BIHBING LIST FEB 1 1922
F
5503
EXPLANATION
MAP, PLATES,
THE Map which accompanies this volume has been
compiled from the best authorities, and with much care.
The first proofs of it and the plates, while yet incomplete,
were thrown off in November, 1820, and sent to America
as a pledge that my work, though long delayed in its exe-
cution, was not laid aside; and that I was still true to the
cause of Canada. Owing to the uueApeoted and extraor-
dinary delay since then, I have had remarks sent home
which have enabled me to correct some errors; and in the
mean time the surveys made during the government of the
Duke of Richmond, having been received from Upper
Canada, are now added, including more than fifty town-
ships. To distinguish these from others I have caused
their names to be engraved upwards. The mischief done
by the Duke of Richmond in laying out so many town-
ships fo, settlement, and hurrying poor emigrants into the
depths of the wilderness, without thought or preparation,
was infinite: discomfort, want, ague, and death. In
my third volume the miseries experienced by poor emi-
grants, under the present modes of settlement, shall be
VOL. i. a
ii EXPLANATION OF THE MAP, &C#
dwelt upon, and remedies pointed out. In that volume;,
too, my own method of laying out the waste lands of the
crown, and for making roads and canals, a most im-
portant matter indeed, shall be fully explained, with the
aid of those drawings which are exhibited on the spare
spaces of the map, lettered and numbered for reference'
A dotted line running through Lake Huron, and a little
way into Michigan territory, was the water boundary by
the old surveys, and will shew how very inaccurate these
were. The waters below the circle in which the word
Toronto is written have not yet been accurately explored.
The plans of Kingston and York Harbours may be referred
to in a future volume, and will be interesting even now.
To those who do not regard expence, and wisb to save
time, Upper Canada is best approached from Britain by
way of New York ; and for the traveller's information, I
have noted along the great leading roads through the state
of New York, &c. the distances between the principal
stages, which have been examined in that country, and pro-
nounced sufficiently correct. Lines of roads through Upper
Canada are generally, but not so minutely, correct, as I
could have wished. I have let them stand as taken from the
Government surveys, with a few additions. I travelled
through every quarter of Upper Canada; and twice, by
various routes, to and from New York ; so that my per-
sonal knowledge is considerable. No where in Upper
Canada have roads been yet accurately measured, so as to
admit of noting distances, in miles, between stages.
The names of some of the late surveyed townships will
be found variously spelt on the map, and, in the Act of
Parliament, page 693, of vol. II. Whether the printer
of the Statutes of Upper Canada, or the Government Sur-
veyor is most correct, I cannot determine ; but the reader,
with this notice, can make his choice between these au-
thorities,
EXPLANATION OF THE MAP, £c. iii
The views of the Falls of Niagara have been drawn from
my penciling- and directions, by a celebrated artist, land-
scape painter to the late Queen Charlotte, and author of
many elegant works ; Mr, Craig. That in the title of vo-
lume first, and the ground sketch, page 66, have been
examined in Upper Canada, and most highly approved of.
That in the title of volume second I know will be still
better thought of by those who have visited the falls ; and
these plates, together with the description given by the
Writer of the Sketches, page 65, and onward, will, I hope*
afford the British public some faint conception of the sub-
limest scene- on earth ; — a . scene, perhaps designed by
providence, to tempt us across the Atlantic, — to know,
associate with, and esteem our distant fellow men. It is
my sanguine expectation, that we shall proceed from
England to America by steam boats in less than twenty
years, speedily, comfortably, and safely. In the mean
time I earnestly wish that some well-qualified person would
go abroad, and make panorama pictures of the Falls
and Rapids of Niagara, from the stations marked on my
ground sketch " fine view" and " grand view." The globe
does not afford more intwieating subjects, and the pictures,
exhibited in London, would pay well. My wish for this
is ardent, not so much to gratify curiosity, as to increase
it ; — to tempt people of fashion and taste across the At-
lantic. The Tour of Europe has become stale. Every
flower by the way has been picked up, smelt, and flung
aside. The Tour of the West would be found a thousand
times more interesting, instructive, and beneficial* How
delightful to cross the Atlantic in the month of May : to be-
hold vast islands of ice ; and to enjoy a day's fishing on the
banks of Newfoundland !— to enter the mouth of the St.
Lawrence, and to mark its yet desert shores ; one day and not
a distant one to smile with cultivation, and teem with life !
— to catch the first glance of Quebec, a prospect unique,
grand, beautiful, inspiring !— to pursue the lovely course of
iv EXPLANATION OP THE MAP, &C.
the St. Lawrence to Montreal !— to rest for a few days in that
dep6t of commerce, destined to be one of the greatest on
earth ! — again, to pursue the course of the St. Lawrence,
more and more lovely ! — to be enchanted among the Thou-
sand Islands ! — to be delighted with the view of Kingston,
one of the finest in America ! — to take a passing peep at
Little York ; and hail Niagara, bright in the morning rays !
— to spend a month on the Niagara frontier ; and become fa-
miliar with all its indescribable wonders ! — to return home
by way of New York ; devoting a month to survey the
beauties and improvements of the Genessee, a week to the
charming valley of the Mohawk, and two days to inhale
delight descending the Hudson, most picturesque of ri-
vers! Excursions to Boston, Philadelphia, &c. might
happily and usefully employ time till the end of September;
and then, secure from equinoxial storms, huzza for roast beef
and Old England ! ! — Could six months be any how or any
where so well employed ? — Could ^200 (and with economy,
that would be quite sufficient) — could ^200 be better spent ?
and how many thousands of Englishmen are there who have
abundance to spare, both of time and money ? What the
1 deuce are we in tke world for, if we do not see, converse
with, and become acquainted with the world ?
Nothing would advance civilization so rapidly as friendly
intercourse between Europe and America ; and my heart
beats quick with the hope of seeing it established.
Fearon, with his falsehoods, his jaundiced eyes, and his
cockney prejudices, has done infinite mischief — more than
he will atone for by a life-time of preaching *. The British
Tourist will find in America luxuries in abundance,
civility, cleanliness, and excellent sense ; and for all of
* I am sorry that Dr. Howison has written too much in the
same humour. He presents to us the worst features of Canadians,
does not see into causes, and after exciting little else than disgust
with the country, takes leave of " happy Canada !" — Miss Wright
has written in a better spirit ; though not always correct.
EXPLANATION OF THE MAP, &C. T
these i shall match New England against^the globe. I
repeat, that nothing would advance civilization so rapidly as
friendly intercourse between Europe and America. The
inhabitants of the old and new world have no occasion to
quarrel : free trade is the interest of both ; and they can
do nothing better or more becoming than to hold out to
each other the right hand of fellowship.
While the map is still in view, we may say something
of boundaries between the United States and British
America. Our Ministers have been most shamefully
neglectful with regard to these. After the revolutionary war,
they made a Treaty, for which some of them should have
been brought to the block; but that, passed over with
impunity, has only confirmed negligence, " if not worse."
What I allude to, as having happened after the revolutionary
war of America, cannot be better told than by quoting a
passage from a memorial presented by the Merchants of
Lower and Upper Canada to Sir George Prevost, dated
Montreal, Oct. 14th, 1812.
" Posterity will hardly believe, although history must
attest the melancholy and mortifying truth, that in acceding
to the independence of the then thirteen colonies, as states,
their territory was not merely allowed to them, but an
extent of country, then a portion of the province of
Quebec, nearly of equal magnitude to the said thirteen
colonies, or states, was ceded, notwithstanding not a foot of
the country so ceded, was at the time occupied by an
American in arms, nor could have been, had the war
continued ; and this cession is the more remarkable, as New
York and Rhode Island, being then in possession of the
British Army, the surrender of these valuable posts and
places required a large equivalent in territory elsewhere,
instead of giving, as it were, a premium for getting rid of
them."
" Yet such was the ignorance, negligence, or some-
thing worse, of the then Minister of Great Britain, and those
he employed, in regard to geographical position and local
Vi EXPLANATION OF THE MAP, &C.
importance of the territory ceded, that when the merchants
of London, interested in the Canada trade, waited on Mr.
Oswald, the negociator, to represent the impolitic and im-
provident cession of the upper country and posts command-
ing the same; — viz. Michilimackinac, Detroit, Niagara,
&c. ; and to endeavour to discover if some means could
not be devised for averting the destructive consequence
thereof, in respect to the security of Canada, and of the
British trade and influence with the Indians, he literally
burst into tears, acknowledged his complete ignorance of
such posts being in our possession, or even in existence,
and of the country given away being an object worthy of
notice in any respect."
The memorial from which the above extract is taken,
was one among several others presented to Lord Bathurst
by Canada merchants in 1814; and one might have
thought his attention would have been arrested by it. I
happened at that time to have special knowledge of what
was going on. I know it was scarcely possible to rouse
Lord Bathurst, even to the appearance of concern ; and to
be sure the treaty of peace was soon after concluded, with
little regard indeed to Canadian interests. What was one
day insisted on as a sine qua non, (the independence of the
North- West Indians), was, the next, relinquished without a
struggle ; nor did indifference then terminate. The Con-
vention of 1818 *, bears proof that the tears of Mr. Os-
* CONVENTION between his Britannic Majesty and the United
States of America, signed at London, October %0th, 1818.
His Majesty the King of the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland, and the United States of America, desirous to cement
the good understanding which happily subsists between them,
have for that purpose named their respective plenipotentiaries, that
is to say, his Majesty, on his part, has appointed the Right Hon.
EXPLANATION OP THE MAP, &C. vii
•waid were shed to little purpose. By that Convention land
was given away, which by the clearest evidence belonged to
Frederic- John- Robinson, Treasurer of his Majesty's Navyj and
President of the Committee of Privy Council for Trade and Plan-
tations ; and Henry Goulburn, Esq. one of his Majesty's under
Secretaries of State ; — and the President of the United States hag
appointed Albert Gallatin, their Envoy Extraordinary and Minis-
ter Plenipotentiary to the Court of France; and Richard Rush,
their Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary to the
Court of his Britannic Majesty; who, after having exchanged
their respective full powers, found to be in due and proper form,
have agreed to and concluded the following Articles :
ART. I. Whereas differences have arisen respecting the liberty
claimed by the United States, for the inhabitants thereof to take,
dry, and cure fish on certain coasts, bays, harbours, and creeks,
of his Britannic Majesty's' dominions in America, it is agreed
between the high contracting parties that the inhabitants of the said
United States shall have for ever, in common with the subjects of
his Britannic Majesty, the liberty to take fish of every kind on
that part of the southern coast of Newfoundland which extends
from Cape Ray to the Rameau Islands, on the western and northern
coast of Newfoundland, from the said Cape Ray to the Quipron
Islands, on the shores of the Magdalen Islands, and also on the
coasts, bays, harbours, and creeks, from Mount Joly, on the
southern coast of Labrador, to and through the streights of Belle-
isle, and thence northwardly, indefinitely along the coast, with-
out prejudice however to any of the exclusive rights of the Hud-
son's Bay Company. And that the American fishermen shall also
have liberty, for ever, to dry and cure fish in any of the unsettled
harbours and creeks of the southern part of the coast of New-
foundland hereabove described, and of the coast of Labrador ;
but so sooa as the same, or any portion thereof, shall be settled,
it shall not be lawful for the said fishermen to dry or cure fish at
such portion so settled, without previous agreement for such pur-
pose with the inhabitants, proprietors, or possessors of the
'1
Viii EXPLANATION OF THE MAP, &C.
this country and its subjects ; while a boundary was esta-
blished, in every respect improper. This will be understood,
ground. And the United States hereby renounce for ever any
liberty heretofore enjoyed or claimed by the inhabitants thereof,
to take, dry, or cure fish, on or within three marine miles of any
of the coasts, bays, creeks, or harbours, of his Britannic Ma-
jesty's dominions in America, not included within the above-
mentioned limits : provided, however, that the American fisher-
men shall be admitted to enter such bays or harbours, for the pur-
pose of shelter, and of repairing damages therein, of purchasing
wood, and of obtaining water, and for no other purpose what-
ever. But they shall be under such restrictions as may be neces-
sary, to prevent their taking, drying, or curing fish therein, or in
any other manner whatever abusing the privileges hereby reserved
to them.
ART. II. It is agreed, that a line drawn from the most north-
western point of the Lake of the Woods along the forty-ninth pa-
rallel of north latitude, or if the said point shall not be in the
forty-ninth parallel of north latitude, then that a line drawn from
the said point due north or south, as the case may be, until the
said line shall intersect the said parallel of north latitude, and
from the point of such intersection, due west along and with the
said parallel, shall be the line of demarcation between the terri-
tories of his Britannic Majesty, and those of the United States ;
and that the said line shall form the southern boundary of the said
territories of his Britannic Majesty, and the northern boun-
dary of the territories of the United States from the Lake of the
Woods to the Stony Mountains.
ART. III. It is agreed, that any country that may be
claimed by either party on the north-west coast of America,
westward of the Stony Mountains, shall, together with its har-
bours, bays, and creeks, and the navigation of all rivers within
the same, be free and open for the term of ten years from the date
of the signature of the present convention, to the vessels, citi-
zens, and subjects of the two powers : it being well understood
that this agreement is not to be construed to the prejudice of any
EXPLANATION OF THE MAP, &C. ix
by examining the little map of North-East America, at-
tached to volume second. The boundary line, running west
claim which either of the two high contracting parties may have
to any part of the said country, nor shall it be taken to affect the
claims of any other power or state to any part of the said coun-
try, the only object of the high contracting parties, in that re-
spect, being to prevent disputes and differences]] among them-
selves.
ART. IV. All the provisions of the Convention, " to regulate
the commerce between the territories of his Britannic Majesty and
of the United States," concluded at London on the 3d day of
July, in the year of our Lord 1815, with the exception of the
clause which limited its duration to four years, and excepting also,
so far as the same was affected by the declaration of his Ma-
jesty, respecting the island of St. Helena, are hereby extended
and continued in force for the term of ten years from the date of
the signature of the present Convention, in the same manner as
if all the provisions of the said Convention were herein specially
recited.
ART. V. WJiereas it was agreed by the first Article of the Treaty
of Ghent, that " all territory, places and possessions whatsoever,
taken by either party from the other during the war, or which may
be taken after the signing of this Treaty, excepting only the islands
thereinafter mentioned, shall be restored without delay, and
without causing any destruction, or carrying away any of the
artillery or other public property, originally captured in the said
forts or places, which shall remain therein upon the exchange of the
ratifications of this Treaty ; or any slaves, or other private
property ;" — and whereas, under the aforesaid articles, the United
States claim for their citizens, and as their private property, the
restitution of, or full compensation for, all slaves who, at the date of
the exchange of the ratifications of the said Treaty, were in any
territory, places, or possessions whatsoever, directed by the said
Treaty to be restored to the United States, but then still occupied
by the British Forces, whether such slaves were, at the date
aforesaid, on shore, or aboard any British Vessel, lying in waters,
X EXPLANATION OF THE MAP, &C.
from the Lake of the Woods, has given to America, very
improperly, a large portion of Lord Selkirk's estate,
which he purchased from the Hudson's Bay Company.
The boundary ought to have run along the height of
land between the head waters of the Mississippi and
the Red River. The height of land or water-shed, as
we call it in Scotland, is the natural, proper, and politic line
of division between countries ; and, of all things, rivers,
navigable to the sea, ought to be avoided as national
boundaries, for obvious reasons. The natural, proper, and
politic boundary between the United States and British
America, should have been that line which I have coloured :
bending from north to east, by Rome. I wish it to
be taken notice of, because I think it may still be
within the territory or jurisdiction of the United States ; and
whereas differences have arisen, whether by the true intent and
meaning of the aforesaid article of the Treaty of Ghent, the United
States are entitled to the restitution of, or full compensation for, all
or any slaves as above described, the high contracting parties hereby
agree to refer the said differences to some friendly Sovereign or
State, to be final and conclusive on all the matters referred to.
ART. VI. This Convention, when the same shall have been duly
ratified by his Britannic Majesty and the President of the United
States, by and with the advice and consent of their Senate, and the
respective ratifications mutually exchanged, shall be binding and
obligatory on his Majesty, and on the said United States ; and the
ratification shall be exchanged in six months from this date, or
sooner, if possible.
In witness whereof, the respective Plenipotentiaries have signed
the same, and have thereunto affixed the seal of their arms. Done
at London, this 20th day of October, 1818.
(L. S.) FRED. JOHN ROBINSON,
(L. S.) HENRY GOULBURN,
(L. S.) ALBERT GALLATIN,
L, S.) RICHARD RUSH.
EXPLANATION OP THE MAP, &C. xi
fixed upon as a boundary. North and west of that line the
natural outlet to the ocean is by Quebec. South and east
of it, by New York. A river is valuable, because of its fish ;
and the right of fishing may lead on to war between opposite
claimants. A river is valuable for navigation ; and this again
may give rise to endless disputes. The improvement of na-
vigation may require union from all who are to reap ad-
vantage ; but two nations cannot unite in the necessary work.
A citizen of the United States, farming on the south bank of
the St. Lawrence, sees that nature intended him to have his
produce conveyed to the ocean by the noble stream which
flows by his door ; but the British Government can say,
" You shall pay toll at Quebec." The design of nature is
thus thwarted, and one set of men are most cruelly sub-
jected to the caprice of another set. This matter has not
before, to my knowledge, been properly considered ; but
its importance is great indeed. Happily, no great portion
of America is dependent on British favour for access to
the ocean. The western and northern canals * are to be va-
lued for the sake of natural liberty : nay, I value them even,
for the liberty of Canada. The commerce of Canada will
presently have a choice of exits and entrances f — by Lake
Champlain — by Oswego — by Buffalo, she may communi-
cate with the ocean as well, and, in many instances, better
than by Quebec : even as a British subject I rejoice in this:
as a British subject I wish not our nation to enjoy a par-
ticle of arbitrary power ; and certain it is, his Majesty's
dominions do not hold a more loyal and patriotic subject
than myself.
Nobody will look five minutes to the miserable chequered
escutcheon hung up on the face of my map to exhibit the
mode of laying out land in Canada, without condemning such
mode. No thinking person will, for a moment, hesitate in
* See the Map.
Xii EXPLANATION OF THE MAP, &C.
saying that there should neither be crown nor clergy
reserves.
A map of Niagara district, with courses of the grand
canal, between Lakes Erie and Ontario, together with
plans illustrative of settlement in the wilderness of Cana-
da, are already engraved, and will appear in volume third,
with others.
•
TO
THE KING,
WHO CAN DO NO WRONG,'9
THIS
DEDICATED,
BT
HIS MOST DEVOTED SUBJECT,
ROBERT GOURLAY.
>/,1 31 '
;{ r, ?r f j * CT 3
CONTENTS
OP
VOLUME I.
PAGE
GENERAL INTRODUCTION, with Introductions to Sketches and
Township Reports i
SKETCHES
UPPER CANADA.
PAGE
Sketch I. HISTORY ............................... 1
II. Boundaries ............................ 16
III. Natural Divisions of the Country ........... 27
IV. Lakes, Rivers, Cataracts, Bays, and Harbours. 37
V. Civil Divisions .......................... 116
VI. Settlements ................... ......... 124
VII. Population ....... * ................... 139
VIII. Climate, Winds, &c ................... 140
IX. Water ................................ 145
X. Soil, Stones, Minerals, &c ................. 147
XI. Productions, natural and cultivated ........ 150
XII. Animals of the Forest .................. 157
XIII. Domestic Animals .................... 169
XIV. Birds 171
XVI CONTENTS.
PAGE
Sketch XV. Fishes 175
XVI. Amphibious Animals, Reptiles, and Insects . . 183
XVII. Constitution ; 189
XVIII. Provincial Parliament 190
XIX. Executive Government 204
XX. Judiciary 205
XXI. Money 215
XXII. Revenue and Taxes « 217
XXIII. Commerce 224
XXIV. Militia 229
XXV. Religion, and Ecclesiastic Institutions .... 231
XXVI. Profession and Practice of Law 234
XXVII. Physic and Surgery 235
XXVIII. Trades, and Apprenticeships 236
XXIX. Imprisonment for Debt, Insolvent Laws,
and Liability of Land for Debt 238
XXX. Gradual Abolition of Slavery 240
XXXI. Price of Land, and Encouragement to
Settlers ..., 241
XXXII. State of Learning 244
XXXIII. Character, Manners and Customs of the
Inhabitants ., 247
APPENDIX to SKETCHES 247
(ma
CONTENTS. XYH
TOWNSHIP REPORTS
OF
UPPER CANADA.
PAGE
QUERIES .... 270
NOTES 271
WESTERN DISTRICT.
PAGE
1. Sandwich 275
2. Maiden . . . *. 281
3. Raleigh ...» ^ '284
4. Dover, East and West, Chatham, Camden, Orford,
Howard and Harwich 291
Summary of Population, &c 298
Notes, explanatory, continued from p. 27 3 300
LONDON DISTRICT.
1. Delaware, Westminster, and Dorchester » • .. 302
Statistical Table 306
2. Oxford 308
3. Blenheim, and the first Concession of Burford 310
4. Burford 311
5. Windham 314
6. Townsend 318
7. Walpole and Rainham 320
8. Woodhouse 322
9. Charlotteville 323
10. Walsingham 327
11. Middleton , 329
12. Norwich 331
Statistical Table 336
VOL. 1. b
XV111 CONTENTS.
PAGE
13. Bayham • 338
14. Malahide 340
15. Yarmouth 342
16. Southwold 344
17. Dunwicli 346
18. Aldborough 349
Statistical Tables 352. 354
Summary of Population, &c 356
GORE DISTRICT.
1. Trafalgar 358
2. Nelson 365
3. Wellington Square 368
4. East Flamboro' 369
5. West Flamboro' and Beverly.... 371
6. Nichol 375
7. Waterloo 382
8. Dumfries 383
9. Haldimand 384
10. Ancaster 388
11. Barton 394
12. Saltfleet e 396
Statistical Tables 402. 404
Summary of Population, &c 405
NIAGARA DISTRICT.
1. Humberston 407
2. Bertie 409
3. Willoughby 412
4. Stamford 416
5. Grantham 421
6. Louth 425
7. Grimsby, first and second Report , 429, 430
8. Pelham 441
9. Thorold 445
10. Crowland 446
CONTENTS. XIX
PAGE
11. Wainfleet 449
12. Canboro' and Caistor . . . 0 452
Summary of Population, &c 454
Statistical Table . . 456
THE HOME DISTRICT.
(No Report received.) 458
NEWCASTLE DISTRICT.
Haldimand 467
Summary of Population, &c 468
MIDLAND DISTRICT.
1 . Kingston, first and second Report 470. 477
2. Ernest-Town, including Amherst Island 482
3. Adolphus-Town .. 486
4. Sophiasburg , . 486
5. Hallowell 487
6. Thurlow 489
General Report 492
Summary of Population, &c. &c 495
JOHNSTOWN DISTRICT.
1. Wolford , 498
2. Landsdown . . . . , 502
3. Elizabeth-Town, 508; Yonge, 512; Landsdown,
513; Leeds, 516; Kitley, 517} Bastard, 518;
and South Crosby 518
Summary of Population, &c 520
Letter to the Editor of British Newspapers 52*
Statistical Tables 524. 52fJ
Proclamation by the Authority of his Royal Highness the
Prince Regent, encouraging Settlers in Canada . . 528
Remarks on do, Sec, 539
b 2-
XX CONTENTS.
EASTERN DISTRICT.
PACK
Charlottenburgh 559
Summary of Population, &c 565
Draught of an Address to the Prince Regent 571
OTTAWA DISTRICT. 580
LOWER CANADA.
Seigniory of New Longeuil 584
Soulange , 586
Vaudreuil 589
Rigaud 591
Isle Perrot \. 592
Montreal Island 592
Isle Jesus 598
Terrebonne 598
Mille Isles 600
Lac des deux Montagnes 600
Argenteuil •••• .... 602
La Petite Nation 603
Township of Chatham 604
Wentworth 605
Grenville 605
Lochabcr (Suffolk) 605
Buckingham 606
Templeton 606
Hull ... 607
Eardley and Onslow 608
Newton v... 609
Statistical Table 611
General Summary, &c 612
Opinions as to what retards the Improvement of the Pro-
vince ,.,.,,., , , 1 1 * • • • 1 1 » t . 623
ERRATA.
Page 221, la*t line of the second Table, for 16,847|, read 16,666f,
274, line 20,/or quality, read quantity.
274, line 2 and elsewhere, for straight, read strait.
278, line 22, for 20, read 40.
— — 287, line 23, for quarter, read acre.
296, last line of the Table, for 114, read 112.
354, last line of Table, column 8, insert 2.
— 406, line 4, for upwards of 1,900, read 1,829, and dele the whole of
line 5 ;— line 6, for 1,930, read 1,859 j— line 8, for 8,614,
read 8,543.
— 456, fourth column of Totals, for 8,398, read 8,498.
457, last line bnt one, for 10, read 100.
— . 525, line 1, for 13 months, read 12 months.
SKETCHES
UPPER CANADA
WRITTBjr BT
AN INHABITANT.
SKETCHES
UPPER CANADA.
SKETCH I.
HISTORY.
Discovery of Canada — St. Lawrence — Quebec set-
tled — Montreal — Iroquois — Fort Frontenac —
Progress of French Settlements — Conquest of
Canada — Proclamation — Quebec Act — American
Loyalists — Upper Canada settled — U. E. List —
Division of the Province — Lieutenant Governors,
Simcoe, Hunter, and Gore.
OOLUMBUS having discovered the continent,
afterwards named America, and taken possession of
a large portion of it for Ferdinand and Isabella of
Spain, and Cabot having acquired for Henry VIL
of England, a similar title to a considerable part
of North America, Francis I. king of France,
became desirous of participating in the acquisition
of the new world.
For that purpose he fitted out Verazani, who
made two voyages of discovery, and attempted a
2 SKETCHES OF
third, but perished in the attempt without effecting
the projected establishment of a colony.
The project of colonization seems to have been
thereupon abandoned by the court of France for
some years.
In 1534, however, Jacques Cartier sailed, under
a royal commission, from St. Maloes to Newfound-
land, entered the bay of Chaleurs, coasted a great
part of the gulf, and took formal possession of the
adjacent country in the name of his most Christian
Majesty.
On the report of Carrier's voyage, he was com-
missioned to establish a French colony in the coun-
try thus acquired. Accordingly, he sailed with
three vessels, which, after suffering severely in a
storm, entered the gulf on the 10th of August,
1535, being the fast day of St. Laurent. In com-
pliment to the Saint of the day, Cartier named the
bay in which they anchored, St. Lawrence, a name
soon afterwards applied to the gulf, and thence
extended to the great river, which, before, had no
other appellation than the river of Canada. It was
not at first uniformly stiled the St. Lawrence,
higher up than the island of Montreal. Even so
late as the treaty of peace, in 1783, in the descrip-
tion of the boundary line between the United States
and Canada, from the 45th degree of latitude to the
lake, it was described as the river Iroquois or Cata-
racqui ; but it is now commonly known by the name
of the St. Lawrence, through its whole extent,
from the gulf up to the outlet of Ontario. Be-
tween that lake and Erie, thirty-three miles, it is
UPPER CANADA. 3
denominated the Niagara river. From lake Erie to
lake Sinclair, twenty-seven miles, it is called De-
troit, that is the Strait, without any distinctive
appellation. From lake Sinclair to lake Huron it
is the river Sinclair. From Huron to Superior,
about forty miles, it is the strait of St. Marie ; and
from Huron, southward to Michigan, fifteen miles,
it is the Strait of Michilimackinac. A small part
only of this vast river was explored by Cartier.
The efforts of the French to colonize Canada were
not successful, until Champlain, at the head of a
small colony, in 1608, twelve years before the
English Puritans arrived at Plymouth, in New
England, made a settlement at Quebec, on the
north side of the St. Lawrence, in latitude 46°, 48',
north, and longitude 71° 12' west.
Although his establishment was never discon-
tinued, it encountered so many embarrassments,
and was so feebly supported, that, in 1622, the
whole little colony contained only fifty persons.
In 1629 it was surrendered to the English, but was
restored by treaty in 1632.
Montreal was settled thirty years after Quebec.
The island was granted for the support of the order
of Sulpicins, a religions order of Catholics, which
was established there. The city of Montreal is
situated on the south side of the island, in latitude
45°, 33' north, and longitude 73°, 37' west.
At an early period, the French colonists impru-
dently engaged as allies, or rather protectors, of the
Hurons and Algonquins, tribes of Indians inhabit-
ing the countries north-westerly of the St. Law-
B2
4 SKETCHES OF
rence; and, of course, were involved in hostilities
with their common enemy, the Iroquois, or Five
Nations, whose residence was on the other side of the
river and lake, principally in the territory now
composing the western region of the State of New
York. This warlike confederacy, the most power-
ful and politic of all the aboriginal nations, spread
terror and desolation, from the river Sorel, then
termed the Iroquois, to the Illinois, a distance of
a thousand miles. More than a hundred years,
with some short intermissions, they maintained
cruel and destructive wars against the French, and
a part of them finally assisted the English in con-
quering Canada.
To guard against such formidable enemies, the
French, under Governor Frontenac, in 1672, built
Fort Frontenac, at Cataracqui, on the easterly end
of lake Ontario, where Kingston now stands.
A few years afterwards, they erected fort Niagara,
on the eastern side of the strait of that name.
They also built two vessels on lake Ontario, and
armed them for the purpose of operating against
the Indians.
But in 1689, the Iroquois made such an impres-
sion upon the French colony, that they blew up the
two forts, burned their armed vessels on the lake,
and retired down the river. These fortifications,
however, were afterwards rebuilt.
They had also a fort on the island, in the St.
Lawrence, near Osweigatchie ; a garrison and vil-
lage at Detroit; and a fort and trading post at
Michilimackinac .
, UPPER CANADA. 5
Except these military stations, and some fac-
tories and trading1 houses further north west, they
formed no settlements in Upper Canada during
the century and a half of their possession of the
country.
They did, indeed, pass over to the Ohio, the
Illinois, and the Mississippi, and descending those
rivers to Louisiana, they planted colonies in several
places ; but those colonial establishments languished
and decayed ; even in Lower Canada, their settle-
ments, instead of spreading over the country, were
condensed into comparatively narrow limits.
A distinguished French traveller (Volney) says,
the general decay of the French Settlements, on the
frontiers of Louisiana, and even Canada, compared
with the equally general increase of the American,
was to him a subject of frequent meditation, the
result of which was, that the difference was to be
ascribed to habit and national character, occasioned
by their systems of education, and the nature of
their governments.
According to him, " the American settler sedately
forms a plan of managing a farm. He does not rise
early; but, when he has once risen, he spends the
day in an uninterrupted series of useful labours. If
the weather be fair he goes out, ploughs, fells trees,
makes fences, or the like : if it be wet, he takes an
inventory of the contents of his house, barn, and
stables, repair^ the doors, windows, or locks, drives
nails, makes chairs or tables, and is constantly em-
ployed in rendering his habitation secure, conve-
nient, and neat. With these dispositions, he will
6 SKETCHES OF
sell his farm, if an opportunity offer, and retire
into the woods thirty or forty miles to form a new
settlement."
"The French settler, on the contrary, rises early
in the morning, consults his wife, takes his gun,
goes a shooting, or to chat with some neighbour.
At other times he stays at home, and spends the day
in talking. Neighbours pay and return visits; for
visiting and talking are so indispensably necessary
to a Frenchman, from habit, that throughout the
whole frontier of Canada and Louisiana, there is
not a settler of that nation to be found, whose house
is not in sight of some other."
" Having several times," he observes, "questioned
the frontier Canadians respecting the distances of
times and places, I have found that, in general,
they had no clear and precise ideas; that they
received sensations without reflecting on them ; in
short that they knew not how to make any calcula-
tion, that was ever so little complicated. They
would say to me, from this place to that, is one or
two pipes of tobacco; you can or you cannot reach it
between sunrise and sunset, or the like. But
there is not a single American settler who does not
give, with precision, the number of miles, or hours,
and weights and measures, in feet or yards, pounds
or gallons ; and who does not, very readily, make
a calculation, consisting of several actual and con-
tingent elements."
He adds, " The French often blame, as immoral,
the readiness with which an American sells and
quits the estate on which he was born, or which he
UPPER CANADA. 7
has purchased or improved by his own labour, to go
and fix himself in another. But if we trace this
idea to its source, we shall discover, that it has
been invented by the rulers, and kept up by the
laws of a people originally in a state of slavery.
To bind men to the soil by the prejudices of affection,
was, at all times, the secret or avowed object of a
policy afraid of losing its prey. Now, as it was
for the purpose of breaking their chains, both civil
and religious, that the Americans emigrated, in the
first instance, it is not at all surprising that emigra-
tion is become to them an habitual want, and still
has, in their eyes, the charm of being an exertion
of their liberty."
How nearly this portrait of the common Canadian
French, drawn by the hand of a Frenchman, re-
sembles the original, I shall not examine. There
are but few of them, comparatively, in this province ;
and the brevity of this Historical Sketch forbids a
more particular attention to the Lower Province,
where there are many French gentlemen of intelli-
gence and respectability.
In the prosecution of various wars between the
English and the French, the former made several
unsuccessful attempts to conquer Canada ; and, in
the war of 1756, under the vigorous and brilliant
administration of Mr. Pitt, a grand effort for that
purpose was finally crowned with success. In
1759 Niagara surrendered to Sir William Johnson.
General Amherst reduced Ticonderago and Crown
Point. The memorable battl e, fought on the heights
ef Abraham, and immortalized by the deaths of the
8 SKETCHES OF
rival Generals in chief, Wolfe and Montcalm, was
followed by the surrender of Quebec, the key of
Canada and the Gibraltar of America. In the
campaign of 1760, General Amherst met with no
resistance in entering Oswego, a fort situated at
the mouth of a river of that name, on the southern
borders of lake Ontario, nearly opposite to Frontenac,
formerly belonging to the English ; but possessed,
for the last four years, by the- French; and having,
on his passage down the river, taken a French Post,
on an island near Osweigatchie, he proceeded to
Montreal, obtained possession of that place by
capitulation, and thus completed the conquest of
Canada, and thereby relieved the colonists of New
England from the danger of French and Indian
invasion, acquired an immense territory to the
crown, and transferred to British hands a fur trade
of incalculable value.
Favourable terms were granted to the French
Canadians, who were secured in the enjoyment of
their property and religion.
This stipulation was inserted in the fourth article
of the treaty, signed at Paris in February, 1763.
A Royal Proclamation was issued in October of
the same year, declaring the limits of the Province,
which included a part only of what is now Upper
Canada, and prescribing a form of government by
a Governor and Council.
The same Proclamation provided for granting to
the reduced officers and disbanded soldiers, certain
portions of the waste lands of the crown, a provision,
which, at the close of the Revolutionary war, was
UPPER CANADA. 9
referred to as a precedent for the quantum of lands
to be then granted.
The mode of government thus prescribed by pro-
clamation, continued ten years.
By an act of the British Parliament, passed in
1774, the limits of the province of Quebec were
extended, so as to comprehend all Upper Canada,
and even the territory, now within the United
States, north-west of the Ohio to the Mississippi :
the Governor with a Council, without an Assembly,
was vested with legislative powers: the Catholic
religion was legalized, and the tithes and ecclesi-
astical rig'hts of the Catholic priests were gua-
ranteed: the English criminal law .was established ;
but the French laws were declared to be the rule
of decision, in cases of property and civil rights.
Objections were raised in Parliament against
some of the principles of this bill, particularly the
extension of the province, the want of a legislative
assembly, the adoption of French laws, trials with-
out jury, and the establishment, as it was called,
of the Catholic religion, — a religion against which
the laws of England had guarded by solemn oaths
and declarations, and which was the subject of civil
disabilities, operating severely upon the Catholics
of Ireland.
Notwithstanding those objections it passed into a
law, and remained in force until 1791.
The American Congress inserted the Quebec act
in their list of parliamentary grievances ; and, in
their addresses to the Colonists and the Canadians,
touched upon different parts of it. Its provision,
10 SKETCHES OF
in favour of the Catholics and their priests, was
one of the means of engaging- the Protestant
American clergy, in support of the Revolution.
In the progress of that revolutionary contest,
which terminated in the dismemberment of the
British empire and the independence of the United
States, particularly on the capture of General Bur-
goyne, many of the Americans who adhered to the
royal cause removed into Canada with their fami-
lies. Upon the evacuation of New York, at the
close of the war, a still greater number followed.
A large proportion of them had served in the
army, and were now disbanded and left without
employment. Some had lost their estates by con-
fiscation ; and they were generally destitute and
dependent.
To reward, therefore, their loyalty, to relieve
their present wants, and furnish them with means
of future subsistence, and at the same time to settle
a fertile but vacant territory, and enlarge the po-
pulation and strength of the empire, the British
government determined upon making liberal
assignments of land in Upper Canada, as in Nova
Scotia and New Brunswick, to the American loyal-
ists. The second battalion of the 84th regiment,
having been raised in America, was now disband-
ed here, and a few British and German soldiers
discharged in this country. This measure was re-
commended by justice, humanity, and sound policy;
and has been happily crowned with success. No
government ever conducted, on any occasion, with
more liberal justice towards its subjects, than the
UPPER CANADA. 11
British government did to the loyalists of the revo-
lution; and never was public liberality productive
of more beneficial effects.
The disbanded officers and soldiers of the 84th
regiment, in consequence of a promise made in
their beating orders, claimed the same proportions
of lands as had been granted at the peace of 1763.
Their claim was admitted. The loyalists were
ultimately put upon the same footing, and conse-
quently were allowed at the rate of five thousand
acres for a field officer, three thousand for a cap-
tain, two thousand for a subaltern, and two hun-
dred for a private soldier*. These grants were di-
rected to be free from every expense.
The range of land on the St. Lawrence, from
the highest French settlement near the lake St.
Francis, up to Ontario, and thence along that lake
to and round the bay of Quinte, was accordingly
divided into townships, and subdivided into con-
cessions and lots. The form of their location and
survey, being connected with the geographical de-
scription of the province, will be sketched under
that head.
These townships were numbered, but not named
until several years afterwards. Of the numbers
there were two series : one including the town-
ships on the river below Kingston, the other con-
taining those from Kingston inclusively, westward
to the head of the bay. The original settlers
* In 1798, by the royal instructions to Gen. Hunter, the al-
lowance was limited to a quantity from 200 to 1200 acres.
12 SKETCHES OF
being accustomed to describe them by their re-
spective numbers, as First town, Second town, &c.
retained the custom, after distinct names were
leg-ally appropriated by proclamation ; and, through
the force of habit, still adhere to that inconvenient
mode of description.
In the summer of 1784, they took possession of
the allotted townships, and thus settled at once, a
territory of a hundred and fifty miles extent on the
river and lake.
The same season the loyalists, composing Cutlery
rangers, and those attached to the Indian depart-
ment, had lands assigned to them, on the same prin-
ciples, near Niagara on the west side of the river,
and south side of lake Ontario, and also in the
neighbourhood of Detroit, on the east side of the
strait ; and they, likewise, entered upon their ap-
propriated lands.
These may be considered the first effective settle-
ments of Upper Canada, which was then a part of
the province of Quebec.
4 The new settlers were accommodated with farm-
ing utensils and building materials, and, for the
two first years, were supplied with provisions and
some clothing, at the national expense. They were
poor in consequence of the revolutionary war.
Most of them had lived several of the last years in
camp, a mode of life not very favourable to in-
dustry ; but having been bred to agriculture, they,
in general, soon resumed their early agricultural
habits, cleared and cultivated their farms with la-
borious perseverance, and literally converted a
UPPER CANADA. 13
wilderness into fruitful fields. No other people on
earth are so well formed to succeed in new settle-
ments as the Anglo-American farmers, commonly
denominated Yankees.
" To put a mark of honour," as it was expressed
in the Orders of Council, " upon the families who
had adhered to the unity of the empire, and joined
the royal standard in America, before the treaty of
separation in the year 1783," a list of such persons
was directed, in 1789, to be made out and returned,
" to the end that their posterity might be discrimi-
nated from the then future settlers." From the
initials of two emphatic words, the unity of the em-
pire, it was styled the U. E. list ; and they whose
names were entered on it were distinguished as U.
E. loyalists, a distinction of some consequence; for,
in addition to the provision of such loyalists them-
selves, it was declared that their children, as well
those born thereafter, as those already born, should,
upon arriving at the age of twenty-one years, and
females upon their marriage within that age, be
entitled to grants of two hundred acres each, free
from all expense. In pursuance of that declaration
these gratuitous grants continue to be made.
Thousands of acres are thus granted every year.
As the sons and daughters of those whose names are
on the U. E. list become of age, they petition the
lieutenant-governor, in council, stating the facts,
and verifying them by their own oath, and the
affidavit of one witness, and upon such petitions
obtain orders for the land, which they locate in
14 SKETCHES OP
some of the new townships, and then take out their
patents without cost*.
To encourage the further population of the pro-
vince, a lot of two hundred acres was allowed to
every settler, upon condition of actual settlement,
and payment of the expense of surveying1 and fees
of office, amounting in the whole to a little less than
thirty-eight dollars.
In 1791 Canada was divided into two provinces,
styled Upper Canada and Lower Canada ; the one
containing all the French seignories, the other, all
the newly settled townships.
General Simcoe was appointed the first lieute-
nant-governor of Upper Canada. He arrived in
1792, and took his residence at Newark, since
named Niagara, where the first parliament was
called, and held five successive sessions. The seat
of government was then removed to York, on the
north side of the lake, nearly opposite to Niagara,
where a settlement had been made, and accommo-
dations were provided.
It was a favourite object of Governor Simcoe 's
administration to promote the settling of the pro-
vince. For that purpose he made liberal grants of
land to many settlers from the States.
* In February, 1816, an order was adopted, requiring, in
addition to the former requisites, a certificate from the president
of the sessions and clerk of the peace, that the U. E. loyalist, if
living, retained his loyalty, and did his duty during the late war,
and a similar certificate respecting the applicant, if a son, and in
case of a daughter, respecting her husband, if she is married.
UPPER CANADA. 15
General Simcoe being transferred to another
station, the administration devolved upon the Hon.
Peter Russell, president of the council. In 1798,
General Hunter was appointed lieutenant-governor,
and, arriving in the province the next year, exer-
cised the office six years. After a short admini-
stration under the Hon. Alexander Grant, as pre-
sident, his Excellency Francis Gore, Esq. was ap-
pointed lieutenant-governor, and has continued
in office to the present time. In 1811 he went
home to England, and did not return until Sep-
tember, 1815. In his absence the civil admini-
stration was committed successively to the senior
military officer in the province for the time being.
The first of these successive presidents was
Major-General Sir Isaac Brock, who presided at
the session of parliament in the winter of 1812,
and the extra session in the summer of the same
year. Upon his death, in October, 1812, the ad-
ministration devolved upon Major-General Sir
Roger Hale Sheaffe, who presided at the session of
1813, and was succeeded by Major-General Francis
De Rottenburg. During his presidency General
De Rottenburg issued a proclamation, declaring
martial law to be in force throughout the province,
so far as respected the impressment of provisions
and forage for the army. The preamble stated the
necessity of the measure ; but the execution of it
excited considerable sensibility in some districts.
It was revoked by his successor Lieut.-General Sir
Gordon Drummond, and at the next session of par-
liament the house of representatives resolved that
1
16 SKETCHES OF
this proclamation of martial law was unconstitu-
tional and subversive of law and liberty, and
ordered the resolution to be entered on their
journal, as a solemn protest against the precedent.
The Court of King's Bench have, since, given a
similar decision. Upon the recal of Sir George
Prevost, governor-general of the British North
American provinces, General Drummond having
presided at two sessions of the legislature of Upper
Canada, was appointed administrator in chief of
the two Canadas, and was succeeded in the admi-
nistration of this province by Lieutenant-General
Sir George Murray, who was styled Provincial
Lieutenant-Governor. When he returned to Eu-
rope Major-General Sir Frederic Phillips Robinson
succeeded, and continued in administration until
the arrival of Governor Gore.
The further progress and present state of the
settlements in the province, will be noticed in a
subsequent Sketch.
SKETCH I!.
'* BOUNDARIES.
Line of Division from Lower Canada — Hudson's
Say — United States — Latitude and Longitude
of the Source of the Mississippi and the North
UPPER CANADA. 17
West Point of the Lake of the Woods — Western
Limits indefinite — Discoveries of M'Kenzie, and
Lewis and Clarke — British Posts with the United
States.
IN sketching" the Geography of the province,
the first object is to ascertain its Boundaries.
It is bounded north easterly by Lower Canada,
from the St. Lawrence to the Hudson's Bay :
northerly by that territory : south easterly by the
United States. Its western limits are unknown.
On the East and North the boundary line is
more particularly described as follows, in the
Royal Proclamation of November 18th, 1791,
issued in pursuance of the Act of Parliament of the
same year, dividing- the province of Quebec into
the provinces of Upper and Lower Canada : " To
commence at a stone boundary on the north bank
of the lake St. Francis, at the cove west of Pointe
au Bodet, in the limit between the township of
Lancaster, and the Seigniory of New Longueil,
running along the said limit, in the direction of
north 34 degrees west, to the westernmost angle of
the said Seigniory of New Longueil ; thence along
the north western boundary of the Seigniory of
Vaudreuil, running north '25 degrees east, until it
strikes the Ottawa river ; to ascend the said river into
the lake Tomescanning j and from the head of the
said lake, by a line drawn due north, until it strikes
the boundary line of Hudson's Bay, including all the
territory to the westward and southward of the
c
18 SKETCHES OF
said line, to the utmost extent of the country com-
monly called or known by the name of Canada."
By the treaty of Utrecht, in 1713, the forty-ninth
parallel of latitude, was settled to be the division
between the French colony of New France, and the
English territory of the Hudson's Bay Company;
and it is, o£ course, the boundary of the province
of Upper Canada on the north*.
Its south easterly boundary is defined in the
treaty of peace, between Great Britain and the
United States, in 1783, and is as follows; the forty-
fifth degree of north latitude, until it strikes the
St. Lawrence, which is near the Indian village of
St. Regis, a little above the lake St. Francis ; thence
in the middle of that river, up to lake Ontario,
along the middle of that lake, of the river Niagara,
of lake Erie, Detroit, lake Sinclair, the river
Sinclair, lake Huron, the strait of St. Marie, lake
Superior, (passing north of Isles Royal and Philli-
peaux,) to the Long lake, then to the lake of the
Woods, thence through the said lake to the north
westernmost point thereof, and thence due west to
the Mississippi.
* As a vast north western region, resorted to by Indian traders,
however fairly included within provincial limits, was in fact with-
out the actual jurisdiction of any provincial government; a statute
was passed in the British Parliament, in the year 1803, for the
prevention and punishment of crimes in those Indian territories,
by the appointment of Justices of the Peace, with authority to ap-
prehend criminals and send them to Lower Canada for trial. Under
that statute, several persons have been sent to Montreal, and there
tried for acts committed in the distant Indian territories.
UPPER CANADA. 19
Doubts having arisen what was the middle of the
St. Lawrence, and said lakes and intervening
water communication, and whether certain islands,
lying" in the same, were within the dominions of
his Britannic Majesty, or of the United States, it
was ordered in the treaty of Ghent, 1814, that
Commissioners should be appointed to decide these
doubts.
In 1798, it was ascertained by Mr. Thompson,
Astronomer to the North West Company, who was
sent expressly for the purpose of ascertaining it, that
the north west point of the lake of the Woods is in lat.
49° 37' north, and long. 94° 31' west, and the
northernmost sources of the Mississippi are in lat. 47*
38' north, and long. 95° 6' west, so that the lines
described by the Treaty, did not meet by almost
two degrees.
To supply this defect, the Governments of Great
Britain and the United States, by an explanatory
or supplemental convention, in 1803, agreed that
as the Mississippi was found not to rise so far north
as had been supposed, the boundary should be a
line drawn from the source of the Mississippi,
directly to the north west point of the lake of the
Woods. The north west angle, therefore, of the
original territory of the United States, was thus
defined, to be in lat. 49° 37', and long. 95° 6';
that is, 35' due west of the north western
point of the lake of the Woods. That point is a
permanent, and now well-known boundary; but
from lake Superior to the lake of the Woods, the
dividing* line is not ascertained. Mr. M'Kenzi*
c 2
20 SKETCHES OF
thinks it ought to be drawn to the mouth of the
river St. Louis, near the western extremity of lake
Superior, and up that river to its source ; thence to
the waters of the Rainy lake ; which is said to be
the common route of the Indians to the lake of the
Woods; and, to remove a specious objection, he
says, there is no such Long- lake, as the treaty sup-
poses. The line thus contended for, by him, would
save to the North West Company the Grand Portage,
and several other trading posts, which the United
States consider to be within their limits. The late
treaty of peace, signed at Ghent, has provided for
settling this dispute, which, indeed, is more imme-
diately interesting to the Indian traders, than to
the two nations at large. The provision is, that
the Commissioners for deciding the line through
the middle of the lakes, and their water communi-
cations, up to lake Superior, shall also determine
and fix the boundary line, thence to the most north
western point of the lake of the Woods, according
to the true intent of the treaty of 1783.
After the Convention of 1803, the United States
purchased Louisiana. Whether the new territory
thus acquired by them, reaches northward to the
latitude of the north western point of the lake of
the Woods, how far it spreads westward, and where
the true line of division between it and Canada
will fall, are questions remaining to be determined
at some future period, when the determination shall
become an object of sufficient consequence, to
attract the attention of the respective governments.
That period will, probably, not be very remote, if
we may judge from the progress of past events.
UPPER CANADA. 21
In 1793, Mr. M'Kenzie, one of the British North
West Company, penetrated through the interior of
the continent, to the Pacific Ocean, in lat. 52* 21',
and long. 128° 2', and took possession, in the name
of his Britannic Majesty. Though he was not in
the immediate service of the Crown, his expedition
appears to be sanctioned by the Ministry.
In the years 1804, 5, and 6, Captains Lewis and
Clarke, with an exploring party in the service of the
United States, ascended the Missouri, 3096 miles,
to its source in the rocky mountains, on the ridge
dividing the waters of the Atlantic and the Pacific;
and at the distance of three quarters of a mile, they
found a branch of the Columbia, which they fol-
lowed down to the main stream, and thence to the
Pacific, in lat. 46° 19' north, and long. 123° 26'
west, about 500 miles, according to the line of the
coast, south easterly from Mr. M*Kenzie's station.
Their whole route, from the confluence of the
Missouri with the Mississippi, to the mouth of the
Columbia, was 4133 miles. Of all the country thus
explored, Lewis and Clarke took formal possession,
in the name of the United States. As they acted
under the instruction of the President, authorized
by Congress, their act was the act of their govern-
ment, and amounts to a public claim of that coun-
try, as belonging to the United States.
Thus Great Britain and the United States, claim
contiguous territories, extending across the conti-
nent, from the Atlantic to the Pacific.
At the commencement of the late war, a company
of citizens of the United States, had established a
22 SKETCHES OF
trading post at the mouth of the Columbia. In the
course of the war, their establishment was broken
up by a British force. This may perhaps be viewed
as an act of public hostilities, rather than the
assertion of an interfering1 territorial claim. But
the collisions of Indian traders will, probably, re-
quire some national adjustment of the boundary
line, especially if the subjects of either nation
should be interdicted from trading with the Indians,
within the limits of the other.
The convention of 1803 was not ratified; and
in the late negociation at Ghent, it appears not to
have been an object with the government of the
United States, to provide for its ratification, and
the ascertainment of the line, from the source of
the Mississippi due north, to the latitude of the
north west point of the lake of the Woods. That
line seems to be considered of little or no import-
ance, since, by the acquisition of Louisiana, the
territory on the west as well as the east of it, now
belongs to the United States.
By insisting on the north westernmost point of
the lake of the Woods, as the territorial limit, at
the western extremity of the divisional line, so far
as it is settled, it seems probable that the govern-
ment of the United States understand that parallel
of latitude to be the line of division further west-
ward, and will claim the jurisdiction accordingly,
unless some other line shall be fixed by treaty.
At the date of the Treaty in 1783, the British
forts composing their frontier cordon, were at
Osweigatchie (now Ogdensburgh), Carlton Island,
UPPER CANADA. 23
Oswego, Niagara, Erie, Detroit, and Michilimack-
inac; all of them, except fort Erie, being1 on the
American side of the line established by the Treaty.
For agreeing to that line, the ministry have, for
this reason, been censured, particularly by the
writer of General Simcoe's Life, as inattentive to
the interests of Canada. But the censure appears
unjust. The middle of the great water communi-
cation, was the place of division, marked out by the
God of nature ; and if permanence, or tranquillity
of possession, is an object of national importance,
such natural boundaries seem to be far preferable to
any artificial lines, however adapted to temporary
convenience*.
By the terms of the Treaty, those British posts,
which fell within the United States, were to be
relinquished in a reasonable period. They were,
however, retained on the ground of infractions of
the treaty, on the part of the United States. But
in consequence of the subsequent treaty of 1794,
the garrisons were withdrawn.
Carlton Island, on which one of them was situ-
* A curious mistake, as to the boundary between the United
States and Lower Canada, was discovered in 1818, by the com-
missioners appointed to settle the line between the two countries.
Rous's Point, an important military station on lake Champlain,
had been understood to be south of latitude 45°. With this im-
pression, the American government, since the late war, went to
great expense in erecting fortifications upon it, which would have
commanded the entrance into the lake from the British side. Upon,
investigation, it appeared that Rous's Point was half a mile north
of latitude 45°, and of course has, with its fortifications, become
British property. — R. G.
24 SKETCHES 01'
ated, is in the St. Lawrence, a small distance below
Kingston, on the American side of the ship chan-
nel, which it is believed passes between it and
Wolfe Island *. The fortification was dismantled,
the barracks destroyed, and the troops removed
across the river ; but, as the United States had not
received the possession of the island, a corporal's
guard from the garrison at Kingston, was stationed
there until the late war. The chimneys of the old
barracks are still standing.
The garrison at Niagara was placed at fort
George, on the British side of the river, in the
township of Niagara.
From Detroit, the military force was brought
over to Amherstburgh, in the township of Maiden, a
few miles below Detroit, on the eastern side of the
strait, near the head of lake Erie. The , civil and
commercial establishments were transferred to
Sandwich, almost opposite, but a little below the
old town of Detroit.
The garrison of Michilimackinac was removed
about forty miles northward to the island of St.
Joseph, in the north western corner of lake Huron,
near the strait of St. Marie. The fort originally
built by the French, and afterwards possessed by
* Mr. Heriot supposes that the line of division between the
United States and Upper Canada, passes through Grand Isle, now
called Wolfe Island ; upon the principle, I presume, that the mid-
dle of the river, in the sense of the treaty, means, not the channel,
but literally the middle, between the banks of the river. Upon
that construction, the greatest part of this island belongs to the
United States.
UPPER CANADA. 25
the English, was upon a point of the main land, on
the easterly side of the communication between
lakes Huron and Michigan; but the United States
have placed their garrison six miles north east of
the old fortification, on a small barren island,
which, from its resemblance to the shape of a tor-
toise, called in the Chippawa tongue Michilimac-
kinac, received that Indian name, and communi-
cated it to the water by which it was surrounded.
Mr. Heriot, however, deduces its name from the
Indian word " Imakinakos," meaning spirits, of
which this island was supposed to be the place of
residence.
Michilimackinac is in lat. 45° 54' north. St.
Joseph is in lat. 46° 30' north.
These were at the commencement of the late war
the two westernmost posts maintained by Great
Britain and the United States, in this country,
situated on two islands in the same lake.
One of the earliest operations of the late war was
the capture of Michilimackinac, by a company of
British troops from St. Joseph, commanded by
Captain Roberts, aided by the North West Com-
pany Traders and their engagees, and the neigh-
bouring Indians. Lieutenant Hanks surrendered
the fort by capitulation, July 17, 1812, just a
month after the declaration of war. This successful
expedition is one among many proofs of the as-
cendancy which is acquired over Indians by the
traders who intermix with them, and supply them
with their favourite articles of merchandise. It
had no small influence in determining General Hull
26 SKETCHES OF
to surrender his army and territory to General
Brock.
In May, 1814, Lieutenant-Colonel M'Dowall ar-
rived at Michilimackinac, with supplies and a
reinforcement, having made his way from the east
end of lake Huron in boats. He put the fort into
a formidable state of defence. The American fleet
having- in the preceding September obtained the
command of lake Erie, a squadron of their vessels
from that lake sailed up through the lake and river
Sinclair into lake Huron, with a detachment of
troops under Lieutenant-Colonel Croghan, the for-
tunate defender of Sandusky. In July, they took
St. Joseph, and destroyed a settlement of the North
West Company, on the north side of the strait of
St. Mary; and, on the 5th of August, landed on the
island of Michilimackinac, and advanced to attack
the fort, but were repulsed with the loss of Major
Holmes, and seventeen privates killed. The squa-
dron having captured every British vessel on lake
Huron, returned to lake Erie, except two schooners,
the Tygress and the Scorpion, which were left to
keep possession, and intercept supplies for Michili-
mackinac. Lieutenant Worsley, of the British
navy, with a party of sailors and soldiers, in boats,
in the month of September, surprised and took one
of these schooners, without giving any alarm to the
other, which was lying at a distance of several
miles. He then proceeded in the captured schooner
with all his men concealed, except a few sailors,
whose dress could not be distinguished from that
of the Americans, until he came along side, when
UPPER CANADA. 27
he fired one charge of grape shot across the Ame-
rican deck, and instantly boarding with his whole
little force, made a second prize without much
resistance. By these gallant and successful efforts,
he recovered the command of lake Huron, and kept
it through the remainder of the war.
The fortification of St. Joseph was not renewed,
that place being so situated, as to be exposed in
several points to the attacks of the superior naval
force on the lake. Colonel M* Do wall, with an
engineer from the army, and Captains Collier and
M'Kenzie, of the navy, explored and chose a site for
a fort on the westernmost of the Mantoulin Islands,
a few miles north east of St. Joseph, much more
secure and susceptible of defence. Before the
peace, the new fortification was commenced, and
was named Fort Drummond.
SKETCH III.
NATURAL DIVISIONS OF THE COUNTRY.
Width of the Province at the North Eastern Limit
— Diverging Courses of the Boundary Waters
— Peninsula between the Lakes — Country beyond
the Lakes — British Claim extending to the Pacific
Ocean — North West Fur Trade— Hudson Bay
Company.
SUCH is the irregular shape of the province,
and such its want of comprehensive surveys, that
28 SKETCHES OF
no calculation, and indeed no satisfactory estimate
of its superficial contents can be formed.
We will merely take a topographical view of its
situation and natural divisions.
At the north eastern limit, the distance from the
lake St. Francis, which is only an expansion of the
river St. Lawrence to the Ottawa, is about twenty
miles, being the depth of two townships, Lancaster*
and Hawksbury, one fronting on each river.
The general course of the shore of the St. Law-
rence, and Jake Ontario, is south westerly. That of
the Ottawa is westerly, as far as the township of
Nepean, a few miles above the mouth of the river
Rideau, and fifty miles north of Elizabeth town.
The Ottawa then bends to the north west.
Seventy miles further westward, at Earnest town,
on the Ontario, the width of the province, that is,
the meridional distance from the lake Ontario to
the river Ottawa, is a hundred miles by computa-
tion, although it has never been accurately mea-
sured.
The forks formed by the junction of the Ottawa
with the Petite Riviere, coming into it from the
south west, are in lat. 46° 45' north, and long. 78°
45' west, and about 350 miles from the eastern
extremity of the province, as the river runs. The
distance from the forks up to the lake Tomescanning,
and the length of that lake, are not precisely ascer-
* Lancaster was a township of double the usual size; it has
lately been divided into two. Of itself it extended nearly twenty
miles. R. G.
UPPER CANADA. 29
tained. The course of% the Petite Riviere to its
head waters, and over to those which flow into
lake Nipissing, and thence into lake Huron, on
its north eastern side, has been more frequently
traversed, being the usual canoe route, by which
goods are sent to the North West, for the fur trade,
and peltries and furs received in return.
The vast wilderness between that route and the
settlements along lake Ontario is little known.
It is part of the hunting ground of the Chippawa
Indians, and not supposed to be very favourable
for cultivation.
But to the southward there is an extensive and
valuable tract, almost surrounded by a chain of
connected lakes.
By a gradual and scarcely perceptible ascent
from the shore of Ontario, at York, towards the
north, about 20 miles, you reach the height of
ground, from whence the waters run northerly into
lake Simcoe, thence into lake Huron, and round
through Sinclair, Detroit, and Erie, into Ontario,
a circuit of 1000 miles.
The peninsula thus formed is an irregular ellipsis,
250 miles long, from Amherstburgh to the head of
Huron; and more than 150 miles broad, from
Niagara to the outlet of Huron.
A few miles west of York, the highlands collect
into a ridge, turning round the head of lake On-
tario, at the variable distance of a mile or two,
until it approaches the Niagara, where it diverges
from the lake shore and crosses the river at Queen-
ston, seven miles above the lake. Here there is
some reason to believe the falls of Niagara once were.
30 SKETCHES OF
coinciding* with this ridge * of land and formed by
it, although they are now seven miles further up,
south, with intervening rapids, and a deep chasm
in the bed of the river below the cataract.
It is ascertained that the surface of lake Erie is
300 feet higher than that of lake Ontario; and
from the ridge or elevation of land running round
the head of Ontario, as above mentioned, the coun-
try back appears to be a vast plain on a level with
the shores of Erie. In respect to climate or soil,
hardly any country in the habitable world is more
favourable for settlement and cultivationf.
The land on the other side of lakes Huron and
Superior, appears to be designed for other purposes
than agriculture. Indian tribes, some of them
wandering and others stationary, occupy it in a
* The word ridge is not, I think, correctly applied here. Ridge
means a prolonged height with a declivity on both aides. The height
spoken of declines only towards lake Ontario, having a plain called
by Volney the table of lake Erie, on the west side. It is called the
mountain, I presume, from a wrong adoption of French idiom.
The slope towards lake Ontario is every where steep, and in some
places craggy. It may run from 200 to 300 feet of perpendicular
height above the plain below. At Queenston, the highest point is
345 feet above the surface level of lake Ontario. The rise from
lake Ontario to lake Erie stands thus, by admeasurement; from
fort George to Queenston, 8 inches ; from Queenston to the Falls,
116 feet; the great Fall, 149 feet 6 inches; thence to Chippawa,
55 feet; and from Chippawa to fo:t Erie (computed), 8 feet:
making in all 329 feet 2 inches. R. G.
+ The tract of country south of the lakes and north of the
river Ohio, embracing the state of Ohio, and the Indiana, Illinois,
and Missouri territories, in the parallels of New Jersey and Penn-
sylvania, lies more exactly in the medium between the extreme*
of heat and cold j and is perhaps superior.
UPPER CANADA. 31
manner adapted to their habits of life. Before
the conquest of Canada, the French, and since that
period, British traders have penetrated this uncul-
tivated interior, in prosecution of a commerce with
the natives for furs.
It is not within the scope of these Sketches to
discuss the right of the British crown, founded ac-
cording- to the law of nations, upon conquest, ces-
sion, or discovery, to the dominion of this country,
northward, as far as the Frozen Ocean, and westward
to the Pacific, to which limits Mr. M'Kenzie and
other British subjects have travelled and taken pos-
session in the name of their sovereign ; nor upon the
supposition of such a western extent of the empire,
will we examine the question whether the province
of Upper Canada is co-extensive, or where its precise
limits are. A geographical glance at the north
west, as the region of the fur trade, is all that is
proposed.
The grand portage, where the goods sent from
Montreal up the Ottawa in canoes, and those trans-
ported in vessels over the lakes, used to meet in
their progress to the Indian markets, is situated
on the westerly side of lake Superior, in lat.
48° north, and long. 90° west. The trading estab-
lishment there belonged to the North West Com-
pany. But that place being claimed by the United
States, as within their north western territory, the
British Company have established a post further
north. This company is not a corporation, but a
respectable firm of merchants, principally of Mon-
treal, who have assumed that name ; and who by
a combination of capital, and a systematic atten-
32 SKETCHES OF
tion to the business, have engrossed the commerce
of the north west. They have agents residing in
London to send out their goods, and make sale of
their peltries and furs. Their stock in the concern
is between one and two hundred thousand pounds
sterling. Previous to the late war they kept
vessels on the lakes Ontario, Erie, Huron, and
Superior. They employ seventy clerks and inter-
preters, between thirty and forty guides, and more
than a thousand canoe men. Most of these, with
others, are sometimes assembled at the company's
depot. From thence the collected peltries and furs
are remitted to Montreal, and the goods forwarded
in different routes, principally to Fort Chepewyan,
another establishment of the company, in lat.
58° 38' north, and long. 110° 26' west, being the
head quarters of the commercial intercourse with
various Indian nations.
The goods are sent and the skins returned in
canoes made of birch bark ; for the country is so
broken into lakes and rivers, that people may find
their way in such canoes in almost any direction
they please, with a few intervening portages, over
which these light vehicles' are easily carried. In-
deed, Mr. M'Kenzie who went, in 1789, from
Chippewyan northward, beyond the sixty -ninth de-
gree of latitude, and ascertained the long contro-
verted point that there is no particular north west
passage, by water, from Europe to Asia ; and
in 1793 penetrated westward to the Pacific,
performed these tours of discovery in a canoe, and
published his Journal of them, not as Travels, but
" Voyages through the Continent of America."
UPPER CANADA. 33
The fur animals inhabiting these north western
regions, may be perceived by the Company's re-
turns of the produce of their trade for one year, as
follows :
Beaver skins . . 106,100
Bear skins f «6l; [ ,>,t 2,100
Fox skins ••p.;».f n^i 1,500
Kitt Fox skins . . 4,000
Otter skins . . 4,600
Musquash skins \ ';. :.->j >,„ 17,000
Martin skins , I), t 32,000
Mink skins joJ [,„/; 18,000
Lynx skins \x.;; :f.[. 6,000
Wolverene skins . . 600
- Fisher skins . . 1,650
Raccoon skins . . 100
Wolfskins "«, '..„-.;, 3,800
Elk skins i>uK t te 700
Deer skins .U * '.) 750
Do. dressed .L0)j. -.,.+ ,. 1,200
Buffalo robes . ,uf; 500
and a quantity of Castorum.
In exchange for which the Indians receive coarse
woollen cloths, milled blankets, arms and ammuni-
tion, tobacco, Manchester goods, linens, and coarse
sheetings, thread, lines and twine, common hard-
ware, cutlery and ironmongery, kettles of brass,
and copper, and sheet iron, silk and cotton hand-
kerchiefs, hats, shoes, and hose, calico and printed
cottons, &c. &c. &c.
These goods being ordered in the fall, are ship-
ped from London in the spring, arrive in Canada
D
34 SKETCHES OP
in the summer, are made up and packed in the
winter, forwarded from Montreal in May follow-
ing, reach the Indian markets the next winter,
where they are exchanged for skins, which are
received the next fall at Montreal, whence they are
shipped chiefly to London, where they are not sold
or paid for until the ensuing spring.
Such is the course of this trade, requiring capi-
tal, connexions, system, and perseverance, beyond
the means of unassociated individuals.
The North West Company are said to have had
a number of trading houses within the alleged
limits of the United States ; and the Hudson's Bay
Company complain of their encroachments on their
territory; an interference which has occasioned
serious hostilities between the agents and servants
of the two companies.
The charter of the Hudson's Bay Company was
granted by King Charles II. in 1662, to Prince
Rupert and his associates. It extends to all lands
\ that lie within the streights, commonly called
Hudson's Streights, together with the countries,
coasts and confines of the seas, bays, lakes, rivers,
creeks, and sounds, not already possessed by any
other Christian prince or state; and gives not only
the right of soil, but also the jurisdiction and right
of government, and also the exclusive right of
trade and navigation. With respect to its extent,
the company claim all the country, the waters of
which flow into Hudson's Bay ; and that seems to
be the natural construction of the terms of grant
contained in the charter; unless some part of the
country thus claimed, was then possessed by the
UPPER CANADA. 35
"Christian prince, or state" of France, so as to be
on that principle excepted from the grant. At that
time, and long afterwards, the geography of these
remote interior regions was very imperfectly un-
derstood. Half a century later, at the treaty of
Utrecht, the line between the British territory of
Hudson's Bay, and the French territory of New
France, since denominated Canada, was settled to
be the forty-ninth degree of latitude. If that set-
tlement of the boundary between the two nations
be conclusive upon the company, it curtailed their
original grant about three degrees of latitude ; for
the head waters of the Red River, running into
lake Winipeck, and thence into Hudson's Bay, are
stated by late travellers to rise almost as far south
as the forty-sixth degree of latitude, and so far
south the company claim the land as covered by
their charter. Indeed they have a settlement al-
ready commenced on the Red River, under the
auspices of Lord Selkirk, one of their principal
proprietors. A part of the territory thus claimed
by them is supposed to lie within the limits assign-
ed to Upper Canada, in the proclamation of 1791.
It interferes also with the claim of the United
States, which extends westward to all the country
south of the latitude of the north westernmost angle
of the lake of the Woods, in 49° 37'. How far
the Hudson's Bay Company's title to the soil under
their charter would be respected, as to lands falling
within the United States, or even in Upper Ca-
nada, it is not now necessary to decide. Between
adjoining provinces, the rule adopted in theory
36 SKETCHES OF
has been that a grant of the right of soil, in a char-
ter from the crown, is neither revoked nor revo^
cable by a subsequent transfer of the jurisdiction.
But in practice this theoretic maxim has sometimes
yielded to political or other considerations.
The constitutional prerogative of the crown to
grant the right of property in those public waste
lands, to incorporate the company, and vest them
with powers of government, was unquestionable.
The legal existence, and the general rights and
estate of the company have been incidentally re-
cognised by Parliament, particular^ in a statute
of the 18th of Geo. II. c. 17. passed for the en-
couragement of persons attempting to discover a
north west passage through Hudson's Streights to
the Pacific Ocean. The act concludes with this
clause, " Provided always that nothing in this act
shall any ways extend, or be construed to take
away or prejudice any of the estate, rights, or
privileges, of or belonging to the Governor and
Company of Adventurers of England, trading into
Hudson's Bay." This amounts to a recognition
and protection of their corporate estate, rights, and
privileges, without, however, specifying what they
are. One of the privileges granted by their char-
ter, the exclusive right of trade, has been called
in question, upon this ground, that according to
the principles of the English constitution, such a
grant is not within the Royal prerogative, and
therefore is not valid without parliamentary con-
firmation. Such confirmation it has indirectly
received. In the treaty of 1794, between Great
Britain and the United States, article 3d. it was
UPPER CANADA. 37
agreed, " that it shall at all times be free to his
Majesty's subjects, and to the citizens of the United
States ; and also to the Indians dwelling on either
side of the said boundary line, freely to pass and
repass by land or inland navigation, into the re-
spective territories and countries of the two parties
on the continent of America, (the country within the
limits of the Hudson's Bay Company only excepted),
and to navigate all the lakes, rivers, and waters there-
of; and freely to carry on trade and commerce with
each other." The exception of " the country
within the limits of the Hudson's Bay Company,"
from the general freedom of commercial intercourse,
is understood to be predicated upon the exclusive
right to the trade and navigation there, which
would have been violated by the admission of
others without their consent. The act of Parlia-
ment for carrying the treaty into execution, was a
legislative confirmation of it. So that their ex-
clusive privilege of trade seems to have received
the indirect sanction of Parliament*.
SKETCH IV.
LAKES, RIVERS, CATARACTS, BAYS,
AND HARBOURS.
Long Lake — Rivers running in opposite directions —
Lake Superior — Strait of St. Marie — St. Joseph
• The above statement of the treaty of Utrecht must not be re-
lied on, without a re-examination of the treaty, which the writer
had not in his possession.
38 SKETCHES OF
— Michilimackinac and Lake Michigan — Lake
Huron— Lake Simcoe — River and Lake Sinclair,
and the River Thames — Battles of Harrison and
Proctor , of Long Woods — Detroit — Lake Erie,
its Bays and Capes, and Level with the Ohio —
Battles on and round the Lake — Niagara Falls,
River, Harbours, Battles — Lake Ontario — Bur-
lington Bay — York Harbour — Capture of York
*— Route by Yonge Street to the North West
— Presque Isle — Bay of Quinte— Earnest Town,
Sound, and Harbour — Kingston — Harbours on
the south Shore and Battles — Lake Fleets —
Islands — River St. Lawrence—- Prescott and Og-
densburah — Rapids — Confluence of the Ottawa —
Rise and Fall of Waters— Tides.
IN drawing* the boundary line between the
United States and Canada, the treaty mentions a
lake, west of lake Superior, by the name of the
Long1 lake. Mr. M'Kenzie says, it has no exist-
ence ; but according to the late Surveyor-General
Smith and others, there is a chain of small lakes
connected by a stream running westerly from one
to another. This connexion of waters is supposed
to be what was intended under the description of
the Long lake, the geography of this interior re-
gion being at that time very imperfectly under-
stood. The westernmost and principal of these
small lakes is the Rainy lake, communicating by the
river La Pluie, with ther lake of the Woods al-
ready described, from which the communication is
continued to lake Winipeck, which discharges its
waters by the river Nelson, into Hudson's Bay.
UPPER CANADA. 39
Lake Superior is the fountain of the St. Law-
rence. Captain Carver, who travelled in 1766, sup-
posed this great river and three others, the Mississip-
pi, the Oregon, or River of the West, and the Bourbon,
to have their sources near together, although they
quarter the continent and seek the ocean in oppo-
site directions. His information was derived from
the Indians, whose representations were not correct.
We have attended to the latitude and longitude
of the head of the Mississippi. The Missouri, its
western branch, rises at a great distance in the
Rocky Mountains, where also springs one branch
of the great river Columbia, named by Captain
Carver the Oregon, which empties into the Pacific,
and according to Mr. M'Kenzie, there is the source
of the Nelson, which is lost in Hudson's Bay, as
already mentioned ; and another stream which he
has named M'Kenzie's River, and which he traced
up to lat. 69° 14' north, and long. 135° west, where he
met an opening, supposed, from the whales found
there and other circumstances, to be a bay of the
northern ocean. But the head waters of the St.
Lawrence rise around lake Superior, which is their
grand reservoir.
The magnitude of this lake justifies its name;
it is the largest body of fresh water in the known
world. Its computed length is 450 miles; its
circumference 1500 miles. The computation how-
ever of the extent of this and the other lakes, has
not been formed upon very certain data. It con-
tains a number of large islands, one of them re-
puted to be 100 miles long, and 40 broad. The two
largest, Royal and Phillipeaux, are defined by the
40 SKETCHES OF
treaty to be on the United States side of the line.
Its water is deep, pure, and so transparent, that the
rocky bottom may be seen at a great depth. The
shores, in many places, are said to abound with cop-
per ore and copperas : but I do not find that any
satisfactory assays have been made of the ore. The
surrounding land is rocky, uneven, and unfit for
cultivation. The lake is supplied by many rivers,
principally on its northern side, but none of very
great length.
The French had a schooner on this lake, which
they burned on the surrender of Canada. It is now
navigated by a number of vessels, and many boats
and canoes, which proceed coastwise from St.
Marie's Strait round to the Grand Portage, a dist-
ance of more than 500 miles.
From various indications it is believed, that the
waters of this, as of the other lakes in general, have
subsided some feet below their original height.
But they have now (1815), risen again several feet
above their average level for a few years past.
The outlet is at the eastern end of the lake,
through the strait of St. Marie, which is about 40
miles in length. Near the head of it, are the
Rapids usually called the falls of St. Marie, in lat.
46° 31' north, and long. 84° west. The strait is
navigable for boats and canoes, except at the falls,
where although it may be descended with some dif-
ficulty and hazard, it cannot be ascended without
the aid of locks. The portage is about two miles;
at the foot of the falls is a celebrated fishery, espe-
cially for White fish.
The strait of St. Marie opens into lake Huron
UPPER CANADA. 41
at its north western angle, near which is the Island
of St. Joseph, where the westernmost British gar-
rison was established after the upper posts were re-
linquished to the United States. It is a place of no
trade, resorted to by the Indians solely for the pur-
pose of receiving their annual presents.
About 40 miles south, the strait of Michilimacki-
nac, 15 miles in length, introduces the waters
of lake Michigan, which extends southerly, 260
miles into the United States. The river Chicago,
falling into the south end of lake Michigan, is
navigable up to within four miles of the Kicka-
poo, a branch of the Illinois, a navigable stream of
the Mississippi. From Green Bay, the western
arm of lake Michigan, boats can ascend the Fox
river to within two miles of the Ouiscousen, which
enters the Mississippi three miles below Prairie de
Chiens, leaving a portage of only two miles.
The circumference of lake Huron, has been es-
timated at 1000 miles ; but it is too irregular to
admit of much precision. In length it reaches
from Michilimackinac on the west to Matchedash,
now denominated Gloucester Bay, on the east, where
the waters of lake Simcoe enter from the south
east ; near the northern coast there is a string of
islands, called Manitou or Manitoulin islands, re-
garded by the Indians with a degree of reverence,
as the residence of spirits. The south shore is deep-
ly indented with capes and bays. In the eastern
part of it, the promontory of Cabot's Head, runs
northerly half across the lake towards the Manitou
islands. Saganum Bay stretches to the south west,
80 miles inland, and is generally about 20 miles
42 SKETCHES OF
wide. A broader and longer bay, without any ap-
propriate name, spreads down south, until it nar-
rows into a channel called the river Sinclair, which
runs southerly to the lake of that name, an expan-
sion of waters, 30 miles in length and nearly as
much in breadth, with several islands in it.
Lake Sinclair receives in its south eastern quar-
ter the river Thames, formerly the La Trenche, a
river of considerable extent, without falls, commu-
nicating from its upper branches, by small portages,
with lake Huron, and also with the Grand river,
now styled the Ouse *. At the mouth of the Thames
is a sand bar, over which, however, small craft
rigged, and large vessels when lightened, may pass.
The navigation then is good up to Chatham, 15
miles above the bar.
The Moravian towns, twenty miles above
Chatham on both sides of the river, have become
famous in consequence of the battle fought there
October 5, 1813, between the British and Indian
forces, under General Proctor and the Indian Chief
Tecumseh, and the army of General Harrison. The
former had retreated from Maiden by way of Sand-
wich, to this place ; the latter had pursued up the
Thames on the left bank, and crossing over to the
right or north side in the morning, came up be-
fore night with General Proctor's line, which was
formed in open order with his left wing resting on
the river, and his right in the edge of a swamp,
where the Indians were advantageously posted,
still further to the right. The ground between the
* It is invariably called the Grand River. R. G.
UPPER CANADA. 43
river and the swamp was a wood without under-
brush. General Harrison having- determined to
make his main attack upon the British regulars,
and to avoid a contest with the Indians in their
chosen position, formed his right in a line from the
river towards the swamp, and his left at right
angles with the right, thus refusing his left to the
Indians. The Kentucky and Ohio mounted volun-
teers, under the command of Colonel Johnson, were
posted in front of the infantry ; and the whole were
yet covered by the wood. These volunteers were
then ordered to advance, and as soon as their op-
ponents had delivered one fire to charge at full
speed. They did so. In a minute they broke
through the line, and as they wheeled about, the
British troops, finding it impossible to resist so su-
perior a force, or to make good a retreat under their
circumstances, generally surrendered without a
second fire. The main body of the Indians were
not engaged; but, seeing the British line routed,
took to their heels. Some of them, however, with
Tecumseh at their head, maintained for some time
a desperate engagement with the left wing of John-
son's mounted men, till their celebrated leader
fell, and Johnson's battalion was reinforced. They
then gave way and fled. Colonel Johnson was se-
verely but not mortally wounded. The number
of prisoners taken by General Harrison, according
to his official statement, was 25 officers and 609
non-commissioned officers and privates; General
Proctor escaped with about 250 men. General
Harrison's army consisted of about 3,500 men.
44 SKETCHES OF
The whole number of Indians or their loss was not
ascertained. The body of the fallen Tecumseh
was disfigured and treated with indignity by some
of the Kentucky volunteers.
In the Long Woods, a place higher up the river
Thames, on the fourth of March following, Cap-
tain Holmes, with 160 rangers from General Har-
rison's army, was attacked by two British compa-
nies, led by Captain Barsden ; the former were post-
ed vety advantageously behind a temporary breast-
work. The assailants advanced to the charge up
the side of a hill glazed with ice ; and being ex-
posed to the deadly aim of the American rifles, were
cut down and compelled to retreat, with a loss of
nearly half their whole number killed, wounded,
and taken prisoners.
The lake and river Sinclair, though shallow in
some parts, are navigable for schooners, which, in-
deed, can pass with safety up to the falls of St.
Marie.
From lake Sinclair, down to lake Erie, in a
southern course, not direct, but somewhat curved,
there is a beautiful channel about 27 miles in
length, which has long been known by the French
name of Detroit, th^t is, in English, The Strait.
It is navigable for lake vessels of any ordinary size.
On the western side, nine miles below the outlet
of lake Sinclair, stands the town of Detroit, where
the French, before the conquest, and afterwards the
English, until 1794, kept a garrison, and where the
United States now have a considerable military \
force. It is a handsome town, containing 300
UPPER CANADA. 45
houses, with villages and orchards extending up
and down the river, so delightfully situated that it
has been styled the Montpelier of America. Having
been destroyed by fire, it was rebuilt in a better style
than before the conflagration. It is the seat of
government of the Michigan territory, belonging
to the United States.
On the 16th of August, 1812, Detroit and the
whole territory of Michigan was surrendered by
General Bull to General Brock. It remained
under British authority more than a year. After
the decisive actions on lake Erie and at the
Moravian towns, it came again into the possession
of the United States. The fort was repaired, and
is now very strong.
A little below, on the east side of the channel of
the river, is a low marshy island, named Turkey
island, or Fighting island, near four miles long.
Sandwich is situated on a small plain, close to
the bank of the river. Its harbour is convenient
for the building of wharfs, and the security of
vessels in the winter.
General Hull landed at Sandwich when he in-
vaded Canada in July, 1812. Here he issued his
Proclamation to the inhabitants of the province, a
number of whom joined his standard. Some grain
and other private property was taken, for the use
of the army; and a dwelling house and several
other buildings were burned, by some of the
American troops. Preparations were made for an
attack upon Maiden, but the enterprise was relin-
quished. After one month's possession, he recrossed
46 SKETCHES OF
the river and returned to Detroit, whither he was
soon followed by General Brock. General Harrison
entered Sandwich in September, 1813, from which
time it continued, with the whole western district
of Upper Cauada, in subjection- to the United States
until the peace, under the same regulations as had
been adopted in the territory of Michigan, while
subject to British authority.
Maguaga, on the south side of the river, is 14
miles below Detroit. There, a combined British
and Indian force, led by Major Muir and Tecumseh,
August 9, 1812, attacked a detachment of General
Hull's army, consisting of 600 men, commanded
by Colonel Miller, who, after one fire, charged
them with the bayonet and routed them.
In describing the boundaries of the Province, we
had occasion to mention the military post of Am-
herstburgh, in the township of Maiden, at the mouth
of the Detroit. Near the east shore of the river,
and on the British side of the widest channel, lies
an island named Bois Blanc, containing 150, or
200 acres, orginally covered with white wood,
whence its name was derived. The deepest channel,
however, is on the easterly side of the island. This
island is valuable in two respects; as it commands the
strait, and, at the same time, shelters the port of
Amherstburgh, which is the safest and most com-
modious harbour in this part of the country, for
naval or commercial purposes. The British fleet of
lake Erie is stationed here ; and it is an increasing
depot of western commerce, in competition with
Sandwich. The garrison at Amherstburgh furnishes
UPPER CANADA. 47
a detachment to Bois Blanc, to keep possession of
the island, which is claimed by the United States,
as on their side of the channel. This claim is more
interesting- in a military point of view, than in res-
pect to commerce.
Within the township of Maiden, five or six miles
north of Amherstburgh, the river Aux Canard en-
ters the Detroit. A bridge over this river was the
scene of some skirmishing in August, 1812, between
a detachment of General Hull's army, under Co-
lonels Cass and Miller, and a British guard stationed
there to defend that pass. A few miles further up,
in the township of Sandwich, Turkey creek falls
into the strait.
In the early stages of the war, Amherstburgh was
a post of great consequence. It stopped the pro-
gress of General Hull's invasion. It was the rally-
ing point where General Brock concentred his
forces, to proceed on his bold expedition against
General Hull at Detroit. It was a place of ren-
dezvous for the Indians who followed the British
standard. Here also the ships were built, and the
fleet fitted out for lake Erie.
After the defeat and capture of the British
squadron under Commodore Barclay, General Proc-
tor abandoned Amherstburgh, having burned the
fort, navy yard, barracks, and public storehouses.
General Harrison landed without opposition, Sep-
tember 23, 1813. It remained in subjection to
the United States, during the residue of the war.
At the peace it was restored, and is re-established
as a military post.
48 SKETCHES OF
Opposite to Maiden, in the territory of Michigan,
is the village of Brownstown, in which a party of
Indians, in the British service, accomplished one of
their favorite operations of war, an ambuscade.
On the 4th of August, 1812, a detachment of 200
militia of General Hull's army, under the command
of Major General Home, on their march from
Detroit to the river Raisin, were here ambushed,
attacked and defeated.
Lake Erie is near 300 miles long, in a direction
from south west to north east. Its breadth is from
20 to 40 miles generally. At Port Talbot, its
widest point, it is 60 miles ; and at Long Point, the
narrowest place, it is only 20.
The entrance of the Detroit is in latitude 40° 52'
on the north side of the south western point, which
is at Miami Bay. Its outlet is the Niagara river, at
the north eastern point, in latitude 42° 53'. On the
Canada side of this outlet, is the harbour of fort
Erie, and on the opposite side is that of Buffalo, in
the state of New York. From these two ports,
which are only three miles apart, the navigators of
the lake sail west south west, about 260 miles, to a
cluster of islands, one of which has a good harbour,
called Put-in-Bay, on the United States side of
the middle line. Thence the course is northerly,
36 miles to Amherst burgh, and south westerly, 30
miles to Miami Bay. These are the distances as
estimated by those who navigate the lake; but
they have not been accurately measured.
The southern shore of lake Erie is in the United
States. From the mouth of the Detroit to Miami
1
UPPER CANADA. 49
Bay, it is in the territory of Michigan ; thence to
Connaught Creek, 250 miles in the state of Ohio;
thence to a little east of Presque Isle, now named
Erie, 45 miles in Pennsylvania ; thence to Buffalo,
90 miles in the state of New York.
About 20 miles from the Detroit the river Raisin
enters the lake from the west. French Town, on
this river, has been signalized by the defeat and
surrender of General Winchester, and the Indian
barbarities which ensued. General Proctor, the
British commander, could not restrain the savages
from massacring a number of American prisoners.
Miami Bay, near the boundary between Michi-
gan and Ohio, receives the Miami of the lake,
which is navigable for boats to within 12 miles of
the waters of the Great Miami of the Ohio; and,
by another branch, to within five miles of those of
the Wabash, another stream of the Ohio.
Near the mouth of the Miami of the lake, a
British fort was built in 1794, to stop the march of
General Wayne, who was advancing, it was ap-
prehended, for the purpose of seizing Detroit. But
his expedition was against the Indians. He fought
their collected forces near the rapids, and gave
them a total defeat. Near the rapids, also, on the
right bank of the river, stands Fort Meigs, where
General Harrison was besieged by General Proctor,
in the winter and spring of 1813. During the
siege, Major Chambers, with a flag from General
Proctor, held out to General Harrison the danger
of outrages from the Indians, if irritated by further
defence. It had no effect. In the beginning of
60 SKETCHES OP
May, General Clay arrived with a reinforcement of
Kentucky militia. As they were coming down the
river in boats, a detachment of them under Colonel
Dudley were ordered to land and attack a British
battery, and spike the cannon, which they accom-
plished ; but, instead of hastening back to their
boats, and passing down to the fort, as their orders
directed, they loitered on the shore, until they were
attacked by a large force of regular troops, militia
and Indians, from General Proctor's camp. Colonel
Dudley was killed; and nearly all his men were
killed and wounded, or taken prisoners. But the
Indians became dissatisfied ; and in consequence of
two successful sorties, both made on the fifth of
May, the principal one led by Colonel Miller, the
siege was raised, and General Proctor withdrew his
army towards Detroit.
Sandusky Bay, further east, is a capacious har-
bour; and its river communicates by a portage of
about four miles with the Scioto, a navigable stream
of the Ohio. On this river there are two forts,
Upper Sandusky, and Lower Sandusky, sometimes
called Fort Stevenson. The latter was besieged by
General Proctor, in August, 1813. Major Croghan,
a young officer, just past his twenty-first year,
gained no small applause by his disregard of a
threat of an Indian massacre, and his able defence
of the fort. An attempt was made to carry it by
storm ; but the assailants were repulsed with heavy
loss, received chiefly from a masked battery,
opened upon them in the ditch. Lieutenant-Co-
lonel Short, who led the attack, was killed. The
siege was immediately abandoned.
UPPER CANADA. 61
About the middle of the south shore is Cleaveland,
at the mouth of the river Cayahaga, from whose
head waters there is a carrying- place of 12 or 15
miles, to the Tuscarawas branch of the Muskingum,
and thence down to the Ohio.
Further east still is the harbour of Erie, from
which there is a portage of 14 miles, over a turn-
pike road, to Waterford, formerly named Le Boeuf,
on the French creek, which is navigable for boats
down to its junction with the Allegany, at Franklin,
and thence down to Pittsburg, where the Alleganjr
and Monongahela unite and form the Ohio.
At some of these places of communication, in the
spring, the head waters of lake Erie and of the
Ohio are said to intermix, so that boats can pass
clear through.
There are tolerable harbours at the mouths of
several other rivers on the south shore, through
which the inhabitants of the northern counties of
the state of Ohio, will be able to hold a commercial
communication with the lake.
The north shore from the Detroit eastward is
wholly in the province of Upper Canada. It is
rendered irregular by several capes or points of
land. The first is Point Pele, or South Foreland,
which projects a great length into the lake. It
lies south of Romney, and of the east border of
lake Sinclair. It is the most southern point of
Canada, and indeed of all the British territories on
this continent. The next is Landguard, formerly
called Point aux Pins, whence there is a short north
westerly route to Chatham on the Thames. The
E 2
52 SKETCHES OF
third is North Foreland, better known by the name
of Long Point, which is a peninsula projecting
from the south west angle of Walsingham, eastward
into the lake, about twenty miles, making an arm
that embays a large body of water. Where the
peninsula joins the main, there is a creek, which,
when the waters are high, is of sufficient depth for
boats to pass, from within the bay, over the creek,
into the open lake ; and when the waters are low,
the distance is so short, that batteux are easily
hauled over. Within this long promontory, east-
ward, is Turkey Point. North of Turkey Point, in
the township of Woodhouse, is the village of Dover 9
which was burned in the last year of the late war,
by a party of militia from the opposite shore, under
a Colonel Campbell, acting, as the secretary of the
United States declared, without any orders or au-
thority from their government.
Further east still, between the township of Wain-
fleet and Rainham, is the mouth of Grand River,
or Ouse, which rises near lake Huron, and passes
by the waters of the Thames. It is navigable
many miles for small vessels, and a considerable
distance further for boats. About fifty miles up is
the Mohawk village ; and the other six nations of
Indians have villages on its banks.
Twenty-four miles east of the Grand River, and
ten miles west of Fort Erie, is Point Abino, which
affords a convenient shelter, and good anchorage
for vessels.
Between Grand River and Point Abino, is Sugar-
loaf Hill, a conspicuous land mark, well known to
both sailors and passengers.
UPPER CANADA. 53
Compared with the other lakes the water of this
is shallow ; and the bottom is so generally composed
of flat rocks, as to afford but little good anchoring
ground. The navigation of it is more difficult than
that of Ontario, on account of the different courses
which vessels must steer from one end to the other.
From Blackrock, or Chippawa, the course is south-
erly, and the current is so swift, that vessels cannot
sail up without a fair and a strong wind. At the
other end the course is northerly into the Detroit.
The winds blow three quarters of the sailing season
from the south west. Another difficulty arises from
the ragged and rocky shores, and the want of
anchorage.
His Britannic Majesty and the United States
have long maintained a naval force on this lake.
In the late war it was augmented on both sides,
till the British consisted of two ships, two brigs,
one schooner, and one sloop, carrying in the whole
63 guns ; that of the United States carried 54 guns,
besides a number of gun-boats. On the 10th of
September, 1813, the two little fleets met between
Amherstburgh and Put-in-Bay, from which ports
they had respectively sailed in search of each other.
The result of a severe engagement was that the
whole British squadron, commanded by Commodore
Barclay, though successful at first, was notwith-
standing the exertion of consummate bravery and
skill, finally captured by the American squadron
under Commodore Perry, assisted by Captain Elliot.
The British commander, who had before lost one
arm in battle, was now severely wounded in the
54 SKETCHES OF
other. In this scene of accumulated distress, he found
a friend in his enemy. The brave are naturally
.humane. Commodore Perry paid the most delicate
attention to his equally heroic, but less fortunate
rival. The brave, too, are grateful as well as
humane. There is as much magnanimity in ac-
knowledging as in bestowing a kindness. At a
public dinner given afterwards at Three Rivers, in
Lower Canada, in honour of Commodore Barclay,
he gave as a volunteer toast, " Commodore Perry,
the gallant but generous enemy.1' Of all the com-
pliments paid to the hero of lake Erie, this is far
from being the least. Had the fortunes of these
liberal men, on that eventful day, been reversed,
there is good reason to believe, their humanity and
gratitude would only have changed sides. There
is a pleasure in recording such examples ; and their
influence is salutary in softening the ferocity of
war.
Two naval enterprises which occurred near Fort
Erie, at different times, but similar in their nature,
are worthy of notice. In the first year of the war,
Captain Elliott, with 100 men, in two boats, pro-
ceeded in the night from Buffalo Creek to the
harbour of Fort Erie, and there boarded two British
brigs, the Detroit of 14 guns, formerly the Adams,
which had been taken at Detroit, by General
Brock, and now had American prisoners and arms
on board, and the Caledonia, belonging to the
North West Company, with a cargo of furs. As
the wind .did not enable him to stem the current,
and carry his prizes up into the lake, he ran down
UPPER CANADA. 55
by the fort, amidst the fire of the batteries, and
steered for Black Rock, where he safely beached the
Caledonia ; but the Detroit got aground on Squaw
island; Major Ormsby, the commandant of Fort
Erie, with a party of sailors and soldiers there
boarded her, to bring her off; but they were driven
back, with the loss of the major, and about 30
privates. Neither party succeeded in getting1 her
off. She sunk and was lost. In the last summer
of the war, while General Drummond was be-
sieging Fort Erie, three American schooners lay
off in the river below the fort, in such positions as
to annoy the besiegers. Captain Dobbs, of the
British Ontario fleet, transporting four boats from
the Chippawa over land, into Lake Erie, above the
fort, in the night, and passing round into the Nia-
gara, approached the schooners under the appear-
ance of American market boats, and boarded two
of them, which he brought down and secured near
Navy island.
In the summer of 1815, two armed schooners
were built on the British side, above Chippawa,
opposite to Navy island. They are now on the
lake, in his Majesty's service.
Fort Erie stands on ground elevated about 15
feet above the water. Prior to the war it was an
indifferent fortification. In the fluctuating pro-
gress of the war, it was alternately possessed by
both armies. In May, 1813, after the capture of
Fort George, it was abandoned by the British, and
occupied by a corps detached for that purpose from
General Dearborn's army. Before the close of that
66 SKETCHES OF
campaign it was reoccupied by the British. July
3d, 1814, it surrendered without much resistance
to General Brown's army, as soon almost as they
landed from the other shore, some of them above
and others below the fort. After the battles of
Chippawa and Niagara, and the return of the re-
mains of the American army, under General Ripley,
it was strengthened and the works enlarged. A
new fort or redoubt was erected on Snake Hill, to
the left of the old fort, and connected with it by an
intervening breast work, ditch, and abattis. Gene-
ral Drummond soon commenced a regular siege.
In the night of the 15th of August, he made a
grand effort to storm it, at three different points,
by three separate columns; the right commanded
by Lieutenant- Colonel Vicker, the left by Colonel
Scott, and the center by Lieutenant-Colonel Drum-
mond. The fort was then defended by General
Gains, assisted by Generals Ripley, Porter, and
Miller. The operations of the three storming par-
ties were intended to be simultaneous; but the
right column began the attack, and advanced un-
til they were within ten feet of General Ripley's
line, when they were repulsed, but instantly re-
newed the charge and were again repulsed. The
left column made a vigorous assault; but were
checked and compelled to retire. Colonel Scott
was mortally wounded. The column led by Colonel
Drumrroiid, approached with ladders, amidst a
tremendous fire, and scaled the parapet of the
exterior bastion; but were driven back. They
ascended again, and met with a second repulse. A
UPPER CANADA. 57
third time they gained the parapet, and with a
desperate impetuosity, carried the bastion. The
Americans then fired on them at close shot from
the interior bastion, and repeatedly charged to
dislodge them. They sustained these successive
shocks with firmness, although thinned by such
repeated charges, and the incessant fire of cannon
and musketry. The American left being disen-
gaged, now rushed with a reinforcement to this
.contested point. The contest for the bastion was
obstinate and sanguinary. Colonel Drummond fell,
pierced with several balls. At this crisis, the ex-
plosion of a box of cartridges, in an adjoining stone
building, increased the carnage and confusion, and
forced the survivors of Colonel Drummond's column
out of the bastion. As they retired, they were
fired on by a raking battery, and enfiladed by a
field piece so placed, as to sweep the salient glacis.
The British loss was 900 killed, wounded, and
taken prisoners : that of the Americans much less.
Thus General Drummond's well-concerted attack
was defeated in all its points. Disappointed, but
not discouraged, he prosecuted the siege with more
caution, but not with less zeal ; being resolved, if
possible, to drive the invaders from the province.
In a month he had completed an advanced line of
batteries, intrenchments, and block-houses, reach-
ing from the Niagara, round to the lake, at the
distance of 500 yards from the fort. His camp was
two miles in the rear of these works, so that his
reserve was out of the range of the fire from the
fort ; while the batteries thus planted could play
58 SKETCHES OF
upon it with effect, and a new one was just ready
to be opened. On the 17th of September, General
Brown having- recovered from his wounds received
at Lundy's Lane, and resumed the command at
Fort Erie, made a sortie, with 2000 men, stormed
three of these batteries, two block-houses, and the
intervening1 line of intrenchments, spiked the can-
non, and blew up one magazine; but upon the
approach of the British reserve, withdrew his troops
into the fort, having accomplished the main object
of the sortie, and not choosing to hazard any thing
more. The circumstances were such as to give
both sides occasion to claim the honour of victory.
The action at all the batteries was not more than
an hour and a^alf; but from the nature of the
attack it was close and severe. General Ripley
was dangerously wounded. The American loss, in
killed, wounded, and prisoners, exceeded 500;
that of the British was considerably more.
General Drummond's forces being weakened by
this blow, and having already suffered severely from
fatigue, and exposure, and sickness, during a siege
of 50 days, in a rainy season and muddy ground,
he appears to have been of opinion that he could
not be justified in persevering any longer. He
therefore determined to raise the siege. According-
ly, in the evening of the 21st, he broke up his
camp, and fell back to Chippawa. At the close of
this arduous campaign, General Brown dismantled
Fort Erie, moved his army across the river, and
went into winter quarters.
Fort Erie has a good harbour, and a pleasant
1
UPPER CANADA. 59
little village. Several houses and barns were burnt
in this vicinity, arid indeed throughout all the
country, which was the scene of military operations.
Mills were ranked among- the resources of war, and
were therefore professedly destroyed. Other build-
ings were burned from wantonness, private malice,
or mere accident. The march of an army, even
of defenders, and much more of invaders, is gene-
rally tracked with desolation. Amidst the inva-
sions and retreats, the marches and counter-marches,
the encampments, sieges, and battles, which di-
versified the war on the Niagara frontier, it was
scarcely possible that the inhabitants should not
suffer in their habitations and property. Of these
sufferers the village of Fort Erie had its share.
Nearly opposite to it, in the state of New York,
stands the village of Buffalo, at the mouth of the
creek of that name, on the stage road from Albany,
at the distance of 296 miles from that city. The
creek, for more than a mile, has depth enough of
water for a good harbour ; but the channel into it
is crooked and difficult, being obstructed by a bar,
so that vessels are obliged to anchor off in an open
bay, exposed to the lake winds. During the late
war, Buffalo was a military post. The village, con-
sisting of 100 houses, was taken and burned by
the army commanded by General Riall, Dec. 30,
1813. But it has risen like a phoenix from its
ashes. I visited it in August, 1815, and was as-
tonished to find it rebuilt in so short a time after
the termination of the war. There were nearly as
many houses as before its conflagration, and some of
60 SKETCHES OF
them more elegant than those which they had suc-
ceeded.
Black Rock also was a military station. In July,
1813, a British detachment, commanded by Colo-
nel Bishop, made a descent upon it, and succeeded
in the destroying some shipping1 and stores; but
were attacked as they were retiring", and their
commander mortally wounded. On the 29th of
December, 1813, a respectable force, under the or-
ders of General Drummond, but led on by General
Riall, landed at Black Rock, and after skirmishing-
a while with the militia, took the battery and
burned the village on the way to Buffalo. August
3, 1814, Lieutenant-Colonel Tucker, with a thou-
sand British troops, crossing below Squaw island,
effected a landing, and advanced towards Black
Rock ; but was met and repulsed at a bridge, by
Major Morgan, with 300 riflemen.
The Niagara river is interesting to the statesman
and the soldier, as well as the geographer, for it is
the frontier between one of the most populous
districts of Upper Canada, and the most populous
of the United States. It is 33 miles in length,
from the north eastern extremity of lake Erie to
its entrance into Ontario. Its general course is
northerly, in a line which would cross lake Ontario,
between 20 and 30 miles east of its western point.
The river, as it issues from lake Erie, is about a
mile wide. At Black Rock, three miles below,
it is three quarters of a mile. Further down it
widens, to embrace Grand isle, with Squaw island
at its head, and Navy island near its foot ; below
UPPER CANADA. 61
which, a little above Chippawa, the river resembles
a bay, more than two miles in breadth. Then it
narrows down the rapids, to the falls, whence it is
contracted into a still narrower chasm, as far as
Queenston. There it spreads again, to the width
of more than half a mile, and continues so to lake
Ontario.
The most frequented ferry is at Black Rock,
where the passenger views this mighty mass of
water, rushing from the lake with majestic sweep.
The prospect is truly sublime. The current is seven
miles an hour. A flat bottomed boat, in crossing,
is carried down nearly half a mile. There is
another ferry below Navy island, and another at
Queenston. The current from that place down to
Niagara, is at the average velocity of about three
miles and a half an hour, so that a vessel will float,
without wind, from Queenston to the lake, in two
hours. On each side of the channel at Queenston,
there is an eddy or counter-current. A boat passing,
over is pushed upward, till it comes out into the
channel, then swept downward until it reaches the
eddy on the other side, when it is borne up again,
in a diagonal line, to the opposite landing place.
Grand isle appears to be east of the middle of
the river, and of course belongs to the State
of New York. It is 12 miles long and from
two to seven broad. Squaw island also is on the
New York side, so is Strawberry island. The
States have lately purchased these three islands
from the Indians. Nayy island is cl limed by both
parties, and it remains for the commissioners to
62 SKETCHES OF
settle the claim. The main channel, I think, passes
on its east side between it and Grand isle. If that
should be adjudged to be " the middle of the river"
in the sense of the treaty, this island will be found
to belong to Canada.
