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THE  LIBRARY 
OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 

LOS  ANGELES 


THE    STORY    OF    PURTON 


THE 
STORY  OF  PURTON 


Collection  of  ^(otes  and  Hearsay 

GATHERED     BY 

ETHEL     M.     RICHARDSON 


WITH     ILLUSTRATIONS 


BRISTOL 
J.  W.  ARROWSMITH  LTD.,  n  QUAY  STREET 

LONDON 
SIMPKIN,  MARSHALL,  HAMILTON,  KENT  &  COMPANY  LIMITED 

1919 


$0 

THE   DEAR   MEMORY  OF 

MERVYN    STRONGE    RICHARDSON, 

CAPTAIN    1ST    BATTALION    ROYAL    WELCH    FUSILIERS, 
BY   HIS    MOTHER 


871233 


\ 


CONTENTS 


Chapter  Page 

I.      EARLY   DAYS  .  .  .  .  .          t  .         II 

II.       STORIES      OF      PURTON — THE      DE      VESCIS,       DE 

PERITONES,    PAYNELLS   AND    KEYNES        .  •    '      *5 

III.  FOREST      RIGHTS — COLLEGE      FARM — THE      HYDE 

FAMILY         .......         21 

IV.  REFORMATION  CHANGES — INTERESTING  EVENTS — 

CHURCH  ALES — ST.  GEORGE'S  CULT        .         .       25 
V.    THE  MASKELYNE  FAMILY         «...      34 
VI.    PURTON  CHURCH — OLD  INDENTURES          .         .      38 
VII.     AN  ANCIENT  RECORD  OF  PURTON — OLD  FAMILIES 
— A  MYSTERY — THE  "  ANCREN  RIWLE  " — OLD 

PURTON  FOLK -53 

VIII.    OLD  TITHES  AND  PORTIONS — CRICKET — MILLS — 

CHARITIES         ......      62 

IX.    PURTON  HOUSE — THE  MANOR  HOUSE         .        '.      69 
X.    THE   OLD  VICARAGE — "A  FACULTY" — RESTROP 

HOUSE     .......      77 

XI.     WATKINS'  CORNER — PRESENT-DAY  RESIDENTS — 

STOKE — "CURLY  TOM"        ....      82 

XII.     PARISH  LAWS,  1733 — SEVERE  PENALTIES  .       Q2 

XIII.  LYDIARD    MANOR    HOUSE — MR.    MACKNIGHT — A 

GHOST  STORY — THE  SMOCK-FROCK — "  GRUBB- 
ING THE  MOOTS  "  .          .          .          -95 

XIV.  RED    LODGE — MR.    SADLER'S    RECOLLECTIONS — 

OLD  COINS— "YOU  COME  FROM  PURTON"     .     IOI 
XV.    PURTON  FAIR — THE  BONFIRE — THE  PLAY  CLOSE 

THE  BIND  HOUSE  ....     107 

XVI.     BRADEN  FOREST — PARISH  BOUNDARIES  (BY  MRS. 

STORY-MASKELYNE)    .....     118 
XVII.    THE  "  WORD  ALE " — GOSPEL  OAK      .         .         .     132 
XVIII.     "THE  ANGEL" — REMOUNT  DEPOT — WAR  WORK — 
DEATH  OF  REV.  JOHN  VEYSEY — INDUCTION  OF 
REV.  R.  B.  HARRISON  .         .  X       .  -      .     138 

APPENDIX — ROLL  OF  HONOUR    WITH  DATES    .     143 


LIST     OF     ILLUSTRATIONS 

ST.  MARY'S  CHURCH,  PURTON,  MANOR  HOUSE,  AND  OLD 

COTTAGES     ......          Frontispiece 

Face  page 

CHIMNEY-PIECE  IN  COLLEGE  FARM,  PURTON          .         .  21 

PURTON,  WILTS  (Old  Print] 47 

ST.  MARY'S  CHURCH,  PURTON,  BEFORE  RESTORATION     .  47 

OLD  MRS.  COOK •         •  59 

"  CURLY  TOM,"  DIED  AGED  104 59 

PURTON  HOUSE,  WILTSHIRE,  1917,  FROM  "  THE  GREEN 

WALK" 69 

THE  GREAT  CEDAR,  PURTON  HOUSE     ....  69 

THE  MANOR  HOUSE,  PURTON,  NORTH  FRONT        .         .  74 

THE  MANOR  HOUSE,  PURTON,  SOUTH  FRONT        .         .  74 

RESTROP  HOUSE,  PURTON 79 

THE  HALL,  RESTROP  HOUSE 79 

PURTON   HOUSE,   1800    (from  a   contemporary  sketch    by 

Mrs.   Story-Maskelyne)           .....  107 


FOREWORD 

MY  little  volume  has  outgrown  my  first  intention,  for  as  time 
went  on,  and  the  fact  that  a  story  of  Purton  was  being  written 
became  known,  I  received  notes  and  imormation  beyond 
what  I  had  been  led  to  expect  was  possible.  The  piecing  of 
it  together  has  helped  me  to  live  through  the  saddest  year  of  my 
life,  and  I  trust  that  what  I  have  collected  may  interest  others, 
and  perhaps  arouse  in  them  some  of  the  enthusiasm  and  love  for 
Purton  which  it  has  in  me.  I  have  quoted  freely  from  several 
volumes  of  Wilts  Notes  and  Queries,  and  from  Mr.  Ponting's 
delightful  pamphlet  on  the  Church,  which  was  written  for  the 
Wilts  Archceological  Magazine.  I  have  also  to  acknowledge 
help  from  the  Rev.  Edward  H.  Goddard  in  allowing  me  to 
quote  from  this  magazine,  and  also  for  correcting  and  assisting 
me  in  preparing  my  MSS.  for  publication.  The  volumes  I 
have  chiefly  consulted  are  Britton's  Beauties  of  Wilts,  Aubrey's 
Wiltshire  Collections,  The  New  British  Traveller,  and  an  old 
volume  called  Parish  Laws,  published  in  1733,  and  given  to  me 
by  Mr.  H.  Dash. 

I  was  also  fortunate  in  having  had  talks  with  our  late 
Vicar,  and  from  him  received  valuable  notes  and  newspaper 
cuttings.  My  thanks  are  also  due  to  Mrs.  Story-Maskelyne, 
Miss  Maud  Prower,  Mrs.  Atkinson,  and  Miss  Walsh,  and  to 
Canon  Livingstone,  Canon  Manley,  the  Rev.  R.  B.  Harrison, 
Mr.  Josiah  Haskins,  Mr.  Wilding  and  Mr.  Frank  Kempster. 
Mr.  Lee  Osborn  assisted  me  in  the  Clarendon  chapter ; 
and  I  mast  not  conclude  without  my  husband's  name,  who 
gave  me  much  sympathy  and  encouragement  in  my  task. 

E.  M.  R. 
March   zjth,   1917. 


The    Story    of   Purton 


CHAPTER     I 

0 

EARLY   DAYS 

WHICHEVER  way  one  looks  from  Purton,  the  eye  is  charmed 
by  the  view.  To  the  north  there  is  the  wide  prospect  of  gently- 
undulating  hills,  and  broad  meadows  richly  wooded,  and 
Cricklade  Church  a  bold  landmark  in  the  middle  distance. 
On  the  other  sides  there  lies  a  typically  English  rural  country- 
side, curiously  winding  roads  and  green  lanes,  as  though  there 
had  been  in  the  old  days  plenty  of  time,  and  no  need  to  hurry 
to  one's  destination. 

There  are  many  quaint  houses  jutting  in  and  out,  without 
any  order  or  scheme,  and  in  consequence  a  prospect  so  restful 
and  homelike.  We  cross  the  church  field,  and  find  a  picture 
of  rare  historical  and  archaeological  interest  in  the  group 
of  buildings  before  us. 

First  comes  the  Great  Barn,  then  the  Manor  House,  and 
beyond  the  magnificent  structure  of  our  glorious  Church, 
with  its  western  tower  and  central  spire. 

This  fine  and  stately  building  stands  with  its  surrounding 
graveyard  thickly  studded  by  the  resting-places  of  those 
villagers  who,  having  accomplished  their  "lifelong  task  of 
living,"  have  gone  for  ever  from  the  scene  of  their  labours. 

Parish  churches  with  a  western  tower  and  centra]  spire 
are  very  rare.  Three  only  exist  in  England  to-day,  one  at 
Wanborough  and  one  at  Ormskirk,  both  interesting  churches, 
but  the  writer  can  testify  to  the  greater  beauty  and  symmetry 
of  the  Purton  edifice. 

In  the  dim  and  distant  past  the  great  Forest  of  Braden  is 
supposed  to  have  covered  almost  the  whole  of  the  northern 
division  of  the  county  ;  but  of  those  dense  woods,  once  the 

ii 


THE    STORY    OF    PURTON 

home  of  wolves  and  other  wild  animals,  scarcely  a  vestige 
remains,  and  the  ancient  spelling  is  only  perpetuated  in 
Bradenstoke  Abbey — this  is  a  mediaeval  building  which 
stands  on  the  edge  of  that  long  sweep  of  hills  once  the 
natural  south-western  boundary  of  the  forest — and  in  Braden 
Pond,  a  large  sheet  of  water  near  the  village  of  Minety.  * 

The  name  of  Purton,  which  is  of  Saxon  origin,  and  signifies 
"  The  pear-tree  enclosure,"  is  spelt  in  a  variety  of  ways  in 
the  old  deeds  which  mark  the  passing  of  the  ;years — Peritone, 
Periton,  Pureton,  Puriton,  Puryton,  Pirton,  and  even  Purrton, 
but  the  old  Peritone  is  certainly  the  prettier  and  more 
distinctive  name,  as  Porton  and  a  Pirton  occasionally  cause 
trouble  to  the  Post  Office  authorities,  especially  when  the 
address  on  a  letter  is  indistinctly  written. 

The  oldest  thing  that  human  hands  have  made  at  Purton 
is  Ringsbury  Camp.  It  has  been  called  a  Roman  Camp, 
but  is  much  older,  as  its  shape  at  once  forbids  this  theory. a 
No  Roman  general  ever  encamped  his  troops  except  in  a 
regular  rectangular  camp.  Also  it  is  away  from  the  great 
lines  of  roads  which  the  Romans  made  between  great  centres 
such  as  Corinium  (Cirencester)  and  Aquae  Solis  (Bath). 

It  is  doubtless  of  the  same  age  as  the  camps  on  the  Downs. 
It  is  likely  that  these  camps  were  places  of  refuge  for  a  time  of 
danger,  each  for  its  own  tribe  or  neighbourhood. 

The  great  camp  at  Avebury  probably  dates  from  1500  to 
2000  B.C.,  at  the  end  of  the  Neolithic  and  beginning  of  the 
Bronze  Age  (the  recent  excavations  go  to  prove  this),  and 
Avebury  was  no  doubt  an  "  ancient  monument  "  when  Caesar 
came  to  Britain.  Probably  aU  the  stone  circles  were  connected 
with  worship  or  observation  of  the  heavenly  bodies.  In  the 
light  of  present-day  history  it  is  instructive  to  note  that  we  are 
told  by  no  less  an  authority  than  Caesar  that  "  the  Germans 
(those  beyond  the  Rhine)  had  no  gods  or  sacrifices  but  what 
they  could  see,  the  Sun,  Moon,  and  Fire,  and  such  is  natural 
if  all  revelation  of  religion  were  lost."  Anyhow,  at  Ringsbury 
at  various  times  Roman  coins,  and  once  a  millstone,  have 
been  unearthed. 

During  the  sixth  century  Wiltshire   experienced  the   full 

1  Wilts  Notes  and  Queries.  *  Mr.  MacKnight. 

12 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

force  of  the  Saxon  invasion,  and  the  country  round  Purton 
was  the  scene  of  many  desperate  engagements. 

Towards  the  close  of  the  seventh  century  the  Christian 
King  Cedwalla,  who  ruled  the  West  Saxons,  laid  the  foundation 
of  the  Abbey  of  Malmesbury,  and  amongst  the  earliest  grants 
made  to  that  religious  house1  was  one  bestowing  thirty-five 
hides  in  Purton,  comprising  the  chief  Manor  and  the  Rectory. 
Under  the  heading  of  Purton  are  the  words  :  "  Terra  est  XXXV 
hyd  de  orientali  parte  silvae  quae  dicitur  Bradon  Hac  dedit 
Chedwalla  rex,  Aldhelmo  Abbati." 

There  is  another  grant  of  land  in  Purton  made  by  Egeferth, 
the  Mercian  King,  A.D.  796,  and  subscribed  to  by  a  king  of  the 
West  Saxons,  Beorhtrich  by  name.  As  it  states  that  the  Mercian 
King  Egeferth  makes  it,  having  been  requested  to  do  so  by 
Beorhtrich,  King  of  the  West  Saxons,  it  seems  probable  that 
Wessex  had  become  tributary  to  Mercia.  But  a  darker  hour 
was  yet  in  store.  The  Danes  under  Guthrum  "  burst  into  the 
territory  of  Wilsaetas,"  took  the  royal  town  of  Chippenham, 
and  from  thence  harried  the  surrounding  country. 

In  905  they  "  put  to  military  execution  all  Brithendune  as 
far  as  Bradenstoke,"  and  seized,  either  in  Braden  or  thereabouts, 
all  they  could  lay  their  hands  on.  Year  after  year  the  awful 
spectacle  was  repeated,  and  the  ceaseless  series  of  invasions  in 
which  Wiltshire  played  so  prominent  a  part  continued  until 
the  Conqueror's  strong  hand  gave  the  stricken  country  peace 
at  last.  a 

Mr.  Mac  Knight  (once  of  Purton  and  Lydiard  Millicent,  and 
of  whom  more  anon)  wrote  in  1886  as  follows  : — 

"  Pavenhill  I  consider  more  interesting  than  Ringsbury. 
Canon  Prower  told  me  that  it  was  a  Danish  encampment,  and 
that  his  father  had  received  that  tradition.  This  would  carry 
it  (tradition)  back  more  than  120  years,  and  most  likely  it  came 
down  regularly  from  generation  to  generation  to  his  time  from  the 
fact  itself.  It  is  certain  that  the  hill  is  escarped  in  two  places, 
and  this  might  have  been  done  as  a  temporary  defence,  not  as 
a  permanent  military  station.  Then  just  below  it  you  have 
'  Battle  Lake/  which  name  would  connect  that  strong  position 
with  some  engagement,  and,  if  the  tradition  of  '  Danish  encamp- 
ment '  be  true,  it  would  be  between  the  Danes  and  Saxons. 

1  See  Chapter  xvi.  *  Wilts  Notes  and  Queries. 

13 


THE    STORY    OF    PURTON 

Now  Alfred  defeated  Gothrum  878,  and  according  to  William 
of  Malmesbury  required  him  to  be  baptised,  standing  as  his 
sponsor,  and  then  gave  him  East  Anglia  as  a  kingdom  tributary 
to  himself,  and  the  Saxon  Chronicle  says  that  in  879  this  army 
went  to  Cirencester  from  Chippenham  (near  which  he  had 
been  conquered),  and  stayed  a  year  there  before  moving 
eastward.  In  that  march  they  would  pass  through  Purton  to 
avoid  Orwolder  (Braden  Forest),  and  the  engagement  at 
'  Battle  Lake  '  (then  undoubtedly  undrained)  might  then  have 
taken  place.  At  least  you  have  the  tradition  of  a  Danish 
encampment,  and  a  battlefield  below  it,  and  the  historic  fact 
of  the  defeat  of  Gothrum  at  Eddington,  and  the  march  of  the 
Danish  army  (879)  from  Chippenham  to  Cirencester.  Put  all 
these  things  together,  and  do  your  best  to  give  body  to  the 
old  tradition  and  re-people  the  old  places.  Canon  Prower  was 
strong  in  his  belief  that  the  Danes  were  at  Pavenhill,  and, 
if  so,  it  must  have  been  about  that  time,  A.D.  879." * 

From  this  account  it  would  appear  that  Battle  Lake  lay 
in  the  low-lying  land  immediately  below  the  above-mentioned 
"  strong  position,"  and  the  quaint  name  of  Pond's  Gutter  which 
is  given  to  a  stream  which  flows  to-day  beneath  the  road  in 
that  direction  may  possibly  be  derived  from  its  waters  having 
in  those  old  days  helped  to  feed  Battle  Lake. 

1  Letter  to  Mr.  J.  H.  Sadler. 


CHAPTER    II 

STORIES       OF       PURTON — THE       DE       VESCIS,       DE       PERITONES, 
PAYNELLS   AND    KEYNES 

"  BISHOP  ALDHELM,  the  former  landlord  of  Purton,  was  no 
ordinary  man.  Amongst  other  miracles  wrought  by  him,  was 
the  lengthening  of  a  beam  of  wood  by  virtue  of  his  prayers. 
Then  it  is  asserted  that  the  ruins  of  a  church  built  by  him, 
though  open  to  the  skies,  were  never  wet  with  rain  during  the 
worst  weather.  His  clothes  also  were  not  of  the  human  cut,  for 
when  Aldhelm  on  one  occasion  was  at  Rome  one  of  his  garments 
remained  for  a  time  self-suspended  in  mid-air,  after  the  fashion, 
it  is  to  be  presumed,  of  Mahomed's  coffin.  But  whether  or  not 
Aldhelm  had  the  gift  of  performing  miracles  or  not,  it  is  quite 
certain  he  was  no  ordinary  man.  Martineau  in  his  Church 
History  thus  refers  to  him  : — 

"  '  Aldhelm  was  one  of  the  earliest  of  English  poets,  and 
made  his  art  subservient  to  the  higher  office  of  instructing 
the  people  in  the  knowledge  of  the  Gospel.  Having  composed 
tales  and  ballads  in  the  Saxon  tongue  on  subjects  likely  to  be 
of  popular  interest,  he  used  to  station  himself  on  a  bridge, 
or  at  the  junction  of  cross  roads, 1  and  there  sing  his  poems  to 
the  harp,  till  he  had  collected  an  audience,  then,  having  charmed 
their  ears  with  music,  he  took  occasion  to  give  them  spiritual 
instruction  for  their  souls.  Aldhelm,  moreover,  had  an  extensive 
knowledge  of  the  Greek  and  Latin  tongues,  and  the  Canon  of 
Roman  law.  For  this  he  was  in  a  great  measure  indebted  to  the 
School  of  Hadrian  at  Canterbury,  though  he  had  in  earlier  life 
been  a  pupil  of  a  learned  Scottish  monk.  He  was  also  the  first 
scholar  who  was  distinguished  for  composition  of  Latin  prose  and 
verse,  and  though  his  poetical  performances  in  that  language 
are  not  remarkable  for  elegance,  they  are  by  no  means  con- 
temptible, when  we  consider  the  barbarism  of  the  preceding 
age,  and  the  difficulties  with  which  the  student  had  to 
contend.' " 2 

1  Possibly  by  Mrs.  Walsh's  Great  Barn. 
2  Mr.  Veysey's  Notes. 

15 


THE    STORY    OF    PURTON 

The  Domesday  record  of  Purton  runs  thus  : — 

"  The  same  Church  (St.  Mary's  of  Malmesbury)  holds  Piritone. 
It  was  assessed  in  the  time  of  Edward  the  Confessor  at  35  hides. 
Here  are  24  ploughlands.  Twenty-one  hides  and  a  half  are 
in  demesne,  where  are  2  ploughlands,  and  5  servants.  20 
villagers,  12  borderers,  and  13  cottagers  occupy  19  ploughlands. 
The  Mill  pays  53.  Here  are  60  acres  of  meadow.  The  wood 
is  3  miles  square.  A  burgage  in  Crichelade,  belonging  to  this 
Manor  pays  6  pence.  It  was,  and  is  worth  16  pounds." 

Edward  de  Saresbury  held  property  in  Purton  (temp.  King 
Stephen) .  His  holding  passed  by  marriage  to  the  Bohuns,  Earls 
of  Hereford.  As  before  mentioned,  the  name  of  Purton  means 
"  The  pear-tree  enclosure,"  and  this  good  old  Saxon  name 
was  borne  by  the  once  all-powerful  family  of  de  Peritone, 
Adam  de  Peritone  owning  a  large  portion  of  North  Wilts. 
He  was  heir  to  Odred  (falconer  to  King  Henry  1 1.),  who  had 
married  a  sister  of  Sir  Thomas  de  Sampford. 

Adam's  son  was  Thomas  de  Peritone,  who,  as  will  be  seen 
later  in  our  story,  made  a  grant  of  tithes  in  the  early  part  of  the 
thirteenth  century,  and  he  was  a  person  of  some  piety,  for  he 
built  a  private  chapel  for  his  own  use,  promising  that  the  church 
should  lose  nothing  thereby.  Thomas  apparently  left  no  son 
to  succeed  to  his  inheritance,  but  three  grand-daughters, 
co-heiresses.  First  comes  Isabel,  who  married  William  de 
Vesci,  of  whom  we  read  that  he  was  "  summoned  to  Parliament 
in  1295,  and  was  one  of  the  competitors  for  the  Crown  of 
Scotland  temp.  Edward  I." l  He  was  also  mentioned  as 
"  Justice  in  Eyre  for  all  the  Royal  Forests  beyond  Trent,  and 
one  of  the  Justices  Itinerant  touching  the  pleas  of  the  Forest, 
Governour  of  Scarborough  Castle,  and  Lord  Justice  of  Ireland, 
where  he  was  Lord  of  Kildare." 

One  pictures  his  coming  to  Purton,  and  his  meeting  with 
Isabel  de  Peritone,  an  heiress  of  no  small  standing,  and  then 
perchance  the  happy  wedding  in  the  fine  old  church.  Alas  !  the 
register  does  not  go  back  so  far,  but  it  is  more  than  likely 
that  it  took  place  here,  in  the  bride's  native  village,  and 
doubtless  was  a  great  day  for  Purton  and  its  inhabitants. 

Isabel's  husband  was  a  son  of  William  de  Vesci,  and  traced 
his  descent  far  beyond  the  Norman  Conquest  to  the  founder 

1  Burke' s  Peerage,  1837,  p.  283. 
16 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

of  the  House  of  Blois  in  Normandy.  He  had  an  elder  brother 
John,  who  was  summoned  to  Parliament  as  Baron  de  Vesci 
Dec.  24th,  1264,  and  when  he  died  William  succeeded  to  his 
honours  and  estates. 

Thomas  de  Vesci  in  his  turn  followed  as  the  only  remaining 
brother  to  carry  on  the  line. 

Their  father  William  had  taken  many  precautions  that  a 
suitable  wife  should  be  found  for  the  heir  to  his  estates.  The 
taste  of  the  principals  was  not  consulted,  as  was  the  custom 
in  those  days,  and  the  record  is  strangely  unlike  the  manners 
of  to-day,  when  the  young  manage  their  own  affairs  according 
to  their  inclinations. 

In  the  Calendar  of  Patent  Rolls,  July  26th,  1253,  we  find 
on  record  that  in  case  John  the  elder  brother  should  fail  to  marry 
"  one  of  the  daughters  of  the  lord  of  Chambre  (de  Camera), 
or  of  the  vicomte  of  Aosta  (Augustensis),  as  the  queen  and  the 
said  Peter  shall  provide,"  that  William  is  to  be  the  husband  of 
one  of  the  said  ladies,  but  if  in  his  turn  William  should  fail  to 
fill  the  position  by  dying  too  soon  "  the  said  Peter  de  Sabandia 
or  his  assign  shall  have  the  marriage  of  the  next  heir,  saving 
to  the  King  the  wardship  of  the  lands  "  of  the  younger  William, 
"  during  the  minority  of  his  heirs." 

His  father  went  to  France  with  the  King  in  1253,  for  we 
find  his  name  with  others  who  had  "  protection  ...  for  so 
long  as  they  are  in  his  service  in  those  parts  with  the  King." 

The  oath  which  the  father  William  took  was  a  very  serious 
and  solemn  affair.  It  was  taken  in  the  King's  presence  at 
Portsmouth,  "on  the  day  of  St.  Mary  Magdalen,  37  Hen.  III.," 
and  it  was  to  be  enforced  by  "  four  good  men  selected  by  William, 
and  four  good  men  selected  by  the  counsel  of  the  Queen  and 
Peter  de  Sabandia,"  and  there  was  to  be  a  sum  of  money  assigned 
when  the  marriage  should  take  place. 

To  make  assurance  doubly  sure,  William  bound  himself 
"  on  his  fealty  in  the  King's  hand,"  and  Peter  swore  a  similar 
oath  "  to  procure  performance  thereof,"  and  further  William 
"  laid  himself  under  the  royal  and  ecclesiastical  jurisdiction  " 
to  fulfil  his  covenant  "  under  pain  of  1,000  marks,"  and  of  the 
Archbishop  of  Canterbury's  ecclesiastical  censure.  Amongst 
many  witnesses  to  this  were  the  Earl  of  Warwick,  John  de 
Grey,  etc. 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

Peter  de  Sabandia,  in  1254,  got  the  wardship  of  the  "  lands 
ana  heirs  of  William  de  Vesci,  together  with  the  marriage  of 
the  heirs,  the  advowsons  of  the  Churches,  liberties  and  all  things 
belonging  to  the  wardship,  so  that  he  marry  the  heirs  without 
disparagement." 

These  lands  seem  to  have  been  of  a  very  large  extent, 
including  "  demesnes,  homages,  rents,  villeinages,  woods, 
meadows,  pastures  and  other  issues,"  and  included  "  the  Castle 
and  Manor  of  Alnewyk." 

In  a  dispute  between  Henry  III.  and  Montfort,  Earl  of 
Leicester,  in  1264,  it  appears  William  de  Vesci  and  his  elder 
brother  John  joined  Leicester  against  the  King,  and  this 
incurred  the  royal  displeasure,  for  we  read  that  "Protection 
until  Michaelmas  "  was  given  to  William  de  Vesci "  for  the  Manor 
of  Kattorp,  Co.  Lincoln,  and  the  men  of  that  Manor,  which  has 
been  taken  into  the  King's  hands,  because  he  is  against  the 
King  with  John  de  Vesci  his  brother  in  the  present  disturbance 
of  the  realm."1 

There  is  the  old  Scots  saying  that  "  the  best  laid  schemes  of 
mice  and  men  gang  aft  agley,"  and  so  it  seems  to  have  been 
with  regard  to  William  de  Vesci's  marriage,  as  neither  a  lady 
of  Chambre  nor  of  Aosta,  but  as  already  stated  Isabel  de 
Peritone,  was  the  bride  selected  when  the  time  came. 

Unhappily  poor  Isabel  failed  to  provide  the  wished-for  heir, 
not  only  to  her  own  broad  acres,  but  to  those  of  her  husband, 
including  the  Barony  of  de  Vesci,  which  at  his  brother  John's 
death  came  to  him  in  1289. 

At  William's  death,  therefore,  without  lawful  male  issue, 
Gilbert  de  Aton  was  declared  his  heir,  and  after  him  the  Barony 
passed  through  many  vicissitudes  and  changes,  two  hundred 
years  later  being  vested  in  Henry  de  Vesci  (1503),  whose 
dwelling-place  is  given  as  "  our  lady  besides  the  market 
Cambridge."  3 

In  an  Indenture  of  a  sale  to  the  Rajah  of  Sarawak  on 
March  6th,  1893,  now  among  the  Purton  House  deeds,  we 
find  that  twenty-seven  acres  of  land,  including  Bark  Field  and 
the  present  gate-lodge,  were  sold  by  the  Earl  of  Shaftesbury 

1  Calendar  of  Patent  Rolls,  1258-66. 

*  His  daughter  Isabel  married  Gilbert  de  Aton.     See  Burke's  Peerage. 

8  Wills  proved  in  the  Prerogative  Court  of  Canterbury. 

18 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

and  the  Viscount  de  Vesci.  This  seems  to  suggest  that 
though  six  hundred  years  or  more  had  rolled  by,  a  de  Vesci 
still  held  a  tiny  share  of  the  broad  lands  his  family  had 
obtained  through  the  marriage  with  Isabel  de  Peritone. 

Through  her  great-great-grandmother,  the  Honourable 
Elizabeth  Vesey,  sister  of  the  first  Viscount  de  Vesci,  the 
writer  likes  to  think  of  a  slender  link  with  bygone  days  in 
Purton,  now  happily  strengthened  by  her  husband's  possession 
of  the  old  Bark  Field. 

Another  sister  of  Isabel  married  a  Keynes,  a  name  familiar 
in  several  neighbouring  villages,  and  the  youngest,  Katherine 
de  Peritone,  married  John  Paynell,  and  left  descendants. 

Of  these  Paynells  and  Keynes  we  find  some  curious  records 
in  Edward  I.'s  day,  and  later  Katherine  Paynell  owning  "  a 
capital  messuage,  etc.,  at  Puryton,"  also  64  acres  of  arable, 
10  of  meadow,  her  rent  415.,  "  works  of  four  customers,  pasture 
and  pleas,  etc.,  held  of  Robert  de  Keynes  by  service  of  rendering 
2s.  yearly  at  Feasts  of  St.  Andrew,  and  St.  Peter  ad  Vincula. 
Philip  Paynell,  her  son,  aged  25  and  more  is  her  next  heir." 

This  Philip  had  to  "  seek  his  inheritance,"  and  in  a  writ 
to  prove  it,  which  lay  "  as  well  in  the  King's  hand,  as  in  the 
wardship  of  Katherine  Paynell,  his  mother,  in  the  nineteenth 
Edward  I.,"  we  read  as  follows  :  "  Jn  de  Cantebe  says  year  of 
that  the  said  Philip  was  born  at  Pyriton  in  hundred  of 
Staple,  on  the  day  of  the  Assumption,  about  the  ist  hour, 
53  Henry  III.,  and  was  baptized  in  the  Baptistry  of  St.  Mary's 
Church  Pyriton,  by  Richard, *  then  vicar,  on  the  morrow,  at 
the  morning  hour  (hora  matutina). 

"  Philip  Basset,  uncle  of  the  sd.  Philip's  Mother,  who  was 
then  at  his  manor  of  La  Fasterne,  *  being  asked  to  be  godfather, 
sent  his  friends  (familiares)  Hugh  de  Courteney  and  Jn  de 
Pyriton  to  lift  him  from  the  font,  and  give  him  the  name  of  sd. 
Philip  Basset,  and  Agnes,  then  the  wife  of  Roger  de  Writel, 
held  him,  and  was  his  godmother.  He  is  certain  of  the  time, 
for  one  Jn.  le  Frie  of  Pyriton,  married  one  Emma  at  Hockday, 
before  the  sd.  Philip's  birth,  and  the  witness  met  him  leading 
his  wife,  with  a  great  company,  and  struck  one  Wm. 
Champeneys,  who  was  very  abusive,  heavily  on  the  head 
with  a  staff,  for  which  he  was  heavily  amerced  in  the  hundred 

1  Ricardius  de  Bristolia.  *  Now  Vasterne  Manor. 

19 


THE   STORY    OF    PURTON 

(court)  of  Worth,  and  made  pecuniary  amends."  (Writ  made 
at  Malmesbury  as  "  proof  of  age  "  on  Sunday,  Feast  of  Saint 
Swithin,  19  Edward  I.) 

One  of  the  witnesses  "  Philip  de  Forde  agrees,"  adding  "  that 
the  aforesaid  Vicar  who  baptized  the  said  Philip  was  born  at 
Cirencester." x 

Eleanor  Keynes  owned  10  marks  rent  in  Purton  and 
Chelworth  in  Edward  III.'s  reign. 

Later,  one  John  Sothill  in  Henry  VI I. 's  day,  held  the 
"  Manor  of  Pereton  "  from  the  Abbot  of  Malmesbury,  and  a  sad 
description  of  his  heir,  George,  runs  thus,  "  George  Sothill, 
aged  30  and  more,  a  natural  idiot  from  his  birth,"  the  manor 
being  valued  at  £10.  On  account  of  his  infirmity  the  King 
held  the  "  natural  fool  and  idiot's  "  manor,  and  his  sisters  were 
named  his  heirs,  on  his  death  at  the  early  age  of  38  years. 

In  an  Inquisition  quoted  in  the  Wilts  Archceological  Magazine 
we  find  references  to  a  De  Peritone,  a  Walrond,  and  a  Keynes 
as  follows  : — 

Richard  de  Peryton  made  a  grant  of  a  knight's  fee  and 
advowson  in  Wodbergh  to  Thomas  de  Beauchamp,  Earl  of 
Warwick,  in  1370. 

William  Walrond  "  held  in  his  demesne  as  of  fee,  two 
carucates  of  land  in  Peunhull, 2  from  Malmesbury  Abbey  by  rent 
of  153.  yearly,  and  a  suit  of  court  twice  a  year  at  the  Manor  of 
Puryton  worth  403.  a  year  clear  "  in  1369. 

John  de  Keynes  in  1376  "  held  in  his  demesne,  as  of  fee, 
in  the  vill  of  Puryton  the  Manor  of  Keynes  from  the  Abbot  of 
Malmesbury,  by  what  services  the  jurors  do  not  know.  It  is 
worth  10  marks  yearly  clear." 

1  c.  Edw.  I.,  File  60(5)  Cal.  Mg.,  Vol.  ii.,  No.  819. 
«  Pavenhill. 


20 


CHIMNEY-PIECE    IX    COLLEGE    EARM,   PURTON. 


CHIMNEY-PIECE    IX    COLLEGE    EARM,   PURTON. 


CHAPTER    III 

FOREST    RIGHTS — COLLEGE  FARM — THE  HYDE   FAMILY 

BRITTON  the  antiquary  tells  us  that  "  the  Parish  of  Purton  is 
very  extensive,  and  comprises  a  considerable  part  of  the  Forest 
of  Braden,"  which,  he  adds,  "  is  now  almost  destitute  of  wood, 
and  much  of  it  is  enclosed  and  cultivated.  It  is  termed  by  old 
writers  Brithendune  or  Bredon  Wood.  From  the  Roll  of  Peram- 
bulations of  Forests,  it  appears  that  in  the  I2th  of  Henry  III. 
Brayden,  then  called  an  ancient  forest,  was  the  property  of 
Thomas  de  Sampford.  In  the  28th  of  Edward  I.  it  belonged 
to  the  family  of  Peverell.  In  the  45th  of  Edward  III.  Hugh  de  le 
Spencer  bought  Peverell's  Woods  of  Sir  John  Wroxhall,  and 
Spencer,  being  attainted  of  treason,  his  possessions  were  forfeited 
to  the  Crown.  Braden  Forest  was  then  given  to  the  King's 
fourth  son,  Edmund  de  Langley,  Duke  of  York.  Among  the 
Lansdowne  manuscripts  in  the  British  Museum  is  a  copy  of 
a  warrant  to  Richard,  Earl  of  Cambridge,  dated  the  8th  of 
Richard  II.,  authorising  him  to  fell  timber  in  Braden  Forest. 
This  nobleman,  who  was  the  second  son  of  the  Duke  of 
York,  was  in  1415  beheaded  for  a  conspiracy  against  his  cousin, 
Henry  V.,  and  Braden  again  reverted  to  the  Crown. 

"  In  the  fifth  year  of  Charles  I.  the  Forest  of  Braden  was 
disafforested,  when  100  acres  of  it  were  allotted  to  the  poor  of 
Cricklade,  150  acres  to  the  free  holders  of  the  inner  boundary 
of  the  said  Forest,  25  acres  to  the  poor  of  The  Leigh  in  the  Parish 
of  Ashton  Keynes,  and  25  acres  to  the  poor  of  Purton  Stoke  ; 
all  the  aforesaid  parties  having  had  right  of  common  in  the 
Forest,  and  having  put  in  their  claims  to  a  compensation  for 
the  loss  of  their  rights.  * 

"  The  farmers  who  occupied  the  lands  after  the  disafforesta- 
tion  claimed  exemption  from  poor  rates  on  account  of  the  grant 
of  lands  out  of  the  Forest  to  the  poor,  but  their  claim  was  set 
aside,  and  they  have  paid  poor  rates  for  many  years." 

Some   of   the   grants  connected   with   Braden   Forest   are 

1  See  Chapter  viii. 
21 


THE   STORY    OF    PURTON 

peculiar,  i.e.  by  gift  of  Henry  IV.  the  Abbey  of  Cirencester 
was  entitled  to  four  does  a  year  from  Braden  Forest.  The 
Prior  of  the  Hospital  of  St.  John  the  Baptist  at  Wootton  Bassett 
(and  subsequently  the  Vicar)  enjoyed  the  right  to  cut  trees 
to  build  his  house,  and  to  hunt  with  bow  and  hound  without 
hindrance  from  gamekeepers  in  Braden  Forest.  Some  lands 
in  Purton,  probably  part  of  Braden  in  1472,  maintained  a 
chantry  in  Ramsbury  Church.  The  first  Earl  of  Clarendon, 
Edward  Hyde,  was  not  born  in  Purton,  but  his  father,  Henry 
Hyde,  lived  in  what  is  now  the  College  Farm,  at  present  occupied 
by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  C.  J.  lies,  under  Worcester  College,  Oxford. 
On  a  chimney-piece  in  one  of  the  rooms  there  is  a  shield  of 
arms  of  the  Earl's  grandmother,  one  of  the  Sibell  family,  viz. 
a  tiger  looking  backwards  in  a  mirror.  Lord  Clarendon  tells 
us  that  in  his  seventeenth  year,  "  being  seized  with  an  illness  at 
the  Middle  Temple,  his  friends  much  feared  a  consumption,  so 
his  uncle  (Sir  Nicholas  Hyde,  of  Marlborough,  Lord  Chief 
Justice)  thought  fit  to  send  him  into  the  Country  to  Pirton  in 
North  Wiltshire,  whither  his  Father  had  removed  himself 
from  Dinton"  (where  the  Chancellor  was  born  1608),  "choosing 
rather  to  live  upon  his  own  land,  the  which  he  had  purchased 
many  years  before,  and  to  rent  Dinton,  which  was  but  a  lease 
for  lives  to  a  tenant."  While  living  in  this  house  at  Purton 
he  relates  a  strange  coincidence,  for  he  tells  us  that  "  whilst 
he  was  reading  to  his  Father  in  Camden's  Annals  in  Latin, 
the  particular  passage  relating  to  a  certain  John  Felton  who 
had  fixed  the  Pope's  Bull  against  the  Bishop  of  London's 
Palace  gate,  a  person  of  the  neighbourhood  knocked  at  the 
door,  and  told  them  that  a  post  had  just  gone  through  the 
village  to  Charlton,  the  Earl  of  Berkshire's,  to  inform  the  Earl 
that  the  Duke  of  Buckingham  was  killed  the  day  before  by 
another  John  Felton" 

His  two  elder  brothers  dying,  the  Chancellor  succeeded 
to  the  property,  having  apparently  recovered  his  health  in 
the  salubrious  air  of  Purton. 

He  married  firstly  Anne,  daughter  of  Sir  John  Ayliffe,  of 
Grittenham,  in  the  adjoining  parish  of  Brinkworth. 

She  died  of  smallpox  in  the  first  year  of  marriage,  2nd  July, 
1632,  aged  20.  Mr.  Hyde  was  elected  member  for  Wootton 
Bassett  and  Shaftesbury,  but  chose  the  former. 

22 


THE    STORY    OF    PURTON 

He  then  married  as  his  second  wife  a  daughter  of  Sir 
Thomas  Aylesbury.  The  "  Short  Parliament "  coming  to  an 
end,  he  was  re-elected  for  Saltash,  and  represented  that  con- 
stituency in  the  celebrated  "  Long  Parliament."  His  cautious 
disposition  gradually  weaned  him  from  the  popular  side,  and 
he  became  a  supporter  of  the  King,  who  in  return  for  this 
knighted  him,  and  created  him  Chancellor  of  the  Exchequer.  He 
travelled  on  the  Continent  with  the  King,  acting  as  his  adviser 
and  secretary,  and  later  on  was  appointed  to  draw  up  the 
famous  Declaration  of  Breda. 

In  1660  he  was  raised  to  the  Peerage  as  Earl  of  Clarendon. 
He  was  in  favour  of  a  policy  embracing  the  supremacy  of  the 
Anglican  Church,  and  earned  by  his  severe  policy  the  hatred 
of  the  Puritan  party.  He  opposed  the  Dutch  War,  which  was 
popular  in  the  country,  and  busied  himself  in  raising  large  sums 
of  money  for  the  Crown.  Amongst  other  causes  of  his  un- 
popularity was  the  idea  that  he  favoured  the  King's  marriage 
with  Katherine  of  Braganza,  knowing  that  she  was  unlikely  to 
have  children,  and  so  to  make  practically  certain  that  his 
daughter  Anne,  who  had  secretly  married  the  King's  brother, 
James,  Duke  of  York,  should  some  day  be  Queen  of  England. 
Anne  Hyde  had  gone  to  Court  at  the  age  of  22  as  maid  of  honour 
to  a  sister  of  the  King.  She  at  once  captivated  James's  fancy,  but 
wisely  insisted  on  a  regular  marriage.  She  eventually  became  the 
mother  of  eight  children,  two  of  whom,  Mary  and  Anne,  were 
in  turn  Queens  of  England.  When  the  story  of  the  marriage 
was  known,  Clarendon  became  the  object  of  much  popular 
abuse,  and  he  was  much  alarmed,  for  he  then  turned  on 
Anne,  laying  the  blame  at  her  door.  She  was  no  doubt 
given  to  much  extravagance,  and  was  of  a  proud  and  arrogant 
disposition.  Later  on  she  joined  the  Roman  Catholic  Church, 
and  dying  in  1671,  was  buried  in  Westminster  Abbey.  It 
has  been  said  that  Anne  was  born  at  College  Farm,  but  such 
was  not  the  case,  though  much  of  her  childhood  was  probably 
spent  there. 

But  darker  days  were  in  store  for  Clarendon.  The  House  of 
Commons  in  1667  impeached  him  for  treason,  and  Charles 
warned  him  to  expect  no  protection  or  help  from  him.  He 
then  left  these  shores  for  the  South  of  France,  where  he  wrote 
his  noted  books,  The  History  of  the  Great  Rebellion,  and  his 

23 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

Autobiography.  Dying  there  in  1674,  his  remains  were  brought 
home  to  Westminster  Abbey,  where  they  lie  in  the  vault  with 
others  of  his  family  at  the  foot  of  the  steps  leading  to 
Henry  VII. 's  Chapel. 

