6d.  Though  this  parifli 
abounds  in  excellent  peats  and  turf^  yet  the  moft  populous 
parts  have  no  claim  to  them,  and  are  but  fcaatily  fupplied 
with  turf,  of  far  inferior  quality,  f;rom  a  moor,  once  common, 
and  which  ftill  goes  by  that  name.  Another  growing  di(ad* 
vantage  is,  the  depopulation  of  the  parifh,  by  fuffuring  the 
cottage  houfes  to  fall  into  decay ;  whereby  the  country  is  de« 
prived  of  many  ufeful  members  of  fociety,  and  the  tenant  of 
aid  for  carrying  on  his  laboursy  efpecially  in  harye^»  when  he 
is  overtaken  by  Ilorms,  particularly  of  wind,  which  often  do 
great  and  irreparable  damage  to  the  valuable  produdions  of 
the  yean 

General  CharaBer^^^The  people  are  induflrious,  fober*  and 
economical,  and  feem  to  have  no  inclination  either  for  a  mili- 
tary or  a  feafarin^  life.  They  are  friendly  to  one  another, 
and  hofpitable  to  ftrangers.  The  labouring  part  fuppott  their 
families  in  a  very  Recent  manner,  and  give  their  children  a 
tolerable  education.  Even  in  1783,  when  the  penfions  of  the 
poor  were  doubled  by  the  failure  of  crop  1782,  no  fiamily  in 
the  parifli  folicite^  relief  from  the  heritorsi  nor  were  fupplied 
with  provifions^  at  reduced  prices,  as  was  tjie  cafe  in  many 
other  parilhes. 

*      "''  NUMBER 


of  Rofcmarkie.  jjj 

NUMBER    XXVI. 
PARISH    OF    ROSEMARKIE. 

(JCounty  and   Synod  of  Rofs-^PnJbytery   of    Cbanonry.^ 
By  the  Rev.  Mr.  Alexander  Wood,  Minifler^ 


Name  and  Extent, 


THE  Dame  of  this  pariih  was  anciently  Tpelled  Rojfmarhie^ 
and  fometioies  Rofemarknie.  The  inoft  probable  acr- 
count  of  the  origin  of  the  name  is  this:  To  the  parifh  church, 
in  former  times,  was  annexed  a  fieeple,  in  an  elevated  and 
confptcuous  ftfllion,  which  being  one  of  the  firft  obje&s 
obferved  bj  mariners  in  coming  «p  the  Murraj  Frith, 
they  would  naturally  fay  to  one  another,  "  Mark  ye  Roje  !'' 
which,  for  the  fake  of  better  found,  was  turned  into  Rofll. 
markie.  The  extent  of  the  pariffa,  from  £•  to  W.,  is  about 
6  i^Uet  in  length ;  and  3  mites  in  breadth,  from  S.  to  N« 

Situation^  Sot/,  Climate^  and  Difeafes.—T\it  lltuation  of  the 
parifli  is  very  fine  and  pleafant,  as  it  rifes  gradually  from  the 
itzi  and  the  hills,  both  on  the  S.  and  N.,  are  for  the  moft  part 

aral^Ci 


234  Statiftical  Account 

arable,  in  fummer  covered  with  verdure,  and  producing  rich 
and  early  crops.  The  nature  of  the  foil  is  various.  In  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  town,  where  there  is  a  large  and  beautiful 
flat,  well  cultivated,  it  is  a  fine  black  inouM  upon  light  gravel* 
which,  in  moderately  raiby  feafons,  never  fails  to  yield  a  lux- 
uriant produce  of  barley  and  peafe,  which  are  the  grain  prin- 
cipally fown  here.  la  other  parts  of  the  parilh,  the  lands  lie 
generally  on  a  deep  clay  bottom,  producing  oats  in  great 
abundance,  that  make  excellent  meal.  As  the  country  lies  diy, 
aud  has  the  benefit  of  fine  fea  breezes,  the  air  is  pute  and  6u 
lubrious,  fo  that  few  contagious  diftempers  make  their*  ap- 
pearance, and  when  they  do,  their  progreis  is  quickly  checked. 
The  fmall-poz,  that,  in  former  cti&es,  ufed  to  make  the  greateft 
ravages,  is  now  alleviated  by  inoculation^  to  which  even  the 
lower  ranks  of  the  people  b^in  to  be  reconciled.  In  this 
parilh,  very  few  ohildrctt  have  died  of  that  diftemper  for  the 
lafl  10  years- 
Co^,  Shell  Fi/bf  (»nd  (7AVf A-^The  coaft  all  along,  between 
Rofemarkie  and  Cromarty,  is  bold  and  rocky.  It  abounds 
with  romantic  views,'  and  fright^l  precipices.  Along  thefe 
the  ivy  creeps  in  ragged  difs,  where  hawks  and  wiM  pigeons 
neftle,  and 

**  Low  brow*d  rocks  hang  oo^^  o'er  Ihe  deefr." 

Crabs  and  lobflcrs  are  dragged  from  holes  among  the  ipcks, 
with  old  com  hook^,  by  countiy  women  \  and  C^s  are  often 
feen  on  them,  and  otters  fbot,  though  not  very  numerous. 
There  are  likewife  a  variety  of  curious  natural  caves  along 
the  fhore,  fome  of  them  very  deep,  and  one  that  runs  quits 
through  the  rock»  for  about  50  yards,  aSbiding  aH  open 
ptflay  to  fuch  as  wi&  to  examine  iCt    Some  of  tbcfc  have 

been 


of  Rofcmatkie.  335 

been  ufed  as  a  temporarj  lodging  bj  fiihers,  when  there  was 
a  great  run  of  herring,  and  others  refortcd  to  bj  fmugglers 
as  fit  places  for  concealing  of  their  prohibited  articles. 

Woods^  Fiftferies^  Ferry^  Sec. — ^Though  large  tracks  of  the 
pariih  were  of  old  covered  with  wood,  it  had  become  quite 
exhaafted*  In  tbe  courfe  of  20  years  back,  fome  confider- 
able  plantations  of  iirs  have  been  raifed,  which  are  verj  thriv- 
ing ;  and  as  the  parifli  is  but  poorly  fupplied  with  mofs^  thefe 
will  be  a  ufeful  fund  for  fuel.  There  is  a  falmon  fiiliing  at 
the  Point  of  Chanonry  Nefs,  where  the  falmon  are  caught» 
frelh  from  tbe  fea,  in  their  higheA  perfe&ion.  About  40 
years  ago»  tt  was  rented  at  a  lOO  merks  Scotch.  It  now  pro- 
duces 70I.  Sterling.  The  Point  here  projeAs  a  good  way  in- 
to  the  feaif  and  form?  a  fine  curve,  which  makes  it  a  beautiful 
objeft.  It  terminates  the  Links  of  Fortrofe,  about  an  £dg- 
lifli  mile  in  length,  and  fmooth  as  a  carpet.  This  is  fine  ground 
for  the^o^  which  is  often  played  here  by  the  gentlemen  of  the 
town  and  coontry.  Tie  Point  is  the  fituation  for  tlie  ferry- 
boat that  paflfes  to  Fort*George ;  and  fo  fafe  is  the  pafTige, 
that  there  is  not  an  inftauce  of  any  being  loft  on  it  in  memory 
,  of  man. 

jigrkuiturtj  Produce ^  and  Cattle, — The  common  Scotch 
plough  is  for  the  mod  part  ufed  in  the  pari(h ;  but  fome 
farmers  begin  to  prefer  that  with  the  feather  fock,  as  moft 
convenient,  efpecially  for  turning  Ice  or  meadow  ground.  The 
number  of  ploughs  in  the  country  and  town  is  reckoned  to 
be  aH  )ut  $0.  Thefe  are  commonly  drawn  by  6,  and  fome* 
ttnus  3  mic'idle  fixed,  or  rather  fmall  oxen,  which  are  found 
beft  adapted  for  ftcep  or  hilly  lands,  and  go  through  their 
labour  with  much  fteadinefs.  Small  horfes  are  employed  in 
carrying  manure,  yoked  in  a  fort  of  light  fledge,  rolling  on 

3  woodv'a 


336  Statiftical  Account 

wooden  wheels.  But  where  the  ground  5s  tolerably*  level, 
many  farmers  now  begin  to  ufc  coups^  drawn  bj  a  couple  of 
oxen,  which  make  the  work  much  eafier  and  more  expediti- 
ous..  Horfes  are  chiefly  employed  in  cultivating  the  lands 
about  the  burgh.  The  method  of  farming  there,  for  time 
immemorial,  has  been  remarkably  uniform.  It  confifts  of  a 
conftant  fucceflion  of  barley  j  and  though  the  lands  be  feldooi 
or  never  retted,  it  is  furprifing  how  much  they  produce,  bearing 
commonly  fix  or  feven  returns.'  When  a  quantity  of  fca  ware 
and  tangles  are  thrown  alhore  (which  often  happens  in  a  ftorm}, 
the  farmers,  in  fpring  efpecially,  are  very  attentive  in  gather- 
ing it,  and  fpreading  it  upon  their  lands ;  and  they  reckon  it 
an  excellent  manure  for  a  barley  crop.  They  feldom  take 
time  to  mix  it  in  a  compott  dunglull,  though  that  might  better 
anfwer  the  purpofe.  Of  late,  they  have  begun  to  ufc  the  roll- 
er, which  in  light  foil  they  find  to  be  an  advantage.  In  the 
country  part  of  the  parifh,  the  tenants  are  not  fo  aecoftomed 
to  raife  green  crops,  but  frequently  fow  oats  in  the  fame  fields 
for  feveral  years  running,  which  renders  them  much  Icfs  pro- 
duftive.  A  large  quantity  of  potatoes  is  raifed  here,  of  a  very- 
free  and  fweet  quality.  Some  of  the  farmers  have  flocks  of 
flieep,  of  a  fitiall  kind,  wh^ch  are  paflured  on  heath,  and 
among  whins  and  broom  \  but  their  flocks  are  not  numerous*. 

Improvements. — Here  it  may  not  be  amifs  to  take  notice  of 
a  fmall  improvement  lately  made  by  the  minifter  of  the  parifli,  , 
which,  in  fimilar  operations,  may  ferve  as  an  example  and 
encourageihent  to  otheis.  Very  near  the  nianfe,  on  the  fide 
of  the  public  road  to  Fortrofe,  there  was  a  lake,  covering  be- 
tween 3  and   4  acres,  in  winter  filled  with   water,   running 

down 

♦  The  prices  of  labour,  fervflnts  fees,  and  aittrlcs  of  |Tovifirn,  are  much  the 
f«me  u  ill  the  neighbouring  pariflict.  Aloft  of  them  Rrc  nearly  doubled  (iDCi 
die  preheat  xniDiiler  iva»  Tc wiled* 


of  Rofemarkle.  337 

down  from  a  hill  above  it,  and  kept  in  by  a  rtfing  ground  on 
the  fide  contiguous  to  the  king's  highway.     Owing  to  this, 
k  was,  in  the  middle,  at  Teaft  four  feet  deep ;  and  a  fmall 
boat   has  been   feen   paddling   through  it,  with  perfons  in 
queft  of  wild  ducks.     By  the  ftagnation  of  the  water  in 
the  heat  of  fusDOoer,  and  the  fteeping  of  lint  by  the  people 
(which  raifed  a  mo  A  difagreeable  and  unwholefome  fmell), 
it  was  often  an    intolerable   nuifance.     Many  fcheoies   had 
been  formed  for  draining  it,  but  they  were  generally  thought 
impraAicable.     However,  the  writer  of  this,  coniidering  that 
his  glebe,  which  lay  diredtly  opposite  to  it,  on  the  other  fide  of 
the  road,  was  upon  a  bank  of  gravely  (having  firil  taken  a  feu 
of  it  from  the  town,  at  a  reafonable  feu«dnty),  determined  to 
cut  a  very  deep  drain  acrofs  the  road  into  his  glebe,  fo  as  to 
command  the  level  of  the  water  (which  required  about  14  feet 
in  depth),  and  then  to  let  it  oflF  by  degrees,  in  hopes  the  gravel 
bank  might  fwallow  it.  The  experiment  anfwered  his  expcfta- 
tion^  and,  in  the  courfe  of  lefs  than  a  month,  there  was  not  a 
drop  left  in  it.     He  then  cut  a  wide  and  deep  ditch  by  the 
fide  of  it,  to  receive  the  water  as  it  fell  from  the  hills ;  and, 
befides  a  number  of  crofs  drains,  filled  with  (tones,  he  dug 
under  ground  an  open  drain,  faced  with  flone  and  covered  with 
flags,  communicating  with  the  bottom  of  the  ditch,  and  convey* 
ing  the  water,  for  more  than  150  yards,  into  the  bankof  chingle, 
where  it  finks,  and  never  more  appears.     Sometimes,  indeed, 
on  a  fudden  thaw,  or  a  violent  rufh  from  the  hills,  the  drain 
cannot  immediately  command  the  water,  and  fo  it  breaks  out 
upon  the.  furface  \  J)ut  in  a  ihort  tra&  of  (air  weather  {t  goes 
down,  and  leaves  a  fliinc,.  which  fetves  to  enrich  the  foil. 
Thefe  operations  were   attended  with  confiderable  ezpence^ 
but  the  fuccefs  has  amply  repaid  it.    From  a  fingle  boll  of 
EiTex  oats,  ^wn  here  in  17S9,  in  fcarce  an  acre  and  a  half, 
there  were  adually  reaped  2  a  bolls  and  a  firlots,  a  very  ex- 
traordinary return.     The  ftalks  in  many  parts  were  from  6  tq 
Vol.  XI.  Uu 


3  3  S  Statifiical  Account 

*j  feet  long.  Lad  Ceafon  a  part  of  it  was  laid  down  with  largs 
glcflj  black  oatSf  from  a  farm  in  Aberdeenfliire*;  and  though 
(he  feed  happened  to  arrive  rather  too  late,  it  produced  a  good 
Return.  This  fpecles  of  black  oats  is  a  new  grain  in  this  coun* 
trji  but  thty  are  faid  tQ  meal  remarkaUj  well,  and  a  few 
^olls  of  them  have  been  circulated  to  give  them  a  fair  trial* 
It  is  hoped  the  length"  of  this  article  will  be  excufed,  as  it 
inaj  ificite  others  to  make  the  like  ufeful  experiments. 

Poptflation^-rrKn  exaA  enumeration  of  the  inhabitants  of 
the  parifli  was  made  out  laft  fpring.  From  the  lofs  of  fome  of 
the  old  regiflers,  and  the  negligence  of  the  people  in  regifler*? 
^ng  the  births  of  their  children,  the  baptifms  cannot  be  ftated 
yeith  perfeft  accuracj.  No  regiiler  of  bnripls  has  been  kept 
in  the  pariQi  \  but  as  its  ijtuation  is  uncon^.monlj  healthjf ,  thefe 
father  full  below  the  ordinary  prppprtion.  In  moft  years,  the 
births  cf  n^ako  and  females  are  nearly  equal  \  but  upon  the 
ivhole,  the  ma^c^  arc  mod  r/r- ."'•'^•'?:  All  the  inhabitants  arc 
pf  the  Eftablilhed  Church,  excepting  one  or  two  families  in 
the  town  of  Chanonry,  who  ^e  of  the  JE^pifcopal  perfuafion, 

The  ftatement,  therefore,  for  1793,  ftands  thus : 
Number  of  examinable  pcrforsf,  «  -  •  -  zo4o 
fouls  at  and  b^low  7  years  of  age,            -            .            -  193 

Tctal  number  o''  in  J  ••*■    .nti,  -  •  -  .  ia6» 

The  return  to  Dr.  \^  et'iei ,  in  1755,  wat  ^  -  -  II40 

fncreafe,  -  -  •  -  \i% 

The  town  of  Chanonry  cortains, 


ortains,        -         445*1 

. -         ft96i 

ariib, -     5a'3 


The  town  of  Rofenarkie, -         496  J-         -         -         •  1264 

The  country  par;  of  the  par>A» 

Annual 

*  Viz.  MoNKSRitt,  a  fann  belonging  to  Dt.  An9IR«ov,  Editor  of  the  Bee, 
who,  in  ap  eifay  on  the  different  fpeciea  of  oats,  firongly  reconuncodt  thefe 
black  oats  as  of  excellent  quality,  which  was  the  reaCbn  of  fending  for  them^ 

-f  In  the  memory  of  the  prefent  minlfter,  witliiq  little  snore  than  ao  years,  t# 

p^rfoa^ 


of  Rofetharkie.  5  J9 

Asntial  avefajrc  of  births,        •       34        Tailorj,            *            -            -  4 

■                   marriages,     -     7        Mafoiu,            -            -            -  » 

Proprietors,  great  and  fmall,     -     %%         Glowers,           -                 -  ^ 

ACcrchantt  in  the  towns,         -         7         Smith,            -             ^             -  1 

•  % 


Shoemakcrt  and  their  apprentices*,  3  %  fiutcheri , 

Wearers  and  their  apprentices*,     35  Writer, 

Square-wrights,        ...     4  Tearhert, 

MUl-wrights^        .        .         •        2»  MintKcr,  *  -  -    2 


Wearers  and  their  apprentices*,     35        Writer,  -  -  -       i 

Square- Wrights,        -        -        .     4        Tearhers,  .-  -  -    4 


Heritdrs  dnd  Rents.-^The  jJrincipal  htritors  ate,  Alexander 
Rofs,  £fq.  of  Cromartj ;  the  heirs  of  Abraham  Leflj,  £fq» 
of  Findracj ;  Sir  Roderick  M^Kentie  of  Scalwell,  Bart.;  And^ 
rew  Millar  of  Rincardj )  Roderick  M'Senzie  of  Flowetburn ; 
and  about  the  burgh,  Seaforth,  the  heirs  of  the  late  Sir  Alex- 
ander Grant  of  Dalvej,  Bart«$  Duftcan  Forbes  of  Wellfield» 
and  about  14  other  fmall  heritors,  who  are  polTeffcd  of  burgagd 
lands  and  tenements.  None  6(  the  prinfcipal  heritors  rcfide  ill 
the  pariflu  The  toul  valued  rent  is  37  J3I.  iss-  4d.  Scotch  j 
the  real  rent  is  about  1350  bolls  of  grain,  and  above  fool.- 
Sterling  in  iponej^     About  the  burgh,  lands  are  rented  froni 

U  tt  a  30S4 


^t'foDs  hire  liiccf  in  tfic  jiaridi,  4ged  90  and  npwirds;  3  %n  now  hving  90  yenrv 
old,  and  about  30  between  70  and  So.  One  vigorous  old  man  of  87  put  off 
his  wig  laft  year,  and  has  now  a  fet  of  venerable  grey  locks.  He  was  in  Edtn^ 
burgh  at  the  hanging  of  Captain  Porteovm,  whkh,  he  fayt,^  he  welf  deferred,  as  if 
fweet-heart  of  his  was  wounded  by  the  firing. 

•  *  k  has  beeff  remarhed,  that  for  ages  paft,  the  g/eater  j^alt  of  the  inhalit- 
cnta»  of  the  lower  clafJ,  in  Chanonry,  haVe  been  ihoefnakert,  and,  hi  Rofcmarkie, 
weavers;  and  they  commonly  trahi  their  children  to  the  fame  occupsttions.  Th0 
flioenakers  not  only  fnraiih  fhoes  for  the  pa^iih,  bky  car^  a  parcel  weekly  fur 
file  to  Interne fs,  though  they  compbin  that  the  tanners  enjt>y  afnSoft  all  their 
profits.  The  weavers  art  conftantly  employed  in  working  lineA,  a  cobfiderabro 
quantity  of  which  is  fold  at  the  two  annil^al  fairs,  which  circulates  a  good  deal 
<of .money  in  the  place.  They  ratfe  and  manufK^i^i  the  lias  themfeWas  Sf9m 
whtwh  the  linen  ik  uia<^e. 


340  Statlfilcal  Account 

3«s.  to  40s.  per  acre  (though  not-indofed);  and  in  the  conn- 
try,  good  arable  ground  draws  from  tjs*  to  aos. 

Burgh. — The  town  of  Rosemarkie,  though  not  krge,  is 
of  confiderable  antiquity.  It  was  erected  into  a  royal  burgh 
by  Alexander  King  of  Scotland  ;-^which  of  them  is  not  fpeci- 
fied,  but  it  was-  probably  Alexander  II.  About  a  mile  to 
the  W.  of  it,  ftands  the  town  of  Cbanonry^  fo  called  from  its 
being  the  chanonry  of  Rots,  where  the  biihop  formerly  had 
his  reiidence,  and  which  is  npw  die  prefbytery  feat.  It  was 
united  to  the  burgh  of  Rofemarkie,  by  a  charter  granted  by 
King  James  IL  anno  1444,  under  the  common  name  of  For/* 
rofs^  now  foftened  into  Forttofe;  which  charter  was  ratified 
by  King  James  VL,  an^rio  i  J929  and  confirmed  in  a  ftill  more 
ample  form,  by  the  fanie  monarch,  in  the  year  161  a*  Thefe 
charters  bear,  that  it  was  to  be  *'  entitled  to  all  the  privileges, 
**  liberties  and  immunities,  granted  to  the  town  of  Invemefs.'' 
Fortrofe  is  then  fpoken  of,  as  a  town  fiourifliing  in  the  arts 
and  fciences,  having  been  at  that  time  the  feat  of  divinity,  law 
and  phyfic,  in  this  corner  of  the  kingdom*. 

Court  HilL^^Ahort  Rofemarkie  there  is  a  circular  hill, 
quite  level  on  the  top,  which  feems  to  have  been  artificial. 

It 

«  About  6  ycvt  a^,  •  parcel  of  fiWer  coioi  were  found  in  a  finall  caira  of 
ftones,  in  a  moor,  about  a  mile  from  Rofemarkie.  They  were  moftly  fhilliDp 
of  Queen  Elizabeth,  with  a  mixture  of  othcf  coins,  and  particularly  feme  bean- 
dful  ones  of  James  i.  and  Charles  U  of  different  Uses.  It  b  probable  tbey  were 
depofited  there  in  the  time  of  the  cm!  war,  and  may  have  been  brought  to  the 
country  by  the  gallant  Marquis  of  Montrofe,  or  feme  of  his  followers*  Moft 
of  them  arc  in  the  poiTeflion  of  Mr.  Wood,  the  minifter  of  the  pariflu^  Aboot 
aoo  more  filver  coins  were  found  lately,  in  a  malTy  copper  }ag  of  an  antique 
form,  in  digging  up  tke  foundation  of  an  old  houfe  at  Chanonry.  They  were 
coined  in  the  reign  of  Robert  Klog  of  Scots,  and  arc  nearly  of  the  lize  of  a  Britifii 
ihilling. 


of  Rofcmarkie.  34 1 

It  his  been  always  called  the  Court  Hill.  In  ancient  tiroes, 
it  was  probably  the  place  where  courts  were  held,  for  the  ad-' 
miniftration  of  jailice. 

Cathedral^  \3c. — Only  a  fmall  part  of  the  ancient  cathedral  * 
now  remains.  This  feems  to  have  been  a  wing  that  ran  from  £« 
to  W.,  with  an  arched  roof,  about  100  feet  in  length,  and  30 
in  breadth.  It  had  a  communication,  by  entries  or  poxches, 
with  the  main  b^.dy  of  the  cathedral.  It  was  preferved  and 
repaired,  by  fome  of  the  bifliops,  fince  the  Reftoration,  as  a 
place  for  public  worihip ;  but  now  it  has  gone  much  to  de- 
cay f;  and  as  the  roof  is  in  danger  of  falling  in,  it  is  quite 
deferted.  It  is  ftill  ufed  as  a  burial  place  by  the  M'Kenzies, 
and  other  old  families  in  this  country.  No  infcriptions  are  to 
be  found  about  it  worth  notice,  excepting  one  on  a  large  old 

•  Though  the  BiHiop  of  Roft  wis  originalljr  ftflcd  Epifcopus  Rofinarkienfir^ 
tlie  cathedral  church  (loud  in  the  town  of  Chanonrt,  in  a  fpacious  fquare* 
Here  the  bilhop  refided,  with  a  number  of  his  clergy ;  fo  that  there  is  fcarce  a 
koufe  in  the  bargh,  of  any  great  value,  bat  was  formerly  a  manfe  belonging  to 
fomc  of  the  chapter,  as  appears  by  the  ancient  charters  and  infeftmenfs.  The 
cpifeopal  fee  was  founded  by  David  I.  king  of  Scotland ;  but  there  is  n%  certain 
account  at  what  period  th» cathedral  was  built,  though  it  is  faid  to  have  been  & 
fine  one,  with  a  lofty  fteeple.  Bifliop  Leflie  alfo  takes  notice  of  the  palace, 
which  ftood  ^t  a  little  diftance  from  tfte  honfes  of  the  canons ;  and  he  rcprefenti 
it,  in  his  time,  as  a  fplendid  and  magoificcnt  building. 

f  It  is  highly  proLable,  that  this  cathedral,  at  the  Reformation,  had  fufTered 
the  fate  of  many  others,  though  it  be  a  current  tradition  in  the  place,  that  the 
greater  part  of  it,  together  with  the  biihop*s  palace,  already  mentioned,  was 
pulled  down  in  the  time  of  Oliver  CromwelL  By  his  order,  the  (tones  were 
carried  by  fea  to  Invernefs  about  the  diltance  of  S  miles,  for  crefling  a  fort 
there,  called  CromweWs  Fort,  whereof  the  flitch  and  ramparts  arc  ftill  difcem- 
ible.  No  chartulary  belonging  to  the  biihopric  has  been  IbunJ  in  Scotlajid.  It 
is  probable  that  Lefly,  the  laft  Popifh  bilhop  of  Rofs,  and  the  zealous  advocat« 
for  the  unfortunate  (^een  Mary,  when  he  was  forced  to. go  abroad^  carried  all 
the  writs  of  the  diocefe  with  him,  either  to  France,  or  to  BruHels,  vyhcre 
he  died ;  and  where  tliefc  parchments  may  ftill  be  mouldering  in  duft  an'i 
folitude. 


34^  Stati/iical  Account 

belly  now  hung  in  a  fmall  modem  fpire.  It  bears  the  name 
of  Mr.  Thomas  Tulloch,  as  bifhop  of  Rofs,  and  declares 
the  bell  to  have  b^n  '*  dedicated  to  the  mod  holy  Mart  and 
**  the  bleffcd  BoNirACE*,  Anno  Domyny  1460."  There  arc 
fonfte  fteae  coffins  in  niches  f  by  the  infide  of  the  wall,  with 
figures  of  the  bifliops  in  their  canonicals,  elegantly  cut  in 
ftone ;  but  they  are  much  defaced  by  time,  and  no  name  or 
year  is  to  be  feen  on  them.  In  the  dire&ion  of  the  main  body 
of  the  cathedral  at  the  £.,  and  detached  from  its  remains, 
flands  a  houfe  that  was  probably  the  ▼eflry.  It  contains  a  . 
vault  below,  with  a  ftrong  arched  roof,  now  converted  into  a 

prifoni 

•  The  favourite  faint  and  patron  of  the  place,  by  cvcfy  incient  monument, 
appears  to  have  been  St.  Boniface.  This  is  quite  a  different  pcrfon  from  St« 
Boniface,  archbiftiop  of  Menu,  coofecrated  by  Pope  Gregory  IL,  and  errone* 
•ully  fuppofed,  by  fome  of  our  Scotch  writers,  to  be  the  fame  with  the  other. 
The  hiftory  of  our  faint,  according  to  tradition,  b  (imply  this.  In  the  year 
693,  or,  as  others  fay,  about  the  year  697,  Boniface,  an  IttUan,  a  grat^e  and 
venerable  perfon,  came  to  Scotland,  to  make  up  oar  acquaintance  with  th^ 
church  of  Rome.  He  built,  to  the  memory  of  St.  Peter,  a  church  where  hef 
,  landed,  at  the  mouth  of  a  little  water,  betwixt  the  (hires  of  Angus  and  Mearns  ; 
trcdled  another  church  at  Fclin,  a  third  at  Reftcnnoth,  and  a  fourth  at  Roft^. 
markie ;  where,  being  taken  with  the  pieafantne&  of  the  place,  he  thought  fit 
to  reiide,  and  was  buried  there.  Biihop  LeOy  fpeaks  of  Rofemarkie  as  deco- 
rated with  the  relifis  of  the  faint,  and  the  very  ancient  fepulchres  and  monu« 
nents  of  him  and  his  parents ;  whence  it  would  feem,  that  he  hai  brought  hii 
parents  from  Italy  with  him,  in  this  pious  expedition. 

f  Bef^des  this  famous  faint,  tradition  reportSi  that  there  was  buried  in  thi4 
pl«:e  a  Oanifli  chief,  of  a  large  fize,  who  fell  in  a  battle  fought  in  the  Mull 
Buy,  an  cxtenfive  moor  about  3  miles  diHant.  There  arc,  indeed,  evident  markf 
of  graves  and  battles ;  and  fome  huge  piles  of  flones,  in  digging  among  which, 
feveral  ftone  co(fins  have  been  difcovered.  lo  tlus  moor,  it  is  probable,  the  in- 
habitants of  the  country  fought  the  Danes,  after  they  had  landed  ai  Cromarty. 
In  the  church-yard,  too,  lies  the  body  of  Andrew  Murray,  a  very  brave  man, 
regent  of  the  kingdom  in  the  reign  of  David  If.,  who,  after  defeating  the  Eng- 
lilh  in  many  battles,  and  quieting  the  ftate  of  the  nation  (according  to  Buchanan), 
having  gone  to  the  north,  to  take  a  view  of  Lis  poffcffit»ns  there,  died  in  I^J* 
and  was  buried  at  Rofemarkie. 


(f  Roftmarku.  34;} 

prifott  ;  and  the  upper  part  of  it,  lately  repaired,  is  the  Caun-* 
cil  Chamber  of  the  burgh. 

From  the  traditional  account  of  St.  Boniface  annexed,  there 
is  ground  to  tliink,  the  prefent  parifh  church  had  its  foundation 
bid  t>7  him.  In  repairing  it,  anno  1735*  in  a  vault,  under 
a  very  ancient  fieeple,  there  were  found  fome  (lone  cofEns  of 
xude  workoaanihip,  one  of  which  might  probably  contain  the 
bones  of  this  venerable  apoflle.  To  perpetuate  his  memory, 
v^e  have  here  an  annual  market,  called  St.  Boniface  Fair, 
and  a  well  of  excellent  water  is  alfo  diftinguifhed  by  his  name. 
I^ay,  what  is  Hill  more,  the  feal  of  the  old  cathedral  is  yet 
preferved,  and  ufed  as  the  public  feal  of  the  burgh,  with  this 
infcriplion,  iq  Saxon  charaders,  ^  scafituu  scc«/  fetki 
ET  bonefacii  de  rosmarkik.  St.  Feter  (lands  on  it  with 
his  keys,  and  Boniface  with  his  crock,  in  capital  order — 
(See  the  Copperplate^  fronting  page  317.) 

Churchy  %3c. — ^The  minifler's  flipend  is  6  chalders  and  8 
J)olls  of  bear,  and  3  chalders  of  meal.  But  with  refpcfi  tQ 
the  payment  of  it,  there  are  fome  things  a  little  uncommon. 
Above  2  chalders  are  drawn  in  teindjheaves^  or  in  kind,  frooi 
(he  lands  about  the  l^urgh,  which,  when  the  decreet  of  locality 
was  pafled  in  1716,  was  beneficial  to  the  incumbent ;  but  the 
tenants,  for  many  years,  having  turned  at  leaft  a  fourth  part 
of  the  lands  into  potatoes  and  grafs,  (from  which  the  minifter 
receives  nothing)^  his  living  is  thus  diminifhed.  He  has  like- 
wife,  on  account  of  thefe  drawn  teinds,  a  valuation  in  the  pa- 
p(h  of  104I.  Scotch,  by  which  he  pajs  cefs,  and  is  burdened 
with  a  proportion  of  the  expcuce  of  kirk  and  ipanfe,  an4 
fchoolmafter's  fa}ary.  This  he  reckons  a  hardlhip ;  and  ay 
the  drawing  of  the  teind  from  the  fields  is  very  troublefome 
and  difagreeable,  for  this  and  other  reafons,  he  has  been  ob-^ 

li^e<t 

«  Thtt  fecsu  to  be  a  cofitra<aiop  for  S^NCTORV^f 


344  Stattfiical  Account 

liged  to  applj  to  the  Court  of  Sefllon,  to  hare  tbefe  teiodf 
paid  in  another  manner,  and  his  living  put  upon  a  better  and 
more  certain  footing  than  it  now  \%  f  •  Kenneth  M'Kenzie, 
£fq.  of  Cromarty,  is  reckoned  patron  of  the  parifli.  The 
prefent  manfe  was  built  in  1756,  on  a  rifing  ground,  direft]j 
oppofite  to  Fort  George  ;  and  commands  a  fine  extenfire 
profpeft  of  the  Mnrraj  Frith,  Invernefs,  Nairn,  and  the  ad- 
jacent country.  It  is  jull  about  to  be  repaired  -,  and  is  fur- 
rounded  with  the  glebe,  confiding  of  about  4  Scotch  acres.  The 
church  Hands  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  diftant,  in  the  town 
of  Rofemarkie,  on  a  dry  bank  of  fand,  near  the  fea  iliore. 
It  was  built  upon  the  old  plan,  uncommonly  long  and  narrow, 
which  is  very  difagreeable  to  the  preacher ;  but  when  the 
prefent  roof  fails,  it  is  hoped  the  heritors  will  hare  it  re«. 
built,  in  a  more  proper  and  commodious  form* 

Poor.— The  lift  of  the  poor  in  the  parllh  is  above  60.  In 
this,  however,  are  included  a  good  number,  who,  though  able  to 
work  for  themfclves,  receive  fmall  annual  fupplies,  efpecially 
when  they  are  known  to  have  young  families.  Thefe  the 
minifter  and  kirk-fefllon  endeavour  to  proportion  to  their  real 
neceflities.  Few  or  none  of  them  travel  about  to  feek  charity 
in  other  pariflies«  The  fund  for  their  fupport  arifes  from  the 
weekly  colle£lions  in  the  church,  which  may  amount,  through- 
out the  year,  to  between  81.  and  9I.,  and  a  fmall  capital  of 
above  2coL,  laid  out  at  intereft,  with  fome  rents  of  feats  in 
the  church.  In  the  late  hard  years  they  were  forced  to  en- 
croach upon  theit  capital,  for  the  fubfiftence,  not  only  of  their 
ordinary  poor,  but  of  many  other  families,  then  reduced  to 
very  ftraitened  circumftanccs*     Befides  this,  there  are  two 

mortifications 

f  The  prefent  mbifler  fuccceded  his  father  in  1775.    He  hat  ZO  children, 

p  tops  and  6  daughters. 


f^f  Rofcmarkh.  345 

ttortiGcations  for  the  poor  of  Gbanoorj;  the  one  hy  BARBARik 
M'Kekzie  Counfefs  of  Seaforth,  anno  1680,  of  17  bolls  1 
.£rIota  land  rent«  under  the  adminiftration  of  the  mintfters  of 
Hofemarkie  and  Avoch ;  and  the  other  of  27  bolls,  from  fome 
•lands  difponed  by  fiiihop  Patersok,  and  others  pnrchafed 
^th  money  mortified  by  Sir  Alexander  M'Kekzie  of  ConI, 
n^hereof  the  magiftrates  are  adminiftrators.  Ttiefe  are  no 
doubt  ufefttly  but  would  be  much  more  fo,  had  they  been  deC. 
tined,  or  could  they  lie  regulated,  fo  as  to  operate  as  an  incite- 
ment and  reward  to  -induftry.  John  Fowler,  Efq.  a  native 
cf  this  place,  who  died  laft  year  in  Jamaica,  has  alfo  bequeath- 
.•d  lool.  to  the  poor,  and  100  guineas  to  the  academy. 

AcADEMT.— The  origin  of  thisinftitution  is  a  little  fingular, 
.snd  will  require  a  piirticular  detail.  In  the  year  1699,  Thomas 
^ORBEs,  bailie  of  Fortrofe,  who  feems  to  have  been  a  good 
and  pious  man,  mortified  (funk)  a  bond  of  1800  merks  Scotch, 
or  lool.  Sterling,  for  aXalary  to  a  catechift  and  examiner  of 
the  inhabitants  ;  until,  by  the  charitable  donations  of  others, 
fuch  a  fum  might  be  contributed,  as  might  produce  an  annual 
fiipend  for  a  miaifter  of  the  Eftabliflied  Church,  (erving  the 
^ure  in  that  burgh.  This  bond  was  granted  to  himl>y  Isobel 
Countefs  of  Seafortn  ;  and,  in  the  deed  of  mortification,  the 
miniiiers  of  Rofemarkie  and  Avoch,  are  left  fole  adminiftra- 
tors  of  the  fund ;  John  Qallas  and  Hugh  Saillie,  then  writers 
in  Fortrofe,  having  been  nominated  during  their  lifetime  only. 
At  what  time  this  money  was  €rft  received,  or  how  it  was 
appKed  for  many  years,  there  is  no  evidence  to  be  found.  le 
is  certain,  however,  riiat  the  monification  was  much  negteded, 
.and  in  danger  of  being  entirely  loft.  Its  recovery  was  greatly 
owing  to  the  exertions  of  Mr.  Alexander  Rat,  roinifter  of 
Avoch^  with  the  i^ftance  of  Mr.  Nicol  Splnce,  then  agent 
for  the  church,  who  were  forced  to  raife  a  procefs  againft  thofe 
IToL*  XI.  X  z  *  principall/ 


54^  Stfitjfiical  j^cpunt 

principallj  poncerned  in  u,  which  began  io  ^*J^^^  and  coo-  . 
tioued  till  17  31 ;  when  tbej  recovered  what  tbej  eould,  and 
got  the  mqnej  lettled  to  boar  lotereft.  On  the  death  of  Mr. 
Kaj,  in  17351  the  fund  fell  chiefly  under  the  management  of 
Mr.  JoHK  Wood,  late  minifter  of -Rofemarkiey  who  beftowed 
on  it  the  utmoft  attentbn  ;  and,  aotwithftanding  fbipe  misfor- 
tunes, to  which  all  human  affiiirs  are  liable,  bj  the  power  of 
accumulation,  and  the  care  of  the  admin iftratqrs,  in  laying  it 
out  to  the  bell  advantage,  it  is  now  brought  up  to  a  capital  of 
about  aoool  Sterling.  And,  fincc  the  year  1746,  a  fqfiall  (a« 
lary  of  308.  yearly  has  been  alfo  paid  from  it,  to  a  catechift 
in  the  town  of  Fortrofe. 

The  prefent  adminiftrators,  Mr.  Alexander  Wood,  minifter 
of  Rofemarkie,  and  Mc.  James  Smith,  miniAer  pf'Avoch,  find- 
ing the  fund  in  fo  thriving  a  (late,  from  their  own  aftentioa 
to  it,  as  well  as  tlie  fidelity  and  diligence  of  their  predeceflbrsy 
began  to  think  in  what  manner  they  might  apply  it  to  the 
moft  ufeful  purpofe.  With  a  view  to  this,  it  occured  to  them, 
that  ic  could  not  be  employed  better  than  in  the  eftablilhment 
of  an  academy  at  jFortrofe.  To  this  they  were  invited  much 
by  the  healthy  fituation  of  the  place,  free  from  temptations 
to  vice,  and  abounding  with  many  fine  walks  and  places  of 
cxcrcife  for  the  ftudents.  They  faw  likewifei  that  this  could 
be  effeAed,  fo  as  fully  to  aofwer  the  intention  of  the  pious 
donor^  and  to  be  produdive  of  the  beft  effe&s  to  the  community. 
This  inftitution  has  been  accordingly  formed.  With  the  aid! 
of  a  liberal  fobfciption  from  the  gentlemen  of  this  county,  and 
many  others,  (to  the  amount  of  above  6ool.  Sterling),  the 
admiuiilrators  purchafed  a  new  houfe  and  garden,  in  a  very 
agreeable  part  of  the  towi;,  commanding  a  moft  pleafant  pro- 
fpe&  i  and  have  built  another  houfe  in  the  fame  fquare,  with 
excellent  rooms  for  teaching,  and  other  accommodations.  One 
•£  thefe  houles  is  deftined  for  the  re&ori  and  the  other  for  the 
.  (eacher 


bf  lR,ofematBe.  347 

tocher  of  matliematics ;  and  both  are  very  fit  for  lodging 
tx)arders. 

In  this  bulinefa,  the  adtniniftrators  are  liappj  in  having 
the  afliftance  and  fupport  of  feveral  vttf  refpefiable  gentle- 
men of  the  countj  of  Rbfs,  who  are  named  Vifitors  of  the  Aca- 
demjy  to  obferve  that  the  regulations  be  properly  attended  to ; 
and  each  of  thefe  has  the  privilege  of  fending  to  it  any  youAg 
man  they  pleafe,  to  be  educated  without  paying  fees  to  the 
mafters*  The  inftitution  is  yet  in  its  infancy ;  but,  from  a 
variety  of  circunoflances,  there  is  little  doubt  ^of  its  fuccefs.  A 
finer  of  heidthier  fituatiohfor  fuch  a  feminary,  is  not  to  be  found 
in  Scotland ;  andj  as  there  is  now  a  ve^rj  frequent  inrercourfe 
by  trading  vefiels,  this  affords  a  cheap  aiid  eafy  conveyance 
to  Fortrofe  from  London,  Leith,  and  other  principal  feai  ports  ; 
and  ftudents  who  attend  here/  among  many  other  advantages 
in  point  of  health,  may  have  the  benefit  of  excellent  fea 
bathing. 

The  pfefent  vifitors  are,  Sir  Hedor  Munfo  of  Novar,  K.  B.; 
Fraiicis  Humberfton  M^Kenzie  of  Seaforth  i  Sir  Hugh  Munro 
of  Fowlls,  Bart.;  Sir  Charlds  Rofs  of  Balnagown,  Bart.;  Sir 
Hedor  M'Kenzie  of  Gairloch,  Bart.;  Donald  M^Leod,  Efq. 
of  Geanies,  {herrifi'-depute  of  Rofs  and  Cromarty ;  Charles 
M'Kenzie,  Efq.  of  Kilcoy;  Kenneth  Murchifon,  Efq.  of  Tar- 
tadale;  David  Urquhart,  ££}.  of  Bhielangwell;  and  Robert 
Bruce  Aneas  M'Leod,  Efq.  of  CadbolL  *  To  thefe,  other  gen« 
tlemen  will  be  added  froth  time  to  time;  who  proVe  bene- 
fiidors  to  the  academy. 

The  adminillrators  will  require  about  jooL  more,  to  com- 
plete their  plan,  in  finifhiog  the  buildings,  purchafing  mathe- 
matical  inftruments,  and  making  up  a  decent  library,  which 
they  hope  yet  to  be  fupplied  with  by  the  liberality  of  the 
ptiblic.  They  find  thait  this  bufinefs  occupies  much  of  thehr 
iime,'  and  has  been  attended  with  no  fmall  perfonal  tr6ttUe  ; 

X  X  a  but 


34^  Statiftlcal  Account 

but  this  they  will  not  regret,  if  it  turn  out,  as  tbej  expert, 
the  general  utility.  The  redor  titaches  the  Greek,  Latin« 
£ngli(h  and  French  languages  ;  the  fecond  mafier,  arithmetic^ 
book-keeping,  geography,  all  the  branches  of  mathematics,  n- 
Tigation,  perfpedive  drawing,  &c.*,  and  »  third  mafter  is  em- 
ployed for  initiating  children  in  the  elements  of  the  Latin  aod 
Engliib  languagesi  writing  and  arithmetic. 

Language. — It  is  fomewhat  remarkable,  that  in  this,  as 
"Well  as  the  neighbouring  partihes  of  Cromarty  and  Ayoch, 
the  minifters  preach  only  in  Engliib,  which  is  the  commoif' 
language  of  the  people  ;  and  it  has  been  remarked  by  travel- 
lers,  that  even  the  lower  fort  of  them  pronounce  it  with  eafe 
and  propriety.     In  this  parifh>  no  Gaelic  is  to  be  found,  but 
among  a  few  fervants  who  come  from  the  Highlands ;  and 
they  foon  acquire  the  J^ngliOi  by  their  refidence  here.     From 
this,  it  (hould  feem,  that  thefe  pariihes  were  not  originally 
peopled  with  natives  of  thefe  northern  regions,  but  by  perfona 
.  who  came  by  fea  to  fettle  here,  invited  by  the  pleafautneft 
.  and  fertility  of  the  country.     Among  thefe,  there  has  pro« 
bably  been  a  mixture  of  Danes* 

Eminent  Men — Sir  George  M*KEKZiBof  Rofehaugb.  that 
eminent  fiatefman  and  able  lawyer,  pafled  a  part  oi  his  timo^ 
at  Fortrofe,  and  had  a  particular  attachment  to  it,  on  account 
of  its  delightful  walks  and  profpefis  JDr.  Gsoaes  M'Keit- 
ZIE,  too,  the  laborious  compiler  of  *^  the  Lives  of  the  moft 
*  eminent  Writers  of  the  Scotch  Nation,"  refided  here,  in  aa 
oldcafile  belonging  to  the  Earl  of  Seaforth,  and  lies  interred  in 
the  tomb  of  that  family  in  the  cathedral.  And  Dr.  James 
M*K£KZir,  who  writes  **  the  Art  of  preferving  Health,"  i:»  laid 
to  have  been  for  fome  time  employed  in  teaching  the  grammar 
fehool  of  the  burgh* 

Di/advantages%. 


-   of  Rofm^rkie^  ^^^ 

iiifadvantages.^t  is  to  be  regretted,  that  the  ftate  of  im-i 
provement,  in  this  and  the  neighbouring  pariQies,  is  ftill  fo 
far   behind,  though  moK  of  the  heritors  have  fet  a  good  ex- 
ample to  their  tenants.     This  proceeds  from  different  caufes. 
The  principal  one  is  the  want  of  leafes,  fu£cientl7  long  to 
encourage  the  people  to  improve  their  farms.   What  induce- 
menr  can  a  farmer  have,  to  be  at  anj  extraordinary  pains  in 
improving  his  |  bScflion,  by  inclofing,  raifing  turnips,  fown 
grafs,  &c.  when,  at  the  expiration  of  a  fhort  tack,  he  muft 
cither  pay  an  additional  rent,  or  be  deprived  of  all  the  fruit» 
•f  his  toil  and  induftrj  ?     Another  ferious  grievance,  to  the 
farmer,  is  the  fcarcity  of  fervants,  and  the  increafe  of  their 
fees.     The  joung  fellows,  for  the  moft  part,  either  go  into 
the  army,  or  travel  to  the  fouth,  where  they  meet  with  better 
living,  and  higher  wages.     It  is  certain,  however,  that  every 
znan  has  naturally  a  flrong  attachment  to  his  native  place, 
which  makes  him  very  unwilling  to  abandon  it.     Surely, 
then,  it  mud  be  the  intereft  of  all  concerned,  to  induce  the 
people  to  remain  at  ^om'e,  by  every  reafonable  encouragement. 
This  will  always  be  found  the  moft  effcdual  method. 

Circumflances  attending  the  Scarcity  iVi  1 7  8  2  -  3  .—In  this  coun- 
try, the  crops  in  a  great  m^afure  failed  in  178a  aod  1783,  which 
were  remarkably  hard  for  the  farmers.  Tet  none  here,  at 
that  time,  were  fuppofed  to  have  died  of  real  famine.  Th6 
white  peafe  and  other  grain  from  Englandt  on  the  event  of 
the  peace,  afforded  a  moft  feafoaable  fupply  to  many  poor  fa- 
milies.  One  thing  remarkable  was,  that  in  thefe  years,  fevere 
ms  they  were,  fewer  were  fick  among  the  pariihioners,  than  have 
been  obferved  before  or  fiqce  ;  which  may  in  a  great  meafure 
be  attributed,  to  their  being  unable  to  fpend  their  money  In 
drinking  fpiritous  liquors,  and  thus  being  obliged  to  llvo 
febcily.    Another  good  effcft  proceeded  alfo  from  this  tem« 

porary 


^  50  Statj/licdl  Account 

'potzrj  fcarcity; — that  various  kinds  of  grain  hating 
then  imported,  from  England  and  other  countries,  thcj  were 
fotVn  in  various  foils,  and  on  different  farms ;  and  accordio^ 
to  the  goodnefs  of  the  produce,  they  were  preferved  snd  con- 
tbued  in  the  country.  The  early  oats  were  particularly  diT- 
tinguiflied,  which,  upon  late  farms,  are  found  to  be  of  the 
greateft  benefit.  This  has  rendered  thofe  farms  far  mare  va~ 
luable  than  they  were  foriherly. 

Farming  Society, — ^It  gives  pleafure  to  the  writer  of  this,  to 
bbferve,  that  within  thefe  few  months,  z  fociety  has  been 
f6rmed,  under  the  name  of  the  Rofslhire  Farming  Society,  of 
which  he  and  fome  other  clergymen  are  meinben,  that  pF€>- 
mifcs  to  be  of  fcrvice  to  the  county.  It  confifts  already  of 
above  jc  members,  who  have  contributed  a  fdm  of  money 
for  the  pubfic  benefit  ^  and  as  it  is  propofcd  to  branch  U  out 
into  feveral  committees,  it  will  probably  prove  more  ^xten-* 
£vely  ufefifl.  In  a  little  time,  it  may  excite  a  fpirit  of  emu- 
lation among  the  pradical  farmers,  who  will  thus  have  an 
opportunity  of  communicating  to  one  another  thei^  obfervt- 
tions  and  experiments,  which  may  be  the  means  of  introducing^ 
valuable  improvements.  Now  that  the  duty  is  taken  off  the 
coals  imported^  to  the  north,  this  will  tend  much  to  forward 
the  views  of  the  fociety,  and  facilitate  the  operations  of  the 
iarmers. 

Propo/ed  Improvements. — ^The  parlfli  of  Kofemarkie  is  ex- 
ceedingly well  fituated,  for  a  manufadure  of  coarfe  linens  or 
Ofuaburghs,  which  might  be  carried  on  here  to  great  advan- 
tage. To  this  branch  the  inhabitanss  are  already  much  ac- 
cuflomed.  The  price  of  (pinning  is  cheap ;  on  which  ac- 
count flax  and  tow  arch rought  here  from  Aberdeen,  to  be 
given  out  to  fpin,  and  the  yarn  returned  by  the  merchants  to 

their' 


of  Refcfoarkis.'    .  55 1 

their  correfpondents;  being  allowed  a  certain  rate  far  commiC* 
fion.  A  good  deal  of  flax  is  rgifed  in  the  pariQi,  which  would 
no  doubt  be  increaCed,  hat  for  want  of  a  lint  mill  to  drefs  it. 
It  would  be  of  conlideral)le  fervice  to  the  people,  to  have  a  pro- 
per one  erededy  by  encouragement  from  the  truQees  for  im- 
provemepts  and  manufaftures,  or  by  anj  of  the  proprietors* 

Aie^Houfes, — ^There  is  every  reafon  to  complain  of  the 
number  of  obfcure  tippling  houCes,  in  this  as  well  as  the  ad« 
jacent  pariihes.  Thefe  have  the  moft  baneful  eSefts  in  injur- 
ing the  healthy  wailing  the  fubftance,  and  debauching  the  mo- 
rals of  the  people.  Many,  by  haunting  them  too  often,  bring 
ruin  on  themfelves  and  their  families.  It  is  much  to  be  wifli-i 
ed,  that  ibme  effedual  courfe  were  devifed  and  pu^  in  execu- 
tion to  cru&  them. 

CharaSffr,,^JThe  minifter,  however,  has  the  fatlsfadion  to 
lay,  that  the  inhabitants  of  the  parilb,  in  gpnieral,  efpecially 
tbofe  of  the  better  fort,  are  Ibber  and  induftrious,  moderate  in 
their  principles,  and  decent  inth^ir  condud;  and  free  from  thofe 
contra&ed  notioQs  and  religious  preju^ces,  which  are  flill  fo 
prevalent  in  more  northern  pari(hes,  anfl  fome  other  parts  of 
Scotland. 


NUMBER 


553^  Stati/lical  Aceou^a 

NUMBER    XXVII. 
PARISH    OF    DENINO. 

{Couffty  and  Synod  of  Fife^-Prejhytery   {/"  Sf.  Andrtojs^ 
fiy  Mr.  William  West^  Stjum  Ckrk  and  Scbaolmafitr. 


Origin  of  the  Nan^e. 

SOME  perfons,  little  lefs  fanciful,  pethaps,  than  inteHif^en^ 
think  that  Denino  derives  its  origin  irom  the  Gaelic 
word  Dumymacb^  whofe  firft  conftituent  lignifies  a  bill^  and  the 
two  Wtt  young  women,  Tas  feminijie  original  ferms,  in  their* 
judgments,  to  be  deducible  from  the  apparent  fimilitudc  of  the 
Gaelic  word  to  the  name  Denino.  Thej  infer,  therefore,  that 
Denino  and  the  Hill  of  Virgins  are  terms  perfedl j  equivalent* 
But  tiroes,  and  manners  too,  are  doi;ibtlefs  ouich  changed  fince 
the  primarjr  impofition  of  this  fo  verj  pure  and  endearing 
title  of  our  parifli.  Unfortunately,  there  is  not  the  lead  cir« 
cumflance,  either  in  tradition  or  record,  tending  to  eftabliik 
the  authenticity  of  this  derivation.  Indeed  no  circumilance 
appears  fo  decifive  of  the  matter  as  the  local  fituation  of  Deni- 
no. The  fimple  confideration  of  its  ilanding  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  a  large  and  deep  den,  where,  in  fight  pppoiicion  to 

it. 


tf  Denim,  ^^ 

iU  two  bv^e  rocks  fecm  tothrtaten  an  embrace  over  tbe  fer- 
cnaial  dream  below*  appears  to  have  naturallj  fuggefted  thp 
name^  Ihmaoj  or,  in  other  words,  the  FUlage  on  the  Hetu 
And»  when  it  is  further  known,  that,  unlefs  in  cafes  of  inac- 
curac^f  or  of  inadvertency^  the  ancient  and  modem  ortho« 
^raphies  of  I>enino  ar^  uniformly  the  fame,  tbe  latter  opi«- 
aion,  with  regard  to  its  original,  mud  appear  the  more  cre- 
dible. The  firli  fyllable  of  .the  word  beii^  attended  with  no 
difficulty,  bj  onlj  admitting  m  4?ommon  tranfpofition,  as  to 
the  two  xemaioing'Onea,  Deaino  and  tbe  Village  on  the  Den, 
will  appear  plainly  fyaoi^moos* 

Siiuatiou  and  Extent. — The  pari(h  lies  among  the  eaftero 
^iftrids  of  the  county  of  Fife^  on  the  road  between  St.  An«r 
^rews  and  Anftruther.  The  extent  of  Oenino  is  uncomnionlj 
circumlcribed,  being  Icarcely  3  miles  in  length,  and  little  more 
4han  half  as  mu«b  in  breadth* 

Figun^  Surfiue^  Riouleis  and  i^.— *The  form  of  tbe  parifii 
is  pretty  regular  ^  diftinguifhed  fay  no  intcrfedtions  from  other 
jiariihes  ;  to  a  good  degree  paralellogramical  \  with  a  largis 
extent  of  its  centre  furroanded  by  circularly  rifiog. ground^ 
which,  being  generally  but  barren,  produces  a  lingular  conca- 
vity of  very  confiderable  fertility.  It  is  b^utifully  inter* 
fperfed  with  a  variety  of  fmall  rivers,  abounding  with  troi^t 
of  various  fpecies  and  of  moderate  fize,  but  of  fapefior  fla^ 
vour.  The  wild  and  protuberant  banks  of  thefe  rivulets,  if 
luitaUy  decorated  with  thofe  diverfities  of  plantation,  with 
which,  to  tbe  honour,  and,  eventually,  to  the  emolument  qf 
their  proprietors,  they  now  begin  ^  be  occupied|^  muft  pr^- 
jent  fcenes  highly  pidnrefque  and  gratifying. 

Vqi..  XI%  y  y  SgU 


354  StatlJHcal  Account 

Soilf  ifc. — — .— This  pariffli^  though  farrounded  onfeverjr 
liand,  almoft,  hy^eztenfive  moor,  dcftitute  nearly  of  what 
j  tntghtp  at  a  vierj  trifling  expence,  compared  with  future  rer 
turns,  contribnte  to  general  gratification  and  indalgenoe,  xi| 
i^ddition  to  the  more  intimate  advantage  and  pleafure  of  hidi« 
Tjdoals,  is  Far  from  being  barren.  Hiongh,  from  the  finall- 
ncfs  of  the  extent,  no  perceptible  variation  of  air,  or  of  di- 
srate, can  b^  naturally  expefted  ;  yet  this  is  not  the  cafe  re- 
fpeding  its  foil,  ulrhich  is  confiderably  diverfified.  Some  of  the 
ground  confifts  of  a  black  and  light,  bi^t  tolerably  fertile  loam, 
refting  upon  n  gravelly  botCpo^ ;  while  a  large  proportion  of 
it  difplajs  a  foil  of  a  deep  and  ftiff  clay,  with  a  bed  of  white 
>nd  light  fand.  The  mod  juft  idea  of  it,  however^  will  be 
ii^  from  the  information,  ifbat  the  foil,  in  general,  is,  in  ft 
great  meafare,  wet  and  fpungy  ;  in  mott  of  the  farms  of  the 
parilh,  frequently  broken  by  large  fwamps  and  fens ;  and, 
though  pretty  well  adapted  for  producing  corn,  is  principally 
remarkable  lor  crops  of  artificial  grafs  and  natural  pafturage. 
Some  of  the  proprietors,  therefore,  availing  themfelves  of  this 
obvious  property  pf  their  eftates  in  this  diftrift,  have,  with 
jBuch  fuccefs,  converted  them  into  thofe  fpecies  of  forms,  fof 
Tpehich  their  lands  are  thi|s  fo  very  well  calculated. 

CUmati  and  Diffafes. — ^Denino,  Iheltered  from  no  quarte^ 
bv  any  confiderable  planting  or  eminences,  except  by  fome 
fifing  ground  toward^  the  S.  W.^  is  often  expofed  to  great 
winds  ifrom  the  fea,  whioh,  blowing  with  great  force  and 
Aarpnefs,  concur  with  the  natural  coldnefs  of  the  foil,  in  ren- 
dering the  frequent  humidity  and  bleaknefs  of  the  climate^ 
the  more  fenfibly  felt.  Tht  air  and  climate  are,  however,  of 
Inch  a  nature  and  temperature,  as  to  occafion  but  few  intei'- 
ruptions  in  the  health  and  native  gaiety  of  the  people,  th«t 
rheumatifoa  and  byfteric  comnlainu  bcbg  the  chieJF  diforders 


^iioh  occor.  ^t  inhabittfnts,  though  dominoolj  bealtbji 
tad  maoj  of  them  long-lived^  fiiraiiU  no  inftaoces  of  remarks 
Idde  loagevitj. 

Miurab  atki  Mineral  tVoiers.-^CiM  (^tmit  f rodi  the  vail 
iininber  of  old  pits  in  varioas  places  of  the  parifli«  to  havet 
fome  time  ^o,  been  a  vetj  plentifdl  article  he^  There 
is  ftiU,  it  is  faid,  plenty  of  it  in  feveral  eftates  of  this  diftria  $ 
bot  it  is  uneertain  when  any  of  its  proprifctdrtf  will  open  tbefe 
tninesi'  or  rattiefy  whether  their  future  gaind  would  compen« 
fate  the  expenditure  neeeflary  for  that  piirpofe*  Free*ftone  ia 
a)lb  foiind  in  much  abundance ;  but,  thougH  of  an  eafy  accefs^ 
and  of  a  tolerable  good  ^uality^  it  is  leldom  called  for  beyond 
the  limits  df  the  pariih.  The  cre6tioa  and  reparation  of  en^ 
dofuresy  particularly  on  Sir  William  Erikine's  efiate  of  Cieni- 
ho,  and  the  building  of  his  tenants  fubfiantial  premifesf  are  th6 
chief  Ufcs  to  which  it  has  hitherto  been^  aiid  is  ftill  occafiou'^ 
ally  applied.  There  is  an  uncommon  variety  of  places  in 
the  parifh,  where  ochre  ii  fddnd,  particularly  at  ti  number  ot 
ehalybeate  fprings.  Between  30  and  40  jears  agoi  thefe 
%ipcte  mneh  reforted  to«  for  relief  in  diforders,  chiefly  fcorbutic  9 
but  of  late  they  have  loft  much  of  their  former  celebri^^ 
though^  td  all  appearaneci  very  undefervedly; 

Cirri^/fri.— Towards  the  S.  W.  end  of  the  parifli  of  De^^ 
hino,  theire  is  a  moft  remarkable  fall  of  water,  of  probably 
near  to  feet,  from  the  (helve  of  the  rock  to  the  common  CxuT'^ 
face  of  the  very  deep  pond,  into  which,  among  a  vaft  ndmbet' 
of  the  finny  race,  (and  which,  according  to  the  conjedures  of 
the  inhabitants,  forms  the  boundary  of  their  joumeyfaig  up* 
wards,)  it  pours  almoft  perpendicuiarly.  This  fall,  from  fomu 
itidicrousy  but  perhaps  nataraU  analogies^  has,  for  time  im« 

Y  y  ft  memoriali 


35^  S/ati/tkal  Accdmf 

Memorial,  been  cooftandjr  known  by  a  very  marked  tppeHrfbii!^ 
To  the  pond  below  there  is  no  acced,  but  up  either  fide  of 
the  headlong  current,  overhung  by  rocks,  fome  of  ikem  im* 
minenC  and  dreadful ;  while  the  immediate  entrance  to  the 
))ond  lis  tiarrowed,  by  the  feemingly  artificial  and  mirtiial  pro-i 
}feftion  of  two  focks^  ereded  in  the  form  of  pods,  de&rnod  for 
doors  and  hinges !  The  only  artificial  curioftty,  is  a  ftibterrm- 
neous  caaal,  of  nearly  30  yard^  in  kngth,  of  betwven  4  and  5 
feet  of  an  average  breadth  and  height^  and  dug  from  the  one 
end  to  the  other,  under  a  folrd  and  continued  rock  of  fVee* 
fione,  about  10  yards  from  the  furfk:e  of  a  large  piece  6£ 
hrable  ground,  aduaUy  peninfnlvr.  This  Very  ingenions  con-* 
crair,'\^bich  forms  the  peculiar  haunt  of  a  fbw  otters,  was,  about 
So  years  ago,  effeftuated  by  one  of  the  then  refiditog  heritors, 
with  an  intention  of  conducing,  through  below  the  founda- 
tions of  this  ifthmus,  an  increafe  of  water  to  bis  mSI,  tn  ha 
remote  vicinity.  The  ezpence,  attending  the  atchievemeot 
of  fnch  an  aftoniihing  piece  of  work,  was  no  led  than  tlre9 
pounds  Sterlings  and  a  hott  of  mealt  and  f6r  tht  damage  occ»* 
tloned  by  the  inUtke^  as  it  is  ironically  called,  there  is  fl^ll  an 
"yearly  i^lowance  of  as*  and  3  firlots  of  oats,  madi;  by  tbe 
tenant ,  of  the  above  mill,  to  a  tenant  of  another,  through 
whofe  hitm  the  water  runs,  befbre  its  difappearance  in  the 
mouth  of  its  invifibk  receiver.  There  are  two  or  three  echoes 
to  be*  met  with  in  the  pariib,  which  merit  no  de&ription. 

Population.'^The  pari&  records  of  Denino  extend  back  only 
to  a  little  before  the  middle  of  laft  century ;  and  it  is  fome- 
thing  curious  to  obferve,  that  the  date  of  population  was  then 
very  litde  above  what  it  is  at  prefent.  From  1771  till  to- 
wards 1778,  the  popuhtion  of  the  di(!rid  of  Denino  appears 
gradually  to  have  decreafed,  till  it  aflbmed  its  prefdit  feem- 

ingly 


of  Dcnino.  357 

inglj  fettled  ftate  \  The  total  amount  of  fotsb,  wilJi  TarioM 
ptber  circuoiftancc^  relating  to  the  date  of  Che  parilH,  accord* 
iog  to  a  very  recent  and  exad  calculation,  are  as  under : 


Statistical  TTable  of  the  Pari/b  of  Denino. 


JLe^gdi  10  Engfifli  milet, 

3 

Aver,  ditto,  from  174%  to  iys%^    a^ 

Breadth,  not  ({idee 

% 

^opuUtioD  in  2755, 

59» 

383 

death.,  .    t  7 

^^^        -dL-^  births  from  1780  to  1790,    xo 

Decreale,  -  ai5        marriages,fromdo.  todd.    t  ^ 

Aver.  Births,  from  1^43  to  X653,      S        deaths,  from  d^  to  do.    -      § 

InhAbitautt 

*For  fosie  time  preceding  the  middle  of  the  prefcnt  century,  the  principal 
yart,  if  not  the  whole,  o{  the  pari(h  hnibandry  was  performed  by  cottagers;  who 
cnjojed,  as  a  material  perquifite  of  their  ferrices,  a  fmall  portion  of  hmd.— * 
The  pariih  alfo  abounded  with  penOcUn^  at  inferior,  tenants.  Thde>  therefore 
nod  the  cotugen,  together  with  a  confiderahle  nvmber  of  teiilies  employed  iv 
A*  eoal  mines^  bvt  moft  of  all,  the  diviiion  of  farms,  and  employing  of  hired 
fcrtants  in  their  enltivation,  contribnted  much  to  the  multiplication  of  the  in- 
babitaots;  and  haaco  it  « etfy to  perceive  the  tiaufca  «f  lb  remaricable  a  depo-' 
palation ;  which  is  a  natural  confequcnce  of  the  union  of  farmsr  More  thas 
30  inhabited  houfes  ezifted  in  theparifh,  aboaC  half  a  century  ago,  of  [whicb 
fcarcely  a  fingle  Teftige  now  remains.  It  may  be  remarked  &rther,  diat  the 
converfioo  el  a  very  large  extent  of  the  didriA  into  graft  farms,  has  operated 
very  materiaHy  to  the  decreafe  of  the  people,  by  employing  a  much  (mailer 
Bomber  of  f^srvuts  of  either  fejt.  * 

fThis  is  the  average,  after  making  a  proportional  dedudion,  for  the  many 
lorials  from  other  parilhes,  that  take  place  here,  on  account,  it  is  faid,  of  the 
fupeiiority  of  our  burial-ground.  In  the  above  averages,  the  baptifms,  marri* 
ages,  and  burials  of  the  inhabitants  of  Kings  Muir  are  included;  it  being  found 
impoffibte,  from  the' connexion  they  neceflarily  had  with  Deniao,.  to  make  any 
esad  difcrtmination  from  the  records* 

tThe  number  of  births,  marriages,  and  deaths,  for  xo  yean»  in^medlatdy 
preoeding  1 790,  are  as  followf : 

4  Ttarj 


\ 


3i^ 


Stat^fol  Jia^uhi 


InhitoMits  id  DeaaliOi 
•— — —  Kiagt  Mair, 
Homber  ol  makt  iii  OemnOi 

—  fcmtto, 

pcrfont  under    lo 
/ears  of  age 
'  between  xo  and  io, 

—  -^—  ao  and  50, 

■  — —  50  and  70, 

■  -— — —  7oandzoOt 


■  I  ■    «        honfes  inhabiced»  tf 

bout 
Atct.^  perfoot  in  cacb,  nearlj 
number  o£  honics  uninhabiied, 

■  sew   honfes  lately 

built, 
^tm^^mmm^^  married  penoBti     - 
'■  children,  at  an  aver- 

age,irom  each  mar- 
riage, 
^  married 

boYe4i» 


ftSO 
XJ3 
107 
113 

«5 

SI 

n 

4 

3« 
6 
6 

I 
88 


Nnmbcrof  widowf, 

I  membertof  tlleEftar 

bUihed  Church,    - 

^— ^ ^  Burgher  Secedei^ 

■    Relief  ditto, 
T  perfoni  born  out  of 

the  parifli,        • 
'         '  '      fropnetorsi  • 

■■   «     clergymen, 
*•    ichoolmafteni, 
i^  farmcra.ataooLper 

annum, 
do.  at  joLandt^ 


X51 
xi 

s 

144 

i 

4 
I 
i 


-  do.  between  aoLand 

•  ihopkeepen,        * 

-  isnkeepcn, 
-finitht, 

-  tarpenten^  * 


5 

s 

X 

I 


MiaiMr 


1780 
X781 
X78ft 
1783 
1784 
X785 
178^ 
X787 
X788 
X789 


lUTUt. 
ZZ 

ii» 
z8 

9 

XI 

8 

10 

xo 

14 

4 


Total  within  xo  years,    •    to6 
AYcnge,  nuxlft        -        xr 


■AKRZAUKS 

3 

4 

ft 
X 
6 

3 
X 

s 

X 
2 


skat: 


ffamhtr  ^wmjnHt  4  Kumberof  yoongpcrfiuutuight 

.■n   .    .1.  tailori*,           -  3  EogUflisWsiting^ltc.    40 

i             ■      milleri,        -  -  4  J               ■  acwt,  in  Knglifl^  ipea" 

.      — male  fcnrtnti,  -  ^  fiire,            -            9280 

>  female  ditto,  -  IX  cartt,          -         •        S4 

-  flax-<litflera9  -  t  — ■■  ■■  ■■   plought,           t            ^ 

•  a]»premicciy  r  »  Vafaied  rent^  in  Scotch 

-  day-Uboiirerf»  .  r  ^  mone^,          n           ^3^4^  6s.  84* 

•  poor,         -  "3  Rf»l  rent,  mnao  1795, 


Capita]  of  their  fondf,        -        ZioU  in  ^terlingy       -        zZ57hof.o4; 

4^^nnnal  income,        •  -       12L 

Proprietors^  Rents^  and  Improvements.'-^on^  of  the  pro^ 
pnetors  refide  in  the  parilh.  A  few  remains  of  the  vtrj  an- 
pient  and  venerable  feats  of  their  progenitors  lie  in  it,  in  the 
wildeft  ft  ate  of  ravage  and  of  Gothic  defolatlon  ;  and  whicb, 
whether  re/lored  according  to  their  former  conftitution^.  or 
after  a^modern  and  more  refined  plan,  ninft,  at  any  rate,  af- 
ford bnt  indifferent  accommodation  for  their  more  illuftrioiis 
fucceflbrs.  There  is  a  fmall  farm  in  this  pariih,  of  27  acres, 
belonging  to  the  kirk-fef&on  of  Elj,  a  confiderable  village 
about  5  miles  S.  of  thisj  and  there  are  ^  feuers  in  it,  whofe 
fen-dntjy  to  Mi(s  Scott  of  Scotftarvet,  for  about  11  acres 
of  pretty  good  ground,  is  51.  2s,  4Td.  Within  lels  than  30 
years,  the  landed  property  of  the  diftrift  of  Denino  has  un- 
dergone frequent  changes,  and  has  always  been  attended  with 
confiderable  augmentations  in  the  purchafe.  The  whole  rental 
pt  a  confiderable  eftate  in  it,  little  more  than  ao  years  ago, 
was  only  Z96I,  per  annumy  though  now  it  draws  no  leb  tfaaa 

500L 

?  le  it  fimiewbat  ranarkable..  tfatt  thera  iwtther  are,  nor  have  been,  for  9a 
pnksown  tiiM  paft,  any  JhmaJktn  in  the  pariih  of  Denino,  notwithfianding  of 
the  inceflant  demand  for  their  fenricet  in  every  other  place.  To  remedy  at 
much  as  poflible,  however,  (his  inconvenience,  the  parilhionert  are  far  from  be- 
ing defpicable  aumfer^  of  flioet.  The  circnmlbnce  of  being,  at  the  neareft,  j 
fJdn  diiUot  from  any  wnihrs,  bat  taught  them  thit  article  of  ingenuity. 


.j6o  S/a^/lk^  Juount 

50ol.  a  fMET*  The  Mwnige  price  of  the  whole  fuiSk  it  ■— riy 

tcs.  6d.  in  acre ;  good  &nns  letliiig  at  about  xjs.  per  acre, 
ft  an  avenge.  The  very  1>eft  mxj  be  about  ll. ;  the  fecond 
about  I2s.i  while  the  inferior  kind  is  not  worth  more  than 
js«  an  acre*  Laft  year,  a  confiderable  ellate  herct  tfaon|^  al- 
snoft  wholly  nniaclofed  at  die  timei  was  foU  for  5,000  ^lu* 
veas,  which  yf%%  no  lels  than  35  years  pnrchafe,  Wtat  has 
chiefly  oantributed,  to  raife  the  price  of  land  to  fuch  a  degree, 
is  the  now  general  praAice  of  inoloiing,  which  only  commea- 
ced  in  this  diftrift  about  ao  years  ago,  but  ever  fioce  has 
made  the  moft  rapid  advances,  Moft  of  theinclofures  of  the 
parifh  coniift  of  dry  ftone  dikes,  topped  with  a  ftony  layer, 
of  ftonee  placed  upon  their  edges,  and  the  whole  caft  with 
lime.  InclofureSy  confifting  c€  ditch  and  hedge,  likewife  go 
fad  forward,  and  are  paving  the  way  for  an  univerfal  emula« 
lion  on  thofe  grounds,  which  beft  agree  with  fuch  kinds  af 
indofurcs^^-The  valued  and  real  rents  of  the  whole  diftrifi 
are  ftated  in  the  table*  In  calculating  th^  latteci  the  lens  are 
'  not  included. 

jlgricttburt.'^TYiCTc  is  only  a  fmall  proportion  of  the  .pa-» 
rifli  under  grain ;  but  that  (mall  part  is  well  cultivated.  Dur- 
ing the  fbort  '%>ace  of  ao  years  paft,  the  date  pf  our  cultiva- 
cion  has  undergone  very  confiderable  improvement;  infomucbt 
that  the  ground,  which  formerly  was  let  for  about  as.  6d.  an 
acre,  on  an  average,  is  now  rented  at  near  146.  an  -acre ;  and, 
even  at  this  rate,  it  is  thought  fuffioiently  cheap*  There  ia 
l^erhaps  fomething  in  the  management  of  the  grals  farms  in 
the  parifh  worthy  of  remark :  Of  fuch  (mall  portions  of  them, 
-as^arcfbldy  oocupied  by  eats  and  barley,  the  ipecies  of  graia 
for  which  their  foil  is  ntrtorally  adapted,  Che  cenants  are  pro- 
hibited from  taking  anjr  ffiore  than  two  crops  running ;  and 
of  thefe  fiirms  allb|  which  are  almoft  all  arablci  about  a  fixtb 

.part 


"tf  l)emnak 


^6i 


yatt  IS  annusdij  tinder  the  above  fpecies  of  crops ;  the  one 
half*  or  near  it,  is  to  be  yearly  fown  down  with  clover  and 
tye^gra(!i«  This  fingakr  rotation  maft  be  uniformly  and 
punftually  obferved.  There  being  fcarcely  any  cattle  nfed ' 
in  hnibaodry  here,  and  only  5  cottagers  employed  in  it,  who 
liave  portions  of  land  for  part  of  their  labour,  the  hired  fer- 
>rant  cultivates  his  fields  with  a  middle  fized  horfes  yoked  in 
'm  plough,  which  U  aln&oft  tmifbrmlj  of  the  Englilh  conftruc* 

tl09« 

Annual  produce*. 


Cr^,. 

PrtdMu 

per  Aert 
BoUi. 

I.     s.     d. 

SoUt. 

1.      i;        i. 

Dats, 

Barleys 
Peafe, 

Wheat, 
Poutoes, 

3-9 
"3 

li 

9 

ti 

z8 

to. 

k 

a 
7 

soo 

m 

3  la    0 
3  14    6 
0  11    6 
i     I     0 

050 

0  to    0 

3  »S    • 

0     0     5 
pirSi. 

1945 

196 

»43 

XI67       0       0 

491   IZ      0 

61  17    6 

ao5  x6    0 

60  15    0 

Flax, 

Turnips, 

Sowo  Gials,     1 

Hsj,              J 

Si.  z8o 
at,8oo 

90  '  0    # 
65  10    0 

454     3     4 

J9.3918 

C^»73 
U5a8 

Straw,  as.  per  '[ 

boll  of  com,       1 
Pafture,  at        ' 
51.  per  horfe,  J 
ft  L  per  cow,    j 

fix 

* 

3596  la  10 
291  1$    0 

Sot    0    0 

3(89    8  10 

VouXI. 


2ft 


VALUX 


•The  abeve  Iketdi  of  the  inonsl  ptodace  of  the  ptrilh  may  he  of  Cervice,  la 
IripiDg  to  form  a  conception  of^fimilar  articles  in  dioft  diibiA^  from  which- 
l»%oftf^Hff  thckioAiaayhatthcoBgiftaia. 


^^  Sfa/i/^al  Account 

tALUE  OP  STOCK. 

Sliim1>er  of  draught  horlcs     -    63,    Taloed  at 
^1    ■    ■■    '   fiddle  ditto,        •       3,  ■ 

,■  ■    I      «  ■  beft  cattiB,       •      9*»    ■^^■•••■^w 

■  ii  inferior  dkto    •     174,  . 

■  ■  firtfie,  -  x8;  ■ 

Total  ?aluc  of  fipd^       •       «       •       « JL.«474 

Pq/lth^agi,  Sbiip^  l^c»— From  a  fiirvey  of  the  aboro  tables, 
St  appears,  that  there  j^e  ooljr  al^out  7^1  aprea  of  the  pariik 
•f  Denino  under  real  crops*  There  are  fully  180  acres  of 
perfeft  moor  ui  it,  of  bo  ufe,  uuleis  perhaps  for  planting,  of 
which  it  18  hitherto  deftitute.  The  ps|riih  is,  howerer,  adoni« 
cd  with  nearlj  60  acres. of  planting,  eonfifting,  in  a  great  de^ 
gree,  of  ftripes,  as  tl^ej  are  callsyi,  and  judieiouflj  enough  de> 
figned  for  cherishing  the  ogld  gtounds,  where  they  flourilb  ta 
lieautiful  and  pltntifal  rarietj^  There  are,  in  the  laft  plact» 
generally  about  40  acres  of  fallow  ii^  die  pariih ;  ib  ihat^  if 
£roni|.  aaSo  acres,  which  the  whole  ^iftf i^  0$  DeninooMUifis» 
we  4pdurft  99Z,  the  ninnbertuider  corft,  fUloW|  &c,  &e.  tibere 
will  appear  a  balance  of  1289  acres  of  n^ituxal  and  artificial 
]pafturage.f  upon,  the  laft  diviiion  ^  which,  great  numbers  of 
•xcdknt  cattle  are  £^,  during  the  fommer,  by  the  grazierst 
and  either  occafionally  difpofed  of,  to  the  itinerant  merehant^ 
or  driven  to  the  country  markjets.  The  number  of  iheep  io 
Ae  parifli  does  not  excee4  ao  \  th^  are  kept  and  ftd  by  fome 
of  th9  farmers,  for  their  own  ufe  only,  during^  tb^  fumai^r. 

Prices  of  Zabour  and  Prov^<wi/.— From  a  view  of  the 
table  of  the  annual  produce,  it  appears,  that  the  pariih  muft 
do  confiderably  nK>re  than  maintain  its  inhabitants.  The  ave- 
tagc  pricea  of  the  feveraj  fpeclcs  oj^  g^rain,  thorein  fjecjfied. 


i  Itcttei  fls  ¥egalated  hj  tlie  county  fiats ;  or  rftAer,  T>7  tb« 
^{ciieral  ftate  of  the  market. — ^The  yearly  wages  of  a  labotiring 
nttt-fervkift,  are  7L;  andthofe  of  n 'womaci/sL  The  day. 
Imboorer  has  t$.  a  day,  wkhoirt  ipeat ;  Is.  %i^  per  acre^  for 
4iay  ciitliiig;'Biidfar  making  dittos  or  for  titrnip  hoeing,  either 
hy  makis  or  femaks^  6d«,  end  foAiet!mes  yd.  -per  day.  The 
|irice  of  t  goole  here  is  eo&motdjr  js.;  a  hen,  ks.;  and  eggs^ 
5fd.  a'ddssen ;  butkr  URs  at  8d»,  and  cheefe  from  3d.  to  6d# 
.per  poand ;  pigeohs,  ^d.  a  puir  ^  chickens  at  4d.  each ;  rah- 
^ts,  {aninuils  v^ry  conttmott  in  thb  parifli  of  Dehtnoj,  at  6d. 
^  paftr,  without  Ae  Ikin  |  and  'tetdher  meat,  unirer^ny,  af -^d^ 
^^fiDund* 

3t4elefiq/lkut  5/^f(p.«-»Tlle  manft;,  dmoR  thrown  down  froAi 
4he  ibuadation,  and  Tebuilt,  on  a  durable  conftni6Hon,  about 
tte  year  t74i,  is  a  tolerably  decent  bo^zfe,  a  florifs  high, 
vndicontams  6  moderately  good  rooms,  with  a  kitchen,  aifd 
'Anne  otter  apartments*  Since  its  1si|  erection,  it  has  un« 
flergbtoe  ^rtry  taany  repairs.  The  glebe  contams  littb 
teore  than  4I  acres  of  Englifli  meafurCf  worth  aboiit  li.  tc$» 
jper  acre,  if  duly  cnltivated.  The  ilipeod  confids  of  24I.  in 
inoney,  with  5  chalders,  or  80  bolls  of  vidnal ;  the  one  half 
ineal,  and  the  other  bear.  The  whole  annual  income,  ex- 
idnfive  of  the  manfe,  and  a  toflerably  good  garden,  is  ^bout 
90I.  Stetliog.  The  church  is  one  of  the  fmalleft  of  country 
churches,  perhaps,  with  an  aile,  and  afrnfll  porcb  by  one  of  its 
front  doors.  It  is  uncertain  when  it  was  built ;  but yo^^  perfoni 
are  peribflly  fure  of  its  having  been  very  lately  and  very  ma« 
feriaSy  repaired.  Mr.  James  Br0WK,  ordained  13th  May 
9790,  is  the  prefent  minifier  of  Pen;no, 

£rioo/.— .The  fchool-houfe  is  a  very  (hort,  low,  thatched 
^oufcy  ^fid^  Chough  not  very  old,  a  very  crazy  edifice.    Tha 

Zz%  icho<4. 


5^4  Staytiud  ctwnt 

Ibhool*  xtTf  fofMptely  for  the  health  of  the  tncfber*  «•  wA 
as  of  tbole  who  aie  taught,  is  large^  and  capable  of .  outaiao^ 
a  few  Qfeore  fchokrs,  bffidcs  the  paroohial  onea?  a  great  nuaa- 
bciroC  ^whom  convttoaly  attend  it.  ^tfides  a  vary  good  gas^ 
deii«  o£  8  by  xm  paoea*  tba»  ia  a  Calary  of  too  mcrka 
(51,  IS9»'  oid.  Sto^iofc)*  aod  tl|e  feffion*  clerk's  Saea,  wbicia 
amount  to  al.  ija*  8d.j  with  an  occafional  gratuitj  of  5s* 
.  S,terling,  at  the  difpenratipn  of  the  Loi;d*s  Supper,  for  eztcaov- 
dioary  ikiging.  be  feea  for  teaehing  are,  for  £nglifli«  is.  3d.; 
for  readiug.and  wntiiag,  xs«'*6d«$  for  arithmetic,  ls*i  and  for 
^Aio,  a^ .  64*  Other  faraaches  of*  educatioQ  are  feldom  da- 
fired  ;  and  eren  the  laft  not  very  frequently.  Moft  of  ihc 
people  have  a  laudable  ambition  to  have  their  children  edu- 
cated ;  and  tli^e  .payattaot  of  the  quarter,  fees  ia  fcascely  ever 
grudged*  though  often  pkxi,  with  a  good  dq^re^  of  tar(litte6» 
arMtag  from  ^  aftnal  penury  of  iat^  of  the  parents.  The 
dues  on  a  proclanxatim  oi  marriage,  are  ^s.  ^.  when  rega^ 
)ar,  pne  third  whereof  goes  to  the  beadle ;  and^  wben  irregn- 
|ar,  or  performed  in  ihorter  time  than  thf  church  ftandarda 
didate,  an  additional  gratuity  is  commonly  given  by  the 
employers.  The  dues  on  .  each  baptiim  are  29«>  of  which  dio 
beadle  gets  jld.;  sod  tbore  on  certificates  a^  6d,  each,  of 
which  the  beadle  hs^s  no  (hare.  The  feffion-cle^k  has  alf<^ 
4d.  each  for  rcgifirating  burial^.  Qi^  annual  income,  altoge^ 
tber,  does  not  exceed  -aal*,  at  an  average,  one  year  with  ano« 
ther.  Such,  howeyer,  is  the  liberal  provifipD  allotted  for  th^ 
far  greater  part  of  thoie  members  of  fociety,  fi:om  whofe  fer* 
vices  mufl  ever,  fundamentally,  proceed  whatever  is  elegant 
atid  refpedable  in  the  lives  a^d  mauners  ^f  their  feUovfr 
citizens. 

Poor.<^Tbe  large  coutributions  formerly  made  for  the  poor 
herc^  and  the  £maU  diib^rlemeatSi  haycf  railed  t^e  f  relent  ca^ 

pitri 


ff  2)tnin9.  j6y 

flttl  of  their  fendtf  to  i^ol. ;  which  is  lodged  ytattlj  io  tho 

booids  of-  a  leiidcd  proprietor^  partly  in  fome  of  the  ^Banks, 

acid  draws  intereft,  copimoaly  at  4i  ^r  cent.  pc)r  anniim, 

XiiiSt  with  the  we^j  coUeftions  at  church,  which  are  about 

as.  each  Subbath,  at  an  average^  and  the  dues  ariling  from  thia 

two  pattst  (chie  one  of  which  produoes  58«  and  the  other  xs. 

4Sfd*  from  the  funerals  at  which  thej  are  i|fed)f  may  raife  the 

annual  income  of  the  poor  to  about  i%h    Each  of  the  poor 

lias  nearly  7id.  erery  week ;  but  their  penfions  are  propor^ 

f ioned,  notwitbftanding,  to  their  ocqalional  neoeffities.    What 

of  their  yearly  incoqi^  remains  thus  unezhaufted,  is  expend* 

^  in  the  payn^ent  of  £dartes ;  fuch  as,  the  feffion-clerk*s« 

the  bcadle^Sy  the  preibytery  clerVs,  &cc.  &c. ;   with  Tarioua 

^pairs  abo^t  the  church,  the  fchool,  and  Ichool-houfe ;  and  erea 

aboot  the  public  bridges  of  the  psrifli*     Thefe  repairs,  how« 

f  ver,  devolve  upon  the  kirk-feffion,  who  defray  thefe  ezpencea 

only  in  fuch  cgies  as  they  judg^  unworthy  of  an  application 

to  the  heritors  of  the  parifli.    But,  at  any  rate,  thofe  who 

have  theif  &lariea  as   above,  paid   from   the  poor's   funds, 

are  perhaps  equally  neceifitous  with  thofe  for  whom   thej 

wens  originally  deftincd.     Upwards  of  15I.  was  expended 

lately  in  the  purchafe  of  a  new  pail,  without  touching  th# 

poor's  capitaL 

jintiquitiiSf  C^r.— -It  is  affirmed,  that  there  are  fome  relict 
pf  antiquiiy  in  the  panib,  but  they  happen  to  exift  more  ia 
|he  imaginations  of  the  credulous  antiquary,  aided  by  fuper* 
(litious  report,  than  otherwife.  There  are  only  two  even  of 
thefe :  the  one  is  a  Qruidical  temple,  which  is  laid  to  hayo 
flood  \n  the  vicinity  oji  a  plape  called  Balietbly  i  from  whicbf 
^in  the  opinion  that  Baal,  the  Sidonian  deity,  and  the  Grod 
^tyezebilf  was  worihippd  there),  it  is  alTerted  to  have  de« 
fived  its  name.  Of  ituf  JDiuidical  temple  n^t  the  919ft  lmallef( 

veftigQ 


^  Statijtimi  Aitomi 

i^eftH^e  (cias  tiov  lie  TeMh— w^Tte  ot1ierYiip[16rei  stui^iii^r 
is  a  Roman  camp  \  which  it  Add  Co  give  smb*  tt>  a  plsoe  nair 
ft,  called  CbeJIuM.  Hiet«  atfe.  It  it  troe^  fiotte  vcFf  "vifikk 
tiiarks  of  this  ancient  tatttnobvMttt  \  Imk  iaft^ft  <rf  l>cng 
iwhar  it  is  vnlgarij  bctievtd  |o  he,  k  appeals,  on  a  piopcr 
iriew  of  ciroimftatioesy  to  be  in  reality  no  znoie  than-*  hoiaie- 
%j  drain  from  a  number  of  oU  coal-pits  !  TThe  ieeming  cab* 
formity  of  Ohtjlui  to  certain  £oglfii  nalnes,  fooh  as,  Obijht^ 
'Cold>€ftir^  Uc.  lays  a  foundatidD  for  the  ingembns  coiijeftnrcs 
^f  feveral  kamed  anci^aries.  ^anj  pf  the  names  of  places, 
liowever,  in  the  panfli  of  I>emno,  are  evidently  of  Celtic  dew 
aivation^  fuoh  as,  Sify^  KinaUy^  Straviiiy^  lie*  Moft  dC 
them,  however,  are  obvioufly  of  Engliih  origiD,  and  fignifip 
eant  of  their  local  fitnations }  as,  Bpnnjfield^  i^Hi^o/},  Fot&^ 
Jhne^/M^  am}  the  like. 

i}^/feA«ft^/>.*^The  leading  fol^eft  of  eompkitat,  wJth  Htm 
iifferMTclafles  of  onr  parifhioners,  is  the  fcarctty  of  eaah^ 
(the  only  atrticle'of  thcpatiih  fuel),  even  in  die  ktni^f  cmJI 
By  the  fielfifiinefs  of  individuals,  tlie  people  here  feem  to  be^ 
In  a  great  meafure,  lexcltided  from  thofe  ineftimable  and  aei» 
ceflary  flwonrs,  lb  lib^lly  poured  around  them,  by  the  bcw 
nignity  and  wifdomof  the  Almighty,  for,  notwidiftaadinf 
the  great  quantity  of  coals  formerly  raiiiNi  in  our  immediate 
neighbourhood,  the  (pirit  of  monopoly  has  for  many  year^ 
paft  dfsprived  us  of  this  bounty  of  ptovidente^  and  it  is  faar4 
to  fay  how  long  the  fame  fpirit  may  continue  to  afflifi  the 
poor  of  this  parifli ;  the  principal  proprietor  of  the  coal-minea 
bere  having  entered  into  an  agreement  with  the  proprietor  of 
an  adjoining  colliery,  to  keep  his  own  coal-works  (but  til| 
thofe  of  the  dther  {hall  be  cdmpletely  ezhaixfted  \  in  retuni 
for  Which  the  other  has  bound  himfelf,  and  his  heirs,  &c.  t6 
pay  him  an  annuity  of  ao  1.  a-year  \    Thus  the  poor  of  thia 

parijbt 


r.'» 


ffmltkf  U  MbQ  •$  the  adjac^t  00011017^  ut  dqirived  of  %  bleK 
$i^  evukniljj  mtcoded  for  them  bj  Providence  ;  and  oUig. 
^  to  purchafe  fiad  from  a  confiderable  diflance,  at  a  highetf 
yoWf  mi  ^  aivorfe  qoalilj^  To  this  eflfeotial^  and  ftem^ 
V»glj  iiamnadiabk  grievaooe,  maj  be  added,  miUMrlage^^ 
whidbtf  hoii«i9er»  are  not  fp  mtidi  Mt  ia  tiua  as  in  oihes 


KING'S    MUIR. 