Manchester, on the east bank of the river, a lit-
tle south of Fort Schlosser, is the head of the portage
from Lewistown*. Here goods brought by land round
the falls, are put into boats, and transported up to
Black rock or Buffalo. Manchester was burnt by
the British troops in December, 1813. Soon after
the peace it was rebuilt. On the fourth of July,
1813, Fort Schlosser was surprised by Lieutenant-
Colonel Clark of the Canadian militia, who took
and brought off the guard stationed there.
On the opposite bank of the Niagara is the
village of Chippawa, situated on both sides of the
creek, close to its entrance into the river. The
land carriage from Queenston, ends at this place,
and goods are transported hence in boats to Fort
Erie. Here is a fort and barracks for troops. In
the course of the late war it was alternately the
place of encampment of both armies. The plain
south of the creek was also the ground of a cele-
brated battle fought July 5, 1814, between Gene-
ral Riall's army and the American army of superior
strength, commanded by General Brown, who was
assisted by Generals Scott, Ripley, and Porter.
* Schlosser is the head of the portage and is south of Manches-
ter nearly two miles. The village of Manchester is immediately
at the falls.— R. G.
UPPER CANADA, 63
The attack was made on General Scott's brigade,
which was principally engaged in the open plain,
and he signalized himself at the head of them.
Lieutenant-Colonel Pierson commanded the British
advance. Lieutenant-Colonel Gordon and the Mar-
quis of Tweedale were wounded at the head of
their regiments. The action was short ; the Bri-
tish line being checked in an attempt to charge,
retreated and were closely pursued, but gained the
bridge, and passing over the creek, took a position
behind the entrenchments, which they maintained,
and from which they opened a fire that checked the
pursuit. Without attempting to cross the creek,
General Brown returned to his camp, and General
Riall moved towards Queenston, whence he proceed-
ed to Fort George, and thence to the 20 mile creek
on the route towards Burlington heights, to pre-
vent General Brown from gaining that post.
The river, or as it is sometimes termed, the strait
of Niagara, presents to the senses and the mind
more sublimities and interesting scenes, perhaps,
than any other water or tract of land of only 11
leagues of extent. But the most prominent of all
its objects, is the grand fall, the sublimest cataract
in the known world. This has been so often describ-
ed, that a description of it now is a beaten topic ;
yet it seems to be an essential article in Sketches of
Upper Canada.
It is situated 18 miles below lake Erie, and 15
above Ontario. Two miles higher up the Chippawa
or Welland creek falls into the Niagara, from the
west. From Fort Erie down to Chippawa the land
64 SKETCHES OF
is level, and the road is nearly straight, running'
along- the bank, which is agreeably but not loftily
elevated above the water. The view is delightful.
The Chippawa having passed over a plain of 40
miles, and through a number of swamps and strata
of discolouring earth, is a sluggish, dark water,
not very fit for culinary uses, or even for washing,
and as it meets the clear rapid stream of the Nia-
gara, instead of intermixing with it, it pushes along
near the shore, and forms a very visible contrast.
It can be traced all the way down to the falls.
A distant murmuring sound is heard like that of
waves breaking against the sea shore. Below
Chippawa the current begins to quicken, and soon
becomes too rapid to be entered without hazard.
The neighbouring inhabitants say that deer, squir-
rels and other animals, attempting to swim across
are carried down. Geese and ducks, which happen
to light in the water there, are unable to rise upon
the wing again ; and even fishes in their own ele-
ment are hurried down to destruction*. The bank
appears to ascendf by the increase of its distance
from the descending surface of the stream. The
velocity is accelerated, and the noise swells upon the
ear. The river bends a little to the left, rushing
* During winter gulls are seen flying constantly over the ra-
pids, and occasionally diving down to the water. I have thought
that they picked up fishes fluttering in the overpowering stream.
— R.G.
•f- It does ascend considerably, perhaps 50 or 60 feet from
Chippawa to the height above the falls. The river descends 55
feet in the same distance. — R. G.
UPPER CANADA. $$
down among rocks and precipices covered with
foam, dasb«ed up in various forms and colours. Be-
yond these foaming rapids, at the distance of half
;i mile, a cloud of vapour is seen to rise \ but the
river disappears.
A mile or more above the falls, a portion of the
river, consisting principally of the Chippawa wa-
ters, is separated from the main channel by an
island. On this detached branch of the stream, by
the side of the rapids, mills are erected, known by
the name of the Bridgewater mills, and a little fur-
ther down was a flour mill, called Birch's mill.
From the island upwards there was a line of float-
ing timbers, so fixed as to turn into the mill stream
logs coming down singly from the Chippawa, along
the left bank. It was afterwards found more safe
to float the logs down in small rafts.
These mills (Bridgewater) were burned by the
American troops after Lundy's Lane battle.
Where one of the Bridgewater mills stood, near
the place of the flume, there is a burning spring,
known before the mill was erected and now open
to view. It emits a vapour of some bituminous or
combustible quality. A candle applied near the
water excites a flame, which burns for some minutes.
The blaze is clearly perceptible in the day time,
and is said to be much more visible in the night.
It is also said, by those who have made experiments
more leisurely than I had an opportunity of wit-
nessing, that it will produce such a degree of heat
as to cause water placed over it, in a suitable vessel,
to steam and even to boil.
66 SKETCHES OF
By Birch's mill seat, there are several houses on
a flat low meadow between the water's edge and the
high bank. At this spot you have a romantic, but
too close a view of the rapids. In appearance they
are thought to resemble those of the Longe sault
in the St. Lawrence near Cornwall.
Ascending the bank again, you pass along the
road, which as you come against the falls diverges
to the left. You leave it and turn to the right.
From the high banks you have various but partial
and imperfect views of the falls. To see them ad-
vantageously it is necessary to go down a muddy
winding, weedy ravine, to the Table rock, nearly
100 feet lower than the upper bank. This rocky
platform spreads to the extent of a quarter of an
acre or more*. It projects over the cavern below
the cataract, and runs up to the side of the preci-
pice, which you can approach so near as to wash
your hands in the water a few feet above it. It is
nearly on a level with the top of the mass of water
immediately above the great pitch. It is supposed
to be a part of the very ledge over which the water
is precipitated, but which is worn down a number
of feet below its original level.
The Table rock is checkered with a variety of
seams and fissures, some of them wide enough to
admit a man's hand. Innumerable names and ini-
tials of visitors are inscribed on it, many of them
with the dates of their visits.
* A large piece of this projecting rock gave way in autumn,
1818, and fell into the river.— R. G.
UPPER CANADA. 67
By a plumb line let down over its edge, it has
been ascertained to be 172 feet high. It requires
some fortitude to venture to the margin and look
down into the abyss beneath.
The Table rock has been esteemed the most eligi-
ble position for viewing the cataract. In some re-
spects it is; but the stupendous object is too near
to have its full effect. Besides, it is not sufficiently
in front. The still-house, on the same level, but
further down the brink of the river, is a better
station, being more distant and less lateral. No
description or drawing can give an adequate idea
of this wonder of nature.
The sheet of falling water is divided by an island
called Goat island, which extends from the preci-
pice half a mile upward, and has a sand bar extend-
ing still higher up, by means of which, in seasons
of low water, the island is approachable from the
,east shore*. At the foot of this island are several
rocks, lying scattered near the edge of the water,
as if they had been broken off and tumbled down
from the ledge.
The main volume of water is west of the island.
The ledge is there worn, by the force of the stream,
into a curve resembling the shape of a horse shoe;
* This description is apt to create mistake. The island is ap-
proachable by a boat put off from Schlosser, and managed with
great care, so as to drop down on the upper part of the island.
It is now accessible by a bridge thrown over a little way above
the American fall. At no season does the water sink more than
two feet. Goat island contains about 80 acres of good land. — R. G.
F2
68 SKETCHES OF
from which circumstance it has acquired the name
of the Horse Shoe fall. The toe of the shoe how-
ever is now an angle, rather than a curve, but th/e
inhabitants and early visitors affirm, that it was
formerly more round, and has gradually assumed
its present angular form within their recollection.
The ledge of this fall is also worn so deep, that the
sheet of water passing over it is supposed to be at
least 10 feet thicker than on the other fall.
That portion of the cataract which lies east of the
island, is called the American or Fort Schlosser fall.
The last name is derived from a settlement on the
eastern shore, which though never much fortified,
has long been known as Fort Schlosser.
The eastern limb of the island is separated into
a little island, by a small channel of water passing
through and forming a distinct spout. This narrow
cascade has been dignified with the name of the
Montmorency fall, in allusion to the celebrated ca-
taract of that name just below Quebec.
To a spectator standing on the Table rock, or at
the still-house, the ledge of the island, and of the
American fall, appears nearly in a continued strait
line. But I observed certain stripes which looked
like ridges, in the falling mass of water, distinguish-
able by different lines of colours running from the
top to the bottom. Whence I concluded that the
ledge must be serrated ; and I afterwards found
that when viewed from the eastern bank, it is
clearly seen to be indented and somewhat curved.
The width of the river at the falls, including the
islands and following the curvatures of the ledge,
UPPER CANADA. 69
may be a mile, though a direct line across would
be considerably short of that distance.
The eastern fall appears to the eye about a quar-
ter as wide as the western ; but probably does not
discharge a tenth part of the water.
The perpendicular height of the ledge of the
Horse Shoe fall, is 150 feet ; that of the Fort Schlos-
ser fall more than 160. "the water however does
not fall perpendicularly. It is governed by the
general law of projectile bodies, and descends in a
parabolic curve.
The chasm below the falls is 200 feet deep, and
not half a mile wide : and further down it becomes
still narrower.
Viewed from any station, the colour of the falling
water varies in different points of the falls. It is
white, yellow, brown, blue, and green of various
shades, according to the angles of vision.
The dashing, whirling, and agitation in the
gulf, into which the water is precipitated, are
indescribable. The foam rises in various and per-
petually varying columns. Near the western border
it ascends in spherical figures, which burst and
spread, and are succeeded by new spheres, exhibit-
ing variations of all the prismatic colours. The
mist rises into a cloud, which moves with the wind.
The spray descends like a misty shower of rain.
The area on which it falls, varies according to the
direction of the wind. In the winter it is said to
be congealed on the trees and bushes, so as to exhi-
bit a beautiful crystalline appearance.
When the sun is in the right direction there is a
rainbow. While I was viewing it from the Table
70 SKETCHES OF
rock, the sun shone brightly just above the western
horizon. The interior arch of the bow was entire,
though a section of it near the northern limit was
faint; but the colours even there were discernible;
and from the summit to the other limit, they were
brilliant. Part of an exterior arch also was visible.
About half a mile below the falls, you may
descend beneath the cliff, and pass up to the very
precipice. The descent is by a ladder of 36 rounds
and 45 feet in length. It formerly was by the
trunk of a tree, the limbs of which were trimmed
into steps on each side. At the foot of the ladder
you land, on a sloping pile of earth and broken
stones, which appear to be fragments crumbled
down from the cliff, and scattered along towards
the water's edg-e. The passagre is tedious. In some
O JT O
places it is difficult, and attended with some danger
of tumbling or sliding down to the water. You
can make your way along the strand, or higher up
near the cliff. As you approach the fall, you pass
under the Table rock, which projects 40 or 50
feet beyond its base, and forms a rude cavern.
Water drips from the crevices. It is possible to
proceed beyond, but not directly behind the edge
of the sheet of falling water. You can look diagon-
ally through it, and downwards into the abyss. A
wind issues, not uniformly, but in irregular puffs or
blasts.
A traveller, who has published his remarks, ob-
serves, that a stone thrown in is perceptibly resisted
by the air ; I made the experiment, but perceived
no such resistance.
Another traveller mentions that his sight was
UPPER CANADA. 71.
affected, almost to blindness. The only effect of
that nature I was sensible of, was a sensation of
dizziness, on looking steadily for some time upwards,
or in a diagonal direction through the falling
stream. The shower of spray wets through a broad
cloth coat in a few minutes. Upon attempting to
converse with my guide, I found it difficult to hear
or be heard amidst the stunning noise. It is im-
possible, I believe, to stand there without some
sense of danger. The scene is awful and sublime.
The novelty of the situation, the spray, the foam,
the roar, the wind, the weight of the rushing tor-
rent, the concussion of the waters, the gulf beneath,
the impending rocks, the tremulous motion of the
air, and the real or imaginary shaking of every
thing around you; — all these overwhelm the senses
and the imagination. Their combined impression
is beyond the power of description.
As I traced my steps back to the ladder, I turned
and stopped to survey the falls from several points
beneath the cliff. The prospect of the descending
water, the foam or the mist is not so striking here
as it is from the stations on the first bank.
The Table rock, and the other rocks which form
the cliff, appear to be a mixture of calcareous and
siliceous particles. There are some distinct streaks
and lumps of lime stone and flint stone, united in
the same mass.
Among the broken stones which line the margin of
the water, there are concretions of a whitish earthy
substance, which my guide represented to be medi-
cinal, and which is vulgarly supposed to be produced
72 SKETCHES OF
by the foam. I took it to be gypsum formed by
the operation of some mineral acid, exuding1 from
the crevices, and passing- over lime stone rocks.
But I did not preserve any specimen for experiment,
and do not know that it has been analyzed*.
I observed several pieces of timber which appeared
to have been bruised and battered in the rapids and
falls, and washed up in that state. There were
also bones and carcasses of animals washed up,
apparently at different times, upon the strand.
My guide assured me that in one place, not far
below the falls, the water is so still that it may be
passed in a skiff with safety, though not without
some difficulty in climbing the opposite bankf.
As I ascended the bank, it occurred that a much
more easy passage to the cavern might be formed,
by blasting away some rocks near the falls, so as to
admit a set of steps in the common form of stairs.
The expense would be trifling compared with
the accommodation of visitors, the number of whom
is already very considerable, and annually increasing.
But, perhaps, the intermixture of artificial aids,
might render the scene less interesting than it is in
its present state. Every thing is now rude, ro-
mantic, sublime, and original. To gratify taste
any obstacle is surmounted, not only without re-
luctance but with ardour. In the pursuit 6f amuse-
* I am inclined to think that the substance spoken of is
gypsum, washed from a natural bed, and become perforated and
irregular in its form, from the action of the water. — R. G.
t On the American side, there is now erected a staircase, and
the ferry is perfectly safe.— R. G.
TJi»PER CANADA. 73
ment, or the satisfaction of curiosity, we willingly
encounter fatigues which would be irksome, if not
intolerable, in the prosecution of ordinary business.
The sound of the great Falls is audible at various
distances, according to the state of the air and the
course of the wind. It is frequently heard at Fort
George and Niagara, and at Fort Erie. I heard it
distinctly at Buffalo, a distance of 1 8 miles.
The view of the falls from the New York side,
either on the bank or under the cliff, is not so ad-
vantageous as on the Canada side.
From the Queenston road, three quarters of a
mile north of the falls, a road called Lundy's lane,
from the name of one of the first settlers, diverges
westward and passes by an old church over an
eminence of ground. On and near this road
a memorable battle was fought, July 25, 1814,
between the British and American armies. It is
known in Canada by the description of the battle
of Lundy's lane; but in the United States it is
described as the battle of Bridge water, in reference
to the mills at the rapids, two miles distant, or
perhaps from an erroneous supposition that that was
the name of the township, which however is Stam-
ford. It might with greater propriety have been
styled the battle of Niagara Falls. The action began
a little after six o'clock in the afternoon, in the skirt
of a thin wood south east of the church, between
the British troops and General Scott's American
brigade. The former were posted in the lane by
General Drummond, who, with a reinforcement,
met General Rial! retreating. The latter com-
74 SKETCHES OF
menced the attack, as they advanced out of the
wood. After a steady and very animated fire of
more than an hour, in full day light, on an open
field, General Scott was reinforced by General
Brown, who thenceforward commanded in person.
About nine o'clock Colonel Scott arrived, with a
second British reinforcement. The sanguinary con-
flict was maintained with persevering obstinacy and
uncommon efforts of heroism, until eleven o'clock.
Amidst the darkness of the night neither army
could be kept in a regular line, but separate corps
were engaged in different parts of the field ; some
confusion and mistakes occurred. A number of
charges were attempted on both sides, with various
success. General Scott's brigade made two in-
effectual attempts. Colonel Miller, at the head of
his regiment, charged the British artillery, which
was planted on the eminence by the church, and
carried it. The British line made three vigorous
but unsuccessful efforts to regain their artillery.
The carnage was dreadful. Both armies were now
exhausted, and a large proportion of them incapable
of further exertion. General Riall was wounded
and taken prisoner. General Drummond received
a severe wound, but kept the field. Generals
Brown and Scott were both disabled by wounds ;
and the command on that side devolved on General
Ripley, who, in pursuance of General Brown's
instructions, collected the wounded and withdrew
his troops to their camp. He was not able however
to secure the captured cannon; but left them in
possession of the British. Captain Glew of the
UPPER CANADA. 75
41st, with two companies, having1 fallen in with
and dispersed the American rear guard, and taken
possession of "the artillery, the British line re-
mained near the battle ground through the night.
Both parties claimed the palm of victory.
Next morning, General Ripley, with the rem-
nant of his army, advanced again from his camp to
the bloody scene, where he found his enemy drawn
up in a line ready to receive him. He did not think
it prudent to renew the action ; and returned to
Chippawa, but was not pursued. He continued
his march to Fort Erie, where he fortified himself
and prepared for a siege. General Gains, a senior
officer, joined the army, and the operations already
related ensued.
About three miles below the falls there is a stu-
pendous vortex, known by the name of the whirl-
pool, formed by the sudden turn of the river round
a bluff. The water is agitated to such a degree,
that a mist arises, which can be seen at a consider-
able distance*. Trees and sticks of timber are
whirled round, and almost erected on one end, then
turned and plunged again into the foaming eddy.
The chasm or bed of the river is walled by steep
irregular cliffs, nearly or quite perpendicular, and
in some places even jutting over. It extends more
than seven miles northward to the slope, from the
upper to the lower country ; the former being on a
level with the banks of lake Erie, the latter with
* This I think must be a mistake. Having repeatedly seen
the whirlpool, I never perceived a mist. Mr. Heriot speaks of
a fall here 50 feet high, which is quite an exaggeration.-— R. G,
76 SKETCHES Otf
those of Ontario. On the brink of this slope, at
Queenston Heights, the traveller has a prospect less
sublime, but more beautiful than that of the falls.
In front to the north is the Ontario, expanding- its
shores like a sea. The intervening space of seven
miles has the appearance of a long meadow, through
which the Niagara flows with a lively current,
making two elbows on each side in its meandering
course to the lake. In a valley at his feet on the
left bank of the river, he sees the village of
Queenston, on the right bank the village of Lewis-
town. The river appears to issue from a cavern,
the mouth and sides of the chasm being concealed
from the view.
This most extraordinary chasm has many strong
indications of having been excavated by the action
of the water pouring down the precipice, washing
away the earth, and undermining and wearing off
the rocks. Probably the cataract commenced at
this spot, being formed by the natural slope of the
country, which here crosses the river. By the
incessant operation of ages, it has progressed up-
wards to its present site. This has become the
prevailing belief of the inhabitants, the oldest of
whom think they can perceive some progress in
their time. The ledge they are confident is altered
in shape and situation. Rocks which they once
used to see there, and which they distinctly recol-
lect, have disappeared ; and the great pitch itself
is in their opinion several paces further south, than
it was when they first saw it.
If this opinion is correct, it will be confirmed
UPPER CANADA. 77
by accurate observations. It is indeed a century
and a half since the cataract of Niagara was dis-
covered, and described as one of the wonders of the
world. But early travellers were not exact and
careful in their notes of the state of the falls. It
is now visited by Europeans and Americans, by
geographers and philosophers, for the purposes of
science, as well as by annual parties of fashion,
from motives of curiosity and amusement. The
country around on both sides is settled, and the
attention of the inhabitants and visitants is pointed
to this interesting question. Every perceptible
alteration it is to be hoped will be noticed and
recorded.
The ridge which forms the heights of Queenston,
runs westward and winds round the head of the
lake. A swell of it, twelve miles west of the river,
is called the Short Hills, where a spectator can
have a view of the two lakes from the same stand*.
The ridge he stands on is an irregular off-set, be-
tween the two great natural parterres, or plains
of Lakes Erie and Ontario.
Queenston Heights is a commanding military
station, now defended by entrenchments and bat-
teries. In the early period of the late war, it was
* The swell here spoken of lies south of the slope two or
three miles, and is called the Ridge. It is an insulated hill, dis-
tinct from the mountain, and composed of different materials. It
is the highest ground in the Province : I think about 500 feet.
The Sfiort-hills is a district of country five or six miles square,
containing this and som$ pjther sjnajl frills.— JR. Cr.
78 SKETCHES OF
slightly fortified. On the 13th October, 1812,
General Rensselair, commanding the United States
forces on their Niagara frontier, formed an expedi-
tion against it. In the morning a party of militia
embarked in boats at Lewistown, and, in the face
of a most deadly fire, notwithstanding the embar-
rassment of the eddies, effected a landing. The
attack was led by Colonel Solomon Van Rensselair,
Adjutant General of the New York militia, who soon
after landing was severely wounded; yet with great
presence of mind, although scarcely able to stand,
animated his officers and men to advance and storm
the battery on the heights.
Other boats followed under the command of
General Wads worth, of the New York militia ; and
they succeeded in gaining possession of the village.
General Brock, president of the province, and
commander of the forces in it, arrived in haste from
Fort George, and without waiting for a reinforce-
ment, marching rapidly after him, put himself at
the head of two companies, and gallantly led them
up the hill against a superior force. He was soon
killed with a musket ball, and his aid-de-camp,
Lieutenant-Colonel M'Donnel, Attorney-General
of the province, mortally wounded. The militia
remaining at Lewistown, not being obliged by law to
pass the limits of the United States, could not be
prevailed upon by General Van Renssellair, to
cross over and assist in securing the advantages
already obtained. In the course of the day General
Sheaffe arrived and succeeded to the command left
vacant by the lamented death of General Brock.
2
UPPER CANADA. 79
Having- collected all his reinforcement of regulars,
militia and Indians, and formed them on a field
west of the village, he made so judicious and spirit-
ed an attack on the Americans, that they capitulated
and surrendered, to the number of 386 regulars
and 378 militia. In imitation of General Brock's
example at Detroit, General Sheaffe retained the
regular troops as prisoners, but dismissed the mili-
tia on parole.
Four miles west of Queenston is the village of
St. David's, which was for some time the head quar-
ters of the British army in 1813, and of the
American army in 1814. A number of buildings
in this settlement were burned by the Americans.
The officer who ordered the burning was dismissed
from the service by General Brown.
The village of Queenston is in the southern part
of the township of Niagara. It is the lower landing
for the portage round the falls. Amidst the sur-
rounding desolations of war, this place was pre-
served from destruction, and is now in a flourishing
state, having added to its former business a por-
tion of what used to center at Niagara. The por-
tage from Queenston to Ghippawa is ten miles ; but
the receiving and forwarding merchant, generally
transports merchandise the whole distance up to
Fort Erie, part of the way in waggons and the rest
in boats.
The portage on the New York side is from Lewis-
town to Schlosser, between which places a canal
has been proposed to be formed. The distance is
said to be rather less than from Queenston to Chip-
80 SKETCHES OF
pawa. After the burning- of Niagara, Lewistown
was taken and burned, December 18th, 1813. It
is principally rebuilt, and begins to flourish again.
Queenston and Lewistown are rivals in commerce.
Both of them have good river harbours. Indeed
the whole river for seven miles down, to its mouth,
may be considered one continued harbour. The
shore is bold, requiring only a short wharfage for
vessels to load and unload. Though the current is
swift in the channel, an eddy near each shore aids
vessels and boats in passing up. This is the head of
navigation, whence vessels sail to any port .on the
lake, and down the St. Lawrence to Ogdensburgh
and Prescott.
The Niagara in general, and especially the port-
age, appears to be a busy, bustling scene. The
connected commerce of the two lakes is compressed
into a narrow compass, in this intermediate com-
munication, which is thus rendered a place of very
considerable activity. Besides the labour of loading
and unloading, the carriage of goods by land is
not only attended with more trouble, but exhibits
an appearance of more commercial property and
business, than the transportation of the same mer-
chandise by water.1
The town, as well as township of Niagara, was
originally named Newark ; but in 1 798 the name
was changed by law. Still it is generally but
erroneously described by its old name. It is situ-
ated on the left bank of the river, and extends up
the lake shore westerly, the whole width of a town-
ship. The angle formed by the river and lake is
UPPER CANADA. 81
denominated Missassaga Point, and sometimes the
Light House Point, from the light house standing
near it. The fortification erected there is called
Fort Missassaga. Fort George is more than a mile
higher up the river. In pursuance of the treaty of
1794, the garrison was moved over from the old
fort on the other side of the river and stationed
here, and the works were strengthened at the
commencement of hostilities. On the 27th May,
1813, General Dearborn and Commodore Chauncey
made a combined attack upon this important fort.
Their troops landed on the lake shore, at Two
Mile creek. The advance was led by Colonel
Scott and Major Forsyth. The landing was dis-
puted by the British troops, under General Vin-
cent, who had marched out of the fort and ad-
vanced to the bank. But Commodore Chauncey had
stationed several schooners, in such positions as to
silence a battery situated near the Two Mile creek,
and to sweep the bank with canister and grape
shot. Thus effectually covered, the boats safely
reached the shore. The troops landed, and mount-
ing the bank, immediately formed and pressed
forward. The British line, already thrown into
some confusion, by the raking fire from the ship-
ping, gave way and were pursued. In the mean
time the batteries on the other side of the river,
together with some of the ships, playing upon Fort
George, rendered it untenable. Instead therefore
of entering and defending it, General Vincent re-
treated into the rear of the fort, and being thus
overpowered and driven from his position, by a
G
82 SKETCHES OP
superior force, directed his retreat towards the head
of the lake, to concentrate his forces, rally the mili-
tia, and wait for reinforcements. The harmonious
arrangements and co-operation of General Dear-
born, and Commodore Chauncey, on this occasion,
as well as at York, have been spoken of in terms of
high commendation. Fort George remained under
the flag of the United States, through the cam-
paign, though invested some of the time by the
British troops, under General De Rottenburgh, who
took a position extending from St. David's to Four
Mile creek. General Vincent, who succeeded him,
retired to Burlington upon the arrival of a part of
General Harrison's army. On the first of Decem-
ber, General Wilkinson having drawn most of the
American forces to Sacket's harbour, to join in his
expedition down the St. Lawrence, the command of
Fort George devolved on General M'Clure of the
New York Militia, who, on the 10th of that month,
abandoned the fort and set fire to the town of Nia-
gara. This barbarous measure, aggravated by the
circumstances of the season of the year and the
time of the day, he endeavoured to justify upon the
principle of preventing his enemy from using the
houses as barracks for their garrison. It appeared
however that his orders instructed only to burn the
adjacent houses, if it should be necessary for the
defence of the fort. The Government of the United
States disapproved his conduct, and declared it
unauthorized.
The village thus destroyed, contained two churches,
a district school, and nearly 100 dwelling houses,
tJPPER CANADA. 83
besides offices, stores, and shops. Its situation
was beautiful, fronting* the river, handsomely ele-
vated above the water, and commanding- a noble
prospect. The streets were laid out at rig-lit an-
gles. It had been the seat of the Provincial Go-
vernment, and was the place of the courts of jus-
tice for Niagara district. The court house and gaol
had been demolished by hot shot from the other
shore, on the day of the battle of Queenston. In
August, 1815, very few of the houses were rebuilt,
though considerable preparations were made for re-
building.
This wanton destruction of Niagara occasioned
a severe retaliation upon all the villages on the New
York side of the line.
Opposite to Missassaga stands the old Fort Nia-
gara. It was built by the French, in 1751, and
taken from them by Sir William Johnson in 1759.
At the close of the revolutionary war, it was pos-
sessed by the British ; and though by the terms of
the treaty, it fell to the United States, it was not
delivered into their possession until 1795. Soon
after General M'Clure's evacuation of Fort George,
Lieutenant-Colonel Murray crossed the river in the
night, and at four o'clock in the morning of De-
cember 19, 1813, surprised the garrison of Nia-
gara, and took the fort by storm. It remained in
British possession through the remainder of the war,
and at the peace was restored. The mouth of the
Niagara is in lat. 43° 15' 47" north, and long. 78° 25'
west. The point on the right bank projects farther
into the lake, than Missassaga point on the left bank*
G2
&f SKETCHES OS*
There are two bars at the outlet of the river. Off
the inner bar, the depth of water is 18 feet; on the
outer 24. The last is said to be affected and varied
by the winds and swells of the lake.
West of the Niagara, a number of streams enter
the lake from the south. They are denominated
according- to their reputed distances; the Two
Mile creek, the Four, the Twelve, the Twenty, the
Forty Mile creek, &c. Near the one last mentioned,
on the 5th of June, 1813, the American army under
General Lewis, halted for the night on their march
towards Burlington. General Vincent, who was at
a small distance on his retreat, being informed of
their situation, surprised them before morning in
their camp ; took Generals Winder and Chandler
prisoners ; and though not able to make a regular
stand against General Lewis's superior force, yet,
by thus anticipating his attack, compelled him to
return to Fort George, without accomplishing the
object of his expedition. General Vincent's dis-
patch gave Lieutenant-Colonel Harvey the credit
of this well-planned and well-executed enterprise.
The Beaver Dam also in this district is entitled
to historical notice, as the place where Lieutenant-
Colonel Boersler, with a battalion of General Dear-
born's army, on the 21st of June, 1813, surrendered
to an inferior British and Indian force. After
some skirmishing, Lieutenant Fitz-Gibbon, who
commanded the small party of regulars and Indians,
bearing a flag in the name of a field officer, whom
he represented to be at hand with his regiment, and
magnifying the strength of the Indians, demanded
UPPER CANADA. 85
a surrender on peril of Indian severities, in case of
refusal. By this negotiation he had the address to
detain Colonel Boersler, until the Indians passed
round into his rear, and spread themselves in the
woods, in such a manner, as to exhibit the appear-
ance of a very formidable number. The stratagem
succeeded. Colonel Boersler, supposing himself
surrounded by an irresistible force, capitulated,
but had the mortification to find he had been
deceived.
The length of lake Ontario is estimated at 175
miles, in a direction from south west to north east,
parallel, but not coinciding with lake Erie. Its
shape is elliptical. Its breadth differs at different
points. From York to Niagara it is 35 miles ; from.
Presque isle to Gennessee river, 60 miles; from
Ernest Town to Oswego, 55 miles ; and from
Kingston to Sacket's harbour, round the head of
Wolfe island, 36 miles.
The water is of such depth, that, for a consider-
able space no soundings are found. Different from
the water of the Ohio and Mississippi, which is
turbid, that of the great lakes, and their river the
St. Lawrence, is limpid and pure, except when
intermixed with particles of earth from the shores,
by the agitation of winds. It is used for drink,
and also for washing, though it is not so soft and
suitable for the solution of soap as rain water.
Near the shores of lake Ontario, for a few days
in June, the surface of the water is annually covered
with a yellowish scum, which renders it unfit for
drinking or culinary uses. Of this phenomenon
86 SKETCHES OF
various causes are vulgarly assigned ; but as none
of them appear satisfactory, I merely state the fact,
without pretending- to account for it philosophi-
cally.
In summer, also, the lake water by the shores is
too warm to be agreeable to the taste ; but, by being
placed during the night in a cellar, it acquires a
good degree of coolness.
The river St. Lawrence is not overspread with
nocturnal fogs as the Ohio frequently is; nor is
there, in its vicinity, such a difference between the
temperature of the day and the night.
The shore of the lake in general is covered with
gravel, consisting principally of small, thin pieces
of limestone, wont round and smooth, by the
friction occasioned by the motion of the water.
This gravel is an excellent material for the forma-
tion of roads. It is not harsh like the pounded
stones of which Pennsylvania turnpikes are made;
and when consolidated with the clayey soil which
generally abounds along the fchore, it is not movable
under the feet. It is washed up in ridges, of rods
and even of miles in length. In some places it
lies on a level, until the interstices are filled with
the finer particles washed off by friction, and the
whole mass is cemented and concreted into hori-
zontal strata of limestone ; some of which may be
seen in an imperfect state of concretion, the sur-
face being still rough with adhering gravel stones.
Others contain muscle shells, clearly discernible,
although perfectly enclosed, and other substances,
or the moulds of substances, which have decayed
UPPER CANADA. 87
and left their cavities to be filled by subsequent and
distinguishable concretions of limestone particles.
The river St. Lawrence, and the north easterly
part of the lake, including* Ernest Town sound,
and the bay of Quinte, on the Canada shore, and
Chaumont bay, Sacket's harbour, Oswego, &c. on
the New York side, are generally frozen over in the
winter. Passengers cross with horses and sleighs,
from Kingston to Gravelly point. The channel,
however, on the south side of Wolfe island, is seldom
frozen over very strongly, and the ice lasts there
but a short time, so as to be passable. Almost
every winter, teams and persons are lost in at-
tempting to pass. The lake is never closed with
ice, except at the east end, in the bays, and near
the shores. Lake Erie is frozen still less. Huron
and Michigan, especially the northern parts of
them, rather more, and Superior to the distance in
some places of seventy miles from its shores.
There is this difference between lakes Erie and
Ontario : the islands of the former, as we have
already noticed, are at the south western end;
those of the latter at the north eastern end.
At the head, or south west end of lake On-
tario, there is no good harbour. Burlington bay
is a small lake, separated from the main lake, by a
sandy beach, which extends five miles from Saltfleet
on the south, to Nelson on the north, with a small
outlet or creek, running from the bay across the
beach, into the lake, and having a bridge over it.
On the west of the bay, and divided from it by a
promontory, stretching from south to north, almost
88 SKETCHES OF
across the bay, is a marsh, or small marshy lake,
named Coot's Paradise, distinguished as a place of
game. The beach, the bay, the promontory, and
marsh, form as romantic a situation perhaps as any
in America. Adjoining the marsh is a tract of
land, reserved by government for the site of a
town. Burlington heights were fortified and gar-
risoned during the late war.
The land road, from Niagara, round the head of
the lake to York, is about ninety miles, crossing
the rivers Credit, Tobicocke, Humber, and several
smaller streams, all of them generally, and the
Credit in particular, abounding with fish. Burling-
ton beach is half way.
Near this place there was a tavern built, at the
expense of the crown. In the early period of the
last war, it occasionally accommodated troops as
they passed. But in May, 1813, it was burned by
the Americans.
York, which is the seat of the provincial govern*
ment, is in lat. 43° 35' north, a little west of the
meridian of Niagara. It is beautifully situated on
a bay or harbour, extending nearly two miles from
the west to the east side of the town, and almost
inclosed by a peninsula, which projects a corres-
ponding distance from east to west, without the
basin of the harbour. The western extremity of
the peninsula is Gibraltar point, where are public
stores and block-houses. On the highest ground,
near the point, a light-house of about seventy feet
elevation is erected. On the main land, opposite
to the point, is the garrison, where was also the
UPPER CANADA. 89
lieutenant-governor's residence. Two miles east,
near the head of the harbour, were two wings of
the parliament house, the main edifice not being
yet erected. They were built of brick, one story
high. The legislative council sat in one of them,
the house of representatives in the other. Being
burned by the Americans, their walls have been
repaired, and converted into barracks.
The town occupies the intervening space between
that site and the garrison. The harbour in front is
well secured, has safe anchorage, and is sufficiently
capacious to contain a considerable fleet. But the
shore is not bold, and no wharfs are yet built, except
one, which is an appendage of the new naval store-
houses. Vessels lie off at anchor, and load and
unload by boats. The entrance also into the harbour
is somewhat difficult ; but the light-house is de-
signed to remedy the difficulty. The Don empties
its waters into the head of the harbour, east of the
town; and two miles west of the garrison is the
mouth of the Humber, formerly named the Toronto,
a name which was applied to the bay. Both of these
rivers afford convenient mill seats.
The war w$s unpropitious to York. It* was twice
taken by the Americans. First by General Dearborn
and Commodore Chauncey, acting in concert, April
27, 1813. Their squadron took a position in front
of the harbour and the garrison, extending in a
line westward. They intended to land their troops
on an open field, the site of the old French fort
Toronto ; but the wind blowing heavily from the
east, the boats fell to the leeward. A detachment of
riflemen led by Major Forsyth, followed and sup-
90 SKETCHES OP
ported by a larger corps of infantry under General
Pike, amounting in all to 1700, landed in a wood
a little west of the intended landing place, and
about a mile and a half from the garrison. Their
landing was warmly contested by the British forces,
under the immediate command of General Sheaffe;
who, after an action of half an hour, was driven
from the wood, and compelled to retreat. Two
redoubts were carried; and General Pike, at the
head of his brigade, was advancing towards the
main work, when the explosion of a magazine ter-
minated his career, and killed and wounded a con-
siderable number of his men, and some of the rear
of the British troops. General Sheaffe having
destroyed a part of the military and naval stores,
and a ship on the stocks, moved off with his regular
troops. The militia then capitulated, and were
paroled. One armed schooner was captured.
Such of the public stores as could not be put on
board the American fleet, were destroyed or given
to the inhabitants. The flour and other provisions
were, by General Dearborn's order, distributed
among the poor people of the town and garrison.
A party of American sailors, without the orders
or knowledge of their commanders, set fire to the
two wings of the parliament house and consumed
them, with the adjoining clerk's offices and the
library and papers deposited there, under a pretence
of irritation, on account of a scalp, alleged to have
been found suspended as a trophy*. Commodore
. — __ = — —
* This statement that the burning was by some American
sailors, is the result of all my inquiries on the subject, though
UPPER CANADA. 91
Chauncey transmitted to the Secretary of the Navy,
*' A British standard, accompanied," as he stated in
his dispatch, "with the mace over which hung a
human scalp; these articles," he added, "weretakeri
from the parliament house, by one of my officers,
and presented to me." General Dearborn also
made a similar communication. It was doubtless
so represented to them ; and they believed the re-
presentation, or they would not have communicated
it to their government, and through them to the
nation. But according to the statement of a mem-
ber of the House of Representatives, who was
acquainted with the circumstances, they were
simply these. The scalp was sent as a curiosity,
enclosed in a letter from an officer of the army to
his friend, the clerk of the house. Upon opening
the letter, he and two or three others who happened
to be present, were disgusted at the sight, and he
threw the letter into an under drawer of his table,
among a parcel of old papers. There it was probably
found by some of the sailors, who imposed upon the
Captain Grafton, who commanded the American guard, in his
report declares that " upon discovering the fire, he hastened to
the place, and found some inhabitants standing near it : that he
asked them who had set the fire, their reply was, they did not
know; that there were no sailors or soldiers to be seen; and he
thought it as probable that some disaffected inhabitants had done
it, as that any of the American soldiers or sailors had been guilty
of disobeying the orders of their commanders." Notwithstanding
his opinion, it is an unquestionable fact, that the fire was set by
a number of Americans, supposed, from their appearance, to be
sailors, unattended by any officer.
92 SKETCHES OF
officers the fiction of its being- suspended over the
mace, as if placed there by public authority.
This explanation of a matter not very important
in itself, may, it is hoped, have a tendency to re-
move some of the effects of a misapprehension, which
created on one part a popular prejudice against the
government of this province, as having countenanced
the savage practice of scalping, and, on the other,
an impression that the American officers descended
to misrepresentation, for the purpose of exciting
such prejudices.
Neither the provincial government nor the com-
manders of the forces gave any bounty for scalps,
or any encouragement to the practice of taking* them.
The British officers and soldiers universally have a
strong abhorrence of that Indian custom.
General Dearborn's civil treatment of the public
authorities and inhabitants of York, was politely
acknowledged on their part, in a letter from Chief
Justice Scott to the American Adjutant General,
dated York, April 30, 1813, in which, after referring
to the General's orders and arrangements for re-
straining his soldiers, protecting the persons and
property of the inhabitants, and supporting the
magistrates, he says, " On the part of the magis-
trates of York, I gratefully acknowledge the humane
attention which has been paid by his Excellency to
the present situation of its inhabitants, by pursuing
a line of conduct so conducive to the protection of
a number of individuals, and so honourable to
himself."
Such mutual civilities accruing amidst the con-
UPPER CANADA. 98
flicts of arms, are worthy of notice and imitation,
as they reflect honour on both parties, and ha ^e a
tendency to mitigate the evils of war.
In the last of August, the same year, York was
visited again by Commodore Chauncey and Colonel
Scott, who landed without opposition, took a num-
ber of cannon and boats, and a quantity of provisions,
shot, shells, and other stores, and burnt the barracks
and public store-houses.
Yonge street is a military way, laid out by General
Simcoe when he was Lieutenant-Governor, and
opened by the troops under his command, in a di-
rect line, northerly, from York thirty-two miles
to Holland's river, whence the passage is easy into
lake Simcoe, and thence to Gloucester Bay, a good
harbour in lake Huron. A road has been opened
to Penetanguishene, where a settlement has been
commenced.
One great object of opening Yonge street, was
to shorten and facilitate the communication with
the north west; according to the calculation of the
late Surveyor General Smith, " Merchandise from
Montreal to Michilimackinac, may be sent this way
at ten or fifteen pounds less expence per ton, than
by the route of Ottawa river;" and it has been
represented to be equally preferable to the circuitous
route by the straits of Niagara and Detroit. For,
whether the goods come from Montreal, up the St.
Lawrence to Kingston; or from New York, up the
Hudson's and Mohawk rivers, and by the usual
passage to Oswego, they can be as easily forwarded
from either of those lake ports to York as to Niagara.
1
94 SKETCHES OF
The transportation over lake Huron to Michili-
mackinac, or to St. Joseph's, is as practicable from
Gloucester bay, as from the South bay communica-
ting with the river Sinclair; and the distance from
York to Gloucester is less by four or five hundred
miles, than from Niagara to the south bay of lake
Huron. The land carriage, however, by the Falls
of Niagara, is less than ten miles; whereas from
York to Gloucester, it is more than thirty. The
question of preference is still agitated by the respec-
tive partisans of these different routes, and seems
not yet decided by satisfactory experiment.
Presque isle or Newcastle harbour is in the town-
ship of Cramahe, more than half way from York to
Kingston. It is protected from winds, and almost
encircled by a peninsula, which projects in a curve
into the lake. The basin of water thus embayed
is of sufficient depth, and the shore is convenient
for a landing place. But the entrance into the
harbour, being not very direct and plain, requires
considerable care. The navigation from Presque
isle eastward along the shore, is attended with some
difficulty and danger, by reason of bays and points,
and the winds to which that coast is peculiarly
exposed.
The Bay of Quinte * enters between Fredericks-
burgh on the north, and Marysburgh on the south,
and extends westward in a very irregular fprm,
about fifty miles, leaving between it and the lake
a long forked peninsula, called Prince Edward,
* Pronounced Canty. . 9 UWil
UPPER CANADA. 95
containing* four townships. From the head of the
bay there is a carrying* place of a mile and a half,
over the isthmus into the lake, nine miles east of
Presque isle. Here it has been proposed, at some
future day, to cut a canal to connect the waters of
the bay and the lake; and a tract of adjoining1 land
was reserved for the purpose of aiding- the project.
At the north west angle of the bay, it receives
through the river Trent, after a circuitous route,
the waters of the Rice lake, which lies 40 miles
west, and with which there is a communication
from a chain of lakes, in a north westerly direction
towards lake Simcoe. At the mouth of this river,
in the township of Murray, is the best harbour in
the bay. Moira river, more commonly denomi-
nated Mjers^s creek, enters at a village of that name,
in the township of Thurlow. At the north east
point of the bay, between Fredericksburgh and
Richmond, the Ajapanee river falls in from the east.
On this river, amidst a flourishing- little village in
the rear of Fredericksburgh, are valuable mills,
said to be the best flour mills in the province.
Their value is enhanced by the facility with which
grain is conveyed to them, and the flour is transport-
ed to market by water. The opening which receives
the Appanee being at the south east angle of the
Mohawk Indian township, is known by the name
of Mohawk bay. One arm of the main bay, named
Hay bay, spreading easterly penetrates through
Adolphus town into Fredericksburgh. The bay of
Quinte has a considerable expansion of water south
of Thurlow, but is generally narrow, and throughout
96 SKETCHES OF
its whole extent of 50 miles, is navigable for any
vessels which commonly navigate the lake.
The peninsula of Prince Edward is indented with
coves and points of land, and contains two small
lakes, distinguished as East lake and West lake.
They are in the southern part of the peninsula, and
both of them communicate with the main lake.
East of the bay of Quinte is the harbour of
Ernest Town, in lat. 44° 10' north, and long. 75° 56'
west*. It is a broad open bay, of good depth, a
smooth bottom, and safe anchoring ground. The
access to it is free from sand bars and shoals. The
bank of the shore is even and gravelly, and of such
a descent, that a wharf of from fifty to a hundred
feet, is sufficient for vessels to lie along side of it
in safety. One such wharf has been some time in
use ; another has been begun ; and there are con-
venient sites for as many more as may be necessary
to accommodate the business of the village. The
harbour is sheltered by considerable projections of
land on each side. The force of heavy swells also
is broken, and the violence of winds and storms
I weakened, by Amherst island, once known as
L'Isle de Tonti, which lies in front, and extends
about ten miles, forming a sound of corresponding
length, and of the variable breadth of two or three
miles. The outlet at either end is safe. Vessels
sailing up the lake from Kingston, may pass through
* This is the latitude of Ernest Town, according to my own
observation ; but my means of taking it were not very perfect.
In general, I have adopted the reputed latitudes and longitudes
of places.
UPPER CANADA. 97
this sound, or keep without the island. Between
the east end and Gage island, there is an opening,
commonly described as the Lower Gap, and between
the west end and the peninsula of Prince Edward,
there is another opening of two or three miles,
called the Upper Gap, which is in front of the
entrance into the bay of Quinte. The sound is
usually bridged over with ice, from about the tenth
of January to the latter part of March.
The great road from Kingston to York divides at
Ernest Town. One branch passes on the north side
of the bay, crossing the Apanee on a bridge at the
mills, and the Trent by a ferry near its mouth.
The other continues on the lake shore, passing the
bay, by a ferry, from Adolphus Town over to the
peninsula of Prince Edward. They unite a little
west of the head of the bay.
Kingston is in lat. 44° 12' north, and long. 75° 41'
west, at the north east point of lake Ontario, and
the head of the St. Lawrence, on its north eastern
shore, opposite to Wolfe island. It occupies the
site of old Fort Frontenac, the ruins of which are
still to be seen, as are also the remains of a breast-
work, thrown up by the English under Colonel
Bradstreet. The harbour is on the east side of the
town, and is formed by a bay stretching up nor-
therly by the front of the town, and meeting the
waters of a river, on which, a few miles above, the
Kingston mills are erected. The west shore of the
bay is bold and suitable for wharfs, of which there
are already as many as ten, where vessels of any
burthen may lie in safety, and load and unload
H
98 SKETCHES OF
with convenience and ease. East of the bay the
land projects southward, a considerable distance, to
a point called Point Frederick, or Navy Point,
beyond which is Haldemand Cove, a deep basin of
water sheltered by this point, on the west, and
Point Henry on the east, and guarded against
south winds by Wolfe island in front. In this cove
the king's shipping lie, and on its western margin
are the royal dock yard, wharf, stores, &c. The
entrance into the cove is safe. The town harbour
has shoals; but vessels coming in, or going out,
may steer either to the right or left, and avoid
them.
In November, 1812, Commodore Chauncey, with
his small squadron, being then superior to the
British, chased the Royal George from the Ducks
through the Upper Gap, and the sound of Ernest
Town? into Kingston harbour, where he exchanged
a few shots with the batteries, and then sailed away
for Sacket's harbour, having captured two schooners
in the chase.
At the commencement of hostilities, Kingston
had a small garrison, accommodated with barracks,
but no fortification. In various successive stages of
the war, it was strengthened with much labour,
and great expense. A regular fort is constructed
at Missassaga Point ; and all other accessible points
are secured by batteries. The town is surrounded
with a line of block houses, and picketed in. The
old market is converted into a guard house. Ex-
tensive barracks are added to those heretofore
erected. The works at Navy Point are enlarged,
UPPER CANADA. 99
with the addition of batteries, magazines, and a
dock for ship building- on a la^ge scale. But the
principal fortress is at Point Henry, which com-
mands the town and harbour. Snake island, si-
tuated near the outlet into the open lake, is fortified,
and made a telegraphic station, to communicate
with a telegraph at Fort Henry.
Kingston is the military and naval head quarters
of the province ; and next to Quebec and Halifax,
it is the strongest post in all British America. As
to commercial business, it is the third town in the
Canadas, being inferior to none but Quebec and
Montreal.
From its situation, it is the natural depot of those
articles of commerce, which are transported over
the lake in vessels, and up and down the river in
boats. Here they meet and deposit, and exchange
their cargoes.
As a harbour, certainly, and perhaps in other
points of relation to navigation and commerce,
Kingston unites more advantages than any other
place, on either the Canada or New York side of
the lake. Of the former we have already taken a
cursory view. Let us now look to the south shore.
The first port of any importance east of Niagara,
is the mouth of Genessee river. It is the outlet of
a fertile and flourishing tract of country, which
will have much surplus produce to send to market;
but its situation will not accommodate the trade of
other districts surrounding the lake. Once or
twice in the last war, the British squadron looked
H 2
100 SKETCHES OF
into the mouth of this river, and took thence some
coasting" vessels, boats, and stores.
Pultneyville, further east, is subject to similar
disadvantages of situation. So is Sodus, a fine ca-
pacious basin of water, embayed by a ridge running
from the western angle, in a curve, and almost
surrounding the bay. The shores are somewhat
muddy ; and at its entrance there is a bar, over
which there is not sufficient depth of water for the
passage of large vessels. A small village named
Troopville, but more commonly called Sodus, is
situated on the peninsula, or ridge of land which
forms the harbour. It contained about thirty
buildings, among which were four large dwelling-
houses, one of them an elegant seat, built by the
agent of Sir William Pultney, the original pro-
prietor of the village, and four or five warehouses.
There was no public store. One of the inhabitants,
however, who was in the receiving and forwarding
line of business, occasionally received and forwarded
flour and other articles for the United States, on
the same terms as for private customers.
On the 20th June, 1813, the British lake fleet,
under Sir James L. Yeo, anchored off the bar, land-
ed a number of men, and took a few barrels of
flour, all that was there. The inhabitants generally
retired into the adjoining woods; but as the boats
were leaving the wharf, a number of them collected
and fired upon the last boat. Several men were
killed and wounded. The Commodore ordered the
landing party to return and set fire to the village,
which was accordingly done. The warehouses
UPPER CANADA. 101
were burnt, and all the dwelling houses of much
consequence, except a tavern, in which there was a
wounded man, supposed to be near expiring-. From
motives of humanity to him, that house was spared.
In August, 1815, I observed the village was par-
tially rebuilt.
A few miles further east still is Little Sodm, a
harbour similar to that of Sodus, but smaller.
Oswego, is in lat. 43° 20' and long. 75° 45'. It
is about 180 miles from Albany, at the end of a long
chain of inland navigation, with only 14 miles of
land carriage from New York. But it is not so
advantageously located for the trade of the St.
Lawrence, the great natural outlet to foreign mar-
kets, through which the imports also as well as the
exports of this lake must pass. Yet there is one
heavy article, Oiandago Salt, with which Oswego
supplies Upper Canada, together with Michilimac-
kinac, Detroit, and the northern coast of Ohio,
Pennsylvania, and those parts of the state of New
York adjacent to lakes Erie and Ontario.
At the entrance of the river there is a bar over
which large or heavily loaded vessels cannot pass.
As a military post, Oswego is well known in his-
tory. It was a British fort, built at an early period,
with a view to the command of the lake. In 1756,
the Marquis de Montcalm, at the head of a nu-
merous French army, took it by siege. In 1760,
General Amherst recovered it. During the Ameri-
can revolutionary war an unsuccessful expedition
was undertaken against it ; but it remained under
the British standard until the peace. By the treaty
of 1783, it fell within the United States. Still it
102 SKETCHES OF
was retained until after the treaty of 1794.
When it came into the possession of the United
States, it was suffered to lie unrepaired. Even
in the late war it was neglected. The village
is built on the other side of the river, and
the place of deposit of public stores was at the
falls 12 miles up the river. This last circumstance
accounts for the neglect of Fort Oswego. In 1813,
it was cannonaded without much effect by a British
squadron lying without the bar. This cannonade
was distinctly heard at Ernest Town, on the op-
posite side of the lake, a distance of 55 miles.
On the 5th of May, 1814, a considerable force
from Kingston, under the immediate command of
General Drummond, on board Commodore Yeo's
squadron, anchored before the mouth of the river.
A number of boats proceeded towards the shore,
with troops to ascertain by the American fire the
real points of defence. Those botits returned to the
ships ; and the whole stood off for better anchorage.
At day-break the next morning, the fleet approach-
ed again ; and the Wolf taking a po ition directly
in the front of the fort kept up a heavy fire, under
cover of which the troops effected a landing. They
were met by Colonel Mitchell, the American com-
manding officer, who, considering the fort to be
untenable, marched out towards the shore with his
corps of about 300 men. The action lasted half an
hour, when the Americans retreated up the river
towards the falls without re-entering the fort.
General Drummond next day burnt the barracks,
and re-embarked for Kingston, bringing away two
cannon, some small arms, and naval stores. But
UPPER CANADA. 103
the great object of the expedition, the capture of
the principal stores for the American fleet, was not
effected.
Hendersons harbour is the western part of a
bay which has Stony Point on the west and north
of it. It is a safe good harbour, capable of strong
defence, and accommodates the country round it ;
but is not rightly situated for the general commerce
of the lake. This last remark is applicable to se-
veral small rivers, which are navigable some dis-
tance for boats. One of them, Sandy Creek, which
enters on the west side of Stony Point, was render-
ed famous in the late war by an expedition under
Captain Popham of the Royal Navy, who with one
other Post Captain, six Lieutenants and about 180
sailors in a flotilla of four gun boats, three cutters,
and a gig, pursued into the creek some boats load-
ed with cannon and cables on their way from Os-
wego to Sacket's harbour. Being decoyed a mile
or two up the creek, they were ambuscaded and
taken prisoners, with a loss of 14 killed and 28
wounded, by a party of riflemen under Major
Apling and Captain Woolsey of the American navy.
This loss, though not great in numbers, was attended
with circumstances which were felt and regretted
by Sir James Yeo, who was then blockading Sacket's
harbour. He raised the blockade, and soon after
returned into port, leaving the American squadron
in possession of the lake, from July to October 1814.
Sacket's harbour, a few miles further east, is the
rival of Kingston as a naval port. It has suffi-
cient depth of water, good anchoring ground, and
104 SKETCHES OF
a bold shore, and is protected from the winds of the
lake by a narrow promontory projecting eastward,
and almost enclosing it. The peculiarity of its en-
trance is favourable to a defence against an invading
squadron. The village is placed south of the har-
bour. In addition to its natural strength it is de-
fended by military works. Fort Pike overlooks
the bay from the east. Fort Tompkins stands on the
west. Batteries extend further along the shores.
Its rear is guarded by Fort Chauncey, and a line of
block houses and batteries. It is the main station
of the naval force of the United States on the lake,
and the place of their principal ship building.
In the summer of 1812, Commodore Earl, with
the British squadron, sailed over to Sacket's har-
bour to destroy the brig Oneida ; but finding her
hauled into the inner harbour, and some of her
guns planted on the point, returned without mak-
ing the contemplated attempt.
While the works round the harbour were still in
an imperfect state, it was attacked by Sir George
Prevost, who seizing the favourable opportunity of
the absence of General Dearborn with his army,
and Commodore Chauncey with his fleet, on their
expedition to Niagara, embarked his troops, and
sailed from Kingston the 27th of May, 1813, the
very day of the capture of Fort George. By ad-
verse winds and other circumstances the attack was
delayed until the morning of the 29th, when under
cover of the ships and gun boats, about a thousand
men landed on a peninsula called Horse island, a
mile west of the harbour, Their landing was op-
UPPER CANADA. 105
posed by 500 militia, who were ordered by Gene-
ral Brown to lie close, and reserve their fire till they
could be sure of their object. But being1 undisci-
plined and unused to action, and their command-
ing- officer, Colonel Mills, being- killed, they fled in
disorder. The British column advanced through a
wood towards Fort Tompkins, where they were met
by Colonel Backus at the head of 400 regular troops
and some militia, assembled in haste from the neigh-
bouring towns. A sharp conflict ensued. Colonel
Backus was mortally wounded. An impression was
made upon his line ; and though his regulars still
maintained their ground, yet before General
Brown came up to his assistance with about 100
whom he had rallied of the party, dispersed at the
landing-, the militia attached to Colonel Backus's
command, retreated in to a road leading1 south west-
ward through a wood. Their marching- off in that
direction, while, the reg-ular troops yet stood firm,
had the appearance of a rapid, circuitous movement
to gain the rear of the British line, and cut off their
retreat. It was also understood that a regiment
of American troops under Lieutenant-Colonel Tutle,
were approaching and near at hand. At this criti-
cal moment Captain Gray, who led the British ad*
vanced corps, was killed, and General Prevost gave
the signal for the troops to retire, when, as they
believed, they were just on the point of carrying *
Fort Tompkins. Indeed the officer who had the
charge of Navy Point, supposing the fort already
lost, agreeable to his orders, in such an event, put
fire to a naval magazine, in which most of the
106 SKETCHES OF
stores recently captured at York had been deposit-
ed, and were now consumed. The British troops
were not annoyed in their retreat; but embarked
without molestation.
General Brown, who commanded in this defence,
was then a militia officer, residing at Brownville,
a distance of eight miles, and took the command
on the occasion, in consequence of a letter from
General Dearborn requesting it, seconded by the
request of Colonel Backus, the senior officer at the
harbour. The transactions of this interesting day
brought him into notice ; and soon afterwards he
received an appointment in the army.
At the close of the war the fortification of Sacket's
harbour was far inferior to that of Kingston.
Notwithstanding the peculiar advantages of
Sacket's harbour for naval defence, its local cir-
cumstances unfit it for commanding the commerce
of the lake.
Basin harbour, in Grenadier island, is well shel-
tered from storms, and is a good stopping place ;
but its insular situation is not adapted to commerce.
Cape Vincent, or Gravelly Point, on the south
side of the southern outlet of the lake, though very
advantageously situated in some respects, is too
much exposed to the rake of the winds, to admit
of a commercial competition with Kingston, which
possesses a corresponding relation to the northern
channel of the river. Gravelly Point had its share
of the devastations of war. The stores and some
other buildings there were burnt.
Vessels and boats from any of the ports on the
UPPER CANADA. 107
south shore, naturally pass down the river by Gra-
velly Point, in the channel south of Wolfe island.
They cannot touch at Kingston, and take the chan-
nel on the north side of that island, without a con-
siderable deviation from a direct coarse. But
Kingston is the route from all the places on the
north shore.
The commerce of the lake, after all, will not cen-
tre at any one point, but continue to be divided
among- a number.
The navigation of Ontario is more important than
that of any other of the lakes, as it is the medium
of more extensive and vital communication. It
was found to be so in the operations of the late war.
Larger sums were accordingly expended in pro-
viding means for its defence. The question of
superiority on lake Erie was settled by one decisive
action, as stated in the description of that lake.
A similar decision took place on lake Champlain.
But here, season after season was consumed in
progressive preparations. With the exception of
two or three partial encounters and running fights,
the war on this lake seemed to be a ship-building
competition. When the British squadron were
superior in strength, they sailed the lake without
interruption ; and the Americans kept their har-
bour, till, by the addition of new ships, they
attained the superiority. Then they came out, and
the British, in their turn, retired into port to wait
for the building of more ships. In this course of
proceeding, Kingston and Sacket's harbour were
alternately blockaded. The rival Commodores feel-
ing a weight of responsibility, acted with consum-
108 *\ SKETCHES OF
mate caution and address, being equally determined
to be sure of not risking1 an action with an inferior
force, or under disadvantageous circumstances.
Prudence is frequently more useful than enterprise ;
but it is not so popular a feature in a naval or
military character. Some people on each side
became impatient, and rather dissatisfied with these
national competitors for the command of the lake.
Before either of them could seize a favourable op-
portunity of attacking the other to advantage,
peace arrived, and found them both still engaged
in preparatory exertions, each having two large
ships then on the stocks. Previous to the war, the
merchant vessels were about equally divided ; but
at the conclusion of it, the major part of them were
in the American ports. A number have, by pur-
chase, been since transferred to Canada.
The balance of naval force is in favour of the
British. The two ships on the stocks at Kingston,
it is said, are to be launched and finished. Those
on the stocks at Sacket's harbour, are housed in
their unfinished state. One of them is represented
to be larger than any ship in the British navy, being
210 feet in length on her lower gun deck. That
the largest ships in the world should thus be built
on this interior lake of fresh water, at such a dis-
tance from the ocean, is an astonishing spectacle.
If peace should continue ten years they will all be
unfit for service.
Navigation by the force of steam, which has
proved so useful on the rivers, is about to be at-
tempted on this lake. A large steam boat of 150
feet keel, and of course about 170 feet deck, is
UPPER CANADA. 109
building at the village of Ernest Town, but prin-
cipally owned at Kingston. It is intended for
transportation as well as for passengers ; and if the
experiment should succeed on the rough water of the
open lake, this boat will navigate the whole extent of
the lake and river between Queenston and Prescott.
A steam boat, on a smaller scale and at less ex-
pence, is on the stocks at Sacket's harbour.
There is one also about to be built on lake Erie.
On lake Champlain, a steam boat has been some
time in operation, and forms part of the line of pas-
sage from Albany to Montreal.
As the St. Lawrence issues from the lake it is 12
miles wide, and is divided into two channels by
Wolfe island, formerly styled Grand or Long isle.
The south channel has been esteemed the deepest
and best, although the north is the widest. From
the town over to the island the ferry is three miles
and a half; across the island, seven miles ; and one
mile and a half from the island to Gravelly Point.
This is in the route from Kingston by Brownville
to Albany, in the state of New York, a distance of
220 miles.
There are several islands above and below. The
Ducks, so called from their distant appearance in
the water, lie a few miles west of Wolfe island, and
about 15 miles south X)f Amherst island. As you
ascend the river you pass many other small islands,
one cluster of which has the appellation of the
Thousand islands.
The river is navigable for schooners about 70 miles;
but their passage up is difficult, not so much because
110 SKETCHES OF
of the current or any particular obstruction in the
channel, as the state of the winds, which blow two
thirds of the summer season down stream ; and the
channel is too narrow to allow much scope for the
process of beating.
Attempts, nevertheless, are in operation, to establish
depots above the upper rapids, at Ogdensburgh on
the right bank, and Johnstown and Prescott on the
left bank, with a view to make those places, instead
of Kingston, the head of the Montreal Boat navigation.
Of the practicability and eventual success of these
experiments various opinions are formed, according
to the different interests and views of those who
reason on the subject. The application of the prin-
ciple of steam, to the navigation of the river and the
lake, may operate essentially in favour of the lower
ports.
From both shores of the lake, large quantities of
lumber, consisting chiefly of oak and pine timber
and staves, are annually carried down on rafts to
Montreal and Quebec. For a year or two the
market was overstocked, and of course losses and
embarrassments were incurred, and the business
received a temporary check. It is at all times a
business of considerable hazard.
The Gananoqui river is supplied from a lake of
that name, and another small lake further north,
and discharges its waters into the St. Lawrence in
Leeds, the second township below Kingston. At
its mouth there is an excellent harbour, the channel
being from 12 to 15 feet deep, and the current very
slow. Above the rapids it is navigated by boats.
UPPER CANADA. Ill
Its waters accommodate some valuable mills, and a
furnace for the manufacture of iron.
Early in the war with the United States, Ganano-
qui was visited by a party of volunteers from the other
shore, under the order of Captain Forsyth, who
routed the guard, took a number of prisoners and
arms, and burnt the barracks and public stores.
Grenadier island lies before the township of
Yonge, and leaves a channel so narrow that it is
from that circumstance called the Narrows.
Above Johnstown, on the New York shore, is the
village of Ogdensburgh, where Fort Osweigatchie
stood, on a river of the same name. The original
proprietors, and some of the settlers, being men of
capital and enterprise, commenced this village on
a regular plan, and introduced an elegant style of
building. It had a rapid extension of settlement
and business, exhibits a beautiful appearance, and
is still progressing with a fair prospect of com-
mercial prosperity, notwithstanding the interruption
of the war.
After the commencement of hostilities, it was
slightly fortified, and became a station for a small
military force. In the autumn of the first year of
the war, Colonel Lethbridge, who commanded at
Prescott, attempted to take it. His troops, in about
twenty boats, supported by two gun-boats, moved
up the river three quarters of a mile, then tacked
and stood over towards Ogdensburgh. As soon as
they changed their course, the batteries at Prescott
commenced firing across, to cover their landing.
When they reached the middle of the river, General
1
112 SKETCHES OF
Brown, who had hitherto reserved his fire, opened
his battery upon them with very considerable
effect. Two or three of the boats were shattered,
and they all returned to Prescott. This was the
first step of that military career in which success
so uniformly attended General Brown through the
war.
In the following winter, Lieutenant-Colonel
M'Donnell having then the command at Prescott,
planned and executed another attack. For several
days he had exercised his troops on the ice near
the shore, and again paraded them there, apparently
for the same purpose, but prepared for an assault.
His progress towards Ogdensburgh was not noticed
there until he was marching on a quick step and
pushing for the shore. Captain Forsyth, the com-
manding officer, then rallied his men, formed them
in haste, and attempted a defence ; but being un-
prepared and inferior in strength, he was driven
from his position, and forced to retreat. Colonel
M'Donneli took possession of the village, and brought
over to Prescott the cannon and stores found in it.
Ogdensburgh was not occupied as a military sta-
tion any more during the war.
The success which has attended the commercial
establishment at this stage of the river, on the
New York side, seems to have kindled a spark of
ambition on the opposite shore. A settlement
was begun before the late war, at a point in the
township of Augusta, named Prescott, advantage-
ously situated for the purpose ; and although it is
yet in its infancy, considerable arrangements are
2
UPPER CANADA. 113
said to be formed for establishing and supporting
it as a stand for the forwarding business of the
Canadian side of the lake and river. In the pro-
gress of the war Prescott was fortified. The forti-
fication is honoured with the name of Fort Wel-
lington. It has a garrison of regular troops, and
is an important military post, commanding the
river and the opposite town of Ogdensburgh.
The uppermost rapid in the St. Lawrence is just
below Johnstown. From thence to Montreal the
river is navigable only for boats, rafts, &c.
A more difficult rapid is the LongeSault (longus
saltus), in front of the township of Osnaburg
above Cornwall. The channel is here divided by
several islands, and the water runs with great velo-
city, especially at the foot, where there is a sudden
descent or leap of the water, from which the
name is derived. In going up, boats keep the
north shore, and are towed along ; but in descend-
ing they universally pass south of the islands, that
being the widest, deepest, and safest passage. The
Longe Sault is about nine miles in length. Boats
are said to pass down that distance in 20 minutes,
that is, at the rate of 27 miles an hour : the current
itself, however, is not so rapid. The boatmen are
obliged to add to its velocity by rowing to steer
the boat.
The rapids below the line of Upper Canada, at
the Cedars and La Chine, as you approach Mont-
real, are not less dangerous. But with good
pilotage, boats and rafts pass them in safety,
i
114 SKETCHES OF
The Ottawa, or Grand river, which divides the
provinces of Upper and Lower Canada for several
hundred miles, forming in its course various lakes,
islands, rapids, and fails, opens into the St. Law-
rence, through a bay called the Lake ot the Two
Mountains, 18 miles long and three broad, above
the south west point of the island of Montreal.
While the communication by the St. Lawrence
and lakes Ontario and Erie was intercepted by the
late war, the Ottawa was the channel through
which military supplies were forwarded to the
shipping and posts on lake Michigan.
The height of the water in the river and lakes
varies according to the season, being sensibly, al-
though not immediately, affected by the quantity
of rain and snow falling on the region, from whence
the streams flow into the lakes. In ordinary
years the water continues to rise in lake Ontario
until about the 20th of June. The consequence
is, that the St. Lawrence is not, like the Ohio,
Mississippi, and some other navigable rivers, sub-
ject to sudden variations, which affect the naviga-
tion, and require boats to hasten or postpone their
passage, without regard to their preparation, con-
venience, or previous calculation.
Independent of the occasional and annual varia-
tions, there appears to be a general decrease of
the lake waters. It is ascertained by permanent
land marks, that the surface of lake Ontario is now
(1811) four feet lower than it was 20 years ago.
Whether this gradual subsiding of the waters is
UPPER CANADA. 116
caused by the wearing away of the channel of the
outlet, or whatever maybe its cause, the fact is
certain, and ought to be noted*.
It was once supposed, that the lakes v/ere sub-
ject to a septennial rising and falling of water;
but the supposition was not well founded.
There is something like irregular tides in the
lakes. They are most perceptible in the bays and
inlets, and are accounted for on the principle of
the breeze, which, under the influence of the sun's
rays, blows from the water upon the land in the
daytime, and in the night subsides, and yields to a
counter breeze from the land to the water. These
shifting breezes are similar to those on the sea-
shore. They operate upon the water, which is thus
impelled to and from the land. The effect is
what is called the lake tides. In the bay of
Quinte the ebbing and flowing are very consi-
derable, but various, in consequence of the swells
produced by different winds on the open lake. At the
mouth of the Appanee river they frequently make
a difference of 12 or 14 inches in the' depth of the
water; and boats arid small craft passing .to and
from the mills conform to the alternate influx and
reflux, which succeed each other several times
in a dayf.
* In 181 5 the waters of Ontario and the upper lakes rose higher
than they had been for 30 years past. This rise did not all of it
take place in one year. It was gradual for two preceding seasons;
but the principal elevation was in the summer of 1815.
t See note A at the end of the Sketches.
I 2
116 SKETCHES OF
SKETCH V.
CIVIL DIVISIONS.
Districts — Counties — Townships — Towns — Con-
cessions— Lots.
BY the constitutional act the governor was
authorized to divide the province into districts,
counties, or circles, and towns or townships, and
to establish the limits thereof; subject, however,
to alteration by the provincial legislature.
Lord Dorchester had, three years before, formed
that part of the province of Quebec, which now
composes Upper Canada, into four districts ; Lu-
nenburgh, Mecklenburgh, Nassau, and Hesse.
At the first provincial parliament in 1792, those
names were abolished, and the Eastern, the Mid-
land^ the Home and the Western substituted as
the names of the respective districts; but their
limits were not altered.
Soon after Lieu tenant-Governor Simcoe under-
took the administration of the province, he issued
a proclamation, dated July 16, 1792, dividing it
into 19 counties.
In 1798, the parliament revised the civil divi-
sions of the province ; and, making several alter-
ations and additions, established eight Districts, 23
Counties, and 158 Townships.
THE EASTERN DISTRICT
Was composed of five counties :
UPPER CANADA. 117
1st. The County of Glengary, containing the
townships of Lancaster, Charlottenburgh, and
Kenyon, with the tract of land claimed by the St.
Regis Indians.
2d. The County of Stormont, containing the
townships of Cornwall, Osnaburgh, Finch and
Roxburgh.
3d. The County of Dundas, containing the
townships of Williamsburgh, Matilda, Mountain,
and Winchester,
4th. The County of Prescott, containing the
townships of Hawksbury, Longueil, with the
tract of land in its rear, Alfred and Plantagenet.
5th. The County of Russell, containing the
townships of Clarence, Cumberland, Gloucester,
Osgood, Russell, and Cambridge.
THE DISTRICT OF JOHNSTOWN
Was composed of three counties :
1st. The County of Grenville, containing the
townships of Edwardsburgh, Augusta, Wolford,
Oxford on the Rideau, Marlborough, Montague,
North Gower, and South Gower.
2d. The County of Leeds, containing the town-
ships of Elizabethtown, Yonge (including what
was formerly called Escot), Lansdown, Leeds,
Crosby, Bastard, Burgess, Elmsly, and Kitly.
3d. The County of Carlton, containing the
township of Nepean, with the tract of land to be
thereafter laid out into townships, between Ne-
pean and a line drawn north, 16 degrees west from
the north west angle of Crosby, until it intersects
the Ottawa river.
118 SKETCHES OF
THE MIDLAND DISTRICT
Was composed of four counties, with the land in
their rear, to the northern limits of the province.
1st. The County of Frontinac, containing the
townships of Pittsburgh, Kingston, Loughborough,
Portland, Hinchenbroke, Bedford, and Wolfe
Island.
2d. The incorporated Counties of Lenox and
Addington, containing the townships of Ernest
Town, Fredericksburg, Adolphus Town, Rich-
mond, Camden (east), Amherst Island, and Shef-
field.
3d. The County of Hastings, containing the
townships of Sidney, Thurlow, the tract of land
occupied by the Mohawks, Hungerford, Hunting-
don, and Rawdon.
4'th. The Comity of Prince Edward, containing
the townships of Marysburg, Hallowell, Sophias-
burg, and Ameliasburg.
THE DISTRICT OF NEWCASTLE,
The organization of which was postponed until the
number of its inhabitants amounted to !a thousand,
was composed of two counties, with the land in
their rear, to the northern limits of the province.
1st. The County of Northumberland, containing
the township of Murray, Cramahe, Haldimand,
Hamilton, Alnwick, Percy, and Seymour.
2d. The County of Durham, containing the
townships of Hope, Clarke, and Darlington, with
some adjoining lands.
UPPER CANADA. 119
THE HOME DISTRICT
Was composed of two counties.
1st. T/ie County of York, containing, in its
East Riding, the townships of Whitby, Pickering,
Scarborough, York, Etobicoke, Markham, Vaugh-
an, King, Whitchurch, Uxbridge, Guillembury,
and a tract of land, thereafter to be laid out into
townships, between the County of Durham and
lake Simcoe; in the West Riding, the townships
of Beverly, Hamborough (east and west), and
several tracts of land, not then laid out into
townships.
2d. The County of Simcoe, containing Matche-
dash, Gloucester, or Penetangueshine, with Prince
William Henry's island, and a tract of unlocated
land, extending to the northern limits of the
province.
THE DISTRICT OF NIAGARA
Was composed of two counties, together with the
beach between the head of lake Ontario, and
Burlington bay, and the promontory between that
bay and Coot's Paradise.
1st. The County of Lincoln, containing, in its
first riding, the townships of Clinton, Grimsby,
Saltfleet, Barton, Ancaster, Glandford, Binbrook,
Gainsborough, and Caistor: in the second riding,
Niagara, Grantham, and Louth ; in the third
riding, Stamford, Thorold, and Pelham ; in the
fourth riding, Bertie, Willoughby, Crowland, Hum-
berstone, and Wainfleet.
2d. The County of Haldimand, containing the
tract of land on each side of the Grand river, then
120 SKETCHES OF
in the occupation of the Six Nation Indians,
and lying to the southward and south west of
Dundas Street.
THE DISTRICT OF LONDON
Was composed of three counties, with a tract of
land extending back to lake Huron.
1st. The County of Norfolk, containing the
townships of Rainham, Wai pole, Wood house, Char-
lotteville, Walsingham, Houghton, Middleton,
Windham, and Townsend, with Turkey Point,
and the promontory of Long Point.
2d. The County of Oxford, containing the town-
ships of Burford, Norwich, Dereham, Oxford upon
the Thames, Blandford, and Blenheim.
3d. The County of Middlesex, containing the
townships of London, Westminster, Dorchester,
Yarmouth, Southwold, Malahide, Bayham, Dun-
wich, Aldborough, and Delaware.
THE WESTERN DISTRICT
Was composed of two counties, with all the
north western region of the province not included
in any other district.
1st. The County of Kent, containing the town-
ships of Dover, Chatham, Camden (west), the
Moravian tract of land, called Orford (north and
south), Howard, Harwich, Raleigh, Romney, Til-
bury (east and west), and the Shawney Indians'
town.
2d. The County of Essex, containing the town-
ships of Rochester, Mersea, Gosfield, Maidstone,
Sandwich, Colchester, Maiden, and the lands of
the Hurons, and other Indians upon the strait.
UPPER CANADA. 121
The adjacent islands, in the rivers and lakes,
were generally annexed to the townships in front
of which they were situated.
A number of other townships have been since
laid out ; and others still will doubtless be added
as fast as the population and settlement of the
province shall require them.
In a few of the townships there is a plat of a
mile square, distinguished as a town, but without
any distinct corporate privileges. In some instances,
the name of the town is different from that of
the township, as Brockville, in the township of
Elizabeth town.
Several applications have been made to the pro-
vincial legislature for the incorporation of other
districts ; but they have not yet been granted*.
As civil divisions, these districts are peculiar to
this province, and have almost annihilated the im-
portance of counties. There are district courts,
but no county courts. The court house and gaol
belong to the district. The sheriff's authority is
commensurate with the district. The commission
of the peace extends through the whole district, and
of course, the jurisdiction of the court of sessions
is equally extensive. So is that of the surrogate
court, and the court of assize, £c. The locality
of juries, of real and other local actions, and of
crimes, has reference to the district. In short there
are only two or three respects, in which counties
* The district of Gore is now formed out of part of the Home
and Niagara districts ; and the district of Ottawa is formed out of
part of the Eastern district. — R. G.
122 SKETCHES OF
are regarded by law: one is the registry of land titles ;
another the organization of the battalions of militia*.
The townships extend nine miles in front, and
twelve miles back. This is a general rule, from
which there have been exceptions, occasioned by
the shape and quantity of land remaining to be laid
out after preceding locations.
The townships were laid out into Concessions
and lots, in this manner. A front line was first
adjusted to the shore, so as to leave as little as pos-
sible of head land between it and the water, and of
back water between it and the land. A second
line was then drawn parallel with the first, and
at the distance of a hundred chains, or a mile and
a quarter, besides the allowance for a road. The
intervening range of land was called the first or
front Concession. In the same manner a second
Concession was laid out, then a third, fourth, &c.
In the front and between the Concessions, a strip
of land was allowed for a road. The allowance
for the front road was generally 60 feet, and for the
other Concession roads 40 feet. Each Concession
was divided into lots of 200 acres, by parallel lines
at right angles with the Concession lines, and 20
chains, or a quartef of a mile distant from each
other. At intervals of two or three miles, a strip
of 40 feet, between two lots, was left for a cross road.
* Members of parliament are generally chosen by counties. In
Niagara district by ridings, which are equivalent to counties. The
district of Ottawa is still joined to the eastern district, as it concerng
assize courts. — R. G.
* 1
UPPER CANADA. 123
In several of the first townships the lots were
laid only nineteen chains wide, and consequently
the Concessions were proportionally wider, to give
each lot, by an addition of length, its complement
of 200 acres. And in some of the later townships,
1 believe the Concession lines have been drawn so
as to make the 200 acre lots shorter and wider.
In the townships bordering upon the lakes and
great rivers, the Concessions were fronted on the
water. The ranges of townships laid out on each
side of Yonge street and Dundas street, were fronted
on those streets respectively.
The Concessions being numbered from the front
to the rear of the townships, the lots in each Con-
cession were distinguished by their appropriate
numbers, and are commonly described in that man-
ner ; as lot No. — in the — Concession of the
township of — . This description, by the number
of the lot and of the Concession, with the name
of the township, is simple, familiar, and uniform,
and at the same time so definite, that it has been
adjudged by the Court of King's Bench to be suffi-
cient, not only in a deed of conveyance, but even
in a writ of ejectment.
The inhabitants of these townships hold annual
meetings, appoint certain officers, and regulate
some matters of police agreeably to the provisions
of law, but have not such various corporate powers
and duties, as those little republics, the towns of
New England.
124 SKETCHES OF
SKETCH VI.
SETTLEMENTS.
The whole north eastern Limits settled — Cornwall —
Charlottenburg—Williamsburg — Battle of Chrys-
ler s Field — Johnstown — Prescott — Elizabeth
Town — Brockville — Kingston — Ernest To wn —
Townships around the Bay of Quinte — Newcastle
District — Yonge Street — York — Niagara Dis-
trict— Indian Lands — London District — Western
District — Shores of Lakes Erie and Ontario —
Lord Selkirk's Plantation — Situation of London
on the Thames.
IT has been stated that Upper Canada began to
be settled in 1784. A brief sketch of the progress
and present state of the settlements will be added.
From the north eastern line to Elizabeth town,
about 70 miles, the whole width of the province,
between the two boundary rivers St. Lawrence and
Ottawa, was early laid out into townships, in two,
three, and four ranges. These townships are all
settled, and many of them well cultivated. Some
of them have improvements on almost every lot.
Cornwall is a flourishing town, watered by a
rivulet running through it, and situated on a com-
modious bay of the river below the Longe Sault.
It is the seat of the courts for the eastern district,
has a very respectable literary institution, a church
and rectory, and considerable trade.
UPPER CANADA. 125
Char lot tenburg next below, has more agricul-
ture, and a larger number of inhabitants. It is
well watered by the river Aux Raisins ; but is not
conveniently situated for trade. The first settlers
were chiefly Catholics from Scotland. They have
a Catholic chapel in the township.
The front of Williamsburg is a beautiful situa-
tion on the bank of the river. In this township
there is a Lutheran church. Chrysler's farm, in this
township, has acquired celebrity from a battle
fought there, November llth, 1814, between a
part of General Wilkinson's army on their way
down the St. Lawrence, and a body of British
troops, collected and commanded by Lieutenant-
Colonel Morrison, pursuing and harassing the
Americans on their march. The latter, led by
Brigadier-General Boyd, in the absence of Gene-
rals Wilkinson and Lewis, who were in the boats,
faced about, and commenced the action, in the
early part of which they were successful. But
Colonel Morrison, by his judicious movements,
and the discipline and firmness of his troops, main-
tained a well chosen position, and turned the for-
tune of the day. General Boyd being forced to
retreat, formed his troops again, with a view to a
further engagement ; but was ordered to embark,
and proceed down the river. The loss in killed
and wounded was severe on both sides. General
Covington, of the American army, died of his
wounds a few days afterwards. This short but
severe action is called by the British officers the
battle of Chrysler's field, and by the Americans
the battle of Williamsburg.
126 SKETCHES OF
Johnstown^ in the township of Edwardsburg,
is calculated for a mercantile depot, at the head of
the Rapids, being the lowest port to and from
which lake vessels sail. It was the court town of
the eastern district ; and since the division of the
original district, the courts for the district of
Johnstown have been attended here, as well as at
Elizabeth town. Johnstown has experienced a
comparative decline.
Prescott, a village in Augusta, opposite to Og-
densburgh, is beginning to vie with that place in
exertions to obtain the forwarding business of the
Montreal boats, and the vessels of the lake. Al-
though it is not so low down as Johnstown, it has
a bolder shore.
Elizabeth is a populous and wealthy township,
situated near the centre of the district, has a good
agricultural country around it, and is increasing in
commercial business.
The village at the front of this township has
received the name of Brockville. Although not
regularly fortified, it was the station of a few
troops, and the scene of some military operations.
On the 7th of February, 1813, Captain Forsyth,
with 200 volunteers from Ogdensburgh, landed
in this village, surprised the guard, and took about
40 prisoners, with some arms, ammunition, and
other public stores.
From the townships adjoining the Ottawa, and
the rivers Rideau and Petite Nation, which empty
into the Ottawa, the produce is transported in
boats down that river to Montreal, and goods are
remitted through the same channel. The head
UPPER CANADA. 127
waters of these streams communicate by short port-
ages with those which fall into the St. Lawrence;
and by means of locks and canals, an inland navi-
gation might be easily effected between the St.
Lawrence and the Ottawa, to the benefit of com-
mercial intercourse, and the security of the pro-
vince in time of war. The forks of the Rideau,
around which the townships of Oxford, Marl-
borough, and Gower, are situated, are expected
to become an emporium of interior commerce.
They afford advantageous situations for water works,
especially for the manufacture of iron, and it is
said there is a good supply of ore in the vicinity.
From Elizabeth town upward, the settlements
are of the depth of three townships, or between
30 or 40 miles throughout the district of Johns-
town.
In Frontinac, the eastern county of the mid-
land district, two ranges of townships are settled,
besides the settlements on the islands.
The harbour of Kingston has already been de-
scribed. The town fronts the harbour in full view
of the water and shipping. Streets are laid out
parallel with the harbour, at convenient distances
from each other, and are intersected at right angles,
by cross streets dividing the town into squares.
One square is an open public area in front of the
court house, and gaol, and episcopal church. —
In this area is the market. Besides these public
buildings there are a new Catholic church, bar-
racks for the troops of the garrison, an hospital,
and a house for the commanding officer, about
128 SKETCHES OP
300 other dwelling houses, a number of ware-
houses and stores, about 60 shops of goods, seve-
ral public offices, a respectable district school, a
valuable library, besides mechanic shops, &c.
Though the war destroyed Niagara, checked the
progress of York, and made Ernest town " a
deserted village," it doubled the population, the
buildings, and business of Kingston.
The court house and gaol, Catholic church,
many of the principal dwelling houses, and some
stores, are built of a bluish limestone, dug out of
.the ground, in large quantities, in the midst of
the town. This species of stone is common in the
country, and will be more particularly noticed in
a sketch of the soil. The quarries of it here are
convenient and valuable for purposes of building;
but the style of building is not tasty and elegant.
Kingston is not well supplied with water. —
Wells are difficult to be obtained, and their water
is not very good. The water of the bay is less
pure than that of the open lake. Some springs in
the rear of the town, yield a partial supply of clear
water, very slightly affected by its passage through
strata of limestone.
The township of Kingston is in some places
stony, and contains a number of lots still unset-
tled, probably because they are owned by gentle-
men engaged in other employments than the culti-
vation of land.
Kingston is subject to one local disadvantage,
the want of a populous back country.
Loughborough situated north, and Portland north
2
TIPPER CANADA. 129
west, have made some progress in settlement, but
are yet thinly inhabited.
The next township on the lake is Ernest Town,
vulgarly called Second Town. It is level, and has a
rich soil, with but little waste ground. There is more
arable land than meadow or pasture. It is watered
by two rivers and various smaller streams, running
into the lake, and furnishing convenient mill seats.
Nearly all the lots are settled, and generally under
good improvement. The settlers are most of them
practical husbandmen. Their farms are well fenc-
ed, well tilled, and accommodated with barns.
There are now (1811) above 2,300 inhabitants, a
greater number than are found in any other town-
ship in the province. They have three houses
of public worship, one Episcopalian, one Presby-
terian, and one Methodist, attended by clergymen
of these respective denominations. In the front
of the township, adjoining the harbour, 18 miles
above Kingston, at the division of the great road
into branches, passing up on the inside and outside
of the bay of Quinte, a village is begun, which pro-
mises to be a place of considerable business. Its
harbour has been noticed in the description of the
lake. From the lake shore, the ground ascends
about seventy rods, and thence slopes off in a
gentle northern descent. The ascent is divided
into regular squares by five streets, laid parallel
with the shore; one of them being the lower
branch of the main road, and all of them crossed
at right angles, by streets running northerly. One
of these cross streets is continued through the Con-
ic
130 SKETCHES OF
cession, and forms that branch of the main road
which passes round the bay of Quinte. On the
east side of this street at the most elevated point
stands the church ; and on the opposite side is the
academy, overlooking the village, and command-
ing a variegated prospect of the harbour, the sound,
the adjacent island, the outlets into the open lake,
and the shores stretching eastward and westward,
with a fine landscape view of the country all
around. The situation is healthy and delightful,
not surpassed perhaps in natural advantages by any
in America.
The village contains a valuable social Library;
is increasing in buildings, accommodations, inhabi-
tants, and business, and seems calculated to be
the central point of a populous and productive tract
of country around it.
Amherst island in front, has between one and
two hundred inhabitants, and is a distinct town-
ship, although for some public purposes it is an-
nexed to Ernest Town.
Camden lies north, and is settled to the distance
of about twenty miles from the lake.
Although Ernest town is entirely east of the bay
of Quinte, it is commonly considered, especially
by people residing at a distance, to belong to the bay.
Fredericksburg , the next township, is not so
uniformly settled and improved ; but has a large
population, and many excellent farms, an episcopal
church*, and a Lutheran meeting house. The
Appanee separates it from Richmond on the north.
* The Episcopal church has since been burnt.
UPPER CANADA. 131
Adolphus Town is surrounded on the south
west, and north, by the bay, and is indented with
several fine coves, furnishing convenient landing
places. It is not large, but is well cultivated, and
has a town, or village, with a courthouse, where
the court of general quarter sessions for the Mid-
land District sits semi-annually ; the other two al-
ternate terms being holden at Kingston. A society
of friends have their meetings in Adolphus Town.
Travelling the main road to the seat of government,
you cross .the bay from this town to the peninsula
of Prince Edward, by a ferry of about a mile.
In Myrysburg, Hallowell, Sophiasburg, and Ame-
liasburg, the four townships of Prince Edward, the
peninsula so.uth of the bay of Quinte, there is some
rough and waste land ; but a large proportion of no-
ble farms under good cultivation. Hallpwell is a
flourishing village, advantageously situated on tl\e
bay. The road over the isthmus, from the head of
the bay to the lake, has Ameliasburg in the mid-,
land district, on one side, and on the other,
Murray, a township of the district of Newcastle.
It appears to be a place of increasing activity ; but
the soil is not of the first quality.
In Marysburg, opposite to Adolphus Town,
there is a lake or pond of several hundred acres on
the top of a hill, two hundred feet higher them the
surface of lake Ontario. There is no stream en-
tering this small lake ; but one issuing from it suf-
ficient to carry a mill, called Van Alstine's mill,
standing by the shore of the bay of Quinte.
North of the bay there are two ranges of town-
K 2
132 SKETCHES OF
ships. West of Richmond, is the Mohawk land,
a fertile tract, nine miles in front, and twelve miles
deep, assigned to a portion of the Mohawks, who
chose to separate from the Six Nations on the Grand
river. It is inhabited by the Indians only, accord-
ing to their mode of habitation, and of course is
little improved, and the roads are bad. In the
front of the village is a church built by the Society
for propagating the Gospel in Foreign Parts, who
have, for a number of years, maintained a reader
of service, and a schoolmaster for these Indians.
Thurlow, adjoining westward, is well settled in
cront, and near its south western angle, Myers
river has good improvements, extending five or six
miles up the river. At the mouth there is a hand-
some collection of houses and shops, with a plea-
sant public square or common. This village is
built on low ground, and is subject to inundation
when the river is choked with ice.
The improvements continue pretty uniform
throughout Sidney, and to the river Trent, in the
township of Murray. Thence through the fertile
well watered townships of the district of New-
castle, generally, the settlements appear new ; but
they are beginning to flourish. Their natural ad-
vantages are of a superior order. Cramahe, Haldi-
mand, Hamilton, and Hope, are making good pro-
gress in population. Hamilton is the seat of jus-
tice for the district of Newcastle.
From that district to York, the country, not-
withstanding its fertility, is thinly settled ; and,
consequently, the roads are unfinished and out of
UPPER CANADA. 133
repair, the land having been granted in large blocks
to non-resident proprietors.
The government, as well as travellers, appear to
be convinced of the ill policy of such grants upon
a great public road. For, in later instances, the
lots located on such a road have been granted upon
condition of actual settlement, the clearing of
acertain quantity of the land, the erection of a house,
and the making of the road across each lot.
Upon these principles, the two ranges of town-
ships butting upon Yonge street were granted,
except that the troops under General Simcoe were
employed in opening the way at first. Thus a
noble chain of agricultural improvements has, in a
short time, been extended from York to Guillem-
burg, near lake Simcoe. A new region is peopled,
and the public are accommodated with a good
road. In consequence of which, the country is en-
riched, and the town of York highly benefited,
notwithstanding some non-resident lands in its
immediate vicinity.
York has other advantages, natural and adven-
titious. It is situated on a beautiful plain, in a
rich soil, and temperate climate. Its harbour and
connexion with the lake have been already sketched.
The town plat, more than a mile and a half in
length, is laid out in regular streets, lots, and
squares, having the Garrison, and the site of the
parliament house on its two wings, and a market
near the center.
There is a public square open to the water.
Many neat, and some elegant houses are erected,
2
134 SKETCHES OP
arid the town has a mixed appearance of city and
country. It is the seat of government, the place
of the residence of his excellency the Lieutenant
Governor, and of the annual session of parliament.
Here the provincial offices are kept, the public
officers reside, and the business of the province is
transacted. It is the resort of persons applying for
land, or making any other applications to govern-
ment, and of travellers visiting the country. It is
likewise the seat of the courts and offices of the
home district, and has an episcopal church, a dis-
trict school, a printing office, and much professional
and mercantile business. In summer the beach
of t-he peninsula is a healthy and delightful ride ;
and the bay, covered with level ice, forms an ex-
tensive plain for the winter amusement of sleighing.
York increased but little in its buildings during
the war, except some military erections at the west
end of the town, and a naval store-house and wharf
in front of it.
Since the general establishment of civil divisions
in 1798, several new townships have been sur-
veyed, granted, and partially settled, among which
are three in the new Indian purchase, west of York,
between Etobicoke and the head of the lake : viz.
Toronto, Trafalgar, and Nelson.
The district of Niagara was originally settled in
1784, by the disbanded rangers of Col. Butler's
regiment. In 1785, and the suceeding years, many
emigrants arrived there from the states of New
York, Pennsylvania, and New Jersey, particularly
the county of Sussex, in the latter state. Other
UPPER CANADA. 135
settlers have been annually coming in from various
quarters. The whole district, about seventy miles
(since the formation of Gore much less) by forty, is
now generally cleared, inhabited, and cultivated.
In the cultivation of fruit, the inhabitants of
Niagara district have been peculiarly successful.
Many of the settlers of the district of London
also, particularly of the county of Norfolk, emi-
grated from the same states as the settlers of Nia-
gara, and are pursuing similar modes of cultivation.
The land being thinly timbered, settlements were
easily effected, and good roads soon formed.
Colonel Talbot has a flourishing new settlement
called Port Talbot, on the lake shore, west of Long
Point, in the township of Dunwich, and the town-
ships in this section of the country generally are
rapidly progressing in population and improvement.
In August, 1814, a party of Indians and Americans,
painted like Indians, surprised the settlement of
Port Talbot, took a number of the inhabitants, and
plundered about fifty of them of their horses, and
other property.
An extensive and valuable territory on the Grand
river was assigned by Governor Haldimand, in the
name of the crown, to the Six Nations of Indians,
to compensate them for their services in the revo-
lutionary war, and supply the loss of their lands in
the province, now state ofiSW York.
This confederacy of Indians was originally com-
posed of five tribes only, who were called the Five
Nations, or Iroquois. They afterwards received into
their national union the Tuscaroras, a tribe that
136 SKETCHES OF
migrated from North Carolina; and thereafter they
were generally denominated the Six Nations. In
the revolution they divided, some of them sided
with the colonies, and remained in possession of
their lands. The others took up the hatchet on
the side of the king ; and being obliged to abandon
their possessions, removed into Canada, and were
liberally rewarded by the sovereign they had served
with land on both sides of the Grand river, pur-
chased for that purpose, of the Missassaga Indians.
Under the auspices of the late Captain Brandt,
they sold several blocks, or townships of land, and
took bonds for the payment of the stipulated price,
upon condition that the sales should be confirmed
by the crown; and they have accordingly been con-
firmed on certain terms, respecting the investment
of the principal of the money arising from the sales.
The Indians have, according to their mode of
proceeding, since given long leases of other blocks
of their land ; and the lessees, to the number of
several hundreds, have entered and are now in
possession of the land thus leased ; but not having
obtained confirmations, they are embarrassed for
want of a legal title. They are formed into a
county by the name of Haldimand.
Oxford, on the upper fork of the river Thames,
is 42 miles from Burlington Bay, by the route of
Dundas street. Blenheim and Blandford lie north.
Dorchester is situated on the middle fork, and
London on the lower or main fork, with West-
minster adjoining it ; Chatham and Harwich are
lower down the river, in the county of Kent.
UPPER CANADA. 137
The country along this fine river, and between
it and the shore of lake Erie, including the pe-
ninsula formed by that lake, the Detroit and lake
Sinclair, is surveyed into townships, most of which
are settled, or in a course of rapid settlement, with*
a prospect of becoming one of the most delightful
regions in the world.
A line of settlements is thus marked out along
the lakes Ontario and Erie. Should population
continue to advance with its usual ratio of in-
crease, the shores of these lakes all around, as well
on the side of the United States, as that of Canada,
will in a few years be an extensive range of villages
and cultivated fields. The produce of this fertile
interior must be great, in whatever proportion it
may eventually go to market, through the St. Law-
rence or the Ohio and Mississippi. Or whether
any of the gigantic projects of lock and canal
communication with Hudson's river, the Delaware,
the Susquehannah, or the Potowmac, shall be car-
ried into effect or not. By an inspection of the
map, it may be seen that the Canadian shore is all
laid out into townships, from the lower province up
to lake Sinclair.
Lord Selkirk, of Scotland, has commenced a
plantation on that lake, but was not very fortunate
in his location. The land in general is low and
wet, and although it is exceedingly rich, proved at
first to be unhealthy. Some of it, however, is
adapted to the breeding of sheep, in which he was
successful. His settlement is said to have suffered
by the war.
138 SKETCHES OF
General Simcoe, in hjs administration, is thought
to have contemplated London as the future capital
of the province. The natural advantages on which
Jiis expectation is alleged to have been founded,
were the centrality of its position between the
lakes Ontario, Erie, and Huron, its fortunate si-
tuation on the Thames ; the fertility of the coun-
try ; the mildness and salubrity of its climate; the
abundance and purity of its water; its means of
military and naval protection, and the facility of
communication with lake Sinclair through the
outlet of the Thames ; with lake Huron by the
northern branch of that noble river ; with the Grand
river by a short portage; and with lake Ontario, by
the military way called Dundas street. With a
view to this expected state of things, the names of
the river, the contemplated metropolis, the adja-
cent towns, &c. were taken from those of corres-
ponding objects in the mother country.
This project however of General Simcoe, if he
ever entertained it, appears to have been a vision-
ary one. Before London can become a seat of pro-
vincial government the province must be divided.
If the government should be removed from York,
the removal will probably be to Kingston.
UPPER CANADA. 139
SKETCH VII.
POPULATION.
Mode of Calculation. — Whole Number of Inhabi-
tants.
I HAVE not been able to obtain accurate official
returns of the number of inhabitants in the various
townships and districts throughout the province, but
have formed an estimate in the following manner.
In the statements of district taxes for the year
ending March, 1811, returned to the Provincial
Parliament by the clerks of the peace in the respec-
tive districts, the number of persons taxed is in
most instances expressed ; and where it is omitted,
the omission being supplied by a calculation found-
ed upon the relative numbers of persons, and
amounts of taxes, the result is nine thousand six
hundred and twenty-three, persons taxed.
Then having the number of persons taxed in the
most populous township, as returned by the asses-
sors, and also the whole number of inhabitants in
the same township, including men, women, and
children, as taken by the clerk, I find upon com-
paring them, that rejecting a small fraction, the pro-
portion is as one to eight. Applying that propor-
tion to the province, it gives, for the whole popu-
lation, seventy-six thousand nine hundred and
eighty-four.
140 SKETCHES OF
Although this calculation is not to be relied on
for absolute exactness, it is sufficiently certain to
answer the purposes of general information*.
I have no data for estimating the proportions of
persons of different ages and sexes, or the exact
ratio of increase. The latter being affected by ac-
cessions from Europe and the lower province, and
still more from the United States, has depended,
and must hereafter depend in a considerable degree
upon the encouragement holden out to settlers. A
fair understanding of the real state of the country
in respect to climate and soil, the cheapness of
land, the security of titles, the value of labour, the
lightness of taxes, and the protection of property,
will, under the continuance of a wise and liberal
policy towards settlers, promote emigrations, and
accelerate the progress of population.
SKETCH VIII.
CLIMATE, WINDS, &c.
Prevailing Winds — Weather — Temperature of the
Air compared with the same Parallels of Latitude
in the United States — Change of Winters —
Snow — State of Health.
BY climate, is not intended the situation of the
province in reference to degrees of latitude, but the
* Mr. Heriot has estimated the population of Upper Canada at
80,000. This was in 1806.
UPPER CANADA. 141
general temperature of the air. This is, in some
measure, affected by the winds, which, also, are
influenced by the configuration of the country into
mountains, valleys, beds of rivers, &c.
The prevailing winds of Upper Canada are the
south west, the north east, and north west. In
summer the wind blows two thirds of the time
down stream, that is, from the south west. As it
passes over the lakes, the air collects a moisture,
which excites an unpleasant sensation. In spring
and autumn, this wind is sometimes quite uncom-
fortable. However, compared with the north east,
and north west, it is generally moderate. The
north east is damp and chilly, but not to such a
degree as at Boston and other places on the Atlan-
tic board. The longest storms of rain, and the
deepest falls of snow, are usually accompanied by
easterly winds. The north west, which is most fre-
quent in winter, is dry, cold, and elastic. The south
east is soft, thawy and rainy. The wind blows
less frequently from the west and south, and still
more seldom from due north.
Almost every day in the summer, especially
when the wind blows from the south west, it rises
about nine or ten o'clock in the forenoon, and con-
tinues to increase in strength till towards evening,
when it gradually lulls away.
Changes of wind are attended by corresponding
changes of weather. The most sudden are to the
north west, followed by weather clear and cold for
the season. Almost every thunder shower clears up
with this wind.
SKETCHES OF
This ordinary state of the winds is conformable to
the shape of the country. Upper Canada is gene-
rally level, much more so than the adjacent states
of Vermont and New York. The broad valley
which extends from the lower province along the
St. Lawrence, around Ontario and Erie, and thence
over to the Ohio, is not interrupted by one single
mountain. The descent of 300 feet from the plain of
Erie to that of Ontario, is not such an interruption.
Eastward of the Ohio, the Alleganian chain from
the south, stretches up into the state of New York ;
and south east of Ontario, there is a range of high-
lands, spreading from the Black River towards lake
Champlain. On that elevated ground about the
Black River, the snow is commonly deeper, and
the cold more severe than on the north side of lake
Ontario.
The south west wind, which sweeps this
country, is a continuation of the vast etherial
stream, impelled from the gulph of Mexico, along
the basin of the Mississippi, the Ohio, the lakes
and their river, to the gulf of St. Lawrence, com-
ing from a warm region, it imparts warmth to the
climate as it passes. On the Mississippi side of
the Alleganies, the air is generally considered to
be warmer by two or three degrees of latitude than
on the Atlantic side. Some natural cause, proba-
bly the same, produces a similar, perhaps not equal
effect on the climate of Upper Canada ; where,
although the fact has not been philosophically de-
termined by an accurate series of thermometrical
observations, it is abundantly true, that the cold is
3
UPPER CANADA. 143
less severe than it is in corresponding degrees of
latitude in Massachusetts, New Hampshire, and
Vermont. This is the uniform declaration of in-
habitants, who from their own residence in both
situations, are qualified to form a just comparison.
Gentlemen settled on the bay of Quinte, who
once resided in the state of New York, have assur-
ed me, that the climate of their present residence
is not colder than that of Albany. A similar assur-
ance was expressed by an observing inhabitant of
Windham, in the county of Norfolk, who formerly
lived in Dutchess county, in the state of New York,
and who thinks there is no material difference in
the temperature of those two places. Many of
the settlers in the vicinity of Niagara and at the
head of lake Ontario, emigrated from New Jersey.
By conversing with a number of them, men of in-
telligence and observation, I found it to be their
opinion, that they enjoy as mild a climate as they
did before their emigration, notwithstanding the
difference of more than two degrees of latitude.
Such appears to be the concurring testimony of
those inhabitants, who have had sufficient personal
opportunities of comparing the climate of this in-
terior with that of the Atlantic states ; which al-
though corresponding with the eastern shores of
Asia, in respect to cold and heat, are known to be
colder than the same parallels in the west of
Europe.
The land crab, an animal of warm climates, is
seen upon the north shores of lake Erie.
It is the belief of the inhabitants here, that
144 SKETCHES OF
their winters are less rigorous and snowy than
they were when the province was first settled. A
snow which fell in February, 1811, about two feet
and three inches deep, was every where spoken of
as remarkable for its depth.