Everyone  who  goes  to  London  has  seen  Hyde  Park,  but 
few  who  enjoy  its  sylvan  beauties  realise  that  this  princely 
gift  was  bestowed  upon  London  by  this  very  Lord  Clarendon, 
in  acknowledgment  of  which  he  received  a  gilt  key  and  the 
right  to  enter  the  Park  at  any  time  he  chose.  Surely  we 
Purton  folk  may  feel  (even  though  the  best  part  of  three  centuries 
has  rolled  away  since  the  gift  was  made)  a  reflected  glory  and 
satisfaction  that  a  Purton  man  was  able  to  offer  and  bestow 
upon  the  nation  so  great  a  boon  while  time  shall  run.  The 
great  parks  are  truly  called  the  "  lungs  of  London,"  for  the 
wonderfully  healthy  record  of  that  great  city  is  in  no  small 
measure  attributable  to  these  open  spaces,  and  the  millions  who 
enjoy  Hyde  Park  as  each  year  passes  might  at  least  give  a 
kindly  thought  to  the  Purton  Chancellor  who  did  so  much  for 
them,  their  ancestors  and  descendants. 

There  is  no  doubt  that  the  wall  which  encircles  College  Farm 
is  of  an  ancient  date,  and  must  have  stood  there  long  before 
the  road  which  runs  round  it  was  made.  This  is  obvious  from 
the  fact  that  a  curve  begins  from  where  the  Post  Office  stands, 
and  the  straight  road  continues  its  line  just  beyond  where  the 
wall  turns,  so  it  is  evident  that  the  road  only  deflected  to  avoid 
the  wall  already  there". 

The  postern  gate  which  breaks  the  wall  has  a  pretty  arch, 
and  probably  dates  from  about  1680,  but  may  be  older. 


24 


CHAPTER    IV 

REFORMATION  CHANGES — INTERESTING  EVENTS — CHURCH  ALES— 
ST.  GEORGE'S  CULT 

"  AT  the  close  of  the  sixteenth  century x  the  so-called  Reforma- 
tion was  proceeding  in  a  resolute,  if  not  a  relentless  manner. 
The  very  principles  of  our  religion  were  being  slighted  and 
impugned,  the  outward  forms  so  venerated  by  generations  in 
the  past  were  treated  with  the  utmost  contempt,  the  stately 
ceremonial  was  regarded  as  slavish  idolatry,  and  even  the 
surplice  was  flung  aside  as  superstitious.  A  spirit  of  destruction 
passed  over  the  land,  the  churches  were  desecrated,  and  the 
materials  of  the  most  exquisite  shrines  were  removed,  and  sold 
for  what  they  would  fetch." 

The  following  is  an  extract  from  a  document  of  the  time  of 
Edward  VI.,  dealing  with  the  spoliation  of  Purton  Church  : — 

"  Interrogatories  to  be  mynystered  on  the  part  of  Sir 
Edmund  Bryddges  Knight. 

"  First,  whether  Browne  and  Jaakes,  servantes  unto  Benet 
Joy,  dyd  stele  and  convey  awey  the  Image  of  Seynt  George 
ouzt  of  Puryton  Church,  and  caryed  the  same  to  the  Mancion 
house  of  Joys  or  no. 

"  Item,  whether  one  of  the  Church  wardens  commanded 
them  soo  to  doo,  or  by  whose  commande  they  so  did,  and  who 
byd  them  put  hit  into  the  wole  house  of  Joys',  and  for  what 
intent  the  same  was  caryd  away  more  than  the  other  images. 

"  Item  whether  Browne  and  Jakes  did  confesse  the  takying 
away  the  said  image,  and  whether  they  toke  the  same  ageyn 
oultzt  of  the  woll  house  and  caryd  hyt  to  the  Church  ageyn, 
or  who  caryd  the  same  image  to  the  Church. 

"  Item,  whoo  commanded  them  to  bring  hit  to  Church  and 
what  was  the  cause,  or  did  they  bring  hyt  of  their  owne  free 
will. 

"  Item.  Whether  the  seid  Sir  Edmund  Bryges  did  convey 
away  his  trees  owzt  of  Joys'  ferme  grounde  with  as  much  spede 

1  Wilts  Arch.  Mag.,  vol.  xxxiii.,  p.  145,  etc. 
25 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

as  he  could  gett  caryage,  or  whether  he  sufferyd  them  to  lye 
of  purpose  to  destroy  Joys'  grasse. 

"  Item.  Whether  the  bearward  to  Sir  Edmund  Bryges  be 
a  natural  foole,  or  folishe  or  noo." 

Certain  acres  in  Purton  were  set  apart  for  the  maintenance 
of  church  lights,  and  at  the  Buthaye  (which  once  stood  behind 
the  cottage  on  Mrs.  Walsh's  property,  now  occupied  by  Mr. 
Davis  the  verger)  was  brewed  "  Seynt  George's  ale,"  the  proceeds 
of  the  sale  of  which  were  dedicated  to  the  use  of  St.  George  and 
his  priest.  The  old  cottage,  which  was  pulled  down  in  1901, 
showed  an  absence  of  windows  in  front  upstairs,  the  inside  was 
more  interesting.  In  the  principal  living  room  beside  the 
hearth  was  a  four-foot-square  alcove  with  an  opening  into  a 
dark  chamber  above.  In  this  room  there  was  no  window 
or  any  approach  except  through  this  alcove.  The  inference 
we  draw  is  that  it  was  as  it  remained  since  Benedict  Joy 
answered  the  above  interrogatories. 

On  the  subject  of  the  disputes  between  Lord  Chandos  and 
the  Pulleys,  and  also  of  the  various  schemes  employed  to  raise 
funds  necessary  for  the  Church's  expenses,  the  writer  gratefully 
acknowledges  the  following  most  interesting  notes  written  for 
this  volume  by  Mrs.  Story-Maskelyne  : — 

Purton  in  the  days  of  Queen  Elizabeth  was  in  the  throes 
of  supremely  interesting  events,  which  were  of  the  greatest 
importance  to  its  inhabitants,  events  giving  rise  to  questions 
relating  to  the  religion  of  the  land  and  to  the  common  rights  of 
the  people.  In  both  questions  the  Brydges  family  were 
concerned  and  played  a  prominent  part. 

Sir  J.  Brydges  had  been  Groom  of  the  Bedchamber  to 
King  Henry  VIII. ,  and  was  created  Baron  Chandos  by  Queen 
Mary  for  his  share  in  suppressing  Wyatt's  rebellion.  He  had 
acquired  the  monastic  lands  at  Purton  and  elsewhere,  too, 
after  the  Dissolution  of  the  Monasteries. 

These  monastic  suppressions  were  the  cause  of  much  bitter 
feeling,  which  accompanied  the  profound  religious  changes  all 
over  the  country  during  the  reigns  of  Henry  VIII.,  Edward  VI., 
Mary  and  Elizabeth,  one  result  being  that  the  lease  of  the 
Manor  and  Rectory  of  Purton,  given  in  1515  by  the  Abbot  of 
Malmesbury,  in  anticipation  of  coming  troubles,  to  R.  Pulley, 

26 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

his  wife,  and  four  young  children  in  survivorship,  was  after 
the  Dissolution  held  by  Lord  Chandos,  although,  as  the  rent 
was  reserved,  it  was  many  years  before  he  came  into  full 
possession.  The  Manor  rented  at  £g  i6s.  od.,  the  Rectory  at 
£12,  and  the  Tithes  405.  were  paid  yearly  at  the  Feasts  of 
Lady  Day  and  Michaelmas,  from  which  we  may  presume  that 
the  grand  old  tithe  barn  was  by  that  time  no  longer  filled,  as  of 
old,  with  the  tithe  in  kind,  which  used  to  cover  its  spacious  floors 
in  the  days  of  the  Abbot  of  Malmesbury,  405.  being  paid  instead. 

In  the  days  when  the  families  of  R.  Pulley  and  J.  Brydges 
both  considered  themselves  lawfully  entitled  to  possession 
of  the  former  Abbey  lands  it  was  inevitable  that  disputes 
should  arise. 

In  Edward  VI. 's  time  a  curious  case  in  point  arose  when 
the  tenure  of  Isabel,  daughter  of  R.  Pulley,  and  now  wife  of 
Bennet  Joy,  after  peaceable  enjoyment  of  the  Manor  and  Rectory 
for  many  years,  was  called  in  question  and  her  house  forcibly 
entered  by  the  servants  of  Sir  E.  Brydges.  For  this  and  other 
serious  indictments  she  brought  an  action  against  him,  accusing 
him  of  molestation  and  persecution  of  many  kinds,  amongst 
others  the  following  :  "  They  did  breke  and  enter  into  the  duff 
house  and  killed  all  the  douves,  and  distroyed  the  duff  house." 
They  destroyed  the  well  with  refuse,  and  prevented  the  Pulleys 
from  collecting  "  the  20  loodes  of  wood  they  were  entitled  to 
'  get  in  Braden.' "  It  was  also  said  that  "  they  entered  the 
Court  with  a  hand  gun  and  dyd  shote  and  kyll  the  hennes  and 
capons,  and  dayly  shoteth  his  doves  and  pultry  ...  so 
that  his  servants  went  in  terror  of  their  lives."  The  Brydges 
family  seem  to  have  kept  a  bear,  for  one  of  the  accusations 
brought  against  him  was  that  "  his  beareward  and  his  servants 
did  course  a  Beare  upon  the  ground  called  '  Wyndmill  Hill '  * 
at  the  time  when  the  cows  were  in  calf  thus  causing  much  loss." 
Last,  but  not  least,  was  the  accusation  of  the  forcible  entry 
into  the  "  house  of  Joys." 

.  The  event  which  led  to  this  forcible  entry  into  Joys' 
house  was  preceded  by  an  order  from  the  King  for  removing 
"  all  images  and  Idolls  from  the  Church  of  Puryton,"  when 
G.  Messenger,  one  of  the  Wardens  of  the  Parish  Church, 

1  Now  part  of  the  park  at  Purton  House. 
27 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

who  had  been  appointed  by  the  King's  Visitor,  "  repeired  to 
the  Church  (on  the  2Qth  Jan.,  1547-48)  with  diverse  of  his 
neighbours  and  there  pulled  down  all  Images  and  Idolls  within 
the  said  Church,  according  to  the  Commandment  .  .  .  and 
as  it  became  true  subjects  to  doe,  which  after  they  soe  did,  they 
did  shutt  and  put  all  the  same  images  in  a  corner  of  the  Church, 
appointing  them  to  be  sold,  and  the  money  thereof  coming 
to  be  put  into  the  Poor's  men's  box,  to  such  uses  as  the  Visitor 
appointed,  then  the  Churchwarden  and  others  departed." 
Whereupon  Isabel  was  overheard  by  her  servants,  saying  that 
"much  lyking  the  image  (of  St.  George)  wished  she  had  the 
same  at  home  in  her  house,"  and  "  that  it  was  a  pity  to  deface 
the  same."  Her  servants  then  "  stole  the  Image  from  the 
Church  and  carried  it  to  the  Wool  house  belonging  to  the 
Mansion."  Next  came  the  servants  of  Sir  E.  Brydges,  "  who 
broke  upon  the  door  with  a  pyked  staff  in  search  of  the  stolen 
Image  which  they  took  forth  and  carried  to  the  Church  ageyn." 

Transactions  such  as  the  above  must  have  been  deeply 
resented  by  parishioners  still  belonging  to  the  older  faith,  as 
were  the  family  of  R.  Pulley,  to  which  belonged  both  Isabel 
and  her  niece  Jane,  wife  of  George  Maskelyne,  who,  when  an 
old  woman  after  a  widowhood  of  over  sixteen  years,  made  her 
last  will.  Her  memory  would  carry  her  back  over  three-fourths 
of  a  century  of  profound  changes.  She  was  almost  to  a  year 
the  contemporary  of  her  sovereign  lady  Queen  Elizabeth. 
Reared  in  the  older  faith,  she  had  seen  the  beautiful  Church  of 
Purton  in  the  full  glory  of  the  ancient  rite,  and  the  vain  longing 
for  one  at  least  of  its  accessories  found  a  pitiful  expression  in 
a  clause  thus  : — 

"To  the  Bells  of  Pyrton  XX's  and  the  increase  of  403. 
towards  the  yearly  maintenance  of  one  to  play  uppon  the 
organs  in  the  parish  Church  of  Pyrton  aforesaid,  whensoever 
the  parishioners  there  shall  and  will  provide  and  hire  one  to 
play  uppon  the  same."  1  She  further  desired  in  her  will  to  be 
buried  near  her  grandfather  Pulley,  the  conventual  lessee  of 
the  church  lands  of  Malmesbury  Abbey,  in  the  chancel  of  the 
Church.  Those  days  were  indeed  a  contrast  to  what  Isabel 
Joy  must  have  remembered,  when  as  a  little  child  the  old 
Abbot  of  Malmesbury  and  the  monks  accompanying  him 

1  A.  S.-M. 
28 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

came  to  the  house  of  her  father  in  Purton  to  receive  their  dues 
at  the  court  holden  on  the  Manor,  when,  as  we  find  recorded 
by  one  of  the  former  monks  of  Malmesbury,  he  saw  "  Isabel 
then  a  young  gyrle  of  ii  or  iii  years  of  age,  playing  up  and  down 
in  her  father's  house,"  whom  the  then  Abbot  did  much  county- 
nance  and  did  play  withal "  and  "  would  jest  withal  and  call  yt 
wife."  (Star-Chamber  Proceedings,  W.  &  M.,  vol.  xxxiii.,  p.  145 
et  seq.) 

With  the  passing  of  those  days  passed  also  the  remembrance 
of  very  much  else,  such  as  the  uses  for  which  the  church  lands 
had  originally  been  given,  and  it  came  to  be  supposed  that 
"  certain  lands  which  had  been  given  to  superstitious  uses,  and 
so  employed  in  the  reign  of  King  Henrie  8th,  had  been  withheld 
and  consealed  from  her  Highness  Queen  Elizabeth."      To  clear 
up  these  points  a  commission,  consisting  of  Sir  W.  Brydges 
and   others,  was  appointed   in    1592    (the   thirty-fourth   year 
of    Queen  Elizabeth's  reign).     Amongst  the  witnesses  called, 
R.  Plover,  an  old  man  aged  86,  said  that  he   "  had  known  all 
the  parcels  of  land  in  question  all  his  life  ;  and  that  these  church 
lands  were  at  one  time  held  by  one  Th.  Shurmer  who  did  main- 
tain the  lights  such  as  the  Trinity  light  and  other  tapers  in  the 
Church  on  holy  days  and  Festmatt  days    .    .    .    and  that  he 
used  to  light  and  put  them  out."     Also  that  "  the  Churchwardens 
had  the  letting  of  the  church  lands  in  respect  of  their  office  "  ; 
that  "  the  Buthies  belonged  to  the  maintenance  of  the  Image 
of  St.  George  and  of  his  Priest,  who  did  long  time  agone  use  to 
praie  for  the  Brethren  and  Sisters  of  St.  George.     The  two 
Ale   Stewards   were   yearly   chosen   by  the   parishioners   and 
were  called  St.  George's  Ale  Stewards,  and  they  did  brew  an 
ale  called  St.  George's  Ale     .     .     .     and  they  had  the  use  of 
the  ground  called  the  Butheys  and  did  make  therin  St.  George's 
Buttes    .    .    .    then  as  now.     The  increase  of  their  ale  and  rent 
of  the  Butheys  did  maintain  St.  George  and  his  Priest    .    .     . 
till  the  Image  and  his  Priest  were  abolished  and  the  lights  taken 
out  of    the  Church,"    after  which    "  the  Churchwardens  did 
enter  and  take  to  all  the  said  lands,  and  employed  the  same 
to  the  use  of  the  Parish  Church  of  Pirton."    The  church  lands 
which  are  here  alluded  to,  and  which  had  belonged  to  the  Church 
"  tyme  whereof  no  memory  of  man  runneth  belonging,"  were 
in  1577  and  1582  let  by  the  Churchwardens  to  George  Maskelyne 

29 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

and  his  heir,  his  son  Edmund  being  in  possession  of  the  leases 
at  the  time  of  the  "  Depositions."  They  were  then  said  to 
be:— 

i  acre  lying  in  Woodward  Crofte 

one  £  acre  in  the  Hourne  l 

one  \  acre  lyeth  in  Hilly  Meade 

one  \  acre  lieth  in  Barfield 

one  |  acre  lieth  at  the  Downe  end. 

one  acre  and  half  at  Clardon 

half  an  acre  lieth  at  Shilfinche 

and  one  parcel  or  parocke  lyeth  in  Restrop  * 

and  also  one  parcel  of  land  called  the  Buthies. 
It   may   be  of  interest   to  append  the  list  of  lands  leased 
to  George  Maskelyne  in  1577  and  1582,  as  throwing  light  on 
where  these  church  lands  were. 

Leased  to  George  Maskelyne  his  son  and  daughter  for  life, 
4  acres  arable  land  and  meadow  lying  dispersed  in  the  Fields 
and  Meadows  of  Purton  called  the  church  lands  belonging^to 
the  use  of  the  Parish  Church  of  Pirton. 

1577.     20  Elizabeth.  1582.     24  Elizabeth. 

acres.  acres. 

i.  2.  o.  lieth  on  the  South     =     i|  in  Clardon. 
end  of  Clardon  shooting   on 
Holbrook  Way. 

o.  2.  o.  at  the  South  end     =     \  at  the  Downe  End. 
of  the  Downe. 

o.  2.  o.  in  Barfield  shooting     =     \  in  Barfield. 
upon  Smith  Mead. 

0.  2.  o.    upon     Bremhill     =     J  in  Hilly  Land, 
shooting  East  and  West. 

1.  o.  o.    upon     Shilfinch  f|  in  Shilfmch. 
shooting    upon     HolliewelTs          |j  above  Hollie  well. 
Hamme. 

o.  2.  o.   in  the  Pry  in   a     =     i  in  Woodwards  Croft 
parcel  of  mead  called  Dry-  (arable).     \    in    the 

acres.  Hurne  (mead),  (called 

the    Lampland     by 
R.  Plover). 

1  Called  by  R.  Plover  "  The  Lampacre." 
*  Spoken  of  elsewhere  as  "Hollie  Well." 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

Gostie  Mead  is  called  Lampacre  in  old  deeds,  and  paid 
sixteen  pence  for  a  light  in  Purton  Church.  Goss  is  the  Wiltshire 
name  for  Restharrow.  Gostie  Mead  was  part  of  Ware's  "  Old 
Lands  "  in  Bentham,  sold  to  Edmund  Maskelyne. 

Most  of  these  church  lands  can  still  be  made  out  on  the 
old  Parish  Map  of  Purton,  dated  1744. 

It  may  be  well  here  to  give  some  explanation  of  the  Church 
Lights  and  Church  Ales,  which  are  constantly  referred  to  in 
Churchwardens'  Accounts  in  pre-Reformation  days. 

From  the  accounts  of  St.  Edmund's  at  Sarum,  during  the 
yeais  1443  to  1702,  we  get  the  names  by  which  many  such 
Church  Lights  were  known,  e.g.  The  Trinity  Light,  The  Wife's 
Light,  Maiden's  Light,  Servant's  Light,  Rood  Lights,  and 
many  Saints'  Lights.  The  Rood  Light  was  supported  by  the 
devotion  of  the  people  ;  others  were  supported  by  collections 
made  in  Church  or  by  Guilds  and  Brotherhoods.  "  The  hire 
of  XXth  Shepe  which  J.  Ludlow  did  give  to  the  maynteyning 
of  St.  Sebastians  Light "  brought  in  twelve  shillings. 

"  The  stewards  of  each  light  received  a  certain  sum  as 
•  Stock '  for  maintaining  their  light  and  promoting  the  success 
of  their  festival,  and,  after  deducting  the  expenses  incurred 
from  what  they  had  collected  and  retaining  '  Stock  '  for  next 
year,  the  balance  or  '  Increase  ' *  was  brought  to  be  hallowed 
and  given  to  the  Churchwardens  for  Church  Works." 

Candles  for  the  year  made  from  wax  purchased  for  the 
purpose  were  brought  out  to  be  hallowed  at  Candlemas 
(Feb.  ist). 

Many  ancient  records  exist  of  fresh  fire  drawn  from  flint 
used  to  make  Holy  Fire  on  Easter  Eve,  all  lights  being 
first  quenched. 

The  Herse  Lights  spoken  of  as  in  use  in  Purton  Church  were 
probably  those  "  burnt  beside  dead  bodies  in  Church." 

Church  Ales  (Feasts)  are  repeatedly  noticed  in  the 
Sarum  Churchwardens'  accounts  from  long  before  to  long 
after  the  Reformation. 

It  was  the  Church  Ales  which  formerly  provided  the  money 
to  maintain  St.  George  and  his  Priest  at  Purton,  till,  as  the  old 

1  We  here  get  an  explanation  and  meaning  of  the  term  "  Increase  " 
used  by  an  old  witness  when  speaking  of  the  Ale  which  maintained  the 
Image  of  St.  George  and  his  Priest. 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

witness  said,  "  they  were  abolished  and  taken  out  of  the  Church." 
We  can  easily  imagine  how  deeply  the  memory  of  this  event 
(the  story  of  which  is  told  on  page  29)  must  have  sunk 
into  the  minds  of  the  old  men,  and  how  vividly  it  was  recalled 
when  they  gave  their  evidence  fifty  years  after  it  occurred. 
But,  although  so  many  changes  had  meanwhile  taken  place, 
the  custom  of  brewing  Church  Ales  was  continued,  and  were 
still  brewed,  though  now  forjyjifferent  purpose,  in  the  Butheys. 
In  pre-Reformation  days  the  parishioners  had  no  choice  as 
to  attending  these  Church  Ale  feasts  and  contributing  to  the 
money  which  they  provided  for  the  Church.  This  we  see 
from  the  following  extract  taken  from  an  old  Indenture 
(see  Wilts  Arch.  Mag.,  vol.  ii.,  p.  193)  : — 

"  The  Inhabitants  of  ...  shall  brew  foure  ales — at  their 
own  costs  and  charges  .  .  .  and  every  inhabitant  shall  be 
at  the  said  ales  ;  every  husband  and  his  wife  shall  pay  2d  and 
every  cottyer  id.  and  all  come  to  the  said  ales.  .  .  .  The 
profits  and  vantages  coming  of  the  said  ales,  (shall  be  retained). 
Eight  ales  shall  be  brewed  betwixt  the  Feast  of  St.  Andrew 
and  the  Feast  of  St.  John  Baptist  if  the  inhabitant  be 
away  at  one  ale  to  pay  at  ye  toder  for  both  or  els  to  send 
his  money." 

The  money  thus  collected  was  used  to  repair  the  churches, 
to  buy  books  for  the  service  "  cuppes  for  the  celebration  of  the 
Sacrament,  Surplices  for  Sir  John  "  (i.e.  the  Clergyman),  "  etc., 
etc." 

In  the  days  of  Aubrey's1  grandfather,  there  being  no  rate 
for  the  poor  at  Kington  St.  Michael,  Wilts,  "  the  Church  Ale 
at  Whitsuntide  did  their  business."  In  the  Church  of  Thorpe  le 
Soken  in  Essex  is  an  ancient  wooden  screen  bearing  this 
inscription  : — 

"  This  cost  is  the  Bachelors — made  by  Ales.  Jesus  be  their 
mede." 

The  "Word  Ale" '«  is  still  held  in  secret  at  Midgehall  at 
Michaelmas  to  celebrate  the  exemption  of  the  land  from  tithe, 
the  name  being  derived  from  the  Anglo-Saxon  Wordland. 
A  Scot  Ale  got  its  name  from  the  fee  or  Scot  paid  by  the  people. 

1  Aubrey,  the  Wiltshire  historian,  seventeenth  century. 
2  See  Chapter  xvii. 

32 


THE   STORY   OF   PURTON 

A  Clerk's  Ale  was  held  to  enable  the  Clerk  to  collect  his  dues 
more  readily. 

Feasts  connected  with  these  ales  led  in  time  to  riotous 
conduct  and  they  had  to  be  suppressed  by  law,  although  in 
some  places  they  lingered  on  into  the  last  century,  the  Clerk's 
Ale  being  held  at  Chiseldon  as  late  as  1845,  as  related  in  the 
Wilts  Arch.  Magazine,  vol.  ii.,  pp.  190  and  399.  The  word 
"  Butt "  means  a  boundary  between  two  properties,  as  it  does 
in  the  field  called  the  Butts  at  Purton  and  in  another  in 
Lydiard  Millicent.  It  is  more  likely,  however,  that  the  place 
called  the  Butthey,  which  is  not  at  a  boundary,  was  so  named 
because  it  was  the  enclosure  or  "  haie  "  for  "  St.  George's  Butts," 
as  described  by  the  old  witness,  R.  Plover,  in  1597. 


33 


CHAPTER    V 

THE   MASKELYNE    FAMILY 

IN  writing  of  this  family  one  has  to  go  back  a  very  long 
way  in  the  history  of  Purton,  as  no  less  than  eighteen 
Maskelynes  in  succession  have  been  the  respected  owners  of 
broad  acres  in  Purton  and  Lydiard  parishes. 

The  first  was  Robert,  a  freeholder  in  Lydiard  Millicent  in 
1435,  nearly  five  hundred  years  ago. 

His  great-grandson,  William  of  Purton  and  Lydiard,  "  gave 
rent  to  Maintain  a  Light  before  our  Lady"  at  Lydiard  Tregoze. 
Curious  bequests  were  made  in  the  old  wills  of  bygone  days, 
when  values  were  so  immensely  greater  than  at  the  present 
time.  For  instance,  a  single  ewe  was  often  bequeathed. 

As  far  as  we  know,  West  Marsh  was  the  first  Purton  home  of 
the  family,  and  there  George  and  Jane  Maskelyne  lived  in  the 
days  of  Queen  Elizabeth.  The  touching  story  of  Jane  is  told  in 
the  chapter  about  the  Church,  where  allusions  are  made  to  her 
grandfather  Richard  Pulley,  and  to  her  aunt  Isabel  Joy  (nee 
Pulley),  who  lived  at  that  time  at  the  Manor  House,  close  to 
the  Church  and  Great  Tithe  Barn.  The  endless  quarrels  arising 
from  the  length  of  the  conventual  leases  given  to  the  Pulley 
family,  which  overlapped  Lord  Chandos'  purchase  of  the  Manor, 
are  also  described  in  Chapter  iv.  After  the  dissolution  of  the 
Abbey,  the  church  lands x  originally  given  by  pious  benefactors 
for  the  maintenance  of  church  light  were  let  by  the  Church- 
wardens to  George  Maskelyne  of  West  Marsh,  for  the  benefit 
of  the  Church. 

After  the  death  of  George  and  Jane  Maskelyne,  their  son 
Edmund,  who  was  a  member  of  the  Inner  Temple  and  a  Feodary 
of  the  Duchy  of  Lancaster,  added  largely  to  the  land  belonging 
to  the  family  He  was  lord  of  the  Manors  of  Cricklade  and 
Chelworth  and  of  Slaughter  (Co.  Gloucester),  and  M.P.  for 
Cricklade  in  1625.  As  a  lawyer  he  was  greatly  interested  in 

1  See  Chapter  iv.  for  the  list  of  these  fields. 
34 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

the  very  early  enclosure  of  Purton  Common,  agreed  upon  by 
Lord  Chandos  and  his  Purton  neighbours  in  1596-97. 

At  Basset  Down  is  preserved  an  Account  Book  dated  1638, 
kept  by  Edmund's  son,  Neville  Maskelyne,  which  gives  very 
useful  information  about  the  land  and  the  stinting  of  beasts  on 
the  commons. l 

Neville  was  also  a  Member  of  Parliament  for  Cricklade,  and 
it  was  he  who  charged  the  Pry  Pasture  with  £5  a  year  for  the 
poor  of  Purton,  and  los.  to  the  Minister  to  preach  a  sermon 
on  Good  Friday.  He  was  also  one  of  the  original  Trustees 
of  the  Purton  Play  Close,  conveyed  to  them  in  1641. 

His  grandson,  Neville,  who  succeeded  him  in  1679,  served  in 
a  troop  of  Militia  Horse  at  the  time  of  Monmouth's  rebellion, 
his  Commission  from  Lord  Pembroke  being  addressed  "  to  my 
loving  friend  Neville  Maskaline  Esqr.  in  1683." 

This  Neville  and  his  wife  Ann,  daughter  of  the  Vicar  of 
Purton,  Rev.  W.  Bathe,  brought  up  a  family  of  ten  children 
at  West  Marsh,  both  dying  young  in  1706  and  1711  respectively. 

Little  is  known  of  the  childhood  of  these  children,  but  from 
a  letter  written  very  long  afterwards  by  Lady  Clive,  preserved 
at  Basset  Down,  we  learn  that  two  of  them,  her  aunts  Jane 
and  Sarah,  when  old  women  had  great  pleasure  in  recalling 
the  following  story  :  "  Five  sons  and  five  daughters  lived  to 
grow  up  and  sit  at  their  parents'  table.  They  were  all  dressed 
alike,  one  year  in  yellow,  another  in  blue,  etc.,  and  one  year,  as 
they  walked  in  procession  up  the  steps  of  Purton  Church,  an 
old  woman  sitting  on  the  wall  of  the  churchyard,  cried  out  in 
a  treble  voice, '  There  go  Squire  Maskelyne 's  Yellowhammers.' ' 
Soon  after  the  death  of  their  parents,  West  Marsh  was  sold 
to  pay  the  money  settled  on  the  younger  children,  and  the 
eldest  son,  Neville,  rebuilt  and  settled  at  the  Down,  the  younger 
children  having  to  seek  their  fortunes  in  London  or  India. 

The  third  son,  Edmund,  a  clerk  in  the  East  India  Company 
at  Whitehall,  brought  up  three  sons  and  one  daughter  Margaret, 
afterwards  Lady  Clive. 

The  eldest  son,  William,  eventually  inherited  the  Ponds 
Farm,  Purton  Stoke,  from  his  Bathe  great-uncle. 

Captain  Edmund,  the  second  son,  bought  Basset  Down  on 

1  See  Wilts  Arch.  Mag.,  vol.  xl.,  p.  122. 
35 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

leaving  India.  The  third  son,  the  Rev.  Nevil  Maskelyne,  D.D., 
born  1732,  became  Astronomer  Royal  at  Greenwich,  and  having 
outlived  his  two  brothers,  finally  inherited  the  Purton  properties 
and  Basset  Down.  He  was  buried  in  Purton  Churchyard,  near 
his  forefathers.  To  him  we  owe  the  first  conception  of 
and  publication  of  the  Nautical  Almanac,  the  first  volume  of 
which  appeared  in  1767. 

The  great  French  Astronomer  Delambre  said  of  him  : — 

"  He  has  left  the  most  complete  set  of  observations  with 
which  the  world  was  ever  presented,  corrected  in  the  most 
careful  manner,  which  has  served  during  thirty  years  as  the 
basis  of  all  astronomical  observations ;  in  short,  it  may  be  said 
.  .  .  that,  if  by  any  great  revolution  the  works  of  all  other 
astronomers  were  lost,  and  this  collection  preserved,  it  would 
contain  sufficient  materials  to  raise  again  nearly  entire  the 
edifice  of  modern  astronomy." 

He  had  one  daughter,  Margaret,  who  married  in  1819 
Anthony  Storey,  son  of  the  Rev.  William  Storey,  by  Bridget 
Prower,  sister  and  aunt  of  two  successive  Vicars  of  Purton 
(1771-1869),  a  family  well  known  in  Purton  for  a  great  many 
years. 

Mrs.  Maskelyne  was  a  skilful  artist,  and  many  beautiful 
and  interesting  sketches  from  her  pencil  are  now  at  Basset 
Down  House.  Amongst  them  is  an  exquisitely  drawn  map  of 
Purton  district, 1  of  a  very  large  size  and  elaborate  detail. 

The  view  of  old  Purton  House  (facing  p.  107)  is  a 
reproduction  from  her  work  in  1802-10. 

Her  son,  Mr.  Mervyn  Nevil  Storey  Maskelyne,  was  M.P.  for 
Cricklade,  and  a  Liberal  Unionist  in  politics.  He  married 
n  1858  Thereza,  daughter  of  J.  Dillwyn  Llewelyn,  of  Penllergare, 
who  has  collected  much  information  about  Purton,  and  contri- 
buted several  articles  to  the  Wilts  Archcsological  Magazine. 

He  left  three  daughters  : — 

i.  Margaret  Emma,  of  Purton,  who  devotes  her  life  and 
energies  to  social  work  amongst  her  poor  neighbours,  and 
is  specially  interested  in  Poor  Law  reform.  She  is  one  of 
the  members  for  Lydiard  Millicent  of  the  Cricklade  and 
Wootton  Bassett  District  Council. 

1  Copied  from  an  older  map  of  the  date  1744. 
36 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

2.  Mary  Lucy,  married  the  late  Right  Honourable  Hugh 
Oakeley  Arnold-Forster,  M.P.  for  West  Belfast  and  Croydon, 
Secretary  for  the  Admiralty  and  Secretary  of   State  for  War. 
She  has  four  sons,  William,  Mervyn,  John  and  Christopher, 
who  all  served  their  country  in  her  hour  of  need. 

Mrs.  Arnold-Forster  leads  a  busy  life.  She  entirely 
organised  the  arrangements  for  the  Belgian  Refugee  colonies 
in  the  district,  and  is  much  interested  in  all  schemes  for  social 
work. 

3.  Thereza  Charlotte,  married  the  late  Sir  Arthur  Riicker, 
F.R.S.,  Principal  of  the  University  of  London,  and  has  one 
son,  Nevil,  who  fought  in  France  during  the  War. 


37 


CHAPTER    VI 

PURTON   CHURCH 

THE  patron  saint  of  our  beautiful  Church  is  St.  Mary,  but 
curiously  enough  in  the  time  of  Edward  III.  St.  Nicholas 
is  the  name  given. 1  Aubrey;  writing  in  1569,  gives  the  following 
interesting  description  of  it  : 

"  This  is  a  very  faire  Church,  sometime  doubtless  a  place 
of  great  devotion,  as  appeares  by  those  many  niches  in  the 
walles  within  and  without  to  sett  images  in,  etc. 

"  At  the  East  end  of  the  Chancel,  without  are  two  Angells, 
holding  some  kind  of  vegitative  between  them,  which  I  suppose 
to  be  either  a  laurel  or  olive  branch.  All  the  windowes  in  the 
Chancell  are  seminated  all  over  with  estoiles  or  starres  of  six 
points. 

"  On  the  North  side  of  the  Altar,  in  the  wall,  is  an  old  marble 
tomb,  but  the  inscription  with  coates  of  Arms  being  in  brasse, 
on  purpose  to  perpetuate  the  memories  of  the  dead,  gave 
occasion  to  sacriligious  hands  to  teare  them  away.  In  this 
Church  have  been  very  fine  paynted  glasse,  but  now  so  broken 
and  mangled,  that  there  is  little  to  be  recovered.  In  a  crosse 
aile,  on  the  South  side,  in  the  third  column  of  the  East  windowe 
is  this  coate  (Keynes  No.  225).  In  the  south  windowe  in  the 
same  aile,  are  several  Bishops  with  their  mitres  and  crosiers. 
This  Coate  (No.  226,  Paynell)  is  in  the  last  windowe  on  the  south 
side  of  the  Church,  and  this  inscription  has  been  shuffled, 
I  know  not  how,  by  the  glazier,  into  the  first  column  of  the  same 
windowe, '  Johannes  Passus.'  (This  may  have  referred  to  some 
stained  glass  representation  of  the  execution  of  St.  John.) 

"In  this  parish  was  Chancellor  Hyde's  habitation  when  a 
private  gentleman,  before  the  civill  warres."  * 

But  we  have  already  told  something  of  Chancellor  Hyde, 
and  must  now  continue  with  our  account  of  the  Church. 

1  In  a  fine  of  Edward  III.,  1336. 
z  See  Chapter  iii. 

38 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

Mr.  Ponting,  the  Diocesan  Architect,  some  years  ago  compiled  a 
delightful  paper 1  describing  the  Church  in  detail,  and  the  writer 
has  adapted  these  notes  in  the  following  description. 

Our  Church  is  very  symmetrical  in  form,  having  a  nave 
with  north  and  south  aisles,  a  central  tower  below  the  spire, 
with  north  and  south  transepts,  chancel  with  north  sacristy 
(now  the  vestry)  and  South  Chapel,  and  the  later  western  tower 
where  the  bells  hang.  There  was  formerly  a  north  door  in  the 
central  aisle,  now  built  up  ;  it  is  remarkable  for  the  high  level 
at  which  it  is  placed,  the  sill  being  three  feet  above  the  floor 
and  other  doorways,  and  the  jambs  outside  show  that  this  was 
its  original  position,  though  the  lie  of  the  ground  does  not  explain 
the  reason  for  it. 

Twelfth  Century. 

The  earliest  feature  is  the  Transitional  Norman  impost  of  the 
east  respond  of  the  south  nave  arcade,  which  suggests  that  there 
may  have  been  a  central  tower  of  that  date,  though  this,  like 
that  on  the  north  side,  was  removed  and  re-instated  when  the 
present  tower  was  built. 

Early  Thirteenth  Century. 

The  nave  appears  to  have  been  rebuilt  at  this  period,  only 
the  cylindrical  piers  of  the  two  arcades  with  caps  and  bases 
remain,  and  the  bases  are  missing  on  the  eastern  responds 
against  the  central  tower.  Although  the  north  and  south  piers 
are  coeval,  the  capitals  of  the  north  are  richly  carved  with  foliage 
characteristic  of  the  style,  while  those  on  the  south  are  only 
moulded. 

A  little  later  the  present  chancel  was  erected.  All  the  walls 
(except  the  east  wall,  which  was  rebuilt  in  1872)  are  of  this  date, 
though  there  have  been  many  insertions.  An  original  lancet 
window  remains  in  the  north  wall  near  the  central  tower,  but 
it  is  built  up  and  disused  since  the  fifteenth  century  when  the 
sacristy  was  added  outside  it.  The  doorway  which  cuts  into 
the  window  is  also  built  up.  Portions  of  a  similar  window 
farther  eastward  can  be  seen  on  the  south  side  of  the  chancel. 
In  the  south  wall  of  the  sacrarium  the  original  Early  English 
piscina  exists,  large  and  with  two  shelves. 

1  See  Wilts  Arch.  Mag.,  vol.  xxiii.,  p.  229. 
39 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

Fourteenth  Century. 

The  chapel  on  south  side  of  the  chancel  appears  now  to  have 
been  added.  The  three-light  east  window  here  is  a  beautiful 
specimen  of  "  flowing  Decorated."  The  window  and  doorway, 
now  closed,  in  the  south  wall,  are  evidently  later  insertions, 
coeval  with  the  aisles.  A  "  Decorated "  piscina  with  shelf  in 
south  wall  shows  this  to  have  been  a  chantry.  The  central 
tower  and  spire,  north  and  south  transepts,  were  probably 
built  about  the  end  of  the  reign  of  Edward  III.  The  tower 
is  a  singular  combination  of  Decorated  and  Perpendicular  styles, 
the  alternate  sunk  chamfer  and  hollow  of  the  piers  and  the 
groining  of  the  lower  stage  being  earlier  in  feeling  than  the 
upper  stage.  The  spire,  as  its  bold  roll  indicates,  was  evidently 
a  continuation  of  the  lower  and  earlier  work.  The  squinches 
of  the  spire  have  square  pinnacles  with  the  parapet.  The  upper 
stage  of  the  tower  is  open  to  the  spire,  and  has  two  corbels 
low  down  on  the  east  and  west  faces  inside,  and  larger  ones 
higher  up  on  north  and  south  sides,  which  probably  supported 
bells  before  the  western  tower  was  added.  A  door  opens  in  the 
south  transept,  and  lower  on  the  north  and  east  are  built-up 
windows ;  these  would  be  blocked  by  adjacent  roofs,  which 
retain  their  original  pitch.  There  are  two-light  windows 
higher  up  on  four  sides.  A  turret  stair  from  north  transept 
gives  approach  to  this  stage,  and  to  a  second  floor  above  the 
higher  bell  corbels.  A  bit  of  Norman  roll-moulding  is  seen  on 
the  third  step  from  the  floor,  which  suggests  that  this  work 
displaced  some  former  work  of  that  period. 

Transepts. 

A  piscina,  of  which  the  shelf  is  missing,  shows  in  the  south 
transept  that  an  altar  once  stood  here  ;  an  archway  having  led 
through  the  east  wall  to  the  chapel  confirms  this,  for  the  chamfer 
of  the  south  jamb  is  stopped  at  four  feet  from  the  floor  (which 
would  be  about  the  level  of  the  mensa,  including  the  step)  ; 
over  the  position  of  the  altar  is  a  squint  of  a  triple  quatrefoil, 
with  the  splay  of  the  jamb  on  the  east  side  inclined  slightly 
to  the  north,  in  the  direction  of  the  altar  of  the  chapel. 

North   Transept. 
Two  corbel  heads  indicate  an  altar  here  on  the  inside  faces 

40 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

of  the  jambs  of  the  later  and  peculiarly  flat  archway  in  the  east 
wall  opening  into  the  sacristry.  A  beautiful  little  Transitional 
window  peeps  out  clear  of  the  north  aisle. 

Fifteenth  Century. 

Considerable  alterations  soon  after,  if  not  actually  in 
connection,  followed.  The  upper  parts  of  the  walls  and  arches 
of  the  nave  arcades  were  taken  down,  the  Early  English  piers 
and  responds  raised  about  three  feet,  but  the  original  capitals 
retained,  and  new  arches  with  the  mouldings  of  the  time  erected 
on  them.  The  new  stones  were  clumsily  fitted  into  the  old, 
and  the  former  height  of  the  old  piers  is  easy  to  see.  The 
mouldings  of  the  capitals  appear  to  have  been  partly  altered 
to  meet  the  newer  style. 

At  this  time  the  north  and  south  aisles  were  re-built  and 
the  south  porch  erected,  and  here  many  Decorated  features 
linger,  i.e.,  the  tracery  of  the  west  window  of  the  north  aisle, 
the  doorway  and  niche  in  the  south  porch,  and  the  rich  jamb 
and  arch-mouldings  of  all  the  windows,  showing  the  Decorated 
feeling  in  a  marked  degree.  The  south  aisle  has  its  original 
roof  of  span  form  and  high  pitch. 

South  Porch. 

This  is  large  and  rich  in  detail.  A  plain  outer  doorway 
with  two  orders  of  chamfers  with  label  over.  A  moulded  stone 
arch  crosses  the  porch  from  east  to  west,  dividing  it  into  two 
bays,  and  supporting  the  Priest's  Room.  Outside  the  east  wall 
a  buttress  receives  the  thrust  of  the  arch,  the  stair  turret 
strengthens  the  west  side,  and  there  are  diagonal  buttresses 
south-west  and  south-east.  These  and  the  angle  buttresses 
of  the  later  western  tower  are  the  only  ones  in  any  part  of 
the  Church,  which  is  remarkable. 

Niches  (thirteen  in  all). 