JffirM^,  Prmlegei,  t/r.  This  is  a  very  extenfive  traft  of' 
groundv  containing  more  than  loeo  acres.  It  is  called  King*s 
Alidrf  on  account  of  its  beings  fome  time  after  the  rcftoration  o£ 
Charles  II.  conferred  bj  that  Prince  upon  one  CqL  Borthwick, 
who  had  attended  hin\ui  his  adventures  and  exile,.  ptfevioii(l]Ft» 
his  attainment  of'  the  throne,  as  a  reward  for  his  attachment 
ahd  fervices.  This  ils  the  account  given  of  its  origin,  by  Mr  J 
HannO|  the  prefent  proprietor.  Moft  of  the  ground  o£.  tbiSb 
a|icieat  rqjal  donatbn  is,  ^  its  naipe  inlinuaies^  extieiB^ 
wild  in  appearance ;  though,  upon  the  wholes  BMieh  le&  un* 
fertile  than  might  be  ezpefted.  The  proprietor,  however^ 
if  of  opinion,  that,  taking  all  of  it  together,  it  is  not  worth 
i^re  than  is.  $d.  an  acre ;  while  others  rate  it  much  higher* 
Xt  is  wboUj  exempt  from  affeflment ;  and  the  circumftanoc  off 
its  not  yielding  either  minifter's  ftipend  or  fchoolmafter's  ia* 
brj,  feems,  in  the  conjeftnres  of  manyi  to  have  cbflbd  ie 
with  no  pariQi  whatever.  Its  inhabitants  have,  nevertbelaftf 
eiliier  from  their  vicinity  to  our  church,  or  the  popolari^  o0 
its  minifters,  always  confidered  themfelves  as  pariihioBers  ofi- 
Oenino,  in  the  moft  decided  preHerence  te  Crail ;  b  whofe' 
puriik  they  are  aflferted,  by  a  fiew,  to  be  legally  included.  As 
the  picfeat  laird  ^i  Eing'a  Muir  has  aot  his  charter  by  him^ 

wc 


'^6i  Statffticaljteawit 

we  flitll  levre  die  detenoinarion  of  this  eontroTerijr,  to  tWd 
who  may  think  it  worth  the  inveftigfttion*  It  may  not  bo 
mmils  to  oUenre,  however,  that  although  the  people  of  Ktog'a 
Moir  haveJI  for  time  immemorial,  oonnefted  themfdvea  widi 
the  diftrift  of  Dentno^  pi^adjaera ;  yet  there  is  a  little  fhrm^ 
fitoaced  between  this  parifli  and  it,  which  pays  ftipend  to  tfaa 
sninifter  of  Crail,  as  he  himfelf  (ays,  though  perfeftly  unooiu 
seded  with  King's  Muir,  and  belonging  to  a  diflEierefit  pro« 
prietor.  The  moft  fertile  parts  of  King's  Muir  are  parodied 
out  into  ImaU  farms,  let  by  the  lump,  to  peffons,  moft  of 
whom  are  either  tradefmen,  or  work,  during  a  great  pait 
of  the  year,  by  day-labpur.  The  populatiou  of  it  is  us  «a« 
dcr; 

PoPVLATtON  ^ABLZ  OF  ^INGU  MlTiR. 

MskcisbofeiOydntfige,    $$  Pamilief,           •  «  ^^ 

Pemalci,        •       -         -  75  Widows,        -  -         .       ^ 

Children,  nnderio,         -  19—153  Widower,       -  -          •         i 

Between  lo  and  ao,        -  4»  Natives,  etther  of  King'a  Maif^ 

■       ■    ■    so  and  50^    -  •   57                   ©r  Denino,  •         *        ;t 

■■■    ■  '     50 and  70^       -  30  Bwffafir  Sccedefs^        •       *      4 

f— — *70  and  100^   •  -   i— «53 

ProfnHcr^  Hfnf,  Minefals,  He.^Tht  dlate  of  King^l 
Muir  is  now  entailed  on  the  name  of  Banm^  the  fumame  of 
its  ^efeot  laird,  whofe  whole  yearly  rental  amounts  to  iool« 
There  is  nothing  remarkable  in  the  King's  Muir,  befides  its 
containing  the  ooal*mine  above  mentioned,  and  one  of  the 
two  mines  that  convey  the  water  from  the  links,  which  was 
4ug  nearly  50  years  ago,  being  more  than  300  fathoms  m 
length ;  in  moft  places  9  ditto  from  the  fur&ce  of  the  earth ; 
origmally  18  inches  wide,  and  jf  feet  high.  The  coal  here 
was  hitherto  wrought  by  a  wind-mill,  no  veftige  of  which 
lemainsi  but  will  ia  fiUure  be  wrought  by  a  diffexent  de- 
men^ 


of  Den}nt\  369 

fltenC,  and  by  different  machinery*  Th«  <ft«lc  of  King's 
Mttir  is  whollj  devoid  of  planting*-  and  no  lefs  deftitote  o£ 
-  cflillofures,  or  any  kind  of  fence.  Xkis  large  {»ece  of  ground* 
apparently  an  outcafi  from  all  pariflies,  aa  its  iphabitants  ate 
iboaetimes  hnmouroufly  told,  by  tbofe  of  tfae  adjacent  diftriAs, 
'wottldf  with  that  extenfive  part  of  this  parifh,  which  went  to 
complere  the  vicarage  of  Cameron,  but  which  ought  ftill  to 
pay  tome  proportion  to  Denino^  form  a  pariih  of  a  very  re« 
fpeftable  estedt. 

General  CiaraSifr. — Of  the  inhabitants  of  this  parifli  it 
may  juftly  be  aflerted,  that  indudry  and  hofpitality,  iincerity 
and  an  obliging  behaviour,  are  their  general  charaderiftici. 
They  are  alfo  noted  for  moderation  and  fobriety,  generofity 
«nd  candour.  From  thefe  virtues  there  may  be,  however,  aa 
iS  but  too  natural,  not  a  few  deviations.  The  bulk  of  the 
people,  though  poor,  are  contented  and  reSgned.  The  mi- 
nority, ^hofe  circumilances  are  more  affluent*  appear  to  in- 
dnlge  as  much  in  the  luxuries  of  the  table,  and  of  drefs,  as 
the  fnperiority  of  their  fortunes  can  yftll  countenance.  The 
inferior  claiTes  feem  to  be  uncommonly  fond  of  perfonal  de- 
coration I  and  rather  than  (as  they  imagine)  difgrace  the 
back,  they  will  often  ftarve  its  fupporter.  This  remark  is, 
perhaps,  not  more  applicable  to  the  one  fex  tlian  to  the  other; 
or  to  this  diftrift  more  than  to  other  pirifhes.  Spiritous  li- 
quors produce,  at  prefent,  fewer  unpleafanc  fcenes  than  fome 
time  ago.  NotwithOanding  the  general  penury  of  the  di^ 
Arid,  the  inhabitants  are  proof  againil  the  fordid  invaCons  of 
avarice.  As  a  fpecimen,  both  of  the  morals  and  natural 
tempers  of  fome  of  the  individuals  in  the  parifli,  let  the  fol- 
lowing fa&  fuffice  :  Two  men  in  the  parifli  of  Denino  have, 
for  nearly  30  years,  held  a  coniiderable  farm  aud  mill  in  con^- 
junSion;  prefervbg  every  article,  regardbg  their  external 
Vol.  XL  3  A  property. 


37^  Statyiical  Account 

propertjy  in  perfed  coxnmanitjv  their  wives  and  private 
property  oolj  excepted.  The  people  in  general  are  humane ; 
and,  as  far  as  means  will  allow,  more  than  ordinarily  chari- 
tahle  to  the  poor. 

Language. — Refpeding  this  article  there  is  nothing  at  all 
ftrikingv  except  that  the  vulgar  dialed  is  remarkably  exemp- 
ted from  the  corruptions  that  abound  on  the  coafty   as  well  as 
from  many  of  thofe  Scotticifms,   and  uncouth  phrafes,  fo  pe-> 
culiar  to  many  other  places,  whofe  inhabitants  lay  claim  to  a 
higher  degree  of  refinement.    This  bit  of  iMgo-eminence  may 
•  have  arifen  from  the  vicinity  of  Denino,   in  common  with 
.  many  other   adjacent  diftriitsi  to  Alma  Mater  !     Agreeably 
to  the  general  pra&ice  of  the  county,  the  inhabitants  here 
difplay  a  fingiilar  hoUownefs  in  the  accentuation  of  dietr 
-words,  with   an  unufual  prolongation  of  the  final  tone  of 
their  fentences ;  all  aided  at  leaft  by  the  antique  manner  of 
enunciating  fome  of  the  vowek  and  diphthongs. 


NUM- 


•f  Fintry,  371 

NUMBER    XXVIII. 
PARISH    OF    FiNTRY. 

(JCouniy  of  Stirling-^^Pre/hytiry  of  DuffAarton^-^Synod  of 
Glafgw)  and^  ^^0 

By  the  Rev.  Mr.  Gavin  Gibb,  Minijer  of  Stkhthblavz. 


NamCf  Situation^  and  Extent. 

'THE  name  of  this  pariih  is  of  Gaelic  origto,   and  figiufies 

Fair  Lund.    Contrafted  with  the  bleak  and  precipitous 

rodeneb  of    the  adjacent  moors  and  mountains,  its  gta^" 

hills,  its  fertile  and  fvell  watered  valleys,  entitle  it  to   this 

appellation. Fintry  is  fituated  in  the  midft  of  that  range  of 

hills,  which  reaches  from  Stirling  to  Dumbarton,  and  behind 
that  particular  diftrift  of  them  ufuallj  denominated  tbe  Camp' 
Jit  FeUs.  .  It  lies  17  miles  due  N.  from  Glafgow,  xa  miles 
W.  by  S.  from  Stirling,  and  ax  or  22  miles  £•  by  N.  froxh 
Dumbarton.  It  belongs  to  tbe  commifiariot  of  Glafgow.  It 
extends  frQm  £.  to  W.  5  miles,  and  from  N.  to  S.  more  than 
4 ;  though  the  only  parts  of  it,  which  are  inhabited,  are  a 
ftnall  valley  on  the 'banks  of  the  Endrick,  and  another  on 
the  banks  of  the  Carron  -,  both  of  which  rivers  have  the£r 
fource  in  this  pariih. 

General  Appearance. -^Tht  general  appearance  ^  the  couor 
try  is  hilly.     Tbe  hills  are  fmall ;  they  are  clothed  with  re. 

3  A.  2  frcifaing 


yj2  Statijttcal  Account  ^ 

frefhing  verdure  ;  and  their  ihapes  are  finely  diverfified.  Ca^ 
vered  with  iheep,  thej  fugged  many  paftoral  images.  The 
caftem  p;trt  of  the  pari(h  coofifts  of  three  ranges  of  hills,  with 
fcarcelj  any  intervening  plain.  Between  the  two  fouther- 
moft  of  thefe  ranges,  the  Carroa  bog  or  meadow  commences  ; 
the  largeft  perhaps  in  Svotland.  Beginning  in  Fintry,  it  raos 
£.  between  the  parilhes  of  Kilfyth  and  St.  Ninian's  to  the 
cltent  of  4  miles ;  is  in  fome  places  a  miles  in  breadth,  and 
in  no  place  lefs  than  i  \  containing  about  500  acres  in  one 
continued  plain.  It  affords  fudenance  during  the  winter  to 
the  cattle  of  the  furrounding  farms.  This  remarkable  mea« 
dow,  befides  its  ntility,  adds  great  livelinels  and  beauty  ta 
the  general  face  of  the  country.  The  fcene  it  exhibits  da« 
ring  the  months  of  July  and  Auguft,  of  ao  or  30  differenc 
parties  of  people  employed  in  hay- making,  is  certainly  very 
cheerful :  And  during  winter,  the  greater  part  of  it  bein^ 
cverffowed  by  the  Carron,  which  runs  through  the  middle  of 
it,  and  which  is  then  indudrioufly  led  over  its  whole  extent, 
to  fertilize  it  for  the  enfuing  crop,  it  aflumes  the  appearanoe 
of  a  large  and  beautiful  lake,  in  both  fititations,  it  afibrds  aa 
agreeable  relief  from  the  bleaknefo  of  the  country  around  it. 
Towards  the  weft  end  of  the  partfli,  the  hills  are  more  rockj 
and  rugged.  The  valley  through  which  the  rapid  ftream  of 
the  Endrick  runs,  widens  gradually  to  the  extent  of  a  mile. 
Several  groves,  recently  planted,  beginning  to  lift  their  heads 
along  the  banks  of  the  river ;  the  cultivated  fields  on  its  mar- 
gin ;  the  hedges  and  hedge  rows  round  the  enclofures  on  the 
£ftate  of  Culcruich  ;  an  extenfive  plantation  behind  the  man- 
fion-houfe  of  that  name  ;  and  fome  weli^difpofed  clumps  of 
trees  on  the  fides  of  the  oppofite  hills,  gratify  the  traveller* 
not  only  with  a  view  of  beauty,  but  of  welKdireded  induftry. 
Above  thefe,  the  fummits  of  the  mountains  on  both  fides,  bro« 
ktfi^  and  prefenting  abrupt  precipices,  and  fometimes  covered 

widk 


of  Ftntry.  375 

wid)  clouds,  add  grandeur  and  dignitj  to  the  fcene. The 

profped,  however,  is  confined  within  narrow  limits,  excepting 
towards  the  weft,  where  it  is  terminated  by  Benlomond,  that 
rifes  with  eminent  dignitj  above  the  neighbouring  Gram- 
pians.  Thus  fenced  and  fequeftered,  the  little  hills  and  val- 
leys oF  Fintry  fuggeft  ideas  of  tranquil  and  undifturbed  fe- 
clu&on.  Nor  can  any  thing  of  the  kind  be  more  agreeable 
than  when  in  fummer,  the  fun  letting  by  the  fide  of  Benlo- 
mond, throws  a  Uaze  oC  parting  radiance  on  the  rommntitf 
banks  of  the  upper  Endrick. 

Stnl. — ^The  foil  in  thofe  parts  of  the  pariib  which  ate  fit  for 
agriculture,  ir light,  quick,  and  fertile;  agrees  better  with 
dung  for  manure  than  lime ;  and,  when  enriched  with  the 
former,  produces  excellent  crops.  Some  recent  experiments 
however  have  (hewn,  that  when  the  ground  is  paftured  fbr 
two  years,  then  limed  and  allowed  to  reft  another  year,  it 
will  thereafter  yield  better  crops,  than  by  any  mode  of  huf- 
bandry  hitherto  praftifed. 

Cwhivation  and  Preduci^F-^ln  agriculture,  however,  the  in- 
habitants have  made  but  few  improvements.  They  folbw 
fervilely  the  ancient  mode  o/fq/htriagf  andqf/owmg  oats^  for 
two  or  three  years  alternately  on  their  out-field,  and  of  uni- 
formly fo  wing  as  much  land  with  bear  as  the  winter's  dung  will 
cover ;  and  from  which  they  afterwards  take  two  fncceffive 
crops  of  oats.  However  a  few  of  the  farmers  are  now  beginning 
to  get  the  better  of  thefe  prejudices,  and  find  their  account  ia 
altering  the  mode  of  cropping.  In  making  this  change  they 
have  been  inftruded  and  prompted  by  Mr.  Sfxers  of  Cul* 
eruich,  who,  fince  his  refidence  on  his  eftate,  has  fet  the  ex- 
ample of  clearing  the  ground  with  turnips,  and  has  introdu- 
ced the  fowing  of  grals  and  clover  feeds  for  haj.  The  bene- 
ficial 


374  Statifiical  Account 

ficial  effSsd  of  this  method,  has  encouraged  fome  of  his  owa 
tenants  to  follow  his  ezample  9  and  there  is  no  dooht  but 
the  prafiice  will  become  general  in  all  thofe  farms  upon 
which  the  endofures  are  fencible  againft  (heep  The  method 
alluded  to  confifts,  as  was  meoiionedt  in  cleaning  the  ground 
with  turnips  and  potatoes ;  in  fowing  next  year  bear  with 
grafs  feeds ;  in  raifing  hay  for  two  years  ;  in  pafiuring  one 
or  two ;  in  fowing  oats  for  two  years  ;  and  then  in  returning 
to  the  turnips.  This  routine  anfwers  very  well,  and^  with 
the  iingle  improvement  of  taking  only  one  crop  of  each 
kind,  and  pafturing  two  years,  is  bed  adapted  for  this  foil, 
which,  being  light,  is  foon  impoveri&ed  by  a  continuation  of 
crops,  and  if  not  regularly  cleaned  by  pafturing  and  crops  of 
turnips,  is  apt  to  be  over-run  with  the  creeping  wbeat-grafs^ 
known  by  the  vulgar  name  oi  felt^  or  pirl-grafs.  There  is 
no  foil  better  adapted  for  raiiing  potatoes,  of  which  the  in* 
habitants  plant  confiderable  quantities ;  after  which  they 
commonly  fow  flax-feed,  which  fucceeds  very  well,  yielding 
from  three  to  four  ftones  from  each  peck  fown. 

Atf<&.-— But  die  attention  of  the  inhabitants  is,  with  very 
few  exceptions,  con&ncd  to  grazing  *,  which  is  by  6tf  the 

moft 

*  Under  thhrartkk  it  i»  bat  jisftice  to  mcntiao  the  name  of  Datid  Bair,  a 
flum  whole  ezertkmi,  in  improviog  the  mode  of  giaxiog,  Are  Xivlj  Uttdahle,a&d 
to  whofe  cxunple  its  prefent  advanced  (late,  through  a  conGderable  part  of  the 
weft  of  Scotland,  it  in  a  great  meafure  owing.  He  has  the  merit  of  firft  im* 
proTing  the  breed  of  black  cattle  and  fhrep,  by  raifing  them  to  a  greater  ^zt^ 
aod  feeding  them  more  tliorooghly,  than  was  ever  done  before  upon  graft  alone* 
'Sut  he  hat  acooa|pliihed,by  jodidoafiy  feleding  the  moft  choice  caitle^to  ftock 
his  fanoi  with,  aod  by  keeping  his  grafs  lighter,  i.  e.  by  pmtiig  fewer  cattle 
npon  the  iamefpace  of  grouod,  than  what  bad  been  ufedin  former  times.  -As 
afpecimenof  his  fucceia  in  this  branch,  the  writer  dates  the  following  fa«£b« 
which  are  well  attefted.  *  At  one  time  he  fold  a  Highland  fiot,  which  was  fcOl- 


of  Fintry.:  375 

moft'beniefioiai^  mode  of  ufing  the  ground  in  this  pa^iih,  whert 

hiU  and  ^nfe  equally  afford  moft  excellent  pafture  for  black 

cattle  and  fheep.     Thej  ufe  the  plough  therefore  chiefljr  with 

a  -view  to  the  fuQenance  of  their  cattle  through  winter^  atf 

£odder  is  the  great  obje£^  of  labour.     In  fome  of  the   farnif 

the  reut  is  folely  paid  from  the  produce  of  milk- cows  ;  in^ 

deed  butter  and  cheefe  form  the  ftaple  produce  of  the  pari(b« 

Feeding  of  cattle  is  alfo  generally  praflifed.     In  the  mouth  of 

Mfay,  each  farmer  buys  a  number  of  Highland  cows,  propor* 

tioned  to  the  extent  of  his   farm,    which    he  fattens  during 

fummer,  and  again  fells  off  in  the  months  of  September  and 

Odober.     When  markets  are  briik,  and  fales  ready,  this  is  by 

snuch  the  moft  convenient  and  advantageous  method  of  ufing 

the  ground  in  this  parifliy    as  the  excellence  of  the  paflure 

during  fummer,  enfures  the  fattening  of  the  cattle  purchafed, 

and  the  difficulty  of  procuring  fodder  for  winter  prevents  the 

rearing  any  more  than  are  neceffary,  to  keep  up  the  (lock  of 

mtlk-cows.     Sheep   are   alfo   an    objeA   of  attention.     Xhe 

breed  is  in  general  good,  a  confequence  of  the  excellent  paf. 

ture 

ed  in  Glafgow,  and  weighed,  according  to  the  purchafer's  confeflion,  52  ftonet 
htct^  and  to  iUmes  tallow  1  the  price  he  reeeiTed  wat  25  guineai.  At  another 
time  he  Ibid  %s  Highland  (U>ts  at  ill.  each,  the  lighteft  of  which  weighed  vp- 
warda  of  30  ftones.  He  fells  annually  about  60  tup-Umbs  of  a  year  old^  for 
"which  he  never  receiTct  lefs  than  a  guinea  elich ;  and  his  Iambs  for  killing  he 
commonly  fells  in  May,  at  half«a-guinea  each.  He  carries  oiNii;  plan  on  a  very 
cztcnfive  feale,  renting  farms  in  different  parti  of  the  country,  from  one  to  ano- 
ther of  which»  he  removca  hla  cattle  at  the  proper  feafont,  according  to  the  qna- 
litf  of  the  farm,  and  the  ftate  of  the  cattle.  His  ftots  he  fell*  at  5  years  old, 
but  calves  of  his  own  rearing  fometimes  equal  his  beft  cattle,  at  three  yean  old^ 
and  are  accordingly  fold  at  that  age.  When  he  dealt  to  the  greateft  extent  he 
paid  rents  to  the  amount  of  1800I.  per  annum ;  the  lar^ell  proportion  of  which 
he  paid  to  the  Duke  of  Mootrofe.  His  annual  dock  at  that  time  was  470  black 
catcje, and  S740  Ibeep,  of  which' aoo. were  ewes,  as  a petmaneat  ftocky  ftvo 
which  |ie  has  frc^aently  fold  in  a  y^  300  lambs. 


37^  Statifiical  Account 

tore  on  which  thej  graze,  as  well  as  of  the  cue  which  is  ts- 
ken  to  improve  the  ftock,  by  croffiog  the  hreed,  sad  icftring 
none  but  the  beft  ewi-lamis.  Lambs  are  aUb  fxequcAtly 
brought  from  the  foutfaero  parts  of  Scotland,  which  improve 
greatly  on  this  foiL  The  wool  is  of  a  veiy  good  quality. 
Lambs  generally  fell  at  6L  per  foore ;  wool  fells  at  from  js, 
to  78.  per  ftone.  The  following  taUe  will  (hew  the  nomlMr 
•f  cows  and  iheep  kept  in  this  pariih  : 

Milk  Cows,  •  .  •  263 

Fat  ditto,         -  -  -  •         37^ 

Sheep,  •  •  •  .  ^470 

Topulaiion. — The  population  of  this  pariih,  like  that  o{ 
moft  other  grazing  countries  in  Scotland,  has  decreafed  very 
much  within  thefe  40  years.  Since  the  return  to  Dr.  Web« 
fter,  in  1755,  it  has  decreafed  mpre  than  a  third  part.  There 
are  feveral  farms  in  the  pari{h,  upon  which  from  ^4  to  20 
familes  formerly  lived,  where  only  from  5  to  8  fumilies  now 
refide.  This  depopulation  is  evidently  caufed  by  throwing 
feveral  fmall  f^rms  into  one,  which  eoables  the  pofieflbr  to 
pay  a  greater  rent  to  the  proprietor,  and  at  the  fame  time  to 
live  better  in  his  own  family,  than  vihen  parcelled  out  in 
fmall  portions.  Nor  is  this  counted  difadvantageous  to  thofe 
who  are  ejeQed,  as  the  great  demand  for  hands  by  manufac- 
turing companies, affords  them  a  ready  reception;  where  they 
and  their  children  can  earn  more,  and  live  better,  than  upon  a 
fmaU  farm.  But,  notwithftanding  prafent  opinions,  it  ftill 
remains  a  doubt,  whether  this  revolution  in  this  flile  of  a 
country,  will  in  the  end  prove  a  national  advantage.  Whe- 
ther a  pallid  and  fickly  race,  brought  up  in  the  confined  sir 
of  cotton  mills,  with  few  attachments,  and  little  cducstieo, 
win  compenfate  for  the  (lurdy  fons  of  our  hills  and  mouo« 

tain?, 


if  Ftntry.  377 

taitis,  or  afford  a  fet  of  as  loyal  and  virtuons  fubjefls,  is  a 
queflion  which  we  leave  poftcrity  to  determine— The  prefeot 
4late  of  the  population  is  as  under.  { 

Population  "Table  of  the  Parijb  of  Fintrt. 

Fopulation  in  1755,      •      •  ^9*  Between  50  and  70,  -          ss 

]>itto  in  X793,            *            *  543              ■     ■    7oand  loo*,  -  Ij 

—  Weaver!,  f            -  -  J 

Decreafe,            ^  24^  Tailors,            -            -  -      3 

Of  tlicfe  there  are,  Smiths,           •           •  •      % 

Males,           m           *           m  «73  Shoemaker,           -  •            I 

Females^  *  ^  a  70  Average  «f  births  for  the  lail  15 

iJnder  loyearsof  age,        ^  Z36            years,            -  -  ,  16 

Between  10  and  ao,            •  1 10  Ditto  of  deaths^           -^  •        t 

"  ■■■    ■  »o and 50,  •  %2S 

ManufaHures  and  Nevi  Pillage. — This  pariQi  is  oti  the  eve 
of  experiencing  a  great  change,  by  the  introdudlon  of  ma- 
fiafafiureSf  on  a  very  large  fcale.  A  cotton  mill  is  juit 
creded  on  the  eftate  of  Gulcruichy  156  feet  in  length,  and 
40  feet  widd ;  ^hich,  when  finiihedi  will  employ  1000  hands. 
A  handfome  village^  upon  a  rifing  ground  along  the  fide  of 
the  Endfick,  it  alt'eady  feued  off,  and  building  fot  the  recep^ 
tion  of  the  work  people.  The  houfes,  according  to  a  regular 
Jilan,  are  to  (land  id  one  row,  and  to  confid  of  two  dories 
and  garrets*  Thus  fituated^  the  village  tViil  be  well  aired, 
dry  and  healthy ;  and  very  pleafant,  having  the  gardens  in 
front,  fepdraUd  from  the  houfes  By  the  turnpike  road^  d reded 
on  a  (loping  bank  down  to  the  river. 

\oL.  XI.  3  B  .  Troprieton 

•  it  is  worthy  to  be  recorded,  that  thefe  died,  a  fe#  monrhs  previous  to  tak* 
iog  up  this  lift,  one  man  above  80,  and  another  103  years  old. 

f  Some  of  thefe  have  aipprtntices  and  journeymen  ;  and  they  are  fupp!ied 
with  work  from  mannfadnring  companies.  Men  ferrants  wages  are  4I.  and 
4L  10s.  iathc  half  year  7  w«mtn  fcnraati  from  iL  its.  to  si. 


37'  Statiftical  Account 

Profriitors  and  RiBt, — The  whole  property  of  the  parilk 
is  vefted  in  the  Duke  of  Moktrosc,  and  Mr.  SrxKRS  of  Col- 
cniich  ;  the  former  of  whom  is  patron  of  the  pariih,  and  tb^ 
latter  is  the  onlj  refiding  heritor.  The  prefent  rent  is  betweca 
1500K  and  1900!.;  bat  it  maj  be  ezpefted  to  rife  confider- 
ably. 

Churchf  \3c — ^The  church  was  built  before  this  century: 
Part  of  it  appears  to  be  of  a  very  ancient  date.  The  manfe 
was  built  in  1732,  and*  has  undergone  feveral  iqairs.  The 
fiipend  coniifts  of  44  bolls  of  meal,  5  bolls  of  bear,  and  24I.  los. 
Sterling  in  money;  exclufive  of  the  glebe,  which  contains  9 
acres^  4  of  which  are  arable. 

Po^r .-^The  poor  of  this  parifli  are  fupported  by  the  week- 
ly collections,  and  the  interell  of  a  fund,  which  has  accumu- 
lated to  aooh  Sterling  and  upwards,  chiefly  by  donations 
from  the  family  of  Montrofe.  The  prefent  number  on  the 
poor's  roll  is  7,  and  varies  from  that  zo«  They  receive,  indi- 
vidually, according  to  their  neceffities,  from  is.  to  3s.  weekly. 
Befides  this  ftated  diftribution,  attention  is  paid  to  clothmg 
the  moll  deQitute,  and  fupplying  them  with  fuel.  Thele 
fupplies  are  adequate  to  their  waots ;  infomuch^  tha^  there  is 
not,  nor  has  been  for  many  years  pall,  a  iingle  inftance  of  a 
poor  perfon,  belonging  to  the  pariih,  going  out  to  beg.  Tliia 
attention  to  their  own  poor,  however,  does  not  by  any  meaas 
free  the  inhabitants  from  the  burden  and  plague  of  mendicants 
from  other  places.  Crowds  flock  thither,  from  the  great 
towns  and  populous  villages,  for  the  fpace  of  30  miles  round, 
who  frequently  repay  the  charity  they  receive,  by  making 
nightly  depredations  upon  their  humane  landlords^ 

FW.— The  fuel  which  has  been  principally  ufed  hitherto 
in  this  parifli,  is  peat ;  in  cutting,  drying,  and  carrying  home 
which,  the  whole  fiunmer  is  fpent,  from  the  end  of  feed- 
time. 


cffitttry.  379 

time,  till  the  beginning  of  the  hay  harveit.  This,  were  there  no 
other  obftacle,  is  a  powerful  bar  to  agricultural  improvements, 
as  the  only  time  of  the  jear,  in  which  the  farmers  can  carry 
lime,  is  fpent  an  preparing  and  fecuring  their  fuel.  It  is  to 
be  hoped,  howevier,  that  this  obftade  will  foon  be  removed. 
An  attempt  is  juft  now  making  to  find  coal  upot^  the  eftate 
of  Colcmich,  and  appearances  have  hitherto  been  favourable. 
Whatever  may  be  the  ultimate  iffue  of  this  fearch,  great  praife 
is  due  to  Mr.  Spiers  for  his  inde&tigable  el:ertions,  in  promot- 
ing every  meafure  that  can  contribute  to  the  profperity  of  the 
parilh*. 

Roads  and  Bridges  — ^Till  within  thefe  two  yedrs,  the  acceft 
to  Fintry  was  extremely  difficult  on  all  fides,  infomuch,  that 
had  it  not  been  rendered  eafier,  no  improvement  could  have 
made  its  way  thither.  The  difficulty  was  even  fo  great  as 
ftlmoft  to  forbid  any  attempt  to  remove  it.  A  hill,  almoft 
perpendicular,  over  which  horfes  could  fcarcely  crawl  with 
half  a  load,  cut  off  the  communication  with  Campfie  and 
Glafgow,  from  which  fide  coal  could  only  be  got  \  and  dee^ 
tnoor  and  roofs  obftrufied  the  approach  on  the  N.  and  W. 
Thefe  obftades,  feemingly  infurmountable,  are  now  happil/ 

3  B  a  overcome, 

^TKc  MODE  Of  BoaiNd,  which  he  hM  adopted,  m  fuch  m  muft  afcertaiti, 
whhoat  a  donbt,  whetAer  thert  be  coal  in  the  country  or  not,  and  may  ferve  at 
m  leflbn  to  othen,  who  may  have  occafioo  to  make  trial  tor  coal  in  hiUy  countries. 
7*be  top  of  the  hill  confiftt  of  a  very  thick  bed  of  whin  ftonc,  below  which 
there  li  a  bed  of  free-ftone  equally  thick.  Beginning  at  the  bottom  of  thfi 
frcc4kone,  which  is  half  a  mile  op  the  hill,  with  a  lo  fathom  bore,  be  takei  \hi 
level  of  the  bottom  of  this  bore  down  the  fide  of  the  hill,  making  allowances  for 
the  dip  and  run  of  the  metalt,  where  he  boree  again  to  the  depth  of  xo  fathoou. 
And  fo  OQ,  continuing  till  he  reaches  the  level  of  the  river.  In  one  of  thefe 
bores  there  was  found  Uft  week  a  fmall  crop  fcam  of  coal,  which  it  ii  to  be  hop* 
cd  is  the  fot'emoner  of  one  of  greater  confcqucnce.  If  the  attempt  fucceeds, 
h  will  be' of  the  utmoft  importance,  to  a  trad  of  country  for  lo  oiikt  ra 
the  greatell  part  of  which  Ilea  at  prefent  ao  mtlet  frun  coal. 


380  Etati/iical  Account 

overcome^  bj  the  public  fpirited  exertions  of  Mr.  SriBRS  aii4 
Mr.  DuNMO|i£.  The  gentleman  lail  mcntionedf  has  formed, 
AS  it  were,  a  qew  creation  on  the  water  of  Endrick,  and  given 
life  an.d  fpirit  to  a  country  which,  4  years  ago,  feemed  con? 
dcmaed  to  perpetual  duUnefs;  haying,  io  that  fpace,  brought 
from  different  parts  of  the  country,  to  the  neighboorisg  pa- 
rilhes  of  Balfron  and  Killearn,  no  fewer  than  IKOO  per(bas. 
Both  thefe  gentlemen,  with  much  private  expence,  obtained 
an  ad  of  parliament  for  a  new  diftrid  of  roads,  in  the  weftera 
parts  of  Stirlingfhire  \  and,  with  ^  promptitude  of  execution, 
equal  to  their  zeal  in  moving  the  roeafure,  have  furniflied  thif 
part  of  the  country  with  as  good  roads  as  any  part  of  Scot- 
land. The  Craw  Road^  a  mile  in  lepgtb  and  upwards,  which 
>vas  formerly  i  foot  of  afcent  in  7,  and  iq  fome  places  z  foot 
in  5,  is  now  reduced  to  i  foot  in  20,  in  the  fte^peft  place. 
This  line  of  t:oad  reaches  from  Glafgow  through  Fintry,  and 
joins  the  military  road  between  Stirling  and  Dumbarton,  about 
6  miles  to  the  N.  of  this  place.  The  county  road  to  the  W. 
is  alfo  now  put  into  a  date  of  repair  ;  fo  that,  from  being  the 
n^oft  diiHcult  of  accefs,  Fintry  is  pow  eafily  apceffible  on  all 
fides. — The  bridges,  on  this  line  of  road  are  numerous,  and 
}idd  very  much  to  the  eafe  of  the  communication  ^  a9  the  deep 
ravines  formed  by  the  mouiitain  flreams,  \yhich  were  former- 
ly  very  difficult  to  pafs,  are  all  arched  over,  and  filled  up  to 
|he  level  of  the  adjacent  banks.  The  bridge  over  the  £nd« 
rick  confi(ls  of  4  arches,  %  of  which  are  26  feet  wide,  and  the 
other  two  la  feet  each.  The  bridge  on  the  old  line  of  road, 
about  a  mile  farther  up  the  river,  confifts  of  one  beautiful 
arch  of  47  feet  wide,  and  another  of  15  feet. 

Rivers,  Fi/b,&LC.-^Tht  En  Jrici  has  its  fo^rce  in  the  hill  of  Fin- 
on  the  northern  fide  of  the  parifh.  It  runs  E.  a  little  way, 
takes  a  fudden  turii  to  the  S.,  forming  the  eaftem  boundary 

of 


4>f  Fintry.  38 1 

of  the  pariih  for  %  miles ;  then  turns  due  W.,.  rufhmg  over 
the  Loup  of  Fintryt  and  iaclo&ng  part  of  the  parifti  within  3 
iides  of  a  fquare.  After  receiving  the  river  Blanc^  and  other 
plentiful  ftreams^  in  its  courfe»  and  forming  2  beautiful  caf- 
cades  at  Gartness,  the  fpot  where  the  famous  Napier  of 
M&RCHISTON  invented  his  logarithms,  it  lofes  itfelf  in  Loch« 
lomondy  about  14  miles  below  Fintry,  This  river  abounds 
svith  trout  and  par.  llie  trout  are  reckoned  to  be  of  a  fupe« 
rior  quality 9  and  may  be  taken  in  great  numbers,  even  by  an 
unikilful  angler  ;  upon  which  account  it  is  very  much  refort* 
jcd  tp,  by  perfons  fond  of  that  amufement.  Salmon,  likewife, 
make  their  way  in  great  numbers  into  the  mouth  of  this 
river ;  fome  of  which,  when  the  water  is  high,  come  as  far 
up  as  Fintry.  The  Carrpn  rifes  in  the  W,  end  of  the  parifh, 
on  the  S.  of  the  Eodrick,  and  runs  E.  in  a  (Iraight  diredion, 
vateriog  the  Carron  Bog  in  its  paiTage ;  leaving  whic]i,  it  ru11}?s 
over  the  AuchinlilyLinn  Spout j  a  tremenduous  catar:.d,  cor- 
rcfponding  to  an  interefting  defcription  in  the  tragedy  of 
^  Pouglas,— 

••  Red  came  the  river  down,*'  &c.  &c. 

From  this  it  continues  its  courfe  eaftward,  through  the  Carf(^ 
of  Falkirk,  and  falls  into  the  Forth,  about  3  miles  from  that 
town*  It  abounds  with  fmall  and  large  trout ;  fome  of  which, 
taken  in  the  pools  in  Carron  Bay,  meafure  29  inches  iq 
length. 

Natural  Curiqfities. — ^Thc  only  curiofiiy  which  is  uni- 
yerfally  remarked  in  this  parifh,  is  the  above  mentioned  Loup 
0/ Fintry  ;  a  cataraft  of  91  feet  high,  over  which  the  Endrict 
pours  its  whole  ftrtam.  In  rainy  weather,  and  more  efpeci* 
jjly  after  a  thunder  fbower,  or  a  water  fpout,  which  frequently 

|>appcii 


382  Statijikal  Accimnt 

happen  in  thefe  parts,  the  L$Mp  of  Fimry  maj  he  mentioned 
along  with  what  is  moft  magnificent  in  this  kind  of  objefi« 
w.There  is  alfo  in  thb  parifli  a  gnuid  range,  or  colonnade, 
of  baCdtic  pillars,  which  rife  in  a  hill  called  Z)»i,  or  Dovm, 
lit  the  end  of  the  hill  of  Fintiy.  The  range  coofifts  of  70 
colttxnns  in  front,  which  are  of  a  gigantic  ftature,  feme  of  them 
feparatiog  in  loofe  blocks,  others  apparently  without  joints 
from  top  to  bottom.  Thej  ftand  perpenficular  to  the  hori- 
'  son,  and  rife  to  the  height  of  50  feet.  They  are  feme  of 
them  fqnare,  others  pentagonal  and  hexagonal.  A  (dock,  fe« 
parated  from  one  of  the  hexagonal  colunms,  meafnrcd  bj  aa 
accurate  fnnrej  as  follows : 

5th  fide,  -IS 

6th  do*  *  o      loi 

Its  greateft  diameter,  %      ix 
Its  lead         ditto,       a        3 

On  the  £.  fide  of  the  range,  the  columns  (land  feparated  one* 
from  another,  by  an  interftice  of  3  or  4  inches.  This  inter- 
fiice  leflens  gradually  towards  the  W.  fide,  till  nothing  bat  a 
feam  is  difcernible,  and  then  all  is  blended  in  one  folid  mafs 
of  rock,  which  is  very  much  honey-combed,  and  has  the  ap- 
pearance of  having  been  ignited.  The  mountain  above  men- 
|ioned|  confids  of  very  extenfive  be4$  of  red  ochre. 


NUM- 


JPnt. 

iMiBtU 

ift  fide. 

• 

% 

I 

2d  do. 

• 

I 

8 

3d  do. 

- 

X 

5i 

4th  do. 

« 

X 

3i 

^SLMungQ,  1%^ 

NUMBER    XXIX. 
PARISH    OF  St.   MUNGO, 

^County  and  Synod  ofDumfrut — Prejbyttry  of  Locimaien^ 
Bf  the  Rtv.  Mr.  David  Dicksok,  Minj/ler, 


ErfBion  and  Nam^» 
IrN  CrawfuriPj  Peerage  of  Scotland,  Roiert  ie  Bruct^  tbe  ad 
lord  of  Annandale,  is  (aid  to  have  granted  to  the  Epifcov 
pal  See  of  Glafgow,  *'  cum  co^fcnfu  Robtrti  de  Bruce^  JUii 
**  fid^  frofalute  anima  fua^^  the  churches  of  Moffat,  Kirk« 
Patrick*  Drumldalei  Hoddam,  and  Caftlemilk,  (now  St.  Mun« 
go).  The  date  of  this  charter  is  not  mentioned.  It  is  high« 
ly  probable,  however,  that  it  mud  have  been  about  the  year 
ia5oorx26o,  when  the  cathedral  church  of  Su  Mungo  at 
ClaJjgoMi  was  built,  from  which  this  parilh  has  derived  its 
name*  Whether  the  whole  of  this  pariih,  or  only  a  part  of 
it,  was  then  called  CqftkmiU^  as  mentioned  above,  cannot  now 
be  afcertained* 

Siiuatimty  Estteftt^  Surface^  Soilp  and  Minerals, — This  pariih 
lies  in  that  part  of  the  county  of  Dumfries  which  was  for«* 

merlj 


3  §4  Staliflical  Account 

merly  called  the  ftewartry  of  Annandale.     It  extends   from 
N.  to  S.  nearly  4  miles,  and  from   E.  to    W.  rather   moie. 
Being  bounded  with  high  hills  to   the  E.  and  the  W.   it  ap* 
pears  like  a  valley  to  the  traveller  at  a  diffance ;  aod  the  riiing 
grounds  in  the  middle  of  the  parilh,  called  Nut-^hoimHi//*^  are 
difiin^lly  feen  from  the  heights  above  Moffat,   on  the  very 
boundary  of  Annandale.     From  different  fuiveys,  the  pariih 
is  faid  td  colitain  about  4CC0  Scotch  acres  ;  f  part  of  which 
is  of  a  loamy  and  fertile  foil.     On  the  floping  fides  of  the 
rifing  grounds  it  is  more  iharp  and  ftoney.   The  higher  ground 
is  in  general  the  bed,   and  is  all  arable,   except  a  very  few 
fmall  fpotSy  which  contain  iron .  and  copper-ftone  in  abun« 
dance.     Some  free-done  is  found  in  the  parilh  of  a  white  cc* 
lour,  fit  for* building ;  and  in   fome   parts   of  the  lowlands 
there  are  lime^^ilone  and  (everal  valuable  marl  pits. 

Rivers ^Fi/h,  MinerallVater^  Wo^ds^  t^c.-The river  MiUruM 
along  the  N.E.  fide  of  theparifli,  and  divides  it  fromTunder- 
garth  ;  afterwards  it  interfefts  the  parifh  for  almoft  two  miles, 
and,  on  the  eafiern  extremity,  empties  itfelf  into  the  river  ^a* 
nan*  The  Annan  runs  nearly  4  miles  along  the  S.  and  W.  and 
feparates  St.Mungo  from  theparlihes  of  Daltonand  Cummer* 
trees*  Both  thefe  rivers  abound  with  freih  water  and  fea« 
trout,  falmon,  and  hidings.  Thefe  waters  were  much  re^* 
forted  to  by  fportfmen  from  didant  parts  of  the  country,  but 
fince  the  general  ufe  of  lime  as  a  manure^  the  number  of  filb 
has  greatly  decreafed.  to  the  Annan,  a  little  below  the 
manfe,  there  is  a  pool  called  the  Rod-Hole^  vulgarly  Rotcbelt 
of  an  afioniihing  depth,  formed  in  the  middle  of  a  rock^ 
where  incredible  quantities  of  falmon  are  caught^   by  a  new 

and 

*  On  Nusholm  Hill,  the  Tcftigcs  of  a  Roman,  and  of  fevcral  Britifh  campi^ 
could  lately  be  dlHindlly  traced;  but  by  the  lapfc  of  time,  aud  the  progrcfs  rf 
tuhlv3tion,  they  are  now  alnioft  entirely  defa€«d* 


of  St.  Mungo.  385 

ftnd  fingular  mode  of  filhing,  ctlled  grappling.  Three  or  four 
large  hooks  are  tied  together,  in  different  direftions,  on  a 
ftrong  lin^,  having  a  weight  of  lead  fafBcient  to  make  it  fink 
immediately  as  low  as  the  perfon  inclinesi  and  then  by  giving 
,the  rode  a  fudden  jerk  upward,  the  books  are  fixed  into  the 
(almon,  which  are  thus  dragged  to  land  bj  force.  Salmon 
and  hirlings  are  mod  plentiful  in  thefe  rivers  in  the  month  of 
Auguft.  This  parilh  likewife  abounds  with  fprings  of  excel* 
lent  water ;  and  there  is  one  mineral  well,  which,  as  far  as 
the  writer  knows,  has  never  been  applied  to  anjr  valuable 
purpofe.  There  are  alfo  feveral  natural  woods  and  planta- 
tions, the  banks  of  the  Milk  being  clothed  with  natural  wood, 
beautifully  floping  towards  the  river ;  and  the  hills  orna* 
inented  with  planted  wood  on  the  mod  confpicnous  parts. 

Climate  and  Li/eafts^  lie. — ^Tbe  air  is  generally  moift  for 
H  confiderable  part  of  the  year.  As  the  Solway  Frith  is  only 
6  miles  diflant,  aud  the  country  around  is  very  hilly,  greater 
quantities  of  rain  are  fnppofed  to  fall  on  this  and  the  neigh* 
bouring  parilhes,  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  county*  Not« 
withftanding  of  thefe  circumftances ,  no  epidemical  difeafea 
are  prevsdent  here,  and  the  inhabitants  are  uncommonly 
healthy,  except  that  they  are  fometimes  afflifted  with  the  cq« 
lie  in  rainy  weather. 

Population. — ^The  population  of  St.  Mungo  has  varied  con« 
fiderably  at  different  periods :  "^ 

In  the  year  X755,  tbe  number  of  Ibult  waa  only         -  481  Intrtafi. 

In    ■  ■    ■  '   1763,  by  an  acconte  fnrTcy,  it  amounted  to       600 

Incnrafe  in  8  ycart,        •        *-^  I  If 

|d  ■  X784,  it  wai  reduced  to  •  •       .     560 

Dccreafe  in  %\  years «,        •        .  40^ 

In       ■      ■  179^,  by  an  exad  enumeration,  it  bad  rofc  to      640^  Surtlui    40 

Incrcafe  in  the  laft  8  yean,       •       •       8o3    .        * 
Total  tncreafe  in  37  yean,        .        •        •         •  159 

Vol,  XL  3  C  Employments^ 


38^  Statiftkal  Account 

Employments^  Wages,  &c.— As  this  parifh  is  farroundedwitl| 
xpanj  thriying  and  populous  villages,  verj  few  mechanics  re« 
i)de  in  it.  There  ^rt  only  a  or  3  joinersy  and  about  as  many 
weavers,  blapkfmiths,  and  tailors.  There  9re  no  writers, 
furgeoqs,  nor  (hoemakers  in  the  parlfh.  There  is  but  one 
alehoufe,  fituated  op  the  tprnpike  road  from  Glafgow  to  Car- 
Ijfle.  The  number  of  farmers,  great  and  fmall,  amounts  to 
about  50 ;  and  of  thofe  who  occupj  cottages,  the  number  may 
be  nearly  the  fame.  The  farmers  cultiyate  their  lands  them- 
felves,  with  the  h^lp  of  their  famiUeS|  fervants,  and  cotta* 
gers.  The  wages  of  a  m^m  by  the  day  have  lately  increafed 
to  IS.  44^  or  IS.  6d.  in  fummer,  and  to  lod.  or  is.  in  winter  | 
andof  a  woman  to  is.  in  fummer,  and  8d.  in  winter.  Servants 
hired  by  the  half-jear,  and  maintained  in  the  houfe,  are  pai4 
9^t  (bp  U^t  rate, 

Ecclejuiflical  Siate^  &c. — ^AU .  the  inhabitants  are  of  the 
Eftabliihed  Church,  except  %2.  Of  thefe  a  attend  the  EngUlh 
Chapel,  %  the  Kirk  of  Relief,  2  the  Burgher,  and  16  the  Ao. 
tiburgher  Meeting- Houf^s  in  the  neighbourhood.  The  church 
and  manfe  ^re  fituated  in  the  very  extremity  of  the  parifli  to 
fhe  S.  W*  on  the  bank  of  .the  river  Annan,  where  the  lands, 
which  rife  by  a  very  gradual  afcent,  to  the  difiance  of  half  a 
inile,  in  every  direOion,  have  formed  by  nature  a  moft  de- 
lightful 


f  The  cavfepf  the  4f^eaife,hetFefn  X763  aodi  I7$4«  !•  imputed  to  a  divifioa 
mi  the  commoni  in  the  parifli,  which  took  place  about  the  year  177a  The 
poorer  fort  of  ^e  people,  being  thnt  depri^f iM  fome  of  their  fonqer  pn^ilege^ 
temoTcd  to  the  Dcighbouring  towDt  of  fjockerbie  apd  Ecdetfecban.  Another 
circumfbaDce  might  haye  contributed  to  diminifli  the  ii\iimbef  of  iobahitantib 
Sometime  ago,  a  pian  waB  adopted  by  fome  of  the  heritors,  of  roaping  their 
muir  farms  annoally ;  whereby  they  were  more  thinly  inhabited,  and  frc^cntly 
poiTeircd  by  the  proprietors  themfelfei.  Fortonatcly  this  caitfc  of  depopnlatic^ 
|i  fcanoTed,, the  farmi  being  new  let  on  Uafe.^ 


bf  St,  Mungiii  '    38^ 

iigiitfiil  fituationf.  The  prefcnt  church  was  built  in  1754, 
l>ut  feems  never  to  have  been  properly  finiihed.  It  is  nei-^ 
iher  plaflered  nor  ceiled.  It  has  no  bell ;  and  the  feats  are  ia 
a  ruinous  condition.  There  are  only  the  traces  of  a  dyke  a- 
round  the  church-yard.— ^The  manfe  and  offices  were  built 
only  7  years  ago,  at  an  expence  of  374I.  Sterlingy  and  are 
ialready  fcarcely  habitable  !  This  fingular  fad  can  only  be 
accounted  for,  from  the  abfurd  methodi  which  the  generality 
of  heritors  in  this  part  of  the  country  adoptf  of  contrading 
tor  manfes,  kirks,  &c.  with  the  friend  of  foihe  leading  man 
in  the  pariQ),  or  with  fuch  as  will  build  them  at  the  fmalleft 
fcxpence.  Ami  though  the  prelbytery  get  tradefmen  upoU 
oath,  to  declare  them  fufficient,  yet  even  this  does  not  pro- 
duce the  deiired  efFeA  ;  for  fuch  people  generally  declare^  not 
that  the  work  \s  Juhjlantiatly  executed^  or  that  the  houfes  will 
fiand  for  a  reafonable  time,  but  only,  that  th<i  money  is  laid 
out  according  to  tbt  eftimate.  Hence  the  hojufes  built  at  the 
'expence  of  the  pariQi,  are  fuperficially  executed,  and  confe- 
quehtly  produftive  of  miich  additional  trouble  and  expence^ 

l>oth  to  the  heritors  and  to  thofe  who  occupy  them. -The 

King  is  patron.  The  fiipend  was  formerly  only  50I..  Ster- 
ling ;  it  is  now  52I.  los.  exclufiveof  the  glebe,  which  is  efli* 
imated  at  40I.  per  annum,  being  upwards  of  40  i^coteh  acrea 
of  the  beft  land  in  the  partlh.  About  2  years  ago  the  prefenC 
incumbent  obtained  an  augmentation  of  4  chalders  of  bear 
knd  meal,  worth  abotit  40I.  more.  There  is  no  parocbiat 
Jchool  in  the  pariih,  nor   any  falary  appropriated  for  the  fup- 

3  C  »  ...     post 


f  In  the  centre  of  thia  vplft,  ^licre  ibe  matife  is  placed,  there  are  Tome  res* 
roaios  of  an  ancient  village  (built  prcihably  by  the  friart  from  Gbfgow),  and 
likewife  o£  an  eztenrive  garden,  iwiih  a  fifa-pond  in  the  middle  of  it.  Of  thcfe^ 
the  prcfcnt  incumbent  hifth  fecn  many  iiifAlUble  proofs,  though  neither  tr^i« 
lion  nor  hiltory  (as  far  as  be  kiK>w»)  have  thrown  any  light  oa  Uie  fubje^* 


390     '  StatifiicaJ  Account 

porution  of  Hoae,  and  efpeciaUj  of  eoal.  Is  a  great  ob(lni6iod 
to  the  improvement  of  this  part  of  the  country.  The  mofles 
.being  almoft  exhaufied,  fuel  is  extremely  fcarce,  the  neareii  ^ 
,  coals  being  at  the  diftance  of  20  milesy  which  renders  this 
neceflarj  article  of  domeftic  oeconomj  very  expenfive.  Some 
fpirited  exertions,  however,  are  now  making  by  one  of  the 
proprietors,  to  difcover  this  ufeful  mineral,  and,  from  ap- 
pearances, fuccefs  may  be  hoped  for^ 

CASTLEMILK* 

-  "if  here  4^  only  one  gentleman's  feat  in  this  pknOx  t76rtfay 
of  notice.  CaQlemilk  ftands  on  a  moft  beautiful  flopiDg 
hill,  in  the  middle  of  a  ine  valley,  through  which  the  river 
MiU  glides  gently  along.  Oliver  Cromwell  invefted  this 
Caftle  ;  and  though  his  entrenchments  (ftill  diftin&ly  vifible) 
bad  greatly  the  command  of  it,  it  ftood  out  for  a  conCderablt 
time*.  The  Caftle  was  demolifhed  in  the  year  1707,  and 
converted  into  a  dwelling  houfe,  which  has  iince  been  much 
improved.  It  is  now  one  of  the  moft  delightful  and  romantic 
lituations  which  can  well  be  conceived,  having  fine  pleafure 
grounds  furrounding  it,  and  a  beautiful  country  in  its  neigh- 
bourhood. The  prefent  proprietor  is  Robertsok  Liddjlr- 
Dale,  Efq.f 

NUM. 

*  From  the  tumuli  in  OLnrit's  camp,  and  immediately  under  the  CaiUe 
trhich  wai  opened  fome  yean  ago,  it  it  evident,  that  the  lofs  of  IWei,  in  thit 
liege,  muft  have  been  very  great. 

t.  Castleiulk  was  formerly  a  feat  of  the  ancient  lords  of  Annandale,  ind 
came  from  the  Baucas  to  the  Stcwarta  by  WiiLxaa,  High  Steward  of  Scot- 
land, marrying  the  daughter  of  King  Robert  Bruce  ;  and  fo  defcendcd  tv 
Robert,  High  Steward  of  Scotland,  then*  fon,  the  firfi  of  the  Stewaru  ^t 
name  to  the  Crown,  in  ISJI.  It  afterwards  belonged  to  the  Maxwdlt  and  the 
Douglaflcs.  It  wat  befieged  by  the  Duke  of  Smtierfipt,  Protedbor  in  the 

Minority  of  Edward  VI. ;  whofe  flation  ii  dill  extant,  the  balls  being  found 
m  1771,  when  planting  that  fpot,  which  is  ftill  called  "  the  Cannon  Holes-"— 
Sir  John  Stiwaet  of  Caftlcmiik,  sear  Ohfgow,  takes  his  deCgnation  from 
hisplacfr 


of  Ctmbraes^  39 1 


NUMBER    ZXX. 


ISLAND  AND  PARISH  OF  CIMBRAES, 

(fiounty  of  Ayr — Prejbytery  of  Irvine — Synod  of 
Giafgow  and  Ayr^ 


By  «  Friend  of  tie  Rev.  Mr.  Hekrt  GraHAM ,  Minijer  tf 
that  Parijb, 


Name^  Situation^  and  Extent. 

THE  name  Cambrat,  Cimbrat,  or  Cimiraei,  is  faid  to 
be  derived  from  the  Gaelic,  implying  a  place  of  fhelter, 
•r  refage.  It  is  an  ifluid  in  the  Frith  of  Cljde,  furrounded 
by  the  fea,  diftant  from  Largs  a*  milesi  upon  the  E.j  from  the 
liland  of  Bate  4  miles,  to  the  W.;  and  feparated  from  the 
Little  Cimbraes^  upon  the  £[.,  by  a  ftrait  three  quarters  of  a 
mile  over.  The  length  of  the  ifland,  from  N.  £•  to  S.  W., 
is  2y  miles  \  the  breadth,  from  E,  to  W.,  i|  miles*  It  is  of 
an  irregular  figure.  The  furface  contains  about  2»30o  acref, 
one  thif  d  of  which  is,  or  might  be  made,  arable* 

Hil/i  and  ProffeSi. — ^With  few  exceptions,  the  hills  rift 
^ith  a  gentle  aflent^,  to  tbe  various  heights  and  forms  they 


39^  Statiftical  Account 

ftflume,  from  the  ikirts  of  the  ifland,  till  towards  the  centre, 
where  thej  may  come  near  400  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
fiea  ;  and,  unlefs  in  a  or  3  places,  thej  are  not  muchldcnm* 
bered  with  rocks.  The  profpeft,  from  every  point  of  view, 
is  delightful ;  particularly  from  the  S.,  where  the  little  Cim- 
braes,  and  the  Point  of  Pencrofs,  with  their  ancient  caftles, 
bound  it  by  (ea.  The  Frith,  too,  often  difplays  the  beau* 
tiful  fcenery  of  the  extenfive  navigation  of  the  Weft ;  while 
that  noble  beacon,  Eilfa,  rifes  towards  the  horizon ;  andf  to 
the  N.,  Gatefield>  in  Ai^^m,  feems  to  fupport  the  clouds  on 
its  brow  *t 

Climate  and  Di/eafes.'^Tht  ifland,  being  furronnded  by  the 
fea,  and  there  being  little  marfliy  ground,  the  air  is  pure  and 
falubrieus.  Snow  feldom  lies  long ;  and  froft  does  not  pene- 
trate deep,  unlefs  in  very  fevere  winters.  Its  effed  upon  the 
vegetables  in  the  gardens,  is  much  lefs  than  on  the  adjoining 
grounds.  The  pariih  abounds  with  excell^t  fpring  wa- 
ter. Thefe  advantages,  joined  with  temperance  and  indufiry, 
contribute  greatly  to  the  health  of  the  inhabitants.  As  aq 
evidence  of  the  goodnefs  of  the  climate,  there  are  at  prefent 
(May  1793)1  35  people  above  60  years  of  age  in  the  ifland ; 
an  uncommon  number  advanced  in  years,  in  £b  fmall  a  com** 
snunity.  There  is  no  particular  difeaCe  prevalent.  Fevers 
rarely  viiit  the  ifland;  and,  when  they  do,  feldom  prove 
fatal  f •  Inoculation  now  prevails,  which  renders  tb^  {mall-pox 
both  much  milder,  and  more  frequent. 

^  Unlefi  the  weather  it  pvticalafly  dear,  a  cloud  gencnlly  hangs  oa  the 
^of  GcfteficJd. 

f  In  the  year  Z7S3,  a  great  aumber  of  feof\c  were  attacked  by  a  oervoQi 
(ever ;  but  it  proved  fatal  in  only  one  ioflance.  The  finall-pox  fre^oeiitly  made 
great  depredatiooi,  when  the  iniedion  was  iotreduced  bat  once  ia  leveral  years, 
which  indeed  was  the  cafe  about  40  years  a|p,  io  &m(1  places  of  ^tl994 
They  generally  appealed  IP  thofc  d?ys  with  peftilcntial  maliguity. 


rf  Cimbreas:  395 

SoU^  Cultivation^  Produce^  and  Minerals.-^^ht  foil,  in  ge- 
tieialy  is  a  gravelij  loam,  aod  fome  claj.     It  produces  good 
crops  of  oats,    bear,  peafe,  potatoes,  and   fome   flax.    The 
manure,  beiides  what  is  made  on  the  farms,  is  fea  weed,  and 
fliells,  with  fmali  coral,  which  thej  dig  out  of  pits  in  feveral 
parts  of  the  ifland.     It  has  been  obferved,    that  were  the 
{arms  more  generally  inclofed,  and  fubdiyided  and  improved, 
bj  the  introdu&ion  of  turnips  and  fown  grafs,  it  would  add 
much  to  the  fertility  of  the  ifland.     The  advantage  of  thefe 
Improvements,  and  the  addition  of  the  manure,  upon  their 
farms,  that  fuch  crops  would  producre,  could  not  fail,  with 
the  induftry  of  the  farmers  of  this  ifland,  to  be  highly  bene** 
ficial,  and  would  put  the  ground  in  a  progreflive  fltate  of  me- 
lioratioh.    Were  a  plan  of  this  kind  properly  formed,  there 
can  be  little  doubt  but  Suitable  encouragement  would  be  given 
by  the  proprietors,  by  aiBfting  them  in  inclofing  their  farms, 
and  by  lengthening  their  leafes,  which  are  too  fliort,  and  their 
renewal  too  precarious,  for  great  exertions ;  a  circumflance 
which  equally  afleds  the  intereft  of  the  proprietor  and  tenant^ 
There  is  plenty  of  lime-ftone  in  the  ifland ;  but  the  great 
expence  of  coal  has  hitherto  prevented  its  being  ufed  as  ai 
manure*    There  is  alfo  an  unexhauftible  fund  of  free-flohe. 

7rees. — There  are  few  trees  on  (he  ifland  ;  but  the  few  we 
have,  feem  to  grow  tolerably  well.  Lord  Glafgow  has  made 
a  fmall  plantation  of  pines  and  Scotch  firs,  on  a  piece  of 
inoorifli  rifing  ground  ;  and,  fhould  they  thrive,  the  hills 
might  be  planted  farther  up  ;  and,  aflifted  by  the  flielter  of 
th<^e  below,  in  keeping  them  from  the  influence  of  the  fea 
Water,  fuch  plantations  might,  in  time,  be  very  valu- 
able, from  the  demand  on  the  Clyde,"  and  the  adtantage  of 
water  carriage. 

^dt.XI.  3D  Populatiom 


394  Statiftical  Account  \ 

Population.'^Tht  popubition  of  this  ifland  is  nearly  ddoBleJ 
witbin  thefe  40  years.  On  the  ift  of  Jaaoary  1793,  them 
were  in'  the  pariih, 

Mileif  •  ^  .    ^47  PerioDi  under  60  yean  off  age»     474 

¥cmales»            -             -            9/6%  —  between  60  tnd  70,  •     xt 

^— 7*  and  80,  -      10 

Itfali;           -           509                       ■  ■   ■    ao  md  yo,  -      6 

fimiliet,           -            -           x»S              ■     aged  96,           -  -      i 

ATcrage  of  bircht  for  xo  jean*      ao  »-^ 

'     ■'      marriafet, —        4                           Total,           -  509 

■  deaths,  ■■  S{ 

The  return  to  Dr.  Webfter,  in  1755,  wai        ...         -        -  159 

<    Hence  there  U  an  increafe  of        v       •        *        •        .        a^e 

The  number  of  weavers  ia       «      4        Number  of  joinen,  -  j 

I        I  tailow  -  5  mafoni  and qoarrieri*,  x6 

Cattle^  CdmrniTce^  fijb^  ManufaSures^  iic. — There  are  tt 
prefeot,  on  the  iflandi  33  horfes,  350  black  cattle,  and  347 
jheep.  The  prices  of  provifions  are  regulated  by  the  Green- 
ock market.  The  farmers  £nd  a  ready  lale  for  what  they 
can  fpace,  after  fupplying  tfieir  familiesi  among  the  feafaring 
people  ancf  tradefmen' ;.  who,  befides  a  ready  market,  lave 
them  the  expence  of  carriage.  The  fifli  chiefly  caugBt  here, 
are  baddocks^  cod,  whitings,  lyth^  cuddies*  mackerel,  and  a 
few  herrings.  Of  fliell  fi(h,  too,  there  is  feme  variety,  but' 
in  no  great  quantity.  No  manufadures  of  itny  cbnfequence 
bave  ever  been  attempted  here.  The  chief  obfiacles,  to  any 
confiderable  exertion  in  that  way,  are  the  ezpence  of  fueV, 
the  want  of  a  fufficient  run  of  water  to  drive  machinery)  and 

the 

•  The  fiamtn  *d  their  (ertaiftt  oonJUtnte  but  a  ihiall  partof  the  con* 
ihunity,  the  feafaring  people  being  the  moft  numerous.  Servants  wages  are 
much  the  fame  as  in  the  naghbouring  parifiies :  men  fertanu  from  61.  to  81. 
Sterling,  a  year ;  women,  from  3!.  to  4U-  A  malbn  gets  %9^  a  joiiicr  xs.*Sd.yan4 
a  uilor  xod.,  with  meat,  per  day. 


^fClmbraes^  ^5 

Ihe  ferry  being  ofmi  interrupted  bj  ftorms.  From  x6qo  to 
$090  yards  of  coarfe  linen,  hpwever,  and  fome  linen  yarny 
are  exported  from  the  ifland ;  with  free-ftoiie,  to  the  value 
pf  fully  more  than  aool.  a  year\ 

VUlagt^  Harbour  and  Roais — The  village  of  Milnfort,  con- 
(toins  about  60  houfcs,  which  have  been  mollly  built  within  thefit 
S5  years,  aad  are  ftill  increafing.  Jt  is  pleafantly  ficuated  on  tb^ 
S*  W*  fide  of  the  i^nd,  and  has  a  commodious  dry  harbour, 
that  will  admit  vefTels  of  i^nfiderable  burden,  particularly  du«> 
ring  fpring  ti|de«,  when  the  water  rifes  from  10  to  19  feet  along 
|he  (hore9*  There  is  alfo  an  anchoring  ground,  which  is  well 
iJielter^  by  a  fmall  rocky  i^^nd,  where  veflels  may  be  moor- 
ed to  irpn  rings  in  the  pKks,  and  ride  in  ikfety  in  the  greateft 
itorms.  The  profperity  of  thb  village,  as  well  as  that  of  th^ 
ifland,  is  much  owing  to  its  being  the  rendezvous  of  the  Royal 
Qeorge  revenue  cutter^  Captain  James  Crawford.  The  offi* 
cers  and  crew  of  tbis  veflel  are  inhabitants  of  the  ifland.  Therf 
^  little  dope  to  the  roads,  excepting  to  that  between  the  vil- 
lage and  ferry,  which  has  lately  been  repaired,  and  a  ready 
intercQurCe  eftabliflied  between  tbe  ifland  and  Largs, 

Proprietors  and  l{/ii/j.-r-The  whole  ifland  belongs  to  th« 
^arls  of  Glafgowf  and  Bute.  The  valued  rent  is  1087I.  8s.  2d* 

3D  a  Scotch; 

*  An  the  free-ftone,  enployed  in  ereding  the  mncli  improved  hirbour  of 
^oftpatrick,  was  taken  from  tiiis  ifland. 

t  About  the  beginning  of  laft  centorf ,  according  to  the  tradition  of  tbe 
ifland,  there  wata  family  of  the  name  of  Montgomerie,  who  then  pofleflcd  the 
-ficateft  part  of  the  land  now  belonging  to  Lord  Glafgow,  and  had  a  manflon 
Amab  «t  BiUikellet.  Among  the  lail  of  that  family  wm  Dame  Margaret  Monu 
foneiir,  joint  patroneft  of  the  kirk,  who»  being  onhorfeback  at  the  green  of  the 
Jarga^  ia  laid  to  have  been  thrown  off  amidft  a  crowd  of  people;  but,  being  a 
^imasn  of  .hi^  f|pirit|  flic  pnifaed  (he  (Mvfei  and  received  a  ftroke  of  his  foot, 

which 


39^  Stati/fkal  Account 

Scotch ;  the  real  rent  is  nearly  700L  The  arerage  rent  o^ 
the  arable  land  maj  be  from  los.  to  I2s«  per  acre ;  and  the 
remainder  of  heath  and  pafture,  firom  xs.  to  as.  per  acre.      ^ 

Cburcbt  Poorf  and  ScbooL^-^The  value  of  the  living  is  about 
70I.,  with  a  toiall  glebe.  The  Earl  of  Glafgow  is  patron. 
The  church  was  bnilt  iq  the  1611,  and  is  now  too  fmaH  to 
accommodate  the  inhabitants.  The  manfe  was  bnik  abottt 
26  years  ago,  and  is  in  good  repair.  There  are  few  poor  np« 
on  the  fefBon  lift.  The  coUedions  made  at  the  church  door, 
amounting  to  about  16I.,  with  the  intereft  of  a  fmall  fund^ 
is  nearly  equal  to  their  fupport.  Englifliy  writing,  and  arith^ 
roetic,  are  carefully  taught,  and  the  fchool  is  pretty  well  at- 
tended ;  but  the  fchoolmafter's  ialary  and  perquifites  are  veij 
Rifling. 

Natural  Curiofities. — ^There  are  two  rocks,  called  Refptt 
s  Walls^  on  the  E.  fide  of  the  ifland.  They  rife  out  of  the  de* 
vated  ground,  and  run  along,  or  rather  acrols,  a  plain  near 
the  fea,  in  the  dircftion  of  S.  by  £.,  and  N.  by  W.,  diftant 
from  each  other  500  feet,  running  in  parallel  lines ;  the  one 
to  the  £•  about  30  feet  in  height,  89  in  length,  mean  thick- 
nefs  10  feet ;  that  to  the  W.  loo  feet  long,  70  feet  high, 
where  it  comes  out  of  the  hill,  and  £0  feet  near  its  outer 
"end;  the  thicknefs  xa  feet.  In  the  fame  direction,  there  is 
the  appearance  of  a  foundation  running  into  the  (ea.  Some* 
thing  itmilar  to  thefe  are  feen  in  the  oppofite  fide  of  the  iflanik 

They 

vrhich  proved  inftaatly  fatal.  The  arms  of  this  family  are  upon  tlie  end  of  the 
kirk,  and  were  lately  to  be  fcea  on  a  part  of  the  mint  of  BitlikeUet.  AboiK  ^ 
4|iiarter  of  a  mile  from  BtUikellet,  there  it  a  laige  ftonc  fet  np  00  cad.  About  6 
feet  of  it  is  above  the  ground.  Ic  appears  to  have  been  the  mde  momimait  aC 
fome  ancient  hera  There  it  is  alfo  a  phu:e  which  the  iohabltaa$i  poiac  «Bt|«s 
haviBg  beta  a  Daniih  ump,  though  no  veftigcs  of  it  now  remain. 


•  * 

*  ff  CAmhraes^  395P 

Thej  have  joints  and  feams  like  the  bafaltic  rocks  in  Staffa, 
but  not  columnar.  They  are  compofed  of  the  {ame  materials, 
and  may  be  eftirtiated  as  the  prodndion  of  volcanic  fufion  and 
eruption ;  a  procefs  of  nature,  vrhich,  however  dreadful  and 
tremendouSy  feems  to  be  produdive  of  the  greateil  changes 
the  furface  of  this  globe  has  undergone* 

CharaBtr. — ^The  people  are  fober,  regular  and  induftrious, 
in  a  remarkable  degree.  It  is  not  known ,  that  any  perfou 
bom  in  this  pariih  has  ever  ftood  trial  before  a  criminal  court. 
Coofidering  their  opportunity  of  improvement,  diey  may  I»e 
deemed  intelligent ;  and  it  is  but  juftice  to  the  feafaring  part  of 
the  community  to  fay,  that,  fq^  their  line  of  life,  their  general 
conduft  is  peculiarly  -pvoper  and  praife-worthy . 


NVM^ 


^9^  St^i/Heal  4tfm$ 

NUMBER    XXXI. 
PARISH  OF  KING.EDWARD. 

ifrijbytpry  gf  tnrr^hr-(kmtf  (otd  Sjimod  pf  4btrim:\ 
Pjf  AzxxAKDER  Snmoir,  A.M.  Sfhtntmujltr  of  tht  Barifk. 


K 


Nam$^  Figure^  River^  Surface,  and  Spil. 
EN-ED AR  was  the  ancient  name  of  the  parlfli,  vhkk 


like  all  the  old  names  of  places  in  this  countxy,  is  np 
doubt  a  word  of  Gaelic  derivation.  The  parifli  is  of  an  ob? 
long  irregular  figure,  from  the  northern  eiLtremitj,  which  is 
within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  the  town  of  Banff,  extending  i| 
Engliih  miles  S«£.  and  varying  from  3  to  5  miles  in  breadtL 
The  Deveron  runs  along  the  W.  end  of  it  for  fevcral  mileS| 
and  divides  it  from  the  parifli  of  Alvah  ^  but  two  detached 
parts  of  the  latter  lie  on  this  fide  the  river,  one  of  which 
ineeting  the  parifh  of  Gamrj,  entirely  disjoins  the  N.  end  of 
this  pari(h  from  the  reft.  The  country,  though  flat,  rather 
than  hilly,  is  diverfified  with  high  and  low  grounds,  and  in? 
terfeded  hj  feveral  bums  and  rivulet?.  All  the  higher  lands 
ure  covered  i^ith  (hort  heath,  and  except  where  the  foil  is  en- 
tirely mofs,  or  extremely  poor,  retain  marks  of  former  cul- 
tivation*   The  foil  is  in  general  dry  and  gravellyi  but,  as 


^  King-TLdnx/ard.  399^ 

fii/'be  expefiedy  in  a  parUh  of  fuch  extent,  fields  of  a  diflb- 
reot  and  oppofite  nature  are  not  uncommon. 

Hiritars^  Escteni,  Reni,  Scc-^The  parifli  is  the  property 
•f  the  Earl  of  Fil^,  William  Urqnhart  of  Craigfton,  Adam 
Urquhart  of  Bjth,  ■  C^ordon  of  Iden,  and  John  RufleH 

and  John  Tajlor  of  Balmad ;  all  of  whom,   except  the  Easl 
of  Fife  and  the  proprietor  of  Iden,  refide  in  the  parifli.    From 
Ml  aftiial  furvej  of  the  feveral  eilates,  except  that  of  Iden,  a- 
computation  of  the  meafurement  of  which   is  here  included, 
the  parifli  is  found  to  contain  14,000  Scotch  acres^  of  which 
648a  are  arable,  440a  moor  and  pafture^  and  1982  mois.   Ott 
the  property  of  the  Earl  of  Fife  there  are  550  acres  of  woo^ 
on  that  of  Mr.  Urquhart  of  Craigfton  500^  and   on  that  of 
Mr.  Urquhart  of  Bjth  84  acres,  conlifling  of  various  kindsr 
of  foreft  trees ;  bat  chiefly  Scotch  fir.     In  low  and  flieltered 
fituations,  the  wood  is  thriving  and  of  laige  fize ;  but  in  thoie 
that  are  elevated,,  and  more  expoCed  to  the  killing  blafts  from 
the-  N.  fea,.  it  rifes  little  higher  than  a  flirub ;  however,  under 
cover  of  thefe  flirubs,  a  fecond  plantation  makes  greater  pro^ 
grefs  ;  fo  that  by  attention  and  perfeverance,  trees  of  confider^ 
able  fize  may  be  raifed  in  places  which  appear  the  mod  unfa-^ 
vourable  te  their  growth.     The  valued  rent  of  the  parifli  ig 
40981.  6».  8d.  Scotch  ;  the  prefent  rent,  including.  141 7  boUa 
of  meal,  at  xos.  per  boll,  is  not  under  aaSjL  Sterlbg.    CuC* 
toms  and  perfoaal  Cervices  are  &lling  into  difule,  and  on  the 
Earl  of  Fife's  eftate  they  are  all  commuted*    The  heritors  of 
Balmad  enjoy  only  the  increafe  of  rent  which  has  taken  place 
fince  the  year  X750,  or  thereabout,  when  this  eftate  was  ibid, 
by  King's  College ;  the  rent  which  it  bore  at  the  time  of  tbo 
fide  contmues  to  be  paid  to  the  iaid  College  and  the  ibhool  of 
Fordyce* 

Ft/bify.—^Tiht  (almoa  fi^g  oa  the  Deveroni  below  the 

cruivef. 


4c6  Statifiical  Jccount 

hkaivtSt  k  partly,  in  this  and  partlj  in  the  patUh  of  Banff; 
and  being  the  property  of  the  JLad  of  Fife,  and  let  to  €um 
tackfman,  the  rent,  as  far  as  this  parifli  is  concerned,  cannot 
be  ezadlj  afcertained.  An  acconnt  of  the  rent  of  the  whole 
has  been  anticipated,  in  the  report  for  the  pariSi  of  Gamiy*. 
The  falmon  canght  above  the  cruires  are  fold  at  home  at  od. 
J>erlb. 

Mills  and  Mu Iturts. -^Thc  parifli  Is  accommodated  with 
dlrnt  mills,  a  wanlk  mills,  and  lo  fbr  grinding  com.  For 
^in  carried  to  the  mill,  the  rate  of  mnltnre  raries  from 
TT  to  iV»  ^d  for  what  Is  fold  nnmanufadnred  iV  Is  general- 
ly ezaded,  which  Is  called  dry  or  abftrafied  mnltnre.  From 
thefe  mills,  the  heritors,  who  have  their  tenants  reftri&ed  to 
a  certain  mill,  receive  annually  about  328  bolls  of  meal,  part 
of  the  rent  in  grain  before  mentioned.  To  enable  the  tackf« 
men  to  pay  this  mill  rent,  and  to  defray  their  own  labour 
and  charges,  the  quantity  of  meal  made  annually  in  the  pa- 
rifli, together  with  the  grain  fold  uomanufadured,  muft  be 
irom  7000  to  8oao  bolls. 

Chnrcb  and  School. — ^The  Rev.  Mt.  RoBEax  Durr  is  mi- 
niflcr  of  the  parifli.  The  church,  which  is  an  old  buildiag, 
has  been  repaired,  and  the  manfe  rebuilt  fincehis  admiiBon  to 
the  charge.  The  living  is  60I.  lbs.  id.  Sterling,  in  mdhey ;  4 
thalders,  2  firlots,  a  pecks,  of  meal,  and  x  chalder  of  bear, 
with  a  glebe  of  12  or  13  acres  of  arable  and  paflnre  land. 
The  King  is  patron. — The  fchoolmafter*s  falary«  lately  aug- 
mented, and  paid  by  the  heritors,  is  lol.;  as  feflion-clerk  he 
receives  al.  js.  4d.  Scotch,  for  a  proclamation  of  marriage,  and 
for  rcgiftration  of  a  baptifm  6f d.  Sterling,  each.  At  prefent 
the  number  of  fcholars  is  27,  who  are  taught  to  read  Englifli 

ac 

♦  S(e  Vol  I.,  No.  L. 


5^  King^Ednuard.  401 

«;   IS.,  wriuog,  arithznqtic,  or  X^atio,  at  as.  .6d^  pef  guar- 
tcr.  , 

jnwr.-:^The  nntnbev  6f-  fi(MJr  at  prefent  on  the  roll  is  19. 
Tfie'colkftioAjT  in  the  church  z8l,;  intereft  ofttionej  fiiyed,  lal. 
t08. ;  antaiiflfl  r«ot  of  a  mortification,  61.  los. ;  feat  rents,  il. 
5«#  \  penffleiis,  •  and  the  ufe  of  a  ttiortctoth,'  5L  make  a  jearlj 
revenutf  oif  431*  5s.  for  their  iapport. 

PifpntatkHi-^^^Uhe  p^putatibn  «f  this  pari(h  has  been  almoft 
ilaticnarf  f<A'  the  fe  laft  10  Ijreir^,  but  has '  Inereafed  above 
one  6th  within  the  30  preceling  : 

In  the  jeair  1783,  the  number  ©f  fouls  was  1572 

In  ' r-  1793^"  is         -         -         •       ^577' 

L     Increafe  5 

Bntin— — «  1755,  it  was^bl/        -        -    ^35*     ■*— .  220 

Total  increafe  p.  40  years,       .-         225 

Of  Aefe  there  are  belonging  to  the  Eilabliilied  Church,   1510 
Epifeopala,  ■    ^    -  30  Relief  S^cedefs,     -      15 

Sjoman  Catfaolicst  8     .       fiereanst/      .    •  4 

Ptllage. — 'New  Byth,  which  is'fhe  only  v?f!age  in  the  pa- 
rilh,  began  to  be  feued  in  1764,  oh  a  plan  fimilar  to  that  of 
Cnmineftown  in  Monqubitter  ^.  It  contains  195  inhabitants, 
and  enjoys  the  advantage  of  a  charity  fchool.  By  feuing'and 
dividing  th'e  land  into  fmall  parcels,  James  Urquhatt,  the  late 
proprietor  of  Byth,  raifed  the  rent  of  his  eftfte  nearly  to  5 
times  what  it  was  in  1731,  when  he  came  to*  the  manage- 
ment of  it.  The  valuation  of  this  eftate  is  only  one  icth,  and 
the  number  of  its  inhabitants  more  than  one  4ih  of  the  whole 
'parilh. 

Vol.  XI,  3  E  A 

•«cc  V«l.  VI. 'No.  XVlir. 


409  Statifticdl  Account 

A  ho\ife,  formerly  intended  as  a  linen  naanufaftorj,  aii4  for 
fome  time  ufed  as  foch,  diSant  from  the  pariik  church  lo 
miles, was  Uft  year  conrerted  info  a  d»apel  of  eafe^  tat  dieaoaooD^ 
modation  of  the  people  at  Bjth^  Application  waa  made  to  the 
Society  for  Propagating  Chriftian  ^owbdge,  for  thr  aid  of 
fheir  boontf »  who,  with  refervation  of  the  right  of  pa(iop- 
lige,  agreed  to  give  251.  »-jear  for  Ae  fnpport  of  a  clergy- 
aaan,  upon  condition  that  the  heritor  of  Bjth  woold  gi^e  fe« 
icurity  for  this  fiune  (urn,  a^brd  hioa  a  dfreili|ig*ho»fo  and 
offices,  with  )aod  fufficient  to  ousintain  %  horfe  and  a  oows. 
As  thefe  conditions  are  con^plied  with,  (he  affiiir  will  be  eftt- 
Uiihed  on  fnch  ^  footing  as  to  affi>rd  a  deceit  living  to  the 
mifiionarjy  and  be  a  lading  advantage^  not  only  to  this  pa- 
rifli,  bi^i  to  thofe  parts  of  fome  neighbouring  pariijies,  which 
gre  alfo  diftant  from  their  owf^  churches^ 

Agriculture^  i^f, — ^All  the  people,  even  thofe  who  are 
handicraftfroen  and  artificers,  are  employed  in  agfftoilture. 
According  to  their  extent,  and  the  quality  of  the  Ifndt  the 
rent  of  forms  vfries  from  <SL  to  85I,,  valuii^g  the  meal  at  lOs. 
per  bolU  Improvementa  in  agriculture  have  made  confider- 
able  progress  for  fpme  years  pa^.  Tb^  aiode  of  culture,  and 
rotation  of  crops,  haye  undergone  a  great  an4  almoft  tot^ 
alteration  ^nce  the  year  1745  ;  Even  later  than  that  period, 
the  ufe  apd  efficacy  qf  lime  as  a  ipanure  *,  thfs  jidvantage  of 
artificial  grafles,  fa^ow,  and  greeo  crops,  wefe  littje  known : 
Thefe  are  now  fo  common,  that  not  only  the  principal  iarm- 
er^i  }>Ht  aln)e(t  every  cqtUger,  has  a  proportioii  of  bis  laod 

|a 

*  Inftfad  of  each  farmer  for  himfelf  ^mtng  time  at  home,  tviiich  tSU  lately 
^»  the  geperal  prajAice,  ihell  UiOfC  from  luiglaod  and  the  S.  of  fcotlaii4  it  im- 
ported  by  thofe  priacipally  who  are  dUbnt  from  Umo4boe.  It  it  oolj  5  or  6 
rears  iince  thii  trade  began,  apd  fo  much  1^  the  de^u^d.  iacrealed,  that  14 
^f^<^t  Iffte  inioof ted  at  Macdttff  this  kzUiU. 


rf  King^Edward.  40  J 

In  potateeS|  turnip,  8od  dovcr.  Small  black  oats,  which 
formerlj  occupied  what  was  called  the  out.fieldi  have  given 
place  to  white  oats }  and  the  diftiD£Hon  of  infield  and  outfield 
begins  to  be  lefs  attended  to.  After  fallow  or  turaipsi  where 
the  land  is  drj,  the  following  crop  ts  barlej^  widi  fown  grafa 
for  3  or  4  years  ^  where  the  land  is  wet,  oats  are  found  to 
focceed  better.  After  breaking  up^  the  rotation  differs  ac- 
cording lo  the  nature  of  the  foil,  and  genius  of  the  fanner^ 
Afoft  families  raifc  flax  fufficieut  for  private  ufe  ;  and  fomo 
have  obtaiacd  premiums  from  the  tntftees.-*^^The  advan-' 
tages  of  inelofures  are  better  tinderftood  than  experienced^ 
Excepting  the^elds  in  the  immediate  poileflion  of  fome  of  the 
heritors,  we  have  few  fenced  with  done  or  hedge.  Stones  fit. 
for  building  are  not  to  be  found  above  ground  in  anj  part  of 
the  pariih ;  and  tnclofing  with  hedg«,  or  ftoae  quarried  and 
carried  to  a  diftance^  would  be  attended  wkh  an  expence^ 
greater  than  the  rent  of  land  and  the  fhortaefa  of  leafes  can 
afford.  Though  fome  of  the  heritors  are  difpofed  to  make 
uompenfatioa  at  the  expiration  of  a  leafe,  for  building  and  in-« 
clofing ;  jet  the  expence  of  both,  or  either  of  thefc,  would 
fink  too  much  of  the  fmall  ftock,  with  which  manjcoBunencar 
^  iarmers« 

Manmr  6fthnn^^  Produce^  6^4 — Animal  foocf  is  tzttlj  an 
article  in  the  bill  of  fare,  but  on  holidays  $  among  the  bettei^ 
fort  of  farmers,  tea  is  ufed  once  and  cften  twice  a-day  ;  and 
oQcafionally  among  tbofe  of  inferior  rank.  Inflcad  of  ale^ 
with  which  our  forefathers  ufed  to  make  merry,  whiiky  poncb 
IS  now  ufcd  at  all  (bcial  meetings.  Oa(s,  bear,  aad  peafe^' 
meal,  potatoes,  and  other  vegetables,  with  milk,  oonftituta 
the  ordinary  fare  of  the  bulk  of  the  people,  Befides  what  is 
fieceffary  for  this  purpofe,  all  the  rent  paid  in  grain,  and  a 
confiderablc  quantity  of  meal  and  grain,  belonging  to  the  te- 

3  E  »  aaott 


404  Statf^ical  jfccwnt 

nants»  are  anmially  exported  to  the  S.  aiit  W«  of  Scotland. 
When  the  price  is  low,  bear-meal  foqietimes  finds  a  market 
in  Norway.  The  brewery  of  ale  and  porter  at  BanlF»  aad 
the  foiall  licenfed  whi&y  ftilb  in  the  neighbourhood,  afford  a 
good  market  for  barley :  Thefe  laft,  befides  increafing  the  con* 
fumption  and  price  of  barley,  and  fupplying  us  with  whiikj, 
of  a  quality  greatly  faperior  to  what  we  have  from  the  large 
ftills  in  the  foothem  difiriAs,  as  well  as  cheaper,  and  no  le(s 
whoUfome  than  foreign  fpirits^have  given  a  great  check  to fmug- 
gling,  and,  in  every  point  view,  are  a  reciprocal  advantage  to 
the  farmers,  and  the  country  at  large*.  Eitending  the  pa- 
ilure,  and  rearing  cattle  for  the  grazier  and  drover,  arc  at 
^refent  the  principal  objefis  of  the  farmer ;  for  this  purpofe 
turnips  are  more  frequently  applied  to,  than  feeding  for  the 
butcher..  A  high  proportion  of  rent  in  kind  is  fometimes  an 
obflruftion  to  this  mode  of  farming,  as  it  lays  the  tenant  un- 
der the  neceflity  of  keeping  more  land  io  tillage,  than  he  can 
properly  manure,  which  mull  prevent  him  from  having  ei- 
ther fo  much  grafs  or  corn,  as  he  might  have,  at  Icfs  expence, 
a  not   £0  red  rifted.     But  the  convcrfion  of  fuch  rent  into 

money 


*  la  I78>,  fome  farms  of  an  early  foil  produced  what  was  neeeflary  to  pay 
ifiafter  and  fervant ;  but  the  deficiency  of  the  crop  of  that  year,  was  Tuch,  io 
geoeial,  as  to  make  the  in<portation  of  grain  from  England  neeeflary.  It  would 
be  doing  injuftice  to  the  principal  proprietors  uf  the  parifli»  sot  to  mentioo  that 
they  Tolnntarily  (hared  the  calamity  of  that,  and  the  following  ycar»  by  fupply- 
ing  the  people  with  meal  and  ^grain  at  a  reduced  price,  accepting  bear-meaJ  in- 
ftcad  of  oat-meal  for  part  of  their  grain  rent,  and  a  moderate  comrcrfion  inmo- 
iiey  for  what  they  could  not  afford  to  pay  in  kind.  fiy«thcfc  a(5^s  of  humanity 
•D  the  part  of  the  heritors,  the  dilburfcment  of  Sol.  cxrraordinary  from  the 
poor's  fund,  -and  15  bolls  of  meal  fent  by  Government,  the  waou  of  the  poor 
were  fupplicd,  and  the  uniortuoate  aflifted.  An  advance  in  the  price  of  black 
cattle,  and  the  plentiful  crop  1784,  ftiH  "wre  cffcw^ually  repaired  the  loft  fuf- 
•  tained  by  the  two  preceding  years,  which  w^uld  othtrwilc  have  been  more 
deeply  f«lt. 


of  King-Edward.  405 

money  having  in  feme  inflances  taken  place,  and  every  ad- 
dition of  rent,  oh  renewing  a  leafe,  beng  now  in  money,  thfs 
inconvenience  will  feon  be  removed. 