Snows are not so liable to drifts here as in the
more hilly districts of New England ; nor so much
exposed to the thawing influence of south eastern
winds as in places nearer the sea board. Yet
sleighing, although a pleasant mode of travelling,
and very convenient for transportation, especially
when summer roads are new and incomplete, is sub-
ject to too much uncertainty from the fluctuations
of weather, to be safely depended upon even here
for distant journeys.
The climate of Upper Canada is favourable to
health and longevity. At the first settlement, in-
deed, in common with all new countries, this was
afflicted with the fevers incident to that stage of
cultivation ; but those effects ceased with their
cause, and the country is now very healthy. This
opinion is founded upon the information of medi-
cal gentlemen and others, confirmed by observation
and my own personal experience. I have found
travelling and residing in it, to be salutary and re-
storative to a feeble constitution*.
* I cannot refrain from adding my own testimony to the above
most important fact. After two years residence in Upper Ca-
nada, I am inclined to think the world does not contain a spot
more healthy, or, altogether, more desirable as to climate and
soil.— R. G.
UPPER CANADA. 145
SKETCH IX.
WATER.
Streams of Water and their Quality — Lake Water
—Scarborough Medicinal Springs — Springs of
Bitumen — Sulphur — Salt.
THE water of the province generally is in a
slight degree impregnated with the quality of lime-
stone, which so much abounds. Strangers per-
ceive it by the taste, although it is imperceptible
to the old inhabitants. It is» also proved by the
sediment adhering to tea-kettles and other vessels.
Some tracts of low flat land are not well watered.
The streams are not frequent, and the water is not
limpid and pure, as it is in hilly regions. In the
district of Newcastle, however, and many other
places, the country, although not mountainpus, is
undulated by gentle hills and valleys, and the wa-
ter is abundant and excellent.
The water of the lakes also, as has been already
mentioned, is soft and salubrious, and is accordingly
used for drink, cookery, washing, and other com-
mon purposes.
In the township of Scarborough, 15 miles east
of York, there are two medicinal springs, four or
five rods apart. The water bubbles out of the top,
and runs over a concretion of the sediment, formed
into the shape of a sugar loaf, of a grey or mixed co-
lour. No considerable stream flows away. The
146 SKETCHES OF
water appears to be principally absorbed by the
adjacent ground. Its properties have not been
ascertained by a chemical analysis ; but in taste
and appearance, it resembles the waters of Balls-
town and Saratoga in the state of New York, which
are so highly celebrated ; and so much frequented
by valetudinarians and fashionables from all quar-
ters of the United States. The Scarborough springs
begin to be resorted to by persons affected with
rheumatic and other chronical complaints. An
eminent physician of York, is said to have received
much benefit from the use of the water.
Near the Moravian villages on the river Thames,
there are springs of petroleum. A bituminous
substance appears on several of the waters of the
nofah western country.
At the head of lake Ontario there are several
fountains strongly impregnated with sulphur. In
some of them it is found in substance, collected
into solid lumps of brimstone.
There are likewise salt-licks or springs. One in
the township of Saltfleet, wrought only on a small
scale, has produced a barrel of salt in a day, and
it is thought it might be made to produce a much
larger quantity. There is another in the peninsula
of Prince Edward, in the township of Sophiasburgh.
The salt springs on the river Trent, which at
their discovery were expected to be productive and
profitable, have not, upon further experiment, prov-
ed equal to the first expectation.
The upper districts of the province are still sup-
plied with the valuable and necessary article of
UPPER CANADA. 147
salt, chiefly from the salt works at Onondago in
the state of New York.
SKETCH X.
SOIL, STONES, MINERALS, &c.
Component Parts of the Soil — Limestone — Free-
stone— Soapstone — Gypsum — Marl — Clay —
WJiiting—Iron Ore— Black Lead—Yellow Ochre.
UPPER CANADA is the most fertile British pro-
vince in America. It contains a variety of soils,
but that which predominates is composed of brown
clay and loam, with a small portion of marl inter-
mixed. This compound species of soil, in various
proportions of the component parts, prevails in the
Eastern, Johnstown, Midland, and Niagara districts,
not however without some exceptions. Around
the bay of Quinte it is more clayey, especially
near the lake shore, where it resembles the soil of
the country about Lancaster, in Pennsylvania, and
is rich and productive.
Throughout these districts, generally, it rests on
a bed of limestone, which lies in horizontal strata,
a few feet beneath the surface, and in some places
rises to the surface of the ground. In colour this
stone is of different shades of blue, interspersed
with grains of white quartz. It is used for build-
ing, and is manufactured into excellent lime by an
148 SKETCHES OF
easy process of calcination. It also enriches and
invigorates the soil.
The limestone of Niagara district differs from the
rest both in colour and quality, being grey, and not
so easily calcined into lime.
The front of Newcastle district is of a rich black
soil. At some distance back, towards the Rice
lake, there is a sandy plain.
A number of townships in the East Riding of
York, and the land on the Ouse, or Grand river, and
the Thames, resemble the front of Newcastle in
respect to soil.
At York, and thence through Yonge street, the
soil is fertile, but stones are so scarce that there is
a want of them for common uses. There is like-
wise a scarcity of stones in several townships bor-
dering upon lakes Erie and Sinclair, and the De-
troit.
Barton, Ancaster, and other places around the
head of lake Ontario, are of a light sandy soil. So
is a considerable tract near the shore of lake Erie.
Notwithstanding the predominance of calcareous
stones, there are other kinds, as granite and sand-
stone; but not in so large quantities, except in the
north western regions, where Mr. M*Kenzie says
granite abounds.
In the Indian land, opposite to the Delaware
township, on the river Thames, there is a quarry
of soft freestone, of a dark colour, very useful for
building. It extends a quarter of a mile on the
bank of the river The Indians hew it out in
long blocks, with their axes. It will not endure
the heat of fire.
UPPER CANADA. 149
Near the Gananoqui lake, there is found a soft
stone, of a smooth oily surface. It is called soap-
stone, and is useful for ink-stands, and various
other utensils.
Gypsum is obtained in large quantities in Wilson's
township (now Dumfries) on the Grand river,
north of Dundas street. A gentleman accus-
tomed to the use of that of New Brunswick, has
-examined and used this, and pronounces it to be
equally good for purposes of manufacture or ma-
nure. In a new country, manures are less needed,
and therefore less valued, than in districts of old
worn-out land. But plaster will probably be an
article of value even here, as it has long been in
places of similar soil in Pennsylvania, and has
begun to be in the western parts of the state of
New York.
Marl abounds more or less in every district of
the province. It is of different colours in differ-
ent places. That of Wood house and Charlotteville,
near Long Point, is of a bluish or lead colour.
Clay, proper for brick, is frequent ; and some of
it is of a quality suitable for potter's ware. There
is a large mass of that description in a marsh in
Ernest town. It is blue, and unmixed with other
substances.
Pipe-clay of a good quality is found at Burling-
ton Heights.
In the township of Rodney, there is a bed of
that species of fine calcareous earth which is
known in commerce by the name of whiting, or
Spanish white, and which is used in painting, and
for putty, and in the manufacture of fine wares.
150 SKETCHES OF
Brick buildings, however, have not become com-
mon ; and but little potter's ware, coarse or fine,
is manufactured in the country.
There is a plenty of iron ore in some places, par-
ticularly in Charlotteville, about, eight miles from
lake Erie. It is of that description which is de-
nominated shot ore, a medium between what is
called mountain ore and bog ore. The iron made
of it is of a superior quality.
Black lead is found 6n the shores of the Ga-
nanoqui lake, and in some other places, chiefly in
the Eastern Section of the province.
Yellow ochre also is dug up in Gananoqui, and
in the township of Ernest town.
SKETCH XI.
PRODUCTIONS, NATURAL AND CUL-
TIVATED.
Forest Trees and Shrubs — Fruit Trees — Medicinal
Moots — Grasses Grains — Flax and Hemp —
Garden Vegetables and Roots — Canadian Thistle.
I SHALL not attempt a classification or botanical
description of the trees, shrubs, and plants of
Upper Canada.
In 1784, the whole country was one continued
forest. Some plains on the borders of lake Erie, at
the head of lake Ontario, and in a few other places,
•were thinly wooded: but, in general, the land in
UPPER CANADA. 151
its natural state was heavily loaded with trees;
and after the clearings of more than 30 years, many
wide spread forests still defy the settler's axe.
The forest trees most common are, beech,
maple, birch, elm, bass, ash, oak, pine, hickory,
butternut, balsam, hazel, hemlock, cherry, cedar,
cypress, fir, poplar, sycamore (vulgarly called button
wood, from its balls resembling buttons),whitewood,
willow, spruce. Of several of these kinds there
are various species ; and there are other tress less
common. Chestnut, black walnut, and sassafras,
although frequent at the head of lake Ontario, and
thence westward and southward, are scarcely to be
seen on the north side of that lake and the St.
Lawrence. Near the line between Kingston and
Ernest town, a black walnut has been planted, and
flourishes, and bears nuts.
The sumach, whose leaves and berries are used
for a black dye by the curriers here, and by the
dyers of Manchester, and other manufacturing
towns in England, grows plentifully in all parts of
the country.
Elder, wild cherries, plums, thorns, gooseberries,
blackberries, rasberries, grapes, and many other
bushes, shrubs, and vines, abound. Whortleber-
ries and cranberries (both the tall and the low or
viny) grow in some places, but not generally
through the province.
The sugar maple is common in every district.
Its sap, which is extracted in the spring, and from
which molasses and sugar are made, is useful to the
inhabitants in the early stages of their settlement;
152 SKETCHES OP
and might be rendered of more extensive and per-
manent use, by proper attention to the preserva-
tion of the trees, the manner of tapping them, and
some practical improvements in the process of re-
ducing the sap to sugar. The wood, also, being
beautifully veined and curled, is valuable for cabi-
net work.
The butternut tree is useful for various pur-
poses. The kernel of its nut is nutritious and
agreeable to the taste. If gathered when young
and tender, about the first of July, the nut makes
an excellent pickle. The bark dyes a durable
brown colour ; and an extract from it is a mild and
safe cathartic.
A healthy beer is made of the essence of spruce,
and also of a decoction of its boughs.
The juniper is an evergreen, the berries of which
are used here, as in Holland, in the manufacture of
gin, and give to that liquor its diuretic quality.
The prickly ash is considered to possess medical
virtues. A decoction of its berries, bark, or roots,
is taken for rheumatic complaints.
Red cedar, being the most durable of all known
woods, when exposed to the weather, is highly
valued for fence posts and other similar uses. It is
also a beautiful material for cabinet work.
For a number of years past, large quantities of
oak and pine timber have been annually cut on the
banks of the St. Lawrence and lake Ontario, and
its bays and creeks, and floated drwn on rafts to
the Montreal and Quebec markets, for foreign ex-
portation.
UPPER CANADA. 15$
The principal fruit of Upper Canada is the apple.
The various species of this most useful of fruits
grow in all the districts; but most plentifully
around Niagara, and thence westward to the De-
troit, where they have been cultivated with emu-
lation and success. No country in the world ex-
ceeds those parts of the province in this particular.
In the north eastern townships, orcharding has not
been so much attended to, and perhaps the soil,
although good for fruit, is not so peculiarly adapted
to it. But there are many considerable orchards,
most of them young, and some valuable nurseries of
trees, not yet transplanted. A general taste for
apples and for cider, a beverage most suitable to
this climate, begins to prevail.
Peaches flourish at Niagara, and at the head of
lake Ontario ; but not on the northern shore of that
lake. Cherries, plums, pears, and currants, succeed
in every part of the country. Strawberries grow
freely in the meadow, and are cultivated with suc-
cess in gardens.
Sarsaparilla, spikenard, gold thread, elecampane,
lobelia, bloodroot, and ginseng, are native plants
The latter root, when dried, has a sweetish taste,
similar to that of liquorice, but mixed with a de-
gree of bitterness, and some aromatic warmth.
The Chinese esteem it very highly; and it might
therefore be a valuable article of exportation to
China ; but it seems to be neglected.
Snake root also is a native of this province. It
is of a pungent taste, and is stimulant and sudo-
rific. The Indians are said to apply it as a remedy
154 SKETCHES OF
for the bite of rattlesnakes, and hence its name is
derived.
Spearmint, hyssop, wormwood, winter-green,
water-cresses, penny-royal, catnip, plantain, bur-
dock, horehound, motherwort, mallows, and
many other aromatic and medicinal plants are in-
digenous.
White clover springs up spontaneously as soon
as the ground is cleared. Greensward also is spon-
taneous. There are several other native grasses.
But red clover, and most of the useful species of
grass must be sown, and then they grow very well.
The most common are Timothy, herdsgrass, foul
meadow, and red clover. Lucerne is cultivated
in some places.
The soil, however, is not so favourable to grass
as to grain.
Wheat is the staple of the province. When
the land was first opened, the crops of this pre-
cious grain were luxuriant. They are still plen-
tiful, although they become less abundant, as the
land grows older.
Wheat, that is sown as early as the 1st of Sep-
tember, is found to be less liable to be winter
killed, as it is termed, than that which is later
sown, the former being more firmly rooted in the
ground. As this injury from the frosts of winter,
or more commonly of spring, is one of the princi-
pal causes of a failure of crops, it is an object of
importance to the husbandman to seed his wheat
fields in good season. Some years ago, when the
country was infested by that destructive insect,
3
UPPER CANADA. 155
erroneously named the Hessian fly, it was dan-
gerous to sow this grain early, because it was then
more exposed to the ravages of the insect. But,
happily, that scourge of agriculture is no longer
felt here*.
Other grains, such as rye, maize (here called
Indian corn), pease, barley, oats, buck-wheat, &c.
are successfully cultivated. The townships round
the bay of Quinte, produce large harvests of pease,
and generally furnish supplies of that article of
provisions for the troops of the various garrisons.
Wild rice grows in marshes, and on the margin
of lakes. It has even given a name to the Rice
lake, a small lake about 25 miles long, from south
west to north east, and four or five miles wide, in
the district of Newcastle, north of Hamilton and
Haldimand.
Wild fowls feed and fatten on this spontaneous
grain. The Indians also gather it, by thrusting
their canoes into the midst of it, and then beating
it into the canoes with sticks. They eat it them-
selves, and sell it to the white inhabitants, who
use it in puddings and other modes of cookery.
It is rather larger than the Carolina rice, and its
shell is of a dark brown colour.
The soil in all districts of the province is adapted
to flax, and in some of them to hemp. Legisla-
tive encouragement has been given to the latter.
Seed has been purchased and distributed gratis;
a bounty has been granted to the growers of it, in
* This paragraph was written in 1811, since which time the
insect has reappeared, and almost destroyed many fields of wheat.
156 SKETCHES OF
addition to the price they could obtain for it in the
market ; and at last a liberal price, above that of
the market, has been paid by government, for the
purchase of the hemp, on public account.
The gardens produce, in abundance, melons,
cucumbers, squashes, and all the esculent vegeta-
bles and roots, that are planted in them. The
potatoe, that most valuable of all roots, for the use
both of man and beast, finds a congenial and pro-
ductive soil.
The country is not free from noxious weeds.
Among others there are two species of thistles;
one of them indigenous, which is prevalent in the
United States also ; the other, not a native of this
province, but brought up from Lower Canada,
among seed oats and pease, or some other grain.
It has already spread very generally, except in the
western districts. It has, likewise, passed from
Canada into the United States, where it has re-
ceived the name of the Canadian thistle, and is
now known by that name even here. It is of a
smaller leaf and stalk than the common thistle,
and is not so easily eradicated. It is very trouble-
some, especially in grain ; but grass overpowers it,
and gradually roots it out*.
An English gentleman of science, who has re-
sided here twenty years, is of opinion that it is the
proper thistle of Europe, brought over in seed from
France, first into Lower Canada, and thence into
the Upper Province.
* It is our common running thistle. No doubt imported from
Europe. R. G.
UPPER CANADA. 157
SKETCH XII.
ANIMALS OF THE FOREST.
Bison— Buffalo — Elk — Moose — Wolf — Bear—
Wolverene — Wild Cat — Catamount — Deer — *
Antelope—Fox — Otter— Beaver— Muskrat— Mink
— Fisher— Marten— Racoon— Porcupine— Wood-
chuck — Skun k — Weasel — Ermine — Hare
Squirrel — Rat — Mouse.
SEVERAL species of the animals of this country
having been confounded, and others erroneously
or imperfectly described, a more speci fie description
of them is, for that reason, necessary.
The Bison is an animal of the western regions,
scarcely known in the inhabited districts. He is
of the cow kind, cloven-hoofed, ruminating, gre-
garious and very large, weighing, in some instances,
two thousand pounds, shy and fearful of man, un-
less wounded, when he turns upon his hunters
and becomes dangerous. His colour is brown.
He has two short, black, round horns, with a wide
space between their bases. His shoulders are ele-
vated, and the depth from the withers to the bris-
ket is proportionally great. He tapers away be-
hind to a comparatively diminutive size. His tail
is about a foot long, and naked, except a tuft at
the end ; his legs short and thick ; his neck, fore-
head, chin, and dewlap, covered with long flocks
of woolly hair ; and, in the winter, the hair on his
158 SKETCHES OF
body is long and shaggy, although shorter and
more smooth in summer.
The Buffalo, an animal of the same genus, but
of a different species, is more common. In shape
he more resembles an ox. He has two short,
rounded horns. His hoofs are cloven, and he ru-
minates. His colour is a brown, but darker than
that of the bison ; his limbs clumsy, and his gait
heavy. His skin forms very strong, durable, soft
leather, and when dressed with the hair on, it is
still more valuable as a coverlid or wrapper for
persons riding in sleighs. The flesh is good meat.
The Elk is the largest species of the deer kind.
He is very distinct from the moose, although they
have been confounded by European writers. His
neck is longer than that of the moose, and his head
more similar to that of the horse or common deer.
The horns are not palmated like those of a moose,
but consist of three divisions ; 1st, The brow ant-
lers ; 2d, The two middle prongs, called the
fighting horns ; and, 3d, The horns properly so
called. He sheds his horns annually. A pith,
about four inches in length, is left, whicb is soon
protected by a cover resembling velvet. In eight
weeks the horns begin to grow again, and soon
acquire their proper size. An Upper Canada elk,
that had not attained his full growth, was measured
as follows :
Feet. Inches.
Distance between the roots of his horns, 0 4
Brow antlers - •«:- , - 16
Fighting horns ,j- . 16
Longest horn - ' - "•'* 3 0
UPPER CANADA. 159
From the tip of one horn to the other 2 6
Length from the top of the nose to the
tail along the back - - 73
Height * 7
Round the girth or belly - 56
the withers ;J'«M - 4 10
Length of the head •'- :>< - 1 11
of the tail 0 3
From the extremity of one ear to the
other - 22
Length of the ear 0 9
The brisket of the elk resembles that of the ox.
His hoofs are very much cloven, and he makes a
clattering with them as he travels, yet he is fleet.
The Moose also is of the deer kind. He has
horns with short beams, spreading into abroad palm,
with sharp snags on the outward side, but the inner
side plain ; has no brow antlers; small eyes ; long
ears ; large nostrils; the upper lip square, large, and
hanging over the lower, with a deep furrow in the
middle of it; under the throat a small excrescence,
with a long tuft of black hair depending from it :
his neck short, and along the top of it an upright,
short, thick mane; withers elevated; tail short;
legs long, but the hind legs the shortest; his hoofs
much cloven ; his height from five to seven feet ;
the length of his horns about four feet; breadth of
one of the palms about a foot; distance between
the tips of his horns four or five feet; the colour of
his mane light brown, overspread with grey; that of
his body a dun colour mixed with dark red. His
hair is long and elastic, and very suitable for mat-
160 SKETCHES OP
tresses. His gait is a shambling trot, but he runs
with great velocity. He ruminates like the ox.
When he grazes he takes advantage of some ascent
of ground, on account of the shortness of his neck.
His flesh is excellent food. The nose or up-
per lip is esteemed a delicacy.
The Wolf is of the dog kind. His weight has
been known to exceed 90 pounds. His dimen-
sions, according to the measure of a skin, have
been found as follows :
•• Ft. In.
Length of the body - 50
Circumference - 29
Fore legs - 16
Hind legs ^ ,,,*.•} , 13
Tail 1 6
His colour is a dirty sallow or grey, with a black
list along his back. His hair is long, coarse, and
hard, with a mixture of shorter and finer hair near
the roots, of a dun ash colour. The skin, when
dressed with the hair on, has a shaggy inelegant
appearance, and is valued accordingly. He is a
very voracious animal, and commits his depreda-
tions generally in the night. The howling of
wolves, when they herd together, as they some-
times do, is loud and terrific. The author of
Guthrie's Geographical Grammar has this extra-
ordinary passage, "Wolves are scarce in Canada,
but they afford the finest furs in all the country.
Their flesh is white, and good to eat; they pursue
their prey to the tops of the tallest trees." Imagi-
nation could hardly invent four assertions more
UPPER CANADA. 161
destitute of correctness than those, which form
this description. In point of numbers, the country
is almost overrun with them. No other beast of
prey has been, or is now, so much dreaded, or so
destructive. From the commencement of the
province, with the exception of only one year, the
government has granted a bounty for the killing of
wolves; and in many settlements, the inhabitants
have, by voluntary subscription, given additional
rewards, besides forming themselves into personal
associations, for the purpose of hunting and destroy-
ing them. By such means many of them are
destroyed in the settled parts of the province.
The North West Company, as the reader has seen
in their list of peltries, collect 3,800 wolf skins
annually, in the unsettled regions of the north
west. And after all, these wild dogs are so far
from being "scarce," that although their depreda-
tions become every year less, they are still a check
to the multiplication of sheep, which are folded in
the night through the season, even in some of the
most populous townships, to secure them from these
enemies. The coarseness of their fur, or rather
shag, has been already mentioned. It is proverbial.
Their flesh is not more fit for food than that of
domestic dogs, nor can they any more ascend the
tallest trees in pursuit of their prey.
The Bear of Canada is larger than that of Europe.
He has been known to weigh more than 400
pounds ; whereas the weight of the European bear,
as stated by Buffon, is only 153 pounds, 7 ounces.
His colour is a dirty black. He feeds upon fruit, ber-
M
162 SKETCHES OF
ries, nuts, corn, &c. and for want of such vegetable
food, devours domestic animals, such as sheep,
calves, and pigs. He is capable of climbing trees
that are large enough to fill his grasp. In the
winter he lies in a torpid state, concealed in a
hollow log, a cavern, or some other place of
security. This fact, strange as it may seem, and
unaccounted for as it is on philosophical principles,
is attested by too many witnesses to be disbelieved.
The bear's skin dressed with the shag on, is next
in use and value to that of the buffalo. The flesh
also is good meat ; and the Indians make great use
of the fat or grease *.
The Wolverene, sometimes called the Carcajou,
is about two feet and nine inches long; his cir-
cumference one foot and ten inches ; his legs short ;
feet large and strong ; tail about seven inches,
black and bushy ; hair near two inches long, and
very coarse ; his head sallow grey ; back almost
black; breast spotted with white; belly dark
brown, and sides light brown. He lives in holes,
is clumsy, and slow in motion.
The Wild Cat, or Canadian Lynx> is of a grey
colour, brindled and spotted with black, and re-
sembles an overgrown cat, except that the tail is
short, in which respect he differs from the wild cat
of Europe, and appears to be of the lynx kind.
He preys upon deer and domestic animals.
The Catamount^ or Tiger Cat, sometimes impro-
* I have been told that there are two kinds of bears in Canada,
the long and short legged. — R. 6.
UPPER CANADA. 163
perly named the Panther, is of the cat kind, very
distinct from the wild cat, although there has been
a confusion in the description of them. He is
about five feet long, and two in circumference, with
a tail half as long as his body, and his legs about a
foot in length. His colour is a reddish brown,
with black spots, and a stripe along his back. His
prey is cattle and deer. He is fierce and dangerous
to hunters. His usual mode of attack is by leap-
ing from a tree.
The forests of Upper Canada abound with the
common Deer, a beautiful and valuable animal.
His flesh, well known by the name of venison, is
delicate, and his skin of great value. His weight
sometimes amounts to near three hundred pounds.
One of common size weighs from a hundred to two
hundred pounds. In the spring he sheds his hair,
and appears of a light red. His colour gradually
grows less bright, until autumn, when it becomes
a pale brown, and continues so through the winter,
and until he sheds his coat of hair again in the
spring. His horns are slender, round, and curved,
with branches on the anterior side. These branches
do not shoot until the second season, from which
period a new one is added every year, by which
the hunters compute his age. The horns are an-
nually cast, and grow anew in the course of the
season, to the length of perhaps two feet, and the
weight of from two to four pounds. He leaps
with great agility over fences and streams. The
fawns are red, and beautifully spotted. They are
gentle in their nature, and easily domesticated.
M 2
164 SKETCHES OP
Hunters, in the western parts of the province,
have in a few instances met with the Antelope, a
species of wild goat; a fleet, quick scented, timid
animal, not easily killed or taken. That cunning,
voracious animal, the Fox, is found here of three
species, or colours, red (or brown), grey, and black.
The former is the most common. People in the
eastern part of the province speak of another
species, called the cross fox, distinguishable from
the common fox, only by a stripe of black along
his back, crossed by another black stripe over his
shoulders. I have never seen one, nor been able to
obtain very particular information on the subject.
The Otter has been described as an amphibious
animal, but is not properly of that, description ;
for, though he is fitted with membraneous feet for
swimming, as well as running, he cannot live
without the respiration of open air. He is from
four to five feet in length, with short legs, and is
strong, fierce, and voracious. His colour is black,
shaded with grey under the neck, breast, and belly ;
and his fur is much esteemed.
The Beaver is amphibious. Of this ingenious
and industrious creature, hunters and travellers, in
the early period of settlements in this country,
related some marvellous things, which are now
discredited. His length is from two and a half
to three feet. His tail is oval, scaly, and destitute
of hair, and nearly a foot long. His hair is very
fine, smooth, glossy, and of a chesnut colour, ap-
proaching to a black. His fore teeth are sharp
and strong, adapted to the purpose of gnawing
UPPER CANADA. 165
wood. He feeds on leaves and the bark of trees ;
and when eating, sits upright, and applies the food
to his mouth with his paws, like a squirrel. He
moves slowly on land, but more easily in the water.
Beavers associate in families or communities, and
unite in felling trees, building darns, and accommo-
dating themselves with houses adapted to their
nature and habits. Many of these dams remain in
the settled districts, but the beavers have generally
retired into the wilderness, where they are still
caught in great numbers, and their fur is in the
highest estimation all over the habitable world.
According to the returns of the North West
Company, they have collected more than a hun-
dred thousand beaver skins in a year.
The MuskRat,ov Musquash, is of the amphibious
tribe, about fifteen inches in length, his back of a
dark colour, his sides brown, his hair short, and
his tail about a foot long.
The Mink also is a small amphibious animal, of
smooth shining fur, proverbially black, with a
round tail, flattened towards the end, and destitute
of hair.
The Fisher, sometimes called the Black Fox, an
animal about two feet long, black, except his neck
and head, which are grey, is caught for his fur.
The Martin, a small animal of a long body, with
short legs, is highly valued for his fur, which is
generally brown, shaded with a darker colour. Of
this species there are two varieties, the yellow
breasted, and the white breasted. The former is
most valued, being the largest and of the darkest
166 SKETCHES OF
colour. The North West Company have pro-
cured more than thirty thousand martin skins in a
year.
The Racoon^ in his body, resembles a beaver,
but is not so large ; his head and teeth are similar
to those of a dog : his fur is thick, long, and soft,
of a brown colour, with black at the ends of the
hairs; his tail long and round, with annular stripes
on it, like a cat's tail ; and his claws so sharp, that
they enable him to ascend trees, and run out on
their boughs. He feeds on fruit, nuts, and corn,
and his flesh is tolerable meat.
The Woodchuck, or Ground Hog, as he is some-
times called, from his burrowing in the ground, is
a short, thick animal, about fifteen inches in length.
His fore feet are broad, and fitted for digging. His
fur is of a reddish grey colour, and his flesh is
eatable. He lies in a torpid state through the
winter.
The Canadian Porcupine is about two feet long,
and fifteen inches in height, covered with long
brown hair, intermixed on the back, sides, and tail,
with stiff spines or quills of a white colour, tipped
with black, about four inches long, as thick in the
middle as a wheat straw, but smaller at the roots,
and tapering to a sharp point at the ends. His legs
are short, and his claws so sharp that he can climb
trees, which he does for security, and also to eat
the bark and balsam of the fir. When attacked,
and unable to reach a tree, he turns his nose down,
and coils himself together so as to present only the
quilly part of his body to the assailant. The
UPPER CANADA. 167
quills are easily loosened and scattered around ;
but the vulgar notion that he shoots them is un-
founded. They have a sort of barb, which renders
them difficult to be extracted, when they have pe-
netrated the body of any animal. The Indians
make use of the quills for ornaments ; and the
flesh is an agreeable and wholesome meat.
The Skunk is of the same genus with the pole
cat, but of a different and smaller species. His
weight is six or seven pounds, his hair long and
white, with long spots or stripes of black on the
sides; his tail bushy, like that of the fox. He
lives in the woods and hedges, but often burrows
under bams and out houses. While undisturbed,
he emits no disagreeable odour or effluvium, and
may remain a long time under the floor of a stable,
for instance, without being perceived ; but whea
assailed or pursued, he ejects, by way of defence,
a subtle penetrating fluid, of a musky but intoler-
able scent, which infects the air for a considerable
distance round, and repels a dog, or any other pur-
suing enemy. If a drop of it lights upon a person's
clothes it is grievously offensive, and extremely
difficult to be expunged. Notwithstanding the
opinion which once prevailed, it is ascertained by
anatomical dissection, that this fluid is altogether
distinct from the urine. It is contained in bags
situated in the posterior part of the body, and sur-
rounded by circular muscles, in such a manner,
that, by their constriction, it is forced out with
great velocity and violence.
The Weasel is a small, slim, quick-sighted ani-
168 SKETCHES OF
mal, not more than six or seven inches in length,
weighing less than a pound, of a whitish colour, with
some pale yellow on the back, destructive to poul-
try, and equally so to squirrels, mice, &c.
The Ermine, or White Weasel, is a rare, beau-
tiful animal, rather larger than the common weasel,
of a clear white, with a tip of black on the tail,
and of a very fine delicate fur. He is so seldom
found, that his habits are but little known.
The Canadian Hare is white in winter, and of
a brown or dun colour in summer, valuable for the
flesh as well as the fur*.
There are four species of Squirrels. The grey
and black are the largest ; the striped is the smallest;
and the red squirrel is of an intermediate size.
Although, for the sake of distinction, he is deno-
minated red, his colour is rather a reddish grey on
the back and sides, and his belly is white.
The Flying Squirrel has been seen here, but is
rare. This singular creature is about six inches
long, of a russet grey on the back, and white on
the under parts, and has a sort of wings composed
of the skin or membrane extended between his fore
and hind legs ; by means of which he buoys him-
self up in the air, and, with a leap, sails to a con-
siderable distance, as from tree to tree, or from one
bough to another of the same tree.
* In summer its breast and belly remain white. In size, it is
smaller than the English hare, and larger than the rabbit; indeed,
it looks much like a mongrel between these species. They are
very seldom seen. — R. G.
3
UPPER CANADA. 169
That pest of both house and barn, the Eat, was
not, until the hte war, an inhabitant of Upper Ca-
nada, except in the eastern district, to which it
was said he had travelled, or been transported from
the Lower Province. During the war these de-
structive animals were brought iu packages, on
board boats, into various parts of the province.
The Mouse is a common and troublesome little
enemy, too well known every where to require any
description. Field mice are more numerous here
than in the United States, and do more injury, es-
pecially to fruit trees, by gnawing off their bark
under the snow in the winter. Orchards of con-
siderable growth are, in this way, frequently de-
stroyed by them.
SKETCH XIII.
DOMESTIC ANIMALS.
Horse — Ox and Cow — Sheep — Swine — Poultry.
OF all the domestic animals the noblest is the
Horse. The horses of Upper Canada are of the
American, the English, and Canadian French
stocks. The first are the predominant species.
The last are generally short, thick, and dull, not
adapted to the saddle, but hardy and serviceable
as drudges in the collar on a farm. They were
never very numerous in this province, compared
170 SKETCHES OF
with Lower Canada, and their proportion is di-
minished. There are few full blooded English
horses ; but considerable portions of English as
well as French blood are intermixed with the Ame-
rican breed.
The horses of the country have been improved
in their appearance, and a taste for further improve-
ment is gaining ground ; although the unfinished
state of the roads, and the moderate circumstances
and simple manners of the inhabitants, have pre-
cluded that passion for equipage and elegant horses,
which prevails in more populous and luxurious
places.
I am not singular in the opinion that the farmers
keep too many horses, in proportion to their oxen,
considering the difference in their expences, the
greater liability of the former to diseases and acci-
dents, and the value of the latter for beef. The
assessment lists for 1810 contained 9982, almost
10,000 horses, three years old, and upwards, and but
5991 oxen, four years old, and upwards.
The oxen, however, are of a good stock, and so
are the cows ; but large dairies are not frequent,
although there were, in 1810, according to the as-
sessment returns, 18,445 cows in the province.
Sheep would be more numerous were they not
exposed to the ravages of wolves. As the country
becomes more settled, that evil decreases. The
spirit lately diffused through the United States for
improving the breed of sheep, with a view to the
quality of their wool for domestic manufactures,
has already begun to find its way into this province.
UPPER CANADA. 171
Lord Selkirk's sheep are a mixture of several valu-
able European stocks. His wool is not manufac-
tured in the province, but exported to Scotland.
The Canadian hogs are of a good size and quality.
In fattening them the inhabitants make considerable
use of pease, which are produced in greater plenty
than Indian corn. When the market for grain is
high, pork cannot be afforded for exportation.
The poultry of the country consists of turkeys,
.geese, hens, ducks, and pigeons.
SKETCH XIV.
BIRDS.
General List of Birds — Wild Turkeys — Geese
Ducks — Canadian Partridge — Quail — Robin—
Loon— Whipperwill— Mocking Bird — Sawyer—
Swan— Cuckoo — Annual Migration of Birds.
A GENERAL list of the native Birds of Upper Ca-
nada, not technically classed or described, but enu-
merated by their popular names, in the common
language of the country, is as follows: the tur-
key, goose, swan, duck, brant, water hen, partridge,
quail, pigeon, robin, eagle, hawk, raven, crow, vul-
ture, owl, whipperwill, bat, barn swallow, chimney
swallow, martin, lark, heron, pelican, loon, gull,
snipe, pluver, diver, kingfisher, blackbird, bluebird,
blue jay, mockingbird, kingbird, woodpecker, wood-
cock, redbird, cuckoo, sawyer, sparrow, yellowbird,
172 SKETCHES OF
snowbird, phebe, groundbird, hangbird, wren, and
hummingbird.
Wild Turkeys do not frequent the bank of the
St. Lawrence, or the north shore of lake Ontario,
but are numerous* from the head of that lake, west-
ward, and south ward. They differ very little from do-
mestic turkeys, except that they are generally larger.
Wild Geese are migrating birds, and can hardly
be said to belong to any particular region, unless
it be the northern islands and shores, where they
lay their eggs and rear their goslings. In their
annual tours to and from those shores and islands,
they visit this country, and are killed and taken in
considerable numbers.
Ducks of several species are found in plenty on
the margin of the lakes, creeks, and streams.
Among other species there is one called the Wood
Duck, from its frequenting the woods, and perching
and nesting on the branches of trees. In shape
and size it agrees with other ducks; in flavour, its
flesh is superior, as it feeds less on fish. Its plu-
mage is variegated and brilliant.
The Partridge of Canada is the same as in New
England, but in Pennsylvania, is known by the
name of the Pheasant. He is not so large as a
domestic hen ; has a crest on his head, and a ruff
on each side of the neck, varied with black stripes,
and raised or depressed at pleasure; the plumage
in general is brown, shaded with a ferruginous co-
lour, and marked with black lines and bars ; the
colour of the under part is light, striped with
* They are now scarce : they weigh from 16 to 30lbs. — R. G.
UPPER CANADA. 173
brown ; the tail is large, and when expanded re-
sembles a fan, of an orange ground, delicately
lined and barred with black, and having near the
end a band of ash colour, another of black, and a
white border; the legs and feet are booted with
white feathers to the toes. The female is smaller
than the male ; has neither crest nor ruff, and is
sometimes mistaken for a different species of bird.
The cock partridge has a singular habit of drum-
ming, as it is termed. He stands on a stump or
log, and begins to beat with his wings, once in about
two seconds of time, repeating the beats quicker
and quicker, until they run into one undistinguish-
able sound continued for a minute or two. It is
often heard half a mile, and guides the listening
hunter to his game. The flesh of the partridge is
white and delicate, but rather dry.
The Quail of Canada is known by the same
name in New England; but in Pennsylvania is
named the Partridge.
The Canadian Robin is the same as that in
the United States, but larger than the English
robin, not so red on the breast, and has some black
feathers on the head and tail. Their notes also
are different. The robin of this country appears to
be a species of the English thrush.
The Loon is a water fowl, of a dark colour, with
some specks of white. His feet are stiff, and not
adapted to travelling on land. He is a diver, so
quick and vigilant, that he is not easily shot ; lives
most of the time in the water, but sometimes flies.
His flight is generally low, frequently brushing the
water. At certain periods, usually before a storm,
174 SKETCHES OF
he screams, in a shrill plaintive voice, like some
person in distress; and is neither valuable nor mis-
chievous, except in feeding on fish.
The Whipper Will, or Whip-poor- Will, is a bird
of the evening, seldom seen or heard at any other
time. His colour is dark, with whitish stripes;
his shape like that of a hawk ; his bill hooked, and
his wings formed for swiftness. His appearance in
the spring was considered by the Indians an in-
dication of the proper season for planting their corn.
He will sit on some fence, log, or stone, near a
house, and repeat during a whole warm evening, a
plaintive sound, imitating the three syllables of the
word by which he is named.
The Mocking Bird, or Brown Thrasher, a spe-
cies of the thrush, imitates the notes of many
other birds and some beasts.
The Sawyer, or Whetsaw, is so named from the
sound of his voice, which resembles the whetting
of a saw.
The Swan is a rare bird ; but has been seen and
killed on the margin of lake Erie.
The Heron, vulgarly pronounced Hern, has such
an affinity to the crane, that I cannot ascertain from
the information of observers, whether the latter
exists here or not.
The Canadian Cuckoo, is not the bird that bears
that appellation in England, but has obtained the
name here from an imitation of the sound of that
word.
Among a number of Larks the proper Sky Lark
is not found.
There are various species of Eagles, Hawks,
UPPER CANADA. 175
Owls, Woodpeckers, Blackbirds, &c. and several
small birds, without appropriate names. Most of
the birds of this country reside here in summer
only. In the autumn they resort to warmer cli-
mates, spend the winter there, an4 return in the
spring.
SKETCH XV.
FISHES.
Sturgeon — Mosquenonge — Lake Salmon — Salmon
Trout— Trout — White Fish — Pike — Pickerel
-—Bass— Perch— Cat Fish— Eel Pout—Dace—
Chub— Mullet— Carp— Sucker— Dog Fish— Bill
Fish — Lamprey— Silver Eel — Herring — Sun Fish
— Various Modes of Fishing.
THE Sturgeon is the largest fish of the lakes, al-
though not so large as the sea sturgeon caught at
Albany and Quebec. A more essential difference
is that his back is smooth, whereas that of the sea
sturgeon has scaly knobs or shells on it. The lake
sturgeon is a good fish for eating. A large one
weighs from 75 to 100 pounds. The fish glue,
known in the commercial world by the name of
isinglass, can be produced from this sturgeon, as
from the inhabitant of the Caspian sea and its tri-
butary streams. I have made the experiment, and
it succeeded. The process is easy. The proper
glue is the interior membrane or lining of the
2
176 SKETCHES OP
air bladder, from which it is easily separated. It is
then dried in the sun, and pressed into smoothness
and a convenient shape, by a weight placed on
it. The glue may also be extracted from the muci-
laginous parts of the fish. Shell-backed sturgeons
have been taken in lake Ontario, but they are rare.
The Mosquenonge is a rare fish, and is esteemed by
some people the best that is taken in lake Ontario,
although others prefer the salmon, which is more ge-
nerally known. In shape and still more in colour, the
mosquenonge resembles the pike, and appears to be
of the same genus ; but is thicker and larger than
the common pike, being in some instances about
four feet long ; and weighing 50 or 60 pounds.
Mr. M'Kenzie says, there are in lake Superior
trouts of three kinds. The same are found in
lake Ontario. They are, however, only varieties of
the same species. Two of them are usually called
salmon, and are in high estimation, and very com-
mon, especially on the north side of th^e lake. The
largest species are caught most plentifully in the
spring, and weigh from 15 to 25 pounds. In lake
Superior, according to Mr. M'Kenzie, their weight
is sometimes 50 pounds*. At Michilimackinac
also they are said to weigh 50 and some even 70
pounds. But in Erie and Ontario they are not so
large. They resemble the salmon of the sea, and
may be of the same family, with the difference oc-
casioned by their different water and food. The
* I have heard of trout taken in lake Superior, 80 and 90 pound*
weight.— R. G.
UPPER CANADA. 177
i
meat is similar in colour, but not so highly fla-
voured. I think the proper name of this fish is the
lake salmon. The next species is more frequent,
but of a whiter meat, and smaller in size, weighing
from 10 to 20 pounds, and taken in the greatest
abundance in the fall. This fish is like the trout of
the brooks, except being larger and without any
shining red spots on the sides. For the sake of dis-
tinction, he may with propriety be named the sal-
mon trout. The third is the common brook trout,
found in the lakes and the streams communicating
with them, and weighing from five pounds down
to one pound and less. This delicate, beautiful fish,
loves clear water and a gravelly bottom ; and is
not common in the lakes.
The White Fish, a species in many respects re-
sembling the shad of the Atlantic rivers, but more
round in shape and lighter in colour, and in some
respects similar to the herring, abounds in the lakes
in different degrees of perfection. In lake Onta-
rio, the weight is generally less, seldom more than
four pounds ; and the meat, although very good, is
not so high flavoured as the mosquenonge or sal-
mon ; whereas Mr. M'Kenzie states, that it is the
best in quality of all the fishes of lake Superior, and
weighs there from four to 16 pounds. Vast shoals
of them are taken at the foot of St. Marie's falls.
They are also caught in great quantities in some
parts of lake Ontario, particularly in Chaumont
bay, at the south eastern angle 01 the lake, and also
at the mouth of the Niagara, the south western
point. The south shore of the lake in general seems
N
178 SKETCHES OP
to he more favourable lo the white fish, as the north
shore is to the salmon. The white fish also
abounds in the small lakes, and streams connected
with them.
The Pike is longer and more nearly round than
fishes generally, being from two to four feet in
length, and weighing from three to 10 pounds, in
lake Ontario. In some of the other lakes, he is
said to be ot a superior size. His head is elongated ;
the nose beaked, the under jaw projecting be-
yond the upper; the teeth sharp; the body scaly;
the back of a bottle green, the belly white, and the
sides dappled with green, and a yellowish white ;
the tail torked; the dorsal fin (of one weighing 3f Ibs.)
having 18 rays, the anal fin 14, the ventral and
pectoral fins 10 rays. The meat is white and good.
The pike is a rapid swimmer, and a ravenous de-
vourer of smaller fishes and other animals. Even
the bones of a squirrel's head have been found in
his stomach, retaining their positions|with respect
to each other, but reduced to the state of a soft
cartilage by the process of digestion.
The Pickerel is flatter, deeper, less voracious, and
about a third shorter than the pike; of nearly the
same quality avnd colour, but not quite so green on
the back, nor so yellow on the sides, with some red
spots on the tail ; has two fins on the back ; one of
them (in a fish weighing 3| pounds) extending
four inches from a point over the gill fins, and hav-
ing 14 sharp pointed bony rays; the other right
over the anal fin, with 19 rays ; the anal fin with 13
rays ; the ventral fins five broad rays ; and the gill
UPPER CANADA. 179
fins 12 rays each ; the distance between the ventral
and gill fins about an inch.
The pike and pickerel are described with this
particularity, in consequence of the indistinctness
and confusion, which have prevailed respecting
them. In some places their names are applied
indiscriminately; and in others they are inter-
changed, the former being misnamed the pickerel,
and the latter the pike.
There are three species of lake Bass; the striped,
sometimes called the white or yellow, the black,
and the rock bass. Although differing in some
particulars of colour and magnitude, they have a
general resemblance and are numerous and excel-
lent. The black bass is the best.
The lake Perch, when fully grown, weighs about
a pound, is a good pan ufish, very common and
easily caught.
The Cat Fish of the lakes is from one to two feet
long ; the head large and round, with two sharp
horns, about two inches in length ; the space be-
tween the eyes, wide ; the body without scales,
round and tapering from the head towards the tail;
the fins bony and sharp ; the colour a dark brown,
inclining to purple, except under the belly, which
is whitish ; the weight from five to 20 pounds ;
the meat fat and of a good flavour.
The Eel Pout is singularly shaped, the body
being thick and the head flattened horizontally,
having on it prickly knobs, but no long thorns as
the cat fish has ; shovel-nosed ; not scaly ; in
N 2
180 SKETCHES OF
colour resembling the cat fish ; the weight from
one to three pounds.
The Dace is larger in the lakes than in brooks.
The Lake Chub looks like the dace, but is of a
better quality and superior beauty, being well pro-
portioned, and of various changeable colours,
bottle green, yellow, and white, with a tinge of red,
so shaded and checkered by its scales, in the form
of diamonds, as to exhibit a beautiful appearance.
The weight is from two to four pounds.
The Mullet is found in the lakes ; but not in
great plenty.
The Carp is a Canadian fish, of which there are
said to be two species or varieties in lake Superior.
There are also two species of Suckers in the lakes ;
one of them the same as in the rivers, being about
15 inches long; weighing from two to three pounds;
the back of a dark grey, and the belly white. It
is sometimes miscalled the mullet. Those of the
other sort are called red-finned suckers, one, of which
is before me, while writing this description. His
length is two feet, weight seven pounds and three
quarters; the line of the back from the nose to the
tail very much curved ; the nostrils large ; the mouth
circular, without teeth, and situated in the under
side of the jaws ; the body very scaly ; the colour
a mixture of light brown and yellow ; the belly and
lower fins tinged with red ; the dorsal fin having
15 rays, pectoral fins 14, ventral fins nine, and anal
fin six rays.
The Canadian Dog Fish weighs from one to
UPPER CANADA. 181
three pounds ; is scaly ; the belly whitish ; back and
sides of a dark colour, dappled with a still darker
shade ; the dorsal fin extending from the tail about
two thirds of the way towards the head ; has some
green on the lower part of the sides, also on the
tail fin, and the anal and two ventral fins, a remark-
able spot at the beginning of the tail fin, an uncom-
mon pocket beneath the under jaw, opening
towards the tail, and two little cartilages depend-
ing from the nose. This fish is not much esteemed.
The Bill Fish, although not eatable, is entitled
to notice for the singularity of his bill or beak,
which is about a foot long, and set with sharp
teeth. It is a formidable weapon of attack, with
which he drives the other fishes before him, and
appears to be the tyrant of the lake. It is no less
instructive than amusing, to see the smaller and
more defenceless fry, with instinctive precipitation,
fleeing in all directions upon the approach of a
bill fish, a cat fish, or a pike.
An English naturalist, with whom I have con-
versed on the subject, is confident, from his own
observations, that the bill fish of the lakes, is a
species of the European gar fish, notwithstanding
some diversity in their descriptions.
The Lamprey, or Lamper Eel, as it is vulgarly
pronounced, although valuable when caught in the
waters oi the sea, is here too flabby and insipid
to be eaten.
The Silver Eel is round, and from two to three
feet long; the back of a dark colour, tinged with
green; the belly white, and the sides of a silvery
appearance, whence the name is derived. It has
SKETCHES Of
fins, and a continued fin or membrane along
the back and belly, from about the middle of the
body to the tail. The skin is taken off before it
is cooked, and it is then delicious meat.
There is a lake Herring. Whether it is a variety
of the same species with the Dutch herring, or
totally distinct, I have not had an opportunity to
ascertain*.
The Sun Fish is a small, speckled, common, good
pan fish.
Various are the modes of taking fish in the lakes.
Many are taken with seins, chiefly in the autumn,
when large quantities are pickled and put up in
barrels, or dried and preserved for family use; some
are caught with hooks, at any season of the year,
even when the bays and sounds are covered with
ice, and holes are cut in it for the purpose. Others
are speared. This is frequently done in the even-
ing, by the light of a lamp or torch affixed to the
bead of a boat or barge. A favourite manner of
fishing in smooth water, is termed trolling. Hooks
are so fitted at the end of lines with flies, as to float
at some distance from the boat, while it moves
along. The fish coming up to the top of the water,
takes the hook, and is drawn in by hand. Fishing,
in short, unites business and amusement.
* The lake herring is considerably different from ours. It is
larger, softer in the meat, not so well flavoured, and not so hard
in the scales. These distinctions, however, may have been formed
by the different circumstances in which they have been placed;
and I am the more inclined to think so, because the herring caught
below Quebec, partake of the same distinctions but in a less de-
gree. Lake salmon differ from ours in the same way. — R. G.
UPPER CANADA. 183
SKETCH XVI
AMPHIBIOUS ANIMALS, REPTILES,
AND INSECTS.
Three Species of the Fresh Water Tortoise — Land
Crab — Rattlesnakes, Yellow and Black — Double-
headed Snakes — Frog — Toad — Tree Toad —
Bees.
SEVERAL amphibious animals have been des-
cribed among the inhabitants of the forest. A few
more will be added in this place.
Seals have been known to ascend the St. Law-
rence above the rapids. They have been seen
among the islands near lake Ontario; but such in-
stances have been rare and not very recent.
There are in Upper Canada three species of the
Fresh Water Tortoise, or what is called mud turtle.
None of them is the proper land tortoise, they
being all of them flatter in the back, and different in
other respects. Nor is any of them the sea turtle,
from which they differ in many particulars.
The largest of these Canadian Turtles is eaten,
and, if well cooked, is an excellent dish. The
belly is not entirely enclosed in a shell ; but there
is a narrow shell, connected at each end with that
of the back, and extending across the middle of the
under side, with a round shell or plate attached in
the centre to this narrow cross bar. The upper
184 SKETCHES OF
shell is a hard bony substance, consisting of many
regular pieces united by sutures, and overspread
with a thin horny scale, through which the seams
of the sutures are discernible, giving the back a
chequered appearance. The length of this back
shell is about a toot, and its breadth eight inches.
Its horizontal circumference forms a figure between
an ellipsis and a parallelogram. Its colour is a
dark brown, tinged with a greenish hue. The
under shell and under parts of the body are of a
dirty yellow, and the skin of those under parts of
the body is wrinkled and deformed with warts.
The tail is more than half as long as the back, of
the same colour, and covered with a rough scaly
coat. The legs are strong, the feet broad, and fur-
nished with claws, larger than those of a cat, al-
though not so sharp. The neck is extended or
contracted at pleasure, affording the head consider-
able scope. The want of proper teeth is supplied
by gums of bony ridges, with which the animal
bites most grievously. The ordinary weight is
from 10 to 15 pounds. Some are much larger.
The middle species, as to size, is most common,
and is not eaten. Its under side is wholly covered
with a shell ; and it draws its head, feet, and tail,
when it pleases, between the edges of its two
shells.
The third species is the smallest, but has the
longest tail in proport on to its body. Its back
shell is distinguished by protuberances.
These turtles are all amphibious and oviparous.
The eggs are not covered with a shell, like those of
UPPER CANADA. 185
fowls, but with a tough skin. They are as large
as bullets, some of them larger, and are deposited
in the sand, near the bank of some water.
The Land Crab, seen on the north shore of lake
Erie, from Detroit to Fort Erie, has some resem-
blance to a lizard.
Though Lizards are not numerous here, I have
seen and examined several. They did not differ
from those of the United States.
The country does not abound in venomous rep-
tiles, except near the west end of lake Erie, the
Detroit, and lake Sinclair, where they are said to be
numerous.
There are two species of Rattle- Snakes , vulgarly
distinguished by the names of the yellow, or large,
and black, or small, rattle-snake. The former is from
four to five feet in length, and the middle of the
body seven or eight inches in circumference, from
whence it tapers both towards the head and tail.
The neck is small, and the head flattened; the
eyes brilliant, with a red circle round the pupil.
The colour of the back is brown, beautifully varie-
gated with yellow and a tinge of red, and lined and
barred with black ; the belly a sky blue. Annexed
to the tail are rattles, as they are termed, consisting
of callous, horny articulations, of a brown colour,
hollow, and inserted one into another, so loosely as
to produce a rattling noise when shaken. It is com-
monly believed, but I do not know that it is ascer-
tained to be a fact, that an additional joint or rattle
grows every year; and that the age of the snake
may be thus determined. When approached, or
apprehensive of danger, he rattles with his tail,
186 SKETCHES OP
and coils himself up into a spiral wreath, with his
head erect in the centre, still rattling by way of
menace or alaim ; and upon being actually assailed,
suddenly uncoils himself with elastic force, and
without removing 'his posterior half from its place,
darts his head in a curve line at the object of his
rage, striking it it within his reach with two small
sharp teeth situated near the extremity of the
upper jaw, and surrounded at the root of each tooth
with a bag of yellow liquid venom, which infects
the wound made by the teeth. This poison is
active and dangerous, and, without some seasonable
antidote, often proves fatal.
The Black Rattlt-lSnake differs only in size and
colour, being not more than two thirds as long and
large, and having more black and less yellow on
his body.
Black rattle-snakes, though by no means com-
mon in the province, are not so rare as the yellow
species. Of the latter I have seen only one, and
but few of the former. The yellow rattle-s^ake
which I saw and examined, was kept in a cage,
and, as his keeper declared, had lived several weeks
without food.
There are some other snakes, but they are not
numerous or venomous.
Reports have been, and still are, in circulation,
respecting a serpent of unusual magnitude and kind,
said to have been seen, in a few instances, in lake
Ontario, near its northern shore; but I have obtained
no authentic information which justifies me in be-
lieving it to be any more than an overgrown water
snake of the common sort, discovered unexpectedly,
CANADA. 187
and imperfectly seen moving in the water, magni-
fied in appearance by its motion, and perhaps still
more by the force of an agitated imagination.
An English ^ent'eman resident in the province
has given me a description of a double-headed snake
which he saw here. The two heads branched from
the same n ck, and were apparently entire and per-
fect. In all other respects it appeared to be a young
striped or garter snake, six or seven inches long.
It was found with a number of others, similar in
size and appearance, except as to the head, within
a common garter snake, in that part of the belly
into which an old snake receives its young as an
asylum from danger. The old one being killed,
these young snakes were found in that situation.
The double-headed one being among the rest, al-
though differing from them in having two heads,
while they were single-headed, and in the usual
form, must be presumed to be a monstrous or un-
usual production of the same stock, and not of a
distinct species. These circumstances seem to
decide a question of more curiosity, perhaps, than
use, but one on which naturalists have been divided
in opinion.
That noisy, harmless animal, the Frog, and the
more odious^ but not more noxious, Toad, inhabit
this country, and possess their usual characteristic
properties.
The Tree Toad or Fro^, which is less known, is
likewise frequent in some parts of the province.
In shape he resembles the common toad, except
being more slim, and not half so large. He also
2
188 SKETCHES OF
has different and more tenacious claws, by which
he is able to stick to and ascend trees. He is, in-
deed, usually found on a tree, closely adhering to
the bark, or sitting in the crotch of some limb ; and
being pretty flat, and of a cloudy light brown
colour, is not easily distinguished. Nor is he much
more distinguishable on a post, fence, or stump.
Hence, probably, has originated the notion, that
he assimilates his colour to that of the substance,
whatever it is, on which he lights. The insides of
the hind legs are of a light yellow ; but that is not
discovered when he sits still. His note is a shrill
croak, or rather chirp, which is often heard, espe-
cially in the twilight and before a rain, his favourite
times of singing, while the animal himself, although
sought after, is invisible. Sometimes you may
hear several of them chirping alternately, with a
sort of responsive sociability.
I have not perceived any peculiarity of the in-
sects of this country worthy of particular notice.
Honey Bees are found in the woods, most fre-
quently in large swarms in hollow trees. Whether
these natives of America were inhabitants of this
part of it before it was settled by the whites, or
have since spread into the wilderness from their
settlements, which is more probable, they now
exist here both in a wild and domestic state, and
have lately been attended to with a degree of suc-
cess which recommends still further attention to
them, as a source of profit, comfort, philosophical
amusement, and moral instruction. The climate
and productions of the soil appear to suit them ;
UPPER CANADA. 189
and when hived and housed, at a small expense,
they collect their treasures, by their own voluntary
exertions, without injuring the crops of the garden
or the field.
SKETCH XVII.
i*i**tt CONSTITUTION.
The Constituting Act, a Legislative Charter.
HAVING traced the outlines of the history, situ-
ation, and settlement of the province, with its
climate, soil, productions, and animals, we will
next take a view of its institutions and establish-
ments, beginning with the constitution.
By constitution is here intended the establish-
ment of a regular form of government. This has
been effected in different countries in modes as
various as the forms of government themselves.
The English constitution has resulted from imme-
morial usage, and the proceedings of parliament
acquiesced in by the nation. In the United States
of America, constitutions have been reduced to
writing, and formally adopted by conventions
chosen by the people for that very purpose.
Upper Canada derives her constitution from acts
of the British Parliament, which are of the nature
of a legislative charter, and may be considered as
amounting to a solemn compact between the parent
kingdom and the province, establishing the form of
provincial government.
190 SKETCHES OF
SKETCH XVIII.
PROVINCIAL PARLIAMENT.
King, Council, and Assembly — legislative Council
— Number of Members — Qualifications — Ap-
pointment— Tenure — Speaker — House of Assem-
bly— Number of Members — Election Districts —
Qualifications of Electors Qualification of
Members— Proceedings at Elections — Decision of
contested Elections —Duration — Speaker — Rules
— Rights — Royal Assent to Bills- — Powers of
Provincial Legislature — Taxation of the Province
— Union of Monarchy, Aristocracy, and Demo-
cracy.
THE Act of the 31st of George III. constitutes
a legislative council and an assembly, which, with
his Majesty, compose the legislature of the pro-
vince, and are commonly styled the Provincial
Parliament.
The formation of each branch, the relative
powers of the two branches, and their joint autho-
rity, are worthy of separate consideration.
The requisite qualifications of a member of the
legislative council are, that he be 21 years of age,
and a British subject by birth, naturalization, or
the conquest and cession of Canada. There must
be at least seven members of the council, and may
be more at the discretion of the crown.
They are appointed by his Majesty. The mocfe
UPPER CANADA. 191
of their appointment is by writ of summons, under
the great seal of the Province, issued pursuant to a
mandamus under his Majesty's «is:n manual. The
tenure ot their appointment is during life, subject
to be forfeited for treason, or vacated by swearing
allegiance to a foreign power, or by two years con-
tinual absence from the province without the
governor's per mission, or four years of such absence
without the permission of his Majesty.
The king is authorized to grant hereditary titles
of honour, rank, or dignity of the province, either
with or without a right to a seat in the council
annexed to them ; but no such title has yet been
granted.
All questions respecting a right to a seat at the
council board, are to be decided by the council,
subject to an appeal to his majesty in parliament.
The speaker of the council is appointable and
removable by the governor, under which term I
would be understood to comprehend the lieute-
nant-governor, or other person administering the
government for the time being, without repeating
the several terms of official designation.
The legislative council is not, like the British
House of Lords, vested with judicial authority.
Whether an impeachment by the House of As-
sembly, and the trial of such impeachment by the
Council, be applicable to the state of the province,
and authorized by the constitutional act, upon the
principle of analogy to the British constitution, is a
question not settled by any decision. As offices,
however, are holden during the pleasure of
192 SKETCHES OF
crown, it appears to be a natural inference, that a
complaint in the nature of an impeachment must be
addressed to the king in council.
The assembly is required to be composed of not
less than sixteen members, chosen by the qualified
electors of the districts, counties, circles, towns, or
townships; such districts, &c. with the respective
numbers of their representatives, to be declared, in
the first instance, by the governor, but subject to
alteration by the provincial parliament. Two pro-
vincial acts have been passed on the subject, the last
of which, now in force, appoints the number of
members to be twenty-five, and establishes twenty-
one districts for their election, four of the districts
having two members each. These districts are not
described in the act by that name, but consist re-
spectively of a single county, two counties, a riding,
or a county and riding together, except that in one
instance, a township of one county is annexed to
another county. No town or township is repre-
sented by itself. This circumstance is mentioned
with a view to the different qualifications of the
electors.
The act defines certain qualifications and disqua-
lifications of electors. First, to be qualified to vote
in the election of a member for a district, county,
or circle, a person must be twenty-one years of age,
and a British subject by birth, naturalization, or the
conquest and cession of Canada, and must also be
possessed, for his own Use, of lands or tenements
within such district, county, or circle, held in free-
hold, or in fief, or in roture, or by certificate derived
UPPER CANADA. 193
from the governor and council of Quebec, of the
yearly value of forty shillings sterling, above all
rents and charges; to vote in the election of a
member for a town or township, a person must have
the same qualifications of age and allegiance, and
be possessed in like manner of a dwelling house
and lot of ground, in such town or township, held
in like manner, of the clear annual value of five
pounds sterling ; or must have been resident in the
said town or township, twelve calendar months,
and have paid one year's rent for the house of his
residence, at the rate of ten pounds sterling per
annum. There being no representation of towns
or townships, and, I believe, no lands or tenements
in this province, holden as fiefs in the old feudal
sense of that term, or by the French tenure of
roture, or by certificate from the governor and
council of Quebec, the single qualification, in
point of estate, is a freehold in the election dis-
trict, of the clear annual value of forty shillings
sterling.
" Persons/' being the word used in the act, in
the description of electors, and afemme sole being
within the legal definition of that term, it seems
that such a woman having the constitutional qua-
lifications of age, estate, and allegiance, is entitled
to vote at an election.
There is a British statute, 13 Geo. II. c. 75
which naturalizes all foreign protestants, after seven
years residence in any of the American colonies
belonging to Great Britain. Such a resident, there-
fore, in this province, is a British subject by natu-
o
194 SKETCHES OF
ralization, though not specially naturalized by-
name.
Residence in the election district is not required
of an elector. The consequence is, that a person
may vote in different districts in which he has the
requisite freehold.
No person is capable of voting who has been
attainted of treason or felony, or who is within any
description of persons disqualified by any act of
the provincial parliament. One such act has been
passed, declaring that no person who shall have
sworn allegiance to any foreign state, or been a
stated resident therein, shall vote until he shall
have been resident in this province, or some other
of his Majesty's dominions, for the term of seven
years, and shall have taken the oath of allegiance.
By the constitutional act, it is declared that
every voter, before he is admitted to give his vote
at an election, shall, if required by any of the can-
didates, or the returning officer, take an oath that
he has not voted before at that election ; and that,
to the best of his knowledge and belief, he has the
requisite qualifications.
It has been questioned, before the returning
officers at the polls, but I do not find that the
question has ever been carried to the Assembly
for decision, whether a Quaker's affirmation is
admissible, in this case, instead of an oath. If
not, that sober, pacific, moral sect of Christians,
being conscientiously scrupulous of an oath, are
in effect disqualified and excluded from the elec-
tive franchise. The British statute book furnishes
a satisfactory answer.
TWER CANADA. 195
The 7th and 8th of Will. III. c. 34, authorizes
the solemn affirmation of a Quaker instead of an
oath, in all cases except three. The 8th of Geo. I.
c. 6, prescribed a form of affirmation. A doubt
having arisen, whether such affirmation could be
allowed in a case, where, by a subsequent statute,
an oath is required without any provision for the
substitution of a Quaker's affirmation, the 22d
of Geo. II. c. 46. sect. 36, for removing that doubt,
enacted and declared, "That in all cases wherein,
by any act or acts of Parliament, now in force, or
hereafter to be made, an oath is or shall be allowed,
authorized, directed, or required, the solemn de-
claration of any of the people called Quakers, in
the form prescribed by the said act, made in the
8th year of his said late Majesty's reign, shall be
allowed and taken instead of such oath, although
no particular or express provision be made for that
purpose in such act or acts: and all persons who
are, or shall be, authorized and required to admi-
nister such oath, shall be, and hereby are authorized
and required to administer the solemn affirmation
or declaration ; and the solemn affirmation or
declaration so made, as aforesaid, shall be adjudged
and taken, and is hereby enacted and declared to
be of the same force and effect, to all intents and
purposes, in all courts of justice and other places,
where by law an oath is or shall be allowed, au-
thorized, directed, or required, as if such Quaker
had taken an oath in the usual form," and with a
proviso, as in the statute of William, that no
Quaker shall thereby be qualified to give evidence
o 2
196 SKETCHES OF
in criminal cases, to serve on juries, or to bear any
office or place of profit in the government.
Voting at elections is not within either of the
three exceptions. Most clearly, therefore, a Qua-
ker's solemn affirmation is admissible in that case,
instead of an oath. It is equivalent to an oath.
In a legal sense it is an oath, although not in the
usual form.
The qualifications of a member of Assembly also
are affirmative and negative; 1st. Affirmatively, he
must be 21 years of age, and a British subject by
birth, naturalization, or the conquest and cession
of Canada. 2d. Negatively, he must not be a
member of the Legislative Council; nor "a minister
of the Church of England, or a minister, priest,
ecclesiastic, or teacher, either according to the rites
of the Church of Rome, or under any other form
or profession of religious faith or worship." It
has been a question whether the four words, minis-
ter, priest, ecclesiastic, or teacher, all intend clerical
characters, described by these different terms, with
a view to comprehend all the names by which such
characters may be designated among different sects
of dissenters ; or whether the word " Teacher"
extends beyond persons ordained or licensed to
preach, so as to disqualify a lay exhorter of the
methodist denomination. The same words are
used in the 42d section of the act, in the same
order, but in a connexion which seems to limit
their application to persons in clerical orders. In
the enumeration of subjects, on which acts passed
by the provincial Council and Assembly are required
UPPER CANADA. 197
to be submitted to the British parliament, before
the King assents to them, there is this clause, "or
shall in any manner relate to granting, imposing,
or recovering any other dues or stipends, or emolu-
ments whatever, to be paid to or for the use of any
minister, priest, ecclesiastic, or teacher, according
to any religious form or mode of worship, in respect
of his said office or function." A lay exhorter can
hardly be considered a teacher, for whom, in respect
of his said office or function, dues, stipends, or
emoluments are granted, imposed or recovered.
In the disqualifying clause, however, the term
may have a more extended sense. Indeed the
construction of the constitution, on this point,
appears to be now settled, by the cases of Messrs.
Roblin and Willson, in which a majority of the
Assembly are of opinion that those two members,
being exhorters, although laymen, were within the
disqualification, and accordingly declared their seats
vacant. Upon constitutional principles, the As-
sembly is the proper tribunal to decide all questions
respecting the qualifications of its members.
No person can be a member of the Assembly
who has been attainted of treason or felony, or who
is within any description of persons disqualified by
act of the provincial parliament. By such an act,
passed in 1795, it was declared, that no person,
who had or should come into the province from
any place not under his Majesty's government, and
not having been a bona fide subject of the King
for seven years next preceding, should be eligible
until after seven years residence ; and by another
198 SKETCHES OP
act, passed in 1814, this term of qualificatory
residence is extended to 14 years. A representa-
tive is also required to have rateable property of
the assessed value of 200 pounds, 40 pounds of
which must be unincumbered real estate, in fee
simple, in his own right*.
There is one point of view in which the oath re-
quired of the members is connected with their qua-
lifications. It is enacted that no member of the
Legislative Council or Assembly shall sit or vote
until he shall have taken and subscribed an oath,
the form of which is prescribed in the act. Re-
specting this oath, a question has occurred, whe-
ther a Quaker's solemn affirmation may be substi-
tuted ? I should have supposed it might, as in the
case of an elector, agreeably to the act of the 22d.
of Geo. II, had not the Assembly decided other-
wise. Philip Borland, Esq. being elected a mem-
ber, signed and annexed to the return of his elec-
tion, a representation to the Assembly, that after his
election he had discovered that such an oath was
required, and was advised that an affirmation would
not be admitted ; that he was of the sect of Qua-
kers, and could not conscientiously take an oath,
but was willing to take and subscribe a solemn
affirmation to the same effect, if that might be
allowed, otherwise he must decline a seat in the
house, and submitted the question to their deter-
* Another act has been since passed, making the qualification
in point of property, to consist simply in the possession of 400
acres of land, free of incumbrance. R. G,
UPPER CANADA. 199
mination. The house resolved that his affirmation
was not admissible instead of an oath. A new
writ of election was accordingly issued to supply
the vacancy.
This constitutional question has never occurred
in the Legislative Council.
Having thus considered the qualifications of the
electors and the elected, we will now attend to
the proceedings at elections.
When a new Assembly is to be called, a procla-
mation to that effect is issued by the governor,
who appoints a returning officer in each election
district, and the time and place of holding the
election, and issues a writ of election, directed to
each returning officer, returnable in fifty days.
The votes are given, not by ballot, but by viva
voce, and the person elected must have a majority \
by which is not meant, as in some of the United
States, more than half of the whole number of
votes, but more than are given for any other
candidate.
A¥hen a vacancy accrues in the house, a writ of
election is issued, and similar proceedings are had
thereon.
The British act against bribery, and treating at
elections, is not in force in this province, and no
provincial law has been passed on the subject.
The manner of deciding contested elections is re-
gulated by a statute passed in 1805. Every petition
complaining of an undue election or return, must
state the grounds of complaint. In case the house
judge them sufficient, if true, a time not less than
200 SKETCHES OF
fourteen days, except by consent of parties, is
assigned for taking the same into consideration,
and notice thereof given to the petitioners and
sitting members. The members of the house, a
quorum of whom must be present, are sworn well
and truly to try the matter of the petition referred
to them, and a true judgment give according to the
evidence, and the witnesses on both sides are sworn
and examined at the bar of the house. The sitting
member does not vote in the decision, or on any
question arising in the course of the trial.
The Assembly continues for the term of four
years from the return day of the writs of election,
subject, nevertheless, to be dissolved in the mean-
time by the governor, who has also the power of
proroguing the Council and Assembly from time to
time, and of appointing the time and place of their
session, with this constitutional injunction, that
they shall be called together once at least every
year.
A prorogation is for a term not exceeding forty
days, and is repeated from time to time by pro-
clamation. The members are notified by letters of
the time of actual meeting for the transaction of
business. This mode of proceeding by repeated
short terms, instead of a single postponement to
the day of intended meeting, seems to be founded
upon the principle that a prorogation is irrevocable,
and that there is no authority to convene the legis-
lature within that period. A different fprm is prac-
tised within the United States. Before the close
of one session, the time of the commencement of
UPPER CANADA. 201
the next is fixed and made known, that all persons
concerned may have seasonable notice, and make
their arrangements accordingly. But in the interim
the president, or governor, has a discretionary
power to call them together by proclamation at an
earlier day, if any extraordinary occasion should
require it.
The parliament cannot com%ience a session
without being met and opened by the governor.
The house elect their own speaker, who is pre-
sented to the governc** for his approbation.
They also adopt their own rules and orders ; and
where they have none expressly adopted, they
govern themselves by those of the Commons of
Great Britain ; for which Hatsel is referred to as
an authority.
The rights and powers of the Assembly in re-
lation to the other branches, on subjects not defined
in the constitution, are considered to be in general
analogous to those of the British House of Com-
mons. Thus money bills originate in the Assembly,
and are not altered by the Council, although there
is no express provision to that effect in the consti-
tutional act. In 1816, the Council passed and sent
down to the House of Assembly a bill to regulate
the commercial intercourse with the United States,
and, for that purpose, laying certain duties on arti-
cles imported into the province. The House una-
nimously resolved, that it was an infringement of
their exclusive privilege of originating money bills,
jand refused to act upon it.
A bill passed by the Council and Assembly is
202 SKETCHES OF
not a law until it is assented to by his Majesty, or
by his representative in his name. Except in the
cases reserved by the constitutional act, the royal
assent must be given in the presence of the two
houses. In the session of 1815, a bill was passed
by both houses, and signed by the president ; but
when he appeared before the two houses to give the
King's assent to bills, that was mislaid, and not
to be found. It was adjudged not to be a law.
The representative of the King maybe a governor,
lieutenant-governor, or other person authorized to
administer the government. He usually has the
style of lieutenant-governor. A governor in chief,
appointed over all the British provinces in America,
resides at Quebec, and has the charge of the pro-
vince of Lower Canada.
When a bill has passed the two houses, it is pre-
sented to the lieutenant-governor, who assents to
it in his Majesty 's name, or withholds the royal
assent, or reserves it for the signification of his
Majesty's pleasure. If assented to by the lieute-
nant-governor, it maybe disallowed by his Majesty
at any time within two years, and then ceases to
be a law upon the signification of such disallowance.
If reserved, his Majesty may, at any time within
two years, assent to it, and then it takes effect as a
law upon the signification of such assent.
Bills passed on certain enumerated subjects, re-
specting religion, and its establishment and support,
are required to be reserved, and also to be laid
before both houses of the British parliament,
before being assented to by the King ; and if either
UPPER CANADA. 203
of the said houses address his Majesty against them,
he is restrained from giving his assent.
Thus constituted, the provincial Parliament is
authorized to pass laws, not repugnant to the con-
stituting act, for the peace, welfare, and government
of this province, which are declared to be valid
and binding, to all intents and purposes whatever,
within the province.
On one most important subject, that of taxation,
the British parliament has expressly and solemnly
renounced the exercise of all legislative power over
the province. By an act passed in the 18th year
of Geo. 111. (1778) it was declared, " That the
King and Parliament^ Great Britain will not im-
pose any duty, tax, or assessment whatever, pay-
able in any of his Majesty's colonies, provinces, or
plantations in North America, or the West Indies,
except only such duties as it may be expedient to
impose for the regulation of commerce, the net pro-
duce of such duties to be always paid and applied
to and for the use of the colony, province, or plan-
tation in which the same shall be respectively
levied, in such manner as other duties collected by
the authority of the respective general courts or
general assemblies of such colonies, provinces, or
plantations, are ordinarily paid and applied/' This
solemn declaration is recited, and thereby renewed,
in the act constituting Upper Canada; and thus
has become an essential part of the constitution.
Under this guarantee of an exclusive right of self-
taxation, the province was settled, and has thus
far progressed, and there is DO apprehension that
204 SKETCHES OF
the public faith, so sacredly pledged by both King
and Parliament, will ever be violated*
As the people understand that no taxes can be
levied upon them without the concurrence of their
immediate representatives, who, in common with
their constituents, must share in the burthen of
such taxes, there is, on this interesting subject, a
general spirit of contentment and satisfaction.
The government of Upper Canada is a mixture
of monarchy in the person of the King, aristocracy
in the legislative Council, and democracy in the
Assembly, with some variances, resulting from
practice, and the colonial state of the country,
it is an epitome of the English government.
,
SKETCH XIX,
EXECUTIVE GOVERNMENT.
Executive Powers vested solely in the King — His
Majesty's Representative in the Prdvince— Ap-
pointment of principal Officers — Their Salaries,
how paid— Subordinate Officers— Executive Coun-
cil
THE King is not only a constituent branch of the
provincial legislature, but is solely vested with the
supreme executive power, a part of which is exer-
cised by him immediately, and a considerable por-
UPPER CANADA. 205
tion of it, through the medium of his official repre-
sentative. The lieutenant-governor, and principal
officers, such as themembers of theexecutive council,
judges of the court of King's Bench, receiver and
auditor general, inspector general, attorney general,
solicitor general, surveyor general, secretary, &c.
receive their appointments and salaries directly
from the crown. The judges of subordinate courts,
sheriffs, magistrates, militia officers, &c. are ap-
pointed by the lieutenant-governor, in his Majesty's
name, and are compensated according to the pro-
visions of provincial laws.
The lieutenant-governor has a council, analogous
to the King's privy council, to advise him in the
executive department of government. The num-
ber of the members, their continuance in office,
and their qualifications, being undefined in the act
of parliament, are left to the discretion of the
crown. Petitions to the lieutenant-governor, on
executive subjects, are addressed to him in coun-
cil ; and the decisions, acts, and orders thereon
are by his excellency in council.
SKETCH xx.
*
JUDICIARY.
King's Bench — Court of Appeals — Resort to the
King in Council-— Courts of Assize and Nisi
Prius — District Courts — General Quarter Ses-
206 SKETCHES OF
sions — Courts of Requests — Jurisdiction of a
Justice of the Peace— Court of Probate — Surro-
gate Courts — Land Board — Importance of Judi-
cial Reports*
IN the judiciary department there is no court of
Chancery yet established; but there are a superior
court of civil and criminal jurisdiction, and various
inferior courts. The superior court, styled the
King's Bench, is composed of a chief justice and
two puisne justices; has powers similar to those
of the King's Bench, Common Pleas, and in mat-
ters of revenue, the Exchequer in England, and
holds four regular terms a year at the seat of go-
vernment. From this court a cause of £ 100 value,
or relating to an annual rent or duty of a. general
nature, may be carried by writ of error to the Court
of Appeals, consisting of the governor or chief
justice and executive Council ; from whose
judgment in a case of £500 value, or relating to
such rent or duty, an appeal lies to his Majesty in
Council. But I understand there has been only
one appeal from a judgment of the King's Bench,
since its establishment.
Commissions of Assize and Nisi Prius are an-
nually issued into the eight districts for the trial
of issues. One of the judges of the King's Bench
is in the commission for the eastern circuit, and
another for the western. In the commission of
gaol delivery he is associated with two or three
other gentlemen in each district. The attorney-
general attends one circuit, and the solicitor-
UPPER CANADA. 207
general the other, to conduct the prosecutions in
behalf of the King.
In each district there is a district court, con-
sisting of one judge or more, holding four terms a
year, and having cognizance of cases of liquidated
debts, not exceeding forty pounds, and of other
cases of contract ; also of personal property and
trespass, to the amount of fifteen pounds, except
assault and battery and false imprisonment, or
where the title to land comes in question.
There are courts of Sessions likewise in each
district, holden quarterly, by the justices of the
district, for the trial of trespasses and misdemeanors,
establishment of ways, ordering of district taxes,
appointment of certain officers, and regulation of
various matters of police.
Courts of Requests are holden, on the first and
third Saturdays of every month, at some appointed
place in each justiciary division of the districts,
by two or more justices of the peace, acting as
commissioners, for the trial of cases of contract, to
the amount of forty shillings, according to the
principles of equity and good conscience, with
authority to examine the parties as well as their
witnesses under oath.
A justice of the peace has not authority to try
actions. But in cases where a capias for debt is
issuable from the King's Bench, he may grant a
warrant to detain a debtor for a term not exceed-
ing eight days, to give the creditor an opportunity
of procuring such a capias ; and in criminal cases
he may issue a warrant to arrest a person charged
208 SKETCHES OF
with an offence; and upon examination, may com-
mit or recognise him for trial at the proper court.
He may also order sureties for the peace.
There is a Court of Probate for the province,
and a Surrogate Court, with probate jurisdiction
in each district.
There is a Land Board of Commissioners, with
equitable powers respecting the claims of heirs,
devisees, and assignees, to lands granted by the
crown, where patents were not issued on the grants
to the original nominees.
Issues in fact are tried at the assizes, district
courts, and sessions, by juries summoned by the
sheriff, from returned lists of the taxable inhabi-
tants of the district.
The adjudications of the Court of King's Bench
are highly respected, but are not easily and correct-
ly known for want of reports.
In all free countries the administration of jus-
tice is an interesting object, and the judiciary is
accordingly an important branch of government.
It is peculiarly so in this province.
The English criminal law is established as the
basis of the criminal code of Upper Canada ; and
the laws of England, with some exceptions, are,
in general terms, adopted as the rule of evidence
and decision, "in all matters of controversy rela-
tive to property and civil rights/' Besides the ex-
ceptions which are expressed, there is an implied
exception or omission of other parts of the English
laws, because of their local nature, their inappli-
cability to the state of the province, the want of
UPPER CANADA. 209
appropriate authorities to execute and administer
them, or the substitution of other provisions.
Under this qualified adoption of the laws of Eng-
land, without a legislative specification of them*
the Provincial Judiciary has the double task of
deciding what those laws are, and which of them
are in force here.
Upper Canada was for many years a part of the
province of Quebec, and of course subject to the
legislative ordinances of the Governor and Council
of that province ; and when it was erected into a
separate province, by the Act of 31st of George
111. establishing the present order of things, those
ordinances of the former government, so far as they
were not repugnant to the new constitution, were
left in force until they should be repealed by pro-
vincial statutes.
Some of them have been repealed expressly ;
some, perhaps, by necessary implication ; and
others still remain in force, although they are not
published among the laws of this province.
The acts of the British Parliament constituting
the government of this province, and the various
provincial ordinances and statutes, have intro-
duced principles and proceedings adapted to the
peculiar circumstances of the province, but va-
riant from the laws of England. The interpreta-
tion of these, as well as other laws, the legal con-
sequences deducible from them, their operation
upon the rules of common law, and their applica-
tion to the innumerable cases, which occur in
p
210 SKETCHES OF
practice, from the endless variety of human trans-
actions, are proper subjects of judicial decision.
The adjudications of the court of King's Bench,
subject to a revisionary check, are evidences of
the existing laws, as really as the acts of the le-
gislature, although subordinate thereto. They are
binding upon the inhabitants, and ought, therefore,
like the statutes, to be promulgated, in such an
intelligible form, that they, who are thus bound
by them, may have the means of knowing them,
in order to regulate their conduct thereby, so as to
avoid penalties, and secure their just rights, since
it is a necessary maxim of government, that no
man shall be permitted to plead ignorance of the
law, to excuse himself from liability to indictment,
or action for transgressing it ; or to support any
claim founded on contract, or relating to property.
This view of the subject shows the importance
of regular reports of those adjudications, and the
necessity of an authentic publication of them.
For, if they are not thus laid before the public,
and thereby placed within the reach of individuals,
how can they, without unreasonable expence, or
indeed at any price whatever, obtain a sufficient
knowledge of the rules on which their estates,
their rights, their personal liberties and lives may
depend ?
Without reports the decisions of the court are
liable to be misunderstood, misrecollected, and
misstated, even by professional men, and much
more by those who do not study and practise the
law professionally.
UPPER CANADA, 211
Bare copies of the records, which however could
hot be procured without much trouble and cost,
would not alone explain the principles on which
cases are decided, the reasons of decision not being-
stated at large in a record as they are in a report.
But if printed reports were obtainable, every
one would have it in his power to examine them
for himself, or, at his election, to consult those
whose profession it is to understand the laws, and
to assist clients with information and advice.
A misunderstanding of judicial decisions leaves
many persons not only exposed to errors and losses
in their own concerns, but also dissatisfied with the
court and disaffected to the government. The
most effectual mode of obviating such dissatisfac-
tion and disaffection, is to furnish the public with
authentic reports of the cases adjudged. The
reasoning of the judges will convince and satisfy
intelligent readers, and shield the administration of
justice against popular prejudices and mistakes.
As the general welfare is the great end of good
government, it is of some importance that the laws
be generally satisfactory in their operation as well
as right in themselves.
The English jurisprudence is the glory of the
nation, and the admiration of the world ; and its
present state of maturity is, in a great degree, to
be ascribed to a series of reports, commenced in
an early reign, and continued with little intermis-
sion, down to the present time. Having the his-
tory of former cases thus set before them, and
knowing that their own judicial opinions, with
212 SKETCHES OF
their reasons therefor, will not only be perused
and examined by their learned cotemporaries, but
descend to their successors, and be submitted to
the perusal and examination of posterity ; the
judges have felt an honourable responsibility, and
in addition to their high sense of duty, have been
animated with an ambition to decide upon princi-
ples that will stand the test of ages. The result
has been such as might be expected. Their deci-
sions have formed a system of common law, which
is a model for other nations, and is, indeed, so
complete, that comparatively few questions of
doubt now arise under it. In proportion to the
relative amount of business, there are, probably,
ten unsettled points of law in this country to one
in that.
This state of things is not impu table to any
improvidence of the provincial legislature, in pass-
ing, or neglecting to pass, legislative acts, or to
any defect of the court in determining cases sub-
mitted to its determination ; but has resulted from
the circumstances of the province; and the only
adequate remedy is to be sought in a course of
judicial decisions, maturely formed, faithfully re-
ported, and uniformly adhered to.
Although the provincial judges are in some
respects in a more difficult situation than those of
Westminster Hall, having a more unexplored field
before them, with fewer land marks to guide their
way ; yet if their decisions, with the reasons on
which they are founded, and the arguments by
which they are supported, were correctly taken
UPPER CANADA. 213
down, and preserved in faithful public reports, they
would soon lay the foundation of a system of pro-
vincial jurisprudence, not less complete than that
of the parent country. The happy consequences
would be a more perfect uniformity of adjudica-
tions in the superior court, both at the terms and
on the circuits, than is possible without reports ; a
conformity of the inferior courts, a prevention of
many otherwise inevitable misapprehensions of the
points decided, and the grounds of decision ; a
more known and certain state of the laws, and a
consequent diminution of the occasions and ex-
pences of law-suits ; for the uncertainty of law is
the most expensive source of litigation.
The beneficial effects would not be confined to
courts, magistrates, and private subjects. Even
legislators would share in them. By an historical
view of the judicial interpretation and application
of existing laws, they would be assisted in deciding
what legislative remedies may be necessary, to
supply any defects, or remove any evils, pointed
out by experience.
The utility of such reports is generally admitted ;
but the practicability of introducing them in the
present state of the province is questioned. To
take correct notes, it is said, of the arguments and
opinions delivered in each important cause, to
digest them into regular method and form, with a
full yet concise state of the case and the pleadings,
and proper references to the authorities cited by
the counsel and the court, and to prepare them for
publication in a satisfactory manner, must be a
214 SKETCHES OF
work of much labour and care, which ought not
to be undertaken without some reasonable expec-
tation of reward ; but that the purchasers of re-
ports in the province would probably be so few,
that the sale of copies would not, for some time,
more than defray the expences of publication,
without leaving any remuneration to the reporter.
In England, reports, in the form of year books,
were introduced, in pursuance of an act of parlia-
ment, at the public expence, which was continued
until the demand for the books of reports became
such as to yield the author an adequate recompense.
Their introduction in that manner has, for centu-
ries, been a subject of gratitude and applause.
Upon the same principle, and with corresponding
success, in several of the United States, where the
English common law is adopted as the basis of the
state laws, liberal compensations are granted to
reporters, out of the public funds, to the general
satisfaction of the people, although there is already
such a demand there for the books, that printers
can afford to pay a handsome price for the copy-
right.
If the revenue of this province be too limited,
or the claims of other objects of public utility too
numerous and urgent, to permit the application of
any portion of it to the encouragement of judicial
reports, their introduction, however impracticable
at present, may be among the improvements of the
province, at some future day, and in a more ad-
vanced stage of population and resources.
UPPER CANADA. 215
SKETCH XXI.
MONEY.
Rates of Gold and Silver Com — Gold, when to be
weighed in Bulk — Copper Coin — Provincial Cur-
rency compared with Sterling and with Dollars —
New York Currency in the Province.
BEFORE we consider the subjects of revenue and
taxes, it will be proper to attend to the currency of
the province.
The value of gold and silver coins here current,
is established by law at the following rates :
Dwt. Gr. £. s. d.
The British Guinea, weighing 56 134
The Portuguese Johannes 18 0 400
Ditto Moidore 6 18 1 10 0
Spanish milled Doubloon, orl
0. , . > 17 0 3 14 6
four Pistole pieces - -J
French Louis d'or, coined >
before 1793 - - - - I * * ' 9 8
French Pistole piece --- 44 0183
American Eagle ----116 2100
British Crown ----- 0 5 6
French do. coined before 1793 056
Spanish Dollar - - - - 050
American do. ----- 050
French piece of four Livres,~j
ten Sols Tournois - - j»
Do. Thirty-six Sols - - - 0 1 8
216 SKETCHES OF
Dwt. Gr. £. s. d.
French piece of Twenty-four Sols Oil
English Shilling - - - - 0 1 1
Spanish Pistareen 0 1 0
And all the higher and lower denominations of the
said gold and silver coins in the same proportion,
two pence and one farthing to be added or de-
ducted for every grain of British, Portuguese, or
American gold ; and two pence and one-fifth of a
penny for every grain of French or Spanish gold
over or under the standard weight.
Upon a payment of more than ,£20. in gold, at
the request of either party, it is to be weighed in
bulk, the coins of Great Britain, Portugal, and
America together, at the rate of eighty-nine shil-
lings for each ounce troy ; and those of France and
Spain together, at the rate of eighty-seven shillings
and eight-pence halfpenny for each ounce ; after
deducting one half of a grain for each piece so
weighed, on account of the loss which may accrue,
by paying it away in detail.
Before 1809, several of the gold coins were
differently valued; but this standard was then
established in conformity to that of the Lower
Province. The currency of Halifax and the Two
Canadas is the s me.
American eagles and half eagles commonly pass
without being weighed ; all other gold coin by
weight.
The value of copper coins is not regulated by
statute ; yet coppers pass two of them for a penny,
without much discrimination; but no person is
UPPER CANADA. 217
obliged by law to receive, at one payment, more
than a shilling in copper money.
From the foregoing rates of the value of coins
established by law, it will be perceived, that one
pound of the lawful money of this province is equal
to four dollars, or eighteen shillings sterling, that is
nine-tenths of a pound sterling.
From a little east of York, the currency of the
state of New York is in general popular use through
all the southern and western parts of this province.
SKETCH XXII.
REVENUE AND TAXES.
Effect of the Engagement of the British Parliament
not to tax the Provinces — British Impost Duties
collected at Quebec — Their Appropriation — Du-
ties collected by Lower Canada on Goods consumed
in Upper Canada — Duties collected in Upper
Canada on Goods imported from the United
States — Principal Officers of Provincial Go-
vernment paid by the Crown — Amount and
Sources of Provincial Revenue — District Taxes
— Statute Labour on Highwai/s.
THE engagement of the British parliament not
to tax the provinces is understood to be prospec-
tive, and not retrospective, renouncing future tax-
ation, but not repealing taxes already laid.
218 SKETCHES OF
There was then in force, an act of parliament
entitled, " an Act to establish a fund towards
further defraying the charges of the administration
of justice and support of the civil government,
within the province of Quebec in America/' laying
certain duties on brandies, rum, spirits, molasses,
and sirups imported into the said province, and
also a duty of one pound and sixteen shillings
sterling on each annual licence, to keep a tavern or
retail wines and spirituous liquors, and appropriat-
ing the proceeds of said impost duties to the
objects expressed in the title of the act.
These duties continue to be collected, the im-
posts at Quebec, and the licence duties in each
province, to his Majesty's use.
After the division of the province of Quebec
into Upper and Lower Canada, the legislature of
the Lower Province laid impost duties, for pro-
vincial uses, in addition to those laid by the
British parliament. As the goods thus dutied
were in part consumed in the Upper Province,
and as the consumer ultimately pays the duty, this
additional impost, although collected by that pro-
vince, operated as a tax upon this. To prevent the
injustice of such operation, an agreement has been
entered into between the two provinces, that the
dutied goods passing from the Lower to the Upper
Province, shall be entered at Coteau-du-Lac, and
the net proceeds of the duties on such a proportion
of the imported goods, shall be paid over to the
latter.
The legislature of Upper Canada, in the 41st
3
UPPER CANADA. 219
year of the present king (1801), enacted that there
should be raised, levied, collected, and paid into
the hands of the receiver general, as treasurer of
the province, to and for the use of his Majesty, and
to and for the uses of the province, the like duties
on all goods imported into the province from the
United States, as are laid, levied, and collected
under and by virtue of any act of the parliament
of Great Britain, or of any provincial act of Lower
Canada, on goods imported from Great Britain, or
parts beyond the seas ; establishing in this province
ports of entry and clearance, providing for the
appointment of collectors, and directing them to
collect and pay over, report and account for all
duties thus levied " under and by virtue of any
act or acts of the parliament of Great Britain, or
under and by virtue of this act/'
The duties thus collected, to the amount of the
sums specified in the above stated act of the British
parliament, being distinguished from the residue,
are considered as belonging to his Majesty, and not
to the province, and are accounted for accordingly,
upon the principle that they are levied under and
by virtue of that act, although their collection is
provided for by a provincial act. But some gen-
tlemen in the province are of a different opinion,
and have contended that they ought to be consi-
dered as levied by provincial authority, and be-
longing to the province.
Since the division of the old province into Upper
and Lower Canada, the chief officers of government
have been paid by the crown. It is understood
that the fund collected for the purpose is not equal
220 SKETCHES OF
to the whole amount of the civil list, a part of
which is consequently supplied from some other
source. Whether the grants and leases of crown
lands in this province, furnish such supply, I know
not, though there is very little doubt that the rents
of the reserved lands of the crown, if applied to that
use, will eventually be sufficient*.
As the principal expenses of the civil list are
thus defrayed by the crown, the expenditures of
the province are moderate, and the provincial
revenue is proportionally small. It arises first
from the duties collected in the Lower Province,
on goods entered at Coteau-du-Lac, on their pas-
sage up to this province, the amount of which,
for the year 1810, according to the annexed state-
ment, was £4848 12 11
2d. The duties on goods imported
^ from the United States, supposed
to amount annually to about - 1500 0 0
3d. Duties on tavern and shop
licences, in addition to those laid
by the British parliament, and on
still licences, the net amount of
all which for 1810, was - - -1304 0 0
4th. Duties on licences to hawkers,
pedlars, and petty chapmen,
amounting in 1810 to - - - 420 0 0
J8072 12 11
* Lower Canada, since 1816, has discharged its own civil list.
The vote of the Imperial Parliament for the Upper Province was
this year, 1820, £10,800.— R. G.
UPPER CANADA.
221
A Statement of Goods entered at Coteau-du-Lac, in
1809 and 1810, with the Duties for the last Year.
In 1809.
In 1810.
n!809.
n!810.
Gallons, Jamaica Spi-
rits or Rum 86,207
Gallons.ForeignBran-
dy and Spirits 8,415
Gallons, Molasses'.. 1,656£
Gallons, Madeira
Wine 3,375
£ t. d.
87,692£ at 6d. 2,192 6 3
Il,748iat6d. 293 14 3
9l3£at5d. 19 0 7|
2,888£ at 9d. 106 8 10£
22,lll£at6d. 552 15 9
50,227 at Id. 209 5 7
95,156 at|d. 198 4 10£
786£
965£
193
267
690|
3,087|
82
1,1591
40,5381
36
18,5381
22 910|
3,6671
1,347
96
622
1,980
16,476£
615
1,736£
69,206i
23,773
15,910|
2,447
1,923
Gallons, of other
Wines than Madeira 16,374
Pounds, Loaf or Lump
Sugar 61,797£
Pounds, Muscovado
Sugar 132,203
Pounds, Coffee 9,877|
Do. Snuff, or Flower
of Tobacco 5,101
5,481 at2d. 45 13 6
3,038 at4d. 50 12 0
22,8 Il£ at 3d. 285 2 10£
1,814 at2d. 15 2 4
4,751 at4d. 79 3 8
45,558 at4d. 759 7 6
944 at2d. 7 17 4
1,355 at6d. 33 17 6
Pounds, Manufactur-
ed Tobacco 23,9 10|
Packs, Playing Cards 1 ,768
Minots* of Salt 9,322^
Pounds, Green Teas,
Souchong 34,047^
Pounds, Bohea Tea... 2,320
Do. Hyson, Do 2,836£
3,911;
2,267:
.£4,848 12 11
A Statement of
Dutied Goods
Imported
from the
United States
in 1809 and
1810.
A Statement of MONEYS collected within the several Districts on
Shop, Innkeepers, and Still Licences, issued between January 5,
1810, and January 5, 1811, after deducting the Inspector's Com-
mission of 10 per cent.
No. of Shop
Licences.
No. of Innkeep-
ers Licences.
Stills— No. of
Gallons.
Net Revenue.
Home District
London
Niagara
Johnstown . . .
Eastern
19
3
31
13
15
19
8
47
43
52
2022
1909
4120
21
40
£ s. d.
147 18 9
117 6 2|
301 18 9
61 14 1|
62 It 0
Newcastle . . .
Western
Midland
St. Joseph's. .
2
22
23
4
19
10
66
1293
2412
4849|
91 12 74
164 9 6
352 17 ll|
3 12 0
Total..
132
264
16.847*
1304 1 11 A
* A minot is a French measure equal to a bushel and an eighth of Win-
chester measure.
222 SKETCHES OF
The number of hawkers, pedlars, and petty chap-
men, licensed in 1810, was seventy-six. The duties
on their Licences, after deducting the inspector's
10 per cent., amounted to <£420.
There is no provincial direct tax. The only tax
of that nature is a district tax for defraying the
expences of the several districts. The court of
sessions in each district, determine the amount of
it, under certain limitations of law, and apportion
it according to an assessment List returned by the
assessors of each township, containing the name of
every person possessed of property, subject to tax-
ation, with a statement of his t taxable articles, viz.
lands cultivated and uncultivated, houses of various
specified descriptions, mills, stores, shops, horses
and cattle. The rateable value of these several
articles is not estimated by the assessors, but fixed
by law ; and a person possessing no such property
is not assessed at all.
The direct taxes of the several districts, for
year, ending March 1, 1811, were as follows :
Eastern District - - J627 8 ,2
Johnstown .------- 4*5 J 8 If
Midland 690 14 8
Newcastle --- 180 2 3$
Home - - - - , 479 11 7|
Niagara. - 1060 4 5
London 279 17 Sf
Western - 364 10 1|
Total*4,133 16 7
* Some additional duties have been laid, and the amount of the
revenue as well as the expenditures of the province, are increased
since the late war.
UPPER CANADA. 223
There is no pauper tax, no capitation, no tithes
or ecclesiastical rates, the clergy of the established
church being provided for by government, from a
fund growing out of the lands reserved for that
purpose, and by the Society for propagating the
Gospel; and those of the dissenting denominations
being supported by voluntary contracts with their
societies.
Instead of highway taxes, every person includ-
ed in the district assessment, is required to perform
not less than three, nor more than twelve days la-
bour annually on the highways, according to the
list of his rateable estate. The apportionment of
this statute labour, I perceive, is a subject of some
popular complaint ; but the amount of it is light,
compared with the value of public roads.
No country in the world, perhaps, is less bur-
dened with taxes. In no other country is the pro-
duce of labour left to the labourer's own use and
benefit, more undiminished by public exactions
or deductions in favour of landlords and other pri-
vate persons ; and it may, with great truth and
propriety be added, that the objects of labour, es-
pecially of agricultural labour, the most useful of
all, are no where more abundant, in proportion to
the quantum of labour expended upon them*.
* Here is the important question. How comes it that Upper
Canada, with all these benefits, and whose settlement began ten
years before that of the country running parallel with it, is now
ten years behind that country in improvement, and its wild land
selling in the market at a third of the price which similar lands
fetch in the United States?— R. G.
224 SKETCHES OF
SKETCH XXIII.
COMMERCE.
Agriculture and Commerce inseparably connected —
The Natural Commerce of the Country — Imports
— Ports of Entry and Clearance — Exports — In-
spection— Course of Trade — Interest — Damages
on Protested Bills — Sterling Bills — No Bank —
Bank Bills — Counterfeiting foreign Bilh — Cir-
culating Specie — Army Bills.
MANY circumstances relating to the commercial
situation of the country, have been incidentally
mentioned under different heads, and need not be
recapitulated.
Although agriculture is the first interest of Upper
Canada, as it employs the greatest number of
hands, and produces most of the articles of prime
necessity, it is inseparably connected with com-
merce, without which the cultivators of the soil
could not be supplied with many of the comforts
and conveniences of life, in exchange for the sur-
plus produce of their farms.
Such an exchange constitutes the natural trade
of the province. It is negociated by the merchants
who receive and market the productions of the
country, and introduce and sell such goods, wares*
and merchandise, as the inhabitants want for their
consumption.
These are principally British manufactures, and
\ \
UPPER CANAtoA. 225
products, imported from Liverpool, Bristol, and
Glasgow, by the way of Montreal. Some of them,
however, in times of ordinary intercourse, have
heretofore come through New York, and other
ports of the United States*. But the statements
in the last Sketch, will not satisfactorily shew
the relative amounts or proportions even of dutied
goods introduced through these respective channels
of importation. For some of the articles brought
from the United States into Lower Canada, are
forwarded from thence to the Upper Province, and
form a part of the entries at Coteau-du-Lac. The
tobacco, for instance, entered there is most of it
of American growth.
The ports of entry and clearance, opened in the
province for communication with the United States,
are Cornwall, Johnstown, Kingston, Newcastle,
York, Niagara, Queenston, Fort Erie, Turkey Point,
Amherstburgh and Sandwich. In such an extend-
ed line of water communication there are places of
landing, where, it is supposed, dutied goods are
sometimes smuggled into the province.
No considerable factories of cloth are establish-
ed; but the farmers by their household manufac-
tures, supply their families with most of their or-
dinary clothing.
The principal exports from the province are
lumber, wheat (which is generally manufactured
* By an act of the British parliament, no goods, wares, or
merchandise, except of the growth, produce, or manufacture of
the United States, can now be imported thence into the province.
Q
226 SKETCHES OF
into flour before it is sent to market), peas, pot
and pearl ashes, furs and peltries, pork, beef,
and butter. Of the two last articles but small
quantities are yet furnished for exportation.
Provision is made by law for the inspection of
pot and pearl ashes, flour, beef, and pork ; but as
these exports pass through Lower Canada, on their
way to market, they are subject to reinspection
there, by the laws of that province.
By a statement in the preceding Sketch of Revenue
and Taxes, it may be seen that there were, in 1810,
132 licensed retailers. At the same time there were
no less than 76 licensed pedlars. These travelling
traders supply the interior of the country with
light, cheap goods. The duty, however, on their
licences is now raised, with a view to suppress
their employment, as less beneficial than that of
regular, stationary traders.
Much of the trade of the country is a species
of indirect barter. The merchant trusts his cus-
tomers with goods, and, at the proper season, re-
ceives their produce in payment, and forwards it
by way of remittance to the importer. In this
manner farmers frequently anticipate their crops,
and if these are cut short, too often remain in debt
to the merchant, whose occasion for punctual pay-
ment compels him, in such cases, to complain of
the difficulty of collecting debts, while interest
is accumulating against him and them. At
present the inhabitants are generally less in-
debted than they were before the war. The pub-
lic expenditures threw into circulation an unusual
UPPER CANADA. 227
quantity of money, or what passed for money, and
thereby facilitated the collection and payment of
debts.
The lawful rate of interest is six per cent. This
regulation of interest, different from that of the
mother country, and the neighbouring state of
New York, the former of which is five per cent,
and the latter seven, depended upon an ordinance
of the old province of Quebec, until 1811, when
a statute was passed by the legislature of Upper
Canada on the subject.
The same act has established the damages upon
protested bills of exchange drawn in this province
on Europe or the West Indies, at ten per cent,
in addition to the interest, besides the cost of not-
ing, protesting, and postage; and four per cent,
on such bills drawn here on any part of North
America, except the West Indies.
Sterling bills, drawn by persons entitled to full
or half pay from government, are negociated and
remitted by merchants; and, in many instances,
prevent the necessity of transmitting money across
the Atlantic.
There is no bank in the province, or indeed in
any of the British provinces in America. Some
efforts were lately made to procure the establish-
ment of one at Kingston*; but the current of pub-
lic opinion was perceived to set so strongly against
the measure, that although supported by advocates
* There is now a bank established at Kingston, and two at
Montreal, which have agents throughout Upper Canada. — R. G.