There  is  a  beautiful  niche  in  the  east  wall  of  the  south  porch 
constructed  to  hold  a  single  figure,  sides  panelled  the  full 
height,  as  also  the  soffit  and  part  of  the  upper  back.  It  has 
a  square  head,  and  has  been  richly  traceried,  but  much  is 
destroyed.  Every  part  shows  original  colouring  in  red,  yellow 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

and  blue,  as  do  the  spandrels  of  the  arch  spanning  the  porch. 
The  following  niches  are  outside  : — 

Three  on  west  face  of  tower          . .     Perpendicular. 
One  on  north  face  of  tower  . .  ,, 

One  on  south  face  of  tower  . .  „ 

One  in  east  gable  of  south  chapel      Transitional  Decorated 

to  Perpendicular. 
One  in  south  gable  of  south  transept    Early  English 

(replaced   here). 

Inside  : — 

One  in  east  wall  of  porch  (see  above)  Transitional. 
One  in  centre  of  north  aisle 

Two  in  east  wall  of  chancel  . .  Perpendicular. 

One  on  sill  of  east  window  of  chancel  ,, 

One  cut  in  east  respond  of  south 

arcade  of  nave     . .         . .         . .  ,, 

Corbels  (six). 

One  in  east  wall  of  south  transept. 

One  in  east  wall  of  north  transept. 

Two  in  jambs  of  archway  in  east  wall  of  transept. 

Two  in  west  wall  of  north  aisle. 

Priest's  Room. 

A  turret  stair  on  the  north-west  angle  of  the  south 
porch  leads  to  the  priest's  room.  The  original  doorway  remains 
with  ogee  head,  and  fireplace  with  carved  patera  in  the  mould- 
ings of  the  jambs.  The  roof  is  modern,  and  the  pitch  is  lowered 
from  its  old  position.  The  chimney  is  coeval  with  the  staircase, 
the  coping  similarly  embattled.  Observe  the  curious  sink 
stone  just  outside  the  door,  the  spout  carried  through  the  wall 
of  the  turret  to  the  outside,  showing  that  this  room  was 
inhabited.  The  larger  window  is  of  recent  date. 

Western  Tower. 

This  appears  to  have  been  erected  at  about  the  middle  of 
the  fifteenth  century,  and  to  have  been  carried  out  as  a 
distinct  work.  Note  the  fact  that  oyster  shells  are  employed 
in  forming  the  joints ;  this  is  not  the  case  in  any  other  part  of 

42 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

the  Church.  This  does  not  occur  in  any  Wiltshire  Churches 
of  earlier  date  than  the  middle  of  the  fourteenth  century. 
(The  earliest  use  of  these  shells  with  which  Mr.  Ponting  is 
acquainted  is  in  the  Transitional  Church  of  Edington  Monastery, 
dedicated  in  1361.) 

The  Tower  is  a  beautiful  specimen  of  the  best  period  of 
Perpendicular.  It  is  in  four  stages,  with  angle  buttresses 
carried  the  full  height,  and  pinnacles  standing  square  on  them. 
The  pinnacles  are  richly  crocketed  and  pierced,  and  a  pierced 
parapet  of  quatrefoils  is  carried  round  between  them.  All 
the  niches  have  crocketed  canopies,  and  the  four  lower  ones 
have  the  base  for  the  figure  raised  on  a  low  shaft,  whilst  the 
upper  one  is  supported  by  a  carved  angel-corbel. 

The  Chancel. 

About  the  time  of  the  building  of  the  western  tower  the 
windows  in  the  chancel,  two  on  north,  one  on  south,  and  the 
east  window  appear  to  have  been  inserted.  The  niches  here 
are  identical  with  that  over  the  west  window  outside  the 
western  tower.  A  third  niche  rises  from  the  centre  of  the 
window-sill,  covered  with  the  ancient  colouring,  but  this  niche 
is  incomplete. 

The  chancel  has  sedilia  with  flat  arch,  under — and  coeval 
with — the  south  window  of  the  sacrarium,  and  there  are  remains 
of  a  late  altar  tomb  on  the  north. 

Outside  the  east  window  there  is  a  sculptured  panel, 
undoubtedly  of  the  Annunciation,  15^  inches  by  13  inches ; 
a  flat  cusped  canopy,  much  mutilated,  projects  over  the  figures. 
This  panel,  coeval  with  the  window  above  (fifteenth  century), 
possibly  commemorates  a  rededication  of  the  Church,  as 
described  by  Aubrey  earlier  in  this  chapter. 

Glass. 

There  are  fragments  of  fifteenth-century  glass  in  the  windows 
in  the  north  and  south  transepts,  and  in  two  windows  of  the 
north  aisle,  the  latter  having  figures  of  bishops. 

Ancient  Wall  Paintings. 

A  fresco  over  the  doorway  in  the  south  wall  of  the  south 
chapel  is  the  most  remarkable,  apparently  the  raising  of 

43 


THE   STORY    OF    PURTON 

J  aims'  daughter,  whose  figure  is  well  drawn,  and  fairly  well 
preserved,  lying  on  the  ground  with  her  feet  towards  the  east, 
her  hands  at  her  sides,  clothed  in  a  long  garment,  head  and  neck 
exposed  with  flowing  hair.  Another  figure  shows  our  Lord, 
with  a  nun  bus,  with  one  hand  outstretched  and  seven 
attendants  standing  by.  The  other  wall  paintings  are  very 
indistinct. 

Over  the  doorway  in  the  south  aisle  a  panel  containing 
some  inscription  may  be  traced,  enclosed  by  a  border.  A  male 
figure  guards  each  side  ;  the  one  on  the  west  side  holds  a  rod. 

With  the  sun  brightly  shining,  and  with  the  eye  of  faith, 
one  can  sometimes  see  more  in  these  old  frescoes  than  is 
apparent  to  a  cautious  critic,  and  he  would  be  a  bold  man  who 
would  try  to  explain  away  what  undoubtedly  has  been  the 
happy  experience  of  some  devoted  observers  of  these  ancient 
colour  studies. 

One  cannot  learn  a  building  of  this  kind  without  many  years' 
of  patient  love  and  observation,  but  the  knowledge  will  come 
to  those  who  look  for  it,  with  joy  and  much  reward  for  all  the 
time  thus  spent. 

If  you  came  to  Purton  and  asked  one  of  the  inhabitants 
why  there  is  a  tower  as  well  as  a  spire  on  the  Church,  nine 
people  out  of  ten  would  tell  you  that  it  was  because  two  sisters 
built  the  Church  and  could  not  agree,  so  decided  to  have  both. 
This  appears  to  be  the  usual  explanation,  as  the  following  lines 
on  Ormskirk  Church  will  show.  It  seems  that  "  two 
daughters  of  Orme,  a  famous  pirate,  built  a  Church  to  keep 
their  memory  green,  but  disagreed  on  the  design,  so  they  at 
length  decided  to  have  a  tower  ana  also  a  steeple  at  Ormskirk, 
Lancashire." 

"  '  Sister,'  said  one,  '  it 's  my  desire, 

The  Church  should  have  a  tapering  spire, 

To  point  to  realms  where  sin's  forgiven, 

And  lead  men's  thoughts  from  Earth  to  Heaven.' 

"  The  other  said,  '  I  like  a  tower, 

It  speaks  of  strength,  of  might,  of  power, 

An  emblem  of  the  Church's  strength 

To  overcome  the  World  at  length, 

To  show,  that  'gainst  the  Church,  though  frail, 

The  gates  of  Hell  shall  not  prevail.' " 

44 


THE   STORY    OF    PURTON 

These  particulars  of  our  beautiful  peal  of  bells  are 
interesting : — 

No.  i,  the  treble  bell,  is  engraved  "  Jno  Grymes  and 
Wm  Packer  Churchwardens,"  and  its  diameter  is  thirty-seven 
inches. 

No.  2  is  engraved  "Anno  Domini  1628,"  and  measures 
41 1  inches  across. 

No.  3,  the  oldest  bell  of  all,  has  this  inscription,  "  This 
bell  was  made  in  The  yeare  of  The  Lord  1598,"  and  is  44  inches 
across.  Mr.  Doble,  the  bell-hanger  from  Taunton,  told  the 
writer  that  a  bell  with  so  early  a  date  should  be  specially 
noted,  as  previous  to  this  no  bells  bear  anything  but  the  trade 
mark  of  the  maker  upon  them. 

No.  4.  This  bell  was  very  badly  cracked,  and  could  not  be 
rung,  so  in  1916  it  was  taken  down  and  re-cast,  of  which  we  shall 
speak  later.  The  old  inscription  and  decoration  has  been 
exactly  reproduced  on  the  new  cast.  The  words  were  as 
follows  :  "  Edward  Deane,  Humprey  Stanley,  Churchwardens. 
A.R.  1750,"  and  the  diameter  was  45|  inches.  The  bell  was 
found  to  be  rather  thin,  so  to  ensure  no  crack  this  time  some 
more  metal  was  added,  and  the  tone  is  certainly  very  fine. 
It  now  bears  in  addition  the  following  inscription  : — 

"  Recast  M.C.M.XVI. 

A.  M.  D.  G. 

et  in  piam  memoriam 

Mervyn  Stronge  Richardson 

ist  Battalion  Royal  Welch  Fusiliers 

killed  in  action  at  Fricourt  France,  March  igth  1916. 

aged  21  years. 
Dulce  et  decorum  est,  pro 

patria  mori. 

Arthur  Richardson.     Captain. 
Frank  Kempster.     Churchwardens. 
John  Veysey,  Vicar." 

No.  5  is  the  tenor  bell,  whose  well-known  tones  are  rung 
alone  for  the  last  five  minutes  before  service,  and  it  is  also  rung 
as  the  Passing  Bell,  when  a  parishioner  has  been  called  away 
from  this  world  to  the  next.  Its  diameter  measures  50  inches. 

45 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

The  small  call  bell,  which  rings  as  service  is  about  to  begin, 
is  engraved  : — 

"  Come  away,  make  no  delay," 

and  is  dated  1760  ;  the  diameter  is  only  13^  inches. 

With  five  bells  it  is  possible  to  ring  twenty-four  different 
changes,  with  a  larger  number  thousands  of  changes  can  be 
rung.  There  is  much  to  be  learnt  in  the  art  of  bell  ringing, 
and  a  certain  amount  of  risk  for  beginners,  but  it  is  well  worthy 
of  trouble  to  become  an  expert,  and  a  high  honour  to  be  able  to 
join  in  calling  the  parishioners  in  this  way  to  the  House  of  God. 
In  some  parishes  in  bygone  days  on  Sunday  mornings  men  were 
stationed  on  various  stiles  in  the  parish  (when  a  Church  was 
without  bells),  who  called  out  at  intervals :  "  Come  to  Church, 
Mr.  Black ;  come  to  Church,  Mr.  Jones." 

To  Messrs.  Taylor,  of  Loughborough,  was  given  the  re-casting 
of  No.  4  bell.  Some  of  the  money  had  already  been  collected 
in  the  parish ;  but  on  examination  it  was  found  that  a  new  floor 
was  required,  and  an  entirely  fresh  arrangement  for  ringing, 
and  a  good  deal  of  strengthening  to  make  all  safe  and  secure. 
Captain  Richardson,  who  had  just  experienced  the  loss  of  his 
youngest  son  in  France,  offered  to  do  the  bell  casting  at  his 
own  expense  in  his  son's  memory,  and  gave  £100,  the  Hon. 
Mrs.  Hewitt,  Captain  Walter  Stronge,  Miss  Stronge,  Mrs.  Walsh 
and  Miss  Story-Maskelyne  also  subscribing  with  this  object. 
The  Ecclesiastical  Commissioners  added  £10,  and  so  the  work 
was  at  once  put  in  hand,  and  the  result  is  very  satisfactory. 

Captain  M.  S.  Richardson  had  fought  in  France  since 
September,  1914,  and  had  been  once  severely  bruised  by  a 
shell,  and  once  also  wounded  in  1915.  A  shell  burst  on  the 
wire  which  he  was  inspecting  in  front  of  the  firing-line,  killing 
him  and  a  lance-corporal  who  was  with  him.  He  was  buried 
a  few  hours  later  100  yards  behind  the  front  line.  He  had 
been  recommended  for  the  Military  Cross,  and  was  mentioned 
in  Despatches. 

Three  years  previously  a  fund  was  inaugurated  to  purchase 
a  new  organ  for  the  Church,  and  the  Carnegie  Trust,  at  Captain 
Richardson's  request,  kindly  promised  the  sum  of  £250  when 
a  similar  amount  had  been  collected.  Happily  the  money  was 
forthcoming,  so  the  order  has  been  placed  with  Messrs.  Nicholson, 

46 


PURTOX,   WILTS. 

(Old  print.     This  puul  is  now  drained  aivay. 


ST.    MARY'S   CHURCH,   PURTON,   I1EK)RK   RESTORATION. 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

of  Worcester,  and  it  is  hoped  the  instrument  may  be  installed 
by  the  end  of  the  summer.  The  Lord  Bishop  has  promised  to 
come  to  Purton  to  dedicate  the  No.  4  bell,  and  will  arrange 
his  visit  so  that  the  organ  may  then  also  be  consecrated. 

Old  Morgan  Staley  was  the  Clerk  who  said  the  responses 
in  the  days  when  the  three-decker  pulpit  was  still  in  our  Church. 
He  was  famous  for  his  powerful  Amens,  which  he  repeated  in 
a  loud,  sonorous  tone.  On  one  occasion  only  he  failed  in  this 
response,  to  the  amazement  of  the  congregation.  What  had 
happened  was  this.  Staley  had  only  one  eye,  and  wore  glasses. 
Unknown  to  him,  the  glass  over  his  remaining  eye  fell  out  of 
his  spectacles,  and  finding  himself,  as  he  thought,  blind, 
he  for  once  forgot  to  say  his  Amen. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  the  Vicars  of  Purton,  with  the  names 
of  the  Patrons  : — 

Patrons.  Vicars. 

1299.  Abbot  of  Malmesbury 

1312.  ,,         ,,           ,,  Johannus  de  Hauteford. 

1316.  ,,          „           ,,  Johannus  de  Haydoy. 

1349.  »          »           »  Ricardius  de  Bristolia. 

1384.  „          „           „  Robertus  de  Suttleton. 

1389.  „          „            „  Nicholas  Wods. 

1409.  ,,          ,,            .,  Robertus  Denly. 

1409.  ,,          ,,           ,,  Johannus  Burnet. 

1444.  ,,          „           ,,  Henricus  Pyke. 

1478.  Johannus,  Abbas  de  Abingdon.  Johannus  Lyneham. 

I5I5-  Johannus  Kyte,  Capelanus  et  Johannus  Frankelyn. 

Thomas  Hawkins. 

I555-  Edmundus  Brydges  Miles.  Johannus  Hyte. 

1569.  Ditto  et  Ducis  Chandos,  Thomas  Roberts. 

Baro  de  Sudley. 

I573-  Dorathea  Chandos  vidua  et  do.  John  Prendergast. 

1582.  do.     et  Gab'l.  Knowles  Gul  Symons. 

1601.  do.                „  Rob  Price. 

1629.  Johannus  Cooper  Miles.  Rob  Symons. 

1664.  Anthonus  Dominus  Ashley.  Jacobi  Hemerford. 

Baro  de  Wimborne. 

1664.  do.            do.  Gulielemus  Bath. 

1715,  Maurice  Ashley,  Arsinger.  Gul  Alford. 


47 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

Patrons.  Vicars. 

1748.     Anthony,  Earl  of  Shaftesbury.  Richardus  Glass. 

1762.  ,,  „  Nathanial  Sandford. 

1771.     The  Bishop  (by  lapse).  Gregory  Sharpe. 
1771.     Anthony,  Earl  of  Shaftesbury.  John  Prower. 

1828.  ,,  ,,  John  Mervyn  Prower. 

1869.  „  „  Walter  Mitchell. 

1874.  „  „  James  Hewlett. 

1878.  „  „  John  Veysey. 

1917.     Earl  and  Countess  of  Shaftes-  The  present  Vicar, 

bury,  Miss  Warrender,  The        Robert  Birch  Harrison. 

Rev.  Father  Waggett,  and 

Mr.  Glynn. 

The  oak  choir  stalls  and  the  screen  at  the  west  entrance 
were  erected  in  1893,  and  the  old  font  was  rescued  from  its 
banishment  and  re-erected  in  the  Church  for  use  again  in  the 
christening  of  young  Purtonians  at  the  same  date.  It  was 
found  lying  in  the  garden  belonging  to  Mrs.  Walsh's  cottages ; 
it  is  octagonal,  and  of  the  local  stone. 

In  the  Priest's  Chamber  are  kept  a  number  of  ancient  tomes 
relating  to  Articles  of  Apprenticeship,  payment  of  tithes,  and 
also  lists  of  those  parishioners  who  were  in  the  workhouse,  or 
who  were  in  receipt  of  what  in  old  days  came  under  the  name  of 
"  Extraordinaries,"  and  now  would  be  called  out-relief. 

The  first  apprenticeship  document  is  dated  1684,  when 
Charles  II.  was  King  of  England,  and  Robert  Plomer  and  John 
Eatoll  were  overseers  of  Purton  Parish.  Anthony  Stanley, 
son  of  William,  described  as  "  a  poor  child  of  the  said  Parish," 
was  apprenticed  to  one  John  Askweeke,  of  Dauntsey,  to  learn 
the  "  trade  art  and  mystery  of  a  Largeweaver  "  for  seven  years 
"  in  the  best  manner,**  his  master  promising  to  provide  him 
with  "meate,  drinke,  apparrell,  and  washinge,  and  lodginge, 
fitt  for  such  an  apprentice."  At  the  end  of  the  seven  years 
Anthony  was  to  be  fitted  out  with  "  apparrell  of  all  sorts  good 
and  new,  that  is  to  say,  a  good  new  suit  for  Holly-days." 

With  a  girl  the  wording  was  different,  for  we  read  that  in 
1698  Eleanor  Pannell  was  apprenticed  to  John  Warman,  of 
Malmesbury,  and  the  indenture  runs  thus  : — 

"  She   shall   not   haunt,   unless  it  be  about   her  master's 

48 


THE    STORY    OF    PURTON 

business  there  to  be  done,  at  the  dise  [dice],  cards  or  any  other 
unlawful  game  or  games.  She  shall  not  play  the  goods  of  her 
said  masters. 

"  Inordinately  she  shall  not  waste,  nor  them  to  anyone  lend 
without  her  master's  lysons,  marriage  with  any  man  within  the 
said  tenure  she  shall  not  contract,  nor  excuse,  nor  from  her 
said  service,  either  by  day  or  by  night  shall  absent  and  prolong 
herself,  but  as  a  true  and  faithful  servant  ought  .  .  .  behave 
herself  towards  her  Master  and  Dame  as  well  in  words  as  in 
deeds." 

In  return  for  all  this  she  was  to  be  instructed  in  the 
*'  art  craft  or  mystery  of  Cows-lard  making  "  and  to  receive 
food  and  clothing.  The  Justices  who  signed  her  indenture  were 
Edmund  Pleydell  and  Nevil  Maskelyne. 

An  entry  dated  "  May  ye  i8th  1728,"  shows  a  touch  of 
humour.  It  says  : — 

"  Then  received  of  ye  Revd.  Mr.  Glasse  ye  sum  of  sixteen 
pounds  in  full  for  work,  coals,  and  all  other  demands  whatever, 
from  ye  beginning  of  ye  World  to  this  day.  Witness  my  hand. 

"  The  mark  of  X.     Hun  More.     16.  o.  o. 

"  Witnefs  Jno  Clerks." 

In  the  reference  to  Purton  Mill  dated  October  iQth,  1744, 
we  find  a  coincidence,  for  then,  as  now,  a  Lewis  lived  there, 
and  "  Elizth  Lewis,  late  Orchard,  pd  ye  Tythe  of  ye  Mill  for  9 
years  to  Lady  Day  £12.  o.  o." 

Then  "  Betty  Giles "  seems  to  have  been  somewhat  slack 
in  meeting  her  obligations,  for  on  August  2ist,  1744,  it  was 
recorded  that  she  paid  for  tithe, 

"    4  cows  in  ye  common  020 

12  lambs  030 

12  sheep  4  months  i     o 


But  the  sinister  note  follows : "  N.B.  Betty  Giles  to  account  to 
Mr.  Wheeler  and  Miss  Langston  for  2  years  due  Lady  Day  last." 
Among  the  "  Extraordinaries "  are  some  quaint  entries, 
for  we  find  :  "  1757.  Gave  William  Bayley.  His  wife  having 
the  small  pox  55."  Poor  William,  we  wonder  how  he  laid 
it  out,  and  whether  he  too  fell  a  victim. 

49 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

Then  on  July  ist  of  the  same  year  comes : "  Bread  and  Cheese 
at  John  Stanley's  wifes  burial  33.  For  Ale  33.  9|d." 

Needlework  was  not  too  highly  paid,  as  "  For  making  i  shift 
for  Anne  Ayrog  5d.  was  given,"  while  for  "  digging  the  graves 
and  ringing  the  bells  "  35.  6d.  was  the  amount  allowed. 

Moses  Slade  on  July  i8th,  1769,  "  hurt  himself  mowing, 
and  got  2s.  "  and  Mary  Cutts  got  "is.  for  her  young  child 
being  much  burnt." 

The  entries  are  written  in  the  old  style,  and  want  some 
practice  to  decipher,  but  luckily  the  following  was  not  missed : 
"  Gave  Mary  Lewis  by  order  of  vestry  to  buy  ale,  bread  and 
cheese  at  her  lying  in  53." 

It  is  surely  well  to  impress  upon  the  young  the  spirit  of 
reverence,  and  that  the  Church  and  God's  Acre  which  surrounds 
it  are  hallowed  ground.  In  the  old  days  this  was  unhappily 
not  the  custom,  for  we  are  told  that  when  any  parishioner 
wanted  a  good  flat  stone,  he  repaired  to  the  graveyard  to  pick 
out  one  which  might  suit  his  purpose.  It  is  even  said  that 
someone  in  Purton  wanting  a  new  bottom  for  his  oven  upon 
which  to  bake  his  bread  pressed  a  tombstone  into  the  service, 
and  when  the  bread  was  duly  baked,  plainly  upon  the  bottom 
of  the  large  loaf  could  be  read  the  words,  "  Here  lies  the  body 
of  .  .  ." 

The  following  lines  have  been  well  known  in  the  neighbour- 
hood as  a  song  for  many  years  in  illustration  of  the  story 
just  related,  which  no  doubt,  like  other  tales,  has  "  not  lost  in 
the  telling." 

THE  VILLAGE  BAKER. 


i. 

Job  Jenkins  was  a  baker  and 

A  very  honest  elf, 
By  selling  crust  and  crumbs  he  made 

A  tidy  crust  himself, 
But  Job  he  lived  in  better  days 

When  bills  were  freely  paid, 
And  bakers  were  thought  honest  then 

So  bread  was  never  weighed. 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 


n. 

While  walking  through  the  old  Churchyard 

He  saw  some  old  tombstones, 
That  long  had  marked  the  resting-place 

Of  some  poor  neighbour's  bones, 
"These  bodies  long  have  gone  to  dust, 

These  stones  no  use,"  he  said, 
"They  '11  mend  my  oven  and  improve 

My  very  next  batch  of  bread." 

in. 

Tom  Snooks,  the  parish  mason, 

A  very  sporting  blade, 
Who  in  race  horses  and  the  dead 

Had  done  a  tidy  trade, 
To  him  Job  gave  the  order, 

Regardless  of  amount, 
And  charged  it  to  the  Parish 

In  his  next  half-year's  account. 

IV. 

The  job  was  done — the  bread  was  baked — 

Job,  in  his  highest  glee 
Sat  up  to  draw  the  batch  that  he 

Might  great  improvement  see, 
But  soon  as  drawn  he  "  slope  the  pill  "  1 

With  horror  in  his  looks, 
And  rushed  out  like  a  madman 

And  knocked  down  Tommy  Snooks  ! 

v. 

"  Get  up,  you  wretch,  and  come  and  see 

The  blunder  you  have  made, 
Your  tombstone  bottom  sure  will  prove 

A  deathblow  to  my  trade, 
I  know  that  when  you  're  in  the  whim 

At  trifles  you  don't  stick, 
And  by  your  trick  you  've  spoilt  my  batch 

My  cottage,  square  and  brick." 

1  Pill  means  corner;    A.-S.,  slipped  away. 
51 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

VI. 

He  took  him  to  the  bakehouse, 

Where  a  curious  sight  was  seen, 
The  words  on  every  loaf  were  marked 

That  had  on  tombstone  been, 
One  quartern  had  "  in  memory  of  " 

Another  "  here  to  pine," 
The  third  "  departed  from  this  life 

At  the  age  of  ninety  nine." 

VII. 

A  batch  of  rolls  when  they  were  done 

Had  on  the  bottom  plain, 
The  trusting  words  distinctly  marked 

"  In  hopes  to  rise  again," 
A  batch  of  penny  loaves  came  next 

Which  said  "  our  time  is  past, 
Thus  day  by  day,  we  've  pined  away, 

And  come  to  this  at  last." 

VIII. 

Tom  Snooks  now  turned  his  head  away 

His  laughter  to  conceal,  he  said"  he  thought 
It  a  nobby  way  in  making  a  bread  seal." 

Says  Job,  "  This  seal  has  sealed  my  fate 
How  can  I  sell  my  bread  ? 
To  feed  the  living,  when  it  bears, 
The  motto  of  the  dead  ?  " » 

1  From  Mr.  John  Greenham. 


CHAPTER  VII 

AN  ANCIENT  RECORD  OF  PURTON — OLD  FAMILIES — A  MYSTERY — 
THE  "  ANCREN  RIWLE  " — OLD  PURTON  FOLK 

IN  an  ancient  volume *  published  1659-70  we  find  the  following 
account  of  Purton  : — 

"  Three  miles  South  of  Cricklade  is  a  village  called  Purton, 
which  is  very  pleasantly  situated,  and  has  a  handsome  Church, 
with  several  good  buildings,  and  is  well  inhabited.  A  few  years 
ago,  as  some  men  were  digging  to  make  a  grave  in  the  Chancel 
of  the  Church,  they  struck  against  a  stone  coffin  about  three 
feet  below  the  surface  of  the  ground,  and,  having  with  some 
difficulty  raised  it  up,  it  was  found  to  measure  6'  6"  in  length, 
22"  broad,  n"  deep  and  3"  thick,  except  the  head  which  was 
hollowed  with  great  art,  but  the  rest  of  the  coffin  was  rude 
workmanship.  It  was  impossible  to  determine  the  time  when 
this  had  been  first  deposited,  as  neither  figure  nor  inscription 
were  to  be  seen. 

"  In  it  were  found  three  skulls  of  the  common  size,  supposed 
to  have  been  forced  into  it  by  accident,  when  other  graves  had 
been  opened  in  the  place,  and  this  opinion  is  the  more  probable, 
from  there  having  been  a  wooden  lid  to  the  coffin." 

The  old  family  of  Goddard  held  considerable  property  in 
Purton,  Francis,  second  son  of  Edward  Goddard,  of  Clyfie, 
having  held  the  Purton  House  Estate.  He  was  succeeded  by 
Edward,  and  after  him  Anthony  Goddard,  who  married  Mary 
Evans,  and  was  buried  at  Purton  in  1725,  leaving  an  infant  son 
to  succeed  him,  afterwards  Richard  Goddard,  M.D.,  of  Purton 
House,  who  married  a  daughter  of  Sir  J.  Willes.  His  only 
daughter  married  Robert  Wilsonn,  R.N.  Their  eldest  of  four 
daughters  married  Richard  Miles,  who  purchased  the  property 
from  his  mother-in-law.  After  this  Horatio  Nelson  Goddard, 
of  Clyffe  Pypard,  was  the  owner,  and  from  him,  in  1843,  Purton 
House  was  purchased  by  the  well-remembered  Major  Prower. 

1  The  New  British  Traveller. 

53 


THE    STORY    OF    PURTON 

Miss  Maud  Prower,  who  spends  some  months  of  the  summer  at 
Sissells,  is  his  daughter. 

The  Rev.  John  Prower,  M:A.,  had  succeeded  the  Rev. 
Gregory  Sharpe  as  Vicar  in  1771,  and  died  aged  80  years  in 
1827.  He  was  succeeded  by  his  son  John  Mervin  Prower, 
who  died  in  1869,  aged  85,  the  two  Prowers  having  thus  held 
the  living  for  practically  a  century. 

Major  Prower,  of  Purton  House,  was  the  son  of  the  latter, 
and  in  a  newspaper  account  of  his  day  we  find  the  following  : — 

"  He  was  the  first  and  readiest  to  assist  in  the  work  of  the 
restoration  of  the  Church,  and  his  name  was  never  mentioned 
by  either  rich  or  poor  in  the  village,  where  he  was  best  known, 
except  lovingly,  and  where  he  was  the  representative  of  a 
Father  and  Grandfather  who  had  for  nearly  a  Century  occupied 
the  position  of  the  '  Person  of  the  Village.' " 

But  if  Major  Prower  was  much  beloved  in  Purton,  where  to 
this  day  his  name  is  a  household  word,  even  more  so  was  his 
wife,  Mrs.  Prower,  who  by  her  continued  kindness  and  her 
royal  gift  of  remembering  faces  had  well  earned  for  herself 
the  soubriquet  of  "  The  Mother  of  the  Village." 

It  was  a  sad  day  for  her  when  for  various  reasons  it  became 
necessary  to  leave  the  dear  old  home  where  her  children  were 
born,  and  where  she  was  so  much  appreciated  by  all  who  knew 
her,  but  such  was  Fate. 

It  was  in  the  year  1872  that  the  work  in  the  Church  began, 
and  the  total  cost  of  the  restoration  then  undertaken  was 
£2,500.  Of  this  Major  Prower  gave  £1,000,  Lord  Shaftesbury 
gave  £100  and  half  an  acre  of  land,  Mr.  C.  Wykeham-Martin 
£100,  Mrs.  Plummer  £100,  and  Mr.  S.  C.  Sadler  and  other 
parishioners  contributed  liberally. 

An  old  feature  of  the  graveyard  at  Purton  is  the  yew, 
strapped  together  with  its  iron  bands,  and  another  the  stem  of 
the  old  Preaching  Cross,  both  memorials  of  the  days  of  open-air 
worship  in  God's  Acre.  Since  the  loss  of  so  many  of  our  Purton 
heroes  in  the  War,  it  has  been  the  custom  on  festival  days  and 
anniversaries  to  hang  a  laurel  wreath  on  the  old  cross  base 
in  loving  memory  oi  the  fallen,  with  a  card  bearing  their 
names  and  a  few  lines  of  comfort  for  sorrowing  hearts. 

These  ancient  Preaching  Crosses  are  said  to  have  been  often 
in  place  before  the  village  churches  were  built,  hence  the  name, 

54 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

as  about  them  the  congregation  gathered  to  hear  the  preacher, 
and  around  them  were  laid  to  rest  in  God's  Acre  those  who  had 
finished  their  life's  journey.  Often  these  holy  places  were  lent 
for  unworthy  use,  such  as  trading,  Church  Ales,  etc.,  of  which  we 
have  spoken  elsewhere,  and  in  some  places  bones  are  found 
outside  what  is  now  the  boundary.  This  may  account  for  the 
skeletons  turning  up  in  what  was  once  the  Purton  Vicarage 
garden  and  shrubbery. 

In  a  wonderful  structure  such  as  Purton  Church  there  is 
much  to  hold  the  imagination.  One  wonders  who  designed, 
who  built  it  ?  Architects,  workmen,  all  long  forgotten. 
Generation  after  generation  of  worshippers  have  followed  each 
other,  and  each  and  all  gone  in  their  turn.  One  feels  that  the 
prayers  and  praises  from  so  many  lips  must  have  hallowed  and 
beautified  the  very  arches,  pillars  and  stones  as  the  centuries 
slipped  away.  But  in  the  year  1872  a  real  surprise  and 
unfathomable  mystery  was  brought  to  light  in  the  remarkable 
discovery  of  an  adult  female  skeleton  built  up  in  a  cavity  in 
the  chancel  wall. 

In  the  angle  formed  by  the  north  transept  and  the  chancel 
there  was  a  chapel,  now  used  as  a  vestry.  At  some  time  the 
entrance  to  this  chapel  was  closed.  During  the  work  of 
restoration  about  forty  years  ago  the  stonework  on  the  north 
transept  side  was  removed,  and  a  low  oak  screen  substituted. 
On  the  chancel  side  a  plain  doorway  was  discovered.  When 
the  workmen  were  pinning  the  end  of  the  east  wall  of  this 
chapel  into  the  chancel  wall,  they  found  that  four  feet  from 
the  floor  the  wall  was  hollow,  and  on  opening  it  found  the 
skeleton  lying  at  full  length,  the  head  and  shoulders  in  a  cavity 
cut  out  in  the  chancel  wall,  the  remainder  of  the  body  being 
in  the  chapel  wall.  The  cavities  in  both  walls  had  been  specially 
prepared,  and  when  the  body  was  in  position  the  wall  was 
built  up.  Who  was  this  woman,  and  what  was  her  story  ? 
Was  she  a  recluse  ?  Probably  so,  and  the  recess  in  which 
the  head  lay  was  the  outlook  through  which  a  view  of  the 
altar  was  obtained. 

The  Church  at  Edington  in  Wiltshire  had  such  a  reclusorium, 
and  possibly  some  solitary  enthusiast  connected  with  the  Abbey 
of  Malmesbury  elected  to  spend  her  days  in  a  living  tomb. 
In  the  story  of  Thaysis,  told  in  the  "  Golden  Legend,"  we  have  a 

55 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

picture  of  a  recluse  :  "  She  went  to  the  place  which  the  Abbot 
had  assyned  to  her,  and  there  was  a  monasterye  of  vyrgns, 
and  there  he  closed  her  in  a  cell,  and  sealed  the  door  with  led 
And  the  cell  was  lytyll  and  strayte,  and  but  one  lytyll  window 
open,  by  which  was  mynistered  to  her  poor  lyvinge  :  for  the 
Abbot  commanded  that  they  should  gyve  her  a  lytell  brede 
and  water.".  If  this  room  or  chapel  could  tell  its  tale,  no  doubt 
it  would  be  of  great  interest.  Originally  there  were  three 
windows,  one  looking  north,  one  west,  and  one  south,  but  these 
had  been  so  effectively  filled  and  closed  that  nothing  but  the 
dead  blank  wall  met  the  eye.  Over  this  room  or  chapel  there 
was  a  second  chamber  ascended  by  an  incline,  the  whole  being 
covered  by  a  heavy  stone  roof.  The  birds  built  their  nests 
there,  and  the  boys  went  up  to  rob  them,  but  they  never 
ventured  to  enter  the  lower  chamber.  The  tradition  was  that 
no  one  must  go  in  there,  and  it  is  supposed  Canon  Prower 
knew  why,  as  when  about  eighty  years  ago  it  was  suggested  to 
him  it  might  be  used  as  a  robing  room,  he  asked  that  the  subject 
should  not  be  referred  to  again,  that  its  history  bore  some 
reference  to  a  former  vicar,  and  that  a  "  dark  deed  "  had  been 
committed  there.  The  finding  of  the  skeleton  intensified  but 
did  not  explain  the  mystery. 1 

The  following  lines  on  a  nun  immured  in  Purton  Church, 
Wilts,  whose  skeleton  was  discovered  in  1872,  give  a  version  of 
what  may  have  happened  : — 

Take  thy  candle,  hold  the  Cross, 

Thou  must  die  for  mortal  sin, 
Better  bear  the  body's  loss 

Than  the  loss  of  soul  within. 

Lady  Abbess  lead  the  way, 

Sister,  check  thy  rising  tear ; 
Do  not  pity — rather  pray; 

She  is  lost  to  all  but  fear. 

Press  her  body  to  the  wall, 

Leave  unclosed  a  narrow  space, 
That  she  may  hear  our  mercy  call 

From  the  priest  in  holy  place. 

1  From  Mr.  Veysey's  Notes. 
56 


THE   STORY    OF    PURTON 

Scanty  food  may  pass  her  lips, 
Lengthen  thus  her  parting  wail, 

This  may  plead  in  life's  eclipse 
When  no  other  plea  avail. 

Seal  the  tomb,  the  mass  is  said 
Ere  the  well-spread  mortar  dry, 

We  declare  our  daughter  dead 
Though  we  hear  a  muffled  cry. 


Four  hundred  years  !   her  bones  are  white, 

Mute  witness  of  barbaric  creed, 
\Vhere  darkness  brooded,  till  the  night 

Of  Love  Divine  and  fetters  freed. 

C.    J.    L  ANGST  ON. 

But  as  we  have  already  said,  other  places  besides  Purton 
had  these  recluses,  if  such  this  mysterious  woman  was,  who 
of  their  own  free  will  gave  a  vow  to  enter  the  cell  and  never 
more  to  leave  it.  It  was  usual,  but  not  necessary,  for  them  to 
belong  to  one  or  other  of  the  religious  orders. 

The  more  or  less  solitary  life  of  the  anchoress  or  recluse 
had  at  this  time  (A.D.  1373),  as  earlier,  many  followers  in  the 
country  parts  and  large  towns  of  England.  Few  of  the 
women's  "  anchor  holds  "  were  in  the  open  country,  but  many 
churches  of  the  villages  and  towns  had  attached  to  them  a 
timber  or  stone  "  cell,"  a  little  house  of  two  or  three  rooms, 
inhabited  by  a  recluse  who  never  left  it,  and  one  servant  or 
two  for  errands  and  protection. 1 

Occasionally  a  little  group  of  recluses  lived  together,  like 
those  three  young  sisters  of  the  thirteenth  century,  for  whom 
the  "  Ancren  Riwle,"  a  rule  or  counsel  for  Ancres,  was  at  their 
own  request  composed.  The  recluse's  chamber  seems  to  have 
had  generally  three  windows  (as  at  Purton),  one  looking  into 
the  adjacent  church,  so  that  she  could  take  part  in  the  services 
there,  another  communicating  with  one  of  those  rooms  under 
the  keeping  of  her  "  maidens,"  in  which  occasionally  a  guest 
might  be  entertained,  and  a  third,  the  "  parlour "  window, 
opening  to  the  outside,  to  which  all  might  come  who  desired 
to  speak  with  her. 

1  From  the  Introduction  to  Revelations  of  Divine  Love,  by  Julian  of 
Norwich,  A.D.  1373. 

57 


THE    STORY    OF    PURTON 

According  to  the  "  Ancren  Riwle,"  the  covering  screen  for 
this  audience  window  was  a  curtain  of  double  cloth,  black, 
with  a  cross  of  white,  through  which  the  sunshine  would 
penetrate,  sign  of  "  Dayspring  from  on  High."  This  screen 
could,  of  course,  be  drawn  back  when  the  recluse  held  a 
"  parliament "  with  any  who  came  to  her. 

In  Malory's  Morte  d' Arthur  we  read  :  "  So  he  kneeled  at  her 
window,  and  anon  the  recluse  opened  it,  and  asked  Sir  Perceval 
what  he  would.  '  Madam/  said  he,  '  I  am  a  Knight  of  King 
Arthur's  court,  and  my  name  is  Sir  Perceval  de  Galis.'  So 
when  the  recluse  heard  his  name,  she  had  passing  great  joy  of 
him,  for  greatly  she  loved  him  before  all  other  knights  of  the 
world,  and  so  of  right  she  ought  to  do,  for  she  was  his  aunt." 

The  vows  taken  by  recluses  ran  in  this  fashion  :  "  I  offering 
yield  myself  to  the  Divine  Goodness  for  service,  in  the  order 
of  anchorites,  and  I  promise  to  continue  in  the  service  of  God 
after  the  rule  of  that  order  by  Divine  grace,  and  the  counsel  of 
the  Church,  and  to  show  Canonical  obedience  to  my  ghostly 
Fathers." 

The  injunction  given  to  the  recluses  in  the  "  Ancren  Riwle  " 
may  still  appeal  to  us,  though  six  centuries  have  passed  since 
it  was  penned.  It  runs  thus  :  "  At  some  time  in  the  day  or 
night,  think  upon  and  call  to  mind  all  who  are  sick  and  sorrowful, 
who  suffer  affliction  and  poverty,  the  pain  which  prisoners  endure 
who  lie  heavily  fettered  with  iron,  think  especially  of  the 
Christians  who  are  amongst  the  heathen,  some  in  prison,  some 
in  so  great  thraldom  as  is  an  ox  or  an  ass  ;  compassionate  those 
who  are  under  strong  temptations  :  take  thought  of  all  men's 
sorrows,  and  sigh  to  our  Lord  that  He  may  take  care  of  them 
and  have  compassion,  and  look  upon  them  with  a  gracious 
eye,  and  if  you  have  leisure  repeat  the  Psalm  '  I  have  lifted  up 
mine  eyes,'  and  pray,  '  Stretch  forth  oh  Lord  to  Thy  servants 
and  to  Thy  handmaids  the  right  hand  of  Thy  heavenly  aid, 
that  they  may  seek  Thee  with  all  their  heart,  and  obtain  what 
they  worthily  ask  through  Jesus  Christ  our  Lord." 

Then  in  "The  Scale  of  Perfection,"  by  Walter  Hilton,  who 
died  1396,  we  read  of  "  How  an  anchoress  shall  behave  herself 
to  them  that  come  to  her  "  : — 

"  Since  it  is  so,  that  thou  oughtest  not  to  goe  out  of  thy  house 
to  seek  occasion  how  thou  mightest  profit  thy  neighbour  by 

58 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

deeds  of  charity,  because  thou  art  enclosed,  .  .  .  therefore 
whoso  will  speake  with  thee  ...  be  thou  soon  ready  with 
a  good  will  to  aske  what  his  will  is  ...  for  thou  knowest 
not  what  he  is,  nor  why  he  cometh,  nor  what  need  he  hath 
of  thee,  or  thou  of  him,  till  thou  hast  tried.  And  though 
thou  be  at  prayer,  or  at  thy  devotions,  that  thou  thinkest 
loth  to  break  off,  for  that  thou  thinkest  that  thou  oughtest  not 
to  leave  God  for  to  speake  with  anyone,  I  think  not  so  in  this 
case,  for  if  thou  be  wise,  thou  shalt  not  leave  God,  but  thou 
shalt  find  Him  and  have  Him,  and  see  Him  in  thy  neighbour, 
as  well  as  in  prayer,  only  in  another  manner. 

