m
THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
LOS ANGELES
THE STORY OF PURTON
THE
STORY OF PURTON
Collection of ^(otes and Hearsay
GATHERED BY
ETHEL M. RICHARDSON
WITH ILLUSTRATIONS
BRISTOL
J. W. ARROWSMITH LTD., n QUAY STREET
LONDON
SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, HAMILTON, KENT & COMPANY LIMITED
1919
$0
THE DEAR MEMORY OF
MERVYN STRONGE RICHARDSON,
CAPTAIN 1ST BATTALION ROYAL WELCH FUSILIERS,
BY HIS MOTHER
871233
\
CONTENTS
Chapter Page
I. EARLY DAYS . . . . . t . II
II. STORIES OF PURTON — THE DE VESCIS, DE
PERITONES, PAYNELLS AND KEYNES . • ' *5
III. FOREST RIGHTS — COLLEGE FARM — THE HYDE
FAMILY ....... 21
IV. REFORMATION CHANGES — INTERESTING EVENTS —
CHURCH ALES — ST. GEORGE'S CULT . . 25
V. THE MASKELYNE FAMILY «... 34
VI. PURTON CHURCH — OLD INDENTURES . . 38
VII. AN ANCIENT RECORD OF PURTON — OLD FAMILIES
— A MYSTERY — THE " ANCREN RIWLE " — OLD
PURTON FOLK -53
VIII. OLD TITHES AND PORTIONS — CRICKET — MILLS —
CHARITIES ...... 62
IX. PURTON HOUSE — THE MANOR HOUSE . '. 69
X. THE OLD VICARAGE — "A FACULTY" — RESTROP
HOUSE ....... 77
XI. WATKINS' CORNER — PRESENT-DAY RESIDENTS —
STOKE — "CURLY TOM" .... 82
XII. PARISH LAWS, 1733 — SEVERE PENALTIES . Q2
XIII. LYDIARD MANOR HOUSE — MR. MACKNIGHT — A
GHOST STORY — THE SMOCK-FROCK — " GRUBB-
ING THE MOOTS " . . . -95
XIV. RED LODGE — MR. SADLER'S RECOLLECTIONS —
OLD COINS— "YOU COME FROM PURTON" . IOI
XV. PURTON FAIR — THE BONFIRE — THE PLAY CLOSE
THE BIND HOUSE .... 107
XVI. BRADEN FOREST — PARISH BOUNDARIES (BY MRS.
STORY-MASKELYNE) ..... 118
XVII. THE " WORD ALE " — GOSPEL OAK . . . 132
XVIII. "THE ANGEL" — REMOUNT DEPOT — WAR WORK —
DEATH OF REV. JOHN VEYSEY — INDUCTION OF
REV. R. B. HARRISON . . X . - . 138
APPENDIX — ROLL OF HONOUR WITH DATES . 143
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
ST. MARY'S CHURCH, PURTON, MANOR HOUSE, AND OLD
COTTAGES ...... Frontispiece
Face page
CHIMNEY-PIECE IN COLLEGE FARM, PURTON . . 21
PURTON, WILTS (Old Print] 47
ST. MARY'S CHURCH, PURTON, BEFORE RESTORATION . 47
OLD MRS. COOK • • 59
" CURLY TOM," DIED AGED 104 59
PURTON HOUSE, WILTSHIRE, 1917, FROM " THE GREEN
WALK" 69
THE GREAT CEDAR, PURTON HOUSE .... 69
THE MANOR HOUSE, PURTON, NORTH FRONT . . 74
THE MANOR HOUSE, PURTON, SOUTH FRONT . . 74
RESTROP HOUSE, PURTON 79
THE HALL, RESTROP HOUSE 79
PURTON HOUSE, 1800 (from a contemporary sketch by
Mrs. Story-Maskelyne) ..... 107
FOREWORD
MY little volume has outgrown my first intention, for as time
went on, and the fact that a story of Purton was being written
became known, I received notes and imormation beyond
what I had been led to expect was possible. The piecing of
it together has helped me to live through the saddest year of my
life, and I trust that what I have collected may interest others,
and perhaps arouse in them some of the enthusiasm and love for
Purton which it has in me. I have quoted freely from several
volumes of Wilts Notes and Queries, and from Mr. Ponting's
delightful pamphlet on the Church, which was written for the
Wilts Archceological Magazine. I have also to acknowledge
help from the Rev. Edward H. Goddard in allowing me to
quote from this magazine, and also for correcting and assisting
me in preparing my MSS. for publication. The volumes I
have chiefly consulted are Britton's Beauties of Wilts, Aubrey's
Wiltshire Collections, The New British Traveller, and an old
volume called Parish Laws, published in 1733, and given to me
by Mr. H. Dash.
I was also fortunate in having had talks with our late
Vicar, and from him received valuable notes and newspaper
cuttings. My thanks are also due to Mrs. Story-Maskelyne,
Miss Maud Prower, Mrs. Atkinson, and Miss Walsh, and to
Canon Livingstone, Canon Manley, the Rev. R. B. Harrison,
Mr. Josiah Haskins, Mr. Wilding and Mr. Frank Kempster.
Mr. Lee Osborn assisted me in the Clarendon chapter ;
and I mast not conclude without my husband's name, who
gave me much sympathy and encouragement in my task.
E. M. R.
March zjth, 1917.
The Story of Purton
CHAPTER I
0
EARLY DAYS
WHICHEVER way one looks from Purton, the eye is charmed
by the view. To the north there is the wide prospect of gently-
undulating hills, and broad meadows richly wooded, and
Cricklade Church a bold landmark in the middle distance.
On the other sides there lies a typically English rural country-
side, curiously winding roads and green lanes, as though there
had been in the old days plenty of time, and no need to hurry
to one's destination.
There are many quaint houses jutting in and out, without
any order or scheme, and in consequence a prospect so restful
and homelike. We cross the church field, and find a picture
of rare historical and archaeological interest in the group
of buildings before us.
First comes the Great Barn, then the Manor House, and
beyond the magnificent structure of our glorious Church,
with its western tower and central spire.
This fine and stately building stands with its surrounding
graveyard thickly studded by the resting-places of those
villagers who, having accomplished their "lifelong task of
living," have gone for ever from the scene of their labours.
Parish churches with a western tower and centra] spire
are very rare. Three only exist in England to-day, one at
Wanborough and one at Ormskirk, both interesting churches,
but the writer can testify to the greater beauty and symmetry
of the Purton edifice.
In the dim and distant past the great Forest of Braden is
supposed to have covered almost the whole of the northern
division of the county ; but of those dense woods, once the
ii
THE STORY OF PURTON
home of wolves and other wild animals, scarcely a vestige
remains, and the ancient spelling is only perpetuated in
Bradenstoke Abbey — this is a mediaeval building which
stands on the edge of that long sweep of hills once the
natural south-western boundary of the forest — and in Braden
Pond, a large sheet of water near the village of Minety. *
The name of Purton, which is of Saxon origin, and signifies
" The pear-tree enclosure," is spelt in a variety of ways in
the old deeds which mark the passing of the ;years — Peritone,
Periton, Pureton, Puriton, Puryton, Pirton, and even Purrton,
but the old Peritone is certainly the prettier and more
distinctive name, as Porton and a Pirton occasionally cause
trouble to the Post Office authorities, especially when the
address on a letter is indistinctly written.
The oldest thing that human hands have made at Purton
is Ringsbury Camp. It has been called a Roman Camp,
but is much older, as its shape at once forbids this theory. a
No Roman general ever encamped his troops except in a
regular rectangular camp. Also it is away from the great
lines of roads which the Romans made between great centres
such as Corinium (Cirencester) and Aquae Solis (Bath).
It is doubtless of the same age as the camps on the Downs.
It is likely that these camps were places of refuge for a time of
danger, each for its own tribe or neighbourhood.
The great camp at Avebury probably dates from 1500 to
2000 B.C., at the end of the Neolithic and beginning of the
Bronze Age (the recent excavations go to prove this), and
Avebury was no doubt an " ancient monument " when Caesar
came to Britain. Probably aU the stone circles were connected
with worship or observation of the heavenly bodies. In the
light of present-day history it is instructive to note that we are
told by no less an authority than Caesar that " the Germans
(those beyond the Rhine) had no gods or sacrifices but what
they could see, the Sun, Moon, and Fire, and such is natural
if all revelation of religion were lost." Anyhow, at Ringsbury
at various times Roman coins, and once a millstone, have
been unearthed.
During the sixth century Wiltshire experienced the full
1 Wilts Notes and Queries. * Mr. MacKnight.
12
THE STORY OF PURTON
force of the Saxon invasion, and the country round Purton
was the scene of many desperate engagements.
Towards the close of the seventh century the Christian
King Cedwalla, who ruled the West Saxons, laid the foundation
of the Abbey of Malmesbury, and amongst the earliest grants
made to that religious house1 was one bestowing thirty-five
hides in Purton, comprising the chief Manor and the Rectory.
Under the heading of Purton are the words : " Terra est XXXV
hyd de orientali parte silvae quae dicitur Bradon Hac dedit
Chedwalla rex, Aldhelmo Abbati."
There is another grant of land in Purton made by Egeferth,
the Mercian King, A.D. 796, and subscribed to by a king of the
West Saxons, Beorhtrich by name. As it states that the Mercian
King Egeferth makes it, having been requested to do so by
Beorhtrich, King of the West Saxons, it seems probable that
Wessex had become tributary to Mercia. But a darker hour
was yet in store. The Danes under Guthrum " burst into the
territory of Wilsaetas," took the royal town of Chippenham,
and from thence harried the surrounding country.
In 905 they " put to military execution all Brithendune as
far as Bradenstoke," and seized, either in Braden or thereabouts,
all they could lay their hands on. Year after year the awful
spectacle was repeated, and the ceaseless series of invasions in
which Wiltshire played so prominent a part continued until
the Conqueror's strong hand gave the stricken country peace
at last. a
Mr. Mac Knight (once of Purton and Lydiard Millicent, and
of whom more anon) wrote in 1886 as follows : —
" Pavenhill I consider more interesting than Ringsbury.
Canon Prower told me that it was a Danish encampment, and
that his father had received that tradition. This would carry
it (tradition) back more than 120 years, and most likely it came
down regularly from generation to generation to his time from the
fact itself. It is certain that the hill is escarped in two places,
and this might have been done as a temporary defence, not as
a permanent military station. Then just below it you have
' Battle Lake/ which name would connect that strong position
with some engagement, and, if the tradition of ' Danish encamp-
ment ' be true, it would be between the Danes and Saxons.
1 See Chapter xvi. * Wilts Notes and Queries.
13
THE STORY OF PURTON
Now Alfred defeated Gothrum 878, and according to William
of Malmesbury required him to be baptised, standing as his
sponsor, and then gave him East Anglia as a kingdom tributary
to himself, and the Saxon Chronicle says that in 879 this army
went to Cirencester from Chippenham (near which he had
been conquered), and stayed a year there before moving
eastward. In that march they would pass through Purton to
avoid Orwolder (Braden Forest), and the engagement at
' Battle Lake ' (then undoubtedly undrained) might then have
taken place. At least you have the tradition of a Danish
encampment, and a battlefield below it, and the historic fact
of the defeat of Gothrum at Eddington, and the march of the
Danish army (879) from Chippenham to Cirencester. Put all
these things together, and do your best to give body to the
old tradition and re-people the old places. Canon Prower was
strong in his belief that the Danes were at Pavenhill, and,
if so, it must have been about that time, A.D. 879." *
From this account it would appear that Battle Lake lay
in the low-lying land immediately below the above-mentioned
" strong position," and the quaint name of Pond's Gutter which
is given to a stream which flows to-day beneath the road in
that direction may possibly be derived from its waters having
in those old days helped to feed Battle Lake.
1 Letter to Mr. J. H. Sadler.
CHAPTER II
STORIES OF PURTON — THE DE VESCIS, DE PERITONES,
PAYNELLS AND KEYNES
" BISHOP ALDHELM, the former landlord of Purton, was no
ordinary man. Amongst other miracles wrought by him, was
the lengthening of a beam of wood by virtue of his prayers.
Then it is asserted that the ruins of a church built by him,
though open to the skies, were never wet with rain during the
worst weather. His clothes also were not of the human cut, for
when Aldhelm on one occasion was at Rome one of his garments
remained for a time self-suspended in mid-air, after the fashion,
it is to be presumed, of Mahomed's coffin. But whether or not
Aldhelm had the gift of performing miracles or not, it is quite
certain he was no ordinary man. Martineau in his Church
History thus refers to him : —
" ' Aldhelm was one of the earliest of English poets, and
made his art subservient to the higher office of instructing
the people in the knowledge of the Gospel. Having composed
tales and ballads in the Saxon tongue on subjects likely to be
of popular interest, he used to station himself on a bridge,
or at the junction of cross roads, 1 and there sing his poems to
the harp, till he had collected an audience, then, having charmed
their ears with music, he took occasion to give them spiritual
instruction for their souls. Aldhelm, moreover, had an extensive
knowledge of the Greek and Latin tongues, and the Canon of
Roman law. For this he was in a great measure indebted to the
School of Hadrian at Canterbury, though he had in earlier life
been a pupil of a learned Scottish monk. He was also the first
scholar who was distinguished for composition of Latin prose and
verse, and though his poetical performances in that language
are not remarkable for elegance, they are by no means con-
temptible, when we consider the barbarism of the preceding
age, and the difficulties with which the student had to
contend.' " 2
1 Possibly by Mrs. Walsh's Great Barn.
2 Mr. Veysey's Notes.
15
THE STORY OF PURTON
The Domesday record of Purton runs thus : —
" The same Church (St. Mary's of Malmesbury) holds Piritone.
It was assessed in the time of Edward the Confessor at 35 hides.
Here are 24 ploughlands. Twenty-one hides and a half are
in demesne, where are 2 ploughlands, and 5 servants. 20
villagers, 12 borderers, and 13 cottagers occupy 19 ploughlands.
The Mill pays 53. Here are 60 acres of meadow. The wood
is 3 miles square. A burgage in Crichelade, belonging to this
Manor pays 6 pence. It was, and is worth 16 pounds."
Edward de Saresbury held property in Purton (temp. King
Stephen) . His holding passed by marriage to the Bohuns, Earls
of Hereford. As before mentioned, the name of Purton means
" The pear-tree enclosure," and this good old Saxon name
was borne by the once all-powerful family of de Peritone,
Adam de Peritone owning a large portion of North Wilts.
He was heir to Odred (falconer to King Henry 1 1.), who had
married a sister of Sir Thomas de Sampford.
Adam's son was Thomas de Peritone, who, as will be seen
later in our story, made a grant of tithes in the early part of the
thirteenth century, and he was a person of some piety, for he
built a private chapel for his own use, promising that the church
should lose nothing thereby. Thomas apparently left no son
to succeed to his inheritance, but three grand-daughters,
co-heiresses. First comes Isabel, who married William de
Vesci, of whom we read that he was " summoned to Parliament
in 1295, and was one of the competitors for the Crown of
Scotland temp. Edward I." l He was also mentioned as
" Justice in Eyre for all the Royal Forests beyond Trent, and
one of the Justices Itinerant touching the pleas of the Forest,
Governour of Scarborough Castle, and Lord Justice of Ireland,
where he was Lord of Kildare."
One pictures his coming to Purton, and his meeting with
Isabel de Peritone, an heiress of no small standing, and then
perchance the happy wedding in the fine old church. Alas ! the
register does not go back so far, but it is more than likely
that it took place here, in the bride's native village, and
doubtless was a great day for Purton and its inhabitants.
Isabel's husband was a son of William de Vesci, and traced
his descent far beyond the Norman Conquest to the founder
1 Burke' s Peerage, 1837, p. 283.
16
THE STORY OF PURTON
of the House of Blois in Normandy. He had an elder brother
John, who was summoned to Parliament as Baron de Vesci
Dec. 24th, 1264, and when he died William succeeded to his
honours and estates.
Thomas de Vesci in his turn followed as the only remaining
brother to carry on the line.
Their father William had taken many precautions that a
suitable wife should be found for the heir to his estates. The
taste of the principals was not consulted, as was the custom
in those days, and the record is strangely unlike the manners
of to-day, when the young manage their own affairs according
to their inclinations.
In the Calendar of Patent Rolls, July 26th, 1253, we find
on record that in case John the elder brother should fail to marry
" one of the daughters of the lord of Chambre (de Camera),
or of the vicomte of Aosta (Augustensis), as the queen and the
said Peter shall provide," that William is to be the husband of
one of the said ladies, but if in his turn William should fail to
fill the position by dying too soon " the said Peter de Sabandia
or his assign shall have the marriage of the next heir, saving
to the King the wardship of the lands " of the younger William,
" during the minority of his heirs."
His father went to France with the King in 1253, for we
find his name with others who had " protection ... for so
long as they are in his service in those parts with the King."
The oath which the father William took was a very serious
and solemn affair. It was taken in the King's presence at
Portsmouth, "on the day of St. Mary Magdalen, 37 Hen. III.,"
and it was to be enforced by " four good men selected by William,
and four good men selected by the counsel of the Queen and
Peter de Sabandia," and there was to be a sum of money assigned
when the marriage should take place.
To make assurance doubly sure, William bound himself
" on his fealty in the King's hand," and Peter swore a similar
oath " to procure performance thereof," and further William
" laid himself under the royal and ecclesiastical jurisdiction "
to fulfil his covenant " under pain of 1,000 marks," and of the
Archbishop of Canterbury's ecclesiastical censure. Amongst
many witnesses to this were the Earl of Warwick, John de
Grey, etc.
THE STORY OF PURTON
Peter de Sabandia, in 1254, got the wardship of the " lands
ana heirs of William de Vesci, together with the marriage of
the heirs, the advowsons of the Churches, liberties and all things
belonging to the wardship, so that he marry the heirs without
disparagement."
These lands seem to have been of a very large extent,
including " demesnes, homages, rents, villeinages, woods,
meadows, pastures and other issues," and included " the Castle
and Manor of Alnewyk."
In a dispute between Henry III. and Montfort, Earl of
Leicester, in 1264, it appears William de Vesci and his elder
brother John joined Leicester against the King, and this
incurred the royal displeasure, for we read that "Protection
until Michaelmas " was given to William de Vesci " for the Manor
of Kattorp, Co. Lincoln, and the men of that Manor, which has
been taken into the King's hands, because he is against the
King with John de Vesci his brother in the present disturbance
of the realm."1
There is the old Scots saying that " the best laid schemes of
mice and men gang aft agley," and so it seems to have been
with regard to William de Vesci's marriage, as neither a lady
of Chambre nor of Aosta, but as already stated Isabel de
Peritone, was the bride selected when the time came.
Unhappily poor Isabel failed to provide the wished-for heir,
not only to her own broad acres, but to those of her husband,
including the Barony of de Vesci, which at his brother John's
death came to him in 1289.
At William's death, therefore, without lawful male issue,
Gilbert de Aton was declared his heir, and after him the Barony
passed through many vicissitudes and changes, two hundred
years later being vested in Henry de Vesci (1503), whose
dwelling-place is given as " our lady besides the market
Cambridge." 3
In an Indenture of a sale to the Rajah of Sarawak on
March 6th, 1893, now among the Purton House deeds, we
find that twenty-seven acres of land, including Bark Field and
the present gate-lodge, were sold by the Earl of Shaftesbury
1 Calendar of Patent Rolls, 1258-66.
* His daughter Isabel married Gilbert de Aton. See Burke's Peerage.
8 Wills proved in the Prerogative Court of Canterbury.
18
THE STORY OF PURTON
and the Viscount de Vesci. This seems to suggest that
though six hundred years or more had rolled by, a de Vesci
still held a tiny share of the broad lands his family had
obtained through the marriage with Isabel de Peritone.
Through her great-great-grandmother, the Honourable
Elizabeth Vesey, sister of the first Viscount de Vesci, the
writer likes to think of a slender link with bygone days in
Purton, now happily strengthened by her husband's possession
of the old Bark Field.
Another sister of Isabel married a Keynes, a name familiar
in several neighbouring villages, and the youngest, Katherine
de Peritone, married John Paynell, and left descendants.
Of these Paynells and Keynes we find some curious records
in Edward I.'s day, and later Katherine Paynell owning " a
capital messuage, etc., at Puryton," also 64 acres of arable,
10 of meadow, her rent 415., " works of four customers, pasture
and pleas, etc., held of Robert de Keynes by service of rendering
2s. yearly at Feasts of St. Andrew, and St. Peter ad Vincula.
Philip Paynell, her son, aged 25 and more is her next heir."
This Philip had to " seek his inheritance," and in a writ
to prove it, which lay " as well in the King's hand, as in the
wardship of Katherine Paynell, his mother, in the nineteenth
Edward I.," we read as follows : " Jn de Cantebe says year of
that the said Philip was born at Pyriton in hundred of
Staple, on the day of the Assumption, about the ist hour,
53 Henry III., and was baptized in the Baptistry of St. Mary's
Church Pyriton, by Richard, * then vicar, on the morrow, at
the morning hour (hora matutina).
" Philip Basset, uncle of the sd. Philip's Mother, who was
then at his manor of La Fasterne, * being asked to be godfather,
sent his friends (familiares) Hugh de Courteney and Jn de
Pyriton to lift him from the font, and give him the name of sd.
Philip Basset, and Agnes, then the wife of Roger de Writel,
held him, and was his godmother. He is certain of the time,
for one Jn. le Frie of Pyriton, married one Emma at Hockday,
before the sd. Philip's birth, and the witness met him leading
his wife, with a great company, and struck one Wm.
Champeneys, who was very abusive, heavily on the head
with a staff, for which he was heavily amerced in the hundred
1 Ricardius de Bristolia. * Now Vasterne Manor.
19
THE STORY OF PURTON
(court) of Worth, and made pecuniary amends." (Writ made
at Malmesbury as " proof of age " on Sunday, Feast of Saint
Swithin, 19 Edward I.)
One of the witnesses " Philip de Forde agrees," adding " that
the aforesaid Vicar who baptized the said Philip was born at
Cirencester." x
Eleanor Keynes owned 10 marks rent in Purton and
Chelworth in Edward III.'s reign.
Later, one John Sothill in Henry VI I. 's day, held the
" Manor of Pereton " from the Abbot of Malmesbury, and a sad
description of his heir, George, runs thus, " George Sothill,
aged 30 and more, a natural idiot from his birth," the manor
being valued at £10. On account of his infirmity the King
held the " natural fool and idiot's " manor, and his sisters were
named his heirs, on his death at the early age of 38 years.
In an Inquisition quoted in the Wilts Archceological Magazine
we find references to a De Peritone, a Walrond, and a Keynes
as follows : —
Richard de Peryton made a grant of a knight's fee and
advowson in Wodbergh to Thomas de Beauchamp, Earl of
Warwick, in 1370.
William Walrond " held in his demesne as of fee, two
carucates of land in Peunhull, 2 from Malmesbury Abbey by rent
of 153. yearly, and a suit of court twice a year at the Manor of
Puryton worth 403. a year clear " in 1369.
John de Keynes in 1376 " held in his demesne, as of fee,
in the vill of Puryton the Manor of Keynes from the Abbot of
Malmesbury, by what services the jurors do not know. It is
worth 10 marks yearly clear."
1 c. Edw. I., File 60(5) Cal. Mg., Vol. ii., No. 819.
« Pavenhill.
20
CHIMNEY-PIECE IX COLLEGE EARM, PURTON.
CHIMNEY-PIECE IX COLLEGE EARM, PURTON.
CHAPTER III
FOREST RIGHTS — COLLEGE FARM — THE HYDE FAMILY
BRITTON the antiquary tells us that " the Parish of Purton is
very extensive, and comprises a considerable part of the Forest
of Braden," which, he adds, " is now almost destitute of wood,
and much of it is enclosed and cultivated. It is termed by old
writers Brithendune or Bredon Wood. From the Roll of Peram-
bulations of Forests, it appears that in the I2th of Henry III.
Brayden, then called an ancient forest, was the property of
Thomas de Sampford. In the 28th of Edward I. it belonged
to the family of Peverell. In the 45th of Edward III. Hugh de le
Spencer bought Peverell's Woods of Sir John Wroxhall, and
Spencer, being attainted of treason, his possessions were forfeited
to the Crown. Braden Forest was then given to the King's
fourth son, Edmund de Langley, Duke of York. Among the
Lansdowne manuscripts in the British Museum is a copy of
a warrant to Richard, Earl of Cambridge, dated the 8th of
Richard II., authorising him to fell timber in Braden Forest.
This nobleman, who was the second son of the Duke of
York, was in 1415 beheaded for a conspiracy against his cousin,
Henry V., and Braden again reverted to the Crown.
" In the fifth year of Charles I. the Forest of Braden was
disafforested, when 100 acres of it were allotted to the poor of
Cricklade, 150 acres to the free holders of the inner boundary
of the said Forest, 25 acres to the poor of The Leigh in the Parish
of Ashton Keynes, and 25 acres to the poor of Purton Stoke ;
all the aforesaid parties having had right of common in the
Forest, and having put in their claims to a compensation for
the loss of their rights. *
" The farmers who occupied the lands after the disafforesta-
tion claimed exemption from poor rates on account of the grant
of lands out of the Forest to the poor, but their claim was set
aside, and they have paid poor rates for many years."
Some of the grants connected with Braden Forest are
1 See Chapter viii.
21
THE STORY OF PURTON
peculiar, i.e. by gift of Henry IV. the Abbey of Cirencester
was entitled to four does a year from Braden Forest. The
Prior of the Hospital of St. John the Baptist at Wootton Bassett
(and subsequently the Vicar) enjoyed the right to cut trees
to build his house, and to hunt with bow and hound without
hindrance from gamekeepers in Braden Forest. Some lands
in Purton, probably part of Braden in 1472, maintained a
chantry in Ramsbury Church. The first Earl of Clarendon,
Edward Hyde, was not born in Purton, but his father, Henry
Hyde, lived in what is now the College Farm, at present occupied
by Mr. and Mrs. C. J. lies, under Worcester College, Oxford.
On a chimney-piece in one of the rooms there is a shield of
arms of the Earl's grandmother, one of the Sibell family, viz.
a tiger looking backwards in a mirror. Lord Clarendon tells
us that in his seventeenth year, " being seized with an illness at
the Middle Temple, his friends much feared a consumption, so
his uncle (Sir Nicholas Hyde, of Marlborough, Lord Chief
Justice) thought fit to send him into the Country to Pirton in
North Wiltshire, whither his Father had removed himself
from Dinton" (where the Chancellor was born 1608), "choosing
rather to live upon his own land, the which he had purchased
many years before, and to rent Dinton, which was but a lease
for lives to a tenant." While living in this house at Purton
he relates a strange coincidence, for he tells us that " whilst
he was reading to his Father in Camden's Annals in Latin,
the particular passage relating to a certain John Felton who
had fixed the Pope's Bull against the Bishop of London's
Palace gate, a person of the neighbourhood knocked at the
door, and told them that a post had just gone through the
village to Charlton, the Earl of Berkshire's, to inform the Earl
that the Duke of Buckingham was killed the day before by
another John Felton"
His two elder brothers dying, the Chancellor succeeded
to the property, having apparently recovered his health in
the salubrious air of Purton.
He married firstly Anne, daughter of Sir John Ayliffe, of
Grittenham, in the adjoining parish of Brinkworth.
She died of smallpox in the first year of marriage, 2nd July,
1632, aged 20. Mr. Hyde was elected member for Wootton
Bassett and Shaftesbury, but chose the former.
22
THE STORY OF PURTON
He then married as his second wife a daughter of Sir
Thomas Aylesbury. The " Short Parliament " coming to an
end, he was re-elected for Saltash, and represented that con-
stituency in the celebrated " Long Parliament." His cautious
disposition gradually weaned him from the popular side, and
he became a supporter of the King, who in return for this
knighted him, and created him Chancellor of the Exchequer. He
travelled on the Continent with the King, acting as his adviser
and secretary, and later on was appointed to draw up the
famous Declaration of Breda.
In 1660 he was raised to the Peerage as Earl of Clarendon.
He was in favour of a policy embracing the supremacy of the
Anglican Church, and earned by his severe policy the hatred
of the Puritan party. He opposed the Dutch War, which was
popular in the country, and busied himself in raising large sums
of money for the Crown. Amongst other causes of his un-
popularity was the idea that he favoured the King's marriage
with Katherine of Braganza, knowing that she was unlikely to
have children, and so to make practically certain that his
daughter Anne, who had secretly married the King's brother,
James, Duke of York, should some day be Queen of England.
Anne Hyde had gone to Court at the age of 22 as maid of honour
to a sister of the King. She at once captivated James's fancy, but
wisely insisted on a regular marriage. She eventually became the
mother of eight children, two of whom, Mary and Anne, were
in turn Queens of England. When the story of the marriage
was known, Clarendon became the object of much popular
abuse, and he was much alarmed, for he then turned on
Anne, laying the blame at her door. She was no doubt
given to much extravagance, and was of a proud and arrogant
disposition. Later on she joined the Roman Catholic Church,
and dying in 1671, was buried in Westminster Abbey. It
has been said that Anne was born at College Farm, but such
was not the case, though much of her childhood was probably
spent there.