Cattle^  JVageSj,(fx. — The  pariih  at  prefent  maintains  179^ 
hUck  cattle,  447  horfes,  and  1334  iheep.  About  400  black 
cattle  can  be  ^red  annually;  moll  of  them  being  fold.yoqng, 
at  or  aader  3  years  old,  the  average  price  may  be  eflimated 
at  3I.  xjs.  The  number  of  ploughs  is  135,  of  which  15  are 
drawn  by  oxen,  76  by  2  horfes,  end  44  by  4  horfes^  each  ;*— 
of  carta  316,  of  which  3  sre  drawn  by  oxen,  76  by  a  horfes 
in  a  line,  and  247  by  a  fingle  horfe  each.  By  a  flronger 
breed  of  horfies,  and  an  improved  conflruftion  of  ploughs  and 
carts,  the  operatious  of  hufbandry  ave  greatly  facilitated,  and 
the  increafing  price  of  labour  in  fome  meafure  counterbalan- 
ced. A  fingle  man,  wxiji  a  pair  of  horfes,  will  do  more  work 
in  the  fame  time,  than  was  performed  by  2  men  and  4  horfes, 
40  years  ago.  The  hire  of  a  man  qualified  to  work  a>pair  of 
bor&s  is  from  61.  to  81. ;— of  a  woman  faim-fervant,  fron\ 
aU  los.  to  3U  per  annum  ;— of  a  man  engaged  for  harvell  il. ' 
108. ; — of  a  woman  for  ditto,  il.  zs.,  with  maintainance.  The 
day-labourer  earns  8d.  with,  or  lod.  without  maintenance ; 
when  employed  at  cutting  hay,  is.  with^  or  is.  4d.  without 
viflnals.  Women  are  chiefly  employed  in  making  woollen 
and  linen  cloth  for  family  ufe,  and  partly  for  fale,  fpinning 
flax  for  the  tlhread  and  linen  maimfa£tttrers,  knttcing  dock- 
ings, and  in  the  dairy  *• 

Sbeef, 

*  About  60  yean  ago,  they  were  much  emplored  in  making  a  rpecles  of 
woollen  rioth  called  mL&iii:  wr6.'^  containtng  30  elU  each,  which  were  nfually 
fold  at  Is.  per  ell.  At  the  above  period,  and  for  fome  year  a  after,  when  the 
oiunbcr  of  Iheep  was  perhaps  ten  times  what  It  is  at  prcfcnt,  this  manufadurff 
Riuft  have  been  verjr  advantageous;  but  from  the  defire  of  pTefirnt  profit*  the 
rioih  was  often  made  fo  flight  and  coarfe,  as  to  ruin  a  trade,  which,  under 
proper  management,  might  have  been  of  lafling  benefit  Co  the  country* 


4o6  Statiftical  Account 

Sieept  Commercej  Sec— .When  iheep  abounded  bere^    the 
pafture,  which  for  a  great  part  of  the  year  was  cofDoaon,  ivaa 
fo  overftockedy  and  fo  little  food  afforded  them  in  time  of 
fnow,  that  manj  hundreds  died  in  a  fevere  feafon ;  and  chofe 
that  fanrived  were  of  fmall  fixe  and  value.     When  fo  lUttle 
attention  was  paid  to  them»   the  profits  of  a  flock  muft  bare 
been  fmall  and  uncertain,  which,  with  the  expence  of  winter 
herding,  when  turnips  and  fown  grab  were  introduced*    maj 
be  afligned  as  the  principal  caufes*  whj  their  number   as  lb 
greatlj  diminiflied.     Where  thej  fiill  retain  tbeit  ground, 
the  breed  is  improved  both  as  to  fize  and  quality  of  tirooL 
The  articles  which  bring  in  money,  are  grain,  cattle,  butter, 
eheefe,  and  linen  jam.     Of  thefe,  cattle,  in  the  opinion  of  tbe 
mod  judicious  farmers,  is  the  flaple  commodity. 

Roads  and  Fuel. — ^The  public  roads  are  made  and  repaired 
by  the  flatute  labour,  which  the  people  perform  with  reluc* 
tance,  and  often  in  a  foperficial  manner.  The  poft  road  from 
Banff  to  Turriff  is  well  fupplied  with  bridges^  and  has  of  late 
been  much  improved ;  but  on  this,  as  well  as  on  many  pri- 
rate  roads,  much  remains  to  be  done.  It  is  the  general  opt* 
nion,  that  affeffments  in  money,  or  the  introduftion  of  turx>. 
pikes,  are  the  only  effe&ual  way  of  making  and  keeping  the 
roads  in  good  repair,  as  the  experience  of  many  years  ihews 
the  fiatttte  labour  to  be  inadequate  to  that  piirpofe.-<^Ptats, 
turf,  and  broom,  are  ufed  for  fuel.  Wet  feafons,  of  whieh 
we  have  had  many  of  late,  together  with  the  great  expenee 
of  preparing  and  bringing  home  peats,  induced  many  to  burn 
Eoglifli  coal,  even  before  the  late  redudion  of  duty  on  that 
neceffary  of  life  took  place. 

CharaQer  of  the  People. — The  people  are  fober  and  induf- 
iciotts,  fttbmif&ve  to  tke  laws,  and  attached  to  their  refpec* 

tive 


of  King^I^dward.  407 

tive  heritors.  Though  not  in  affluent  circumflaoces,  they  tU 
enjoy  the  neceiTariedy  and  many  of  them,  the  comforts  of  life  ^ 
and  feem  as  well  fattsfied  with  their  fituation  as  can  be  ex« 
pe&ed.,  In  point  of  living,  drefs,  and  cleanlinefs,  their  con* 
dition  is  fuperior  to  what  it  was  in  former  times.  It  is  high- 
Ij  reafonaUe,  that  an  order  of  men,  by  the  fruit  of  whofe  la- 
boars  all  are  fed,  (hould  enjoy  fuch  a  competence  as  to  make 
their  condition  eafy  and  comforuble*  They  claim  the  fup- 
port  and  encouragement  of  all  who  wiih  well  to  their  (^oun- 
try,  who  have  any  iatercft  in  its  pxofperity,  or  power  to  pro- 
mote iu 

Propoftd  JmprovimenU^'^To  give  greater  encouragement 
to  the  induftrious,  and  make  improvements  in  agricnlture 
nu)re  permanent  and  ejctenCve,  nothing  is  more  requifite  In 
this  place  than  longer  leafes.  The  ufoal  period  of  Icafes  does 
not  eacceed  19  years  \  though,  it  mud  be  owned,  there  are 
ezceptiene  on  Craigfton's  and  the  Earl  of  Fife's  e&ates.«»-The 
converfion  of  multures,  and  particularly  of  abftra&ed  muU 
tures,  might  likewife  promote  this  end,  and  would  certainly 
free  the  future  generation  from  an  accumulating  tax  on  im« 
ptovement.  As  what  is  here  fuggelled  is  at  prefent  in  agita-* 
tion,  and  has  already,  in  fome  inftances,  taken  place,  this 
grievance  will  be  foon  remedied,  and  the  people  enjoy  the 
fame  privilege  in  manufafiuring  their  grain,  which  they  have 
in  making  their  carts  and  ploughs,  of  employing  thofe  who 
ferve  them  bed. 

CaftU  —On  the  poft  road  from  Turriff  to  Banff,  flands  the 
ruin  of  the  Caftle  of  King  Edward  {iwovfi  which  the  parith 
probably  derived  its  name),  the  ancient  feat  of  the  once 
powerful  Earl  of  Bucban  *.    It  feems  to  have  been  a  placa 

of 

^  |a  the  Ttsr  1%J%»  A<.szampse  Comin,  Barl  of  BveaaM,  fouad^  an  Hot* 

pit4 


4o8  Stattftical  Account 

of  great  Arengtb,  fortified  on  the  S.  fide  b/  a  fteep  rock, 
wafhed  by  the  bum  of  King-Edward^  and,  on  the  other  fide, 
where  the  fite  of  the  building  is  on  a  level  with  the  a^ja.- 
ccnt  ground,  by  a  wide  and  deep  ditch. 


NDBff- 


pitil  at  Turriff,  and  endowed  it  with  a  ccrtaui  extent  of  land  in  the  nciabboor- 
hood  of  that  TilUge,  and  an  ansnal  payment  of  p'ain,  i  chaldert  of  meal,  and 
%  chalders  of  bear,  in  lien  of  the  tythet  of  his  Caftle  of  KtV-MAK.  This  faoC- 
pital  was  to  contain  13  poor  men  who  had  been  laboaren  in  the  cwiotry  ci£ 
Buchan,  and  a  mafler  and  6  chaplaint,  who  were  to  iky  daily  prayon  for  hin 
fcui,  for  the  imiJk  of  hia  predecdSbra  tad  fuceeffort,  and  of  King  Alixa  v^sn. 
the  III. 

A  law  was  hrtely  opened  on  the  farm  of  Strathairy,  in  which  was  found  a 
imall  urn  conuinlng  fome  aflies ;  in  digging  away  the  earth  many  loofe  irre^lar 
ftones  were  fannd,  particnlariy  round  the  bafe  of  the  monnt ,  and  in  feme  plaoea 
narks  of  fire  were  difcovered.  On  the  lame  farm  there  n  a  iinaH  fyot,  called 
OiirtM  QaovM»»  whidi,  till  Ute'y,  it  Wat  thought  iacriiege  to  break  with  ^wdc 
or  plough.  It  if  now  conyened  into  a  com  field,  nor  has  any  interruption  beet& 
given  by  the  ancient  proprietors.  This  ii  mentioned  at  one  iniUnce,  amoD^ 
■lany^  of  the  decline  of  faperftition. 


N  U  M  B  E  BL     XXXIL 

PARISH  or  crimon'Tj: 

{CoMUy  and  Synod  0/  jAirdini^'^Pri/hyiiry  of  Deer.) 

By  Mr.  William  Gall,  AHifiant  to  the  Rev.  Mr.  James 
Johnston  Mtnifier  of  the  Par\/b. 


SittiatioHf  Exteni^  Smfetee^  and  Rhmlett^  &c. 

THE  parifli  of  Crimond  b  fituated  in  that  diftrift  of 
Abcxdeeoibirei  called  Bttchany  and  lies  nearly  in  a  line  • 
between  the  lea  port  towns  of  Peterhead  and  Fraferiborgh  1 
being  aboot  ^f  miks  diilant  from  the  former,  and  7f  from 
the  latter;  and  bounded  on  the  N.  E.  bj  the  German  Ocean. 
The  fignre  of  the  pariih,  including  die  Loch  of  Scrathbegt 
(part  of  which  is  in  the  pariih  of  Loanmay),  is  triangular. 
'  The  bafe  of  the  triangle,  adjacent  to  the  German  Ocean,  is 
nearly  3  miles,  and  its  height  is  about  5i  miles.    It  contains 
about  4600  acres,  of  which  nearlj  3000  are  araUe.    The  re- 
mainder is  occupied  by  mofles,  links,  fands,  a  common,  and 
the  lake  of  Strathbeg*    About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  high 
water  mark,  there  is  a  fieep  hill  along  the  fliore,  almoft  per« 
pcndicular,  and  nearly  aoo  feet  m  height.    From  the  fummk 
9f  thb  bill  there  is  s  gradual  defcent  for  about  a  mile,  till  the 
Vo^  XI«  3  F  ground 


4^0  Siatjfiical  Account 

ground  be  but  a  little  higher  than  the  level  of  the  fea  ^  after 
'which  there  is  a  gradual  afcent,  with  a  few  variations,  ta  the 
upper  part  of  the  parifli.  As  the  pari(h  lies  verjr  flat«  there 
Are  few  fpriogs  of  loft  water ;  and,  in  drj  fummers,  manj* 
have  coniiderable  difficulty,  and  muft  go  to  a  great  diftance  to 
procure  water  for  themfelves  and  their  cattle.  There  are  a  few 
fireams  of  foft  water  in  the  parifli,  ariiing  from  moffes ;  but 
they  contain  very  little  water  in  fummer.  The  mod  confi- 
dcrable  of  thefe  dreams,  or  bums,  divides  the  pariih  of  Cri- 
mond  from  Loanmay,  and  falls  into  the  Loch  of  Strathbeg  ; 
but  its  whole  courfe,  with  all  its  turnings,  will  not  exceed  4 
miles.  Yet,  though  there  is  rather  a  fcarcity  of  foft  water, 
there  are  many  mineral  fprings  ;  moft  of  them  are  fuppofed 
to  be  much  impregnated  with  iron.  None  of  them,  however, 
have  been  much  ufed  for  aay  naedicinal  purpofe. 

Heritors  and  Rent, — ^The  parifli  is  divided  among  4  heri- 
tors: Mr.  Irvine  of  Drum,  proprietor  of  the  lands  of  Crimond 
and  MiHhiU;  Mr.  Harvey  of  Broadland,  proprietor  of  the  lands 
of  Rattray  and  Broadland ;  Mrl  Duff  of  Fetereffo,  proprie- 
tor of  Logie;  and  Mr.  Annand  of  Haddo,  proprietor  of  Had- 
do  ;  beiides  2,  who  pofTefs  only  a  few  acres  each.  Of  thefe, 
Mr.  Harvey  of  Broadland  generally  refides.  The  valued  rent 
of  the  parifli  is  2172U  13$.  4d.  Scotch ;  the  real  rent  is  above 
13001.  Sterling.  The  value  of  the  land  here  has  rifen  verj 
eooiiderably  during  the  lad  50  or  60  years. 

Manu/aBures  and  Commerce. — ^From  the  fcarcity  of  water  in 
the  parifli,  there  can  be  no  manufadtures  edabliihed  here.  The 
women,  however,  are  employed  partly  in  fpinning  flax,  for 
the  manufa&urers  of  Aberdeen  and  Peterhead ;  partly  in 
ginning  tow,  which  is  manufadured  into  a  coarfe  kind  of 
travrQW  dotby  called  bam,  which  labouring  people  ufe  for 

ftdris. 


of  Crimond.  41 1 

Hurts,  and  which  fells,  unbleached,  at  about  6d*  or  ^d.  per 
yard ;  or  into  a  flill  coarfer  kind,  which  is  made  into  bags 
for  carrying  grain,  and  which,  being  much  clofer  woven, 
fells  at  about  8d.  or  xod.  per  jatd.  A  confiderable  quantitj 
of  this  cloth  is  fold  yearly  at  different  fairs  in  this  neighbour- 
hood ;  and  a  ftill  greater  proportion  of  linen  yarn  is  fpun, 
and  Cent  by  land  carriage,  chiefly  to  Aberdeen,  a  diflance  of 
55  miles*  The  women  will  gain,  byfptnning,  from  4d*  to  6d. 
a  day.  ^ 

Fijb^  Kelp^  Scc«*~The  coaft  abounds  in  fi(h,  particularly  cod, 
which  are  of  an  excellent  kind  (Rattray  cod  being  very  famous); 
but  for  want  of  a  proper  landing  place,  they  are  not  caught 
in  very  great  quantities  here.  There  is  no  fifhing  town  in  the 
parifli ;  hot  fome  of  the  crofters  and  artificers,  on  the  eftates  of 
Broadland  and  Haddo,  fifh'  in  good  weather,  when  they  are  not 
otherwife  employed.  Mr.  Harvey  of  Broadland  propofes  to 
make  a  proper  landing  place,  but  has  not  yet  begun  to  put 
his  plan  in  execution.  Sea  weed,  or  ware,  is  ufed  as  a  ma« 
Dure ;  and  a  fmall  quantity  of  kelp  is  manufactured  here. 
Rattray  Head^  in  this  pari(b,  is  a  very  dangerous  roek.  It 
is  very  low,  and  firetches  a  good  way  into  the  fea.  A  great 
number  of  veflels  have  been  ihipwrecked  there.  In  thefe 
cafes,  the  condud  of  10  omany  of  the  lower  ranks,  in  this  and 
the  ndghbeuring  pax ifhes,  efpectally  of  thofe  who  are  molt 
adjacent  to  Rattray  Head,  can  by  no  means  be  juftified  ;  for 
they  pilfer  and  carry  off  from  the  wreck  whatever  they  cab 
lay  hold  on,  fometimes  in  a  very  barefaced  manner.  The 
rre^on  of  a  light*houfe  at  Kinnaird*s  Head,  about  7  miles 
W.  from  Rattray  Head,  will  probably  render  thefe  wrecks 
ieCi  frequent  at  the  latter.  The  lad  fliip  wrecked  tliere  was 
ihe  Delight  of  Burlington,  a  large  veffel,  laden  with  iron» 
wood  and  tallow,  in  November  or  December  1790. 

r 

2  F  a  dimaU 


412  Statiftkal  Account 

Climate  and  5bi/.— The  climato  ii  healthy,  tol  teems  not 
fo  liable  to  infedioas  diforderai  as  other  pariflies  in  the  nei^s* 
bourhood.  The  putrid  fere  throat  raged  with  great  Tioieaoe 
d  or  5  jears  ago,  in  moft  fariflies  in  the  neighbonrhood,  nod 
carried  off  great  numbers  i  bat  though  a  fSew  werefeitied  with  it 
in  Grimood,  none  died  oi  that  diforder.  Confnmptive  difbidcra 
are  moft  frequent  here.  At  prelent  an  infeftions  fever  prew 
vails,  which  has  proved  fatal  to  feveraL  In  fpring  179a,  ao 
people,  from  i  to  16  years  of  age,^were  inoculated  for  the 
fim^ll  pol.  One  of  them  did  not  catch  theinfcftion;  die 
other  19  had  them  in  the  moft  favourable  manner*  But  noe^ 
ivithftanding  this  fucceb,  the  example  is  not  Ukelj  to  be 
followed. 

The  land  next  the  ihore  is  a  verj  light  body  fail,  ^ 
produces,  in  general,  weighty  crops  of  bear,  peafe  and  I 
It  is  eafily  cultivated,  and  would  produce  exceUeot  crops  of 
early  grafs  ;  but  this  hufbandrj  has  been  feldom  attempted  in 
that  part  of  the  pari(h.  In  the  N.  W.  part  of  the  pariflit  fer 
a  or  3  miles  from  the  fea,  is  a  light  loam,  earlier  than  omA 
other  parts  i  and  fome  of  it  produces  weighty  crops.  FlUt  is 
on  a  claj  bottom ;  much  of  it  is  a  cold  damp  late  foil,  paitictt- 
larly  near  the  mofles  ;  and  as  a  great  part  of  the  parifli  sp. 
pears  once  to  have  been  covered  with  mob,  this  foil  is  to  b0 
found  in  many  places.  The  only  grain  produced  here  is  ones, 
bear,  peaTe  and  beans  i  the  two  laft  in  not  very  great  gnnn* 
tities* 

AgricuUun  and  Preducf ^-^It  is  but  latdy  that  any  coflfi. 
derable  improvements  in  agriculture  were  made  here.  It  is 
indeed  nearly  60  years  finoe  Mr.  Irvine  of  Crimood  began  to 
nfe  lime.  But  fb  little  was  the  nature  of  that  msBore  known 
at  that  time,  that  he  took  7»  8,  and  even  xi  fuoceffive  ctnpa 

aftev 


if  Crhmnd.  413 

sftcar  KnSsg*  SMie  fields  hsre  not  yet  recovered  tbe  bad  ef* 
fcAs  of  this  OTer^croppiag.  When  the  tenants,  about  30  of 
40  years  ago,  began  to  ufe  lime,  the  landlords,  in  order  td 
prevent  overcropping,  caufed  tnfert  a  clanfe  in  the  leafes they 
granted,  prohibitiog  tenants  from  taking  more  than  4  cropa 
after  folding  with  (heep  or  cattle,  and  5  after  limingi  widioat 
the  intervention  of  a  green  crop ;  but  if  the  5th  crop  aftet 
liming  was  peafe,  they  could,  by  their  leafe,  make  the  6th 
bear,  and  then  a  7th  and  9th  oats.  It  is  eafy  to  fee,  that  fudk 
a  mode  of  nfiag  ground,  muft  have  greatly  retarded  improve 
ment.  Liming  is  not  much  ufed  at  prefent  here,  as  moft  of 
the  ground,  for  which  it  is  proper,  has  already  been  limed^ 
and  got  fuch  a  large  dofe,  that  a  fecond  liming  is  rather  hurU 
ful  than  beneficial.  What  lime  is  now  ufed,  is  commonly  har« 
xowed  in  with  bear,  and  clover  and  rye-grafs  feedi,  after  tur* 
sups  and  potatoes,  in  old  infield  ground.  Shell  marl  is  begin* 
tiiDg  to  be  ufed  as  a  manure,  and  feems  to  anfwer  well. 

It  is  not  much  above  ao  years  fince  potatoes,  turnips,  ot 
nrtificial  graflcs,  were  to  be  feen  in  the  fields  in  any  quantity. 
But  peopk  now  begin  to  perceive  the  advantages  of  thofe  im- 
pcovements.  Potatoes  are  planted  in  quantities  fuflkient  to 
fopply  the  confumption  of  the  pariih,  which  is  Confiderabk. 
A  few  were  fold  laft  year  for  exportation  ;  but  the  expeoce 
•f  land  carriage  will  probably  prevent  any  attempts  to  raife 
them  for  exportation.  Many  have  large  fields  of  turnipa. 
Summer  fallow  is  fometimes  ufed ;  and  the  potatoe,  turnip, 
end  fallow  fields  are  generally  fowa  down  with  rye^grafs,  and 
xed  aad  while  clover  feeds;  and  fometimes  grafs  feeds  are 
ibwa  in  ground  not  fo  well  prepared.  But  a  great  deal  ro. 
Maina  to  be  done  %  and  it  will  be  a  long  time  before  the  dif^ 
trsft  ean  erctve  at  the  degree  of  cultivation  it  is  oapable  of* 
These  is  no  regular  rotation  of  crops  carried  on  here,  unlefii 
IgroM  OT  two  tenants.  A  very  good  rotatioui  which  has  been 

%    ufed. 


414  Statiftical  Accouni 

jifedi  is,  xft,  Cumipsy  potatoesi  peafe,  or  fallow;  id,  in  tfighe 
foil,  oats }  and,  in  a  ftrong,  barley,  each  with  artificial  graces  j 
Bd,  haj ;  4th,  5th,  6th,  aod  7th,  paftare ;  8th,  oats :  9di, 
^Ibmctimes  oats,  which  finiflies  the  rotation  ;  fometimes  bear  i 
gnd,  in  that  cafe,  loth  oats. 

Nearly  the  half  of  the  arable  groand  in  he  parifli  is  in  na« 
tural  or  artificial  grafles.  About  a  5th  part  of  the  remainder 
is  in  potatoes,  lumips,  peafe,  or  other  green  crop.  Everj 
lenant,  for  the  mod  part,  has  a  greater  or  lefier  qnantitj  of 
flax,  chiefly  for  family  ufe.  What  remains,  t  S  in  oats  and  bar- 
ley. The  turnips  are  ufed,  partly  in  feeding  cattle  for  die 
butcher,  bat  chiefly  in  rearing  young  cattle.  The  parifli  will 
produce  nearly,  on  an  average,  6000  bolls  of  grain  annually ; 
of  which  from  1000  to  2000  are  exported  ;  the  remainder  is 
needed  for  feed,  and  the  fupply  of  the  inhabitants.  The  va- 
lue of  cattle  fold  yearly,  including  a  few  flieep,  amonnta  to 
more  than  the  grain  exported.  Very  fine  cattle  are  reared 
and  fed  here.  The  number  of  black  cattle  is  rather  above 
800.  There  are  but  few  iheep.  About  20  years  ago,  horfes 
ufed  to  be  brought  from  other  places,  to  fupply  the  farmers  in 
this  and  the  neighbouring  pariflies ;  but  now  good  horfes  are 
reared  and  exported.  The  number  of  horfes  in  the  diftrift  is 
exa&ly  205.     Some  farmers  alfo  difpofe  of  a  little  hay. 

Some  time  ago,  in  this  diftrid,  the  plough  was  drawn  by 
6  horfes,  or  10  or  Z2  oxen  ;  now  4  horfes,  or  4  oxen,  and 
fometimes  2  horfes,  are  ufed.  The  Scotch  plough  is  general* 
ly  employed.  There  is  icarcely  any  of  the  pariih  indofed, 
which  is  partly  compenfated  by  the  praftice  of  winter  herding. 
About  T  6  or  20  years  ago,  many  of  the  tenants  began  to  in- 
,  clofe  with  earthen  fences  ;  and  perhaps  a  third  part  of  the  pa* 
.rifli  was*  inclofed  in  that  manner.  But  as  thefe  fences  fooa 
.mouldered  away,  and  becao^e  infufficient,  a  flop  was  put  to 
that  manner  of  inclofing,  and  the  earthen  fences  were  gcn^ 


of  CritnonJ.  4f^ 

raUy  thrown  down.  In  fome  parts  of  the  difirifti  ilones  aroi 
BOC  to  be  got  in  fufficient  quantities  for  inclofing  ;  and,  even 
where  thej  can  be  got,  a  tenant  can  hardly  be  ezpeAed  to  in»<' 
clofe  on  a  Icafe  of  19  years,  the  longeft  generally  granted 
here*   • 

The  Ihortnels  of  Feafes  ufually  given,  feeme  to  prefent  an 
infaperable  bar  to  perfedion  in  agriculture.  From  the  da* 
creafing  value  of  money,  the  landlord  imagines  he  muft  be 
a  lofer  by  granting  a  long  leafe.  But  might  not  a  leafe  be 
granted  for  3,  4,  or  5  nineteen  years,  without  any  material  in- 
jury to  tlie  landlord,  arifing  from  the  progrefCve  decreafe  of  the 
value  of  money  ?  For  inftance,  might  not  the  rent  of  a  farm  be 
regulated  by  the  price  of  oatmeal,  or  of  any  kind  of  grain  ^ 
Suppofe  a  farm  to  be  let  for  lol.,  and  the  price  of  oatmea^ 
at  the  beginning  of  the  leafe,  to  be  zos.  per  boll,  then  the 
rent,  or  aoL,  would  be  equivalent  to  40  bolls  of  oatmeal. 
Suppofe,  at  the  end  of  the  firft  19  years,  the  price  of  oatmeal, 
on  an  average  of  7  years,  to  be  12s.  per  boU,  then  let  the 
rent  for  the  fiscnnd  29  years  be  the  price  of  40  bolls  of  meal, 
at  128.  per  .boll,  or  241.  Suppofe,  at  the  end  of  the  fecond 
19  years,  oatmeal  to  be  z  4s  per  boll,  then  let  the  rent,  for  the 
third  19  years,  be  the  price  of  40  bolls  of  meal,  at  145.  per 
boll,  or  28L  The  ri^g  rent  might  in  the  iame  manner  be 
regulated  by  the  price  of  cattle  or  iheep  of  a  certain  weight, 
or  of  beef  or  wool,  or  other  produftions  of  the  farm.  A 
moderate  advance  might  likewife  be  made  for  the  capability 
of  improvement.  A  long  leafe  might  furely  be  granted,  upon 
this  or  a  fimilar  plan,  without  materially  injuring  the  land- 
lord ;  while  the  tenant  would  be  encouraged  to  attempt  fub- 
ftantial  improvements,  as  he  would  have  a  certain  profpeft  of 
reaping  the  fruits  of  his  induftry. 

Pofulatian^ 


41 6  Stati/lkal  Acc(m$a 


P0ft$laiioH.'^AteoTding  to  Dr.  Webftec^f  nport,  dieattou 
Wr  of  fi>al8,  in  1755,  was  765*. 

Population  in  Februaiy  1791. 

311  Memben  of  tlie  BftaKliflirJ  Onvcfta 

•         •        Z17  childitii  included,           -          66» 

•            390  8cot^  EpUcopaliuu^          -         944 

9f  Antibuflier  Secedcn,          •          t 

^-^  Roman  Catholki,         •          •        3 

Total  f,        "        91;^  NumWr  of  £unUiet»       -        -    %%t 

'  •  About  the  time  that  the  return  wai  made  to  Dr.  Webfter»  and  for  fbnie  time 
^ibUt  the  population  wai  (kid  to  be  on  the  increafe,  owing  chiefly  to  the  4hid* 
ii^  of  IsTge  farms  into  fmaller  onei.  Bat  Cnce  the  year  X770»  the  popnlatiQa 
Asopt  to  have  been  upon  the  deoeafe.  lo  1771,  it  appear^  from  the  lift  kept 
hf  the  overlecr  of  the  roadi,  that  there  were  A31  men  in  the  pariih,  from  z6  to 
40t  fiabk  to  work  00  the  highways.  Thefe  have  gradually  dccreafed  finoe.  In 
17I1,  there  were  but  aoo  i  and  left  year  only  171. 

f  In  February  X793,  there  was  a  dccreafe  of  15,  owing  to  die  removal  of 
%  funilies  and  i  or  6  artisans  out  of  the  parilh. — It  is  impoffibk  to  gire  nf 
fccovlit  of  thf  btnht,  deaths,  and  marriages.  Scarcdy  auy  of  the  < 
fort  their  childrens  births  in  the  regifter ;  and  even  fome  of  the  ] 
Church  are  equally  nrgUgent.  Before  X7S3,  no  regifter  of  burials  and  1 
•gea  was  kept,  and  fcarcely  the  half  have  been  regillered  fince  that  period 
The  decreafe  of  the  population  may,  among  other  cauies,  contribute  to  the  b^ 
yriioc  of  labour,  wd  to  what  is  of  worfe  confequeuce,  the  difficulty  of  procaa^g 
Ubourers.  At  the  time  that  the  large  farms  were  divided  into  finaUcr  on^  the 
fubtcnants  and  cottagers  rented  partly  the  finaller  farms,  and  partly  crofts^  frooi 
the  heritor,  which  were  generally  too  Isrge.  When  the  pofleflbrs  of  thefe  fmsll 
Ibrms  and  crofts  were  found  not  to  be  the  heft  improvers  of  the  ground,  the 
landlords  began  to  put  two  or  more  of  the  fmall  farms  into  one,  fo  that  bow 
there  are  fcarcely  any  fubtenauts,  and  few  crofts  let  by  the  heritors.  As  these 
are  no  villages  ia  the  pariih,  and  no  cottages  to  be  let,  but  (uch  as  have  a  piece 
of  ground  annexed  to  them,  young  people,  for  want  of  a  fettlcment,  remove  to  the 
mamifa^uring  towns  of  Peterhead  and  Aberdeen ;  Co  that  day-hbonrers  and 
handicraft  people  are  procured  with  the  greattfl  difficulty.  It  would  probably  be 
of  fKtt  lAvatuge  both  to  thaniclves  aad  the  publici  if  the  boiton  vronld  allot 


I 


of  Crimond.  417 

Church  *,  School^  Poor^  \3c. — ^The  ftxpend  is  t  chalder  of 
bear,  a. chalder  of  meal,  7«o  merks  Stotch'  in  money,  with 
50  merks  for  communion  elements,  and  a  glebe  of  about  5 
acres  of  very  good  grouad.  The  Earl  of  Enrol  is  the  preCeot 
patron.  The  church  was  built  in  1576  ;  at  lead  this  date  is 
above  one  of  the  doors.  It  is  probable,  however,  that  it  had 
only  been  repaired  that  year,  as  there  is  iiill  a  font  ftone  in 
the  £•  end.  The  manf<9  was  built  in  1763,  and  new  offices 
about  4  or  5  years  ago.^-A  new  fchool«houfe,  with  rooms  for 
the  mailer,  was  built  in  1791*  The  fohoolmafter's  falary  is 
zoo  merks  Scotch,  and,  including  all  perquifites  and  (chool  fees, 
will  not  amount  to  a^bove  iil.  or  lah  a  year. — ^The  poor  are 
fupported  by  the  weekly  coUedions,  and  the  intereft  of  X30L 
Sterling.  Of  this,  zoo  merks  Scotch  were  mortified  by  a  pro- 
prietor of  Logic,  about  the  beginning  of  the  century,  and  p 
merks  by  Mr.  Leflie,  late  minifler  of  Crimond,  about  the 
year  1740.  Thefe  two  fuma,  by  being  lent  out  at  interefi, 
amounted,  in  1748,  to  700  merks  Scotch ;  and,  in  Z782,  with 
fome  fmall  favings,  to  1 70I.  Sterling :  A  pradical  proof  of 
the  accun^ulation  of  money  by  compound  intereft  f  • 

Vol.  XL  3  G  Roads. 

a  fnoll  part  of  their  eftate  (near  a  mofs  if  pofTible)  to  he  lee  in  fmall  crofts  of  % 
or  3  acres  to  day-Ubouxert  and  artificers,  and  to  grant  them  leafes.  By  tbefc 
aieans  many  would  fettle  in  the  country,  the  bell  nurfery  of  the  human  fpecics, 
and  it  would  always  be  eafy  to  procure  labourers  and  artificers,  which  is  fre- 
quently not  the  cafe  at  prefent.  This  difficulty  of  procuring  day-labourers,  lu- 
bcfuriog  fenrants,  &c.  prerents  many  iniproTenients  from  being  aucmpted.  (t 
would  alio  be  of  coofequence,  that  fuch  «rofts  were  yery  fmall,  becaufe  if  they 
were  large,  they  would  either  take  up  too  mj^cb  of  the  poIfciTor's  timci  or  the 
neceitiry  attention  would  not  be  paid  to  them. 

*  Mr.  WILLIAM  Law,  probably  the  firft  Prcfbyteri;in  minifter  at  Crimond 
after  the  Revolution,  was  depofcd,  foon  after  the  beginning  of  the  century,  by 
the  Synod  of  Aberdeen,  for  what  they  were  pleafcd  to  call  herefy^  he  having  af- 
ferted  in  a  Synod  fcrmon,  *'  7^.^  I'irtue  was  more  natwral  to  the  human  mind 
•*  than  Tice.** 

t  Since  th^t  period  the  capital  has  de^reafed.    The  poor  are  literally  fupport- 
ed 


41 8  Statifiical  Accmnt 

Roads.'^The  toids  in  this  diftria  ftte  s^pftlrtd  hj  die  lis. 
tote  labotEir,  whichi  if  properlj  peifonned,  wouM  have  ktpc 
them  in  repair :  But  the  worit  wes  alwejs  tbo  fspeificially 
performed,  becaufe  too  much  was  attempted  iu  one  year. 
And»  aa  the  roada  ftood  aa  much  ia  need  of  repair  as  ever, 
in  a  few  years  they  became  very  bad.  This  readtrad  pM^ 
averfe  and  aokward  in  peiforming  the  (latute  labour.  Be» 
fides,  about  lo,  |2|  or  ao  years  ago,  the  then  refidiog  heri* 
tors  trequently  repaired  their  private  roads  by  means  of  the 
ftatute  labour  |  and  overfeers  were  often  partial  or  negli- 
gent. More  attention,  however,  has  been  paid  to  the  public 
roads  for  fome  years  pafl,  and  they  are  now  confiderably  im- 
proved. 

Laie^  Hiii,  &c.--The  Loch  of  Strathbeg  is  partly  in  the  pe* 
ri(h  of  Grimond,  partly  in  that  of  Loanmay.  It  contains  about 
550  acres,  and  is  above  a  mile  in  length  from  £.  to  W.;  the 
breadth  is  unequal,  The  £•  end,  which  is  in  Crimond,  if 
nearly  half  a  mile  from  the  fea,  the  W.  end  fomewhat  far* 
th^r  *•     At  the  E«  end  of  the  Loch  of  Strathbc^t  in  a  rery 

pleaiant 

ed  by  the  poor.  The  heritors  either  do  QOt  refide»  pr  do  fiot  attcad  fohi^ 
worfiiip.  A  great  many  are  diflenters,  ^ho  centribttte  little  or  noduflf  to  chp 
ftipport  of  the  poor.  For  zo  or  la  yeai»  paft,  Mr.  IrYJoe  of  Dmm  has  cuiird 
5  or  6  bolls  of  oat-meal,  and  fometimcs  more,  yearly,  and,  at  diflerent  liaicf 
money,  to  be  diftributed  amorg  the  poor  of  his  cfiace :  Ancpoiple  which  de- 
fenres  to  be  followed  by  all  non-rciidipg  heriton,  and  thoie  who  do  not  acuad 
public  worihip. 

*  At  the  beginning  of  the  prefent  century,  this  lake  was  of  much  fmaller  ex- 
tent  than  it  is  now.  It  was  confined  to  a  fmail  part  of  the  £.  end,  and  had  a 
communication  with  the  Tea,  fo  that  vefleis  of  fmall  burthen  could  enter  it. 
FcDple  bom  about  the  beginning  of  the  century  well  remembered  the  firfi  otcx- 
flowing  of  the  W.  part  of  the  Loch,  though  the  particular  year  is  not  now 
known,  but  it  muft  have  been  about  1720.    Previous  to  that  time  there  was  a 

hiU 


tf  Crtmondi  419 

pbaikiit  fituiuion,  thete  it  a  (kaali  hill,  of  a  ctrcnlar  form, 
whofe  top  is  ezaftlj  half  a  Scotch  acre  in  ttxxoX^  called  tb$ 
Cq/Ut^HUl.  It  rifes  38  feet  d)ove  a  fmall  plain  on  the  N.  £• 
bot  is  00I7  I  a  or  14  feet  above  the  higher  ground  00  the  oppo'« 
fite  fide.  The  famous  Gomouae  Earl  of  Bucban,  had  a  feat 
here  %  hot  after  his  defeat  at  the  battle  of  Inverury*  bj  King 
ilobctt  Brace,  this  caftle  fell  into  ruins.  B7  the  blowing  of 
the  light  Caady  ground  in  the  neighbourhood,  which  verj 
frequently  happens,  it  is  now  covered  with  a  deep  foil,  and 
produces  crops  of  grain  and  grais^  Such  is  the  ioftabilitj  of 
human  affidrs  *•  About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  S;  of  the  Caftle* 
hiU,  the  wutfs  o^  a  chapel,  furtonnded  by  a  burial  place,  are 
*ioftly  entire  f.  Around  this  chapei  formerly  flood -the 
burgh  of  Rattray.  It  is  faid  to  have  had  the  fame  privileges 
as  a  royal  burgh,  except  fending  members  to  parliament. 
The  burgage  lands  are  of  confiderable  extent  |.    This  diftri£t 

g  O  a  is 


*%U1  of  find,  between  the  hill  above  mentioned  tnd  the  fea,  and  ftill  higher  than 
it.  A  furious  K.  wind  blew  awa/  this  kill  of  iand  in  one  night,  which  Aopped 
the  cofsmuoication  between  the  loch  and  the  fea  bx  forming  a  find  bar.  The 
low  Ijing  ground  to  the  W.  was  foon  overflowed,  and  the  extent  of  the  loch  raudi 
Ulcreafed.  An  attempt  has  been  made  to  drain  this  loch  :  the  operations  for 
dratniog  it  were  begun  in  1797,  and  are  ftill  continued,  though  hitherto  nnfuc- 
ce(sftiL    The  proper  method  of  draining  it  does  not  appear  to  be  jet  difcovered. 

*  About  tfo  7C«n  ago,  Mr.  Arbnthoot,  then  of  Broadland,  canfed  dig  up  an 
tfllinenee  at  titt  S.  K.  fide  of  the  Oaftle^iiU,  where  he  found  a  great  number  of 
Ibooes,  foppofed  10  belaaglo  the  kitchen  of  the  caftle,  ai  ike  workmen  found 
^nvf  Uxgt  kcsarfk-ftoDes  covofed  with  alke^ 

f  It  is  fuppofed  to  have  been  a  private  chapel  for  the  ufe  d  the  farri 
family.  The  length  is  45  feet  within  the  walli,  the  breadth  it  feet,  the  thickneCi 
•f  the  walls  %  feet,  and  the  height  of  the  end  walls,  ftill  above  ground,  1%  feet« 
In  the  £.  end  of  the  chapel  are  3  arched  windows ;  the  largeft,  which  is  in  the 
middle,  is  il  feet  high  and  a  feet  wide.  The  other  %  ^e  each  7  iSeet  high«  and 
a  wide.    The  walk  are  built  of  very  Onall  ftones  firmly  cemented  with  lime. 

% Tfaen  sre asw only  s  leua^orntktr  a  lea  divided in»o t.   The  oUift eksr- 

tct 


420  Statifiical  Account 

is  called,  in  an  old  charter,  the  Great  Pari  of  Crhnoiid* 
There  are,  however,  verj  few  trees  in  it  at  prefeot  ^  bat  it 
appears,  from  the  mofles,  that  there  have  been  large  planta- 
tions formerly.  Many  oaks,  ftili  fre(h,  have  been  found  in 
the  mofi«s  ;  but  foaroely  any  other  kind  of  wood.  In  thefe 
places,  when  the  mofs  is  exhaufted,  or  nearly  fo,  coots  of 
very  large  oaks  are  to  be  feen,  as  clofe  together  as  trees  of 
their  Cze  could  well  be  fuppofed  to  grow  in  a  plantation.  In 
fbe  upperoxoft  part  of  Crimond,  the  adjacent  parts  of  Loan- 
may,  and  a  part  of  Longfide»  which  was  disjoined  from  Cri- 
xnond  in  the  laft  century,  there  are  feveral  very  extenfive 
xnofTes  contiguous  to  each  other,  which,  if  we  may  judge 
from  thofe  already  exhaufted,  have  been  once  covered  with 
wood*. 

AU  Houfes. — ^There  is  only  one  licenced  public  houfe  in 
the  pariih ;  but  there  are  feveral  perfons,  who,  by  getting 

market 


ter  upon  this  feu,  extant,  was  granted  in  16*7.  In  that  year*  in  a  burgh-court 
holden  at  Rattray,  by  the  Honourable  Jghn  Hay  of  Crimondmogate,  Williaxn 
Dalgardno  of  filackwater,  and  David  Rivis  of  Strathftedlie,  bailies  of  the  bargh 
of  Rattray,  a  jury  of  13  honed  men,  citizens  of  the  faid  burgh,  find,  tbat 
Magnus  Smith,  the  father  of  William  Smith,  died  poflefled  of  4  roods  of  land 
in  the  faid  burgh.  Upon  this,  David  Rivis,  one  of  the  faid  bailies,  fuperior  of 
the  lands  of  Rattray,  grants  a  charter  on  the  £aid  4  roods  in  favour  of  William 
Smtth.-^The  next  charter  is  granted  in  1675  by  William  Watibn  of  Haddo, 
bailie  of  the  burgh  of  Rattray,  fuperior  of  the  fatd  Uuids»  in  fiivoor  of  Ifobcd 
Watfon,  fpoufe  of  Alexander  Bil&t  in  Bilboe.— -xThe  lateft  charter  is  granted 
in  17x1,  by  Charles  fiarlof  Errol,  fuperior  of  the  lands  of  Rattray,  in  favour 
•f  the  daughters  of  the  faid  Alexander  BifTet  and  Ifobel  Watfon. 

*  In  Fordoun*s  Chronicle,  after  mentioning  the  defeat  of  Cummine  at  Invr- 
rury,  rt  is  narrated,  **  That  Bruce  purfued  him  to  Turriff,  and  afterwards  de- 
**  ftroyed  by  fire  his  witole  earldom  of  Buchan.**  The  large  plantations  of  trees 
were  no  dtfubt  deftroyed  with  the  reft  of  the  earldom ;  and  this  is  the  more 
probable,  as  maHu  of  fire  have  been  perceived  on  trees  deep  burie4  in  the  mofs. 


of  Crimond.  .  421. 

tnarittfets  from  the  excife  officers,  contrive  to  retail  ale  and 
fpiritoas  liquors  during  a  great  part  of  the  year ;  and  as  thej 
pay  no  licence,  and  hardly  any  duty  on  ale,  and  have  little 
convenience,  they  can  afford  to  fell  below  the  ordinary  price 
in  a  decent  houfe.  Hence  thefe  private  ale  houfes  are  too 
mach  fireqnented,  and  their  efFefis  may  foon  ^become  pernici- 
oos.  Dmnkennefs,  however,  is  not  a  prevailing  vice  here. 
The  fevere  feafon  of  1782  was  attended  with  many  bad  con- 
fequences ;  but  it  had  one  beneficial  eSefl:  in  this  neighbour- ' 
hood,  that  of  almoft  putting  a  (top  to  this  vice. 


NUM- 


42  2  Stati/lual  Account 


NUMBER     XXXIII. 


PARISH    OF   LOCHALSH. 


(CSMMtff  of  Koft^^'BriJbyttry  of  Locbcarron^Synmi  of 


By  thi  Rev.  Mr.  Alexakder  DowkiEi  Minifler* 


Namet  Situation^  and  Extent. 

THE  general  name  of  this  parifli,  like  thofe  of  mod  of 
the  £iinDs  of  which  it  confillsi  feems  to  be  Danifh.  It 
18  fitnated  on  the  N.  W.  coaft  of  Scotland*  The  figure  of 
the  inhabited  part  approaches  neareft  to  a  quadrangular  pen- 
infula,  being  inclofed  by  the  fea  6tl  3  of  the  fides.  The 
Kyle,  or  narrow  fea,  which  feparates  the  adjacent  ifland  of 
Sky  from  the  main  land  of  Scotland,  is  its  weftern  boundary; 
the  bays  of  Lochduich  and  Lochlong  eocompafs  it  on  the  S.$ 
and  that  range  of  high  hills^  which  divides  the  eafl  from  the 
weft  coaft  of  Scotland,  bound  it  on  the  eaft.  The  inhabited 
part  ]j  computed  to  be  10  miles  long,  and  5  broad. 

3  Surfaci^ 


of  iMcbalJb^  4S^ 

Surfacif  Soil,  and  Cttmate^  (^r..^The  general  sppeanuio6 
of  the  country,  like  that  of  all  Highland  pariihes,  is  nioun* 
tanious.  The  hills  are  neither  rocky,  nor  cOTcred  with 
heath,  as  in  the  neighbouring  countries  to  the  N*  Oa  the- 
declivity  of  the  fmaller  hills,  and  in  the  intermediate  hollows, 
the  foil  is  rich,  and  commonly  of  the  fame  quality  with  the 
ground  which  covers  lime-ftone  rocks.  On  the  top  they  are 
covered  with  thin  mofs.  The  whole  produces  excellent  pa- 
fture,  reckoned  fuperior  in  quality  to  any  in  the  neighbour- 
ing countries.  The  climate,  as  may  be  expeHed,  from  the 
attradion  of  the  clouds  by  the  high  hills  in  the  pariQi,  and 
the  ftill  higher  hills  of  Kintail  and  Sky,  is  exceedingly  moid 
and  rainy.  The  inhabitants,  however,  ^re  healthy,  and  many 
lire  to  a  confiderable  age.  Nervous  fevers  are  the  principal 
epidemical  dillempers  to  which  they  are  fubjeft. 

ProArrr .— The  produce  of  the  country  is  oats,  barley,  po« 
aatoes  and  peafe.  But  the  attention  of  the  farmer  being 
ptineipally  occupied  in  rearing  cattle,  the  railing  of  com  be- 
cotties  a  (ecottdary  confideration.  The  inequality  of  the  fnr- 
fiice  renders  cultivation  difficult,  and  the  wetnefs  of  the  climate 
makes  the  return  precarious.  In  the  beft  feafons  it  doea  not 
pfoduee  com  fnfficient  for  the  inhabitants.  They  annually 
import  oat-meal  from  Ireland,  the  Frith  of  Clyde,  or  Caitb* 
nefs,  at  from  x  js.  to  14s.  per  boll,  of  8  ftone  Dutch  weight. 
The  quantity  varies,  according  to  the  goodnefs  of  the  harveft, 
or  the  feverity  of  the  fpring.  In  a  bad  fpring,  the  cattle  oftea 
confume  their  com  after  the  provender  has  been  exhauftcd. 

Cattle, — ^The  number  of  cattle  in  the  parifli;  accordbg  te 
jl  ytry  accurate  Turvey  lately  taken,  is  as  follows : 

Milk 


4^4  Statifiicai  Account 


Milk  <;ows, 

9f4 

Sheep, 

m 

1789 

Cftlvesi 

-        5«7 

Lambs, 

- 

686 

Yottog  cattle. 

-       1554 

Goats, 

■■ 

lOMX 

Horfes, 

275 

The  (heep  and  goats  are  kept  folelj  for  familj  ufe.  By 
the  produce  of  the  black  cattle,  the  farmer  lives  and  pays  his 
rent  to  the  landlord.  About  400  are  annually  fold  to  drovers 
from  the  fouth  of  Scotland,  who  come  to  purchafe  them,  from 
April  to  November.  The  average  price  will  be  about  three 
guineas^ 

Commerce  and  Cultivation. — ^A  confiderable  quantity  of  bat- 
tler and  cheefe  is  annually  exported.  The  butter  is  e&eemed 
of  the  beft  quality  and  higheft  flavour.  Formerly,  the  farmer 
trufted  for  winter  provender  folely  to  paflure  grafs,  on  which 
Qoxrattle  were  paft^ired  from  the  lath  of  Auguft  to  the  zath  of 
November.  ,  Having  little  ilraw,  and  so  hay,  many,  cattle^ 
i.n  fevere  winters,  periflicd  for  want.  They  now  begin  to  in. 
clofe  their  ground,  and  grow  natural  and  artificial  hay,  bj 
which  means  this  lofs  is  in  a  great  meafure  obviated*  Bj 
railing  more  hay,  and  keeping  a  lighter  flock,  cattle  of  greater 
value,  fecure  from  bad  feafons,  might  he  reared.  A  very  ex« 
teniive  bank  of  coral  and  ihell  fand,  to  which  all  the.  teaanu 
on  the  eftate  have  free  accefs,  will  greatly  contribute  to  pro- 
mote agriculture  amongft  them.  Of  late  years  it  has  been 
generally  ufcd ;  and  experience  fo  much  convinces  them  of  its 
utility,  that  it  is  now  carried  in  fmall  bo^ts,  bearing  from  t% 
to  18  barrels,  through  Lochduich,  15  miles,  and  foroetimes  to 
a  confiderable  diftance  afterwards  by  land  carriage.  Thofe 
who  carry  it  by  contraft,  demand  6d.  per  barrel  for  delivering 
it  on  the  (hdre.  By  employing  large  flat»bottomed  boats,  the 
^ice  of  carriage  might  be  much  reduced,  and  the  manure, 

found 


of  Locbal/b^  42^ 

fottod  fo  much  adapted  for  corn  and  grafs,  more  ualverfallj 
Ufed. 


Populatkn^  Manner  0/ Livings  &c»— Within  thcfe  40  years, 
the  population  is  more  than  doubled. 

The  number,  at  prefent,  is,  of  males,  •*  *  640 

— — — — ^—  females,         -  -  .         -        -         6^4 

In  all,         -  -         ..         .         -         1334^ 

In  Dr.  Webfter's  report,  the  number  is  only  *  613 

Increafe,         -         -        -        •        -         ^az 
The  pre&nt  number  of  families  is         -  •         «         179 

As  there  'was  a  confiderable  emigration  from  this  country^ 
to  Korth  America,  in  1770,  and  a  large  drain  of  young  men 
to  recruit  the  army  during  the  late  war*,  it  is  di£5cult  to  af«« 
lign  adequate  caufes  for  this  rapid  increafe  of  population* 
It  cannot  be  accounted  for,  from  any  change  in  the  divifion  of 
firms,  moft  of  which  have  been  bounded  by  the  fame  marches 
for  upwards  of  a  century,  and  ftill  pofiefled  by  what  may  be 
G^ed  the  Ahorigines  of  the  country,  often  defcending,  from, 
father  to  fon,  in  the  fame  family,  to  the  fourth  generation. 
The  cultivation  of  potatoes,  introduced  here  about  45  years 
ugOj  (vihich,  with  various  kinds  of  fi(h,  now  conftitute  the 
greateft  part  of  the  food  of  the  people,)  feems  to  have  princi- 
pally contributed  to  it.  Their  mode  of  farming,  requiring 
little  of  their  attention,  during  the  fummer  and  beginning  of 
harvefi,  they  are  much  employed  in  filhing  of  fythe,  (a  fmall 
fpecies  of  the  cole  filh),  herrings,  and  fometimes  ling,  cod  and 
Vol.  XI.  3  H  ikate. 

*  Since  writtng  the  ftbore,  tlw  proprietor,  who  is  dow  rsifing  t  regtiaeot, 
nlfed  here  upwards  of  40  volunteen  in  a  days. 


4^6  Statiftlcal  Account 

Ikftte.  The  fythe  arc  cat  frefli ;  the  herrings  are  pickle^  tb 
be  eat  with  the  potatoes  daring  the  harveft,  winter,  and 
fpring.  Though  63  boats  be  employed  in  this  manner,  tbere 
are  no  fifli  exported  from  the  parilh.  Communicating  the  fmM^ 
pox  by  inoculation,  now  become  univerfal  over  this  coaft,  and 
pradifed  with  fuccefs,  has  alfo  very  much  contribnted  to  pr&- 
ferve  the  lives  of  the  people  f.  The  emancipation  of  the 
lower  clafles,  too,  from  the  remains  of  feudal  oppreflion,  and 
their  circumfiaiices  greatly  improving,  under  the  fofteriog 
e^re  of  a  liberal  landlord,  enables  them  to  marry  earlier  is 
Hfe,  and  to  provide  with  more  eafe  for  a  rifing  £amily. 

Church,  Poor^  Scboois,  &c.— The  church  was  built  in  1641. 
It  was  repaired  and  Qatcd  in  1766,  and  lately  fumilhed  with 
commodious  feats.  The  living,  including  the  glebe,  is  worth- 
65I.  per  annum.  The  patronage  is  vefted  in  the  Crown*  The 
fole  heritor,  Mr.  M'Kenzie  of  Seaforth,  does  not  rcfide  in 
the  parifli.  All  the  people  come  to  the  Eftablilhcd  Churchy 
excepting  62  Roman  Catholics,  who  attend  a  Popifli  meeting- 

houfe  in  the  neighbouring  parifli  of  KinuU ^The  number  of 

pocr  at  prefcnt  on  the  parilh  roll  is  35-  The  only  fund  for 
their  fupporr,  arifing  from  coUeaions  at  the  church  door,  does 
not  exceed  7I.  per  annum,  which  is  diftributed  by  the  kirk- 
fcffion  according  to  their  neccffitics.  The  parochial  fchool  is 
fituated  near  the  church.  The  faJary  is  aoo  merks  Scotch. 
Laft  year,  the  Society  for  Propagating  Cbriftiau  Knowledge 
reftored  one  of  their  fchools  to  a  detached  diftrift  of  the  pa- 
rilh, with  a  falary  of  i  jl.  Sterling. 

Rent  J  ^ 

f  About  40  year,  .go  i^hen  inoculation  was  not  praAifed  here,  this  Tirul«t 
Aitemper  .Jinng  them  m  the  «anir.l  way.  gave  cufc  to  ««,/«,J,.ppy  p^ 
rents,  to  bewail  the  lofs  of  a  whole  ftmiJy  of  children. 


of  Lochaljb.  427 

JRmHj,  ¥uil^  &c.— The  valued  rent  of  the  parifli  is  not  ex* 
jidlj  known.  The  real  rent  is  nearlj  800I.  Sterling,  befides 
what  ariies  from  a  confiderable  quantity  of  kelp  annually  ex- 
ported. This  eftate  has  remained  in  the  fame  family  for  up- 
wards of  4  centuries. — The  only  fuel  ufed  is  peats,  which,  in 
wet  feafons,  in  this  rainy  climate,  are  expenfive  and  preeari* 
ous.  Neceffity  has  fometimes  obliged  them  to  purchafe  coals^ 
at  the  extravagant  rate  of  19s.  per  ton.  It  is  to  be  hoped 
the  juftice  of  the  Britilh  legiflature  will  not  fufier  a  country, 
where  firing  muft  always  conftitute  one  of  the  mofl  efTential 
comforts  of  life,  to  groan  anjr  longer  under  a  partial  and  ini.. 
quitous  tax  on  that  neccflary  article*.-.The  Gaelic  is  the  only 
language,  in  which  public  inflrufiion  is  conveyed  to  the  peo- 
ple ;  tboogh,  from  the  introdu&ion  of  Society  fchools^  and  a 
ilronger  defire  in  the  people  to  have  their  children  educated, 
inoft  of  them  are  now  taught  to  read  and  write. 

WiUL  jtmmali.'^'Rtd  deer,  mountain  haresi  and  tarmagai^ 
frequent  the  higher  hills.  In  the  lower,  may  be  found  roes» 
foxes,  black-cocks,  groufe,  plovers,  partridges,  eagles,  and  a 
variety  of  hawks.  The  migratory  birds  are  the  wood»cock« 
lapwing,  cuckoo,  land  rail,  fwallow,  and  mountain  finch,  or 
fnow.f  ake«  X^^  ^^^  ^^  abounds  with  a  variety  of  water 
fowl. 

Advantages  and  Di/advantages.^'The  parifli  derives  its 
principal  advantage  from  its  local  fituation  on  the  fea  coafl,  fa 
contiguous  to  the  bays  of  Lochduich,  Loehcaixon,  Kifliom, 
and  Lochorn,  fome  one  of  which,  and  generally  all  of  them,, 
ihoals  of  herrings  never  fail  to  vifit  between  the  end  of  June, 
and  the  beginning  of  November..  From  benefiting  by  this 
advantage,  they  are,  however,  in  a  gti^ajC  meafure,  prevented^ 

3  H  a-  by 

^  Since  this  wai  writteOi  the  coal  tax  has  been  bappilf  abplifliad 


428  Statiftical  Account 

by  the  prefent  exifting  laws  regarding yZi/^.     If  this  obilacle 
were  removedy  by  allowiog  the  country  people  fait  at  the  ikme 
duty  as  the  fiih  curers  have  it,  for  curing  fifli  for  home  con- 
fumption,  their  condition  would  be  greatly  improved.     They 
would  then  not  only  have  it  in  their  power,  to  cure  a  foffi- 
cient  quantity  for  the  ufe  of  their  femilies,  at  a  fmaller  ex* 
pence,  but  likewife  find  profitable  employment  in  curing  her- 
rings for  the   Irilh   markets.     It  is  now  not  at  all  oncom* 
n\on  to  fee  them,  after  catching  a  quantity  of  fiih,  in  propor- 
tion  to  their  fmall  ftock  of  {alt,  return  from  a  lake  where 
boat  loads  might  be  taken.     The  country  people,  from    the 
iame  caufe,  not  two  years  ago,  fold  good  herrings  in  Loch- 
duich  to  the  mafters  of  bulTes,  at  from    is.  to  2s.  per  bar- 
rel.    The  people  being,  from  their  infancy,  principally  em- 
ployed in  attending  cattle,  are  generally  difpofed  to  be  idle, 
and,  though  able-bodied,  continue  at  hard  work  with  re- 
ludance.     The  women  particularly,  ignorant  of  the  arts  of 
domeftic  induftry,  contribute  little  to  the  fupport  of  their  &• 
milies.     Habits  of  induftry,  however,  begin  to  be  acquired. 
The  introduAion  of  fome  fpecies  of  manufafture  would  great- 
)y  meliorate  their  condition,  without  interfering  much  with 
their  principal  employment  of  herding.     The  manufaAure  of 
coarfe  ftockings  feems  to  be  the  heft  adapted  for  the  local  fi- 
tuation  of  the  country.     There  is  a  great  quantity  of  wool 
raifed  on  iheep  farms  in  the  neighbourhood,  which  might  be 
fpun  during  the  winter,  a  feafon  generally  fpent  in  idlene&, 
and  knitted  white  they  fit  in  the  meadows  tending  their  herds. 
If  the  population  continues  to  increafe,  in  the  fame  proportion 
as  it  has  done  for  the  la{l40  years,  unlcfs  fome  employment  be 
found  for  the  people,  the  country  will  foon  be  unable  to  fup- 
port them,  and  they  will  be  reluftantly  compelled  to  feck,  in 
other  countries,  that  encouragement  and  proteAion   which 

their 


of  Locbal/b.  ^^ag 

their  own  native  land  refufes.  It  is^unneceflarj  to  remark 
the  difadvantage  to  the  ftate,  of  lofing  fo  many  of  Its  hardieft 
fabjedsy  remarkable  fipr  their  fimplicitj  of  manners  and 
obedience  to  the  laws  at  fiome,  and  ready  and  fuccefsfol  in 
defending  its  liberties  abroad.  The  time  may  perhaps  not  bo 
far  diftgnt,  when,  enervated  by  luxury,  and  funk  in  eSemi* 
nacy,  the  more  refined  inhabitants  of  the  South  will  yield  to 
the  hardier  fons  of  the  North,  the  feat  of  empire  and  the  em« 
porium  of  trade,  for  which  their  natural  refources,  .their 
perfonal  ftrength  and  vigour  of  nsind,  and  perhaps  local  ad« 
T^iotages,  fo  much  qualify  them. 


NUBt 


439  S/ati/lical  Account 

NUMBER    XXXIV. 
PARISH    OF    AUCHINLECK. 

(County  and  Prejbytery  of  Ayr^^Synod  of  Gtafgov)  and  Ayr!) 


Drawn  up  from  the  Communications  of  the  late  Rev,  Mr.  JoflV 
Dun,  Minifter  of  that  Parifb  *. 


Name^  and  Extent. 

AUCHINLECK  is  a  Celtic  compound,  fignifying  tH 
Field  of  Rocif  an  appellation  indicative  of  its  fitua. 
tion,  the  houfes  at  the  extremities  being  founded  on  rock*  and 
rocks  appearing  in  moft  places  in  the  pari(b,  chiefly  of  the 
fpecies  called  Free^Jione.  The  length  of  this  diftrid  is  about 
18,  and  the  breadth,  on  an  average,  a  Englifli  miles. 

Soil  and  Produce, -r^Kxctpt  upon  the  rocks,  and  the  banks  of 
the  dreams,  which  are  warm  rich  land,  th^  foil  is  a  (hallow, 

poor 

*  Mr.  Dun  had  propofed  to  draw  up  a  fuller  aiul  more  complete  account,  Irat 
onfortuoately  died  before  he  could  carry  his  intentioiu  into  execijtioa. 


of  Aucbinkck.  43  i 

|iDor  clay,  upon  a  cold  till  bottom.  Glenmore,  in  the  nppef' 
part  of  the  pariih,  extending  8  miles  in  l^gth,  ia  covered 
with  heath.  The  claj  foil  prevents  the  praftice  of  toniip 
eropsy  and  winter  feeding  for  cattle ;  and  has  occafioned  fe^ 
veral  arable  farms  to  be  let  for  grazing.  No  wheat  is  now 
ibwn,  except  bj  the  Earl  of  Dumfries  \  oats,  big,  or  bear, 
barley,  clover,  and  rye*gralfi,  are  much  cultivated,  but  peafe 
do  not  thrive  well.  Lime  is  ufed  as  a  manure  on  all  the- 
fiirms. 

Climate^^  Mimral  Waters,  Fijb,  He ^Tbe  ridges  of  hills  t^ 

the  N.  and  S.  of  this  pariih,  attrafting  the  clouds  coming, 
from  the  Atlantic^  prevent  fo  mqph  rain  falling  here  as  in 
ether  neighbouring  pari(hes.  There  are  two  mineral  wells, 
the  one  a  chalybeate,  and  the  other  of  a  purgative  9uality. 
Salmon  come  up  the  waters  of  Ayr  and  Lugar.  Trouts,- 
which  formerly  ufed  to  abound  in  the  Lugar,  are  now  become 
icarce,  owing  to  their  being  caught  with  nets,  and  falted  like 
herrings.  Pike  come  into  the  Lugar  from  New  (llumnoct 
Lochs. 

Mm0rais.-~JOn  the  efiate  of  Auchinlcek,  there  is  ah  eatcet- 
knt  coal,  wrought  from  time  immemorial.  For  i^  or  14- 
mles  above  the  church,  coal  is  to  be  found  alippft  €wtry 
where,  and  is  wfought  wherever  any  demand  prevails.  Above 
the  coal;  on  the  rocky  banks  •f  the  Lugar,  there  i«  a  beautiful 
Uuiih  free  ftone,  fine  in  the  grain,  which  cuts  well  i  and  at 
Bell's  Park,  there  is  a  lead  mine,  which  has  never  boea 
wrought,  and  is  faid  by  a  Ikilful  perfon  to  look  rather  like  a 
filver  mine.  On  the  lands  of  Wallace-town  there  is  a  quarry 
«f  UadL  fire^proof  ftone,  carried  far  and  near  for  building, 
ovens. 

STATJSTXCJL' 


43^. 


Statifiical  Account 


STATISTICAL  TaBLE  of  the  PARISH  of  jlUCUlNLSClC. 


Knmbcr  of  fouls  to 

i755f 

. 

S87 

Hawkers, 

-         »         8 

.•^     *L_     1 

aodward 

part 

Shoemakers, 

•             •               1 

of  the  pariih,  in 

'79«»    - 

380 

Fiddler. 

.              «       X 

•_  ^1-  -  _: 

Uage,do 

•  340 

Weavers, 

-    15 

Total, 

775 

Stocking-weaver, 

X 

- 



MiUeis,           .» 

*       3 

Decreifc  fince  1755, 

112 

Smiths,        - 

~             ~           4 

Burgher  Seceden. 

- 

- 

35 

Coopers, 

-      1 

Antiborgher  ditto. 

ao 

Ezcife  officer,   . 

-          X 

Shopkeepers, 

- 

- 

5 

Horfes, 

320 

B»ker,       -       - 

• 

• 

X 

Carts, 

So 

Mafons, 

- 

- 

6 

Sheep,           between  8000  and  9030 

MAREIAGES 

• 

BAPTISMS*. 

BURIAJLS. 

Ur784. 

- 

ZI 

»9 

«S 

1785, 

- 

9 

211 

I78<5. 

- 

la 

i(S 

'787. 

- 

H 

»7 

I7t8, 

• 

!• 

%% 

i7«9. 

• 

8 

aa 

X790. 

7 

19 

13 

7« 


i3<^ 


xoa 


Mariktst  Roais^  ViOage^  Mc On  the  laft  Tuelcbiy  of  Ao- 

gaft  there  is  a  well  frequented  fair  for  the  fale  of  Ismhs  f^ 
Aboat  X7709the  roads  were  almoft  impaflable  ki  winter ;  but 
now  three  turnpike  roads  pafs  through  the  parifli.  The  vil- 
lage of  Auchinleck  has  for  thefe  two  or  three  years  paft  beea 
on  the  decline^  and  feveral  hoofes  are  now  emptj^  owiag«  ia 
fome  meafurei  to  the  Muirkirk  Iron  and  Coal  Tar  Works, 
but  move  efpecially  to  the  Cotton  mill  at  Catrine,  which  ha?e 
attracted  inhabitants  from  this  pariik.. 

Ecclefiaflicd 


*  As  the  Seceders  do  not  regifter  the  birtha  of  their  chUdren,  thde  are  ort 
iadttded  in  the  above  ftateoenL 


igf  Auebinkck.  433 

EecUJSafiicat  Siaii^^r^T^e  chnrcfa  of  Ancfainleck,  placed  iii 
p  beautiful  fituation^  and  fpunded  on  a  rock,  was  repaired  and 
^edarged  in  1754*  The  ftipend|  iocloding  communion  ele- 
pients,  is  no  more  than  jol.  js.  zi^d.  Sterling  in  monej, 
<we  chalders  of  meal,  and  one  of  bear,  the  latter  con^moa 
lieap  meafure,  or  i^  pecks  to  the  buihel;  being  the  fiunc 
tihat  was  fetjded  by  decreet  in  1649,  fince  which  period  no 
vugmeiitation  has  taken  place,  though  all  the  other  pariihes 
in  the  neighbourhood  haire  had  their  ftipends  incrcafed.  The 
ananfe,  one  of  the  moft  commodious  neat  fmall  houfes  to  be 
tnet  with,  was  built  in  1756.  The  glebe  contains  6  acres, 
Jaius  Bosweix,  £(q.  of  Auchinleck,  a  well  known  literaiy 
fliaraAcr,  is  patron  and  principal  heritpr, 

£«iff.  Poor's  Fwut^  6*^.— •The  gained  rent  of  the  parifli  19 
3800 1.  Scotch,  divided  among  13  heritors,  of  whom  5  ufual- 
if  refide  in  the  parifli. — ^The  capital  of  the  poor's  fund,  which 
in  Z751  amounted  to  50 1.  is  now  augmented  to  100  L  lent 
out  at  the  annual  intereft  of  4  and  5  per  cent.  The  coUec* 
tions,  which,  from  1740  to  1752  f,  were,  at  an  average,  61. 
<{s«  yearlj,  have  for  10  years  preceding  Z791,  amounted  to 
f  8 1.  per  aonnm.  The  kirk-feilioq  annually  distributes  6 1. 
arifing  from  the  money  received  for  the  hire  of  the  moru 
cloths,  for  the  dues  payable  on  marriages  and  baptifms,  and 
the  intereft  of  the  before-mentioned  capital  of  100 1  *•    The 

Vol.  XL  3 1  twci 

*  For  30  yean  paft,  the  fcffion  has  nerrr  diftributed  mopey  to  th/t  poor,  ei« 
ceptin  tlie  way  of  loan,  in  order  that  if  any  of  them  get  a  legacy,  or  become 
a^le  to  refund,  a^ion  may  lie  againft  them.  But  an  aiBgnation  t% their  move» 
ables  is  n«rer  taken,  becaufe  in  the  cafe  of  ficknefs,  the  parochial  funds  would 
thereby  be  loaded  with  an  enonnous  espeace  Sot  an  attendant. 

f  Since  175  a,  the  wages  of  ipale  ferrants  have  advanced  from  4L  to  yl.,  8L» 
sad  pL;  of  female  fervants,  from  il.  13s.  and  4d.  to  5L  per  annum ;  of  labour- 
crsy  from  Sd.  to  IS. ;  of  mafons,  from  is.  to  m.  and  as.  tfd.  a-day.  The  price  of 
eggs  has  rifen  from  13  for  id.  to  4d.  ^per  do<en ;  mutton  from  ad.  to  4id.  per 
lib.;  hens,  from  4d.  to  is. ;  beef  fells  at  56.  per  lib.  of  34  atoifdupois  ounces  ^^ 
ireal  at  4id.  i  simI  kmb  M  3d.  per  lib. 


454  Siati/Ucal  Acamtt^ 

two  priacipd  berkoa»  die  Earl  of  Dumfries  ta4  |Cn  Beffdl 
•f  Auchinleck,  haye  never  refuiiBd  the  late  laciiiiibeat  moatj 
fn  the  relief  of  the  poor  wheo  neceflaij. 

jAuiquities  and  RemariaUf  Plac^^  ^e^^Jin  an  aq^e*  fom^ 
«d  by  the  Lagar  and  the  Oupol  bora,  there  are  the  semaios 
of  the  old  Caftle  of  Aochinleck,  of  whoTe  age  there  ia  not  the 
imalleft  account  to  be  Ibund.  Near  thia  caftle  there  are  throe 
remarkably  ftraigbt  and  tall  £r  trees,  planted  in  the  laft  cen- 
tury by  one  of  the  BofweUa  of  Auchinleck,  who  breu|^t  die 
plants  in  his  boot  from  Ilalzid  near  Hamilton*  Next  die 
caftle,  lies  the  Place  of  Auchinleck,  in  a  romaaticaUy  plea* 
fant  fituation ;  and  about  half  a  mile  fronk  thence,  the  Hode 
of  Auchinleck,  built  by  the  late  worthy  Lord  Auchzmlbck. 
Ayr's  Mob,  in  this  parifli,  is  &mou8  for  a  defeat  of  a  party  of 
the  0)¥enanters  in  Charles  IPs  time.  On  a  green  know 
therein,  is  a  tomb*ftone  to  the  memory  of  Mr.  Richard  Caia^ 
ron,'  preacher  of  the  gofpd,  and  feven  others,  killed*j^  the 
engagement.  At  the  head  of  this  mofs,  which  extends  { 
miles  in  length,  and  i  in  breadth,  there  are  the  reasains  of 
an  iron  forge,  erefied  at  a  great  expence  by  a  Lord  Catbcar^ 
but  fuddenly  given  up,  even  when  bar  iron  was  manufafinced 
there. 


TTOM- 


NUMBER     ixXV. 

PARISH  OF  abernethy: 

^CifuiHy  and  fttfifttrj  ofPtrth^^noi  of  Perth  and  Sttrling^ 
Jty  the  kev.  Mr.  WliXAii  DmcAX,  Mm^tr.^ 


Origin  of  tbt  Name* 

r^HE  town  of  Abernethj,  irom  wfaich  tbe  parifli  tak^ 
X  its  name,  is  called,  in  the  PiAUh  Chronicle  (pabliihe4 
bj  Innes,  and  afterwards  hj  Pikkertov)  '^  Ahurmibiyt^'^ 
or  "  Apumetbfye  ;*'  the  b  and  f  being  indifcrioiinatelj  ufed 
in  the  Gaelic  language.  The  name^  which  Highlanders  give 
to  Abernethy,  is  Obair  or  Abair  NedcbtaiUf  that  is,  tbe 
nvori  of  NeBan.  This  Nethak,  or  Nkctan  the  I.  began 
his  reign  over  the  Pids,  A  C.  456,  and  reigned  aj  years.  He 
is  faid  to  have  founded  the  church  of  Abernethy*,  and  to  have 
dedicated  that  towoi  and  an  a4joining  diilrid  of  landi  to  God 
and  St.  Bridget • 

3  I  a  JTor/n, 

*  Other  Kingi  might  tfterwards  confirm  and  ad^  to  the  fiMmdatiop  t  from 
which,  as  was  often  the  cafe,  thej  might  be  ftikd  Foonders. 


43^  StotiftUal  Accwnt 

F^rm,  Extiai,  Smfaa,  ami  CUmaii. ^This  pui&  is  d# 

an  irregular  figure*    It  eztendt  from  £.  to  W.  4  milesy  and 
from  N.  to  S.,  in  fome  places,  about  5.    The  furfiioe  is  voh* 
erett ;  a  confiderable  part  of  it  is  hill/,  and  forms  a  part  of 
that  ridge  of  hills,  called  the   OcbiUt.    The  low  groBndt 
bounded  bj  the  riVers  iCay  and  Earn  on  the  N.  and  Ae 
hills  on  the  &•  are  nearly  an  oblong  fquare ;  in  length  £nm 
£•  to  W.  about  4  £ngli(h  miles,  ah^  in  breadth  from  N*  to 
S.  about  li.    There  is  a  bank  of  a  geatk  rife^  that  nmadia- 
goaallj  through  this  tquarc.     It  begims  in  a  point  on  the  T^ 
at  the  north-t  aftef^  extremity  of  the  pari(h,  and  extends  nearly 
in  a. line  to  the  foot  of  the  hills,  not  far  from  the  weftem  ex- 
tremity/   AU  below  this  bank,  to  the  banks  of  the  Tay  nod 
the  Earn,  which  may  be  about  two  thirds  of  the  low  groundt 
is  flat,  and  die  foil  ardficial.     As  the  air  is  fdubrious,  there 
h  no  dlfcafe  peculiar  to  this  parifli.    The  prejudicca  againft 
inoculation  are  weariikg  off*     No  part  6f  the  conntiy  can  a& 
ferd  better  diverfion  to  the  fportijBuin  for  hares,  partridges, 
foXes,  bc# 

5(0i7.— About  15  feet  ^low  the  furface  of  this  flat  ground* 
Add  4  feet  below  tie  higHefi  fpring  tide  mar^  in  the  rivdta 
Taiy  and  Earn,  therie  is  uniformly  a  ftratum  of  mols,  from  %■. 
to  3  feet  thick.  This  Ib6fs  is  a  compbfidon  of  the  wood  anct 
leaves  of  fbme  trees,  IntYi  as  oak,  aller,  hazle,  birch,  Sce^ 
The  foil  above  this  bed  of  mofs  is  compofed  of  flrata  of  c^aj 
alid  fand,  of  different  thicknefs,  and  of  differeht  colours  and 
qualities.  The  fand  for  the  moft  part  is  very  foiall,  and  in 
colour  browta  and  iMrhite  ;  the  clay  oi^nge  a^d  blue  ^  and  in 
Ibme  places  the  one,  and  in  other  places  the  other  is  at  the 
farfirce^.  The  foil  of  this  flat  then,  Apon  thbt  account*  is  vari- 
ous. The  fand,  indeed,  eved  in  the  eompofition  of  tlie  feif, 
and  its  extent  upon  the  fnrfoce,  bears  but  a  Imall  proportion 

to 

a 


Of  Jbernetbyi  4^j 

t»  that  9i  the  cUj.  Theie  are  fields  of  blue  claj,  fields  of 
orange  clay,  and  fields  of  light  fand,  all  on  the  fame  farm  y 
and  even  in  the  fame  fields  part  is  fometimes  clay,  and  part 
iand,  and  often  a  mixture  of  both.  The  blue  clay  is  thougiit 
to  be  richer  than  the  orange,  and  mor^  eafilj  cultivated* 
]^th  are  equally  productive  by  proper  management.  The 
fimd  where  there  is  little  or  no  clay  is  very  eafily  managed, 
&ough  not  fo  produ&ive  as  the  days.  But  where  there  is  a 
proper  mixture  of  clay  and  land,  which  is  often  the  cafe,  it 
is  eafily  managed,  and  nfually  more  produ&ive  than  any  of 
the  othen  The  Earn,  by  breaking  down  the  oppofing  banks 
in  its  ferpentine  turning,  has  formed  beautiful  links  or 
haughs,  alternately,  on  each  fide  of  its  ftream.  The  high 
fpring  tides,  which  overflow  thefe  haughs,  carry  back,  and 
leave  on  their  furface,  the  fineft  particles  of  the  day  waflied 
down  by  the  riven  This  clay  mixing  with  the  rulhes,  and 
rich  grafles  that  grow  and  rot  on  thefe  haughs^  has  formed  a 
ioil  of  amazing  fertility.  S^ome  of  thefe  haughs  are  now  fe» 
cured  from  bemg  overflowed  by  embankments.  The  foil  of 
the  hanky  that  runs  diagonally  through  the  plain,  is  vege^ 
table  mould,  or  loatti  with  a  mixture  of  fand  \  in  feme  parta 
fli  mixture  of  till  or  natural  clay.  Above  the  bank,  to  t&e 
loot  of  the  hills,  theie  are  large  fields  of  deep  loam,  fome 
finall  fiel^  of  natural  clay,  but,  in  general,  the  foil  is  a 
light  loam,  with  a  mixture  of  fand  or  till,  and  a  gravelly 
bottom.  This  gravdly  bottom  conveys  the  water  from  the 
hills,  which,  when  not  carried  ofi*  by  proper  drains,  is  very 
hurtful*  The  foil  in  general,  among  the  hiUs,  where  they 
tfre  arable,  is  a  light  vegetable  mould,  with  fome  banks  in* 
dining  to  till  or  natural  day. 

% 
'Agriculture  and  FrQd$K€*^^lAiiit  or  no  improvements  ia 

agriculture 


^jd  Stoical  Account 

agriculture  were  made  in  this  parifli  before  the  jear  X}8a^« 
From  that  period,  farmers  from  different  parts  of  the  conn- 
tcjt  but  efpecially  from  the  Carfeof  Gowrie,  have  lettled  in 
the  parifli,  and  now  moftly  poflefs  ail  the  lower  part  of  It. 
A  different  mode  of  culture  is  introduced;  a  regular  rotation 
of  crops  is  eftabliflied.    Fallow,  wheat,  green  crop,'  (peafe 
beans,  fometimes  drilled  turnip  and  potatoes},  barlej,  gta&^* 
and  oats,  is  the  general  pradice.*    Fallow  is  prepared  by  5 
plowxngs  ;  t  in  winter  and  4  in  fummer,  dunged  and  limed 
according  to  the  quality  of  the  foil.    The  wheat  is  fown  £ram 
the  middle  of  Septemder  to  the  end  of  Ofiober,  and  the  re- 
turn is  from  xo  to  15  bolls  an  acre.    Peafe  and  beans  are 
fown  as  eirly  in  March  as  the  feafon  will  permit ;  the  ground 
Is   prepared  by  i    plowing  in   the  fpring ;  fometimes  bj  t 
plowing  in  the  winter  and  another  in  the  fpring.   The  letums 
however  are  precarious;  from  2  to  12  bolls  an  acre  J — ^Barley 
is  fown  in  May ;  the  ground  is  prepared  as  fine  as   garden 
inould,  by  x  plowing  in  autumn  and  i  or  more  in  fpring  / 
ao  lib.  weight  avordupois  of  red  clover  feed.   If  the  gnds  is 
intended  for  green  feeding,  (and,  if  intended  for  hay,  the  ad- 
dition 

•  Some  particular  ficldi,  and  CTcn  farms^  both  ki  the  hiOt  and  lorn  gtmmi 
kiad  httn  liBied,  but  by  continual  croppinf,  aad  naflulibl  masafemcnt,  tht 
lifht  land  had  been  run  almoft  to  a  capmi  morr»MB,  and  the  clay  reduced  to  a 
fttte  worTe  than  that  of  nature.  The  farms  in  general,  both  in  the  hills  and 
low  ground,  ^ere  divided  into  inJUld  and  outfield.  In  the  hills,  barley  and  oats 
ahenately,  with  fometimes  a  few  peafe,  was  the  mode  of  cropping  on  the  in- 
field ;  3  years  o&ts,  and  3,  4,  and  fometimes  5  years  in  natural  grab,  waa  the 
mode  of  managing  the  outfield.  The  dung  made  through  the  year  was  laid  or 
as  a  preparation  for  bear.  The  (heep  and  cattle,  during  fummer,  folded  at 
sight  00  that  part  of  the  outfield  pafture  that  was  intended  for  oaU  next  year* 
fiRnetimes  enriched  it  Ibificiently  for  3  fucceeding  crops.  The  culture  of  the 
low  ground  dlflSered  little  from  that  of  the  hill,  only  a  few  fflore  pcaie  aud  beans 
were  fown,  and  here  and  there  a  few  acres  0f  fallow,  which  was  followed  by 
wheat,  but  little  or  no  fowu  grafs.    No  regular  rotation  of  crops. 


difioa  of  z  bulliel  of  lye-gtais  feed),  is  Cbwa  ia  each  acre  a« 
long  with  the  bark/.  The  return  is  from  5  t»  zo  bolls  ai| 
acre.  Grais  is  partly  cut  green  tot  fummer  food  to  the 
yfotk.  horfes  and  milk  cows,  and  fbnoetimes  £or  a  few  you^g 
cattle  in  the  llraw  yard  ^  aUo  a  little  for  pafture  to  give  the 
cows  an  airing.  Tlie  reft  of  it,  which  will  commonly  be 
abont  the  half,  is  made  into  hay  ^  which  the  farmer  uicfi  fbc 
bis  own  horfes,  or  occafionally  liells.  The  quantity  of  hay 
upon  an  acre  will  be  from  200  to  400  ftones,  22  lib.  avoir- 
dupois to  the  ftone.  The  firft  crops  were  more  luxuriant ; 
about  500  ftones  of  excellent  hay  have  been  produced,  at  aa 
average,  over  a  large  field.  Sotne  of  the  ftems  of  clover^  ii^ 
the  fwath  after  the  mower,  meafiired  in  length  4  feet.  From 
-«the  lo(s  of  milk  cows,  and  the  danger  weU  known  in  paftor- 
ing  red  clover  by  homed  cattle,  fome  of  the  farmers  are  now 
laying  down  part  of  their  land  with  white  clover,  ijt^  and 
rib  grafs  for  pafture.  Oats  are  fown  ia  March  and  the  be- 
ginning of  April;  the  ground  is  prepared  by  z  plowing;  the 
returns  from  8  to  Z2  bolls  an  acre.  One  man  and  a  pair  of 
horfes  plow  in  the  low  ground.  The  ploughs  ave  of  diffe-i 
rent  kinds,  fome  with  iron  heads,  fome  with  crooked  focks, 
chains  below  the  beam,  &c. ;  but  all  with  caft  iron  mould- 
boards. — ^The  harrows  are  different ;  fome  coupled  one  way, 
fome  another,  fome  drawn  by  a  pair  of  horfes,  fome  by  a 
fiogle  horfe.  The  rollers  ufed  are  of  different  conftrufiions 
aad  different  i^eights,  for  the  .purpofes  of  breaking  xlods, 
Dosoothing  the  furnace  for  the  fmaller  feeds,  and  condcnfing 
the  lighter  foils.  There  are  4  threfliing  machines  which  are 
found  to  anfwer  well. — ^Harveft  begins  in  the  month  of  Sep- 
tember, Ibmetimes  later  even  in  the  low  ground,  and  always 
in  the  hills.  Some  of  the  farmers  that  hav^fettled  here  from 
olher  parts  of  the  country,  owing  poIBbly  to  the  fmallnels 
loi  their  ftock,  the  exhaufted  ftate  of  the  j^round  at  their 

entry, 


44^  Stati/tical  Account 

tntrj,  the  gfeat  rife  of  rent,  and  the  improvement  of  die&r 
fiirms»  have  for  fome  time  paft  had  a  ftmggk  to  falfil  Aeir 
engagements ;  but  now  their  farms  begin  to  anfwer  their  ova 
ezpeftationsy  and  far  to  exceed  the  expeditions  of  thofe  a- 
mon^  whom  thej  have  fetried.  Nor  have  the  old  temnts, 
vrith  liftlefs  apathy,  feen  the  exertions  and  improvementB  of 
thofe  who  have  fettled  among  them  ;  cfaej  have  not  onlj  co- 
piedf  but  even  tried  to  excel  them  in  improvement.  FalloVy 
wheat,  and  fown  graft  have  been  introduced  among  the  hill 
farms.  Lime  is  now  laid  on  old  lej,  as  well  as  fidloW,  widi 
judgment  and  fucceft*  The  crops  of  wheat  and  fown  gn6 
'>are  often  confiderable,  and  of  good  quality.  This  new  aaode  of 
farming  has  induced  many  of  them  to  give  up  keeping  (heep. 
Some  of  the  hill  farms  are  very  exteniive.  '  Great  port  of 
what  is  called  outfield  is  fteep,  and  of  difficult  acoefs^  ^7^ 
tdfo  at  a  diftanoe  from  their  honfes ;  that  ground  thcj  are 
with  great  judgment  laying  out  for  pafture  in  parks  from  a- 
bout  4  to  ao  acres.  The  fmall  feuert  in  the  town  of  Aber- 
aethy,  who  may  h^ve  x,  a,  or  3  acres,  and  not  lyiog  nU  to- 
gether,  though  they  cannot  conveniently  get  it  fallowed,  are 
laying  on  lime,  fowing  graft,  and  drilling  beans.  £acfa 
fiinner  raifes  as  much  flax  as  is  fufficient  for  his  own  family  i 
little  is  raifed  for  ftle. 

Inehfunst  Orcbardt^  8oe.*«Some  farms  in  the  low  ^un4 
nre  indoftd,  and  fubdivided  by  ditches  and  dioro  hedges. 
The  farmers,  not  thinking  the  ground  adapted  to  pafture,  fty 
ihe  hedges  are  hurtful,  by  ftoppine  the  free  circulation  of 
air,  and  hoarding  a  ^at  number  of  fparrows,  and  other 
birds,  that  deftroy  the  grain.  None  of  the  hedges  are  in  a 
thriving  condition  (except  thofe  on  the  eftate  of  Crasgfetiie)^ 
which  is  chiefly  owing  to  the  little  care  taken  of  them.  One 
farm  at  the  foot  of  the  hiUsi  containing  about  88  acres,  fit 

bo*. 


Of  Ahemetbj,  441 

bckh /or  grain  aad  pailore,  Mr.  WiUkm  Samoierville  (tbot 
hmag  onlj  a  lealie  of  )o  years)  has  fufficicoily  indoM  aad 
iilidinded  by  Hone  dikes  aad  thom  badges  at  his  own  ex.. 
pence*  Fmk  trees  thrive  ^ell  in  the  low  ground,  aiid  their 
finut  is  not  thoHgbt  infineior  to  any  in  tbe  coontfy-^Tberp 
ore  4  orchards  in  the  parifli :  Alkf  elnit  plane  trees,  to. 
wherever  thqr  have  been  planted,  grow  to  a  good  fixe,  ai|d 
the  wood  is  of  tbe  beft  quality.  The  N.  fide  of  the  hill  is 
pnrticnhdy  adapted  for  planting.  Scotch,  and  otjber  finp,  if 
plantedt  would  tnm  out  to  the  advantage  of  tbe  proprietors, 
and  tend  to  beautify  tbe  country.  A  part  of  tbefe  hills, 
plantad  about  20  or  30  y«ra  i^o,  are  in  a  thriving  oendi- 


CaUk^  Ctmmen^^  W^l%$%  te^^Both  cattle  and  horfts  are 
bred  in  this  pariib,  of  a  good  fiae  and  confidereUe  vdlue; 
Some  of  tbe  fiurmers  pay  a  parbcnlar  attention  to  this  pleaf« 
ing  and  proftable  oljea.  There  are  only  3  flocks  of  iheep. 
About  50  yean  ago,  alm'oft  every  farmer  had  a  dock.  At 
that  time  there  was  little  wheat  ibwn,  and  no  gnift.  From 
experience,  it  is  found,  that  die  advantages  arifiqg  from  wheat 
•nd  grafti  aihcl  their  being  aUe  to  breed  double  the  number 
of  cattle  bmd  foiuetly,  far  overbalances  the  profit  derived 
from  keeping  flieep*  ThoTe  who  now  do  fo,  have  an  exten* 
five  range  of  hiUy  ground  i  a  confideraUe  part  of  which  is 
cofered  with  heath.  CSonfidemble  quantities  of  wheat  and 
barley  are  fold  and  carried  to  Perth,  or  exported  at  New« 
bofgh  (bore.  Small  quantitiea  of  oats  and  peafe  are  pur* 
chafed  by  the  farmers  in  iifo  for  feed.  The  ancient  fervtr 
tudes,  fo  oppreflive  and  harraffing  to  the  farmer,  are  almoft 
entirely  abriiiked.  Men  fervants  get  from  61.  to  lol.  Ster« 
ling  Oi^year ;  women  fervants  from  al.  los.  to  31.  Men  fer- 
vants during  harveft  {jot  about  a  month)  receive  from  il.  js. 

3K    f  to 


44^  Statiftkal  Accuunt 

to  iL  I09. ;  women  from  i8s.  to  il.  is.*  Mafons  wm^ 
«re  IS.  8d.  per  day  ;  Wrights^  is.  3d. ;  tailors,  8d. ;  a  thai^ch- 
€r  gets  18.  6d.  a-daj,  a  labourer  is.»  and  a  tlireflier  8d«  with 
their  viftualSf  or  7d.  per  boll.  The  prices  of  proTifiooa  are 
nearly  the  Csime  as  in  Perth  ;  but  there  are  rather  too  nmny 
ftle-bonfes  in  the  parifti  there  being  no  fewer  than  11,  wliem 
0  Of  4  might  fttffice. 

Rhers^  Fijb^  IJhnd,  Mills,  &€.^T)ie  Tay,  which  waflm 
part  of  the  northern  boundary,  is  navigaUe  ;  it  affords  voanj 
ftlmon  and  lea-tront.  The  proprietor  of  Carpow  has  fifiunga 
upon  it,  which  yield  him  lool.  per  annum.  In  the  middle 
of  thb  river,  oppofite  to  Mugdri^m,  (which  is  in  the  parifli  of 
Newburgh),  is  an  ifland  (called  Mugdntm  IJIamd)  belooging 
to  this  parifli.  It  is  oeariy  i  Eoglifli  mile  in  length  j  its 
breadth  varies,  but  its  greateft  is  I98  yards  i  foot.  It  me«* 
fuf«s  31  acres,  of  which  ai  are  embanked  under  cmltivation, 
and  produce  Iui:uriant  crops ;  the  remaining  part  b  efteemed 
valuable  as  a  fait  marfli  for  pafture.  There  is  a  houfe  upon  ir« 
in  which  the  tenant  refides  with  his  fennly;  it  rents  about 
581.  Sterling.  Mr.  Hay  of  Leys,  the  proprietor,  has  fifliinga 
-in  the  river  that  rent  at  about  apol.  yeariy.^-The  Earn, 
which  bounds  the  northern  part  of  the  parilfa,  (till  it  falls  into 
Ihe  Tay,  a  little  below  the  manfioo-houfe  of  Carpow),  is  na. 
^igable  for  feveral  miles,  which  l^as  been  pf  late  years  the 

fource 

?  Abottt  tf  ^ar^  ago,  .the  bcft  plijughmp  coi^4  ^Vfp  bo^  Imi  at  4I.  or  4!. 

f  OS.  Sterling,  and  women  at  aL  for  the  year.  Hameft-men  at  il.  and  women  at 
xjs.  Farmers  ^oudlj  complain  of  the  fudden  and  gfc«t  rife  of  wages.  Cottages 
are  not  ^couraged  {  they' are  eyen  demolifhed.  By  thts  impolitic  meafure  many 
ffi  the  jo^er  clafs  of  people  are  forced  into  towns,  and  their  children  trained 
^o  other  occupations.  Thus  the  coiintr^r  is  deprived  of  the  beft  nnrfery  for  ablp 
and  healthy  fervaiits,  frrvants  trained  from  their  infancy  to  fobriety  and  indu^- 
'  try,  y^^\^  *od  pradicc  in  the  occriiar  labouii  of  agriculture. 