228 SKETCHES OF
of intelligence and respectability, it was abandoned,
without even presenting the petitions for incorpo-
ration to the legislature*.
Bills of the bank of England are rarely seen here.
Those of the banks in the United States, although
discounted by a few individuals, who have remit-
tances to make to the States, are not in circulation.
Besides the distrust arising from the foreign situation
of those banks, the number of counterfeits among
the bills brought them into discredit. They were,
indeed, counterfeited in Canada with impunity,
there being no law to prohibit or punish the coun-
terfeiting of foreign bills, until 1810, when an act
was passed for that purpose by the legislature of
Upper Canada. It has been followed by a similar
act in the Lower Province.
Most of the circulating specie is gold. Its plenty
or scarcity is affected by the fluctuations of crops
and markets, and the varying state of commercial
intercourse with the United States.
Army bills, as a medium of circulation, grew out
of the war. They were substituted for specie, of
which there was such a scarcity, that many private
individuals issued their own notes, which passed
for some time instead of cash.
* A bill was afterwards passed for an incorporated bank ; but
by some informality did not receive the royal sanction, — R. G..
UPPER CANADA. 229
SKETCH XXIV
MILITIA.
Persons liable to do Militia Duty— Regiments—
Battalions— Companies— Their Officers—Annual
Review— Company Trainings— Temporary Mi-
litia Acts during the War.
THE Militia of the province is composed of the
male inhabitants from sixteen to sixty years of age.
They are formed into regiments and battalions, by
counties; a regiment consisting of not more than
ten, nor less than eight companies ; a batta-
lion of not more than eight, nor less than five com-
panies ; and a company of not more than fifty, nor
less than twenty privates. The field officers of a
regiment are, a colonel, lieutenant-colonel, and
major : those of a battalion are a lieutenant-colonel
and major : the officers of a company are a captain,
lieutenant, and ensign. There is an adjutant-
general for the province, an adjutant for each regi-
ment, and no intermediate grade of officers between
the colonels and the governor, who is commander
in chief, and appoints and commissions all the
officers in his Majesty's name.
The colonels assign the limits of the companies.
Each colonel is required by law to call out his
regiment, to be reviewed and exercised on the
4th of June, his Majesty's birthday; and the se-
veral companies are to be called out by their cap-
tains, not less than twice, nor more than four times
a year, for inspection of arms and instruction in
discipline.
230 SKETCHES OF
Those who are fifty years of age are not obliged
to attend, except at the annual reviews.
The militia are numerous, in proportion to the
whole number of inhabitants. They are not uni-
formed, and but imperfectly armed, although re-
quired by law to own arms, unless excused by
their officers for inability to procure them. In the
late war they were furnished with King's arms.
Their officers are generally older in years and in
office than those of the militia in the States,
where there are more grades of rank, and more ex-
emptions, and where resignations, promotions, and
successions are more frequent.
During the war, militia acts, adapted to the
state of the times, were passed for a limited term,
repealing, by a general clause, all former laws on
the subject. At the close of the war those tempo-
rary acts expired by their own limitation. Of
course the old militia law revived.
In the course of the war, provision was made by
law for allowing pensions to militiamen, disabled
by wounds, and to the widows and orphan children
of such as were killed in battle. The pension list
has since been extended to cases of persons disabled,
and the families of persons deceased, from sickness
contracted by means of actual service in the militia.
A general agent of militia pensions has been pro-
vided for and appointed, A provincial aide-de-camp
to the governor has been added to the organization
of the militia*.
* And at the session of the legislature in 1816, it has been
UPPER CANADA. 231
SKETCH XXV.
RELIGION AND ECCLESIASTIC INSTI-
TUTIONS.
TAe Episcopal Church supported by Government —
Clergy Reserves — Lieutenant- Governor's Autho-
rity to endow Parsonages and Rectories, and
present Incumbents — Number, Stations, and Sup-
port of Episcopal Clergymen — Bishop — Dissenters
protected by Law— Denominations of Dissenters.
THE episcopal form of religion, according to the
establishment of the Church of England, is sup-
ported by the government of this province. The
constitutional act provided for a reservation of
lands equal to one seventh part of all the lands
then granted, and to be granted. These reserves,
altogether distinct and different from those of an-
other seventh, called the crown reserves, were re-
enacted in amendment of the old militia law, that nothing con-
tained therein " shall extend, or be construed to extend to oblige
any person to enrol himself in the militia of the province, unless
such person is a natural born subject of his Majesty, naturalized
by an act of the British parliament, or a subject of his Majesty,
having become such by the cession of Canada, or a person who
has taken the oath of allegiance ; but that, in all cases, such per-
sons as are not liable to be called upon for the defence of the
province in case of invasion, shall be excluded from the rolls of
the militia of the same, any thing in the before-mentioned act
to the contrary notwithstanding."
232 SKETCHES OF
quired to be specified in the patents, and are ap-
propriated exclusively to the maintenance of a
Protestant clergy in the province.
Under instructions from the crown, the lieute-
nant-governor is empowered to erect parsonages
or rectories in the several townships ; to endow
them with any proportion of the lands reserved in
respect of such townships, and to present incum-
bents, subject to the bishop's right of institution.
At present, these reserved lands are leased by
government, as lessees apply for them, for twenty-
one years, at moderate rents, which go into the
funds destined to support the clergy, and will
eventually furnish a very ample support. The
clergy reserves, and crown reserves, are leased on
the same terms. The rent of a lot of 200 acres,
taken in its uncultivated state, has been ten shillings
a year for the first seven years, twenty shillings a
year for the second seven years, and one pound ten
shillings a year for the last seven years of the lease.
Orders, I believe, have lately been issued for doub-
ling the sums to be reserved on lots hereafter
leased. Whether the raising of the rents will pro-
portionably increase the income, or prevent appli-
cations for leases, is a question on which theoretic
reasoners differ, but which will be determined by
the experiment.
There is only one bishop for the two provinces
of Upper and Lower Canada, and he resides at
Quebec.
T< :', • .
In Upper Canada there are six ministers of the
church of England, situated at Cornwall, Kingston,
UPPER CANADA. 233
Ernest Town, and Fredericksburgh*, York, Nia-
gara, and Sandwich. They severally receive £100
per annum from government, and £50 from the So-
ciety for Propagating the Gospel in Foreign Parts.
They solemnize marriages ; but there is no eccle-
siastical court in the province.
Dissenters of all denominations are tolerated
and protected by law. They are not subject to
tithes, or civil disabilities, nor disqualified for
offices, or a seat in the legislature. Their contracts
respecting the support of public worship are legally
enforceable. Ordained ministers of the Scotch,
Lutheran, and Calvinist churches, upon producing
satisfactory credentials in a court of sessions, are
authorized to perform marriages, where one of the
parties to be married is a member of their respective
societies. Any denomination, holding the distin-
guishing Calvinistic doctrines, are included under
the term Calvinist. As such, Presbyterian, Con-
gregational, and Baptist clergymen, exercise the
power of marriage.
The dissenting denominations are, Presbyterians,
Lutherans, Methodists, Congregatiohalists, Mora-
vians, Anabaptists, Roman Catholics, Quakers,
Menonists, and Tunkers. Several of them are
more numerous than the Episcopalians. The most
numerous of all are the Methodists, who are spread
over the whole province. They are followers of
* The rectory of Ernest Town and Fredericksburgh has become
vacant by the return of the Rev. John Langhorn to his native place
in England.
234 SKETCHES OF
Wesley as to doctrines, and acknowledge the epis-
copal authority of the Wesleyan bishops. Next in
number are the Presbyterians, who are of the Dutch
Reformed Church, the Church of Scotland, and
Scotch Seceders, or the Associate Reformed Synod.
The Presbyterians appear to be increasing in num-
bers and respectability.
The Roman Catholics, who are comparatively
few, are attached to the government, and grateful
for the religious freedom which they enjoy, and by
which they are distinguished from their brethren in
Ireland.
Quakers, Merionists, and Tunkers, being con-
scientiously scrupulous of bearing arms, are con-
ditionally exempted from militia duties.
SKETCH XXVI.
PROFESSION AND PRACTICE OF LAW.
Licenses to practise under former Acts — Law Society
established — Term of Apprenticeship required —
Number of Apprentices allowed each Barrister.
IN the early stages of the province, gentlemen
were admitted to the bar by licence from the lieute-
nant-governor, specially provided for by two suc-
cessive acts of the legislature. But in 1797, those
who were then in practice were authorized to form
themselves into a society, by the name of The Law
UPPER CANADA. 235
Society of Upper Canada, and to establish rules
and regulations, under the inspection of the judges ;
and it was enacted, that no other person, except
licensed practitioners from some other British pro-
vince or dominion, shall be permitted to practise
at the bar of any of his Majesty's courts in this
province, unless he shall have been previously en-
tered of, and admitted into, the said society, as a
student of law, and shall have been standing in
their books for five years, and have conformed him-
self to their rules and regulations, and been duly
called and admitted as a barrister.
The society was accordingly organized, and the
act still remains in force. Every barrister is now
allowed to have four apprentices or clerks.
SKETCH XXVII.
PHYSIC AND SURGERY.
Quebec Ordinance requiring a Licence — Provincial
Act, repealing former Laws, and "establishing a
Board of Examiners—Repeal of that Act— New
Licence Law.
ONE of the ordinances of the province of Quebec
prohibited the practice of physic or surgery by any
person not licensed in the manner therein pre-
scribed.
In 1793, an act of the legislature of Upper Ca-
nada, repealing, in general terms, all former laws on
236 SKETCHES Ol?
the subject, established a board for examining and
licensing medical candidates. From the state of
the province it became impossible to form such a
board of examiners, and the act was repealed.
Many physicians and surgeons have gone into
practice without any provincial licence, supposing
there was no prohibition, and not suspecting that
an old ordinance of the former province of Quebec,
which was not executed and had not been published
among the laws of this province, was revived by a
repeal of the provincial act, so as to be in force here.
An act passed in 1815 has established a new
licensing board, to consist of the senior army phy-
sician or surgeon, with one other practitioner, re-
gularly licensed in some of the British dominions.
It subjects to a penalty of £ 100 every person prac-
tising, after the date of the act, as a physician, sur-
geon, or male-midwife, without a licence, excepting,
however, any one who has had a warrant as a
surgeon or surgeon's mate in the army or navy.
'.y>- _
SKETCH XXVIII.
TRADES AND APPRENTICESHIPS.
British Statute not in force here — No Provincial
Act on the Subject.
THE statute of Elizabeth, requiring seven years
apprenticeship before the exercise of a trade, being
local in its application, is not considered to be ap-
UPPER CANADA. 237
plicable to this province ; and no provincial act has
been passed on the subject. Any mechanic, there-
fore, is at liberty to set up his trade, whether he
has served a stated term of apprenticeship or not.
But as the same liberty is common to others, and
customers left to their own choice will employ the
best workmen, he cannot expect employment and
success without skill in his trade ; and that is not
ordinarily acquired without an apprenticeship, or
regular education for the business. In this view
apprenticeships are useful and necessary ; and con-
tracts for them, in the usual form of indentures, are
respected and enforced by law*.
* The above statement of the inapplicability of the English law
of apprenticeship to this province has been controverted by a bar-
rister of great respectability, who did me the favour to examine
these Sketches in manuscript, and who thinks that, though not
executed, that law is in force under the general adoption of the laws
of England, and would be so decided if the question were brought
before the court of King's Bench. I have reconsidered the subject,
but cannot agree with him. It is a settled rule, that penal and re-
straining laws are to receive a strict construction. Such is the cha-
racter of this law. It subjects to a penalty, and is in restraint of
natural right. It is accordingly construed so strictly in West-
minster Hall, that trades invented since the date of the act have
been holden to be free, and not prohibited. It has also been ad-
judged, that the prohibition is confined to market towns and pa-
rishes, and that in extra-parochial places, any person may exercise
a trade. This whole province may be considered to be extra-paro-
chial, there being no parishes in it in the English sense of the term,
subject to tithes, support of paupers, and other charges, and local
restrictions; one of which is, the restriction of trades without ap-
prenticeship. But there having been no decision to this effect, the
opinion here expressed may prove erroneous.
238 SKETCHES OP
SKETCH XXIX.
^
IMPRISONMENT FOR DEBT, INSOL-
VENT LAWS, AND LIABILITY OF
LAND FOR DEBT.
No Capias, but in case of a Debt certain, and above
40s.— Oath required before taking out a Capias—
A poor Debtor to be discharged from Prison, or
supported there by the Creditor — Land of a Debtor
liable to Execution— No Bankrupt Law.
PERSONAL liberty is so highly respected by the
laws of the province, that, in civil actions, the
body is not subject to arrest or imprisonment, ex-
cept in a case of debt certain, and above 40 shil-
lings, where there has been an attempt, or is an
apparent intention to avoid payment. Before a
capias can be sued out as mesne process or execu-
tion, the creditor, his agent, or servant, must make
affidavit that he believes the debtor is about leav-
ing the province, with an intent to defraud his
creditors, or has secreted or conveyed his effects, to
prevent their being taken in execution.
An insolvent debtor, detained in prison on exe-
cution, upon applying to the court, and making
oath that he is not worth five pounds, is entitled to
a discharge of his person, or a dollar a week for his
support, to be paid by the creditor in advance
every Monday, unless the creditor prove, to the
UPPER CANADA. 239
satisfaction of the court, that the debtor has fraudu-
lently secreted or conveyed away his effects.
Where the debt does not exceed £\0 sterling,
and the debtor has been imprisoned a month, if he
makes oath that he is not worth more than the
amount of the debt, and has not fraudulently dis-
posed of any property, his person is discharged ;
but any estate which he then has, or may there-
after acquire, remains liable for the debt.
A debtor's land is liable to be taken and sold on
execution, after a writ of execution against his
goods and chattels is returned unsatisfied ; and
though upon a person's decease his land descends
to his heir or heirs, according to the rules of the
common law, and is not subject to administration,
as assets for the payment of debts ; yet it is ques-
tioned whether the same British statute which
subjects the land of a living debtor in the provinces
to the payment of debts, be not applicable to the
land of a deceased debtor. If this be the true con-
struction of the Jaw, the jurisdiction of the court of
probate, and of executors and administrators, should
be extended to the administration of lands in such
cases.
There is no bankrupt law in the province. In
the general adoption of English laws, those respect-
ing bankrupts were expressly excepted ; and the
provincial legislature have made no provision on
the subject.
In cases of failure and insolvency, traders stand
on the same ground with other debtors,
2
240 SKETCHES OF
SKETCH XXX.
.? *<3ub .
*"
GRADUAL ABOLITION OF SLAVERY,
Importation of Slaves prohibited — The Right of
Masters to their Slaves confirmed— Their Chil-
dren to be free at 25.
THE common law of England does not admit of
slavery. But an act of parliament authorized the
governor of the province of Quebec, to license the
importation of slaves. Under that authority a
few negro slaves were introduced before the divi-
sion of the province. At the second session of the
legislature of Upper Canada, in 1793, the further
importation of them was prohibited ; and voluntary
contracts for personal service were limited to a
term not exceeding nine years. As to slaves
theretofore imported under authorized licences, the
property of their masters was confirmed; but pro-
vision was made, that the children of such slaves,
born after the passing of the act, should be free at
the age of 25 years ; and that their births should
be registered, to furnish evidence of their age. It
was further declared, that if such minors, during
their term of servitude, should have children born,
those children should be entitled to all the rights
and privileges of freemen. Of course they cannot
be holden to service after the age of 21 years.
UPPER CANADA.
The principle of this gradual abolition of slavery,
is similar to that of some of the American States.
The number of slaves in the province is very
small.
SKETCH XXXI.
PRICE OF LAND, AND ENCOURAGE-
MENT TO SETTLERS.
Lots granted to actual Settlers upon paying Office
Fees and performing settling Duties — The Policy
of encouraging Settlements — Labour the Standard
of Value and Means of Wealth, and the Quantum
of Labour proportioned to the Population — Exam-
ple of New York — Lands there four times as
valuable as similar Lands in this Province.
ACCORDING to a fundamental maxim of the
English constitution, all public lands are vested in
the crown ; and the discretionary disposal of them,
unless regulated by some act of parliament, assented
to by the King, is a branch of the royal prerogative.
In the exercise of that discretion, his Majesty
has heretofore thought proper to grant lots of 200
acres of the waste or wild lands of the crown in
this province, to settlers, upon their payment of
certain fees and charges, and performance of cer-
tain settling duties. The charges of surveying, and
fees of office, amount to about 37 dollars on a lot;
and the duties of settlement required, are the clear-
R
242 SKETCHES OF
ing of five acres of the land, the building of a
house, and opening of the road across the front of
the lot, which is a quarter of a mile, all to be per-
formed within a limited time. Upon these easy
conditions, the lieutenant-governor in council,
in his Majesty's name, has granted patents of land.
But an applicant for such a grant, whether an
European or American, has always been required
to satisfy his excellency and the Council, by certifi-
cates from known characters, or other testimonials,
that he is a person likely to be a wholesome inha-
bitant, and intends actually to settle upon the
lands.
Since the late war with the United States, great
efforts have been made to introduce settlers from
the British European dominions, in preference to
emigrants from the States. On such terms lands
are granted to settlers. The object evidently is
not to supply the means of speculation, but to en-
courage actual settlements. The wisdom of this
policy is obvious.
The best writers and reasoners on political eco-
nomy, have laid down as an axiom, that labour is
the standard of value; and that the wealth, the
strength and importance of a nation, are in propor-
tion to its quantum of productive labour; which,
under a government whose laws permit voluntary
employment and free competition in business, and
protect individuals in the enjoyment of the fruits
of their labour, will be proportionate to the number
of labourers. Hence the importance of a numerous
population in any country, and especially in one,
UPPER CANADA. 243
where the objects and materials of labour, particu-
larly lands, are abundant, and consequently cheap.
The neighbouring state of New York furnishes
a fair comparison and example. The northern
and western districts of that state resemble the
adjacent districts of Upper Canada, in respect to
soil, climate, and markets, being separated only by
the river and lakes, four or five hundred miJes.
The states have wisely encouraged emigration and
settlement, and have accordingly received such
accessions from the other States and Europe, in
addition to their own multiplication, that their
census now (1811) contains nearly a million of
inhabitants, more than a third of whom have been
added in the last ten years. Their wealth, and
strength, and resources, and the value of their
lauded property, have progressed with their popu-
lation. Land of similar quality , and corresponding
situations, although once very cheap there, now
bears a price four times as high among them as
among their neighbours in this province.
This comparative view illustrates the wise policy
of encouraging the settlement of the province, by
granting lots, on such liberal terms, to actual settlers
of sober and industrious habits.
Other landholders have no reason to complain.
Every additional labourer adds something to the
general stock.
The lands already cultivated are far from being
carried to a maturity of cultivation, while millions
of acres of fertile soil, still remaining in their natu-
ral state, are waiting for the hand of the cultivator,
R 2
244 SKETCHES OF
to render them productive, and thereby raise their
value, and that of the surrounding mass, and thus
increase the public welfare.
The prosperity of a nation or province is com-
posed of the individual prosperity of its inhabitants ;
and prosperous individuals, according to a well
known principle of human nature, are generally
loyal subjects of the government by which their
persons are protected, and their property is secured.
SKETCH XXXII
STATE OF LEARNING.
No College in the Province — No Free Schools
District Schools — Causes of the former Neglect of
Education—Little Reading—Few Books— Indi-
cations of a favourable Change— Multiplication
of Books — Social Libraries — An increasing Taste
for Reading — A Spirit of Improvement — -Am-
bition for Academical Learning without going
abroad for it.
THERE is no college in Upper Canada; but there
are said to be several townships of land set apart
for the purpose of endowing such an institution,
when the population and circumstances .of the
province shall require it.
No provision is made by law for free schools.
The inhabitants of the several townships are left
UPPER CANADA. 245
to a voluntary support of schools, according to their
own discretion.
An act of the provincial legislature, in 1807,
granted a hundred pounds a year to the teacher of
one school, in each of the eight districts under the
direction of trustees. In some districts the school
thus provided for, is made a free school ; but in
other districts the salary is considered as a public
encouragement to a teacher of literary eminence,
in addition to the compensation received for the
tuition of each scholar.
The act was at first limited to four years, within
which period the limitation was repealed, so that
it is now a perpetual law. From the extent of the
districts, the location of the schools, and other
considerations, the school act has proved not very
satisfactory, and a repeal of it has been repeatedly
attempted. Such dissatisfaction and attempts to
procure a repeal, may have lessened the utility of
these schools. Several of them, however, are
flourishing and highly respectable.
Other seminaries for the education of youth, are
supported by individual exertions, without public
aid.
The first inhabitants, as was stated in the histo-
rical sketch, were generally poor, in consequence
of the revolution. They had also to struggle with
the labours and privations incident to new settle^
ments. As their habitations were sparse, it was
difficult for them to unite in sufficient numbers to
form good schools; and they could neither afford
much expence for instructors, nor allow their
b».'> :
246 SKETCHES OF
chitdfen much time for receiving instruction.
From such inevitable causes, education was neg-
lected among them, until the neglect almost became
habitual. The want of books, at the same time,
relaxed their taste for reading.
A sense of these disadvantages excited desires
for surmounting them, which have at length pro-
duced some corresponding exertion. Books are
procured in considerable numbers. In addition to
those with which particular persons and families
are supplied, social libraries are introduced in
v arious places ; and subscribers at a small ex pence
thus enjoy the benefit of many more volumes
than they could individually afford to purchase.
A spirit of improvement is evidently spreading.
The value of education, as well as the want of it,
is felt. The practicability of obtaining it is con-
sidered. Gentlemen of competent means appear
to be sensible of the importance of giving their
children academical learning, and ambitious to do
it without sending them abroad for the purpose.
A mong other indications of the progress of literary
ambition, I cannot forbear referring to the academy
lately erected in Ernest Town, by the subscriptions
of public spirited inhabitants of that and the neigh-
bouring townships, who appear to be convinced
that the cultivation of liberal arts and sciences is
naturally connected with an improvement of man-
ners and morals, and a general melioration of the
state of society*.
* Such was the prospect when the war commenced, but it is
changed. The academy was converted into a barrack ; and the
UPPER CANADA. 247
SKETCH XXXIII.
CHARACTER, MANNERS, AND CUS-
TOMS OF THE INHABITANTS.
Miyed National Character — Anglo-Americans-^-
People not agitated by Politics — Prejudices ex-
cited by the late War — Rural Manners — Popular
Diversions — Dancing —Athletic Sports Social
Scenes— Little Progress of Luxury —Carriages —
Sleiah ing Parties — Trave lling Accommodations
— Fishing — Dress — Manner of Living and Style
of Building compared with those of the United
States— Smoking— - Use of Ardent Spirits—Pugi-
lism— Chereverreeing — Holydays — Festivals —
Observance of the Sabbath — Public Worship.
IF the people of Upper Canada have any predo-
minant national character, it is the Anglo-Ameri-
can. Among the first settlers there were natives
of Great Britain and Ireland, and a few of some
other European countries; but the mass of them
were Americans, born in New England, New
York, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania. They retain
academical institution has not been revived. The students resort-
ed to other places of education, many of them out of the province.
The building is now occupied as a house of public worship, and
a common school. It is to be hoped, however, that the taste
for literary improvement may be revived, and this seminary be
re-established.
248 SKETCHES OF
a strong attachment to their sovereign, who re-
munerated them for their revolutionary losses, made
them liberal grants of land to settle on, with farm-
ing tools, building materials and provisions, to faci-
litate their settlement, and is still granting lands to
their children as fast as they become of age.
Those who have since joined the province are of
a similar national mixture. A considerable number
of emigrants from Scotland, settled together in the
eastern districts, and others have, at a later period,
been planted in the western district, under the aus-
pices of Lord Selkirk. One township on Yonge
Street has been chiefly taken up by Germans. Bri-
tish, Irish, and a few French gentlemen of business
have located themselves in various situations.
Some inhabitants have removed from Lower Canada,
Nova Scotia, and New Brunswick. Still greater
numbers have come from the United States, because
of their adjacency, and in consequence of the ori-
ginal American settlers, who left behind them in the
States, their fathers, their brothers, and other rela-
tives, neighbours, and friends, from whom they had
been separated by the revolution. As their revo-
lutionary passions mutually subsided, the natural
feelings of consanguinity, affinity, and personal
friendship revived. They were still interesting ob-
jects to each other. Friendly inquiries, corres-
pondencies, exchanges of visits, and renewals of
attachment ensued. The tide of emigration natu-
rally flows from old to new settlements. These
causes, combined with the fertility of the Canadian
soil, tue relative cheapness of land and lightness of
UPPER CANADA. 249
public burdens, have induced many Americans,
from year to year, to move into the province. Here
they have generally acquired farms and engaged in
business, not as a distinct people, like the French
population fin Lower Canada, but blended and
intermixed with the former inhabitants.
This intermixture produces no effervescence,
personal or political. Politics, indeed, are scarcely
named or known among them. They have very
little agency in the affairs of government, except
that the freeholders once in four years elect their
representatives. The people are not agitated by
parties, as they are in the United States, where all
branches of government depend, directly or indi-
rectly, upon frequent popular elections.
They are here distinguished rather by their occu-
pations, than by their political connexions, or the
places of their birth. A due proportion of them
are in professional, mercantile, and mechanic em-
ployments ; but the most numerous class are en-
gaged in agriculture, and have the appropriate views,
manners, and sentiments of agriculturists*.
* The late war produced a very natural jealousy of persons
born in the United States, or having connexions there. A degree
of it still exists, attended in some places with mutual alienation,
and even exasperation pf feelings. The current of emigration,
which used to flow from the neighbouring states into this province,
seems to be turned towards the south western territories of the
United States. Since the peace, notwithstanding the multitudes
who have crossed the line for speculation and temporary employ-
ment, comparatively few have removed into Canada for permanent
settlement. None are now admitted to the oath required, as a con-
SKETCHES OlF
There is here, as well as every where else, a cer-
tain portion of idle and vicious persons, who hang
loose upon society, and, instead of adding, by their
labour, to the general sum of wealth and prosperi-
ty, diminish it by their consumption and waste.
Their number, however, is not peculiar. The
main body of the inhabitants may be characterised
as industrious.
Their diversions are similar to those of the in-
terior of New England. Dancing is a favourite
amusement of the youth. Athletic sports are com-
mon. Family visits and tea parties are the most
frequent scenes of sociability.
The country is too young for regular theatric en-
tertainments, and those delicacies and refinements
of luxury, which are the usual attendants of wealth.
Dissipation, with her fascinating train of expences
and vices, has made but little progress on the shores
of the lakes.
There are no splendid equipages, and few common
carnages ; but the face of the country being level,
they will doubtless be multiplied, as the roads be-
come well fitted for wheels.
In winter great use is made of sleighs ; and
sleighing parties are fashionable ; but taverns and
provisions for travellers are, in many parts of the
country, quite indifferent. The improvement of
travelling accommodations has been retarded by
dition of holding lands, without the governor's licence, which js
granted upon satisfactory testimonials of good character and inten-
tion ef residence.
UPPER CANADA. 251
the preference given to passages by water, during
the summer months. Yet travel by land increases,
and the roads are advancing towards a more perfect
state, by the annual application of statute labour,
and the aids granted, from time to time, by the le-
gislature out of the provincial funds.
So many Townships are situated upon waters
filled with fish, that fishing is a common amuse-
ment, easily connected with occasional supplies of
provisions.
Fashions of dress and modes of living are com-
mon to the inhabitants ot the province and their
ne;gh hours in the States. The style of building,
howevtr, on the Canadian side of the line is less
elegant; and, in general, there are less ambition,
enterprise, and exertion. This difference is the na-
tural consequence of the different circumstances,
under which the original settlements were com*
menced.
The habit of smoking is very common among
all classes of people throughout the province. By
the statements of dutiable imports, inserted in the
sketch of revenue and taxes, it appears that the
duty was paid upon almost 100,000 pounds of
manufactured tobacco, imported in the year 1610,
besides all that was smuggled in, all that was pro.
duced in the province, and all the cigars, which,
not being subject to the duty, are not entered in
those statements.
In new countries people generally make -tot*
free use of ardent spirits, for their health or their
morals. To this fault the early settlers here were
252 SKETCHES OP
peculiarly exposed, from the manner of life they
had followed several years in the army, their want
of cider, that common drink to which they had
been accustomed before the revolution, and the
facility with which distilled liquors could be pro-
cured as a substitute. With a decrease of these
causes, the pernicious effects are decreasing. In-
stances of occasional excess and habitual intem-
perance are becoming less frequent. The rising
generation, it is to be hoped, will complete the re-
formation thus begun.
Another bad custom, once considerably preva-
lent in some parts of the province, appears to be
declining. I mean the vulgar practice of pugilism.
Wherever this prevails, it marks a low stage of
civilization. It is indeed a relic of the savage state,
in which the avenging of private wrongs, by per-
sonal violence, . under the immediate impulse of
excited passions, is a ruling principle. Whereas
the object of civil society and government is to
protect the weak against the strong, and the peace-
able against the quarrelsome, and to establish rea-
son arid law, under the administration of disinte-
rested judges, as substitutes for personal vengeance
inflicted by every man, judging, or rather feeling,
in his own cause. Upon this ground assaults and
batteries are condemned by law. The practice of
personal combats, therefore, is a departure from
the first principle of civilization ; and, so far as it
obtains, is a return to the barbarous, savage state
of life.
It is also a direct violation of the known law of
V UPPER CANADA. 253
the land. Men of honour ought to view it in this
light, and reflect well upon the tendency of coun-
tenancing it by example or indulgence. If one
plain law is violated with impunity, or with only
nominal or very slight punishment, the respect
due to laws in general is thereby diminished, and
the arm of government proportionally weakened.
This tendency to insubordination and contempt of
authority is strengthened, when the violation of
law is rendered fashionable and popular, either by
the passions of our nature, or the contagion of
influential examples.
Men of conscience should contemplate the sub-
ject in a still more serious light. The practice
under consideration is a transgression of the law of
God. Its indulgence promotes other sins. It
increases the venom of hatred, resentment, and all
the angry passions, from which the parties probably
suffer more than from the pain occasioned by blows
and wounds. It sometimes ends in homicide, and
frequently produces loss of labour and health, and
plants the seeds of lameness, disability, and disease.
It involves families and friends in quarrels, and
spreads animosities through whole neighbourhoods
and townships. It degrades a national or provincial
character, injures public morals and manners, vul-
garizes public taste, and checks the progress of
social refinement.
Popular customs, deriving their force from
habit, are not easily changed; especially those
which are prompted by the strong passions of
human nature. Such is that we are speaking of.
254 SKETCHES OF
which is stimulated by anger and revenge, and not
less by pride; for vulgar fashion has made it an
object of a false kind of heroism. It is not, how-
ever, too inveterate to be restrained by public sen-
timent, which may always be directed by the
enlightened part of a community.
The decline of so degrading a practice indicates
a state of improvement. Its extinction would be
a subject of additional congratulation.
I have observed no essential peculiarity in the
funerals or weddings of this country; but there is
a singular custom of chereverreeing, as it is called,
a newly married couple, where the match is
thought to be unequal or unseasonable ; as, be-
tween an old man and a young girl, or within a
short period after the death of a former husband or
wife. Sometimes it is in consequence of the
offence so frequently caused by a neglect of invi-
tation to the wedding. It is a kind of riotous
frolic derived from the French of Lower Canada.
Young men, disguised in masks, assemble in tbe
evening before the house of the bride and bride-
groom, bearing some significant emblem, accom-
panied with horns, bells, pans, and other instru-
ments, with which they perform a discordant
serenade. It is often in vain for the parties, who
are the objects of such a visit, to resist or resent
it. Their wisest course is to treat it with good
humour, as a joke unworthy of serious notice.
This custom being discountenanced by people
of consideration, as rude and injurious, soems to
be jjoing into disrepute and disuse. It has lately
tJPt»ER CANADA.
been a Subject of prosecution ; and, as practised in
many instances, is undoubtedly indictable as a
riot. In Lower Canada, it is said to have been
suppressed by the interposition of the police.
Public days are not so frequent hdre as they are
in some countries.
The fourth of June, being the anniversary of his
Majesty's birth, is noticed throughout the pro-
vince, as a national holyday ; but not with such
orations, processions, and parade, as are displayed
in the United States, on the fourth of July.
Freemasons attend their festivals as in other
places.
The Christmas holydays are observed in the
usual manner.
The churches and dissenting meeting houses are
generally plain. The worshipping assemblies ap-
pear grave and devout, except that in some of
them it is customary for certain persons to go out
and come in frequently in time of service, to the
disturbance of others, and the interruption of that
silence and solemnity which are enjoined by po-
liteness, no less than a sense of religion. This
indecorous practice prevails among several diffe-
rent denominations ; but it is local in its preva-
lence, and scarcely deserves to be mentioned in a
description of provincial customs*.
* The writer of the Sketches is not singular in his observation
on this subject. When at Kingston I attended worship twice in
the Episcopal church. The interruption to the service was so
great by people, well dressed people, coming late to church, and
256 SKETCHES OF UPPER CANADA.
The observance of the sabbath, instituted by
religion, and required by law, is most strict in
those places, where public worship is regularly
maintained. Such places are not so numerous as
might be wished, although their number is in-
creasing. In a country recently settled, and thinly
peopled ; where various creeds are professed, and
religious freedom is enjoyed, a regular maintenance
of the public worship of God is a matter of diffi-
culty; but its salutary influence on civil society,
renders it an important object ; and, when viewed
in the light of that eternal state of retributions, to
which this life is only a probationary introduction,
it rises in importance, beyond the reach of de-
scription. In this point of view, every believer of
the Christian system, whether connected or not by
national ties, must wish success to the means of
propagating the gospel of salvation, in any land
where human beings dwell.
bustling regardlessly to their pews, that I, before reading the
above, put the practice on record as worthy of censure.
A custom similar to chereverreeing is sometimes resorted to in
England, to disgrace infamous persons whom the law cannot reach.
I remember of a drunkard in Wiltshire, who treated his wife
shamefully and harboured a bad woman in the same house,
being beset with a mob armed with bells, horns, &c.— R. G.
APPENDIX
TO
SKETCHES.
AFTER the foregoing Sketches were finished, the
Provincial Legislature, at their Session in 1816,
enacted several laws, which will be summarily
sketched in this Appendix.
Two new Districts were formed ; the District of
Gore, at the head of Lake Ontario, taken from the
Niagara and Home Districts; and the District of
Ottawa, composed of the northern part of the
Eastern District. The principal Settlements in
this new District, are situated on or near the river
Ottawa. This north-easterly Section of the Pro-
vince has hitherto attracted little attention, but is
rising in importance. Many Settlers, who have
recently emigrated from the British European
dominions, under the auspices of government, and
a considerable number of the officers and soldiers
of the regiments lately disbanded, are located or
to be located there, and a new route of inland
navigation, between Montreal and Kingston, is to
be opened in that direction. The country has
been explored, and the reports of it are favourable.
It is expected to pass up the Ottawa to the mouth
of the Rideau, and up that river near to its head
waters, thence by a short portage to Kingston Mill
river, and down that stream to Kingston. The
distance will be greater than down the St. Lawrence*
258 APPENDIX TO SKETCHES
But the difficult and dangerous rapids will be
avoided; and, in the event of another war, this
interior communication between the two Provinces,
will be more safe than the old one along the frontier.
The two new Districts are organized, and their
respective officers appointed and sworn into office.
An act was passed for the establishment and
encouragement of common schools. It provides
for a board of education, to be appointed by the
Governor in Council, in each District, and autho-
rizes the inhabitants of any town, township, village
or place, to associate by subscription for a school,
and to choose three trustees of such school, who
have power to appoint a teacher, designate the
school books to be used, and direct the course of
education, subject to the superintendance of the
District Board of Education. These trustees are
annually to certify the number of scholars in-
structed in their respective schools, and report the
state of the schools to the District Board, who are
to make a similar report to the Governor, to be laid
before the Legislature. The act grants 6,000
pounds (24,000 dollars) a year, from the provincial
fund, and apportions it to the ten Districts. The
District Boards are to apportion it among the
schools in their several Districts, according to the
number of their scholars, with these limitations,
that none be given to a school of less than 20
scholars, and no school have less than a hundred
dollars ; and the money is to be paid to the teachers
upon their producing certificates of qualification
and good conduct from their trustees.
OF UPPER CANADA. 259
This law, however incomplete as a system, in-
dicates a favourable progress of public sentiment on
the subject of education.
Commercial intercourse between the province
and the states not having been regulated by treaty,
an -ict was passed for that purpose. The substance
of it will appear from the following Order in
Council:
ORDER
OF THE
LIEUTENANT-GOVERNOR, IN COUNCIL.
Province of ) At a Council for the affairs of the
Upper Canada.) Province, held at York, in the said
Province, on the 18th day of April, in the 56th
year of his Majesty's reign, and in the year of our
Lord 1816,
PRESENT,
HIS EXCELLENCY THE LIEUTENANT-GOVERNOR.
WHEREAS, by an Act made and passed in the last
Session of the Provincial Parliament of Upper
Canada, entitled " An Act for making temporary
provision for the regulation of trade between this
Province and the United States of America, by
land or inland navigation ;" it is, among other
things, enacted, that for and during the continu-
ance of the said Act, it shall and may be lawful for
the Governor, Lieutenant-Governor, or person ad-
ministering the government for the time being,
with the advice and consent of his Majesty's exe-
cutive Council, by order or orders, to be from time
s 2
260 APPENDIX TO SKETCHES
to time issued and published, to suspend the ope-
ration of the whole, or part, of any Acts of the Le-
gislature of this Province, relative to trade and in-
tercourse, by land or inland navigation, and to give
directions and make regulations with respect to im-
portations, &c. for carrying on trade by land or
inland navigation, between the people and territo-
ries of his Majesty in this province, and the people
and territories of the United States of America, any
law, statute, custom, or usage to the contrary not-
withstanding; his Excellency the Lieutenant-Go-
vernor, by and with the advice and consent of the
said executive Council, doth hereby order, that the
operation of all Acts passed by the Legislature of
this Province, relating to the trade and commerce
between the United States and this Province, by
land or inland navigation, inasmuch as they regu-
late the duties to be received on goods, wares, and
merchandise, imported into this Province, or ad-
mit the ships, boats, and vessels, used by the sub-
jects of the said United States, into the ports and
harbours of this Province, free of tonnage duty, to
be suspended, and the operation of the said Acts
insomuch is hereby suspended.
And his Excellency the Lieutenant-Governor,
with the advice and consent of the said executive
Council, doth hereby order and direct, that goods,
wares, and manufactures, of the growth or produce
of the said United States of America, imported
into this Province, by land or inland navigation,
shall respectively be liable to the payment of the
duties declared in the schedule hereunto annexed.
OF UPPER CANADA.
261
And it is also further ordered, that no furs of any
description be exported from this Province to the
United States, under penalty of forfeiture of three
times the value of any furs so exported ; one half
to the use of his Majesty, and one half to the in-
former, to be recovered of the person exporting
the same, by bill, plaint, or information, before
any court or competent jurisdiction.
JOHN SMALL,
Clerk of the Executive Council.
SCHEDULE OF DUTIES to be received on Articles
of Manufacture, being of the Growth and Pro-
duce of the United States of America, under the
Order in Council, of the ISth of April, 1816.
Ad va-
lorem
per cent
£
s.
d.
Anchors . ! . . . . . *
22
0
0
0
Brass, iron, or steel locks,
hinges, hoes, anvils and
vices
22
0
0
0
Beer, ale, or porter, in casks,
per gallon . . . . ' ^
Do. in bottles, do. . . .
Books, blank, &c. . . , "j
Broaches . «...
0
0
3,5
36
0
0
0
0
0
1
0
0
6
0
0
o
Cables and tarred cordage,
per lib
0
0
0
n
Carriages or parts of car-
riages
35
0
0
0
Cards, playing, per pack
Wool and Cotton, per dozen
Candles of tallow, per lib.
0
0
0
1
5
0
6
3
2|
262
APPENDIX TO SKETCHES
Ad va-
lorem
per cent.
£ s. d.
Candles, Spermaceti or wax
Canes, walking sticks, and
Whips . . :iv U>< •
3.5
0 0 71
000
Cotton goods .... jrn.
Cabinet wares, chairs, and
manufactures of wood
Cordage tarred, per lib.
unt srred, do. . „'.
Cotton wool, do. \. ".. ,
Clothing, ready made . * .^
Fish dried, per quintal . _,
Mackerel, per barrel ,vU .
Salmon, do. .....
25
35
35
000
000
0 0 3f
003
002
000
050
060
0 10 0
All other pickled fish, do.
Furs of all kinds, undressed
Glass, window, not above 8
by 10, per 100 square feet
Do. do. 10 by 12 . .
Do. do. above 10 by 12
All other manufactures thereof
Glauber salts, per cwt. . .
Glue, per lib. . . •'*< V* Y
free
30
050
000
0 12 6
0 13 9
0 16 3
000
1 0 0
005
Gunpowder . » f .
00 4
Hairpowder .....
Hemp per cwt . . .
004
076
Indigo, per lib
Iron hoop, and slit, per cwt
sheet, do. .
Lead and musket ball . .
All other manufactures in
which lead is the chief
article
22
22
009
076
076
000
000
Looking glasses ....
Malt, per bushel ....
Nails, per Jib. . . . 1"^
Paper of all descriptions v •-
40
35
000
0 1 0
0 0 2|
000
OF UPPER CANADA.
263
>. •
Ad va-
4
lorem
percent.
£.
s.
d.
Packthread and twine, per
cwt.
2
0
0
Pasteboard, parchment, and
vellum . . . i*'«i'"T
35
0
0
0
Pictures and prints . ^il'iVn
35
0
0
0
Salt, per bushel, of 39lb. jjfctf
0
0
1
0
Starch, per lib
0
0
0
3f
Steel, per cwt. ,, . . .
0
0
10
0
Spirits, distilled from grain,
First proof, per gallon .
0
0
9
If
Second ditto ditto
0
0
2
3
Third ditto ditto
0
0
2
5
Fourth ditto ditto
0
0
2
7
Fifth ditto ditto
0
0
3
0
Sixth ditto ditto
0
0
3
9
Spirits, from molasses, do. .
0
0
3
9
Men's and women's shoes
of all descriptions, made
of leather, per pair . .
0
0
1
S
Children's do. do. . . •
Q
0
0
9
0
0
0
2
0
0
0
7*
Tobacco, unmanufactured,
• z
ditto
0
0
0
4
, manufactured, do.
0
0
0
7
Tallow ~
free
0
0
0
Types for printing . . $" y
20
0
0
0
Wearing apparel, and per-
sonal baggage . . .
free
0
0
0
Wood, manufactured i3t
26
0
0
0
All other manufactures and
goods of the growth and
produce of the United
States of America, not
otherwise enumerated .
30
0
0
0
Except wheat, barley, rye,
264
APPENDIX TO SKETCHES
Ad va-
lorem
per cent.
£. s. d.
oats, pease, beans, pot
and pearl ashes, staves,
heading, oak and pine
timber, and other lum-
ber ; beef, pork, and live
cattle, cheese, butter,
and all other provisions,
which may be admitted
free.
12 per cent, upon the above
duties to be paid on
such articles, as are im-
ported in foreign vessels
Every ship's boat, or ves-
sel, exceeding five tons
burden, belonging to the
subjects of the United
States of America, enter-
ing any port or harbour
within this province, to
pay a duty, per ton, of
0
0 12 6
JOHN SMALL,
Clerk of the Executive Council,
The tonnage duty laid by this order, although
intended to correspond with that of the United
States upon British vessels, was found to be
higher. Its effects were to exclude the American
packets and small vessels, or to cause them to be
covered with names of British owners, by real or
fictitious sales; and at the same time to turn the
forwarding business from ports on the British side
of the lakes and rivers to those on the other side.
OF UPPER CANADA.-$5& 265
The duty was soon reduced by the following
ORDER
OF THE
LIEUTENANT-GOVERNOR, IN COUNCIL.
Province of ~\ At a Council for the affairs of the
Upper Canada.) Province, held at York in the said
Province, on the 22d day of May, in the ,56th
year of his Majesty's reign, and in the year of our
Lord 1816,
PRESENT,
HIS EXCELLENCY THE LIEUTENANT-GOVERNOR.
WHEREAS it has been represented that the
tonnage duty of 12s. 6d. per ton, imposed on all
vessels exceeding five tons, belonging to the
subjects of the United States of America, entering
any port or harbour in this province, is higher than
is imposed in the ports of the United States, on the
tonnage of vessels belonging to his Majesty's sub-
jects ; it is ordered that so much of the Order in
Council of the 18th of April, 1816, as imposes a
tonnage duty on vessels belonging to the subjects
of the United States, be cancelled, and that the
following tonnage duty be imposed in lieu thereof.
On all vessels above five tons to fifty tons, the
tonnage duty to be three-pence halfpenny per ton.
From fifty to a hundred tons, five shillings, or
one dollar per ton. On all vessels above a hun-
dred tons, twelve shillings and sixpence per ton.
JOHN SMALL, Clerk of the Executive
Council.
266 APPENDIX TO SKETCHES
The reasons here alleged for annulling the former
rates of tonnage duty, and substituting these in
conformity to the American standard, manifests a
disposition for friendly intercourse ; a disposition
which it is to be hoped will be obviated on both
sides as well by the governments as their respective
subjects. A war of legislation, although not so
destructive as a war of arms, would occasion se-
rious inconveniences. On the other hand a free
commercial intercourse, on liberal terms, is not
only pleasant, but mutually beneficial.
Instances of national civility have been wit-
nessed with much satisfaction. Of that character
was the act passed by Congress, to exempt from
impost duty, Governor Gore's carriage, which
was landed at New York, on its way to Upper
Canada. Such civilities have a conciliatory ten-
dency, and are far more gratifying to a benevolent
mind than acts of retaliation or reciprocal irritation.
At the session of the Provincial parliament in
1816, the annual labour required by law to be ex-
pended upon roads was extended, and some other
alterations made in the statute. The important
object of improving the public roads continues to
occupy the attention of the legislature.
In addition to the statute labour annually
required of the inhabitants, liberal grants have,
from time to time, been made from the provincial
funds, and applied under the direction of road com-
missioners, appointed for that purpose in the several
districts.
The provincial revenue has increased to such a
OF UPPER CANADA. 267
degree as to enable the legislature at their session
this year (1816) to make liberal grants. The view
of this subject, contained in a preceding Sketch, as
taken from the statements of the year 1810, gives
no adequate idea of its present state. An authen-
tic abstract of the amount of the several sources of
revenue for the last year could not be obtained in
season to be inserted in this appendix.
At the same session, the jurisdiction of the
courts of requests was enlarged to five pounds, in
cases of liquidated debts ; but their process was
declared to be confined within the limits of their
respective justiciary divisions, instead of extending
through the whole district.
Provision was also made for regulating the
police of the town of Kingston. This town is now
progressing rapidly in population and buildings, as
well as business. From 1811 to 1816, the number
of dwelling houses only increased from 130 to
300; but it is estimated that a hundred more will
have been erected at the close of this year. A re-
gular market is established ; though the country
immediately around is not yet cultivated enough
to furnish sufficient supplies of vegetables and
other provisions. Improvements in many respects
are taking place throughout the town ; but further
regulations had become necessary, and are provided
for by the act. These regulations respect the re-
pairing, paving, and cleaning of the streets, remov-
ing nuisances, regulating slaughter-houses, restrain-
ing cattle, providing fire engines and buckets, and
forming companies of enginemen, and promoting in
268 APPENDIX TO SKETCHES, &C.
general the health, comfort, and security of the in-
habitants. For these valuable objects, the magis-
trates are authorized to lay a town tax of a limited
amount.
Here closes a very fair and impartial account of Upper Canada,
up to the year 1817. A destructive war seems to have had little
effect in repressing the prosperity of the Province. Kingston con-
tinues to increase rapidly : Queenston " is in a flourishing state,"
&c.
In 1817 great changes took place; partly from external circum-
stances, which affected the world at large ; partly from the inter-
nal policy of the executive government, or rather its impolitic
haste, in running counter to established law and confirmed good
practice.
The change alluded to will little appear from the perusal of the
following Reports ; for the world does not contain a more con-
tented people than those of Upper Canada : indeed a cow in clo-
ver takes little heed of the scythe which does not scratch its hoof;
but if the clover is yet made into good hay, the cow may have no
reason to complain of a temporary stint. — R. G.
Note A., omitted, page 116. — I visited Apanee river, for the express purpose
of observing the phenomenon of the tide. Having not then heard it as-
cribed to the lake winds, I conceived it to be caused by an eddy in the lake,
originating from the discharge of the great rivers Niagara and Genesee
into its opposite side. At Queenston lower wharf there is a constant ebb-
ing and flowing of one foot in a minute. At the whirlpool there is a tide of
three feet every four or five minutes on the western side of the pool. I
mention these circumstances to direct attention to a pleasing and innocent
study of nature; not in contradiction to the opinion given in the text. Did
the winds cause the tide, then such a tide should be observable all round
the lake ; but I never heard of any on its southern or western shores. A
person residing in the neighbourhood, told me that in general the tide of
Apanee took about 50 minutes to flow and 100 to ebb ; and that the rise
varied from 14 to 17 inches.— K. G.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS
UPPER CANADA,
IN REPLY TO
T a
QUERIES,
1817.
•
QUERIES.
1st. Name, Situation, and Extent of your Town-
ship ?
2d. DATE OF THE FIRST SETTLEMENT OF YOUR
TOWNSHIP, NUMBER OF PEOPLE AND INHA-
BITED HOUSES?
3d. NUMBER OF CHURCHES OR MEETING
HOUSES; NUMBER OF PROFESSIONAL PREACH-
ERS, AND OF WHAT SECTS ?
4th. NUMBER OP MEDICAL PRACTITIONERS?
,5th. NUMBER OF SCHOOLS, AND THE FEES PER
QUARTER ? '
6th. NUMBER OF STORES?
7th. NUMBER OF TAVERNS ?
8th. NUMBER OF MILLS, AND OF WHAT DESCRIP-
TION, WITH THE RATE OF grinding, SAW-
ING AND CARDING WOOL ?
9th. THE GENERAL CHARACTER OF THE SOIL
AND SURFACE ?
10th. THE KINDS OF TIMBER PRODUCED, NAM-
ING THEM IN ORDER, AS THEY MOST ABOUND ?
llth. WHAT MINERALS, IF ANY, HAVE BEEN
DISCOVERED OR INDICATED ; COAL, LIME-
STONE, IRON, STONE, PLAISTER OF PARTS, SALT
ROCK, SALT OR OTHER REMARKABLE SPRINGS?
12th. BUILDING STONES, IF ANY, OF WHAT
QUALITY, AND HOW MUCH PER TOISE THEY
CAN BE OBTAINED FOR AT THE QUARRY?
13th. IF BRICKS HAVE BEEN MADE, AND THEIR
COST PER THOUSAND ?
14th. IF LIME IS BURNED, AND THE PRICE PER
BUSHEL, AT THE KILN ?
15th. WAGES OF BLACKSMITHS, MASCTNS, AND
CARPENTERS; AND THE RATE OF THEIR
PIECE-WORK RESPECTIVELY?
NOTES.
;
1st.
The queries are exhibited on the left hand pages,
that they may be more readily referred to from the
replies.
2d.
As there is a correct map of the Province at-
tached to this volume, which shews at a glance the
SITUATION AND EXTENT of each township, the
replies to Query the 1st. have been omitted.
3d.
The word STORE is synonymous with shop in
Upper Canada, and invariably used for this.
4th.
The RATE OF GRINDING, being fixed by statute
at ONE-TWELFTH of the produce ground, replies
to that query are omitted.
5th.
BRICKS are smaller in Canada than in England.
They are an inch shorter, and otherwise proportion-
ally less.
6th.
In all cases, labourers have their board and lodg-
ing allowed to them, besides the money quoted in the
replies: answers, therefore, to the part of query 17,
respecting this, have been omitted.
272 QUERIES.
16th. WAGES OF COMMON LABOURERS PER AN-
NUM, PER WINTER MONTH, PER SUMMER
MONTH, PER DAY IN HARVEST ; ALSO, WAGES
OF WOMEN SERVANTS PER WEEK, FOR HOUSE-
WORK, AND FOR SPINNING ?
17th. PRICE OF MOWING GRASS FOR HAY ;
PRICE OF REAPING AND CRADLING WHEAT ;
saying in each case if board and lodging is in-
cluded ?
18th. COST OF CLEARING AND FENCING A GIVEN
QUANTITY OF WOOD LAND ; SAY FIVE ACRES,
BY CONTRACT ?
19th. PRESENT PRICE OF A GOOD WORK HORSE
FOUR YEARS OLD ; ALSO, A GOOD COW, OX,
SHEEP, OF THE SAME AGE ?
20th. AVERAGE QUANTITY OF WOOL YIELDED
BY SHEEP ; AND WHAT PRICE THE WOOL
NOW BRINGS PER POUND ?
21st. ORDINARY TIME OF TURNING OUT BEASTS
TO PASTURE, AND OF TAKING THEM HOME
INTO THE YARD OR STABLE ?
22d. ORDINARY ENDURANCE OF THE SLEIGH-
ING SEASON, AND OF COMMENCING PLOUGH-
ING IN SPRING ?
23d. ORDINARY SEASON OF SOWING AND REAP-
ING WHEAT ?
24th. QUANTITY OF WHEAT REQUIRED TO SOW
AN ACRE, AND HOW MANY BUSHELS PER
ACRE ARE CONSIDERED AN AVERAGE CROP ?
25th. QUALITY OF PASTURE: 1st. AS IT RE-
SPECTS FEEDING, AND WHAT WEIGHT AN
OX OF FOUR YEARS OLD WILL GAIN WITH A
SUMMER'S RUN; 2d. AS IT RESPECTS MILK,
AND THE QUALITY OF DAIRY PRODUCE.
NOTES. 273
7th.
The word CRADLING denotes mowing with a
scythe, mounted with hoops, so as to lay the swath
regularly down for sheaving.
8th.
The SLEIGHING SEASON is when there is suffi-
cient snow on the around to admit of sleighs (sledges)
being used on the roads instead of wheel carriages.
9th.
The term SHARES will be understood where it
occurs in the Replies.
10th.
My 28th Query required a reference to ACTUAL
SALES; which unfortunately has been too little at-
tended to.
llth.
In many of the Reports, prices were given in
DOLLARS: in some, NEW YORK CURRENCY, or
8*. to the dollar, was spoken of. To prevent con-
fusion, I have converted these into the provincial
currency of 5s. to a dollar, and four dollars to the
pound, of ISs. sterling.
12th.
The word PLAIN, often used in the Reports, de-
notes a tract, where the timber is thin or free of
under-brush9 generally kept in this state by successive
burnings.
274 CtUERIES.
NOTING THE PRICE WHICH BUTTER AND
CHEESE MADE IN THE TOWNSHIP WILL, NOW
FETCH ?
26th. ORDINARY COURSE OF CROPPING UPON
NEW LANDS, AND AFTERWARDS WHEN
BROKEN UP FROM GRASS ; STATING ALSO
WHEN AND FOR WHAT CROPS MANURE IS
APPLIED ?
27th. IF ANY LAND IS LET ON SHARES; TO
WHAT EXTENT THIS IS PRACTISED ; AND
WHAT THE ORDINARY TERMS?
28th. THE PRICE OF WILD LAND AT THE FIRST
SETTLEMENT OF THE TOWNSHIP ; ITS PRO-
GRESSIVE RISE AND PRESENT • PRICE ; ALSO
OF LAND SO FAR CLEARED ; STATING CIR-
CUMSTANCES AS TO BUILDINGS, PROPORTION
CLEARED, OR PECULIARITY, IF ANY, OF LO-
CAL SITUATION ; REFERRING IN EVERY IN-
STANCE TO ACTUAL SALES ?
29th. aUALITY OF LAND NOW FOR SALE ?
30th. STATE OF PUBLIC ROADS, AND IF CAPA-
BLE OF MUCH IMPROVEMENT AT A MO-
DERATE EXPETSCE ; ALSO, IF ANY WATER
CONVEYANCE ; OR, IF THIS COULD BE OB-
TAINED, EXTENDED, OR IMPROVED, BY
MEANS OF CANALS, LOCKS, &C. &C.
31st. WHAT, IN YOUR OPINION, RETARDS THE
IMPROVEMENT OF YOUR TOWNSHIP IN PAR-
TICULAR, OH THE PROVINCE IN GENERAL ;
AND WHAT WOULD MOST CONTRIBUTE TO
THE SAME?
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 275
SANDWICH.
At a Meeting of the Resident Land Owners of the
Township of Sandwich, in the Western District
of Upper Canada, this 18th Day of December,
1817,
RESOLVED,
THAT an answer be given to the Queries of
Mr. Robert Gourlay, for the information of our
fellow subjects in Britain, who apparently are
ignorant of the advantages in this section of the
empire, when they emigrate into the dominions of
foreign potentates, incongenial to their habits and
feelings, and where they become for ever lost to
their country.
2d. The township of Sandwich began to settle
under the French government about the year 17^0,
and perhaps earlier, and contains at present about
200 inhabited houses, and about 1000 souls. The
front on the river only is settled, with the excep-
tion of a few houses in the interior, and notwith-
standing its nearness to market, and natural ad-
vantages, we do not know of one additional settler
for this number of years.
3d. One Roman Catholic church, and two
priests, no Protestant church or chapel (the
same having been destroyed by the enemy during
T 2
276 WESTERN DISTRICT.
the late war), and but one preacher of the church of
England.
4th. Two medical practitioners.
5th. One school, with one master, who draws
a salary from the provincial fund, of £ 100 per
annum, besides tuition fees. There are also two infe-
rior schools, the teachers of which receive from the
same fund £25 per annum, besides moderate fees.
6th. Thirteen shops or stores. 7th. 8 taverns.
Fth. Eight wind-mills and one water-mill for
grinding wheat. No saw or card ing-mills. Inch
pine boards are at present 5l. per thousand feet;
but they will soon be at half that price.
9th. The face of the township is level, and much
ditching required; the general character of the
soil is yellow and black loam, with a clay under
stratum. The middle of the township is sandy ;
but a mixture of these renders the soil warm and
grateful to vegetation. Wild hay in abundance.
Cattle thrive well.
10th. A great part of the township is a plain,
and the timber most abounding is, white, red, and
black oak, ash, elm, hickory, poplar, maple, and
chestnut.
llth. No minerals, lime-stone, salt rock or
springs, coal, plaster, or remarkable springs have
as yet been discovered.
12th. No stone of any kind but what is trans-
ported from Maiden, the next township, and
sold from 31. to 31. 15s. per toise, of 6 cubic
feet*. In the quarry they may be had for 2s. 6d.
* I presume 6 feet cube was meant. — R. G.
TOWNSHIP ^REPORTS. 277
per toise, and quarried for 7s. 6d. one mile from
the river.
13th. Bricks are made, but not in a sufficient
quantity, and are from 21. to 2l. 10s. per thousand
at the kiln, though the soil is favourable for mak-
ing them.
14th. No lime but what is brought from Maiden,
and generally sold at Is. 3d. per bushel; but it can
be made for much less, and has been sold at 7|d.
per bushel.
15th. Blacksmiths generally have shops of their
own, and earn from ll. to 21. per day*. Carpenters
and masons, 10s. per day, with board and lodging;
and when they work by the piece, they calculate on
more.
16th. Wages of common labourers, per annum,
251. to 371. 10s.; per winter month, 21. to 21. 10s.;
per summer month, 31. to 31. 15s. ; per day in har-
vest, 5s. to 6s. 3d.; women servants, 11. 5s. per
month, but very few are to be hired ; spinners
none.
17th. Mowing, reaping, and cradling, 5s. to 6s. 3d.
18th. Cost of clearing and fencing five acres
of land, about 121. 10s. on an average. Some-
times woodlands are given for a certain time, and
then on shares to repay the person by whose
labour it was cleared.
19th. The price of a work horse of four years,
121. 10s., acow5l., an ox 71. 10s,, and a sheep 11.
* This seems extremely high; but I give it as given me.— R. G.
278 WESTERN DISTRICT.
20th. Wool three to four pounds per fleece ; some
has had nine pounds and twenty pounds of tallow :
common wool, 2s. 6d. per pound.
21st. About the 10th of April, and the 10th
of December. Horned cattle are seldom housed ;
they do better under sheds, and if near the woods,
they browse, and want but very little fodder ; horses
the same, except those kept for work.
22d. Sleighing season from the latter end of
December, to the beginning of March; but com-
monly its duration is but two months, January
and February ; ploughing begins about the be-
ginning of April.
23d. Sowing fall wheat in August and Sep-
tember, and reaping in July. Spring wheat is
sown as early as the season will admit ; in March,
if the frost is out of the ground.
24th. One to one and a half bushels of wheat per
acre, according to the richness of the ground :
average crop about 10 bushels per arpent*, but
when well cultivated it has been known to produce
$0 bushels. The land is not as well cultivated
here as in Britain; it has never more than one
ploughing, and the sod has not sufficient time to
rot and to pulverize.
25th. Blue grass and white clover, the natural
production of the land; no made meadows to
signify ; yet an ox of four years in a summer's run,
will gain about 120lb. Milk is rich, and in the
season overflows the pail. Butter excellent;
* The arpent is to the acre as 180 to 200.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 279
cheese very little made ; it is purchased from our
neighbours over the straight, and is generally at
Is. 3d. per pound. Butter is from Is. 3d. to 2s. 6d.
per pound.
26th. Land is often cleared for the first crop,
and sometimes three crops, according to the labour;
and when taken, it is at for half the produce.
Manure is seldom wanted but on old ground, for
wheat ; two or three crops of Indian corn is taken
off new lands before wheat is sown.
27th. Land within fence, and fit for cultivation,
is generally let for half the produce ; but there are
few tenants of this description, as every one that
chooses can get land of his own,
28th. The price of wild land about twenty years
ago was from Is. 3d. to 2s. 6d. per acre, and its pro-
gressive rise about 2s. 6d. for every five years.
The present price of land is from 10s. to 15s. except
in particular situations, such as lie on the straight.
No lands have been recently sold in the township;
the settlement has been long at a stand. Improved
farms on the border of the straight, with a common
farm-house, barn, and out-houses, orchard, and
about cO acres, within fence, would rate from £%.
10s. to £6. 5s. per acre, arid more, according to the
situation and value of the improvements.
29th. Several tracts of woodland are for sale ; but
for cleared and improved lands, high price would
be the only inducement.
30th. Only one road in front on the river, which
is kept in tolerable repair. The back part of the
280 WESTERN DISTRICT.
township unsettled, except a few scattered houses ;
good roads might be made at a moderate ex pence.
No water ^conveyance in the interior, and from the
evenness of the ground, canals would add much
to the value of the lands, and the encouragement of
the settler.
31st. The want of some incentive to emulation,
the reserve of two-sevenths of the lands for the
crown and clergy, must for a long time keep the
country a wilderness ; a harbour for wolves ; a
hindrance to a compact and good neighbourhood ;
and as these reserves grow in value, they increase
as a political inducement to an enemy. Other
reasons may be added; a defect in the system of
colonization, and too great a quantity of the lands
in the hands of individuals, who do not reside in
the province, and who are not assessed for those
lands. All these circumstances considered, it
must be evident that the present system is very
prejudicial to the internal welfare of this township.
(Signed)
ANGUS MACKINTOSH, J. P. Chairman.
F. BABY, J. P.
G. JACOB, J. P.
JOHN M'GREGOR.
J. B. BABY, J. P.
JAMES M'INTOSH.
JAMES WOODS.
RICHARD POLLARD, Rector of Sandwich.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. J281
MALDEN.
At a Meeting of the principal Inhabitants of the
Township of Maiden, at William Searls Hotel,
William Caldwell, Esq. in the Chair, and Mr.
Alexis Maisonville, Secretary. — Unanimously re-
solved, that the Queries made by Mr. Robert
Gourlay, in his Circular Letter respecting the
Agricultural State of the Township, be answered
as follows :
2d. THE first improvement was made in the year
1784. At present there are 108 inhabited houses,
and 675 persons.
3d. One Catholic chapel, and a Roman Catholic
clergyman.
. 4th. Two medical practitioners.
5th. Three schools, and rate per quarter, is 20s.
6th. Twelve stores.
7th. Five taverns.
8th. Two wind-mills.
9th. The country is level, with good soil.
10th. Oak, hickory, walnut, ash, maple, beech,
elm, and white wood.
12th. Limestone in abundance, which sells at
12s. 6d. per toise at the quarry.
13th. Bricks are made, and now sell at 40s. per
thousand.
14th. Lime is burnt and sold at Is. 3d. per
bushel.
15th. Blacksmiths, masons, and carpenters, get
10s. per diem.
282 WESTERN DISTRICT.
16th. Common labourers get 301. per annum ;
60s. per winter month ; 75s. per summer month ;
6s. per day in harvest ; 7s. 6d. per week is given to
women servants, for house-work.
17th. Mowing, 5s.; and cradling, 7s. 6d. perday.
18th. £5. is the rate for clearing and fencing an
acre of land.
19th. The price of a good work horse of four
years old, is ^£16. A good cow, four years old,
£6. Ox £7. and sheep, 17s. 6d.
20th. Small sheep yield from three to four Ib.
of wool ; the larger breed about 8lb. ; the price of
wool is from 2s. to 2s. 6d. per Ib.
21st. Beasts are commonly turned out to pasture
the 1st of April, and taken into stable 1st of Decem-
ber : those that are not used, can be left out all
winter.
22d. Sleighing lasts from two to three months ;
ploughing begins about the 1st of April.
23d. The fall, or winter wheat, is sown about
the 1st of September.
24th. Reaping is from the 20th of July to the
10th of August. From four to five pecks of wheat
is sown per acre ; and twenty-five to thirty bushels
of wheat is considered an average crop.
25th. Pasture in general excellent, and improves
much on the land being cleared. Butter and
cheese Is. 3d. per Ib.
26th. New land, in the first instance, is planted
with corn 5 the ensuing season, wheat or oats are
sown.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 283
27th. A very small quantity of wild land is let
on halves at presefit, for want of inhabitants.
28th. At first settlement, the price of land was
from Is. to 3s. per acre; the present price is 25^.
per acre ; some land, partly cleared, has been lately
sold at 40s. per acre.
29th. A quantity of land in this township, is
in the hands of individuals, who, doubtless, would
sell to actual settlers.
30th. The public roads in general are pretty good,
and a water communication in front of the town-
ship.
31st. Within this township is the port and town of
Amherstburgh, where a ready market is always found
for every kind of produce. The chief reason that
the township is not more settled, is that, independ-
ent of the extensive crown and clergy reserves,
which are common throughout this province, there
is a large tract of excellent land, (on which there
are one or two mill seats,) reserved for the Huron
Indians, in the upper part of this township ; a great
part of this last reserve, it is presumed, might be
purchased by government, and settled. Another
drawback on the improvement of this township,
arises from a quantity of the lands being in the
hands of individuals who are not inclined to sell,
and also large tracts belonging to minors, who
cannot convey.
(Signed) WM. CALDWELL, J. P. Chairman,
A. MAISONVILLE,
Secretary.
284 WESTERN DISTRICT.
RALEIGH.
Mr. ROBERT GOURLAY,
Raleigh, 3d Dec. 1817.
SIR,
YOUR very interesting Address to the re-
sident householders of Upper Canada having but
lately come to our hands, we the undersigned
inhabitants of the township of Raleigh, deeply im-
pressed with the sense of the many and important
advantages to be expected (not only to the inhabi-
tants of this province, but to thousands of our
fellow subjects in Great Britain) from the system
you propose to adopt, for the encouragement of
emigrants to Canada, have taken the earliest oppor-
tunity of assembling together to answer the Queries
contained in your Address ; in doing which, Sir, we
have to observe that, as agriculture is not carried
on so systematically in this country as in Europe,
some of our answers may appear imperfect to an
English farmer ; however, in answering to the best
of our skill and knowledge, we hope the ends you
aim at will be obtained, particularly as we have
adhered to facts ; happy if any information or
trouble on our part or power to bestow can in any-
wise conduce to ameliorate the unhappy situation
of any part of our distressed fellow creatures, par-
ticularly those of our mother country ; and at the
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 285
same time add strength and increase the prosperity
of this province.
We beg of you, Sir, to accept of our sincere
thanks for the judicious and prompt manner you
have commenced this humane and important ob-
ject, and hope every success may attend your
future endeavours to promote so desirable a mea-
sure as the colonization of this fine country. You
will please to observe that the price affixed to
any article or rate is in New York currency, which
is the currency mostly used in this part of the
province, namely, eight shillings to the dollar, or
two and a half dollars to the pound*. Provision,
board, and lodging, is not included in prices stated
for labour, but which may be fairly estimated at
Is. lOzd. per diem.
2d. The settlement of this township commenced
as early as the year 1792 ; nevertheless there are
but 28 inhabited houses on the bank of the
Thames at present, containing 198 souls, and a set-
tlement commenced on the banks of lake Erie
last spring, inhabiting 25 houses, containing 7-5
souls.
3d. No churches : one methodist preacher.
4th. No medical practitioner.
5th. One common school, the teacher of which
receives 15s. per quarter for each scholar, and the
legislature, by a late act, grants the teacher -of
each common school in the province a further sum
* I have converted all prices into Halifax currency, of 5s. to
the dollar, as mentioned in the notes above. R. G.
286 WESTERN DISTRICT.
of 251. yearly, provided there are taught in the
said school at least twenty scholars.
6th and 7th. Five stores, and one tavern.
8th. Two mills wrought by horses or oxen,
which grind merely for home consumption.
9th. The soil varies but little on the dry lands,
being a rich black soil on the surface, underneath
a strong loam several feet in depth, then stiff blue
clay.
10th. Timber, white oak, red oak, lynn, elm,
hard and soft maple, beech, ash, hickory, black
and white walnut, poplar, iron wood, and
cherry,
llth. No minerals, limestones, salt, or plaster
of Paris, have been yet discovered ; nor is there
any building stone.
13th. Bricks are made in this township, and sold
for 11. 1 7s. 6d. per thousand at the kiln.
14th. No lime burnt.
15th. Wages of a mason, 10s. per diem ; a car-
penter, 5s. to 6s. 3d.; a blacksmith, 5s. We know
of no rule that masons and carpenters have for
piece-work. Blacksmiths sell their wrought iron for
Is. lOfd. per Ib.
16th. Labourers, 21. 10s. in winter, and Si. 2s.
6d. in summer per month ; 5s. per day in harvest,
and hay. Wages for women servants, 6s. 3d. per
week, for house-work and spinning.
17th. For mowing and putting in cocks, wild
grass, 5s. per ton. Cradling wheat, and putting
in shock, 7s. 6d. per acre.
18th. For clearing five acres of all timber, and
1
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 287
fencing it, 251. For clearing five acres of all
under-brush and trees, under a foot diameter at
the stump, and putting the same under fence,
151. 12s. 6d.
19. A four-year old work horse, £15. A four-
year old cow, 5\. 12s. 6d. A sheep, £\.
20th. Average quantity of wool from each coun-
try sheep, two pounds and a half: price 2s. 6d.
per pound. Part Merino, three pounds, 3s. 9d.
per pound.
21st. Cattle go to pasture about the middle
of April, and are stabled or taken to the yard about
the beginning of December.
22d. Sleighing commences about the last of De-
cember, or beginning of January, and generally lasts
to the beginning of March. Ploughing commences
the beginning of April.
23d. Wheat is usually sown in September, and
reaping commences the latter end of July.
24th. If wheat is sown early in September, a
bushel per acre is sufficient ; but if late in Septem-
ber, one and a quarter bushel is usually taken.
Twenty bushels of wheat per quarter is considered
an average crop.
25th. The wild range is so extensive, that no one
has tame pasture for their cattle, nor can we, with
any degree of certainty, answer to the increase of
an ox in a summer's run. Cheese and butter, Is. 3d.
per pound.
26th. New land is generally planted with Indian
corn in the month of May, and in September fol-
lowing wheat is sown among the corn. After
taking off the wheat, the ensuing year, if the
288 WESTERN DISTRICT.
land is a good quality, it is again sown with wheat;
if not, it lays waste until May or June, then
ploughed, and in September sown again with
wheat. Manure is not used for any particular
crops, and was it not for the quantities accumu-
lating in barn yards, very little would be used.
Many fields in the space of 25 years have produced
20 crops without a single shovel full of manure,
and the last a good average crop.
27th. When arable land is let on shares, the
tenant gives the proprietor one third what is raised;
thus, wheat and oats (after being cut) in the shock;
Indian corn, when pulled and husked ; pease when
threshed, the proprietor paying for threshing ; pota-
toes and turnips, when dug or pulled, in the same
proportion.
28th. At the commencement of the settlement,
lots of 200 acres, situated on the banks of the
Thames, were sold at £'25. In 1804, they sold
for £131. 5s. The same lands are now selling at
<£2.50 without improvements. Back lands of the
best quality may be fairly estimated at one third
of these prices.
29th. It is impossible for us to state what quan-
tity of land is for sale in the township, the greatest
part being deeded to non-residents, some of whom
are in Lower Canada, and others in England ; nor
do we know what quantity government has granted
to individuals.
30th. The lands being level, roads are good, and
easily kept in repair. The Thames, which washes
the north west bank of this township, affords those
near it an excellent means of conveyance, there
3
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 289
being from 18 to 20 feet water in the river,
and from six to seven feet on the bar where it
empties into lake St. Clair, which affords water
enough for small vessels to enter or go out loaded.
On the south west, lake Erie affords water com-
munication, either upwards or downwards, for
vessels of any size. The face of the township,
generally speaking, is low, particularly that part
joining Tilbury, it being overflowed part of the
year; but from pretty correct information, a wide
ditch, half a mile in length, leading into lake
Erie, would drain great part of the wet lands, the
baaks on the lake being at least 80 feet high, and
the descent in the rear not exceeding 10 or 12
feet. The lands adjoining Harwich are nearly
all dry, and fit for cultivation. On the whole,
about one half of the township, in its present
state, is fit for cultivation. A plain, or meadow,
about a mile wide, crosses the township from
Tilbury to Harwich, within half a mile of the
Thames, part of which is considered of the best
quality of land in the township.
31st. The want of settlers, particularly men of
sufficient means to purchase lands, we conceive
to be the greatest cause of retarding the improve-
ment of our township : situated at such a distance
from the seaports of Canada, those who come
from Europe either think the distance too great,
or have not the means of transporting their fami-
lies 600 or 700 miles after landing in Lower
Canada. There are many thousand acres of ex-
cellent land now lying waste in this township,
u
290 WESTERN DISTRICT.
which might be bought or leased at very mo-
derate terms, were there only purchasers or tenants
to be found.
WM. M'CRAE, J. P. JACOB DOLSON,
THOS. CROW, DANIEL DOLSON,
JAMES FORSYTH, GEO. JACOB, Jim.
HEECKIA WILLCOX, WM. STIRLING,
JOHN LAIRD, JOHN PECK,
FRANCIS DRAKE, NINIAN HOLMES.
JOHN WILLIAMS,
NOTE.
In the following Report, page 293, a canal is
mentioned as practicable between the townships of
Raleigh and Tilbury east, from the Thames to lake
Erie ; and, no doubt, such may be executed, were
the time come in which expences could be discharged.
The reporters, I suspect, make a great mistake as to
the fall of 30 feet, by which is meant the fall from
the surface level of lake St. Clair to that of lake
Erie. Mr. Dencke, the Moravian missionary, told
me that he was at the meeting, and gave his opinion
that the fall was not more than ~L5feet. In my opi-
nion it is not more than half of that. There is a
considerable current in Detroit river ; but a very
few feet of fall will produce that appearance, even
for miles.
In the heading of next Report, Dover, east and
west, would make us think there were two townships;
but neither the map, no$ the record of civil divisions,
justifies this. Lord Selkirk's purchase of upwards
of 70,000 acres lies, I think, partly in Dover,
partly in Chatham ; but the reporters do not reckon
in their statement of population his settlement at
Baldoon.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 291
DOVER, EAST AND WEST, CHATHAM,
CAMDEN, ORFORD, HOWARD,
AND HARWICH, ON THE RIVER
THAMES.
A Report of a Convention of the Inhabitants of the
above Townships, in answer to certain Queries /
proposed by Mr. R. Gourlay.
2d. IN Dover, east and west, there are 45 (I sup-
pose, inhabited houses) ; in Chatham 27; Cainden
17; Harwich 19; Howard 25; Orford (see Sup-
plementj. The said townships commenced settling
in 1794.
3d. (Referred to Rev. C. F. Denkey), see Sup-
plement.
4th. One practitioner of physic.
5th. Four schools — rate 15s. per quarter.
6th. Seven stores.
7th. Four taverns.
8th. Two grist mills. One saw mil! — rate one
quarter of the timber when sawed. (See Supple-
ment.)
9th. A level surface generally throughout the
said townships ; soil of the first quality, the sur-
face of which is a black light loam, with a grey ciay
under, and void of stone of any description what-
ever.
10th. Beech, black ash, white ash, red and white
oak, hickory, black and white walnut, linden, bass
292 WESTERN DISTRICT.
wood, by some called white wood, maple, wild
cherry, chestnut, tulip.
llth. (Referred to the Rev. C. F. Denkey), see
Supplement.
15th. Brick is made, and sells at 35s. per thou-
sand.
14th. None.
15th. Carpenters' and smiths' wages 7s. 6d. per
day. — Masons' 10s. per day.
16th. Men's wages average at j£30 per annum: in
the winter months 40s. ; summer months 70s. ; days
in harvest 5s. ; women's and girls' wages at from 5s.
to 6s. 3d. per week.
17th. Price for mowing an acre of grass, harvest-
ing, cradling, and reaping wheat, 7s. 6d.
18th. Clearing and fencing according to the
custom of the country (say), leaving such timber as
can be killed with the axe over one foot diameter,
at J4 per acre.
19th. A work horse of four years old from £13
to £15; a good ox JlO; a good cow £6 5s. ; a
sheep from 15s. to 20s.
20th. Average wool from a sheep from three to
four pounds; price from 2s. 6d. to 3s. 9d. per pound.
21st. Turning out to pasture about 15th April,
and taken in 1st December.
22d. Ordinary sleighing season, from 1st January
to the 10th of March.
23d. Sowing season is from the 1st September
until 10th October. — Reaping wheat commences
1st August.
t.h. The quantity of wheat generally sown is
TOWNSHIP REPORTS.
five pecks per acre, and the increase from one acre
Is 25 bushels on an average ; but when well culti-
vated, will produce from 35 to 40 bushels.
25th. An ox of four years old will gain on a
summer run, 200 pounds: price of butter and
cheese is Is. 3d. per pound.
26th. Manure not particularly required, on ground
that has been cultivated upwards of 10 years.
27th. Lands rent (particular spots) at 12s. 6d.
per acre ; and if on shares, at one third of the pro-
duce.
28th. Some farms in good local situations, with
tolerable buildings and orchards thereon, well cul-
tivated, containing 200 acres of land, sold for ^690.
The average price of lands from the first settlement
of these townships, were from 2s. 6d. to 20s. per
acre.
29th. Not known.
30th. One on each side of the river, and not in
so good repair, on account of the facility of the water
communication. One canal in particular is practi-
cable of being cut between the townships of Ra-
leigh and Tilbury East, from the river Thames
across to lake Erie, a distance only of 15 miles in
extent, and will admit of a fall of 30 feet, which
canal, if made, will save a distance of 140 miles in
the communication to Fort Erie, and will be the
means of draining thousands of acres of land.
31st. From the great quantities of lands held by
individuals and absentees, and the want of a popu-
lation.
The quantity of wheat harvested in the summer
294 WESTERN DISTRICT.
of IS 17, by the small number of 114 farmers resid-
ing in the townships above mentioned, was 40,000
bushels, mid the lands in said townships will pro-
duce, in proportionable abundance, pease, oats,
barley, Indian corn, hemp, and flax.
JOSHUA CORNWALL, Chairman.
JOHN DOLSON, Assistant Chairman.
By Order,
SAMUEL OSBORN, Secretary,
SUPPLEMENT to the Report of a Convention,
Sfc. fyc. on the River Thames.
QUERY 3d. In all those named townships, there
is at present but one pro tempore church at Orford
township, in the Indian missionariot, having one
stated, ordained missionary, and an assistant. Be-
sides this, the Methodist connexion have regularly
one itinerant missionary on the river.
The inhabitant Indians on Orford township, are
in the town of New Fairfield, containing 29
houses and huts, and one church ; say 30 buildings,
inhabited by 120 Christian Indians belonging to
the society. The Indians live in 27 houses and
huts, then the missionary's and assistant's dwellings
and a church ; in all 30 buildings. Besides these,
there are wintering upon the tract 47 persons, who
attend Divine service, in all, 167 souls at present
abiding here of the Delaware and Iroquois nation.
An Indian school is kept in Indian and English.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 295
In regular seasons more than 4000 bushels of Indian
corn was raised here. The cleared flats amount to
about 350 acres of the best soil. Of this, some
part, after yielding corn* upwards of 20 years, is
now sowed in wheat.
QUERY 8th. As an addition of one quarter is
given to the sawyer, ,one quarter goes to the mill
master, and the half belongs to the log owners.
QUERY llth. Natural History in general,
through its three kingdoms, has not yet been suf-
ficiently investigated ; therefore not much may be
said. Respecting the mineral kingdom, the follow-
ing may be answered in a cursory view. In the
townships of Orford and Camden are salt springs ;
besides this, in the first there are several petrolinian
springs, as the sulphur and naphtha, or oil spring ; in-
dicating, we think, coal in the bed. Besides this,
several fossils, and a kind of red earth, and a softened
ore slate, much resembling ochre, which, when
burned, gives a kind of paint, near to Spanish brown.
Pieces of petrifaction and ore found at the bank of
the river at the rapids.
Potters' clay generally found throughout all the
townships, and potters' ware well made.
CHRISTIAN FREDERICK DENKEY-)-,
Missionary,
* When the word CORN is used in Upper Canada, it always
means Indian corn, otherwise called maize. — R. G.
+ A German name, properly spelt Dencke ; but the missionary
writes as above, to suit English pronunciation. — R. G,
296
LONDON DISTRICT.
Additional Information by Mr. Dencke.
THE Indians under his charge have not increased
by breeding since the first Moravian church estab-
lishment ; but others come in among them, as will
appear from the following table :
Baptisms.
Years.
Infants.
Adults conie
into Society.
Deaths.
1800
6
2
5
1801
6
0
1
1802
7
1
5
1803
12
2
7
1804
13
1
11
180,5
4
1
5
1806
7
1
6
1807
4
1
0
1808
5
0
5
1809
0
2
1
1810
10
0
8
1811
4
2
2
1812
1
1
3
1813
12
5
26
1814
9
0
20
1813
6
1
9
1816
3
2
11
1817
3
3
6
114
25
131
| The war will
/account for the
greater number
of deaths these
years : six were
slain in battle.
Mr. D. wishes it to be known that no women
or children of the Moravians were killed, all
having arrived safe at Burlington after their village
was burnt. Sister Eleonora, reported to be killed,
was afterwards seen alive by Mr. D. There was one
Chippawa woman killed and scalped.
The habit and desire of drinking is conquered in
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 297
general among the Moravian Indians ; but when
tipsy, with few exceptions, or none, they still
shew the savage. They have, of late years, hired
out in harvest to neighbouring farmers, and have
kept themselves more sober than the white people.
From 1809, and up to the present time, more chil-
dren have been taken off by diseases (not small
pox, for Mr. D. vaccinates) but by epidemic and
bilious fevers.
Indians in general make light of marriage. Mr.
D. has got those under his charge to consider it
sacred and binding. As to property, they do not
hold all things in common. Town lots are laid
out for buildings and gardens, while each Indian
may clear and fence in as much land as he chooses,
keeping the produce to himself.
The women do most of the agricultural work ;
cut and carry wood, plant, hoe, and gather in the
corn, &c. The men are chiefly occupied in hunt-
ing. When they bring home the game it is offered
to the women as their property, while the men
claim the produce of agriculture as theirs. Prior
to the war they had about 30 horses, and oO horned
cattle, besides a great many hogs and poultry. They
have now from 16 to 20 horses, 10 cows, and about
as many other horned cattle. They make brooms
and baskets of swamp ash split down • also mats
of the same material, and of flags and rushes. They
stain these articles red with the bark of the alder;
black with that of butter nut and black walnut;
and blue with indigo, bought in the stores. Belt
cords for carrying burdens are made of the wild
298 LONDON DISTRICT.
hemp (asclapius). Belts and knee bands of woollen
thread, the shreds of old blankets, &c. The men
are expert at hewing wood, erecting houses, making
furniture, &c. Corn is their principal vegetable
food, prepared in many different ways; and of late
years a few potatoes, turnips, and cabbage, have
been raised.
Other Indians have vermilion from government
to paint their bodies ; but the Moravians are for*
bidden to practise this.
SUMMARY OF POPULATION, &C.
IN the above reported townships, there seem to
be of white inhabitants, reckoning the inhabited
houses of Dover, East and West, Chatham, Camp-
den, Howard, and Harwich, to contain six per-
sons each, 2728.
Besides these townships, there are, in the West-
ern District, eight others, viz. Colchester, Gosfield,
Mersea, Romney, Tilbury, East and West, Roches-
ter, and Maidstone. The three first began settling
in 1784, under the name of the New settlement, in
contradistinction to the old French settlement; and
we may suppose them to contain 1200.
The five remaining townships have no regular
settlements, and I have reason to think they do
not contain above 30 straggling houses, which, cal-
culating six persons to each, will give ISO.
Lord Selkirk began his settlement of Bal-
doon, lo miles north of the mouth of the river
Thames, in 1803, with 111 people, of whom
3
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 299
42 died the first season ; and the settlement was
laid waste during the war by a party of Americans
under *M* Arthur, who landed here und penetrated
within a little wt»y of the Grand river. There are
now (1817) only nine or ten families — say 50.
Making the whole white population 4158.
Trie Indians* ot Ortord are stated to be in num-
ber 167.
A little way up the Thames, and on the north
side, there are two villages, in the tract called the
Longwoods, ot Indians, denominated Munsies, ori-
ginally from the States, but permitted to settle here
by the Chippawa Indians. Their number about
200.
There are two regular reserves for Indians in the
Western District, viz. that of the Hurons, between
Sandwich and Maiden ; and the Shawnese tract
lying north of Baldoon. The inhabitants of these,
with parties which encamp in the woods at various
places, do not, I presume, make the whole Indian
population, in or within 20 miles of surveyed land,
amount in whole to 1000.
To the reported population of 2728, there ap-
pear to be 3 Roman catholic, I episcopal, and 1
methodist, preachers, 5 medical practitioners, 11
schools, and ..18 taverns.
Improvement is said to be retarded by crown
and clergy reserves ; lands of non-occupants ; want
of settlers and capital ; want of incentive to emula-
tion ; and a detect in the system of colonization.
NOTES,
EXPLANATORY, CONTINUED FROM PAGE 273.
13th.
Having given the foregoing Reports at full length,
saving those few exceptions mentioned in the preli-
minary Notes, the reader will be convinced, that to
continue doing so would occupy much room unneces-
sarily, and render the perusal, which at any rate
must be heavy, from repetitions, quite overburdened,
lu the following Reports, then, nothing shall be ad-
mitted which can be clearly expressed by figures;
and such information shall be so arranged in Tables
as to appear at one glance both for itself, for compa-
rison, and for the exhibition of averages.
14th.
The mode and rate of charge for sawing timber
having been sufficiently exemplified above, and the
practice throughout corresponding thereto, answers
to the Query regarding these will henceforth be
omitted. Carding machines, and the price of card-
ing wool, will only be noticed where these exist.
15th.
There are few, if any, wind mills in the province,
save those abovementioned in the western district.
All that are reckoned in the tables, are moved by
water.
NOTES. 301
16th.
A bushel of rvheat, is so universally the allowance
in sowing an acre, in the early part of the season,
that replies, as to that, will be henceforth omitted.
The quantity is increased as the season gets ad-
vanced, to 5 pecks, and in some cases, though few,
to 6 pecks.
17th.
The prices of bricks and lime will only be quoted
in the Tables, when made and burnt within the
Township.
18th.
The price of reaping and cradling wheat is so com-
monly stated to be that of a bushel of wheat, that no
further notice will be taken of it. Women generally
get for spinning, Is. more per week, than for house
work.
19th.
To quote all the Replies to Queries 2lst. 22d. and
%3d. would be unnecessarily tedious. I shall, there-
fore, only give them in two adjoining Reports of
each District, which will be quite sufficient for the
reader s information.
20th.
When by any turn of expression, singularity of
fact, or otherwise, a reply is worthy of notice, it shall
appear at langth, independent of the above general
302 LONDON DISTRICT.
DELAWARE, WESTMINSTER, AND
DORCHESTER.
At a Meeting of all the Inhabitants of the Town-
ships of Delaware, Westminster, and Dorchester,
assembled at the House of Archibald M'Millan,
at Westminster Plains, on the 15th December,
1817, for the purpose of considering the propriety
of answering certain Queries submitted to the
Resident Land Owners of Upper Canada, by
llobert Gourlay, Esq. in his Address of October
last, it was unanimously agreed, that the said
Queries could not be so correctly answered by the
People in their collective Capacity, as by certain
discreet Persons, delegated by them for that Pur-
pose. They, therefore, elected a Committee,
consisting of Daniel Springer, Esq. Mr. Gideon
Tiffaney, Mr. B. B. Brigam, Mr. Timothy
Kilbourn, Mr. Joseph Webster, Mr. Archibald
M'Millan, Mr. Aaron Kilbourn, Mr. Andrew
Banghart, Mr. Jacobus Shenich, Mr. Joseph
Idel, Mr. Joseph Flaningan, Mr. Seth Putman,
Mr. Sylvanis Reynolds, Mr. James A. Mullet,
to constitute and form a Committee to answer the
said Queries, in such a Marnier as to them might
seem expedient, and to meet for that Purpose on
the llth Instant. The Meeting adjourned.
Westminster Plains, 17th December, 1817.
THE Committee* met pursuant to adjournment,
and elected Daniel Springer, Esq. Chairman, and
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 303
Mr. Joseph Webster, Secretary, when the follow-
ing were adopted, as answers to the said Queries:
3d. In Delaware, one church, but no Clergyman*.
Westminster, no church ; but visited by itinerant
preachers. Dorchester the same.
9th. All, generally speaking, levelj- and well
watered, with a marly loamy soil, and extensive
flats on the Thames.
10th. White pine, red and white oak, cherry,
elm, black walnut, ash, beech, maple, and bass-wood.
llth. No minerals in Delaware; but there is
iron ore in Westminster and Dorchester.
12th. Some building stones of good quality in
each township.
14th. Farmers burn lime in log heaps, conse-
quently no particular price per bushel.
25th. Not only the flats of the Thames, but
woods in general, are covered with grass, in a state
of nature, which is good. An ox will gain one-
fourth of his weight with a summer's run.
26th. First crop, wheat harrowed in and stocked
with grass. When the sod is broken up, we sum-
mer fallow and sow with wheat. No manure has
yet been applied.
* This church was erected in a beautiful situation during Sim-
coe's government. It is now falling to wreck, a sad monument of
an unprincipled departure from liberal measures.— R. G.
+ In Westminster there is considerable inequality of surface.
The high road at one place rises perhaps 150 feet abore the
Thames.— R. G.
304 LONDON DISTRICT.
27th. Very little land is rented or let on shares.
The land, if let, draws one-third of the crop.
Land is so plenty, that almost every person is the
owner of some.
28th. The flats on the Thames have always sold
high, and are now worth £3 per acre.
29th. There are lands for sale; but the quantity
is not ascertained.
30th. The public roads are not in a very good
state, but are gradually improving, by means of
annual labour, which the law imposes on every
individual inhabitant. Our townships are bound-
ed on the river Thames, which affords a good
water communication to Sandwich and Amherst-
burgh.
31st. The greater part of the lands which con-
stitute the township of Delaware, were granted
many years ago to persons not resident in this
part of the province ; or are crown and clergy
reserves, which has been and still continues to be
an unsurmountable obstacle to the formation of a
compact settlement in it. In the township of
Westminster, no lands have as yet been granted,
but to actual settlers. And if that system is pur-
sued by the government, it will, no doubt, soon
form a most delightful, populous, and wealthy
settlement.
The principal part of the township of Dorchester,
which is not composed of crown and clergy re-
serves, has been granted to persons not resident in
this part of the province ; and there does not ap-
pear at present to be any probability that it will
1
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 305
be settled soon, unless men of capital should pur-
chase.
If his Majesty's government should grant or
dispose of the crown and clergy reserves to actual
settlers, and the colonial legislature should lay a
tax upon the lands of absentees, so as to induce
them to sell or contribute to the improvement of
roads, &c. we are of opinion that the province in
general would be more prosperous and happy.
If granting the lands bounded on Dundas street
to actual settlers only, had not been deviated from*,
the province would most unquestionably be in a
much higher state of improvement, by the passage
of so direct and well settled a road through it.
And we esteem it as an object of the most primary
importance to the welfare of the province, for the
Colonial Executive Government to purchase from
the natives, the tract of land on the west side of
the Thames, between the township of Delaware
and the Moravian grant, the road through which
is now in a tolerable state, and lay out a continu-
ation of Dundas street through the same, subject
to actual settlement on the principle of Talbot
road.
By order of the Committee,
(Signed) DANIEL SPRINGER,
Chairman.
(Signed)
JOSEPH WEBSTER, Secretary.
* It was deviated from immediately after Governor Simeoe wai
recalled.— R. G.
306 STATISTICAL
Shewing the commencement of improvement in
Names of Settlers.
To what Profession
bred.
Native of
How long in Canada
Family at Home.
Henry Crook . .. .
Farmer and lime
ArMci0"!! Ire*
Ar iv d th'
Awifp
burner.
land.
year, 1817.
WHc.
Wm. Orr
Farmer and
Ditto.
Ditto.
Wif> 2rhildr*>n
weaver.
w lie, >6cniiQreii
and sister.
John Smith
Farmer and
United States.
30 years.
Wife and fi r>Ml
shoemaker.
W lie cLDU O CHI1-
dren.
James Tomlinson ..
Distiller.
Ditto.
20 ditto.
Wife and 3 chil.
Joseph Lyons
Farmer.
Ditto.
8 ditto.
Wife and 1 child
Thomas Orr
Weaver and
Armagh, I re-
Arrived this
- .
farmer.
land.
year.
Isaac Riley
Carpenter and
Ditto.
Ditto.
Wife not ar-
farmer.
rived.
Joseph Tomlinson ...
Farmer.
United States.
20 years.
Wife and 3 chil-
dren.
Lawrence Renney ...
Ditto.
Canada.
Lifetime.
Wife.
Samuel Renney
Ditto.
Ditto.
Ditto.
Andrew Nevells ...
Ditto.
Ditto.
Ditto.
Wife and! child
Daniel McPberson...
Ditto.
United States.
25 years.
Wife and 4 chil-
dren.
Garden Chapel
Ditto.
Ditto.
19 ditto.
Wife.
Charles Pettys
Ditto.
Ditto.
30 ditto.
Wife and 2 chil-
dren.
John Commons
Ditto.
Ditto.
6 ditto.
Ditto.
Samuel Hunt
7armerand Cur-
Ditto.
6 ditto.
Wife and 3 chil-
rier.
dren.
John Vansickel
Farmer.
Ditto.
11 ditto.
Wife and 5 chil-
dren.
Aaron Kilburn
Millwright.
Ditto.
21 ditto.
Wife and 7 chil.
Andrew Banghart ...
Carpenter.
Ditto.
9 ditto.
Wife and 5 chil.
Abraham S'oot
Carpenter and
Canada.
Lifetime.
Wife and 3 chil-
Farmer.
ren, father and
mother.
Vernum Mathews ...
Farmer.
United States.
23 years.
Wife and 5 chil-
dren.
21 Farmers, 19 Wives', 51 Children,— !
n all 94 Persons.
The above Table was made out by me when travelling through the country, and
I left schedules to be filled up in Norwich, and on the Talbot Road, which will be
fouml in their proper places. This table exhibits a settlement just beginning. They
mark the progress of some years of improvement. — R. G.
TABLE. 307
Westminster New Settlement, London District.
LIVE STOCK.
Date of commencing
improvement.
i i 1
£ o
i
o
X
i
w
Number of
Acr°s put ic
crop aii!!
L
Dimension
of house
ereeced.
Sizeo;
farm.
Original cost.
17th August,
2
2
0
0
0
3
W by 1
•200
41 Dollars
1817.
and Is.
Ditto.
1
2
0
0
0
4*
27 by 1
Do.
Do.
1st June, 1817
2
Bull &4
yo.cattle
0
0
0
7
18 by 1
Do.
Free, being a
U. E. loyalist.
July, 1816.
2
2
0
0
0
15
30 by 1
Do.
41DolIars&ls.
Nov. 1816.
2
0
0
0
10 mo.
i
20 by 18
Do.
Do.
unwell.
1st Oct. 181 7.
0
0
0
0
0
2§
0
Do.
Do.
17th August,
0
0
0
0
0
7
0
Do.
Do.
1817.
June, 1816.
0
0
0
0
0
7
22 by 17
Do.
Do.
1st March, 1817.
2
2
0
0
4*
'*
0
Do.
Do.
Ditto.
1
2
0
0
3
5
20 by 16
Do.
Do.
Ditto.
0
2
0
0
6
6
26 by 18
Do.
Do.
Began 1816, Set-
3
2
2
0
0
5
28 by 20
Do.
Do.
tied Sept. 1817.
March, 1817.
1
2
0
0
2
5
21 by 18
Do.
Do.
Ditto.
2
0
1
7
4|
11
24 by 16
Do.
Do.
Ditto.
1
2
0
7
3
13
20 by 20
Do.
Do.
Ditto.
2
2
0
0
13
17
22 by 22
Do.
Do.
10th June,
2
2
0
0
4
0
20 by 20
Do.
Do.
Ditto.
April, Ditto.
3
2
2
12
15
5
8 by 16
Do.
Do.
March, Ditto.
2
0
2
0
10
22
0 by 14
Do.
Do.
February,
1
0
0
0
4
5£
0 by 20
Do.
rree, beinp a
Ditto.
[7. E. loyalist.
June, Ditto.
3
0
1
0
4
0
2 by 22
Do.
41 Doll ns
and Is.*
Total*. 32
29
8
26
73
75J
* The fees were lately raised from 91. 7s. 6d. to this sum.
x 2
308 LONDON DISTRICT.
OXFORD.
At a Meeting of the Resident Landholders of the
Township of Oxford, held at the School-house
on Wednesday the 24th day of December, 1817,
for the Purpose of taking into Consideration the
Propriety of answering certain Queries proposed
in an Address to the Resident Landowners of
Upper Canada, published in the Upper Canada
Gazette in October last, and signed Itobert
Gourlay ; Peter Teeple, Esq. in the Chair.
IT was resolved unanimously, That we conceive
it proper to answer the same, and that the fol-
lowing answers to the Queries, as they come in
order, be given.
9th. Soil, a dark loam surface ; level, and ex-
tremely well watered.
10th. Timber — maple, beech, elm, pine, cedar,
oak, cherry, ash, basswood, and butternut.
llth. Abundance of limestone: a sulphur
spring.
12th. None.
21st. Ordinary time of turning out beasts to pas-
ture, first of April ; and taking them in, 1st December.
22d. Sleighing, two months; ploughing com-
mences 1st of April.
23d. Wheat sown in September, and reaped in
August.
25th. Pasture good ; an ox will gain one fourth
in a summer's run ; quality of the dairy produce
is good.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. . 309
26th. First crop wheat: second Indian corn, or
oats: land stocked with grass, with the oat crop,
and, with rye after the corn. When broken up
from grass, wheat or peas : no manure has been ap-
plied.
27th. Land sometimes let on shares ; the owner
of the land receives one third of the crop in the
field when harvested.
28th. A two hundred acre lot, with thirty acres
cultivated land, a log house, and frame barn, 30
by 40 feet, is worth £500.
28th. Greatest part of the land in the township
for sale.
50th. Roads tolerably good ; can be much im-
proved at a moderate ex pence ; conveyance by
water down the river Thames ; the north-east
branch of the river passing through the township.
The navigation of the river is capable of improve-
ment, by removing some obstructions, and deepen-
ing the channel in some places.
31st. We conceive that a want of persons of
ability to purchase the lands in the township, and
becoming actual settlers, is what principally re-
tards the improvement of the same.
It is unanimously agreed, that the Chairman do
sign the proceedings of this day, and transmit the
same to Mr. Gourlay.
(Signed) PETER TEEPLE,
Chairman.
310 „ LONDON DISTRICT.
BLENHEIM AND THE FIRST CONCES-
SION OF BURFORD.
9th. Sand and loam, with some good clay ; a good
soil.
10th. Beech, maple, oak, hickory, and good
pine mixed with other, as elm, bass, and white
ash : of the maple, sugar is made, of which one
man will make 5 cwt. in six weeks.
llth. Minerals none, except a few limestone on
the surface.
12th. None discovered as yet.
18th. New land 31. 15s. per acre ; the first crop
generally pays it.
21st. Middle of April, turn out ; take into barn
1st of December.
22d. Sleighing two months ; ploughing com-
mences 20th of April.
23d. September, sowing ; reaping in August.
25th. Quality good, suppose one-fifth or one-
sixth ; 2d. one cow will make three quarters
of a pound of butter per day.
26th. To clear and fence, three years crop: from
grass, one-third for land, manure applied for none ;
not being wanted.
27th. Some let for the half; the owner finding
team.
28th. Drawn from government at first; price
from 10s. to Us. at this time — Farms at 31. 15s.
per acre; or, 21. with log buildings.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 311
29th. Not known; but we suppose all but what
is now occupied ; probably 50 lots not sold, except
two-sevenths reserves.
30th. Roads good, for new ; might be better by
work ; one small river for rafts.
31st. Not certainly known, but we suppose that
land being not known where the owners are, and
there not being any highway tax on non-resident
lands to be paid in the town, or the land to be sold.
The above answers given by a general meeting,
holden on Dundas street, in Blenheim, and signed
by us, being landholders in said places first men-
tioned, this 2d day of December, 1817, and
by our Chairman,
SAMUEL BARTLETT.
JOSIAL F. DEAN. HENRY DANIAD.
STEPHEN GRAHAM. JOHN EACHENS.
JOHN GALBRAITH. ALEX. STARKEY.
SILAS MARTIN. JAMES SMILEY.
BURFORD.
At a Meeting of the principal Inhabitants of Bur-
ford, and the Gore of Burford, assembled for the
purpose of answering certain Queries, proposed
by Mr. Gourlay, respecting the general and par-
ticular State of the said Township.
LiEux.-CoL. WILLIAM D. BOWEN, Chairman.
312 LONDON DISTRICT.
8th. One fulling mill, one carding machine, 6d.
per Ib. for carding.
9th. The township of Burford and the Gore, has
a level surface, interspersed with useful streams
and springs, the water very fine. The soil a sandy
loam, fertile and durable,
10th. Timbered with sugar maple, beech, white
pine, white, black, red, chesnut, &c. oak, white
and red elm, basswood, butternut, white and black
ash, hickory, chesnut, cedar, &c,
llth. An indication of iron ore has lately been
discovered, on a branch of the Grand river, that
runs through the township : no other minerals
have yet been discovered.
12th. Stone scarce, and none fit for building.
15th. Four blacksmiths, who charge for shoeing
ahorse 12s. 6d. for an axe 12s. 6d. for a scythe 8s.9d.
There are two tailors, who charge 27s. 6d. for
making a coat, and 10s. for pantaloons : two shoe-
makers, who charge 3s. 9d. for making a pair of
shoes: five carpenters, charge 10s. per day and
found.