But darker days were in store for Clarendon. The House of
Commons in 1667 impeached him for treason, and Charles
warned him to expect no protection or help from him. He
then left these shores for the South of France, where he wrote
his noted books, The History of the Great Rebellion, and his
23
THE STORY OF PURTON
Autobiography. Dying there in 1674, his remains were brought
home to Westminster Abbey, where they lie in the vault with
others of his family at the foot of the steps leading to
Henry VII. 's Chapel.
Everyone who goes to London has seen Hyde Park, but
few who enjoy its sylvan beauties realise that this princely
gift was bestowed upon London by this very Lord Clarendon,
in acknowledgment of which he received a gilt key and the
right to enter the Park at any time he chose. Surely we
Purton folk may feel (even though the best part of three centuries
has rolled away since the gift was made) a reflected glory and
satisfaction that a Purton man was able to offer and bestow
upon the nation so great a boon while time shall run. The
great parks are truly called the " lungs of London," for the
wonderfully healthy record of that great city is in no small
measure attributable to these open spaces, and the millions who
enjoy Hyde Park as each year passes might at least give a
kindly thought to the Purton Chancellor who did so much for
them, their ancestors and descendants.
There is no doubt that the wall which encircles College Farm
is of an ancient date, and must have stood there long before
the road which runs round it was made. This is obvious from
the fact that a curve begins from where the Post Office stands,
and the straight road continues its line just beyond where the
wall turns, so it is evident that the road only deflected to avoid
the wall already there".
The postern gate which breaks the wall has a pretty arch,
and probably dates from about 1680, but may be older.
24
CHAPTER IV
REFORMATION CHANGES — INTERESTING EVENTS — CHURCH ALES—
ST. GEORGE'S CULT
" AT the close of the sixteenth century x the so-called Reforma-
tion was proceeding in a resolute, if not a relentless manner.
The very principles of our religion were being slighted and
impugned, the outward forms so venerated by generations in
the past were treated with the utmost contempt, the stately
ceremonial was regarded as slavish idolatry, and even the
surplice was flung aside as superstitious. A spirit of destruction
passed over the land, the churches were desecrated, and the
materials of the most exquisite shrines were removed, and sold
for what they would fetch."
The following is an extract from a document of the time of
Edward VI., dealing with the spoliation of Purton Church : —
" Interrogatories to be mynystered on the part of Sir
Edmund Bryddges Knight.
" First, whether Browne and Jaakes, servantes unto Benet
Joy, dyd stele and convey awey the Image of Seynt George
ouzt of Puryton Church, and caryed the same to the Mancion
house of Joys or no.
" Item, whether one of the Church wardens commanded
them soo to doo, or by whose commande they so did, and who
byd them put hit into the wole house of Joys', and for what
intent the same was caryd away more than the other images.
" Item whether Browne and Jakes did confesse the takying
away the said image, and whether they toke the same ageyn
oultzt of the woll house and caryd hyt to the Church ageyn,
or who caryd the same image to the Church.
" Item, whoo commanded them to bring hit to Church and
what was the cause, or did they bring hyt of their owne free
will.
" Item. Whether the seid Sir Edmund Bryges did convey
away his trees owzt of Joys' ferme grounde with as much spede
1 Wilts Arch. Mag., vol. xxxiii., p. 145, etc.
25
THE STORY OF PURTON
as he could gett caryage, or whether he sufferyd them to lye
of purpose to destroy Joys' grasse.
" Item. Whether the bearward to Sir Edmund Bryges be
a natural foole, or folishe or noo."
Certain acres in Purton were set apart for the maintenance
of church lights, and at the Buthaye (which once stood behind
the cottage on Mrs. Walsh's property, now occupied by Mr.
Davis the verger) was brewed " Seynt George's ale," the proceeds
of the sale of which were dedicated to the use of St. George and
his priest. The old cottage, which was pulled down in 1901,
showed an absence of windows in front upstairs, the inside was
more interesting. In the principal living room beside the
hearth was a four-foot-square alcove with an opening into a
dark chamber above. In this room there was no window
or any approach except through this alcove. The inference
we draw is that it was as it remained since Benedict Joy
answered the above interrogatories.
On the subject of the disputes between Lord Chandos and
the Pulleys, and also of the various schemes employed to raise
funds necessary for the Church's expenses, the writer gratefully
acknowledges the following most interesting notes written for
this volume by Mrs. Story-Maskelyne : —
Purton in the days of Queen Elizabeth was in the throes
of supremely interesting events, which were of the greatest
importance to its inhabitants, events giving rise to questions
relating to the religion of the land and to the common rights of
the people. In both questions the Brydges family were
concerned and played a prominent part.
Sir J. Brydges had been Groom of the Bedchamber to
King Henry VIII. , and was created Baron Chandos by Queen
Mary for his share in suppressing Wyatt's rebellion. He had
acquired the monastic lands at Purton and elsewhere, too,
after the Dissolution of the Monasteries.
These monastic suppressions were the cause of much bitter
feeling, which accompanied the profound religious changes all
over the country during the reigns of Henry VIII., Edward VI.,
Mary and Elizabeth, one result being that the lease of the
Manor and Rectory of Purton, given in 1515 by the Abbot of
Malmesbury, in anticipation of coming troubles, to R. Pulley,
26
THE STORY OF PURTON
his wife, and four young children in survivorship, was after
the Dissolution held by Lord Chandos, although, as the rent
was reserved, it was many years before he came into full
possession. The Manor rented at £g i6s. od., the Rectory at
£12, and the Tithes 405. were paid yearly at the Feasts of
Lady Day and Michaelmas, from which we may presume that
the grand old tithe barn was by that time no longer filled, as of
old, with the tithe in kind, which used to cover its spacious floors
in the days of the Abbot of Malmesbury, 405. being paid instead.
In the days when the families of R. Pulley and J. Brydges
both considered themselves lawfully entitled to possession
of the former Abbey lands it was inevitable that disputes
should arise.
In Edward VI. 's time a curious case in point arose when
the tenure of Isabel, daughter of R. Pulley, and now wife of
Bennet Joy, after peaceable enjoyment of the Manor and Rectory
for many years, was called in question and her house forcibly
entered by the servants of Sir E. Brydges. For this and other
serious indictments she brought an action against him, accusing
him of molestation and persecution of many kinds, amongst
others the following : " They did breke and enter into the duff
house and killed all the douves, and distroyed the duff house."
They destroyed the well with refuse, and prevented the Pulleys
from collecting " the 20 loodes of wood they were entitled to
' get in Braden.' " It was also said that " they entered the
Court with a hand gun and dyd shote and kyll the hennes and
capons, and dayly shoteth his doves and pultry ... so
that his servants went in terror of their lives." The Brydges
family seem to have kept a bear, for one of the accusations
brought against him was that " his beareward and his servants
did course a Beare upon the ground called ' Wyndmill Hill ' *
at the time when the cows were in calf thus causing much loss."
Last, but not least, was the accusation of the forcible entry
into the " house of Joys."
. The event which led to this forcible entry into Joys'
house was preceded by an order from the King for removing
" all images and Idolls from the Church of Puryton," when
G. Messenger, one of the Wardens of the Parish Church,
1 Now part of the park at Purton House.
27
THE STORY OF PURTON
who had been appointed by the King's Visitor, " repeired to
the Church (on the 2Qth Jan., 1547-48) with diverse of his
neighbours and there pulled down all Images and Idolls within
the said Church, according to the Commandment . . . and
as it became true subjects to doe, which after they soe did, they
did shutt and put all the same images in a corner of the Church,
appointing them to be sold, and the money thereof coming
to be put into the Poor's men's box, to such uses as the Visitor
appointed, then the Churchwarden and others departed."
Whereupon Isabel was overheard by her servants, saying that
"much lyking the image (of St. George) wished she had the
same at home in her house," and " that it was a pity to deface
the same." Her servants then " stole the Image from the
Church and carried it to the Wool house belonging to the
Mansion." Next came the servants of Sir E. Brydges, " who
broke upon the door with a pyked staff in search of the stolen
Image which they took forth and carried to the Church ageyn."
Transactions such as the above must have been deeply
resented by parishioners still belonging to the older faith, as
were the family of R. Pulley, to which belonged both Isabel
and her niece Jane, wife of George Maskelyne, who, when an
old woman after a widowhood of over sixteen years, made her
last will. Her memory would carry her back over three-fourths
of a century of profound changes. She was almost to a year
the contemporary of her sovereign lady Queen Elizabeth.
Reared in the older faith, she had seen the beautiful Church of
Purton in the full glory of the ancient rite, and the vain longing
for one at least of its accessories found a pitiful expression in
a clause thus : —
"To the Bells of Pyrton XX's and the increase of 403.
towards the yearly maintenance of one to play uppon the
organs in the parish Church of Pyrton aforesaid, whensoever
the parishioners there shall and will provide and hire one to
play uppon the same." 1 She further desired in her will to be
buried near her grandfather Pulley, the conventual lessee of
the church lands of Malmesbury Abbey, in the chancel of the
Church. Those days were indeed a contrast to what Isabel
Joy must have remembered, when as a little child the old
Abbot of Malmesbury and the monks accompanying him
1 A. S.-M.
28
THE STORY OF PURTON
came to the house of her father in Purton to receive their dues
at the court holden on the Manor, when, as we find recorded
by one of the former monks of Malmesbury, he saw " Isabel
then a young gyrle of ii or iii years of age, playing up and down
in her father's house," whom the then Abbot did much county-
nance and did play withal " and " would jest withal and call yt
wife." (Star-Chamber Proceedings, W. & M., vol. xxxiii., p. 145
et seq.)
With the passing of those days passed also the remembrance
of very much else, such as the uses for which the church lands
had originally been given, and it came to be supposed that
" certain lands which had been given to superstitious uses, and
so employed in the reign of King Henrie 8th, had been withheld
and consealed from her Highness Queen Elizabeth." To clear
up these points a commission, consisting of Sir W. Brydges
and others, was appointed in 1592 (the thirty-fourth year
of Queen Elizabeth's reign). Amongst the witnesses called,
R. Plover, an old man aged 86, said that he " had known all
the parcels of land in question all his life ; and that these church
lands were at one time held by one Th. Shurmer who did main-
tain the lights such as the Trinity light and other tapers in the
Church on holy days and Festmatt days . . . and that he
used to light and put them out." Also that " the Churchwardens
had the letting of the church lands in respect of their office " ;
that " the Buthies belonged to the maintenance of the Image
of St. George and of his Priest, who did long time agone use to
praie for the Brethren and Sisters of St. George. The two
Ale Stewards were yearly chosen by the parishioners and
were called St. George's Ale Stewards, and they did brew an
ale called St. George's Ale . . . and they had the use of
the ground called the Butheys and did make therin St. George's
Buttes . . . then as now. The increase of their ale and rent
of the Butheys did maintain St. George and his Priest . . .
till the Image and his Priest were abolished and the lights taken
out of the Church," after which " the Churchwardens did
enter and take to all the said lands, and employed the same
to the use of the Parish Church of Pirton." The church lands
which are here alluded to, and which had belonged to the Church
" tyme whereof no memory of man runneth belonging," were
in 1577 and 1582 let by the Churchwardens to George Maskelyne
29
THE STORY OF PURTON
and his heir, his son Edmund being in possession of the leases
at the time of the " Depositions." They were then said to
be:—
i acre lying in Woodward Crofte
one £ acre in the Hourne l
one \ acre lyeth in Hilly Meade
one \ acre lieth in Barfield
one | acre lieth at the Downe end.
one acre and half at Clardon
half an acre lieth at Shilfinche
and one parcel or parocke lyeth in Restrop *
and also one parcel of land called the Buthies.
It may be of interest to append the list of lands leased
to George Maskelyne in 1577 and 1582, as throwing light on
where these church lands were.
Leased to George Maskelyne his son and daughter for life,
4 acres arable land and meadow lying dispersed in the Fields
and Meadows of Purton called the church lands belonging^to
the use of the Parish Church of Pirton.
1577. 20 Elizabeth. 1582. 24 Elizabeth.
acres. acres.
i. 2. o. lieth on the South = i| in Clardon.
end of Clardon shooting on
Holbrook Way.
o. 2. o. at the South end = \ at the Downe End.
of the Downe.
o. 2. o. in Barfield shooting = \ in Barfield.
upon Smith Mead.
0. 2. o. upon Bremhill = J in Hilly Land,
shooting East and West.
1. o. o. upon Shilfinch f| in Shilfmch.
shooting upon HolliewelTs |j above Hollie well.
Hamme.
o. 2. o. in the Pry in a = i in Woodwards Croft
parcel of mead called Dry- (arable). \ in the
acres. Hurne (mead), (called
the Lampland by
R. Plover).
1 Called by R. Plover " The Lampacre."
* Spoken of elsewhere as "Hollie Well."
THE STORY OF PURTON
Gostie Mead is called Lampacre in old deeds, and paid
sixteen pence for a light in Purton Church. Goss is the Wiltshire
name for Restharrow. Gostie Mead was part of Ware's " Old
Lands " in Bentham, sold to Edmund Maskelyne.
Most of these church lands can still be made out on the
old Parish Map of Purton, dated 1744.
It may be well here to give some explanation of the Church
Lights and Church Ales, which are constantly referred to in
Churchwardens' Accounts in pre-Reformation days.
From the accounts of St. Edmund's at Sarum, during the
yeais 1443 to 1702, we get the names by which many such
Church Lights were known, e.g. The Trinity Light, The Wife's
Light, Maiden's Light, Servant's Light, Rood Lights, and
many Saints' Lights. The Rood Light was supported by the
devotion of the people ; others were supported by collections
made in Church or by Guilds and Brotherhoods. " The hire
of XXth Shepe which J. Ludlow did give to the maynteyning
of St. Sebastians Light " brought in twelve shillings.
" The stewards of each light received a certain sum as
• Stock ' for maintaining their light and promoting the success
of their festival, and, after deducting the expenses incurred
from what they had collected and retaining ' Stock ' for next
year, the balance or ' Increase ' * was brought to be hallowed
and given to the Churchwardens for Church Works."
Candles for the year made from wax purchased for the
purpose were brought out to be hallowed at Candlemas
(Feb. ist).
Many ancient records exist of fresh fire drawn from flint
used to make Holy Fire on Easter Eve, all lights being
first quenched.
The Herse Lights spoken of as in use in Purton Church were
probably those " burnt beside dead bodies in Church."
Church Ales (Feasts) are repeatedly noticed in the
Sarum Churchwardens' accounts from long before to long
after the Reformation.
It was the Church Ales which formerly provided the money
to maintain St. George and his Priest at Purton, till, as the old
1 We here get an explanation and meaning of the term " Increase "
used by an old witness when speaking of the Ale which maintained the
Image of St. George and his Priest.
THE STORY OF PURTON
witness said, " they were abolished and taken out of the Church."
We can easily imagine how deeply the memory of this event
(the story of which is told on page 29) must have sunk
into the minds of the old men, and how vividly it was recalled
when they gave their evidence fifty years after it occurred.
But, although so many changes had meanwhile taken place,
the custom of brewing Church Ales was continued, and were
still brewed, though now forjyjifferent purpose, in the Butheys.
In pre-Reformation days the parishioners had no choice as
to attending these Church Ale feasts and contributing to the
money which they provided for the Church. This we see
from the following extract taken from an old Indenture
(see Wilts Arch. Mag., vol. ii., p. 193) : —
" The Inhabitants of ... shall brew foure ales — at their
own costs and charges . . . and every inhabitant shall be
at the said ales ; every husband and his wife shall pay 2d and
every cottyer id. and all come to the said ales. . . . The
profits and vantages coming of the said ales, (shall be retained).
Eight ales shall be brewed betwixt the Feast of St. Andrew
and the Feast of St. John Baptist if the inhabitant be
away at one ale to pay at ye toder for both or els to send
his money."
The money thus collected was used to repair the churches,
to buy books for the service " cuppes for the celebration of the
Sacrament, Surplices for Sir John " (i.e. the Clergyman), " etc.,
etc."
In the days of Aubrey's1 grandfather, there being no rate
for the poor at Kington St. Michael, Wilts, " the Church Ale
at Whitsuntide did their business." In the Church of Thorpe le
Soken in Essex is an ancient wooden screen bearing this
inscription : —
" This cost is the Bachelors — made by Ales. Jesus be their
mede."
The "Word Ale" '« is still held in secret at Midgehall at
Michaelmas to celebrate the exemption of the land from tithe,
the name being derived from the Anglo-Saxon Wordland.
A Scot Ale got its name from the fee or Scot paid by the people.
1 Aubrey, the Wiltshire historian, seventeenth century.
2 See Chapter xvii.
32
THE STORY OF PURTON
A Clerk's Ale was held to enable the Clerk to collect his dues
more readily.
Feasts connected with these ales led in time to riotous
conduct and they had to be suppressed by law, although in
some places they lingered on into the last century, the Clerk's
Ale being held at Chiseldon as late as 1845, as related in the
Wilts Arch. Magazine, vol. ii., pp. 190 and 399. The word
" Butt " means a boundary between two properties, as it does
in the field called the Butts at Purton and in another in
Lydiard Millicent. It is more likely, however, that the place
called the Butthey, which is not at a boundary, was so named
because it was the enclosure or " haie " for " St. George's Butts,"
as described by the old witness, R. Plover, in 1597.
33
CHAPTER V
THE MASKELYNE FAMILY
IN writing of this family one has to go back a very long
way in the history of Purton, as no less than eighteen
Maskelynes in succession have been the respected owners of
broad acres in Purton and Lydiard parishes.
The first was Robert, a freeholder in Lydiard Millicent in
1435, nearly five hundred years ago.
His great-grandson, William of Purton and Lydiard, " gave
rent to Maintain a Light before our Lady" at Lydiard Tregoze.
Curious bequests were made in the old wills of bygone days,
when values were so immensely greater than at the present
time. For instance, a single ewe was often bequeathed.
As far as we know, West Marsh was the first Purton home of
the family, and there George and Jane Maskelyne lived in the
days of Queen Elizabeth. The touching story of Jane is told in
the chapter about the Church, where allusions are made to her
grandfather Richard Pulley, and to her aunt Isabel Joy (nee
Pulley), who lived at that time at the Manor House, close to
the Church and Great Tithe Barn. The endless quarrels arising
from the length of the conventual leases given to the Pulley
family, which overlapped Lord Chandos' purchase of the Manor,
are also described in Chapter iv. After the dissolution of the
Abbey, the church lands x originally given by pious benefactors
for the maintenance of church light were let by the Church-
wardens to George Maskelyne of West Marsh, for the benefit
of the Church.
After the death of George and Jane Maskelyne, their son
Edmund, who was a member of the Inner Temple and a Feodary
of the Duchy of Lancaster, added largely to the land belonging
to the family He was lord of the Manors of Cricklade and
Chelworth and of Slaughter (Co. Gloucester), and M.P. for
Cricklade in 1625. As a lawyer he was greatly interested in
1 See Chapter iv. for the list of these fields.
34
THE STORY OF PURTON
the very early enclosure of Purton Common, agreed upon by
Lord Chandos and his Purton neighbours in 1596-97.
At Basset Down is preserved an Account Book dated 1638,
kept by Edmund's son, Neville Maskelyne, which gives very
useful information about the land and the stinting of beasts on
the commons. l
Neville was also a Member of Parliament for Cricklade, and
it was he who charged the Pry Pasture with £5 a year for the
poor of Purton, and los. to the Minister to preach a sermon
on Good Friday. He was also one of the original Trustees
of the Purton Play Close, conveyed to them in 1641.
His grandson, Neville, who succeeded him in 1679, served in
a troop of Militia Horse at the time of Monmouth's rebellion,
his Commission from Lord Pembroke being addressed " to my
loving friend Neville Maskaline Esqr. in 1683."
This Neville and his wife Ann, daughter of the Vicar of
Purton, Rev. W. Bathe, brought up a family of ten children
at West Marsh, both dying young in 1706 and 1711 respectively.
Little is known of the childhood of these children, but from
a letter written very long afterwards by Lady Clive, preserved
at Basset Down, we learn that two of them, her aunts Jane
and Sarah, when old women had great pleasure in recalling
the following story : " Five sons and five daughters lived to
grow up and sit at their parents' table. They were all dressed
alike, one year in yellow, another in blue, etc., and one year, as
they walked in procession up the steps of Purton Church, an
old woman sitting on the wall of the churchyard, cried out in
a treble voice, ' There go Squire Maskelyne 's Yellowhammers.' '
Soon after the death of their parents, West Marsh was sold
to pay the money settled on the younger children, and the
eldest son, Neville, rebuilt and settled at the Down, the younger
children having to seek their fortunes in London or India.
The third son, Edmund, a clerk in the East India Company
at Whitehall, brought up three sons and one daughter Margaret,
afterwards Lady Clive.
The eldest son, William, eventually inherited the Ponds
Farm, Purton Stoke, from his Bathe great-uncle.
Captain Edmund, the second son, bought Basset Down on
1 See Wilts Arch. Mag., vol. xl., p. 122.
35
THE STORY OF PURTON
leaving India. The third son, the Rev. Nevil Maskelyne, D.D.,
born 1732, became Astronomer Royal at Greenwich, and having
outlived his two brothers, finally inherited the Purton properties
and Basset Down. He was buried in Purton Churchyard, near
his forefathers. To him we owe the first conception of
and publication of the Nautical Almanac, the first volume of
which appeared in 1767.
The great French Astronomer Delambre said of him : —
" He has left the most complete set of observations with
which the world was ever presented, corrected in the most
careful manner, which has served during thirty years as the
basis of all astronomical observations ; in short, it may be said
. . . that, if by any great revolution the works of all other
astronomers were lost, and this collection preserved, it would
contain sufficient materials to raise again nearly entire the
edifice of modern astronomy."
He had one daughter, Margaret, who married in 1819
Anthony Storey, son of the Rev. William Storey, by Bridget
Prower, sister and aunt of two successive Vicars of Purton
(1771-1869), a family well known in Purton for a great many
years.
Mrs. Maskelyne was a skilful artist, and many beautiful
and interesting sketches from her pencil are now at Basset
Down House. Amongst them is an exquisitely drawn map of
Purton district, 1 of a very large size and elaborate detail.
The view of old Purton House (facing p. 107) is a
reproduction from her work in 1802-10.
Her son, Mr. Mervyn Nevil Storey Maskelyne, was M.P. for
Cricklade, and a Liberal Unionist in politics. He married
n 1858 Thereza, daughter of J. Dillwyn Llewelyn, of Penllergare,
who has collected much information about Purton, and contri-
buted several articles to the Wilts Archcsological Magazine.
He left three daughters : —
i. Margaret Emma, of Purton, who devotes her life and
energies to social work amongst her poor neighbours, and
is specially interested in Poor Law reform. She is one of
the members for Lydiard Millicent of the Cricklade and
Wootton Bassett District Council.
1 Copied from an older map of the date 1744.
36
THE STORY OF PURTON
2. Mary Lucy, married the late Right Honourable Hugh
Oakeley Arnold-Forster, M.P. for West Belfast and Croydon,
Secretary for the Admiralty and Secretary of State for War.
She has four sons, William, Mervyn, John and Christopher,
who all served their country in her hour of need.
Mrs. Arnold-Forster leads a busy life. She entirely
organised the arrangements for the Belgian Refugee colonies
in the district, and is much interested in all schemes for social
work.
3. Thereza Charlotte, married the late Sir Arthur Riicker,
F.R.S., Principal of the University of London, and has one
son, Nevil, who fought in France during the War.
37
CHAPTER VI
PURTON CHURCH
THE patron saint of our beautiful Church is St. Mary, but
curiously enough in the time of Edward III. St. Nicholas
is the name given. 1 Aubrey; writing in 1569, gives the following
interesting description of it :
" This is a very faire Church, sometime doubtless a place
of great devotion, as appeares by those many niches in the
walles within and without to sett images in, etc.
" At the East end of the Chancel, without are two Angells,
holding some kind of vegitative between them, which I suppose
to be either a laurel or olive branch. All the windowes in the
Chancell are seminated all over with estoiles or starres of six
points.
" On the North side of the Altar, in the wall, is an old marble
tomb, but the inscription with coates of Arms being in brasse,
on purpose to perpetuate the memories of the dead, gave
occasion to sacriligious hands to teare them away. In this
Church have been very fine paynted glasse, but now so broken
and mangled, that there is little to be recovered. In a crosse
aile, on the South side, in the third column of the East windowe
is this coate (Keynes No. 225). In the south windowe in the
same aile, are several Bishops with their mitres and crosiers.
This Coate (No. 226, Paynell) is in the last windowe on the south
side of the Church, and this inscription has been shuffled,
I know not how, by the glazier, into the first column of the same
windowe, ' Johannes Passus.' (This may have referred to some
stained glass representation of the execution of St. John.)
"In this parish was Chancellor Hyde's habitation when a
private gentleman, before the civill warres." *
But we have already told something of Chancellor Hyde,
and must now continue with our account of the Church.
1 In a fine of Edward III., 1336.
z See Chapter iii.
38
THE STORY OF PURTON
Mr. Ponting, the Diocesan Architect, some years ago compiled a
delightful paper 1 describing the Church in detail, and the writer
has adapted these notes in the following description.
Our Church is very symmetrical in form, having a nave
with north and south aisles, a central tower below the spire,
with north and south transepts, chancel with north sacristy
(now the vestry) and South Chapel, and the later western tower
where the bells hang. There was formerly a north door in the
central aisle, now built up ; it is remarkable for the high level
at which it is placed, the sill being three feet above the floor
and other doorways, and the jambs outside show that this was
its original position, though the lie of the ground does not explain
the reason for it.
Twelfth Century.
The earliest feature is the Transitional Norman impost of the
east respond of the south nave arcade, which suggests that there
may have been a central tower of that date, though this, like
that on the north side, was removed and re-instated when the
present tower was built.
Early Thirteenth Century.
The nave appears to have been rebuilt at this period, only
the cylindrical piers of the two arcades with caps and bases
remain, and the bases are missing on the eastern responds
against the central tower. Although the north and south piers
are coeval, the capitals of the north are richly carved with foliage
characteristic of the style, while those on the south are only
moulded.
A little later the present chancel was erected. All the walls
(except the east wall, which was rebuilt in 1872) are of this date,
though there have been many insertions. An original lancet
window remains in the north wall near the central tower, but
it is built up and disused since the fifteenth century when the
sacristy was added outside it. The doorway which cuts into
the window is also built up. Portions of a similar window
farther eastward can be seen on the south side of the chancel.
In the south wall of the sacrarium the original Early English
piscina exists, large and with two shelves.
1 See Wilts Arch. Mag., vol. xxiii., p. 229.
39
THE STORY OF PURTON
Fourteenth Century.
The chapel on south side of the chancel appears now to have
been added. The three-light east window here is a beautiful
specimen of " flowing Decorated." The window and doorway,
now closed, in the south wall, are evidently later insertions,
coeval with the aisles. A " Decorated " piscina with shelf in
south wall shows this to have been a chantry. The central
tower and spire, north and south transepts, were probably
built about the end of the reign of Edward III. The tower
is a singular combination of Decorated and Perpendicular styles,
the alternate sunk chamfer and hollow of the piers and the
groining of the lower stage being earlier in feeling than the
upper stage. The spire, as its bold roll indicates, was evidently
a continuation of the lower and earlier work. The squinches
of the spire have square pinnacles with the parapet. The upper
stage of the tower is open to the spire, and has two corbels
low down on the east and west faces inside, and larger ones
higher up on north and south sides, which probably supported
bells before the western tower was added. A door opens in the
south transept, and lower on the north and east are built-up
windows ; these would be blocked by adjacent roofs, which
retain their original pitch. There are two-light windows
higher up on four sides. A turret stair from north transept
gives approach to this stage, and to a second floor above the
higher bell corbels. A bit of Norman roll-moulding is seen on
the third step from the floor, which suggests that this work
displaced some former work of that period.
Transepts.
A piscina, of which the shelf is missing, shows in the south
transept that an altar once stood here ; an archway having led
through the east wall to the chapel confirms this, for the chamfer
of the south jamb is stopped at four feet from the floor (which
would be about the level of the mensa, including the step) ;
over the position of the altar is a squint of a triple quatrefoil,
with the splay of the jamb on the east side inclined slightly
to the north, in the direction of the altar of the chapel.
North Transept.
Two corbel heads indicate an altar here on the inside faces
40
THE STORY OF PURTON
of the jambs of the later and peculiarly flat archway in the east
wall opening into the sacristry. A beautiful little Transitional
window peeps out clear of the north aisle.
Fifteenth Century.
Considerable alterations soon after, if not actually in
connection, followed. The upper parts of the walls and arches
of the nave arcades were taken down, the Early English piers
and responds raised about three feet, but the original capitals
retained, and new arches with the mouldings of the time erected
on them. The new stones were clumsily fitted into the old,
and the former height of the old piers is easy to see. The
mouldings of the capitals appear to have been partly altered
to meet the newer style.
At this time the north and south aisles were re-built and
the south porch erected, and here many Decorated features
linger, i.e., the tracery of the west window of the north aisle,
the doorway and niche in the south porch, and the rich jamb
and arch-mouldings of all the windows, showing the Decorated
feeling in a marked degree. The south aisle has its original
roof of span form and high pitch.