Iburcc  of  much  ftgricultaral  improvcmeotf  atf  moft  of  the 
farmecs  have  their  Ume  brought  bj  w^ter,  either  £roia  the 
N;  of  England,  or  the  Earl  of  Elgin's  Ihne  kihis  on  the  conft 
of  Fife.  It  piroduced  falmcn  and  trout  as  tHe  Izy.  The 
frflmon  are  of  an  excellent  qualitj,  fell  at  6d.  and  7^.  per 
Itb*  in  the  fpring,  and  4^.  during  fumraer.  Few  indeed  are 
fold  in  the  neighbourhood.  They  are  chiefly  fent  to  Perth, 
.and  from  thence  to  the  Englifli  market*  FifUng  upon  t\m 
Taj  begins  about  the  middle  of  April  \  upon  the  Earn, 
when  sot  frozen,  aboufr  the  beginning  of  February  ;  it  is  given 
over  in  both  on  the  zjth  of  Anguft.  There  are  two  paflago 
boats  00  the  Earn  1  -  one  at  Cary^  which  is  feldom  employed  $ 
•nother  at  Ffrryfiilii  upon  the  eftate  of  Carpow  :  this  place 
being  near  the  junftion  of  the  Earn  and  the  Tay,  die  boat  be* 
longing  xm  it  is  often  employed^  in  carrying  paflengers'  over  the 
Tay  to  the  Carfe  of  Gowrk.  There  are  ao  boats  from  the 
parifli  tfnsUy  employed  ift  fiihing  during  the  feafen  \  each 
boat  having  1  men.*  who  are  generally  tradtfmen  or  labourers 
in  the  neighbourhood :  they  ere  allowed,  for  wtfges^  6s.  6i. 
a*week,  with  what  trout  they  Catch^  The  Farg^  a  rivulet, 
about  an  Engliik  mile  and  a  half  W.  from  Abersethyy  -a- 
bounds  with  fmall  trout.  Upon  it  there  are  one  oil  mil]^ 
with  %  com  and  t  lint  dkce  belonging  tcr  this  parifli^^There 
is  another  imall  rivulet^  oalled  the  Ballo  Bum^  that  runs  by 
Abemethy  on  the  W^  and  fupplies  the  inhabitants  with  ^9* 
ter  \  on  it  alio  there  b  a  com  miU« 

Populaiioni^'^tbit  population  has  ^eetea&d  fomevvhaf 
within  thefe  40  years. 

The  return  to  l)r.  Web((er  in  2755*  was         -»  I490 

By  an  accurate  lift  uketf  in  the  months  of  Odobet 

and  November  17921  the  number  was  oiily        -     1415 

Seoteale,    *    75 

3  £  a  e 


444  StattJIkd  Atcoma 

or  tbdc  there  were,  MdeiLViBHlM.       Meaiben  oT  die  Uab.  Ctaf^    «st 


1Mcr»ycM«(ip,  ijt       141 

Aarikw^MrSMiici 

^          •         774 

Betwtca  10  Md  se^ 

158       III 

Bw^hcr  dktsi 

•          •             4 

— —  waadjOk 

Ut%       337 

Rdkf  ditto. 

-         -         1 

jotndyo, 

1x8        Its 

4 

AgcA  70  Md  apwirdt*,  at         s> 

4 

6«4        731 

MI5 

list  or  BAFTism,  Maikiaob,  aks  Bouau, 

rMpTEAES. 

Baptifini. 

Mtkt.       rendn. 

M■n{^es. 

Butfali. 

17»4 

^»            5 

9 

44 

17«J 

X4        x6 

x6 

40 

»7W 

19        22 

IX 

as 

1787 

n     14 

XI 

37 

.788 

19     20 

15 

40 

1789 

27        x8 

u 

40 

»79o 

\s      19 

8 

28 

1791 

16        14 

18 

61 

1793 

17        24 

II 

34 

•• 

Anfiuftl  wertgei 

162      352 

112 

347+ 
3H 

ilf«in^ll«rM^TIien  are  m  tlw  {Mrifli  81  oitk  i»eivm 
■and  3  female  ones.  Many  of  theui  cacefl  in  wtiridli*  aD 
-lutida  of  boufehold  cloth :  bat  die  gtcatdl  adnber  \m^  teen 
employed,  for  feveral  yean  paft,  in  working  wbtft  ia  called 
»l<(lia  Unttt,   to  tbc  Perth  merchaatt.    The  yam  &r  tbefe 

weba 

•  There  «te  none  BOW  liwig  in  the  ptrifli,  who  have  etteined  tp  the  •«  cf 
JO,  Irat  a  or  3  ere  veiy  near  it.    One  man  died  lately  at  the  age  of  96. 

t  Tho«ghitappea»,ft«ntU8li*ofbari*h.  which  i»  emiiaed  fttw  *e  na- 
.rilhietifter.  theie  hare  beta  ibr  ,  7M.ap.ft  347,  ^t  thii  doe.  not  ttemahi 
ea^y  the  deaths  that  took  pbce  daring  that  tine. »  fewral  perfomfiwnothef 
rj^aiftcthai*  ton  btricd  here,  sad  a  few  from  thti  iq  otha  placet. 


ofAhtmethy.  ^45 

webs  diqr  get  warp'd  and  ready  to  put  into  ttw  loom,  aadaas 
ollo«9ed  fe  much  per  yaid  for  weariiig.  Some  tiitoe  ago  tfaetr 
profits  were  great,  but  tbej  now  find  it  difficult  to  procure  e«« 
plojOMDt ;  and,  when  employed,  can  earn  but  a  feaotj  fabfift- 
coce.  Two  or  three  buy  yam,  which  they  mana&aure  and 
fell  where  they  can  find  die  beft  markn.  Afmall  qnanthy  of 
dialer  and  dornick  is  made  here ;  but  tbefe  only  for  the  mCs 
of  private  families. 

lUnU  amd  Pffrietorj.^Tb^  vahied  rent  is  8884!.  15s.  Id. 
Scotch :  The  realiprnt  about  400ol.  Sterling.  Farms  kt  at 
from  los.  to  al.  per  acre :  Bnrgh  acres  from  il.  zos.  to  4I. 
There  are  90  proprietors  of  land.  Excepting  three  they  are 
all  feuers ;  feme  of  them  hold  of  the  Earl  of  Mansfield ;  al« 
moft  dl  in  Ae  town  of  Abemethy  hold  of  Lord  Douglas.-* 
There  are  1  commons,  x  belonging  to  the  burgefled  of  A-^ 
bemethy,  lying  a  little  above  the  town,  on  which  Ae  inhabi- 
tants pafture  their  cows  and  horfes  in  fummer,  and  from 
which  they  are  furnifhed  with  div0ts^  turf,  Sec.  The  other 
lying  £•  from  the  hills  of  Balgony  and  Abemethy,  belongs 
to  the  adjoining  heritors  and  feuers.  A  divifion  of  this 
common  is  intended. 

EteUfiaJKcal  Sta^^  Sc^. — The  church  is  remarkable  for 
nothing  hot  its  antiquity.  There  are  no  records,  nor  fo  much 
as  a  tradition  when  it  was  built  f  •    The  value  of  the  living, 

ezclufivo 

f  Here  was  an  EpSfcopal  ice,  tad  there  v«rc  a^'eleAms  of  bUbopt  wlicft 
there  was  only  i  bt0iop  in  Scotland,  or  at  leaft  in  the  kin^don  of  the  K^hrf-  ■  ■  ■  ■ 
When  KiMVBTB  the  III.  Kin^;  of  Scois^  had  cntirci/  fnbdved  the  FiAs^  be 
tranflated  the  Epifcopal  fee  to  St.  Andrew  V  After  thb  the  Church  of  Aber^ 
nethjT  became  a  Collegiate  Church,  poreffed  by  the  CuUeca.  While  they  WA 
it,  there  was  an  Umkurfiiy  here  for  the  education  of  youth,  as  appean  from  the 
ftKfty  book  of  St.  Andrew's.— i^Ia  the  year  uyj^  (by  which  tt*e  the  Cnhleaa 

«efe 
3 


446  Siatj/licaJ  Jiccaumt 

cxclnfive  of  the  glebe  and  manfe,  is  591.  xjs.  7id4  Cc 
-elements,  fl.  xxs.  x/r*;  gn^f  ^1*  13'«  A^^'t  ^^  bell>  3 
and  1  pecks  of  bear;  x8  bolls  of  oaumeal;  x  boU  3  fiilocs 
and  a  pecks  oi  wheat.  The  manfe  was  built  in  die  jear 
1774 ;  both  it  and  the  offices  are  in  good  repair.  There  nre 
4  acres  of  a  glebe.  The  Earl  of  Mansfield  is  pativuu  The 
Antiburghers  have  a  meeting^houfe  here.  Their  minifter  is 
a  very  prudent  fenfible  man,  quiet,  and  conicieaiioiis  in  the 
difcharge  of  his  duty.  The  fpirit  of  feceffion  has  for  fomc 
time  paft  been  on  the  decline*  The  members  of  theeftaUilh- 
ment  and  the  Antibuig hers  live  in  the  nmft  friendly  liabxt^* 

Schools  and  Poor.'-^TheTt  are  a  fchools  in  the  parilh,  at  an 
average  about  50  fcholara  at  each  during  the  winter*  The 
parochial  fchoolmafter  has  generally  that  number  thromglioac 
the  year.  His  (alary,  and  i^rquifites  as  (eilion-clerk,  amounts 
to  about  9I.  i8s.  He  has  likewife  the  iocerefl  of  X90L  and  il. 
xjs.  4d.  from  a  mortification  for  teaching  poor  fcholars.  The 
fees  for  teaching  are  very  low.  He  has  a  good  houfet  but  no 
garden*  His  income  will  not  exceed  3oL«^The  poor's  funds 
are  made  up  of  the  money  colleSed  on  Sundays,  and  the 
rent  of  11  acres  of  land,  called  Kiri  land^  amounting  annnally 
to  about  25!.  Sterling.     The  poor  on  thefe  funds  are  from  13 

to 

a 

were  much  difcoaraged),  it  was  turned  into  a  priory  of  regular  canofts  of  St. 
Augufitne,  who  Were  brought,  h  is  faid,  from  die  abt>cy  of  Inchaffray.— -— Fotf- 
91s,  in  his  Treatife  on  Tytbes,  fayt,  that  "  the  Collegiate  Church  was  found- 
**  ed  by  the  Earl  of  Angus  ;*'  probably  he  meant  Archibalb  Earl  of  Ang^v 
tord  of  Abernethyf  who  gsve  the  town  t  Oiarfer  bf  Privileges,  AftgMk  23. 
1476.  The  fiarl  might  be  a  beBefador  to  the  Collegiate  Chuith,  or  reftore  it 
to  a  better  ftate  than  it  had  been  in  §dt  fome  time  bcfott,  and,  on  that  account, 
might  be  faid  to  haw  fonnded  it.  To  the  above  charter,  a  venerable  man,  S:r 
JoBR  FaitZLi,  (that  is  FtAtca),  Provoft  of  the  Collegiate  Church  of  Aber- 
nethy,  was  one  of  the  witnelTes.  This  charter  was  renewed  by  Wiliiax  Eafl 
of  Adgus^at  Holyroodhoufe,  oa|  the  i6tfa  of  November  i6xfr.  By  thir  ckvtet 
<he*(overamMt  of  Abemcthy  is  vefttd  hi  2  bailies  and  15  coinreUor&r 


of  Abernethy.  447 

%.o  189  and  get  from  is.  to  5s.  a.month.  The  Antiburgher 
Icirk-feftioD  diftribotes  2cl.  Sterling  anntiallj  to  the  poor  in 
^is  pariih,  befides  contributing  to  the  relief  of  others  that 
attend  their  ipeeting-honfe  from  neighbouring  pariihes.  There 
are  no  begging  poor  in  the  parifli,  jet  no  place  is  more  pefter* 
cd  with  vagrants  and  poor  from  other  c^uarters* 

Roads  and  Bridges. ^--^-^TheTt  are  2  public  roads  9  .that 
which  leads  to  Fife  by  Newburgh  is  in  tolerable  repair ;  the 
other,  which  is  through  the  glen  of  Abernethj  (and  bj  which 
great  quantities  of  coal  and  lime  are  brought  from  Fife  to 
Strathearn)  is  very  bad  $  that  which  ftrikes  off  the  glen  to 
Auchtermuchty,  is  in  winter  almoft  impalEible.  The  ftatuts 
ImlMur,  and  compofition-mooey  allowed^  are  totally  inadequate 
to  keep  thefe  roads  in  repair.  There  are  2  bridges  over  the 
Fargi  the  one  at  Gowly,  which  is  old  and  ruinous,  the 
other  b^low  Potty  Mill^  which  is  too  narrow  for  carriages, 
and  lies  at  fomt  diftance  from  the  public  road.  A  new  bridge 
over  this  water,  near  Aberargie,  would  be  a  defirable  objeft, 
as  after  heavy  rains  it  fwells  to  fuch  a  height,  and  is  fo  f apidf 
that  it  \%  both  difficult  and  dangerous  to  crofs  itf 

Antiquities. — ^Tn  the  churchf-yard  (lands  a  tower  of  an  tj^ 
traordinary  conftrudlon*  It  confifts  of  64  courfes  of  hewn 
done,  laid  ciiyrularly  and  regularly,  is  in  height  74  feet,  in 
irircumference  48  feet.  It  is  difficult  to  affign  this  to  any  but 
the  PiAs,  as  it  (lands  in  the  capital  of  their  dominions.  There 
is  but  one  other  tower  of  a  fimilar  flrudure  in  Scotland,  vix« 
at  Brechin.  The  ufe  of  thefe  towers,  according  to  the  lateft 
and  moft  probable  conjedures,  was  not  only  for  the  con* 
finement  of  thofe  who  were  doing  penance,  but  alfo  for  calU 
ing  people  to  public  worlhip  by  the  found  of  a  horn  or 
trumpet,  before  the  introdudion  of  bells.  S.  W.  from  the 
^wn  thefc  is  ^  hill,  called  Cajlh-l^w.    Tradition  fiiys  there 


44t  Statjfiual  Accomnt  \ 


a  fert  upon  the  top  of  it ;  it  pcobaUj  ftrvel  £bc  eae  of 
tlioft  watch  towen  on  which  the  PiAs  ubd  to  kindle  fire%  on 
ittdden  iavafiont,  infurreftionay  or  At  approaeh  of  the  ese- 
mj ;  thefe  fignals  were  coamiiiiicated  from  tower  to  tower, 
till  the  whole  country  was  alarmed  and  flew  to  arms.  Xhcfe 
fires  were  attended  with  the  blowing  of  horns,  which  w«s  the 
figoal  for  war.  From  this  hill  there  is  a  moft  beaatifal  and 
flstenfive  profpeft.  Abont  a  oule  and  a  half  £•  firom  Aher- 
nalhj,  a  little  helow  the  manfiiwwhoofe  of  Garpow,  ftoed  the 
ancient  caftle  which  belonged  to  the  Lords  of  Aberacthy*; 
part  of  its  foundation  may  ftill  be  feen.  In  the  S.  W.  comer 
of  this  pwiih,  among  the  hills,  ftanda  Bahmrd  CasOi^  whid 
belonged  to  the  MuaaATS  of  Bslvaird,  in  the  leign  of  Ro- 
SUT  the  lid.  It  is  now  the  property  of  the  £ari  of  Mam- 
nuLOy  the  lineal  defioendent  of  that  ancient  houie. 


NUM. 


«  One  of  the  predtcdfanaf  tiw  Earl  of  Aaavs  mairied  the  heti«&  ^  JLm^ 
HiTST,  and  by  her  got  this  lonUhip,  which  is  now  yefted  in  the  perfoa  of  Lori 
DoooLAi,  who  annually  receives  the  fiMisof  naoy  neighbouring  cftates^  as  well 
m  tf  the  town  of  AbezMthy. 


of  Gknbfrvie^  449 

NUMBER    XXXVI. 
FARISH  OF  GLENBERVIE. 

QCpuMijf  of  Kincaritm^^PreJbytery  of  F^rioun-^Sjnod  q/ 
^n^  and  Meami.^ 

f]f  tht  Rru.  Mr,  Alexakbe  T90M,  Mim/Ur* 


NanUf  SiiMatiofif  and  Extent. 

THIS  parlih  affords  few  materials  for  ftatiftical  inveftu 
gation.  It  probaUj  takes  its  name  from  its  low 
fitnation^  and  vicinity  to  the  water  of  Bervie,  along  the  £• 
fide  of  which  it  extends  for  nearly  3  miles.  From  N.  to  S. 
it  is  6i  miles  in  length,  and  5  miles  in  breadth  from  E.  to 
W.,  con^funing  abo\it  10,990  Scotch,  or  13,963  Englifli 
acres. 

Soilf  Produce^  Culthqtion^  and  Climate,  Sec.— tThe  foil,  in  the 
upper  and  northern  part  of  the  pariih,  is  generally  a  wet 
bluiih  day,  and,  in  the  lower,  a  light  loam.  The  principal 
^opa  are  oats,  bear,  peafe,  potatoes,  clorer  and  rye-grafs* 
The  crops  are,  in  general,  more  than  fuificieat  for  the  fopport 

yot.XI.  *  3L  of 


45©  Statl/Hcal  Account 

of  the  inhabitants  *•  The  cultivation  of  turnips  likewifb  en-s 
gages  the  attention  of  the  farmer  now ;  and  he  alwajs  finds 
them  a  profitable  crop,  if  properly  managed.  For  the  know* 
ledge,  however,  of  this,  and  indeed  of  improvements  in  ge^ 
neraly  this  county  and  neighbourhood  are  principally,  if  not 
altogether,  indebted  to  Mr.  Barczjiy  of  Urie,  whofe  exer- 
tions in  agriculture  have  been  very  great,  and  attended  with 
fuccefs.  The  diiyate  here  is  rather  cold  than  otherwife,  but 
healthy;  and  the  bar  veil  is  early  or  late  according  to  the  fem- 
fon,  the  nature  of  the  foil,  and  the  fituation  of  the  ground. 
There  are  53  ploughs  in  the  pariih. 

Population. — The  number  of  inhabitants  in  this  pariih  has 
increafed  above  one  fourth,  within  thefe  40  years,  as  will  ap« 
pear  from  the  following 

PopuLATioK  Table  of  the  Pariih  of  Glevbehvie. 

Voder  10  ycirt  of  age,        -        477 

Between  10  and  20,  .         244 

■  ao  —  30,  -        siS 

— — :—  30  and  40,  -         19^ 

115 
9» 

XQP 
T  46 

9 
3 

XJOi 

Avera^ 

• 
«  In  1782,  however,  which  wat  a  Ycry  remarkable  yeat  here,  the  cn>p  wa» 

ycry  deficient,  and  the  poor  reduced  to  great  diftrefs.    The  ground  did  not 

produce  fo  much  grain  ai  would  have  mamtained  the  inhabitants  6  months.    lo 

that  and  the  following  year,  the  kirk-feflion  were  obliged  to  apply  nearly  140^ 

Sterling  of  their  fund*,  in  parchafing  white  peafe  and  barley,  in  order  to  prefervo 

the  poor  from  fuffering  by  want,  and  to  lelievc  the  neceflltiea  of  other  isiaatr 

Utanti. 


No.  of  malet,       -       -      750 

Toul,         -           — — 

1307 

ed  to  Dr.  Webfter, 

958 

IncrealiBa 

349 

No.  of  Scotch  Epifcopf liaof,    • 

100 

— —  Secedera, 

X 

.'— —  Roman  CathoUcty 

z 

of  Gknher^ki  451 

.  ATcnfe  of  binhf  fer  the  laft  5  No.  of  fquare  wrig^tt,  •           8 

ycari*,        -            -            29  --^—  tailorty            "  -           XJ 

bitto  of  marriagcf,             -             10  '          wcaveri,               -  i^ 

tMtto  buriaU,            -            *        16 fmiths,  *  -         5 

No.  of  proprieton,           *         f    7        ihocnaakcri,  -            27 

■  ■■  fanners,        -        -         |  33 flaz-dreflln,  -  8 

■  cottagcrty  or  fubtenasts    x6o  —  coopers,          -  -          4 
-mafona,           -          -          4  whccl-wrighti,  -        §   3 


Kents  and  Liafes. — The  valued  rent  is  3,336!.  Scotch  ;  the 
i^eal  or  prefent  rent  about  loool.  Sterling,  which  could  be 
nearlj  doubled,  were  the  Isnds  to  be  let  immediately.  But 
as  manj  of  the  leafes  ate  of  an  old  date,  the  rents  at  prefent 
paid  are  low,  and  the  ihduffrioiis  judicious  tdnant  is  in  a  thriv- 
ing ilate.  The  tenants,  efpeciallj  on  the  lands  belonging  to 
Lord  Monboddo,  are  in  this  agreeable  fituatibn.  Thej  hold 
their  farms  on  eafj,  and,  perhaps,  peculiar  terms  ;  and,  froih 
this  circuiiiftance,  and  the  countenance  of  his  Lordfliip,  they 
have  the  greateft  encouragement  to  induftry.  Tlieir  leafes 
are,  probably,  of  an  ilncoihmon  nature ;  being,  a  life,  19 
years ^  and  a  life  :  The  pofTeflbr,  during  the  19  years,  bames 
the  life  with  which  the  leafe  ends. 

3  L  a  Churchy 


^  ifo  certain  conclulioii,  at  to  the  increafe  or  decreafe  of  the  population,  can 
be  dflnm  from  this  average,  at  the  tc^l^er  of  bapcifmt  is  very  imperfed.  Thii, 
io  a  great  degree,  it  owing  to  the  carelei&ieft  of  the  parents  about  the  regtib*- 
tton  of  their  chlldrent  names,  and  their  backwardnefs  to  paj  the  uz. 

f  Of  thefe  only  z  refidet  in  (be  pariih. 

X  In  this  nnmber,  thofe  who  have  finall  pieces  of  ground,  and  tu^bhmr^  at 
they  call  it,  vtitb  etbers  in  plowing,  are  not  included. 

4  In  the  abovt  lift  of  ttadefmcn,  jottrncymen  and  apprentices  art  enuaei^ 
•ted. 


45<  Stattfikdl  AccouMt 

Churchf  School^  and  Poor — ^t*he  chnrch  Was  pardj  refpoBf 
in  1771,  and  is  in  good  condition,  bat  is  ill  contrived  for 
the  intended  parpofe,  and  too  fmaU  for  the  congregation. 
Thofe  of  the  Scotch  Epifcopal  perfuafion  have  a  fmall  sneec* 
iDg  houfe  for  public  worihip.  The  manfe  inras  built  ^SkmA 
70  jears  ago,  and  has  been  three  times  repaired.  The  ffi* 
pend  was  augmented  laft  year,  and  is  nor^  ^6  boUs  of  meal, 
^a  boUs  of  bear,  and  43I.  17s.  lo^d.  in  monej,  induding 
5I.  for  communion  elements.  The  glebe  is  a  little  above  the 
legal  fize*  Mrs<  Helen  Milne  NicoUbn  of  Glenbervy  is  pa- 
tron* There  is  a  parochial  fchoolmafter,  a  new  fchool-hoofe, 
and  a  dwelling-hoofe  for  the  mafter^  The  fcfaool  fees^  for 
teaching  Engliih  and  writing,  are  is.  6d« ;  for  arithmetic, 
2s. ;  and,  for  Latin,  as.  6d.  The  number  of  fchcdars  are 
about  40,  at  a  medium.  The  falarj  is  about  200  merka 
Scotch.  The  number  of  weekly  penfioners  may  be  tecknatcd, 
at  an  average,  about  5  or  6,-  befides  many  others,  who  receive 
occafional,  and  often  coniiderable  fupply^  The  fund  for  their 
fupport  and  relief  arifes  from  the  intereft  of  Z36I.  Sterling, 
faved  moftly  out  of  former  coUeAions,  the  weekly  collec- 
tions on  Sunday  (about  8s.  at  an  average),  mortcloths,  pro- 
clamation money,  and  the  rents  of  a  few  feats  in  the 
diurtb. 

Ror/es^  Sheep ^  &o.-*There  are  about  x6i  draught  horfes, 
which  may  be  valued  at  ill.  Sterling  each,  one  with  anotber, 
and  a  confideral^le  number  of  black  cattle,  but  few  iheep,  uk 
comparifon  of  the  number  that  might  be  reared,  and  kept  00 
the  hills  belonging*  to  the  parifh.  Mr.  Buff  of  Fettereilo 
has  a  fmall  eftate  in  this  parifh,  called  Motgie^  that  would 
maintain  x  500  black-faced  (heep,  which,  when  fully  fed,  would 
fell  at  il.  js.  each.     Perhaps  the  new  mode  of  fsuming  is 

againfi 


aglmft  the  iacreife  of  tbe  mtniber  of  diia  irecy  viiefiil 


Village^ — Drumlithie  is  u  fmall  village  in  the  parilli,  ly^ 
ing  oo  the  fide  of  the  ro9d  £rbm  Laurence-kirk  to  Stonehayea. 
It  is  imbabited  chieflj  by  trades  people;,  fuch  as  weavexi^ 
flioemakers^  &c.  In  this  village  tbere  id  a  public  hoolcy 
which  is  the  only  one  in  the  pariih. 

jintiquities, -^There  ate  no  antiquities  in  this  parilhy  cx« 
cepting  an  ertA  ftone  in  the  E.  end  of  the  church,  and  m 
ftone  cheft  *,  ivhich  ftaiiids  direSly  above  the  vault,  whereia 

the 

*  The  following  are  tht  infcriptions  on  the  ftone  ;— >*'  Hie  jatent,  io  ^ 
**  boDx  reforreflionts,  Glenbenrii  Comarchi,  infra  defigoati,  et  CecuDdum  cc^g^ 

**  Domina  fingnlis  claffibus  diviii,  ab  anno  730.'* **  Hago  Hafla,  Gennan«% 

**  tiliac  ^nc  perigrinatofi,  ubi  priecUrii  meritis  poftqoaxn  iniSgnis  appanilflei^ 
**  Gcranioda  Dervics,  Glenbenrii  heretrice  nnpta,  fub  hoc  primum  tumnlocsai 
**  CQBJage,  UberiTqne  ihii  obdormit.    Horum  pofterl  contlnuernnt  *in  amnwi 

**  1004."——**  Helena  ultima  Haflamm  fobolet.*' **  Duncanut  Oliphaoce^ 

"  McnuiDecnrio,  interfedit  Donaldo  et  Waltcra  HafTeia,  fratribus  pnediAa 
**  Heleiue,  dara  pngpa  a  casnpo  in  Barry  expuUando  Dano^  Helens  heretsidl 
**  oaptQfy  Glenbervio  fuccedit,  gignitqoe  heredem  Waltenxm,  6iianique  Mai>» 
*■  garetam,  cmn  agris,  nune  ArbuUmah  defignatii«    Ortiit  inde;  eft  Robertus,  « 

^  prefente  vicecomes  jfecundaa  de  eodem  nomine  princeps.** '"  Walterat 

«*  dttzit  nxorem  Matildam  Sinelli  Angufiae  than  ifiliam.  Oibert««,  horum  fiS- 
'*  na»  JEgidiam  Hay,  Arrollii  filiam,  militiae  fiudena,  cum  Godfredo  BnHoiM 
"  in  Syriam  perrexit,  relifta  filia  unigenita  heretrice,  in  praelio  occifus.  Kc^ibi 
**  1057,  Jacobo  Malviil.Hungaria nobili  orto, cui peperit  filium  Hugonem, ina* 
**  trimonio  Gerardi  Macpendarii,  Memii  thani,  fills,  datum.  Horum  poAcn 
**  continutrunt  in  annum  1440.**——"  Militi,  filio  fecundo  Archibald!  Coikii 
<*  Anguiiae,  Tulgo  BiiUtbcCat^  Gulielmo  Duglafio,  a  Bred  wood,  Jacobum  pafi> 
**  rem  heretricis  a  Glcnbervy,  nupts,  EliiabeU  Klalvil,  nupta  Johannl  Affle3^ 
*  de  eodem  peperit." 

Infcription  on  the  head  of  the  cheft : 

'*  Hie  jacet  vir  illuftriiTmiuiy  Gulielmui  Duglafiuf,  Angufix  comea,  primw 

«*  Glenber^ 


454  SjaijfiUai  Jctount 

.  the  bxoSljf  who  wet e  fermeffij  proprietors  of  GleDbeH^ii^  ait 

buried ;  and  which,  from  the  infcriptions  they  contain,  maf 
be  confidered  as  fuch. 


**  Gkabenrii  comirchoi,  qui  diAo  conuCatui  hcredlcario  yskt  faccefSt :  ObSe 
**  kaldid.  Jalii,  inno  Salatki  1591 ;  aeUdi  foe  59/*_«<  Hie  jacet  fflafrriftng 
^^  fiBiniM,  Doauaa  JSgidia  Ofahain.  prsfiai  comitn  mar.  qns  am  4oaiiab 
*■  cmn  iplb  coojuntftifluiie  vixiflety  «c  vidiM  marito  et  fibit  hoc 
"  pofttillec    Obitt    iniio  sutu— Die,  amio  Dofnial'* 


UHVLs 


NUMBER    XXXVII. 
PARISH    OF   KEIG. 

(OauMiy  and  Synod  rf  Abtrditn^^PreJbytery  of  jUf^rd^ 
fy  the  Rev.  Mr.  Alexavber  Saf  ith,  Mhi/i^* 


Siiuatiottf  Extent^  Snrfaa^  and  Soit, 

THIS  pariih  is  divided  on  the  N.  and  £•  bj  high  hills, 
from  the  pariihes  of  M onymufk,  Oyne,  Premnaj  and 
Leflj.  It  is  in  form  fomewhat  irregular,  but  compad ;  th^ 
inhabited  part  of  it  extending  from  the  church,  in  all  direc- 
tions, from  It  to  2  miles.  Bj  furv^js  made  of  the  different 
cftates,  it  contains  1704  acres  arable,  and  43 z  acres  pafture 
ground,  befides  a  coniiderablc  extent  of  hills  and  moor,  and 
360  acres  in  wood,  moftlj  natural.  As  the  arable  ground 
lies  partly  on  the  declivities  of  hills,  and  partly  in  a  flat 
country,  interfered  bj  the  river  Don,  the  foil  is  variouSj, 
and  the  furface  unequal.  The  hills  are  moftlj  covered  with 
)ieath,  and  afford  tolerable  pafture  for  flicep  and  black  cattle, 
pf  a  ImaU  breed,  ^ 


45^  StatlftiC4l  Account 

CUmaie  and  Difeafes. — The  country  is  inland,  and  coofidef- 
■ibiy  abore  the  level  of  the  fea.  The  winters,  therefore^  are 
often  prettj  fevere,  and  the  work  of  the  fprxng  is  fometimes 
retarded  bj  the  long  continuance  of  firoft  and  fnow  \  yet  the 
Itarveft  is  not  later  here  than  in  moft  other  parts  of  the  txxaa- 
tj*  Owing  to  the  vicinity  of  high  hills,  thunder,  and  partial 
Aowers  of  rain,  are  pretty  frequent  in  fummer.  Fogs  are 
c&en  feen  reding  upon  the  river,  and  fome  part  of  the  low 
grounds,  in  the  nights  of  Juiy  and  Auguft;  the  oom,  bow- 
ever,  if  fowed  in  proper  feafon,  is  Jddom  materially  injured 
by  firoft  or  mildews.  The  dinute  u  certainly  very  &vour« 
phfe  to  the  humati  oonftitution.  No  epidenuoil  diftemper, 
^oepting  the  fmall  pox  and  xneafles,  has  been  known  §or 
many  years.  The  influenza  was  not  communicated  to  others, 
by  thofe  who  had  caught  it  in  Aberdeen.  The  people  are,  ia 
general,  healthy;  and  neither  rheumatic  nor  bowel  complaints 
^e  frequent,  though  their  honfes  are  often  damp  and  infof- 
Sdent,  and,  in  fome  feafons,  fuel  (carce  and  bad.  The  fcro- 
^mla  may  perhaps  be  reckoned  the  moft  common  diftemper  i 
and,  when  pulmonary  or  hypochondriacal  afiedions  occar^thefe 
iDomplaints  af  e  generally  conneded  with  a  fcrophulous  taint 
in  the  blood.  The  aiUftance  of  a  phyfician  is  feldom  aiked, 
till  the  cafe  is  defperate.  In  all  inward  diforders,  whiiky  or 
black  beer  are  the  common  prefcriptions.  In  cutaneous  erup- 
tions^ (which  are  much  lefs  common,  and  confidered  as  more 
difgraceful  than  formerly),  recourfe  is  too  frequently  had  to 
mercurial  belts  an4  ointments,  whi^h  can  be  got  in  moft  coun- 
try (hops.  The  confequences  are  often  fatal.  The  country 
people  are  leis  relu£hint  than  former^,  to  go  as  patients  to  the 
Infirmary  of  Aberdeen,  where  they  find  themfelves  treated 
with  much  kindnefs  and  attention. 

State  of  Property^  Scc-^T^e  Duke  of  Gordon  is  fi^rior 

3  of 


^  ^"g'  457 

of  the  whole  lands  hi  thil  diflfift;  Thf ee  of  die  6  eftaties  xa' 
the  pfltiflihave  changed  proiffifetors  within  thefe  8  years,  an* 
hare  fold  at  30  years  purchafe  or  upi^ards.  In  the  courle  of 
10  jearsy  moft  of  th^  fanns  have  alfo  changed  theif  pdStSors. 
For-fome  time  paft  land  has  rifen  in  value.  Putacbiey  the 
feat  of  the  fkmfly  of  F<nrbe5,  lies  in  this  piarijlk  Th«  houfe 
was  btiilt  in  173  x.  It  comttiandS  a  ver/  pleafatff  view  of  the 
Valley  of  AUbrd,  of  the  windings  of  the  river  Donj  and'of 
Ibveral  gentlemens  houftds  and  plantations.  The  buildings^ 
policy,  and  &rm  ha^e  been  ktely  much  improved  and  enlarged*. 
Adjacent  to  it,  th^e  i^  a  n'atural  wood  of  confiderabie  extent, 
which  contains  trees  of  xhoft  of  the  kindf  coMmon  in  the 
North  of  Scotland,  and  produces  10  or  12  kinds  of  wild 
fruit.  Roes  ate  alwa^  t9-  be  found  in  it,  and  red  and  fallow 
deer  often  frequent  it; 

PoptJationi  &.c.-^The  population  has  varied  confiderably 
at  different  periods  \  but  has  greatly  decreafed  within  thefe 
lad  x6  yeai-s,  as  wiU  appear  from  the  following  table. 

STATXSrWAt  ITabLE  of  the  Pari/b  q/  Keiv. 

NadCfovbin  1777,  •  ^15  Afist^Saea.     MaU,    Fem.  .    Trial 

Ditto,  tt  retnnied  to  Dr.  Wcb'fter  Under  7  yean.  -  33  -    26    -      $9 

m  1755,  -  -         499        AboTC  7 195  -  %%i    -    416 

Increaie  in  %%  retri,      -      t|6  In  all,     •    az8     247         475 
Population  tnMij  1791*  -  A1S 

Decrcftfe  in  ts  years*,     -    S40  Boufu 

-—  inhabited  by  niarried  pairt,     -     79 

TvftA  decrealB  in  37  yean,     S4  ■■            widowers,         -         9 

Vol.  XI.  jKf  lahaUied 

*  This  UntaSi  haa  Mutk  owlogpanly  to  ihe  increafe  of  ifada  aad  ina&»- 
lidtem  at  Aberdeen,  and  partly  to  the  failare  of  the  cropi  in  1782  and  1783, 
hot  chiefly  to  peculiar  and  tevporary  caufet,  not  likely  again  to  recor. 


45  ^  Statifttcal.  Account 

Inhafaittd  by  mvkmt^         •         \s 

bwhdor^         -         8  poor  on  the  rail, 

'  noaurried  womeoy      6  ^— -  proprieton  rcfidenc. 

— ^  _^  ditto  ftoD^tfident, 

Toul  number  of  bottfei,      xx;  — «  Epilbopdini% 


A^oiii>rHrf>'iii,Jte.  mcaibmortlitEftablilh. 

No.  of  ftopke^fln^            -  s                    .  cd  Cbnrcb,         -  464 

■  I    miUerf,  -  -  4 

~— hawkers,  -  -  X  CSmXt,  &c 

J^ tailon,                -  3                 ■  hoffet,          •         -  14! 

wiiftfon,                -  3                ■  »cow%          -        .  -  ft04 

ihocmalwf%            -  4                  q»en»te.                 -  406 

■  fqyare  irrigiiti,         -  x                 ^  flieep,         -          -  X%%/^ 
-  bdancfly         •          -  X                 ■pioogfai,         -          -^  47 

— —  iankeepen,              -  X              ■      ciiti,           -            -  j» 

■  ■■  ■ ,  mfaiflett,              -  X  <—-<-' pain  of  OMby          -  11 

Female  Employments,  &c— Knitting  ftockings  for  the  Aber- 
deen manufa&ures  is  the  principal  occupation  of  die  women. 
Half  a  crown  weekly  may  be  earned  bj  a  veiy  good  hand  i 
and  it  is  fuppofed  that  a  ftim,  equal  to  two  thirds  of  the  land 
rent,  is  annually  gained  in  this  way.  As  a  lint  mill  has 
been  lately  ere&ed  in  a  neighbouring  parilh,  it  is  probaUe 
that  another  mjioufa&ire  will  be  gradually  introduced. 

jigriculiure^  Produce^  Sec. — ^Excepting  the  few  mechanics 
xnentioned  in  the  table,  the  men  are  chiefly  employed  in 
agriculture.  Improvements  in  that  branch,  however,  are 
yet  in  their  infancy.  Few  of  the  tenants  fow  grafs  feeds,  or 
nufe  more  trunips  or  potatoes  than  are  neceflary  for  the  pot. 
The  general  mode  of  culture  is  that  which  has  already  been 
repeatedly  related,  in  the  accounts  of  feveral  parifhes  in  the 
N.  of  Scotland.  Bear,  or  bigg,  with  dung,  and  afterwards 
^  frops  of  oflts^  fometijliea^  mixed  with  rye^  is  the  oommoa 

loiatioQ 


^f  ^«ir-  459 

rotarion  upon  infield.  The  outfield,  after  producing  3  or 
4  crops  of  oats,  is  left  nnplowed  3,  4,  or  5  years  more.  IW 
Ttdges  of  both  Out  and  InJUld  are  generally  very  broad,  and 
not  vety  ftraigbt*  They  are  often  very  much  raifed  in  the 
middle,  and  baulks-  left  betwixt  them  without  any  apparent 
neceffity.  There  are  fome  farms  of  confiderable  extent.  The 
reft  are  £aidl ;  and  the  horfes  and  cattle  of  two  neighbouring 
tenants  are  often  joined  in  one  i^ongh.  The  number  cf 
idoughs  is  47,  which  are  drawn  by  88  horfes^  87  cowi,  and 
153  oxiu  and  young  cattle.  Creels  (or  b^ikets)  are  ftill  ufed 
for  carrying  dung  and  fad  on  the  fides  of  harfes.  Where 
there  ar^  neither  green  crops,  hay,  indofures,  nor  winter 
herding,  cattle  and  flieep  muft  fare  very  poorly  for  a  confir 
derable  part  of  the  year.  The  greater  part  of  the  flieep  her 
long  to  the  pefiefibrs  of  crjoftts  and  pendicles  \  and  they  are  left, 
for  one  half  of  the  year,  to  wander,  during  the  day,  in  fmaH 
parcels  of  froqi  10  tp  40.  They  are  therefore  Bmch  more 
detrimental  to  the  neighbours,  than  advantageous  to  their 
owners.  It  is  fuppofed,  howejrer,  that  this  pariib  commands 
hill  pafture  fi>r  fheep^  ^o  the  extent  of  at  lei^  .2000  acres* 

Tarm^Riuts^JVagis^  £cc. — ^The  rent  of  the  infield  ground 
is  from  lis.  to  21s.;  of  outfield,  from  as.  to  5s.  per  acre. 
The  rent  is  paid  partly  in  money,  and  partly  in  grain,  cn£- 
toms,  fervices,  an4  mill  multures.  The  wages  of  men  fer- 
f  ants  4re  from  4I.  los.  to  61.  los.,  or  7I.;— ^f  women  ferr 
vants,  from  2!.  to  3I.  per  annum ; — of  d^y  labourers,  6d. 
with  maintainance.  There  are  few  day-labourers,  as  it  is  only 
at  fome  feafons  of  the  year  that  they  could  find  employment 
^om  the  farmers.  Reapers  are  hired  for  the  harveft,  the 
^en  at  2I.  and  the  women  at  il. 

|{oAJ!r.-^Abcrdeen  is  the  neareft  fea  port,  bebg  25!.  miles 
3  M  2  diftant. 


460  Statifikul  Account 

diftint*  The  tpads  are  madep  and  kept  10  repair,  by  tbe  fti^ 
tate  labour  ;  but  the  landholders,  in  this  and  other  |wirifflint 
in  the  neighbourhood,  have  latdj  fuhfcnbed  ditfercnt  pro- 
portions of  the  valued  rents  of  their  eftates^  for  the  puzpofe 
of  making  Come  miles  of  road  in  a  new  tmft  to  Aberdeen. 

Ctmrcbf  Scbool^  and  Poor.— The  Crown  is  patron.  Tbe 
ftipendy  incloding  conunanion  element  monqr,  is  55L  69.  8d^ 
a  chalders  meal,  and  i  chalder  bear.  The  temd  viftual,  paid 
from  lands  in  this  pariih  to  Monyomfl^,  amounts  to  aa  bolls 
of  meal-i— The  ibhoolmailer's  falarj  is  100  merks  Sootch. 
The  number  of  children,  who  attend  the  tphool,  is  from  10 
•CO  30 — Befides  die  poor  <m  tbe  r(dl,  who,  for  feveral  years 
paft,  have  not  exceeded  ro,  others  have  been  affifted  occafioo- 
ally.  The  pariih  funds,  at  pre£mt,  are  3I.  los*  per  annum, 
lor  intereft  of  money  lent.  The  animal  colleftioas,  gcc  may 
amount  to,  from  5L  to  Bl.  Till  lately,  die  poor  were  moxe 
numerous,  and  the  pariih  funds  lels  confiderable  \  but  no  per- 
fon,  belonging  to  this-  parifli,  has  begged  for  25  years  paft. 
The  pei^le,  in  general,  are  fufficiendy,  attentive  and  ai&Aing  I 
to  their  neighbours,  when  in  want  or  diftrefs.  The  refiding 
•bericors  are  remarkably  £b  j  and  their  attention  and  affiftance 
are  not  cMfined  to  their  own  eftates. 


NUM- 


NUMBER    XXXVIII. 

PARISH  OF  EDDERTOWN. 

fJOouHty  and  Synod  of  Roft—Pnjbyterj  of  Itain.) 

By  the  Rev.  ^r.  AUXA^PU  MuMRO,  Mini/In'^ 


Name,  SUuatiottf  and  ExtifiK 

THE  jMrlQi  of  Edbkrtowk  certamlj  derives  its  name 
£rom  its  fituadon^  belnj  on  all  fides,  excepting  the  N., 
^rroanded  hj  hills  and  AounfaiDs.  It  is  pronounced  Edtr^ 
douM  in  Gaelic,  and  furely  ought  to  be  written  fo  in  Engliih. 
The  pariib  is  fituated  in  that  part  of  the  county  of  Rois,  call- 
ed £a|^  Kab*  It  is  about  zo  miles  Jn  length,  and  7  in 
breadth,  and  the  Frith  of  Tain  walhes  its  ooaft  on  the  N« 

RhmUift  Soil^  Cultivation^  Sec. — There  are  no  rivers  of 
aote,  but  feveral  IknaH  rivulets,  known  by  the  appdlation  of 
^urnsi  which,  when  fwelled  with  rainy  weather,  being  with- 
out  bridges,  greatly  interrupt  the  traveller.  Here  there  is  a 
a  variety  of  foils,  generally  deep  and  rich  \  but  the  moifture 

falling 


4(»  StatiJHcal  Jccwnt 

faSLmg  ftom  tbc  furrounding  hills  makes  the  bottom  fsoUi^  and 
occafions  late  harvefts.  The  climate  is  the  fame  widi  that  of 
At  pariflies  arotmd  it*  There  are  no  mttnral  woods,  but 
Sir  Charles  Rofs  of  Brinagown,  and  Mr.  M'Leod  of  CadboO, 
bave  fome  hundred  acres  planted  with  Scotdi  firs. 

Cattle^  Cuhivation^  and  Prodvce. — ^Tkere  are  about    zoc9 
Uack  cattle  in  tl^e  parifii.     There  are  no  Iheep  walks  ;  bat 
as  every  tenant  and  cottager  rears  i^  few  (beepy  the  number 
apon  the  whole  muft  be  confiderable.    As  there  are  no  im« 
provements  in  huibandrj,  the  time  and  attention  of  the  peo* 
pie  is  taken  up  in  the  managemet^t  of  the  fiirms,  which  re- 
ipire  many  hands,  and  occupy  many  cattle,  their  hoifcs  and 
«zen  being  of  a  fmall  fize.     Thofe  of  Mr.  Hu^  Scobie  of 
Ardmore,  howeyer/  muft  be  excepted.     This  gentleman  la* 
hours  fuccefsfully  aoeofding  to  the  new  fyftem»  and  was  lata- 
ly  at  the  expence  of  bringing  a  manure,  known  by  |he  name 
titjhittf  Jandy   from  the  ifland  of  Tanara,  near  UUapocd, 
through  tlie  Pentland  Frith,  to  his  farm  ^t  Ardmore.     His 
labour  and  expence  are  already  moft  amply  repaid.    His  fiock 
of  cattle  is  large,  and  of  the  beft  quality,  the  place  giving 
him  every  advantage  for  thefe  purpofes.  In  fummer  he  abounds 
with  grafs,  aiid  in  winter  he  has  the  beft  of  covering,  and  a 
good  fhore.    He  likewife  rears  large  quantities  of  wheat,  bar- 
Icy,  oats^  beans,  peafe,  potatoes,  turnips,  and  artificial  grafs. 
The  farm  of  EaJter^Feam^  for  which,  alfout  40  years  ago,  a 
tenant  could  not  be  found  at  the  rent  of  aiL,  is  b  improve^ 
by  watering,  that  it  lets  now  at  more  than  triple  that  funu 

Inchfunsy  Fuet^  \3c. — ^This  pariflt  is  very  capable  of  im« 
provement,  having  great  trafts  of  moors,  gently  floping,  with 
day  and  gravelly  bottoms  *•    The  grounds  inclofed  by  Sir 

John 

*  fincc  the  yeir  1745,  there  btn  bcea  very  coofiikrabfe  addititiiiB  to  the 

arahic 


.  4^/  Eddertawiii  j^6j 

Joliif  Rols,  iozmtvly  barr«n  moor,  axe  now  rkhlj  toveeea 
^w^ith  barkjy  oats,  turnips,  potatoes,  clover  and  rje-grab.  The 
-ivhole  inclofure  coniifts  of  3^0  Scotch  acres,  of  a  circular 
form,  and  on  the  outfide  kxf  the  circle  is  a  deep  belting  of  firs, 
^£b,  and  other  foreft  timbers.  Hie  death  of  that  geademaa 
£eeins  to  have  put  a  ftop  to  unj  more  of  the  ground  being 
Aibdivided  and  turned  into  com  land.  Few  pariihes  have 
more  the  means  of  improvement  within  themfelves ;  the  foil  <£ 
the  moors  is  good  j  there  is  great  abundance  of  turf  f  and  peat^ 
and  the  burn  of  Daan,  which  is  prettj  centrical,  abounds 
nvith  lime.  There  are  great  quantities  of  Tea  weed,  commonlj 
<:alled  fiea  ware,  on  all  our  ihores. 

PaftUatiofU'^^Tht  population  of  this  pariih  is  upon  the  in* 
ctca£t» 

The  prefent  nmnber  of  fouls,  of  all  ages,  is  about  -  2oco 
The  return  to  Dr.  Webfter^  in  17559  was  onlj       -*        7S0 

Increafe,        •         -         -         -         -        ^20 

Rftus 

anlk  ground  of  thii  parifli,  by  cottagers  fettling  in  tlhefe  moon.  The  kte 
AiaunX  Sir  Jobm  Ross  of  Bilnagowaff,  iockfed  and  fiibdinded^  with  ej^el* 
lest  AoM  diiket,  about  60  acrci. 

f  H«re  2ft  may  not  be  infropcr  to  cake  ootke  of  ttg  Dutcb  v/ty  ifprtpsnmg 
Toav.  Aiibon  aa  the  Datch  have  fown  their  ffring  com,  they  begin  to  pre- 
pare the  torf  lor  winter  fud.  They  firil  take  off  the  green  fix! ;  they  then* 
pour  water  on  the  turf  monld,  and  dig  it  out,  by  littli  and  little,  dll  they  reach 
fandy  foih  The  hole  it  made  flopping,  that  a  horfe  and  cart  msy  g^  intO'itr 
Thii  mud  it  carted  out  on  a  field ;  then  fpread  with  a  fpade,  to  3  or  4  iachca 
thicks  then  cut  croft  ways.  Thofe  who  wifli  to  have  their  turf  ftiil  harder, 
fijueele  the  mud,  whilft  fo£t,  into  round  fonnt,  refembling  loavet,  or  form  tbcna 
in  (hapes  like  brick  making,  and  then  let  them  dry  in  tha  fields.'  When  the 
pieces  of  turf  are  become  a  little  hard,  they  are  laid  in  heaps,  that  they  m;iy 
dry,  and  be  aaore  elSeAnaUy  flidtered  firom  iido#  Firom  thb.  they  ate  carntad- 
homa,  and  put  under  a  roof.  The  turf  foil  is  cither  browui  itd|  or  bJack|  but 
mift  ao(  be  mizad  with  (and  or  clay. 


4^4  iStoR^cid  Accimni 

Rents  and  Profrietors.^^Tht  grofs  rent  of  ^e  iinifli  is 
about  650  bolls  of  gnun,  and  500!.  Sterling  in  m&mcy.  The 
tent  is  fluAaating;  but  is  daal^  increafing.  The  heritors  are. 
Sir  Charles  Rofs  of  Balnagown,  Mr.  M^Leod  of  GaAwfl, 
Mr;  M^en£ie  of  Ardrofs,  Mr.  John  Roibertfon  mkrAmxt  in 
6lafgow,  and  Mr.  Rb£i  of  K^e.  None  of  tbefe  geridemes 
refide  in  the  pariflf. 

Church  and  School.'^Tht  Chnrdi  is  fitnated  mtliin  a  mfle 
of  the  eaftem  extremity  of  this  {fttrifli.  Both  cfanrdiaad 
xnanfe  are  old,  aind  ftand  mach  in  need  of  repairs.  The  ffi« 
pend  is  lao  boUs  of  grain,  and  j^*  <4^-  ^  Sterfing^  for 
vicarage  and  communion  elements.  All  the  parifliioncrs  are 
in  communion  with  the  church  of  Scotland.  Hie  patent  is 
Capt.  Kenneth  M^enzie  of  Cromart7.<^-There  is  a  parodnsl 
Ibhool.  The  falarj  is  fo  very  fauJl,  that  none  ofei  lie  got  to 
teach  it,  who  is  at  all  maftef  of  any  of  the  letmed  lan- 
guages. However^  the  cultivation  of  the  Engliih  language 
is  increafing. 

Emptoytmmis  amd  CharaSer.-^We  have  no  eftaUiihed  nu* 
ftufsAures.;  but  tbe  women  and  girls  are  often  employed  in 
fpinning,  what  in  this  country  we  CTlLfaBmy  ynm^  from  hnt; 
and  the  beft  fpinners  among  them,  with  difficulty,  earn  a4<i. 
per  day.  The  people  fobfift  chieffy  by  agricnlture,  and  like 
their  neighbours,  are  of  a  mixt  chara&er.  They  are  very  in- 
duftrious ;  and,  upon  the  whole^  are  very  regular  in  attend- 
ing divine  oidinanees. 

^/7ff;»tViV/,  &c— -There  is  a  large  plain,  about  half  a  mile 
to  the  W.  of  .the  church,  and  in  circumference  about  3  miles, 
where  there  «are  evident  marks  of  an  encampment.    Tiadi- 

tioa 


4oil  b^Sji  diat  \  bfl^e  was  fought  here  agaiaft  the  Danes  *. 
Near  to  this  there  is  a  large  circle  of  earth,  flat  in  the  top. 
Had  raifed  a]iH>ut  1  fe^t  above  the  lerel  of  the  ground  around  it. 
it«  In  the  centre  of  this  circle,  there  is  a  large  obelif^  above  lo 
feet  high  above  the  ground.  No  tool  feems  to  have  been  enw 
ployed  in  forming  it,  though  there  are  fome  rude  figures  ftill 
difcemible,  the  largeft  of  a  triangular  form,  with  fraall  circles 
fufpended  from  it.  Here  the  Prince  of  Denmark,  who  com- 
manded his  countrymen,  is  faid  to  be  interred.  The  plain  is 
called  Carriblair}  and  the  village,  immediately  to  the  S.  of 
it,  is  to  this  day  dalled  Balliocb^  or  PhyfictatCs  Town,  where, 
it  is  faid,  the  wounded  were  lodged  and  taken  care  off.  There 
is  only  one  other  piece  of  antiquity,  that  merits  attention,  which 
is  Dunaii/kagf  about  4  miles  from  the  church,  ,by  the  fea  fide. 
It  is  one  of  thefe  circular  buildings,  called  by  fome  cairns^  by 
Others  ifocmi*  The  (tones  are  of  a  very  large  fize,  and  laid 
very  regularly  and  dofe.  To  the  3.  W.  it  is  ftill  about  12 
feet  high,  and  7,  where  it  is  lowed  t«  The  entry  is  to  the 
S.;  and  the  middle  of  the  wall,  which  makes  the  circle,  hi^ 
Vol.  XI.  3  N  open. 


*  There  are  erident  marlu,  indeed,  of  a  battle,  and  a  rery  bloody  one,  as 
tiiere  aro  ftiU  many  heapt  to  be  fcen,  under  whieh  the  flain  had  been  interred. 
One  of  thefe,  about  xo  yean  ago,  was  levelled  by  the  fchoolmater ;  and,  whei^ 
trenching  it,  along  with  the  gronnd  around  it,  his  fpade  ftruck  againft  a  coffin. 
He  fooa  found  five  of  fhem,  in  which  there  were  human  flceletons  perfedly  en- 
tire, ekcepting  one  that  wanted  the  head.  The  coffins  were  made  of  fir,  and 
ia  the  higheft  |ireferrati«||.  By  the  ikeletons  it  would  appear,  that  the  fii^e  of 
the  bodies  was  about  5  feet  xo  indies. 

t  Offiaa  menticms  the  battle  of  Garros  in.  one  of  the  detached  pieces  annexe^ 
lo  Fingal,  and  where  he  himfelf  commanded,  and  worded  the  Danes.  Pjerhaps 
this  may  have  been  the  fccoe  of  a^ionv  CarriUair,  in  Gaelic,  fignifying  ih  httttt 
9/  Csrrt. 

f  In  the  memory  of  ou^ny  ftill  lining,  it  wm  m^tt  than  doqble  iu  |relent 

V  ^f*Sh^. 


466  Statifiical  Account 

open,  witf^  a  ftair  on  each  fide  of  the  door;  The  onlj  re- 
piarkable  natural  curiofity,  is  a  water  fall,  over  which  the 
fmall  river  Grugag,  in  the  wefter  end  of  the  parflh,  Ms, 
which  is  thought  to  he  ahout  100  jards  of  pe^pendicokr 
height. 


jbdg^t.    About  thdc  circUi  that  is  Gatk  a  ^npetf  loi  <]>fiakD$f  ibu  fkc  aotbof 
^  thit  artid^  IhaU  i|^  TCBt|^«  t9  ac^^ 


VVV' 


of  Huntly*  i^l^y 

TOWN  ATJD  PARISH  OF  HUNTlY. 


(County   of  Aberdnn^-M^ynod  of  Moruf^'^^fr^Jkytitjf  if 
SiratUogie} 


Mff  the  RUf.  Mr,  Kol|£KT  IkkeI,  Minifin^ 


£riSiOft  and  Namiu 

lJtTfni.Y,  li^htch  is  the  itiodefm  6afiie  6^  titt  ^itiiii  tdn-a 
fifta  of  2  divifiofiSy  the  td^n  and  the  countiy  part*  The( 
ttfwn  bears  hj  mnch  th^  greatei'  proporttonf.  The  p%viSh  coa« 
fifted,  formerly,  of  2  diftiDft  parifbes,  both  ferved  by  otle  parw 
fim.  The  name  of  the  ofie  was  Damtendfif  which  fignifietf 
/i&#  iottom  qftbe  bill;  and  atcotdingly  a^U  the  farm-houfes  ard 
placed  at  the  bottom  of '  the  different  hills  forroundbg  tho 
tillage,  fncOi  As,  Clajhmach,  the  gre;^.he«led  hilt  i  Bin^billg 
or  the  flonj-hill  i  OrdfuU^  or  the  bftttle-hill,  &c.  The  namd 
of  the  other  pariflx,  before  they  were  United,  tn»r  ^inott^  that 
is,  the  gold  or  ydlow-biadid  biU%  and  in  all  public  adterttfe« 
stents  it  is  ftiH  thxts  diftingniihed.— ^Tbefe  •  parHhes  of  I>am« 

3  N  2  Wnaa 


46S  Stati/lical  jiccaw0 

Wnan  and  Kinore  were  united  by  «  decree  of  the  Lotdt  ckf 
Seflion  and  Plantation  of  Kirks,  and  called  the  parifli  of 
HuMTLT,  in  honour  of  the  Duke  of  Gordon**  eldeft  fon  ;  and 
a  place  of  worihip  ereAed,  centrical  to  bodi,  in  the  year  x?!?- 

ExtMtimdRoaJs.^^Th^  eztreou^  of  that  part  of  tha  pariih« 
called  Rinorif  is  dillant  from  the  town  of  Bontly  3  computed 
miles,  over  Tcfy  rough  and  rockj  ground ;  and  to  the  extmnity 
of  the  other,  called  DuvA§ndm^  it  is  alfo  3  oompoted  mkt, 
equally  rough  and  rocky  $  and»  indeed,  in  thofe  parts  wbcte 
the  roads  through  the  pariih  have  been  attempted  to  be  made 
by  fiatute  labour,  as  they  have  hitherto  been  condufiedt  thcj 
ate  often  impaflable. 

Climate^  Difea/es^  \3c. — The  air  of  Huntly  is  fidubrioiu. 
lliere  are  no  diftempers  peculiar  to  this  place,  but  what  ate 
common  to  other  matiafaQuritlg  towns.  Weavers,  and  thofe 
^vrhofe  bufinefs  confines  them  to  low  and  damp  (hops,  may  be 
more  fubjeft  to  afthmatic  and  fcorbutic  complaints,  but  the 
place,  on  the  whole,  is  healthy,  and  the  inhabiunts,  who 
are  in  general  fober  and  induftrious,  live  to  a  good  vftu 
There  are  many  now  living  in  the  pariih  aged  from  70  to  S7; 
and  one  died  a  few  years  ago  aged  90*  But  the  number  of 
al^-^heufes,  and  private  retailers  of  fpiritous  Uquors,  not  only 
becomes  hurtful  to  the  health,  but  veiy  prejudicial  to  tlla 
morals  of  the  lower  dab  of  tradefmen  and  mechanics^ 

Hill,  tic— To  Kioore  there  is  a  hill  called  St.  Mungo^  on 
the  W«  fide  of  which  there  is  a  fpring  ifiutng  from  it,  caUed 
Su  M^fngo^s  Witlf  of  no  medicinal  quality  but  what  aiifes 
frpm  fuperftitious  credulity.  On  the  top  of  the  N.  end,  Acre 
is  a  large  circular  opening,  which^  in  a  rainy  ieafon,  is  full 
of  water,  and  feldom  quite  empty.    In  very  dry  fummers 

foate 


of  Huntiy.  \&^ 

foroe  peats  have  been  got  from  it,  but  of  a  fulphorous  nature. 
Manj  plccei  of  hard  and  porous  AuIFy  refembling  iava^  or  ra- 
ttier the  refufe  of  a  fmith*8  forge,  have  been  found  about  it. 
^ear  to  thb  opening  there  is  a  very  large  ftone,  and  another 
juft  bj  it  of  a  tnuch  lefs  fize,  the  fiiperficies  of  each  ejcaSlj 
correfpondilig  to  the  bther,  as  if  thej  had  faUen  afunder  by 
ibme  extraordinary  cottvulfion.  The  whole  of  this  hill  is 
ftoW  inclofedi  abd  planted  with  trees  of  various  kinds. 

9<Kuii.— The  town  is  placed  in  a  drj  and  healthj  fituatioUi 
futrouoded  with  hills,  but  at  a  convenient  diftance,  all  moft« 
I7  inclofed,  full  of  plantations  of  firs,  elms,  oaks«  birch,  hx. 
It  is  the  feat  of  the  prelbjterj,  and  a  pod  town^  There 
are  a  principal  (treetk  in  the  town  of  Huntlj,  crof&ng  each 
other  at  right  angles,  forming  a  fpacious  fquare,  where  the 
iveeklj  arid  other  markets  are  held.  Here  too  there  was 
once  a  town-houfe  and  a  prifon  ;  but  thej  are  now  demoliih* 
ed.  On  eaeh  fide  of  the  fquare  there  are  many  decent  and 
commodious  dwelling-houfes  ;  and  many  on  the  ftreet  leading 
Xo  it.-— A  fpfrit  of  building  Hill  prevails. 

Riven,  Bridgu^  Millsf  l^c.— Two  pleafant  rivers  run  on 
each  fide  of  it ;  the  Doveron  on  the  W.  and  the  Bogie^  on  the 
£.,  both  uniting  half  a  mile  below  it,  ^here  they  prefeot  a 
delightful  and  romantic  fcene,  and,  thus  uniting,  glide  over  a 
rough  and  rocky  channel,  (haded  with  trees  on  each  fide,  till 
they  fall  into  the  fea  at  Banff,  11  miles  N«  E*  of  Rnntly.  On 
each  of  the  rivers  there  is  a  bridge :  that  over  the  Bogie 
la  modem,  and  has  3  arches,  very  convenient  for  heavy  car* 
riages  to  and  from  Aberdeen^  which  is  34  meafurtd  milea 
diAant ;  and  for  brieging  peats  and  torf  from  the  mofs,  5  miles 
di0ant  The  bame  of  this  river  is  fald  to  be  Gaelic,  and  to 
fignify  fnarJbyJlQxv^mnningviafer,  Tlic  water  is  of  an  excellent 

quality. 


470  Stati/lical  Account 

quality,  and  fit  for  every  purpofe,  particalarly  wbitening  md 
bleaching  doth.    There  are,  accordingly,  feveral  bleachfields 
richly  covered  in  the  bleaching  leafon  with  white  linen  doth, 
to  a  great  value,  thread,  fiockings,  cotton,  &c.     Upoa  this 
water  (which  rifes  in  the  pariib  of  Achlbdore,   8  miles  S.  of 
Hantly,  and  is  increafed  by  the  water  of  Kiriuej  and  JV{//- 
SogU^  with  fome  fmall  butHs),  there  are  feveral   mills  for 
grinding  corn,  barley,   malt,  and  other  grain,  well  occupied 
from  the  adjacent  fruitful  fields.     One  of  thefe,  called  tht 
Mill  of  Huntly^  is  in  this  parifli,  and  is  fupplied  with  water 
from  the  Bogie.— >The  river  Doveron  takes  its  fonrce  in  the 
Cahracb^  I  a  miles  above  Huntly  s  a  little  below  it  meets 
with  a  river  called  tbg  Blaci^water,  and  is  increafed  by  fome 
fmall  bums,  till  it  becomes  very  full  and  rapid  at  the  Kirk  o£ 
Clafs*    Over  the  river  Doveron  there  is  a  bridge  of  x  arch, 
very  victent,   but  very  firong,   built  upon  a  rock ;  and  each 
flone  of  the  arch,  as  far  as  the  river  in  a  flood  may  be  fuppof. 
ed  to  reach,  is  ftrongly  bound  together  with  iron.     Standing 
upon  the  bridge,   one  has  a  mod  ajgreeable  view,   whether  he 
looks  downward  to  the  fpot  where  the  rivers  join,  called  tk 
JnvirSf  or  up  the  river,  gliding  through  fpacious  and  fruitful 
fields  on  each  fide.     It  leads  alfo  to  Huntly  Lodge  through  a 
broad  avenue,  gently  afcending  to  the  Houfe,   (haded  with 
trees  of  various  kinds  *•     The  Doveron  would  be  often  im« 

paffiible. 


*  It  may  not  be  improper  to  ohfiu^,  that,  thongfc,  fo'r  tkoc  launemonal,  the 
water  hai  ktpt  iti  prcfent  courfe,  there  it  ground  to  think  it  has  not  ilways  doce 
to ;  but  that  its  ancient  courfe  had  beeq^  by  a  l^ng  range  of  bank«  now  called 
l£f  Mtjdam  Bratt,  and  terminating  at  a  pla^e  called  iBe  Kiln  Bsrmt^  probably 
from  Hi  having  been  the  place  where  the  ont  houfe*,  ftablea,  bama,  ftc  of  thai 
pobk  family  ftood,  when  they  reiidfed  at  the  caftle,  and  which  have  fi&ce  beea 
detached  to  m  proper  difiance  from  it.  The  old  foondations  are  (UH  to  be  ieen. 
TUi  hog  cUr? ed  bank  ii  now  iadofed  by  a  ditch  and  ihong  hedge,  cpmffwd* 


of  Huntly.  471 

paffable,  were  It  not  for  this  bridge,  by  which  the  roads  on 
the  other  fide  lead,  the  one  to  Portfoy,  10  computed  miles 
diilant  northward;  the  other  to  Keitb,  Fochaberj,  Gordon 
Caftle,  and  the  river  Spej. 

JPj^,.i-.Both  the  Doveron  and  the  Bogie  afford  excellent 
fronts.  Thofe  of  the  Bogie  are  preferable  to  the  others,  froni 
its  muddy  And  clayey  bottom,  and  perhaps  from  the  foft  qua- 
lity of  its  water.  After  a  flood,  many  falmon  are  got;  and  did 
the  proprietors  of  the  falmon-fi(hing,  at  Banff*,  obferve  the  le- 
gal openings  in  their  cruives  or  dikes,  many  more  might  be 
caught,  to  the  great  advantage  of  the  different  heritors* 

jlftii/ra/r.>^Upon  the  banks  of  the  Doveron,  near  its  junc- 
tion with  the  Bogie,  there  was  an  attempt  made,  fome  years 
ago,  to  difcover  a  lead  mine,  and,  after  digging  to  a  confider- 
able  depth,  many  pieces  of  a  black  friable  matter,  like  the 
ore  which  the  lead  pencils  are  made  of,  were  jrot ;  but  the 
work  was  difcontinued.— ^A  lime-flone  quarry  was  happily 
difcovered,  ibme  years  ago,  in' the  S.  W.  end  of  the  pariih, 
but  when  opened,  it  was  found  fo  difficult  to  get  at,  that  it  was 
abandoned,  after  working  to  a  confiderable  depth,— Near  the 
fame  place  there  is  a  kind  of  white  marble,  of  which  the 
author  has  feen  a  horizontal  dial  made,  perfcdly  fmooth  on 

the  furface,  and  ell  the  lines  an4  figures  drawn  quite  clear  an 
OH  ilate, 

jtf^ricuUure.^\n  this  pariffi  there  are  many  excellent  farms, 
rented  from  aol.  to  6ol.,  including  a  certain  proportion  of 
farm  meal|  of  the  heft  quality,  which  the  tenants  are  obliged 

te 

ing  to  the  tarm  of  the  foppofed  ancient  coorfe  of  the  river,  S|^4  plaatejl  wi^l^  a 
variety  of  trees,  different  Ihnibi,  and  cianpt  of  narlieriet,  all  kept  is  good 
^isioa  1^  very  thriving. 


47  2  Statifiical  Account 

to  cMTjr  from  tbe  granarj  at  thtir  own  charge,  and  wkidi  ii 
all  the  fenriee  the  proprietor  requires.  It  would  feeoit  that 
the  country  io  general  had  not  been  dvourahk  for  the  pio- 
duftion  of  barley,  till  of  late  that  the  eredton  of  dilHllerifa 
has  encouraged  farmersi  to  prepare  their  grounds  for  diat 
now  very  TcndiUe  grain*  But  were  farmers  morn  cnoou- 
raged,  by  the  heritors  granting  longer  leafea  than  are  general- 
ly given,  under  certain  re(%idions,  and  oaodes  of  tnapfove- 
ment,  It  would  give  vigour  and  fptrit  to  the  indnftrions  frnn- 
tt.  He  would  be  encouraged  to  improve  hia  knd  to  the 
higheft  degree  of  coltivatton,  of  which  it  waa  capnbk ;  and 
the  face  of  the  country  would  prefent  a  more  beanttfnl  ap* 
pearance,  and  become  more  profitable  to  both  landholder  and 
tenant*  At  prefent,  except  firaightening  the  ridges*  whett 
that  can  be  done,  little  mpre,  in  iu9h  a  ftate,  can,  in  genetil, 
be  looked  for^i  Some  of  the  moft  fubOantial  tenants  have 
ftrong  ploughs  and  good  cattle ;  but  moft  farmera  plow  witk 
poor  horfes,  and  weak  cattle,  yoked  together, 

Co//^»— -<^The  number  of  catde  cannot  be  afcertabed 
Many  dealers  in  that  article,  rent  parks  from  the  neigbboor- 
ing  proprietors,  for  the  fole  purpofe  of  keeping  thrir  ftoekoa 
^and,  for  a  few  days  or  weeks,  till  they  have  opportunity  of 
driving  to  market.— —>This  is  not  a  flieep  country*  The  in* 
clofurcs  and  planting  oblige  the  tenant  to  reduoe  the  nomber 
of  thefe  ufeful  animals,  and  the  few  that  are  in  i^are  poor  and 
fliabby,  and  of  a  comparatively  diminurive  fize;  except  thofe 
wedders  thaf  range  the  hills,  and  are  (eldom  or  never  hoofed, 
•r  foch  as  aire  fed,  and  fold  for  butpher-meat. 

Improvements  and  Produce^  C/r.«-Tbe  village  of  Huntlj 
has  furprlfingly  increafed  within  thefe  50  years,  in  populs* 
Hon  an|}  induftryi  infomuch  tbat^  whezc  all  around  it,  for 

I  fome 


of  Huntfy.  473 

•i«me  diftanoe,  was  formerlj  barren  heath,  fwamps,  or  marfli, 
Cfaere  is  now  fcatcelj  one  uncultivated  fpot  to  be  feen  ;  and 
4>arlej,  oats,  lint,  potatoes,  and  turnips,  are  produced  in  mm 
l»andance,  where  nothing  grew  before.  This  fpirit  of  im- 
provement and  manufa&ure  was  firfl  ii^troduced  bjn  few 
ivho  dealt  in  the  yarn  trade.  From  their  laudable  example, 
9nd  from  oUerviag  the  profits  arifing  fropa  induftry,  othecs 
i¥ere  encouraged ;  and  now  it  is  become  one  of  the  firft  vil« 
lages  in  the  North,  both  in  pobt  of  population  and  manu&o* 
tiires*  Being  fituated  in  the  midft  of  a  large  and  fertile  coun* 
(17,  the  indoftrions  inbabitants  have  a  ready  £|le  far  what 
f hey  bring  lo  mafket,  by  wbiph  many  poor  cottagers  and  fub- 
Ccnanta  are  enabled  to  pay  for  their  fcanty  pQfleffioQs. 

f  rices  of  laii^ur  and  Provifioms* — ^The  advanced  price  of 
all  the  neceflaries  of  life  makes  wages  high  in  proportion. 
The  cpmmon  hire  of  a  ploughman  is  from  7!.  to  81.  yearly, 
of  a  day*labourer  from  8d«  to  lod.  or  is.,  according  to  the 
"work  he  is  hired  for,^  and  his  fkill  in  doing  it.  A  mafon's 
vages  are  is.  gd.  a-day  ;  a  wright's  and  flater^s  the  fame,  when 
the  work  is  not-  undertaken  by  private  bargaIn.-*The  price 
of  provifions,  of  all  kinds,  has  been  greatly  advanced  of  late 
years;  that  of  fiih,  in  pai:tlcular,  has  increafed.  Haddocks, 
•  formerly  fold  for  5d.  or  6d.  the  dozen,  now  fell  for  7d.  pd  •'  and 
even  Cometimes  is.  6d.  the  half  doxen.  The  heft  beef  fells  at 
3id.  and  4d*  the  pound  ;  and  mutton  from  is.  6d.  to  as.  the 
quarter* 

Rent  and  Profrietors^-^Thc  real  rent  of  the  parilh  is 
about  1700L  Sterling,  and  the  valued  rent  about  a6ool. 
Scotch.  JThe  Duke  of  Gordon  is  proprietor  of  the  whole 
pariih,  excepting  a  haugh  of  land  in  the  N.  end  of  Kinore, 
which  belongs  to  Mr.  Gordon  of  Avochy. 

Vox,.  XL  3  O  P<^ukuim^,, 


474  Statlfiical  Account 

Populatiom,^^The  number  of  iohabUants  is  not  ezadly  iC- 
certiinedy  but  old  and  joung*  ia  town  and  couatrj,  maj  he 
lafelj  ftated  at  •  -  -  •  3600 

The  return  to  Dr.  Webfter,  in  X755t  waa  only        -       1900 

There  Is  therefore  an  increafe  of,  at  lead,       -         1700 

•— tt  is  but  of  late,  that  much  attention  was  paid  to  the  iv- 
giftration  of  births  and  burials ;  tnaoj  difientarsi  as  vdl  is 
others,  either  negle&iog,  or  rafufing,  to  in£ert  dieir  cfaildrens 
names  in  the  -regifter  of  baptifms  kept  here ;  and  many  having 
their  burial  places  in  t>ther  pariihes,  the  number  of  deitfas 
cannot  be  ezadlj  known.  Since  the  year  X78S9  howertr, 
thej  ftand  thus: 


MAERIAOES. 

BAPTISMS. 

•UMi 

J  7  86,   there  were 

18 

33 

ao 

•  mQ». 

»7 

49 

18 

X707, 

1788, 

i% 

45 

3« 

1789*  ' 

»4 

30 

4« 

45 

39       . 
48 

3« 
at 

3* 

3« 

ly^O,         ■' 

175)1, 

,792,  : 

ManufaSures  and  ProfyffUm^^^TYiet^  are  employed  in  the 
town  of  Huntly  51  flazdrefiers.  At  an  aTexage,  each  haod 
will  dreb  40  mats  of  flax  in  a  year,  each  mat  weightflg  109 
libs.  £ngli(h,  the  average  value  whereof  will  be  3U  Scerliog 
per  mat,  which  fpins  from  4  to  xa  hanks  per  lib.,  and  will 
be  worth,  when  fpun  into  yam,  7L  t68«  Sterling  per  mat: 

.  The  whole  will  amount  to  16,1141.  Sterling* ^There  are 

likewife  209  weavers,  wh6  will  work  in  a  year,  at  an  aver* 
age,  73,150  yards  of  clofh,  which,  at  as.  per  yard,  will 
amount  to  7315I.  Sterlingi  ezclufive  of  the  weavers  emplojed 

b7 


of  Huntty.  475 

\j  the  maniifadurers  in  Huntlj,  in  different  towns,  and  in 
the  counciy  around. — ^There  is  alfo  a  cotton  mannfaftory  efta« 
bliflied  in  this  place,  but  it  is  jet  in  an  infant  ftate.  There 
are  about  3a  wrights,  including  wheel  and  cart-wrights. 
There  are  alfo  mafons,  blackfoiiths,  tailorsi  &c.  in  propor* 
tion. 

Cbmreh^  C/r.-»>The  churchi  when  firft  erefted,  might  have 
Wen  perhaps  large  enough,  to  contain  more  than,  at  that  dme, 
attended  the  Edablifhed  worfliip,  but  it  cannot  now  hold 
above  3  fourths  of  the  parilh,  though  3  galleries  hare  been 
of  late  erefted.  One  of  thefe  is  diredly  fronting  the  pulpit, 
which,  from  the  narrownefs  of  the  church,  proves  a  very 
great  incumbrance  to  the  fpeaker's  voice,  and  equally  fo  to 
many  of  the  hearers.  The  other  a  galleries  were  ereAed  at 
the  expence  of  the  feffion,  and  the  rent  of  the  feats  annually 
paid  for  the  ufe  of  the  poor.  If  there  had  been  a  church 
erefted  here,  equal  to  the  number  of  inhabitants,  and  fuited 
to  the  high  rank  of  the  patron,  it  would  have  prevented  many 
diflenters  and  fedaries,  and,  what  is  of  greater  confequence, 
would  have  contributed  to  a  more  religious  obfervation  of  the 
Sabbath ;  as  many,  who  cannot  find  room  in  the  church,  either 
go  to  other  places  of  worihip,  ftay  at  home,  or  ftroU  in  the 
fields.— There  are  other  3  places  of  public  worihip,  I  of  the  Se* 
cei&on  (Antiburgher),  i  of  the  Church  of  England,  and  i  of 
Roman  Catholics  ;  but  the  numbers  attending  thefe  are,  not 
increafiog.  The  paftors  of  each,  however,  live  in  mutual 
friendfliip  and  Chriftian  charity.  There  is  no  manfe  proper- 
\j  belonging  to  the  minifter.  There  is  a  glebe,  but  it  lies  at 
fodi  A  diftance  from  the  town,  that  the  prefent  incumbent 
finds  it  more  profitable,  to  let  it  in  leafe  from  year  to  year, 
than  to  cultivate  it.  It  confifts  •f  xo  acres  of  ground,  of  va» 
pau%  qualities,  partly  of  a  hard,   dry,   and  fiuidy  foil,  and 

30a  partly 


47^  Statifiical  Ac$0unt 

partlj  of  a  iMinjr  claj.  The  ftipend  is  looo  metks  Scocchy 
of  whkh  there  are  3  chalders  of  oaumeal,  at  8  ftoae  per  boUv 
and  50  inerks  for  cominiuiioa  elemeoti.  The  Duke  of 

Gordon  is  patron. 

^rioo/r.*— There  is  a  parochial  fchool,  but  it  is  pooilj  en« 
flowed,  the  falarj  being  only  61.  i8s.  lod.,  with  the  perqoi. 
fites,  viz.  6d.  for  each  baptifm,  is.  Ibr  each  marriage,  and  iL 
4S.  5d.  as  fei&on»clerk.  Thefe,  with  the  quarterly  paymeaU 
for  teaching,  (Engliih  rs.  6d.,  for  writing  and  arithiiietic»  as., 
and  for  Latin  as.  6d.)  are  the  whole  of  the  fchoolmafter's  emo- 
lumeots.  There  are  other  private  fchools  here,  of  gtrat  ad- 
vantage both  to  parents  and  children;  nevertbelefs  a  Snndaji 
•r  a  charity  ichool  wauld  be  of  great  ufe. 

Poor.— -The  fund  for  the  fupport  of  the  poor  oonfifts  chiefly 
bf  coUe&ions  from  the  congiegatioo,  which,  at  an  average, 
may  be  from  5s.  to  8».  weekly  1  with  the  intereft  of  1000  merks 
^  mortified  money,  and  fome  lent  out  on  hills,  together  with 
penalties  incurred  by  delinquents,  and  the  rents  of  the  feats 
in  the  a  galleries.  The  feflion  regularly  meet  every  two 
months,  and  diftribute  to  the  poor  on  the  roll,  according  as 
their  neceilities  (from  the  bca  of  their  knowledge  and  infor- 
mation) demand  j  befides  many  interim  diiburrements  for  cof. 
fins,  ifaoes,  clothes,  Sec.  as  occafion  requires.  The  gallery  in  the 
front  being  credcd  at  the  expence  of  the  Society  of  Weavers, 
the  money  arifing  from  it  is  aHotted  to  indemnify  that  ezpence. 
The  inhabitants  in  general  are  of  that  charitable  difpofition,  which 
tends  to  invite  many  poor  people,  and  even  whole  families, 
from  other  parts,  to  refide  among  them.  The  writer  hereof 
has  known  fome  young  fellows,  on  cxtraordbary  emergencies, 
fo  through  the  whole  parilh,  dividing  it  into  particular  dif. 


^  Huntly*  477 

trIAs,  to  each  of  which  ooe  or  two  of  theal  wti  feot,  and 
thus  coUeft  nooey,  meal,  &c.  for  the  immiduue  relief  of  fitch 
poor,  as  age,  iofirmitj,  or  accideatal  misfortUQe,  had  render- 
ed obje&s  of  compaiSoB.  The  Socic^  of  Weavers,  Flax-dref« 
fers,  and  Gardeners,  have  a  box,  to  which  each  aiember  pays 
a  quarterly  contribution,  befides  what  is  paid  on  his  admif- 
fion,  for  the  relief  of  the  poor  widows,  childrent  and  decay* 
cd  ttadefmen  of  their  refpeftive  ibcicties. 

Cqfiti^  &c.— Nigh  to  the  bridge  of  Doveron  flaod  the  remama 
of  Hunify^Casile^  which  fliU  afford  a  finking  proof  of  the 
grandeur  and  hofpitality  of  that  ancient  fiimily  %  though  ond 
part  only  of  the  original  plan  feenis  to  have  been  completed* 
On  the  N.  front  are  the  arms  of  the  fiunily  cut  in  ftone,  with 
the  names  of  the  original  proprietMSt  Gsorox  GoanoK,  £rft 
Marquis  of  Huntly,  and  HxvaiETTA  St£Wa&t,  firft  Marchi* 
ends  of  Huntly,  1601*    Though  they  have  been  expofed  to 
the  boifterous  N*  wind  near  aoc  years,  and  no  care  has  beeft 
taken  to  preferve  them,  from  the  wanton  and  injurious  hands 
of  the  vulgar,  the  artifi's  cbiffel  is  ftrongly  and  diftindly 
marked.    A  fpacious  turnpike  ftair  leads  to  what  has  been 
once  a  very  grand  hall,  and  which  ftill  bears  the  marks  of  its 
former  fplendor  and  magnificence*    Its  length  is  about  43 
feet,  its  breadth  29,  and  itt  height  x6.    There  is  another 
grand  apartment  immediately  over  this,  37  feet  in  length  and 
29  in  breadth.    The  chimneys  of  both  are  highly  ornament- 
ed with  curious  fculpture  of  various  figures,  which,  confider-i 
iog  the  inattention  paid  to  this  once  magnificent  fabric,  are 

fiill 


*  MuKf  people,  ftfll  in  fife,  renember  to  have  feen  a  noge  o(  piflart,  fop- 
poffttog  an  arched  roof,  which  Icemed  to  have  ^0  intended  at  a -cover  for  fach 
at  inclined  to  take  the  ur,  or  a  vteir  of  the  garden  which  lay  before  the  Caftle* 
there  hciBi  a  deor  that  had  kd  to  it,  from  the  npper  hall,  m  a  kTd  with  it 


47S  Staij/tiad  Account 

ftin  ia  a  tol«tIik  ftate  of  pre&rtvlioii,  and  maft  attnd  the 
•Merradoo  of  any  one  who  has  a  tafte  for  ancient  fcolptnre. 
The  thickaefii  of  the  wall  admits  of  leveral  finall  dofets,  and, 
in  the  upper  apartments,  there  are  large  bow  windowsi  a 
little  pngeAed  from  the  fnrface  of  the  wall  frondng  the  S. 
Indeed  moft  of  the  apartments  are  ftiU  in  tokiaUe  preCenra- 
ti<m  i  particalarly  the  ceilings,  which  are  ornamented  with  s 
great  variety  of  paintings^  in  fmall  divifions,  containing  ms- 
ny  emblematical  figures,  with  verfes,  exptcl&ve  of  loms  mo- 
fal  fimtiment,  in  doggerel  rhime.  At  a  little  diftance  from  the 
Caftk.  on  the  N.,  there  are  the  remains  of  Come  works,  which 
feem  to  have  been  intended  for  defence ;  and,  on  the  W.,  a 
large  mound,  which  probably  had  been  coUeAed  firom  the 
•arth  and  rubbiih  dug  £m:  die  foundation  of  the  building,  (sod 
fcr  other  apartments  below,  which  are  all  vaulted),  and  after- 
wards  made  into  its  prefent  form,  fomewhat  reffimbling  a  co- 
sue  figure,  or  rather  a  fugar  loaf  broke  off  near  the  top.  On 
the  avenue  which  leads  to  the  Caftle,  there  are  a  iqaare 
towers,  which  had  defended  the  gateway,  and  whidi  the  pre^ 
lent  incumbent  has  feen  adorned  with  the  arms  of  die  fiunilj, 
cut  out  ia  ftone,  in  the  front  of  the  wall  adjoining  each  tower, 
in  good  repair.  The  hewn  ftone  of  the  windows  and  coraeti 
has  been  taken  out,  and  applied  to  other  more  ignoble  par- 
polea. 


NUM- 


.    •fqarnpck.    ,  479 

NUMBER    XL. 

PARISH    OF    CARNOCK. 

(Cmmty  and  Synod  of  Fife — ^nfbyterj  of  Dumfemdam!) 

By  fhi  Rev.  Mr.  AuxAKOtn  Tbomsok* 


Origin  of  the  Name. 

IT  18  not  known,  when,  either  the  parifb,  or  the  tnllage 
from  which  it  is  denominated,  received  the  name  of 
Camoci.  fiat  it  is  probable,  that  this  happened  at  the  tiaie 
when  the  Gaelic  was  the  prevailing  language  in  the  Lowlanda 
of  Scotland.  Im  that  language,  the  words  Cair^  or  Caim^ 
and  Knotty  (of  which  Camoci  is  fuppofed  to  be  acompoand), 
fignifj  a  Village  c^  CoIbSion  of  Houfei  adjoining  to  afmaU 
hiilf  which  is  very  expreffive  of  its  fitaation.  The  adjoining 
cminenoa  of  Cameil  Hill  feems  to  have  been  the  fpot  where  a 
battle  WM  once  fought,  probably  during  the  time  of  the  Da« 
nifli  invafioa,  ia  1039,  or  1042  *  ;  and  perhaps  derivad  its 
Aama  (Caim^Neil)  from  one  of  the  chieftains  who  fell  on  that 
occafion. 

Si^M9tiont 

•  riABmiMmii  Bifi,  &•#.  /^I.  VI. 