25th. The pasture is capable of great improve-
ment. A cow is estimated to give one Ib. of butter
and two of cheese per day.
26th. Wheat is the first crop put on new lands,
afterwards Indian corn, rye, oats, peas, flax, pota-
toes, &c. Plaster of Fans is used as a manure for
clover, on the plains, one bushel of which is sown
per acre, and the ordinary crop of -clover is three
tons per acre ; little other manure is used.
27th. Land is let out to no great extent, new
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 313
land on the plains is let for the halves, the person
who takes it, to be at hair' of the expense of clear-
ing, fencing, ploughing, and harvesting. It (the
crop) is divided in the sheaf. On improved lands,
if the owner finds team, plough, board, and lodging,
the workman has one third of the crop, divided in
the sheaf.
29th. The quantity of land for sale within the
township unknown, and the owners of the soil
generally unknown to the inhabitants.
30th. The roads on the plains generally good,
and made at a small ex pence. In the wood lands,
they are capable of great improvement, which
might be accomplished at no great ex pence.
3 1 st. The principal cause affecting the prosperity
and growth of the township, is considered by the
inhabitants at this meeting, as resulting from, the
quantities of land granted to non-residents, and the
great number of reserved lots ; these reserves being
scattered all over the township, not only preclude
the compact settlement of the same, but materially
affects its settlement in general; as the purchaser
of a lot, if he is not so fortunate as to procure one
handy to the roads already made, is under the
necessity of making them, through perhaps several
reserves, and the lands belonging to people that
reside in other parts of the world, thereby enhancing
their value at a great individual expence.
We consider that good English farmers, mecha*
nics, and labourers, if they could obtain lands in
this township, and all the crown and a proportion
of the clergy reserves, sold or given to actual set>
2
314 LONDON DISTRICT.
tiers, would be an object of great importance to the
further improvement and growth of this township.
Signed, in behnlf of the Inhabitants, by
WILLIAM D. BOWEN, Chairman.
Burford, 5tk Dec. 1817.
WINDHAM.
MR. ROBERT GOURLAY.
SIR,
HAVING received a circular letter, with
your signature, directed to the Collector and Town
Clerk of the Township, of Windham, requesting a
reply to each query set forth in your address, we
therefore subscribe to this our reply, and consider
ourselves answerable for whatever is advanced.
3d. We have no church or chapel in the town-
ship, but most of the houses are open for preach-
ing. There is one professional preacher of the
Presbyterian order, and there are itinerant preachers
of the Methodist order, that preach once in two
weeks, in different parts of the township, and
sometimes we have Baptist preaching.
4th. We have no medical practitioner in the
township, but we can generally get one within eight
or ten miles.
6th. We have two schools, we board the teach-
ers, and give them 121. 10s. per quarter.
6th. We have two small stores ; but we can be
3
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 315
supplied with goods from the neighbouring town-
ships.
7th. We have no taverns; but we profess to be
a hospitable people, and do entertain strangers.
8th. There are a number of good mill seats in
the township, but the parts where they lay are
unsettled, and those parts that are settled lay near
the settled parts of other townships that have mills.
9th. The general character of the soil is loam
and sand, without gravel or stone, and the surface
level in a general way, without high hills or bad
swamps, except about 1000 acres near the middle
of the township, which may in time become the
best part of the township, by ditching and clear-
ing off the timber; perhaps there is not over 200
acres that is not covered With timber in this
swamp.
10th. The timber on the high dry lands is mostly
oak, pine, and chesnut; on the low moist lands,
beech and maple, elm and ash, and almost every
kind of timber that the country affords.
lith. No minerals have as yet been discovered in
the township; there is excellent iron ore in the
adjoining township of Charlotteville.
l*2th. There is but one place in the township
where building stone has been discovered, but it
is not settled near the place, so that it is not much
used.
24th. We sow one bushel of wheat per acre
in the good season for sowing, in the late season
we sow a few quarts more; and if the ground
is in good order for sowing, it will average 15
316 LONDON DISTRICT.
bushels per acre, although there are many instances
that the yield has been from 20 to 30 bushels per
acre.
26th. We have no regular mode of farming our
land : as to particular kind of grain, very little
manure has as yet been wanted; but we find that
plaster has a good effect upon our land, of which
there is plenty in our country, within a few miles
of our township.
27th. We frequently let out land to crop, on
shares : the terms generally are for the cropper to
find team and seed, and to give his landlord one-
third ; of the winter crop, in stock in the field ;
the summer crop, if Indian corn, in the ear ; if
buck wheat, ready for the granary ; if oats, in
the sheaf; if potatoes, in the half bushel; but if
the landlord find team and seed, he takes two-
thirds, and the croppers one-third.
28th. At our first settlement, wild land sold
for 5s. per acre; at present the wild land in the un-
settled parts of the township will sell for 10s. per
acre ; but there is wild land in the settlement that
cannot be bought for 11. 5s. per acre; and some
improved farms are held at 31. 15s. per acre, where
there is not above 60 acres improved; but there
have been actual sales of farms, from ll. 5s. to 3l.
15s. per acre, according to the improvement made
on them.
29th. There is not less than 57,000 acres of
wild land now in the township for sale.
30th. In laying out the township into 200 acre
lots, government has reserved five public roads
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 317
from north to south, and fourteen from east lo west,
each one chain in width, so that every 200 acre
lot touches two of these roads, and every fifth lot
touches three of them.
Statute labour is done on them as far as the set-
tlement extends, and if it were settled, there soon
would be good roads throughout the township,
by statute labour alone.
31st. In our most candid opinion there is nothing
wanting, but the filling up with industrious men,
men of property, monied men, men of enterprise,
speculative men with capital, to make our town-
ship, our county, our district, one of the best
countries for farming in all British America; and,
lastly, could a liberal system of emigration be set
on foot, and men of enterprise, skill, and capital,
be induced to come among us, they would find
a high rate of interest and substantial security.
Windham, December 4th, 1817.
(Signed)
GABRIEL COLLOW, JONATHAN AXFORD,
JOHN TISDALE, JOSEPH AXFORD,
JOHN ROBINS, BENJAMIN HOWELL,
A, COWELL, ABRAHAM YOUNGS,
SAMUEL WOOD, JOHN BRAY,
DAVID HUNTER, SAMUEL HORTON,
BENJAMIN YOUNG, ASA COLLVER,
SAMUEL FISHER, WILLIAM DELL,
PHILIP FORCE, SEN. PHILIP FORCE, JUN.
JABEZ COLLVER, WILLIAM FORCE.
PHILIP BUTLER.
318 LONDON DISTRICT.
TOWNSEND.
Dec. 6, 1817.
A Meeting having been recommended by the Ma-
gistrates of this Division, to consider of Mr.
Robert Gourlays Address, published in the Upper
Canada Gazette of the SQth of October last, and
reply to his Queries :
WE, the inhabitants (freeholders of the township
of Townsend), have this day assembled at the
house of Job Lodor, of the aforesaid township,
and Morris Sovereene has been unanimously called
to the chair, and the following answers to the
queries have been adopted ; the Chairman is re-
quested to sign the same in the name of the
meeting, and transmit it to the above magistrates,
to be forwarded to Mr. Robert Gourlay.
9th. The soil is of a good quality, producing
wheat, rye, Indian corn, oats, buckwheat, peas, and
potatoes in abundance. The surface of the earth is
level and well watered.
10th. The timber is sugar maple, beech, oak,
pine, bass wood, elm, butternut, white ash, hickory,
and chestnut.
llth. Limestone abounds here, and is the prin-
cipal stone made use of. There is one medicinal
spring of considerable note. There has not been
any quarries of free stone discovered as yet.
15th. The price of blacksmith's work is 7fd. per
Ib. for making all kinds of farming utensils, spikes,
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 319
17th. The price of mowing grass for hay is 5s.
an acre, for cradling and binding wheat, 6s. 3d. an
acre.
18th. The cost of clearing and fencing an acre of
timbered land is 61. 5s. ; of plains, 21. 10s. an acre.
25th. Pastures are good ; an ox, of four years
old, will weigh 700lb. by having a summer's run ;
In timbered land, after the timber is cleared off,
the seed is harrowed in ; but on the plains it is
first ploughed.
26th. Manure is used for wheat and corn.
27th. When land is let on shares, the owner re-
ceives one-third of the produce.
28th. Farms, say one-fourth cleared, with a log
house and barn, will fetch 11. 5s. an acre.
29th. There are about 20,000 acres of land now
for sale.
30th. The roads are good.
31st. One great reason why this township is
not more settled, is that a great part of the unsettled
land was granted in large quantities to gentlemen,
many of them residing in England and elsewhere,
who do not wish to dispose of it. Another is the
vast number of crown and clergy reserves, many of
them situated in the very place, where, if they
would be exchanged or sold, there might be a
handsome village erected in a short time ; and an-
other is the want of cash, to make improvements
with.
(Signed)
MORRIS SOVEREENE, Chairman.
320 LONDON DISTRICT.
WALPOLE AND RAINHAM.
Dec. 19, 1817.
A Meeting having been recommended by the Ma*
gistrates of this Division to consider of Mr.
Robert Gourlay's Address, published in the
Upper Canada Gazette, of the 30th of October
last, and to reply to his Queries :
WE, the inhabitant householders of the town-
ships of Walpole and Rainham, have this day
assembled at the house of Abraham Hoover, of the
aforesaid township, Mr. Abraham Hoover being
unanimously called to the chair, the following
Answers to the Queries have been adopted, and
the chairman is requested to sign the same in
the name of the meeting, and transmit to the
above Magistrates to be forwarded to Mr. Robert
Gourlay.
9th. The soil is chiefly clay, with a rich surface.
10th. It abounds with most kinds of timber.
The most abounding is oak.
llth. No ore has as yet been discovered. There
are three sulphur springs.
12th. Plenty of limestone can be had at the
quarry for 10s. per toise.
17th. Three shillings and ninepence per day is
allowed for cutting grass for hay ; and the price of
reaping and cradling wheat per day is equal to the
price of a bushel of wheat.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 321
25th. Here the pasture is a mixture of clover
and Timothy. Seven pounds of butter can be
made per week with one cow, and ten of cheese.
2b'th. The usual course of crops are, first, wheat,
then Indian corn, or any other grain : and manure
is chiefly use'd tbr^Indian corn, and potatoes.
27th. Considerable quantities of land are let on
shares, for which the landlord receives one-third.
29th. Upwards of thirty thousand acres of land
may now be purchased.
30th. Roads generally bad— can be made good
with a reasonable expence. The principal water
conveyance is lake Erie.
3 1 st. It is the opinion of this meeting, that the
improvement of their township is much retarded
by large tracts of land having been granted to persons
not residing in the country, and which still remain
unsettled, and that if such tracts of land were placed
in a situation to be settled, the taxes regularly paid,
and the roads properly worked, it would contribute
materially to the improvement of the townships
and province in general.
(Signed)
ABRAHAM HOOVER, Chairman.
LONDON DISTRICT.
WOODHOUSE.
December 9th, 1817.
A Meeting having been recommended by the Ma-
gistrates of this Division, to consider of and re-
ply to certain Queries contained in Mr. Robert
Gourlay's Address, published in the Upper Ca-
nada Gazette of the 30th October last,
WE, the inhabitant freeholders of the aforesaid
township of Woodhouse, have this day assembled at
the house of Mr. Wm. Culver, and after having una-
nimously chosen the said William Culver chairman,
and John Tinbroock secretary, to this meeting, and
taken the said Queries into consideration, have
formed and adopted the following Replies, to be
signed by the chairman, and transmitted to the
magistrates, to be forwarded to Mr. Gourlay.
8th. There are two carding machines, and wool
is carded at 7|d. per pound.
9th. The surface is level ; the soil varies in dif-
ferent parts of the township : part is clay and part
a mixture of clay and sand.
10th. It abounds with almost all kinds of timber.
That part which is plains is generally white oak.
llth. Discoveries have been made of iron ore;
but no thorough search has been made, to ascertain
the quantity. There is one medicinal or sulphur
spring.
12th. Plenty of lime-stone can be had at 25s. by
the toise at the quarry.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 323
25th. The pastures are clover and Timothy.
Seven pounds of butter can be made in a week
with one cow, and 10 pounds of cheese.
26th. The ordinary course of cropping is, first,
wheat, then Indian corn, or any other grain ; and
manure is used for Indian corn and potatoes.
27th. Land is let on shares, for which the land-
lord receives one-third.
29th. Upwards of 10,000 acres of land may be
now purchased.
30th. The roads are generally good, but can be
much improved at a moderate expense. The prin^
cipal water conveyance is lake Erie.
31st. It is the opinion of this meeting, that the
improvement of this township is much retarded by
large tracts of land having been granted to persons
not residing in the country, and which still remain
unsettled ; and that, if such tracts of land were
placed in a situation to be settled, the taxes regu-
larly paid, and the roads properly worked or im-
proved, it would contribute most materially to the
improvement not only of the township, but of the
province in general.
(Signed) WM. CULVER,
Chairman to the Meeting.
CHARLOTTEVILLE.
December 13th, 1817.
Pursuant to Notice from the Magistrates of the Di~
vision^ a Number of the Farmers and Other
Y 2
324 LONDON DISTRICT.
sident Land Oioners of the Township, have this
day met at the Court-House, to consider of and
reply to the Queries, put by Mr. G our lay, relative
to the Agricultural State of the Province, pub-
lished in the Upper Canada Gazette of the 30th
of October last. The Rev. Daniel Freeman in
the Chair.
THE queries being regularly put by the chairman,
the following answers may be considered as the
sense of the meeting, on the points to which they
refer.
5th. The district public school, and four com-
mon schools ; the medium rate of tuition about
12s. 6d.
9th. Sand and loam intermixed with clay, the
surface level.
10th. Timber in the order most abounding; oak,
pine, chestnut, maple, walnut, hickory, ash, beech,
and white wood.
llth. Iron ore in abundance (observations on
the ore, &c. will be made by the enterprising indi-
vidual, who is now erecting a forge in the town-
ship*) ; some limestone ; no plaster of Paris, one
* This individual being applied to, wrote me the following
letter.
Potter's Creek, Dec. 4th, 1817.
" SIR,
" You desired me to give you every information in my
power, of the probability, or certainty, of making iron in this
part of the Province, so as to be beneficial to the manufacturer
and the public. I will state to you what is for, and what against.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 325
remarkable spring near Big creek, resembling in
taste the Harrowgate waters.
In favour of Iron Works, is the high price of iron, and plenty of
timber for coal: every thing but these is against the first begin-
ner. The bog ore is scattered over the whole country ; but, I do
not know any one bed of ore that will exceed 120 tons. I spent
three months in examining the country for ore, and I calculate
that it will take all the ore I found, within 20 miles of this place,
to supply a small furnace for seven years ; but I believe conside-
rable quantities, within that space, are not yet found. No rock
ore has yet been found in this part of the Province; and if there is
-any, it must be at a considerable depth from the surface of the
ground, and will be difficult to find, as the strata lie horizontal.
Another thing against iron works, is that it will require many ex-
periments before we can know the best method of working the
ore ; and there is not any stone in this part of the Province, that
will stand the fire, and, I Relieve, it will be best if it comes from
three different places in the United States. I want five or six
pieces of cast iron, each 30 cwt. ; these will come to an enormous
expence. I intended to ask government to give or lend me five
or six disabled .cannon for this. I asked government to pay the
passage of five or six families, from England, to work in the fur-
nace. This could not be granted, and therefore I wquld not ask
for the cannon. Another thing against me is, that there is not a
man in the country, that I know of, capable of working in the
furnace. But the greatest difficulty I have to overcome is, iron-
men, as we call them, are the very worst sort of men to manage,
colliers not excepted. Not one of a hundred of them but will
take -every advantage of his master, in his power. If I have just
the number of hands for the work, every one of them will know
that I cannot do without every one of them; therefore, every one
of them will be my master: anxiety and trouble will be the con-
sequence: and if I keep more hands than are necessary, so as to
have it in my power to turn those away who will not do right,
this will be expensive. But, after all, if the ore is as good as I
expect, I hope to reduce the price of iron very considerably.
£26 LONDON DISTRICT.
12th. Few building stone ; no quarries.
14th. No lime has been burnt for sale.
15th. Journeymen blacksmiths are hired at 61.
5s. per month ; masons 10s. and carpenters 7s. 6d.
per day: the ploughs in common use will cost from
51. to 61. ; a good axe 12s 6d. ; shoeing a horse,
(four shoes) 10s. ; for working iron into implements
of husbandry, 7|d. per pound.
18th. Five acres of heavy timbered land, may be
cleared and fenced for about 25l. The same quan-
tity of light timbered or plain land, may be cleared
for about 121. and occasionally for less.
25th. The increase of weight, &c. cannot be de-
termined with precision.
26th. No regular rotation of cropping has hither-
to been observed. Manure is seldom used, except
for Indian corn and potatoes.
The place where I am is a reserved lot. Governor Gore has
promised encouragement to the works, when government is satis-
fied that they will answer a good purpose. If Governor Gore
does not return to this country, and what he promised should be
refused me, iron works will be at an end with me, and at this
place ; but, I shall not ask for the promise, until the inhabitants
of the country will be my bondsmen, for the benefits arising from
the iron works. When I saw you, I offered a considerable sum
of money to take them off my hands : this I repeat; not but I be-
lieve they will answer, but the trouble will be more than equal to
any profit from them. Those who begin iron works after me, in
this country, will start many thousand dollars a-head of me: every
thing they want, except stone, will be had here ; the best method
of working the ore will be known, and men will be learned to
work it.
" I am, Sir, your obedient servant,
"JoHN MASON."
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 327
27th. Land is frequently let on shares, the owner
of the land receiving one-third of the crop, for
the use of the land.
28th. About the first settlement of the township,
land sold for f*s. per acre ; but will now average
about 11. A farm of 200 acres of land, with a
log house and barn, with 50 acres cleared and
fenced, and a small orchard of bearing trees, might
be purchased for about 7001. and occasionally less.
^9th. The quantity for sale, several thousand
acres.
30th. Public roads, good and improvable at
small expence.
31st. It is the opinion of this meeting, that large
tracts of land, owned by non-residents, retard
the settlement of the township, and that wholesome
settlers, artificers, labourers, and capital^ would
contribute most effectually to improve this town-
ship, and the province generally.
Signed, in name of the meeting, by
DANIEL FREEMAN, Chairman.
WALSINGHAM.
To MR. ROBERT GOURLAY.
Dec. 5th, 1817.
SIR,
IN compliance with your request, we,
the inhabitant householders of the township of
Walsingham, have convened ourselves, for the pur-
2
328 LONDON DISTRICT.
pose of answering certain queries, which appeared
in your Address of October last, which are as
follows :
3d. No churches ; but make use occasionally of
our school houses for that purpose. No profes-
sional preachers; but are frequently visited by
different dissenting ministers.
9th. The three or four front Concessions, of
superior quality, equal to any in the province.
The remainder of a lighter soil. The township
tolerably well watered.
10th. Pine, oak, ash, beech, sugar maple, bass-
wood, black walnut, hickory, butternut, elm, with
different other sorts.
llth. No minerals of any description have as
yet been discovered.
12th. None.
18th. Five acres of wood land may be cleared
and fenced from 151. to 201. ; all expence accruing,
to be borne by the party performing the labour.
25th. Pasture excellent; butter and cheese sells
from 7|d. to Is. 3d.
26th. Cropping on new land not practised;
manure necessary for Indian corn and potatoes.
27th. Land is usually let on shares for one half,
provided the proprietor furnish seed and team.
29th. Half of the township supposed to be for
sale.
30th. Public roads in a very bad state, and
capable of great improvement, at a moderate
expence: only one stream capable of boat naviga-.
tion.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS.
329
31st. What, in our opinion, retards the improve-
ment of our township, is that large bodies of land
are owned by different gentlemen who do not
occupy it. As to the province in general, we are
of opinion that it is owing to our remoteness from
a foreign market, and the great ex pence of trans-
portation, occasioned in a great measure from the
difficulty of the water communication with the
Lower Province.
(Signed)
H. WEBSTER, Collector, HENRY SMITH,
MICHAEL TROVER, PAUL DRESTIN, SEN.
JOHN KILLMASTER,
ANTHONY PIKE,
JEREMIAH WOLFEN,
FRED. BAUMWART,
TOBIAS LAMAN,
JACOB COPE,
HENRY BECKER.
JAMES Me. CALL,
JOHN BECKER,
JOHN DUTCH,
SAMUEL, BROWN,
ABRAHAM SMITH,
CORNWALL, ELLIS,
PAUL DRESTIN, JUN.
MIDDLETOK
SIR,
Dec. 8th, 1817.
HAVING seen your Address in the Upper
Canada Gazette of the 30th October, 1817 — We,
the undersigned, unanimously agree with you in sen-
timent, that the local situation of this province has
never been fully made known either to government
330 JLONDON DISTRICT.
or the British farmer; we likewise are of opinion,
that your Queries annexed to your Address, being
answered in a simple, but correct manner, will,
when published in England, give a fair opportunity
to every individual to judge for himself. We, the
inhabitant landholders for the township of Middle-
ton, having, at a general meeting held at the house of
John Coltman, Esq. unanimously called John
Coltman, Esq. to the chair, and cordially agreed
to the following answers :
9th. The soil is of a rich loam, and the surface
generally level.
10th. The timber, ash, maple, basswood, beech,
black walnut, butternut, hickory, cherry, white
pine, oak of different kinds, chestnut. The above
timber generally stands in equal proportions.
llth. Iron ore in abundance.
12th. None.
14th. No lime burnt for sale.
15th. Blacksmith, being found with shop tools,
and coal, wages at 10s. per day.
26th. First sown with wheat, and laid down to
grass for three years, then summer fallowed, and
sown with wheat, without manure.
27th. If the landlord furnish team and seed,
the tenant receives half the crop. If the tenant
furnish team and seed, the landlord receives one
third.
28th. No wild lands for sale, as the whole of the
township of Middleton and Howton is reserved by
government, except Talbot street.
29th. A log-house built, and ten acres cleared
on a 200 acre lot, is now selling at 2501.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS.
331
30th. Talbot street leads through the township,
running nearly east and west, about 12 miles from
lake Erie.
31st. We think that the townships of Honghton
and Middleton, being reserved, hinders the im-
provement of this part of the country, as there is
but one road through the said towns, and one by-
path.
(Signed)
JOHN COLTMAN, Chairman.
JAMES BROWN,
Town Clerk.
1 o I &TXJ
GEORGE COLTMAN,
JAMES COLTMAN,
JOSEPH WOOD,
JOHN YOUNG,
ELIJAH HARRIS,
HEZEKIAH CART-
WRIGHT,
MICHAEL CULP,
DAVID ADAIR,
om n
JAMES MOREHOUSE,
JOSHUA BROWN,
SAMUEL BROWN,
BRENTEN BROWN,
ESEKIAH OVERBAUG,
JOSEPH ADAIR,
PETER NEWKIRK,
MOSES BROWN,
AB. BROWN.
NORWICH.
At a Town Meeting ^ held in the Township of Nor-
wich the 6th of the 1st Month, 1818, according to
Law , for choosing Town Officers. The Proposals
by R. Gourlay for publishing a Statistical Ac-
count of the Province of Upper Canada, in or-
332 LONDON DISTRICT.
der to exhibit correct Ideas respecting the En-
couragement this fine Country holds out to such
Europeans as have a mind to emigrate in quest
of a Country rich in natural Resources, but
poor in point of Population, in order to occupy
and improve the natural advantages thereof,
to their individual interest and happiness of
their Families.
His proposals being read, the meeting made
choice of Peter Lossing, to draft a schedule of the
beginning and progress of several of the first ad-
venturers into the wilderness*, about 12 miles from
any settlements, and also appointed John Throck-
morton, William Curtis, Elias Moore, and Peter
M'Lees, to assist the afore-mentioned Peter Lossing
in preparing correct answers to the several Queries
suggested by the said R. Gourlay, affording ma-
terials for giving an accurate description of Norwich
in an agricultural point of view, and to affix their
signatures to the statement forwarded to the said
R. Gourlay.
2d. A few families arrived in 1808, but very
little progress till 1811.
3d. Two houses appropriated for public worship
of the Society of Friends, three approved ministers
of that society.
4th. One regular bred practitioner of physic and
surgery.
5th. Three schools ; common fees per quarter
151. f board and lodging found.
* See Supplement to this Report.
+ This must mean the schoolmaster's salary. — R. G.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 333
6th. No lack of houses of entertainment.
7th. No licensed taverns, dramshops, nor dis-
tilleries.
8th. One store, one grist mill, two others build-
ing, three saw mills ; price of boards at the saw
mill, pine 11. 11s. 3d. per thousand square feet;
no carding machine, but one wanted.
9th. Soil generally a sandy loam, interspersed
with small intervals of clay ; in its wild state cover-
ed with a rich body of black vegetable mould.
10th. Timber — pine, beech, maple, bass, elm,
oak, ash, chestnut, butternut, hickory, poplar, iron
wood, plum, thorn, hazle, grape, crab apple, &c.
A large proportion of rock maple, from which the
inhabitants supply themselves with sugar, molasses,
and vinegar, and the pine generally much in a body
by itself.
llth. Some indications of iron ore of the bog
kind; salt licks, as they are here called; plaster of
Paris or gypsum, chalybeate and sulphurous
springs, the springs generally clear, wholesome
water, somewhat impregnated with lime.
12th. Building stones scarce ; some indications
of plenty of limestone in the bottoms of small
brooks, but not much opened.
13th. Bricks of a good quality have been made
and sold at 11. 5s. per thousand ; indications of clay
suitable for pottery and stone ware, and paints.
14th. Lime has been burnt on log heaps; sells
for about 8d. per bushel.
15th. Carpenter's wages by the day, about 6s. 3d. ;
mason's 7s. (5d. ; blacksmith's work about Is. 3d.
per Ib. iron included.
834 1X)NDON DISTRICT.
25th. Timothy and clover is most common, and
grows luxuriantly: an ox four years old gains
about one-third in a summer's run ; they become
excellent beef in a summer's run in the woods;
a good cow gives, per day, four gallons of milk,
producing good butter and cheese : price of butter
9d. and cheese 7fd. per pound.
26th. First crop has generally been wheat, though
excellent Indian corn : oats and potatoes have been
raised on new land by harrowing only : a crop of
wheat has been succeeded by corn, oats and pota-
toes, and vice versa, and done well.
27th. Very little done on cropping, on shares.
28th. About 6s. 3d. was at our commencement
the price of land, and has progressively risen to 13s.
per acre : one sale lately made of an improvement
100 acres, 35 cleared, frame barn, log house, good
fence, price 3751.
29th. About 25,000 acres of wild land yet for
sale.
30th. Roads still bad, but capable of much im-
provement, at a moderate expence : water convey-
ance contemplated as attain -hie, by cutting and
clearing drift wood out of the bed waters of the
Otter creek, from near the centre of Norwich, into
lake Erie, which is about 80 miles ; it is clothed with
pine timber, and many good mill seats.
31st. Land held in fee by distnnt owners in large
quantities, not responsible tor defraying any charges
for opening roads, while the wh<»l<-' burden falls on
actual settlers, is a hiiiderance to the growth of the
settlement.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 335
An increase of population, with an adequate ca-
pital, the improvement of morals, the reduction of
distilleries and dram shops, to the encouragement
of good inns, the improvement of roads and build-
ing of bridges, removing of obstructions in boatable
waters, are prominent objects to promote the pros-
perity of this country.
(Signed)
PETER LOSSING. ELI AS MOORE.
JOHN THROCKMORTON. PETER M*LEES.
WILLIAM CURTIS.
SUPPLEMENT.
The following Schedule may serve as a sample of
the general body of settlers, according to the time
they have become residents of this township.
Several thousand bushels of wheat to spare this
season, beyond a supply of bread for the inhabitants.
There has been no disease of an epidemic nature
since the settlement commenced: three deaths of
adults and three children only. Diseases of an
inflammatory, pulmonic and rheumatic nature are
the most frequent, and the instances rare even of
these. The inhabitants consist of the Society of
Friends, some Methodists, a few Baptists, and
some, as to profession, Nothingarians, but, generally
speaking, encouragers of good moral, sober, and
industrious habits.
'•'Ji'^
336
STATISTICAL
Shewing the Progress of Improvement
1
a
|
8*
1
y
i.
i
•
0
l
'.
j
I
Names of Residents.
PB
II
.2
.2
j
?
of Crop
rsl Season
econd Sea
I
t
'<&
i
i
•S
'»
•
<£
1
0
•s*
I
£>
i
I
1
F
•
i
£
a
4
a
"3
i
*
Peter Lossing.
Dutchess
County,
Spring of
1811
Wife and
5 childr.
300
14
20
23
25
28
30
3
State of
N. York
Michael Stover.
Ditto
lateinthe
Do. and 9
season.
children
1000
4
11
13
16
13
15
1
Fred. Stover.
Ditto
Ditto
Do and 6
children
1000
4
10
10
10
18
18
3
Adam Stover.
Ditto
Ditto
Do. and 5
Sears Mold.
Ditto
1811
children j 1000
Do. ar>d 6 reserve
0
5
9
18
18
14
0
children
100
8
12
14
16
18
20
0
Sam. Cornwell.
Ditto
Ditto
Do. and 9
children
200
0
16
20
22
23
25
1
Elias Moore.
Nova
Ditto
Do. and 5
Scotia
children
400
0 24
24
28
30
44
2
John Syple.
Albany
Street,
Ditto
Do. and 5
children
200
0
18
18
20
22
30
0
N. York
Sol. Sackrider.
Dutchess
Ditto
Do. ind5
County,
children
200
0 20
25
26
26
27
2
Stare of
|
N. York
Peter De Long.
D.tto
Ditto
Do. and 5
children
4CO
7
25
24
28
28
>0
3
Peter M'Lees.
Ditto
Ditto
Do. and 7
children
400
0
4
5
5
6
8
1
11 Farmers
89 Persons.
II wives, 67
children.
5,20i)
37
165 185214
2--
261
16
It is proper for me to remark that the above settlers, being
of the people called Quakers, had the advantage of remaining
at peace on their farms during the invasion of the province.
Quakers, Menonists, and Tunkers, have all this blessed pri-
vilege, and are allowed to pay money in lieu of military ser-
vice. They had the further advantage of the high price of
produce occasioned by the war; which many others could
reap no advantage from, while their farms lay neglected.
TABLE,
337
in Norwich Township, London District.
•
1
*®
ti
£
£
£
The first work of all, on
_c
si
€
r
si
g"
1
o
1
\
11
:n
of Wheat
Crop.
of Corn, <
il Pease.
•s
I
settling, is the erec-
tion of a temporary
log house.
No. of Oj
No. of C<
•s*
o
z
O
TB
<;
*,
No. of C
•3
0
•A
•s
e
"A
SSTf
m
1
f
w
JS
$
New Buildings.
1
•f
0
3
2
2
8
18
25
80
300
300 1000
200
Frame Barn and Timber
House.
2
2
2
4
2
3
2
2
7
7
24
11
39
18
60
70
400
250
350
300
100
200
120
350
Frame Barn.
Frame Barn and House.
2
2
3
0
6
15
26
80
100
120
60
24
Log House and Barn.
0
2
2
2
4
6
16
50
200
80
100
0
Frame Barn.
2
2
2
4
4
6
25
55
200
220
300
'62
Log House and Barn.
2
1
4
6
9
14
20
100
500
150
200
300
Two Frame Barns.
2
2
3
0
6
14
13
40
2CO
200
200
0
Frame Barn.
4
4
2
4
7
7
20
60
200
200
200
50
Log House and* Barn.
2
4
2
3
7
8
24
100
150
300
150
100
Frame Barn.
9
2
1
2
8
11
19
40
250
100
320
36
Frame B?rn.
20
2N
26
27
73
1341245 735
2750
23202830 124<2| 12 barns and 5 bouses.
This Table, in conjunction with the others of the same
kind, which I have introduced, must exhibit to the British
farmer a wonderful contrast to his own gains for the last five
years ; and give him a full idea of what capital and industry
combined may effect in Upper Canada. There is not one
settler in Canada out of twenty who has not to struggle with
poverty for the first three or four years. This overcome, all is
well — nay, very well with the industrious man. — R. G.
338 LONDON DISTRICT.
BAYHAM.
SIR,
HAVING seen your Address in the Upper
Canada Gazette, of the 30th of October last, we,
the undersigned landholders of the township of
Bayham, agree with you in sentiment, that the
situation of this province has not been fully made
known to the British farmer. We are likewise of
opinion, that the Queries annexed to your Address,
being answered in a correct manner, when pub-*
lished in England, will give a fair opportunity to
every individual to judge for himself. We have
held a general meeting at the house of John Lodor,
in Bayham, having called Joseph Bowes to the
chair, unanimously agreed to the following answers :
3d. No churches nor settled ministers, but fre-
quently visited by the Methodist and Baptist.
9th. The soil is of a rich loam, and the surface
generally level.
10th. The timber, maple, ash, basswood, butter-
nut, black walnut, hickory, cherry, white pine of a
superior quality, and oak of different kinds, chest-
nut; the above timber generally stands in equal
proportions.
llth. Limestone and iron ore in abundance.
12th. None.
14th. No lime burnt for sale.
loth. Blacksmiths, being found with shop tools
and coal, wages 10s. per day.
3
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 339
19th. Price of sheep, ewes, 15s. ; and wethers,
ll. weighing, when fatted, from 20 to 251b. per
quarter.
25th. Artificial grasses are little known here;
small quantities of red clover have been sown, cut
twice a season ; two tons the first, and one ton the
second cutting ; the pasture, the small white clover,
with Timothy an rl spear grass, which comes naturally
after the first crop. An ox, turned in poor con-
dition, the first of May, to grass, will, with a sum-
mer's run, by the first of December, be good beef,
and have IGOlb. of rough tallow. Cows in this
country do not afford as much milk as in some
parts of England, but more butter and cheese in
proportion ; one cow will make lOlb. of butter
per week ; and a dairy of 20 cows will make 401b.
of cheese per day, from the first of May, to the last
of September.
26th. First sown with wheat, and laid down to
grass for three years ; then ploughed and sown
again, without manure.
27th. If the landlord furnish team and seed, he
receives one-half the crop. If the tenant furnishes
the above, the landlord receives one-third.
29th. A log house built, and 10 acres cleared on
a two hundred acre lot, is now selling for 2501.
Some small quantities of land for sale, at 12s. (xi.
per acre, and large quantities not located.
30th. Talbot street leads through the township,
about 7 miles from the lake. Ottawa river, leading
through the centre of the township, and is navi-
gable for boats of 20 tons, for forty miles from the
mouth. z 2
340 LONDON DISTRICT.
31st. We think that the very great number of
reserve lots, retard the settlement or improvement
of the township more than any thing else.
(Signed) JOSEPH BOWES, Chairman.
WILLIAM HAZEN, Town Clerk.
JOHN HAZEN. JAMES RUSSELL.
SAMUEL EDISON. WILLIAM RAYMOND.
SAMUEL SHWARTS. THOMAS EDISON.
WILLIAM HATT. JOSEPH MERILL.
EZEKIEL FORSYTH. JOHN EDISON.
JOHN LODOR. M. EDISON.
JOHN SAXTON, Sen. JAMES WILSON.
WILLIAM SAXTON. DENNIS DAWLIR.
JOHN SAXTON, Jun. ALEXANDER SAXTON.
MOSES EDISON. PETER WEAVER.
MALAHIDE.
At a Meeting of all the Inhabitants of the Town-
ship of Malahide, assembled at the House of
Mr. William Summers^ on Talbot Road, on the
10th of December, 1817, for the Purpose of ex-
amining the Queries proposed by Robert Gourlay,
Esq. to the Resident Land Owners of Upper
Canada^ in his Address of October last. Wil-
liam Summers was chosenChairman^ and Simeon
Davies, Secretary , upon which Occasion the fol-
lowing were adopted as Answers to the said
Queries.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 341
9th. Soil excellent, and very well watered. The
surface nearly level.
10th. Maple, beech, elm, white and red oak,
white and black ash, basswood and ironwood.
llth. No minerals discovered; some quarries of
limestone.
12th. Few building stones have been found.
13th. No bricks have been made in this town-
ship.
14th. No lime has been burnt; but there are
some quarries of limestone.
15th. Blacksmiths generally charge as much for
their work as the iron costs ; carpenters and ma-
sons have done but little good work as yet. The
inhabitants as yet live mostly in round log houses.
26th. First crop wheat ; second ditto, rye and
grass seed : when the sod is broken up, we summer
fallow and sow with wheat again.
27th. Land has not been let on shares to any
extent, almost every inhabitant being owner of the
tract he occupies.
29th. Little for sale ; quantity not ascertained.
30th. The roads are not very good ; but the
annual labour required from the settlers by law,
improves them fast. No canals are necessary,
lake Erie being contiguously situated.
31st. The lots reserved for the crown and clergy,
constitute two-sevenths of the township, and pre*
vent the settlement from becoming compact. —
Their being disposed of by sale to actual settlers,
and applied to provincial purposes, might be the
means of increasing the wealth and respectability
1
342 CONDON DISTRICT.
of the province; and would doubtless, in its
operation, contribute largely to the wealth and im-
provement of every individual township.
By order of the Meeting,
(Signed) WILLIAM SUMMERS, Chairman.
SIMEON DA VIES, Secretary.
YARMOUTH.
At a Meeting of the Settlers of the Township of
Yarmouth, assembled at the Inn of Justice Wilcox,
on Talbot Road, on the 10th Day of December,
1817, for the purpose of considering the Address
of Robert Gourlry, Esq. of October last, to the
Land Owners of Upper Canada, Captain Daniel
Hapelje was chosen Chairman, and Adjutant
James Nevills Secretary, when the following
Answers to his Queries were adopted.
8th. Rate for sawing: 3s. 6d. per 100 feet.
9th. Soil black sandy loam ; surface level ; r§-
markably well watered with living springs, rivule'ts,
&c.
10th. Timber, generally beech and maple, inter-
spersed with black walnut, white walnut, oak, ash,
cherry, and many other kinds of timber peculiar to
the climate.
llth. Limestone in many places. Many mine-
ral springs; their qualities not ascertained.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 843
12th. No quarries discovered.
14th. No lime burned.
15th. Blacksmith's wages at the same rate per
pound as the cost of the iron : making an axe,
smith find the materials, 12s. (3d.; and other piece
work in proportion. Carpenter's wages !0s. per
day : mason's 10s. per day, or 11. 5s. per thousand
for laying brick.
25th. Common pasture, Timothy, red and white
clover. A four year old steer taken from the yard
in the spring, is allowed to gain one-fifth in the
summer's run, either in the meadow or forest; the
forest pasture excellent for causing cows to produce
large quantities of milk.
26th. Ordinary course of cropping upon new
land — the first crop wheat; second crop rye: ma-
nure not required.
27th. Lands let upon shares draw one-third.
29th. Lands for sale supposed 30,000 acres.
30th. Public roads very good, considering the in-
fancy of the settlement ; capable of much improve-
ment, with a moderate expence.
3 1st. The lands granted to persons not resident at
present in the province, or living at the seat of go-
vernment, or in other towns of the province, and
the crown and clergy reserves intervening so often
amongst our farms, have a tendency to retard the im-
provement of our settlement very materially. What,
in our opinion also, that further retards the growth
of our settlement, is an improper system of emigra-
tion ; and we are confident that the introduction of
344 JLONDON DISTRICT.
men of capital would much tend to the improve-
ment of the same.
By order of the Meeting,
(Signed) DANIEL RAPELJE, Chairman.
JAMES NEVILLS, Secretary.
SOUTHWOLD.
At a Meeting of all the Inhabitants of the Township
ofSouthwold, assembled at the House of Mr. Alex-
ander Ross, of Talbot Road, in the said Township,
on the 10th Day of December , in the Year of our
Lord, 1817,ybr the Purpose of considering of the
Address of Robert Gourlay, Esq. of October last,
to the resident Land Owners of Upper Canada,
Mahlon Burwell, of Southwold aforesaid, Esq.
was chosen Chairman, and Mr. Alexander Ross,
of the same Place aforesaid, Farmer, was chosen
Secretary, and the following were adopted as
Answers to his Queries.
9th, The soil is excellent. Marly in places,
and diversified with sandy loam and clay alter-
nately. The surface in general level ; and there are
some ancient fortifications still to be seen.
10th. Maple, elm, beech, walnut, butternut, red
and white oak, hickory, black and white ash,
cherry, basswood, and iron wood.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 345
llth. No minerals have been discovered..
12th. No building stones; but several quarries
of limestone have been discovered.
13th. Very few bricks have been made.
34th. No lirne has been burned; but several
quarries of limestone have been discovered.
loth. There are but two blacksmiths, who
charge high. But little carpenters' and masons'
|jp
work has been done ; the inhabitants as yet living
principally in round log-houses, which they con-
struct themselves.
25th. We as yet have only made use of pasture
in the woods, in a state of nature, which is very
good. Milk very good, as also the quality of dairy
produce.
26th. The first crop is wheat harrowed in, the
second rye, mixed with hay seed ; when the grass
is broken up, the ground is summer fallowed, and
sown with wheat again. No manure has been
strewed on the ground yet.
27th. No land has been let amongst us, every
man being himself a landlord.
28th. We have good timber for building ; but
for want of saw mills it is difficult to get lumber;
nearly one tenth part of the settled land in the
township is cleared.
29th. We know of but little offered for sale,
almost every man being content with his situation.
30th. Roads are tolerable, and the statute labour
improves them fast. Our settlement is near the
borders of lake Erie, which is a good water commu-
nication toward Montreal.
346 LONDON DISTRICT.
31st. Nothing retards our settlement more than
the lands of absentees, and the crown and clergy re-
serves being interspersed amongst our farms ; and
nothing could contribute more to the improvement
of our settlement than their being sold to active
and industrious persons. We are confident that
the province in general would be much benefited
by the sale of the lands of absentees, and the crown
and clergy reserves to actual settlers.
By order of the meeting,
(Signed)
M. BURWELL, Chairman.
ALEXANDER Ross,
Secretary.
DUNWICH.
At a Meeting of all the Inhabitants of the Township
of Dunwich, assembled at the House of Mr.
Singleton Gardiner, on Talbot Road, in the said
Township, the llth day of December, 1817, to
4, deliberate upon the Propriety of answering sun-
dry Queries, proposed in an Address of October
last, to the Resident Land-owners of Upper Ca-
nada, by Robert Gourlay, Esq. Captain Gil*
man Wilson of said Township, was chosen Chair-
man, and Mr. Singleton Gardiner, of the same
Place, was chosen Secretary,
UPON which occasion, the following Answers
to his Queries, were unanimously adopted.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 347
5>d. The first settlement was made by the Hon.
Thomas Talbot, of Port Talbot, Esq. in the year
1803, at which time there was not a white in-
habitant within sixty miles on the east, and
seventy-five miles on the west. Colonel Talbot
encountered many difficulties, with a zeal which
will for ever do honour to his memory ; by his
unremitting solicitations and exertions, he at
length prevailed on the provincial executive go-
vernment, to lay the country between Port Talbot
and Long Point, open for actual settlement, which
they only did partially, in the year 1809 arid 10.
There are supposed to be about 500 souls in the
township, and about 1OO inhabited houses.
8th, One mill only. Colonel Talbot's mills,
which were excellent, were burnt by the enemy
in time of the late war, and are not rebuilt.
9th. Soil in general excellent and marly, and
the surface level and well watered.
10th. Maple, beech, black walnut, butternut,
cherry, white and black ash, white and red oak,
white pine, elm, basswood, and iron wood.
llth. No minerals have been discovered; there
are some quarries of limestone,
12th. But few building stones have been dis-^
covered.
13th. But few bricks have been made ; the earth
however is good for that purpose.
14th. Vrery little lime has been burnt.
15th. No blacksmith.
16th. Few women servants and but little spin-
ning as yet; good ground for flax.
348 LONDON DISTRICT.
23d. First crop wheat, harrowed in ; 2d do. rye and
Timothy, with clover; when the sod is broken up,
we summer fallow and sow with wheat again ;
no manure has as yet been applied.
25th. Our only pasture is in a state of nature,
and is good. An ox will gain 200 pounds by a
summer's run; milk and dairy produce good ; but-
ter, Is.: no cheese.
27th. No land is let; the most humble indi-
viduals here are proprietors of the soil.
29th. But little for sale ; the quantity not ascer-
tained.
30th. Roads are indifferent; but the statute
labour is fast improving them. Our township is
bounded on the north shore of lake Erie, which
affords a good water communication towards
Montreal.
31st. The crown and clergy reserves intervening
so frequently amongst our farms, impedes the im-
provement of our township ; and we are of opinion,
that the growth and prosperity of the province in
general is impeded by them. These being re-
moved, or disposed of to active arid industrious
settlers, would, in our opinion, be a blessing to the
province.
By order of the Meeting,
(Signed)
GILMAN WILSON, Chairman.
SINGLETON GARDINER, Secretary.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 349
ALDBOROUGH.
•
At a Meeting of sundry Inhabitants of the Town-
ship of Aldborough, assembled at the House of
Mr. Archibald Gillies, of Talbot Road, in said
Township, on the llth Day of December, 1817,
for the Purpose of agreeing upon Answers to cer-
tain Queries, proposed to the Resident Land
Owners of Upper Canada, in an Address of
Robert Gourlay, Esq. of October last, Captain
Leslie Paterson was chosen Chairman, and Mr.
Archibald Gillies ', Secretary, when the following
were adopted as Answers to the said Queries.
2d. Some time after Colonel Talbot settled at
Port Talbot.
9th. Soil excellent, marly and sandy alternately,
and generally level and well watered.
10th. Maple, beech, elm, basswood, black wal-
nut, chestnut, hickory, white and black ash.
llth. No minerals have been discovered. Some
limestone about the creeks and shore of the lake.
12th. No building stone; but famous rocks for
millstones are discovered in many places.
13th. No bricks have been made.
14th. No lime has yet been burnt.
15th. No blacksmiths, masons, or carpenters,
who work at their professions.
25th. Natural pasture good. Not ascertained
what an ox will gain by a summer's run. Milk
and butter excellent, but none for sale.
350 LONDON DISTRICT*
26th. The first crop is wheat, the second rye of
grass. When the grass is ploughed up, the com-
mon course is to summer fallow the ground and
sow it with wheat.
27th. No land has been let upon shares.
29th. Not much for sale ; we do not know the
quantity.
30th. The public roads are tolerable, and are
improving ; the labour required by law to be per-
formed annually by each settler tends to improve
the roads fast. We live contiguous to the Thames
and lake Erie.
The following letter, written to me by a person who once farmed in
England, and is now a magistrate and landholder in Upper
Canada, may not be without interest to some Readers.
SIR, Walsingham, Dec. 9, 1817.
INCLOSED you have the Report of Bayham, Middleton, and
Howton, which are correct. Please pardon me for troubling1 you with
the following account, any part of which you may think worth notice,
you are at liberty to publish in England. I rented a farm of 240 acres
of land in the North Riding1 of Yorkshire, sold my stock and farming
Utensils, which was all the fortune T had, amounting to about 500
guineas; I concluded this small sum would go a little way in pro-
viding for my family in any business that I could take hold of in that
country. I consulted my friend General Hale what was best for me
to do ; he advised me to come to Canada, and gave me a letter to
Governor Simcoe. I immediately approved of his plan, and left Eng-
land in 1793, with my wife and eight children ; landed at Philadelphia
late in the summer; spent my time in Yew York until June, 1794.
I could not get a passage early in the spring, on account of an em-
bargo. 1 arrived at Niagara the 28th of July, 1791, and was kindly
received by the Governor; by this time I had spent the principal
part of the money I had brought with me ; for out of 500, I had left
upwards of 300 guineas in notes, to be collected by a relation who
was in business, but was shortly bankrupt after I left England, and I
never received a shilling. By this time I became acquainted with the
late Hon. Robert Hamilton, to whom I made my situation known,
who instantly became my warm friend and supporter. From him I
rented a farm for seven years, for which I paid him 100 dollars per
annum. He lent me money to buy 20 cows, which cost 500 dollars.
I had but one dollar left when I began farming ; my meat, grain for
bread, seed for the land, farming utensils, &c. were all procured
by me on a promise of payment in September, which amounted
to about 500 dollars. I began making cheese the first of May,
1795, which succeeded beyond my expectation ; I seldom had in my
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 351
31st. The lands owned by non-residents in the
Concessions, near the river Thames, and the re-
served lots, seem to retard the growth of our town-
ship, as well as the province at large. A tax
upon the lands of absentees might induce them
to sell to persons who would become actual set-
tlers, which would facilitate the improvement of
our settlement; and if his Majesty's government
would dispose of the reserved lands throughout
the province, we are of opinion, it would much
contribute to improve the same.
By order of the Meeting,
(Signed) LESLIE PATERSON, Chairman.
ARCHIBALD GILLIES, Secretary.
dairy room any cheese, that was more than three months old ; sold
all I m cle for seven years, at f dot. per Ib. except one ton which I sold
in 1802, tor| dol. per ll>. The field is still open: the price and market
as good as ever. A dairy of 20 cows, well attended, will make the
following amount, viz.
Dob.
Cheese through the summer season 1200
Loose butter throughout the year 100
Twenty calves reared to the last November 100
Fifteen pigs fed with whey 150
Total profit one year 1550
Grass fed heef here, far exceeds our expectation the first sight we
have of this country, but cattle will fat as well, and tallow better than
in many parts of England ; this 1 was assured by some of my country-
men ; 1 did not credit the reporl ; determined to know by experience,
I turned two lean oxen into a small field two acres and a half, the 10th
day of April; they had noo<her pasture nor feed of any kind ; they
were killed the last day of November; the four quarters of the first
weighed 820 ib. and had 125 Ib. tallow, the four quarters of the second
weighed 78o Ib. and had 115 Ib. tallow; J then winter fatted four
weiiids, which weiv worth in the fall four dols. per head ; they made
me ib| dols per head ; winter feeding of cattle or sheep may be prac-
tised here whh success, and will leave larg^e profits ; the principal ob-
jection to winter feeding is the want of labour ; turnips can be raised
here win. nut any manure, or even ploughing. Clear off new land,
sow the ste«: .;.-t l«t<er part of June, or the beginning of July, and you
geta<rop oi turnips without hoeing or any more trouble, and o; as
good a quality as I ever saw.
Sir, your most obedient, &c.
ROB. GOURLAY, Esq. JOHN BACKHOUSE.
352
STATISTICAL
Shewing the Progress of Improvement on
Names of Settlers in order
as they took Possession,
and commenced Improve-
ment.
Original
Profession
in Business
with Num.
her of
Children at
home un-
der four-
teen Years.
Of what
Country a
Native.
Date of
taking
Posses-
sion.
Stock, first Year of
Settlement.
No. of
Cows.
No. of
Oxen.
John Barber.
Farmer.
Wife & 4
U. States.
1811
2
2
Children.
Freeman Waters.
Ditto.
Do. & 1
Ditto.
1814
2
...
Do.
James Best.*
Ditto.
Do. &4
Ditto.
1813
2
...
Do.
Chas. Wei Is Waters.
Ditto.
Do. &2
Ditto.
1814
...
...
Do.
James Watson
Ditto.
Do.&7
Ditto.
1812
2
2
Do.
David Watson.*
Ditto.
Do. &4
Ditto.
1813
2
...
Do.
Richard Williams.
Weaver.
Do. &7
England.
1815
...
...
Do.
Andrew Spring.
Farmer.
Do. &6
U. States.
1814
1
2
Do.
David Wallace.
Weaver.
Do. &8
Scotland.
1813
...
...
Do.
Timothy Neal.
Sailor.
Ireland.
1811
B urges Swisher.
Farmer.
Wife"& 5
U. States.
18JL
!!.
!.!
Children.
George Clunes.
Brick
L. Canad.
1816
maker.
Charles Benedict.
Farmer.
...
U. States.
1815
Joseph Vanlese.
Ditto.
Wife'fc 3
U. States.
1813
...
Children.
Richard Barret.
Brick
...
Ireland.
1813
...
...
maker.
James Burwell,
Farmer.
Wife & 9
Colonies.
1812
2
2
U. E.*
Children.
Neil M'Nair.
Ditto.
do. & 2 do
Ireland.
1811
2
2
John Burwell, U. E.
Ditto.
...
J.Canad.
1813
Benjamin Johnson.
Ditto.
Wife'& 5
U. States.
1812
...
..
Children.
John Robins.
Saddler.
do.&3do
Ditto.
1815
...
...
Samuel M'Iniyre.
Farmer.
Do. &1
Nova
1812
...
...
Do.
Scotia.
Daniel M'Intyre.
Ditto.
Do. & 3
Ditto.
1812
...
...
Do.
James M'Intyre.
Ditto.
Do. &6
Ditto.
1815
...
...
Do.
John Philpot.
Ditto.
Do. &5
Ditto.
1812
...
...
*
Do.
Samuel Harris.
Ditto.
Do. &2
Ditto.
1816
...
...
Do.
Total Stock at first, 3 horses I 15 | 10
The above Table was filled up and attested by M. Burwell, Esq. M. P. 13th Dec.
1817, who remarked that all the persons, whose names are mentioned as in posses-
sion of their lands in the years 1812-1813, or early in 1SI4, had to perform a great
deal of militia service in time of the late war with the United States, and were
plundered by marauding1 parties of the enemy, who made several eruptions to
Port Talbot and its vicinity, in the year 1814. The progress therefore which they
have made in the improvement of their farms, and increase of their stock, is much
less than it would have been had the war not existed. Each settler has 200 acres
of land. Those marked U. E. got their land for nothing from government. Others
paid fees amounting to £'J. 7s. 6d. each.
TABLE, 353
Talbot Road, in the London District.
Stock at the present Time.^0^,^**^8^
Total Nui
!>er of Acre
cleared up
to the pre
sent Time.
Esti mated
Worth of the
Farm, with its
Improvements
at < his Time.
No. o
Cows.
No. o
0«n
No.
Horg
Vo. of Fir.t Sec
Slicep Year.) Yea
Third Fourtt
Year. Year
i rim
Yta
Sixt
Yea
5
3
2
20
5
I
14
20
8
13
...
60
«£550
3
4
2
...
S
12
10
10
...
...
40
. 450
3
2
1
...
2
3
7
8
...
...
20
340
S
...
...
...
1
4
5
...
...
...
10
300
5
2
2
12
4
5
5
4
14
...
32
410
4
2
1
...
3
4
5
7
3
...
22
355
2
1
4
5
9
295
6
2
...
4
7
6
...
...
...
17
335
2
2
...
...
1
2
3
4
...
..
10
290
4
2
5
4
6
6
12
8
40
450
3
2
...
...
1
3
3
3
5
8
23
365
1
4
4
270
2
2
7
10
300
2
2
...
!!!
1
2
3
2
...
8
290
4
2
...
...
2
4
5
11
...
22
360
4
2
2
5
5
5
7
8
...
30
400
4
2
...
16
7
3
6
6
10
11
43
465
2
1
1
2
3
4
...
10
300
4
"2
...
...
1
2
4
5
...
...
12
310
4
6
12
310
2
...
1
3
4
7
5
4
10
...
30
400
4
2
1
9
9
7
10
6
8
...
40
450
3
7
8
15
325
4
2
. ..
15
4
10
8
9
9
...
40
450
2
2
...
...
15
15
325
81 i 39 i 14 | 75 Total Stock, 1817.
* Those marked with an asterisk, had each a horse at first settlement. The
original Table contained 25 more names; but the above are quite enough for th«
pwpoae of tills publication.
A A
354 STATISTICAL
Composed of Extracts from the Township
WAGES OF
Names of
Townships.
When Settled.
-Inhabited Houses.
K
No of i_ liur. i> '>r
Places of Worship.
No. of Preachers.
No. of Medical
Practitioners.
No. of Schools.
Fees per Quarter.
No. of Stores.
" No. of T iverns.
•No. of Grist Mills.
- No. of Saw Mills.
11
£
Prices of Lime per
bushel.
1
ii
HI
t
Carpenters p.day.
1L
C
Common Labour-
ers per Annum.
Delaware
1795
IS
80
1
0
0
1
s.d.
1
I T
1 '
,*. d.
*. d.
Per
[M.
«. d. ». it.
£. 8.
£*•
Westmin-
ster
1811
107
4**
oU
0
1
..
1
2
1
1 ,300
6 5
,10.0' 10 (0
& 10
Dorches-
ter ....
0 0
0
0
1
0 0
-
Oxford ..
1795
76
630
0
IB.
0
4
10 0
3
i
2
3 30 0
1 3
6 5
16
10 P>
0 0
Blenheim,
&c.
1797
31
160
0
0
1
1
15 0
0
°
2
2 32 6
1 A
7 10
1 6
126
.{5 0
Burford A
Per
its Gore
1793
100
560
0
2 M.
1
ft
12 6
9
V
* 25 0
1 3
R
10 0
-v
35 0
Windham
1794
48
293
0
1 P.
o
t
..
2
0 0
O1 25 0 1 X
6 a
63 63
'5 0
Towiisend
1796
120
716
1 p.
IB.
°l *
13 6
2
0
1
3 30 0
1 h
.;
89
8 9
13 10
Walpole
*
and
Rainham .
1793
47
241;
0
IMen.
o
0
...
0
0
1
1 25 0, 1 r
5 0
5050
A
Wood-
i ;
house ..
1794
100
711
1M.
1 M.
1
3
12 6
3
3
7 25 o
1 3
7 6
76
7 6
25 0
Charlotte-
J*.
ville ..
1793
132
900
IB.
JIB!
i °
ft
13 G
7
3
3 30 0
••
6 5
7 6
10 0
27 10
PrD.
Walsing-
». d.
ham ..
1791
50
337
0
0
0
1
10 0
0 1
3
2 300
••
6 3
6 a
6 3
• -
Middle-
ton
1815
30
..
0
0
0
0
..
01
0
0 30 0
-
10 0
6 3
.-
97 10
Norwich .
1808
...
2Q
3Q
3
..
1
3 250
..
6 3
7 6
30 0
Bayham .
1813
60
..
«
0
0
2
10 0
2 1
1
1 25 0
..
10 0
7 6
..
30 0
Malahide.
1811
150
775
0
0
0
13 6
1
3
1
0 ..
..
..
..
27 10
Yarmouth
1811
75
400
0
0
2
..
1
2
•2
1 35 0
..
10 0
10 C
25 0
South-
wold ..
1811
18<
1)00
0
0 0
3
12 6
2
0
0 ..
..
..
..
..
30 0
Dunwicb .
1803
100
500
0
1
13 6
1
1
0 ..
..
..
..
30 0
Aldbo-
1
rough . .
••
90
400
0
0
0
1
100
1
1 0
0 .,
••
-•
"
••
33 0
Totals.
.-
1514
7917
G
14
640
142 6
2*
292GS
"3 397 t
9 -2
6£ 5s
1063
94 9
510 10
Averag-
ed by
-•
19
17
21
21
21
*1
12
:<l
21 21 '
21 14
8
6 &4
14
11
17
Averages
79
465
.. 28 4
' 11
- 6 A
6113
7 7
8 7
30 0 7
In the fifth and sixth columns B. stands for Baptist; M. for Methodist ;
TABLE.
Reports of the London District.
355
WAGE* OF
PRICES OF LIVE STOCK.
Common Labour-l
ers per Winter
month. 1
Common Labour-
ers per Summer
raonlh.
Common Labourers
per Bay in Harvest.
k
f 5
Costofflearina: and
fencing five Acres
of wild Land.
i
A Cow.
!
I
Quantity of Wool
per Sheep.
Price of Wool per Ib.
Produce of wheat in
bushels, per acrv.
An U.\ will gain in
a Summers run.
Price of Butter,
per Ib.
Price of Cheese,
per Ib.
1 Price of Land per
Acre, at first.
1 Price of Laud per
Acre now.
L. s.
L. s.
L. t.
L. t. ». d.
rt.
*. d.
Ib.
. d. s.d.
«. d.
s. d.
3 10
3 16
i> 0
6 S
26 0
15 0
6 5
15 0
84
3 0
22
i
1 0
5 <)
-M 0
3 10
3 15
5 0
5 0
25 0
16 fi
6 6
10 0
15 0
3
2 6
26
i
0 11
074
2 6
126
3 10
3 15
5 0
6 3
18 15
15 0
5 0
8 15
12 6
3
2 6
37
-
074
••
126
2 0
3 15
5 0
5 0
18 15
25 0
6 6
10 0
12 6
3
2 6
200
0 10
074
5 0
133
2 5
3 7
* 05 0
18 15
5 S
8 2 13 6 3
2 6
..
136
..
..
5 0
100
3 0
3 15
6 35 0
31 5
20 0
5 0
8 15
10 0
3
3 6
1&
-•
1 0
074
1 3
7 a
|£l
2 0
3 0
5 05 0
15 0
15 0
5 0
6 5
12 0
S
2 fi
15
150
1 0
1 0
5 0
15 0
2 0
3 0
5 0
5 0
12 10
15 0
5 0
6 5
12 6
3
2 6
15
150
1 0
1 0
5 0
80 0
2 0
S 5
••
5 0
25 0
17 10
5 10
7 10
126
3
2 9
17
"
1 3
1 3
& 0
20 0
2 0
3 2
5 0
5 0
17 10
IS 15
5 12
6 18
126
34
2 8
*
..
-.
..
5 0
17 6
1 18
3 "
5 0
5 0
18 2
16 5
5 12
9 8
15 0
4
2 6
SO
1 3
1 3
2 10
3 16
5 0
5 0
22 10
15 0
6 5
7 10
12 6
84
2 0 86
0 9
074
8 3
13 0
2 0
4 0
5 05 0
18 15
16 6
5 0
9 6
17 6
2 S 30
..
1 3
1 3
5 0
12 6
2 0
3 (1
....
25 0
15 0
5 0
-
12 6
SJ
3 0 27
150
"
5 0
27 6
2 0
3 0
5 0
5 0
25 0
15 0
5 0
••
12 G
3
3 6
25
i
1 S
1 3
5 0
200
2 5
3 0
..
..
25 0
15 0
5 0
10 0
12 6
24
2 6
25
175
1 0
..
5 0
25 0
2 0
3 1C
6 0
--
30 0
15 0
5 0
9 0
V2 6
3
2 6
27
200
1 0
"
5 0
30 0
2 0
3 10
5 0
-
27 10
16 0
5 10
.. :
13 0
4
"'
30
•-
-
-
S.O
ti s
61 11
81 'a
72 G
389 7
292 4
97 7
117 14
335
67:
44 5
399
1160
14 6
11 1
75 0
see
19
18
16
14
18
18
IS
14
18
IS
17
17
7
14
12
16
17
2 <
3 8 4
t5 1
5 2
91 12 7
16 4 fi
5 8 «
S S
13 C
^
*"?
234
165
104
Mi
4 SI
21 6
1
P. for Presbyterian ; Men. for Menonist; and Q. for Quaker.
356 LONDON DISTRICT.
SUMMARY OF POPULATION, &C.
From the foregoing Table it ap-
pears that there are in 17 townships 7917 people ;
being 465 for each township. The
houses inhabited by these people
amount to lo 14, which gives five and
a little more than one-fourth* for
each house or family.
Midclleton and Bayham have 90
houses, and their people, not being
reported, may be reckoned by the
above average of five and a fourth to a
house uf . *i 472
Norwich, whereof neither the
number of houses nor people are
given, may be reckoned to contain
the average number of people to a
township U : . iJpl 465
The only townships of the London
district not regularly reported are
Burford, London, Dereham, and
Hough ton. The first contained in
1817 only one family; the second
two families; the third one family;
* Five and a fourth to a family is too little for Upper Canada ;
but at the beginning of a settlement there are many families with
men but lately married at their head. Seven will perhaps be near
the true average in old settled districts : but the reader will set-
how it turns out in Niagara district.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 357
and in the report of Micldleton the
settlers of Houghton are said lo be
six — say altogether 10 families, reck-
oned at five and a little more than a
fourth . . . . . 53
Total population of the
London district ' ;<P* 8907
There are no Indian settlements in this district,
although parties of the Six Nations, Missasagas,
&c. may be seen occasionally wandering about and
pitching their wigwams as it suits their temporary
convenience for hunting, &c.
It appears, that for the above population there
are but six places of worship and 14 resident
preachers: viz. three Baptists, six Methodists, one
Presbyterian, one Menonist, and three Quakers.
There are six medical practitioners, 40 schools,
and 29 taverns.
What retards improvement is stated in 14 re-
ports to be the great quantity of land granted to
non-residents: in nine reports to be the crown,
clergy, and other reserves : in three reports, the
want of settlers, with capital, enterprise, &c. ;
in one report, remoteness from market, and^the
difficulty of the water communication with the
lower province.
358 GORE DISTRICT.
•;i^ ^ JJ
TRAFALGAR.
MR. ROBERT GOURLAY.
AT a meeting of the inhabitants of our
township, holden on the 27th November, 1817,
at the house of Daniel Munn, innkeeper, the fol-
lowing answers were framed in reply to your
queries, as they appeared to us in the Niagara
Spectator.
9th. The surface of the land is level ; the top soil
is clay, mixed with loam and a little gravel ; under
that is clay, mostly of a red colour.
10th. Our timber consists of oak, two kinds, white
and red ; pine, very large, of the white kind; beech ;
maple, two kinds ; sugar maple, and soft maple ;
ash, two kinds, the black or swamp ash, and white
ash ; basswood ; hickory ; elm ; white and red ;
hemlock ; ironwood ; chestnut ; some birch ; quaking
asp ; some cedar; some butternut, and a little tama-
rask : the timber mostly large, and stands thick on
the land.
llth. Respecting minerals, there is a considerable
quantity of the mineral of iron, called bog ore;
also a few salt springs of an inferior kind.
12th. Building stones, none, excepting a few,
which may be found over the land of a very indif-
ferent kind.
15th. Blacksmiths most generally work by the
pound ; that is, 7|d. per Ib. when the iron and steel
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 359
are found, and Is. 3d. when the blacksmith finds
the materials ; to this there are some exceptions,
but not many.
18th. The common custom of our township is to
cut down no more at first than the timber which
is a foot in diameter, measured about two feet and
a half from the root of the tree, and all under that
size ; and the rest they girdle and kill with the
axe. In this state it will produce nearly as good a
crop as if all were cut down, and this only costs
1L 10s. per acre ; the rest of the timber is cut down
by degrees, for fencing and for fire wood, &c.
21st. Beasts are turned out about the first of
May, and taken in about the first of December.
22d. Sleighing lasts about three months, that is,
beginning about the first of January, and ends
about the last of March. Ploughing begins about
the 20th of April.
23d. Season of sowing wheat is from the 25th
of August till the 1st of October; the time of
harvesting of said grain is from the twentieth of
July till the end of August.
25th. Respecting pasture, as the wild woods
constitute our principal pasture lands, we have
not yet made sufficient experiments to enable us
to answer your query ; but our meadow lands will
generally produce one ton per acre.
26th. The ordinary course of cropping in new
land, is wheat the first year, harrowed in, and
sometimes a crop of oats are harrowed in, in the
spring, on the stubbk ; then it is sown down with
Timothy or clover, or both together, and is used for
360 GORE DISTRICT*
meadow for three or four years, till the roots rot in
the ground, and then ploughed up, after which
buckwheat or pease are generally sown first, and
then wheat, perhaps the same season ; and then
pease or buckwheat, or oats, and then wheat, and
so on alternately ; little or no manure is used, but
corn land and orchards require it most.
27th. Land is frequently let on shares on the
following terms: if new, the leaser finds the leasee
in team, in boarding, in farming utensils, and in
half the seed, and then receives one half the
produce. If old land, and the leasee finds every
thing, the leaser has one third of the produce. If
the leaser finds every thing, the leasee has only
one third of the produce. Enough of land can be
had on either of these ways.
28th. A farm of two hundred acres, with a log
house and barn upon it, with 40 acres, cleared in
the customary way, may be had for 37.51. If frame
buildings are upon it, a greater price ; but seldom
in proportion to the buildings.
29th. The quantity of land for sale we cannot
justly describe, but we suppose 3 or 4000 acres;
and there are but few farmers in our township, who
would not even sell their improved farms, if they
had the offer of a good price.
30th. The state of public roads at present is but
indifferent ; but they are capable of improvement
at a very moderate expence. As the face of our
country is generally level, great improvement
might be made by means of canals and locks. Re-
specting our navigation, we are situated on the
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 361
coast of lake Ontario, and thence we have the
benefit of all the adjoining waters. Besides we
have two very fine streams, called the Twelve and
Sixteen Mile Creeks ; these can be made navigable
for boats, some part of the year, four miles from the
mouth, to communicate with our mills onDundas
street. The mouth of the Sixteen, where it empties
into lake Ontario, is navigable for vessels of a con-
siderable burden, and forms a safe and commodious
harbour.
81st. The causes which retard the improvement
of our township and the province at large are
various. The first and principal cause you have
already very justly observed, that is, the want of
capital; this may perhaps be best illustrated by
facts: know then, that the greater number of our
farmers, when they first settled in the wild woods,
have little more property than a cow, a yoke of j
oxen, a log chain, and an axe; and some have
little or no property at all but their axe alone. »
The family generally consists of a man and his
wife, and a number of young children, unable to
hire hands ; the whole of the labour naturally de-
volves upon the man, and hence it is, that for six
or seven years, till such time as the roots of the
timber begin to rot in the ground, so that he can
use the plough, and until the eldest of his children
grows up to help him, his toil is incessant; four or
five acres are all that he is able to clear and sow in
a season, and that is generally put in so late, that it
produces but little ; so that the whole of his crop
will scarcely support him through the year ; but
many times he has to work out for a part of his
362 GORE DISTRICT.
bread. Clothes he must have for himself and his
family, and these must be got out of the store ;
and merchant's goods are very dear in this pro-
vince; and as he hath nothing to pay with, he is
obliged to go on credit. These in a few years soon
run up high, so that by the time he gets his farm
in such a state of improvement, as might enable
him to live comfortable, he is frequently obliged to
sell it, in order to pay off his debts. Such is the
consequence of beginning poor. But this, you will
observe, is only the gloomy side of things; for
those who are so fortunate as to weather out the
storm the first ten years, without sinking their
plantations, are generally enabled to spend the
remainder of their days in comfort. The scarcity
of labourers, and the very high price of labour, so
that the produce will scarcely pay the hands, forms
another hindrance to the improvement of our town-
ship, and the province at large. Another hindrance
is, that in many places of this province, large tracts
of land have been granted to certain individuals,
and these being generally men of fortune, are
under no necessity of selling their lands, but hold
them at so high a price, that poor people are not
able to buy them ; again, there are many of these
gentlemen gone out of the province, so that there
is no opportunity to purchase from them; so it
still remains a wilderness, and the poor people who
are settled round such tracts, have roads to make,
and every other public duty to perform, at their
own expence, which greatly enhances the value of
such land, to the great injury of the inhabitants.
1
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 363
Another hindrance respecting our township, is
that a great number of lots are reserved for the
crown and the clergy, and notwithstanding that
these lots might be rented for 21 years, for a very
small sum of money, yet the land, in this province,
has hitherto been so plenty and cheap, that no one
cares for renting land, who can have it in fee simple:
hence it is, that the greater number of them still
remain unsettled ; but when settlers become numer-
ous, this evil will soon be done away.
What, in our opinion, would most contribute
to the improvement of our township and the pro-
vince at large, would be to encourage men of pro-
perty into the country, to purchase the waste lands
of our province, which if sold even at a moderate
price, would introduce such a flow of capital into
our province, as would not only encourage a re-
spectable race of settlers of every description, to
come in and cultivate the face of the country, and
turn the wilderness into fruitful fields, but it would
also make trade arid manufactures of all kinds
flourish ; then would our province no longer re-
main poor, neglected, and unknown to the rest of
the world ; but would become a respectable colony,
not only able to support herself, but she would add
a large revenue to the British crown, and her redun-
dancies would contribute to feed the hungry, and
clothe the poor of other nations.
Sir,
WE have also seen your second address* with
your additional query, which we answer as follows :
* Owing to an opposition set up immediately after the pubii-
364 GORE DISTRICT.
. We know of none in Upper Canada, whom
we would sooner trust to publish the statistics of
our province than yourself.
We are willing therefore to trust the whole to
your own veracity, and may the highest success
crown your labours.
It is true, we have seen a parcel of heterogeneous
stuff in the Niagara Spectator pointed against your
plan, which, like the Palace of Vanity, appears to
have no foundation, and like it too shall vanish
into air; yes, into thin air, and leave not a trace
behind.
Indeed, such ill timed jargon, quite unsupported
by reason, will only serve to urge the business on
more rapidly ; and here, Sir, is a striking proof, for
it has reminded us at the end of our work of what
we should have done at the beginning, namely,
to jointly offer you our warmest thanks for the
strenuous efforts you have made, and the spirit of
benevolence you have displayed in endeavouring to
cation of my first address to the resident landholders, I con-
ferred with some magistrates as to what should be done, and it was
resolved to publish a letter, desiring the township reports to be
sent in to one of these magistrates, to be made use of by him and
the other magistrates as they thought proper; while, at the sam«
time, I put a question to the people as to their confidence in me.
The letter, after getting out of my hands, was altered, and caused
the reports to be still directed to me. In many of the reports si-
milar additions were added to the regular replies in the same way
as here quoted, together with compliments and good wishes.
These, however, I have withheld, allowing this report only to go i»
full, as a specimen,— R. G.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 365
promote the prosperity of our province, and the
happiness of our fellow subjects.
, (Signed)
JAMES M'BRIDE, J. P. AMOS BIGGER.
DANIEL MUNN. MICHAEL BUCK.
CHARLES BIGGER. TIMOTHY ROBINS.
DUNCAN M'QUEEN. JAMES THOMSON.
ABSALOM SMITH. BENJAMIN SMITH.
JAMES BIGGER. NATHANIEL CORNWAL.
JAMES HOPPER. HENRY LOUCKS.
LAWRENCE HAGER. JOSEPH SMITH.
NELSON.
To MR. ROBERT GOURLAY.
SIR,
HAVING observed in the public papers
your address to the resident land owners of Upper
Canada, we avail ourselves of the present oppor-
tunity, as a proof of our high approbation of
your plan, to communicate, with a statistic of this
township, our acknowledgment, for the interest
you take in the colonial and agricultural improve-
ment of this infant country. We flatter ourselves,
from the nature of the subject, in which public and
private interest are so nearly connected, that it will
not tail producing the desired effect. If the annex-
ed statement will be in any manner subservient to
3
866 GORE DISTRICT.
your purposes, you are at liberty to make use of the
same.
3d. Two itinerant professional Methodist prea-
chers*.
9th. The soil is generally clay, suitable for win-
ter grain and grass, gradually descending to the
south.
10th. The kinds of timber are, white oak, red oak,
white pine, maple, hickory, basswood, black and
white ash, and a small quantity of some other kinds.
12th. There are lime and freestone for building,
which may be had for 5s. per toise at the quarry.
15th. Blacksmiths commonly charge 7^d per Ib.
for working iron, which sells also for 7^d. per Ib.
21st. The ordinary time of turning out beasts
to pasture, is the first of May, and of taking them
home into the yard or stable, 1st of December.
22d. The ordinary endurance of the sleighing
season, is from the 1st of January to the 15th of
March, and the ordinary time to commence plough-
ing in the spring, is the 1st of May.
£3d. The ordinary season for sowing wheat, is
the first week in September, and of reaping it the
first week in August.
25th. One cow will produce 41b. of butter per
week during pasturing.
26th. The ordinary course of cropping on new
lands, is to sow wheat the first year ; the second,
seed it with grass ; and the fourth year, plough it up
for fallow : autumn is the time for manuring.
* I presume these may be the same noticed in Trafalgar Re-
port ; but, having doubt, I enter one Methodist preacher in the
Table for this Township,— R. G.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 367
27th. Land is let on shares to a small extent, for
which the owner receives one-third of the produce.
28th. The present price of a farm with 30 acres
improvement, 21. 10s. per acre.
29th. There are 1,500 acres of land for sale.
30th. Public roads are capable of much im-
provement, at a moderate expense ; there can be no
improvement of water conveyances by canals or
locks.
31st. The impediments to the improvement of
our township are two, many crown and clergy re-
served lots, and the want of mechanics of all kinds.
There is a large tract of wild land adjoining us,
owned by the native Indians ; if the assistance of
government could be had in procuring this land*,
and sending settlers of an enterprising disposition
upon it, it would contribute much to the improve-
ment of our situation. As it respects the province
in general, we are induced to believe, that men of
capital with a sufficient proportion of hands would
contribute to the improvement of the same.
We have the honour to be,
Sir,
Your mos, t obedient humble servants,
THOMAS ATKINSON. MOSES M<CAY.
GEORGE GRAME. NATHANIEL BELL.
WILLIAM CHISHOLM. HECTOR G. TAYLOR.
DANIEL O'REILLEY.
* It has since been purchased by government, and is now
Settling. Much of it is excellent land.— R. G.
368 GORE DISTRICT,
WELLINGTON SQUARE.
MR. ROBERT GOURLAY.
SIR,
WE, the inhabitants of Wellington Square,
being settlers on a tract of land granted to the late
Captain Brant, for his military services ; and being
also part of the township of Nelson, having met in
order to answer the questions you have stated, the
result of which we transmit to you, in hopes that
it may be some assistance towards accomplishing
the plan you have undertaken.
9th. The soil is variable ; on the front, near the
lake, it is sandy ; on the rear it inclines more to a
clay ; for about two miles from the lake it is level,
and then rises into ridges, and more uneven land.
10th. The timber consists of white pine, oak, hick-
ory, ash, sugar maple, and most kinds of hard wood.
llth. There is no kind of mineral except lime-
stone, which is in great plenty, and which is made
use of for building. There is no price set, as every
one gets what he likes by quarrying them.
16th. Women, for spinning, 7s. 6d. per week.
17th. The price of mowing grass for hay is 3s. 9d.
per day.
19th. A fat sheep in the summer season will
fetch 11. 5s.
25th. A good milch c/)w, in the course of the
summer, will produce lOOlbs. of butter, and as
much cheese.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 369
30th. Roads in general are not in a good state of
improvement, owing in part to the large proportion
of reserved lands: this compels the inhabitants to do
that much statute labour more than they would do
if the whole was settled.
In many parts of the province large tracts are
owned by private gentlemen, many of whom are non-
residents in the country : in those townships there
are but few settlers, and the roads in a bad state.
31st. The reason that the province has not im-
proved more since the first settlement is in part
owing to the inhabitants wanting the me.ans of
assisting themselves more than they were capable
of doing by manual labour ; and the damage they
sustained during the late war, has added much
to their disadvantage.
Wellington Square,
2lst November, 1817.
(Signed) JOHN BRANT,
AUGUSTUS BATES, ASAHEL DAVIS,
THOMAS GHENT, JAMES MORDEN,
RALPH MORDEN, NICHOLAS KERN.
3 EAST FLAMBORO'.
At a Meeting of a few of the Inhabitants of the,
Township of East Flamboro', held in pursuance
of a public Notice at the House of Mr. Alexan-
der Brown, 22c? November, 1817, for the Pur-
pose of taking the Address of Mr. Robert Gour-
B B
370 GORE DISTRICT.
lay into Consideration, and answering the Queries
by him proposed, at which Meeting, George
Chisholm, Jun. was chosen Chairman, and Alex-
ander Brown, Secretary.
9th. The soil is generally good.
10th. All kinds of timber, black walnutexcepted.
llth. None. 12th. Limestone in great plenty.
14th. Lime is burnt only in small quantities.
15th. Blacksmith's wages, 7|d. per Ib. for iron.
16th. Wages of common labourers, from 11. 10s.
to 41. per month.
17th. Mowing grass, and harvesting, from 3s. 6d.
to 7s. 6d. per day.
26th. On new land the first crop is wheat, and
then grass. Fruit of almost all kinds common to
this country grows here.
27th. No land is rented on shares.
28th. Cleared land sells from 21. 10s. to 71. 10s.
per acre.
29th. A great quantity of land now for sale.
30th. Roads generally good : capable of im-
provement.
31st. At the first settlement of this township,
the land was chiefly granted to gentlemen for their
military services. The situation being eligible,
they hold it at a high price, and for want of capital,
few persons are able to purchase it, which is the
reason of its remaining uncultivated.
>/Y
We are, Sir, with due respect,
Your most obedient, humble Servants,
GEO. CHISHOLM, Esa. GEO. CHISHOLM, JUN.
ALEXANDER BROWN, JOHN M'CARTJEY.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 371
WEST FLAMBORO' AND BEVERLY.
At a numerous Meeting of the Inhabitants of West
Flamboro' and Beverly, held in pursuance of a
Public Notice, at Matthews s Tavern, in West
Flamboro', on Monday the 1st of December, 1817,
for the Purpose of taking the Address of Mr.
Robert Gourlay into Consideration, and answer*
ing the Queries by him proposed. At which
Richard Hatt, Esq. was chosen Chairman, and
James Crooks, Esq. Secretary.
.
3d. No Episcopal church or public place of
worship in either township, or any resident mi-
nister, though we are sometimes visited by the
resident clergyman of Ancaster, and by Methodist
preachers regularly attended every Sunday at pri-
vate houses. The Tunkers also have divine ser-
vice regularly performed.
8th. Two carding machines, charge 6d. per Ib.
One fulling mill. One oil mill.
9th. The soil of Beverly, rich loam, and inter-
vals ; West Flamboro' the same ; both very
healthy and pleasantly diversified with hill and
dale ; are well watered with spring streams.
10th. White oak, red oak, pine, chestnut, sugar
maple, beech, basswood, elm, hickory, black wal-
nut, butternut, cedar, cherry, mulberry, plums,
and crab apple trees.
BBS
372 GORE DISTRICT.
llth. Salt springs, and indications of iron ore,
as yet but little explored. Plaster of Paris and
marl are found in these townships.
12th. Limestone abounds, and some freestone,
both of very good quality for building ; the ex-
pence of labour in quarrying being the only one.
16th. Wages of labourers from 11. 10s. to 41. 10s.
per month.
24th. We generally sow one to one and a half
bushel of wheat per acre, and get in return from
12 to 40 bushels per acre ; average crop about 16
bushels per acre.
25th. Quality of pasture, clover, and Timothy;
white clover springs up naturally after clearing.
Our young cattle and cows generally run out till
after harvest, then we put them into our folds.
26th. On new lands we generally harrow in
wheat first, then seed down with grass, or plough,
sow oats, or plant Indian corn, then pease and
wheat again ; or fallowing, sow wheat, then rye,
and a succession of spring crops. Very little land
has yet been manured, and that generally orchards,
and ground for flax and Indian corn. Our orchards
produce apples, pears, peaches, nectarines, apri-
cots, plums, and cherries. Gooseberries and
currants are the natural productions of this coun-
try. We generally cultivate our orchards in grain,
which produces us large crops ; such is the genial
nature of our climate.
27th. The ordinary mode of renting land is on
shares. Landlord furnishes lands fenced, team,
utensils, and half the seed ; for which the tenant
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 373
returns half the produce in the bushel. Tenant
feeds himself: or landlord furnishes only land
fenced ; gets one-third in the bushel ; tenant find-
ing team, seed, utensils, and feeds himself: lands
are always to be obtained on these terms.
28th. Wild lands at first settling, sold for 101. per
lot of 200 acres; and now sells from 10s. to ll.
10s. and 21. per acre. Cleared land sells from 21.
to 121. 10s. per acre, according to its situation and
advantages. A farm house may be built of logs
for 251. ; frame house, 731. to 2501. ; a good frame
barn, 1251.
29th. Much land is for sale in these townships,
and if a good price is offered, scarcely any farmer
will refuse to sell his improved farm.
30th. Our roads are tolerably good, and are im-
proving ; they are yet capable of much improve-
ment. We consider the water communication of
these townships not much improvable by canalling,
the ground being too high. We have at present a
very flourishing village, increasing fast, in West
Flamboro', on the head waters of Lake Ontario.
31st. The remainder of these townships, that is,
the uncultivated lots, are in the hands of persons not
resident in the province, or in the hands of such
residents in Canada, who keep them — asking high
prices : depending on the industry of the inhabi-
tant settlers for making roads, and improving their
own lands, by which means the unsettled lots be-
come valuable enough in time to bring the high
prices demanded for them. With respect to the
province in general, could some other mode be de-
374 GORE DISTRICT.
vised, to dispose of the vacant lands of the crown,
or part of them, rather by selling them, than grant-
ing them in the present mode, it would, no doubt,
not only bring capital into Canada, to make pur-
chases, but it would also beget a further interest
in. the purchasers, to bring in useful settlers, as
well those with property, as those wanted for
clearing the lands, and handicraft tradesmen. It
would settle the country with a yeomanry, who
in times requiring soldiers, would no doubt be
found such as were wanted ; besides procuring a
fund to the crown for its lands, which at present
appear to produce little or nothing. Under such
policy, we think Canada would immediately shew
another face; and would, we presume, improve
full as fast as we have seen the country opposite
to us in the United States; our natural advantages
being infinitely superior to those enjoyed by the
citizens of that country.
RICHARD HATT, Chairman.
JAMES CROOKS, Secretary.
Names of persons present.
WILLIAM HARE, J. P. JOHN KEAGY, JUN.
JAMES DURAND, ANDW. VAN EVERY,
JACOB COCHENOUR, BARNARD EMERY,
JAMES M'BRYDE, J. P. MOSES CORNELL,
CONRADT COPE, GAB. CORNELL,
HENRY COPE, WM. SHACKELTON,
WM. NEVILLS, BENJAMIN MARKLE,
ROSWELL MATHEWS, SAMUEL CORNELL.
ANDREW JONES, H. LYONS,
JACOB NEVILLS, JOHN HEAGY.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 375
NICHOL.
'
To ROBERT GOURLAY, ESQ.
Niagara Falls, Nov. 18th, 1817,
SIR,
HAVING seen in the Upper Canada
Gazette your address to the resident land-owners of
the province, and it appearing to us that should
your views of publishing a Statistical Account of
Upper Canada be carried into effect, it will be of
much benefit not only to the province, but also to
our mother country, we therefore take upon our-
selves to answer your queries as far as relates to
the township of Nichol, in the district of Gore,
we being the proprietors of that township.
This township is a part of the tract of land
given by Governor-General Sir Frederick Haldi-
mand in 1784 to the Six Nation Indians who had
adhered to the British standard in the former Ame-
rican war, as a residence, and in compensation for
the lands they had left in the United States. This
tract commences at the mouth of the Grand river,
where it empties into lake Erie, and extends about
ninety miles up stream, being twelve miles deep,
that is six miles on each side of the river. This
extensive tract of country was originally intended
as a residence for the Indians and their posterity,
as also to serve them for hunting ground — for
which purposes it answered very well for many
years ; and until the advancement of the settle-
376 GORE DISTRICT.
ments of white people on both sides of this tract
drove away and destroyed the game in such a
measure, that the Indians could no longer subsist
themselves by their usual mode of hunting ; in
consequence of which the government permitted
the Indians to dispose of a certain part of this land
to individuals at as good a price as could begot for
it; the principal sum being placed in the hands of
trustees, who annually pay the interest to the
Indians. About 356,000 acres were accordingly
sold in different parcels, the first part of which is
at the east side of the mouth of the river, and is
about 53,000 acres, called the township of Wed-
derburn and Canbury. The next part, a parcel of
about 94,000 acres, about 60 miles from the mouth
of the river, now called the township of Dumfries,
which is 12 miles square, extending six miles of
each side of the river. The next parcel is of
about the same size, and immediately joining the
last, now called the township of Waterloo ; and
adjoining this last, and immediately above, is a tract
of about 86,000 acres, now called the township of
Woolwich ; adjoining to, and immediately above, is
the township of Nichol, extending six miles on each
side of the river by nearly four miles up stream, con-
taining about 29,000 acres ; is situated in about
34 miles in a north-west course from the west end
of lake Ontario, and is about 4-4 miles distant
from the west end of that lake by the road which
is at present travelled. This township was granted
to Thomas Clark, one of the subscribers by deed
from government, under the great seal of the pro-
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 377
vince, in April, 1807, in which no settlement has
as yet been attempted, and this owing to the pro-
prietors, from their other avocations, not having
had time to attend to it. They are, however, now
taking steps to have it laid out into 200 acre lots,
in the course of the ensuing winter, the outside
lines being only as yet marked out.
The soil of this township is of an excellent
quality, as the size and growth of the trees indi-
cate. It is a deep, black, sandy loam, with abund-
ance of spring brooks in all directions. There
are no hills or other very high land ; the surface
in general level, with a gentle declivity towards
the river on both sides. The prevalent timber is
maple, elm, beech, white ash, basswood, black
ash, and cherry. The bottoms of the brooks are
gravel; but no building stones have been noticed,
excepting at the river, which in the whole of its
course through this township is on a limestone
rock. The land of this township originally cost
4s. per acre, and is expected, so soon as laid out
into farm lots, to sell for from two to four dollars,
according to situations. To this township there is
now a good road from the head of lake Ontario
through the townships of Flamboro* West, Dum-
fries, Waterloo, and part of Woolwich, to within
seven miles of its lowest boundary, which seven
miles of road is intended to be made this ensuing
winter. At about half a mile above the lower
boundary line of this township are the falls of the
Grand river, of about 40 feet high, where the
river is about 60 yards wide, and navigable for
1
378 GORE DISTRICT.
boats or rafts from below the falls to the mouth of
the river. These falls are admirably situated for
mills or any other machinery, to which purposes it
is expected they will soon be applied.
Having already said what has hitherto retarded
the improvement of this township, we come now
to say what, in our opinion, retards the settlement
of the province in general, and for which we see
many reasons; the first of which is the want of
emigration, which has hitherto been but small;
and this, diminished by the difficulties which emi-
grants from the United Kingdom are in general
subject to after their arrival at Quebec, a distance
of 500 miles from hence, where, and at Montreal,
and at other places on their way hither, there is no
agent or person to whom they can apply for ad-
vice or assistance in getting to York in this pro-
vince, where the land-granting department sits.
The next reason is, that when such of the emi-
grants as get as far as York, where also there is no
agent, there is much delay and difficulty in getting
a grant of any land, owing to which causes many
get dissatisfied even before they reach this pro-
vince, and go off to the United States, where they
purchase land, if able, at from five to ten dollars
per acre, and get a good title without difficulty.
Those emigrants who persevere and dance attend-
ance at York for a length of time, at last get a
grant of 100 acres, upon paying £ sterling,
in some remote and insulated situation, many miles
from any Christian inhabitant, where he is desti-
tute of society, roads, mills, and every other com-
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 370
fort, which to a European is worse than Botany
Bay: in consequence of which, many of them
never settle upon their locations, which, by the
bye, are too small for a farm, so much of the land
having to remain uncultivated for supplying fuel,
fencing, and building timber; and many cannot
undergo the fatigue of finding them out. Most of
those who hunt out their lots being too poor to
purchase near a settlement, find themselves so im-
mersed in woods and wilds, that they often get dis-
couraged, and leave their habitations, if able, hav-
ing little prospect of ever getting neighbours to
assist them in making roads, bridges, mills, and
other public works, owing to 50 much of the
adjoining lands being reserved for the crown,
clergy, and other purposes, and by large tracts
being given to non-residents for favour or past
services, who have no idea of settling the land,
but of disposing of it when the labour of a few
adjoining individuals may have made it more
valuable ; and we have further to remark as our
opinion, that this province even in its oldest
settled townships is by far too thinly peopled,
owing to these reserves and grants to non-residents ;
and this was severely felt during the late war,
when provisions and transport could not be had for
the king's troops ; besides this, our neighbours the
Americans were perfectly aware of the situation
of the country, having furnished many of their
regiments who invaded the province with maps
of the different townships, specifying the reserved
and vacant lots which were promised to the Ameri-
880 GORE DISTRICT.
can soldiery as a bounty, if they conquered the
country.
We next think that it would tend much to the
improvement of this province, were all the town-
ships already surveyed to be filled up with actual
settlers previous to any more remote lands being
laid out for location, which would form a compact
and strong colony, at present there not being one-
twentieth part of the land settled that is laid out
into townships.
We have further to remark, that we think it
would be of much benefit to the province, as also
a relief to the mother country, were all the un-
granted lands in the already surveyed townships
sold at a moderate price per acre ; when emigrants
and others could select soil, situation, and neigh-
bours, to their mind, for which they would far
rather pay than go to the wilderness by lottery :
the fund thereby raised could be well applied to
the improvement of the internal navigation of the
province and other public purposes, as also help
to relieve many of the claimants who suffered
losses during the late war.
It is a general idea, that a less sum than was
expended in building ships of war on lake Onta-
rio, during the late war, would have made a
canal to have brought sloops of war and small
frigates into that lake from the sea.
Many well-informed people of this province
|hink that the door being shut at the end of the late
war against emigration hither from the United
States was of much injury to the improvement
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 381
of the country. On this head we decline giving
our opinion ; but think that many valuable set-
tlers would have been obtained from the United
States, had these been admitted under proper re-
strictions.
This province, if properly peopled, under good
laws well administered, will defend itself against
any invasion, and its trade be of much benefit to
Great Britain : if settled in its present thin and
scattered state, its trade can be of little conse-
quence, and the country must fall a prey to its first
invader.
May your laudable exertions, in traversing this
province to collect information, be the means of
making this country better known in Britain, and
of procuring from thence some of its redundant
population, so much wanted in this colony.
We have the honour to be,
Sir,
Your very obedient Servants,
THOMAS CLARK,
ROBERT ADDISON,
For Self and ROBERT NICHOL, Esq.
'
382 GORE DISTRICT.
WATERLOO.
By the undersigned Gentlemen, respectable Inhabi-
tants of said Township, at a Meeting convened for
that Purpose.
3d. No churches, two Tunkers and Menonists
preachers (the people are principally Germans).
8th. Carding wool 6|d. per pound.
9th. Sand, loam, and clay, good and productive;
generally level and well watered.
10th. Pine, oak, sugar maple, beech, cherry,
cypress, &c.
llth. None discovered, but many signs of iron ;
limestone in great quantities. Signs of plaster ;
indications of salt springs : no remarkable springs.
12th. Building stones in great plenty : no price.
20th. Township produces 3000 pounds of wool
per annum ; 2s. 6d. per pound.
26th. The general rule is, if a man clears wild
land, he has the first year's produce. Cropping on
cultivated land, a man gets half, and finds himself.
27th. The same as above ; extent very great.
30th. Roads very bad, but capable of great im-
provement: will require great expence.
3/. What hinders the improvement of the township,
is, bad roads, want of men and money. Respect-
ing water conveyance ; the beautiful Grand river
running nearly through the middle of the township,
affords a most fascinating prospect to adventure.
Capitalists might hereafter form a canal, the whole
extent of the river.
JOSEPH LOCKWOOD. JACOB ERB.
JAMES VAN EVERY. ABRAHAM ERB,
And seven others.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 883
DUMFRIES.
SIR,
INCLOSED I send you an account of the pro-
gress of the settlement of the township of Dum-
fries*, with answers to a few of your queries. The
remainder, no doubt, will be answered by persons
longer resident in the country, who are more ade-
quate to the task.
9th. The soil in general is loam ; very little clay
to be found in the township.
10th. The kinds of timber are, oak, hard maple,
beech, basswood, elm, and cherry in some parts of
the township. Others are chestnut, cedar, and pine,
with considerable of the before mentioned kinds
intermixed. Limestone in abundance.
1 1th. One bed of plaster has been discovered in,
Dumfries, and proves to be the best kind for cement-
ing; also for manure, none is superior. One ton,
when ground, will make from 26 to 28 bushels ; one
bushel is sufficient for an acre. It is known by
experience, that on clover, wheat, oats, or pota-
toes, it will bring -f- more than the land without
plaster; it can be had for 30s. per ton at the quarry.
31st. As respects the progress of the settlement of
the country, in my opinion many things combine
to retard it. In the first place, there is certain
quantities of land in each township, called crown
and clergy reserves, nearly one-fourth. Combined
with that, there are many gentlemen owning large
tracts of land unsettled. This causes the settle-
* See Table, page 404.
384 GORE DISTRICT.
ments in Canada to be very much scattered, in con-
sequence of which, little work is done on the
roads, and in some parts where a trifling labour
would make it good. Could some plan be formed,
to settle the country more compact, and also to
make good roads through such lands as are the
property of gentlemen at home, not wishing to
sell them, would, in my opinion, add much to the
progress of the settlements.
There also is a want of enterprise. The minds
of the people want rousing up : they only want to
be made sensible that their country possesses as
many (if not more) natural advantages than any
part of North America.
The soil is good, and the means of conveyance
to market, connecting sleighing and water carriage,
is easy. The only necessary requisite is industry
and enterprise.
Your's truly,
ABSALOM SHADE,
Mr. ROBERT GOURLAY,
Queenston.
HALDIMAND.
/•
At a Meeting of the principal Inhabitants of the
Township of Haldimand, in the County of
Wentworth> and District of Gore, in the Province
of Upper Canada,, including the Chiefs of the
Five Nations of Indl&ns, held at the House of
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 385
Frederick Yeoward, Merchant, in Mount Plea-
sant, in said Township, on Thursday ,the~llth of
December, 1817, for the Purpose of taking into
Consideration the Queries proposed by Robert
Gourlay, Esq. and of giving Answers thereto,
to enable him to prepare a Statistical Account of
Upper Canada. — F. Yeoward being called to the
Chair, the following were adopted as Answers to
the Queries proposed, and were directed to be for-
warded by the Chairman, to the said Robert
Gourlay, Esq. viz.
1st. Haldimand — its length is estimated at about
twenty miles, commencing at Dundas street, and
its breadth twelve miles, that is, according to the
original grant, extending six miles from each side
of the Grand river, or river Ouse.
2d. Settled in the year 1783, by Captain Joseph
Brant, with the Five Nations* of Indians, and a few
volunteer white people. The population of the
white inhabitants is supposed to be 430 ; people of
colour 30, and the number of the whole of the
Five Nations about 1800, residing on the Grand
river; the number of inhabited houses supposed
to be sixty, exclusive of Indian dwellings.
3d. One established church, with a clergyman
attending occasionally.
8th. The price of boards, for 100 feet, one inch
stuff, 3s. 9d. ; one carding machine ; rate of card-
ing wool, 5d. per Ib, ; one fulling mill.
* They were originally the Five Nations ; now they are pro-
perly the Six Nations, and should be so denominated, having
adopted a sixth tribe or nation.— -R. G. »
c c
386 GORE DISTRICT.
9th. The land is composed of a variety of soil,
generally of sandy loam, and much very fertile.
10th. The kinds of timber are various, and consist
of white oak, white pine, sugar maple, beech,
black oak, red oak, elm, basswood, ash, butter-
nut, or white walnut, hickory, wild cherry, black
walnut, chestnut.
1 1 th. Plaster of Paris in abundance, and of a good
quality ; also salt springs, equal to those of Onan-
dagua, and which, if worked, would supply the
upper part of the province at about 17s. 6d. per
barrel. Limestone in considerable quantities.
12th. No building stones have as yet been dis-
covered.
15th. Wages of blacksmiths, for the working of
iron for husbandry uses, are 7|d. per Ib.
18th. The cost of clearing and fencing 5 acres of
woodland, per contract, is estimated at 151. ; but
great part of this township consists of plane lands,
the expence of clearing and fencing which is
trifling, and estimated at 71. 10s. ; board not in-
cluded.
26th. New lands are generally put in with winter
wheat, and seeded down with Timothy and clover,
in which they will continue from 3 to 5 years; and
when broken up again, will produce either wheat,
rye, or oats ; but are usually put in with wheat.
The usual way of putting in grain on the plains, is
by ploughing and harrowing, and on timbered lands
the first crops are only harrowed in.
27th. Land cultivated on shares, is generally let
for one-third of the produce of grain and hay. The
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 387
grain for seed, and team, and all expences of ma-
nagement, are usually found and paid by the tenants.
In this township, not much land let on shares.
28th. The land within this township is granted by
government to the Five Nations of Indians; some
part of the same being leased by their late agent,
Captain Joseph Brant, to the present white
settlers, for the term of 999 years, at 7s. 6d. per
acre, for the whole of that period.
29th. No land for sale, but leases for 21 years
may yet be obtained from the Indians, on very
moderate terms.
30th. State of roads is generally good, but capa-
ble of improvement, at a small expence. The
Grand river, or Ouse, is at present navigable for
rafts for a considerable distance above this town-
ship, down to its confluence with lake Erie, and
a great part of this extent may be navigated with
boats and vessels of considerable burden ; which
water conveyance might be much further obtained,
extended and improved by widening and deepening
the river in certain places.
31st. The Indians possessing the fee of the town-
ship, as tenants in-tail only (and not in fee simple)
prevents them from alienating lands, and of con-
sequence, retards its improvement.
Signed, in behalf of the Meeting, by
FREDERICK YEOWARD.
c c 2
388 GORE DISTRICT.
ill 'LLi^Ll'- >T !'
ANCASTER.
.- .ijjrig no 36
vd I) __ 'fiJi//[Hi
29th November, 1817.
Ui;« OJlJ Ipllfiq
a Meeting of the Inhabitants of the Township of
Ancaster, convened by public Notice, at Newton s
Hotel, in the Village of Ancaster, this Day,
James Dur and, Esq. Member for the County of
Wentworth, was called to the Chair, and Mr.
John Wilson, of Ancaster, chosen Secretary. Mffl
Resolved, — That this meeting do highly approve
of the plan proposed by Mr. Robert Gourlay, of
publishing a Statistical Account of this Province,
and most cordially agree with him on the subject
matter of his address to the resident land owners
of Upper Canada ; the remarks contained in which,
as far as they respect the resources of the county,
being, to their knowledge, from actual experience,
correct, and capable of realization, by all who
possess the qualification of industry, and the means
for making the experiment.
SECONDLY.
Resolved, — That the inhabitants of this town-
ship would rejoice in the opportunity of receiving
into their society, a respectable emigration of their
fellow subjects from the mother country, and in
furtherance of that object, and with a sincere de-
sire of disseminating an accurate account of the
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 389
country and its productions, do now proceed to
reply to the queries of Mr. Gourlay, in the order
they are proposed by him.
3d. No Episcopal church ; one Methodist meet-
ing house ; one resident episcopal minister.
8th. One carding machine ; charge 6d. per Ib. ;
one fulling mill.
9th. The soil, a sandy loam, in part; rich in-
terval in part, and some clay loam. The face of
the township is pleasantly diversified with hill and
dale, and some plains.
10th. Timber — White oak, white pine, red
and black oak, chestnut, beech, sugar maple,
black ash, white ash, elm, bass wood or lin-
den, hickory, butternut, birch, ironwood, sas-
safrass, dogwood, black walnut, cherry, swamp
oak, aspin tree, soft maple, hemlock, tamarack,
tamarisk, or turmerick, balm of Gilead, button-
wood, cedar, willow, black and white thorn, crab-
tree and wild plum ; also various kinds of shrubs
and vines, among which are black and spotted
alder, boortree or elder, sumach, hazel, sloe, black-
berry, dewberry, gooseberry, brown and red rasp-
berry, wild currant, whortleberry, mountainberry,
tall cranberry, choke cherry, blue grape, bitter,
sweet, strawberry, &c.
llth. Salt springs — One chalybeate spring:
strong indications of iron, and some trifling in-
dications of lead ; but none of these have been
explored,
12th. Limestone and freestone, both of excellent
390 GORE DISTRICT.
quality, and in great abundance ; price 2| dollars
per toise at the quarry.
16th. Wages — Labourers, from 11. 10s. to 4-1. 10s.
per month.
24th. Sown on new land i to 1J, on old land
J to 1 1, and reap from 12 to 20 bushels per acre : —
16 bushels per acre considered an average crop.
26th. On new lands, generally harrow in wheat
first, then seed down to grass, or plough and sow
oats, or plant maize or Indian corn, then pease, then
wheat, or fallow sowing wheat, then rye, then a
succession of spring crops.