South Porch.
This is large and rich in detail. A plain outer doorway
with two orders of chamfers with label over. A moulded stone
arch crosses the porch from east to west, dividing it into two
bays, and supporting the Priest's Room. Outside the east wall
a buttress receives the thrust of the arch, the stair turret
strengthens the west side, and there are diagonal buttresses
south-west and south-east. These and the angle buttresses
of the later western tower are the only ones in any part of
the Church, which is remarkable.
Niches (thirteen in all).
There is a beautiful niche in the east wall of the south porch
constructed to hold a single figure, sides panelled the full
height, as also the soffit and part of the upper back. It has
a square head, and has been richly traceried, but much is
destroyed. Every part shows original colouring in red, yellow
THE STORY OF PURTON
and blue, as do the spandrels of the arch spanning the porch.
The following niches are outside : —
Three on west face of tower . . Perpendicular.
One on north face of tower . . ,,
One on south face of tower . . „
One in east gable of south chapel Transitional Decorated
to Perpendicular.
One in south gable of south transept Early English
(replaced here).
Inside : —
One in east wall of porch (see above) Transitional.
One in centre of north aisle
Two in east wall of chancel . . Perpendicular.
One on sill of east window of chancel ,,
One cut in east respond of south
arcade of nave . . . . . . ,,
Corbels (six).
One in east wall of south transept.
One in east wall of north transept.
Two in jambs of archway in east wall of transept.
Two in west wall of north aisle.
Priest's Room.
A turret stair on the north-west angle of the south
porch leads to the priest's room. The original doorway remains
with ogee head, and fireplace with carved patera in the mould-
ings of the jambs. The roof is modern, and the pitch is lowered
from its old position. The chimney is coeval with the staircase,
the coping similarly embattled. Observe the curious sink
stone just outside the door, the spout carried through the wall
of the turret to the outside, showing that this room was
inhabited. The larger window is of recent date.
Western Tower.
This appears to have been erected at about the middle of
the fifteenth century, and to have been carried out as a
distinct work. Note the fact that oyster shells are employed
in forming the joints ; this is not the case in any other part of
42
THE STORY OF PURTON
the Church. This does not occur in any Wiltshire Churches
of earlier date than the middle of the fourteenth century.
(The earliest use of these shells with which Mr. Ponting is
acquainted is in the Transitional Church of Edington Monastery,
dedicated in 1361.)
The Tower is a beautiful specimen of the best period of
Perpendicular. It is in four stages, with angle buttresses
carried the full height, and pinnacles standing square on them.
The pinnacles are richly crocketed and pierced, and a pierced
parapet of quatrefoils is carried round between them. All
the niches have crocketed canopies, and the four lower ones
have the base for the figure raised on a low shaft, whilst the
upper one is supported by a carved angel-corbel.
The Chancel.
About the time of the building of the western tower the
windows in the chancel, two on north, one on south, and the
east window appear to have been inserted. The niches here
are identical with that over the west window outside the
western tower. A third niche rises from the centre of the
window-sill, covered with the ancient colouring, but this niche
is incomplete.
The chancel has sedilia with flat arch, under — and coeval
with — the south window of the sacrarium, and there are remains
of a late altar tomb on the north.
Outside the east window there is a sculptured panel,
undoubtedly of the Annunciation, 15^ inches by 13 inches ;
a flat cusped canopy, much mutilated, projects over the figures.
This panel, coeval with the window above (fifteenth century),
possibly commemorates a rededication of the Church, as
described by Aubrey earlier in this chapter.
Glass.
There are fragments of fifteenth-century glass in the windows
in the north and south transepts, and in two windows of the
north aisle, the latter having figures of bishops.
Ancient Wall Paintings.
A fresco over the doorway in the south wall of the south
chapel is the most remarkable, apparently the raising of
43
THE STORY OF PURTON
J aims' daughter, whose figure is well drawn, and fairly well
preserved, lying on the ground with her feet towards the east,
her hands at her sides, clothed in a long garment, head and neck
exposed with flowing hair. Another figure shows our Lord,
with a nun bus, with one hand outstretched and seven
attendants standing by. The other wall paintings are very
indistinct.
Over the doorway in the south aisle a panel containing
some inscription may be traced, enclosed by a border. A male
figure guards each side ; the one on the west side holds a rod.
With the sun brightly shining, and with the eye of faith,
one can sometimes see more in these old frescoes than is
apparent to a cautious critic, and he would be a bold man who
would try to explain away what undoubtedly has been the
happy experience of some devoted observers of these ancient
colour studies.
One cannot learn a building of this kind without many years'
of patient love and observation, but the knowledge will come
to those who look for it, with joy and much reward for all the
time thus spent.
If you came to Purton and asked one of the inhabitants
why there is a tower as well as a spire on the Church, nine
people out of ten would tell you that it was because two sisters
built the Church and could not agree, so decided to have both.
This appears to be the usual explanation, as the following lines
on Ormskirk Church will show. It seems that " two
daughters of Orme, a famous pirate, built a Church to keep
their memory green, but disagreed on the design, so they at
length decided to have a tower ana also a steeple at Ormskirk,
Lancashire."
" ' Sister,' said one, ' it 's my desire,
The Church should have a tapering spire,
To point to realms where sin's forgiven,
And lead men's thoughts from Earth to Heaven.'
" The other said, ' I like a tower,
It speaks of strength, of might, of power,
An emblem of the Church's strength
To overcome the World at length,
To show, that 'gainst the Church, though frail,
The gates of Hell shall not prevail.' "
44
THE STORY OF PURTON
These particulars of our beautiful peal of bells are
interesting : —
No. i, the treble bell, is engraved " Jno Grymes and
Wm Packer Churchwardens," and its diameter is thirty-seven
inches.
No. 2 is engraved "Anno Domini 1628," and measures
41 1 inches across.
No. 3, the oldest bell of all, has this inscription, " This
bell was made in The yeare of The Lord 1598," and is 44 inches
across. Mr. Doble, the bell-hanger from Taunton, told the
writer that a bell with so early a date should be specially
noted, as previous to this no bells bear anything but the trade
mark of the maker upon them.
No. 4. This bell was very badly cracked, and could not be
rung, so in 1916 it was taken down and re-cast, of which we shall
speak later. The old inscription and decoration has been
exactly reproduced on the new cast. The words were as
follows : " Edward Deane, Humprey Stanley, Churchwardens.
A.R. 1750," and the diameter was 45| inches. The bell was
found to be rather thin, so to ensure no crack this time some
more metal was added, and the tone is certainly very fine.
It now bears in addition the following inscription : —
" Recast M.C.M.XVI.
A. M. D. G.
et in piam memoriam
Mervyn Stronge Richardson
ist Battalion Royal Welch Fusiliers
killed in action at Fricourt France, March igth 1916.
aged 21 years.
Dulce et decorum est, pro
patria mori.
Arthur Richardson. Captain.
Frank Kempster. Churchwardens.
John Veysey, Vicar."
No. 5 is the tenor bell, whose well-known tones are rung
alone for the last five minutes before service, and it is also rung
as the Passing Bell, when a parishioner has been called away
from this world to the next. Its diameter measures 50 inches.
45
THE STORY OF PURTON
The small call bell, which rings as service is about to begin,
is engraved : —
" Come away, make no delay,"
and is dated 1760 ; the diameter is only 13^ inches.
With five bells it is possible to ring twenty-four different
changes, with a larger number thousands of changes can be
rung. There is much to be learnt in the art of bell ringing,
and a certain amount of risk for beginners, but it is well worthy
of trouble to become an expert, and a high honour to be able to
join in calling the parishioners in this way to the House of God.
In some parishes in bygone days on Sunday mornings men were
stationed on various stiles in the parish (when a Church was
without bells), who called out at intervals : " Come to Church,
Mr. Black ; come to Church, Mr. Jones."
To Messrs. Taylor, of Loughborough, was given the re-casting
of No. 4 bell. Some of the money had already been collected
in the parish ; but on examination it was found that a new floor
was required, and an entirely fresh arrangement for ringing,
and a good deal of strengthening to make all safe and secure.
Captain Richardson, who had just experienced the loss of his
youngest son in France, offered to do the bell casting at his
own expense in his son's memory, and gave £100, the Hon.
Mrs. Hewitt, Captain Walter Stronge, Miss Stronge, Mrs. Walsh
and Miss Story-Maskelyne also subscribing with this object.
The Ecclesiastical Commissioners added £10, and so the work
was at once put in hand, and the result is very satisfactory.
Captain M. S. Richardson had fought in France since
September, 1914, and had been once severely bruised by a
shell, and once also wounded in 1915. A shell burst on the
wire which he was inspecting in front of the firing-line, killing
him and a lance-corporal who was with him. He was buried
a few hours later 100 yards behind the front line. He had
been recommended for the Military Cross, and was mentioned
in Despatches.
Three years previously a fund was inaugurated to purchase
a new organ for the Church, and the Carnegie Trust, at Captain
Richardson's request, kindly promised the sum of £250 when
a similar amount had been collected. Happily the money was
forthcoming, so the order has been placed with Messrs. Nicholson,
46
PURTOX, WILTS.
(Old print. This puul is now drained aivay.
ST. MARY'S CHURCH, PURTON, I1EK)RK RESTORATION.
THE STORY OF PURTON
of Worcester, and it is hoped the instrument may be installed
by the end of the summer. The Lord Bishop has promised to
come to Purton to dedicate the No. 4 bell, and will arrange
his visit so that the organ may then also be consecrated.
Old Morgan Staley was the Clerk who said the responses
in the days when the three-decker pulpit was still in our Church.
He was famous for his powerful Amens, which he repeated in
a loud, sonorous tone. On one occasion only he failed in this
response, to the amazement of the congregation. What had
happened was this. Staley had only one eye, and wore glasses.
Unknown to him, the glass over his remaining eye fell out of
his spectacles, and finding himself, as he thought, blind,
he for once forgot to say his Amen.
The following is a list of the Vicars of Purton, with the names
of the Patrons : —
Patrons. Vicars.
1299. Abbot of Malmesbury
1312. ,, ,, ,, Johannus de Hauteford.
1316. ,, „ ,, Johannus de Haydoy.
1349. » » » Ricardius de Bristolia.
1384. „ „ „ Robertus de Suttleton.
1389. „ „ „ Nicholas Wods.
1409. ,, ,, ., Robertus Denly.
1409. ,, ,, ,, Johannus Burnet.
1444. ,, „ ,, Henricus Pyke.
1478. Johannus, Abbas de Abingdon. Johannus Lyneham.
I5I5- Johannus Kyte, Capelanus et Johannus Frankelyn.
Thomas Hawkins.
I555- Edmundus Brydges Miles. Johannus Hyte.
1569. Ditto et Ducis Chandos, Thomas Roberts.
Baro de Sudley.
I573- Dorathea Chandos vidua et do. John Prendergast.
1582. do. et Gab'l. Knowles Gul Symons.
1601. do. „ Rob Price.
1629. Johannus Cooper Miles. Rob Symons.
1664. Anthonus Dominus Ashley. Jacobi Hemerford.
Baro de Wimborne.
1664. do. do. Gulielemus Bath.
1715, Maurice Ashley, Arsinger. Gul Alford.
47
THE STORY OF PURTON
Patrons. Vicars.
1748. Anthony, Earl of Shaftesbury. Richardus Glass.
1762. ,, „ Nathanial Sandford.
1771. The Bishop (by lapse). Gregory Sharpe.
1771. Anthony, Earl of Shaftesbury. John Prower.
1828. ,, ,, John Mervyn Prower.
1869. „ „ Walter Mitchell.
1874. „ „ James Hewlett.
1878. „ „ John Veysey.
1917. Earl and Countess of Shaftes- The present Vicar,
bury, Miss Warrender, The Robert Birch Harrison.
Rev. Father Waggett, and
Mr. Glynn.
The oak choir stalls and the screen at the west entrance
were erected in 1893, and the old font was rescued from its
banishment and re-erected in the Church for use again in the
christening of young Purtonians at the same date. It was
found lying in the garden belonging to Mrs. Walsh's cottages ;
it is octagonal, and of the local stone.
In the Priest's Chamber are kept a number of ancient tomes
relating to Articles of Apprenticeship, payment of tithes, and
also lists of those parishioners who were in the workhouse, or
who were in receipt of what in old days came under the name of
" Extraordinaries," and now would be called out-relief.
The first apprenticeship document is dated 1684, when
Charles II. was King of England, and Robert Plomer and John
Eatoll were overseers of Purton Parish. Anthony Stanley,
son of William, described as " a poor child of the said Parish,"
was apprenticed to one John Askweeke, of Dauntsey, to learn
the " trade art and mystery of a Largeweaver " for seven years
" in the best manner,** his master promising to provide him
with "meate, drinke, apparrell, and washinge, and lodginge,
fitt for such an apprentice." At the end of the seven years
Anthony was to be fitted out with " apparrell of all sorts good
and new, that is to say, a good new suit for Holly-days."
With a girl the wording was different, for we read that in
1698 Eleanor Pannell was apprenticed to John Warman, of
Malmesbury, and the indenture runs thus : —
" She shall not haunt, unless it be about her master's
48
THE STORY OF PURTON
business there to be done, at the dise [dice], cards or any other
unlawful game or games. She shall not play the goods of her
said masters.
" Inordinately she shall not waste, nor them to anyone lend
without her master's lysons, marriage with any man within the
said tenure she shall not contract, nor excuse, nor from her
said service, either by day or by night shall absent and prolong
herself, but as a true and faithful servant ought . . . behave
herself towards her Master and Dame as well in words as in
deeds."
In return for all this she was to be instructed in the
*' art craft or mystery of Cows-lard making " and to receive
food and clothing. The Justices who signed her indenture were
Edmund Pleydell and Nevil Maskelyne.
An entry dated " May ye i8th 1728," shows a touch of
humour. It says : —
" Then received of ye Revd. Mr. Glasse ye sum of sixteen
pounds in full for work, coals, and all other demands whatever,
from ye beginning of ye World to this day. Witness my hand.
" The mark of X. Hun More. 16. o. o.
" Witnefs Jno Clerks."
In the reference to Purton Mill dated October iQth, 1744,
we find a coincidence, for then, as now, a Lewis lived there,
and " Elizth Lewis, late Orchard, pd ye Tythe of ye Mill for 9
years to Lady Day £12. o. o."
Then " Betty Giles " seems to have been somewhat slack
in meeting her obligations, for on August 2ist, 1744, it was
recorded that she paid for tithe,
" 4 cows in ye common 020
12 lambs 030
12 sheep 4 months i o
But the sinister note follows : " N.B. Betty Giles to account to
Mr. Wheeler and Miss Langston for 2 years due Lady Day last."
Among the " Extraordinaries " are some quaint entries,
for we find : " 1757. Gave William Bayley. His wife having
the small pox 55." Poor William, we wonder how he laid
it out, and whether he too fell a victim.
49
THE STORY OF PURTON
Then on July ist of the same year comes : " Bread and Cheese
at John Stanley's wifes burial 33. For Ale 33. 9|d."
Needlework was not too highly paid, as " For making i shift
for Anne Ayrog 5d. was given," while for " digging the graves
and ringing the bells " 35. 6d. was the amount allowed.
Moses Slade on July i8th, 1769, " hurt himself mowing,
and got 2s. " and Mary Cutts got "is. for her young child
being much burnt."
The entries are written in the old style, and want some
practice to decipher, but luckily the following was not missed :
" Gave Mary Lewis by order of vestry to buy ale, bread and
cheese at her lying in 53."
It is surely well to impress upon the young the spirit of
reverence, and that the Church and God's Acre which surrounds
it are hallowed ground. In the old days this was unhappily
not the custom, for we are told that when any parishioner
wanted a good flat stone, he repaired to the graveyard to pick
out one which might suit his purpose. It is even said that
someone in Purton wanting a new bottom for his oven upon
which to bake his bread pressed a tombstone into the service,
and when the bread was duly baked, plainly upon the bottom
of the large loaf could be read the words, " Here lies the body
of . . ."
The following lines have been well known in the neighbour-
hood as a song for many years in illustration of the story
just related, which no doubt, like other tales, has " not lost in
the telling."
THE VILLAGE BAKER.
i.
Job Jenkins was a baker and
A very honest elf,
By selling crust and crumbs he made
A tidy crust himself,
But Job he lived in better days
When bills were freely paid,
And bakers were thought honest then
So bread was never weighed.
THE STORY OF PURTON
n.
While walking through the old Churchyard
He saw some old tombstones,
That long had marked the resting-place
Of some poor neighbour's bones,
"These bodies long have gone to dust,
These stones no use," he said,
"They '11 mend my oven and improve
My very next batch of bread."
in.
Tom Snooks, the parish mason,
A very sporting blade,
Who in race horses and the dead
Had done a tidy trade,
To him Job gave the order,
Regardless of amount,
And charged it to the Parish
In his next half-year's account.
IV.
The job was done — the bread was baked —
Job, in his highest glee
Sat up to draw the batch that he
Might great improvement see,
But soon as drawn he " slope the pill " 1
With horror in his looks,
And rushed out like a madman
And knocked down Tommy Snooks !
v.
" Get up, you wretch, and come and see
The blunder you have made,
Your tombstone bottom sure will prove
A deathblow to my trade,
I know that when you 're in the whim
At trifles you don't stick,
And by your trick you 've spoilt my batch
My cottage, square and brick."
1 Pill means corner; A.-S., slipped away.
51
THE STORY OF PURTON
VI.
He took him to the bakehouse,
Where a curious sight was seen,
The words on every loaf were marked
That had on tombstone been,
One quartern had " in memory of "
Another " here to pine,"
The third " departed from this life
At the age of ninety nine."
VII.
A batch of rolls when they were done
Had on the bottom plain,
The trusting words distinctly marked
" In hopes to rise again,"
A batch of penny loaves came next
Which said " our time is past,
Thus day by day, we 've pined away,
And come to this at last."
VIII.
Tom Snooks now turned his head away
His laughter to conceal, he said" he thought
It a nobby way in making a bread seal."
Says Job, " This seal has sealed my fate
How can I sell my bread ?
To feed the living, when it bears,
The motto of the dead ? " »
1 From Mr. John Greenham.
CHAPTER VII
AN ANCIENT RECORD OF PURTON — OLD FAMILIES — A MYSTERY —
THE " ANCREN RIWLE " — OLD PURTON FOLK
IN an ancient volume * published 1659-70 we find the following
account of Purton : —
" Three miles South of Cricklade is a village called Purton,
which is very pleasantly situated, and has a handsome Church,
with several good buildings, and is well inhabited. A few years
ago, as some men were digging to make a grave in the Chancel
of the Church, they struck against a stone coffin about three
feet below the surface of the ground, and, having with some
difficulty raised it up, it was found to measure 6' 6" in length,
22" broad, n" deep and 3" thick, except the head which was
hollowed with great art, but the rest of the coffin was rude
workmanship. It was impossible to determine the time when
this had been first deposited, as neither figure nor inscription
were to be seen.
" In it were found three skulls of the common size, supposed
to have been forced into it by accident, when other graves had
been opened in the place, and this opinion is the more probable,
from there having been a wooden lid to the coffin."
The old family of Goddard held considerable property in
Purton, Francis, second son of Edward Goddard, of Clyfie,
having held the Purton House Estate. He was succeeded by
Edward, and after him Anthony Goddard, who married Mary
Evans, and was buried at Purton in 1725, leaving an infant son
to succeed him, afterwards Richard Goddard, M.D., of Purton
House, who married a daughter of Sir J. Willes. His only
daughter married Robert Wilsonn, R.N. Their eldest of four
daughters married Richard Miles, who purchased the property
from his mother-in-law. After this Horatio Nelson Goddard,
of Clyffe Pypard, was the owner, and from him, in 1843, Purton
House was purchased by the well-remembered Major Prower.
1 The New British Traveller.
53
THE STORY OF PURTON
Miss Maud Prower, who spends some months of the summer at
Sissells, is his daughter.
The Rev. John Prower, M:A., had succeeded the Rev.
Gregory Sharpe as Vicar in 1771, and died aged 80 years in
1827. He was succeeded by his son John Mervin Prower,
who died in 1869, aged 85, the two Prowers having thus held
the living for practically a century.
Major Prower, of Purton House, was the son of the latter,
and in a newspaper account of his day we find the following : —
" He was the first and readiest to assist in the work of the
restoration of the Church, and his name was never mentioned
by either rich or poor in the village, where he was best known,
except lovingly, and where he was the representative of a
Father and Grandfather who had for nearly a Century occupied
the position of the ' Person of the Village.' "
But if Major Prower was much beloved in Purton, where to
this day his name is a household word, even more so was his
wife, Mrs. Prower, who by her continued kindness and her
royal gift of remembering faces had well earned for herself
the soubriquet of " The Mother of the Village."
It was a sad day for her when for various reasons it became
necessary to leave the dear old home where her children were
born, and where she was so much appreciated by all who knew
her, but such was Fate.
It was in the year 1872 that the work in the Church began,
and the total cost of the restoration then undertaken was
£2,500. Of this Major Prower gave £1,000, Lord Shaftesbury
gave £100 and half an acre of land, Mr. C. Wykeham-Martin
£100, Mrs. Plummer £100, and Mr. S. C. Sadler and other
parishioners contributed liberally.
An old feature of the graveyard at Purton is the yew,
strapped together with its iron bands, and another the stem of
the old Preaching Cross, both memorials of the days of open-air
worship in God's Acre. Since the loss of so many of our Purton
heroes in the War, it has been the custom on festival days and
anniversaries to hang a laurel wreath on the old cross base
in loving memory oi the fallen, with a card bearing their
names and a few lines of comfort for sorrowing hearts.
These ancient Preaching Crosses are said to have been often
in place before the village churches were built, hence the name,
54
THE STORY OF PURTON
as about them the congregation gathered to hear the preacher,
and around them were laid to rest in God's Acre those who had
finished their life's journey. Often these holy places were lent
for unworthy use, such as trading, Church Ales, etc., of which we
have spoken elsewhere, and in some places bones are found
outside what is now the boundary. This may account for the
skeletons turning up in what was once the Purton Vicarage
garden and shrubbery.
In a wonderful structure such as Purton Church there is
much to hold the imagination. One wonders who designed,
who built it ? Architects, workmen, all long forgotten.
Generation after generation of worshippers have followed each
other, and each and all gone in their turn. One feels that the
prayers and praises from so many lips must have hallowed and
beautified the very arches, pillars and stones as the centuries
slipped away. But in the year 1872 a real surprise and
unfathomable mystery was brought to light in the remarkable
discovery of an adult female skeleton built up in a cavity in
the chancel wall.
In the angle formed by the north transept and the chancel
there was a chapel, now used as a vestry. At some time the
entrance to this chapel was closed. During the work of
restoration about forty years ago the stonework on the north
transept side was removed, and a low oak screen substituted.
On the chancel side a plain doorway was discovered. When
the workmen were pinning the end of the east wall of this
chapel into the chancel wall, they found that four feet from
the floor the wall was hollow, and on opening it found the
skeleton lying at full length, the head and shoulders in a cavity
cut out in the chancel wall, the remainder of the body being
in the chapel wall. The cavities in both walls had been specially
prepared, and when the body was in position the wall was
built up. Who was this woman, and what was her story ?
Was she a recluse ? Probably so, and the recess in which
the head lay was the outlook through which a view of the
altar was obtained.
The Church at Edington in Wiltshire had such a reclusorium,
and possibly some solitary enthusiast connected with the Abbey
of Malmesbury elected to spend her days in a living tomb.
In the story of Thaysis, told in the " Golden Legend," we have a
55
THE STORY OF PURTON
picture of a recluse : " She went to the place which the Abbot
had assyned to her, and there was a monasterye of vyrgns,
and there he closed her in a cell, and sealed the door with led
And the cell was lytyll and strayte, and but one lytyll window
open, by which was mynistered to her poor lyvinge : for the
Abbot commanded that they should gyve her a lytell brede
and water.". If this room or chapel could tell its tale, no doubt
it would be of great interest. Originally there were three
windows, one looking north, one west, and one south, but these
had been so effectively filled and closed that nothing but the
dead blank wall met the eye. Over this room or chapel there
was a second chamber ascended by an incline, the whole being
covered by a heavy stone roof. The birds built their nests
there, and the boys went up to rob them, but they never
ventured to enter the lower chamber. The tradition was that
no one must go in there, and it is supposed Canon Prower
knew why, as when about eighty years ago it was suggested to
him it might be used as a robing room, he asked that the subject
should not be referred to again, that its history bore some
reference to a former vicar, and that a " dark deed " had been
committed there. The finding of the skeleton intensified but
did not explain the mystery. 1
The following lines on a nun immured in Purton Church,
Wilts, whose skeleton was discovered in 1872, give a version of
what may have happened : —
Take thy candle, hold the Cross,
Thou must die for mortal sin,
Better bear the body's loss
Than the loss of soul within.
Lady Abbess lead the way,
Sister, check thy rising tear ;
Do not pity — rather pray;
She is lost to all but fear.
Press her body to the wall,
Leave unclosed a narrow space,
That she may hear our mercy call
From the priest in holy place.
1 From Mr. Veysey's Notes.
56
THE STORY OF PURTON
Scanty food may pass her lips,
Lengthen thus her parting wail,
This may plead in life's eclipse
When no other plea avail.
Seal the tomb, the mass is said
Ere the well-spread mortar dry,
We declare our daughter dead
Though we hear a muffled cry.
Four hundred years ! her bones are white,
Mute witness of barbaric creed,
\Vhere darkness brooded, till the night
Of Love Divine and fetters freed.
C. J. L ANGST ON.
But as we have already said, other places besides Purton
had these recluses, if such this mysterious woman was, who
of their own free will gave a vow to enter the cell and never
more to leave it. It was usual, but not necessary, for them to
belong to one or other of the religious orders.
The more or less solitary life of the anchoress or recluse
had at this time (A.D. 1373), as earlier, many followers in the
country parts and large towns of England. Few of the
women's " anchor holds " were in the open country, but many
churches of the villages and towns had attached to them a
timber or stone " cell," a little house of two or three rooms,
inhabited by a recluse who never left it, and one servant or
two for errands and protection. 1
Occasionally a little group of recluses lived together, like
those three young sisters of the thirteenth century, for whom
the " Ancren Riwle," a rule or counsel for Ancres, was at their
own request composed. The recluse's chamber seems to have
had generally three windows (as at Purton), one looking into
the adjacent church, so that she could take part in the services
there, another communicating with one of those rooms under
the keeping of her " maidens," in which occasionally a guest
might be entertained, and a third, the " parlour " window,
opening to the outside, to which all might come who desired
to speak with her.
1 From the Introduction to Revelations of Divine Love, by Julian of
Norwich, A.D. 1373.
57
THE STORY OF PURTON
According to the " Ancren Riwle," the covering screen for
this audience window was a curtain of double cloth, black,
with a cross of white, through which the sunshine would
penetrate, sign of " Dayspring from on High." This screen
could, of course, be drawn back when the recluse held a
" parliament " with any who came to her.
In Malory's Morte d' Arthur we read : " So he kneeled at her
window, and anon the recluse opened it, and asked Sir Perceval
what he would. ' Madam/ said he, ' I am a Knight of King
Arthur's court, and my name is Sir Perceval de Galis.' So
when the recluse heard his name, she had passing great joy of
him, for greatly she loved him before all other knights of the
world, and so of right she ought to do, for she was his aunt."
The vows taken by recluses ran in this fashion : " I offering
yield myself to the Divine Goodness for service, in the order
of anchorites, and I promise to continue in the service of God
after the rule of that order by Divine grace, and the counsel of
the Church, and to show Canonical obedience to my ghostly
Fathers."
The injunction given to the recluses in the " Ancren Riwle "
may still appeal to us, though six centuries have passed since
it was penned. It runs thus : " At some time in the day or
night, think upon and call to mind all who are sick and sorrowful,
who suffer affliction and poverty, the pain which prisoners endure
who lie heavily fettered with iron, think especially of the
Christians who are amongst the heathen, some in prison, some
in so great thraldom as is an ox or an ass ; compassionate those
who are under strong temptations : take thought of all men's
sorrows, and sigh to our Lord that He may take care of them
and have compassion, and look upon them with a gracious
eye, and if you have leisure repeat the Psalm ' I have lifted up
mine eyes,' and pray, ' Stretch forth oh Lord to Thy servants
and to Thy handmaids the right hand of Thy heavenly aid,
that they may seek Thee with all their heart, and obtain what
they worthily ask through Jesus Christ our Lord."
Then in "The Scale of Perfection," by Walter Hilton, who
died 1396, we read of " How an anchoress shall behave herself
to them that come to her " : —
" Since it is so, that thou oughtest not to goe out of thy house
to seek occasion how thou mightest profit thy neighbour by
58
THE STORY OF PURTON
deeds of charity, because thou art enclosed, . . . therefore
whoso will speake with thee ... be thou soon ready with
a good will to aske what his will is ... for thou knowest
not what he is, nor why he cometh, nor what need he hath
of thee, or thou of him, till thou hast tried. And though
thou be at prayer, or at thy devotions, that thou thinkest
loth to break off, for that thou thinkest that thou oughtest not
to leave God for to speake with anyone, I think not so in this
case, for if thou be wise, thou shalt not leave God, but thou
shalt find Him and have Him, and see Him in thy neighbour,
as well as in prayer, only in another manner.