4Se  Statl/Kcal  Jce&ytii 

Situation,  Extettt^  Smrfaee,  and  HUb.—Thh  parifli  is  ficiM 
ttted  in  the  weftern  extremttjr  of  the  connty  of  Fifis.  Its 
form  is  nearly  fqaare^  if  we  except  ui  eiccrelbenoe  containiDg 
die  baronj  of  Pitdennies,  which  terminates  in  the  ▼iUi^  of 
Caimey'UUf  and  extends  the  whole  breadth  of  die  parilk  at 
its  fouthern  extreinitf.  T|ie  Itngdi  a^d  I>reaidi  ads  about  3 
£ngli(h  miles  at  a  medium  f  •  The  groond  is  level  towards 
the  £f  but  has  «  gentle  d[eclivit/  towards  the  S.f  and  is 
bomidcd  on  the  N.  and  N.  £.  hj  fome  hills,  which  terminate 
in  a  precipice,  called  Craig^Lnfcar,  bejond  the  limita  of  the 
pariih.  0(her  hills,  called  tb$  Ct$m9f  iepaiatp  this  parifli 
from  that  of  Saiine.  Moft  of  the  ground  coofifts  of  gentle 
declivities.  The  Campus  Bani  on  the  S.  and  Comet/  Httlt  on 
the  W.  are  confiderable  eminences,  commanding  exteofiva 
profpefts  of  the  Frith  of  Forth,  and  the  coontry  adjacent. 
The  former  has  a  fine  expofnre  tiwards  the  S.,  ooofifting 
moftlj  of  arable  land  gready  improved ;  the  latter  confifts  oi^ 
excellent  paflure* 

SoS^  Producff  Woois^  frc — ^The  foil  is  pardy  black  eardi^ 
and  pardy  clay  or  till*  In  fevcral  places  there  is  a  mixture 
of  gravel  near  the  for&ce  %  but  the  two  firft  fpecies  of  foil 
are  moft  prevalent,  and  the  country  is  of  conference  prettf 
ferule.  The  hills,  except  foch  as  are  in  tillage,  are  in  general 
covered  with  grafs ;  but  the  heath  begins  to  appear  upon  the 
riGog  grounds  tpwards  the  N.  The  ground  produoea  crops 
of  oats,  barley,  peafe^  wheat,  turnips,  and  ibwn  grafs,  in  coi^ 
.fiderable  quantities*  There  is  alfo  natural  grab,  mixed  with 
.fevtcal  herbs,  and  fit  for  pafture,  oa  thofe  grponds,  which 

either 


fThe  fredfe  nomber  of  acres  it  not  afceftatned,  there  being  no  map  q£  tt« 
pariih,  though  it  b  pretty  accurately  delineated  in  SToaia*e  map  of  FifdhiRf 
puhliihed  shoot  the  year  17791  or  17^0. 


ef  Camock.     '  481 

either  are  not  arable,  or  have  not  been  tilled  within  the  me- 
mory of  *inan.  There  are  pretty  confiderable  plantations  of 
wood  on  the  lands  of  Clune  and  Pitdennies,  chiefly  fir,  ivith 
ibme  aib  and  larix  trees  intermixed.  In  Lufcar  Ikan  (or 
Den)  there  are  feveral  pleafant  walks  among  the  trees,  with 
very  romantic  icenery  -,  and  upon  the  banks  of  the  rivulet, 
near  the  village  of  Carnock,  there  are  fome  trees  which  have 
ftood  thefe  50  years,  and  afford  a  refrefliing  (hade  during  th^ 
heat  of  fummer« 

ClimaU  and  Dt/ea/es^^-^The  air  is  rather  damp  in  winter 
and  fpring,  but  in  fummer  it  is  abundantly  falubrious.  £pi* 
demical  diftempers  are  more  rare  in  this,  than  in  Ibme  of  the 
neighbouring  parilhes.  The  mod  common  complaints  are 
coughs  and  rheumatifnis,  which  prevail  mod  in  winter  and 
fpring.  Fevers  and  fluxes  are  rare.  The  fmall-pox  general- 
ly vi£ts  the  pari&  oitce  in  3  or  4  years*  The  4  lad  recurns 
were  in  1780,  1783,  1787,  and  1789,  That  of  1787  was  by 
far  the  mod  fcvere,  when  15  children  out  of  45  died  of  that 
diftemper^;  and  that  of  1789,  the  mod  favourable,  when  only 
tbree  died  out  of  6j ;  and,  of  thefe  3,  one  at  lead  was  in  bad 
health  before.  In  1780  and  1783,  the  medium  of  deaths  was 
from  4  to  6  each  year,  though  a  great  many  had  that  difeafe. 
Inoculation  has  as  yet  made  but  little  pron;rers,  though  the 
prejudices  of  the  common  people,  againd  that  falutary  prac- 
tice, feem  to  be  fubfidinff. 

jtgriculturey  Crops,  Experts^  Sec  ^-The  rotation  of  crops  is 
much  the  fam^  here  as  in  other  parts  of  the  country.  After 
rye-grafs,  oats,  fometimes  repeated,  then  peafe  and  beans,  then 
turnips  or  potatoes,  or  fallow  and  lime,  fuccceded  by  a  crop 
of  wheat.  There  fcems  to  be  a  feveuth  part  of  the  arable 
land  in  fallow  and  turnips,  and  about  a  feventh  part  under 
Vol,  X;.  •    3  P  '         ibwa 


4^2  Statl/iical  Account 

(own  grafs.     The  ploughs  employed  bj  the  farmers  are  the 
common  Scotch  plough  tnd  Smairs  plough.    The  letter  was 
introduced  here  within  thefe  laft  lo  jears*  Wh^n  the  ground 
is  limed,  5  or  6  bolls  of  lime,  mixed  with  dung  or  cooipofi, 
generally  fuffioes  for  an  acre  ;  but  a  much  larger  quantity  is 
found  neceflary  on  land  taken  in  from  moors.    Upon  part  of 
the  ellate  of  Clone,  about  50  bolls  per  acre  were  uied,  when 
it  was  firft  improved*     Inclofnres  haye  made  gasat  progrcfs 
within  the  lad  30  years,  above  four  5ths  of  the  arable  land  be« 
ing  already  inclofed,  and  the  remainder  in  the  near  profped 
of  being  fo«     The  fences  are  partly  Aone  walls   teeibed  with 
lime,  partly  ditches,   with  thorn  hedges  on  the  top,   which 
thrive  pretty  well.     The  quantity  of  ground,  laid  out  under 
the  different  crops,  cannot  be  exaftly  afcertaiocd,  but  the  fol- 
lowing is  nearly  the  average  of  the  arable  land.   Under  clover 
and  rye-grafs  one  jth,  wheat  one  loth,  barley  one  5th,  oats 
pne  4th,  peafe  one  5th,  turnigs  one  xotb,  potatoes  one  8th,  (lax 
one  loth,  and,  in  field  cabbage,  a  few  falls  of  ground  *;  bcfidcs 
about  one  4th  kept  in  pafture.    There  is  no  common,  even  the 
moor  land  being  exa£Uy  divided  among  the  different  proprie- 
tors.    Within  thefe  2  years  there  has  been  mere  than  ufiuJ 
attention  paid  to  the  growth  of  flax,  feveral  acres  being  an- 
pually  laid  out  in  that  way,   by  perfons  who  make  it  their 
bufinefs  to  attend  to  it  during  fummer.     The  producCj  even 
when  the  crop  is  but  indifierent,  is  fully  adequate  to  the  con- 
fumption  of  the  inhabitants.     When  plentiful,  it  is  exported 
in  coaliderable  quantities.    Barley  is  fent  to  Culrofs,  Borrow- 
ftownpefs,  Alloa,  and  Dunfecmline,  where  it  is  manufafiur- 
ed  into  n^alt.    Meal  and  potatoes  are  alfo  fent  to  Dunfenn* 
^ine« 

l^ineralsr- — This  parilh  is  plentifully  fupp|ied  with  coals, 

there 

*  There  is  no  rye  fown  in  the  pvifb,  nor  any  black  oats;  althoDgh  cooiu!(r- 
able  quantities  of  th«  ladtcr  were  fown  lall  century  in  the  N.  £.  part  of  t^e 


of  Carnoctt.  483 

'there  being  at  leaft  5  difTerent  coal  mines  in  it,  belonging  to 
as  many  different  proprietors  ;  yiz.  Sir  John  Halket  of  Pit« 
firran — ^the  Rev.  Dr.  John  Erikine  of  Garnock— Mr.  Mill  of 
Blair—Mr.  Mutter  of  Annfleldt — and  Mr.  Hogg  of  New  Lit 
ton.  There  is  alfo  fome  iron-ftpne  on  the  eftates  of  thefe 
gentlemen.  The  produce  of  the  mines  is  uncertain.  Mr. 
Mutter's  coal  lets  at  1  ool.  a-year,  and  Dr.  Erfkine's  at  40L  Mr. 
Mill's,  which  is  wrought  for  his  own  emolument,  is  fuppofed 
to  produce  from  8ol.  to  lodl.  per  annum.  The  ftone  quar« 
ries  on  the  N.  part  of  Dr.  Erikine^s  eftate  are  of  great  ex- 
tenty  and  eafily  wrought  without  any  tirring*  They  are  fi« 
tuated  within  3  miles  of  the  port  of  Torry,  and  5  of  Lime- 
kilns, where  they  can  be  conveniently  (kipped  for  etporta-^ 
tion.  They  confift  of  5  different  kinds  of  iione,  one  of  a 
bluiih  black  colour,  with  a  fine  grriif  capable  of  receiving  tt 
poli(h  like  marble^  This  ftone  will  ftand  the  fire,  and  thd 
longer  it  is  expofed,  it  becomes  the  more  durable,  and  con* 
trads  the  blacker  hue«  The  feeond  is  a  white  fiene,  of  a  fine 
fmall  greeif  foft  when  firil  raifed  from  the  quarry,  btft  gra- 
dlually  hardening  afterwards.  Though,  to  appear ancoi  not 
very  durable,  it  wiihftands  the  ravages  of  rain  and  tempeft. 
Stones  of  both  thefe  fpecies  have  been  dug  up,  24  feet  long 
and  5  or  6  broad  i  and,  it  is  not  doubted,  they  might  be  raif- 
cd  of  far  greater  dimenfions.  The  third  is  of  a  browniih  co« 
lour  and  a  harder  quality  than  the  fecomd^  well  calculated  fSc 
building  houfes,  2&c.  Some  of  this  ki^d.have  beed  raifed  7 
or  8  feet  long.  They  take  a  fine  polifii.  Double  the  quan- 
tity of  ftones  can  be  quarried  here,  in  the  fame  fpace  of  time^ 
that  can  be  done  in  any  of  the  other  quarries  in  the  country, 

Sf  rings  and  Rivukts.-^Thtrt  are  a  few  mfneral  fprings  in 
the  parifh,  chiefly  of  the  chalybeate  kipdi  but  they  are  littlo 

3  P  a  attesd^d 

3 


4S4  Statiflical  Account 

attended  to.  There  are  no  lakes  of  tny  magnttode,  bnt  a  few 
pooh,  called  dams^  f  uch  as,  Ronbtad  Dam,  Camock  Dam,  Car- 
neil  Dam,  iSc.  The  firft  and  laft  of  thefe  furnifli  the  leads  of 
the  mill  of  Carnock.  There  arc  3  rivulets,  viz.  the  Cam^k 
Burn  or  Biair  Uurn^  the  Camps  Burn^  and  the  Burm  of  Pii- 
denies  or  Cairny^bilL  They  all  ran  from  E.  to  W.,  suhI,  afier 
.  joining  feveral  other  fmall  ftteams,  difchargc  themfelves  into 
the  Frith  of  Forth  beyond  the  bounds  of  the  pariflu  Tkcrc 
is  a  fourth  on  the  northern  boundary,  which  runs  weftward 
ind  afterwards  to  the  S.,  where  it  obtains  the  name  of  Hfn- 
dtrfofCs  Burn^  and  at  laft  joins  tliat  of  Carnock,  which  pro- 
duces a  few  trouts  and  eels. 

^^mma/f.-^The  quadrupeds  are  fucfa  as  are  common  10  the 
country.  The  horfes  and  black  cattle  are  of  the  middle  fise, 
and  thrive  in  proportion  to  the  richnefs  of  the  pafture  and 
goodoefs  of  the  feafon.  There  are  but  few  flieep,  efpecially 
iince  fown  grafs  became  general  in  the  pariih.  The  birds, 
befides  the  common  poultry  and  a  few  turkies,  are  magpies, 
{parrows,  crows,  and  a  few  bawks^  with  fwaUows  and  cuckoos 
in  their  feafons'. 

Po/«&/io;r.-*With  rcfpefi  to  the  popvlatiotf  of  the  parilli 
in  ancient  times,  we  cannot  now  fpeak  with  precifion,  only  it 
spears,  that  thefouthcrn  part  was  much  lefs  populous  for- 
merly than  it  is  at  prefent.  There  are  people  yet  alive,  who 
remember  only  a  few  houfes,  (perhaps  tvyo  or  three)  ftanding 
upon  the  ground  which  is  now  occupied  by  the  populous 
village  of  Gairuey-hiU,  where  there  are  now  more  than  4CO 
fouls  ;  and  there  are  feveral  adjoining  farms  on  the  proper- 
ty of  Sir  John  Halkett  in  this  parifli,  upon  each  of  whick 
•here  are  faojiliea  of  childrcu  and  fervants  probably  as  nmmc- 

rotts 


of  Carnock, 


485 


roQS  as  before  the  village  exified.  In  other  parts  of  the  pa- 
riili,  the  populatioo  is  more  fimila  to  what  it  was  30  or  40 
jears  ago.  The  average  of  burials,  from  1754  to  1761,.  is 
about  ii-r»  which,  if  multiplied  bj  36,  gives  414  :  perhaps 
that  regiller  is  not  perfeAlj  exad;  but  if  we  fuppofe 
that  it  is,  and  that  the  proportion  of  burials,  to  the  number 
of  inhabitants,  is  the  fame  here  as  above,  they  were  fcarce  the 
balf  of  their  prefent  number.  The  population,  at  differenc 
periods,  and  the  proportion  of  marriages,  births,  and  burials* 
to  the  number  of  inhabitants  in  1781  and  1791,  maj  be  ob- 
&rved  bjr  infpeding  the  following  tables : 


Statistical  Table  of  the  Parish  07  Carnock. 

Population  in  175  s,  -  .  -  583  Imreaje. 

■  in  1781*,  -  •         9ii 

Incceafe  in  a6  years, — -— 
Number  of  fouls^in^  1791*9        *         -      970 
Increafe  in  10  years, 

Totd  increafe  in  37  years, 


Arainal  avei^ge  of  buiiab  for  7 

yean,  from  175410  1761,  -    ii{ 
JUiXXo  of  births  for  the  \z&  10 

jcars,  nearly  -  aS 

'         marriage^oearly      -       8 
■■  deaths,        -         -         19 

Members  of  the  BBab.  Church, 

incladiilg  jhfants,    -    -   489 
Btflenten  of  various  deno* 

Biixiationi,        •        -       481 

9'!^ 


Number  of  houfei,     - 

. ploughs  f, 

—  "  carts, 

horfes,    - 

■     ■  '        ^«  black  cattle, 
■■  iheep, 


7(h 

S» 
-    140 

IOC 

«—     farmers  irirr'^,  i% 

—  ditto  unwacried,  -,     4 
^  heritors  refident,  3 

—  ditio  non- refident,  4 

—  fcuars  in  villages,  •    S# 

Number 


*  *  Theftf  furveys  trerrmade,  and  the  lifts' completed,  the  former  in  March 
178 1 ,  Add  the  latter  in  December  1791^ 

>  Oxen  are  eittplojed  in  about  a  third  ^f  thefe.    The  reft  are  entirely  dtawB 
by  horfes.  |  All  of  tbefe  have  childreji. 


486 


Stati/ilcal  Account 


Namb«r  of  ditto  in  the 

country. 

30 

Number  of  mincn, 

- 

.    < 

■                  weavers^  m  afters,     - 

■    35 

■-  colliers. 

about 

3S«4^ 

--  mlniftersy 

1 

-.; 

ces. 

35 

-^  tstiburghcr  ditto, 

J 

Bpprcou 

5 

-»  (tudents 

(Xft   dlvinxtr.        i 

'                   mafonst 

>.  noor  on  the  rails 

I; 

4 

•-  malp  rtrv&iirs 

61 

•— — —  tailors, 

u 

-    -5» 

5 

^  jgy»l>hQi»T**f* 

MARRIAGES 

BAPTISMS; 

DEATHS, 

OR  BURIALS. 

Couples. 

Malei.    Females. 

T«t. 

Males-    Females. 

Tot. 

1781,     -     10 

ao 

10 

30 

7 

9 

16 

X7.8a,  -    -  6 

iz 

II 

sa 

9 

5 

14 

1783,    -      7* 

13 

II 

a4 

la 

13 

25 

1784,   -     10 

14 

8 

aa 

6 

8 

14 

1785,    -    17 

16 

15 

SI 

4  ' 

9 

13 

X786,  -    -  8 

ao 

x6 

36 

6 

4 

10 

1787.    -      6 

16 

'5 

3« 

>7 

«4 

31 

X788,    -    10 

J7 

12 

39 

7 

8 

»5 

1789,    -      8 

>9 

16 

35 

II 

»7 

28 

1790,  -    -  5 

7 

16 

*3 

ij 

8 

23 

87 

153 

130 

283 

94 

95 

189 

Aver,  for  7    o? 
loy«rs,j  8'^ 

15.V 

»3  . 

aS.V 

9.^ 

9.V 

18A 

ViOagef  and  Mantifa£iurej,'^The  two  principal  villages 
are  Carnoci  and  Cairney^hiU^  both  pleaiisntly  fituated,  the  for- 
mer upon  a  fxnall  rivulet,  the  latter  upon  the  great  road  lead- 
ing from  Duafermline  to  Torrjburn,  Culrefs,  Alloa,  aod 
Stirling.    The  bridge,  which  joins  the  li  divifions  of  Ac  vil" 

lage 


Qf  Carnock.  487 

lage  of  Carnock,  bears  date  1638*  The  village  of  Cairney* 
hill  forms  part  of  the  eilate  of  Pitdennies,  the  property  of 
Sir  John  Halkett  of  Pitfirran*  Baronet.  The  villages  of 
Gowk^bfill  and  New  Lufcar  are  but  fmall,  and  moil  of  the  in- 
habitants  live  in  hamlets  of  two,  three,  or  perhaps  fix  honfes 
each.  Our  only  manufaflure  is  the  weaving  of  cloth  and 
lioens. 

Ecclefiaflical  State  *. — The  church  of  Carnock  appears,  by 
an  infcription  flill  legible  upon  it«  to  have  been  built  inl6o2, 
by  Sir  George  Bruce  of  Carkock,  who  was  one  of  the 
Lords  of  Seilionf  and  aacellor  of  the  prefent  Earl  of  Elgin- 
It 


*  It  IS  remarkable,  that  %  of  the  miniilers  of  Carnock  were  defPofed  or  ejededp 
yet  none  of  them  for  any  alleged  immorality;  but  all  of  them  for  what  may  be 
charitably  fuppofed  to  hate  been  with  them  mjttert  of  eonfiiince.  One  was  ejed* 
ed  by  Archbifhcp  Sharp  in  1662,  for  refufing  to  ackifowledge  the  Epifeopal  fbrm 
cf  Church  Oovemment  and  Worfhip;-~another  after  the  Resolution  ^ell  a  mar- 
tyr to  Epifcopacy,  by  fuffering  deprivation  for  not  acknowledging  King  William 
and  Queen  Mart  ;— and  a  third,  in  the  prefent  century,  was  folcmnly  depofc^ 
by  the  General  Alfembly  of  the  Church  of  Scotland,  for  not  bearing  a  part  in 
n  Ttolent  fettlcment,  to  which  he  had  been  enjoined  by  the  authority  of  that 
Conrt.  This  was  the  famous  Thomas  Gillbspis,  afterwards  founder  of  the 
PacsBTTERT  ofRsLitr,  whofe  cafe  has  long  been,  and  ftill  is  reckoned  by 

fome,  a  fingular  inllance  of  Prf/hjterian  perfecutUn. ^A»  the   lift  of  clergy 

can  be  traced  as  far  back  as  159a,  it  may  not  be  improper  to  fubjoin  the  whole 
feries. 

r 

I.  From  1594  to  1646,  Mr.  Jehn  Row,        •            -            -  •        54 

ji.  —ii*  1647  —  1663,  Mr.  George  Belfrage,            •              •  l4 

3. 1664  —  1679,  Mr.  L.  Schaw,            ...  15 

4. X679  —  1689,  Mr.  T.  Marihall,            -            -            -  XX 

5. 1693  —  1697,  Mr.  W.  Innes,           -             *             -  4I 

6.  —  1699  —  X734»  Mr.  Jamci  Hogg,               -               -  34f 

7.  Frpw 


4^B  Stati/lical  Account 

It  ^vas  laft  repaired  about  the  year  1772.     The  church   bcU 
bears  date  1638,  and  the  pulpit  1674,  with  this  motto,    Ser^ 
fnonim  vitit  pnthenUs ;  Phiupp.  ii«  16.    The  manfe^  and  xnoft 
<^f  the  offices,  were  built  in  1742;  and  repaired,  with   fome 
additions  in  178 1^     The  ftipend,  by  a  decreet  of  augmenta- 
don  granted  in  17939  confifts  of  7+  chalders  of  grain*,  and 
aol.  IDS.  o4Td.  in  money,  (including  communion  elements). 
The  glebe  confifts  of  9  acres,  which  are  worth  about  zol.  a- 
year;  and  the  manfe  and  oflSces,  garden,  and  other  privileges, 
may    be  worth  about  lal.  Sterling  per  annum.      So    that 
the  whole  may  be  eftimated  at  an  average  of  from   105I.  to 
107I.  Sterling  a-year ;  but  in  the  years  1782  and  1783,  it  was 
not  worth  above  X03I.     The  augmentation  in  whole  is  about 
241.  Sterling.    The  Reverend  Dr.  John  Eiikine  of  Camock 
b  patron; 

S^hool,^ The  falary  of  the  parochial  fchoolmafter  is  81. 

6%.  8d.  Sterling,  beiide  a  free  houfe  and  yard.  He  dfo  re. 
ceives  2os«  per  annum  as  feffion-clerk,  with  r2s,  6d.  for  his 
iMLtraordinary  trouble  at  the  Sacrament.     The  fchool  fees  are 

eftimated 


7.  Prom  1734  to  ^739i  Mr  Daniel  Hunter,        -        -    .      ,         .         ^l 

8.  1 741  —17511  Mr.  Thuraas  Gillcfpie,  -  ^  jqX 

9.  1753  •—  1780,  Mr  G.  Adic,  -  -  . 

JO.  —  4780  —1793.  Mr.  Alexander  Thomfon, 


«3 


Vacabciet  on  dificrent  occafioot, 


•  Viz.  61  bolU,  I  firlot,  X  peck,  i  lippic  and  nine  jthi  meal;  39  boHi,  3  Jr- 
lots,  X  peck,  3  lippiet  and  one  5  th  bear,  and  19  bolU  oatt. 

t  The  patronage  wat  acquired,  together  with  the  cftate,  from  the  Earl  of 
Kincardine,  about  the  year  1697,  by  the  late  Colonel  £rikine»  (who  died ii 
x;43}i  ^c  grandfather  of  the  Po^r« 


of  Carnock.  489 

eftimated  at  about  3I.  a-jear ;  and  the  perqulfites  paid  for 
proclamations  of  marriages,  and  regiftration  of  baptifms,  ivill 
amount  to  1  guineas  more ;  befides  which,  he  receives  a  fmall 
annuitj  of  5  merks  Scotch,  (or  5s.  6Ad.  Sterling),  from  a 
donation  bequeathed  to  the  kirk*fe(Con  of  Carnock,  bj  the 
Reverend  Principal  Row,  who,  being  a  native  of  this  parilh, 
left  this  as  a  fmall  teftimony  of  his  regard  for  the  place  of  his 
birth.  The  fchoolmafter's  whole  income  maj  be  calculated 
to  amount  to  15I.  6s.  8d.  Sterling  ;  a  fum  bj  far  too  fmall^ 
in  the  prefent  expenfive  age,  to  oompenfate  any  man  of  let* 
ters  and  genius,  for  executing  the  laborious  talk  of  teaching 
youths 

Poor,n— Though  the  number  of  poor  upon  our  ordinary  lift 
is  at  prefent  only  15,  yet,  upon  an  average  of  10  years,  it 
appears  to  have  been  not  le{s  tha|i  18  annually.  To  thefe 
there  are  6  diftributions  made  in  the  year,  befides  occafionat 
fvppliea  to  others,  whofe  nec^fOties,  occafioned  by  temporary 
indifpofition,  or  fudden  calamities,  require  charitable  aid. 
For  thefe  purpofes,  there  are  4  quarterly  diftributions  made,^ 
in  February,  May,  Auguft,  and  November  j  befides  2  extra- 
ordinary meetings,  viz.  one  about  the  beginning  of  the  year^ 
and  another  at  one  of  the  occafions  of  difpenfing  the  Lord's 
Supper,  as  that  ordinance  is  celebrated  twice  a,.year  in  this 
pari(h.  Sometimes,  however,  that  coincides  with  one  of  our 
quarterly  meetings,  which  is  confidered  by  the  kirk-feflion, 
and  feveral  of  the  quotas  are  increafed  in  proportion.  The 
funds  for  the  fupport  of  the  poor  are  as  follows  : 

Vo^.  XI*  3  Q^  Three 


490  Statj/Kcal  Account 

Three  hundred  poiinds  Sterling,  lent  out  at  5 
per  cent.y  producing  intereft  annuallj,  a- 
mounting  to  -  •  •  L-X^ao 

Weekly  colIeAions  at  church,  rate  per  annunii^ 

about  •  -  -  -  440 

Average  dues,  p^id  for  the  ufe  of  the  mort- 

doth,  -  -  -  z  zo     o 

Annual  gratuity,  from  the  principal  heritor,  %     %     o 

.CoUeAions  at  the  two  (acramental  occafions,  6  18     j| 


In  all,         -        L.  29  14     si 

,The  total  annual  income  of  the  poor's  funds  may^  therc- 
fore»  be  ftated  at  30I.,  befides  occafional  donations :  though, 
indeed,  we  have  had  no  legacies  thefe  many  years.  The  an- 
nual average  of  difburfements  to  the  poor,  for  ^hefe  lafl  xq 
years,  has  been  about  2ol.  Sterling  *, 


*  The  ftate  of  this  parifii,  lo  1783  and  1783,  meiitt  particular  attentioB,  u 
extraordinary  exertions  were  made  on  thefe  occafions  for  the  fapport  of  the 
poor,  who  would  otherwife  have  been  in  very  deplorable  circiunftanceg.    At  the 
defire  of  feveral  of  the  proprietors,  a  meeting  was  called,  on  the  sift  of  De- 
cember T 783,  of  the  heritors  and  kirk-fefCoa  conjundlf ,  when  it  was  agreed, 
that  an  aflefiment  of  the  lotb  part  of  the  valued  rent  ihould  be  IcTted.    This 
was  accordingly  done,  and  61.  being  taken  from  the  poor's  funds,  and  fereial 
private  voluntary  donations  added  to  it,  the  fum  of  30L  Sterling  was  railed, 
with  which  meal  was  bought  at  the  market  price,  and  fold  to  the  poor  at  the 
reduced  prices  of  is.  per  peck  for  the  oat  meal,  and  8d.  per  peck  for  the  bear 
&nd  peafe  meal.    This  fale  continued  for  8  months,  from  the  i8th  of  January  to 
the  19th  of  September  1783,  when  the  meal  fell  to  the  prices  above-mentiooecl; 
and,  upon  calculating  the  fum  total  of  expenditure,  it  apf>eared  that  about  24]. 
StciUng  had  been  laid  out  for  that  b^nevol^nt  purpofe.    On  that  pccailoo,  tooi 


tf  Cfirnock.  49 1 

Heritdrs  and  /?^«//.-— Theft  are  7  great  proprietors  in  this 
^ariihy  who  paj  ftlpend  and  all  public  burdens  ;  befides  one 
JTmall  fetter,  who  pays  onlj  a  ttifle  of  vicarage,  one  large  feu- 
er,  who  pays  no  ftipend,  and  a  great  number  of  others,  who 
have  no  other  property  but  their  houfes,  and  a  fmall  fpot  of 
ground  (often  lefs  than  an  acre)  adjoining  to  each.  Their 
number  is^  therefore,  uncertain  and  variable.  The  landed 
property  (including  that  of  the  whole  of  thefe  feuers)  may 
1)e  edlmated  at  about  iiool.  per  annum**  In  this  fum  is 
Included  the  rent  of  the  feffion  houfes  on  the  feveral  eftates  ; 
and  the  rents  of  the  gentlemens  houfes,  inhabited  or  habit- 
able, within  the  parifli,  may  be  computed  at  50I.  more* 
The  beft  arable  land  lets  at  about  23s.  per  acre  ;  in- 
ferior grounds  at  los.  iss.  and  15s.  Failure  lands  let 
at  from  5s.  to  7s.  6d.  The  average  rent  of  farms  is  a« 
bout  70L  a-year,  none  of  them  being  very  large,  few  indeed 
exceeding  100  acres,  and  fome  being  much  lefs.  The  fize  of 
farms,  however,  and  confequently  the  rents,  are  upon  the  in- 
creafe ;  the  greater  part  of  the  arable  land  being  now  enclof- 
ed,  as  both  proprietors  and  tenants  feem  convinced  of  the  ad- 
vantage of  enclofures. 

3  Q^a  Fuel. 

the  kirk'CcflioB  were  more  liberal  than  tifual  In  their  didributiont;  and  our  pa« 
tron  and  principal  heritor  evidenced  his  liberality  by  giving  two  Guineas  to  the 
poor  in  May  1781,  and  three  more  in  December,  befides  hit  proportion  of  the 
afliefTment,  which  amounted  to  upwards  of  feven  Ouineai.  By  thefe  meani» 
under  the  blei&ng  of  God,  the  poor  of  this  parilh  were  provided  for,  and  not  on- 
ly prevented  from  rioting  and  moUimg^  but  pretty  comfortably  fupported,  tin 
the  return  of  plenty  fuperfeded  any  farther  demands  upon  the  generoiity  of  the 
public. 

*  Landed  property  has  not  been  very  fluAuating  in  thi  pariih,  none  having 
been  difpofed  of  within  thefe  20  years,  except  the  eUatcs  of  the  Clune  and  tkf 
Camps ;  which,  it  is  fatd,  were  fold  at  about  |o  years  purchafe. 


49^  Statiftical  Account 

Fuel. — ^There  is  a  fmall  quantitj  of  mofs  in  the  S.  £.  part 
of  the  pariihy  from  Tvhicb  a  few  peats  are  dag,  but  thefe  are 
folely  appropriated  to  the  kindling  of  fires,  coals  being  the 
only  fuel  ufed  in  this  diftrift,  as  thej  abound  both  in  this 
pariih  and  in  the  neighbourhood.  The  average  price  of  great 
coal  is  2s.  6d.  for  40  ftonrs,  and^  for  the  fame  quantity  of 
chows,  or  fmall  coal,  is.  3d.  The  carriage  paid  for  a  fingle 
horfe  cart  of  coals  is  4d.  per  mile.  But  here  it  will  be  pro- 
per to  give  a  particular  account  of  the  coal  mines  on  the  di£> 
ferent  eftates  in  this  pariih. 

Blair  Colliery. — There  are  two  veins  of  coal,  the  one  4  and 
the  other  7  feet  thick ;  both  of  which  have  been  wrought 
fome  jears,  and  are  ftiil  working.  They  are  of  a  ftoney  qua- 
lity, and  emit  a  very  confiderable  heat  when  ufed  as  houfe 
fuel.  They  are  fold  at  is.  3d.  per  cart  (of  40  ftones  weight), 
exclufive  of  carriage.  The  fmall  coal  has  been  found  to 
anfwer  well,  for  burning  lime,  and  for  falt-works.  Under 
thefe  two  veins  of  coal  there  are  other  two ;  the  one  2  feet 
10  inches,  and  the  other  3  feet  thick.  The  former  is  z,/ptint 
coal,  the  latter  Vifmitby  coal  of  a  good  quality.  Of  thefe  two 
veins  only  a  fmall  part  has  yet  been  wrought,  as  they  are 
under  level.  Preparations,  however,  are  now  making  for 
working  both  *. 

Merrylees  Colliery. — Thb  coal-work  is  the  property  of  Mr. 
Mutter  of  Annfield,  and  has  been  wrought  to  a  confiderable 
extent  for  thefe  8  years  paft*  The  laft  leafe  taken  of  it  was 
at  the  rent  of  lool.  Sterling,  and  a  fteam  engine  was  ereded 

for 


*  On  the  Blair  eftatc  there  is  alfo  iron  ftone,  both  of  the  bed  and  biUl  kiod, 
but  no  proper  uial  bis  jet  been  made  to  afcertain  its  qualitjr. 


ofCarnoci.  49  j 

for  draining  it.    There  are  paany  reins  of  this  coal,  feveral 
feet  thick,  partlj  above  level  and  partly  below.     It  is  princi- 
pally ufed  for  drying  corn  and  malt  for  the  mills,  for  which 
it  feems  peculiarly  well  qualified,  as  the  grain,  dried  by  it» 
does  not  receive  the  fmalleft  tinge,  but  is  rather  fairer  after 
the  operation  than  before  it.     But  the  moft  valuable,  as  weU 
as   fingular  property  of  this  coal,  is,  that  grain  or  malt  dried 
by  it,  is  proof  agaioft  the  depredations  of  the  weevil,  and  aH 
other  £maU  vermin.    And  it  is  even^  faid  to  be  afcertained, 
by  repeated  experiments,  that  if  only  a  part  of  the  grain  be 
dried  with  this  coal,  and  mixed  with  other  grain,  the  vermin 
am^ng  the  grain  not  dried  with  it  will  be  deftroyed : — So 
powerful  are  its  effefts  ia  dellroying  thofe  pernicious  animals, 
without  communicating  any  quality  to  the  com,  in  the  fmall- 
eft degree  prejudicial  to  the  health  of  man.     On  thefe  ac- 
counts this  coal  is  of  confiderable  ufe  to  maltfters  and  corn- 
dealers.    When  there  is  a  great  demand,  it  is  (hipped  at  Toi^ 
ry  pier,  oppofite  to  Borrowftownnefs,  where  veflels  are  load- 
ed with  the  greateft  difpatch. 

_  • 

Wbinny-hill  (7o///^ry.— — This  coal  belongs  to    Sir  Johrt 

Halkett  of  Fitfirran,  and  has  the  fame  qualities  with  that  of 
Merrylees,  as  the  two  collieries  are  fituated  very  near  each 
other,  and  are  feparated  only  by  a  fmall  rivtdet,  which  forms 
the  march,  or  boundary  between  the  two  eftates.  This  coal 
is  at  prefent  (May  1791)  wrought  to  a  confiderable  extent, 
and  is  delivered  at  Torry  pier,  and  put  on  fhip-board,  car- 
nage free,  at  30s.  per  chaldron.  Notwithflanding  the  great 
abundance  of  coals,  there  are  no  coal  waggons  in  the  parifh* 

J{oai!r.— -The  fituation  of  this  parifh  is  upon  the  whole  ad- 
vantageous ;  but  the  inhabitants  labour  under  one  great  in- 
convenience 


494  Stati/iical  Account 

convenience  from  the  badnefs  of  the  roads.  In  fummer  tha 
ftre  tolerable,  but  in  winter^  or  during  a  long  conrfe  of  raioj 
iveather,  thej  are  hardly  paflable,  owing  to  the  foftnefs  cf 
the  foily  and  the  great  number  of  heavy  carriages.  It  is  hop. 
cdy  however,  that  this  inconvenience  wiU  foon  be  temedidi 
by  a  proper  application,  or  reafonable  commutation  of  the 
ftatute  labour,  as  well  as  by  the  eredion  of  turnpike  roads ; 
the  advantages  of  which,  being  already  felt  in  fooie  of  the 
neighbouring  diftrids,  are  now  more  generally  acknowledged 
than  formerly. 

Inns  and  Ale-houfes. ^There  are  about  lo  fmall  inns  and 

ale-houfes  in  the  parifh,  viz.  4  in  Camock,  5  in  Caimy-hill, 
and  I  in  Blair.  Although  thefe,  as  well  as  mod  other  ac- 
commodations, and  enjoyments  in  life,  are  and  may  be  abuf- 
cd  to  the  purpofes  of  intemperance,  yet  it  muft  be  admitted 
fiiat  feveral  houfes  of  this  kind  are  neceffary  in  country  pa- 
riflies,  for  the  convenieace  of  travellers,  and  the  accommoda- 
tion of  the  people  who  come  from  a  diilance,  to  attend  public 
worfliip  on  the  Sabbath  day.  Perhaps,  however,  the  number 
at  prefent  in  this  parilh  might  be  diminifhed,  without  anj 
great  inconveniencci  or  rather,  probably,  with  advantage  to 
the  inhabitants. 

Houfes  and  Cottagesy  isi'c. Within  thefe  10  jt2T$j  about 

ao  new  houfes  have  been  built  in  difierent  parts  of  the  pa- 
rilh. Scarce  any  have  been  pulled  down,  except  fome  cot- 
tages belonging  to  the  colliers,  who  frequently  move  from 
one  colliery  to  another  ;  and  the  habitations  being  flight  and 
fuperfiqial  foon  go  to  ruin.  Two  or  three  huts,  pofTeffed  by 
fmall^tenants,  have  alfo  become  ruinous,  but  the  number  of 
cottages  erefted  within  that  period  greatly  counterbalance* 

them; 


ofGarnocL  49  jj 

them ;  a  very  coofiderable  niunber  o£  cottagers,  beiing  em^ 
plojed  as  day-labourers,  from  the  villages  of  Carnock  aii4 
Caimjohill.  The  emplojing  of  cottagers  has  been  found 
preferable  to  the  hiring  of  fervants,  being  equally  cheap  and 
fiar  lefs  troublefome  *•  '  It  is  a  faft,  that  improven^nts,  pro« 
jecuted  in  this  manner,  on  feyeral  of  the  neighbouring  eftates, 
haive  turned  out  to  good  account.  And  it  may  be  added,  that 
thofe  gentlemen  who  thus  employ  the  inferior  ranks,  do  the 
Bioft  eflential  fervice  to  their  country,  by  not  only  beautify^ 
ing  and  enriching  the  ground,  but,  at  the  fame  time^  giving 
encouragement  to  population  and  honeft  induftry. 

Improvements. — ^Within  thefe  lafl  16  years  there  have  beem 
planted  in  the  lands  of  Blair  above  1 30^000  foreft  trees,  part- 
ly firs  of  different  kinds,  and  partly  hard  wood.  There 
are  two  parks  on  Carneil-Hill,  in  high  cultivation,  mak- 
ing about  zoo  acres  between  them.  About  five  or  fix  bolla 
of  lime  (mixed  with  dung  or  coropofi),  ara  ufed  for  an  acre. 
\n  the  land  of  Clune,  about  jO  or  60  bolls  of  lime  were  ufed 
^or  an  acre,  when  firft  taken  in  from  moor*     Lime   bebg 

nl^ntifuli 


*.  Day-labourers  generally  get  is.  per  d»y  in  fummer  and  lod.  in  winter,^  with-- 
oat  maintenance.  Men  fervants  receive  from  61  to  7L,  and  women  fsom  aL 
I  OS.  to  3L  Sterling,  befides  their  board.  The  expencc  of  a  common  labouier 
and  his  family  may  be  eftimated  at  from  15I.  to  iSL  per  annum,  which'  is  de- 
frayed by  the  united  induftry  of  the  parents  and  their  children,  fi^  the  time 
they  are  able  to  do  any  thing.  The  wages  of  a  day-labourer  will  be  about  14L 
Sterling  a-year  of  clear  gain,  at  an  average.  At  hay-roaking  the  men  get  zed. 
and  the  women  7d.  Male  reapei)|^uring  harveft  get  lod.  per  day,  and  females 
7d.,  with  their  meat.  Ditchers  get  is.  per  day  without  maintenance— It 
may  be  added,  that  the  wages  of  tradefmen  are  in  proportion ;  as  hagfe-carpcnt- 
ers  get  zs.  id.  pei  day ;  maibns  is.  6A,  for  9  months,  and  is.  the  other  3 ;  flaten 
a  .  in  funmer  and  6d.  in  winter ;  and  tailors  jd»  per  day,  befides  maintenance. 


49^  Statlftlcal  Account 

'  pletitifiily  there  is  no  demand  for  marl,  though  feme  of  tK« 
latter  has  been  dag  from  the  mo($  in  the  S.  £•  part  of  tbe 
parifli.  The  farm  of  Cameil  was  all  enclofed  finoe  1761,  sod 
like  wife  the  Clune  fahn  fince  1757  »  the  former  being  dooe 
bj  Mr.  Colvilly  the  prefent  farmer,  and  the  latter  bj  Mr, 
Chalmers,  the  late  proprietor  of  thefe  lands* 

Xahguagi.^^Th^t  the  Gaelic  or  Erfe  was  the  ancient  km 
gtttge  of  this  part  of  the  country,  is  erident  from  the  names 
of  moft  places  in  the  parifli ;  fuch  as  Camoci^  Lufcar^  Chaty 
Blair^  Pitdenny^  Cameil^  ficc.;  though  ethers,  indeed,  of  later 
date,  are  clearly  of  modern  derivation  ;  fuch  as  Bonny^Town^ 
Herd^Hill,  Gowi.Haff^  Wood^End,  Jgw,  The  language  now 
generally  fpoken  in  this  diftrift,  is  the  broad  Scotch  diale^i 
with  the  Fifcfliire  accent,  which  gives  fome  words  fo  peculiar 
a  turn,  as  to  render  the  fpeaker  almoft  unintelligible  to  tb^ 
natives  of  a  different  county, 

Eminent  .Men.m^Vnitx  this  head,  we  can  only  ennme^ 
rate  as  natives  of  this  pariih,  or  refidents  in  it,  the  Rev, 
John  Row,  above  mentioned,  (whofe  father  was  minifter 
of  it  in  the  beginning  and  middle  of  laft  century,  and)  who 
was  promoted  to  be  principal  of  King's  College  in  Aberi 
deen ;  and  the  late  Mr,  Johk  Erskike  of  Camock,  profef- 
for  of  municipal  law  in  the  college  of  Edinburgh,  and 
author  of  the  larger  and  leffer  Injlitutis  of  fbf  Law  of 
Scotland^  Of  Mr.  Erikine*s  abilities  we  need  fay  nothings 
His  eminence  as  a  lawyer  is  univerfally  known.  He  refidcd 
mt  his  houfe  of  Newbigging,  in  this  parifli,  during  the  fum- 
mer  feafon,  for  upwards  of  30  years  ;  but  at  laft  removed  to 
Cardrofs,  in  Monteith,  where  he  died  in  the  year  1767,  hav« 
ing,  fome  years  before  that,  purchafed  coniiderable  property 
4  ther^i 


bf  CarnocL  49^ 

there,  which  U  now  poficfled  by  his  fecoiid  toni  Jamem 
£rsK1K£,  ££j.  of  Cardrols; 

Antiquities. — Of  thefe  we  dintiot  boaft  that  We  have  maoj^ 
There  feems  to  have  been  a  camfi  little  S.  from  the  village 
of  Carnocky  upoh  an  eminence,  which  dill  retains  the  name 
of  Camps ;  and  probabl  j  another,  in  fume  remote  period,  up^ 
on  Cameil'bilL  Both  feem  well  adapted  for  that  purpofe  ; 
the  afcent  being  fleep  and  difficult  upon  two  fides  at  leall^ 
and  the  profpefl  of  the  adjacent  country  nbbte  and  extenfive 
from  the  fununita#  Upon  opening  a  cairn  upon  Gameil-hill^ 
about  ao  jears  ago^  there  was  found  an  urn  of  earthen  ware^ 
containing  fome  fmall  copper  coins,  but  thejr  had  no  infcrip- 
tion  which  could  be  read  bj  thofe  into  whofe  hands  they 
'  came«  There  are  evidently  the  remains  of  a  camp  (probably 
one  of  the  Roman  Cajira  ftathio)^  upon  Craig^Lufcat  Hill^  in 
the  pari(h  of  Dunfermline,  adjoining  to  the  N.  £.  boundary 
of  ours.-^We  have  no  barrows  or  tumuti^  certainly  known  as 
artificial.  There  are  indeed  fome  Knows  ^  ox  fmall  iminenees^ 
as  the  Knows  of  Luf car ^  and  the  Law  Know  adjoining  to  Cm 
jiock.  From  the  name  of  the  lafi  of  thefe,  we  may  be  led  to 
believe,  that  it  was  a  place  for  aflembling  the  vafials  and  de-k 
pendants  round  their  fuperiors^  in  the  days  of  the  feudal  fyf* 
tem,  that  differences  might  be  decided  and  jufiice  ladminifter^ 
ed«  Several  of  the  hamlets  preferve  fome  traces  of  thofe  dlf'** 
traded  times  in  the  names  they  bear,  as  they  feem  to  indU 
eate  war^  confufion^  and  noj/ir.—— Among  the  antiquities  of 
Caraock  may  alfo  be  mentioned  an  ancient  crofs^  in  the 
middle  of  the  northern  divlfion  of  the  village.  This  crols  ia 
of  a  circular  form,  containing  fix  rounds  of  (tone  fteps,  rifiog 
one  above  another,  and  gradually  diniinifhing  in  diameter  as 
they  afcend.  In  the  middle  grows  a  venerable  tbom  tree^ 
Vol.  XI.  3  R  which 


49^  Slati/itcal  Account    , 

xvhi^h  was*  even  within  thefe  few  jears,  covered  with  leaver 
and  bloflbms  in  fummer ;  but  is  now  much  decayed.  It  is 
called  the  Thome  in  our  feffion  records  ;  about  the  middle  of 
the  laft  centurjr ;  and  is  probably  about  200  years  old. 

Ini  Craig, — The  Ink  Craig  of  Camock,  adjoining  to  tht 
Dam  Diii^  defcrvcs  to  be  mentioned  as  a  curiofity.  It  produces 
It  liquid,  rcfembling  ink,  M'hich  dfops  almofl  conftantly  from 
the  rock.  A  chemical  analyfis  was  made  of  this  liquid,  hj 
the  ingenious  Dr.  Black,  when  it  was  found  to  contain  a 
mixture  of  coal,  flinty  earth,  and  clay. 

Stature^  CharaDer^  and  Manner  of  Living,^^The  natives 
of  this  parilb  have  nothing  remarkable  in  their  iize  or  ftrength : 
neither  are  they  difcriminated  from  their  countrymen  by  any 
peculiar  qualities  of  the  mind.  Their  iize  is  generally  be« 
tween  5  and  6  feet ;  and  fcarce  any  one  has  been  known  to 
exceed  6^.  A  laudable  fpirit  of  induftry  prevails  much 
among  the  inferior  clalTcs.  The  men  are  moftly  occupied  in 
huibandry,  and  the  women  in  fptnning,  fewin^,  knitting 
iiockings,  &c.  There  are  very  few  who  incline  to  go  to  fea, 
though  feme  are  engaged  at  the  ports  on  the  Frith.  The  na- 
tives arc  equally  averfe  to  the  land  fervice  ;  not  above  9  or 
10  having  inlifted  in  the  army  thefe  many  years  ^  and  of 
thefe,  2  or  3  only  of  late.  In  point  of  benevolence,  it  is 
but  juftice  to  fay,  that  the  people  of  this  parifli  are  at  leait 
upon  a  par  with  their  countrymen  in  the  neighbouring  dif- 
trifts  ;  and  in  times  of  extraordinary  fcarcity,  exertions  have 
been  made  by  many  individuals  in  behalf  of  the  didrefled, 
which  did  honour  to  their  feelings.     The  coaimon  people 

live 


tf  Carnoik, 


499. 


live  rather  too  fparingly*  ;  although  there  is  rcafon  to  believe, 
that,  in  this,  as  well  as  other  refpefts,  their  manners,  cuftoms, 
drefsy  &c.  have  conliderablj  altered  within  thefe  50,  or  cveii 
within  thefe  laft  20  years ;  and  perhaps  the  extreme,  into  which 
fome  may  now  be  in  dangerof  running,  \%  that  of  living  rather 
beyond  their  income,  the  fatal  confequences  of  which  need 
not  be  prognofticated*  As  to  crimes^  no  inilance  has  occurred 
of  any  native  of  Camock  being  fubje£led  to  a  criminal  pro- 
Qtb  for  thefe  10  years  paft.  May  the  virtue,  fobriety,  induf« 
try,  and  regularity  of  the  inhabitants  continue  and  increafe  \ 
^men !  » 


3  R  a 


NUM, 


f  When  they  work  hard,  the  country  people  fliould,  in  general,  take  more, 
pourifliiog  diet  that  at  prefent,  aod  malt  liquors  inftead  of  fpiritous  ones.— ? 
The  prices  of  provifions  in  our  neaTeft  market,  are  generally  as  follows  :— 
beef,  4d.  a  pound ;  teal  and  mutton  ditto ;  lamb,  ^\L ;  pork,  4d.;  (pigs  and 
gcefe  not  fold) ;  ducks,  is.  each ;  chickens,  i\\.  or  4d. ;  (no  rabbits)  ;  butter, 
8d.  and  pd. ;  cheefe,  3d.  and  4d.  A^Hieat,  barley,  and  oats  may  be  reckoned, 
«t  a  medium,  ii.  per  boll  under  the  Mid-Lothian  high  fiars. 


^  Tbt  foUtywinf^  IfJI  of  inhabitants^  takfn  iniySi,  omitted  in  its  proper 
placet  may  here  be/uhjoined. 


Children  under  6  years  of  age,  Z59 

Males  above  that  age,        -  3S5 

Females,        .        -         -  366 

In  all,         -          -  .  9»o 

Children  of  the  Eftabliftied 

Church,        -        .        -  Jo5 

Examinable  perfons  of  ditto,  420 


Antiburghcr  Seceders,  -  143 
Burgher  ditto,  -  -  -  1 03 
Members  of  the  Church  of  Relief,  54 
Ditto  of  the  Chapel  of  £afe,  Dun- 
fermline, -  -  -  -  3' 
Cameronijins,  -  -  -.  «. 
Chil  Ircn  of  Diflcntcrs,         -        'S3 


In  aU, 


C2(S 


^ef  Stati^csl  JccouMt 

N  U  M  B  E  E    XLI.' 
PARISH  OF  CHAPEL  pF  GARIOCH. 

(pomtty  ^ni  l^n^d  •f^bn^dcif — ^^^fiy^^rj  of  Garioc^.') 
By  the  Rev.  Mr.  JopN  $hakd,  Mififier. 


Kami  and  EreQion* 


THE  ancient  name  of  thb  parifh  was  Logie-DumOf  ai 
Durnochf^  which  figntfies  a  /oti;  or  boUow  place.  The 
chorch  was  transferred  from  Logie  Dumo,  on  the  N.  fide  of 
the  water  of  Ury,  to  its  prefent  fituation,  at  the  E<  end  of 
the  hill  of  Banpochie,  early  in  the  17th  century ;  at  which 
period  the  parfonage  pf  FetterDeer,  lying  on  the  N.  fide  o£ 
the  river  ]pon,  was  annexed  to  the  pariih,  which  was  then 
appointed  to  be  called  Chapel  of  Gariocb,  in  a  decree  refpeA- 
ing  the  ftipend  obtained  aboi^t  that  time.  It  is  the  feat  of  the 
prefbytery  of  (ixarioch, 

Rsvers^  Form^  Exteai,  Soil^  C^mqU^  &c — ^Thc  river  Don 
divides  it,  on  the  S.  fide,  from  the  pari(h  of  Kemnay,  and  is 
the  boundary  between  them  for  about  1  miles.     The  pariih 

is 

t  Hence,  probably^  the  origin  of  Doraock  in  Sutherland,  and  Bornick  in 
Damfriet*ihire. 


Qf  Eba^l  of  OarmK  $^:\. 

\%  of  a  yery  irregnlar  figure :  Its  greateft  extent,  from  N.  to 
S.,  is  about  8  miles;  and  from  E.  to  W.,  about  7.  The  ap« 
pearance  of  the  country  is  hillj.  The  foil  is  of  various  qua* 
lities;  in  general,  it  is  very  improvable.  The  air  is  fuffi« 
cieady  dry  and  healthy.  The  W.  epd  of  the  parifli  is  indee4 
fobjefted  Co  frequent  fhowcrSt  from  its  vicinity  to  the  hill  of 
Bannochie.  There  are  do  diftempers  peculiar  to  the  parifli  ; 
the  mqft  prevalent  are  fevers  and  rheumatifm.  The  water  of 
Vry  runs  through  the  parifli  for  feveral  miles*  It  abounds 
with  ^ne  trout*  Pike  is  alfo  to  be  found  in  fome  of  the  pools  ^ 
but  no  falmon,  excepting  ip  the  fpawning  feafon. 

WoUty  Agtimhmii^  ani  Product; ^. — ^Trc^s  of  all  kinds 
thrive  well;  and  th^e  are  plantations,  of  conflderable  extent,  on 
the  eftates  of  ^ogu^  Pittodrif^  Balquham^  and  on  the  lands 
oiJlffhrfif^  belonging  to  Sir  Archibald  p rant,  in  the  parifli^ 
It  would  be  highly  bfine^ial  to  this  part  of  the  country,  that 
trees  were  more  cultivated  than  they  are.  A  great  deal  of 
ground  in  this  parifli  is  fit  only  for  planting.  Wood  has,  of 
late,  |>ecome  much  more  fcarce  in  this  diftrifi  than  formerly^  ^ 
and  has  of  confequence  rifen  greatly  in  value.  The  number 
of  acref  i^  not  afcertained.  The  greater  part  of  the  arable 
land  is  employed  in  raifing  oats  knd  bear*  Some  of  the  farms 
are  of  ooofiderable  extent,  and  will  fow  between  50  and  60 
bolls  of  gnain.  f  here  are  few  enclofures  in  the  pariib,  ex- 
cepting upon  the  farms  in  the  pofi[effion  pf  the  proprietors  \ 
GODfeqaently  (own  ^rals  or  turnips  cannot  be  much  culti- 
vated f* 

4  CatiUf 

*  Mr.  Kalkett  of  InYcnmraT,  about  30  ^tiM  ago,  6rft  introduced  the  cultsre 
of  tumipt  sod  fown  grait  in  this  parifli ;  and  his  eiample  in  farming  has  been 
focccishilly  fbUowed  by  01^7  in  the  neighbourhood.    The  crop  of  one  field, 

upon 


^o  J  Statiflical  Account 

Caitlc-^Tht  cattle  produced  in  this  parilk  is  bf  the  coBt 
snon  North  Country  bree^»  Mr.  Lefiie  of  Balqohain,  one  of 
the  heritors,  has  introduced  the  Gallowaj  kind,  which  are 
xnuch  efteemedy'  as  being  hardy,  large  boned,  and  well  ihaped. 
TThe  number  of  cattle  amounts  to  859,  of  iheep  1550,  of 
horfes  to  2oy« 

Population^^-^Thc  population  of  this  pariih  has  decreafed 
above  one-third  within  thefe  40  years,  as  will  appear  from 
tht  following  table. 

Population  Table  of  the  Parish  of  Chapel  of  Garioch. 

population,  as  returned  to  Dr.  '  Between  50  and  70,  -          S; 

Wcbftcr  in  1755,           -           1351  Arcrage  of  birth*,  9            it 

pitto  inl703,  inalc^,     -     469                          -^         oiar/iagas,  -         4 

females,    -    517  deaths,  -            1: 

—    sfi6.  Epifcopalians,        -  -        .     li 

—  Faeiilf  of  (fakers,  -        -       i 

Decreafe,  -  3^$  ■  Roman  Catholics,      -     i 

Undeno  years  of  age,          -          I99  Refidcnt  heritors,  -             4 

Between  10  and  ao,          -            acS  Non-refident  ditto,  .         -       < 

■■-  ao  and  50,  -  40^ 

Churchy  School^  and  Poor^  &c. — The  prefent  church  was 
tuilt  early  in  the  17th  century,  and  repaired  about  50  years 
ago.  The  manfe,  and  mod  of  the  office  houfes,  were  built  in 
1788  and  1789.  The  prefent  flipend  is  49I.  13s.  4d.  Sterling 
in  money,  57  bolls  of  meal,  and  iii  bolls  of  bear.  The 
glebe  is  about  16  acres,  feme  of  it  very  poor  ground.  Mr. 
Horn  Elphinftone  of  Logic"  is  patron.  There  is  an  EpifcopaJ 
xneeting-houfe  ziBlairdaff^  in  this  pari (h. — ^The  fchoolmafter's 

falary 

upon  the  Mains  of  Invcramfay,  which,  before  Mr.  HalkcU*s  improvemcnta,  w« 
fold  for  30s.  is  now  reckoned  worth  60I.  Stciling ;  and  the  reft  of  the  farm  i^ 
ImproTed  in  the  fame  proportion. 


tfCbaptl  of  Garioch.  jo  J 

lelarj  !s  14  bolls  %  pecks  of  meal,  40  merks  as  feffion-clerk* 
7he  fees  for  teaching  ire,  is.  6d.  for  arithmetic  and  writing, 
and  a«.  for  Latin,  per  quarter.  The  average  ijumbcr  of 
fcholars  is  about  30.  The  prefent  fchoolmafter  is  very  dili- 
gent and  attentive. — The  number  of  poot  on  the  roll  is  30. 
The  amouift  of  the  funds  for  their  fupport  is  about  351.- 
Sterling,  which  includes  colleftions,  penalties,  and  mortcloth 
monfej;  alfo  4!.  159.  of  intereft,  and  lol.  Sterling,  mortified 
bj  Dr.  Anderson,  late  of  St#  Chriilophers,  a  native  of  this 
parifli.      ' 

'Roads  and  Inns. — ^The  roads  in  the  parifh  are  made  and  re-* 
paired  by  the  ftatute  labour,  which  is,  in  general,  very  fuper- 
ficiaUy  performed «  The  road  froni  Aberdeen  to  Invernefs 
pafles  through  the  pari(h  for  about  7  miles,  and  is  often,  in 
many  places^  almoft  impaifable.  The  crofs  roads  are  numer- 
ous, and  very  bad  in  winter. — There  are  3  public  houfes  in 
the  pariih  \  2  of  them  on  the  road  to  Invernefs,  and  the  other 
on  the  road  that  leads  to  the  upper  part  of  Garioch* 

Di/aJvantages, — The  people  feem  to  be  fenfible  of  the  be^ 
nefit  of  enclofures  and  green  crops  ;  but  they  labour  upder 
many^difad vantages.  Tliey  are  far  from  the  means  of  im- 
provement :  Their  leafes,  in  general,  are  ibort :  The  mill 
multures  are  either  an  abA'radted  thirlage,  or  amount  to  the 
loth  or  nth  part  of  the  whole  produce  of  the  farm«  Mr. 
Horn  of  Logie^  and  fome  others  of  the  heritors,  are  convinced 
of  the  impolicy  of  this  tax,  and  its  hurtful  efi*e£ts  uponim^ 
provements,  and  are  taking  every  ftep  in  their  power  to  re- 
medy the  grievance.  Among  the  diladvantages  of  the*parifli, 
may  alfo  be  reckoned  the  difficulty  of  procuring  fuel.  A 
coniiderable  number  of  the  pari(hi9ners  go  to  the  hill  of  Ban- 
aoohie  £mt  their  p^ata,  by  a  Very  ftcep  road,  which,  in  a  rainy 

feafooi 


jf04  Statlfikal  AccouHi 

feafoDy  is  impaflkblei  The  diftancc  £rom  liflse  is  alfo  a  gmt 
difadvaotage;  Indications  of  lioiefionc  appear  on  the  efiite 
of  Pittodrie ;  which  is  to  be  jwrticttlarlj  examined  bj  Colonel 
Knight  the  proptietor ;  and  if  it  fucceed  upon  trials  it  wiU 
be  of  great  benefit  to  this  part  of  the  conntrj^  Perfonal  fier- 
irices  are  not  aboUIhed  in  this  pariffli^  and  are  cenfidcrcd  as 
a  gteat  bar  to  improvement.  The  wages  of  fenrants  are  alib 
iocreafed  beyond  what  the  tenants  can  bear:  A  pIoiigfaBaa« 
wh0  was  formerly  fatisfied  with  3U  in  the  year,  liew  dcimmilt 
7I;  J  and  the  wages  of  other  fertahta  haire  rifeii  in  the  bstt 
proportion. 

AHti^iei^  Ecbp^  tf tf--^Theit  h  a  ijmklical  ttmple  neir 
the  old  ruinooa  caftle  of  Balquhaiii:  From  this  eaftle  there 
is  one  of  the  fiaeft  tchoi  in  Scotland.  There  is  a  large  fiooe^ 
abont  half  a  mile  Wa  from'  the  chnreht  which  is  about  10  feet 
high  above  gfonnd;  4  feet  broad,  and  a  foot  thick ;  it  is  calkd 
ibe  Maiden  Stona  There  are  feveral  corions  hierogryphical 
figures  cut  upon  it,  which  are  de(cribed  in  Pennant's  Tour* 
and  an  elegant  plate  of  them  given.  The  Uoody  battle  of 
Harlaw  *  was  fought  in  thu  pariflia 


*  This  battle  was  fougbt  in  the  jear  14!;,  between  Alexander  Earl  of  Min> 
who  commanded  the  royal  army,  and  Donald  Lord  of  the  Ifle&  It  proved  fatal 
to  a  great  number  of  the  nobility  and  gentry  of  that  age,  being  obftinately  coo> 
tended  on  both  fides.  Buchanan  fays,  that  night  feparated  the  combataots,  ra. 
ther  wearied  with  fighting,  than  from  any  idea  that  either  had  gained  the  bat- 
tle ;  for  when  each  army  reviewed  the  number  of  their  flain,  they  confidered 
themfelves  as  vanqniOied.  In  this  battle,  more  men  of  rank  and  fame  loft  their 
lives,  than  had  fallen  in  any  foreign  engagement  for  many  yean  preceding,  bf 
which  this  obfcure  village  was  rendered  memorable  to  pofterity. 


^  Inperkcitbny^^  505 

k 

NUMBER     XMf. 
PARISH  OF  INVERKEITHNY. 

(jCounty  of  Banff^Jlynod  of  Abcrdeen^^PreJbytery  of^urriff^ 

*By  the  Rev.  Mr.  John  Milne^  Minifur. 


Nami,  StttsatioMf  River,  and  Extent. 

• 

AVERT  large  burn,  or  rivulet,  which  'comes  through 
the  pariflies  of  Drumblade  and  Forg\ie,  falls  into  the 
river  Deveron,  near  the  church,  from  which  it  is  probable  the 
parifli  derives  the  name  of  Inverhithny.  The  parifli  is  fitu- 
ated  on  the  S.  fide  of  the  river,  and  is  in  the  commiffariot  of 
Moray.  It  is  in  length,  along  the  river  fide,  from  5  to  C 
£ngliih  miles,'  and  between  4  and  5  in  breadth* 

Produce  and  Rent.^^A  confiderable  quantity  of  grain  is 
annually  raifed  in  the  parifli.  The  rent  is  fully  90oL  Ster* 
ling. 

fuei, — ^There  is  fcarcely  any  thing  in  the  pariflii  that  can  be 
yoL.  XI.  3  S  caUcd 


^06  Statiftical  Auoumt 

called  mofs  or  ptaU.  The  inhgbiunts  are  fupplied  with  peals 
from  the  mofles  of  Foudlani^  in  the  parilh  of  Forgue,  and  of 
Auchintoul^  in  the  pariik  of  Mamoch.  They  alfo  bom  a  kind 
of  turfi  which  they  get  upon  the  hills.  Banff  Is  the  nenft 
fea-port  where  coals  can  be  got,  which  is  abo^t  12  Engliih 
miles  diftaot  from  the  ch^roh. 

Ecclefiaftical  Mattirs.^^Tht  church  and  manfe  are  fituated 
in  a  narrow  valleji  near  the  bank  of  the  Deyeron.  Tbe  pa^r 
riih  formerly. belonged  to  the  Synod  of  Moray  and  Prelby- 
tery  of  Huntly.  An  exchange  was  made  with  the  psKifh  of 
Mortlicht  which  originally  was  in  the  Synod  of  Abeideea 
and  Prefbytery  of  Turriff,  and  the  minister  of  Inyerkeithny 
ftill  draws  (7s.  8d.  Sterling  as  the  fieu*duty  of  a  houfc  in  El- 
gin, which  has,  probably,  been  one  *of  the  ftalls  in  the  ca- 
thedral at  Elgin.  There  are  no  dlflenters  from  the  EftaUifb- 
ed  Churchy  except  a  few  members  of  theEpifcopal  Church  of 
Scotland. 

Pofttlatiott.'-^The  population  of  Inrerkeithny  has  decreafed 
^pGderably  wkhin  theft  ao  years,  ^his  has  l^een  partly  oc- 
cafioned  by  the  fcarcity  of  fuel,  but  chiefly  by  the  frnnetf 
thbkiiig,  from  the  high  prices  obtained  for  cattle  and  graio, 
that  they  had  moro  profit,  by  cultivating  their  farms  them- 
felyes,  than  by  fubfettiog  a  confiderable  part  of  them,  as  wai 
formerly  done  in  all  the  northern  parts  of  Scotland. 

The  return  to  Dr.  Webfter,  in  the  •year  1755, 

was        -        -  -  -        -        571  fouls. 

The  number  of  fouls  at  prefent  (in  1793)  is      460 

Decreafei^        -         iii 
6  EmplojimenU 


tf  liiverkettbny.  507 

JSmpioymenh  and  CharaBer. — ^There  is  no  village  in  the 
pari(h ;  but  there  are  trade&nen  of  different  forts,  fuch  as 
fmitbs,  weaVersi  wrigbtSy  and  tailors.  All  the  reft  are  farm- 
ers.  The  inhabitants  are  in  general  an  induilrious  people,  in 
the  middle  rank  of  life,  and  are  particularly  diftbguiflied,  hj 
their  pa7ii\g  due  refped  and  attention  to  the  ordinances  of 
religion; 


3S»  NUM-i 


jot  Stati/lieal  Accomrt 

NUMBER.  XLIir. 
PARISH    OF    ALVES. 

t 

{County  and  Prejbytery  of  Elgin SyMd  of  Moray. y 

By  tbe  Rev.  Mr.  William  M'Beak,  Mini/ler. 


Extent^  Surface^  Soil^  and  Climate* 

THE  parifli  of  Alves  is  about  5  Engliih  miles  in  length, 
and  nearly  the  fame  in  breadth.  The  Moray  Frith 
waihes  its  coaft  on  the  N.  The  face  of  the  country  prefents 
a  moft  agreeable  mixture  of  hill  and  dale  ;  and  the  planta* 
tions  lately  made  by  the  Earl  of  Moray,  will,  in  a  (hort  tir^e, 
add  not  a  little  to  its  beauty.  The  foil  is  diftinguilhed  for 
its  fertility,  being  generally  a  deep  loam  on  a  clayey  bottom ; 
though,  in  a  few  places,  it  is  of  a  lighter  quality.  From  the 
nature  of  the  foi],  the  crops  are  rathe;  late;  but  ftom  the 
happy  climate  of  the  couoty  of  Moray,  this  is  attended  with 
no  material  inconvenience  to  the  farmer. 

Cultivation  and  Produce^ — The  tenants  are  very  indufbrious, 
and  their  labours  arc  amply  rewarded  by  excellent  crops. 
For  ceoturies  paft,  they  have  raifed  wheat  \  and,  until  lately, 


t  tf  Alvci.  50(^ 

\  tonfiderable  proportion  of  their  rents  was  paid  to  the  Earl  of 
Moray  in  that  grain.  This  his  Lord(hip  has  now  converted 
into  money,  as  the  tenants  found  it  more  advantageous  to 
cultivate  barley :  But  wheat  is  fiill  fown,  though  not  to  fo 
great  an  extent.  They  are  now  making  a  rapid  progrefs  in 
the  modem  ftyle  of  agriculture.  Grafs  feeds  are  laid  doWn* 
on  a  large  fcale.  Beans  are  planted  in  drills.  Many  acres 
of  turnips  are  fowo  both  in  drills,  and  in  the  broad  cad  way, 
with  great  faccefs.  Potatoes  are  alPo  raifed  in  very  confider- 
aUe  quantities;  both  by  the  plough  and  fpade.  'The  general 
fueeeffion-of  crops  is  three  plowtngs  for  barley ;  the  firft  in 
autumn,  the  fecond.  after  dunging,  in  April,  and  a  feed 
furrow  in  the  beginning  of  May.  The  fuecceding  crop  is 
commonly  oats,  if  grafs  feeds  are  not  laid  down  with  tfie  bar- 
ley. Occafionally,  grafs  feeds  are  laid  down  with  the  oats  ; 
and,  when  that  is  not  the  cafe,  tlie  following  crop  is  peafey 
and  barley  with  grafs  feeds  thereafter.  The  oats,  that  grow 
in  Alves,  are  about  a  fortnight  later  in  ripening  than  thcfe 
produced  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  therefore  are  in  requeft 
for  feed  in  the  light  and  fandy  grounds  in  this  country,  and, 
on  trial,  ar^  found  to  produce  an  excellent  quality  of  grain, 
and  foperior  quantity  of  fodder. 

Leafet* — It  would  be  of  material  confequence  to  the  ix^ 
tereft,  ^oth  of  proprietors  and  farmers  all  over  Scotland,  but 
efpecially  in  this  comer,  that  long  leafes  were  introduced. 
They  would  animate  the  farmers  to  fuperior  induftry  and  pro- 
fitable fpeculation,  as  they  would  alceruin  to  them  the  fruits 
of  their  induilry,  and  prevent  their  having  reconrfe  to  ex- 
handing  crops,  under  the  apprehenfion  of  being  foon  remov- 
ed. It  is  with  pleafurc  rhat  the  writer  of  this  article  can 
addy  that  ia  this  parifliy  upon  Lord  Moray's  property,  there 

ac« 


^to  StatiJIical  Account 

ixt  mixkj  Giraisi  that  have-been  continued  in  the  pbfleflioa  of 
the  fame  families  £or  feyeral  generations*. 

PbmghSf  Cattle^  Scc«*-The  ntunber  5f  ploughs  in  this  pn« 
riih  may  be  ftated  at  XI5  :  the  number  of  horfies  at  560 ; 
moll  of  them  are  of  a  ptettj  large,  lize,  and  £b  ftonc,  that  % 
of  them  draw  a  plough.  The  number  of  black  cattle  is  about 
xioo.  The  cattle  ate  not  now  fo  numerous  aathcj^pvete 
fbrmerlji  but  confideraUj  increafed  in  fize,  from  their -betag 
fed  with  artificial  graffes  and  turnips.  The  number  of  fheep 
is  about  2500.  Thej  are  of  a  wtrj  (mall  fize,  ezoepting  a 
few  of  the  large  Bakewell  breed; 

Pricis  of  Ldbbur^^'Tbt  priee  of  labour  is  confideraUy  ad- 
vanced within  thefe  few  jears.  The  wages  of  men  fervants. 
employed  in  huibandty,  are  from  61«  to  81.  when  thej  live  in 
the  family,  and  2  pecks  of  meal  in  the  week  when  they  da 
not.  Women  fervants  have  generally  from  30s,  to  409.  pet 
annum,  with  fome  perquifites.  The  wages  paid  to  reapers^ 
during  harveft,  are  from  xSs.  to  xL  xos.  They  are  gene- 
rally hired  for  the  feafon,  except  in  thofe  cafes  ^hen  the  fium^ 
ers  have  cottagers :  To  cut  down  their  com  is  a  part  of  their 
ftated  labour  ;  and,  for  this  and  other  lervices,  the  cottagers 
have  a  free  houfe  and  a  garden. 

a  tt  is  a  tircttxnftince  tlitt  deferves  partlciilar  ndtice^  at  it  points  out  wlict 
indttftrj  and  a  fteady  economy  can  produce,  and  at  tKe  fame  time  proves  the 
laudable  fbftcring  care  and  attention  of  fome  proprietors,  that  a£umly,  of  the 
aame  of  Akokrsok,  have  occupied  a  farm  in  this  pariih,  on  the  eftate  of  the 
Earl  of  Moray,  for  upwards  of  400  years.  The  prefent  tenant,  having  produced 
to  the  late  Earl  of  Moray  receipts  far  rents  u  far  back  as  the  time  of  Earl 
Randolph,  obti^ed  fiom  his  Lordihip  a  reaewil  of  his  Jeafc  on  the  moft  indul- 
gent terms« 

( 


« 


of  Alveu  5H 

MmfTiflSf  Fuel^  Inns^  C^r.— The  E.  end  of  thf  pari{h  a« 
V>UQd8  with  inezhauftible  quarries  of  excellent  freeftone» 
very  fit  for  either  building  or  milKfiones. — This  pariih  was 
once  abundantly  accommodated  with  peats  for  fuel ;  but  the 
moffes  are  now  almoft  ezhaufted,  and  many  of  the  country 
people  are  neceffitated  to  purchafe  coals. — There  is  but  one 
inn  or  public  houfe  in  the  parifli.  It  lies^on  the  county  road 
from  Elgin  to  Forres,  which  paffes  through  AItcs. 

Heritors  and  Rent. — ^The  heritors  are,  the  Earl  of  Moray; 
the  Earl  of  Fife ;  William  Brodie  of  Windyhills,  Efq.;  Peter 
Rofe  Watfon  of  Callfield,  Efq.;  Mifs  Brodie  of  Letheo  ;  John 
Spence  Munro  of  Kirktown,  Efq.;  and  George  Forteath  of 
Newton,  Efq— two  of  whom  only  have  their  reiidence  in 
the  pariih.  tt  is  not  pretended  to  give  an  accurate  flatcment 
of  the  real  rent,  as  that  mull  depend  upon  the  price  of  grain  ; 
but,  at  an  average,  it  may  be  eftimated  at  upwards  of  3000]. 
Sterling  per  annum.  Land,  in  general,  hero  lets  at  from  aos. 
to  30s.  per  Scotch  acre.  The  rents  are  paid,  partly  in  mo« 
ney,  and  partly  in  grain }  that,  is^  oats,  at  5  firlots  per  boU, 
and  barley. 

Population  *.«i-By  every  information,  the  population  of 
this  parifli  is  veiy  confiderably  diminiihed.  This  is  ftill  far- 
ther confirmed,  by  comparing  the  return  to  Dr.  Webfter  in 
1755,  which  was  .  .  •/  «  169c 

with  the  prefient  population,  in  1793,  -  xiii 

Which  fhews  an  evident  decreafe  f ,  within  thefe  jo 
years;  of  -  -  -  -  580 

Of 

*  The  ptrtfli  regifter  liu  bcco  fo  imgnlarif  kept,  that  the  ntimber  of  births, 
naniaaes,  and  deaths,  for  ibne  yean  paft,  cannot  be  afccrtained. 

f  This  decretie  may  be  afcribed  to  two  caufes,  that  appear  fuily  adequate  to 

the 


^it  Statifiical  Account 

Of  the  prefent  inhabitants,  there  are. 
Under  7  years  of  age,  -  -  -  •  '     12S 

And  above  that  age,  .  .  -  -        9S3 

Churcbf  Scbooly  and  Poor* — The  Earl  of  Moraj  is  patrcm 
of  the  par>ih  of  Alvc:>.  A  new  and  fubfiantial  church  was 
built  in  the  year  1709.  The  manfe  is  faid  to  have  been  built 
in  the  year  1690,  aTid  has  fioce  undergone  frequent  repain. 
The  ftipend'is  80  bolls  of  barley,  3C0I.  Scotch,  with  60  merks 
for  communion  elements.  The  falary  of  the  fchoolaialler  Is 
JO  bolls  of  bear,  and  33I.  6s.  8d.  Scotch.  Tlie  quarterly 
paynoent  for  reading  is  is,,  for  reading  and  arithmetic  is.  6d.t 
and  for  Latin  2S.  The  fchoolmafter  is  ;dways  fcffion^clerk, 
for  which  he  has  a  falary  of  il.  xas.  per  annum,  together 
with  thecafual  perquilites  aridng  from  the  regiftration  of  bap< 
tifms  and  marriages.  In  the  year  1715,  GfORGE  Duncav, 
late  merchant  in  Invernefs,  mortified  (funk)  jooomcrks  for  the 
benefit  of  this  fchool ;  the  intereft  of  which  is  applied  to  the 
education  of  6  boys,  not  above  xo  years  of  age,  each  of  them 
enjoying  this  for  4  years.  Thefe  burfars  are  named  by  the 
Diinifter  and  kirk-fcfTion, — ^The  funds,  for  the  fupport  of  the 
poor,  arifc  frdm  the  weekly  coUedions,  fines  from  delin* 
quents,  moncloth  dues,  and  fome  mortifications.  The  late 
Rev.  Mr.  Alexander  Watt,  who  was  once  incumbent  at 
Alves,  and  died  minifler  of  Forres,  mortified  the  principal 
fum  ot  30I.  Sterling,  for  behoof  of  the  poor  of  this  pariib. 
Tbefe  funds  afford  a  comfortable  i^lief  to  our  poor,  who  ai^ 
not  very  numerous. 

Antiquities. 

the  eOVas:  The  fcarcity  of  fuel,  arifing  from  the  raoffcs  being  wora  out;  and 
the  crtfts  and  fmall  pofieffions  being  converted  into  very  ezteufive  farma.  This 
laft  meafure  is  peculiarly  hoftilc  to  population,  and  in  the  end  wiU  appear  wtt 
much  againft  the  bed  interefts  of  our  country  at  large,  as  well  as  the^rmaocot 
advantage  of  the  proprietors. 


^Ktiquitiet — ^Under  the  head  of  antiquitjes,  there  is  little 
that  deferves  notice,  but  a  prodigioufly  large  cairn  of  ftones^ 
in  a  moor  on  the  N.  fide  pf  the  pod  or  county  road,  where 
tradition  iays  a  battle  was  fought ;  but  no  circumftances  are 
handed  down  concerning  iti  Some  Lochaber  and  Daniih 
axes,  of  a  particular  figure,  have  been  dug  out  of  the  mofs  of 
Eamfide,  in  thfe  neighbourhood  of  this  cairn.  An  infcrip* 
tioD  on  a  grave-ftone  in  the  church-jard,  dated  in  the  year 
I J90,  records  a  very  uncommon  circumflanee.  It  runs  thus: 
**  Here  libs  Anderson  of  Pittehfere,  tnaire  of  the  earldom  o£ 
^  Momjf  with  his  wife  Marjo&T,  wbiii  bim  never  dj^ScitJ* 

CharaSer  of  the  PeopU.'^Tht  people,  in  general,  are  veiy 
fober  and  indiiftrious,  regular  in  their  attendance  upon  public 
worihip,  and  fully  equal  to  their  neighbours  in  point  <4 
knowledge  and  information.  They  have  lately  acquired  e 
tafie  for  greater  neatnefs  in  their  hotifesi  furniture  and  drel|p 
than  formerly  prevailed* 


Vol.  Xt.  3  T  NUM- 


514  Stati/Heal  Actima 

NUMBER     XUV. 
PARISH  or  WESTERKIRK. 

{County  and  Synod  lif  Dumfriii'^—Frefijiery  ^Langboin^ 
Bjf  tb^  B4V^  Mr.  Wiujam  X4TTU;»  Mooter. 


Origin  of  the  Namti 

WESTERKIRK  w^s  fonncrlj  auned  Wsstsaku.  Iff 
the  writs  of  the  family  of  GtEVDOHwni  ol  that 
ilk,  ia  the  parifli,  there  is  a  conGrmationy  by  Archibald  Earl 
of  Douglas*  of  a  charter,  dileSi  nojhi  Domini  Ad^  d§  Glen^ 
donwyne^  mUitis^  dondm  ejufdtm^  mortifying  certain  of  bis 
lands  in  the  barony  of  Hawick,  for  the  foundation  of  a  cha- 
pel in  the  parifh  of  W$finktr^  with  a  fuitable  maintenance 
for  a  chaplain  therek),  for  the ^^^ry  oftbefouh  of  James  late 
Earl  of  Bouglasy  and  Sir  Simon  of  Glendonwyn,  his  brother- 
german* ;  alfo  for  his  own  foul,  Margaret,  his  wife,  and  their 
children,  6ur.,  dated  at  Glendonwyn,  9th  December,  and  con- 
firmed the  penult  day  of  the  fame  month,  A.  D.  13  s^  I.  Bar- 
tholomew, grandfon  of  the  faid  Sir  Adam  Glendonwyn, 
took  orders  in  the  church ;  he  was  chaplain  to  the  chapel  of 
Wefterker,  but  was  deprived  of  his  charge,  for  non-refidence, 

by 

•  James  Karl  of  Donglu  and  Sir  Simon  Gkodoaw^  fell  ia  the  BseiiMnble 
Vattle  of  Otterbarn,  anno  t^%Z, 


QfWefltrkirL  $1$ 

hj  Andrew,  biilxop  of  Ohfgow,  aaoo  1459  *•  About  a  mtl^ 
from  tbe  prefent  church  there  is  a  faroii  the  propiertjr  of  Sir 
James  JohnfionCt  but  which  formerly  belonged  to  tbe  family 
of  Glendoowjm,  called  WtfUrhsTs  from  which  the  pariHi 
feems  to  haye  got  its  name ;  and  this  cooje&ure  !&  the  mor« 
probable,  that,  on  a  ni^ck  of  land  between  the  £ik  and  th« 
Megget,  and  part  of  the  farm  of  Wefterker,  thene  are  feveral 
large  whin  or  moor  ftoqes  placed  ia  the  ground  ereftljr^ 
which  are  evxdenti  j  the  remains  of  a  Druidical  temple.  The 
parilh  of  \Vefterker  migh^,  in  procefs  of  time,  be  named 
W^Uriirl^  from  the  circnmftaace  of  iu  being  the  mod  weft^ 
crly  of  the  five  kirks  of  Elkdale,  commonly  fo  called^  y\i^ 
Cannohie^  Wauchope^  Ewes^  Siapfegordone^  and  Wefterkiri  $  of 
the  laft  of  which  the  prelent  parifli  of  EJkdakfntdr  was  a 
part,  till  the  year  1703,  when  it  was  ereded  into  a  feparatfe 
eftabliihment.  The  farm  uf  Wtfttrhcr^  from  which  the  paridi 
is  fuppofed  to  have  got  its  name,  was  probably  fo  called  fh>na 
its  vicinity  to,  and  its  fituation  in  refpeA  of  an  ancient  build- 
ing in  the  neighbourhood.  There  are  veftiges  of  a  caftle  on 
the  farm  of  Crooks,  a  great  part  of  which  was  ftaading  in 
the  memory  of  many  of  the  prefent  inhabitants.  Ctf^r,  ta  the 
Gaelic  language,  figniiles  caille,  and  W^er^catr^  or  Wefter.* 
kcr,  muft  mean  a  place  to  the  weft  of  the  caftle  ;  and  the  farm 
of  Wefterker  feems  to  have  been  fo  called,^  becaufe  it  lies  a« 
long  the  W.  fide  of  the  Megget,  oppofite  to,  aad  diftatit  not 
inore  than  a  furlongs  from  the  place  where  the  caftle  formec* 
ly  ftood* 

Extent. — ^The  length  of  the  parifh,  from  tbe  N.  to  the  E.  ex-L 
tremities,  is  9  miles  ;  but  as  the  boundaries  on  the  N.  and  S.  are 
generally  regulated  by  the  water  falls,  or  ridges  of  the  moun« 

3  T  a  tains,. 

t  (^rona^e  of  Scotlaod  j  Tule  GUndotnvyn  of  that  lU^ 


^•« 


Stati/Heal  Account 


tahiSy  its  breadth  is  verj  irregular.  In  the  S.  £.  and  N.  W« 
vhere  the  Efk  divides  it  from  the  parithes  of  Laogfaola  and 
Eikdalemuir,  the  breadth,  at  an  average,  does  not  exceed  % 
^iles ;  whereas  between  the  church,  which  is  nearly  in  the 
centre,  and  the  N.  W*  end  of  the  pariib,  the  breadth,  in  fome 
places,  is  little  ihort  of  its  length.  Though  the  length  on  thf 
S.  exceeds,  by  a  miles,  that  on  the  N.  bank  of  the  £lk»  jet 
%s  Wcfierkirk  extends  i^  great  way  among  the  hills  to  dia 
northward,  till  it  reaches  the  boundaries  of  Tmotdale«  two 
thirds  of  the  patiih,  or  thereabouts,  are  fituated  on  the  N, 
fide  of  the  river.  The  parifh  confifts  of  ^7,307  acres  ;  bat 
not  morei  perhaps,  than  a  twentieth  part  of  it  arable. 

Surfacf^  Soil^  and  CRnuUt, — ^The  appearance  of  the  country 
is  hilly  i  and  the  hills  in  general  are  high.  Some  of  them 
mre  covered  with  heath,  but  they  are  motlly  green  and  dry, 
and  afford  excellent  pafture  for  iheep.«-~-The  foil  is  various  ; 
the  lower  grounds  along  the  banks  of  the  Elk,  which  are  flat, 
confift  in  general  of  a  light  loam,  and  produce  plentiful  crops 
when  under  proper  management:  The  foil  on  the  rifing 
grounds  is  a  deep  firong  loam,  interfperfed  with  fiones ;  and 
the  tops  of  many  of  the  hills  are  covered  with  mob. — ^The 
climate  is  not  unhealthy,  though  fomewhat  moift,  as  the  hilb 
on  the  S.  fide  of  the  parifii  are  among  the  firft  that  intercept 
the  clouds,  in  their  p^ogrefs  northward^  from  the  Irifli  fea  an4 
f he  Solway  Frith. 

JtfWi ^The  Blaci  EJk^  dividing  the  parilh  pf  Wefterkirk 

on  the  S.  from  that  of  Efkdalemuir  on  the  N.,   for  about  m 
mile  in  length,  falls  into  the  white  E/k  at  a  place  named  the 
King  Pool^^  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  farm  houfe  of  Bailie^ 
4  hill. 

*  Tradition  relates  that  one  of  the  Pi^tilh  kings  was  drowned  la  this  pool, 
19  tttemptins  to  paft  oyer  the  ice,  from  which  circumiUnce  it  got  the  name  of 

King 


cfWeJUrkirk.  ^ly 


Y\Xi.    FrqiB  the  confluence  of  the  Eikst  the  riTeri  bj  %  va« 
sietj  of  beautiful  curves,  runs  through  the  parifli  toward  the 
8.  £•  for  the  fpace  of  7  miles,  till  it  reaches  Dowglen^cleugh^ 
and  then  pafles  along  the  I^«  fide  of  ihe  parifl),  nearlj  in  the 
fame  direAioo,  till  it  reaches  a  place  named  Craig-cteugh ;  a 
rivulet  which  divides  the  pari(h  from  that  of  Langholm  oql 
the  Sm  as  Dwogkn-ckugh  does  on  the  N.  fide  of  the  £&'• 
Many  burns,  or  rivulets,  fall  into  tl^e  Elk  within  the  bounds 
of  the  pariib.    From  the  hills  on  the  S.  fide  of  the  river  there 
are  13,  and  from  thofe  on  the  N.  9,  befides  the  Megget  and 
Steunis  water.     In  the  S.  fide  of  a  ridge  of  mountains,   the 
fummits  of  which  are  the  line  of  divifion  between  the  county 
of  Dumfries,  in  this  diredion,  and  that  of  Roxburgh  or  Ti. 
yiotdale,   the  Megget  and  Stennis  water  have  their  fources, 
Thej'are  divided  in  their  courfes  by  a  ridge  of  hills,  and  fed 
in  their  progress,  \yitt)  a  variety  of  f^reamlets  from  the  ueigh- 
bouriog  mountains ;  and  running  fouthward  for  6  miles,  the 
Stennis  water,  near  a  place  named  the  Crooks^  joins  the  Meg«- 
eet,  which  pafles  on  in  the  fame  diredion  for  about  half  » 
mile,  and  falls  into  the  £ik  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Wauk- 
mill.     The  Eik,  the  Megget,  and  the  Stennis  water  abound 
with  trout ;  and  falmon  were  a^b  taken  in  the  Elk  in  great 
number^,  till  the  late  Dr.  Graham  of  Netherbie  built  a  hzj 
acrofs  the  river,  for  the  profefltd  purpofe  of  procuring  water 
for  working  the  mills,  which  he  was  then  ere£ling  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Langtoun  ;  but  fince  that  time  fcarcely  anj- 
falmon  get  up  the  Elk,  excepting  when  it  happens  to  be  greatly 
flooded. 

Population."  ■  The  population  has  increafed  nearly  one 
fixth  within  thefe  40  years,  as  appears  from  the  following 
table: 

PoPtJLATiOK 
King  Toolt  and  tliat  his  corpfc  was  interred  in  the  top  of  a  ne i«^ibouring  hill, 
within  the  patiOi  ^f  Wcftcrkirk,  callkl  ShaurtJge. 


j.S 


Shiti/Ucgl  Account 


Porut ATioK  Table  of  the  Parilh  of  Westeekiuc 


KvuQber  of  fools  in  1755,  as  retnmed  to  Dr. 

Webftcr,  -  -  -  ^45 

Examinable  perfons,     484 1 
Children  under  7  years        1      ^ 

of  age,         .         -       83  M  ^j^^^ 
Diflentersy        -        "    '5 J  *""""       3i 

635 
—       73 


Pitto  in  1768% 
rizf 

Pitto  xn  X79J, 


Total  increafe,             ic6 

AGES, 

f  EXE8  AND  COKBinOXS, 

Unj^r  10  ftwn  of  age, 

X40 

Male^ 

-      ?            5t3 

^ween  10  and  so, 

-    XXO 

Fcinaleig 

-  34» 

'             so  and  7*1 

•       3«> 

Married  pcrfaot,       -      xjj 

79uiA9% 

^       -     IS 

Widowen. 

t6 

7 

Widows, 

-       s« 

Above  100 1, 

X 

mOFESStOKS  t* 

Aopkcepen,           % 

CMper,        - 

X 

firnzdi^     -     I 

MUler,         .         X 

-   % 

Catpenten,     7 

Baker,    .       -       s 

Tfilon.        - 

f 

Weaver^       t| 

List 

*  Thitftate  of  the  popvtation,  ia  X76S,  was  takea  hj  the  hte  Mr.  Scot* 
%AHP  during  the  couife  of  his  Tifitation. 

t  This  man,  aecording  to  hit  own  account,  is  xe6  years  old,  but  his  name  it 
not  on  the  feflion  record;  the  probability  however  is,  all  circimiUncea  conikkr. 
cd,  that  he  is  above  xoo. 

I  In  the  above  lift  of  profcSons,  jom^neymen  and  apprentices  are  included, 
•nd  they  all  find  fufficient  employment  in  working  for  the  inhabirants,  except 
the  weavers,  who  lometlmes  make  cloth  for  people  who  do  not  rcfidc  ia  the  p-. 
liih. 


Of  Wefierlirk.  jfig 


Lux  of  Bkniws,  Marrxaois,  and  Buriils,  for  the  hS 
Nine  Years. 

Yean.  Baptiihifl.  MarrUgeib  Buriab. 


1784, 

»7 

4 

1785, 

»5 

4 

1786, 

z6 

5 

»7«7» 

»S 

5 

1788, 

aa 

6 

1789, 

x8 

7 

1790, 

«5 

- 

i79»» 

16 

9 

»79»» 

ai 

8 

156  4S  104 

Ann.  overage,  neu-lj     17  5  zz 

RnU*  and  Farmx The  Ttlaed  rent  is  zo,8o8  merktf 

Sootdi,  the  TCsI  r«nt  3570!.  17s.  There  are  a7  farms,  be* 
fides  what  one  of  tha  bcvitora  retains  in  his  ovn  poflelBoiv 
and  what  is  rented  hy  a  miller  and  a  fmith,  who  peffeis  each 
»  few  acres.  The  rent  of  one  farm  is  between  400!.  and 
500I.  There  are  9  between  iod.  and  aooK  ;  the  others  are 
•U  below  lool.,  and  a  few  of  them  are  wider  aol.  a-jrear. 

^gneuUurt,  Prodye»,Catt/e,^c.'-Coa&iex3ble  improvement* 
bave  been  made  in  agricidture  finee  the  ufe  of  carts  became 
general,  and  efpeciallj  fince  the  jear  1 775,  when  a  bridge 
was  thrown  over  the  £(k  at  Langholm,  hy  which  means  the 
tenants  have  taSy  accefa  to  the  lime-kilns  in  Caanobie.  The 
principal  crops  are  oats,  barlej,  peafe,  potatoes,  (own  grafs  ^ 
and  wheat  has  fometimes  been  cultivated  with  fuccels.    Oat» 

are 


po  Statifiical  Juouitt 

ktt  fown  from  the  beginning  of  March  to  the  loth  of  A|iril  \ 
pdfe  in  the  end  of  March  or  beginning  of  April  ;  baxiej  h 
fown«  and  potatoes  are  planted,  from  the  middle  of  AprQ  to 
the  middle  of  May  \  turnips  are  fown  in  Jofte,  and  wheat  xb 
the  end  of  Angiill  or  beginning  6i  September.  The  haxvA 
^mmences  about  the  end  of  Auguft,  and  is  generallj  ooi. 
du^ed  about  the  mid^e  of  Odober.  Clover  and  xTe-grvis 
are  almoft  aniverfallj  fown  with  barlej,  and  the  genend  rm 
tation  is  as  follows  : 

Years. 

I.  Barley  with  clover  and  rye-grafs^ 

a.  Clover  and  rye-grafs. 

3.  Oats. 

4*  Fallow^  or  turnips,  or  potatoes. 

tViih  the  fifth  feed  time  the  rotation  begins  anew  when 
the  land  is  again  fowed  with  barley,  together  with  clover  and 
tye-grafs.  Some  take  two  crops  of  oats  after  the  clover  and 
rj'^.grafs,  and  others  3  ;  and  perhaps  the  fecond  crop  win  be 
better  than  the  firft,  becaufe  it  is  nee  fo  apt  to  lodge  when  the 
feafon  is  wet.  But  in  grounds,  that  are  eonftantly  under  tfl- 
iage,  efpecially  where  the  foU  is  light,  this  praftice  is  very 
injurious  to  the  tenant,  becaufe  it  impoveriflies  the  land  to 
fuch  a  degree,  that  it  cannot  be  brought  to  produce  a  plentiful 
crop  for  fcvcral  fucceeding  fcafons.  There  are  6^  carts  in 
the  parifli,  and  35  ploughs,  which  laft  ate  generally  of  the 
EngUfli  form.  There  are  86  horfes,  181  cows,  with  their 
followers ;  and  a  few  black  cattle  are  bred  for  the  EngUfli 
market. 

Sheep  and  JToo/.— The  parifli  maintains   17,480  iheep,  and 
thefc  are  all  of  the  long  or  white  faced  kind,  now  known  un- 

der 


Of  Wejlerkirk.  521 

der  the  name  af  the  Cheviot  breed.  Every  farmer  dlfpofes  of 
his  whole  lambs,  excepting  what  he  retains  for  keeping  up 
his  ftock^  I.  e,  he  referves  as  many  of  his  beft  ewe  Iambs, 
when  he  fells  the  others  in  the  month  of  July,  as  are  equal  to 
inrhat  of  his  flock  had  died  fince  the  Michaelmas  preceding, 
sind  the  number  of  draught  ewes  which  he  intends  to  difpofe 
of  in  the  SeptemUer  following:  At  this  feafon,  he  difpofes  yearly 
of  fome  of  the  oldeft  and  worft  of  his  ewes.  The  number  of 
draughts  fhat  he  fells  annually,  is  about  a  feventh  part  of  the 
vrhole ;  and  therefore  the  oldeft  ot  his  flieep  are  not  more 
than  7  years  of  age.  A  ewe  8  years  old  may  be  expedled  to  , 
bring  a  better  lamb  than  when  ibe  was  4  or  5  ;  but  her  fleece 
ivill  be  both  coarfer  and  lighter^  and  ihe  be  in  greater  danger 
of  dying  during  the  winter  or  fpring.  The  lamlis  and  draught 
ewes  are  generally  fold  into  Northumberland  aud  Yoikfliire# 
The  iheep  are  falved  about  Martinmas.  A  gallon  of  tar, 
mixed  with  a  Scotch  ftone  of  butter,  will  falve,  of  young  and 
old  throughout  the  flock,  about  45.  One  man  will  falve  20 
flicep  in  a  day.  Of  late  years  the  fanners  have  been  in  ufe 
to  buy  tups  of  the  Cheviot  breed;  and,  by  this  improvement, 
the  value  of  wool  is  fuppofed  to  be  increafed  at  the  rate  of 
about  2s.  6d.  per  ftone.  TUl  this  feafon,  the  price  of  wool 
had  increafed  thefe  feveral  years.  Some  of  it  fold,  laft  year, 
as  high  as  i8s.  a  ftone:  Tins  year  (1793),  it  is  fallen  about 
5s.  a  ftone.     Eight  fleeces,  at  an  average,  go  to  a  ftone. 