Very little land has as yet been manured, and
when manure is used, it is chiefly for flax and In-
dian corn.
27th. The usual mode of letting land, is on
shares. The landlord furnishes land fenced, team,
and half the seed, and receives half the produce,
tenant finding himself; or landlord furnishes land
fenced, and receives one third, the tenant finding
team, and every thing else ; farms are almost always
to be obtained at these lays.
28th. Wild lands, at the first settling of this
township, sold at 61. 6s. per lot of '200 acres ; now
sells at 12s. 6d. to 11. 10s. and 51. per acre.
Cleared lands sell from 21. 10s. to 121. 10s. per
acre, according to the situation and advantages.
A tolerable farm house may be built at 1251. to
2501. ; a good frame barn at 1251.
29th. Any lands, and in fact, all lands in this
township, may be purchased ; it consists of about
200 lots.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 391
30th. State of public roads — middling; maybe
very much improved by the statute labour of the
inhabitants as imposed by law, if honestly ap-
plied.
31st. Want of capital and enterprise, are doubt-
less the greatest causes that have contributed to
retard the improvement of this township. The
former has of late years made small efforts, accom-
panied by the latter, and the consequences may be
seen in neat villages rising, where a few scat-
tered cottages were before only to be found. To-
gether with grist and saw mills, carding machines,
fulling mills, merchants' stores, sadlers' shops, tin
shops, hatters' shops, shoemakers' shops, tailors'
shops, joiners' shops, and other mechanical branches,
all of which find full employ, and buildings are
continually erecting with the profits of the farmers
toils.
A reply to the latter part of the 31st query, as
to what in our opinion, retards the improvement of
the province in general, would be more lengthy
than the nature of this meeting admits of,
were the subject done justice to. Briefly, how-
ever, want of capital and enterprise may be again
considered as having a large share in it ; for what
besides, you would say, with a climate and soil so
fine, and laws so excellent, could intervene to
check its progress ? There are, however, other
causes, and those causes out of our power to con-
troul, even with the aid of legislative interference.
It is our gracious Sovereign, and the Parliament
of the United Kingdom, that can alone lay the
392 GORE DISTRICT.
axe to the root of these obstructions ; but without
the slightest feeling of murmur, or idea of right
to dictate, we think it our duty to point out the
road to their removal.
A large portion of the province, equal in every
respect, in point of quality, to the granted lands,
still lays locked up in the shape of Crown and
Clergy reserves, in almost every township, com-
monly two-sevenths of the township, and these
interspersed as a caput mortuum amidst the settle-
ments, tend largely to check the improvement of
roads, added to the extensive tracts of land for-
merly granted to individuals, many of whom re-
side across the Atlantic, and contribute nothing to
the means of the province. Besides these, there
are whole townships shut up, as reserves for
schools, and beautiful tracts of first rate lands,
of almost immeasurable extent, immediately in
rear of all the settlements, remain in a desert
state.
Occasionally, a township is surveyed ofT, and
given out. This important gift and patronage, is
vested in the hands of the Administrator for the
time being,' and the Executive Council, — is acted
upon with a slow motion, producing little manifest
improvement to the province, — no visible invitation
to men of capital, — yielding no benefit to the
mother country, or restitution of her great ex-
pences here: whereas, the reverse would be the
undoubted result, were these tracts settled ; whilst,
at present, they operate as a dark and shady cloud,
keeping off the genial rays of the sun, and now
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 393
and then affording only a trifling emolument, as
fees, to a few individuals, instead of the abundant
harvests of the necessaries of life.
To remedy these obstructions (or shall we call
them evils) to the improvement of the province,
all that is wanting is, for the Crown to dispose of
those lands, impartially, to the highest bidder, that
they may be immediately settled, without waiting
the tardy movements of a land-granting depart-
ment : then, indeed, there would be room for the
redundant population of Great Britain, an ample
field for capitalists, and the exercise of enterprising
spirits, and an opening to cement upon a large
scale that connexion with the mother country,
which (to use your own words) ' Would cause
the idea of invasion to wither before its strength/
The munificent bounty of the Crown might still
be employed in Canada, in making roads, im-
proving the navigation^ and other projects to
which the geographical figure of Canada offers
every invitation, jnrg
(Signed)
JAMES DURAND, Chairman.
JOHN WILSON, Secretary.
RICHARD HATT, JOSEPH HOUSE,
WM. RYMAL, JOHN AIRMAN,
CHRIST. ALMOS, DANIEL SHOWERS, ><M
JACOB RYMAL, WILLIAM CLINTON.
ELIJAH SECORD, PETERBAWTINHEYMER,
MATTHEW CROOKS, LOT TISDALE,
PETER HOGEBOOM, WM. TISDALE,
CONRADT FILMAN, And sixty-eight others.
1
394 GORE DISTRICT.
BARTON.
At a Meeting of a Number of respectable Free-
holders, convened at the House of Samuel Price,
Innkeeper, in the Town of Hamilton, District
of Gore, on Wednesday the \lth Day of Decem-
ber, 1817, for the Purpose of taking into Con-
sideration the Queries offered to the Public by
Robert Gourlay, Esq. relative to the Agricultural
Interest of the Province, Richard Beasley, Esq.
was chosen Chairman, and William B. Peters,
Esq. Secretary to the said Meeting.
,VTI * rf rlt iftiv
9th. Under the mountain from the front to the
third concession almost altogether a sandy soil.
On the mountain generally clay, with a slight mix-
ture of loam.
10th. White oak, black oak, and pine, maple,
hickory, beech, dry ash, black walnut, close under,
and on the top of the mountain.
llth. Coal, none. What is called the mountain,
composed of limestone, with a very little freestone,
runs lengthways through the township; the breadth
of limestone is If miles; one salt spring, yielding
a trifling profit.
12th. Generally limestone, with a little free-
stone, at 10s. per toise.
24th. One bushel per acre, and 25 to -30 bushels
on new land ; and on old, cultivated land, from 16
to 20.
25th. About lOOlb.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 395
126th. Wheat first, then grass three years, then
wheat to spring grain. Manure potatoes, Indian
corn, pease.
27th. About 2000 acres. If landlord furnish
every thing for the use of the farm, he receives two-
thirds of the product. In 1792 land sold at l/>d.
per acre; in J800, 5s.; in 1806, 15s.; in 1810,
11, 10s. ; in 1817, about 21. 10s. On an average,
about 51. per acre for an improved farm of 200
acres, with small frame, or log-house and barn, and
other outhouses. Improved farms have sold from
61. 5s. to 71. 10s. per acre.
30th. Tolerably good, and capable of much im-
provement at a moderate expence.
31st. The want of a cut through the beach to
the lake Ontario. This concerns the district, and
the upper part of the. province materially, inas-
much as a safe and commodious harbour would
then be found in the heart of the country, of
much importance to the government in time of
war, as it would lead to a safe communication
across the peninsula to lake Erie. As to the
causes which have retarded, and do retard, the im-
provement of the province in general, among the
most prominent may be enumerated :
1st. The want of capital, which the establish-
ment of a banking system would, it is conceived,
in a great degree supply; and individual enterprise,
which would be also much encouraged by such an
establishment.
2d. Large quantities of wild land, the property
of absentees, not subject to taxation.
LORE DISTRICT.
3d. The want of a liberal and indiscriminate en-
couragement to emigration, by the government of
the province, more particularly the exclusion of
American settlors since the late war, which has de-
prived the country of much wealth, which numer-
ous valuable settlers would have introduced, arid
still would continue to introduce, were such re-
straint removed.
4th. The wild lands of the crown intermixed
with the settlements throughout the province, com-
monly called crown reserves, lying in the unim-
proved state they are, would, were they sold at
auction by the government, not only produce large
sums of money, which could be applied to useful
purposes, but tend essentially to improve every
part of the province.
RICHARD BEASLEY, Chairman.
W. B. PETERS, Secretary.
SALTFLEET.
10th Dec. 1817.
A MEETING of the inhabitants, house-
holders of the aforesaid township, this day, for the
purpose of taking into consideration your queries,
as published in the Spectator, and the following
are the answers, and are numbered agreeable to the
number of queries.
There is attached to this township a long sandy
beach, of at least 5£ miles, which divides between
Burlington bay and the hike, of from one to four
hundred yards in breadth, and has every appear-
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 397
ance of being thrown up by the surf of the lake,
and forming an excellent highway.
«5d. There is one house for religious worship,
built by the Methodist society, but almost ruined
by the late war, and Ins not been repaired since.
The people are of various denominations, but the
Methodists are the most numerous, and are regular-
ly supplied by itinerant and local preachers. The
itinerant preachers are two in number ; and here
justice demands of us to say, that much is du.e to
this succession of itinerant Methodist preachers, for
the good morals, and steady habits that are ob-
servable, with so few exceptions, throughout this
township ; and there has never been one of any
other denomination resident therein.
4th. There is not a doctor in the town, and
generally but little for them to do.
9th. The soil is various; in some parts sandy;
in others clay, and in others a sand and clay loam,
which seems to abound most, and the whole is
natural to grass ; but produces excellent crops of
wheat, rye, oats, and Indian corn, when well put in.
The surface is generally level, from the lake to the
mountain, which is from two to three miles.
10th. The whole of this township was covered
with a heavy growth of pine, oak, maple, hickory,
ash, linden, elm, and black walnut timber.
llth. There has no ore as yet been discovered,
but in several places along the mountain, there are
springs strongly impregnated with sulphur; and
sulphur in entire lumps, as large as a pint measure,
and in large quantities, and so pure as to answer
various purposes, equal to the most refined roll
898 GORE DISTRICT.
brimstone. Two salt springs have also been dis-
covered on the western side of the township,
which have been worked for several years to con-
siderable advantage, particularly during the late
war ; but being supplied at a cheaper rate from the
United States, they are now neglected. Lime-
stone in large quantities.
12th. Excellent building stone, and inexhaust-
ible quantities ; but from the liberality of the
owners, we have not heard of any being sold.
15th. The piece work of a blacksmith, rates
nearty as follows: fora good chopping axe, 12s. 6d.;
for a corn or garden hoe, 6s. ; for shoeing a horse,
8s. 9d.; for sharping plough irons, Is. ; for making
ox, or log chains, Is. per pound.
17th. Price of mowing grass for hay 3s. 9d.
per day.
2v5th, The pasture is mostly white clover and
Timothy grass, with considerable quantities of
spear and blue grass, and some others of less note ;
but the former is the most esteemed for feeding
cattle. Cows pastured on Timothy and clover
grass, will yield the greatest quantity of milk, and
is always rich and pleasant. Considerable quanti-
ties of butter are made for the market, and of a
quality probably not exceeded in the province,
and which now fetches Is. 3d. per Ib. Cheese is
made, but in less quantities, and generally finds a
ready market, at lOd. per pound.
26th. The common method of treating new land
is to sow a crop of wheat in the autumn, without
ploughing (which would be neither necessary nor
practicable, as in a state of nature there is neither
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 399
grass nor weeds to prevent the growth of grain,
for the first season after clearing away the tim-
ber), and in the spring following sow Timothy
or clover seed, which produces pasture after har-
vest, and for seven, eight, or ten succeeding years
makes excellent meadow : after which time the
roots of the timber being sufficiently rotted, it
may be turned over with the plough ; and many
have raised large crops of wheat (and which sel-
dom fails), by sowing and harrowing in the seed
with one ploughing only ; but the land may be
worked five or six years successively to advantage,
after breaking up the sod, and will need no manure ;
after which, to produce good crops of wheat, flax,
Indian corn, or potatoes, it will require manure ;
but by laying the land down to grass for three or
four years (it being so natural thereto), will re-
cover its strength without any manure.
27th. But little land has hitherto been let on
shares, as from the cheapness of land every indus-
trious and prudent man can, and does, in a short
time, become the proprietor of land. But in the
instances where lands that are improved have been
worked to the shares, the tenant, when finding
all but the land, returns the landlord one-third of
the products : and where the landlord finds team,
wear and tear, and two-thirds of the seed, and
gathers in one-half, he draws two-thirds of the
products, and the tenant one-third.
28th. The price of land in this township, at the
first settlement thereof, rated so low as to make it
no object with many. A lot of 100 acres might
400 GORE DISTRICT.
be purchased for 5\. or 61. 5s., and large quantities
were actually bought and sold at these prices ; it has
gradually rose from that time to the year 1812,
since which time it seems stationary for want of
purchasers. But the average price of wild land
may be rated at ll. 3s. per acre. A farm of about
300 acres of land, one-third of which cleared, and
a comfortable house and good barn, with a bearing
orchard of one or two hundred apple trees, the
whole premises being in tolerable repair, may be
purchased from 10001. to 1,5001., according to the
situation. A farm nearly answering to this de-
scription was actually sold for the highest sum
here mentioned.
29th. It would be impossible to ascertain the
quantity of lands in this township for sale; but
from its extent, and the thinness of the population,
and a considerable quantity being owned by non-
residents, there is no doubt a great deal for sale.
30th. The roads are in a most deplorable situa-
tion, although some of the principal ones have
been considerably repaired at the public expence.
But should an increase of public expenditure, or
diminution of revenue, prevent legislative aid, the
statute labour will be insufficient to keep the best
of them in repair. Much improvement might be
made, and a handsome profit yielded, were com-
panies authorized to make and keep public high-
ways in repair ; the making of which would be a
most suitable employment for Europeans upon their
first introduction into this province, they being-
better acquainted with that business than the Ca-
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 401
nadians. The grand mode of conveyance here,
and through the whole province, is upon the great
lakes ; but were public spirit once roused, much
might be effected to improve the water commu-
nication. But to confine the matter to Saltfleet, a
canal might be easily cut through the long beach
which separates Burlington bay from lake Ontario
(the present outlet only admitting small boats, and
sometimes a canoe can scarcely pass), the distance
not exceeding one-fourth of a mile, and the height
above the water not more than eight or ten feet,
composed wholly of a fine sand, with a bold shore
in many places on both sides, and the bottom of
both lakes indicating nothing more to resist than a
clay, the accomplishment of which would be an
object of no less importance to the government
than the people ; and here the benefit derived
would not be confined to Saltfleet t this little work,
of vast importance, would form one of the most
secure and capacious harbours to be found ; here
the fleet might bid defiance to an enemy in time of
war, or act in conjunction with an army ; Burling-
ton heights having once been the last resort of the
army, and ultimately proved the saving of the
country. It would also, by changing the route,
shorten the distance of conveying the exports and
imports of a large portion of the district of Gore in
which it lies ; and also a large portion of the Lon-
don District, lying westward, and could not fail
to add new life and energy to the whole.
(Signed)
HUGH WILLSON, Chairman,
D D
402
STATISTICAL
Composed of Extracts from the Township
WAGES OF
Names of
Townships.
When Settled.
Inhabited Houses.
"8
J
z
No. of Churches or
Places of Worship.
No. of Preachers.
No. of Medical
Practitioners.
No. of Schools.
Fees per Quarter.
No. of Stores.
No. of Taverns.
No. of Grist Mills.
'£
'c
6
Prices of Bricks
per 1000.
Prices of Lime per
bushel.
Blacksmiths per
month and day.
Carpenters p.day.
Masons per day.
Common Labour-
ers per Annum.
s.d
*. d.
s.d.
a. d.
*. rf.
^•«
Trafal-
gar
1807
97
£48
0
2 M.
0
3
10 10
0
4
1
4
30 0
0
..
••
5 0
2ft 0
Nelson ..
1807
68
476
0
1 M.
,i
•2
12 6
1
3
2
1
24 0
0 9
..
•: o
31 5
Welling.
ton
Square,
part of
Nelson
1802
16
..
0
0
1
1
15 0
1
1
0
0
..
0 1\
..
10 0
S 3
25 0
East
•"lamboro
..
38
..
0
0
9
..
0
0
1
2
30 0
0
..
6 3
6 3
Per
M.
West
794
72
360
4
5
1
r,
£'.
Flambo-
ro' and
0
0
12 6
3
SO 0
074
6 5
10 0
10 0
Bever-
ly
800
60
309
1
0
1
2
Per
Day.
s.d.
Waterloo
800
138
850
0
2T. *
Men.
0
3
15 0
3
1
3
5
500
0
7 6
10 0
10 0
37 10
Dumfries
816
32
163
0
0
0
0
0
1
0
..
1
..
o 74
-
..
..i
..
Haldi-
mand ..
783
60
430
1
..
0
6
2 6
3
5
2
3
250
1 3
..
7 6
7 6
32 10
Per
M.
Anr aster
1790
162
037
M.
IE.
1
616 3
6
8
4
b
35 0
I 0
6 5
10 0
10 0
Barton ..
1787
130
800
1
..
0
513 6
5
4
1
4
40 0
074
6 fi
11 3
11 3
26 0
Saltfleet !1787
100
700! 1
••
0
5 ..
'
5
1
6
37 6
1 0
»
76
5 0
25 0
Totals.
.-
973
5673
4
6
3
i?
107 3
21
34
IS
41
301 6
fi 6
18 15
726
?0 9
192 6
Averag-
ed by
11
10
8
9
g
3
8
10
7
Average-,
--
88 567
-
»
"
.. 13 5
....
-•
33 6
09}
6 5
09}
91
27 9
T. in column six stands for Tanker; Men. for Menouist;
TABLE.
403
Reports of the District of Gore.
WAGES OF
PRICES OF LIVE STOCK'
Common Labour-
ers per Winter
month.
Common Labour-
ers per Summer
month.
Common Labourers
per day in Harvest.
a.
s*
P
Cost of clearing and
fencing five Acres
ofwilcf Land.
A Work-horse.
1
O
d
•4
d.
1
Quantity of Wool
per Sheep.
Price of Wool per Ib.
Produce of wheat in
bushels, per acre.
An Ox will gain in
a Summer's run.
I
Price of Cheese,
per Ib.
Price of Land per
Acre, at first.
i Price of Land per
Acre now.
L. 8
L. s
s.d
s. d.
L. s.
L. s
L. 8.
L. s. s.d.
Ib.
s.d.
to.
*. d.
s.d
s.d
«. d.
2 0
3 2
..
5 0
15 0
13 15
4 15
7 10 12 6
24
I 10
20
200
1 0
1 0
7 6
22 6
2 5
3 15
5 0
6 4
18 15
15 0
5 0
7 10
15 0
4
2 6
IS
JL
0 11
0 7£
10 0
..
3
2 0
3 7
5 0
6 3
15 0
15 0
6 5
8 15
136
3£
2 6
M
..
1 3
0 7i
10 0
95 0
•-
••
••
6 0
30 0
17 10
4 17
9 0
10 0
3
3 6
«
100
••
"
7 6
20 0
-
-
6 3
6 3
20 0
15 0
4 7
9 7
11 3
3
3 6
1C
100
0 10
0 7^
--
"
--
•-
5 0
6 6
25 0
30 0
5 0
10 0
12 6
"
2 6
20
100
1 0
1 0
5 0
20 0
2 10
3 15
5 0
5 0
15 0
15 0
5 0
7 10
10 0
3J
2 6
SO
200
0 10
5
--
--
..
mm
6 3
6 S
20 0
15 0
4 7
9 7
11 3
3
2 6
ir,
300
11
«
..
2 0
3 0
5 0
12 10
16 5
4 10
10 0
10 0
3
2 6
25
100
11
'i
..
..
2 0
3 0
--
5 0
20 0
17 10
5 0
10 0
12 6
3
3 6
20
150
3
0 10
--
«
12 15
19 19
38 9
57 7
81 5
160 0
49 1
88 19
117 6
38^
24 4
196
1150
9 0
8 7
10 0
J7 6
6
6
7
10
10
10
10
10
10
9
10
10
8
9
9
5
4
2 S
3 6
5 6
5 9
18 3
16 0
4 18
8 18
11 9
4
2 6
19i
143
0
)8f
1 10
E. for Episcopal ; M. for Methodist.
D D 2
404
TABLE,
Shewing the Beginning and Progress of Dumfries
Settlement.
Names of Settlers.
ns
ttt
a
Z
Date of taking Possession.
Bushels of Grain sown Au-
tumn, 1817.
Total No. of Acres cleared
and chopped up to the end
of Nov. 1817.
No. of Horses.
Number of Cows.
Number of Oxen.
4
March,
8 W.
8
I
2
2
Michael Vanevry ...
L. Sichermerholm ...
Cornelius Conner ...
Samuel Muma
John Pettit
3
3
7
6
9
1817.
March,
1817.
March,
1817.
December,
1816.
March,
1817.
June,
5 W.
8 W.
5 W.
11 W.
9 R.
6
9
10
20
*>
0
0
1
0
2
1
1
2
1
3
2
0
0
0
0
8
1817.
40
3
3
0
3
1816.
May,
If W.
IS
0
1
0
Isaac Shaver
3
1817.
March,
1§ R.
12§ W.
15
1
2
0
John Chambers
Thomas Laurison ...
Miller Laurison
John Laurison ...-•
Enos Griffeth ..••> ...
3
1
9
4
7
1817.
December,
1816.
May,
1817.
May,
1817.
May,
1817.
December,
6 W.
23| W.
, 15§ W.
13 W.
15
2
25
20
23
1
0
2
0
2
2
1
3
4
3
0
0
2
2
0
Ephraira Munson...
Niel Me Mullen
7
6
5
1816.
May,
1817.
July,
1817.
May,
4 W.
5 W.
9
7
6
2
0
0
3
2
2
2
0
9,
William Rosebrugh .
William Me Kenkie .
John Buchannan . .
7
1
3
1817.
December,
1816.
June,
1817.
May,
1817.
5 W.
5 W.
*
6
10
0
0
0
3
0
2
2
0
2
Totals, 20.
99
....
127| W.
lOf R.
245§
15
41
16
In column fourth of the above Table, W. stands for wheat, and R. for rye. In the same column tha
number of bushels may also be taken for the number of acres sown. The word chopped, used in
column fifth, means when all the timber is cut down, and in pieces ready for burning. Some of
this township is plain, which may account for some of the settlers having so large an extent chopped
and cleared in so short a time. The original Table contained is more settlers ; but those exhibited
are sufficient for the purpose.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 405
SUMMARY OF POPULATION, &C.
The above Table directly exhi-
bits . ' . . . ^ A' -5675 people;
and the average to each of nine
townships, completely reckoned, is
5/7. The average number of per-
sons to a house in these townships
is 6ir. Wellington Square
has . . . 16 houses
East Flamboro' 38 ditto
•'I*.; O'j:>i?'? ifc.OOt 10 upr- ___ .".•!;-'-.;'.! r*;)} 'i<)
These multiplied by 67 54, give 330
Total population thus calculated 6003
The only organized township in
the district of Gore, not reported, is
Glandford : it is pretty, well settled,
and will equal in population at
least the average of the reported
townships, V4.K'H •$ ' '•'••*."' f7. ,577
Binbrook had in 1817 only
16 families, which reckoned
at 6f gives \ '!'•'*• pl. 1 'h: -, 98
Woolwich only one family 6
681
Total white population . . 6684
The Indians on the Grand
river are stated in the Re-
port of Haldimand, to be
about .... 1800
People of colour, by whom
are meant, I presume, negroes
and mulattoes 30
406 GORE DISTRICT.
But I have seen an accurate
government list of the Grand i/v>J
river Indians, which made
their number upwardsof 1900,
so that we may add S1.,£ 100
1930
Total population, reported
and estimated f}4tj • • 8614
For the reported population of 6003, there ap-
pear to be four places of worship, and six resident
preachers ; viz. three Methodists ; two Tunkers
and Menonists; and one Episcopalian. There are
three medical practitioners ; thirty-seven schools ;
and thirty-four taverns.
Improvement is said to be retarded, in seven
reports, by crown, clergy, and other reserves : in seven
reports, by the great extent of non-resident's land :
in three reports, by want of capital : in two re-
ports, by shutting out American settlers: in one
report, by want of enterprise : in one report, by
want of mechanics : in one report, by the poverty
of beginners : in one report, by the effects of the
late war : ii> one report, by the want of emigrants,
and the difficulties opposed to them: in one report,
by bad roads : in one report, by want of men : in
one report, by lands held by Indians, who cannot
alienate : in one report, by want of liberal and in-
discriminate encouragement to emigration, by the
government of the province : in one report, the
people want rousing up.
NIAGARA DISTRICT. 407
HUMBERSTON.
14th January, 1818.
Mr. ROBERT GOURLAY,
SIR,
HAVING considered your queries, we now
present you with answers to the same :
5th. There is one English and one Dutch
school*
8th. The rate of sawing, 3s. 6d. per hundred
feet, or one half of the timber.
9th. Much of the soil is a rich black loam ; some
of a yellowish cast and poorer, and a small propor-
tion clay. There is a considerable extent of marsh.
The surface throughout is flat and iow, unless
along the lake shore, where there is a narrow
ridge of blown sand, occasionally elevated into
little hills, the highest of which is called the Sugar
Loaf. It may be 150 feet high, or upwards.
10th. Timber abounds in the following order;
oak, pine, hickory, beech, maple, walnut, a^sh,
elm, bass, tamarack, black spruce, hemlock, and
cedar, red and white.
llth. There is abundance of limestone, and two
sulphur springs.
12th. Limestone is used for building, and is got
on the lake shore for the picking up.
18th. No land has been cleared by contract for
many years.
408 NIAGARA DISTRICT.
21st. Beasts are turned out to pasture about the
beginning of May, and taken home the beginning
of November.
22d. Sleighing generally lasts two months, and
ploughing commences the first of April.
23d. Wheat is sown in September, and reaped
the beginning of August.
25th. The pasture is capital. Cheese is seldom
taken to market.
26th. Atter clearing the land, wheat is the first
crop, and is often sown the second year, when it
is sown down with timothy and clover. When
broken up from grass, wheat is sown, then oats, and
then again laid down to grass. Sometimes the suc-
cession is wheat, Indian corn, wheat and grass.
On the best spots, Indian corn is grown several
years in succession. Manure is generally applied
to meadows, and sometimes to wheat.
27th. Some land is let on shares, one-third of
the crop being given to the landlord, and one-half
if he furnishes team, and tackle; excepting always,
potatoes, flax, and garden stuffs.
28th. At the first settlement, when much land
was held on location tickets, lots of 200 acres
could be bought for 20 dollars. The price has
gradually increased, and of late years sales have
been effected at 2| dollars per acre.
29th. A considerable quantity of land is now for
sale,
30th, The roads are not good, but could be
much improved. Water conveyance is by lake
Erie ; and a canal could be very easily cut from
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 409
this to Lyons' creek, to communicate with Chip-
pawa.
31st. Increased population, and improved roads,
;are most to be desired.
(Signed)
CHRISTIAN ZAVITZ,
ALEXANDER GLEN,
JESSE ZAVITZ,
. . ISAAC MINER,
DAVID STEEL, (for self and father)
WILLIAM STEEL.
BERTIE.
3d. About once a fortnight a Methodist preacher
holds a meeting here.
6th. There are eight merchant shops, and four
store houses for receiving and storing merchan-
dise in the township.
8th. One carding machine. Rate of carding
wool, 6d. per pound.
9th. The soil, generally, is a mixture of clay and
loam ; the surface flat.
10th. This township is timbered with white and
red oak, beech, sugar maple, pine, elm, bass wood,
black and white ash, whitewood, hickory, black
and white walnut, and tamarack.
3
410 NIAGARA DISTRICT.
llth. The only min ral that has been dis-
covered is what is here called hog ore, of which
there is said to be plenty in the marshes. Lime-
stone abounds in every part of the township.
12th. Limestone is the only building stone we
have. It can be obtained for about 15s. per toise
at the quarry.
15th. Blacksmiths have generally 7id. for work-
ing iron brought to the shops, and 5s. for shoeing
a horse ; none of the iron found by the smith.
21st. Cattle are not generally put out to pas-
ture fields in the spring, but are turned into the
woods, about the 1st of May, at which time they
thrive well on the tender growth, and are taken
into the yard again about the 1st of December.
22d. Sleighing commences about the 1st of
January, and ends about the 1st of March. Plough-
ing commences the 1st of April.
23d. The season for sowing wheat, is from the
1st to the 20th of September. Wheat harvest ge-
nerally commences about the 1st of August. '
25th. Pasture is productive. An ox of four
years old, will gain about one-third his weight in a
summer's run ; that is, if he weighs 4001bs. in the
spring, he will weigh 600lbs. in the autumn. A
milch cow, at pasture, gives from ten to fourteen
quarts of milk per day.
26th. New lands are generally sown with wheat
in the autumn, with grass seed in the spring ; after
which, they remain in meadow or pasture ground
for three or four years ; when the roots and stumps
become decayed: they are then ploughed in the
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 411
spring, and sown with wheat in the fall. Manure
is more generally applied to the spring crop, that is,
Indian corn, buck wheat, potatoes, and flax.
27th. Lands are frequently let on shares, and the
custom here is, to allow the landlord one-third of
the produce raised on the land.
29th. The quantity of land now for sale in this
township, is about 2000 acres.
30th. Perhaps no township in the province has
greater advantages on account of the water commu-
nication than this. Property of all kinds is con-
veyed in vessels of 130 tons burden, from
hence nearly 100 miles westward. A canal is
projected at Fort Erie rapids, which, when com-
pleted, will admit of boats passing through, of five
tons burden. Public roads are rather in a bad
state, but by a strict application of the statute
labour, and a moderate ex pence, they might be
made good.
31st. For the last two years this township has
improved ; but its improvement might be greatly
advanced, and that in a very few years, had we but
a few men of capital and enterprise from the
mother country among us. Perhaps, no township
in the district of Niagara, can boast of better lands
than the township of Bertie, and we are certain
that very few have greater advantages either for the
mechanic or farmer.
We, Sir, are convinced that the plan you have
undertaken for encouraging our fellow subjects to
migrate to this province, and settle amongst us,
412 NIAGARA DISTRICT.
is an excellent one, and we earnestly hope and
trust it may and will succeed.
Township of Bertie, 1st January, 1818.
(Signed)
J. WARREN, J. P. JOHN APPLEGARTH,
ANDREW MILLER, THOMAS MOORE,
SAMUEL M'AFEE, B. HARBISON,
CHARLES HILL, JOHN MAXWELL,
HENRY WARREN, MATTHIAS HAUN.
WILLIAM POWELL,
WILLOUGHBY.
2d, Surveyed and laid out by government in
1787, at which time it got its present name ; pre-
vious to this, in 1784, there were about ten fami-
lies settled upon some parts of the land, under the
sanction of the then commanding officer at Niagara.
3d. There are frequently illiterate Methodist
preachers, of whom there is no scarcity in the coun-
try, who occasionally hold forth ; and such of the
inhabitants who have not the benefit of these,
attend divine worship in the neighbouring town-
ships when an occasion offers.
9th. Surface is in general flat and low. Soil in
general a black loam and clay ; and very heavily
timbered.
10th. The kinds of timber are red oak, elm,
maple, beech, pine, hickory, basswood, black wal-
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 413
nut, black spruce, white oak, and a variety of dif-
ferent descriptions.
llth. There are two sulphur springs in the inte-
rior of the township, very strongly impregnated.
16th. Wages of a labourer per day in harvest for
cradling, the price of a bushel of wheat ; the same
for the person that rakes and binds, both being
found in provision, and in as much grog as they
choose to drink.
17th. Price for mowing grass per day, about 3s.
9d. and treated as above.
18th. Cost of clearing and fencing five acres of
land, about 201. ; that is, cutting, burning up all
the timber a foot diameter and under; the larger
timber being killed by cutting the bark all round ;
in doing this, the person clearing the land, finds
himself in provisions and every other expense.
21st. Beasts are commonly turned out to pasture
in the beginning of March, or so soon as the snow
is off the ground ; cattle finding food much earlier
in heavy timbered land, than upon open land ;
working cattle are only housed when the snow be-
gins to fall, which is about January ; young cat-
tle commonly run out all winter and get a little
fodder in very severe weather.
24th. One bushel, and sometimes only three quar-
ters to an acre, if sown early.
25th. The pasture throughout the township is
excellent ; the white clover growing so soon as
ever the land is cleared. A good cow will give milk
enough to make six or seven pounds of butter per
week.
414 NIAGARA DISTRICT.
26th. New land, when first cleared, is commonly
sowed with wheat in the month of September ;
timothy and red clover seeds are sown on the same
ground early in the spring following, then lays in
grass till the roots are rotted, so as to allow the
plough to go through ; this requires three or four
years ; then ploughed, and four or five crops of any
kind of grain are taken off successively, without
any manure whatever ; then laid down in grass for
two or three years, and again cropped as before.
27th. Very little land let upon shares ; but when
this is the case, the landlord gets one-third of the
grain, and one-half of the hay, the tenant finding
team and tackling ; but if the landlord finds team,
and tackling, and stock, he gets half of all the in-
crease, both grain and stock.
28th. A farm of 200 acres, one-half under cul-
tivation, with tolerable frame buildings, and orchard,
sells now for 6251. to 7001. Farms, however, upon
the Niagara or Chippawa rivers, will sell much
higher according to their situation.
• 29th. From the best information there may be
from eight to ten thousand acres of wild lands, and
eight or ten improved farms for sale in this township.
30th. The roads in this township are principally
upon the east, west, and north sides, and are
in general good, there being little or no settle-
ment in the interior and south side, owing to large
tracts being owned there by non-residents ; good
roads can be made any where through the township,
if ever settled ; good water conveyance on the east
and north sides by the Niagara and Chippawa
TOWNSHIP REPORTS, 415
rivers, and Lyons creek, on the north-west part
of the township. Much might be done in the im-
provement of this township and the adjoining town-
ships of Crowland and Wainfleet, by bringing the
water of lake Erie into Lyons cree'k, which emp-
ties into the Chippawa river, about a mile from the
mouth, the distance from the head of Lyons creek
not being more than a mile from lake Erie, in dig-
ging which, eight feet would be the deepest to
about three feet at the least; the soil of which,
part sand and part clay ; this improvement has been
talked of, but from the want of means and inhabi-
tants, has never been attempted. Did this improve-
ment take place, it would be a great benefit to the
transport between lakes Ontario and Erie, the dis-
tance from the mouth of Chippawa to the place
where it is proposed to let the waters of lake Erie
into Lyons creek, not being greater than from the
mouth of the Chippawa to Fort Erie; besides, at
the proposed place for this cut, there is a good har-
bour for vessels on lake Erie. In case of a war
this line of transport would be of much use, it
being quite removed from the division line between
this country and the United States.
3 1st. What in our opinion retards the improve-
ment of this township, is, that a great part of it
is in large tracts, being owned by persons not resi-
dent on the land, and who cannot find purchasers ;
what retards the improvement of the province in
general, is the want of good wholesome inhabitants
to cultivate the soil. Emigration from the united
kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland is much
412 NIAGARA DISTRICT.
Wished for, and at the same time it would be
strengthening the province against our enemies ;
even a few inhabitants from the United States, un-
der proper restrictions, would add much to the ad-
vantage of this, as also to the mother country in
cultivating the wild lands.
We would earnestly recommend a large emigra-
tion from the mother country of industrious peo-
ple, who, by obtaining one or two hundred acres of
wild lands from government, might set themselves
down with their families, and in the course of one
or two years make a good living in the province.
(Signed)
THOMAS CUMMINGS, J. P.
JAMES CUMMINGS, J. P.
Willouyhby, <\tli Dec. 1817.
STAMFORD.
Ndv. 17 thy 1817.
ROBERT GOURLAY, ESQ.
SIR,
HAVING seen your address to the resn
dent land owners of Upper Canada, and it appear-
ing to me that if the views of which are carried
into effect, much benefit, in my humble opinion,
will result to this township, but more particularly
to the province at large, I have, therefore, con-
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 417
vened a few of our oldest and most respectable
inhabitants, in conjunction with whom I now send
the following answers to your queries for the
township of Stamford, viz.
1st. This township, at its first settlement, was
called Mount Dorchester, or township No. 2, and
got its present name from Lieutenant Governor
Simcoe, in 1793.
2d. It was first settled in 1784, by about 10
families, who had adhered to the British cause
during the American war.
3d. It has one Presbyterian church, built in
1791) by subscription; another church was also
built by subscription in 1795, for the use of all
persuasions. This last was destroyed during the
late war. One other church is now building for
the Methodists. We have one resident Presbyte-
rian clergyman (supported by subscription) ; also
itinerant Methodist preachers, who preach once a
fortnight : and occasionally divine service is per-
formed by the established episcopal clergymen of
the neighbourhood, when they see convenient.
8th. One fulling mill, and two carding mills.
About 7d. sterling per yard for fulling and pressing
cloth, and about 5{d. per pound for carding wool.
9th. The soil is in general of a loamy clay, with
some sandy and other soils, all of which have been
found good for wheat and other grain, as also for
hay and pasture.
10th. The timber is chiefly oak, beech, maple,
hickory, walnut, elm, chestnut, basswood, ash, and
some pine, as also a small quantity of other sorts.
E E
418 NIAGARA DISTRICT.
llth. Of minerals there are none, except bog
iron ore : limestone there is abundance ; it being
the general strata of the township, all the bank of
the Niagara river being of this, as also the rock over
which the Niagara Falls pour. No plaster of Paris
has yet been found of a good quality; some
marl ; no salt rock ; some salt licks on the banks
of the Chippawa ; no salt springs; several inflam-
mable gas springs, which ooze out of the bank of
the Niagara river, from the mouth of Chippawa
river, and extend about If miles down. The air,
from some of these, when confined in a tube, will
burn constantly.
12th, There are building-stones plenty; the
quality a bastard limestone, and cost about 25s.
per toise at the quarry.
17th. Hay, in a plentiful season, is frequently
mowed and cured to the halves, either divided in
stacks, or in cocks, as agreed upon. Price of
mowing and making an acre of grass, 3s. 9d. to 5s.
18th. The cost of clearing and fencing five
acres of land fit for the harrow, is from 50 to 60
dollars: by clearing, is meant all the fallen timber,
and the standing timber of a foot diameter and
under, being cut up and burnt; the larger standing
timber to be girdled.
21st. Young cattle and horses frequently stay
out for two or three months in the winter, where
the woods are contiguous, a little fodder being
only given them in storms and severe weather.
25th. The quality of the pasture is in general
good ; the white clover coming in naturally so
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 419
soon as the land is cleared of timber. A good
cow will yield from 5lb. to 61b. of butter per week.
26th. Wheat is generally the first crop after clear-
ing the land; sometimes, but not generally, a second
crop of wheat; then grass three or four years;
then ploughed up for wheat, or any other grain,
and continued in crop for three or four years.
Manure seldom used for any other crop than that
of Indian corn or potatoes. Wheat is commonly
sown on fallow, that is, ground two or three times
ploughed, in May, June, and July.
27th. Several farms are let out on shares, say
to the extent of 20.
28th. A farm of 100 acres partly cleared, say
half, and under cultivation, with tolerable farm
buildings, including a good orchard (which almost
every farm has), will sell for 5001. sterling, quick
sale, and some places at a higher rate, according to
situation.
29th. The land being principally settled, and in
general improved, there is none for sale, unless an
offer is made which the owner thinks advan-
tageous.
30th. The great portage road from Queenston to
the water communication above the falls goes
through this township, and is in general good, as
are also the other roads. The roads here, as in the
other townships of the province, are made and
repaired by statute labour, which is too generally
but indifferently applied. Much improvement
might be made in the roads, was this labour com-
muted. No water carriage, except on the Chip-
E E 2
420 NIAGARA DISTRICT.
pawa river, on the south of the township, which is
navigable for boats of any description from the
mouth /or 40 miles. Locks may be made to
pass the great falls, and connect lakes Ontario and
Erie ; but many years must elapse before the pro-
vince is rich enough to meet the expence.
31st. What retards the further improvement of
the township is the scarcity of labourers, there
being few not only in this township, but through-
out the province in general. This scarcity is caused
principally by the want of emigration, and by the
ease with which industrious labourers can obtain
lands in the interior of the country, where they
can make farms of their own ; this township, how-
ever, is much better improved in roads, and in
every other respect than most townships of the
province, owing to its being owned principally by
actual settlers, with moderate quantities of land, and
no reserves being made in it for fth of the land
for the crown, and another £th for the clergy.
Some few of the adjoining townships are in the
same fortunate situation, these being surveyed
and a Hotted to actual settlers before the reserva-
tion of the above f ths of the land was thought
of; other tracts have, however, suffered severely
for this ; in which are not only made reservations
of their own *.ths, but reservations are also made
in them for the townships granted without.
Another great hindrance to the improvement of
the province in general is, that in many of the
townships large tracts are taken up by officers of
government, and others non-resident in the coun-
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 421
try, for which lands non-residents pay no tax
whatever towards -opening and making roads and
bridges, and other improvements, which subjects
the inhabitants (who must of consequence be
thinly settled) to many serious inconveniences, for
which I see no remedy until a tax is laid upon all
wild lands, which will be the means of bringing
about sales, and actual settlement. It is an idea
with me, and with most of my best informed
acquaintance, that, were government, in place of
giving away lands to actual settlers, in specific
situations, it would be much better to sell them,
which would raise a very large fund for public pur-
poses, besides allowing settlers and emigrants to
place themselves agreeable to their choice and
means.
Should I have answered your queries in a satis*
factory manner, I shall be gratified, and with every
wish for success in your present undertaking,
I have the honour to be, Sir,
Your very obedient Servant,
(Signed) JOHN GARNER, Sen.
Collector for Stamford.
GRANTHAM.
Pursuant to public Notice, a Number of the oldest
Inhabitants assembled, to take into Consideration
your Queries. A Committee being appointed,
422 NIAGARA DISTRICT.
the following Answers were adopted, which, we
presume, will be satisfactory.
3d. One church ; one Presbyterian (non-resi-
dent) ; two travelling preachers (Methodists).
8th. Millers' wages, from 51. to 71. 10s. per
month. Four saw mills ; if logs delivered at the mill,
they take one half the boards ; sawyers' wages,
from 51. to 61. 10s. a month. One carding machine ;
price of carding wool, 6d. per Ib. ; carders' wages,
51. per month.
9th. The soil in its natural state is covered with
a black loam, from three to nine inches deep ; is of
two kinds ; the northern part, a sandy loam; the
other a brown clay, intermixed with marl, generally
rich and productive.
10th. The lands are heavily timbered with white
and red oak ; white pine ; beech ; sugar and white
maple ; red and white elm ; black and white ash ;
white wood ; chestnut ; basswood ; hickory, and
black walnut ; with some cherry, butternut, but-
ton wood, sassafras, iron wood, dog or box wood.
llth. Very few minerals yet discovered. A sa-
line spring near the village of St. Catherine's, of
an excellent quality, has lately been discovered,
and with improvement will be capable of supplying
the district with the valuable article, salt. Iron
bog ore in great plenty ; it is found in low wet
lands; is raised in large lumps, the size of common
stone, and made use of for the backs of fire-places,
in place of stone.
12th. There is a ridge or mountain running along
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 423
the southern boundary of this township, which is
composed of an inexhaustible body of lime, fire and
building stone, which can be obtained at .5s. per
toise at the quarry.
15th. Blacksmiths' work at the rate of 7|d. per
Ib. ; shoeing a horse, 10s.; journeymen black-
smiths, 5l. per month.
18th. Heavy timbered lands, 5l. to 61. 5s. per
acre. Light timbered, from 21. to 5\. per acre.
25th. White clover, red top, and spear grass,
natural to the soil ; but produces red clover and
herds grass, if sown in good crops ; white clover,
best feeding pasture. A good four year old ox
will gain, if attended, from 200 to 250 Ib. ; by
running on the commons, or in the woods, will
gain 150 to 170lb. A milch cow will produce,
(well kept), 8lb. butter, or 14lb. cheese per week.
26th. New land, in its natural state, given from
€ to 10 years ; the owner receiving the improve-
ment for his rent at the expiration of the stated
time. Manure is applied for flax, potatoes, oats,
Indian corn, wheat, and rye.
27th. Improved lands are let out upon shares,
owner furnishing team and utensils, one half the
seed, and receives half the produce. If the owner
furnish land only, to cultivate, he receives one-third
the produce. A single man gets one-third of what
he raises, and found every thing.
28th. Farms of 200 acres, situate on the most
public roads, of a good quality, comfortable house,
good barn, orchard, &c. from 100 to 150 acres
improved, will sell for 61. to 71. 10s. per acre.
424 NIAGARA DISTRICT.
Farms of 100 acres, small house and barn, 60 acres
improved, will sell from 5\. to 61. per acre. Lands
sold in the village of St. Catherine's, the only one
in the township, in 1809, 10, and 11, for 61. 5s. per
acre, now sells from 301. to 2001. for building
lots.
29th. From 3000 to 5000 acres.
30th. Very bad. Capable of being made good
at the rate of from 5s. to 7s. 6d. per rod ; a water
communication within a mile and a half of the
village of St. Catherine's, for boats of 10 tons
burden, say 4 miles, is capable of being extended
and improved, by means of a canal of three miles
distant, which will bring the Chippawa creek into
the Twelve Mile Creek, by which means it will
connect the waters of lake Erie and lake Ontario.
The greatest expence, 10,0001. ; the Twelve Mile
Creek runs by the flourishing village of St. Cathe-
rine's, and is the best stream for mills and ma-
chinery in this district.
31st. The last of your queries is a question of
the greatest importance, and we do not feel our-
selves competent to answer it correctly. The
province was in a most prosperous state at the
commencement of the late war; that of course
injured it in a most serious manner, a stop being
put to all agriculture. It was drained of all its
resources ; money was left in the country, it is
true, but it went but a short way to replace those
necessaries each family stood in need of. Since
then, we conceive the prosperity of the country has
been materially retarded, for the want of its being
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 425
correctly represented to his Majesty's ministers.
In consequence of the stop put to emigration fromn
abroad, hardly a family of wealth or respectability//
has become a settler among us ; but swarms oty/
v
mechanics and labourers overrun the country, and
take to the United States most of the ready
money we have, they finding no inducement to
become settlers from the above restrictions.
We think the removal of the above evil, taxing
non-residents for the lands they hold in the pro-
vince, and the emigration of a few foreigners of
capital, is all that we want at present, to make us a
prosperous and happy people.
In the chair, Mr. W. H. MERRITT.
Committee, Mr. WM. CHISHOLM,
CHARLES INGERSOLL,
WM. MANN, Sen.
AMOS M'KENNEY,
PAUL SHIPMAN.
(Signed)
SAMUEL WOOD, Secretary.
Grantham, St. Catherine's, November 29$, 1817.
LOUTH.
Jan. 5, 1818.
At a Meeting of the Inhabitants of the Township
of Louth, District of Niagara^ and Province
of Upper Canada, held this Day at the House
426 NIAGARA DISTRICT.
of Mr. Robert Runchey, Innkeeper — the Queries
proposed in an Address of Robert Gourlay. Esq.
to the Resident Land- Owners, respecting the
Agricultural State of this Province, were sub-
mitted; and after due Consideration, the follow-
ing Answers were resolved upon, approved of,
ordered to be signed by the Chairman, and for-
warded to R. Gourlay, Esq.
EBENEZER COLLVER, Chairman,
JOHN CLARK, Secretary.
8th. One carding machine. Wool is carded for
6}d. per Ib.
9th. About one half of the township is a clay
soil, the other half a sandy loam, adapted to grass,
wheat, rye, barley, oats, Indian corn, buck wheat,
beans, peas, and potatoes. The soil and climate
throughout the province is favourable to fruit, of
which we have the following — apples, pears,
peaches, nectarines, apricots, plums, cherries,
gooseberries, raspberries, and currants. Grapes
have succeeded well in the Niagara district.
10th. The timber is oak, pine, black walnut,
butternut, beech, maple, cherry, hickory, bass-
wood, ash, and elm.
1 1th. Several salt springs have been discovered in
this township. On the Fifteen and Twenty Mile
Creeks works have been in operation for some years
past; at the Fifteen Mile Creek, for want of proper
attention, they yield but trifling, though we are of
opinion, if they were rightly managed, a sufficiency
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 427
of salt might be made for the use of the township
from that spring alone. Salt, 7s. 6d. per bushel.
12th. Building stone, of an excellent quality,
can be obtained at 5s. per toise, at the quarry,
from a ledge of building, and lime, stone running
along the south side of the township.
17th. Mowing 3s. 9d. per day ; cradling wheat
5s.
25th. The average product of a cow per day is 10
to 12 quarts of milk, and about six pounds of butter
per week from each cow.
26th. New land, when cleared, is never plough-
ed ; the wheat is sowed, and harrowed in after the
crop is taken off the following year; then pas-
tured, and the next year ploughed and sowed :
manure is seldom used until the land becomes
somewhat exhausted.
27th. There are several farms in the township
let upon shares, the land proprietor getting one-
third of the produce.
29th. There is no land at present offered for
sale ; but should purchasers appear, no doubt sales
would take place. A farm of 200 acres, with a
house and barn, 60 acres cleared Dr improved,
with a small orchard, will sell for «£750.
30th. The roads principally travelled are capable
of being made good at a small ex pence, and we do
conceive that sufficient attention has not been
paid to that particular. The manner in which
the statute labour is performed on them is quite
inadequate to the importance of the object.
We have three water communications with lake
428 NIAGARA DISTRICT.
Ontario, say the Fifteen, Sixteen, and Twenty Mile
Creeks, running through this township, and are na-
vigable in their present state for boats of from five to
20 tons burden. The Twenty Mile Creek is quite
navigable to the centre of the township for boats of
20 tons burden, and is capable of being improved by
locks and canals, by which means a water commu-
nication may be carried on between lakes Erie and
Ontario, atatrifling expence, considering the import-
ance of the thing. This creek abounds with fine
fish, say salmon, bass, pike, pickerel, eels, mullets,
suckers, perch, and many other small fish.
Above the navigable waters of this creek are
many excellent mill seats unoccupied.
3 1st. We conceive the improvement of this
township and the province in general is much
retarded, from .arge tracts of wild lands holden by
persons residing in Europe, Lower Canada, and
the United Sta:es, who do not in any way contri-
bute towards the revenue or improvement of the
country.
The statute labour is performed entirely by the
people residirg in the township, as also the revenue
is raised from the same.
The evil ,ust mentioned, and great want of
capital in oir township, is what most retards the
improvemen; of it.
N. B. Wt know of but one instance of men of
capital that have purchased lands to any extent in
this province. A company of Dutchmen pur-
chased a block of land on the Grand river, now
called the township of Waterloo. The province,
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 429
generally speaking, is composed of discharged sol-
diers, who served during the American revolution,
and emigrants from the United States : most of the
iatter are what are termed U. E. loyalists, all of
whom had but little to begin with.
Further. We have known men going into new
lands, pay for the same, by manufacturing the ashes
made from the timber burnt in clearing their
farms.
(Signed) EBENEZER COLLVER,
Chairman.
By order, JOHN CLARK,
Secretary.
GRIMSBY.
Two carding machines ; two fulling mills ; card-
ing wool, per pound, 6d. The soil very good for
wheat, rye, oats, pease, buck wheat, flax, Indian
corn, and grass. The timber is white pine, white
and red oak, hickory, ash, elm, sugar and soft
maple, chestnut, butternut, beech, and iron wood.
Price of reaping and mowing, per day, 5s. ; for
cradling, 6s. Twenty-five bushels an acre from
new land, 15 from old land. If let on shares, if
new, give the first crop for clearing and fencing ; if
old land, give one-third of the crop : land improved,
according to the situation, say from 11. to 41. per
acre. Quantity of land for sale unknown, but a
430 NIAGARA DISTRICT.
great deal. State of the roads at present is bad,
but may be made good at a moderate expence.
As to what retards the improvement of our
township is, that the whole of the township is
located, and a great deal of land in the township
for sale, but no buyers ; and the province in ge-
neral, is the small commerce, and the low prices of
what we have to export, and the high prices of
what we have imported.
(Signed) ANDREW PETTIT,
Town Clerk of Township of Grimsby.
A SECOND REPORT WAS SENT TO ME FROM
GRIMSBY, OF WHICH THE FOLLOWING ARE
EXTRACTS.
As to population, I may with propriety say
that there would have been at least one-third or a
half more, had the laws of the British Parliament,
for the encouragement of the colonization of this
fine province, been allowed to take their full scope;
but for what reason or cause some of our rulers
have, by a dash of the pen, endeavoured to abro-
gate some of the wisest statutes that ever emanated
from the British senate ; or whether, from political
motives, or with a mistaken notion of the interests
or security of the province, or by what other mo-
tives they have been actuated I know not, but it
has been endeavoured, in the face of a British
statute, to interdict the admission of people com-
ing from the United States, avowedly with the
2
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 431
intention of becoming subjects, by taking the oaths
of allegiance, and settling in the country. These
reasons, Sir, will go a great way in elucidating your
query, of " What are the causes that retard the
settlement of the country." Let these prohibitions
be done away, and proclaim the high way from
which this country can derive an efficacious po-
pulation, open, and wealth and prosperity will
again smile upon it. It has been said, but with-
out foundation, that it is not safe to admit Ameri-
cans amongst us ; that their politics are dangerous
to our monarchical institutions, and that if encou-
ragement were given to them, they would ultimate-
ly become dangerous to the government ; but I
would beg leave to tell such, that if it had not
been for Americans, or emigrants from thence,
immediately after the rebellion, and long since,
that this fine country, now so flourishing, would
in all probability be yet a howling wilderness ; and
let me further tell, that such men, and their im-
mediate descendants, behaved during the late war
with the United States, with as much fidelity and
loyalty to his Majesty's government as any natural
born subject could do ; and had it not been for their
zeal and gallantry, we might perhaps at this time
been a province of America, and enjoying all the
blessings of republican fraternity. Thus debarred
from getting a wealthy and industrious emigration
from the United States, the country is in a great
measure left to its own natural means of population.
Another cause which may be named as powerfully
operating against the settlement of the country gene-
432 NIAGARA DISTRICT.
rally, is the large and fine portions of it which are
locked up as crown and clergy reserves. Large
tracts are likewise held by the o rs of g 1
and absentees, who will not sell but at an exorbi-
tant price, thus putting it out of the power of the
industrious poor man to add his mite to the general
advancement and prosperity of the colony.
Religion, I am sorry to say, has hitherto been but
of secondary consideration. This, however, is
not to be ascribed to the general immoral character
of the people, who are naturally of pious and or-
derly habits ; but is to be attributed more to the
seeming disregard of the head of the established
church in the Canadas, under whose immediate
care and protection it more especially belongs ; and
although this parish is one of the few which can
boast of a church regularly dedicated to the form
of the worship of the church of England, we have
the mortification to say, that in twenty years we
have had but one solitary visit from the lord bishop
of the diocese. While such apathy prevailed
for the advancement of the interest of the mother
church, other sects and denominations were not
idle, and the result has proved, that their labours
have been but too successful ; as our church con-
gregation, which was once respectable, is now al-
most dwindled to nought. One good thing, how-
ever, has resulted to us from his lordship's visit.
A representation was drawn up to him by the
parishioners, requesting a clergyman ; upon which
one was sent us from England last spring; and al-
though his efforts have not hitherto added to the
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 433
number of the congregation, yet he has served to
keep the remnant of the flock from the jaws of the
all-devouring wolf; and if proper perseverance is
shewn, the good cause may yet ultimately prevail.
Independent of the regular church there is one of
the Methodist denomination, which is generally
numerously attended. The Baptists are likewise
a numerous body in the parish ; but having as yet
no public place of worship, their meetings are for
the most part held in private houses; but the pre-
vailing religion of this township may be classed
under Presbyterians and Methodists.
The state of education is also at a very low ebb,
not only in this township, but generally through-
out the district ; although the liberality of the le-
gislature has been great in support of the district
schools, (giving to the teachers of each 1001.
per annum), yet they have been productive of
little or no good hitherto, for this obvious cause,
they are looked upon as seminaries exclusively
instituted for the education of the children of the
more wealthy classes of society, and to which the
poor man's child is considered as unfit to be ad-
mitted. From such causes, instead of their being
a benefit to the province, they are sunk into ob-
scurity, and the heads of most of them are at this
moment enjoying their situations as comfortable
sinecures. Another class of schools has within
a short time been likewise founded upon the
liberality of the legislative purse, ^denominated
common or parish schools, but like the preceding,
the anxiety of the teacher employed, seems more
FF
434 NIAGARA DISTRICT,
alive to his stipend than the advancement of the
education of those placed under his care: from the
pecuniary advantages thus held out, we have been
inundated with the worthless scum, under the cha-
racter of schoolmasters, not only of this, but of
every other country where the knowledge has
been promulgated, of the easy means our laws af-
ford of getting a living here, by obtaining a parish
school, which is done upon the recommendation
of some few freeholders, getting his salary from
the public, and making his employers contribute
handsomely besides.
It is true, rules are laid down for their govern-
ment, and the proper books prescribed for their
use ; but scarcely in one case in ten are they ad-
hered to, for in the same class you will frequently
see one child with Noah Webster's spelling book
in his hand, and the next with Lindley Murray's.
However prone the teachers are to variety in their
schools, much blame is to be attributed to the
trustees, who are in many instances too careless,
and I might almost add too ignorant to discriminate
right from wrong, in the trust they have under-
taken for the public benefit. It is therefore not
to be wondered at why the parish school system
should meet with almost universal reprobation from
most discerning men.
Of these parish schools, we are burdened with
a liberal share, having no less than three of them.
If the establishment of this system was meant by
the legislature to abbreviate the present enormous
price of education, they have been miserably de-
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 435
ceived; for I can see no alteration or reduction
from the charge made before the passing of the act.
The price then was 12s. 6d., and is now the same
per quarter.
We have hitherto been blessed with so healthy
a climate, as to require little or no aid from medi-
cal men, the consequence, therefore, is, that there
is none in the parish, the nearest to us being six
miles, whose practice is not too lucrative from the
country 12 miles round.
Fulling is regulated by the quality of the dye,
and description of work bestowed on the yard of
cloth; but may be estimated at from Is. 6d. to
3s. per yard when finished.
No minerals of any consequence have yet been
discovered, although the face of the country in-
dicates it as favourable to such productions. In
many parts, salt springs have shewn themselves,
and little doubt exists but the solid strata of this
necessary article lays at no great depth below the
surface. On the summit of the ridge numerous
specimens of marine fossils, and petrifactions, are
to be found, all which indicate that the country has,
at some remote period, been covered with water.
With respect to the advantages possessed by
this township for internal communication, or na-
vigation, nature indeed has been lavish of her gifts,
both in a commercial and political point of view.
It is washed by lake Ontario in front, which af-
fords a good roadstead for the vessels that come to
carry off the superabundant produce of the country.
From the lake to the village, where the principal
F F 9
436 NIAGARA DISTRICT.
mills are established, is about a mile, and from
here vessels carrying 6 or 800 barrels of flour, are
generally loaded in a day ; but this is of minor
importance to what nature has done for its interior.
After you ascend to the summit of the mountain,
to where the creek makes a rumbling fall of about
2,5 feet, it immediately becomes, by the help of a
small dam, a natural navigable canal, running in a
southerly direction towards the Chippawa, which
in a right line does not exceed a distance of nine
miles from the fall just mentioned: through this
tract there is no difficulty whatever in uniting the
waters of the Chippawa with those of the Forty
Mile Creek, there being no rising ground be-
tween them, and the make of the country has a
gentle descent to facilitate the run of the water
to lake Ontario. Indeed, were it necessary, I might
have extended my views of its superior internal
advantages from the Chippawa to the Grand river,
a distance of only six miles more, which has al-
ready been surveyed, and a fall of between six
and seven feet has been ascertained in this short
distance.
So strongly are the inhabitants of this and the
neighbouring townships convinced of the practica-
bility of it, that measures have been taken at their
own ex pence to have a survey made of the most
advantageous ground between the nearest points
of the Forty Mile Creek and Chippawa. Was this
communication once opened, its political import-
ance would immediately manifest itself in the
event of a future war, as affording a safe and direct
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 437
inland navigation from this part of lake Ontario
to the naval establishment at the mouth of
the Grand river. Its commercial advantages
would be the opening a short and safe route for
the produce of the country west of the Grand
river and the upper parts of lake Erie into lake
Ontario. Thus, in both cases, avoiding the dan-
gerous coast navigation, and the circuitous route
of the Niagara, subject at all times in case of war
to the inroads and obstructions of the enemy.
Before the late war with the United States, the
roads generally throughout the country were very
bad, duriug the existence of which, the public
service very often suffered by it. The common
way of opening, making, and keeping roads in
repair, is by statute labour, apportioned to the
assessments or rates paid by the householders in
each township. Thus, if a person is assessed to the
amount of £100, his proportion of labour for that
year is six days, and so on in proportion as his
rates advance, until it amounts to twelve days,
which is the highest, and which seems alto-
gether out of reason, compared with the poor m^n,
whose smallest quantum is three days, and wh- se
assessment is perhaps a cow, value ;3d. tax. This
system has long since been found rotten, and has
been often attempted to be m>- uerated by the
legislature at different times ; but hitherto, with
little advantage to the public ; and the reason s in
some degree evident, for when a man is order, d
to do his statute labour on the highways, he con-
siders it as so much of his time lost, or of no protit
438 NIAGARA DISTRICT.
to him : hence arises the indifference with which
he does his day's labour, and it often happens that
the most rigid overseer (who is elected annually
from the parish), cannot get even the most willing
of his party to do justice to his task. It is true
that the law provides for a commutation in money
in lieu of labour, at a certain fixed rate per day ;
but this is seldom resorted to. The road laws
being thus radically bad, would require radical
revision. One essential step towards effecting
this improvement in our road police, and which
is of the greatest importance towards the internal
improvement and prosperity of the country, would
be to abolish the present system of personal labour,
and substitute a certain moderate rate in money
per diem, in lieu thereof. The sum thus assessed
in cash, and judiciously expended under proper
superintendance, would be the means of improving
the roads yearly, far more than the present system,
and I am convinced would give much more satis-
faction to the public, and the tax would be paid
with cheerfulness.
At the close of the late war, the legislature with
great liberality granted such a sum of money for
the improvement of the principal roads in the dis-
trict, which in the opinion of discerning men,
would have (if judiciously expended) almost turn-
piked the whole of them : but it is a melancholy
fact, that much of it was expended where it was
not wanted ; and where improvement was actually
required, in many instances totally neglected.
In mowing and harvest, the price of labour is
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 439
mostly governed by the demand ; but in all cases
they never fail to make you pay well, for I have
known in many instances, and successive seasons,
two dollars per day paid to a mower or cradler.
The wages of this class of people in the district
of Niagara, (for I do not confine my observation to
this parish alone) are exorbitant, and far beyond
what the present prices of the products of the
country will or can bear ; hence the necessity of
bringing all these species of labour to a proper
level, by giving encouragement to emigration into
the province of this class of people.
In your queries there are a number of the me-
chanics whom you have not noticed, and whom
you may probably not conceive as necessary to
your purpose, but who, I assure you, deserve as
conspicuous a place in your statistical pages as any
other. Among them I may enumerate weavers,
tailors, shoemakers, &c. I have often heard my
neighbours assert, that it was full as cheap to go to
the store and buy English broad cloth as to make
homespun, for this obvious reason, that by the
time it went through the hands of the carder, the
spinner, the weaver, the fuller, and the dyer, it
cost him more per yard than the English, and ge-
nerally of inferior quality.
A woman has from six to eight dollars per
month for home-work, and for spinning nearly as
much. The weaver has, for weaving a yard of
common flannel, from Is. to Is. 6d. The tailor
has from four to five dollars for making you a coat,
and in proportion for other garments ; and a shoe-
440 NIAGARA DISTRICT.
maker will ask you three dollars for a pair of shoes.
From this statement you will not be much sur-
prised at the rapidity with which all kinds of me-
chanics accumulate property, and slip as it were at
once into a state of ease and affluence unknown to
the European mechanic of the same description,
who very frequently has not, when Saturday night
comes round, to afford from his labour wherewithal
to afford a scanty pittance to pass the Sabbath
before he again resumes his weekly toil. These
are the sort of people whose emigration to this
country ought to be encouraged in preference to
most others, for they would become doubly useful,
first, as being the means of reducing the price of
mechanical labour, and secondly, as ultimately be-
coming good settlers, from the knowledge they
would acquire of the customs and habits of the
country, and at the same time enriching himself by
his trade.
Although there are large tracts uncultivated in
the township, yet literally speaking, there is little
or none for sale. The uncultivated tracts, belong-
ing mostly to the early settlers, who, perhaps, an-
ticipating a numerous offspring, prudently pro-
vided, when in their power, for what is to come.
Nor, has their foresight been ill judged, for their
lands are now more or less falling under cultivation,
almost daily, by their children. The price, how-
ever, of wild land, may be taken at from three to
six dollars, according to situation and quality, but
oftener over than under these prices. At the com-
mencement of the settlement, lands may be said to
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 441
have had no value; but from the year 1794- to 1800,
the price was from 25 to 100 dollars for 200 acres ;
since which it has been progressively rising, so
that the same cannot now be bought at an advance
of from 6 to 800 per cent. ; and as the government
grants diminish, there is no saying to what height
they may attain ; but more especially if American
emigration is permitted.
The late war having drained the country of
horses, horned cattle, and sheep, their prices have
continued high; but the stock being now nearly
equal to what it was, prior to that event, they have
declined.
Your obedient Servant,
WM. CROOKS.
Grimaby, January IZth, 1818.
To Mr. ROBERT GOURI.AY, Queenston.
PELHAM.
8th. In this township there is one fulling mill,
and one carding machine. The price of inch boards
(pine) is ,5s. per 100 feet, 3 quarters ditto, 3s. 9d.
per 100 feet ; when timber, taken to the mill, saw-
yers charge 2s. 6d. per 100 feet for inch boards.
The price of wool carding has been 6^d. per Ib.
this season.
9th. The northern part of this township is rather
uneven, or it may, perhaps, more properly be deno-
minated hilly, but watered with excellent springs :
442 NIAGARA DISTRICT.
the southern part is very even, or level, and not so
well supplied with water. With respect to soils,
we may name them in the following order: sand,
loam, clay, and gravel.
10th. There is a variety of timber produced in this
township ; among the most useful kinds we enu-
merate the following: beech, white oak, pine,
sugar maple, elm, chestnut, ash, hickory, and
poplar.
llth. In the southern part, iron ore, of that kind
denominated bog, has been discovered in small
quantities : we know not of any other minerals,
except a small sulphur spring.
12th. In the northern part of the township are im-
mense quarries of limestone, and two quarries of
freestone have been opened lately.
15th. The price of an axe, 12s. 6d. ; the price of a
hoe, 5s. ; shoeing a horse, 2s. 6d. per shoe ; making
log, or ox chains, lid. per Ib.
17th. Price of mowing grass, 3s. 9d. per day ;
reaping, 3s. 9d. per day ; cradling, 5s. per day.
26th. On low lands, where the growth of timber
has been principally beech and maple, grass seed is
sown with the first crop of wheat, and the land
kept under grass, either for pasture or mowing, for
four or five years, or until the roots are sufficiently
decayed to admit of ploughing; it is then broken
up, and sown with wheat, and then put under
grass for two, three, or four years. On high sandy
or gravelly lands, where the growth of timber is
chiefly oak, pine, and chestnut, the land is sown
with rye immediately after the first crop of wheat
3
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 443
is taken off; but where the quantity of cleared
land is so small, there is scarcely such a thing as a
regular course of cropping ; the necessities of the
farmer will seldom admit of it. Little attention
has been paid to the manuring of land in this
township ; one farmer, the last season, made a trial
of plaster of Paris, brought from the Grand river
(on a small scale), both on wheat and grass ; the
success was such as to encourage a future trial.
When manure is used, it is generally to promote
the growth of Indian corn and potatoes.
27th. Letting land upon shares is not practised to
any extent ; when let, the landlord reserves one-
third of the produce.
28th. When the settlement of this township com-
menced, wild land was selling at 61. 10s. per one
hundred acres ; in the year 1800, at 10s. per acre ;
the present price is 40s. per acre. The quantity
of land for sale now does not seem to be easily
ascertained, though we believe the quantity to be
small.
30th. The roads in this township are not in a
great degree of forwardness, but capable of great
improvement at a small expence.
AMOS CHAPMAN, ELI BRADSHAW,
ZENAS FELL, AMOS SCOTT,
ELIJAH PFIELPS, JOSEPH WILLSON,
GEORGE BRADSHAW, LEWIS WILLSON,
PETER BECKETT, THADDEUS DAVIS.
SAMUEL BECKETT, STEPHEN BECKETT,
JESSE WILLSON, JOHN M'GLASHEN.
JOHN TAYLOR,
Pelham, Dec. 6, 1817.
444 NIAGARA DISTRICT.
POSTSCRIPT.
The ridge, as it is called in this township, is the
highest land in the district, being 500 i'eet higher
than lake Ontario: it commences about half a
mile east of the eastern limit of the township, and
extends westwardly nearly four miles; the base is
generally two miles in width ; the ascent on the
northern side is mostly pretty abrupt, but on the
southern side much more gentle and easy. The
soil upon this ridge is generally, and for the most
part, of the coarsest kind; when first cleared, yields
excellent wheat, though not in large quantities;
it produces rye, buckwheat, and Indian corn. From
the same point, on the eastern extremity of this
ridge, may be seen the two great lakes Erie and
Ontario ; and in calm weather, the mist of the
cataract, rising like a cloud in the eastern horizon.
It was over this section of this township the
dreadful tornado, on Sunday, the 1st of July, 1792,
passed, which laid prostrate almost every tree that
stood in its course. Before this, it was covered
with chestnut, oak, and some pine timber, and was
reckoned, on account of its openness, being entirely
free from underwood, the handsomest tract of land
in the township. Since the hurricane, it has fre-
quently been burned, which destroys the young
timber, a majority of which is a kind, here deno-
minated, asp or aspen.
I am, your most devoted Servant,
ELI BRADSHAW,
Mr. Robert Gourlay.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 445
THOROLD.
WE the inhabitants of the township of Thorold,
at a meeting held at Thorold for the purpose, give
the following as a true description of the said town-
ship.
The face of the land is level : the chief part of
the timber beech and sugar maple, with plenty of
white pine and oak ; black walnut ; and a variety
of other timber.
The soil chiefly clay and loam; produces, be-
sides wheat, pease, good oats, barley, rye, Indian
corn, and buckwheat. Our meadows generally
yield from one to three tons of timothy and clover
hay per acre ; and our fields afford good pasture
from the 1st of May to the 1st of December, four
months being the ordinary time for feeding cattle in
the winter.
m
The price of beef is five dollars per lOOlb.
There is in the township one oil mill, and 2 carding
machines.
The present price for an improved or cultivated
farm, say 200 acres, with good buildings and
orchard, from 15 to 25 dollars per acre.
To MR. ROBERT GOURLAY.
This short and simple statement of the above
township, is at your service to correct and publish,
if you think proper, as it is attested by twelve of
the most respectable inhabitants.
GARRET VANDERJJVRGH, Town Clerk.
JACOB UPPER, ANTHONY UPPER,
JOHN DECOU, And nine others.
Thorold, %6th Aot>. 1817.
2
446 NIAGARA DISTRICT.
CROWLAND.
Crowland, Dec. 23, 1817.
MR. ROBERT GOURLAY.
SIR,
PURSUANT to your inclination, and
anxious to facilitate the good of our country, I
offer the following reply to your address of the
30th of October last. Being unable to obtain a
meeting for the purpose, I took the task on myself,
which I could wish to have been performed by an
abler hand. I have taken the subsequent signature
of a few creditable inhabitants of this township,
who casually fell in my way.
JOSEPH CURRANT,
Town Clerk.
9th. The soil is various, and much given to grass,
consisting of white, blue, and red clay, black and
grey sand, in spots, coming near to gravel it-
self, black mould, and yellow loam ; all these are
sometimes found in the compass of an acre, but
clay is most prevalent. The surface remarkably
level, except two spots near the southern limit,
where it approaches to small eminences.
10th. The ground in its uncultivated state is tim-
bered with white oak, swamp white oak, Spanish or
red oak, sugar and red maple, bass or linden, beech,
hickory, and iron wood, and in some places, heavy
growths of white pine ; in others, a species of sy-
camore, some butternut, black walnut, elm, and
black and white ash.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 447
llth. The only mineral found here is bog iron
ore in small quantities, frequently in marshy places;
springs of a saline tincture are frequent.
15th. Ox chains and irons, &c. are sold for
Is. 3d, per Ib. Carpenters have 10s. per hundred
for framing ; bricklayers, 7s. 6d. per day, and 10s.
per 1000 for laying.
16th. Women's wages, per week, for house work,
7s. 6d. ; for spinning, 6s. 3d. The cradler's wages,
per day, for cutting wheat, is one bushel of the
same, or its price ; the reapers three-fourths ; the
mowers of grass for hay the same.
18th. Wood lands are cleared and fenced for
31. 2s. 6d. per acre, board, lodging, and the use of
team, given withal.
26th. Manure is best applied to land in winter,
while in grass.
27th. A cropper on new lands, customarily takes
three successive yearly crops for his labour, of clear-
ing and fencing ; when the cropper breaks the land
from grass, the owner of the soil commonly claims
one-third of the crop.
A farm let on shares brings to its owner one-
third of all the grain, with half the hay it produces ;
this is little practised, as most people can have land
of their own.
28th. A farm of 100 acres, nearly contiguous to
mills, with about 40 cleared, and very mean build-
ings, was lately sold for 3121. 10s.
As a price would purchase all the lands in the
township, so the quantity for sale is limited. Most
of the public roads are capable of beneficial im-
provement, at a tolerable expence.
448 NIAGARA DISTRICT.
30th. Lyons creek, a sluggish stream of blackish
water, rises in the swamps an d marshes of Humber-
ston and Wainfleet, near lake Erie, and entering
Crowland at its southern limit, passes through at a
north-easterly direction, falls into Chippawa one mile
above its mouth in the township of Willoughby,
from whence it is navigable for boats and batteaux
seven miles up, where it furnishes an excellent
mill seat, occupied by Cook's mills. Here is a
town in embryo ; this spot claims notice as being
the place of a brisk action between a detachment
of the British army and that of the Americans, on
the morning of the 19th Oct, 1814. Two miles
above this, on the bank of the creek, near Hum-
berston, is a spring whereof salts have been made,
reputed to be equal in quality, as an aperient, to
Glauber's sajts. This spring is capable of pro-
ducing large quantities.
Nature invites art, in strong terms, to open a
canal between lake Erie and this creek, promising
the expence to be inconsiderable, as well as reduce
the carriage of commodities, from about 42 miles
to 19, and render the navigation entirely safe, be-
sides conveying pure water through this part of the
country, which is a very desirable object.
31st. Lack of money, and something to expel a
torpid spirit, most impedes the improvement of this
township, and perhaps the province in general ;
plenty of cash in circulation, and a proper stimu-
lation to enterprise, it is believed, would be the
best applicable remedy.
CALVIN COOK, RICHARD YOKOM,
SAMUEL YOKOM, And eigkt others.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 449
WAINFLEET.
2CM/i Dec. 1817.
SIR,
WE the undersigned, according to the
request of your circular letter of October, called a
meeting of the inhabitants of the township of
Wainfleet, and resolved on the following answers to
your queries.
9th. Generally clay soil.
10th. Timber — beech and maple, interspersed
with hickory, oak, walnut, pine, black and white
ash.
llth. No minerals discovered ; a great quantity
of limestone of the very best quality.
12th. Abundance of building stone of the best
kind, at 10s. per toise.
16th. Women servants per week for house work
.5s. ; spinning 3s. 9d.
17th. Price of mowing and reaping 3s. 9d. ;
cradling wheat 5s. per day.
25th. The quality of our pasture is principally
white clover and timothy; this most generally rises
spontaneously.
26th. When cleared, the land is sowed without
ploughing, only harrowed in ; after this first crop,
it must remain three years in pasture, in order to rot
out the roots ; the land is sufficiently strong to
bear 10 or 15 years without manure.
28th. There are 22 square miles of marsh land
owned by government, which if drained, would be
G G
450 NIAGARA DISTRICT.
preferable to any other land in the province for
growing hemp, &c.; its soil or surface is three feet
deep ; it lies almost as high as the highest land
between it and the river Welland, which river is
Id feet lower than the said marsh, at the distance
of two miles therefrom, and several creeks of con-
siderable magnitude run out of said marsh into
the river Welland, and also to lake Erie : if the
heads of these creeks were opened a small distance
into said marsh, it would sufficiently drain the
land for a considerable distance around them ; at
each and every of those creeks so running from said
marsh, would be excellent mill seats, that would
be of the greatest consequence ; the whole expence
of draining this marsh would not exceed 60s.
average the whole per acre.
29th. There is about four thousand acres of land
owned by individuals for sale.
30th. Our roads are in a bad state, but capable
of much improvement, at a moderate expence.
On the north side of township is river Welland;
the depths of the river 15 to 25 feet, and breadth
on an average 300. It is a complete water con-
veyance ; also there might be a canal cut from the
said Welland across the marsh. To Morgan's bay,
in lake Erie, the distance is 6 miles and 28 chains :
said canal commencing 16 miles from mouth of
said Welland, which would be 20 miles short of
the present route : we are of opinion that said
canal might be furnished with water out of said
marsh, sufficient to carry craft fully 20 tons bur-
den : said canal would not require to be cut
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 451
exceeding 6 feet deep ; also an excellent road
naturally would be made with the earth thrown
out of said canal, which would be of the greatest
service to this and the adjoining townships, as it at
present prevents any communication without
going the distance of 23 miles, whereas it could
be accomplished by the short route of 6 miles and
28 chains, by said road passing along said canal.
31st. The above described marsh divides our
township into two separate settlements ; the one
on the shore of lake Erie, and the other on the
south side of the river Welland, which marsh, if
opened as described, would remove this obstacle.
As to the province in general, a number of
causes might be assigned ; but one great obstacle
is the tardiness of emigration from Europe; whereas
if our country was peopled according to its extent,
we then would calculate on manufactures to be
set on foot for the employ of artisans and mecha-
nics, which would give more encouragement to
the husbandman to prosecute his labours, and
would become a reciprocal interest to both parties.
(Signed)
DAVID THOMSON, Assessor,
THOMAS PRIESTMAN, Clerk.
STEPHEN M. FARR, Collector.
SHUBAL PARK, King's Deputy Surveyor.
CG2
452 NIAGARA DISTRICT,
CANBORO' AND CAISTOR.
At a Meeting of the principal Inhabitants of the
lowmhips of Canboro' and Caistor, held at
Canboro', 1st December, 1817, for the Purpose
of taking into Consideration the Queries ad-
dressed to the resident Land Owners of Upper
Canada, by Robert Gourlay, Esq. William
Robertson in the Chair, the following Replies
were given.
1st. THE township of Canboro' is within the
Indian reserve, and is bounded by Caistor, and
part of Wainfleet on the north, by lands of Lord
Selkirk on the east, by Indian lands on the Grand
river south, and by Indian lands on the west,
contains 19,000 acres of land, and has the Oswego
creek, which empties itself into the Chippawa creek,
about one mile and a half from the north-east cor-
ner, running through it. The township of Caistor
is bounded by Canboro' on the south, &c. The
Chippawa creek runs through the front conces-
sions, the length of the township. It contains about
20,000 acres.
8th. Inch boards sell at present in the propor-
tion of one dollar per hundred feet, of one inch.
9th. With the exception of bottom lands on the
creeks, which are a rich black loam, the uplands
are generally a clayey loam, with a flat surface,
and, where not cleared or drained, are wet.
10th. Timber — is pine, oak, maple, beech, ash,
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 453
hickory, elm, basswood, black walnut, cherry, and
butternut.
llth. One salt spring in Canboro'. In both
townships 'many salt licks, some bog ore, and a
little limestone.
12th. No building stone.
15th. Where iron is taken to the blacksmith, he
works it at the rate of 7|d. per Ib. ; if he finds it,
Is. 3d. per Ib.
16th. Women servants 5s. 7id. per week, for
house work, and 6s. 3d. for spinning.
17th. Mowing grass 3s. 9d. per day ; reaping or
cradling of wheat 5s. per day.
18th. The cost of clearing five acres of wood-
land, one foot and under (the mode in this part of
the country), and fencing by contract, would be
35 dollars.
25th. Pasture, either natural or improved, is
excellent.
26th. Wheat upon new lands, with grass seeds,
broken up when it is thought the stumps are
rotten, generally in about four years, and again
put in wheat. Manure is applied for wheat and
potatoes, on old lands.
28th. Where lands are partially cleared, say 15
acres in the 100, they sell, on Oswego Creek, at
5 dollars per acre.
29th. In Canboro' 7000 acres of wild and 3000
with partial improvements; in Caistor, about 15,000
acres of wild.
30th. Our public roads are in a bad state.
They may be much improved at a moderate
454 NIAGARA DISTRICT.
expence, if judiciously laid out. Our water
conveyance is equal to any in the country ; by the
Oswego and by the Chippawa Creek (which is a
natural canal) loaded boats may be brought up
from 40 to 50 miles. This conveyance might be
much extended and improved by a canal cut from
the Grand river into the Oswego, a distance of
five miles, without a hill or stone.
31st. Bad roads very much retard the improve-
ment of our settlement: we want men and means.
We suppose this to be the case with the country in
general.
WILLIAM ROBERTSON, Chairman.
SUMMARY OF POPULATION, &C.
The Statistical Table exhibits 11 . • People-
townships, containing . . 8398
1312 houses, make an average of
Humberstone contains, houses
Wainfleet v . •;»• ,, J ^
Which, multiplied by 6|, gives » 941
9339
The townships of the district not
reported, are Niagara, Clinton,
Gainsboro' and Wedderburn. The
three first being old settled town-
ships, may average with the above
at 763 each . . . . . -2289
But we must add to the popula*
tion of Niagara township that of its
two villages Niagara and Queen-
ston. In 1817 the former contain-
ed, houses . •••• . . * " 85
The latter, ditto >/ . . . 27
112
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 455
On the supposition that in vil-
lages such as these the number in
family is increased by servants,
shopmen, &c. it is fair to multiply
by 8
896
Wedderburn has been settling
these two last years ; but in 1817 I
presume it did not contain more
than four families V i . 24
12,548
The greater part of Wedderburn is occupied with
what is called Cranberry Marsh, wholly unfit for
cultivation till extensive drainage is executed. It
extends into Wainfleet. The late Hon. Robert
Hamilton, of Queenston, offered to complete the
drainage, for half the land given to him in recom-
pense ; but this liberal offer, which would have
greatly benefited the country, was refused by the
land-board ! ! It remains a harbour for wolves, and
otherwise a great nuisance.
For the reported population of 9,339, there ap-
pear to be eight places of worship and ten preach-
ers : viz. five Methodists; one Menonist; one
Quaker ; two Presbyterians ; and one Episcopalian.
There are six medical practitioners ; 46 schools;
and 33 taverns.
Improvement is said to be retarded in five re-
ports by want of people : in three reports by want
of money : in three reports by large tracts of land
owned by non-occupants: in two reports by the
prevention of emigration from the United States :
in two reports by bad roads : in one report by the
crown and clergy reserves : in one report by giving
away land instead of selling it: in one report by
the land being all located, and no buyers : in one
report by the war.
456
STATISTICAL
Composed of Extracts from the Township
WAGES OF
Names of
Townships.
When Settled.
Inhabited Houses.
I
"3
1
No. of Churches or
Places of Worship.
No. of Preachers.
No. of Medual
Practitioner*.
No. of Schools.
Fees per Ouarter.
No. of Stores.
No. of Taverns.
No.ofGrist Mills.
.2
ji
'•z
r--
"6
^
Prices of Bricks
per 1000.
Prices of Lime per
blishrl.
J*
1*9
18
a S
Masons per day.
Carpenters p.day.
Commen Labour-
ers per Annum.
*. d.
i
*. d.
s.d.
PrM.
*. d. s. d.
£.».
lumber-
1
f •-
I
stone ..
1787
75
..
11 Men.
()
0
13 9
2 2
1
\
37 8
5 0
10 010 0
30 0
Men.
Bertie ..
178*
200
1600
!<?..
,
,
11 3
8
1
3
5
30 0
1 3
8 9
6 3
27 6
*
i
Willough-
by ....
1784
63
441
0
0
0
1
12 6
1
1
0
2
30 0
••
4 10
6 3
6 d
••
Stamford .
1784
165
1800
1 P.
1 P.
2
*
15 0
§
5
1
1
30 0
0 7J
4 10
6 3
50
25 0
Grantham
1784
200
,,00
1 P.
-
2
G
12 C
3
6
3
4
SO 0
07i
6 0
100
7 6
27 10
Lowth ..
1787
130
700
0
0
0
3
3
J
2
5
30 0
0 7$
6 0
6 8
6 8
25 C
Grimsby .
1787
149
805
1 E.
IE.
1 M.
0
.
13 0
4
2
4
6
25 0
o 74
5 0
-•
."
25 0
Pelham..
1780
ISO
776
1Q.
0
0
6
12 6
2
1
,
6
25 0
1 0
5 0
6 3
5 0
J.SS 0
I
PrD.
IP.
s.d.
Thorold..
1788
150
830
1
i&
0
9
4
a
1
4
•«
"
6 3
6 3
63
••
Cropland.
1788
84
600
1M.
0
1
2
10 0
1
1
1
1
37 6
1 3
5 0
7 6
50
30 0
Wain-
Canboro'
1803
flft
190
and
Caistor ..
1782
23
156
O
SM.
0
2
12 6
1
1
1
4
95 01 3
••
7 6
610
Totals.
..
1459
8398
8
10
6
46
134 6
38
33
30
41
330 2
8 1
23 9
&351.
S3 11
69 9
269 16
Averag-
ed by
...
13
11
11
11
9
3 & 7
11
11
10
Averages
••
112
772
••
-
-
"
12 2J
»
„
»
"
30 C
101
7 11
& 51.
7 6
6 4
26 19
Q. iii columns fifth and sixth stands for Quaker ; Men. for Menonist ;
* Although I have entered this sum as it stands in the report; yet, as the reporters
have calculated only from the number of houses, and allowed eight persons to each house1
TABLE.
457
Reports of the District of Niagara.
WAGES OF
1 Cost of clearing and
fencing five Acres
of wild Land.
PRICES OF LIVE STOCK.
i
•$.
11
P
1 Price of Wool per Ib.
1 Produce of wheat in
| bushels, per acre.
| An Ox will grain in
j a Summer's run.
I Price of Butter,
| per Ib.
1 Price of ClKese.
per Ib.
1
t*
{ Price of Laud per 1
Acre, DOW.
(Common Labour-
ers per Wiater
mouth.
1 Common Labour-
ers per Summer
month.
[Common Labourers
per day in Harvest.
I-
"•£
,« S
G ,_
P
,,
A Work-horse.
1
J
O
a
t
40 0
s. d
GO 0
50
n.d.
5 0
L. 8.
L. s.
17 10
5 0
8 10
s.d.
12 6
3
s.d.
2 6
15
Ib.
s. d.
0 11
s.d.
s.d.
0 6
t. A.
12 6
40 0
60 0
5 0
5 0
20 0
16 10
5 10
10 0
126
3
« 6
15
-
1 0
074
1 3
35 0
40 0
60 0
..
5 0
20 0
17 10
5 12
8 15
13 9
34
2 6
22
130
1 0
0 6
1 0
25 0
40 0
60 0
4 4
5 0
-
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112
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62 0
4 4
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;!£?
15 0
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1 0
074
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50 0
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80
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9 S
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186
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33,
P. for Presbyterian ; E. for Episcopal ; M. for Methodist,
an allowance quite too much, I have taken the liberty, in summing1 up, to deluct 10, that
J may not pervert my average calculations.— R. G.
458 . HOME DISTRICT.
THE HOME DISTRICT.
FROM this district I did not receive a single
reply to my address, although it was first published
here, and had the cordial approbation of the head
magistrate of the province, as well as of every body
with whom I held converse. This may be as-
cribed to twox causes: first, the opposition of a
monstrous little fool of a parson, who, for reasons
best known to himself, fell foul of the address
which I had published, abused me as its author,
and has ever since laboured, with unremitting ma-
lignity, to frustrate its intention.
This man, unfortunately, was a member of the
executive council ; and his efforts, from that cir-
cumstance, were but too successful. In another
place his name, history, and machinations, shall be
fully displayed.
The second cause may be traced to the low
condition of society in the Home District, ow-
ing to the peculiar state of property. The fore-
going reports sufficiently demonstrate how the
farmers of Upper Canada have been baffled in their
improvements by the large tracts of unsettled land ;
but, in the Home District, they have suffered most
from this ; and not only has it dulled the edge of
husbandry, but in a remarkable degree, clouded
the rise of intellect and spirit among the inhabit-
ants.
HOME DISTRICT. 459
No sooner was York, or Little York, as it was
first called by Governor Simcoe, and to which
compound appellation it has since established pe-
culiar claims; — no sooner was Little York fixed
upon as the capital of the province, than it became
obvious that sooner or later the landed property
around, and on the great roads leading to King-
ston, &c. would bear a high value. For this good
reason, the creatures in office and favour bent their
avaricious eyes upon it, and large portions were
secured to them and their friends. The conse-
quences are melancholy. For five miles round the
capital of Upper Canada, scarcely one improved
farm can be seen in contact with another; and
even within a gun-shot of the place, the gloomy
woods rise up in judgment against its nefarious
inmates. I say, " the gloomy woods," because
nature does not appear in her full attire in the
neighbourhood of Little York. The need of fire-
wood has stolen from the forest its chief ornaments,
and left a parcel of scorched and decaying pine trees
to frown over the seat of rapacity. The only con-
nected settlement commences about five miles to
the north, on Yonge Street. In other directions,
so far as the district goes, you might travel in 1817
to its utmost limits, and not find more than one
farm house for every three miles. It is true, that
round York, and particularly to the westward, the
soil is inferior: but the convenience attendant on
proximity to a town would long ago have over-
balanced this disadvantage, had property not been
monopolized and mangled. Where Yonge Street
is compactly settled, it is well cultivated and thriv-
460 HOME DISTRICT.
ing, particularly beyond what is called the Oak
Hills or Ridges, a stripe of elevated and irregular
ground which parts the waters flowing into lakes
Simcoe and Ontario, and which indeed forms a
sort of continuation of the mountain running
through Gore and Niagara Districts.
In this quarter the land is excellent, and it is
well occupied by industrious people, mostly
Quakers. In other quarters, simple and unsus-
pecting Germans, — Tunkers, and Menonists, have
been thinly stuck in by the knowing ones among
their precious blocks and reserves, by whose plod-
ding labours the value of this sinecure property
may be increased.
A curious document has been published in this
country, which gives a sad proof of the effect of
narrow-mindedness and wrong arrangement in
property. The document is meant to draw reve-
rence to the above-mentioned parson; but, in fact,
is the strongest evidence against his deeds and
sentiments. It is stated that seven or eight miles
from York, on Yonge Street, there is a place of
worship, where it is customary to see many grown
persons coming forward to be baptized. The fact
is, that this, with another belonging to the above
mentioned Quakers, are the only places of worship
to be seen in Yonge Street, extending near 40
miles. In the first mentioned, service is performed
only once a month ; the dominant parson allowing
nobody to preach but himself!
Much moan has been made in this country as
to the lagging of the Gospel in Upper Canada ;
HOME DISTRICT. 461
but I can assure the public, that the chief cause
rests in the state of property, which so scatters the
people, as to put the necessary union for building
and endowing churches out of the question. The
moment that Upper Canada becomes thickly
peopled, the Gospel, having free course, will be
glorified ; and this will the sooner take place, the
sooner that clergy reserves, vainly set apart for
the erection of an established church, are sold off
to actual settlers. Next to personal security, the
security and right ordering of property is the prime
concern of wise legislation. Let these indeed be
properly seen to, and all else will go well, whether
the pate of magistracy be covered with a cowl, a
crown, or a cap of liberty.
There are not more desirable situations for settle-
ment in the province, than on the great road from
York to Kingston ; but here the largest portions of
land have been seized upon by people in power
and office. Some 20 years ago, these people sold
two whole townships of crown land, and had the
effrontery to lay out great part of the proceeds in
opening the road through these their favourite
locations, which actual settlers would cheerfully
have done gratis, besides keeping it in continual
repair. The road was indeed opened, but to this
day, except in sleighing time and fine weather, it
is an absolute block up against him who would
attempt to pass between the two principal towns
of the province. Upon one occasion that I wended
my weary way through this dismal defile, I was
glad to rest for a little while in a farm-house, " far
in the wild." It has been my frequent custom to
1
462 HOME DISTRICT.
judge my fellow men partly through external ap-
pearances— their farms — their houses — their dress.
When approaching a human dwelling in Upper
Canada, I would survey its neighbourhood : I
would observe whether the fire-wood was neatly
piled ; the implements of husbandry snugly se-
cured from wind and weather in a shed or
whether the pump and oven were in good repair.
Sometimes, nay I shall say often, all was right: —
sometimes quite the reverse. In front of a farm-
house, I would sometimes see broken ploughs and
decayed waggons lying upon a heap of chips
which had been accumulating for years, and which
had for smaller garnishing, many coloured and
filthy rags, broken bottles, and pieces of crockery.
What was to be augured of the man who exhibited
such signals? certainly neither good humour, nor
rational conversation. Yet if the weary traveller
must have rest and refreshment, he will not be
repelled by these : he will at least march up to the
house, and consult the windows. If well glazed
and bright, in he may go, assured that the mistress
will prove tidy, though her man is a sloven ; and
that the interior will yield comfort, though the
exterior forbade the hope. If, on the contrary, an
old hat, or piece of dirty blanket supplies the place
of a pane of glass, the case is bad indeed ; and
nothing but the strongest necessity, or most violent
curiosity, would induce me to enter. Both were
urgent on this occasion ; and after resting a little,
I began to examine the various articles by which
the light of the front window was obscured, or I
HOME DISTRICT. 463
should rather say, by which its numerous orifices
were closed up. Let the reader reflect on the
catalogue : there was one old great coat, and two
pair of ragged pantaloons ! This story, I think, will
match with that of the paganism of Yonge Street,
and the same cause has laid the foundation of
both. Inspect all the wretched cottages of Eng-
land, and you will not find a window so patched
as that which I have spoken of. It is not mere
poverty that produces such appearances. The
poorest creature could find a piece of board, or a
bit of paper, to nail or paste up in the place of a
broken glass ; and either the one or other would
have some shew of neatness and respectability : but
an old hat, a blanket, a great coat, or ragged pan-
taloons, taken advantage of for such a purpose,
mark a degree of degradation below brutality; and
such is the state to which circumstances and situa-
tion can reduce humanity. It is the removal from
social intercourse; the indulgence of indolence;
the want of excitement ; which can make the mind
completely torpid, and at once extinguish taste,
feeling, and shame. The master of the house spo-
ken of was tenant of a clergy reserve. But enough
of this at present: there is quite enough to shew
why I had no reply to my queries in such a district.
To carry on my estimate of population, I sup-
pose that Little York might contain, in 1817, of
people, I shall not say souls, . ; 1,200
There are 13 organized townships in the district;
that is, such as hold town meetings for the choice
of town office bearers, and to these, three others
464 HOME DISTRICT.
are united, each containing a few inhabitants. If
to these 13 townships, with their additions, are
allowed 500 people each, the full number, I think,
will be obtained as it stood in 1817 . 6,500
The above ,' .^ . . ,^._ _ . 1,200
Total white population . . 7,700
There is an Indian reserve west of York, which
extends from the lake to the wilderness^ between
Toronto and Etobekoke, and on which some
Missassaga Indians are stationary, perhaps 200.
They employ themselves in fishing, and shooting
wild fowl, chiefly ducks, which frequent York
harbour in myriads. In still, clear weather they
have a mode of killing fish with a small javelin,
which they use standing upright in their bark
canoes with a dexterity and ease that is delightful
to witness. In 1818, a purchase was made from
the Missassagas of part of their reserve, and a vast
extent of the wilderness, which has since been
surveying and settling, with emigrants from Britain
and Ireland, British subjects from the United
States, &c.
In travelling through the Home District, I ob-
served yellow pine in two places : viz. on Holland
river, which runs into lake Simcoe, and east of
York a few miles. The timber of this tree is
very superior to the white pine, which prevails
through the province, being much more resinous.
It resembles the Scotch fir, but is coarser in its
leaves or prickles, which, too, are collected together,
at the extremity of the bearing twigs, so as to form
HOME DISTRICT. 465
more of a brushy appearance. Its bark, though ge-
nerally more gashed and broken, is, at places,
smoother than that of the white pine, exhibiting
a rich blooming colour, whence the distinguishing
name. Pitch pine, the knots of which are excellent
for torches, resembles the yellow pine. It is found
on the Thousand Islands, &c.
I shall here remark, that no tree in Canada exact*
ly resembles the same species or variety in Britain.
The beech is most similar, butis not so hard, nor so
strongly glazed, in the leaf as ours. Where nature
has, for ages, had the entire disposal of plants over
the surface of a country, the various kinds probably
abound in the exact degree to which soil and situ-
ation are most favourable.
The beech, I think, prevails more than any other
tree throughout Upper Canada ; but it is worthless.
Some generations must pass away before it becomes
an object for art to interfere with nature in the
growth of timber trees in Canada; but it is plea-
sant to reflect that human discernment has room to
economize in this respect. The yellow pine, I
have no doubt, might be planted, and occupy the
ground to much greater advantage than the white
pine. The English oak might be introduced in-
stead of the less durable native varieties of Canada ;
or perhaps the live-oak and teek may be substituted
to still greater profit.
The gooseberry of various sorts is indigenous in
Canada : in Britain it certainly is not ; but what a
mighty change has the habit and worth of the
plant experienced by cultivation. Here it pro
H H
466 HOME DISTRICT.
duces the most delicious fruit; in its native soil
and climate, growing up neglected, the gooseberry
is wretched.
A canal has been spoken of to pass through the
Home District, so as to connect lake Ontario with
lake Simcoe, and this last with lake Huron. The
mere inspection of the map will make this appear
plausible, as saving much distance in reaching the
Upper Lakes ; but levels must be thought of in
determining the course of canals. The surface of
lake Simcoe is much higher than that of lake Hu-
ron. The lockage, therefore, from lake Ontario
into lake Simcoe would be much greater than that
into lake Erie ; and, in addition to upward lockage,
would be added the downward lockage from lake
Simcoe to lake Huron, which, together, might
quite outbalance the advantage of shorter distance.
A question was some time in agitation to make
Kingston the seat of government instead of York,
but is, I believe, now set at rest by confirming to
the latter this honour: it is the most central, and
of course the best situation for business. As to
danger from war, it only requires common sense
and honesty to be introduced into the capital of
Upper Canada to render it perfectly safe, even
without its garrison, or block house.
NEWCASTLE DISTRICT. 467
IIALDIMAND.
NAME, Haldimand : situated on the lake store :
extent of the township, nine miles east and west;
and 12 miles north and south.
The soil appears to, be very excellent throughout
this township : the land being well timbered of
such as beech, maple, basswood, &c. &c. &c. as
well as a sufficient quantity of building timber,
suitable for the purposes which we require it for.
There are streams sufficient for mills of any size :
various living springs also generally throughout.
The country began to be settled in the month
of June, 1797: the quantity of land, 70,000 acres,
of which is under cultivation 6,258. Persons
whose property is rateable, 154; number of grist
mills, 3 ; of saw mills, 4; of carding machines, 3;
of stores, 5 ; of taverns, 4 ; meeting houses, 1 ;
preachers of various sects, such as Baptists, Me-
thodists, &c. ; of schools, 4 ; teachers' fees per
quarter, 12s. 6d.
The rate of grinding (as is customary) every
12th part ; price of boards at the mill, 35s. ; bricks,
at the kiln, 35s. each, pet 1000 ; lime at the kiln,
Is. 3d. per bushel ; prices of labour, viz. black-
smiths per month, 20 dollars ; of clearing land,
10 dollars per acre ; for common labourers, for six
months in summer season, 14 dollars per month ;
day labourers, in harvest, 5s.; carpenters, per day,
6s. 3d. ; masons, per day, 7s. 6d. ; of labouring
H H 2
468 NEWCASTLE DISTRICT.
women, per week, 5s. ; price of a horse, four years
old, 60 dollars ; an ox, 40 dollars ; a milch cow, 20
dollars ; a sheep, three dollars ; 3lbs. of wool per
sheep, at 2s. 6d. ; butter, Is. and cheese, 7|d. perlb.
Time of turning out cattle to pasture about the 1st
of May ; of taking into stable about the 20th No-
vember; sleighing season, three months: plough-
ing in spring, about the 20th of April ; of seeding
wheat, 1st September ; reaping of grain, the month
of August ; wheat, sown per acre, one bushel ;
produce 25 bushels. Lands let upon shares, one*
half the profits arising. At the first settling of the
township, lands were worth 5s. per acre ; at the
present time in good situations, 15s., and in ordi-
nary situations, 10s.
NATHAN BURNHAM, JOHN HUNGER,
EBENEZER ALLEN, JOHNSONMERRIAM,
JOHN BROWN, WILSON Rus.
SUMMARY OP POPULATION, &C.
THIS district has, like the last, been made the
spoil of power, and large blocks of unoccupied land
every where hem in and distress the industrious
settlers. It contains excellent land, finely watered.
I had from it only the above report of Haldimand ;
and my only data for calculating the population is
from the assessment roll, which, in 1818, gave the
following account of persons liable to district
taxes :
NEWCASTLE DISTRICT. 469
In the Township of Percy ^ •...•»1$ 34
124
136
Ditto
Ditto
ditto
ditto
Murray . .
Cramahe . .
Ditto
ditto
Haldimand
Ditto
ditto
Hamilton . .
Ditto
' Ditto
ditto
ditto
Hope . . .
Clark and Darlington
155
120
58
789
Supposing each of the above per-
sons to be the head of a family of 6
The total will be 4734
And admit that poor persons, who
are not on the roll, amount to ... 266
The population will be 5000
During the last three years many emigrants
have been settled towards Rice lake, in this
district, of whom I take no account.
In the course of time it may become an object of
importance to connect Rice lake by a canal with
lake Ontario direct, instead of following the pre-
sent canoe route, by its natural outlet into the bay
of Quinte.
470 MIDLAND DISTRICT,
KINGSTON.
To ROBERT GOURLAY, Esq.
November ZSth, 1817.
SIR,
IT is impossible for an inhabitant of this
province, who has at heart either the interest of the
colony, or mother country, to read your address
to the landholders of Upper Canada, without feel-
ing a most sincere interest in the success of your
arduous undertaking.
This communication, Sir, the result of that ad-
dress, is made by a society yet in its infancy,
which has for its object the mutual improvement
of its members in the arts and sciences, and the
dissemination amongst their fellow men of such
useful knowledge as by their exertions they may
be able to attain. Anxious to contribute our mite
to the promoting so desirable an object as the lay*
ing open the valuable resources of this vast coun-
try to our fellow subjects on the other side of the
Atlantic, we have taken every pains in our power
to obtain correct information on the subject of
your queries, as regards the township of Kingston.
Should the annexed replies therefore be found in
any way subservient to your laudable purpose, they
are most cordially at your service, to be used as you
may think proper.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 471
Our society, Sir, whilst it confesses its inability
to pay any adequate tribute to the patriotism and
philanthropy of your present exertion, begs par-
ticularly to express its approbation of your plan of
publishing in German as well as in English, as the
Germans, from their industrious habits and at-
tachment to our government, generally make valu-
able settlers.
We subscribe the names of all the members of
our society in town, and remain, with warmest
wishes for your welfare and prosperity,
Your most obedient Servants,
CHAS. SHORT, ANTONY MARSHAL,
H. C. THOMSON, JOHN M. BALFOUR,
ROBT. STANTON, THOMAS GRAHAM.
2d. The first English settlement was made in the
year 1783, though the French had a small garri-
son here, while in possession of the country. The
number of inhabited houses now is about 650 :
population about 2,850. This enumeration in-
cludes the town of Kingston, which contains 430
houses and 9,250 souls.
3d. There are four churches, or meeting houses,
viz. 1 Episcopalian, 1 Roman Catholic, and 2
Methodists : there are 4 professional preachers, viz.