" If thou canst love thy neighbour well, to speak with thy
neighbour with discretion shall be no hindrance to thee . . .
if he comes to tell thee his disease [distress] or trouble, and to
be comforted by thy speech heare him gladly, and suffer him
to say what he will, for ease of his own heart, and when he hath
done, comfort him, if thou canst, gladly, gently, and charitably,
and soon break off — and then after that, if he will fall into idle
tales, or vanities of the World, or of other men's actions,
answer him but little, and feed not his speech and he will soon
be weary, and quickly take his leave." l
Everyone knew old Mrs. Cook and her husband, who for
so many years lived in the Lodge at Purton House. The
likeness opposite shows what a fine old woman she was,
patience, goodness and many other virtues having stamped
themselves in the lines which Time had written so freely on
her face. Old Cook Was very deaf, and speaking of this in-
firmity, she once said, " It is hard on John, why I has to kick
'un to wake 'un." On one great occasion in their uneventful
lives they were taken up to London by Major Prower. Old
Cook was adorned in a brand new flowered waistcoat. What
puzzled Mrs. Cook was the endless flow of people in the streets,
and she remarked, " Hadn't we better stand in a doorway till
the crowd is past ? " Doubtless her one day in London was
never forgotten, and what she did and saw there was an oft-told
tale ; but still she would have maintained against all comers
that " London was all very well, but give / Purton for pleasure."
1 MSS. in British Museum, edited by Grace Warrack..
59
THE STORY OF PURTON
like the historic lady from Peebles. She had a great grief in
the sudden death of her daughter in 1911, and the old couple
then left Purton, ana lived with a married daughter in
Swindon till both passed away at a ripe old age.
These old Purton folk have seen wonderful changes since
their young days, when no G.W.R. Works in Swindon
existed, and Purton was a sleepy hamlet much as it had been
for five hundred years and more. It is a thousand pities that
when houses were wanted for the Great Western employes
the style of the village was not considered, and that the
uncompromising red brick was substituted for the more dignified
stone. What good advice he gave who once said, " Have
nothing inside or outside your house unless it is useful or
beautiful." If this were done, how much that to-day offends
the eye and taste would not be seen. No horrible little terra-
cotta faces would leer at us above doorways and windows, or
eruptions of coloured tiles disfigure the walls. Inside a good
print or two of well-known fine pictures would sweep away
glaring atrocities in colours quite untrue to nature, and the
plush bracket and tawdry mirror would give place to the fine
old brass candlesticks, the grandfather's clock, and the copper
warming-pan gleaming in the firelight, which in the old
days gave such charm and beauty to a simple home. Yes,
" useful or beautiful " is a very good rale and well worth
remembering, though of course good taste has to be cultivated
like other virtues. Still, there is no use in being like Mrs.
Dombey, " who died for want of making an effort," and at least
we can all do our best, according to the light that is in us.
A line in the Purton record of past years may well be written
on Henry Telling, of Pavenhill, who died in 1916, aged 87 years.
For a quarter of a century he had dug the graves, and was
much esteemed by the Prower family and other neighbours
in his native village.
The Commissioners of Edward VI. found a very small
quantity of plate when they visited Purton.
There is a chalice weighing 4 oz. and i| oz. " for the King."
The stem, base and cover are certainly nearly one hundred
years older than the bowl, and in all probability belong to an
Elizabethan chalice of circa 1575, the bowl of which was altered
in 1666. On the rim round the paten cover is inscribed,
60
THE STORY OF PURTON
" John Gillum and William Shermur, Churchwardens of Purton
1666."
A paten resting on a foot, circa 1708, has inscribed underneath,
" The gift of Fanny Righy, 1820." She was the eldest daughter
of Robert Prbwer, M.D., and married the Rev. Hew Righy,
Vicar of Hockley, dying in 1827. A modern service, chalice,
paten and cruet-shaped flagon, inscribed, " Presented by
Cornwallis and Anne Wykeham-Martin, a thankoffering for
many mercies 1872," completes the collection.
Old Mrs. Jefferies told the writer recently a story of Mr.
Wykeham-Martin 's kind consideration for his poor neighbours.
Her old mother was wheeling a heavy barrow to the station,
and seeing that she seemed tired, Mr. Wykeham-Martin took
the barrow from her and wheeled it down himself, calling to
mind what Shakespeare wrote so long ago : " How far this little
candle throws its beams, so shines a good deed in a naughty
world."
Mrs. Wykeham-Martin was a lady of much charity, and
during her long and trying illness she diligently made warm
garments for the poor.
The Cottage Hospital was built at the expense of this
family for the village, but it is no longer in use as such, for
the patients are now sent to the more commodious Victoria
Hospital in Swindon.
61
CHAPTER VIII
OLD TITHES AND PORTIONS — CRICKET — MILLS — CHARITIES
THE tenure of the Abbey of Malmesbury of these lands (of
Purton, etc.) extended over a period of more than eight centuries,
but of the Saxon times we know nothing. During the reign of
Edward I. the rent roll was taken in full. The Abbot received
a large portion from both sources (spiritually and temporally),
the remainder of the spiritualities were divided between the
Chamberlain and the Pittancer, the Prior and the Cook sharing
the smaUer part of the temporalities. The division between
the two last seems to have been somewhat curious, for the Cook
received ten times as much as the Prior, although that official
ranked next in authority to the Abbot, and held the first place
in Choir, Chapter and Refectory.
Then there were also other dues to be paid by the manor
for Peter's Pence and Pannage, for Church Scot in fowls and corn,
dues too of fowls at Christmas, and eggs at Easter. Most of
the holders oi land were tenants under the Abbey. Thus in the
" Nomina Villarum " the Abbot of Malmesbury is returned as
the only landowner in Purton against whom a writ of military
summons can be issued.
There is a grant of tithes made, we read, by Thomas, son of
Adam de Peritone, in the early part of the thirteenth century.
The acquisition of the Rectory and the pension granted to
the retiring priest are interesting, in charters dated 1276-77.
In the case of the Rectory, an addition at the end of the record
furnishes us with the price paid for it, and as this exceeds
only by 10 marks its (given) annual value, it went cheap.
The Rector's pension was £20, and later commuted to 200 marks.
In 1530 (two hundred and fifty years later the Rectory
was valued at £59 los. od., the earlier having been £13 8s. 5d.,
not including payment in corn, fowl and eggs) forty-nine
tenants were on the rent roll. l
1 Wilts Notes and Queries.
62
THE STORY OF PURTON
At the Domesday Survey the Abbey possessed only one mill
in Purton, but during the abbacy of William of Colerne
a second mill with a pond was added, and in the rent roll two
mills are quoted. Abbot William claims our notice as an early
restorer of Purton Church, round which he erected a strong wall.
Another work of his in Purton was a stone-roofed grange —
probably Mrs. Walsh's great Tithe Barn. He also caused new
gardens to be laid out. In the paragraph that alludes to
Abbot William's work at Purton one new garden (unum novum
gardinum) and a lower garden were mentioned, and in that
lower garden two fishponds were constructed by his order, now
over six hundred years ago, doubtless those which still lie at the
foot of the vicarage garden. The late Vicar told the writer he
had seen a deed at Malmesbury granting (in thirteenth century)
the orchard to " the poor vicar of Purton."
The Workmen's Institute.
This was the gift in 1879 of Mr. James Sadler, and was built
on the site of an old and dilapidated building, originally built
in 1770 for a school. The architect was Mr. Orlando Baker, of
New Swindon, and the builder Mr. James Grey, of Purton,
and the cost was £2,000. At the foundation ceremony, after
a prayer had been said by the Vicar, Mrs. Fisher laid the
foundation stone. Mr. MacKnight gave an address, saying
" he remembered when the villagers came to Church in their
clean white smock-frocks, but broad-cloth was now worn."
Underneath the foundation stone was placed a bottle containing
The North Wilts Herald, The Daily Telegraph, a few coins of
the realm, and a parchment with particulars of the donor.
The building was opened in 1880 by the Earl of Shaftesbury.
Purton Cricket Club is of far fame, and the site is one of
great beauty and extensive views. It was generously presented
to the Club by Mr. J. H. Sadler in 1911. Previous to this it
was part of the Purton House Estate, but cricket matches have
been played there for many a day, the first recorded match being
one between Lansdown C.C. and Purton C.C., which took place in
the year 1834. John Smith, of Ramsbury Manor, once walked
the eighteen miles to play, breakfasting en route at Swindon.
63
THE STORY OF PURTON
He scored fifty in his first innings, and a friend bet him he would
not repeat the feat in his second. He had forty-eight, and he hit a
two, but his partner ran one short, making him forty-nine, and
next ball he was out, so he lost his bet, but walked back
undefeated to Ramsbury. The Pavilion was erected in 1854. In
the year 1869 the old Club became defunct, for an Archery Club
flourished about the seventies for ten years or more. Mr. Clement
Scott, the author and dramatist, wrote in 1895 : "We were taught
to believe at Marlborough that the Purton Club was a kind
of divine Cricket Olympia."
Any reference to cricket at Purton would be incomplete
without the name of Mr. Hastings, who did so much for the Club,
taking both time and trouble to further its interests. Our
best batting average is held at present by Mr. Stephen Brown,
and the best bowling average by Mr. Haskins.
Purton Allotments.
These were obtained at the suggestion of Mr. Mac Knight
from the great and good Lord Shaftesbury in the year 1863,
and since then have been let to the surrounding inhabitants,
providing them with work in their spare time, and producing
vegetables for their families.
Near the allotments, at the Fox, is a quarry, on Mr. Sadler's
property, and from time to time interesting discoveries in
the shape of iron knives, swords and spears have come to light
there. The greatest find, however, was in the autumn of
1911, when several skeletons and an ancient sword were
unearthed. These are now carefully treasured in the County
Museum at Devizes.
The antiquary, Mr. B. G. Cunnington, writing in 1912
of the finds at the Quarry said : " There is little doubt that this
is a Saxon cemetery, as both the sword found last week and
the spear-head found to-day are without doubt Saxon."
A blue glass bead was also found, and Mr. Cunnington
refers to the above discoveries as " these most interesting relics
of Saxondom in Wiltshire."
Schools.
These were built in 1860 by the exertions of the Rev. Digby
Octavius Cotes, M.A., of Balliol College, Oxon., his wife,
64
THE STORY OF PURTON
Mrs. Cotes, and her two sisters, the Misses Bathe, contributing
largely to the cost. Mrs. Cotes also, at her own expense,
moved the Chapel of Ease at Braydon from its former site to
where it now stands. The family of Bathe has for many
centuries been connected with Purton. William Bathe in the
year 1664 was Vicar, and owned the Ponds Farm, then called
" the Mansion House at Stoake." A letter beginning " Good Mr.
Bathe " and signed " your very affectionate servant Clarendon "
shows he was on the best of terms with that most illustrious
of Purton families, the Hydes. The " Mansion House at
Stoake," as it stands to-day with the moat which still surrounds
it, was once the scene of a tragedy, as a little Bathe boy was
drowned in it.
The pretty picture of Purton Church (see p. 47) was picked
up at an old bookseller's, and sent to Wilts Notes and Queries,
and was identified as belonging to No. XXXVI. Marshall's
select views in Great Britain — published 1827 (Dec.) by
W. Marshall I. Holborn Bars. London. Printed by W. T. Ruffy
29. Budge Row. price 6d.
Mills.
There are two mills, and some controversy has arisen
as to which is the original Purton Mill. Both are on the banks
of a tiny tributary of the Thames which rises at Restrop,
passes the south wall of the churchyard, flows through the
grounds of Purton House, passes the old Milk House, and so to
Purton Mill, now in the occupation of Mr. and Mrs. Lewis.
Both the Purton Mill and at Mr. and Mrs. Greenham's farm
the Ridgeway Mill, about a mile to the east, are mentioned as
belonging to Malmesbury Abbey. Ridgeway as it now stands
is certainly not older than the time of Queen Elizabeth, and
Purton Mill has been entirely rebuilt during the last half century.
But when we take designs and situations of the Mills into
consideration we may gather some information. We conclude
that whatever collection of dwellings there may have been in
old days would be near the Church, market place, or some
social centre. Now a mill to be useful should be convenient
for those who wish to use it, and it seems probable that on
building a second mill it should be nearer or close to a good road,
in hopes of obtaining some advantage over the older mill,
and so procuring the desired custom. At Ridgeway the mill
THE STORY OF PURTON
pond is small, the stone escarpment very limited, while at
Purton Mill the pond is large, well made and extensively
edged with stone, and speaks of the handiwork of an able and
wealthy person, as Abbot William of Colerne is known to have
been. In the Malmesbury register it is spoken of as a fishpond,
and so evidently of sufficient importance. Thus we may assume
that the Wiltshire farmer who used the Ridgeway Mill may
have carried his corn to the identical spot to which his sturdy
ancestor the Saxon ceoil did more than a thousand years ago.
Purton Mill is recorded in Domesday Book, and was then valued
at 53. Millers were an ancient, jovial and well-to-do race, and
their calling went from father to son. In 1241 we find William,
son of Richard (presumably both millers), and John, Abbot
of Malmesbur}', mentioned in a " concord " wherein Purton Mill
and about 20 acres of land were granted to William and his
heirs for ever for the rent of 133. 4|d. per annum. x A
document dated 1306 speaking of Purton Mill is extant. The
Ridgeway Mill ultimately passed into the possession of
Pembroke College, Oxon. *
Parish Charities.
Nevil Maskelyne, who died about 1679, charged the Pry
Pasture with a yearly payment of £5 to the poor of Purton,
and with a further payment of los. to a minister for preaching
a sermon on Good Friday.
deed's Charity.
Frances Gleed gave £200, the rents and profits to the poor
housekeepers of the parish not receiving weekly alms, IDS.
once a year. The poor relations of the benefactor living in the
parish should be preferred before others, whether they receive
weekly alms or not. The £200 was invested in land situate
at the Cross Lanes, on the north side of Hawk's Moor Lane,
two fields of pasture containing about 13 acres, called Poor's
Land. The Wilts and Berks Canal paid £10 down on taking
possession of a small portion of Gleed's Charity in 1816.
1 Reg. Malm., vol. ii., p. 320.
* Wills Notes and Queries.
66
THE STORY OF PURTON
Hiscock's Leaze.
In an Act of Parliament passed in 1795 we read that " in the
year 1778 it had been agreed at a lawful vestry that the rents
and profits of the late Hiscock's Leaze in the Common should
be given to the poor for ever, every year on Good Friday.'*
In Parliamentary returns dated 1786 the following charity
is mentioned : " Epaphroditus New, 1640, gave to the poor
£30 in money, producing £i 75. od. then land." The parish knew
nothing about this charity, but as Hiscock's Leaze is not men-
tioned, it might have been purchased with the £30 given by New."
Miriam Stevens left in 1723, at her daughter's death,
£17 os. od, " without deduction for ever," £16 os. od. to maintain
a schoolmaster to teach twenty poor children " reading, writing
and accounts," and los. for a sermon to be preached on Easter
Monday by the Vicar of Purton, the Rectors of Lydiard Millicent
and Lydiard Tregoze, yearly in their turns, and los. for a dinner
for the preacher, and the remaining los. to the schoolmaster,
for keeping a book with said sums, and the names of the children.
The Vicar and two Rectors to be trustees for ever, to render the
charity as beneficial as it could be. The money rolled up for
five years, when the Trustees obtained from Lord Shaftesbury
a lease of a house and garden (on the site of the present Institute)
for three lives for £25. They built a schoolroom adjoining with
the rent charge saved and some subscriptions. It all cost
£120. Two of the lives above mentioned were Thomas Plummer
and Richard Garlick Bathe. The Vicar chose the twenty
children who were educated free, and there were always
numerous applications ; the schoolmaster had in addition
about fifteen paying scholars.
Poor's Platt Charity.
In 1834 it was stated in a Parliamentary report that this
twenty-five acres of land was granted by King Charles by letters
patent to the poor of Purton Stoke, in lieu of their right of
feeding their cattle and picking wood in Braydon Forest,
at the time of the disafforestation. However, this was found
to be inaccurate, as they were given under a decree of the Court
of Exchequer dated November igth in the sixth year of King
Charles' reign. Another mistake occurred, in that the Charity
came to be applied to the whole of Purton, instead of Purton
67
THE STORY OF PURTON
Stoke alone, so after this the words " Poor of the hamlet of
Purton Stoke " were to be included in the new decree drawn
up in the reign of George II. It had also become habitual
to restrict the charity to about twenty-three inhabitants
whose houses were there at the date of this decree, and these
people had the nominating of the Trustees, and though new
houses were built, they refused to allow them to participate
in the charity. The Parish Council, soon after its establishment,
found out how matters stood, and discovered that some of the
recipients were in good circumstances and not subjects suitable
for relief at all.
Trustees were therefore appointed, and the letting of the
land takes place each year on the first Thursday after Old
Christmas (January 6th). It is carried out by the curious
ceremony of " Chalking the Bellows ! "
The bellows are taken round by the landlord of " The Bell "
at Purton Stoke, accompanied by one of the tenants of the
preceding year, who is given the option of making the first bid.
This is done by chalking the amount on the bellows. When
the bellows have been passed round the room three times
without an advance, on arriving the third time at the last
bidder he becomes the tenant for the ensuing year.
This custom has been observed for at least a hundred years,
probably for very much longer. The rents received in 1900 were
£13 and £15. There are no buildings, only pasture. The con-
ditions are that the grass may not be mown, but twice a year
the thistles must be cut. The tenant undertakes to keep
" mounds and fences " in repair, to pay all rates and taxes,
except the Thames valley drainage rate. He has to find a
surety for £20. No manure may be removed from the land.
£2 2s. od. is annually deducted for refreshments for the Trustees.
The poor recipients receive sums from IDS. upwards, according
to their circumstances.
Another curious way of auctioning land is by cutting
a candle one inch in length and lighting it, and as soon as this
is done the bidding begins. He whose bid is given as the
flame flickers out is the winner.
These old customs are interesting, and one would like
to know whether they are used in other districts beyond
Wiltshire and Gloucestershire.
68
•Ok
1'URTON HOUSE, WILTSHIRE, 1917, FROM "THE GREEN WALK."
THE GREAT CEDAR, PURTON HOUSE, WILTSHIRE.
CHAPTER IX
PURTON HOUSE — THE MANOR HOUSE
THE history of Purton House seems to be closely connected
with the old mill which stands about half a mile below, and
which in an Inq. P.M. of Henry Maskelyne 16 Chas. I. is called
Chester Mill, and elsewhere Chester's Mill, probably from the
name of the miller then in possession. At this time Purton
House appears to have gone by the name of Chamberlaynes,
and the property passed into the possession of Francis Goddard
under this title in the seventeenth century.
The Brydges family had been the owners when it passed
out of the hands of Malmesbury Abbey at the Dissolution of
the Monasteries, represented by Lord Chandos, of Sudeley. *
In the Wilts Arch. Mag., vol. xxx., we find an article,
" Purton, A Case in the Star-Chamber," and in it we read that
the tithes of the Manor of Purton pertained to the office of the
Chamberlain of Malmesbury Abbey. From this we may assume
some connection between this ancient house and the tithes
collected for the Chamberlain of Malmesbury Abbey. Possibly
the tithes were brought there to the Chamberlain, and hence the
name.
Anyhow, the site is one of great antiquity, and many a
century has passed since the first stone was placed in position ;
it must be at least two hundred years since the wonderful
elms in the park and pleasure grounds were planted.
The name of Chamberlaynes appears to have been given up
when the Goddards took possession about the middle of the
seventeenth century, and Purton House has been the name
certainly for the last two hundred years.
The earliest deed extant is dated 1698, and an interesting
map, drawn a few years later, with its " kitching and little
gardens," coppices and fishponds, shows the house to have been
similar in shape to the charming pencil sketch drawn by
1 John Aubrey, see Chapter iv.
69
THE STORY OF PURTON
Mrs. Story-Maskelyne about a hundred years afterwards. These
fishponds were three in number, and bear out the idea of
monastic ownership, as, always wise and provident for their
creature comforts, the old monks' well-known rule and custom,
was to have three ponds to be used in rotation to hold their
fish, one of the three ponds being annually drained and sown
with a crop to keep all fresh and wholesome, and ensure no
possible sediment remaining at the bottom.
When the present owner took possession in 1911 he found
a charge of us. a year payable to no less than seven different
persons in the shape of a fee-farm rent, and the schedule relating
to it ran as follows :—
" Wilts No. 248.
" All that annual or fee-farm rent of us., issuing or payable
out of, or for Purton House, Purton, in the County of Wilts
(formerly part of the possessions of the late Monastery of
Malmesbury)."
If interesting from age, it was a tiresome transaction, and
so for the sum of £16 " the seven " were induced to abandon
their claim, and the new owner obtained an indefeasible title,
which had not been enjoyed since the Dissolution of the
Monasteries. The underground stream, which, after flowing
through the fishponds in the vicarage garden, wends its way
under the road and beneath the present-day kitchen garden
at Purton House, has a sluice arranged to feed the lake when
desired, and this is probably part of the old water system,
when the mill below was an object of some importance, and
is mentioned as such in the Domesday Book.
Francis Goddard, was followed by Edward Anthony and
Richard, of whom we have already given some particulars,
and after their day the place passed through the hands of
many owners, as some say Church lands are wont to do.
The deeds tell the story of sales, mortgages, and leases ; truly,
amidst the cloud of words and " vain repetitions " it is no
easy task to discover what is doubtless of interest to record.
In the old days the orchard was much larger, stretching almost
half-way across the present park, and the ridge of its
boundary fence can now be plainly seen, four huge trees
marking the upper line. The coppices, which now are divided,
70
THE STORY OF PURTON
were formerly joined in a continuous line across the top of the
park.
In a deed of sale of the property of Mrs. Sarah Miles to
Horatio Nelson Goddard, in 1840, the house is referred to as
" All that newly built capital messuage, tenement or dwelling
house," and also speaks of the older house as " that ancient
messuage, etc.," which was "taken down." Later in this
voluminous deed a reference is made to " all the Close, pick, or
parcel of pasture ground, commonly called the Coneygar, and
two Coppices . . . the Coneygar being now flooded and
covered with water."
The word " Coneygar " means in old English a rabbit warren,
so apparently the bed of the present lake was once the haunt
of the coney, long since departed.
From the deed just mentioned it therefore appears that
certainly the principal rooms were built in the thirties, and the
fine porch with its Ionic pillars on the western side of the house
took the place of the older eastern entrance, when the drive
had run across the Home Close to the Highworth Road with a
graceful curve.
It seems that the centre of the house was left intact, except
for the rooi, when this demolition took place, as in the room
which is now used as a library, and was formerly the servants'
hall, a different style is found, and the wall to the adjoining
room measures nearly four feet in thickness ; also the appearance
of the house outside in this part (and the bedrooms above) is
similar to what we see in Mrs. Maskelyne's sketch. The servants'
wing was added by Major Prower, with the offices below, in 1863.
Old Mrs. Selwood, still alive, clearly remembers the building
of the house, and relates that while this was in course of erection
the family lived in the older wing, which ran in the direction of
the kitchen garden, and was taken down in its turn when the
mansion was fit for habitation. Events make a marvellous
impression on a child's brain, and though nearing her centenary,
she can still talk and tell of what must have happened at
least ninety years ago.
After the Prowers' day the Rajah of Sarawak, who had
married a Wiltshire lady, Miss de Windt, bought Purton House ;
but it is said the church bells got on the Ranee's nerves,1
1 At that date the bell was tolled all day when a parishioner died.
71
THE STORY OF PURTON
and so they only stayed a short time. The Russell family
took a lease from the Rajah, and at last purchased the place
in 1899. Miss Russell having bought Red House, went to live
there in 1908. The present owner made many interior, altera-
tions to bring things up to modern requirements, and relieved
the house from a dense mass of trees and shrubs which had
surrounded it. He formed the terrace round the south front,
took in 'a considerable piece of the Home Close as pleasure
ground, planting a yew hedge in 1915, and in the preceding
autumn laid out the beginning of the rose garden with its paved
walks, gay with rock plants, and a stone dial to mark " only the
sunny hours." When planting shrubs opposite the garden
wall a few years ago an old key was dug up, which was of such
a quaint shape that the writer took it up to London to show to
the expert at the Victoria and Albert Museum. He pronounced
it to be fourteenth century, and one of the earliest of keys. A
silver token was dug up in the yard, and many copper coins
of various dates have come to light.
The Green Walk, so called in the old deeds, runs along the
entire length of the lake, which is about two acres in extent,
with a stoned-faced ha-ha, and is shown exactly as at present
in a prettily coloured map dated 1824.
In ancient days the " way in " was by the side walk, now
called the " Monk's Walk," with its ivied wall and clipped yew
hedge, a grateful shade on a summer day. It would indeed be
difficult to find a more peaceful scene than when from the
Green Walk by the large Irish yew, on a still evening in June
one looks across the lake at the venerable grey towers and spire
of the grand old Church, which with the copper beech, the
great cedar, and Purton House itself, lie mirrored in the still
waters. This great cedar was planted by Sir George Hayter,
the famous early Victorian portrait and historical painter.
He was staying at Purton House about seventy years ago in
order to paint Major and Mrs. Prower's pictures, and so com-
memorated his visit. The story goes that some goats, trespassing
where they should not, nibbled the top off the young tree, the
result being that, failing its leader, the tree broke out into
what became the fourteen mighty limbs of later days.
Sir George Hayter also painted the portrait of Canon
Prower, which now hangs at Sissells, a pleasant picture and,
72
THE STORY OF PURTON
it is said, an excellent likeness. One old John Templer, who
knew him well, remarked when shown the picture that " it
looked as if ' Passon ' had had a glass of wine."
In this connection a story told recently by an old inhabitant
may be given. He said that in the good old days Major Prower
held a temperance meeting at Purton House (which cause he
had much at heart), and that after tea he stepped out of the
dining-room window and addressed the meeting as follows :
" I like my glass of beer, and I like to see my men enjoy it."
This was all the old man remembered, though doubtless Major
Prower had more to say which is not recorded.
The present owner, Captain Arthur Percy Richardson, is
an Ulsterman by birth, his family having settled there in the
days of the famous Plantation, from the borders of Oxfordshire
and Warwickshire, where his ancestor, the Rev. John
Richardson, M.A. Oxon., held considerable "landes" in the
sixteenth and seventeenth centuries around Mollington.
Captain Richardson served for eight years with the 5th Batt.
Royal Irish Rifles, and on the outbreak of war offered his
services in any capacity to the War Office. He was appointed
Adjutant to the National Reserve at Swindon, and after five
months' voluntary work there re-enrolling reservists, he was
offered the command of a company in the loth Batt. The Suffolk
Regiment, in which he served for six months, a medical report
preventing his going, as he hoped, to France.
His two surviving sons are :
Edmond St. John, who served with the Wiltshire Yeomanry
during the Great War as a trooper until rheumatism obliged
him to leave. He had previously held a commission for four
years in the Denbighshire Hussars Yeomanry.
Arthur Kenneth, commands a company in the 3rd Batt.
Royal Welch Fusiliers, having served in the trenches in France
with the immortal 7th Division for seven months in 1914-15,
and taking part in the Battle of Festubert, when he commanded
the trench-mortar guns in the 22nd Brigade, and was one of five
officers left in the regiment after the battle.
Capt. A. P. Richardson is a member of the Carlton Club,
and was formerly Master of the Old Killultagh Harriers in County
Antrim.
A few touching lines are to be seen on a grey headstone in
73
THE STORY OF PURTON
the churchyard, of one William Andrews, who with his " kind
master true " laid out the woodland walks at Purton House. *
" Here sleepeth one who lived devoid of all,
Hasty in word, but very kind of heart,
Skilled in business, giving all their due,
Honest and just, to his kind master true,
Rejoicing in the Park, and Lake, and Shade
Of woodland paths, he and his master made,
Wife, children, neighbours, bless his Christian end.
And mourn the loss of husband, Father, Friend."
Died June ist 1847 — born 1777.
In Gary's B New Itinery of the Great Roads with Noblemen's
and Gentlemen's seats of England and Wales and parts of Scotland,
we find Purton House described as "on the right of Purton
Street," and as the residence of Dr. Richard Goddard. This looks
as though the Church was considered the centre of the village,
as only passing in that way along the Highworth Road could
Purton House be so described. Lydiard Park is said to be
" on the right of Hooke Street." Even in these days of finger-
posts at all the corners, it is no easy task sometimes to find the
way, and with only Gary's book to guide one it must have been
puzzling indeed, for as to which is the right-hand side remains
an open question. Possibly the traveller when taking directions
always faced due north.
The Manor House.
This fine specimen of the smaller type of manor house stands
close to the Church, and with it forms one of the most charming
groups of buildings in North Wilts. The property belonged
to Malmesbury Abbey before the dissolution of the religious
houses, and the names of the last tenants of this great mitred
house, Bennet and Joy, are preserved to us in the case brought
by them in Star-Chamber against Sir Edmond Bridges, some of
the details of which may be found in another chapter of this book.