"  If  thou  canst  love  thy  neighbour  well,  to  speak  with  thy 
neighbour  with  discretion  shall  be  no  hindrance  to  thee  .  .  . 
if  he  comes  to  tell  thee  his  disease  [distress]  or  trouble,  and  to 
be  comforted  by  thy  speech  heare  him  gladly,  and  suffer  him 
to  say  what  he  will,  for  ease  of  his  own  heart,  and  when  he  hath 
done,  comfort  him,  if  thou  canst,  gladly,  gently,  and  charitably, 
and  soon  break  off — and  then  after  that,  if  he  will  fall  into  idle 
tales,  or  vanities  of  the  World,  or  of  other  men's  actions, 
answer  him  but  little,  and  feed  not  his  speech  and  he  will  soon 
be  weary,  and  quickly  take  his  leave." l 


Everyone  knew  old  Mrs.  Cook  and  her  husband,  who  for 
so  many  years  lived  in  the  Lodge  at  Purton  House.  The 
likeness  opposite  shows  what  a  fine  old  woman  she  was, 
patience,  goodness  and  many  other  virtues  having  stamped 
themselves  in  the  lines  which  Time  had  written  so  freely  on 
her  face.  Old  Cook  Was  very  deaf,  and  speaking  of  this  in- 
firmity, she  once  said,  "  It  is  hard  on  John,  why  I  has  to  kick 
'un  to  wake  'un."  On  one  great  occasion  in  their  uneventful 
lives  they  were  taken  up  to  London  by  Major  Prower.  Old 
Cook  was  adorned  in  a  brand  new  flowered  waistcoat.  What 
puzzled  Mrs.  Cook  was  the  endless  flow  of  people  in  the  streets, 
and  she  remarked,  "  Hadn't  we  better  stand  in  a  doorway  till 
the  crowd  is  past  ?  "  Doubtless  her  one  day  in  London  was 
never  forgotten,  and  what  she  did  and  saw  there  was  an  oft-told 
tale ;  but  still  she  would  have  maintained  against  all  comers 
that  "  London  was  all  very  well,  but  give  /  Purton  for  pleasure." 

1  MSS.  in  British  Museum,  edited  by  Grace  Warrack.. 
59 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

like  the  historic  lady  from  Peebles.  She  had  a  great  grief  in 
the  sudden  death  of  her  daughter  in  1911,  and  the  old  couple 
then  left  Purton,  ana  lived  with  a  married  daughter  in 
Swindon  till  both  passed  away  at  a  ripe  old  age. 

These  old  Purton  folk  have  seen  wonderful  changes  since 
their  young  days,  when  no  G.W.R.  Works  in  Swindon 
existed,  and  Purton  was  a  sleepy  hamlet  much  as  it  had  been 
for  five  hundred  years  and  more.  It  is  a  thousand  pities  that 
when  houses  were  wanted  for  the  Great  Western  employes 
the  style  of  the  village  was  not  considered,  and  that  the 
uncompromising  red  brick  was  substituted  for  the  more  dignified 
stone.  What  good  advice  he  gave  who  once  said,  "  Have 
nothing  inside  or  outside  your  house  unless  it  is  useful  or 
beautiful."  If  this  were  done,  how  much  that  to-day  offends 
the  eye  and  taste  would  not  be  seen.  No  horrible  little  terra- 
cotta faces  would  leer  at  us  above  doorways  and  windows,  or 
eruptions  of  coloured  tiles  disfigure  the  walls.  Inside  a  good 
print  or  two  of  well-known  fine  pictures  would  sweep  away 
glaring  atrocities  in  colours  quite  untrue  to  nature,  and  the 
plush  bracket  and  tawdry  mirror  would  give  place  to  the  fine 
old  brass  candlesticks,  the  grandfather's  clock,  and  the  copper 
warming-pan  gleaming  in  the  firelight,  which  in  the  old 
days  gave  such  charm  and  beauty  to  a  simple  home.  Yes, 
"  useful  or  beautiful "  is  a  very  good  rale  and  well  worth 
remembering,  though  of  course  good  taste  has  to  be  cultivated 
like  other  virtues.  Still,  there  is  no  use  in  being  like  Mrs. 
Dombey,  "  who  died  for  want  of  making  an  effort,"  and  at  least 
we  can  all  do  our  best,  according  to  the  light  that  is  in  us. 

A  line  in  the  Purton  record  of  past  years  may  well  be  written 
on  Henry  Telling,  of  Pavenhill,  who  died  in  1916,  aged  87  years. 
For  a  quarter  of  a  century  he  had  dug  the  graves,  and  was 
much  esteemed  by  the  Prower  family  and  other  neighbours 
in  his  native  village. 

The  Commissioners  of  Edward  VI.  found  a  very  small 
quantity  of  plate  when  they  visited  Purton. 

There  is  a  chalice  weighing  4  oz.  and  i|  oz.  "  for  the  King." 
The  stem,  base  and  cover  are  certainly  nearly  one  hundred 
years  older  than  the  bowl,  and  in  all  probability  belong  to  an 
Elizabethan  chalice  of  circa  1575,  the  bowl  of  which  was  altered 
in  1666.  On  the  rim  round  the  paten  cover  is  inscribed, 

60 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

"  John  Gillum  and  William  Shermur,  Churchwardens  of  Purton 
1666." 

A  paten  resting  on  a  foot,  circa  1708,  has  inscribed  underneath, 
"  The  gift  of  Fanny  Righy,  1820."  She  was  the  eldest  daughter 
of  Robert  Prbwer,  M.D.,  and  married  the  Rev.  Hew  Righy, 
Vicar  of  Hockley,  dying  in  1827.  A  modern  service,  chalice, 
paten  and  cruet-shaped  flagon,  inscribed,  "  Presented  by 
Cornwallis  and  Anne  Wykeham-Martin,  a  thankoffering  for 
many  mercies  1872,"  completes  the  collection. 

Old  Mrs.  Jefferies  told  the  writer  recently  a  story  of  Mr. 
Wykeham-Martin 's  kind  consideration  for  his  poor  neighbours. 
Her  old  mother  was  wheeling  a  heavy  barrow  to  the  station, 
and  seeing  that  she  seemed  tired,  Mr.  Wykeham-Martin  took 
the  barrow  from  her  and  wheeled  it  down  himself,  calling  to 
mind  what  Shakespeare  wrote  so  long  ago  :  "  How  far  this  little 
candle  throws  its  beams,  so  shines  a  good  deed  in  a  naughty 
world." 

Mrs.  Wykeham-Martin  was  a  lady  of  much  charity,  and 
during  her  long  and  trying  illness  she  diligently  made  warm 
garments  for  the  poor. 

The  Cottage  Hospital  was  built  at  the  expense  of  this 
family  for  the  village,  but  it  is  no  longer  in  use  as  such,  for 
the  patients  are  now  sent  to  the  more  commodious  Victoria 
Hospital  in  Swindon. 


61 


CHAPTER   VIII 

OLD   TITHES    AND    PORTIONS — CRICKET — MILLS — CHARITIES 

THE  tenure  of  the  Abbey  of  Malmesbury  of  these  lands  (of 
Purton,  etc.)  extended  over  a  period  of  more  than  eight  centuries, 
but  of  the  Saxon  times  we  know  nothing.  During  the  reign  of 
Edward  I.  the  rent  roll  was  taken  in  full.  The  Abbot  received 
a  large  portion  from  both  sources  (spiritually  and  temporally), 
the  remainder  of  the  spiritualities  were  divided  between  the 
Chamberlain  and  the  Pittancer,  the  Prior  and  the  Cook  sharing 
the  smaUer  part  of  the  temporalities.  The  division  between 
the  two  last  seems  to  have  been  somewhat  curious,  for  the  Cook 
received  ten  times  as  much  as  the  Prior,  although  that  official 
ranked  next  in  authority  to  the  Abbot,  and  held  the  first  place 
in  Choir,  Chapter  and  Refectory. 

Then  there  were  also  other  dues  to  be  paid  by  the  manor 
for  Peter's  Pence  and  Pannage,  for  Church  Scot  in  fowls  and  corn, 
dues  too  of  fowls  at  Christmas,  and  eggs  at  Easter.  Most  of 
the  holders  oi  land  were  tenants  under  the  Abbey.  Thus  in  the 
"  Nomina  Villarum  "  the  Abbot  of  Malmesbury  is  returned  as 
the  only  landowner  in  Purton  against  whom  a  writ  of  military 
summons  can  be  issued. 

There  is  a  grant  of  tithes  made,  we  read,  by  Thomas,  son  of 
Adam  de  Peritone,  in  the  early  part  of  the  thirteenth  century. 
The  acquisition  of  the  Rectory  and  the  pension  granted  to 
the  retiring  priest  are  interesting,  in  charters  dated  1276-77. 
In  the  case  of  the  Rectory,  an  addition  at  the  end  of  the  record 
furnishes  us  with  the  price  paid  for  it,  and  as  this  exceeds 
only  by  10  marks  its  (given)  annual  value,  it  went  cheap. 
The  Rector's  pension  was  £20,  and  later  commuted  to  200  marks. 

In  1530  (two  hundred  and  fifty  years  later  the  Rectory 
was  valued  at  £59  los.  od.,  the  earlier  having  been  £13  8s.  5d., 
not  including  payment  in  corn,  fowl  and  eggs)  forty-nine 
tenants  were  on  the  rent  roll. l 

1  Wilts  Notes  and  Queries. 
62 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

At  the  Domesday  Survey  the  Abbey  possessed  only  one  mill 
in  Purton,  but  during  the  abbacy  of  William  of  Colerne 
a  second  mill  with  a  pond  was  added,  and  in  the  rent  roll  two 
mills  are  quoted.  Abbot  William  claims  our  notice  as  an  early 
restorer  of  Purton  Church,  round  which  he  erected  a  strong  wall. 
Another  work  of  his  in  Purton  was  a  stone-roofed  grange — 
probably  Mrs.  Walsh's  great  Tithe  Barn.  He  also  caused  new 
gardens  to  be  laid  out.  In  the  paragraph  that  alludes  to 
Abbot  William's  work  at  Purton  one  new  garden  (unum  novum 
gardinum)  and  a  lower  garden  were  mentioned,  and  in  that 
lower  garden  two  fishponds  were  constructed  by  his  order,  now 
over  six  hundred  years  ago,  doubtless  those  which  still  lie  at  the 
foot  of  the  vicarage  garden.  The  late  Vicar  told  the  writer  he 
had  seen  a  deed  at  Malmesbury  granting  (in  thirteenth  century) 
the  orchard  to  "  the  poor  vicar  of  Purton." 


The  Workmen's  Institute. 

This  was  the  gift  in  1879  of  Mr.  James  Sadler,  and  was  built 
on  the  site  of  an  old  and  dilapidated  building,  originally  built 
in  1770  for  a  school.  The  architect  was  Mr.  Orlando  Baker,  of 
New  Swindon,  and  the  builder  Mr.  James  Grey,  of  Purton, 
and  the  cost  was  £2,000.  At  the  foundation  ceremony,  after 
a  prayer  had  been  said  by  the  Vicar,  Mrs.  Fisher  laid  the 
foundation  stone.  Mr.  MacKnight  gave  an  address,  saying 
"  he  remembered  when  the  villagers  came  to  Church  in  their 
clean  white  smock-frocks,  but  broad-cloth  was  now  worn." 
Underneath  the  foundation  stone  was  placed  a  bottle  containing 
The  North  Wilts  Herald,  The  Daily  Telegraph,  a  few  coins  of 
the  realm,  and  a  parchment  with  particulars  of  the  donor. 
The  building  was  opened  in  1880  by  the  Earl  of  Shaftesbury. 

Purton  Cricket  Club  is  of  far  fame,  and  the  site  is  one  of 
great  beauty  and  extensive  views.  It  was  generously  presented 
to  the  Club  by  Mr.  J.  H.  Sadler  in  1911.  Previous  to  this  it 
was  part  of  the  Purton  House  Estate,  but  cricket  matches  have 
been  played  there  for  many  a  day,  the  first  recorded  match  being 
one  between  Lansdown  C.C.  and  Purton  C.C.,  which  took  place  in 
the  year  1834.  John  Smith,  of  Ramsbury  Manor,  once  walked 
the  eighteen  miles  to  play,  breakfasting  en  route  at  Swindon. 

63 


THE    STORY    OF    PURTON 

He  scored  fifty  in  his  first  innings,  and  a  friend  bet  him  he  would 
not  repeat  the  feat  in  his  second.  He  had  forty-eight,  and  he  hit  a 
two,  but  his  partner  ran  one  short,  making  him  forty-nine,  and 
next  ball  he  was  out,  so  he  lost  his  bet,  but  walked  back 
undefeated  to  Ramsbury.  The  Pavilion  was  erected  in  1854.  In 
the  year  1869  the  old  Club  became  defunct,  for  an  Archery  Club 
flourished  about  the  seventies  for  ten  years  or  more.  Mr.  Clement 
Scott,  the  author  and  dramatist,  wrote  in  1895 :  "We  were  taught 
to  believe  at  Marlborough  that  the  Purton  Club  was  a  kind 
of  divine  Cricket  Olympia." 

Any  reference  to  cricket  at  Purton  would  be  incomplete 
without  the  name  of  Mr.  Hastings,  who  did  so  much  for  the  Club, 
taking  both  time  and  trouble  to  further  its  interests.  Our 
best  batting  average  is  held  at  present  by  Mr.  Stephen  Brown, 
and  the  best  bowling  average  by  Mr.  Haskins. 

Purton  Allotments. 

These  were  obtained  at  the  suggestion  of  Mr.  Mac  Knight 
from  the  great  and  good  Lord  Shaftesbury  in  the  year  1863, 
and  since  then  have  been  let  to  the  surrounding  inhabitants, 
providing  them  with  work  in  their  spare  time,  and  producing 
vegetables  for  their  families. 

Near  the  allotments,  at  the  Fox,  is  a  quarry,  on  Mr.  Sadler's 
property,  and  from  time  to  time  interesting  discoveries  in 
the  shape  of  iron  knives,  swords  and  spears  have  come  to  light 
there.  The  greatest  find,  however,  was  in  the  autumn  of 
1911,  when  several  skeletons  and  an  ancient  sword  were 
unearthed.  These  are  now  carefully  treasured  in  the  County 
Museum  at  Devizes. 

The  antiquary,  Mr.  B.  G.  Cunnington,  writing  in  1912 
of  the  finds  at  the  Quarry  said  :  "  There  is  little  doubt  that  this 
is  a  Saxon  cemetery,  as  both  the  sword  found  last  week  and 
the  spear-head  found  to-day  are  without  doubt  Saxon." 

A  blue  glass  bead  was  also  found,  and  Mr.  Cunnington 
refers  to  the  above  discoveries  as  "  these  most  interesting  relics 
of  Saxondom  in  Wiltshire." 

Schools. 

These  were  built  in  1860  by  the  exertions  of  the  Rev.  Digby 
Octavius  Cotes,  M.A.,  of  Balliol  College,  Oxon.,  his  wife, 

64 


THE    STORY    OF    PURTON 

Mrs.  Cotes,  and  her  two  sisters,  the  Misses  Bathe,  contributing 
largely  to  the  cost.  Mrs.  Cotes  also,  at  her  own  expense, 
moved  the  Chapel  of  Ease  at  Braydon  from  its  former  site  to 
where  it  now  stands.  The  family  of  Bathe  has  for  many 
centuries  been  connected  with  Purton.  William  Bathe  in  the 
year  1664  was  Vicar,  and  owned  the  Ponds  Farm,  then  called 
"  the  Mansion  House  at  Stoake."  A  letter  beginning  "  Good  Mr. 
Bathe  "  and  signed  "  your  very  affectionate  servant  Clarendon  " 
shows  he  was  on  the  best  of  terms  with  that  most  illustrious 
of  Purton  families,  the  Hydes.  The  "  Mansion  House  at 
Stoake,"  as  it  stands  to-day  with  the  moat  which  still  surrounds 
it,  was  once  the  scene  of  a  tragedy,  as  a  little  Bathe  boy  was 
drowned  in  it. 

The  pretty  picture  of  Purton  Church  (see  p.  47)  was  picked 
up  at  an  old  bookseller's,  and  sent  to  Wilts  Notes  and  Queries, 
and  was  identified  as  belonging  to  No.  XXXVI.  Marshall's 
select  views  in  Great  Britain — published  1827  (Dec.)  by 
W.  Marshall  I.  Holborn  Bars.  London.  Printed  by  W.  T.  Ruffy 
29.  Budge  Row.  price  6d. 

Mills. 

There  are  two  mills,  and  some  controversy  has  arisen 
as  to  which  is  the  original  Purton  Mill.  Both  are  on  the  banks 
of  a  tiny  tributary  of  the  Thames  which  rises  at  Restrop, 
passes  the  south  wall  of  the  churchyard,  flows  through  the 
grounds  of  Purton  House,  passes  the  old  Milk  House,  and  so  to 
Purton  Mill,  now  in  the  occupation  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Lewis. 
Both  the  Purton  Mill  and  at  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Greenham's  farm 
the  Ridgeway  Mill,  about  a  mile  to  the  east,  are  mentioned  as 
belonging  to  Malmesbury  Abbey.  Ridgeway  as  it  now  stands 
is  certainly  not  older  than  the  time  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  and 
Purton  Mill  has  been  entirely  rebuilt  during  the  last  half  century. 
But  when  we  take  designs  and  situations  of  the  Mills  into 
consideration  we  may  gather  some  information.  We  conclude 
that  whatever  collection  of  dwellings  there  may  have  been  in 
old  days  would  be  near  the  Church,  market  place,  or  some 
social  centre.  Now  a  mill  to  be  useful  should  be  convenient 
for  those  who  wish  to  use  it,  and  it  seems  probable  that  on 
building  a  second  mill  it  should  be  nearer  or  close  to  a  good  road, 
in  hopes  of  obtaining  some  advantage  over  the  older  mill, 
and  so  procuring  the  desired  custom.  At  Ridgeway  the  mill 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

pond  is  small,  the  stone  escarpment  very  limited,  while  at 
Purton  Mill  the  pond  is  large,  well  made  and  extensively 
edged  with  stone,  and  speaks  of  the  handiwork  of  an  able  and 
wealthy  person,  as  Abbot  William  of  Colerne  is  known  to  have 
been.  In  the  Malmesbury  register  it  is  spoken  of  as  a  fishpond, 
and  so  evidently  of  sufficient  importance.  Thus  we  may  assume 
that  the  Wiltshire  farmer  who  used  the  Ridgeway  Mill  may 
have  carried  his  corn  to  the  identical  spot  to  which  his  sturdy 
ancestor  the  Saxon  ceoil  did  more  than  a  thousand  years  ago. 
Purton  Mill  is  recorded  in  Domesday  Book,  and  was  then  valued 
at  53.  Millers  were  an  ancient,  jovial  and  well-to-do  race,  and 
their  calling  went  from  father  to  son.  In  1241  we  find  William, 
son  of  Richard  (presumably  both  millers),  and  John,  Abbot 
of  Malmesbur}',  mentioned  in  a  "  concord  "  wherein  Purton  Mill 
and  about  20  acres  of  land  were  granted  to  William  and  his 
heirs  for  ever  for  the  rent  of  133.  4|d.  per  annum. x  A 
document  dated  1306  speaking  of  Purton  Mill  is  extant.  The 
Ridgeway  Mill  ultimately  passed  into  the  possession  of 
Pembroke  College,  Oxon.  * 

Parish  Charities. 

Nevil  Maskelyne,  who  died  about  1679,  charged  the  Pry 
Pasture  with  a  yearly  payment  of  £5  to  the  poor  of  Purton, 
and  with  a  further  payment  of  los.  to  a  minister  for  preaching 
a  sermon  on  Good  Friday. 

deed's  Charity. 

Frances  Gleed  gave  £200,  the  rents  and  profits  to  the  poor 
housekeepers  of  the  parish  not  receiving  weekly  alms,  IDS. 
once  a  year.  The  poor  relations  of  the  benefactor  living  in  the 
parish  should  be  preferred  before  others,  whether  they  receive 
weekly  alms  or  not.  The  £200  was  invested  in  land  situate 
at  the  Cross  Lanes,  on  the  north  side  of  Hawk's  Moor  Lane, 
two  fields  of  pasture  containing  about  13  acres,  called  Poor's 
Land.  The  Wilts  and  Berks  Canal  paid  £10  down  on  taking 
possession  of  a  small  portion  of  Gleed's  Charity  in  1816. 

1  Reg.  Malm.,  vol.  ii.,  p.  320. 
*  Wills  Notes  and  Queries. 


66 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

Hiscock's  Leaze. 

In  an  Act  of  Parliament  passed  in  1795  we  read  that  "  in  the 
year  1778  it  had  been  agreed  at  a  lawful  vestry  that  the  rents 
and  profits  of  the  late  Hiscock's  Leaze  in  the  Common  should 
be  given  to  the  poor  for  ever,  every  year  on  Good  Friday.'* 
In  Parliamentary  returns  dated  1786  the  following  charity 
is  mentioned  :  "  Epaphroditus  New,  1640,  gave  to  the  poor 
£30  in  money,  producing  £i  75.  od.  then  land."  The  parish  knew 
nothing  about  this  charity,  but  as  Hiscock's  Leaze  is  not  men- 
tioned, it  might  have  been  purchased  with  the  £30  given  by  New." 

Miriam  Stevens  left  in  1723,  at  her  daughter's  death, 
£17  os.  od,  "  without  deduction  for  ever,"  £16  os.  od.  to  maintain 
a  schoolmaster  to  teach  twenty  poor  children  "  reading,  writing 
and  accounts,"  and  los.  for  a  sermon  to  be  preached  on  Easter 
Monday  by  the  Vicar  of  Purton,  the  Rectors  of  Lydiard  Millicent 
and  Lydiard  Tregoze,  yearly  in  their  turns,  and  los.  for  a  dinner 
for  the  preacher,  and  the  remaining  los.  to  the  schoolmaster, 
for  keeping  a  book  with  said  sums,  and  the  names  of  the  children. 
The  Vicar  and  two  Rectors  to  be  trustees  for  ever,  to  render  the 
charity  as  beneficial  as  it  could  be.  The  money  rolled  up  for 
five  years,  when  the  Trustees  obtained  from  Lord  Shaftesbury 
a  lease  of  a  house  and  garden  (on  the  site  of  the  present  Institute) 
for  three  lives  for  £25.  They  built  a  schoolroom  adjoining  with 
the  rent  charge  saved  and  some  subscriptions.  It  all  cost 
£120.  Two  of  the  lives  above  mentioned  were  Thomas  Plummer 
and  Richard  Garlick  Bathe.  The  Vicar  chose  the  twenty 
children  who  were  educated  free,  and  there  were  always 
numerous  applications ;  the  schoolmaster  had  in  addition 
about  fifteen  paying  scholars. 

Poor's  Platt  Charity. 

In  1834  it  was  stated  in  a  Parliamentary  report  that  this 
twenty-five  acres  of  land  was  granted  by  King  Charles  by  letters 
patent  to  the  poor  of  Purton  Stoke,  in  lieu  of  their  right  of 
feeding  their  cattle  and  picking  wood  in  Braydon  Forest, 
at  the  time  of  the  disafforestation.  However,  this  was  found 
to  be  inaccurate,  as  they  were  given  under  a  decree  of  the  Court 
of  Exchequer  dated  November  igth  in  the  sixth  year  of  King 
Charles'  reign.  Another  mistake  occurred,  in  that  the  Charity 
came  to  be  applied  to  the  whole  of  Purton,  instead  of  Purton 

67 


THE   STORY   OF   PURTON 

Stoke  alone,  so  after  this  the  words  "  Poor  of  the  hamlet  of 
Purton  Stoke  "  were  to  be  included  in  the  new  decree  drawn 
up  in  the  reign  of  George  II.  It  had  also  become  habitual 
to  restrict  the  charity  to  about  twenty-three  inhabitants 
whose  houses  were  there  at  the  date  of  this  decree,  and  these 
people  had  the  nominating  of  the  Trustees,  and  though  new 
houses  were  built,  they  refused  to  allow  them  to  participate 
in  the  charity.  The  Parish  Council,  soon  after  its  establishment, 
found  out  how  matters  stood,  and  discovered  that  some  of  the 
recipients  were  in  good  circumstances  and  not  subjects  suitable 
for  relief  at  all. 

Trustees  were  therefore  appointed,  and  the  letting  of  the 
land  takes  place  each  year  on  the  first  Thursday  after  Old 
Christmas  (January  6th).  It  is  carried  out  by  the  curious 
ceremony  of  "  Chalking  the  Bellows  !  " 

The  bellows  are  taken  round  by  the  landlord  of  "  The  Bell  " 
at  Purton  Stoke,  accompanied  by  one  of  the  tenants  of  the 
preceding  year,  who  is  given  the  option  of  making  the  first  bid. 
This  is  done  by  chalking  the  amount  on  the  bellows.  When 
the  bellows  have  been  passed  round  the  room  three  times 
without  an  advance,  on  arriving  the  third  time  at  the  last 
bidder  he  becomes  the  tenant  for  the  ensuing  year. 

This  custom  has  been  observed  for  at  least  a  hundred  years, 
probably  for  very  much  longer.  The  rents  received  in  1900  were 
£13  and  £15.  There  are  no  buildings,  only  pasture.  The  con- 
ditions are  that  the  grass  may  not  be  mown,  but  twice  a  year 
the  thistles  must  be  cut.  The  tenant  undertakes  to  keep 
"  mounds  and  fences "  in  repair,  to  pay  all  rates  and  taxes, 
except  the  Thames  valley  drainage  rate.  He  has  to  find  a 
surety  for  £20.  No  manure  may  be  removed  from  the  land. 
£2  2s.  od.  is  annually  deducted  for  refreshments  for  the  Trustees. 
The  poor  recipients  receive  sums  from  IDS.  upwards,  according 
to  their  circumstances. 

Another  curious  way  of  auctioning  land  is  by  cutting 
a  candle  one  inch  in  length  and  lighting  it,  and  as  soon  as  this 
is  done  the  bidding  begins.  He  whose  bid  is  given  as  the 
flame  flickers  out  is  the  winner. 

These  old  customs  are  interesting,  and  one  would  like 
to  know  whether  they  are  used  in  other  districts  beyond 
Wiltshire  and  Gloucestershire. 

68 


•Ok 


1'URTON   HOUSE,   WILTSHIRE,    1917,    FROM   "THE   GREEN   WALK." 


THE    GREAT    CEDAR,    PURTON    HOUSE,   WILTSHIRE. 


CHAPTER  IX 

PURTON  HOUSE — THE  MANOR  HOUSE 

THE  history  of  Purton  House  seems  to  be  closely  connected 
with  the  old  mill  which  stands  about  half  a  mile  below,  and 
which  in  an  Inq.  P.M.  of  Henry  Maskelyne  16  Chas.  I.  is  called 
Chester  Mill,  and  elsewhere  Chester's  Mill,  probably  from  the 
name  of  the  miller  then  in  possession.  At  this  time  Purton 
House  appears  to  have  gone  by  the  name  of  Chamberlaynes, 
and  the  property  passed  into  the  possession  of  Francis  Goddard 
under  this  title  in  the  seventeenth  century. 

The  Brydges  family  had  been  the  owners  when  it  passed 
out  of  the  hands  of  Malmesbury  Abbey  at  the  Dissolution  of 
the  Monasteries,  represented  by  Lord  Chandos,  of  Sudeley.  * 

In  the  Wilts  Arch.  Mag.,  vol.  xxx.,  we  find  an  article, 
"  Purton,  A  Case  in  the  Star-Chamber,"  and  in  it  we  read  that 
the  tithes  of  the  Manor  of  Purton  pertained  to  the  office  of  the 
Chamberlain  of  Malmesbury  Abbey.  From  this  we  may  assume 
some  connection  between  this  ancient  house  and  the  tithes 
collected  for  the  Chamberlain  of  Malmesbury  Abbey.  Possibly 
the  tithes  were  brought  there  to  the  Chamberlain,  and  hence  the 
name. 

Anyhow,  the  site  is  one  of  great  antiquity,  and  many  a 
century  has  passed  since  the  first  stone  was  placed  in  position ; 
it  must  be  at  least  two  hundred  years  since  the  wonderful 
elms  in  the  park  and  pleasure  grounds  were  planted. 

The  name  of  Chamberlaynes  appears  to  have  been  given  up 
when  the  Goddards  took  possession  about  the  middle  of  the 
seventeenth  century,  and  Purton  House  has  been  the  name 
certainly  for  the  last  two  hundred  years. 

The  earliest  deed  extant  is  dated  1698,  and  an  interesting 
map,  drawn  a  few  years  later,  with  its  "  kitching  and  little 
gardens,"  coppices  and  fishponds,  shows  the  house  to  have  been 
similar  in  shape  to  the  charming  pencil  sketch  drawn  by 

1  John  Aubrey,  see  Chapter  iv. 
69 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

Mrs.  Story-Maskelyne  about  a  hundred  years  afterwards.  These 
fishponds  were  three  in  number,  and  bear  out  the  idea  of 
monastic  ownership,  as,  always  wise  and  provident  for  their 
creature  comforts,  the  old  monks'  well-known  rule  and  custom, 
was  to  have  three  ponds  to  be  used  in  rotation  to  hold  their 
fish,  one  of  the  three  ponds  being  annually  drained  and  sown 
with  a  crop  to  keep  all  fresh  and  wholesome,  and  ensure  no 
possible  sediment  remaining  at  the  bottom. 

When  the  present  owner  took  possession  in  1911  he  found 
a  charge  of  us.  a  year  payable  to  no  less  than  seven  different 
persons  in  the  shape  of  a  fee-farm  rent,  and  the  schedule  relating 
to  it  ran  as  follows  :— 

"  Wilts  No.  248. 

"  All  that  annual  or  fee-farm  rent  of  us.,  issuing  or  payable 
out  of,  or  for  Purton  House,  Purton,  in  the  County  of  Wilts 
(formerly  part  of  the  possessions  of  the  late  Monastery  of 
Malmesbury)." 

If  interesting  from  age,  it  was  a  tiresome  transaction,  and 
so  for  the  sum  of  £16  "  the  seven  "  were  induced  to  abandon 
their  claim,  and  the  new  owner  obtained  an  indefeasible  title, 
which  had  not  been  enjoyed  since  the  Dissolution  of  the 
Monasteries.  The  underground  stream,  which,  after  flowing 
through  the  fishponds  in  the  vicarage  garden,  wends  its  way 
under  the  road  and  beneath  the  present-day  kitchen  garden 
at  Purton  House,  has  a  sluice  arranged  to  feed  the  lake  when 
desired,  and  this  is  probably  part  of  the  old  water  system, 
when  the  mill  below  was  an  object  of  some  importance,  and 
is  mentioned  as  such  in  the  Domesday  Book. 

Francis  Goddard,  was  followed  by  Edward  Anthony  and 
Richard,  of  whom  we  have  already  given  some  particulars, 
and  after  their  day  the  place  passed  through  the  hands  of 
many  owners,  as  some  say  Church  lands  are  wont  to  do. 
The  deeds  tell  the  story  of  sales,  mortgages,  and  leases  ;  truly, 
amidst  the  cloud  of  words  and  "  vain  repetitions  "  it  is  no 
easy  task  to  discover  what  is  doubtless  of  interest  to  record. 
In  the  old  days  the  orchard  was  much  larger,  stretching  almost 
half-way  across  the  present  park,  and  the  ridge  of  its 
boundary  fence  can  now  be  plainly  seen,  four  huge  trees 
marking  the  upper  line.  The  coppices,  which  now  are  divided, 

70 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

were  formerly  joined  in  a  continuous  line  across  the  top  of  the 
park. 

In  a  deed  of  sale  of  the  property  of  Mrs.  Sarah  Miles  to 
Horatio  Nelson  Goddard,  in  1840,  the  house  is  referred  to  as 
"  All  that  newly  built  capital  messuage,  tenement  or  dwelling 
house,"  and  also  speaks  of  the  older  house  as  "  that  ancient 
messuage,  etc.,"  which  was  "taken  down."  Later  in  this 
voluminous  deed  a  reference  is  made  to  "  all  the  Close,  pick,  or 
parcel  of  pasture  ground,  commonly  called  the  Coneygar,  and 
two  Coppices  .  .  .  the  Coneygar  being  now  flooded  and 
covered  with  water." 

The  word  "  Coneygar  "  means  in  old  English  a  rabbit  warren, 
so  apparently  the  bed  of  the  present  lake  was  once  the  haunt 
of  the  coney,  long  since  departed. 

From  the  deed  just  mentioned  it  therefore  appears  that 
certainly  the  principal  rooms  were  built  in  the  thirties,  and  the 
fine  porch  with  its  Ionic  pillars  on  the  western  side  of  the  house 
took  the  place  of  the  older  eastern  entrance,  when  the  drive 
had  run  across  the  Home  Close  to  the  Highworth  Road  with  a 
graceful  curve. 

It  seems  that  the  centre  of  the  house  was  left  intact,  except 
for  the  rooi,  when  this  demolition  took  place,  as  in  the  room 
which  is  now  used  as  a  library,  and  was  formerly  the  servants' 
hall,  a  different  style  is  found,  and  the  wall  to  the  adjoining 
room  measures  nearly  four  feet  in  thickness  ;  also  the  appearance 
of  the  house  outside  in  this  part  (and  the  bedrooms  above)  is 
similar  to  what  we  see  in  Mrs.  Maskelyne's  sketch.  The  servants' 
wing  was  added  by  Major  Prower,  with  the  offices  below,  in  1863. 

Old  Mrs.  Selwood,  still  alive,  clearly  remembers  the  building 
of  the  house,  and  relates  that  while  this  was  in  course  of  erection 
the  family  lived  in  the  older  wing,  which  ran  in  the  direction  of 
the  kitchen  garden,  and  was  taken  down  in  its  turn  when  the 
mansion  was  fit  for  habitation.  Events  make  a  marvellous 
impression  on  a  child's  brain,  and  though  nearing  her  centenary, 
she  can  still  talk  and  tell  of  what  must  have  happened  at 
least  ninety  years  ago. 

After  the  Prowers'  day  the  Rajah  of  Sarawak,  who  had 
married  a  Wiltshire  lady,  Miss  de  Windt,  bought  Purton  House  ; 
but  it  is  said  the  church  bells  got  on  the  Ranee's  nerves,1 

1  At  that  date  the  bell  was  tolled  all  day  when  a  parishioner  died. 

71 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

and  so  they  only  stayed  a  short  time.  The  Russell  family 
took  a  lease  from  the  Rajah,  and  at  last  purchased  the  place 
in  1899.  Miss  Russell  having  bought  Red  House,  went  to  live 
there  in  1908.  The  present  owner  made  many  interior,  altera- 
tions to  bring  things  up  to  modern  requirements,  and  relieved 
the  house  from  a  dense  mass  of  trees  and  shrubs  which  had 
surrounded  it.  He  formed  the  terrace  round  the  south  front, 
took  in  'a  considerable  piece  of  the  Home  Close  as  pleasure 
ground,  planting  a  yew  hedge  in  1915,  and  in  the  preceding 
autumn  laid  out  the  beginning  of  the  rose  garden  with  its  paved 
walks,  gay  with  rock  plants,  and  a  stone  dial  to  mark  "  only  the 
sunny  hours."  When  planting  shrubs  opposite  the  garden 
wall  a  few  years  ago  an  old  key  was  dug  up,  which  was  of  such 
a  quaint  shape  that  the  writer  took  it  up  to  London  to  show  to 
the  expert  at  the  Victoria  and  Albert  Museum.  He  pronounced 
it  to  be  fourteenth  century,  and  one  of  the  earliest  of  keys.  A 
silver  token  was  dug  up  in  the  yard,  and  many  copper  coins 
of  various  dates  have  come  to  light. 

The  Green  Walk,  so  called  in  the  old  deeds,  runs  along  the 
entire  length  of  the  lake,  which  is  about  two  acres  in  extent, 
with  a  stoned-faced  ha-ha,  and  is  shown  exactly  as  at  present 
in  a  prettily  coloured  map  dated  1824. 

In  ancient  days  the  "  way  in  "  was  by  the  side  walk,  now 
called  the  "  Monk's  Walk,"  with  its  ivied  wall  and  clipped  yew 
hedge,  a  grateful  shade  on  a  summer  day.  It  would  indeed  be 
difficult  to  find  a  more  peaceful  scene  than  when  from  the 
Green  Walk  by  the  large  Irish  yew,  on  a  still  evening  in  June 
one  looks  across  the  lake  at  the  venerable  grey  towers  and  spire 
of  the  grand  old  Church,  which  with  the  copper  beech,  the 
great  cedar,  and  Purton  House  itself,  lie  mirrored  in  the  still 
waters.  This  great  cedar  was  planted  by  Sir  George  Hayter, 
the  famous  early  Victorian  portrait  and  historical  painter. 
He  was  staying  at  Purton  House  about  seventy  years  ago  in 
order  to  paint  Major  and  Mrs.  Prower's  pictures,  and  so  com- 
memorated his  visit.  The  story  goes  that  some  goats,  trespassing 
where  they  should  not,  nibbled  the  top  off  the  young  tree,  the 
result  being  that,  failing  its  leader,  the  tree  broke  out  into 
what  became  the  fourteen  mighty  limbs  of  later  days. 

Sir   George   Hayter   also   painted   the   portrait   of   Canon 
Prower,  which  now  hangs  at  Sissells,  a  pleasant  picture  and, 

72 


THE   STORY   OF   PURTON 

it  is  said,  an  excellent  likeness.  One  old  John  Templer,  who 
knew  him  well,  remarked  when  shown  the  picture  that  "  it 
looked  as  if  '  Passon  '  had  had  a  glass  of  wine." 

In  this  connection  a  story  told  recently  by  an  old  inhabitant 
may  be  given.  He  said  that  in  the  good  old  days  Major  Prower 
held  a  temperance  meeting  at  Purton  House  (which  cause  he 
had  much  at  heart),  and  that  after  tea  he  stepped  out  of  the 
dining-room  window  and  addressed  the  meeting  as  follows  : 
"  I  like  my  glass  of  beer,  and  I  like  to  see  my  men  enjoy  it." 
This  was  all  the  old  man  remembered,  though  doubtless  Major 
Prower  had  more  to  say  which  is  not  recorded. 

The  present  owner,  Captain  Arthur  Percy  Richardson,  is 
an  Ulsterman  by  birth,  his  family  having  settled  there  in  the 
days  of  the  famous  Plantation,  from  the  borders  of  Oxfordshire 
and  Warwickshire,  where  his  ancestor,  the  Rev.  John 
Richardson,  M.A.  Oxon.,  held  considerable  "landes"  in  the 
sixteenth  and  seventeenth  centuries  around  Mollington. 
Captain  Richardson  served  for  eight  years  with  the  5th  Batt. 
Royal  Irish  Rifles,  and  on  the  outbreak  of  war  offered  his 
services  in  any  capacity  to  the  War  Office.  He  was  appointed 
Adjutant  to  the  National  Reserve  at  Swindon,  and  after  five 
months'  voluntary  work  there  re-enrolling  reservists,  he  was 
offered  the  command  of  a  company  in  the  loth  Batt.  The  Suffolk 
Regiment,  in  which  he  served  for  six  months,  a  medical  report 
preventing  his  going,  as  he  hoped,  to  France. 

His  two  surviving  sons  are  : 

Edmond  St.  John,  who  served  with  the  Wiltshire  Yeomanry 
during  the  Great  War  as  a  trooper  until  rheumatism  obliged 
him  to  leave.  He  had  previously  held  a  commission  for  four 
years  in  the  Denbighshire  Hussars  Yeomanry. 

Arthur  Kenneth,  commands  a  company  in  the  3rd  Batt. 
Royal  Welch  Fusiliers,  having  served  in  the  trenches  in  France 
with  the  immortal  7th  Division  for  seven  months  in  1914-15, 
and  taking  part  in  the  Battle  of  Festubert,  when  he  commanded 
the  trench-mortar  guns  in  the  22nd  Brigade,  and  was  one  of  five 
officers  left  in  the  regiment  after  the  battle. 

Capt.  A.  P.  Richardson  is  a  member  of  the  Carlton  Club, 
and  was  formerly  Master  of  the  Old  Killultagh  Harriers  in  County 
Antrim. 

A  few  touching  lines  are  to  be  seen  on  a  grey  headstone  in 

73 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

the  churchyard,  of  one  William  Andrews,  who  with  his  "  kind 
master  true  "  laid  out  the  woodland  walks  at  Purton  House.  * 

"  Here  sleepeth  one  who  lived  devoid  of  all, 
Hasty  in  word,  but  very  kind  of  heart, 
Skilled  in  business,  giving  all  their  due, 
Honest  and  just,  to  his  kind  master  true, 
Rejoicing  in  the  Park,  and  Lake,  and  Shade 
Of  woodland  paths,  he  and  his  master  made, 
Wife,  children,  neighbours,  bless  his  Christian  end. 
And  mourn  the  loss  of  husband,  Father,  Friend." 

Died  June  ist  1847 — born  1777. 

In  Gary's  B  New  Itinery  of  the  Great  Roads  with  Noblemen's 
and  Gentlemen's  seats  of  England  and  Wales  and  parts  of  Scotland, 
we  find  Purton  House  described  as  "on  the  right  of  Purton 
Street,"  and  as  the  residence  of  Dr.  Richard  Goddard.  This  looks 
as  though  the  Church  was  considered  the  centre  of  the  village, 
as  only  passing  in  that  way  along  the  Highworth  Road  could 
Purton  House  be  so  described.  Lydiard  Park  is  said  to  be 
"  on  the  right  of  Hooke  Street."  Even  in  these  days  of  finger- 
posts at  all  the  corners,  it  is  no  easy  task  sometimes  to  find  the 
way,  and  with  only  Gary's  book  to  guide  one  it  must  have  been 
puzzling  indeed,  for  as  to  which  is  the  right-hand  side  remains 
an  open  question.  Possibly  the  traveller  when  taking  directions 
always  faced  due  north. 

The  Manor  House. 

This  fine  specimen  of  the  smaller  type  of  manor  house  stands 
close  to  the  Church,  and  with  it  forms  one  of  the  most  charming 
groups  of  buildings  in  North  Wilts.  The  property  belonged 
to  Malmesbury  Abbey  before  the  dissolution  of  the  religious 
houses,  and  the  names  of  the  last  tenants  of  this  great  mitred 
house,  Bennet  and  Joy,  are  preserved  to  us  in  the  case  brought 
by  them  in  Star-Chamber  against  Sir  Edmond  Bridges,  some  of 
the  details  of  which  may  be  found  in  another  chapter  of  this  book. 

"  The  Mancion  House "  mentioned  in  these  proceedings 
must  have  had  a  very  different  appearance  from  that  of  to-day, 
for  it  was  practically  rebuilt  about  the  end  of  the  sixteenth 
century  by  Lord  Chandos,  who  then  owned  the  property. 
He  seems  to  have  sold  it  a  little  later  to  Sir  John  Cooper,  who 

1  Also  at  Red  Lodge.  *  Published  September  ist,  1792. 

74 


THE   MAN'OR    HOUSE,   PLJRTOX,  NORTH    FRONT,   LOOKING   SOUTH-WEST. 