1 Episcopalian, 1 Presbyterian, and 2 Methodists.
This enumeration does not include a chaplain to
the army, and one to the royal navy.
5th. Eight schools, the fees of which are various ;
viz. three at 40s. : four at 22s. 6d. \ and one conduct-
ed on the Lancastrian system at 10s. per quarter.
472 MIDLAND DISTRICT.
6th. There are 67 stores and shops in the town
and township. This includes the different deno-
minations of shops kept by mechanics.
7th. There are 41 taverns, inns, hotels, and
coffee-houses in the town and township.
8th. There is a machine for carding wool, at the
rate of 9d. per Ib. ; generally paid in wool at the
current price.
9th. The soil of this township is chiefly of a
clayey nature, covered in its original state with a
stratum of rich black vegetable mould. The soil
rests on a bed of limestone, and is of various
depths: a small part is rather thin, particularly
round the shores of Kingston bay and the bay of
Quinte, and a great number of small stones re-
main on the surface, though they could be all
removed at a trifling expence of labour : neither do
the farmers use lime or manure upon their lands :
yet they are all in good circumstances, and a few
years of industry would make them all rich, they
being near the market of Kingston, where a large
garrison is kept ; besides the royal naval establish-
ment: also, a number of merchant vessels which
belong to the port. There are numbers of natural
meadows and small lakes in the township ; and it
is well watered with rivulets and creeks. Four-
fifths of the land is still covered with forest
trees,
10th. The timber most abundant is the different
Jdnds of maple : the curled and bird-eye maple is
remarkable for making the most beautiful cabinet
furniture, A grove of sugar maple trees with pro-
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 473
per care will produce on an average, each spring,
five Ibs. of sugar per tree.
The other trees as they most abound are beech,
ash, elm, the different species of fir, the walnut,
butternut, hiccorynut, basswood, ironwood, birch,
cherry, white and red cedar, poplar, elder, oaks,
black and white, prickly ash, hazle, shittim wood,
willows, hemlock tree, and the locust tree*, &c.
1 1th. The whole of this township lays on a stra-
tum of limestone, at the depth of from one to six
feet. There has been iron ore found on the banks
of a small river near Kingston mills, and also a salt
spring tolerably strong.
12th. The blue limestone of this township
makes very handsome and durable building stone:
it has been sold at a quarry within the limits of this
town, the last and present years, from two to three
dollars per toise.
15th. The wages of mechanics are at present
extravagantly high : they may, however, be con-
sidered on the decline, which will keep pace with
the increase of the population.
Journeymen's wages at present are as follows :
Carpenters, on an average, winter and summer,
8s. 6d. per day, and found in board and lodging.
Blacksmiths, do. 3s. 6d. per day, with board and
lodging. Masons, 9s. to 12s. 6d. — not found.
The price of shoeing a horse all round is gene-
rally from 8s. to 9s. iron found. Most of the
farmers make their own ploughs and harrows, the
* I have seen the locust (acacia) cultivated, but never wild, in
Upper Canada.— R, G.
474 MIDLAND DISTRICT.
wood work of which is of little value ; the iron of
a plough cost generally from nine to twelve dollars,
according to weight, or Is. per Ib. ; harrow lines
lOd. ; chains, steeled wedges, &c. Is. 3d.
18th. Clearing land covered with
timber, prepared for the harrow at 3l.
per acre is V4xj ^ £15 0 0
Fencing do. at 7s. 6d. per acre, is 1 17 6
Total for five acres - £16 17 6
21st. The usual time of turning beasts to pasture
is about the 20th of April, and the time they are
generally taken into a yard (as the farmers of this
township are not in the habit of stabling their
cattle, horses excepted) is about the 20th of No-
vember.
22d. The sleighing season generally com-
mences about the 1st of January, and terminates
the latter end of March. Ploughing is usually
commenced about the 20th of April.
23d. What is termed winter wheat and rye is
generally sown about the 10th of September. All
kinds of spring grain — such as oats, wheat, peas,
barley, and rye, are generally sown from the 3d to
the 20th of May. The usual time of reaping
spring grain is from the 15th of August to the 15th
of September.
23th. A cow will give (including summer and
winter) in the course of one week 21 quarts of
milk, which will make three Ibs. and a half of but-
ter, or four Ibs. of cheese.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 475
$6th. No general system of cropping is ob-
served. The ordinary mode with new land is to
put in a crop of wheat, and continue this from year
to year as long as the land will bear it : it is then
laid to grass for two or three years : after which it
is cropped, without observing any general system
of husbandry. Manure is seldom used, excepting
now and then for a potatoe or Indian corn crop.
27th. The system of letting lands on shares is
not extensively practised in this township. When
it is done one-half of the proceeds is considered a
sufficient compensation to the farmer, the proprie*
tor providing farming utensils, oxen, and seed, for
the first crop.
28th. Few or no actual purchases of land were
made by the original settlers, as their situation
entitled them to grants from government; many of
these people, however, in a few years, got into the
books of the merchants, and from that period we
may date actual sales: from 10 to 20 years ago, lands
sold to liquidate debts, may be stated at from 2s. 6d.
to 10s. per acre. Since that period, it has not come
to our knowledge that many sales have been
made, excepting in the way of barter, the price of
which generally yielded to the circumstances of the
seller. Within the last month a sale of 600 acres of
wild land has been made 6 miles from Kingston; the
estimated price is 13s. 4d. to be paid for, part cash
and part barter. Farms of 200 acres, with, perhaps,
60 or 80 acres cleared, with a house and barn, and
within a range of 10 miles of this town, may be
worth from 21. to 51. per acre.
476 MIDLAND DISTRICT.
29th. If there were purchasers in the market,
we believe the quantity for sale to be very con-
siderable.
30th. In the remote concessions of this town-
ship the roads are very bad, chiefly owing to the
country being so thinly inhabited, and to the crown
and clergy reserves : likewise, a principal cause of the
bad roads is owing to the large tracts of land held
by non-residents, as they are not compelled by law
to contribute their share of the ex pence towards
the making and improving roads : generally speak-
ing, the materials exist in great abundance through-
out the township for the making of roads, and if
wise legislative and municipal laws were adopted
and enforced, we might have as good roads here as
in any part of the world, and not at a greater ex-
pence than they have them in countries where the
price of labour bears any proportion to what it is
here. Water communication is not very common,
except on the front of the township ; but it might
be extended and improved by means of canals, &c.:
however, this species of improvement would re-
quire capital and a condensed population.
31st. There are three prominent causes which
tend to retard the improvement of this part of
the country : first the original settlers were (ge-
nerally speaking) discharged soldiers, whose habits
were, and continue to be, foreign to the quiet and
peaceful pursuits of industry: there is likewise
another class of settlers, consisting of regardless
characters, chiefly emigrants from the United
States.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 477
The second cause, which in our opinion retards
the agricultural improvement of this township, is
the crown and clergy reserves. If they could be
disposed of, so as to allow good roads, and a free
communication from one concession to another, it
would tend, in our opinion, much to the improve-
ment of the township.
The third cause is the immense tracts of land held
by non-residents. We cannot pretend to give you
a correct account of the quantity of land so held ;
but we are certain that we do not exaggerate in
stating the number of acres at from 12 to 15,000,
exclusive of the crown and clergy reserves, which
are two-seventh parts of the whole land in the
township.
KINGSTON.— SECOND REPORT.
At a Meeting of a respectable Number of Yeomen,
Farmers, and others, held at the Village of
Waterloo, in the lownship of Kingston, on
Monday, February 2, 1818, when Major John
Everett was unanimously called to the Chair, and
Mr. John Vincent was requested to act as Secre-
tary to the Meeting, Mr. Gourlays Publication
to the resident Landholders of Upper Canada,
was read and approved. It was then resolved
that his Queries be token into Consideration, and
Answers returned thereto.
3
47$ MIDLAND DISTRICT.
PASTURE good. A lean ox will sometimes gain
two cwt. in a summer's run. A good cow yields
seven pounds of butter per week. The cows are
smaller, and badly managed to what they are in
England.
At the first settlement, many sold their 200
acre lots for the value of a few shillings : 12 years
ago, land a few miles from Kingston sold for
2s. 6d. per acre ; and lately, in the same situations,
for 30s. or 40s. ; but the fire wood alone will be
soon worth as much as that.
For cash a number of improved farms might be
bought,
The roads are very indifferent ; but if properly
undertaken, might, at a little expence, be made
good, as stone is at hand. What contributes to
the neglect of the roads is that the business is
mostly contrived to be done by sleighing.
In answer to the last question, what, in our
opinions, would most contribute to the improve-
ment of the province, and what retards the same,
the following answers were proposed, and unani-
mously approved of.
1st. The want of capital, which is partly caused
by the arrival of so many poor emigrants from the
mother country, with scarcely money sufficient to
support them a month, and yet expect to under-
take a farm, because the land is given them, quite
forgetting they want it cleared, with a house, barn,
horses, cows, and every implement in husbandry,
together with provision till they can raise their
own : but, it is true, most of the present fanners
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 479
commenced with small means ; but they better
understood the nature of the country, and to be a
good labourer it requires a year or two's practice
to get expert in the method of farming in this
country.
We would recommend men with a suitable
capital to enter into farming, to take them under
their protection, or by forming small colonies for
the purpose of settling, and then introducing men
of the country among them to instruct them; and
we venture to declare, under suitable management,
Upper Canada would answer any reasonable expec-
tation to farmers, and nearly every useful artisan:
the latter should not remain at the sea-ports, but
proceed up the country, where they are wanted.
We wish also that some method could be adopted
at the sea-ports, to give such people information
where they would find employment,
For want of capital the greatest object remains
neglected, that is, the removing the obstacle to the
navigation of the river St. Lawrence. The ex-
pence of this object, it is generally considered,
would be less than it cost government to bring up
the stores during the last war. The benefits we
should receive are immense, when our remote
situation is considered. At present every article
we want from the sea-ports is brought to us at
great expence, time, and risk : the same may be
said of any article we have to export. We sin-
cerely hope some spirited men of capital, in Eng-
land, may turn their attention to this object, and
we have no doubt but they would be well remu-
480 MIDLAND DISTRICT*
nerated for the money they expended, by the in-
crease of population and trade up and down the
river.
The great quantities of land in the fronts and
public situations that remain unimproved, by
being given very injudiciously to persons who do
not want to settle on them, and what is most
shameful arid injurious, no law is made to compel
them to make or work any public road ; but this is
to be done by industrious people, who settle around.
Such lands remain like a putrid carcass, an injury
and a nuisance to all around : at the same time, to
the owners, this land increases in value, without
their being made to contribute towards it, at other
men's ex pence. Our worthies a few years ago
passed an act, that required a poor man to work
three days upon the public roads, and these over-
gorged landowners but twelve days, and others,
with twenty times as much property, doing no
more. It would excite surprise at Governor Gore's
signing such a bill, if it was not known that the
parliament voted him £3,000 to buy a piece of
plate.
Mr. Gourlay takes it for granted, that the re-
straints to improvement will be speedily removed
by government. This assertion ill comports with
the notice given by the Board of Trade to our mer-
chants, to set a duty on timber from British Ame-
rica. We do express our belief, to think it impos-
sible so much injury to the people of these pro-
vinces can be intended, to please a northern despot,
or to answer any policy. If such is the intention^
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 481
we may be assured, more, like Bute and North, are
in council, who, by their arbitrary measures, lost to
us the, now, United States. Our loyalty and regard
for the mother country was strongly proved by the
severe military duty we performed during the late
war; and common gratitude would entitle us to
every fostering care the mother country could be-
stow to the encouragement of our commerce, and
other local interests.
We think an indiscriminate admission of people
from the United States greatly injurious to the
province; many of these people come among us
solely from gain, without any respect for people or
country, who would, at a favourable opportunity,
join their countrymen against us ; and if we were
sure of their attachment, are they not filling the
country where the surplus population of Britain
might plant themselves with advantage and honour?
The want of success at the depot (Perth New
Settlement) arises from the badness of the system
pursued, and the conduct of the agents employ-
ed, and not from the country or settlers. The
agents should be fatherly men, who understand
the management of such business ; instead of
which, a parcel of ignorant proud puppies were put
there, who were too indolent to give the strangers
directions to find their land; but if government
will take the trouble to hear, it will be explained
to them in every particular.
JOHN VINCENT.
i i
482 MIDLAND DISTRICT.
EARNEST-TOWN, INCLUDING
AMHERST ISLAND.
2d. Itinerant tradesmen, from the United States,
when occasional, or rather periodical improve-
ments require their services, in the erection or
repairing of buildings, in the clearing and culture
of lands, and in the disposal of implements of hus-
bandry, often augment the actual population by
some hundreds.
3d. There is only one resident professional
preacher in the whole township, and he is of the
Methodist society. But the respective churches
are occasionally served by non-resident and itine-
rant gentlemen from the United States, and from
the adjacent townships, especially from Kingston ;
which place, from its being the naval, military, and
commercial capital of Upper Canada, is well sup-
plied with religious establishments and ministers.
5th. There is one parochial academy in the vil-
lage, and thirteen common schools over the town-
ship. The fees may average IOs. per quarter.
8th. There are two carding and one fulling ma-
chines. One barley hulling mill, together with a
water blast furnace. Carding is 5|d. per Ib. and
fulling 6d. per yard.
9th. The general character is good.
10th. The timber, in order as it most abounds,
is, beech and sugar maple, basswood, white pine,
white oak, black ash, water elm, white cedar,
red oak, white walnut, spruce, black and white
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 483
birch, iron wood, tamerack, butternut, balsam
fir, &c. &c.
llth. Iron and sulphur strongly indicated: lime-
stone is universal. Plaster of Paris has lately
been found in an uncalcined state, and strongly
impregnated with lime. Several springs have been
found charged with salt and other minerals not yet
defined.
12th. There are several quarries of excellent
building stone, which may be obtained for 10s. per
toise.
15th. Blacksmiths, piece-work, viz. horse-shoe-
ing, 8s. ; plough shares, 15d. per Ib. wrought ;
felling axe, 10s. ; hoe, 5s. ; and the general prac-
tice in working iron for the farmers' utensils (with
the exception of plain work, such as harrow teeth,
&c.) is charged at the current price of iron per Ib.
25th. The pasture is universally good, consist-
ing of white clover and timothy, natural and rich.
The cows yield excellent milk, and the quality of
the butter is luscious, and that of the cheese mel-
low, much resembling Dunlap cheese. Pork and
poultry of every description are raised with ease
and abundance, while the adjacent waters furnish a
great variety of delicious fish and fowls, and the
woods contain many species of game, which help
to save the farmer's stock.
26th, The course of cropping is wheat, rye,
grass broken up for fall wheat, or pease. When
sown with wheat, the pease or oats follow ; when
with pease, wheat or barley follows. Manure is
applied with advantage for all crops; but generally
i i 2
484 MIDLAND DISTRICT.
only used for potatoes, Indian corn, flax, and
barley.
27th. Land is sometimes let on shares, but not
to any great extent. The ordinary terms are about
one-third to the proprietor of the field produce.
28th. At the first settlement the value of wild
lands was merely nominal. They have progres-
sively risen, and their present price may be com-
puted at<£l. 5s. per acre. The average price of
100 acres of land, one half improved with tolerable
buildings thereon, may be valued at £%. per acre.
29th. From the prosperity of the township, there
are hardly any lands for sale, except when cases of
emergency urge a disposal.
30th. The roads are tolerably good ; but might
be considerably improved at a moderate ex pence.
The water communication to all parts of the pro-
vince is free from the front of the township. If
the improvement of this township can be said to
be retarded, it is for want of more skill in hus-
bandry, and the dearth of labourers; and it may
be added, that although this township is generally
considered one of the best settled, and most pros-
perous in the Upper Province, yet the introduction
of men of capital and enterprise, and those versed
in a superior knowledge of husbandry, would be a
great acquisition, and contribute to its ultimate
prosperity.
R. MACKAY,
Secretary to the Meeting.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 485
>••" -f- <svii>-- *',«P*
ADOLPHUSTOWN.
9th. The general character of the soil is clay.
10th. The timber most abounding, is oak, hick-
ory, beech, maple, pine, elm, and bass.
26th. The ordinary course of cropping upon new
land is to sow it with wheat in the fall, and with
rye the ensuing season ; it is sometimes let lay,
and sometimes sowed with pease in the spring
after the first crop is reaped, and again with wheat
in the fall. Manure is applied on orchard ground,
and for corn and potatoes ; sometimes for wheat
and barley,
27th. Land is -sometimes let on shares, but not
practised to a great extent in this township : the
ordinary terms are, the owner to furnish team, seed,
&c. and take one-half when gathered.
28th. At the first settlement of this township,
land could be procured at Is. per acre. It rose
gradually to 5s. 10s. 15s. 20s. &c. At this mo-
ment there is no land in the township could be
procured for less than 4l. per acre, and it is be-
lieved few would sell at any price.
29th. None.
30th. The roads of this township are surpassed
by none in the province. No township has greater
advantages as respects water conveyance ; every
concession has communication with the bay lead-
ing to Kingston.
31st. In our opinion, what retards the improve-
48(5 MIDLAND DISTRICT.
ment of the province in general, is the great neces-
sity which still exists in it for improvement of the
St. Lawrence, the very unequal road tax, the great
quantity of land held by landholders residing out
of the province, and the want of a provincial bank.
Could these objects be accomplished, and an emi-
gration of enterprising settlers from home, men of
capital and abilities, take place, no doubt rests with
us that it would greatly advance prosperity.
JACOB HOVER, WILLET CASEY,
THOMAS COOK, WILLIAM MOORE,
PHILIP RoBLEN, ARCH. CAMPBELL,
DAVID PETERSON, And 25 others.
SOPHIASBURG.
3d. THERE are no churches. The Quakers,
Methodists, and Presbyterians, have meetings at
private houses.
8th. One carding machine: 6d. per Ib. carding
wool.
9th. Clay and loam : surface tolerably level.
10th. Pine, oak, maple, beech, ash, elm, cedar,
and basswood.
12th. There is no building stone, except lime-
stone, which can be had at a very trifling expence.
18th. From 8 to 12 dollars per acre, employer
finding a team.
25th. Quantity of pasture is small in proportion
to the size of the farms ; quality tolerably good.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 487
26th. Wheat is always the first crop, both on
new lands, and on land broken up from grass.
Pease, corn, or oats, the next crop ; then wheat
again. Manure is seldom used, and only that
from the barnyard.
27th. But few farms are let on shares.
28th. At first settlement, about Is. per acre:
there is little wild land for sale here: last sales
made from three to five dollars per acre. No sales
of improved farms have lately taken place.
30th. State of the roads generally good. The
township being situated on the bay of Quinte, is
very convenient for water communication.
ORTON HANCOX.
HALLOWELL.
14th Feb. 1818.
At a Meeting of the Justices of the Peace, and
principal Inhabitants, held at Eyre's Inn, the
Proposals of Mr. Gourlay were considered, and
the following Replies agreed to.
HALLOWELL is almost wholly good soil, gene-
rally of a loamy nature, yielding excellent winter
wheat, and also all other kinds of spring and sum-
mer grain, such as pease, oats, Indian corn, barley,
potatoes, turnips, &c. Flax, when properly at-
tended, being raised also of an excellent quality.
The township being generally level, is cultivated
488 MIDLAND DISTRICT.
with ease, and is handsomely proportioned with
meadow land. Orchards also begin to thrive.
We have one Methodist, and one Quaker meet-
ing house in the township : preparations are mak-
ing also for a Presbyterian meeting house. The
former is attended by a circuit preacher every two
weeks. The latter by a Quaker speaker every
Sabbath.
One carding and one fulling machine: carding
wool, 6d. per Ib. ; and 2s. per yard for fulling, co-
louring, pressing, and shearing cloth.
The timber produced is beech, maple, white and
black ash, basswood, birch, white and black oak,
iron wood, cedar, and a suitable proportion of
white pine for building, and sawing into boards.
There are various ridges which abound with lime-
stone, which could be obtained at a very trifling
expence. Excellent clay is found in different
parts of the township, from which the best of
bricks are made ; two brick houses being finished
in the township-.
The course of cropping upon new lands is
generally thus.: the owner of the land will find
team to do the work, and board the person crop-
ping ; they will labour equally, and the cropper
will receive one-third of the wheat. On old lands
various ways are practised, according to the circum-
stances of the person wishing to take or rent a farm
or piece of land ; but generally much to the advan-
tage of the cropper. Old land generally drawing
one-third of the produce without any labour
of the owner : he finding one-third the seed, and
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 4S9
receives his share, harvested or not, as may be
agreed upon in the field. Manure is. generally
drawn out in the fall upon ground to be phmted
with Indian corn in the spring, or for other grain,
as may be required ; farms being let upon shares,
or leased from one to three years in general.
Farms of 200 acres, with from 30 to 50 acres
cleared, having a comfortable frame dwelling house
and barn, are worth from 6001. to 8001.
The roads are good, and yearly improving.
Within the limits of this township lie two small
lakes, called East and West Lake : the former up-
wards of 12 miles in circumference, the latter up-
wards of 16, both communicating with Ontario
by outlets, which are navigable for boats, and are
settled on all sides by industrious farmers. These
waters abound in bass, and other fish, which are
taken at pleasure.
Settlers, able to distribute money among us,
would be of the greatest benefit to the township
and vicinity in general; as also by instructions as
to the modes of agriculture at home.
EBENEZER WASHBURN,
Chairman to the Meeting.
THURLOW.
IN the first concession of this township, and on
the eastern side of the river Moira, is situated the
town of Belville, composed of part of a plot
490 MIDLAND DISTRICT.
which was originally a reservation to the Missassaga
tribe of Indians, for the purposes of encamping
and fishing. In the spring of 1816, it was by
order of government surveyed ancTformed into a
town-plot, consisting of upwards of 300 lots of
half an acre each.
3d. The Gospel is dispensed almost every Sab-
bath of the year, in different parts of the township,
by itinerant preachers of the Methodist and Bap-
tist sects.
8th. There are two carding machines, and two
fulling mills. The rate of carding wool, 6d. per
Ib. ; and of fulling and dressing cloth from 7d. to
lOd. per yard.
9th. The general quality of the soil is light loam,
or marl. The surface, in some few instances, is
broken ; but generally level, smooth, and even.
10th. The most common timber is maple, and in
succession, beech, basswood, oak, pine, elm, birch,
iron wood, spruce, fir, and cedar.
llth. No minerals have been discovered ; nei-
ther does the soil indicate any impregnations ;
limestone is found in abundance, and can be
quarried for 30s. per toise : there are no remarkable
springs.
15th. Blacksmiths charge for a plough, ,£1176
Do. for a hoe, -% .050
Do. narrow axe, . 0 12 6
Do. shoeing a horse, 076
25th. Pasture fields are generally composed of
white and red clover, herds grass, spear grass, and
blue joint, all considered of good quality. On
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 491
such, an ox of four years old, would gain from three
to four hundred pounds during a summer's run.
26th. The ordinary mode of cropping upon new
lands is to deposit the seed as soon as the land i$
cleared of the timber, and harrow the land three or
four times, in order effectually to cover the seed.
Upon old land to break it up with the plough
early in the season, say the month of May; cross
plough and harrow it at different times through
the season, and have it ready for the seed in Sep-
tember. Manure is applied in the mouth of
November, and to such land as is intended for
pease, oats, corn, potatoes, and flax.
27th. The practice of letting land on shares is
common, &c. Where farms are leased for a given
sum, 2,51. per annum is the customary rent for a
farm of 200 acres, possessing ordinary advantages
and accommodations with, say, one quarter part
improved.
28th. Farms situated near the bay of Quinte,
consisting of 200 acres, one-third improved with a
comfortable farm house, and necessary out-houses,
considered worth from 31. to 51. per acre.
29th. There are probably from 15,000 to 20,000
acres of laud yet for sale.
The township comprises about 55,000 acres ;
25,000 of which is in the possession of actual set-
tlers ; about 14,000 are reserved by government,
and the residue is yet to be disposed of.
30th. Roads in general are tolerably good ; but
require and are capable of much improvement,
which could be effected at the average expence of
492 MIDLAND DISTRICT.
51. per miJe. The river Moira is the only stream
in the township worthy of remark. It has its
source in Hog lake, which is situated about 30
miles north of the township. It abounds in valu-
able mill seats, and discharges itself into the bay of
Quinte, at the town of Bellville.
81st. The circumstances which retard the im-
provement of the township may be considered as
extending to all parts of the province, and proceed
from the want of a much more extensive popula-
tion of yeomanry, and a monied capital directed
in a general and liberal manner to agricultural
pursuits.
JAMES Me NAB, J. P. JOHN W. MYERS,
SIMON Me NAB, JOHN HUBBARD,
ROBERT SMITH, JOHN CANNEFF.
Feb. 6th, 1818.
GENERAL REPORT.
Kingston, Z6th Nov. 1817.
iftoi
I DID not receive your circular until the
day before yesterday, and observing, that you in-
tend leaving the country soon, I have committed
to paper, what I know myself, and what I could
collect from my neighbour? : if I had been inform-
ed, at an earlier period, of your intentions, I
should have been able to have answered more of
your queries.
GENERAJL REPORT. 493
*#* Geographical description, as in other reports,
left out.
The soil of the Midland District, is generally a
dark coloured clay and yellow loam; both kinds
good for wheat and every other grain. It is well
timbered with white pine, white and red oak,
maple, beech, hickory, birch, bass wood, iron wood,
butternut and poplar : there are no plains of yellow
pine and oak : there are no mountains or hills of
any height : the country is quite level. No mines
have as yet been discovered ; but from the difficulty
which surveyors have met with, in running parallel
lines, owing to the variation of the needle, there
can be no doubt of the existence of iron mines.
The produce of an acre of new land, is from 25 to
30 bushels of wheat, and of old, from 1,5 to 20 : it
would however produce more were the farmers to
manure and till the ground well. The sowing
season commences about the middle of April ; and
harvest about the middle of July, and continues to
the latter end of August before all the grain is
housed. Labourers get from 10 to 12 dollars per
month, and in harvest, from four to five shillings
per day, and found.
The stock of cattle was very much diminished
during the war, being bought up for the army.
The assess roll gives about 3,600 horses, above
two years: 100 oxen, above four years: 6,185
milch cows : 1,654 head of young cattle, above
two years : 900 houses: 88 merchants' shops : 24
store houses : 24 grist mills : 40 saw mills : there
are also some fulling mills and carding machines.
494 MIDLAND DISTRICT.
There are in Kingston, three clergymen of the
church of England ; one Presbyterian, and two
Methodists : in the country the clergy are mostly
Methodists. Clergymen and churches are much
wanted.
Since the legislature has appropriated a sum of
money for common schools, they have increased
very much in the country : in Kingston there are
six ; two grammar, three common, and one for
young ladies*
This country was settled in 1784 : lands were,
of course, then of no value : they rose from 15d. to
2s. 6d. per acre : are now worth from 10s. to 5l. the
acre, unless distant, and of an inferior quality.
The Midland District, upon the whole, contains a
fine body of land, and possesses many local ad-
vantages, and only requires settlers that have some
property to begin with, to make it one of the most
flourishing districts in the province. Kingston
must eventually become a populous town. At
present, the country is but thinly settled, and to fill
it up by its natural increase will require a very
long period.
If 1 have not been able to answer all your queries,
I believe the most essential ones are taken notice
of, and hope they may contribute in carrying your
very laudable plan into execution.
I am, Sir,
Your very obedient Servant,
THOMAS MARKLAND.
Mr. ROBERT GOURLAY.
MIDLAND DISTRICT. 495
SUMMARY OF POPULATION, &C. &C.
THE reports from this district being few in pro-
portion, and several of these irregular, I cannot give
an exact estimate of population; but the following
•will not be far wrong.
Kingston, Earnest-town, Adolphus-
town, and Thurlow, contain .... 7083
Sophiasburgh, having 101 inhabited
houses, may contain ^ 606
Total 7689
Deducting from this amount the popu-
lation of the town of Kingston, viz. 2250,
the average of the country population of
these townships is J068, and this average
may be allowed to Fredericksburgh, Ma-
rysburgh, Hallowell, Ameliasburgh, and
Sidney, which are all regularly organized
townships ... . . . 5340
Pittsburgh, with Wolf Island, Lough-
borough, Portland, Camden, Richmond,
and Rawdon, though some of them are
organized, will not average above 300
each .... ,iflt .^ki^ ... . . . 1800
In Huntingdon I heard only of four
settlers, say ,.>r . -p_4< . . 24
And of none in Hungerford, Sheffield,
Hinchinbrook, and Bedford.
Total white population, 14,853
496 MIDLAND DISTRICT.
The Indians, on the Mohawk reserve,
amount to nearly 200
Total population 15,053
This tract is now, I believe, bought up by go-
vernment, and will make an excellent settlement,
being generally composed of capital land, with a
fine mill stream passing through it.
For the reported population of 7689, there ap-
pear to be 11 churches, and 5 resident ministers :
viz. 1 Episcopalian, i Presbyterian, and 3 Metho-
dists. There are 10 medical practitioners, 34
schools, and 78 taverns. In reflecting upon this
extraordinary number of taverns, it must be con-
sidered that there are, perhaps, near 1500 military
and naval people about Kingston, who are not
reckoned in the population.
Improvement is stated in four of the above reports
to be retarded by the great quantity of land held
by non-occupants, untaxed. In two reports, by want
of capital: in two reports, by the bad state of the
St. Lawrence navigation : in one report, by crown
and clergy reserves : in one report, by want of
labourers: in one report, by want of enterprise:
in one report, by the bad habits of the original
settlers, who were soldiers, and bad characters
from the United States: in one report, by the in-
discriminate admission of people from the United
State : in one report, by want of skill in husbandry:
in one report, by want of emigrants with capital:
in on* re port, by the great number of poor emigrants:
in one report, by the want of a provincial bank.
MIDLAND DISTRICT. 497
A canal has been talked of to connect the head
of the bay of Quinte with lake Ontario ; but on
looking to the ground, I found that the execution
would be more difficult than was represented;
neither would it be of much use in a commercial
point of view. In war-time it might assist in
playing at bo-peep along the shore, should the
Americans gain command of lake Ontario ; but in
that event the game would be of short continuance.
The same cause which has surrounded Little
York with a desert, creates gloom and desolation
about Kingston, otherwise most beautifully situ-
ated ; I mean the seizure and monopoly of the
land by people in office and favour. On the east side,
particularly, you may travel miles together without
passing a human dwelling; the roads are accordingly
most abominable to the very gates of this, the
largest town in the province ; and its market is
often supplied with vegetables from the United
States, where property is less hampered, and the
exertions of cultivators more free, accordingly.
K K
498 JOHNSTOWN DISTRICT.
WOLFORD.
January 1 1818.
ANSWER to Query 1st. The township of Wol-
ford, on the river Rideau, is situated north of Kit-
ley; south-west of Oxford ; twenty miles east of
the town of Perth ; and is 10 miles square.
2d. The township was settled in 1797. In the
census taken in the year 1817, the population con-
tained upwards of 300 of both sexes, and the num-
ber of inhabited houses is 55.
3d. Divine worship is performed once a fort-
night in one of the school houses, by a professor of
the episcopalian Methodist church,
4th. One medical practitioner at present.
5th. Four common schools ; three are paid 100
dollars per annum by the province ; the other is
paid by the inhabitants : the average price per
quarter to each scholar is 15s.
6th and 7th. Four taverns and stores.
8th. Three mills for grinding grain, four mills
for sawing timber, and one for carding wool. The
price for grinding grain is ^, for sawing timber f,
and for carding wool, 5d. per Ib.
9th. The soil is variable ; but generally a sandy
surface.
10th. Oak, maple, beech, pine, hemlock, ash :
but chiefly maple.
llth. None, except limestone and iron ore.
3
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 499
12th. Large quantities of limestone can be ob-
tained at two dollars a toise.
13th. Very few have been imde, except for
private use ; but large quantities of clay, near the
surface, of excellent quality.
14th. None for sale ; some for private use.
15th. Blacksmiths, masons, carpenters, &c. 7s.
6d. per day.
16th. During the winter months, seven dollars,
and the summer, from 10 to 12 dollars. In har-
vest, generally a dollar per day, or a bushel of
whatever grain he is hired to reap.
Women generally a dollar per week,
17th. Mowing or cradling an acre of grass or
wheat, 2s. 6d., including board.
18th. Clearing and fencing an acre, 41.; the
person contracting finding himself in board, &c. ;
if found in board, Si.
19th. An horse, 15l. ; a cow, 51. ; an ox, 81. ;
a sheep, 7s. 6d., if bought after shearing; if not,
the price various.
20th. Three pounds, and sells for 2s. 6d. per Ib.
21st. Beginning of November, and first of May
generally.
22d. Commences in December, and generally
ends in March : begin ploughing latter end of
April, or beginning of May.
23d. Fall wheat generally sowed in September;
spring wheat in beginning of May, and reaping
commences, — winter wheat in the beginning of
August, and spring wheat, and other grain, about
the first of September.
K K 2
500 JOHNSTOWN DISTRICT.
24th. A bushel and a peck, Winchester measure.
An average crop, when well cultivated, "20 bushels
per acre, and sometimes 25.
25th. If the pasture is good, and the ox not
worked, he will in general gain three cwt.
26th. A man who takes shares of crops on new
lands, if found ^ of the crop. Manure is generally
applied for all kinds of crops.
27th. Answered in the last.
28th. The price of wild land at the first settle-
ment of the township, Is. 3d. per acre, provided it
was remote from any settlement. According as the
township became settled, and increased in popu-
lation, wild lands enhanced in proportion, so that
at present it is worth 5s. per acre.
29th. Unknown.
30th. In tolerable repair, and passable in sum-
mer and winter for any kind of carriage. In
spring and autumn they are rather bad ; but are
capable of great improvement at a moderate ex-
pence. The water conveyance could be made
passable for boats of any burthen, without the as-
sistance of locks, &c. The government of this
province have it in contemplation to erect a canal
along the river Rideau, and continue it to Kingston,
which, if it succeeds, will be a great acquisition to
this part of the country.
31st. According to the number of settlers now
established in this township, the township has im-
proved in proportion. The province, in general, it
is not in our power to answer the cause that retards
its improvement. The only thing that would con-
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 501
tribute to the improvement of the township would
be to send out new settlers, distribute the crown
and clergy reserves, which occupies £ths of every
township. — STEPHEN BURRET, JOSEPH HAS-
KINS, Sen., WM. MERICK, JOSEPH HASKINS,
Jun., JOSEPH KNAPP, ASAHEL HURD, WILLIAM
N. EASTON, HENRY BURRET, CALVIN BURRET,
RICHARD OLMSTED, BENJAMIN MARKER, WM.
DAVIS, (Capt. 2d. Regt. Grenville Militia), DA-
NIEL BURRET, (Lt.-Col. 3d. Regt. Grenville
Militia), J. H. DAVIS, (Town Clerk), DANIEL
THOMAS, (Adjt. 2d. Regt.), NATHAN BROWN,
EDWARD Me CRAE, STEPHEN MERICS, THO-
MAS Me CRAE, JAMES Me LEAN, LUTHER CLIF-
TEN, EL. COLLER, EDMUND BURRET, HARLEY
EASTON, ABELE ADAMS, DANIEL Me CARTHY.
ADDITIONAL
To Mr. Robert Gourlay.
Wolford, 26th Jan. 1818.
SIR,
You will see our names to a former
letter addressed to you from this place. After a
more serious consideration of query, number
30th. The water communication of the river
Rideau is capable of great improvement by ca-
nalling, which may be done at small expence, for
boats of three tons, as most of the materials may
be obtained on the spot.
502 JOHNSTOWN DISTRICT.
31st. On the first settlement of this province,
or shortly after the disturbance in Europe com-
menced, and no emigration took place from that
country, the government of this province made
proclamation for settlers from the United States: a
number applied and obtained such titles as the
government were at that time giving, and sold
them, and returned to the states ; and the pur-
chasers have obtained titles of the same, and hold
their lands at so high a price that the poor are
not able to purchase. This is the reason that we
have to offer, and what impedes the settlement of
this province, or this place.
From the mouth of the river Rideau to Perth,
on the Tay, is a distance of about 70 miles, and a
small part a good settlement, and the other part
land good for settling, and the river affords a
number of excellent mill seats.
We are, with respect,
Your very humble Servants,
STEPHEN BURRET,
DANIFX BURRET, (Lt.-Col. 2d. Regt. G.M.)
WM. MERICK,
HENRY BURRET.
LANDSDOWN.
INFORMATION, answering certain queries pro-
posed in a paper transmitted to the inhabitants of
Landsdown, county of Leeds, U. C. from Robert
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 503
Gourlay, dated Queenston, 1817, respecting the
local situation, soil, produce, agricultural improve-
ments, &c. &c.
1st. Township of Landsdown, situated on the
river St. Lawrence, in width six miles in front
and rear; in depth, 16 concessions, or ranges of
lots about one and a quarter mile in length, and
about 80 rods in width.
2d. This town was laid out in June, 1788, as
was Leeds above, and part of the township of
Yonge below, at that time a wilderness of 30 miles,
and first lot taken up and first settled under the
patronage of Lord Dorchester, of Quebec, by
Oliver Landon, whose family then was a wife and
six boys, with a gift of 200 acres of land, called
Lord Dorchester's Bounty : the same man now
living in this town with nine sons, six sons' wives,
nineteen grandsons, and twelve granddaughters,
and also three daughters, with two children, being
31 grandchildren, and total 59 of his family. In-
habitants in the front of this township, 205.
Houses, 36, and all in first and second concessions.
3d. One school house, and for public worship,
Methodist every Sabbath, and occasionally Bap-
tists and Presbyterians ; but no settled preachers .
4th. Medical practitioners none.
5th. Schools, one assisted by government, 251.,
and by the people, 4s5l. annually.
6th. Stores, one.
7th. Taverns, or inns, three.
8th. Mills ; one saw mill.
9th. Soil composed of sandy loam and clay, and
504 JOHNSTOWN DISTRICT.
the surface level, and well watered with small
streams and springs, and may be considered as an
excellent township for wheat and grass, as well as
oats, pease, and flax, potatoes, &c. All kinds of
produce flourish, but much depends on the hus-
bandry of the land.
10th. Timber: oak, pine, ash, maple, birch,
beech, walnut, hemlock, black spruce, alder, willow,
and elder ; apples and plums, together with cherry,
will thrive here.
llth. Minerals, no discovery,
12th. But one quarry of building stone, and ob-
tained by digging, and that with ease, and of good
quality.
13th. Bricks have been made here, and the ma-
terials abundant ; are worth about six dollars per
1000.
14th. Limestone has not been discovered in this
town ; but abundantly supplied in the township
of Leeds adjoining.
15th. Blacksmiths- work : axes, 10s. ; horse shoe-
ing, 10s.; chains, per Ib. Is. 3d. ; masons, ,5s. to JOs. ;
carpenters the same, and boarded.
16th. Labourers: from 120 to 150 dollars per
year; ,5s. per day in haying and harvest, and
boarded.
Women per week, ,5s. house-work and spinning.
17th. Mowing grass, 2s. 6d, per acre. Reaping,
3s. 6d. ; cradling, 2s., board and lodging,
18th. Clearing and fencing five acres (for the
harrow and seed, for this is the way for the first
crop) 15 dollars per acre, not boarded.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 505
19th. Present price of good work-horse, from
50 to 70 dollars ; good saddle horse, sometimes
100 dollars ; cows, from 16 to 30 dollars, according
to size ; oxen, from 70 to 100 dollars ; sheep,
10s. to 15s.
20th. Average crop of wool from sheep in spring,
from 2lbs. to 5lbs. ; price of wool, 2s. to 2s. 6d.
per Ib.
2 1st. Cattle will do well in the woods at large,
if in good order, from the first of April ; but the
grass in fields is not a support till the month of
May. Time of taking in to feed from 15th No-
vember to 25th Dec. most general 1st Dec.
22d. The ordinary time of snows fit for business
is three months, and that generally steady, and
much to the advantage of the labouring teamster,
as well as for the convenience and pleasure of life.
23d. We commonly begin ploughing about the
15th April, for spring crops, and mostly have in
our spring seed in the month of May: winter
wheat last of August, and first of September: reap-
ing wheat the month of August, first half; oats
and pease last half.
24th. It is common to sow one bushel of wheat
on new land, if; early; and If on old land; with
respect to the quantity much depends on tillage,
from 20 to 40 bushels per acre.
25th. The pasture enclosed is common and
natural to white clover and English spear grass,
and on moist land, of which this town abounds,
yields an abundance very great. Cows will pro-
duce 120lbs. of cheese, and SOlbs. of butter, in the
•
506 JOHNSTOWN DISTRICT.
season ; and oxen are raised from six to seven
feet round the girt, and will weigh from 600 to
lOOOlbs. ; 60 to 100 weight of tallow.
Butter per Ib. Is. 3d. ; cheese, 7fd. ; the market
good; valuable mills that never fail; 7f miles
good road.
26th. Cropping on shares is various, and little
done here: manure serves well on all lands; but
is mostly applied around the barn and stable where
made.
27th. Land is rented at four dollars per acre ;
this is the worth annually. (Some mistake here.)
28th. Price of wild land ; at the first settlement,
it was sold at 51. per 200 acres, and has gradually
risen to one dollar per acre at a distance from the
settlement ; but on the road or river it may be
valued at three dollars per acre, and that without
any improvement ; in the centre of the town, from
three to six dollars per acre.
29th. The quantity of land for sale 50,000 acres.
30th. The main road leading through this town
from the province of Lower Canada is at present
quite passable for waggons in summer, and for
sleighs in winter, and will pot need great expence
to keep it so.
31st. The principal impairment which prevents
this township from being settled is the want of
spirited and industrious men, who having money,
might apply it with safety and profit.
Witness by us the first settlers,
OLIVER LANDON, JOSEPH LANDON,
BENJAMIN LANDON, OLIVER LANDON, Jun.
And six others.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 607
ELIZABETHTOWN, YONGE, LANDS-
DOWN, LEEDS, KITLEY, BASTARD,
AND CROSBY.
Elizalethiown, Dec. 1817.
SIR,
BY accident I saw your address to the
landholders of Upper Canada, and though I have
not the good fortune to come under that class of
subjects, I am not on that account less interested
in the improvement and prosperity of the province.
Your plan of laying before the British public the
true state of Upper Canada, in a statistical form, is
a good one, what I have long wished to see, and
as you are embarked in the laudable design, I wish
you all possible success. After a residence of
nearly seven years in the province, I am convinced
that the truth, relative to the country, in regard to
its climate, soil, and productions, together with its
facilities of trade and commerce, are only required
to be fairly stated, and extensively known, to
induce a respectable class of emigrants to settle in
the country, and cast in their lot with ours.
No assertion can be more true than the one you
have made, in your address respecting the ignor-
ance which prevails in England, in regard to the
fertile regions of Upper and Lower Canada. The
want of information relative to Canada, I believe
is more general in England than either in Scotland
or Ireland. Perhaps in Germany, from whence it
would be exceedingly desirable to draw settlers,
508 JOHNSTOWN DISTRICT.
the country is little known but as the habitation of
savages, and the regions of beasts of prey. The
publication therefore of the statistical account in
the language of that country, is highly important.
You have indeed undertaken a laborious work ;
but I hope, as you have " put your hand to the
plough, you will not look back/' Allow me, Sir,
to cheer your mind under your toilsome work. Be
not discouraged by the supineness of some on the
one hand, or the envy and malignity of little
minds on the other. Keep in view the end of your
work, and contemplate the satisfaction you will
experience, in not only forwarding the happiness
of numerous families in Britain, and on the conti-
nent of Europe, but the essential benefits you
will render to the parent state, and to these long —
too long neglected provinces. Yes, Sir, in passing
through the country, you have seen a powerful
empire in embryo, and its own natural resources
are calculated to raise it to wealth and prosperity.
May God grant, that when cultivated farms, po-
pulous villages and cities, shall deck the face of the
country, and the arts and the sciences spread their
benign influence, the inhabitants may exemplify
all the virtues of love of country, and piety.
I conceive it a duty to transmit to you some
account of this part of the country, in case you
should not be supplied with a better. I shall
commence with ELIZABETH-TOWN, which is the
ninth township in ascending the river St. Law-
rence. It is situated (see the map as usual). It
is of the usual dimensions, about 10 miles on the
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 509
river in width, and about 14 from front to rear. It
was settled in 1783. From the line of the town-
ship, about two miles below the village of Brock-
vilie, the front presents a handsome and gradual
slope to the river, which flows with a gentle cur-
rent, and is nearly two miles in width. A few
islands deck the bosom of the St. Lawrence, which
affords a pleasing relief to the eye, in viewing the
expanse of water. In some parts of the front the
land is stony ; in others it is sandy. But in ge-
neral the soil is good, and rather preferable in the
back parts of the township. Limestone every
where abounds, excepting on the front above
Brockvilie, where the face of the country under-
goes a considerable change. High banks, huge
and impending rocks, composed of a hard granite,
producing but little vegetation, excepting in the
intervals, and in the cracks and crevices, where a
few stunted pine and hemlock raise their never-
changing foliage ; these, together with the morse
and large masses of rocks, present a gloomy and
romantic view to the traveller. The rocks, how-
ever, are of an excellent kind for mill stones. The
land immediately back of the rocks (and these
only occupy a few acres in front), is of a very
superior quality, for all kinds of English grain and
pasturage.
The forests abound with oak, maple, basswood,
beech, birch, ash, pine, hemlock, cedar, iron wood,
elm, &c.
The village of Brockvilie is named from the
gallant chief who fell in the battle of Queenston.
510 JOHNSTOWN DISTRICT.
It is beautifully situated on the banks of the river,
and is considered one of the handsomest villages
in Upper Canada. There are 16 two story dwel-
ling houses, and 44 of various other dimensions, a
number of which are built with elegance and taste ;
three of them are built with brick, and two of
stone: In all, there are 64 dwelling houses and
retail stores.
The court house is an elegant brick building.
It is built on the rise of ground, from which there
is a beautiful and regular declivity to the river, and
commands an extensive prospect of the adjacent
country.
The Presbyterian church is erected on the west
side of the court house. It is a stone edifice, 60
feet by 40. It is considered the most stately public
building in the province. It presents an elegant
front, with a projection of two feet; the corners of
the projection, the doors and windows, and the
two front angles of the building, are composed of
cut or wrought stone.
Brockville is a place of considerable trade, it
being the outlet of a rich, extensive, and well
settled country back. It is likewise opposite the
grand turnpike road, which leads to Utica, Albany,
Sackett's Harbour, and other important places in
the United States. Large stores and wharfs have
lately been erected to conduct the forwarding trade
on the river and lakes. Various mechanical em-
ployments go forward ; blacksmith's work (there
are three blacksmiths), carpentering, tanning and
currying, saddle and harness making, shoemaking*
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 511
tailoring, &c. There is one grist, and one saw
mill in the village ; 1 grist mill, 1 carding machine,
and 3 saw mills, in the vicinity ; these, with other
things of minor importance, keep the place in con-
siderable life.
Near the centre of the township is a salt spring ;
but no use has ever been made of it, excepting
that the cattle and deer frequently resort to it.
About two miles from the west line of the town-
ship, there appears, from some specimens of stone
which lie on the surface, to be a quarry of free-
stone ; but the quarry has never been sought for, and
of course no buildings have been raised with them.
Iron stone is found in some places, and ftbm the
appearance of a metallic substance that has been
found between the first and second concessions
among the rocks, lead, or copper, or perhaps silver,
is likely to be deposited. The substance referred
to, has the appearance of gold, or rather like some
pieces of coal of a glossy yellow, but much heavier.
Some of it has undergone chymical process ; but it
evaporated with a sulphureous smell. From what,
however, the writer of this article has learned, the
experiment was hardly satisfactory. It is also
reported that several boat loads of it have been
taken away by some Americans.
The roads in this township are pretty good for
Upper Canada: speaking of them generally, they
are the best I have seen in any town in the pro-
vince. The whole of the front road is pretty good
in <dry seasons ; and the road from front to rear,
leading to Perth, Bastard, &c. is almost all turn-
512 JOHNSTOWN DISTRICT.
piked : roads, however, capable of great improve-
ment. Ditching, a thing much neglected through-
out the province, has, in some places, been tried
with good success ; but it is by no means general.
What is called turnpiking, or throwing up dirt
in the centre, is much more common. The roads
made in this manner, are by far too narrow to
admit two loaded waggons or sleighs to pass with
ease and safety,
In the vicinity of Brockville, lands have risen
400 per cent. The price of lands in the rear,
however, has not risen so high ; for fifteen years,
perhaps, they have not risen more than 50 per cent.
In some parts of the township, lands may be
bought at three dollars per acre. In this township
there are one Presbyterian church, and one Me-
thodist meeting house; nine saw, 'and five grist
mills ; two carding machines, and two fulling
works, --lii v->;
The Presbyterian minister preaches every sab-
bath in Brockville; "the Episcopalian minister
every other sabbath ; but there is no church ; the
congregation meets in the court house.
Price of lime at the kiln, 6d. per bushel ; price
of bricks per thousand, 11. 10s. ; building stone,
per cord, 7s. 6d. ; wages of masons, carpenters,
blacksmiths, &c. from 5s. to 7s. 6d. per day : price
of butter Is. 3d. ; of cheese 7£d. per Ib.
YONGE is the tenth in the front range of town-
ships in Upper Canada: it was settled in If 86.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 513
To Yonge is now added the Gore, formerly called
Escott, so that this town is about five miles wider
on the river than it is in the rear. In the back
parts of the township, limestone is found in great
abundance, and, in some places, iron stone. The
soil is various ; in general it is good, excepting
on the front, where it is broken and rocky. The
rocks are composed of a white stone, with a num-
ber of sparkling particles : it is probable that quar-
ries of marble may be found, but the attention of
the people is chiefly devoted to agriculture, and
every thing not immediately connected with this, is,
not an object of inquiry or enterprise. The river St.
Lawrence is about five miles wide in front of the
town. On Bridge island, opposite the township, is
the blockhouse, which commands an extensive
prospect of the river.
In this township there are farms of one and
two hundred acres, with ten or twelve acres of
improvement, and a log house, which have been,
and are yet for sale, at three dollars per acre.
In Yonge there are ten saw and four grist
mills ; two carding machines. The timber the
same as in Elizabeth town.
LANSDOWN is the eleventh in ascending the
St. Lawrence. It was first settled in 1786. The
front is broken and rocky, the soil rather poor, and
the farms in a bad state of cultivation, for want of
industry and energy of the occupiers.
The land improves much in the rear, where
L L
514 JOHNSTOWN DISTRICT.
there are some excellent farms in a praiseworthy
state of cultivation. The price of land from a
late actual sale is two dollars per acre. The
front road through this town to Kingston is very
bad ; the back is rather better. Lime and iron-
stone are found in various parts of the township.
The timber the same as Elizabethtown, and
Yonge. In the river, which is very wide, are
some large islands, of a very superior quality in
point of soil, and from whence large supplies of
oak and pine timber for the Quebec and Montreal
markets have been had. The temperature of the
air on the islands in the St. Lawrence is milder
than on the main continent, as the tender vege-
tables thrive more, and come to fuller ma-
turity. This may be owing to the humidity of
the atmosphere, occasioned by the large body of
water in which they are enveloped. There are
some inhabitants on the Grand isle, which is about
eight miles long, and on Grindstone island, and
some others ; but they have no title to the soil.
They are generally a poor and shiftless set of
people, spending too much of their time in fish-
ing and hunting during those seasons of the year
when they ought to be cultivating the land.
The rear of Lansdown is a good deal over-
flowed by the chain of lakes, called the Gan-
annoque. The large lake of this name has its
chief seat in this township. The scenery around
this beautiful sheet of water is surprisingly grand:
the water of the lake is remarkably clear: the
shores of the lake are various; in some places a
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 515
gradual slope is presented ; in others, shelving
rocks, with a variety of trees and bushes; but
where the foot of man never trod. In other
places perpendicular rocks of an immense height
strike the mind with terror, in the cliffs of which
the eagles build their nests; and in their dreary
caverns, beasts of prey have their dens. In
viewing the various objects which nature has
scattered in wild abundance, the mind is over-
whelmed with a kind of pleasing horror. Yonder,
a few small islands present themselves, rising out
of the bosom of the water: here, the rocks extend
into the lake, and form a variety of bays and pro-
montories: as far as the eye can reach hills rise
upon hills, and mountains upon mountains*, till
they mingle with the distant horizon, and are
lost in the clouds. The human voice reverberates
* My duty, as a statistical compiler, obliges me here to check
my Rev. Correspondent's poetical licence. There is no such
thing in Upper Canada as a mountain, according to English idiom.
The highest ground in the province, I believe, is " the ridge," de-
scribed in the report of Pelham township, to be 500 feet high.
I have traversed much of the country above described, in which
is Ganannoque river, its lakes, and many others. There is
throughout a wildness, irregularity, and romantic beauty, very
peculiar. There are scenes approaching to " the Troshack's wildest
nook ;" but there is no Benvenue, Benlomond, nor Benmore.
There is enough to inspire the Muse, and give her delightful sen-
sations; but nothing of the sublime, even though the cliffs afford
security to the eagle. In the remote parts of the province,
towards lake Superior, &c. there are lofty mountains; but I
speak only of the settled parts, and the vicinity. — R. G.
L L 2
516 JOHNSTOWN DISTRICT.
from rock to rock. Nature^ is here seen in her
wildest dress, and the imagination is left without
control, while it wanders from object to object ;
indeed, every thing is on a scale of magnificence;
sublimity reigns in all her glories ; it only requires
the hand of industrious man to add the beautiful.
It may however be said, that sublimity reigns in
terror, for amidst all her grandeur, the eye has
to stretch far beyond the banks of the lake, and
then only we indistinctly discover a few spots of
cultivation.
The lake is about three or four miles wide ; its
margin (and that of all in the neighbourhood) is
rocky. Vast numbers of wolves, bears, &c. in-
habit this quarter of the country. The waters
abound with great quantities of excellent fish :
oak, pine, and other timber trees are found in abund-
ance, together with vast quantities of juniper
bushes, bearing a large and excellent berry; also
sumach, a species of white wood used for cabinet
inlaying. The lake in many places is shallow.
The township of LEEDS is the twelfth from the
province line on the St. Lawrence. It was first
settled in 1785. The land for some distance from
the river is exceedingly broken and rocky; the soil
of an indifferent quality throughout the township,
though there are some patches of good land here
and there between the rocks ; the surface in ge-
neral is uneven ; the township is thinly settled,
and cultivation has made but slow progress. In the
rear there are some farms in pretty good order.
Lime, iron, and freestone are found in great abun-
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 517
dance, and there is a stone which withstands
the action of fire.
In the river Ganannoque is what is called marble
rock, and no doubt there is a great bed of this
valuable material. It rises above the surface of
the water in the middle of the river. No use has
been made of it, except in making inkstands and
other trifling articles.
On the same river are the iron works, which
belonged to the late Ephraim Jones, Esq.: they
are in a state of ruin, and no great use was ever
made of them. The height of the fall, the con-
stant supply of water, abundance of ore, and other
advantages, render it matter of regret that so va-
luable a property is not put to use.
At the mouth of the Ganannoque, on the St
Lawrence, is a village of the same name ; the
number of houses small, one of which is two
stories. In the village are two grist and two saw
mills. The grist and saw mill on the east side
of the stream belong to Sir John Johnston, but
are in bad repair. The saw mill on the west side,
erected by Charles M'Donnel, is of a very superior
kind, supposed to be the best in the two provinces.
In this village are two blacksmiths' shops ; one
hatter, and two retail stores : timber as in other
towns.
KITLEY is in general a good township of land ;
but poorly watered, and in many places the soil
is shallow, It is fast increasing in populations
limestone abounds in it.
518 JOHNSTOWN DISTRICT.
The timber, excepting great quantities of rock
elm, is the same as other townships.
BASTARD: soil very superior, and many farms
in excellent order. Limestone, ironstone, and
freestone are all found in this township.
The Rideau lake extends into the rear.
In this township is the village of Stone Mills :
the mill here, belonging to W. Jones, Esq. is un-
questionably the best building of the kind in
Upper Canada. Besides the large grist mill, there
is* one carding machine, one saw mill, three stores,
and one blacksmith's shop. The main road through
this township is pretty good. Timber as usual.
SOUTH CROSBY, is well watered by the Ga-
nannoque waters ; it is very rocky and uneven, but
there is some land of excellent quality. It is
very thinly settled, and the roads bad. Timber
as in the neighbouring townships.
The following replies to your queries will an-
swer for all the above mentioned townships.
14th. Price of lime at the kiln, 6d. per bushel.
16th. Wages of common labourers, eight dol-
lars per month in winter, and thirteen in summer;
day in harvest 4s., or one bushel of wheat; wo-
men 5s. per week ; mowing grass, 5s. per acre.
18th. Clearing, fencing, and preparing new land
for sowing with grain, fifteen dollars per acre.
2
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 519
19th. Price of a good work horse, sixty dollars,
2 1st. May and November.
22d. Sleighing commences about the 20th of
December: ends in March.
23d. Sow wheat in September; reap in August.
25th. Price of butter, Is. 3d. per Ib.
27th. Terms of letting land on shares, half
the produce.
SIR,
I am sorry that I am not able to send
you a sketch of all the townships I intended.
Kitley, Bastard, and South Crosby are not so
full as I intended. To these I meant to have
added Montague, Elmsly, Burgess, North Cros-
by, and the four new townships in the Perth
settlement, viz. Bathurst, Drummond, Beckwith,
and Gouldburne ; but a throng of ministerial duties,
sickness in my family, and a disappointment in
the sources of information regarding some of the
towns, have prevented me from doing what I wished.
I shall, however, still keep the object in view.
Should you make it convenient to honour me
with a call at my house, four miles .and a half
above Brockville, I shall be extremely happy
to see you.
I a,m, Sir,
Your's truly,
WILLIAM SMART,
Minister of the Presbyterian Church, Brockville, and Missionary from
the Missionary Society, London.
To ROBERT GOURLAY, Esq.
520 JOHNSTOWN DISTRICT.
SUMMARY OF POPULATION, &C. &C.
Having no materials from reports whereby to
calculate the population of this district, I must
depend chiefly on rny own guessing, with the
qualification of having travelled at different times
in various directions through it.
Elizabethtown is one of the best cul-
tivated and most populous townships in the
province, and I shall venture to set down
its population at . ^M^y ^^'' * ^iiaV^ . 2,000
Yonge may rank next, at . \Mfes%( . 1,400
Augusta ........ !;J ':;>l. 1,200
Edwardsburgh ...... ;'*.' -ty~ ;>; 1,000
Bastard ...... ..... 1,000
Leeds, Lansdown, Crosby, Kitley,
Wolford, Oxford, and Gower, at 300 each . 2,100
Burgess, Elmsly, Montague, and Marl-
borough, together . . . . a$tff*y-^;f .&$$ .,
9,200
In the year 1816, a settlement of emigrants
began, under the direction of the military, in Ba-
thurst, Drummond, Beckwith, and Gouldburne;
and emigrants were also located in various vacant
places throughout the first mentioned townships
of this district ; but of these I take no heed in the
above estimate of population,
A few Indians reside in the islands, which are
thickly scattered in the river St. Lawrence, op-
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 521
posite to the townships of Yonge, Leeds, and
Lansdown, in this district ; but they are too un-
important to be of consequence in an estimate of
population, even if their numbers could have been
ascertained. Their chief occupation is fishing.
Now that the boundary line has been settled be-
tween the United States territory, and that of
Britain, through among these islands, the Indians
will probably be soon either driven off, or have
their right of soil, where they claim it, purchased
from them.
It will excite a smile when I plead excuse for
imperfect knowledge of the population of Upper
Canada, by mentioning that in various quarters of
the province, a report was spread that I was an
agent of the prime minister of England, sent abroad
to ascertain how far the people could bear taxation ;
and after the ministerial clamour was raised by the
York parson, public offices were closed against me,
and it was only with much trouble that I could
occasionally get hold of an assessment roll! My
present endeavours, however, will clear the way
to a more accurate account of this benighted corner
of the British empire, when low ideas will be ex-
tinguished, and party pique put down.
It was the military settlement at Perth, which
first engaged my particular statistical inquiries in
the province of Upper Canada. I reached that
place the 29th of June, 1817, and spent several
days there. At that time my intention was- to
have returned to England in September following ;
but that intention being delayed, I despatched the
following letter and statistical table, with directions
522 JOHNSTOWN DISTRICT.
that it should be published in the newspapers, and
a copy presented to Lord Bath erst.
To the Editor of any British Newspaper*.
Queenston, Upper Canada, Sept. 15, 1817.
SIR,
It will be remembered by many of your
readers that in the spring of 1815 proclamations
were widely circulated, inviting settlers to Canada.
Having myself occasion to visit this country,
I was curious to know what had been the result,
especially as I found, at Quebec and Montreal, very
discordant accounts respecting it ; most people
asserting that the scheme had failed of success, and
that the settlers were in a state of great discomfort
and discontent.
To ascertain the truth, I diverged from my route
about fifty miles, and spent some days at Perth,
situated on the waters of the Rideau, to which a
considerable body of the people, who accepted the
invitation of government, had been conducted.
Here I traced the reported discontent to some neg-
lects in the general management, and some ill con-
ceived petty regulations, capriciously exercised
towards people tenacious of their rights ; but in
the main, universal satisfaction prevailed among
the settlers, and a strong feeling of the good inten-
tion of government towards them.
The opportunity being a good one, of ascertaining
the progress which a promiscuous body of settlers
* This letter, with the Table, was published, I find, in the Sa-
lisbury Journal of November 34, 1817, and other Newspapers.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 523
make in a given time, I constructed the annexed
table, and had each man's signature attached, at
once to prove the correctness of his statement, and
satisfaction with his situation.
Should you think this worthy of publication,
you are welcome to insert it in your paper. It
may draw attention to a most important subject,
the colonization of this province with British sub-
jects ; and should it reach Scotland, it may afford
satisfaction to many individuals who may not
otherwise know the condition of their friends.
The scheme which government adopted in 1815
was expensive. The settlers had a free passage,
rations, and tools : next year, rations and tools
were furnished to those who came out ; and this
year multitudes of poor people have come to
Canada in expectation of being favoured in the
same way, but are disappointed, having nothing
given but the land (100 acres each), which many
of them, from poverty, are unable to occupy.
Having made it my study, during three months
residence here, to inquire into the nature of the
country, and into every particular respecting set-
tlement, I am convinced that very simple mea-
sures might be adopted, by which the redundant
population of Britain could be conveyed, by a re-
gular flow, into Canada, instead of being wasted,
to the great prejudice of British interest, over the
whole of America : and were such measures adopt-
ed, this province could, in a very few years, be
quite equal to its own defence in war, against the
United States.
ROBERT GOURLAY.
524
STATISTICAL
Shewing the Commencement and Progress of Improve-
Original Profession
Settlers.
£
is
J
From what County.
From what Pariih.
Ij
«!
ft
1815.
i
I1
1815.
1
1815.
Sr Date of taking Pos I
5 icision.
A farm grieve . .
0
6
Perth
Callender
May 15
June 24
Sept. li
May 2
Son of tbe above,
19 years old
Weaver
0
1
0
6
5
Ditto
Ditto
Lanark
Ditto
Ditto
Carronwath
Ditto
June 2
May 31
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
Sept. 16
Aug. 10
May 32
May 15
Dyer and Clothier
Shoe-maker ....
1
6
Murray
Rolhes
April 2
Ditto
Sept. 12
May 1
Ship-master
Weaver . ,
1
1
Wif
chile
atb
0
0
0
0
3
5
e&l
Heft
•me
0
0
0
0
Ayrshire
Lanark
> Forfar
Ditto
Forfar
Dumfries
Lanark
Kelbride
Glasgow
Dundee
Ditto
St. Vigin
Dunscore
Glasgow
Aprils
June 2
June 1
Ditto
Ditto
June 24
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
June 27
June 34
Ditto
Sept. 15
Sept. 12
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
May 13
Ditto
Ditto
April 13
Aug. 19
Ditto
Mason j
Millwright
Farm-labourer . .
Mason
Ship-Carpenter. .
Schoolmaster....
Farmer
1
1
0
1
1
1
8
6
3
7
9
6
3
Dumfries
Ayrshire
Edinburgh
Perth
Lanark
Lanark
Lanark
Hutton
Kilbirnie
New Greyfriars
Callender
Glasgow
Glasgow
Glasgow
May 26
June SO
May 19
May 15
une 34
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
June 30
June 34
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
Sept. li
Sept. 15
Ditto
Sept. 161
June 7
April n
April 23
June 1
May 13
May 20
April 17
Whitesmith ....
Farmer
Weaver - . ....
Farmer
Farm-labourer ..
Widow of William
Holderness....
0
6
Yorkshire
Boebwith
April 9
Ditto
Sept. 15
May 20
Farm-labourer ..
0
0
Berwickshire
Coldenholm
une 36
Julys
Ditto
April 31
Shopkeeper
1
1
Edinburgh
Canongate
April li
June 33
Sept. 17
June 15
Clerk in Proper-
ty-tax ..
!
1
1
Ditto
Ditto
Corsdorfin
Ditto
une 13
Ditto
June 34
Ditto
Sept. 15
Ditto
April 20
Ditto
Gardener
Totals
15
7*
0
0
0
0
0
0
The original table contained double the number of settlers exhibited above ; but tbeae
TABLE.
525
ment, in 13 months, of the Emigrant Settlement at Perth.
1
51 •
ii
i
No. of Acres chopped.
No. of Acres cleared.
No. of Acres in Wheat.
No. of Acres in Oats.
No.ofAcresinPotatoesJ
&c.
1
S«
°1
JS
i*
1
No. of Cows, &c.
No. of Oxen.
Declaration and Signature.
18 feet by 20
9
*i
3
H
1
100
|
0
Well satisfied— Peter Me Pher sou.
0
4
3
9
0
1
1
0
1
Well satisfied— William Me Pherson.
il by 18 and 4
10
7
*
i
2
109
3
1
Well satisfied-James Me Laren.
86 by 91
9
8
34
U
3i
15
2
0
Well satisfied— James Taylor.
20 by 18
13
8
*4
i
3
95
8
0
Well satisfied— John Simpson.
91 by 17
7i
5
4
0
1
(
1
0
Well satisfied— James Miller.
96 by 80
6
*1
3*
i
l{|
35
1
0
Well satisfied— Hugh Me Kay.
26 by 19
9
8J
4
8J
3
30
1
1
Well satisfied-For Win. Spalding,
) and self; Win. Rutherford.
19 by 10
64
6
4
0
9
0
0
1
c
18 by IS
6
6i
S
i
U
I
0
0
Well satisfied— John Hay.
Half of 29 by 22 t
Ditto
1
6
9
0
S
30
0
0
$ Well satisfied-For self and partner,
}Thos. Me Lean; Archibald Morrison.
S3 by 19
7i
0
S
i
3
60
0
0
Well satisfied-John Holiday.
23 by 16
»i
6i
»4
4
^
95
3
1
Well satisfied— Alexander Me Farlane.
22 by 1*
6
4
H
0
1
20
1
0
$Well satisfied— James Me Donald.
1 His X mark.
24 by 91
6
5
24
i
9
SO
1
0
Well satisfied— John Ferguson.
31 by 18
64
*i
2
4
2
25
1
0
Well satisfied— John Flood.
22 by 18
8*
44
34
0
1
16
1
0
Well satisfied— William Me Gille vry.
18 by 16
8
6
4
0
2
40
0
1
Well satisfied— John Brash.
99 by 20
7
54
4
0
1|
20
1
0
Well satisfied— Ann Holderness.
House burned down
n
*i
4
0
4
0
0
0
Well satisfied— John Miller.
16 by 16
10*
7
4
i
•1
20
1
0
Well satisfied-Wm. Old.
18 by 13
H
34
2i
i
i
50
1
1
Well satisfied— Francis Allan.
18 by 12
6
54
34
1
i*
12
0
0
Well satisfied—Thomas Cuddle .
0
1744
1224
79J
If
Hi 69*
23
7
are sufficient for the present purpose. The account was taken 1st and 3d July, 1817.
526
TABLE
Shewing the Progress of Improvement, in 24
months, at Perth.
Names of Settlers.
No. of
Acres
chopped.
No. of
Acres
cleared.
No. of
fell1
No. of
Acres in
other
Crops.
No. of
Pounds
of
Maple
Sugar
made.
No. o
Cows
Oxen.
Peter Me Pherson and Son .
19
16
19
16
5£
5
5
5
70
80
2
3
4
2
14
11
4*
3
82
4
0
John Simpson
14
13
5
4
50
2
2
James Miller
7
7
li
0
1
o
Hugh Me Kay
10
9
3
3
60
?
o
Win. Spalding
18
17
8
6
90
2
2
Wm. Rutherford
10
8
6
2
o
1
2
John Hay
12
10
8
2
o
o
O
Archibald Morrison
4*
4*
3
U
o
o
0
10
^2
10
9
1
120
o
JohnHaliday
14
12
6*
5*
100
1
2
Alexander Me Farlane
16
10
13
9
8
4
5
5
30
30
3
3
1
John Ferguson . . .
g
7
5
2
55
1
3
CfJ
Wm. Me Gillevry
10
8
5
3
o
3
0
John Brash •• ••
12
9
5
4
70
3
9
8
34
44
50
3
John Miller
10
8
5
3
40
1
0
Wm.Old
13
10
5
5
30
4
0
Francis Allan
7
7
3
4
65
2
9
8
3
5
20
2
2
Totals , ,.
2594
2284
114
82
1092
44
00
104-
9$
4-?
3i
454
The chief part of the above table was drawn out hy Mr. Allan, one of the
settlers, at my request, the 1st of June, 1818, say two years from the first
settlement ; and I filled in the particulars regarding the first eight names,
upon a visit to Perth, three weeks afterwards.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 527
There are several reasons for my requesting the
reader's particular attention to the above tables.
First, he may compare the condition as to stock,
and other circumstances, of these emigrants, with
those of the settlers in the former tables, a matter
which I shall, in another place, particularly remark
upon : he may mark the monstrous waste and want
of good arrangement in this instance of a government
attempt to settle Upper Canada with British subjects,
by inspecting columns 6, 7, 8, and 9, of the first
table. From the two first of these columns it
appears that the settlers were, one with another,
more than a month from leaving home till they
embarked : and from the other columns that they
were more than a year before they got possession
of their lands in Upper Canada, — more than a year
Jiving upon government allowance, altogether idle,
and sickening with idleness ! But before proceeding
with the subject, I shall here copy in the pro-
clamation, &c. published in Britain, to which I
alluded in my letter, addressed to British editors,
above quoted.
528 JOHNSTOWN DISTRICT.
" BY THE AUTHORITY OF HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS
THE PRINCE REGENT, ACTING IN THE NAME,
AND IN BEHALF OF HIS MAJESTY, AND COMMU-
NICATED BY THE RIGHT HON. EARL BATHURST,
ONE OF THE PRINCIPAL SECRETARIES OF
STATE.
« BRITISH PROVINCES IN NORTH
AMERICA.
" Liberal Encouragement by his Majesty's Govern-
ment to Settlers inclined to proceed from Great Bri-
tain and Ireland , and Provision by Vessels, fyc.for
their Passage to Quebec with their Families.
" It is the intention of his Majesty's government
to encourage SETTLERS to proceed from Great
Britain and Ireland to the British provinces in
North America, and for this purpose a certain
number of vessels will be appropriated for the con-
veyance of such persons as may be properly recom-
mended, together with their wives and children,
to Quebec, to which port only the conveyance of
settlers free of expence, with other advantages,
will be limited during the year. The lands will
be granted to them either in Upper or Lower
Canada ; in which extent is comprehended a
choice of climate and of soil, adapted for every
branch of cultivation.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 629
" The encouragement and advantages intended
to be afforded to settlers, will be as follows : —
" A passage and provisions during the voyage
will be furnished by government, and on their
arrival in the colony, a grant of 100 acres of land
will be secured to each family, of which they will
be put immediately in possession, and all their
male children actually residing in the province
will be entitled, on attaining the age of 21 years,
to a similar grant of 100 acres each.
" For the first six or eight months, as it may be
found necessary, after the arrival (in order to enable
the settlers to establish themselves upon their
respective grants, and to clear and to cultivate a
portion of the land), they will be allowed rations
from the public stores ; and, in case, from unforeseen
events, it should be found requisite, further aid, in
this respect, may be afforded according to the cir-
cumstances of the case, by issuing rations for a
limited period, at a price under prime cost.
" Axes and other necessary implements will also
be furnished to them, under certain regulations, at
a fixed price, not exceeding half the prime cost.
" Should any number of families, proceeding from
the same part of the United Kingdom, or possessing
any joint stock or funds, be desirous of settling in
the same neighbourhood in Canada, care will be
taken to allot them lands as nearly as possible con-
tiguous to each other ; and a sufficient portion of
land will be appropriated in the midst of such
settlers for a church, and for the maintenance of
a clergyman and schoolmaster; and in case a suf-
M M
530 JOHNSTOWN DISTRICT.
ficient number of settlers so united, should be ac-
companied from the United Kingdom by a person
of either of the above functions, who possesses
their confidence, and can be well recommended,
and who shall be approved of by government, a
salary will be provided of 1001. per annum to such
minister, and 501. per annum to the schoolmaster,
for such period as shall afterwards be specified.
" Persons who may be allowed to proceed to Ca-
nada as SETTLERS FROM SCOTLAND, must em-
bark in the month of April from such Port or Ports
in the Clyde, as shall be noticed in a future adver-
tisement, where vessels will be ready to receive
those for whom the necessary accommodation will
be provided.
" In order to prevent persons from making an un-
warranted and improper use of the liberality of
government, it will be required that every person
embarking for Quebec, should at the time of em-
barkation deposit in the hands of the government
agent the following sum : —
" Every male person above sixteen years of age,
161. sterling: every woman, being the wife of any
person so embarking, 21. 2s. : children under six-
teen years of age will be conveyed free of ex-
pence ; and whatever sums may be so paid by them
will be rep iid to them or their representatives in
Can. .da, at the end of two years from the date of
their embarkation, upon its being ascertained that
they are settled on the grant of land allotted to
them.
" John Campbell, Esq. writer to his Majesty's
2
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 531
signet, Abercromby Place, Edinburgh, is appointed
by government, commissioner and general agent
in Scotland for this business, to whom communi-
cations may be made.
<% As the time for embarkation of settlers is limited,
such as are at a distance, and who wish to em-
brace the present opportunity of settling in British
America, will do well to send by post their pro-
posals and certificates without any delay. Those
testimonials must certify the general good charac-
ter of applicants — their professions — former pur-
suits— whether married or widowers — the num-
ber of their children, distinguishing male and
female; and the ages of all. These must be ob-
tained either from justices of the peace, clergymen,
or elders of the parish, or other respectable persons.
" It is recommended that the utmost care be taken
by those who grant certificates, that they are sa-
tisfied, from personal knowledge, of the facts con-
tained in the representation of the circumstances.
" Abercromby Place, Edinburgh, Feb. 22d, 1815."
EXPLANATION OF THE FOREGOING
CONDITIONS.
THE commissioner in the agency for government,
has received a vast number of letters, requesting
information in regard to the terms that have been
published for applicants, to be settlers in Canada.
It has been impossible to give answers to all
M M 2
532 JOHNSTOWN DISTRICT.
these letters consistently with the necessary at-
tention to other branches of this business, especially
as the time of embarkation fixed by government,
(i. e. in April, in the Clyde) fast approaches.
Many of the questions put, may be easily solved
by an attentive re-perusal of these terms, or by hav-
ing recourse to intelligent neighbours, and are to be
found in all the newspapers published in Scotland,
for several weeks back, and they have been already
transmitted for publicity to every clergyman, and
will be immediately pasted upon every post-office
throughout Scotland.
They will also be seen or delivered at the office,
in Abercromby Place, Edinburgh, and at Mr.
Duncan's, printer to the university, Argyl Street,
Glasgow.
It cannot be too much impressed on the minds
of applicants, nor too often enforced by those with
whom they advise, that the wishes and intentions
of his Majesty's government are directed, not to
an increase of emigration from this part of the
United Kingdom, but to divert to the British
provinces in North America, the surplus popu-
lation, which would otherwise proceed to the
United States.
Accordingly, no solicitation whatever has been
used by this office to induce persons or families to
go to Canada,
The agent for government, agreeably to the in-
structions received, has uniformly abstained from
exciting any desire for leaving Scotland, that did
not before exist, and has repeatedly pointed out.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 63$
especially to the more ignorant of the persons ap-
plying, every circumstance of information, to pre-
vent disappointment, and to preclude the pos-
sibility of misunderstanding.
The following particulars published by authority
of his Majesty's government, will serve as an ex-
planation of the terms offered to settlers properly
recommended, and will supersede the necessity of
answering many of these letters, and of many
verbal inquiries.
LANDS*
1st. The settlers shall have the option as to the
province, whether of Upper or Lower Canada;
but the precise spot must be regulated by the
governor of the colony.
2d. The grants of land will be made under the
same regulations as all grants of land in Canada
are made. No new ones will be imposed.
3d. The grant will be made on their arrival, by
deed, free of expence, and will, as all other grants
do, revert to the crown, upon being abandoned, or
not cultivated by the settlers.
4th. In answer to a query which has been fre-
quently put, whether government sell lands in
Canada? — it will be noticed that there is no diffi-
culty in making purchases in Canada, or in ob-
taining leases of crown lands to any extent. Per-
sons with capital, who take out labourers, will
receive larger grants, proportioned to their capital,
and their means of cultivation.
534 JOHNSTOWN DISTRICT.
DEPOSIT.
5th. The deposit of 161. for persons above the
age of sixteen, and 21. 2s. for wives, &c. is indis-
pensable. No security can be taken in lieu of
money. This is intended both as a pledge that the
settlers shall perform the conditions on their part,
and to prevent persons from availing themselves of
a passage to the United States. It also prevents
persons of bad character from obtruding themselves
among respectable settlers.
CERTIFICATES.
6th. Applicants are desired to be particular in
the certificates they lodge, in terms of the paper
formerly published of 22d February last. The
requisites for certificates are as follow: viz.
I. General good character: applicants, who,
from misfortunes, have failed in their circumstances,
must bring a regular discharge from their creditors,
or satisfactory evidence of a fair surrender or com-
promise ; otherwise they will not be suffered to
embark, and shall forfeit their deposit. And for
the purpose of detecting any imposition in this
respect, the list of applicants and settlers is open
for inspection.
II. Occupation or trade.
III. Former occupation, if changed.
IV. Whether married, unmarried, or widowers.
V. The number of children, &c. who accompany
them, distinguishing male and female.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 535
VI. The ages of all.
7th. Recourse must be had to parish registers for
proof of marriages and births, or where this cannot
be obtained, other satisfactory evidence. Appli-
cation may be made for this purpose to magis-
trates, clergymen, elders of the parish, schoolmasters,
or other respectable persons, with a reference to
persons here or at Glasgow, when necessary.
8th. It will be necessary that those who have
made up their minds to proceed to Quebec, shall
immediately produce the necessary certificates, and
lodge their deposit, in order that when the number
is filled up for this season, the public may be ap-
prized, to prevent disappointment, especially to
those at a distance.
LIMITATION OF NUMBERS.
9th. His Majesty's government have judged it
expedient to limit the number to be provided with
passages from Scotland to Canada, for this season,
to 2000 persons of the age of sixteen and upwards,
with a proportion of children.
ACCOMMODATIONS ON THE PASSAGE.
10th. The freight or charge for children above
sixteen, and under twenty-one, to be paid for as
grown persons.
llth. Bedding and other accommodation will
be provided for each settler, the same as troops
embarking for Canada receive.
12th. If surgeons are required for the voyage,
they will be provided by the Transport Board.
536 JOHNSTOWP DISTRICT.
13th. If settlers shall export articles liable to
export duties here, or import duties in Canada,
they cannot be exempted from the usual custom-
house regulations.
14th. No travelling expence paid to Glasgow.
From thence the settlers will be conveyed in small
vessels to the transport vessels.
15th. Settlers will be carried out in transports,
under the same regulations as those under which
troops are carried out, two tons being allowed
per man.
16th. The necessary tonnage will be in the Clyde
in April, and proceed to Quebec as soon after as
circumstances will permit.
OTHER PARTICULARS.
17th. In regard to pensions of sergeants, privates,
&c. measures will be taken by government for
continuing their pensions, and for their payment
in Canada.
18th. As to single men (for instance, two bro-
thers), who may be under or above twenty-one
years of age, they go out as independent settlers,
i. e. each brother above twenty-one years old,
will have a grant of 100 acres. If one brother
only is above that age, he may take out his brother,
who will, on attaining the age, have a similar grant
of land given him under similar conditions.
19th. A young man, under or above twenty-one,
may take out his sister on the same terms as a
wife, as specified in the regulations, upon deposit-
ing 31. 2s. ; but not more than one sister.
TOWNSHIN REPORTS. 537
20th. The settlers will be forwarded as troops
are forwarded, from Quebec to their place of
residence, either on foot or otherwise, as may ap-
pear most expedient to the governor.
21st. Any settlers wishing to settle together, will
be permitted to do so, on stating their intentions
previous to sailing. Each settler above twenty-one,
will, whether single or in company with others,
have 100 acres, as stated in the conditions.
22d, Single women will not be permitted to
proceed as settlers, unless they are daughters of a
settler, or, as above mentioned, the sister of a
settler.
23d. No encouragement will be given to widows
with families, or without ; but their children may
go out as independent settlers, upon the footing
already stated.
24th. A wife may follow her husband at a future
embarkation, in case such shall take place, upon
her depositing 21. 2s.
25th. Grandchildren will be permitted to go out,
and will receive the same encouragement as chil-
dren accompanied by their parents, on their at-
taining the age of twenty-one.
26th. The term prime cost, as relative to imple-
ments and rations, is to be understood to be what
the articles cost in this country (Great Britain),
and is therefore sterling money.
27th. All persons above sixteen must make the
deposit required, whether servants or others.
28th. His Majesty's government are to extend
the bounty mentioned in the terms already pub-
1
538 JOHNSTOWN DISTRICT.
lished for clergymen, pastors, and schoolmasters,
without any distinction of religious sect, and they
will each be entitled to 100 acres. They must
each deposit the same money as the common
settlers.
29th. The assistance required in building^ their
churches, chapels, houses, school-houses, &c. or
enclosures, if such shall be required, must be given
by the settlers who accompany them.
30th. In answer to a query put, whether govern-
ment give arms and ammunition to settlers, or any
part of them, for protecting themselves ? they will
be protected, as all other settlers are ; but there is
no necessity, from the nature of the place, for arm-
ing individuals, except in the case of actual war ;
and in regard to arms for private use, every man
may in this exercise his own discretion, as in other
British dominions.
31st. Rations will be allowed, free of any charge
or deduction, for a limited time, as per conditions
of 22d February last. The governor will exercise
a discretion afterwards on this point according to
the circumstances of the case.
32d. It is not intended to encourage other me-
chanics than those who may be useful in agricul-
ture, or in making a first settlement ; such as car-
penters, masons, bricklayers, smiths, &c.
*#* No Person whatever in the Highlands, or
Hebrides, or elsewhere, has any delegated autho-
rity from the Government Agent> to induce per-
sons to become settlers in Canada.
Abercromby Place, Edinburgh, March 24th, 1815.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 539
Nothing, certainly, can appear more fair, can-
did, and liberal, than the terms, declarations, and
sentiments of the above publications of our home-
government ; yet I shall have reflections to make
upon them, in another place, which will not tally
with these characteristics. Here my object is only
to record facts, and arrange information as ground-
work for future reference and discussion. With
this view, it is proper to note what happened in
the execution of the scheme of emigration now be-
fore us.
Attention has already been attracted to the facts
staring from the statistical columns, that a month
was spent by the emigrants of 181,5, between the
time of leaving home and time of embarking; and
that a whole year elapsed from the latter period till
the time of their getting possession of the promised
land.
On their arrival in Canada, it appeared as if not
the slightest understanding with regard to them had
previously subsisted between the home and colonial
government. No land had been laid out for their
occupation, and surveyors from all quarters had to
be hastily put in requisition to effect this ; but so
late was it in completion, that at the beginning of
the following summer there was not room pro-
vided to hold the party together, and many strag-
gled off to other quarters of the country, much to
the detriment of the principal settlement. The
principal place of settlement lay 20 miles within
the wilderness, and through this the emigrants,
unaccustomed to the woods, and unskilled in the
640 JOHNSTOWN DISTRICT.
use of the axe, had to cut themselves a road, their
labour sweetened with the customary reflection of
Canadian farmers, that idle drones shared in its
profits ; that they were toiling for the good of non-
occupants ; and here a single family held possession
of 18,000 acres, the reward of General Arnold's
constancy during the revolutionary war of America*
While the settlers at Perth most readily and
warmly expressed to me their satisfaction with the
country, their farms, and the good intention of
government towards them, their complaints of bad
agency were almost unanimous, and, from some, bit-
ter in the extreme; indeed the whole country round
was loud in exclamations on this subject, and a
little specimen of the prevailing spirit and feeling
has appeared in one of the Kingston reports. In
that report, the word"/>wp/?zW does not seem very
polite ; but, in fact, it has turned out not only jus-
tifiable, but singularly appropriate, for one of the
persons alluded to has since proved himself to be
a thievish dog, by embezzling the government
stores to a great amount, and then flying the
country.
In my letter to the editors of British newspa-
pers, above quoted, I slurred over what I had then
heard as well as I could ; partly, because I did not
then believe the worst that was said ; partly, be-
cause it was not for me, publicly to proclaim the
misconduct of individuals ; and partly, because I
hoped to be soon home, where I might privately
communicate my information to those in authority,
who might effectually interfere. Now, though
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 541
interference or correction are out of the question,
it may still be of use to record some of the ways
in which the emigrants were maltreated, and ren-
dered uncomfortable, to shew how the most gene-
rous designs, and even well-conceived plans, may
be rendered abortive.
Some lots of land within the range of settlement
could not possibly be cultivated by a single hand,
from being flooded, rocky, or matted with cedar
trees. When a settler reported his lot to be of this
description, he had another location, or still another
and another, if they successively proved unfit for
occupation. By-and-by many of these lots became
notoriously well known, yet the agent would, with
the most wanton disregard of the time and trouble
of applicants for land, send them, perhaps a dozen,
one after another, to look at the same wretched
lot, only to wander for days in the wilderness after
disappointment. Often, too, the settlers would
come from a distance for the tools and other articles
promised by government, when the agent, merely
to indulge his own caprice and ease, would send
them empty away. Again, a mason, a tailor, or
other tradesman, might find advantage in quitting
his farm for a time, to work for others at his trade ;
that moment his rations were withheld, even
though his farm improvements were proceeding
under the hands of a hired axeman, better qualified
for this task than himself; but a settler might quit
his own farm- work, and perform jobs of any sort
for the agent, without being deprived of rations.
Such were the practices which went on for years
542 JOHNSTOWN DISTRICT.
at the Perth settlement, and which, however
grievous and well known to all, might have con-
tinued to go on, had not his majesty's servant
found higher gratification in the act which ren-
dered it necessary for him to decamp.
It will be observed, from the explanatory articles,
that the grant of land was to be made by deed, on
the arrival of the settlers ; but two years afterwards
this was not accomplished, and murmurs pre-
vailed on that account. The settlers told me
they did not fear for themselves; but were uneasy,
because the rights of their children were thus
held in jeopardy ; and it did, indeed, surprise
myself, upon talking on the subject with the officer
in charge, that "it was not meant to follow out
Campbell's rules," meaning the terms of the pub-
lished proclamation.
The proclamation provided that the deposit
money of settlers was to be repaid two years from
the date of embarkation. From the table it will
be seen, that the embarkation took place generally
about the 24th, 2?th, and 30th of June, 1815. My
first visit to the settlement was on the 1st of July,
1817, a few days after the two years had expired.
None of the deposit was then paid ; and as the
settlers, with few exceptions, had expended, by
this time, their last penny, the need of cash was
subjecting them to serious inconveniences. Many
of them said, if it had been punctually paid, their
growing crop might have been larger, as, in that
case, they could have purchased a full proportion
of seed for their cleared land, which could not be
obtained without the cash they had reckoned on.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 543
The settlers were here too impatient, and had, I
suspect, fallen into a mistake. They had calcu-
lated from the appointed time of embarkation
(i.e. in April), not the actual time. I spoke of
this complaint to the officer, and a few weeks
afterwards all was made good ; and, indeed, ul-
timately, government went far beyond the con-
tract with the settlers. By the proclamation, the
settlers could only claim rations for six or eight
months after their arrival, but these were continued
till August, 1817, and the crop of that year being
found deficient, from the effects of frost, half
rations were again issued, and continued to the
greater part till the harvest of 1818. Thus, in
point of expenditure, government went far indeed
to establish this settlement.
It was an experiment :, as we may understand from
the declaration in the proclamation, that the en-
couragement offered was " limited during the
year :" but what has been gained by the experi-
ment ? or, as an experiment, under such manage-
ment as set forth, was it a fair one ? As an expe-
riment, did it throw out any light as to the conduct
of ©ther schemes of emigration ? or did it give any
encouragement to the second experiment now in
operation at the Cape of Good Hope ? an expe-
riment which has embarked oOOO people to suffer
much misery, and at an expense of £50,000 voted
by parliament for the purpose.
Nearly two months ago, I learned from relations
and friends of those who had gone out as settlers
to the Cape, that their expectations were disap-
pointed as to the country, and within the last ten
544 JOHNSTOWN DISTRICT.
days the truth has burst upon the public through
the medium of the newspapers ; witness two let-
ters which I shall here copy from the Morning
Chronicle of the llth and 15th of September, 1820.
From the Morning Chronicle of Sept. 11, 1820.
An Emigrant's Letter from the Cape of Good Hope to
his respectable Employer, whose Service he left.
May 4, 1820.
DEAR SIR,
You told me true when you said I might as
well blow out my brains as come upon this expedition.
Indeed I have totally ruined myself. Government is not to
blame: they have done every thing for us that we can pos-
sibly expect. But the man who conducted us out grossly
deceived us in London respecting the place; and he has
now got 4000 acres of land for bringing us to this cursed
place, where he has left us altogether to shift for ourselves.
We were nearly five months on board, during which time
many quarrels took place, and the people or ship's crew
robbed the trunks and boxes : my boxes were robbed of
many things. Our leader never troubled himself about it,
or any thing ; and the result was that many respectable
families left us the moment we landed. On the 17th March,
when we got into Table Bay, not one of us was suffered to
land, except our leader, who gave us all an infamous cha-
racter ; and we were immediately ordered away to Algoa
Bay, and there landed and sent 150 miles in waggons to the
banks of the Great Fish River, where after measuring one
acre of land for each person to build his house on, they shot
us down like as much rubbish. The horror I then felt 1 can-
not describe ; I felt I had used you ill ; and for what ? a bubble.
I am trying to get back to Cape Town if possible, but
have but little hope of success. Lord Charles Somerset is
in London, I understand, or I should petition him to give me
a passage home.
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 54$
Although I have no hope of ever seeing you again, yet
could I ever return, and you would receive me, I never
would leave you. Your's ever,
(Signed) BARTHOLOMEW GUNNING.
P. S. We have not to blame government, either here or
at home. They have done every thing that was promised ;
but we have deceived ourselves.
ANOTHER LETTER.
Morning Chronicle, Sept. 15, 1820.
Graham's Town, Cape of Good Hope, May 27, 1820.
DEAR FRIENDS,— With grief of heart I write. I sent
home my account of our passage. We landed safe at Algoa
Bay on the 28th March, and went into camp for a few days ;
then went on our journey to Graham's Town. During our
journey, my wife was taken ill with the badness of the road,
as it is beyond all description: it is over mountains and
rocks almost impassable: sometimes we went down holes
four feet deep, enough to shake the strongest constitution to
pieces. After we got to Graham's Town, I went to get
some wine for my wife ; but the inhabitants durst not sell
any to the settlers. Somerset, the commandant, very kindly
gave me one bottle of Port wine for my wife, as she wa»
very ill, which was a great nourishment to her. After
leaving Graham's Town we found the road worse ; and after
ascending a very lofty mountain my wife looked down : she
seeing the road still rugged and full of stones, it turned her
blood, and instead of getting better, she got worse, and con-
tinued so till we got down to our unfortunate and miserable
destination, which we reached on the ninth of May. (Death
of his wife, &c. detailed.)
Here there is nothing but rocks and barren sands, sur-
rounded on one side by Gaffers, and on the other by wild
beasts. You will all curse me for coming : pray do not.
N N
546 JCTHNSTOWN DISTRICT.
Oh ! had I taken the advice of my departed wife, and that
of our friends, previous to emigration, then I should never
have seen this place. There is not one out of one hundred
but laments their folly, and wish themselves in England again,
with all its badness ; and we trust that the Almighty will
pour down his vengeance on those who induced us with fair
promises to thus emigrate.
When I landed at Algoa Bay, I had not one single
shilling, having been obliged to spend every farthing on my
passage, for the support of my family. Pray advise all our
acquaintances, who waited to hear my opinion of this part of
the world, to remain at home.
lOjt Your unfortunate Brother,
R. H.
WHAT a contrast do these letters afford to the
"•well satisfied?9--" well satisfied" —" well satisfied"
of my statistical table ! and what now is the
Chancellor of the Exchequer to say to proposals
for emigration to our North American colonies?
Lord Archibald Hamilton, on the 28th April, sug-
gested " an emigration to our colonies in North
America as the most effectual means of mitigating
distress.9' The Chancellor of the Exchequer re-
plied, that " before such a proposition was enter-
tained, it would be wise to wait for some account of
the colony at the Cape of Good Hope.'* We have
now waited, — we have now the accounts, and what
is to be said? Shall a third experiment be made
without due consideration, without consulting
principles and facts essential to be known, before
any experiment of the kind can have even a chance
of success ? The subject of emigration is of the
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 547
highest importance to be rightly understood, and,
at this time, when millions of people are starving
in the midst of plenty, for want of employment, or
throwing themselves for relief on parish funds, de-
mands the most deep and solemn attention.
Was it not clear that at the end of the war we
should have an overflow of people ? Was it not
clear to every one versed in the history of English
poor laws that we should continue to have a re-
dundant population, even for years after any plan-
could be made effectual, to correct the increasing
evils of these laws, and independent of every other
consideration.
Good heavens ! shall we be driven by conviction
itself to the alternative of deciding, either that a
British minister has no understanding, or no heart?
Surely it can serve me in nothing to be severe or
uncharitable; but, knowing as I do, that Canada has
store for the maintenance of ten millions of people ;
knowing that 50,000 could be annually transported
thither, with comfort to the individuals, and profit
to the nation ; having, for more than three years,
devoted my whole reflection to the subject ; having
offered myself to the Canadian parliament, and to
the British parliament, with a view to make good
this truth ; having been persecuted, nay, as to
worldly circumstances, ruined in following up my
purpose of inquiry as to it; and, at the present
time, struggling with impaired health to lay before
the British public this volume of facts, by which
common sense, humanity, self-interest, and duty,
may be invited to give their aid, can I bridle in
N N 2
548 JOHNSTOWN DISTRICT.
expressions of feeling and be held guiltless, when
cold-blooded dalliance openly insults a cause so
pressing, so imposing, and great ?
The veriest child that has the rudiments ot
geography, the most simple clown that can read a
page, may know that the Cape of Good Hope can-
not be compared with our North American colo-
nies, as a place for the comfortable settlement of
poor emigrants : — the Cape of Good Hope, more
than twice the distance from home, and to
which the cost of conveyance is five times as
much as that to Canada ! the Cape of Good Hope,
savage with rocks, sterile with sands, infested
with CafTers, and filthy with Hottentots! —
How can such a frightful waste be compared for
a single moment with Upper Canada, the most de-
lightful region upon earth ; — where winter's cold
tempers only to manhood, and summer's heat
warms only to love; where nature exhibits her
finest specimens of the sublime and beautiful ;
where she calls only for the touch of industry to
satisfy every want and desire*. Good God ! for-
* I must caution the reader against thinking, that, by using
lofty language, I am losing myself in the clouds. I use it for the
express purpose of arresting attention, not only to the vast superi-
ority of Upper Canada over every other country to which the Bri-
tish government can send emigrants ; but to the monstrous delu<-
sion of comparing it with the Cape, New Holland, and Van-
Diemen's Land, in this respect. Whenever Canada is spoken of
in England, an objection is instantly started to the climate. This
error has been riveted by the reports of merchants, who seldom
have drawn their experience but from a residence at Quebec and
2
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 549
give me for one more exclamation before I again
return to the drudgery of statistical detail and proof.
The government of Canada remonstrates against
the sending thither emigrants, because " the country
is already overloaded"!!! Twenty millions of
most fertile acres overloaded with a population of
100,000, and an annual addition of 10,000!!*
Gracious Being! pardon contempt and indignation
at such a monstrous and unblushing declare ion, —
such a glaring manifestation of delusion and mis-
management.
Soldiers discharged in Canada formed at first
the great mass of settlers in the newly surveyed
townships of Drurnmond, Beckwith, Bathurst, and
(jouldbourne. When 1 paid my first visit to Perth,
in 1817, I was told that nearly 1000 were then
located. Some of them were doing well, but many
Montreal, where the climate is no doubt disagreeably severe in
winter. It is quite otherwise in Upper Canada, where, in fact, the
winter is the most delightful season, and where, throughout the
whole year, the air is so dry, balmy, and elastic, as not only to
contribute to health, but greatly to lighten and stimulate the ani-
mal spirits ; indeed, where solitude, ignorance, and poverty, have
not degraded the inhabitants, the effects are very visible in their
conversation and manners : well circumstanced as to worldly
affairs, and independent of ministerial influence, they are brave,
lively, and generous-hearted.
* The emigrants who arrived at Quebec in 1819, amounted in
number to 12,500; but more than f of them, it was said,
went into the United States. Mr. Buchanan, our American
consul, directed about 2,000 British subjects, the same year, from
the States into Canada ; and to allow that 1750 emigrated from
the States into Canada otherwise, is allowing a great deal. This
would make up, in all, the sum of 10,000 above spoken of.
550 JOHNSTOWN DISTRICT.
were very unpromising as settlers ; and did indeed
remain only till the term of receiving rations ex-
pired, or till they acquired a right to sell the land
given them. This has been the uniform issue of
military settlements from first to last in Canada,
and in some degree also in the United States of
America. Soldiers, in general, choose their trade
only to indulge in idleness, and give reins to a roving
disposition ; and, after having spent 20 or 30 years
in the profession of gentlemen, cannot easily train
into the habits of sober and persevering industry.
At the first settlement of Upper Canada, it was
not uncommon for soldiers to sell their 200 acre
lots of land for a bottle of rum. Now-a-days, only
100 is granted, and settlers are prohibited from sell-
ing till after three years' residence, and the perform-
ance of certain easy duties. Still, I have been told
since coming home, by an half-pay officer of the
Perth settlement, that scarcely one soldier out of
fifty now remains there for good.
The deserted lots have been for the most part
filled up with emigrants from Britain and Ireland.
Rideau and Ganannoque rivers, with their many
lakes, profusely water the northern and western
parts of the Johnstown district; nor would the ex-
pence be great, to render these useful as water com-
munications. Little else would be wanted for this
than dams and locks. The proposal mentioned in
the Appendix to the Sketches, of communicating by
water from Kingston to Ottawa river is quite prac-
ticable, It was keenly entertained by the military
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 551
after the war. Plans and specifications were drawn
out, and advertisements appeared for months to-
gether in the Upper Canada newspapers for esti-
mates ; but who was to go to the expence of sur-
veying and estimating, while it did not appear that
money was provided to defray the cost ? — So the
whim flagged.
The military idea was solely bent towards the
defence of the province during war, and no doubt
a water communication this way might prove use-
ful on such an occasion ; but I must not lose an
opportunity of stating my most serious opinion,
that the maintenance of Upper Canada, as a British
province, should have small rest upon any scheme
so puny as this. The navigation now spoken of
would be of great service to the country for agri-
cultural and commercial purposes ; and for these
it should be kept in view, independent of the ad-
vantages to be derived from it during war.
Two courses were thought of: one by Ri-
deau lake, another more southerly, through Kitley,
by Irish creek : on both, there must remain a port-
age, without going to great expence. That on the
Rideau lake course is in Crosby, and only about half
a mile over. This course is every way the best.
From its portage the navigation is practicable
either to Kingston by its river, or to the river St.
Lawrence by Ganannoque. At Hoskin's mills, in
Crosby, the waters gathered in that township, may
be made to flow to Kingston, if required, by means
of a dam.
From the St. Lawrence, at Ganannoque river, to
552 JOtttfStOWN DISTRICT.
Stone Mills, which is the highest seat, the ascent
is as follows :
Feet. In.
First rapid from the St. Lawrence,
on which is situated Ganannoque
Mills 'Vi?.^-.^1?"?1 i • . . 15 0
Four rapids above the Mills ... 73
Marble fall and dam, 44 miles from
the St. Lawrence i;^,^ocl5V^Tl V1*1. 6 0
Furnace fall, 14 miles direct from the
St. Lawrence, and 30 by water . Id 0
42 3
The descent from Stone Mills to Kingston would
of course be a foot or two less than the above ;
and by six locks, either way, the portage could be
reached. Rideau Lake affords good navigation for
nearly thirty miles, through Crosby, Burgess, and
Elmsley ; and the river Rideau presents frequent
reaches of smooth, expanded, and navigable water,
which with locks and dams would readily form a
connected route.
In speaking of the Home District I could not
pass over the first traducer of my very innocent
statistical inquiries ; and no language but what was
expressive of extreme contempt could fitly intro-
duce the man. From his first onset I was aware
of his venom, and for months was gathering more
and more experience of his enmity before I judged
it necessary to put him down with exposure and
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 553
raillery. One of his pupils, and a fellow priest,
who held a church living in Johnstown District,
with a silliness which outmatched the master's
cunning, broke forth in a manner best calculated to
open the eyes of the public to the busy workings
of priestly intolerance. He published in the King-
ston newspaper an article attested with his signa-
ture, of Which the following extract is a part,
which can be completely judged of by the reader
of this volume. " At a meeting of a committee
chosen by the annual town-meeting of the inha-
bitants of the township of Augusta, in the Johns-
town District of Upper Canada, to answer certain
queries proposed to them in an address published
by one Robert Gourlay, and dated at Queenston,
October, 1817, it is unanimously resolved, — that it
is the opinion of this meeting that Mr. Gonrtay's
address contains PRINCIPLES INIMICAL TO THE
PEACE AND QUIET WHICH THnE INHABITANTS
OF THIS PROVINCE SO HAPPILY ENJOY/' If
the reader will have patience to pause, and re-
flect on this production of an established clergy-
man, re-peruse my address alluded to, and glance
back upon the Township Reports, to which it gave
rise, and which all but or*e are already produced, I
cannot help thinking that his time and attention
will-be well bestowed.
It is not for my own justification, or the dis-
grace of the poor creatures who opposed them-
selves to me, that I would earnestly beg attention.
I conceal the names of the two parsons, that the
study may be purely abstract ; and I bid the reader
554 JOHNSTOWN DISTRICT.
determine as to the spirit and mental faculties of
the unknown who could subscribe such a docu-
ment as the above, which, besides the visible
absurdity, contains a gross and audacious false-
hood ; for, on investigation, it was discovered that
the inhabitants of Augusta chose no such com-
mittee as that spoken of, and which was created by
the priest merely to give weight and effect to his
own personal opposition.