" The Mancion House " mentioned in these proceedings
must have had a very different appearance from that of to-day,
for it was practically rebuilt about the end of the sixteenth
century by Lord Chandos, who then owned the property.
He seems to have sold it a little later to Sir John Cooper, who
1 Also at Red Lodge. * Published September ist, 1792.
74
THE MAN'OR HOUSE, PLJRTOX, NORTH FRONT, LOOKING SOUTH-WEST.
THE MANOR HOUSE, I'URTON, SOUTH FRONT.
THE STORY OF PURTON
married the heiress of Sir Anthony Ashley, of Wimborne St.
Giles, and was the ancestor of the Earls of Shaftesbury. His
son was Lord Chancellor to Charles II., and the "Ashley"
of the Cabal Ministry. It is not known how many of this family
actually resided at the Manor House, but in the eighteenth
century the Honourable Maurice Ashley (who had dropped
the name of Cooper) lived here with his wife, Katherine Popple,
and they lie buried in the Church, and are commemorated by a
tablet with a Latin inscription on the chancel wall. After
this the house seems to have been used exclusively by tenants
renting the land from the Shaftesbury family, and it was
probably during this period that the house was fitted up
internally to meet the requirements of an ordinary farmhouse.
In 1892 Lord Shaftesbury sold all his Purton estates, and
the house and land, then known as the Church Farm, were
bought by Mr. Charles Beak, a native of Purton, who emigrated
to Mexico, and there made a sufficient fortune to enable him to
purchase the property which he knew so well in his boyhood.
On his death, in 1900, the Manor House and land adjoining
were sold by the representatives of the Beak family to Mrs.
Walsh, widow of Arthur Francis Walsh, of the Hoystings,
Canterbury.
Though outwardly the house was altered as little as possible,
internally the changes made were considerable. On the ground
floor the small lobby, hall, and parlour adjoining were knocked
into one to make a lounge hall, the north wall of the parlour
being removed to give access to an oak staircase which took the
place of a small deal one that rose abruptly from the front door
to the first floor passage. A drawing-room was obtained by
knocking into one two small rooms which had been used for
farm purposes for over a century. In this room and in the
hall and dining-room open fireplaces were built. The chief
alteration outside was the addition of a small wing on the north
side of the house and the removal of some unsightly outbuildings.
During Mr. Beak's ownership the brick chimney stacks, which
to judge from an old drawing must have been a conspicuous
feature of the house, were lowered, as from want of repair he
considered it advisable to reduce their height, some of the
brickwork having fallen in a gale.
The gardens surrounding the house were all laid out after
75
THE STORY OF PURTON
Mrs. Walsh had bought the place. Steeple Piece, the field at
the back, was turned into pasture and a belt of trees planted all
round. The old manorial dovecote which stood in the farmyard
was brought into the garden, pigsties and a large cart shed were
removed, lawns laid out, a pergola built, and a belt of trees
planted next to the churchyard. The great barn was repaired
and stabling made in part of it, the rick yard was quarried by
degrees and laid out as a kitchen garden. The old winnowing
shed projecting from the barn being unfortunately beyond
restoration had to be demolished, but the hatch through which
the sheaves were passed can still be seen in the wall of the barn.
Mrs. Walsh's son, Mr. Arthur Walsh, late R.N., has been
again serving his country during the war in connection with the
Navy, and Miss Walsh is untiring in her labours to help on all
good work in Purton.
Mrs. Walsh and she are expert gardeners, and their flower
borders and lawns are a picture of beauty. Overshadowed by
the lofty Church towers, and with the beautiful old house and
barn as a background, it all forms a delightful picture.
76
CHAPTER X
THE OLD VICARAGE — FACULTY FOR PURTON HOUSE PEW —
RESTROP HOUSE
IN 1912, the graveyard being full, it was decided by the
Bishop to move the existing vicarage, which, built time out of
mind, had gradually become surrounded on three sides by
graves, making it impossible as a residence.
It had a pretty garden and fine shrubs, and the house,
though very old and inconvenient to modern ideas, was dearly
loved by our late Vicar. The writer well remembers the
tragic grief on his face when, meeting him one morning after
the demolition had begun, he remarked, " I have been to
see my house" He had lived there for over thirty years, much
beloved and respected, and it was hard to move in his later
life to new surroundings, and a real trial to him. The Vicar
always held that with the monastery at Purton House the
vicarage was the hospice, and there was one room there which
had evidently served as a chapel. A curious stone fire-place
was discovered built up in the wall of one of the rooms, and
also a pretty window-frame, both of which have been happily
utilised in the new building ; the latter is placed over the
entrance door.
It was thought that possibly some of the figures which
formerly had their places in the beautiful niches of the Church
might have been buried beneath this old house, but such, alas !
was not the case, only a few coins and some bones were brought
to light.
It must be many centuries since the garden surrounding
the old vicarage was made, and a fact that wants some explana-
tion is the frequent discovery of skeletons as the ground is dug
to form new graves. It seems to lend confirmation to the late
Vicar's theory that this building was the hospice, and possibly
the wayfarers from other parts of the country were laid to rest
there, and not buried in the ground belonging to the parishioners.
No skeletons were found in the newer upper portion, which did
77
not include the vicarage garden, but which has been taken into
the graveyard in recent years.
There is a curious tradition of an underground passage
from Purton to Malmesbury, and, strange to say, two years
ago, when Mrs. Dash's grave was being dug, an arched way
was come upon, apparently in the supposed line ; but this was
possibly a monastic water conduit, which was sometimes
brought for many miles in pre-Reformation days.
The larger houses in the old days held what were called
" faculties " giving a right to a pew in the Church, and one such
deed is in the possession of the owner of Purton House, granted
in 1698 under the seal of the Chancellor of the Diocese of Sarum,
and runs as follows : —
Robert Loggan Batchellour of Lawes and Chancellour of
the Diocess of Sarum ; To all Christian people to whom these
Presents shall come, sendeth greeting ; whereas request hath
been made to us on the part and behalf of ffrancis Goddard of
Pirton in the County of Wilts, and Diocess of Sarum Esq, that
the seats or pew built and situate in the South Isle of the Parish
Church of Pirton aforesaid, being six foot and half an inch in
length, and near about three foot in breadth, adjoining to
another seat belonging to the sd ffrancis Goddard on the East,
and the seats of Sir Anthony Ashley Cooper on the West, to
the Church wall on the South, and opening to the North (which
said seats for many years past hath been and now is in the
possession of the sd ffrancis Goddard) might be confirmed to
him, his heirs and assigns for so long as he or they occupy and
possess the House and Estate within the sd Parish of Purton
which he now enjoyeth, for himself or them his or their familys
to sitt stand and kneel in, to hear Divine Service and sermons.
Now know you, that we, proceeding herein as the Law in Church
rules directs and appoints, by issuing forth said Proclamation
under said seal of office bearing date the fourth day of February
last past, riteing [sic] and admonishing all Persons haveing any
right or interest in or to the same seats, to appear and sett forth
and propose forth their right or interest therein in due forms
of Law, if , any they have, which Proclamation being duly
executed, returned and verified to us, and noe Person appearing,
(excepting one John Eatell of the sd Parish, by his Proctor,
78
RESTROP HOUSE, PURTON.
The residence uf Colonel Canning, C.M.G.
THE MALI., KliSTKOP HOUSE, PURTON.
THE STORY OF PURTON
who after a competent terme assigned him, did not sett forth
or Propose any Right or interest in or to the same seats, but
rather declined all power thereto) , Doce of S Ordinary power and
authority, and as far as by the Ecc.ticall Laws we are enabled,
grant, verify and confirme the sd seats or Pew, situate as afore-
said, unto the sd ffrancis Goddard, for him, his heirs, and
Assigns, for long as he or they occupy or possess the House and
estate within the sd Parish of Purton which he now enjoyeth,
for himself or them, his, or their familys to sitt, stand, and
kneel in, to hear Divine Service and sermon without the Loss
hindrance, interruption or Disturbance of any Person or Persons
what soever.
In witness whereof we have caused the seals of our Office
to be affixed to these presents. Dated at Sarum thiss two
and twentieth day of March in the year of Our Lord God
One thousand six hundred ninety and eight, according to the
Style of the Church of England.
Ed. Thistlethwayte. Regius.
Honi Soit.
2 of these stamps 6d. each.
VI pence.
Restrop House.
" This house is as good and pure a specimen of Elizabethan
architecture as could be found," * built of stone, the roof of old
grey tiles with overhanging eaves, and with the fine transomed
windows, an especially picturesque effect is given to the front
or south side.
Like many other houses of the period, it was built in the form
of the letter E, a compliment we may suppose to the Queen.
It is said that Queen Elizabeth spent a night in it, but that is
scarcely likely, although she probably did see the house passing
on her way from Burderop to Cirencester.
The name is thought to signify red, and speaks of war and
1 Wilts Notes and Queries.
79
THE STORY OF PURTON
battle in bygone times. Sad to relate, the history of the house
seems to be buried and lost, and no information can be obtained
as to who built it, and of those who lived and died there during
the four hundred years of its existence.
Ringsbury Camp, not far away, is evidence of the importance
of the position from very early times, and there is a tradition
of a battle having been fought near by during the Wars of
the Parliament.
The names of " Battle Well " and " Battle Cottages " seem
to confirm this. Human skeletons and a stone cannon-ball
have also been found buried near the house. One cannot think
that the owners of Restrop dwelt unconcerned during such
a long and eventful period, and it is to be supposed that they
must have taken at least some small share in what was passing
around them.
Together with other property in the Parish of Purton,
Restrop belonged to the Shaftesbury family. It is not known
if any member ever resided there, but the coat of arms over
the entrance to the porch is the Ashley-Coopers'. How strange
it is that the first Earl of Clarendon, Lord Chancellor of England,
and his great political opponent the Earl of Shaftesbury should
have been near neighbours and adjoining landowners in this
quiet Wiltshire village. After being in the possession of the
Shaftesbury family for some two hundred and eighty years
the house passed into other hands, and was purchased by the
present owner, Colonel Canning, in 1912. He, with due
regard to the character and beauty of the house, has made it
his object to renovate and preserve the building, and to
restore it as much as possible to its original state.
Partitions put up in recent times have been removed, to
bring the hall to its former dimensions. A fine stone fire-place
has been uncovered, providing a hearth admirably fitted for
a fire of logs. The stone fire-places are a feature of the house,
as are the oak stairs.
In the drawing-room there is a good specimen of a Jacobean
fire-place. A small dais at one end and a " powder room," with
newly-found oak panelling, give an old-world effect, and an
endeavour in the style of furnishing has been made to bring all
into harmony.
Lieut.-Col. Canning is a Wiltshireman by birth, and a
80
THE STORY OF PURTON
collateral relation of the family of Lord Stratford de Redcliffe.
On the outbreak of war he rejoined the Army and commanded
a battalion in Gallipoli, including the far-famed evacuation,
and afterwards in the Arabian Desert. In recognition of these
services he received from His Majesty the well-earned decoration
of The Most Distinguished order of St. Michael and St. George.
He is at present serving in Ireland.
81
CHAPTER XI
WATKINS* CORNER — PRESENT-DAY RESIDENTS — PURTON STOKE —
" CURLY TOM "
ON the road to Purton Stoke is a sharp turn, almost describing
a crook, and a gruesome tale is told of the spot.
One Watkins was accused of having committed a murder,
and at this corner a gallows1 was erected (some say a tree
was used) and in full view of the public the last sad reparation
was exacted. Some time afterwards, the story goes, the father
of Watkins confessed that he, and not his son, was the guilty
person. A fearful thunderstorm raged after the hanging
took place, as though Heaven itself were raising a protest,
and folks say that the hangman's horse, taking fright on the
way home, upset the trap, breaking his master's neck.
A tale is also told of a sudden fire some years later, which
reduced to ashes the very gallows used and the shed wherein
it stood.
Of course, the corner was said to be haunted, and further
tragedy followed. One dark night some friends who had been
drinking were talking of Watkins, and one offered to bet another
that he would not dare to creep along the ditch and say, " Well,
Watkins, how are you feeling ? "
The bet was accepted, and unknown to him who took it up
another crept to the farther end awaiting his advent. When
the question was duly asked, the reply came, " Very cold and
miserable," and this was so terrifying, and also so unexpected,
that the unlucky sportsman, having a weak heart, collapsed
and died of fright.
These public hangings were considered a sight not to be
missed if it was possible to get there. North Wiltshire folk loved
to attend the Devizes Hang Fair as recently as the early part of
the nineteenth century. The late Rev. C. W. Bradford, 2 who
took his B. A. Degree at Oxford in 1852, used to tell his son-in-law
1 A Staley of Purton erected the gallows.
1 Vicar of Clyffe Pypard, 1863-1883.
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THE STORY OF PURTON
how he went up the tower of St. Peter-le-Bailey Church at
Oxford to get a good view oi a hanging, and the writer's father
used to relate how, when driving on his father's (Sir James
Stronge) coach, which was called " the '74," he saw the dead
body of a man hanging on a gibbet at Shrewsbury, who had been
executed for highway robbery. This was in the year 1836.
Miss Prower remembers that her grandfather, Canon Prower,
as Vicar, was obliged to attend Watkins' execution, and to read
the last solemn service over the unfortunate condemned man.
The book which he used on this occasion was a small Prayer
Book, now at Sissells, and on the fly-leaf is the following
inscription : —
" Robert Watkins of the Burrough of Wootton Bassett read
from this book the 108 Psalm, when on the Scaffold for the
murder of Stephen Rodway of Cricklade Friday July 30th.
1819.
" JOHN MERVIN PROWER."
The Prayer Book was published in London in the year
1787, and an asterisk on the exhortation which begins " Dearly
beloved " points to a note below as follows : —
" This exhortation is fraught with preparatory instruction
to worship Jehovah in spirit and in truth."
It is strange to hold the little volume in one's|hand open
at the io8th Psalm, and to think of Watkins' feelings as he read,
" Awake, thou lute, and harp : I myself will awake right early "
with the noose already round his neck ! In the thirteenth verse
there was more suitable expression to his desperate situation,
" O help us against the enemy : for vain is the help of man."
Stranger still to relate, Canon Prower allowed his seven-
year-old son, afterwards Major Prower, to be brought as a
spectator, and even held up by the gardener " to get a better
view ! "
All praise to those who put a stop to such spectacles in
the ensuing years, for surely such sights must have only
pandered to an unhealthy taste for horrors, though doubtless
well meant as ar deterrent to evildoers.
Old Mr. Lewis says he remembers Canon Prower's four-
wheeled shaj' in which he used to drive himself about when Lewis
83
THE STORY OF PURTON
was a little boy. It had a seat facing the driver and one behind,
and on the front seat he always had three baskets, which the
children knew well, for one contained apples, one sweets,
and one coppers, which the old gentleman used to throw to
the children to scramble for, amidst shouts of laughter from him-
self and them. " Oh, we all knew his carriage," Lewis said,
chuckling to himself at the recollection of those far-off days.
Mr. Lewis' mother, who was a Daniels, often told her sons
•of the wonderful assemblage on the day John Watkins was
hanged. The condemned man was brought past Purton House
and round by the churchyard to the place of execution, while
the tenor bell tolled its solemn chime for the dread ceremony
about to take place. She said that the body was taken when
life was extinct to where Mr. Greenaway's farm now is, and a
post-mortem was performed, and then it was returned to be
buried at Watkins' Corner. The crowds that gathered passed
all records, and his clothes seem to have been greedily seized
upon as souvenirs, one man even boasting that he had worn his
boots, while an old woman used to show his braces carefully
rolled in paper !
Mr. Pedley remembers that his old gardener, Wilton by name,
used to boast that he had walked all the way from Bibury and
back to see poor Watkins hanged, and he always spoke of the
terrible thunderstorm which raged that day.
This Wilton's brothers, three of them, all fought and fell
in the Peninsular War, which fact forms an interesting link with
the past.
Passing on, we arrive at Purton Stoke, with its pretty
picturesque cottages dotted about irregularly, and on the
right-hand side there stands the comfortable reading room,
painted a cheerful green and white, which was erected some
eight years ago by the exertions of Mrs. Warrender, assisted
by contributions from various friends. It is an inestimable
boon to the villagers on winter evenings, and on Sundays is
used for the Church services.
Turning to the left, we find a charming old-world spot,
Stoke House, part of it built, it is said, in the time of Charles II.,
surrounded by rose gardens in summer, and brilliant in spring
time with daffodils and other bulbs. This is the residence
of Miss Warrender. Miss Alice Warrender is the second daughter
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THE STORY OF PURTON
of the late Sir George Warrender, 6th Baronet, and sister of
the late well-known Admiral of the same name. The latter's
widow is a sister of the present Earl of Shaftesbury.
Debrett tells us that this family is of French extraction,
formerly de Warende, which settled in Scotland temp. James V.
Miss Warrender was for several years Vicar's Churchwarden
to Purton Parish, and takes a deep interest in all that tends to
the welfare of the neighbourhood. In peace time she was a
keen follower of the V.W.H. Hounds.
The Salts Hole.
Quoting from The Leisure Hour in 1861, we find as follows :
" A valuable mineral water has been discovered near Purton,
and the analysis shows that this water was rich beyond all
precedent in sulphates, carbonates, clorides, phosphates, iodides,
and bromine, with sulphuretted hydrogen, and a very large
amount of free carbonic acid gases, and that a similar water is
unknown in England or the Continent.
" The spa is marked by a small octagonal building in a field,
time out of mind it has been called the Salts Hole. The poor all
resort to it and value it highly, but the local gentry and doctors
placed no value upon it. Mr. S. C. Sadler, who had owned the
spot for fifteen years, thought it a nuisance, as it flooded the
lane in the winter months. At this the poor bitterly exclaimed,
" You are taking our physic from us, whatever shall we do when
it is gone ? You may say it is no use, but we know it is, and our
fathers before us."
The story goes on to tell how their pleading was disregarded,
and the place was drained, and cartloads of soil thrown on the
spot ; but the spring remained unvanquished, and was sure
to reappear. Mr. Sadler then railed it round and put a lock
on the gate. But the poor neighbours were not to be done out
of their physic, which " always made them well," and used to
break the lock and take it as before.
" At last the owner had a serious illness, and remembering
the persistent faith of the poor in the despised spring, he
85
THE STORY OF PURTON
determined to try it himself, and found immediate benefit.
Two most eminent chemists were then asked to make an
analysis of the water. They found it to contain the two finest
salts, and specially rich in phosphate of lime, which being the
basis of bone, is specially good for sick children. Also they found
that it had none of the irritant properties of most other English
waters, and there is no English spring resembling it. When
the well was rilled in and destroyed the exact locality for a time
was doubtful, but a white surface on a slight sinking of the
earth pointed to a likely spot, a hole was made, and the
water came bubbling up, to the great joy of the neighbourhood.
This occurred in 1859. A pump and pump-room were then
scientifically erected" (and still remain).
" Many are the cures attributed to the waters, though a
neighbouring doctor jeeringly remarked, ' One can readily
compound the ingredients, we administer the same every day.' "
41 But," the account continues, " the ingredients may indeed be
known, but not the secret of their combination. The water
when bottled is so full of gas, an empty space must be left, or
the neck would burst, when corked under pressure it effervesces.
When exposed to the air it is in a state of ferment owing to
the explosion of the gas, and it has a milky appearance."
In a paper by Mr. S. C. Sadler, M.R.C.S., we read : —
" By the testimony of some old people now living in the
parish, it is certain that this mineral well was known and much
resorted to at a very remote period. Thus : —
"'Isaac Beasley, now (1860) in the 93rd year of his age, and
possessing extraordinary power of memory, and great physical
strength for his years, states that all his life he had been in the
habit, when out of health, of drinking this water, and it was
certain to put him right, and that his father took this water
as physic, and a vast number of folks in his young days took
this water for all manner of diseases, and it mostly cured them.
He heard his father say that often a great man came down
from Oxford, with a coach and four horses, to get some water
from the Salts Hole.' "
These facts would date some two hundred years back from
the present day.
The waters are to this day drunk by the country-folk as a
86
THE STORY OF PURTON
cure for many ailments, a cart full of bottles dispensing to the
customers who desire it.
Turning again sharply to the left brings us to Pond's Farm,
a very quaint and interesting old house, famous for having been
the residence of Bathes and Maskelynes in days gone by, and
called " The Mansion House at Stoke " in ancient deeds. Here
it was that Nevil Maskelyne lived, the great astronomer whose
mind was able to defy space and distance, weigh the stars,
and foretell the courses of the planets. It is now the residence
of Mr. and Mrs. Ponting, whose excellent cheeses are celebrated
far beyond Purton.
But we must retrace our steps, and climb the long Purton
Hill, passing the old toll-gate on the right and Purton Court
at the corner, now the residence of Mr. and Mrs. Bickford.
Passing the College Farm brings us to " The Cedars," the
residence of Mr. and Mrs. John Fox. Everyone was glad to
welcome them back from Australia in the autumn of 1916,
after an absence of three years. He is the owner of extensive
cattle ranches in Queensland, and pays them periodical visits.
He served in the South African War with the Australian1
contingent, and is a Hampshire man by birth ; his elder brother
is the owner of Adbury Park, near Newbury. Mrs. Fox is
descended from the old Puritan family of Winthrop. Her
ancestor was the famous John Winthrop, who, when the question
of emigration " to a land in the West where religion and liberty
could find a safe and lasting home " * arose, said : " I shall
call that my country where I may most glorify God, and enjoy
the presence of my dearest friends." The emigrants during
this time were many of them men of large landed estates,
shrewd London lawyers, or young scholars from Oxford.
" Farewell, dear England ! ' ' was their cry as the ships bore
them from these shores to the unknown country across the wide
ocean.
" Our hearts," wrote John Winthrop 's followers to those
left behind, " shall be fountains of tears for your everlasting
welfare, when we shall be in our poor cottages in the wilderness."
Many died miserably of cold and discomfort in the first
terrible winter. A letter from Winthrop runs thus : " I thank
1 In the Queensland Mounted Infantry.
2 Green's History oj the English People, p. 493.
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THE STORY OF PURTON
God I like so well to be here, as I do not repent my coming.
I would not have altered my course, though I had foreseen all
these afflictions, I never had more content of mind."
Three thousand Puritans arrived there from England in
a single year. Laud's persecutions led to their abolishing
Episcopacy, and abandoning the use of the Book of Common
Prayer.
Green tells us that " between the sailing of Winthrop's
expedition and the assembly of the Long Parliament, that is ten
or eleven years, two hundred emigrant ships had crossed the
Atlantic an,d twenty thousand Englishmen had found refuge
in the West."
But a day of retribution was coming, and in 1644 " King
Pym's" ride over England on the eve of the elections for the
Long Parliament brought new life to England, and stopped the
tide of emigration, for as Winthrop wrote," The change made all
men to stay in England in expectation of a new world."
A very charming collection of family letters is still preserved,
telling of all the difficulties and dangers, fateful decisions,
and cruel partings, which the Winthrop family endured for
conscience' sake.
Passing on, we come to a picturesque house in the Georgian
style, with a high roof and grey stone slates. This is " The
Close," the residence of Mr. and Mrs. John Brown. Mrs. Brown's
father, the Rev. Walter Mitchell, was a former Vicar of Purton,
and Mr. Brown's maternal ancestors (the Bathe family) have for
many generations been well known in the district.
Two sons are now lords of the Manor of Purton Keynes,
and a third is fighting in Egypt.
All Purton knows what a good friend Miss May Brown is,
and her sister, Miss Lily Brown, has for several years now been
nursing wounded soldiers at Cheltenham. Another daughter,
Mrs. Plummer, lives at Wroughton.
Miss Ruck, though rarely seen, still remembers her old
friends, and lends a kindly hand to those in distress.
Miss Maud Prower lives at Sissells, a little farther on,
a quaint and pretty old house, with a glorious view on the north
side extending far away, to the Cotswold Hills.
The name Sissells doubtless comes from a former owner,
one Joan Sistell, widow, who in 1640 held a close and pasture
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THE STORY OF PURTON
in Purton, 1 and in the later Inquisition we find that " William
Digges held in Purton . . . two grounds, called Sissells
hills, and forty acres of arable lying in Battlefeeld, alias
Bettlefeeld."
Mr. and Mrs. Pedley are well known in the neighbourhood,
having moved here from Latton some years ago.
Mrs. Sayer lives at Longcroft. Her husband, the late
Captain Sayer, took a leading part in Purton village in bygone
days.
Mrs. Charlton 2 and her daughters live at " Hillside," and are
interested in all social work.
Mrs. and the Misses Redman, at Churchfield Lodge, are
interested in nursing and Foreign Missions.
Red House with its charming grounds is the home of Miss
Russell. She has been for two years the Commandant of a
Convalescent Home for wounded soldiers at Reading, having
also helped to run a canteen there.
The principal landowners in Purton are James Henry
Sadler, D.L., Mr. C. D. Hey cock and Mrs. Story -Maskelyne.
The population in 1911 was 2,645 in the ecclesiastical
parish.
There is a Congregational Chapel, built in 1829, with 120
sittings, and there are also Wesleyan and Primitive Methodist
Chapels.
Mrs. Plummer, who lives in the Lower Square, used during
her husband's lifetime to live at the Manor House. One of her
sons is now serving his country in her hour of need.
Mr. A. H. Dunn is the licensed lay reader of the parish,
and he officiates every Sunday in Braydon Chapel of Ease.
He is a gifted preacher, and in peace time held a weekly
Bible Class for men at the Institute, which was largely
attended.
The Children's Home was built in 1914 by the Guardians
in the form of two labourers' cottages, so that if necessary in
later years the building could be easily divided, and used to
accommodate two families. At present (1917) sixteen children
are being trained there to become useful citizens.
i Wilts Inq. P.M., ch. i., p. 302.
? A daughter of Admiral Dent, by his wife, the Lady Selina Hastings.
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THE STORY OF PURTON
There is a saying that " you can live as long as you like
in Purton," on account of its excellent reputation for health
and freedom from infectious complaints. There does seem to
be something in it, as great ages are attained, accompanied by
wonderful health and strength. Our late organist, Mrs. Smith,
who recently retired, had occupied her post for fifty years,
and was presented on her retirement with a purse of sovereigns
by the parishioners.
A well-known figure in Purton till recently was " Curly Tom "
(see p. 59). He used to say that his father and mother had
brought him to London from Norfolk as a baby. Anyhow,
he seems to have drifted down to Wiltshire, and for many years
had a regular beat as a pedlar, tramping round to dispose of
his wares to the willing country-folk.
He used to say that " people in his class " learned to read
and write in his young days, as they found it useful to their
customers, who were unable to do so. He was taught by having
sand spread on the top of a wooden box, and when smooth
the boy was given a skewer, and with it learned to form and
read letters on the sand. (This might prove a valuable
suggestion to the Education Authorities if the present scarcit}'
of paper should become acute.)
One felt he was one who might have made a better thing
of life had the chance come his way, as both in appearance and
manner he was superior to what one expects from such circum
stances. For many a year he tramped the country round, but at
last the years began to weigh upon him, for there is no cheating
old Time after all, and he used to come to the Workhouse
for the winter months, and when the days got longer, and
the trees put on their spring attire, " Curly Tom " would make
his appearance as usual before the Guardians, saying, " Good
morning, Gentlemen, I want to ask your help." Five shillings
was accordingly always given to him, and with this he sallied
forth to buy his stock-in-trade of pins, needles, bootlaces, etc. ;
and so well did he understand the wants of his district, that
by his trading he was able to entirely support himself, until
the shortening days and chilly nights warned him back to his
winter quarters in the Workhouse.
Born nine years before Waterloo, and at the age of 104 only
a little deaf, he was often to be seen sauntering along enjoying
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THE STORY OF PURTON
his pipe, which his friends saw to it should not want for tobacco,
and no one enjoyed a cup of tea more than he did, given with
a friendly word of greeting. " That is tea ! " he used to say
with great appreciation. The writer saw him at the point
of death, and his extraordinarily aged appearance then showed
that Time had not forgotten him, although his life had reached
so far beyond man's allotted span.
CHAPTER XII
PARISH LAWS, 1733 — SEVERE PENALTIES
IN a quaint old volume called Parish Laws, published in
the year 1733, there are some curious accounts of the duties of
Churchwardens, as " besides the care of the repairs of the Church
seats, Churchwardens are to see that all the parishioners duly
resort to their Parish Church, and there continue during the time
of Divine Service, to permit no Person to cover his head in
the Church, except he have some infirmity, and then with a
cap ; not to permit any to stand idle, walk, talk, or make any
noise in the Church, or to contend about places, and to chastise
disorderly boys, etc., also to keep excommunicated out of the
Church, and to allow no interludes, plays, feasts, Church Ales,
Musters, markets, temporal Courts or Leets, Lay Juries, or any
other profane usage to be permitted or allowed therein, also on
Sacrament days : to observe they that absent themselves from
it, and present them for the same at the next Visitation. Also
to see that all behave themselves orderly, soberly and reverently ;
kneeling at the prayers, standing at the Belief, bowing at the
name of Jesus, sitting or standing quietly and attentively at
the reading of the Scriptures."