Bridges  and  Uwi^j— There  are  in  the  pariO),  to  the  great 
accommodation  and  fafety  of  travellers, « 16  ftone  bridges^r 
Thefe,  however,  are  moftly  built  on  a  fmall  fcalc  ;  none  of 
them  has  more  than  one  arch,  excepting  that  which  is  over 
the  £fk,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  church,  and  confifts  of 
3  arches.     This  was  built  about  50  years  ago,  and  at  the  cx- 

VoL.  XL  3  U  pence 


j^22  Statjjiical  Account 

pence  of  the  county.  Five  of  the  bridges  arc  th»wa  over 
bums  or  rivulets,  which  fall  into  the  Eik  from  the  hills  oa  the 
S.,  and  lo  are  built  over  thofe  that  come  from  the  mountains 
on  the  N.  fide  of  the  river.  There  are  2  public  road?,  which 
are  kept*  in  excellent  repair,  ind  run  from  the  S.  E.  end  of 
the  parilh  J  the  one  along  the  S.,  the  other  along  the  N.  banks 
of  the  Eik,  for  about  6  miles.  The  road  on  the  S.  croflfcs 
the  river  2  miles  above  the  church,  and,  on  the  N.  fide  of 
the  Eik,  joins  the  other,  which  is  continued  into  the  pariih 
of  Eikdalemuir.  lliough  fome  of  the  bridges  were  built, 
and  the  roads  were  originally  formed,  and  are  dill  kept  in  re- 
pair, with  raonej  coUcdtd  from  the  occupiers  of  land,  in  lieu 
of  the  (latute  labour,  in  terms  of  an  ad  of  parliament  obtained 
for  this  county,  yet  the  public  is  much  indebted,  for  the  coo- 
veniency  of  good  roads  and  fufRcient  bridges,  to  the  benevo-i 
lent  exertions  of  Sir  James  Johnstone.  From  him  the  pro- 
pofition  firll  came  to  throw  a  bridge  over  the  Elk,  at  Lang- 
holm, by  which  the  inhabitants  of  Wefterkirk  have  ready 
accefs  to  the  lime  kills  and  coal  pits  of  Caniiobie  ;  and  his 
attention  is  unremitted,  while  he  refides  in  this  part  of  the 
country,  to  the  reparation  of  the  roads  and  bridges. 

School  and  Poor, — The  fcIu>olma(ler*s  falary  is  xool. 
Scotch  :  The  number  of  fcholars,  at  an  average,  is  about  45 
in  winter,  and  25  in  fummer.  He  receives,  for  teaching 
Englifli,  per  quarter,  is-  6d  ;  for  writing,  as.  6d. ;  for  arith- 
metic, 3s.  6d  ;  and  for  Latin,  5s.  As  feflion-clerk  and  pre- 
centor, he  has  13s.  from  the  feflion  ;  on  every  marriage  he  has 
19.,  on  every  baptifm  4d.,  and  3d.  on  every  certificate  :  Be- 
fidcs,  he  is  collcSor  of  the  aficffment  for  the  poor,  for  which 
he  has  il.  ics.  a  year.  The  office  may  be  worth  about  aal. 
Sterling  per  annum.  Ti}e  number  of  poor  upon  the  roll  at 
prcfont  is  18.     The  annual  amo^mt  of  the  contributions  for 

their 
3 


of  Wejierkirk.  523 

their  relief  la  57I.  6s.  4d.  Of  the  above  affeflment,  the  fef- 
fion  advances  7L  5s.  5d. ;  the  reft  is  paid,  one  half  by  the 
heritors,  and  the  other  by  the  tenants.  There  is  a  fum  of 
160I.  in  ftock,  the  intereft  of  which,  at  4  per  cent,  together 
with  the  colleSions,  the  ufe  of  the  roortcloth,  and  what  fines 
or  penalties  are  exedted  from  defaulters,  enable  the  feflion, 
not  onlj  to  advance  more  than  an  8th  part  of  the  whole  an- 
nual aifeirment,  but  to  provide  clothing  for  fevexal  of  tlie  pau- 
pers, and  to  relieve  fuch  individuals  as  fall  into  circumftan« 
ces  of  diftrefs  between  the  quarterly  meetings.  The  number 
of  poor  upon  the  roll  had  increafcd  no  more  than  2  for  zo 
years  preceding  Candlemas  laft,  whereas  the  afleiTment  was 
nearly  doubled. 

The  number  of  poor  upon  the  roll  in  February  1783,  was  17 
Ditto,  in  February  1793,     -     19 

TIic  quarterly  affeffment,  in  Feb.  1783,  was    J^.  7  15     9 J 
Ditto,  in  Feb.  17931       -         14     6     7 

This  rapid  increafe  of  poor's  rates  may  indeed  be  fomewhat 
alarming  to  thofe  by  whom  the  affcflinent  is  paid.  Trufting 
to  tbcfe  rates,  individuals  are  n«t  fo  folicitous,  perhaps,  as 
they  other  wife  would  be,  to  make  provifion  for  a  time  of 
ficknefs,  a  feafon  of  dearth,  or  the  indigence  of  old  age  ;  and 
this  mode  of  providing  for  the  poor  may  ferve  to  leftcn  that 
attention  to  parents,  and  that  defire  to  provide  for  their  com- 
fortable fubfiftence,  which  are  fo  much  the  duty  of,  and  fo 
very  becoming  in  children:  On  the  other  hand,  fince  this 
method  of  maintaining  the  paupers  commenced,  the  parifh  has 
not  been  much  infeiied  with  vagrants  and  fturdy  beggars  ; 
and  the  ]f>oor  being  thus  provided  for,  live  comfortably  at 
home,  and  are  not  reduced  to  the  neceflTity  of  wandering  up 
and  doiyn  the  country  begging  bread. 

3  U  2  Heritors^ 


5  24  Statifiical  Account 

Heritors^  Slc. — The  property  of  the  parifli  belonfs,  at  pre^ 
fent,  to  4  heritors,  viz.  the  Duke  of  Bacclcagh,  Sir  James 
Johnftone,  Bart.  John  Johnftone,  £fq.  and  Major  Dirom;  of 
whoiD  Sir  James  Johnftone  oolj  refideg,  and  thai  but  oc- 

cafionallj. 

Ecclejiqftical  State.^'-^Tht  manfe  was  rebuilt  In  1 783,  and  is 
in  good  repair :  The  kirk  in  1788,  and  it  is  one  of  the  neaOeft 
and  beft  finiflied  country  churches  in  the  fouth  of  Scotland* 
The  ftipend  was  formerly  70I.  i6s.  td*,  including  4U  3s«  4d* 
for  communion  elements ;  but  an  augmentation  of  4  chalders 
t)f  vidualy  half  meal,  half  barley,  was  obtained  in  February 
laft.  The  glebe  confifts  of  about  19  Engliih  acres,  whidi  the 
prefent  incumbent  inclofed,  and  fubdivided  with  ftone  fences, 
at  an  expence  of  not  lefs  than  lool.  Befides  the  glebe,  die  mi« 
nidcr  has  a  right  of  paftange  for  44  Iheep  on  the  ntighbonr^i 
ing  farm  of  Jiirtonhill. 

Prices  of  Labour^  f/c— The  wages  of  a  man  labourer  are 
^d.  a  day  without  vidluals,  except  when  he  is  employed  as  a 
mower,  and  in  the  time  of  harveft,  when  they  arc  xcxl.  or 
when  he  is  engaged  in  falving  ibeep,  for  which  he  receives  is. 
The  wages  of  women  are  8d.  a  day  in  harveft,  with  oiain* 
tainance,  and  6d.  at  other  times.  The  wages  of  a  mafoo  are 
^s.,  and  thofe  of  a  carpenter  js.  6d.  a  day,  when  tfiey  find 
their  own  victuals.  The  wages  of  men  fervants,  who  eat  in 
the  houfe,  are  from  8  to  10  guineas  a  year ;  and -thofe  of  wo- 
men, from  ^h  los.  to  4  guineas.  The  ihepherds  are  allowed 
grafs  for  a  certain  number  of  flicep,  as  their  wages»  Some  of 
them  have  a  IclTer,  others  a  greater  number,  according  to 
their  iktil  and  the  largenefs  of  the  flock  which  they  tend ; 
^d  the  wages  of  fome  of  them  of  late  jears,  owing  to  the 

high 


of  Wefterkirk.  ^2$ 

liigh  price  of  wool.  Sec.  have  been  little  ifaort  of  rsl»  per  an« 
nixm,  befides  their  maintainancCk 


minerals^  \^c, — ^Therc  is  a  pit  of  excellent  fhell  marl  • 
in  the  farm  of  Megdale^  the  property  of  thq  Duke  of  Buo- 
cletigh.    Little  of  the  matl,  however,  is  ufed,  becaofe  it  can- 
not be  got  for  monej,  but  muft  be  afked  as  a  favour ;  and  the 
tenant  is  naturally  averfe  to  the  trefpals  which  horfes  would 
cccalion,  bj  being  brought  upon  his  grounds  to  carry  it  off; 
befides  the  pit  is  fituated  in  the  declivity  of  a  hill,  and  by  no 
means  of  e^fy  accefs.  Sir  James  Johnftone  had,  for  more  than 
30  years  back,  been  in  fearch  of  lead  in  the  grounds  of  Glen- 
dinning.     In  the  year  1788,  metal  was  difcovered  ;  but,  up- 
on trialy  ic  was  found  to  be  antimony.     Antimony^  ihefubium 
of  the  ancients,  by  the  Greeks  called  frtfifih  is  found  in  Hun- 
gary, in  Germany,  in  France,  in  Rullia,  and  in  Siberia ;  but  this 
is  the  only  mine  of  antimony  that  has,  as  yet,  been  difcovered 
iti  Great  Britain.    The  reafon  of  its  modern  denomination  is 
referred  to  £ajil  Valentine^  a  German  monk,  who,  as  the  tra- 
dition relates,  having  thrown  fome  of  it  to  the  hogs,  obferv- 
cd  that,  after  it  had  purged  them  haftily,  they  immediately 
fattened ;  and  therefore  imagined  his  fellow  monks  would  be 
the  better  for  a  like  dofe.     The  experiment,  however,  fuc- 
ceeded  fo  iU,  that  they  all  died  of  it ;  and  the  medicine  was 
henceforward  called  antimoine^  antimonk  f*    Of  the  mines  in 

the 


*  About  50  ytxn  ago,  one  of  the  tenants  of  Glendiaoing  (  mjuiured  part  of 
bis  arable  land  with  marl  from  this  pit.  His  neighbour  did  not  make  the  es- 
perimant ;  and  that  part  of  the  field  on  which  the  marl  was  laid,  is  diiUnguKh^ 
cd  from  the  other,  even  to  this  day,  by  producing  a  more  luxuriant  crop. 

f  Johnfon*s  Di^Ionarj ;  vide  Antimony, 

\  Tbit  plaee^  in  former  times,  a*m$  named  Glcndonwjo,  and  hat  been  aU 
ready  mentioned. 


526  Statifilcal  Account 

the  grounds  of  Glendinning^  Sir  James  Johnllone  retains  two 
fourth  (hares.  He  has  let  one  fourth  (bare  to  Captain  Cocfaras, 
and  another  to  Mr.  Tait.  The  company  has  built  a  fmelting 
houfe  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  mines,  in  which  the  ore  is 
manufaflurod.  It  is  made  into  Jtdphurated  antimony^  and  rr- 
gulus  (xf  antimony.  When  the  ore  is  beaten  fmall,  and  wafli- 
edf  it  is  put  into  an  earthen  pot,  the  bottom  of  which  is  per- 
forated with  a  number  of  holes.  This  pot  is  let  into  the 
mouth  of  another,  which  ferves  as  a  receiver.  They  arc  then 
put  into  the  furnace ;  and  feveral  fets  of  this  apparatus  are 
commonly  worked  at  once.  The  fluid  antimony  pafTes  through 
the  holes  into  the  undermoft  pot,  while  the  unfuiible  matters 
remain  in  the  uppermofl:  What  is  found  in  the  undermoft 
pot,  when  the  procefs  is  finilhed|  is  called  fulpburaud  antu 
monym 

Regulut  of  antimony  is  prepared  in  the  following  manner. 
The  ore,  when  beaten  fmall  and  waflied,  is  put  into  a  cruci- 
ble, and,  along  with  it,  a  certain  preparation  of  iron,  and  an 
alkaline  flux:  the  crucible  is  then  placed  in  a  furnace  ;  and 
the  iron  having  a  greater  affinity  to  the  fulphur,  than  the  ful- 
phur  has  to  the  ore,  feparates  the  one  from  the  other,  mak- 
ing the  fulphur  fwim  sn  the  top  of  the  fluid  metal ;  TTic 
matter  in  the  crucible,  when  fuflSciently  heated,  is  poured  in- 
to a  caft  iron  cone,  from  which  it  is  taken  when  cooled,  and 
th6h  the  fulphur  readily  feparates  from  the  metal.  The  me- 
tal is  again  beaten  into  fmall  pieces,  put  a  fecond  time  into 
a  crucible  in  the  furnace,  and  melted,  with  a  mixture  of  anti- 
mony and  an  alkaline  flux  ;  it  is  then  poured  into  a  vefTel  of  a 
conical  fhape,  from  which  it  is  taken,  when  cooled,  having 
the  form  of  a  large  fugar  loaf^  and  a  fine  flarry  furfacc-  Its 
texture  is  full  of  little  fhining  veins,  or  threads,  like  needles^ 
and  is  brittle  as  glafs.  Regulus  of  antimony  is  a  common  in- 
gredient in  fpeculums,  in  bell  metal,  in  types  for  printing,  &c» 

The 


of  Wefterkirh  527 

The    fulphurated  antimonj  is  fold  at  42I.,  the  rcgulus  of 
antlmoDy  at  8^1.  per  ton. 

Miners^  Village^  \Sc* — ^Tliere  are  4  0  people,  exclufive  of  an 
overfeer,  employed  at  prefent  in  the  mines,  and  in  preparing 
the  antimonj.  A  miner's  wages  are  from  23I.  to  26I.  a  year, 
and,  as  fuch,  he  enjoys  many  other  advantages*  The  com- 
pany l\as  built  a  village,  which  is  pleafantly  fituated  on  the 
banks  of  the  Megget,  and  named  James*  7ow«,  in  which 
every  miner  is  provided  with  a  comfortable  lodging  for  him- 
felf  and  his  family,  at  a  moderate  rent :  He  has  grafs  for  a 
cow,  during  the  fummer,  for  which  he  pays  no  more  than  aos., 
and  I  OS.  for  coarfe  hay  for  her  provifion  in  the  winter;  and 
may  have  as  much  land  as  he  has  occafion  for,  at  the  rate  of 
10s.  per  acre,  for  cultivating  cabbages  and  potatoes.  A  ftore- 
houfe  is  built  by  the  company,  in  which  they  mean  to  lay  up 
grain  when  the  prices  are  low,  and  fell  it  out  to  the  workmen^ 
at  all  times,  even  in  a  fcafon  of  dearth  and  fcarcity,  at  the 
rate  at  which  it  was  purchafed.  The  miners  are  at  work 
only  6  hours  a-day  ;  and,  to  encourage  them  to  read,  a  pre- 
fent was,  fome  months  ago,  made  them  in  books,  by  the  com- 
pany, to  the  value  of  1 5I. ;  and  thefe,  with  others,  which  the 
workmen  have  fince  been  able  to  purdiafe,  amount  at  prefent 
to  120  volumes.  To  render  the  fituation  of  the  miners  aft 
comfortable  as  poflible,  the  company  has  built  a  fchool-houfe, 
for  the  purpofe  of  having  their  children  educated;  has  grant- 
ed confiderable  advantages  to  the  teacher,  and  purpofes  to 
give  zcl.  per  annum,  to  which  each  of  the  workmen  is  to  add 
Is.  a  quarter,  as  a  fund  for  the  relief  of  fuch  individuals 
among  them,  as  may  be  difqualified  for  following  their  cm« 
ployment  by  ficknefs  and  old  age.  We  wifli  fuccefs  to  this, 
undertaking.  The  mining  company  not  only  finds  employ- 
went  to  many  individuals^  but  has  done  an  eifential  fervice  t© 

the 


j^28  Statlftical  Account 

the  pablic,  bj  making  an  excellent  road,  along  the  E.  fide  of 
Meggct,  between  James*  Town  and  Waulk-Mill;  and»  in  the 
line  of  this  road,  which  is  three  miles  and  a  half,  has  bmk 
4  ft<me  bridges^  of  one  arch  each. 

EmifUfU  Men^  &c. — The  prefent  family  of  Wefterhall  arc 
all  natives  of  the  pariih  ;  and  they  have  diftinguiihed  thcm- 
felves  much,  and  are  well  known  in  the  world.  Mr  Pulte- 
VET,  who  married  the  heirefs  of  Bath,  is  one  of  this  family, 
as  was  the  late  Governor  Johkstone,  whofe  bravery  as  an 
officer,  and  whofe  information  and  eloquence  as  a  (bnator,  are 
fufficiently  known,  and  wiU  long  be  remembered.  Here, 
too,  are  depofited  his  remains,  over  which,  and  many  of  his 
anceftors,  John  Johnftone  of  Alva,  £fq.  has  ercded  a  very 
elegant  mau/okum.  This  is  a  piece  of  excellent  architedare, 
and  muff  have  cod  700I.  or  thereabout.  The  pariih  gave 
birth  alfo  to  Commodore  Paslet,  who  at  this  inilant  com* 
mands  the  firit  divifion  of  the  van  fquadron  of  Lord  Howe^s 
fleet,  as  it  lies  in  line  of  battle  at  Torbay. 

jtntiptiiief. -^Be&dts  the  remams  of  the  Druidical  temple 
above  .mentioned,  veftiges  of  encampments  may  be  traced  on 
the  tops  of  feveral  of  the  hills  in  the  N.  W.  end  of  the  pa- 
rifh.  Thefe  feem  to  have  been  out  ftations  of  the  Roman 
camp,  which  bears  the  name  of  Cq/lle*o*er^  in  the  S.  end  of 
the  pariih  of  Eikdalemuir ;  and  there  are  others  along  the 
banks  of  the  £(k,  which  were  probably  formed  as  part  of  a 
chain  of  communication  between  Caftle-o'er  and  die  camp  ac 
Netherbie,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Langtown.  There  is 
a  great  number  of  burians  in  the  parifh.  Thefe  are  all  of  a 
circular  form,  and  are  from  36  to  50  yards  diameter*.     On 

the 

^  They  are  fuppofed  by  fome  to  be  remains  of  PkliHi  encampments ;  otht  n 

thiri 


^f  WeJierkirL  .  549- 

On    the  fisirm  of  Enzieholm,  there  are  the  remains  of  an  old 

fbtrrification,  of  a  triangular  form.     It  has  the  appearance  of  ' 

gre&t  antiquity,  and  has  undoubtedly  been  a  place  oi  .very  . 

confiderable  ftrength  ;  but  it  is  fo  much  fallen  into  ruins,  that  - 

no  probable  conjedure  ca»  now  be  formed,  either  of  the  time 

^wtien  it  was  built,  or  by  whom  it  was  pofiefled.     There  are  . 

veftiges  of  an  old  tower,  or  caftle,  at  Glendinning,  and  tho 

Tenoains  of  another  at  Wefterhall« 

fFo9i/.-^About  50  j^ears  ago,  the  pariih  was  much  better 
ilored  with  wood  than  it  is  now.  From  the  S.  £•  end  of  it, 
however,  to  about  a  mile  beyond  the  church,  there  is  a  con.* 
fidcrable  quantity  of  natural  wood  along  the  banks  of  the 
£ik,  and  feveral  thriring  plantatidbs  on  the  eflates  of  Craigs, 
Dowglen  and  Wefterhall ;  at  the  laft  of  which  places,  there 
^re  many  very  venerable  aihes  and  plane  trees. 

n 

Diffo/is^There  are  no  difea&s  peculiar  to  the  pariik** 
Tht  rbeumati/m  2nd  tuberculous  pbtbifis  are|  the  moil  preva*.* 
lent.     The  pradice  of  inoculation  has,  for  many  yeaxs,  been- 
very  general,  and  very  fuccefsful. 
X 

Vol,  XI.  3X  mid. 


th'nk  that  they  #ere  places  of  ilrength,  into  which  the  inhabitants  coUeAed 
tbeir  cattle,  when  alaraofid  with  a  yifiution  from  the  EngUfli  Borderen ;  and 
many  are  of  opihion  that  they  were  formed  for  the  purpofe  of  proteAing  th« 
cattle,  during  the  night,  from  the  ravages  of  wild  beafts,  when  this  country  was 
moftly  covered  with  wood.  The  laft  of  thefe  fuppofitions  feems  to  receive  fome 
roootenance  from  the  following  circumftances,  that  there  is  a  burian  on  almoft 
trery  farm,  and  that  its  fituation,  in  general,  is  on  the  firft  piece  of  dry  or  rifinfi 
ground  that  is  to  be  met  with  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  farm-Head,  e^ieciallf 
Vhcn  fof^h  a  fitnation  is  rendered  the  more  iuacceffible,  by  the  baitk  of  the  river, 
§f  foroe  other  adjoining  precipice. 


530  Siatsftical  Account 

Wild  Ammals* — ^There  are  haves,  rabUtSy  and  fooac  iofxa 
in  the  pariih.  We  have  the  /waBwa,  the  wood-cock,  the 
cacioCf  and  other  migratorj  birds,  in  their  feafoos.  Part- 
ridges have  not  been  fo  numerous  for  fome  years  as  thej 
fomierlj  were.  The  moor^oci  an4  iem  are  natives,  and  in 
confiderable  numbers ;  but  the  black-^bck.  is  ieldom  to  be 
met  with. 

Ftf^/.— i-Peat  was  the  onlj  fuel  formerly  in  ufe  i  but  as  mois 
is  no-where  to  be  found  in  anj  confiderable  quantity,  except 
on  the  tops  of  the  hills,  (and  is  therefore  of  difficuk  acceis), 
and  as  peats  cannot  be  properly  got  in  rainy  feafons,  axMl  efpe- 
cially  as  a  road  for  carts  is  now  opened  into  the  parilk  of  Can- 
nobie,  where  coals  are  workted,  thefe  are  become  part  of  the 
fuel  ufed  in  almoft  every  family. 

Prices  of  Grain^'^^'Tht  pric^of  grain  was  remarkably  higft 
laft  feafon.  Oatmeal  foM  at  is.  8d.  a  ftone,  of  ifi  lbs.;  yet 
none  that  the  wviter  knows  of  were  in  danger  of  periihbg 
for  want.  The  meal  is  now  felling  at  2s.  the  ftone,  and  the 
price  is  ezpeded  to  be  ftill  lower,  as  there  has  not  been,  per- 
haps,  in  the  memory  of  man,  a  more  plentiftl  crop  of  oats 
and  barley,  in  this  part  of  the  country,  than  the  prefent, 
which,  within  the  bounds  of  the  pariih,  is  now  lOSober  ai.] 
almoft  gathered  itv,  and  in  excellent  order. 

CharaStr^  £cc. — The  inhabitants  of  Wefterkirk  have  long 
been  remarked  for  decency  and  regularity  of  condud.  They 
are,  in  general,  religious  without  fuperftition,  and  charitable 
without  oftentation,  and  temperate  almoft  without  exception. 
None  of  the  poor  are  reduced  to  the  necellity  of  begging 
bread:  in  what  they  receive  from  the  pariihi  and  what  they 


af  Wejlerkirk.  531 

can  earn,  they  have  a  comfortable  fubfiftence  ;  and  many  of 
the  tenants  are  men  of  very  confiderable  property.  The  dif- 
fentersy  of  all  denominations,  do  not  amount  to  more  than 
10.  There  are  4  ale-houfes  in  the  parifli;  but  thcfe  are  little 
frequented ;  nor  do  thofe  who  keep  them  depend  much  on  the 
profits  of  this  employment  for  the  fupport  of  their  families. 


3X1  NUM- 


53^    .  ^atjfticid  Accoutd 


NUMBER    XLV, 
PARISH    OF    NEWTGNT. 

{County  of  EdMurgl — PreJlyUry  of  DaUeith — Symod  9f 
Lothian  and  TweedJalc.') 

By  John  Maiit,  D.  D.  Minifier. 


Fofulaiion. 

A  CCORSING  to  Dr.  Webfter's  reportt  the  number  of 
fouU  in  this  pftrifb,  in  the  year  1755,  was        -       1x59 
Bj  an  exad  lift,  taken  in  June  lad  (1795)1  ^^  ^''^ 
found  to  be  reduced  to  •  •  «  Z13J 

Hence  there  is  a  decreafe  of        *         «         -        64 

Of  the  above  number  there  are        Males.    Females.     TotaL 
Under  8  jears  of  age,        -        •       147  150  297 

Above  that  period  of  life,        «        4x0  428  838 

In  all,  «  -        557  578        113s 

The 


of  Newton.  533 

The  miinber  of  femiltes  is,  -  «  «         239 

A.onual  average  of  bapdfms  for  the  lad  zc  years,         -       43 

>    I  -  marriages*,  -  -  -»     xo 

Proprietors. — ^Tbere  are  4  heritors  in  the  parifh  ;  the  Duke 
of  Buccleugh,  the  Earl  of  Wemjrs,  Mr.  Wauchope  of  £d« 
xnonftoney  and  his  eldeft  fon. 

Ecclefiaftical  State. — ^Mr.  Wauchope  is  patron  of  the  par- 
rilb.  The  ftipend,  which  confifts  (of  money  and  grain,  in- 
clttdiog  loo  merks  Scotch,  as  the  intereft  of  mortified  monej^ 
and  the  allowance  for  communion  elements,  may  be  reckoned^ 
at  90  average  about  zo6L  per  annum.  The  glebe  confiffs  of 
7  acres,  z  rood,  and  31  falls  of  good  arable  land,  lying  very 
conveniently  round  the  manfe,^  and  all  lately  inclofed  with  a 
hedge,  by  the  prefent  incumbent.  The  church  was  built  in 
the  year  1741,  and  is  fituated  very  nearly  in  the  centre,  no 
part  of  which  can  be  (aid  to  be  more  than  a  mile  and  a  half 
dillant  from  it.  The  manfe  was  built  in  the  year  1749,  and 
ftands  within  lefs  than  htdf  a  mile  of  the  church,  towards 
the£. 

SclooL — ^The  fchoolmafter^s  falary  is  rool.  Scotch,  The 
number  of  fcholars,  at  an  average  of  20  years,  amounts  to  4S; 
and  the  prhole  of  his  income,  including  the  falary,  fchool  dues, 
and  the  emoluments  of  the  fei&on  clerk's  office,  may  be  reck- 
ooed,  at  an  average  of  that  period,  no  more  than  24!.  per 
annunu 

Poor^ 


*  No  regular  regifter  of  funerals  bas  been  kept  for  fome  time  paft.  They 
can  onlj  be  colledted  from  the  treafurer's  accounts,  who  charges  birafelf  with 
the  dues  of  the  mortclothi,  which  he  has  received.  This  account  muft.have  been, 
Jbr  (bme  time  paft,^  very  deficient,  owing  t»  a  ciicumftaace,  which  wiU  be  «»• 
plsiacd  afterwards,  ^  the  explanation  may  be  ufeful  to  other  pariifaes. 


534  Statifiical  Account 

Poor—- -The  average  of  fiated  penfioners  on  the  poot*s  roll, 
for  the  laft  zo  years,  is  X4.  The  expenditure  on  thefe,  in« 
eluding  occafional  fapplies  to  others,  and  the  falaries  of  feffion 
derict  precentor,  beadle,  fynod  and  prelbyterj  clerks,  and 
pNtbytery  officer,  amounts,  at  an  arerage,  to  41I.  per  annum. 
The  money  at  prefent  in  the  kirk  treafurer*s  hands,  is  a  mere 
trifle*  The  poor,  however,  have  been,  hitherto,  maiouined 
pretty  decently,  by  the  funds  arifing  from  'the  weekly  coDcc- 
tionsv  and  from  ttie  ufe  of  the  parilh  mortcloths,  without  hav- 
ing  recourfe  to  any  afltiTment  for  that  purpofe,  though  not 
without  the  necellity  of  frequent  encroachments  on  the  very 
(mall  capital  in  the  treafurer's  hands. 

Charitable  Sociitiei  and  Mortcloths. ^^The  body  of  colKers^ 
in  this  pariih  have  been  in  ufe  to  keep  what  they  call  a  box^ 
firom  which  they  allow  an  aliment,  or  fupport,  to  fuch  of  the 
contributors  as  are  laid  afide  from  work  by  iicknefs.  This, 
no  doubt,  afforded  a  temporary  relief  to  the  pariQi  funds. 
But  when  the  contributor  dies,  there  is  no  provifion  made 
for  the  widow  and  family,  who  mud,  confequently,  fall  a  bur- 
den on  thcfe  funds.  They  purchafed,  fome  years  ago,  from 
this  dock,  a  fet  of  mortcloths,  the  ufe  of  which  was  given, 
gratis^  to  the  contributors.  The  body  of  cart^rs^  who  have  a 
fund  of  the  fame  kind,  within  thcfe  a  or  3  years,  followed 
their  example.  As  the  great  body  of  the  parifli  fendfts  of 
thefe  two  defcriptions  of  people,  the  kirk*feflIon  forefaw,  that 
this  praAice,  if  allowed  to  continue,  would  foon  go  nearly  to 
extioguifli  altogether  the  funds  arifing  from  the  ufe  of  the.  pa- 
rifli mortcloths.  They  communicated  their  ideas  on  this  cir- 
cumJlance  to  the  heritors  of  the  parilh,  who  unanimoufly  agreed 
to  concur  with  the  kirk-fefiion  in  trjiag>  the  point  of  law  on 
this  fubjed,  and  to  defray  the  whole  expence  that  fliould  be 
ancnrred  on  this^  occaiion.    The  cetghbmtring  parilh  of  Liber- 

on, 


of  N€wton.  535 

ton,  who  were  in  the  fame  fimation,  joined  ia  dw  procefs.  Ac* 
cordiogljy^ -decree  of  the  Court  of  Seffion,  dated  November 
3otb  X792»  was  obtaised^  ^'ftridlj  prohibiting  the  nie  of  anj 
**  but  the  pariih  mortcloths."  Notwithftanding  this  decifioa 
in  their  &voar,  the  kirk-feffioo.  in  confideration  of  that  de» 
gree  of  relief  which  they  were  fenfible  the  parifli  funds  de- 
rived fr6m  thefe  boxes,  by  maintaining  decently  fuch  of  the 
contributors  as  may  be  laid  afide,  by  accident  or  difeafe,  were 
willing  to  grant  them  fome  indulgence.  Accordingly,  after 
having  obtained  the  full  con&nt  of  all  the  heritors,  they  agreed 
to  allow  them  the  ufe  of  their  own  mortclotbs  for  the  fpace  of 
30  years,  by  which  time  their  pcefeat  mortclotbs  may  be  fup- 
pofied  to  be  worn  out ;  on  condition  that,  at  every  time  any 
of  them  are  ufed,  they  pay  to  the  kirk  treafurer,  for  the  be* 
nefit  of  the  poor,  the  moderate  fum  of  4s.$  it  being  expreisly 
underftoodj  that  this  indulgence  Ihall  continue  only  during  the 
continuance  of  that  sud  which  they  have  been  accuftomed  to 
give  to  the  parifli  funds ;  but,  that  the  moment  any  of  thefe 
•boxes  are  given  up,  and  confequently  that  aid  is  withdrawn, 
this  indulgence  fhall  be  at  an  end  i  and  the  kirk-fei&on,  ia 
that  event,  ari^  determined  immediately  to  avail  themfelves  of 
the  fight  which  they  now  poflefs,  by  virtue  of  this  decree. 

« 
CbJEISrrM/.— -Coal  works  have  been  very  long  carried  on  here. 
The  following  ftate  of  the  feams  of  coal  is  given  from  the  beft 
authority :  There  are  no  le(s  than  19  different  feams  that  run 
through  this  pariib,,  ftretching  nearly  N.  and  S.  Six  of  thefe 
(earns  are  termed,/b||,  becaufe  they  lie  in  a  horizontal  pofitioBt 
and  make  but  a  fmall  angle  with  the  horizon ;  dipping  to  the 
eaftward,  i  in  10,  and  ibmetimes  i  in  15  or  ao  feet.  The  other 
13  are  called  edgif§a^s^  owing  to  the  pofition  in  which  they 
ftand,  runnbg  down  from  the  earth's  forface  in  a  perpendicu* 
lar  direftiony  and  making  an  angle  of  near  50  degrees  with 

the 


536  Stati/tical  Account 

the  horizon.  Thefe  feamt  vmrj  in  their  thicknefles.  The 
thickeft  of  the  flat  feams  are  about  4  feet,  and  the  thinneft 
about  aT.  The  thickeft  of  the  edge  feams  are  about  9  or  10 
feety  and  the  thioneft  about  a.  All  of  thefie  feams  have  been 
already  wrought  in  part ;  feme  of  them  probaUj  aoo  jcars 
ago  ;  fereral  of  them  by  levels  taken  from  the  fea,  and  ocheit 
by  lerels  from  the  loweft  pacts  of  thefe  lands.  SoQse  of  the 
fat  feams,  which  are  of  die  bed  quality,  have  beeii  wrought 
^f  late,  and  aii|.ftill  working  by  fire  engines,  and  oilier  ma- 
chinery, a6  fathoms  perpendicular  depth  below  the  iau  There 
fiill  remain  to  be  wrought  a  great  quantity  of  thefe  feams; 
which,  if  ever  attempted  in  any  future  period,  will  require 
very  powerful  fire  engines  to  drain  the  water  from  them,  and 
confequently  a  great  outlay  of  mooey,  befoie  thefe  coals  cai| 
be  brought  to  market. 

Wages  and  CbaraOer. — The  bufinds  of  a  collier  feems  te 
l>e  a  very  lucrative  one.  Each  of  them  may  earn  i8s.  or 
«05.  |>er  week*  It  is  however  matter  of  mnch  regret,  that 
very  tew  inftances  are  known,  of  fuch  as  are  fo  attentive  as  to 
Cive  any  thing  at  all.  On  the  contrary,  it  is  .the  heavy  com- 
plaint of  all  the  coal-mafters,  that  a  collier  will  work  nona, 
fo  long  "as  he  has  any  money  in  his  pocket*  This  is  the  real 
reaibn  of  the  fcarcity  of  that  article,  which  was  fo  deeply  and 
univerfally  felt  during  the  coorfe  of  laft  winter, 

^irff^iVi/i.— The  only  antiquity  hioftf  that  deferves  to  be 
taken  notice  of,  is  a  very  fflgh  ridge,  oiyu  circular  form,  and 
of  confiderable  extent,  which  evidently  appears  to  be  altoge- 
ther artificial.  The  people  of  the  country  have  always  called 
it  **  T%e  Kaim,**  a  corruption,  it  is  Cuppoled,  of  tl^e  word 
Camp,  If  it  is  the  remains  of  a  camp,  it  could  not  be  a^oman 
one,  as  it  is  well  known  that  their  camps  were  of  a  Square  form. 

NUM* 


tf  Roherton^  jj-* 

NUMBER     XLVI* 

« 

Parish  of  roberton. 


(Counties  of  Selkirk  and  Roxhurgb — Prejbytery  of  Seliirt'm 
Synod  of  Mer/e  and  Tevioida/e.^ 


My  the  Rev.  Mr.  Jamks  HAt,  Miniver* 


Situation^  Extent^  Rivers^  Lakes,  and  Tijb. 

THE  pariih  of  Roberton,  in  the  prcibjterj  of  Selkirk^ 
lies  in  the  weffem  extremities  of  the  (hires  of  Rox« 
Viirgh  and  Selkirk,  where  they  march  with  the  county  of 
Dumfries.  It  is  eflimated  about  thirteen  miles  in  length, 
and  fix  in  breadth.— —I'he  water  of  Borthwick^  running 
to  the  £•  frocQ  the  high  grounds,  where  the  (hires  of  Sel- 
kirk and  D'umfrieis  meet,  divides  the  pari(h  into  two  parts^ 
nearly  equaL  The  water,  Ak^  flowing  from  a  beautiful  cir- 
cular lake,  of  neatly  %  miles  in  circumference,  in  the  N.  W. 
quarter  of  the  pari(h,  holds,  while  in  it,  a  courfe  ne&rly  pa« 
rallel  to  the  Borthwick,  from  which  it  is  about  i  miles  dif- 
tant- — Befides  Alemuir  Loch,  there  are  feveral  fisialler  lakes, 
in  which  there  is  abundance  of  fine  perch  and  pike  i  and  ia 
•ne  there  is  to  be  found  an  excellent  red  trout,  much  refemb*^ 
Vol.  XL  5  Y  fing 


538  Siaufticat  Accomi 

ling  that  of  Lochlevcn.  The  waters,  Bortfawidc  sad  Ale, 
augmented  in  their  courfe  by  a  great  number  of  rivulets, 
abound  with  trooCs  of  the  baft  qaalitj  ;  bat  it  is  fxAj  in  the 
fpawning  feafon  that  thcj  are  Tifited  hj  falmon. 

Gami^  Woods,  and  Mqffism  The  diverfion  of  (hooting  maj 
here  be  as  much  enjoyed  as  that  of  angling,  as  there  is  plenty 
of  all  the  common  kinds  of  game. — That  the  part  of  this  pa- 
lilh  lying  in  the  fiiire  of  Selkirk,  was  within  the  bounds  of 
the  royal  foreft,  appears  from  the  valuation  of  the  land.  The 
Taluations,  in*  proportion  to  prefent  rents,  are  uniformly 
higher  in  Selkirk-(hire  than  in  Roxburgh->(hire.  At  prefent, 
there  is  but  little  wood  in  the  parifli :  In  a  few  years  the  banks 
of  the  Borthwick  will  be  more  covered,  as  fome  proprietors 
are  at  prefent  rearing  oonfiderable  plantations. — Mofies  are 
numerous  ;  almoll  every  farm  has  its  particular  mofs.  The 
sninifter  has  the  privilege  of  cafting  peats,  by  a  yearly  rota- 
tion, in  no  le&  than  5  of  them.  The  marl,  found  in  fome  of 
thefe  mofles  already  drained,  is  of  the  heft  (hell  kind ;  and 
has,  for  many  years,  been  profitably  ufed.  Peats  Tary  much 
in  quality  in  the  different  mofles. 

Surface  and  5oi/.— The  pariih  b  hilly ;  but  there  is  no 
hill  of  extraordinary  magnitude  or  height  in  it*  From 
the  Borthwick  and  the  Ale,  the  land  rifes  by  a  gentle  afcent. 
The  lower  grounds  are  in  a  ftate  of  cultivation,  and  there 
are  fome  fpots  of  planting  along  the  Borthwick ;  the  higher 
grounds  are  employed  in  pafturage ;  the  fummits  between  the 
Ale  on  the  N«,  and  the  Teviot  on  the  S.,  are,  in  part,  mofly, 
but  generally  covered  with  grals  or  heath  ;  and  thofe  fpots, 
only,  where  moffes  are  wrought,  appear  black.  Cra(s  is  pre- 
dominant ;  and  the  general  appearance  of  the  pariih,  to  the 
eye,  is  that  of  grafly  hills.-— The  foil,  locally  varybg,  is,  in 

general. 


rf  Riherton.  539 

generaly  of  good  quality.  The  greateft  part>  even  of  thd 
higher  grottods,  k  ^a  hard  gravellyy  or  rocky  bottom.  In 
the  higheft  and  weftera  part  of  the  parifiiy  there  is  a  confider- 
able  proportion  of  wet  and  boggy  land.  From  land,  which 
has  a  foutfaem  expofure,  has  been  drained,  or  is  naturally 
dry,  cropa  have  been  raifed  as  early,  and  as  good,  as  from 
Janda  many  miles  lower  down  the  country.  The  peculiar 
fitnefs  of  the  fo^I,  for  the  pafturage  of  (heep,  is  evinced  by 
their  reputatioa  in  the  country  for  foundaefs,  for  carcafe,  and 
for  wooL 

CltmaU  and  Difeafes^  \Sc. — The  fituation  of  the  parilh, 
nearly  centrical  between  the  £.  and  W.  feas,  fufficiently  in- 
dicates the  nature  of  the  elimate*^— Though  this  parilh  ap- 
pears level,  when  viewed  from  heights,  greatly  infenor  to  the 
Ettrick  hiUs  on  the  Nm  and  tfaofe  of  Ltddifdale  on  the  S  ; 
yet  it  is  £b  high,  as  always  to  intercept  fome  portion  of  the 
moifture  of  thofe  heavy  clouds,  which  are  fo  often  feen  attraft« 
ed  to  either  or  to  both  of  thefe  quarters.  The  autumnal  rains 
are  particularly  violent, 0knd  fometimes  of  long  duration.    In 
the  monihs  of  November  and  December,  they  are  accom^ 
panicd  with  fuch  boifterous  winds,  that  only  a  few  houfes 
can  perfeAly  exclude  the  waters  of  the  weftern  temped.  There 
arc  inftances  of  houfes,  built  with  lime,  and  judged  fufficient, 
through  which  theie  rains  force  their  way  every  winter.  The 
noxious  effe&s  of  a  damp  atmofpfaere  were  formerly  prevent- 
ed by  the  copious  ufe  of  fpirits,  and  now  by  better  houfes 
and  clothing ;  but  flannel  is  little,  if  ever,  ufed  by  the  labour. 
log  people,  among  whom  rheumatifm  is  a  general  complaint, 

3  Y  a  almoft 


*  At  Beakxsolm,  in  the  immediate  ticioity,  j>  more  rain  falk  than  at  DaU 
keith ;  and  f  more  at  Langholm,  iS  miUs  W.  gf  Bran«lioIm|  than  at  it.  Vid^ 
J^irt,  PbiL  Tranf.  Vol.  /. 


540  Statiftical  Account 

dmoft  invarlftbl/  accompaoying  the  decline  of  life.  Uokfii 
(he  weather  be  teinpellttoosy  the  kboun  of  the  fidd  mre  nevci 
interraptedy  on  account  of  acafual,  though  heavy  rain.  Not- 
withilanding  the  great  moifiure  of  the  clinatev  to  which  the 
labouring  inhabitants  are  expofed,  thej  are  healthy,  robufi, 
and  generally  reach  a  good  old  age.  No  inftances  of  rare  Ion* 
gevity  occur ;  but  there  were  recent,  and  there  are  exifting 
examples  of  great  vigour  and  aCtivity»  in  perfons  who  hare 
feen  fpurfcore  years, 

Produce  and  Cultivation. — ^AU  the  ordinary  kinds  of  grain, 
pndfometimeswheaty  are  raifedinthe  parilh,  but  it  is  thought 
not  i^  proportion  to  the  confumption.  The  mode  of  culture 
has,  of  la^,  been  greatly  reformed  by  the  introduSion  of 
green  crops,  grafs  feeds,  and  efpecially  the  judicioua  ufe  of 
marl.  There  is,  perhaps,  too  great  a  proportion  of  the  arable 
land  ftill  kept  in  tillage  ;  but  this  is  a  miftakd,  which  is  be^ 
coming  pvery  year  more  obvious,  and  will  foon  be  correfied. 
^uch  of  the  land  is  fit  for  the  growth  of  flax ;  but  its  cul- 
ture muft  be  neglefted,  as  upprodudive,  till  a  flax  mill  be 
ereded  fome where  in  the  neighbourhood.  It  is  far  the 
breeding  an4  feeding  of  flieep,  that  the  foil  and  climate  are  bed 
adapted,  and  to  which,  accordingly,  the  chief  attention  of  the 
inhabitants  is  direfied.  The  iheep  paflure  has  been  greatly 
meliorated,  by  the  burning  of  heath,  draining  of  wet  lands, 
and  ufe  of  marl  *« 

Proprietors  and  /?«»/.— There  sre  ii  heritors  ;  4  of  whom 
have  hoi^fes,  and  generally  reiide  in  the  pariih.   Que  manfion- 

houf^ 

*  For  breed,  management,  Stc.  of  (beep,  crops,  rates  of  wages,  prices  of 
pTOvifions,  Sec.  fee  Statiftical  Account  of  the  pariih  of  Hawick,  Fo/.  YIIL 
yum*  3a.    Hawick  is  the  market  town  of  this  diftriA. 


of  Roberlon^  54I 

liOttfc,  formerlj  the  feat  of  an  ancient  family,  is  falling  into 
rains.  The  valaed  rfent  is  zo,95oK  Scotch  $  the  prefent  adual 
rent  exceeds  3CO0I.  Sterling. 

Caith.'^-'The  number  of  cattle  is  computed  to  be,  as  under; 
iSyOCO  flieepi         358  black  cattle,         127  horfes; 

Produce. — ^There  are  358  bolls  of  grain  yearly  fown,  and 
95  P^cks  of  wool  annually  fold. 

Fuel. — ^Peats  are  the  principal  fuel,  and  are  reckoned  at 
dear  as  coals  from  Lothian  or  Northumberland,  a  diftance  of 
30  miles.  The  convenience  of  this  fpecies  of  fuel,  its  being 
near  at  hand,  and  procured  at  a  feafon,  when  fervants  upon 
farms  could  not  be  otherwife  fo  profitably  employed,  give  it 
the  preference ;  and  cottagers,  living  near  moffes,  mak&  it  a 
bufinefs,  through  the  year,  to  carry  peats  from  the  diftance 
of  8,  and  even  fometimes  14  miles,  to  Hawick ;  where  they 
are  fold,  at  the  rate  of  from  3s.  to  4s.  the  fingle  cart  load| 
and  from  is.  3d^  to  xs«  6d.  the  back  load. 

Roads. — ^The  expeoce  of  fuel  is  heightened  by  the  badnefs 
of  thic  roads.  The  principal  road  in  the  pariih*  and  the  moft 
direft  one  from  Dumfries,  &c.  to  the  towns  of  Hawick,  Scl* 
I;.irk»  Sec.  is  along  the  Borthwick,  but  if  made  only  half  way 
up  this  pariih,  and  not  even  formed  where  it  enters  that  of 
Wilton.  The  gentlemen  of  Dumfries-ihire  have  carried  thi« 
line  of  road  nearly  to  the  confines  of  their  own  county  y  and 
it  is  to  be  regretted,  that  they  have  not  been  fcconded  by  pro- 
prietors of  land  in  the  counties  on  the  £.,  in  a  meafure  of 
fuch  obvious  importance.  The  heritors  of  Roberton  are  ^t 
prefj:i)t  improving,  at  a  great  expence,  their  part  of  this  road, 

and 


541  Stati/iical  Jccount 

mud  founiog  fo«io  olhen*  The  road  mooej,  for  die  K»z« 
bttrgh»ibir«  p»rt  of  tbb  parilli^  is  levied  by  an  affeffmciit  of 
from  7$.  to  ids.  on  the  lool.  Scotch  of  yalued  rent :  For  thai 
an  Selkirk-fliire,  bj  the  ftatute  labour. 

Ecclefiqftical  State* — Roberton  is  a  modem  pariih.  Hajau 
dian^  the  old  one,  about  9  miles  lower  down  the  coaotiy, 
ivas  annexed  to  Minto  and  Wilton.  This  was  ereAed  from 
parts  of  tbe  pariibes  of  Hawick,  Selkirk,  Wilton,  and  Hafien- 
dean.  The  fuppreffion  of  Haflendean,  and  ereAion  of  Hober. 
ton,  took  place  about  the  year  i68a.  The  decreet  is  fuppofed 
to  be  loft.  The  kirk  bears  the  iolbription  1695  ^.  la  1789, 
it  received  a  complete  repair*  About  the  fame  time  the 
manfe  was  alio  repaired  ;  and  in  179I9  new  offices  were  built. 
The  King  is  patron.  The  fiipendt  (including  communion 
elemcDts),  confifts  of  77I.  money,  14  bolls  meal,  add  12 
bolls  barley,  Tcviotdale  meafure.  The  grain,  and  part  of  the 
money,  is  paid  from  lands,  in  what  was  the  old  pariih  of  Haf. 
fendean  9  tnd,  before  an  augmentation  was  •btained  in  I7&t, 
by  the  prefent  incumbent,  there  was  00  more  than  9I.  paid 
to  him,  and  3].  to  the  minifter  ^  Wilton,  £rom  lands  within 
the  prefent  cure,  upon  the  fuppofition,  that  the  remaining 
part  of  the  old  lliperd,  paid  in  money,  by  the  Duke  of  Buc- 
cleugh,  was  for  his  lands  in  Haflendean  %  and  this  is  the  pro* 
bable  fuppofition. 

School, 


*  There  we  to  be  traced!  the  remains  of  a  chapels;  in  one  of  vvfairh,  on  the  other 
fide  of  the  Sorthwicfc,  and  of^fitc  to  the  prefent  kiric,  cvrates  froiD  Hafl'eolraa 
were  worn  to  officiate.  The  church-yard  ol  the  other,  (whkh  is  faid  to  have 
belonged  to  the  diocefe  of  Galloway),  at  Borthwick  Brae,  about  2  miles  far- 
ther  up  the  fame  water,  is  (till  ufcd  as  the  principal  buryiag  ground  in  this 
neighbourhood.  Gsiiys  and  Pott  are  the  names  moft  frequent  on  the  toish 
ftpsei* 


rf  Rohtrtm.  543 

School. — A  new  fchool-houfe  was  built  in  2790.  Th6 
fchoolmafter  Bas  the  ordinary  leg^l  falary,  fome  perqai&tes  as 
feilion-ckrk  and  precentor,  and  a  (mall  fee  from  the  heritors, 
for  uplifting  and  diftributing  the  poor's  money.  Till  fome« 
thing  be  done  by  the  public  to  render  country  fchoolmafters 
more  comfortable  and  independent,  the  important  office  which 
they  bear,  cannot  be  filled  by  men  of  education,  of  talents, 
and  confequence  enough  to  benefit  fociety,  as  (hey,  with  fome 
encouragement,  might  do. 

Po^..-.The  average  number  of  poor  on  the  roIl»  young 
and  old,  may  be  about  32.  They  are  fupplied  by  colledliona 
made  in  the  kirk  and  quarterly  aflefTments.  A  fum  is  always 
kept  in  hand  for  occafional  fupplies ;  and,  if  fuch  fund  fhould 
fail,  the  minifter  has  hitherto  had  the  approbation  of  the  he- 
ritors for  taking  credit,  till  fuch  fund  be  replaced  by  the  col- 
ledions,  or  by  a  new  alTifraient.  The  expence  of  their  main- 
tainance  for  the  current  year  is  i  a4L 

PofuJaiion.^'Thc  return  to  Dr.  "Webiler,  in   1755, 
was  -  -         -----        651 

The.  number  of  inhabitants,  of  all  ages,  in  179X9  and 

179a,  was         ------        629 

Decreafe  *,  -  •  -  aa 

Of 


•  Fonncriy  there  were  fe^rtl  htmlets,  of  which  no  vellige*  now  ren^aiti. 
The  grtatcft  coUedion  of  families,  in  one  place,  does  not  exceed  5  or  6«  There 
is  no  viUftge,  and  no  licenfed  retailer  of  fpirits  in  the  parifli.  The  expence  of 
rearing  hoafes  is  the  great  obftacle  to  population,  and  appeafs  to  be  one  cauTe 
alfo  of  the  advanced  price  of  labour.  Cottages  that  fall  down  are  feldoni 
rebailtf 


544  Statlftical  Account 


Of  thde  there  are, 

• 

Males.          FimaUs. 

Married  Pairs. 

Fasmltest 

309                  3»o 

8j 

«36 

Emfloyme$Us.^^Ot  thcfc  families  18"  are  tenaotij ;  the  reS 
confift  of  (h^pherdsy  hinds»  daj  labourers,  and  fome  tndef- 
men.  The  number  of  the  latter,  owing  to  the  neighbourhood 
of  Hawick,  is  fmall.  There  is  not  a  Ihoemaker  in  the  pa- 
rifii.  The  nature  of  the  foil  and  climate  has  fnggefted  to 
herds  and  labourers  the  ufe  of  a  kind  of  a  ilrong  leather 
ftoe,  with  a  wooden  fole,  fhod  with  iron*  This  is  porchafed 
in  the  market  town,  mended  at  home,  and  known  by  the 
same  of  elogs. 

Condition  and  CharaBer — ^The  inhabitants,  in  their  fevtral 
Sations,  are  comfortable  and  independent ;  nor  are  there 
wanting  indances  of  confiderable  wealth.  Thej  are  cquallj 
indutlrious  and  frugal.  There  are  a  good  manj  feparatifb 
from  the  Eftabliihed  Church ;  Burghers,  Antibnrghers,  and 
Cameronians  ;  but  no  Epifcopalians  or  Roman  Catholics.  Tbe 
charader  of  feparatifis  and  adherents  fcarce  admits  of  any 
ihade  of  diftinfiion,  unlefs  it  be,  that  the  former  have  the  ap- 
pearance of  greater  zeal  in  religious  matters  than  the  latter. 
In  other  refpe&s,  they  are  much  alike.  If  the  Seceders 
think  themfelves  more  religious,  thofe  belonging  to  tbe 
Eftablifiiment  fancy  themfelves  better  moral  men,  and  more 
heartily  attached  to  Government.  Happily  no  party  rancour 
j8  known,  and  no  religious  or  political  controverfics  interrupt 
the  exercife  of  that  fympathy  to  one  another  in  diftrefs,  and 
of  that  neighbourly  and  obliging  difpofition,  which  are  the 
more  ftriking  an4  diftinguifhing  features  of  the  Chriftian 
.Gbarafter« 

/itsti^uttieSf 


t>f  Roberton.  545 

• 

jintiquitiiSf  Ca/cadtf  &c. — There  are  feveral  remains  of  en« 
vampxnents  and  fortifications^  One  large  fquare  encampment, 
flanked  by  a  rivulet,  whofe  banks  are  deep,  having  the 
Berth  wick  im  front,  and  artificial  ramparts  towards  the  hill, 
bears  to  this  day  the  name  of  Africa.  Between  this,  and 
others  of  a  circular  or  femicircular  form,  the  CaUrail  (of 
^hich  fome  veftiges,  though  with  breaks,  may  (lill  be  traced), 
is  fuppofed  to  have  run  *•  One  of  thefe  femicircular  encamp- 
ments, above  1  miles  from  the  fquare  one,  and  of  which  it 
has  a  difiind  view,  has,  for  its  diameter,  the  fleep  and  craggy 
bank  of  a  rivulet,  where  there  is  a  beautiful  cafcade;  the  fall 
of  water  being  about  ao,  and  the  breadth  6  feet,  when  the 
rivulet  is  in  flood. 


Vol,  XI.  %t  NUM. 


•  See  GotPOjr*t  Am* 


54^  Statjfiical  Acctmnt 

NUMBER    XLVII. 

PARISH    OF    TULLIALLAN. 

{County  ofPirtb — Pr(fbytery  of  Dumhiane — Synod  of  Pertt 
and  SiirHngJ) 

By  the  Rev.  Mr.  David  Simsok,  Minifker. 


Namt^  Extent^  and  EreSion.^ 


npUtLlALLAK,  according  to  thofc  who  are  acquainted  wilfc 
"^  cheGaelic  language, fignifies  theheauiifulbill;  which  name 
was  probablj  given  to  it  from  its  appearance,  the  greateft  part 
of  it  being  a  beautiful  bank,  gentlj  declining  to  the  S.  and 
W.»  and  the  reft  of  it  floping  to  the  N.  and  N.  £•  ft  is 
generally  fuppofed  to  be  4  miles  from  S.  to  N.,  and  4  miles 
from  £•  to  W.  It  is  of  an  irregular  figure,  being  broader  at 
the  two  ends  than  in  the  middle.  Originallj,  it  comprehended 
the  barony  of  TuUiallan  only;  but,  in  1659,  the  barony  of 
Kincardine,  the  lands  of  Lurg  and  Sands,  and  Kellywood, 
were  disjoined  from  the  parilh  of  Culrofs,  and  annexed  to  it. 
The  whole  pariih  now  contains  about  2760  acres. 

Soil^  Cultivation^  and  Produce, ^^Tbt  foil  is  various.  Tt 
confifts  of  clay,  rich  loam^  fand,  and  dtyfield  ;  all  of  which  lie 
upon  till  or  rock.  About  40  years  ago,  it  was  in  a  fiate  of 
nature  1  but^  fince  that  period,  it  has  been  highly  improved  ; 

and 


x>f  Tulllallan.  547 

«nd  tlie  greateft  part  of  It  has  been  enclofed  with  ftone  dikes* 
or  hedges,  which  laft  have  fucceeded  amazinglj  well.  As 
the  farmers  are  diligent  in  procuring  dung  from  the  village  of 
Kincardine,  and  lime  from  Lord  Elgin's  lime  quarries,  at  a 
confiderable  expeoce,  and  are  aiUduous  in  cultivating  their 
farms,  they  generally  have  good  returns  of  wheat,  barley, 
oats,  beans  and  peafe,  potatoes,  turnips,  and  fown  grafs. 
Were  not  the  tenants  redri&ed  by  their  leafes,  the  quantity 
of  oats  fown  would  be  lefs  than  any  other  grain,  owing  to 
the  high  thirlage.  If  a  tenant  carries  1 1  bolls  of  oats  to  the 
mill,  he  may  lay  his  account  with  leaving  one  behind  him  as 
dues ;  I  had  almoft  faid  x  in  10  ;  which  is  very  difcouraging 
|o  the  improvenaent  of  lands, 

Rtvir,  Climaie^  and  2)^/>/2r/.— ^Surrounded  "by  the  river 
forth  on  the  S.  W.,  ezpofed  to  a  free  current  of  air  in  this 
diredion,  and  well  iheltered  by  the  elevation  of  tlie  ground, 
and  the  adjacent  woods  on  the  N.  and  E.,  this  parifli  pof- 
fefles,  at  all  feafons,  a  more  mild  and  temperate  climate  than 
many  other  parts  of  Scotland,  in  the  fame  latitude. '  Violent 
inflammatory  difeafes,  depending  on  the  qualities  of  the  air,  are 
feldom  feen  here,  excepting  the  croup  among  infants,  which 
prevails  mod  in  cold  and  damp  fituations.  During  the  courfe 
of  the  laft  20  years,  the  fmall  pox  ^the  moft  fatal  difeafe  in 
this  diflrid),  has  been  obferved  to  become  epidemical  every 
lecond  or  third  year,  often  preceded  by  the  chincough,  and 
followed  by  the  meafles.  The  fcarlet  fever,  thrice  on  one 
occaiion  was  ufiiered  in  with  all  the  fymptoms  of  the  malignant 
(ore  throat;  and  the  dyfentery  once  io  Auguft  2784,  which, 
at  its  commencement,  was,  in  fever al  inftances,  fatal.  With 
thefe  exceptions,  infe&ious  fevers  are  very  uncommon.  Agues, 
formerly  prevalent,  have  not  appeared  thefe  many  years, 
owing,  in  fome  meafure,  to  the  improvements  in  agriculture, 

3  Z  a  th« 

I 


548  SUitlftkal  Jccount 

the  general  deaolmefs,  and  free  ventilation  of  the  bouics  of 
nianj  of  the  inhabitants  %  who,  being  in  eafy  circnm&aocetp 
feel  lels  the  evils  arifing  from  poverty  and  extreme  want*  It 
is  probaUe,  that  the  inortality  of  manj  of  the  difeafes  men* 
tinned,  has  been,  of  late  years,  mitigated,  bj  an  improved  mode 
of  living,  a  more  eafy  acceb  of  the  inhaUtants  to  a  greater 
variety  of  vegetable  produftions,  and  a  more  moderate  nfe  of 
fiQiy  which  abound  in  the  river*  The  fmall  pox  has  alfo  been 
greatly  alleviated  by  inoculation.  Praditioners  of  cxperi* 
ence  affirm  it  would  be  more  general  and  fuccefsfnl,  if  prac« 
tifed  by  mothers  on  children,  one  or  two  months  old ;  the 
eruptive  fever  being  of  much  fliorter  duration,  and  the  puf^ 
tnles  very  few  in  number,  at  this  early  period. 

Ftflkriu.^-Thtxt  are  above  xoo  crmhei  in  the  parUh; 
in  which  are  caught  herrings,  whitings,  haddodu,  fparlings, 
ff the,  fprats,  cod,  ikate,  with  fooM  few  fidmon  and  flounders. 
Of  thefe  laft,  there  are  4  different  fpedes,  called. here  xht/ok^ 
the  turhpi^  the  fand^  and  the  bumfck  flounders.  The  fole 
and  turbot  are  efteemed  the  heft.  The  precife  value  of  a 
cruive  cannot  be  afeertained,  as  it  depends  on  the  quantity  of 
fifli  caught.  When  the  herrbgs  are  numerous,  it  may  amount 
to  more  than  5L,  befidea  the  tytbe^  that  is,  a  tide  in  the  Aream. 
In  other  years,  their  gain  would  fcarcely  keep  them  in  repair. 
The  average  of  a  cruive,  in  good  and  bad  fiflibg  feafooa,  is 
eftimated  between  4oe«  ,and  50s.  yearly,  befides  the  tythe. 
When  the  herring  fifliery  fuccecds,  it  is  a  great  benefit  to  the 
place  and  neighbourhood.  Thefe,  together  with  the  potatoes, 
fupport  the  poor  people  for  fome  months  in  the  end  of  the 
year. 

CoUiery  and  Salt  Work. — About  6p  years  ago,  there  was 

an  exteniivc  colliery  and  fait  work  carried  on  here.    Them 


tf  Tulliallan.  549 

is  a  man  livingi  who  knew  41  pikemeo,  and  their  bearers, 
employed  m  it.  The  coalsi  at  that  time,  were  either  fold  to 
the  country,  or  coofumed  by  the  pans  ;  none  of  them  were 
exported ;  but  after  the  fliipping  increafed,  they  carried  them 
to  Dundee,  Perth,  fcc.  Though  there  is  abundance  of  coals 
^o  work,  and  a  fteam  engine  was  ereded,  nothing  has  been 
done  for  a  number  of  years.  There  were  formerly  35  falc 
pans  in  this  parilh,  14  of  which  have  been  in  ruins  beyond  the 
memory  of  any  man  living.  Their  foundations  were  lately 
diig  upt  uid  there  is  not  a  veftige  of  them  to  be  feen.  About 
60  years  ago,  there  were  ax  in  the  pariib,  6  at  NiwPant,  and 
15  At  Wtjl  fans^  now  CflAtdi  Kincardine  The  author  has 
known  x8  of  them  working  at  one  time.  The  proprietor 
<iimiihcd  each  pan  with  36  fmall  cart  loads  of  coals  in  the 
week;  and  for  thefe  the  falter  was  obliged  to  produce  4 
draughts  of  ialt,  each  draught  containing  14  frlots  of  Lin* 
lithgow  barley  meafure.  The  produce  of  the  whole  pans, 
(fuppofing  them  to  go  conftantty),  was  aja  bolls  in  the  week, 
and  13,104  bolls  in  the  year ;  which  were  fold  at  48s.  the  boll, 
amonntilig  to  2,62ol.  i6s.  Bui  after  the  duty  was  laid  upon 
it  by  aft  of  parliament,  it  was  fold  at  as.  the  buflieL  The 
wages  paid  to  the  falter,  were  a  peck  of  oatmeal,  at  8,\d,  the 
peck,  and  what  fait  he  had  more  than  his  14  firlots  from  his 
draught  \  and,  when  cleaning  the  bucket,  pots,  &c.,  he  had 
only  4d.  per  day.  The  whole  of  thefe  pans  are  in  ruins,  ex« 
cepting  two,  which  work  but  little ;  for  as  the  coal  is  not  work- 
ing, the  pan  wood  muft  be  carried  from  the  AUoa  collieries 
to  Alloa  (here,  and  from  thence  to  Kincardine,  by  water^ 
which  makes  it  very  dear.  The  fait  is  at  prefent  felling  here 
at  4S.  the  buihel.  A  firlot  of  fidt,  uken  from  the  pan,  weighs 
j8  lb.  or  a  bufliel  and  a  lb.  After  it  hath  lain  {ovok  time  in 
the  granary,  it  will  weigh  (3  lb.  or  a  bulhel  and  ^  lb* 

vmag$. 


550  Statifiical  Account 

Village  and  Markets^  Sic — KnrcA&Din  is  a  prettj  larg« 
Tillage  on  the  banks  of  the  FoTth«  conUiDing  $1%  hoofes,  fnb- 
ftaatiUly  built,  and  are  generallj  finiflied  neadj  in  the  infidc 
A  confiderable  number  of  them  confift  of  two,  and  fome  cf 
them  of  three  flats.  Thej  are  mofilj  covered  with  tiles,  and 
built  upon  pan  a(hes ;  whicht  being  naturally  dry,  contributes 
greatly  to  the  health  of  the  inhabitants.  There  are  two  mar* 
ket  days  in  the  week,  viz.  Wednefday  and  Saturday^  whicfc 
are  generally  well  fuppUed  with  provilions.  Beef^  mottoo, 
▼ealy  and  lamb,  fell  from  3d.  to  jd.  the  lb ;  butter  from  8d. 
to  lodi  andcbeefe  from  3d.  to  4d.  the  lb:  fowls,  from  is.  to 
i4d.  a  piece;  a  duck  at  8d.;  a  chicken  8d.;eggs  from  4d.  to 
£d.  the  dozen.  There  is  a  poft  office  in  the  village  of  Kincar* 
dine;  and  we  have  two  polls  from  Edinburgh  regularly  every 
day  in  the  week,  the  one  by  Stirling,  and  the  other  by  the 
Qu^eensferry.  By  the  latter,  all  letters  from  Fife,  Perth,  and 
the  North  Country,  are  conveyed.  For  thefe  laft  three 
years,  the  amount  paid  into  it,  by  this  pariih  only,  wa^ 
247I.  zos.  7d. 

RoadSf  Ferry^  and  Harhour^^Tbe  roads  are  extremely  bad 
in  winter^  in  foft  weather,  though  good  in  fummer.  The  pa-* 
rilh  aflfords  no  materials  to  make  them  of,  but  £ree>fione  and 
pan  aihesy  which  carriages  foon  grind  to  powder.  There  is  a 
pafiage  boat  between  Kincardine  and  HigginU  Neai^  at  prefect 
on  a  very  incommodious  footing.  It  is  only  within  2  hours, 
before  and  after  fined,  that  they  can  pais  with  a  horfe ;  and  foot 
paflengers  art  often  obliged,  at  low  water,  to  wade  through 
mud  for  40  yards.  The  ihipmallers  here,  by  a  voluntary 
contribution,  have  begun  to  build  a  pier.  If  their  finances 
allow  them  to  finifli  it,  it  will  be  a  great  advantage  to  tbofe 
who  have  occafion  to  pafs  here* 

Sbiffing 


of  I'ultiallan.  ^^i 

Shipping  and  Commerce. — ^Kincardine  is  a  creek,  within 
the  precin&s  of  the  cuftom-hoafe  of  Alloa*.  For  thefe  40 
years  pad,  a  coniiderable  number  of  fhip  carpenters  have  re« 
fided  here,  who  built  annually  feveral  floops  and  brigantines* 
Veilels  of  200  and  300  tons  have  been  built  here^  for  the 
Weft  India  trade,  and  the  Greenland  fifhery.  In  1786,  there 
were  9  veflels  upon  the  ftocks  at  one  time  ;  and  the  number 
then  belonging  to  this  place  was  91,  and  their  tonnage  5,461  ; 
which  is  about  aoo  tons  more  than  what  belongs  to  Alloa, 
and  the  whole  precin&s  of  that  port,  at  prefent ;  and  more  than 
half  of  the  tonnage  f  of  Leith  in  that  year.  If  the  diftilleries, 
in  this  pariih  and  the  neighbourhoodi  had  not  failed,  they 
would  have  been  oonfiderably  increaled :  But  owing  to  thefe, 
and  a  ftagnation  of  trade  that  fiicceeded  in  this  plaee  for  two 
years,  theirihipping  decreafed}  and,  fince  that  period,  04  veiTels, 
amounting  to  1859  tons,  have  been  fold  or  loil.  Within  thefe 
three  years,  trade  has  begun  to  revive,  and  feveral  veflels  have 
been  built.  The  number  of  floops  and  brigandnes  belonging 
to  Kincardine,  at  prefent,  is  75,  and  their  regifter  tonnage 
4043.  All  thefe,  excepting  two,  are  included  in  the  {261  tons, 
which,  in  the  Statiilical  Account  of  the  parifli  of  Alloa,  are 

laid 


*  In  the  beginning  of  this  century,  there  were  no  (hipping  of  any  confeqaence 
belonging  to  it.  They  had  only  5  boats,  from  10  to  20  tuns  burden.  Thefe 
were  employed  in  carrying  fait  to  Leith,  and  importing  from  thence  wood,  and 
iron,  for  the  ufe  of  the  pans,  and  in  the  lime  trade.  They  went  no  farther. 
But  after  fome  fliip  carpenters  had  come  to  fettle  in  it,  the  fpirit  for  fliip  build- 
ing prevailed  fo  much,  that,  in  174O,  they  had  30  veflels,  from  15  to  60  tons 
burden,  amounting  to  860  tons.  In  1745,  feveral  of  thefe  were  employed  in 
government  fervicc.  When  the  coal  was  working,  and  the  fait  pans  going, 
they  "had  abundance  of  exports  ;  but  fince  thefe  were  given  up,  they  have  had 
none.  Yet  this  did  not  deftroy  their  fpirit  for  trade  and  Ihip  building ;  for  they 
had  the  addrefs  and  good  fenfe  to  become  carriers  to  other  ports. 

t  Vide  LocVs  Eflay  on  the  Trade,  tec.  of  Scotland,  Vol.  IL  p.  f. 


g£2  Statijitcal  Account 

ikid  to  belong  to  thtt  port*.  They  require  about  300  lailors 
to  navigate  them.  Thej  import  a  great  quantity  of  wood^ 
iron,  flax,  and  lintfeed,  from  the  Baltic  and  Holland^  and  barlej 
from  England  and  the  Carfe  of  Gowrie,  &c* ;  and  they  ex- 
port coak  from  Alloa,  Clackmannan,  and  the  other  coUieri«i 
on  the  Frith,  to  Dundee,  Perth,  Norway  and  Sweden.  Some 
of  them  are  in  the  Mediterranean  and  Levant  trade,  and  one 
of  them  has  been  in  government  fervice  to  the  Eaft  Indies. 

Coafi. — At  Kincardine  there  is  a  very  good  road-ftead, 
where  zoo  vcflels  may  ride  with  fafety.  The  beach  where 
they  dean  and  repair  their  vefiels  is  hard  gravel.  From  the 
W.  end  of  the  parilh  to  New  Pans,  the  ihore  is  level ;  and, 
where  the  flood  ebbs,  400  or  500  acres  of  fine  mud  might  be 
taken  from  the  river  by  a  fea  dike,  and  annexed  to  the  land. 
From  New  Pans,  to  the  pariih  of  Culrofs,  the  {bore  is  fall  of 
rocks,  which  are  vifible  when  the  tide  ebbs,  but  covered  when 
It  flows. 

Jfin^a/z.-^This  pariih  abounds  with  excellent  quarries  of 
free^ftone,  both  yellow  and  white.  The  quarry  of  Loogannat 
hath  been  in  great  reputation,  time  immemorial.  It  is  a  dur- 
able ftone,  perfe&ly  white,  of  a  fmall  greei^  and  takes  on  a  fiae 
fmooth  polifii.  The  demand  for  it  has  been  greater  than  the 
quarriers  have  ever  been  able  to  fupply.  Befides  many  houfes 
in  the  neighbourhood,  of  the  Crft  archittdure,  that  have  been 
built  out  of  it,  it  has  been  carried  by  fea  to  many  diftaat 
places.  The  Royal  Exchange,  Infirmary,  and  Regifier  Office, 
in  Edinburgh,  and  one  of  the  churches  in  Aberdeen,  were 
partly  built  oat  of  it.     And  it  is  reported  here,  that  one  of 

the 


•  Sec  VoL  VHt  Np.  XL. 


L 


•f  TuB^ttanl  5^5 

die  principal  honfes  of  Amsterdam,  and  the  St%dt-I{oafe  of 
H0U.A9B  were  built  oat  of  it  *• 

JIff/b.— -Them  are  4  iQiUs  in  this  pariihi  within  40  yards  of 
each  ether,  built  in  a  moft  fubftantial  manner ;  viz.  a  meal, 
^  barley,  a;flottr9  afid  a  threlbing  mill,  all  driven  by  the  fame 
water.  Little,  if  any,  of  that  water  arifes  from  fprings,  foi; 
there  are  very  few  in  the  pariih,  but  from  what  falls  from  the 

-clouds.  Before  fteam  engines  were  invented,  the  coal  ma« 
chinery  on  the  lands  of  Kincardine  were  driven  by  this  water, 
as  they  had  no  rivers  nor  rivulets  by  which  they  could  be 
wrought.  To  repaedy  this  defed,  a  ftrong  dike  was  built 
between  two  rifing  banks,  about  40  yards  in  length,  and  aa 
feet  deep,  and  around  all  the  rifiog  ground,  they  caft  ditclics,  by 
which  the  water,  tailing  from  the  clouds,  might  be  con^iAej 
into  what  is  called  the  Papermill  Dam,  which,  when  full,  covers 
66  acres,  and  contains  water  fiifficient  to  drive  the  mills,  and 

.  the  coal  machinery,  for  9  months  of  the  year.    They  likewife 

built  another  damj  which,  when  full,  covers  50  acres.    Thta 

Vol.  XI.  4  A  ia 


*  Thefc  two  Uft,  perligps,  may  be  tboaglit  difpot&ble ;  but,  to  conroborat* 
thb  aflertion,  there  ve  ftill  the  remains  of  a  long  pier,  faidr,  to  be  built  bj  a 
I>utch  company,  to  be  feen.  About  40  yards  of  it,  neareft  to  the  land,  are  in  » 
%tt%t  mexfore  entire.  From  this  pie¥  to  low  water,  they  built  two  ftooe  dikes, 
ibme  yards  diftant  from  ope  another,  in  which  were  ereAed  poUies,  by  which 
they  hauled  out  their  vefl*els  through  the  dock  formed  by  the  two^  dikes.  Tfaia 
dock  was  9  feet  deep  at  high  water,  but  is  now  almoft  filled  up  with  mud.  Gonti- 
|;qous  to  ity  there  are  the  remains  of  a  large  refer^ir,  built  by  them.  Which  filled. 
when  the  tide  flowed ;  and,  when  it  was  near  ebb,  they  opened  a  fluice  in  the 
lefervoir,  of  about  9  feet  wide,  which  emptied  itfelf  along  the  pier  into  the 
dock,  and  carried  ofF  the  mud  which  the  former  tide  had  wafhed  into  it.  A 
link  weft  from  it,  there  is  another  pier  (if  it  may  be  fo  called),  named  the  Rt^ai 
JEMhrnnge  Pier^  becaufe  at  it  they  loaded  their  Tefleb  with  (tones  for  that, 
tuildinj;  {  and  at  this  pier  they  generally  load  their  nfleli  ft  prcil^oL. 


554  Statiftical  Acccuni 

is  not  fo  deep  as  the  fbrmer,  and  only  contains  a  quarter  of 
a  year's  water.  The  laft  is  often  dry  in  fummer,  and  the 
other,  in  a  great  drought,  has  not  fo  much  water  running  iota 
it  as  would  ill  a  half  inch  pipe. 

Biftillerbs  and  Ganle^^^ThfiTC  are  two  large  diftillerxes  ia 
thb  place*  which  feed  annuaUy  from  X70  to  ^00  cattle.  Thefe, 
when  fed|  are  fold  at  from  xol.  to  151.  each.  They  employ  a 
great  many  fenrants  and  horfes,  befides  what  they  hire. 
Their  fpirits  go  to  the  Fife,  Edinburgh,  and  Glafgow  markets. 
They  import  barley  from  England,  Carfe  of  Gowrie,  &x^ 
befides  what  they  purchafe  in  the  neighbon.hood. 

MantffaSures.'^lJo  manufaftures,  excepting  (hip  building, 
which  has  been  carried  on  fucceffively  for  above  50  years  pail, 
have  been  introduced  into  Kincardine,  until  within  thefe  two 
years,  that  two  companies  for  tambouring  have  fettled  in  it, 
who  employ  about  50  girls  each,  and  z8  looms.  The  other 
mechanics  are  employed  in  working  to  the  people  of  tho 
^riih. 

Houfet^'^ln  1740  there  were  214  houfes  in  the  pariih.  Of 
thefe  51  have  been  pulled  down,  and  the  ground  they  occo* 
pied  annexed  to  farms.  The  number  of  houfes  now  ftandbg, 
that  were  built  before  the  yea,r  1740,  are  .        -        98 

iRebuilt  fince  that  period,  1  •  «  75 

New  houfes  built  fince  1740,  «  «  •«      399 

Total  number  of  houfes,  •»  •  47a 

Population. — If  we  may  judge  of  the  fotmer  number  oC 
inhabitants  by  the  number  of  hoiifes,  they  would  not  amount, 
^o  years  a^o,  to  one  half  of  what  they  are  at  prefent.  ^And^ 


•    ifninattatti      '  iss 

jnSLttii  fi\)iii  Dr.  Webftec's  report,  the  number  a^pearl  to 
kave  been  nearly  doubled  within  that  period. 

The  number  of  fouls  at  prefent  (1793)1  '^  ^^  parifli^  is  343« 
In  the  year  17559  it  was  only  -  -  1321 

Increafe,  »  -  *  •      ZZ09 

The  marriages,  births*,  and  deaths  f,  as  recorded  in  th« 
pariih  r^gifier,  for  the  laft  10  yearsi  are  as  follows ; 

Anno        Mariaoes.       Births;         i)£ATHS^ 


1780 

6 

6S 

^z 

]78t 

18 

69 

49 

178* 

28 

56 

45 

1783 

18 

74 

59 

1784 

34 

7* 

69 

1785 

38 

8x 

48 

1786 

8» 

70 

69 

1787 

SI 

81 

99 

1788 

a7 

88 

55 

1789 

io 

66 

35 

-    ■■ 

II  •  1 

• 

Total, 

aaz 

726 

660 

Anaoal  average^ 

-     aa» 

ii 

S 

4  A  a  Pnfrkt^h 


•  Thomas  Scotlana,  a  fliocmakcr  in  Kinbardine,  hU  hod  13  children  by  one 
%afe,  xo  of  whom  were  at  5  binhs  fucccffiTely. 

f  An  eiaA  account  of  the  births  and  deaths  is  not  to  be  etpedled  in  this 
place  ;  for  fcveral  of  the  Scccders  do  not  regiOaU  their  childia***  hirthi,  aai 
£t feral  fallors  are  loft  or  die  at  fei. 


SS^  Stutifiical  Actouttt 

FrppriiUm  and  Reni^^-^Thtrt  are  7  heriton  is  the  pn&) 
all  of  whom  are  non-rcfideDt,  except  two,  whofe  property  dee> 
not  amount  to  50  acres.  The  valtiatiod  of  the  landed  pco* 
perty  is  1589I.  98.  6-^.  Scotch* 

Ecelefiqfiieal  State ^"^There  are  two  clergTinen  in  the  pa* 
riih,  the  minifter  of  the  Eftabliihed  Church,  and  of  the  Burgh- 
er Seceders.  The  number  of  their  hearers,  and  of  the  ptbcr 
fedariesy  are  as  under  : 

Members  of  the  Eftablilhed  Church,  -         X04d 

Burgher  Seceders,         •         •          -  •         370 

Antiburgher  ditto,         -          -          -  •         itf 

Seceders  from  thefe,         «         «         «  •         9 

Anabaptifts,        -         -         «         -  «         ^ 

In  alf,        -        -        *        ^        2430 

The  church  was  formerly  built  about  a  mile  farther 
north  than  it  is  at  prefcnt,  and  was  very  finall,  being  onlj 
36  feet  in  length,  x6  in  breadth,  and  8  feet  in  height. 
The  prefent  church  is  built  half  an  Englifli  mile  £nom  the 
fliore,  upon  a  rifing  ground,  overlooking  the  village  of  Kin- 
cardine, which  lies  between  it  and  the  Forth.  It  was  built 
in  1675  ;  and,  were  it  not  for  its  Gothic  windows,  would  be 
taken  for  a  modern  edifice.  It  appears,  from  the  pariih  re- 
cords, that  though  the  heritors  built  the  church,  they  did  not 
fiat  it.  This  the  kirk-fef&on,  in  order  to  accommodate  the 
people,  did,  out  of  the  poor's  funds ;  and  afterwards,  to  reimi> 
burfe  tbofe  funds,  fold  them  to  the  pariflioners  ;  which  they, 
their  heirs,  and  aiSgnees,  poflcfs  to  this  day.  A  feat,  hold« 
ing  5  perfonsi  that  was  then  fold  for  45*^  now  feUs  for  jL 


^f  TuOlallan.  ^^f 

James  ErsKIVE,  of  Cardrofs,  Ef^.  is  patfon.  line  manfe  is 
fitaated  a  litde  N.  of  the  cburch,  is  furrounded  with  trees  ia 
full  growth,  and  has  a  moft  delightful  profpefi  of  the  adjacent 
Gonntry  and  the  windings  of  the  Forth.  It  was  built  about 
the  beginning  of  this  centurj,  and  covered  with  heath,  until 
'7479  when  2^  feet  were  added  to  its  height,  and  covered  with 
grey  flate*  It  was  repaired  in  1790.  The  ftipend  is,  a  glebe 
of  about  4  acres  of  ground^  including  the  garden,  and  thd 
ftance  of  the  manfe  and  offices  ;  xl.  X3s«  4d.  for  grafs,  2  chal« 
ders  of  meal,  i  chalder  of  barlej,  41L  13s.  4d.  in  money,  and 
3I.  6s»  8d.  for  communion  elements; 

Scbools  and  i'oor^— There  ii  a  fchool,  with  a  (bhool-houfe 
and  garden.  The  (alarj  is  jl.  7s.  IfVd.;  and  the  dues  of  re« 
giftrations,  &c.  are  about  61.  Thefe,  together  with  the  fchool 
fees,  which  are  conliderably  higher  than  aAy  in  the  neighs 
boarhood,  may  amount  to  jol.  a  year^'  ezcluilve  of  the  houfe 
and  garden.  There  are  two  private  fchools  in  the  pariih. 
The  pariih  funds,  which  are  inadequate  for  fupplying  the  poor^ 
arife  from]  a  yearly  voluntary  donation  from  one  of  the  heri^ 
tors  of  *  -  -  -  L.  330 

Intereft  of  money  lent,  -  -  -5*86  A 

Avefage  of  colleAions,  mortcloth,  and  proclama^ 

tions  of  marriages,  for  4  years,  -  54  i6     3  f^ 


Total  yearly  mcome,  -  L.63  17  10*^ 

Trias  of  Lahmr. — The  wages  of  an  ordinary  man  fervant 
in  the  year,  are  from  61.  to  81.  with  his  me<it,  or  8i  bolls  o£ 
meal,. with  6d«  for  milk,  in  the  week  :  Thofe  of  a  woman  fer« 
tanc  are  from  50s,  to  3L  a  year/  with  their  meat.    A  maa 

for 


ggZ  Statyiical  JecQUfd 

for  reaping  gets  is.,  with  %  glafles  of  whiiky  in  the  day  ;  anA 
^  A  woman  xod.*  with  2  glafles  of  whiiky.  Others  give  the  fame 
wages  but  no  wbilky.  ThoCe  who  hire  for  the  whole  harvefi^ 
give  to  a  mail  i5s«  and  lo  pecks  of  meal ;  and  to  a  womaa 
xos.  and  7  pecks  of  meal.  Day  laboarers  get  is.,  (hip  car- 
penters IS.  8d.  per  day,  and  double  wages  when  employed  in 
tide  work,  with  an  allowance  of  drink ;  mafons  and  houfe 
carpenters  is.  8d. ;  tailors  8d.  with  their  meat  \  mowers  of 
grais  xs«  6d«  per  day,  Or  fo  mucli  per  acre« 

PIahtations.^^Qo\oh,A  Erikine  of  Carnock  beautified  hia 
eftate  of  Tulliallan  very  much  ;  for  befides  the  large  plants-^ 
tions  of  firs  which  he  made,  and  which  have  thriven  fo  well 
tiiat  many  of  them  have  been  cut,  there  was  not  a  kail-yard, 
or  any  ditch  by  which  Water  was  condu£i;ed,  but  he  planted. 
He  ornamented  the  roads,  by  planting,  on  each  fide,  rows  of 
trees,  confiding  of  oak,  afli,  beech,  elm,  plane,  and  hornbeam. 
They  have  grown  fo  w^,  that  they  are  fit  for  fhip  building, 
and  other  purpofes.  The  prefent  Mr.  j^dkine  of  Cardrofs  had 
alfo  planted  many  acres  with  fir,  oak,  and  other  barren  wood, 
which  are  thriving  well.  He  has  now  hardly  any  ground  ttf 
plant  but  what  was  lately  cut, 

.  jlntiquitiesc^^\itte  are  no  remarkable  old  buildings  In  the 
parifti,  excepting  the  caftle  of  Tulliallan,  which  formerly  tte« 
longed  to  the  Blackadders,  who  were  knights  baronets.  It 
itands  upon  a  fmall  rifing  ground,  about  half  a  mile  from  the 
Forth.  Nothing  of  it  remains  but  the  walls,  and  the  arch  over 
the  ground  flat,  which  confifts  of  three  rooms«  Two  of  tfte 
rooms  have  an  o6logan  pillar  ftanding  in  the  middle,  of  about 
5  feet  4  inches  in  circumference,  fupporting  the  arch.  It 
fippears  to  have  been  a  place  of  ilrengtb|  as  it  was  furroundci 

with 


tf  Tulliallan.  j;5^ 

witli  a  ditch,  part  of  which  is  vifible. — The  Grofs  of  Kincar- 
dine  is  a  long  fioae,  of  i8  feet  8  inches  in  height  above  ground, 
and  3  feet  8  inc)ics  in  circumference.  The  top  of  it  has  the 
tbiftle  infcribed  on  the  one  fide,  and  the  arms  of  the  Elgia 
family  op  the  other  *, 


NUM. 


*  It  was  from  this  barony  that  that  family  took  the  title  of  Earl  of  Kincar-^ 
42oe.  It  is  ccpor¥e4  here,  that  the  crols  of  Perth  and  the  crofs  ol  Kincardino 
^Cfp  taken  from  the  quarry  of  Longanaat,  and  cut  out  wf  the  ftone. 


j[6d  Stafiftical  Au^mti 

NUMBER     XLVIH^. 
PARISH    OF    CROY^ 

(fiountjUi  §f  Nairn  and  Im^emefi — Prt/byttrj  of  NairB^^ 
Synod  of  Moray.y 

Bg  the  Rfv.Mr.Bao^CALBMB^  Mm^imr.^ 


EreQion^  Names,  and  Extentm 

THIS  pariiht  in  its  prefent  ftate,  confifts  of  the  origiiiaJ 
parifli  of  Grot,  and  that  of  Qalcross  annexed  to  it.  It 
is  not  known  vrhen  this,  annexation  took  place  j  but  it  is  pro- 
bable that  it  happened  at  the  Reformation.  There  are  accounts 
of  a  vicar  of  Dalcrofs  in  the  time  of  Popery,  but  none  of  any 
clergymcrn  being  there  fince  that  timef.  The  names  are  fup*. 
pofed  of  French  origin  :  Croy  from  Croi:^^  a  crofs ;  and  DaU 
cro/s.  from  dela  Croix.  The  extent  of  it  is  very  great;  in  length 
fioiii  N.  E.  to  S.  W.  it  is  about  i6  miles.  The  breadth  is 
various.   In  fome  places  it  is  indented,  a^d  almoft  interfeded 

by 

t  There  is  «  church-jard  or  burying  groaixE  at  Dalcro£%  Imt  it  b  Uttk  nfed. 
and  part  of  the  walls  of  the  church  ftiil  rcouio  \  and  the  laiaifier  l^s  s  gleho 
there  as  well  as  one  tt  Cr»ji 


t>f  Croy.  j6t 

my  the  AelghBbnring  parUhes  ;  and  in  othefsi  including  the 
^prafte  ground,  it  is  7  er  8  miles  broad; 

River^  Fijb^  Wbods^  Surfaet^  t^r.-^Thtf  river  UTtim^  fe  calU 

ed  from  the  idler  trees  growing  on  its  banks,  runs  through 

this  pariih  for  abont  8  miles ;  fo  that  pUrt  of  the  pariih  is  in* 

eluded  in  the  diflrid  of  country  called  Strathnaim.    In  thi« 

river  there  are  falmon  and  trout  of  a  good  quality.  To  the  £; 

of  Kilfavock,  there  is  a  fmall  falmon  fiihibg,  the  propehj  of 

Mrs*  Rofe  of  Kilravock;     The  falmon  are  fold  in  the  neigh- 

lK>urhood.    In  the  courfe  of  la  years^  the  price'  of  this  article 

has  been  raifed  from  ifd;  to  4d;  per  lb.     The  banks  of  the 

river  are  well  cultivated^  or,  when  they  do  not  admit  of  cb1« 

tivationi  covered  with  wood^  natural  and  planted  \  which^. 

with  other  circumftances  to  be  afterwards  ftated,  has  a  very 

agreeable  appearance,  ahd  forms  a  fcene  of  true  rural  amenity^ 

The  other  part  of  the  pariih,  lying  to  the  N.  and  N.  W.  of 

the  t^aim,  is  almoft  ^one  continued  ridge  *  from  on6  end  of 

the  pariih  to  the  other.   As  it  eonfiib  almoft  entirely  of  waft^ 

moor  ground,  with  fmall  fpots  of  land  indifferently  cultivated^ 

the  appearance  is  rather  bleak  and  di£igreeablt« 

yoL.ZIi  4B  ijalii 


*  On  this  ridge,  anfl  near  the  middle  of  it,  on  the  fide  towards  the  Naim^ 
WM  fought  ihe  ftfflods  battle  of  GoUbden,  memorable  for  the  complete  defeat 
•£  the  adherents  of  the  houfe  of  Stuart,  in  thctr  laft  attempt  to  replace  that 
deluded  family  on  the  Britiih  throne.  The  circumftances  and  confequehces  of 
ibat  a^on  art  To  well  known,  as  to  render  it  nnnecefl*ary  to  give  any  account  o£ 
tfatm  here.  Strangen  fkill  vifit  the  field  of  battle,  though  there  is  little  to  be 
iecn  on  it,  excepting  the  graves  of  thofe  that  ieU  in  the  adlion,  which  are  dif-* 
cemed  by  the  green  fnxfiice,  while  the  reft  of  the  ground  is  covered  with  black 
lieath.  Bullets,  and  fragments  ef  armour,  that  are  picked  up  by  people  in  xht 
neighbourhood,  are  anxiouily  fought  after,  and  carefully  pr^ferttd,  bf  the  tin 
lBofi|  as  curiofitics  and  valuable  relics* 


^6l  StoB^kal  Accdunt 

Zaii^m^Thert  is  na  runatiq;  water  in  the  {Mfilli  tfait  i 
notice,  excepting  tht  Nairo,  aleeadj  meotioned^  There  is  anm 
lake,  called  the  Zoci&  0/  /£r  Cbitr  /  bai  for  what  reafen  it  goes 
hj  this  oame  is  not  known.  It  is  about  a  mile  long,  but  die 
breadth  is  ioconfiderable«  There  are  no  fiik  in  it,  excepting 
Ibme  pike,  which  are  faid  to  be  fo  yoracious  and  deftmftiy^ 
as  to  prevent  anj  other  fiik  from  breeding  thexe« 

SqU  *• — ^The  foil  of  this  pariflt,  aa  migbt  be  teafonaUj  ex* 
peded,  from  the  great  extent  of  it,  is  vnrioos^  la  general^ 
diat  on  the  fides  of  the  Nwn  ia  good,  and,  when  well  cnlti- 
yated,  produces  good  crops  of  all  fpeoies  of  grain.  In  tome 
finall  fpota  of  the  reft  of  the  pariih,  the  foil  ia  likewiCe  good) 
but  the  £ar  greater  part  of  it  is  rather  poor  and  thin,  on  a 
cold  hard  bottom,  producing  indifferent  crops,  which  falbr 
greatly  when  the  harveft  ia  late  or  wet. 