What principles my address contained which
could seem, even to the most jaundiced imagina-
tion, " inimical to the peace and quiet of Upper
Canada" I never was able to discover; and cer-
tainly the numerous subscribers to the Township
Reports seem to have discovered nothing of the
kind: in short, could there possibly be any thing
more harmless than the address, or the publication
in England of these Reports? What, then, in the
name of wonder, could stir up opposition to my
proposals? — opposition altogether unprovoked by
me, for I never had so much as a conversation with
the men in question — never mentioned the name
of the first in public till more than two months
after his rancour was notorious, nor ever even
heard of the name of the second till I saw it dis-
played in the Kingston newspaper. Here, how-
ever, is the surmise : I believe the plan hit upon,
of giving the people of Upper Canada an oppor-
tunity of declaring their opinions as to what re-
tarded the improvement of the province, had
alarmed the parsons. They could not but know
how much the clergy reserves were exclaimed
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 555
against; and they naturally dreaded that if this
were known to the people and Government at
home, they, the established clergy, might no longer
be allowed to remain masters and foul feeders on
such a vast extent of landed property, a question
with regard to which, had, for the first time, been
agitated in parliament immediately before my arrival
in the province.
Till the little dominie of Little York was unduly
raised to power and dignity, there were but four or
five episcopal clergy in the province, quiet, unpre-
suming, and inoffensive men, who had never, I
believe, entertained a thought, political, as to the
extravagant provision which had been made by
government for the maintenance of the established
church. The aspiring dominie, quickened with
extraordinary elevation, had fixed his eyes at once
on the mighty idea that episcopacy should remain
the sole and legitimate holder of the clergy reserves ;
and for these, I ween, had he, and his brother of
Augusta, born presbyterians, found it convenient
to exchange the cloak of Calvin for the party-
coloured robes of their adopted order ; nay, I have
been told that the former looks to being bishop of
the province.
Here, here, then, is the secret disclosed ; and
the discovery invites us to further investigation.
The statute of Geo. III. chap. 31, which gives
to Upper Canada its constitution, and declares
the limits of the same, provides, by clauses 36
and 37, for making " allotments of lands for the
support of a Protestant clergy;" and that " the
666 JOHNSTOWN DISTRICT.
rents arising from suck allotments be applied to that
purpose solely." By clause 38, it provides, that
" the governor, with the advice of the executive coun-
cil, may erect parsonages , or rectories, according to
the establishment of the Church of England, and
endow them with part of the lands allotted" as
above. By clause 39, it is " made lawful for his
Majesty to authorize the governor, fyc. to present to
every such parsonage, or rectory, an incumbent, or
minister of the Church of England, and to supply
vacancies.33 By clause 40, " presentations to par-
sonages, and the enjoyment of them, is made sub-
ject to rights of institution, and all other spiritual
and ecclesiastical jurisdiction and authority, which
have been lawfully granted to the BisJwp of Nova
Scotia, or which may, hereafter, be lawfully granted
to be administered and executed within the province
of Upper Canada, fyc. by the Bishop of Nova Scotia,
or by other person or persons, according to the laws
and canons of the Church of England." Clause 41,
admits that " provisions respecting the allotment of
lands for the support of a Protestant clergy, the
constituting, erecting, and endowing parsonages, or
rectories, and also respecting the presentation of
incumbents, and the manner in which such shall hold
emd enjoy their allotments, shall be subject to be
varied w repealed by the legislative council and
assembly, with the consent of his Majesty." But
clause 42, provides, that " any act of the legislative
council and assembly, regarding any of the bef ore-
mentioned questions, shall, before receiving the assent
of Ms Majesty, be laid before both houses ofparliament
TOWNSHIP REPORTS. 557
in Great Britain, and that it shall not be lawful for
his Majesty to signify his assent to such act until 30
days after such act shall have been laid before
the said houses, or to assent to such act in case either
house of parliament shall, within the said 30 days,
address his Majesty to withhold his assent; and that
no such act shall be valid within the province, unless
the legislative council and assembly of the province
shall, in the session in which the same shall have
been passed by them, have presented to the governor,
Sfc. an address, specifying that such act contains pro-
visions for some of the said purposes, and desiring
that, in order to give effect to the same, such act should
be transmitted to England without delay, for the
purpose of being laid before parliament previous to
the signification of his Majesty's assent tkerGte.^
Such are the heads of articles in the constituting
act which go to establish a dominant sect of re-
ligionists in Upper Canada; — articles, in the fram-
ing of which, I cannot think a single consideration
was given to the times — the place — the people, to
which they were to apply, and, which every man
of intelligence and reflection will allow, would be
changed by the British parliament, as soon as the
legislators of Upper Canada submit the ques-
tion. There is not one out of twenty of the
people of Upper Canada who range on the side of
episcopacy, and not one in a hundred who would
not wish to see the clergy reserves put to the ham-
mer; nay, look to the explanation of the procla-
mation for emigrants (page 538), and the liberal
spirit of modern times, as to religious sects, will be
manifest. Article 28 declares, that " his Majesty's
558 JOHNSTOWN DISTRICT.
government are to extend the bounty for clergymen,
pastors, and schoolmaster s9 WITHOUT ANY DIS-
TINCTION OF REI/IGIOUS SECT." To be sure;
it is common sense that they should, as long as
bounties are given for preaching, even from Roman
Catholics to Nothingarians.
What a contrast does the monstrous silliness
and illiberality of the established priest of Augusta
(now of Montreal) make with the lively, disinte-
rested zeal and benevolence of the missionary of
Elizabeth-town ! Mr. Smart owns no land in
Upper Canada, and has no selfish interest in ex-
tolling it, to attract emigrants for the purpose of
bettering his fortune: his heart has no yearnings
after clergy reserves, and no unworthy jealousy
holds him in alarm. He has witnessed the hard
condition of his poor countrymen in Britain, toiling
on sterile land to procure luxuries for wealthy
lords; and he sees spread out before him in
Canada an unbounded extent of the most fertile
soil, which might afford plenty to millions. He
feels for the poor, and exerts himself solely for
them. Here we see the difference between a true
minister of Christ, and a busy, jealous, and intole-
rant guardian of unrighteous Mammon. I did not
fail to accept the invitation of the reverend mis-
sionary; indeed, I went out of my way to sym-
pathize with a spirit so pure ; and after an evening's
pleasant chat, as to our native country, and the
blessings which might spring out of a well-regulated
system of emigration, went to rest with the special
benediction of the good man, who collected his
household at the accustomed hour, and closed our
communing, by communing with God.
TOWNSHIP REPORT. 559
EASTERN DISTRICT.
1st. CHARLOTTENBURGH is the second town-
ship in the province of Upper Canada: bounded
in front by the river St. Lawrence; on the east by
the township of Lancaster; north by the township
of Kenyon ; and west by the township of Cornwall.
It is 12 miles square, including a strip of Indian
reservation on the west side.
2d. The first settlement was commenced in the
year 1781, by a part of the Royal Yorkers (prin-
cipally Scotchmen). The population is 2,500,
exclusive of a great number of emigrants from
Great Britain since the month of June last. The
number of inhabited houses is about 500.
3d. The churches and meeting houses are one
church, and three meeting houses of the church of
Scotland ; one church (now building), and one
meeting house of the church of Rome. Both
churches are of stone. The clergy are, one minister
of the church of Scotland, and two priests of the
church of Rome.
4th. Two medical practitioners.
5th. Schools 12: average fees per quarter to
each schoolmaster, 151.
6th. Stores, 12.
7th. Taverns, 18.
8th. Mills: four grist mills, with two additional
pairs of stones, one of which additional pairs is for
hulling barley and oats : rate of grinding A : saw
560 EASTERN DISTRICT.
mills, six : rate of sawing, one half: carding mills,
one: rate of carding, 6d< per Ib.
9th. The soil generally is a black deep loam,
generally level, with some swamps.
10th. The kinds of timber are pine, oak, maple,
beech, elm, basswood, cedar, fir, hemlock, ash,
butternut, walnut, &c.
llth. No minerals yet discovered, but some ap-
pearances in different places. Limestone in great
abundance throughout the township : no remark-
able springs yet discovered.
12th. Building stones to be had throughout the
township : no price is paid for them, so that the
expence in getting stone is no other than digging,
carting, &c. to the building ground: quality, lime
and grey sand.
13th. Bricks ; average price, 11, 10s. per 1000.
14th. Lime, from 6d. to 9d. per bushel.
15th. Wages of mechanics per day, being found
by the employer, viz. blacksmiths, from 7s. 6d.
to 8s. 9d. ; masons, from 7s. 6d. to 10s. ; carpen-
ters, from 5s. to 10s. Rate of their piecework:
blacksmith (finding himself) for making plough
irons, chains, &c. from Is. to 3.3. 3d. per Ib. :
masons, for building six feet square, 10s., and 3s.
for each foot in height, of a single chimney in a
wood or frame house. Carpenters, for flooring
10 feet square, 10s., and 2s. for each pannel in a
framed door : 4d. per light for making window
sashes.
16th. The wages of labourers per annum is from
251. to 361.: per winter month, from 35s. to 60s.
TOWNSHIP REPORT. 561
per summer month, from 50s. to 80s,: per day in
harvest, from 3s. to 5s. : for women servants, per
week, for housework, .5s. ; and for spinning, from
5s. to 7s. 6d. per week, being found.
17th. Mowers' wages: for mowing grass, per
day, 5s. : for cradling, from 7s. 6d. to 10s. per day :
the kinds of grain generally cradled, are wheat,
oats, rye, and barley.
18th. For clearing and fencing five acres of wood
land (that is to say, cutting, logging, burning, and
fencing), ready for seed, 201.
19th. The price of a good work-horse, four years
old, is from 101. to 151. : of a good milch cow,
41. 10s. to 61. : of a good ox, at four years old, 101.:
of a good sheep, from 15s. to 17s. 6d.
20th. The average quantity of wool yielded by
sheep, is from 5lbs. to 61bs. : price thereof, from Is.
8d. to 2s. per Ib.
21st. The ordinary time of turning out beasts to
pasture is about the 25th April : of taking them
home to the yard, or stable, about the 15th Nov.
22d. The ordinary endurance of the sleighing
season is from the 15th December to the 1st April ;
and that of ploughing, from the 15th April to the
15th November.
23d. The ordinary season for sowing fall-wheat
is from the 1st September to the 15th November:
of reaping the same about the 1st of August :
sowing spring-wheat, from the 15th April to the
10th May ; and of reaping the same, about the 15th
August.
24th. The necessary quantity of seed is about
o o
562 EASTERN DISTRICT.
one bushel of wheat to an acre on new lands, and
little less than one bushel and a half to an acre of
old land : the average crop per acre is from 1 6 to
20 bushels.
25th. The quality of the pastures is generally
good, being seeded with timothy, red and white clo-
ver. An ox, of four years old, will gain, in the
course of a season, in pasture, about -j more. As
respects milk, and the quantity of dairy produce, it
will average from four to six Ibs. per week for each
cow ; the price of butter is from Is. to Is. 3d. per
Ib. ; and cheese, from 5d. to 8d. per Ib.
26th. The ordinary course of cropping new land :
wheat is generally the first crop sown in dry land,
and oats in low land, seeded also with timothy, and
will yield four to five crops of hay before it requires
to be let out to pasture : after pasturing a few
years, it is then ploughed up, and will answer
either for fall or spring wheat, and will yield three
crops, and then requires manuring, or letting to pas-
ture. Manure is necessary to produce a crop of
potatoes, or Indian corn, except in new land, or
the first crop after pasturing. Manure is frequent-
ly used for a crop of wheat also, in more sandy soil.
27th. Lands let out on shares, team, utensils,
and seed being furnished, one-half the produce ;
and nothing being furnished, one-third to the
landlord.
28th. The price of wild land for the first period,
say six years of the settlement, was from Is. to ,5s.
per acre ; and at present, is from 20s. to 30s. per
acre. A lot of 200 acres, with 30 acres clear,
TOWNSHIP REPORT. 563
under good cultivation, with a framed house and
barn^ with shade, &c. is worth from 5001. to 6001.
29th. The lands now for sale are a number of
valuable tracts in the front of the township along
the river St. Lawrence, and a number of lots in the
different concessions, amounting to several thousand
acres, together with a number of crown and clergy
reservations, which are leased to settlers at a mode-
rate rent.
30th. The state of the public highways is greatly
advanced within a few years past, and can be im-
proved at a moderate expence, the ground being
generally suitable for roads throughout the town-
ship. There are two main roads through this town-
ship, leading to the province of Lower Canada ;
one in the front, and the other near the centre of
the township, and both are sufficiently good for any
carriage whatever. The water conveyance is on
the river Aux Raisins, navigable for boats about
five miles from the St. Lawrence, and could easily
be continued to the adjoining township of Corn-
wall, by building locks at the different rapids on
said river.
31st. Not having the front main road completed
through the first township in the province, called
Lancaster, is a great bar against the improvement
of this township : the road is already so as to allow
the mail stage to run within three miles of the pro-
vince line : there are also five miles of the province
of Lower Canada without a road to join this main
road, which makes eight miles in all to complete
the land conveyance between the two provinces on
o o 2
564 EASTERN DISTRICT.
this route, which, if completed, would be of infinite
convenience to the province in general, as well as
to the inhabitants of the adjoining townships : also
the want of a few locks being erected along the
river St. Lawrence, between the towns of Cornwall
and New Johnstown, in the following places, viz.
Long-Sault, Galleaus, and Rapid Aux Plau,
(which might be done with little expence) greatly
retards the improvement of the province at large.
Another great detriment, both to the commercial
and agricultural societies in the province, is the
want of capitalists becoming settlers therein.
Char lot tenb uryh ,
6th Jan. 1818.
JOHN CAMERON, M. P. DUN. Me KENZIE,
ALEX. Me KENZIE, J. P. ALEX. CAMERON,
ALEX. FLETCHER, JOHN WRIGHT,
JOHN Me KENZIE, D. Me PHERSON,
PETER FERGUSON, LEWIS CHISHOLM,
PETER Me INTYRE, A. FRASER,
ALEX. Me GRUER, DON. Me KENZIE,
JOHN Me MARTIN, M. P. JAMES GUMMING,
JOHN Me LENNAN, ALEX. Me GILLIES,
WM. Me LEOD, ALEX. CLARK,
HUGH Me DONELL, ALLAN Me DONALD.
TOWNSHIP REPORT. 565
EASTERN DISTRICT.
SUMMARY OF POPULATION.
THE above exhausts the budget of regular
Township Reports put into my hands by the inha-
bitants of Upper Canada, for publication in Eng-
land. Having but a single one from this district,
I can by no means give an accurate estimate of its
population.
By the Report, CHARLOTTENBURGH
contained, in 1817 li; . :'>*'' . 2,500
CORNWALL, including its village, may
be reckoned to hold as many , */.. . 2,£00
LANCASTER, though double the ordi-
nary extent of townships (now by statute
divided into two), arid partly well settled,
contained, till 1816, a large portion of un-
occupied land. Its population cannot,
therefore, be reckoned at more than . 2,000
OSNABRUCK, WlLLIAMSBURGH, and
MATILDA, being front townships, and
among the earliest settled in the province,
are pretty populous. Osnabruck is settled
back to the eighth and ninth concessions.;
Williamsburgh to the seventh: Matilda
is marshy and unsettled through a consi-
derable portion of its extent. The three
together, I shall suppose, contain , , ,
566 EASTERN DISTRICT.
MOUNTAIN and FINCH are regularly
organized, and have considerable settle-
ments: WINCHESTER few or none; and
ROXBURY but few : altogether we shall
say . :;Jii ^v:«t . . «..;. . 1,200
12,700
There are a few families resident on the islands
of the St. Lawrence, opposite to this district; but
having neither a precise estimate of their numbers,
nor knowing how the boundary line between the
United States and Canada has determined their
cession to the one or the other country, I avoid
giving them any place in the estimate. The tract
belonging to the St. Regis Indians is now almost
entirely in the hands of white people, who hold
by lease, and are reckoned among the inhabitants
of Charlottenburgh and Lancaster.
It is painful for me once more to make excuse
for so imperfect an account of a considerable dis-
trict of Upper Canada, by referring to the illi-
beral jealousy which originated at the capital,
and had peculiar aids in spreading itself from
thence downwards to this place, where it did
not rest in mere sullenness ; but ultimately broke
out into fury and outrage. There was no secret as
to the cause of this. The parson of York had for a
series of years kept a school in the village of
TOWNSHIP REPORT. 567
Cornwall ; and here he had whipped a very con-
siderable portion of the youth into due submission,
before he was doubly installed in the pulpit and
executive council. Thus situated, no talent was
required but that of activity, to deal out favours in
such measure as to ratify an authority among
men which had been acquired over them when
children. Magistrates, members of parliament,
and militia officers, besides the attorney and soli-
citor general, had sprung up in the school of
Cornwall, and were all zealous in the cause of their
master.
The above Report of Charlottenburgh was in-
trusted by the body of subscribers to be forwarded
to me by two members of parliament, both worthy
honest men, and from one of whom I had received
the greatest civilities ; but such became the so-
lemn hum of suspicion — such the impression from
the ministerial, or rather clerical awe and dread,
after the Augusta parson had proclaimed that
my first address contained " principles inimical
to the peace and quiet which the inhabitants of
this province so happily enjoy," that this Report,
dated fifth January, 1818, was not delivered till
the month of April, and then only at the insti-
gation of another member of parliament, whose
letter, stating the doubts which had weighed
against the surrender, I still hold as a curiosity.
Under similar influences, other Reports were
withheld, and two, if not more, withdrawn from
the post office of Kingston, where I had directed
they might lie for me till called for. An attorney
568 EASTERN DISTRICT.
withdrew one of these, and finding afterwards
that I was to be prosecuted by Government, had
the impudence to disperse over the district wherein
I was to be tried circular letters by the dozen,
declaring that I had " sinister motives," and this
too while, by his own shewing, he was in ex-
pectation of pleading against me at the bar.
The people of the Township whose Report was
thus withdrawn, when they saw what had been
done, furnished me with another, and publicly
expressed in the newspapers their disapprobation
of the attorney's conduct, who was, in fact, a
notorious fool and blackguard. The other Report
was withdrawn by a person of a very different
character, a worthy magistrate. Being assured
that pure simplicity of fear had been the moving
principle in this case, I called on his worship,
dined with him, and held the " sinister motives"
so cheap, to say nothing of the " principles ini-
mical to the peace and quiet which the inha-
bitants of this province so happily enjoy," that
we parted very good friends ; the magistrate
having reported to me some acts of a late governor,
not very creditable.
By giving place to these incidents, I do not
merely apologize for insufficiency of local facts;
but I hope they distinguish features growing out
of the political circumstances of Upper Canada
not unworthy of notice. It never can be right
to hide even weakness, if by exposure the cause
can be removed, especially if that cause originates
in superstition or the delusions of power.
TOWNSHIP REPORT. 569
The savage who, 40 years ago, was sole master
of Upper Canada, would never have suspected evil
had I offered to report for him, in his own words,
an account of his country to the great father in
England, or said that I would bear home for him a
string of wampoom, as a token of friendship. The
unsophisticated Indian harboured no unworthy
jealousy, no despicable dread of superior power:
to man he was generous-minded, and to God his
regards were so pure that he would not even pray
to him. He prayed to the evil spirit to do him
no harm. The good spirit, he said, from his very
nature, never would. His religion was certainly
of the simplest kind ; but he possessed what doc-
tors of more complicated systems are often without.
He was sincere and charitable.
When the inhabitants of Niagara District had
resolved to subscribe and send home a petition for
inquiry, I was called upon to produce a sketch of
a petition to the Prince Regent, and, off hand,
wrote down the general impressions which expe-
rience and conversation had made upon my mind.
The manuscript was submitted to a meeting of 16
respectable persons, among whom there were six
magistrates. They desired that I should retire
while they critically examined my sketch, and
they finally resolved that every thing advanced
could bear investigation, and stand the test of
proof. They ordered the sketch to be printed
along with other documents and declarations, in a
pamphlet, and, at great expence, dispatched some
thousand copies of this pamphlet into the various
570 EASTERN DISTRICT.
quarters of the province, to be sold out of stores,
so that their fellow subjects might have a fair op-
portunity to judge of their principles and proceed-
ings ; and so, if they chose, join them for the
public good.
By the time that this pamphlet was lodged in
the stores of the Eastern District, intelligence had
been dispatched from the capital, that I was to be
prosecuted as the writer of the sketch petition.
This gave such vigour to the Augusta parson, and
the host of Cornwall, that " the peace and quiet
which the province so happily enjoyed" was quite
forgotten. They purchased up the pamphlets out
of the stores ; and the 4th of June being at hand,
when it was customary for the militia to muster,
and shew themselves, written orations were pre-
pared to denounce me as the worst of human
beings, while bonfires were kindled ready to
receive the forlorn pamphlets; and thus, to be
sure, they were consumed, the priest-ridden fa-
natics yelling forth their triumph in the midst of
the people, who were thus effectually kept in ig-
norance of what was proposed by their fellow sub-
jects of Niagara District. Could there possibly be
any thing more characteristic of our experience of
priestly influence during the dark ages? Contemp-
tible as the real strength was at the bottom of this
opposition, it was sufficient for its end, and the
mischief done by preventing unanimity in a truly
virtuous cause, is not to be estimated. Had a
commission of inquiry come home from Canada
two years ago, unspeakable good might have ac-
crued, as well to this country as to that.
3
TOWNSHIP REPORT. 571
Although this is not the place for political docu-
ments, I cannot think but I may appropriately
display, before we get out of the Eastern District,
the article which was so nefariously stolen from
the perusal of its inhabitants ; an article which
flowed from the very purest vein of loyalty and
patriotism.
Draught of an Address proposed for presentation to
the Prince Regent — submitted to the consideration
of the people of Upper Canada, for animadver-
sion and amendment.
To His ROYAL HIGHNESS, GEORGE, PRINCE OF
WALES, REGENT OF THE UNITED KINGDOM OF GREAT
BRITAIN AND IRELAND, &c. &c. &c.
The Humble Address of Inhabitants of Upper Canada.
May it please your Royal Highness,
THE subjects of your Royal Father, dwelling in Upper
Canada, should need no words to give assurance of their
loyalty, if the whole truth had reached the throne of their
Sovereign. His loving subjects have reason to believe that
the truth has not been told.
During three years of war, Upper Canada was exposed
to the ravages of a powerful and inveterate foe. The
Government of the United Slates had been long concerting
the invasion of this Province : hostile preparations against
it, had been long masked under other designs : and at last
the accumulated torrent of violence burst on the defenceless
572 EASTERN DISTRICT.
children of the British Empire. Nor were they assailed by
the weapons of war alone. An insidious Proclamation
preceded the host of the enemy — forgetful of honour — re-
gardless of humanity; and, daring to seduce the subjects
of Britain from their true allegiance. The subjects of
Britain remained dauntless and firm. It was not for pro-
perty that they rose against the Invader: the Invader would
have spared to them their property. They flew to arms in
defence of the Rights arid Sovereignty of Britain. Twice
had the American standard been planted in Upper Canada,
while yet but a handful of British troops aided the native
battalions of the Province ; — twice did these raw battalions
wave the laurel of victory over the prostrate Intruders on
their soil. The second year of war saw Canada contending
with yet little assistance from the parent state: — the second
year of war saw her sons confirmed in their virtue, and still
more determined to resist. Wives and children had fled
from their homes, the face of the country was laid waste,
and the fire of revenge was sent forth to consummate dis-
tress and misery; — still was the spirit of the people unex-
tingnished — still did it burn with patriotism and loyalty.
By the third year, every risk of conquest was at an end ;
for now the British aids poured into the Provinces; and
peace was proclaimed, when war was no longer to be
feared.
It is now more than three years since there was an end of
war; but, strange to say, these years of peace have mani-
fested no appearance of affection or care from the mother
country to the Canadas. Commercial treaties have been
made, altogether neglectful of British interests, here :
Government transactions, which used to give spirit to trade
and industry, are at a stand : troops are withdrawn : fortifi-
cations are suffered to go to ruin ; and rumours are abroad
too shocking to be repeated in the Royal ear.
May it please your Royal Highness to listen calmly to
TOWNSHIP REPORT. 573
the complaints and grievances of the people of Upper Ca-
nada, who are fully assured that your Royal Highness has
been kept ignorant of most important truths, — who are well
assured of the generous dispositions of your* Royal heart;
and of your desire that British subjects, should, every where,
share equally, your paternal regard and affection.
It was matter of much provocation to the people of this
Province, to see, even during the war, which afforded such
striking proofs of their loyalty and valour, reports sent
home, highly rating the merit of regular troops, while the
tribute, due to Canadian levies, was unfairly let down.
Nay the principles of the most loyal subjects here, were
often stigmatized by British Officers, ignorant of human
character, and still more so of circumstances which affect
it, in this part of the world. It was not so with the immor-
tal Brock. He justly appreciated Canadian worth ; and his
memory will happily long cherish, in the minds of the Cana-
dian people, a due regard for the genuine spirit of a Bri-
tish soldier, at once generous and brave.
The loyal Inhabitants of Upper Canada would disdain to
notice the misrepresentations of individuals, so contrary to
notorious truth, if these had not obviously conspired, with
other causes, to lessen the regard, which should subsist
between British subjects, here and at home — to influence
the conduct of ministers towards the general interest of the
Provinces.
The loyal subjects of his Majesty in Upper Canada,
suffered grievously during the war, in their property, and
many were bereft of their all. A solemn investigation, on
this subject, took place : the claims of sufferers were authen-
ticated; and there was every reason to expect that recom-
pence would immediately follow; yet nothing has followed,
but delay and insult. — Surely, if there is, among mankind,
a single principle of justice, this is one, that the individuals
of a nation ought not, partially, to bear the weight of public
574 EASTERN DISTRICT.
calamity,— surely, individuals who have exposed their lives
for government, should not be disgusted, with finding go-
vernment regardless of those very principles, which it is in-
tended to sustain. The people of this Province are well
aware, that their fellow subjects, at home, are pressed hard
with taxation ; and far is it from their wish that relief should
be afforded from thence. Canada contains, within itself,
ample means of exonerating government from the clahns of
sufferers by war ; and it is within the fiat of your Royal
Highness to remove, by a single breath, the evil now so
justly complained of. Millions of acres of fertile land lie
here, at the disposal of your Royal Highness, upon the
credit of which, put under proper management, not only
the fair claims of loyal sufferers could be instantly advanced;
but vast sums could be raised for the improvement of the
Provinces, and the increase of revenue to Britain.
Another grievance, manifesting the neglect of govern-
ment to the concerns of Upper Canada, is equally notorious;
and must be still more abhorrent to the generous feelings of
your Royal Highness.
The young men of this Province, who were armed in its
defence, had, for their spirited conduct, the promise of their
commanders, that land would be granted them as a reward
for their services, as soon as war was terminated; and after
this promise was universally confided io, the Parliament of
Upper Canada passed an extraordinary law, in the face of
established British principles, that the militia should pass
beyond the frontier. With these promises, and in obedience
to this law, the militia passed beyond the frontier with ala-
crity : yet, since the peace, the greater part of them have been
denied the pledge of their extraordinary services, and the
land is unjustly withheld.
Such ingratitude — such dishonour — such errors in policy,
your Royal Highness may be well assured, could not exist,
without extraordinary influences ; and were your Royal High-
TOWNSHIP REPORT. 675
ness sufficiently informed as to these, and of the true state of
Upper Canada, we flatter ourselves, most important changes
would speedily take place, as well for the glory of the throne,
as for the benefit of its subjects.
Permit the loyal subjects of his Majesty merely to say as
much, at the present time, OB this subject, as may induce
your Royal Highness to order inquiry to be made.
The lands of the Crown in Upper Canada, are of immense
extent, not only stretching far and wide into the wilderness,
but scattered over the province, and intermixed with private
property, already cultivated. The disposal of this land is
left to Ministers at home, who are palpably ignorant of exist"
ing circumstances ; and to a council of men resident in the
province, who, it is believed, have long converted the trust
reposed in them to purposes of selfishness. The scandalous
abuses, in this department, came some years ago to such a
pitch of monstrous magnitude, that the home Ministers
wisely imposed restrictions on the Land Council of Upper
Canada. These, however, have by no means removed the
evil ; and a system of patronage and favouritism, in the
disposal of the Crown lands, still exists, altogether destruc-
tive of moral rectitude, and virtuous feeling, in the manage-
ment of public affairs. Corruption, indeed, has reached
such a height in this Province, that it is thought no other
part of the British empire witnesses the like; and it is vain
to look for improvement till a radical change is effected. It
matters not what characters Jill situations of public trust at
present: — all sink beneath the dignity of men — become
vitiated and weak, as soon as they are placed within ihe
vortex of destruction. Confusion on confusion has grown
out of this unhappy system; and the very lands of the
Crown, the giving away of which has created such mischief
and iniquity , have ultimately come to little value from abuse.
The poor subjects of his Majesty, driven from home by
distress, to whom portions of land are granted, can nowjlnd
576 EASTERN DISTRICT.
in the grant no benefit ; and loyalists of the United Empire
— the descendants of those who sacrificed their all in America,
in behalf of British rule — men whose names were ordered
on record for their virtuous adherence to your Royal Fa-
ther,— the descendants of these men find, now, no favour in
their destined rewards : nay, these rewards, when granted,
have, in many, cases, been rendered worse than nothing / for
the legal rights in the enjoyment of them have been held at
nought: their land has been rendered unsaleable, and, in
some cases, only a source of distraction and care.
Under this si/stem of internal management, and weakened
from other evil influences, Upper Canada now pines in com-
parative decay/ : discontent and poverty are experienced in a
land supremely blessed with the gifts of nature: dread of
arbitrary power wars, here, against the free exercise of rea-
son and manly sentiment : laws have been set aside : legis-
lators have come into derision; and, contempt from the
mother country seems fast gathering strength to disunite the
people of Canada from their friends at home.
The immediate interference of your Royal Highness might
do much to check existing eVils ; and might wholly remove
those which spring from the system of patronage and fa-
vouritism, in the land-granting department. Other evils,
however, greatly retard the prosperity of Upper Canada-
evils which have their root in the original constitution of the
Province, and these can only be removed by the interference
of the British Parliament, now most imperiously required.
Deeply penetrated with these sentiments, and most seriously
inclined to have such needful changes speedily effected, the
loyal subjects of Britain, dwelling in Upper Canada, now
take the extraordinary step of sending home Commissioners
to bear this to the throne, and humbiy entreat your Royal
Highness to give ear to the details which it will be in their
power to relate : above all, that your Royal Highness would,
immediately, send out to this Province a COMMISSION, con-
TOWNSHIP REPORT. 577
sis ting of discreet and wise men — men of business and talent,
who shall be above every influence here ; and who may be
instructed to make inquiry into all the sources of evil.
The part printed above in italics was that for
which 1 was first tried, and honourably acquitted
in Upper Canada.
What semblance has the general spirit of the
sketch to any thing like sedition ? What word in
it bears affinity to libel ? What honest pretext
could be found for arresting me for this publication,
known to have been approved of, printed, and cir-
culated by the authority of six magistrates of the
province, and others equally respectable ? The
honest pretext was not, and is not to be found ;
but the object was to harass me, to frighten the
people of Upper Canada, and distract their attention
from the main object of inquiry into the system of
managing public affairs — the selfish, thriftless,
ruinous conduct of a weak and wicked ministry.
The first prompter to the prosecution was, I
have no doubt, William Dickson, whose spite at
last resorted to the base, invidious, and cruel mea-
sure of imprisonment and banishment, without
trial for crime ; and it was very curious that this
man, just before, had caused to be published a
pamphlet in the United States, containing a libel
against a respectable private character, of so gross
and palpable a description, that the printer was pro-
secuted and ruined by the fine, which Dickson had
only refunded in a small part, prior to my leaving
the country. But this was not all; I had it from
p v
578 EASTERN DISTRICT.
the authority of Dickson's brother, that the York
parson was the writer of the pamphlet in question.
Thus, the worst kind of libellers, — men who could
descend to the base practice of libelling individual
private character, stirred up persecution against
me for the above sketch, which points at no one,
reflects only upon the general mismanagement of
affairs, and was neither printed nor published by me
directly; which, indeed, appeared in many British
newspapers without ever suggesting the thought
of seditious libel. I do ask the reader to reflect on
the state of that country where such a legislative
councillor, and such a reverend executive coun-
cillor can have such sway, and such a triumph
over a British subject as was ultimately gained over
me. Not only for the sake of Upper Canada, but
for the sake of British honour — -for the sake of
truth and humanity, it is to be hoped that such
triumph will not be permanent, nor such con-
duct be passed over without due scrutiny and
censure.
When arrested, as writer of the above sketch,
I was impressed with a belief that an ex-officio
process was to brazen out the adventure of prose-
cution ; and it will astonish readers of this coun-
try, how a bill of indictment could be found for
such a publication, compared to which, as a ge-
neral censure on ministers, the daily effusions of
the London press are ten times more pointed
and severe; but the fact is, that grand-jurymen
of Upper Canada, are, almost to a man, creatures of
the governor, — magistrates, militia officers, or ex-
1
TOWNSHIP REPORT. 579
pectants of favour, who would at once be marked,
were they to think for themselves. They would, I
do believe, if stupified with political influence, find
a true bill against a cow for eating her master's
grass. The finding which authorized my last
mock-trial, gives sufficient proof of this. The
petty-jury were less to blame, as they had only the
simple fact to attest ; and it is probable that my
wretched condition and incoherent discourse drew
off attention, as well from the palpable miscon-
struction of the Judge, as from some gross imperti-
nencies of the Attorney-general, who was not con-
tented with explaining the law, and proving the
fact, of my having refused to leave the province;
but laboured to stir up prejudices against me, by
examining a witness as to my conduct, and ex-
claiming against some passages in the above sketch
petition, as " infamous libels;" nay, he put it to
the witness, to say if the words " all sink beneath
the dignity of men — become vitiated and weak as
soon as they are placed within the vortex of de-
struction," did not libel him, the Attorney-general.
Vitiated and weak indeed !
p p 2
580 OTTAWA DISTRICT.
OTTAWA DISTRICT.
THIS district, recently formed out of part of
the Eastern District, had no communication by
land with the other parts of the province, till 1816,
when some Scotch emigrants were located in the
upper part of Lancaster, and assisted in opening
roads. At great hazard I crossed to it through
the new settlements, the first week of June, 1818,
on horseback, and spent a couple of days there.
The only settlements were in Hawkesbury and
Longeuil; and I do not suppose the whole popu-
lation could amount to more than 1,500 ; probably
not so many. Much of the landed property being
held by merchants in Montreal, &c., the farmers
in Hawkesbury were so kept at arm's length by
untaxed lots that they could do little in union
for public good or their own relief. In Longeuil,
a party of people from the United States were
settled more compactly, and shewed signs of vi-
gorous improvement. In passing northward from
Lancaster, the Ottawa river presents itself in
grand style ; and the woods of the Lower Province
rising from its opposite bank, upon hills, varying
in their aspect, and some of them steep and lofty,
produce an effect very agreeable to him who has
long been accustomed to the greater tameness of
Upper Canada. On an island in Ottawa river,
opposite the higher part of Hawkesbury township,
are erected saw mills of the best construction, and
OTTAWA DISTRICT. 581
upon a scale superior to any other in the province.
They were first owned by Mr. Mears, of Hawkes-
bury; but are now the property of Mr. Hamilton,
from Ireland ; and the business seemed to be car-
ried on by him with great spirit ; about fourscore
people being employed in the works on the island.
Nothing can be better situated than these mills,
either as it respects the command of water, as a
moving power for machinery, or as a conductor of
the log timber to the mills. The Ottawa river, a
little way above the island, expands into a noble
sheet of navigable water, extending as far as the
eye can reach : at and below the island, for eight
or nine miles, it is rapid. In my sketch of the
practicable water-courses, inserted upon the large
map attached to this volume, I have introduced a
canal for getting over this rapid, and the accom-
plishment of this upon a proper scale, is an object
of high importance both for public good, and the
benefit of those who possess lands to the west and
north. The Ottawa, indeed, for nearly two
hundred miles, could be made navigable for large
steam boats, with little else than locks, were this,
one of the most considerable rapids, got over; and
into it flow the rivers Petite Nation, Rideau,
Mississippi, and others, all capable of being navi-
gated with an expenditure, quite moderate, con-
sidered in proportion to the vast commerce which
the naturally fertile regions on their banks, well
cultivated, would surely generate.
There is, at the extremity of that part of Ottawa
river, called the lake of the Two Mountains, a
582 OTTAWA DISTRICT.
considerable current, but not such as to impede
navigation; and when I left Canada, it was said
that a small steam boat was established, to ply
regularly from La Chine, near Montreal, to the
lower part of Hawkesbury township. How glo-
rious might be the day, and that day may be
within twenty years from the present time, when,
by the union of British capital and Canadian
capability, steam boats of .500 tons burden, could
take their departure from Quebec and Montreal,
pass up the St. Lawrence or Ottawa into lakes
Superior and Michigan ; excite industry and ho-
nest ambition by the display of British manufac-
tures, and return loaded with the produce of the
distant and wide-spreading shores!
As I have no regular report from Ottawa dis-
trict, and only one from that which lays alongside
of it, I shall here introduce accounts of some
seigniories and townships on the opposite side
of Ottawa river, and otherwise on or near the
boundary of Upper Canada, from Bouchette's
Geographical Description of Lower Canada.
These seigniories and townships appear in my
map, and an account of their soil, state of settle-
ment, tenure, &c. may be of use to him who
thinks of emigrating to the provinces. I shall
make no invidious comparison between Upper
and Lower Canada ; but this may be said for the
latter, that its proximity to market, considerably
compensates for severity of climate; and all within
the compass of my map may be occupied by
OTTAWA DISTRICT. 583
British emigrants, without any risk of their early
habits unfitting them to contend with that severity.
The fact is, that the winter cold of Canada greatly
exceeds that of Britain, looking to the range of the
thermometer*, yet it is much less painful to the
feelings than that which proceeds from our moister
atmosphere; and it is exceedingly healthy and
invigorating Indeed I would not wish to dictate
as to the emigrant's choice of situation any where
in the country between Montreal and Sandwich.
I ought, of course, to have had Mr. Bouchette's
leave for extracting so largely as is done below;
but this at present being impossible, I shall trust to
his pardon. My object is to make his country
known; and the following specimens of his publi-
cation may attract readers to his work, but cannot
injure its sale. His geographical descriptions of
Lower Canada are no doubt correct, from his hav-
ing had the best means of information, in his capa-
city of Surveyor General of that province. Should
a second edition of his book appear, the NOTES on
Upper Canada should be revised.
* The mercury in the thermometer has been known to fall to
30° below Zero, at Quebec. One day, while I was in Upper
Canada, it fell to 15° below Zero, near Queenston.
N.B. In perusing the following extracts, the reader should be
aware that the word mountain is used in the French sense, which
makes a hill, of a few hundred feet high, a mountain. That near
Montreal, which, according to Mr. Bouchette is 550 feet high, is
the most conspicuous, and uniformly termed Montreal Mountain.
584 LOWER CANADA.
LOWER CANADA
is divided into the districts of Montreal, Three Rivers,
Quebec, and Gaspe, which, by proclamation of the govern-
ment, dated May 7, 1792, were subdivided into the follow-
ing twenty-one counties, viz. Bedford, Buckingham, Corn-
wallis, Devon, Dorchester, Effingham, Gaspe, Hampshire.
Hertford, Huntingdon, Kent, Leinster, Montreal, St.
Maurice, Northumberland, Orleans, Quebec, Richelieu,
Surrey, Warwick, and York. The minor divisions are,
1st, The seigniories, or the original grants of the French
government under the feudal system; these are again
partitioned out into parishes, whose extents were exactly
defined by a regulation made in September, 1721, by
Messrs. De Vaudreuil and Bigon, assisted by the Bishop
of Quebec, and confirmed by an " Arret du Conseil
Superieur" of the 3d of May, 1722. These limits, how-
ever, were not strictly adhered to, for as the population
increased, and settlements became numerous and exten-
sive, it was found expedient to build many new churches,
that the means and accommodations for religious worship
might keep pace with the numerical increase of the com-
municants ; for the support of these, portions of ancient
parishes have, from time to time, been constituted into
new ones. 2d. The townships, or grants of land made by
the English government since the year 1796, in free and
common soccage.
SEIGNIORIES.
NEW LONGEUIL (the seigniory of) — the most westerly
of all the Lower Province, on the north side of the river
St. Lawrence, is in the county of York, and runs along the
shore of lake St. Francis, two leagues in front, as far as
SEIGNIORIES. 585
the boundary-line of Upper Canada, which forms its south-
west limit, by three leagues in depth; on the north, a
location of 1000 acres to the late Lieutenant-Colonel De
Longeuil separates it from the township of Newton;
and on the north-east it is bounded by the seigniory of
Soulange. On the 21st April, 1734, it was granted to
Sieur Joseph Lemoine, Chevalier de Longeuil, and is now
the property of Saveuse de Beaujeu, Esq. This tract of
land lies rather low ; on the north-east side part of a great
swamp spreads over a large space, which is covered with
cedar, spruce fir, and hemlock trees, the sure indicatives
of such a soil ; but which requires only the operation of
draining to be converted into good and profitable land. To
the south-west the ground rises much above the level of
the opposite side, and abounds with many spots suitable to
the production of grain of all sorts, as well as favourable to
the cultivation both of hemp and flax, and every other re-
quisite purpose of farming. The woods afford abundance
of fine trees, but beech and maple most predominate ; there
is, however, great plenty of all the other useful sorts, either
for timber or fuel. The rivers Delisle and Baudet water
it very commodiously: the first crosses it diagonally from
Upper Canada, where it has its source, into the seigniory
of Soulange; and the latter at its south-west angle, from
the upper part of the township of Lancaster to Pointe au
Baudet : neither of them are navigable, though on the lat-
ter, whose banks are much the highest, and the current
strongest, large quantities of staves and other timber felled
in its vicinity, are floated down to the Saint Lawrence in
the spring, when the stream is swelled by the melted snow
and ice ; they both turn some good grist and saw mills.
The front of the seigniory, along the St. Lawrence, between
Ance au Bateaux and Pointe au Baudet, is very low, and
overflowed so frequently as to make it impracticable to
maintain a road fit to keep up a communication through
0&6 JLOWER CANADA.
this distance; but in winter, the route upon the ice along
this part, and on the north side of the lake into Upper
Canada, is preferred, as being shorter than the road lead-
ing by the side of the river Delisle : this road is, however,
called the principal one between the two provinces, but it
will require much amendment to render it so convenient
as it ought to be for the increasing intercourse between
these parts. The greatest part of the concessions, in New
Longeuil, are about Ance an Bateaux and Pointe au
Baudet, on each side of the river Delisle, and still further
to the rear in the Cotes St. George and St. Andre, where
a number of Scotch families are settled, whose industry has
so far benefited their lands, that they are now among the
best parts of the seigniory, although the other conceded lots
are in a very fair state of agricultural improvement. The
male inhabitants of this and three or four other seigniories
in this part of the district are mostly voyageurs, a name given
to the persons employed in the north-west fur trade, whose
wandering mode of life, toilsome and laborious as it is in
the extreme, has superior charms for them than the more
regular and profitable pursuits of husbandry. Such a dis-
inclination to yield to the quiet sameness of a fixed resi-
dence is seriously inimical to the progress of cultivation on
tracks that are but sparingly peopled ; and from such a
cause, neither this nor the adjoining grants, that contain
many men who follow this employment, are in so flourish-
ing a state as it is highly presumable they would be, from
their great fertility, and numerous natural advantages, were
all their inhabitants of a more domesticated disposition.
SoULANGE stretches four leagues. on the north bank of
the Saint Lawrence, from that of New Longeuil to the
Pointe des Cascades: a small part of the township of
Newton, and the seigniory of Rigaud, bound it on the
south-west, as does the seigniory of Vaudreuil on the north ;
SEIGNIORIES. 587
with the latter it occupies the whole of the tongue of land
that is formed by the confluence of the Ottawa, and the
Saint Lawrence, at the upper extremity of lake Saint
Louis; it was granted October 12th, 170*2, to the Chevalier
de Soulange, and is now the property of Saveuse de Beau-
jeu, Esq. The general character of the soil through the
whole of this grant is good, and so advantageously varied
as to be fit for all the productions natural to the country.
In the south- west corner the same extensive swamp that
runs into New Longeuil spreads over a considerable space:
elm, ash, oak, beech, and a great variety of other trees,
produce fine timber and wood, for all purposes, in abun-
dance. The rivers a la Graisse, Rouge, and Delisle con-
veniently intersect and water it with their streams ; the last
is the largest, though no use can at present be made of it
for conveyance ; it might, however, become navigable for
boats to the distance of several miles, merely by clearing its
bed from the trunks of trees, that, with gradual decay, have
for ages continued to fall into and obstruct it. The whole
extent of this property, in front of the Saint Lawrence, is
very thickly settled, and were the inhabitants as strongly
attached to husbandry as they are to the occupation of
voyageurs, it might be improved into a most excellent and
productive track ; but even now it is far above mediocrity.
At five miles from Pointe des Cascades is the pleasant vil-
lage of the Cedars, consisting of about forty houses, and a
well-built church : being the point of rendezvous for all
boats passing up or down the river, and having an estab-
lished ferry to the opposite seigniory of Beauharnois, it is
a place of great resort both for travellers and traders.
There is but one grist-mill within the seigniory, which is
situated on a point of land about a mile and a half below
the village, and well known by the name of Longeuil's
mill. A short distance from the Pointe des Cascades lies
the Isle des Cascades, that, with two or three smaller ones,
588 LOWER CANADA.
break the current of the river at its entrance into lake
Saint Louis. A sudden declivity in its bed, obstructed by
rocks in some places, and scooped into cavities in others,
produces the most singular commotion, called the Cascades ;
it is an extraordinary agitation of the waters precipitated
with great velocity between the islands, which being re-
pelled by the rocks and hollows underneath, the waves are
thrown up in spherical figures much above the surface, and
driven with the utmost violence back again upon the cur-
rent, exhibiting nearly the same effect as would be pro-
duced by the most furious tempest. To avoid the danger
of passing this place, a canal, usually called the military
canal, has been constructed across the point of land, and
through which all boats now make their way to the locks
at Le Buisson ; it is 500 yards in length, and furnished
with the necessary locks ; on each side a space of ground
100 feet deep has been relinquished by the proprietors of
Soulange and Vaudreuil, and is reserved for public pur-
poses ; at the entrance to the canal, from the lake St.
Louis, is a guard-house, where a small party of military is
always stationed. At a place near Longeuil's mill, the
bateaux going up the St. Lawrence are unloaded, and
their freights transported in carts to the village, in order
that they may be towed up light through the Grand Batture,
or Rapide du Coteau des Cedres. On the opposite shore
is the Rapid de Bouleau, deeper, but not less difficult to
pass ; the combined efforts of these two make this the most
intricate and hazardous place that is met with between
Montreal and Lake Ontario. In a military view it is one
of the most important spots that can be chosen, if it should
ever unfortunately be again necessary to adopt defensive
measures, as works thrown up on the projecting points of
each side would completely frustrate any attempt to bring
down by water a force sufficient to undertake offensive
operations against Montreal. At Coteau du Lac, just
SEIGNIORIES. 589
above river Delisle, boats again enter locks to avoid a
very strong rapid, between Prison Island, and the point
abreast of it, where a duty is collected upon wines, spirits,
and many other articles that are carried by them into
Upper Canada. This place has been always esteemed a
military post of some consequence ; works are here erect-
ed, and kept in good repair, that command the passage on
the north-side of the river ; and was another thrown up on
Prison Island, it would render the pass so difficult as to
make it very improbable that any enemy, however enter-
prising, would run the hazard of it, or even venture through
the outer channel between Prison Island and Grande Isle.
The stream is interrupted hereabouts by several islands.
between which it rushes with great impetuosity, and is so
much agitated that boats and rafts encounter great incon-
venience in descending ; to go down in safety they must
keep close under the shores of Prison Island. At two
miles from Coteau du Lac is M'Donell's tavern, a very
good house for the accommodation of travellers towards
the upper province, and conveniently situated for that pur-
pose. The main road, those between the concessions, and
three good bridges over the rivers, are all kept in excellent
repair throughout this seigniory.
VAUDREUIL is very eligibly situated on the south side
of the Ottawa river (or rather that expansion of it called
the Lac des deux Montagnes), in the county of York. It
begins at Pointe des Cascades, and runs along the river as
far as Rigaud, comprising one half of the large tongue of
land mentioned in the preceding article : it was granted on
the 23d October, 1702, to Philippe de Rigaud, Marquis de
Vaudreuil, and now the property of the Honourable
M. E. G. A. Chartier de Lotbiniere. This seigniory is in
a very flourishing state; two-thirds of it is conceded in lots
of three acres in front by twenty, and from that to thirty in
590 I.OWER CANADA.
depth, forming six different ranges, parallel to the Ottawa:
the whole number of lots is 377, and of these 290 are actually
under excellent cultivation. The soil is good nearly through-
out, and, in many places, of the best quality, producing
grain and all the usual crops of the country. Three small
rivers water it, that in spring are navigable for boats, but
after the freshes have subsided, even small canoes cannot
work upon them. Oak, elm, ash, and beech, of a superior
quality, are found, besides many other species of woods fit
for all purposes. On the bank of the river, about six miles
from the Pointe des Cascades, is a pleasant little village,
containing from 20 to 25 houses, well built of wood, sur-
rounding the church and parsonage-house, which are both
of stone. The seignorial, or manor-house, is situated on a
well chosen spot, near a small rapid, about a mile and a
half from the church ; surrounded by some groves of elm,
plane, and linden trees, which, with avenues and other
plantations in the English style, afford many very pleasing
prospects ; at a little distance from the house are a grist-
mill and a wind-mill, which serve the whole community. The
major part of the men of this seigniory are voyageurs like their
neighbours, yet agriculture does not languish, nor is there
a want of artisans in any of the useful trades : there are
also five manufactories of pot and pearl ash. The ferry-
boats from St. Anne on the island of Montreal, which is
the general route to Upper Canada, land their passengers
on this seigniory, near the manor-house; and from the
number of travellers continually passing much interest and
variety is conferred upon the neighbourhood. Besides the
main road, several others pass through Vaudreuil, and are
all kept in very good repair, as well as the bridges. From
Point Cavagnal to the house there are several small
islands, all of which are appendages to the original grant.
Two arriere fiefs, within the seigniory, are both in pos-
session of M. de Lotbiniere.
SEIGNIORIES, a 591
RIGAUD lies on the south side of the Ottawa, in the
county of York, and has for its boundaries Vaudreuil on
the east, the province line of Upper Canada on the west,
and the township of Newton in the rear; its dimensions
are three leagues in front by three in depth, and was grant-
ed on the 29th October, 1732, to Messrs, de Vaudreuil
and Rigaud; the present proprietor is the Honourable
M. E. G. A. Chartier de Lotbiniere. A very fertile soil
runs through the whole of this grant, and where cultivated,
is found well adapted to grain and pulse of all sorts. The
Rivers a la Graisse and Raquette run through it ; the first,
passing about the middle of the seigniory , is at all times
navigable from the Ottawa up to the fall, and greatly con-
tributes to the advantage of the settlers on each side of it;
the other, in the eastern part, is not navigable. Very good
elm, ash, and some oak, are found among the timber trees,
and some pines of a fine growth are interspersed through
the woods. From the south-east bank of River a la Graisse,
two mountains, of great height, penetrate some miles into
the interior, and greatly encroach upon the quantity of
cultivable land ; however, about one half of this tract is
conceded in 280 lots of three acres by 20 or 25, and tole-
rably well improved ; these concessions are situated on
each side of River a la Graisse, where they are the most
numerous, in Nouvelle Lotbiniere, and in the Cote Ste.
Madelaine ; near the fall are a grist-mill and a saw-mill,
and a little below, at the end of the road leading to Nou-
velle Lotbiniere, is a spacious parsonage-house, built of
stone, where, on the second floor, divine service is per-
formed until a church can be erected, which is already
begun, as well as a village surrounding it. The men of
this seigniory are chiefly voyageurs, active, resolute, and
enterprising; the attention of those who follow that em-
ployment being diverted from the cares of husbandry,
leaves but a comparatively small number to become
$92 JLOWER CANADA.
farmers ; but those who do undertake it carry it 011 with
much zeal and commensurate success.
ISLE PERROT lies off the south-west end of the island
of Montreal. The length of the island is seven miles, or a
little more, and nearly three in breadth, at its widest part :
of 143 concessions, rather more than one half are settled
upon, and tolerably well cultivated ; the soil is of a light
candy nature generally, but where this is not the case it is
an uneven surface of rock. The wood is not entirely
cleared from it yet ; of what remains, beech and maple
constitute the chief part. The houses of the inhabitants
are scattered over the island near the different roads, but
no village upon it ; there is one church, and only one
wind-mill.
The beautiful island of MONTREAL forms the seigniory of
the same name, and also the county of Montreal. The
Riviere des Prairies on the north-west side separates it
from Isle Jesus. The greatest part of it was granted in
1040 to Messrs. Cherrier and Le Royer ; but whether dis-
posed of by them, or forfeited to the crown, does not appear
from any official record that has been preserved : it is at
present wholly the property of the seminary of St. Sulpice,
at Montreal. As early as the year 1657, a large part of
this, even at that period valuable property, was cleared
and settled, under the direction of the Abbe Quotas, who
had arrived from France with authority from the seminary
for that and other purposes. The island is divided into
the following nine parishes, St. Ann, St. Genevieve, Point
Claire, La Chine, Sault au Recollet, St. Laurent, Riviere
des Prairies, Pointe-au-Tremble, and Longue Pointe.
There are altogether 1376 concessions, formed into ranges,
or as they are termed cotes. With the exception of the
mountain, the ridge of the Coteau St. Pierre, and one or
SEIGNIORIES. 593
two smaller ones of no great elevation, the island exhibits
a level surface, watered by several little rivers and rivulets.
These streams turn numerous grist and saw-mills in the
interior, while many more around the island are worked by
the great rivers. From the city of Montreal to the east-
ward the shores are from 15 to 20 feet above the level of
the St. Lawrence ; but in the opposite direction, towards
La Chine, they are low : between the Coteau St. Pierre
and the river the land is so flat, and particularly near the
little lake St. Pierre so marshy, as to induce a conjecture
that it was once covered by water. Over this place it is
intended to cut a canal, by which a direct communication
between the city and La Chine will be formed, and the
difficult passage of the rapid of St. Louis avoided : for the
commencement of this work the sum of 25,0001. has been
recently voted by the provincial parliament. The soil of
the whole island, if a few insignificant tracks be overlooked,
can scarcely be excelled in any country, and is highly pro-
ductive in grain of every species, vegetables, and fruits of
various kinds ; consequently there is hardly any part of it
but what is in the most flourishing state of cultivation, and
may justly claim the pre-eminence over any of Lower
Canada. Several roads running from north-east to south-
west, nearly parallel to each other, are crossed by others at
convenient distances, so as to form a complete and easy
communication in every direction. Within a few years a
good turnpike-road has been made from Montreal, almost
in a straight line, to the village of La Chine, a distance of
seven miles, by which the constant intercourse between
these places is much easier than it was heretofore : by this
route all the commodities intended for Upper Canada are
conveyed to the place of embarkation. Within this space
there is a great variety, and some very romantic prospects :
a mile or two from the town, near the tanneries, the road
ascends a steepish hill, and continues along a high ridge
QQ
594 LOWER CANADA.
for more than three miles, commanding a beautiful view
over the cultivated fields below, the rapid of St. Louis, the
islands in the Sf. Lawrence, and the varied woodland sce-
nery on the opposite shore ; descending from the height,
it passes over a flat country until it reaches La Chine. This
road was formerly so bad, winding, and interrupted by
huge masses of rock, that it was nearly a day's journey for
the loaded carts to go from one place to the other. Stores
and other articles, intended for the king's warehouses, a
little beyond the rapid, are sent by another road, which
runs by the river side.
La Chine is a place of greater importance than any other
village on the island, being the centre of all the commerce
between the upper and lower provinces, and the north-west
country also: whatever merchandise is sent upwards is
brought hither by land carriage from Montreal, and all
the imports are here landed. It consists of only about 20
dwelling-houses, but a great number of store-houses be-
longing to the merchants, besides the warehouses of the
Indian department. A dry dock of great extent, for lay-
ing up the bateaux, forms a valuable part of the premises
of Mr. Grant. During the months between May and
November, bateaux to and from Kingston, and various
parts of Upper Canada, are continually arriving and de-
parting, which always occasions a great deal of activity and
bustle of business. The nature of these craft may be very
shortly described : they are flat-bottomed ; from 35 to 40
feet in length, terminating in a point at each extremity,
with about six feet of beam in the centre ; the usual freight
is four, or four and a half tons ; they are worked by oars, a
mast and sail, drag-ropes for towing, and long poles for
setting them through the strong currents or rapids ;
four men manage them in summer, but in the fall of the
year another is always added, one of whom acts as a guide.
In the bateaux of the merchants the cargoes upwards are
SEIGNIORIES. 595
a general assortment of merchandise, for which they bring
down flour, wheat, salt provisions, pot and pearl-ashes, and
peltries. The time employed in the voyage to Kingston is
from ten to twelve days: but the return does not take more
than three or four. They usually depart in brigades of
from four to fifteen boats, in order that their crews may be
able to afford mutual assistance in ascending the rapids :
each brigade is under the direction of one man, who is
called the conductor. From La Chine also the canoes em-
ployed by the north-west company in the fur trade take
their departure. Of all the numerous contrivances for
transporting heavy burthens by water, these vessels are
perhaps the most extraordinary ; scarcely any thing can be
conceived so inadequate, from the slightness of their con-
struction, to the purpose they are applied to, and to con-
tend against the impetuous torrent of the many rapids that
must be passed through in the course of a voyage. They
seldom exceed thirty feet in length, and six in breadth,
diminishing to a sharp point at each end, without distinc-
tion of head or stern : the frame is composed of small
pieces of some very light wood ; it is then covered with
the bark of the birch tree, cut into convenient slips, that
are rarely more than the eighth of an inch in thickness ;
these are sewed together with threads made from the
twisted fibres of the roots of a particular tree, and strength-
ened where necessary by narrow strips of the same mate-
rials applied on the inside ; the joints in this fragile
planking are made water-tight, by being covered with a spe-
cies of gum that adheres very firmly, and becomes perfectly
hard. No iron-work of any description, not even nails,
are employed in building these slender vessels, which,
when complete, weigh only about five, hundred weight
each. On being prepared for the voyage they receive
their lading, that for the convenience of carrying across
the portages is made up in packages of about three-quar-
Q Q2
596 LOWER CANADA.
ters of a hundred weight each, and amounts altogether to
five tons, or a little more, including provisions, and other
necessaries for the men, of whom from eight to ten are
employed to each canoe : they usually set out in brigades
like the bateaux, and in the course of a summer upwards of
fifty of these vessels are thus dispatched. They proceed
up the Grand, or Ottawa River, as far as the south-west
branch, by which, and a chain of small lakes, they reach
Lake Nipissing ; through it, and down the French River
into Lake Huron ; along its northern coast, up the narrows
of St. Mary, into Lake Superior, and then, by its northern
side, to the Grand Portage, a distance of about 1100 miles
from the place of departure. The difficulties encountered
in this voyage are not easily conceived ; the great number
of rapids in the rivers, the different portages from lake to
lake, which vary from a few yards to three miles or more
in length, where the canoes must be unladen, and with
their contents carried to the next water, occasion a succes-
sion of labours and fatigues of which but a poor estimation
can be formed by judging it from the ordinary occupations
of other labouring classes. From the Grand Portage, that
is nine miles across, a continuation of the same toils takes
place in bark canoes of an inferior size, through the chain
of lakes and streams that run from the height of land west-
ward to the Lake of the Woods, Lake Winnepeg, and
onwards to more distant establishments of the company in
the remote regions of the north-west country. The men
employed in this service are called voyageurs ; they are
robust, hardy, and resolute, capable of enduring great ex-
tremes of fatigue and privation for a long time with a
patience almost inexhaustible. In the large lakes they
are frequently daring enough to cross the deep bays, often
a distance of several leagues, in their canoes, to avoid
lengthening the route by coasting them ; yet, notwithstand-
ing all the risks and hardships attending their employment,
SEIGNIORIES. 597
they prefer it to every other, and are very seldom induced
to relinquish it in favour of any more settled occupation.
The few dollars they receive as the compensation for so
many privations and dangers are in general dissipated with
a most careless indifference to future wants, and when at
an end, they very contentedly renew the same series of
toils to obtain a fresh supply. Three leagues from La
Chine is the village of Pointe Claire, situated on a point
of land of the same name ; it contains from 90 to 100
houses, built with regularity, and forming small streets
that cross the main road at right angles. There is a neat
parish church, a parsonage- house; and one or two tolerable
good houses for the accommodation of travellers. The
local beauties of this place can boast of many attractions,
being surrounded by extensive orchards, arid excellent
gardens. About three leagues eastward of Montreal is
Pointe-au-Tremble, a neat village of fifty houses, a church,
chapel, and a parsonage-house: The main road to Quebec
passes through this place, which always brings to it a constant
succession of travellers, for whose reception there are some
inns, where accommodation, in all the principal requisites,
is to be obtained. These are the only villages on the
island; but in every parish there is a great number of good
houses scattered about, though but few are placed close
together ; they are mostly built of stone, as that material is
to be had every where in great abundance. The city of
Montreal is within this seigniory ; it stands on the south
side of the island, in lat. 45°. 31' N. and 73°. 35' W. : the
second of the province in point of size, but with respect to
situation, local advantages, and superiority of climate, it is
undoubtedly unrivalled by Quebec itself*.
* Montreal, in 1818, was found to contain 25,000 inhabitants.
Quebec does not contain so many by some thousands. — R. G.
598 LOWER CANADA.
ISLE JESUS is in the county of Effingham, comprehend-
ing the whole of the island, in length twenty-one miles,
and six at its greatest breadth, lying north-west of that of
Montreal, from which it is separated by the Riviere des
Prairies, and from the main land by the Riviere St. Jean
or Jesus. The land is every where level, rich, and well
cultivated: on the south-east side, bordering the river,
there are some excellent pasturages, and very fine meadows ;
the other parts produce grain, vegetables, and fruits in
great perfection and abundance. From almost every cor-
ner of it being turned to agricultural uses, there is very
little wood remaining, except what is left for ornament on
the different farms. There is one road that goes entirely
round the island, and one that runs through the middle
lengthways ; these are connected by others that open an
easy communication between every part of it. Around the
island are several corn and saw-mills on the two large rivers ;'
in the interior there is no stream of sufficient force to work
either. About midway of the Riviere des Prairies is the
strong rapid called the Sault an Recollet. The rafts of
timber that are brought down the Ottawa from the upper
townships descend this river into the Saint Lawrence at
the Bout de 1'Isle. The communication between Isle
Jesus, and the islands of Montreal and Bizare, and the
main land, is kept up by several ferries in convenient situ-
ations, for maintaining a continual and sure intercourse.
TERREBCTNNE. The soil towards the lower part is as
rich and luxuriant as any within the province ; about Des-
plaines it is generally of a first rate quality, but the remote
parts are mountainous, with a rough gravelly or stony soil.
The rivers Achigan and Mascouche, with three or four
rivulets, water it most completely. The high lands produce
abundance of beech, maple, birch, and elm timber ; in some
SEIGNIORIES. 599
few places that lie low and wet there are cedars and spruce
firs : full two-thirds of this property is conceded, with the
greatest number of the lots, in as respectable a state of
cultivation as any in the district, and extremely productive
in wheat, barley, and other grains. The front along the
river is particularly well settled, and in this tract there is
every appearance of comfort, and even affluence, among
the tenantry, The different streams turn some very good
grist and saw-mills, but those distinguished by the name of
the Terrebonne mills are, without exception, the most com-
plete and best constructed of any in the country ; they
were very much improved by the late proprietor, who used
every exertion, and disregarded expence, to render them
of general utility to this part of the district. His desire of
promoting the interest of the labouring part of the commu-
nity has fully succeeded. Some of the houses, and part
of the machinery were destroyed by fire a few years ago ;
but they were immediately rebuilt, and placed in their
former state by the present occupier, Henry M'Kenzie,
Esq. A carding machine and fulling-mill have also been
introduced, which are found of great service, where the
poor people, as is the case in this country, depend much
upon the home-made woollen cloths for their common
wear. The village of Terrebonne is pleasantly situated
on a projecting point of land, having several beautiful
islands in front, which, by their varied and romantic sce-
nery, greatly contribute to embellish the prospect. It con-
tains about 150 well-built houses of wood and stone, be-
sides the church and parsonage-house, the seignorial-house,
and the mansion of Roderick M'Kenzie, Esq. which is
worthy of remark for the elegance of its construction ; in-
deed there are several houses in a very superior style to be
found in this village, it being a favoured spot, where many
gentlemen, who have realized large fortunes in the north*
west company fur trade, retire to enjoy the comforts and
600 LOWER CANADA.
luxuries of private life. It is also a place of some traffic, oc-
casioned by the continued influx of persons bringing grain
to the mills from distant parts, and by the large exports of
flour that annually take place; in consequence many of the
residents are traders and artisans, whese commercial con-
cerns impose a degree of consequence upon the village.
The population is sufficiently great to give a maintenance
to a schoolmaster for educating the youth.
MILLE ISLES forms two distinct seigniories, called Du
Chene and Blainville. The land within the grant of Mille
Isles is, for the most part, a good, rich, and productive
soil of different compositions, very eligible for raising all
the various sorts of grain and other productions usual in
this part of the province. The prevailing sorts of timber
are beech, ash, maple, and some oak. The greatest part
of this property is conceded, and most of the lots settled
upon by an industrious tenantry. At the mouth of Riviere
du Chene is the pleasant well-built village of St. Eustache,
containing from 80 to 90 houses, a handsome church, and
parsonage-house.
LAC DES DEUX MONTAGNES. Through the whole of
this tract the soil is very favourable, in many parts consist-
ing of a fine strong loam, with a mixture of rich black
earth, that is found to contain a large share of fertile pro-
perties. The surface is uneven, but never varies into pre-
judicial extremes : bordering on the lake, in the vicinity
of the Indian village, it is of a moderate height, from thence
westward to the Eboulis it gradually sinks into a flat, from
which it rises again near the boundary of Argenteuil :
eastward of the village, nearly to the seigniory of Mille
Isles, runs a low heath, having a large bay on one side of
it ; at a short distance from the front are two conspicuous
mountains that give the name to both seigniory and lake ;
SEIGNIORIES. 601
one of them is called Mount Calvart, on whose summit are
the remains of some buildings, which have long borne the
appellation of the Seven Chapels. Towards the interior
the ground declines below the level of the front ; proceed-
ing further to the rear, there are some ranges of heights
that assume rather a mountainous character, but in the
spaces between them are many excellent situations for
settlements. It is very well watered. Oak and pine tim-
ber are found in some places, but beech, maple, birch, and
other inferior kinds are plentiful in the woods* The Indian
village is agreeably seated on a point of land projecting
into the lake, and consists of about 60 houses, a church,
and a parsonage-house, where a missionary always resides,
for the purpose of superintending and instructing the inha-
bitants in the doctrines of the Christian religion. The
Indians of this village are the descendants of a tribe that
formerly inhabited, or rather frequented, the lands border-
ing upon Lake Huron, but being engaged in one of the
wars that so frequently wasted whole nations of these wan-
derers, they were surprised by the vigilance of their ene-
mies, and nearly exterminated ; the few who did survive
the massacre effected their escape to the eastward, and
their progeny now occupies two or three small villages in
different parts of the province. Those of the village of the
Two Mountains are become civilized, and have adopted
many of the manners and customs of the Canadians who
reside in their vicinity, and acquired a knowledge of the
French language, which they make use of fluently enough :
they are quiet and inoffensive in all their modes of life,
preserving the greatest harmony among themselves, and
civility towards the other inhabitants. They place an im-
plicit confidence in the resident minister, whose influence
over them is unbounded. Some lands are assigned to
them near their village, which they cultivate with wheat,
Indian corn, and other grain; of late years they have also
602 LOWER CANADA.
planted potatoes in considerable quantities : from these
sources, increased by the produce of the chase, which a
part of the men follow during the winter season, a subsist-
ence is derived, that apparently they enjoy with some of
the comforts of civilization.
ARGENTEUIL is on the north bank of the Ottawa, in
the county of York. It adjoins the seigniory of the Lac
des deux Montagues on the eastward, the township of
Chatham on the westward, and a tract of waste crown
lands on the northward ; its front extends two leagues along
the river, by four in depth. It was granted March 7,
1725, to Mons. Dailiebout. The present proprietor is Sir
John Johnson, Bart. Perhaps through all the upper part
of the district of Montreal, no tract of equal extent will be
found of greater fertility, or possessing more capabilities of
being converted within a few years into a most valuable
property. The land is luxuriantly rich in nearly every
part of it, while the different species of soils are so well
varied as to afford undeniable situations for raising abun-
dant crops of every kind. The lower part, bordering on
the Ottawa, is tolerably well cleared of wood, where are
large patches of fine meadow and pastures ; from hence
the ground rises with a gradual ascent towards the rear.
In the back parts the woods run to a great extent, and
yield timber of the different kinds of first rate size and
goodness, which have hitherto been very little thinned by
the labours of the woodman. The settlements that are al-
ready formed in Argenteuil hardly amount to a third part
of the whole ; the remainder, however, presents many
temptations to agricultural speculation. Of the present
concessions, some are situated on the bank of the Ottawa,
where they seem to be the most numerous, as well as rather
the best cultivated ; others on the Riviere Rouge ; in a
range between it and Riviere du Nord ; and along both
SEIGNIORIES. 603
banks of the latter: all shewing strong indications of a
thriving industry in their occupiers. There are two gristr
mills, two saw-mills, and a paper-mill, Ihe only one I be-
lieve in the province, where a large manufacture of that
article in all its different qualities is carried on with much
success, under the direction of the proprietor, Mr. Brown,
of Montreal.
LA PETITE NATION was granted May 16th, 1674, to
Messire Francois de Laval, Bishop of Petree, the first
Bishop of Quebec. It is now the property of I. Papineau,
Esq. The whole of this grant, with the exception of a
small spot, remains in a state of woodland; recently,
however, the present proprietor, a gentleman of Montreal,
and for many years a member of the provincial parliament,
has retired to it with an intention to commence a plan of
improvement, that, if persevered in, will be likely to
realize many of the advantages that its situation and other
favourable contingencies hold forth the promise of. The
Ottawa indents the front by several bays, and large ponds,
towards which the land is^low, but of excellent quality,
where there are ranges of soil stretching a great distance
to the interior, fit for the cultiva'ion of every species of
grain, hemp, flax, and grasses of all descriptions. On the
margin of the rivers, large tracts of fine natural meadows
and pastures at present enrich only the earth with their ex-
uberant plenty. The inlets and ponds abound with fish in
great variety, and the neighbouring grounds with game,
duck, teal, and other wild fowl, in great quantities. Pe-
netrating deeper into the seigniory, the land has a gradual
ascent, and is clothed with timber of the best kinds; the
oak is of superior quality, particularly some of the largest
dimensions, fit for ship-building. The main ridge of moun-
tains, that runs a westerly course from Quebec imtil it
falls upon the Ottawa, crosses La Petite Nation about the
4
t)04 LOWER CANADA.
middle; beyond this intersection the remainder of the
grant has been only partially explored, but the quality of
the part that has been observed is mnch inferior to
that of the south ; although the various sorts of timber
appear to retain their superiority, or at any rate it is but
very little diminished. From the range of heights, and the
upper lands, several small streams have their sources,
from whence, in various directions, they water the valleys
in their way to the Grand River, but they are too inconside-
rable for other purposes than irrigation, and working of
mills.
TOWNSHIPS.
CHATHAM is situated on the north side of the Ottawa
River, in the county of York, bounded on the east by the
seigniory of Argenteuil, on the west by Grenville, and in
the rear by Wentworth. It has been surveyed, divided
into farm lots, and all granted. Colonel Robertson, who
obtained the largest proportion of any person therein, has
been the active promoter of an extensive settlement along
the river, where the soil is well varied and good, fit for
grain, hemp, flax, or indeed most other productions, and
which is also the case with the greatest portion of the
township. There are also many fine tracts of natural
meadow, and some rich pastures. In the rear the surface
is broken and uneven, the land inferior in quality, and
choked with rocks, and other impediments to cultivation.
The timber, in general, is of the best sorts, with much
valuable pine and oak, fit for naval purposes. By the side
of the Ottawa there is a good road, that is the main route
from Montreal to the upper townships on the bank of that
river. The Riviere du Nord and several smaller streams
water it; by the first-mentioned, the timber felled in this
and some of the adjoining townships is floated down to the
TOWNSHIPS. 605
Ottawa. In front of the township are some small islands,
that, in the intervals between them, form several rapids.
WENT WORTH is situated in the rear of Chatham, and
has the full dimensions of an inland township, about one
quarter of which is subdivided and granted. The greater
part of this tract is mountainous and rocky, very inappli-
cable to arable purposes ; but on the three first ranges, all
that has hitherto been surveyed, the land is found to be of a
tolerable good quality, but not any part of it is yet settled
upon. Although there are no very strong inducements to
attempt cultivation, this township produces most excellent
timber for naval purposes, in great abundance, with the
advantage of easy conveyance by the Riviere du Nord, by
which it is watered, besides several other streams and
small lakes.
GRENVILLE, including an additional parcel of land
added thereto since the original grant, is the second town-
ship to the westward on the Ottawa River, situated
between the seigniory of La Petite Nation and Chatham,
and bounded in the rear by unsurveyed lands of the town-
ship of Harrington. In the nature of the soil, the species
and quality of the timber, it greatly resembles Chatham.
A grant of large extent has been made to Archibald
M'Millan and others, emigrants from Scotland, but very
little of it is at present under culture.
LOCHABER, (Suffolk) on the north side of the Ottawa
River, between the seigniory of La Petite Nation and the
township of Buckingham, in the county of York, has been
partly surveyed ; thirteen thousand two hundred and sixty-
one acres were granted in the year 1807, to Archibald
M'Millan and others, emigrants from Scotland ; of this
portion .very little has been yet cultivated. Along the
606 LOWER CANADA.
front, the river forms several deep bays, in which direction
the land is so low, that it is frequently overflowed ; but if
the settlements should become more numerous, embank-
ments might be raised to repress the incursion of the
waters ; this part would then become good meadow, and a
short distance towards the interior, much of it would be
good arable. Proceeding to the rear, the land is broken
and rugged up to the ridge of mountains, beyond which
there is nothing at all improvable, at least in their vicinity.
Much of the timber within this trac% both oak and pine,
is fit for naval purposes. Several rivers and streams wind
through the township ; neither of the former are navigable
for boats, though timber may be floated down them to the
Ottawa, which here expands greatly in breadth, and has
several islands in it that are all well covered with wood : the
largest of them is a mile long, and about a quarter of a
mile broad.
BUCKINGHAM, on the north bank of the Ottawa, in the
county of York, joins Lochaber ; four ranges of it have
been surveyed, and little more than one quarter granted.
Bordering the river the land is low, and from several large
bays and ponds that run a great way into it , is frequently
overflowed; but when that is not the case, there is some
excellent meadow land, and also some that is tolerably
good for other purposes. In the rear the soil is but indif-
ferent ; in places, so uneven and stony as to be fit for no
sort of tillage. It is watered by several small streams, de-
scending from the rear into the Ottawa. A few families
have settled on convenient spots in front of the township,
and pursue their agricultural labours with success, and fa-
vourable prospects of improvement.
TEMPLETON is the next township to Buckingham :
about one half thereof has been granted to Archibald
TOWNSHIPS. 607 '
M'Millan and others, his associates, but as yet very few
persons have settled upon it. The land approaching- the
Ottawa is rather low, but the soil tolerably good for the
production of most species of grain, and many of the most
useful succulents ; the back parts are not much inferior to
the front. The timber is mostly beech, maple, bass wood,
pine, and some oak, with cedar and hemlock on the lower
grounds. It is well watered by the River Gatineau, the
Riviere Blanche, and some smaller streams.
HULL joins Templeton on the west. In 1806 one quar-
ter of this township was surveyed and granted to Philemon
Wright, and his associates. This portion is situated on a
large bend, or turn of the Ottawa, and as the mountains
here abut upon the river, and the land behind them not
being arable, the whole of it was laid out along the front.
The soil is of a fair medium quality, fit for all the farmer's
general purposes: what part of it is cultivated produces
very good crops of all kinds of grain, &c. About thirty
families are settled here, and have their farms in a very re-
spectable state of cultivation and progressive improvement.
The timber is, for the most part, of the best sort, the oak
fit for naval purposes, and much of the pine for masts of
large dimensions. Mr. Wright, as the head of the town-
ship, has been indefatigable in promoting the increase and
prosperity of this infant settlement. In viewing the pro-
gress already made, the greatest encomiums will be called
forth for the manner in which, by his own example and en-
couragement, he has so essentially promoted it, and for
settling upon the lands himself. He carries on the timber
trade to a great extent, and a large manufactory of pot
and pearl ashes ; he has established a school, erected a
meeting-house, and adopted various means to excite the
industry, and secure comfort and happiness to all classes
of his little society. His own habitation is pleasantly
608 LOWER CANADA.
situated at the east end of the township, on the bank of the
Ottawa ; close by it there is a short portage, and nearly
fronting it are some small islands that greatly obstruct and
break the current of the river; on the opposite side a fall,
twenty-six feet high, forms an agreeable object in the pros-
pect ; a little above this place is a reef of rocks, stretching
nearly across the river, and the falls of La Petite Chaudiere.
The townships on the Ottawa abounding with timber of
the best growth, either for ship-building, masting, plank-
ing, or staves, it may be worth \vhile to remark, that a
very great proportion of that trade has been furnished
from them to Montreal and Quebec ; not from those on
the north side only, but vast quantities have been supplied
from those on the south, in the Upper Province, and the
rafts of it brought down the rivers Rideau and Petite
Nation, into the Ottawa. From the former, a road lead-
ing to the settlements in the neighbourhood of Kingston
will, in a short period, from the increasing population and
consequence of that district, become of great necessity.
It is an object, therefore, worthy the attention of the go-
vernment of that province, to give every encouragement to
facilitate its immediate formation : when completed, a
communication from the back townships to Montreal will
be opened, more direct and much shorter than the present
one, for the conveyance of their produce to a certain
market.
EARDLEY and ONSLOW are the two last townships on
the Ottawa that have been surveyed, 1815, and partial
grants made therein, although several others are projected,
and names given to them. The front of both of them ex-
tends along Lake Chaudiere, or Kettle Lake. The lands
that have been examined in the former are found to be of a
favourable description; many parts suitable both for hemp
and flax, as well as grain, but no settlements have been yet
TOWNSHIPS. 609
established upon them. The main westerly ranges of
mountains terminate upon the river hereabouts. In the
latter township, the first range, and part of the second, are
an almost continued ledge of flat rocks, with scarce any
soil upon them, except only a very few lots that have been
granted ; the third and fourth ranges appear to be very
good land, that would soon become profitable with careful
culture ; but the fifth and sixth are poor and swampy, not
worth the trouble of draining, and covered with hemlock,
and other woods of small value. At the west end of this
township is one of the many rapids of the Ottawa, called
the Rapide des Chats.
NEWTON, in the county of York, lying oetween the
seigniories of Rigaud, Soulange, and New Longeuil, is of
an irregular figure, and very advantageously situated,
contiguous to the settlements in the Upper Province.
On the western side the land is of a very superior quality,
and will produce all sorts of grain ; many parts also might
be employed to great advantage in growing hemp and flax.
The eastern side is much lower, inclining here and there
for short distances to be marshy : there is, however, no
actual swamp ; and if the low grounds, that are rather wet,
were carefully ditched and drained, they would prove most
excellent land, and furnish luxuriant meadow and pasture,
as well as good arable. On the most elevated parts, the
principal timber is maple, beech, and birch ; on the others,
cedar, red spruce, alder, and hemlock. As the grants in
this township are all recent, only a few of the lots are yet
cultivated, but the goodness of situation, and several other
local advantages, are likely soon to induce settlers in much
greater numbers. The greatest landholders are the Ho-
nourable A. C. de Lotbiniere, Saveuse de Beaujeu, Esq.
and Mr. John M'Nider.
R R
STATISTICAL
Composed of Extracts from Township Reports of the
' WAGES ok
£ ,
. £
Names of
Townships.
When Settled.
Inhabited Houses.
No. of People.
No. of Churches
Meeting-Houses
No. of Preachers.
"3
Is
•si
c-2
z
No. of Schools.
Fees per Quarter.
No. of Stores.
No. of Taverns.
No. of Grist Mills
No. of Saw Mill*.
*i
1S
Price of Lime pet
bushel.
(Blacksmiths per
mon. and day.
Masons per day.
Carpenters p. day
(Common Laboure
per annum.
Haldi-
111 anil . .
1797
..
..
1
..
,J
4
s. d.
12 6
5
4
S
4
«. d.
35 0
a. d.
\ 3
L. ».:
5 0
*. rf
7 6
*.rf.
63
L. s.
Tburlow
1786
240
1-200
..
.,
9
4
10 0
16
7
4
6
30 0
1 8
5 0
6 S
6 S SO 0
Sophias-
burg ..
1790
101
-
0
"
1
5
19 6
4
7
6_
,6
•"i^.
37 6
0 6i
Pr". D.
8 9
89
31 1
Hallowell
..
..
..
1M
1Q.
iQ-
2
4
13 9
9
4
4
6
97 6
0 9
5. d.
S 9
8 9
89
31 1
Atlolplms-
1 M
town ..
178*
••
1Q.
••
0
3
••
1
2
0
6
35 0
1 0
T 6
7 6
7 6
85 0
Ernest-
1 E.
town ..
1784
..
2450
1 M
1 M.
3
14
10 0
9
31
5
13
33 9
o 74
7 6
7 6
95 0
1L.
IE
IE.
Kingston
1783
550
2850
\R.
IP.
4
8
97 6
mm
-
1
3
30 0
1 0
..
..
86
97 0
2M.
2M
Lansdown
1788
36
205
.*.
..
0
1
..
I
3
..
1
30 0
..
..
7 6
7 6
33 16
Wolford
1797
55
320
4
Charlot-
1 R
tenburgh
178*
600
2500
3 P.
1R.
2R.
2
12
••
12
18
4
6
30 0 It
8 1
S S
7 €
30 10
Totals
..
1489
95*25
10
9
15
59
101 3
57
66
29
5*
278 <
.7 5*
31 1C
70 (1
76 0 233 -
Averag-
ed by
6
6
7
g
g
4
9
10
8
* "
'
Averages
--
247
1557
-•
-•
14 6
"
••
--
30 1
"4
7 11
7 0
7 7 29 3
Composed of Extracts from Township Reports
Sandwich
1750
200
1000
,,
2 R.
1 F.
9
3
13
8
9
0
45 0
P.day
10
10 o
31 5
Maiden
1784
10S
675
IH.
1 R.
2
3
20
12
6
2
..
40
1 3
10
10
10 0
30 0
Raleigh
179-2
53
273
0
1M.
0
I
15
5
1
2
..
37 6
..
5
10
5 7
--
Dover.frr.
179*
133
79H
..
1
4
15
7
4
2
1
35 0
7 6
10
7 6
30 0
I'otals
..
44
I7i«
i
b
5
II
50
37
IS
15
1
1*7 6
1 3
*2 6
40
Srf 1
01 b
Averag-
ed by
4
4
3
4
3
4
4
|
Average,
31 10
••
10
8 6
M 8
In Columns five and «ix, E. stands for Episcopal ; Q. for Quaker;
TABLE,
Newcastle, Midland, Johnstown, and Eastern Districts.
WAGL:S OF
||
PRICES OF LIVE STOCK, fe
2
m
™
- —
E
E
Common Labourers
per Winter Montli.
Common Labourers
per Summer Mon
Common Labourers.
perdayinHarve§t.
Women's Wages,
per week.
1
g«SS
o
A Work Horse.
1
<
An Ox.
3
•t
ttuantity of Wool r
I Sheep.
Price of Wool per
Produce of Wheat
Bushels, per Am
An Ox will gain in
Summer's run.
S.
I
"S
|s
Price of Cheese, p
Ib.
Price of Land per Ac
•at first.
Price of Land per Ac
now.
*. (t.
s. d.
a. d.
s. d.
L. 8.
L. s.
L. s. L. s.\ s. d.
tb.
s. d.
K
*. d.
*. d. s. d.
*. d.
"
70 0
5 0
5 0
12 10
15 0
5 0
10 0 15 0
S
9 6
25
-.
I 0
074
6 0
19 6
40 0
67 6
6 3
5 0
11 6
20 0
5 10
10 0
12 6
3
9 9
20
350
1 14
OSJ
4 0
32 0
47 6
80 0
»
5 6
18 15
5 0
10 0
IS 6
24
2 6
224
"
1 0
074
1 0
20 0
45 0
65 0
6 3
57
••
17 10
5 10
9 7
17 6
3*
9 6
294
60
1 8
0 8
3 9
33 6
40 0
56 0
ft 0
5 0
19 10
••
••
"
11 0
34
1 6
30
250
1 0
06|
1 0
80 0
37 6
50 0
50
4 0
12 10
15 0
5 0
9 10
12 6
3
2 0
17J
112
1 1
074
••
35 0
^__
40 0
55 0
50
6 3
16 17
IS 10
5 0
6 0
15 0
si
2 6
22J
112
1 6
074
..
..
..
..
5 0
5 0
18 15
15 0
6 15
10 7
12 6
SJ
2 S
..
..
..
..
0 6
14 3
35 0
55 0
6 0
& 0
SO 0
1ft 0
5 0
8 0
..
3
3 6
234
336
M
1 3
6 0
47 6
65 0
40
6 0
20 0
12 10
5 5
10 0
16 3
54
1 10
17J
»
1 li
064
30
25 0
S32 6
562 6
46 6
51 4
124 7
142 547 0
85 4
124 9
33
23 10
190
1230
9 1
5 0
196
346 2
8
9
9
10
8
9
9
9
9
10
10
9
•
8
8
8
9
41 6
62 6
& 2
5 1
15 11
15 16
5 4
9 9
13 10
3i
2 4
81
203
11J
074
3 5
27 4
3
of the Western District.
_
45 0
67 6
5 7
6 1
12 10
12 10
5 0
7 10
20 0
*i
3 6
120
1 10
I 3
13 6
60 0
75 0
5 0
7 6
25 0
16 0
6 0
7 0
17 6
34
3 s] 27^
..
L 3
I 3
1 6
25 0
50 0
62 6
5 0
6 3
24 0
14 8
5 8
..
20 0
2.1
2 6
20
..
1 s
1 3
..
..
40 e
7O (I
5 0
5 1
..
14 0
6 5
10 0
17 6
SJ
3 1
25
200
1 3
1 3
2 6
90 0
185 0
375 (>
30*7
35 5
61 10
66 18
93 13| 24 10
76 0
13
10 4 72J
330
j -;
5 0;* 0
57 6
4
4
4
4
3
4
4
3
4
4
4
S
2
4
is
3
46 S
68 9
& 3
6 4
20 10
14 4
5 13
8 S
18 9
4
2 7
24
160
1 5
1 3.3 0
19 3
M. tor Btothodtet ; R. for Roman Catholic', L. for Lutheran, and P, for Presbyterian,
R R 2
612 GENERAL SUMMARY, &C,
GENERAL SUMMARY, &c.
HAVING produced the whole regular informa-
tion concerning Upper Canada, which the inhabit-
ants put into my hands, and having from place to
place introduced SUMMARIES of such facts and
opinions as seemed of most consequence to bear in
mind and arrange, I shall now combine these, and
make out a general abstract of information.
The amount of population has been the first ob-
ject of attention, and results stand as follows :
Western District . . . . 4,158
London ditto t *>-*••***• r**-*- 8,907
Gore ditto . . . ;. . , 6,684
Niagara ditto ..... 12,548
Home ditto V V C ;v* 7,700
Newcastle ditto .... 5,000
Midland ditto V ;. V . 14,853
Johnstown ditto .... 9,200
Eastern ditto ^ ./ * ^; j 12,700
Ottawa ditto . . ... 1,500
83,250
The writer of the Sketches (page 139) calcu-
lates, that in 1811, the province contained 76,984
people. The grounds of his calculation were the
number of people, taxed, multiplied by 8, the
number which he had found to be the proportion
GENERAL SUMMARY, &C. 618
to the number taxed in a particular township.
Without having looked back to his reckoning, I
assumed the number of people taxed in the New-
castle District as my ground work, multiplied that
number by 6,- as the average number of each fa-
mily whose head member was taxed, and added
266 persons for untaxed families and individuals,
to make up the even number of 5,000 as the total.
Had I calculated by 8, the total would have been
6,312, or 1,312 above my fixed result. Were the
rule of calculation adopted by the writer of the
Sketches generally correct, my error would be in
assuming too small a number of untaxed people,
viz. §66 instead of 1,578, and this would be a
great error indeed ; but it is well to investigate
error for the sake of coming at truth. My assump-
tion of 6 for a family was fair. The assumption of
the number 266 was purely hypothetical, and in
the Newcastle District may not be so far wrong as
it would appear to be from the above contrast.
The writer of the Sketches assumes the number
8 for each name on the assessment roll, from his
certain knowledge of one Township, viz. Ernest-
town. Now Ernest-town was one of the first
settled Townships, and in 1811 perhaps the most
flourishing in the Province. In such a Township
the proportion of untaxed persons will be much
greater than in a thinly settled one, and where im-
provement is proceeding with spirit. Spirited im-
provement requires many hands, and attracts them
from other places ; and so we find it said in the
Ernest-town Report, that " itinerant tradesmen
614 GENERAL SUMMARY, &c.
from the United States often augment the po-
pulation by some hundreds," none of whom
would be entered on the assessment roll : besides,
as a settlement gets old and wealthy, the number
in families increases from an increased number of
children, domestic servants, shopmen, &c. —
Newcastle District was not early settled, is re-
mote, thinly settled, and in consequence has had
little spirited improvement, each farmer doing
his own work with little assistance from hired la-
bourers, &c. Indeed, when I viewed the number
of people which resulted from my calculation, and
considered the proportional estimate which I had
in my mind, by travelling through it, with that of
other Districts, I was more afraid that the result
was above than below the mark.
Comparing my estimate of population with that
made out in 1811, viz.: 83,250 with 76,984, the
increase may at first sight appear too small for six
years ; but circumstances should be considered.
In 1812, when war was declared by the United
States, a proclamation was issued by the person
administering the government of Upper Canada,
desiring those persons to depart the Province who
were not heartily resolved to espouse the British
cause. In consequence of this, some who had
settled but a few years, did go off cfuietly, and
others at different periods of the contest followed
them ; some from dread, and some traitorously.
Thus, and by the waste of war, there must have
been a diminution of several thousands.
Immediately after the war, in 1815 and 1816, a
GENERAL SUMMARY, &C. 615
tide of emigration from the States was setting into
the Province, which had then acquired reputation
as a place of security, not only from the gallantry
of its own people, but from the zealous efforts ma-
nifested by the British government in its defence.
Many Americans at that time, soured with their
own government, and exasperated by party vio-
lence, were anxious t6 retreat into Canada; and
there, undoubtedly, would have become the most
loyal subjects of the king. This tide, however,
had only begun to move, when it was stopped by
orders from the Lieu tenant-Governor, not only in
the face of ancient statutes, but contrary to com-
mon sense and the best policy. In 1817 not a
creature could safely settle in the Province from
the United States ; and partly from discontent,
partly from a succession of bad seasons, there was
a disposition in many of the provincials to sell off
their property, and move further to the south, into
Indiana and the Illinois.
Having thus reasoned and explained, I shall
give in so far. I think the amount of population,
as it appears from the Township Reports, and
otherwise by analogy, must be below the mark,
Some of the reporters, I suspect, have given me
the population from assessment rolls alone, without
taking into account the untaxed part of the com-
munity, and perhaps 90,000 is not too many to
estimate as the total amount. In a recent publi-
cation I have seen it stated at 94,000, even so
early as 1814. This, I am convinced, was too high,
616 GENERAL SUMMARY, &C.
and Heriot's estimate, made out in 1806, must
have been greatly so.
The chief end of these observations is to draw
attention to the subject in future. Nothing can
be easier than for the rulers of any country to ob-
tain correct returns of population, births, deaths,
&c. annually, from which interesting conclusions
may be drawn.
Of the Indian population my account is vague,
but it is of little consequence.
Western District . ' . ./ 7 1,000
Gore ditto V . .'. . . V ,, 1,859
Home ditto ..... ? 200
Midland ditto .... 200
Total domiciled in or near
the surveyed tracts . 3,259
Throughout the wilderness there are many
more; but every where they are decreasing in
number, and since the treaty of Ghent, by which
the independence of the Indian nations between
Detroit and the Mississippi was given up, Canada
must no longer trust to the tomahawk for de-
fence in war — a consummation not to be re-
gretted.
In the above estimate of population, as it stood
in 18175 no notice has been taken of the mass of
settlers from the United Kingdom since the war.
Upon a mere surmise, and I have nothing else for
it, these emigrants may have amounted
GENERAL SUMMARY, &C. 617
IQ 1816, to . . '. . >;^/l .V* H 2,000
In 1817, to .".?'.* v: ^i^-V<4 , 3,000
In 1818, to . . ; '.-» ••'. ^.^P^' -*.?< 6,000
In 1819, to . . . : ... . ^ 8,000
By a late newspaper account there
have arrived this year (1820) at Que-
bec, 11,239 emigrants, about 1,200
less than last year; but supposing the
arrangement for settling the country
improved, perhaps fewer of these have
passed into the United States ; say,
that actual settlers have amounted to . 8,000
27,000
Of discharged soldiers settled since
the war, and abiding, I have still a less
perfect knowledge ; but for the sake of
being corrected by those who know, we
shall suppose, with women and chil-
dren . . . . v .; •. . ;. :: v :.__;," >>;",.>!• 6,000
Of settlers, on purchase, from the
United States, for three years, 1818,
1819, and 1820, we shall, in the same
way suppose ,;j '/;*] 2,000
Settled population estimated above,
1817 . . &sjifj& ;-•:'•*«>• • • • 90,000
Natural increase of these in 3 years 6,000
Indians . . . ... w^u^ *. . . . ;. 3,259
134,259
There are generally about 2,500 military and
naval people occupying the various forts, &c.
618 GENERAL SUMMARY, &C.
throughout the Province. In order of importance
these are, Kingston say 1,500*; Niagara 300* ;
York 150*; Amherstburgh 100*; Drummond's
Island 60* (near Michilimackinac) ; Fort Wel-
lington 20*; Fort Erie, Chippawa, and Queens-
ton: Mouth of the Grand River and naval establish-
ments, Penetangushene: several block houses have
been abandoned entirely.
From the statistical tables of the Western, Lon-
don, Gore, and Niagara Districts, it appears that
42 townships contain 24,734 people; and suppos-
ing these townships to average 100 miles square,
there are not 6 people to a square mile ; while
these townships are better settled than many inter-
mixed with them.
Supposing that there were in Upper Canada, in
1817, 100,000 inhabitants, including emigrants
and discharged soldiers ; and supposing 160 town-
ships then surveyed contained 100 square miles
each, there would not be quite seven persons to
the square mile ; a miserably thin population. Eng-
land, with all its wastes, averages 200 souls to the
square mile, and some of the thickly peopled
counties upwards of double that. Canada, under
good cultivation, could, I am convinced, maintain
a third part more people over the same extent than
England ; and at such a rate, that part of it laying
between Lakes Ontario and Erie, northward, so
* These numbers are given chiefly to denote the proportional
importance of the respective stations, and with no pretension t«
accuracy as to the number of the^ military and naval people.
GENERAL SUMMARY, &C. 619
far as Lake Nipissing, might nourish 15 millions of
people.
For the reported population of 26,977 in the
Western, London, Gore, and Niagara districts,
there appear to be 20 places of worship and 35
resident preachers, of whom
15 are Methodists
5 Baptists
4 Quakers
3 Presbyterians
3 Roman Catholics
3 Episcopalians
1 Tunker*
1 Menonist*.
For the same population there are 20 medical
practitioners, 132 schools, 1 14- taverns, 130 stores,
79 grist mills, and 1 16 saw mills.
AVERAGE PRICES, throughout the province,
appear to be as follow —
£. s. d.
School fees, per quarter - 0 1 3 8
Bricks, per thousand - - 1 10 11
* Tunkers and Menonists are German sectarians, with only
a shade of difference in their tenets. Tunkers all wear their
beards; some of the Menonists do not shave, but clip their
beards. They will take no concern in political affairs, nor turn
out as militia men ; but cordially agree to union in making roads,
&c. They are a good, inoffensive, unambitious people, and very
obedient to their priests.
620 GENERAL SUMMARY, &c.
£. s. d.
Lime, per bushel - 0 1 0
Blacksmith's wages, per day - 0 7 8
Do. per month - 514 0
Masons, per day -084
Carpenters, per day - 0 7 9
Common labourers, per annum - 28 16 0
Do. per winter month - 2 3 3
Do. per summer do. - 3 5 2
Do. per day, in harvest ^> • - 0 5 2
Women, for house work, per week - 0 5 6
Spinning, generally Is. more.
Cost of clearing and fencing five acres
of wild land - 19 40
Price of a good work horse - 15 11 0
Do. a good cow - -550
Do. an ox - 8 16 0
Do. sheep - 0 14 3
Do. wool, per Ib. - 0 2 5
Do. butter, per do. - 0 1 1 J
Do. cheese, per do. - 0 0 10
Do. wild land, at first - 0 3 9
Do. in 1817 - 1 4 0
N. B. Wheat in 1817 was 6s. per bushel; now
(1820) it is 3s.
An ox will gain in a summer's run 171f Ibs.
Average produce of wheat, per acre 21 bush.
Do. of wool, per sheep ' T-: 3f Ibs.
TIMBER TREES may be supposed to abound
most, as they are most frequently mentioned in
the Reports ; thus :
MAPLE (hard and soft) 53 times : OAK (white,
GENERAL SUMMARY, &C. 621
red, black, swamp) 52: BEECH, 48 : BASSWOOD,
sometimes called WHITE WOOD (page 292), some-
times LYNDEN (page 389), 45 : ASH (black, white,
and swamp), 45: PINE (white), 44: ELM (white
and red), 38: HICKORY, 34: WALNUT (black
and white), 29 : BUTTERNUT, 21 : CHESNUT,
19: CHERRY, 18: IRON WOOD, 15: CEDAR,
12: BIRCH, 8: HEMLOCK (of the fir tribe), 7:
POPLAR, 5: SPRUCE, 5: TAMARACK (a species
of larch), 4: PLUM, ELDER, WILLOW, HAZLE,
and CRAB TREE, twice: BUTTON WOOD, ALDER,
TULIP TREE, QUAKING ASP, SHITTIM WOOD,
SYCAMORE, CYPRESS, MULBERRY, THORN, LO-
CUST, SASSAFRAS, and DOGWOOD, once.
N. B. DOGWOOD, and some others here quoted
from the Reports, should not properly rank as tim-
ber trees.
PLOUGHING begins generally about the 1st of
April : some seasons not till the 15th or 20th.
SOWING WHEAT chiefly in September ; but
sometimes so early as the middle of August, and so
late as the 10th of October.
REAPING WHEAT end of July and beginning
of August ; occasionally so late as September.
CATTLE are turned out to pasture generally the
1st of May, and taken in the end of November:
they can browse in the woods from the 1st of April
till the end of December.
SLEIGHING begins, throughout the upper part
of the province, about the 1st of January, and
continues two months ; in the lower parts of the
622 GENERAL SUMMARY, &C.
province it begins about the 15th of December,
and lasts three months.
MOWING grass for hay, and REAPING, from
3s. 9d. to 7s. 6d. per day.
CR ADDLING wheat, 6s. to 10s. per day.
The customary terms of LETTING LAND, or, as
it is called, letting it on SHARES, is for the land-
owner to have one-third of the produce. If the
land-owner furnishes seed and team, he gets one half;
and if he furnishes every thing but manual labour,
he gets two-thirds.
SELLING PRICE of cultivated farms, see pages
309, 327, 330, 334, 339, 360, 373, 424, 427, 447,
475, &c. &c.
A GOOD FRAME FARM HOUSE COSts from £125
to £250.
A GOOD FRAME BARN, <£125.
A LOG HOUSE, £25.
BLACKSMITH'S work, iron, at the rate of 7Jd.
per Ib. common work; making chains, Is.
An AXE costs 12s. 6d.; a HOE, 5s.; SHOEING
A HORSE, 10S.
CARDING WOOL, 7|d. per Ib. and from 5d.
to9d.
A TAILOR charges, for making a coat, from 20s.
to 27s. 6d. ; and 10s. for pantaloons.
SHOEMAKERS charge 3s. 9d. for making a pair
of shoes; and a WEAVER has, for weaving a yard
of common flannel, Is. to Is. 6d. SAWING, 2s. 6d.
per 100 feet, or half the timber.
THE AVERAGE PRODUCE OF WHEAT per aCT6
being 21 bushels for one of seed, speaks sufficiently
GENERAL SUMMARY, &C. 623
for the fertility of the land. The average produce
of England does not exceed 18 bushels per acre
for 3 bushels of seed. In Canada the husbandry
is in general very bad; in England it is the reverse:
but the natural superiority of Canada, in point of
soil, over England, rises to greatest excess, when
we consider, that from one end of the province to
the other there is scarcely two acres of sterile
ground to be seen side by side, while England has
its mountains, its moors, its poor downs, and its
barren sands.
OPINIONS
As to what retards the improvement of the Province.
1st. In 24 Reports, lands of non-occupants, see
pages 280, 283, 293, 304,
311, 313, 319, 323, 327,
329, 334, 343, 346, 351,
362, 370, 373, 392, 395,
420, 428, 432, 477, 486.
2d. 19 do. crown, clergy, and other re-
serves, see pages 280, 283,
304, 313, 319, 331, 340,
341, 343, 346, 348, 351,
363, 367, 392, 396, 415,
477, 501.
3d. 14 do. want of people, especially
men of capital and enter-
prise, 289, 293, 309, 317,
624 GENERAL SUMMARY, &C.
327, 335, 344, 367, 382,
409, 411, 420, 454, 492.
4th. In 8 Reports, want of money, 861, 382,
391, 895, 428, 448, 454,
492.
5th. 5 do. shutting out Americans,
380, 396, 412, 425, 430.
6th. 4 do. bad navigation of the St.
Lawrence, and remoteness
from market, 329, 479,
486, 564.
7th. 3 do. bad roads, 382, 409, 454.
8th. 3 do. lands of Indians, 283, 305,
387.
9th. 2 do. want of emigration, and of
a liberal system of emi-
gration, 317, 343.
10th. 2 do. difficulties opposed to emi-
grants, and poverty of be-
ginners, 361, 378.
llth. 1 do. damages sustained by war,
12th. 1 do. want of liberal and indiscri-
minate admission of set-
tlers from the United
States, 396.
13th. 1 do. indiscriminate admission of
do. .481.
14th. 1 do. want of incentive to emu-
lation, 280.
15th. 1 do. defect in the system of
colonization, 280.
GENERAL SUMMARY, &C. 625
16th. In 1 Report, lands in the hands of indivi-
duals unwilling to sell, and
minors who cannot convey,
283.
17th. 1 do. remoteness from market, and
difficulty of communicating
with the lower province,
289.
18th. 1 do. People, who got land, from the
United States, and went
off after selling it, 502.
19th. 1 do. want of spirited and indus-
trious men, 506.
20th. 1 do. want of a bank (now supplied),
486.
21st. 1 do. want of skill in husbandry, 484.
22d. 1 do. bad habits of original settlers,
soldiers, and bad characters,
from the United States, 476.
23d. 1 do. want of rousing up, 384.
END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.
s s
J. B. BARNARD,
»7, Skinnfr Street, London.
1'J
F cGourlay, Robert Fleming.,
5503 Statistical account of
G68 Upper Canada
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