One shilling was the fine imposed by the Justices for each
of the above offences, and also for, " ist, Absenting from Church,
2nd, Not abiding there till service and sermon were ended,
3rd, For not behaving orderly and soberly while there." Five
shillings was the fine for doing " any worldly work or business
on Sunday," but for trading or travelling on the Lord's Day the
fine was twenty shillings. If any butcher killed on Sunday
six shillings and sixpence was the forfeit, and for meeting at
bull-baitings, bear-baitings, interludes or Common Plays three
shillings and fourpence was the fine exacted. The money
derived from these sums to be applied to the relief of the poor ;
failing ability to pay, the offenders were to be put in the stocks.
Churchwardens also had as part of their duties to visit frequently
on Sunday ale-houses, and if they found any tippling to make
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THE STORY OF PURTON
them pay three shillings and fourpence and the master of the
house ten shillings, also five shillings for using trade, and if in
Church hours, another shilling each all round ; and then all
was not forgiven, for they were to be presented by the Church-
wardens at the next Visitation. Their powers also allowed the
Churchwardens " to present the Minister if he was not constantly
resident for doing his duty, or for leading a disorderly or
irregular life." However, if the parson was a proper man, he
was well protected, as the offence of disturbing or abusing
him while doing his duty was a serious matter. £10 for
the first offence, £20 for the second, and for the third the
offender should forfeit all his goods and chattels and be
imprisoned for life. No cursing or swearing was allowed, one
shilling or two shillings was the fine, and if under sixteen to
be whipped.
The fine for not coming to Church was £20, and if continued
for a year £20 for every month and two parts in three of his
or her estate, and to produce two sureties in £200 for future good
behaviour. Anyone who "is assaulted or beaten in Church,
is not to give back blows in his own defence, as he may do in
another place." For striking or laying hands on anyone in the
churchyard excommunication was imposed, " but if with a
weapon, or if only' drawn for that purpose, to lose one of his
ears." The poor are described as of two classes : ist, those who
are willing to work but are not able ; 2nd, those who are able
to work but are not willing. These latter could be sent by two
justices to the House of Correction. Churchwardens and
overseers could also be consigned to this terrible place for
"refusing to account, there to remain till they will." Boy
paupers were apprenticed till the age of twenty-four and girls
till twenty-one or marriage ; no apprentice might be older
than fifteen " when first bound." Rogues and idle people
were to be set to work, and " moderately whipped " or have
"fetters and gives" put on them. Persons receiving parish
relief were obliged to wear a badge on their right shoulder sleeve,
on refusal may be sent to the House of Correction for twenty-
one days at most, to be whipped and kept to hard labour ;
formerly they were burned on the left shoulder. Boys could
be apprenticed to sea service being ten years old and upwards
if likely to be a charge to the parish, who begged alms, or whose
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THE STORY OF PURTON
parents were chargeable, the apprenticeship to continue till
twenty-one years was reached.
The parish laws for labourers then were that " those that
work by day or week shall continue at work betwixt the middle
of March and the middle of September from 5 in the morning
till between 7 and 8 at night, except 2 hours for breakfast,
dinner and drinking, and £ an hour for sleeping," all the rest of
the year from twilight to twilight, on pain to have " one penny
defalked out of their wages for every houi's absence." All
artificers " had to work in haytime and harvest on pain of 2 days
and i night in the stocks, or 403. forfeit."
Beggars and vagabonds got a short shrift. " Anyone found
wandering, begging and misordeiing himself ... be ordered
to be openly whipped, until his or her body be bloody, or be
sent to the House of Correction, and be kept at hard labor at
the discretion of the justices." Those thought to be specially
dangerous got even worse treatment, for they " shall cause him
to be whipped three market days successively." No person
likely to live by begging could be brought into England by a
master of a ship from Ireland, Isle of Man, Jersey, Guernsey,
Scilly. £5 was the fine for bringing such a one, the intruder
was to be openly whipped and sent back to where he came
from. We have all heard of hue and cry, but one hardly realises
that not two hundred years ago a constable could call on
parishioners, after describing a felon, to assist in the pursuit,
and so on from constable to constable, town to town, and
county to county. Pursuers had the right to search suspected
houses and persons, and carry the latter to the justices to be
examined. Inhabitants of any hundred where hue and cry was
made and neglecting to pursue " shall answer of moiety of the
Damages " as a penalty, and also be " grievously fined and
imprisoned."
94
CHAPTER XIII
LYDIARD MANOR HOUSE — MR. MACKNIGHT — A GHOST STORY —
THE SMOCK-FROCK — "GRUBBING THE MOOTS "
ONE mile due south of Purton lies the picturesque village of
Lydiard Millicent.
Behind the beautiful church are the ruins of Lydiard Manor,
overgrown with ivy and the home of bats and owls.
This house has an interesting history, and was built by one
Robert Turgis in the year 1459. For four hundred long years
it stood there defying time and weather, until the fatal night
came when fire destroyed in a few hours its roof, floors, etc.,
leaving the walls standing as a melancholy reminder of
the past centuries, when it was a bright and beautiful
dwelling.
The Webbes had bought the property in 1576 from Robert
Turgis' " successors." William Webbe was a Catholic, and was
fined for harbouring recusant priests.
The description given by Mr. MacKnight of the house tells
us that the chapel was in the roof, over the drawing-room.
Behind the altar was a panelled door, which opened into two
other rooms without windows ; and behind the panelled door
was a chimney-stack, behind which two men could be easily
concealed. From the second room was a door into the other
wing of the house, the exit being through a panel like a
door of a raised cupboard, and by this it was possible to
go through other rooms to a staircase leading to the back of
the house.
It would seem that when the searching party surrounded
the house the priests were thus concealed, and made their way
out into the wood, where in a small clearing the foundations
of two small cottages have been discovered, which would afford
them shelter. They were not taken, but it is believed that
information was subsequently extorted which led to the
conviction for harbouring these plotters against the Government.
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THE STORY OF PURTON
The fine appears to have crippled the estate, which was
afterwards mortgaged, and in 1714 Sir John Askew, the
mortgagee, foreclosed and entered into possession. He built
the stabling and the barn, and laid out the garden on an
extensive scale ; but he is said to have speculated in the South
Sea Bubble scheme, and to have been unable to complete his
designs, of which more anon.
The Rev. William MacKnight was born in the year 1816.
A member of an ancient Scottish family, he began his life in
Wiltshire as tutor to the sons of the Earl of Suffolk at Charlton
Park.
From thence he moved to Purton, and with five pupils lived
there for a couple of years, before taking up his residence at
Lydiard Millicent.
While living at Purton, he wrote to his fiancee, Miss Davis :
" By the by, this is a very appetizing place. My housekeeper
says, ' Dear, dear, how much they (the pupils) do eat, sir, they
must be ill.' She has actually persuaded one of them to take
medicine for fear"
Mr. MacKnight loved his occupation, and threw his whole
heart into the work of training his pupils for the stern battle
of life. He writes : " I am fairly one of them, x not a vestige
of their tutor left." One good rule he made : " I never if I
can help it correct before people, it is most unwise to do so."
Sometimes he had very unpromising material to work upon,
for he writes of one as " the veriest dolt and lump I ever saw,
. . . cannot find his place in the Greek Testament, does not
know whether his father was ever at College, does not know
anything, in short . . . what am I to do with such an
article ? His family want him to go to College and be a lawyer !
I think I must try to be delivered from him if I can . . .
G is just the reverse, I call him ' Daydawn ' and the
other ' Midnight.' "
It was in December, 1851, that Mr. MacKnight left Purton
for Lydiard Manor, which he was to transform into a bright
and beautiful home. He married Miss Davis in the same year
at Bibury, and for many years lived a happy life with his pupils
in his glorious garden. As already mentioned, this famous
1 Amongst his pupils were General Sir Redvers Buller, Lord Frederick
Leveson-Gower, Mr. J. H. Sadler, etc.
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THE STORY OF PURTON
garden had been laid out in Queen Anne's day, by Sir John
Askew, with yew hedges, grass walks and flower beds in a
mathematical scheme, using the multiple of five, the flower
beds five feet from the yew hedges, and the beds themselves
five feet wide.
Of course there is a ghost, and Madam Blunt is said still
to " walk " in the old garden. Six bundles of trees were brought
from Nova Scotia in 1780 by one Captain Welch, of the Royal
Welch Fusiliers, and beneath the shade of this fine timber the
pupils of Mr. MacKnight worked and played. 1
He has left an account of a sudden and very terrible storm
of wind which took place on October 3ist, 1873. He describes
how " the tall spruces lashed about as though by some terrific
force made into playthings," and how " one elm after another
crashed to earth, one of which in falling tore out the end of the
gate-lodge." How " the storm apparently struck the ground,
which was torn up as though by a steam plough."
After the storm came a water-spout, which washed up to
its foundation the metal on the Purton Road. But the
strangest thing of all was that it all took place on October $ist,
and that Madam Blunt 's tree was spared amidst the general
havoc.
This is the ghost story. Madam Blunt was born Miss
Askew, and from an old letter dated Wootton Bassett, November
Qth, 1764, we learn that she was engaged to a young clergyman,
and everything was arranged by her parents for her marriage.
She, however, was in the habit of trying her blandishments
on others besides her fiance, and this so preyed on the young
man's mind that it affected his brain. One night 2 there was a
dinner party, and one of her favoured swains was present, as
well as the unfortunate lover. No one knew exactly what
occurred, but later in the evening, in the dark, the three met,
there was a struggle, and the clergyman, who it is thought had
dined not wisely but too well, drew a pistol and shot himself,
although the guilty pair did all they could to prevent him.
In the old rectory the marks of blood and brains could be seen
on the wall till it was pulled down in 1857.
Miss Askew married Colonel Blunt in 1768, and seven years
1 Recollections and Letters of Rev. W. MacKnight, by E. L. Thomson.
* October 3ist.
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THE STORY OF PURTON
after his death, on inheriting the Manor, went to live there
(in 1811). She saw few or no neighbours, but the gipsies knew
her weU, and were always welcomed to sing and dance before
the house. She enclosed a piece of the garden called " The
Slopes," keeping the key herself, and only allowing the gardener
to enter in her company. For hours daily, until her death in
1822, she would walk up and down in this garden quite alone,
and people say that to this day she still " walks," and that on
the 3ist of October, when night falls, she may be seen there
seated under Madam Blunt's tree.
People at Lydiard tell that when the will was opened it
was found that Madam Blunt had given directions that her
coffin was to be carried seven times round this special tree,
which folks say had been given to her in a flower-pot years
ago by a well-loved swain, and her directions were accordingly
carried out — seven times the solemn procession made the circle
of the tree before laying her remains to rest in the old churchyard
adjoining. But in the will there was more than this simple
order.
History says that one evening a party of friends were
gathered together at the Sun Inn at Lydiard, and Madam
Blunt's health not being very good at the time, the question
arose, " If anything happens to the old lady, who will have
the Manor ? " One Mrs. Kibble white, just in for her husband's
pint of beer, volunteered the surprising information : " You 11
see, our Jim will be lord of the Manor when the old lady dies."
Her remark was received with incredulity and disdain, and
Richard Parsons, Madam Blunt's servant, said, " Your Jim —
never likely — as likely as me." " You '11 see," repeated Mrs.
Kibblewhite, " I know a thing or two — the Manor 's sold and
bought already — good night." Home went the good lady and
told her husband what had occurred. " There now, you 'ave
done it, you 'ave spoiled it all, and our Jim will never be lord
of the Manor."1 And he never was, for Richard Parsons told
Madam Blunt the whole story. (It seemed that her son, Sir
Charles Blunt, had sold his succession to James Kibblewhite
for a sum of money. This happened in June, 1817.) Madam
Blunt thereupon sent for her agent, Mr. Bewley, collected all
the papers and documents, which were packed into two saddle-
1 From Lydiard Manor, by Rev. W. MacKnight.
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THE STORY OF PURTON
bags, and off she rode on a pillion behind him to catch the
nearest London coach. This old lady of seventy-one years
succeeded in her errand, and the story went " that Lydiard
was bought and sold three times in one day in the streets of
London." Thus was it explained : " On July ist and 2nd, 1817,
there was a lease and release by Mary Blunt to Samuel Waller
in trust for her and her heirs. July 3rd and 4th, 1817, a lease
and release by Samuel Waller to Mary Blunt and her heirs —
that is to whom she should choose, not Sir Charles Blunt." 1
And so it fell out that "our Jim" was never "lord of the
Manor." He tried to claim it with a lawsuit, but lost that and
probably any other fortune he was possessed of.
Anyhow, there was no luck with the place as far as Madam
Blunt's heirs were concerned, and for nine years it stood empty
and unoccupied.
In 1841 it was bought by Mr. Streeten, and then sold to
Mr. Story-Maskelyne in 1872. It is now again derelict, and
owing to a curious will no one can rebuild the house2 and
occupy the old-world garden, though many have wished
to do so, and to restore it to its ancient beauty and
charm.
Writing of the smock-frock in 1852, Mr. MacKnight says : —
" The parishioners still came to Church in their white smock-
frocks, which were here and there varied with a blue one, with
its pattern in white thread conspicuous on the breast." There
was a great draught in the Church, owing to leaks in the old
oak roof, and he adds : " The wind swept in gusts over us,"
and one day, he writes, " a good many smocks being present,
one by one, for his protection, drew out his red pocket-
handkerchief and threw it over his head. Then I had a not
unpleasant variety of colour before me, the white, blue and red.
It was a most picturesque group of a generation that is rapidly
passing away, and soon to be seen no more. My poor neigh-
bour," he adds, " Mrs. Ody, who earned her living by adorning
the smock-frock with her handiwork, complained hi 1860
that where she once made a score she did not now make
one."
1 Lydiard Manor, by Rev. W. MacKnight.
* It was completely gutted by fire some years ago.
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THE STORY OF PURTON
"Grubbing the moots," in the old Wiltshire dialect, is still
practised in these parts when work is slack during the winter ;
and very cleverly are the roots of fallen trees chipped out
by practised hands, a benefit to the owner, who wishes to be
rid of the*^msightly "moot," and a help in firing to one in
need of it.
100
CHAPTER XIV
RED LODGE — MR. SADLER'S RECOLLECTIONS OLD COINS —
" YOU COME FROM PURTON "
RED LODGE, the residence of Mr. John Edward Ward, is situated
in the north-west portion of Purton, now separated off into
the civil parish of Braydon. This district was not within the
ancient bounds of Braden Forest as given in the Perambulation
of 28 Ed. III., although by the encroachments of the early
Norman kings it had been brought within its limits.
It was no doubt covered with woods, and in a later
Perambulation is described as "late ye woods of Henry de
Lacey Erie of Lincolne."
From the Inquisition P.M. of this nobleman, dated 4 Ed. II.,
it appears that he held them as part of his Manor of Aldebourne,
which came to him as the inheritance of his wife, Margaret, and
" that it belongs to the Earldom of Sarum," which he also held.
His sole daughter, Alice, though thrice married, left no issue,
and on her death the vast estates which she inherited from
her father passed to the brother of her first husband, Henry,
Earl of Lancaster. Thus this property fell into the hands of
the Crown. When early in the reign of Charles I. Braden Forest
was disafforested the land claimed by the Crown as royal
demesne and Duchy of Lancaster estates was let on lease to
Philip Jacobson, the King's Jeweller, and Edward Sewster,
with rights to grub up the woods, convert the land to tillage,
to erect iron works, etc.
At first there were serious disturbances, but no doubt in
time things settled down. Later the Crown divided its estates
into three portions and leased them for a number of years :
firstly, to James Duart, the principal residence being called
Slyfield Lodge, within the forest ; the second portion to Philip
Jacobson, the principal residence being Statton Lodge, without
101
the forest ; and the third being the Great Lodge to Roger Nott,
the principal residence within the Forest.
From this it appears that Hatton Lodge was the name of the
principal residence on the Crown property held under the Duchy
of Lancaster.
The Jacobson family lost their interest in it early in the
eighteenth century, and in 1729 the Nott family obtained a
lease of it, but their residence, in an old map of 1733 described
as Nott's House, was the Great Lodge, now called Ravens Hurst
House Lodge. In the beginning of the nineteenth century the
Crown disposed of all its Braydon property, and a farm called
the Duchy Ragg, in Cricklade St. Sampson, was sold to the
Earl of Clarendon, from whom it passed later to Mr. Joseph
Neeld. In Andrews' and Drury's map of 1773 both the White
Lodge and Red Lodge are marked in this district, and the name
Hattori Lodge has disappeared ; but there can be little doubt
that this is the ancient name of the present Red Lodge.
As already mentioned, the large Red Lodge estate (3,800
acres) was purchased by Joseph Neeld in 1829, not all at once,
but bit by bit, and was mostly corn-growing land. After
1829 the Neelds gradually laid it down in grass, and planted
the woods between 1830-40, which are extensive. A coach
road was made, which leads us to suppose that the building
of a mansion was contemplated.
Sir Algernon Neeld lived for a short time at Red Lodge,
but it was not till 1902, when Mr. Ward acquired the property,
that the old Ranger's house was altered and considerably
added to.
The architects were the late Mr. Seddon, of Westminster,
and Mr. Jones, of Gloucester. The gardens, which are celebrated
in the neighbourhood, were designed by Mr. White, of Victoria
Street, Westminster.
Long, closely-shaven grass walks with herbaceous borders,
and flanked with rambler roses gracefully trained on posts,
meet the eye on all sides, and there is a beautiful rock garden
with many treasures carefully tended therein. In springtime
the daffodils are a glory, once seen not easily forgotten,
stretching in a blaze of yellow right across the park to the woods
beyond. Both Mr. and Mrs. Ward are keen gardeners, and
Captain Harold Ward has inherited his father's taste, being
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THE STORY OF PURTON
an enthusiast on rock work. He is now in France serving as
Adjutant to the Wiltshire Yeomanry. 1 He is a member of
the Inner Temple and a practising barrister, and married
Miss Grice-Hutchinson in 1913.
Mr. Ward is the son of Mr. John Ward, of Whittington,
Salop, who was partly instrumental in constructing most of
the Welsh railways.
Until Mr. Ward retired from business in 1896 he practised
as a solicitor at Newport (Mon.), and acted for numerous
ironworks and colliery companies in South Wales. He is a
member of the Reform Club and J.P. for the county, and
represents Braydon in the Cricklade and Wootton Bassett
Union.
Mrs. Ward has organised and successfully carried out a
weekly working party for St. John Ambulance during the war,
and has sent large consignments of hospital requisites regularly
as a result of these efforts.
Miss Meriol Goodwin, Mrs. Ward's niece, spent a long time
nursing the soldiers in the Bath Military Hospital.
Mr. J. H. Sadler remembers as a boy the different services
and aspect of the interior of our interesting old Church. At
that time, some sixty years ago, the music was supplied by flutes
and viols, 2 which, after much tuning and blowing, were ready
for their work. The performers were seated in a gallery
which was placed over the west entrance, and later on the
organ, which was obtained by the energies of his uncle,
Mr. W. H. Sadler, stood in the gallery in place of the earlier
band of musicians. This was in the year 1851.
The galleries ran along the south side of the nave and in
the north transept. One in which the Sadler family sat was
1 Mentioned in Sir D. Haig's despatches.
2 The " flutes and viols " must have been highly prized by our
predecessors, for the following short extract from the late Major Prower's
diary proves this : —
" 20th July, 1851. Sunday.
" Gallery choir ceased to sing being in dudgeon on account of the
organ being ordered."
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THE STORY OF PURTON
approached from the western end of the nave by a spiral stair-
case. Behind this gallery a door, which must have been a
narrow one, had its place in a portion of the window on the side
next the south porch (then the vestry). Steps led to this
gallery from outside. Six families occupied the seats in this
larger gallery.
The three-decker pulpit, with clerk's desk, stood in more or
less the centre of the Church, i.e. in front of the second pillar
on the left side of the aisle. Beside this was the large square
Purton House pew.
There is an interesting fragment of oak carving on the back
part of the right reading desk, and part of one of the old galleries
forms the counter in Mr. Kempster's shop.
The curious sword which was found with the skeleton in
the ancient chapel wall was bought many years ago by Major
Prower from a man at Braydon, in whose possession it then
was.
Colonel Prower has kindly promised to restore it to its rightful
place, the Church where it was found. It will form an interesting
relic in the Priest's Room Museum.
Job Morse remembers the finding of the skeleton in the
wall. He was present, and said the shape of a form was there,
but blew away in dust when the air got in, leaving only the
bones.
In the year 1839 a man named Lloyd visited Wiltshire,
and carved with the most accurate care models of the three
churches, Purton, Wroughton and Clyffe Pypard. In the
models the interior of the churches is exactly reproduced. The
model of Purton Church is now in the possession of Miss Prower,
and is complete even to the green frill surrounding the square
Purton House pew.
With regard to the patron saint, a curious local tradition
ascribes it to St. Michael, and the fact that the village feast falls
on the Sunday within the octave of St. Michael seems to lend
colour to this view. * It almost seems as though both over the
building and dedication of our Church opinions were inclined
to differ and refuse to give way to one another in those far-off
times.
When the old vicarage was demolished in the spring of
1 Wilts Notes and Queries.
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THE STORY OF PURTON
1913, the Rev. J. E. Pugh spent many hours searching for
treasure which might possibly have been buried beneath the
old house. The dust and mess was horrible, but he persevered
with the help of a large sieve, and at last he was rewarded by
finding four coins : —
1. Dated George II., cast in commemoration of the peace,
and engraved, " Peace nourishes trade." Britannia seated,
watching a ship in full sail, as she leans upon her shield.
2. A beautiful little coin engraved, " Carolus. D.G.M.A.G.C.
Rit. Fram. F. T. Hip. Rex."
3. A very roughly made, not symmetrical, coin of copper.
4. Silver, so worn no marks legible.
Mr. Pugh kindly presented his find to the proposed Priest's
Room Museum. Some months ago the bell-hanger, Mr. Doble,
was in the belfry with the writer, and he discovered a most
curious part of an old barrel-organ of which no one living had
ever heard. It revolves on pivots, and a label on it bears the
words, " End of second Chant," showing that in times now long
forgotten it had borne its part in the services of the Church.
Some carved fragments of stone were also found, evidently
part of a former niche. As already stated, the floor of the belfry
was in a terribly worn condition, full of holes, and really
very unsafe. This has now been thoroughly restored and
strengthened, which was very necessary for the safety of all
concerned.
There is a curious saying, the origin of which is wrapped in
mystery, used by West-country people on seeing a door left
open. " Oh, you come from Purton ! " is said to the offender.
From and before the days of Dean Swift this is to some minds
a deadly crime, and the story goes that a servant of his, having
been sent to a distant part of the country somewhere in Ireland,
received an urgent message to return.
On entering the crusty old Dean's presence, he discovered
the sole reason for his recall in the following stern order, " Shut
the door ! " Surely we may be forgiven for believing that the
saying with regard to Purton folk may have originated in a
hospitable instinct to keep an open friendly door, ever offering
to the traveller a welcome within.
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THE STORY OF PURTON
The writer recently met a lady whose son was fighting in
France, and he had written home saying that he had been with
some soldiers in a house, and one had left the room and forgotten
to close the door. A Cornishman who was present at once
called out, " Oh, you come from Purton ! " " What do you
know of Purton ? " asked the young officer. " Oh, I don't
know where the place is, but they never shut the doors there ! "
was the reply.
106
CHAPTER XV
PURTON FAIR — THE BONFIRE — THE PLAY CLOSE —
THE BIND HOUSE
Purton Fair
THIS, with a weekly market (held on Thursdays), was instituted
in 1213 by " Royal Charter " for the continual support of a
Chaplain to minister in the Chapel dedicated to St. John the
Baptist at Purton. It was to commence on the morning of the
24th of June, the festival of the patron saint of the Chapel, and
to continue for one day only. 1 This Chapel appears to have
been quite distinct from the Church itself, and exempt from the
control of the Vicar of the parish. There is mention of an
Oratory in Purton, built about this date by Thomas de Peritone,
which seems to have been a private chapel for his own use,
as it was erected " infra septa curiae suae de Peritone ; " and the
grant of the Abbot of Malmesbury of complete exemption
from the mother Church at Purton for this Oratory, on condition
that the said Thomas would " undertake that the said Church
should not be the loser in any manner there from," rather inclines
one to think the Oratory and private chapel were on eand the
same building.
In Hone's Everyday Book the following account of Purton
Fair is written by one Charles Tomlinson, which is given in his
own words : —
Aug. 18. 1826.
DEAR SIR,
Perhaps you or some of your readers may be acquainted
with a small village in the north of Wiltshire called Purton,
very pleasantly situated, and dear to me, from a child : it
being the place where I passed nearly all my boyish days. I
went to school there, and spent many a pleasant hour, which
1 This does not agree with the date given later.
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THE STORY OF PURTON
I now think of with sincere delight, and perhaps you will not
object to a few particulars concerning a fair held there on the
ist of May and the 3rd of September in every year. The spot
wheron Purton Fair is annually celebrated, is a very pleasant
little green, called " The Close " or play ground, belonging to
all the unmarried men in the village. They generally assemble
there every evening after the toils of the day, to recreate them-
selves with a few pleasant sports.
Their favorite game is what they call back-swording, in
some places called single-stick. Some few of the village have
the good fortune to be adepts in the noble art, and are held up
as beings of transcendent genius, among the rustic admirers of
that noted science. They have one whom they call their
umpire, to whom all disputes are referred, and he always with
the greatest impartiality decides them. About six years ago,
a neighbouring farmer, whose orchard joins the Green, thought
that his orchard might be greatly improved. He accordingly
set to work, pulled down the original wall, and built a new one,
not forgetting to take in several feet of the Green. The village
felt great indignation at the encroachment and resolved to
claim their rights. They waited till the new wall should be
completed, and in the evening of the same day a party of about
40 marched to the spot, armed with great sticks, pick-axes etc.
and very deliberately commenced breaking down the wall.
The owner, on being apprised what was passing, assembled all
his domestics, and proceeded to the spot, where a furious
scuffle ensued, several serious accidents happened. However,
the aggressor, finding he could not succeed, proposed a settle-
ment : he entirely removed the new wall on the following day,
and returned it to the place where the old one stood. On the
morning of the Fair, as soon as the day begins to dawn, all is
bustle and confusion throughout the village.
Gipsies are first seen with their donkeys approaching the
place of rendezvous : then the village rustics in their clean
white Sunday smocks, and the lasses with their Sunday Gowns,
caps and ribands hasten to the Green and all is mirth and gaiety.
I cannot pass over a very curious character who used regularly
to visit the Fair.
I was told by an ancient inhabitant that he had done so
for several years. He was an old gipsey, who has attained
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THE STORY OF PURTON
to high favour with the younkers of the place, from his jocular
habits, curious dress, and pleasant stories he used to relate.
He called himself " Corey Dyne " or " Old Corey," and
those are the only names by which he was known. He was
accustomed to place a little hat on the ground, from the centre
of which rose a stick about three feet high, whereon he put
either half pence, or a small painted box, or something equally
winning to the eye of his little customers. There he stood
crying, " Now, who throws with poor old Corey — come to Corey
— come to Corey Dyne : only a halfpenny a throw, and only
once a year." A boy who had purchased the right to throw
was placed about three feet from the hat, with a small piece of
wood, which he threw at the article on the stick, and if it fell
in the hat (which by the by it was almost invariably sure to do),
the thrower lost his money : but if out of the hat, on the ground,
the article on the stick was claimed by the thrower.
The good humour of Old Corey, generally insured him
plenty of custom. I have oftentimes been the loser, but never
the winner. I believe that no one in all Purton knows from
whence he is, though everybody is acquainted with him. There
was a large show on the place, and the rustics were wont to
gaze with surprise and admiration. The chief object of their
wonder was our "Punch." They could not form the slightest
idea, how little wooden figures could talk and dance about,
they supposed that there must be some hie in them. I well
remember that I once undertook to set them right, but was
laughed at and derided for my presumption and boast of
superior knowledge. There was also another very merry
fellow who frequented the Fair, by the name of Mr. Merriman.
He obtained great celebrity by giving various imitations of
birds, etc., which he would very readily do, after collecting a
sufficient sum, " to clear his pipe," as he used to say.
He then began with the nightingale, which he imitated very
successfully, then followed the blackbird, linnet, gold finch,
robin, geese, and ducks on a rainy morning, turkeys, etc. etc.
Then perhaps, after collecting more money to clear his pipe,
he would imitate a jackass, or a cow. His excellent imitation
of the crow of a cock strongly affected the risible muscles of
his auditors.
The amusements lasted till nearly midnight, when the rustics
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THE STORY OF PURTON
being exhilarated with the effects of good strong Wiltshire ale,
generally part, after a few glorious battles. Next day, several
champions enter the field, to contest the right to several prizes,
which are laid out in the following order :
ist. A new smock.
2nd. A new hat, with a blue cockade.
3rd. An inferior hat, with a white cockade.
4th. A still inferior hat, without a cockade.
A stage is erected on the Green at 5 o'clock, the sport
commences, and a very celebrated personage, whom they call
their " umpshire " (umpire) stands high above the rest to award
the prizes.