PBpulatioii.^-^The  population  of  this  pariih  appeal  to  have 
decreafed  eonfiderahlj  during  the  laft  30  or  40  years. 

The  number  of  fouls,  as  retomed  to  Dn  Webfter,  in 
the  year  1755,  was  -  -        .      •  1901 

The  total  number  of  young  and  old  at  prefent  (1793} 
in  the  pariih,  is  only  •  •  *  1551 

So  that  the  decreafe  is  not  lefs  than  *  349 

•» 

By  comparing  the  report  of  Dodors  Dick  and  Hyndman, 
giTcn  in  to  the  Society  in  Scotland  for  Propagating  Chriilian 

Knowledge, 

^  With  refpcdl  to  the  climate,  air,  prices  of  labour  and  proTifimis,  as  wellaa 
Ihe  charadler  and  manners  of  the  people,  and  a  variety  of  other  articles,  there  h 
fo  veiy  little  diiTerence  between  this  pariih  and  the  neighbouring"  ones,  of  which 
the  accounU  hsve  already  bees  publiibed|  that  it  is  uaacccfiitfy  10  difciiis  theai 
here* 


bf  Croy.  563 

Itnovricdgc,  in  the  jear  1759,  with  a  lift  taken  in  the  year 
X7749  the  decreafe,  daring  that  period,  appears  to  have  been 
flill  greater :  For  in  that  report  the  nnmber  of  examinable 
perfons  was  ftated  at         «  .  .  •  ^         1360 

ivhich,  adding  the  ufual  proportion   of  one   4th  for 
duldren  under  7  years  of  age,  *  -  390 

makes  the  total  number,  in  17591  *  "  '95^ 

The  number,  in  I774»  was  only  -  ■*  X4>{ 

Hence  there  appears  a  decreafe  of  -  525 

By  comparing  the  annual  averages  of  births  f ,  too,  at  dif- 
ferent periods,  the  decreafe  appears  equally  confpicuous.  Th6 
piverage,  for  5  years,  from  1759  to  1763,  inclufive,    juertafi. 

was  -  -  -        .        -         53 

Ditto,  from  1771  to  1775,  inclufive,  was     •46  7 

And,  daring  the  5  laft  years,  it  is  reduced  to    41  5 

Total  average  decreafe  of  births  per  annum,        »        xa 

which  is  nearly  one  fourth  lefs  within  tbefe  35  years.  No 
latisfaftory  reaCbn  can  be  affigned  for  this  great  and  rapid 
diminution  of  the  population,  k  is  attributed,  in  fome  mea« 
fure,  to  the  improvement  and  enlargement  of  fevend  farm^, 
by  which  the  number,  both  of  occupiers  and  fervants,  has 
been  greatly  reduced.  Of  late,  fome  young  men  have  been 
in  the  pra£lice  of  going  to  the  South  as  labourers.  But  both 
ihefe  caufes  conjoined,  could  not  have  produeed  the  effeft 

4  B  a  above 


t  It  his  not  been  the  pra^ice  in  this  ptriih  to  keep  &  regifter  of  varriajes 
and  deaths,  and  therrfore  no  exa£l  account  can  be  given  of  them ;  but  it  ii 
fttppoTed  that  the  average  of  the  fonaer  maj  be  about  %  and  of  the  lattcf 
about  3Q.  * 


5^4  ^f^fjfi^^  -Account 

Above  ftated.  It  is  probaUe  that  many  fiu&HIes  bavc  left 
the  parifliy  (though  by  reafon  of  the  extent  of  it»  they  hare 
not  been  taken  notice  of^)  in  expedation  of  bettering  their 
^ndition  in  other  places. 

Agricuhure. — ^The  great  bpdy  of  the  people  are  employed 
in  agriculture.  The  farms  are  of  various  6zes ;  fpme  pretty 
large,  of  4ol.  and  50L  rent ;  but  the  far  greater  part  of  dienp 
are  below  adl.,  and  fome  of  them  inconfiderable  crofts,  lately 
brought  intp  culture  from  the  moor,  and  threateniqg  to  re- 
turn to  their  former  ftate.  The  gentlemen,  both  proprietors 
and  farmers,  cultivate  their  lands  in  the  more  approved  man« 
per  pra&ifed  in  the  South,  by  fallowing  and  liming,  and  by 
f owing  grafs,  and  raifing  green  crops.  They  ufe  likewifehorCe^ 
and  cattle  pf  a  large  fize,  and  have  ioiplements,  as  ploughs, 
^arts,  harrqws,  &cc«  qf  a  proportionably  good  quali^.  Bat 
the  common  tenants,  who  occupy  the  far*greater  part  of  th^ 
pariib,  have  horfes  and  cattle  of  a  diminutive  fize,  and  imple^ 
nents  equally  indifferent.  Their  crops  of  courfe  are  prop<»^« 
tionably  poor. 

Etnphfments.m*ThtTt  are  in  the  parifli  artificers  or  trade(ben 
of  the  different  crafts,  as  mafons,  carpenters,  millers,  blacks 
fmiths,  weavers,  tailors,  (hoemakers,  Sec.  who  are  employed  hj 
the  other  inhabitants.  But  as  mod  of  thefe  tradefmen  have  more 
or  lefs  land,  which  they  cultivate,  and  on  which  they  de- 
pend  for  part  of  their  living,  it  would  not  be  eafy,  in  fom^ 
cafes,  to  determine  ^o  which  profeilion  they  belong* 

DiJadvantages.'^Thc  people,  in  general,  appear  fatisfied  with 
their  condition,  though  they  labour  under  great  difadvanta|^eS| 
cbiffly^from  the  caufe^  already  dated,  namely^  the  unfavour- 

7  able 


vUe  quality  of  the  foil  on  the  one.hand»  and  their  bad  treat* 

ynent  of  it  on  the  other.    It  is  much  to  be  regretted,  that  thej 

cannot  be  prevailed  upon  to  adopt  a  preferable  mode  of  farm* 

ing.    Indeed  mod  of  them  are  fo  poor,  as  to  be  fcarcelj  able 

%€>  labour  their  lands  in  the  ordinary  manner ;  but  fuch  as  are 

in  better  circumftances  are  as  averfe  to  improvements,  as  their 

poorer  neighbours.    Though  they  have  plenty  of  ftones  for 

making  enclofures,  moft  of  the  fields  are  quite  open ;  and 

tboogh  there  are  inexhauftible  quarries  of  lime-ftone  on  the 

fides  of  the  Nairn,  and  plenty  of  fuel  for  burning  it,  yet  none 

of  it  is  made  ufe  of,  excepting  by  one  proprietor,  whofe  great 

improvements  ihall  be  ftated  under  the  fubfequent  article. 

Stati  of  Fropiriy^  Rent^  i^f . — ^This  parifii  is  the  property 
of  ten  heritors  $  all  of  whom  have  land  likewife  in  other  pa^ 
riihes.  Only  4  of  thefe  refide  in  the  parifh.  One  refides  at 
Kilravock,  the  feat  of  Rofe  of  Kilravock,  one  of  the  moft  an« 
^ient  and  refpe&able  families  in  this  countiy.  Here  is  an  old 
tower,  faid  to  be  built  in  1460,  and  an  elegant  modem  houfe, 
on  a  rock,  hanging  over  and  waihed  by  the  Nairn.  There 
are  at  this  place  gardens  laid  out  with  great  tafte  ;  orchards, 
flocked  with  fruit  trees  of  various  kinds  ;  woods  of  confider* 
able  extent,  both  natural  and  planted :  All  which  make  this 
the  moft  beautiful  place  in  this  part  of  the  country.  A  little 
above  Kilravock,  lies  Holme,  the  feat  of  Mr.  Rofe  of  Holme* 
It  is  a  neat  Q^nfion-houfe,  beautifully  fituated  on  the  banks 
of  the  river,  with  fome  natural  wood  and  planting  by  it.  And 
above  that  again,  is  Cautray  the  feat  of  David  Davidfon,  £fq« 
who  has  built  a  neat  commodious  houle  there,  with  fuitable 
oiBce  houfes.  He  has  been  remarkably  a&ive  and  fuccefsful 
in  improving  his  eftate,  by  cultivating  and  planting  large 
trafls  of  w^fte  moor  ground ;  by  making  fubftantial  regular 
fences  \  by  limipg  bis  lands,  fowing  gra&t  ^^^  adopting  the 

dthef 


566  StatiJIical  Account 

•thcr  approved  methods  of  fanning,  that  havebeoittfed  wtdi  fiic^ 
oefs  in  the  fouth  of  Scotland  ;  fo  that  bis  property  has  a  qaice 
differeat  appearance  from  what  it  had  about  15  jears  ago,  when 
he  came  to  the  poflli&on  of  it.  He  has  built,  at  his  own  es- 
pence,  an  excellent  bridge  on  the  river,  a  little  below  his  boiifep 
which  is  a  public  benefit.  The  valued  rent  of  the  pariih  is 
3)6iK  i6s«  4d.  Scotch  The  real  rent  is  not  known,  but  is 
foppofed  to  be  about  ajool.  Sterling,  eftimating  the  grain  mt 
the  ordinary  prices  of  the  country.  Part  of  the  rent  is  paid 
in  grain,  oat-meal  and  barley,  but  moil  of  it  in  money. 

Ecckfiqftical  Jlfa//£r#-.-The  bmilies  of  Kilravock  and  Cal, 
der  are  vice«patrons  of  the  pariih.  The  itipend  is  80  bolls 
di  grain,  and  560  merks  Scotch  in  money,  with  50  mcrks  for 
communion  elements.  There  are  two  glebes,  as  already  mcii« 
tioned.  Both  the  church  and  manfe  have  been  built  about 
15  years  ago,  have  been  repaired  fince  that  time,  and  are  at 
prefent  in  pretty  good  condition.  The  diftriA  called  the  Ltjs^ 
almoil  detached  from  the  iclt  of  the  pariih,  is  in  ufe,  on  ac- 
count of  its  great  diflance  from  the  church,  to  have  preach-* 
ing  once  a  month  during  fnmmer  and  autumn.  But  as  there 
is  neither  houfe  nor  church  there,  when  the  weather  is  un£a* 
vourable,  both  miniite^  and  congregation  find  great  incoa- 
▼enience,  by  being  in  the  open  air.  Theie  are  in  this  parii^ 
no  d  flenters  from  the  Eiiabliihed  Church,  excepting  3  or  4  of 
the  Epifcopal  perfuafiont  who  neverthcleHi  commonly  atten4 
the  church* 

SchwJs^ — ^There  is  a  parochial  fchoof  fitualed  near  the 
dinrch.  The  falary  of  the  f<^ioolma()er,  is  a  chjderof  grain, 
allocated  on,  and  paid  by  the  tenants,  in  proportion  to  the  ez^ 
tent  of  their  farms.  This,  with  the  fchool  fees  (which  are  the 
Dune  as  in  the  neighbouring  pariihe$)|  and  the  per^uifues  be« 

longing 


loliglitg  Utile  office  of  feiBon  clerk^  make  the  whole  proTifioo 
for  tbe  fchoolmafter,  at  an  average,  about  92L  a  year.  Tbero 
is  likewiie,  in  the  parifk,  afchoel,  on  tbe  eftabliihmeot  of  th«i 
Society  for  Propagating  Chriftian  Knowledge*  The  falarjp 
annexe^  to  it  is  Z2l«  Tbe  fcboolonafter  is  fomilhed  with 
different  articles  of  accommodation^  by  the  heritor  and  tenants 
of  the  lands  on  which  the  fchool  is  ftationed ;  as  a  free  houfe, 
fuel,  grafs  and  ftraw  to  a  cow,  a  fmall  garden*  Scc«  The  child* 
ren  of  tbe  poor  are  taught  at  this  fchool  gratis.  Both  fchools 
are  well  attended,  as  the  people  are  much  difpofed  to  givs 
education  to  their  children.  ^ 

Poor— There  is  a  great  number  of  poor  people  in  this  pa« 
riih.  As  it  is  well  fupplied  with  fuel,  this  is  an  inducement 
to  them  to  emigrate  to  it  from  other  places,  where  that  arti« 
cle  is  fcarce.  The  number  generally  on  tbe  roll  is  from  60 
to  70.  The  funds  for  their  provifion  are  the  weekly  collect 
tions  in  the  church,  tbe  hire  of  a  mortclotb  or  pall,  ufed  by 
the  pariihioners  at  burials,  and  the  interefl  of  6ol.,  due  to  the 
kirk-feffion  by  bond.  Thefe  funds  afford  only  a  fmall  occafion^ 
al  relief  to  this  number.  Their  chief  fupport  arifes  from  the 
benevolence  of  their  neighbours,  who  are  always  ready  to  re- 
lieve the  indigent  and  diftreiTed.  There  are  few  travelling 
beggars  belonging  to  this  pariih,  and  no  caufe  for  any :  But 
as  no  effedtual  meafures  are  taken,  in  this  part  of  the  country, 
to  prevent  public  begging,  this  pariih,  and  the  neighbouring 
ones,  are  viiited  by  many  from  different  and  diftant  parts  of  the 
Highlands. 

jlf///x..jLBefides  common  mills,  there  is  within  the  pari(h 
a  large  handtome  flour  mill,  on  the  Kilravock  property  and 
another  of  a  leiTer  fizc  o&  that  of  Holme.  At  thefe  mills,  a  con. 

fiderable 


'56ft  Stati/Ucal  Actouni 

fidenUe  qaantity  of  wheat  is  jnanufiiftared,  in  geoen^ 
difpo&d  of  at  Invemcli,  Fort  George,  ficc.  There  is  alfe  a 
flax  mill  where  the  greateft  part  of  the  flax  raifed  in  this  aod 
die  neighbouring  parilhes»  is  ma&u&ftnredy  and  of  which  Mr. 
Hole  of  Holme  is  proprietor. 


NtJM4 


*f  Lairg.  569 

iNT  U  M  B  E  R     XLl^. 
PARISH    OF    IaIRG. 


(PrtJByttry  of  Dornoch — County  pf  Sutherland. — Synod  qf 
Sutherland  and  Caithnefs.') 


Bx  A  Friehd  to  Statistical  lNClpiiiii!s. 

fXmmtm 

Name^  Situation  and  Extent* 

LAiRO,  or  Lario,  ibould  be  written  La  ri  Liig  ;  that  is^ 
befide  or  bofdtring  cfi  the  iaie.  "this  definition  agrees 
well  with  its  fituation,  for  almoft  the  whole  o^  the  parifli  lies 
on  the  fides,  or  within  fight  of  Locb-Shin.  l*he  extent  of  thtf 
parifli  is  94  miles  long,  from  E.  to  W. ;  and  the  greateft 
breadth  not  above  8,  including  the  breadth  of  Loch-Shini 
which  rtins  through  about  20  miles  of  the  length  of  the 
parifh. 

Soil  and  iurface.'^The  foil  is  various ;  in  a  few  places  a 
good  fertile  loam,  in  others  gravelifb  ;  and,  in  many,  moflj^ 
tety  wet  and  fpoutj.  B7  far  the  greateft  part  of  the  pariik 
Confifts  of  hills,  and  very  extenfive  trads  of  heath.  Not  ft 
twentieth  part  of  it  cdnffils  of  arable  land ;  stor  is  there  much 

Voi.  XI.  4  C  of 


57^  itatiJUcal  Account 

of  what  is  called  a  imdly^  or  fwcet  grafs,  bat  a  vail  deat  td 
heath  and  coarfe  grals. 

CiimaU. — ^The  climate  is  rainy ;  but  though  the  air  is  very 
damp,  there  is  no  diftemper  peculiar  to  the  pariOi.  The  ia^ 
habitantSt  having  the  ^reateft  abundance  of  peatff,  take  care  to 
keep  a  good  fire  without^  and,  as  often  as  they  can  get  at 
fpiritous  liquorst  they  will  kindle  a  fire  within  ;  nor  do  they 
apprehend  more  danger  to  their  conftitntions  from  the  one 
than  from  the  other. 

River^  Fi/h^  Lake,  Wood^  &c — ^There  is  no  river  of  any 
note,  except  the  river  Shin;  which,  running  out  of  the  E.  end 
of  the  loch  of  that  naitoe,  for  about  a  mile,  comes  upon  a  moft 
tremendous  rock,  of  about  ao  feet  high,  and  runs  over  it 
in  a  prodigious  cafcade.  The  old  method  of  killing  the  fal- 
mon  of  the  Shin,  (which  are,  in  general,  a  much  larger  and 
coarfer  fifii  than  any  other  in  Scotland),  was  by  thrufting  a 
long  creel  or  bafket  in  behind  the  calcade,  at  the  foot  of  the 
rock,  and  every  fiAi  that  jumped  to  get  op,  was  (ure  to  fall  h 
the  balket,  and  kill  itfelf  by  the  fall.  When  the  river  hap- 
penod  to  be  very  high,  a  few  of  the  lighteft  filh  would  get  over 
the  cafcade,  and  make  their  way  to  the  lake,  which  was  per« 
haps  the  circumftanoe  that  preferved  the  breed,  the  whole  ran 
of  the  water,  from  the  great  fall,  being  fo  extremely  rough 
and<rapid,  that  there  is  no  fand  nor  gravel  to  proteft  the  fpawn^ 
but  the  filling  company  have  now  erefted  cruives  upon  the 
Shin,  near  the  place  where  it  difcharges  itfelf  into  the  Kyle 
of  Sutherland.'Loch*Shin  is  a  fine  (heet  of  water,  of  about 
ao  miles  long,  and  not  above  a  broad.  There  is  a  good  wood, 
chiefly  birch,  on  the  S.  fide  of  it,  r>elonging  to  Mr.  Munro  of 
Fointifield,  and  foz^e  on  the  N.  fide,  too,  at  the  place  called 

Shinii6i£» 


1 


of  Lairg.  J71 

0htnnrfs«    There  is  alfo,  at  the  fide  of  the  loch,  below  Shin- 
nefs,  the  end  of  a  large  vein  of  iime*ftone« 

Po^flt^sffoif.-— Though  the  face  of  the  pariih  is  very  exten-^ 
five,  it  is  but  thinly  inhabited.  There  has  been,  however,  a 
confiderable  increafe  within  thefe  50  jears. 

In  the  year  1736,  the  number  of  examinable  pcrfons  was  750 

The  number  of  fouls  at  prefent,  of  all  ages,  's         -       1  .^5^ 
The  return  to  Dr.  Webfter,  in  17559  was  only         •       i|Oio 

Increafe  fince  17559  «  •  «>  34Q 

CattU  and  i*r0^2»r#.-^Cowa  and  hqrfes  cannot  well  be  num* 
beredv  as  the  people's  whole  Uock  lies  in  them,  excepting  a 
few  flbeep  and  goats.  They  always  buy  a  great  deal  of  grain, 
the  land  not  producing  above  8  months  bread  for  the  inhabit 
tants  ;  for  it  is  much  more  calculated  ior  breeding  cattle  thaa 
for  yielding  corn.  The  only  crops  are,  oats,  barley^  a^d  po^ 
'tatocs,  and  thefe  in  (canty  portions,  as  the  land  is  moftly  all 
let  to  fmall  tenai^ts,  who  have  neither  inclination  nor  abilitj 
to  improve  their  farms^ 

J{#ii/.-«The  rent  of  this,  as  weH  as  of  the  pariflies  in  the 
neighbour- lood,  is  a  deep  arcanum^  known  only  to  faftors, 
who  (it  Ihuuld  feem)  think,  that  if  the  clergy  or  the  public 
were  let  into  the  f*^cret,  they  would,  by  fome  legerdemain  or 
other,  deprive  them  of  the  handling  of  it,  or  their  conilitu- 
ents  of  the  ufe.  It  is  calculated,  however,  that  the  grofs  rent 
does  not  exceed  550L  or  600I.  Sterling.  The  ^>roprietors  are 
the  Countefs  of  Sutherland,  Pointzfield,  Achany^  and  Captain 
Slathifon,  wad&tter  of  Shinnefs. 

4  C  21  Ecckfiqfiical 


5  7^  Statjfiital  Account 

Ecelefiajtical  State,— Tht  living  is  eztdlj  800  in^kf 
Scotch,  paid  in  money,  and  a  glebe.  A  new  manfe  is  baild- 
ing.  Small  as  the  ftipend  is,  it  does  not  all  arife  from  the 
rents  of  the  pari(h,  200  merks  of  it  being  paid  oat  of  the 
lands  of  Skibo,  in  the  parifli  of  Dornoch  ;  which  is  one  evi* 
dence  that  the  rent-roll  of  the  diflrid  is  not  very  great. 

Maimers  and  AfonrZr.-^Notwithftanding  the  difisdrantage 
of  a  rainy  climate,  farely  nothing  but  that  want  of  induftrjt 
which  reigns  among  the  inhabitants,  conld  prevent  their 
availing  themfelves  of  the  lime*>fione  thej  have  in  fnch 
abundance,  for  meliorating  their  land.  Refpefting  their  cha- 
rafter,  in  general,  it  is  not  mud)  in  its  favour,  that  they  feeou 
ed  to  entertain  a  particular  dread  of  thefe  ftatiftical  inquiries, 
and  would  not  permit  the  minifter  of  the  difirift  to  draw  up 
an  account  of  it,  as  if  confcious  that  it  conld  not  tnra  out 
SDUch  in  their  favour. 

Improvements  Suggejied. — ^The  greateft  iniprovement,  of 
which  this  part  of  the  kingdom  is  capable,  (and  indeed  it  is  a 
national  concern),  is  that  of  making  an'  inland  navigation, 
through  this  parifli,  from  the  £.  to  the  W.  fern.  It  is  but 
5  computed  miles  (or  about  7}  £ngli(h),  from  the  end  of 
Loch-Shin  to  a  navigable  arm  of  the  Wefiem  Ocean.  The 
loch,  (or  lake),  itfelf  is  about  z8  miles  long.  It  was  never 
fathomed,  but  is  fuppofed  to  be  very  deep.  It  is  joined  to  an- 
other fmall  loch,  out  of  which  the  river  Shin  runs,  and  enters 
the  Moray  Frith,  an  arm  of  the  £.  fea.  The  advantage  that 
would  refult,  from  joining  the  two  feas,  to  the  diflrifts  in  the 
neighbourhood,  and  to  the  public  at  large,  need  not  be  dwelt 
upon.  It  would  fooa  be  the  meahs  of  ellabliibing  fiiberics, 
manufaftures,  commerce  and  induftry,  overall  die  neighbour- 
)iood.  Perhaps  it  might  alio  prevent  the  dangerous  and  cir- 
cuitous 


cuicoas  naTigadon  through  the  Pentland  Frith.  And  the  na- 
tural advantages  in  its  favour  are  fo  ftrong,  that  the  under- 
takers,  it  is  believed,  would  be  fufficientlj  indemnified  for  the 
expeoce  attending  it,  by  the  income  that  it  would  produce. 
Another  improvement  to  be  recommended  is,  that  of  convert- 
ing the  ftrnls,  from  a  cattle  to  a  iheep  ftock,  for  which  this 
parilh  is  particularly  well  calculated.  It  would  be  unneceflaxj 
to  remove  the  prefent  poiTeflbrs  for  that  purpofe  ;  for  unlefs 
they  are  very  fiubom  and  obftinate  indeed,  they  might  eafily 
be  prevailed  upon  to  convert  their  cattle  into  (beep ;  and  to 
learn  the  beft  modes  of  managing  the  new  ftock,  in  the  acquir- 
ing of  which,  there  is  no  difficulty  or  witchcraft. 


NUM- 


^74  Statiftical  Acfounf 


NUMBER    L. 


PARISH  OF  CALLANDER. 

tfrtJbyUry  of  Dumblane^Couniy  of  Perth — S^aod  of  Ptrtk 
and  Stirling,) 


By  the  Rev,  Mr.  Jamks  Robertsov,  Minifies  of  thm^ 
Parijb^ 


Etymology  of  tbe  Name* 

THE  etymology  of  Callander  is  by  fome  underflooA 
to  be  from  LaUa-flraid.  which  is  tbe  Gaelic  name 
given  to  it  by  the  common  people  :  CeJla^  (ignifying  tbe 
landing  place  at  the  Ferry,  where  the  village  is  built  ^  and 
Struidj  the  ftreet  or  avenue  leading  from  the  cafile  of  Callan- 
der to  the  fame  ferry.  By  others,  it  is  thought  to  refer  to  a 
more  remote  period  than  the  exiftence  ot  the  caftle,  or  any  ave- 
nue in  this  country,  and  to  be  derived  from  CaUin-doir*  which 
IS  alfo  a  Gatlic  word,  and  iignifies  the  habile  grove.  From  the 
remains  ot  hazle  woods  in  (his  neighbourhood,  and  the  aptnefs 
of  this  kind  ot  foil  to  carry  hazle  and  oak,  it  is  probable,  that 
aot  only  this  place,  but  other  places,  which  have  a  iimilar 
same,   originally   abounded,   or   do  (till  abound  with   that 

timber, 

J^re£!ion. 


^    of  t^atiander.  jf^J 

'  JkreSioH,  lie. — Callander  was  formerly  divided  into  two 
pariihes,  the  one  called  Leney,  and  the  other  a  chapel  dependent 
•n  Incbmabomo^  where  the  Nories  of  that  ilk  had  their  familj 
burying  place.  The  remains  of  both  are  vifible,  and  pebple 
burj  at  both  places.  The  northern  branch  of  the  river,  more 
(han  a  century  ago,  changed  its  conrfe,  and  feparated  the 
ehurch  of  Leney  from  part  of  its  parochial  bounds  ;  and  the 
£ime  ioundationy  in  the  fouthern  branch,  fwept  away  the 
bridge  leading  to  the  chapel ;  whereupon  both  pariflies  w^ne 
Hnited,  and  the  p^rifli  church  was  built  at  Callander,  below 
the  jonftion  of  the  two  branches,  where  it  now  (lands. 

Kxient,  Situation^  and  Surface •^^Th^  extent  of  this  pffrkh, 
from  E.  to  W.,  is  about  i6  computed  miks  ;  and  its  breadth, 
at  the  E.  end  about  lo  miles.  Its  form  is  like  a  lady's  fon 
half  fpread.  It  is  fituated  between  56*^  15'  and  ax'  N., 
and  from  x^  to  i^  24'  W.  of  the  meridian  of  Edinburgh, 
including  the  greateft  extent  of  the  mountair.3.  The  ap^ 
pearance  of  the  country  on  the  W.  and  N.,  is  mountainous. 
The  bills  were  formerly  black,  and  covered  with  heathy  but, 
hj  the  introduftion  of  (hcep,  within  thefe  30  years,  they  are 
beginning  to  lofe  their  fliaggy  cover,  and  to  aflume  a  more 
verdant  hue.  About  Callander  there  is  a  beautiful  vaU 
ley,  in  which  are  fituated,  not  only  the  villages  of  Callan^ 
icr  and  Kilmahog^  but  feveral  fine  farms,  in  a  plain  of  fome 
extent,  which  is  formed  by  the  confluence  of  two  confidcrable 
branches  of  the  Forth,  and  covered  with  rich  meadows  and 
fertile  arable  land.  The  higher  ground  is  here  and  there  clad 
with  thriving  oak  woods,  and  plantations  of  trees  of  various 
kinds ;  and  the  bold  ilupendous  rock,  above  Callander,  di« 
verfifies  the  fcene,  and  forms  a  fine  contrail  to  the  valley  and 
meandering  links  of  the  river  below. 


57^  Stat'^lccA  Account 

SoU^  Incbfura^  fcc.— The  foil  of  this  diftrift,  in  geaexal, 
is  a  light  graveli  capable  of  high  cttltivadon,  and  makii^  an 
iaunediate  and  plentiful  return.  On  the  eftate  of  Leoej, 
there  is  fome  rich  loam,  or  bough  Imnd^  probablj  formed  by 
the  fiediment  of  a  rivulet  which  runs  through  it,  the  tail 
being  of  the  fame  deep  red  colour  with  the  earth  and  rocks 
in  the  glen  above.  Agriculture  is  making  rapid  progrefs. 
inhe  arable  ground  is  moftly  inclofed,  either  with  ftone  waUsi 
•r  with  hedge  and  ditchp  having,  in  many  places  about  Callan« 
der,  hedge  rows.  Which  gives  the  countr/  a  comfortable  a&d 
neat  appearance  *• 

Romaniic  Prq/^i3s.^^Tht  Trolacks  are  often  vifited  b j  per- 
foQS  of  tafte,  who  are  defirous  of  feeing  nature  in  her  rudeft 
and  moft  uopoliihed  ftate.    iThey  are  fituatcd  about  zo  miles 


s  The  paring  tnd  burning  of  mofs,  sod  alfo  the  drill  huibaadry,  ia  reariof 
leguminous  crops,  was  introduced  into  this  country,  about  30  jrears  ago,  by  BCr. 
Buchanan  of  Camfinore ;  who,  by  means  of  reading,  extanfive  obferratiNi  and 
experience,  has  not  only  impraved  his  own  eftate,  but  has,  by  his  example, 
difiiifed  a  fpirit  of  culrivation  through  the  country,  which  it  never  had  before. 
The  late  Mr  Buchanan  of  Leney  introduced  the  trenching  of  groond  in  the 
•pen  fields.  He  cleared  the  moft  rugged  and  untoward  fall,  OMde  good  arablft 
land,  where  even  the  grafs  w^  tery  coarfe  and  feanty.  The  firft  two  crops 
paid  the  expence ;  and  the  ground,  completely  fubdued,  was  fitted  for  future 
profit.  The  farmers  have  not  generally  adopted  thia  plan,  either  owing  to  their 
want  of  capital,  the  (hortnefs  of  their  leafes,  or  to  their  having  already  at  much 
cleared  land  as  they  can  keep  in  good  order.  Some  of  them,  indeed,  take  in  new 
land  with  the  plough,  where  they  muft  meet  with  the  Came  obftni^oos  of 
ftoner,  and  rocks,  and  buflies  every  year. 

The  regulations  of  the  late  commiflionen  of  annexed  eftates,  contributed 
much  to  improve  this  country,  and  to  introduce  a  better  ftyle  of  houfes  amoof 
ikeir  farmers  and  villagers,  which  has  beoa  followed  by  the  country  in  gencrat' 


of  Cailariden  jjf 

W*.  from  Callander,  and  acceilible  by  a  carriage  road.     A  tra<; 

vcller  going  by  the  S.  limb  of  Bcn-ledi^  and  along  the  fides  of 

two  beautiful  lakes^  has  thefe  lakes  fometimes  concealed  front 

his  view;  and  fometimes  they  appear  in  all  their  extent,  hav- ' 

sng  their  banks  clad  with  a  fuccedion  of  fields^  trees,  houfes, 

Aocks  and  herds.    One  whilo  his  road  is  formed  on  a  bulwark, 

like  the  key  of  a  harbour,  raifed  on  the  very  borders  of  the 

^eep  $    another  while,  he  travels  through  darkening  woods* 

iwhofe  folemn  gloom  is  fcarcely  penetrated  by  a  fay  of  the 

fun.  On  the  right  is  the  foreft  of  Glenfinlas^  which  is  green  td 

the  very  top,  and  .was  once  covered  with  the  deer  of  the  kings 

of  Scotland  ^  on  his  left  is  £en-vehu^  which  was  once  a  foreft 

of  the  family  of  Monteath.  Ben-penu^  is  called  the /mall  moun" 

tain^  becaufe  it  is  lefs  than  Ben-ledi^  or  Ben^/omond  *  froni 

which  it  18  almoft  equally  diftant,  forming  nearly  a  AraighC 

line  with  both. 

When  you  edtcr  the  ^ro/acbs^  there  is  fiich  dn  aflemblage 
of  wildnefs  and  of  rude  grandeur,  ^s  beggars  all  defcription^ 
and  fills   the  mind   ^ith  the  mo(t  fublime  conceptions.     It 
feems  as  if  a  whole  mountain  had  been  torn  in  pieces^  and 
frittered  down  by  a  conrulfion  of  the  earth )  and  the  huge 
fragments  of  rocks,  and  woodsy  and  hills^  fcattered  in  confulion, 
for  two  miles,  into  the  ^^  end,  and  on  the  fides  of  Locb-Ca^ 
tberint.    The  accefs  to  the  lake  is  through  a  harrow  piafs,  of 
half  a  mile  in  lengthy  fuch  as  JEntas  had  in  his  dreary  pafiage 
to  vifit  his  fathc;r's  home,  '*  vqftoque  immatUs  biaiuJ^    The! 
rocks  are  of  a  fiup  end  nous  height,  and  feem  residy  to  cloC^, 
above  the  traveller's  head,  or  to  fall  down  and  bury  him  ia 
their  rains*    A  huge  column  of  thefe  rocks  ^vas,  fome  yeara 
Vol.  XI.  4  D  ^  ago# 


•  Thif  is  »  contraiflion  for  Men-loch -lomiffi  the  hill  of  the  lake  full  of  jflandu 


57^  Statijlical  Account 

ago,  torn  with  thunder,  and  lies  in  large  blocks  yety  near  the 
toad  I  which  mud  have  been  a  tremenduous  fcene  to  pailen- 
gers  at  that  time.  Where  there  is  any  foil«  their  fides  are 
covered  with  aged  weeping  birches,  which  hang  down  dieir 
venerable  locks,  in  waving  ringlets,  as  if  to  cover  the  naked- 
nefs  of  the  rocks.  The  fenfible  horizon  is  bounded  by  the(S 
weeping  birches,  on  the  fuinmit  of  every  hiU,  through  which 
you  fee  the  motion  of  the  clouds,  as  they  ikoot  acrofs  behind 
them.  The  end  of  the  lake  is  nothing  but  one  of  the  feveral 
bays  or  creeks,  which,  on  all  hands,  run  boldly  amidft  the 
rocks  and  hills. 

Travellers,  who  wi(h  to  fee  all  they  can  of  this  fingular 
phenomenon,  generally  fail  W,  on  the  S.  fide  of  the  lake,  to 
the  Rock  and  Den  of  the  Gbo/t^  whofe  dark  recefies,  from  their 
gloomy  appearance,  the  imagination  of  fuperilition  conceived 
to  be  the  habitation  of  fupernatural  beings. 

In  failing  you  difcover  many  arms  of  the  lake.  Here  a  bold 
head^land,  where  the  bhck  rocks  dip  into  unfathomable  wa- 
ter ;  there,  the  white  fand  in  the  bottom  of  a  bay,  bleached 
for  ages  by  the  waves.  In  walking  on  the  N.  fide,  the  road  is 
fbmetimes  cut  through  the  face  of  the  folid  rock,  which  rifes 
upwards  of  too  feet  perpendicular  above  the  lake :  Sometimes 
the  view  of  the  lake  is  loft  ^  then  it  burfts  fuddenly  on  the 
eye ;  and  a  dufter  of  ifflands  and  capes  appear,  at  different  dif« 
tances,  which  give  them  an  apparent  motion  of  different  de-* 
grees  of  velocity,  as  the  fpedator  rides  along  the  oppofite 
beach  :  At  other  times,  his  road  is  at  the  foot  of  rugged  and 
ftupenduous  cliffs  ;  and  trees  are  growing  where  no  eanh  is 
to  be  feen.  Every  rock  has  its  echo ;  every  grove  is  voeal, 
by  the  melodious  harmony  of  birds,  or  by  the  fweet  airs 
of  women  and  children,  gathering  filberts,  in  th^ir  feafon. 
Down  the  fide  of  the  oppofite  mountain,  after  a  fliower  of 
raioy  flow  a  hundred  white  ftreams,  which  rufh  with  in- 

credible 


of  CalkinJer.  579 

credible  yelocitj  and  noife  into  the  lake,  and  fpread  their 
froth  upon  its  furface.    On  one  fide,  the  water  eagle  fits  ia 
majeflj,  undid urbed,  on  his  well  known  rock,  in  fight  of  his 
ned  on  the  face  of  Ben-venu ;  the   heron  (talks  among  the 
reeds  in  fearch  of  his  prey;  and  the  fportive  ducks  gambol  oa 
the  waters,  or  dive  below :  On  the  other,  the  wild  goats  climb, 
where  they  have  fcarce  p*ound  for  the  foles  of  their  feet; 
and  the  wild  fowls,  perched  on  trees,  or  on  the  pinnacle  of  a 
rocky  look  down  with  compofed  defiance  at  man*.  In  a  word, 
both  by  land  and  water,  there  are  fo  many  turnings  and  wind- 
iogs,  fo  many  heights  and  hollows,  fo  many  glens,  and  capes, 
and  bays,  that  one  cannot  advance  lo  yards  without  having 
his  profped  changed,  by  the  continual  appearance  of  new  ob- 
jects, while  others  are  confiantly  retiring  out  of  fight.     This 
fcene  is  clofed  by  a  wefi  view  of  the  lake,  for  feveral  miles, 
having  its  fides  lined  with  alternate  clumps  of  wood  and  anu 
ble  fields,  and  the  fmoke  rifing  in  fpiral  columns  through  the 
air,    from  villages  which  are  concealed  by  the  intervening 
woods  ;  and  the  profpe£i  is  bounded  by  the  towering  Alps  of 
Arrocbar^  which  are  chequered  with  fiiow,  or  hide  their  heads 
in  the  clouds.    The  Hon.  Mrs.  Drummond  of  Pe&th  has 
ereded  booths  of  wicker  work,  in  the  moft  convenient  places, 
for  the  accommodation  of  firangers,  who  vifit  this  wild  and 
pidurefque  landfcape ;  and  the  tenants  of  the  next  farm  are 
very  ready  to  (how  the  beauties  of  the  place  to  travellers. 

4  D  2  Mountains, 


*ln  one  of  t1)e  defiles  of  the  Trofachs,  two  vr  three  of  the  natires  met  a  band 
of  Cromweir*  foldiers,  and  forced  them  to  return,  after  leaving  one  of  their 
comrades  dead  on  the  fpot,  whofe  grave  marks  the  fcene  of  aAion,  and  gives 
name  to  tltc  j>als.  In  one  or  other  of  the  chafms  of  this  fingular  place,  there 
&ved,  for  many  years,  a  diftiUer  of  fmnggled  fpirits,  who  eluded  the  moft  dili- 
gent fearch  of  the  officers  of  the  revenue,  although  they  knew  perfedly  he  wat 
there  \  bf  cauTc  a  guide  could  not  be  bribed  to  difcover  his  retreat. 


5  8o  Statijltcal  Account 

Mountains. — Bek-LE-bi,  contraflcd  for  BenJe^ia^  iht  Hill 
pj   God^^    is  3009  feet  perpendicular  in  height  above  the 
fea  f .    No  other  mountain,  of  half  that  altitude,  intercepts  the 
profpedy  from  Benledi  down  the  trafl  of  the  Forth  to  the  Ger- 
man 

*  DiA,  which  is  invariably  the  name  of  God  in  Gaelic,  it  the  fane  word, 
lyjth  in  fpelling  and  pronunciation,  with  the  name  which  the  Greeks,  in  the  ob. 
iique  cafes,  gave  to  the  Supreme  ^eing;  and  it  is  probable,  that  all  the  caics 
were  originally  from  this  word.  Many  other  inftances  of  the  fame  kind  might 
be  pointed  out ;  but  it  will  come  in  our  way,  in  thcfe  few  pages,  to  find  that 
the  words  fignifytng  iand,  a  caJlU  and  barhour,  are  the  fame  in  Gmriic  and  in 
Lntin ;  and  the  name  of  the  Deity  is  the  fame  in  Gaelic  and  in  Greek.  "Whcr 
ther  the  Celtic  language  borrow  s  the  firll  from  the  Romans,  and  the  laft  from 
the  Greeks,  or  whether  the  Romans  and  Greeks  borrowed  fropi  the  Celtic,  (the 
language  of  a  more  ancient  ])eople  than  either,  and  of  a  more  ancient  analogy 
tlian  their  languages),  the  reader  who  underftands  the  three  laoguAges,  is  left 
to  judge. 

f  By  reafon  of  the  altitude  of  Benledi,  and  of  its  beaatifyl  conic&l  iSgure, 
the  people  of  the  adjacent  country,  to  a  great  diflance,  aflembled  annually  oq 
its  top,  about  the  time  of  the  fumiper  folitice,  during  the  Druidical  priefihood, 
to  worfliip  the  Deity.  This  aflTcmbly  feems  to  have  been  a  provincial  or  f}Tiodi- 
cal  meeting,  wherein  all  the  different  congregations  witlun  the  bounds  wiflied  t« 
get  as  near  to  heaven  as  they  could,  to  pay  their  Iwmage  to  the  God  of  heaven. 
Tradition  fays,  that  this  devotional  mcctirg  continued  thipc  days.  The  fam- 
mit  of  tlie  mountain  is  fmoothcd,  and  frtc  pf  ftones ;  which  feems  to  be  the 
work  of  art :  But  no  ftones  wiih  infcriptions  can  be  found  wilhin  the  vicinity  of 
that  place.  The  Druids  were  ignorant,  it  appears,  of  the  nfe  of  letters,  or  ex- 
tremely (by  to  commit  any  part  of  their  creed  to  writing;  but  they  were  fond, 
\n  a  very  high  degree,  of  great  and  (lupcnduous  monuments,  to  mark  their  re- 
treaty  and  to  pcri)etuate  the  remembrance  of  their  devotion.  They  had  ex- 
acflly  the  idea  of  Solomon,  concerning  the  imuienfity  of  the  Supreme  Being; 
"  That  if  the  heaven  of  heavens  could  not  coptain  him,  how  much  lefs  a  houfe 
**  made  with  hands  !"  They  accounted  all  fpacc  his  temple,  and  all  nature  his 
altar  ;  they  had  no  walls  but  the  horizon,  and  no  car.opy  but  the  cope  of  hea- 
ven. Their  circles  of  (tones,  and  pven  the  charcoal  of  the  fi^el  tliey  ufcd  in 
burning  facrifices,  are  frequent  in  groves  and  pl^iim,  by  the  licks  of  running 
ilreams ;  but  they  do  not  fcepi  to  have  had  any  images. 

Rude  figures,  indeed,  of  the  human  and  other  fpecies,  have  been  found  in  thi$ 
parini,  cut  out  of  flone.  But  thefe  idolatrous  relics  aic  more  modem  than  the 

Drtlids. 


of  Callander.  581 

fkian  Ocean.  Stuic-a-chroin,  the  Peak  of  Rutting^,  There 
has  lately  been  difcovered  here  an  iron  ring,  fixed  by  a  ftaple 
to  the  rock.  This  ring  is  faid  to  be  very  old,  and  corroded 
'With  Tuft  and  the  lapfe  of  time.  Many  opinions  have  been 
formed  concerning  the  ufe  to  which  it  was  applied.  There 
arc  feveral  accounts  of  rings  found  in  rocks,  and  of  'anchors 
and  Qiells  dug  up,  in  places  near  the  level  of  the  fca  :  oyfter 
ihells  ate  found  in  abundance,  feveral  feet  below  the  furface 
of  the  earth,  betwixt  Callander  and  Stirling  f .  B^nvenu  has 
been  already  defcribed.  Binean^  and  other  hills  of  lefs  note, 
will  be  taken  notice  of  afterwards. 

Lakes, 

Prnids.  Two  of  them  have  been  lately  difcovered,  on  the  farm  of  Ancy,  at  the 
chapel  of  St.  Bridget,  (a  Danifli  ladr  of  the  xjth  century,  or  an  Irifli  lady  of 
l^lcr  date);  probably  the  faint  and  her  dog,  which, from  the  quality  of  the  (lone, 
fc era  to  have  been  imported  into  this  country.  If  the  Druid  pricits  and  their 
people  afTembled  on  the  top  of  Benledi,  there  can  be  little  doubt  of  their  hav- 
ing a^ed  ill  a  fimilar  manner  in  other  countries,  although  the  tradition  of  this 
practice  may  be  loft.  Their  circles  of  ftoncs,  their  veneration  for  they^^  and 
for  ^re,  their  meetings  on  the  tops  of  hills ^  and  their  worfhipping  in  the  open 
air,  might  afford  ground  for  many  probable  conjedlures  concerning  their  ideas  of 
the  pcrfeftions  of  the  Deity,  and  the  fource  fipni  which  they  borrowed  their  rite* 
and  modes  of  worfiiip,  v.hich  feem  to  have  had  anAHatic  origin  ;  but  the  brevity 
necefl*ary  in  this  (Vetch  forbids  difquifitiom  of  this  nature.  We  muft  be  con- 
tented with  giving  fbort  hints  :  And  therefore  we  fliall  leave  the  Druids,  by 
only  rematking,  that  the  fame  exprcHion,  which  the  people  then  afed  for  their 
place  of  worftiip,  is  dill  ufed  to  this  day  ;  as  the  Highlanders  more  frequently 
fay,  •*  H'ill  you  go  to  the  JlonesP*  or  "  Hare  you  been  at  the  Jones .^^^  than 
•*  HHll  you  go  to^  or  have  you  heen^  at  church  ?  Mankind,  in  this  inftanre, 
as  they  do  in  many  others,  retain  the  ancient  name,  while  the  thing  fignified  by 
that  name  is  entirely  forgotten,  by  the  gradual  influence  of  new  habits,  nc-ir 
manners,  and  new  modes  of  thinking. 

•  Coir-a-chroin^  the  valley  of  rutting^  is  juft  below  the  peak*  Coir^  when 
applied  to  land,  is  properly  a  valley,  fliut  at  one  end,  in  the  form  of  an  amphi* 
(heatre,  more  or  lefs  oblong.  Gleann  is  a  valley  which  leads  quite  through,  au4 
is  open  at  both  ends.  Few  other  languages,  excepting  the  Gaelic,  diiUoguilh 
fhcfe  two  kinds  of  valleys,  without  a  circumlocutioo. 

I  This  circumftancc  makes  it  probable,  that  the  ocean,  by  its  conftant  flux, 

f«rm« 


5  8a  Statifiical  Account 

Zai»<f yficc.— The  mod  confiderable  lakeb  Loch-Cathekike, 
Tcmarkable  at  the  £.  end  for  the  fingalar  pidarc(qtte  Dceoe 
already  mentioned.  Strath^Gartmy^  in  which  this  lake  is  lira* 
atedt  feems  to  have  borrowed  its  name  from  Gratnaci  or  Gret- 
ney^  the  2d  Earl  of  Mar,  who  pofTeiTed  this  traft  of  land  in 
the  year  xxi4»    It  was  afterwards  exchanged  bj  the  nth 

Earl 


forms  t  foighty  cuiTPnt  from  £.  to  W.,  ind  miift,  in  tbe  covrfe  of  mges^  «s  BoC 
Ion  obfcrvet,  wear  away  and  encroach  on  tke  land,  in  certain  places,  while  it 
leaves  dry  ground  behind  it,  where  formerly  there  had  been  feveral  fathoms  of 
water.  But  there  is  little  probability  of  this  ring  haTing  ever  belonged  to  the 
fca.  It  feems  rather  more  probable,  that  it  has  been  made  for  tyinf  the  dogs 
of  chace,  when  the  hunters  went  to  reft  during  the  night ;  ar  for  the  pur- 
pofe  of  fecuring  cattle  from  ftraying  through  the  mountains,  or  to  the  valley* 
below,  where  they  would  have  become  the  prey  of  wiU  beafts,  before  the 
country  was  cleared  of  woods  and  of  ravenous  animals,  which  lived  on  blood. 
We  need  not  be  furprifed  at  this  precaution,  becaufo  there  is  little  doubt  that 
the  original  inhabitants,  of  this  part  of  the  iOand  at  leaft,  took  up  their  firft  re- 
iidence  on  the  tops  of  hills,  however  unpromiiing  thefe  habitations  may  appear 
now  to  their  pofterity.  The  vefligcs  of  ridges,  where  the  ground  has  certainly 
been  plowed  and  fown,  are  ftill  to  be  fecn  on  places  of  conliderable  altitude, 
and  even  on  fome  very  high  mountains,  in  the  Highlands.  Ridges,  where  the 
flrround  has  once  been  arable,  may  be  traced  diftin^ly  in  the  immediate  neigh- 
bourhood of  this  ring ;  and  the  place  has  its  name  from  that  circumftance.  There 
is  ft  remarlLable  hill,  which  is  called  the  Mountain  9/  Ridges^  in  the  braes  of 
Glenlochy,  on  the  eftate  of  Brcadalbane,  where  the  ridges  and  furrows  are  as 
vifible  and  regular  in  the  heath,  as  though  it  carried,  at  prefent,  a  crop  of 
grain.  Did  our  limits  admit  of  it,  the  inquiry  would  be  curious,  to  inveftigatc, 
how  a  crop  could  be  raifed  in  fuch  elevated  fituations,  where  no  man,  at  this  day, 
could  think  of  bringing  any  grain,  that  we  know  of,  to  maturity.  A  country 
covered  with  wood,  is  much  warmer  than  after  it  is  cleared  and  expofed.  The 
degree  of  cold,  to  which  our  naked  mountains  are  now  laid  open,  muft  be  mora 
intenfe  than  when  the  afli  and  alder  covered  every  valley,  oak  and  fir  the  ikixt) 
of  every  hill,  and  the  hardy  birch  climbed  up  near  its  brow ;  and  it  is  difficult 
to  fay  what  hardlhips  a  certain  kind  of  oats,  whofe  hulk  is  thick,  and  whofe 
grain  isfmall,  can  endure,  with  what  culture  it  is  fati»ficd,  and  with  whst 
fkourifliment  it  is  matured. 


of  Callander.  583 

Earl  of  Mar,  for  the  cflate  otAlloa^  which  was  then  ,In  the  pof- 
feiBon  of  the  crown,  having  been  forfeited  by  Baliol,  the  unruc 
cefsful  competitor  for  the  royalty.  The  next  are  Loch-achrat, 
contraAed  for  Locba-'Cbravy^  u  e.  the  Lake  of  the  Field  of  De^ 
votioftf  Achray  being  the  name  of  a  farm  on  its  banks,  where 
probably  the  Druids  had  a  place  of  worfliip,  and  Loch-vak- 
A- CHOIR,  the  Lake  of  the  white  or  fair  Valley.  The  name  of 
a  farm  on  the  fbuth  fide  is  the  Fair  Valley.  This  whitenefs  is 
different  from  that  afcribed  to  CUn-Jin-glafs  \  and  different 
words  are  ufed  to  denote  them  with  more  precifion.  The 
former  implies  the  whitenefs  of  daizies,  or  the  fair  appbarance 
of  the  fummer's  clothing ;  the  latter  is  defcriptive  of  the 
bleached  whitenefs  of  long  winter  grafs  ;  an  accuracy  of  ex« 
preflion  to  which  many  languages  are  flrangers,  however  miich 
improved.  Thefe  three  lakes  form  a  chain,  connected  by  ihort 
intervak,  of  a  moft  beautiful  river,  lined  with  a  variety  of 
natural  wood,  and  leading  from  Callander  to  the  romantic  view 
at  the  end  of  Loch-Catherine. 

Near  the  top  of  Benledi^  there  is  a  fmall  lake,  called  LocHAif* 
KAK-CORF,  the  fmall  Lake  of  dead  Bodies^  which  got  its  name, 
from  a  whole  company  attending  a  funeral  having  dropt 
through  the  ice,  and  being  drowned,  when  pafling  from  Glen- 
fin.glafs  to  the  chapel  of  St.  Bridget*.  On  the  north  fide  of 
Benledi,  lies  Loca-LUfi-NAiG,  the  crooked  or  winding  Lake 
which,  in  the  diftance  of  4  miles,  forms  two  or  three  fine 
fweeps,  on  the  great  road  to  Fort- William.  About  the  middle 
of  this  lake,  there  is  a  tremenduous  rock,  called  CraX6-na-co- 
BEXtG,  the  Rock  of  the  Joint  Huntings  which  is  the  boundary 
between  two  ellates,  and  a  common  name  giv^  in  the  High- 
lands 

•  Tbe  moft  numerous  clan,  in  this  devoted  company,  were  the  Rsssakachs, 
who  were  fonnerly  a  confiderable  people  in  this  country ;  but  fiace  tliis  difaftt r 
ktfel  them,  they  have  dwindled  very  much  away, 


584  Statlfiical  Account 

lands  to  fach  places.  Upon  hunting  days,  the  two  chieftamt 
met  there,  with  their  hounds,  and  followersi  hunted  about  the 
rock  in  common,  and  afterwards  feparated,  each  turning  awaj 
to  his  own  property. 

Oppofite  to  this  rock,  lies  the  hunting  feat  of  Mr.  Brucc 
of  KiNKAiRD,  a  part  of  theeftate  of  Kier^  where  he  retired  fcr 
fevcral  furomers,  (as  much  as  his  converfation  and  hofpttality 
allowed  him  to  be  rctiied),  ih  order  to  arrange  the  notes  of 
his  memorable  travels  to  Abyffiaia,  which  wil]  tranfmit  his 
fame  to  future  ages,  when  the  barking  of  fnarling  critics  will 
be  heard  no  more.  His  knowledge  of  the  fcriptures,  of  the 
oriental  languages  and  cuftoms*  his  acquaintance  with  the 
whole  circle  of  the  liberal  arts  and  fciences,  his  penetration  in 
knowing  human  nature,  his  addrefs  in  fuiting  hiiufelf  to  iin* 
forfeen  and  incidental  circumflances,  together  with  his  forti-* 
tude  of  mind,  and  ftrength  ot  conftitution,  fitted  him  for  an 
undertaking,  which,  without  all  of  thefe  endowments,  would 
either  have  proved  abortive,  or  have  been  incomplete.  The 
grandeur  of  this  fcene  fuited  the  Hate  of  his  mind.  There  he 
fouiui  the  lake  of  Demhea  in  miniature,  where  the  ancient 
trad  of  a  river  is  covered  by  a  modem  lake,  formed  by  inci- 
dental circumflances,  as  may  be  feen  from  the  top  of  any 
neighbouring  hill,  in  a  clear  day.  Lcchlubasiig  owes  a  great 
part  of  its  prefent  depth  to  its  being  choaked,  at  the  £.  end, 
by  ftones  and  gravel,  which  are  carried  down  the  face  of  Ben- 
ledi,  by  torrents,  in  the  Burn  of  Stani.  And,  in  the  time 
of  floods,  the  muddy  river,  which  enters  Lochlubnaig  at 
the  W.  end,  leaving  the  circumambient  water  unfullied,  and 
flagnant,  pre£;^es  its  yellow  colour  and  (tream,  in  the  origin- 
al trad,  for  a  confiderable  way  down  the  middle  of  the  lake. 
Similar  appearances  take  place  in  the  lochs  of  Balquhidder, 
and  many   others,  where  bars   are  formed,   and   the  water 

thrown  back  by  the  like  caufes. 

There 


hf  Callander.  .    585 

"JThere  is  an  undertaking  already  begun,  at  the  joint  ez« 
pence  of  the  heritors  CQncetned,  for  carrying  off  £everal  feet 
of  water  from  this  lake,  by  catting  thie  bar,  collided  by  the 
burn  of  Siank^  and  by  removing  othet  obftrudioos ;  which^ 
if  executed  by  Mr«  BocdANAif  of  Cambufmbre,  (to  i^hom  the 
fa(>erintendance  of  the  work  is  committed),  with  his  ufual 
aAivity  and  perfeverance,  will  gain  much  land  to  himfelf  in  his 
feftate  of  Strathy re,  as  well  as  to  the  other  proprietors,  where  the 
lake  has  been  incrtafed  and  turned  back  upon  fome  of  their 
flat  ground.  There  is  no  doubt  of  lakes  being  dften  enlarged^ 
and  fometiroes  formed,  by  torrents  falling,  at  right  angles,  into 
rivers  which  run  in  narrow  valleys;  efpecially  where  thefe 
torrents  have  a  long  range,  contain  a  great  body  of  watery  and 
Operate  upon  loofe  and  heavy  materials. 

Jtf«#r/;— All  thefe  waters  meet  at  Callander,  and  form  A 
fine  river,  which  is  called  the  *teathy  L  e.  $be  warm  Rivin 
This  is  the  mo&  coniiderable  branch  of  the  Forth^  both  for  the 
quantity  of  its  waur,  the  ftraightnefs  of  its  courfe  to  the  iei, 
the  deamefs  0^  its  ftream,  and  the  variety  and  number  of  itd 
fifb:  Mr.  Guthrie,  ixi  his  Geographical  Grammar,  and  Mr* 
Nimmo,  in  bis  Hiftory  of  Stirlingfiiire,  call  thl^  branch  by  the 
name  of  Forth ;  although  the  fouth  brandi  more  commonly 
^ets  that  liame.  None  of  our  rivers  are  navigable  within  the 
pari(h« 

Mints  and  FoJJils:  — There  Is  a  beauti f ul  quarry  of  lime-flonei 
or  rather  marble,  on  the  eitate  of  Leney,  the  property  of  Mr^ 
Hamihon  of  Eardow  ie  ;  the  ground  of  which  is  a  deep  blue^ 
with  variegated  llreaks  of  a  pure  white.  Of  this  beautifu} 
ftofie  fome  gentlemen  have  made  jams^  hearths,  and  lintela 
poliihed  fmooth  as  a  mirror.  It  is  commonly  burnt,  and  makej 
a  pure  and  vahiable  lime  ;  and  the  fertility  of  the  environs  of 
Callander  are  very  much  owing  to  this  Aimulus,  jndiciouily 

Vol.  Xli  4  E  applied. 


586  Stati/licdl  Jccxmnt 

applied.  The  ftme  Teia  of  lioie-ftone  is  dtfeovtred  in  ditfir« 
ent  placesi  S.  W.  and  N*  £•  of  this  pariih.  The  quarry  ham 
dipt  fo  much  of  latef  by  the  oacommon  demand  for  lime*  finoe 
the  farmers  began  to  tafte  the  fweets  of  improTementt  withio 
thefe  lafl  so  years,  that  enough  of  this  lime  eaooot  be  got  to 
f apply  the  country  \  fo  that  the  farmers  find  their  aoconat  in 
carrying  fhells  from  Stirling.  The  fpirit  of  improvemeat 
trill  furmount  many  difficulties,  ifrhen  it  is  once  fairly  begun  ; 
dpecially  when  the  farmer  finds,  that  the  fureft  way  of  put- 
ting money  into  his  pocket  is,  to  beftow  much  induftry,  and 
Ibme  expence  in  cultivating  his  ground. 

Slates  are  found  in  different  places  of  this  difirift.  The 
bed  are  the  azure  blue  dates  of  Aney,  on  the  property  of  Mr« 
Stirling  of  Kier,  which  rife  of  a  proper  breadth,  ring  weU# 
Hand  the  carriage,  and  refill  the  influence  of  the  weather  for 
any  length  of  time;  The  inferiority  of  the  flate  at  Kerinoch, 
6n  the  property  of  Mr.  M'Nab  of  M'Nab,  is  chiefly  owing^ 
not  to  any  want  of  metal,  but  to  their  being  led  bcMitiiul, 
and  fmaller  in  the  fixe.  The  purple  flates  at  Tombea,  the 
property  of  Mr.  Drummond  of  Perth,  being  lefs  duraUe  than 
the  other  two  kinds,  fell  at  15s.  the  1000,  while  the  others 
are  fold  at  ais.,  efpecially  the  firft.  Very  fine  flags^  of  a  gray 
colour,  are  found  at  Brackland,  on  the  property  of  the  Earl  of 
Moray^  which  rife  frequently  6  feet  fquare,  not  above  14  or 
a  inches  thick,  and  very  finooth ;  yet,  from  their  tougbnefs^ 
they  are  eafily  carried  to  a  diftance,  and  ufed  for  malt  kilns, 
floors  and  pavement.  Before  the  difcovery  of  blue  date  in 
this  country,  thefe  flags  were  ufed  for  covering  houfes ;  par^^ 
ticularly  Doune  Cadle,  built  by  Murdoch  Duke  of  Albany, 
befides  feveral  others.  Tlie  fiime  kind  of  flate  is  ftill  ufed  in 
Fife,  Strathem,  Strathmore,  and  many  other  parts  of  the 

kmgdom\ 

There 

^  There  was  a  ksd  alias  difcowed,  fomti  yoan  a^,  in  die  H.  £>  fide  «f 

Sealed! 


•f  Callander.  587 

There  are  no  openiogs  or  moaths  of  volcanoes  in  this  part 
ef  the  country  ;  yet  the  moft  frequent  fpecies  of  rock,  about 
CallandeTt  is  a  cooipofitiony  confifttng  of  a  great  variety  of 
finall  ftones,  of  different  colours  and  fixes.  They  are  fo  firmly 
oemeated  together,  by  a  brown  fubilance,  as  hard  as  ftooe 
kfelf,  diat,  when  ufied  in  building  houfes  or  inclofures,  they 
refift  the  infiaeace  of  the  weather  for  ages,  without  lofing  a 
fingle  pasticle*  They  defy  the  edge  of  the  chifiTel  to  render 
them  fmooth,  but  admit  very  well  of  being  drefled  with  the 
hammer,  only  that  the  cemented  ftones  fometimes  fly  off  from 
the  focket,  in  which  the  cement  had  inclofed  them*.  Qur 
£ree-ftone,  on  the  other  hand,  falls  away  by  the  cutters^  and 
crumbles  down  by  the  alternate  influence  of  froil  and  thaw, 
of  rain  and  funfliine,  efpeoially  the  red  kind,  which  is  neareft 
to  Callander :  But  the  gray  freorftone  of  thb  country  ftands 
xerj  well. 

Whether  the  fJumb^puddiMg  ftone  be  the  Scoru  of  a  vulcano, 
in  a  hardened  or  petrified  ftate,  after  having  gathered  a  mul- 
titude of  ftones  in  its  progrefs,  while  the  lava  was  in  fufion, 
^r  whether  it  be  a  petrification  ^  ftones  and  earth  and  gravel, 

i^2  «U 


BMedi,  pokikkig  N.  £.  and  S.  W.;  which  is  nearly  the  dtredlton.of  til  mineiv 
This  mine  yielded  aos.  of  filver  in  CTcry  cwt.  of  ore.  But,  after  trying  a 
Tariety  of  experiments,  and  fearching  with  much  care,  for  Teins,  over  all  that 
ade  of  the  mountain,  the  late  commiffiooen  of  annexed  eftates  dropt  it,  becaufe 
the  only  vein  which  had  been  found,  was  too  fmall  to  defray  the  ezpence. 
There  was  alfo  fome  ore  difcavered,  many  yean  ago,  in  Brea-Ieney,  on  the  farm 
of  Tomafcridan,  and  eifcwhere,  which  is  the  property  of  Mr.  Drummond  of 
9enh,  as  well  as  that  fide  of  Benledi  where  the  late  difcovery  was  made. 

*  The  learned  and  ingenioui  Dr.  Anderfon  of  Cotfield,  faid,  when  this plumd', 
pudding  ftonc  was  (hown  to  him,  that  the  rocks  in  the  illand  of  Lewis  are  of, 
the  fame  compofition.  Swinbum  met  with  it  in  Italy,  near  Benevenio ;  and  tt^ 
^  to  1^  met  with  near  Dntmmond  Cafiie,  and  in  other  placet  of  thU  countzy^ 


J  88  Statj/lical  jfccouni 

all  in  one  ifmft,  occafioned  hj  the  ftAion  t)f  fene  niaenlt  it 
is  difficult  to  deterroioe.  The  rock  aboye  Callander  is  wh^j 
compofed  of  ^hia  o^nieftCed  ftooe.  The  vexaof  it  is  of  no  great 
breadth,  but  extends  in  the  direftion  of  S«  W.  aqd  N.  £^  ts 
the  diftance  of  many  iniles»  through  lakes,  and  rivers,  and 
laouotains,  and  vallejs*  The  pebUeSt  which  are  inelofed  in 
the  cement,  .do  not  feem  to  haye  nndergooe  the  aAion  of  fiie, 
but,  of  fri&ion.  They  are  of  different  colours  ;  bme  white, 
ibme  blue,  and  fome  gray,  and  moftly  of  the  roundnefs  ei  field 
Qr  water  (tones.  The  cement  itfelf  has  the  nsqft  calcined  ap- 
pearance, being  all  of  one  coloar,  and  uniformly  brown.  This 
rock  does  not  ftand  in  columns,  in  the  form  of  bafaltic  pillars. 
The  cutters  are  fometimes  horizontal,  fomefimes  dipping,  and 
fometimes  perpen4icular.  The  ftrata  are  not  in  the  form  of 
prifms  :  They  lie  in  prodigious  flags,  of  different  degrees 
of  thicknefs :  And  the  higheft  mountains,  on  both  fides  of 
this  veini  are  not  compofed  of  fthis  kind  of  ftone« 

The  virtuoii  *,  who  are  connoi^eors  in  foilils,  may  make 
of  thefp  appearances  what  they  will  $  but  to  a  plain  man,  who 

is 

*  It  is  ftrtnge  whit  tvhims,  under  \ht  pUufible  name  of  TaKoaixt,  will 
enter  into  the  hnins  of  PhUo/opkers.  Some  will  choofe  to  be  ridiculous  ntber 
than  think  like  other  men,  or  relinquish  the  di(lin<5lion  of  fingularity.  Some 
will  have  every  thing  to  be  the  eflTeA  of  water ;  and  others,  every  tiling  the 
cffe^  of  fire,  as  they  happen  to  have  a  predileAion  for  either  of  theTc  ele- 
ments. 

It  is  to  be  hoped,  the  nest  theory  will  afcribe  every  Uiing  to  the  power  of 
mir,  and  that  we  (hall  arrive  at  common  fenfe  at  laft.  That  great  Daturalift^ 
the  celebrated  Buffom,  could,  by  the  magic  of  his/tibmarinc  curreaUf  make 
continents  and  iflanids  emerge  from  the  deep,  like  fo  many  ducks  popping  up 
their  heads.  Others,  fmce  his  time,  fearing  that  the  world  (hoold  wear  the 
marks  of  old  age,  fend  Vulcan  on  many  a  long  fubterraneous  jeurpey,  that  he 
may  blow  up  his  forge  wherever  gray  hairs  appear  on  the  face  of  tlie  earth,  to 
fin^re  the  hoary  beard  of  nature,  and  to  cover  the  chin  afreflk  with  the  down  of 
youth. 
J     •  What 


if  Gdllandef.  589 

18  not  wtdded  td  il  theory,  it  is  Tery  improbable,  that  thi^ 
rock  is  the  effed  of  fire ;  becaufe  the  pebbles  are  nnburnt, 
and  retain  all  their  ordinal  varieties  of  colour ;  becaofei  if 
the  J.  had  been  picked  up  by  lava  in  its  progrefsi  they  conld  not  ' 
faarre  been  coi^veyed  oyer  fuph  obftnidion?,  as  mountains  an4 
Iftkei  ;  becaufe  there  are  Do  craters  in  any  mountains,  in  thif 
nexgfabonrbood  ^  becaufe  the  ftones  in  the  hills,  on  the  E.  and 
W.,  are  of  a  different  fpecies ;  ^nd  becanfe,  if  the  rock  iiy 
queftton  had  beeii  in  fofifrn,  the  ftream  woold  hare  taken  tho 
diredion  of  the  viUey,  which  it  has  not  done. 

All  that  is  requifite  farther  to  be  mentioned  under  this  s|rticle, 
is,  that  this  Angular  kind  of  cemented  roci^  together  with  tht  Jlatei 
and  the  lime  flone,  tun  in  three  parallel  veinsi  at  the  diftance  of 
a  ftatute  mile  from  each  other,  not  only  acrofs  this  parifli,  but  tor 
a  great  diftance  on  both  fides.  The  ftratum  of  fiare  reaohesfrom 
Lnft  toDtiokeld,  makingits  appearance  above  ground  at  leaft  in 
8  different  places  j  the  lime-ftone,  from  Buchanan  to  the  pa« 
ri9i  of  Comiie,  and  appearing  in  as  many  places  j  and  the 
pliunb*>pndding  rock,  from  Gartmore  to  Crieff,  and  vifible  on 
the  furface  almoft  the  whole  way.  There  feems  to  run  paraL 
lei  to  thefe  on  the  £.,  a  chain  of  free-ftone^  from  Gartur^ 
through  Rujkie^  Ttorry^  and  Drtimvaicb^  to  the  vicinity  of 
(Irieff.  It  is  probable  that  thefe  parallel  lines  of  rpck  may 
extend  much  farther,  and  may  be  taken  notice  of  by  others, 

although 


"Whit  t  pity,  that  thefe  ingeniotts  men  don't  allow ^rr,  eartbt  air  and  watir^ 
to  be  the  inftrumentf  ufcd  by  a  wife  and  great  Artificer,  who  tonus  and  executes 
his  own  plans,  and,  bj  unerring  and  general  laws,  regtilate$  all  the  phenomena 
of  nature.  Former  theorifts  paid  fome  refpedl  to  their  Makxk,  and  to  his 
word.  Thej  endeavoured  to  accommodate  their  waking  dreams  to  the  ftandard 
of  truth.  But  bolder  fpirits  have  now  arifen,  who  ufurp  the  reins  of  the  uni. 
"verfc,  inveqt  the  bafelefs  fabric  of  cobweb  theories,  and  cxptA  to  make  the 
Qeeting  delufioni  of  their  fanCy  pafs  for  (he  eftabliUied  laws  of  nature. 


599  Statifikal  Jct&unt 

dthongh  they  haTc  been  no  fitfther  ttioed  hj  tbe  wxiier  of 
this  iketch. 

In  Soodandi  the  grmnite  abounds  on  the  W« }  and  the  ftnu 
of  date  and  l]me-ftone»  which  are  found  itinning  in  Teios 
dirough  diis  granite,  are  generally  blue,  fimilar  to  the  colonc 
of  the  rockf  which  at  laft  furronnds  them*  nnlefs  they  hare 
been  formed  from  it.  On  the  E.,  the  frce^ftooe  abounds, 
with  its  feams  oi  coal  and  lime-ftone ;  and  the  veins  of  diis 
Uoie-ftone  are  of  a  fandy  gray,  fimilar  to  die  ccdour  of  the 
free*ftone,  with  which  they  are  in  contaft.  Theiie  fieveral 
ftxata  point  weftward  as  they  go  ibuth*. 

Cmfcadi.^  Jn  the  glen  betwixt  Brackland  and  Achialaicfa^ 
tbere  is  a  bridge  on  the  water  of  Kelty,  coofifting  of  %  ftkks, 
covered  with  a  few  branches  of  trees  and  fome  turf^  which  is 
abundantly  romantic  and  dangerous.  The  fticka  are  laid 
acrob  the  chafm,  with  their  ends  reftiag  on  the  rocks,  whfeh 
progeft  on  oppofite  fid'es,  about  50  feet  high,  above  a  deep  pool : 
On  the  one  hand,  the  white  cafcade  precipitates  itfelf,  firom  a 
height  above  the  bridge,  with  a  tremendnons  noiCe,  oocafioned 
l>y  the  coofliA  of  the  rocks,  the  narrownefs  of  die  ptflage,  and 
the  lofty  column  of  water,  whofe  fpray  often  wets  the  clqthes 
of  paffengers.  On  the  other  hand,  the  winding  glen,  which 
deepens  as  it  defcends,  the  glpomioels  of  the  hanging  rocks,  of 
file  ihading  trees,  and  black  pools,  fljrikes  with  terror  and  vrith 
awe.  Yet  the  people  of  the  adjacent  farms,  from  the  mere 
force  of  habit,  pa(s  and  repafs  with  very  litde  concern ;  al- 
though 


^  Perhaps  thefe,  and  other  chains  of  rocks,  are  tho  hotui  and  JUuws  of  this 
f  lobe,  which  is  not  only  indebted  to  the  miaiftring  powers  of  attra^oo,  co- 
hefion  and  gravity,  that  regulate  its  motions,  and  keep  the  lower  materials  to« 
fether,  bat  is  firmly  girt  about  by  mighty  bvids  \  for  all  the  principal  moiuu 
taiai  of  the  world  run  in  chains. 


^f  Callander.  591 

fhdQgh  tfaeTery  aA  of  looking  down,  when  there  is  a  flood  ia 
the  trater^muf^  fill  the  head  of  a  ft  ranger  with  a  fwimming  gid« 
dinefs,  owing  to  the  altitude  of  his  fitnation,  the  deafening 
roar  of  the  torrent,  the  gloomy  horror  of  the  glen,  and  tha 
whirling  of  the  pool  below,  into  which  the  cafcade  falls,  roU 
lingy  toiBng,  thundering  down. 

^e«r. — ^There  is  a  large  cove  in  a  mountain,  on  the  oonfinet 
•f  the  parilhes  of  Callander  and  Kilmadock,  where  lawleis  peo- 
pie  ufed  to  hide  themfelyes,  after  committing  depredations  on 
the  adjacent  country.  The  mountain  itfelf  is  called  Vab  Vitm 
i.  e.  The  Great  Ceve  $  but  the  defcription  of  it  is  left  to  the 
iccount  of  Kilmadock  pariflu 

Climate  and  Zongevitj^^^^^The  air  is  (alnbrious  in  a  yerf 
^E^  degree.  There  are  no  local  diftempers ;  and  people  live 
to  a  Tery  great  age.  A  wonoan  died  lately,  who  was  faid  t» 
have  been  lOx  years  of  age.  A  man  is  ftill  alive^  who  is  99, 
and  tolerably  vigorous.  A  few  years  ago,  he  was  able  to  earn 
his  bread,  by  driving  a  horfe  and  cart,  and  carrying  lime  Co  tho 
farmers  in  the  neighbourhood.  Several  married  people  have^ 
of  late,  lived  together  near  60  years.  Some  of  thefe  are  ftill 
alive. 

Po^M&ifioff-— The  number  of  inhabitants  in  the  diftrent 
farms,  was  greater  about  half  a  century  iigo  than  it  is  now; 
yet  the  general  population  of  the  parifli  is  daily  mcreafing» 
•wing  to  the  enlargement  of  particular  villages  f. 


t  The  following  circumftances,  which,  in  a  gretter  or  le(s  degree,  regulate 
Ihe  policy  of  all  the  proprietort  of  land  in  Scotland,  ferre  to  explain  the  reafon 
•f  thii  change  in  the  mede  of  population.    During  the  preTalence  of  the  feudal 

fyftcmt 


^gi  Siatlftical  Jccoufii 

PoFULATioN  Table  of  the  Parish  of  CALLAm>Ejt» 

•fhc  nnrobcr  of  fouls,  at  prefent,  (179 ' )»  ***  ^^  ptriflif  i«  abtftit        -        «oo 
iht  Tillage  of  Callaixif  r  contains  near  -  -  -  -    •  toco 

Of  tfaefe,  tliere  are  io  Kilmabog  •  •  •  .  •     S50 

And,  io  the  country,  about  •  •  *  -  -  750 

The  numbed  of  males  is     '      •  •  -  •  -  -     1000 

■  females  -...--      noo 

Aces. 


fyftem,  wbeferer  it  took  place,  the  barons  valued  themfelTcs,  and  were  Yihsed 
by  the  ftate,  not  by  their  rental,  but  by  the  number  of  their  followm.  Thid 
•bjeA,  therefore,  of  ^rery  great  mail,  in  thofe  times,  was  10  hare  his  eftate 
crowded  with  inhabitants ;  and  all  his  &rms  were  fpUt  d»wa  into  many  divifioos 
and  fubdivifion^  But,  upon  the  decline  of  this  fyftem,  the  farms  were  gtoeraily 
given  to  one  of  the  moft  Wealthy  of  the  former  teoanti,  and  all  the  reft  conpeU 
led  to  Ihift  for  themftlves,  or  to  become  cottagers. 

While  the  farms  in  the  Highlands  contimicd  in  ti&age,  thefo  lapierMr  fivm* 
«n  ftood  in  oeed  of  the  cottagers  to  cultivate  the  ground  a*  ferraats  aad  labyor* 
trs ;  and  they  were  allowed  a  fmall  pendicle  and  fome  cattle,  belides  a  Uttk 
money,  in  name  of  wages.  But  when  flieep  began  to  be  introduced,  thefe  ixnail 
poflciTors  Were  fwept  entirely  away,  and  all  the  bufinefs  of  the  htm  was  ma- 
naged  by  a  Oiepherd  or  two,  and  Ihrcc  or  ftmr  dogs.  What  remedy  had  the 
poor  then  ?  None  forcly,  bat  either  to  emigrate,  or  Co  crowd  into  villagea^  or  ttf 
beg.  Thofe  who  had  money  to  pay  their  pcflage,  left  their  native  coontry, 
and  carried  away  their  riches ;  fome,  who  had  no  money,  bartered  their  fer- 
vices,  for  a  number  of  years,  to  obtain  a  paflage ;  and  others,  of  le(s  fpint,  the 
dregs  of  the  people,  in  this  predicament,  have  remained  at  home,  and  have 
fiwght  an'afylum  in  villages* 

This  is  no  ideal  pidure  of  the  times.  That  it  is  more  or  leis  the  cafe,  ia 
many  parts  of  this  kingdom,  at!<t  that  it  is  daily  increafiug,  is  undeniable.  But 
?a  this  part  of  the  country,  we  feel  not  the  full  extent  of  the  calamity.  The 
farms,  in  this  parilh,  are  let  at  a  moderate  rent ;  and  the  pra^ice,  of  engrofiing 
ftiany  into  one,  has  not  hitherto,  owing  to  the  good  fenfe  of  the  proprieton, 
taken  place ;  although  it  has  come  very  near  our  doors.  Our  grals  £irms  m 
the  mountainous  part  of  the  diftri^,  are  thinly  inhabited,  but  not  depopulated, 
as  is  the  cafe  in  the  foutb  and  weft  of  Scotland. 

Thefe  caufes  have,  in  a  greater  or  lefs  degree,  operated  in  all  the  graGT 

hnds 

<  )b  this  number  the  fettlement  of  invalids  is  included. 

4 


of  Callander.  593 


Aois. 

Apprentices, 

-        -        la 

Under  zo  years  of  age,        * 

614 

Hoofefaold  fervants, 

-        -       4« 

From  10  to  ao, 

3((t 

I^abouring  ditto, 

160 

90a 

Students, 

6 

501070,       -       -       - 

%4% 

Merchants^ 

.    9 

7« 

Shoemakers, 

14 

Employments. 

Bak^s, 

% 

"Weavers,        -        -        -        - 

ao 

Tailors, 

%• 

Smiths,  .      -        -         -         - 

8 

Clergyman, 

-     1 

Mafons,       .       -        .         - 

4 

Writer, 

-  '     -        1 

Hoa£e  carpenters  «and  plough 

Surgeon, 

-         -         X 

Wright^       -         -         - 

10 

Schoolmaftcn, 

3 

Vol.  XI. 

4F 

V      COUNT&Y 

lan^  in  Scotland.  Bat  where  the  peoi^e  were  moft  crowded,  and  the  lan4lord 
had  leaft  money,  there  depopulation  has  made  the  widtft  ftrides;  and  ^e  hu- 
man race  has  heea  fwept  away  as  with  a  peftUence.  In  the  fouth  of  Scotlaud 
there  are  many  towns,  to  which  the  people  could  refort ;  but  in  the  Weft 
Hig;hlaads,  there  are  few  towns  of  any  confequence.  The  people,  therefo*-c, 
in  that  large  traA  of  country,  from  Kintyre  to  RoCa,  who  are  difpoflfeflTcd  of 
their  farms,  have  no  alternative,  but  to  crofs  the  Atlantic,  if  they  have  fpirit 
or  wealth;  or  to  travel  Couthward,  till  they  pafs  the  Grampians,  if  they  be 
poor.  The  villages  of  this  place,  and  other  villages  in  fimilar  iituations^  are 
filled  with  thofe  naked  and  ftarving  crowds  of  people,  who  are  pouring  down 
every  term,  for  fhelter  and  for  bread.  And  what  is  to  be  the  fate  of  villages, 
crowded  by  ftrangers^  #ho  have  neither  moneys  nor  ar/x,  nor  indujlry^  I  leave 
to  others,  who  have  more  political  forefighi,  to  determine. 

One  thing  is  certain,  on  this  point,  that  the  proprietars,  who  eredl  villages 
Wk  %  proper  plan t  in  order  to  keep  their  countrymen  in  the  kingdom,  deferve 
better  of  the  public,  than  thofe  who  fet  them  adrift,  withont  the  leaft  feeling  of 
t'emorfe :  Yet  the  conduA  of  thcfe  humane  gentlemen  ought  to  be  regulated  by 
a  cautious  prudence,  even  in  gratifying  their  feelings  of  companion.  And  a 
hint  may  be  taken  by  the  wife,  from  whatever  quarter  it  comes,  cfpeciaUy  when 
it  is  given  with  Hncerity,  and  has  a  tendency  to  do  good. 

Whenever  the  population  of  any  town  or  village  exceeds  the  induftry  of  th« 
inhabitants,  from  that  moment  the  place  mu(t  decline.  When  their  confump- 
ttOD  is  greater  than  their  earnings,  when  their  wants  are  not  fupplied  by  their 
labonr,  the  ftock  of  the  fociety  muft  decreafe,  and  many  undue  pra^ices  muft 
be  fnbftituied  for  the  honeft  means  of  procuring  fobiiftence.  The  b^y  politie 
maybe  vitiated,  as  well  as  the  natural  body.  If  its  cTpttUnee  is  too  much  io« 
creaftd,  bad  humours  prey  upon  the  cooftitution,  for  want  of  exeroife;  habits 

of 


594  Stati/Ucal  Accmnt 

CoowTtr  tnd  CoicnKXzoir.  dec  Rxugioto  OMirfoat* 

Fordgaer,        -        .       .       .      |        OftheEiUbiiihed  Churdi,    •  s65# 

Bom  abroad  of  Britilh  fubjedti,        4        Seccden,             -             .  to 

Bora  in  other  pariihes,        -         500       £{MicopaUass,       -       ^       -  ao 

Ferfons  in  gentieoicii's  &aiilici,      30        P»piAi»           *           •           *  4> 

ICAlattoes,       .       «       .       •     3  

Total  in  17^1,        •  atoo 

Beturn  to  Dr.  Webfter,  in  1755,           .            -            -            .  175* 

Increafe,           -           -           -           -           •  3S* 

l^spulation  iA  X771  f,           .            -           •           «            •            «  1709 

]^o  011787,           ---*---  1U9 


Villages. — The  proprietors  of  the  villages  of  Callavder 
and  KiLMABOO,  are  extremely  defirmis  to  find  cmplojnient 
for  their  refpeftive  people.  Kilniahog  has  not  increafed  fo 
much  of  late  as  Callander  has  done.  In  the  former,  the  houfes 
are  not  the  property  of  the  pofleiTors  ;  biit  new  honfes^  of  a 
'  better  conftruAion*  are  frequently  built,  and  a  few  aercs  of 
ground  are  given  to  each  family  \  upon  which,  with  their  ow« 
rnduflrjy  they  are  eiiablcd  to  live  with  comfort  and  with  eafe. 

Is 

of  indolence  eradicate  evefy  defire  of  eiertien;  tiie  whole  £raiiio  is  oomipted; 
defpondency  enfues ;  and  mifery,  mingled  with  contempt*  produces  the  direftil 
elTe^  of  defpair.  Many  inftances  might  be  mentioned ;  but  every  perfon  of 
•bfervation  can  quote  abundance  for  htmfelf.  It  is  a  wife  maxim,  therefore,  to 
Sncreafe  the  population  of  villages,  providing  the  people  are  rendered  idm/tritusi 
etherwife,  it  is  the  greateft  curfe  that  can  befal  a  place.  Thriving  villages 
affoitl  a  ready  market  tor  whatever  the  farmer  has  to  fell ;  and,  in  return;  pnv 
vide  him  with  artiticcn  and  labourers,  and  many  other  conveniences^  which  he 
ftands  in  need  of ;  befides,  that  it  is  to  thefe  nurferies  of  the  human  fpecies^ 
properly  conftituted,  we  are  to  look  forward  now,  for  men  to  recruit  our  army 
and  navy  in  the  hour  of  danger,  while  our  hardy  peafantry  are  decreafing 
daily. 

t  We  have  no  dath  to  afcertain,  with  accuracy,  what  the  popolation  was 
S5  years  ago.  None  have  emigrated  in  whole  families;  but  fome  youne  men 
have  gone  to  the  Weft  Indies  and  America  as  furgeons,  clerks  and  teachers  ( 
feveral  artificers  have  been  tempted  to  go  to  Glafgow ;  and  fcrvants  have  ^ooe 
to  the  fouth  and  eaft  country,  by  the  profpedl  of  high  wages; 


y  GaUanaer.  $96 

In  the  latter,  Ae  ground  is  feaed  in  finall  lots^;  wd  the  proprie^ 
tor  neither  wants  the  means,  nor  the  inclination,  to  employ 
the  people.     The  village  of  Callander  is  laid  down  after  a  re-i 
gular  plan,  bnilt  fubftantiallj  with  ftone  and  lime,  and  cover- 
ed with  blue  flates.    A  beaatiful  river  runs  between  the  old 
and  the  new  part  of  the  village^  over  which  there  is  a  large  and 
convenient  bridge,  with  roads  branching  out  in  aU  direftions. 
Aftnpendona  rock  rifeson  the  N.  ft|ick  iuU  of  firs,  and  a  variety 
of  natural  wood,  wherever  there  is  any  foil  between  the  flielves, 
which  affords  protection  to  the  village  from  die  cold.    Over 
this  rock  occafionally  falls  down  a  white  ftream  of  water, 
feveral  hundred  feet  high  ^  all  which  gives  the  place  both  a 
pifiurefque  and  an  elegant  appearance.-^Indnding  the  foldiers 
fettlement,  (which  confifts  of  houfes  built  by  government,  for 
penfioners,  after  the  Peace  of  Paris,  in  the  year  1763),  the 
number  of  families  in  Callander  is  290.     The  mode  of  giving 
'  fens  is  a  rood  ot  ground,  or  one  4th  of  an  acre,  in  firopertj^ 
ppon  paying  7I.  los.  of  a  premium,  and  5s.  of  feu  duty  yearly, 
together  with  an  acre  of  arable  ground,  a  rood  of  meadow  or 
bog  hay,  and  two  cows  grafs,  in  the  common  pafture,  for  renf 
and  the  liberty  of  mofs,  common  thatch  and  ftones,  ^f#« 
Some  time  ago,  no  premium  was  paid ;  but  the  feu  duty  was 
6s.  8d.,  and  the  property  redeemable.     This  village  has  in* 
creafed  greatly  within  thefe  30  years* 

Iq  the  village  of  Kilmahog,  there  are  about  48  familijsSf 
The  inhabitants  have  long  leafes,  which  encourages  them,  with 
the  aflillance  of  the  proprietor,  to  ereft  better  houfes  than 
ibrmerly.  This  village  is  beautifuUy  fituated  on  a  plain  be- 
low the  proprietor's  manfion.  At  its  W.  end,  the  wood  of 
I^ey  forms  an  amphitheatre,  which  covers  the  front  of  the 
^ills  ;  and  the  tumultuous  noife  of  the  cataraft  at  the  Pa/*  of 

4  F  a  Ltuey, 

^  A  fingle  ridge  of  I^  has  nof  been  fold  in  this  parilh,  for  thefe  fevera]  jean 
|tcept  the  (ens  in  the  village  of  Ca)Under,  which  may  be  confiderad  cath^r  as 
I  aielioration  »f  an  eftate  than  a  fae. 


596  Statiftical  Account 

Leney,  where  a  whole  river  tumbles  down  from  precipice  to 
precipice^  over  a  fucceiBoii  of  rocks  for  federal  hundred  yards, 
adds  grandenr  to  the  fceae. 

Cbureh.'^Xyn^  of  the  principal  omameats  of  the  beautifol 
village  of  Callander,  is  a  new  church,  which  was  built  about 
x8  years  ago,  with  a  pavilion  roof,  and.  a  ffure  over  the  pedi- 
ment in  the  front  f  •  It  is  happily  fct  down,  in  the  centre  of 
the  place,  and  at  a  proper  diftance  from  the  road.  The  prin« 
cipai  expence  was  defrayed  by  the  late  comouffioners  of  aa- 
nexed  eflates,  and  the  plan  defigned  by  Mr.  Baxter,  architcd. 
The  manfe  was  built  in  the  year  1773  \  and  is  all  in  good  or- 
der, excex>t  the  weft  gable^  which  the  heritors  are  propofing 
to  repair,  before  it  go  into  fuch  diforder,  as  to  create  a  heavy 
expence.  The  ftipend  is  50I.  in  money*  2  chalders  of  meal, 
and  X  of  bear,  befides  a  glebe  of  9  acres,  including  grafs.  Mr* 
Drummond  «f  Perth  is  patron.  The  prefent  minifter  was 
admitted  in  2768,  is  married,  an4  has  a  numerous  iiTue*. 

Schools, "-^On  one  fide  of  the  fquare  before  the  church,  the 
fchool  is  fituated  ;  where  the  learned  languages,  geography, 
elements  of  aftronomy  and  perfpe&ive,  are  taught  by  one 
mafler;  writing,  accounts,  drawing,  geometry,  book-keeping, 
navigation,  and  the  elements  of  mathematics,  by  another.  The 
terms  are  very  moderate.  About  80  boys,  from  different 
parts  of  Britain,  and  from  abroad,  attend.  There  is  alfo  a 
fociety  fchool  in  the  parifli. 

Ppor.^-^The  poor,  upon  the  public  roll  of  the  pariih,  are 
30.     The  funds  for  aflifting  to  jnaintain  them,  are  the  public 

coUeO- 

*  In  this  fpire  there  is  a  fine  belt,  which  is  heard  at  the  difUnce  of  la  or  14 
miles,  in  a  calm  daj.  It  was  caft  at  Glafgow,  and  purchafed  by  a  volontary 
fubfcription,  raifed  among  the  heritors  and  principal  inhabitants,  chieflj  by  the 
exertions  of  the  incumbent,  whofe  name  Is  infcribed  on  it. 

fMr.  Yamcs  Mkkzics  was  the  laft  Epifcopal  minifter,  and  contboed  t* 
officiate  Ijig  after  the  Revolution.  In  his  time,  the  records  of  the  pariih  we^ 
Uft,  b>Hhij)0fife  taking  fire. 