THE  MANOR    HOUSE,   I'URTON,   SOUTH    FRONT. 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

married  the  heiress  of  Sir  Anthony  Ashley,  of  Wimborne  St. 
Giles,  and  was  the  ancestor  of  the  Earls  of  Shaftesbury.  His 
son  was  Lord  Chancellor  to  Charles  II.,  and  the  "Ashley" 
of  the  Cabal  Ministry.  It  is  not  known  how  many  of  this  family 
actually  resided  at  the  Manor  House,  but  in  the  eighteenth 
century  the  Honourable  Maurice  Ashley  (who  had  dropped 
the  name  of  Cooper)  lived  here  with  his  wife,  Katherine  Popple, 
and  they  lie  buried  in  the  Church,  and  are  commemorated  by  a 
tablet  with  a  Latin  inscription  on  the  chancel  wall.  After 
this  the  house  seems  to  have  been  used  exclusively  by  tenants 
renting  the  land  from  the  Shaftesbury  family,  and  it  was 
probably  during  this  period  that  the  house  was  fitted  up 
internally  to  meet  the  requirements  of  an  ordinary  farmhouse. 

In  1892  Lord  Shaftesbury  sold  all  his  Purton  estates,  and 
the  house  and  land,  then  known  as  the  Church  Farm,  were 
bought  by  Mr.  Charles  Beak,  a  native  of  Purton,  who  emigrated 
to  Mexico,  and  there  made  a  sufficient  fortune  to  enable  him  to 
purchase  the  property  which  he  knew  so  well  in  his  boyhood. 
On  his  death,  in  1900,  the  Manor  House  and  land  adjoining 
were  sold  by  the  representatives  of  the  Beak  family  to  Mrs. 
Walsh,  widow  of  Arthur  Francis  Walsh,  of  the  Hoystings, 
Canterbury. 

Though  outwardly  the  house  was  altered  as  little  as  possible, 
internally  the  changes  made  were  considerable.  On  the  ground 
floor  the  small  lobby,  hall,  and  parlour  adjoining  were  knocked 
into  one  to  make  a  lounge  hall,  the  north  wall  of  the  parlour 
being  removed  to  give  access  to  an  oak  staircase  which  took  the 
place  of  a  small  deal  one  that  rose  abruptly  from  the  front  door 
to  the  first  floor  passage.  A  drawing-room  was  obtained  by 
knocking  into  one  two  small  rooms  which  had  been  used  for 
farm  purposes  for  over  a  century.  In  this  room  and  in  the 
hall  and  dining-room  open  fireplaces  were  built.  The  chief 
alteration  outside  was  the  addition  of  a  small  wing  on  the  north 
side  of  the  house  and  the  removal  of  some  unsightly  outbuildings. 
During  Mr.  Beak's  ownership  the  brick  chimney  stacks,  which 
to  judge  from  an  old  drawing  must  have  been  a  conspicuous 
feature  of  the  house,  were  lowered,  as  from  want  of  repair  he 
considered  it  advisable  to  reduce  their  height,  some  of  the 
brickwork  having  fallen  in  a  gale. 

The  gardens  surrounding  the  house  were  all  laid  out  after 

75 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

Mrs.  Walsh  had  bought  the  place.  Steeple  Piece,  the  field  at 
the  back,  was  turned  into  pasture  and  a  belt  of  trees  planted  all 
round.  The  old  manorial  dovecote  which  stood  in  the  farmyard 
was  brought  into  the  garden,  pigsties  and  a  large  cart  shed  were 
removed,  lawns  laid  out,  a  pergola  built,  and  a  belt  of  trees 
planted  next  to  the  churchyard.  The  great  barn  was  repaired 
and  stabling  made  in  part  of  it,  the  rick  yard  was  quarried  by 
degrees  and  laid  out  as  a  kitchen  garden.  The  old  winnowing 
shed  projecting  from  the  barn  being  unfortunately  beyond 
restoration  had  to  be  demolished,  but  the  hatch  through  which 
the  sheaves  were  passed  can  still  be  seen  in  the  wall  of  the  barn. 

Mrs.  Walsh's  son,  Mr.  Arthur  Walsh,  late  R.N.,  has  been 
again  serving  his  country  during  the  war  in  connection  with  the 
Navy,  and  Miss  Walsh  is  untiring  in  her  labours  to  help  on  all 
good  work  in  Purton. 

Mrs.  Walsh  and  she  are  expert  gardeners,  and  their  flower 
borders  and  lawns  are  a  picture  of  beauty.  Overshadowed  by 
the  lofty  Church  towers,  and  with  the  beautiful  old  house  and 
barn  as  a  background,  it  all  forms  a  delightful  picture. 


76 


CHAPTER    X 

THE  OLD  VICARAGE — FACULTY  FOR  PURTON  HOUSE  PEW — 
RESTROP  HOUSE 

IN  1912,  the  graveyard  being  full,  it  was  decided  by  the 
Bishop  to  move  the  existing  vicarage,  which,  built  time  out  of 
mind,  had  gradually  become  surrounded  on  three  sides  by 
graves,  making  it  impossible  as  a  residence. 

It  had  a  pretty  garden  and  fine  shrubs,  and  the  house, 
though  very  old  and  inconvenient  to  modern  ideas,  was  dearly 
loved  by  our  late  Vicar.  The  writer  well  remembers  the 
tragic  grief  on  his  face  when,  meeting  him  one  morning  after 
the  demolition  had  begun,  he  remarked,  "  I  have  been  to 
see  my  house"  He  had  lived  there  for  over  thirty  years,  much 
beloved  and  respected,  and  it  was  hard  to  move  in  his  later 
life  to  new  surroundings,  and  a  real  trial  to  him.  The  Vicar 
always  held  that  with  the  monastery  at  Purton  House  the 
vicarage  was  the  hospice,  and  there  was  one  room  there  which 
had  evidently  served  as  a  chapel.  A  curious  stone  fire-place 
was  discovered  built  up  in  the  wall  of  one  of  the  rooms,  and 
also  a  pretty  window-frame,  both  of  which  have  been  happily 
utilised  in  the  new  building ;  the  latter  is  placed  over  the 
entrance  door. 

It  was  thought  that  possibly  some  of  the  figures  which 
formerly  had  their  places  in  the  beautiful  niches  of  the  Church 
might  have  been  buried  beneath  this  old  house,  but  such,  alas ! 
was  not  the  case,  only  a  few  coins  and  some  bones  were  brought 
to  light. 

It  must  be  many  centuries  since  the  garden  surrounding 
the  old  vicarage  was  made,  and  a  fact  that  wants  some  explana- 
tion is  the  frequent  discovery  of  skeletons  as  the  ground  is  dug 
to  form  new  graves.  It  seems  to  lend  confirmation  to  the  late 
Vicar's  theory  that  this  building  was  the  hospice,  and  possibly 
the  wayfarers  from  other  parts  of  the  country  were  laid  to  rest 
there,  and  not  buried  in  the  ground  belonging  to  the  parishioners. 
No  skeletons  were  found  in  the  newer  upper  portion,  which  did 

77 


not  include  the  vicarage  garden,  but  which  has  been  taken  into 
the  graveyard  in  recent  years. 

There  is  a  curious  tradition  of  an  underground  passage 
from  Purton  to  Malmesbury,  and,  strange  to  say,  two  years 
ago,  when  Mrs.  Dash's  grave  was  being  dug,  an  arched  way 
was  come  upon,  apparently  in  the  supposed  line ;  but  this  was 
possibly  a  monastic  water  conduit,  which  was  sometimes 
brought  for  many  miles  in  pre-Reformation  days. 

The  larger  houses  in  the  old  days  held  what  were  called 
"  faculties  "  giving  a  right  to  a  pew  in  the  Church,  and  one  such 
deed  is  in  the  possession  of  the  owner  of  Purton  House,  granted 
in  1698  under  the  seal  of  the  Chancellor  of  the  Diocese  of  Sarum, 
and  runs  as  follows  : — 

Robert  Loggan  Batchellour  of  Lawes  and  Chancellour  of 
the  Diocess  of  Sarum  ;  To  all  Christian  people  to  whom  these 
Presents  shall  come,  sendeth  greeting ;  whereas  request  hath 
been  made  to  us  on  the  part  and  behalf  of  ffrancis  Goddard  of 
Pirton  in  the  County  of  Wilts,  and  Diocess  of  Sarum  Esq,  that 
the  seats  or  pew  built  and  situate  in  the  South  Isle  of  the  Parish 
Church  of  Pirton  aforesaid,  being  six  foot  and  half  an  inch  in 
length,  and  near  about  three  foot  in  breadth,  adjoining  to 
another  seat  belonging  to  the  sd  ffrancis  Goddard  on  the  East, 
and  the  seats  of  Sir  Anthony  Ashley  Cooper  on  the  West,  to 
the  Church  wall  on  the  South,  and  opening  to  the  North  (which 
said  seats  for  many  years  past  hath  been  and  now  is  in  the 
possession  of  the  sd  ffrancis  Goddard)  might  be  confirmed  to 
him,  his  heirs  and  assigns  for  so  long  as  he  or  they  occupy  and 
possess  the  House  and  Estate  within  the  sd  Parish  of  Purton 
which  he  now  enjoyeth,  for  himself  or  them  his  or  their  familys 
to  sitt  stand  and  kneel  in,  to  hear  Divine  Service  and  sermons. 
Now  know  you,  that  we,  proceeding  herein  as  the  Law  in  Church 
rules  directs  and  appoints,  by  issuing  forth  said  Proclamation 
under  said  seal  of  office  bearing  date  the  fourth  day  of  February 
last  past,  riteing  [sic]  and  admonishing  all  Persons  haveing  any 
right  or  interest  in  or  to  the  same  seats,  to  appear  and  sett  forth 
and  propose  forth  their  right  or  interest  therein  in  due  forms 
of  Law,  if ,  any  they  have,  which  Proclamation  being  duly 
executed,  returned  and  verified  to  us,  and  noe  Person  appearing, 
(excepting  one  John  Eatell  of  the  sd  Parish,  by  his  Proctor, 

78 


RESTROP    HOUSE,    PURTON. 
The  residence  uf  Colonel  Canning,  C.M.G. 


THE   MALI.,    KliSTKOP    HOUSE,   PURTON. 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

who  after  a  competent  terme  assigned  him,  did  not  sett  forth 
or  Propose  any  Right  or  interest  in  or  to  the  same  seats,  but 
rather  declined  all  power  thereto) ,  Doce  of  S  Ordinary  power  and 
authority,  and  as  far  as  by  the  Ecc.ticall  Laws  we  are  enabled, 
grant,  verify  and  confirme  the  sd  seats  or  Pew,  situate  as  afore- 
said, unto  the  sd  ffrancis  Goddard,  for  him,  his  heirs,  and 
Assigns,  for  long  as  he  or  they  occupy  or  possess  the  House  and 
estate  within  the  sd  Parish  of  Purton  which  he  now  enjoyeth, 
for  himself  or  them,  his,  or  their  familys  to  sitt,  stand,  and 
kneel  in,  to  hear  Divine  Service  and  sermon  without  the  Loss 
hindrance,  interruption  or  Disturbance  of  any  Person  or  Persons 
what  soever. 

In  witness  whereof  we  have  caused  the  seals  of  our  Office 
to  be  affixed  to  these  presents.  Dated  at  Sarum  thiss  two 
and  twentieth  day  of  March  in  the  year  of  Our  Lord  God 
One  thousand  six  hundred  ninety  and  eight,  according  to  the 
Style  of  the  Church  of  England. 

Ed.   Thistlethwayte.     Regius. 


Honi  Soit. 

2  of  these  stamps  6d.  each. 

VI  pence. 


Restrop  House. 

"  This  house  is  as  good  and  pure  a  specimen  of  Elizabethan 
architecture  as  could  be  found,"  *  built  of  stone,  the  roof  of  old 
grey  tiles  with  overhanging  eaves,  and  with  the  fine  transomed 
windows,  an  especially  picturesque  effect  is  given  to  the  front 
or  south  side. 

Like  many  other  houses  of  the  period,  it  was  built  in  the  form 
of  the  letter  E,  a  compliment  we  may  suppose  to  the  Queen. 
It  is  said  that  Queen  Elizabeth  spent  a  night  in  it,  but  that  is 
scarcely  likely,  although  she  probably  did  see  the  house  passing 
on  her  way  from  Burderop  to  Cirencester. 

The  name  is  thought  to  signify  red,  and  speaks  of  war  and 

1  Wilts  Notes  and  Queries. 
79 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

battle  in  bygone  times.  Sad  to  relate,  the  history  of  the  house 
seems  to  be  buried  and  lost,  and  no  information  can  be  obtained 
as  to  who  built  it,  and  of  those  who  lived  and  died  there  during 
the  four  hundred  years  of  its  existence. 

Ringsbury  Camp,  not  far  away,  is  evidence  of  the  importance 
of  the  position  from  very  early  times,  and  there  is  a  tradition 
of  a  battle  having  been  fought  near  by  during  the  Wars  of 
the  Parliament. 

The  names  of  "  Battle  Well "  and  "  Battle  Cottages  "  seem 
to  confirm  this.  Human  skeletons  and  a  stone  cannon-ball 
have  also  been  found  buried  near  the  house.  One  cannot  think 
that  the  owners  of  Restrop  dwelt  unconcerned  during  such 
a  long  and  eventful  period,  and  it  is  to  be  supposed  that  they 
must  have  taken  at  least  some  small  share  in  what  was  passing 
around  them. 

Together  with  other  property  in  the  Parish  of  Purton, 
Restrop  belonged  to  the  Shaftesbury  family.  It  is  not  known 
if  any  member  ever  resided  there,  but  the  coat  of  arms  over 
the  entrance  to  the  porch  is  the  Ashley-Coopers'.  How  strange 
it  is  that  the  first  Earl  of  Clarendon,  Lord  Chancellor  of  England, 
and  his  great  political  opponent  the  Earl  of  Shaftesbury  should 
have  been  near  neighbours  and  adjoining  landowners  in  this 
quiet  Wiltshire  village.  After  being  in  the  possession  of  the 
Shaftesbury  family  for  some  two  hundred  and  eighty  years 
the  house  passed  into  other  hands,  and  was  purchased  by  the 
present  owner,  Colonel  Canning,  in  1912.  He,  with  due 
regard  to  the  character  and  beauty  of  the  house,  has  made  it 
his  object  to  renovate  and  preserve  the  building,  and  to 
restore  it  as  much  as  possible  to  its  original  state. 

Partitions  put  up  in  recent  times  have  been  removed,  to 
bring  the  hall  to  its  former  dimensions.  A  fine  stone  fire-place 
has  been  uncovered,  providing  a  hearth  admirably  fitted  for 
a  fire  of  logs.  The  stone  fire-places  are  a  feature  of  the  house, 
as  are  the  oak  stairs. 

In  the  drawing-room  there  is  a  good  specimen  of  a  Jacobean 
fire-place.  A  small  dais  at  one  end  and  a  "  powder  room,"  with 
newly-found  oak  panelling,  give  an  old-world  effect,  and  an 
endeavour  in  the  style  of  furnishing  has  been  made  to  bring  all 
into  harmony. 

Lieut.-Col.    Canning  is  a   Wiltshireman   by  birth,   and  a 

80 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

collateral  relation  of  the  family  of  Lord  Stratford  de  Redcliffe. 
On  the  outbreak  of  war  he  rejoined  the  Army  and  commanded 
a  battalion  in  Gallipoli,  including  the  far-famed  evacuation, 
and  afterwards  in  the  Arabian  Desert.  In  recognition  of  these 
services  he  received  from  His  Majesty  the  well-earned  decoration 
of  The  Most  Distinguished  order  of  St.  Michael  and  St.  George. 
He  is  at  present  serving  in  Ireland. 


81 


CHAPTER   XI 

WATKINS*  CORNER — PRESENT-DAY  RESIDENTS — PURTON  STOKE — 
" CURLY  TOM  " 

ON  the  road  to  Purton  Stoke  is  a  sharp  turn,  almost  describing 
a  crook,  and  a  gruesome  tale  is  told  of  the  spot. 

One  Watkins  was  accused  of  having  committed  a  murder, 
and  at  this  corner  a  gallows1  was  erected  (some  say  a  tree 
was  used)  and  in  full  view  of  the  public  the  last  sad  reparation 
was  exacted.  Some  time  afterwards,  the  story  goes,  the  father 
of  Watkins  confessed  that  he,  and  not  his  son,  was  the  guilty 
person.  A  fearful  thunderstorm  raged  after  the  hanging 
took  place,  as  though  Heaven  itself  were  raising  a  protest, 
and  folks  say  that  the  hangman's  horse,  taking  fright  on  the 
way  home,  upset  the  trap,  breaking  his  master's  neck. 

A  tale  is  also  told  of  a  sudden  fire  some  years  later,  which 
reduced  to  ashes  the  very  gallows  used  and  the  shed  wherein 
it  stood. 

Of  course,  the  corner  was  said  to  be  haunted,  and  further 
tragedy  followed.  One  dark  night  some  friends  who  had  been 
drinking  were  talking  of  Watkins,  and  one  offered  to  bet  another 
that  he  would  not  dare  to  creep  along  the  ditch  and  say,  "  Well, 
Watkins,  how  are  you  feeling  ?  " 

The  bet  was  accepted,  and  unknown  to  him  who  took  it  up 
another  crept  to  the  farther  end  awaiting  his  advent.  When 
the  question  was  duly  asked,  the  reply  came,  "  Very  cold  and 
miserable,"  and  this  was  so  terrifying,  and  also  so  unexpected, 
that  the  unlucky  sportsman,  having  a  weak  heart,  collapsed 
and  died  of  fright. 

These  public  hangings  were  considered  a  sight  not  to  be 
missed  if  it  was  possible  to  get  there.  North  Wiltshire  folk  loved 
to  attend  the  Devizes  Hang  Fair  as  recently  as  the  early  part  of 
the  nineteenth  century.  The  late  Rev.  C.  W.  Bradford, 2  who 
took  his  B.  A.  Degree  at  Oxford  in  1852,  used  to  tell  his  son-in-law 

1  A  Staley  of  Purton  erected  the  gallows. 
1  Vicar  of  Clyffe  Pypard,  1863-1883. 

82 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

how  he  went  up  the  tower  of  St.  Peter-le-Bailey  Church  at 
Oxford  to  get  a  good  view  oi  a  hanging,  and  the  writer's  father 
used  to  relate  how,  when  driving  on  his  father's  (Sir  James 
Stronge)  coach,  which  was  called  "  the  '74,"  he  saw  the  dead 
body  of  a  man  hanging  on  a  gibbet  at  Shrewsbury,  who  had  been 
executed  for  highway  robbery.  This  was  in  the  year  1836. 

Miss  Prower  remembers  that  her  grandfather,  Canon  Prower, 
as  Vicar,  was  obliged  to  attend  Watkins'  execution,  and  to  read 
the  last  solemn  service  over  the  unfortunate  condemned  man. 
The  book  which  he  used  on  this  occasion  was  a  small  Prayer 
Book,  now  at  Sissells,  and  on  the  fly-leaf  is  the  following 
inscription  : — 

"  Robert  Watkins  of  the  Burrough  of  Wootton  Bassett  read 
from  this  book  the  108  Psalm,  when  on  the  Scaffold  for  the 
murder  of  Stephen  Rodway  of  Cricklade  Friday  July  30th. 
1819. 

"  JOHN  MERVIN  PROWER." 

The  Prayer  Book  was  published  in  London  in  the  year 
1787,  and  an  asterisk  on  the  exhortation  which  begins  "  Dearly 
beloved  "  points  to  a  note  below  as  follows  : — 

"  This  exhortation  is  fraught  with  preparatory  instruction 
to  worship  Jehovah  in  spirit  and  in  truth." 

It  is  strange  to  hold  the  little  volume  in  one's|hand  open 
at  the  io8th  Psalm,  and  to  think  of  Watkins'  feelings  as  he  read, 
"  Awake,  thou  lute,  and  harp  :  I  myself  will  awake  right  early  " 
with  the  noose  already  round  his  neck  !  In  the  thirteenth  verse 
there  was  more  suitable  expression  to  his  desperate  situation, 
"  O  help  us  against  the  enemy  :  for  vain  is  the  help  of  man." 

Stranger  still  to  relate,  Canon  Prower  allowed  his  seven- 
year-old  son,  afterwards  Major  Prower,  to  be  brought  as  a 
spectator,  and  even  held  up  by  the  gardener  "  to  get  a  better 
view  ! " 

All  praise  to  those  who  put  a  stop  to  such  spectacles  in 
the  ensuing  years,  for  surely  such  sights  must  have  only 
pandered  to  an  unhealthy  taste  for  horrors,  though  doubtless 
well  meant  as  ar  deterrent  to  evildoers. 

Old  Mr.  Lewis  says  he  remembers  Canon  Prower's  four- 
wheeled  shaj'  in  which  he  used  to  drive  himself  about  when  Lewis 

83 


THE   STORY    OF    PURTON 

was  a  little  boy.  It  had  a  seat  facing  the  driver  and  one  behind, 
and  on  the  front  seat  he  always  had  three  baskets,  which  the 
children  knew  well,  for  one  contained  apples,  one  sweets, 
and  one  coppers,  which  the  old  gentleman  used  to  throw  to 
the  children  to  scramble  for,  amidst  shouts  of  laughter  from  him- 
self and  them.  "  Oh,  we  all  knew  his  carriage,"  Lewis  said, 
chuckling  to  himself  at  the  recollection  of  those  far-off  days. 

Mr.  Lewis'  mother,  who  was  a  Daniels,  often  told  her  sons 
•of  the  wonderful  assemblage  on  the  day  John  Watkins  was 
hanged.  The  condemned  man  was  brought  past  Purton  House 
and  round  by  the  churchyard  to  the  place  of  execution,  while 
the  tenor  bell  tolled  its  solemn  chime  for  the  dread  ceremony 
about  to  take  place.  She  said  that  the  body  was  taken  when 
life  was  extinct  to  where  Mr.  Greenaway's  farm  now  is,  and  a 
post-mortem  was  performed,  and  then  it  was  returned  to  be 
buried  at  Watkins'  Corner.  The  crowds  that  gathered  passed 
all  records,  and  his  clothes  seem  to  have  been  greedily  seized 
upon  as  souvenirs,  one  man  even  boasting  that  he  had  worn  his 
boots,  while  an  old  woman  used  to  show  his  braces  carefully 
rolled  in  paper  ! 

Mr.  Pedley  remembers  that  his  old  gardener,  Wilton  by  name, 
used  to  boast  that  he  had  walked  all  the  way  from  Bibury  and 
back  to  see  poor  Watkins  hanged,  and  he  always  spoke  of  the 
terrible  thunderstorm  which  raged  that  day. 

This  Wilton's  brothers,  three  of  them,  all  fought  and  fell 
in  the  Peninsular  War,  which  fact  forms  an  interesting  link  with 
the  past. 

Passing  on,  we  arrive  at  Purton  Stoke,  with  its  pretty 
picturesque  cottages  dotted  about  irregularly,  and  on  the 
right-hand  side  there  stands  the  comfortable  reading  room, 
painted  a  cheerful  green  and  white,  which  was  erected  some 
eight  years  ago  by  the  exertions  of  Mrs.  Warrender,  assisted 
by  contributions  from  various  friends.  It  is  an  inestimable 
boon  to  the  villagers  on  winter  evenings,  and  on  Sundays  is 
used  for  the  Church  services. 

Turning  to  the  left,  we  find  a  charming  old-world  spot, 
Stoke  House,  part  of  it  built,  it  is  said,  in  the  time  of  Charles  II., 
surrounded  by  rose  gardens  in  summer,  and  brilliant  in  spring 
time  with  daffodils  and  other  bulbs.  This  is  the  residence 
of  Miss  Warrender.  Miss  Alice  Warrender  is  the  second  daughter 

84 


THE    STORY    OF    PURTON 

of  the  late  Sir  George  Warrender,  6th  Baronet,  and  sister  of 
the  late  well-known  Admiral  of  the  same  name.  The  latter's 
widow  is  a  sister  of  the  present  Earl  of  Shaftesbury. 

Debrett  tells  us  that  this  family  is  of  French  extraction, 
formerly  de  Warende,  which  settled  in  Scotland  temp.  James  V. 
Miss  Warrender  was  for  several  years  Vicar's  Churchwarden 
to  Purton  Parish,  and  takes  a  deep  interest  in  all  that  tends  to 
the  welfare  of  the  neighbourhood.  In  peace  time  she  was  a 
keen  follower  of  the  V.W.H.  Hounds. 


The  Salts  Hole. 
Quoting  from  The  Leisure  Hour  in  1861,  we  find  as  follows  : 

"  A  valuable  mineral  water  has  been  discovered  near  Purton, 
and  the  analysis  shows  that  this  water  was  rich  beyond  all 
precedent  in  sulphates,  carbonates,  clorides,  phosphates,  iodides, 
and  bromine,  with  sulphuretted  hydrogen,  and  a  very  large 
amount  of  free  carbonic  acid  gases,  and  that  a  similar  water  is 
unknown  in  England  or  the  Continent. 

"  The  spa  is  marked  by  a  small  octagonal  building  in  a  field, 
time  out  of  mind  it  has  been  called  the  Salts  Hole.  The  poor  all 
resort  to  it  and  value  it  highly,  but  the  local  gentry  and  doctors 
placed  no  value  upon  it.  Mr.  S.  C.  Sadler,  who  had  owned  the 
spot  for  fifteen  years,  thought  it  a  nuisance,  as  it  flooded  the 
lane  in  the  winter  months.  At  this  the  poor  bitterly  exclaimed, 
"  You  are  taking  our  physic  from  us,  whatever  shall  we  do  when 
it  is  gone  ?  You  may  say  it  is  no  use,  but  we  know  it  is,  and  our 
fathers  before  us." 

The  story  goes  on  to  tell  how  their  pleading  was  disregarded, 
and  the  place  was  drained,  and  cartloads  of  soil  thrown  on  the 
spot ;  but  the  spring  remained  unvanquished,  and  was  sure 
to  reappear.  Mr.  Sadler  then  railed  it  round  and  put  a  lock 
on  the  gate.  But  the  poor  neighbours  were  not  to  be  done  out 
of  their  physic,  which  "  always  made  them  well,"  and  used  to 
break  the  lock  and  take  it  as  before. 

"  At  last  the  owner  had  a  serious  illness,  and  remembering 
the  persistent  faith  of  the  poor  in  the  despised  spring,  he 

85 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

determined  to  try  it  himself,  and  found  immediate  benefit. 
Two  most  eminent  chemists  were  then  asked  to  make  an 
analysis  of  the  water.  They  found  it  to  contain  the  two  finest 
salts,  and  specially  rich  in  phosphate  of  lime,  which  being  the 
basis  of  bone,  is  specially  good  for  sick  children.  Also  they  found 
that  it  had  none  of  the  irritant  properties  of  most  other  English 
waters,  and  there  is  no  English  spring  resembling  it.  When 
the  well  was  rilled  in  and  destroyed  the  exact  locality  for  a  time 
was  doubtful,  but  a  white  surface  on  a  slight  sinking  of  the 
earth  pointed  to  a  likely  spot,  a  hole  was  made,  and  the 
water  came  bubbling  up,  to  the  great  joy  of  the  neighbourhood. 
This  occurred  in  1859.  A  pump  and  pump-room  were  then 
scientifically  erected"  (and  still  remain). 

"  Many  are  the  cures  attributed  to  the  waters,  though  a 
neighbouring  doctor  jeeringly  remarked,  '  One  can  readily 
compound  the  ingredients,  we  administer  the  same  every  day.'  " 
41  But,"  the  account  continues,  "  the  ingredients  may  indeed  be 
known,  but  not  the  secret  of  their  combination.  The  water 
when  bottled  is  so  full  of  gas,  an  empty  space  must  be  left,  or 
the  neck  would  burst,  when  corked  under  pressure  it  effervesces. 
When  exposed  to  the  air  it  is  in  a  state  of  ferment  owing  to 
the  explosion  of  the  gas,  and  it  has  a  milky  appearance." 
In  a  paper  by  Mr.  S.  C.  Sadler,  M.R.C.S.,  we  read  : — 
"  By  the  testimony  of  some  old  people  now  living  in  the 
parish,  it  is  certain  that  this  mineral  well  was  known  and  much 
resorted  to  at  a  very  remote  period.  Thus : — 

"'Isaac  Beasley,  now  (1860)  in  the  93rd  year  of  his  age,  and 
possessing  extraordinary  power  of  memory,  and  great  physical 
strength  for  his  years,  states  that  all  his  life  he  had  been  in  the 
habit,  when  out  of  health,  of  drinking  this  water,  and  it  was 
certain  to  put  him  right,  and  that  his  father  took  this  water 
as  physic,  and  a  vast  number  of  folks  in  his  young  days  took 
this  water  for  all  manner  of  diseases,  and  it  mostly  cured  them. 
He  heard  his  father  say  that  often  a  great  man  came  down 
from  Oxford,  with  a  coach  and  four  horses,  to  get  some  water 
from  the  Salts  Hole.'  " 

These  facts  would  date  some  two  hundred  years  back  from 
the  present  day. 

The  waters  are  to  this  day  drunk  by  the  country-folk  as  a 

86 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

cure  for  many  ailments,  a  cart  full  of  bottles  dispensing  to  the 
customers  who  desire  it. 

Turning  again  sharply  to  the  left  brings  us  to  Pond's  Farm, 
a  very  quaint  and  interesting  old  house,  famous  for  having  been 
the  residence  of  Bathes  and  Maskelynes  in  days  gone  by,  and 
called  "  The  Mansion  House  at  Stoke  "  in  ancient  deeds.  Here 
it  was  that  Nevil  Maskelyne  lived,  the  great  astronomer  whose 
mind  was  able  to  defy  space  and  distance,  weigh  the  stars, 
and  foretell  the  courses  of  the  planets.  It  is  now  the  residence 
of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Ponting,  whose  excellent  cheeses  are  celebrated 
far  beyond  Purton. 

But  we  must  retrace  our  steps,  and  climb  the  long  Purton 
Hill,  passing  the  old  toll-gate  on  the  right  and  Purton  Court 
at  the  corner,  now  the  residence  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Bickford. 

Passing  the  College  Farm  brings  us  to  "  The  Cedars,"  the 
residence  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  John  Fox.  Everyone  was  glad  to 
welcome  them  back  from  Australia  in  the  autumn  of  1916, 
after  an  absence  of  three  years.  He  is  the  owner  of  extensive 
cattle  ranches  in  Queensland,  and  pays  them  periodical  visits. 
He  served  in  the  South  African  War  with  the  Australian1 
contingent,  and  is  a  Hampshire  man  by  birth ;  his  elder  brother 
is  the  owner  of  Adbury  Park,  near  Newbury.  Mrs.  Fox  is 
descended  from  the  old  Puritan  family  of  Winthrop.  Her 
ancestor  was  the  famous  John  Winthrop,  who,  when  the  question 
of  emigration  "  to  a  land  in  the  West  where  religion  and  liberty 
could  find  a  safe  and  lasting  home  "  *  arose,  said  :  "  I  shall 
call  that  my  country  where  I  may  most  glorify  God,  and  enjoy 
the  presence  of  my  dearest  friends."  The  emigrants  during 
this  time  were  many  of  them  men  of  large  landed  estates, 
shrewd  London  lawyers,  or  young  scholars  from  Oxford. 

"  Farewell,  dear  England  ! ' '  was  their  cry  as  the  ships  bore 
them  from  these  shores  to  the  unknown  country  across  the  wide 
ocean. 

"  Our  hearts,"  wrote  John  Winthrop 's  followers  to  those 
left  behind,  "  shall  be  fountains  of  tears  for  your  everlasting 
welfare,  when  we  shall  be  in  our  poor  cottages  in  the  wilderness." 

Many  died  miserably  of  cold  and  discomfort  in  the  first 
terrible  winter.  A  letter  from  Winthrop  runs  thus  :  "  I  thank 

1  In  the  Queensland  Mounted  Infantry. 
2  Green's  History  oj  the  English  People,  p.  493. 

87 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

God  I  like  so  well  to  be  here,  as  I  do  not  repent  my  coming. 
I  would  not  have  altered  my  course,  though  I  had  foreseen  all 
these  afflictions,  I  never  had  more  content  of  mind." 

Three  thousand  Puritans  arrived  there  from  England  in 
a  single  year.  Laud's  persecutions  led  to  their  abolishing 
Episcopacy,  and  abandoning  the  use  of  the  Book  of  Common 
Prayer. 

Green  tells  us  that  "  between  the  sailing  of  Winthrop's 
expedition  and  the  assembly  of  the  Long  Parliament,  that  is  ten 
or  eleven  years,  two  hundred  emigrant  ships  had  crossed  the 
Atlantic  an,d  twenty  thousand  Englishmen  had  found  refuge 
in  the  West." 

But  a  day  of  retribution  was  coming,  and  in  1644  "  King 
Pym's"  ride  over  England  on  the  eve  of  the  elections  for  the 
Long  Parliament  brought  new  life  to  England,  and  stopped  the 
tide  of  emigration,  for  as  Winthrop  wrote," The  change  made  all 
men  to  stay  in  England  in  expectation  of  a  new  world." 

A  very  charming  collection  of  family  letters  is  still  preserved, 
telling  of  all  the  difficulties  and  dangers,  fateful  decisions, 
and  cruel  partings,  which  the  Winthrop  family  endured  for 
conscience'  sake. 

Passing  on,  we  come  to  a  picturesque  house  in  the  Georgian 
style,  with  a  high  roof  and  grey  stone  slates.  This  is  "  The 
Close,"  the  residence  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  John  Brown.  Mrs.  Brown's 
father,  the  Rev.  Walter  Mitchell,  was  a  former  Vicar  of  Purton, 
and  Mr.  Brown's  maternal  ancestors  (the  Bathe  family)  have  for 
many  generations  been  well  known  in  the  district. 

Two  sons  are  now  lords  of  the  Manor  of  Purton  Keynes, 
and  a  third  is  fighting  in  Egypt. 

All  Purton  knows  what  a  good  friend  Miss  May  Brown  is, 
and  her  sister,  Miss  Lily  Brown,  has  for  several  years  now  been 
nursing  wounded  soldiers  at  Cheltenham.  Another  daughter, 
Mrs.  Plummer,  lives  at  Wroughton. 

Miss  Ruck,  though  rarely  seen,  still  remembers  her  old 
friends,  and  lends  a  kindly  hand  to  those  in  distress. 

Miss  Maud  Prower  lives  at  Sissells,  a  little  farther  on, 
a  quaint  and  pretty  old  house,  with  a  glorious  view  on  the  north 
side  extending  far  away,  to  the  Cotswold  Hills. 

The  name  Sissells  doubtless  comes  from  a  former  owner, 
one  Joan  Sistell,  widow,  who  in  1640  held  a  close  and  pasture 

88 


THE   STORY    OF    PURTON 

in  Purton, 1  and  in  the  later  Inquisition  we  find  that  "  William 
Digges  held  in  Purton  .  .  .  two  grounds,  called  Sissells 
hills,  and  forty  acres  of  arable  lying  in  Battlefeeld,  alias 
Bettlefeeld." 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Pedley  are  well  known  in  the  neighbourhood, 
having  moved  here  from  Latton  some  years  ago. 

Mrs.  Sayer  lives  at  Longcroft.  Her  husband,  the  late 
Captain  Sayer,  took  a  leading  part  in  Purton  village  in  bygone 
days. 

Mrs.  Charlton 2  and  her  daughters  live  at  "  Hillside,"  and  are 
interested  in  all  social  work. 

Mrs.  and  the  Misses  Redman,  at  Churchfield  Lodge,  are 
interested  in  nursing  and  Foreign  Missions. 

Red  House  with  its  charming  grounds  is  the  home  of  Miss 
Russell.  She  has  been  for  two  years  the  Commandant  of  a 
Convalescent  Home  for  wounded  soldiers  at  Reading,  having 
also  helped  to  run  a  canteen  there. 

The  principal  landowners  in  Purton  are  James  Henry 
Sadler,  D.L.,  Mr.  C.  D.  Hey  cock  and  Mrs.  Story -Maskelyne. 

The  population  in  1911  was  2,645  in  the  ecclesiastical 
parish. 

There  is  a  Congregational  Chapel,  built  in  1829,  with  120 
sittings,  and  there  are  also  Wesleyan  and  Primitive  Methodist 
Chapels. 

Mrs.  Plummer,  who  lives  in  the  Lower  Square,  used  during 
her  husband's  lifetime  to  live  at  the  Manor  House.  One  of  her 
sons  is  now  serving  his  country  in  her  hour  of  need. 

Mr.  A.  H.  Dunn  is  the  licensed  lay  reader  of  the  parish, 
and  he  officiates  every  Sunday  in  Braydon  Chapel  of  Ease. 
He  is  a  gifted  preacher,  and  in  peace  time  held  a  weekly 
Bible  Class  for  men  at  the  Institute,  which  was  largely 
attended. 

The  Children's  Home  was  built  in  1914  by  the  Guardians 
in  the  form  of  two  labourers'  cottages,  so  that  if  necessary  in 
later  years  the  building  could  be  easily  divided,  and  used  to 
accommodate  two  families.  At  present  (1917)  sixteen  children 
are  being  trained  there  to  become  useful  citizens. 

i  Wilts  Inq.  P.M.,  ch.  i.,  p.  302. 
?  A  daughter  of  Admiral  Dent,  by  his  wife,  the  Lady  Selina  Hastings. 

89 


THE    STORY    OF    PURTON 

There  is  a  saying  that  "  you  can  live  as  long  as  you  like 
in  Purton,"  on  account  of  its  excellent  reputation  for  health 
and  freedom  from  infectious  complaints.  There  does  seem  to 
be  something  in  it,  as  great  ages  are  attained,  accompanied  by 
wonderful  health  and  strength.  Our  late  organist,  Mrs.  Smith, 
who  recently  retired,  had  occupied  her  post  for  fifty  years, 
and  was  presented  on  her  retirement  with  a  purse  of  sovereigns 
by  the  parishioners. 

A  well-known  figure  in  Purton  till  recently  was  "  Curly  Tom  " 
(see  p.  59).  He  used  to  say  that  his  father  and  mother  had 
brought  him  to  London  from  Norfolk  as  a  baby.  Anyhow, 
he  seems  to  have  drifted  down  to  Wiltshire,  and  for  many  years 
had  a  regular  beat  as  a  pedlar,  tramping  round  to  dispose  of 
his  wares  to  the  willing  country-folk. 

He  used  to  say  that  "  people  in  his  class  "  learned  to  read 
and  write  in  his  young  days,  as  they  found  it  useful  to  their 
customers,  who  were  unable  to  do  so.  He  was  taught  by  having 
sand  spread  on  the  top  of  a  wooden  box,  and  when  smooth 
the  boy  was  given  a  skewer,  and  with  it  learned  to  form  and 
read  letters  on  the  sand.  (This  might  prove  a  valuable 
suggestion  to  the  Education  Authorities  if  the  present  scarcit}' 
of  paper  should  become  acute.) 

One  felt  he  was  one  who  might  have  made  a  better  thing 
of  life  had  the  chance  come  his  way,  as  both  in  appearance  and 
manner  he  was  superior  to  what  one  expects  from  such  circum 
stances.  For  many  a  year  he  tramped  the  country  round,  but  at 
last  the  years  began  to  weigh  upon  him,  for  there  is  no  cheating 
old  Time  after  all,  and  he  used  to  come  to  the  Workhouse 
for  the  winter  months,  and  when  the  days  got  longer,  and 
the  trees  put  on  their  spring  attire,  "  Curly  Tom  "  would  make 
his  appearance  as  usual  before  the  Guardians,  saying,  "  Good 
morning,  Gentlemen,  I  want  to  ask  your  help."  Five  shillings 
was  accordingly  always  given  to  him,  and  with  this  he  sallied 
forth  to  buy  his  stock-in-trade  of  pins,  needles,  bootlaces,  etc. ; 
and  so  well  did  he  understand  the  wants  of  his  district,  that 
by  his  trading  he  was  able  to  entirely  support  himself,  until 
the  shortening  days  and  chilly  nights  warned  him  back  to  his 
winter  quarters  in  the  Workhouse. 

Born  nine  years  before  Waterloo,  and  at  the  age  of  104  only 
a  little  deaf,  he  was  often  to  be  seen  sauntering  along  enjoying 

go 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

his  pipe,  which  his  friends  saw  to  it  should  not  want  for  tobacco, 
and  no  one  enjoyed  a  cup  of  tea  more  than  he  did,  given  with 
a  friendly  word  of  greeting.  "  That  is  tea ! "  he  used  to  say 
with  great  appreciation.  The  writer  saw  him  at  the  point 
of  death,  and  his  extraordinarily  aged  appearance  then  showed 
that  Time  had  not  forgotten  him,  although  his  life  had  reached 
so  far  beyond  man's  allotted  span. 


CHAPTER   XII 

PARISH   LAWS,    1733 — SEVERE   PENALTIES 

IN  a  quaint  old  volume  called  Parish  Laws,  published  in 
the  year  1733,  there  are  some  curious  accounts  of  the  duties  of 
Churchwardens,  as  "  besides  the  care  of  the  repairs  of  the  Church 
seats,  Churchwardens  are  to  see  that  all  the  parishioners  duly 
resort  to  their  Parish  Church,  and  there  continue  during  the  time 
of  Divine  Service,  to  permit  no  Person  to  cover  his  head  in 
the  Church,  except  he  have  some  infirmity,  and  then  with  a 
cap  ;  not  to  permit  any  to  stand  idle,  walk,  talk,  or  make  any 
noise  in  the  Church,  or  to  contend  about  places,  and  to  chastise 
disorderly  boys,  etc.,  also  to  keep  excommunicated  out  of  the 
Church,  and  to  allow  no  interludes,  plays,  feasts,  Church  Ales, 
Musters,  markets,  temporal  Courts  or  Leets,  Lay  Juries,  or  any 
other  profane  usage  to  be  permitted  or  allowed  therein,  also  on 
Sacrament  days  :  to  observe  they  that  absent  themselves  from 
it,  and  present  them  for  the  same  at  the  next  Visitation.  Also 
to  see  that  all  behave  themselves  orderly,  soberly  and  reverently ; 
kneeling  at  the  prayers,  standing  at  the  Belief,  bowing  at  the 
name  of  Jesus,  sitting  or  standing  quietly  and  attentively  at 
the  reading  of  the  Scriptures." 