The candidates are generally selected from the best players
at singlestick, and, on this occasion, they use their utmost skill
and ingenuity, and are highly applauded by the surrounding
spectators. I must not forget to remark, that on this grand,
and to them interesting day, the inhabitants of Purton do not
combat against each other — no — believe me Sir, they are better
acquainted with the laws of Chivalry.
Purton produces four candidates, and a small village
adjoining called Stretton1 sends forth four more. These
candidates are representatives of the Village to which they
respectively belong, and they who lose have to pay all the
expenses of the day, but, it is to the credit of the sons of Purton
I record, that for seven successive years, their candidates have
been returned victors.
The contest generally lasts two hours, and, after that, the
ceremony of chairing the representatives takes place, which is
thus performed. Four chairs, made with the boughs of trees
are in waiting, and the conquerors are placed therein, and
carried through the village with every demonstration of joy,
the inhabitants shouting " Purton for ever ! Huzza my boys !
Huzza ! " waving boughs over their triumphant candidates.
After the chairing they adjourn to the village public house,
and spend the remainder of the evening as before.
The 3rd day is likewise a day of bustle and confusion.
All repair to a small common called the Cricket ground, and
a grand match takes place between the Purton Club and
1 Now Stratton, so called from the Roman Street.
no
THE STORY OF PURTON
Stretton Club. There are about twenty candidates of a
side.
The vanquished parties pay is. each, to defray the expenses
of a cold collation, which is previously provided in a pleasant
little copse, adjoining the Cricket ground, and the remainder
of the day is spent convivially. I remember hearing the
landlord of the Public House Purton, which is situated on one
side of the Green observe to a villager, that during the three
days merriment he had sold 6,000 gallons of strong beer and
ale. The man of course doubted him, and afterwards very
sarcastically remarked to me.
" Its just as asy measter for he to zay zix thousand as dree
thousand." Does not this, good Mr. Editor, show a little
genuine Purton wit ?
I am now my dear Sir finished and have endeavoured to
describe three pleasant days spent in an innocent and happy
manner, and if I have succeeded in affording you any service,
or your readers any amusement, I am amply rewarded.
Allow me to add I feel such an affection for old Purton,
that should I at any time in my life visit Wiltshire, I would
travel twenty miles out of my road to ramble once more in the
haunts of my boyhood.
Believe me, my dear Sir,
August 18. 1826.
Since writing above, I have received a letter from a very
particular friend, who went to Purton School five years, to whom
I applied for a few extra particulars respecting the Fair etc.
and he thus writes : —
DEAR C.
You seem to think that with the name, I still retain alj
the characteristics and predilections of a " hodge," and there-
fore, you seek to me for information respecting the back-sword
playing, Fair, etc
I know that as to the first, it is, and has been for the last two
years, entirely done away with, as the principal farmers in the
place " done like it," and so dont suffer it As to the Fair,
where lads and lasses meet in their best gowns, and ribands
and clean smocks, you must know most assuredly more than
I do, as I seldom troubled about it.
in
THE STORY OF PURTON
You must bear in mind that this Fair is exactly the same as
that held in the month of May, but, as no notice has been taken
of it by Mr. Hone in either of his volumes, I suppose it very
little matters whether your description is of the Fair held in
May or December [sic].
I have to lament, my dear Sir, the discontinuance of the
ancient custom of back-swording at Purton village but, as long
as they keep up their Fairs, the other loss will not be so much
felt.
Aug. 13. 1826.
A note is added by C. T. saying that Old Corey only came
to the Autumn Fair, and that that held in May was for cattle
alone, while the later one was for pleasure.
Then follows a poem with this dedication :—
To the worthy and respectable inhabitants of Purton this
song is most respectfully inscribed by their ever true and
devoted humble servant, Charles Tomlinson.
Song : Purton Fair.
Come neighbours listen, I '11 sing you a song
Which I assure you, will not keep you long,
I 11 sing a good song, about old Purton Fair.
For that is the place lads, to drive away care.
The damsels all meet full of mirth and of glee,
And they are as happy, as happy can be,
Such worth and such beauty fairs seldom display,
And sorrow is banished on this happy day.
There 's the brave lads of Purton at back-sword so clever.
Who were ne'er known to flinch, but victorious ever,
The poor boys of Stretton are bashed away,
For Purtons famed youth ever carry the day.
Tis old" Corey Dyne " who wisely declares,
Stretton's lads must be beaten at all Purton's Fairs,
They cant match our courage, then huzza my boys
To still conquering Purton, let 's kick up a noise !
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THE STORY OF PURTON
Old Corey 's the merriest blade in the Fair,
What he tells us is true, so prithee dont spare,
Remember poor Corey, Come pray have a throw,
Tis but once a year, as you very well know.
But here ends my song, so lets haste to the Green,
Tis as pretty a spot as ever was seen,
And if you are sad, or surrounded with care,
Haste quickly, haste quickly, to Old Purton Fair.
Purton Bonfire.
In another letter from Charles Tomlinson to the Editor
of the Everyday Book, we find the following : —
DEAR SIR,
At almost every village in England, the fifth of November
is regarded in a very especial manner. Some pay greater
attention to it than others, but I believe it is invariably noticed
by all.
I have been present at Old Purton bonfire, and perhaps
the following short notice of it may not be uninteresting.
I before stated that the green, or Close, at Purton, is the
spot alloted for amusements in general. This is also the place
for the ceremonies on this highly important day, which I am
about to describe.
Several weeks before, the boys of the village go to every
house begging faggots ; and if they are refused they all answer
together : —
If you don't give us one
We '11 take two ;
The better for us, Sir,
And the worse for you.
They were once refused by a farmer (who was very much
disliked by the poor for his severity and unkindness) and accord-
ingly they determined to make him repent. He kept a sharp
lookout over his faggot pile, but forgot that something else
might be stolen. The boys got into his backyard and extracted
a new pump, which had not oeen properly fixed, and bore it
off in triumph to the green, where it was burnt amidst the loud
acclamations of the young rogues generally.
"3
THE STORY OF PURTON
All the wood, etc., which has been previously collected,
is brought into the middle of the close where an effigy of poor
Guy is burnt. A figure is made (similar to one of those carried
about London Streets,) intending to represent the conspirator,
and placed at the top of a high pole, with the fuel all around.
Previous to lighting it, poor Guy is shot at by all who have the
happiness to possess guns for the purpose, and pelted with
squibs, crackers, etc. This fun continues about an hour, and
then the pile is lighted, the place echoes with huzzas, guns keep
up perpetual reports, fireworks are flying in all directions, and
the village bells merrily ring. The fire is kept up a considerable
time, and it is a usual custom for a large piece of "real Wiltshire
bacon " to be dressed by it, which is taken to the public-house,
together with potatoes roasted in the ashes of the bonfire, and
a jovial repast is made. As the fire decreases, successive
quantities of potatoes are dressed in the embers by the rustics,
who seem to regard them as the great delicacies of the night.
There is no restraint put on the loyal zeal of these good folks,
and the fire is maintained to a late hour. I remember, on one
occasion, hearing the guns firing as I lay in bed between two
and three o'clock in the morning. The public-house is kept open
nearly all night, ale flows plentifully, and it is not spared by the
revellers. They have a noisy chorus, which is intended as a
toast to his Majesty, it runs thus : —
My brave lads remember
The fifth of November,
Gunpowder treason and plot,
We will drink, smoke, and sing, boys,
And our bells they shall ring, boys,
And here 's health to our King, boys,
For he shall not be forgot.
Their merriment continues till morning, when they generally
retire to rest very much inebriated, or, as they term it, " merry,"
or "top heavy."
I hope to have the pleasure of reading other communications
in your interesting work on this good old English custom ;
and beg to remain,
Dear Sir, etc., .
C. T.
October 20, 1826.
114
THE STORY OF PURTON
These very interesting stories of old days seem to bring with
them a wish to know something of the manner in which the
people of Purton obtained this privilege of having a Play Close
or Green, forever reserved for them and their descendants.
The writer has therefore, through the kindness of Mrs. Story-
Maskelyne, obtained the following information : —
Purton Play Close.
Under the name of " The Church House Close," a close
of pasture containing three acres more or less, now known by
the name of the Play Close, was conveyed by Henry Gleed,
" Innholder," and Mary his wife to Trustees in the year 1641,
and with it a house adjoining called " Weekes" or " Wilkes."
The close of pasture was " to be used for a place of exercise,
recreation, lawful sports and pastimes, at all fit and convenient
tymes and seasons for the common good and benefit of the young
and other inhabitants of Purton."
The house was to be held in trust for an almshouse for
the poor people of Purton, who were " to be placed there as
the Vicar, Churchwardens, and Overseers of the Poor, and other
chiefest and best sort of inhabitants of the Parish of Purton,
or the major part of them shall appoint."
The above-mentioned house called " Weekes " and the
" Church House Close " had previously formed part of the
copyhold estate of Henry Gleed 's father, John Gleed, which
was enfranchised in 1608 by Gray, Lord Chandos, son of the
first Lord Chandos, and owner of much land formerly belonging
to the Abbey of Malmesbury. In the Gleeds' time the Church
House was occupied by John Pannell, and the " Inn " presumably
by Henry Gleed, as he is described as an " Innholder," and now
" Weekes " becomes the Almshouse. The Trustees who paid
£66 to Henry Gleed and his wife, 17 Charles I., 1641, for this
close of pasture and " Weekes " to be held in trust for the
inhabitants of Purton were : —
Nevill Maskelyne (Gent).
William Maskelyne (Gent).
William Skilling,
George Stevens,
Richard Bathe,
Thomas Carter, and
John Telling of Purton (Yeomen).
"5
THE STORY OF PURTON
Where Mr. Mussell's shop now stands was once the " Lock
up," 1 where those villagers who had forfeited their right to
freedom through drink or other causes were placed " in durance
vile " until the Justices could sit and pronounce sentence upon
them. There was no window in front in those days ; the
opening door was on the right side (now closed) ; and as the
level of the interior was much below the present floor, it must
have been indeed a stuffy and unpleasant abode.
The old door may still be seen on an outhouse. It is of
oak, freely studded over with nails, and an oblong opening,
strongly barred with iron near the top, was the only apparent
ventilation available.
Across the narrow alley may be seen the ancient house of
" Weekes," once the Almshouse of the parish, and mentioned
as such in Mrs. Story-Maskelyne's notes. It is a large house
built of the local stone, with a stone tile roof ; its condition
is lamentable, the tiles are only held in position at the edge
of the roof by a piece of rabbit wire arranged to catch them
should they fall.
There is an immense chimney on the left side, wide enough
to have been used as a hiding-place should occasion have
required it, and a pretty old window at the back, which once
no doubt looked on to the Play Close, but now only overlooks
a small garden.
The " Co-operative Stores " just opposite is an old house,
and bears the date 1677.
The stocks once stood somewhere in this part of the village,
and an unpleasant enough position it must have been, as no
doubt the children of those days were much like their
descendants at Purton to-day, and would have much enjoyed
some horse-play with a helpless victim in the stocks, who would
have been quite unable to defend himself or retaliate in any
way.
Early in the nineteenth century a dispute arose in connection
with the Play Close, as Mr. Raskins' grandfather began to make
a road across it to gain access to his fields from the High Street.
This was fiercely resented by the neighbours, and while the
work of making the road was continued by day, each night
deep ditches were dug across by the indignant Purtonians.
1 Or " Bind House."
116
THE STORY OF PURTON
At length the law was called in, and after much discussion
Mr. Haskins was allowed to make his road, but only so as to
enable him to have ingress and egress to his farm.
The curious little pathway which runs from the Schools to
the High Street, with high walls on either side, bears the quaint
name of " The Little Lane."
While thinking of names, one occurs frequently during the
eighteenth century in the deeds' Charity Accounts which is
worthy of record, namely " Thomas Catchaside." Surnames
were probably given as nicknames when not derived from
property, and one wonders whether Thomas Catchaside or his
ancestor had done some unusual feat on the cricket field to
earn himself this appellation. No descendants of the name
exist to-day in Purton.
Wayside pools rejoice in picturesque names in this neighbour-
hood, Harvest Water, the Weir Pond and the Wash Pool
bringing to one's mind scenes from other days now long
departed, of horses watered during harvest, an ancient water
system, and a sheep dipping.
117
CHAPTER XVI
BRADEN FOREST — PARISH BOUNDARIES
By Mrs. Story-Maskelyne
FORESTS originally were not merely tracts of wooded country,
but included waste ground, moors and commons, such as
Dartmoor, Exmoor, etc., within the boundary of which the
rights of hunting were reserved for the King, and they were
subject to very severe forest laws, which dated back to the
days of Canute.
The earliest record we have of Braden Forest is in one of
the charters of Malmesbury Abbey, dated A.D. 796, where it is
stated that Purton, or Piritone as it was then called, was
situated " on the east side of Braden Forest"
The wood at Purton, as recorded in Domesday, was two
miles long and two broad, but though the forest was no doubt
larger than this, including as it did a considerable portion of
Cricklade Parish, it was at that time very much smaller than
it became in the days of King Henry II. and John, for those
Norman princes were wont to increase their hunting grounds
by encroaching on and afforesting the woods of their neighbours,
and subjecting them to the stringent forest laws by which they
protected the deer and other wild animals living in the woods,
and keeping them for their own private sport.
Much in the same way as William Rufus created the New
Forest for his own hunting ground, so we find that several
woods near Purton were afforested by Henry II. and John,
and thus added to Braden Forest.
These encroachments included —
Brockenbury, Brenke- all belonging to Malmesbury Abbey,
worth, Cheorlton
and Purton woods.
Woods of the Manor „ „ Cirencester Abbey.
of Minety.
118
THE STORY OF PURTON
Woods of the Manor all belonging to Stanley Abbey,
of Midgehall.
Woods of the Manor „ „ Tewkesbury Abbey,
of Ashton.
Woods of the Manor „ „ William de Grandison.
of Lydiard Tregoze.
Woods of Hailstone „ „ the Abbey of Gloucester.
(nr. Cricklade).
Woods of Lydiard „ „ John de Cleetor and
Millicent Manor. Robert Russell.
The Brochure Woods „ „ Elizabeth Paynell and
Alionora de Keynes.
We learn from this list and other evidence that after the
Norman afforestations and encroachments Braden Forest
included Wootton Bassett x on the south to near Ashton Keynes
on the north, extending to the River Rey on the east and to
Charlton on the west. The ancient oaks still living on Blagrove
Farm probably mark an outlying part of a black grove of the
old forest.
In consequence of the grave troubles arising from these
Norman afforestations, Henry III., when only nine years of
age, was compelled to issue the Charter of the Forest in 1217.
To comply with the directions of the Charter, perambula-
tions of the forests were necessary, and they were, moreover,
required in order to carry out special regulations regarding the
sale of fallen timber after the great gale of 1222. Braden
Forest was one of over forty forests affected by the gale, the
perambulation of which was made in Henry III.'s reign.
Further perambulations made in 1300 (Edward I.) and in
Edward III.'s reign show that by that time the forest was
greatly reduced in size. a
The following story taken from the Cartulary of Malmesbury
Abbey is a good exemplification of forest troubles : —
" The Abbot of Malmesbury hath a wood which is called
Flusrygge, appertaining to his Manor of Cruddewell, and have
1 Wootton Bassett is mentioned as " intra silvam que vocatur" in a
charter of Eadwig.
z See perambulations of both dates at the end of the paper from
J. T. Akerman's paper in Archceologia, vol. xxxvii.
THE STORY OF PURTON
had this wood in severally . . . now 500 years and upwards,
till the reign of King John who enf crested it, and since that
time they have had the same wood . . . against all men's
rights, from Michaelmas day at noon until Martinmas day at
noon, for preservation of the Mast. It happened on the Morrow
of St. Michael in the 6th year of King Edward, that the Earl of
Hereford being at His Manor of Wokesege, which is near to
the same wood of Flusrygge, there came his people and put the
demesne hogs of the Earl and the hogs of his people of the town
of Wokesege into the aforesaid wood ; then came the Abbot's
people and impounded the Earl's hogs and the hogs of his men at
his manor of Cruddewell. Soon after came the demesne people
of the Earl and the people of the town with great force, and
broke down the gates and forcibly took out the hogs, and
wounded the Abbot's people even unto the death, so that the
Coroner was sent to look into this great affray. The hogs were
forcibly driven back to the wood and kept there over 15 days
till all the Mast was consumed ; so that no one belonging to
the Abbot dared to come near the wood."
J. T. Akerman, from whose History of Malmesbury and
Braden these extracts are quoted, says that " a quit claim of
the Earl of Hereford brought this dispute to an amicable
conclusion."
In later times the inclosures of commons and the dis-
afforestation of forest lands brought other grievances into
notice, and when Charles I. handed over a large tract of Braden
Forest for inclosure, the rights of the inhabitants, which now
came to an end, to pasture their cattle in the woods and wastes
and to gather fuel there had to be considered by the Exchequer
Commissioners. In 1628 they reported (inter alia) that Edward
Pleydell 1 had been " accustomed the Thursdays before Shrove
Sunday yearly, to hunte, chase, kill and carry awaye the Venison
and wylde beastes that they should fynde in the places of the
sayde forest called Great Sautridge, Little Sautridge, Keynes Wood,
Poucher's Ragg, Cove Wood, Wood brechc, The Leighe fields,
Brownes and Hailstones even unto Cricklade" He also claimed
fishing rights at West Mills.
1 He was a landowner in Cricklade.
I2O
THE STORY OF PURTON
The proceeds of the hunt were applied to the Parish Church
of Cricklade.
In these days J. Aubrey x was told by Mr. G. Ayliffe, of
Grittenham, " that a squirrel might have jumped from tree to
tree all the way from Wootton Bassett to Grittenham."
After the inclosure of 1628, Charles I. allotted 100 acres to
the poor of Cricklade and 25 acres to the poor of Purton Stoke,
in lieu of their forest rights.
The profits arising from the letting of the aforesaid twenty-
five acres allotted to the poor of Purton Stoke are distributed
at the beginning of each year, but the present footing on which
the charity was established was not made till the eighth year
of George III., when it was ordered that the inhabitants of
Purton Stoke should be at liberty to nominate fifteen Trustees
to set and let the twenty-five acres of land, and to manage the
said charity for the said benefit of the poor inhabitants ; also
that as often as the number of Trustees should be reduced
to seven others were to be named to make the number to
fifteen.
The twenty-five acres are partly in Purton Parish and partly
in Cricklade, and they consist of two fields of pasture ground.
The Trustees distribute the rents yearly on the first Thursday
after the 6th of January, application being made a year before
the applicants can receive the charity, and when once admitted
they receive it for life. In 1765 £30 gs. was distributed among
sixteen families. In 1885 one field was let for £30 and the
other £19. In 1917 there were only nine Trustees appointed
to act. *
Inclosures of the Common Field.
The inclosure and disafforestation of woods and wastes,
interfering with ancient rights which the owners were bound
to respect and by which the people claimed " House bote,"
" fyre bote," " hedge bote," " gate bote," etc., were frequent
sources of trouble down to the sixteenth and seventeenth
centuries. Troubles arising from the manner in which the
1 J. Aubrey, the great antiquary and historian of Wiltshire of the
seventeenth century.
3 See Chapter viii.
121
THE STORY OF PURTON
common fields, both arable and pasture, were cultivated were
equally common at that time.
The earliest inclosure of common land in Purton Parish
was effected in the reign of Queen Elizabeth in A.D. 1594, when
Lord Chandos, who became a landowner there after the dissolu-
tion of Malmesbury Abbey, agreed with " the tenants, free-
holders, copy-holders and f ermore within the manor and lordship
of Pirton and Purton Keynes, to exchange, inclose and take in
several lands lying in the Common fields of Pirton." Four
years later they confirmed the original Inclosure Act, and " for a
competent sum of money did assent and approve the exchanges
. . . clearly freed from all clayme right and interest of
common," at the same time specifying that these exchanges
should be made without interfering with the " Custom of the
Manor"
In this unsettled state of affairs it was evidently necessary
that the people's rights should be defined and stated in writing,
so that they could be referred to when required, and Certains
Customes belonging to the Mannor of Pirton, a document on
parchment now at Basset Down, was probably written for this
purpose and at this time ; it probably was Edmund Maskelyne's
own copy, to which he referred in his reply to a suit in Chancery,
alluded to farther on.
It is written, with many abbreviations, on a long parchment
roll, * containing forty items.
The customs relate to copyholders, inheritance and tenure
of land and heriots, whilst others relate to the rights and customs
of the people to have timber, wood, stone and sand for their
" house bote," etc.
The following items will suffice to give an idea of these old
customs : —
Item 12. " Our Custom is to have all manner of Timber
for our reparations of Customary tenements as often as need
shall require, as well for doores, wyndowes, as other great timber,
appointed by the lord's officer, and also that we should have
sande, for the same separations in the Common, and also stones
if we have any within our arable ground, every man upon his
own ground."
1 Wilts Arch. Mag., vol. xl., p. no.
122
THE STORY OF PURTON
Item 13. " Our Custom is if we take timber for reparation
of bridge we should have it delivered by the Lord or his
officers, as often as need shall require."
Item 14. " Our Custom is that all Toppes, Starved trees
windfalls and shrowdes, all underwood as thorn, maple, hazel,
and withy, as others, to be ours by our Customs."
In Item 12 we notice that sand and stone belonged by custom
to the people with certain restrictions, and this fact is alluded
to in Edmund Maskelyne's reply to a bill in Chancery concerning
the early inclosure of 1597, where he mentions " Stean Mead "
as a place for getting stone without trespass. "Stean Mead,"
near Woodwards Bridge, was called Vennys when bought by
Edmund Maskelyne for £2 in 1610.
The common fields concerned in the inclosure of 1597 are
not mentioned by name in the Act, nor are the names of the
freeholders and copyholders concerned in the exchanges with
Grey, Lord Chandos, but from a MS. book written by Nevill
Maskelyne in 1630, soon after the death of his father Edmund,
we find that 850 more acres of common or waste land were
inclosed by agreement between George, Lord Chandos, and
the inhabitants of the Manor, when the following fields were
still uninclosed : —
" Betwell Field, Combe Field, Church Field, Bar-field, Bryn-
field, Estfield, SparsoU Field, Clardon Field."
Betwell Field is elsewhere called Battle Field, or Bettle Field.
Barfield is evidently what is now known as Berkfield. 1
The fields were all arable, and they were cultivated in
common, according to the custom of the country, " controuled "
by the Constables and Tythingmen chosen yearly by the
Steward and Court of the Manor, who met and decided on
the crop to be sown ; their decision was law.
The arable fields " were to receive rotation of either wheat,
rye, or spring crops, and were thrown open when the crops
were carried, to be depastured in common by the cattle of
the Community." They were divided into permanent strips
1 See Chapter ix.
123
THE STORY OF PURTON
of unequal size, scattered over the fields, and allotted to the
inhabitants of the neighbourhood according to their importance,
the lord of the Manor claiming one fifteenth.
The extreme inconvenience of this old method of cultivation
is obvious, and led to further inclosures and exchanges.
The reasons given for both the 1738 and the 1799 inclosures
the first applying to pasture land and the second to arable,
were similar.
In 1738, when 1,200 acres known as Purton Common and
Purton Stoke Common, including Shooters Hill, Peavenhill,
Bagbury Green, Little Marsh, Widham and Cow Street, parts
of the Manors of Great Purton, Purton Keynes, and Purton
Pouchers, were enclosed, it was stated that " for want of proper
culture the Common land had been greatly impoverished,"
and frequent disputes arose among the owners of adjoining
land relating " to their rights of Stinting, 1 or Stocking the
Common, the land and freeholders were desirous that a specific
part should be assigned to each proprietor to hold as freehold
farms," or, as stated in 1799, " whereas the properties of ...
owners in the open and common fields lie intermixed and
dispersed in small parcels in their present situation, and are
incapable of any considerable improvement, but if divided and
inclosed and specific allotments made to the several persons
interested therein, such allotments and inclosures would tend
greatly to the advantage and improvement of their Estate."
Therefore the inclosure was effected.
Since the passing of the last Inclosure Act of 1799 the
modern map of Purton Parish presents a totally different aspect
to what we see portrayed in an old map finished in 1744, which
shows the arable fields still cultivated in strips.
The numbers on the map refer to the owner of the
strip, or land, * and they show that No. 3, for example, held
ten separate strips in this one field, all lying separate from one
another. We are told that " the 100 acres belonging to the
1 The Stint was the unit by which rights of common were measured,
one Stint being the right to pasture during a definite part of the year one horse
or two cows, or ten sheep, or one sheep or three geese.
1 The word " land " is used to denote the ground between two water
furrows in a ploughed field. The head land is where you turn the plough.
124
THE STORY OF PURTON
Rector's Glebe near Peterborough, was made up of 145 strips
with no better boundary from other properties on each side
than a mere furrow."
It was this awkward arrangement that led to the
inclosures of Purton Parish and elsewhere.
A Perambulation of Braden Forest in the reign of
Henry III.
The boundary began at " Brimyngersbridge," and goes on
to " Garesbourne " ; to " Wodebridge," " Wishweresmull,"
" Shaldeford," " Bradenbrook," " Steortwood," by " Swillbrook,"
to " Pye Hegge " ; by the Thames to " Halegston " ; to " West
Mull " ; to " Couel de croyz " (which Mr. Akerman thinks was
a cross with a cover in or near Cricklade) ; then to " Calcot
bridge"; to "Stokken lake"; to " Eisey bridge"; to the
River " Rey " at " Langebrigge " ; to " WydehuU Mill " ; to
" Ayldef ord " ; to " Shaghebrigge," and so back to the
commencement .
In Edward III.'s time, after the passing of the Charter of
the forest, the boundaries show that the forest was greatly
reduced in size. They began at " Beostock " ; then " to a small
stream called " Greenbourne" ; to " Colstockesford " "by the
two Sandfordes " and the " Calewe-hill de la Cove " to " Gode-
frayshurn " ; to " Sandraggeshok " ; to " Canonesweye," " along
the Thames to the house of William of the Mill"; "to the
" Cowled Cross " ; to " Stokebridge," " Wydemor," " Peverelse-
woode," and so back to " Beostock."
In Charles I.'s reign the woods near Cricklade and Purton
were disafforested and let to Philip Jacobson (to whom the King
owed a large sum of money) and to others. The boundaries ran
from " Charnam Oak," where was a Mere ; to a gutter called
Greenbourne ; to Sandf ord ; to the Leigh Marsh ; to Bum-lake ;
and to the River Thames ; to Halstone Bridge ; to West Mills ;
to " Culver Hay Cross " ; to the " Forty " ; to the end of
" Chelworth Lane " ; to " Frith End " ; " by the brook to Stoke
Bridge " ; to " Scholar's Cross " ; to the Mere by Charnam
Oak.
The boundaries of the Hamlet of Braden, as given in 1591,
called the " Dutchie woods adjoining unto the Forest of Bradon
I25
THE STORY OF PURTON
and the Temple Closes, to the same appertaining, began on the
north-east part thereof, at the north-west end of the said Tempel
Closes, thence leading westward to Stonyhurst Waie, to Turn-
trowe Oke, to Gospell Oke, to the south-east part of Lodge
lawne, to Armyn Crosse, to Charlame Oke, down the green slade
to Littell Charlame, by south part of wood to a tree called
Dunncowe, to a mere there ; to Mapellzell to Abbottes bridge
which boundeth upon Gestymelye ; to Purton Marsh, and so to
south-west end of Tempell Close . . . verie good waste ground
there."
The Perambulation of Purton Parish in 1733.
In bygone years it was the custom to make sure of the
boundaries of a parish by perambulating it in May, x and
1 Note by Author.
ROGATION DAY PROCESSIONS.
The term litany, a word of Greek origin, belongs properly to any
form of entreaty, but in Christian usage it has gained a specialised meaning
as the result of a somewhat complex history. In early days the word
was used to describe penitential services. St. Basil speaks of these in his
day (375), but admits they were innovations. The term thus employed
denoted days or acts of penitence and supplication, and when this reached
the West, it was the equivalent of " Rogation." A little later, during the
stress of the Arian conflict, St. Chrysostom introduced processions at
Constantinople, as a counter-blow to Arian propaganda (398), accompanied
by responsorial singing. This proved so popular, that the custom was
retained, and processions were henceforth used as a method of solemn
supplication, joined often with fasting and special prayer in time of emer-
gency. This, too, penetrated into the West. The best- known instance is
that at Vienna, when Mamertus the Bishop in 470 ordered special Rogation
or Litanies to be celebrated on the three days preceding Ascension Day,
at a time of great distress and terror in his diocese caused by the eruption
of a volcano. Thence the Rogation spread through Gaul and came to
England. The Council of Clonshoo in 747 adopted them as well as the
older indigenous Roman Day of Supplication on April 25th, which had
ousted a heathen procession called the Robigalia.
The responsorial singing would lend itself naturally for use in processions,
when the various petitions could be simply and effectively responded to
by the moving crowd. Accordingly, it is natural to find that in the West,
too, at the Litania or Rogation, psalms were sung, probably responsorially,
and formed the main part of the service.