Qf  Cattander.  597 

eoUedtonsi  aod  the  intereil  of  fome  lent  money,  amonnting  in 
all  to  about  4ol.  yearly.  Thefe  matters  are  managed,  both  before 
and  fioce  the  afleflment  was  given  up,  by  the  kirk*leiBoo,  The 
charity  of  the  inhabitants,  in  general,  and  of  thofe  in  the  yil* 
lage  ef  Callander,  in  particular,  is  embent.  The  heritors 
4id,  fome  years  ago,  adopt  a  plan  for  fupporting  their  own 
poor,  by  an  equal  afleflment  on  the  landlord  and  tenants,  ac« 
cordbg  to  the  valuation  ;  but  the  people  could  not  be  reftrain* 
cd  from  ier ving  beggars,  and  fome  were  refrafiory  in  paying 
fheir  proportion  of  the  afleflment ;  fo  that  the  plan  was  dropt% 

ProprUton  and  Rinis^ — ^The  number  of  heritors  is  9.  Three 
of  them  are  refident*  The  valued  rent  is  3,2781.  zos,  Scotch; 
the  real  rent  is  3000U  Sterling,  at  leaft.  The  rent  paid  for 
one  acre,  or  for  a  few  acres,  efpecially  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
villages  of  Callander  and  Kilmahog,  is  2os*  at  an  average. 
Sot  in  large  £iirms,  and  on  old  leafes,  fome  arable  land  is  rent« 
ed  under  js.  the  acre,  after  allowing  a  proper  deduftion  for 
the  paflure  or  hill  ground*  The  extent  of  the  fiirms  is  frooa 
lal.  looK  to  per  annum. 

Mciri^//.— The  greateft  fair  is  held  on  the  axft  of  Marcl^ 
or  the  zcth  old  ftyle,  which  is  called  TiUwia-^chtJfaig^  or  the 
fefihalofSu  Kejfkig.  There  is  another  great  &ir  on  the  i6th 
of  May,  for  black  cattle,  where  the  drovers  find  excellent  ac« 
commodation  for  themfelves  and  their  cows,  and  are  relieved* 
by  Mr.  Drummond  of  Perth,  from  impofts  and  feveral  incoo* 
veniences,  which  are  met  with  in  other  places,*  bcfides  various 
marks  of  attention  which  he  dire&s  his  friends  to  pay  to 
them.  There  are  3  fmaller  fairs  for  country  bufincls* 

£ef^/.-^The  horfes  are  generally  of  a  middle  fixe,  between 
the  Highland  poneys,  and  the  heavy  draught  horfes  of  the 
liow  Country.  Their  number  is  350.  They  are  fore^footcd, 
full  of  fpirity  and  can  endure  incredible  fatigue. 


j^t  SUtifiical  Jicamnt 

Btack  CaftU.—T\\e  breed  of  black  catde  is,  ifl  general^  !mr 
Itrior  in  (hape  and  pile  to  the  ArgylUihife  or  Iflc  of  Sky  cowa» 
fcot  f«perior  to  thofe,  in  the  low  parts  of  the  north  of  Scot- 
land. Their  number  is  about  2400.  When  properly  §ed^ 
Aey  give  plenty  of  milk,  and  brbg  between  jl.  mnd  6L  a 
Mce,  in  the  mai^ket. 

She0f  amd  6oaf/.— About  so  years  ago,  the  fanneKs  bqru 
to  fto^k  wi|h  flieep  At  that  time,  the  nnmber  of  flieep  was 
tcco;  now  it  is  18,000,  all  of  the  black- fiK^ed  kmd.  They 
•re  generally  fmeared  in  the  beginning  of  winter.  The  lambs 
are  often  attacked,  on  the  approach  of  their  firft  winter^  by  the 
hrmsty^  a  difcafe  which  feems  to  be  of  the  natttce  of  ^tgaJlrU». 
^ats  ^re  not  fo  numerous  as  formerly. 

Wild  ^mairupedi  and  Birdi.^JLt^  deer  come  here  for  food 
•ad  (belter  in  fevere  winters.  Roes  breed  in  our  woods. 
Haves,  rabbits,  foKCs,  wild  eats,  badgers,  otters,  moles,  pole^ 
cats,  wckfles,  and  black  martins,  are  alfo  to  be  found  here. 
Our  domcftic,  migratory,  and  water  fowls,  and  birds  under  the 
denomination  of  game,  are  the  fame  as  in  other  places  of  thi^ 
country,  as  well  as  our  birds  of  prey. 

Fijb. — Salmon  are  found  in  the  Teath,  and  in  the  northern 
branch  thereof,  all  the  way  to  Baluuhidder.  They  are  more 
xare  in  thefouthern  branch,  owing  probably  to  the  large  pikes 
10  Locb  Veunacboir  and  loch  Achray^  which  are  enemies  to 
other  fiOi.  Trouts  abound  in  all  the  lakes  and  dreams  of  this 
pariih  ;  and  pars  in  every  ftream.  WbitUngt^  which  fomc 
fiihermen  fay  are  young  falmon,  and  which  others  reckon  a 
diftindt  fpecies  of  trout,  are  common  in  the  Tttath^  in  July  and 
Auguft.  Char  have  been  difcovered  in  Lochlubnaig;  and, 
ivhen  pickledi  are  found  to  equal  any  fro(n  the  lakes  in  the 

nort^ 


tff  CaUander.  y^ 

«ortb  of  Enf^lahd.  They  live  in  the  bottom  of  deep  waters,  uA 
caahot  enfilj  be  caught,  without  thtfeine  or  net.  The  EngUfli 
char  have  two  rows  of  fpots  upon  their  fides  %  thofe  of  Loch* 
labaaig  only  one.  They  are  alfo  found  in  fome  other  lakes  m 
the  neighbourhood*  PHa  ox  jacks  are  very  numerous  ift 
I«och  Vennachoir  and  Loch  Achray,  in  the  fouthern  branch 
of  theTeath,  and  in  fome  ftagnant  pools  near  Callander.  They 
£row  to  a  large  fize,  and  are  frequently  caught  weighing  from 
IS  lb.  to  iO  Ib«,  of  1 6  dunces,  each«  They  may  be  taken  at 
all  feafoas  with  bait^  for  which  par  are  efteemed  befl' ;  but 
they  are  moft  efteemed  in  June,  July  and  Auguft.  Eils  are 
In  all  the  ftill  waters  where  the  bottom  is  muddy.  Minnows 
are  rather  fcarce,  being  probably  devoured  by  the  larger  £flu 

Piairls*'^\n  the  Teath  are  found  confiderable  quantities  of 
■lolcles,  which  fome  years  ago,  afforded  great  profit  to  thoCs 
"Who  fiflied  them,  by  the  pearls  they  contained,  which  were  fold 
at  high  prices.  The  pearls  were  efteemed  in  proportion  to 
die  glofly  fioenefs  of  their  luftri?,  their  fize,  and  (hape.  Some 
of  tlie  country  people  made  lool.  in  a  feafoo,  by  that  em- 
ployment. This  lucrative  fi(hery  was  foon  ezhaufted ;  and 
it  will  require  a  confiderablc  time  before  it  can  be  refumed 
tvith  profit,  becaufe  none  but  the  old  ihells,  which  are  crook- 
ed in  the  ihape  of  a  new  moon,  produce  pearls  of  any  value. 

Petirl  Fi/ber^.^-Tbtj  are  fiflied  with  a  kind  of  fpear^  con« 
liftiog  of  a  long  fliaft,  and  ihod  at  the  point  with  two  iron 
fpoons,  having  their  mouths  inverted  }  their  handles  are  long 
and  elaftic,  and  joined  at  the  extremity,  which  is  formed  into 
a  focket,  to  receive  the  (haft.  With  this  machine  in  his  hand^ 
hf  way  of  (taff,  the  fifher,  being  often  up  to  the  chin  in  water, 
gropes  with  his  feet  for  the  mufcles,  which  are  fixed  in  the 
tanid  and  land  by  one  end,  prdfes  down  the  iron  fpoons  upon 

their 


6oo  Siatjfiical  Account 

Aeir  point ;  fo  ihat  bj  the  fpring  in  the  handles,  they  opei 
to  receire  the  mufde,  hold  it  faft,  and  pull  it  np  to  the  fiir- 
face  of  the  water.  He  has  a  foueb  dr  bag  of  net  work  hang- 
ing by  his  fide,  to  carrj  the  nofcles  till  he  cone  afliore,  where 
diey  are  opened.  The  operation  is  mncheafier  in  (hallow  water. 

Ttnes, — ^The  oak  is  the  mod  nmnerons  and  die  mofrTala- 
ftUe  of  oar  trees*  Oor  oak  woods  bring,  at  an  average,  about 
l5,oooL,  at  every  cutting,  to  the  different  proprietors,  once 
in  14  or  %s  years.  The  oak  bark  is  generally  fold  to  the 
tanners,  on  the  Frith  of  Forth,  at  from  is.  ad.  to  is.  6d.  per 
ftone.  Our  oak  woods  have  lately  been  peeled  to  the  gronnd, 
and  no  vifible  bad  confcquence  has  followed  that  praftice; 
whereas  formerly,  they  were  only  peeled  to  the  ax  or  place 
where  the  tree  is  cut.  The  alder  aild  the  alh  abound  here. 
We  have  bird  cherry,  willows  of  various  kinds,  and  mountain 
a(h.  The  bark  of  the  two'lail  is  ufed  in  tanning  leather,  a- 
long^  with  oak  bark.  The  bark  of  the  latter  is  a  powerful 
aftringeot,  and  is  faid  not  to  be  much  inferior  to  the  Pgruvtam 
bark.  Our  moft  numerous  and  extenfive  plantations  are  of 
Scotch  fir,  or  pine.  Although  there  are  whole  forefts  of  thi* 
fpecies,  which  grow  naturally  in  the  north  of  Scotland,  yer, 
on  the  fouth  fide  of  the  Tay,  few  or  none  are  to  be  found 
planted  by  the  hand  of  nature.  Larch  thrives  exceedingly  wcll| 
and  grows  much  taller  than  any  other  timber  we  have.  Spruce 
firs,  filver  firs,  New-England  pines,  elms,  benches,  walnuts, 
fweet  chefnuts,  horfe  chefnuts,  white  poplars,  baltam  poplars, 
afpens,  laburnums  and  hollies,  have  been  planted  here,  and  thrive 
well.  The  laurel  (Jaunts  wAilis)  bears  well  the  feverity  of 
the  winters,  and  flowers  every  year.  The  (hrubs  and  under^^ 
wood  of  this  parifh  are  much  the  &me  with  thofe  around  it. 

Grain. — In  this  parifh  two  kinds  of  oats  are  cultivated^ 
early  oats,  which  yield  lefs  meal ;  and  the  late,  or  old  Scotch 

6       oatii 


bf  CaHandtt.  tfoi 

t^ats,  which  generaTlj  yield  a  boll  of  meaS  for  ev^rj  bolt  of 
^tain.  Barley  is  the  moflb  Valuable  crop  rsifed  by  the  farmers 
in  this  diftri£i.  That  which  has  two  rows  in  the  ear  is  tAie 
beft  grain',  and  is  commonly  called  hurley  ;  that  which  confifts 
of  four  rows,  is  more  prolific  in  light  foils,  and  atfbrds  more 
koUs  upon  tfn  acre.-  The  itoffian  barley  i>f*iix  rows,  and  the 
takMilL^n  Sibeiian  b^irley,  have  beeii  tried,  but  have  fallen  into 
dirafe,  on  account  of  the  Cmallnefydf  their  profit,  and  thebad- 
nefa  of  the  ftraw.< 

Cfttn  Or€^t  Sc-^We  ha^  <v^*  kiiids  of  poale ;  the  cfitp 
terly>  and  the  other  late.  Wheat  is  not  much  cidtivated. 
Flax  b  taifed  in  eoofid^fabie  quantities,  and  makas  good  r«« 
turns.*  Potatoes  are  cultivated  to  a  great  extent  ^  and  hava 
Tcry^nmch  fupplamed  the  turnips^  as  a  fallow,  where  bai^ley  and 
grafs  ktds  are  to  be  fown  for  the  fucceeding  crop;  The  grafies 
fown  are  rye-grais,  red,  white,  and  fometimea  yellow  clover; 
tad  narrow  piantane  or  rib  grafs*.* 

jfgtkulturii^'iht  foil  of  this  tountry  is  by  no  meant  rich ; 
Irut  it  is  capable  of  great  improvement,  and  makes  good  re-* 
ttiriii.  The  ftyle  of  the  fartbers  houfe?  is  much  improved 
wkbttt  thefe  ao  years.  In  diia  diftrift  the  farmers  often  plow 
dieir  ground  with  two  horfe's,  which  the  ploughman  drives 
and  manages  with  long  reins.  In  fome  cafes  we  fee  4  horfes 
jreked  in  a  iosg  plough,-  and  a  boy  driving  them ;  and  even 
the  brotfd  plough^  with  4  horfes  ycdced  abreaft,  is  not  entirelj 
exj^oded.  In  ftony  groimd  the  Scotch  plough  ia  preferred  1 
but  in  other  land,  fte  faifmers  generally  ufe  curved  mold 
boards,  fmaU  focks  fixed  upon  an  iron  fole,  and  regulate  the 
draught  entirely  by  tiie  muzzle.  The  harrows  are  common^ 
except  that  in  fome  cafes  they  ufe  large  breakers,  with  teeth 
like  fm^  pbugh-flures,  fixed  above  the  bills,  widi  an.iron  flit- 
Vox..  M*  4  Gr  wedge 


6o^  Stahfticd  Aetount 

wedge  put  in  acrofs,  where  the  land  is  ftiff  and  coaxfe.  TB^^ 
manures  are  of  the  ufual  fort.  No  marl  has  hitherto  been  dif^* 
covered  f  bat  we  ufe  plentj  of  lime. 

MUb^  (/r-— We  have  a  Ib^mitk,  4  maal  mills,  i  for  bnu£' 
iflg  lint  and  rapdiNd^  i  falling  mill  for  woollen  doth,  and  ms 
tfarefliing  miil  for  grain }  and  3  kilns,  with  jii&fr  ^^  ^^  ix^o^ 
floors,  fox'  drying  grain. 

Imfinwmtmis. — One  material  regulaticm,  which  tendeQ» 
greatly  to  the  improvem^ntrof  diis  c6tititry«e  was*  dividing  Ae' 
large  farms  into  as  many  lots  or  divifiona  as-  there  were  te* 
naots,  and  lb:dng  dowia«ev€ry  man  on  his  own  b^  infiead  o# 
having  two  or  three  ploughgates,  all  mis^nff  1  as  fitNcmerly. 
By  this  pradice,  the  floveo  was  lefly  behind^  while  the  indnftrU 
oos  farmer  beautified  his'  lot,r  and  enriched  himfdf.  A  great 
^tent  of  new  ground  has  been  cultivated,  and  rendered  arable^ 
Mr*  Buchanan  of  Cambufmore  has  at  prelent  ridi'  gra&  on 
corns  on  feveral  hundreds  of  acres,  where  heathy  knee  deqp^ 
iifed  to  growb* 

-  n^i£fP/affAN«-ThemoA  obnoxious*  weeds  arethiffles,  (fer^ 
ratula)i  wild  muftard,  dock,  fpurry  (J^gula  arvtnfii)^  bi^^ 
ihop-weed,  oow-parfhip,'  fitches  (vkca  fifithn)^  ^w-thiftle^ 
mugwort,tcoltefoot,or  tuflSlagOi  triticum  repens,avena  fterilis^ 
dftitylis  glomerata.  The  principal  officinal  herb  is  the  W9a 
nrfi^  which  grows  in  great  abundance  on'  the  face  of  the  hill 
above  Stronedragon,.  in  Brea^Len^.  Several  others  are  to 
be  found,  which  are  corbmon  almofl?  every  where  in  Scotland.r 
—This  pariih'  afibrds'  a  good  field  for  the  botant/l.  A  great 
variety  of  Jplaiiinums^'  mniums^  bryums^  hypnums^  licbiHs^ 
jtmger  mmanias^  tremiiku,  agarici^  voletiy  and  other ^ir^*,  are 
to  be  ibundi    No  plant,  except  what  bdongs  to  the  olala 

Cryftoffmia^ 


of  Callander.  •fio^ 

^ryptogqniia^  has  been  difcovered,  but  what  is  defcribei  by 
3(r«  LiOHTFooT  in  his  Flora  Scotica. 

Seed  Time  and  HarveJi^-^JQyxr  feed  time  is  regidated  by  tbf 
4eafon.  Oats  and  peafe  are  generaHj  fown  sdiout  the  begin* 
tiling  of  April,  and  flax*feed  towards  the  latter  end  of  it.  Po- 
'tatoes  are  planted  dbout  the'beginning  of  BjfsiJ ;  'the  barlej^ 
ri^th  or  without  grab  feeds,  about  the  middle  of -Maj;  turnips 
"in  June.  The  flax  is  puUdl  about  Lamnuis,  or  the  middle  of 
Auguft ;  the  barlej  is  reaped  by  the 'beginning  of  September  ; 
tthe  oats  and  late  peafe  about  the  middle,  and  towards  the  enitt 
-oi  that  month.  The  late  potatoes  are  ripe  about  'the  fame 
time ;  jams  a  little  later  j  'but  the  early  potatoes  are  leady 
ill  July*. 

Frices  of  Gram^  Provijiom  and  £ii3o«r.-^The  ^barley  is 
•generally  fold  at  from  i  js.  to  zSs.  per  boll,  Linlithgow  mea« 
iure;  the  oats  from  138.  ^d.to  ifis.;  thefowii  hay  at6d«  and  the 
^g  hay  at  3d.  per  ftone.  Butcher  meat  fells  at  from  3d.  to 
4d.  per  lb.,  according  to  its  quality  and  the  feafon  of  the  year* 
*Lamb  generally  brings  a  higher  price.  A  man  fervant,  who 
as  mafter  of  his  bufine&^is  hired  at  7I.  or  81.  Sterling,  and  a 
laaid  fervant  at  31.  a  year  f«  Day-labourers  receive^is.  a  day. 
The  prices  of  labour,  of  poultry,  of  botcher jneat,  of  butter  and 

4  G  a  o£ 

f  K^Ib  the  oriftnal  account  of  $be  panib  of  Cal]ander,\tfaef((  and  other  ar« 
,ticles  were  ftated  at  greater  length ;  but  jhe  author  being  now  employed  at  the 
dcfire  of  the  BOARD  of  AGRICULTURE,  to  draw  up  a  general  view  of  the 
pitfent  ftate  of  ^he  ftock  and  hulbandry  of  Strathem,  and  the  fouthem  parts-of 
Ferthlhire,  h|Ls  confiderabl;^  jhbridg^  them  here;  as  hif  remarks  00  the  cmi" 
tivatioH  of  tbe^9vadt  tjie  natMre  of  the  graitu^  the  improwmetU  of  the  breed 
of  cattle,  and  the  management  of  woods.  Sic.  will  appear,  with  equal  propriety* 
in  that  poblication ;  and  the  fize  of  :this  paper  wiU  confequently  be  brou^t 
>vrithin  as  moderate  boand&  as  poj^k. 

i-AboBt  so  years  ago,  a  man  fenraal,  of  the  Ume  qualifications,  was  got  for 
4).,  and  a  female  fervant  for  il.  15s.  per  annum;  and,  about  30  years  sgo,  thf 
J9tmtr  got  31^  and  th«  Utter  ooly  14s.  a  year :  Labourers  ^.  a  day. 


£o4  Statffileal  Mcount 

of  cheefcy  and  the  wages  of  feryants,  are  tripled,  ui  tbis  eoa^ 
try,  within  thefie  40  years:  partly  owing  to  the  iniproVe4 
ftate  of  the  country,  and  partly  to  the  iniiuz  of  money  from 
the  Bail  Indies*  This  rife  in  the  articles  of  living  does  not 
affeA  the  landed  intereft,  becaufe  their  rents  rife  in  propor- 
tion ;  neither  does  \%  m^terigUy  affed  kbonrers,  manafafturers^ 
or  farmers,  becaufe  the  prices  of  their  labour^  and  of  their 
commodities,  rife  in  the  fame  degree ;  but  to  individuals,  or  t^ 
clafles  oi  men  who  live  upon  ftated  annuities,  fuch  as  theminir 
ftcrs  of  t6b  EftablUhed  Church,  thefe  are  ferious  matters.  The 
fame  domeftic  expence,  which  ihtj  could  eafily  have  fi^portcd 
about  40  years  ago,  upon  an  income  of  joh,  cannot,  at  this 
dayi  be  fupported  upon  thrice  that  income.  They  muft  there« 
fore  fall  back  d^ily  in  the  fcale  of  fociety  :  And  there  is  oc^ 
remedy,  unlefs  the  Court  of  Teinds  are  pleafed  to  adopt  an^ 
other  mode  of  procedure,  by  opening  decreets, 'ilF'flior^r  inters 
vals,  or  the  Legiflature  to  interfere,  to  lefeue  tbetn  from  pc^f 
nury,  which  always  begets  contempt. 

Manu/aSures^  &c — There  are  no  fervices  exafied  from  the 
farmers  in  any  part  of  this  pariih.  There  are  no  manu&c* 
lures  upon  eztenfive  plans,  or  carried  on  by  companies,  upon 
a  joint  ftock.  Woollen  and  lin^  yam  is  mvch  fpua  by  the 
poor,  for  fale.  The  carpet  manufadurers  in  Stirling  bi^  up 
the  woollen^  and  the  Glafgow  manufa&urers  thj:  linen  yam* 
The  fervants,  and  die  children  of  formers  are  all  employed, 
(when  they  have  no  labour  in  the  fields),  in  fpinning  thefe 
Jdnds  of  yarn,  partly  for  fale,  and  partly  for  their  own  ufe. 
All  that  i$  wanted,  to  eftablifli  inanufa&ures  here,  is  a  proper 
plan,  and  fome  perfon  or  company  of  credit  to  be  undertakefs. 
Wool  ha$  become  the  ftaple  of  this  country  of  late  years.  We 
have  alfo  fine  fireams  to  drive  machinery,  of  any  weight 
neceffary  in  the  linen  of  cotton  bufinefis,  and  plenty  of  proper 

fields^ 


qf  Callandcn  €05 

Mds^  and  the  folteft  water  for  bleaching  cloth.  And  if  9 
perfon  of  knowledge^  in  any  of  thefe  branches,  and  otherwife 
of  a  p)od  charader,  were  to  offer  his  fervice^^  it  is  well 
jcQOWD,  that  Mr.  brununond  of  Perth  wouldmeet  his  wiihes  ; 
b/  affording  him  every  acconunodation,  ^d  bj  ai&fting  hiq^i 
otherwife,  on  reafonable  tern^p 

Po/kTf.— The  gentlemen  are  verj  attentive  to  the  police  of 
the  country,  as  far  as  the  prefent  influence  or  interpretation 
of  the  law  renders  their  endeavours  fuccefsful.  Yet  there  are 
many  petty  crimes  which  ipuft  finally  pafs  with  impunity, 
'which  are  very  hurtful  to  fociety,  becaufe  they  do  not  incur 
,the  higher  penalti^  of  the  law  ;  crimes,  hurtful  to  fociety  and 
contagious  in  a  high  degree,  which  fcarcelycome  within  the  de- 
fcription  of  a  breach  of  the  peace,  which  neither  the  public  pro- 
lecutor  for  the  crown,  nor  any  private  profecutor  have  any  con^ 
cem  with ;  and  if  a  magiftrate  ihall  be  fo  publip  fpirited,  as,  out 
jof  regard  to  the  morals  of  the  people,  to  commit  perfons  guilty 
of  thefe  crimes,  he  generally  gets  the  conftables  to  payout  of  his 
ownpocketyfor  bis  pains ;  and  thefe  corrupter!  of  fociety  return, 
in  a  few  days,  with  a  braxen  countenance,  more  hardened  in 
vice,  and  more  intent  upon  corrupting  others,  than  thjcy  were 
before  •• 

Inn  and  jik-Houfes.'^Thtrt  is  an  inn  at  the  village  of  Cal- 
lander, which  is  very  well  kept,  and,  to  encourage  the  land- 
lord to  be  careful  to  accommodate  the  public,  M r,  Drununond 

of 


-*  Ifis  Majefty^s  pious  proclamation  for  the  orderlj  behaTionr  of  hii  fubje^s, 
wanted  only  the  interpofition  of  the  Legiflature  to  render  it  effedual.  A  bride^ 
well  is  far  preferable  to  the  (bame  of  the  pillory,  to  thofe  who  cannot  blulh, 
^nd  to  the  terrors  of  a  j^il,  to  thofe  who  have  either  the  ingenuity  to  keep 
within  the  law,  and  elude  its  penalties,  or  who  have  ao^  relnAance  to  be  fnp- 
ported  at  the  cipencc  of  the  pubb'c. 


jidS  ,Statl/Hca{  Account 

of  Perth  {MJ8  the  duty. of  a  pod  chalfe  for  fome  time.  We 
liave  mtny  ale-houfes,  or  rather  dram-houfes.  What  a  pitjv 
that  thefe  finks  of  iniqaitj  Ihould  have  fuch  unbounded  Kbertj> 
where  the  morak  of  the  people  are  corrupted,  their  conftita« 
tion/ruinedy  and  their  fubftaace  fquandered  awaj*1 

Roads  and  Sridges0^^X)uT  roads  are  in  tolerable  order,  cofr- 
lidering  their  number.  Our  fiatute  fervice  is  partly  commnt- 
ed»  and  partly  exa&ed  in  labour,  as  the  gentlemen  fee  the  pro- 
'bability  of  its  turning  out  to  the  beft  account.  Several  bridges 
have  been  lately  ereded,  and  are  pyroperly  taken  care  of.  We 
owe  much  of  our  convenience  in  this  refped  to  the  funds  of 
the  annexed  cftates,  and  to  the  public  Tpint  of  the  country  a^ 
large. 

Antifpntiei*'-^The  charter  of  the  family  of  Leney,  which^ 
at  prefent,  is  reprefented  by  Mr  Hamilton  of  Bardowie,  is 
very  fingular*  Ai^kxakder  I1«,  on  the  25th  of  Oftober,  m 
the  23d  year  of  his  reign,  which  correfponds  to  the  xiJ7  year 
of  the  Chrifttan  aera,  confirmed  by  a  writlen  charter,  jiUtutd  de 
Lani  ei  Margarita  de  {affi,  the  pofleflion  of  this  eftate,  which 
had  been  formerly  granted  by  king  Calenus  to  GiUefpic 
Moir  dt  Lani,  tnUiti^  to  be  held,  virtute  GiadH  parvi.  This 
charter  is  not  only  a  curiofity  for  its  anti^uityi  but  it  appears 

£roiA 


•  Tbe  licences  to  retail  fpirits  are  too  ealHy  Gbtaine(|.  While  many  tsoes* 
which  fall  ytry  heavy  on  the  poor  and  uuluftriout,  are  neceflary  for  the  fapjxKt 
4A  th«  pnblic  expence,  thefe  tippling  houfes,  in  a  great  meafure,  go  fcmtjm^ 
There  is  .perhaps  as  much  duty  laid  on  the  tnalt,  and  on  diftillery,  as  th«y  eta 
bear  and  be  produdive ;  but  the  fetailers  of  fpirits,  in  l9w  houfes^  are  very 
tenderly  dealt  with.  A  guinea  m  twOt  upon  every  licence  to  fell  ipirits  of  any 
itiod,  and  in  any  quantity,  and  upon  any  road,  would  bring  a  prodigious  reve- 
nue to  government,  and  amend  the  morals  of  the  people.  And  it  is  better  is 
all  cafes  to  prevent,  than  to  punifli  crimes.  Dramming  is  not  only  a  luxury 
but  a  pernicious  luxury.  Many  of  our  luxuriH  have  a  tendency  to  make  us 
more  indnftrious;  but  when  will  the  feller  or  drinker  of  draois  be  indu|^riovs  \ 


e/"  Callander^  iof 

from  it,  that  the  feudal  fyftem  then  prevailed  in  Scotlaod;  be« 
caa&  the  charter,  takiog  notice  of  a  former  refignation,  (ajs, 
that  it  was  made  per  fuftim  et  hacuium^  which  are  the  fjm- 
bols  ufed  in  refignations  at  the  prefent  time  **. — ^There  is  ii» 
the  farm  of  jicHnlaicbf  a  circolar  rampart^  on  the  fnmmit  of 
A  rifing  ground,  ahd  in  the  vicinity  of  a  deep  chafm  fof  med  by 
the  burn  of  Kelty  f«  This  fortification  is  furrounded  only  bj 
a  fingk  ditch  and  mound  of  earth,  and  appears  ta  have  been  a 
place  of  no  great  fecurity  f  were  it  not,  that  the  adjacent 
gtoond  dopes  from  it  in  every  direfifion,  and  that  the  wild  gitn 
behind  it,  where  the  water  can  fcarcely  be  feen,  for  proje&ing 
focks  and  hanging  trees,  afforded,  at  all  times,  a  near  and  fafe 
letreat^^ 

There  is  ailother  fortificadoa,  of  the  fame  nature,  oil  th& 
top  of  the  ]6$m  above  Bochaftle ;  except  that  it  is  of  lefs  ez-* 

tent» 


^This  cbarter  alio  proves,  tEat  tfic  datt  of  royal  chartert  wa$  not,  in  thofe 

agei^  afccrtaiDed  by  iht  year  of  God,  but  by  the  year  of  the  king's  reign ; 

which  was  the  pradice  of  the  Jewi,  who  referred  toa  particular  yearof  the  king'f 

reign,  as  well  as  of  the  Romans,  who  referred  to  the  confulihip  of  particular 

perfons  ;•  and  likewifie,  that  more  ancient  grants  were,  in  the  fiinplicity  of  thefis 

•get,  proved  by  the  pofleiBon  of  particular  relics ;  fuch  as  the  giadius  parvus, 

which  is  of  filver,  haviag  fome  hieroglyphic  figures,  probably  defcriptive  of  tha 

piowels  of  Gillefpic  Moir,  oo  one  fide,  and  his  name,  in  Gothic  charaden^  on 

the  other. 

f  Kelty  is  a  name  given  to  rapid  waters,  in  many  parts  of  the  worlds  and  ifl 

different  languages. 

N.  B.  This  name  fignifies  the  loft  er  dg/lruOion  which  thcfe  torrents,  rifing 
io  fuddenly,  bring  on  ever;  creature,  and  every  thing,  in  their  way.  Smooth 
waters  are  never  called' Kelty.  There  is  a  Kelty  in  Strathem,  and  another  in 
Abyffiaia. 

I  If  this  fortification  be  of  IkadQi  conftrudHon,  theft  rovera  muft  have  ufed 
it  for  fear  of  the  Caledonians,  whofe  country  they  had  invaded :  for  they  feldom 
foffeted  intruders  to  poflefs  their  lands  quietly,  or  to  leave  them  with  impunity*. 
£ut  if  it  was  ufed  by  the  natives,  it  was  probably  intended,  not  oqly  to  fecure 
their  perlbns  from  infult,  but  their  cattle  from  depredation;  which  pur^a  it 
was  well  calculated^  from  its  extent,  to  ferve. 


So9  StatiJIicai  Account 

tent,  and  has  three  tire  of  ditches  and  sioands,  which  feemtfa 
have  heen  erefied  with  more  care,  becaofe  the  earth  of  eaeh 
moQod  is  ftrengthened  and  fecured  by  ftones,  from  faffing  back 
into  the  ditches.  This  fituation  is  chofen  with  confum- 
mate  art,  is  incondmoded  b/  no  elevated  ground,  commands 
tn  extenfive  profpeft,  and,  hi  cafe  of  a  blockade,  has  a  refer- 
voir,  in  the  middle,  to  retain  water  from  the  clouds  *• 

There  are  the  remains  of  an  old  caftle  at  the  manfe  of  Callaao 
der,  which  was  built  or  repaired  in  i  J96,  bj  LivingHon^  Earf 
of  Linlithgow*  It  was  a  fquare  tower  of  coniiderable  height ; 
In  the  confiruQion  of  which,  flrength  rather  than  elegaooe 
was  fludied.  There  is  a  traA  of  fine  land  in  this  neighbour- 
hood,  called  the  Barony  of  CaUandir^  which  was  once  die  pro« 
pertj  of  the  Callamo£RS  ^  CaUanier^  and  continued  for 

many 

«  Thii  ftnmf  hold  fiM*f  to  have  been  eroded,  not  odljr  for  the  protcdioB  of 
the  inhtbiunts,  when  they  were  t^lttally  invaded,  but  as  a  watch  tower,  to' 
five  the  alarm  in  the  profpedt  of  danger.  It  commands  the  moil  exteofive 
■View  towards  the  £.  and  »  well  feen  from  DunMuif r,  near  Stirling,  which  place, 
from  its  name,  Ditm-ma*itt  (contracted  for  DarA-nM-rMr,  the  hUi  0/  the 
good  pro/^A),  ind,  from  its  fitmtion,  may  have  been  another  poA  for  alarming 
the  people  ;  and  Dunmait  may  have  got  the  flgnal  of  danger  irom  fome  other 
place  farther  C  Then  are,  in  many  vmllejn,  which  ftretcfa  into  the  Grampians, 
sot  only  from  the  thampaign  conntry  in  the  E.  of  Scotiaod,  from  wfaicfa  quarter 
an  attack  was,  for  feveral^reafeos,  gtnendiy  made,  bnt  in  aU  other  ^reSkm, 
the  velliges  of  watch  towers,  of  rude  workmanlhip,  to  be  found.  They  wen 
fituated  not  far'  from  the  dwrellings*  of  fom^  of  the  inhabitants,  on  the  face  of 
the  hills,  and  placed  ligaag  from  thcf  one  dde  of  a  valley  to  the  other,  and 
runnii\g  generally  far  into  the  country.  By  means  of  fire  lighted  on  theie 
towers,  the  whole  inhabitants  could  be  alarmed,  to  a  great  dtftanc^  in  a  few 
minutes. 

In  Breadalbane,  there  axe  three  of  thefe,  one  at  each  end  of  Loch-T^y,  on 
the  S.  fide,  and  one  about  the  middle,  on  the  N.;  by  means  of  whlchr  all  the 
people  in  that  traA  of  country,  from  Benmore  to  Weem,  confifting  of  near  40' 
miles,  could  be  put  on  their  guard,  on  any  fudden  emergency ;  and  it  is  likely 
that  other  JGniUr  pofts  coaKauoicated  with  thefe|  down  to  Dnokeld,  or  far« 
ther. 


'tfCaliandeK  to^ 

ftany  ages  in  that  family.  It  was  forfeited  in  the  reign  of 
James  I.  or  11.,  and  given  to  the  Livingftons,  who  were  after- 
wards created  earls,  by  that  title.  They  either  enlarged  or 
Rebuilt  the  calUe*^  and  infcribed  the  name  of  their  owa  fa-^ 
soily,  and  the  year,  on  the  door-head.  This  land  was  fold  to 
the  family  of  P£RTH|  about  the  year  xfijo,  in  whofe  poffef- 
JBon  it  now  remains. 

There  is>  in  the  plain  of  Bochaftle,  an  artificial  bankf,  ill- 
'^  ftraight  line,  of  the  length  of  60  paces.  It  has  the  appear- 
ance of  a  tire  or  two  of  feats,  on  the  W.  fide,  for  the  accom- 
•^odatibn  of  fpe£latbrs,  with  butts  at  each  end.  There  is  a 
furious  conical  hill  or  mount,  at  O^llander,  where  the  old 
thurch  ftobd  X*    This  mount,  which  feems  to  be  artificial,  is 

V0L.XJ.  4H  called 


*  This  caftle  w^  moftly  taken  down  in  1737,  to  build  a  oriU  And  a  4ani 
lUke ;  and  the  reaainder  was  fo  much  ondermiDcd  bf  thefe  mntilarions,  that  it 
fell  down  about  17  years  agOb  The  prefent  manfe  was  built  out  df  thefe  ruins. 
The  criQisnt  was  fo  ftrong,  that  the  (tones  would  break  .before  the  fragments 
toold  be  tot-n  afunder.  Oyfler  Oiells  were  found  in  abundance,'  buried  about 
tbe  fi^t  of  the  caftle,  which  Ihbws  that  no  quarry  lime  was  then  difcoirered,  at 
leaft  in.  this  part  of  the  kingdom.  From  this  earlj  pra^ice  of  ufing  calcined 
Ihells  fot  mortar,  the  burnt  lime-ftone  is  Aill  called y&^///.  And  it  is  probable, 
j^at  the  (Irong  band  which  took  place,  ind  is  To  much  admired  in  old  buildings^ 
is  not  owing  to  any  intrinfic  or  fuperior  quality  in  the  lime  of  thefe  times ;  but 
to  the  precaution  of  pouring,  into  ctrery  courfe  of  the  wall,  liquid  mOrtar,  of 
newjlacked  lime,  while  tlie  building  was  going  on.  The  calcined  (bells  were 
tarefuUj  kept  from  rain  or  moifture,  under  a  proper  coTer,  and  taken  in  fmall 
quantities  at  a  time^  which  were  fucceffively  Hacked  and  fanded  for  immediate 
tt(e. 

^  Somfe  perfpns  allege,  that  this  bank,  and  a  (imilar  one  on  the  oppofite  fd% 
tof  the  Dun,  and  almoft  at  equal  diftances  from  it,  were  lines  of  approach  to  re* 
ilnce  the  fort ;  but  the  country  had  no  weapon  of  offence,  at  that  period,  that 
coiiUbmake  any  execution  s^t  fo  great  diftance. 

%  This  beautiful  hlU  has  acquired  additional  ccicbrit|r,  by  being  chtfen  ai 

the 


6ia  Statj/lical  AccfmiA 

called  ToM-MA^CHESsAiG,  the  Hill  of  St.  Kessaig  \  mig 
According  to  tradition,  was  ufed  fot  butts,  where  the  people, 
vpon  Sabbath  evenings,  exercifed  themfelves  with  their  bow^ 
find  arrows,  according  to  an  ancient  Scotch  law  for  that  pur- 
pofe  *•  There  is  another  hitl»  larger  than  T^om-ma-eheffatg^  at 
lAttU  Leruy^  where  Norie^s  Chapel  flood,  which  is  ftill  ufed 
as  a  cemetery  by  thofe  of  the  name  of  Buchanan  f  • 

Near  the  village  of  Callander,  there  is  a  bank,  inclofing  a- 
Ikout  4  acres  of  ground,  the  river  forming  one  fide,  which  is 
Oilled  the  Roman  Camp  ;  but  notwithftanding  the  name  which 
this  place  has  obtained,  (only  indeed  of  late),  there  is  notlang 
about  it  which  refembles  fucli  a  work  of  the  Romans.  The 
Komaa  camps  were  drawn  with  firaight  lines  and  right  angles : 

There 

the  fite  of  a  bonfire,  in  X7S4,  by  the  gentlemen  of  this  country,  and  the  fentntt 
mi  this  part  of  the  cftate  of  Perth,  to  teftify  their  joy  when  the  property  wa» 
nftored  to  that  family,  who  have  Ihown  themfelres,  not  only  fo  worthy  of  hatia; 
got  the  eikate,  but  Ukewift  of  fooa  getting  the  hooourt  of  that  ancient  fiunily 
teftored. 

•  About  many  old  churches  we  fee  the  remains  of  yew  trees,  of  which  the 
bows  were  made.  Out  of  refpedt  to  the  tutelar  faint  of  this  place,  who  certain^ 
ly  would  be  fuppofed  to  witnefs  the  exercife,  the  different  candidates  would  ex- 
ert themfelves  to  the  utmoft,  to  carry  the  pahn  of  vidlory. 

f  Our  fathers  had  an  uncommon  predelidlion  for  building  their  churches, 
and  having  therr  burying  ground  in  places  furrounded  with  waters,  and  often  in« 
acceffible  by  reaibn  of  the  floods.  Yet  we  ought  not  to  judge  raibly  of  their 
toiidu<^  ;  for  mankind,  in  general,  fecm,  at  every  period,  to  hare  reafoned  with 
the  fame  degree  of  accuracy,  and  exerted  the  fame  penetration,  concerning 
their  own  fituation,  independent  of  the  u(e  of  letten.  Iri  the  earlier  ftiges  of 
(bciety,  man  had  a  hoil  of  foes  to  contend  againft ;  and  the  tribes  of  carnivorous 
beafts,  which  might  be  afraid  to  attack  him  when  alive,  would  often,  when  flii. 
muiated  by  the  cravings  of  a  voracious  appetite,  attack  the  manfions  of  the 
dead,  and  diihirb  the  repofe  of  man  even  in  the  lonely  grate^  And  if  mankind 
found  it  neceflsry  to  have  thefe  places  of  fecurity,  to  proteA  their  bones  from 
the  ravages  of  wolves,  boars,  and  other  beafts  of  prey,  they  would  naturallf, 
be  led  to  confecrate  a  place,  for  the  worlhip  of  the  Deitji  near  to  their  bmyin^ 
l^roundt 


ef  Callander.  6ii 

Tb^e  is  neither  the  one  nor  the  other  here ;  no  ditch  or  folTe. 
The  bank  itfelf  has  a  great  deal  of  more  earth,  than  anj  mound 
that  furrounds  any  Roman  camp,  in  this  part  of  the  world ; 
and  t^ierefore  altogether  unneceiTary  for  refifting  any  mode  of 
attack,  which  was  praftifed  at  the  time  the  Romans  paid  their 
vifit  to  this  country*  It  is  a  beautiful  waving  bank,  formed 
by  the  hand  of  nature,  covered  with  a  variety  of  trees«  and 
{brubery,  and  having  a  well  drefled  terrace  on  .the  fummit* 
whofe  fucceflive  curvatures,  whofe  waving  fwells  and  hollo wsg 
put  the  prefent  pafleiTor,  Captain  Fairfoul,  in  mind  of  the  roll- 
ing waves  in  the  Bay  of  Bifcay.  There  are  feveral  fuch  banks 
on  either  fide  of  the  river,  both  above  and  below  that  place ;  al- 
though they  have  not  attrafted  the  notice  of  mankind,  by  being 
covered  with  wood,  nor  winding  in  fuch  beautiful  meanders. 
A  Danifli  cofBn  of  ftone,  confiding  of  6  rude  flags,  4  of  which 
were  oblong,  and  of  the  length  of  a  human  body,  and  a  iquare 
one  at  each  end,  was  lately  found  at  Callander,  in  widening  the 
public  road.  Thefe  ilone  co^ns  are  dilbvered  in  nciany  parts 
of  Scotland  *• 

Eminent  Men.-^The  mod  learned  perfon,  who  is  known  to 
have  belonged  to  this  pariih,  is  Dr.  Francis  Buchakah,  at 
prefent  in  the  Eaft  Indies.  In  claffical  and  medical  knowledge 
he  has  few  equals,  and  is  well  acquainted  with  the  whole  fyf- 
tern  of  nature.  Many  other  young  men,  bred  and  educated 
here,  have  gone  abroad  to  feveral  parts  of  the  world,  and  have 
proved  a  credit  to  their  country* 

Language. — The  language  fpoken  by  perfons  of  rank  and 
of  liberal  education,  is  Engliih^  but  the  language  of  the  lower 

4  H  a  dafiea 

*  Some  of  iSiem  were  got  about  a  mile  W.  from  the  bridge  of  Linlithgow. 
«t  the  fame  time  with  this  one  at  Callander,  bj  people  engaged  in  a  fimiUr 
^ration. 


6is  Statiftical  Acc^mO: 

dafles  ia  Gaelic*  It  wonld  be  almoft  tumecefikrj  to  ik^  eoj 
thingof  thislanguftge  to  thofe  whounderftand  it.  Hicyknow  its 
energy  and  power;  the  cafe  with  which  it  is  componnded; 
the  boldnefs  of  its  figures  ;  its  majeftj,  in  addrei&iig  the 
Deitj ;  and  its  tendemefs  in  ezpreffing  the  fineft  feelings  of 
the  human  heart.  But  its  genius  and  conftitution,  the  ftruo 
«ture  of  its  nouns  and  verbs,  and  the  afBnitj  it  has  to  fome 
other  languages,  are  not  fo  much  attended  to.  Thefe  point 
At  a  verj  remote  aera,  and  would  feem  to  deduce  the  origii^ 
6f  this  language  from  a  rery  high  antiquity^*. 

*  The  etymology  of  eyery  hrm  and  hiU  in  this  connhry  is  Gaelic,  and  it 
jefcriptive  of  their  fituition,  or  of  fome  other  peculiar  quality  :  A  few  of  thcfe 
ihall  only  be  given,  becaufe  difquifitions  of  this  nature  may  appear  tirefome  to 
^ofe  wfio  have  no  knowledge  of  the  language,  wl^e  they  afford  amufiement  and 
information  to  others.  Any  Gaelic  words,  that  occur,  are  fpclled  accordti^  ta 
^e  £ngli(h  orthography,  to  render  them  legible  by  Englifli  readers. 

Leney^  in  Gaelic  Lkn^uib^  i.  t,  fuii  of  wood.'  The  plains  of  leney  wef« 
formerly  covered  with  ftately  alders,  the  ^irts  of  the  hills  with  oaks,  the  front 
and  brow  of  the  hiUs  and  glens  with  birches.  The  alders  and  birches  have 
9ioftly  difappeared ;  the  oak  woods  are  preferved. 

Laoir,  a  boof,  or  rather,  in  the  Scotch  dialed,  a  cluU,  which  fignifics  a  fingle 
koof  of  an  animal  that  has  the  bocfs  cloven.  This,  and  other  places  of  that, 
name,  exactly  referable  that  part  of  the  animal,  being  encompaffed  by  two  ri- 
vulets, the  one  running  in  a  ftretght,  and  the  other  in  a  curve  Uncy  fanxung  a 
tery  acute  angle  at  the  point  where  they  meet» 

KUmabcg,  in  Gaelic  KU-ma-rbug^  i.  e.  tbe  <eU  of  St.  Hog,  or  Cbig,  The 
fellival  of  St-  Chikg,  is  the  26th  day  of  November,  which  is  a  cattle  mariLet  im 
this  country. 

Totn-^cOt  the  btreh  bill. 

Ane^,  m^^ib,  tbe  ford  of  deer,  where  they  pafied  from  the  foreft  oT  Qka* 
finlas  to  the  fereft  of  Olenertney.  ^ 

MdbtUlary,    {ard^bul^rui),  t^tjbcaling,  with  a  beigbt  at  xtiback^ 
X     a     3  3  *         I  * 

Olengyle^  CUattrgoui,  the  forked  glem, 
I      '  %  %         I 

Coil-ebra,  CoH-cbr^,  the  wood  of  nuts.    This  is  the  largetl  haxle  wopd  i* 

this  country,  and  might,  at  a  very  fmall  ezpence,  be  converted  into  an  oak 

wood.    Tbit,  and  moft  other  haile  woods,  are  iaterfperfcd  with  ftiagglSi^ 


BfCalbmdtr.  fii^ 

,  S%e  y^rbs  of  the  Gaelic  language  have  onlj  thrqe  tenfc9» 
Wliich  is  the  fixapleft,  aa4  moil  natural  diyifion  of  time.   Th(t 

perfe^ 


fttks,  and  oak  woods  are  generally  interfperfed  with  hasle ;  which  ihows  that 
both  of  thefe  timbers  delight  in  the  fame  foil  and  expofure.  . 

Ard'tnac-ffiuin,  the  bei^t  for  the  brood  of  fuhjiance^  or  cattle.  The  moft 
of  the  people's  riches  coniifted  in  ca'ttle,  when  this  place  got  its  name. 

Stron-garo-altry,  the  nofe  at  the  rough  or  rapid  brook.  A  bold  promontaix 
projeifls  into  Loch-Catherine,  at  this  place,  and  a  torrent  ruflies  along  its  bafq 
in%o  the  lake. 

Edir-O'leachdacby  between  tbj  two  brocks  of  flags.  This  farm  is  bounded 
on  both  fides  by  rivulets,  which  run  moftly  upon  fmooth  rock,  or  large  flags. 

Le-  tir,  the  half  of  the  land.  This  is  a  very  common  name  in  the  High« 
^nds,  and  is  applicable  to  places  on  a  gentle  declivity,  bounded  above  bj 
a  ridge,  which  ru^s  acrofs  the  head  of  the  farm.  From  this  ridge  there  is 
a  gradual  fiope  to  the  boundary  below,  which  is  generally  ftagnant  or 
running  water.  There  is  no  doubt  of  tir  aad  terra  bei^g  originally  the  fame 
word ;  but  which  of  lucfe;  is  the  original,  may  not  perhaps  be  fo  univcrfally  al- 
lowed. To  prevent  the  ridicule  of  the  balftbhiking  part  of  mankind,  wh« 
judge  from  prejudices,  and  without  due  enquiry,  is  at  all  times  a  defirable  ob-^ 
j'e^ ;  but  whe^  truth  fpeaks,  her  voice  mult  finally  prevail.  This  fubjed^  will 
occur  afterwards ;  at  prefent  let  it  fuffice  to  obferve,  that  the  ancient  Scythians, 
who  fpoke  the  Celtic  language,  of  which  the  paelic  is  a  diale<£l,  were  a  great 
and  warlike'people,  long  before  Rome  was  built,  or  its  founder  bom ;  and  that 
this  dialed  of  the  Celtic  has,  in  its  conftitution,  a  much  nearer  ajiinity  to  Ian. 
guages,  which  are  acknowledged  to  be  more  ancient  than  Greek  or  Latin,  thas, 
It  has  either  to  thefe,  or  to  any  other  language  of  a  modem  date.  Its  conftruc. 
tioo,  its  genius,  and  its  power,  bear  the  evident  marks  of  a  very  remote  ori- 
gin. 

Brea-tt'Cboil^  above  tbe  wood.  This  wood,  which  is  alfo  called  Trofachs^ 
i.  r.  rougbnefsf  is  of  a  particular  kind,  and  exhibits  a  molt  romantic  fcoae, 
which  is  dcfcribed  abore. 

Ard-ken-knockan^  the  height  at  the  end  of  tbe  bills. 

Clen-fin-glofs,  the  fair  green  glen  ;  a  fore  ft  belonging  to  the  Earl  erf"  Moray^ 
1     a    3  a        j       I 

remarkable  for  one  of  the  largeft  tra^s  of  green  palture  to  be  met  with  in  the 
Grampians.  It  is  called  Fin-glafs^  becaufe  long  graf*;,  which  is  green  in  fummer^ 
acquires  a  bleached  and  white  appearance  by  the  winter  ftorm«. 

Acb-na-hard^  the  fcld  of  the  height.    Ach  is  always  applied  to  a  borizoptal 


<{  1 4  Statifllcal  Account 

perfeft  tcnfc  feems  to  be  the  root  of  the  verb  ;  tbe  perfcft 
^4  future  are  regular,  or  found  in  the  verb  itfelf ;  the  pre« 

fent 

field  of  tomt  e^ent,  »iid  if  a  ftrj  commoii  nime  given  to  pltces  in  tbe  High- 
lands. 

Dtm-fraggOMf  the  m9mnt  of  the  rock.  Jium  literally  fignifies  a  heap,  and 
is  applied  indifcriminately  to  a  heap  of  earth,  or  of  houfes,  collected  together. 
Hence  the  names  pf  our  moft  ancient  towns ;  fuch  as  J>MM'^arton,  Dmn-dee^ 
Dun-tdin,  or  the  dun  on  ^cfaee  of  a  bill,  {Edinkvrgb,  Ice)  This  is  the  only 
name  of  that  city  in  the  ancient  language  of  Sco|iand. 

Offerans^  in  Gaelic,  Oir-royi^  t^e  Jide  of  the  point.  This  name  is  generally 
^ven  to  places  at  the  fide  of  a  river,  where  it  either  runs  into  the  head  <^a 
lake,  or  falls  into  another  river ;  and  the  inclofed  land  between  the  two  riven 
is  called  Jiofs,  which  is  a  very  coaunon  word.  Rof94hire  is  fo  called  frooi 
its  bein|r  bounded  by  the  two  rivers,  which  fall  into  the  Moray  FHth,  and  that 
pf  Dornoch.  Fife  was  anciently  called  Rofs  for  a  fimilar  T^lfon,  m  well  a« 
Kinrofj,  Rojlyn^  Jtofdui^  and  the  Roft  at  Lochlomin,  &€.  ftu:, 

JUn-xick^  in  Gaelic  La^^  contraded  for  Lav^fg,  vr  Lmv-ri^mJ^,  a  place 
sear  water.  The  Lenricks  are  always  fituated  by  running  or  ftagnant  water, 
but  generally  by  the  former,  becaufe  uifg  was  a  name  for  a  imall  river. 

N  .B.  Nt/s  fignifies  the  fame  thing  in  the  Norfe  language  ^  as  lnveroeis»  Bo<* 
Cihannefs,  Blackncfs,  b^r. 

Port-an-eiUan,  the  harbour  of  tbe  f/tand.  In  an  ifland  of  Locfavennacholr^ 
oppoSte  to  this  farm,  there  has  been  a  caftle,  a  place  of  ftrengtb,  and  confcqucnt- 
ly  the  inhabitants  came  aOiore  from  their  ftrbng  hold,  on  this  farm.  Port  is 
evidently  the  fame  word  with  the  Latin  portus,  and  has  the  fame  fignification. 

Tar^n-diin,  the  groin  of  tbe  hill.  Immediately  above  this  place,  there  is  a 
conical  dun  or  hill,  which  han^s  over  it,,  and  on  the  top  of  the  dun  there  has 
been  a  fortification. 

Bo-ehajile,  or  Mo^hajler :  The  firft  name  figniiies  the  town  of  the  enfle^  the 
fecond  the//<7M  of  tbe  caJUe  or  fortification;  alluding  to  the  dun  mentioned  in 
the  former  article,  and  the  extenfive  plain,  on  which  the  farm  town  is^fituated. 
The  Aborigines  of  this  country  |iad  no  other  name  for  a  place  of  ftrengtb,  except 
tai/lal  or  eafier^  which  is  evidently  fynonymous  with  the  cofieilum  and  rajlra  of 
the  Romans.  There  arc  alfo  many  compounded  names  of  places  in  England, 
•f  which  cejler  makes  a  pan.  It  is  however  probable,  that  t^iefe  places  had 
fuch  names  before  the  invaiion  of  Julius  Cjcsa^i,  becaufe  the  ifland  was  well 
Ijeopled,  and  becaufe  the  inhabitants,  but  more  efpecially  tbe  Caledoniens,  had 
not  fuch  refpeA  for  thefe  plunderers  of  tbe  worlds  or  fuch  knowledge  of  their 
language,  as  to  borrpw  the  luuncs  of  places  from  them. 

Qar-m 


of  Callander,  ^ij 

Cent  tenfe  is  made  up  of  the  prefent  participle,  and  the  prefeat 

of 

Gar*ch9iiU^  or  Gar^choine,  the  inclo/ure  of  iam^ntatioa,  from  m  bloody  battlcf 
between  two  clans,  of  which  the  tradition  is  ftill  frcfli  in  the  country. 

Acb-an-lavkbt  the  fieU  of  the  iuduftriouj.  There  arc  great  cairm^  or 
heaps  of  field  ftones,  gathered  off  the  arable  groond,  which,  at  the  prefent  rate 
0f  wages,  would  have  coft  nearly  the  price  of  the  farm. 

Cart,  the  Jteld,  Gart  fignifies  an  arable  field  of  fome  extent.  Cartemn  it 
the  diminutiTe.    Soth  names  are  much  ufed  in  the  Highlands. 

Ari-vurircbeardUb,  tht  fbealling  of  tbe  Moravian  tinker*  Every  place  of 
this  country,  in  the  early  ages,  abounded  in  wood,  and  there  are  vefUges,  in 
many  parts,  of  forL aces,  where  caft  iron  was  either  made,  or  fmelted,  and  formeit 
into  rude  implements,  which  were  iKceflTary  for  the  ufe  of  the  inhabitants.' 
—If  we  allow  the  authenticity  of  what  Scot  of  Scotftarvet  fays,  in  his 
Hi/iory  of  Seotiand^  that  the  county  of  Moray  was  fo  named  from  a  num^ 
ber  of  Moravians  who  fettled  there,  and  that  th^y  were  an  a^ive  and  in- 
genious people,  thefe  Germans  very  probably  imported  the'  art  of  working' 
in  caft  iron,  pxadlifed  it  themlelvet,  and  went  up  and  down  through  the  coon* 
try,  teaching  their  art  to  the  inhabitants :  And  in  the  intervaU  of  peace,  whe» 
national  induftry  was  encouraged  by  the  ftate,  conlidering  the  difficulty  of  get« 
ting  iron  from  abroad,  fome  of  them  might  bave  been  fettled  by  government,^ 
at  Ari'Vuri'Cheardich,  The  GaeKc  always  applies  the  word  which  fignifies 
tinker,  to  one  wh«  works  irv  caft  iron ;  and  the  word  which  fignifies  ^finitb^  \» 
one  who  works  iq  iron  that  is  malleable. 

BrocMn,  full  oi  hadgeri^  a  iarm  where  thefe  animals  ftill  abounds 
14a  I 

Bincan,    a   peak   rifing   behind   the  Trofachs,   which    feems   to   be    all 

that   remains,   in    its  original   fituation,   of  the  mountain  from  which  the* 

Trofachs  were  formed.    It  is  very  fingular,  from  the  finallnefs  of  its  cir-* 

cumference,    and    the  altitude  with   which  it  pufhes  its  head  up  into  the 

clouds.    This  word    is    the   diminutive    of  bein,    a   mountain.    The  dimi- 

nutives  in  Gaelic  are    moftly    formed    by  adding  the  fy liable  eon,  or  an^ 

to  the  end  of  mafculine,  and  ag  to  feminine  words,  with  fbmetimesa  fmall  va« 

nation  of  the  preceding  vowels,  for  foftening  tbe  found.    The  language  of  a 

people  15  always  fmooth  o^  rugged,  harmonious  or  harili,  correfponding  to  the 

tafte  of  that  people  for  mufic,  and  to  the  nicety  oT  their  ear.    The  Gaelic  pays 

particular  attention  to  this  circumftance,  although  it  has  the  appearance  of  be.' 

ing  altogether  guttural  to  a  ftranger :  Thefit  gutturals  are  omitted  in  pronouncing 

It,  being  preferved  only,  in  order  to  afcertain  the  derivation,  and  point  out  the 

toot  of  the  wonL    Some  late  improvements,  attempted  in  that  language,  are 

f  ickiog  out  the  briflUs^  to  givt  it  •  fmoother  appeanoce  to  the  eye,  without 

feemiag 


€i  *  Stdt0tcai  JccoutJt 

bf  the  auxiliary  verb,  which  fignifies/o  he  (a). 

The  perfons  of  each  tenfe  are  diftinguiflied,  n«t  by  di^ 
fcrent  terminations  of  the  verb,  but  bjr  ttldtng  ptoabounal 
particles  to  each  perfon,  both  in  the  fingular  and  phfral  nihn« 
bcrs  (i).  The  third  perfon  Angular  bf  cverjr  tenfe  has 
genders,  or  admits  of  a  mafculine  and  feminine  particle  affix- 
hi.  (c).  The  moods,  in  a  ftrid  fenfe,  are  the  indicative;  &e 
imperative,  and  the  infinitive.  Some  mode  of  exprefBng  whit 
is  called  the  fubjun£Hve^  muft  be^  in  everj  language.  In 
Gaelic,  it  differs  from  the  indicative  onlj  by  the  addition  of 
one  fyllable  io  the  verb,  and  a  conjunftion  before  it  (if).  The 
imperative  has  nd  more  than  the  fecond  perfon  in  both  mim- 
bers  (r).  The  adion  of  the  third  perfon  is  exprefled  by  the 
fubjunftive,  whether  it  implies  command  or  de^re  (Jf)* 
The  infinitive  is  frequently  ufed  as  a  fubjiloAzve  nodn,  ex- 
preffivfe  6f  the  abftraft  fignification  of  the  verb  (j).  The 
gerunds  are  expreiTed  by  the  infinitive,  and  are  known  by  the 
particles  being  placed  before  them,  which  mark  the  oblique 
cafes  of  nouns  (i).  There  is  only  one  conjugation.  Cram- 
4  marians/ 


feeming  to  attend  to  the  confequence,  which  will  Se  feeblencfs  and  dbfcurity. 
Hie  ear  is  aerer  hurt  bj  confonants,  which  are  not  founded.  The  other  Uo* 
gnages  of  the  north  of  Europe,  and  alfo  the  oriental  languages,  retain  their  ra- 
dical confonants,  without  which  it  would  be  impoflible  to  know  their  meaning 
<Mr  derivation. 

(ja)  The  prefent  is,  ata-wi  fgrvo^  t  am  Writing,  or  I  write.  The  perfed, 
fgriv-mi^  I  wrote;  future,  jjrm/i^-w/,  I  (hall  Write,  (i)  ^grvo-m';  fgrw-i^ 
jjriv-/,  /sriV'Jin{  fgri'U'fivt  fgriv-iad.  (r)  Sgriv-e,  he  wrote;  Jgrhf^^  fht 
wrote,  (i)  Hiiih-?,  chum  f^un  Jgriveab-e,  he  fat  that  he  might  write.  (^) 
Scrfv^vst  write  thou ;  fcriv-iz\  write  ye-  (/)  Third  perfbn  fingular,  Jkn* 
veab-tt  let  him  write ;  third  perfon  plural,  fcriveab^aifiui,  let  them 
write.  (^)  The  infinitive  is,  f,:riveab,  as,  ba  mi  dol  fcnveab^  I  am  going 
to  write ;  we  fay,  ciod  an  fcri^eab-Jin,  what  writ  or  writing  is  that  ?— C^) 
4n/crhfeQb^  of  writing;  do  /criv^ab,  to  writing;  cbim/crivcab^  ad/cribeadaim  % 

U 


gjT  Callander,  6i  7 

«iaTianSy  the  moft  learned  in  thofe  languages  which  have 
theneareft  affinity  to  the  Gaelic,  have  exploded  every  conjuga- 
tion,  except  one  ;  or  have  acknowledged,  at  leaft,  that  more 
than  one  are  unneceffary,  becaufe  the  reft  are  only  modifica- 
tions of  the  fame  vetffe,  and  declined  in  the  fame  manner  (/)• 
There  are  no  more  than  one  declenfion,  unlcfs  we  call  the 
mafculine  wo.ds  one,  and  the  ftminine  another.  The  cafes 
of  nouns  are  marked,  not  by  additional  te.minations,  but  by 
different  particles,  which  are  peculiar  to  each  cafe,  and  gene- 
tally  a  change  of  the  laft  vowel  in  fome  of  the  cafes  {k').  The 
genitive  is  often  known  by  the  conflruQion,  When  one  fub- 
flantive  governs  another,  the  accent  is  put  on  the  laft  fyllable 
of  the  preceding  word,  with  fome  change  in  tlie  vowels  9 
which,  without  any  pofleffive  particle,  fliows  that  the  follow- 
ing word  is  underftood  to  be  in  the  genitive  cafe.  Two  fub-. 
if  antives,  pronounced  with  the  fame  tone,  are  of  the  nomina- 
tive cafe;  but  the  accelerated  pronunciation  always  denotes 
the  poffeffive.  This  conftru£tiQo  is  called  by  grammarians, 
who  treat  of  it,  the/tatus  abfolutus  and  the  ftatus  confttuBuf 
-ofwordfl(/).  The  degree?  of  comparifon  are  formed,  not 
by  addingcertain  fyllables  to  the  end  of  the  adjeSives,  but  by 
placing  before  them  ;  for  the  comparative^  an  indeclinable 
word,  fignifying  a  higher  degree  of  their  quality ;  and  for  the 
fuperlattve^  either  another  indeclinable  word,  denoting  their 
liigheft  degree,  or  very  frequently  a  repetition  of  the  pofi- 
tive  (ot).  *, 

Vol,  XI,  4 1  <ieneral 


iefcrivenb,  with  wmin|^.  (i)  Scriv  is  fwrote^  the  perfc<fl  active  ;  and  fcrkit  \% 
^Miiten,  the  perfe^  palUve.  (it)  Ri.  a  king  :  gen.  r/,  or  an  i  ;  dat  do  ri;  accuf. 
ri ;  voc.  o  ri*,  abl.  o  ri.  (/)  Cean ri,  a  kin^Vhead ;  nun  ri^ a  king':!  crown.  (i») 
ArU^  high;  nas  atrd,  higher;  tj  aird^  highetc;  ro  ard,  or  ard  ard^  very  high. 

•  Mort  of  the  charadlcriftic  features  of  the  Gaelic  might  have  b;cn  given. 


5 1 8  Statifiical  Account 

General  ClaraBer. — The  cbarafier  of  the  people  is  vsrioos  ; 
hut,  in  general,  both  here  and  along  the  eaftem  fide  of  theGram* 

piansy 

and  the  tzimplef  of  eacb*  hr  the  file  of  illttftrttkm,  tddcd ;  bot  ptriitpi  to 
ibine  perfons,  what  hu  been  already  faid  may  appear  too  mnck,  while  otbeis 
will  fee,  in  the  cAiftitotion  of  this  language,  a  very  finking  affbnij  to  the 
faftem  ianguaget,  in  (bme  of  their  nipil  difiinguifhing  pccn^arlties.  9uch  a 
ftron^  likened,  and  clear  analogy,  cannot  poffibly  be  the  tlfSt€t  of  chance.  To 
the  candid,  who  are  at  pains  to  trace  it  with  induitry  and  impartiaiity,  it  mvft 
infer  a  near  propinquity  in  thefe  languages,  and  an  origin  from  the  fame  fimrce. 
(Thu  is  the  manner  of  reafoning  with  regard  to  the  analogy  between  the  on- 
f  otal  languages  thcmfelves ;  and  |t  is  vniverfally  allowed  to  be  condnfiTe. 

Evidence  of  this  nature,  founded  on  prools  drawn  fixxn  the  Gmiiarity  or  the 
derivation  of  a  few  words,  are  generally  regarded  with  fome  degree  of  fufpi' 
cion ;  but  fnch  a  ftriking  analogy,  in  the  very  coa/Hhtihmai  and  fimdamental 
principles  of  languages,  and  that  in  ib  many  particulars,  is  a  very  diilerent  kiul 
pf  proof;  %nd,  in  all  cafes,  implies  a  family  likpneis,  which  ii  fairly  and  fiiUy 
recognisfd,  and  carries  convi^ion  to  the  mind. 

Tiv's  convi^on  is  tlrenj^thcnedy  if  it  be  allowed,  on  the  credit  of  Ezekiel,  Stra- 
bo,  Jofephus  Bochart,  Diodorus,  Cie&r,  Tftcitns,  tod  others,  (and  I  know  not 
how  their  teftimony  can  be  refofed),  that  the  Celts  and  Scythiaas  vrere  one 
gr^at  people,  or  that  they  frequently  mixed  together,  i^  (hey  jidvanced  in  their 
prpgr6fs,  and  in  the  ncighboorhoo4  of  each  other,  irom  Alia  to  the  vreftera 
boundaries  of  Europe ;  and  that  they  hiid  a  near  affinity,  both  of  kindred,  and 
of  language,  and  manners,  being  fprung  from  Gomcr  and  Magog,  the 
grandfons  of  Noah,  by  Japhet.  Thefe  fons  of  Japhet  were  the  firft  conHns  of 
Eber«  the  father  of  the  Hebrews.  Their  family  laog;uage  muft  have  been  ori< 
ginaily  tlic  JGuiie,  and  their  dpim  to  antiquity  equally  w^Q  founded* 

While  tribei  condnne  unmixed  vrith  people  of  other  tongnea,  their  langmge 
continues  pure :  But  when  empires  are  overturned,  and  fierce  invafioot  take 
place,  the  natives  and  foreigners,  the  invaded  and  invaders,  are,  in  a  coorfe  of 
years,  blended  together,  and  their  languages,  however  different,  are  melted 
down  in  into  one  tongue.  This  has  introduced  a  confnfion  into  naodem  lan- 
guages and  nations;  by  their  being  compoimded  of  diffsrent  raccf,  and  of  a 
mixture  of  different  words  and  idioms,  from  which  more  aaciait  langpagct 
|U)d  an  unmixed  people  are  altogether  free. 

The  emigrations  and  feparations  of  the  fame  people,  into  differant  natiooa  and 
frjbcs,  introduces  indeed  di^erent  dialeds  of  the  original  language,  biit  never 
^c  mixed  language,  which  follows  from  a  mixture  of  hetcrageneons  peoples  and 

tongues. 


hf  Callander.  *6i9 

^ianti  they  are  ^vefted  of  the  foUeniiefs  of  thofe^  in  the  fam^ 
rank)  who  inhabit  the  champaign  country  farther  £•  and  S*t 

4  I  a  and 

toDpxes.  Of  thefe  (adi  every  perfon  cao  quote  itifbuiccs  for  himfelCi  No  great 
tribes  of  mankin4  appear  ^^  to  have  been  more  )calous  of  othen,  or  more  de- 
firoiiB  of  preferting  tbedifelTel  a  dlfttnd  people,  and  every  thing  diftinft,  thaS 
Bdddged  to  them»  than  the  Ceks  add  Hebrewa, — Bat  I  h^ften  to  drop  this  fab^ 
jea.' 

The  Gaelic,  being  the  language  of  a  people  by  no  means  refined,  muft  ne« 
ceflarily  appear  as  defe&me  as  the  languages  of  other  nations  in  the  fame  ftate 
of  fociety.  Languages  are  not  invented  by  pbUofipbers^  and  formed  from  tbeO" 
rieSf  nor  by  nations  in  the  nfore  poliflied  ftages  of  fociety;  but  by  men  engaged 
in  the  bofieft  fcenei  of  life,  and  in  the  infancy  of  fociety.  In  the  rude  ages, 
the  wants  of  men  are  fevr,  and  their  ideas  limited :  Their  language  correfponds 
with  their  fituation.  They  have  no  ufe  for  words  to  ezprels,  either  circumftauces 
which  do  not  oceur,  or  ideas  which  they  have  not  acquired.  Their  language  ii 
abundantly  cbpions  for  themfclves.  In  the  progrcfs  and  more  refitfed  ftages  of  fo- 
ciety, when  arts  and  fciences,  f  nd  commerce  and  luxury,  are  introduced,  a  nation 
nmft  have  new  words  to  ezprefs  thefe ;  and  they  generally  borrow  the  worda 
ftod  phrafes,  from  the  people  who  are  their  inftrudlors  in  the  innovations  intro. 
duceiL  They  alfo  learn,  by  degrees,  to  ezprefs  themfelves  with  more  precifion, 
«veii  with  regard  to  time :  Hence  not  only  a  multitude  of  new  words,  but  a 
greater  variety  of  moods  and  tenfes,  in  their  verbs. 

£ven  the  Greek  and  Latin,  which  are  accounted  the  moft  perfe<ft  languages^ 
smd  abound  in  modes  of  ezpref&ng  time,  have  fewer  original  tenfes  than  one 
would  at  fir'ft  fappofe.  Their  compound  Unfes  are  nothing  elie  but  certain 
participles,  coupled  with  an  auxiliary  verb.  And  thefe  compound  tenfes  in  the 
paffive  voice,  and  fomc  of  their  derived  tenfes  in  the  adtive,  together  with  fuch. 
a  variety  of  moods,  were  not,  in  all  probability,  invented  at  the  time  of  formin^^ 
tlie  language,  but  when  the  language  was  improved,  and  while  the  fociety  was 
advancing  from  barbarifm  to  refinement.  The  fame  ftruifture  takes  place  in 
French  and  Engliih ;  and  may  be  owing  to  the  fame  caufe.  The  Greek  that 
was  fpoken  by  Jafon  and  his  Argonauts,  in  queft  of  the  golden  fleece,  and  the 
Latin  fpoken  by  the  Romans,  in  the  Sabine  war,  may  have  been  as  defective,  in 
all  refpeds,  as  the  Gaelic,  ill  the  days  of  Offian.  This  poverty,  therefore,  is  not 
d  fault  of  the  language,  but  the  unavoidable  lot  of  e^oery  language^  fpoken  in 
the  fame  ftate  of  fociety.  And  a  language  muft  continue  for  ever  banen,  when 
boekf  are  not  written  in  it,  to  bring  it  upon  the  anvil  of  the  critic,  or  when  the 
tide  of  iafliion  runs  in  favour  of  another  language,  whenever  the  fitfte  of  fociety 
htpM  10  be  improved. 


62'0*  Statlftical  Account 

and  of  the  idlenefs  of  thofe,  farther  N.  and  W,  They  ha^' 
not  perhaps  arrived  at  the  plodding  ioduftrj  of  the  former, 
-while  they  have  reliiiqulihed  much  of  the  pride  of  the  latter. 
They  are  fill  acquiring  the  diligence  and  attention  neccfikry 
in  the  agricultural  (late  of  fociety,  and  are  in  a  great  meafure 
free  from  the  vices  of  great  towns  *•  The  people  are  hanAne, 
aScSionate,  and  polite.  But  if  the  enlargement  of  farms  is 
introduced,  and  the  country  depopulated  to  make  room  for 
iheep,  the  inhahitancs  muft  emigrate,  or  croud  to  villages : 
And  if  villages  are  increafed,  without  due  regard  to  their  po- 
lice, their  employment,  and  their  manners,  it  were  much  better 
for  the  people,  and  their  country,  that  they  had  never  feen 
a  village,  but  had  remained  in  the  fimplicity  of  rural  life, 
wrapped  in  their  plaids  all  day  long,  as  their  fathers  were,  on 
the  brow  of  a  hill,  attending  their  cattle,  and  compoiing 
ibnnets. 

Peculiar  Cujiomv — The  people  of  this  diflrid  have  two  cuf- 
toms,  which  are  faft  wearing  our,  not  only  here,  but  all  over 
the  Highlands,  and  therefore  ought  to  be  taken  notice  of,  while 
they  remain.  Upon  the  firll  day  of  May,  which  is  called  EeL 
tan^  or  BaUtein  day,  all  the  boys  in  a  tt)wnlhip  or  hamlet, 
meet  in  the  moors.  They  cut  a  table  in  the  green  fod,  of  a 
round  Sgure,  by  cafting  a  trench  in  the  ground,  of  fuch  circum^ 
ference  as  to  hold  the  whole  company.  They  kindle  a  fire, 
and  drefs  a  rcpail  of  eggs  and  milk  in  the  confiilencc  of  a  cuf- 
tard.  They  knead  a  cake  of  oatme&l,  which  b  toafted  at  the 
embers  againft  a  ftofie.  After  the  cuftard  is  eaten  up,  they 
divide  the  cake  into  fo  many  poitlons,  as  fimilar  as  poUible 

to 

*  Only  one  inftance  of  child-murdeV,  and  another  of  futcide,  iiaTe  cxxunred 
if\  this  pariCh  in  the  memory  of  raan.  No  perfon  was  ever  known  to  be  faangcil 
or  tranfported  for  felony  uli3  bcljn|^ed  to  this  dillri(^.  None  has  ever  beca 
Iic«rd  of  to  die  for  want. 


tf  Callander.  ^Ti 

fn  one  another  in  fize  and  (htpe,  as  there  are  perfons  in  the' 
companj.  They  daub  one  of  thefe  portions  all  over  with- 
charcoal,  until  it  be  perfeSly  black.  They  put  all  the  bits  of 
the  cake  into  a  bonnet.  Every  one,  blindfold,  draws  out  % 
portion*  He  who  holds  the  bonnet,  i^  entitled  to  the  laft  bit. 
Whoever  draws  the  black  bit,Js  the  ^/rvaf^^  perfon  who  is 
to  be  faeriieed  to  Baal*^  whofe  favour  they  n^ean  to  implore,  ii^ 
rendering  the  year  produflive  of  the  fuilenance  of  man  and* 
bead.  There  is  little  doubt  of  thefe  inhuman  facrifices  hav- 
ing been  once  offered  in  this  country,  as  well  as  in  the  eaft^ 
although  they  now  pafs  from  the  ad  of  facrificing,  and  only 
compel  the  devoted  perfon  to  leap  three  times  through  the 
flames  ;  with  which  the  ceremonies  of  this  feflival  are  clofed. 
The  other  cuftom  is,  that  on  All-Saints  Even,  they  fet  up* 
bonfires  in  every  village.  When  the  bonfire  is  confumed,  the 
alhes  are  carefully  colleded  in  the  form  of  a  circle.  There  i»- 
a  ftone  put  in,  near  the  circumference,  for  every  perfon  of  the 
feveral  families  intereiled  in  the  bonfire  -,  and  whatever  done 

is- 


^  Bal^ein  Bgnifies  the  jSrr  of  Baal.  JBaal^  or  BoU^  is  the  only  word  in  Gaelic 
for  a  globe.  This  fcftival  was  probably  in  honour  of  the  fun,  whofe  return,  in  his 
apparent  annual  courfe,  they  celebrated,  on  account  of  his  having  fuch  a  vinblty 
inflae nee,  by  his  genial- warmth,  on  the  produdlions  of  the  earth.  That  the  €«<- 
ledoniaiu  paid  a  fuperftitioui  refpe^  to  the  fan,  as  was  the  pradtice  amon; 
many  other  nations,  is  evident,  not  only  by  the'  facrifice  at  Baltein,  but  upon 
many  other  occafions.  A^Hien  a  Highlander  ^oes  to  bathe,  or  to  drink  waters 
•ut  of  a  confecratcd  fountain,  he  mult  always  approach  by  going  round  the 
place,  from  eajt  to  weft  on  the  fouth  fide ^  in  imitation  of  the  apparent  diumat 
mdtloa  of  the  fun.  When  the  dead  arc  laid  in  the  earth,  the  grave  is  approach. 
cd  by  going  roand  in  the  fame  manner.  The  bride  is  condu^^ed  to  her  future 
fpoufe,  in  the  prefence  of  the  minifter,  and  the  glais  goes  round  a  company,  ia 
the  courfc  of  the  fun.  This  is  called,  in  Gaelic,  going  round  the  light,  or  the- 
lucky  way.  The  oppofite  courfe  is  the  wrong,  or  the  unlucky  way.  And  if  a 
perfbn's  meat  or  drink  weft  to  affedt  the  wiiid*pipe,  or  come  againft  his  breathy 
they  inftanUy  cry  out  deijbeall  which  is  aa  ejaculaiioix  praying  that  it  ma^  g» 
by  the  right  way. 


62%  '  Statiftical  AceoMnI 

u  moved  out  of  its  place,  or  injured  before  next  aoming,  tiie 
perfoQ  reprefented  by  that  ftone  b  devoted,  or  fey ;  and  i^ 
iiippoled  not  to  live  twelve  months  from  that  daj.  The  peo- 
ple received  the  confecrated  fire  from  the  Druid  priefts  next 
momiogy  the  virtues  of  which  were  liippofed  to  condnae  for 
•  year. 

Staturt  and  Manner  of  Xiviiff .— The  inhabitants  of  this 
diftrid,  are  neither  remarkable  for  the  tallnefs  nor  the  ihort* 
neis  of  their  ftature.  They  are,  in  general,  well  ihaped  ;  and 
very  few  or  none  deformed  from  their  birth.  A  common  la- 
bourer, who  etais  xs.  or  zs.  3d.  a  day,  is  thereby  enabled,  to- 
gether with  the  indoftry  of  his  wife,  to  bring  up  5  or  6  child* 
ren,  with  very  little  hdp  from  the  public.  By  the  time  the 
children  are  8  or  io  years  of  age,  he  hires  them  out  to  attend 
cattle,  in  fummer,  and  puts  them  to  fchool  in  winter.  His 
earnings  buy  meal  for  the  whole  family ;  and  a  few  potatoes, 
which  he  raifes  on  a  fpot  of  ground^  that  he  rents  with  his 
hottfe,  and  a  cow's  milk,  enable  them  to  pals  the  winter  com-s 
fortably. 

AdvaMases. — ^This  diftriS  has  the  advantage  of  Beingfituated 
on  the  great  military  road,  which  leads  from  Stirling  to  Fort- 
William,  and  of  having  5  fairs  in  the  year.  The  merchants 
of  this  country,  being  near  the  Highlands,  have  the  firft  offer 
for  all  the  commodities  in  which  they  can  fupply  the  places 
beyond  them ;  and  its  vicinity  to  the  Low  Country,  enables  it 
to  partake  of  the  plenty  which  there  abounds.  The  fchool 
brings  a  good  deal  of  money  to  the  place,  by  the  refort  of 
boarders,  and  of  families,  who  take  lodgings  in  and  about  Cat- 
lander,  for.  the  education  of  their  children.  Some  genteel  fa- 
milies take  fummer  quarters  for  the  benefit  of  the  goat  whey : 
And  although  the  grain  is  no  move  than  adequate  to  the  con-* 

X  fumptioo 


%f  Callander.  623 

lamptloa  of  the  inhabitants,  yet  there  are  fo  manj  Iheep  and 
cows«  fo  much  wool  and  yam,  befides  the  produce  of  the  dairy, 
fold  off  every  year,  that  they  can  fupply  themfelvea  abundant* 
ly,  and  have  a  furplus  to  pay  their  rents.  This  place  lies 
fo  near  the  cattle  markets  at  Doune,  and  in  that  neighbour- 
hood, that  our  graziers  have  not  only  a  ready  fale  for  their 
own  cows,  but  can  let  any  remainder  they  have  of  grafii,  in 
their  parks,  to  great  advantage,  both  while  the  drovers  from 
the  Highlands  are  going  forward,  and  when  any  cattle  remain 
unfold,  from  one  market  to  another. 

DifadvantageL^^Th^  principal  difadvantages  are,  that  the 
coals  arezS  ftatute  miles  diftant ;  and  thatliine  is  but  a  miles 
neareri  if  our  quarry  at  Leney  ihould  dip  fo  much  that  it  can- 
not be  wrought,  which  is  very  probable  ;  that  the  village  of 
Callander  may  increafe  fafler  than  the  induftry  of  the  people  \ 
and  that  the  growing  luxury  of  the  times,  efpecially  in  the 
articles  of  drefs,,  may,  unleis  it  be  fupported  by  honeft  labour, 
drive  them  to  ufe  improper  means  to  fupply  their  artificial 
wants.  There  is  a  communication  opening  between  this  place 
and  Comrie,  and  the  countries  adjacent  to  it,  on  the  N.  But 
this  line  of  road  is  incomplete,  unleb  the  road  from  Callaa- 
der  to  Thornhill,  and  the  Bridge  of  Frews,  be  put  in  proper  re- 
pair, and  the  direction,  in  many  places,  changed.  The  two 
countries  would  then  be  more  conneded,  and  the  reciprocal 
benefit  of  both  advanced  in  a  high  degree ;  which  is  evidently 
the  intereft  of  the  fuperiors  of  Thornhill  and  Callander,  and 
of  the  country  at  large* 

Miaui  of  Impfovenunt^^Tht  moft  apparent  means  of  ame- 
liorating the  circHmftances  of  the  people  of  this  place,  are  the 
introduftion  of  feme  public  works ;  either  the  fpinning  or 
weaving  of  wool,  upon  a  larger  fcale;  the  fpinning  of  cotton, 

the 


624  Statiftkal  Account 

Cbe  bleaching  of  linen,  or  the  printing  of  cotton  dotbe^f: 
But  we  cannot  cxpeft  to  fee  the  mannfadure  of  cotton 
mt  home,  meet  with  the  encouragement  it  oagbt,  as  long 
as  the  monopolizers  of  cotton  goods  from  the  £aft  In* 
dies  have  fuch  a  weight  in  the  public  councib  of  the  na. 
tion,  unlefs  the  firmnefs,  and  the  public  fpirit  of  the  mi- 
jiiftry  interpofe,  in  behalf  of  the  manufafture  of  their 
own  country.  In  the  infancy  of  any  trade,  monopolies 
may  be  necelTary  for  its  profperity;  but,  in  its  advanced 
ilate,  monopolies  are  its  ruin,  and  that  of  the  country  to  which 
it  belongs.  Our  flates,  too,  might  be  carried  to  the  (bore  of 
Stirling,  to  which  we  have  a  fine  road.  Markets  might 
be  eflabliihed  for  the  fale  of  (beep,  at  proper  feafons,  in 
the  fame  manner  as  for  cows,  and  we  might  have  a  cow- 
market  in  the  fall,  the  fame  as  on  the  15th  of  May.  A  great 
many  more  Scotch  firs  ihould  be  planted.  Such  is  the  pre. 
fent  fcarcity  of  this  wood  at  Callander,  that  a  cubical  foot  of 
it  fells  as  dear  iu  this  place,  as  that  from  the  Baltic,  at  the 
ihore  of  Stirling.  If  the  village  fiiall  be  increafed  farther, 
Scotch  firs  or  larches,  of  all  kinds  of  timber,  are  the  moft  necef- 
fary  for  that  purpofe;  and  there  is  plenty  of  wafte  ground,  unfit 
for  tillage,  and  yielding  very  little  pafture.  Inoculation  might 
be  rendered  more  general,  and  many  lives  faved  to  the  public, 
if  any  method  were  deviued  for  having  it  performed  to  the  poor 
gratis.  The  furgeons  of  Edinburgh  deferve  great  praife  in 
this  refpcfl:.  Out  of  ihcfc  princely  donations,  which  the  Society 
fcr  Propagating  Chriflian  Knowledge  in  Scotland,  have  lately 

received, 

t  Since  OAober  1791,  when  this  account  wa$  fent  to  Sir  John  Sinclair,  the 
sreaving  of  cotton  has  been  introduced  into  the  village  of  Callander ;  and  a<»out 
zoo  looms  arc  employed.  Two  tambour  fchools,  for  the  flowering  of  colt  on 
goods,  have  alfo  been  eftablifhed,  which  afford  employment  to  upwards  of  ic3 
girls.  And,  had  it  not  been  for  the  check  that  credit  has  received  in  iprtn- 
1703,  it  is  probable  thefe  branches  would  have  adranced  with  rapiditj,  u  tb': 
|>eopIe  (liuTover  a  great  Agernef^  to  be  emplojed. 


of  Callander.  625 

received,  foinethiDg  might  furelj  be  done,  in  this  way  ;  either 
by  allowing  a  trifie  to  the  furgeon  of  the  boundF,  where  there 
is  one,  for  every  poor  fcholtr  on  their  eftublifiiment,  that  was 
inoculated;  or  by  employing  a  few  forgeons,-  in  their  own  pay, 
each  to  inoculate  the  poor  in  a  certain  diilrifl ;  or  by  caufing  the 
moft  intelligent  of  theif  fchoolmafters  to  be  inftruded  for  this 
purpofe.  If  the  women  inoculate  in  the  eaft/  (as  yfe  are  told 
they  do),  fchoolmafters  certainly  might,  with  very  few  kflbns^ 
be  taught  to  do  it  here  ;  and  if  the  falaries  are  to  be  increafed, 
this  wouI4  be  a  moil  landable  duty,  in  return  for  the  increale 
of  (alary.  The  funds  of  this  fociety  are  faid  to  be  one  of  the 
beft  managed  public  (locks,  of  the  fame  capital,  in  the  Britilh 
dominions ;  and  from  the  known  charafier  of  the  members, 
who  are  fo  high  already  in  the  efteem  of  the  public,  that  no 
account  of  their  qualities  is  neceiTary  here^  it  might  not  per- 
haps be  foreign  to  the  objed  of  their  in(lituti6n,  for  a  few 
years,  until  inoculation  became  general^  to  beftow  fome  at- 
tention in  promoting  the  health  and  preferving  the  lives  of 
their  poorer  fcholars,  while  there  is  fo  much  done  to  enlighten 
their  minds,  and  to  reform  their  morals.  The  number  of 
dogs  might  be  diminilhed  by  a  judicious  tax.-  There  are  more 
vfekjs  dogs,  than  what  confumfe  three  times  the  quantity  of 
food,  which  tcould  maintain  the  whole  poor.  The  number 
of  dram  houfes  is  out  of  all  bounds  too  great.  Thefe  haunts  of 
the  idle,  of  the  prodigal  and  profane,  contaminate  the  mo- 
rals of  the  lower  cla(rcs  of  the  people  beyond  deferlption.  A 
poor  widow  mud  pay  a  tax,  before  flie  can  obtain  a  candle  to 
give  her  light,  in  {pinning  for  the  fuppoit  of  her  fatherlefs  child- 
ren; and  yet  a  dran.-fellcr,  it  feemr,  can  get  a  licence,  under 
the  fanclton  of  Inw,  for  little  more  than  one  fliilling,  to  cor- 
rupt the  morals  of  the  lieges  for  a  whole  ytar*  The  cfepopu- 
lation  of  the  country  is  a  moft  ferious  objcft  ;  atid  it  is  to  be 
feared  that  a  fuflicient  remedy  may  not  eafily  be  found  ;  and 
Vol.  XI.  4  K  '  that 


6^6  Staliftical  Account 

that,  when  we  have  battles  to  fight  in  any  future  wars,  our  hardy 
peafantry,  who  are  the  ftrength  of  a  country,  may  be  gonej 
and  we  (hall^ave  none  to  recruit  our  armies,  except  a  band 
pf  mercenaries  from  abroad,  (who  may  tur|i  their  fwords 
againft  ourfelves),  and  effeminate  manufaflures,  or  defencelels 
flieep  and  ihepherds  dogs.  •To  prevent  this  national  evil,  emi*' 
graiion  muft  be  ftopt,  either  by  legal  reftraints,  or  by  found 
policy.  It  is  very  doubtful,  whether  perfons  can  be  conftitu^ 
tionally  detained,  hy  force ^  in  this  country,  and  prevented  from 
tranfporting  thcmfclves  and  their  efR^as,  wherever  they  are 
inclined.  Unlefs,  therefore,  the  legiflature  can  interfere,  in 
recommending  what  fpecies  of  ftock  is  to  cover  the  &ce  of  the 
country,  or  in  directing  the  proprietors  of  land  to  ercfi  well 
rc;;uhited  villages^  with  proper  conveniences,  on  fuitable  parts 
of  their  elUttfs,  and  preferve  the  numbers  of  their  refpedive 
people  undiminijbed^  nothing  can  be  done  by  the  public,  to 
put  a  ftop  to  depopulation,  or  to  prevent  many  parts  of  this 
kingdom  from  becotning  a  defert,  but  to  lay  s^  tax  upon  all 
ftore  farmb,  m  proportion  to  the  number  of  their  £hcep. 

The  water  of  Tiri  (the  Boar  water)  which  flows  from  Glen* 
finglafs,  falls  at  right  angles  into  the  river  thatiffucs  from  Loch* 
Acliray.  The  impctuofity  of  the  ftream  has  collefted  fuch  a 
bank  of  gravel  and  Hones  at  the  confluence,  that  the  lake  is 
thrown  back  ijpon  fome  valuable  land.  This  might  be  eafily 
remedied,  and  the  expence  would  probably  be  no  more  than 
the  rent  for  two  or  three  years  of  the  land,  gained.  One  fide 
of  this  lake  belongs  to  the  Duke  of  Montrofe,  the  other  to 
the  Earl  of  Moray  and  the  Hon.  Mr.  Drummond  of  Perth; 
who  certainly  might  find  their  intcreft  in  laying  out  the  ne- 
ceflTary  charges. 

Some  trads  of  land,  indeed,  are  fitted  only  for  pafture ;  but 
where  the  ground  has  been  cultivate i  for  fages,  and  many 
(ainiiics  luaintaiacd  decently,  with  a  numerous  and  hardy  oflT* 

fprinp. 


9f  Callander.  Cij 

fpriog,  eyery  patriot's  heart  muft  bleed  to  fee  Teveral  ihip^ 
annually  loaded  from  thence,  with  the  human  fpecies^  for 
foreign  ihores,  and  flieep  pafturing  where  men  ihould  live. 

Brztahvia  fits  already  on  a  folitary  rock,  hangs  down  her 
bead,  and,  with  her  eyes  bent  towards  America,  {he  de^i 
plores  the  departure  of  her  fons.  Ere  long,  ihe  ihall  ihed  a 
flood  of  tears,  and  her  cries  of  diftreCs  will  be  heard  in  vain  ; 
when  her  lioa  is  trodden  in  the  mire,  by  bis  foes,  and  none  tQ 
^grd  relief^ 


Ijstd  of  Yolubie  EleventHi 


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