One  shilling  was  the  fine  imposed  by  the  Justices  for  each 
of  the  above  offences,  and  also  for,  "  ist,  Absenting  from  Church, 
2nd,  Not  abiding  there  till  service  and  sermon  were  ended, 
3rd,  For  not  behaving  orderly  and  soberly  while  there."  Five 
shillings  was  the  fine  for  doing  "  any  worldly  work  or  business 
on  Sunday,"  but  for  trading  or  travelling  on  the  Lord's  Day  the 
fine  was  twenty  shillings.  If  any  butcher  killed  on  Sunday 
six  shillings  and  sixpence  was  the  forfeit,  and  for  meeting  at 
bull-baitings,  bear-baitings,  interludes  or  Common  Plays  three 
shillings  and  fourpence  was  the  fine  exacted.  The  money 
derived  from  these  sums  to  be  applied  to  the  relief  of  the  poor ; 
failing  ability  to  pay,  the  offenders  were  to  be  put  in  the  stocks. 
Churchwardens  also  had  as  part  of  their  duties  to  visit  frequently 
on  Sunday  ale-houses,  and  if  they  found  any  tippling  to  make 

92 


THE    STORY    OF    PURTON 

them  pay  three  shillings  and  fourpence  and  the  master  of  the 
house  ten  shillings,  also  five  shillings  for  using  trade,  and  if  in 
Church  hours,  another  shilling  each  all  round  ;  and  then  all 
was  not  forgiven,  for  they  were  to  be  presented  by  the  Church- 
wardens at  the  next  Visitation.  Their  powers  also  allowed  the 
Churchwardens  "  to  present  the  Minister  if  he  was  not  constantly 
resident  for  doing  his  duty,  or  for  leading  a  disorderly  or 
irregular  life."  However,  if  the  parson  was  a  proper  man,  he 
was  well  protected,  as  the  offence  of  disturbing  or  abusing 
him  while  doing  his  duty  was  a  serious  matter.  £10  for 
the  first  offence,  £20  for  the  second,  and  for  the  third  the 
offender  should  forfeit  all  his  goods  and  chattels  and  be 
imprisoned  for  life.  No  cursing  or  swearing  was  allowed,  one 
shilling  or  two  shillings  was  the  fine,  and  if  under  sixteen  to 
be  whipped. 

The  fine  for  not  coming  to  Church  was  £20,  and  if  continued 
for  a  year  £20  for  every  month  and  two  parts  in  three  of  his 
or  her  estate,  and  to  produce  two  sureties  in  £200  for  future  good 
behaviour.  Anyone  who  "is  assaulted  or  beaten  in  Church, 
is  not  to  give  back  blows  in  his  own  defence,  as  he  may  do  in 
another  place."  For  striking  or  laying  hands  on  anyone  in  the 
churchyard  excommunication  was  imposed,  "  but  if  with  a 
weapon,  or  if  only' drawn  for  that  purpose,  to  lose  one  of  his 
ears."  The  poor  are  described  as  of  two  classes  :  ist,  those  who 
are  willing  to  work  but  are  not  able  ;  2nd,  those  who  are  able 
to  work  but  are  not  willing.  These  latter  could  be  sent  by  two 
justices  to  the  House  of  Correction.  Churchwardens  and 
overseers  could  also  be  consigned  to  this  terrible  place  for 
"refusing  to  account,  there  to  remain  till  they  will."  Boy 
paupers  were  apprenticed  till  the  age  of  twenty-four  and  girls 
till  twenty-one  or  marriage  ;  no  apprentice  might  be  older 
than  fifteen  "  when  first  bound."  Rogues  and  idle  people 
were  to  be  set  to  work,  and  "  moderately  whipped  "  or  have 
"fetters  and  gives"  put  on  them.  Persons  receiving  parish 
relief  were  obliged  to  wear  a  badge  on  their  right  shoulder  sleeve, 
on  refusal  may  be  sent  to  the  House  of  Correction  for  twenty- 
one  days  at  most,  to  be  whipped  and  kept  to  hard  labour  ; 
formerly  they  were  burned  on  the  left  shoulder.  Boys  could 
be  apprenticed  to  sea  service  being  ten  years  old  and  upwards 
if  likely  to  be  a  charge  to  the  parish,  who  begged  alms,  or  whose 

93 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

parents  were  chargeable,  the  apprenticeship  to  continue  till 
twenty-one  years  was  reached. 

The  parish  laws  for  labourers  then  were  that  "  those  that 
work  by  day  or  week  shall  continue  at  work  betwixt  the  middle 
of  March  and  the  middle  of  September  from  5  in  the  morning 
till  between  7  and  8  at  night,  except  2  hours  for  breakfast, 
dinner  and  drinking,  and  £  an  hour  for  sleeping,"  all  the  rest  of 
the  year  from  twilight  to  twilight,  on  pain  to  have  "  one  penny 
defalked  out  of  their  wages  for  every  houi's  absence."  All 
artificers  "  had  to  work  in  haytime  and  harvest  on  pain  of  2  days 
and  i  night  in  the  stocks,  or  403.  forfeit." 

Beggars  and  vagabonds  got  a  short  shrift.  "  Anyone  found 
wandering,  begging  and  misordeiing  himself  ...  be  ordered 
to  be  openly  whipped,  until  his  or  her  body  be  bloody,  or  be 
sent  to  the  House  of  Correction,  and  be  kept  at  hard  labor  at 
the  discretion  of  the  justices."  Those  thought  to  be  specially 
dangerous  got  even  worse  treatment,  for  they  "  shall  cause  him 
to  be  whipped  three  market  days  successively."  No  person 
likely  to  live  by  begging  could  be  brought  into  England  by  a 
master  of  a  ship  from  Ireland,  Isle  of  Man,  Jersey,  Guernsey, 
Scilly.  £5  was  the  fine  for  bringing  such  a  one,  the  intruder 
was  to  be  openly  whipped  and  sent  back  to  where  he  came 
from.  We  have  all  heard  of  hue  and  cry,  but  one  hardly  realises 
that  not  two  hundred  years  ago  a  constable  could  call  on 
parishioners,  after  describing  a  felon,  to  assist  in  the  pursuit, 
and  so  on  from  constable  to  constable,  town  to  town,  and 
county  to  county.  Pursuers  had  the  right  to  search  suspected 
houses  and  persons,  and  carry  the  latter  to  the  justices  to  be 
examined.  Inhabitants  of  any  hundred  where  hue  and  cry  was 
made  and  neglecting  to  pursue  "  shall  answer  of  moiety  of  the 
Damages "  as  a  penalty,  and  also  be  "  grievously  fined  and 
imprisoned." 


94 


CHAPTER    XIII 

LYDIARD    MANOR    HOUSE — MR.    MACKNIGHT — A   GHOST    STORY — 
THE  SMOCK-FROCK — "GRUBBING  THE   MOOTS  " 

ONE  mile  due  south  of  Purton  lies  the  picturesque  village  of 
Lydiard  Millicent. 

Behind  the  beautiful  church  are  the  ruins  of  Lydiard  Manor, 
overgrown  with  ivy  and  the  home  of  bats  and  owls. 

This  house  has  an  interesting  history,  and  was  built  by  one 
Robert  Turgis  in  the  year  1459.  For  four  hundred  long  years 
it  stood  there  defying  time  and  weather,  until  the  fatal  night 
came  when  fire  destroyed  in  a  few  hours  its  roof,  floors,  etc., 
leaving  the  walls  standing  as  a  melancholy  reminder  of 
the  past  centuries,  when  it  was  a  bright  and  beautiful 
dwelling. 

The  Webbes  had  bought  the  property  in  1576  from  Robert 
Turgis'  "  successors."  William  Webbe  was  a  Catholic,  and  was 
fined  for  harbouring  recusant  priests. 

The  description  given  by  Mr.  MacKnight  of  the  house  tells 
us  that  the  chapel  was  in  the  roof,  over  the  drawing-room. 
Behind  the  altar  was  a  panelled  door,  which  opened  into  two 
other  rooms  without  windows  ;  and  behind  the  panelled  door 
was  a  chimney-stack,  behind  which  two  men  could  be  easily 
concealed.  From  the  second  room  was  a  door  into  the  other 
wing  of  the  house,  the  exit  being  through  a  panel  like  a 
door  of  a  raised  cupboard,  and  by  this  it  was  possible  to 
go  through  other  rooms  to  a  staircase  leading  to  the  back  of 
the  house. 

It  would  seem  that  when  the  searching  party  surrounded 
the  house  the  priests  were  thus  concealed,  and  made  their  way 
out  into  the  wood,  where  in  a  small  clearing  the  foundations 
of  two  small  cottages  have  been  discovered,  which  would  afford 
them  shelter.  They  were  not  taken,  but  it  is  believed  that 
information  was  subsequently  extorted  which  led  to  the 
conviction  for  harbouring  these  plotters  against  the  Government. 

95 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

The  fine  appears  to  have  crippled  the  estate,  which  was 
afterwards  mortgaged,  and  in  1714  Sir  John  Askew,  the 
mortgagee,  foreclosed  and  entered  into  possession.  He  built 
the  stabling  and  the  barn,  and  laid  out  the  garden  on  an 
extensive  scale  ;  but  he  is  said  to  have  speculated  in  the  South 
Sea  Bubble  scheme,  and  to  have  been  unable  to  complete  his 
designs,  of  which  more  anon. 

The  Rev.  William  MacKnight  was  born  in  the  year  1816. 
A  member  of  an  ancient  Scottish  family,  he  began  his  life  in 
Wiltshire  as  tutor  to  the  sons  of  the  Earl  of  Suffolk  at  Charlton 
Park. 

From  thence  he  moved  to  Purton,  and  with  five  pupils  lived 
there  for  a  couple  of  years,  before  taking  up  his  residence  at 
Lydiard  Millicent. 

While  living  at  Purton,  he  wrote  to  his  fiancee,  Miss  Davis : 
"  By  the  by,  this  is  a  very  appetizing  place.  My  housekeeper 
says,  '  Dear,  dear,  how  much  they  (the  pupils)  do  eat,  sir,  they 
must  be  ill.'  She  has  actually  persuaded  one  of  them  to  take 
medicine  for  fear" 

Mr.  MacKnight  loved  his  occupation,  and  threw  his  whole 
heart  into  the  work  of  training  his  pupils  for  the  stern  battle 
of  life.  He  writes  :  "  I  am  fairly  one  of  them, x  not  a  vestige 
of  their  tutor  left."  One  good  rule  he  made  :  "  I  never  if  I 
can  help  it  correct  before  people,  it  is  most  unwise  to  do  so." 
Sometimes  he  had  very  unpromising  material  to  work  upon, 
for  he  writes  of  one  as  "  the  veriest  dolt  and  lump  I  ever  saw, 
.  .  .  cannot  find  his  place  in  the  Greek  Testament,  does  not 
know  whether  his  father  was  ever  at  College,  does  not  know 
anything,  in  short  .  .  .  what  am  I  to  do  with  such  an 
article  ?  His  family  want  him  to  go  to  College  and  be  a  lawyer  ! 
I  think  I  must  try  to  be  delivered  from  him  if  I  can  .  .  . 

G is  just  the  reverse,  I  call  him  '  Daydawn  '  and  the 

other  '  Midnight.' " 

It  was  in  December,  1851,  that  Mr.  MacKnight  left  Purton 
for  Lydiard  Manor,  which  he  was  to  transform  into  a  bright 
and  beautiful  home.  He  married  Miss  Davis  in  the  same  year 
at  Bibury,  and  for  many  years  lived  a  happy  life  with  his  pupils 
in  his  glorious  garden.  As  already  mentioned,  this  famous 

1  Amongst  his  pupils  were  General  Sir  Redvers  Buller,  Lord  Frederick 
Leveson-Gower,  Mr.  J.  H.  Sadler,  etc. 

96 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

garden  had  been  laid  out  in  Queen  Anne's  day,  by  Sir  John 
Askew,  with  yew  hedges,  grass  walks  and  flower  beds  in  a 
mathematical  scheme,  using  the  multiple  of  five,  the  flower 
beds  five  feet  from  the  yew  hedges,  and  the  beds  themselves 
five  feet  wide. 

Of  course  there  is  a  ghost,  and  Madam  Blunt  is  said  still 
to  "  walk  "  in  the  old  garden.  Six  bundles  of  trees  were  brought 
from  Nova  Scotia  in  1780  by  one  Captain  Welch,  of  the  Royal 
Welch  Fusiliers,  and  beneath  the  shade  of  this  fine  timber  the 
pupils  of  Mr.  MacKnight  worked  and  played. 1 

He  has  left  an  account  of  a  sudden  and  very  terrible  storm 
of  wind  which  took  place  on  October  3ist,  1873.  He  describes 
how  "  the  tall  spruces  lashed  about  as  though  by  some  terrific 
force  made  into  playthings,"  and  how  "  one  elm  after  another 
crashed  to  earth,  one  of  which  in  falling  tore  out  the  end  of  the 
gate-lodge."  How  "  the  storm  apparently  struck  the  ground, 
which  was  torn  up  as  though  by  a  steam  plough." 

After  the  storm  came  a  water-spout,  which  washed  up  to 
its  foundation  the  metal  on  the  Purton  Road.  But  the 
strangest  thing  of  all  was  that  it  all  took  place  on  October  $ist, 
and  that  Madam  Blunt 's  tree  was  spared  amidst  the  general 
havoc. 

This  is  the  ghost  story.  Madam  Blunt  was  born  Miss 
Askew,  and  from  an  old  letter  dated  Wootton  Bassett,  November 
Qth,  1764,  we  learn  that  she  was  engaged  to  a  young  clergyman, 
and  everything  was  arranged  by  her  parents  for  her  marriage. 
She,  however,  was  in  the  habit  of  trying  her  blandishments 
on  others  besides  her  fiance,  and  this  so  preyed  on  the  young 
man's  mind  that  it  affected  his  brain.  One  night 2  there  was  a 
dinner  party,  and  one  of  her  favoured  swains  was  present,  as 
well  as  the  unfortunate  lover.  No  one  knew  exactly  what 
occurred,  but  later  in  the  evening,  in  the  dark,  the  three  met, 
there  was  a  struggle,  and  the  clergyman,  who  it  is  thought  had 
dined  not  wisely  but  too  well,  drew  a  pistol  and  shot  himself, 
although  the  guilty  pair  did  all  they  could  to  prevent  him. 
In  the  old  rectory  the  marks  of  blood  and  brains  could  be  seen 
on  the  wall  till  it  was  pulled  down  in  1857. 

Miss  Askew  married  Colonel  Blunt  in  1768,  and  seven  years 

1  Recollections  and  Letters  of  Rev.  W.  MacKnight,  by  E.  L.  Thomson. 
*  October  3ist. 

97 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

after  his  death,  on  inheriting  the  Manor,  went  to  live  there 
(in  1811).  She  saw  few  or  no  neighbours,  but  the  gipsies  knew 
her  weU,  and  were  always  welcomed  to  sing  and  dance  before 
the  house.  She  enclosed  a  piece  of  the  garden  called  "  The 
Slopes,"  keeping  the  key  herself,  and  only  allowing  the  gardener 
to  enter  in  her  company.  For  hours  daily,  until  her  death  in 
1822,  she  would  walk  up  and  down  in  this  garden  quite  alone, 
and  people  say  that  to  this  day  she  still  "  walks,"  and  that  on 
the  3ist  of  October,  when  night  falls,  she  may  be  seen  there 
seated  under  Madam  Blunt's  tree. 

People  at  Lydiard  tell  that  when  the  will  was  opened  it 
was  found  that  Madam  Blunt  had  given  directions  that  her 
coffin  was  to  be  carried  seven  times  round  this  special  tree, 
which  folks  say  had  been  given  to  her  in  a  flower-pot  years 
ago  by  a  well-loved  swain,  and  her  directions  were  accordingly 
carried  out — seven  times  the  solemn  procession  made  the  circle 
of  the  tree  before  laying  her  remains  to  rest  in  the  old  churchyard 
adjoining.  But  in  the  will  there  was  more  than  this  simple 
order. 

History  says  that  one  evening  a  party  of  friends  were 
gathered  together  at  the  Sun  Inn  at  Lydiard,  and  Madam 
Blunt's  health  not  being  very  good  at  the  time,  the  question 
arose,  "  If  anything  happens  to  the  old  lady,  who  will  have 
the  Manor  ?  "  One  Mrs.  Kibble  white,  just  in  for  her  husband's 
pint  of  beer,  volunteered  the  surprising  information  :  "  You  11 
see,  our  Jim  will  be  lord  of  the  Manor  when  the  old  lady  dies." 
Her  remark  was  received  with  incredulity  and  disdain,  and 
Richard  Parsons,  Madam  Blunt's  servant,  said,  "  Your  Jim — 
never  likely — as  likely  as  me."  "  You  '11  see,"  repeated  Mrs. 
Kibblewhite,  "  I  know  a  thing  or  two — the  Manor  's  sold  and 
bought  already — good  night."  Home  went  the  good  lady  and 
told  her  husband  what  had  occurred.  "  There  now,  you  'ave 
done  it,  you  'ave  spoiled  it  all,  and  our  Jim  will  never  be  lord 
of  the  Manor."1  And  he  never  was,  for  Richard  Parsons  told 
Madam  Blunt  the  whole  story.  (It  seemed  that  her  son,  Sir 
Charles  Blunt,  had  sold  his  succession  to  James  Kibblewhite 
for  a  sum  of  money.  This  happened  in  June,  1817.)  Madam 
Blunt  thereupon  sent  for  her  agent,  Mr.  Bewley,  collected  all 
the  papers  and  documents,  which  were  packed  into  two  saddle- 

1  From  Lydiard  Manor,  by  Rev.  W.  MacKnight. 
98 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

bags,  and  off  she  rode  on  a  pillion  behind  him  to  catch  the 
nearest  London  coach.  This  old  lady  of  seventy-one  years 
succeeded  in  her  errand,  and  the  story  went  "  that  Lydiard 
was  bought  and  sold  three  times  in  one  day  in  the  streets  of 
London."  Thus  was  it  explained  :  "  On  July  ist  and  2nd,  1817, 
there  was  a  lease  and  release  by  Mary  Blunt  to  Samuel  Waller 
in  trust  for  her  and  her  heirs.  July  3rd  and  4th,  1817,  a  lease 
and  release  by  Samuel  Waller  to  Mary  Blunt  and  her  heirs — 
that  is  to  whom  she  should  choose,  not  Sir  Charles  Blunt."  1 
And  so  it  fell  out  that  "our  Jim"  was  never  "lord  of  the 
Manor."  He  tried  to  claim  it  with  a  lawsuit,  but  lost  that  and 
probably  any  other  fortune  he  was  possessed  of. 

Anyhow,  there  was  no  luck  with  the  place  as  far  as  Madam 
Blunt's  heirs  were  concerned,  and  for  nine  years  it  stood  empty 
and  unoccupied. 

In  1841  it  was  bought  by  Mr.  Streeten,  and  then  sold  to 
Mr.  Story-Maskelyne  in  1872.  It  is  now  again  derelict,  and 
owing  to  a  curious  will  no  one  can  rebuild  the  house2  and 
occupy  the  old-world  garden,  though  many  have  wished 
to  do  so,  and  to  restore  it  to  its  ancient  beauty  and 
charm. 

Writing  of  the  smock-frock  in  1852,  Mr.  MacKnight  says  : — 
"  The  parishioners  still  came  to  Church  in  their  white  smock- 
frocks,  which  were  here  and  there  varied  with  a  blue  one,  with 
its  pattern  in  white  thread  conspicuous  on  the  breast."  There 
was  a  great  draught  in  the  Church,  owing  to  leaks  in  the  old 
oak  roof,  and  he  adds  :  "  The  wind  swept  in  gusts  over  us," 
and  one  day,  he  writes,  "  a  good  many  smocks  being  present, 
one  by  one,  for  his  protection,  drew  out  his  red  pocket- 
handkerchief  and  threw  it  over  his  head.  Then  I  had  a  not 
unpleasant  variety  of  colour  before  me,  the  white,  blue  and  red. 
It  was  a  most  picturesque  group  of  a  generation  that  is  rapidly 
passing  away,  and  soon  to  be  seen  no  more.  My  poor  neigh- 
bour," he  adds,  "  Mrs.  Ody,  who  earned  her  living  by  adorning 
the  smock-frock  with  her  handiwork,  complained  hi  1860 
that  where  she  once  made  a  score  she  did  not  now  make 
one." 

1  Lydiard  Manor,  by  Rev.  W.  MacKnight. 
*  It  was  completely  gutted  by  fire  some  years  ago. 

99 


THE   STORY   OF   PURTON 

"Grubbing  the  moots,"  in  the  old  Wiltshire  dialect,  is  still 
practised  in  these  parts  when  work  is  slack  during  the  winter ; 
and  very  cleverly  are  the  roots  of  fallen  trees  chipped  out 
by  practised  hands,  a  benefit  to  the  owner,  who  wishes  to  be 
rid  of  the*^msightly  "moot,"  and  a  help  in  firing  to  one  in 
need  of  it. 


100 


CHAPTER  XIV 

RED  LODGE — MR.  SADLER'S  RECOLLECTIONS OLD  COINS — 

"  YOU  COME  FROM  PURTON  " 

RED  LODGE,  the  residence  of  Mr.  John  Edward  Ward,  is  situated 
in  the  north-west  portion  of  Purton,  now  separated  off  into 
the  civil  parish  of  Braydon.  This  district  was  not  within  the 
ancient  bounds  of  Braden  Forest  as  given  in  the  Perambulation 
of  28  Ed.  III.,  although  by  the  encroachments  of  the  early 
Norman  kings  it  had  been  brought  within  its  limits. 

It  was  no  doubt  covered  with  woods,  and  in  a  later 
Perambulation  is  described  as  "late  ye  woods  of  Henry  de 
Lacey  Erie  of  Lincolne." 

From  the  Inquisition  P.M.  of  this  nobleman,  dated  4  Ed.  II., 
it  appears  that  he  held  them  as  part  of  his  Manor  of  Aldebourne, 
which  came  to  him  as  the  inheritance  of  his  wife,  Margaret,  and 
"  that  it  belongs  to  the  Earldom  of  Sarum,"  which  he  also  held. 
His  sole  daughter,  Alice,  though  thrice  married,  left  no  issue, 
and  on  her  death  the  vast  estates  which  she  inherited  from 
her  father  passed  to  the  brother  of  her  first  husband,  Henry, 
Earl  of  Lancaster.  Thus  this  property  fell  into  the  hands  of 
the  Crown.  When  early  in  the  reign  of  Charles  I.  Braden  Forest 
was  disafforested  the  land  claimed  by  the  Crown  as  royal 
demesne  and  Duchy  of  Lancaster  estates  was  let  on  lease  to 
Philip  Jacobson,  the  King's  Jeweller,  and  Edward  Sewster, 
with  rights  to  grub  up  the  woods,  convert  the  land  to  tillage, 
to  erect  iron  works,  etc. 

At  first  there  were  serious  disturbances,  but  no  doubt  in 
time  things  settled  down.  Later  the  Crown  divided  its  estates 
into  three  portions  and  leased  them  for  a  number  of  years : 
firstly,  to  James  Duart,  the  principal  residence  being  called 
Slyfield  Lodge,  within  the  forest ;  the  second  portion  to  Philip 
Jacobson,  the  principal  residence  being  Statton  Lodge,  without 

101 


the  forest ;  and  the  third  being  the  Great  Lodge  to  Roger  Nott, 
the  principal  residence  within  the  Forest. 

From  this  it  appears  that  Hatton  Lodge  was  the  name  of  the 
principal  residence  on  the  Crown  property  held  under  the  Duchy 
of  Lancaster. 

The  Jacobson  family  lost  their  interest  in  it  early  in  the 
eighteenth  century,  and  in  1729  the  Nott  family  obtained  a 
lease  of  it,  but  their  residence,  in  an  old  map  of  1733  described 
as  Nott's  House,  was  the  Great  Lodge,  now  called  Ravens  Hurst 
House  Lodge.  In  the  beginning  of  the  nineteenth  century  the 
Crown  disposed  of  all  its  Braydon  property,  and  a  farm  called 
the  Duchy  Ragg,  in  Cricklade  St.  Sampson,  was  sold  to  the 
Earl  of  Clarendon,  from  whom  it  passed  later  to  Mr.  Joseph 
Neeld.  In  Andrews'  and  Drury's  map  of  1773  both  the  White 
Lodge  and  Red  Lodge  are  marked  in  this  district,  and  the  name 
Hattori  Lodge  has  disappeared  ;  but  there  can  be  little  doubt 
that  this  is  the  ancient  name  of  the  present  Red  Lodge. 

As  already  mentioned,  the  large  Red  Lodge  estate  (3,800 
acres)  was  purchased  by  Joseph  Neeld  in  1829,  not  all  at  once, 
but  bit  by  bit,  and  was  mostly  corn-growing  land.  After 
1829  the  Neelds  gradually  laid  it  down  in  grass,  and  planted 
the  woods  between  1830-40,  which  are  extensive.  A  coach 
road  was  made,  which  leads  us  to  suppose  that  the  building 
of  a  mansion  was  contemplated. 

Sir  Algernon  Neeld  lived  for  a  short  time  at  Red  Lodge, 
but  it  was  not  till  1902,  when  Mr.  Ward  acquired  the  property, 
that  the  old  Ranger's  house  was  altered  and  considerably 
added  to. 

The  architects  were  the  late  Mr.  Seddon,  of  Westminster, 
and  Mr.  Jones,  of  Gloucester.  The  gardens,  which  are  celebrated 
in  the  neighbourhood,  were  designed  by  Mr.  White,  of  Victoria 
Street,  Westminster. 

Long,  closely-shaven  grass  walks  with  herbaceous  borders, 
and  flanked  with  rambler  roses  gracefully  trained  on  posts, 
meet  the  eye  on  all  sides,  and  there  is  a  beautiful  rock  garden 
with  many  treasures  carefully  tended  therein.  In  springtime 
the  daffodils  are  a  glory,  once  seen  not  easily  forgotten, 
stretching  in  a  blaze  of  yellow  right  across  the  park  to  the  woods 
beyond.  Both  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Ward  are  keen  gardeners,  and 
Captain  Harold  Ward  has  inherited  his  father's  taste,  being 

102 


THE    STORY    OF    PURTON 

an  enthusiast  on  rock  work.  He  is  now  in  France  serving  as 
Adjutant  to  the  Wiltshire  Yeomanry. 1  He  is  a  member  of 
the  Inner  Temple  and  a  practising  barrister,  and  married 
Miss  Grice-Hutchinson  in  1913. 

Mr.  Ward  is  the  son  of  Mr.  John  Ward,  of  Whittington, 
Salop,  who  was  partly  instrumental  in  constructing  most  of 
the  Welsh  railways. 

Until  Mr.  Ward  retired  from  business  in  1896  he  practised 
as  a  solicitor  at  Newport  (Mon.),  and  acted  for  numerous 
ironworks  and  colliery  companies  in  South  Wales.  He  is  a 
member  of  the  Reform  Club  and  J.P.  for  the  county,  and 
represents  Braydon  in  the  Cricklade  and  Wootton  Bassett 
Union. 

Mrs.  Ward  has  organised  and  successfully  carried  out  a 
weekly  working  party  for  St.  John  Ambulance  during  the  war, 
and  has  sent  large  consignments  of  hospital  requisites  regularly 
as  a  result  of  these  efforts. 

Miss  Meriol  Goodwin,  Mrs.  Ward's  niece,  spent  a  long  time 
nursing  the  soldiers  in  the  Bath  Military  Hospital. 


Mr.  J.  H.  Sadler  remembers  as  a  boy  the  different  services 
and  aspect  of  the  interior  of  our  interesting  old  Church.  At 
that  time,  some  sixty  years  ago,  the  music  was  supplied  by  flutes 
and  viols, 2  which,  after  much  tuning  and  blowing,  were  ready 
for  their  work.  The  performers  were  seated  in  a  gallery 
which  was  placed  over  the  west  entrance,  and  later  on  the 
organ,  which  was  obtained  by  the  energies  of  his  uncle, 
Mr.  W.  H.  Sadler,  stood  in  the  gallery  in  place  of  the  earlier 
band  of  musicians.  This  was  in  the  year  1851. 

The  galleries  ran  along  the  south  side  of  the  nave  and  in 
the  north  transept.  One  in  which  the  Sadler  family  sat  was 

1  Mentioned  in  Sir  D.  Haig's  despatches. 

2  The  "  flutes  and  viols "  must  have  been  highly  prized  by  our 
predecessors,  for  the  following  short  extract  from  the  late  Major  Prower's 
diary  proves  this  : — 

"  20th  July,  1851.     Sunday. 

"  Gallery  choir  ceased  to  sing  being  in  dudgeon  on  account  of  the 
organ  being  ordered." 


103 


THE    STORY    OF    PURTON 

approached  from  the  western  end  of  the  nave  by  a  spiral  stair- 
case. Behind  this  gallery  a  door,  which  must  have  been  a 
narrow  one,  had  its  place  in  a  portion  of  the  window  on  the  side 
next  the  south  porch  (then  the  vestry).  Steps  led  to  this 
gallery  from  outside.  Six  families  occupied  the  seats  in  this 
larger  gallery. 

The  three-decker  pulpit,  with  clerk's  desk,  stood  in  more  or 
less  the  centre  of  the  Church,  i.e.  in  front  of  the  second  pillar 
on  the  left  side  of  the  aisle.  Beside  this  was  the  large  square 
Purton  House  pew. 

There  is  an  interesting  fragment  of  oak  carving  on  the  back 
part  of  the  right  reading  desk,  and  part  of  one  of  the  old  galleries 
forms  the  counter  in  Mr.  Kempster's  shop. 

The  curious  sword  which  was  found  with  the  skeleton  in 
the  ancient  chapel  wall  was  bought  many  years  ago  by  Major 
Prower  from  a  man  at  Braydon,  in  whose  possession  it  then 
was. 

Colonel  Prower  has  kindly  promised  to  restore  it  to  its  rightful 
place,  the  Church  where  it  was  found.  It  will  form  an  interesting 
relic  in  the  Priest's  Room  Museum. 

Job  Morse  remembers  the  finding  of  the  skeleton  in  the 
wall.  He  was  present,  and  said  the  shape  of  a  form  was  there, 
but  blew  away  in  dust  when  the  air  got  in,  leaving  only  the 
bones. 

In  the  year  1839  a  man  named  Lloyd  visited  Wiltshire, 
and  carved  with  the  most  accurate  care  models  of  the  three 
churches,  Purton,  Wroughton  and  Clyffe  Pypard.  In  the 
models  the  interior  of  the  churches  is  exactly  reproduced.  The 
model  of  Purton  Church  is  now  in  the  possession  of  Miss  Prower, 
and  is  complete  even  to  the  green  frill  surrounding  the  square 
Purton  House  pew. 

With  regard  to  the  patron  saint,  a  curious  local  tradition 
ascribes  it  to  St.  Michael,  and  the  fact  that  the  village  feast  falls 
on  the  Sunday  within  the  octave  of  St.  Michael  seems  to  lend 
colour  to  this  view.  *  It  almost  seems  as  though  both  over  the 
building  and  dedication  of  our  Church  opinions  were  inclined 
to  differ  and  refuse  to  give  way  to  one  another  in  those  far-off 
times. 

When  the  old  vicarage  was  demolished    in  the  spring  of 

1  Wilts  Notes  and  Queries. 
104 


THE    STORY    OF    PURTON 

1913,  the  Rev.  J.  E.  Pugh  spent  many  hours  searching  for 
treasure  which  might  possibly  have  been  buried  beneath  the 
old  house.  The  dust  and  mess  was  horrible,  but  he  persevered 
with  the  help  of  a  large  sieve,  and  at  last  he  was  rewarded  by 
finding  four  coins  : — 

1.  Dated  George  II.,  cast  in  commemoration  of  the  peace, 
and    engraved,    "  Peace    nourishes    trade."     Britannia  seated, 
watching  a  ship  in  full  sail,  as  she  leans  upon  her  shield. 

2.  A  beautiful  little  coin  engraved,  "  Carolus.  D.G.M.A.G.C. 
Rit.  Fram.  F.  T.  Hip.  Rex." 

3.  A  very  roughly  made,  not  symmetrical,  coin  of  copper. 

4.  Silver,  so  worn  no  marks  legible. 

Mr.  Pugh  kindly  presented  his  find  to  the  proposed  Priest's 
Room  Museum.  Some  months  ago  the  bell-hanger,  Mr.  Doble, 
was  in  the  belfry  with  the  writer,  and  he  discovered  a  most 
curious  part  of  an  old  barrel-organ  of  which  no  one  living  had 
ever  heard.  It  revolves  on  pivots,  and  a  label  on  it  bears  the 
words,  "  End  of  second  Chant,"  showing  that  in  times  now  long 
forgotten  it  had  borne  its  part  in  the  services  of  the  Church. 
Some  carved  fragments  of  stone  were  also  found,  evidently 
part  of  a  former  niche.  As  already  stated,  the  floor  of  the  belfry 
was  in  a  terribly  worn  condition,  full  of  holes,  and  really 
very  unsafe.  This  has  now  been  thoroughly  restored  and 
strengthened,  which  was  very  necessary  for  the  safety  of  all 
concerned. 

There  is  a  curious  saying,  the  origin  of  which  is  wrapped  in 
mystery,  used  by  West-country  people  on  seeing  a  door  left 
open.  "  Oh,  you  come  from  Purton  ! "  is  said  to  the  offender. 
From  and  before  the  days  of  Dean  Swift  this  is  to  some  minds 
a  deadly  crime,  and  the  story  goes  that  a  servant  of  his,  having 
been  sent  to  a  distant  part  of  the  country  somewhere  in  Ireland, 
received  an  urgent  message  to  return. 

On  entering  the  crusty  old  Dean's  presence,  he  discovered 
the  sole  reason  for  his  recall  in  the  following  stern  order,  "  Shut 
the  door  !  "  Surely  we  may  be  forgiven  for  believing  that  the 
saying  with  regard  to  Purton  folk  may  have  originated  in  a 
hospitable  instinct  to  keep  an  open  friendly  door,  ever  offering 
to  the  traveller  a  welcome  within. 


105 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

The  writer  recently  met  a  lady  whose  son  was  fighting  in 
France,  and  he  had  written  home  saying  that  he  had  been  with 
some  soldiers  in  a  house,  and  one  had  left  the  room  and  forgotten 
to  close  the  door.  A  Cornishman  who  was  present  at  once 
called  out,  "  Oh,  you  come  from  Purton  ! "  "  What  do  you 
know  of  Purton  ?  "  asked  the  young  officer.  "  Oh,  I  don't 
know  where  the  place  is,  but  they  never  shut  the  doors  there  ! " 
was  the  reply. 


106 


CHAPTER    XV 

PURTON    FAIR — THE    BONFIRE — THE    PLAY    CLOSE — 
THE  BIND  HOUSE 

Purton  Fair 

THIS,  with  a  weekly  market  (held  on  Thursdays),  was  instituted 
in  1213  by  "  Royal  Charter  "  for  the  continual  support  of  a 
Chaplain  to  minister  in  the  Chapel  dedicated  to  St.  John  the 
Baptist  at  Purton.  It  was  to  commence  on  the  morning  of  the 
24th  of  June,  the  festival  of  the  patron  saint  of  the  Chapel,  and 
to  continue  for  one  day  only. 1  This  Chapel  appears  to  have 
been  quite  distinct  from  the  Church  itself,  and  exempt  from  the 
control  of  the  Vicar  of  the  parish.  There  is  mention  of  an 
Oratory  in  Purton,  built  about  this  date  by  Thomas  de  Peritone, 
which  seems  to  have  been  a  private  chapel  for  his  own  use, 
as  it  was  erected  "  infra  septa  curiae  suae  de  Peritone  ; "  and  the 
grant  of  the  Abbot  of  Malmesbury  of  complete  exemption 
from  the  mother  Church  at  Purton  for  this  Oratory,  on  condition 
that  the  said  Thomas  would  "  undertake  that  the  said  Church 
should  not  be  the  loser  in  any  manner  there  from,"  rather  inclines 
one  to  think  the  Oratory  and  private  chapel  were  on  eand  the 
same  building. 

In  Hone's  Everyday  Book  the  following  account  of  Purton 
Fair  is  written  by  one  Charles  Tomlinson,  which  is  given  in  his 
own  words  : — 

Aug.  18.  1826. 

DEAR  SIR, 

Perhaps  you  or  some  of  your  readers  may  be  acquainted 
with  a  small  village  in  the  north  of  Wiltshire  called  Purton, 
very  pleasantly  situated,  and  dear  to  me,  from  a  child  :  it 
being  the  place  where  I  passed  nearly  all  my  boyish  days.  I 
went  to  school  there,  and  spent  many  a  pleasant  hour,  which 

1  This  does  not  agree  with  the  date  given  later. 
107 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

I  now  think  of  with  sincere  delight,  and  perhaps  you  will  not 
object  to  a  few  particulars  concerning  a  fair  held  there  on  the 
ist  of  May  and  the  3rd  of  September  in  every  year.  The  spot 
wheron  Purton  Fair  is  annually  celebrated,  is  a  very  pleasant 
little  green,  called  "  The  Close  "  or  play  ground,  belonging  to 
all  the  unmarried  men  in  the  village.  They  generally  assemble 
there  every  evening  after  the  toils  of  the  day,  to  recreate  them- 
selves with  a  few  pleasant  sports. 

Their  favorite  game  is  what  they  call  back-swording,  in 
some  places  called  single-stick.  Some  few  of  the  village  have 
the  good  fortune  to  be  adepts  in  the  noble  art,  and  are  held  up 
as  beings  of  transcendent  genius,  among  the  rustic  admirers  of 
that  noted  science.  They  have  one  whom  they  call  their 
umpire,  to  whom  all  disputes  are  referred,  and  he  always  with 
the  greatest  impartiality  decides  them.  About  six  years  ago, 
a  neighbouring  farmer,  whose  orchard  joins  the  Green,  thought 
that  his  orchard  might  be  greatly  improved.  He  accordingly 
set  to  work,  pulled  down  the  original  wall,  and  built  a  new  one, 
not  forgetting  to  take  in  several  feet  of  the  Green.  The  village 
felt  great  indignation  at  the  encroachment  and  resolved  to 
claim  their  rights.  They  waited  till  the  new  wall  should  be 
completed,  and  in  the  evening  of  the  same  day  a  party  of  about 
40  marched  to  the  spot,  armed  with  great  sticks,  pick-axes  etc. 
and  very  deliberately  commenced  breaking  down  the  wall. 
The  owner,  on  being  apprised  what  was  passing,  assembled  all 
his  domestics,  and  proceeded  to  the  spot,  where  a  furious 
scuffle  ensued,  several  serious  accidents  happened.  However, 
the  aggressor,  finding  he  could  not  succeed,  proposed  a  settle- 
ment :  he  entirely  removed  the  new  wall  on  the  following  day, 
and  returned  it  to  the  place  where  the  old  one  stood.  On  the 
morning  of  the  Fair,  as  soon  as  the  day  begins  to  dawn,  all  is 
bustle  and  confusion  throughout  the  village. 

Gipsies  are  first  seen  with  their  donkeys  approaching  the 
place  of  rendezvous  :  then  the  village  rustics  in  their  clean 
white  Sunday  smocks,  and  the  lasses  with  their  Sunday  Gowns, 
caps  and  ribands  hasten  to  the  Green  and  all  is  mirth  and  gaiety. 
I  cannot  pass  over  a  very  curious  character  who  used  regularly 
to  visit  the  Fair. 

I  was  told  by  an  ancient  inhabitant  that  he  had  done  so 
for  several  years.  He  was  an  old  gipsey,  who  has  attained 

108 


THE    STORY    OF    PURTON 

to  high  favour  with  the  younkers  of  the  place,  from  his  jocular 
habits,  curious  dress,  and  pleasant  stories  he  used  to  relate. 

He  called  himself  "  Corey  Dyne  "  or  "  Old  Corey,"  and 
those  are  the  only  names  by  which  he  was  known.  He  was 
accustomed  to  place  a  little  hat  on  the  ground,  from  the  centre 
of  which  rose  a  stick  about  three  feet  high,  whereon  he  put 
either  half  pence,  or  a  small  painted  box,  or  something  equally 
winning  to  the  eye  of  his  little  customers.  There  he  stood 
crying,  "  Now,  who  throws  with  poor  old  Corey — come  to  Corey 
— come  to  Corey  Dyne  :  only  a  halfpenny  a  throw,  and  only 
once  a  year."  A  boy  who  had  purchased  the  right  to  throw 
was  placed  about  three  feet  from  the  hat,  with  a  small  piece  of 
wood,  which  he  threw  at  the  article  on  the  stick,  and  if  it  fell 
in  the  hat  (which  by  the  by  it  was  almost  invariably  sure  to  do), 
the  thrower  lost  his  money  :  but  if  out  of  the  hat,  on  the  ground, 
the  article  on  the  stick  was  claimed  by  the  thrower. 

The  good  humour  of  Old  Corey,  generally  insured  him 
plenty  of  custom.  I  have  oftentimes  been  the  loser,  but  never 
the  winner.  I  believe  that  no  one  in  all  Purton  knows  from 
whence  he  is,  though  everybody  is  acquainted  with  him.  There 
was  a  large  show  on  the  place,  and  the  rustics  were  wont  to 
gaze  with  surprise  and  admiration.  The  chief  object  of  their 
wonder  was  our  "Punch."  They  could  not  form  the  slightest 
idea,  how  little  wooden  figures  could  talk  and  dance  about, 
they  supposed  that  there  must  be  some  hie  in  them.  I  well 
remember  that  I  once  undertook  to  set  them  right,  but  was 
laughed  at  and  derided  for  my  presumption  and  boast  of 
superior  knowledge.  There  was  also  another  very  merry 
fellow  who  frequented  the  Fair,  by  the  name  of  Mr.  Merriman. 

He  obtained  great  celebrity  by  giving  various  imitations  of 
birds,  etc.,  which  he  would  very  readily  do,  after  collecting  a 
sufficient  sum,  "  to  clear  his  pipe,"  as  he  used  to  say. 

He  then  began  with  the  nightingale,  which  he  imitated  very 
successfully,  then  followed  the  blackbird,  linnet,  gold  finch, 
robin,  geese,  and  ducks  on  a  rainy  morning,  turkeys,  etc.  etc. 
Then  perhaps,  after  collecting  more  money  to  clear  his  pipe, 
he  would  imitate  a  jackass,  or  a  cow.  His  excellent  imitation 
of  the  crow  of  a  cock  strongly  affected  the  risible  muscles  of 
his  auditors. 

The  amusements  lasted  till  nearly  midnight,  when  the  rustics 

109 


THE    STORY    OF    PURTON 

being  exhilarated  with  the  effects  of  good  strong  Wiltshire  ale, 
generally  part,  after  a  few  glorious  battles.  Next  day,  several 
champions  enter  the  field,  to  contest  the  right  to  several  prizes, 
which  are  laid  out  in  the  following  order  : 

ist.  A  new  smock. 