It was not, however, processional psalmody that was to be associated
ultimately with the name of litany, but a form in which the deacon leads
the prayers or names the subjects of petition, and the people answer to each
" Lord have mercy."
The Rogation-tide litanies seem to have developed upon various lines
in different places in England, but they all look back to these ancient
types.
126
THE STORY OF PURTON
impressing the boundary on the memory of young people who
accompanied their elders in the perambulation in such a manner
as should cause them to remember the boundary accurately.
This was done in some places by beating the boys at certain
spots, though in Purton in 1733 this was not done, and instead
of beating the boys money was thrown to them, and in one
place two boys fought. We also find that at the more important
places in the boundary a gospel was read and a cross made in
the places where crosses had been made in former years, on
oaks or ashes, many of them long since dead and gone.
The "Gospel Oak,"1 now kept in the Parish Church of
St. Sampson, Cricklade, was once a landmark on the boundary
of the two parishes.
The following 2 is a copy of " A true and Exact Perambulation
of the whole Parish of Purton in the County of Wilts in the year
of our Lord 1733 shewing all the boundaries of the said Parish
with a particular account where the procession began and
ended and all the Several places where Gospels were read and
Crosses made, and all occurences that happened being the
business of two days as followeth." It has been shortened
by leaving out the names of former owners of land to the
right and left of the places indicated in the boundary,
where these names confuse the story.
" Meeting at the Parish Church of Purton the third day of
May where Prayers being ended the Procession went from
thence to the Water in Jobbers Lane8 (near Lydiard Millicent
Church) where a Gospel was read and a Cross made, from thence
along the bottom of Grove piece, through Gillams to Saunders
Closes where a Gospel was read and a Cross cut on the right hand
side of an Ashen tree, in an old decayed Mound in the Middle
of the Close, thence to Bagbury Green where a Gospel was read
and a Cross made . . . thence (through three grounds) to
Restrop lane where a Gospel was read and a Cross made ; thence
through Dry field, and He's, . . . through Gardens and
grounds to Greenhill Ground, to an Oak called Green hill oak
there a Gospel was read and a Cross cut on the said oak on the
1 See Chapter xvii.
1 Printed in Wilts Arch. Mag., vol. xl., p. 119.
8 Now called Lydiard Lane.
I27
THE STORY OF PURTON
right hand side thereof and money thrown amongst the boys and
to every person there present was given Cakes and Ale. From
thence to an Oak about the middle of Greenhill where a Gospel
was read and a Cross cut on the right hand side of the said Oak ;
from thence to the bottom of Greenhill where a Meer Stone
formerly stood near Sugham ford which divides the Common
and Manor of Purton from the Manor of Lidiard Millicent
where a Gospel was read and a Cross made. From thence
through a ground of Nevil Maskelyne at the bottom of Greenhill
into Purton Common . . . thence to a place where an Oak
called Pin Oak formerly stood where a Gospel was read and
Cross made. Thence in a direct line through the Purlieu into
Langett 1 in Purton Common, where a Gospel was read and a
Cross made . . . then up the road leading to Brinkworth,
leaving the Meer stones near Webbs wood on the left hand and
the Common of Purton on the right — to a place near where an
Oak called Jaques Oak formerly stood near Lookers wood,
where a Gospel was read and a Cross made and money thrown
amongst the boys — leaving Lookers wood on the right hand,
we came into Momes Leaze — at the upper end or corner of Momes
leaze a Gospel was read and a cross made. Crossing the way
that leads from Purton to Malmesbury . . we came to the
top of the hill called Worthy Hill — turning up the lane that
leads to Minety where a Gospel was read and a cross made.
Leaving the Inclosures belonging to the Manor of Charleton
on the left, and the wood called Dutchy Coppices on the right
we came to a place where an Oak formerly stood called Charnam
Oak where a Gospel was read and a Cross made and Money
thrown amongst the boys, and two boys fought. This is the
utmost Bound of the West part of the Perambulation of Purton.
From thence through the Dutchy Wood the land of Mr. Jacob
we came to the Dutchy lands of Mr. Nott to a house called Willis'
house . . . then to a place where an oak formerly stood
called Gospel Oak, where a Gospel was read and a cross made
andjJMoney thrown amongst the boys and to every person
there present were given Cakes and Ale. Then through the
Dutchy lands till we came to an Ale House ; then into Cricklade
1 A land gate, or langett, was a way by which a man went to get
to his " land."
128
THE STORY OF PURTON
Road, and to a gate at the end of the lane, then leaving the gate
on the left hand we went through the hedge on the right hand
into the lands of Mr. Rich being Duchy lands — we came to the
corner of the Poor's Plot where a Gospel was read and a cross
made — then through a ground called Pancake Hall, crossing
the brook into Stoake Common — to the north corner of
the Poor's Plot — where the Perambulation for this day
ended.
" Meeting the fourth day of May in Stoake Common at the
north corner of the Poor's Plot — we proceeded to the upper
end of Stoake Common, and so on directly up the Berry Hill
ground — till we came to a lane leading from Minety Common
to Momes Leaze where a Gospel was read and a cross made.
Proceeding across the end of the ground leaving the lane on
the left hand — where a Gospel was read and a cross made,
then returning down the lands of George Pitt to a pond at the
Corner of the Ragg meade . . . making a short turn on the
left hand down the Ragg meade — till we came to the Corner
of the Great Ragg where a Gospel was read and a cross made,
proceeding in a direct line till we came to a corner against
the Great Purlieu, where a Gospel was read and a cross made —
so all through the lands of George Pitt (formerly enclosed out
of the Common of Purton Stoake) till we came to a small stream
called Stoake brook, we crossed the stream into a Ground
called Monks and through another ground into Littleworth
Lane. . . . Midway in the said lane a Gospel was read and
a Cross made near the Shore of the ditch on the right hand and
also on an Ashen tree over against the same, and to every person
there present was given Cakes and Ale.
" From thence we went . . into a ground called Littleworth
then into a ground called East Mead, and also through Hay
laines and Great Hayes, and Hayes lane — where a Gospel was
read and a Cross cut on an Oak on the right hand side thereof —
then through Little Hays, and the Hayes, and Marsh furlong
— and Ten acres and Gossy Mead x and the Langett, where a
Gospel was read and a Cross made at the north east corner of
the said Langett last mentioned — from thence to a mead called
the Ham and another called the Ham, and long acres, and a
1 Gossy Head. " Goss " is Wiltshire for Restharrow.
129
THE STORY OF PURTON
small Ham, and the Lower ground, and Gamons (and two more)
Gamons and through two meads up to the River side called
the Rea, and by the River side to the bridge called Woodwards
bridge . . . where between the two bridges a Gospel was read
and a Cross made. Then we came into North mead, and
Long Hams, and Common Brook mead, and Smalways End
and Wroughton mead . . and to Common mead called Brook
mead where the river divides almost at the upper end of the
said Common mead. Then leaving both rivers on the left hand,
we came to a Mill heretofore called Elvers Mill * now Orchard
Mill, where in the Hall there at the upper end of the Table a
Gospel was read and a Penny was then paid by Orchard the
Miller (being an Ancient Custom) to the Minister of Purton.
Then we crossed the said River to the Mill Taile and went
through two little meads belonging to the said Mill, then into
a mead the lands of the Revd. Mr. Coker up the middle part
thereof to Elvers bridge leaving a watercourse heretofore a
River according to ancient Tradition and the best information
that can be had, on the left hand we came on the said bridge
called Elvers bridge where on the East side of the Bridge
belonging to the Parish of Purton a Gospel was read and a
Cross cut on the Post there.
" Then we came to Elversbridge Mead and the Moor ; then
we crossed a little Brook or Rivulet into a mead called Brimhill,
about thirty perches up to a Meer stone there, where a Gospel
was read and a Cross made. Then in a direct line from the Meer
stone to a Stone bridge and went over the same into a little
mead to the south east corner thereof — then turning up the
strait West hedge, to the back side belonging to a Farm called
Spressels, where every person there present eat cakes and drank
ale ... from thence up the said Backside to a pasture
ground part of the said farm leaving the Barns, Stables and
outbuilding in the Parish of Liddiard Millicent on the left hand,
and so up the said ground in a direct line — (through two more
grounds) to a ground of the Revd. Mr. Richard Glasse, Vicar
of Purton — then into the highway leading to Swindon where
a Gospel was read and a cross made. Then crossing the high-
1 Elvers Mill was the oldest mill in Purton, older than the mill built
by Abbot William of Coleherne. — Wilts Notes and Queries.
I30
THE STORY OF PURTON
way into a ground Land of Mr. R. Tuckey, then into Longs the
Estate of the late Mr. A. Goddard, 1 to the west Corner thereof
where a Gospel was read and a cross made ; then thro' a
ground called Free close — and the Moor and Heycroft we came
through the hedge to the waters in Jobbers lane where the
Perambulation was completed and so there ended."
1 Then part of Purton House Estate.
CHAPTER XVII
THE WORD ALE — GOSPEL OAK
IN Mrs. Story-Maskelyne's chapter on Braden Forest some
names of places occur to which belong facts of interest to
Purton folk, although not actually within the parish. On the
left of the road from Purton to Wootton Bassett is a farm
called Midgehall, and a most interesting observance takes place
annually called the Word Ale (Anglo-Saxon, "land" ale) in
this house, in turn with two others (Spittlebo rough and
Wickfield), on the first Sunday in October.
It appears that certain lands at Midgehall were given to
the now vanished Cistercian Abbey of Stanley, near Calne.
Some say Pope Innocent III. made a decree exempting all
Cistercian monasteries and their property from tithe obligations,
and that in consequence of this the tenants of these places
refused to pay tithe to the Rector after the Reformation, and
a compromise was at length agreed on between them and the
Rector of Lydiard Tregoze, under which the Convent " of their
common consent and will, having a holy respect unto charity,"
agreed to pay annually the sum of 8s., that being then (1228)
the estimated value of three oxen. 1
At the ceremony, which is yearly held in one of the three
houses, and is called " the Feast of Word Ale," those present
are bid to " pray for the Abbot of Stanley and all the monks of
the Cistercian order, by whom we are all tithe free, tithe free, tithe
free" Bread, ale and cheese composes the " feast,** and it is
supposed that were this part of the observance omitted the
full tithe could be claimed from the present owners.
Sad to say, the records connected with the Word Ale have
gone astray. One Adam Tuck, who had been steward of the
Wootton Bassett estate and Town Clerk, left in disgrace about
1 Mr. Lee Osborn's paper on the Lvdiards
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THE STORY OF PURTON
1782, and as he took with him the Wootton Bassett Charter,
which later was found amongst papers of his descendants at
Denbigh, he probably also took away the Word Ale documents.
Before the days of records being kept it was the custom to
cut a notch annually on a white rod, to show that the ceremony
had duly taken place, and " the hazel rod " has over two hundred
notches cut into it, and people say there were several rods before
this one which were lost. We have said that the feast is
composed of biead, cheese and ale, all very good, no doubt, btit
the toast must be rather a trial to drink, as it is to be composed
of a mixture of " cheese, beer and onions, with various
spices."
One authority speaks of a " loaf of white bread into which
a small White Wand, three feet long, must be stuck in a
perpendicular position, also a thin Cheese, and a small barrel
of beer. . . ." and of proceeding " to an upper chamber, where
a Bible is placed on a table," and after business is finished
" all will kneel down and repeat the Lord's Prayer before
adjoining below for the Feast. The White Wand is then given
to him whose next turn it is to hold the Court."1
Gospel Oak is the next name on the old map to claim
our attentive interest. This is a farm about three miles from
Purton, once in the Forest of Braden, and it has certainly borne
this name for many centuries. Till 1865 a time-worn oak stood
there, and tradition has it that under this tree "the early
Christians used to meet." * It is hardly credible that hands
should have been laid upon it to cut it down, but such, alas !
was the case, for unhappily some are born entirely lacking in
veneration and reverence to each generation. However, some
remnants of the tree were saved, and a large piece may now be
seen carefully lodged in the chancel of St. Sampson's Church
at Cricklade, while a smaller piece is kept in the house to which
it gives its name, the property of Mr. Godfrey-Jull, now enlarged
and adapted as a Colonial Training College. But, alas !
irrefutable evidence goes to prove that it is impossible that
under the shadow of this particular tree St. Augustine met the
British bishops A.D. 603.
1 Wills Notes and Queries, No. 67, p. 333.
1 " The original Gospel Oak had disappeared before 1733." — Wilts
Arch. Mag.
133
THE STORY OF PURTON
There is no doubt that before the coming of St. Augustine
Christianity had been fully established in Britain, but persecu-
tion drove the Christians westward, and their bishops found
refuge in the wild fastnesses of Wales. At the close of the sixth
century Gregory the Pope decided a mission must be sent to
convert the pagan Saxons, and so in 596 Augustine set forth,
at once to return dismayed at the terrors of his journey and
mission. Gregory, however, would take no denial, and he at
length, with forty companion monks, landed at Pegwell Bay,
near Ramsgate. Ethelbert was King of Kent. He promised a
hearing, and with Queen Bertha and her Christian chaplain,
Bishop Lindhard, he received the new-comers somewhere in
the Isle of Thanet.
A picturesque procession soon arrived. First a silver cross
and a painted figure of our Saviour borne aloft, then the monks
and saint followed, and solemnly chanting a litany, approached
the royal pair.
Ethelbert listened attentively, and gave them permission to
work and teach, and on Whit-Sunday, June 2nd, A.D. 597, he
was baptised a Christian. The Missionary College close to
Canterbury, which may be seen to-day, was established by
Augustine as his abbey in those early days.
Augustine soon became a bishop, returned to Aries for his
consecration, and was given by Gregory " the care of all the
Churches," and made head of the bishops.
Differences of opinion naturally arose on various subjects
as time went on, and many letters were sent to Gregory asking
for help and advice. At length Augustine decided on a
conference, and invited the bishops to meet him and each other
to discuss their difficulties.
Bishop Forrest Browne was the first to unhesitatingly decide
that Gospel Oak was this historically interesting spot, 1 which
the Venerable Bede writes of as " a place which is to this day
called Saint Augustine's Oak ... on the borders of the
Wiceii and the West Saxons." This point would be just
half-way between St. Asaph and Canterbury, so equally
convenient to both parties and so specially suitable for such an
important event. The fixing of the date for Easter was one of
1 This is not accepted by other authorities.
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THE STORY OF PURTON
the urgent problems requiring solution, amongst many others,
and it would seem that each party was so convinced of its own
view being the correct one, that agreement seemed well-nigh
hopeless. Bede tells us that the Welsh bishops " did not comply
with the entreaties, exhortations, and rebukes of Augustine,"
so the saint was at last driven to suggest that a test of miracle
should be applied to settle the vexed question of authority.
A blind man was therefore produced, and the test was the
restoration by prayer of his eyesight. The Welsh were given
the first chance, but their prayers proved unavailing. Augustine
then began to pray, and the blind man immediately received
his sight, proving St. Augustine's supernatural power. Still
unconvinced, the Welsh declined to change their ancient
customs, and begged for a second meeting with more of their
colleagues present.
Some time after this seven bishops and many learned men
arrived, having visited a saintly hermit to ask his views. He
shrewdly told them that " if Augustine was a man of God, to
follow him," and when they inquired how they might be assured
of that, he replied that our Lord had enjoined lowliness and
meekness ; if Augustine exhibited those qualities they might
accept his teaching, but if he were stern and haughty he was
not of God. Again they asked, " And how shall we discern
even this ? " The wise anchorite had probably formed his
estimate of Augustine from the reports of his " exhortations and
rebukes," and advised them to arrange that he should arrive
first at the place of meeting ; if, when they appeared, he rose
to greet them, well ; if, though they were more in number,
he did not, they were to " despise " him.
" So it turned out, Augustine remained seated. He offered
that if they would follow the Roman custom in the administra-
tion of baptism, would accept the Roman time for keeping
Easter, and would co-operate with him in his missionary work,
he would waive all the other matters. But they would do none
of these things, nor receive him as their archbishop, considering
that if he treated them with haughtiness while they were
negotiating, it was not likely that he would be more amiable
afterwards. Augustine seems to have justified their opinion
by losing his temper, and prophesying subsequent disasters to
them, which in the then state of the country were only too
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THE STORY OF PURTON
probable, and unfortunately duly befel, and so the meeting
broke up."1
On the Ordnance Map at Down Ampney " The Oak " is
marked, and it is highly probable that there the first meeting
took place, and the second at Gospel Oak. At the former
place there is still a well, said to be valuable in the healing of
eyes, like the Holywell in North Wales, where to this day
many hundreds of sufferers may be seen during the summer
months diligently bathing their eyes in the potent waters.
Having ventured so far in the direction of Crickdale, which
town is well worthy of a competent pen to tell its interesting
story, the writer would like to draw attention to the curious
fact that carved on the stone walls inside St. Sampson's Church
are four playing cards — the heart, the diamond, the spade and
the club. A year ago the following explanation came into her
hands, given by a lady2 of eighty summers, who had had it
from an aunt in days gone by, which goes to prove that there
is more meaning in a pack of cards than is generally supposed,
and that the popular idea that they were invented to amuse
a mad king of France may not be the correct one : —
" We begin with the diamonds :
" A Diamond represents a figure in Eastern philosophy
typifying the Supreme Power. It contains the shape of a cross.
The King's weapons are in the background, the face turned to
the right (see Ezekiel i. 12). The hands raised in blessing.
" Hearts :
" Faces turned the same way, weapons in the background
but wielded — supposed to represent angels or executive power.
" Spades :
" Faces turned to left, therefore represent devils, a Spade is
a Heart turned upside down, with a handle. The Queen holds
a Sceptre, the only one that does so, probably representing an
evil sway, instead of the lawful one of the others, who hold
flowers. The King wields his weapons.
1 From The Gospel Oak, by J. Lee Osborn.
* Mrs. Godley, mother of Lieut. -General Sir Alexander Godley,
K.C.M.G.. etc.
I36
THE STORY OF PURTON
" Clubs :
0 Faces turned both right and left, representing mankind.
The Club is the Cubic measure of the Heart, and has a handle
like the Spades. It also represents a trefoil emblem of the
Trinity.
" The King holds a Cross on a Globe, emblem of the Church
in the World. All suggests mankind fallen, but to be raised
by the Incarnation. All suits represent family life."
137
CHAPTER XVIII
" THE ANGEL " — REMOUNT DEPOT — WAR WORK — DEATH OF
REV. JOHN VEYSEY — INDUCTION OF REV. R. B. HARRISON
THE Angel Hotel is a picturesque old building, and has seen
many generations come and go since Henry Gleed was innkeeper
there. Many a glass of ale has been drunk since then, more
than was good for the men of Purton, no doubt, when the boast
ot 6,000 gallons being drunk was made in one fair-time.
The Magistrates used to sit there, and in Mr. Sadler's father's
time they met once a month, Lord Radnor driving over from
Coleshill to occupy the chair. For twenty-two years Mr.
Wilding has been the genial host, and in the piping times of
peace many hunting men found comfortable quarters at
" The Angel." There is a large ballroom, in which entertainments
were held.
In an old building in the yard adjoining the Play Close
may still be seen the coppers once used for brewing the ale,
and part of the old boundary wall also remains.
A game introduced, tradition says, by the charcoal burners
(who came and settled in Pavenhill from the Forest of Dean)
was " kick-shins." It was a simple game requiring no
accessories, and, as the name suggests, was just to see who would
stand longest in a " kick-shins " contest. Happily it has followed
the more knightly back-swording or single-stick into oblivion.
William Hedges, John Baker, William Slade, and James Daniels
were names to conjure with in the days of the back-swording,
and their descendants could no doubt give good account of
themselves to-day in games of skill and courage.
Purton boasts of Mr. James Kibblewhite, the famous
champion runner, as one of her sons, and an account of his
successes is worthy of record in our story of his native village.
He was born at Purton on the 6th February, 1866, started
his athletic career in 1884, and ran with phenomenal success
for ten seasons. He was selected in 1890 to run in London
before King Edward and Queen Alexandra, then Prince and
138
THE STORY OF PURTON
Princess of Wales, and during this period of ten years he won
prizes of no less than £1,200 in value.
The following are amongst his successes : —
1886. Won Twenty-five Guineas Cup at Stourbridge.
1887. Won Twenty-five Guineas Cup at Stourbridge.
1888. Won Twenty Guineas Cup at Cheltenham.
1888. Won Half Mile Championship of Wilts.
1889. Won Half Mile Championship of Wilts.
1889. Won One Mile Championship of England.
1889. Won Twenty Guineas Cup at Cheltenham.
1889. Broke Three Mile English Record and World Record in
London.
1889. Broke Three Mile Grass Record at Kennington Oval,
London.
1890. Won One Mile Championship of England. .
1890. Won Four Mile Championship of England.
1890. Won Ten Mile Championship of England.
1890. Won Ten Mile Southern Counties Cross-country
Championship.
1890. Won Two Mile Northern Championship.
1890. Won Half Mile Championship of Wilts.
1890. Won Fifty Guineas Cup at Manchester.
1890. Won the One Mile and Four Mile Championships, both
on the same day ; also One Mile Scratch Race in
London, and One Mile Handicap with 150 competitors
from scratch the same day.
1890. Won One Mile Championship of England.
1891. Won Ten Mile Southern Counties Cross-country
Championship.
1891. Won National Cross-country Championship.
1891. Won Half Mile Northern Championship.
1891. Won Fifty Guineas Cup at Manchester.
1892. Won Four Mile Championship of England.
1892. Won Twenty Guineas Cup at Fro me.
1892. Broke Four Mile Scotch Record at Glasgow.
1893. Won Twenty Guineas Cup at Fro me.
He is now employed by the Great Western Works at Swindon,
and has a son who, also a promising athlete, has fought for
his King and country.
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THE STORY OF PURTON
For twenty-five years Mr. Drew has been Purton's respected
Schoolmaster, and Mrs. Woodward teaches and fondly cares
for the infants.
The members of the Parish Council are as follows : —
Chairman, Mr. Josiah Haskins.
Vice-Chairman, Mr. John Greenham.
Clerk, Mr. Wheeler.
Messrs. E. L. Gardner, John Glass, Charles lies, Joseph
Staley, F. Sutton, E. Titherley, W. Gough, A. Baker, B. Eatwell,
John Greenaway, F. Adams, and Captain Richardson.
Purton is represented on the Board of Guardians by Messrs,
lies and Gardner and Mrs. Richardson.
Churchwardens, Captain Richardson and Mr. F. Kempster.
The Sidesmen are, Mr. H. Dash, Mr. J. Greenham, Mr. J.
Glass, Mr. A. H. Barnes, Mr. Heath, Mr. J. Kibblewhite, Mr. W.
Barnes, Mr. W. Hewer, Mr. R. G. Brown, Mr. Bull.
Sexton, Mr. Davies.
Relieving Officer, Mr. R. J. Webb.
Sanitary Officer, Mr. Hiscock.
Road Inspector, Mr. Godfrey.
Postmen, Mr. Fisher, Mr. Daniels, Mr. Shurey and Mr. Scott.
Parish Nurse, Miss Griffen.
Postmistress, Mrs. Bennett.
Rate Collector, Mr. Wheeler.
Master and Matron at the Workhouse, Mr. and Mrs. Maundrel.
Useful members of the Church choir are Mr. Webber,
Mr. Foster, Mr. Barnes, Mr. O. Smith, Mr. A. Smith, and
Mr. H. Smith.
During the Great War a large Army Remount Depot was
organised by Mr. W. H. Robson and his sons. It was an
interesting though pitiful sight to see the horses being trained
in happy and peaceful methods for the terrors awaiting them.
Special trains brought large consignments to Purton, and, tied in
sections of four, one might see perhaps a hundred of them process
through the village, led by a band of willing helpers, to their
destination on Manor Hill. Mrs. Bickford, Mrs. Bucknill,
Mr. and Mrs. Finch, Mrs. Chappell, Miss Bushby, and Miss
Pethick gave their services voluntarily to help in this work.
A number of mules were also trained there, some of which,
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THE STORY OF PURTON
arriving quite intractable, left patterns of all that a mule
should be.
A War Savings Association was well thought out and
organised, Mr. Drew, Mrs. Fox, Miss Elizabeth Redman and
Miss M. Brown doing the chief part, assisted by a band of
enthusiastic collectors, and a goodly sum weekly was rolled up.
The Misses Kempster arranged a working party weekly
for the Red Cross, and a girls' meeting for the same object
was held also, with excellent results.
A Woman's War Club was formed in October, 1914, and
met weekly in the winter months during the war for mutual
help and encouragement.
Miss Warrender, joined by Miss Story-Maskelyne, and with
Miss Walsh's help, ran the Women's Agricultural Committee.
The Soldiers' and Sailors' Family Association looked after
the needs of the wives and parents of those who had gone to
play their part so nobly, and a common anxiety and, alas ! in
many cases a common loss and sorrow, brought into touch
those who otherwise would perhaps have never met.
The writer occasionally took a nurse's place who required
rest for some weeks in a military hospital, and found it an
interesting experience, and her sister, Miss Stronge, spent
nearly a year working at a canteen in France under the Y.M.C.A.
In October, 1916, a long and well-spent life came to a close,
as with much suffering bravely borne our beloved and respected
Vicar, The Rev. John Veysey, after thirty-eight years of devoted
work and service in the parish, was called to his rest. He had
christened and married most of his parishioners who had come
to man's estate, and there was many a sad heart when it was
known that never again would his genial presence and kindly
smile be seen in Purton.
His family left shortly afterwards to reside in Swindon,
Miss Veysey, who was, in spite of much illness and suffering,
so helpful to her father, having acted as his secretary till his
death. Miss Edith Veysey took an active part in the work of
the parish, and was especially interested in the Church music ;
on leaving she was presented by her numerous friends with a
purse of gold and a watch bracelet.
One misses, too, the old lady who (though rheumatic and
stiff, and in spite of eighty summers having passed over
141
THE STORY OF PURTON
her head) faithfully each month delivered her Parish
Magazines.
" The old order changeth, giving place to new," and on
February i4th, 1917, we welcomed Mr. Veysey's successor in
the ministry here, the Rev. Robert Birch Harrison, on the roll
of Vicars the twenty-eighth. He was inducted by the
Archdeacon of North Wilts, the Rev. Ravenscroft Stewart,
and a large congregation attended the interesting and quaint
ceremony, the two Churchwardens leading the procession,
and many local clergy taking part in it.
This brings " The Story of Purton " to the present day. Much
has been left untold, but perhaps, such as it is, it may serve to
awaken at least a deeper interest in our grand old Church,
which, built and cared for by hands now long dead and forgotten,
is now for the moment our heritage, " to have and to hold "
for those who in due time shall take our places.
142
APPENDIX
ROLL OF HONOUR, WITH DATES
January.
August.
Bert Fisher . . . . ioth, 1918
Arthur Bunce . . . . ioth, 1915
John Selwood .. .. nth, 1917
Sidney Smith . . . . ioth, 1915
Herbert E. Martin, R.N. 3ist, 1918
Albert Leech .. .. nth, 1918
Ernest Kibblewhite isth, 1915
February.
Thomas R. Bartlett . . ifth, 1917
Harry Lewis . . . . ist, 1917
Frederick Staley . . i6th, 1919
Frederick J. Mills . . 22nd, 1915
George A. Paginton . . 25th, 1915
September.
March.
Ernest H. Harrison . . i8th, 1918
Anthony Brown, M.C. 4th, 1918
John Ranby Brown . . 27th, 1918
Mervyn Stronge Richardson
igth, 1916
October.
Albert Lewis . . . . 2ist, 1918
Percy Hedges . . . . 4th, 1917
Edward Williams . . 25th, 1917
Herbert S. Woolford 4th, 1918
Frank Sutton . . . . soth, 1917
Mervyn T. Webb . . 5th, 1918
Herbert Martin . . . . 8th, 1918
April.
Edward G. Mills . . ioth, 1918
Frederick Walter Sutton
Robert S. Grimes . . I3th, 1916
ioth, 1918
Thomas Embury . . i7th, 1916
Albert Bunce .. .. nth, 1919
Stanley F. Haines . . igth, 1916
Mervyn Green . . . . i6th, 1918
Reginald Jefferies . . 23rd, 1914
William Eveleigh . . 24th, 1918
May.
Victor Lovelock . . 8th, 1918
November.
Charles Landor . . . . i8th, 1918
Edward John Woolford ist, 1918
Joseph John Woolford 8th, 1918
June.
William Charles Parsons 25th, 1918
Richard Beassant . . 6th, 1918
Percy Cook . . . . 26th, 1918
Richard Selwood . . 7th, 1917
Edward Harry Hedges 28th, 1916
Frank Merchant . . 24th, 1918
Frank Burgess . . . . 28th, 1916
Frederick Nelson Daniells
July.
3oth, 1917
Harry Matthews . . 2nd, 1916
December.
Edward Curtis . . . . 6th, 1916
Edwin Saunders . . 4th, 1918
John Tuck . . . . 7th, 1916
William J. Haynes . . ioth, 1917
Percy Charles Matthews
Leonard Dunsford . . I7th, 1916
i5th, 1915
Albert Parsons . . . . 27th, 1915
143
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