2nd.  A  new  hat,  with  a  blue  cockade. 

3rd.  An  inferior  hat,  with  a  white  cockade. 

4th.  A  still  inferior  hat,  without  a  cockade. 

A  stage  is  erected  on  the  Green  at  5  o'clock,  the  sport 
commences,  and  a  very  celebrated  personage,  whom  they  call 
their  "  umpshire  "  (umpire)  stands  high  above  the  rest  to  award 
the  prizes. 

The  candidates  are  generally  selected  from  the  best  players 
at  singlestick,  and,  on  this  occasion,  they  use  their  utmost  skill 
and  ingenuity,  and  are  highly  applauded  by  the  surrounding 
spectators.  I  must  not  forget  to  remark,  that  on  this  grand, 
and  to  them  interesting  day,  the  inhabitants  of  Purton  do  not 
combat  against  each  other — no — believe  me  Sir,  they  are  better 
acquainted  with  the  laws  of  Chivalry. 

Purton  produces  four  candidates,  and  a  small  village 
adjoining  called  Stretton1  sends  forth  four  more.  These 
candidates  are  representatives  of  the  Village  to  which  they 
respectively  belong,  and  they  who  lose  have  to  pay  all  the 
expenses  of  the  day,  but,  it  is  to  the  credit  of  the  sons  of  Purton 
I  record,  that  for  seven  successive  years,  their  candidates  have 
been  returned  victors. 

The  contest  generally  lasts  two  hours,  and,  after  that,  the 
ceremony  of  chairing  the  representatives  takes  place,  which  is 
thus  performed.  Four  chairs,  made  with  the  boughs  of  trees 
are  in  waiting,  and  the  conquerors  are  placed  therein,  and 
carried  through  the  village  with  every  demonstration  of  joy, 
the  inhabitants  shouting  "  Purton  for  ever  !  Huzza  my  boys  ! 
Huzza ! "  waving  boughs  over  their  triumphant  candidates. 
After  the  chairing  they  adjourn  to  the  village  public  house, 
and  spend  the  remainder  of  the  evening  as  before. 

The  3rd  day  is  likewise  a  day  of  bustle  and  confusion. 
All  repair  to  a  small  common  called  the  Cricket  ground,  and 
a  grand  match  takes  place  between  the  Purton  Club  and 

1  Now  Stratton,  so  called  from  the  Roman  Street. 
no 


THE   STORY   OF    PURTON 

Stretton   Club.      There   are   about    twenty    candidates    of    a 
side. 

The  vanquished  parties  pay  is.  each,  to  defray  the  expenses 
of  a  cold  collation,  which  is  previously  provided  in  a  pleasant 
little  copse,  adjoining  the  Cricket  ground,  and  the  remainder 
of  the  day  is  spent  convivially.  I  remember  hearing  the 
landlord  of  the  Public  House  Purton,  which  is  situated  on  one 
side  of  the  Green  observe  to  a  villager,  that  during  the  three 
days  merriment  he  had  sold  6,000  gallons  of  strong  beer  and 
ale.  The  man  of  course  doubted  him,  and  afterwards  very 
sarcastically  remarked  to  me. 

"  Its  just  as  asy  measter  for  he  to  zay  zix  thousand  as  dree 
thousand."  Does  not  this,  good  Mr.  Editor,  show  a  little 
genuine  Purton  wit  ? 

I  am  now  my  dear  Sir  finished  and  have  endeavoured  to 
describe  three  pleasant  days  spent  in  an  innocent  and  happy 
manner,  and  if  I  have  succeeded  in  affording  you  any  service, 
or  your  readers  any  amusement,  I  am  amply  rewarded. 

Allow  me  to  add  I  feel  such  an  affection  for  old  Purton, 
that  should  I  at  any  time  in  my  life  visit  Wiltshire,  I  would 
travel  twenty  miles  out  of  my  road  to  ramble  once  more  in  the 
haunts  of  my  boyhood. 

Believe  me,  my  dear  Sir, 

August  18.  1826. 

Since  writing  above,  I  have  received  a  letter  from  a  very 
particular  friend,  who  went  to  Purton  School  five  years,  to  whom 
I  applied  for  a  few  extra  particulars  respecting  the  Fair  etc. 
and  he  thus  writes  : — 
DEAR  C. 

You  seem  to  think  that  with  the  name,  I  still  retain  alj 
the  characteristics  and  predilections  of  a  "  hodge,"  and  there- 
fore, you  seek  to  me  for  information  respecting  the  back-sword 
playing,  Fair,  etc 

I  know  that  as  to  the  first,  it  is,  and  has  been  for  the  last  two 
years,  entirely  done  away  with,  as  the  principal  farmers  in  the 
place  "  done  like  it,"  and  so  dont  suffer  it  As  to  the  Fair, 
where  lads  and  lasses  meet  in  their  best  gowns,  and  ribands 
and  clean  smocks,  you  must  know  most  assuredly  more  than 
I  do,  as  I  seldom  troubled  about  it. 

in 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

You  must  bear  in  mind  that  this  Fair  is  exactly  the  same  as 
that  held  in  the  month  of  May,  but,  as  no  notice  has  been  taken 
of  it  by  Mr.  Hone  in  either  of  his  volumes,  I  suppose  it  very 
little  matters  whether  your  description  is  of  the  Fair  held  in 
May  or  December  [sic]. 

I  have  to  lament,  my  dear  Sir,  the  discontinuance  of  the 
ancient  custom  of  back-swording  at  Purton  village  but,  as  long 
as  they  keep  up  their  Fairs,  the  other  loss  will  not  be  so  much 
felt. 

Aug.  13.  1826. 

A  note  is  added  by  C.  T.  saying  that  Old  Corey  only  came 
to  the  Autumn  Fair,  and  that  that  held  in  May  was  for  cattle 
alone,  while  the  later  one  was  for  pleasure. 

Then  follows  a  poem  with  this  dedication  :— 

To  the  worthy  and  respectable  inhabitants  of  Purton  this 
song  is  most  respectfully  inscribed  by  their  ever  true  and 
devoted  humble  servant,  Charles  Tomlinson. 


Song :  Purton  Fair. 

Come  neighbours  listen,  I  '11  sing  you  a  song 
Which  I  assure  you,  will  not  keep  you  long, 
I  11  sing  a  good  song,  about  old  Purton  Fair. 
For  that  is  the  place  lads,  to  drive  away  care. 

The  damsels  all  meet  full  of  mirth  and  of  glee, 
And  they  are  as  happy,  as  happy  can  be, 
Such  worth  and  such  beauty  fairs  seldom  display, 
And  sorrow  is  banished  on  this  happy  day. 

There  's  the  brave  lads  of  Purton  at  back-sword  so  clever. 
Who  were  ne'er  known  to  flinch,  but  victorious  ever, 
The  poor  boys  of  Stretton  are  bashed  away, 
For  Purtons  famed  youth  ever  carry  the  day. 

Tis  old"  Corey  Dyne  "  who  wisely  declares, 
Stretton's  lads  must  be  beaten  at  all  Purton's  Fairs, 
They  cant  match  our  courage,  then  huzza  my  boys 
To  still  conquering  Purton,  let  's  kick  up  a  noise  ! 


112 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

Old  Corey  's  the  merriest  blade  in  the  Fair, 
What  he  tells  us  is  true,  so  prithee  dont  spare, 
Remember  poor  Corey,  Come  pray  have  a  throw, 
Tis  but  once  a  year,  as  you  very  well  know. 

But  here  ends  my  song,  so  lets  haste  to  the  Green, 
Tis  as  pretty  a  spot  as  ever  was  seen, 
And  if  you  are  sad,  or  surrounded  with  care, 
Haste  quickly,  haste  quickly,  to  Old  Purton  Fair. 

Purton  Bonfire. 

In  another  letter  from  Charles  Tomlinson  to  the  Editor 
of  the  Everyday  Book,  we  find  the  following  : — 

DEAR  SIR, 

At  almost  every  village  in  England,  the  fifth  of  November 
is  regarded  in  a  very  especial  manner.  Some  pay  greater 
attention  to  it  than  others,  but  I  believe  it  is  invariably  noticed 
by  all. 

I  have  been  present  at  Old  Purton  bonfire,  and  perhaps 
the  following  short  notice  of  it  may  not  be  uninteresting. 

I  before  stated  that  the  green,  or  Close,  at  Purton,  is  the 
spot  alloted  for  amusements  in  general.  This  is  also  the  place 
for  the  ceremonies  on  this  highly  important  day,  which  I  am 
about  to  describe. 

Several  weeks  before,  the  boys  of  the  village  go  to  every 
house  begging  faggots ;  and  if  they  are  refused  they  all  answer 
together  : — 

If  you  don't  give  us  one 

We  '11  take  two  ; 
The  better  for  us,  Sir, 
And  the  worse  for  you. 

They  were  once  refused  by  a  farmer  (who  was  very  much 
disliked  by  the  poor  for  his  severity  and  unkindness)  and  accord- 
ingly they  determined  to  make  him  repent.  He  kept  a  sharp 
lookout  over  his  faggot  pile,  but  forgot  that  something  else 
might  be  stolen.  The  boys  got  into  his  backyard  and  extracted 
a  new  pump,  which  had  not  oeen  properly  fixed,  and  bore  it 
off  in  triumph  to  the  green,  where  it  was  burnt  amidst  the  loud 
acclamations  of  the  young  rogues  generally. 

"3 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

All  the  wood,  etc.,  which  has  been  previously  collected, 
is  brought  into  the  middle  of  the  close  where  an  effigy  of  poor 
Guy  is  burnt.  A  figure  is  made  (similar  to  one  of  those  carried 
about  London  Streets,)  intending  to  represent  the  conspirator, 
and  placed  at  the  top  of  a  high  pole,  with  the  fuel  all  around. 
Previous  to  lighting  it,  poor  Guy  is  shot  at  by  all  who  have  the 
happiness  to  possess  guns  for  the  purpose,  and  pelted  with 
squibs,  crackers,  etc.  This  fun  continues  about  an  hour,  and 
then  the  pile  is  lighted,  the  place  echoes  with  huzzas,  guns  keep 
up  perpetual  reports,  fireworks  are  flying  in  all  directions,  and 
the  village  bells  merrily  ring.  The  fire  is  kept  up  a  considerable 
time,  and  it  is  a  usual  custom  for  a  large  piece  of  "real  Wiltshire 
bacon  "  to  be  dressed  by  it,  which  is  taken  to  the  public-house, 
together  with  potatoes  roasted  in  the  ashes  of  the  bonfire,  and 
a  jovial  repast  is  made.  As  the  fire  decreases,  successive 
quantities  of  potatoes  are  dressed  in  the  embers  by  the  rustics, 
who  seem  to  regard  them  as  the  great  delicacies  of  the  night. 

There  is  no  restraint  put  on  the  loyal  zeal  of  these  good  folks, 
and  the  fire  is  maintained  to  a  late  hour.  I  remember,  on  one 
occasion,  hearing  the  guns  firing  as  I  lay  in  bed  between  two 
and  three  o'clock  in  the  morning.  The  public-house  is  kept  open 
nearly  all  night,  ale  flows  plentifully,  and  it  is  not  spared  by  the 
revellers.  They  have  a  noisy  chorus,  which  is  intended  as  a 
toast  to  his  Majesty,  it  runs  thus  : — 

My  brave  lads  remember 

The  fifth  of  November, 

Gunpowder  treason  and  plot, 

We  will  drink,  smoke,  and  sing,  boys, 

And  our  bells  they  shall  ring,  boys, 

And  here  's  health  to  our  King,  boys, 

For  he  shall  not  be  forgot. 

Their  merriment  continues  till  morning,  when  they  generally 
retire  to  rest  very  much  inebriated,  or,  as  they  term  it,  "  merry," 
or  "top  heavy." 

I  hope  to  have  the  pleasure  of  reading  other  communications 
in  your  interesting  work  on  this  good  old  English  custom  ; 
and  beg  to  remain, 

Dear  Sir,  etc., . 

C.  T. 
October  20,  1826. 

114 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

These  very  interesting  stories  of  old  days  seem  to  bring  with 
them  a  wish  to  know  something  of  the  manner  in  which  the 
people  of  Purton  obtained  this  privilege  of  having  a  Play  Close 
or  Green,  forever  reserved  for  them  and  their  descendants. 
The  writer  has  therefore,  through  the  kindness  of  Mrs.  Story- 
Maskelyne,  obtained  the  following  information : — 

Purton  Play  Close. 

Under  the  name  of  "  The  Church  House  Close,"  a  close 
of  pasture  containing  three  acres  more  or  less,  now  known  by 
the  name  of  the  Play  Close,  was  conveyed  by  Henry  Gleed, 
"  Innholder,"  and  Mary  his  wife  to  Trustees  in  the  year  1641, 
and  with  it  a  house  adjoining  called  "  Weekes"  or  "  Wilkes." 
The  close  of  pasture  was  "  to  be  used  for  a  place  of  exercise, 
recreation,  lawful  sports  and  pastimes,  at  all  fit  and  convenient 
tymes  and  seasons  for  the  common  good  and  benefit  of  the  young 
and  other  inhabitants  of  Purton." 

The  house  was  to  be  held  in  trust  for  an  almshouse  for 
the  poor  people  of  Purton,  who  were  "  to  be  placed  there  as 
the  Vicar,  Churchwardens,  and  Overseers  of  the  Poor,  and  other 
chiefest  and  best  sort  of  inhabitants  of  the  Parish  of  Purton, 
or  the  major  part  of  them  shall  appoint." 

The  above-mentioned  house  called  "  Weekes "  and  the 
"  Church  House  Close "  had  previously  formed  part  of  the 
copyhold  estate  of  Henry  Gleed 's  father,  John  Gleed,  which 
was  enfranchised  in  1608  by  Gray,  Lord  Chandos,  son  of  the 
first  Lord  Chandos,  and  owner  of  much  land  formerly  belonging 
to  the  Abbey  of  Malmesbury.  In  the  Gleeds'  time  the  Church 
House  was  occupied  by  John  Pannell,  and  the  "  Inn  "  presumably 
by  Henry  Gleed,  as  he  is  described  as  an  "  Innholder,"  and  now 
"  Weekes "  becomes  the  Almshouse.  The  Trustees  who  paid 
£66  to  Henry  Gleed  and  his  wife,  17  Charles  I.,  1641,  for  this 
close  of  pasture  and  "  Weekes  "  to  be  held  in  trust  for  the 
inhabitants  of  Purton  were  : — 

Nevill  Maskelyne  (Gent). 

William  Maskelyne  (Gent). 

William  Skilling, 

George  Stevens, 

Richard  Bathe, 

Thomas  Carter,  and 

John  Telling  of  Purton  (Yeomen). 

"5 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

Where  Mr.  Mussell's  shop  now  stands  was  once  the  "  Lock 
up,"  1  where  those  villagers  who  had  forfeited  their  right  to 
freedom  through  drink  or  other  causes  were  placed  "  in  durance 
vile  "  until  the  Justices  could  sit  and  pronounce  sentence  upon 
them.  There  was  no  window  in  front  in  those  days  ;  the 
opening  door  was  on  the  right  side  (now  closed) ;  and  as  the 
level  of  the  interior  was  much  below  the  present  floor,  it  must 
have  been  indeed  a  stuffy  and  unpleasant  abode. 

The  old  door  may  still  be  seen  on  an  outhouse.  It  is  of 
oak,  freely  studded  over  with  nails,  and  an  oblong  opening, 
strongly  barred  with  iron  near  the  top,  was  the  only  apparent 
ventilation  available. 

Across  the  narrow  alley  may  be  seen  the  ancient  house  of 
"  Weekes,"  once  the  Almshouse  of  the  parish,  and  mentioned 
as  such  in  Mrs.  Story-Maskelyne's  notes.  It  is  a  large  house 
built  of  the  local  stone,  with  a  stone  tile  roof  ;  its  condition 
is  lamentable,  the  tiles  are  only  held  in  position  at  the  edge 
of  the  roof  by  a  piece  of  rabbit  wire  arranged  to  catch  them 
should  they  fall. 

There  is  an  immense  chimney  on  the  left  side,  wide  enough 
to  have  been  used  as  a  hiding-place  should  occasion  have 
required  it,  and  a  pretty  old  window  at  the  back,  which  once 
no  doubt  looked  on  to  the  Play  Close,  but  now  only  overlooks 
a  small  garden. 

The  "  Co-operative  Stores "  just  opposite  is  an  old  house, 
and  bears  the  date  1677. 

The  stocks  once  stood  somewhere  in  this  part  of  the  village, 
and  an  unpleasant  enough  position  it  must  have  been,  as  no 
doubt  the  children  of  those  days  were  much  like  their 
descendants  at  Purton  to-day,  and  would  have  much  enjoyed 
some  horse-play  with  a  helpless  victim  in  the  stocks,  who  would 
have  been  quite  unable  to  defend  himself  or  retaliate  in  any 
way. 

Early  in  the  nineteenth  century  a  dispute  arose  in  connection 
with  the  Play  Close,  as  Mr.  Raskins'  grandfather  began  to  make 
a  road  across  it  to  gain  access  to  his  fields  from  the  High  Street. 
This  was  fiercely  resented  by  the  neighbours,  and  while  the 
work  of  making  the  road  was  continued  by  day,  each  night 
deep  ditches  were  dug  across  by  the  indignant  Purtonians. 
1  Or  "  Bind  House." 

116 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

At  length  the  law  was  called  in,  and  after  much  discussion 
Mr.  Haskins  was  allowed  to  make  his  road,  but  only  so  as  to 
enable  him  to  have  ingress  and  egress  to  his  farm. 

The  curious  little  pathway  which  runs  from  the  Schools  to 
the  High  Street,  with  high  walls  on  either  side,  bears  the  quaint 
name  of  "  The  Little  Lane." 

While  thinking  of  names,  one  occurs  frequently  during  the 
eighteenth  century  in  the  deeds'  Charity  Accounts  which  is 
worthy  of  record,  namely  "  Thomas  Catchaside."  Surnames 
were  probably  given  as  nicknames  when  not  derived  from 
property,  and  one  wonders  whether  Thomas  Catchaside  or  his 
ancestor  had  done  some  unusual  feat  on  the  cricket  field  to 
earn  himself  this  appellation.  No  descendants  of  the  name 
exist  to-day  in  Purton. 

Wayside  pools  rejoice  in  picturesque  names  in  this  neighbour- 
hood, Harvest  Water,  the  Weir  Pond  and  the  Wash  Pool 
bringing  to  one's  mind  scenes  from  other  days  now  long 
departed,  of  horses  watered  during  harvest,  an  ancient  water 
system,  and  a  sheep  dipping. 


117 


CHAPTER   XVI 

BRADEN   FOREST — PARISH   BOUNDARIES 

By  Mrs.  Story-Maskelyne 

FORESTS  originally  were  not  merely  tracts  of  wooded  country, 
but  included  waste  ground,  moors  and  commons,  such  as 
Dartmoor,  Exmoor,  etc.,  within  the  boundary  of  which  the 
rights  of  hunting  were  reserved  for  the  King,  and  they  were 
subject  to  very  severe  forest  laws,  which  dated  back  to  the 
days  of  Canute. 

The  earliest  record  we  have  of  Braden  Forest  is  in  one  of 
the  charters  of  Malmesbury  Abbey,  dated  A.D.  796,  where  it  is 
stated  that  Purton,  or  Piritone  as  it  was  then  called,  was 
situated  "  on  the  east  side  of  Braden  Forest" 

The  wood  at  Purton,  as  recorded  in  Domesday,  was  two 
miles  long  and  two  broad,  but  though  the  forest  was  no  doubt 
larger  than  this,  including  as  it  did  a  considerable  portion  of 
Cricklade  Parish,  it  was  at  that  time  very  much  smaller  than 
it  became  in  the  days  of  King  Henry  II.  and  John,  for  those 
Norman  princes  were  wont  to  increase  their  hunting  grounds 
by  encroaching  on  and  afforesting  the  woods  of  their  neighbours, 
and  subjecting  them  to  the  stringent  forest  laws  by  which  they 
protected  the  deer  and  other  wild  animals  living  in  the  woods, 
and  keeping  them  for  their  own  private  sport. 

Much  in  the  same  way  as  William  Rufus  created  the  New 
Forest  for  his  own  hunting  ground,  so  we  find  that  several 
woods  near  Purton  were  afforested  by  Henry  II.  and  John, 
and  thus  added  to  Braden  Forest. 

These  encroachments  included — 

Brockenbury,  Brenke-  all  belonging  to  Malmesbury  Abbey, 
worth,       Cheorlton 
and  Purton  woods. 

Woods  of  the  Manor        „        „        Cirencester  Abbey. 
of  Minety. 

118 


THE   STORY    OF    PURTON 

Woods  of  the  Manor  all  belonging  to  Stanley  Abbey, 
of  Midgehall. 

Woods  of  the  Manor        „        „        Tewkesbury  Abbey, 
of  Ashton. 

Woods  of  the  Manor  „        „        William  de  Grandison. 

of  Lydiard  Tregoze. 

Woods    of    Hailstone  „        „        the  Abbey  of  Gloucester. 

(nr.  Cricklade). 

Woods     of      Lydiard  „        „        John     de     Cleetor    and 

Millicent  Manor.  Robert  Russell. 

The  Brochure  Woods  „        „        Elizabeth    Paynell    and 

Alionora  de  Keynes. 

We  learn  from  this  list  and  other  evidence  that  after  the 
Norman  afforestations  and  encroachments  Braden  Forest 
included  Wootton  Bassett x  on  the  south  to  near  Ashton  Keynes 
on  the  north,  extending  to  the  River  Rey  on  the  east  and  to 
Charlton  on  the  west.  The  ancient  oaks  still  living  on  Blagrove 
Farm  probably  mark  an  outlying  part  of  a  black  grove  of  the 
old  forest. 

In  consequence  of  the  grave  troubles  arising  from  these 
Norman  afforestations,  Henry  III.,  when  only  nine  years  of 
age,  was  compelled  to  issue  the  Charter  of  the  Forest  in  1217. 

To  comply  with  the  directions  of  the  Charter,  perambula- 
tions of  the  forests  were  necessary,  and  they  were,  moreover, 
required  in  order  to  carry  out  special  regulations  regarding  the 
sale  of  fallen  timber  after  the  great  gale  of  1222.  Braden 
Forest  was  one  of  over  forty  forests  affected  by  the  gale,  the 
perambulation  of  which  was  made  in  Henry  III.'s  reign. 

Further  perambulations  made  in  1300  (Edward  I.)  and  in 
Edward  III.'s  reign  show  that  by  that  time  the  forest  was 
greatly  reduced  in  size. a 

The  following  story  taken  from  the  Cartulary  of  Malmesbury 
Abbey  is  a  good  exemplification  of  forest  troubles  : — 

"  The  Abbot  of  Malmesbury  hath  a  wood  which  is  called 
Flusrygge,  appertaining  to  his  Manor  of  Cruddewell,  and  have 

1  Wootton  Bassett  is  mentioned  as  "  intra  silvam  que  vocatur"  in  a 
charter  of  Eadwig. 

z  See  perambulations  of  both  dates  at  the  end  of  the  paper  from 
J.  T.  Akerman's  paper  in  Archceologia,  vol.  xxxvii. 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

had  this  wood  in  severally  .  .  .  now  500  years  and  upwards, 
till  the  reign  of  King  John  who  enf crested  it,  and  since  that 
time  they  have  had  the  same  wood  .  .  .  against  all  men's 
rights,  from  Michaelmas  day  at  noon  until  Martinmas  day  at 
noon,  for  preservation  of  the  Mast.  It  happened  on  the  Morrow 
of  St.  Michael  in  the  6th  year  of  King  Edward,  that  the  Earl  of 
Hereford  being  at  His  Manor  of  Wokesege,  which  is  near  to 
the  same  wood  of  Flusrygge,  there  came  his  people  and  put  the 
demesne  hogs  of  the  Earl  and  the  hogs  of  his  people  of  the  town 
of  Wokesege  into  the  aforesaid  wood  ;  then  came  the  Abbot's 
people  and  impounded  the  Earl's  hogs  and  the  hogs  of  his  men  at 
his  manor  of  Cruddewell.  Soon  after  came  the  demesne  people 
of  the  Earl  and  the  people  of  the  town  with  great  force,  and 
broke  down  the  gates  and  forcibly  took  out  the  hogs,  and 
wounded  the  Abbot's  people  even  unto  the  death,  so  that  the 
Coroner  was  sent  to  look  into  this  great  affray.  The  hogs  were 
forcibly  driven  back  to  the  wood  and  kept  there  over  15  days 
till  all  the  Mast  was  consumed  ;  so  that  no  one  belonging  to 
the  Abbot  dared  to  come  near  the  wood." 

J.  T.  Akerman,  from  whose  History  of  Malmesbury  and 
Braden  these  extracts  are  quoted,  says  that  "  a  quit  claim  of 
the  Earl  of  Hereford  brought  this  dispute  to  an  amicable 
conclusion." 

In  later  times  the  inclosures  of  commons  and  the  dis- 
afforestation  of  forest  lands  brought  other  grievances  into 
notice,  and  when  Charles  I.  handed  over  a  large  tract  of  Braden 
Forest  for  inclosure,  the  rights  of  the  inhabitants,  which  now 
came  to  an  end,  to  pasture  their  cattle  in  the  woods  and  wastes 
and  to  gather  fuel  there  had  to  be  considered  by  the  Exchequer 
Commissioners.  In  1628  they  reported  (inter  alia)  that  Edward 
Pleydell 1  had  been  "  accustomed  the  Thursdays  before  Shrove 
Sunday  yearly,  to  hunte,  chase,  kill  and  carry  awaye  the  Venison 
and  wylde  beastes  that  they  should  fynde  in  the  places  of  the 
sayde  forest  called  Great  Sautridge,  Little  Sautridge,  Keynes  Wood, 
Poucher's  Ragg,  Cove  Wood,  Wood  brechc,  The  Leighe  fields, 
Brownes  and  Hailstones  even  unto  Cricklade"  He  also  claimed 
fishing  rights  at  West  Mills. 

1  He  was  a  landowner  in  Cricklade. 
I2O 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

The  proceeds  of  the  hunt  were  applied  to  the  Parish  Church 
of  Cricklade. 

In  these  days  J.  Aubrey x  was  told  by  Mr.  G.  Ayliffe,  of 
Grittenham,  "  that  a  squirrel  might  have  jumped  from  tree  to 
tree  all  the  way  from  Wootton  Bassett  to  Grittenham." 

After  the  inclosure  of  1628,  Charles  I.  allotted  100  acres  to 
the  poor  of  Cricklade  and  25  acres  to  the  poor  of  Purton  Stoke, 
in  lieu  of  their  forest  rights. 

The  profits  arising  from  the  letting  of  the  aforesaid  twenty- 
five  acres  allotted  to  the  poor  of  Purton  Stoke  are  distributed 
at  the  beginning  of  each  year,  but  the  present  footing  on  which 
the  charity  was  established  was  not  made  till  the  eighth  year 
of  George  III.,  when  it  was  ordered  that  the  inhabitants  of 
Purton  Stoke  should  be  at  liberty  to  nominate  fifteen  Trustees 
to  set  and  let  the  twenty-five  acres  of  land,  and  to  manage  the 
said  charity  for  the  said  benefit  of  the  poor  inhabitants  ;  also 
that  as  often  as  the  number  of  Trustees  should  be  reduced 
to  seven  others  were  to  be  named  to  make  the  number  to 
fifteen. 

The  twenty-five  acres  are  partly  in  Purton  Parish  and  partly 
in  Cricklade,  and  they  consist  of  two  fields  of  pasture  ground. 
The  Trustees  distribute  the  rents  yearly  on  the  first  Thursday 
after  the  6th  of  January,  application  being  made  a  year  before 
the  applicants  can  receive  the  charity,  and  when  once  admitted 
they  receive  it  for  life.  In  1765  £30  gs.  was  distributed  among 
sixteen  families.  In  1885  one  field  was  let  for  £30  and  the 
other  £19.  In  1917  there  were  only  nine  Trustees  appointed 
to  act.  * 

Inclosures  of  the  Common  Field. 

The  inclosure  and  disafforestation  of  woods  and  wastes, 
interfering  with  ancient  rights  which  the  owners  were  bound 
to  respect  and  by  which  the  people  claimed  "  House  bote," 
"  fyre  bote,"  "  hedge  bote,"  "  gate  bote,"  etc.,  were  frequent 
sources  of  trouble  down  to  the  sixteenth  and  seventeenth 
centuries.  Troubles  arising  from  the  manner  in  which  the 

1  J.  Aubrey,  the  great  antiquary  and  historian  of  Wiltshire  of  the 
seventeenth  century. 

3  See  Chapter  viii. 
121 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

common  fields,  both  arable  and  pasture,  were  cultivated  were 
equally  common  at  that  time. 

The  earliest  inclosure  of  common  land  in  Purton  Parish 
was  effected  in  the  reign  of  Queen  Elizabeth  in  A.D.  1594,  when 
Lord  Chandos,  who  became  a  landowner  there  after  the  dissolu- 
tion of  Malmesbury  Abbey,  agreed  with  "  the  tenants,  free- 
holders, copy-holders  and  f  ermore  within  the  manor  and  lordship 
of  Pirton  and  Purton  Keynes,  to  exchange,  inclose  and  take  in 
several  lands  lying  in  the  Common  fields  of  Pirton."  Four 
years  later  they  confirmed  the  original  Inclosure  Act,  and  "  for  a 
competent  sum  of  money  did  assent  and  approve  the  exchanges 
.  .  .  clearly  freed  from  all  clayme  right  and  interest  of 
common,"  at  the  same  time  specifying  that  these  exchanges 
should  be  made  without  interfering  with  the  "  Custom  of  the 
Manor" 

In  this  unsettled  state  of  affairs  it  was  evidently  necessary 
that  the  people's  rights  should  be  defined  and  stated  in  writing, 
so  that  they  could  be  referred  to  when  required,  and  Certains 
Customes  belonging  to  the  Mannor  of  Pirton,  a  document  on 
parchment  now  at  Basset  Down,  was  probably  written  for  this 
purpose  and  at  this  time  ;  it  probably  was  Edmund  Maskelyne's 
own  copy,  to  which  he  referred  in  his  reply  to  a  suit  in  Chancery, 
alluded  to  farther  on. 

It  is  written,  with  many  abbreviations,  on  a  long  parchment 
roll,  *  containing  forty  items. 

The  customs  relate  to  copyholders,  inheritance  and  tenure 
of  land  and  heriots,  whilst  others  relate  to  the  rights  and  customs 
of  the  people  to  have  timber,  wood,  stone  and  sand  for  their 
"  house  bote,"  etc. 

The  following  items  will  suffice  to  give  an  idea  of  these  old 
customs  : — 

Item  12.  "  Our  Custom  is  to  have  all  manner  of  Timber 
for  our  reparations  of  Customary  tenements  as  often  as  need 
shall  require,  as  well  for  doores,  wyndowes,  as  other  great  timber, 
appointed  by  the  lord's  officer,  and  also  that  we  should  have 
sande,  for  the  same  separations  in  the  Common,  and  also  stones 
if  we  have  any  within  our  arable  ground,  every  man  upon  his 
own  ground." 

1  Wilts  Arch.  Mag.,  vol.  xl.,  p.  no. 

122 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

Item  13.  "  Our  Custom  is  if  we  take  timber  for  reparation 
of  bridge  we  should  have  it  delivered  by  the  Lord  or  his 
officers,  as  often  as  need  shall  require." 

Item  14.  "  Our  Custom  is  that  all  Toppes,  Starved  trees 
windfalls  and  shrowdes,  all  underwood  as  thorn,  maple,  hazel, 
and  withy,  as  others,  to  be  ours  by  our  Customs." 

In  Item  12  we  notice  that  sand  and  stone  belonged  by  custom 
to  the  people  with  certain  restrictions,  and  this  fact  is  alluded 
to  in  Edmund  Maskelyne's  reply  to  a  bill  in  Chancery  concerning 
the  early  inclosure  of  1597,  where  he  mentions  "  Stean  Mead  " 
as  a  place  for  getting  stone  without  trespass.  "Stean  Mead," 
near  Woodwards  Bridge,  was  called  Vennys  when  bought  by 
Edmund  Maskelyne  for  £2  in  1610. 

The  common  fields  concerned  in  the  inclosure  of  1597  are 
not  mentioned  by  name  in  the  Act,  nor  are  the  names  of  the 
freeholders  and  copyholders  concerned  in  the  exchanges  with 
Grey,  Lord  Chandos,  but  from  a  MS.  book  written  by  Nevill 
Maskelyne  in  1630,  soon  after  the  death  of  his  father  Edmund, 
we  find  that  850  more  acres  of  common  or  waste  land  were 
inclosed  by  agreement  between  George,  Lord  Chandos,  and 
the  inhabitants  of  the  Manor,  when  the  following  fields  were 
still  uninclosed : — 

"  Betwell  Field,  Combe  Field,  Church  Field,  Bar-field,  Bryn- 
field,  Estfield,  SparsoU  Field,  Clardon  Field." 

Betwell  Field  is  elsewhere  called  Battle  Field,  or  Bettle  Field. 
Barfield  is  evidently  what  is  now  known  as  Berkfield. 1 

The  fields  were  all  arable,  and  they  were  cultivated  in 
common,  according  to  the  custom  of  the  country,  "  controuled  " 
by  the  Constables  and  Tythingmen  chosen  yearly  by  the 
Steward  and  Court  of  the  Manor,  who  met  and  decided  on 
the  crop  to  be  sown  ;  their  decision  was  law. 

The  arable  fields  "  were  to  receive  rotation  of  either  wheat, 
rye,  or  spring  crops,  and  were  thrown  open  when  the  crops 
were  carried,  to  be  depastured  in  common  by  the  cattle  of 
the  Community."  They  were  divided  into  permanent  strips 

1  See  Chapter  ix. 
123 


THE    STORY    OF    PURTON 

of  unequal  size,  scattered  over  the  fields,  and  allotted  to  the 
inhabitants  of  the  neighbourhood  according  to  their  importance, 
the  lord  of  the  Manor  claiming  one  fifteenth. 

The  extreme  inconvenience  of  this  old  method  of  cultivation 
is  obvious,  and  led  to  further  inclosures  and  exchanges. 

The  reasons  given  for  both  the  1738  and  the  1799  inclosures 
the  first  applying  to  pasture  land  and  the  second  to  arable, 
were  similar. 

In  1738,  when  1,200  acres  known  as  Purton  Common  and 
Purton  Stoke  Common,  including  Shooters  Hill,  Peavenhill, 
Bagbury  Green,  Little  Marsh,  Widham  and  Cow  Street,  parts 
of  the  Manors  of  Great  Purton,  Purton  Keynes,  and  Purton 
Pouchers,  were  enclosed,  it  was  stated  that  "  for  want  of  proper 
culture  the  Common  land  had  been  greatly  impoverished," 
and  frequent  disputes  arose  among  the  owners  of  adjoining 
land  relating  "  to  their  rights  of  Stinting, 1  or  Stocking  the 
Common,  the  land  and  freeholders  were  desirous  that  a  specific 
part  should  be  assigned  to  each  proprietor  to  hold  as  freehold 
farms,"  or,  as  stated  in  1799,  "  whereas  the  properties  of  ... 
owners  in  the  open  and  common  fields  lie  intermixed  and 
dispersed  in  small  parcels  in  their  present  situation,  and  are 
incapable  of  any  considerable  improvement,  but  if  divided  and 
inclosed  and  specific  allotments  made  to  the  several  persons 
interested  therein,  such  allotments  and  inclosures  would  tend 
greatly  to  the  advantage  and  improvement  of  their  Estate." 
Therefore  the  inclosure  was  effected. 

Since  the  passing  of  the  last  Inclosure  Act  of  1799  the 
modern  map  of  Purton  Parish  presents  a  totally  different  aspect 
to  what  we  see  portrayed  in  an  old  map  finished  in  1744,  which 
shows  the  arable  fields  still  cultivated  in  strips. 

The  numbers  on  the  map  refer  to  the  owner  of  the 
strip,  or  land,  *  and  they  show  that  No.  3,  for  example,  held 
ten  separate  strips  in  this  one  field,  all  lying  separate  from  one 
another.  We  are  told  that  "  the  100  acres  belonging  to  the 

1  The  Stint  was  the  unit  by  which  rights  of  common  were  measured, 
one  Stint  being  the  right  to  pasture  during  a  definite  part  of  the  year  one  horse 
or  two  cows,  or  ten  sheep,  or  one  sheep  or  three  geese. 

1  The  word  "  land  "  is  used  to  denote  the  ground  between  two  water 
furrows  in  a  ploughed  field.  The  head  land  is  where  you  turn  the  plough. 


124 


THE    STORY    OF    PURTON 

Rector's  Glebe  near  Peterborough,  was  made  up  of  145  strips 
with  no  better  boundary  from  other  properties  on  each  side 
than  a  mere  furrow." 

It  was  this  awkward  arrangement  that  led  to  the 
inclosures  of  Purton  Parish  and  elsewhere. 

A  Perambulation  of  Braden  Forest  in  the  reign   of 
Henry  III. 

The  boundary  began  at  "  Brimyngersbridge,"  and  goes  on 
to  "  Garesbourne "  ;  to  "  Wodebridge,"  "  Wishweresmull," 
"  Shaldeford,"  "  Bradenbrook,"  "  Steortwood,"  by  "  Swillbrook," 
to  "  Pye  Hegge  "  ;  by  the  Thames  to  "  Halegston  "  ;  to  "  West 
Mull "  ;  to  "  Couel  de  croyz  "  (which  Mr.  Akerman  thinks  was 
a  cross  with  a  cover  in  or  near  Cricklade)  ;  then  to  "  Calcot 
bridge";  to  "Stokken  lake";  to  "  Eisey  bridge";  to  the 
River  "  Rey  "  at  "  Langebrigge  "  ;  to  "  WydehuU  Mill "  ;  to 
"  Ayldef  ord "  ;  to  "  Shaghebrigge,"  and  so  back  to  the 
commencement . 

In  Edward  III.'s  time,  after  the  passing  of  the  Charter  of 
the  forest,  the  boundaries  show  that  the  forest  was  greatly 
reduced  in  size.  They  began  at  "  Beostock  "  ;  then  "  to  a  small 
stream  called  "  Greenbourne"  ;  to  "  Colstockesford  "  "by  the 
two  Sandfordes  "  and  the  "  Calewe-hill  de  la  Cove  "  to  "  Gode- 
frayshurn  "  ;  to  "  Sandraggeshok  "  ;  to  "  Canonesweye,"  "  along 
the  Thames  to  the  house  of  William  of  the  Mill";  "to  the 
"  Cowled  Cross  "  ;  to  "  Stokebridge,"  "  Wydemor,"  "  Peverelse- 
woode,"  and  so  back  to  "  Beostock." 

In  Charles  I.'s  reign  the  woods  near  Cricklade  and  Purton 
were  disafforested  and  let  to  Philip  Jacobson  (to  whom  the  King 
owed  a  large  sum  of  money)  and  to  others.  The  boundaries  ran 
from  "  Charnam  Oak,"  where  was  a  Mere  ;  to  a  gutter  called 
Greenbourne  ;  to  Sandf  ord  ;  to  the  Leigh  Marsh  ;  to  Bum-lake  ; 
and  to  the  River  Thames  ;  to  Halstone  Bridge  ;  to  West  Mills  ; 
to  "  Culver  Hay  Cross "  ;  to  the  "  Forty "  ;  to  the  end  of 
"  Chelworth  Lane  "  ;  to  "  Frith  End  "  ;  "  by  the  brook  to  Stoke 
Bridge "  ;  to  "  Scholar's  Cross "  ;  to  the  Mere  by  Charnam 
Oak. 

The  boundaries  of  the  Hamlet  of  Braden,  as  given  in  1591, 
called  the  "  Dutchie  woods  adjoining  unto  the  Forest  of  Bradon 

I25 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

and  the  Temple  Closes,  to  the  same  appertaining,  began  on  the 
north-east  part  thereof,  at  the  north-west  end  of  the  said  Tempel 
Closes,  thence  leading  westward  to  Stonyhurst  Waie,  to  Turn- 
trowe  Oke,  to  Gospell  Oke,  to  the  south-east  part  of  Lodge 
lawne,  to  Armyn  Crosse,  to  Charlame  Oke,  down  the  green  slade 
to  Littell  Charlame,  by  south  part  of  wood  to  a  tree  called 
Dunncowe,  to  a  mere  there  ;  to  Mapellzell  to  Abbottes  bridge 
which  boundeth  upon  Gestymelye  ;  to  Purton  Marsh,  and  so  to 
south-west  end  of  Tempell  Close  .  .  .  verie  good  waste  ground 
there." 

The  Perambulation  of  Purton  Parish  in  1733. 

In  bygone  years  it  was  the  custom  to  make  sure  of  the 
boundaries  of   a  parish  by  perambulating  it  in   May, x  and 

1  Note  by  Author. 
ROGATION  DAY  PROCESSIONS. 

The  term  litany,  a  word  of  Greek  origin,  belongs  properly  to  any 
form  of  entreaty,  but  in  Christian  usage  it  has  gained  a  specialised  meaning 
as  the  result  of  a  somewhat  complex  history.  In  early  days  the  word 
was  used  to  describe  penitential  services.  St.  Basil  speaks  of  these  in  his 
day  (375),  but  admits  they  were  innovations.  The  term  thus  employed 
denoted  days  or  acts  of  penitence  and  supplication,  and  when  this  reached 
the  West,  it  was  the  equivalent  of  "  Rogation."  A  little  later,  during  the 
stress  of  the  Arian  conflict,  St.  Chrysostom  introduced  processions  at 
Constantinople,  as  a  counter-blow  to  Arian  propaganda  (398),  accompanied 
by  responsorial  singing.  This  proved  so  popular,  that  the  custom  was 
retained,  and  processions  were  henceforth  used  as  a  method  of  solemn 
supplication,  joined  often  with  fasting  and  special  prayer  in  time  of  emer- 
gency. This,  too,  penetrated  into  the  West.  The  best- known  instance  is 
that  at  Vienna,  when  Mamertus  the  Bishop  in  470  ordered  special  Rogation 
or  Litanies  to  be  celebrated  on  the  three  days  preceding  Ascension  Day, 
at  a  time  of  great  distress  and  terror  in  his  diocese  caused  by  the  eruption 
of  a  volcano.  Thence  the  Rogation  spread  through  Gaul  and  came  to 
England.  The  Council  of  Clonshoo  in  747  adopted  them  as  well  as  the 
older  indigenous  Roman  Day  of  Supplication  on  April  25th,  which  had 
ousted  a  heathen  procession  called  the  Robigalia. 

The  responsorial  singing  would  lend  itself  naturally  for  use  in  processions, 
when  the  various  petitions  could  be  simply  and  effectively  responded  to 
by  the  moving  crowd.  Accordingly,  it  is  natural  to  find  that  in  the  West, 
too,  at  the  Litania  or  Rogation,  psalms  were  sung,  probably  responsorially, 
and  formed  the  main  part  of  the  service. 

It  was  not,  however,  processional  psalmody  that  was  to  be  associated 
ultimately  with  the  name  of  litany,  but  a  form  in  which  the  deacon  leads 
the  prayers  or  names  the  subjects  of  petition,  and  the  people  answer  to  each 
"  Lord  have  mercy." 

The  Rogation-tide  litanies  seem  to  have  developed  upon  various  lines 
in  different  places  in  England,  but  they  all  look  back  to  these  ancient 
types. 

126 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

impressing  the  boundary  on  the  memory  of  young  people  who 
accompanied  their  elders  in  the  perambulation  in  such  a  manner 
as  should  cause  them  to  remember  the  boundary  accurately. 
This  was  done  in  some  places  by  beating  the  boys  at  certain 
spots,  though  in  Purton  in  1733  this  was  not  done,  and  instead 
of  beating  the  boys  money  was  thrown  to  them,  and  in  one 
place  two  boys  fought.  We  also  find  that  at  the  more  important 
places  in  the  boundary  a  gospel  was  read  and  a  cross  made  in 
the  places  where  crosses  had  been  made  in  former  years,  on 
oaks  or  ashes,  many  of  them  long  since  dead  and  gone. 

The  "Gospel  Oak,"1  now  kept  in  the  Parish  Church  of 
St.  Sampson,  Cricklade,  was  once  a  landmark  on  the  boundary 
of  the  two  parishes. 

The  following 2  is  a  copy  of  "  A  true  and  Exact  Perambulation 
of  the  whole  Parish  of  Purton  in  the  County  of  Wilts  in  the  year 
of  our  Lord  1733  shewing  all  the  boundaries  of  the  said  Parish 
with  a  particular  account  where  the  procession  began  and 
ended  and  all  the  Several  places  where  Gospels  were  read  and 
Crosses  made,  and  all  occurences  that  happened  being  the 
business  of  two  days  as  followeth."  It  has  been  shortened 
by  leaving  out  the  names  of  former  owners  of  land  to  the 
right  and  left  of  the  places  indicated  in  the  boundary, 
where  these  names  confuse  the  story. 

"  Meeting  at  the  Parish  Church  of  Purton  the  third  day  of 
May  where  Prayers  being  ended  the  Procession  went  from 
thence  to  the  Water  in  Jobbers  Lane8  (near  Lydiard  Millicent 
Church)  where  a  Gospel  was  read  and  a  Cross  made,  from  thence 
along  the  bottom  of  Grove  piece,  through  Gillams  to  Saunders 
Closes  where  a  Gospel  was  read  and  a  Cross  cut  on  the  right  hand 
side  of  an  Ashen  tree,  in  an  old  decayed  Mound  in  the  Middle 
of  the  Close,  thence  to  Bagbury  Green  where  a  Gospel  was  read 
and  a  Cross  made  .  .  .  thence  (through  three  grounds)  to 
Restrop  lane  where  a  Gospel  was  read  and  a  Cross  made  ;  thence 
through  Dry  field,  and  He's,  .  .  .  through  Gardens  and 
grounds  to  Greenhill  Ground,  to  an  Oak  called  Green  hill  oak 
there  a  Gospel  was  read  and  a  Cross  cut  on  the  said  oak  on  the 

1  See  Chapter  xvii. 

1  Printed  in  Wilts  Arch.  Mag.,  vol.  xl.,  p.  119. 
8  Now  called  Lydiard  Lane. 

I27 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

right  hand  side  thereof  and  money  thrown  amongst  the  boys  and 
to  every  person  there  present  was  given  Cakes  and  Ale.     From 
thence  to  an  Oak  about  the  middle  of  Greenhill  where  a  Gospel 
was  read  and  a  Cross  cut  on  the  right  hand  side  of  the  said  Oak  ; 
from  thence  to  the  bottom  of  Greenhill  where  a  Meer  Stone 
formerly  stood  near  Sugham  ford  which  divides  the  Common 
and  Manor  of  Purton  from  the  Manor  of  Lidiard  Millicent 
where  a  Gospel  was  read  and  a  Cross  made.     From  thence 
through  a  ground  of  Nevil  Maskelyne  at  the  bottom  of  Greenhill 
into  Purton  Common    .    .    .    thence  to  a  place  where  an  Oak 
called  Pin  Oak  formerly  stood  where  a  Gospel  was  read  and 
Cross  made.     Thence  in  a  direct  line  through  the  Purlieu  into 
Langett 1  in  Purton  Common,  where  a  Gospel  was  read  and  a 
Cross  made    .     .     .    then  up  the  road  leading  to  Brinkworth, 
leaving  the  Meer  stones  near  Webbs  wood  on  the  left  hand  and 
the  Common  of  Purton  on  the  right — to  a  place  near  where  an 
Oak  called  Jaques  Oak  formerly  stood  near  Lookers  wood, 
where  a  Gospel  was  read  and  a  Cross  made  and  money  thrown 
amongst  the  boys — leaving  Lookers  wood  on  the  right  hand, 
we  came  into  Momes  Leaze — at  the  upper  end  or  corner  of  Momes 
leaze  a  Gospel  was  read  and  a  cross  made.     Crossing  the  way 
that  leads  from  Purton  to  Malmesbury    .     .     we  came  to  the 
top  of  the  hill  called  Worthy  Hill — turning  up  the  lane  that 
leads  to  Minety  where  a  Gospel  was  read  and  a  cross  made. 
Leaving  the  Inclosures  belonging  to  the  Manor  of  Charleton 
on  the  left,  and  the  wood  called  Dutchy  Coppices  on  the  right 
we  came  to  a  place  where  an  Oak  formerly  stood  called  Charnam 
Oak  where  a  Gospel  was  read  and  a  Cross  made  and  Money 
thrown  amongst  the  boys,  and  two  boys  fought.     This  is  the 
utmost  Bound  of  the  West  part  of  the  Perambulation  of  Purton. 
From  thence  through  the  Dutchy  Wood  the  land  of  Mr.  Jacob 
we  came  to  the  Dutchy  lands  of  Mr.  Nott  to  a  house  called  Willis' 
house    .     .     .     then  to  a  place  where  an  oak  formerly  stood 
called  Gospel  Oak,  where  a  Gospel  was  read  and  a  cross  made 
andjJMoney  thrown  amongst  the  boys  and  to  every  person 
there  present  were  given  Cakes  and  Ale.     Then  through  the 
Dutchy  lands  till  we  came  to  an  Ale  House  ;  then  into  Cricklade 

1  A  land  gate,  or  langett,  was  a  way  by  which  a   man  went  to  get 
to  his  "  land." 

128 


THE    STORY  OF    PURTON 

Road,  and  to  a  gate  at  the  end  of  the  lane,  then  leaving  the  gate 
on  the  left  hand  we  went  through  the  hedge  on  the  right  hand 
into  the  lands  of  Mr.  Rich  being  Duchy  lands — we  came  to  the 
corner  of  the  Poor's  Plot  where  a  Gospel  was  read  and  a  cross 
made — then  through  a  ground  called  Pancake  Hall,  crossing 
the  brook  into  Stoake  Common — to  the  north  corner  of 
the  Poor's  Plot  —  where  the  Perambulation  for  this  day 
ended. 

"  Meeting  the  fourth  day  of  May  in  Stoake  Common  at  the 
north  corner  of  the  Poor's  Plot — we  proceeded  to  the  upper 
end  of  Stoake  Common,  and  so  on  directly  up  the  Berry  Hill 
ground — till  we  came  to  a  lane  leading  from  Minety  Common 
to  Momes  Leaze  where  a  Gospel  was  read  and  a  cross  made. 
Proceeding  across  the  end  of  the  ground  leaving  the  lane  on 
the  left  hand — where  a  Gospel  was  read  and  a  cross  made, 
then  returning  down  the  lands  of  George  Pitt  to  a  pond  at  the 
Corner  of  the  Ragg  meade  .  .  .  making  a  short  turn  on  the 
left  hand  down  the  Ragg  meade — till  we  came  to  the  Corner 
of  the  Great  Ragg  where  a  Gospel  was  read  and  a  cross  made, 
proceeding  in  a  direct  line  till  we  came  to  a  corner  against 
the  Great  Purlieu,  where  a  Gospel  was  read  and  a  cross  made — 
so  all  through  the  lands  of  George  Pitt  (formerly  enclosed  out 
of  the  Common  of  Purton  Stoake)  till  we  came  to  a  small  stream 
called  Stoake  brook,  we  crossed  the  stream  into  a  Ground 
called  Monks  and  through  another  ground  into  Littleworth 
Lane.  .  .  .  Midway  in  the  said  lane  a  Gospel  was  read  and 
a  Cross  made  near  the  Shore  of  the  ditch  on  the  right  hand  and 
also  on  an  Ashen  tree  over  against  the  same,  and  to  every  person 
there  present  was  given  Cakes  and  Ale. 

"  From  thence  we  went  .  .  into  a  ground  called  Littleworth 
then  into  a  ground  called  East  Mead,  and  also  through  Hay 
laines  and  Great  Hayes,  and  Hayes  lane — where  a  Gospel  was 
read  and  a  Cross  cut  on  an  Oak  on  the  right  hand  side  thereof — 
then  through  Little  Hays,  and  the  Hayes,  and  Marsh  furlong 
— and  Ten  acres  and  Gossy  Mead  x  and  the  Langett,  where  a 
Gospel  was  read  and  a  Cross  made  at  the  north  east  corner  of 
the  said  Langett  last  mentioned — from  thence  to  a  mead  called 
the  Ham  and  another  called  the  Ham,  and  long  acres,  and  a 

1  Gossy  Head.     "  Goss  "  is  Wiltshire  for  Restharrow. 
129 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

small  Ham,  and  the  Lower  ground,  and  Gamons  (and  two  more) 
Gamons  and  through  two  meads  up  to  the  River  side  called 
the  Rea,  and  by  the  River  side  to  the  bridge  called  Woodwards 
bridge  .  .  .  where  between  the  two  bridges  a  Gospel  was  read 
and  a  Cross  made.  Then  we  came  into  North  mead,  and 
Long  Hams,  and  Common  Brook  mead,  and  Smalways  End 
and  Wroughton  mead  .  .  and  to  Common  mead  called  Brook 
mead  where  the  river  divides  almost  at  the  upper  end  of  the 
said  Common  mead.  Then  leaving  both  rivers  on  the  left  hand, 
we  came  to  a  Mill  heretofore  called  Elvers  Mill *  now  Orchard 
Mill,  where  in  the  Hall  there  at  the  upper  end  of  the  Table  a 
Gospel  was  read  and  a  Penny  was  then  paid  by  Orchard  the 
Miller  (being  an  Ancient  Custom)  to  the  Minister  of  Purton. 
Then  we  crossed  the  said  River  to  the  Mill  Taile  and  went 
through  two  little  meads  belonging  to  the  said  Mill,  then  into 
a  mead  the  lands  of  the  Revd.  Mr.  Coker  up  the  middle  part 
thereof  to  Elvers  bridge  leaving  a  watercourse  heretofore  a 
River  according  to  ancient  Tradition  and  the  best  information 
that  can  be  had,  on  the  left  hand  we  came  on  the  said  bridge 
called  Elvers  bridge  where  on  the  East  side  of  the  Bridge 
belonging  to  the  Parish  of  Purton  a  Gospel  was  read  and  a 
Cross  cut  on  the  Post  there. 

"  Then  we  came  to  Elversbridge  Mead  and  the  Moor  ;  then 
we  crossed  a  little  Brook  or  Rivulet  into  a  mead  called  Brimhill, 
about  thirty  perches  up  to  a  Meer  stone  there,  where  a  Gospel 
was  read  and  a  Cross  made.  Then  in  a  direct  line  from  the  Meer 
stone  to  a  Stone  bridge  and  went  over  the  same  into  a  little 
mead  to  the  south  east  corner  thereof — then  turning  up  the 
strait  West  hedge,  to  the  back  side  belonging  to  a  Farm  called 
Spressels,  where  every  person  there  present  eat  cakes  and  drank 
ale  ...  from  thence  up  the  said  Backside  to  a  pasture 
ground  part  of  the  said  farm  leaving  the  Barns,  Stables  and 
outbuilding  in  the  Parish  of  Liddiard  Millicent  on  the  left  hand, 
and  so  up  the  said  ground  in  a  direct  line — (through  two  more 
grounds)  to  a  ground  of  the  Revd.  Mr.  Richard  Glasse,  Vicar 
of  Purton — then  into  the  highway  leading  to  Swindon  where 
a  Gospel  was  read  and  a  cross  made.  Then  crossing  the  high- 

1  Elvers  Mill  was  the  oldest  mill  in  Purton,  older  than  the  mill  built 
by  Abbot  William  of  Coleherne. — Wilts  Notes  and  Queries. 

I30 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

way  into  a  ground  Land  of  Mr.  R.  Tuckey,  then  into  Longs  the 
Estate  of  the  late  Mr.  A.  Goddard, 1  to  the  west  Corner  thereof 
where  a  Gospel  was  read  and  a  cross  made  ;  then  thro'  a 
ground  called  Free  close — and  the  Moor  and  Heycroft  we  came 
through  the  hedge  to  the  waters  in  Jobbers  lane  where  the 
Perambulation  was  completed  and  so  there  ended." 

1  Then  part  of  Purton  House  Estate. 


CHAPTER   XVII 

THE  WORD  ALE — GOSPEL  OAK 

IN  Mrs.  Story-Maskelyne's  chapter  on  Braden  Forest  some 
names  of  places  occur  to  which  belong  facts  of  interest  to 
Purton  folk,  although  not  actually  within  the  parish.  On  the 
left  of  the  road  from  Purton  to  Wootton  Bassett  is  a  farm 
called  Midgehall,  and  a  most  interesting  observance  takes  place 
annually  called  the  Word  Ale  (Anglo-Saxon,  "land"  ale)  in 
this  house,  in  turn  with  two  others  (Spittlebo rough  and 
Wickfield),  on  the  first  Sunday  in  October. 

It  appears  that  certain  lands  at  Midgehall  were  given  to 
the  now  vanished  Cistercian  Abbey  of  Stanley,  near  Calne. 
Some  say  Pope  Innocent  III.  made  a  decree  exempting  all 
Cistercian  monasteries  and  their  property  from  tithe  obligations, 
and  that  in  consequence  of  this  the  tenants  of  these  places 
refused  to  pay  tithe  to  the  Rector  after  the  Reformation,  and 
a  compromise  was  at  length  agreed  on  between  them  and  the 
Rector  of  Lydiard  Tregoze,  under  which  the  Convent  "  of  their 
common  consent  and  will,  having  a  holy  respect  unto  charity," 
agreed  to  pay  annually  the  sum  of  8s.,  that  being  then  (1228) 
the  estimated  value  of  three  oxen. 1 

At  the  ceremony,  which  is  yearly  held  in  one  of  the  three 
houses,  and  is  called  "  the  Feast  of  Word  Ale,"  those  present 
are  bid  to  "  pray  for  the  Abbot  of  Stanley  and  all  the  monks  of 
the  Cistercian  order,  by  whom  we  are  all  tithe  free,  tithe  free,  tithe 
free"  Bread,  ale  and  cheese  composes  the  " feast,**  and  it  is 
supposed  that  were  this  part  of  the  observance  omitted  the 
full  tithe  could  be  claimed  from  the  present  owners. 

Sad  to  say,  the  records  connected  with  the  Word  Ale  have 
gone  astray.  One  Adam  Tuck,  who  had  been  steward  of  the 
Wootton  Bassett  estate  and  Town  Clerk,  left  in  disgrace  about 

1  Mr.  Lee  Osborn's  paper  on  the  Lvdiards 
132 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

1782,  and  as  he  took  with  him  the  Wootton  Bassett  Charter, 
which  later  was  found  amongst  papers  of  his  descendants  at 
Denbigh,  he  probably  also  took  away  the  Word  Ale  documents. 
Before  the  days  of  records  being  kept  it  was  the  custom  to 
cut  a  notch  annually  on  a  white  rod,  to  show  that  the  ceremony 
had  duly  taken  place,  and  "  the  hazel  rod  "  has  over  two  hundred 
notches  cut  into  it,  and  people  say  there  were  several  rods  before 
this  one  which  were  lost.  We  have  said  that  the  feast  is 
composed  of  biead,  cheese  and  ale,  all  very  good,  no  doubt,  btit 
the  toast  must  be  rather  a  trial  to  drink,  as  it  is  to  be  composed 
of  a  mixture  of  "  cheese,  beer  and  onions,  with  various 
spices." 

One  authority  speaks  of  a  "  loaf  of  white  bread  into  which 
a  small  White  Wand,  three  feet  long,  must  be  stuck  in  a 
perpendicular  position,  also  a  thin  Cheese,  and  a  small  barrel 
of  beer.  .  .  ."  and  of  proceeding  "  to  an  upper  chamber,  where 
a  Bible  is  placed  on  a  table,"  and  after  business  is  finished 
"  all  will  kneel  down  and  repeat  the  Lord's  Prayer  before 
adjoining  below  for  the  Feast.  The  White  Wand  is  then  given 
to  him  whose  next  turn  it  is  to  hold  the  Court."1 

Gospel  Oak  is  the  next  name  on  the  old  map  to  claim 
our  attentive  interest.  This  is  a  farm  about  three  miles  from 
Purton,  once  in  the  Forest  of  Braden,  and  it  has  certainly  borne 
this  name  for  many  centuries.  Till  1865  a  time-worn  oak  stood 
there,  and  tradition  has  it  that  under  this  tree  "the  early 
Christians  used  to  meet."  *  It  is  hardly  credible  that  hands 
should  have  been  laid  upon  it  to  cut  it  down,  but  such,  alas ! 
was  the  case,  for  unhappily  some  are  born  entirely  lacking  in 
veneration  and  reverence  to  each  generation.  However,  some 
remnants  of  the  tree  were  saved,  and  a  large  piece  may  now  be 
seen  carefully  lodged  in  the  chancel  of  St.  Sampson's  Church 
at  Cricklade,  while  a  smaller  piece  is  kept  in  the  house  to  which 
it  gives  its  name,  the  property  of  Mr.  Godfrey-Jull,  now  enlarged 
and  adapted  as  a  Colonial  Training  College.  But,  alas  ! 
irrefutable  evidence  goes  to  prove  that  it  is  impossible  that 
under  the  shadow  of  this  particular  tree  St.  Augustine  met  the 
British  bishops  A.D.  603. 

1  Wills  Notes  and  Queries,  No.  67,  p.  333. 

1  "  The  original  Gospel  Oak  had  disappeared  before  1733." — Wilts 
Arch.  Mag. 

133 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

There  is  no  doubt  that  before  the  coming  of  St.  Augustine 
Christianity  had  been  fully  established  in  Britain,  but  persecu- 
tion drove  the  Christians  westward,  and  their  bishops  found 
refuge  in  the  wild  fastnesses  of  Wales.  At  the  close  of  the  sixth 
century  Gregory  the  Pope  decided  a  mission  must  be  sent  to 
convert  the  pagan  Saxons,  and  so  in  596  Augustine  set  forth, 
at  once  to  return  dismayed  at  the  terrors  of  his  journey  and 
mission.  Gregory,  however,  would  take  no  denial,  and  he  at 
length,  with  forty  companion  monks,  landed  at  Pegwell  Bay, 
near  Ramsgate.  Ethelbert  was  King  of  Kent.  He  promised  a 
hearing,  and  with  Queen  Bertha  and  her  Christian  chaplain, 
Bishop  Lindhard,  he  received  the  new-comers  somewhere  in 
the  Isle  of  Thanet. 

A  picturesque  procession  soon  arrived.  First  a  silver  cross 
and  a  painted  figure  of  our  Saviour  borne  aloft,  then  the  monks 
and  saint  followed,  and  solemnly  chanting  a  litany,  approached 
the  royal  pair. 

Ethelbert  listened  attentively,  and  gave  them  permission  to 
work  and  teach,  and  on  Whit-Sunday,  June  2nd,  A.D.  597,  he 
was  baptised  a  Christian.  The  Missionary  College  close  to 
Canterbury,  which  may  be  seen  to-day,  was  established  by 
Augustine  as  his  abbey  in  those  early  days. 

Augustine  soon  became  a  bishop,  returned  to  Aries  for  his 
consecration,  and  was  given  by  Gregory  "  the  care  of  all  the 
Churches,"  and  made  head  of  the  bishops. 

Differences  of  opinion  naturally  arose  on  various  subjects 
as  time  went  on,  and  many  letters  were  sent  to  Gregory  asking 
for  help  and  advice.  At  length  Augustine  decided  on  a 
conference,  and  invited  the  bishops  to  meet  him  and  each  other 
to  discuss  their  difficulties. 

Bishop  Forrest  Browne  was  the  first  to  unhesitatingly  decide 
that  Gospel  Oak  was  this  historically  interesting  spot, 1  which 
the  Venerable  Bede  writes  of  as  "  a  place  which  is  to  this  day 
called  Saint  Augustine's  Oak  ...  on  the  borders  of  the 
Wiceii  and  the  West  Saxons."  This  point  would  be  just 
half-way  between  St.  Asaph  and  Canterbury,  so  equally 
convenient  to  both  parties  and  so  specially  suitable  for  such  an 
important  event.  The  fixing  of  the  date  for  Easter  was  one  of 

1  This  is  not  accepted  by  other  authorities. 
134 


THE    STORY    OF    PURTON 

the  urgent  problems  requiring  solution,  amongst  many  others, 
and  it  would  seem  that  each  party  was  so  convinced  of  its  own 
view  being  the  correct  one,  that  agreement  seemed  well-nigh 
hopeless.  Bede  tells  us  that  the  Welsh  bishops  "  did  not  comply 
with  the  entreaties,  exhortations,  and  rebukes  of  Augustine," 
so  the  saint  was  at  last  driven  to  suggest  that  a  test  of  miracle 
should  be  applied  to  settle  the  vexed  question  of  authority. 
A  blind  man  was  therefore  produced,  and  the  test  was  the 
restoration  by  prayer  of  his  eyesight.  The  Welsh  were  given 
the  first  chance,  but  their  prayers  proved  unavailing.  Augustine 
then  began  to  pray,  and  the  blind  man  immediately  received 
his  sight,  proving  St.  Augustine's  supernatural  power.  Still 
unconvinced,  the  Welsh  declined  to  change  their  ancient 
customs,  and  begged  for  a  second  meeting  with  more  of  their 
colleagues  present. 

Some  time  after  this  seven  bishops  and  many  learned  men 
arrived,  having  visited  a  saintly  hermit  to  ask  his  views.  He 
shrewdly  told  them  that  "  if  Augustine  was  a  man  of  God,  to 
follow  him,"  and  when  they  inquired  how  they  might  be  assured 
of  that,  he  replied  that  our  Lord  had  enjoined  lowliness  and 
meekness  ;  if  Augustine  exhibited  those  qualities  they  might 
accept  his  teaching,  but  if  he  were  stern  and  haughty  he  was 
not  of  God.  Again  they  asked,  "  And  how  shall  we  discern 
even  this  ? "  The  wise  anchorite  had  probably  formed  his 
estimate  of  Augustine  from  the  reports  of  his  "  exhortations  and 
rebukes,"  and  advised  them  to  arrange  that  he  should  arrive 
first  at  the  place  of  meeting  ;  if,  when  they  appeared,  he  rose 
to  greet  them,  well ;  if,  though  they  were  more  in  number, 
he  did  not,  they  were  to  "  despise  "  him. 

"  So  it  turned  out,  Augustine  remained  seated.  He  offered 
that  if  they  would  follow  the  Roman  custom  in  the  administra- 
tion of  baptism,  would  accept  the  Roman  time  for  keeping 
Easter,  and  would  co-operate  with  him  in  his  missionary  work, 
he  would  waive  all  the  other  matters.  But  they  would  do  none 
of  these  things,  nor  receive  him  as  their  archbishop,  considering 
that  if  he  treated  them  with  haughtiness  while  they  were 
negotiating,  it  was  not  likely  that  he  would  be  more  amiable 
afterwards.  Augustine  seems  to  have  justified  their  opinion 
by  losing  his  temper,  and  prophesying  subsequent  disasters  to 
them,  which  in  the  then  state  of  the  country  were  only  too 

135 


THE   STORY    OF    PURTON 

probable,  and  unfortunately  duly  befel,  and  so  the  meeting 
broke  up."1 

On  the  Ordnance  Map  at  Down  Ampney  "  The  Oak "  is 
marked,  and  it  is  highly  probable  that  there  the  first  meeting 
took  place,  and  the  second  at  Gospel  Oak.  At  the  former 
place  there  is  still  a  well,  said  to  be  valuable  in  the  healing  of 
eyes,  like  the  Holywell  in  North  Wales,  where  to  this  day 
many  hundreds  of  sufferers  may  be  seen  during  the  summer 
months  diligently  bathing  their  eyes  in  the  potent  waters. 

Having  ventured  so  far  in  the  direction  of  Crickdale,  which 
town  is  well  worthy  of  a  competent  pen  to  tell  its  interesting 
story,  the  writer  would  like  to  draw  attention  to  the  curious 
fact  that  carved  on  the  stone  walls  inside  St.  Sampson's  Church 
are  four  playing  cards — the  heart,  the  diamond,  the  spade  and 
the  club.  A  year  ago  the  following  explanation  came  into  her 
hands,  given  by  a  lady2  of  eighty  summers,  who  had  had  it 
from  an  aunt  in  days  gone  by,  which  goes  to  prove  that  there 
is  more  meaning  in  a  pack  of  cards  than  is  generally  supposed, 
and  that  the  popular  idea  that  they  were  invented  to  amuse 
a  mad  king  of  France  may  not  be  the  correct  one  : — 

"  We  begin  with  the  diamonds  : 

"  A  Diamond  represents  a  figure  in  Eastern  philosophy 
typifying  the  Supreme  Power.  It  contains  the  shape  of  a  cross. 
The  King's  weapons  are  in  the  background,  the  face  turned  to 
the  right  (see  Ezekiel  i.  12).  The  hands  raised  in  blessing. 

"  Hearts : 

"  Faces  turned  the  same  way,  weapons  in  the  background 
but  wielded — supposed  to  represent  angels  or  executive  power. 

"  Spades : 

"  Faces  turned  to  left,  therefore  represent  devils,  a  Spade  is 
a  Heart  turned  upside  down,  with  a  handle.  The  Queen  holds 
a  Sceptre,  the  only  one  that  does  so,  probably  representing  an 
evil  sway,  instead  of  the  lawful  one  of  the  others,  who  hold 
flowers.  The  King  wields  his  weapons. 

1  From  The  Gospel  Oak,  by  J.  Lee  Osborn. 

*  Mrs.  Godley,  mother  of  Lieut. -General  Sir  Alexander  Godley, 
K.C.M.G..  etc. 

I36 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

"  Clubs : 

0  Faces  turned  both  right  and  left,  representing  mankind. 
The  Club  is  the  Cubic  measure  of  the  Heart,  and  has  a  handle 
like  the  Spades.  It  also  represents  a  trefoil  emblem  of  the 
Trinity. 

"  The  King  holds  a  Cross  on  a  Globe,  emblem  of  the  Church 
in  the  World.  All  suggests  mankind  fallen,  but  to  be  raised 
by  the  Incarnation.  All  suits  represent  family  life." 


137 


CHAPTER    XVIII 

"  THE  ANGEL  " — REMOUNT   DEPOT — WAR   WORK — DEATH   OF 
REV.  JOHN  VEYSEY — INDUCTION  OF  REV.  R.  B.  HARRISON 

THE  Angel  Hotel  is  a  picturesque  old  building,  and  has  seen 
many  generations  come  and  go  since  Henry  Gleed  was  innkeeper 
there.  Many  a  glass  of  ale  has  been  drunk  since  then,  more 
than  was  good  for  the  men  of  Purton,  no  doubt,  when  the  boast 
ot  6,000  gallons  being  drunk  was  made  in  one  fair-time. 

The  Magistrates  used  to  sit  there,  and  in  Mr.  Sadler's  father's 
time  they  met  once  a  month,  Lord  Radnor  driving  over  from 
Coleshill  to  occupy  the  chair.  For  twenty-two  years  Mr. 
Wilding  has  been  the  genial  host,  and  in  the  piping  times  of 
peace  many  hunting  men  found  comfortable  quarters  at 
"  The  Angel."  There  is  a  large  ballroom,  in  which  entertainments 
were  held. 

In  an  old  building  in  the  yard  adjoining  the  Play  Close 
may  still  be  seen  the  coppers  once  used  for  brewing  the  ale, 
and  part  of  the  old  boundary  wall  also  remains. 

A  game  introduced,  tradition  says,  by  the  charcoal  burners 
(who  came  and  settled  in  Pavenhill  from  the  Forest  of  Dean) 
was  "  kick-shins."  It  was  a  simple  game  requiring  no 
accessories,  and,  as  the  name  suggests,  was  just  to  see  who  would 
stand  longest  in  a  "  kick-shins  "  contest.  Happily  it  has  followed 
the  more  knightly  back-swording  or  single-stick  into  oblivion. 
William  Hedges,  John  Baker,  William  Slade,  and  James  Daniels 
were  names  to  conjure  with  in  the  days  of  the  back-swording, 
and  their  descendants  could  no  doubt  give  good  account  of 
themselves  to-day  in  games  of  skill  and  courage. 

Purton  boasts  of  Mr.  James  Kibblewhite,  the  famous 
champion  runner,  as  one  of  her  sons,  and  an  account  of  his 
successes  is  worthy  of  record  in  our  story  of  his  native  village. 

He  was  born  at  Purton  on  the  6th  February,  1866,  started 
his  athletic  career  in  1884,  and  ran  with  phenomenal  success 
for  ten  seasons.  He  was  selected  in  1890  to  run  in  London 
before  King  Edward  and  Queen  Alexandra,  then  Prince  and 

138 


THE   STORY    OF   PURTON 

Princess  of  Wales,  and  during  this  period  of  ten  years  he  won 
prizes  of  no  less  than  £1,200  in  value. 

The  following  are  amongst  his  successes  : — 

1886.  Won  Twenty-five  Guineas  Cup  at  Stourbridge. 

1887.  Won  Twenty-five  Guineas  Cup  at  Stourbridge. 

1888.  Won  Twenty  Guineas  Cup  at  Cheltenham. 

1888.  Won  Half  Mile  Championship  of  Wilts. 

1889.  Won  Half  Mile  Championship  of  Wilts. 
1889.  Won  One  Mile  Championship  of  England. 
1889.  Won  Twenty  Guineas  Cup  at  Cheltenham. 

1889.     Broke  Three  Mile  English  Record  and  World  Record  in 
London. 

1889.  Broke  Three  Mile   Grass  Record  at   Kennington  Oval, 

London. 

1890.  Won  One  Mile  Championship  of  England.  . 
1890.     Won  Four  Mile  Championship  of  England. 
1890.     Won  Ten  Mile  Championship  of  England. 

1890.     Won     Ten     Mile     Southern     Counties     Cross-country 

Championship. 

1890.  Won  Two  Mile  Northern  Championship. 
1890.  Won  Half  Mile  Championship  of  Wilts. 
1890.  Won  Fifty  Guineas  Cup  at  Manchester. 
1890.  Won  the  One  Mile  and  Four  Mile  Championships,  both 

on  the  same  day  ;    also  One  Mile  Scratch  Race  in 

London,  and  One  Mile  Handicap  with  150  competitors 

from  scratch  the  same  day. 

1890.  Won  One  Mile  Championship  of  England. 

1891.  Won     Ten     Mile     Southern     Counties     Cross-country 

Championship. 

1891.     Won  National  Cross-country  Championship. 
1891.     Won  Half  Mile  Northern  Championship. 

1891.  Won  Fifty  Guineas  Cup  at  Manchester. 

1892.  Won  Four  Mile  Championship  of  England. 
1892.     Won  Twenty  Guineas  Cup  at  Fro  me. 

1892.  Broke  Four  Mile  Scotch  Record  at  Glasgow. 

1893.  Won  Twenty  Guineas  Cup  at  Fro  me. 

He  is  now  employed  by  the  Great  Western  Works  at  Swindon, 
and  has  a  son  who,  also  a  promising  athlete,  has  fought  for 
his  King  and  country. 

139 


THE   STORY    OF    PURTON 

For  twenty-five  years  Mr.  Drew  has  been  Purton's  respected 
Schoolmaster,  and  Mrs.  Woodward  teaches  and  fondly  cares 
for  the  infants. 

The  members  of  the  Parish  Council  are  as  follows  : — 

Chairman,  Mr.  Josiah  Haskins. 

Vice-Chairman,  Mr.  John  Greenham. 

Clerk,  Mr.  Wheeler. 

Messrs.  E.  L.  Gardner,  John  Glass,  Charles  lies,  Joseph 
Staley,  F.  Sutton,  E.  Titherley,  W.  Gough,  A.  Baker,  B.  Eatwell, 
John  Greenaway,  F.  Adams,  and  Captain  Richardson. 

Purton  is  represented  on  the  Board  of  Guardians  by  Messrs, 
lies  and  Gardner  and  Mrs.  Richardson. 

Churchwardens,  Captain  Richardson  and  Mr.  F.  Kempster. 

The  Sidesmen  are,  Mr.  H.  Dash,  Mr.  J.  Greenham,  Mr.  J. 
Glass,  Mr.  A.  H.  Barnes,  Mr.  Heath,  Mr.  J.  Kibblewhite,  Mr.  W. 
Barnes,  Mr.  W.  Hewer,  Mr.  R.  G.  Brown,  Mr.  Bull. 

Sexton,  Mr.  Davies. 

Relieving  Officer,  Mr.  R.  J.  Webb. 

Sanitary  Officer,  Mr.  Hiscock. 

Road  Inspector,  Mr.  Godfrey. 

Postmen,  Mr.  Fisher,  Mr.  Daniels,  Mr.  Shurey  and  Mr.  Scott. 

Parish  Nurse,  Miss  Griffen. 

Postmistress,  Mrs.  Bennett. 

Rate  Collector,  Mr.  Wheeler. 

Master  and  Matron  at  the  Workhouse,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Maundrel. 

Useful  members  of  the  Church  choir  are  Mr.  Webber, 
Mr.  Foster,  Mr.  Barnes,  Mr.  O.  Smith,  Mr.  A.  Smith,  and 
Mr.  H.  Smith. 

During  the  Great  War  a  large  Army  Remount  Depot  was 
organised  by  Mr.  W.  H.  Robson  and  his  sons.  It  was  an 
interesting  though  pitiful  sight  to  see  the  horses  being  trained 
in  happy  and  peaceful  methods  for  the  terrors  awaiting  them. 
Special  trains  brought  large  consignments  to  Purton,  and,  tied  in 
sections  of  four,  one  might  see  perhaps  a  hundred  of  them  process 
through  the  village,  led  by  a  band  of  willing  helpers,  to  their 
destination  on  Manor  Hill.  Mrs.  Bickford,  Mrs.  Bucknill, 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Finch,  Mrs.  Chappell,  Miss  Bushby,  and  Miss 
Pethick  gave  their  services  voluntarily  to  help  in  this  work. 
A  number  of  mules  were  also  trained  there,  some  of  which, 

140 


THE    STORY    OF    PURTON 

arriving  quite  intractable,  left  patterns  of  all  that  a  mule 
should  be. 

A  War  Savings  Association  was  well  thought  out  and 
organised,  Mr.  Drew,  Mrs.  Fox,  Miss  Elizabeth  Redman  and 
Miss  M.  Brown  doing  the  chief  part,  assisted  by  a  band  of 
enthusiastic  collectors,  and  a  goodly  sum  weekly  was  rolled  up. 

The  Misses  Kempster  arranged  a  working  party  weekly 
for  the  Red  Cross,  and  a  girls'  meeting  for  the  same  object 
was  held  also,  with  excellent  results. 

A  Woman's  War  Club  was  formed  in  October,  1914,  and 
met  weekly  in  the  winter  months  during  the  war  for  mutual 
help  and  encouragement. 

Miss  Warrender,  joined  by  Miss  Story-Maskelyne,  and  with 
Miss  Walsh's  help,  ran  the  Women's  Agricultural  Committee. 

The  Soldiers'  and  Sailors'  Family  Association  looked  after 
the  needs  of  the  wives  and  parents  of  those  who  had  gone  to 
play  their  part  so  nobly,  and  a  common  anxiety  and,  alas !  in 
many  cases  a  common  loss  and  sorrow,  brought  into  touch 
those  who  otherwise  would  perhaps  have  never  met. 

The  writer  occasionally  took  a  nurse's  place  who  required 
rest  for  some  weeks  in  a  military  hospital,  and  found  it  an 
interesting  experience,  and  her  sister,  Miss  Stronge,  spent 
nearly  a  year  working  at  a  canteen  in  France  under  the  Y.M.C.A. 

In  October,  1916,  a  long  and  well-spent  life  came  to  a  close, 
as  with  much  suffering  bravely  borne  our  beloved  and  respected 
Vicar,  The  Rev.  John  Veysey,  after  thirty-eight  years  of  devoted 
work  and  service  in  the  parish,  was  called  to  his  rest.  He  had 
christened  and  married  most  of  his  parishioners  who  had  come 
to  man's  estate,  and  there  was  many  a  sad  heart  when  it  was 
known  that  never  again  would  his  genial  presence  and  kindly 
smile  be  seen  in  Purton. 

His  family  left  shortly  afterwards  to  reside  in  Swindon, 
Miss  Veysey,  who  was,  in  spite  of  much  illness  and  suffering, 
so  helpful  to  her  father,  having  acted  as  his  secretary  till  his 
death.  Miss  Edith  Veysey  took  an  active  part  in  the  work  of 
the  parish,  and  was  especially  interested  in  the  Church  music  ; 
on  leaving  she  was  presented  by  her  numerous  friends  with  a 
purse  of  gold  and  a  watch  bracelet. 

One  misses,  too,  the  old  lady  who  (though  rheumatic  and 
stiff,  and  in  spite  of  eighty  summers  having  passed  over 

141 


THE    STORY    OF   PURTON 

her  head)  faithfully  each  month  delivered  her  Parish 
Magazines. 

"  The  old  order  changeth,  giving  place  to  new,"  and  on 
February  i4th,  1917,  we  welcomed  Mr.  Veysey's  successor  in 
the  ministry  here,  the  Rev.  Robert  Birch  Harrison,  on  the  roll 
of  Vicars  the  twenty-eighth.  He  was  inducted  by  the 
Archdeacon  of  North  Wilts,  the  Rev.  Ravenscroft  Stewart, 
and  a  large  congregation  attended  the  interesting  and  quaint 
ceremony,  the  two  Churchwardens  leading  the  procession, 
and  many  local  clergy  taking  part  in  it. 

This  brings  "  The  Story  of  Purton  "  to  the  present  day.  Much 
has  been  left  untold,  but  perhaps,  such  as  it  is,  it  may  serve  to 
awaken  at  least  a  deeper  interest  in  our  grand  old  Church, 
which,  built  and  cared  for  by  hands  now  long  dead  and  forgotten, 
is  now  for  the  moment  our  heritage,  "  to  have  and  to  hold  " 
for  those  who  in  due  time  shall  take  our  places. 


142 


APPENDIX 


ROLL   OF   HONOUR,    WITH   DATES 


January. 

August. 

Bert  Fisher         .  .      .  .     ioth,  1918 

Arthur  Bunce     .  .      .  .     ioth,  1915 

John  Selwood     ..      ..      nth,  1917 

Sidney  Smith     .  .      .  .      ioth,  1915 

Herbert  E.  Martin,  R.N.  3ist,  1918 

Albert  Leech      ..      ..     nth,  1918 

Ernest  Kibblewhite          isth,  1915 

February. 

Thomas  R.  Bartlett  .  .     ifth,  1917 

Harry  Lewis       .  .      .  .        ist,  1917 
Frederick  Staley        .  .      i6th,  1919 

Frederick  J.  Mills      .  .     22nd,  1915 
George  A.  Paginton  .  .     25th,  1915 

September. 

March. 

Ernest  H.  Harrison  .  .     i8th,  1918 

Anthony  Brown,  M.C.        4th,  1918 

John  Ranby  Brown  .  .     27th,  1918 

Mervyn  Stronge  Richardson 

igth,  1916 

October. 

Albert  Lewis      .  .      .  .      2ist,  1918 

Percy  Hedges     .  .      .  .       4th,  1917 

Edward  Williams       .  .     25th,  1917 

Herbert  S.  Woolford          4th,  1918 

Frank  Sutton     .  .      .  .     soth,  1917 

Mervyn  T.  Webb       .  .       5th,  1918 

Herbert  Martin  .  .      .  .       8th,  1918 

April. 

Edward  G.  Mills         .  .      ioth,  1918 

Frederick  Walter  Sutton 

Robert  S.  Grimes       .  .      I3th,  1916 

ioth,  1918 

Thomas  Embury       .  .     i7th,  1916 

Albert  Bunce      ..      ..     nth,  1919 

Stanley  F.  Haines     .  .     igth,  1916 

Mervyn  Green    .  .      .  .     i6th,  1918 

Reginald  Jefferies      .  .     23rd,  1914 

William  Eveleigh       .  .     24th,  1918 

May. 

Victor  Lovelock         .  .       8th,  1918 

November. 

Charles  Landor  .  .      .  .     i8th,  1918 

Edward  John  Woolford      ist,  1918 

Joseph  John  Woolford       8th,  1918 

June. 

William  Charles  Parsons  25th,  1918 

Richard  Beassant      .  .       6th,  1918 

Percy  Cook         .  .      .  .     26th,  1918 

Richard  Selwood       .  .       7th,  1917 

Edward  Harry  Hedges     28th,  1916 

Frank  Merchant        .  .     24th,  1918 

Frank  Burgess    .  .      .  .     28th,  1916 

Frederick  Nelson  Daniells 

July. 

3oth,  1917 

Harry  Matthews        .  .       2nd,  1916 

December. 

Edward  Curtis    .  .      .  .       6th,  1916 

Edwin  Saunders         .  .       4th,  1918 

John  Tuck         .  .      .  .       7th,  1916 

William  J.  Haynes    .  .      ioth,  1917 

Percy  Charles  Matthews 

Leonard  Dunsford     .  .      I7th,   1916 

i5th,  1915 

Albert  Parsons  .  .      .  .     27th,  1915 

143 


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